# Ultimate Tool Stand / Workbench



## GeeksGoneBad

I've been playing around with the idea of making myself a tool bench that will house my table saw, chop saw, router table, etc... I got the idea from THIS but wanted to custom make it for my stuff and my needs

anyway I designed something in Sketchup and about halfway through I started thinking it might be easier to make it with a 2X4 frame instead of all MDF and I wanted to get some expert opinions on the idea - I think 2X4s will be cheaper and easier to work with - and I'm all about cheaper and easier 

attached is what I worked up in Sketchup too so I'd welcome any opinions on that as well - although it's not 100% done  I may end up shortening the whole thing, and the router (I'm thinking) will go opposite the chop saw well - and I'm thinking of making a router lift like THIS just because I think it's cool  hehe

Thanks for any tips!
Jamie


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## Willie T

I think you forgot to attach the SKP file??


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## GeeksGoneBad

Ah - I tried and didn't realize it gave me an error

*UltimateToolStand3.skp*:
Your file of 110.6 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 97.7 KB for this filetype. 

I'll have to try and remove some stuff and try again - Thanks


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## GeeksGoneBad

*2X4 Design*

Ok here's a picture of the 2X4 design - I would upload the sketchup but it's too big for the forum

any thoughts?


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## mdntrdr

Looks good! :thumbsup:

I would double up the corners and go with 2X6 for the top.

Maybe add some drawers and doors?

JMO


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## GeeksGoneBad

Yes I was going to add some shelves and drawers once I get the basic design down 

Here's another shot without the top and I reworked the table saw end just a tad

I think the middle area I might make some adjustable shelves for the future in case I get a planer or something that needs a different height

thanks for the advise I can add some more support for the corners for sure


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## phinds

I absolutely agree about doubling up on the corners. I specifically made my bench corners strong enough to hold an elephant and I have been VERY happy over the years that I did.

In addition to holding weight, it gives extra solidity when I put something down there and just pound the crap out of it, which I occasionally do.

I made the top removeable but after 30 years I still haven't replaced it, although it DOES look a lot as though I put heavy irregular objects on it and occasionally pound the crap out of stuff on it.


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## GeorgeC

I am assuming that the table saw will be at the right end. I do not think that you will want that 2x4 in front of the table saw legs. It will be in the way anyting you want to pull the saw out to get to the back of it.

Also the chop saw, router fence, etc will be in the way of any long, wide cuts you may make. Such as ripping a sheet of plywood. I would turn the table saW 90 degrees.

Unless you are using a very small table saw the dimensions between supports seem excessive. However, you did not dimension the drawing so I am not sure.

I would also use 2x6 for top. That is what I made my bench of and I like it.

George


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## GeeksGoneBad

Yes you are right the table saw goes on the right end and I was going to make a "box" to fill the chop saw hole and remove the router fence if I needed to saw long pieces - but basically the idea was to use the table as the outfeed for the table saw - which doesn't have any legs, 
it's is a small bench top type that will sit on that "shelf" on the right side - hope that makes sense

I'll definitely put extra support on the corners  and I'll work on a 2X6 top, that might change a few dimensions and make it harder for the router table?

Thanks for all the advise and here's one question

Should I do rabbets and dados at all or is that overkill?


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## GeeksGoneBad

Sorry for the double post but here's an updated shot with the doubled up legs and 1.5" thick top - I'll have to figure out how to work the router table in with the thicker top but I'll take your guys advise and go with the 2X6 top - I too pound all sorts of crap on my existing workbench too LOL


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## Colt W. Knight

1.5" top seems excessive, but it certainly wont hurt. Just add weight and stabillity.


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## GeeksGoneBad

Hey Colt - I was checking out your thread on the guitar - very cool stuff! I want to make a guitar on my CNC one day for sure too - it's one of the reasons I got into CNC and woodworking 

if the 2X6 top is one of those "can't hurt" things then I will do it for the better stability and stronger "pounding" surface


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## Colt W. Knight

When you are ready to start building your guitar on the CNC go over to TDPRI.COM and read Ed Hawley 53' CNC build thread. He baiscally started a hole chain of guitar builds using his CNC thread. He even shares his programs and files.

All my work tables have 2x6 frames, double legs, and lots of bracing. I use 3/4 MDF or 3/4 Baltic Birch for tops. I thought that would be easier to replace, but after months of missuse, I don't think I will ever need to retop these tables. IF they ever get bad enough to replace, I will probably just reengineer entire new tables with pretty corners, drawers, outlets, and fancy stuff.


