# Router table price



## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I decided to make a router table in school in welding. I have to make it out I all steel. I came up with plans it's a cabinet on the bottom with a chip box two compartments beside it and one under it. I priced everything out it came out close to 400 bucks with all the sheet metal and the mdf top laminated with a rockler router plate and t tracks for the mdf fence to slide on. Do you think this is to expensive? How much has your home made router tables cost you If you don't mind saying? Thanks for any replies.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

It depends on the design, choice of router mounting plate and other hardware. I'm in the process of finishing up mine, a Norm Abrams style cabinet made of 3/4" oak ply containing seven small bit size drawers and three larger full extension drawers. I easily have $400 invested in it with the Woodpeckers mounting plate, drawer glides, wood, fence hardware, casters, dust collection hardware, etc...


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Here are the plans. Sorry if the quality isn't great. It's going to be made out of 1.5" and 1" angle iron and 16 gauge sheet metal. With peach tree mini t tracks and a rockler router plate. I'm going to make the chip box have a plexi glass front so I can see in there. The compartment door faces are going to be made out of wood. I have yet to determine that. If you have any suggestions I would love them.


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## Gregad (Jan 5, 2014)

I am just finishing up a router table. 36" x 22" 1 1/2" thick desk top. Particle board and laminate. Nice flat and smooth. $7 at a Habitat restore. Woodpecker 3/8" aluminum plate off ebay, slightly used, (Barely) and bearing mortising bit & shipping. $80 Fence is solid oak with Birch slider plates. (free from local lumber yard scrap) Stand is 2" x 4" pine framing. $12. I even found a flexible neck light (Free) Incra Fence T-track and miter tracks, from Woodcraft, $30 Bolts and finish (Linseed oil) $20

So all together, I have around $150 into my table. I tried it out tonight and it is perfect for what I will ever need.


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## Gregad (Jan 5, 2014)

jbwhitford Another thing to think about. Go around to metal shops. Most will give you metal for school projects. Lumber yards or woodworking shops. 
My son built a sand blasting cabinet, large one in welding class. All the metal he got for free from a couple of small metal working shops. He even got it painted for free at a powder coat shop. He entered it in Lincoln Welding Co. contest and won 3rd place nationals. His cost for things he couldn't get for free, $50.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I plan on having somewhere between 400-550 in my table including the lift when i'm all done. 

2 sheets of 3/4 plywood - 90
1 sheet of mdf - 35
1 sheet of Laminate - 25
1 sheet of drawer material - 50 
Drawer slides - 50
Hinges - 20
Plexiglass - 10
Casters - 20
Hardwood edging - 50
Lift - 190

So 400 doesn't seem excessive.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Gregad said:


> jbwhitford Another thing to think about. Go around to metal shops. Most will give you metal for school projects. Lumber yards or woodworking shops. My son built a sand blasting cabinet, large one in welding class. All the metal he got for free from a couple of small metal working shops. He even got it painted for free at a powder coat shop. He entered it in Lincoln Welding Co. contest and won 3rd place nationals. His cost for things he couldn't get for free, $50.


The school requires us to buy the metal for the project through the school or I would try what you said. I guess I'm just torn between what I really want and what I can afford. I have te price sheet at home for all my costs I'll post them when I get back.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

What do you think I should use for the cabinet doors plywood or a hardwood?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Totally up to you....plywood would be cheaper, hardwood would look better.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I was just worried about the hardwood warping because i would have to glue 6 inch wide pieces together


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## Gregad (Jan 5, 2014)

Try to upload a few pictures for you of what I just built.
Can you just build the frame at school and enclose it in after you get it home?


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

If done properly a hardwood drawer front shouldn't warp. I used plywood for my drawer fronts. Hardwood was used for the face frame and will be used for the banding on the top. Still waiting for my mounting plate and track to come in to do the top of mine. I actually started this project almost a year ago as my first woodworking project. Stopped after I got the bare carcass done to do other projects and just now getting around to finishing it. My drawer fronts paid dearly for my early mistakes in squaring the cabinet carcass, but it's shop furniture :thumbsup:


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

Gregad said:


> Try to upload a few pictures for you of what I just built.
> Can you just build the frame at school and enclose it in after you get it home?


*NICE WORK !!!*

Don't suppose you posted a "build thread" somewhere on the Forum? :huh:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I cut the metal for it all today and submitted the bill sheet to the school so it's final. I'll post pictures of how it's coming along when I work on it everyday if you guys want.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It'll be something close to what Brandon posted but metal with hardwood doors I have yet to decided what wood to use but I'll cross that road when I come to it.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

I for one and I'm sure many others would love to see the progress pictures.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'll post when I get the frame together next week.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I tacked the frame together today there is three sections. I have to fully weld it tomorrow and grind it down smooth before I put the legs on. I might get them on by Wednesday. The top section has holes in it to mount the mdf. My router plate insert is supposed to be here by Wednesday. And the t tracks are supposed to be here by Friday I think. I'll post more as I go along.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

Looking good. Interesting build.

I'm jealous of your delivery time on the track. Both my dad and I have had trouble getting track. He had to wait over two weeks when he ordered his from Rockler a while back; I'm waiting for 2 1/2 weeks now from Woodpeckers. I finally told them to ship me my plate so I could have at least something tangible from the order they already charged me for. :huh:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I ordered it on amazon. I think it's a off brand but still I was going to off rockler but there were back ordered for awhile. It's called peach tree and it's 20 buck per 48 inches.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

I wonder if Rockler and Woodpeckers have the same source for their track then. Funnily enough, I got an email about five minutes ago telling me my track shipped. I wasn't expecting it to be shipped out for at least another week according to what they told me last week.

Good luck with the rest of your build.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks and good luck on yours.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> I decided to make a router table in school in welding. I have to make it out I all steel. I came up with plans it's a cabinet on the bottom with a chip box two compartments beside it and one under it. I priced everything out it came out close to 400 bucks with all the sheet metal and the mdf top laminated with a rockler router plate and t tracks for the mdf fence to slide on. Do you think this is to expensive? How much has your home made router tables cost you If you don't mind saying? Thanks for any replies.


