# My Router Table Build Thread



## ryan50hrl

Ok....so i've decided its time to get my free standing router table built. So Here is the plan for it......i'm utilizing a jessem router lift for mounting the router....and the top is going to be 34x24.....cabinet is going to be 40 inches high....

I'm really needing bit storage as I think a 35 dollar roundover bit rolled off the workbench and ended up in the trashcan.....last week....



Anyhow....so here it goes.....


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## ryan50hrl

Left side.....the long space is going to be a multi level router bit pull out......on the right side the top section is going to be a power switch....the next drawer down is going to be for wrenches and whatnot......the two drawers below that are for misc. router parts...Bottom two sections are going to be for extra router bases.....plate jointer....ect. Anyhow....here is cutting down the top.....and gluing it together....obviously slightly oversized at this point....


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## Ostie

Looking forward to watching this. I need to do this soon myself.


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## DitchDoc

I need to do this too. I am looking forward to seeing how it goes.


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## ryan50hrl

Progress was a bit slow this weekend....top is now trimmed to size and is getting maple banding installed.


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## MT Stringer

Looking good.


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## oklahomaben

Looks good man!!! I'm also gearing up to build a router table mine is gonna be somewhat smaller tho. I have to keep things compact and easy to put away since my wife still insists in putting her car in the garage lol oh well she's supportive of my wood habit so it's a fair trade!!!


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## ryan50hrl

Update. Edges done....now laminating the top


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## ryan50hrl

Well no more progress today.....I searched and searched for the roundover bit that I think ended up in the trash.....Pretty sure its gone.....so on to router bit buying instead of building...


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## oklahomaben

Man that's sucks. Good luck!!!


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## ryan50hrl

SCORE!!! I found it....apparently I used it a few weeks ago in my spare router table and forgot it was there. Back to work!!!!


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## Wema826

Chop chop! we are waiting..


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## ryan50hrl

Laminate installed....I think I'll give it a day or toe before routing the edges. I plan on rounding over the edges.


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## Burb

Ryan, how thick is your top? Looks like 2 layers of 3/4" MDF but wasn't sure. On a side note I'm excited of this build. I almost bought a set of online plans from somewhere (woodcraft or Rockler I think) that looked similar. I was hesitant about the top, but this build may fix that.

Mark


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## ryan50hrl

The top is 2 layers of MDF, edged with 1/2 inch thick maple. And then all covered with Formica....


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## johnnie52

Looks good so far.

I wish I had the room to build a router station. Alas the best I can do is a Craftsman pro bolted to the side of my table saw.


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## ryan50hrl

Ok......so i've been wrestling with how to cut the hole for the lift......The jessem template is 26 bucks for a chunk of mdf they cut to the right size.....which is BS if you ask me......it ought to come with. Anyhow.....I was digging around online and found this....

http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/100/6-step-router-plate-installation.pdf

I may try this but with a forstner bit in the corners to avoid drilling all the way through....


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## ryan50hrl

So I got back to work today on the router table this weekend. Before I could do much else I needed to get plywood for the cabinet. I swung down to home depot and picked up a couple sheets of 3/4 inch birch plywood. Suprisingly......it's actually full 3/4 inch plywood.....at a big box store!! 

Anyhow.....Cut the first sheet down today, side panels are now to size and the dados are cut on the top and bottom. Pictures to follow in the next day or two....


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## ssgtjoenunez

This looks great. For now I bought a pre-fab table and then mounted it to a simple 3x4" table top on 4x4 legs. I wanted function over form so I could work on making better, more complicated things later. I'm almost done setting up Wood Shop version 1. Then it will be practicing for version 2. 

Nice build!


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## ryan50hrl

Ok.....so all the cabinet plywood is cut.......dados have been cut in.....and the exterior cabinet is glued up.


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## garryswf

Good start Ryan, anxious to watch this build. After I retire I might just build a dedicated router table instead of having it on my TS.


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## BrandonD

Have you decided on how you're going to cut out the portion for the plate yet?


