# Broken motor mount, craftsman table saw 315.228390



## Bob Fischer (Dec 14, 2017)

Hello, I am new to this forum. I did some searching to see if this has been addressed, but didn't find anything. If there's a thread you can point me to where my question has already been answered, that would be great.

I have a craftsman table saw model 315.228390, about 20 years old. I love the thing, but it has a broken motor mount. This is the cast light-colored piece that the motor bracket attaches to, the one that has the parallel shafts penetrating through it, marked "shafts" in the pic (stolen from another thread, I think of an older saw). As I understand it, the part is no longer made.

I tried having it welded, but the welder didn't promise it would hold, and it broke easily. So I am left with a few options, as I see it:

1) Find the part through some third party manufacturer
2) Find it through a forum where people are selling off parts of their saws
3) Have it re-welded, maybe at a different shop
4) Try to rig up a substitute part, or have one fabricated. I suspect that it has to be metal, because of the weight and vibration and so on.
5) Sell it off for parts myself and get a new saw

I understand from some reading I did that this part is an achilles heel of the saw so my problem is not unique. I'd like to hear if anyone here has successfully solved this problem, and if so how. 

Thanks!


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Check Ebay if you want an original part, they do show up, otherwise have one made up from some steel plate that will last a lifetime.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Frank is correct*

All kinds of them on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od..._nkw=Craftsman+table+saw+motor+mount&_sacat=0


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## Min Peng (May 20, 2018)

Hi guys,

I have been reading this site from time to time whenever I have troubles. And I really appreciate all the helps I have recieved by just reading the archives.

A couple days ago, I broke my craftsman 315.228390 motor mount support just like Bob, and possibly many others, did. I also searched all the possible places for the parts in vain and had to look them up on eBay. Just before I almost gave up and decided to hate myself to bend over to those eBayer for 70 bucks for a used and potentially soon-to-break again used parts, I stopped by our local woodshop that sells Sawstop. Here is the good news that I want to share with you, and hope no one will ever need to resort to buying craps from those eBayers.

Sawstop's contractor's table saw(one of the only three models of their saws), is exactly the same style as 315.228390, and possibly all the other back hanging motor style saws.

Here is the manual: http://www.sawstop.com/support/manuals/contractor-saw
Here is part order site: http://sawstop.3dcartstores.com/CNS_c_281.html

Here is a list of parts I ordered. I didn't order everything for that module as I planned to reuse some screws. 
Their website is designed very well, when you search the parts, they show pictures. The replacement part is actually better than the old one; they reinforced it.

Happy sawing. 

part name | unit price x amount | total price
--------------------------------------------------------------------
CNS-07-073 Motor Mounting Pin $2.15 x 2 $4.30
CNS-07-072 13mm E-Style Retaining Ring $0.10 x 2 $0.20
CNS-08-021 M10x19x1.45 Plastic Washer $0.45 x 1 $0.45
CNS-07-071 M6x12 Button Head Phillips Shoulder Screw	$0.40 x 1 $0.40
CNS-07-074 Belt Guard Assembly for CNS $6.00 x 1 $6.00
CNS-07-061 New CNS Motor Mounting Bracket $8.00 x 1 $8.00
CNS-07-067 Motor Mount Plate $12.00 x 1 $12.00


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## Mycrossover (May 18, 2018)

Not all ebay parts are bad. I broke the casting on the end of my Craftsman jointer that holds the fence. A poor welding job did not hold. The first one I saw on ebay and did not buy, was patched from the same failure as mine. The second one was from a later model that had been modified by the manufacturer to correct this problem. Just from the picture I could see the improvement. For 20 bucks I got an improved one on ebay. It is a crap shoot and I have been burned but sometimes it is the only game in town and there is no SawStop replacement.


Min Peng said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have been reading this site from time to time whenever I have troubles. And I really appreciate all the helps I have recieved by just reading the archives.
> 
> ...


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## P89DC (Sep 25, 2017)

Mycrossover said:


> ...For 20 bucks I got an improved one on ebay. It is a crap shoot and I have been burned but sometimes it is the only game in town....


Better odds than Vegas and when it works out I feel so cool! Besides, $20 isn't that big of a bet, what's the smallest chip on the Vegas Strip these days?


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## Masterjack (Sep 14, 2018)

Min Peng said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have been reading this site from time to time whenever I have troubles. And I really appreciate all the helps I have recieved by just reading the archives.
> 
> ...


How did it go using those parts? Did everything fit?

