# Parting tools



## Pauley (Jan 21, 2012)

Parting tools. I see so many different types and it is confusing me. I'm relatively new to turning, and only have (what I ass-U-me) is just the basic parting tool. I always try to figure out for myself what the different tools are used for and how to properly use them. So I have a dumb question, if I may... I have seen the basic parting tool (a triangular shape), I seen one that is referred to as a diamond parting tool, and yet another that looks very thin and shaped at an angle. Now, in making say, a bowl, all turned and it's time to cut the tenon...which tool is used? When cutting the tenon, what speed...? 

I just finished a small spalted maple bowl, and was a bit nervous in cutting the tenon. So what I did was to cut it (using the basic parting tool) to about 3/4 of an inch. Then I turned the lathe of and locked it so it would not spin. I then finished cutting it with a small handsaw.

Any suggestions about these different parting tools and their proper usage would help me a lot.


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## BigJoe16 (Feb 20, 2012)

Parting tools have 3 basic shapes. The diamond tool has a blade that is skinny at the top, fastest in the middle and skinny again at the bottom so when cutting deeper into a piece, it creates a sort of kerf like a saw blade. That way the wood and tool don't bind up nearly as easy. 

I have the diamond shape and straight blade and greatly prefer the diamond.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

My first suggestion is to buy a scroll chuck if you are not using one yet. It will make turning so much easier and allow you to do things that are a lot more troublesome with a faceplate. Whether using a chuck or a faceplate, I would reverse the bowl and use a jam chuck to hold it while you remove the tenon using a bowl gouge.

Here are some different parting tools. They all do the same thing, but you will have different situations where you might choose one over another.

The first one below is my favorite because of its narrow kerf that allows it to be used in tight quarters. The bottom edge of the point has been knurled so that it hast two spurs to cleanly cut the fibers on each side of the kerf. The disadvantage is that it requires a long overhang past the tool rest so that it is sitting on the straight part of the blade. This makes if tougher for a beginner who might still be having problems with catches.










The next one is usually called a diamond parting tool because of its cross section which has a diamond shape (sort of). It makes a kerf that is about 3/16 inch wide and because it is widest at the cutting tip, it is less likely to bind in the kerf. I have one and I still make clearance cuts because it can still get pinched in the cut.










The next one is is usually called a beading/parting tool because it can be used for either purpose. It has a kerf about 1/4 inch wide. I don't use mine often for parting, but I do use it for many other purposes.










The final one is a lot like the one above except that it is just thinner. I have never used one, but I probably would not use it for beading.










I hope this helps. If there is a turning club within driving distance, I would attend a meeting and hook up with a turner who can help a lot more than reading on forums.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

I would only add the the first (thin wide one) is very good where you want to remove the minimum of wood. An example would be with a box where you want the grain pattern to continue as much as possible.
If your grinding wheel has a sharp corner you can grind the V in a wider gouge to give you the same type two spurs.

I have a thin kerf and a standard (1/2"W flat). I learned early on to make sure you widen the kerf going deep. I once had a catch/grab and hearing the blade bounce off the wall behind the lathe found myself standing there with just the handle in my hands. Not good :no:.
If I ever need another flat I will buy the diamond shape; but they should last a lifetime so I probably never will.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Really there is very little difference between a 3/16 diamond parting tool and a 3/16 flat sided tool. If you start wit a freshly sharpened tool. I you plunge either one in an inch or more you get about the same heat and binding. With a dull tool the flat one will bind more. However as mentioned above you should always make deep cuts in multiple passes. You don't need to make the second cut but just a hair wider. Just enough to not bind the tool 
I have a video that shows how I use the parting tool but I don't remember which one and I'm on my phone and can't play them to see which one. Feel free to go to youtube and type in john60lucas and you may find it. You might try typing /parting tool after my name.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Found it if I copied the link correctly
http://youtu.be/9W2m9JCG6IY


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## dartman (Oct 12, 2012)

I have made parting tools from a lawn edger blade and a thin
one from a butter knife from the flea market.I used the belt 
sander to make a profile I liked.If you mess up it was only
a .50 cent blade.The edger blade was 5.99 at the hardware
store.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

The old butcher knives from the fifties that were wider at the top make great parting tools. My favorite thin parting tool is a drywall cutting saw that I bought for 50 cents. Ground the teeth off and shaped it to my liking


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I got an Easy Wood parting tool for Christmas. It has good chip clearance and doesn't seem to bind at all. Also, their customer service is incredible.


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## dartman (Oct 12, 2012)

john lucas said:


> The old butcher knives from the fifties that were wider at the top make great parting tools. My favorite thin parting tool is a drywall cutting saw that I bought for 50 cents. Ground the teeth off and shaped it to my liking



Thats what I'm talking about.......


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