# Super sharp fixture for planer blades



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I tried a few fixtures and stones. Sent my blades out. Then one of the members inspired me to build this fixture.

1) very easy to build
2) very accurate 
3) easy to adjust
4) works on blades as long as 20"
5) no need to send them out.
6) darn dirt cheap parts found on eBay.

Al B Thayer









95% complete. just need to finish the base that holds the plate.

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Started by machining a slot for the knife and tapping the holes for the cap plate to hold them in.









Adjusting the angle by turning the bolt to scissor the legs in or out.









Here the fixture is rotated up to examine the progress and to insert knives. This rotates on a bearing so the angle setting stays the same. 









This is a view from the back.

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Cool!*

I knew you could/would do it! :laughing: bill


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Bill
It wouldn't have happened if I hadn't found the bearings 2 at 6" for $12 for both. Their metric so I had to find a 4040 rail.

Thanks 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

*I want one!*

You impress me more and more, AL. I am ready to get my blades sharpened, and was about to send them to darren when I heard that he doesn't do it anymore. I like this set up, and I really want to make it soon.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

thegrgyle said:


> You impress me more and more, AL. I am ready to get my blades sharpened, and was about to send them to darren when I heard that he doesn't do it anymore. I like this set up, and I really want to make it soon.


Thanks
Feel free to message me with any questions. I would expect others to build a better fixture and expound on this one. Many times I see a fixture someone has built and connect with it but find one or two aspects I don't like or don't have resources for their choices of material. 

I like passing on the 8020 material because I feel it's uses are limitless for woodworkers.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

thegrgyle said:


> You impress me more and more, AL. I am ready to get my blades sharpened, and was about to send them to darren when I heard that he doesn't do it anymore. I like this set up, and I really want to make it soon.


Hey Fabian,

There is a local sharpening guy out of Dekalb that makes a weekly run this way. He picks up and delivers and the price is good.

Let me know if you want more info.

Thanks.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

After removing my 13" planer blades and 8" jointer blades and sharpening them with the super sharp fixture. I am now joining and surfacing wood like the tools were brand new.

Anyone wanting to enjoy the freedom of sharpening your own blades should consider this solution using these 8020 slides and rail.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

@ Tom.... That is good to know. I would like that info when you get a chance.

@ Al.... I am happy to hear that this worked out real good for you. IT is always nice to work with sharp tools once again.... Reminds me when I first sharpened my chisels after purchasing my WS3000.... 

If you don't mind me asking..... What kind of sandpaper did you use? Did you use a few different grits? did you do it wet or dry?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Tom

I really have no way to express how well this sharpens my blades. How fast and easy it works. How accurate it is. All I can say is I will never send my blades out again. If others build one like this or something like this one they will also never need to send out again.

I placed a brand new set in the fixture that were ready to go in the planer. I found out they were not sharp, flat or true. Zip zip and now they are perfect. 

I can lay sandpaper on plate glass under it and use that. I can set a diamond stone or any stone under it. A piece of leather to finish. I look at the results and snicker. Three 13" blades took 20 minutes or less.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

Hey Al,

Nice looking jig. Could you explain a bit more about the "bearing" you used? Is the carriage that holds the blades the bearing, or is it something else? 

You wrote: "It wouldn't have happened if I hadn't found the bearings 2 at 6" for $12 for both. Their metric so I had to find a 4040 rail" Is this what you are referring to: ebay ?

Thanks.

Greg


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Greg in Maryland said:


> Hey Al,
> 
> Nice looking jig. Could you explain a bit more about the "bearing" you used? Is the carriage that holds the blades the bearing, or is it something else?
> 
> ...


Thanks for the nice comments. I was referring to the linear bearings that hold the knives that slide on the rail.

Here are some other pictures of the fixture that make it work so well and adjust so easy. Of course This is my first model and I hope someone comes up with a better version. The concept utilizes aspects we didn't have in woodworking just a few years ago. Such as the linear bearings at very affordable prices, sandpaper stuck to glass and affordable diamond stones larger than a 6".








This pic is the bushing used in the top pivot point. These allow a tight fit while still allowing the rail to be rotated up for examination and setting of the knives.









