# First Woodworking Project: A Workbench



## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

I am new to woodworking and my first project is a workbench. I know, it will be ugly and uneven. Got it.

I just glued together 12 2" x 6" x 5' Douglas Fir boards to make a sort of butcher block work surface. The boards are not all quite the same length, so I need to get a circular saw to trim the ends. It's way too large and heavy to cut on my portable table saw. I'll have to get a handsaw as well, because I don't think the circular saw I get will cut quite halfway through.

It's pretty ugly so far, covered on both sides with lumps of glue. Should I use a hand plane to get the glue off and even out the surface out a bit?

I'm thinking I may lay it flat on concrete and build a frame around it to glide my router on top of to flatten out the sides.

I've never used my router before, so I'm not sure what kind of bit to get for something like that.

I am going to frame the whole surface with a 4x4 all around.

Below are pictures some of the monstrosity so far.

I was pretty sloppy with the glue and had to chisel and sand my claps afterword to get them to slide open and shut smoothly again. How do people avoid getting glue on their clamps?

My wife thinks it will be beautiful, but I have my doubts. I know I should have used hardwood, but I'm trying to keep costs down. On the next bench I build I'll probably go for higher quality. If I have to, in the end I'll throw a piece of plywood over the top, but it would be nice if I could get a smooth result without doing that. I don't need it to be pretty, necessarily, but I want it to do the job.

I'd like to put castor wheels on at least two of the legs. Is that a bad idea? What kind should I use? What do you think is the minimum weight bearing capacity I might need?

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can give me!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Douglas fir is kind of soft for a work bench top. Your right a circular saw won't quite cut half way through but you could finish the job with a hand saw. When you glue wood together like that I would recommend cleaning the glue off with a wet rag. It would be easier to work if it was clean. The rounded edges on the 2x4's are going to give you a lot of trouble leveling the top. My first choice would be to have someone run the plank through a planer and surface it to about 3" thick. That would level the top and do away with the rounded edges. Another option if you have a belt sander would be to grind the top down with a 40 grit belt. It works best to sand cross grain running the sander from side to side keeping the sander moving until you almost get it level and then turn the sander with the grain. 

As far as the construction on the rest of the table you might use 4x4's for the legs and use 2x4's for the horizontal parts.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Thanks. I was going to use 4x4s for the legs and 2x6s for the apron, but 2x4s makes more sense.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Congratulation to you John because you did what I recommend all new woodworkers to do... build yourself a workbench. I recommend you keep building shop items for a few more projects because they don't need to be perfect. They only need to be functional. Shop projects are a great learning tool when it comes to woodworking. Lets get down to business now...

You now have an uneven work surface. This could have been avoided if you had cut the rounded edges off 1 side of the 2X6 prior to gluing them together (I made the same mistake 30 years ago). You could have done this on you portable ts. As Steve suggests, you now need to flatten your surface. But rather then using a belt sander, I would use a router with a router sled (google it or search it on this very site). The sled can give you a very smooth and even surface. Yes belt sanders can also solve the problem, but I would choose the router sled. Another way is to use hand planes (preferably a Jack plane for your needs).

One thing you need to know about woodworking is that there are multiple avenues to solving particular issues. We wood workers get on our particular horses and sit high. Learn to try different options and find which way suits you the best. Its' OK if you don't like my method...

Once you get your workbench reasonably flat - do consider adding another top surface (plywood - hardboard - laminate - etc.). All these surface offer you a true flat work surface. Whatever surface you do chose (if you add this extra surface), screw down this surface onto your workbench. Don't use glue. Countersink the screws so the screws don't protrude and scratch the surface of your future builds.

When all is said and done... you will learn about clamping options. Again... don't jump onto the 1st options. You will learn about square and round dog wholes... and then there will be the t-track option (I'm extremely fond of this one). Research your options and choose which one suits you the best.

You are a member of what I consider to be the best woodworking forum on the net (I belong to about ten). Don't be afraid to ask questions here or any other site you might join. Woodworking forums are a great learning tool to all aspiring woodworkers. I'm a self taught woodworker who has been learning for about 35 years and I have learned more (still learning) from these forums then any other source.

Keep an open mind to any and all responses. Another tool at your disposal is your cut-offs. Once you trim your existing work surface, don't throw out the waste... Can you use them to learn? I use lots of my cut-offs to practice my joinery. I'm still using my cut offs to learn more after 35 years... just learned to make hand cut dovetails (perfectly).


