# Dining table slab in progress (pics)



## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Hi, I'm new here and I've submitted my introduction and I hope you all find it satisfactory. Now as I promised in that introduction I will post up my first wood working project fiasco. This all started when my wife found a picture of a live edge table on the internet for somewhere in the range of 2,500 dollars. I made the ridiculous statement that, "I could build that for half that cost." Well here I am. I have a hard maple burl book matched slab in the garage, with an orbital sander. It's going rough so far, but it's fun nonetheless. 

This is how it all started, looks promising.









Since the pieces each have one large end and one slim end I've decided to flip them so that each end would have a large and small portion for some sort of symmetry.

Here I've started working some of the saw marks out. Sawdust in coffee isn't so bad.









Tyson is not impressed









Grain is just starting to show and I'm starting to realize how beautiful these pieces are.









One top of one slab halfway complete.









Close up of the burl (I think that is what this is)









I've realized that a belt sander is going to be needed if I'm to finish this before Christmas. So I'm looking around for one.

Also, some parts of the table are thin in width due to the crazy live edge. I'm thinking of adding a 2" x 5" wide x 72" piece down the center, maybe cypress. All connected with walnut dutchman joints. Anyone have any advice or comments? Whatever you'd like to throw out there I'm all ears. I think this is hard maple with burl, if I heard the man correct that I bought these pieces from.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Yea it's a burl. And its beautiful. Looks like your doing a fine job sanding it out. I think flipping it end for end is a good idea. How wide will it be?
How are you going to join the two slabs together? Do you have a jointer? I can't wait to see more.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

BEAUTIFUL FIND!

I'm building a similar piece in black walnut myself. I've built 2 in 2 piece and am working on a 3rd, in a 3 piece setup that will be 44" wide. 
What I've found in previous projects is that 36" is like a minimum width for sitting a turkey in the center and being able to eat around it. Gotta think about food placement. You should be able to seat 6. 2 ft per person.
I would widen it out to ~40" minimum. If I could and (personally) would try to stick with the same species of wood.
Also what I've found on these wild grains is they want to stay alive and move on you after finished, unlike their straight grained cousins. They need good support below. I have been using 1 1/4" tube steel bolded with lag bolts to the underside and the ends still try and twist or cup. They need to be dried down to ~8% or less as well.
Lastly you will save yourself a LOT of labor if you can find someone with a planer. It does 2 things. It makes sure all boards are equal thickness when you mount them to a base or frame, but secondly it will cut your sanding time in far less than 1/2.

Beautiful project and nice slabs. Depending on what you've spent on the wood, you shouldn't have over a few hundred $'s in finishing.


You can see my walnut tables on my site, in the "Projects" and "For Sale" section. The underside shot in the "Projects" section will give you an idea I use for underside support. (Elsje Table)
http://gnarlywooddesigns.weebly.com/


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

When flipped for symmetry it will be 36" at the widest and in the mid to low 20's" at the minimum. That's why I want to add another piece in the center. I was thinking of doweling and gluing all three together. I do not have a joiner. I have very minimal wood working tools, this is my very first project.

aardvark: The wood is really dry. The person I bought them from kiln dried both pieces. As for support, I've been wondering about how I would do that. The legs I want to use will be 3" wide steel in a loop with 7-8 attachment points. Hard to explain. 

I will check out looking for someone with a planer. I doubt I can do all four sides the same way I did that one piece. The wood ran me 250, which I didn't think was too bad.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Dom.See the subwoofer build by Howard?
I'm considering it.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

This was what my wife saw, and what I want to do with the legs. Wife sortof insists on it. A guy on here did a redwood table with legs similar. I'd love to see his plans and how he went about getting them fabricated


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

I'm also a minimalist with tools, and I'll tell you straight up, you don't need to join them, and if you do, they will try and separate.
Wild grains never seem to calm down for me. If someone has a trick to keep em under control, I have't heard it yet.
Gap em a shade. I use a 1/2" gap and on the 3 piecer I'm doing something a little different and running sweeping lines and a 3/8" gap. Basically all I used was a circular saw and a good straight edge to get them close.
Take a look at the site...you'll see what I mean.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Nice pix of someones table, in walnut.
Yours will be more beautiful. I see it coming.
I've never learned to post pix's ...sorry.

Do you know the moisture content? Lowes sells a meter for ~$40.oo


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

The legs can be done by a steel shop. If you add steel tube framing underneath it will all match.I also paint the underside (unfinished) with flat black latex as a sealer, so it all matches. Height should be a total of 27-28"

Yeah I remember that table with the metal legs. Powder coated paint.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Good price on kiln dried wood like that. 
I pay less but dry my own.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I was thinking of the two legs connected by an I beam down the center with ribs coming towards the edge every few feet. No idea how much that would be, but it's gotta be done. He told me the moisture content was below 10% and he came very highly recommended from lots of people. It seems dry as a bone while sanding into it. I put a little alcohol on one of those pictures to pop the grain out.

