# Air Filtration System- run all the time?



## BigGorillaGunworks (Mar 1, 2015)

I'd read somewhere, by someone... that did not advocate running an air filtration system all the time while in the shop.

Here's my setup..
Wood and metal working, 550 sf shop.
The wood working consists of custom gunstocks cut on a dual-router duplicator. I've constructed a separate, small "cutting room" for the duplicator table- these things throw chips and sawdust EVERYWHERE. Dust "collection" is a misnomer for these machines- best option is to contain (and wear a respirator). I do have a 1000 cfm dust collector with inlets in the room- exhausting to the blower unit itself which is in the main shop area with a 5 micron Rockler bag.

The blower/bag is located outside the room primarily to provide air exchange for "cooler" shop air to replace the exhausted air. The room is just large enough for the table, and me- at 6' x 8'- and the heat generated by the two routers, PLUS the dust collector would just be too much in that enclosed room. So, I've opted to have cooler, conditioned air from the main shop act as makeup air as the dusty air is sent through the 5 micron bag into the main shop. This room has a zippered, visqueen opening that is kept closed all the time, and the respirator will be worn at all times before entering.

Before going further- let me clarify...I am in Florida....
*Exhausting outside is NOT an option*. It's 95 degrees most of the year with humidity that will choke a frog.

So, now for part two...

I have just installed a Jet AFS 1000, to filter out what the 5 micron bag spits out- as well as metallic dust from the metalworking/grinding operations (yes, that's OK- spoke with Jet technical support).

In addition, I will run a 1000 cfm exhaust fan to the vented attic space or out the door each morning for five or ten minutes to exchange some fresh air. 

So that's my deal- main question is, is there any reason NOT to run the Jet all the time while in the shop? Whenever I'm actually cutting wood, or grinding/polishing I'm always wearing a respirator. Just can't see any downside to running it all the time.

Any other suggestions for consideration appreciated.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I don't run mine 24/7*

I have an exhaust fan, rarely used, as well as the Jet AFS 1000, used when sanding.

If I were you I's look into a small Dust Deputy or other cyclone separator. Your confined space duplicating room just seems overwhelmed by that operation and need a separated DC of it's own. Cannister filters are way better, with a separator ahead of the unit to drop out the large chip and as much of the fines as possible. 

You also need a good respirator that fits well. 

The Jet ASF 1000 filter clogs up readily in my shop even used infrequently. So if you run it full time, make certain you have a supply of filters and maybe a prefilter ahead if the intake. The only trouble is... touch the filter and you have a dust storm anyway. 
Some here use a leaf blower and open the shop doors and windows once a week, blowing it all outside.

Gunstocks have some exotic woods that may present some respiratory hazards...just beware, of course. The Jet is pretty powerful and may also create a circular air flow of fine dust just blowing around the shop, I donno? It feels that way in my 750 sq ft shop. :yes:


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## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

I have 2 20" box fans set up with filters and run them all the time I am in the shop working. :thumbsup:


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

BigGorillaGunworks said:


> So that's my deal- main question is, is there any reason NOT to run the Jet all the time while in the shop? Whenever I'm actually cutting wood, or grinding/polishing I'm always wearing a respirator. Just can't see any downside to running it all the time.
> 
> Any other suggestions for consideration appreciated.


 
There is no downside that I can see. You will spend less time cleaning / repairing the switch contact points by NOT switching it on and off as frequently and those motors tend to last a LONG time even if run continuously.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

I think the only downside is electricity costs. And cleaner air i suppose


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Most duplicators I've worked with utilized downdraft systems.It's a gravity thing.Best of luck with your project.


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## jdonhowe (Jul 25, 2014)

There's no harm in running- other than electricity and wear on the air cleaner motor, but you rapidly reach diminishing returns.

Say your 550 sq ft shop has a 10 foot ceiling (to make the math easier), so you have 5550 cu ft of air. The Jet AF 1000 filters 98% of 5 micron and 85% of 1 micron particles. At low speed, it filters 550 cfm, so every 10 minutes it will filter the air in your shop once.

Assuming equal efficiency with each pass through, after 10 minutes, 85% of 1 micron particles will be trapped, 97.75 % after 20 minutes, 99.66% after 30 minutes, and 99.95% after 40 minutes; you'll never get to 100%.

I'd say just set the timer to 2 hours when you leave the shop.


