# Miter Gauges and Crosscut Sleds



## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

I'm curious about everyone's workflows about using a crosscut sled versus using a miter gauge.

Do you like the miter gauge or the crosscut sled?

When do you use one versus the other?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Incra at the furniture company
Miter guage at cabinet shop and home shop


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

BigCountry79 said:


> I'm curious about everyone's workflows about using a crosscut sled versus using a miter gauge.
> 
> Do you like the miter gauge or the crosscut sled?
> 
> When do you use one versus the other?


I made a great variable angle crosscut sled. It's huge. I've never used it.








Table Saw Sled Build


So many threads on sleds. So I had to make one. I used 1/2" hardboard, like Masonite, for the sled. Maple runners. Oak for the front rail. I haven't decided to cut though the rear portion yet. I don't see the need so far. The semi-circular 5/16" slots for the "T" bolts were routed on the...




www.woodworkingtalk.com














I use an extended wood fence on my miter gauges when they will permit it. Some won't like Incra or Osborne.








Miter gauges, which one?


Over the past years about 50, I have acquired a few different miter gauges. I thought I would pass along a few examples and some tips I have. The most accurate is the larger Incra and has a vernier adjustment to under 1 degree. The smaller Incra is very accurate and fine for most work. The old...




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When I have a kerf for reference it is far easier to line up my mark for an accurate cut.
It is also far safer to be able to push both the work and the off fall past the blade.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

I don’t use a miter gauge for much other than cutting tenons with a dado. I’ve got a pretty good one (Jessem), but find I still have to keep an eye on calibration. For rough cross-cutting and miter cuts I use a the miter saw.

90% of the time I use the sled. The stop won’t work if I attach a sacrificial fence on my miter gauge, so I just pull out the sled. I have 3, a regular, a small one, and a panel sled.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

My saw is equipped with a sliding miter table which is great. It also has slots for a miter gauge, but I have never used one. The setup shown is for crosscutting long stock like the 60" shelves in the background.








I forgot to mention that this slider has a max. crosscut width of 27".


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## swp (Dec 17, 2021)

3 miter gauges that almost never get used. Very simple crosscut sled that I knocked together years ago in about 15 minutes. It does one thing: crosscut. No adjustments, always dead on, always handy.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Jim Frye said:


> My saw is equipped with a sliding miter table which is great. It also has slots for a miter gauge, but I have never used one. The setup shown is for crosscutting long stock like the 60" shelves in the background.
> View attachment 435469


If I were starting over, I would definitely get a tablesaw with a sliding table. To get squared end panels, I typically use the fence to register against because the space in front of the blade on the table saw is only about 14" or so, not enough for wide panels.
A sled would need to have a 24" or wider capacity to b useful for wide panels and then it would be heavy and hang way out in front off the saw table, NOT anything that would really work well.
I have seen any number of crosscut adaptions using a circular saw which would be the answer for a small shop.
I made my own panel saw years ago, but then kinda stopped making cabinets of large sizes. That's really a great way to square up and break down sheet goods.









Not for every shop however, because of the footprint and because of the initial cost unless you make your own.
The tracksaw has become the "go to" solution these days as the prices have come way down. It does require making two measurements for each cut and that's just another opportunity for human error.
There ain't no one easy answer, I guess.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I'm not much for a panel saw for cutting parts for cabinets. Good saw for cutting counter top blanks out


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> I'm not much for a panel saw for cutting parts for cabinets.
> 
> Because...?
> 
> ...


What are your reasons?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> What are your reasons?


It's sucks compared to a tablesaw....


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## Biotec (Mar 14, 2021)

I like the saw slot idea


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Most panel saws affordable to a DIYer are useful to break sheet goods down, not accurate enough for finished work.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

I definitely don't have room for a sliding table or a panel saw!

I do use a square guide for my circular saw when cutting plywood.

I'm still undecided the best way to crosscut solid wood (for me). Still insure about my ideal process for miters, etc.


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## rogerh (Sep 13, 2020)

I used a sled, 100% of the time for cross-cutting stock from 6” to 24”. The sled is particularly useful cutting many wide pieces that are the same dimensions. My mitersaw has taken the place of my miter gauge, on stock 6” and under.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

BigCountry79 said:


> I'm still undecided the best way to crosscut solid wood (for me). Still insure about my ideal process for miters, etc.


When I get off my procrastination I want to make some stuff for that.
A conventional crosscut sled for my SS.