I wouldn't make it using any metal. Too hard to work with and change or add to it. Build one out of wood and you will out grow it or want something different long before it wares out. Put it on good lockable casters so you can roll it out of the way. There will be times when you won't use it for months. 

I built one for pennies using MDF. Spent more money on screws, nuts and bolts. There are some really good plans on line and I don't recall any that used metal.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> I wouldn't make it using any metal. Too hard to work with and change or add to it. Build one out of wood and you will out grow it or want something different long before it wares out. Put it on good lockable casters so you can roll it out of the way. There will be times when you won't use it for months.
> 
> I built one for pennies using MDF. Spent more money on screws, nuts and bolts. There are some really good plans on line and I don't recall any that used metal.
> 
> ...


Okay I Reread your post. Make the base out of metal.

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It would've been too late anyways I started it today and posted the pictures of the frame. I'm going to buy locking casters for sure. But thanks for your opinion. I appreciate it. I'm going to still integrate wood into it. So it won't be all metal.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

jbwhitford said:


> The school requires us to buy the metal for the project through the school or I would try what you said. I guess I'm just torn between what I really want and what I can afford. I have te price sheet at home for all my costs I'll post them when I get back.


I think that I could build an excellent router table for much less than $400.

Regardless, have you thought of the weight of making an all steel unit? For me that would be the factor that would rule it out.

George


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

We have heavier machines that wheel around on casters well. Plus I don't think he's doing the entire thing in metal; he's already mentioned wooden drawer fronts.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'm doing the top out of mdf and the cabinet front out of hardwood an one with hardwood and plexi glass.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I have thought about weight and I imagine it's going to be pretty heavy. But it will last forever.


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

A 16 ga panel weighs less than the same size piece of 3/4" plywood.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

GeorgeC said:


> I think that I could build an excellent router table for much less than $400. Regardless, have you thought of the weight of making an all steel unit? For me that would be the factor that would rule it out. George


One would think that....except I'm building mine out of birch ply, MDF and laminate and I'll be over 500 when I'm done.

Also as pointed out, the frame may be heavier but the panels will be much lighter.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I think it'll be about the same in the end. The biggest problem I'll have is getting it into my basement. That'll be tough.


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

jbwhitford said:


> I think it'll be about the same in the end. The biggest problem I'll have is getting it into my basement. That'll be tough.


Gravity should help


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

Bastien said:


> Gravity should help


LOL. It's getting it OUT of your basement that will be a problem.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'll probably have to have my dad borrow a furniture dolly.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

BrandonD369 said:


> LOL. It's getting it OUT of your basement that will be a problem.


Yeah. That too. Haha.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

BrandonD369 said:


> We have heavier machines that wheel around on casters well. Plus I don't think he's doing the entire thing in metal; he's already mentioned wooden drawer fronts.


Yes, but those machines need to be made of the heavier metal. A router table does not. Why complicate something that is perfectly good in it normal material makeup.

George


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I dunno, have you ever looked at the cast iron topped steel cabinet router table at a rockler....I'd take one in a heartbeat. They're sturdy, strong, and stable.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Got my kreg router plate in the mail today. The have a starting pin on that I don't know what That is for. I have to drill it out in school because there is a drill press. And there isn't really any reason to debate because I've already started to make it. Haha. But I'm glad everyone is getting into this thread and discussing. Thank you.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Before you drill anything out....did you consult the manual?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I don't plan on doing it anytime soon probably closer to when I have the top built but yes I did read the instructions.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

The starting pin is used when you are routing with a bit that has a guide bearing and you aren't using the fence. It gives you something to brace the workpiece against. 

I can see a hole in the blue part of the plate that looks to be threaded. Looks like that's where it goes.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

If its on good casters. The weight will be your friend when I comes to a smooth cut.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks captain awesome. I figured it was something like that thanks for reassuring me. And yeah the weight should be a good factor as long as I get the right casters.


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

Another good reason to build it from steel is, he's in a metal shop class. I hope you get an A


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

No kidding. Sounds like the school is footing the bill, or part of it anyway. I'd try to come up with something to make for my wood shop too :laughing:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Bastien said:


> Another good reason to build it from steel is, he's in a metal shop class. I hope you get an A


I got an A on the table I built. So I should be able I get an A because I take it pretty seriously and make my work the bet I can.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I got the mini t track in the mail today 2x48in. Pleased that what I ordered came so fast. That was a large chunk of what I had to pay for outside the bill the school will send for the metal. Also got the legs welded in to the bottom frame I posted pictures of earlier.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> I got an A on the table I built. So I should be able I get an A because I take it pretty seriously and make my work the bet I can.


Good for you. I hot A's in metal shop too if only for applying myself and staying away from the losers making pot pipes.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

We have a program that let's us go to a trade school while still going to normal classes and getting a diploma. I'm going to go for welding for the last two years of high school and will come out with my welding certification for the state of Ohio. So I can get a job right out of high school.


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

jbwhitford said:


> We have a program that let's us go to a trade school while still going to normal classes and getting a diploma. I'm going to go for welding for the last two years of high school and will come out with my welding certification for the state of Ohio. So I can get a job right out of high school.


What will you be taking in college?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'm either just going to use the certification and go work on the gas and oil lines in PA for 25-30 dollars an hour or go to Ohio State for welding engineering.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Today's progress Monday I will put the top frame in.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

mark_s said:


> Bosch RA1181 Benchtop Router Table
> $358.75 Normal price
> $183.49 Today
> Order in the next 30 hours and get it by Monday. Mar 3.
> ...


Mark
Have you ever built your own router table. Even the least fancy shop built are far better than the store bought kind. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Looks like you have it all under control, I personally can see no reason not to have a metal frame, and many reasons to go that route. Too many woodworkers forget that there are other products besides wood that can be used and in many cases is it a better way to go.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

FrankC said:


> Looks like you have it all under control, I personally can see no reason not to have a metal frame, and many reasons to go that route. Too many woodworkers forget that there are other products besides wood that can be used and in many cases is it a better way to go.


But we like making everything out of wood. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> But we like making everything out of wood.
> 
> Al
> 
> Nails only hold themselves.


As they say, "If you only have a hammer, everything looks like a nail".:laughing:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Got the top section on now it is a large rectangular prism.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> Got the top section on now it is a large rectangular prism.