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## ryan50hrl

I have a template that I'll be using which matches the oem solution.


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## ryan50hrl

Well I got some real progress done tonight...The cabinet is all assembled, 5/16 inch maple edge banding is installed, and its ready to have final sanding done as soon as all the glue dries.


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## ryan50hrl

Still undecided if i'm going to just go with 4 casters, or if i'm going to build a DIY triangulated mobile base....I'm leaning towards 4 casters just to get it done!!!


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## ssgtjoenunez

Hey Ryan what is the cabinet made of? It looks like 3/4" plywood - birch maybe? I'm very impressed with the cabinet. I'm about to make one for my new drill press and am scavenging ideas from everyone else's builds.


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## ryan50hrl

ssgtjoenunez said:


> Hey Ryan what is the cabinet made of? It looks like 3/4" plywood - birch maybe? I'm very impressed with the cabinet. I'm about to make one for my new drill press and am scavenging ideas from everyone else's builds.


It is 3/4 inch birch ply. Surprisingly it's actually a full and exact 3/4 inch....which I wasn't expecting. I got it at Home Depot for 42 bucks a sheet. They were perfectly straight and flat...I was pretty amazed for big box plywood.


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## d_slat

ryan50hrl said:


> It is 3/4 inch birch ply. Surprisingly it's actually a full and exact 3/4 inch....which I wasn't expecting. I got it at Home Depot for 42 bucks a sheet. They were perfectly straight and flat...I was pretty amazed for big box plywood.


How is it as far as quality? Is there a lot of overlaps or voids, or is it pretty good?


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## ryan50hrl

d_slat said:


> How is it as far as quality? Is there a lot of overlaps or voids, or is it pretty good?


It wasn't bad at all. I didn't find a single overlap, and very few voids. The voids I did find were tiny and looked to be just a few small knots that came it of the ply...

I don't really like working with plywood....but if I need more in the future I'll have no qualms about buying more.


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## garryswf

Looks good Ryan, you are going to have plenty of storage. Have you give dust collection any thoughts yet.


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## ryan50hrl

Yeah......dust collection is going to get cut into the back eventually....


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## IlliniBone

ryan50hrl said:


> Still undecided if i'm going to just go with 4 casters, or if i'm going to build a DIY triangulated mobile base....I'm leaning towards 4 casters just to get it done!!!


I bought 4 solid casters from Harbor Freight for around $18 for my last mobile cabinet, they are holding up real well.


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## ryan50hrl

I've put they're casters on my other stuff and been pretty happy...my current dilemma is the floor isn't perfectly level which causes a bit of wobble with 4 casters....


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## ssgtjoenunez

ryan50hrl said:


> It is 3/4 inch birch ply. Surprisingly it's actually a full and exact 3/4 inch....which I wasn't expecting. I got it at Home Depot for 42 bucks a sheet. They were perfectly straight and flat...I was pretty amazed for big box plywood.


Thought that looked pretty familiar 

I actually thought it was their 23/32" variety so its impressive to find a true 3/4". 

I'm planning to go pick some up today or tomorrow to build my miter stand and a cabinet for my drill press to stand on. I've got some good ideas on the drill press stand but am on my second attempt at the miter stand...my first attempt using retractable wings for lumber support didn't live up to expectations. 

Either way the cabinet looks great man. I like it!


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## cps

ryan50hrl said:


> I've put they're casters on my other stuff and been pretty happy...my current dilemma is the floor isn't perfectly level which causes a bit of wobble with 4 casters....


 
My garage has the same problem. I have thought about using some self-leveling floor leveler to fix the problem, but have not gotten around to doing it. I would not have to level the entire floor, but perhaps a few “work areas” that I could then move by mobile equipment on when I need to use them.


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## ryan50hrl

cps said:


> My garage has the same problem. I have thought about using some self-leveling floor leveler to fix the problem, but have not gotten around to doing it. I would not have to level the entire floor, but perhaps a few &#147;work areas&#148; that I could then move by mobile equipment on when I need to use them.



A 2 dollar pack of shims laying around has been my current solution....it's looking to remain the solution for the long haul.


