# New old tool! RAS



## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

*New old tool! RAS !Pics UP!*

Hey guys a buddy of mine was cleaning out his dad's shop after he passed and he calls me and says "hey man I found some old saw in dads shop if you want it." I asked him how much. His reply "i would almost be willing to pay u 20 to take it." Well he is a friend so I told him I'd give 20 for it. He says "okay come and get it, bring ur lift gate truck it's heavy(I started getting excited here)". So I get there and what do I find? A circa 1969 craftsman 12" RAS. 

I spin the arbor and it spins freely. On the opposite end of motor is a working drill chuck also spins freely. I plug it in, hit the on switch and "prrrrr" to life she goes. 

I try to give my buddy more money for it cuz this is just a steal and he refuses. So long story short I got a 12" radial arm saw with drill chuck installed and with the metal stand, $20.

Pics to follow


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Nice, sounds like it's the same model I have. 3 hp? I've yet to bog that thing down, if it fits it cuts.

I strongly recommend getting either a 0 or negative hook angle blade for it. It's much safer and much easier to use.


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

firemedic said:


> Nice, sounds like it's the same model I have. 3 hp? I've yet to bog that thing down, if it fits it cuts.
> 
> I strongly recommend getting either a 0 or negative hook angle blade for it. It's much safer and much easier to use.


Im not sure how much choice ill have in blades, its a 5/8" arbor and so far ive only found one 12" 5/8" arbor blade from Forrest. But thanks for the tip medic.

Yup is a 3HP I was foolish and didnt check if it was wired for 110 or 220 before I turned it on but it appears to be 110 so I wont even have to add a 220 right away! But i proabably will soon anyway

Andrew


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Mine came out of a cabinet shop and I kept it at 220.

All you need is an arbor adapter. Looks like a washer and makes up the difference then you can use a lot more blades.

I have been extremely happy with the 12" neg 5 deg hook angle blades from Onsrud. Check eBay, they may have some left. They are an awesome bang / buck.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Duplicate post


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Andrew120 said:


> Im not sure how much choice ill have in blades, its a 5/8" arbor and so far ive only found one 12" 5/8" arbor blade from Forrest. But thanks for the tip medic.
> 
> Yup is a 3HP I was foolish and didnt check if it was wired for 110 or 220 before I turned it on but it appears to be 110 so I wont even have to add a 220 right away! But i proabably will soon anyway
> 
> Andrew


Forrest will custom drill any blade they make.


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

jigs-n-fixtures said:


> Forrest will custom drill any blade they make.


Awesome! I have two options now haha! Have you seen any alignment issues from using an arbor adapter medic? I've heard some horror stories but alot of people just blow things outta proportion(Or they dont know how to install things correctly).

Thanks both, 
Andrew


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

O the column is seized up with rust/dust preventing the arm from moving up and down. It appears the arm is stuck to the column where they meet at the top corner of L as well. So basically Ive got the Column, the Inner Column(idk if that is the right term), and the radial arm all stuck together like one giant L. Obviously im not gonna be able to soak this whole big thing in evapo rust...any ideas?

Andrew


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I just use 10" blades in my 12" saw(s)*

I a got a bunch O those 12" ers, but that $20.00 one is definitely a steal. :thumbsup:

After you get it freed up and work all the levers and lock with some lub then you can start on making a table.

Here's what I do. I ditched the angle brackets that allow for 1/2" adjustment to level it out. All you may need is a washer under one of the 4 bolts... if that.
Take a piece of plywood the size you would like to end up with, not the 3 separate pieces that are usually supplied. Take a straight 1 x 3, lay it on the top making certain the blade will completely disappear in the full rear rest position and square to the blade and arm at 90 degrees. A 12" blade may need a thicker fence piece, but that's all I use for a 10" blade. How often will you need the 12" crosscut capacity? Me never.

You will probably have other questions......:huh:


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Thanks for the info woodnthings. Im still stuck with a radial arm and column right now tho. Cant get them to separate. Really dont wanna buy 5 gallons of evapo rust just to submerge this thing...ugh..any ideas guys?


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Step 1: Spray the area with PB Blaster or equivalent, wait a day or so, then try to wiggle or carefully tap things to see if they break loose. If not, repeat Step 1. Be patient.