So I don't need to completely finish the underside?? Thank god! I'd heard you needed to finish both sides.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

You just seal the underside, and some will say that isn't necessary in a stable environment. I plane one side and leave the underside raw, and then immediately start mounting steel and sealing the wood.
I do it with flat black latex just to look semi finished. It matches the steel I install, since I prime and paint it black with spray bombs.

I just did a similar thing with I beams but instead used 1 1/4" square tube steel, 14 ga., and drilled it for 3/8" lag bolts. The steel frame cost me $70.oo in materials for a rectangled frame with 2 extra cross braces It;s 53" x 31". The welding cost me another $50.oo, and I did my own drilling for the bolts.
Total (w/o legs) will be ~$120 in support framing.


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## jlmarta (Jul 29, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> When flipped for symmetry it will be 36" at the widest and in the mid to low 20's" at the minimum. That's why I want to add another piece in the center. I was thinking of doweling and gluing all three together. I do not have a joiner. I have very minimal wood working tools, this is my very first project.
> 
> aardvark: The wood is really dry. The person I bought them from kiln dried both pieces. As for support, I've been wondering about how I would do that. The legs I want to use will be 3" wide steel in a loop with 7-8 attachment points. Hard to explain.
> 
> I will check out looking for someone with a planer. I doubt I can do all four sides the same way I did that one piece. The wood ran me 250, which I didn't think was too bad.


I, too, heartily recommend the planer. But if you go the belt sander route, keep one rule in mind: Always keep that puppy moving! Stop for just a second and it'll dig itself a trench. I speak from earlier experience (lots earlier).


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

I'm no expert here, but when I did my walnut slab, it was recommended that I seal the underside. I did and it was a good way to practice my technique for the top. In my slab I had a crack that needed butterfly joints and I chose to do so on the bottom of my slab and do them out of steel. 

You mention legs with an i-beam. I chose 1/4" steel plate that I had fabricated into an "L" shape which I inverted. I then found a piece of figured walnut to use a spreader between the plate steel legs. The steel legs were powder coated black. I wanted to create a bomb proof surface that if kicked wouldn't scratch - thus the powder coating.

My table turned out really well and was worth all the effort. Your's looks like it will be a beautiful piece.


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## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

That's some beautiful wood! I'm wanting to make a table of my own now, but i'm not sure if the walnut slabs I have are large enough. 

one thing I might mention however, like previously said, a planer will be worth you're while on this project, maybe a friend has one you can use? But sanding will get the job done. Since it's so much sanding though, make sure you wear a mask, and kick your dogs outside or into the house. It's just as bad for them as it is for you. I lock my dog out whenever I do any wood working, but man does she love laying in the pile of sawdust when I let her back in lol.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I've had someone close offer to let me use their dual drum sander, I'm gonna take them up on it. They will be dead flat and straight. 

JB, thats a good point. There are a few cracks on the underside that I could practice the butterfly joints on. I can test the finish under there too. Thanks for all the help everyone.


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## Horatio (Apr 4, 2012)

That's going to look fantastic when complete!

Sawdust in the coffee is like extra fiber....its good for you.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

That is some beautiful wood you have there. Your table will be much nicer than the one your wife liked. You could use a maple center section for similar grain and color, but it might also be nice with cherry or walnut for contrast. I like your idea for dutchman (butterfly?) joints. Before you posted the legs you are thinking about I was going to suggest checking out trestle tables for a support option. Here are some examples:
http://www.google.com/search?q=tres...K-ioyAH7voDYAw&ved=0CEoQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=1027

Look forward to seeing this come together.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Alot of base design depends on where the table is going.
Trestle is ok in a country or average home interior. Then it changes up big time when you get into modern/contemporary.

I still suggest the planer, if you can locate someone with one that will handle 24" wide. It makes both (or all 3) boards even and the exact same thickness out of the gate. That's a big consideration when installing a base and having the top surfaces flat across the boards. All match perfectly that way. Then the sanding and finishing time is cut in a 3rd.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Nice boards. As another reply stated, I would not attempt to glue together. These will look terrific if joined by bowtie's, especially if you use a contrasting wood.

I have lots of scraps if you want some walnut, purpleheart or bubinga for the bowties.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> Nice boards. As another reply stated, I would not attempt to glue together. These will look terrific if joined by bowtie's, especially if you use a contrasting wood.
> 
> I have lots of scraps if you want some walnut, purpleheart or bubinga for the bowties.


I was wanting to use walnut for the bowties, that's exactly what I had in mind. They'll have to be staggered and I'll need around 10-12 bowties for for the joining and for some small cracks. I'd gladly pay you for them! I appreciate you offering them up.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Love it, keep up the good work.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

I'll echo what Shop Dad said when he suggested you use a darker wood in the center. I'm partial to highly figured walnut, but you might want to go with something that won't take your eye away from that beautiful maple too much. 

Since I'm happily offering unsolicited opinions :yes: - I'll add the following on the size of the table. Mine is 104" x 60" and it very comfortably seats eight and can take ten in a pinch. The width is great because you can do family style platters down the center and still have loads of room between people. My last two tables have been 48" x 96" they were a perfect size for eight diners as well.

