# Joining post form countertops with mismatched angles?



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A recent post showed two pre-cut 45 degree post formed countertops misaligned with a tapered gap.*
The question is, how to cut the proper angles on the edges so they will mate properly?
*What would be the best tool to use and the best method?*
Typically, when you buy them by the foot, they are not pre-cut. The pre-cuts assume a wall at 90 degrees, which is often NOT the case. Even variations of drywall thickness and sloppy applications can offset the angle by a few degrees. Now the installer, often a home owner, has to deal with two issues and decide the best way to have the job done correctly.

Typically, a circular saw and straight edge guide is used to cut the miters from the back side.
*However, I have never seen a router used to cut/trim/rework the angles on a post form countertop.
In the example above,* I wonder if a guide for the router base could be taped to the top OR on the bottom to get the proper angle.
Either way, a "partial depth" cut could be made to establish the new angle followed by a bearing bit riding on the new surface to complete the width.
I suppose a test cut could be made to see if my "theory" would work.








How to Trim Laminate Countertops


The final step in completing a laminate countertop — trimming its edges flush — can prove a little nerve wracking. After all, you have a lot of time and money invested in your project and the last…




blog.acmetools.com













How to Smooth Countertop Edges with a Router


My new countertop came unfinished. That means that the corners on every end were not only unsanded, but very sharp. Time to smooth countertop edges...




www.uglyducklinghouse.com


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I used a jigsaw with a up cut upside down and finished with a belt sander.

in the early 80’s we used a top saw…

the only time people use post form is when there trying DIY or apartment normally..

If this top is routed put for bolts, these will have to be redone…


----------



## fareastern (Sep 19, 2014)

Whatever you try there is a very good chance of splitting out chunks of melamine. A really sharp circular saw,with the worktop upside down might work if you can run it alongside a straight edge.I don't think I have seen a tracksaw that could cut the depth necessary to get through the upstand or that would be my first choice. Worst of all,you need to trim both sections and what works on one side may be more difficult on the other piece as you need to go from front to back on both and only one has the material to support your saw or router.Do you have a buddy with a large sliding table saw and a very fine blade-say 96 teeth?That might be a better possibility if the angle is set up with enormous care.


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I would take those back and look at another type of countertop. If you have a local counter top shop that does laminate tops, I would check into that. The laminate on the post formed tops is half as thick as the laminate that is used on custom made laminate tops. Chances are if you try to recut that miter joint, it’s going to chip. 
Mike Hawkins


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Post form laminate isn’t thin..


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Rebelwork said:


> Post form laminate isn’t thin..


I agree, it isn't thin, but it isn't as thick as a sheet of standard HPL, unless things have changed over the years. Post form is thicker than Melamine by far.


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Regular laminate is very flexible and easily cracked. Post form is much heavier and wont bend in tight radius without heat. Post form won’t show flaws iad easily..


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

fareastern said:


> Whatever you try there is a very good chance of splitting out chunks of melamine. A really sharp circular saw,with the worktop upside down might work if you can run it alongside a straight edge.I don't think I have seen a tracksaw that could cut the depth necessary to get through the upstand or that would be my first choice. Worst of all,you need to trim both sections and what works on one side may be more difficult on the other piece as you need to go from front to back on both and only one has the material to support your saw or router.Do you have a buddy with a large sliding table saw and a very fine blade-say 96 teeth?That might be a better possibility if the angle is set up with enormous care.


Those aren't my counter tops, I am just posing a question about using a *router* as a means of trimming the edges to correct the angles.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

firehawkmph said:


> I would take those back and look at another type of countertop. If you have a local counter top shop that does laminate tops, I would check into that. The laminate on the post formed tops is half as thick as the laminate that is used on custom made laminate tops. Chances are if you try to recut that miter joint, it’s going to chip.
> Mike Hawkins


Those aren't my counter tops, I am just posing a question about using a *router* as a means of trimming the edges to correct the angles.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Those aren't my counter tops, I am just posing a question about using a *router* as a means of trimming the edges to correct the angles.


----------



## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

neither link shows cutting a preformed countertop, but the top one is how i've always done laminate work. plywood top covered in laminate, then trim the laminate with a router and a flush bit. i wood've suggested that method to the poster of that thread, but i believe it wood be beyond her abilities. the only time i used a preformed counter top it bit me. i used a straight 4 foot piece to make a recycling center on my covered porch, it lasted 2 weeks before the whole thing delaminated.


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

If the tops are full length and haven’t been cut to size I would return them for tops without the back splash if they offer them. Much easier to manage


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> If the tops are full length and haven’t been cut to size I would return them for tops without the back splash if they offer them. Much easier to manage


Those aren't my counter tops, I am just posing a question about using a *router* as a means of trimming the edges to correct the angles.


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> Those aren't my counter tops, I am just posing a question about using a *router* as a means of trimming the edges to correct the angles.


What do you plan to do with these tops? LOL


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

shoot summ said:


> What do you plan to do with these tops? LOL


I had to repeat that 5 times, so when I get my hands on them, I'm gonna light them on fire right after I run them over with my tractor which will be shortly after I drill them full of holes. Thanks for asking.


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

shoot summ said:


> What do you plan to do with these tops? LOL


The topic confuses the original question and poster...


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Those aren't my counter tops, I am just posing a question about using a *router* as a means of trimming the edges to correct the angles.


It is an answer to the topic...


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> The topic confuses the original question and poster...


What didn't you understand about using a router to trim the angles?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Yes, I used the photo from a different thread, but the question is not difficult to understand.... or is it?
You comments are not helpful. If you have something positive to contribute do it, otherwise leave the comments to yourself.


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

It's a repeat question that is confusing to the original question.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> It's a repeat question that is confusing to the original question.


Sorry you are so confused. It's a very simple question.


woodnthings said:


> View attachment 433809
> 
> 
> *A recent post showed two pre-cut 45 degree post formed countertops misaligned with a tapered gap.*
> ...


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Rebelwork said:


> Post form laminate isn’t thin..


It’s not as thick as horizontal grade which is usually 1/16”. Vertical grade for door and drawer fronts is 1/32”. The post form is thinner, don’t know the exact measuremen though. Here’s a paragraph from a manufacture’s site:
*Post Form Grade Laminate*
Post forming is the process of applying laminate to a particleboard substrate using heat and pressure. Post form grade laminate is thin and often made with a different process than vertical or horizontal grade. This allows the material to bend and adhere to particleboard. The laminate layer doesn’t need to be as thick because the wood reinforces it. Post form grade is used almost exclusively in making countertops and tabletops.

Mike Hawkins


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You can purchase post form laminate in sheet form..


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Rebelwork said:


> You can purchase post form laminate in sheet form..


Interesting. I’ve usually only seen it sold as tops like in the original pic. I haven’t installed any laminate tops in a very long time. Last 20 years or so everyone wants granite or quartz.
Mike Hawkins


----------

