# A better push stick



## wdkits1 (Jan 16, 2009)

I made this push stick to use when jointing short stock on the jointer. By combining a feather board on the hooked push stick and making the handle offset I find it much easier and safer to control smaller, thinner pieces.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Not in my shop, Bud!*

deleted


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Whoa !!!*

I agree with Woodnthings.

I would never use a push stick on a jointer. I have two adjustable push pads (as I call them) with a rubber type surface on the bottom so it will help in pushing. They work great for the jointer or router table or even the table saw.


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## GJP60 (Dec 25, 2009)

I always use a pair of push pads, although I haven't called them that before. I have a pair on both the jointer and router table. The relatively dense foam makes great contact with the face of the wood and they keep my hands well away from the blades and bits.
Glen


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## jayman (Dec 20, 2009)

good ideas


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Two push pads here also.

BTW - I just cringed when I saw the left hand on top of the stock.


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## Shamus (Aug 22, 2008)

Well, all I can do is share my own experience. 

About 10 years ago I was joining pcs of 14" stock using a notched push stick, pretty cloase to what you show. The second piece kicked back and I was lucky to have thrown both hands back away from the blades but not quick enough to keep from being whacked in the head from that board.

Seven stitches in my forehead and I haven't joined anything shorter than 4' in length since then.

woodnthings, I may try something along the lines of what you've shown. I might get my confidence back again. Well, maybe.

Be safe out there, things happen way to quick.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Although I am not an expert on the jointer at all, I would have to agree that Woodnthings method appears to be a little more on the safe side.............HOWEVER............with that being said, I don't think that we can deny that there is definitely a place in the shop for Wdkits push stick. Maybe not as a stand alone push stick on the jointer, but there are a host of other stationary power tools that I can see this push stick being perfect for. Any push stick that keeps your hands away from the cutters is a plus. Don't discount Wdkits push stick's functionality.
Ken


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I use push pads too, and I never joint wood with both hands and a camera in my mouth!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> The forces necessary to joint small pieces are down and forward simultaneously. The feather board serves no purpose in applying those forces. Friction, and down pressure along the length of the workpiece and a stop at the end as you have made are what's needed. Please take this without offense, as I only mean to save your fingers. You NEVER place your forward hand directly over the cutter because all sorts of things can go wrong...kickback, or the wood disintegrates from knots or splits etc. Jointing is a 2 handed operation and it's best to maintain them both.



Good advice. A push stick is a push stick, and a featherboard is a featherboard. Besides the "feather cuts", the width of a push aid shouldn't allow for any wobble, or movement.

A note on clothing. In the picture, the sleeve part of that sweater may look safe enough. Think about what and how your clothing can get caught in equipment before you start.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ahhh, the old helmet cam...*



ACP said:


> I use push pads too, and I never joint wood with both hands and a camera in my mouth!


From Motocross days. I seldom. rarely, if ever, take pictures with the machine running. It's all "theater" these days, staged for the photo.:blink:
bill


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:
ok, now you guys are just getting silly.
(pretty par for this forum, it's what keeps me hanging around)
Ken


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## WoodMark (Dec 18, 2009)

I used to have a comb like that.....when I had hair. I also agree with woodnthings, keep your hands clear of any blade or cutterhead. What would happen to the feathers if the cutterhead got hold of them?


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## Zircon (Aug 1, 2009)

*A pull stick*

I too concur with woodnthings..downward pressure toward the front and a cleat at the back. I use masonry floats as I like the handles, big and comfortable. The handle is far enough forward that I am pulling rather than pushing. I think it makes a smoother cut and the long stick may be better than two pads which might cause rocking due to uneven pressure between hands. I have a shorter one for even shorter workpieces. Note to Shamus-I have been flattening short pieces with no problems so far. When you had an unpleasant experience, you were probably pushing down at the back and the front of the piece raised up and did a backflip.


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## Paintinglady (Feb 4, 2010)

*Joiner use*

I have a couple questions. The pictures I see show the wood piece flat on the joiner bed. I have always used the joiner to get a clean edge on a board before cutting on a table saw or joining the wood, and a planner to smooth the surface of the board. Am I missing something?:blink: Will the joiner give you a better surface? Is this done mainly to laminate?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Jointers have 2 uses*

To straighten an edge as you have used it.
The other is to "flatten the surface of one side, eliminate any cup or twist in the board.
This makes it ready for planing or edge jointing as you now have a flat surface to press against the fence while pushing the edge across the cutters.
You don't want to place a twisted or cupped board on the table saw since when it twists or wobbles, it can cause a kickback. 
So, joint one surface of the board first, then edge joint or thickness plane in either order, then rip to desired width on the table saw. Now you have a 4 surfaces square and parallel, ready for use. :thumbsup: bill


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Normally I don't use any push sticks/pads for jointing. But when I do, I use the ones that came with my DJ20. Just keep your hands from being over the cutter head and you should be safe. You have to keep the pads clean from dust otherwise they get slippy. I also use my pads for putting the angles on my crown moldings.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*New improved version*

I added a knob to the front of my push block for 2 handed operation. I always had planned to do this but just got the knobs at Rocklers, so on they went. Much better now! :thumbsup: bill
(Guards removed for photos only)


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

I'm really surprised by all the extreme safety measures everyone seems to be taking. Afraid of a few knicks? No camera around running machines? 

Heck, I'll take phone calls or even eat while I'm running the jointer. Just use my elbows so that my hands are free. Or sometimes I hike a knee up on the back of the board to push it on through.

If the board is big enough, I'll use my "treadmill" approach. That's where I grab onto the chin up bar high over the jointer and "walk" the board through the process with my bare feet. Luckily the guard snaps back into place just in time when I'm not paying attention and get to the end of the board.

Gee, you guys are probably afraid to trim your nails on the band saw.

Rob


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I trim mine on the edge sander.


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

*Has anyone noticed*

The O.P. made the first post, and is long gone. Good discussion for those that hung around, and good info for lurkers.:thumbdown::thumbsup:


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## SamTHorn (Mar 16, 2010)

*Clever*

Clever idea. I like what you did there and thanks for sharing. Don't forget to clean your men's underwear.

~ Sam


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## mwhals (Apr 13, 2010)

Hand directly on the wood surface and a sleeve in the vicinity! This is not how I was taught in shop class (high school). I have to concur with everyone else.


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## JordanRHughes (May 7, 2010)

I like that look. thanks for the share.

Jordan



wdkits1 said:


> I made this push stick to use when jointing short stock on the jointer. By combining a feather board on the hooked push stick and making the handle offset I find it much easier and safer to control smaller, thinner pieces.


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