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## Colt W. Knight

This thread is cool by the way, its giving my ideas. I need to restore my RAS, and I am thinking about building it into a wall with with a full length countertop running the entire span of the back wall. THis thread is giving me ideas. I could build a place to my router, portable planer, and oscillating spindle sander using this sort of construction.


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## GeeksGoneBad

Cool - glad you're getting some ideas 

I'm still waffling over the top - I don't have a jointer so getting a nice even smooth top from 2X6 I think might prove difficult - after that the top is supposed to also be the table top for my router table so I'm worried about smoothness

with that said I *might* go with a 3/4" white melamine MDF top?

I started constructing the base yesterday  Here's a few pictures (I like to take pictures step by step)


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## Colt W. Knight

Melamine makes excellent router tops. Just be sure to bind the edges or it will absorb moisture and swell and bow.


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## Colt W. Knight

Ive started drawing out my workbench now. This is such a great idea. I always intended on building my RAS into a workbench, but never though about making inserts for other shop tools that take up space.


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## mwkellner

It may not be what you are interested in, but my work bench has diagonal supports from the rear and sides so that there is no 2x4 on the ground. This allows me to roll/slide item underneath for storage. I had LOTS of leftover lumber from the building of my house so I really overbuilt it for no cost. My top is made of 2' long 2x8 and 2x10 pieces running front to back and covered with removable 3/4" plywood. I made it as heavy as possible for the same reason that y'all stated earlier, and I didn't want it attached to the wall. I was able to make 14' long and had to buy nothing except the plywood for the top.


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## WoodRic

Great Thread!
I'm actually just starting to plan my new work-bench as well.
You have some good features in yours. I am looking at a similar layout. I like the idea of drop-in/out areas for extra tools. In my case, I may put the whole thing on wheels so I can roll it in & out of a smaller shop area out to the main garage when I want to use it.

We all have to do, what we have to do with the space we have available.


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## GeeksGoneBad

I thought about wheels too but thought against it for stability and I thought about retractable castors like my Shopsmith has and I might try something like that


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## GeeksGoneBad

Here's a quick update picture - I'm posting the whole build log here - but will post up pictures here too 

As I mentioned before might happen - the plans are changing as I get to stuff and think of an easier or better idea - but I'll be making changes to the sketchup (that I put in a download section on my site too) so I can manage the "Versions"

although the bench is pretty specific to my needs, I doubt anyone will be using the Sketchup file but I want to offer it out just in case


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## Colt W. Knight

Actually, if your table is heavy enough, casters are just as solid as table legs, but add that extra maneuverability.


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## Chippin-in

After reading and seeing what you are doing, I am now thinking of making a few adjustments to the desk I was going to remodel into a router table. It will be nothing like what you are doing, but I am going to add mounting spaces for my Ridgid sander and benchtop planer (when I get it).

Nice post, thanks.


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## GeeksGoneBad

Awesome I'm glad some people are getting some ideas from this one 

I put castors on - but now I think it's a bit too tall... we'll have to see once I start using it for stuff - Here's the latest pic! (there's more progress pics at my build log a few posts back) 

I've got a bunch of ideas for shelves and storage that I'm going to work on next


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## WoodRic

Good job dude!

Just a couple of things:
Casters: Yeah, it will be tall now. You'd have wanted to have planned those in to avoid that. But still, they'll be a benefit if you need to move it around.

Something I'd look at adding (if I were you) is a fold down table extension to the right of the table saw. You'll need it if you're going to cut any larger stock (sheet stock?). Then I'd mount the router in that. Then when you don't want it, you just drop it out of the way.

Also.. what are you going to do about the fence on the table saw?
Just curious..

-Ric


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## Willie T

I also might open up all the space under both the table saw and chop saw that you can so that you can build a shelf under each of them for a sawdust collection box to sit on. They are ultra convenient to just slide out and empty.


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## GeeksGoneBad

Thanks for the suggestions - I meant to have the area under the table saw empty for dust collection and totally forgot! For the chop saw and the router I was hoping to make some dual action dust collection hood thingy 

I lost the table saw fence a long time ago and I've been using one of the smaller clamp guides and I made sure there was space behind the table saw for the clamp thing - but I will probably build a new fence system eventually <- just looking for an easy to make one 

I don't foresee myself using much full sheet stock - I don't even own a truck to get full sheets home so I always have the Home Depot guys cut down the sheets so they fit in my van  but an extension is a good idea


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## Willie T

When you git 'er done, shoot me an invite to come over and see it. I'll bring a six-pack of beer.... or Coke, if ya don't drink.


