# PSI sharpening jig set



## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

I picked up the Penn State sharpening jig, allegedly a knockoff of the Wolverine system. What I am having trouble with is the Finger Nail jig as it does not appear to really be the same as the Wolverine. I am just not sure how best to set this up. Of the videos I've looked up and other related information, they show setting up the gouge to be protruding only like 2 inches or so from the jig, then have the "V" jig about 6" from the wheel face. I've found that if I do this, the overall geometry just doesn't seem to work out. I have a 8" grinder and feel pretty confident I have everything set up appropriately. Is there anyone else that has this jig that can share their experience?

Penn State Sharpening Set


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## WeekendTurner (May 27, 2011)

I've worked with that version before. It's OK, but will not stand up as well as the wolverine.

My advice:

The protrusion distance is not critical, but make sure it is always the same. Use a section of your finger or make a jig (drill some wood) to make sure each time you use it you have the same length of steel sticking out. About 2 inches is fine, as long as next time it is the same "about 2 inches."

As for distance from the wheel, there are a lot of options & views on this and it has to do with the angle at which you've set the jig itself.

Let's assume you set it at about the middle..... (Grinder OFF)

1. With the tool lying against the wheel straight on, slide the arm in/out until you have complete bevel contact with the wheel. Lock the arm.
2. Rotate to the tool/jig to one side, like you are sharpening the full wing. If the side bevel is still in full contact, you should be good to go.

If not, try another angle setting on the jig itself and repeat the above steps 1 & 2.


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

I used it on a Marples gouge and it is way more than 2", more like 5" or so. This was after fiddling around with it for quite a while to try and come up with a setting that seemed appropriate, though no amount of adjustment I tried replicated the OEM grind throughout the full arc. I finally just decided it was good enough and went at it.

I also noticed that the jig seemed like it was assembled backwards from the factory, at least it appeared that way. What I mean is the locking handled was on the opposite side of what seemed like the right side. The problem is, I couldn't find enough internet data/photos to corroborate what is "correct" and the included instructions are not definitive. I realize it could be used either way, but this first threw me off and I think I was using it backwards at first. Again, not enough data I could find to prove it either way. The website picture shows on thing, the instructions another so I am still not entirely sure of it's intended configuration.


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## WeekendTurner (May 27, 2011)

No, the 2-inch measure is how far the point of your tool should stick out from the fingernail jig itself. This is your starting measurement and will be your constant. It's OK if it's not exaclty 2", but if it's closer to 1 3/4, make sure it's the same next time.


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Yes, I am speaking of the measurement from the jig. When I set it up about 2" from the jig, just never could get the whole thing to work out right. I assume it's just me not know how it all should work together, but so far hasn't been very intuitive.


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## 9thousandfeet (Dec 28, 2014)

ChiknNutz said:


> The website picture shows on thing, the instructions another so I am still not entirely sure of it's intended configuration.


 I just looked at the instructions online, and the way it's shown (Fig D, below) looks totally messed up to me.
In that picture it looks like they have the whole thing ass-backwards.

The inset photo on the Penn State product description on the other hand, in the link which you provide in your first comment, looks to me much more like the setup of how these kinds of jigs work .


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Hence my confusion 8-s


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## 9thousandfeet (Dec 28, 2014)

Yeah, if you've not used this kind of jig before, those "instructions" would confuse anyone.

Be sure to arrange some device, a hole drilled through a piece of wood 2" (say) long will work, so that the tool tip protrudes exactly the same amount from the jig every time, and you'll figure it out.

There are dozens of videos on YouTube showing the fundamentals of how these rascals work. Mostly they discuss the Oneway system, but the prinicples involved are exactly the same. Here's one.

A good quality grinding wheel, carefully dressed and balanced, along with a light touch as you sharpen, should get you an edge that's a pleasure to turn with.

Interestingly, you'll find different turners approach the setup different ways. If you think about it, you'll realize that the movement of the "pocket" in and out, toward and away from the grinder, exerts much more influence on the "side angle" than changing the angle on the jig itself does.

In fact, adjusting the jig angle exerts very little influence on the "side angle" at all, so for the initial setup it makes sense to me to adjust the pocket first, to give me something close to the side angle I want, then adjust the jig angle to give me the "nose angle" I'm looking for.

Not everyone looks at it that way though, and so they go at it differently. What matters is that you end up where you want to be.


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## thenodemaster (Jun 14, 2015)

My biggest problem with that jig is keeping the darn thing rotating through the range smoothly and evenly. I got that two inch wood chunk part and was glad I looked things up before even looking at the manual. My hands aren't the most steady out there when trying to do something that needs controlled rotating motion through the arc this does. I do like the rounded bar attachment PSI just came out with so you could use the tormek fingernail jig on the grinder with the PSI setup. But, just bought a Grizzly G0694 lathe and appropriate accoutrements after outgrowing/wearing out my Harbor Freight Frankenlathe. It was originally 3/4 HP, but I got a hold of their 2HP dust collector motor and know some machinist who helped with the 2:1 reduction. Lathe actually paid for itself after about a year and a half of stuff sold.


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## WeekendTurner (May 27, 2011)

The same steady hand/controlled movements needed for turning are required for effective sharpening. The jig photo in this thread is indeed set up backwards; it's amazing anyone would even try to sharpen like that as it provides no chance of stability.

I wrote a manual a few years ago for a class I was teaching at TechShop, while it existed in Raleigh. I built it around that PSI jig.

Perhaps you will find the steps about the fingernail grind helpful. It is very basic as it was meant for beginners.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nhk0iahdu8kul7n/TSRDU%20Wood%20Lathe%20Sharpening%20SBU%201.1.pdf?dl=0


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Thank you WeekendTurner, this is good information.


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