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## hokeyplyr48 (Nov 12, 2013)

Have you considered replacing the 5 micron bag? Honestly 5 microns isnt really trapping any of the fine dust you'll see accumulate on things in the shop. Switch that out with a cannister filter or a higher quality bag (1 micron or less), combined with some of the suggestions above and you should see a noticeable improvement


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

hokeyplyr48 said:


> Have you considered replacing the 5 micron bag? Honestly 5 microns isnt really trapping any of the fine dust you'll see accumulate on things in the shop. Switch that out with a cannister filter *or a higher quality bag (1 micron or less),* combined with some of the suggestions above and you should see a noticeable improvement





















Honest advice there in MY opinion... :yes:


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## hokeyplyr48 (Nov 12, 2013)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Honest advice there in MY opinion... :yes:



Is this sarcasm? What do the church pics have to do?


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

hokeyplyr48 said:


> Is this sarcasm? What do the church pics have to do?


No sarcasm. Sounded like you know a bit of what you are talking about here.

A majority of members here have no idea that such 'higher quality' bags even exist as they are accustomed to china garbage and mistakenly believe that that is 'as good as it gets' with a bag. 

The pictures show how easy it is to have opposing views on a topic. :smile:


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## hokeyplyr48 (Nov 12, 2013)

OnealWoodworking said:


> No sarcasm. Sounded like you know a bit of what you are talking about here.
> 
> A majority of members here have no idea that such 'higher quality' bags even exist as they are accustomed to china garbage and mistakenly believe that that is 'as good as it gets' with a bag.
> 
> The pictures show how easy it is to have opposing views on a topic. :smile:



Ahh gotcha. It blows my mind why people even use a 30 micron bag. That literally does nothing. You can see the dust flying through it if you watch. 

My personal recommendation is the cannister filter. Provides exponentially more surface area as opposed to the filter bag. And you're going to have an extremely hard time finding a really good quality filter bag for a decent price. But some people still prefer them, so to each his own!


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## BigGorillaGunworks (Mar 1, 2015)

jdonhowe said:


> There's no harm in running- other than electricity and wear on the air cleaner motor, but you rapidly reach diminishing returns.
> 
> Say your 550 sq ft shop has a 10 foot ceiling (to make the math easier), so you have 5550 cu ft of air. The Jet AF 1000 filters 98% of 5 micron and 85% of 1 micron particles. At low speed, it filters 550 cfm, so every 10 minutes it will filter the air in your shop once.
> 
> ...


Here's the mental dilemma... as woodnthings said in his post,



> The Jet is pretty powerful and may also create a circular air flow of fine dust just blowing around the shop, I donno? It feels that way in my 750 sq ft shop.


When I'm grinding/finishing metal at one end of the shop- or sanding wood at another- is it best to keep air movement minimal and let what will settle, settle- and turn on air filtration to catch airbornes when completed, or keep the air moving at all times?

Part of my objective is too keep airbornes from spreading and settling to another part of the shop- as in where my desk is located...
I know some of this inevitable, but what's the best way to *minimize* it? Continuous, or sporadic?

Also... I have a Rockler 5 micron bag on the dcs- does anyone make a 1 mic bag?


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

BigGorillaGunworks said:


> I know some of this inevitable, but what's the best way to *minimize* it? Continuous, or sporadic?


Continuous, or sporadic airflow is still air flow. The only one that can answer that question is you with some testing and following a process that you determine has the least contamination. What is your acceptable level of contamination? If you want an absolute answer...as you mentioned in your initial post, walls will work. Both temporary and permanent walls will reduce the contamination. 

I have a temporary plastic wall that separates one of my garage bays from the rest. I can roll it up to the 9' ceiling on pulleys and rope, like an awning. I used to use it to keep the sanding dust in one garage bay. Once I started using a downdraft table and a sander with a dust port, I stopped using the plastic wall.

Keep us posted of your solution.


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## jdonhowe (Jul 25, 2014)

> is it best to keep air movement minimal and let what will settle, settle- and turn on air filtration to catch airbornes when completed, or keep the air moving at all times?
> 
> Part of my objective is too keep airbornes from spreading and settling to another part of the shop- as in where my desk is located...
> I know some of this inevitable, but what's the best way to minimize it? Continuous, or sporadic?


The best way is to turn on your air cleaner just before you start creating dust (metal or wood). What you want to do is have controlled spread of dust- by creating air flow your cleaner will "steer" most of the dust toward the cleaner, where is will hopefully be trapped. 

It makes no sense at all to me to let dust settle before turning on the cleaner. You're going to have to spend a lot of time cleaning wherever the dust has settled, and the greater distance the dust will spread. Remember, the smaller the particle, the longer it will be suspended in air. Instead, let your cleaner suck up the dust while it's being thrown into the air.

The short version of my lengthy earlier rant is that most filtration occurs right after your cleaner is turned on. So, my answer to continuous or sporadic is: "sporadic"- if sporadic means simultaneous to whenever you create dust, and lasting 20 to 30 minutes after you finish creating dust. Just my .02


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