# What Style Push Stick Do You Use?



## Admin (Jan 4, 2010)

Let's talk about push sticks. Are some styles safer than others?

What style do you use? Did you make your own?

Share a picture if you would like! :smile3:



_Credit: Topic and image provided by Tony B_


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## UnisawGuy (Jul 20, 2014)

I use the shoe type of push sticks that are 12"-13" long, with the handle about a third of the way from the operators end of the shoe. I also use the saddle type that rides on the fence for ripping 5/16" or less. I prefer the shoe type because it holds the stock down along the length of the stock, and prevents my hand from slipping down towards the blade. 
I make my own.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Mine is basically like this. A little different shape but the same function.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I make my own. I dont worry about them getting chewed up. Every time I have scrap plywood, I simply make more. 

I have them in several different sizes and widths. The wider ones are for Dado cuts. I prefer a simple flat shape, tall enough to keep my fingers away from the blade. I dont like wrapping my fingers around anything, like a saw handle shape. Afraid of fingers getting moved if I get a kick-back. Would rather have the pushstick sent into orbit while moving my fingers out of the way.

I feel like the long skinny shape does not give much control of the workpiece although it is probably the most popular style

I hang them from my table saw so they arev always handy.


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

I have several shop made ones similar to those already shown however this is my favorite and most used..


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Like TonyB, I think the red popular store bought push stick is the most dangerous woodworking item on the market. It put pressure on the back of the work piece and tends to lift the front causing kickback. I still keep this one hanging near my band saw if I need to push something out of the way.

I prefer the thin long nose stick pictured below. It's cut from 1/2 inch plywood, the handle is as high as I want to make it and the long nose lets me put pressure on the front of the piece. I own an expensive "GRIPPER" but I don't like it around the table saw because I'm afraid of the blade catching it and twisting my hand down onto the blade. The "GRIPPER" is great for the jointer and router table.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

I'm building guitars so I made a guitar shaped push stick out of Walnut - seemed appropriate :thumbsup:


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

Cricket said:


> Let's talk about push sticks. Are some styles safer than others?


 
Yes. When used improperly or when NOT 'needed' to begin with - They can actually cause (or contribute to) accidents.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

difalkner said:


> I'm building guitars so I made a guitar shaped push stick out of Walnut - seemed appropriate :thumbsup:
> 
> That's cool, but where's the sound hole? :wink2:
> must be an electric.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> That's cool, but where's the sound hole? :wink2:
> must be an electric.


I'm an acoustic guy all the way but I didn't want a sound hole interfering with my push stick.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK, then.*



difalkner said:


> I'm an acoustic guy all the way but I didn't want a sound hole interfering with my push stick.


You could call it a "pick up" hole which would allow you to pick it up more easily.... just sayin' :wink2: It would allow you to insert your fingers to better control it also. DAMHIKT. :grin:


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## Getting better (Dec 3, 2009)

I have and use thr gripper on my table saw often. It's not what I always reach for but when the pieces are small or short, or if I'm concerned about the piece rising the gripper is the best/safest I have found .. Every time I use it I think to myself I really appreciate this tool. I highly recommend it


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> You could call it a "pick up" hole which would allow you to pick it up more easily.... just sayin' :wink2: It would allow you to insert your fingers to better control it also. DAMHIKT. :grin:


Now that's funny!! I may make another one and add some detail, maybe engraving for sound hole, fingerboard, frets, strings, bridge, etc. Of course, it might be that I wouldn't want to risk it hitting blade and won't use it -


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## Oakwerks (Mar 24, 2013)

BernieL said:


> Like TonyB, I think the red popular store bought push stick is the most dangerous woodworking item on the market. It put pressure on the back of the work piece and tends to lift the front causing kickback. I still keep this one hanging near my band saw if I need to push something out of the way.
> 
> I prefer the thin long nose stick pictured below. It's cut from 1/2 inch plywood, the handle is as high as I want to make it and the long nose lets me put pressure on the front of the piece. I own an expensive "GRIPPER" but I don't like it around the table saw because I'm afraid of the blade catching it and twisting my hand down onto the blade. The "GRIPPER" is great for the jointer and router table.


