# Any BENCHTOP drill press with spindle travel of 4" or more?



## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

For space and weight reasons, I am looking for a benchtop drill press. But, I strongly prefer a spindle travel of 4" or more. 

Since I need absolutely clean full length holes of 1/4" to 1/2" diameter, drilling halfway through from one side and then the other won't give me the hole quality I need.

Looking at many websites, it seems that benchtop drill presses in general top out at around 3-1/2", and even most floor mount drill presses are similar,except for the Rockwell, Powermatic, and Jet 15" or larger offerings, which all unfortunately weigh at least 200 lb AND very top heavy!

I looked too at milling / drilling machines that are targeted at metalworking versus woodworking, and a number of those have spindle travel of 4" or more, BUT at least one manufacturer told me that these are usually designed with motors that pull air through aggressive for cooling, and plug up and fail when exposed to a lot of sawdust. In addition, the same manufacturer warned me that sawdust will quickly clog the table ways and adjsutment screws, especially since those have to be kept well lubricated.

I could possibly live with a 3-1/2" travel but that WOULD limit my designs. 4" or even as much more as I can get without the machine becoming a bohemoth, would be a big plus.

Does anyone out there know of any woodworking benchtop drill presses that have a 4" or greater spindle travel?

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*almost impossible to find ...*

But here's one:
http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2SR...PAHDID=000000081892339&PARDID=463441312528886


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

You can drill 3 inches deep, and then raise the table and finish drilling. It should provide perfect alignment since you don't have to flip the piece over.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

3-1/2" is typical. Need to go to an industrial model to get beyond that. I had the same considerations when I bought mine, and ended up with a Delta/Rockwell machine that I bought used through the local bargain news (like craigs list but paper). It has a 6" quill travel, paid $200 for it.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> But here's one:
> http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2SR...PAHDID=000000081892339&PARDID=463441312528886


Thank-you, Woodnthings! As usual, you are The Man! I am not familiar with the Palmgren brand, but the specs look good, and the weight, being 174 lb NET (185 shipping weight), suggests it is built to the same robust level as the Delta or Powermatic floor models.

In fact, looking at the online owner manual, it seems that the Palmgren benchtop model is the same as the floor model except for the length of the column and a slightly large base for the floor model! (They share all other components).

The really impressive statistics is that the spindle travel is 5 inches, exceeding my 4" or better target!

Not everything is perfect though. The 174 lb weight is up there, only about 13 lb less than the Jet floor model) and 26 to 76 lb lighter than the Powermatic and Delta floor models, but a lot less tippy when moving it than a floor model would be. I would have liked something in the 125 lb range, but now I at least have a choice: too-little spindle travel with a lighter drill press, or this impressive 5" spindle travel with more weight than I would prefer. I can grapple with that and make a decision.

Thank-you!

How much lighter might a benchtop drill press of reasonable quality get? I ask because if only 25 lb lighter, I'll take the weight penalty to get that 5" travel. If 50 lb lighter, may need to think about it! 

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

hwebb99 said:


> You can drill 3 inches deep, and then raise the table and finish drilling. It should provide perfect alignment since you don't have to flip the piece over.


Yes, I agree with you, BUT, it is slow, awkward, and can still affect the interior finish of the hole. I'd really prefer to do it all in one controlled stroke.

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Maylar said:


> 3-1/2" is typical. Need to go to an industrial model to get beyond that. I had the same considerations when I bought mine, and ended up with a Delta/Rockwell machine that I bought used through the local bargain news (like craigs list but paper). It has a 6" quill travel, paid $200 for it.


Is the one you bought a benchtop or floor model? (your posting does not actually specify, and I THINK the only model Delta with 6" stroke is a floor model)

What does it weigh? (if it's the FLOOR model, it's about 250 lb I think!)

And, I prefer the "industrial" quality - provided that it does not weigh "a ton"! 

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Wow, I just noticed something in the manual not even mentioned in the ad WoodnThings provided: The Palmgren drill press has a digital display that shows spindle rpm and spindle depth readings!! This is a definite plus!

Jim G


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Weight is good. I have a 4000 pound capacity engine hoist in my shop for moving tools.


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## Bob Vaughan (Oct 29, 2008)

For quality on a budget, used will have to be the way to go.
Consider a used Craftsman (USA- emerson made) drill press. They often had a 6" throw although most had only a 4" throw. They are the ones that used the skinny belt but had lots of speed variations.

