# Refurbishing Hand Saws



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Due to Brink's success with his dovetail saw I've decided to tackle refurbishing and restoring a couple of classic hand saws. I have 2 D-8's (one is pretty rough), a old unknown maker Gents style, a WS (disston) Tennon saw, and still looking for a clean brass backed back saw.

Anyway, I'll be learning as I go so I'll surely be posting questions and pictures of solutions and progress as I go and will try to keep it all here in one place instead of multiple threads.

I've sharpened a rip saw before but sharpening a cc saw is not intuitive to me so that should be interesting to say the least.

I'll post pictures of the saws I'll be working on tomorrow afternoon. 

Cheers!

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Meant to post this above. It's going to be really helpful to my project.

http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/files/image/backsaws/pdf/Backsaw_Project.pdf

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Good luck with your restorations. I look forward to watching them progress. I find the crosscut is not as hard as it seems. I'd recommend making a layout sheet to set on the bench to reference your file to whatever angle you use, 15 deg or whatever. Should be fun.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

This will be cool.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks for the link, I am in no way ready to start making a saw yet (in fact I haven't even sharpened one yet) but it looks to be a great resource to add to my growing library. I've got several old saws laying around and have even bought the required files for sharpening but I haven't found the time (truthfully the guts) to start in on them. Maybe after I watch through your project I'll finally take the plunge:yes:


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

firemedic said:


> Due to Brink's success with his dovetail saw I've decided to tackle refurbishing and restoring a couple of classic hand saws. I have 2 D-8's (one is pretty rough), a old unknown maker Gents style, a WS (disston) Tennon saw, and still looking for a clean brass backed back saw.
> 
> Anyway, I'll be learning as I go so I'll surely be posting questions and pictures of solutions and progress as I go and will try to keep it all here in one place instead of multiple threads.
> 
> ...


The guy that taught me saw sharpening had us press the file into the gullet of the teeth. Under slight pressure it "finds" the angle that the cross cut saw was filed. Just move down the saw maintaining this angle. It isn't that much different than filing a rip saw.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Thanks wrangler!

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## HandToolGuy (Dec 10, 2011)

Thanks for the link. As it happens, I am working on some raggedy saws myself, so I am really interested in your progress.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I found this to be worth while check out too!

http://www.backsaw.net/SawHandles101.pdf

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Decided to start with these two today. If I mess em up, no biggie!

Hadn't taken a close look at the Warranted Superior other than it's a cross cut saw. It was given to me.

The little gents style is an unknown make but also a cross cut and has 15 tpi... The spine was IMPOSSIBLE to remove! It cost me $2

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

The Gents is first as the other is going to need a long soak in evaporust.

The teeth on it were horrible! It didn't require much jointing and the sharpening went pretty dang well. It took me a while to figure out how to use the set then I realized it had been disassembled at some boing and put together wrong! Fixed that and it worked great. This has got to be the smallest teeth I could set with it though!

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

It cut very aggressively and a lil rough at first. Brink suggested putting an oil stone to the sides of the teeth and that worked great! It cuts very quickly.

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

And that's that... That saw is sharp! I couldn't let it go at that though :laughing: 

So.... I decided to try making this good cutting saw a bit 'fancier' :smile:

I cut the tang off of the saw and drew and cut out the familiar design saw handle from 6/4" mahogany and shaped it with a rasp and chisels... I did a bit of sanding but it needs more as well as some brass (not sure I want brass) bolts.

Enjoy :smile: much more to come!!!

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Had the blade set wrong in the handle for those last two Picts... This is corrected...

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## Jim West Pa (Jul 27, 2010)

firemedic said:


> I found this to be worth while check out too!
> 
> http://www.backsaw.net/SawHandles101.pdf
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...


 I really enjoyed that Tom.
Took me back to my gunstock makin days.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Very nice Tom. It must feel empowering to take a rusty old saw and turn it into something special that does its job perhaps better than it ever has before.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Metal working is ok, but that handle I love


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

I think I said it before; but you do nice work Kid.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Wow that's a nice looking saw handle. Looks like a Gramercy saw now. Is that one of those rasps you scored? Looks like one score is helping to restore another score without scoring the wood roughly. SCORE!


