# Crown, Vaulted ceiling Odd Corner how do i finish?



## brad4g63

I have vaulted cielings in my great room and flat cieling in my kitchen i just put crown in both but i have an odd corner where there is three pieces of crown meet together and i am not sure how to remedy. view pictures to see what i am talking about. the kitchen is a flat cieling, the great room is vaulted if i run a continuous piece into the kitchen there will be a gap in the great room crown at the cieling of about 1-2 inches at the corner. right now i have the kitchen and the one of the great room runs returned at the ends to at the farthest extent possible. looking for ideas of how to procede. i was thinking of doing a block in this corner but i don't want it to define the two different rooms and i don't have a block any where else in the rooms.


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## Steve Neul

The only way I see to make that look normal is to put a column there where the different ceilings meet and just die the molding into the column.


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## brad4g63

Steve Neul said:


> The only way I see to make that look normal is to put a column there where the different ceilings meet and just die the molding into the column.


are you talking about a floor to ceiling column to separate the two rooms? like a 4 inch deep faux column to separate the two spaces and have the two pieces of crown run into that? I think that could work but the i believe that part of the ceiling overhangs the great room carpet and not the kitchen hardwood so that would trade a ceiling oddity for a floor one. i will have to check when i get home tonight to be sure.

What about a flint block or Key any ideas on that?


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## cabinetman

That's a tough intersection. It may be the easiest and cleanest arrangement to merge the mouldings. As in the picture below, continue "B" to "A" and finish the run, if you are going past that.

Trim "D's" bottom edge to fit the horizontal edge, and fit to "C".

Cope it to fit "B/A". If you aren't going into the "A" area from "B", make a small pendant.
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## Steve Neul

brad4g63 said:


> are you talking about a floor to ceiling column to separate the two rooms? like a 4 inch deep faux column to separate the two spaces and have the two pieces of crown run into that? I think that could work but the i believe that part of the ceiling overhangs the great room carpet and not the kitchen hardwood so that would trade a ceiling oddity for a floor one. i will have to check when i get home tonight to be sure.
> 
> What about a flint block or Key any ideas on that?


 Yes I did mean a floor to ceiling column but looking at the pictures again I think a short length of wall like this would be better as long as you didn't try to wrap the crown all the way around like this one. It looks like you need 10" to 12" of fill to reach the crown molding going up the ceiling. 

I'm not familar with the term flint block. If its something like a crown molding corner block it would have to be a pretty big one. I'm not sure that would look right.


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## Sawdustguy

Maybe there would be some help on this website. This guy is good and has lots of crown molding challenges explained.

http://compoundmiter.com/

I have his book and it has helped figure out a future crown molding challenge.

George


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## Sawdustguy

You say you do not want to define the two rooms, the difference in the ceiling type and floor covering already defines the two rooms. My suggestion would be to build a stub wall from the kitchen ceiling down to the height of a archway. That would give you 16" and the crown in the great room could then continue on to the wall. On the kitchen side you would then complete the crown around the room. The grate on the wall to the extreme right in the first picture may present a challenge doing what I suggest but is solvable. 

I do not believe there is any other way to solve the challenge you have now.

George


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## woodnthings

This is tough. I would continue the crown from B to A horizontally into the adjoining room. I would let the angle crown C to "die" in to the horizontal run where it would taper off. A mockup would allow you to see if that will work to your satisfaction.

A vertical post will just call attention to the issue and stop the eye at that point rather than allowing it to disappear visually. It may not be the ideal solution, but I doubt if there is one. Any time an acute angle is part of the design it's an automatic eye stopper, but in this case adding to the issue won't really help....JMO.


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## cabinetman

woodnthings said:


> This is tough. I would continue the crown from B to A horizontally into the adjoining room. I would let the angle crown C to "die" in to the horizontal run where it would taper off. A mockup would allow you to see if that will work to your satisfaction.


How is that different than post #4?








 







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## Sawdustguy

woodnthings said:


> This is tough. I would continue the crown from B to A horizontally into the adjoining room. I would let the angle crown C to "die" in to the horizontal run where it would taper off. A mockup would allow you to see if that will work to your satisfaction.
> 
> A vertical post will just call attention to the issue and stop the eye at that point rather than allowing it to disappear visually. It may not be the ideal solution, but I doubt if there is one. Any time an acute angle is part of the design it's an automatic eye stopper, but in this case adding to the issue won't really help....JMO.


If you continue piece C to meet piece B extended to point A the back side of piece C will be exposed with no wall behind it on the kitchen side. How would that be dealt with?

Perhaps I am missing something but I have installed many challenging pieces of crown molding and I see no way to make this work other than perhaps what I suggested in post #7.


George


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## cabinetman

George G said:


> If you continue piece C to meet piece B extended to point A the back side of piece C will be exposed with no wall behind it on the kitchen side. How would that be dealt with?
> George


As I suggested in post #4...*Trim "D's" bottom edge to fit the horizontal edge, and fit to "C". Cope it to fit "B/A".*



















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## Sawdustguy

cabinetman said:


> As I suggested in post #4...*Trim "D's" bottom edge to fit the horizontal edge, and fit to "C". Cope it to fit "B/A".*
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Guess I am missing something. Won't you loose the part of D that rests against the wall if you trim it to the horizontal? Also it wouldn't it come to a point and would not need coping, it would just disappear.

George


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## cabinetman

George G said:


> Guess I am missing something. Won't you loose the part of D that rests against the wall if you trim it to the horizontal?
> Yes.
> 
> Also it wouldn't it come to a point and would not need coping, it would just disappear.
> More than likely.




















