# Table saw miter slots to blade = no adjustments



## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

I'm new here so forgive me in advance if this is in the wrong section. I recently picked up an old table saw and I'm having difficulty adjusting my miter slots to be parallel with the blade. I know all about loosening the 4 bolts on the trunion to make the adjustments; however, it won't move. (see pic of one of the bolts). None of the holes are slotted which makes absolutely no sense to me. The holes are barely big enough to allow the bolts to go through. I'm at a total loss on how to make any adjustments. 

The saw's manual says "miter slots are parallel to the blade from the factory". I have to much money invested in the saw now to just scrap it (replaced the arbor bearings, installed a new 2hp motor, new rip fence, etc..) Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? The blade is off a good 1/16" which is making it impossible to get square cuts. 

The table saw I have is a Hitachi C12Y. It's a cabinet saw with a cast iron top and cast iron wings.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Nick - I"m not familiar with that saw, but I have seen situations where the holes around the trunnion brackets need to be elongated in order to make adjustments. 

Getting the blade parallel to the miter slots is helpful because the miter slots represent what's assumed to be a reference point. If usuall adjustments aren't working for you, getting the blade parallel to the fence is the important adjustment, and there should definitely be an easy way of adjusting the fence. Subsuquently, you may also need to square your miter gauge to the blade if you can't get the blade aligned with the miter slots.

Once done, be sure to get a good blade for it, and you'll be in business!

Good luck and please followup to let us know how you made out.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It could be a nasty job*

If you loosen the 3 bolts which are obstructing the orientation of the trunnions in the direction it needs to move and let it pivot on the remaining bolt, can you see how much material needs to be removed by looking underneath with a flashlight into the holes?

The next part you're not gonna like.:thumbdown: If you can turn the saw upside down on the table top you can see much better what needs to be done and do the required "machining" a whole lot easier. Removing the wings will help reduce the weight. I have done this on a 12" Craftsman saw so I know how heavy they are. The trick is to remember which way to enlarge the holes now that it's upside down. Make a paper pattern showing which way they need to go.
If they can be drilled in place without taking the trunnions completely off... great. :yes: If not, a rat tail file and some hand work is required, but look at it this way ...this will only need to be done once in your life time and once in the lifetime of that saw. :laughing:
Since you have done a lot of work prior to this don't stop now and settle for a half*ss solution. The blade, slots and fence should all be parallel in the best of woodworking worlds. The slots are the reference to make the adjustments. Best of luck,  bill


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

If/when you find that you find that you cannot adjust the blade to be parallel to the slots you can work aroundd it.

Either a sled or a quality miter guage can be set up to be 90 degrees to the blade. Of course it can also be accurately set to any other angle that is required. I have never even bothered to check the dimensions of the blade to the miter slot because for me it is easier just to use my sled for any type of crosscutting I have to do.

George


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## Jim West Pa (Jul 27, 2010)

*WELCOME Nick*

Yer gonna hafta do what knotscott and Bill said. Aint no gittin around it.
I've got a suggestion. 
Remove the top and then use a drill bit a bit bigger than the existing holes in the trunion brackets and enlarge them.
That should give you more than enough 'play' to make yer adjustments.
You may have to add some washers and or lock washers dependin on the size o' yer bolt heads.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i align the slots to blade on my saw by loosening the (4) table hold down screws in the corners, and tapping the table to new position and tigten down. if you have a cab saw, you may look for that method.


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## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

Thanks for all the info. Looks like I'll be doing some drilling. I like the idea of flipping the saw on it's top so all the weight is on the ground...that sucker is heavy!! I have an old blanket I'll use so the top doesn't get scratched/grooved up. The cabinet looks fairly straight forward in terms of removing it from the cast iron top (just 4 bolts). Once I remove that i'll have full access to the 4 bolts that secure the trunion brackets to the top. I'm hoping I can drill through all that iron...those iron brackets are at least 1" thick. The holes now are 1/2" (I took one bolt out and a 1/2" drill bit barely slipped in). It still makes no sense why they didn't make the holes slotted.

