# Tools Stand to base??



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I'm working up plans for a flip(swivel0 top tool stand. Oscillating spindle sander on one side and benchgrinder+Drill Doctor+Worksharp on the other. Majority of materials in the current outlook is 2x construction lumber with some plywood for the swivel top. Base I'm thinking half lapped 2x4's half-lapped on the 3-1/2" side. 4 legs of 2x4x31" with 2x2's half lapped in about 10" above the base and 2x4's half lapped along two sides at the top. For a pivot I'm looking at 1/2" iron pipe (~3/4" dia). Top would be two layers of 3/4 ply edged with more 2x4 stock. 
My concern is joining the base and the stand legs. Seems like the weak spot would be left-right racking as I can't brace that direction more than about 10" above the base in order to swivel the top. 
I spent about 2 hours last nite trying to figure out sketch up and this is as far as I got.. hopefulley it is enough to give you guys some idea. About the best I've come up with is pocket screws but I'm not terribly confident in those things.

Hopefully some of you guys more familiar with sketchup will be able to figure the thing out


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## Upstate (Nov 28, 2011)

If you tried to post a sketchup drawing, I think you may have forgot. Either way, here is the one I finished the other day, you can perhaps get some ideas. It seems more than adequate. Constructed of two laminated pieces of 3/4" ply, with a red oak face frame. The top is two pieces of 3/4" ply, with a 1/2" red oak layer sandwiched in between. A 1/2" steel rod passes through the sandwiched top and is simply buried into a 1/2" hole in the sides to give it the swinging action. If I were to do it again, the only thing I'd change is to using 1/2" threaded steel rod for the pivot point, and screw some nuts and washers on each end. Too late for that now though since I epoxied the rod in the top.

Edit: forgot to attach pictures


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Upstate said:


> If you tried to post a sketchup drawing, I think you may have forgot. Either way, here is the one I finished the other day, you can perhaps get some ideas. It seems more than adequate. Constructed of two laminated pieces of 3/4" ply, with a red oak face frame. The top is two pieces of 3/4" ply, with a 1/2" red oak layer sandwiched in between. A 1/2" steel rod passes through the sandwiched top and is simply buried into a 1/2" hole in the sides to give it the swinging action. If I were to do it again, the only thing I'd change is to using 1/2" threaded steel rod for the pivot point, and screw some nuts and washers on each end. Too late for that now though since I epoxied the rod in the top.


Hi - thanks for the response. It sounds like you started with the same Wood magazine plan I am. I think I remember from one of your previous posts that you built it for a planer. I'm thinking my spindle sander is much lighter and I'm trying to keep the budget down a bit here so I'm electing for construction lumber except for the plywood, that's Home depots version of "cabinet grade" which is essentially about 7 ply but the chunk I have is fairly void free. 
Not planning on any epoxies, I want to be able to takes the thing apart to some extent if I need to. Was planning on just pinning the pipe to the top. Capture the pipe with pipe caps on the end. 
Funny, my computer shows a hot link to sketchup at the bottom of my post.:huh:


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## smokey1945 (Feb 20, 2009)

" If I were to do it again, the only thing I'd change is to using 1/2" threaded steel rod for the pivot point, and screw some nuts and washers on each end"

I am not attempting to pirate a thread, but why? Is it that the weight tries to sag the ends out of the support?
I am thinking about building a longer one to put my Jet planer/jointer combo on. With a fairly equal weight on the other side.
Of course I might be biting off more than I can chew, as I am old and disabled from the waist down, though still able to walk. Is it difficult to flip?
Thanks


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## Upstate (Nov 28, 2011)

smokey1945 said:


> I am not attempting to pirate a thread, but why? Is it that the weight tries to sag the ends out of the support?
> I am thinking about building a longer one to put my Jet planer/jointer combo on. With a fairly equal weight on the other side.
> Of course I might be biting off more than I can chew, as I am old and disabled from the waist down, though still able to walk. Is it difficult to flip?
> Thanks


I'm sure the weight is _trying_ to sag out the sides, but I'm not really too worried about that happening (otherwise I'd fix it). It'd have to deflect about 2" for the "axel" to slip out of the hole. And so far, no sag (we'll see in a year). It'd just be nice to have a visual confirmation that everything is in place though, especially with so much weight (and money), resting on the top. The threaded rod would act as a way to keep the sides level vertically in case of any sag. The other option would be to use a long bolt on each side instead of a steel rod that runs all the way through. 

I'm not sure how much your jointer and planer weigh, but if I were you, I'd certainly want some sort of confirmation that the sides aren't going to bow out and drop the top to the floor. My planer weighs 80lbs or so. I don't have another tool on the reverse yet, so I can't comment on the weight for you, but I think the two tools should cancel each other out and make for a real easy turn. If you want, I'll bolt my miter saw to the other side and see how it goes. Feel free to ask. You'll probably want to put handles of some sort on the top and/or side of the top.


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