# Help with CSM



## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Hi all. I finally got my new CSM. Got it put together and took a run at a walnut log my buddy gave me. The thing cut like butter. Great but one problem I am having is keeping the chain on the bar. I got a double end bar with a helper handle on one end. I think maybe the chain is too long by a few links because the adjuster on both the saw and the helper are all the way out. In this position the chain feels pretty tight however it still grows loose and hops the bar. Anyone out there have similar problems or perhaps a solution?


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Maybe 1 link, only? Heat causes the expansion. Oil more often, or is it automatic? If automatic, check to insure it's actually oiling the chain.
Hopefully, more experienced hand sill chime in. TT, Daren?


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Thanks Gene. For others that may reply further info: its a 36" bar and I got the auxiliary oiler kit and I know for sure its getting oil. A friend of mine does chainsaw carving. He says with a chain that long its no suprise that it loosened up that much


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Okay. Since nobody except Gene replied I guess it must be a stupid question. Lol. (No such thing as a stupid question. Only inquisitive idiots. Right?) Or nobody has any suggestions. So I will take a few links out of the chain and let u guys know what happens. BTW. For anyone out there who is contemplating a CSM. I must say that I am exremely happy with this one even with this minor issue


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## bugman1954 (Apr 1, 2008)

*jumping chain*

I thought when I read this yesterday morning what a goof. I've had my csm with the 54 inch double ended bar with the extra oiler for months now and have made 10 cuts without any noticable chain stretch. Yesterday I was cutting a 24 inch diam hard maple and my chain jumped the bar.. Duh, What the heck? I immediately though of this post and was dumbfounded. I adjusted the chain at the helper end of the bar and 2 min later the chain jumped again. I pulled the mill out and adjusted the chain at the motor end. Went back to cutting and 2 min later again it happened.

My observation is I might have had saw dust in the groove on the bar when I adjusted the chain. As I worked the mill back and forth through the log, when I was cutting closer to the powerhead end I would see the chain start to sling away from the bar. With so much of the bar sticking out of the other side of the log I could see the chain start to pull away. When I saw this I would back off the power a little and get more of the bar cutting the log. I finished the cut without incident. I will throughly clean the bar and retry later. I am not happy with the adjuster at the helper end of the bar. I will replace with a little longer bolt grade 8. The lug that fits through the bar should have a plate on it to ride against the bar to keep it from flopping or to have a lug that fits the slot better. One other observation is why are the adjusters under the bar when you are cutting. If I was a machinist I would modify this.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Yes. I agree that the helper could be designed better. Seems that that little barrel nut should stay square the bar. Like you said maybe a little plate. I think the bolt shoul run parallel to the bar. Perhaps using an allen bolt so clearane wasn't an issue. I never thought about using a longer bolt. Duh. Im slow like that sometimes. That'd probably be easier than removing links. As for the adjuster location. I installed my handle the other way around so they are on top.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Update: looked at the thing again. No way a different bolt is going to work. Definitely has to be a chain length issue. Gonna try to reach granberg.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Just got off the phone with Granberg. They were really helpful. He said I was the second one recently to call. They are looking into the problem. They say definitely remove the necessary link(s) for anyone else out there with this problem.


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## woodzwayz (May 5, 2011)

Can still get hot even if it's oiling properly, you're cutting a lot of wood and putting a serious load on the setup, the chain has to travel a long way before it hits air to cool. They stretch when they get hot and stay that way. If you don't have a breaker / spinner, closest chainsaw repair should. Then tighten the chain more than you think it needs to be. You shouldn't be able to pull the drive link more than half way out of the bar groove by hand. Not sure what role the double end adjuster may be playing in your chain tension. Milling is tough on chainsaws anyway you slice it (pun intended). The tighter the chain the more heat, harder on chain, bars, and powerhead. I have an ms660 and Granberg, now have an LT15 bandmill.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

woodzwayz said:


> Can still get hot even if it's oiling properly, you're cutting a lot of wood and putting a serious load on the setup, the chain has to travel a long way before it hits air to cool. They stretch when they get hot and stay that way. If you don't have a breaker / spinner, closest chainsaw repair should. Then tighten the chain more than you think it needs to be. You shouldn't be able to pull the drive link more than half way out of the bar groove by hand. Not sure what role the double end adjuster may be playing in your chain tension. Milling is tough on chainsaws anyway you slice it (pun intended). The tighter the chain the more heat, harder on chain, bars, and powerhead. I have an ms660 and Granberg, now have an LT15 bandmill.


Thanks for the advice. I wondered about the correct tension. They don't do a great job explaining that in the manuals. I am a fairly experienced woodworker but pretty much the only 2 stroke fumes I have inhaled to this point are from my weed whacker or leaf blower. Lol. Should the rack on the Granberg system be centered on the bar? What I mean is there is room to move it closer to the power head or closer to the helper handle. If it even matters. Just curious. Right now its centered.


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## woodzwayz (May 5, 2011)

I think you try and balance the weight out as best you can. So powerhead as close to the wood as possible, which means mill up tight to powerhead. Otherwise it's gonna want to tip to the powerhead side and you'll be fighting it to keep it flat on the log.


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