# Question For You Furniture Makers



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hey all,

I know a lot of you have heard me talk about the cabin my wife and I have in northern Wisconsin. All of our interior remodeling is done and now I am at the point where I am going to make some furniture.

My first project is to make two 4-drawer rustic dressers. I haven't ever really made any furniture with the exception of a couple quickie tables.

I have a very simple design in mind. It will essentially be a face frame base cabinet with a top. Think of a 4 drawer face framed kitchen base cabinet with no toe kick recess. That's kind of the idea I have in mind. I will do some type of chunky thicker top much like I did on a recent DP cart I made.

My specific question right now (*and I am sure I will have more*) is how to treat the bottom of the dressers. The bottom edge of the face frame will be flush with the bottom edge of the side panels. There are no feet or any bottom trim or molding or anything like that. It will just sit flush on the carpeted floor like that. I do intend to make the bottom rail wider for aesthetic purposes. The rest of the FF will be two inches wide. Is it accepted practice and/or proper to just have everything flush on the bottom like that and call it finished OR would it be better from an aesthetic perspective to cut some type of relief pattern into the bottom of the bottom rail so that it doesn't all sit flush on the floor? 

OR am I missing the mark altogether and should treat the bottom edge of the dresser in some other way? I know a lot of dressers have feet, bottom trim, bottom moldings, bottom frames, etc. but wasn't really sure the best way to go.

Thanks for any and all advice.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Just to get you thinking, the bottom of the bottom rail and the bottom of the sides would do better if not sitting on the floor. So, having some sort of base, which would take the abuse of kicking, and cleaning would be in order.

For the design, your personal taste as to what would look good with your decor.










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Just to get you thinking, the bottom of the bottom rail and the bottom of the sides would do better if not sitting on the floor. So, having some sort of base, which would take the abuse of kicking, and cleaning would be in order.
> 
> For the design, your personal taste as to what would look good with your decor.
> 
> ...


Thank you for getting me thinking....lol.....as you always do...:yes:

Yeah I have kind of been sticking with the basic cabinet carcass design since that's what I know so far, but I have this very scary feeling that I may need to expand my horizons and start thinking about a different type of design alltogether. :blink:

Another though I had was to put some type of relief patterm on both the bottom edge of the FF bottom rail and in the side panels to create a psuedo "foot" effect in each corner. Maybe round that over a little bit and call it done.....hmmmmmmmmmmm.........


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

In my mind I see something like this. Can you guys tell me if that trim peice on the bottom just gets fastened on somehow (kind of like base molding)?

http://www.westcoastblinds.com/online/images/Image_2013.jpg


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> In my mind I see something like this. Can you guys tell me if that trim peice on the bottom just gets fastened on somehow (kind of like base molding)?
> 
> http://www.westcoastblinds.com/online/images/Image_2013.jpg


The base detail could be just pieces profiled, mitered, and attached to the bottom of the cabinet. Or, they could be the sides of a full platform, that the cabinet sits on. I'm inclined to think the base is just pieces of wood attached.










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> The base detail could be just pieces profiled, mitered, and attached to the bottom of the cabinet. Or, they could be the sides of a full platform, that the cabinet sits on. I'm inclined to think the base is just pieces of wood attached.
> 
> 
> 
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yep that's kind of what it looks like to me too.......i'll play around with a few ideas and see what I come up with......thanks as always.....:thumbsup:

One last thing if I may. I am *thinking* about using all 2X material (milled down to about 7/8") for these things. I had good luck using it with a DP cart I just built. I was thinking about using it for end panels, drawer fronts and the top......am I asking for problems down the road?


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

side question - where is your cabin in northern wi?


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

wfs said:


> side question - where is your cabin in northern wi?


Just outside of rhinelander in Newbold.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The sides carry the weight*

The weight of the dresser is carried on the sides, not the front, so the face or kick panel can be off the floor or not. Some designs call for a gentle sweeping curve on the kick panel, others are more intricate....kinda your call. 

If the floor is carpeted, the dust and crud will settle in the intersection if it's flush, and it will collect in the intersection.

