# 1/4" wood strips on a table saw



## spidennis (Jul 10, 2012)

So I just got a suggestion about making wood strips on a table saw.

set up the left miter slide like a cross cut sled but make it a stationary fence instead with the exact 1/4" clearance to the blade.

the 1/4" piece comes off the left side and the working material is on the right where you can use the moving adjustable fence to hold your feather board. 

presently I'm set up in reverse, the normal-ish way, but i'll be looking into this method a bit more. I'm always looking for a better way, and my way could use some improvement. 

What do you guys thing of this method of cutting long 1/4" or thinner strips?


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

spidennis said:


> So I just got a suggestion about making wood strips on a table saw.
> 
> set up the left miter slide like a cross cut sled but make it a stationary fence instead with the exact 1/4" clearance to the blade.
> 
> ...


Rockler and others sell a jig to do just that:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056

I have one and it works well but I also have set up a featherboard in the left miter slot to handle the cut width as well as keep the board against the fence. Another featherboard on the saw fence to hold the board down and your good to go. Some may object that this method requires moving the fence each cut but unless doing a massive quantity, I don't find this to be much of an issue. 
If I were doing a large number, I would likely set up a half fence that would release the stock at the same time the blade finished the cut. :smile:

Edit - just reread the post. Are you trapping the falloff between the blade and your miter/slide thingy?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

jschaben said:


> If I were doing a large number, I would likely set up a half fence that would release the stock at the same time the blade finished the cut. :smile:


Check out the Gripper:
Amazon.com: Gripper(TM) 200 Advanced System - Assorted Colors (Green or Yellow): Home Improvement


Video By Charles Neil: Cutting Thin Strips on the Table Saw


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> Check out the Gripper:
> Amazon.com: Gripper(TM) 200 Advanced System - Assorted Colors (Green or Yellow): Home Improvement
> 
> 
> Video By Charles Neil: Cutting Thin Strips on the Table Saw


Got one, still not comfortable with it, especially since it ate one of feet on me. I still like nice long push sticks, riving knives and featherboards.:smile:


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## 1redneck1 (Jan 6, 2012)

I have used a peace of hard wood between the fence and blade with a wood stop glue and screwed to the back.When you run the first peice through it cuts the stop to size as well.

The stop acts as a hook that holds the board as you run it through the blade.

The good part is because the cut peace is on the fence side you don't change the fence position,and all the pieces are the same size.Cheap and home made.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

1redneck1 said:


> I have used a peace of hard wood between the fence and blade with a wood stop glue and screwed to the back.When you run the first peice through it cuts the stop to size as well.
> 
> The stop acts as a hook that holds the board as you run it through the blade.
> 
> The good part is because the cut peace is on the fence side you don't change the fence position,and all the pieces are the same size.Cheap and home made.


How about a pic. I can't get a mental image of how that works.:blink:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you can either...*

Make a thin push stick which is the same or thinner than your desired width and push it through ...
OR use a thicker stock like 3/4" with a "hook" and just saw right on through it, a sacrificial push stick more or less. 

I've done it both ways, and both ways work. :thumbsup: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jschaben said:


> How about a pic. I can't get a mental image of how that works.:blink:


+1. :yes: I'm trying to picture it too. It must be the heat here. If he uses a board between the fence and the blade as a guide with a stop, then his fall off to the left of the blade is the keeper. What happens to the stock on the board for the next cut? Maybe he could show it in a picture or just do a free hand drawing.










 







.


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## 1redneck1 (Jan 6, 2012)

Jig pix

I made one so you would the stopper cut off and hopefully it explains it better.If you make the board by the fence wide it keeps your hands well clear.

Joe


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

1redneck1 said:


> Jig pix
> 
> I made one so you would the stopper cut off and hopefully it explains it better.
> 
> Joe


So, what I see is the white board with the stopper cut off. The new stock that you want to take off that ¼" sits against the white board, and you push the board through the blade. The stock being cut has to be pushed against the white board throughout the cut...am I right so far?

So, IOW, the "save" piece being cut gets trapped between the blade and the white board. Am I still getting it right? The wood to the left of the blade is waste.

So, this cuts one ¼" piece...right? What happens if you have a 6' or 8' long board that you want to take ¼" off of?










 







.


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## 1redneck1 (Jan 6, 2012)

*strips*



cabinetman said:


> So, what I see is the white board with the stopper cut off. The new stock that you want to take off that ¼" sits against the white board, and you push the board through the blade. The stock being cut has to be pushed against the white board throughout the cut...am I right so far?
> 
> So, IOW, the "save" piece being cut gets trapped between the blade and the white board. Am I still getting it right? The wood to the left of the blade is waste.
> 
> ...


Yes that's correct .The "waist" is to the left , unless you are making multiple pieces , in which case you put it against the white board again.

I have only used it for 3 to 4 foot pieces.I imagine you could modify it for longer .


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Ok, I can see where that would work fine on shorter pieces. Cut to length first and then just start feeding. Not to enthused about the stock being trapped in there though. You would need to feed the whole shootin match through to clear the jig.:smile:


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## Stick (Aug 23, 2007)

spidennis said:


> So I just got a suggestion about making wood strips on a table saw.
> 
> set up the left miter slide like a cross cut sled but make it a stationary fence instead with the exact 1/4" clearance to the blade.
> 
> ...


In my honest opinion, a crosscut sled is the most important table saw jig you can make. From that, your possibilities are endless, including making repeatable 1/4 in strips in stock up to 12 inches long (depending on the width of your sled). :yes:


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I just ripped some 1/8" x 1/4" strips on my ts, using a pusher I made a while ago. It worked so good, I thought I would share it.
It piece that actually pushes, and holds the wood down can be changed for thin or thick rips. The picture shows a 3/16" wide one, made of some polyethelene I had laying around.
That piece can be slid over, to push in the center of a strip, so it doesn't cock the wood as you feed it.
The wing nuts are ones the hardware sells for attaching hurricane shutters. They have a washer attached, and are handy for jigs. The big knob, is off a CM ras, I turned in for the recall bounty.
I hand hold a straight piece of wood, next to the strip, to hold it to the fence.


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