Since the bases the floor models aren't all that big, a press beside a bench makes good sense. The table can be lowered to be even with the bench. Working bench space in a small shop is even more precious than floor space.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Turn the DP around and jack the work piece up into the drill.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Many bench top machines are mounted semi-permanently on their own stands. 
The weight issue becomes a non-factor when the machine is mounted.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Well, portability is important when you only have a trailer as your workshop!Yes, I can of course go outdoors for long rips and planes with the saw and planer, and our moderate and low-rain climate allows that most days of the year (Texas), but I don't want to HAVE to go outside to work nor move pieces of equipment that are too heavy even within the trailer, even though I am pretty strong. (The trailer is not large enough to leave more than a minimal number of pieces of equipment in one permanent spot)

I did just this evening find a benchtop Steel City drill press at Home Depot that offers variable speed, digital readout of speed and travel, boasts a 3/4 hp motor, and weighs only 108 lb. The spindle travel is only 3.25 inches though.

So, the decision to make comes down to which is more important to me, 4" of speed travel versus 3.25" or 108 lb versus 174 lb. (comparing the 3.25" tarvel Steel City to the 5" travel Palmgren).

Shorter spindle travel does limit the overall size and therefore also scale of parts I can make (for children's toys). Higher weight means the drill press has to basically be "permanent fixed location" within the trailer.

Hmmm . . . tough choice to have to make.

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*For Your Info ...*

There is a thread titled "Show us your shop" in the General Woodworking Forum. There are several trailer shops there. 
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/show-us-your-shop-73/
This one is on page 1 about 5 posts down by Big Dave:

I just got in from taking pictures of my shop. Being more of an on the job woodworker I have a shop trailer. I bought the trailer earlier this year and have it set up just about perfect. I have been wanting this for about 6 years and have been planning it to a T. Here are the pictures, enjoy.








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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

If I came into some money I'd get the Powermatic and build mobile base for it. I don't have a whole lot more room than that trailer, but the more I read about it the more I want it. Six inches of travel. A 1hp motor(which, at 15amps, is probably severely under rated). Digital readout. Electronic variable speed. Handle that can be configure for left handed use, which would be perfect for my left-handed self. Keyless chuck. 

Yes, it weighs a lot. But if you build a mobile base with some good quality casters, maybe a little storage, that would nullify the mobility of it.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> There is a thread titled "Show us your shop" in the General Woodworking Forum. There are several trailer shops there.
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/show-us-your-shop-73/
> This one is on page 1 about 5 posts down by Big Dave:
> 
> ...


Thank-you, WoodnThings! This is pretty inspirational and shows some really good specific ideas. One example: Notice how the portable table saw, which has to be movable to be usable for both crosscutting and ripping, is stored at the front end of the trailer, and with barriers on each side, so that when the tow vehicle and trailer need to brake suddenly, the saw has nowhere to move.

Another example: notice how the panel saw and miter saw are both mounted near the rear of the trailer, by the big door, for easy access of large amounts of stock to cut.

Then there's the fire extinguisher, and the guardrails on the undercounter storage shelves that keep stuff from sliding out when the trailer is taking sharp turns on the road.

Great lighting.

This trailer was very well thought out.

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Mort said:


> If I came into some money I'd get the Powermatic and build mobile base for it. I don't have a whole lot more room than that trailer, but the more I read about it the more I want it. Six inches of travel. A 1hp motor(which, at 15amps, is probably severely under rated). Digital readout. Electronic variable speed. Handle that can be configure for left handed use, which would be perfect for my left-handed self. Keyless chuck.
> 
> Yes, it weighs a lot. But if you build a mobile base with some good quality casters, maybe a little storage, that would nullify the mobility of it.


Mort, I neglected for brevity reasons, mentioning something else that affects my thinking a lot, and that is that the trailer is very multi-purpose.

It is one of the most useful things I have ever bought. So, it occasionally has to be "cleared out" for use in one of its other roles.This means it is very desirable that no individual machine weigh too much for one man to handle and lift, else I become dependent on getting another man's help each time I need the trailer for one of the other roles.

With individual machines weighing up to a certain weight and shape, I can handle moving all of them individually as needed. Once they get too heavy, or like a drill press, too top-end heavy for safe movement, they become a problem. In fact, a top heavy drill press would realistically need to be somehow fastened to both the wall of the trailer and the floor if the trailer was moved with it in the trailer, in order to prevent a catastrophic fall on hard braking or even sharp turns. A lighter, benchtop sized drill press is a whole lot more stable underway, and MUCH easier to lift onto a workbench when needed.

