# Kreg Jig for Bookcase



## djonesax (Mar 3, 2008)

I want to build a quick bookcase for my office. I don't need anything fancy and I was wondering if I used my Kreg Jig without dado's if it would be strong enough to hold the weight. Books get pretty heavy. I'm thinking from floor to ceiling and maybe 5-6 feet wide. I would have a divider in the center making two columns of shelves so the shelf span isn't so long.

David


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## bb71 (Jan 23, 2010)

If you're looking for quick and don't want to dado, you could consider putting a small cleat front to back under each end of the shelves. The cleats could be covered from the front by a face frame. Obviously you'd still see the cleats from the underside of the shelves but they'd look fine. I have never pocket holed shelving in without dados. You'd be relying on the shear strength of the screws to hold up your heavy books.


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

I agree with the cleats. I think you could connect all the frame pieces with pocket screws as long as you put a back on it to add to the strength. Cleats will be a quick and durable method. Glue and screw.


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## djonesax (Mar 3, 2008)

Rob said:


> I agree with the cleats. I think you could connect all the frame pieces with pocket screws as long as you put a back on it to add to the strength. Cleats will be a quick and durable method. Glue and screw.


Actually, I was going to build it right on the wall and wasn't going to add a back

I should probably just stop cutting corners before I even start and just do the dado's. They don't really take that long anyway. Maybe what I'll do is a combination of dado's and pocket hole screws so I don't have to clamp it while the glue dries.

David


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## djonesax (Mar 3, 2008)

When I have made bookcases in the past I have dado’d and glued everything even the shelves. With cleats the shelves are free floating and can me removed. I was treating each shelf as part of the structure but I suppose I don’t really need to do that as long as the frame is strong. I’m not planning on putting a back on it so I guess dados and glue would still be a good idea.


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

I think you could dado a middle shelf and that would add a lot of stability. The others could be cleated.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

no dados or side cleats are needed if there is a wall cleat and a face front.


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

> no dados or side cleats are needed if there is a wall cleat and a face front.


You would trust the pocket holes on the shelves to carry the weight of the books?


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## bb71 (Jan 23, 2010)

mics_54 said:


> no dados or side cleats are needed if there is a wall cleat and a face front.


I think he's suggesting the shelves would be supported by the wall cleat and could also be fastened through the face frame.

When I suggested cleats I actually wasn't thinking of the shelves being removable. I was thinking of fastening the shelves through the cleats (from bottom or top).


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## bb71 (Jan 23, 2010)

djonesax said:


> When I have made bookcases in the past I have dado’d and glued everything even the shelves. With cleats the shelves are free floating and can me removed. I was treating each shelf as part of the structure but I suppose I don’t really need to do that as long as the frame is strong. I’m not planning on putting a back on it so I guess dados and glue would still be a good idea.


 
I agree - how much time are you really saving by not doing the dados? Build it to last!! :thumbsup:


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

I built a tall kitchen pantry, and pocket screwed the shelves in. The front of the shelves are tongue and grooved into the face frame. It is super strong. We have loaded up the shelves with 2 liter soda bottles with no problems at all. If the front weren't tongue and grooved to the face frame, I wouldnt trust all of that weight on the shelves.
Nick


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