# Fence for an old Craftsman table saw?



## Patrick Besong (Feb 25, 2017)

I eventually want to buy a new Grizzly table saw, but until I can get the funds together, I was wondering if I could just get a better fence for the old Craftsman saw I currently have (which someone gave me for free a few years ago). The fence is the type that you hook on the far end then snap down in front. It's pretty terrible for making accurate cuts. I have to check the distance from the blade by laying a speed square into the groove and checking the distance to the groove in 3 places, bumping the fence until it just touches the end of the speed square. Other than that and the fact that I have to use locking pliars to raise and lower the blade, since the adjustment wheel screw broke off and the wheel won't stay on. Not sure how to fix that short of drilling it out and retapping it.

Anyway i was just wondering if anyone had any recommendations on a replacement fence system that would fit this saw? I'd prefer to keep it under $200. 

BTW, I built the stand out of scrap wood. The saw has pretty decent power. Other than the fence and the adjustment wheel, i could get by for a while with this one.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You might check ebay and just get a replacement fence. If you plan on replace the saw it really doesn't merit upgrading the fence you have.


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## JIMMIEM (Oct 12, 2014)

Check out Delta's T2 or T3 fences. I bought the T2 for $125 several years ago and it has worked just fine on my Craftsman Contractor TS from the 1970's. You will most likely have to redrill holes for mounting the front and back fence rails. Can you post a close up picture of the wheel?


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## Patrick Besong (Feb 25, 2017)

I figured I'd just sell the saw for the price of whatever I paid for the fence when I decide to get a new saw. 

Here is a photo of the wheel where the mounting screw is broken off. Not sure what i can use to get it out. I've never had any luck with those "easy outs".


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## Patrick Besong (Feb 25, 2017)

Just tried drilling and using an exctractor, but it broke (as usual) despite being as careful as i could be. Luckily I was able to tap out the tip of the extractor. I drilled the screw out about 3/8" and pretty much gave up. Maybe i'll just superglue the wheel on. If that doesn't work i'll just keep using locking pliars.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's what I'd do ...*

File or grind the end of the shaft flat. Drill a small 1/16" hole on the screw, but inside the shaft. Place a small center punch in the hole at 45 dehee angle, to get a fixed position. Now tap the center punch counter clock wise. It will loosen the screw... unless I'm mistaken. Once the screw is loose continue to "drive" it around far enough to grip it with vise grips.

You might try some concentrated heat from a propane torch to free things up. I wouldn't heat for more than a minute or two, then try the punch. Those hand wheels are available used on Ebay. Looks to be a 1/2" bore with a flat. They can also be metal if you go with a side set screw rather than a front "hold on" screw.


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...TRS0&_nkw=Craftsman+table+saw+handle&_sacat=0

Here's one of many:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-R...922310?hash=item4668151306:g:2QEAAOSw4dxZdzCr

Measure your shaft diameter to be certain, some were smaller ...?

Unless I'm mistaken you are missing the front rail of your fence. The photos below on Ebay show the front and rear rails made of angle. There are also new replacement fences.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od....TRS0&_nkw=Craftsman+table+saw+fence&_sacat=0


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

If you have $200 to spend on a fence system just buy a Craftsman or Ridgid or even a Delta belt drive (that are commonly refereed to as contractor saws) table saw "with" a good fence and rail system. They became available on CL at that price point or lower all the time. You will have a nicer saw until you purchase whatever Gizzley model you plan on.


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## Patrick Besong (Feb 25, 2017)

Drilling is kind of out as far as I'm concerned. Took me a long time and several bits to get to 3/8" deep. Tried working it around in the meantime with no luck. I also tried superglue and it worked till it hit some resistance at the end of the limit, then broke free. Not worried about it. I'll just use locking pliars. Yes, the front angle iron is missing as well as the tensioner on the fence itself. there is also a connector missing between the front and back angle irons. Will probably just get something from ebay that will fit my saw and wait till i get a new saw. Thanks for the recommendations.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I folund this on You Tube*

This fellow makes a "cabinet saw" from a direct drive saw like yours. It includes a new fence and a larger top. It's a bit of work, but it turned out really well for a no $$ saw:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I have one of those saws and my original fence is missing a part to clamp it. I only use it to cut Plexiglas so I've been using a "C" clamp to lock it in place. I've been doing it for at least 20 years and I probably should also look in to see exactly what I need to fix it so I can give it to my daughter.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Please don't ....*



Sleeper said:


> I have one of those saws and my original fence is missing a part to clamp it. I only use it to cut Plexiglas so I've been using a "C" clamp to lock it in place. I've been doing it for at least 20 years and I probably should also look in to see exactly what I need to fix it so I can give it to my daughter.


