# New Circular saw, why can't I cut straight?



## garek007 (Jan 8, 2016)

Hi,

I just bought a new circular saw by skilsaw, the lowest end one, the $40 model. It should work fine for my needs, but I bought it to cut straight and I can't seem to cut straight. Out of 5 cuts I got one right. I am crosscutting plywood that is 24" in width. I have two sawhorses and two 2x4s running from sawhorse to sawhorse to keep the plywood from sagging. I'm using a long plywood board as my fence and it is pretty straight. The first few cuts my fence was clamped to the plywood, but my plywood was not clamped to the two by fours (2x4s are also not clamped to anything, but they're heavy). So the plywood slid a bit because it wasn't clamped down. For my most recent cut I clamped the plywood and the fence down to the 2x4s. They are heavy enough they kept the plywood from sliding, but my cut still veered away from the fence!

I am right handed and the fence was on the left side of the saw. I read somewhere that perhaps I should try putting the fence on the right side so that when my hand wants to veer that direction it will stay against the fence. Any other tips?


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

$40 saw has $0.50 blade

That would be my guess, if you bought a good blade it probably cut straight, of $40 saw's base edge isn't parallel to the saw blade

That is about all it could be not counting user error


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## new2woodwrk (Mar 16, 2015)

I just bought the same saw myself a few weeks ago and it cuts fine. I did change the blade however - that's one very important lesson I learned from this forum - blades that come with the saw tend to be less than accurate.

Aside from having a good blade, are you sure the 2x4's you're using for guides are straight? 

I know some of the ones I get from HD and L are seldom straight.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Can you watch the saw veer away from the fence? 
Maybe you need to aim to the left, all the time?
I did exactly the same, cutting 2x4, even with a good line.

Blades: Buy really good ones.
A really good plywood blade does a very nice job.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

practice and experience


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

On my circular saw, a bottom of the barrel Ryobi, the blade is not perfectly parallel with the edge of the base. That makes it hard to keep it against a guide.

I wonder if yours is like that.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Even if the blade isn't parallel to the edge of the base, you will still get a straight line. You would just have a wider kerf.

I'd guess your guide isn't perfectly straight.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

sanchez said:


> Even if the blade isn't parallel to the edge of the base, you will still get a straight line. You would just have a wider kerf.
> 
> I'd guess your guide isn't perfectly straight.


If the blade is pointed towards the edge/fence/guide, then yes ... that would press the saw harder against the guide, and assuming the guide is secure and doesn't flex, yes, you would get a straight line, but a wider kerf.

If it is pointed away from the edge/fence/guide, then it would want to pull the saw away from the guide. In that case, you would have to use your arm strength to keep it against the guide (or twist the saw a little). That makes it a challenge to keep it against the guide.

Mine is pointed away from the edge. It sucks using that saw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Maybe you need a "track" saw.....*

A circ saw used against a guide will only cut as straight as the guide is straight AND as only well as the operator maintains a constant contact with the guide. However, a guide allow the saw to wander away no matter how you concentrate on making contact.

On the other hand a "track" saw has a built in track for a rail to ride in and there is no means for the saw to wander. You simply attach a small strip of plastic, wood or metal to the base of your circular saw and make a corresponding width dado or slot in a piece of MDF, or good plywood, The dado must parallel to one edge so you get a straight slot.

As far as blades go, a decent blade will cut straight even if it's not super razor sharp. The Freud Diablo blades at Home Depot are better than decent and for the price offer a good bang for the buck. 

Here's a DIY approach to make a track saw that will be accurate and cost less than $20.00:


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## garek007 (Jan 8, 2016)

Catpower said:


> $40 saw has $0.50 blade
> 
> That would be my guess, if you bought a good blade it probably cut straight, of $40 saw's base edge isn't parallel to the saw blade
> 
> That is about all it could be not counting user error


Great advice everyone. Since I've made a total of 4-5 cuts in my entire life, I'm going to guess it's user error. I'll try the track (although that seems like a lot of work) and I'll also get a better blade, just to see if it helps. My guide board is straight. Once I saw my cut was crooked I unplugged the saw and put it back in the groove and sure enough I veered away from it. I need more practice for sure.

