# Built in desk for daughter with curved drawer fronts build



## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I started this project on New years day, and figured I would get a head start before posting the build. 

Well, my new years resolution was to spend more time in the garage for many reasons. The first project that I was coaxed into doing was to build a built-in desk for my daughters room. I built her some book shelves (years ago) to hold books/toys/junk on both sides of a window, and had planned on building the desk at some point and time.... That time is now. My original plan was to just make it a straight desk that connected the two bookshelves, but I thought that might be too boring, so I decided to make it with a curved front. I also thought it would be cool if I could curve the drawer fronts as well. This is something I wouldn’t have even tried a couple years ago, but after all the inspiring work that I have seen on this site, I think I am up for the challenge. Here is a picture of the space, with a template that I made for the top, just kind of wedged in there. 











My first idea was to figure out how to make the curves... I had some pine laying around, and some scrap wood to make a bending jig, so I figured what the heck. I ripped 2" wide pine down to 3/16" thick strips on the table saw. 











This way I figured 4 of these would give me 3/4" thick, and it isn't too much to do. I then made a jig to clamp these to, and then glued them up.










There was a little spring back from my original design, but was acceptable. 










After having a made curve, I made a template for the top that would eventually be melamine (to match the bookshelves.) This was fun because the angles weren't 90 degrees, but with my convienent angle finder, it made this job quite easy. The template actual fits into the space and holds itself up with no problem. Now that is what I call a nice fit.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Now onto the design.... I originally thought about making this a face frame constructed cabinet, with curved drawer fronts to fit inside the frame. Below is a picture of the design. I wanted this to "float" (no legs) so I plan on hanging on the wall with a french cleat, as well as attach it to the bookshelves. Not sure if this will work, but I will tackle that problem later, if I need to.










The proportions are what my wife and daughter wanted, so I am going with it.... Now to figure out the problems with this design. As you see on the right side, there is a drawer that is as deep as 2 drawers. The standard depth of the drawers is 4", so that one will be 9.5" tall. I was not sure how I was going to make this drawer front. I don't have a saw capable of resawing 10". I then thought I could just make it out of a solid hunk of wood. a piece of 7/4 would be fine with the thinnest portion of the front being just under 3/4" thick. The 4" tall drawers wouldn't be a problem to do bent wood lamination. I also could make the faceframe with bent wood lamination.

I then ran across a cabinet carpenter on a jobsite a few days later, and found out that he was also their shop fabrication guy. I asked him about what he would do in that situation, and he suggested using bendable plywood to make the drawer fronts, and then skinning them before I paint them. I like this idea a little better, and since I had not used bendable plywood before, I would get to have fun with that. We chatted a few more times about the jig that I could make to glue up the drawer fronts, so now I can make it. It was also around this time that I decided to NOT make a face frame, and to make this frameless, something that I had never done before either, and I ix-nayed the bent wood lamination idea….. for now.

I had some MDF laying around, so I figured I would make the jig out of it. I decided to make one jig that would be tall enough for the previously mentioned drawer front, but also wide enough for the center drawer. I then layed out the arcs that I needed, and took into consideration the bending plywood that I would use in the jig to get the best clamping pressure. I then cut out the two pieces, and sanded them to final shape. I then rough cut 3 more sets, and then used a flush bearing bit to make them all identical.










Now to make the risers. I wanted this clamping jig to be 10" tall, so I had to make some risers to go in between each "level" After cutting them to length, I cut the appropriate angles on them so that there was the proper surface area to have equal pressure. Then I fastened them together, and am skined the faces with some bendable plywood.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well that is it for now. You guys are caught up. This weekend, I am hoping to start glueing up the drawer fronts, and start on making the carcasses for the desk itself. 

I hope you don’t mind me posting this, and I know there are more experienced woodworkers out there who have done something like this before. I will be having questions coming up regarding this, but thought I would fill you all in on my journey.


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## Tommie Hockett (Aug 26, 2012)

you got a dang good start. Keep up the good work bud.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I did finally get a lot accomplished this weekend. I started by gluing up my first drawer front, and clamping it in the “press.” I had a heck of a time trying to figure out how to hold the clamps open, until it dawned on me to use hand spring clamps.










Then I managed to spread on some glue and get the two pieces clamped up. Here are a few pics of that.



















You guys get a view of my assistant in the shop. My son wants to be in every pic, and he managed to sneak into the one above.