Thanks,

John


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## Min Peng (May 20, 2018)

Hi John,

Motor Mounting Pin turns out to be too short, so I reused the old ones.
Belt Guard has a different shape than the old one but the positions of screws are the same, so it's good.
The most important part, the Motor Mount Plate and Bracket have the same dimensions as the old ones and the plate is fortified. Fit perfectly.

I also bought the belt and hoped it will fit but it's totally wrong length. So, don't spend money on trying it.

Cheers,

Min


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## Mike Ditchen (Sep 24, 2018)

I saw this and am quite happy to see the post about the SawStop plates. Will the Craftsman Motor Mount Bracket work on the SawStop Motor Plate (the one with the metal rods)? If so, thank you s much for making my day. Or do I need to order the motor mount assembly: https://sawstop.3dcartstores.com/CNS-Motor-Mount-Bracket-Assembly_p_1387.html ?


Thanks,
Mike


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## Min Peng (May 20, 2018)

Yes, the craftsman bracket can work on SawStop motor plate. SawStop's motor mount bracket is identical to Craftsman's. Like I said, the biggest effort is to reuse the mounting rod from Craftsman's. A bit of lubricants help a lot on removing and inserting them.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

I find it very interesting that a company that is so protective of their patents just happens to use a part almost identical to another brand of tool. &#55357;&#56836;


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## Mycrossover (May 18, 2018)

Ryobi, no less (315.***). Sawstop is made in Taiwan. You can never tell who was involved in the design. Maybe the same factory made both parts. Maybe the same guy designed both saws and had the prints in the drawer.


FrankC said:


> I find it very interesting that a company that is so protective of their patents just happens to use a part almost identical to another brand of tool. &#55357;&#56836;


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## theone01 (Nov 25, 2018)

I had the same exact problem with my table saw model # 315.228390. I bought the parts mentioned above from Sawstop. They fit perfectly. Here are some before and after pics as well as part comparison.


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## Barb-Dan Cline (May 9, 2020)

Just like was posted earlier, the motor mount plate sold by saw stop fits perfectly on the Craftsman model 3151.228310 saw except don't bother getting the assembly from Saw Stop since the pins are too short so just pound out the old pins and reuse them (don't forget to loosen the two hex set screws before trying to remove the pins). And the motor mount plate by itself is only $12.00 vs $25.00 for the assembly. The motor mount plate is Part Number:CNS-07-067 on Saw Stop website http://sawstop.3dcartstores.com/Motor-Mount-Plate_p_356.html 



Hope this helps everyone. 



Dan


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## Jared Stephenson (Aug 6, 2020)

Thank you Min Peng!

Thought I'd give this a shot to replace the broken motor mounting plate on my Craftsman 113.298720 (I understand the 113. and 315. mounting plate to be the same). I asked the SawStop online chat technicians and the best they could give me was a solid "maybe". Guessing that they probably don't want to go advertising this or are concerned about liability should something unforeseen happen - can't blame them.

Yet to install, but have put the parts side by side and they are almost identical - just need a couple of set screws for the mounting pins. I don't foresee any issue with this part working as a replacement. 

Am in Canada and as Sears is no more here, I was left with the only option of buying used off ebay where they are wanting ~$80 for the part plus another ~$60 for shipping. Shipping to Canada from SawStop was still more than is rational ($26 US), but a far cheaper option overall.


Really hope this thread helps someone else too.

Jared


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## Joe in Utah (Nov 7, 2020)

Min Peng said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have been reading this site from time to time whenever I have troubles. And I really appreciate all the helps I have recieved by just reading the archives.
> 
> ...



Thank you for this information. I ordered a replacement for my broken part today. I hope that I can get it installed with minimum difficulty.


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

Joe in Utah said:


> Thank you for this information. I ordered a replacement for my broken part today. I hope that I can get it installed with minimum difficulty.


Can you get it welded or heli arcked?


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## Brainslushy (Nov 25, 2020)

Thanks for this thread everyone! I thought all hope was lost! Ordered my replacement parts today. Anyone got any advice on removing the mounting pins from the broken Craftsman mount plate? Penetrating oil and a hammer?


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

welcome to the forum for all the new guys here !!
photos will always get you the most accurate responses.
my method is penetrating oil, heat, hammer. and slowly move up the scale
with more heat and bigger hammer until something gives.

John


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## Jackwagon73 (Nov 25, 2020)

This is one of the most helpful threads I've accidentally run across...

Have the same problem. 

Price is up to $20 US for the playe, but still beats the hell out of eBay pricing!

Ordering one, now!


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## Lance H (Dec 20, 2020)

Really appreciate this thread. I just inherited an old craftsman table saw that has this exact problem. Having the same problem as others getting the old pins out. I've already brought out the pretty big hammer so...what kind of penetrating oil do you recommend?