Be careful on how beautiful you make this table. Your wife may look at it and tell you that your chairs don't go with it and that you'll have to get new ones. I won't bother to go into how well I understand this scenario. :laughing:


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## TooPicky (Apr 12, 2009)

I'm wondering, if these 2 pieces are flipped, they are no longer book matched, no? I would also vote for finishing top, bottom, and sides. That was what I was taught to do if you really want to avoid movement..


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

JB97031 said:


> I'll echo what Shop Dad said when he suggested you use a darker wood in the center. I'm partial to highly figured walnut, but you might want to go with something that won't take your eye away from that beautiful maple too much.
> 
> Since I'm happily offering unsolicited opinions :yes: - I'll add the following on the size of the table. Mine is 104" x 60" and it very comfortably seats eight and can take ten in a pinch. The width is great because you can do family style platters down the center and still have loads of room between people. My last two tables have been 48" x 96" they were a perfect size for eight diners as well.
> 
> Be careful on how beautiful you make this table. Your wife may look at it and tell you that your chairs don't go with it and that you'll have to get new ones. I won't bother to go into how well I understand this scenario. :laughing:


We will definitely need new chairs. Ours are falling apart. I've been searching local ads on craigslist and I've came up on a place that sells un-upholstered chairs for a good deal. 

I'll need to sit 6 with this table. Our dining area just can't support a huge table for 8 or 10. I wish!

@Toopicky: I've decided to finish both sides completely, if only to get practice on the bottom half with bowties and test the finish. 
With the sides being flipped they arent bookmatched anymore, you're correct. But to keep some sort of symmetry I see no other way. I'm going to a planer soon and I'll know more on the grain patterns. But I'm thinking ahead that it wont match completely. I'm ok with it.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> We will definitely need new chairs. Ours are falling apart. I've been searching local ads on craigslist and I've came up on a place that sells un-upholstered chairs for a good deal.


I did the CL search for about three months until I found what I was looking for. If you go to my photos I have an album on "chairs" that tells my story. If I thought my table was $$$ I was stunned by what you can spend for chairs. Most of the stuff finished for under $500. a chair is junk and won't last - nor will it do your table justice. Look on the bright side - at least it's only six chairs which will save you money. :laughing:


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Those chairs go great with that table. I had read through that entire build thread before I registered here, it didn't dawn on me that it was you I was talking to until just now. Great job on that table, what a beautiful piece!!


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## scsmith42 (Jan 24, 2011)

Sarge, I'm located about an hour east of you, and have a 25" jointer/planer that will flatten and dimension those slabs in no time. Drop me a line if the double drum sander does not work out.

Scott


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

scsmith42 said:


> Sarge, I'm located about an hour east of you, and have a 25" jointer/planer that will flatten and dimension those slabs in no time. Drop me a line if the double drum sander does not work out.
> 
> Scott


Scott I appreciate that. I'm surprised so far at how everyone I've met in the woodworking community has been so generous to offer advice and help. If something doesn't go through I'll be sure to contact you. Thanks!


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## TooPicky (Apr 12, 2009)

> I've decided to finish both sides completely, if only to get practice on the bottom half with bowties and test the finish.
> With the sides being flipped they arent bookmatched anymore, you're correct.


Cool idea with the bow ties. How'r you going to do that? I was just Curious about the book match thing. I saw the photos, and I would have flipped it too. No one needs a table with a huge taper in it, LOL.


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## Bill White 2 (Jun 23, 2012)

Wide belt sander will not tear out like a planer. Cabinet shop in your area?
Bill


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## yellabret (Aug 20, 2012)

i found a door maker that has a 50+" sander, he offered to sand down a slab at $25 each, not bad considering its done in minutes. otherwise i use hand power planer then belt sander, but for a dining table or bar i would want it much flatter. good stuff you got there sarge - keep it up!


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Looking at picking up a few 2"x5"x8' pieces this weekend to see what looks good in the center, then more pics will be coming. I'm doing some sanding on the sides. It's a tedious process with all those twists and turns. A few cracks showed up, nothing major though.


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## scsmith42 (Jan 24, 2011)

Bill White said:


> Wide belt sander will not tear out like a planer. Cabinet shop in your area?
> Bill


 
Mine is a carbide insert model, and usually does fairly well on figured woods. I have a 37" WBS available as well if the jointer/planer does not work out.


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## scsmith42 (Jan 24, 2011)

USMCSergeant said:


> Scott I appreciate that. I'm surprised so far at how everyone I've met in the woodworking community has been so generous to offer advice and help. If something doesn't go through I'll be sure to contact you. Thanks!


 
It's a good group. Bill C. knows the way to my shop, in case his double drum struggles with your slabs.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> I was wanting to use walnut for the bowties, that's exactly what I had in mind. They'll have to be staggered and I'll need around 10-12 bowties for for the joining and for some small cracks. I'd gladly pay you for them! I appreciate you offering them up.


I am happy if I can help. I love to see the small pieces find a good home and not become fuel.

I am not able to send you a PM yet, since you do not have enough posts.

What do you think the approximate size of the bowties will be?

I can then start digging through my scraps.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> I am happy if I can help. I love to see the small pieces find a good home and not become fuel.
> 
> I am not able to send you a PM yet, since you do not have enough posts.
> 
> ...


