# Spray on Finish



## meri (Mar 8, 2011)

I am making a closet and I have stained it dark walnut. My problem is the finishing. I used the polyurethane, shellac and varnish with the bristle and foam brush in the past and the problem with all of them is that they leave the brush mark. This time I want to spray the finish. I have a Wagner Paint Crew airless painter, can I use this to spray the finish. 

Please someone help and advise what kind of finish I should use with what kind of sprayer.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

you can, but its not gonna go well.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Try to check out the airless sprayers/painters, sometimes under $400.00. The Wagner has Massive Suckage Issues.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

If your shop or area is relatively free from dust, try brushing your varnish but add a product called Penetrol (if oil based) or Floetrol (if water based). These products will extend the set up time a little and allow the finish to settle a little more before drying. I used this stuff extensively in oil based paints when I worked as a house painter in the 80's.


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## meri (Mar 8, 2011)

I was thinking of spraying lacquer but it appear from your comments that spraying finish is not a good option. My main goal is to avoid any brush mark which from my previous experience are always there with the brush and foam. If I use the airless sprayer as H.A.S. suggested, do I need to buy any particular tip or the paint tip it comes with should be fine. Another advise given to me was to use HVLP gun but this will use the air, right?


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

+1 on the penetrol


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

meri said:


> I was thinking of spraying lacquer but it appear from your comments that spraying finish is not a good option. My main goal is to avoid any brush mark which from my previous experience are always there with the brush and foam. If I use the airless sprayer as H.A.S. suggested, do I need to buy any particular tip or the paint tip it comes with should be fine. Another advise given to me was to use HVLP gun but this will use the air, right?


no you want a cabinet /finish tip 410 at the most. i thinbk you would be better off picking up a 20 gal compressor and a gravity feed cup gun from depot. your still under 400, and will make a hole lot less mess.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

This closet that you are making, is it being made in place (inside the home) or is it being made in a shop to be installed later?

If it is inside a home spraying is usually not recommended. Too many ventilation issues. Plus the problem of keeping the spray off places where you do not want it.

If being made in a shop spraying is great and highly recommended. Just not with a Wagner. 

George


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

You can get poly, or most any finish, in a rattle can, works fine for small jobs.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> This closet that you are making, is it being made in place (inside the home) or is it being made in a shop to be installed later?
> 
> If it is inside a home spraying is usually not recommended. Too many ventilation issues. Plus the problem of keeping the spray off places where you do not want it.
> 
> ...


thats what zip poles and plastic is for. i spray inside homes all the time.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> This closet that you are making, is it being made in place (inside the home) or is it being made in a shop to be installed later?


That's exactly what I was wondering.



GeorgeC said:


> If it is inside a home spraying is usually not recommended. Too many ventilation issues. Plus the problem of keeping the spray off places where you do not want it.


Man...that's the truth. I would avoid spraying inside a home. There are better ways to apply finish with those conditions.



GeorgeC said:


> If being made in a shop spraying is great and highly recommended. Just not with a Wagner.
> George


+1. Spraying under controlled conditions will give better results. I agree an airless puts out too much finish, and for some materials lacks the proper atomization. They are good for spraying houses, decks and fences. 












 







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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

+1 on not spraying in the house if you can avoid it.... I was using ceramic paint on a sportbike exhaust a few years ago and thought I could beat the heat and humidity by doing it inside. I took over the guest bath since it's somewhat ventilated, covered everything with plastic and taped the edges. Hung the exhaust from a ladder and went to town.

To my dismay, when I was done and went to remove the plastic, the fine overspray particles still coated everything! I spent the whole weekend scrubbing everything down, and had to get the grout cleaned. (not to mention listen to the mrs all weekend long...)

In retrospect, it was a bonehead idea, but live and learn, and share with others...


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## meri (Mar 8, 2011)

I do not plan to spray inside the home. I am making this cabinet in 8 different part of 4' width each. Each piece I am planning to spray outside in the backyard and bring them in once they are completely dry and join inside the closet. I know it is not advised by you guys to stain and finish first and then join but guess I am stuck with this option. I will certainly be taping all the parts thoroughly where the glue is to be applied.

One more question. What is the difference between HVLP gun and gravity feed cup gun and which one to use. Also I am planning to use lacquer as finish. Any suggestion on this one.

I am very thankful to all you people for these advises which are helping me a lot to decide.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

HVLP and gravity feed are two different options. 

Gravity feed refers to the jar being on top of the sprayer as opposed to underneath.