I have a Grripper, too, and agree, they're better suited for the router table, as they can't be used with the blade guard in place.... I do use the 1/8 inch leg for cutting strips....
This is the old pusher I've used for over 50 years.....


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Here is my preferred safety equipment, except for the glasses. I don't like that pair. 









Since this topic was about push sticks. Here are my preferred ones.


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## mat 60 (Jul 9, 2012)

You have it covered ..Nice


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

You can pick up one of these at Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010OWZYOU?psc=1


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## Bob Vaughan (Oct 29, 2008)

I keep a collection of shop made ones above my table saw. Some are long, some short, some have a big lug, some have a short one for 1/2" stock, most are grooved to some degree or another. When the lug gets too ratty, I'll rip down and put a new lug on. These things last for decades and keep my hands way above the blade. They also help kicking wood away from the blade. The long ones are really nice on the jointer for short stock. when the blade gets into the wood, all is fine. Plastic has a way of shattering and projecting hard projectiles back.


Existing photo, but you can see the sticks hanging from the ceiling. This is a design I think I got from the back of a 1970s Brodhead-Garret catalog.


The solid handle makes a significant difference. I've tried to get around the hand hole by just cutting it away. Its not the same and no where as rigid for the control you need. A 3/8 round over hand router bit makes quick work of making the grip area comfortable.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I see someone here is fully armed. 
Safety is something that should not be taken lightly.


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## Santa's Workshop (May 16, 2011)

I'm surprised to see no blade guards in place. Do you generally not use them on your table saws?


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Santa's Workshop said:


> I'm surprised to see no blade guards in place. Do you generally not use them on your table saws?


I wont answer this because this could possibly be a very popular topic.

I think you should make this a new thread. It might run into a surprising amount of replies. 

Just sayin'


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## Bob Vaughan (Oct 29, 2008)

Tony B said:


> I think you should make this a new thread. It might run into a surprising amount of replies.


 Excellent point about other types of table saw safety equipment. We're discussing push stick style here. The trend I'm seeing is that one style of push stick doesn't do all things for all woodworkers. There are very useful styles and sizes for the various wood cutting situations.

A power feeder on a table saw isn't a push stick but its a safety device that could also merit a separate thread.


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## Bob Vaughan (Oct 29, 2008)

Example of the wood push stick. I was ripping out some thin stock for drawer cockbeads. The blade cuts through the bottom of the push stick and through the lug. The lug maintains contact through the cut so the stock can be kicked free beyond the blade.

http://vid142.photobucket.com/albums/r118/rmvaughan/Table Saw/push stick - 1_zpsazetugyi.mp4


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

After I cut my thumb almost all the way off I made some changes in the shop. I built an out feed table and aligned and installed my guard on my table saw. Since I do more than 90% ripping I can leave it on pretty much all the time. But I also decided I needed a good push stick so I could try my best to not loose any fingers. I did a Google image search and found this one. I bought two. One with a flat rubber base and one with a V shaped base. Each came with both rubber strips for the bottom. Plus the end piece is spring loaded. The rubber grips wood even without the end piece.


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

I use the stick laying closest to the table saw, pads on the jointer. The only requirement for the stick is that it be thinner than the dimension being cut.

I don't have any dedicated push sticks, nor would I ever spend the time to make one.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I agree totally, however ....*










There are some times when this one works OK, so I have a few like it. The reason it is most dangerous, is that it only allows you to PUSH forward, but not add down pressure. The shoe types with handles do both and both forward pressure and downward pressure are necessary to keep the work flat on the table and to move it forward. 

