# which drill bits for oak beams?



## SnoSheriff (Aug 17, 2018)

Hi, I have 4"x6" hard oak beams that I will use to make a camping bench. These things are very tough to drill. I only have a hand cordless drill for this job. 
- I used 1/2"x18" auger bit which had hard time drilling through 1 beam. The drill bit got very hot
- I used 3/16" drill bit to make a pilot hole for 1/2" lag bolts. But the lag bolt broke when screwing it in and the drill bit bent as well
- I used 6" nail (no pilot hole). The nail started bending after it went in about 1"
- I used 6" irwin speedbor and it seemed to work but my drill sure got a workout and it drained the battery 

Ideally I'd like to use a threaded rod to connect everything together. So, I need to run a hole through all beams (4x4" wide). However if that's not possible I could connect them by using lag bolts. 

What is the best drill bit for this job? Is it possible to drill through 4x4" beams all at once? Do I need a bigger/stronger drill?


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

Sounds like a good reason to buy a new tool LOL


You could work your way up to the size you want, start at 3/16 go to 5/16, then 3/8 and then 1/2


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## SnoSheriff (Aug 17, 2018)

Catpower said:


> Sounds like a good reason to buy a new tool LOL
> 
> 
> You could work your way up to the size you want, start at 3/16 go to 5/16, then 3/8 and then 1/2


Just last week I picked up 12" sliding double compound and Dewalt 734 planer 

By new tool, do you mean bigger drill? What drill bits would work best on these?


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

I'd want to use a Forstner bit for that, but they're typically not that long. Probably a HSS brad point spur bit can be had long enough to drill through 4". You'll have to go slow, and remove the bit from the hole often to clear chips out. HSS (high speed steel) can get very hot without losing its temper, but if the wood starts to smoke I'd let things cool off.

That oak you got is nasty hard stuff, eh? I had a bubinga spindle on my lathe once and tried to drill a 3/4" hole through it with a regular twist drill, and even at the 500 rpm low speed the drill bit turned purple and smoked. I think bubinga is African for "granite".


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

For a one-time project like this I recommend renting a heavy-duty corded 1/2” drill with an auxiliary handle. 
If you mark you locations precisely, you will be able to align all-thread tod completely through all the pieces and bolt together as you’ve described. Your rental can be for less than a full day and the power of a good drill will make a big difference. 
Since you’ve chosen Oak, I recommend you drill a 9/16” hole for your 1/2” rebar because the Oak won’t give even a little bit.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You do not say what drill that you have. Nor if the bits are new/sharp. My Craftsman 1/2" 20v cordless drill has drilled through many tough situations. I would not hesitate to tackle what you describe. I do not think my Craftsman C3 would have had any problems either. 



Modern cordless drill have a lot of torque. I do not know that a corded drill is necessary.


George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*What 1/2" rebar?*



SnoSheriff said:


> Hi, I have 4"x6" hard oak beams that I will use to make a camping bench. These things are very tough to drill. I only have a hand cordless drill for this job.
> - I used 1/2"x18" auger bit which had hard time drilling through 1 beam. The drill bit got very hot
> - I used 3/16" drill bit to make a pilot hole for* 1/2" lag bolts.* But the lag bolt broke when screwing it in and the drill bit bent as well
> - I used 6" nail (no pilot hole). The nail started bending after it went in about 1"
> ...





Toolman50 said:


> For a one-time project like this I recommend renting a heavy-duty corded 1/2” drill with an auxiliary handle.
> If you mark you locations precisely, you will be able to align all-thread tod completely through all the pieces and bolt together as you’ve described. Your rental can be for less than a full day and the power of a good drill will make a big difference.
> Since you’ve chosen Oak, I recommend you drill a 9/16” hole for your* 1/2” rebar *because the Oak won’t give even a little bit.


