# Best way to cut relief on back of casing



## maniac (Dec 27, 2010)

Hi all,

I'm trimming the windows and doors inside my house. I'm making my own casing from 1x4 poplar. I'd like to cut the relief on the reverse side of the casing to ensure the tightest possible fit to the jamb and wall. I'm wondering how other people cut that relief. 

I'd like to cut the relief 2 1/2 wide and about 1/8 deep. That would give me 1/2" feet on both edges of the casing. 

Ideally I'd like to do this with a router so I don't have to disturb the setup I've got on my other tools. So, in short, has anyone done this with a router? Can you describe the bit used and the setup?

Thanks
Maniac


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## A-1 Jim (Dec 27, 2010)

How about a router in a router table.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

Don't know what your tool arsenal looks like. If you have a table saw set up a dado stack. Set the fence run all your lengths. Move fence over just shy of the overall width of the stack and run all the lengths again. Repeat until you achieve your 2 1/2". Happy Trimming


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

maniac said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm trimming the windows and doors inside my house. I'm making my own casing from 1x4 poplar. I'd like to cut the relief on the reverse side of the casing to ensure the tightest possible fit to the jamb and wall. I'm wondering how other people cut that relief.
> 
> ...


*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

Set up a fence on a router table with a ¾" straight faced (mortising) bit. Allow a ½" space. Set the depth to ⅛", make a pass, turn the piece around and run the other edge. Then, move the fence about ⅜", and make the final pass. The final pass can be set so the bit plows the center.












 









.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

MastersHand said:


> Don't know what your tool arsenal looks like. If you have a table saw set up a dado stack. Set the fence run all your lengths. Move fence over just shy of the overall width of the stack and run all the lengths again. Repeat until you achieve your 2 1/2". Happy Trimming


Cabbie once again got my head straight. On the table saw set blade 1/2" from stack and run all your lengths. Flip board to other edge and run again now move fence again to take out meat left in the middle calculate setting so you can ru flip and run. This way you Just have two settings.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

MastersHand said:


> Cabbie once again got my head straight. On the table saw set blade 1/2" from stack and run all your lengths. Flip board to other edge and run again now move fence again to take out meat left in the middle calculate setting so you can ru flip and run. This way you Just have two settings.


It can be done on the table saw, but I understood a desire for a router set-up. 



maniac said:


> Ideally I'd like to do this with a router so I don't have to disturb the setup I've got on my other tools. So, in short, has anyone done this with a router? Can you describe the bit used and the setup?
> Thanks
> Maniac













 









.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> It can be done on the table saw, but I understood a desire for a router set-up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Gotcha my revelation was when you described flipping the board. This shows the importance of reading the entire post. I didn't read the last paragraph went right for the answer. Sorry jumped the gun.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

maniac said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm trimming the windows and doors inside my house. I'm making my own casing from 1x4 poplar. I'd like to cut the relief on the reverse side of the casing to ensure the tightest possible fit to the jamb and wall. I'm wondering how other people cut that relief.
> 
> ...


 
Hi - I think the best way to do it is on the router table. I have one of these bits, about 15 bucks on eBay and it works well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-1-3...469234954?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item1e6092890a

Set the bit height to 1/8" and the fence 1-1/4" behind the bit. Run the first pass, rotate the stock end for end and run the second pass.:icon_smile:


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

You really need to consider tool wear in general when you are in the design phase.Walking through each step in your mind and making good choices in equip,best practices.

In your case theres gonna be alot more wear on router than a TS with dado.Does it matter on onesy twosey?Probably not,but it is a consideration.BW


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