# Bar stock for carbide cutters.



## NLAlston (Jan 11, 2008)

Where can they be obtained from?

Recently visited Lowes, as well as Home Depot, for the purpose of picking up some 1/2"x 1/2" steel bar stock by which to make a couple of carbide tools. Home Depot didn't carry any, and Lowes only carried the 3/8"x 3/8" stock. I haven't heard of these carbide tools utilizing the latter sized stock, which is why I haven't considered it.


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

Try McMaster -Carr or Graingers.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

My local Ace hardware has various sizes of metal bar stock. However, you really do need to order it from some place that knows the composition of the steel. The stuff that you find at home centers and hardware stores is typically junk steel that could be anything and everything mixed together.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Bill Boehme said:


> My local Ace hardware has various sizes of metal bar stock. However, you really do need to order it from some place that knows the composition of the steel. The stuff that you find at home centers and hardware stores is typically junk steel that could be anything and everything mixed together.


Steel composition isn't critical - he's using carbide tips. I like round stock myself, and 1/2" from home depot worked out just fine.


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## NLAlston (Jan 11, 2008)

These responses are appreciated.

I DID wonder if there was a 'grading' degree to be factored in to the selection of bar stock, but it seems now (according to Alchymist) that this would not be an issue. That's good to know.

I also did see that HD had the round, 1/2" stock available, and I had considered going that route, too. In fact, after seeing Alchymist's photos of his tools, I am almost certain that I WILL travel that route. I most definitely am not shelving what few traditional tools I have. It is also a fact that I will be getting some more. But I feel that the integration of some carbide tools, into my workflow, just may pan out to be beneficial for me. 

Am looking to make three handles; one, for a square cutter, another for a round cutter, and the third one for a detail cutter. I've never made any lathe tools, before, but am pretty confident that I will do real well with the task. 

The one thing that I don't have in my tool line up, at present, is a tap & die set, and think that i am correct in assuming that it would need to be Metric (seeing that the cutters are sized in Metric).


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## NLAlston (Jan 11, 2008)

Alchymist said:


> Steel composition isn't critical - he's using carbide tips. I like round stock myself, and 1/2" from home depot worked out just fine.


Answer me something, please:

What did you use to shape the curved shoulder, for your round cutter to set against?

Also, about what distance should the cutter protrude past the end of the bar? About an eighth inch, or so?

I just don't want to get my tools done, only to find that my cutters extended too far out, or not enough.


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

NLAlston, you can buy individual taps a lot cheaper then a whole set if you really don't have a use for a set. For what you're doing to make the tool is a tap that is the correct size (diameter and thread pitch) for the size screw you are using and the proper size drill bit for the tap. Tap and Die sets can get expensive for a decent quality set, and I would recommend a decent quality set because cheap sets dull to quick and break to easy.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

NLAlston said:


> Answer me something, please:
> 
> What did you use to shape the curved shoulder, for your round cutter to set against?
> 
> ...


I have a small bench milling machine that I use to machine the recesses for the tips. Then I butt the tip against the shoulder (or into the rounded recess in the case of the round tip), and use a transfer punch to mark for the screw. I used either 6-32 or 8-32 flat head screws to secure the tips (can't remember which). Once drilled and tapped, I then hand grind (bench grinder) rod back about 1/16" or so past the tip, then bevel from tip down back toward the handle. Clearance isn't critical, just grind back far enough the the rod doesn't rub at any angle that you might use the tip at.


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## NLAlston (Jan 11, 2008)

Alchymist said:


> I have a small bench milling machine that I use to machine the recesses for the tips. Then I butt the tip against the shoulder (or into the rounded recess in the case of the round tip), and use a transfer punch to mark for the screw. I used either 6-32 or 8-32 flat head screws to secure the tips (can't remember which). Once drilled and tapped, I then hand grind (bench grinder) rod back about 1/16" or so past the tip, then bevel from tip down back toward the handle. Clearance isn't critical, just grind back far enough the the rod doesn't rub at any angle that you might use the tip at.


Thanks.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Here are some I made. I had the metal on hand, so I can't be helpful there. I let the cutter overhang the length of the bevel. I used a piece of square and round, and I like the square much better. A local machine shop or metal fabrication shop would sell you a piece for cheap.


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## NLAlston (Jan 11, 2008)

hwebb99 said:


> Here are some I made. I had the metal on hand, so I can't be helpful there. I let the cutter overhang the length of the bevel. I used a piece of square and round, and I like the square much better. A local machine shop or metal fabrication shop would sell you a piece.


Thanks for your input, and the photos.

I didn't think of checking with a local machine shop. Will do that.


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

Where are you guys getting the cutters from?


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I bought easy wood tool cutters, but they were $$$. For square cutters you can get helical head planer cutters much cheaper. I don't know of a cheaper source for round cutters.


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

I get mine from this guy. He has been sick for quite a while and I hear he is doing better. Don't know if he is selling yet or not.

Cutters here.. http://eddiecastelin.com/cutters_only

web site. http://eddiecastelin.com/combos_and_other_items


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

Bar stock from online metals dot com. Cutters from Capt Eddie (I hope he's back to work), or Amazon.


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## Dennis Loudermilk (Mar 17, 2017)

Used shock absorbers can be used for this, they have great steel and can be sharpened even without the carbide. Free usually for the asking, drill a couple holes in them to drain the oil (i catch the oil and reuse for threading purposes), cut the outer cover off with grinder or hacksaw. The inner cylinder makes a great handle also. I pull the rod out to near the end, hit it with a tack weld or peen it a little. I tried filling some of the "handles" with shock absorbing material, might have helped but very little difference. You can grind any shape you need, whenever you want. I keep a couple unground near the lathe to grind when on a project, even drill a hole off center in the end to make gouge shape. Grind flat on top for the carbide cutters. Drill & tap and there you are.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Great supplier for carbide cutters http://azcarbide.com/ I also bought my 1/2" bar stock at ACE they work just great, you can also buy taps and drill bit combo's to match screw sizes.


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## Tree Hugger (Sep 1, 2011)

The square bar stock is typically called key stock ( for making custom sized keys for keyways).
A good hardware store, industrial supply ect . even amazon sells it.


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

I've made cutter holders from round and square. I like round much better.


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## Rocket-Boy (Jul 18, 2017)

Most hardware stores should sell the mild steel variety of it which is pretty cheap. The only hassle with mild steel is that if its hot rolled then it will have a mill scale coating, but that can be removed pretty easily with a belt sander.
I finished making one yesterday but Im having problems with the bit vibrating so I think Im going to need to look at either tapping a bigger hole or getting a bigger screw for it.


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

I bought some oil hard round stock on ebay.


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