# Completely remove boiled linseed oil 'staining'



## Infuego (Apr 23, 2012)

I recently acquired an aproximately 20 year old guitar with a maple neck. Unfortunately, the previous owner stated he had applied boiled linseed oil aproximately 6 years ago and aroun 6 months ago as well. The result would be what I consider a less than desirable appearance. Compleste darkening/staining of some areas, and a 'flame' like looking staing in others. 

I would like to completely remove the boiled linseed oil's effects upon the color and appearance on the maple. I have tried out some naptha along with a little elbow greease, and it does appear to have lightened...but not 'solved' the issue by anymeans.

Are there any methods that may actually work to rid the wood of the linseed oil? If need be, I can sand the wood if it would be necessary, but I am trying to avoid that if there is another method which will work...the neck is in fine shape other than the finish. Also, if sanding would be required, should I use any additional solvents, etc after doing so.

Thank you so very much for any help/advice you may provide.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Infuego said:


> I recently acquired an aproximately 20 year old guitar with a maple neck. Unfortunately, the previous owner stated he had applied boiled linseed oil approximately 6 years ago and around 6 months ago as well. The result would be what I consider a less than desirable appearance. Complete darkening/staining of some areas, and a 'flame' like looking stain in others.
> 
> I would like to completely remove the boiled linseed oil's effects upon the color and appearance on the maple. I have tried out some naptha along with a little elbow grease, and it does appear to have lightened...but not 'solved' the issue by any means.
> 
> ...


As you've found out Naphtha is not a good solvent for removing BLO, Very mild in nature as to breaking polarity and and hydrogen bonds. 

Since what is necessary to do so is not readily available to the homeowner, i would suggest using warm [100 degree] acetone heat water up to 120 or so then put a container with loose cap of acetone [make sure it's loose no build up of pressure possible] in the water [away from heat source] and applying it with 4-0000 4/0 steel wool [wear gloves] brushing it on first and keeping it wet [while protecting any areas you don't want affected] and after several minutes steel wooling as much off as possible. Continue this till you see no evidence of surface oils once totally dry, what is deep in the wood will have to be treated differently, and all of it will not be removed, but at least you'll be able to move forward with finishing at that point. 

Just a starting point ok?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Infuego said:


> I would like to completely remove the boiled linseed oil's effects upon the color and appearance on the maple. I have tried out some naptha along with a little elbow greease, and it does appear to have lightened...but not 'solved' the issue by anymeans.
> 
> Are there any methods that may actually work to rid the wood of the linseed oil? If need be, I can sand the wood if it would be necessary, but I am trying to avoid that if there is another method which will work...the neck is in fine shape other than the finish. Also, if sanding would be required, should I use any additional solvents, etc after doing so.
> 
> Thank you so very much for any help/advice you may provide.



If you have lacquer thinner, try a wipe down with it.










 







.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Hey infuego, LT will remove some of it for sure, most store brands do have acetone in them. if your satisfied with that then by all means do so. if the color is still dark and not looking like the normal color of wood species [maple/mahogany/etc.] Then at least you have another way to go ok?


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## Infuego (Apr 23, 2012)

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. Suggestions so far are along my thinking. The maple is generally finished on these, so I'm wondering if some of the BLO may have 'crept' under it from the looks of things. I guess in the end, there is only one way to find out...get to work.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Infuego said:


> Thanks everyone for the quick responses. Suggestions so far are along my thinking. The maple is generally finished on these, so I'm wondering if some of the BLO may have 'crept' under it from the looks of things. I guess in the end, there is only one way to find out...get to work.


Sorry infuego, i didnt understand that he put it over the existing finish, lacquer thinner or acetone will eat the finish off most likely, if thats the case you'd be better off wet sanding it off with fine paper 400-600 grit, hope you get this before going ahead with the others. should have made it clearer sorry.


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## Infuego (Apr 23, 2012)

I was thinking that too Chemmy. I won't have a chance to work on it for a couple days, so you weren't too late.

I've decided I am going to refret this thing, and go ahead and sand down some, and solvent after if sanding alone doesn't do the trick. I have accumalted a few various radius sanders over the years for this type of project, and it's probably the best thing to do. Originally planned to just sand level and recrown the frets, and do nothing with the wood, but....now, looks like I'm sanding, refinishing, etc.

I will be keeping and playing this thing for a good many years I am sure. I have a few guitars I have picked up over the years that I won't part with regrdless of the offer someone might make for it...and, this looks like it will be another. It is definately one of the 'good ones' from the factory, so if the previous owner just hadn't messed with a beautiful natural maple it would be near perfect.

Just keeping my fingers crossed that the cosmetic blemish can be corrected. If not, it still sounds better than its's cousins so ears will be happy even if my eyes are not.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Infuego said:


> I was thinking that too Chemmy. I won't have a chance to work on it for a couple days, so you weren't too late.
> 
> I've decided I am going to refret this thing, and go ahead and sand down some, and solvent after if sanding alone doesn't do the trick. I have accumalted a few various radius sanders over the years for this type of project, and it's probably the best thing to do. Originally planned to just sand level and recrown the frets, and do nothing with the wood, but....now, looks like I'm sanding, refinishing, etc.
> 
> ...


glad i wasn't to late, hope it turns out fine also, good luck !!


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