Will putting my guide fence on the right side help you think? There's less distance between the edge and the blade if I do that. That is not a safety concern is it?


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

It might be user error with me too, but I have problems with the fences that come with the saws, I prefer a good straight edge along the base of the saw


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*guide board placement*

Depending on the *thickness* and width of the board, there may not be room for the saw motor to clear it IF it's at full depth of cut. Then you must locate the guide on the narrow side of the saw base. 

However, most cits will not be at full depth, so here's what I recommend. Depending on which side your blade is on the motor, left bladed or right bladed, place the guide board on the material opposite side or away from the blade. Then you have a wide portion of the saw base to rest on. You only have to watch the saw base and guide board interface and maintain constant contact all along the cut. It should become much easier with practice!


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## Ron_J (Sep 22, 2014)

garek007 said:


> Great advice everyone. Since I've made a total of 4-5 cuts in my entire life, I'm going to guess it's user error. I'll try the track (although that seems like a lot of work) and I'll also get a better blade, just to see if it helps. My guide board is straight. Once I saw my cut was crooked I unplugged the saw and put it back in the groove and sure enough I veered away from it. I need more practice for sure.
> 
> *Will putting my guide fence on the right side help you think?* There's less distance between the edge and the blade if I do that. That is not a safety concern is it?


It sounds like you have your guide on the motor side of the saw...meaning that it has to be pretty thin to clear the motor, and thus will have more of a tendency to flex under pressure. Try using something a little heavier for your guide (like a 4' level).


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The problem with some blades is there is so little set on the blade it doesn't allow you to correct the direction you are going. If you start off wrong the blade tends to keep you going in that direction. It's often quite difficult just looking at the blade especially if in a package but the teeth need angle outward from the body of the blade a little to give you the control you need.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

I had the same problem until my brother in law pointed out to raise the blade until the teeth and gullets were clear of the plywood. I had the blade all the way down.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If the plywood is moving as you cut you are forcing the cut, either you don't have a good blade or you are feeding too fast. Let the saw do the work, take your time.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> If it is pointed away from the edge/fence/guide, then it would want to pull the saw away from the guide. In that case, you would have to use your arm strength to keep it against the guide (or twist the saw a little). That makes it a challenge to keep it against the guide.
> 
> Mine is pointed away from the edge. It sucks using that saw.


Thanks for pointing that out, Chris!

I haven't had to deal with a misaligned blade, so I didn't think about the challenge of fighting against the blade's natural travel.


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## garek007 (Jan 8, 2016)

Ron_J said:


> It sounds like you have your guide on the motor side of the saw...meaning that it has to be pretty thin to clear the motor, and thus will have more of a tendency to flex under pressure. Try using something a little heavier for your guide (like a 4' level).


You are correct, but I am using a 3/4 board as my guide. So I don't think it's flexing.


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## garek007 (Jan 8, 2016)

FrankC said:


> If the plywood is moving as you cut you are forcing the cut, either you don't have a good blade or you are feeding too fast. Let the saw do the work, take your time.


I also didn't have it clamped down, but I'm afraid of the blade so I may be trying to go too fast.


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## gj13us (Apr 19, 2016)

FrankC said:


> Let the saw do the work


My dad repeated that over and over and over again. Took me 40 years to finally understand. :laugh2:

I was going to offer the same advice: *don't rush it*. Are you wearing ear protection? Loud noise and inexperience lead to stress, which leads to a rushed job.