I LOVE that Powermatic's specs - I too lusted over it when I found the Powermatic web page. And, I could rationalize coming up with the money too. But the weight of it, and even of the lighter Palmgren (174 lb) gives me great pause to think more about it.

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*use a hand truck with ratchet straps*

I use a 2 wheel hand truck for moving all sorts of top heavy machines like a 19" bandsaw, drill press etc. It works great with a ratchet strap to hold the column against a pad or block, between the frame. It works great with a table saw also. Tipping the loaded truck back onto it's wheels is a learned technique and overtipping means you get an bicep and upper body workout for free.

If it were me, I go for a floor drill press and save the back trying to lift up a bench top. I have 2 bench top DPs and they're not "light" but still manageable. I have moved many a 500 to 800 lb machine around including several up to a 2nd floor shop via a chainfall.
Any machine you get will need to be strapped or bolted down in a moving trailer. So make provisions for eyebolts in the walls for the straps.

Stopping momentum carries all loose objects to the front of the vehicle..... including kids and dogs.... just sayin'


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

You can move around 500 pounds with a hand cart, maybe more if your are stout. The trailer ramp presents a problem and make it drastically harder.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Hand carts won't work, as the only place I have to store the pieces of equipment when they are not in the trailer is in the rented cabin's porch. This involves going up a 4 foot flight of stairs, with a 90 degree bend halfway up, from a SLOPED GRAVEL driveway! 

So, realistically, I need to be able to carry them (Which means the SawStop needs to be detached from its cart and carried, unless the whole rig (79 lb saw plus 29 lb cart) can be somehow rolled up the stairs despite its awkward shape and funny balance), which seems like a bit of a stretch. :smile:

I never said it was going to be easy. I am, though, pretty persistent when I get motivated to do something. :smile:

Jim G


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## Kansas Gary (Nov 13, 2014)

Another idea is to find a floor model drill press that meets your specifications and just cut the post off at the top or bottom and reattach what ever part you took off to make the post shorter.... Then you can mount it on the bench................... Custom made bench top drill press!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Kansas Gary said:


> Another idea is to find a floor model drill press that meets your specifications and just cut the post off at the top or bottom and reattach what ever part you took off to make the post shorter.... Then you can mount it on the bench................... Custom made bench top drill press!!!!!!!!!!!!!


 But the reduction in weight is very minimal. It was probably easier to move when it was taller. Another problem is the post is very likely turned down at the top, so unless you have a metal lathe you can't make this work. If the post was steel you could cut the section out of the middle, but it is likely cast iron. Cast iron can be welded, but it is complicated.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

JimGnitecki said:


> Is the one you bought a benchtop or floor model? (your posting does not actually specify, and I THINK the only model Delta with 6" stroke is a floor model)
> 
> What does it weigh? (if it's the FLOOR model, it's about 250 lb I think!)
> 
> ...


Yes, it's a floor model. But honestly it has a pretty small footprint and doesn't get in the way in my crowded shop. As for weight, me and my teenage son were able to move it off my utility trailer and into the shop - it certainly weighs less than any of my other stationary tools.

You're between a rock and a hard place. An industrial DP with cast iron table and 6" travel is not a lightweight tool. A lightweight bench model for the hobby guy isn't going to have that much quill travel.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Kansas Gary said:


> Another idea is to find a floor model drill press that meets your specifications and just cut the post off at the top or bottom and reattach what ever part you took off to make the post shorter.... Then you can mount it on the bench................... Custom made bench top drill press!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Why go to all that bother, just get a bench top with the same specs as the floor model, most full size units come in both styles and are identical except for the post length.

OOPs, should have read the specs, that is a monster.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

FrankC said:


> Why go to all that bother, just get a bench top with the same specs as the floor model, most full size units come in both styles and are identical except for the post length.
> 
> OOPs, should have read the specs, that is a monster.


Yes, it IS a monster!!

Jim G


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## coxhaus (Jul 28, 2012)

I just bought an old Atlas 1020 drill press. It has 4 inches of travel. The 1020 is a bench model but someone had changed the pole and base to a floor model. I bought it for $80 and then fixed it up.

Here are a couple of pictures.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Do you have any idea of the weight of the Atlas?

