# Good Find?



## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

Just bought a no.6 Stanley foreplane at a fleamarket. Paid $35. Think it was a good deal are what? I think so


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Ooh, a 6C. Lever cap looks to be not chipped, the tote seems solid. I'd be pleased with that deal.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Very nice and for an excellent price! 

Should clean up great, I highly recommend evaporust for the initial cleaning.

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

firemedic said:


> Very nice and for an excellent price!
> 
> Should clean up great, I highly recommend evaporust for the initial cleaning.
> 
> ~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


While I have not used Evaporust I thought I had a similar product. However the one I was thinking of was a product called Rust Off. It contains 625 g/l or 62.5% Phosphoric Acid.

While my friend Google says Evaporust has a neutral ph. So, I cannot comment on Evaporust but what I have always done on old tools like old planes and old saws is to use a system called Electrolysis.

It safely removes rust and is a great start to rehabbing old tools.

Pete


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Good find. The 6C is not as common as many others and it looks good if a bit rusty. Electrolysis should serve you well. I too champion evaporust. It's very "green" and works great and can be used several times over if you filter out the crud.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Nice find. Good price too. Post some pics when you dress it up.










 







.


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## AliveByGrace (Jan 6, 2012)

When restoring old/antique planes like this, does lapping the sole hurt the value of them?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I've restored a few and while I'm not a collector but a user in my experience it seems to be the general consensus that mild restorations done to bring a tool up to user grade don't detract from value.

I can tell you with absolute certainty that some collectors want planes in totally untouched condition while others appreciate well done complete restorations so there is no cut and dry answer.

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Depends who's placing the value on it.

A collector won't want it touched, a wood worker will.

...GEAUX KNICKS...


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

What should I do to "dress it up" a little. I was thinking of knocking the light rust off the bottom and maybe putting something to keep it smooth. What could I use?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Cedar fly said:


> What should I do to "dress it up" a little. I was thinking of knocking the light rust off the bottom and maybe putting something to keep it smooth. What could I use?


I would highly recommend cleaning it up if it's going to be a user. 

I would completely disassemble it and soak all metal parts in evaporust overnight. Rinse off, and clean all bare metal with brass wool before putting a protective film on it. The evaporust won't damage the japanning because it's a neutral cleaner and boy does is sure leave rusty metal looking like new!

I also really like topcote for the bed of the planes and actually coat all the m

Notice I said "I would"... 

As for lapping the sole, it depends on how bad off it is. But I like to get it lapped down to at least 600x (obviously flattened not just sanded)

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

Where do I find evaporust and for how much? Also, what is the difference between regular and brass steel wool? Is it less coarse?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Cedar fly said:


> Where do I find evaporust and for how much? Also, what is the difference between regular and brass steel wool? Is it less coarse?


You can find evaporust at autozone, HF, and a lot of hardware stores. The local hardware store here is the only place I've found it in gallons. It's a bit over $20 for a gal.

Brass wool is just softer than steel so I won't scratch the steel but cleans the surface. I would think you could use fine steel instead though.

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

You ought to post in process pics. I've got a plane I need to do. Would love to see how its done.


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

Will do. It may be a slow process though with a few other projects going on. My first step will be to get some evaporust. I've heard of the electric method but it sounds a little too tedious for me


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

Cedar fly said:


> Will do. It may be a slow process though with a few other projects going on. My first step will be to get some evaporust. I've heard of the electric method but it sounds a little too tedious for me


-----------------
Strangely, it is not tedious. Once you organise a set up, you have got it forever. it is so simple and less messy than other ideas I have used. You will be amazed watching the rust flow from the plane across the water and cling to the sacraficial metal rod.

I use it on all my old finders and dunk them in. When the Electrolysis has done its job a wrinse in fresh water and perhaps a little clean up with kero or WD40 spray and a wipe down. If there is a tough bit left, which I will doubt, use some Evaporust.

The medium to use for electrolysis is plain common Washing Soda you get from the cleaning aisle in any Supermarket. All you need is a small car battery charger a container full of water to submerge the plane in and two rods a positive and a negative. it is as simple as that.

Because I like old tools I got a plumber mate to provide me with a used 10 inch pipe about 4 feet long. However, it came with the overrider that I had to give all his old tools a bath and some fifty year old hand saws that belonged to his grandfather. Oh, I had to sharpen some chisels too. Plumbers do not come cheap here,

The system is a lot easier than how it reads when you google Electrolysis.

I have never used Evaporust so cannot say how it differs in results, but somehow, I think the Electrolysis is the better method and a lot cheaper. generally, you can find a plstic tub or container around the shop. Most people have an old battery charger, they are cheap anyway,, just get the cheapest you can , you are not trying to quick charge a truck battery.

Keep us informed. It would be interesting to hear what others think that have used both methods and given them both a good try and not quitting straight away until they worked the systems out.


Pete


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

So let me see if I understand.....

Take an old bucket and fill it up with (dont remember what you said). Run two rods down and run a positive wire to one and a negative to the other. Then it should work.? Also how long to do this?


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

Ok I see but what kind of washing soda?


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

Cedar fly said:


> Ok I see but what kind of washing soda?


I am sure it is called Washing Soda of there. here it is just plain Washing Soda, I am sure some of the guys on here will know if it is called anything different.

Just look in the cleaning aisle of your supermarket or grocery Store. It is very cheap.

Pete


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

Cedar fly said:


> So let me see if I understand.....
> 
> Take an old bucket and fill it up with (dont remember what you said). Run two rods down and run a positive wire to one and a negative to the other. Then it should work.? Also how long to do this?


Note.

