# entertainment center plans ?



## info (Oct 3, 2011)

I have couple ? on my design . 
1st . the shelf dado for the center part .Will this bee a weak joint ? Are should I kreg joint it 
? 
2nd. then center bottom . Should this be a door or pull out drawer
Sorry for the mad drawing
Thank you
This will be a maple center . hard maple plywood frame and shelf . Top ambrosia maple and frame . Maybe top have Black walnut band ( not sure )


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

When you run the dado, you don't have to run it very deep so it wouldn't reduce the strength of the side panel. I wouldn't use the kreg screws, I would just put finish nails on an angle into the side. 

When I make an entertainment center I like to make a few drawers with dividers in it to hold media such as dvd's and cd's so I would rather do that than put a door in the center. Woodworkers Hardware sells tracts to hold such media you could put in the drawers.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

How about this . Not real good at this part


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It looks good to me. I think the end sections I would line bore the sides and dividers and make adjustable shelves. You could also run verticle dado's 3/16" deep and 5/8" wide and use KV255 adjustable shelf tract. I prefer the line bore and use 5mm (3/16") pins.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

here is the top 
i will also do a round over on edges


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> It looks good to me. I think the end sections I would line bore the sides and dividers and make adjustable shelves. You could also run verticle dado's 3/16" deep and 5/8" wide and use KV255 adjustable shelf tract. I prefer the line bore and use 5mm (3/16") pins.


thanks 
Im very limit on drawing 
I now have a ideal what i need to do .
Again Thanks


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

info said:


> here is the top
> i will also do a round over on edges


If you are using solid wood for the ambrosia maple be sure to make the walnut trim on the ends like a breadboard end on a table. This would mean you need to make a tongue and groove joint and not glue the walnut on. Because the grain of the walnut runs perpendicular to the maple when the maple shrinks the top would split if glued. You would just put about three screws into the joint from underneath.


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## tcarter76 (Nov 27, 2012)

Funny that I just walked in from finishing a TV stand when I saw this thread. It's my first attempt at furniture.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> If you are using solid wood for the ambrosia maple be sure to make the walnut trim on the ends like a breadboard end on a table. This would mean you need to make a tongue and groove joint and not glue the walnut on. Because the grain of the walnut runs perpendicular to the maple when the maple shrinks the top would split if glued. You would just put about three screws into the joint from underneath.


Are talking about the two ends ? If so are you saying kreg joint them ?

The front and sides . I was going use a 1/4 plywood router bit slot out the walnut then ambrosia maple . Then cut some pylwood strips .Then glue them together . 
Not right ?


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> If you are using solid wood for the ambrosia maple be sure to make the walnut trim on the ends like a breadboard end on a table. This would mean you need to make a tongue and groove joint and not glue the walnut on. Because the grain of the walnut runs perpendicular to the maple when the maple shrinks the top would split if glued. You would just put about three screws into the joint from underneath.





info said:


> How about this . Not real good at this part


I also have another ? 
The bottom trim will be on the front and sides . More for pretty . 
With the weight of this center . Should I have another bottom support under center ?


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

tcarter76 said:


> Funny that I just walked in from finishing a TV stand when I saw this thread. It's my first attempt at furniture.


Nice job


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

info said:


> Are talking about the two ends ? If so are you saying kreg joint them ?
> 
> The front and sides . I was going use a 1/4 plywood router bit slot out the walnut then ambrosia maple . Then cut some pylwood strips .Then glue them together .
> Not right ?


Anytime you have wood going perpendicular with each other it's best not to fasten it too tight. That is why the breadboard ends are not glued. Kreg screws even if you don't glue it I would be afraid it would be too tight of a joint. What you can expect to happen over time is the maple would shrink in width and the walnut on the end wouldn't shrink in length. If you didn't allow the wood to move it is more likely to split. 

As far as the base I normally put a lot of structure under the bottom shelf. It's not seen so you might as well give it plenty of support so the shelf doesn't sag.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

I think . I understand . Top tongue and grove all sides . Glue front , back and 45 angles. Do not glue sides due to Expansion of wood 

Do I need a router bit for Tongue and groove ? If so can you post a web site so I can order it please ? I'm still learning 
Thank you


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

info said:


> With the weight of this center . Should I have another bottom support under center ?


With this drawing, you only need dadoes ¼" deep, with glue and clamps. No need for mechanical fasteners. If you're using Maple plywood for the top, you can glue on the trim edge. Or, you could use any plywood and use a veneer, and glue on the edging. If you are profiling the edge, having an edge that can move will leave some gap at the joint.

Again for this drawing you don't need additional support for the center, as the toe design provides that. As for drawers or doors at the bottom, drawers make more sense, as operating a door and reaching inside that low to the floor is a bit difficult.



















.


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Don't forget to consider and then create slots/holes for cables to run. I'd even recommend making the back panel recess in to leave a cavity behind that is big enough for all the cables and a power strip of some sort. Nothing ruins the look of a great table quicker than a few dozen power/hdmi/ethernet cables strung all over it.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

The Cabinet will be maple plywood . The frame maple . Top Ambrosia maple band with walnut . That's my plan


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

4DThinker said:


> Don't forget to consider and then create slots/holes for cables to run. I'd even recommend making the back panel recess in to leave a cavity behind that is big enough for all the cables and a power strip of some sort. Nothing ruins the look of a great table quicker than a few dozen power/hdmi/ethernet cables strung all over it.


