# Large, small depth plunges.



## ASB1583 (Mar 1, 2014)

Fellow Woodworkers,

I make presses for uniform hats. So the finished pieces of wood lay flush, I make a large small depth surface area for the hat brim to sit in (pictured). This is quite the daunting task because the plunged recess is wider than my router base. I tired to make multiple layer templates and do one half at a time but this was a pain to. Anyone have any advise or have run into a similar plunge with a easier approach to the cut.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Attach a larger base on your router. They can be purchased or shop made.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

Start in the middle and work your way out.


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## ASB1583 (Mar 1, 2014)

Thank you both. I forgot to mention that I am template routing. Nut I am going to try both of your ideas.

Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

A larger base is the way to go.

What type of bit are you using?

Given the shallow depth of the cut, the largest diameter mortising bit you can find would probably be your best bet.


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

Look at overarm/pin router setups. I have a MLCS Daisy pin router that I use to make multiple copies of plates.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Might help to do the plunged recess first. Other than that, I like bladeburners' idea best. Been wanting to get one of those myself, just haven't got the round tuit for it yet. :smile:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

If you attach a board to your base that is twice as long as the hole you will be able to ride the sides and route any where on the surface you like. This will allow you to make more than one pass at different depths. Your last cut can be micro and therefore smoother.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## 2lim (Aug 30, 2009)

For a bit, go to a local tool shop and look for a large diameter surfacing bit. I have an 8 cutter 2" diameter 1/2" shank bit that leaves a great surface, and takes out a ton of material.

Simon


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## ASB1583 (Mar 1, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> If you attach a board to your base that is twice as long as the hole you will be able to ride the sides and route any where on the surface you like. This will allow you to make more than one pass at different depths. Your last cut can be micro and therefore smoother. Al Nails only hold themselves.


Al, 

Do you have an example or a picture? I want to be able to keep my clear base on the router to see my work area edges but can't seem to figure out how to attach the MDF.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ASB1583 said:


> Al,
> 
> Do you have an example or a picture? I want to be able to keep my clear base on the router to see my work area edges but can't seem to figure out how to attach the MDF.


I wouldn't use MDF. I flattened my work bench using two 1 by 2 inch hardwood strips. Take the base off and screw the rails on to the router base without your base. You need to stand the rails up so cut notches in them to set the router in. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## ASB1583 (Mar 1, 2014)

This is what I came up with.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

That's a bit much and I'm not sure why it stretches in two directions. Probably could have just made two rails and secured them to your router.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

looks like it should do good for you. are the wooden dowels holding the router?


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## ASB1583 (Mar 1, 2014)

TimPa said:


> looks like it should do good for you. are the wooden dowels holding the router?


Yeah, or visa versa. With how much I'm gonna have to use it I wanted to make it nice. I'm prob gonna put a piece of hardboard on the bottom.

Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ASB1583 said:


> Yeah, or visa versa. With how much I'm gonna have to use it I wanted to make it nice. I'm prob gonna put a piece of hardboard on the bottom.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum


I'd leave it as it is. Hardboard will keep you from seeing your work.

When I use mine I make full passes from one side to the other. I use a set of clamps to keep it cutting in a straight line. If you don't your going to wonder all over and waste cuts and time. Make a pass and move the clamps and repeat. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## ASB1583 (Mar 1, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> I'd leave it as it is. Hardboard will keep you from seeing your work. When I use mine I make full passes from one side to the other. I use a set of clamps to keep it cutting in a straight line. If you don't your going to wonder all over and waste cuts and time. Make a pass and move the clamps and repeat. Al Nails only hold themselves.


I was hoping to leave the clear base unobstructed. Here is a completed picture of what I use it for. Where you can see the black felt is where I have to plunge a recess small in depth.

Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ASB1583 said:


> I was hoping to leave the clear base unobstructed. Here is a completed picture of what I use it for. Where you can see the black felt is where I have to plunge a recess small in depth.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum


Looks good but your base is way too big. You just need two rails going one direction. I flattened my whole work bench with just two. Two rails like a ladder with no rungs. Screw those to a 1/2" thick square base, just a 1/4" bigger than your router base and screw the base to the router. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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