# Got A $20 Table Saw... But Did I Pay TOO MUCH?!?!?!



## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Hi there, Everyone:

I just got a Ryobi BTS15 table saw for the low, low price of $20. But maybe it wasn't worth it? (See further explanation about the price down at the bottom) It takes a 10" blade, and has the blade guard and riving knife(?), but seems to be lacking the miter fence.










It seems like it has an ok rip fence (or at least, a standard style of fence that could eventually be upgraded?)










And it seems to have a little bit better of a miter slot / set up than the other budget models of table saws, just no actual miter fence...










And while the "official" stand has apparently been lost to time, she did throw in this "unofficial" stand for free...










i kind of got the feeling that this is not an OEM table saw stand when she boasted that "you can also use this stand for putting a barbeque on."

So, let's just assume this thing works. (we didn't test it out because it was sitting out in the pasture, but I saw lots of sawdust underneath it and no blood splatters on it.) That brings me to the key questions:

*1) Is it worth the $20 I paid for it?*

*2) Can I use my Freud Diablo 7-1/4 inch 60 tooth blade on it (even though this is a ten inch saw)?*

*3) Will I be able to find a miter fence for it?*

*4) What can I use for a stand (since I am sure there will be occasions when I want to saw something AND barbecue something at the same time). :chef:*

and most importantly...

*5) What in the world do I need to use to remove the **stench of** HORSE URINE that envelopes both the saw and stand??? *

