# Metal cross dowel jig, needed or not?



## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

I am going to be doing a bed project with these metal cross dowels so the bed can be taken apart when needed. Here is a link in case you aren't sure what the correct name for them is like I wasn't, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=367&rrt=1.

In my searching I came across this jig, http://www.carbideprocessors.com/cross-dowel-jig-woodpeckers-cddj14716/ to make sure things are lined up. Lining these and the wood dowels up are on of my biggest worries about this project. Mostly due to not having worked with dowels of any kind much. Is this jig needed or is it pretty easy to line the holes up? I like to take as much of the guess work out of the project as possible so if the jig is going to be the difference in everything lining up or not lining up I will buy the jig. Just don't know if it's needed or not since I have never used cross dowels before. It looks like a pretty neat jig that would make sure the holes are drilled right on.


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## J Thomas (Aug 14, 2012)

I think before I spent 35 bux on it I'd get the cross dowels & try a few on some scrap.
I've never used them but it doesn't look too difficult to get good alignment.
Just my .02..
Good luck with the project.
..Jon..


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I think the Woodpecker product is well made, but too expensive.

You can either drill a hole in a block of hard wood on a drill press to use as a guide, or if you want something more robust, purchase the replacement bushings for the dowel jig you want to get and insert these into the block of hard wood. Less expensive and deeper drill support.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32250&cat=1,180,42311,42319&ap=1


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

Dave Paine said:


> I think the Woodpecker product is well made, but too expensive.
> 
> You can either drill a hole in a block of hard wood on a drill press to use as a guide, or if you want something more robust, purchase the replacement bushings for the dowel jig you want to get and insert these into the block of hard wood. Less expensive and deeper drill support.
> 
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32250&cat=1,180,42311,42319&ap=1


You bring up a good point, can I just use the dowel jig I intend on buying to drill straight holes in the edge of the board for the bolt? The jig says it takes a 1/4" drill for the bolt edge hole, so I should just be able to use the dowel jig for that right? Then just use a forstner bit to drill the hole for cross dowel nut. I was just worried about getting everything lined up straight but I think I can use the wood dowel jig for that.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

The problem using the dowel jig on the face of the board is that it stands too proud from the surface. You may not have a 1/4in bit which is long enough.

It is a good idea to be trying to achieve holes which are 90 deg to the surface. It will aid in assembly and avoid a lot of fighting, "energy" with a mallet etc.

Edit
You can use for the edge, the jig will clamp. Depending on the length of the bolt you may have to drill part way, then remove the jig and drill to final depth.


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

Dave Paine said:


> The problem using the dowel jig on the face of the board is that it stands too proud from the surface. You may not have a 1/4in bit which is long enough.
> 
> It is a good idea to be trying to achieve holes which are 90 deg to the surface. It will aid in assembly and avoid a lot of fighting, "energy" with a mallet etc.
> 
> ...


The edge is the hole I was talking about, sorry if I am bad at explaining things! The edge hole for the bolt was the one I was worried about getting lined up perfect. The "face" hole for the round nut I should be able to get straight enough. I can drill a piece of hardwood on the drill press and use that as a jig if needed. But the edge hole was the one worring my so if I can use the wooden dowel jig for the edge hole then I can skip this cross dowel jig and save 35 bucks. Thanks again!:thumbsup:


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## Quillman (Dec 30, 2012)

It is perplexing, drilling for an intersect you can't see.
The literature way underplays the difficulty.
In my view, the Rockler product is not the thing for end grain boring.
Nicely priced and otherwise capable but not for deep holes in bed frame rails.
Anyway:
Lots of silly variables to attend too. The drills might be undersized, bolts are bent, the x-dowels are 
different sizes even for the same internal thread.
Have also found plenty of x-dowels that are not drilled on center.
Example of my approach.
The jig was easy to make but not knowing the variables beforehand, complicated things.
The jig is for 1/4" bolts. The rod is parallel & centered to the punch templet punch holes on the long 
arm. So the rod goes in the end or face grain hole and the punch will mark the drilling coordinates.
In general, one drills the workpiece that receives the head of the screw on the drill press.
Then the parts are roughly assembled and the same drill goes through that hole into the member
that receives the x-dowel. This second hole can be hand drilled or if the assembly permits, it can be 
drilled on the drill press too. Then I drill on the punch crater; it's very close to hitting the centerline of 
the screw hole. I made the thing so I can slide it on its steel dowel so the x-dowel hole is 
commensurate with the screw length. And 2" of screw is ~ the right amount (min.) of penetration 
for the screw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Dowel jig Cheap*

I have one of these, nicely made, self centering and clamps to the edge. $13.00 :blink:
http://www.harborfreight.com/self-centering-doweling-jig-41345.html


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

I use cross dowels on patio furniture I make and it isn't too difficult the get them drilled and lined up.


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