# Glueing veneer over formica



## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I have an older boat. The bulkheads (walls) have a plastic laminate over a plywood substrate. From 100 yards away, it still looks like wood grained Formica. Get the picture? LOL
I want to cover these walls with a mahogany veneer. Can I just solvent wash and clean with acetone and lightly sand with 80 grit to to break the surface of the laminate and then glue up the veneer?
I will probably use contact cement to glue down the veneer. No guessing please. Has anyone here ever actually done this or do you know first hand of someone that has?
Removing and replacing the bulkheads is not an option.

Thanks in advance

Tony B


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you can't remove the Formica for some reason (you could do it with a heat gun), you can laminate on top of the Formica using the scuff sanding you mentioned. If you clean the surface with either acetone or lacquer thinner, be careful of the edges so as not to cause a delamination of the Formica. I would use a solvent based contact cement. If none of the veneer will be exposed to weather or heat, you should have no problems. You'll have better luck with paper backed veneer.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Cabinetman ?????*

Have you ever done this before? 
I have worked a lot with plastic laminate years ago and it appears that nothing has changed much. I have heard stories of both success and failure in laminating over another laminate. I just never spoke to anyone that personally did it. I think it should work if I use care in the preparation. It's just that its a lot of work if it fails. 
Thanks

Tony B


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've done it too many times to count. You'd be surprised if you knew what I've put veneer on. Anyway, I've given you the critical details which includes what you already knew. Scuff up the mica, clean it, and use solvent based CC. Don't get blobs of glue. If you can spray it even better. You can spray out of a regular syphon cup. If you don't have spray grade (and don't use red), thin brush grade so it'll spray. If you haven't sprayed CC before, practice some first. If you brush or roll it, keep it as smooth as possible. 

Let the glue flash just beyond "tacky". Be careful applying a solvent based finish, like lacquer. It may soften the glue. Oil based stains and water based polyurethane works good. And as I said paper backed veneer works best.

Make sure the mica is stuck good, so you will have a solid substrate to apply veneer. It shouldn't be loose or delaminating.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I'm making another post as you might have already read my answer. Here's another tip. You may not have a good sharp mica to mica edge due to the file angle of the top piece to the vertical piece. When you sand, try to sand the vertical face back to the top so you wind up with a sharp 90 deg edge. It doesn't matter if you sand off the color or pattern. If not there will be a void that the veneer won't stick to.

If the work will be subjected to the weather it isn't a good idea no matter how much finish you apply.

If you're with me so far, I'm sure I forgot something, and we can work out what you want to know.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Cabinetman - THANKS*

Thanks for the info. I feel much better about it now. I just heard so many horror stories and I think they were either A) B.S. or B) poorly prepped, which is where my bet would be. 

I have sprayed a lot of CC but wont be able to inside my boat. The areas are not that big. One area will be about 5' X 5' and after that just a few smaller areas. 

I always buy the spray grade even when I roll it it on. It goes on much thinner and smoother and usually give it 2 coats. Although, I dont think the paper back veneer will need more than one coat. I'll just play that by ear.

Since all of this will be on a vertical surface, I will use polyurethane for a finish and not take a chance with the lacquer and solvents.

All of the areas I will be doing currently have a teak trim or a wrap around moulding of teak. I will rip it off and if it cant be salvaged, which I dont expect it will, I will duplicate the moulding. 
The existing laminate is in excellent shape as is the plywood substrate. It just looks ugly. 

This will be one of many of my winter projects. 

Thanks again

Tony B


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## johnjf0622 (Feb 8, 2008)

Tony,
I agree with cabinetman, I once work in a shop in a boat yard and seen it done before and cabinetman is on the right track. The finish result of the one I saw done looked great. Alot better then the formica.

john


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