Then I decided to start working on the actual carcass. I managed to get the sheet of plywood cut into smaller managable pieces with the circular saw, and then finish cutting the pieces to final dimensions on the TS.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Then I cut the tongue and grooves in the various pieces of the dust frames, and those are ready to get glued up, once my clamps are free. I also have a pic of the first 2 drawer fronts that are glued up, and ready for their veneer.










I also managed to cut the dadoes in the sides that the dust frames will be attached to. I finally was also able to use my “dado blade setup jig” for the first time since I made it. It worked exactly like I expected it to. I am very happy with that jig.






































Now all I have to do is glue up another drawer front, after the current one is ready. Then I can start assembling the desk, and start making some curves. I am getting pretty excited, but then again, this stuff that I done to this point is something that I have basically done before. The challenging times are ahead.


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## Hunter (May 10, 2012)

Looks like it will be very nice. Looks like you've got a good helper too.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I didn't get as much time in the shop yesterday because of a number of reasons. We finally had some decent amount of snow, so had to take the kids sledding with their sleds they got for Christmas last year . My FIL is also in the hospital because of complications from a 10MM kidney stone, so we went and visited him. I did manage to get all my dust frames glued up, and ready for me to start cutting curves in them. I also have ALL of my drawer fronts glued up, and even have an extra one or two, just in case I mess up how I will attach them to the drawer :blink:. Still working on that.... I'm thinking of maybe doing something like a french dovetail, or a sliding dovetail. Since I have only cut ONE dovetail in my life, and I'm not sure if I can handle dovetailing into a curved surface..... .yet. 

Anyway, here is a pic of all the dust frames, the desk carcass sides, and the curved drawer fronts....


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looking great. You're doing a fine job.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

*Its actually starting to look like something!*

Well, on Sunday, I was able to get some shoptime in and get all the dustframes cut down with the curves in them. It is really starting to take shape. I basically made a template out of one of them, and traced the others with that template. A quick trip to the bandsaw to rough them out, and then off to the router with a pattern making bit to finish them off.



















It doesn’t look like much, but it was a lot of work to get them laid out, and all cut exactly the same size.


Then I was able to get more time in the shop today, and started to cut the angle on the corresponding sides to continue the curve around the front. I started by cutting the sides on the center shallow drawer, and assembling that piece. Then I dryfit the rest of the pieces together to be able to mark the corresponding angles. Here is what it looked like:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

It is really starting to take shape, and I am getting really excited. :thumbsup:

I am really hoping to get into the shop more this week, but with my daughters basketball kicking into high gear, I think I may have to wait till this weekend to actually glue everything up.

Thanks for looking.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Great job. Alot of hard work. HOw will you finish it?


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

It's looking good Fabian. Coming down to the wire.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Thanks for all your kind words of encouragement and praise.



MasterSplinter said:


> Great job. Alot of hard work. HOw will you finish it?


I am planning on finishing the drawer fronts by spraying them white, after I apply a "laminate backer" to them. I didn't know there was such a thing, but the stuff is basically what it says.... The backer that they put laminates on. The whole thing is going to be white to match the existing shelves that will surround the desk on both sides. I received an HVLP sprayer (rockler brand) as a gift for Christmas a few years ago, so I plan on this being the first thing that I spray with it. I have never sprayed anything with an HVLP before, so I am very nervous about it.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

That's great. So the backer is a prep?


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Looks like you had a solid design to start and have executed it very well. Solving those annoying little "how do I do this?" problems are half the fun and most of the battle. 

Not familiar with laminate backer. What type of retailer stocks this?

Don't sweat the HVLP. Given your propensity to practice technique, I'd say you have reason to be confident in your result. I offer this: strain your paint, when you have finished applying it, cover the project with a tent to keep the dust off. I'm convinced the cleanest cleanroom on the planet will screw up a finish.

Looking great! Looking forward to the finished product.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

MasterSplinter said:


> That's great. So the backer is a prep?


The backer is actually a laminate, without the decorative surface. It is textured though, so it should accept the paint well. It applies just like a normal laminate, with a contact adhesive and "J" roller. The bendable playwood is not really a "paint-friendly" surface, and this is what the one carpenter (that I mentioned earlier) suggested to use to make the surface smooth like the melamine shelving.