I use one rod that is connected to the positive battery lead. The other I connect plain fencing wire and tie or connect that to the object to be cleaned. Swith on. If you get the leads reversed you will see the bubbles flowing from the positive rod to your plane. 

In that case turn it off and just reverse the wiring so the bubbles and rust flow from the plane to the sacrificial rod.

You cannot do any harm in experimenting. Once you see the bubbles you know you are own you way.

Cleaning up after is easy. it really is a lot easier than some of the explanations of what is happening and why.

Google Electrolysis and check some of the simplified stuff on there, some guys make it more difficult. we just want to know How to set it up and does it work.

Pete


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

What do you suggest for after? I'd love to hear of some kind of tool finish. I normally finish with Johnson Pastewax after cleaning. I plan on starting as soon as possible


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

Even though i live on the Gold Coast, I am about 12 miles inland from the beach in the hinterland. I do not find i have a real rust problem here, like i believe you do in some parts of the States.

As long as it is in my shed I try to keep my old tools in a special Tool Cupboard i made for my old restorables. i find for these just a spray of WD40 or similar is sufficient.

However for my Jointer and table saw I do have to watch the cast iron and give it a clean up and use a product similar to Johnson's paste way. Their is another product called Esi glyde which does the same but much more expensive.

I will leave the final clean up to others who will understand your condition better than I can here.

pete


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

I went ahead and tried electrolysis and this is what I got.
After I disassembled






























Next is when I put them in the water with about 5 teaspoons of bicarb b/c that's what I had. Ignore the color of my tabe b/c I was thinking backwards. The negative should be the tool. I took the tools out and let them go longer. The 3rd pic is the second time






























To finish I washed in soapy water with fine steel wool and a wire brush. I only soaked about 2 1/2 hours but it could've used a little longer. I believe it is smarter to put 1 item in the bucket at a time if it's large, but I couldn't wait. Then I dried everything well and applied Johnson's Pastewax. I would like to try Topcote as Firemed suggested though.


















































I will probably leave the handles alone. Now I am just learning the best way to adjust it. Any more questions or suggestions just throw'em at me


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## fixrite (Dec 1, 2010)

If you want your plane to work well you will need to true up the plane. This is done by using a lapping plate. If you don't have one you can substitute sandpaper on a plate of glass. I have re-conditioned a number of planes and built some new handles for them as well. If the frog,throat and plane are trued you will get much better results from it as well as enjoy using it more. You can search online on how to tune up a plane.


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## fixrite (Dec 1, 2010)

there is a pretty good video on how to do basic set up here...http://woodtreks.com/how-to-tune-up-a-hand-plane/19/


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

In future when you do this again instead of putting the aligator clips from the battery charger directly on to the object to be cleaned, attach a bit of wire around it so it can be dunked completly then you can attach the other end of the wire to your clips. You will then have the clips well away from the water.

This will ensure that your clips do not get eaten or coroded away.

It looks like it was a success. Well done.

Pete

ps

you are right, it looks like you got the positive negative mixed up. the positive red, goes to the sacrificial rod, the negative, the black goes to the tool or object to be cleaned. No problems though if you forget, just watch which way the bubbles are floating. if they float towards the plane then you have got the wires reversed. They should flow from the tool to the sacrifical rod. 

No damage is done in that short time. Looks like you figured it out and got it right.


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

I also put the adjustment in with the brass knob, but quickly discovered not to. Luckily everything went well. I appreciate all advice and feedback given


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

What kind of rods did you use?


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Hot diggity! Looks like a new plane again! Nice job.


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

rayking49 said:


> What kind of rods did you use?


 
I will let "Cedar" answer what he used. Generally, you use what you have available.

This is what I have used, all with equal good results. 

Iron rod Rebar as used in the Construction industry.

Any old iron I find lying around

Tin plate

galvanised strips

When I started I had some difficulty finding suitable sacrificial rods. Now, when I see something that will work, I put it aside. it is amaizing what you throw out or walk by when you are not looking.

Once I have a small supply, I stop looking unless I see something that is more suitable then what is in my stash. Then I grab the new piece and throw out some of the less suitable I have stored.

All that I have mentiones will work, but some are more suitable to me because of my individual set up. What I throw out might just be what you are after and vice versa.

Pete


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

STAR said:


> I will let "Cedar" answer what he used. Generally, you use what you have available.
> 
> This is what I have used, all with equal good results.
> 
> ...


Thanks Pete. I'm going to try it out.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

Fly used Bi carb Soda. I use washinh Soda. I did not think that Bi carb would work, but there you go , it does.

Once you get the hang of it and have a little set up I think you will use it first then any final clean up do whatever. I generally just hose the object off with clean water to neutralise it the give it a spray with some WD40 or even Kerosene with a light rub with 0000 Fine Steel Wool.

Good luck

Pete

Ps you can use it to clean and sharpen up old files but I find cheap vinegar mixed 50 / 50 with water does a better job. it etches the files and brings them back to life.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Cool, I'll have to try that too.so bicarbonate soda is not the same stuff, huh?

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

Nope, different stuff.

I do not know your American brands but I am sure Arm & Hammer or similar sounding name have a washing Soda. It is found in Cleaning section of gGrocery or Supermarket store. Really cheap. Might be slightly cheaper then Bi Carb

Pete


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## Cedar fly (Feb 14, 2011)

rayking49 said:


> What kind of rods did you use?


The rod I used was actually just a piece used to spin down the spare on a truck. It was rusted so I grinded a clean area but it attracted the same everywhere so it wasn't necessary.
Bi-carb is the equivalent of baking soda but it is used in chemical plants. Use whatevers easiest. Just experiment like I did.


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