Keep in mind your going to want to stand right next to this thing and you'll need some place for your toes to go.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'm putting licking casters on it. And the top will over hang an inch and a half all the way around.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

*locking


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> I'm putting licking casters on it. And the top will over hang an inch and a half all the way around.


Good on the overhang. You need it to make clamping easier. My fence clamps on my overhang.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Gregad (Jan 5, 2014)

jbwhitford said:


> I'm either just going to use the certification and go work on the gas and oil lines in PA for 25-30 dollars an hour or go to Ohio State for welding engineering.


My son that won The Lincoln Institute contest, got a job at a small company's foundry technology. The manager whom hired him found him through his Tech Center like yours. Although it took several years to work his skills up the ladder, He is now the company's Corporate maintenance manager for the entire company, whom over sees maintenance over 16 plants world wide and just got promoted to the Chief Operations manager of a major development their company invented. He makes a high 6 digit salary now. More than I ever dreamed of. He never did make it to college. He uses his brain to get promotions. He can weld anything and loves welding.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Good on the overhang. You need it to make clamping easier. My fence clamps on my overhang. Al Nails only hold themselves.


My fence will run in two t tracks do it it's completely adjustable. And will have two t tracks on it so I can slide it closer and farther away depending in the size of the bit.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Bought som nice locking swivel casters for 8 dollars a piece...24 dollars later. They better last forever haha.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> My fence will run in two t tracks do it it's completely adjustable. And will have two t tracks on it so I can slide it closer and farther away depending in the size of the bit.


I would for go all the T tracks. Maybe one if you want to use a feather board. But hey go for it.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

Nice work. I like seeing the progress.

I'm in the camp of using t-tracks, but honestly don't have much experience. I would think it would be easier to square up the fence with a t-track system and you don't have to deal with additional clamps. The router table fence I'm in the process of building will be mounted on t-tracks in the table and have a t-track mounted on a piece above the split sliding fence for feather boards, guard, etc. My table will have a combo t-track and miter in it, mainly because I wanted the miter slot just in case and it was a small price difference between it and the combo.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I didn't buy the miter slot because I felt like I would hardly use it and if it comes to it I could add one to it. I haven't started the top yet I'm waiting until I absolutely have to make it. Both my t track and router plate are sitting in there box in my room. When I said I spent 24 dollars I meant 32 24 was just stuck in my head for some reason. The casters lock and when you press the lock the swivel feature locks too.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Excellent choice on the casters. Duel lock is best. Keep plugging away. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I bought the 3/4 mdf how would you guys glue that together. What glue would you use how would you clamp/ apply pressure. The tops going to be 3ft by 26" and 1.5". Sorry I haven't posted in awhile the weekend came and can't work on it because it's at school. And I almost got the plates for the casters welded on so I should have the casters on tomorrow. And I will take a picture.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

I just glued up mine last weekend, or the weekend before. I used Titebond II (although I think any of the I, II, or III will work fine along with many other glue types.) Since MDF is pretty darn flat and they're solid pieces, I did not worry much about using cauls. I just clamped the heck out of it all around the edges. It came out fine, I've already laminated it, edged it with oak, and cut & installed all the track. I am waiting for an MDF template from Woodpeckers to cut the hole for the plate using a pattern bit. I planned on making my own template but my plate has rounded corners which complicates it a bit, and I have a couple other projects going on right now so I'd rather it "just work" the first time for the $13 it cost me.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I just cut the 4x8 sheet on with my dad on our portable table saw that was interesting. I'm definitely going to have to put something on the edges like oak. I just glued it up a couple of minutes ago. I used titebond II. Decided I need to invest in a small paint roller for thigs like applying glue to large surfaces. How did you cut the slots for the t track? And did you do this before or after laminating it?


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

I save old gift cards for spreading glue. I used it for spreading the contact cement when laminating it too. 

I used a 3/4 straight bit in my router against a straight edge as a fence. I would measure your track to determine the correct bit size and cut a slot in some scrap to test the fit and get the depth correct first. I cut it after laminating. 

The bit will leave a round end. I've seen a number of DIY tables where they left them like this. I don't care for the look of that so I squared it with a chisel. If you do that you need to use a sharp chisel and score the edges of the laminate before really digging in. Go slow or you risk cracking the laminate.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> I just cut the 4x8 sheet on with my dad on our portable table saw that was interesting. I'm definitely going to have to put something on the edges like oak. I just glued it up a couple of minutes ago. I used titebond II. Decided I need to invest in a small paint roller for thigs like applying glue to large surfaces. How did you cut the slots for the t track? And did you do this before or after laminating it?


Try to use something other than oak. It has too much movement and may be problematic down the road. Maple would be best and is hard as a rock.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Brandon- I never thought about using an old gift card that's a good idea. The t track came with the measurements for it so I just have to go out and buy a straight bit for it. And I probably will square it off like you did also. Thanks for the tips. 

Al- thanks. I'll definitely go with the maple then. In definitely going to have to make a trip to the lumber mill soon. I need to get the cabinet doors I'm making for this too when I go. 

This is why I love this forum I get responses about what I don't know so quickly. You guys are awesome.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

Yes, this forum has proved invaluable to me. This topic has helped motivate me to finish my own router table that I started about a year ago :laughing:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Got the casters on rolls like a dream. Got the laminate for it from the school. It's a blue green. I'll post a picture later when I get it.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

Looking good :thumbsup:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Here's the laminate and top. Got it from the wood hop at school. I know it's an odd color but I'm a bit odd so oh well. Snowing a lot here. Might finish carving the turtles I promised my sister months ago.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Cut the sheet metal today. I have to weld it in probably this week. After that I have to put in the middle shelf and install the metal for the chip box.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Forgot to post the picture.


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## davehuss (Feb 14, 2012)

*Table saws*

I've decided to buy the Go555 bandsaw, but I got to play with my sons Ridgid 4512 saw, and it seems like a nice saw. Cost is around $600.00. Is the Grizzly 1023 really worth $1000.00 more? One of the things I'm thinking about is setup and adjusting. What I'd like to know, is if you had the money for either saw, which would you buy.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

David Huss said:


> I've decided to buy the Go555 bandsaw, but I got to play with my sons Ridgid 4512 saw, and it seems like a nice saw. Cost is around $600.00. Is the Grizzly 1023 really worth $1000.00 more? One of the things I'm thinking about is setup and adjusting. What I'd like to know, is if you had the money for either saw, which would you buy.


