# Lacquer over latex paint



## djonesax

I have some walnut speaker stands that I needed to make darker but I just can’t bring my self to stain or paint walnut. The natural lacquered wood is just too pretty to massacre. I am going to build a new set out of poplar and possibly paint them black. Here is my question. The guy at HD once suggested to me to stain something black by using flat black rustoleum latex paint. He said thin it with water, wipe it on and then wipe it off just like stain. I did it on some birch plywood shelving and it turned out good but I havent lacquered it yet, so I'm a little concerned still. He did say though that lacquer over it would not be a problem. I have a lot of this paint left over. Do you think it would look ok if I painted them then lacquered it? Or should I do like the plywood, thin it and wipe it on like stain and then lacquer it (satin/medium rubbed). Any other suggestions would be helpful too. I am looking for a solid black satin finish as my end result. I already have the flat black paint and medium rubbed lacquer, and would like to use them if you all think it will look ok.

I want to do this this weekend so any help would really be appreciated.


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## bradnailer

I do a lot of furniture pieces where I rub on wiping poly over latex paint. Haven't ever had a problem.


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## Barry Ward

*lacquer over latex paint*

I wouldn't try it as laquer can be very disagreeable with other finishes.So I to would go with the poly,plus I think the poly will give you as good if not better looking finish and will hold up better over the yrs.Good luck and let us know how it works out for you 
Ken


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## cabinetman

Lacquer can cause latex to craze. It should also not be applied over oil base varnish or oil base polyurethane. But, you can use oil base varnish or oilbase polyurethane, or waterbase polyurethane over latex.


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## BHOFM

With the wipe on wipe off thing, you might do a
test to see what it does?


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## djonesax

So I have another problem then.... I have foolishly listened to the guy at home depot and the bottom shelf of my stereo cabinet which is glued and screwed into a half inch dado was done this exact way. Its too late to remove the shelf is what I am getting at. I thinned the paint with water, wiped it on and wiped it off just like stain. I can still feel all the wood grain and it doesnt look painted at all, it just looks stained. I really dont want to use poly if I dont have to because I dont suck at brushing and dont have the facility to spray it correctly. I can spray lacquer out in my driveway and it dries so fast that I never have any issues with dust and it always turns out nice with no runs.

The guy at shirwin williams seems to think the lacquer will be ok as long as I can still fell the wood grain and its not latex'y.

The guy at woodcraft says he has never tried it but doesnt think it will work.

If I try it on a test peice and it doesn start craze or bubble up, do you think it would be safe to use the lacquer?


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## Barry Ward

*lacquer over latex paint*

Your call ,but you don't have to spray poly,you can use wipe on poly and I have seen some beautifull work come from it.A little more work,but well worth the effort.


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## cabinetman

djonesax said:


> If I try it on a test peice and it doesn start craze or bubble up, do you think it would be safe to use the lacquer?




That all depends if the latex had a bad hair day and decides to go crazy.


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## bradnailer

Use wiping poly. It will take maybe 10 coats to get the look you want but it dries quicker and you can recoat in several hours. Most pieces I make, I might brush on a coat or two of poly to get a little build but will wipe on several additional coats for smoothness.


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## CharlesNeil

Lacquer works fine over latex paint...just be sure you use the flat version...not gloss, gloss will create a harder surface that the lacquer can crack over, i have done it for years and never an issue, and use the paint basically as you have, as a stain, to understand , latex paint and waterbased stains are about one in the same, apply a thinned coat, let it dry ,scuff sand it with about 320 to deburr it then apply another coat, let it dry well ..overnight or several days, then use your lacquer...one of the things you are possibly going to find is that the paint will not be black enough, very typical, get you some waterbased india ink , usually available at any craft store and add it to the paint it will be black, it is also common for black's to appear purple before topcoating here is a little video showing what i am talking about ,just consider your thinned paint as the stain http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/bcpid1305031876/bclid1311197674/bctid1482436918


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## djonesax

Thanks for all the help. I brushed on some lacquer in some hidden areas and so far it looks ok. I am going to chance it and go with this one shelf the way it is. I picked up some transTint for the rest of the shelves so I dont have to worry. I have never used this stuff, but if I screw up the stain, I have a great hook up for glass shelves. I can get tempered at cost from a friend.

Maybe someone can answer some questions I have about transtint. What is the benefit to using alcohol over water? Also if I premix a full quart, how long will it be good for on the shelf?

Thanks,

David


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## djonesax

I sprayed over the latex with lacquer on Sunday and no problems yet. I'll keep my fingers crossed though. Anyone reading this thinking about trying this. Keep in mind that I sprayed over a thinned down flat latex paint and wiped it all off after brushing it on. The wood grain could be felt easily when I moved my hand across it.

David


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