A twist drills size would be a 7/16" for 1/2" lag bolts. A battery powered drill will not do this in the depths and hardness you specify. I use a 1/2" variable speed corded drill to pre-drill 6" X 8" landscape timbers for 12" long nails, and I use long a 3/8" twist drill. I have to pull it out to remove the chips every so often. I've drill hundreds of holes this way.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Toolman50 said:


> For a one-time project like this I recommend renting a heavy-duty corded 1/2” drill with an auxiliary handle.
> If you mark you locations precisely, you will be able to align all-thread tod completely through all the pieces and bolt together as you’ve described. Your rental can be for less than a full day and the power of a good drill will make a big difference.
> Since you’ve chosen Oak, I recommend you drill a 9/16” hole for your 1/2” rebar because the Oak won’t give even a little bit.


My mistake above in calling it rebar, I meant all-thread. The all thread could be used to tie all the pieces together and bolted tightly. This is an alternative to using Lag screws. The nuts can be recessed into the legs for a smooth outside. :wink:


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## SnoSheriff (Aug 17, 2018)

I ended up using FastenMaster 10" Timberlok screws with 18v impact drill. This bench is very heavy.


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

I sometimes keep a mug of cold water handy to frequently cool a drill.
johnep


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## Arthur Blowfish (Aug 19, 2018)

*Use old tech*

You could just use a brace and bit.  There are plenty about. An Irwin or Jennings pattern auger will make short work of the oak. If you don’t know much about old technology you should read about how to sharpen the bit. No battery, so always ready to work at full power. 

I have to ask though - why the massive over engineering using 4x6 oak? Not really a good choice for a seat which needs moving, and metal fasteners will be degraded by the natural tannic acid in oak. Nice job at the end though.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Good job. I thought a cordless would do the job.


George


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## Brian72 (Jun 10, 2018)

Get a Wood Owl bit. I bought mine from Timberwolf tools. I built our pergola with 6x6 Walnut and Ash. This bit chewed through better than any bit I've ever used and no tearout on the exit hole.









Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Drilling VS an impact driver*



SnoSheriff said:


> I ended up using FastenMaster 10" Timberlok screws with *18v impact drill*. This bench is very heavy.





GeorgeC said:


> Good job. I thought a cordless would do the job.
> 
> 
> George


A cordless drill would quit/run out of battery, fairly soon drilling 7/16" holes in Oak for 1/2" lag bolts. That's why we all recommended a "corded" drill motor. I wouldn't dream of using my 18V cordless drill for 3/8" pilot holes for the 12" nails I use on 6" X 8" timbers. 

An impact driver is a whole different animal. A cordless one used on much smaller diameter screws obviously worked just fine. It's another "apples and oranges" comparison, completely different application and power requirements. :vs_cool:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Most 1/2" corded drills have handles designed to absorb the torque when using a large drill bit, it is your wrist that is absorbing it with most cordless drills, gets tiresome pretty fast even if the drill has enough power to drill the hole.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> A cordless drill would quit/run out of battery, fairly soon drilling 7/16" holes in Oak for 1/2" lag bolts. That's why we all recommended a "corded" drill motor. I wouldn't dream of using my 18V cordless drill for 3/8" pilot holes for the 12" nails I use on 6" X 8" timbers.
> 
> An impact driver is a whole different animal. A cordless one used on much smaller diameter screws obviously worked just fine. It's another "apples and oranges" comparison, completely different application and power requirements. :vs_cool:



An impact driver is just another form of cordless drill.


You need to go down to a commercial sales outlet and see the equipment they are selling to large contractors these days. The store that I was in a couple of days ago told me that the Milwaukee battery powered were the most popular for the companies to buy for their employees. While I was standing there there was a discussion about a company putting on more employees and coming back to negotiate.


There was a batter powered chain saw in front of me and I picked it up. It was heavier than my gas powered, WITHOUT the battery. The clerk said that was their most popular chain saw.


Battery power has come a long way. But it is not light weight.


George


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## SnoSheriff (Aug 17, 2018)

Arthur Blowfish said:


> I have to ask though - why the massive over engineering using 4x6 oak? Not really a good choice for a seat which needs moving, and metal fasteners will be degraded by the natural tannic acid in oak. Nice job at the end though.


