# refurbishing wooden planes. HELP!



## lance (Oct 20, 2009)

Hi, 
I'm new to the forum. I just inherited 3 wooden planes. One is a hybrid "Ohio Tool Co. No. 033, Auburn, NY USA", 28", second is an "H.? Nutter", 22" and last is an "L. DeForest" 27". They are all very! dry. They have been under a house in Wyoming for decades. 

Please, what would be the best way to revive these planes? 

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Lance


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## old toymaker (Mar 15, 2009)

Congrats on the inheritance. My advise is :do nothing until you know what you want to *do with them*, that decision will determine what you should *do to* them. I own several old planes and I put them to use when I can, others are for display only. At this time do not try to add oil or moisture to them, this could destroy them for your intended use.

It is OK to clean with a mild soap and water to remove surface dirt, but do not try remove the ground in dirt and oil that is into the wood. This will greatly reduce its value to any collector. Do not soak in water or get it really wet. this could damage it more.

There are several web sites specific to old tools and hand planes specifically. Try these sites: The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface,: &
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.htmlHome of fine old tools : 
Also do a search for each of you tools, you will find lots of info.
Let us know what you decide to do.


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## lance (Oct 20, 2009)

*thanks old toymaker!*

My hope is to use them. I have done nothing to them except ship them to Oregon. My plan is to separate the metal parts from each other (gently) and then bead blast or wire wheel and sharpen. The bottom of the planes are not flat (but close). Can I run them over my jointer (again, gently) to true them up? There are some cracks in the bodies so maybe it is not worth doing anything but they seem solid.

Whadda ya think?

Thanks
Lance


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

To true up the bottom I would just put some sandpaper on a flat surface( your jointer outfeed for example) and run the plane back and forth until it's true. This way you won't have to worry about the chance of ruining the planes sole due to tearout. To clean the metal parts try using evaporust. It's available at most auto parts stores and hardware stores. It's easy to use and won't destroy the plating on the metal.


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## John in Tennessee (Jun 11, 2008)

*You will destroy any collectors value that they have*

Collectors want it untouched. They call the lite rust patina...


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## lance (Oct 20, 2009)

Thanks for the continued help! I will try sanding the soles. I'm not too worried about the collectors. These planes belonged to my Great Grandmother's brother and I really want to use them. I gather that the big jointer planes aren't that valuable to collectors anyway. I guess I could just sharpen them while leaving them rusty.
Thanks again.


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## old toymaker (Mar 15, 2009)

Now that you have decided what to do with them, clean them to your satisfaction. If they were mine I would clean with boiled linseed oil and OOO steel wool. The linseed oil will act as a cleaner and pick up some of the dirt that was laid on the surface of the tools. This will act as a sealer & cleaner and leave a finish on the wood. The steel wool will take off the fuzz that will probably be there for years of storage and moisture that it was exposed to. Applying linseed oil will be a process that cannot be reversed once it is applied and has set. 
An alternative to linseed oil that will also protect the wood, add color and depth to it, and that can re reversed is to apply several coats of 2# cut shellac. It can be sanded out and waxed after it has cured for a very durable finish.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I vote for cleaning them all up and making them look pristine since you will be using them. I could care less about some bodys perceived value of a rusty unused tool. Tools were built to be used. Here's a pic of an old stanley sweetheart I cleaned up and made a new tote and handle for. I love to use it and knowing that this will be around for a long time gives me satisfaction every time I use it. Old tools are affordable and have history.


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

"The term *restoration* invokes some thoughtful arguments concerning antiques, or in our case - tools. There are some who believe that a tool should never be changed in any way, as that will destroy its integrity. There are others who feel that any change is OK as long as it makes the tool useable. I like to think that somewhere in the middle, where all the variables are taken into account, is the best place to be. What are these variables? Not more than what common sense would dictate. 
Antique tools should be in the same condition today as they were a hundred or more years ago in the hands of a prideful worker." Herb Kean
Restoring Antique Tools, 1998





































​


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I like to think of my tools as an old car. I could keep it in it's original condition or make it my own, kind of like a hotrod. If I restore a tool and even make new handles or replace the blade with say a hock blade, then it's not historically correct but it is made to work better than the original. It's all up to you whether you want a collectors item or a shop tool, since they will both work.


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## lance (Oct 20, 2009)

nice plane!


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

Julian the woodnut said:


> I like to think of my tools as an old car. I could keep it in it's original condition or make it my own, kind of like a hotrod. If I restore a tool and even make new handles or replace the blade with say a hock blade, then it's not historically correct but it is made to work better than the original. It's all up to you whether you want a collectors item or a shop tool, since they will both work.


 
I agree, if I owned a muscle car from the sixties and it had drum brakes, it would be a no brainer to put on disks. I would keep the original parts, but they would not be on the car. 