Adjusting the miter guage to the blade will not fix the problem. I tried adjusting it for 3 hours one night and could not get it to cut wood square. I even tried 2 different squares. Standing in front of the saw...the "rear" of the blade is closer to the Left miter slot while the "front" of the blade is further away from the Left miter slot. So even with the miter guage squared to the blade the miter slot is still not parallel to the blade. Now I gotta find someone who has drill bits bigger than 1/2" lol. I will take pictures of the process and keep everyone updated.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I'm not a machinist so..*

I don't know if this would work. Helicoil inserts can be had in standard thread sizes, like 1/2" x13. If you were to thread the insert into the existing holes could you then use the next size smaller bolt to attach the saw? I donno? It would give more space around the bolt and it may alleviate drilling larger holes in the *trunnions.*
Just a thought. A 9/16" drill will really only give a 1/32" movement of the trunnion. A 5/8" would give 1/16" which sounds better except twirlling a 5/8 bit will require a HD slow speed drill and it may get wrenched out of your hands...been there, done that. 
If you can remove the* trunnions* I would take them to a machine shop or buddy to mill/drill them out with slots. That's really the best way. 1" thick iron is not to be messed with. JMO.  bill
http://www.helicoilchart.com/helicoil-repair-kits-inch/


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I must be missing something here. I don't see how drilling bigger holes in the table will help. Can't you just open the holes in the trunnion to get a little slop. Shouldn't take much, you only have to pick up a 1/16" and that's likely 4-6" away from the blade. 
At least that's the way I see it from the pics.:huh:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

John - I think the plan is to drill out the trunnion brackets that attach to the table so they have some wiggle room, and not drill the table itself. Bill's suggestion is to put helicoils in the threads of the table so a smaller bolt could be used thus created some wiggle room without drilling the brackets....a pretty clever idea IMHO! :thumbsup:


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## Jim West Pa (Jul 27, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> I don't know if this would work. Helicoil inserts can be had in standard thread sizes, like 1/2" x13. If you were to thread the insert into the existing holes could you then use the next size smaller bolt to attach the saw? I donno? It would give more space around the bolt and it may alleviate drilling larger holes.


Great idea Bill :thumbsup:


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## joek30296 (Dec 16, 2009)

Since yours is a cabinet saw, before you go to the trouble of turning the saw upside down and enlarging trunion holes, try loosing the 4 bolts that secure the top to the cabinet and see if the top will move. If it will, then you should be able to align it that way. IIRC, that's how we adjusted the PM 66 we had at work and also how I aligned my Unisaw.
Just my 2 cents. Keep us posted whichever way you decide.

joe


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*been there, done that*



NickSaw76 said:


> I'm new here so forgive me in advance if this is in the wrong section. I recently picked up an old table saw and I'm having difficulty adjusting my miter slots to be parallel with the blade. * I know all about loosening the 4 bolts on the trunion to make the adjustments; however, it won't move. *(see pic of one of the bolts). None of the holes are slotted which makes absolutely no sense to me. The holes are barely big enough to allow the bolts to go through. I'm at a total loss on how to make any adjustments.


It won't move. :thumbdown:


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## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

joek30296 said:


> Since yours is a cabinet saw, before you go to the trouble of turning the saw upside down and enlarging trunion holes, try loosing the 4 bolts that secure the top to the cabinet and see if the top will move. If it will, then you should be able to align it that way. IIRC, that's how we adjusted the PM 66 we had at work and also how I aligned my Unisaw.
> Just my 2 cents. Keep us posted whichever way you decide.
> 
> joe


My saw is set up a little different. The complete trunion assembly on my saw is bolted directly to the bottom of the cast iron top. The trunion assembly on the type of saws you're talking about (Unifence, Powermatic, Grizzly, etc) is bolted to the cabinet and not the iron top. That's why you can unloosen the 4 bolts from your cabinet and "knock" the table top into postion. If I were to do that on mine nothing changes because the trunion assembly is moving right along with the iron top. 

I really like the suggestion of using helicoils. All the bolts are Metric on my saw so I'd have to find metric threads. I don't want the bolts to get to small because they are holding the complete trunion assembly and the motor as well. Would have to use super hardened bolts for sure. I will keep everyone posted on what I end up doing.

I will look into the


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## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

Update...

