# Looking for the right tool or technique



## grannyknot (Jan 11, 2016)

Hi guys, I have reached the point in a project that I could easily screw up a nice piece of white oak due to lack of experience.
Hoping someone can offer some advice.
I'm trying to remove all the wood within the pencil lines in what will be a stylized section of a cone that will shadow the same lines in the cast irons legs of a side table I'm putting together.
You can see from the pics that I have started gouging out the oak but realized pretty quick that I was never going to be able to sneak up on the final surface using the chisel shown.
What chisel, rasp, grinder, or file will I need to remove the bulk of the wood so I can end up with a smooth, gradual sloped surface?
The last pic is the bracket on the cast irons legs where the shelf sits.
Thanks,
Chris


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

You could make a jig for your router, but by the time you make the jig you could have hogged the excess out, then sand the rest of the way to the lines.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

That cut looks similar to the shaping of a chair seat. The traditional method uses a spokeshave which could give you a very nice curve and surface. I'd probably opt for chiseling as you're doing then switch to a spokeshave or card scraper to finish it off.


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## EWerner (Oct 14, 2010)

Yup, spoke shave.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I didn't think of that but y'all are right.


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## grannyknot (Jan 11, 2016)

Okay so I'm looking for a convex spoke shave or draw plane, right?


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

I think a gauge would work better than a flat chisel for some of this. But you will need both. 
A routered edge will give the most uniform edge, a gauge and chisel will give you the hand-hewn look. 
Either way, it's a big project. Once you define your edges, the center will be easier. 
Resort to 36 grit belt sander to get a flat uniform bottom and then work through your grits to get it smooth.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think with the varying depth you could do that with carving chisels easier than a router however before I would do that much work I would get a board that isn't split up 3" form the end. 

Depending on your skill level you could make a fence running left to right on your table saw and do the majority of the cut running the board over the blade. If you are not pretty experienced it would be a dangerous thing to do. It's would be similar to making cove molding by running a board diagonally across the blade. You make multiple cuts taking off only a little wood per pass.


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## grannyknot (Jan 11, 2016)

Steve, I have done that before, like 20 yrs ago. Had completely forgotten about that technique, but because the wood that needs to be removed slopes up and becomes shallower, working the piece upside down on the table saw probably isn't going to work.
However, I might be able to use the blade depth adjustment on a electric circular saw to accomplish most of the hogging out in a series of steps down, VERY small steps pushing it diagonally up the work piece. It would be like using the circular saw as if it were a free hand router with a large shallow bit. I better do some practice runs on soft pine first to see if this works.
Thanks,
Chris



Steve Neul said:


> I think with the varying depth you could do that with carving chisels easier than a router however before I would do that much work I would get a board that isn't split up 3" form the end.
> 
> Depending on your skill level you could make a fence running left to right on your table saw and do the majority of the cut running the board over the blade. If you are not pretty experienced it would be a dangerous thing to do. It's would be similar to making cove molding by running a board diagonally across the blade. You make multiple cuts taking off only a little wood per pass.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*it sounds funny, but you want a scorp...*



grannyknot said:


> Okay so I'm looking for a convex spoke shave or draw plane, right?



A scorp is a better tool than a gouge or spoke shave for this operation. 

Charles Neil uses a table saw to cut varing depths into the wood starting from the center and working out with more shallow cuts. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6DaDGE_FJI


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## grannyknot (Jan 11, 2016)

^ Well after watching that video I can see I need all sorts new tools : )
A scorp, a 2 handed scraper, a spoon plane, chain saw discs, flap sanding discs.
Thank you boys.
Chris


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

1. Another 20 or 30 different tools to buy and you can fool with them all for the job. What? $1,800 and this is a done deal. You have a reasonable gouge which is as dull as dirt = fix that. Your progress is in the right direction.
2. Smoooooooth that out with something like a 3/20 or ever a 2/12. Forget the scorp.
3. Make a few cabinet scrapers out of steel lumber strapping for the concave shape. They cut and carve, not the shreddies from sandpapers.
Maybe you don't want to finish this in the next month so buy a stack of tools. Hold my beer, I'll be done in less that 2 hours.


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## grannyknot (Jan 11, 2016)

^ Robson, I have found thinner excuses than this to buy new tools!
I had a go with the circular saw today and did some free hand hogging, then with a 60 grit flap disc and eventually down to 220.
It's getting there.
Chris


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I am pleased to see the progress. You're on the right track.
I like to see the exposure of the growth rings.
Keep up the good work.


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## grannyknot (Jan 11, 2016)

Now the table isn't done yet but here is the test fit,


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Oh, man, I do like that.


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## grannyknot (Jan 11, 2016)

So here is the finished table, it is an Atlas metal lathe bench from the early 40's.
Back when beauty was designed right in to common items.
The cast iron legs are bare metal now that have been lightly oiled so over the next few years they will continue to darken without rusting. The top is the original oak plank that the lathe sat on, the bottom shelf is the one I made. 
Thanks for all the help,
Chris


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Does that ever look good. Like it "belongs" there.


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## RichardEvans (May 24, 2017)

*Ramelson Beginner’s Carving Tools is ideal for you*

Ramelson Beginner’s Carving Tools is ideal for you. These tools are highly recommended for the beginner in wood working, and provide the comfort handles that can be used by hand or even with a mallet.The tools remain sharp even after many projects. It provides good construction and solid durability.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

maybe you already finished it but I would try a 36 grit flap disk on a 4" grinder with a vacuum close by


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Clearly, the final shape had to be approached in stages.
A wide gouge of relatively low sweep like a 5/35 to establish the contour.

If you can afford a big scorp, that's next. 
Otherwise an "inshave" such as is commonly used for chair seats like everybody else.
Try to find one of them in a country garage sale.

Me? I'd go at that with an elbow adze and a D-adze that the Pacific Northwest native carving community
use for the dramatic curves on poles and feast dishes.
Then, very long shaving cuts with crooked knives, maybe a little sanding at the very end.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the project has been finished*

Last update 1-14-2016 post number 17, shows a photo of the finished but not finished area on the table shelf thus:


Further advice is just talking amongst ourselves. OP used a circ saw to hog out the area, like cove cutting on the table saw, post 9. Clever, if not the safest method. :surprise2:


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