# Nailing up boards on a fence



## lostsoul65 (Mar 15, 2014)

I'm putting in a double fence and I will be putting up 150 fence boards and putting 6 nails into each board so that's 900 nails. I'm 66 years old and after hammering 9 nails I almost through my back and shoulder out so I need a nail gun. The boards are 5/8 inches thick so I use 2 inch nails but I would like to use a nail gun that uses 2 inch staples. Do they have a nail gun to do this that doesn't use a compressor? I don't want to spend a lot of money so I know I can get a nail gun cheap but I don't know about the compressor. I really don't know anything because this is the first time I've done this. Any advice would be welcome.


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## jbwhitford (Jan 28, 2014)

I've used a battery powered nail gun. I don't know if it did staples or not because it wasn't mine. Hope this kinda helps.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If it were me I would use the ring or screw nails. There are pneumatic guns that shoot them.


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## lostsoul65 (Mar 15, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> If it were me I would use the ring or screw nails. There are pneumatic guns that shoot them.


 But don't these take compressors and what kind would I need?


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## Kahlua (Dec 6, 2012)

I use screws when I put up fence in my yard. The back is a half acre fully fenced and we had to replace about 200ft of it when we moved in. 4 screws per picket, 2 on each rail. Quick and easy, especially when the pickets are still wet with treatment. The only time i've taken a hammer to the fence is to remove sections that need to be replaced, which I screw in.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*amen to screws!*

I've built hundreds of feet of fence using screws. They hold great and when a board needs to be replaced, they come back out easily.
You can get coated screws that won't rust and will last "forever" ...
Use the square or torx head types, they will stay on your *impact driver* and will self start. Use a clamp and spacer block or work to lines on the horizontals. Use one in the center to make the layout work, then come back and use 2 more staggered, when you're happy with the look. Do not put 3 in a row either vertically or horizontally, it may split the board. BTDT :yes: 3 screws may be "overkill". Alternatively a 2 screw approach will be fine also, 2 across both at the top and at the bottom for a total of 4 screws per board. Obviously the design is unkown to us here at this point.

2" coated screws:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4LB-2-Green...116?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51969fc93c


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

lostsoul65 said:


> I'm putting in a double fence and I will be putting up 150 fence boards and putting 6 nails into each board so that's 900 nails. I'm 66 years old and after hammering 9 nails I almost through my back and shoulder out so I need a nail gun. The boards are 5/8 inches thick so I use 2 inch nails but I would like to use a nail gun that uses 2 inch staples. Do they have a nail gun to do this that doesn't use a compressor? I don't want to spend a lot of money so I know I can get a nail gun cheap but I don't know about the compressor. I really don't know anything because this is the first time I've done this. Any advice would be welcome.


I also vote for the screw approach for your situation.
The pneumatic nails guns are cheap but the battery powered ones are on the spendy side. You can likely buy a pneumatic gun + small reconditioned compressor for about the same money as a battery gun. And then you need to buy fuel cells for the battery version. 
Screws can be had in virtually any type of rust resistant coating and can be installed easily with a battery drill or impact driver. Screws also have the advantage in that they allow relatively easy replacement of any boards that may be damaged later. Using Torx or Roberson (square) drive fasteners is also a good one. They are much more resistant to cam out than the Phillips drive. The Torx are best in this respect IMHO. Good Luck:smile:

EDIT - I just reread your post and got to wondering if you are laboring under the impression that a nail gun is a nail gun?? The inexpensive guns you see advertised in the $50-100 range are typically 16 or 18 gauge brad or finish nailers (very small or no head on the fastener). For fencing, you will need at least a .090 diameter nail with a head that requires a gun like this http://bigskytool.com/Hitachi_NV65AH_2-12_Coil_Siding_Nailer_(Grade_C_Reconditioned)___i1047.aspx to drive it. That gun is the least expensive I know of to drive nails the size you will need.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself. If you fill out your profile in your "User Control Panel", you can list any hobbies, experience or other facts. You can also list your general geographical location which would be a help in answering some questions. In doing that your location will show under your username when you post. 

Using a compressor and an air stapler would be your easiest method. This stapler will shoot 1½" staples, which are long enough to get a good grab. You can use any compressor, even the small pancake types, as air staplers only need a short blast of air. Those compressors are very inexpensive. You might even decide to get a larger one just to have around...a great start to a shop.

I've also just used screws to install fencing, but never kept track of how many hundreds of feet. It can be a chore no matter what screw head you use, just holding the driver in position. The driver will feel like it weighs 50lb after a half day of driving screws.

As for nailing, BTDT. A 16oz hammer will feel like a sledge hammer at the end of the day. You might find out that your hammer found its way into your neighbor's yard because you couldn't feel it in your hand.

So, in conclusion (maybe), IMO, compressed air stapling would be the way to go.