Jim G


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## coxhaus (Jul 28, 2012)

Jim I have scanned the internet and cannot find the weight of an Atlas drill press. If I had to guess it would 200+ pounds. I have added a bigger heavier motor and I added an 8 inch extension to the tube on the bottom to allow me to move the head up and down rather than move the table. I want to keep the table the height of my work bench to allow for a larger work area since my drill press is next to my work bench.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

coxhaus said:


> Jim I have scanned the internet and cannot find the weight of an Atlas drill press. If I had to guess it would 200+ pounds. I have added a bigger heavier motor and I added an 8 inch extension to the tube on the bottom to allow me to move the head up and down rather than move the table. I want to keep the table the height of my work bench to allow for a larger work area since my drill press is next to my work bench.


Yeah, 200 lb is a problem. By making weight a factor in my machine choices, I can keep the total weight of the "shop" to about 324 lb., which makes using the trailer as the location, practical!! In that universe, 200 lb is too much to 'spend" on the drill press.

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*this one meets your requirements*

I posted this one way back around post no. 2 ...

http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2SRI...63441312528886


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> I posted this one way back around post no. 2 ...
> 
> http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2SRI...63441312528886


Yes, but it is 185 lb, which is a bit heavy for portability.

I was at a Woodcraft store yesterday, and noticed the small size, manageable weight, long strokes, and substantial motors of 2 of the mortisers, and asked one of the staff if a mortiser can function as a drill press. But, he told me that the "hood" that comes down around the chuck is so long that most drill bits are swallowed up and barely extend beyond the hood.

Another customer said I could "just get an ER32 Collet Chuck Extension" to get the drill bit out past the hood, but I lack the machine tool knowledge to even know what he was talking about. 

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Right now the 2 leading contenders are:

At Home Depot: (still on website, but might no longer be available)
Steel City Model # 20130VS Internet # 204766619 13 in. Variable Speed Drill Press
108 lb, true Variable Speed (!), Digital Read Out, 3.25” travel
10”w x 16”d x 30”h (2.8 cu ft)
$379 direct + freight

Jet JDP-15M
16 speeds (pulleys, NOT true VS), 3.25” stroke, 3/4 hp
13w x 31d (including a large table) x 39.5h
150 lb (pretty heavy to move regularly)
$540 shipped on Amazon

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK, this just occured to me ...*

Why not look into a Shop Smith? It's got all your tools on one platform which can be rolled in or out. 

The only disadvantage is the table saw, which require you tilt the very small table for bevels, BUT for most cuts a miter will work instead. The best part is the variable speed lathe and drill press in my opinion. I've never owned one myself, but some owners rave about them.... just ask them. :yes:
Craig's List or Ebay will have some:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-SvTOOUgwQ


http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHOPSMITH-MARK-V-WOOD-WORKING-LATHE-CUTTER-SAW/272063045334?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Df979d882fe124d6faf11d0352ab5b7a6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D252165037275


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Why not look into a Shop Smith? It's got all your tools on one platform which can be rolled in or out. The only disadvantage is the table saw, which require you tilt the very small table for bevels, BUT for most cuts a miter will work instead. The best part is the variable speed lathe and drill press in my opinion. I've never owned one myself, but some owners rave about them.... just ask them. :yes: Craig's List or Ebay will have some: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-SvTOOUgwQ http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHOPSMITH-MARK-V-WOOD-WORKING-LATHE-CUTTER-SAW/272063045334?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Df979d882fe124d6faf11d0352ab5b7a6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D252165037275


 He wants light. A shop smith is pretty dang heavy. He is going to have to get over the weight requirements or give up size, because such a tool doesn't exist.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It has casters so ....*



hwebb99 said:


> He wants light. A shop smith is pretty dang heavy. He is going to have to get over the weight requirements or give up size, because such a tool doesn't exist.



With casters he won't have to carry it. It will roll in and out of the trailer easily, with a good ramp. Why carry it when you can roll it? Weight won't be a factor and will actually make it more stable AND where else can you get 5 machines in a bicycle sized space? :blink: And you get a long throw drill press, the original request.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I have never seen a cargo trailer ramp those casters would roll up. The steps on his front porch throw a real monkey wrench in the plan. The gravel driveway even further makes the casters useless.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*let him decide...*



hwebb99 said:


> I have never seen a cargo trailer ramp those casters would roll up. The steps on his front porch throw a real monkey wrench in the plan. The gravel driveway even further makes the casters useless.


You may have good points, but that's a decision only he will best make. Besides, It may solve other issues for space, I donno? Larger casters will help on a ramp, but a gravel driveway would require some plywood sheets. Depends on how much in and out is on the program. This whole concept is begging for a better answer in my opinion, but with limited space and funds we are trying to help as best we can. :yes:

I think he would find uses for the lathe for making small toys. A disc sander would be good also. You don't need a cabinet saw for small parts.... etc...


