# Bathroom Floor Remodel.



## Devon7234 (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi all,

Got a project coming up. There are presently multiple layers of linoleum over a suspected wooden subfloor in my bathroom. It needs replacing so I'm going to go with tile due to cost. 
The tile portion of the project is not a concern. The floor is incredibly uneven. I am aware that tile needs cement board underneath of it. There is a bathtub, a sink, a toilet, and a water heater. 
Questions:
1. If I rip up the linoleum, old floors, and subfloor and then replace it with fresh 3/4 plywood and cement board then tile, and the sewer pipe and wax ring stick up an additional 2 or 3 inches from the floor, how does one go about ensuring a proper fit?
2. The radiator has two pipes coming out of the floor and 4 points of contact, (four supporting feet.) Again, if I redo everything and note there is a margin of space between where the "old" setup existed and the "new setup" exists, how do I go about fixing this? Maybe box it up a bit to compensate? 
3. Besides a four foot level and working slow and accurately, how do I ensure I get a very level and accurate sub floor? I am aware that leveling compounds exist. I would much rather use them as a last resort. 

Pictures:


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Be careful removing the lino and its adhesive because it could possibly contain asbestos. Its easy to take samples to a lab for testing (I usually pay around $25 per sample). If you want to do that, first find the lab you'll use, then ask them for advice on how they want you to take and package the sample.

You can turn any level into a longer one by routing a groove in one edge of a straight board.

Once you get the subfloor up, you'll have to decide if the wall and floor framing are solid, or will they deflect when the bath fills with water and the family all crowds into the room at once? If they move at all, is it too much for your goal of a solid level tile surface?

Wish I had more answers for the other questions.

Could be fun! Especially that first hot soak after you put all the tools away.


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## Improv (Aug 13, 2008)

How old is your house? If it was build after the mid-80s, asbestos shouldn't be an issue. (I think roughly '84 asbestos was banned <insert disclaimers here> )

Is this a ground floor bathroom on a concrete slab? Or is it on stringers? Kind of makes a difference how you tackle the next question ...

Also, when you say 'uneven' are you talking about a waviness to the floor? Or does it have a decided slant to the whole room? On a slab, the thinset should be able to take up the waviness on a slab (start at the high point and keep a 3-tile levelness using extra thinset where needed). On stringers, you'll want to try and shim/shave the stringers prior to putting the subfloor down.

Regarding your water radiator, I would look into a short run of flex pipe to adjust to whatever new height the radiator comes out at.

Best of luck,
Steve


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## Jackfre (Dec 23, 2009)

*Whoever built my old house*

Either did not own or certainly did not know the function of a square or a level. On any project I would start by exposing joists, studs and rafters. Once you get it open, you need to extablish the height you want to build to. A level is perfectly adequate, but a laser level will speed things along. If you Are unable to bring the closet flange down I guess that will be reference height. You can rip proper sizes to go on top of your existing joists, glue and screw them down. You may, due to irregularity want to make the joist higher, snap a chalk line at proper elevation and cut it in place. Over the last few years I re-did all my bathrooms. I did the 3/4" ply, 1/2" Uponor Quik -Trak for the 5/16" radiant tubing, 1/4" cement board and then my tile. Warm bathroom floors are nice and you can eliminate the radiator. While you are at it, do plumb up your walls. It really makes things easier setting the shower base and plUmbing up the doors.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

*I actually work in the asbestos removal industry.....*

Asbestos manufactured products stopped in 1978, but they were still around into the 80's from overstock. They weren's supposed to be installed anymore, but there were companies that didn't want ot lose all that money by throwing their overstock out.

That being said, if you house was built before 1980, then you most likely have some asbestos in your floor, if not the tile, the adhesive that glued the tile down. The proper way to dispose of it is to hire a licensed asbestos abatement company to come in and remove it. I have heard (and officially don't condone :no: (disclaimer)) that some people would cut out the floor in 2' x 4' sections, while making sure to spray the dust with water (kind of like you would do when cutting concrete). Spraying the dust (in there eyes) wets down the dust and keeps it from getting airborne. You don't want that dust floating around in the air :no:.

After you have the floor removed, you could attempt to level the floor by shimming it on the joist. you could draw a level line all the way around if you dont have a laser level, and then measure all the way around and shim to the shortest measurement. I have used a piece of 1/2" clear rubber hose (about 20' long) that was mostly filled with water (with a little food coloring inside) and corked at both ends, to draw level lines when I need to throughout a room, but a bathroom is small enough to just draw a level line with a 4' level.

so now to answer your number questions:

1) There are a number of options that are available at Home depot. The local "expert" there can show you. This problem is quite common, and depending on how much you have to make up, there are different options.

2)While the flexible pipe would make it the easiest, some people don't want to mess with tearing into an old hot water system... 
I would temporarily "jimmy-rig" the radiator by suspending from to the wall with some heavy gauge wire or plumbers strap (galvenized strap with hole punched throughout). After your finish floor is in place, you could build up a nice base, and trim it with some baseboard.

3)I think I answered this question above.

Hope this helps


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## Devon7234 (Jan 6, 2011)

Did some inspection and planning today. Presently, there is 1 layer of blue linoleum sitting on 1 layer of old tan linoleum which is sitting on the suspected sub floor which is laying on the joists. 

I'm going to end up measuring again once I get all of the flooring ripped up. Assuming my joists are not water damaged or in dire need of replacement, just sagging; I plan on sistering additional joists with a glue and screw method to attain a nice level flat surface. This seems to be the best method, especially for the center of the joists. 

Hopefully the joists don't need replacing as a $1200 ceiling was installed under the room less than 5 months ago.... 

Assuming my joist issue is solved and I have a nice flat even square plane to install a sub floor onto, what are my options for wood? Lowes has _Huber Advantech 23/32 x 4 x 8 T&G OSB_ for 23 bucks a sheet, and I only need two. However, _7/16 x 4 x 8 OSB Sheathing_ is also available for 7 dollars a sheet. Would it make a difference given that another layer of plywood (thickness to be determined) then 1/4' Hardie Backer is going to sit on top of it? 

My plan for the joists:


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## Bonniewright365 (Nov 14, 2011)

very nice!


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## slatron25 (Dec 18, 2007)

Use the advantech.


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## attackgirl (Jun 8, 2015)

What is your real concern the toilet flange and making sure you have space? If that is the real concern don't worry they make spacers and If I were you I would just go ahead and cut it off now and then do the work you need which is only ¾ plywood screwed down then mortar then hardie backer screwed down which also comes in different thicknesses but if your concern is level well do what you can but ultimately you have mortar which you can use to and will use to make sure you tile is level. Once everything is laid then go ahead and put a new flange on. Which is supposed to sit on top of the tile. Then you won't have to worry about your sub flooring rotting away or leaking or even using a flange spacer. So cut it off and go to work!!! Good Luck


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