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## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

Get a roll of wax paper (for future projects) and put it between your clamps and the wood to deal with the glue on the clamps issue. I like the planer thought, but when I called a guy to price the option for my bench, he wasn't going to do it without cleaning the glue off first. It's really hard on the blades. If you get it clean and close, have it put through an industrial sander. Make sure you ask them how wide they can handle before lugging the thing down there. Hate to see you get a hernia for nothing


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

one other option you might consider is the old school way ... Hand planes.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

You can actually remove a lot of material pretty fast with them

Sent from my SM-T310 using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

If you don't get excessive glue on the clamps it usually pops off with fingernail pressure. 

As for flattening... normally I'd side with Chris on the hand plane front, but with that much glue you'll not be sure if it is your planing technique or sharpening technique that is lacking as it'll give you lots of trouble. Building a router sled might be a better idea, otherwise you'll be spending a lot on sandpaper.

When I do a glue up, after 30 minutes or so I go back through and remove the glue squeeze out while it is still soft with a putty knife, chisel plane, or my least favorite can't-hold-an-edge chisel. Don't remove more than a few clamps at a time and then replace them before removing more and nothing will move.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

"Congratulation to you John because you did what I recommend all new woodworkers to do... build yourself a workbench."

Thanks, encouragement is good to hear. The guy behind me at Home Depot asked me what my project was, and when I told him it was my first woodworking project - a workbench, he actually laughed in my face and told me it was going to be really uneven. That may be true, but it will be a learning process and I will use for many projects and as I get better I will probably want to make a better one, but for now this one will be just fine.

I also want to make a few wheeled shop carts.

My wife's father just passed away and she received all his medals from WWII, Vietnam, and the Korean War, and she asked me to make a display case for them, so I really want to get a little experience so I can do a good job on it. Although she says she will love it no matter what it looks like, and I know she means it.

Yes, I will use the router sled, I like that option best, thanks for the advice. I don't have a belt sander and I doubt my ability to get it even that way. But building a router sled and a frame to slide it on? That I think I can do. I will have to read up on it and watch a few videos to answer a few questions, such as what type of router bit to use. I bought a router, but I still have never used it. Another project I am eager to get started on is a simple router table, but that will have to wait.

"Multiple avenues to solving particular issues..." Yes, and I'm just the guy to overthink, make it extra complicated and create extra work for myself. Lucky for me there are woodworking forums!

Initially, at least, I won't cover the work surface. I want to see how it looks and how well - or not so well - it works. I can always add hardwood surface later, if necessary. Why do you say don't use glue? To be able to change it out if it get banged up over time?

I read about bench dogs, and intend to make them, though I'm not clear on what the pros and cons are of round vs. square bench dogs.

Thanks for taking the time to give all this information and advice!


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Johnny - Yes, you figured why a top shouldn't be glued because you will damage the surface and you will want to replace it. 

Square vs round... it doesn't matter much except for aesthetics. Myself... I use t-tracks. I installed them a few years ago and will never go back to dog holes (round or square). I can do so much more with t-tracks.

Sounds like you've got yourself a special lady - a keeper. They're worth their weight in gold. I got lucky 38years ago and she still loves me.

Don't bother with the HD guy. You're going to learn without him. Search this site for router sleds - I've seen some very good ones here on WWT. If it doesn't work for you, do consider hand planes. Chris has already chimed in here on your bench and he can make his hand planes sing songs. He's a very helpful guy (I've even forgiven him for being from MD...).

You're on the right track here on your build - don't be shy - ask questions...


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

I just looked up the T-tracks. They look great. I already have so much stuff to get, so I'm trying to keep costs down. So my first bench will have bench dogs.

38 years, that's really great. Yes, they are worth their weight in gold.

I have no confidence in myself to plane something flat. Not yet, anyway. I like the idea that I can build a frame and a router sled and rely on that to make it flat.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Thanks. I think when I learn to plane, though, I want to start out with smaller projects. I think if try to plane that thing, I will just keep trying to even it out and overcompensating until there is nothing left, heh. 

Is there a particular type of plane I would want for that job, though?