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Personally, I think he would be better off abandoning the trailer idea, but that is his decision.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> Why not look into a Shop Smith? It's got all your tools on one platform which can be rolled in or out.
> 
> The only disadvantage is the table saw, which require you tilt the very small table for bevels, BUT for most cuts a miter will work instead. The best part is the variable speed lathe and drill press in my opinion. I've never owned one myself, but some owners rave about them.... just ask them. :yes:
> Craig's List or Ebay will have some:
> ...


The Shopsmith is too large and too heavy to be "portable". I want portable.

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

A workable plan is coming together.

The SawStop is definitely the saw solution. It is a bit bigger than I would like overall, but the safety of that saw stopping technology is worth the size penalty to me. The features are fantastic. GREAT ergonomics, fast/easy use, and quality. Removing the cart it comes with, leaves the saw dimensions at 31.75” W x 28.75” D (26.63 if you disregard the crank handle that sticks out) x 15.5” high. The weight, at 79 lb, is fine.

The planer will be a DW734 versus the DW735, simply because it is both lighter (80 lb versus 92) and considerably smaller in "footprint" (17w x 24d x 21h versus 26.63"w x 23.75" with tables folded as far as possible x 14.5h). The smaller 12.5” capacity, single speed, manual versus auto cutterhead lock, and no thickness stops, are unimportant to my use, and the 734, unlike the 735, does include the feed tables as standard equipment!).

The combination belt/disc sander will be the Rockwell RK7866, which is 10.6”w x21.75”d x 12.6”h and weighs only 45 lb.

The arbor press will be a Jet AP-1 which is 5"w x 10.75"d x12"h and weighs only 27 lb. Its vertical clearance will handle the maximum 5" height I need, and its 1 ton capacity is more than enough.

So, so far the entire equipment package, before drill press, will fit onto a 59.25" x 26.63" footprint or benchtop, and the weight is only a total of 231 lb! This will fit into either the insulated trailer, or into an insulated & heated cabinet on the porch. In either location, the one tool being used at any point in time would simply be lifted onto either a portable foldable stand that can accommodate any of the 5 machines, OR, if on the porch, simply placed on top of the machine storage cabinet. It is of NO inconvenience to me to work this way one machine at a time.

A custom cabinet on the porch would need to only have an interior height of whatever height the drill press needs, and an INTERIOR footprint only larger than 59.25" x 26.63" by whatever footprint the drill press adds! This is surely practical (The porch is 90" x 127")

SO, THIS IS WHY the size and weight of the drill press are worth minimizing . . .

I am sooooo close now to having a workable plan.

If I reset my drill press requirements to the absolute minimums, in order to really minimize the weight and footprint, here's what they look like:

- Spindle stroke >= 3.25". The 3.25" versus 4" spindle stroke would necessitate some design limits on the toys I make.

- Enough power to drive a 1.5" Forstner bit into up to 1" of some very hard woods (Zebrawood, Padauk, Purpleheart, etc). The 1.5" diameter by 1" depth hole requirement is a VERY common occurrence in the toys I like to make

- Either step speeds or ideally fully variable speed, so I can optimize the rpm for any given material and size of hole to get high quality results

- Benchtop, not floor model, as I want it to fit into the storage cabinet if on the porch, or remain stably upright when in a moving trailer

- As low an overall height as possible, as the drill press will easily be the highest individual machine height, and therefor sets the height requirements for the storage cabinet or space.

- Weight no more than about 125 lb, and ideally as low as possible consistent with the above dimensional and power requirements, and overall quality.

These minimum specs are now what I will focus on.

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If you want portable ...*

You could put some 8" wheels and an axle on one end of a Shop Smith and you could push or pull it like a wheel barrow. I did this on 2 - 12" table saws I had bolted together, weight was over 400 lbs and I could lift one end and roll them around easily. 

But, If you have your mind made up, that's fine. I just think you may be missing a solution that's a bit outside of the box for your very specialized requirements.

A drill press without adequate travel is a royal pain in the butt. BTDT. It will frustrate you each time you try to drill a deep hole.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> You could put some 8" wheels and an axle on one end of a Shop Smith and you could push or pull it like a wheel barrow. I did this on 2 - 12" table saws I had bolted together, weight was over 400 lbs and I could lift one end and roll them around easily. But, If you have your mind made up, that's fine. I just think you may be missing a solution that's a bit outside of the box for your very specialized requirements. A drill press without adequate travel is a royal pain in the butt. BTDT. It will frustrate you each time you try to drill a deep hole.


