# Getting the most out of rented chainsaw for a day



## mackman (Mar 2, 2016)

Here's the situation:

Tomorrow I'm planning on renting a saw from Home Depot: http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Gas_Chainsaw_20/DCS642120Q/index.html
It's a Makita DCS642120Q...looks like 64cc and 20-inch chain. I'm going to be using it to cut chunks of black walnut from a truly enormous stump (five feet thick probably) that's on track to be burned later this week, so this is my one shot at getting some good slabs. I previously went out there with a borrowed Poulan Pro 42cc saw (16 inch chain I think), and I was able to get a couple decent chunks before it just...stopped cutting. The saw ran just fine, but it would cut INSANELY slow (to the point where I couldn't even cut all the way through a 4 inch branch that was in the way). 

So my question: How can I get the very most out of this rented saw for the day? I'm definitely a chainsaw novice and want to make sure I go out there at least moderately prepared. 

My main question is, *should I purchase an extra chain from HD?* Since I'll be cutting through solid walnut for most of the saw's length, is it likely to dull the chain to unusability in an hour or two, to the point where changing the chain would be necessary? Is changing the chain mid-job something that is commonly done?

I know I have to bring a wrench and screwdriver (or buy a scrench) to tighten the chain, and I'll also be bringing extra fuel (even though I can't find info on how big the tank is for the saw). But I really just want to make sure I have everything I need to make this last trip count...I want to get as much walnut as possible before it's burned. I appreciate any help you guys can give me.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Just how novice are you? Was that borrowed saw your only experience? Using a chain saw is dangerous work. What type of cuts are you going to attempt.

What turned out to be the problem with the saw that you borrowed. I would guess that dull chain was the problem.

I never went into the woods without extra chains, oil(chain and motor), fuel and wrenches that I would need. Do you know about oiling the chain?

Changing chains during the day is probably the norm rather than the exception if you will be doing much cutting.

George


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## mackman (Mar 2, 2016)

VERY novice. I've been doing general woodworking for three years now, but Saturday was my first time so much as touching a chainsaw. Didn't turn out TOO badly, though...the pictured slab is over 5 inches thick, 15 inches wide, and 40 inches long. Basically I just cut a couple chunks out of the stump...starting at the top and just working my way down along a straight line, then went to the next side of the stump and cut another long slice down it, so that the two cuts met at the end and dropped the slice out of the trunk. I had another MUCH larger chunk nearly halfway cut out when the saw gave out, and that's the same kind of cuts I'll be making tomorrow. 

I assume the issue was a dull chain, but then again, I am a novice. The chain was also quite loose at the end and I didn't have the tools to tighten it. 

It looks like the Makita I'll be renting is a self-oiling model, but it also says that it only contains enough oil for half an hour of usage, so I need to add that to the list of things to buy. So I just refill the oil every half-hour, and check to make sure it's releasing enough of it?

So buying an extra chain would be a good bet? The instruction manual says that a 3/8, .50 20 inch chain will work, so does that mean that something like this (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Care-20-in-G70-Semi-Chisel-Chainsaw-Chain-CL-35070PC2/203555727) would be a good buy?

Thank you SO much for your help here. Like I said...this is probably my last shot and I'll be kicking myself if I mess it up.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Get the chain that the rental agency sells. Do not go someplace else and get chain.

"I assume the issue was a dull chain, but then again, I am a novice. The chain was also quite loose at the end and I didn't have the tools to tighten it"

I would not assume as I expect that you have offered to pay for whatever is wrong and you would like to know.

George


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## mackman (Mar 2, 2016)

When I next see him, I'll explain what happened and offer to pay for it being sharpened or repaired as needed. 

For the chain, I actually just called Home Depot and apparently I can just rent an extra chain for $10, so that'll be ideal.


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## Dan3103 (Mar 24, 2015)

Running a chainsaw in hard materials makes it necessary to learn how to sharpen the chain. With the right tools (ie: file guide), it's not difficult or time consuming. Hardwoods are hard on chain and the edge goes quickly. Hitting anything that isn't wood also dulls the chain in an instant (dirt, rocks, nails, brick, for example.)

Paying to have the chain sharpened isn't horribly expensive, the last one I took into the shop was for a 32" bar and cost $12.50 to sharpen. It was pretty bad, the operator had put it into a rock and I didn't want to spend all day filing off the bad. A professional chain grinder makes quick work of that and saves you a bunch of time. 

After you get your cut started in the slab, consider tapping a plastic wedge or two into the kerf to keep the weight of the slab off of the blade. On a small hp saw, that extra advantage can make quite a bit of difference in the time it takes to cut through the slab.