If the floor is not carpeted, misc objects like ball point pens and marshmallows will roll under the unit and start a colony of their own. Pets will push their toys underneath and then squat in front of the unit until "help" shows up and retrieves the object. :blink: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> The weight of the dresser is carried on the sides, not the front, so the face or kick panel can be off the floor or not.


I wouldn't go through life thinking that. That would be true if there was no front toe kick (or center support or rear). If the sides didn't go to the floor, then it would follow that whatever was in the front and back (or center) would carry all the weight.

If you think that the sides only carry the weight, a divided cabinet in the middle will sag (due to unsupported weight), with no frontal (center or rear) support.










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Thank you both.....as always i learn a lot from you guys.....

btw...am i asking for trouble by using milled down 2X stock? I just have tons of it (dried) laying around and thought it might work for these.....


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> Thank you both.....as always i learn a lot from you guys.....
> 
> btw...am i asking for trouble by using milled down 2X stock? I just have tons of it (dried) laying around and thought it might work for these.....


You might get lucky. I wouldn't use that wood. They may get squirrely once you start machining them. Are they Pine? How are they for knots?










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> You might get lucky. I wouldn't use that wood. They may get squirrely once you start machining them. Are they Pine? How are they for knots?
> 
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Yeah that was my fear...i think i have just been lucky so far......

its a combo of doug fir and some pine.....not supper knotty but what's there seems pretty tight

I may end up just going to the saw mill and getting some 6/4 pine....i need it a little chunkier than 3/4 which is why i was thinking about the 2X materail....but I probably don't need the potential hassle.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I just go through life thinkin'*

The sides or the legs carry most of the weight depending. The toe kick is a decorative member unless of course it's divided and supported in the center. The toe kick is generally no greater than 3 or 4" off the floor and not always set in on furniture, but part of the face or minimal. Kitchen cabinets are different of course.

The legs support all the weight on this one








The lower self support carries some weight on this small one, but since its quite narrow it would normally tend to do that. On a much wider unit it will not carry as much weight or if there are many shelves above all transferring their weight to the sides. 








This is a desk side support and shows a gentle curve under the front face on the lower. It will only carry the weight on the lower shelf behind the closed door, all the rest of the weight of the desk is carried on the sides, not the front.








Just my humble opinion of course.....  bill


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Someday I really need to have both of you guys over to the house for a beer.....(at the same time of course) ...now that would be fun......just sayin.....:yes:....:drink:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> The sides or the legs carry most of the weight depending.


I'm gonna write that down. 










 







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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> Someday I really need to have both of you guys over to the house for a beer.....(at the same time of course) ...now that would be fun......just sayin.....:yes:....:drink:


Can I swap out for Seagrams VO?:laughing:










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Can I swap out for Seagrams VO?:laughing:
> 
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You name it...you got it......lol.....Bill?...beverage of choice?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I seldom drink...*



Tom5151 said:


> You name it...you got it......lol.....Bill?...beverage of choice?


I only drink when I'm alone or with someone....just sayin' :blink: bill


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> I only drink when I'm alone or with someone....just sayin' :blink: bill


LOL.....i like it.....:laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> I only drink when I'm alone or with someone....just sayin' :blink: bill


Bill...you'll be with someone...us. Just don't touch.:laughing:










 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*hmmmm*



cabinetman said:


> Bill...you'll be with someone...us. Just don't touch.:laughing:
> 
> 
> 
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Your mind shouldn't go there...just sayin' :no: bill


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> Your mind shouldn't go there...just sayin' :no: bill


 
hmmmmmmmmmm...yeah.....how bout them dressers, huh??......lol....:blink:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> hmmmmmmmmmm...yeah.....how bout them dressers, huh??......lol....:blink:


Now that you mention it, they did look a bit frilly.:laughing:










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Now that you mention it, they did look a bit frilly.:laughing:
> 
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lol.....dang it....and i was going for rustic....crap.....:laughing:


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Hey Tom is this cabin up north rustic or modern? Base your furniture on what your using it for and the type of furniture you like. Build the dresser anyway you want to. 
Because your the one that has to live with it, so make it to your liking.it doesn't matter what you do to it. On the floor or off the ground it's what you design. 
Good luck. 
Ps: I'll be going up that way to go snowmobiling in February. Love it up there. 
C-man & bill made good points as well.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Dominick said:


> Hey Tom is this cabin up north rustic or modern? Base your furniture on what your using it for and the type of furniture you like. Build the dresser anyway you want to.
> Because your the one that has to live with it, so make it to your liking.it doesn't matter what you do to it. On the floor or off the ground it's what you design.
> Good luck.
> Ps: I'll be going up that way to go snowmobiling in February. Love it up there.
> C-man & bill made good points as well.


