# Router table for table saw



## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Hi, I am fairly new to woodworking and recently bought a (used) Ridgid TS3650. I would like to install a router table on the open side, but cant seem to find any good plans for one. I am new at this, so I'd need something pretty straight forward. All the stuff I have seen is just finished products, but no instructions.
I have attached a picture of my table.
Also, I'd like to be able to have the option of putting a fence on the back of it so that I could stand in front of it instead of the side when needing to use it.
I cant afford to spend a whole lot, but also want it to be durable and smooth with the table top so that I dont have to remove it if I need to do a large cut on the table saw. 
Any and all idea welcome. Thanks in advance!
David


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Hi David - A router table in a TS is a worthwhile project....not all that hard or time consuming, and you can tailor it to suit you. 

I don't have any plans, but you can Google images for ideas... a pic is worth a thousand words!

Here are a few: 
Big Daddy's workshop
Ridgid forum
Lumberjocks


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## livenlrge (Aug 30, 2012)

*Awesome!!*

I have been wanting the same. Great start!!:thumbsup:


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## bigben (Jul 21, 2012)

I've got a similar project on the to do list, I'll be watching this thread...


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## preacherman (Nov 29, 2011)

I just finished building a cart to combine my Ridgid 3650 and router table. I loosely built mine according to this plan: http://www.woodstore.net/mosaroce.html 
It looks huge but mine only takes up about six more inches than the saw by itself. You can adapt these plans to fit your need and you can build it so it does not take up any more room. 
As far as wanting the fence so you can stand in front of the machine you could just place your t slots in that position, so the fence could be placed in that direction. I considered doing that however, I am just going use my table saw fence with a sacrifical fence attached at least for now.
As far as not having to remove it you should not have to remove anything except your fence because your router table top will be level with the current table saw top. You can build it out of particle board or MDF. Both are flat and smooth then cover with plastic laminate. Mine is just particle board finished with polyacrylic. It is nice and slick since I waxed it and should last a while as long as I care for it.
Here is a couple of pics of my new setup


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Preacherman, Wow that is really cool. thanks for sharing! It looks like too much work for me to take on right now, but I will keep that idea for the future (when I am skilled enough to complete such a task)! It is REALLY sweet.

I have some ideas of what I want to do. 
Yesterday I bought some supplies and ordered some track from mcfeelys. I picked up a piece of melamine and am going to try to use that for the router table. Attached is my photo of inspiration (also done with melamine). I hope to do the same thing here except incorporate track to allow me to put a track on in the other direction, so I can stand in front of it.

I think my hardest thing is going to be making a cut out for the router face plate to drop into. Any ideas on how to make the right cut? I am guessing a rabbit bit?
I might try to just mount it straight to the melamine board, but the board is 3/4" thick, so I wouldnt get much up and down play after that, so i doubt that will work.
Also, I have a old craftsman router....should I upgrade to something better? suggestions? (its hard for me to spend $150 on a new router though)

Sorry for the rambling...I wont be building this for a few more weeks or so since I have other projects higher up on the slate (such as my crosscut sled that I am going to attempt start this weekend). But I am still open to other ideas if anyone has any more suggestions.

thanks


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Please help.... How do I make the cut in the table for the mounting plate? I have no idea how to do this. 
Thanks!


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

davester84 said:


> Please help.... How do I make the cut in the table for the mounting plate? I have no idea how to do this.
> Thanks!


Most use a router, at least enough to make the initial outline and rabbet. Cut the hole itself with a circ or jig saw. Or just continue with the router. 
Have you got a template for the plate? :huh:


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks for the response ... No, I don't have a template. I am new to routing... Guess I am going to need to buy some more bits.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

davester84 said:


> Thanks for the response ... No, I don't have a template. I am new to routing... Guess I am going to need to buy some more bits.


