# Beaded Face Frames aand Doors



## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

I am just starting some beaded face frames and doors for my upcoming home renovation.
I sure do hope my building permit app gets approved. It would be a real shame to have custom cabinets on hand with no kitchen to install them in. :blink:

I got a friend's shop to cut me up a bunch of poplar 7/8" thick, for the rails and stiles for the doors and frames.
Also picked up a Kreg router table and face frame jig.
The 1/4" bit that came with it gives a bead about 5/32", so I ordered the 5/16" size and that gives about a 1/4" bead. 

All the rails and stiles for the uppers and lowers are cut and routed. I screwed up one rail by beading both edges instead of one and one rail was warped so needs re-cut. Not bad for the amount of parts I have. It's a bit overwhelming after looking at them all. 
Pocket screw holes are also done and I screwed a couple of frames together.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

That is really nice, the beads look great.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

Everything you got looks great but...

When I do those sort of face frames I add the 3/8" bead after the frames get built. That is a great way to get rid of all the little skinny scraps that get left over when ripping the rest of the face frame or door material. So long as those scraps are 7/16" wide or bigger (already 3/4" thick) they are perfectly good for making bead with. 

If nailing the bead in place with one of those micro-pin nailers - There is no need to even try to putty the tiny hole left behind. You will not be able to see it anyway with inset doors and such... 3/4" micro-pins hold just fine until the glue dries. :yes:

Nice work you have there so far. :thumbsup:


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Everything you got looks great but...
> 
> When I do those sort of face frames I add the 3/8" bead after the frames get built. That is a great way to get rid of all the little skinny scraps that get left over when ripping the rest of the face frame or door material. So long as those scraps are 7/16" wide or bigger (already 3/4" thick) they are perfectly good for making bead with.
> 
> ...


Thanks.


My neighbor has a millwork shop and that's how he makes his beaded face frames.

With my limited resources, the Kreg system is quite simple and no need to make up the separate pieces.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> 
> My neighbor has a millwork shop and that's how he makes his beaded face frames.
> ...


I Kreg all my face frames as well. :thumbsup:

Again, You did very nice work and your joints looked flawless. :yes:


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

I got all the frames assembled and most of them sanded today. :thumbsup:


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

I finished sanding everything and got the 3 end panels glued and screwed.

I also got the pantry end panel all cut and test fitted. Just need to grab the 1/4" MDF inlay from the shop in the morning.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

A mock up door I made a while ago and painted different colors to see what I like. I changed the inlay trim. It will be the same as in the pics above.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

I'm really pleased with the Kreg beaded face frame system. After sanding, most of the the corners look really good. 
BTW, I am in no way affiliated with Kreg. :no:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Man that looks good, that is going to be some nice cabinets.


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## Travico (Dec 25, 2012)

That build is looking really SHARP! Thanks for the info.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Thanks Guys.

Stoopid time: 

I cut all the rails and stiles of the doors using shims to determine exact lengths. I figured since I don't have a table saw, why make them big and trim them later, right? We'll see how that genius idea worked out.....:huh:

Some of the rails were cut slightly short and I had to glue shims in place before clamping them up. 2nd pic shows the gap that needed shimming at the top right and bottom left. About 6 doors req'd these shims. Not bad I guess.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Some more pics of door pieces and gaps. They look pretty good with no glue or center panels.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Shims in place. I cut off some of the extra sticking out and slipped it in the back gap for equal sized shims.

Gluing them up with slightly out of square corners to match the face frames took way too long.
Good learning experience though.

Amazingly enough, the drawer faces which were all slightly different came out pretty good.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

I picked up some #5 screws but of course the heads were still too big for the hinges. Is there at least one company that can do this correctly? :blink: I haven't seen it yet. :no: It only took about an hour and a half to tap em with a countersink, so not too bad.

I made up a hinge locating jig and it worked pretty good.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

I got the first door screwed into the frame with decent results.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

A bunch of more drilling and screwing and almost all the doors in place.

I have a couple to trim only, so not too bad after all.

Hopefully I can cut the moldings for around the perimeter of the doors this weekend.

Thanks for following along.


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Looking awesome, can't wait to see it finished. The sample colors are what I'd like.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Black540i said:


> Looking awesome, can't wait to see it finished. The sample colors are what I'd like.


Thanks.
What do you mean about the colors? The ones I posted above?


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

123pugsy said:


> A bunch of more drilling and screwing and almost all the doors in place.
> 
> I have a couple to trim only, so not too bad after all.
> 
> ...


Inset doors are not always easy to get 'perfect'. Your work looked so nice and everything was so tight and perfect fitting that it took me a while to finally see and notice your shims that you used to make everything fit 'properly' and have the margins that you wanted. I would have cut new crossrails instead of messing with the shims but that is just personal preference and beside the point.