The most difficult rips to manage correctly are narrow strips where you need to control the forward movement and keep them flat on the table. I use a sacrificial one for those and just saw right through it. I make several and I don't care if they chewed up.... better them than my fingers. :smile3:

You can see a few of mine in this photo:










I came up with this "L" fence for making narrow rips based on the Delta Unifence which can be used in two different height positions. Notice the tall position and the low position on the saw above. This lower position allow you to get your push block closer to the blade without having to squeeze it in between the taller fence:


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## Belg (Oct 2, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> I came up with this "L" fence for making narrow rips based on the Delta Unifence which can be used in two different height positions. Notice the tall position and the low position on the saw above. This lower position allow you to get your push block closer to the blade without having to squeeze it in between the taller fence:


This style might work even better to get a clear path.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*How so?*



Belg said:


> This style might work even better to get a clear path.



That's no different than the fence itself. It's equally tall and there's no better clearance between it and the blade... so I don't get your reasoning.


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## Belg (Oct 2, 2011)

I'm talking about the style of clamp to allow your hand more clearance using your style of fence.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

I haven't mounted a blade guard since high school....

I see some holes in TonyB's design - followed up on that. grabbed the pusher, then traced around my thumb and (other side) forefinger. the right side/forefinger hole is about 1/4 inch closer to the nose - the lengths of thumbs and fingers being different and all that.....

drilled with a Forstner but a spade bit would do.

oh - the wide bottom design is super. made one, luv it!


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

*Not sure I agree*

ThIs style actually allows for forward motion, downward motion and sideways motion, using one in each hand works rather well at times, right to the rear, left to the leading end just ahead of the blade.

It is what you get used to using, there is no magic bullet.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

This works great for me, especially when ripping thin strips.
I made a few different width feet for it. I can adjust the height, to give down pressure. Ripping thin strips is a breeze, using it.
The big knob, is just a handle.


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## Belg (Oct 2, 2011)

Pirate said:


> This works great for me, especially when ripping thin strips.
> I made a few different width feet for it. I can adjust the height, to give down pressure. Ripping thin strips is a breeze, using it.
> The big knob, is just a handle.


Pirate there is no key into the blue track it just rides on either side of the fence?


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Belg said:


> Pirate there is no key into the blue track it just rides on either side of the fence?


Yes, it just rides on the fence. Track is for kick back rollers, stop block, aux fence, etc.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

I'm surprised at how many people do not use a guard. It seems like the most dangerous thing you can do in a wood shop.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

an open blade does present danger.

what is more dangerous is trying to dangle hold the guard up while the saw is running - checking to see if the cut is where is supposed to be.....

in a production environment where a machine is set-up, the throughput measured & checked and then tens/hundreds/thousands of pieces run, a guard should be used.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

VIFmike said:


> I'm surprised at how many people do not use a guard. It seems like the most dangerous thing you can do in a wood shop.


I would call myself a novice woodworker even though I am 61 years old and spent a lifetime working in an industrial environment very little of that experience is woodworkers experience. I routinely watch YouTube videos as well as read what others write as part of the learning process. In all the woodworkers videos I have watched I have seen 1, just 1 blade guard in place.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*My TS guards are always changing ....*



subroc said:


> I would call myself a novice woodworker even though I am 61 years old and spent a lifetime working in an industrial environment very little of that experience is woodworkers experience. I routinely watch YouTube videos as well as read what others write as part of the learning process. In all the woodworkers videos I have watched I have seen 1, just 1 blade guard in place.













For a long while I didn't use a guard or a splitter. Then I understood how much a splitter holds the work against the fence to prevent kickback, but I didn't like the guard being in the way. I also wanted some dust collection off the blade, but I've gone away from that, but may come back. 

I came up with this simple 1/4" plywood 2 sided friction "guard" to prevent saw dust spitting into my face and to keep my hands away from the blade... at least while it's lowered. On this saw it's a real pain to align the splitter plate with the blade, so it stays as is.
I have a newer 10" Craftsman Hybrid where the riving knife is a snap in system and when I tilt the blade I use that saw. 

