# want recommendations for 8 inch table saw



## ferroequinologist (Jul 7, 2011)

*Here is why:*
I am a model railroad guy - saw is for building train layouts.
Live in an apartment with 15 amp electric service (outlets).
*Requirements:*
A quite saw would be nice...
Low enough current draw not to blow 15 amp fuse (yes, fuse).
Would cut 1"x3", 1"x4" pine or smaller.
1/2" thick max plywood - no larger than 2' x 4' sheets.
Rigid foam up to 2" thick.
*Dilemma:*
Hobby saws like Proxxon are too small.
Todays portable table saws draw too much power (amps).
*Potential solution(s):*
Craftsman 7.8 Amp 8 inch direct drive table saw 113.221610
*Recomendations?*


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

I think you will have a hard time filling that list. I think the quit part is definitely out. 

I could be wrong, maybe someone else will have good info.


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## Woodworkingkid (Jan 8, 2011)

Most portable table saws are 15 amps so you don't have to worry about blowing a fuse as long as you get 15 amp or under. Also a portable table saw is not going to be quiet it is going to be really really loud. lowes sells a porter cable 15 amp for 299.99. you don't plan on using the saw in the apartment because you would have many noise complaints and saw dust would get every were. you would be much better off getting a hobby saw because that is all you need.


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## Woodworkingkid (Jan 8, 2011)

One other thing is that for some one with out much experience ripping thin strips on a table saw can be extremely dangerous


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Your dilemma may be either the saw would be too small or too large. I would suggest a small 10" model, as there is a much better selection of blades. Some of the small hobby type saws may not cut lumber well, or be stable enough to do sheet goods.












 







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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Might look into a Hammond "glider",they're small,very well made and reasonably priced.Think they started mainly for cutting type in the print trade.Deffinately more of a model maker's saw than a general shop TS.BW


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*and for something completely different*

IronHorse rider? Welcome!

Back when...40 to 50 years ago I lived in a duplex apartment in Chicago. My table saw was a 10" Craftsman bench saw, now commonly referred to as a contractor saw. It had a 1 HP motor that was almost as heavy as the saw...:laughing:
So, find one on Craigs List for around $100.00 without a motor is OK or with a 3/4 HP motor is better cause that's all you need. You don't need a bunch of extensions on either side just a fence that will extend to 24".
The job site saws have ac/dc brush type motors that "scream". The contractor saws have induction motors that just "hum" and are very quiet when running. They still make noise when sawing of course. :yes:
There is a lot of room in front of the blade on a contractor saw, not so on a job site portable.

Now for something even more radical. 
A small Radial Arm Saw or even a standard 10" Craftsman also on Craigs List for $100 to $150.00. Yah, I know there will be screams and hollers from those who hate these and will say you can't/shouldn't rip with them, only cross cut. The new Safety Recall blade guards have hold downs and antikick back pawls which have much improved the safety. Ripping can be done safely if you understand the dynamics of the machine and that the blade entering the work tends to lift it off the table surface. When the hold down on the front of the blade (red knob) is lowered unto the work that issue is greatly minimized. Cross cutting small pieces can be done safely with a jig or hold downs,no different than a miter saw as far as safety using the Recall Guard. ** *
Please note: This is not my photo and the blade IS on backwards!!*

You can always put a smaller blade, 6 1/2" or 7 1/4" on a larger (10") saw with no issues. if the large blade is "scary". You can still get hurt if you don't use proper safety procedures, however. 

Experience is your best instructor for these or a mentor who has used one over the years. The original guards were very inadequate. :blink: bill


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## ferroequinologist (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks for your thoughts guys.
I enjoy "out of the box" suggestions - there may be a solution in there somewhere.
About noise and power consumption:
I had a chance to listen to a JET JBTS-10BT-3 10" BENCHTOP TABLE SAW - not cutting wood.
Sounds like an industrial vacuum cleaner - possibly the quitest of the benchtops (it is belt driven).
It is a 15 amp model - I am afraid initial "turn-on" currents will blow a 15 amp fuse.
I think that is why a number of manufacturers have soft start curcuits.
I suppose if I didn't blow fuses - I would be happy with the Jet.
Underwriters Laboratories (UL) states that the actual continous current (amps) shall be 80% or less of elctric service rating.
So 20 amp outlet is 16 amps, 15 amp outlet is 12 amps. There are some currently made cheap 13 amp table saws out there...
But I want to "push the envelope here" to see if some of the older (1980's - 1990's) 8 inch saws might meet my requirements except for sound levels.
With respect to the noise - I can (try to) work around my neighbors schedules.
Hoping woodworkers with experiance with these saw would comment.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Just use a "slo-blow" fuse, 15 amp*

All this is a bit confusing...you have starting amps, running amps, maximum amp, and rated HP amps. But "usually" a motor rated at 15 amps will not blow a fuse/trip a breaker unless it is stalled for a few seconds. Just make certain there are no other appliances on the circuit and you should be fine.  bill

Another "out of the box" idea... a bandsaw would do most of the cuts you require, and it's very quiet, has a lower HP motor and is safer in many regards. You can make straight and accurate cuts with a properly tuned machine and the right blade and fence. Actually, I really think this is your best solution.


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## ferroequinologist (Jul 7, 2011)

*slow blow fuses, table saws and band saws*

Okay, I am humbled - why did I not think of a slowblow fuse - being an electronics guy.

I found that there are "edison style" fuses that are slow blow that are designed for motor circuits (start-up currents) available.

Also had the chance hear a band saw - much quieter than table saw and seem to be lower in current draw - maybe my solution as an apartment dweller.


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## ferroequinologist (Jul 7, 2011)

*Ryobi 5" Portable Flooring Raw*

With respect to "out of the box" thinking.
Would the Ryobi 5" Portable Flooring saw operate similar to a table saw to meet my requirements?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*or this one by Skil*

Amazon.com: Skil 3600-02 120-Volt Flooring Saw: Home Improvement
It won't "rip" as far as I can determine and it's limited to stock 3/4" thick. It may work. I'm still thinkin' bandsaw based on what I know of your requirements. I have a 'lil 10" Craftsman that is very well made. and accurate. It was on sale for about $180.00 if I recall. 
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...3j&srccode=cii_9324560&cpncode=21-134441818-2
This is a similar saw but with a 1/2HP motor and a stand:
http://cgi.ebay.com/JET-JWBS-10OS-HEAVY-DUTY-10-BANDSAW-STAND-BAND-SAW-/200624424210


LOOK WHAT I FOUND:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Craftsman-1-3-h...695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bc1cf447 $130.00!!


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## Clouseau (Mar 22, 2009)

Try to find a used Delta 34-600 or even a 34-500. The -500 is and 8" saw and the -600 is a 9" saw. Since you are only cutting 3/4" pine you could even use 7-1/4" blades. You should be able to find one of these saws for under $100. If you are not going to bevel often, an older tilting top would also work.


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## ferroequinologist (Jul 7, 2011)

*my aquisition*

Thanks for all the thoughts.
I don't know why I hadn't considered a bandsaw.
But anyways I am the proud owner of a 14 year old Jet 12" bandsaw #JSL-12BS and "The Bandsaw Book" by Lonnie Bird.
Nice machine and great book.
I will begin to tune/update the saw in the next week or so.
Maybe I will start a new thread on my progress...


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