# Make it double, or a small tip for a multitool user.



## Ig Odin (Dec 6, 2014)

My buddies call me a "multitool addict", sometimes, for I really like this tool. It can quietly spend a year on your shelf, but one day it becomes indispensable, and you take it, and work. And keep wondering how you ever managed to do without. Then, you finish your project, put your multitool on the shelf... Untill next time. But the world has already become different, and you always will have one more way of doing this or that, as long as your quiet multitool lies in wait on its shelf.
So, about the "jig". One day, putting a new blade on the teeth of my Bosch, I lingered a bit and looked at the locking for quite a time:









Old dear screw locking, that is now considered to be outdated. But the teeth hight is enough... for two blades. Let's check... Ups, looks ugly and irrelevant:









But, what'll be there, if we take the blades off, clamp them together tight, drill them through, screw them together and position them back on the locking teeth?























We've got a jig, that looks like a chisel, can work like a chisel (oscillating one!), is stronger and more agressive, than a single blade. 
But the most pleasant thing about it is that it can be disassembled back, without any harm to its components. Whatever the reason for disassembling is, either you're not satisfied with the results achieved, or
you just need your blades for a separate work.
I've done the same with my MultiMaster (Fein). It works! But of course, each single blade should fit the locking system. 
Since nobody has set the limit for multitools working scope, this "jig" may become handy one day.:smile:

P.S. Some of my friends propose to weld the blades together. I say, nope! The screw and nut are the perfect pair here, for, by tightening or loosing them a little bit, you can regulate (well, not much, of course) the "toughness" of the jig.
As to number of oscillations, well, I've never tried it on a maximum. Say, if your multitool has regulation dial up to "6", then "5" and everything lower should be OK. And remember, that vibration is an enemy to "screw&nut" joints. So, "check the screws" from time to time.


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## phoenixbound (Nov 24, 2014)

or simply use loctite. The red version is quite tenacious!


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## Ig Odin (Dec 6, 2014)

phoenixbound said:


> or simply use loctite. The red version is quite tenacious!


:laughing: Then my two blades will stay one forever.:laughing:
Screw&Nut - is more flexible joining, and therefore - my choise.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Interesting tip... Not sure where I would need the double blades but I do use a multi tool a lot. I wore out a dremel in under two years so I upgraded to the Fein and haven't run out of uses for it yet. Still, It is a tip to keep in mind. Have to see if there is enough latitude for the drive to engage two blades. My 250Q has the quick release system so it may not engage two blades.


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## Ig Odin (Dec 6, 2014)

jschaben said:


> Interesting tip... Not sure where I would need the double blades but I do use a multi tool a lot. I wore out a dremel in under two years so I upgraded to the Fein and haven't run out of uses for it yet. Still, It is a tip to keep in mind. Have to see if there is enough latitude for the drive to engage two blades. My 250Q has the quick release system so it may not engage two blades.


I believe, it'll be OK, for my new MM 350 has that quick release system too, and todays "experiment" with double blade showed compatibility. :yes: Of course, each of the two blades was fit for MM 350 locking shape.
As to "where to use", one of my friends uses it for coarse shaping cuts in wood carving. Another one promised to try it on ice figuers. :smile:


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## Ig Odin (Dec 6, 2014)

Yet another benefit, that can be produced by "making it double".
So, we need, say, to set a sanding paper or another abrasive on our multitool delta shaped sanding pad. Yep, there is a layer of Velcro there and a corresponding layer on a triangular piece of abrasive. But, what if the abrasive you want to use does not have that Velcro? The answer can be like that. An additional triangular platform sitting on top of the sanding pad. Unfortunately, no quick lock or something of the sort, - just three screws. It makes the process of setting an abrasive, kind of, fiddly, for, depending on the multitool locking type, it might be necesary to set the locking nut/shift/whatever it can be first, and then adjust the abrasive. 
Another demerit is that you can't use your multitool standard dust suction nozzle, for the additional platform "eats" the space. 
But the range of abrasives to be used gets wider. 
Hope, the pics would be uploaded correctly. 


http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212929&thumb=1
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212937&thumb=1
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212921&thumb=1
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212945&thumb=1
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212913&thumb=1


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## hts1965 (Jan 19, 2016)

Maybe some enterprising machinist can come up with a set of adapters, maybe for larger sanding disks or diamond shaped for getting into tight corners, and bond the hook Velcro to them. Then all we need is a standard sanding sheet with Velcro and we can cut pieces out of them to fit the new adapters. Then we can all get rich.


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## Ig Odin (Dec 6, 2014)

I wish, we wouldn't stick to just sanding paper. Saying "abrasives" I meant a wide range of products. For instace, 3M Ultra Flexible Sanding Sheets. (http://diy.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-DIY-NA/DIY/Products/~/3M-Ultra-Flexible-Sanding-Sheets-and-Rolls?N=8696232+3293390774+3294529207&rt=rud)
It's hard to imagine such sheets with Velcro hooks, for the sheets will lose their ability to get twisted. And just the same about 3M sponges. But, having installed the additional platform on top of a sanding pad, one can use, for example, these 3M sheets and sponges, not waiting untill somebody glues Velcro hooks on them. That was the idea. Easy add-on, that can be mounted/dismounted, giving you freedom of wider choice, as far as sanding and polishing are concerned. Yes, polishing too.


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## Belg (Oct 2, 2011)

I have the Fein version and my only complaint about this tool is that the blade keeps coming loose. I have to constantly tighten the allen screw. Any tips to help this??


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## Ig Odin (Dec 6, 2014)

Belg, perhaps, you need something like Loctite 222 ( soft threadlocker, suitable for fastenings affected by vibration ). It wouldn't make any difficulty to driving the locking screw in and out. Then, a spring washer might serve well too. IMHO.


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## Ig Odin (Dec 6, 2014)

A small update to the topic. 
Just to enroll one more way of sanding narrow slots, using a patch of a regulal sheet sanding paper. 
So, first we go to a "holder", that'll clamp a piece of abrasive. It consists of two parts, two screws and two nuts. (Every thing is doubled, for we've been following the main topic line :laugh2 Each of the two parts used to be a regular blade, but was cut, shaped and drilled through:









And now, the two can become one piece. We lay the smaller part on top of the bigger, and the first pair "screw & nut" fasten the two into one:









So, we get a kind of pincers:









Let's get down to the abrasive, then! A piece of sanding paper, sized 60 X 60 millimeters, approximately (I'll get back to the size & foldings issue in the next post) is folded and put on the "pincers", in this way:









Now, we should puncture a hole right there, where the two parts are drilled through, and fasten everything together with the second pair "screw & nut":









Here I've run out of the maximum picture size limit, so the next post is coming soon. :smile3:


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## Ig Odin (Dec 6, 2014)

As to an abrasive patch folding, I do it this way:
















That is, each half of the the patch is double bended (along lines A-B & E-F), and then, I bend it along the centerline (C-D). Then, the pincers ends go through the folded piece right there, where the red lines are shown:









The length of the abrasive equals the pincers length plus 4-5 millimeters. There is no need to make it any longer, for, without the "internal" support of the metal part, it'll get torn away. RPM settings shouldn't exceed "2" (out of six), that is about 11000-13000 oscillations per minute.
The abrasive end can be rounded:


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