The ideal guard would be easy to remove and install, have saw dust collection built in, allow visibilty of the blade and be narrow to allow push sticks to pass between the guard and fence without removing it. :thumbsup:
Our member Marv has a cool system. Marv ....?


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Pirate said:


> This works great for me, especially when ripping thin strips.
> I made a few different width feet for it. I can adjust the height, to give down pressure. Ripping thin strips is a breeze, using it.
> The big knob, is just a handle.


Pirate,
I am unfamiliar with many of the Table Saw modifications, rails, etc.
I don't understand, at all, what I am looking at in your picture. I don't see a "push stick" anywhere. Can you show ... different angles? ... holding parts in your hand? something that gives my an idea of the contraption?

Please.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's shop built version of the Gripper*



Pirate said:


> This works great for me, especially when ripping thin strips.
> I made a few different width feet for it. I can adjust the height, to give down pressure. Ripping thin strips is a breeze, using it.
> The big knob, is just a handle.


This unit mounts to a rail sitting on top of the fence, a rectangular style, like a Biesemeyer. That way it can not move side to side only forward or back.













mikechell said:


> Pirate,
> I am unfamiliar with many of the Table Saw modifications, rails, etc.
> I don't understand, at all, what I am looking at in your picture. I don't see a "push stick" anywhere. Can you show ... different angles? ... holding parts in your hand? something that gives my an idea of the contraption?
> 
> Please.


It works in the same way, using a thin piece of plastic which is slotted for height adjustment, to push the thin workpiece between the blade and fence... NO separate push stick.

The Gripper is shown here, but there are many configurations you can assemble to do different operation. It allows forward and downward pressure simultaneously.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Okay ... I see the Gripper.
Forgive, but I still can't quite understand what I am looking at in Pirate's picture.

Is that part with the knob sliding along the top of the fence? With only the thin white plastic piece holding the wood?

It's like an optical illusion, with things out of scale or something. My mind just can grasp what I am seeing.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Push sticks? I worked for a guy one time that held his thumb up and said it doesn't look like 7/8" and preceded to rip a strip only to find out soon it was bigger than 7/8". It barely nicked him but he soon learned the use of a push stick. The guy was a jeweler that bought into a woodshop because he thought he wanted to do woodworking. By the time I worked there he had gotten out of the shop and spent most of his time in the office.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's a simple version*



mikechell said:


> Okay ... I see the Gripper.
> Forgive, but I still can't quite understand what I am looking at in Pirate's picture.
> 
> *Is that part with the knob sliding along the top of the fence? With only the thin white plastic piece holding the wood?*
> ...


These have different thicknesses of pusher plates for different thickness it needs to push along. They also slide on top of the fence,which should be a rectangular section like a Biesemeyer. See the small leg that comes off the bottom, to catch the wood and push it?


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Ahhh ... great picture. Makes perfect sense, now! Thank you.


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## Belg (Oct 2, 2011)

Pirate thank you for the response. I have trouble with the wood veering away from the fence when cutting very thin stock like this. Do you have a riving knife that keeps it on track for you??


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Belg said:


> Pirate thank you for the response. I have trouble with the wood veering away from the fence when cutting very thin stock like this. Do you have a riving knife that keeps it on track for you??



I just hand hold a piece of scrap wood against the stock, holding it against the fence, before the blade.
Have had no problems with it.
For ripping wider, long boards, or plywood, I use a Vega "stock feeder"
It's a canted spring loaded roller, and works great to keep stock down, and it holds it against the fence good. 
I don't use the anti kick back part, next to the roller. Never needed it.
Ripping with the roller, you don't have to try to keep it against the fence, after starting the cut. Just push it thru.
It's made to attach to the Vega fence. I modified it for my Jet Exacta fence, with t track
Picture below.


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