# 5/8 drawer material.. buy or make?



## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

I'm pretty new at this, so I still have goofy questions...

When it comes to making drawers, I see a lot of 5/8 hardwood is used.

I live in a sort of rural area.. I have a home depot near me, but they don't sell 5/8.

So here's the question.. do you BUY 5/8 material, or do you make 5/8 from 3/4 inch stock?

Or do you say to heck with that and use 1/2 inch ply wood instead?

Or ... ?


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Plasma, 
You do not say what your project is and the project will dictate the materials choice. 
For kitchen and baths, a 1/2" drawer can be used. For a dresser or wide drawer 5/8" or more might be preferred. 
A high quality no voids Birch plywood makes very good drawers. Route the top edge of the drawer sides with a round over bit for a better look. 
Solid drawer sides are used when you don't want to see the plys on the edge. They are no stronger.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Hardwood is not used extensively for drawer bodies other than very high end furniture. As noted above birch plywood makes an excellent material.

The last time I had several drawers to make I planed down common white pine to the thickness I wanted.

George


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

I choose/use the best material for the application. if it is a utilitarian drawer (in the shop, basement, otherwise don't care what it looks like) I use 1/2" ply. 


everywhere else I use 1/2" or 5/8" beech, or other hardwood. I plane 3/4" down to thickness for that job. that's just me.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't think I've ever seen a drawer box made out of 5/8" material. The drawers I see run between 3/8" and 1/2", mostly 1/2". For cabinets I use 1/2" baltic birch plywood. Furniture I generally surface 3/4" wood to 1/2" thick. It's really the main reason I bought a planer in the first place is to surface drawer siding.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Or, you can buy pre-made stuff, 


http://www.rockler.com/drawer-sides-select-size


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I usually make drawer stock from 3/4 with the planer. This way I can get the thickness is the same...


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

excellent, thanks, that gives me some pointers.


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

I tried using a dovetail jig on 1/2 ply... that was a no go for sure.

I made a bunch of drawers for my miter saw station today, tried a lock rabbit.. that turned out terrible.

Started over and just butt jointed the stuff together with 18 gauge nails and glue... that worked.. but of course it's not nice looking, but it's garage stuff.

However, when it does come to "in the house" furniture, I'm searching for clues of the way to make drawers nice.


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

Steve Neul said:


> I don't think I've ever seen a drawer box made out of 5/8" material. The drawers I see run between 3/8" and 1/2", mostly 1/2". For cabinets I use 1/2" baltic birch plywood. Furniture I generally surface 3/4" wood to 1/2" thick. It's really the main reason I bought a planer in the first place is to surface drawer siding.


I watched a bunch of videos on youtube from the young man that owns this company

http://www.barkerdoor.com/Hard-White-Maple-Dovetail-Drawer-Box-p/drawerbox-hardmaple-dovetail.htm

and he was always talking about 5/8 hardwood. Here you can see you can purchase pre-cut boxes, assemble them yourself.. but the get sort of pricey I think...

but I didn't know if this width was milled, bought, never used, or very common...


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

I also watched other videos of some guy using a dovetail jig on 3/4 inch ply wood.. it looked terrible when he was done!!

I figure that a dovetail jig is really intended for a solid board....


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

plasma800 said:


> I watched a bunch of videos on youtube from the young man that owns this company
> 
> http://www.barkerdoor.com/Hard-White-Maple-Dovetail-Drawer-Box-p/drawerbox-hardmaple-dovetail.htm
> 
> ...


I just don't think I would care for a drawer box made from material thicker than 1/2". The thicker the box material the less space inside the drawer so it's unnecessary wasted space.


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

Steve Neul said:


> I just don't think I would care for a drawer box made from material thicker than 1/2". The thicker the box material the less space inside the drawer so it's unnecessary wasted space.


But would you state that working with solid wood boxes over plywood boxes is better?

And if you are using plywood, what corner joinery is your preferred method?


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

Rebelwork said:


> I usually make drawer stock from 3/4 with the planer. This way I can get the thickness is the same...


What thickness do you plane to?


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

plasma800 said:


> I tried using a dovetail jig on 1/2 ply... that was a no go for sure.
> 
> I made a bunch of drawers for my miter saw station today, tried a lock rabbit.. that turned out terrible.
> 
> ...


I don't understand your first comment above "a no go for sure". I've made a lot of drawers using 1/2" plywood for the sides. I don't always dovetail the drawers, but when I do, it works fine with no problem. As I stated above in an earlier post, I prefer high grade, no voids, Birch. 
A drawer made with rabbeted sides also makes a very good drawer. I always dado my drawer bottoms in.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

When I built the buffet/server in our dining room and the new cabinets for our kitchen, I used hard maple and poplar. The larger boxes were made from stock I glued up, then planed down to 5/8 inch. And the dovetail jig worked just fine.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

plasma800 said:


> But would you state that working with solid wood boxes over plywood boxes is better?
> 
> And if you are using plywood, what corner joinery is your preferred method?