David....I think you put this in the wrong thread


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

The cabinet is looking great. Will you end up painting it?

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel with my table. I'll be applying a 2nd coat of finish on it tonight. Unfortunately the wood framed plexiglass door dropped during the first coat and broke clean at two of the mitered corners. Plexiglass looks okay. I guess it makes it easier for me to finish them... but it just means one more thing to (re)do. I know I won't be making any picture frames without some sort of corner reinforcement now, like splines.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'll definitely end up painting it. The color is debate able at the moment. If it isn't that expensive I would love I powder coat it. I had to work on lacrosse goals for the school today so no new progress. I'm going to have to punch a lot of holes in the sheet metal and rosette it in this week. I'm also going to do the plexiglass door. Just haven't got that far yet.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Sorry I haven't posted in awhile there was a certain dilemma between the way I had to drill the holes in the sheet metal for the rosettes. My teacher brought in a air powered hole punch that happened to stop working while I was using it. 

I lost a whole day by watching him trying to fix it. then he proceeded to tell me that it was from harbor freight which he tells us all the time not to buy their products....

I then had to switch to drilling it out with a hand drill fun. 

Then today he returned the broken on and got another one. So I continued and finished punching my holes with the hole punch. 

Now I have to rosette about 300+ holes. Yay. I'll post pictures of it after it is rosetted in.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I finally got the maple for the banding. Planed it and cut it. I fought with the weather all the way through the process.

Now should I just glue it around the mdf or should I use glue and pins from a brad nailer? Also should I miter where the maple meets on the outside or should I just but them up against each other. All help is appreciated. Thanks.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I just glued mine and it is on solid....pretty sure it will take an act of god to come off.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks
I'm going to glue it up tonight when I get home.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Ran into an issue. I mitered the edges on the boards and because I don't have long enough clamps and I am lacking funds at the moment I decided to use a brad nailer to put a few nails in it along with glue. Well after the nails not going in fully and the nailer leaving marks in the maple. I wasn't happy. I only attached the two short sides this way. 

Last night I test fit it all and all the mitered edges for along the mdf top and all went together. But for whatever reason when I went to do this the two long sides are too short and don't meet the short sides by about and 1/8 or two. Is there anything I can do other than recut more maple?


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

Usually you can fill small gaps with glue and sawdust but that looks to be too big for that. I would try cutting a sliver of maple to fit into the gap, glue it in and sand flush.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks I'll try that. Hopefully it works.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Make it look like you meant to do that and get some thin pieces of walnut or an other contrasting wood. Put one in each corner and make it an accent piece. No one except you (and everybody reading this thread:laughing will ever know otherwise.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

That's a good idea.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Do you think white oak would work?


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

Most any hardwood would work there, I'd think. White oak next to maple might not provide enough contrast to look like it was intentional though. If you have any scrap maple, I'd use it before white oak. In the end it is shop furniture though, and the goal of that hardwood banding it to prevent damage to the edges of the MDF and laminate top.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Visit the woodshop at your school tomorrow and see what kind of scraps they might have laying around. All it would take is one or two small scraps to get what you need.

Brandon is correct, anything would fill in the space, but you need to use something with contrast to make it look intentional.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

That's what I was thinking. I hope they have something that will contrast it. But if I can't find anything I'll just use maple.


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## Icarus216 (Mar 31, 2014)

My dad has a saying for situations like those. Maybe it's more popular but he's where I got it;

"Either get it exact or miss by a mile. Both look intentional."

I find myself using that adage a lot when woodworking. Guess that speaks to my lack of skill. Haha


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

That's a good saying. I'm sure that'll apply to me as I continue my work on this and many other projects.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> Ran into an issue. I mitered the edges on the boards and because I don't have long enough clamps and I am lacking funds at the moment I decided to use a brad nailer to put a few nails in it along with glue. Well after the nails not going in fully and the nailer leaving marks in the maple. I wasn't happy. I only attached the two short sides this way.
> 
> Last night I test fit it all and all the mitered edges for along the mdf top and all went together. But for whatever reason when I went to do this the two long sides are too short and don't meet the short sides by about and 1/8 or two. Is there anything I can do other than recut more maple?


Can you just shorten the top? I'd cut a sliver off on the table saw then nibble the 45s till it fits.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

No I nailed and glued the edge pieces on already and I don't want to have to take them off. I'm going to try to get some walnut from school today from the wood shop teacher.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

jb, I don't know what your timeline is on this project but if you are willing to wait, just PM me your address and I'll get some walnut in the mail to you tomorrow. It really won't take much at all, and I'm sure I've got some lying around that will work. Just let me know.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

If I can't get any today in the wood shop I'll let you know. Thanks for the gratuitous offer.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Captain awesome, Would you like me to pay for the shipping? I don't know how expensive it would be but if it is over 10 dollars I don't think it would be worth it.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> Captain awesome, Would you like me to pay for the shipping? I don't know how expensive it would be but if it is over 10 dollars I don't think it would be worth it.


I'll take a look at prices tonight. Anyone here do the mallet swap? I'm curious as to how they shipped them. Was it a flat rate box?

Jb, what zip code would I be shipping to?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

44512 Boardman/Youngstown Ohio let me know what it would cost and we can go from there.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> 44512 Boardman/Youngstown Ohio let me know what it would cost and we can go from there.


I just looked it up.

Small Box: $5.80
8 5/8" x 5 5/8" x 1 5/8"

Medium Box: $12.35
13-5/8" x 11-7/8" x 3-3/8" or 11" x 8-1/2" x 5-1/2"

Do some math and tell me how many pieces you need and their rough dimensions. If you don't need a piece any bigger than what will fit in the small box, I can cut it to exactly that size or cut multiple pieces that will each work for you and fill the box that way. Also PM me your address, or the school's address, whichever one you want it shipped to.

The wife has agreed to ship it for me tomorrow while I'm at work so just let me know. Don't worry about the shipping cost. One day you'll get the chance to pay it forward. As long as you do, that's payment enough for me.