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## Chris Curl

my garage is actually sloped a little towards the front. i have always assumed it was like that to aide the drainage of any water might happen to get in. either that, or something has happened over the years to cause it to no longer be level. on top of that, it is also not flat, so pretty much all of my shop tables have leg height adjusters. many of my mobile stations have rollers on only 2 legs and i lift the other side up to move it. that way i can still adjust it so it doesn't rock.


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## cps

ryan50hrl said:


> A 2 dollar pack of shims laying around has been my current solution....it's looking to remain the solution for the long haul.


 
I do the same thing.....


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## ssgtjoenunez

ryan50hrl said:


> A 2 dollar pack of shims laying around has been my current solution....it's looking to remain the solution for the long haul.


I just don't put casters on it and instead drill and put in threaded inserts into the legs and use carriage bolts as levelers. Its helped immensely with being able to set the heights of multiple tables to the exact same even if the work floor isn't perfectly level or if the legs don't sit perfect because the wood isn't square.


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## ryan50hrl

I'd do that, except my shop is fairly small and tools regularly need to move around to fit.


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## Chris Curl

ssgtjoenunez said:


> I just don't put casters on it and instead drill and put in threaded inserts into the legs and use carriage bolts as levelers. Its helped immensely with being able to set the heights of multiple tables to the exact same even if the work floor isn't perfectly level or if the legs don't sit perfect because the wood isn't square.


tee nuts for me ... :thumbsup:


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## MT Stringer

My garage is the same way...uneven. So I have to shim each tool I move, and they all get moved around for various use. I do have three of the Harbor Freight mobile bases and they work pretty well. The others are just carts/stands on casters.


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## ssgtjoenunez

Ryan did you rabbet the top of the cabinet or is it simply glued because you'll be putting another table top on top of it?


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## ryan50hrl

ssgtjoenunez said:


> Ryan did you rabbet the top of the cabinet or is it simply glued because you'll be putting another table top on top of it?


 The top is rabbeted as well as the back is rabbeted into the cabinet.

An edge to face glue joint in plywood doesn't have much strength at all, and after all the table top will fasten to the cabinet top. 

If I was nailing or screwing any of it together I may have skipped the rabbets, but the only nails in it are the trim nails holding the edge banding on.....and mostly there as I was too lazy to wait for glue to dry.


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## ssgtjoenunez

ryan50hrl said:


> The top is rabbeted as well as the back is rabbeted into the cabinet.
> 
> An edge to face glue joint in plywood doesn't have much strength at all, and after all the table top will fasten to the cabinet top.
> 
> If I was nailing or screwing any of it together I may have skipped the rabbets, but the only nails in it are the trim nails holding the edge banding on.....and mostly there as I was too lazy to wait for glue to dry.


So rabbets on the top and back and then dados for the shelves...how are you planning to secure the top? 

What did you use for to hold the sides to the bottom of the cabinet, another rabbet? I'm just curious because I've got two cabinets to build, one for a miter saw and one for the drill press and I was thinking of being lazy and using screws but might experiment with rabbet joints since I haven't done those yet.


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## ryan50hrl

I'm planning on using screws through the top of the cabinet to mount the top. 

I recently built a wheeled storage cabinet for my shop, utilizing kreg jig pocket holes and it was sufficient as well. It probably isn't quite as sturdy, bet met my needs for shop use fine.


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## ssgtjoenunez

ryan50hrl said:


> I'm planning on using screws through the top of the cabinet to mount the top.
> 
> I recently built a wheeled storage cabinet for my shop, utilizing kreg jig pocket holes and it was sufficient as well. It probably isn't quite as sturdy, bet met my needs for shop use fine.


I've built several benches for my laundromat using pocket holes. I bought a jig (*though not a Kreg) and it seems to do the trick. 

I'm gonna dig in this weekend and see what comes out besides saw dust.


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## mrcanterbury

I built a similar model router table saw (new yankee) and the top is so heavy, I only used 4 blocks to register it in the cabinet. It's not secured and has worked on countless projects in the last few years. Still strong.


