# Router table



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

What do you guys feel is the best surface for a router table? What do you use? What doesn't work well. What's going to last?

Al B

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Al,
I just built a router table. The top is two pieces of Baltic birch glued together, almost 1-1/2 thick. On the top of that I put a piece of high pressure laminate (Formica / Neva-mar / etc.) and edged the whole thing with white oak. I used a large round over bit to feather the Formica into the white oak.

BTW - Where were you 40 years ago, when all my tools were Craftsman? :smile:


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Thanks Rich

So do you drop the router in on a plate?

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> Thanks Rich
> 
> So do you drop the router in on a plate?
> 
> Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


 
Formica is likely the most cost effective top finish, baltic birch or mdf for the table itself. The finish should cover all six faces or, especially if using mdf, at least sealed well. I definately recommend using a plate. If you bolt directly to the top you will lose the difference between the top thickness and the plate thickness in router depth of cut. Routing a relief in the bottom of the table top sort of negates the purpose of having a thick top. :smile:


----------



## 63spyder (Oct 24, 2010)

I used solid surfacing with an eighth inch round over bit dedicated router ,seven years and very little wear.Works great


----------



## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> What do you [_group designation omitted_] feel is the best surface for a router table?


Order of preference:

1.) 1/4" thick Steel or Aluminum

2.) plywood torsion box


Not to use: MDF it sucks up water and takes on a permanent dishing bend bend over time.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Cliff said:


> Order of preference:
> 
> 1.) 1/4" thick Steel or Aluminum
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. 

I'm going with aluminum top 1/4",with a torsion box of mahogany. Mahogany has very little movement and I have acquired some free of charge. Now I just need to slick up the aluminum. Not a very slick metal.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Cliff

[group designation omitted] 

That's funny.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> I'm going with aluminum top 1/4",with a torsion box of mahogany. Mahogany has very little movement and I have acquired some free of charge. Now I just need to slick up the aluminum. Not a very slick metal.
> 
> ...


Hi Al - you do realize aluminum oxidizes (rusts) very quickly and will leave black marks on your project unless you keep it very well waxed or otherwise treated.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Al - you do realize aluminum oxidizes (rusts) very quickly and will leave black marks on your project unless you keep it very well waxed or otherwise treated.


Well thanks for the info. I have a metal background and do know about aluminum oxidizing. Do you know what anodizing is and how easy it is to guard aluminum from oxidizing which is nothing like rust?

Just sayin,

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## ShaneLyall (Jan 12, 2010)

I don't Al! LOL! Not trying to hi-jack but I have, well now my son has, a little 6 inch benchtop jointer with aluminum tables. All my machines are cast iron now but that jointer drove me nuts when I had it.

I used Johnsons paste was and it was O.K. but I used it alot. If I milled all my stock up and didn't use it for a couple weeks I'd have to re-wax it or I got those black marks on the first few pieces. My son will go a couple months between projects and has to clean it up every time as well. What can he do? 

Again, don't mean to hi-jack so I can start another topic or you can drop me a PM if you don't mind.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> Well thanks for the info. I have a metal background and do know about aluminum oxidizing. Do you know what anodizing is and how easy it is to guard aluminum from oxidizing which is nothing like rust?
> 
> Just sayin,
> 
> ...


Sorry - not in the habit of checking peoples bio's before posting information. Yeah, I know about anodizing and I also know that it can/will wear off... especially cheaper (translate to thinner) coatings. I have managed to fix a couple of plates that I wore out with Rustoleum appliance epoxy. 
Oh yeah, rust is iron oxide and aluminum oxide is uh.. aluminum oxide. Thus is aluminum oxide not aluminum rust???


----------



## SLAC_Engineer (Feb 23, 2012)

You can do a hard anodize that will hold up pretty good. But I'm sure you already knew that.


----------



## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

I use corian 1/4" thick which was a double sink cutout that I got from a cabinet shop. The cutout had 1” particle board backing and it is still holding up since 2001. The cutout was very expensive it was FREE and a thank you!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Unsupported 1/4" aluminum will deflect. and will mark up wood. I've always used mica on either industrial particle board or a smooth ply. A quickie top can be made from Melamine. I would support it. 









 







,


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Unsupported 1/4" aluminum will deflect. and will mark up wood. I've always used mica on either industrial particle board or a smooth ply. A quickie top can be made from Melamine. I would support it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh I don't think this table will deflect in the manor it was built. For one, and the main reason so many sag and deflect, the router is hung on the top. This one is on a lift that attaches to the cabinet. The Top opens for easy access to change bits. I will be anodizing the plate. I will be posting pictures in Design section. I didn't see any point in using particle board due to thickness and sag. Melamine is to thin and would ware out fast. Formica and the process is not very practical as I have none on hand and never use it in my projects. 

I'm just going to have to put up with the anodizing ware and re-coat when needed. Had I not gone this "route". I would have used solid surface material.

Thanks for the in put everyone was helpful.

Al B Thayer

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Sorry - not in the habit of checking peoples bio's before posting information. Yeah, I know about anodizing and I also know that it can/will wear off... especially cheaper (translate to thinner) coatings. I have managed to fix a couple of plates that I wore out with Rustoleum appliance epoxy.
> Oh yeah, rust is iron oxide and aluminum oxide is uh.. aluminum oxide. Thus is aluminum oxide not aluminum rust???


 Ferrous materials rust. Which is a process that continues until the metal is completely gone. Aluminum oxidizes and that oxidized layer acts as a protective layer and the oxidation stops. It's called Passivation. It is correct to say they both oxidize but incorrect to call both rust. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Roger Newby (May 26, 2009)

As far as what doesn't work well.........I believe cobblestone would be right up there. :blink::laughing:


----------



## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Hi Al - you do realize aluminum oxidizes (rusts) very quickly and will leave black marks on your project unless you keep it very well waxed or otherwise treated.


It ain't rust. Rust is iron oxide and is not aluminum oxide. Picking aluminum in a cold anodize process is a very easy DIY undertaking. Most sophisticated thing you need is a cheap 6 or 12 volt battery charger. Once you anodize it it's good for a very, very long time. 

Google: Anodize aluminum

There are pre-anodized aluminum router plates out ther for cheap too.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Cliff said:


> It ain't rust. Rust is iron oxide and is not aluminum oxide. Picking aluminum in a cold anodize process is a very easy DIY undertaking. Most sophisticated thing you need is a cheap 6 or 12 volt battery charger. Once you anodize it it's good for a very, very long time.
> 
> Google: Anodize aluminum
> 
> There are pre-anodized aluminum router plates out ther for cheap too.


Yep, those are the ones I wore out. Took about 14 months with a MLCS plate. I've got a more expensive plate with harder (thicker) anodizing that seems to be holding up better.


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

double lam substrate - good idea. high pressure lam on top - good idea. high pressure lam on bottom also - best idea. my first table _warped_ (>1/16" in 48" wide) because i did not seal bottom. had to beef up with angle iron underneath. pita. this will cause problems when routing long boards. painting or otherwie sealing bottom would also help. i use a drop in 3/8" lexan plate.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Here's a preview of the table and lift. Not finished yet.









This is the lift. 









pre-ano.

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------