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

The last third of this thread speaks on how you can level and make the top look great (will eliminate the gaps from the rounded edges):

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/cl-workbench-vise-score-rehab-62082/


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

johnnyrelentless said:


> Thanks. I think when I learn to plane, though, I want to start out with smaller projects. I think if try to plane that thing, I will just keep trying to even it out and overcompensating until there is nothing left, heh.
> 
> Is there a particular type of plane I would want for that job, though?


You would start with a scrub plane. It has a curved iron that can remove alot of wood per pass. People have made them from a cheapo Harbor Freight plane.

Then the process usually calls for going to a jointer or a jack plane ... they start to smooth out the surface.

Finally you would use a smoothing plane.

I like this approach because for me, woodworking is a hobby. I don't have the space or money for all that expensive machinery. Plus, I don't want to have to wear ear, eye, and lung protection; that really takes away from the enjoyment of pursuing this hobby for me.

Here is a good series worth watching:

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLD39949332C7FB168


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## BaldEagle2012 (Jan 25, 2012)

Congratulations on the first project choice. As you have noticed, you have a learning curve ahead of you. I will refrain from any suggestions as I see you have gotten more information then I can give. Welcome to the forum and don't forget to post pics of finished projects.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Actually, I already watched that series. He makes it look easy. Thanks for the link, though, I will watch it again. I have very little room as well.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Well, I cut the ends off of what will be the top of the workbench, but one end came out uneven. Not sure yet how to fix it. The circular saw just didn't want to follow the line. The other end came out pretty good, though. I already tried cutting another bit off the end, but got a similar, crooked result.

I cut them off with a circular saw that didn't have the reach to cut through all the way, so I hand sawed the rest. I was worried about that, because I have awful memories of struggling with a hand saw as a kid, but it went really well today! I guess using a sharp saw, bought just a few hours ago really makes a difference.

Tomorrow I will even out the surfaces with a router sled.


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

johnnyrelentless said:


> Tomorrow I will even out the surfaces with a router sled.


Keep us updated with build pics. Looks like it'll will look sharp when you're done. Joints look pretty tight overall.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

You must be a big boy to be hefting that bench around...:smile: Keep in mind the basics of a good bench - needs to be solid and surface needs to be flat. You're well on your way


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Whoah. that is one seriously thick bench top!

I am, to say the least, very interested to see how this comes out!


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## Chad Holst (Mar 11, 2014)

Johnny,

I am also new here (a couple months). 

My first project was also a bench, like most of us. 

I am very happy with how my bench turned out...heres what I used. (may answer some of your questions)

I used 2x4's for the "frame" of the bench. you can draw up fancy plans and all that, but in the end...just start with what you KNOW you will need. For instance, i took out a tape measure and walked around measuring how tall other items and shelves/counters were until i found what seemed comfortable to me for a height. I then subtracted 4" for the Casters and also the the thickness of my top and that became my height for the 4 corners. I then cut 8 2x4's to that length. 
(2 for each corner put together in a "L" for the corner)

Once you have those corners, its just a simple task of measuring off them and the dimensions of the top. 

You will want an over hang on the top, for clamps and such.

You can use casters, but put them on all 4 corners and get 2 of them that lock. Harbor freight has them cheap and they worked great on my bench.

I wouldnt get to carried away with shelves and drawers and such on this bench. Keep it simple. Consentrate on getting the frame done and the top flat and mounted. Everything else will come off of that.

I simply used a sheet of 3/4 inch ply about 8" off the ground, as a "shelf". but really this helped square everything up and make it very solid. I used a solid maple door for the top, as it was a dent and ding from Menards for $5.00. Since you already have the top glued up, use that...but i would REALLY reccomend using the router sled or even better, find a local woodworker that you can pay a few bucks to run it through the planer. You can mess up a 100 things on the bench and still fix it...but the top needs to be flat.


For your "simple" router table... i would do the same thing as the bench, except the top. Get some Hard board, its cheap, and use that for the top. Make a "mini" bench to match your work bench...then drop your router into that. You will be replacing both of these benches in the next *** anyway, as your skills become better and you learn what you like and dont like on a bench.

Like I said, im very new to all this also, and have only made...maybe 25 pieces so far, but i already am starting to see what works for me and doesnt work for me.

(DONT make your bench too high, that was the first lesson i learned building mine, im 6'3 and its still OK for me to use...but my friends and kids have a hard time with it)


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## Firefighter4Cy (Apr 9, 2014)

Keep us posted as to how this is coming along. I'm interested in seeing how this is finished. It looks great so far.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

that has got to be the thickest bench top ever made!


