# Headboard Plans (My first project)



## micahshaw (Aug 5, 2012)

So this is going to be my first real woodworking project. I am almost certainly over reaching, but heck, I can't fail if I don't try.

Anyhow, I really want a simple head board to keep my pillow on the bed, and I also want easier access to the plugs behind the bed. I would like it to look decent, and be made of reasonably affordable materials.

I whipped up a sketchup model of what I am thinking. It is mainly made of 1x6 wood, with a 2x4 on each post to help fasten the lag bolts onto the bed frame, and to put the junction boxes for the electrical into.

I do not know what to fill in the currently open area of the head board with. I am thinking something like beed board, but I would probably have to paint the whole thing to make it match. I am not opposed to this, especially if I can use cheaper wood as a result.

My major questions at this stage are:

1) joints. I think I will be getting a pocket hole jig to do all the edge to edge jointing. I am not entirely sure how I will attach the outside edges (the ones with the electrical on them). Is this reasonable?

2) Do I even have the correct dimensions for the boards? (ya, I am a real noob here, I think 1x6 boards are available, and I think they are actually 0.5x5.5....)

3) what kind of wood should I use? I am not real picky here, just something affordable that will look decent. It can be painted if needed. Also, were do I get the wood? will it be at lowes?

4) what bone headed things am I not even considering?

I am still in the planning/learning stage here, any guidance?

Micah


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

micahshaw said:


> I do not know what to fill in the currently open area of the head board with. I am thinking something like beed board, but I would probably have to paint the whole thing to make it match. I am not opposed to this, especially if I can use cheaper wood as a result.
> 
> My major questions at this stage are:
> 
> ...


Happy to see a project for a newcomer where there is little structural load. This makes it a lot easier for you.

I am not sure what is on the sides. Is this a switch and two sets of outlets?

If so, consider just inlaying power strips which include a switch. Less work no wiring and potentially more outlets.

For the vertical members, you can just use edge of one board to face of the other and glue.

For the vertical to horizontal, you can use pocket screws. If this were my project I would use dowels. I have done this in many projects. Same to attach the top.

"1x" wood is 3/4in thick not 1/2in.

I do not know what you mean by "bead board". Many options of various panelling to fill the spaces. You can even install tile or mount pictures. 

A separate thread today was about resin from using fir or pine.

The easiest wood to use would be poplar. Available in the big box stores in your dimensions. If being painted, then the mix of light or dark area in the wood should not be a problem.

I would not lag this into the bed especially if the lags are going into end grain in the bed.

This is a more robust solution.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=40445&cat=3,40842,41269&ap=1


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## micahshaw (Aug 5, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> Happy to see a project for a newcomer where there is little structural load. This makes it a lot easier for you.
> 
> I am not sure what is on the sides. Is this a switch and two sets of outlets?
> 
> If so, consider just inlaying power strips which include a switch. Less work no wiring and potentially more outlets.


There isn't really any load. I could actually cut off the bottom foot or so, as this will be attached to a metal frame. But there will be torquing force when the top of the frame is pushed or pulled. I didn't want a half inch (or 3/4 inch) board being the only thing holding the headboard. 

Yes, there is a switch and 4 outlets on each side. Only the bottom outlet will be switched. I have some bedside lights that a great except for when I have to fumble around for the on/off switch located about a foot and a half down the cord. In general I just want an easy to hit switch with a fixed location. I should be able to easily switch this with my eyes closed. The other 3 outlets are for my clock, phone charging, and 1 open for a computer, ereader, etc, that we occasionally plug in.

As far as wiring, it should be fairly simple. Wiring up a switch is something I am interested in learning anyhow, so this is an easy project (easy to access all the boxes and run all the wires) to learn that on. 



Dave Paine said:


> For the vertical members, you can just use edge of one board to face of the other and glue.


Good to hear, that was kind of my plan, but I thought I might need additional fasteners.



Dave Paine said:


> For the vertical to horizontal, you can use pocket screws. If this were my project I would use dowels. I have done this in many projects. Same to attach the top.


Interesting, I might be able to track down a dowel jig...



Dave Paine said:


> "1x" wood is 3/4in thick not 1/2in.


uh-oh! back to the drawing board to make some adjustments!



Dave Paine said:


> I do not know what you mean by "bead board". Many options of various panelling to fill the spaces. You can even install tile or mount pictures.
> 
> A separate thread today was about resin from using fir or pine.
> 
> ...


I do love those fasteners, they remind me of ikea furniture. As I said tho, this is just attached to a metal frame. I am not actually going to use lag bolts (my bad), but a nut and bolt with washer.

Here is some "bead board" (basically the paneling you referred to as well): http://www.homedepot.com/buy/lumber...ge-installed-coverage-53640.html#.UCBTPvZlSJk

micah


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

This thread may also be useful for you to review. Discussion on joining boards.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/joining-1x8-1x10-planes-41489/

Also a link for a cheap dowel jig and for dowel pins needed to align the holes in the adjacent board.