I have a couple of wooden bar clamps from my great grandfather that I believe he made in the mid/late 1800's (He was a tight cooper) I use these somewhat regularly and would not have a problem enhancing their performance for specific applications, but am hesitant to alter and not be able to go back to original, or close. On the other hand, I'd love to have a collection of wooden planes that I could use as is, or alter to suit a job that I was doing to a specific detail, rather than build a wooden plane from scratch. I also liked grinding my own shaper cutters from older ones, or from blanks. (though appreciate the 1 piece 3 wing cutters with carbide) I guess for me the closer the connection to the history, the more restraint I'd feel.:smile:


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## Ogee Fillet (Aug 20, 2009)

Lance,check out this web site. Hope it gives you an idea or two.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dAssis/art/restSecret/restSecret1.asp


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## lance (Oct 20, 2009)

*de planes, de planes!*

Dear Ogee Fillet et al,

Once again, thanks for all the advice, opinions and inspiration. 

As an owner of a '63 Ford Falcon, I totally agree with Julian and Old Skool. I haven't found time to fit those disc brakes yet but I'm still getting the right thigh workout every time I stop. 

Ogee, that was the perfect article! If the rest of y'all haven't seen it you should definitely check it out. The guy does amazing work in what looks like a very humble shop. 

I'm off to the shop with my old planes!

Thanks again,
Lance


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## Ogee Fillet (Aug 20, 2009)

Lance --- Glad the web site gave you an idea or two.
When you have redone the wooden planes and they are all lookin’ good as new , it’s time for a tune up.
One more link for you. This is one of my favorite (old tools) web sites.
Logan Cabinet Shoppe
http://logancabinetshoppe.weebly.com/1/post/2009/11/new-feature-quick-tips.html
Have fun with your old-new planes. Old hand tools are a joy to work with.

Ooop's wrong link.

http://logancabinetshoppe.weebly.com/1/archives/11-2009/1.html

Go to the pod cast-- #11


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## shopsmithtom (Nov 3, 2009)

If you've decided to use them as opposed to being a collector & keeping them on a shelf, I agree that boiled linseed oil is a good way to go. I have used that after using turpentine to clean the accumulated dirt off the plane & letting it evaporate for at least 24 hrs. I'm not a believer that using water & soap is ever good. Soap in solution will clean some of the accumulated grime, but unless you flush the soapy residue with enough water, you'll leave a residue. Neither the water flush nor the soapy residue is as compatible with the original finish as turpentine or mineral spirits. 

This is always an interesting discussion when dealing with the purist collectors and the users as to altering the item, and I don't believe there's a correct answer except to do what helps you enjoy it & makes you feel right about it.


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## Dave_G (Dec 21, 2009)

I hate to see nice old tools just "collected" and never used. If it was me, I'd clean it up and make it useable, without modifying it more than just restoring it to working order, then use it carefully. And since it is from a (presumably now deceased) relative you can remember them each time you use it.


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## schnitz (Sep 5, 2009)

I used to work with a guy who has a massive collection of old planes (he has all but 6-8 of every Stanley plane ever made IIRC). For his "restorations", he uses what's called "http://www.rustbeeter.com/". This stuff really works well, as long as you can wait for it to work it's magic. Kinda sweet smelling, and it made an old Stanley #6 corrugated bottom plane look like new in about 3 week's time. Just follow the directions.


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## scottv (Feb 21, 2010)

Lance, can you post a picture of the Auburn NY plane? I live 20 min. from Auburn NY, and I would like to see what it look likk and do you know the year? I have a Firestone plane any one know about that? Scott


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## thiggy (Feb 24, 2010)

I would think that the Nutter and DeForrest planes are just the names of former owners. It is commonplace to find an owner's name stamped on the end of wooden planes.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

If you are going to work with the planes, clean them, preserve them and sharpen them. I like mineral spirits to remove the gunk that can accumulate on the wood and metal. If you are dealing with rust and aren't concerned with color, use "Naval Jelly". It's a pink phosphoric acid. Put it on, let it work, maybe use a brass wire brush and wash it off with hot water. Dry well. My favorite material for preservation is "Ballistol". It was developed for the German Army in 1904. Intended for the wood, metal and leather of a trooper's gear. We use it at Steppingstone Museum, literally buying it by the gallon.

If you're concerned about sales, dust them off and babble about all the years of patina. We try to put the tools into working condition. If not, then we make them look as good as they did in the cabinetmaker/joiner shop and put them on display.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Additional thought. The soles of a wooden plane can be flattened by carefully(!) clamping them in a face vise and using a flat plane which is set very finely. You have to be concerned with twisting due to warpage. That will get you a display piece. Examine the mouth with the iron properly set. If it is open too widely you will get tear-out and never a fine shaving. Wooden planes can be re-mouthed relatively easily - mostly an inlay job with chisels. Use a hard dense quartersawn wood like beech, which is what your plane stock and wedge are.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

thiggy said:


> I would think that the Nutter and DeForrest planes are just the names of former owners. It is commonplace to find an owner's name stamped on the end of wooden planes.


If the names are on the toe (front) and simply stamped into the wood (incuse) they may be owner's names. The makers usually put their imprint on the top of the toe and frequently had more complex stamps.

Owners marks can be found literally everywhere on the stock (body), except the sole. They can be initials, initial and last name or full names. Depends on how much they wanted to spend to protect their investment!:thumbsup:


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