Nice deal on a nice RAS! I agree with what Firemedic said about a negative tooth angle blade. I use a Freud LU91R on my 10" Craftsman and it works great. Check Amazon.com: Freud LU91R012 12-Inch 72 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Sliding Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement 

Onsrud is good, too, if you can find one on eBay.

Bill


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Andrew120 said:


> Awesome! I have two options now haha! Have you seen any alignment issues from using an arbor adapter medic? I've heard some horror stories but alot of people just blow things outta proportion(Or they dont know how to install things correctly).
> 
> Thanks both,
> Andrew


No, I've never had any problems with the adapter. It's just there to make up space and keep the blade centered on the arbor, the truth is the blade is sandwiched between two much larger (we'll call em) washers preventing wobble. I have a full kerf blade and that may help a bit too. 

I did have to tune the adapter with very fine sand paper to remove a few burs.


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## vinnypatternmaker (Mar 27, 2011)

Hi!
Firemedic is on to something here :thumbsup:! 
He often has helpful ideas :yes:!
Best,
Marena and Vinny


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Thanks fire medic and i will start the pb blaster regiment tonight.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

liquid wrench will also work on loosening parts that don't want to move. after rehabbing a neglected 70s vintage unisaw, i learned to always have a can of it close at hand for stubborn items.


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Well i may have to try something diff. I've always kept pb blaster on hand but after 5 treatments and almost 24 hours since my first attempt thing still won't budge.

Not sure what ill try next


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Do you have any better pictures of the problem area? Do you have the manual with schematic? You may want to dismantle it, at least partially, for refurb/rust removal. Taking the motor and carraige would be a good start so you can get at the arm and column without worry of damaging.


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

I have removed the motor and carriage I also took the column support tube off the table. So I have the column support, the column, and the radial arm all stuck together. None will separate from the others I will take a pic when I get home in about 3 hours.

o and yes I have the manual, been dismantling it and cleaning it piece by piece.

Andrew


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Okay I got the column base off










But the column is still firmly stuck to the arm. Column won't spin and won't move with slight persuasion from the dead blow.





















Any advice? Just gonna keep tryin til I hear back from y'all. Thanks


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*What about the release lever?*

You need to pull back on the lever to release the arm so it will pivot on the column. If the lever has become disconnected it won't work. 
Rather than a twisting motion to break it free ...if the lever and the connecting rod is working, give the end of the column a sharp blow with block and a 3 # hammer. That should release any rust that's accumulated. Don't beat on it....:laughing:

The round knob locks the release lever so be sure to unscrew that all the way also. There's probably a diagram online at www.searspartsdirect. com I donno?
You will need the model number. I have a manual somewhere if I can put my hands on it I'll look up the column mechanism.

The model numbers I can see on my saws are 113. 29510 and 113.29511. What is yours?

Here's the parts diagram:http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...247/0744500?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11329510

parts no. 15 rod and no. 14 pin is what your are trying to determine if they are working.


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

I unscrewed the knob all the way and tapped it. Still nothing. Idk I there anyway to ensure the lock is disengaging?
Mine is 113.29500


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Take off the knob and end cap then use a flashlight to look down the arm. You may be able to see if there is a part still engaging, but hopefully it will come out with the rod that the knob is attached to.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yeah...it will work....*

:laughing:
The chrome lever is the release..... the knob just keeps it from popping out. It's spring loaded in the locked position, so to release you overcome the spring and pull the chrome gizmo and hence the rod back toward you. :icon_smile:


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

K i took the front and knob completely off. Pulled the rod(which still had the pin attached) and then tried to get the column out of the arm top. Still wont go...i dont get it...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*what about the 2 bolts?*

Inside the column at the top are 2 bolts...I think>
if you just trying to swing the arm on the column, the release rod should allow that. 
If you are trying to remove the arm from the column, I think those bolts have to come off.
Parts 39, 40, 41, 42..... :blink:


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

removed the two bolts under the miter indicator if those are the ones


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

K the bolts inside the column tube that attach it to the radial arm were the first things i removed so its not them, but thank you for checking the obvious things, those are sometimes the tricksters. 

