# My Kiln



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

I just realized after several months My kiln thread didn't log on. Don't remember the wording but this is my kiln.

It's a 12'x20' metal insulated building ....floor,sides, and top...made from insulated door slabs screwed together....NOT the prettiest BUT sealed good. I bought this to use as a mouse proof storage for collectables I've gathered over the years and decided to test as a kiln use.......WE hand loaded 4000 BF of slabs into this and used DAREN's kiln plans.....worked great except TOO BIG for heat lamping and went with hydronic coil to kill bugs. Loaded up to a few 16" slabs....whew TOO much wieght by hand loading. This set up worked great except loading and unloading....HAVE BIGGER BETTER PLAN now.

Have ideas on permenant setup but others are always welcome.

Have a Blessed day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


----------



## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

In another thread you said you had 4000bf to run through your kiln. I was wondering how big of kiln you had. Now I know. Nice.


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

*from kiln to racks*

Trying to finish the move from kiln to storage racks. This is a pic of the dried lumber. Sassafras on left.. oak and ash on right. Note staining on chestnut oak......I started in the beginning AD outdoors with top cover.....TOO much edge and lumber staining ( also wind kept blowing top cover off)......NOW I AD pre kilning under covered shelter.....cleaner wood....more expense :laughing::yes:.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Loaded the kiln 2wks ago with AD ERcedar. wasn't alot of MC to drop....actually may have pulled further than needed.....21% RH....have heated to 130's for 12 hrs to bug kill:thumbsup::thumbsup:.
I looked at one bug like so :icon_smile::no: and he stared back:blink: but he saw the:furious: and just :laughing: until I closed the doors and turned on the heat:thumbsup::shifty::smile:and when I walked away all I could hear was:wallbash::sweatdrop::wacko: at the door.

Have a Blessed and Prsperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Good story!*

LOL :laughing: bugs :hammer: no bugs.


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

I don't have a formal kiln. I use a blue tarp and a small space heater in my garage. With 2 small space heaters, I can get her to 130-135 in most cases for bug massacre, and frying, and then I bring it down to 90-95 after that and continue.
It's not much but it does handle a few boards (5 - 10) and things at a time. 2 weeks seems to work for some planks, and I had some thick (2" to 8" thick x 42" across) hollow logs that took upwards to 3 months last winter, to get down to 5-9% ( a few below zero days didn't help matters)

With what you are doing, I see the need for a pro setup, instead of a piker setup like I run.


----------



## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

aardvark said:


> I don't have a formal kiln. I use a blue tarp and a small space heater in my garage. With 2 small space heaters, I can get her to 130-135 in most cases for bug massacre, and frying, and then I bring it down to 90-95 after that and continue.
> It's not much but it does handle a few boards (5 - 10) and things at a time. 2 weeks seems to work for some planks, and I had some thick (2" to 8" thick x 42" across) hollow logs that took upwards to 3 months last winter, to get down to 5-9% ( a few below zero days didn't help matters)
> 
> With what you are doing, I see the need for a pro setup, instead of a piker setup like I run.


You'll get less stress and cracking if you dry it down first, and then do the high heat last.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

I'm usually hitting the high temps somewhere in the middle of drying. I've had good luck, except with the hollow logs. 
They were expected to crack, and out of 10, I lost 2 of them, but am still using them for smaller projects.


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Aard,
I have the same thoughts as Jigs and Fix but didn't comment due to: it seemed to work for you and I run a Daren style kiln and others don't agree with it either....BUT IT WORKS!!!!:laughing::laughing::thumbsup: . 

But this is what I've researched new and old.....For the best stability of the wood the lumber needs the moisture brought down in the beginning slowly (the most stable wood is AD not forced) then throw the killing heat to the bugs:clap::thumbup::laughing:. Yes I use a kiln, but I 90% of the time AD for min.3-6 months.

I'm not suggesting changing or telling you you're wrong....that's just the way I interpertated the info.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Oh I agree, but I'm running up against time an space restraints.
I have little choice in the matter so there is a need to push it and take my chances.

God Bless(es)


----------



## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Drying too fast can cause the surface to dry far faster than the core. This can result in the wood having unpredictable movement when it is cut. 

This can cause turnings to unexpectedly crack, and boards to pinch saw blades.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


----------



## qbilder (Dec 19, 2010)

Nice kiln :thumbsup: I built a small kiln from Darren's plans using interior doors, but do not use it because here in NM, the heat is already intense and humidity usually in single digits. The wood air dries too fast. In order to make my kiln work, i'd have to use a humidifier instead of a dehumidifier  Actually air drying out here works very well if the wood is off the ground, stickered, and kept in shade.


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Looking into some shade-dri. These sunny 100 deg days are playing havoc on my logs......maybe too late....but then it wouldn't be rustic:blink::laughing:. I like Daren's plans...they're MULTI-SIZABLE:blink::blink: (that was a wurd ???? :laughing::laughing and I've gone to the max.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


----------



## gvwp (Jun 17, 2012)

I built a kiln and use my wood burner for heat. I run a 216,000 BTU heat exchanger and 3 large main fans and 8 small box fans on the inside for air movement. I can dry around 7000bf on a full kiln. I can dry green 4/4 Oak in about 30 days. Pine in 10-12 days. Same for Cedar. Took awhile to learn how to do it but its been drying steady for the last four years. I start out at outside air temperature and climb to 128 degrees over a three week span watching the inside humidity all the time. At 40% internal humidity I close all vents and lock it down. I am normally between 107 and 110 degrees at this point. I then raise to 128 degrees and hold for one full week. At the end of the 30 day cycle I have quality dried lumber. It does a wonderful job and its cheap to dry the wood because I use scrap from the sawmill for fuel. Takes about $60-$75 worth of electricity a month with all the fans and pumps for the hot water.


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

I'm looking going that direction as an whole.....heating kiln, a shop and large work area. Hydronics are so neat and clean. 
Thanks for the info.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


----------