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## Colt W. Knight

Even though your table is taller now, I bet you still appreciate the mobillity more. My work table is extremely high. I am 6'3'' tall, and I hate having to lean over all my saws and routers and such. So I made my working table high enough that I don't have to bend over. Its great for free hand routing, sanding, and assembly. 

Like your design by the way. I am going to build a larger version for the back wall in my shop.


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## woodnthings

*A simple fence can be made from Unistrut*

http://www.unistrut.com/Browse/cat_detail.php?S=S02&P=P3000
and a bracket inside that slides and when tightened to the front face squares itself up similar to this idea:http://www.unistrut.com/Browse/cat_detail.php?S=S04&P=P4908

Looks like this:









The EZ Square Table Saw Rip Fence is the perfect aftermarket fence if you're serious about saving time and making straight cuts. The EZ Square Table Saw Fence was designed to be that dependable piece of equipment in your workshop that you can trust every time you use it. It takes a simple, no-frills approach that gets the job right every time.
The EZ Square Table Saw Fence fits most saw and some drilling may be required.​ 

*T-Slots on the fence top and front and back faces let you mount all sorts of accessories like Board Buddies and Featherboards.*
*The EZ Square Fence can be used right or left of the saw blade.*
*UHMW Face on both left and right faces means super smooth operation.*
*T-Track mounting of the fence rails means the fence rails can be adjuste*


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## GeeksGoneBad

@Willie - Hey Neighbor! Didn't even notice that you were in St. Pete - very cool  I'm in St. Pete all the time because my band practices off of 30th ave and US19 - and I'm just south of Gulf to Bay in Morningside - and I definitely drink beer hehe

@Colt - Thanks - I'm going to give it a chance for sure and if it is too tall then I'll go back to the retractable castors idea and work something out for that - I think I need it mobile with my small area

@Woodnthings - thanks for the unistrut idea - I'll see if I can find a place to buy that stuff and work out a fence idea - I do know where I can get some UMHW and that's a good idea for a face - thanks!


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## Willie T

GeeksGoneBad said:


> @Willie - Hey Neighbor! Didn't even notice that you were in St. Pete - very cool  I'm in St. Pete all the time because my band practices off of 30th ave and US19 - and I'm just south of Gulf to Bay in Morningside - and I definitely drink beer hehe
> 
> @Colt - Thanks - I'm going to give it a chance for sure and if it is too tall then I'll go back to the retractable castors idea and work something out for that - I think I need it mobile with my small area
> 
> @Woodnthings - thanks for the unistrut idea - I'll see if I can find a place to buy that stuff and work out a fence idea - I do know where I can get some UMHW and that's a good idea for a face - thanks!


*Unistrut Florida*. *6750 142nd Avenue*. North *Largo*, *FL* 34641-4721. 813-531-0468 phone. 813-539-0487 fax


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## dbhost

FWIW, I like where you are going with this thing. Looks like a good idea, especially considering the table saw you are working with. A couple of suggestions though... 

#1. You are already looking into it, but an improved fence for the TS will help, a LOT...
#2. Miter slot extensions cut into the work top. The way you are set up you SERIOUSLY limit the function of the table saw...
#3. Folding caster brackets to allow you to use the setup mobile, and plop it down on the floor when you are where you want to go... The setup on my table saw isn't exactly the way you ought to go with your setup, but close enough you should be able to get some good ideas from it...


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## GeeksGoneBad

Thanks for the link Willie - I'll definitely check the Unistrut out since it's so close!