A not-sure-what-to-call-it. @woodnthings has one made with 2 manufactured miter gauges sharing one fence. I'll make one with 2 aluminum bars and ply. Locked at 90 so not fair to call it a tandem miter gauge, maybe a bottomless crosscut sled? Because the work piece is on the table top you can cut a long piece without the end hanging off the sled, and you have the full height of the blade. 

For miters that I don't want to use a m gauge for, tapers, odd stuff a piece of ply about 2'x3' on a miter bar. Attach a fence etc as needed. I have a project coming up that needs 1.2" x 6" hardwood mitered into a triangle 40" or so on the sides, I'd use this sled for that.









McMaster-Carr


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That's what I'll try for miter bars, they fit Sawstop track with only about 1 or 2 thousandth of slop. Will try these for that slop:








McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com




One layer of Scotch tape still has slop and 2 layers is too much lol.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

rogerh said:


> I used a sled, 100% of the time for cross-cutting stock from 6” to 24”. The sled is particularly useful cutting many wide pieces that are the same dimensions. My mitersaw has taken the place of my miter gauge, on stock 6” and under.


Interesting. 
I really hate cutting short pieces on the miter saw.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

BigCountry79 said:


> I definitely don't have room for a sliding table or a panel saw!
> 
> I do use a square guide for my circular saw when cutting plywood.
> 
> I'm still undecided the best way to crosscut solid wood (for me). Still insure about my ideal process for miters, etc.


Me either!! The big ones are for production shops and $$$. Vertical panel cutters I would think are for breaking down material and take up a lot of wall space, which is usually at a premium in most shops.

If I were starting from scratch I would seriously consider an MFT table. You can perform extremely accurate panel cuts owing to the layout precision of the parf dog system. It also functions as a crosscut for dimensional lumber as well. Track saws aren't cheap, but on the other hand, they are multifunctional tools, and have much better dust collection, and can replace a table saw and miter saw.

I mentioned it b/c this trend has been going on in Europe for several years and it catching on in the US. With the cost of machines, and the likeliness they will never come back down, I think the MFT system is a very viable option.

I also use a miter gauge attachment with my track saw but its only as accurate as your eye can see. A dog system to register tracks and material against is inherently much more accurate.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> I'm not much for a panel saw for cutting parts for cabinets. Good saw for cutting counter top blanks out





Rebelwork said:


> It's sucks compared to a tablesaw....


All depends on your table saw.


Depends on your panel saw:





Cheaper here:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I've used both in cabinetry and solid surface. Anything else?

These saws eat a lot real estate. 

If your trying to save space a track saw is the way to go. If your constantly cutting sheet goods your going to have to make a big decision..


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

A problem with using a track saw for breaking down plywood is the amount of space it takes to lay the plywood flat and have it well supported. You can clear a space on your floor and bend over, or you need a massive sized table to support the plywood and backer.

A full sheet of Plywood is challenge for most small shops. Glad I have a solution.

.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

I did it for years and I loathe breaking down plywood on the floor.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

So what do people use their miter gauges for?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

BigCountry79 said:


> I did it for years and I loathe breaking down plywood on the floor.


When you get to be over 65, you can get down on the ground, but you won't be able to get back up! A 5 gal pail, a saw horse, anything I can use to push off on is kept close by.
Last fall, I spent a week working on the rockers on my Suburban getting it ready to sell. It looked like new afterwards but I didn't get any extra money for all that work.
Sheet goods go on tall saw horses with either 3 - 2 X 4's under it OR 2" foam panel 4 X 8 . No crawling around on the ground for me.


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## rogerh (Sep 13, 2020)

BigCountry79 said:


> Interesting.
> I really hate cutting short pieces on the miter saw.


I meant 6” wide not long. Although I have had not problem cutting shot pieces on a miter saw.


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## thewalnutguy (Oct 31, 2010)

BigCountry79 said:


> I'm curious about everyone's workflows about using a crosscut sled versus using a miter gauge.
> 
> Do you like the miter gauge or the crosscut sled?
> 
> When do you use one versus the other?


I keep planning to build a cross-cut sled for the tablesaw but as yet I've not gotten that done. I can see that a sled would be especially nice for cuts where there'd be a small cut-off as it would carry it away from the blade. I use the tablesaw primarily for ripping, as I do most cross-cuts on my 60 year old DeWalt RAS that I purchased new. For breaking down plywood I've got a panel saw in the garage that I use for initial rough breaking down and one iI bought new in the shop for final cuts. The extra one in the garage is probably excess, but I was able to get it, minus the saw itself, for fifty dollars delivered. That seemed like too good a deal to pass up, even with the cost of a new Milwaukee saw, and being able to do initial breakdown of the panel in the garage is a real benefit.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I used the Incra for a lot of half lap benches. When I needed deeper cuts I used the Altendorf slider. I wouldn't mind having another Incra , but I think it was the Osborne I really be wanted to try.

