# Router table



## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I'm taking welding in high school and I have the choice of what to make for a project. I already ok'd making a router table/cart with my welding teacher. I have to make the frame from metal but I can have wood on the sides if I want too. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas or plans that if might be able to use. I have no idea how to build a router table or a fence system for it. So the more explanation the better. Thanks for taking time to read this and help me.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Hi JB.

There are numerous threads here on the subject.

Its a pretty broad subject so try a search of this forum then if you have specific questions we'll be able to help.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

What router table insert plate could I use a hf 1.5 horsepower plunge router. Or is it better to make it special. Or if I upgrade will I have to get a new insert plate?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The mounting holes very from router to router. I would make the top with a 10" to 12" square hole in it with a lip to accept a 1/4" thick aluminum plate. Then make the plate and drill and countersink holes in it to fit the router you have. At some time in the future when you change routers and the holes don't match up it gives you the option of making a new plate to fit the new router.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Would 10"x10"x1/4" support a12 lb router


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I would buy a standard plate or lift. That way you can have the different sized inserts for safety. :smile:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

mdntrdr said:


> I would buy a standard plate or lift. That way you can have the different sized inserts for safety. :smile:


What would you suggest? As in what brand/type?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

jbwhitford said:


> What would you suggest? As in what brand/type?


Any 1/4"-3/8" aluminum plate that has removable center rings will be fine. If you want the Ferrari, grab a Jessum master lift II. :yes:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I don't know any brand names so how would I find them? I just bought the router a 1 3/4 hp craftsman plunge router. Variable speed 1/4 and 1/2 shank. So can I get a plate specifically for that?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

*Here's what you need...*

If you shop around, you can probably find better prices than these.

http://www.rockler.com/search/go?asug=&w=Router++Insert+Plate :smile:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Would those come with the screws to mount the router to the table?


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Also I've seen to make the top 1 1/2 inches thick is this to thick or should I go an inch


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> Also I've seen to make the top 1 1/2 inches thick is this to thick or should I go an inch


The thickness of your top wouldn't really matter. You would just make a rabbetted lip around the top where you are going to insert the router lift plate. For the screws you remove the plastic sub-base of your router and use those screws to mount the base of the router to the plate.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Also would I best using mdf and laminating it or use hardwood like oak or hard maple?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

2 layers of 3/4" MDF will work as long as you apply HPL to all surfaces. I also added steel tubing under mine so it will never be able to sag. :smile:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Sorry but what's hpl?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

jbwhitford said:


> Sorry but what's hpl?



High Pressure Laminate. Formica, is on manufacturer, there are many. :smile:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Ok thanks. I have to finish designing it and I will post a picture of my plans. Do you have experience with a hinged top? I've heard there good to have.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

jbwhitford said:


> Ok thanks. I have to finish designing it and I will post a picture of my plans. Do you have experience with a hinged top? I've heard there good to have.



No, I use a lift in the wing of my tablesaw. :smile:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Ok thanks.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Do you have a miter slide on your tables and if you do how often do you use it?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

jbwhitford said:


> Do you have a miter slide on your tables and if you do how often do you use it?


I don't. I have a coping sled that rides the fence.

You can also use a square piece of plywood against the fence instead of having a miter slot. :smile:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

Does anyone know where you can get t track rockler is back ordered until the 28th.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Amazon


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I know earlier I discussed making my own table insert for my router to attach too. But I was thinking it would be cheaper. I can cut out a 8 1/4 x11 3/4x 1/4 steel plate that would match a rockler insert. What do you guys think.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I can match the 1.5 hole with drawing the plate on auto cad and programming the plasma table at school to cut it. Here's a link to the rockler plate. http://www.rockler.com/rockler-router-table-plates#product-tabs


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

jbwhitford said:


> I know earlier I discussed making my own table insert for my router to attach too. But I was thinking it would be cheaper. I can cut out a 8 1/4 x11 3/4x 1/4 steel plate that would match a rockler insert. What do you guys think.


Steel is harder to fabricate and would weigh about 7 lbs. If you are good with that go for it.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

If I do do that I don't know if I should make the hole 1 1/2 or 2 or bigger I don't know how big router bits generally are


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

What diameter router bits do you guys use the most/ the largest you use the most


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

The one problem I see in making a hole to fit any size bit, especially if you want to use say a 1/4" straight bit is the is large hole doesn't have the support, that's why most plates or lifts offer inserts for the appropriate sized bits.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It's still going to be cheaper If I make more than one metal plate with different hole sizes. I was think the smallest would be 1 1/4 and the largest would be 2 1/2. I should I go smaller.


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## patrick_handy18 (Mar 1, 2014)

jbwhitford said:


> Would those come with the screws to mount the router to the table?


I would buy a kreg insert plate. It comes with levelers to help level it out. Run about 60 dollars online


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## patrick_handy18 (Mar 1, 2014)

I believe so yes they should !


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

jbwhitford said:


> It's still going to be cheaper If I make more than one metal plate with different hole sizes. I was think the smallest would be 1 1/4 and the largest would be 2 1/2. *I should I go smaller.*


Yes. 3/8,5/8,7/8, and 1" plus a 1 1-3/16 with a 1-3/8x1/16" counter bore.
Hole should be ~ 1/8" larger than the bit being used.:smile:

Plate doesn't need screws to mount it to the table, it does need screws to adjust the height *level with the table.*


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I bought a kreg one already and posted pictures bit thanks for the help


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It's on a different thread called router table price


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

patrick_handy18 said:


> I would buy a kreg insert plate. It comes with levelers to help level it out. Run about 60 dollars online


Mine didn't come with levelers. Just the plate and different sized insets.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

jbwhitford said:


> Mine didn't come with levelers. Just the plate and different sized insets.


That's cuz they sell a leveling kit for another $20.
https://www.kregtool.com/Precision-Router-Table-Insert-Plate-Levelers-Prodview.html

Just cut your hole a inch or so smaller in each direction, ie 8¼x10¾ and put a 1/2" rabbet around the hole. 
I'm assuming your making the top out of a wood product, if you are making it from steel cut your hole the size of the plate and put cleats(?) around the inside edge of the hole to hold the plate. You need to keep in mind that the plate is 3/8" thick which is likely thicker than any steel you would want to use for a top. :smile:


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

It's going to be 2x3/4 mdf glued and laminated


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

jbwhitford said:


> It's going to be 2x3/4 mdf glued and laminated


"Just cut your hole a inch or so smaller in each direction, ie 8¼x10¾ and put a 1/2" wide rabbet around the hole. "

That's all you need to do. Cut the rabbet equal to or a little deeper than the plate is thick then shim or fabricate a leveling system to bring the plate flush with the table top. The tricky part will be getting the corners right. IIRC the corners on that plate have a 3/4" radius. :smile:


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