# exotic woods



## Butch (Dec 18, 2006)

.. WW'ers, tell me your experiences with the exotics; Bubinga/Wenge/ Sapele/Leopardwood/ Braz. cherry(Jatoba?)/other... the mill I get wood from handles the exotics, of which I bought some of @.... I see that they are a denser wood, they appear to machine well(those that I've gotten to)... 
what other types do you suggest ?
Butch


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Exotics are great for accenting and necessary in musical instruments. You will find pros and cons on this subject. Don`t try to sell a tree hugger too many exotics... unless you know what you`r e doing! And I don`t mean (tree hugger) in a derogatory nature. Exotics are indangered... and should not be used unwisely!! I was commisioned once to build a wine cabinet with a modern theme. The customer chose cherry as the main wood cab... with random rectangle inlay pieces in the counter top of the cab. The cabinet was a total success from design to paycheck>>> but< i Did feel a bit of guilt because I know these woods will not be as available in the future! Oh... It`s good to moisten very dense exotics before gluing.


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## stuart (Jan 20, 2008)

It`s good to moisten very dense exotics before gluing.

Thanks for the advice, man


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## JON BELL (Nov 2, 2007)

At first you might want to stay away from woods with interlocking grain like curly maple.They tend to have alot of tearout when you use POWER tools.You might also want to check out their toxcisityyy first.


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## Boardman (Sep 9, 2007)

Exotics are addictive. There's some really gorgeous stuff out there, and they are really impressive to customers like those in the upper midwest here, who have grown up with the standard oak, maple, and cherry.

Generally they're far denser than domestics and more oily. I haven't had any gluing problems because of the oil content, but then I usually wipe the edges with something like naptha to cut the oil a bit. The oil content does produces great glossy finishes with just poly.

I was just planing some lacewood (leoparwood) yesterday and it comes out really smooth despite what it looked like it might. 

They're a lot heavier than domestics, and that means price-wise too, so I haven't made many things completely out of exotics. But as mentned before, they make great accent woods. One of my favorites is padauk with walnut. When the padauk is planed/machined it looks a ghastly carrot-bright orange, but air exposure returns it to a more burgundy shade. Put a little BLO on it and it looks really great with walnut. 

Cocobolo is one of my favorites too. It can vary somewhat in the amount of red tones in it from tree to tree, but it just flat gorgeous.

Ipe should only be used for decks, bridge abutments, and railroad ties. Damn stuff is like iron and equally heavy. Cumaru is just as bad, and plain as heck looking. Stair tread material.

Like I said, they're addictive. Next I'm going to try and get some of the scarcer stuff like Blue Mahoe or Katalox.

In regards to the whole environmental thing, I'd be considered an environmentalist, but I don't think woodworkers are killing the rainforests. The amount used for lumber is miniscule in comparison to the vast acerages slashed and burned for agricultural expansion. And those people just pile the stuff up and torch it. Most of the exotic producers work under government forestry regulation in whatever country. My opinion.


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## Butch (Dec 18, 2006)

Boardman said:


> Exotics are addictive. There's some really gorgeous stuff out there, and they are really impressive to customers like those in the upper midwest here, who have grown up with the standard oak, maple, and cherry.
> 
> Generally they're far denser than domestics and more oily. I haven't had any gluing problems because of the oil content, but then I usually wipe the edges with something like naptha to cut the oil a bit. The oil content does produces great glossy finishes with just poly.
> 
> ...


great!! I'm currently building a half-moon table w/ Leopardwood top and curly maple legs...should look cool. Thanks for the reply,I appreciate it.


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## jeffreythree (Jan 9, 2008)

I have a hall table of brazilian cherry that is partially done. I do not have a mortise machine and have spent more time sharpening chisels than chopping mortisses. Dulls tools fast! I have used sapelle a couple of times and it works very well, but it is a little plain. Found I am slightly allergic to leopardwood sawdust this weekend, it is supposed to be toxic to some. My current favorite exotic is redheart, sold as a species called Erythroxylum, a blend of reds and sometimes a little black streak going on.


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## stuart (Jan 20, 2008)

brazilian wood is the kind that Gibson used to make the SG line[guitars]

nowadays there's a ban on that Brazilian wood - that is what i heard.


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## User3489 (Dec 6, 2007)

Why the ban endangered?


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## jeffreythree (Jan 9, 2008)

I believe it is brazil wood that is banned and endangered, it is a rosewood and was over harvested. Bazilian cherry/Jatoba is a completely different wood. I have heard jatoba called the oak of South America since it is common and quick growing in their climate.


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## stuart (Jan 20, 2008)

Supposely the old Gibson SG line has this very South American wood in their contracts and made out those guitars in the 60's and 70's.
Now those old guitars are worth many thousands of dollars.

