# Installing hinges on compound curved doors



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

To all.

Well, I created a challenge for myself. I thought I was being clever by building some compound curved doors for a cabinet but when I started thinking about how to hinge them I thought I may have outsmarted myself. The hinge stile curves both on the side and the face and each corner comes to a point. I decided knife hinges would be the best/only option. In order to install the hinges at the correct angle I had to establish the chord of the arc of the door edge. Simple enough, just cut at stick the right length with two square ends and then lay it point to point on the door edge and use it to mark the tapered rabbets I have to cut by hand to accept the hinges. Then I had to cut some little tapered mounting blocks to fasten the cabinet side of the hinge. 

I was amazed when it all went together on the first attempt. I think I want to go back and rework the mounting blocks and make them a little nicer. also I was a little disappointed with the size of the notches I had to make in the corners of the door for the hinge knuckle but the hinge could not be installed at the same angle as the door edge. In other words, I could not dap the cabinet side of the hinge into the cabinet because had to be square to the chord which force me to take the full depth of both leaves of the hinge out of he tapered door rabbet. I was able to leave most of the wood on the face of the door to cover most of the hinge. 

Getting the doors installed was a small victory for me on this project and I should be able to complete it quickly form this point. Just need drawer pulls, shelves, detail sanding and finish. Easy compared to where I've been.

Bret


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

Wow, that is awesome work! Love the compound curves, the visual impact, balance, design elements... 

Not to detract, but weren't you working on some compound bicycle fenders, or do i have the wrong person? Any update there?

Anyway, I'd love to see the updates on the cabinet as you add harware, finish, etc. I'd also like to see close ups of the hinges mounting and operation while opening/closing the door. Hope you have time to post more pics. Did i say I liked this? (still stunned by the the cabinet)


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Outsmarted?*

Bret it's pretty hard for a guy a smart as you to be outsmarted!
If if were faced with this problem, I would have either made the door removable or just reached in through the openings.....:blink:
Once again you have astonished me and I stand in awe! Nice work and I'm sure waiting to see the "finish" you choose. :thumbsup: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Nice work. Took some figuring but you got it. Nicely done. Some years ago I came up with a no hinge hinge. This thread gives an explanation. It's similar in principle to a pivot hinge, but no hardware shows.












 









.


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## Csbespoke (Dec 4, 2010)

I worked on a similar project a few years back and hit the same problem as you I finished it by making my own wooden hinges on the woodrat to be honest the hinges took longer than the cabinet can't wait to see the unit finished what are you finishing it with it looks awesome true craftsmanship a credit to the trade


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Now THAT is a work of art!! 

George


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

*interesting hinge*



cabinetman said:


> Nice work. Took some figuring but you got it. Nicely done. Some years ago I came up with a no hinge hinge. This thread gives an explanation. It's similar in principle to a pivot hinge, but no hardware shows.
> 
> Thanks for the info,
> 
> ...


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Very impressive to say the least. Nice work. I liked this cabinet from your first post.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Lola Ranch said:


> I'm not sure if this hinge would work in this application or not. You would have to cut a shoulder square to the chord to mount it to. Might work? Might need a longer pin?
> 
> Bret



I wasn't suggesting to use the metal pivot hinge in the post. The pop rivet/screw method might be an alternative in which no hardware will show. The pop rivets come in a variety of lengths and diameter sizes. The trick with your cabinet might be if you can get access to the top part of the cabinet to drill for a screw. The bottom would be the pop rivet.

For face framed cabinets, the drilling has to be (or should be) before the FF is installed. Reason for that is the hole has to be at a certain angle, and to get the right angle, the stile woud be in the way of the drill housing. So, the parts have to be done prior to assembly and installation to the cabinet.

For frameless cabinets, the drilling has to be (or should be ) done before the case is assembled for the same reason. I'm thinking for a cabinet like yours, you would have to assemble the parts flat and lay in the door to the parts. Then use a 6' straghtedge to draw a line (the chord to the stile) on the door to get the drilling angle. It sounds involved, but it isn't really. Hey, I do it and I'm just a simple guy.

The spacing at the bottom (for the rivet) is with a 3/16" or #10 washer, which are both thin enough for the gap to look appealing. For the top hole in the door, a plastic type sleeve can be used to keep the screw from wallowing out the hole. In a jam I've even used a plastic anchor. Or, instead of a screw and sleeve, you could use a brite 16d common nail and cut it off the length you need.












 









.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

We tig & machine some pretty "trick", engineered hinges......top/bttm pin style.By using offsets and different spacing from door edge you can get clearance's and some neat effects.

Love your cabinet!BW


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

That is some cool engineering! :thumbsup:

Gotta love the surprises! :huh:


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