My best guess is that I'll use 5-6, 2" wide x1" thick and 3-4, 1" wide x1" thick for some small cracks

I haven't measured it out yet, I need to get that center piece.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I had those slabs planed today by a generous guy i just met. They still need a few more passes. Starting to look good though. I picked up a 8 inch wide ambrosia maple piece I plan on cutting to 5" wide and use 1/2" walnut strips on either side. More work on it this weekend. No pics just yet, the planer needed all the attention.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> My best guess is that I'll use 5-6, 2" wide x1" thick and 3-4, 1" wide x1" thick for some small cracks
> 
> I haven't measured it out yet, I need to get that center piece.


Thanks, this is good to allow me to start looking through the scraps.

If I do not have enough scraps, I have a stash of walnut which are boards from a friends tree which fell in a storm and was harvested into boards.

So this is a true recycled tree. I will be happy for any use of the wood for a future project.

I have 5/4 boards which will give you the finished 1in depth.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> Thanks, this is good to allow me to start looking through the scraps.
> 
> If I do not have enough scraps, I have a stash of walnut which are boards from a friends tree which fell in a storm and was harvested into boards.
> 
> ...


I appreciate any that you can spare, it's extremely generous of you to offer.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I looked through my scraps, I have a number of pieces, but not particularly good grain.

How about this piece?









Almost 15 in long, 6 in wide and 1 3/16 thick.

You can see the remains of a knot on the left, small knot at the 4in mark.

Do you have the tools to cut this into the bowties, or do you want me to cut into the 1in strips. Let me know if you want the single piece, or assistance with the cutting.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

That piece will be perfect. I can cut it up. Again, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> That piece will be perfect. I can cut it up. Again, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!


PM sent. I will cut off the curved area to make it easier to ship.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I received your package Dave, thanks again!


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Well I got a bit done today. I picked up some more walnut from the hardwood store and decided to get something done. 

Gluing the walnut onto the center piece using tow straps:








That actually worked really well. 

All three pieces together and planing down the walnut pieces:









Planing finished. I really enjoyed hand planing, it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.









Made the cuts for length at a 45 degree angle:









This weekend the glue up of all pieces is coming. Then epoxy work, finish sanding and within the next few weeks finishing... Finally starting to look like a table.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I'm really liking this table. It's beautiful. I also notice the VW in the drive. Is it a jetta or passat?
Just curious on how you like it. 
I just got the wife a jetta tdi.
Another thing, just wondering if you still plan on adding bow ties?


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

It's going to be a stunning table! Great job so far.

Bret


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

That is looking fantastic! Great progress.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Dominick said:


> I'm really liking this table. It's beautiful. I also notice the VW in the drive. Is it a jetta or passat?
> Just curious on how you like it.
> I just got the wife a jetta tdi.
> Another thing, just wondering if you still plan on adding bow ties?


Thanks bro. It's a passat, my wife loves it.
Yeah still planning on bowties, I'm gonna be marking the locations for them this weekend and if I have time start cutting them in.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Lola Ranch said:


> It's going to be a stunning table! Great job so far.
> 
> Bret


Thank you


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> That is looking fantastic! Great progress.


Appreciate it!


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

Did you figure out the legs yet?


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Looks like I'll be welding the legs in two weeks. Large steel plates underneath the table around 20"x6" with 3 inch plate legs in a U pattern.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

USMCSergeant said:


> Looks like I'll be welding the legs in two weeks. Large steel plates underneath the table around 20"x6" with 3 inch plate legs in a U pattern.


Oh now you ruined it!!!! adding all that steel. Lol
Hahahahaha kidding. I'm not a big fan of using steel in my furniture. I sometimes think it takes away from the hand craftsmanship. But some people like that look. I'm sure it will look striking when done. Please keep on keepin on.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Back finally, sorry for the wait.

I decided on doweling and gluing the pieces together









It was a time consuming and difficult process. I went with 3/8's dowels.










Here she is all strapped together










I did some light epoxy work on the bottom side, nothing interesting to show. To color the epoxy dark I used coffee grounds. Gives a nice dark color.
Once the table is closer to finishing there will be lots of pics with the epoxy mix to show. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks we'll have a finished table.
Work has been crazy lately, I haven't had much time to get things done, my goal for a complete table with legs is thanksgiving.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I've put the bowties in:










Planed and sanded down:










Overal shot so far:










It's sanded to 220 all over. Looking great so far. All that is left is to sand to 320, and then shellac and poly. Almost there

On an unrelated not, my awesome dad bought me this for Christmas, huge surprise!










Anyone have experience with this particular saw?


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Welcome back. I almost forgot about this build. 
It's looking good. Keep up the good work.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

BTW the garage has been thoroughly cleaned since the shot of the table saw. LOL


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

Wow! How did I miss this build... That looks GREAT


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

table looks great . im curious why the bowties ? are they cosmetic ?


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Purely cosmetic, the three pieces are secured together using 3/8" dowels and glue. My wife found a table online and she liked with the bowtie look, the inspiration for this table, and so the bowties were a must with her. I like them too though.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Wow! How did I miss this build... That looks GREAT


Thanks!