Hi Dave. If I don't have a template, I will place the plate on the table top, very carefully, in the desired position. Then I use double faced tape to stick strips of 3/4" MDF tight around the plate. Remove the plate without disturbing the guide strips. Stick a few more pieces of 3/4 MDF around the center. Make sure your router plate is supported every where inside that confine of guide strips, leaving a path around the inside edge for the router bit. Now you can use a short cutting length pattern bit to route the relief for the plate. You just need to make that groove the depth of the plate thickness. That should leave you a groove the depth of the plate thickness, as wide as the bit you used (I like half inch) and the exact size of the plate. Now you can cut the center of that out with a jig saw or something, just need to stay close to the inside edge of the groove so as not to intrude to much on what is about to become the supporting rabbet for your router plate. The only issue is getting the radius of the corners the same as are on the plate. I would recommend using a bit with the same radius and then the router bit will take care of that for you. 
A pattern bit will have a bearing on the shank, above the cutting part. This bearing rides against your guide strips help guide the router. Since the bearing is on the top, you need a bit with a cutting length shorter than your guide strips are thick. If you used 3/4" MDF a bit with a 1/2" cutting length works fine. Item #6509 on this link would work.:smile:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...html/pages/bt_flush.html#pattern_flush_anchor


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks for a very informative response. I might give this a try, but I have been looking online and found a place that has a template if I buy their mount. Would this be a easier approach? What kind of bit would I need to use with their mount? (They don't have any instructions on their site) 

Sorry that I sound like an idiot, but the only routing experience I have is with using Roman oggee's... Hopefully I will be become more experienced once I get this done 

Thanks so much!


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## HandyNative (Aug 23, 2012)

Their template will no doubt just be a paper layout but if not it will require the same bearing guided template bit previously mentioned. 

Just remember to feed your router left to right don't want climb cut with a handheld and have it whip away from you. It will be right to left feed on the router table as a side note. The only thing I had to learn the hard way with routers was don't try to get there in one go if your routing greater then 1/4". Lots of burned wood and bits later ... Lol


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

davester84 said:


> Please help.... How do I make the cut in the table for the mounting plate? I have no idea how to do this.
> Thanks!


Dave,

If you send me a private message with your e.mail address I can help you out with this


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Jharris, i sent you my email but haven't heard from you yet. Did you get it?


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

No. I've been looking for it using my phone app.

I'll go on line.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Got it Dave. 

I'm sorry for the delay.

Help is on the way asap.

Jeff


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Dave, check your e.mail.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

davester84 said:


> Thanks for a very informative response. I might give this a try, but I have been looking online and found a place that has a template if I buy their mount. Would this be a easier approach? What kind of bit would I need to use with their mount? (They don't have any instructions on their site)
> 
> Sorry that I sound like an idiot, but the only routing experience I have is with using Roman oggee's... Hopefully I will be become more experienced once I get this done
> 
> Thanks so much!


Hi Dave - Depends on how they define "template". Could be anything from a paper drawing to a MDF pysical template. It could also be slightly over size intended for use with a guide bushing instead of a pattern bit. 
An alternative method would be to cut the hole first and then put the supporting rabbet on after with a rabbetting bit. This method has it's own issues; the hole needs to be very precisely undersized of the plate and the edges of the hole need to be very smooth as the rabbeting bit will follow all the nuances of the edges. The radius of the rabbeting bit also needs to match the radius of the plate corners.
Reading instructions for this tasks may make it seem somewhat daunting but it really isn't difficult, no matter which method you choose. If you think about it, it really isn't any different than making a cutout for a kitchen sink, just requires a bit more precision. I suggested the MDF guide strips and pattern bit because, IMO anyway, it is about the simplest way to get an accurate layout with a minimum of experience and equipment. :smile:


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

I put a cast iron extension frock rockler on my saw several years ago. It works well and uses their standards inserts etc.
-
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21598&site=ROCKLER
-
It cost a few bucks but a lot more time foe other projects and a solid shop addition
Worth considering if your pockets are not too shallow.
Bob


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## Glassnwood (Jan 29, 2012)

*This one worked for me.*



davester84 said:


> Hi, I am fairly new to woodworking and recently bought a (used) Ridgid TS3650. I would like to install a router table on the open side, but cant seem to find any good plans for one. I am new at this, so I'd need something pretty straight forward. All the stuff I have seen is just finished products, but no instructions.
> I have attached a picture of my table.
> Also, I'd like to be able to have the option of putting a fence on the back of it so that I could stand in front of it instead of the side when needing to use it.
> I cant afford to spend a whole lot, but also want it to be durable and smooth with the table top so that I dont have to remove it if I need to do a large cut on the table saw.
> ...


http://plansnow.com/dn3061.html:yes:


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

I am almost done with my table. It took me 3 tries to get it right (first was a test run), but I am really happy with it now. Pictures to come soon! 