I did not state, but the dowels would need to be glued.

The glue I normally use is one of the "yellow" glues, also called PVA glues.

Many good brands. I happen to use Titebond III, but any of the Titebonds or other brands would work.

You will like the low/no odor and water cleanup of the PVA glues.

In a tight fitting joints, the glue once set is stronger than the wood.

My rule of thumb is to use a dowel which is 1/3rd the thickness of the wood. You can go a little thicker, just need to get the dowel in the middle of the board.

I recommend buying dowels. They are not expensive, are pre-cut and will have grooves milled in which allow for the glue to spread along the length of the hole, very important.


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

What tools do you have for construction? That will make a lot of difference in how you can joint the wood for assembly. How do you plan to get power to the outlets?


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## darkwolf29a (Aug 2, 2012)

This looks like a really cool plan, actually. I can see, if you add a cord to the mix...you'll be all set. 

It appears to be rather straightforward. I wonder if I can talk my wife into something similiar.


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## micahshaw (Aug 5, 2012)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> What tools do you have for construction? That will make a lot of difference in how you can joint the wood for assembly. How do you plan to get power to the outlets?


The bed will be plugged into an outlet. A power cord can be gotten at the hardware store. I will use standard in-wall wiring to actually wire the outlets and switch. I don't have details on this, as I have never done it before, but it is not complicated. Electrical really isn't all that difficult, its just very costly if you make a mistake! I'll need to make sure I have all the right wires, and keep all the connections properly secured in the junction boxes, and staple all the wires to the frame with the correct wire staples. 

As far as tools, I have a circular saw, a jig saw, a router, a broken drill (which I will replace), a pair of saw horses, and a car port. I am also borrowing a miter saw. Hopefully the humidity changes wont ruin the whole project. I also have 2 inexpensive F clamps. I may need a few more of these, but I think I can get this project done with minimal tool investments.


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## micahshaw (Aug 5, 2012)

Alright, I updated my plans with the correct board thickness. I think I will be using a dowel jig to joint the horizontal cross pieces, and the vertical separator in the middle. I also changed the corner joint on the legs. I have a router, but I am not sure if I can accurately cut the joint without a router table. Am I getting in over my head with that joint? Will I need a router table?


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## micahshaw (Aug 5, 2012)

*Done.*

Well, I finished the project. (See pictures)

Overall I would call it a great success. It turned out better than I had expected. I did, of course, have a number of technique issues that came up. The dowel joints did not turn out as tight as I had hoped. They are mostly pretty good, and only someone looking closely for craftsmanship will notice. I think the two issues that caused this was first, slight variations in the length of the boards. Under 1/16 of an inch, but enough that I don't think everything was exactly square. But more frustrating was that the dowel jointer didn't joint everything exactly flush. The jig I used was one I borrowed from my mother-in-law, and was cheap. It had 2 parts, one clamp and one clamp with holes for drilling. When I would have to move the hole jig, only one clamp was holding the pieces, and there was a small amount of shifting. Again, very small, but enough to feel the joint as a raised edge. I need to rig up a third clamp next time I used it.

Another technique issue I had trouble with was the whole gluing up stage. I had to buy a lot more clamps to get everything tight. This included 2 bar clamps the could clamp the entire 60" span of the bed. When I dry fit everything it worked well, but then when I glued it up, I used to much force, and ended up pulling one of the end pieces out of the plane. The other gluing issue I had was cleanup! I never did find a good way to clean the glue. When I tried a wet paper towel immediately after clamping, I felt like I was just spreading the mess. But when I left it till it dried, it really didn't come off, even after sanding. There are some minor variations in the stain in the areas that had glue overruns.

I budgeted $400 for materials and tools, and came in at about $415. Sadly, I miss cut 1 board that I had to recut, which cost about $13, so I was pretty close on budget. Alot of the money went to buying clamps and new saw blades, which will be good for the next project too. (Of course, I will "need" a router table for that project....)

The electrical all went off without a hitch. Switch works well to switch the bottom plug only.

Thank you guys for the advice, and additional comments are appreciated.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

micahshaw said:


> Well, I finished the project. (See pictures)
> 
> Overall I would call it a great success. It turned out better than I had expected.


I am happy you finished the project, and that it does look very nice, but especially that you came back to post the pictures.

So many folks join the forum, ask I lot of questions, get a lot of good advise, and then we never hear from them again.

You may now appreciate that a wood worker can never have too many clamps. People do not appreciate the need for clamping until like you, they are at the glue phase and then realize they need clamps to hold the piece until the glue sets.

I know the feeling of mis-cutting a board. Measure twice, cut once, and then find it was the wrong cut. :furious: Happens to many of us.

The money in clamps is well spent, you will use them frequently.

Well done on the project. It does look good. :thumbsup:


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