Today I'm guessing they are using rosewood or cherry [American] that may or may not be influence [man-made]. Thbe sounds of the guitars today from that line doesn't have the same full nice sound like their 60's and 70's former models have.
Plus the older ones now sound even better with natural aging.

It is quite common for a 1968 SG Gibson as is to be in the 4-5 thou range or more


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## ChrisF (Mar 17, 2008)

*Where can I find wood other than Home Depot?*

Hello Everyone,

As I guess you already know I am very new to woodworking, but I was wondering, whenever I develop enough skill where I might find wood other than at home depot or lowes.

I called some cabanet shops who told me I would have to buy it in large quantities and it would be rough.

Any tips on how I might go about looking for a mill or other vendor near my home?

I live in South Florida.

Thanks for any guidance you can offer!


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## Boardman (Sep 9, 2007)

Florida is probably a more difficult place to find lumber sources than here in the upper midewest, where the stuff grows on trees. But check the yellow pages or online for woodworking supply places like Rockler of Woodcraft. They'll have a variety of species already planed to 3/4. You might also check lumberyards that carry hardwoods. Mills, and I can't think there are too many in FLA, will have rough sawn usually in any quantity, but it will be rough sawn.

Maybe someone from down in your area will respond.


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## stuart (Jan 20, 2008)

84 lumber I believe, Chris, is a company out in Tampa. I think they mill and sell wood pieces.
Never been there but I've always seen it in biz for the last 20 years at least.


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## Marko (Feb 11, 2008)

ChristopherF said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> As I guess you already know I am very new to woodworking, but I was wondering, whenever I develop enough skill where I might find wood other than at home depot or lowes.
> 
> ...


Man I lived in Boca Raton for over 20 yrs. and I didn't even think about buying a mill until I left.Amazing thing is,all these exotics that are parkin themselves at the Port of Miami and Port Everglades(go figure).You can contact Woodmizer and they'll tell you who, if anyone has a mill in your area.Chances are slim but you never know.I know of a Cocobolo connection in Hialeah but it's abit pricey wood to work with for a beginner.I was surfin' and fishin' when I lived there and never thought about woodworking outside my JOB as a finish carpenter/contractor. I think any cabinet shop in S.FLA is not going to be setup for ordering out for "you".I would beware.I remember some real sh$T heads down there that were involved in many other things besides there own biz.Think about the species you would like to work with what ever it is it might decide where you go to shop for it.Whether it be online or bigbox or retail venue.:yes:I don't know exactly where you are but Constantines is on Oakland Park Blvd. and Dixie HWY in Ft.Lauderdale, they have a pretty good supply of any hardwood inc.veneers. I had a number for a guy in Miami who dealt in exotics.If I find it i'll PM it to you.Now anyone selling Hardwoods in S.Fla is going to have climate controlled due to the 100% day in and dayout RH levels so expect to pay a premium.
Stuart mentioned 84Lumber,they used to be on STRD 84 in Ft.Laud.and since relocated, but now thats Causeway Lumber and they have a limited selection of Hardwoods too.better prices I would think.and then of course theres Smith & DeShields in Boca Raton,higher prices but nice wood. Funny how the memory comes back to ya:smile: ......Mark


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## stuart (Jan 20, 2008)

84 lumber is still active

*Plant City** (1329)*
2102 Henderson Way
Plant City, FL 33563

*Phone: *(813) 754-3584
*Fax: *(813) 754-4658
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-6 Sat: 8-3 Sun: CLOSED


*Sarasota** (1342)*
7921 15th Street East 
Sarasota, FL 34243

*Phone: *(941) 359-0684
*Fax: *(941) 359-0759
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-6 Sat: 8-3 Sun: CLOSED


*Haines City** (1339)*
3777 Cr 544 East
Haines City, FL 33844

*Phone: *(863) 422-1184
*Fax: *(863) 422-1162
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-6 Sat: 8-12 Sun: 9-4


*Brooksville** (1334)*
2281 Broad St
Brooksville, FL 34604

*Phone: *(352) 544-8084
*Fax: *(352) 799-1184
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-7 Sat: 8-5 Sun: CLOSED


*Winter Garden** (1337)*
1011 Pineloch Ind Drive 
*Plant City** (1329)*
2102 Henderson Way
Plant City, FL 33563

*Phone: *(813) 754-3584
*Fax: *(813) 754-4658
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-6 Sat: 8-3 Sun: CLOSED


*Sarasota** (1342)*
7921 15th Street East 
Sarasota, FL 34243

*Phone: *(941) 359-0684
*Fax: *(941) 359-0759
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-6 Sat: 8-3 Sun: CLOSED


*Haines City** (1339)*
3777 Cr 544 East
Haines City, FL 33844

*Phone: *(863) 422-1184
*Fax: *(863) 422-1162
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-6 Sat: 8-12 Sun: 9-4


*Brooksville** (1334)*
2281 Broad St
Brooksville, FL 34604

*Phone: *(352) 544-8084
*Fax: *(352) 799-1184
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-7 Sat: 8-5 Sun: CLOSED


*Winter Garden** (1337)*
1011 Pineloch Ind Drive 
Winter Garden, FL 34787

*Phone: *(407) 656-1484
*Fax: *(407) 905-9784
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-7 Sat: 8-5 Sun: CLOSED

Winter Garden, FL 34787

*Phone: *(407) 656-1484
*Fax: *(407) 905-9784
*Hours:* Mon-Fri: 7-7 Sat: 8-5 Sun: CLOSED


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

There are a few places in South Florida.