Thank you all for the help!


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

cant wait to see it!


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Ok, here is my mostly finished router attachment for my table saw. It took me much longer than it should have, but it was a trial/error/learning experience for me. Its not perfect, but I am happy with it. I still have plans to incorporate a support brace coming from the table saw stand to the bottom of the table somehow. However the router slides out of the mount easily, so I plan to keep it stored elsewhere when not using it so the weight doesn't warp the table. 

I am able to route from the front of the table for small jobs and for big jobs I can route from the side. I have removable router fence attached in the tslots of my table saw fence. I will probably leave it attached as it works well for storage for router bits and accessories. 

My ridgid router has a t-handle that allows me to adjust the height from the top of the table. It also has a dust port on it which allows me to collect dust from the top and bottom of table, eliminating the majority of saw dust. I love it!

Thanks to everyone for the help!!!


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## jyearsich (Feb 26, 2012)

I too have the 3650 table saw. I have one of the Craftsman aluminum router tables. The two pieces were taking up too much space in my small shop. I decided to try and fit it between the rails on the right side of the saw. It fit perfectly. No drilling, no modifying needed. Bolted right in place.


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## avewads (Jan 20, 2012)

Davester84 - Very nice. I'm glad I came across your thread as I am planning on making the exact same thing for my Craftsman table saw, which is very similar to yours. One question though, how did you attach the table to the saw itself?

Thanks


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## jyearsich (Feb 26, 2012)

That table, if you click on my photos has holes on the short edges. They line up perfectly with slots in the rails.


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

I used aluminum angle iron and mount with 1/4 " bolts that fit perfectly in the tslots of the rails... Your table might not have tslots.


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## avewads (Jan 20, 2012)

Ah, I see. I will look to see if I have them. One last question. Was you melamine 3/4 inch? Thanks - Bob


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Yes, it was 3/4" melamine.


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## adroga (Nov 7, 2012)

I have the same table saw..

How much did the project cost approximately? Planning on doing the very same thing soon..

Thanks


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

$10 for melamine (if you don't mess up) 
$10ish?? For angle iron and hardware
$30 for aluminum router plate from rockler
$40ish for 2 4ft t-tracks for table and both fences from rockler
$15 for feather board kit from rockler
$10 for miter track from rockler. 
$30 for 2 sliding door security arms that I have yet to install... My intention is to use these to give the table extra support. Probably isn't needed though if you remove the router from the mount when not in use (that's what I am doing). 

*obviously if you don't want all the accessories and extra t-Track it would be cheaper.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

davester84 said:


> Yes, it was 3/4" melamine.


I am planning a similar table. Did you use just one layer of 3/4" melamine? If so, what did you do for support? Any chance you could post a couple pics of the bottom side? Much obliged.


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Phaedrus said:


> I am planning a similar table. Did you use just one layer of 3/4" melamine? If so, what did you do for support? Any chance you could post a couple pics of the bottom side? Much obliged.


I actually am not using anything to support it right now. I did/do have plans to incorporate some supports underneath similiar to the photo below. Right now I just remove my router when I am done so that it doesnt cause it to sag.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

davester84 said:


> I actually am not using anything to support it right now. I did/do have plans to incorporate some supports underneath similiar to the photo below. Right now I just remove my router when I am done so that it doesnt cause it to sag.


I like that brace setup. It seems like a simple enough solution. With only one layer of 3/4 melamine, it probably weighs less than the original wing anyway. I had seen some online with very elaborate steel bracing and just wasn't sure that was necessary either.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Woodworking Talk


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## avewads (Jan 20, 2012)

Phaedrus said:


> I am planning a similar table. Did you use just one layer of 3/4" melamine? If so, what did you do for support? Any chance you could post a couple pics of the bottom side? Much obliged.


davester - I know you posted a pic of what you are going to do but will you be so kind to post a couple of pics of the underside of what you currently have?

Also, will the weight of the router being perm mounted on the table cause the melamine to warp over time?

Thanks - Bob


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