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Ok, so this is my setup so far. I made a router sled and I'm using a 2x6 clamped to each side as a guide. I checked with a level, and it seems to be pretty straight.

This will be my first time using a router.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

that looks pretty good, but thinking about what will happen when the router gets to the edges, it looks like it will chew up the guides pretty good. maybe that is preferable because it would help reduce tearout.

i would also be tempted to raise it up a little and put a clamp in the middle


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Yes, I figure the guides are sacrificial. I could probably rip the into 2x4s afterwards any way.

I thought about putting a clamp in the middle, but decided that, instead of leaving it on the ground, I would just put the legs together and rest it on top of that while I work. Probably easier on my back that way. I suppose I could still clamp the middle, and just move it a bit when I reach the middle.


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

So? Post router sled results photos?


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## shourah (Feb 2, 2014)

nice works, im bookmarking it


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Well I routed both sides of my slab of wood for the top. It is perfectly level in all directions. It may not look level in the picture if you look at the carpenter's level, but that's because the concrete isn't level. But the concrete and the workbench top are showing the exact same degree of unleveledness. Ooh, I made up a word!

I am going to redo the legs, because I didn't square all of them up properly. Good thing I didn't glue them yet! I pretty much just have to finish the legs and sand the top, then finish it.

I bought two castor wheels from Home Depot with the exact same part #, but one turned out to be a 5" wheel and the other a 5 1/4" wheel. Had to go back, and the employees at Home Depot were really surprised to see the same part number for two clearly different items, but they didn't seem at all interested in contacting the manufacturer about the mistake when I suggested it.

What should I finish the workbench with? It is a mix of Douglas Fir and Redwood (the legs).

I have some redwood 2x4s which I am probably going to put around the workbench top sort of like a frame to give it a bit more surface area.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Nice job and thanks for posting the results to your original question...


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Thanks for the router sled suggestion, Bernie, it worked perfectly, and it got me fired up to build a router table so I can use my router more!

Chris suggestion of using a hand plane has gotten me reading up on hand planing. I think I will get a hand plane or two and learn how to use them.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Sirlips, I used redwood 4x4s for the legs and I laminated douglas fir 2x6s together for the top.

One worry I do have is that the thick top won't allow for easy clamping, although I intend to put a border of 4x4s around the top. They're really 3.5x3.5 or something like that, so that's how thick the edges of the workbench will be, 3.5" or so.

I only used 2 castors, but I will add two more later, I've found it's a bit difficult to control when moving it with only two.

I'm not even thinking about drawers at this point, although later I'll probably drop a piece of plywood between the lower stretchers for a shelf.

I routed the top, and luckily it seems to be perfectly flat. I still have to mount it to the legs and hope I squared everything off properly!

I like the idea of a mini bench as a router table, but just to use some materials I have on hand, I am thinking of putting a piece of plywood on a hinge at the end of the bench as a sort of drop leaf. And I'll cut it to fit a router insert, and make a fence. Once I have that, I may work on a better, more permanent router table.

I keep thinking that this first workbench will be a lesson in what I do and don't like in a workbench, so eventually I'll probably make another. How do you like your first workbench?

I'm 6'1" and I made it 36". I doubt anyone else will use it much. My main concern is my own back. I can always lower it easier than raising it though, I think.

Thanks for all you advice, it's great to hear from someone else who is pretty new to it!


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

The legs are done and all squared up. After taking these pictures I added a wooden lip to the bottom stretchers so that later I can just add a piece of plywood as a shelf below.

The top is mounted onto the legs and it is flat and level. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow, if I get a chance.


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## Firefighter4Cy (Apr 9, 2014)

Looking good!


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Hi all. I've had to work all week as well as yesterday, so I haven't been able to do any more work on it until today. And even then only a short time until it started raining.

Well, the legs were a bit wider than my workbench top (oops!), but that's ok, because I planned to rip the boards I used as a guide when I routed the top into 2x5s and glue to the sides. This will give me about a 1 inch lip along the sides of the top. Then I am going to cut a lip along the ends of the workbench top so that there will be a 1 inch lip all around. I am doing this because I intend to cut a matching lip into some redwood 4x4s and put them around the top like a frame in order to make the work surface a bit bigger and to give the bench a bit more mass to absorb vibrations and blows.

