# sliding miter saw work station ??



## Buckhunter (Jan 6, 2008)

I'm looking for a plan for a sliding miter saw work station . Anyone have any suggestions or pics of their own they want to show off ?????


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Do you want the work station to be portable or will it be stationary? I have a buddy who built one that he carries from site to site, but it is not collapsable, is very heavy, and takes up lots of space in his trailer. But it is quite a good design for a stationary application. In fact I am going to duplictae his design with a few modifications when I re=arrange my shop - hopefully this lifetime . . . .:blink:


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## Buckhunter (Jan 6, 2008)

I'm thinking of a stationary work station


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

A stationary sliding miter saw work station is most usefull if you have at least 8 ft on both sides of the blade. The platform should support a 1x12" with enough room to grab the board and slide it both directions. The fence should have a sliding stop block that can be used on either side for multiple cutting. It`s a good idea to keep this block a little higher than the cutting surface to keep saw dust from being trapped between the stop and work piece. If you`re building the extension wings on a flat table... you can build-in storage areas. Secure the saw and check the extension wings with a door level. I hope this helps


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## Roger Sargent (Mar 29, 2008)

*Stationary mitre saw work station*

I'm planning a stationary sliding mitre saw station so I'm glad Buckhunter asked. Does anyone have any more tips, such as how to set it up and adjust it to the saw. I'm using a Makita 10" sliding saw.


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

Buckhunter said:


> I'm looking for a plan for a sliding miter saw work station . Anyone have any suggestions or pics of their own they want to show off ?????


This work station is in The New Yankee Work Shop. That Norm has it all.:yes:


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## daryl in nanoose (Feb 18, 2007)

I have the Makita scm saw and here are my thoughts
From the front legs to the back pushed all the way back is 29" it is also important you remember to make a foot print measurement of the saw fully pushed back in full bevel position left to right so you leave enough clearance. Because your moving the saw foward and backwards it is also important you anchor that saw so it won't budge and the same goes for the fence.I know this sounds like common sense but trust me take the time to make this solid as a rock so you won't have problems later.
A flip stop is a major assett to this whole set up, right now all I have is a t-track dadoed on the top of the fence and I used a piece of heavy aluminum L that slides in the track. Problem is you have to remove it and you lose your setting so building one or buying one would be the way to go on this.
When your designing this hole set up keep in mind " Dust Collection"


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## David K (Oct 9, 2007)

Handyman says
Expert = Drip under pressure 

Well, for those who under-estimate the wisdom of newcomers, "An expert is a Spurt that's already happened".


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