This gives a better idea of the overall size. I would prolly make it one inch longer on both pieces to accommodate anything you want to put under it to grind, sharpen or hone with.









Another look at the section that holds the knife. Cap bar cut from an aluminum angle then shaped for clearance Clarence.



Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

thegrgyle said:


> @ Tom.... That is good to know. I would like that info when you get a chance.
> 
> @ Al.... I am happy to hear that this worked out real good for you. IT is always nice to work with sharp tools once again.... Reminds me when I first sharpened my chisels after purchasing my WS3000....
> 
> If you don't mind me asking..... What kind of sandpaper did you use? Did you use a few different grits? did you do it wet or dry?


Sorry I missed this post.

I use a course diamond stone to "grind". Then switch to the paper. 150, 220 then strop with leather. You can take it down as fine as you like but a planer blade sharpened in this fashion won't need to be as sharp as a chisel would be.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Greg in Maryland said:


> Hey Al,
> 
> Nice looking jig. Could you explain a bit more about the "bearing" you used? Is the carriage that holds the blades the bearing, or is it something else?
> 
> ...


Yes, that is the bearing that AL is talking about, and that is the seller that he bought/buys from. I am in the process of getting the parts as well.

Thanks, AL for posting those other pics. They will help once I finally get all my stuff and can start making the jig.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

Al and thegrgyle 

Thanks for posting the pictures and clearing up my confusion. Last question, how is the rail affixed to the top pivot point? From what I recall 8020 tubing is hollow. Did you use some sort of end cap or is the rail solid? 

Thanks.

Greg


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Greg in Maryland said:


> Al and thegrgyle
> 
> Thanks for posting the pictures and clearing up my confusion. Last question, how is the rail affixed to the top pivot point? From what I recall 8020 tubing is hollow. Did you use some sort of end cap or is the rail solid?
> 
> ...


I haven't messed with mine yet, because it is in the process of being shipped, but I do know that my tube comes pre tapped for a 5/16" thread on one end, and I plan on tapping the other end also. Then a simple bolt with washer and I think I will be good to go. I also remember seeing a sideways profile of the tube, and it isn't hollow. It has all sorts of stiffners inside to keep it strong and straight, I presume.

Actually, this is the type of tube that I am getting, and you can see there is a hole down the middle.... I plan on tapping that for the same thread as the pre-tapped end.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

thegrgyle Perfect, thanks.

I now have my little pea sized brain wrapped around it all.

Please post pictures and a write up of your build.

Al, very nice job! Thanks for sharing.

Greg


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Greg in Maryland said:


> Al and thegrgyle
> 
> Thanks for posting the pictures and clearing up my confusion. Last question, how is the rail affixed to the top pivot point? From what I recall 8020 tubing is hollow. Did you use some sort of end cap or is the rail solid?
> 
> ...


The rail has a hole in it that was threaded for a 3/8" bolt. This rail profile is not void in the center. Look for 15 series it measures 1 1/2" X 1 1/2".

One of the pictures shows a bushing. That allows you to tighten the bolt and still rotate the rail.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I've been playing with the anodizing tools again. Tried a color this time. I can't say it came out perfect. But I learned a great deal about what's important when using color. Much like working with wood. To get a great finish you need to remove all the imperfections (sand and prep well).

The cap iron came out great due to the prep and prolly the type of alloy it was made from.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> I've been playing with the anodizing tools again. Tried a color this time. I can't say it came out perfect. But I learned a great deal about what's important when using color. Much like working with wood. To get a great finish you need to remove all the imperfections (sand and prep well).
> 
> The cap iron came out great due to the prep and prolly the type of alloy it was made from.
> 
> ...


What is Anodizing? a specific way to paint Aluminum? Is it like powdercoating? Either way, it Looks good!

BTW... I finally got all the components bid on and now paid for.... They should be sending the parts sometime soon now.... can't wait!


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

thegrgyle said:


> What is Anodizing? a specific way to paint Aluminum? Is it like powdercoating? Either way, it Looks good!