Good luck, don't forget to post pics of what you make from the slabs!


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## mackman (Mar 2, 2016)

Dan3103 said:


> Running a chainsaw in hard materials makes it necessary to learn how to sharpen the chain. With the right tools (ie: file guide), it's not difficult or time consuming. Hardwoods are hard on chain and the edge goes quickly. Hitting anything that isn't wood also dulls the chain in an instant (dirt, rocks, nails, brick, for example.)
> 
> Paying to have the chain sharpened isn't horribly expensive, the last one I took into the shop was for a 32" bar and cost $12.50 to sharpen. It was pretty bad, the operator had put it into a rock and I didn't want to spend all day filing off the bad. A professional chain grinder makes quick work of that and saves you a bunch of time.
> 
> ...


I definitely would learn how to sharpen if I were intending on purchasing a saw. Heck, if I find another orchard in the future (my dad is already talking about looking for one), I might just do that. But for now, i think paying $10 for an extra chain for the day will be sufficient. 

That's an excellent tip with the wedges. The stump is actually on it's side, though, so I'm cutting from top to bottom rather than side to side. I'll post pictures tomorrow if I manage to get anything (at the very least, i should be able to get a chunk 14x14x40, which would be excellent).


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## freedhardwoods (Sep 7, 2008)

mackman said:


> I was able to get a couple decent chunks before it just...stopped cutting. The saw ran just fine, but it would cut INSANELY slow (to the point where I couldn't even cut all the way through a 4 inch branch that was in the way).


I would guess you got the chain in the dirt to get it that dull. You need to be able to sharpen. Even pros that don't get into foreign material touch up the chain several times a day to keep it sharp.


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## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

Be careful! Don't let anyone approach you while sawing. Ripping is always more of a pain than cross cutting, makes long chips that plug the works. Usually adding mixed gas and bar oil take place about the time the gas runs out. If the chain gets loose, snug it! Unless you hit something or there is a lot of dirt in the bark a chain will stay sharp for 4 hours or so. The rakers on the chain need to be taken down periodically it you sharpen yourself. Sawing is hard work!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*rent extra chains*

At $10.00 per chain it's worth it to stay in the game/cutting. Sharpening a chain with a hand file is just about as easy as it gets. You can match the angle IF you have a good eye Or use a small metal guide. Files are cheap. I use a Dremel/high speed grinder with a chainsaw stone. I have 5 or 6 chain saws and it's too expensive to have them sharpened, so I taught myself how. There are "thin kerf" chains and "full kerf" chains. There are "safety chains" and NOT.
The NOT type are much faster cutting as they take a bigger bite.
Ripping is much slower with a safety chain. Ripping slabs is more time consuming than cutting cross cutting large diameters.


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## Max Rockatanski (Jun 22, 2017)

In the event anyone tries this type of job in the future, be sure to use a "ripping chain" for the chainsaw as such a chain is the proper tool for cutting with the grain. Using the proper tool is the first step toward safety. When dealing with chainsaws, safety is the only path to follow. Hope the walnut stump job was a success. Please post pics if you survived the experience.


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## mackman (Mar 2, 2016)

Max Rockatanski said:


> In the event anyone tries this type of job in the future, be sure to use a "ripping chain" for the chainsaw as such a chain is the proper tool for cutting with the grain. Using the proper tool is the first step toward safety. When dealing with chainsaws, safety is the only path to follow. Hope the walnut stump job was a success. Please post pics if you survived the experience.


I did indeed survive, and was able to get a couple large chunks (probably about four feet long and 16 inches wide and high). Unfortunately, my mill guy is out of commission (hopefully temporarily) and I don't have a chainsaw suitable for cleanly ripping them into slabs. (Also unfortunately: I don't have pics of the slabs I cut.)

A question about the "ripping chain": I did some initial research on this, and I read that a ripping chain is not advised for "free-handing" with a saw...that is, a ripping chain should only be used in conjunction with a chainsaw mill, as otherwise it's just too difficult to control. Is that not the case? I know it's not advisable to leave lumber in chunks for any longer than you have to, so I'll definitely be looking into ripping the chunks into slabs when I have the time and money.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Never saw a ripping chain anywhere in all my years. Do you have anywhere else to deal with than HD? I had a real bad experience with our local HD and haven't been back in over 4 years. Good luck with your purchase. Sometimes rental items aren't cared for by the renters.


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## Max Rockatanski (Jun 22, 2017)

Re: ripping chain use . . . yes one would want to only use a chainsaw mill with it for many reasons, but precise, linear cuts is the first that comes to mind. Chainsaw mills are, relatively, inexpensive. You can also research "Alaska/n Mill". 