It's rustic......yeah I know I have to make the ultimate decision but just wanted to get some input from folks wiser than me for starters. It helps open up my thinking...:yes:


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

That's cool. Understandable. Can't give you any other input on design.other than what you've been told. Hope to see what you do.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I know the question has been pretty well answered just thought I would throw my design in. It's basically a board glued and nailed to the side of the box of the chest in the picture then a wider moulding attached to the top around the chest to give it another dimension.

http://www.bigdaveswoodworks.com/im...gh_sawn_live_edge_big_daves_woodworks_67_.jpg


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> Just outside of rhinelander in Newbold.


ok cool - off of 47 - i am in three lakes/eagle river area every so often


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Big Dave said:


> I know the question has been pretty well answered just thought I would throw my design in. It's basically a board glued and nailed to the side of the box of the chest in the picture then a wider moulding attached to the top around the chest to give it another dimension.
> 
> http://www.bigdaveswoodworks.com/im...gh_sawn_live_edge_big_daves_woodworks_67_.jpg


 
Hey Dave,

Thank you sir. That is a beautiful peice. I really like the treatment around that bottom. I still haven't decided if I am going to add trim or make the bottom rail wider and do some type of pattern right on that. Cindi and I have been looking at tons of photos .......:thumbsup:


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

wfs said:


> ok cool - off of 47 - i am in three lakes/eagle river area every so often


you got it..right off of 47.....been going up in that area for almost 40 years...in Eag;e River all the time and we make an anual trek to the winery in three lakes......also spend quite a bit of time in Saint Germaine


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## jkline805 (Nov 14, 2011)

I would think that by allowing some sort of relief in the apron, you would avoid any wobbliness due to uneven floors. Four points of contact instead of one continuous one.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I'm pretty late this one but I have been watching it. Regardless of what you decide to run with just keep in mind that it's important you keep the carcass from racking. 

You've gotten good advice here, I just wanted to chime in though being it sounds like this is a new venture for ya. If your dresser gets racked or twisted drawers won't operate smoothly.

As for the lumber I think you would be fine with fir but better off with 4/4 stock to start with. 7/8" finished stock is really thick for a dresser, it's gonna take 2 to move it with out the drawers in it.

There is a lot of surface area for glue and joinery along the side of the dresser so you are just fine with 3/4 or 5/8. Also, no point in drawer boxes thicker than 1/2".

Good luck!

--------------------------------------------- one day I'll be so good that I won't need this forum any longer... then I'll know I have full onset Dementia! ~tom


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Thanks again to all who replied. I appreciate you guys taking the time to provide insight and advice.....It is very much appreciated and extremely helpful. I plan to get started in a couple weeks and will post pics.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Follow up question time......

If one is to install some type of trim treatment around the bottom of the dresser, doe it usually get installed on just three sides (left, right and front) or does it typically get wrapped around al four sides?

Same with the top. Does that generally sit flush with the back and overlap on just three sides?

Thanks.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> Follow up question time......
> 
> If one is to install some type of trim treatment around the bottom of the dresser, doe it usually get installed on just three sides (left, right and front) or does it typically get wrapped around al four sides?
> 
> ...


If the cabinet is against the wall...three sides. If it is designed as a free standing piece of furniture, where the edge design is integral to the overall look of the top, do 4 sides. Trim like crown...3 sides, unless it's a visual issue.










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> If the cabinet is against the wall...three sides. If it is designed as a free standing piece of furniture, where the edge design is integral to the overall look of the top, do 4 sides. Trim like crown...3 sides, unless it's a visual issue.
> 
> 
> 
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awesome......thank you sir....how's the knee?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> awesome......thank you sir....how's the knee?


It's sore, stiff, swollen, black and blue. But I can walk, or sort of hobble around. Thanks for askin'.








 





 
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