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## ryan50hrl

So back to work.......Tonight I got it all sanded....and the hole cut into the top of the cabinet.


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## ryan50hrl

First coat of poly on.......dang I hate brushing on finishes.......spraying is soooooooo much easier.


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## garryswf

looking good Ryan, how many coats of poly are you putting on? Does it get wheels?


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## ryan50hrl

Well we'll see how much patience I have......the outside will get at least 3 coats......the inside....maybe 1 more.....

It is getting casters just as soon as the poly is done.


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## ryan50hrl

Another coat of poly....and got the casters mounted.


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## Burb

Ryan, thats really looking nice and functional. Woodcraft has plans for a similar design that I have looked at a few times.http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2082548/31339/Router-Table---Downloadable-Plan.aspx

I even contacted Woodcraft customer support to ask then about plan joinery questions. The guy I ended up speaking with on the phone had actually just built it, but he modified it to use pocket screws instead.

Whenever I actually get a shop with more room, I'd like to make one similar to yours. I can then keep my current grizzly table set up for dedicated rounder over, since I seem to use that more than anything.

Regardless, thank you VERY much for sharing your build with me (and others ). I greatly appreciate it!!


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## ryan50hrl

So i've layed out the top how I think I'll use it....Kreg combo track to run across the front.......mini T-tracks in the back to mount the fence.


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## JohnnyG73

Great build Ryan!

I have a similar project going on but it's only a case that fits inside a kreg stand. When you assembled and glued-up the base it looks like you "slid" the dividers in after the outside of the case was glued together. Is this what you did? I may be wrong, maybe the picture was only showing a test fit. I considered sliding the dividers in after the outside was glued-up but thought it would push out the glue as I slid the dividers in...so I instead started assembling from the inside outward, starting with the dividers and ending with the outside and the back.

Another thing I considered was if I wanted the drawers to have slides and if they would vibrate out if they did not have some sort way of retaining them. I ended up simply making the drawers to fit the slots without any way of them being retained. I have operated the router with the drawers in place and haven't had any problem with vibration causing them to move. I figured that if in the future it ever became a problem I could counter-bore and glue rare earth magnets into the back of the drawers and cabinet to retain the drawers. I skipped the slides because of the cost and also how much a slide on each side would take away from the drawer size. How do you plan on doing the drawers?

Again, awesome build!:thumbsup: Can't wait to see more.


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## ryan50hrl

I do plan on using ball bearing drawer slides....it will end up about 5 bucks a drawer for the slides, which I didn't think was too bad. They have a small catch in them that should keep them from vibrating out...

Other than that the drawers will be 1/2 inch ply, glued and nailed. Nothing fancy. 

I did glue up the exterior shell and then slide the interior in...a bit of glue did push out but it was still plenty left to do the job.


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## ryan50hrl

So today I cut the lift in.....as well as the combo miter, mini t track......I'm officially beginning to hate MDF......someone should develop dust free MDF....


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> .I'm officially beginning to hate MDF......someone should develop dust free MDF....


I feel your pain. I had same issues when I made my mobile workbench.


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## garryswf

that looks really nice Ryan, you also did a nice job routing in the hole for the plate. did you get the new bit to do the opening?


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## ryan50hrl

I did......I had been using an el cheapo harbor freight 1/2 spiral bit to do test cuts......(broke my own rule against buying cheap bits/blades)......but as soon as I picked up a frued 1/2 inch straight bit.....It was a perfect fit.


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## purplenurple

Please confirm or correct me here. Never seen a router table except the one at our shop. Well I've sewn them just not paid any attention. The one long track from side to side does the miter cuts and the two parallel runs do the fence correct? Oh tabke has 4 screws that hokd a make shift fence and is pretty rigged up


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## ryan50hrl

Yep....You got it.....the track that's in already is a combo track that holds feather boards or uses a sled...


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## Masterofnone

ryan50hrl said:


> So today I cut the lift in.....as well as the combo miter, mini t track......I'm officially beginning to hate MDF......someone should develop dust free MDF....


