# Chemically Resistant Finish



## dodobird (Apr 13, 2012)

Hello,

I'm building a spraybooth for hobby modelling purposes, and I'm trying to choose a finish that is more resistant to the solvents found in the model paints.

The paints that I use have solvents that range from alcohol (tamiya) to lacquer based (alclad ii). I'll avoid spraying the paints directly on the wood, but mishaps may occur. I've also designed the spraybooth so that it has a small area in front of it so I can work on my models.





The wood used is baltic birch plywood and pine. I don't plan on using stains, as I want to keep the light shade of the birch (i.e. non-yellowing). I'd also want a glossy finish.

Would you guys have any suggestions on which finish would be best?
Would a water-based polyurethane be resistant enough?

Thanks in advance!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You don't need chemical resistant, what you need is spray booth peal off paint. It is a coating that when you get a build up of overspray on the booth you can just peal it off in sheets.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

dodobird said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm building a spraybooth for hobby modelling purposes, and I'm trying to choose a finish that is more resistant to the solvents found in the model paints.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure i understand your meaning of spraybooth in this instance, i see no way from the pics where you can "exhaust" the fumes or airborne paint particulates? Are you showing the box as it will be used to spray in? 

Any spray work, even with an airbrush or spray can will accumulate in a non vented box and settle and attach to the wood if your spray work is directed into it, no matter how careful you are as to not let it happen. Plus the bounceback of the fumes will be coming back out and directed at you to a larger degree than if vented. you may want to consider some redesigning before worrying about the protective coating.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*me either, however*

I think it's just a "overspray container" rather than a true exhausting spray booth. The peal off coating sounds interesting Steve. My first thought was to line it with aluminum or stainless steel panels and then you can wipe them down with any solvent to keep them clean. A HPL like Formica may work also?  bill


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> I think it's just a "overspray container" rather than a true exhausting spray booth. The peal off coating sounds interesting Steve. My first thought was to line it with aluminum or stainless steel panels and then you can wipe them down with any solvent to keep them clean. A HPL like Formica may work also?  bill


Tnx bill, i don't see the point but i guess if it's only being used on occasion:icon_rolleyes:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Pieces of cardboard cut to fit can be thrown away when they need to be. No cleaning needed.











 







.


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## dodobird (Apr 13, 2012)

It's not completed yet. I still need to build the legs, attach the lighting/electrical switches and a few other things.

For the exhaust, I will be cutting a hole at the bottom where the fan and ducting will be installed. A furnace filter would sit in the middle and catch some of particles as they're sucked up by the fan.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

dodobird said:


> It's not completed yet. I still need to build the legs, attach the lighting/electrical switches and a few other things.
> 
> For the exhaust, I will be cutting a hole at the bottom where the fan and ducting will be installed. A furnace filter would sit in the middle and catch some of particles as they're sucked up by the fan.


Good to hear, then follow wood&things advice, mica would be my suggestion alsnly i would add applying a coat of vasaline to act somewhat as a cheap booth coating as Steve is suggesting.that wil help in it sticking to the formica [HPL]and will wipe off easily,.


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## dodobird (Apr 13, 2012)

Thanks for the tips guys!


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