I know I can just use butt joints for the 4x4s and maybe secure them with a large bolt through each end of the long boards into the end boards, but do you think I can use miter joints and large splines instead? Or would that be too weak for a workbench top, even given the fact that they'll be glued to and resting on a 1 inch lip?

Even though it's not done yet, I was able to use it for the first time today as an outfeed table (it's the perfect height) and to cut the boards to length with a circular saw. It worked perfectly, no wobble whatsoever, it was solid and it seemed to be the perfect working height for me. I attached a power strip to the left front leg, it was very convenient. I'm very proud of it so far. I've never been very handy and I didn't really think I would be this successful. If I can do it, anyone can.

You can see from the picture all the dried glue from my original, sloppy glue up job (oops!). Do I need to remove all that before I glue the last board to it? If so, what's the best way? Will my random orbital sander do the job?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Good for you Johnny. I too can't think of a better project to build when your getting started. It's plenty thick and won't need to be attached to the legs because it weighs so much. Many benches aren't. Just set it on a sturdy set that are joined to each other. Maybe some pegs to keep it in place.

Router and sled is a cake walk when you get it set up. It's an easy non aggressive cut for the router too.

Sand it and finish it. After a few years of use. You can hit it with the router sled again and it's good as new. I've hit mine once to bring it back in 25 years of use. You have enough thickness to do it several times without missing anything.

Buy the best vice you can. Good ones out last you. I didn't. I regret it. I'm replacing it.

It's going to look great when your finished and you will get many complements on it.

Post pictures for us to see and welcome to the club.

Al B Thayer

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

shourah said:


> nice works, im bookmarking it


shourah
Did you post a picture? All I see is a blank white square.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

johnnyrelentless said:


> Hi all. I've had to work all week as well as yesterday, so I haven't been able to do any more work on it until today. And even then only a short time until it started raining.
> 
> Well, the legs were a bit wider than my workbench top (oops!), but that's ok, because I planned to rip the boards I used as a guide when I routed the top into 2x5s and glue to the sides. This will give me about a 1 inch lip along the sides of the top. Then I am going to cut a lip along the ends of the workbench top so that there will be a 1 inch lip all around. I am doing this because I intend to cut a matching lip into some redwood 4x4s and put them around the top like a frame in order to make the work surface a bit bigger and to give the bench a bit more mass to absorb vibrations and blows.
> 
> ...


I guess my posts were late. Sorry. Best off if you use you routers sled to clean both sides of the bench top. If I read correctly your going to rebuild the base. Good because it doesn't have to be as wide as your top on the top. Also the bench doesn't need support in the middle. So just build two legs together on each end and attach a stringer between them on the bottom. 









Like this one. You don't have to use the same joints but at least do a lap joint for strength.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Thanks, Al. What kind of finish do you suggest? It will be kept outside, under a carport-type roof which is just outside my workshop. The 'workshop' is just a 5' x 6' shed. My table saw is in there and there is not really room for much else. That's why I put large castor wheels on the workbench, so I can move it out to a more open space when I need to and then store it again under the roof. When I have to rip long boards I take the table saw out, too. I will probably build something with wheels for that, too.

I did use the router sled on both sides, I figured that was the only way the top would be level once I mounted it.

I did redo the legs, just to square them up. I did something similar to your image, but I have stretchers on the bottom and top instead of in the middle. I will probably put a piece of plywood between the bottom stretchers to make a shelf with high sides.

I used 4x4s for the legs, and I thought about using half lap joints, but in the end I just screwed and glued the stretchers to them. Now I sort of wish I had tried it, it would have been a good learning experience.

The top is just screwed to strips of wood attached to the stretchers. I figured I'd keep it easy to remove. Because I will sometimes move the bench by lifting one end and using the wheels on the other end I thought I should at least screw it down.

I already bought a $20 vise and I'm rethinking whether or not to mount it. But vises are so expensive! For the price of a good vise I could buy a drill press or a bench sander (both of which I still need to get).

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement!


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Okay your right about the vice. Get the d press. Ask for the vice for your birthday. Point her in the right direction. 