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

welcome to the forum, Lance.
everyone has their favorite penetrants and will have different results with different problems.
my personal favorite is a 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and Acetone in a small squirt bottle and heat from a bottle torch (when appropriate) and exerted force by wrenches, pliers or hammers.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Lance H said:


> Really appreciate this thread. I just inherited an old craftsman table saw that has this exact problem. Having the same problem as others getting the old pins out. I've already brought out the pretty big hammer so...what kind of penetrating oil do you recommend?


The pins/rods are attached to the motor mounting bracket and pass through the 2 holes cast into the mount in the rear trunnion. You would probably like to get them out of the trunnion, but no need to get them out of the motor mount as I see it. I owned the same saw 25 years ago. They need to slide in the trunnion to adjust the belt tension, but are fixed at the other end in the motor mount. Striking the castings perpendicular to the rods will typically loosen them. Driving them in or out is more possible after they have been freed up.


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## Lance H (Dec 20, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> You would probably like to get them out of the trunnion, but no need to get them out of the motor mount as I see it. I owned the same saw 25 years ago. They need to slide in the trunnion to adjust the belt tension, but are fixed at the other end in the motor mount. Striking the castings perpendicular to the rods will typically loosen them.


So the mount has a giant crack that runs 90% of the way across the mount. So trying to get the pins out...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Will you replace that casting or the entire mount? The rods are not specific to that mount 5/8" . Just plain cold rolled shaft from the Home Center or Tractor Supply cut to length would work. From what others have said welding the crack is not going to work. Making a new plate seem like too much ,machining ... I donno? Getting a used mount from Ebay would be my choice if shipping isn't too excessive. The Saw Stop mount would also work as others have suggested.
Mine is like this one, older and heavy cast iron:








CRAFTSMAN TABLE SAW MOTOR MOUNT 113 | eBay


THIS ITEM IS A USED MOTOR MOUNT FOR CRAFTSMAN TABLE SAW MODEL NUMBER IS 113.29992 FITS OTHERS AS WELL.



www.ebay.com





and this one:








VINTAGE CRAFTSMAN TABLE SAW MOTOR MOUNT support assembly for model 113.29992 | eBay


Has been cleaned and checked.



www.ebay.com


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## BIZNAWICH (Mar 1, 2018)

Lance, welcome to the forum. If I may say so that's a beautiful saw...I have a 315.228410 .

Biznawich


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## Lance H (Dec 20, 2020)

BIZNAWICH said:


> Lance, welcome to the forum. If I may say so that's a beautiful saw...I have a 315.228410 .
> 
> Biznawich


Thanks! I hope I can do it proud...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

BIZNAWICH said:


> Lance, welcome to the forum. If I may say so that's a beautiful saw...I have a 315.228410 .
> Biznawich


Were is the photo showing a "beautiful" saw Bruce? I can't find it. 😕


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## Tdexterc (Jan 31, 2021)

Min Peng said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have been reading this site from time to time whenever I have troubles. And I really appreciate all the helps I have recieved by just reading the archives.
> 
> ...


Chiming in to add my appreciation for this tip in hopes that more people will come across this info. The sawstop plate is mechanically identical to the old craftsman motor mount plate and 1/3 the cost of the cheapest used parts available on eBay.


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## Dylan JC Buffum (Jun 9, 2019)

Just ordered the parts to fix my 113.299315

Will update if it works out.


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## Min Peng (May 20, 2018)

Hi guys,

I am glad many of you found it helpful. Sorry I didn't talk more about how to remove the rods.

To get the rods out, what I did was to fix the plate and rods on a vise, then I wrapped the rod with shop towels and use a plier to wiggle it out. Yes, you will need some patience and some force.

To put the rods in, it is much easier than getting it out. All you need is some lubricants, any type, I used WD40, and a ratchet bar clamp. Aim the rod to the hole and use a hammer to tap it in just a little bit so it doesn't move. Then use your ratchet bar clamp to squeeze it in. The clamp is really useful as it provides very big force to force it in. I think the bar clamp with clutches, like Bessy's, will also work perfectly. No crazy hammering is needed.


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## ssto5535 (Feb 4, 2021)

Thank you Min peng! This thread saved me a bunch of time and/or a bunch of cash! I recently purchased a 315.228390 on Craigslist and found a hairline crack while cleaning it up and getting it into good working order. Had it welded up by a friend last night but I am not sure how long it will last (hopefully until I get the replacement in). I was unwilling to spend $60 or more on eBay for a used part that will most likely break. I was about to order aluminum stock to go ahead and machine a plate myself until I stumbled across this thread.

