# Advice on Using Zinsser SealCoat



## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

I have applied dye and then stain to a project and the result was way too dark. So I stripped the piece but of course the dye is not coming out very well and in fact I am okay with that. The colour that is left after stripping will look fine based on putting some mineral spirits on it to simulate the top coat.

To make sure that I don't run into any adhesion problems with the top coat I want to apply some Zinsser SealCoat to provide a barrier before top coating.

How much should I dilute the Zinsser SealCoat? I plan to lightly sand the SealCoat before applying oil based poly and I assume that is fine to do.

Thanks.

Gary


----------



## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Are you planning to brush on the shellac or will you use a sprayer?.

For brushing, Sealcoat is fine as it is. But most folks are more comfortable adding DNA at a 50/50 ratio. Sealcoat is a 2# cut out of the can. Mixing DNA at 50/50 will give you close to a 1# cut. It will brush smother at that cut.

But, as always, test out your finishing plans on some scrap before committing to your project. Shellac is tricky to brush.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Gary, you don't need a barrier coat with an oil based poly. You only need a barrier coat if you are going to use a water based poly before oil stain dries for three days because of the linseed oil. If you wanted to you could use the sealcoat as a sanding sealer but don't use more than one coat. Brushing a second coat melts into the first coat and can be very frustrating to get smooth. To answer your question though Sealcoat is the same thing as shellac only it is refined more to remove the wax content. You would thin either with denatured alcohol. Some folks but shellac in dried flakes and make it fresh as they use it. It's a natural product secreted by a lac bug. I believe most of it comes from India.


----------



## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

HowardAcheson said:


> Are you planning to brush on the shellac or will you use a sprayer?.
> 
> For brushing, Sealcoat is fine as it is. But most folks are more comfortable adding DNA at a 50/50 ratio. Sealcoat is a 2# cut out of the can. Mixing DNA at 50/50 will give you close to a 1# cut. It will brush smother at that cut.
> 
> But, as always, test out your finishing plans on some scrap before committing to your project. Shellac is tricky to brush.


Howie, I will be apply the SealCoat by brush and I will dilute it if that will make it brush smoother. Thank you.

Gary


----------



## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> Gary, you don't need a barrier coat with an oil based poly. You only need a barrier coat if you are going to use a water based poly before oil stain dries for three days because of the linseed oil. If you wanted to you could use the sealcoat as a sanding sealer but don't use more than one coat. Brushing a second coat melts into the first coat and can be very frustrating to get smooth. To answer your question though Sealcoat is the same thing as shellac only it is refined more to remove the wax content. You would thin either with denatured alcohol. Some folks but shellac in dried flakes and make it fresh as they use it. It's a natural product secreted by a lac bug. I believe most of it comes from India.


Steve I want to apply the SealCoat mainly because of the way that I stripped this piece. I want to make sure that if there is dye or stain residue left that it will not interfere and cause an adhesion problem with the top coats.

I will dilute and apply only one coat and sand before applying top coats.

Thanks.

Gary


----------