 







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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

When I a putting up fence boards I use screws! Never have one of those pull out as the board warps.

George


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

For 150 boards screws may be OK, unless you are using coalated screws I can't imagine using screws for a large job. A small compressor and a nailer makes quick work of it, use a string at the top for your horizontal reference, plumb the first board, butt the next few, check for plumb, adjust, repeat. I use coated ring shank nails, never had an issue with them holding.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

As far as the air nailer itself goes, is there a decent rental shop near you? You should be able to rent a nailer and jobsite compressor for this job. This is what I did when I re-roofed my garage a couple years back. I started out swinging a hammer and after getting 1/2 done ran out of gas thinking I'd never get it done. Rented a coiled roofing nailer and finished it in no time. I have no need to own that type of nailgun so renting made perfect sense. Something to look into.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Let's start over ...*



lostsoul65 said:


> I'm putting in a double fence and I will be putting up 150 fence boards and putting 6 nails into each board so that's 900 nails. I'm 66 years old and after hammering 9 nails I almost through my back and shoulder out *so I need a nail gun. The boards are 5/8 inches thick so I use 2 inch nails but I would like to use a nail gun that uses 2 inch staples*.
> (They make nail guns OR staplers, they are not the same)
> 
> 
> ...


The compressor alone:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-psi-Oil-Free-Pancake-Compressor-C2002/203162815
The stapler:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-16-Gauge-x-2-in-Medium-Crown-Stapler-GRTSM200/202458089

or:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hitachi-...Glasses-and-Hex-Bar-Wrench-N5008AC2/202065358

Then you have framing air nailers:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-C...-Framing-Nailer-FR350B/203555586?N=5yc1vZc2cd

And the nails;
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Freeman-...ing-Shank-Framing-Nails-FR-113-2GRS/203502575

OR as mentioned previously you can use an impact driver and the coated screws.

OR you just rent the stuff. :blink:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If you have a drill or impact that will drive screws go that route, you don't mention the material you are using, if it is treated use the proper fasteners or it won't matter what way you go.

Square drive screws are the easiest to work with, have built many fences with them and never looked back and I do own a good selection of air nailers.


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## Kahlua (Dec 6, 2012)

jschaben said:


> I also vote for the screw approach for your situation.
> The pneumatic nails guns are cheap but the battery powered ones are on the spendy side. You can likely buy a pneumatic gun + small reconditioned compressor for about the same money as a battery gun. And then you need to buy fuel cells for the battery version.
> Screws can be had in virtually any type of rust resistant coating and can be installed easily with a battery drill or impact driver. Screws also have the advantage in that they allow relatively easy replacement of any boards that may be damaged later. Using Torx or Roberson (square) drive fasteners is also a good one. They are much more resistant to cam out than the Phillips drive. The Torx are best in this respect IMHO. Good Luck:smile:
> 
> EDIT - I just reread your post and got to wondering if you are laboring under the impression that a nail gun is a nail gun?? The inexpensive guns you see advertised in the $50-100 range are typically 16 or 18 gauge brad or finish nailers (very small or no head on the fastener). For fencing, you will need at least a .090 diameter nail with a head that requires a gun like this http://bigskytool.com/Hitachi_NV65AH_2-12_Coil_Siding_Nailer_(Grade_C_Reconditioned)___i1047.aspx to drive it. That gun is the least expensive I know of to drive nails the size you will need.


My method is to put the picket up and set the bottom on the ground, screw in one screw up top so the bottom can swing, then use a thin piece as a spacer to adjust the bottom. Once it's straight (or close, those precut pickets can be iffy) put a screw in the bottom and then add the second screw to both bottom and top. Put the spacer next to that picket and put in the next board. If you make the spacer long enough you can just leave it hanging on the top rail to align the picket - mine is usually some tiny scrap I have laying around so It gets moved.










One of these makes short work for self driving. Put the screw on the bit, slide the sleeve over it, and let the cordless impact do the work.

3'' screws to put the lateral supports onto the posts, and 2'' screws for the pickets. T25 torx bit that comes with the screws should last the entire operation, and allow good torque transfer with limited stripping.



I use a PC impact with a 1/4" chuck and one battery will last about 75 feet of fence, or 175 of so pickets, which equals out to about 700 screws.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> The compressor alone:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-psi-Oil-Free-Pancake-Compressor-C2002/203162815
> The stapler:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-psi-Oil-Free-Pancake-Compressor-C2002/203162815


These appear to be the same. Maybe not...I donno.:blink:








 







.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*right you R*

Thanx 4 pointin' that out. :yes:


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I only had 80' of new fence to put up. Vertical 1x6. Robertson (square) #8's. One in each rail. I can't see the need for 4 screws per board. Ordinary variable speed drill, long #12 extension cord.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the reason for 4 screws*



Robson Valley said:


> I only had 80' of new fence to put up. Vertical 1x6. Robertson (square) #8's. One in each rail. I can't see the need for 4 screws per board. Ordinary variable speed drill, long #12 extension cord.