Thanks in advance for all your opinions and help.

~~~~~

Regarding the price of the saw:

It was actually offered on craigslist for free. apparently, it was her brother-in-law's saw, and he got a new one, and it was just taking up space on her deck, so she wanted it gone.

I figured there would be a lot of people wanting it, so I offered her $20 if she would hold it for me. She gladly accepted.

Turns out, a while back she tried to sell it for $50 on CL, and no one contacted her about it. Then two days ago, she put it on CL for free, and over 30 people contacted her about it. So she was thinking of taking it OFF craigslist and then putting it back on for $50 again.

So it turns out I was the only person smart enough / dumb enough to offer $20 for something free... :devil:


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## 65BAJA (May 27, 2012)

Congrats on the saw. You should be able to get a new miter fence for it from Ryobi. Just get the model number and jump on their website. The new fence will probably cost more than the saw did though.:huh:


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## BigJoe16 (Feb 20, 2012)

Before you get a fence or worry about the smell or even the blade, I would make sure it worked. If it dosent turn on, none of that other stuff matters.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks for the note. I will look on the ryobi site.

It's funny that there doesn't seem to be a whole lot on the web about this particular saw. One thing that stands out was this:

Ryobi stuck with $1.5M table saw verdict

Hmm... and I thought they called this thing "The Widow Maker" because husbands like to _spend so much time with this saw_ and neglect their wives so much, making their wives feel like widows...


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

> If it dosent turn on, none of that other stuff matters.


Thank you for the advice, but believe me, the Horse Urine smell matters!!! 

I wish there was some way I could "photograph smell" so that I could share it with everyone on this forum.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

To answer your questions...

What did you expect for $20.00? You will need to put some time, elbow grease, and yes, most likely parts into it. If this shocks you, I can't help you with what you need.

1) Is it worth the $20 I paid for it?

Does it run? Is everything that is there function properly? Is the sliding miter table straight? If the answers are yes, then, well... yes.

2) Can I use my Freud Diablo 7-1/4 inch 60 tooth blade on it (even though this is a ten inch saw)?

I believe 7-1/4" blades have a half inch arbor hole, this saw has a standard 5/8" arbor. Just go back to Home Depot and buy a Diablo 40tooth 10" blade for it...

3) Will I be able to find a miter fence for it? 

Absolutely. Try www.ereplacementparts.com. Mind you, you WILL spend more for the fence than you did for the saw. Check back with the seller to see if they might have that fence laying around not knowing what it looks like. It is a pretty simple aluminum extrusion with a clamp / knob that holds it to the sliding table. If you can't BUY one, making one shouldn't be impossible... The same basic fence was used on the BTS15, BTS21, and the BT3x00 series saws. You might watch the forums for guys parting these saws out and snag a fence from them. They are most likely to show up on www.bt3central.com though as that site specializes in Ryobi saws / users.

4) What can I use for a stand (since I am sure there will be occasions when I want to saw something AND barbecue something at the same time). 

Build one. It's amazing what you can make with wood these days... Okay sorry the smart a&& in me is coming out today. But in all seriousness. If you are totally strapped for cash, gather up 2x4 scrap and build a basic short bench / box kind of stand for it. You can only get fancier from there... A proper rolling cabinet base / workstation that you build a router table into would be even better... 

5) What in the world do I need to use to remove the horse urine stench that envelopes both the saw and stand??? 

I am not sure about horse urine, but other literal animal urine on tools is not that uncommon (angry cats are no fun). Pet stores sell urine neutralizers, those, time, and open air will fix that problem... A good cleanup is no big deal...

You mentioned the rip fence and I wanted to address that. None of the Ryobi bench top type saws, and the overwhelming majority of bench top saws, have the ability to have the fence upgraded, as the rails typically are made as part of the table top instead of separate pieces. There are a few aftermarket wide tables / fence upgrades, but they are typically either very cheesy such as the Skil version, or VERY expensive such as the Jointtech.... Generally speaking not worth it.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks dbhost:



> It's amazing what _*you*_ can make with wood these days...


I assume when you say the word "you" that you actually mean "people in general," as opposed to *me* specifically being able to make _anything_ out of wood... (otherwise, you haven't seem examples of my "craftsmanship" yet).



> Okay sorry the smart a&& in me is coming out today.


Hah! Then you and I might be related!!!


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

That looks like the predecessor to the BTS 21 which I used to have. Here's a fence for it before I forget
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RYOBI-TABLE...808?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46061246e0

Mine wasn't a horrible saw, just quite a bit different from most others with the sliding miter table. If you take care in setting it up, it will deliver dead bang angles.. miters and such. With the sliding table the crosscut capacity is much greater than most contractor type saws but it really wants a crosscut sled. Kind of a challenge because, conspicuous by their abscence are any miter slots of any kind. A sled can be designed to use the sliding table but is a little Rube Goldbergish. The lack of miter slots was the main reason I upgraded the saw. I was getting into more and more jigs and equipment that relied on having a miter slot. The old Craftsman were a PIA with their odd sized slots, this one went one better with NO slots. My assesment overall would be that it isn't a bad starter saw. Sleds can also be built to guide off the fence.
OH yeah, your 7.25 blade does have a 5/8 arbor and will work fine on that saw, just lose a little over an inch of cut depth. 
Congratulations, not a bad score for $20.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

dbHost - your ereplacementparts link lists that part as obsolete:thumbdown:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Wood4Brains said:


> ...It seems like it has an ok rip fence (or at least, a standard style of fence that could eventually be upgraded?


There's probably not much in the way of fence upgrades that will fit well or are worth doing. Most aftermarket fences are geared toward full size cast iron belt drive saws. This saw would be considered in the bench top class, and is smaller than full size saws. 

Your 7-1/4" blade should work pretty well, but isn't necessarily ideal for the long term. I'd pick up something like a 10" Diablo 40T when you can. 