I was able to make the mounting holes on the trunion brackets bigger (see pic). I had to completely disassemble the entire saw to get the brackets off...it was not fun. To make sure I'd have enough "play" I went ahead and filed off an inch of threads (see pic). This kinda worked like the helicoil bolts someone had mentioned. Got everything back together and now I have more than enough play.

After all that though, I'm still having trouble getting square cuts. I'm beyond frustrated at this point. I even purchased a new miter guage (Incra 1000se) but that didn't help. I used a square to check my miter guage (see pic) and it's dead on. From there I adjusted the trunion assembly so that the blade was square with the Mitier Guage. The wood still does not cut square. I spent almost 2 hours trying different adjustments and nothing helps. Any ideas on what I can do? I think I'm just so frustrated at this point i'm over looking something simple.

Larger holes made in trunion brackets:









Filed bolts down to allow for even more "play":









Checked Mitier Guage with a square...it's dead on:









Wood will not cut square:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Not quite right*

You said this: From there I adjusted the trunion assembly so that the blade was square with the miter gauge.

You need to do this: *adjust the trunnions using a good blade on the arbor or a flat sanding disc or a piece of flat plywood secured on the arbor to measure from both the rear of the plate to the right hand miter slot and from the front of the blade/plate to the right hand miter slot. The measurements should be as close as you can get them.... a few thousands.
*
Do not use a miter gauge as the square reference. It's possible in theory that it might work, but it's not the standard procedure.

The miter slots are the standard reference to true the trunnions and then the fence is trued to the slots. Then the mitergauge is squared to the blade. If you square the gauge to the blade and the blade is NOT parallel to the slots, when you slide the gauge in the slots it will end up with a taper...as you have discovered.

Nice job on the bolts!  bill


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Just out of curiosity, you might try moving the miter fence and switching to the opposite miter track. If the cuts are square then, you might have a misscut miter slot. 

How's it look if you put the square on the miter fence and blade?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

NickSaw76 said:


> From there I adjusted the trunion assembly so that the blade was square with the Mitier Guage.


You might have meant "miter slot". In checking the square of the blade to the miter slot, use a full size blade, and have it cranked all the way up. That way you have the points of measure (the same tooth used at the front, and at the back) the most distance apart (when measured from the saw top level). While you're measuring, you could rotate the blade 90 degrees and use another tooth for the same procedure. That'll give a cross section check of the blade and the arbor. The right or left miter slot can be used, but it might just be a habit for me to use the left one.

I might also suggest to insert a tight fitting piece of 3/4" (if your slot is 3/4" wide), with a height that finishes at the saw table. This gives a good clean sharp edge to measure to. Most of the saws I've had, the edges of the miter slot were ever so slightly eased (not a very sharp edge).












 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I use the right hand slot*

Because that's where my fence sits on the right side of the blade.
I true the fence to the same slot as the blade/arbor/trunnions so the reference is always the right side miter slot. 
If the left side slot is milled "off" then there is no adjustment that will make it "right". I realize the left slot is used with the miter gauge almost exclusively, so if the slots aren't parallel it could result in a difference.  bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Because that's where my fence sits on the right side of the blade.
> I true the fence to the same slot as the blade/arbor/trunnions so the reference is always the right side miter slot.
> If the left side slot is milled "off" then there is no adjustment that will make it "right". I realize the left slot is used with the miter gauge almost exclusively, so if the slots aren't parallel it could result in a difference.  bill


IMO, it doesn't make any difference, because once you check the left slot, you can measure slot to slot. I picked the left slot to start with as I cut with my fence 98% of the time to the right of the blade. My most used slot would be the left slot. Both slots can be used for a dual slot sled, which in that case, the slots should be checked for parallel.












 







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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

#1 you need to get the blade parallel to the slots. as cman said, blade all the way up. use the "same tooth" to measure distance to the slot. i use a tight fitting piece of wood in the slot above the table, so i can use inside calipers for the measurement.

you new miter may need adjusted as well. to check with a "good" square (check with other squares), joint a straight edge first, make a 90 deg cut, then check with the square on the jointed edge (remove the burrs first).


