# Making a template for a curved wall



## RichO (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi all,

Someone asked me about making a counter top for an office but the wall is curved so I would need to make a full size template. It's like two 90 degree adjacent walls but connected with a curve.

I thought of using some cardboard, cutting it close to the wall, and then scribing a line using a compass/dividers, but that would not make a perfect fit because the arc would be smaller by the amount of distance set on the compass.

Any ideas/suggestions?

Thanks


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Lay the straight edge of the cardboard from where the counter top starts and stops or at least the radius. Then if say the middle is 24" from the wall cut a stick 24" long and work your way around the wall marking a line at the end of the stick. Then cut the cardboard and it should fit.


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## RichO (Apr 29, 2009)

Not sure if I follow. Are you saying to just make a big compass?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RichO said:


> Not sure if I follow. Are you saying to just make a big compass?


It's not really a compass it's just an easier than measuring and marking a line.


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## RichO (Apr 29, 2009)

But that would produce a smaller radius would it not? If the black line is the wall and the red line is made using the spacer stick I would think this would be the result....


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Your illustration is exaggerated a bit. On my computer screen the distance between the red and black line is 1 1/4" at the top but 1 9/16" at the corner. If it didn't work on the first try it would put you real close to having it. You may have to scribe it twice.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

It's a bit tricky but you need to keep the scribe at a 45 degree angle. Start in the corner with the scribe at 90 degrees to the curve. Keep the scribe at that angle as you get to the straight area. Do the same for the other wall keeping the scribe in the same position.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Leo has it right!*

This method with yield a perfect radius and tangents.


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## Improv (Aug 13, 2008)

Line the wall with plastic, then spray Great Stuff on the plastic. Take cured Great Stuff on plastic away from wall and trace that.

Regards,
Steve


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Leo G said:


> It's a bit tricky but you need to keep the scribe at a 45 degree angle. Start in the corner with the scribe at 90 degrees to the curve. Keep the scribe at that angle as you get to the straight area. Do the same for the other wall keeping the scribe in the same position.


I thought I forgot something. It's probably been 30 years since I've had to do that.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> Lay the straight edge of the cardboard from where the counter top starts and stops or at least the radius. Then if say the middle is 24" from the wall cut a stick 24" long and work your way around the wall marking a line at the end of the stick. Then cut the cardboard and it should fit.


How is this different than using a compass?

George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> How is this different than using a compass?
> 
> George


With a compass you would find the radius center out in the floor and work inward. With the cardboard template you are working from the wall out following the contour of the wall.


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## jjones03819 (Nov 17, 2016)

Great advice here, I will be sure to remember this!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> With a compass you would find the radius center out in the floor and work inward. With the cardboard template you are working from the wall out following the contour of the wall.


Explain please. I see no difference between a 2" stick (the compass) and a 24" stick other than the length of the stick. The compass being easier to handle I would think it would be more accurate.

George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> Explain please. I see no difference between a 2" stick (the compass) and a 24" stick other than the length of the stick. The compass being easier to handle I would think it would be more accurate.
> 
> George


You might get the radius more accurate by using a compass but if the two walls were not exactly at 90 degrees from each other then the counter top would be in trouble. It's best to scribe against the wall to insure the counter you make fits the wall. There's also no guarantee the radius is true. Depending on who made the wall it may be a little flat in the middle. More than likely the curved wall is bent sheetrock which is difficult to do and keep the radius consistant.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*scribing is different than "constructing"*

If you have an existing wall or curve you can accurately "duplicate" the surface using a scribe. You can not duplicate the curve by "constructing" it with straight edges and a compass ... easily or accurately without a lot of measurements and some trail and error.


In the automotive design world, we had to duplicate the entire surface of a car to flip the design to the opposite side for comparison. We had highly skilled wood workers who spent years doing this and it was extremely accurate. We also did some of this work ourselves when required. A section of the car was marked off and covered with masking tape which was then colored with crayon. As the template got very close to "perfect" the crayola would rub off evenly across the thin plywood and that was an indicator of accuracy. It has to be as close as possible to match other sections done in the same manner. You couldn't use a compass to construct these curves.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Improv said:


> Line the wall with plastic, then spray Great Stuff on the plastic. Take cured Great Stuff on plastic away from wall and trace that.
> 
> Regards,
> Steve


Okay, im curious enough to have to ask, are you being sarcastic of have you actually done this  

On one hand, i can see how itd work. On the other hand, that seems like a lot of work...


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## Improv (Aug 13, 2008)

epicfail48 said:


> Okay, im curious enough to have to ask, are you being sarcastic of have you actually done this
> 
> On one hand, i can see how itd work. On the other hand, that seems like a lot of work...