If it works, you got your $20 worth.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks again, John:

it looks like possibly this saw might share parts with a Ridgid model table saw?!?!?!


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I think you did pay too much.
I wouldn't put any money in it.
I would just bolt on a wood miter fence and use it, until I found a decent saw.
You could bolt a fence on and just use for 90 deg. cuts, which is what most cuts with a miter gauge are. Or you could put some thought into a home made pivoting miter fence.
A saw with no miter slots, makes cheapo saws with undersize slots look good. I'm talking cheap saws, not quality sliders.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Pirate said:


> I think you did pay too much.
> I wouldn't put any money in it.
> I would just bolt on a wood miter fence and use it, until I found a decent saw.
> You could bolt a fence on and just use for 90 deg. cuts, which is what most cuts with a miter gauge are. Or you could put some thought into a home made pivoting miter fence.
> A saw with no miter slots, makes cheapo saws with undersize slots look good. I'm talking cheap saws, not quality sliders.


That sliding miter table does a very good job on miters. 90 and both 45° 's are pinned. The lack of miter slots shows up when you want to start using cross cut sleds, tapering jigs, attach featherboards, all that good stuff. No argument about it being a cheap saw but one has to do the best they can with what they got.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's too late if you did ...*

You really can't ask that question after you bought it. :no:
On the other hand $20.00 will not break your bank...or will it?
Here's what I see. The sliding table on the left side "takes the place" of the miter slots and miter gauge. So don't worry about having no miter slots. Do be concerned that some parts of the sliding table are missing which you will either have to make or find...... doubtful. So, I would find a good photo or illustration of the sliding table and the miter fence which is missing at least in this photo.









All you need is a pivot bolt or pin and a vertical fence. You may need to get some help from a knowledgeable person who can fabricate a simple solution. It would be worth it IF the saw and motor runs well and has no vibration or slop in the arbor. Again someone knowledgeable will be able to help determine that. There is a certain challenge I find in restoring
old tools or cast off, but that's just me.:yes: bill


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

*@ Pirate:*

Thanks for the input.



> I would just bolt on a wood miter fence and use it, until I found a decent saw.


Lots of decent used saws around here in the $75 to $150 range. A lot of the emerson craftsman (which people have said are pretty decent).

Unfortunately, I can't afford that, nor could I afford $250 to $500 to put on a good fence. Nor do I have the room for them (apartment life is not very conducive to woodworking, I am finding.)

I am sorry I should have made that clear at the beginning.



> I would just bolt on a wood miter fence and use it, until I found a decent saw.


That's a possibility, thanks for the suggestion.



> Or you could put some thought into a home made pivoting miter fence.


Thanks for the suggestion. I like that idea. Will look into it first.

*@ jschaben*



> That sliding miter table does a very good job on miters. 90 and both 45° 's are pinned.


Thanks for confirmation about that. I did notice the pinholes, so I thought that there must be some way to set up something in them.

The sliding miter table seems like it slides pretty smoothly. I might be able to get a miter fence in the $30 range if I am unable to make one. 

*@ woodnthings*



> *You really can't ask that question after you bought it. :no:*


Oh yes I can!!! I am the master of the "Ready, Fire, Aim" philosophy of life. arty:

And you think I am bad? Wait till you meet my wife. Not only does she ask the question AFTER she does something, she also tells me what _my_ answer to that question is. Boy, is that ever convenient. :smile:

Thanks for the suggestions on how to come up with a home made miter fence, and for the tips on what to look for in determining if the saw is going to be worth putting a little time into.


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Wood4Brains said:


> Thank you for the advice, but believe me, the Horse Urine smell matters!!!
> 
> I wish there was some way I could "photograph smell" so that I could share it with everyone on this forum.


shessh here asking for advice and threaten us like that? :laughing:


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

[QUOTE= (apartment life is not very conducive to woodworking, I am finding.)

I hope you use it when your neighbors are out. The Ryobi direct drive benchtop saws are loud!


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

> I hope you use it when your neighbors are out. The Ryobi direct drive benchtop saws are loud!


Yup, although I think my Craftsman Circular saw will still be the king of loud... much louder than the router I picked up yesterday for $20 (25K one horsepower single speed).

I am actually doing all my wood work in the back office of one of my wife's retail stores, and space is LIMITED, as are the hours I can use ANY power tools (only from about 9-10:30 in the morning and from about 6:30 to 8:00 at night). It doesn't help that there is a residency hotel (basically, a halfway house for nutjobs) on the second floor above our store.

After mulling things over, it is looking more likely that I will either put this up on craigslist for $20 (the same price I paid) or part it out. I figure I could sell the various parts for about $50 to $60 total. 

On the other hand, I might contact a local school and see if they could use it and just donate it to them if they think they could use it.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Wood4Brains said:


> Yup, although I think my Craftsman Circular saw will still be the king of loud... much louder than the router I picked up yesterday for $20 (25K one horsepower single speed).
> 
> I am actually doing all my wood work in the back office of one of my wife's retail stores, and space is LIMITED, as are the hours I can use ANY power tools (only from about 9-10:30 in the morning and from about 6:30 to 8:00 at night). It doesn't help that there is a residency hotel (basically, a halfway house for nutjobs) on the second floor above our store.
> 
> ...


Hi - I doubt any school, public anyway, will be interested as you haven't got any safety equipment with it. Most around here have gone with the SawStop. 
If you are interested, it wouldn't take much to build a functioning miter fence for it. The two holes along the right edge of the table are for the pivot point of the fence. The furthest one up is for 90° cuts and the other two are for +/-45°. Use whichever works for in between. The slot in the center is for the clamping bolt. It is a t-slot and IIRC, takes a 5/16" bolt. Attached is a sketchup plan for a fence. Dimensions are likely off some as I am working with a highly fallible memory.:smile:


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thank you, John!!!


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