Theres the piece that I used the Incra on.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

I like the idea of breaking down in the garage, but the logistics of it just haven't come together for me...when I had a tablesaw in my garage it made a lot of sense.

The wet / cold in the garage hasn't helped.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

I really dislike using a miter gauge for longer lengths so will grab a sled if I have to cross cut on the table saw, but that is just my opinion after using a table saw for the last 60 years.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

I have the newer version of the table saw Jim Frye has. And more or less the same experience. The miter gauge fence that works with the sliding miter table has slots that will accomodate T nuts, to which you can attach a sacrificial fence. It is how my box joint jig is set up etc...

I do have miter slots as well, but use them for safety gear like feather boards.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

FrankC said:


> But that is just my opinion after using a table saw for the last 60 years.


Okay well let us know when you have a little more experience under your belt 🤣

Thanks for the informed opinion!


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

BigCountry79 said:


> Okay well let us know when you have a little more experience under your belt 🤣
> 
> Thanks for the informed opinion!


I guess that comment went over some peoples heads.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

FrankC said:


> I guess that comment went over some peoples heads.


Well I'm 6'6" so I'm used to talking over people.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

BigCountry79 said:


> I did it for years and I loathe breaking down plywood on the floor.


I keep my ply on a mobile rack. I made a skate to move the sheet and a tilting contraption that goes on and off my assembly table. Really took the strain out. I can also just position the rack and slide a sheet onto the tilt. Really works well. My back isn’t good I had to come up with something! I can post a pic if anyone’s interested.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

A well trained beaver? I made a few cc sleds awhile back and they worked great for awhile, but the humidity in the shop usually warped them over time or it could have had something to do with my old crapman slotted aluminum top and the worn out miter slots, but they never quite stayed square after a few weeks or so. I did make a box joint jig based on the sled, but it's not as wide since it has side framing to keep the front and back aligned. I might make another sled when I get some more space to put my new jigs and sleds since none of the old jigs that fit the craftsman saw will fit the SS.. Miter slots don't fit the same..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

FrankC said:


> I guess that comment went over some peoples heads.


I got it, but only because I just quit smoking after almost 50 years. I never quite had enough experience smoking..


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## kudzu9 (Aug 30, 2021)

I got my first table saw, a good quality Delta, about 20 years ago after a couple of decades of using a RAS. I got by with a couple of different miter gauges, but was never entirely happy with the results or the consistency. I finally got around to building my first crosscut sled last year and immediately realized what a difference it made in my projects. I have since built a second one for smaller pieces, and a third one that is exclusively for 45 degree bevel cuts (first project: a retro case out of walnut plywood for an old stereo receiver). Yes, it's a little bit cumbersome to use the bigger sled, but I made a clip on support for the front of my saw that supports the weight of the sled when it's hanging mostly off the table at the beginning of the cut, and that makes life a lot easier.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

kudzu9 said:


> Yes, it's a little bit cumbersome to use the bigger sled, but I made a clip on support for the front of my saw that supports the weight of the sled when it's hanging mostly off the table at the beginning of the cut, and that makes life a lot easier.


Yeah, I just made a clip on support, now I need to make the sled so I can test it lol. I'll post a thread about it when I've tested. How about posting about your support?


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## kudzu9 (Aug 30, 2021)

Bob Bengal said:


> Yeah, I just made a clip on support, now I need to make the sled so I can test it lol. I'll post a thread about it when I've tested. How about posting about your support?


Bob- Here you go...


















An idea I adapted from someone else's post here. It's made from a scrap of plywood, a scrap of aluminum angle, and an adjustable clamp. It's about 20" long. It not only works great with my sleds, but supports all kinds of bigger/longer material that I am cutting down. When I'm not using this, it hangs from a bolt under my extension table, and clamps on in 2 seconds. For those who are thinking of making one, just be sure that it's not wider than the distance between your two miter slots or it will interfere with the crosscut sled miter slot rails. When I use it for other things than supporting my crosscut sleds, it can be clamped anywhere along the front rail, so there isn't a problem with fence positioning. It's one of the most helpful gizmos I've ever made for my shop.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

What would you cut with the additional 20" depth?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> What would you cut with the additional 20" depth?


It's a support for a sled OR any workpiece, especially a sheet of plywood for ripping. The 20" is the length of the support bracket, not the cross cut capacity which would be greater.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Mines 23" with a 20" capability. I don't use an extension. Guess it's different for home use..


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