# Riving Knife for Delta 10" Tablesaw



## wickedsolo (Feb 17, 2017)

I have a Delta 36-600 10" contractors saw and I've been interested in finding a solution for adding a riving knife. However, I'm not sure if it is possible with this type of saw. 

Has anyone else had this issue? 

Any products or solutions that have been found to be effective? 


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## Techsniffer (Feb 19, 2017)

I've seen some people make custom throat plates and add in a vertical piece of wood/metal to act as a riving knife to reduce pinching and kickback, you would need to take care to make sure it's positioned correctly.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-poUiD1shg7M/VdQq1CvHaaI/AAAAAAAABw8/a64SKK4z3bk/s1600/b.jpg


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## wickedsolo (Feb 17, 2017)

Techsniffer said:


> I've seen some people make custom throat plates and add in a vertical piece of wood/metal to act as a riving knife to reduce pinching and kickback, you would need to take care to make sure it's positioned correctly.
> 
> http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-poUiD1shg7M/VdQq1CvHaaI/AAAAAAAABw8/a64SKK4z3bk/s1600/b.jpg




I've thought about attempting this, but I'm not confident that I could get it to work correctly. 


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

No aftermarket riving knife exists for the 36-600, so it'll have to be something custom. For that saw, it'd be more prudent to add something like the Microjig splitter to it....simple and affordable.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

I just bought an MJ Splinter kit. The yellow (thin kerf) $25.00 one. It just arrived today so I haven't installed it. I haven't made the zero clearance insert yet. It is actually going on the saw I am restoring. Not a riving knife to be sure but looks like it will serve my purpose.

Maybe it is worth a look for your needs.


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## Techsniffer (Feb 19, 2017)

subroc said:


> I just bought an MJ Splinter kit. The yellow (thin kerf) $25.00 one. It just arrived today so I haven't installed it. I haven't made the zero clearance insert yet. It is actually going on the saw I am restoring. Not a riving knife to be sure but looks like it will serve my purpose.
> 
> Maybe it is worth a look for your needs.


My only issue with the MJ Spliter is that the piece is designed to come out, which is a 'safety feature' but I would imagine it comes out when not wanted, or needed, which might prove irritating. And even with the MJ kit, it would still require a custom throat plate to be made.


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## wickedsolo (Feb 17, 2017)

Looking at my zero clearance insert, not sure there is enough space for it behind the blade.


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## Daddyfats (Oct 31, 2020)

wickedsolo said:


> I have a Delta 36-600 10" contractors saw and I've been interested in finding a solution for adding a riving knife. However, I'm not sure if it is possible with this type of saw.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue?
> Hi there - did you ever find a solution for the riving knife? Thanks! Andrew
> ...


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## Daddyfats (Oct 31, 2020)

Hi there - did you or anyone find a solution to the riving knife for the Delta 36-600 or 36-670 table saw? Thanks, Andrew


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## ducbsa (Jul 6, 2014)

Have you looked at Shark Guard?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

A riving knife moves up and down with the blade, a splitter does not. A zero clearance throat plate is always desirable, because one with a large gap is not. It's not safe if small pieces can get stuck down in between the plate and the spinning blade..
However, splitters and riving knives do essentially the same things:
Keeps the kerf from closing on the spinning blade.
Keeps the workpiece registered against the fence at the rear of the blade, if only very lightly.
If the saw kerf closes up on a spinning blade, it could either stall the saws motor or throw the entire workpiece back at the operator, a type of kickback. If the workpiece is allowed to move away from the fence behing the spinning blade, it may rise up and over the blade and be thrown back at the operator, a rotational kickback.
If you make or purchase a zero clearance throat plate/insert you can either drill small holes as for a Micro Jig plate or make a thin saw kerf to accept a shop made plate of aluminum, plastic or wood which will serve the same purpose. Whether it moves up and down with the blade is your choice based on your own ingenuity. I have older Craftsman 10" saws that came with fixed height splitters and other than they are a PAIN to realign if I remove them for certain operations, they work well for me. I wouldn't have a table saw without one!
🙃


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## Daddyfats (Oct 31, 2020)

ducbsa said:


> Have you looked at Shark Guard?


Thanks! Checking them out now!


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## Daddyfats (Oct 31, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> A riving knife moves up and down with the blade, a splitter does not. A zero clearance throat plate is always desirable, because one with a large gap is not. It's not safe if small pieces can get stuck down in between the plate and the spinning blade..
> However, splitters and riving knives do essentially the same things:
> Keeps the kerf from closing on the spinning blade.
> Keeps the workpiece registered against the fence at the rear of the blade, if only very lightly.
> ...


Thanks for the write up. I didn't realize the difference between the splitter and the riving knife. I wonder if my saw even moves up and down with the blade card. I think the guard is stable. (I have inherited this saw - thus getting things set up so I am safe).


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## Daddyfats (Oct 31, 2020)

Daddyfats said:


> Thanks for the write up. I didn't realize the difference between the splitter and the riving knife. I wonder if my saw even moves up and down with the blade card. I think the guard is stable. (I have inherited this saw - thus getting things set up so I am safe).


My saw pics attached


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## CharleyL (Jan 13, 2019)

For Delta table saws, there is something called a "Pop-up splitter" https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-34-868-Bracket-Splitter-Assembly/dp/B0007SXGQ0 . The Amazon photo shows it lying down. When installed, it is 90 deg counter clockwise to the photo. It's a bit pricey, but in my opinion, well worth it. It attaches behind the rear of the blade where the large silver washer is in the photos above, much like the blade gusrd/splitter. When needed, you remove the throat plate and lift the splitter up into place, then replace the throat plate. The rear slot in the factory throat plate will fit around this splitter, or you can add this slot to your shop made zero clearance throat plates. When not needed any longer, the Pop-up splitter can be pushed down below the throat plate by just reversing the process. A splitter is really only needed when ripping solid wood, since that is the only time that wood being cut can close against, and pinch the blade. The Pop-up splitter has anti-kickback pawls on it too, but I never found them to be very effective, although they will stop the wood from rising up significantly if the blade teeth at the rear of the blade do catch and try to lift the wood being cut. You should be using a push stick or device that also holds the wood being cut down against the table as you feed it into the blade as well. For those of us who find the blade guard "unsuitable", the pop-up splitter can be very acceptable. No, it isn't a "riving knife", but for a saw not designed for a riving knife, it is the next best thing..

Charley


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## MrYoda (Jan 10, 2021)

wickedsolo said:


> Looking at my zero clearance insert, not sure there is enough space for it behind the blade.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Howdy WickedSolo, you ever find a solution? my 34-670 looks like it doesn't have a ton of space either


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## kennitheclown (5 mo ago)

Daddyfats said:


> My saw pics attached


Yup, that's just like mine. Our saws have a splitter that holds the guard. No riving knife attachment. I cut a piece of 16 ga steel into a riving knife shape and attached it to the splitter mount. It will work for ripping but I'll have to remove it for cuts that don't go all the way through the board. I'm going to have a look at the MicroJig Splitters and make up some zero clearance plates.


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