Like I said earlier I took the front cap, knob,the shaft attached to the knob, AND the pin attched to the end of the shaft completely out so they arent the problem.

What the heck can possibly be holding this thing in there...


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

when i refurbished a 1966 10" c-man RAS, i had the same problem. but once i removed the latch arm shaft assembly with the arm lock pin at the end of it, the arm rotated stiffly at first, but a few sprays of liquid wrench and an overnight wait loosened everything up nicely. 

and if you think this is a PITA, just wait till you try to reinstall that locking pin on the end of the latch arm shaft so it sits correctly in the right groove in the arm latch. that took a while and was about the only trully frustrating operation i encountered. FWIW, i've never had good experience with those pb products. but liquid wrench has yet to let me down. good luck.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Got home to look at my documentation and I'm not seeing anything else. I'm now looking at what Bill mentioned in post #25 - parts 39, 40, 41, 42. Do you see anything like that under the arm on the shaft? I'm trying to remember, but those parts may actually be within the arm base. When you removed the two bolts inside the shaft did anything fall on the outside of the shaft/inside the arm? If not you may be able to persuade them with a screwdriver and hammer (lightly). If all else fails I'd give Liquid Wrench a try.

Toolguy is right, it can be a PITA to put back together. Keep your schematic and documentation handy. Threading the locking pin can be an exercise in frustration but it will be a great tool for your shop and you will OWN it! I have the little brother to yours, a 1969 10" RAS.

(Before getting a negative hook angle blade on it.)


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

If I can get it apart I will get it back together in one day no doubt but I just can't get it apart gah!!!!


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Parts 39-42 are within the arm not under on this model. On my 10" craftsman they are under it so interesting but irrelevant. They are lose and freely moving so they aren't the culprit : /. Still struggling gonna grab a few diff penetrating oils today if I get a chance


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Have you tried speaking to it sternly?


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Oh yes and I may have lost my temper at one point and spoken to it TOO sternly and tried to persuade it slightly TOO hard...no damage done but I was slightly ashamed


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Turn it upside down*

Turn it round column up over a baking pan or tub and flood the intersection between the column and the head of the arm with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster until it starts to drip out the bottom. A pressurized air blast would help from an air compressor or computer dust cleaner? Then if you can firmly hold the column in a vise or maybe put it back in the base try to turn the arm.

I firmly believe that it's just rusted stuck or seized rather than mechanically held by a fastener at this point. If you have to soak it overnight then fine. Another oil that penetrates is Kroil if you can find it. I also like Gibbs from Gibasize, and it's my favorite for all light lubrication tasks. Gun shops or sporting good dealers has it or search online.

One more trick is to "tap" on the side of the arm where the column is inserted, since the side ways vibrations set things in motion better. I don't mean "beat", just use a brass hammer and don't crack the casting. :no:


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## MagGeorge (Jul 5, 2012)

Now you have earned yourself biggie bragging points 
Great score!




_________________________________

www.sawblade.com


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Well Ty George but it ain't together yet. Right now all I have is a good motor and carriage assembly and a firmly stuck radial arm and column lol


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Well if all else fails break out the chemical warfare right? The whole arm is soaking in a custom tub of evapo rust consisting of some 2x12s and contractor trash bags. Should have some results tomorrow. At least I hope


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Guys im losing my mind here, I soaked the whole part where the column slides into the radial arm and pulled it out tonight and it was beautiful clean rust free metal and the dang thing still wont separate.

I started pouring over the manual for it i found online. Looking at Figure 43 on page 19 of the manual I CANNOT see what is holding this thing on. I managed to completely remove part 43 Latch, Arm without being able to take the arm off, I took both part # 44 bolts out. Pulled the front shaft parts 21, 13, AND 14 all with it, and it STILL wont budge.

The ONLY thing i can see that is left is part number 42 - Shoe, Brake. Im not sure what this part does exactly or where exactly in the assembly it is supposed to be. Im thinking under part 43 which is contained within the square end of the radial arm and I cant see it to remove it and I cant see how you COULD remove it without the arm being separated from the column. 