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Beautiful tabletop. The bow ties look great!


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

rayking49 said:


> Beautiful tabletop. The bow ties look great!


Thanks. I stressed a lot over those little things. Cut probably 30 out on the bandsaw before I found a few I liked. Tearout was a major issue on the maple if you chiseled a certain way.


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

USMCSergeant said:


> This was what my wife saw, and what I want to do with the legs. Wife sortof insists on it. A guy on here did a redwood table with legs similar. I'd love to see his plans and how he went about getting them fabricated


You might consider picking up a small wire welder. Then you can fabricate the base yourself. Working with metal is very similar to working with wood and metalwork can transform some of your projects. Here's a dining table I made...


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

That's a beautiful table. At one time I had a small MIG welder - gas-less version with flux core wire. Never got really good at welding, but didn't practice much either. I think that's a good idea though. I see them a lot on craigslist, shouldn't be too hard picking one up. But for now my dad has a nice one, I may borrow it for a bit.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I've decided to make the legs myself. Picked up a used lincoln welder and an argon mix tank. Tomorrow I'm picking up the materials. 3/16 steel. 

Practiced making a good bead today.

A little rough










In progress











A little better











It's been years since I've done this stuff.

Here's the welder I have now











Legs coming soon!


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## jlperrigan (Dec 7, 2012)

awesome build, i love this type of furniture, just not a lot of mills in my area doing that type of cutting. so its rare i get to have that type of material.loce your work, looking forward to more from from you.


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

Keep practicing. You either become a good welder or a good grinder. Once you are finished, you can use bondo or spot putty to smooth out the welds and make them almost invisible.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

HAHA, yeah I think I'll be a good grinder after this build. The welds are very strong and to me that's all that matters. With the table material I'm planning on grinding more of a bevel so that the weld isn't so proud and will help penetrate deeper.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

One of two top plates being cut. 22" x 12"











All material set up and waiting


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Now that the table is relatively close to being done with sanding, my wife has decided she likes the look of it natural. So there's a kink in our plans. I'm guessing the best way to finish now would be water based poly? Is that all I'll need to protect the table? I imagine it will take some abuse as a dining table.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Are you talking about the legs?


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Da Aardvark said:


> Are you talking about the legs?


The pics above are about legs yes. The natural finish is about the top itself. Water based poly or is anything else needed to protect the table?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

USMCSergeant said:


> The pics above are about legs yes. The natural finish is about the top itself. Water based poly or is anything else needed to protect the table?


Your whole build was a class act. While I'm not into bow ties, they look good with your overall design. You could use a WB poly, but use one that's suitable for flooring, *like this*. You could also get some grain enhancement first by doing a wipe of 50/50 BLO and mineral spirits. When that cures, start with the waterbase polyurethane. If you have a scrap piece, definitely do a sample first, and add the topcoat, as that will also change the look.

Preferably it works best when sprayed, and don't let it puddle or pool, use thin applications. Many of those types of tops are being coated with a pour on epoxy, if you like that look. I would only use an oil base polyurethane if you could keep it dust free, and can live with the stink and long dry times.








 







.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

USMCSergeant said:


> On an unrelated not, my awesome dad bought me this for Christmas, huge surprise!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have what looks like the same saw. Works fine in rip mode, the miter gauge is a disaster, doesn't fit the slot well. Works ok on stuff up to 1 to 1-1/2 inch thick, depending on what you're sawing. A sled would solve the crosscut problem; I just use the SCMS for that. YMMV.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> Your whole build was a class act. While I'm not into bow ties, they look good with your overall design. You could use a WB poly, but use one that's suitable for flooring, *like this*. You could also get some grain enhancement first by doing a wipe of 50/50 BLO and mineral spirits. When that cures, start with the waterbase polyurethane. If you have a scrap piece, definitely do a sample first, and add the topcoat, as that will also change the look.
> 
> Preferably it works best when sprayed, and don't let it puddle or pool, use thin applications. Many of those types of tops are being coated with a pour on epoxy, if you like that look. I would only use an oil base polyurethane if you could keep it dust free, and can live with the stink and long dry times.


Thanks for your kind reply. I'm guessing BLO is boiled linseed oil? Will the top keep it's natural appearance and not yellow too much?

I did a smaller table with shellac and it really darkened the entire piece, just too dark for me. I want to keep it as natural as I can, but I wouldn't mind some grain enhancement with all that beautiful burl.

I've also heard that water based poly was easier to apply that oil based poly, I havent had great results with oil based poly on earlier projects. Too many tiny bubbles and streaks.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Alchymist said:


> Have what looks like the same saw. Works fine in rip mode, the miter gauge is a disaster, doesn't fit the slot well. Works ok on stuff up to 1 to 1-1/2 inch thick, depending on what you're sawing. A sled would solve the crosscut problem; I just use the SCMS for that. YMMV.