Your work looks awesome and I would bet money that it is all 'square' as can be... :thumbsup:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Beautiful work, what kind of catches are you going to use?


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

OnealWoodworking said:


> I would have cut new crossrails instead of messing with the shims but that is just personal preference and beside the point.
> 
> Your work looks awesome and I would bet money that it is all 'square' as can be... :thumbsup:


Thanks.

No choice about using the cross rails. I had to search off cuts to find the last piece of approx 7-1/2". I ordered my wood kind of exactly.:blink:


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

BigJim said:


> Beautiful work, what kind of catches are you going to use?


Thanks Jim.

I'm leaning towards rare earth magnets.

They will be temporary as I'm sure some king of soft close devise will be invented any day now. :huh:
Too bad there's nothing like that and I don't think there ever will be.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

These look fantastic, thanks for sharing.


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> What do you mean about the colors? The ones I posted above?


The colors you posted are the colors I'd like in my kitchen if I was to redo it. I really like all those.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Black540i said:


> The colors you posted are the colors I'd like in my kitchen if I was to redo it. I really like all those.


Thanks.

I'm thinking there may be too much blue to do all the cabinets. I'm thinking of cream color with glaze and one of the blues/greens for the island unit.

A cream color something like the pic.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Dovetails said:


> These look fantastic, thanks for sharing.


Thanks and you're welcome.

A lot more work than what I was thinking.
I was thinking these guys that do custom kitchen cabinets were over charging. I have a whole different view of this now.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Wow.

What a ton of work. I've spent the last month sanding, priming, sanding, puttying and caulking all the small gaps and dents.

I hit half the doors with the second primer coat yesterday. Still some slight gaps at many of the molding miters. I may just leave them, not sure.


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Very nice. Where did you get the hinges?


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

mengtian said:


> Very nice. Where did you get the hinges?


Thanks.

Got them from Lee Valley.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Hmmm.....missing a whole post somewhere.

Anyhow, I'll post the pics again.


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## mat 60 (Jul 9, 2012)

Great looking work. Thanks


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

These are looking fantastic. Is the molding for your doors a bolection molding? In other words, does it have a rabbet in the back of it so it steps down from the face of the stiles/railed down to the panel?


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

mat 60 said:


> Great looking work. Thanks



Thanks.




Masterjer said:


> These are looking fantastic. Is the molding for your doors a bolection molding? In other words, does it have a rabbet in the back of it so it steps down from the face of the stiles/railed down to the panel?


Thanks.
Never heard that term before.
That's what they are. They step down 1/2" for a deep looking recessed panel.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I always called that drop mold, it does make the doors look good. I have never heard it called that either. I see you numbered the doors, that is a good move, I have seen where fellows removed all the doors, didn't number them, and couldn't figure out where they went back. LOL

Are your hinges called no mortise hinges? I like that type of hinge.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Yep.

No mortise hinges. The easy way.:thumbsup:


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Still plugging away.

I got two coats of primer on all the face frames now. Hopefully start painting next weekend.

I hung the doors and taped the end panel onto the corner unit for a sneak preview.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Turning out real nice:yes::yes:. Patience is the key to beaded cabinets. Many of us won't take the time, but its a great look. My daughter was hitting me up on Pinterest designs for her cabinets. Your doors are similar to what I'll put on hers. Its the new look and your looks great:smile:


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Thanks Rebel.

Ya, it requires a lot of patience all right. I figured I'd be done by now.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

Those are looking fantastic. I really like the beaded FF look and the molding in the doors sends it over the top. Very nice job and thanks for sharing your progress.


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

I agree with everyone...they turned out very nice.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Masterjer said:


> Those are looking fantastic. I really like the beaded FF look and the molding in the doors sends it over the top. Very nice job and thanks for sharing your progress.


Thanks Masterjer.





cps said:


> I agree with everyone...they turned out very nice.


Thanks cps.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Not bad. Two weekends to get the cream colored paint down on everything. Color is Behr M300-1 but the paint is not Behr of course. It's a pre-cat lacquer.
One thick, wet coat was enough. :thumbsup:

I started screwing all the doors on this morning. Before I could screw the doors on, I had to patina the screws black to match the hinges.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

A few more pics.....


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Very very nice, they look great.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

Those are looking really great! Did you need to prime before spraying the lacquer? That's amazing that one coat was enough.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

BigJim said:


> Very very nice, they look great.


Thanks Jim.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Masterjer said:


> Those are looking really great! Did you need to prime before spraying the lacquer? That's amazing that one coat was enough.


Thank you Masterjer.

