# Corner drawers/ pics



## fire65 (Apr 27, 2013)

One of the hardest projects I have worked on. I laid it all out, YEAH I measured, remeasured, etc. I built the cabinet, then the drawers and trust me I spent time on this. LOL, then when I put the drawers in, ONE fit. The fronts were from 1/8th to 3/16 from top to bottom. 
So when I closed the drawer the right side hit and the left had a gap.I have looked and thought and walked around this for a few days AND I tore the back off, sawed the drawers down to 20 inches and basically rebuilt the thing, but it worked
Any input is appreciated.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

You got some serious Jedi skills going on with your cabinetmaking...

:thumbsup:



The way that is designed and with the guides that you used - It would HAVE to be perfect for everything to line up correctly.


Even IF you had used the undermount / concealed KV slides you would not have gained much of anything in the way of 'adjustment'... All you would have got with them was a slight bit of up and down adjustment on each side of the box (adjustment via the locking lugs 'adjuster' thingie) but you still would have had to resort to some sort of shims for any side to side adjustment and even then you would have been limited to a sixteenth or less depending on how the box was built (how much room you had to 'play' with). 


Your cabinet looks awsome. I have no doubt that it took some serious time and skill to build... :yes:


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## ecr (Jan 4, 2011)

fire65 you should switch to blum undermounts. I use the 563 series with there locking devices with side to side adjustment and up and down adjustments. they are really easy to adjust. I have used them on corner drawers like yours above and they work great. If you have any questions about them let me know. cabs look good btw.


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## fire65 (Apr 27, 2013)

ecr said:


> fire65 you should switch to blum undermounts. I use the 563 series with there locking devices with side to side adjustment and up and down adjustments. they are really easy to adjust. I have used them on corner drawers like yours above and they work great. If you have any questions about them let me know. cabs look good btw.


 I will give them a try, always looking for easier, faster and better. Thanks


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Now that is certainly ingenious. How did you happen to think of that approach?

I have used the traditional lazy susan approach.

George


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

fire65 said:


> I will give them a try, always looking for easier, faster and better. Thanks


 
You will not have very much adjustment... :no:

Think of the adjustment there more as 'fine tuning'...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

fire65 said:


> Any input is appreciated.


That type of drawer setup can be done with minimum aggravation. It starts off with how you lay out your cabinet. I usually use a sheet of any substrate (MDF, particle board, or plywood) to draw out the cabinet in plan view full size. I draw in everything, at the sizes they are. Doing that allows you to plan the joinery, and deal with spacing and fit.

In that case it would be the whole corner. It would show any verticals, the face frame, and the countertop front edge. With that, you can draw the drawer box, and the front (including the drawer front faces).

If you draw in the cabinet member that the cabinet side drawer slide attaches to, that should be parallel to the other side. Or, If you have a movable wing, or just return strips to mount the slides to, they could be adjustable at the rear. I would recommend using the slides you have in the picture (looks like 100lb full extension, side mounts).

By drawing out the cabinet on a sheet, once you build it, it should fit the drawing perfectly when placed on it. Also, keep in mind that a cabinet will rack when it's in the stage in your photo. A slight bit of rack can make a perfect fit appear out of square.



















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