PT or Wolmanized Pine tends to cup when exposed to direct sun over a period of time the 2 screws at the edges somewhat counteracts that, but not always.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Robson Valley said:


> I only had 80' of new fence to put up. Vertical 1x6. Robertson (square) #8's. One in each rail. I can't see the need for 4 screws per board. Ordinary variable speed drill, long #12 extension cord.


I've found that an electric drill operated at slow speeds has nowhere near the torque that a cordless drill has. I use a cordless drill on slow speeds (which BTW is easier to control than an electric), and drive screws slow, and when near tight just bump trigger to snug up. Driving screws at a fast rate can heat them up, causing heads to snap off, and/or, over spinning affecting their holding power.








 







.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Robson Valley said:


> I only had 80' of new fence to put up. Vertical 1x6. Robertson (square) #8's. One in each rail. I can't see the need for 4 screws per board. Ordinary variable speed drill, long #12 extension cord.


Two at top and two at bottom near edges. 4 screws per board. Any less and you wind up with poor job.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> I've found that an electric drill operated at slow speeds has nowhere near the torque that a cordless drill has. I use a cordless drill on slow speeds (which BTW is easier to control than an electric), and drive screws slow, and when near tight just bump trigger to snug up. Driving screws at a fast rate can heat them up, causing heads to snap off, and/or, over spinning affecting their holding power.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A cordless drill is still an electric. Just lower voltage DC instead of higher voltage AC.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> A cordless drill is still an electric. Just lower voltage DC instead of higher voltage AC.


That's correct George. I should have made the distinction between corded and cordless.








 





 
.


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## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

Get Deckmate screws from Home Depot that use a T25 driver. Put the boards up with a top and bottom screw, come back and put some screws in any straight ones, and wedge bowed ones straight with wedges off the straight ones. You can put the rest of the screws in later, as you see fit, but don't wait months until they are completely dried out.


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## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

Get Deckmate screws from Home Depot that use a T25 driver. Put the boards up with a top and bottom screw, come back and put some screws in any straight ones, and wedge bowed ones straight with wedges off the straight ones. You can put the rest of the screws in later, as you see fit, but don't wait months until they are completely dried out.

We have a Lot of wooden horse fence, and I haven"t found a nailgun nail that will stay in for many years yet. It's a biannual job to walk the fence, pull any nails that are sticking out, and change them to screws. I built the fence with nailgun over 20 years ago.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Paslode makes a gas powered stapler. I don't know how many staples it will shoot before it's necessary to re-charge the battery and change the gas canister, but it doesn't require a compressor. They also make a roofing nailer that uses collated fasteners. I think i read somewhere that the current version of PT lumber requires stainless fasteners. 

Here's a link to the Paslode nailer.

http://www.paslode.com/staplers/cordless/


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Tom King said:


> Get Deckmate screws from Home Depot that use a T25 driver. Put the boards up with a top and bottom screw, come back and put some screws in any straight ones, and wedge bowed ones straight with wedges off the straight ones. You can put the rest of the screws in later, as you see fit, but don't wait months until they are completely dried out.


Those screws are great. The drive is easy to use and they are cheap to buy. 

Nails? See below.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Kahlua (Dec 6, 2012)

Robson Valley said:


> I only had 80' of new fence to put up. Vertical 1x6. Robertson (square) #8's. One in each rail. I can't see the need for 4 screws per board. Ordinary variable speed drill, long #12 extension cord.


Dogs. You can never overbuild when there's dogs.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

While all the ideas mentioned may or may not work for you. I'm thinking if nailing 9 nails is to much ( exaggerated or not) lugging a compressor and nailer around will be way to much. Airless nailers may be just as bad. Newer screw guns with the compact lithium ion batteries are smaller and less weight and may be the answer. I prefer screws myself because nails will pull out regardless if they are ring shank etc.

If you have Grand children or neighborhood kids that you can use for the heavy work that's the way to go. Let them nail and or screw not to mention fetch all the boards.:thumbsup:


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## lostsoul65 (Mar 15, 2014)

*Screws*

Screws went in so easy that is what I'm doing. Much easier than a hammer. I save a lot of money not buying a nail gun.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

There you go! K.I.S.S. I expect storm wind speeds of 50mph, more in gusts. Shingle-rippers.
2 screws per 1x6 (verticals) and not a dang thing has moved or come off in nearly 10 years.

The deer look into the garden from the alley but no jumpers yet.
I run a Skil variable speed corded 3/8" drill that I bought in 1975. 12ga extension cord.
I have been able to warm that drill up twice.
Real screws are not vulnerable to head snaps in SPF/KD fence wood. Then, so what? It's a fence
not gallery grade furniture. I suggest using another screw!


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