If you leave it outside. Finish it and no matter what you finish it with your going to have to cover it with canvas. No finish your going to like or use will protect it from the sun and rain. Some are better but none are full proof. Most will tell you to use poly or spar varnish. I would finish it like its going to be inside and cover it. I'm not going to tell you what I would finish it with because you won't use it. I will say I never have found a reason to use poly. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

johnnyrelentless said:


> Thanks, Al. What kind of finish do you suggest? It will be kept outside, under a carport-type roof which is just outside my workshop. The 'workshop' is just a 5' x 6' shed. My table saw is in there and there is not really room for much else. That's why I put large castor wheels on the workbench, so I can move it out to a more open space when I need to and then store it again under the roof. When I have to rip long boards I take the table saw out, too. I will probably build something with wheels for that, too.
> 
> I did use the router sled on both sides, I figured that was the only way the top would be level once I mounted it.
> 
> ...


All you need is a stretcher on the bottom. The one on the top is like a bridge holding up a bridge. Just going to be in the way.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Hmmm, my birthday is in 2 days...

The bench is in a small place between the shed and the house, so there are walls on two sides and a fence on one side, so I guess it's not really like a carport. No rain gets to it at all, but I will take your advice anyway and cover it with a tarp.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

That's good to know. One thing I've discovered is it's hard to know when I'm overbuilding.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

johnnyrelentless said:


> That's good to know. One thing I've discovered is it's hard to know when I'm overbuilding.


I bet a bunch of guys here are envious of your bench. Never heard anyone complain about a bench to strong. But...

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I want to rebuild my bench now...mines not sturdy or well built...


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Here are a few other photos of the bench as I glued up two more boards to the sides. The top is made of 2x6s but these two boards were cut to 2x5s. This is so that there will be a lip to mount the 4x4s on, which will be like a frame surrounding the top, increasing its size a bit. I'm also going to cut a lip into the end of the top for the 4x4s. And of course cut an opposite lip into the 4x4s.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I think I have bench-envy.
There's one major glaring error in what you're doing =
You have to figure out how to triple the length of available slelving
on the walls near the bench. Rolling cabinets, you name it.

I didn't. My bench top is crude and 32" x 96."
Real work space is 16" x 36", 48" if the cat isn't there.
The sad part is that I use the stuff that's now stored on the bench.
Everywhere else is stuffed full, too.


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## [email protected] (Oct 5, 2013)

*Cool project!*

I like your project man! I think you're totally right about learning by trying. I was curious to ask you (or anyone else for that matter) what kind of finish (if any) you plan to use on your bench. I was told by my shop teacher in high school that you should put finish of some sort on every woodworking project. But that was 17 years ago, and I don't really remember what kind of finish would be good for a workbench. 

Most of the projects I've done called either for a food safe finish, or something else that's designed for indoors. I don't know what kind of finish would be good for this kind of project, but I'd love to get some input. Looks are less important to me than protection and durability.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Macallumjoe, I used Danish Oil on mine. No film to crack, some protection but easy enough to take a plane to the bench when needed, easy to touch up. I'd suppose wax would work well if you didn't worry about it being too slick; it'd be good for an outfeed table, but a slick top would drive you crazy when using planes.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Yes, I was thinking about making a pair of rolling carts the same height as the workbench with shelves underneath. I thought the rolling carts could also increase my work area when needed just by putting them alongside the workbench. I may use one of them as a router table, as well. Also, the area underneath the workbench will be one big shelf.

I work outside, so my cats can only stare at me sadly through the window.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Thanks! This is my first project and it's still not completed so I haven't yet ever had to finish anything so I'm probably not the guy to ask.

Many woodworkers seem to hate polyurethane because it gives kind of a 'plastic' look to the wood. But aesthetics aside, I think (and I may be wrong) it might be the best thing for an outdoor project at least as far as protection from the elements. So I am leaning toward polyurethane since mine will be outside.

Some finishes, like wax might not be good, as I understand it because it might make your work surface too slippery. Some (like polyurethane, I think), may chip if it takes a hard blow.

Some finishes have to be reapplied more often than others, I think, but I don't know which ones.

I don't think there is one right answer, it seems as though it's largely a matter of preference, which is why you'll probably get a lot of different answers on this.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Gilgaron said:


> Macallumjoe, I used Danish Oil on mine. No film to crack, some protection but easy enough to take a plane to the bench when needed, easy to touch up. I'd suppose wax would work well if you didn't worry about it being too slick; it'd be good for an outfeed table, but a slick top would drive you crazy when using planes.