 I built my own router lift... someday I'm going to get the gumption and buy one. So much nicer.


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## purplenurple

Masterofnone said:


> I built my own router lift... someday I'm going to get the gumption and buy one. So much nicer.


A router lift?


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## ryan50hrl

I had a few minutes to play around with the lift....and can't see why I waited so long I get one. It's awesome.


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## garryswf

where you planning on mounting the power switch?


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> I had a few minutes to play around with the lift....and can't see why I waited so long I get one. It's awesome.


I've been wanting a lift for awhile myself. Unfortunately no one makes a lift to fit my router table without replacing the top. Someday...


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## ryan50hrl

garryswf said:


> where you planning on mounting the power switch?


 The top right cubby in the cabinet.

I've got a big paddle switch from grizzly, and I'll have the plug and cross behind the switch in that cubby.


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## JohnnyG73

purplenurple said:


> A router lift?


A router lift is a mechanism that holds a router and mounts under the table surface. With it, the router height can be adjusted from above the table in small increments for precision.

Without one, the router height usually needs to be adjusted from under the table and then the holding clamp on the router itself needs to be opened and closed...which in most cases the action of closing the clamp can slightly change the height.

Even without a router lift, most routers have an option to adjust the height from above the table with a wrench through a hole in the surface. This is not as accurate as an actual router lift mechanism though. You can achieve the same results but it just takes more time and adjustment.


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## ryan50hrl

So the mini t track for mounting the fence arrived. Here it is mounted in.


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## ryan50hrl

Well the powerbox is wired up...One thing that I was trying to avoid is getting the power area all full of dust. Even with good dust control, it gets everywhere as you all know. So I built a dust seal to seal off the cord entering the power area. I utilized a piece of inner tube and a small block of maple to create a barrier.


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## ryan50hrl

It just occurred to me....I forgot to plan for the dust collection from the fence......oops....I guess a 4 inch port screwed to the back isn't going to work. Back to the drawing board.


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## ryan50hrl

So bit storage was important to me as I've got a few hundred dollars of bits rolling around in a drawer right now. Therefore there will be a pull out to house all those bits in a safe manner here...


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## ryan50hrl

Bit storage progressing.


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## Burb

Continues to look great!! Keep it up and thanks for sharing.


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## ryan50hrl

Third shelf bottom in.....

So the plane is to utilize some 1/2 inch HDPE on top of the side blocks with holes drilled for the router bits. The bottom shelves you see now will keep the bit from dropping all the way through. The very bottom shelf is angled at 15 degrees to make it a bit easier to get bits in and out of.....but the top two are level.


Now I just have to find a cheap source for HDPE....


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> Now I just have to find a cheap source for HDPE....


PM sent.


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## ryan50hrl

Anyone else that's built a bit holder used something other than plastic for the holder itself? 3 pieces of hdpe are going to run me 40 bucks, which is ridiculous. I had thought of using hardboard or Baltic birch, but was concerned humidity could cause them to tighten down on the bits to the point it's hard to get them out. Thoughts?


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## garryswf

I do I do, soon as I can snap a picture and send it. But if I send the stuff to you it will cost ya!!!!! Let me see now, would it be worth a jar of Huckleberry jelly ?


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## garryswf

This is 3/4" foam that we get in some of our parts shipments.


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## ryan50hrl

That looks like what I used in my tool box....sadly I need something more rigid for this design.


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## BrandonD

The bottoms of my bit drawers are composed of a piece of 3/4" ply and a piece of luan plywood on the bottom. I drilled holes entirely through the 3/4 ply and the luan acts as the bottom. While I just completed the router table a few weeks ago, the bit drawers were done many many months ago and I never noticed any issue with the bits coming in and out. I haven't had plywood expand or contact much on me, even in FL humidity. I think it's due to the nature of the construction (grain direction alternated between plys.)


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## ryan50hrl

Well I sucked it up and just bought the hdpe.