I acquired my laminate backer from one of my hardwood suppliers in the area, Owl Hardwood. They deal with Wilsonart laminates, and they can get them in 3-5' widths, and 8-12' lengths. Owl doesn't stock much, but can get any pattern in 1 day most times, and whatever size you want. When I asked for some sort of catalog or brochure, the salesman came out with a chain of over 200 samples on it. He told me just to bring it back when I was done with it.

I have never worked with the stuff, so it will be a learning experience also. I have done some regular laminate countertops, so I'm sure it is the same...... just thinner. I will post pics of it when I get to that portion of the build.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

*I could just cry right now......*

Well, I really screwed up. I will post pics in a little bit, but if you want a hint, check out post 10, the 3rd picture in there. You can see the screw up there (barely). I am so disappointed in myself right now. Oh well... I live and learn. 

Gotta go pick up one of my daughters from her orchestra practice, and then make dinner for the kids.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Today, I got home from work early, so I figured I would get some progress done on my daughters desk. I started to glue up one side of the desk, and everything was going well. I glued up the other side, and that went well also. Then I figured I would take some pics of the 3 pieces next to each other, when I saw my mistake. Here is a pic of the mistake.....











Basically, when I went to cut the angles on the front edge of the side pieces on one of the units, I had the side pieces upside down, so I cut the angles in the wrong direction. What this caused was the space for the bottom drawers to be different heights. The units you see are actually upside down from where they will actually sit. The drawer openings are for the top drawers, all of which are supposed to be the same height. 



After a few moments of trying to figure out if I had put one of the halves together wrong, I had to make a decision on what I was going to do. I finally decided to bust apart one of the pieces (the one I glued up first, but had less dustframes) and try to salvage the dust frames, hopefully making my screwup less painful to fix. Well, I ended up messing up one of the dust frames, so I will have to make another one. I don't want to try to salvage it.... 



















　
So, tomorrow, I will be working on making all the pieces to fix my mess up. I am so disgusted, and hopefully I learn from this.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Wish I could tell you I've never done any thing like that. Wish I could tell you I've only done something like that once. Wish I could tell you that after I started really identifying the top - back - outside that it ended my mistakes. I am a hobbyist so I work alone, no witnesses.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I got the left side cabinet remade today, and the glue is drying as I type this. Now onto the fun part.... the drawers. Unfortunately, I have a family get together that will take my attention all day tomorrow, so I guess the drawers will start sometime next week.

Here is what the desk should have looked like....


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

I really like the "this side up" label. If it was mine, on the other side I'd write "not this side, stupid" in red.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Roger, you made me laugh out loud, and at this time of night, it probably wasn't good..... nearly woke the kids up! Thanks for the laugh, because that is the way I felt the last couple of days...


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I didn't get much done on the desk this weekend. I did manage to get the french cleat installed on both the desk and wall, and hung it to see how it looked. My wife and daughter LOVE it, and can't wait to see the finished product.



























I am now basically just trying to figure out how I am going to do the drawers. I spent a good bit of time thinking about whether I wanted to go frameless, or attach a face frame. I think I have most of the problems figured out, and ordered the needed router accessories for my solution. I will probably start tackling that next weekend.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Still enjoying the build. Thanks for the photos. 

Probably best to wait until the project is complete before you tell your daughter that you have invited 10,000 complete strangers into her sanctuary through the miracle of photography


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I finally decide to get to work on one of the drawers for my daughters desk. I wasn’t sure how I was going to attach the sides to the drawer fronts and after much deliberation, I decided to do a sliding dovetail joint. The easiest one for me to figure out how I was going to do it would be the center drawer, since the drawer sides intersect with the drawer front at the same angle. Once I got the stuff set up, it was quite easy to make my passes at the router. I first flattened out the area where the sides were going to meet the drawer fronts. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of this after I did it. Then I took the router out and put the dovetail bit in and routed out the sliding dovetail portion. Below are the pictures of that, and where this drawer front is going to be when I have the drawer put together…..


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

That is all I got done today, mostly because 2 things happened to occupy my time. The first was I got to finally take the kiddos out to go sledding. It was the first time in 2 years for them to do that, and we had a ball. The second was that I had a part on my table saw break this morning, and I had to fix that. The crank handle that raised and lower the blade was plastic, and after 16 years, it finally broke... I decided to make a replacement out of plywood.... Its crude, but effective. I didn't want to have to wait for the replacement part to come... Not sure if I will replace it... I guess I should if I ever plan on selling the saw.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Hey I like that handle. The desk is looking fine!!