HELP!?! lol dunno what to do.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I know the frustration. BTDT. Be as patient as you can, stick with it but step away when you need to. I'm thinking there must still be some mechanical engagement and likely part #42. Are you testing movement in both the "around" as it would pivot, and the "up and off" directions? Wish I could help more. Any value in a picture down the top?


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> I know the frustration. BTDT. Be as patient as you can, stick with it but step away when you need to. I'm thinking there must still be some mechanical engagement and likely part #42. Are you testing movement in both the "around" as it would pivot, and the "up and off" directions? Wish I could help more. Any value in a picture down the top?


Hey Shop Dad appreciate the response, just need someone to bounce idea s off at this point it is driving me crazy. I did discover one thing, when tilted right evapo rust will sit in the little square bowl at the top of column/end of arm. Which is where it is stuck if it is somehow STILL stuck, so I have some evapo rust sitting in there now. If it is gunked up enough to hold liquid and the liquid not drip down the column AT ALL...well then maybe that is it.

As for part 42 I just dont see how it could have any mechanical hold, when i restored this saw's lil brother a while back it had a similar piece and it presented no mechanical joint. But I am worried about it since I cant see it of get to it, but if I cant see it or reach it in any way its not like I can remove it soooo haha.

Very stuck, very frustrated but I think I've done all I can right this second so im just gettin on here and venting, and reading about what other guys are doing lol.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Maybe it's time to try some heat. Get a propane torch, clean as much of the solvent off the parts as you can, take it to a well ventilated area and put the heat to it. Be patient, they are big parts and will take a while to get hot.

Once you get the arm good and hot where it surrounds the column, start tapping with the dead blow hammer (or brass hammer if you have one) to get things to budge.

Bill


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

That is just like the one my dad had (still has) in his garage on which I did some of my first woodworking. Pretty versatile machine but I don't really need one anymore. A good chop saw and table saw negates my need for a RAS.

Bret


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Bill thanks for the heat suggestion I might just have to try that. I'm not sure of the metal type of the radial arm. The column is plain old steel but I think the column Might be cast iron but my metal knowledge is slim at best. Would metal type change ur method at all?

Bret, Ty for your post but if I could afford a good table saw and mitre saw I wouldnt be so worried about getting this saw working as much as I am. This saw offers me an opportunity to really start working on being a successful woodworker. To put in some hours on learning the trade.

Andrew


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A few comments...*



Andrew120 said:


> Bill thanks for the heat suggestion I might just have to try that. I'm not sure of the metal type of the radial arm. The column is plain old steel but I think the column Might be cast iron but my metal knowledge is slim at best. Would metal type change ur method at all?
> 
> Bret, Ty for your post but if I could afford a good table saw and mitre saw I wouldnt be so worried about getting this saw working as much as I am. This saw offers me an opportunity to really start working on being a successful woodworker. To put in some hours on learning the trade.
> 
> Andrew


I would not use any heat...yet. There are a few ways to deal with a round bar/column stuck in a round hole.

!. First way is to upend the column, turn it upside down from normal, over a block or two leaving a gap for the column to slide down into. Then using a 3# hammer/mini sledge on a hardword block, smack the end of the column like you would when driving a nail. If it's not held mechanically and just rusted it will break loose.
2. Next is to hold the column vertically over 2 saw horses or tall stack of cement blocks and drive the column out of the arm from the top. You may need a round object to raise the striking surface over the top of the arm enough to hit it. A round wooden plug, a steel plate, any object that will uniformly distribute the striking force to the top of the column.
Finally, as I mentioned previously, by striking the side of the arm all the way around the intersection of the column with a brass hammer, hard enough to vibrate it loose, but not so hard as to crack the cast iron, that should help. Then try either of the above steps.

To the last comment you made, a RAS is a very useful machine within it's limitations. I have a 12" RAS set up at 90 degrees "permanently" for crosscutting only.

It will not be the "basis" for a woodworking shop, in spite of the way it was promoted in the '70' and 80's by the tool manufactures. A table saw is the best machine for RIPPING lumber or sheetgoods, and a RAS is the best machine for cross cutting long lengths of lumber to size or trimming the ends. Some folks here have great success using the RAS to miter and bevel frames and other lumber within it's cutting capacity. That requires the arm and head be precisely set to accomplish those tasks, either by using a digital or analog setup gauge or angle cube. IT can be done but requires some fiddling to get it just right. The detents/stops in the arm and head can be overridden if necessary to get the angles spot on, but ideally that should not be required. 