Sean


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

Aren't we talking about a piece of walnut from 3" to a foot in length? Do we need to ship piece of scrap?


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Let me know if this piece will be big enough.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Bastien said:


> Aren't we talking about a piece of walnut from 3" to a foot in length? Do we need to ship piece of scrap?


My woodworking budget grows every year. Two years ago, a piece that size would have been a prized possession in my shop. I can only imagine the type of budget he is on since he is still in high school.

This reminds me of someone's signature on here that read "those who say it can't be done, should not get in the way of those doing..."

If you have a better option, I'm all ears


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Captain awesome, That piece is perfect. I'll send you my address in a pm. I really appreciate this. I will repay the favor one day when you need something i have.
-Jared


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

No worries Jared. It is only 3/4" thick I hope that's okay. Got your address and "she who must be obeyed" has offered to ship it for me tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

3/4 is perfect. This is why I love this forum and people like you on this forum.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Got the walnut in the mail today. Thanks to captain awesome I can now continue the top thank you very much.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Glad it made it there safe and sound. Now quit watching Pawn Stars? and get back to work!


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I was eating dinner and enjoying an educational show. Haha. But after that I did go to work.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Cut the corners out. Gunna glue it in probably tonight or tomorrow


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Any updates on this bad boy? I can't wait to see it finished!


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Well I'm on spring break this week. The top is still sitting on my bench. I've been repainting my drill press while I'm on break. I plan on working on finishing the top tomorrow or Thursday. Here's a picture of the inner shelf I test fitted on Friday.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

What type of router bit should I use to route the slot for t track an the hole for the mounting plate.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> What type of router bit should I use to route the slot for t track an the hole for the mounting plate.


I used a 1/2 inch straight bit with a 3/4 inch bushing to do mine. It did an excellent job. Your other option is a down spiral bit or a compression bit. Don't use an up cut spiral though as it could chip the laminate.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I don't know a lot about router bits. Would that just be a straight flute bit that I could get at Home Depot?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Yes...


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> Yes...


 Sorry.....


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> Sorry.....


I was hoping Ryan would chime in since he just did this on his table.

Also, no need to apologize for asking a question. I didn't know what he meant by compression bit either, and I doubt he was trying to be insulting in any way.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> Sorry.....


 Nothin to be sorry for. Were all good!! The straight bit from Home Depot would be one like this. 

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1-2-in-x-2-in-Carbide-Straight-Router-Bit-DR12128/100660640/ 

I used the Freud version of this one. (If you plan ahead router bits can be had a bit cheaper on eBay) Compression bits are a spiral bit that the end if are up cut, and the bottom of are down cut. They eliminate chipping the surface, but pull the chips off the bottom of the cut. They are quite pricy. I recently scored a whiteside one of these on eBay for 25 bucks, but they normally retail for 75-100.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

So this would cut the t track and the router plate hole. Now would I need to make a router sled or would I just freehand it?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

No no no to free handing. Which router plate are you buying? I'd check the instructions that came with it for how to cut the hole. It's all dependent upon the radius of the corners on your plate which method you can use. 


Now for the t track I'm assuming your using a metal insert for the track?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I have a picture of it on this thread somewhere it's a kreg plate that I have to drill when I finish my drill press. The t track is just mini t track from peach tree just the metal track. If you can't find pictures on here let me know and I'll post some.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Ok...so I used the same min it from peach tree for part of my top.... 

What I did to cut that slot was to use two very long pieces of very straight stock and attached them to the top with carpet tape 1 inch apart (mini t track was 3/4 wide). I then used a 3/4 inch bushing in my router and the half inch straight bit shown above to cut a perfectly sized groove for the miter track to fit in. 

Now if your t track is different, you don't use a 3/4 bushing, or you use a different bit the 1 inch apart will change.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I'll see if I can find the instructions for the kreg plate....mine was a Jessem which will vary from yours a bit.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Pictures of the instructions the plate and t track I have two 4ft pieces of t track


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Here are instructions for installing the plate. 

http://www.kregtool.com/prodimages/kregprecisioninsertplateinstructions.pdf


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

So the plates not terrible to install....but you will need a bit with a bearing


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Now I should mention you could use a 1/2 inch but with a bearing for both the track and the plate....just move the two pieces of wood I mentioned from one inch apart to the exact width of the track (3/4). Then the bit will work for both.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

So I should buy a 1/2 bit now not 3/4. Does it come with a bearing? Thank for all your help by the way. I appreciate it.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1-2...ring-Flush-Trim-Router-Bit-DR50102/100660681/

This bit would work for all of it....just make sure the pieces double taped to the surface are over an inch thick as the bearing needs to be in contact with it.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Now with the 1/2 bit will I have to make 2 passes for the t track?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Yes. But nothing wrong with that.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I was just making sure. It'll either be done tomorrow or Friday depending on some variables.


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

jbwhitford said:


> Now with the 1/2 bit will I have to make 2 passes for the t track?


Probably 4 or 5. Don't go the full depth in one pass, especially with the first groove. On your widening pass you'll be taking less material, so that one won't be as critical. But I'd still probably take two passes on that one.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

My banding is a little smaller than my top should I make a router sled and make the top flush with te banding or just leave it?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

What's your top constructed of?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Mdf and the banding is maple and walnut corners


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Are you planning on topping that with laminate? MDF will get beat up pretty quick.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Yeah I am. That's why I wanted to know if it would matter that it's not perfectly flat.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

So how much of a difference are we talking? A picture of the edge might help.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It's only on the one side and it's maybe a 1/16 off and it's only In the middle of that side. And some of the corners. The bottom has more but I'm not worried about it.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If it were me.....I'd try and rip down some super thin hardwood and glue it on there....then sand flat. Trying to level the whole top with a router sled is going to be a mess...and leave you with a fuzzy crappy top to laminate to. Also....your laminating the top prior to routering the slots right?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Yeah I just cut the laminate down to size and was installing the corners first. I actually might have I super skinny piece. If I don't put anything there will it affect it any?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It won't adhere to the top there....I'd get it filled and flat.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Here's whats happening. Got I glued an clamped. Took a picture of the new saw blade that made this thin cut possible. It also helped cut the laminate.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Where do you get laminate? I just had a slit mishap where it got stuck where I didn't want and trying to get it back up it broke in half and into a lot of smaller pieces.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I bought white at lowes. 25 bucks for a 4x8 sheet. Menards also carries it, but doesn't stock white.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I don't have a menards and I think around here its 40 at lowes I guess I'm done for the night with that. Really aggravated now. Should I just leave the contact cement on the top or sand it off?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> I don't have a menards and I think around here its 40 at lowes I guess I'm done for the night with that. Really aggravated now. Should I just leave the contact cement on the top or sand it off?