HVLP means high volume low pressure. Low pressure means you require less air to move the material. 

Harbor Freight has a sprayer unit that does not require a separate compressor that has great reviews. I would check that out too before you make a purchase. I plan to pick one up soon.


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## Watsin38 (Mar 10, 2011)

meri said:


> I am making a closet and I have stained it dark walnut. My problem is the finishing. I used the polyurethane, shellac and varnish with the bristle and foam brush in the past and the problem with all of them is that they leave the brush mark. This time I want to spray the finish. I have a Wagner Paint Crew airless painter, can I use this to spray the finish.
> 
> Please someone help and advise what kind of finish I should use with what kind of sprayer.


So don't you like the color?
What you have told is good and suits too on it.
If you are facing problems in finishing, You may get assistance too. :blink:


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

bofa said:


> HVLP and gravity feed are two different options.
> 
> 
> gravity feed means cup is on top. it comes in hvlp and conventional.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jack warner said:


> gravity feed means cup is on top. it comes in hvlp and conventional.


+1. There may be some confusion about the type and style of spray guns. The gravity type has the cup on top, and it's usually a 20 oz container. That style comes in HVLP, and conventional output. That style can be cumbersome to handle as the weight of the media is above the gun. It's favored by auto body painters as the angle of discharge is usually down and it's more comfortable to use.

For finishing cabinetwork, it can be very uncomfortable when having to spray up into cabinets. The gun cannot be set down and to leave it means to hang it on something. The style looks like this:
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The conventional type spray gun comes in an HVLP, and siphon/pressure fed outputs. It usually comes with a 1 qt cup that screws on the bottom of the gun. I prefer this style, and many cabinet finishers do also. The balance is more comfortable than a gravity feed gun, as the weight is at the bottom. It's more convenient for spraying both down and up. The cup has a flat bottom and can be disconnected and set on a bench. The style looks like this:
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The self contained HVLP systems are very convenient, as you need no compressor. For the other gun types there are minimum CFM output requirements for a compressor. These systems are easy to use and very effective. They come with a conventional cup looking gun. System looks like this:
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## JCCLARK (Jan 30, 2007)

You need a lot more air for HVLP.
Most small 110 volt compressors will not adequately
suply a HVLP.
Conventional guns can use a lot less.
I use both, HVLP's are all I use for my body shop car painting,
but for cabinets, and lacquer, the old conventional guns seem
to do just as well, maybe even better.
Don't discount the old traditional "conventional" guns.
They come in siphon feed (cup on bottom) and
gravity feed too. And can be much cheaper.:thumbsup:


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## RetiredLE (Jan 20, 2011)

This stuff works great but you need good ventilation or the ability to apply it outside. We resurfaced our dining room table with it and the stuff is almost bullet proof.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

if im doing cabinets or something with a lot of angles, or just a lot of spraying, i use a pressure pot.
its a mater of personal taste. i find the gravity feed balances out the hose, its more comfortable to me.


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## meri (Mar 8, 2011)

I bought the compressor and gravity feed spray gun and spent almost 500 bucks on them. I only found out later that the lacquer is not sold in southern California in gallons and it can only be bought is spray cans. What other options you guys suggest that I get a good finish and does not get the brush marks also.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

meri said:


> I bought the compressor and gravity feed spray gun and spent almost 500 bucks on them. I only found out later that the lacquer is not sold in southern California in gallons and it can only be bought is spray cans. What other options you guys suggest that I get a good finish and does not get the brush marks also.


A waterbase polyurethane.












 







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## meri (Mar 8, 2011)

should it be applied with spray or brush. If with brush should I mix something with it. I want to avoid the brush mark


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

meri said:


> should it be applied with spray or brush. If with brush should I mix something with it. I want to avoid the brush mark


You said you got a compressor and a spray gun, so I suggested a finish (post #22)...no brush marks with a spray.











 







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## weavilswoodshop (Sep 3, 2010)

I hesitate to comment bcause it looks like that I'm the only one here who is addicted to wipe on poly. 1/2 mineral spirits 1/2 oil poly.. cotton rag ..wipe on ..smooth out ..no runs..no sags..no mess.. (simple and certainly no brush marks)


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## meri (Mar 8, 2011)

so you can spray water base polyurethane. Please confirm.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

meri said:


> so you can spray water base polyurethane. Please confirm.



Yes...consider this a confirmation. I affirm, admit to, reveal that, suggest, propose, imply, submit, recommend, that you can spray waterbase polyurethane with a spray gun and a compressor.












 







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