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

You will learn to keep a little bit of inward pressure on the saw to help keep it tracking against the fence. I use two hands to make long fence cuts in plywood (I do not have a track jig). One hand is in the trigger handle and the other hand rests palm down on top of the blade guard (which isn't anywhere near the blade). The thumb of the hand on top of the saw first holds the blade guard open until the saw enters the wood, then the guard is released to the top of the board. That same hand (my right hand, as I am right handed) then applies just a little pressure inward to the fence, and the trigger hand (left hand) drives the saw through the cut. NOTE: I hold the guard open at blade entry because the force needed to open it while pushing can cause the saw to do weird things, like veer away.

I stand, or walk if a full length cut, approximately quartering to the right rear of the machine with with my body weight slightly forward and legs comfortably spaced apart. This helps with leverage, which in turn helps with control. Also, if your work isn't well clamped and you could not use two hands, even if you don't, re-anchor the work.

Though it has been mentioned several times, it is worth reiterating that blade depth is also a big factor in saw control, especially in long cuts. The saw will always be easier to "steer" when the height is set to just below the work thickness. And when it's easier to steer the saw floor plate toward the fence, it only follows that the cut will be as accurate as the fence is straight.

Now, be advised that the above "instruction" is way easier to actually perform than it is to describe. Like almost everything in life, there is a learning curve with all things new. In this hobby I'm sure that every one here has wrecked their project in one respect or another... until we (sometimes FINALLY) figure out how to get it right. You'll soon be cutting up lumber with your eyes closed. Oh. Wait. Don't do that!

Cheers.


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## zyglrox (Dec 24, 2017)

I'm not so sure it's the blade. I have that exact same saw and the blade cuts perfectly true. If anything, it's easier to control because of how aggressive it is. The blade of course matters. A finer blade works slower and can be hard to control, though if you let it go the speed it wants to, it'll behave for you and cut really clean edges. Just be aware that when the blade hits a denser patch, it'll want to slow down a little. And if you don't let it, it'll veer. Whereas a 24t blade is removing so much material it's unlikely to bog down and veer in the first place.

Mine cut on a slight bevel out of the box. The gauge had a little stop just a couple of degrees before "90" and I had to actually shove it to get it there. Now that I did it seems pretty square to the base. I've checked multiple times now. I will never try to set the thing up for beveled cuts though lol.

Good tips here. I'll toss in mine. A few things I learned right off of the bat. As I had some similar issues cutting straight with it back when I first got it. 

Keep the saw completely supported before it even enters the material to be cut. A board clamped for a guide isn't sufficient ime. Make one of those zero-clearance rip fences with plywood for the base. All that you have to do is take maybe an 18" wide by 5,6, or 8 foot long section of plywood with a factory edge on one of the short sides. Take another section of plywood that's the same length but maybe 6" wide at most and has a factory edge on the long side. That long side is your guide. Attach it to the wider board with one screw, leaving a little more than the width of your saws base on the right side, and use the factory edge on the back of the base to square off the factory edge on the guide. Screw it down snug. Rip the excess by running the saw along your guide. Flip it over and mount another plywood strip to the bottom perpendicular to the guide, squaring it off to the side you just cut off. Now you have something that you can butt up square to your boards that should be about as straight as you can get. Quick to make and easy to use. It's self aligning. It supports your saw. Make a handful of them in different lengths. You'll use them every time you break out sheet goods.

If you leave a little excess on the left side you can even clamp it down. But keep in mind - If you're doing a 4-foot rip, the guide needs to be about 5 feet long, with the strip on the bottom set maybe 8 inches from the back edge. That way the shoe can rest on the overhang. When you start the saw, the vibration will take it off alignment with your guide. Much easier to correct before you start your cut when the shoe is fully resting on the base of your guide than with the shoe half hanging off your material. You can pull it over to the board and start your cut with the saw completely flat and straight. It also helps that this jig pulls the blade guide back before your reach your material.