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## joek30296 (Dec 16, 2009)

This may sound dumb but I had a similar problem a while back and posted the problem on here. Someone suggested.."Check your square!" I, like you, was using a fixxed blade square which I thought was square. Turned out it wasn't. Soooo, just for good measures, check it.

Joe


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> IMO, it doesn't make any difference, because once you check the left slot, you can measure slot to slot. I picked the left slot to start with as I cut with my fence 98% of the time to the right of the blade. My most used slot would be the left slot. Both slots can be used for a dual slot sled, which in that case, the slots should be checked for parallel.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just so I understand...you measure to the left slot to align the blade/trunnions. OK.
Then do you align the fence to the left slot even though it's used 98% of the time on the right side of the blade?
Do you use the right side of the fence to align to the left slot or the left side of the fence?
In the case of a Unifence, which I use, that's not gonna work because the fence can be switch to either side of the head and the switching may result in error. I also use a Biesemeyer which would make it easier, but still who's to say that both sides of the fence are parallel?

If the slots aren't parallel there is no adjustment for that, so you'd have to compensate by squaring the miter gauge to the blade. As long as that relationship is square it shouldn't matter.
This is like picking nose hairs from a house mouse, but it's interesting how others have a different approach.  bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Just so I understand...you measure to the left slot to align the blade/trunnions. OK.
> Then do you align the fence to the left slot even though it's used 98% of the time on the right side of the blade?


Yup



woodnthings said:


> Do you use the right side of the fence to align to the left slot or the left side of the fence?


Nope


woodnthings said:


> In the case of a Unifence, which I use, that's not gonna work because the fence can be switch to either side of the head and the switching may result in error. I also use a Biesemeyer which would make it easier, but still who's to say that both sides of the fence are parallel?


That's easy enough to check



woodnthings said:


> If the slots aren't parallel there is no adjustment for that, so you'd have to compensate by squaring the miter gauge to the blade.


That's never been the case, but if it was, I would just reference off the left slot. I wouldn't do any "compensating".



woodnthings said:


> This is like picking nose hairs from a house mouse, but it's interesting how others have a different approach.  bill


Yes it is. *BTW...Just checking my red ink supply. Seems to be OK.*












 







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## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

The saw blades I'm using are brand new Craftsman 10" blades. I had the blade in it's highest position and used the same tooth method to check the Left miter slot. I don't have ultra precise measuring equipment. Should I get a "precision square"? Grizzly sells them and their catalog says you can use their precision squares to check other squares...sounds like it doesn't get anymore square than that ha ha 

As far as the square I'm using, when I cut wood on my DeWalt 12" Chop Saw my square shows the wood is perfectly square. I'm half tempted to buy that special plate Grizzly sells that mounts to the arbor (I just don't have the cash right now or I would). Could I make my own? I was thinking of planing a piece of oak to 3/8" thick and cutting it to 10" x 10" square. I would then mount that to the arbor so I have a nice flat surface to work with. 

The "edges" of my miter slots are not very sharp. The saw is pretty old so they have become kinda rounded over in spots. I think I will also take a piace of Oak, cut it 20" long and plane it to 3/4" thick. This way I can place it in the slot and have a nice edge to work off of. Thanks again for all of the suggestions I'm going to try them all.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

NickSaw76 said:


> I don't have ultra precise measuring equipment.


I don't either. I use one of those things called a tape measure.












 







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## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

Another update.

For the heck of it, I made the blade parallel with the Right miter slot instead of the Left. I went out and picked up a metal rule with 32'nds of an inch markings. Once I got the blade parallel to the Right slot I squared up the Miter Guage to the blade. I now get perfectly square cuts using the Right miter slot (the carbide teeth on the front and rear of the blade make equal contact with the wood as it passes along). Now here's what's weird, when I move the miter guage to the Left miter slot the wood no longer cuts square. I'm just going to use the Right slot for now on.