Where in ohio are you?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

My dad said he knows where to get it in a small sheet cheaper I'll just gave to wait until tomorrow. I live in the horrible city of Youngstown to be exact.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

That sucks....the same sheet was 24.99 a few months ago here. It's now 42 on sale here too....


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I guess today just isn't my day. That's what happened to it. Maybe I'll have better luck tomorrow.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> I guess today just isn't my day. That's what happened to it. Maybe I'll have better luck tomorrow.



How did you end up with that many small pieces???


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Well after it ripped in 3 some was still stuck. So I took a putty knife and scraped it off.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> Well after it ripped in 3 some was still stuck. So I took a putty knife and scraped it off.


How expensive is it to ship a small sheet of laminate? I'm currently at the in laws and they have their old countertops sitting in the shed waiting for me to take them home. How hard is it to get old laminate off? Does a heat gun soften the contact cement? 

Sucks that it didn't go right for you today. We've all had this days, but they can always be worse. Just be thankful you still got all ten!


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It's pretty hard to get it off once it's on there. The contact cement is pretty much like cement. I didn't even press on it it just lightly touched and boom it was stuck. I'm gunna run down to a place called star supply with my dad tomorrow. He said its like a building surplus store or something. I should be able to get a 4x4ft piece there.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Try putting some thin scraps down over the top of the table, then position the laminate exactly where you want it. Then, all you have to do is slide the strips out and the laminate will lay down in the right place.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

My dad wasn't home when I did it he was at work and after I messed it up I called him and he said that he would've told me to do that if he'd known I was doing that today because he done it in the past. And knew what I did could happened. Oh well.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Just picked up a 4x8 sheet for around 8 dollars. It's beige.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

How long should I wait before I can router it? And how high should my fence be?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

After you glue it down you mean? I'd wait an hour and you should be good. 

The fence can vary. Commercially produced ones by kreg and others are often only 2-3 inches....I've seen home built ones that are 10 inches high. If you plan on running panels vertically then you will want a higher fence


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I glued it at 12ish so I wait until one I was thinking 5 or 6. What's yours at?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I haven't started my fence yet....I think I'm leaning towards 4 inches. I don't think ill do much vertically against my fence. If I do, I could always make an auxiliary fence to attach to it.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I feel like I'm taking one step forward and then 6 back. I used a 2x4 for my router to sit on the trim the edges of the laminate. Worked good. I need to get closer to the edge. Ok I took the 2x4 off and decided oh I could just run it along the edge without messing it up. Wrong. Here's what happened. In other news my new router bit works like it should.....


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> I feel like I'm taking one step forward and then 6 back. I used a 2x4 for my router to sit on the trim the edges of the laminate. Worked good. I need to get closer to the edge. Ok I took the 2x4 off and decided oh I could just run it along the edge without messing it up. Wrong. Here's what happened. In other news my new router bit works like it should.....


Hang in there, everything will be fine. Can this be a location where the T track exits the table top?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

jbwhitford said:


> I feel like I'm taking one step forward and then 6 back. I used a 2x4 for my router to sit on the trim the edges of the laminate. Worked good. I need to get closer to the edge. Ok I took the 2x4 off and decided oh I could just run it along the edge without messing it up. Wrong. Here's what happened. In other news my new router bit works like it should.....


All part of learning...hang in there. Can you trim 1/8 off the edge to remove that?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> All part of learning...hang in there. Can you trim 1/8 off the edge to remove that?


No there are brad nails in it because it didn't have long enough clamps. I'm just going to mix glue and maple dust fill the gap and try to piece in a tiny hit of laminate.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

How about a round over bit


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

Rout it more to deepen it and square it off, then glue a small block of wood in. A sawdust patch can fill in some cracks, but it won't be strong enough to create an edge surface.


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

Rout it a little deeper and square it off, then glue in a block of wood. A sawdust patch won't be very strong.


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## Wendel17 (Apr 20, 2009)

captainawesome said:


> How hard is it to get old laminate off? Does a heat gun soften the contact cement?


A heat gun does work..somewhat. First of all, it takes quite a while, and the heat sometimes blisters the laminate.

Secondly, it's pretty tough to get it all off in one piece so that you can use it again. The stuff is RAZOR sharp when it breaks.

The easiest way to do it is to use thinners. Carefully start lifting a corner with a putty knife, and when you see it coming off, pour some thinners between the wood and the laminate. You'll see the thinners start to eat the glue, and it will separate fairly easy. Don't pull on the laminate too hard or it'll crack. 

It's quite messy, and stinks pretty bad so be sure you have lots of ventallation. Wear gloves incase it rips on you. Like I said..it's razor sharp. The thinners will evapourate so you can glue again.

Edit: I should have mentioned this, but laquer thinner or rubber cement thinner works best. Paint thinner or Varsol won't evapourate as well so you'll be waiting forever for it to dry.


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## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

I like the round over or chamfer option along that edge, especially if it's on an edge where a t-track won't meet, although with a 45 chamfer you might be able to do the same to the end of the aluminum track with a miter saw.

Ultimately remember it's a shop project, if it doesn't impact the functionality of it...


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'm more concerned with my grade on it. I know my shop teacher will take points off on it or I wouldn't worry about it.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Has anyone ever made a faceplate for a light switch? I wanted to make a faceplate and I want to trim around the petty don't box to cover the metal box and the slight screw up in the hole for it.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I think this has been discussed on here and if I remember correctly, there were safety issues involved. You would need to cover the entire back of the plate with metal to keep it from being a fire hazard.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I have wood ones on my walls so I may have to look at that and see what's going on. But even if I do have to put metal behind it I would still be fine with that.
Edit:you can also buy them at homedepot without the metal on the back so...