So, in other words, don't count on the RAS to be a one stop shop, do it all machine.....sorry. :no: JMO.

cube


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

I know it is not a high quality tool for everything, but it can get me started and I just need to get started on some projects.

I am saving for a unisaw ATM but those aren't exactly a dime a dozen. So until I can afford more quality tools this will work as a starting point I've done a lot with this saw's 10" brother and I feel like the RAS can at least help me do some straight lining of rough sawn lumber. That in itself is an improve over my current capabilities. 

Thank you for your comments. Are you sure the column is capable of sliding out the top when inverted? I have no problem trying it I just would hate to try and force it if there could be any damage caused by doing so


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

my vague recollection, when i stripped one for parts, is that the radial arm lifts off the steel column. the steel column does not slide through the arm.


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

That's how the one I did before this worked as well but I'm not sure i ever tried to take it thru the top either so :/


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the suggestions were how to loosen it*



Andrew120 said:


> That's how the one I did before this worked as well but I'm not sure i ever tried to take it thru the top either so :/


It may have some play when "wacked" upside down. It probably will come loose and then off when "wacked" from the top down and is supported off the ground. Best of luck on that bugger. :wallbash:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Andrew120 said:


> I know it is not a high quality tool for everything, but it can get me started and I just need to get started on some projects.
> 
> I am saving for a unisaw ATM but those aren't exactly a dime a dozen. So until I can afford more quality tools this will work as a starting point I've done a lot with this saw's 10" brother and I feel like the RAS can at least help me do some straight lining of rough sawn lumber. That in itself is an improve over my current capabilities.


If by "straight lining" you mean ripping, I wouldn't recommend it. You might say that you have ripped on a RAS before, and feel confident. The saw does have that capability, but, it's likely one of the most dangerous procedures you can do in a shop.










 







.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

How's the rusty RAS coming along, Andrew?

Bill


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

Not well. Soaked it some more and it still isn't free. We have some family in town ATM so I haven't gotten to deal with it yet. Gonna swing by and grab some different penetrating oil to try tonight. I've used pb blaster, new wd40 rust formula, and a citrus based solvent. None had any promising effects.

And suggestions on a different pene oil?

Oh and I also tried some heat with no success but I'm gonna try again tonight with some new pene oil


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Andrew120 said:


> Not well. Soaked it some more and it still isn't free. We have some family in town ATM so I haven't gotten to deal with it yet. Gonna swing by and grab some different penetrating oil to try tonight. I've used pb blaster, new wd40 rust formula, and a citrus based solvent. None had any promising effects.
> 
> And suggestions on a different pene oil?
> 
> Oh and I also tried some heat with no success but I'm gonna try again tonight with some new pene oil


Sorry to read you are not having much success.

I have had good luck with Liquid Wrench, although my pieces may not have been as rusted as yours. Not expensive to try.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Andrew120 said:


> And suggestions on a different pene oil?



ATF/Acetone, 50/50 is a good rust buster.

I have both ras (Red Star 30A) and chop saw (Delta 10") and the chop saw doesn't get used, unless I need to move it to the house to cut trim.
The ras can do more than a chop saw. IMHO


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

SUCCESS!!!! She is apart! After heating it so long i thought it would explode and soaked in in pene oil and I literally pulled with all my 370 lbs of weight while my father in law slammed on it with a dead blow and it FINALY broke loose! 

Such a sense of accomplishment right now! Woohoo. 











Andrew


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*So was it just rust?*

If so, that amazing.  Well, you have some work to do now. Take some pix along the way for a "restore" thread. :yes:


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

WooHoo!! :clap:

That's hilarious, I'm picturing the two of you going at it with "greater than iron" will! :laughing:

Glad you finally got it off. Gave you a good story to tell. I'm with Woodnthings...what was it?


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

It was nothing my rust and maybe slight mushrooming at the very top of the column


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Glad you finally got that bad boy apart. My next suggestion was going to be an automotive machine shop with a hydraulic press. 

