# Stain not absorbing



## 1514_113 (Jan 2, 2013)

I am refinishing an old table. I removed the old finish with stripper and by sanding with 60, 100, 150, and lastly 180 grit sandpaper. I then applied a pre-stain conditioner using a rag and followed the instructions and applied Rustoleum stain (color: Kona). The entire table stained pretty evenly except for the top. The issue seems to be that the table top is not absorbing the stain as the rest of the table did, resulting in it being a much lighter shade than the rest of the project. The wood was all prepped and conditioned in the same manner, so I'm not sure why this is happening. If anyone has any help or suggestions I would appreciate your help, thanks. I will post a couple pictures of the issue. One shows how the rest of the project came out. The other shows how the stain is appearing after a few coats on a portion of the table top against the bare wood.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

What kind of wood is the table?. It sounds like since the top was a level surface it just got too much wood conditioner or prehaps got sanded better. Anyway from where you are I would probably suppliment the color with a dye stain. This is something that is better sprayed. If you don't have the means of spraying you might have a paint store add tinting color to the stain to make it darker but be in the same tone and stain the top again. The excess will still need to be wiped off as any stain left on the surface will hinder the adhesion of the topcoat.


----------



## 1514_113 (Jan 2, 2013)

I'm not really sure what type of wood the table is. Are there any other options other than a dye stain? Maybe a way to correct if the wood was over sanded or conditioned? I have never used a dye stain before and I'm worried about being able to match the color to the rest of the project.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Unless the table is veneered it wouldn't hurt anything to give it a try resanding it although the wood conditioner and stain are deeply penetrated into the wood and sealing the pores. It still might not stain dark enough. Sanding it with courser paper will help make it darker but if you use a electric sander courser paper makes swirl marks in the wood and you don't really see them until you apply stain. It might take hand sanding and sand with the grain to achieve what you want. 

Another option to darken the stain you are using is pour some in another container and mix artist oil paint to the stain. The colors you would need for Kona is Black and a very little Red Oxide. Artist oil paint is very thick and it takes a lot of stiring to get it dissolved but you can use it to make the stain darker. 

I pulled up data off the internet on the Rustoleum Stain and it said a wood conditioner was not necessary. I don't believe it though. I believe maple would blotch without some kind of wood conditioner. Anyway there are many kinds of wood that it isn't necessary to use a wood conditioner and would be counterproductive to use it. A person really needs to know what type of wood they are finishing.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Can you post pictures of the table so an appropriate answer can be given?








 







.


----------

