# How to make a Pocket Hole Jig



## sgtrunningfool

Hello everyone I have been lurking on this forum for awhile so thank you for all the info. I am getting prepared to start working on a end table and a night stand. I am military so it is a matter of time before I move so it is easier if I can talk furniture apart when I move. 

So I was wanting to make a pocket hole jig to hide the screws although I would rather do it with the nice joints that I have seen you guys using. I know that they are not that expensive but I live on a very tight budget. All of the wood I am using was given to me by a guy that was moving. 

thank you


----------



## WHWoodworking

I used to operate a floor model pocket hole cutter made by Castle. It used a router with a 1/4" or 5/16" straight bit, cutting in at an angle to the workpiece, rather than drilling a hole. The router motor was mounted on a pivot. Then a small drill bit came in from the end of the workpiece to create the pilot hole. If you have a router table, maybe there's a way to rig up an angled platform with a stop to push the workpiece into the router bit. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## cabinetman

sgtrunningfool said:


> Hello everyone I have been lurking on this forum for awhile so thank you for all the info. I am getting prepared to start working on a end table and a night stand. I am military so it is a matter of time before I move so it is easier if I can talk furniture apart when I move.
> 
> So I was wanting to make a pocket hole jig to hide the screws although I would rather do it with the nice joints that I have seen you guys using. I know that they are not that expensive but I live on a very tight budget. All of the wood I am using was given to me by a guy that was moving.
> 
> thank you


 





 
You could get around the jig, and just clamp or force the joint tight, and drill an angle hole, with a combo countersink/pilot bit. Use the correct screw length. This method was used way before pocket holes/screws came to market. Then it was called toe nailing, or toe screwing for fastening in lieu of traditional joinery.










 







.


----------



## WHWoodworking

cabinetman said:


> ​
> You could get around the jig, and just clamp or force the joint tight, and drill an angle hole, with a combo countersink/pilot bit. Use the correct screw length. This method was used way before pocket holes/screws came to market. Then it was called toe nailing, or toe screwing for fastening in lieu of traditional joinery.
> 
> 
> .


That would work for a few joints but would get a bit tedious for a large number.

Another thought I had would be to build a jig similar to a Kreg but out of a hard wood. Get a piece of steel tubing that has the inner diameter of the step bit (3/8" I think) then drill a hole into your jig that matches the outer diameter of the tubing. Secure the tubing into the hole with epoxy and viola! Your own Kreg knock-off.


----------



## Big Stud

I understand the tight budget thing. But how much is your time and effort worth? Not to mention your sanity.

Kreg makes an affordable pocket hole jig that works well. You can get a mini Kreg jig and kit at Rockler for about 20 bux and a few dollars more for a box of screws. You will need a clamp to hold it down while drilling,


----------



## jjrbus

Do a web search! Many more....

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...3&langId=-1&productId=100651825&storeId=10051

HD may give you a 10% military discount. JIm 0311


----------



## Rebelwork

Shop notes has a pocket hole cutter. Cant remember which issue.


----------



## johnep

My Kreg jig in the UK cost 11 GB Pnds, about $15.
johnep


----------



## ponch37300

Here is a kreg mini jig for 20 bucks from rockler, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?...campaign=PLA&gclid=CJy4teq30q0CFc3DKgodgjAMoA. I think the drill bit alone is 10-15 bucks when bought seperately if I remember right. So even if you make your own a metal sleeve bushing and a pocket hole bit will cost you more than just buying this kit and using it.

I have the kreg master kit and love it. Well worth the money in my opinion. The kreg screws can get expensive if you need a lot of them.


----------



## mackem

Hope this helps Sarge. :smile:


----------



## rrich

This one works and is only about $20.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5985&filter=kreg

A bit of a PITA to use but a "C" clamp holds the jig to the wood.


