# Router table



## 43longtime (Oct 15, 2008)

I was wondering how thick you make your router table top? Is there a thickness i should consider?

I am going to use 3/4in melmin.

It is going to be 3 feet by 2 feet and i am going to have support for the top every 12 inches. so it will be side then 12 inches then the upright support and then 12 more inches and another upright support and then the other side. 

Is that going to be good? or do i need to make the top thicker?


----------



## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

My personal choice is for something a little beefier. I would use double thickness, glued and screwed together. If you are going to use an insert to raise and lower your router, you won't have much left with just 3/4" thickness.
I use c-clamps to hold feather boards and such and I feel better with the thicker material. Though you have supports, I think the 3/4" may flex a tad if you put a lot of downward pressure on it. Not sure about that but just my thought.
Bottom line is if you are going to build, which is a great looking cabinet, why cut corners on the top?
Here's mine. It's 2 thicknesses of 3/4" baltic birch, edged with hard maple.


----------



## ~WoodChuck~ (Jan 17, 2009)

The melamine works great but I would double it up though


----------



## 43longtime (Oct 15, 2008)

Rob said:


> My personal choice is for something a little beefier. I would use double thickness, glued and screwed together. If you are going to use an insert to raise and lower your router, you won't have much left with just 3/4" thickness.
> I use c-clamps to hold feather boards and such and I feel better with the thicker material. Though you have supports, I think the 3/4" may flex a tad if you put a lot of downward pressure on it. Not sure about that but just my thought.
> Bottom line is if you are going to build, which is a great looking cabinet, why cut corners on the top?
> Here's mine. It's 2 thicknesses of 3/4" baltic birch, edged with hard maple.


I agree!!!:thumbsup: If I am going to take the time and build it i might as well not cut corners and do it right the first time. I am going to glue a peice of 3/4 in mdf to the 3/4in melmine with contact cement. That should hold it right? I am not going to use a lift. I have a rockler router table plate. I am going to just use that.

That will make a really stong top. well lets hope so. I will post pictures when i get one with the cabinet. I am going to use some kind of wood to band arount the top like you did with your maple. Think i will use oak, I should have some around somewhere.


thanks
chris


----------



## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

I would also face the edges with hardwood to hide the MDF and Melamine edges


----------



## the miz (Feb 24, 2009)

I agree with Rob. One thing you want to consider is how difficult it is to get the router in & out to change bits. It looks like Rob has a good setup with an enclosed router box for dust collection. Very nice rob, you should draw it up and sell the plans.


----------



## 43longtime (Oct 15, 2008)

the miz said:


> I agree with Rob. One thing you want to consider is how difficult it is to get the router in & out to change bits. It looks like Rob has a good setup with an enclosed router box for dust collection. Very nice rob, you should draw it up and sell the plans.


I am not worried about changing bits. I have a bent wrench for that. so bit changing wont be that big of a deal. and if it is i can take the router out of the base plate that is on the router table or i can take the router plate out. 

My cabinet I am building has a dust collection in the cabinet door. I am going to hook a shop vac to it to get the dust out of it.


----------



## TheRecklessOne (Jul 22, 2008)

One word of caution as I actually cut some melamine today. Maybe it's just the melamine from HD, but I couldn't stop tear out when cutting or drilling with either tape nor a backer, and even a combo of both. With the backer everything would look great, but then I'd run my finger down the edge and 3 to 4 small white chips would come off...BOO!


----------



## 43longtime (Oct 15, 2008)

TheRecklessOne said:


> One word of caution as I actually cut some melamine today. Maybe it's just the melamine from HD, but I couldn't stop tear out when cutting or drilling with either tape nor a backer, and even a combo of both. With the backer everything would look great, but then I'd run my finger down the edge and 3 to 4 small white chips would come off...BOO!


I hope I don't have that problem with my melamine. I got mine from hd as well.

well have to see what happens. thanks for the heads up.


Chris.


----------



## TheRecklessOne (Jul 22, 2008)

43longtime...Lying in bed last night I realized I was running the melamine face down on the piece of mdf I'm doubling it up with. With both sheets stacked together AND on top of a 3/4" panel cutting sled I don't think I raised my blade enough. 

Next time I guess I'll have to pay better attention, but that may have been part of the problem.


----------



## the miz (Feb 24, 2009)

TheRecklessOne said:


> One word of caution as I actually cut some melamine today. Maybe it's just the melamine from HD, but I couldn't stop tear out when cutting or drilling with either tape nor a backer, and even a combo of both. With the backer everything would look great, but then I'd run my finger down the edge and 3 to 4 small white chips would come off...BOO!



Unfortunately, all melamine is susceptible to this. The stuff they sell at HD is the same melamine but it is on a lower grade particle board. This makes a big difference. Good melamine board has a denser substrate than the cheap stuff.


----------



## 43longtime (Oct 15, 2008)

Do you guys think a blade with a lot of teeth on it would help stop tear out like a 90 tooth blade?


----------



## terrysumner (Oct 5, 2008)

My only suggestion would be to hinge the top by using a full length piano hinge along the back side. I did this with mine and it just made for more convenience. Oh and I also used a double thickness of melamine..

Also, as you may be able to tell, I used a Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp router. It's a great router and there's no need for a router lift with this router because it has a built in mechanism for raising or lowering it right from the top of the table through a hole.


----------



## Allthumbs27 (Dec 25, 2008)

saw a cabinet just like this on CL for $200 with router. Came back a little later to check it out again and go figure it was gone. Atlanta, Georgia area.


----------



## 43longtime (Oct 15, 2008)

terrysumner said:


> My only suggestion would be to hinge the top by using a full length piano hinge along the back side. I did this with mine and it just made for more convenience. Oh and I also used a double thickness of melamine..
> 
> Also, as you may be able to tell, I used a Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp router. It's a great router and there's no need for a router lift with this router because it has a built in mechanism for raising or lowering it right from the top of the table through a hole.


I like the idea of hinging the top. that will help me hook the top to the cabinet. 
thanks for the idea.

chris.


----------