What the deuce! That's exactly what I finish my benches with. It's perfect but I stopped sharing it due to the big poly crowd we have here. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> What the deuce! That's exactly what I finish my benches with. It's perfect but I stopped sharing it due to the big poly crowd we have here.
> 
> Al
> 
> Nails only hold themselves.


To be fair, I got the idea from Chris Schwarz's blue bench book. I liked the oil so well that I have used it on most of my projects since! The only poly product I have been using lately on anything is Arm R Seal.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I use shellac*

This photo show a 3/4" particle board "cover" I use on top of my Torsion box, to protect it. It has been used and abused many times over. I just scrape it down, get all the glue spots off, and float on a new coat of shellac and since it's self dissolving it blends right in a looks new again except for the dents and big scratches.
I don't know how well it will hold up outside ... :blink:


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## Sarge240 (Feb 8, 2013)

Good job on the bench. I completed mine after 5 months but I only used hand tools to build it, and had to start over on the top twice. One if the things I learned was that 2x6 is the worse to use because it is the most moist lumber out there. I switched to 4x4 in my 3rd attempt and it ended well. 

Learning through trial and error is simply awesome in my opinion. 

As far as it not being a hard wood, DF may be soft but it can take a beating and won't break your wallet. Here's mine:


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Wow, a really beautiful bench!

How did you not get discouraged by the second time having to redo the top? Glad you worked through it!


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Douglas Fir, having a lot of sap, absorbs finishes badly so there are splotches, I've read. Do you know if Danish oil would do the same?


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

johnnyrelentless said:


> Douglas Fir, having a lot of sap, absorbs finishes badly so there are splotches, I've read. Do you know if Danish oil would do the same?


 
I used Watco Danish Oil, Natural on southern yellow pine ( which also has a lot of sap ), and it worked fine.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> This photo show a 3/4" particle board "cover" I use on top of my Torsion box, to protect it. It has been used and abused many times over. I just scrape it down, get all the glue spots off, and float on a new coat of shellac and since it's self dissolving it blends right in a looks new again except for the dents and big scratches.
> I don't know how well it will hold up outside ... :blink:


I covered my T box with shellac too. I love that stuff.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Gilgaron said:


> To be fair, I got the idea from Chris Schwarz's blue bench book. I liked the oil so well that I have used it on most of my projects since! The only poly product I have been using lately on anything is Arm R Seal.


Me too. Hate poly and all that it is. I here good things about Arm R Seal. Haven't tried it because I usually don't send away for my finish material. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Here I have just routed a lip on the ends of the bench. I will mount the 4x4s all around the bench edge once I've cut an opposite lip into them.


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## Chad Holst (Mar 11, 2014)

What type of hitch are you going to put on the bench....to move it around with your truck? lol

That thing is going to be the mother of all heavy benches....and thats not a BAD thing. 

I would really consider casters on all 4 legs, not just the 2 you talked about earlier. HF has them for cheap, and they are very good quality still. I store shorter pieces of lumber under my bench and have alot of weight on the unit...the HF wheels work like butter and when locked the bench could house a heard of cattle and not move. Infact, i would bet that it would move around MORE with no wheels on it, sliding across the smotth garage floor than when i put the rubber wheels on it.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

I am thinking about adding 2 more wheels, it's a bit hard to control when I move it. But I may just pick up a metal pipe and add a shopping cart style handle for control and see how that goes. Although the handle will be discreetly under the edge of the bench top (once I've added the 4x4s all around that I intend to add). If it's still too difficult with the handle I'll add wheels later.


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## Sarge240 (Feb 8, 2013)

Looks good. That's gonna be a pain to drill dog holes.... That's if you intended to .

Looks like a beast. Great job this far!


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Yes, I do intend to drill dog holes. But I'm not sure if I should drill them all the way through so that they're not always filling up with sawdust or not. 

I intend to put a shelf below, so even if I drill them all they way through, any sawdust that falls in them will fall through to the shelf below, which might also be inconvenient. What do you think?

I do have a monster drill bit that will do the job, I think.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

If mine didn't go all the way through they'd be filled with stuck dogs... actually some day I'll try to get around to making enough dogs for all of them to prevent shavings from falling through, but it isn't too much trouble.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Drill them all the way through, sweep off the shelf every few months.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

Plunge rout the holes first as deep as your unit will get you and if you decide to go all the way through you have perfectly straight guide holes.