These oak beams cost me fraction of what I'd pay for 2x4 spruce. I have a bunch of these oaks so I decided to build something from them. Looking for project ideas . I won't be moving this bench much. It will either place it on my deck or by the firepit. 



Brian72 said:


> Get a Wood Owl bit. I bought mine from Timberwolf tools. I built our pergola with 6x6 Walnut and Ash. This bit chewed through better than any bit I've ever used and no tearout on the exit hole.


I've seen those Wood Owl bits on their website and wondered if they'd do the job.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

johnep1934 said:


> I sometimes keep a mug of cold water handy to frequently cool a drill.
> johnep


Almost the same thing, I stop and drink a beer to allow the drill to cool down. :vs_laugh:


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## Brian72 (Jun 10, 2018)

SnoSheriff said:


> These oak beams cost me fraction of what I'd pay for 2x4 spruce. I have a bunch of these oaks so I decided to build something from them. Looking for project ideas . I won't be moving this bench much. It will either place it on my deck or by the firepit.
> 
> 
> I've seen those Wood Owl bits on their website and wondered if they'd do the job.


I was amazed how well they worked. I had Irwin paddle bits and Speedbores and they just jammed up(actually burnt up my 1/2 inch DeWalt.) The Wood Owls chewed through like nothing and made a much cleaner hole. Worth every penny!

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*impact drivers VS drills*



GeorgeC said:


> An impact driver is just another form of cordless drill.
> George



You have no idea what you are talking about. They are completely different internally at the driven end. 
https://youtu.be/PplmamhRCv4?t=329

By the way, I own a whole set of Milwaukee drills and impact drivers, about 3 of each in 1/4" hex drive and 3/8" and 1/2" square drive for mechanical and automotive work. Don't tell me how they work, I know. They do not use drills to drive nuts on threaded fasteners, like your truck's lug nuts. They use an impact driver. They are completely different. 

Here's my biggest Milwaukee 1/2" impact driver:
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2763-22-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00GFUA7FC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1534731409&sr=8-4&keywords=Milwaukee+1%2F2%22+impact+driver










With 700 ft lbs of torque, it will break your wrist if you aren't careful.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

A couple years ago CPO had a good deal on a Porter Cable 20V combo kit, they were refurbished, for either $65 per set or$85 I can't remember but I g`ot it. When I first looked at the impact driver I was thinking what good it it, then I started working with it and damn I love that thing, whit a little practice you can drive #2-4 screws with out stripping, just be easy on it and let go of the trigger


Much quicker and easier then a drill in my opinion. Hell it will even loosen the lugs on my pickup, but it will also twist off the 1/4 hex fitting real fast if you hammer too long


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## SnoSheriff (Aug 17, 2018)

I'm going to order the Wood Owl 18" auger bits. I'd like to use them to install 1/2" and 3/4" wooden dowel or threaded rod. Do I order 1/2" and 3/4" drill bits or do I need to buy bits one size larger than the dowel/rod (9/16 & 13/16)?


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## Brian72 (Jun 10, 2018)

SnoSheriff said:


> I'm going to order the Wood Owl 18" auger bits. I'd like to use them to install 1/2" and 3/4" wooden dowel or threaded rod. Do I order 1/2" and 3/4" drill bits or do I need to buy bits one size larger than the dowel/rod (9/16 & 13/16)?


I'd order the exact size. Going bigger wouldn't hurt with threaded rod but it would screw you with dowel rods. If it's too tight, you could always sand the dowels down to fit. When I built my pergola, I bought a 3/4 bit and 3/4 pegs (which the company advertises they turn them 1/64 over) and it went together great.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk


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## Arthur Blowfish (Aug 19, 2018)

AH - thought so. 

If you have resaw facilities, then of course you could convert 4x6 into something more appropriate for furniture - a refectory table and benches, say.
If you're staying with outdoor structures = green wood framing and suchlike, then I'd sugest you stay with trenails for fasteners - they will last as long as the timber. whereas ferrous products will not. If necessary, you can always wedge them for a clean finish. 

My problem would be what to use such great timbers for!

A


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