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

And I like the note about removing the insert before tilting the blade! I'm going to steal that one!

I'm impressed by the dovetails on the drawer front. how did you keep a curved part stable on the table while you make the cut?


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I don't know how I missed this thread, but I'm glad I caught up to it now. This desk is looking fantastic. I can't wait to see what you do with it next. Looking awesome.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Thanks for the kind words. Seeing as how I have never attempted anything like this with the curves and angles, I seem to spend alot of my time in the shop just scratching my head :blink::huh::icon_smile:, just trying to figure out how to make everything safely.



RogerInColorado said:


> And I like the note about removing the insert before tilting the blade! I'm going to steal that one!
> 
> I'm impressed by the dovetails on the drawer front. how did you keep a curved part stable on the table while you make the cut?


Steal away! *Now you know why I started on the center drawer*. The angles are the same on both sides, so I didn't have to do any fancy support system. You see, my router is mounted in a cast iron extension wing on my TS (you can sort of see it in the handle pics), so I have potentially have a HUGE top to work with. I just set the drawer front, cut to final dimensions on the top, and used my osbourne miter gauge to guide the drawer front thru the bit. The drawer front is pretty stiff, so no extra support was needed with this drawer front. I had to come from opposite directions, since I was doing stopped grooves, but it worked out fine. I just flipped the miter gauge around in the TS miter gauge slot to come from the opposite direction. The fun is going to be when I have to support the side drawers at all sorts of funky angles. I also purchased this to help extend the router bits if need be to get them at the correct height.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Ok, Center drawer sliding dovetails, you make it sound easy. I'll wait to hear about the side drawers. I'm really enjoying this.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I didn’t get much time in the shop on Sunday, but when I did, I finished milling my drawer stock, and then set up the router to cut the matching dovetails in the ends of the drawer sides. This was “fun” to say the least, but ended up with some nice fitting sliding DT’s. I had to do some chisel work to make the drawer sides slide in nicely into the drawer front. I also had to cut back the DT near the top on the side, so that the transition was better. What do you think?


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

That was all I got done on Sunday. Today, it is a SNOW DAY for everyone in the family, so that meant I got to keep working on this desk. I thought about what I wanted to do with the back of the drawer… I had planned on using just a locking rabbet joint, like I had done so many times before, but then I thought, “Why not try something else you have NEVER done before?” So I decided to do Thru DT’s. Now I have NEVER used them in furniture, and I have only cut ONE DT before in my life, on some scrap. I have watched a bunch of shows, but that was the extent of my experience with dovetailing.

I didn’t even know how to really lay them out, but I knew the first thing I had to do was scribe a line all the way around. Then I grabbed my bevel gauge, and set it to an angle that looked good to me. I then started to draw my DT’s on one of the sides. This is what I came up with.










After doing that one, I remembered a technique I saw on _Woodworking with Tommy Mac, _where they used a chisel to help layout the DT’s. I tried that way, and this is what I came up with:










I like this method better, but I thought I would just leave the 2 different layouts and see how they would go. Next it was off to the bandsaw to rough out the tails on the different ends of the back.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Now to the bench, and the chisel work. Here are both sides basically cut out.



















I think I need to sharpen my chisels, because the paring cuts ( I think that is what they are called) going against the grain in the back of the tails were kind of rough. 

Next I marked the pins using the cut tails, and labeled them and took them to the bandsaw to rough cut them, and then finished it off with the chisels….


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

After futzing with them and straightening out the rounded edges, and doing some filing, I got them put together. I am quite proud of them, seeing as how I haven’t done them before. What do you think?



















And here is the drawer dryfit together without the bottom. 










Unfortunately, it was at this time that I was recruited to help build a snowman outside…Who am I kidding? I needed the break and asked the kids if they wanted to do it. After we get back inside, I hope to get the bottom cut and get this baby glued up.


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## <*(((>< (Feb 24, 2010)

Nice, this is a fun project to follow! Appreciate the time you spent with all the pictures and descriptions. Looking forward to seeing your daughter sitting at her new desk! Looks great! :thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Thanks for your kinds words.

This IS a fun project, because I keep challenging myself with new methods/techniques. Sometimes I think that I am boring you guys with it, but then I get some words of encouragement, so I keep plugging along. Those DT's are really frustrating though. I am debating if I really want to do them on the rest of the drawers, but then again, I started with them, so I have to finish with them right?