Thanks . I was not thinking about that


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> With this drawing, you only need dadoes ¼" deep, with glue and clamps. No need for mechanical fasteners. If you're using Maple plywood for the top, you can glue on the trim edge. Or, you could use any plywood and use a veneer, and glue on the edging. If you are profiling the edge, having an edge that can move will leave some gap at the joint.
> 
> Again for this drawing you don't need additional support for the center, as the toe design provides that. As for drawers or doors at the bottom, drawers make more sense, as operating a door and reaching inside that low to the floor is a bit difficult.
> 
> ...


Thanks
right now I'm working on the enter cabinet part . 
I have Ambrosia maple rough-cut


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

This is what I finished for today . Still in the rough


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> Anytime you have wood going perpendicular with each other it's best not to fasten it too tight. That is why the breadboard ends are not glued. Kreg screws even if you don't glue it I would be afraid it would be too tight of a joint. What you can expect to happen over time is the maple would shrink in width and the walnut on the end wouldn't shrink in length. If you didn't allow the wood to move it is more likely to split.
> 
> As far as the base I normally put a lot of structure under the bottom shelf. It's not seen so you might as well give it plenty of support so the shelf doesn't sag.


thanks


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

MLCS 17840 Katana Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set, 1/2-Inch Shank, 2-Piece - Amazon.com
Whiteside 3375 Tongue & Groove Assembly Router Bit - Amazon.com


is this what I need for the top 
My top ,i will have to join two peace of ambrosia maple together to get my width . Would it be better to tongue and grove ?
Thanks


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

i hope tomorrow ,I can get the back done . i have alot to do tomorrow .family time


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*glue joint bits....*

Some woodworkers love 'em, some hate 'em. They require the work to be the same thickness OR you'll have to play with the bit height to get the tops to be perfectly smooth across.... :yes:
Amazon.com: glue joint bit: Tools & Home Improvement

Here's a good thread on their use.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/were-you-glue-up-table-top-32049/

This is because one piece gets routed top surface down on the table, it's mate gets router bottom surface down on the table. It does align the surface perfectly when properly adjusted and provides significantly more glue area than a simple butt joint.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

This is it for the weekend . No glue up. Just fitting .
Next step underneath extra support


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Tomorrow I'm going start gluing this all together . Before I start , last night I was thinking about how the top will mount to this box .
I was going to screw the top down from I side the top shelf . 
If I do this , do I need to pre drill a counter sink hole 1/4 then drill a 1/16 pilot hole . 
8 holes total . Then use wood screws with a washer to screw top down . 
Will this app be proper ? Then will it be enough to Secure top down and allow movement ?
Thanks. This is all prep work now .


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## lilman (Nov 22, 2012)

Made this a couple of months ago, nothing fancy at all. Assembled with just dados and glue. I was worried about only using glue being its MDF and heavy but I've had no issues so far. I'm realizing glue is much stronger than I thought.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Well tonight I pick up new glue . Then glue my inner structure. Let me tell you , the humidity is high .
Tomorrow ,I'm going to mill my rough cut wood . I will use my new planer .Steel City basic planer then I can complete a review on it .


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## Derek Blackwell (Jun 1, 2013)

Hello everyone ,was reading on the plywood entertainment center and thought I would share the vertical entertainment center that I built! Notice that I used 3/4" screen moulding to cover the ends of the plywood, and it also added accent to the sides! Simple project but turned out very nice, also used a finishing spray gun to apply the three in one stain. Was a bit worried on how the sprayer would work... Hate painting and staining my work. The sprayer is very nice!


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## Derek Blackwell (Jun 1, 2013)

Here is the final placement!


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Wow nice . What stain did you use again ?


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## Derek Blackwell (Jun 1, 2013)

Minwax polyshade mahogany satin 380 

Stain and Polyurethane and one step


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

I'm stating my top mill down some rough cut . Maybe tomorrow I might be ready for glue the boards together. . 
I have a ? 
When my top is finished and ready to install on my center . I'm going counter sink and screw the top down to maple plywood . Would I need to use glue with it screw down ?
Thanks


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You don't want to glue the solid wood top down to the plywood for the same reason you don't want to glue the breadboard ends on. The solid would will expand and contract at a different rate than the plywood. I would just use the screws and put enough you can lift the cabinet by the top but try not to go overboard with the screws. Too many screws will have the same effect as gluing it.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Thank you 
Lordy , I'm learning so much from this one project . 
I was thinking the wood top would have movement during the climate change . Was not sure 
Thank you so much .


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

info said:


> Thank you
> Lordy , I'm learning so much from this one project .
> I was thinking the wood top would have movement during the climate change . Was not sure
> Thank you so much .


 If you think about how plywood is made, it has layers of veneer in perpendicular directions to make is strong so it's not able to shrink as much as a solid piece of wood.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Plans change on me last night .
Wife want no pull out drawer for the bottom middle now . She want a reg shelf . 
She wants to put her pretty stuff there now . Also change pretty things for different season displays , It no big deal . 
Does anyone project ever change like this .


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

I have a ? about bottom support .
The bottom of my entertainment center i was going to add extra support . 
Can I use my extra maple plywood for this ? or would this need to be maple hard wood ? this will not be seen 
I was going to glue and kreg joint 
Picture below


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You would need support where I have marked x. If it was me I would make a continious board across the front. You could recess it back a couple of inches like a toespace on kitchen cabinets.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Steve thanks a million . I was Worried about the support . 
My plan changed again . I'll design a offset toe kick for the front view now .
Again steve thank you so much


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