Not sarcartic in the least. Google up 'mold making with Great Stuff'. 
As for hard work, tape some trash bags onto a wall and spray the Great Stuff onto it. Foam sticks to the plastic sheet (not the wall), expands and hardens. The curve is molded because the foam can not expand in that direction. A more complex surface with scallops or hard edges would take a little extra work or a different release agent (rather than a sheet of something) to make sure the texture is replicated. 
Once its cured, you could either use the whole piece or cut it down to a specific horizontal, vertical, or diagonal as a template.

Regards,
Steve


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## RichO (Apr 29, 2009)

But when you are talking about 12 feet of wall with a curve, I would expect the great stuff mold to flex once you pull it off. For smaller contours I can see it being a good way to make a template.


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## Improv (Aug 13, 2008)

Its pretty ridgid stuff once cured up (similar to the extruded polystyrene insulation sheets) and more likely to break than distort (there is a flexible version, but it costs more) and it would be reinforced by the plastic sheet its sticking to. As I pointed out in my original response, once you pull it back from the wall you would trace that curve. So it would need to survive a trip of about 3' to be scribed onto something on the floor, yes? I wouldn't hesitate to do a 12' section. Biggest concern is what you would do with a 12' section of cured Great Stuff.

A can of Great Stuff is about $2.50. Try it.

Regards,
Steve


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## RichO (Apr 29, 2009)

Clear contact paper would probably work perfectly on the wall. However, my concern is that the great stuff isn't going to cure flat on the bottom so the ability to accurately trace it once it's set on the floor is questionable, unless I am there to cut a flat spot into it as it cures, but I wasn't planning on hanging out there. It's for an office building.


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## Improv (Aug 13, 2008)

If that's your only concern, that is simple enough to fix: use a furring strip or other piece of wood or scrap pvc conduit/pipe on the floor and spray over it. That will give the flat register to the floor and give your template a backbone to boot.

Steve


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## RichO (Apr 29, 2009)

Well, it would be great if I could do it to the floor because that would be flat, but there is a baseboard all along the wall. Also, I was planning to make my template from 29 inches up, exactly where the counter top would be fitting. As it was mentioned, the arc of curved drywall is not likely to be consistent from floor to ceiling.


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## Improv (Aug 13, 2008)

From my perspective, you are putting a great amount of effort to avoid doing it the easy way, so I will wish you good luck. Like I said before, a can of Great Stuff is about $2.50. Try it.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I think you should be able to do it the old fashioned way using a compass. You're right that the line will be offset from the actual radius of the wall, but only at first. As your template gets close to the actual shape of the wall, bring the compass legs closer together and the impact of the offset will be diminished.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I use and old fashined compass like this*



Quickstep said:


> I think you should be able to do it the old fashioned way using a compass. You're right that the line will be offset from the actual radius of the wall, but only at first. As your template gets close to the actual shape of the wall, bring the compass legs closer together and the impact of the offset will be diminished.











You can use the compass, but as LeoG stated you must keep the legs at a 45 degree angle to avoid errors in curves:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/how-to-scribe-for-a-perfect-fit/view-all


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## Rkrose814 (Feb 24, 2020)

Improv said:


> Line the wall with plastic, then spray Great Stuff on the plastic. Take cured Great Stuff on plastic away from wall and trace that.
> 
> Regards,
> Steve


Great idea! Trying to do a custom desk-top to fit against a 9' unevenly-curved wall. This is the perfect solution to get the correct line, at the correct height! Thanks!


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Just trace the outline onto the countertop using the same caliber distance and you'll be fine.

I prefer to use 1/4" plywood joined together for the template.

If you research how granite coutertops are fitted you'll see an example of what I'm talking about.

There are more complicated ways of "spiling" that boatbuilders use probably not necessary.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Lots of info, I guess as they say the proof will be in the pudding. 😊


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## MaintenanceMan (Jun 25, 2010)

Be sure to back-cut the edge of the profile to get a tight fit.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

DrRobert said:


> Just trace the outline onto the countertop using the same caliber distance and you'll be fine.
> 
> I prefer to use 1/4" plywood joined together for the template.
> 
> ...


What I meant to say is trace it on the pattern board then transfer outline to countertop using same caliber distance.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Are the counter cabinets in place?*

Rkrose814

If so, they will support your template made from cardboard OR 1/4" Luan plywood. 

(1) Start with 8" wide strips and locate them next to the wall. Using the compass scribing technique, get them close by scribing, then cutting and fitting until you are satisfied with the curve. 

(2) Tape them together in one large piece. Make marks on the wall and the template to register where the template fits.


(3) Now you have the "negative" shape of the curve which you them transfer to your counter top.

It's best to make the template at the height the countertop will be at. The floor is NOT a good place to make the template. If you are using a preformed laminate top it comes with a wide back strip for scribing on a straight wall, but not wide enough for a sweeping curved wall.


Great Stuff is not strong enough to support itself in longer lengths.
It would need a reinforcement of some sort to avoid it breaking.


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