The miter guage is complete crap I agree. It's non standard size and has a weird cut into it. Making a sled would be difficult. The miter handle is way too small and doesn't really do much. I think I'm going to add a large thin block of wood to it for more surface area. I actually like the fence, it's sturdy when I'm not using it on the extended sides.

I have made cuts on 8/4 ambrosia maple and the saw did great during rips. Next month I'll be cutting 8/4 walnut and I'm wondering how the saw will take that.


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## Tilaran (Dec 22, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> I've put the bowties in:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your dad is wise. He has already figured out what you'll be doing after the soldier thang.:yes:
Nice work.
Your wife needs to start searching china cabinets :thumbsup:


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

My wife has peculiar taste. She picks out things online she wants built and they seem to me to be extremely complicated/modern. It's quite an amazing skill that she can pick the exact opposite of somthing I'd like to make. Haha


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## jlperrigan (Dec 7, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> My wife has peculiar taste. She picks out things online she wants built and they seem to me to be extremely complicated/modern. It's quite an amazing skill that she can pick the exact opposite of somthing I'd like to make. Haha


my wife is the same way, she is an expert at picking things that I'm not very fond of building. But is there a more important client than that?


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Well, I agree with a clear coat, and I use exclusively sprayed on water based poly on my live edge products. They are durable after (oh say) a month, after the finish cures well. What I do do though to punchout the grains and make them stand out (better than any oil samples I've ever done) is first coat with either lacquer or epoxy. For some reason, it pops the grain and coloring of the natural wood.
Deft spray can lacquer works well for first coat.
Then I go over the surface with w/b poly generally in a high gloss, (with maybe 6 coats) since it has no solids that will fog out the grains. Finally the 2 last spray coats will be the desired sheen. I've put coins and feathers in the surface before and you definitely see a difference to the point you cannot read the coin dates when a satin coat goes over them, so the solids in a poly have a definite effect in blocking clarity. I don't much like a hi-gloss finish myself, so I use satins or semi-gloss ONLY for final coats, and on some items (like the coin dates) I have to only use hi-gloss. 

(Sometimes I put coins in in epoxy to denote a build date, or age of the tree it came from)


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## jlperrigan (Dec 7, 2012)

Da Aardvark said:


> Well, I agree with a clear coat, and I use exclusively sprayed on water based poly on my live edge products. They are durable after (oh say) a month, after the finish cures well. What I do do though to punchout the grains and make them stand out (better than any oil samples I've ever done) is first coat with either lacquer or epoxy. For some reason, it pops the grain and coloring of the natural wood.
> Deft spray can lacquer works well for first coat.
> Then I go over the surface with w/b poly generally in a high gloss, (with maybe 6 coats) since it has no solids that will fog out the grains. Finally the 2 last spray coats will be the desired sheen. I've put coins and feathers in the surface before and you definitely see a difference to the point you cannot read the coin dates when a satin coat goes over them, so the solids in a poly have a definite effect in blocking clarity. I don't much like a hi-gloss finish myself, so I use satins or semi-gloss ONLY for final coats, and on some items (like the coin dates) I have to only use hi-gloss.
> 
> (Sometimes I put coins in in epoxy to denote a build date, or age of the tree it came from)


Awesome idea on the coins, I've never thought of that before.


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## tseitz11 (Dec 19, 2012)

That is table is absolutely beautiful. I really like the 45's on the ends.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

It's been a long couple of days. Beveling steel, welding, grinding, more welding, painting, screwing, broken bits.... but legs are finally on.

Here is the inspiration pic that my wife found and what I was going for with the design









Getting things square by myself was tough, especially when things would move when they got hot.










One set done










Welding 3/16" was difficult, it often took several passes










Starting paint, and Tyson decided to have his portrait done for efficiency.










Screwed in, and holes have room for movement if necessary for humidity changes.










Compare this with the inspiration pic, I was surprised how well that turned out.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I really love the top slabs, but have to be honest I'm not a fan of the base. But that's what makes us different. 
I still think your doing a great job on it with a picture description.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I'd rather have wood legs too, but gotta make my wife happy.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

USMCSergeant said:


> I'd rather have wood legs too, but gotta make my wife happy.


Your a good man, but who's the builder? Do you tell her how her hair should be done and what color nail polish you use? Just saying. Lol
Just messin w/ ya


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

seems like it would need corner braces....


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

GROOVY said:


> seems like it would need corner braces....


On the bottom?


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Contemoprary.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I'm not liking these legs. They are stable, just too thin. I'm going to re weld in 3/8" instead of 3/16"


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> Welding 3/16" was difficult, it often took several passes


Looks to me like the welder needed to be turned up higher, welding 3/16 should be pretty easy for almost any welder set correctly.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

It was on the highest setting. Wire speed very low. I'm just new to it, learning as I go.


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## hays0369 (May 3, 2011)

Just found this thread. Very nice work, I sure hope my wife doesn't look over my shoulder when keeping up with this thread or I might be repeating this. Can't wait to see more.

Semper Fi,
Brad


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Semper Fi Brad! I think you'd enjoy it, even though it's taken me months to get to this point, I've had a lot of fun.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Weld issues this weekend. Liner rated for .030, wire needs to be .035, I'll be getting a new liner asap. I'll start finishing this week too I hope. Sorry for the slow progress. It seems things are working against me as of late.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

What model welder do you have?