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## JMartel

I was going to suggest trying to find a 7mm and a 13mm drill bit. Will be just over 1/4" and 1/2" respectively. Should provide enough clearance to allow easy insertion/removal, but not too much slop to allow it to fall out.


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## ryan50hrl

First shelf done.


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## ryan50hrl

Well I finally got around to installing the first set of drawer slides.....maybe I'll get this done by the end of the year!!


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## ryan50hrl

Pics


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## UVaJester

Subscribed... Thank you for sharing!


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## ryan50hrl

So it's been a while....but I finally got all the drawers built tonight. Now just to get some finish on them and get them installed....then make drawer fronts and a door.....and it might be finished by this time next year!!!


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## BAD WOLF

Wow very nice build


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## Chamfer

I like the bit storage drawer, looks pretty slick and convenient.

Wish I had the room to put a big table like that.


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## ryan50hrl

Thanks. I don't really have room either, it's why everything is on wheels. Kinda a pain, but better than no shop. 

I'm not super happy about the bit storage, the bits are drilled into a piece of hdpe, but they're a bit tight to get in and out.


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## Smith Brother

I guess it's time for a BIGGER drill bit, hehe.

Nice piece.

Dale in Indy


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## ryan50hrl

The problem is its 1/2...and what I really need is like 33/64....and I haven't got around to ordering a new bit.


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## Burb

Looks great. I may try to incorporate a few things I see on your in my design. 

I purchased the Woodcraft plans for building one (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/151220D/Router-Table---Downloadable-Plan.aspx) about 6-months ago and am hoping to build it this February. I personally don't want any router bit storage drawers with the holes as I keep all my bits in th original packages they come in as almost all my bits are purchased locally at Grizzly. My plan is to have 2 drawers for 1/4" & 2 drawers for 1/2" collets.


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## ryan50hrl

Well I'm happy to share the plans if anyone wants them, it's a pretty straight forward design I think.


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> Well I'm happy to share the plans if anyone wants them, it's a pretty straight forward design I think.


Was it your design? Either way I'd like to see them. Is it something you can email, fax, or ?? Either way please let me know. Thanks.


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## ryan50hrl

It is my design. Give me a day or two and I'll dimension it in autocad. Shoot me a pm with your email address.


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## JamesE27

Very nice Ryan


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## Jophus14

This is a great build. I would love to build a router table/cabinet some day. That is the tool I use the most when working on projects. I'm anxious to see the table finished. Thanks for sharing.


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## ryan50hrl

Guys....I'm working on dimensioning the plans and converting them over to PDF form.....It may take a bit as they were on my old computer and it's taking me a bit of time to convert them. 

Anyhow....stand by....


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## doghousebass

Nice work! Gonna be my next project.


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## ryan50hrl

Thanks....I'm trying to decide what to face the drawers with.

I need to still get some finish on the drawers, mount them, get drawer fronts on, get a door built and buy a fence. 

I should have it complete by 2017.


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> I should have it complete by 2017.


LOL. 2017... I was beginning to think that was going to be my case as well; however, since I have 3 projects to do for my house (full-size headboard for daughter, sewing station, and murphy bed for spare bedroom), I am planning on my new router table next as I feel it will be helpful with the other projects. I downloaded the Woodcraft Router Table plans, (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/151220D/router-table--downloadable-plan.aspx)about 6 months ago & my intention is to use them and follow them closely as I'm better at following plans than I am with going out on my own :yes:

My intention is to purchase the following for this table:
- Woodpeckers 24x32 Phenolic Table Top
- Woodpeckers Super Fence w/ flips stops (2) & micro adjust
- Incra Mast-R-Lift II w/ Additional Inserts (magnetic inserts)

While I'm not trying to spend extra $$, I'd rather spend $$ once and have it last the rest of my life (hopefully 35+ years) so I don't mind buying quality stuff. I'm curious what you, as well as others, think of my intentions.

Also, is there something about your table that you wish you did differently? Specifically referring to the drawers and items you made vs purchased. 

Any and all comments will be greatly appreciated.