 Still can't roll it up steps. The best solution is to abandon the trailer.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*let's not give up quite yet*



hwebb99 said:


> Still can't roll it up steps. The best solution is to abandon the trailer.


My woodshop is up a flight of 15 steps. There are 2 ways to get things up there. The stairway and the French doors that open over the concrete slab. There are 2ways to get things up the stairs... carry them and winch them up the stairs. My 12" Foley planer and 15" Jet planer were winched up the step by using ! X planks on either side leaving the thread open in between. The winch was a 12 V Harbor Freight with forward and reverse attached to a bar across at the top of the steps. It worked perfectly using either the wheels on the machine or a sled which spanned the planks.

The French doors were used after I figured out I had a 12" X 6" beam hanging out over the doors and a 16 ft chainfall would easily lift up the heavy 5 HP Poermatic table saw. It also lifted it down when I decided it wouldn't be needed for that shop.

I wouldn't recommend carrying anything up the steps heavier than 80 lbs. One missed step or an off balance foot plant and you are in serious trouble. Twice that amount is out of the question. An appliance dolly will have tracks or glides above the wheels to slide on the treads and they are capable of moving 300 to 400 lb loads up or down stairs. A 4 step rise would be about 48" off grade. It's very possible a fold uip aluminum 4 wheeler ramp would work to move a hand truck up the stairs. 2" X 12" planks are strong enough to support a heavy load out to about 8 ft. A U haul aluminum moving ramp would also work. There are ways.....


The winch was only $50.00 on sale at HF and will tow 1500 lbs. rolling weight. A dedicated dolly that would accept the machines and have ratchet straps or other hold downs would be my suggestion. By placing the trailer close to the steps and not using it's ramp, but going directly up out of the trailer you would gain about 1 ft of height making it that much easier to move things. I would sheet over the gravel with plywood if I had to move anything over it.

Just some ideas......


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> My woodshop is up a flight of 15 steps. There are 2 ways to get things up there. The stairway and the French doors that open over the concrete slab. There are 2ways to get things up the stairs... carry them and winch them up the stairs. My 12" Foley planer and 15" Jet planer were winched up the step by using ! X planks on either side leaving the thread open in between. The winch was a 12 V Harbor Freight with forward and reverse attached to a bar across at the top of the steps. It worked perfectly using either the wheels on the machine or a sled which spanned the planks.
> 
> The French doors were used after I figured out I had a 12" X 6" beam hanging out over the doors and a 16 ft chainfall would easily lift up the heavy 5 HP Poermatic table saw. It also lifted it down when I decided it wouldn't be needed for that shop.
> 
> ...


I love the equipment you have access to!!

I'm trying hard to keep things much simpler than that . . .

Jim G


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> My woodshop is up a flight of 15 steps. There are 2 ways to get things up there. The stairway and the French doors that open over the concrete slab. There are 2ways to get things up the stairs... carry them and winch them up the stairs. My 12" Foley planer and 15" Jet planer were winched up the step by using ! X planks on either side leaving the thread open in between. The winch was a 12 V Harbor Freight with forward and reverse attached to a bar across at the top of the steps. It worked perfectly using either the wheels on the machine or a sled which spanned the planks. The French doors were used after I figured out I had a 12" X 6" beam hanging out over the doors and a 16 ft chainfall would easily lift up the heavy 5 HP Poermatic table saw. It also lifted it down when I decided it wouldn't be needed for that shop. I wouldn't recommend carrying anything up the steps heavier than 80 lbs. One missed step or an off balance foot plant and you are in serious trouble. Twice that amount is out of the question. An appliance dolly will have tracks or glides above the wheels to slide on the treads and they are capable of moving 300 to 400 lb loads up or down stairs. A 4 step rise would be about 48" off grade. It's very possible a fold uip aluminum 4 wheeler ramp would work to move a hand truck up the stairs. 2" X 12" planks are strong enough to support a heavy load out to about 8 ft. A U haul aluminum moving ramp would also work. There are ways..... http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f12/17887d1289101671-lifting-heavy-table-saw-100_0627.jpg The winch was only $50.00 on sale at HF and will tow 1500 lbs. rolling weight. A dedicated dolly that would accept the machines and have ratchet straps or other hold downs would be my suggestion. By placing the trailer close to the steps and not using it's ramp, but going directly up out of the trailer you would gain about 1 ft of height making it that much easier to move things. I would sheet over the gravel with plywood if I had to move anything over it. Just some ideas...... When all else fails: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/atta...o-you-guys-move-1000-pound-tools-100_1122.jpg http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/atta...o-you-guys-move-1000-pound-tools-100_1123.jpg