----------



## Armstrong4

I get that you're looking to do this frugally, but by the time you get the materials you need and spend the time putting them together why not simply drop $20 for a Kreg pocket jig and be done with it. Trust me, the investment in a solid reliable pocket jig will pay dividends for years and years to come.


----------



## sgtrunningfool

Ok you guys have convinced me to just buy a pocket hole jig. I wish one of the stores near me had one because is it hard to sneak one by my wife with an online purchase HAHAHA. THanks guys!!!


----------



## jjrbus

You are doing the right thing. I have a little free cash, however I am cheap and hate to spend it. But there are times when trying to save a few pennys can cost several $$$$$ and cause untold amounts of grief! Sometimes I look at a manufactured product and think I can do way better than that, sometimes I'm wrong! Good luck

JIm 0311


----------



## cabinetman

This is just my opinion, but I consider PH's/screws junk joinery. I have a Kreg jig stashed away somewhere. If I can find it, I'll send it to you free.










 







.


----------



## AndyDuframe

cabinetman said:


> This is just my opinion, but I consider PH's/screws junk joinery.


I think it depends on the project, doesn't it? If I were building a family heirloom from maple, cherry, etc. -- pocket joints probably wouldn't be my first choice for joinery. On the other hand, if I were building a storage cabinet for the garage, pocket holes would be perfect for that kind of project (I think).


----------



## sgtrunningfool

cabinetman said:


> This is just my opinion, but I consider PH's/screws junk joinery. I have a Kreg jig stashed away somewhere. If I can find it, I'll send it to you free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I agree that pocket hole joints are junk but being in the military it is easier if i can take stuff apart when i move. That is why i want a pocket hole jig otherwise i would not be interested


----------



## Rebelwork

One should not be ashamed to use a pocket hole where one wants too. Its a technology that has found its place and yet sometimes abused:yes:

I own hand planes but prefer to use machiney. Does this make me a wood butcher...Absolutly not...


----------



## LearnByDoing

I am a novice but I love my kreg pocket hole jig. When you don't have hours and days to fart around with more elaborate joinnery it's great. And there isn't much of a learning curve or tool setup. If you're trying to make airloom quality furniture and want to take some pride in your traditional joinnery, that's great too. But when you want to slap together some boxes or patio furniture, or afix face frames it's a great choice.

One question on the posters intended use though. You want to use them so you can take projects apart. But my understanding is that the strength of the joint comes from the screws AND glue. Assuming you are not going to glue up the joints, I'm not sure you'll get the rigid joint you're looking for.


----------



## jjrbus

I have watched them promote the PH jig's and it seems great for some things. Like anything you want to dissemble, such as knock down furniture for moving. I recently did a picnic table and used PH to hide the screws holding the table top on.

But cabinet doors? Not me. JIm


----------



## AndyDuframe

LearnByDoing said:


> But my understanding is that the strength of the joint comes from the screws AND glue.


Probably some different opinions about that...with most things I build, I don't usually have a need to take them apart later, so I go ahead and dab some glue on the pocket hole joint just for safe keeping. However, I have experimented with the no-glue method, and was very surprised how strong the joint seemed to be. I think it mostly depends on whether the joint will be subject to stress -- pulling, pushing, twisting, etc. -- the kind of thing you might expect from drawers, doors. In which case i would probably stay with glue.


----------



## Anywhy30

ponch37300 said:


> Here is a kreg mini jig for 20 bucks from rockler, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5985&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=kreg%20jig&utm_content=pe&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CJy4teq30q0CFc3DKgodgjAMoA. I think the drill bit alone is 10-15 bucks when bought seperately if I remember right. So even if you make your own a metal sleeve bushing and a pocket hole bit will cost you more than just buying this kit and using it.
> 
> I have the kreg master kit and love it. Well worth the money in my opinion. The kreg screws can get expensive if you need a lot of them.


That's why when I use my pocket jig I stop by my local Rural King n grab some galvanized deck screws(look just like drywall)work great for pocket [email protected] $3.xx bucks a lb


----------