I was watching an old NYWS where he made his crosscut slide and think I will make one of those too - which means I'll need the outfeed slots you're talking about dbhost 

And a fence system is going to be a must - the clamp guide I *was* using has a little nub on the very end that interferes with it laying flat - there's no way I'm routing a channel on the table for the nub LOL

So I'm now seriously looking at making a fence system

JC​


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## GeeksGoneBad

Just a quick update - not too much 

but I wanted to show the dust collection thing I added before it gets covered up by something LOL

I don't have a "proper" dust collection system so this is my shopvac hose


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## GeeksGoneBad

Hey guys! Here's an update - make some good progress on the workbench yesterday 

I've also decided against putting in a router table - mainly because I was thinking about it and I already have a mac daddy router table with my CNC machine - all I need is a "jig" to be able to run boards manually - sometimes I just don't think things through LOL

I also figure I can use the CNC to joint a board (or boards) by clamping them down and running the gantry in one direction only (heck I could even do all the sides if I wanted) all I need is a quick and easy way to align and clamp boards down so I know they are somewhat parallel to the gantry - should be easy enough 

So this workbench is just about done - I'm going to do a few more things (which I'll post here) but it's close!

Jamie


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## mdntrdr

Didn't take long to fill 'er up! :laughing:

Looks great, Work space ,Storage and DC ! :thumbsup:

Mobile too!!!


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## woodworkingfun

Great Thread! I'm actually just starting to plan my new work-bench as well. My new bench is higher and has more storage.


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## lscott

just a thought here. Make the bottom of the shelf for your chop saw removable, like a slide in panel, so you can also use your table saw in that location for cross cutting longer stock.
Len


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## amckenzie4

Very nice! I'll be looking into building a bench sometime soon, and I like this design a lot. I'll have to keep it in mind...


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## LouieK

Very nice design. im in the process of building my own. Found a design for a 'knockdown' workbench. Think it'll be helpful with the limited amount of space im working with.


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## olddutchman

Thats going to be a nice bench. What table saw do You have, and i trust that its not the Shop Smith in Your shop?


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## markedenfield

WoodRic said:


> Good job dude!
> 
> Just a couple of things:
> Casters: Yeah, it will be tall now. You'd have wanted to have planned those in to avoid that. But still, they'll be a benefit if you need to move it around.
> 
> Something I'd look at adding (if I were you) is a fold down table extension to the right of the table saw. You'll need it if you're going to cut any larger stock (sheet stock?). Then I'd mount the router in that. Then when you don't want it, you just drop it out of the way.
> 
> Also.. what are you going to do about the fence on the table saw?
> Just curious..
> 
> -Ric


I recently built a table like this and left just enough room at the rear of the saw for the fence to fit. In addition, I mounted adjustable bolts that attach to the four corners on the bottom of the saw for exact height adjustment. I also added a downdraft area in the table for sanding.


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## woodcore

It looks nice and solid!


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## FrankC

Wondering if he is still using the bench after 6 years, I have found that using multi-purpose benches are usually not ideal, I prefer separate stands on wheels.


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## Toolman50

GeeksGoneBad said:


> I thought about wheels too but thought against it for stability and I thought about retractable castors like my Shopsmith has and I might try something like that


With the size and weight of your planned bench, once it's loaded with tools and accessories, it will be stable and probably still hard to move even with good lockable rollers. The rollers can lift it up off the ground like a toe-board on a cabinet.


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## cib

I like the design, I'm finally going to build myself a decent workbench this summer and get away from the 2x4 with 3/4 plywood top, it does the job but is a bit too flimsy.


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## RatpigHoosier

I'm going to build something similar, but taller since I'm 6'6" and am starting to acquire back issues from leaning over to work on things. I initially thought about just the TS and router table on it, but I really like the idea of the submerged chop saw. 
I'm wondering how feasible it would be to make a 1/4" sheet framed cover for the whole thing. Like many, I have a 2-car garage and one half works as my "shop". If I could make a removable top that would protect it when finishing wood or working on Jeep parts, I think that would be ideal. Then I could get rid of one of my current workbenches and save space. Anybody do this?


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## Tchouken

Thanks for the CAD file.

Let's see what can do with it and if I can pull something even more interesting from it for personal use.

.


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## kelshar317

GeeksGoneBad said:


> Here's a quick update picture - I'm posting the whole build log here - but will post up pictures here too
> 
> As I mentioned before might happen - the plans are changing as I get to stuff and think of an easier or better idea - but I'll be making changes to the sketchup (that I put in a download section on my site too) so I can manage the "Versions"
> 
> although the bench is pretty specific to my needs, I doubt anyone will be using the Sketchup file but I want to offer it out just in case


How did the bench work out for you?


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## Woodworking Wolf

kelshar317 said:


> How did the bench work out for you?


FYI - this is an old post - last active in 2016. Looks like GeeksGoneBad hasn't been here since 2012. Can't tell you how many times I've started to post on a thread before I realized how old it was.


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