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Lincoln 100


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## mn pete (Dec 10, 2010)

I just went through the whole thread. How did I miss this one? Very cool build! I really like the design and the you've done a great job with the top.

I'd like to get into some metal work at some point. Never welded or cut any metal before, other than cutting some sheet metal. :laughing:


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Thanks mn pete. I'm not that experienced with metal either, but the only way to learn is to jump in and do it.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

After needing a new gun liner for .035 wire, I've welded a leg of 3/8" onto a 1/4 inch plate. I have read with my welder type and it being a mini gun that it wouldn't work. But it seems to be a very stable weld. I used flux core wire for the first time. I was so used to having to run shielding gas and I was skeptical. But the setup was faster, reversed the welder polarity and went at it. Didn't leave bad looking beads and ran smooth.

This one doesn't look great, it was the third pass and I was just filling holes..



















I beveled the 3/8 piece quite a bit and left a V to put the bead in. I heated up both parts before I welded and I'm happy with it. Once it was welded and cooled I took a small sledge and hit it from different angles at times very hard with a block of wood in between and nothing moved. Take that welding pros. LOL


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Went with thinned de waxed shellac and one coat of poly so far.


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## yellabret (Aug 20, 2012)

i have been following this thread for months, lovely chunk of wood you have there. i am just not a fan of mixing media - that said, i do have a really nice pecan slab mounted on andirons - but the andirons are old and rustic. they work with the wood well.

but you have a really nice slab, trying to match it with new fabricated metal is too big of a clash for me. i have never been able to accept the combination of new fabricated metal and slab wood.

maybe its just just me - but i would ditch all the metal and make a wood base/legs. your slab(s) deserve it. its like Beyonce trying to sing a Beatles song - they are fine in their own time but they just cant work together.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Finally finished. Thanks everyone for the advice and encouragement.


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## mn pete (Dec 10, 2010)

Man! That's a beaut! :thumbsup:


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Yup! It is.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Oh man what a good looking table. I'm glad to see this thread come to fruition. Post more detailed photos please!:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

On the metal base you used.
It's a good contemporary fit.

It wouldn't fit in a country home or a log cabin setting, unless using some older metals like wagon wheels or cast iron bases, but it doesn't look like your home is either of those.

My father has issues with me using metals in my live edge furniture that i do. Yet it's all a matter of which style and effect you are shooting for.
Wood can be contemporary and a mix is done all the time yet metals/fabric/block/tile/etc can be mixed. There is a rule in art and architecture to not mix more than 3 colors or mediums, otherwise it starts looking cluttered. 2 colors/mediums are better, but some still like monotone.
Now I wil say, they are the rules but we break them all the time.
I got flack once for using a walnut live edged bark on top with maple legs, because the woods differed. Oh well, you can't please everyone.

My own home is a "extreme contemporary". Many greys and blues in the basic house interior. This makes furniture purchases very hard. Thus I make much of my own and I also incorporate in specific antiques. It works.
Interior decorators/designers are looking for a crossover like you show here. 

Good mix.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Regarding the live edge top and metal base, I am also on board with this. I don't see it as a battle of traditional/rustic with modern design. Instead, I see them metal base as a way of focusing the attention on the top. The legs are straight, simple, and black. The top of the table is the main act, so these legs just bow out of the spotlight and are only vaguely noticed in your peripheral vision as "some legs" under a remarkable top. In this way, the simple metal legs are doing a service of holding the the top up while also deliberately remaining light, functional, and discrete. 

I am an artist and make frames for my flat work, but I keep the frames simple. Sure, I could do some inlays and routed profiles, but I that isn't the role that I want the frame to play. Like the legs of the table, my frames get the supporting role. They serve their purpose, are well crafted, functional, and don't attract/distract attention.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Da Aardvark said:


> On the metal base you used.
> It's a good contemporary fit.
> 
> It wouldn't fit in a country home or a log cabin setting, unless using some older metals like wagon wheels or cast iron bases, but it doesn't look like your home is either of those.
> ...


Our house is full of Grey and blue also, our living/dining room is a grey-blue mix. Thanks for validating what I see, I was wondering if I just had bad taste, haha


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Here are a couple more


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Grain movement


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

One more


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Very nice. I like the way it turned out. Metal and all. Looks good in that room. Love the top.


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## preacherman (Nov 29, 2011)

Thats a beautiful table! I like that alot!


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## Seth (Mar 23, 2010)

....


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## Seth (Mar 23, 2010)

Sorry about the previous response...app is acting weird. What I was trying to say was, it's beautiful. Great job!


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Nope. USMC
I think your tastes are just fine.
Many just don't appreciate modern. In my case ultra contemporary.
I appreciate and design all styles (I'm an architect and design em) but my favorite for me is what I own and built.
We're selling and it breaks my heart to leave it. But I'll start over.

My Living Room is similar. Dark blue carpet and 1 wall, with multiple greys on the walls and dark grey painted trim. In those colors, woods stand out big time, since that's where the real colors come from. The room is just the pallet we set up for the decorating.

