# Wood Putty- Did I screw up?



## Sleeper

I bought some MINWAX Wood putty and filled a crack. Now I decided to read the directions to find out how long it takes to dry and it says “Will not harden to a sandable surface”. :huh:
What the heck does that mean and if it can’t be sanded than what is this used for?


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## cabinetman

Sleeper said:


> I bought some MINWAX Wood putty and filled a crack. Now I decided to read the directions to find out how long it takes to dry and it says “Will not harden to a sandable surface”. :huh:
> What the heck does that mean and if it can’t be sanded than what is this used for?


That's a finishing filler. It's used after all the finishing is done. It's like a waxy putty that you rub into nail holes and small cracks. It's available in many colors to match stains or natural finish. It can be mixed with other colors for matching. It comes in pen like shapes, sticks, and in small bottles.


















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## Sleeper

cabinetman said:


> That's a finishing filler. It's used after all the finishing is done. It's like a waxy putty that you rub into nail holes and small cracks. It's available in many colors to match stains or natural finish. It can be mixed with other colors for matching. It comes in pen like shapes, sticks, and in small bottles.
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So I guess now I have to figure out how to remove it. :wallbash:


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## Steve Neul

That's a good question. Mineral spirits will dissolve it but imbed it into the wood fibers. It's very possible real wood putty won't adhere to it once you get it cleaned out. Then what is on the surface may interfere with the finish. If the project is important I would replace the board.


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## cabinetman

Sleeper said:


> So I guess now I have to figure out how to remove it. :wallbash:


Depending on your finish, you may not have to remove it. It won't sand, but you can rub it flat. Some of those eventually dry. I've been back to a jobsite many months later to do more work and found the fill to be hardened. Sanding sealers and topcoats can be applied over it if the areas are small. I've never had a problem with a finish not adhering or becoming loose because of a small filled area.


















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## Sleeper

Went on line to MINWAX for a solution and they just say clean with soap & water so I scrubbed it with hot soapy water and a stiff bristle brush, but it was dry bare wood. There is absolutely no sealer or finish whatsoever on the wood and it soaked up a huge amount of water. 

I guess I’ll have to leave it out in the sun to dry for a couple of weeks and then sand the hell out of it. I just hope all my Titebond doesn’t come apart in the meantime. 

This crap is going right in the garbage because I don’t want it anywhere near my shop.:thumbdown:


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## Steve Neul

They must have reformulated the Minwax wood putty since I bought any. What I have is a solvent based product. It sounds like what you have is water based. Sunlight and wood are not a good idea especially this time of year. It can cause the wood to warp. I think it will be dry enough by tomorrow morning to work with. Your glue joints should be alright. I frequently strip furniture and rinse it with water and it doesn't hurt it. Overnight drying and it's good to go.


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## Sleeper

This is what I bought for a finish:









Do you think I can clean some more with Mineral spirits after it dries. I would like to fill some bad spots with filler, but I can probably let it go as long as I can at least put on a good finish.


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## Sleeper

Well it’s drying but I don’t know, it may be permanently damaged.


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## Steve Neul

Well the tech support people said to wash it with soap and water so it has some kind of latex binder so mineral spirits wouldn't help. If you have some lacquer thinner that would help.


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## Sleeper

Steve Neul said:


> Well the tech support people said to wash it with soap and water so it has some kind of latex binder so mineral spirits wouldn't help. If you have some lacquer thinner that would help.


Thanks Steve, I do have lacquer thinner plus paint thinner and Acetone. :smile:


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## Tennessee Tim

It is a oil base product.....look at a can after it's been opened and aged..the oil seperates out. Tech is wrong or misunderstood what's happened. You can use soap and water MAYBE if prior sealed wood BUT NOT now. As Cabinetman mentioned it's an after finish filler. Stain will not cover this very well since it's in the wood fibers now according to pics. They do make a prefinish wood filler in light and dark that dries quickly and sands easily. You've done crossed the fence so to say. 
Cabinet man or Steve...would denatured alcohol help dry this out enough to maybe save the project from a rebuild????
Sorry to see you go through this BUT I done the exact same thing in my beginning 25-30 yrs ago.


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## cabinetman

Tennessee Tim said:


> Cabinet man or Steve...would denatured alcohol help dry this out enough to maybe save the project from a rebuild????
> Sorry to see you go through this BUT I done the exact same thing in my beginning 25-30 yrs ago.


I would like to see exactly what he has and what was done.








 







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## Sleeper

Tennessee Tim said:


> It is a oil base product.....look at a can after it's been opened and aged..the oil seperates out. Tech is wrong or misunderstood what's happened. You can use soap and water MAYBE if prior sealed wood BUT NOT now. As Cabinetman mentioned it's an after finish filler. Stain will not cover this very well since it's in the wood fibers now according to pics. They do make a prefinish wood filler in light and dark that dries quickly and sands easily. You've done crossed the fence so to say.
> Cabinet man or Steve...would denatured alcohol help dry this out enough to maybe save the project from a rebuild????
> Sorry to see you go through this BUT I done the exact same thing in my beginning 25-30 yrs ago.


 So I read your post and decided to try the alcohol. A lot actually came up on a paper towel even after I cleaned it yesterday with the soap & hot water. It just might work to cut the grease but it has left a stain. I will have to sand it some more to see how deep it is otherwise I’m going to have to take this red oak stain/finish back and get some dark stain to cover it.


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## Steve Neul

Tennessee Tim said:


> It is a oil base product.....look at a can after it's been opened and aged..the oil seperates out. Tech is wrong or misunderstood what's happened. You can use soap and water MAYBE if prior sealed wood BUT NOT now. As Cabinetman mentioned it's an after finish filler. Stain will not cover this very well since it's in the wood fibers now according to pics. They do make a prefinish wood filler in light and dark that dries quickly and sands easily. You've done crossed the fence so to say.
> Cabinet man or Steve...would denatured alcohol help dry this out enough to maybe save the project from a rebuild????
> Sorry to see you go through this BUT I done the exact same thing in my beginning 25-30 yrs ago.


It just appears the new soft putty is a completely different product than most of has used over the years. I keep mine rejuvenated by putting mineral spirits in it from time to time so I haven't bought any in years. I think the new stuff would be ruined if that was done. You know how the chemical companies are changing everything to water base. I think the new soft putty is just that. 

Alcohol will help dry water out of the wood but in his case I think an overnight dry time was enough.


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