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## AlWood (Apr 18, 2010)

NickSaw76 said:


> Update...
> 
> I was able to make the mounting holes on the trunion brackets bigger (see pic). I had to completely disassemble the entire saw to get the brackets off...it was not fun. To make sure I'd have enough "play" I went ahead and filed off an inch of threads (see pic). This kinda worked like the helicoil bolts someone had mentioned. Got everything back together and now I have more than enough play.
> 
> After all that though, I'm still having trouble getting square cuts. I'm beyond frustrated at this point. I even purchased a new miter guage (Incra 1000se) but that didn't help. I used a square to check my miter guage (see pic) and it's dead on. From there I adjusted the trunion assembly so that the blade was square with the Mitier Guage. The wood still does not cut square. I spent almost 2 hours trying different adjustments and nothing helps. Any ideas on what I can do? I think I'm just so frustrated at this point i'm over looking something simple.


Nick, sorry, I've not read carefully all the other responses, but (1) to have a blade square to miter SLOTS and (2) to have square cut (i. e. miter GUAGE squared to blade&slots) -- are different issues. I still don't understand whether you've squared your blade/trunions with miter slots (with the precision down to ~ 0.001 - 0.002 inches). Once this is done and established, you are on your easy path. As far as your miter gauge -- make sure that your test piece of wood is properly fixed in it (pretty often, holding it just by your hand may be not good enough, e. g, in the morning after a good party:yes:...) For tunning purposes, try to fix your piece of wood in a gauge by some holding device (e. g. by a clamp...)


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*try this "for the heck of it"*



NickSaw76 said:


> Another update.
> 
> For the heck of it, I made the blade parallel with the Right miter slot instead of the Left. I went out and picked up a metal rule with 32'nds of an inch markings. Once I got the blade parallel to the Right slot I squared up the Miter Guage to the blade. I now get perfectly square cuts using the Right miter slot (the carbide teeth on the front and rear of the blade make equal contact with the wood as it passes along). Now here's what's weird, when I move the miter guage to the Left miter slot the wood no longer cuts square. I'm just going to use the Right slot for now on.


Place your squared miter gauge in the left slot. Lower the blade. 
place a long strip on wood on the miter gauge in front of the blade, so the right end of it just rubs the 3/4" strip you cut that fits in the slot. Without moving the strip, slide the miter gauge rearward behind the blade and see if it walks away or actually rubs/touches more. This will indicate if the left slot is parallel to the right slot.
OR... you could simply measure from one edge to the corresponding edge/location on the other slot at the front and at the rear of the saw. Hopefully they are parallel... bill


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## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

AlWood said:


> Nick, sorry, I've not read carefully all the other responses, but (1) to have a blade square to miter SLOTS and (2) to have square cut (i. e. miter GUAGE squared to blade&slots) -- are different issues. I still don't understand whether you've squared your blade/trunions with miter slots (with the precision down to ~ 0.001 - 0.002 inches). Once this is done and established, you are on your easy path. As far as your miter gauge -- make sure that your test piece of wood is properly fixed in it (pretty often, holding it just by your hand may be not good enough, e. g, in the morning after a good party:yes:...) For tunning purposes, try to fix your piece of wood in a gauge by some holding device (e. g. by a clamp...)


I squared the blade/trunions to the Right miter slot. The Right slot still had a nice sharp edge on it since it hardly ever gets used. I would like to have the precision down to .001 -.002 but I don't have the tools to make such fine measurements. I'm within 1/32'nds of an inch...witch is the best I could do with what I have. I may even try to see if I can get inbetween the 32nd's marks but I need to find a magnifier to help me see it better. I will also try as you suggested and clamp the wood to the miter guage. I'm holding it as tight as I possibly can but like you're saying it "could" ever so slightly slide as I'm cutting.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

I only use miter gauge for rough cuts only . I only use a cross cut sled for my detail cuts only .
Here is a great you tube


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## CNYCarl (Apr 16, 2011)

Nick, send me a PM- I'd gladly mill the bolt holes to slots for you.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*did you see post 15?*

Update...

