# MDF, how strong is it.



## Lawdog (Aug 29, 2010)

One of my neighbors asked for some help to make a dresser or two so his boys wont be living out of plastic storage crates.

He was looking at some poplar and a plywood to match to keep costs down. 

I was wondering how strong MDF would be to make the sides, tops and drawer faces out of and just paint them. It would be much cheaper then the other options for him. 

We could still use 1/2 baltic birch and ball bearing drawer guides for a quality drawer that would last a long time.

What is your thought on the MDF, will screws hold well for attaching the drawer fronts and guides to them.


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## wwinsauer (Dec 7, 2010)

I use MDF to make high end speakers because of its ability to assist in absorbing the back wave and for non resonance. Have used LOTS of it.

For the top and drawer fronts/backs it should be fine but probably wouldn't use much of it anywhere else. Don't use screws if you can, use PVA glue.

I'd say its a lot stronger than laminated particle board but its not even close to the strength of plywood. 1/2" ply is stronger than 3/4" MDF, in my opinion.

Also, MDF is extremely heavy. Sheet of 5/8ths MDF weighs approx 90 lbs.

If it were me, I'd use plywood all the way.

P.S. Compression strength is decent. If you put bolts, machine screws with washers, etc. Should be fine. Screws will tear out under stress.


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## sketel (Sep 15, 2010)

I've made a lot of cabinets out of 3/4 melamine when cost was a factor. Also cut a lot of parts for closet systems using melamine. Never made a dresser, but I don't see how that would be much different. I can't say how long they've lasted since all of them were for customers but I don't remember them ever bringing one back with a complaint. My dad made some melamine cabinets for their pantry about 15 years ago and they are still there without any problems.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

I made a 7' tall X 48" wide step back hutch almost totally with 3/4" MDF. The rails and stiles for the upper glass doors were poplar, the drawers were BB. The lower doors and drawer fronts were also MDF, and the lower doors were raised panels with MDF rails and stiles. 
It is permanently set. I wouldn't want to move that sucker again!
BTW, I coated the drawer glide screws and the screws for the false fronts with CA glue as I ran them into the MDF.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Lawdog said:


> ......to make a dresser... He was looking at some poplar and a plywood to match...
> I was wondering how strong MDF would be to make the sides, tops and drawer faces out of and just paint them. It would be much cheaper then the other options for him. ,,,,.


MDF is a lot stronger than you would suspect, HOWEVER, it is a lot heavier than you would imagine a dresser to weigh. At one point during construction you may not be able to even roll it over by yourself without damaging it. 
If I were you, I would immediately give up the whole idea. 
BTW, this dresser is a one shot deal for many years. How much do you think you will actually be saving by building with MDF? And for how many years do you want it to last?
I'll bet you wont be saving $100 total if you used birch cabinet grade plywood.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I treat all sheet goods (substrates) the same way. They aren't butt joined, but dadoed and rabbeted where applicable, along with glue, clamps, and fasteners if applicable.

As in melamine, even a shallow dadoe or rabbet just to get past the coating improves the joint quite a bit. If a screw is properly driven into composite boards, they hold fairly well. If a joint will ultimately be determined to be a "stressed" joint, early planning for additional or alternative joinery should be employed.












 









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## Lawdog (Aug 29, 2010)

Thanks for the information. I agree MDF is extremely heavy, I hate to cut anything from it in a full sheet.

I did some calculations and I think it would only save him about 50 to 70 dollars depending on the cost of poplar board foot.


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