When many think of a "live edge" project, the first thing that comes to mind is rustic or cabinesque like styles, but if you look through this site, you will find many have incorporated in modern mindsets to them. Many use metals. I've even made a engine block coffee tables, for a "Man Cave". Thinking of using a crankcase for a lighting fixture with a wood base.

Revel in your table.
Heres my live edge site.

http://gnarlywooddesigns.weebly.com/


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## tseitz11 (Dec 19, 2012)

That is a beautiful piece. Contrary to what many think, I love how you did the legs. I am a fan of modern and contemporary and think it looks awesome. Great job.


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## TerryZ (Jul 13, 2012)

Great looking table. I love using bow ties just for the aesthetics. I'm not in to metal myself. Probably would have done a couple of pedestals but to each his own. I damage myself too much with my wood machines so don't want to add welding to the mix. I've been using coins on my projects for years. I try to find a penny from the current year and then I also have some brass coins I made with my initials inside a saw blade. I tell my customers the penny's for good luck and the brass coin is my trademark. Again, good job.


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

that beautiful finish is only 1 coat of dewaxed shellac and 1 coat of polyurethane ? 

oil based poly or water based ?


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

bob sacamano said:


> that beautiful finish is only 1 coat of dewaxed shellac and 1 coat of polyurethane ?
> 
> oil based poly or water based ?


Sorry I should have went into more detail with this. It's 2 coats of de waxed shellac, bullseye brand, sanding in between with 400 grit. I thinned 
Poly to about 1/2 thickness and wiped on 6 coats, rubbed out the last finish with 0000 steel wool with water and soap.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

TerryZ said:


> Great looking table. I love using bow ties just for the aesthetics. I'm not in to metal myself. Probably would have done a couple of pedestals but to each his own. I damage myself too much with my wood machines so don't want to add welding to the mix. I've been using coins on my projects for years. I try to find a penny from the current year and then I also have some brass coins I made with my initials inside a saw blade. I tell my customers the penny's for good luck and the brass coin is my trademark. Again, good job.


I've been think about putting a penny in the bottom and signing my name in case this lasts long enough to be passed down.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Da Aardvark said:


> Nope. USMC
> I think your tastes are just fine.
> Many just don't appreciate modern. In my case ultra contemporary.
> I appreciate and design all styles (I'm an architect and design em) but my favorite for me is what I own and built.
> ...


Thanks again! I like the stuff on your web page, you have talent!

A friend of mine is a small business owner, very talented with a history in marketing and web design. He's trying to talk me into an LLC, and to make tables part time. He also has a contact that has a furniture showroom, and that person has expressed interest in showing these tables in his business. I'm just not sure i have the skills to make tables for that purpose, or that I'd be confident enough to put them in a showroom. This was my first project with wood after all. Tough decision.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Thanks.
You have an eye for it. 

Yeah USMC I'm in the business but here in the Chicago area but currently my stuff is not selling well. Economy and location, as well as my lack of proper marketing, I guess. 
I've only been at it 1+ year. We are moving outside of Asheville which has a hi-end tourist market and many specialty stores. I;m hoping to bail from architecture (which is also failing here).

For full time you need buyers and the ability to make a descent profit off of the hours you put in. You also need the material cost to come in very reasonable. 
Hours + Materials + shop expenses + profit margin = end price. Then you need to see if there is a market at that pricing.
I've sped up the processes and kept the bd.ft. price of materials to a minimum.

Good luck


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

USMCSergeant said:


> Sorry I should have went into more detail with this. It's 2 coats of de waxed shellac, bullseye brand, sanding in between with 400 grit. I thinned
> Poly to about 1/2 thickness and wiped on 6 coats, rubbed out the last finish with 0000 steel wool with water and soap.


when you say wipe on - you wiped the finish on and then wiped it off or wipe on a thin coat and let it set ? 

what brand poly did you use? i love the way it looks. 

also - how did you sand in the crevices of the edges ? 

thanks


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

bob sacamano said:


> when you say wipe on - you wiped the finish on and then wiped it off or wipe on a thin coat and let it set ?
> 
> what brand poly did you use? i love the way it looks.
> 
> ...


The poly was minwax fast dry semi gloss. I stirred it well, not violently so that I didn't cause air bubbles and halved it with mineral spirits in a separate container. I used an old t shirt that was lint free as possible and wiped on thin coats and let them dry. I wiped the direction of the grain as smooth as I could. When done with the rags I put them in a bucket of water because apparently they can combust.

The edges took a long time to sand. I had to pull the bark off, and I got into tight spaces the best I could with a sanding block and a sanding sponge. I used a foam brush to get the shellac and poly in the crevices. Hope this helps!


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Da Aardvark said:


> Thanks.
> You have an eye for it.
> 
> Yeah USMC I'm in the business but here in the Chicago area but currently my stuff is not selling well. Economy and location, as well as my lack of proper marketing, I guess.
> ...


When you get to Asheville let me know and we'll have a beer. That area is full of higher income people, and beautiful homes. I love visiting that area in the fall, we try to go every year.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Deal.


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