General Hardwoods
http://www.teakdeckings.com/

Constantines
http://www.constantines.com

Woodcraft
http://www.woodcraft.com

Sheridan Lumber
2044 Sheridan St
Hollywood, FL 33020
Phone: (954) 920-8079

Seafarer Marine
http://www.seafarermarine.com/main2.htm

Hardwoods Inc.
Miami, Fl

Hardwood Lumber & Products
Plantation, Fl

Lauderdale Lumber Co.
405 Northeast 2nd Street, Fort Lauderdale, FL


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## Ryu Bateson (Feb 29, 2008)

I have worked with exotic woods, and they are AMAZING! 

But a word of warning, many exotic woods can be hazardous to work with. dust from sanding can cause rashs and is not good to inhale.

Check what wood you are working with and be sure to wear a mask!


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

I'm using babinga for a little tall table for a lamp. Since you guys are talking wood. I may say this wrong. What's the difference between a rough sawn board and a fletch. I'm not even sure how to spell it. I've seen guys say that's a fletch. It's a nice rough board. I know you want to resaw them to get book matched pieces. Just where does it stop being a board stop and start being a fletch.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

bigredc said:


> I'm using babinga for a little tall table for a lamp. Since you guys are talking wood. I may say this wrong. What's the difference between a rough sawn board and a fletch. I'm not even sure how to spell it. I've seen guys say that's a fletch. It's a nice rough board. I know you want to resaw them to get book matched pieces. Just where does it stop being a board stop and start being a fletch.



A flitch refers to a section of veneer that is cut from longitudinal grain and used side-by-side as a face veneer for plywood. They can be cut in sequence for a uniform grain match across the sheet.


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

Since I wrote that I got some more info. I was confused because the only time I heard it used was when someone would point to a 8'-10' tall big board, and say that's fletch cut. I think I have it now. A fletch is any 2 boards or veneers no matter how big or thick cut in sequence so they can be book matched. Is that right?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

bigredc said:


> Since I wrote that I got some more info. I was confused because the only time I heard it used was when someone would point to a 8'-10' tall big board, and say that's fletch cut. I think I have it now. A fletch is any 2 boards or veneers no matter how big or thick cut in sequence so they can be book matched. Is that right?



It is spelled flitch (there is an "i", not an "e"). The reference I'm familiar with has always been to veneers on plywood faces, not lumber.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Not exactly. I bet there are regional definitions of this term. But first let's get the spelling and pronunciation correct. It's flitch with an "i". 

A flitch is a type of board taken from a log with one or more (usually two) live edges. It does not have to have a bookmatched sister board to be a flitch. It would of course, if you took one more slice off the log in sequence without rotating the log first. 

The process is, you knock one or more slabs off and the next baord you get is the flitch, lizard, jacket, and probably other terms in other areas. 

Flitches are the boards that are run through an edger to make a dimensioned baord. A flitch, technically speaking, is not really a piece of lumber yet until the live edge/s are taken off. 

Many woodworkers like flitches. Nakashima reveled in them.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

cabinetman I see where you replied as I was writing. Yes thank you for reminding us of the veneer industry term you are correct as always.

The sawmill term for flitch is different as you might guess.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

This is one example of a flitch. It has two live edges (live edge = bark still on or fallen off and "inner bark" layer exposed). And in keeping with the title of your thread, an "exotic" one. I just grabbed it out of my library and it was titled "Red Flitch". 


















Edit: Personally I refer to these as "slab flitch" since it is so thick. I don't know at what thickness I beging to do this. It's just a feel. If it looks thick in the 2"+ range I call them slab flitches.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TT

You're absolutely right about nomenclature. I'm always amazed at the different terminology concerning procedures, veneers, lumber, logs, milling, machining, and references to forest products. What is common to some areas is totally different in others. 

As an example, just the definitions of lumber and timber can be mind boggling. I spent some time in my early years helping out with timber framing and post and beam construction. The materials, tools, and procedures and terminology are a world to itself, just as in furniture and cabinetmaking.

But still, as long as there is that aroma of wood of some sort, I'm all in. For the guys that saw up logs, I gotta hand it to ya. I think I'll leave that end of the heavy work to the young blood.


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