Jerry


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## Sarge240 (Feb 8, 2013)

Plunge routing is a good idea as it will set your drill bit in a straight path to begin with. You definitely have to go through the bench. If you don't you'll lose bench dogs because once they go in they'll sink and you'll never get em out. My bench top is roughly 3 3/4 thick, so if I ever got one stuck I could pop it through the other end.


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## Sarge240 (Feb 8, 2013)

Christopher schwarz wrote an article on the rules if making a workbench. I followed it to the T and don't regret it. You should read it, it is pretty awesome. 

Go to popular woodworking.com and search workbench rules


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

That's a great idea, Jerry, I will do that.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

I actually did read it, Sarge, and followed most of the advice. My bench has a lot of mass and the top is over 5" thick. The height is perfect for me.

I haven't finished it yet and I was considering polyurethane because it will be kept outdoors (though well out of the rain and direct sun), but after rereading this article I think I will just saturate it with Danish oil.

I do have an apron, but the top extends far enough out so that it shouldn't interfere with clamping.

What type of vise should I get? They seem so expensive for what they are, but I want to get one that I'll be happy with for years. I bought a cheap ($20) one, but now I don't want to install it. The problem is, much like the bench, I've never used a vise before, so I really have no idea what to look for.

Thanks for the link to the article. Think I'll print it out this time and use it to make some notes.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Different vises are good for different things. Here's my view, based on the ones I've used.

1) Standard face vise: all metal construction, possibly with a metal dog that can raise and lower. I used one of these for a long time. It was old, it racked like crazy, the thread was too fine so it took forever to crank, and it held anything I put in it with an unbelieveable grip. Newer ones (or higher quality old ones) are better. Mine didn't have the metal dog, and I'm glad, because using it would have made me nervous. The good metal face vises are pretty good, though you should really line them with wood (1/4" plywood works well) before you use them.

2) High end metal face vise with quick release: These are probably worth the premium. The one I used had acme threads, a quick release, an easily adjusted dog, and thick wooden plates on the inside of the jaws. I liked it a lot, and I'd have been perfectly happy putting one on my bench. I didn't, though.

3) Front vise with or without quick release. No jaws, just steel fittings. I only used one bench with one of these, and it was a demo at a woodworking show, probably at the Veritas booth. Very slick, very nice, very pricey.

4) Leg vise. This is what's on my bench. I paid $85 for a screw because I was in a hurry, and it's a beast. The vise opens 18", or pretty near, and it can easily hold anything I've thus far wanted to hold. My only complaint is that I made the chop out of pine, which makes it... less than totally rigid. I wouldn't hesitate to put one on another bench, although I might buy a cheaper screw.

I've never had a chance to use a real shoulder vise, and I'm considering putting one on my next bench.

Basically, you want to look for a good screw (I don't understand why anyone makes vises with non-acme screws), good support against racking, and a good way to clamp long boards vertically or horizontally, and large panels vertically or horizontally.


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## Sarge240 (Feb 8, 2013)

I use the lee valley face vise screw, made my own face for it, and got a wagon vise screw. I use this all the time when hand planing or chiseling. I've even carved a few mallet handles using the wagon vise and love it. You can drop a piece if stock in it and clamp it for sawing too.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

I wonder if one of the outdoor oil finishes might work well for your bench... Steve and Cabinetman have a few recommendations I've seen them mention in other threads. Penofin was one of them, I believe. It'd be a penetrating oil like Danish Oil but for outdoor use.

The extra thick top may make after-the-fact vice installation interesting... a leg vise might be a good choice for that reason alone.


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## jenfour6 (May 6, 2014)

Wow, you did a really good job! You might want to use some sand paper to scrub it down for any rough spots.


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## johnnyrelentless (Oct 23, 2013)

Well, I just mounted my cheapo vise. Later I'll get a better one. I cut some bench dog holes and put redwood inlays where the dog holes are. I haven't glued them in yet because I broke one of them when I accidentally hit the off switch on the router and when the bit slowed down it tore the inlay up. I'll have to wait until next weekend to fix it.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

johnnyrelentless said:


> Well, I just mounted my cheapo vise. Later I'll get a better one. I cut some bench dog holes and put redwood inlays where the dog holes are. I haven't glued them in yet because I broke one of them when I accidentally hit the off switch on the router and when the bit slowed down it tore the inlay up. I'll have to wait until next weekend to fix it.


Hey hey hey. You got it going.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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