# Turning copper on wood lathe?



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have a chunk of solid copper, round bar 1" OD, and want to turn one end into the shape of a BULLET. Approx. 1-1/2" long, with a smaller diameter to side into a 3/4" plumbing pipe.

Anyone turn copper on a wood lathe? I was thinking using a SCRAPER, not a GOUGE, and also files and sand paper. 

Here is a picture of basically what I am shooting for. I turned these out of wood, but want my BULLET to be solid copper. 

Comments are most welcome. 

Thank You,

Dale in Indy


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Never tried it however I think it would work but watch for it to get really hot fast.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

it shouldn't be a problem, lots of folks turn copper or brass for ferrules.
WT doesn't have a place in Indy but I am sure there are places there that sell carbide bits for metal working. This is the type I am referring to (not woodworking carbide bits). For $2-3 you can get a bit brazed on a shank made for the job. The retailer can also tell you what speed to turn at and suggest a shape.
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/15848/


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Turning copper is easy. I use gouges instead of scrapers. You can't force the tool you have to let it cut. Copper can work harden and may have to be softened if it isn't cutting well. To soften copper you do the exact opposite of annealing steel. You heat it red hot and quench it. That softens it to make it workable.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have a 1236 Jet variable speed, I don't have a chuck. Was thinking cross cutting the head stock end of the 1" copper to match the spur center, then drilling the other end for the live spur. Do you think that will work?

I don't need to shape to a point, just blunt end is fine, so can then cut from stock. 

This chunk is labeled FULL HARD, so probably will have to soften. 

Thank You,

Dale in Indy


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

I would mount a waste block on a faceplate and center drill it to fit the copper and then epoxy the copper into the hole and turn the end. You will need to be careful about heating up the copper with friction from turning tools or sanding because it transmits heat rapidly and will soften the epoxy. If you take it slow you shouldnt have a problem.
If you don't have a drill that will chuck up into the tailstock simply take your time with a parting tool and cut a hole to be a tight fit for the copper.
I would use the tailstock anyway up until the last little bit. Cutting metal on the wood lathe takes patience and light cuts and the tailstock will reduce the chatter and make it easier and safer.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Good info, I do have a drill chuck, and good bits to drill the hole in the waste block mounted on a faceplate. That will aid a lot in getting it centered so less start up wobble. 

SLOW is the MESSAGE, Thank You,

Dale in Indy


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Yea typically what I do is drill the hole. Insert the metal or wood or whatever into the hole with epoxy. The use the tailstock to center the other end as best I can. That cuts down on the wobble from the very start and then the tailstock supports it for most of the cuts. 
I had to turn a bunch of aluminum pieces for a glass student who needed them for a project. I used exactly that method. Now I would use my chuck with the small jaws but I didn't have them back then. Aluminum doesn't work harden as bad. The copper will not work harden while turning, usually it hardens when being bent or metal spinning. So once you anneal it you won't have to do it again.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*turning copper bar, round solid.*

Do you think my MAP GAS torch will get the bar RED HOT, and can I just anneal one end, say approx 4-6"?

Here is the 1" OD bar in my wood holder. I had used this face plate piece for another project, so put it back to use, hehe. 

After I anneal, I will epoxy in place. 

Thank You John,

Dale in Indy


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Turning copper is not a problem at all. I have turned lots of copper including a two inch diameter copper hammer. Being an excellent conductor of heat, there is no reason that it should get hot unless you are just rubbing it with dull tools rather than cutting. Watch out for shavings as they are seriously sharp. Be very careful when sanding and wear full protection -- HEPA respirator, goggles, face shield, disposable gloves and long sleeves because the dust is toxic and highly reactive.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

I would try to turn it first before attempting to anneal it. if it cuts your in business. I suspect you will have trouble heating something that thick with a MAPP gas torch. It might get the very end red hot but if that's all you need to turn that will be enough. Heat it red hot and quench it and it should work for you. But again I would just try and turn it. It's probably not that hard as is. The only copper I've had trouble turning was pipe fixtures and I guess they were hardened for a reason.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