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I need to cut out the center for the router plate. It says to use a jigsaw but I lack one. Is there a replacement I could use or no.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Progress:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Due to my inexperience with a router once again I stumbled onto a problem. I had the mdf guides on when I routed it I have no idea how this happened. Now I'm nervous to route in the t track. I followed kreg directions but that ugly curvy gap happened. I need your help once more in any ideas on how to fix this. Thank you.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

JB, 

It looks like you my have tipped the router a bit while working your way around the cut.

Its a bit unsightly but IMO its no big deal as long as the router plate fits snugly in the recess without any lateral movement.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It fits fine but I'm getting graded on my work and there's about A 1/8 to a 1/4 gap. If I wasn't getting graded it would be a big deal. This is about the fourth time I've used the router so I'm still learning. Thanks.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Sorry, I forgot that this was a school project.

I wish I could help but I can't think of any way to fix that short of starting over with the top.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It's fine. I'll think about when I go to work. I would hate to have to restart the top I don't really have the time or money. The project is due in roughly under two weeks so I don't have much time left


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I think your out of luck on fixing that. Sorry man


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

If it's a metal shop class, will you be graded on the top? Tell the teacher, without his expert guidance, your rout job wasn't up to snuff. In other words, butter him up


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

2 suggestions:
- fill it with wood filler and paint it white to blend/match the top

- route a decorative inlay around the whole plate. 

Lots of options on the 2nd route - keep it a narrow/shallow channel and paint it a color that matches some other part of the project/color scheme. Route a shallow channel and put in some decorative wood inlay. Etc...


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

rbk123 said:


> 2 suggestions: - fill it with wood filler and paint it white to blend/match the top - route a decorative inlay around the whole plate. Lots of options on the 2nd route - keep it a narrow/shallow channel and paint it a color that matches some other part of the project/color scheme. Route a shallow channel and put in some decorative wood inlay. Etc...


Use the wood you fixed the corners with!


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Bastien said:


> Use the wood you fixed the corners with!


 I'm out of that wood I used it for the corners and something else.


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## jdpber (Mar 25, 2014)

at this point in time. i know this thought is late. But sure would have been nice for the framing to be attached to an under sheet and the top with laminate to be a drop in allowing the top to be replaced if say it gets a dent or gouge or a bad cut on the plate hole.. no real easy way to fix that.. well i have a way but with the limited router skill set would be a challenging fix.. But i will still toss it out their. You could use a 1/4/ or 1/2 bit and route a slot around the plate area and make an inlay out or well anything and have it be a shallow insert say 3/16 deep. 

Sorry to see you hit a wall with your project


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I brought the cart itself home today to paint and put the final touches on it I'll post pictures when I get back from the store.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Final height 43"(about waist height for me) I'm trying to clean up the garage from working on this top and restoring my drill press. That's why all the tools are inside plus I wanted to test it out.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

JB, 

That router table is looking killer man!

Don't be at all discouraged by the mistakes. We all make them no matter how much experience we have.

When I cut the plate recess for my first router table it turned out perfect. If I'd have been being graded...A+ yes

Beginners luck or providence you decide. 

Even after the experience I gained on the first one the second time I used the same procedure I had issues similar to what you're experiencing. Solid B on my part. Go figure huh?

You're doing a great job buddy.

Edit:

Good call on the height. I'm 6'2" (and shrinking). Mine is at 37" and if it was at 42" like yours it would make setup and operation easier.

Two Thumbs up!


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

jharris2 said:


> JB, That router table is looking killer man! Don't be at all discouraged by the mistakes. We all make them no matter how much experience we have. When I cut the plate recess for my first router table it turned out perfect. If I'd have been being graded...A+ yes Beginners luck or providence you decide. Even after the experience I gained on the first one the second time I used the same procedure I had issues similar to what you're experiencing. Solid B on my part. Go figure huh? You're doing a great job buddy. Edit: Good call on the height. I'm 6'2" (and shrinking). Mine is at 37" and if it was at 42" like yours it would make setup and operation easier. Two Thumbs up!


 I'm 6'2" also and I might still grow a little more. I based the height off of the height of my workbench. I try to not get discouraged but it is hard sometimes. But I know most people in my grade wouldn't even know where to begin with something like this or even know what a router table is. On another note a couple of questions have crossed my mind: 1. What color would you guys paint it? I think I would like it to compliment the maple and walnut banding on the top as well as the maple cabinet doors I have yet to make. 2. What kind of finish should I use on the maple and walnut banding and doors? The only finish I have ever used would be polyurethane and I would like to try something different. Thanks for all the help once again I wouldn't be able to do this without everyone's help here. -Jared
Edit- I have a third question. 
How did you (if you have made your own router table) run the electric to the router if you have a switch on the side to turn it off and on?


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Jared,

1. Paint it whatever color pleases you.

2. For a durable finish on solid would I would use multiple coats of clear lacquer, HOWEVER, there are a lot of folks here who know alot more than I do about finishing so take my suggestion with a grain of salt.

3. I used one of these on my primary router table. It allows me easy access for emergency shut off and turns on a dust collector/vaccuum with the router.

https://www.kregtool.com/MultiPurpose-Router-Table-Switch-Prodview.html

It mounts easily to the Kreg router table but I had to modify it a bit foe mine.

If you just want a paddle switch for ease and safety...


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'm thinking about painting it black but I don't know if another color would look good with the maple. And thanks about the suggestion of using lacquer. I'm probably going to make the first door today and hopefully get more tomorrow


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## jdpber (Mar 25, 2014)

If it was me being a designer, I like to see my options first so i would grab some paint swatches that are close to the Lacquer available to you at your local Box store. With the color samples tape to the base and see what you like.. PERSONALLY I think that a 1957 Corvette "CASCADE GREEN" would look good in combination to the white top and darker Maple accents.. and also pop against your red wheels.. 

the color codes are: PPG 41973 and Dupont 59469


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

jdpber said:


> If it was me being a designer, I like to see my options first so i would grab some paint swatches that are close to the Lacquer available to you at your local Box store. With the color samples tape to the base and see what you like.. PERSONALLY I think that a 1957 Corvette "CASCADE GREEN" would look good in combination to the white top and darker Maple accents.. and also pop against your red wheels.. the color codes are: PPG 41973 and Dupont 59469


 I don't know anything about lacquer. So it comes in different colors? And how would I apply it. Lastly where can I get some of that color because i think it would look good also. My room is a similar color.