Al is quite a busy guy, check out this thread: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/anodizing-aluminum-tools-37705/

Greg


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

thegrgyle said:


> What is Anodizing? a specific way to paint Aluminum? Is it like powdercoating? Either way, it Looks good!
> 
> BTW... I finally got all the components bid on and now paid for.... They should be sending the parts sometime soon now.... can't wait!


Great. Post pics when you can.

Anodizing puts a tough layer on aluminum that is hard and keeps it from oxidizing. Your parts will come anodized without color. For me to "color" the parts I needed to remove and re-anodize. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> ... Your parts will come anodized without color. For me to "color" the parts I needed to remove and re-anodize.


So if I am understanding this correctly, aluminum that we typically purchase is already anodized? And to re-anodize it with color, we first have to remove the previous anodizing? How do you remove the anodizing, especially with complex components? 

Thanks!

Greg


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Greg
Yes most alu comes anodized or coated to protect it and give it a harder more durable surface.

To remove anodizing simply dunk the part in a lye / water solution. Drano works fine. I used distilled water and Drano. It appears to do nothing till it soaks for 20 minutes or so. Then the finish gunk floats to the top. This will etch the surface so you may want to strip and then shine it up a bit. The reason it has to be stripped is due to the anodize being sealed. Either chemically or with heat. 

You will have to strip the part down and remove everything. Anodizing is done by placing it in a container filled with distilled water and sulfuric acid. Then connect a battery charger and run current through it.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I was prohibited from saying anything until publication.

Check out page 5 of the latest Woodsmith (#201).


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

rrich said:


> I was prohibited from saying anything until publication.
> 
> Check out page 5 of the latest Woodsmith (#201).


I don't get WS. Do tell.

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Basically you make a jig on the table saw to hold planer blades at the appropriate for sharpening.

It will work with jointer blades also.

I'm not sure about the indexable (square) blades used on spiral cutter heads.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

rrich said:


> Basically you make a jig on the table saw to hold planer blades at the appropriate for sharpening.
> 
> It will work with jointer blades also.
> 
> I'm not sure about the indexable (square) blades used on spiral cutter heads.



I haven't seen the article but if it's like the one being sold lately on line. I built one of those just a few short weeks ago. Not what I wanted. If you all could only be in my shop for a demonstration of my super sharp, after a demonstration, you all would be building one. 

This is very accurate. It won't mess up the blades if not set properly. Set up is stupid simple. Works on any length blade. Progress is easily monitored by rotating the blades up for inspection. Set up is fast. Uses any abrasive you prefer. I built it for pennies. Very adjustable to suit anyone's style of sharpening. Easily corrects bad grinds. The ones you can't see. 

I would love to have someone with one of those over priced Swedish grinders, send me one of their blades. After a few strokes I will send it back to show them just what they have been missing. My machines cut like brand new.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Stick (Aug 23, 2007)

Al, I guess I stopped reading when you said something about "milling a slot...". I don't have any metal working tools, but would love to have a jig like that. If you could PM me some more detailed info on what materials you bought and where, as well as any specialized "milling" that was required, I'd sure appreciate it. Right now, this project is off my RADAR because you scared me with all that hi-tech "milling"....


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Very nice jig indeed - this comment is from a guy who owns a Tormek T-7. I can see how you jig can sharpen straight edges to perfection - yes even planer and jointer knives. I still very much like my expensive Tormek but I'm very impressed with your jig. As I stated under my "unique work bench" post, we are to woodworking what ham radio operators were to electronic developments. The big names will never admit it, but we are steering their industry! Be proud of yourself!


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

BernieL said:


> Very nice jig indeed - this comment is from a guy who owns a Tormek T-7. I can see how you jig can sharpen straight edges to perfection - yes even planer and jointer knives. I still very much like my expensive Tormek but I'm very impressed with your jig. As I stated under my "unique work bench" post, we are to woodworking what ham radio operators were to electronic developments. The big names will never admit it, but we are steering their industry! Be proud of yourself!


Thanks so much for your kind words. I agree about steering the industry.

