# Shaker door questions



## albertalbert (Jun 27, 2010)

Am about to begin building my solid cherry kitchen cabinets, Shaker style. I have two questions:

1) In regards to the door panels, is it preferable to glue up solid panels, or is it common to use plywood? (I have a matching T&G bit set for the router table - would plywood cut OK for the tongue part?)

2) what is preferable for the thickness of the panels? Should they sit flush to the frames (which are 3/4"), or just a hair in, or maybe only 1/4" panels that fit directly into the frame slots?

My aim is to do this right, so no shortcuts please! 

Thanks!


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## jstange2 (Dec 5, 2010)

I use all solid wood. I edge glue wood strips no wider than 3 inches and make sure the grain alternates direction on the ends. I make the panels the same thickness as the style from the back side to the front of the groove. When I cut the panels for size, I go 1/4" less in both directions and use these when assembling. I use a back cutter on the back of the panels.


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## sketel (Sep 15, 2010)

shaker doors by definition are flat (not raised) panels so they are usually set in at least a 1/4" from the frames. If you go with solid wood, it is an absolute necessity to do as jstange says and bring the panels flush with the frame on the back side. 1/4" edge glued panels will not hold up well.

Plywood is pretty common and you could get away with 1/4" material in that situation. You can always tell it's plywood though so if cost and time are not a concern, go with edge glued panels.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I don't agree that you can always tell plywood. If you use 1/4" plywood, you could veneer the bad side if it has one. It would depend on what you use. What you buy determines what you get. 

A 1/4" plywood panel can be glued into the frame, which will help square the frame and make for a more rigid door, than a floating solid panel. It would also be a lighter door.












 









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## jstange2 (Dec 5, 2010)

Doesn't plywood expand and contract more than solid. That is why big box always has to replace doors.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jstange2 said:


> Doesn't plywood expand and contract more than solid. That is why big box always has to replace doors.



No, plywood does not expand and contract like solid wood. It's very stable being laminated with "plys", or layers of veneer laid 90 degrees to each other.












 









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## timmybgood (Jan 11, 2011)

sketel said:


> shaker doors by definition are flat (not raised) panels so they are usually set in at least a 1/4" from the frames. If you go with solid wood, it is an absolute necessity to do as jstange says and bring the panels flush with the frame on the back side. 1/4" edge glued panels will not hold up well.


i have also seen where flat panels were accomplished with 3/4 stock by making raised panels and just having the raised part flipped inside.


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## Big Eyed Fish (Jan 31, 2011)

Our kitchen cabinets are shaker style made from beech. Our panels are solid edge glued, that are raised on the back side. It appears they are made from thinner stock than 3/4....probably closer to 1/2 or 5/8. They are inset from the frames by 1/8 to 1/4 inch on the front and the raised portion is flush with the back side of the frames. It makes for a very solid door.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

you got very good advice here. i'll add that you will need to t&g for the plywood thickness, less than 1/4" of course. there are t&g sets that will adjust for ply undersizing.


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## albertalbert (Jun 27, 2010)

Thanks all. Just bought a bunch of 3/4 cherry s2s (3 bucks/BF from Rockler  ), so I'm going to try my hand and edge gluing the panels, planing them down a hair, putting them flush on the backside. Might try those spaceballs as well. 

Going to use my router table as a jointer to dress the cherry. Never tried it, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Thanks again


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## sketel (Sep 15, 2010)

timmybgood said:


> i have also seen where flat panels were accomplished with 3/4 stock by making raised panels and just having the raised part flipped inside.


That's what the original response suggested. I agree, that's the way to do it when doing edge glued panes. But it would have to be 1/2" if doing 3/4" doors, or 3/4 if your doing full 1" doors. 

Your right, cabinetman, plywood does make a lighter door. That's part of the reason you can always tell if a panel is plywood or edge-glued panel. I'm not saying plywood always looks bad, just saying you can always tell it's plywood. And to me 1/4" plywood panels have a cheap feeling when opening them no matter how good the plywood looks. Too light in my opinion.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

I use MDF core plywood for this. Its available in 1/4",3/8",1/2",3/4" in any species and the veneer is mint both sides not even seams. Gorgeous stuff for the right purpose Doors panels


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## sketel (Sep 15, 2010)

sorry for the blurriness in the second photo, hopefully you can see the panel well enough.

The first door is edge-glued, bookmatched panels. The second is plywood. The plywood looks nice but you have more control over grain patterns/colors if you go edge-glued. Lots more labor so most peoplr wouldn't want to pay for it but if you are doing the work yourself...


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