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## jdpber (Mar 25, 2014)

Home Depot and auto parts stores sell LIMITED color choices in Lacquer. When I say limited i mean: Black, White, generic red, blue green, yellow. BUT! Dupont makes an industrial paint that has a catalyst hardener that is super paint that cures to a rock hard surface.. I have used it on many things from boats to machinery and it can be mixed to any color desired using the paint codes that i provided.. Now this would be a 2 part paint that needs to be prayed on with an air compressor paint gun over a primer. Can use rattle can primer automotive base for metal.. prep the surfaces super smooth and scuff with a scuff pad i usually use a 250. Remember the key to a great show quality finish is in the PREP. "If you can feel it you can see it" Now not knowing your paint skills, I toss out these tips. A quart of top coat paint will be plenty to do your cabinet with 2 nice coats and the finish luster should be fine for a machine. I have a local paint supply company i use to get my paints mixed, But you can use your yellow pages and look up your local paint supplier and ask if they stock Dupont. also you can google your location and dupont paint distributors.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

About the only thing I have to say is about the noise. Are those panels solid or thin sheet metal? If they're not solid (ie lots of mass) you may have some real noise issues when you run that router. If so, consider some sound baffling like is on the bottom of sinks or the stuff you can buy to after-market sound proof your car. Wood has a lot of sound dampening qualities but metal tends to amplify sound...

As for colors, I'd go with a green or possibly a red but you should go with whatever you like. If you change your mind that cart will last a lifetime and you can always repaint it. I wouldn't do any designs though, that will invariably require repainting at some point because you'll get sick of it.


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## jdpber (Mar 25, 2014)

agree ^^ no designs


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Got the maple planed to a little over 1/2 to account for some sanding. I need to glue all of them together but I don't have a jointer and I need to get the edges squared so it will be tight. What other options do I have?
Edit- there might be some warp in them what can I do to fix that it will I just have to deal with it?


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## Wendel17 (Apr 20, 2009)

You can use your router table with an offset fence to joint your edges. Set the offset to account for the material you're taking off. I have mine set for 1/32".


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Danno said:


> You can use your router table with an offset fence to joint your edges. Set the offset to account for the material you're taking off. I have mine set for 1/32".


could you explain what you mean a little more. I'm slightly confused maybe with a picture or a link to a website?


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## jdpber (Mar 25, 2014)

Here read this http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

frankp said:


> About the only thing I have to say is about the noise. Are those panels solid or thin sheet metal? If they're not solid (ie lots of mass) you may have some real noise issues when you run that router. If so, consider some sound baffling like is on the bottom of sinks or the stuff you can buy to after-market sound proof your car. Wood has a lot of sound dampening qualities but metal tends to amplify sound...


Yep

..


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I ran it today wasn't horrible. When input the wood doors on it should absorb some of the sound.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

If I put clear lacquer on my wood will it just enhance the color of it?


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Yes.

You can get a good idea how it will look with lacquer on it if you wipe a piece of scrap with mineral spirits/paint thinner.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I was using some bondo to fill some holes and cracks today. Well the one are has a large gap in it. I figured I would put shims in it to fill most of the space and put bondo over it to seal off the gap. While cutting one of the shims my knife slipped and I cut my finger pretty good. Thank god my moms a nurse and used some steri strips and other stuff to stop the bleeding and seal it up. I'll take pictures later. (Of the bondo not my finger)  so work has hauled for now. I will most likely start up again tomorrow.


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## Wendel17 (Apr 20, 2009)

jbwhitford said:


> I was using some bondo to fill some holes and cracks today. Well the one are has a large gap in it. I figured I would put shims in it to fill most of the space and put bondo over it to seal off the gap. While cutting one of the shims my knife slipped and I cut my finger pretty good. Thank god my moms a nurse and used some steri strips and other stuff to stop the bleeding and seal it up. I'll take pictures later. (Of the bondo not my finger)  so work has hauled for now. I will most likely start up again tomorrow.


I've seen more people get cut with utility knives than table saws..those things can be dangerous! Always cut away from yourself. They really don't take much to slip.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Got a boat load accomplished yesterday. T tracks installed. One edge of the router insert fixed. Some more bondo on. And the start of the fence being built. Also got a 6 bdft board of maple I'm hoping the marks will stay after planning


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

More pictures


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I finished and got it graded yesterday. I had to get it in by yesterday or I would receive an f. I was up all night finishing it. I ruined the bottom cabinet doors and have many other things I would like to redo/fix on it and will do so over the course of the summer. Here are some pictures. I got a 95% A. I would like to thank all of you for your advice and help. And a special thanks to captain awesome who sent me the walnut for the corners of the top. I will post the changes I make over the summer if you guys would like. Thanks again. 
- Jared


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## jdpber (Mar 25, 2014)

This was a great learning project for you. And turned out great for a first timer. Do not beat yourself up too hard


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Jared, the cabinet turned out great!! Congrats on the A, you definitely deserved it!

As for the things you plan to fix over the summer, be sure to keep us posted. I like looking at all of my old shop projects and seeing how they progress over time. I have a lot of "less than stellar" projects I built for the shop that are a great reminder as to how far I've come.

Keep up the great work!


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

thats a tricky school regulation... has to be all steel, and its got to be THEIR steel?

That would encourage me to make the smallest cheapest projects that would make the grade, rather than things I actually want to make :/

Of course the deadline for completion is also problematic.

but looks like the product turned out good.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

If I were to buy the steel by myself it would be more expensive because they buy in bulk and get a deal and I think they give it to is for cost. I'm happy with how it turned out I just need to tweak those few things.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I didn't know if you guys would be interested in seeing what I made throughout the year in welding along with the router table. I made a coffee table. It's a tiled top with white oak in the bottom I think I'll have to find the receipt to see what I bought. And I made a lamp I cut the steel into the Sinclair gasoline symbol. I used auto cad and we cut it on our plasma table.


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