# Kreg joinery question



## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Hello,

I am about to attach a 1.5" thick bench top to a 1.5" end piece/leg with Kreg pocket hole screws and want to make sure I am joining from the correct side/direction. Attached is a pic with the direction I was going to try. Any help is appreciated!


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## sbrader (Aug 27, 2015)

Gus64 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am about to attach a 1.5" thick bench top to a 1.5" end piece/leg with Kreg pocket hole screws and want to make sure I am joining from the correct side/direction. Attached is a pic with the direction I was going to try. Any help is appreciated!


That's what I would do. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Thank you!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The kreg jig was developed for cabinet faceframes. Their marketing has gotten people using that tool in ways it was never designed for and is making a very poor impact on the craft of woodworking. To use it in the manor shown above makes the side look crude showing the screws on the inside side plus makes for a weak joint when wood starts splintering off the end of the top. 

That joint would be much stronger if the screws were drilled straight through the top, countersunk using hole plugs behind the screws. It would be strong and look better if the top was doweled to the side.


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Thanks for your thoughts. Yes, I thought of screwing down but was concerned with splitting. I am a very new wood worker and have been trying the pocket hole system for a few small projects and like them so far but understand their limitations. Biggest problem I have is trying to get straight boards and make things square, haha! I am learning though!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You do not say if the screws are the only thing that will be holding that joint together. If so, it will be a very weak joint regardless of the direction of the screws. A workbench needs much stronger connections.

George


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## twgomez (Feb 18, 2018)

So, I just (re) made my router table because I used basic screws to join it together the first time. It wobbled, as most experienced woodworkers could have told it would had I asked first. You NEED to do a tongue and groove in that to stabilize the joint so it won't wiggle, which will in turn cause it to loosed over time and wiggle even more.


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

So, I am making a shoe entryway bench. I used Kreg pocket hole screws to attach 2x10s to make the top, middle shelf, sides. Even cut a piece of plywood to attach to the back to stabilize it if needed. I am thinking (hoping) the middle shelf acts as a support for the whole thing. Thoughts? Attached is a pic of the bench I am trying to build.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

At least put a partial back. I would make it with a complete back. At least put a back on the space between the middle shelf and the top.

George


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Yes, I have a piece of plywood cut for the entire backside. I would think that would help secure this unit along with my glueing and pocket holes everywhere else. I was also thinking of switching to a non splitting deck screw of sorts to attach everything else together and holding off on additional pocket holes and glue of course. Something like the attached photo? Would these screws (shorter length) also work to attach the plywood to the back?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Turning out nice:smile2:


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Well, that's a pic of what I am HOPING the entryway bench looks like after I finish! About to put it all together and it's been a learning process but fun! And challenging, too, thanks to those straight boards from Home Depot! (Sarcasm)


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Gus64 said:


> Yes, I have a piece of plywood cut for the entire backside. I would think that would help secure this unit along with my glueing and pocket holes everywhere else. I was also thinking of switching to a non splitting deck screw of sorts to attach everything else together and holding off on additional pocket holes and glue of course. Something like the attached photo? Would these screws (shorter length) also work to attach the plywood to the back?


Sure they will work, but so will many other types of screws. Whichever screws you use, I would pre-drill the holes first, even if they are "non-splitting" screws.


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Yes, pre-drilling...thanks.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I have never liked the pocket hole approach to joinery, simply because the joints are so weak and will fall apart way too easily.

IMO, you would be much better off doing something more like a dado/rabbet joint like this. Of course, that is a more involved joint, but it is MUCH better.


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Thanks for that tip. Still learning and gathering as much info as possible!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would leave the screws alone if you are putting on a back. Glue and a back should be sufficient.

George


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Thank you George.


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## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

Gus, you can buy plus to fill the holes the Kreg Jig makes. That will help it look nicer.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...005750:kwd-34272209051&ref=pd_sl_8iz76j8oa1_b


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Yes, I've used them with some other small projects...thanks!


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## Longarm (Mar 31, 2018)

An article that I read on another forum (can’t seem to re find it) tested Kreg joints with various glued joints and not surprisingly all the glue joints were stronger than the Kreg joints. I have one and use for non load bearing joints but just personally don’t feel they are strong enough for long term load bearing.. but that’s just my well aged opinion


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## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

Longarm said:


> An article that I read on another forum (can’t seem to re find it) tested Kreg joints with various glued joints and not surprisingly all the glue joints were stronger than the Kreg joints. I have one and use for non load bearing joints but just personally don’t feel they are strong enough for long term load bearing.. but that’s just my well aged opinion


What do you consider "load bearing" joints in cabinetry and furniture?


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## Longarm (Mar 31, 2018)

*Kreg joints*

In my simple mind, any joint that is supporting someone, being leaned on, sit on or pushed on, is load bearing. Shear strength seems to be the main downfall.


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## pro70z28 (Feb 26, 2018)

Gus64 said:


> Yes, I have a piece of plywood cut for the entire backside. I would think that would help secure this unit along with my glueing and pocket holes everywhere else. I was also thinking of switching to a non splitting deck screw of sorts to attach everything else together and holding off on additional pocket holes and glue of course. Something like the attached photo? Would these screws (shorter length) also work to attach the plywood to the back?


Pre-drill the screw holes and they won't split.


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

pro70z28 said:


> Gus64 said:
> 
> 
> > Yes, I have a piece of plywood cut for the entire backside. I would think that would help secure this unit along with my glueing and pocket holes everywhere else. I was also thinking of switching to a non splitting deck screw of sorts to attach everything else together and holding off on additional pocket holes and glue of course. Something like the attached photo? Would these screws (shorter length) also work to attach the plywood to the back?
> ...


Well, I used Kreg screws to attach the 2x10s together at their edges and doing that along with glue made the bench rock-solid. I ended-up attaching the sides and top with construction screws, counter-sunk them and plugged the holes. Turned out pretty nice.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Gus64 said:


> Well, I used Kreg screws to attach the 2x10s together at their edges and doing that along with glue made the bench rock-solid. I ended-up attaching the sides and top with construction screws, counter-sunk them and plugged the holes. Turned out pretty nice.


Very nice!


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## Gus64 (Jan 6, 2018)

Thanks!


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## Longarm (Mar 31, 2018)

Looks good and solid. Ideal use of Kreg screws..


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