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## brad4g63

George G said:


> You say you do not want to define the two rooms, the difference in the ceiling type and floor covering already defines the two rooms. My suggestion would be to build a stub wall from the kitchen ceiling down to the height of a archway. That would give you 16" and the crown in the great room could then continue on to the wall. On the kitchen side you would then complete the crown around the room. The grate on the wall to the extreme right in the first picture may present a challenge doing what I suggest but is solvable.
> 
> I do not believe there is any other way to solve the challenge you have now.
> 
> George


Sry my terminology is a bit outdated i was talking about a corner block, what i meant by not trying to define the two rooms was a want to keep the open concept as open as possible and biulding a sophet to support the crown going across would be a little more than i am looking for at this point.


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## brad4g63

George G said:


> If you continue piece C to meet piece B extended to point A the back side of piece C will be exposed with no wall behind it on the kitchen side. How would that be dealt with?
> 
> Perhaps I am missing something but I have installed many challenging pieces of crown molding and I see no way to make this work other than perhaps what I suggested in post #7.
> 
> 
> George


 
I think i am going to taper run c along the horizontal edge into the corner, just curious baout how to make this taper. i know i am going to use a table saw for the main taper but if the run followed the same line as the rest of run c you could look strait up and see the back of the crown in that corner any ideas on how to make this piece.


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## cabinetman

brad4g63 said:


> I think i am going to taper run c along the horizontal edge into the corner, just curious baout how to make this taper. i know i am going to use a table saw for the main taper but if the run followed the same line as the rest of run c you could look strait up and see the back of the crown in that corner any ideas on how to make this piece.


I would fit "B/A" first, and then fit "D" to "C". Then draw a line on the back side along the horizontal edge. Cut to fit. Caulk or spackle the bottom edge.


















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## brad4g63

just another question what about the gap between run a and the ceiling?


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## cabinetman

brad4g63 said:


> just another question what about the gap between run a and the ceiling?


Hard to tell what gap from looking at a picture. You will have to do some fitments to see.








 







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## woodnthings

*it's the white area in the photo*

The slanted ceiling rises above and away from the top of the crown which projects from the wall leaving the dreaded "gap". 

Maybe I'll reconsider my objection to a plith block to stop all the moldings and allow for a new start in the adjoining room.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&va=plinth+block

Or:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...tff1-tyc-inbox&va=crown+moulding+terminations

http://thejoyofmoldings.com/three-ways-to-terminate-a-crown-molding/


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## cabinetman

brad4g63 said:


> just another question what about the gap between run a and the ceiling?


I would make a *pendant* to fit that will intersect the merging of the mouldings. It can be made to fit up to the ceiling at "A", so that run will have no gap.
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## Sawdustguy

Cabinetman has proposed some creative solutions however it seems they are posing additional challenges. The use of one pendent block will look somewhat odd to to me. I believe the best solution is what I proposed in post #7. It is additional work but I believe will produce the best looking final product. It is your home so you should do what is acceptable for the effort you want to expend. Personally I would want the best appearing and most professional looking final product.

George


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## brad4g63

Thank you for the help i used the pendant idea to provide a landing for all three runs of crown to dissolve into. Looks pretty good. I will post a few pics once painted. For the top run i Ripped the piece of crown to follow the bottom straight edge of the kitchen ceiling filled the gap at the bottom with a mirror Rip of moulding. The moulding tapers to the corner yet maintains the lines of the trim all the way to the corner. looks much better than a flat piece of wood or a pound of spackling to fill the gap.


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## RepairmanJack

Personally, I'd go another direction entirely. Put a fake beam, or faux rafter edge against the vaulted part and you'd have something to end your crown against. 

Another choice that might give you better options would be to use a smaller width of crown, then you'd have much less "problem" to solve. 

I read an article several years ago about crowing a greatroom. The solution was a pretty complicated-looking cut where the crown "wrapped" around the angle. hard to describe, and I doubt it would work here anyway


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## TemeculaPaul

Take C and run it into the corner, connecting to A like a regular inside corner would connect. On the backside of that joint, fill it in the triangle flush with some mdf. Then, have B butt right into the back of that piece, making sure the bottoms of the two crowns line up. This looks pretty good... It's a hard one I've done several different ways, but I think that looks best.


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## Sinistersix

Reviving this thread, I have the exact same ceiling, how did you finish this off?


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## Advocate512

*Bump again*

This is literally the only post about this type of corner. I have it too. Does anyone have a picture of a good solution?


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## Chelette

brad4g63 said:


> Thank you for the help i used the pendant idea to provide a landing for all three runs of crown to dissolve into. Looks pretty good. I will post a few pics once painted. For the top run i Ripped the piece of crown to follow the bottom straight edge of the kitchen ceiling filled the gap at the bottom with a mirror Rip of moulding. The moulding tapers to the corner yet maintains the lines of the trim all the way to the corner. looks much better than a flat piece of wood or a pound of spackling to fill the gap.


Bumping again. Can you post pictures with the pendant if possible? My house is just finishing up and there are 2 spots like this.


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## Bob Bengal

Chelette said:


> Bumping again. Can you post pictures with the pendant if possible? My house is just finishing up and there are 2 spots like this.


Welcome to the forum Chelette.

This thread started 8 years ago. If you don't get a quick answer it's best to start a fresh thread with questions and photos of your situation.


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## Biotec

the OP has not been around since 2013.




also if you search youtube for crown molding you will see a lot of ideas beyond what has been posted above


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## TimPa

Chelette said:


> Bumping again. Can you post pictures with the pendant if possible? My house is just finishing up and there are 2 spots like this.


post #20 has a photo.








it is routed to suit the style of the house/trim. it can be as simple as a block of wood. it basically serves as providing a vertical and square face to land the end of the crown into. rather than trying to mate it up to another piece of crown that is coming in at different angles and in diffferent planes.


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