# Acrylic or Wood?



## VaureyWWC (Feb 21, 2011)

So I've made dozens of pens. All have been lower end $20-50. But I'm looking at making a few higher end rollerball pens and fountain pens. I've never used acrylics for turning, so does anyone with experience know what I should do to make it look best?


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I'm a woodworker, if I wanted plastic pens I'd just buy them :blink:. All kidding aside, I can't stand working with acrylics. They stink when cutting, drilling turning, sanding. The few I've tried have cracked when drilling or blew up on the lathe. Make sure your tools are super sharp and take your time. Or do like me and stick to wood.:yes:


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## VaureyWWC (Feb 21, 2011)

Yeah! I'd rather stick with wood lol! I can picture acrylic smelling just as good as bone or antler!


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## wildwood (Jan 25, 2011)

I have no problem making acrylic pens. I do back out more often clearing chips when drilling, sharp bits and not over heating your drill bits helps a lot. 

Finishing simpler, I start wet sanding and end wet polishing with micromesh.
I do use Hut Ultra Gloss plastic polish, folks like the PSI version of the stuff too. Never used Brasso but some folks use it.


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## Whaler (Mar 9, 2011)

I do both wood and acrylic and like doing both. Acrylic is a very broad term as there are many different formulas. In my experience the cheap acrylic blanks are just that, brittle and stink.
I would suggest that you take a look at the blanks from www.exoticblanks.com they don't sell any junk. Another great acrylic is this series from Bear Tooth Woods http://www.beartoothwoods.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_120

I sand my acrylics to 400 and then buff them on the Beale wheel system. I used to use the MM pads and PlastX polish but the buffing is faster and better in my opinion.


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## wildwood (Jan 25, 2011)

You can pay a lot for custom made acrylic blanks by some artist. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as to how much want to pay for custom blanks. Some really unique and others not so much. 

Size is important, if kit requires 5/8” blanks don’t need to buy ¾” unless want too. 

Most major suppliers have the same colors and some have more variety than others do all give quantity discounts. Most let you mix colors from same group of acrylic for a discount. Names of same colors will vary from one supplier to the next.


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## JTTHECLOCKMAN (Dec 31, 2011)

First let me post a couple photos














































Now the reason I posted the photos is to make a point. When you are talking the different materials such as wood VS Acrylics you are talking 2 very different animals. With wood you get basic colors and that is brown and various versions of the color. You can get exotics such as ebony and bloodwood and holly and change the look abit. You can get into burls or spalted woods which to me is the way to go when doing woods. You can get into segmenting woods. What I am getting after is people love color. People gravitate to color more than plain wood. Thus the use of acrylics open a whole new world because of the vast array of colored blanks. Yes some acrylics stink when turned but when doing wood you need to apply a sturdy finish and for most the finish of choice is CA which stinks too. Trade off if you ask me.

I have shown a few examples of Truestone as a material which is a combination of acrylics and stone. I also shown a custom cast blank with the copper braiding. You can expand this line any way you see fit. 

Look at the highend pens sold by the big boys and you will not see wood as often. Mostly plastic and metals. Metals is another medium you can use that can produce great blanks and great looking pens. They can be worked on a wood lathe with wood tools as well. 

I probably did not answer your question because there is not right or wrong. With the right material any pen can look great in its own way. I prefer acrylics if a gun was held to my head because of the colors. Good luck.


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## VaureyWWC (Feb 21, 2011)

Actually yes, you did answer my question in a way. I actually picked up some ebony yesterday for some blanks. I may look at some of the tru-stones.

Thanks everyone! I'll hopefully post results when the time comes.


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## Evilfrog (Aug 2, 2011)

JTTHECLOCKMAN said:


> Now the reason I posted the photos is to make a point. When you are talking the different materials such as wood VS Acrylics you are talking 2 very different animals. With wood you get basic colors and that is brown and various versions of the color. You can get exotics such as ebony and bloodwood and holly and change the look abit. You can get into burls or spalted woods which to me is the way to go when doing woods. You can get into segmenting woods. What I am getting after is people love color. People gravitate to color more than plain wood. Thus the use of acrylics open a whole new world because of the vast array of colored blanks. Yes some acrylics stink when turned but when doing wood you need to apply a sturdy finish and for most the finish of choice is CA which stinks too. Trade off if you ask me.


I can also get dyed wood. But your point is a strong one. People like color. If you are looking to sell your wares, then the customer is right. I believe many wood workers tend to enjoy wooden pens more, because we appreciate the subtle variations in grain, color that make each pen unique. Woodworkers also are able to recognize and appreciate the skill that goes into a well crafted pen. 

Not to say customers don't want a well crafted unique wooden pen, they just don't have the eye. Most will still get the well crafted part, but they get that with acrylic pens too. They see color, then feel. 

This is true with a lot of products. Not just pens.

I haven't trued the tru-stones. Let me know how those come out!


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