# attaching glass to wood



## rutharchambault

I am building an "end table" which will have a round glass top (36" diameter). I would like this top to sit directly on four wood supports. What is the best way to anchor the glass top to the supports? It will be a similar situation to this table on a furniture website...

http://www.contemporaryfurniture.com/500.asp?ProdNum=ct-ai-reid&ProdID=00000897&CatID=18

thanks!
ruth


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## Just Bill

I would guess that the glass does not want to be glued down, but need to be replacable??? The support points should be padded to prevent movement and scratching the glass. The support should also be far enough out that tipping is not an issue. But if you insist on gluing. There are adhesives that will glue anything to anything. Wood is the easy part, glass is harder. And it should not show.


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## Gerry KIERNAN

If you plan to attach the glass to the wood supports I would suggest clear silicone adhesive/sealant.

Gerry


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## cabinetman

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

Go to a glass supplier and pick up flexible plastic discs. They are clear, about 1/16" thick, and about the diameter of a nickel. Glass won't slide around when these are used.


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## GeorgeC

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> If you plan to attach the glass to the wood supports I would suggest clear silicone adhesive/sealant.
> 
> Gerry


Yes.

G


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## rutharchambault

Thanks for the replies. The flexible discs appeal to me! I'll try them first and if not satisfied, will drag out the tube of silicone adhesive. If I go that route and the glass ever has to be replaced, maybe I could just saw off the top 1/4 inch of the supports, and create a shorter table!:icon_smile:


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## skymaster

what about stretchers to attach the legs together and a radius'd rabbitt on the top of the legs to support the glass, or just make legs smaller diameter than glass and let it overhang the legs, use the pads to keep from slipping?


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## rutharchambault

skymaster said:


> what about stretchers to attach the legs together and a radius'd rabbitt on the top of the legs to support the glass, or just make legs smaller diameter than glass and let it overhang the legs, use the pads to keep from slipping?


Yes, my design calls for letting the glass overhang the legs (this particular design I came up with will look better without a rabbeted circular "frame" atop the legs in my opinion). For that reason, I was seeking advice on how to attach the glass to the legs, so it wouldn't slip around or get knocked off! That's why I believe the little flexible pads might just work. I hope so, as I'd like to avoid gluing, since the glue, even though transparent, would show through the glass, unless someone out there knows a way to keep that from happening!

Thanks again to the responses from everyone. I appreciate them very much.


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## Verndog

Hi,
Not sure if it would be applicable for your project but I tried gluing a stile onto glass with hot glue gun to no avail. After that failed I used Gorilla glue it expands and is a bet messy but the stile is still in place and hasn't moved after 6-9 months.
Vern


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## rutharchambault

Verndog said:


> Hi,
> Not sure if it would be applicable for your project but I tried gluing a stile onto glass with hot glue gun to no avail. After that failed I used Gorilla glue it expands and is a bet messy but the stile is still in place and hasn't moved after 6-9 months.
> Vern


Thanks, Vern. I'm not a big fan of Gorilla glue. I think it's the messiness you mentioned that bugs me! But I'm glad to know it is working for your situation! Anyway, I think I have my glass-to-wood issue solved now with those "bump-on" flexible pads placed between leg ends (the upper ends) and the glass top. It seems to be working so far! Yeah! I love it when I can avoid gluing:smile:


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## Gerry KIERNAN

If you ever find yourself in the place where you have to replace the glass, for some reason, a good sharp razor knife will slice through the silicone. No sweat.

Gerry


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## rutharchambault

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> If you ever find yourself in the place where you have to replace the glass, for some reason, a good sharp razor knife will slice through the silicone. No sweat.
> 
> Gerry


Well, that makes sense, and is something that hadn't occurred to me! Duh! Thanks!!


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## johnjf0622

I used the clear silicone for our front door. It is an old oak door from 1926. The glass had to be replaced, I put a thin bead all around the rabbit and placed the glass in. It does not move one bitparts where it squeezed out , I waited til it dried and cut it away with a razor.


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