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Great job so far. Cant wait to see how the finished product will be. I will be making one for my daughter soon.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I'm really enjoying this build, thanks for taking the time to show us. Those dovetails look great, I want to try some soon.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

*I ran into a little dilemma......*

I was just in my workshop planning out the drawer bottom. I knew I would need to use a rabbeting bit to cut the groove for the bottom in the curved drawer front. I currently own 1 rabbeting bit, and it cuts a groove 1/4" wide but 3/8" deep. For the drawer front, that is no problem because it is 3/4" thick, but the sides are only 1/2" thick. I guess I have these 2 questions:

1) Would it be alright to cut a groove for the bottom 3/8" deep in 1/2" stock? My gut says no... I supposed I could cut the dadoes on the TS and only make them 1/4" deep... 

2) Is there somewhere that I can purchase bearings for router bits? I would need one with a 5/16 ID and 1 3/8" OD. These bearings would be for a slot cutting set I have. It only came with one bearing though. I was just on MLCS and didn't see it, but didn't dig around too much. I did see that they have a nice rabbeting bit set on sale with a bunch of different bearings...

The "cheap" me says to use the TS.. but the "woodworking for the future" me says buy the rabbeting set....

Any help would be greatly appreciated.....


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Looking good. I've always been intimidated by dovetails. You are unintentionally encouraging.


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

could you use a temporary shim on the sides to control the depth?


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

GROOVY said:


> could you use a temporary shim on the sides to control the depth?


I like that idea. I would have to make sure that I fasten it securely... I wouldn't want it to come loose with a 24,000rpm router bit cutting away. Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Fabian! Man, I feel bad for missing this awesome build until just now. Well, I'm in the audience now and I'm quite impressed by the progress you're making. I imagine these curvy projects can be pretty tricky and time consuming. It looks like you're doing a fantastic job so far :thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I am still working on finding a solution for my drawer bottoms. I was going to use my rabbeting bit on the drawer fronts, but found out that it is too short to reach where the rabbet needs to go. I do have a slot cutter that I think will reach it, but need the bearing for it, so I ordered those yesterday, and hope to get them sometime this week.

Well, I still wanted to get something accomplished on the desk, so I figured I would start to figure out how to get the grooves cut into the side drawerfronts (DF). First I had to install the desk, and get them cut to size.










As you can see, I also marked a line on the DF that was going to show the angle the drawer side was going to intersect the DF. 

Then I had to trace the actual drawer opening on the inside of the drawer front. These drawer fronts are full overlay (I think), so I needed accurate locations. I drew new lines for the actual sides (1/8” in from actual drawer opening side). I then transferred these lines to the top and bottom. I then drew on the bottom the appropriate slot dimension that I needed for the drawer side. Then it was a matter of setting up a jig to help cut flat bottomed groove, and dovetail safely.

I knew I was going to need to use a sled for this, so made up one. Many thanks to *Woodnthings* for posting his sled build(because I used his tip about double sided tape to temporarily attach the runner) (worked like a charm). Next, I cut grooves from both edges to mark were the ½” spiral bit would be running to cut the flat bottom groove. I have two sides to this jig, because these two drawers are located on opposite sides of the center drawer, so I need to come from different directions to cut the grooves.










Now the tricky part… HOW DO I SUPPORT THE PIECE, WHEN CUTTING THE GROOVE? Well I used some more double sided tape on my layout square to determine the height that I need for a piece of wood to hold the drawer at the proper angle. 










I then ripped a chunk of scrap to the correct angle, added a “fence" to it, and came up with this.










Add some hold down clamps, and I am ready to rock!


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Now I get the bit set to proper height, and cut my grooves. 










And Voila!!! The flat bottom grooves are cut.










Now I figured out that since I have this ready to go, I would switch bits and route the sliding DT portion of the groove. Well, my DT bit was not as tall as my ½” spiral bit, so I attached my new collet bit extension, and ran into a small problem…. My jig was too close to the bit…. DOH!!!!!!!   










It was a simple fix, once I sat and pondered it :furious: for about 15 minutes. A simple rabbet in the support block, and a wider notch on the sled, and I am ready to rock once again.










Now I got the sliding DT grooves routed.









Well, that is all I got done this weekend so far. My plan is to go back into the shop, and make another sled to route the grooves and sliding DT on the other side of the drawers. Then I will try to get the rest of the drawer stock rough milled, and ready to go for next weekend….


