# Imperial Drawings



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

Since I have produced all my topics and plans in the metric system I made an effort to produce a sample of tenon making with my Super jig using imperial method.
I need some advice as to how the details are presented (a) in decimal parts of the inch or (b) fractions on an inch as per the drawing.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I like both your drawings. But, I'm used to doing drawings in an architectural standard with fractions of an inch. My only reservations for decimal are that they are only two places to the right. In shop work it is just easier for me to use the fractions, as my measuring devices are graduated that way.

As long as all dimensions on drawings are done the same way, the interpretation leaves less to error. For example, if feet and inches are used, then just inches are represented as zero feet-inches. If a drawing is done in all inches, then it's represented that way. 










 







.


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> I like both your drawings. But, I'm used to doing drawings in an architectural standard with fractions of an inch. My only reservations for decimal are that they are only two places to the right. In shop work it is just easier for me to use the fractions, as my measuring devices are graduated that way.
> 
> As long as all dimensions on drawings are done the same way, the interpretation leaves less to error. For example, if feet and inches are used, then just inches are represented as zero feet-inches. If a drawing is done in all inches, then it's represented that way.
> 
> ...


Thank you for your response
Like you I was brought up using the fractions of an inch but some 45 years ago I was compelled to work in the metric System when I arrived in Australia and I was teaching technical drawing in High Schools and Australia had just made the change from Imperial to Metric. I had seen both methods of showing imperial dimensions and I am not sure what the preferred method is used by others.

Boxes of guides come in a variety of sizes (How the sizes were selected I have no idea) I am not sure if all the guides are used on a regular basis or if there is only one favoured for one specific use.

Hopefully there will be others who will comment on what guides they have and how they are use.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*please separate your dimensions off the parts*

To make reading them easier move them off the pieces, so the arrows actually indicate the desired dimension. It's common drafting practice to avoid confusion and you could look at another drawing for examples. :thumbsup: bill


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Tomodon said:


> Thank you for your response
> Like you I was brought up using the fractions of an inch but some 45 years ago I was compelled to work in the metric System when I arrived in Australia and I was teaching technical drawing in High Schools and Australia had just made the change from Imperial to Metric. I had seen both methods of showing imperial dimensions and I am not sure what the preferred method is used by others.
> 
> Boxes of guides come in a variety of sizes (How the sizes were selected I have no idea) I am not sure if all the guides are used on a regular basis or if there is only one favoured for one specific use.
> ...


Hi Tom - I agree with cabinetman as far as the notation goes. Guide bush usage, at least for me, is a pretty regular event. I use all the sizes from 7/16 through 1" (except the mysterious 51/64" which I have yet to figure out). 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" most regularly. I also have 7/8", 1-1/8", 1-1/4", 1-3/8" and 1-1/2" available but used infrequently.:smile:


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi Tom - I agree with cabinetman as far as the notation goes. Guide bush usage, at least for me, is a pretty regular event. I use all the sizes from 7/16 through 1" (except the mysterious 51/64" which I have yet to figure out). 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" most regularly. I also have 7/8", 1-1/8", 1-1/4", 1-3/8" and 1-1/2" available but used infrequently.:smile:


Thanks for that John
This is the sort of information I am seeking, and this is where I can come in and help people get more from their router.
The last five quoted you do not use frequently and I wonder if that is the same with a number of other users.
I have not seen any articles in print where the larger Imperial guides are used. The most popular guide in my collection is the 40mm which is near enough the 1-1/2" and if I were using Imperial I would be using that Guide for the following reasons.
(1) a greater number of cutters can be used 
(2) cutter is visible when in use (in most cases)
(3) the waste material being cut will disperse more easily and therefore prevent the cutter from overheating
(4) the router chuck will penetrate through the larger guide to get a greater depth of cut (this is especially when using small cutters such as the 1/4" etc
(5) designing templates for use where a number of guides can be chosen to produce a new process without the need to produce a new template


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

HI Tom - I believe I'm likely a minority user of the larger guides in this part of the world. There is only one source in North America that I know of for them. Most kits marketed in the US have a maximum size of 1" and non that I know of have a 7/8"