If the saw is veering to the right, stand to the left. Keep your grip and posture so that your body naturally pulls left. You shouldn't need to force it at all. All you're doing is directing it. Also beware the vibration... especially with finer blades. If you don't keep that under control, the blade will gradually veer. And once it does it can be hard to get off of that path. It's always gonna wanna push away from your guide in this case. Watch the saw. If it starts to wobble, you can correct it by turning your wrists. Almost like driving a car. Personally I've learned to mostly grip with one hand, though. When the saw wants to misbehave, I carefully pinch the top left corner of the shoe to the guide until it levels back out. I keep that hand free for that.

Another thing to consider... if the right edge of your cut line is scrap, then veering into it doesn't matter so much. You can always make a second pass to shave off the excess. Just start from the beginning and you'll catch the excess. Your edge may have some slight gouges where you veered and the saw went back into your work. Nothing some tactful sanding cant fix, however.


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## garek007 (Jan 8, 2016)

gj13us said:


> My dad repeated that over and over and over again. Took me 40 years to finally understand. :laugh2:
> 
> I was going to offer the same advice: *don't rush it*. Are you wearing ear protection? Loud noise and inexperience lead to stress, which leads to a rushed job.


No ear protection, but I'll try that.


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## garek007 (Jan 8, 2016)

Shop_Rat said:


> NOTE: I hold the guard open at blade entry because the force needed to open it while pushing can cause the saw to do weird things, like veer away.


Good tip, I was letting it open itself, I'll try it your way.


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## garek007 (Jan 8, 2016)

zyglrox said:


> I'm not so sure it's the blade. I have that exact same saw and the blade cuts perfectly true. If anything, it's easier to control because of how aggressive it is. The blade of course matters. A finer blade works slower and can be hard to control, though if you let it go the speed it wants to, it'll behave for you and cut really clean edges. Just be aware that when the blade hits a denser patch, it'll want to slow down a little. And if you don't let it, it'll veer. Whereas a 24t blade is removing so much material it's unlikely to bog down and veer in the first place.
> 
> Mine cut on a slight bevel out of the box. The gauge had a little stop just a couple of degrees before "90" and I had to actually shove it to get it there. Now that I did it seems pretty square to the base. I've checked multiple times now. I will never try to set the thing up for beveled cuts though lol.
> 
> ...


Thanks this is very helpful. I think it could be supporting my saw before first cut. I notice I have nothing to rest it on and that is not only scary, but it just feels like I'm not going to be lined up properly.


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## zyglrox (Dec 24, 2017)

garek007 said:


> Thanks this is very helpful. I think it could be supporting my saw before first cut. I notice I have nothing to rest it on and that is not only scary, but it just feels like I'm not going to be lined up properly.


Haha yes, that can get quite sketchy, not to mention how cumbersome it is to line the saw up and feed it into your work simultaneously.

And yes having it going in straight does make a big difference. The width of the blade makes it want to stay on the path it's on. Circular saws, and table saws, for that matter are very stubborn that way. And having to take it off of that path has a way of making it go in an opposite but equally wrong direction.  It's much easier to start the saw where you want it and keep it there than it is to try and correct it after its gone off course.

I really do encourage you to try that jig. They're super handy. In fact they're the only reason I see fit to try and get by without a table saw atm. You can even use short ones to do crosscutting of 1x's and 2x's by propping it up on a spare board (though it's not as consistent... I'll just say I'm glad I have a miter saw for that.) 

Here's some pictures of my most recent one... ...just to give you an idea of how easy they can be to slap together. Doesn't take much. I salvaged this wood from a trailer park... ...they like to use that cheap 5mm plywood for paneling. They throw out huge heaps of their excess. As long as you catch it that day it's perfectly flat. I started with one scrap piece and then laminated a couple more underneath for stability. Took me maybe 20-30 minutes to make. The pine board I just happened to have laying around. I think a plywood factory edge is always better, but this is "premium" pine and it's pretty darned straight. In spite of how it looks, it actually gives me nice straight cuts! I even goofed and used screws that were a sniz too long at first! Didn't matter once I swapped em out. Just had to keep it square while I changed them. And then I made it longer with a spare scrap. Point here is you can easily tweak them to your liking. Get creative.