Two thick coats of high build pre-cat primer sanded with 280.

I then laid on a coat of paint thick enough for a slight peel while it was wet. It laid down flat when it dried. Except one door of course, which I had to sand and respray. :blush:

I used a 1.8 mm tip and the paint didn't require any thinning.
I have 3 gallons left over from the 5 gallon pail. :huh: DOH!


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Looks awesome! What brand of paint and primer did you use?


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Black540i said:


> Looks awesome! What brand of paint and primer did you use?


Thanks Black.

Chemcraft hi build pre-cat lacquer primer and Chemcraft pre-cat lacquer paint.

This is some serious stuff with the VOC's.
I used a paint suit, rubber gloves and also an outside air supply with full face mask.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Got a corner section screwed together.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Man, that does look nice, your wife is going to love them.


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

Where did you get the hinges?


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

BigJim said:


> Man, that does look nice, your wife is going to love them.


Thanks Jim.

Ha....she better like them or I'm up the river as I promised her that she would love them. I wouldn't let her sway my decisions on style and color. :no:

She's "helped" me in the past and results were not so great. :thumbdown:


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

cps said:


> Where did you get the hinges?


Lee Valley. $4 and change a pair.


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

123pugsy said:


> Lee Valley. $4 and change a pair.


Thanks for the info...I have a project I am working on that I need similar hinges.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Finally hit the end of the road for now.
Got the doors installed on the last two faces. Just need to wait a couple of weeks and then pack them away in 
storage for about a year or so while I build my house.
I'll be back to post pics after they are installed.
Hopefully, I can get the island done and post here as well before then.

Thanks for checking out my build.


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## Chireaux (Aug 10, 2011)

Very nicely done, I am looking to do the same as you did for a new house that we are building, hopefully it comes out half as good as your. I am going with basically the same face frames using the kreg beaded face frame jig, my doors will be similar, but will probably go with a shaker style. 
What width face frames did you go with? And what width were the rails and stiles of the doors and cabinets?
I am trying to figure out what would look proportional. 
thanks


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Chireaux said:


> Very nicely done, I am looking to do the same as you did for a new house that we are building, hopefully it comes out half as good as your. I am going with basically the same face frames using the kreg beaded face frame jig, my doors will be similar, but will probably go with a shaker style.
> What width face frames did you go with? And what width were the rails and stiles of the doors and cabinets?
> I am trying to figure out what would look proportional.
> thanks


Thanks.

I used the Kreg 5/16" size beader.

The face frames are 1-3/4" wide except the tops. They will have 1-3/4" showing after the tops are on.

The door rails and stiles are 2" strips.

Everything is 7/8" thick. 1/4" MDF for the panels set back 1/2".


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looks very nice.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Thanks Ray


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

123pugsy said:


> I'm really pleased with the Kreg beaded face frame system. After sanding, most of the the corners look really good.
> BTW, I am in no way affiliated with Kreg. :no:


Yes, your pictures come through very detailed. Great job. Looks great. Thanks for sharing.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Toolman50 said:


> Yes, your pictures come through very detailed. Great job. Looks great. Thanks for sharing.


Thanks.
Phone cameras have made great strides in only a few short years.


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## Chireaux (Aug 10, 2011)

Thanks for the response.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

I finished the drawer box (cabinet) and the drawers at work.
It's nice to have a stainless steel shop at your disposal. 

Just need to add some screws and polish up the welds on the the drawers.


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

123pugsy said:


> I finished the drawer box (cabinet) and the drawers at work.
> It's nice to have a stainless steel shop at your disposal.
> 
> Just need to add some screws and polish up the welds on the the drawers.


Stainless drawers??? Those should be pretty durable!!


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

cps said:


> Stainless drawers??? Those should be pretty durable!!


They'll last my life time and after that, well, who cares.....:no:

The rest of the boxes will be stainless as well. :thumbsup:


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## shutterbalde (Nov 23, 2013)

*Door construction*

Hi

Really enjoyed your posting of the cabinet project. I am finally getting around to building some cabinets for our master bathroom and your examples are great. I have the Kreg beaded face jig (sat in the box for 1 year) and your post came at a good time. I have one question. I don't see how the doors were made. They don't appear to be cope and stick. I'm probably missing something simple.

Thanks
Mike


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Thanks.

They are tongue and groove with 1/2" x 1/4" slots. 1/4" MDF inserts with applied moldings.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

Old thread.

I got the house built and the cabinets installed finally. It's been a long road.

Pics below.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

It sure don't seem like it has been that long since you started building your home, you have done one outstanding job, everything looks great.


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## WeebyWoodWorker (Jun 11, 2017)

Dang, that looks really good mate! Well done


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