# Looking For a Good Set of Table Saw Plans



## GlenWatkins (Sep 21, 2015)

I'm looking to build my own table saw (which may be a bit of a surprise if you just read my intro). I'd like it to lift and miter. 

I've found a couple of sets of plans for sale and free on the net, and even saw a few youtube videos pop up in the search. Thing is, I've got no idea as to what looks like a great set of plans, and what looks like a decent or even crap one. And since some of them are for $... Well, has anyone got a recommendation for a site or blog or whatever?

* Oh, if you were wondering why I am making rather than buying... tools have a really steep mark-up here (living in Indonesia) and I'd as soon make it as pay double (the US price) for it.


----------



## MEP1 (Aug 14, 2015)

Saw with depth and angle adjustment:

http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/index.html

Simpler version without angle adjustment:

http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/saw2.html


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

As suggested Woodgears has some pretty amazing stuff. You may need one tool to build another one of his so could be a catch 22 situation until you get basically set up.


----------



## MEP1 (Aug 14, 2015)

FrankC said:


> As suggested Woodgears has some pretty amazing stuff. You may need one tool to build another one of his so could be a catch 22 situation until you get basically set up.


The second table saw project is specifically to build a table saw with no other tools except a jigsaw and a drill.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you need a good circ saw first*

You will need a decent, powerful and easily adjustable saw IF your home built table is to work as expected.

If it were me, I'd attach the saw to a larger 1/4" or 3/8" thick aluminum plate which I would then rabbet out for in a plywood or composite top. That way your saw is easily removable for blade changes and other adjustments.

The number of times I've tilted my saw over to make a bevel is very rare. I wouldn't bother with a tilting function and if that is needed, just remove the saw, set the angle and place it back in the table.

The table can be made in 2 layers....? 
By using a 1/2" thick layer on top of a 3/4" surface and spacing the pieces apart the width of a miter bar, you won't need to make any dados for it. This is how I made my outfeed table miter bar slots. They are all separate pieces screwed down with a miter bar spacer in between.

The fence should be a T square design, so you can slide it around and it will "self square to the front of the table. A simple clamp or cam should hold it in place. It can be made of square metal tubing if that's available.


----------



## GlenWatkins (Sep 21, 2015)

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the responses.

I especially like the "two layer" idea for the miter bar.

I think I might have failed to mention what kind of saw I'm planning to use for the table... I'm not looking to fasten a circular saw to a table, I'm planning to try and buy an arbor and motor somewhere, more or less make the whole thing from scratch. Though, I'm not sure that makes so much of a difference to the search for plans (just a bit of modification). 

Woodgears does have a lot of designs. What I had missed there before was the list of his reader's table saw designs. There really is a lot to look at. Thanks again.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*this may help*

Here's an image from woodgears:

http://woodgears.ca/reader/pekka/tablesaw.html










Glad to hear you are not using a circ saw. You might look into A Craftsman direct drive motor or other which has the arbor directly on the end of the motor.

That's not a bad idea anyway, but you have to make sure the rotation is such that the blade will tighten under load rather than come off....... 

Here's what I'd use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-1...50-RPM-240v-/262050620213?hash=item3d036f2335


----------



## GlenWatkins (Sep 21, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> Glad to hear you are not using a circ saw. You might look into A Craftsman direct drive motor or other which has the arbor directly on the end of the motor.
> 
> That's not a bad idea anyway, but you have to make sure the rotation is such that the blade will tighten under load rather than come off.......
> 
> ...


The direct drive motor does seem like a better option. Anything that will simplify and reduce the need for manual settings must be good.

I'm going round the shops tomorrow and have a look. Maybe I'll get lucky and find something like that. (Would look into getting one off of ebay, but import tax is %100, unless you are licensed.) 

That tip about checking nut rotation and drive-shaft rotation is a good one. Messing that up would leave me with a really complicated setup, or a very large paperweight.


----------



## MEP1 (Aug 14, 2015)

Here's another, much better saw made from a portable jobsite saw:

http://www.ibuildit.ca/table-saw-1.html


----------