Even planer and jointer knives? I can in record time, sharpen all lengths up to 24". This fixture cost very little to build and will almost never wear out. I can use diamond, oil stone, wet stone, ceramic or sandpaper. No electric required.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## mikekahle (May 22, 2012)

Greg in Maryland said:


> So if I am understanding this correctly, aluminum that we typically purchase is already anodized? And to re-anodize it with color, we first have to remove the previous anodizing? How do you remove the anodizing, especially with complex components?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Greg


If the item is small enough, put it into your wifes dish washer.... 
I was being a good husband and cleaned up the kitchen after the kids and I made a mess making cookies and other things with my wifes favorite counter top appliance..... her Kitchen Aide stand mixer.... I put the mixing attachments into the dishwasher to clean everything up.... I did not know that the attachments were aluminum. When my wife opened up the dish washer and saw the stripped down attachments.... I couldnt get out of the house fast enough.... That was two years ago and I still pay for it every time that mixer is mentioned.....


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## Stick (Aug 23, 2007)

mikekahle said:


> If the item is small enough, put it into your wifes dish washer....
> I was being a good husband and cleaned up the kitchen after the kids and I made a mess making cookies and other things with my wifes favorite counter top appliance..... her Kitchen Aide stand mixer.... I put the mixing attachments into the dishwasher to clean everything up.... I did not know that the attachments were aluminum. When my wife opened up the dish washer and saw the stripped down attachments.... I couldnt get out of the house fast enough.... That was two years ago and I still pay for it every time that mixer is mentioned.....


Arg!!! I'm the kitchen Aide owner/operator in my house and my wife did the same thing to me! Is there any fix for it?


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## mikekahle (May 22, 2012)

Stick said:


> Arg!!! I'm the kitchen Aide owner/operator in my house and my wife did the same thing to me! Is there any fix for it?


You know, I dont know, thought they were toast... I just oil the dough hook and mixer and set then up til they get used again. Did call Kitchen Aide and they told me it was my doing... my fault and they would not cover it because it plainly states in the users manual to hand wash only. You can buy replacements. I am actually looking to replace them this christmas with the white ones they offer.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Stick said:


> Al, I guess I stopped reading when you said something about "milling a slot...". I don't have any metal working tools, but would love to have a jig like that. If you could PM me some more detailed info on what materials you bought and where, as well as any specialized "milling" that was required, I'd sure appreciate it. Right now, this project is off my RADAR because you scared me with all that hi-tech "milling"....


In my communication with Al, he told me that he "milled the slot" just using a carbide TS blade, and take very shallow passes wth it. Please correct me if I'm wrong, Al. 

I still have yet to build mine, but I do have all the parts in my "to-do" list (pile).


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Stick said:


> Arg!!! I'm the kitchen Aide owner/operator in my house and my wife did the same thing to me! Is there any fix for it?


Why not try Al's method?



Al B Thayer said:


> ... Anodizing is done by placing it in a container filled with distilled water and sulfuric acid. Then connect a battery charger and run current through it.


Al, with the interest shown here you might consider putting together some kits with instructions and selling them on eBay. Take the scary words like "milling" out of the equasion for people interested. You might also contact manufacturers like WorkSharp and Rockler about productizing it.


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## mikekahle (May 22, 2012)

if they havent already been here and taken the idea for themselves.....


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Stick said:


> Al, I guess I stopped reading when you said something about "milling a slot...". I don't have any metal working tools, but would love to have a jig like that. If you could PM me some more detailed info on what materials you bought and where, as well as any specialized "milling" that was required, I'd sure appreciate it. Right now, this project is off my RADAR because you scared me with all that hi-tech "milling"....


You can machine aluminum with most carbide woodworking tools. The ones made for nonferrous metals have a different carbide configuration and hold up better. You can also chuck end mills In a variable speed router, and do it on a router table

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

mikekahle said:


> If the item is small enough, put it into your wifes dish washer....
> I was being a good husband and cleaned up the kitchen after the kids and I made a mess making cookies and other things with my wifes favorite counter top appliance..... her Kitchen Aide stand mixer.... I put the mixing attachments into the dishwasher to clean everything up.... I did not know that the attachments were aluminum. When my wife opened up the dish washer and saw the stripped down attachments.... I couldnt get out of the house fast enough.... That was two years ago and I still pay for it every time that mixer is mentioned.....