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

That was very informative, Tom.
I love the handle.
Seems I read something about using your index finger laid along the side of the handle for more control.
Did you carve out a little cove area for your finger to into? Just curious.
You've inspired me once again.
Thank you.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

That was very informative, Tom.
I love the handle.
I read the tutorial on making a handle...wow!!! I liked the part about using shellac between coats...time consuming but what a great result.
Seems I read something about using your index finger laid along the side of the handle for more control.
Did you carve out a little cove area for your finger to into? Just curious.
You've inspired me once again.
Thank you.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

ACP said:


> Is that one of those rasps you scored?


In the picture, yes! Overall though used several rasps of different size, grain and radius. :smile: it was a lot of fun! Took under an hr from start to finish for the handle... Granted it still has a little work to be done to it.



tcleve4911 said:


> Seems I read something about using your index finger laid along the side of the handle for more control.
> Did you carve out a little cove area for your finger to into?
> Thank you.


That is how I hold a saw but I didn't carve a spot for the index finger per say. I did however make it right handed as you can see somewhat in the pictures below. It's quite comfortable to hold even with my ape sized hands.

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Brink said:


> Metal working is ok, but that handle I love


oh, that didn't read right.

I never meant to belittle the blade, which turned out awesome, I was mostly impressing upon how great the handle is.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Brink said:


> oh, that didn't read right.
> 
> I never meant to belittle the blade, which turned out awesome, I was mostly impressing upon how great the handle is.


:smile: I didn't take it that way :no: If I had I would have figured it was for my "breaking yer hip ole man" comment :laughing:

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

firemedic said:


> Meant to post this above. It's going to be really helpful to my project.
> 
> http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/files/image/backsaws/pdf/Backsaw_Project.pdf
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...



hey thanks for this link! I am going to read this now.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

firemedic said:


> :smile: I didn't take it that way :no: If I had I would have figured it was for my "breaking yer hip ole man" comment :laughing:
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...


Hip? Thought you said rib.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

woodgeekess said:


> hey thanks for this link! I am going to read this now.


You really should read Brink's "sharpening Dovetail saw" thread too!

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

firemedic said:


> You really should read Brink's "sharpening Dovetail saw" thread too!
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...


Do you have a link? I searched for it. Thanks 

EDIT: Nevermind, I found it with Google Search  Thanks again!


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Added a couple "furniture" knock down bolts :smile:

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Soon to be a 12 tpi tennon rip saw :smile:

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Looking' good! How's it work/feel?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Brink said:


> Looking' good! How's it work/feel?


It works very well. It doesn't feel quite right yet, the handle still needs to be softened a bit.

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## lawrence (Nov 14, 2009)

beautiful job Tom...love the handle shape....how come you sat the tail down so low? is that more comfortable to you?


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

Hey firemedic, I saw a couple of Will. Putsch Saws at Woodcraft yesterday. One was a 15TPI 13" Rip Backsaw with steel rather than brass backing. The other was a panel saw (or maybe a little longer) rip saw.

Do you know anything about these saws? They were only around $52 each. They are made in Germany. I was told by a clerk there at Woodcraft that they are traditional carbon steel and will rust and can be resharpened--i.e. not hardened steel. 

The rivets didn't look that impressive (steel looks to be of low quality) and the handles were made of roughly finished beech. 

But I am wondering how good the steel is, because I can reshape/sharpen the teeth by hand.

I see $50 disston backsaws on ebay that are really pitted and have almost broken handles. I really don't wanna risk buying one from ebay--I just got burnt on a #4 smoothing plane that looked super in the picture and the person said it was a great plane: when I got it every single part but the brass adjuster knob and lever cap was unusable and irreparable--it's like he threw together a frankenplane of his stash of reject parts, sigh; I threw it all away except for those 2 parts and some screws.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

woodgeekess said:


> Hey firemedic, I saw a couple of Will. Putsch Saws at Woodcraft yesterday. One was a 15TPI 13" Rip Backsaw with steel rather than brass backing. The other was a panel saw (or maybe a little longer) rip saw.
> 
> Do you know anything about these saws? They were only around $52 each. They are made in Germany. I was told by a clerk there at Woodcraft that they are traditional carbon steel and will rust and can be resharpened--i.e. not hardened steel.
> 
> ...