Also, a little tip... PRE-DRILL for your screws. Align the boards first, drill the holes with it aligned, and drive in the screws. Do every hole/screw one by one, checking alignment after each new hole/screw. Otherwise the screws can actually pull it out of alignment... ...especially if they wind up pushing your guide away from the base like they often want to if you don't carefully pre-drill... ...trust me it sucks to drive in a couple dozen fasters only to find out your jig isn't even a little bit straight.

Right... pictures. First one's the top. Second ones the back/bottom. And then a little side view. You'll see that you can make em out of anything. They don't have to be pretty. Just reasonably sound and stable. The bottom piece just has to be made square to the long fence on top. There are tons of ways to do it. Also note how I set the board on the underside a bit shy of the back edge. Gives the saw a little something to rest on when I have the jig butted against the sheet I'm cutting. Honestly I don't know what I was thinking - I should have set it another couple inches forward. But what you see there is adequate.


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## bruhaha (Aug 10, 2020)

*Had the same problem, it's not you, it's the saw*

I know this topic is old, but I had the exact same problem using the exact same method OP was using with the same cheap skilsaw. I did everything suggested in this forum - raising the blade to keep the depth at a minimum, checking straightness of the wood guide, double checking straightness of cut line, etc. Even keeping the saw against the guide perfectly, the beginning of the cut was fine, but by end of the cut it was always off the line by about 1/8". The saw would slow down and bind the further the cut went in. I checked the alignment of the blade relative to the shoe - and it was off significantly. I held a straight edge to the blade and saw that the angle created just about a 1/8" difference at either end of the shoe. I found the mis-alignment increased the more I raised the blade. That's just too much. I also found that I could spot the mis-alignment just looking at the guard.

So I took back the skilsaw. Looked at the same saw on display at the store. I could tell from looking at the guard (even with the play/wiggle) that it had the same problem. I looked at several others, eyeballing the alignment and went with a Metabo, a more expensive saw. Took it home and tried it using the same techniques as before - and got a perfect cut the first time. I went on to build two staircases with no problem. So while I am never quick to blame a tool for my troubles, in this case it really was the tool to blame. I was doing everything right, but if a saw is badly aligned it will never cut straight. Just wanted to share this in case other do-it-yourselfers are having the same problem!


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## garek007 (Jan 8, 2016)

bruhaha said:


> I know this topic is old, but I had the exact same problem using the exact same method OP was using with the same cheap skilsaw. I did everything suggested in this forum - raising the blade to keep the depth at a minimum, checking straightness of the wood guide, double checking straightness of cut line, etc. Even keeping the saw against the guide perfectly, the beginning of the cut was fine, but by end of the cut it was always off the line by about 1/8". The saw would slow down and bind the further the cut went in. I checked the alignment of the blade relative to the shoe - and it was off significantly. I held a straight edge to the blade and saw that the angle created just about a 1/8" difference at either end of the shoe. I found the mis-alignment increased the more I raised the blade. That's just too much. I also found that I could spot the mis-alignment just looking at the guard.
> 
> So I took back the skilsaw. Looked at the same saw on display at the store. I could tell from looking at the guard (even with the play/wiggle) that it had the same problem. I looked at several others, eyeballing the alignment and went with a Metabo, a more expensive saw. Took it home and tried it using the same techniques as before - and got a perfect cut the first time. I went on to build two staircases with no problem. So while I am never quick to blame a tool for my troubles, in this case it really was the tool to blame. I was doing everything right, but if a saw is badly aligned it will never cut straight. Just wanted to share this in case other do-it-yourselfers are having the same problem!


Good to know, thanks for posting. I haven't used the saw much since I bought it. I used it to help me take apart a deck, it was good for that when I didn't have to cut straight. Maybe I'll buy a new one.


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