I don't think the dishwasher can remove anodizing. Could be wrong but the kitchen aid tool was probably another coating. I use what ever chemical lye is. Mix up a strong solution and set it in till it's stripped. Nothing happens for about 20 min. Then you can see it starting to work and before you know it a bunch of scum is floating on the surface. Leave it too long and it will etch the surface requiring it to be surfaced again.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Shop Dad said:


> Why not try Al's method?
> 
> Al, with the interest shown here you might consider putting together some kits with instructions and selling them on eBay. Take the scary words like "milling" out of the equasion for people interested. You might also contact manufacturers like WorkSharp and Rockler about productizing it.


Thanks but as of late. All info is Franklin.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

"What is Anodizing?"

Aluminium self protects against corrosion by forming a film of oxide on the surface. This film can be dyed with a colour. If you spill mercury onto alloy eg breaking a thermometer while stirring in an alloy saucepan, the mercury dissolves the alloy and 'eats' the alloy. 
johnep


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

johnep34 said:


> "What is Anodizing?"
> 
> Aluminium self protects against corrosion by forming a film of oxide on the surface. This film can be dyed with a colour. If you spill mercury onto alloy eg breaking a thermometer while stirring in an alloy saucepan, the mercury dissolves the alloy and 'eats' the alloy.
> johnep


Well Aluminum isn't a very slick metal and is very soft unless treated. It rubs off on wood leaving black marks. I anodized the parts because it gives it a ware resistant finish that's much harder than the aluminum. It slicks it up making wood slide with far less effort. It also keeps the surface from oxidizing.

The anodized surface is very porous so it excepts household dyes. After coloring the surface it must be boiled for 20 minutes to seal it in.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## danj (Jul 4, 2012)

I'm missing something big here. How does the blade load? It looks like the blade loads onto the device so that it slides side-to-side on the abrasive. If that's it, doesn't it rip papers? Also, of that's the case, how do you square the blade? Any chance we can get a short video of the thing in use?

Also, could someone provide a parts list and maybe even a cut list? 

Finally, if it does run blades side-to-side, it could be made far shorter if 2" plane blades would be the longest? 

Thanks.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

danj said:


> I'm missing something big here. How does the blade load? It looks like the blade loads onto the device so that it slides side-to-side on the abrasive. If that's it, doesn't it rip papers? Also, of that's the case, how do you square the blade? Any chance we can get a short video of the thing in use?
> 
> Also, could someone provide a parts list and maybe even a cut list?
> 
> ...


It doesn't rip the paper. It does slide side to side. You can make it any size you like. If you are only going to use it for small blades. You can buy a holder that will work better for that type of sharpening. I designed it mainly for planer and jointer blades.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## danj (Jul 4, 2012)

Wow, thanks for the quick reply. It makes far more sense as to blade loading now. Now to find the best <$20 hand plane/chisel honing guide. I'll post that very question in the appropriate place. This is a very slick device though.


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## planerboy (May 3, 2011)

Is there a place where the plans for this project are available?? Very interested in building one.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

This is a project I put together out of frustrations that accompany getting blades sharpened. Removing them from the machine, dropping them off, picking them up. I also hadn't been satisfied with the end results. Also a fixture like this was expensive to put together. But now these bearings are available on EBay in many sizes and lengths and many times dirt cheap.

There is no plan I just built it as a one off design build. As it went together I made changes that made it work. It works well. I put it on this board in hopes that others would expound on its design and capabilities. If you look through the pictures and posts you will find its fairly simple to build.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## planerboy (May 3, 2011)

This is a great piece. I am having some difficulty locating the rails and linear bearings you used. Do u have specific information on those?? I believe the rest I can get from ur posts and pics. Thanks again.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

If you look up the seller 8020inc on Ebay, they sell all the various "tubes", linear bearings, and all sorts of parts that was used to make this sharpener. 

Just make sure that you keep track of what type you are using...I.E. metric, or standard, and make sure to keep all your parts the same type. It takes a little to learn the lingo, but once you do, it is quite easy to order exactly what you want.

They are a great company to work with as well.... they will combine shipping for you, as well as wait for you to "win" all your auctions, before sending you a combined invoice.

Hope this helps.


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