Re: Never heard of ripping chain, it is more of a west coast thing due to differences in the logging industry between the coasts I suspect. On the west coast one is more likely to encounter larger old growth and larger species of trees that can be milled efficiently on site by a hobbyist/craftsman/niche market logger in the routine course of a full time job. East coast logging is more about tree farms cutting trees of a certain age, lifting them onto a combination vehicle then transporting them to the mill. I have a source in CA that makes the ripping chain to order. Not exactly endorsing them, but they have done good by me. It is not hard to find one for purchase online. One must know the pitch and gauge of the chain you use. Best idea: Call the vendor and they can talk you through it. 

Bummer about the lack of photos.

Please, always use the correct tool for the job. Chainsaws are deadly. One mistake is all it takes to end your life. One can bleed out before first responders can arrive. Proper gear and preparation is essential, but a layman can do a great job with a clear head and proper preparation. Such would include being realistic about one's limitations. Watch some YouTube videos with a "grain of salt". And never use a chainsaw alone please.


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## mackman (Mar 2, 2016)

Max Rockatanski said:


> Re: ripping chain use . . . yes one would want to only use a chainsaw mill with it for many reasons, but precise, linear cuts is the first that comes to mind. Chainsaw mills are, relatively, inexpensive. You can also research "Alaska/n Mill".
> 
> Re: Never heard of ripping chain, it is more of a west coast thing due to differences in the logging industry between the coasts I suspect. On the west coast one is more likely to encounter larger old growth and larger species of trees that can be milled efficiently on site by a hobbyist/craftsman/niche market logger in the routine course of a full time job. East coast logging is more about tree farms cutting trees of a certain age, lifting them onto a combination vehicle then transporting them to the mill. I have a source in CA that makes the ripping chain to order. Not exactly endorsing them, but they have done good by me. It is not hard to find one for purchase online. One must know the pitch and gauge of the chain you use. Best idea: Call the vendor and they can talk you through it.
> 
> ...



Found one! It's not great, but you can see the two big chunks as well as a couple more interestingly-shaped pieces. I just heard back from my mill guy, and it's looking like it'll be better for me to just buy a chainsaw and slab them myself. Any advice beyond a ripping chain? (I think i'll make a separate thread about the chainsaw).


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## Max Rockatanski (Jun 22, 2017)

That pic is great. Were you thinking to turn them on a lathe after squaring them off? I would not try to chainsaw mill them as they are shown here. Too small and difficult size. Best to be milled by a bandsaw mill. Nice job. Good luck.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I just replaced the chain on a cheapo Aldi electric 14" saw and the difference was night and day. $15 Oregon chain from HD did the trick..
I kind of wish I had a much longer bar and chain, but I don't have enough trees on the property to justify the expense. 99% of what I have to cut is overgrown bushes and weed trees. New chain was still nice to have.


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## mackman (Mar 2, 2016)

Max Rockatanski said:


> That pic is great. Were you thinking to turn them on a lathe after squaring them off? I would not try to chainsaw mill them as they are shown here. Too small and difficult size. Best to be milled by a bandsaw mill. Nice job. Good luck.


No lathe for me...in addition to being super pricey, they kinda freak me out. I was more thinking of cutting the round chunks into slices for side tables and/or trays, or something like that (although I understand that "cookies" are a lot more prone to cracking and splitting?). 

Just curious, would you include the two more flatter, regular chunks in your "no chainsaw" recommendation? I know that a chainsaw mill wouldn't work on the other pieces, but the two left-most pieces seemed ideal candidates, I thought.


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## Max Rockatanski (Jun 22, 2017)

*Chainsaw for cookies*

I would not do it. Admittedly, I suppose with the proper preparation, anything is possible. However, it seems ill advised to me. First, the cost of a chainsaw mill is approximately minimum $200.00. If you have little need to purchase a new chainsaw, you have less reason to purchase a chainsaw mill. Second, the wood pieces MUST be secured from movement during the act of sawing them right? That's not easy to do with an odd shaped chunk of wood. For you, transportation of these pieces is a luxury. By contrast, They are not a giant tree trunk no layman could transport with ease. All things considered, I would transport them to a sawmill guy and let him do it safely for what would inevitably be a small price. A band saw mill would give you clean, precise cuts. I can't imagine the miller/sawyer would charge more than $20-$40 for the sawing. 

Re: the cookies splitting, use this valuable forum to 1) research ways to prevent splitting, and 2) the use of butterfly joints. if you incur a split, make it work for you by giving the cookie some character via a butterfly joint or two.


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