# How to drill dimples for wood dice?



## imjtblanton (Jan 21, 2015)

I am looking for a drill bit that can drill out a dome-shaped impression on a piece of wood. I am trying to make wooden dice with the dots for the numbers drilled out of the wood. Ideally I'd like the dimples to be about 3/4" wide.

Here is an example:
https://www.amazon.com/Belknap-Hill...F8&qid=1468295791&sr=8-89&keywords=giant+dice

So what tool would make those dome-shaped impressions? I have a drill press and used a cone-shaped countersink. That worked, but was not very clean. As it got dull it got rough very quickly. It's also not the shape I was looking for.


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## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

Router bit?


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## imjtblanton (Jan 21, 2015)

Right after I finished this post I found this:
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-4969-co...&gdftrk=gdfV22404_a_7c1444_a_7c6865_a_7c45924

It says they are Core Box Router Bits. Can I put that into a drill press to drill out a dome-shaped impression? Also, there are 2 brands selling what appear to be the same bits. A cheaper version is available from Timberline and a more expensive version is sold by Amanda Tool. Is anyone familiar with these brands?


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Rocker has a bit for a drill, it is self centering if you use a template:

http://www.rockler.com/marble-drilling-bit


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## imjtblanton (Jan 21, 2015)

Reading the reviews it says that pieces get stuck in the drill bit after every use, and that it needs to be cleaned out. I would need something faster than that.

Would the router bits I linked to work? Could I just put them into a drill press and get a clean depression?


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## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

imjtblanton said:


> Reading the reviews it says that pieces get stuck in the drill bit after every use, and that it needs to be cleaned out. I would need something faster than that.
> 
> Would the router bits I linked to work? Could I just put them into a drill press and get a clean depression?


I don't think router bits will work in a drill press. Routers run at 5-10 times the highest speed of a drill press.


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## GeneT (Feb 24, 2014)

Jig_saw said:


> I don't think router bits will work in a drill press. Routers run at 5-10 times the highest speed of a drill press.


Router bits will work in a drill press but the finish will not be smooth due to the low rpm as Jig_saw pointed out. I once used a DP as a pin router for making slots for picture frames. Since the slots were on the back of the frame I wasn't too concerned about it. Maybe get the Rockler drill bit and dismantle it and use it on the drill press?

EDIT: Sorry but I replied before I even looked at the example dice. You can easily do that with a mini plunge router, core box bit, template guide, and jigs.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Not trying to persuade you one way or the other, the Rockler drill bit does tend to plug, more so in softwood than hardwood, I used it with a drill press and had to tap it with a foot log 1" dowel after about ten holes or so to release it. The advantage is the ease of using a template as long as it is made from thin material.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

I expect a small burr with a rounded head intended for use in a cutout tool or a dremel would function just fine for this application if mounted in a drill press.

oooppps.

I missed the 3/4 inch wide.

This would do it

link


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

I would use a ball end mill. You might have to try 2 or 4 flute to see which works better.

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Milling/End-Mills/Ball-End-Mills?navid=12106252


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I would suggest, if it hasn't already been suggested:
https://www.amazon.com/Double-Flute...468362004&sr=8-3&keywords=router+bit+core+box


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## imjtblanton (Jan 21, 2015)

Thanks to everyone for the help!

I should mention that I will likely need to make a few hundred of these dice. Each dice requires 21 holes to be drilled. So I may need to drill close to 1,000 holes. I'd like a bit that would last. I need to make them fairly fast, so I don't want to use a router and a template. I'd like to use my drill press. The countersink I used previously worked fine. The problems were that the hole wasn't very smooth, wasn't quite the right shape, and the bit got dull very quickly.

I was leaning towards the Ball End Mill. This:https://drillsandcutters.com/3-4-x-...LwHaN6GKnN5BSMl_bBehQwutN0i5r6bQwmxoCaSTw_wcB

The other thing I was thinking of buying was the Solid Carbide Bur. This product: https://smile.amazon.com/Drill-Amer...=rcol&pldnCrt=my-impact&qid=1468343737&sr=8-3

How well does the Carbide Bur work? I've never used one before. With all of those tiny blades it looks like it would make a very smooth cut. But it also looks like it would take a long time to push through the wood. Would this work with a drill press?


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

imjtblanton said:


> Thanks to everyone for the help!
> 
> I should mention that I will likely need to make a few hundred of these dice. Each dice requires 21 holes to be drilled. So I may need to drill close to 1,000 holes. I'd like a bit that would last. I need to make them fairly fast, so I don't want to use a router and a template. I'd like to use my drill press. The countersink I used previously worked fine. The problems were that the hole wasn't very smooth, wasn't quite the right shape, and the bit got dull very quickly.
> 
> ...


Haven't tried end mills with wood, working on metal if you are going straight down into the material you need a two flute bit, the four flute are generally used to come into the material from the side.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

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FrankC said:


> Haven't tried end mills with wood, working on metal if you are going straight down into the material you need a two flute bit, the four flute are generally used to come into the material from the side.


Actually 2 flute and 4 flute are aluminum and steel respectively. All end mills plunge and edge cut.

Obviously some variations to this but typical ROT...


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

shoot summ said:


> ```
> 
> ```
> Actually 2 flute and 4 flute are aluminum and steel respectively. All end mills plunge and edge cut.
> ...


Sorry don't agree, 2 flute to plunge, four flute to get a smoother surface. 2 fluted mills actually have one longer side to prevent wandering which is why they are called slot cutters.

Yes the 2 works better for aluminum than a 4 flute.

All that being said with a ball end in wood the argument is likely moot.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

The problem with a burr would be the tip, which is (1) a terrible cutting surface with all the "spirals" terminating there and (2) a terrible drill bit, with limited self clearing ability.

You could follow a rough cutting bit with a slightly larger burr to clean the hole, but then you're back to the time issue.
I was also going to mention making a wooden dowel bit with a round end. With a little sand in the hole, you could spin the bit into it and quickly sand the hole smooth. But you want quick, and that would not be quick. You'd get, maybe, one die with each bit you made, before it was also ground down.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

mikechell said:


> The problem with a burr would be the tip, which is (1) a terrible cutting surface with all the "spirals" terminating there and (2) a terrible drill bit, with limited self clearing ability.
> 
> You could follow a rough cutting bit with a slightly larger burr to clean the hole, but then you're back to the time issue.
> I was also going to mention making a wooden dowel bit with a round end. With a little sand in the hole, you could spin the bit into it and quickly sand the hole smooth. But you want quick, and that would not be quick. You'd get, maybe, one die with each bit you made, before it was also ground down.


A burr will load up.

This really is an application for a router bit, or ball mill. Run the drill press at a higher speed also.


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## Squadrey (Oct 29, 2016)

I'd use a hammer.


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## Tree Hugger (Sep 1, 2011)

If your concave spherical shape isn't written in stone, I would wonder if a regular 3/4" fostner bit might make for a unique dice


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Squadrey said:


> I'd use a hammer.


Id point out that reviving a dead thread is a terrible way to use your first post. Perhaps an introduction first?


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