# Briwax Filler Stick as Grain Filler?



## DeWayne Hayes (Feb 19, 2011)

Hello folks,

First time posting. My main interest in woodworking is in making gunstocks and pistol grips. Along this line, searching for the right finish has always been something of a quest for me, as I hate the plastic-looking finishes like Tru-Oil, and have a hard time keeping dust and imperfections out of quick dry wipe on poly. My favorite finish at this point is something called Dembart Continental Stock and Checkering Oil. It's easy to work with and makes a nice low sheen finish, that if you desire, can be built up quickly as shiny as you'd like, without ever looking like plastic, in my opinion.

Here's my question though. I work sometimes with Claro Walnut, which often has huge, open pores that need filling. I discovered sort of by accidental experimentation that Briwax wax filler sticks (which are generally used to fill a gouge, etc.) seem to make a great one-step grain filler. For instance, I'll use a mahogany stick, keep it warm with a flame and smear/pack the entire surface of the piece I'm working on. Then you scrape off the wax with the little plastic spatula, leaving the grain filled. Then I sand with 400 grit to remove wax from the surface, still leaving the grain nice and flush.

When I apply my stock oil, the very surface of the wax in the pores erodes a little, but this turns out to look completely natural - like grain filled with gunk from an oil finish. The results have been very nice, and very natural looking. I'm attaching a picture of what it looks like under a jeweler's loupe. 

Has anyone ever tried this, or do you see any problem with having wax underneath an oil finish (strictly in the pores)? Thus far, I' have it under both oil finishes and wipe on poly, and have never had any back out on me or cause a failure of the finish to adhere. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this concept, as it's purely an experiment on my part, but one that seems to be a quick, easy way to get the pores filled.

Thanks,
DeWayne


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

i think a grain filler would be easier to use. though the stick are good for small, or few spots, nail holes.


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## DeWayne Hayes (Feb 19, 2011)

Maybe I've never bought the right kind of grain filler then because I've always found them to be pretty ineffective; hence my looking for something more solid to stay in place. Do you have a recommendation for a good one-step grain filler? 

DeWayne


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The filler pen is basically a wax base. Not a good preparation to add a finish. Regular grain fillers, AKA paste wood filler, does exactly that...fills the grain. It can then be stained and finished or just finished.
http://www.constantines.com/pastewoodfiller.aspx
http://woodworker.com/natural-por-o-pac-mssu-843-826.asp
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004493/BEHLEN-WaterBased-Grain-Filler.aspx

It's available in both solvent and water bases.












 







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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

there ya go, that was easy.


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## DeWayne Hayes (Feb 19, 2011)

I appreciate the recommendations, but I still feel like the Briwax method I'm talking about is much faster. I can have a piece of wood prepped and ready for finishing in 20 minutes, there's no "dry time" required. I realize the notion of wax under finish seems counterintuitive, but it hasn't failed on me yet. I was just wondering if I was the only one doing this and I guess I am. Thanks for the input.

DeWayne


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

DeWayne Hayes said:


> I appreciate the recommendations, but I still feel like the Briwax method I'm talking about is much faster. I can have a piece of wood prepped and ready for finishing in 20 minutes, there's no "dry time" required. I realize the notion of wax under finish seems counterintuitive, but it hasn't failed on me yet. I was just wondering if I was the only one doing this and I guess I am. Thanks for the input.
> 
> DeWayne


 And that's that.:smile:












 







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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

That looks like the fore end of a Winchester Model 63 22, but the rear sight seems too far forward.

What are we looking at.

George


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## DeWayne Hayes (Feb 19, 2011)

George, that's a Winchester Model 1892 saddle ring carbine I was having Doug Turnbull restore for me. Saved a couple grand by doing the wood myself! I'm pleased with the finish, it matches the finish Turnbull used on a Remington side-by-side he did for me in the early 90s. 

DeWayne


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Beautiful work on that Winchester. WOW! Saved 2 grand. He must be very expensive. You did nice work on that wood.

That is an interesting knife handle in the third picture. Looks like an antler butt followed by leather rings.

George


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## DeWayne Hayes (Feb 19, 2011)

Thanks much, George. Yes, Turnbull's expensive, but he's the best as far as color casehardening, rust blueing, preserving markings, etc. When he has to make new wood for a gun though, the price gets crazy, so that's where I try to trim some cost by sourcing, fitting and finishing my own. 

The knife is a Marbles - I didn't have anything to do with it, just thought it looked nice!

DeWayne


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