# Moving a jointer?



## EM3 (Sep 12, 2011)

A few years ago my dad bought a jointer from my uncle and due to my uncles declining health and eventual passing we never got around to moving it. Now my dad wants to put it in my shop. This is a floor model and not a tabletop model. The trip is 2 hours by truck to get it. Would it be ok to lay this piece of equipment down? Standing it up may be possible but the trip is 60 miles and takes 2 hours over curvy 2 lane roads that are hilly. One of joys of living in WV.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

EM3,

I'd be a little leery of putting it on its side. It would depend on the configuration of the jointer and type of table/stand it's on. Maybe if you supported it with the proper sized wooden blocks.

As an alternative, how about just unbolt the jointer from the stand? It would be easier to move around that way and sit low in the truck.

I'm assuming you are talking about a 6 or 8 inch jointer and not something like an antique behemoth 24 inch monster.

Bill


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## Grinder (Nov 17, 2007)

Unbolt it from the base cabinet or stand.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*that's my method*



Grinder said:


> Unbolt it from the base cabinet or stand.


Reason being it's top heavy. It will travel OK if properly harnessed fore and aft and side to side...using ratcheting binders for straps...but then what?

I've moved about 5 jointers lately, up the stairs and in and out of pick up a truck, but I always unbolt the machine from the base....even then it's a 2 man job to go up the stairs. Or in my case one man and a boy stronger than me. :laughing: bill


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Would somebody please explain why they would not put the jointer on it's side to move it.

I would have no hesitation of laying my jointer on it's side to move it.

George


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## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

We used some aluminum loading ramps and a 24"x8' sheet of scrap plywood for the ramp. (If you really need some muscle you can use a coma-long to help move it up the ramp into the bed.) Loaded into the back of a pickup truck. Once in the bed, close the tailgate. Used 2" wench straps and strapped to the bed, tailgate and down to the rear bumper.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*it may not be a problem*

But any abrupt force from an unforseen bump or cargo shift on the ways from the tables in a lateral direction may cause a failure or other damage. They weren't meant to be "loaded" in that direction. I'd feel more comfortable with it upright and the tables locked in position. Just Me.  bill

If it's necessary to load it on it's side I would do everything possible to reduce the weight on the tables and transfer it to the base. For what it's worth they don't ship them on the side and the last one I got from Grizzly an 8" was dis-assembled and shipped horizontally. surrounded in foam.


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## yocalif (Nov 11, 2010)

I had to transport the jointer I bought back in early Oct by laying it on it's back. I took off the fence assy and had a 4" thick soft foam pad to lay it on. The worst thing was it was raining on the way home, I was prepared had a plastic tarp to protect it. However as soon as I got it home I either rubbed or sprayed it down with WD40, it was really late so went to bed and next day cleaned it.

I tested the jointer it seems to work fine, but haven't had to do any project yet, I'm still in slow slow mode on a remodel project. I should be using the jointer in a couple of weeks on a small project, just have to make the drive to get the rough cut lumber.

I'm not saying that you should transport your jointer the same way. I know trucker knots so I can tie down stuff and it will not shift or move. However it can be done if you are prepared.


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## EM3 (Sep 12, 2011)

Ah for the love of Pete I never thought about unbolting the thing. DUH! I was hesitant about moving it standing up because I didn't want it against the back window of the truck. 

Thanks folks.

I am off to search to see if I can find an answer to another question and if not I will post it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've moved them several times. My last move was with an 8" and a 12". I don't remove them from the stand. I lay them on the side and place 2x4 blocks to support the bed. Transfer the jointer to the front of the bed of the truck or trailer, and lash (with ratchet straps) in four directions.










 







.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

"Redundancy" is a fundamental in rigging,as it relates to a safe lift or move.So,if one strap is adequate,running more is better."Cribbing" or blocking is so easy/important that with nothing more than a few scraps of 4x4's,what was a questionable setup,now makes it safe.

Heres a must have on any equip move:

>Plenty of ratchet straps

>Lots of cribbing

>Cordless drill motor,handsaw,hammer,some wreckin bars

>Tarp,plastic wrap,duct tape

>Enough muscle,be it.....lifting,pulling devices,and help

>And probably the most important,a "plan"


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## Grinder (Nov 17, 2007)

You must be stronger than me. With my 8" jointer being over 500 lbs., taking the motor and base out of the equation seemed like a no brainer.




cabinetman said:


> I've moved them several times. My last move was with an 8" and a 12". I don't remove them from the stand. I lay them on the side and place 2x4 blocks to support the bed. Transfer the jointer to the front of the bed of the truck or trailer, and lash (with ratchet straps) in four directions.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Grinder said:


> You must be stronger than me. With my 8" jointer being over 500 lbs., taking the motor and base out of the equation seemed like a no brainer.


I don't know if I am, but I'm pretty gosh darn strong. It's not a matter of lifting dead weight. It's moving it smart...leverage, 'walking it', balance and mechanical aids. It also makes sense to have a helper with a cellphone, so 911 can be called when you drop your jewels.:laughing:










 







.


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## EM3 (Sep 12, 2011)

Ok just spoke with my dad and he cant remember the name of it or if the top would come off the stand. Grrrr but he is 76 and his mind isn't what it used to be. *He swears it is 4 ft long the bed of it and it was made by a company to be sold in Bluefield, WV.* I dunno you folks got any ideas? Oh well looks like this might take 2 trips one to figure out what I am dealing with and another to actually bring it home.


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## yocalif (Nov 11, 2010)

BWSmith said:


> "Redundancy" is a fundamental in rigging,as it relates to a safe lift or move.
> Heres a must have on any equip move:
> 
> >Plenty of ratchet straps
> ...


I don't own lots of ratcheting straps, I use rope and know how to tie it. I keep a 50' roll of that rope, a 50' roll of parachute cord, and a cheap HF tarp in my pickup also. The parachute cord really is handy for all those little tie down things where you don't need a lot of excessive strength the larger rope provides. 

Blocks of wood & a drill is a good idea, as is the duct tape, add a knife.

You can rent from Home Depot a set of ramps for $5 a day, they are for rolling their rental equip up into the bed of a pickup. They are not that long, they work best for smaller lower to the ground pickups.

I have added a cheap come-along for situations were two adult men just can't get enough oomph.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*4 ft long beds, prolly a 6"*

In that case don't worry that much. Bring a set of box wrenches and a socket set and be prepared to take the bed off the stand. It will weigh in around 125 pounds or so, the stand another 65-75 or so. Mine weigh 200 lbs total.
I moved mine in a pick up truck with a piece of 1/2 ply in first as a slider. Get the bed and the stand on the ply extended out to the gate then push them in all the way until the gate will go up.
Vans and other vehicles will be slightly different. This ain't that big of a deal... Generally 3 bolts hold the bed on the stand.
They be longer, or extended about 2", so you can thread them in and out easily. Or they may be traditional machine or carriage bolts, no problem. Do not plan on making several 2 hr trips. :no: bill


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