# How much weight can wall studs hold for a wood rack?



## Chireaux (Aug 10, 2011)

Was thinking of putting a wood rack on 10 ft by 10ft wall in my garage. It would be 12 racks that support 110 lbs each. (2 supports on each side 12 racks high.) it just seems to me that it would be too much weight for studs to hold. I was also thinking I could buy 2 extra racks that way I have supports on 4 studs rather than 2, but this still seems like excessive weight on the wall. An advice on this would be appreciated. Thanks


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

I suggest that you distribute the load by putting a support on each stud for each of the twelve racks.

This would have the added benefit of keeping your stock flat and allow you to store stock shorter than the distance between supports if you don't want to install a shelf on each set of supports.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

I did this and it works quite well.

Sorry, photo won't upload but I'm storing 13 ea. 3/4" x 12" x 8' MDF shelves on one set of brackets (5 ea.16" o.c) with no problem.


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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

What kind of foundation do you have? How far would the racks extend from the wall? Will your racks be staggered to spread the load over more than two studs?

The vertical load (1320 lbs max) shouldn't be much of a problem even if your racks are all on the same studs. If you can stagger them, you'll spread the load over more studs.

If your racks aren't supported away from the wall, you might have some issues with the rotational loading trying to rotate the wall.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

*cough cough*

Need some help? :laughing:


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## Chireaux (Aug 10, 2011)

Here is a link to the racks i was thinking of getting, it would probably be better to see it them than me try to explain it. http://m.woodcraft.com/product/2083478/33847/portamate-6-shelf-wood-rack.aspx

I was going to order 4 of them so I could have 4 supports under each board ( most of my boards are 10 ft long)

Fire medic you know how much wood I have, Do you think it would tear my garage down? Lol my wife may not be too happy with that.


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## BigBull (Feb 10, 2010)

Buy 4, make sure they are secured to studs, load'm up, they'll be fine. Fyi, make sure you use good, long, heavy wood screws / lag bolts, don't go cheap here.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

The problem with those type of racks is that the load is not all vertical. Because the racks are not supported at the outer ends there is a rotational torque acting on the wall studs. I definitely would not place all of that load on only two studs.

Preferable I would use a rack that has outer end support.

George


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Agree w/ GeorgeC

Architecturally you can easily load down on a stud wall with that much weight....BUT.... It's not a down force load.
You are hanging it from the sides of the studs. It will eventually warp/bow the studs out into the room. If you have a stud with many knots, there is a chance of cracking it. 
Odds are you can do this , but it is not within a design criteria of a stud wall.

I strongly would suggest finding another method like a free standing rack setup.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If framed correctly the walls should be framed with 2x6's for a 12' wall. If the wood is held close to the wall it should hold all of the wood you could put on it. If you plan on a wider rack then the weight will be pushing out on the wall rather than vertical weight. I would support the rack on each of the studs in the section to keep the rack straight and distribute the weight. I used KV80 adjustable shelf hardware to make a rack one time putting a tract on each stud. I filled the rack full of oak and walnut to the full height of the 8' 2x4 framed wall.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

This question comes up now and then. So, this is one of the now times. Residential framing is most likely 2x4's. It wasn't stated if they are exposed or have some substrate over them. If they are exposed, where they can be seen for their quality, is a good place to start. In either case, the wall standard will likely attach to the edge of the 2x4's. It's rigidity will likely keep the 2x4 from bowing in from cantilevered weight. 

In attaching the vertical bracket, either to the edge or face of a 2x4, there stands the possibility of creating a fault in the integrity of the wood, by the insertion of a fastener. It can crack or split. 

When you get weight out away from its support, the forces transfer to the top plate of the framing. If that is secure, and is braced by a truss configuration, it's likely that the 2x4's won't have a bowing or "tilting" movement due to cantilevered weight. 

A conceivable option might be to use the brackets to make a floor standing rack, where the bottom support can be gusseted. Actually I would prefer to have each horizontal support gusseted, but that would likely decrease the vertical storage capabilities.

There is store fixture hardware, that may be less expensive, and might be worth checking out.

I have stayed at a Holiday Inn Express, but I'm not a structural engineer. 


DISCLAIMER: I just hate addressing these types of questions. 
It's a no win if the project goes forward because of the advice provided, 
and fails. An off site analysis can only qualify as a general interpretation 
of the existing conditions and what changes or additions could be successfully done. 

There are the variables of the integrity of the existing structure, the quality of the
hardware used, the proficiency of the installer and the installation. Failure of this project
as described could be due to many causes, resulting in property damage,
injury to human beings, dogs, kitty cats, and a variety of pets.










 







.


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## BigBull (Feb 10, 2010)

WHat if you attach 4 or 5, 2x6x10' across the studs horizontally. Then mount the racks (4 of them) to the 2x6's. Would that help?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yep this always comes up.*

How high is the wall?
What's it made from 2 x 4's or 2 X 6's?
Is there a double top plate?
Is the bottom most plate nailed into the top of the studs?
What's the outside sheathed with OSB? plywood? Is there additional siding on top of that?

All that is the existing structure. You can add to that or use it as is depending.....

A cantilevered load as on a shelf bracket wants to do 2 things...pull out of the material (stud) it's screwed into and pull the whole stud over from the top inward. The more you can distribute the loads/pulls the better off you'll be, in other words, use more studs and use more brackets. 

As stated above there are too many variables to give a sure fire and safe answer. When I made my lumber storage rack I had a welding shop fabricate about 8 - 2" square tube stanchions with the 2" shelf tubing welded to the vertical 2" which was then screwed into the 2 X 6" studs in the outside wall which is sheathed in plywood. I feel pretty comfortable that it won't pull out of the wall and it won't pull the wall over.

I don't know about your situation, so I won't offer any pro or con advice.  bill


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## Chireaux (Aug 10, 2011)

Thanks for the responses. After reading them all I feel like I could make the wall rack work with extra bracing etc.. But as mentioned, I think the better and easier option would be to build a free standing rack. This would eliminate the risk of damaging the wall or the Sheetrock. I also have weights on top of some of my wood to keep it from warping as it dries, so a free standing rack would work better for this as well. Oh and its probably the safer option for the kiddos running around in the garage. Thanks for helping me think this one through


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

welcome


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