 You are going to have to be pretty stout to roll very much up the four wheeler ramp using a hand truck. Using the hand truck the ramp and the winch you could do pretty good. I have a Kubota about the same size as your JD, so I have never had to resort to such measures. I also have an engine hoist in the shop, but it doesn't work very good on ramps or gravel.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*it's not about the "heavy equipment"*



JimGnitecki said:


> I love the equipment you have access to!!
> 
> I'm trying hard to keep things much simpler than that . . .
> 
> Jim G





hwebb99 said:


> You are going to have to be pretty stout to roll very much up the four wheeler ramp using a hand truck. Using the hand truck the ramp and the winch you could do pretty good. I have a Kubota about the same size as your JD, so I have never had to resort to such measures. I also have an engine hoist in the shop, but it doesn't work very good on ramps or gravel.


It's about applying leverage, physics and the reduction of human force to move the machines. Inclined ramps, winches, hoists and hand trucks can be used when brute strength is limited. Even an engine hoist or a chainfall mounted on the porch would save a back injury. When you have heavy equipment available you can take the easy way out, but I haven't always had that luxury.


You keep mentioning the gravel. There are ways to deal with it and if the maximum weight is <500 lbs it's not a huge obstacle. I agree that the trailer and the porch are very big limitations, but I'll betcha between the 3 of us we could come up with a solution. :yes:


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> It's about applying leverage, physics and the reduction of human force to move the machines. Inclined ramps, winches, hoists and hand trucks can be used when brute strength is limited. Even an engine hoist or a chainfall mounted on the porch would save a back injury. When you have heavy equipment available you can take the easy way out, but I haven't always had that luxury. You keep mentioning the gravel. There are ways to deal with it and if the maximum weight is <500 lbs it's not a huge obstacle. I agree that the trailer and the porch are very big limitations, but I'll betcha between the 3 of us we could come up with a solution. :yes:


 An engine hoist is almost worthless off a hard level surface. You could lift something up and then back a truck under it, but you can forget about rolling it. An engine weighs as much or more as a drill press, so it wouldn't be very helpful in the Op's case. I would rather have a floor standing drill press for many reasons. As far as moving it I can't lift a 185 pound drill press onto a bench. I don't want to use a drill press sitting in the floor. I can easily move a floor drill press with a hand truck no lifting required. Backing the trailer up to the porch and using a long ramp would limit the limitations. I know 4 strong guys can push 850 pounds up a ramp into a moving truck. I know 3 not as strong guys can pull a jet 18" bandsaw which weighs about 450 pounds up a lawnmower trailer ramp.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

*Getting Back to Original Question*

I once had a job where I had to drill accurate holes in some ornamental brackets that were 8" thick.

I made up a rack and pinion pad for my wood lathe that had about 12" of travel, so fed the wood into the bit.

I actually ended up with the lathe mounted vertically so the weight of the bracket and pad would allow it to drop of the bit once the hole was drilled.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

FrankC said:


> I once had a job where I had to drill accurate holes in some ornamental brackets that were 8" thick.
> 
> I made up a rack and pinion pad for my wood lathe that had about 12" of travel, so fed the wood into the bit.
> 
> I actually ended up with the lathe mounted vertically so the weight of the bracket and pad would allow it to drop of the bit once the hole was drilled.


THAT was creative engineering!

I feel like I can see the solution now, but still just need to find a benchtop drill press that fits the minimum requirements I listed above.

Jim G


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

JimGnitecki said:


> THAT was creative engineering! I feel like I can see the solution now, but still just need to find a benchtop drill press that fits the minimum requirements I listed above. Jim G


 Good luck. You can get a drill press with 4" quill travel OR you can get a drill press that weighs 80 pounds. You can't have your cake and eat it too.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

hwebb99 said:


> Good luck. You can get a drill press with 4" quill travel OR you can get a drill press that weighs 80 pounds. You can't have your cake and eat it too.


Yes, I am willing to go to 3.25" to get a notably lower weight (looks like 108 to 125 lb with a benchtop drill press that still has decent, if not industrial, quality.

