# Problem Making a Zero Clearance Insert for 45 Degrees



## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

*Problem Making a Zero Clearance Insert for 45 Degrees (Solved)*

I wanted to cut some 45 degree miters on my right-tilt Unisaw and had a blank UHMW table insert laying around. I decided to make it a dedicated zero clearance insert for when the blade is at 45 degrees.

I knew the 10" blade wouldn't clear the bottom of the insert when cranked all the way down so I did the initial cut with an 8" dado (end) blade. When I tried to put the insert on with the 10" blade, I still can't get it on. I try to slip the insert over the blade when it's raised but it won't align with the table to drop into it's recess because of the angle. When the blade is lowered all the way it still won't line up with the new slot in the insert because it sticks up too high.

Any ideas for a quick fix? I guess I could rout out the bottom of the insert on the router table but I better be accurate.
Bill


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I use a dedicated sled. :smile:


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I considered the sled idea because of it's accuracy. However, the project I'm building requires tray/drawer sides that are taller than a sled could cut. Maybe I should have referred to them as bevels rather than miters but I think you get the idea.

Bill


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I do not recall seeing ZCI for bevel cuts.

I appreciate the challenge of getting the insert to go around the tilted blade.

You may need to round as you stated, or go back to square 1 and make one which is in two parts so you can place the pieces around the blade at the cutting height.


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## JohnnyTooBad (Dec 9, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> I do not recall seeing ZCI for bevel cuts.
> 
> I appreciate the challenge of getting the insert to go around the tilted blade.
> 
> You may need to round as you stated, or go back to square 1 and make one which is in two parts so you can place the pieces around the blade at the cutting height.



^^This. How about slicing the insert in half? The only problem I see is how do you attach it to the table? Does your table use 2 screws or 4 or?? If you cut it at the screw holes, flathead screws would try to separate it. Would it stay in place with no screws? Or maybe recess it deeper and use round headed screws with a washer (lock washer), to hold it in place.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Thanks for your advice, guys! I took another look at the situation today. I found the blade was about 1/8" below the table when it was all the way down at 45 degrees. So I figured out a safe way to lower the insert onto the blade. I screwed a piece of 2x3 to the finger hole in the front of the insert. Then I hooked the insert in place on the saw by its pin in the rear, then used the 2x3 to slowly lower the insert onto the blade with the saw running. 

Obviously I was standing at the rear of the saw to do this. I had a magnetic featherboard clamped in front of the insert in case it wanted to take off. It cut very smoothly and with no problem at all. I have a healthy regard for table saws and kickback situations so I was happy this went well, as I didn't figure this method was 'by the book'.

Here's the assembly ready to cut:









Here's the bottom of the insert showing the cut and how I attached it to the board:









And here's the finished insert in place:









The only catch is that I have to have the blade all the way down to install or remove the insert - not a big deal at all.

Bill


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Thanks for the update. Happy you were able to figure out a way. It is good to know this may be possible. :thumbsup:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

dodgeboy77 said:


> I wanted to cut some 45 degree miters on my right-tilt Unisaw and had a blank UHMW table insert laying around. I decided to make it a dedicated zero clearance insert for when the blade is at 45 degrees.
> 
> I knew the 10" blade wouldn't clear the bottom of the insert when cranked all the way down so I did the initial cut with an 8" dado (end) blade. When I tried to put the insert on with the 10" blade, I still can't get it on. I try to slip the insert over the blade when it's raised but it won't align with the table to drop into it's recess because of the angle. When the blade is lowered all the way it still won't line up with the new slot in the insert because it sticks up too high.
> 
> ...


That's what I would have done since you only need an 1/8" more..OR just use a smaller diameter blade. I found a 8 1/4 X 5/8 bore blade at HD last week. I don't have an immediate use for it but now I can think of one. :yes: Thanks, Bill


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I cut the miters on my project (a letter tray) and things worked really well. I used a fine finish/plywood blade and I got nice, tight, accurate miters. I'm using relatively thin Cherry (5/16') that I resawed from 4/4 rough stock. I might have been able to do the miters using the miter gauge with the blade all the way up but I felt more comfortable doing it this way.


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## WoodandMetal (Aug 29, 2016)

dodgeboy77 said:


> I cut the miters on my project (a letter tray) and things worked really well. I used a fine finish/plywood blade and I got nice, tight, accurate miters. I'm using relatively thin Cherry (5/16') that I resawed from 4/4 rough stock. I might have been able to do the miters using the miter gauge with the blade all the way up but I felt more comfortable doing it this way.


Woodnthings,

...OR just use a smaller diameter blade

I just saw your suggestion about cutting a ZCI at an a 45 by starting with a smaller blade. Thanks for sharing that tip. I'll do that for my Deck Balluster cutting

Dave


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

WoodandMetal said:


> Woodnthings,
> 
> ...OR just use a smaller diameter blade
> 
> ...


If you are cutting a profiled baluster a zero clearance insert will make no difference except on the squared ends


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

WoodandMetal said:


> Woodnthings,
> 
> ...OR just use a smaller diameter blade
> 
> ...


If you are cutting a profiled baluster a zero clearance insert will make no difference except on the squared ends


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