Please do not give your daughter a saw with fence that won't completely lock down and also that aligns parallel to the slots. This is important to avoid kickbacks and possibly worse. I would also want to have a blade guard and splitter on a saw I was giving to a loved one. You or I might know how to work around some issues but a novice will not have our experience.... just sayin' :smile3:


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## Patrick Besong (Feb 25, 2017)

That is a nice cabinet saw. I'd have kept the original top, though. Not sure what the advantage of wood is besides having a larger surface. I'd have just extended it with wood.

I agree, woodnthings. I wouldn't give anyone that saw without first fixing the fence and possibly adding some safety features too. 

The fence should have a handle that either turns (as i think mine should have) or push down to lock it in place. My handle is missing and it looks like someone put a bolt there, but tightening it does no good. I figured i'd just get a new fence anyway.

I'd need to drill and retap for a wheel and also buy a replacement wheel. I noticed the one I have is rounded out, so even with a screw holding it on, there probably wouldn't be enough tension to turn blade up and down. Apparently instead of oiling the mechanism as I did when i first got it, someone just muscled the wheel around and broke it off. A shame too, because after oiling it, it turns fairly easily with locking pliars. stupid people.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Please do not give your daughter a saw with fence that won't completely lock down and also that aligns parallel to the slots. This is important to avoid kickbacks and possibly worse. I would also want to have a blade guard and splitter on a saw I was giving to a loved one. You or I might know how to work around some issues but a novice will not have our experience.... just sayin' :smile3:


Oh no, I meant that I wanted to fix the fence before giving it to anybody especially my daughter.


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## Patrick Besong (Feb 25, 2017)

Just a quick update, I bought a Delta T3 fence for my old Craftsman 113 table saw. Absolutely love it. I had to drill all new mounting holes for it, but it was worth the extra work. I got it dialed in and it cuts straight cuts exactly the size I set on the gauge. Prior to installing the fence, I stripped the top and sanded down the rust on the wings. Primed and repainted the whole top semi-gloss black with a red insert. Looks great and after adding some paste wax, the boards just glide along now. I also got a miter guage from ebay as mine was missing. I'm currently boxing in the 2x4 stand I made for it with 3/4" plywood (had some left over from kitchen remodel) and will add a dust port on the back of the cabinet. Ordered some locking casters and a paddle switch too, since the original switch is kind of hard to find under the fence rails. I had to grind off the rod that holds the separator as it was in the way of the rear rail, but I'd rather have the fence. Would be nice to have the separator, but nowhere to install one. I'll post a pic when I get the cabinet done and painted.


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## Patrick Besong (Feb 25, 2017)

I'm trying to wire in a new safety switch on my table saw now, but not sure what size wire I need to buy. I see the black wire is split between the poles of the original switch so I was just going to get a wire to hook to both ends of the black wire then attach them to the terminals on the safety switch. What size wire should I be looking for? I had a wire from an old vacume cleaner, but it looked smaller than the wires in the switch box, so I didn't use it. I kinda thought it would work, since it plugged directly into a wall socket when it was on the vacume cleaner, but just wasn't sure. The saw is wired only for 110v, not 220.


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## Patrick Besong (Feb 25, 2017)

got my saw pretty much done. I added the Delta T-3 fence, a new safety switch, added another wing on the right side (doubled sheet of 3/4" plywood), and boxed in the 2x4 stand I made for it. Man, I just can't believe what a difference! That Delta fence pretty much changed the whole saw. Here are some pix. I made a door in the back so I can vacume out the saw dust. I also have a vacume port I was going to install on the door, but I'm waiting to see how this works out first. The safety switch is so much better. I can turn it on easier than the original switch and even bump it off with my knee if I need to. See the difference in my original post. It's like a new saw altogether! thinking of making the plywood wing into a router table at some point.


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## JIMMIEM (Oct 12, 2014)

Looking good!!! Nice job.


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