# How long for wipe-on poly to cure?



## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

I am finishing a project with some wipe-on poly. As instructed on the can, I let it sit for 4 hours before wiping on a 2nd coat. The 1st coat did not feel completely dry, but rather was cold and clammy to the touch, although it didn't feel like I was getting any of it on my hands while handling the piece. 

I put a 3rd coat on yesterday and let the piece sit for 18 hours. It still feels cold and clammy and not at all like the film build I was expecting. Is this normal for satin poly on walnut? I want a little bit of a film build and am planning on 5 or 6 coats, but I thought it should at least feel dry to the touch by now.

I also expected my rags to harden as the poly in them cured. After 2 days, my first rag has not yet hardened even though it is spread out.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

What wipe on poly did you use? Anytime a finish doesn't feel dry you shouldn't put another coat on so it might take a very long time to cure. I'm also wondering if the finish was stirred well?


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Here is an article by one of the early developers and proponents of wipe on finishing. Following it completely will lead to excellent results.

http://askhlm.com/WoodworkingArticles/tabid/91/Post/798/Wipe-On-Varnish


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. It is minwax wipe on poly oil based. The instructions wanted me to shake the can hard since it has a small pour spout in the lid, which I did. 

If I leave this until it feels cured, can I put brush on regular poly on top of it? I think I want the faster film build I the brush on formulation.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Masterjer said:


> Thanks for the replies. It is minwax wipe on poly oil based. The instructions wanted me to shake the can hard since it has a small pour spout in the lid, which I did.
> 
> If I leave this until it feels cured, can I put brush on regular poly on top of it? I think I want the faster film build I the brush on formulation.


You will get all kinds of answers to your question. Experimenting will show your results. If you shake the can that will produce bubbles. You don't want bubbles do you? Stir the can. With a wipe on, thin applications will provide a more uniform finish, and will cure faster. Finishing is your last step...don't rush it.


















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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

I have to with cabinetman on this one.Regardless of what the directions say ,always stir,never shake poly.I never use wipe on poly but it's still poly.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

I would ordinarily stir any finish, however, this is what I had on hand and the can has a small screw on cap that will not allow me to stir. The can looks like a can of mineral spirits - rectangular with a small opening in the top surface with a screw on cap. 

Thanks for the replies!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Masterjer said:


> I would ordinarily stir any finish, however, this is what I had on hand and the can has a small screw on cap that will not allow me to stir. The can looks like a can of mineral spirits - rectangular with a small opening in the top surface with a screw on cap.
> 
> Thanks for the replies!


I read the directions, and they do say 'shake'. Maybe they figure by the time you saturate an applicator the bubbles will dissipate. Or, maybe they added Nevr-Bubble®.:laughing:


















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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The way they package that product they don't leave very much options but to shake it. Sometimes if a product has set on the shelf in the store for a long time it takes a lot of agitation and you may not have shaken it enough. That is why they put a marble in rattle can paint to break up what is on the bottom of the can. What you could do is make your own wipe on polyurethane by taking brush on polyurethane and thinning it about 10% with mineral spirits and penetrol 50/50. The penetrol is a retarder thinner for oil based finishes. This will allow you more open time to work it. In a regular can it you would be able to stir it.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice. I have a can of Cabot poly that I may just thin and wipe on from here on out. 

FYI, even after shaking the can vigorously, I poured it into another cup and there were no bubbles. I guess I just have the technique down for a bubble-free shake.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

So I made my own wipeon by mixing some Cabot poly I had laying around with mineral spirits, about a 50/50 blend. 

I am much happier now. It is going on very smoothly and is looking great. Thanks for the help and I now know that the wipeon poly in the rectangular can is not or me. 

I also read that one application I wipeon is about equivalent to 1 coat of brushed. I have about 5 coats of the wipeon and it is starting to build a film. Ill shoot for about 9 coats.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Masterjer said:


> So I made my own wipeon by mixing some Cabot poly I had laying around with mineral spirits, about a 50/50 blend.
> 
> I am much happier now. It is going on very smoothly and is looking great. Thanks for the help and I now know that the wipeon poly in the rectangular can is not or me.
> 
> I also read that one application I wipeon is about equivalent to 1 coat of brushed. I have about 5 coats of the wipeon and it is starting to build a film. Ill shoot for about 9 coats.



That should work better than Minwax. Try thinning with Naptha instead of mineral spirits...it should dry faster.



















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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Masterjer said:


> So I made my own wipeon by mixing some Cabot poly I had laying around with mineral spirits, about a 50/50 blend.
> 
> I am much happier now. It is going on very smoothly and is looking great. Thanks for the help and I now know that the wipeon poly in the rectangular can is not or me.
> 
> I also read that one application I wipeon is about equivalent to 1 coat of brushed. I have about 5 coats of the wipeon and it is starting to build a film. Ill shoot for about 9 coats.


I hope it works out for you but most poly I've thinned 50% screwed up the sheen making it uneven. I never thin poly more than 10% but I haven't used Cabot polyurethane before.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> I hope it works out for you but most poly I've thinned 50% screwed up the sheen making it uneven. I never thin poly more than 10% but I haven't used Cabot polyurethane before.


Thanks Steve. I was going by the article posted in an earlier reply that suggested 50%. I'm assuming it is thinned so it will not only dry faster, but also level out better before curing. Are there other considerations?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Masterjer said:


> Thanks Steve. I was going by the article posted in an earlier reply that suggested 50%. I'm assuming it is thinned so it will not only dry faster, but also level out better before curing. Are there other considerations?


Usually when someone thins poly 50% it is on the first coat and is done so it penetrates into the wood better. From there it's been my experience the more you thin it the longer it takes to dry and is also more prone to run. I've also been told it breaks down the integrity of the finish to cut it that much. The only time I thin polyurethane is to spray it and then I see how little thinner I can use. Its usually so thick it orange peals as it's sprayed but its such a slow drying finish it flows out before it dries.


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