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

jschaben said:


> HI Tom - I believe I'm likely a minority user of the larger guides in this part of the world. There is only one source in North America that I know of for them. Most kits marketed in the US have a maximum size of 1" and non that I know of have a 7/8"


 Thanks John for the information.
Just as a matter of information how do you work out what guide to use and when to use it. My method using the grid paper and I suggest you download the grid from the internet 1/8" which is quite handy for this purpose. With the larger guide you have in your collection wil open up a new collection of projects that can be done with greater safety awareness.
P.S. if you are unable to find the grid I mentioned I will email you a copy ( I think) I am putting together a couple of simple processes in the Imperial format; as an example inserting a circular inlay. 
Tom


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> To make reading them easier move them off the pieces, so the arrows actually indicate the desired dimension. It's common drafting practice to avoid confusion and you could look at another drawing for examples. :thumbsup: bill


 Bill
Thank you for your suggestion I will look into that; though my computer skills are not as good as my routing skills
Tom


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

It seems that anyone who wishes to purchase template guides are restricted to the imperial sets that are produced. Recently I had been approached to see if I would be prepared to write and convert my articles, which are based mainly on the use of the guides, from metric to imperial. I asked myself would it be worth while for a 78years old to make the changes? I did try a number of processes and I must confess it was not the least bit easy, even though I used the imperial measurements for over 20 years before making the change to metric. It is evident that the larger template guides are seldom used and therefore they remain in the box. Also the guides are mainly used with the straight cutters from the number of articles published in a number of magazines or books. Very little is shown where a 'face/edge' cutter is used.

Here is a simple project for consideration: _*Inserting an inlay 50mm/2" diameter *_into a solid piece of material

enclosed pic shows an elliptical insert


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

*Use of template guides*

Just as a matter of interest has anyone given any considered as to how many combinations of Guides and cutters can be used to rout and insert an elliptical inlay shown in the previous post.?


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

*Use of template guides*

Maybe when producing the project above the method used is simply to purchase the ready made combination of Guide / bearing / cutter detailed below for all the insert problems or has anyone used alternative methods.


----------



## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

The "standard" guides are actually the sizes they are because Guild/Porter-Cable used to make a lot of different jigs for use with their routers, which for several decades were the standard to which all others were compared.

They had specific guides for different bits in different jigs. They no longer make most of the jigs, but the guides have always sold well and continue to be produced. Not only by Porter-Cable but by several other companies as well. 

I use the largest guide Porter-Cable makes to cut the center out of router table inert holes using a 1/4-inch spiral bit.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

*Getting more from my router*

It is now 11 weeks since I have made any contribution to the forum and I must say in that time I have learnt more on the use of the guides both metric and imperial.
I would like to emphasise that with the larger guides you are able to produce a greater number of processes.

No doubt you will have seen the number of processes I can produce with the 'Super Jig' I introduced September 2011 at our local woodshow here in Perth. I have since added some more features to improve how it can be used more effectively.

I was inspired by a presentation on what could be achieved with one of the latest jigs to hit the market 'The Pantorouter' No doubt this is a great jig and can do wonderful things with it. My problem is it is not a jig that can be produced by the average woodworker as he/she does not have access to mechanical tools and machinery to produce the various parts, also the template is positioned so far away from the joint in process, therefore hard to line up Material and cutter to complete the process.

This prompted me to investigate producing a simple 'Super Jig' (with very little cost and using material readily available in the workshop) a jig that was capable of producing three different woodworking joints on standard material beginning with 3/4" (19mm) material. Producing numerous size tenons, Bridle joints, and 1/2 lap joints with only one set up in the jig. All that was changed were the Guides and cutters used.

I will be spending the next few weeks setting the details out as at the moment the information has been produced on grid paper.

There may be some other interested in getting to know how the larger guides are a must in our collection.

Tom


----------



## Tomodon (Jan 15, 2010)

*Template Guides*

Carb-I-Tool Australia have launched their set of template Guides (Imperial) included is a CD giving instructions on how they can be used more effectively


----------