Potential candidates right now:

Rikon 30-120
3.125” stroke, 1/2 hp, all HD, 5 yr warranty
13w x 24d x 39H inches
121 lb
$388 shipped from Amazon

Shop Fox W1668
(3/4hp, 9 amps, spindle stroke 3.25”, 
15w x 24d x 38h
115 lb (shipping box weight = 130)
$396 shipped Prime from Amazon

At Home Depot, but likely no longer available: 
Steel City Model # 20130VS Internet # 204766619 13 in. Variable Speed Drill Press (108 lb, VS, DRO, 3.25” travel)
10”w x 16”d x 30”h (2.8 cu ft)
$490 shipped to store

JET JDP-12 
VS, 3.125” stroke, DRO, lasers, 1/3 hp (a little low on apparent power?)
<93 lb (93 is ship wt for the carton)
$375 at Woodcraft, custom order with delivery leadtime


Jim G


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## Bob Vaughan (Oct 29, 2008)

It looks like the old Delta 11" drill press would fit the bill nicely without having to risk the quality compromise associated with Asian import machines.


From a 1972 catalog. 
This particular model had a plastic front belt guard that helps save a little weight since the older ones can have a cast iron front belt guard.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*To increase your drill travel by 1 1/2"...*

Drill your hole using the drill press table height as is. Leaving the bit in the hole, raise the drill bit more than 1 1/2", then raise the workpiece enough to slip a piece of 1 1/2" thick material under your workpiece and continue drilling.

I haven't done this except in my head, but I think it should work ...... :blink:


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Bob Vaughan said:


> It looks like the old Delta 11" drill press would fit the bill nicely without having to risk the quality compromise associated with Asian import machines.
> 
> 
> From a 1972 catalog.
> This particular model had a plastic front belt guard that helps save a little weight since the older ones can have a cast iron front belt guard.


Yes, this would work - now I juts need to find one . . . :smile:

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> Drill your hole using the drill press table height as is. Leaving the bit in the hole, raise the drill bit more than 1 1/2", then raise the workpiece enough to slip a piece of 1 1/2" thick material under your workpiece and continue drilling.
> 
> I haven't done this except in my head, but I think it should work ...... :blink:


Yes, it should. A little slow but acceptable in a low volume, non-profit-making hobby process!

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

The Jet JDP-12 specs look espeically good:

Variable Speed and by lever versus changing pulleys
3.125” stroke
Digital rpm readout
lasers
1/3 hp that is described in reviews as not at all limited in power - robust
11.1"w x 20"d x 28.9"h
84 lb (93 is ship wt)
$375 at Woodcraft, special order only

The lighter weight is achieved via use of aluminum and plastic. Multiple reviews rate this drill press very highly.

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*don't overlook these*

A drill stand will have more than enough travel AND be light enough to easily move around:









http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...p-images.search.yahoo.com&ei=UTF-8&n=60&x=wrt

Look in a 6:50 to see a great drill stand in operation, probably German made:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqQ4WsorfAc


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*German made drill stand*

https://www.wabeco-remscheid.de/boh...t-rundtisch.html?___store=en&___from_store=de


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> https://www.wabeco-remscheid.de/boh...t-rundtisch.html?___store=en&___from_store=de


WoodnThings: This is an intriguing idea. The specific one you highlighted won't work because its stroke is only a bit over 2 inches (55mm actually), but the concept is worth pursuing.

A drill stand like this would need to:

- Be very robust to prevent deflection under load, especially when using large Fortsner bits (up to 1.5" diameter)

- Hold the drill very securely

- Require a drill with a good non-tapered clamping surface

- Require a drill with a trigger lock (to keep the drill running while your right hand is used on the lever to lower the drill but into the work piece)

- Require a drill with plenty of power (hand drills are not all that powerful as a class of tool)


The weight of the one you highlighted is attractive - just 33 lb. (15 kg)

Jim G


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## bc4393 (May 6, 2015)

My delta homecraft does 4 inches if you remove the top quill jam nut and just use 1 for the stop.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

bc4393 said:


> View attachment 208841
> 
> 
> My delta homecraft does 4 inches if you remove the top quill jam nut and just use 1 for the stop.


Gosh, I love the compact size of your drill press, but where do I FIND one?

Jim G


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## bc4393 (May 6, 2015)

JimGnitecki said:


> Gosh, I love the compact size of your drill press, but where do I FIND one?
> 
> Jim G


They show up on craigslist now and again or even ebay for local pickup. I've seen then for about 150-250 in good running condition pretty consistently. Dad found this one for 35 bucks at an estate sale and refinished it.  I zoomed in on one in Dallas for 75 but with the baby I had no way to go get it.


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