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Those curved parts sure create some tricky obstacles. Great job coming up with solutions. :thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Those curved parts sure create some tricky obstacles. Great job coming up with solutions. :thumbsup:


Thanks, Steve... I gotta say, I did spend alot of "head-scratching" time trying to come up with solutions. Now that I know how to make these "sleds," It should be relatively easy from here on out, or at least I hope so.


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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

This has gone on long enough! I want to see a picture of the daughter with the curved drawer fronts! :huh:


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

This installment was worth waiting for. Nice recovery.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

It's been a month. I need a curved front desk fix. What's your newest challenge?


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

RogerInColorado said:


> It's been a month. I need a curved front desk fix. What's your newest challenge?


 

Thanks for asking, Roger. I have made some progress, but no new solved "challenges" that you haven't seen. I have milled the rest of the drawer stock I need, and cut up the pieces I needed for the side drawers that go on either side of the center drawer. Since I want to have the look of handcut DT's on the drawers, I made up a DT jig for my TS (posts 8-11) (post 14 is a pic of one of the drawer corners). I still have to fine tune the cuts with chisels, but it really helps to have it roughed out using a blade on the TS that is square to the work.

Since I have had to cut a bunch of bevels with this project (and others), I really didn't like the fact that I had to remove and reinstall the metal blank-off on the back of my TS, so I have been working on an improvement on my TS for that. 

I was hoping to get the drawer bottoms issue resolved before posting some more pics. I have finally acquired all the router accessories to mill the slots for the drawer bottom, so I hope to be attacking that in the very near future. 

Here is where I am at currently. Obviously, nothing is glued up yet, because I have to make the bottoms, and install them when I am glueing it up.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Looks great!


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Oh, Man! You are even hand dovetailing the backs of the drawers? That's dedication! (Or very dedicated to dovetails).


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

This is a cool build thread. Your project is turning out really nice. 

My next project involves a curved drawer. Some of your trials and tribulations are very helpful! :thumbsup:


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

nice desk, I'm eager to see it finished.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I am hoping to get some time on it this weekend.... My wife AND daughter have been waiting patiently. It is growing quite thin though.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Soooo, any progress this month?


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## Effingham (Dec 2, 2012)

Just bumping this thread, 'cause I really want to see how this spiffy project is working out.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Double post.... thought I lost it.... :yes:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

First off, I am humbled that you guys are following this thread, and are waiting to see how it turns out (as well as my wife and daughter). I feel bad that this project has been put on hold.... 

The first project that caused it to be put on hold was my entry to Bailiegh’s contest… After I was done making that for my wife, my honey-do list had grown exponentially, and with the nice weather breaking, I had to start working on the outdoor projects. I had promised to help a coworker with a deck, so I started that right after the baileigh build…. We also bought a pool last year, and I put it up in a hurry, and learned that the area I put it up in was not level… It was 3 ½ inches out of level, and almost ended up “tipping” my pool over… So this spring, I had to level out the area, and then set up the pool. I am currently building a small deck for it, and hope to have that completed this weekend. We also had a decent party to celebrate my oldest daughter from graduating 8th grade. (She had straight A’s during all three years of middle school) On top of all this, The company that I worked for the last 25 years is closing, due to the death of the owner. I have been crazy busy due to that. I have been fortunate in that a few companies have actually solicited my services, since they knew I would eventually be available when my current company closed. That was one very nice surprise, seeing as how I really didn’t have to go looking for a job.

With all that being said, All the drawer parts are sitting in a corner in my garage, waiting for me to give them the attention that they so deserve. The carcass for the desk is pretty much installed in my daughters bedroom. Currently, she is using it as a clothes hamper/clothesrack.

I PROMISE TO KEEP YOU GUYS UPDATED AS I DO PROGRESS. :yes: Unfortunately, we do have a pending family vacation coming up, so I don’t think I will be able to start up with this till Mid to late August. I hope you can wait till then.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

We'll wait for you. It sounds like you've been busy. I'm glad your job situation worked itself out.

Just don't let your daughter get too used to that carcass.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Thanks for the update! I like this project!


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## Olivier López Ch (Jan 3, 2020)

I assume the desk was never finished


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Good looking build.... I want to build a small curved floating desk for a 2 year old but will make floating and paintable. With a 2 year old it may not last with coloring and climbing a year.... Bob


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