# restaining a mantle



## smartestblonde (May 15, 2010)

Hi,

We have a mantle that I want to strip and restain a darker color. It's about 3 years old and is a oakey color. I have NEVER even attempted to strip and/or stain a piece of wood, so I really would like some expert advice. I need instructions on the best (and ideally, easiest) way to strip as well as the best stripper and stain products.

I have included a pic of the mantle. 

Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Kara


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

There are a few types of strippers. The most effective would be an MC (methylene chloride) based stripper. It's fast, and very toxic. You would need plenty of ventilation, protective gauntlet gloves, face and eye protection, and preferably a respirator. The best I've used is called "Aircraft Stripper", in the blue can, available at auto paint and body retail stores.

There are waterbased stirppers that are more user friendly. One is called CitriStrip. It smells like oranges, can be used indoors, and cleans up with water. It works very well, but may take more than one application.

Then you have common solvents like lacquer thinner, or acetone, that could be used to remove finishes.

As for stains, you will probably prefer an oil base stain. Check the colors available, and buy a small can if you can to test it on some inconspicuous area. Stains take experimenting.


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## smartestblonde (May 15, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> *WELCOME TO THE FORUM*
> 
> There are a few types of strippers. The most effective would be an MC (methylene chloride) based stripper. It's fast, and very toxic. You would need plenty of ventilation, protective gauntlet gloves, face and eye protection, and preferably a respirator. The best I've used is called "Aircraft Stripper", in the blue can, available at auto paint and body retail stores.
> 
> ...


Many thanks....do you have a preference for a specific brand of stain? Also, do you recommend putting down some type of base before applying the actual stain?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Can't tell what the wood is in the picture. To make your project simple and easy, once stripped, if the wood looks blotchy, you may need a conditioner. But most likely just a quick sanding with 150x to 180x. 

You might just stick with an easy to find pigmented oil base stain. Sherwin-Williams, Cabot, and MinWax have good selections. These can be found in the home centers and paint stores. If you can find the small cans (1/2 pint), the cost of experimenting won't cost an arm and a leg and your first born.

For a final finish, you could just use a wipe on version of an oil base varnish, oil base polyurethane, or waterbase polyurethane. If you can't find any of those, just get an interior varnish, or oil base polyurethane and thin the first coat about 50% VM&P naptha (or mineral spirits). Sand in between coats with 320x. Remaining coats can be thinned 25%.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Since you're going to a darker shade, it might be easier to just use a darker Polyshades type stain/polyurethane mix. As opposed to stripping off the old finish, and sanding the stain down to the wood, prep for Polyshades would include just cleaning and scuffing up the surface a little.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Polyshades...A pox on you. :laughing:

Nasty uncontrollable stuff.


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

Leo G said:


> Polyshades...A pox on you. :laughing:
> 
> Nasty uncontrollable stuff.


I would have to agree. I tried this stuff just once and threw it away.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

All it does is leave streaks. Everytime you go over it, it gets darker and streakier.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I've gotten some good results from the Polyshades. You need to stir it frequently, keep a wet edge when applying, and avoid "rebrushing" once it's on. I also find it helps to thin it a little.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Stripping anything sucks. Applying a tinted poly or lacquer would be much easier, and in the end probably produce better results.

Stripping, sanding, conditionings, staining, and clear coating something that has a lot of curves, corners, and moulding like that ledge will take A LOT of work.


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## cusingeorge (Nov 17, 2007)

If you are looking to change the color of the wood (with as little effort as possible) you can look at aerosol toners.

Here is where I get mine:

http://store.gemini-coatings.com/c-235-toner-pigmented-aerosols.aspx

They have a transparent color card for their toners that allow you to lay the color across your wood and get an idea of what the color is going to look like before you buy a can. This is not a perfect system, but it does make things a little less unpredictable.


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

cusingeorge said:


> If you are looking to change the color of the wood (with as little effort as possible) you can look at aerosol toners.
> 
> Here is where I get mine:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the link George. I've never seen this stuff before. I can think of a couple of projects where this would have come in quite handy. Where were you then? :laughing:


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## cusingeorge (Nov 17, 2007)

JW_in_Indy said:


> Thanks for the link George. I've never seen this stuff before. I can think of a couple of projects where this would have come in quite handy. Where were you then? :laughing:


"Caught between the longing for love and the struggle for the legal tender"...

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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