# making thin tapers on long piece of wood



## Mossanimal (Nov 30, 2009)

Hi....

I make traditional longbows and am trying to find a way to cut consistent tapers on wood that is 1" thick, 2" wide and the taper runs 3' from 1" to 1/4". In my shop I have a radial arm saw, table saw and belt sander. In the past, I've just used the belt sander but it's a lot of work. So.... I have a Rockler taper jig for my table saw, but it doesn't work for the length I need to cut. Any ideas to help me with this?

I would love to have a thickness sander or jointer for this.. but money, as always, is a factor. I'm also trying to find a planer attachment for my 10" Craftsman radial saw...with no luck.

Thanks!


----------



## mdlbldrmatt135 (Dec 6, 2006)

Based on that length you'd almost need to make a set Jig for that taper. It'd be really handy especially if you're making alot of repeat cuts.


----------



## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

When I have a lot of tapers to cut I make one for a pattern then add a lip to one end. Then I take a piece of wood that is several inches wide and put the tapered pattern piece between the wider board and fence. Set the gap to allow for the pattern piece plus the width of the piece you want to cut then pushing them both through the table saw at the same time to cut your pieces. 

Make the first taper cut then take the wide board and flip it end for end and rip again. As you do this you will make a tapered cut on the wide board and the second cut makes the board square again. Continue until you have enough pieces.


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

There are several ways to do it. 

A sled like Niki showed but set up to cut a taper. Just start with a wide piece of stock and then rip the taper off on the out fall side.

You don't say how long the fence is on your RAS. Again a sled to cut a taper.

Use a band saw to get close and then use a straight edge as a guide for a router with a flush trim bit. 

It could be done with the table saw but 

I DON'T RECOMMEND USING THE TABLE SAW FOR THIS TYPE OF CUT.

Or use the straight edge as a guide for a straight bit in the router. Then rip the taper off on the out fall side with the table saw.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I made a taper jig for the table saw*

See this thread: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/taper-jig-instructions-13065/#post102245
See post no. 10
It works fine. Yes, a bandsaw is "safer" but you have to have one.
My jig is made from 2 pieces of 2x2 40" long, a small hinge a drywall screw and a piece of 1/4" ply with a slot. Couldn't be more simple. It will accommodate a 36" long taper. Check it out. :thumbsup: bill
rrich, please don't shout, it hurts my eyes..:laughing:
BTW I would never use a radial arm saw for this proceedure,ripping, since the blade rotation tends to lift the workpiece off the table as opposed to pulling it into the table like a table saw. Flying workpieces and missing fingers....
Table saws come with a "rip" fence.


----------



## Mossanimal (Nov 30, 2009)

Hi... thanks fellas. I have that same Rockler jig that was discussed in the other thread. I do have a table saw for this by the way. Looks like Bill's jig is what I need. Thanks again....


----------



## Skeaterbait (Jul 28, 2009)

Let us know how it works out. I am a bowyer as well and have been fighting the same fight for a year. I even have a drum sander and have not had any luck keeping a consistant taper.

When you need a piece 30+ inches long that is only .05 thick with a consistant .001 or .002 taper, accuracy is paramount.


----------



## Mossanimal (Nov 30, 2009)

I haven't played around with it yet... but I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it. The saw marks left on the wood make it so you have to grind down with a sander anyway. I need a jointer... to do it Dean Torges style.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Not necessarily*

I found a 40T x 10" Freud blade at the Depot for $30.00. Gives a great smooth cut. I would recommend a decent blade first. Delta has a new line reasonably priced as well. the wood must obviously not move at all when in the jig. This calls for a secure hold down. Charles Neil on YouTube has a cool taper jig with cam adjusters for repeatability and aluminum hold downs with screw knobs. a hardwood miter gauge track. 
Maybe I can find the link:


----------