The overwhelming majority of drawer boxes I make I make for cabinet construction. I make them out of baltic birch and use butt joints. I also glue the drawer bottoms in. I have never had one come apart. I think furniture should have a better class of drawer box though so I use solid wood. I still use butt joints and glue the bottoms in. When I had a furniture repair business most of the time when a drawer needed repair it was done with a dovetail joint usually requiring you to break it apart and remake some of the pieces. Therefore I regard the dovetail joint more for show than functional. On the other hand a long time ago when adhesives weren't so good I can see where there was a benefit to using a dovetail joint but I think they are obsolete today.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> The overwhelming majority of drawer boxes I make I make for cabinet construction. I make them out of baltic birch and use butt joints. I also glue the drawer bottoms in. I have never had one come apart. I think furniture should have a better class of drawer box though so I use solid wood. I still use butt joints and glue the bottoms in. When I had a furniture repair business most of the time when a drawer needed repair it was done with a dovetail joint usually requiring you to break it apart and remake some of the pieces. Therefore I regard the dovetail joint more for show than functional. On the other hand a long time ago when adhesives weren't so good I can see where there was a benefit to using a dovetail joint but I think they are obsolete today.


Not obsolete. People just want more for less. It's common for smaller shops to butt joint. Better cabinets require better options for drawers as well as hardware. 

Everyone in this business has their standard and their upgrade... When I ran my shop, I gave a base price and the option to upgrade...This system seemed to work well with customers as it gave them more control of the final outcome...:wink2:


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

Toolman50 said:


> I don't understand your first comment above "a no go for sure". I've made a lot of drawers using 1/2" plywood for the sides. I don't always dovetail the drawers, but when I do, it works fine with no problem. As I stated above in an earlier post, I prefer high grade, no voids, Birch.
> A drawer made with rabbeted sides also makes a very good drawer. I always dado my drawer bottoms in.


When I tried the jig with the 1/2 inch, the ply wood just blew out.. however, this was middle of the road (even for home depot) plywood.


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

Steve Neul said:


> The overwhelming majority of drawer boxes I make I make for cabinet construction. I make them out of baltic birch and use butt joints. I also glue the drawer bottoms in. I have never had one come apart. I think furniture should have a better class of drawer box though so I use solid wood. I still use butt joints and glue the bottoms in. When I had a furniture repair business most of the time when a drawer needed repair it was done with a dovetail joint usually requiring you to break it apart and remake some of the pieces. Therefore I regard the dovetail joint more for show than functional. On the other hand a long time ago when adhesives weren't so good I can see where there was a benefit to using a dovetail joint but I think they are obsolete today.


I agree, I just wish I didn't have to drive an hour each way to get my hands on some baltic birch... but simple hardwoods are more readily available in a 20 minute drive each way. For maple or something like that, I'd still have to make the drive.

Obviously, I'm not a cabinet maker, and make nothing for profit. I agree that nicer furniture merits a nicer drawer box, but i'm still trying to get my drawer chops down at all... practical experience and all.. I'm a novice at best at this point.

I can't believe I can't find a decent lumber house in the Conroe/Montgomery/The Woodlands area just north of Houston. But I haven't yet... there's plenty of places in town, but it's a hike.


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

I just made a few drawers for my miter saw station.. they are all crooked.. none of the fronts sit flat, even the front of the drawer is slightly crooked compared to the cabinet face.. admittedly, I paid little attention to the finer details.. I think even the sides aren't straight.. they are only off by a 1/16th, it irks me, but again.. #neverstoplearning 

and it's very quick garage stuff just to get my miter saw off a stack of plywood. Trying to diagnose what and where the errors are.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

plasma800 said:


> I agree, I just wish I didn't have to drive an hour each way to get my hands on some baltic birch... but simple hardwoods are more readily available in a 20 minute drive each way. For maple or something like that, I'd still have to make the drive.
> 
> Obviously, I'm not a cabinet maker, and make nothing for profit. I agree that nicer furniture merits a nicer drawer box, but i'm still trying to get my drawer chops down at all... practical experience and all.. I'm a novice at best at this point.
> 
> I can't believe I can't find a decent lumber house in the Conroe/Montgomery/The Woodlands area just north of Houston. But I haven't yet... there's plenty of places in town, but it's a hike.


