# Hand Plane for Edge Banding



## 4nthony (Aug 9, 2020)

I've been thinking of getting my first hand plane and have seen several videos of people using hand planes to trim edge banding. I'm still mostly working with plywood (cabinets, drawer fronts, etc.) and using walnut, oak, or maple for my edge banding. 

I typically use a router with a flush trim bit but I'd like to start using hand planes. After watching a William Ng video, he recommends a #5 or # 5-1/2 as someone's first plane. At 14" long, would a #5 be too much plane for edge banding? I'm guessing the plane in this photo is probably a #3 or #4.










Thanks for your thoughts and advice!


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

A no 5 is a good, common, and versatile bench plane.

I like no 6 planes for almost any task from flattening to jointing to smoothing. If you are only going to get one plane, this could be it. They are basically a 5 1/2 with two and a half extra inches of length.

That pic looks like a 4 1/2. I'm not sure I would pick that up for trimming edge banding. I might pick up a block plane instead...


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

I use a block plane to trim edge banding.


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## WeebyWoodWorker (Jun 11, 2017)

Go to craigslist, thrift stores, flea markets, yada yada and find a cheapo one. Learn how to clean and tune it up. You can go out and buy a nice expensive Lie Neilson or veritas but unless you already know you love hand tools I wouldn't spend the money. Just make sure you sharpen it nicely, sharp tools make for easy enjoyable work.

As far as I know nobody ever uses a number three, a six is sorta useless as you can just use a five and if you need the length for jointing a seven is far better. A four is your best bet. As far as the pic posted goes I've always been taught and teach that on smaller planes such as a four your pointer finger points forward rather than being on the tote just like a saw. 

-T


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

Not much love for the no 6, huh weebywood? I like the width of the blade. It lets me flatten a board faster with less passes, and they are still cheaper than a no 7.


Also, Ali Express sells a "luban" low angle block plane that is nearly identical to the lie Nielsen 60 1/2. I have owned both, and the quality is surprisingly close. The blade on the luban sharpens easier than the lie Nielsen. The edge does last long enough, but likely is not as long lasting.


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## 4nthony (Aug 9, 2020)

Tom-G said:


> I use a block plane to trim edge banding.


I hadn't thought about getting a block plane but will consider it. Mark Spagnuolo has a video where he tunes up a really inexpensive block plane and gets good results from it. Of course, he knows what he's doing as far as tuning is concerned. 



WeebyWoodWorker said:


> Go to craigslist, thrift stores, flea markets, yada yada and find a cheapo one. Learn how to clean and tune it up. You can go out and buy a nice expensive Lie Neilson or veritas but unless you already know you love hand tools I wouldn't spend the money. Just make sure you sharpen it nicely, sharp tools make for easy enjoyable work.
> 
> As far as I know nobody ever uses a number three, a six is sorta useless as you can just use a five and if you need the length for jointing a seven is far better. A four is your best bet. As far as the pic posted goes I've always been taught and teach that on smaller planes such as a four your pointer finger points forward rather than being on the tote just like a saw.


If my experience sharpening kitchen knives is any indication, I've got some serious practice ahead of me to learn how to correctly sharpen and tune a hand plane. But you're right, trying to find something at a flea market or thrift store is probably the best bet. No sense in spending a good chunk of change on something that I might decide I'm not all that into.

I will keep an eye out for a #4. Thanks for the comments!


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If you are using wood edge banding, I would advise against using a hand plane to trim. Some times the grain on wooden edge banding will not run straight but will run at an angle. Using a hand plane will pull the angled grain and mess the edge banding up more times than not. I used a flush cut HPL trimmer with a bearing.


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## JohnGi (May 9, 2019)

My first hand plane was a #5 Bailey. I loved that plane and learned a lot using it. A good size plane to start with. 
Mostly when I plane edging it is on raw mdf, and I veneer over it. Like BigCountry79, I like a #6 for this. With the plane at an angle, the long tail gets the edging aligned with the substrate surface so there are no gaps in the glue line. The wider blade can be set to a very slight side to side taper so first cuts are heavier to remove material and the final cut is very fine to get a seamless transition without digging into the panel.


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