# Zero Clearance plate



## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I know I should have done so when I first got my TS, but I finally got around to making a zero clearance insert. I made mine out of some 1/2 inch poplar wood I had laying around from a drawer construction. I drilled the holes to fit the stock plates screws and levelers and inserted them. They worked perfectly and I have a completely level plate. I think it is more level than the stock one actually! I sanded it to 220 and then waxed it. I think it will serve me well for awhile. I plan to make several more for my dado stack and some spares. Here's to improved safety and dust control!:thumbsup:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Very nice work*

Just don't forget that if you make a bevel cut, You'll have to lower the blade all the way, (it may not go down far enough) and then raise it up under power at the desired angle. It if won't go down far enough, you can either rout that portion away but not through the insert, or use a smaller diameter blade and raise it up to relieve the insert. Speaking from experience here!:yes: bill
BTW did you thread the holes for the leveling screws?


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

nicely done !

Paul


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Just don't forget that if you make a bevel cut, You'll have to lower the blade all the way, (it may not go down far enough) and then raise it up under power at the desired angle.


What is the trick? When I tried that all I did was create a lot of smoke and bend the blade.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks everyone. Woodnthings, since its just poplar I drilled the holes to the width of the screws and then screwed them in. I wasn't expecting it but they seem to have self-threaded themselves and are in there firm. Lucky is what I call it!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A smaller blade may be needed to make a ZCI, as the angle may protrude into the wood. Another tip about cranking the blade through for the first time is to hold down the insert as the blade emerges through, and/or, if the fence is tight to the table place it close to the blade for a hold down (not in the way for an angle pass though).

My ZCI's are 1/2" thick and I use BB or Maple ply covered with plastic laminate. I don't use wax. Once you have one for a good fit, use it for a pattern to make more...you'll always need them.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*This comes up regularly so.................*

I made an Album of the procedure.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/tony-b-5040/albums/table-saw-inserts/


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## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

Why is a Zero Clearance plate important? I've seen plenty of threads talking about them but don't get the point.


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## Fbranco (Jan 30, 2009)

ScottyB said:


> Why is a Zero Clearance plate important? I've seen plenty of threads talking about them but don't get the point.


Two fold the way I see it:
1-Helps reduce the chip out on the piece you're cutting by working as a backer board.
2-Since there's no gap between the ZCI and the blade, no cut off can get pinched and thrown back at you.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*What they are and what they do*

A "zero clearance" plate has no gap on either side of the blade for thin strips to get hung up in and fall into the saw arbor. The temptattion is to try to remove them while the blade is spinning so you can proceed with another cut, or they are just annoying and you want to remove them as a challange. Either one is an accident waiting to happen.:furious: They make the sawing process safer. They are made with a solid surface into which the spinning blade is raised under power just cutting enough plate away for the teeth to clear, leaving no gaps. The plate must be either held down during this process or must be the type that is retained by a clip at the rear and a screw at the front. I wouldn't run my saw without one unless there was no other choice. Ripping thin strips which fall to the left side of the blade is the usual issue, but a strip can also be "trapped" on the right side of the blade between the fence. Any pressure downward will force the thin strip into the gap if there is one.
:thumbsup: bill


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## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

Thank you for that explanation. What is the safest way to make one if the lowest you can get the blade is flush with the top of the table?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Assuming that you have a 5/8" arbor*

On the table saw, use a 7 1/4" blade from a circular saw to start the cut with and raise it to full height. Then change the blade to your 10" table saw blade. The width of the kerf may vary slightly from blade to blade, but that will get you started. A handsaw or narrow file can be used to widen the kerf to get the larger blade started, then raise it up to what ever height you use most often.
FYI my saw is a 12" and I always use 10" blade so this wasn't a problem for me. I would not advise lowering the plate onto a spinning blade, accident waiting to happen! :furious: Another way is to cut the slot first in a blank piece using the standard throat plate, then locate the slot centered over the standard plate and band saw or rout the new plate to match. This is a little trickier, but doable. Remember to secure the stock with a clamp when raising the blade under power, to avoid a kick back.  bill


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Must be the Table Saw Trunnion*



rrich said:


> What is the trick? When I tried that all I did was create a lot of smoke and bend the blade.


It must move the arbor up slightly as well as the raising the blade vertically. The solution would be a dedicated plate at the desired angle, a PITA. The blade must be lowered all the way to clear the bottom of the new plate, but if yours can't.... see the answer above, using a smaller dia blade to start the cut with first. :thumbsup: bill


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## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

Thank you again. I just slapped my head in frustration at reading your reply.:bangin: The answer was so simple and obvious I can't believe I didn't catch it.


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## Clouseau (Mar 22, 2009)

I make a partial cut with my dado blades w/o my usual blade stiffeners first. Then install the stiffeners and 10" blade.


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