Planning to head over to my local SawStop dealer on Saturday to check my plate against their floor model (at this point I'm certain it is a match). Will see if they can order the part in for me (currently on backorder from SawStop for $20 + $10 shipping).

First project for the saw will be putting down about 800 sq ft of LVP flooring. After that I am planning to build a farmhouse style kitchen table.


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## Min Peng (May 20, 2018)

I have an unrelated question and is off the topic. Please let me know if I should start a new discussion.

I wonder how do people who owns this table saw and other similar ones solve the problem of lacking the riving knife? The one that comes with it is really a guard that is too bulky and gets in the way a lot of times. Do you guys modify it to become a riving knife or what do you do?


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## ssto5535 (Feb 4, 2021)

Stopped by Woodcraft on Saturday. They didn't have a SawStop CNS for me to compare the plate to but they were able to order a replacement part for me for $20 + tax and no shipping fees.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Min Peng said:


> I have an unrelated question and is off the topic. Please let me know if I should start a new discussion.
> 
> I wonder how do people who owns this table saw and other similar ones solve the problem of lacking the riving knife? The one that comes with it is really a guard that is too bulky and gets in the way a lot of times. Do you guys modify it to become a riving knife or what do you do?


If it is a splitter like on the 1980's and 1990's saws like mine, I just drilled out the rivets that hold the anti-kickback pawls and the plastic guard on. That leaves only the splitter plate, about 3" tall by 7" long sticking up through the blade slot. It works very well as a splitter, the only drawback is you can not make a partial kerf cut, like a riving knife can. The wide plate keeps the workpieces lightly registered against the fence to prevent a kickback, a really important feature for safety!
The thread above has been solved, or so we are to believe.


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## Min Peng (May 20, 2018)

woodnthings said:


> If it is a splitter like on the 1980's and 1990's saws like mine, I just drilled out the rivets that hold the anti-kickback pawls and the plastic guard on. That leaves only the splitter plate, about 3" tall by 7" long sticking up through the blade slot. It works very well as a splitter, the only drawback is you can not make a partial kerf cut, like a riving knife can. The wide plate keeps the workpieces lightly registered against the fence to prevent a kickback, a really important feature for safety!
> The thread above has been solved, or so we are to believe.


I will try that! Thanks. When you said partial kerf cut, did you mean not cutting through where the blade is not visible? If yes, I understand why and yes it is its limitation.


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## Dylan JC Buffum (Jun 9, 2019)

Dylan JC Buffum said:


> Just ordered the parts to fix my 113.299315
> 
> Will update if it works out.


Shipping took a very long time, probably because of the current trade conflict with China. The parts arrived today. 

The Saw Stop belt guard fits perfectly. The motor mount and plate also look to be the right size. I repaired mine while waiting, so I probably won't replace the originals until/unless the repair seems not to hold up. 

The cast part seems to be made of some cheap metal, not the steel or iron of the original. It's very light. 

But the sheet metal part--which is the part I bent and needed to replace--appears sturdy. 

The rods are shorter than the Craftsman, and they're held in place with a set screw which seems dubious to me.


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## ssto5535 (Feb 4, 2021)

Dylan, great to hear that your replacement parts arrived and everything fits up properly! I'm still waiting on my motor mount plate. Hoping it will be here soon.

The motor mount plate on my Craftsman 315.228390 is cast Aluminum (not iron like yours). The steel rods on my motor mount plate do have set screws holding them in place, but even with the set screws loosened the rods in the motor mount plate are such a tight press fit that they cannot be easily removed. The differences between these essentially interchangeable parts is interesting.


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## ssto5535 (Feb 4, 2021)

I've been really busy lately with work and installing new flooring (~650 sq ft of LVP) in our house with the table saw, but I wanted to give an update on the Sawstop contractor saw motor mount plate. It works (as if there was any doubt)!

I received the plate from Woodcraft about 2 weeks ago (took about 3 weeks for it to ship) and I was able to swap all the hardware over to the new plate. Steel rods were not too hard to remove from the old plate, just required a little bit of patience, some WD-40, a punch, and a hammer... They were difficult to insert into the new plate, the aluminum casting seemed to be a little tighter than a press fit (it probably would have helped to ream the holes a bit, but I wanted to ensure a press fit). Pounding the steel rods in place actually shaved away some of the cast aluminum in the holes, but I was able to get them in (again, a lot of patience with a dead blow and some WD-40). Holes for the rod that allows the sheet metal plate to pivot were also slightly undersized on the casting, but I reamed them with a letter drill (I think it was an X) and they are good to go. All in all this was a great fix (and cheap) and I have a much sturdier motor mount plate. Very glad I found this thread!


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