I agree with John. Trying to anneal it with a MAPP torch is a failed proposition. You can anneal steel because it is such a poor heat conductor, but copper is second only to silver in conducting heat. This means that the heat will conducted away so fast that unless you have a furnace to heat the entire bar, a MAPP torch is like a peanut whistle. Copper is relatively soft. I have turned hard brass pipe nipples and it is much harder than copper. Don't forget that you can also use carbide tools to turn the copper.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

You can test the copper by striking it with something like a screwdriver blade while it is suspended on a string. If it is hard it will ring. If it it is annealed, the sound will be much duller.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Thank YOU all for the GOOD INFO.

Things like the dust/shavings are TOXIC, and WHAT to wear when turning copper. 

Just another REASON I like this site, and YOU ALL,

Thanks,

Dale


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have some time tonight, and just spent a hour trying to turn my copper 1" OD round bar into a 1-1/2" BULLET. 

This is what they call FULL HARD COPPER, and it is a slow process. I will post pictures of my progress later tonight. 

May have to take it and have it softened by someone with a furnace. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*turning copper bar, round solid.*

As you can see it doesn't look very smooth, but may be that's the way copper turns. to get to this point it took approx. 90 minutes. 

It didn't come off in CURLS, but small slivers, it also didn't get real hot. I don't have any CARBIDE tipped cutters, they might make a big difference???

Hoping to get some comments. 

Thank You,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have the BULLET nearly finished, now turning the shank that will slip in the copper tube.

Should post pic's tonight, or morning. This is a HARD piece of copper, so takes time, doesn't grab like wood does though, since it doesn't have HARD and SOFT spots. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*turning copper bar, round solid.*

Ok here is the BULLET near the shape I want. Behind the bullet I will step down the OD to approx. 3/4+" so as to slip inside the copper tubing. That part will be approx. 1", the BULLET is approx. 1-3/4" with max OD of 7/8". 

Now I will use a couple different files, and sand paper to get the finish I desire. 

I hope to finish it tomorrow, slow process, so I jump around to other tasks that I'm working on. 

After that I will slice it down the middle past the shape, then cut off from long stock. I will post that method too. 

Dale in Indy


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Making good progress there, i was curious as to how well the copper would cut. Ill admit, when i first heard it i thought it was a horrible idea. Good to see its working well!

Not to be rude, but why do you capitalize certain words?


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I use UPPER CASE to call attention to a word, or issue. 

Sorry if it offends anyone, it ISN'T that I am YELLING or MAD, just the way I have always posted, and even in hand written letters/notes. At nearly 78, probably WON'T change, hehe. 

YOU, didn't offend me by asking. 

Dale in Indy

P.S. The copper bar is slipped inside my wood chuck, NOT glued, when I cranked in the tail stock, it pushed the other end up against the back wall of the wood, and since the copper was rough cut, well, it GRIPS very well, so NO glue was needed. Worked out well.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*turning copper bar, round solid.*

Here is the bullet just B4 removing and cutting off end.

Now to make a jig to hold as I slice it down the middle using my bmetl cutting band saw. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*turning copper bar, round solid.*

OK, this will wrap up this thread.

Just finished cutting the bullet off the 12" stock, now to sand, buff, and clear coat. I am considering painting a thin stripe near the joint, color not determined yet. 

I am pleased, slow process, but it worked. 

Dale in Indy


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## hazimkazim (Nov 27, 2014)

wowwww........that is really interesting and amazing


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*turning copper bar, round solid.*

I've receive a couple E-' asking that I post the finished pic's., so here it is on our living room carpet. 

Still have to mount right side trim, darken smoke stacks, and finish the wild grass panels that will slip between the foundations. 

Going to take some ANGEL hair, and lightly spray sooty black/gray and flow it out of the stacks.

Thank You ALL for viewing,

Dale in Indy 

Special THANKS to my bride Sharon of 54+ years, every single day she encourages me, she is my special wife/best friend. I am naming the Locomotive, "FERNIE", her name is Sharon Fern, born in Upper Michigan, Iron Mountain to be exact. She is so proud of her birth place.


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