First off dig through the can and find all those parts you threw away. Contact paypal end eBay. 

There is buyer protection and for the most part the buyer is never wrong. Send it back and get a refund.

As for the saws, I really am new to hand saws and I've never seen those so can't offer an opinion on them. will they let you try them out in the store?

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Remember that saw from the first page? Here it is... Needs a new handle still but I got the blade sharpened and set this morn.


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## HandToolGuy (Dec 10, 2011)

firemedic said:


> Remember that saw from the first page? Here it is... Needs a new handle still but I got the blade sharpened and set this morn.


Looks terrific! How does it cut? Smooth? Straight?

Like you, I have been fairly successful with rip saws. I have some junk cross cut to practice on and I have been working at it, but I can see that the road is long and progress is slow.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

This thread got me thinking about a Belsaw sharpener that I have. It was bought by my father back in the 70's. I used it to resharpen my hand saws back then. It was stored at my sister's garage for 10 years or so and a few of the parts were lost. Well I picked it up some years back and have had it stored in the shed since. Yesterday, I removed it from the shed and relocated it to a location that it could be used. All I need to do now is make a few parts for it to work. 

I did check at the local saw sharpener and he told me he does not do hand saws anymore, he sends them to NJ. I guess I have around 3 or 4 dozen hand saws of all types, so it would make sense to get the old Belsaw working. Oh, I also have a re-toother that will do a number of different teeth. 

Thanks for getting me motivated.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Very cool! I'd love to find an old toother and belsaw... Let me know when you get em up and running. I'd like to send you some blank saw plates for toothing if you are interested.

Would you be interested in a trade? I send you a dozen saw plates and you send me back 6 just toothed?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

HandToolGuy said:


> Looks terrific! How does it cut? Smooth? Straight?
> 
> Like you, I have been fairly successful with rip saws. I have some junk cross cut to practice on and I have been working at it, but I can see that the road is long and progress is slow.


It cuts well but needs a bit more set because it starts to bind a bit at 3/4 o the plate.

The first saw in this thread is a cc saw. I don't think I mentioned it before now. It turned out to be pretty easy to manage once you get the muscle memory down.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I have only used the re-toother once. This is a manual hand crank machine. Let me see if I can get things together. I'll also need to check which tooth count I can punch out.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Sounds good


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I was just thinking and remembering. My grandfather used to sharpen hand saws on the side. He was a builder and cabinet maker by trade. On weekends he used to hand file saws. What I was remembering was the he only filed at a certain time of day. He had his saw vice set up in front of a garage window he would wait for the sun to reach a certain angle and then start his work. His vice was set at a comfortable height so that he could stand and file. I guess he could tell by the refection of light if the teeth were sharpened correctly. He used to do beautiful work.

I think he used to charge my father $2.00 to sharpen a saw. This would have been in the 50's or early 60's.


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## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

Fastback said:


> I was just thinking and remembering. My grandfather used to sharpen hand saws on the side. He was a builder and cabinet maker by trade. On weekends he used to hand file saws. What I was remembering was the he only filed at a certain time of day. He had his saw vice set up in front of a garage window he would wait for the sun to reach a certain angle and then start his work. His vice was set at a comfortable height so that he could stand and file. I guess he could tell by the refection of light if the teeth were sharpened correctly. He used to do beautiful work.
> 
> He probably only did it in a certain light to see if a fly landed on the teeth and he could wipe the blood off the teeth,them flys sure make a mess.:thumbsup just joking).


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

He never told me he only spoke french. I never got around to speaking it that well. Who knows may be it was flys he was looking for

Sometime I'll tell you about the ooh ooh bird.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Sounds like some good memories, fastback!

As a recap on the last saw - the handle still has quite a way to go.


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## strippedscrew (Oct 28, 2012)

A Heads-Up: If your really into sharpening old hand saws it may be a good idea to get this file set from LeeValley. (This is from the US site, since most of you are US'ers.)
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=69854&cat=1,43072,43089&ap=1


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