I was able to make the mounting holes on the trunion brackets bigger (see pic). I had to completely disassemble the entire saw to get the brackets off...it was not fun. To make sure I'd have enough "play" I went ahead and filed off an inch of threads (see pic). This kinda worked like the helicoil bolts someone had mentioned. Got everything back together and* now I have more than enough play.*  bill


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## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> Place your squared miter gauge in the left slot. Lower the blade.
> place a long strip on wood on the miter gauge in front of the blade, so the right end of it just rubs the 3/4" strip you cut that fits in the slot. Without moving the strip, slide the miter gauge rearward behind the blade and see if it walks away or actually rubs/touches more. This will indicate if the left slot is parallel to the right slot.
> OR... you could simply measure from one edge to the corresponding edge/location on the other slot at the front and at the rear of the saw. Hopefully they are parallel... bill


You're little trick worked. Instead of using a strip of wood I used a metal rule secured to the squared miter guage. With the metal rule just barely touching the 3/4" wood in the Right miter slot, I began to slide it forward. As it slid forward it wanted to dig into the 3/4" wood strip. I don't know how or why but the 2 miter slots are not perfectly parallel...unbelievable! This has to be why I was having so many problems. Quality control must have taken the day off when my saw was built. 

I adjusted the trunion to make it parallel with the Left miter slot this time. It cuts nice and square now. I just won't be able to use the Right miter slot which is fine because I never do. Thanks again for everyones help and suggestions it truly helped me out. With everything back together I'm ready to do some wood working


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## yocalif (Nov 11, 2010)

Glad you got your problem solved Nicksaw...

This thread is full of useful information, had been very interesting to follow...


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

out of curiousity, have you measured between the two miter slots, front and back?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TimPa said:


> out of curiousity, have you measured between the two miter slots, fornt and back?


Going along with checking just the miter gauge slots, well fitted pieces of wood to fit the slots that stands a bit high from the table can be used to check the slots to see if they are square to the saw table. Using a good framing square (it can be checked with the procedure below), lay the short leg of the square on the edge of the table top and the long blade should fit tightly to the edge of the wood.

Procedure to check or fix your framing square.












 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*For future issues like this*

Reduced shank bolts may solve the problem rather than enlarging the trunnion holes. Like these: http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A0PDoS6gAc1OSSQAfjyJzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTBlMTQ4cGxyBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1n?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3F_adv_prop%3Dimage%26va%3Dreduced%2Bshank%2Bbolts%26fr%3Dytff1-tyc7%26b%3D1%26tab%3Dorganic&w=711&h=300&imgurl=www.mip-group.com%2Fsolidgenius.com%2Fstandards%2Fpictures%2Fdin%25207964.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mip-group.com%2Fsolidgenius.com%2Fstandards%2Fdin_7964.htm&size=23.5+KB&name=Reduced+shank+bolts+and+screws+with+coarse+thread&p=reduced+shank+bolts&oid=7ea15a5be6e70457425d16ee3dab3cbf&fr2=&fr=ytff1-tyc7&tt=Reduced+shank+bolts+and+screws+with+coarse+thread&b=0&ni=30&no=1&tab=organic&ts=&sigr=11vropqeb&sigb=13hvqoa8k&sigi=1236orh4u&.crumb=bveyN2D2Vcs

http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=ytff1-tyc7&va=reduced+shank+bolts


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## NickSaw76 (Nov 10, 2011)

I think I'm going to have to cut my losses and get rid of this saw. I regret getting it. After all the work of aligning the blade to the miter slot it still won't cut square. It seems whenever I lower the blade all the way and raise it up something shifts or moves which throws the alignments off again. I have all the bolts on the trunion brackets as tight as I can make them. Any tighter and they will snap off. It shouldn't be this difficult making these type of adjustments. I don't understand why the adjustments wont hold. Is it possible it's just worn out and everything's loose? The saw is pretty old and made in China. Sucks because I have a new motor and rip fence invested in everything. Will prob just part it out and scrap the saw. So angry right now!!!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*fill the bolt holes with epoxy*

After you line it up just epoxy the holes to keep it from shifting....

look for something that's binding or touching like a motor pulley that hits the bottom of the table or...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

With as tight as you have made it, you may have stretched the threads. New bolts and washers may solve the problem. You may want to disassemble the parts and clean all the metal parts so that there's no slipping of metal to metal when tightened. Dry metal has good friction. You might just watch from underneath when raising and lowering to see if there is any obstruction.

Using a filler for the holes as suggested will likely just get crunched, IMO. If your saw is a candidate for the* "PALS"* modification, that will simplify getting it into adjustment, and maintaining adjustment. 












 







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