You gotta get closer to Houston...
I use Clark's Hardwoods in the Heights. And there is Houston Hardwoods also.

Make it a road trip. Lots of good places to eat between here and there! :grin:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

plasma800 said:


> I agree, I just wish I didn't have to drive an hour each way to get my hands on some baltic birch... but simple hardwoods are more readily available in a 20 minute drive each way. For maple or something like that, I'd still have to make the drive.
> 
> Obviously, I'm not a cabinet maker, and make nothing for profit. I agree that nicer furniture merits a nicer drawer box, but i'm still trying to get my drawer chops down at all... practical experience and all.. I'm a novice at best at this point.
> 
> I can't believe I can't find a decent lumber house in the Conroe/Montgomery/The Woodlands area just north of Houston. But I haven't yet... there's plenty of places in town, but it's a hike.


About 2 1/2 hours in Austin there is Brazos Forest Products. You can get pretty much any wood there and if you order it in advance they will surface the wood in what ever thickness you desire.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Rebelwork said:


> Not obsolete. People just want more for less. It's common for smaller shops to butt joint. Better cabinets require better options for drawers as well as hardware.
> 
> Everyone in this business has their standard and their upgrade... When I ran my shop, I gave a base price and the option to upgrade...This system seemed to work well with customers as it gave them more control of the final outcome...:wink2:


My perspective on it is the dovetail joint may look pretty but if you can build someone a drawer that will last them the rest of their life with a butt joint no other system is necessary. Then when their children or grandchildren has the joint fail and a repair is needed a lot less skills are needed to make that repair. They may not need professional help.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

5/8" Baltic Birch for me. Did it with my Reliant dovetail jig for 15 year, got a Grizzly dovetail machine now.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I forgot to mention that when I built the drawers for our cabinets, I only dovetailed the fronts. No one ever sees the rears anyway, so why bother! Cut my build time considerably. :surprise2:

And lately, I have switched to 1/2 inch Baltic birch with butt joints. If the drawer hardware features a soft close mechanism, chances are the drawer will last a looong time.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I like the dovetails because you put a little glue in them and bang them together and you're done. No clamps or nails. I have a lock joint that I make on the tablesaw. It's quick to make, but you have to clamp the joint and wait for the glue to dry. So you lose time at the back end.


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

MT Stringer said:


> You gotta get closer to Houston...
> I use Clark's Hardwoods in the Heights. And there is Houston Hardwoods also.
> 
> Make it a road trip. Lots of good places to eat between here and there! :grin:


shooooot... I just LEFT Houston for the sound of crickets and frogs (and apparently scorpions, black widows, flies, and birds that love to peck and poop at my truck mirrors) :thumbsup:

Closer would be a hardwood company on 290, but it's a hike. 

I'm nervous to store too much wood here.. the humidity is so bad, plus I'm limited somewhat on space, unless I ditched the bass boat, then I'd have a ton of space.. but....


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

Leo G said:


> I like the dovetails because you put a little glue in them and bang them together and you're done. No clamps or nails. I have a lock joint that I make on the tablesaw. It's quick to make, but you have to clamp the joint and wait for the glue to dry. So you lose time at the back end.


why not glue + 18 gauge that joint and go?

Ive tried several attempts at those lock rabbit joints, and for some unknown reason, the results are mixed.

I cut 5 drawers like that the other day, all from the same piece of ply, and all pieces at the same time. It was a disaster. A couple of the joints came out perfect, but others came out with the rabbit to thick, and it split the dado end right off... others came out with the fitting rabbit too long, leaving a gap in the joint.. others, the rabbit to short and not bottoming out...

left me scratching my head, opened beer instead.. :bangin:


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I rabbeted my plywood drawers. They work great.









Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

plasma800 said:


> why not glue + 18 gauge that joint and go?
> 
> Ive tried several attempts at those lock rabbit joints, and for some unknown reason, the results are mixed.
> 
> ...


I make these on the tablesaw using a rip blade. (because it has square teeth)


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

Leo G said:


> I make these on the tablesaw using a rip blade. (because it has square teeth)


interesting point I had yet to consider. I used my dado inner and outer blade... probably 1/4 was too much for 1/2 inch ply.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> My perspective on it is the dovetail joint may look pretty but if you can build someone a drawer that will last them the rest of their life with a butt joint no other system is necessary. Then when their children or grandchildren has the joint fail and a repair is needed a lot less skills are needed to make that repair. They may not need professional help.


I don't make people buy dovetails, I offer them. I get $45 over $15 a box when I ran my shop many years ago...

Some people especially those who are finally ready to have a house built or upgraded after years paying on a mortgage want something better than the cheapest set..


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