Bill


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

dodgeboy77 said:


> Glad you finally got that bad boy apart. My next suggestion was going to be an automotive machine shop with a hydraulic press.
> 
> Bill


Haha I was considering it!


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## Woodbore (Nov 22, 2012)

*Congratulations on the 12” RAS.*

Congratulations on the 12” RAS. 
Few notes. I’ve used a 12” Craftsman (1973 model 113.23301), for 39 years. Good saw. Read about blade hook etc. at 
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/technical-info/saw-blades.html
Number 3 at above will give you a good start.
http://www.amanatool.com/articles/selecting-sawblades.html
Not pushing any brand – just use the right blade! Using the wrong blade means trouble and that is why the RAS has received so many complaints. Unsafe setups are another problem, especially when ripping.
I have modified my RAS many times over for safety and convenience. I us a homemade spring board with 4 wheels for ripping and hold down tensioners. Set up your saw square both to the fence and table, plus get it parallel to the table top across to full arm swing. I used a bolt and nut between the frame and the bottom of the table as levelers before locking down the metal angles. Set blade heel for cross cuts and recheck for rips. Set correct you will get glass smooth square cuts. I built a fixture using 2 dial indicators for set blade square and heel. I built a complete new blade guard with rear discharge w/ multi deflector plates, so I get almost dust free cuts using a vacuum. and no sawdust flying out the front to the left. Dumbest factory design I ever seen. I use the rear fence or a custom build front fence for ripping up to 49 ½” wide on the length of plywood w/o losing my guide edge or having my hands near the blade while fighting a full sheet of ply. I still have to go to a hand held to cross cut for more than 16.75”. I can then recut as a rip if it’s less than 49.5” I use a 12” digital readout to set rip widths. Built a slide-on stop and fine adjustment for the arm, with a dial indicator to stop the carriage at given point for cross cuts or to set rip width. Be sure you remove the 3/8” guide rods from the arm and clean the back sides good. Wipe the back with some poly to seal out moisture before reinstalling them. Fine dust will settle in behind them. Check the width of them several places along the arm. Shim if needed with Foil. On top of the carriage you will see it is open. That area gets saw dust and rusts the plate that sets your swivel stop for cross cut to rips. Clean it and plate it with a nickel flash if possible or just grease it good. Then go to a sign store and ask for a piece of scrap or drop from the vinyl tape they use to make letters. You need about 6x6” Put it over the top of the carriage between the guide wheels to seal out the dust and moisture.
Build yourself a miter jig for miters at 45 – I us a 7” Diablo 760 blade ( $20 on amz) thin rim HiATB 60 tooth with stabilizer for miters. The miters are air tight get (forget) I believe, 1 5/8 depth with stabilizers. Most miters are ¾” material. The blade is cheaper than a 12” at 100 bucks and does a great job. It has become my go to cross cut blade because it so cheap and cuts excellent. I couldn’t find a good rip blade so I am cheating death and using a Freud LM74 RO12 Glue line rip blade with 40 TCG teeth and a 12 degree positive hook. I do not use it for thin stock and I use tensioners on the top with a push stick. Eats right thru 3/4" oak and a very smooth cut. Guess I’m a little over the top on precision and safety but you get that way as an old jet engine mechanic and machinist. Never cut anything off or broken anything though. – Good luck and enjoy the RAS.
P.S. Forgot to say “Kroil” is the best thing in the world for frozen bolts – rate it 10. We used it on jet engine exhaust bolts – the only thing that worked. Liquid wrench is the worst, blaster rates a 7.
Posted the only photo I have of the saw.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Welcome to the forum Woodbore! Sounds like you have lots of info to share from your experience. Be sure to post an introduction so folks can say hello.

As far as blades, many of us have been very happy with the Onsrud blades they are clearing out on ebay. Here are a couple of the 12" but there are also 10" as well. Very inexpensive and high quality.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-MTR-...252?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337df4b90c
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-MTR-...741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abec0bb0d


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## Andrew120 (Jun 30, 2012)

I actually bought a -7 hook onsrud from eBay about a week ago at firemedic's recomendation


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