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## ryan50hrl

I've been pretty happy with mine so far, I'd have spent the money (and probably still will) on a 3 wheel Mobil base setup. My floor isn't perfectly level so the 4 wheels rock a bit. 

I'm a bit concerned about how I'm going to screw the drawer slides in at the back of the narrow drawers....but I'm sure I'll figure something out.

My problem is I have a lot of projects going on....and so none get a ton of attention, but luckily they're all coming together now so I'm hoping I can get this done.


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## JamesE27

Ryan did you ever get the plans done?


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## wumpabill39

Very well done Ryan,your router cabinet looks very functional, I am going to build one like yours if it okay with you,,How do I get your plans to build the router cabinet. what router are you using? Have you checked on a 13mm drill bit for the 1/2 inch bits? works great for the 1/2 inch size
Thanks Bill


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## ryan50hrl

Hi guys. I am working on the plans, which I had to recreate as I mistakenly disposed of them on my old computer. Hopefully I'll have them really soon. I will post here when I have them done. 

To answer the second question I am using a craftsman pro 27680 router in this table. I own 3 of this router and can't find any reason to spend more as its a beast of a router, well built, and has great features.


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## wumpabill39

Thanks for getting back Ryan,I will wait for your plans, and that craftsman router is a very good one,I have one like it, what model is the lift


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## ryan50hrl

The lift is a Jessem rout-r-lift


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> I've been pretty happy with mine so far, I'd have spent the money (and probably still will) on a 3 wheel Mobil base setup. My floor isn't perfectly level so the 4 wheels rock a bit.
> 
> I'm a bit concerned about how I'm going to screw the drawer slides in at the back of the narrow drawers....but I'm sure I'll figure something out.
> 
> My problem is I have a lot of projects going on....and so none get a ton of attention, but luckily they're all coming together now so I'm hoping I can get this done.


Thanks for your reply. I'm not concerned with the 4-wheels as my floor has proven to be very smooth. As for the tight quarters for screwing, I'll keep that in mind, though I do have a right angle hammerhead drill which might work.


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> The lift is a Jessem rout-r-lift


Can I ask why you chose this one over the Mast-R-Lift II?


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## ryan50hrl

Burb said:


> Can I ask why you chose this one over the Mast-R-Lift II?



Well I couldn't justify spending close to twice as much when the rout-r-lift 2 had virtually everything I needed. 

My table is MDF surfaces with formica, I didn't see the need for an aluminum plate when the rest of the table wasn't metal.

The posts are still a whopping 3/4 or more steel, the clamps still machined aluminum, same cam lock system, anodized parts are nice to look at, but provided no additional benefit for me.


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## wumpabill39

ryan what is the model number of the jessem lift


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## ryan50hrl

wumpabill39 said:


> ryan what is the model number of the jessem lift



It's the rout-r-lift 2....check the below chart for your router. My craftsman router used lift 2310.


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## wumpabill39

Thanks found it at Amazon for $229.99 
*JessEm Rout-R-Lift II Router Lift For 3-1/2" Diameter Motors, JessEm# 02310*


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## ryan50hrl

Woodcraft has it for 189.99


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## wumpabill39

ryan50hrl said:


> Woodcraft has it for 189.99


Great I will get it from them:thumbsup:


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## ryan50hrl

One other thing that you'll need is the template to cut the hole in the top unless your buying a Jessem top. Let me know if your making your own top or buying one.


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## Smith Brother

Grandma was SLOW, but she was 85 and expecting. What's your excuse?

Just giving ya a hard time....

I'm sure it will SOMEDAY be nice, maybe, hehe.

Have fun, FUN IS SO GOOD!

Dale in Indy


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## ryan50hrl

Lol...between my humidifier install, rewiring the shop, building the entertainment center, building the vanity for my inlaws and generally screwing off for winter I just haven't got to it.


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## wumpabill39

ryan50hrl said:


> One other thing that you'll need is the template to cut the hole in the top unless your buying a Jessem top. Let me know if your making your own top or buying one.


I am going to build my own top like you did,so what template do I need


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## ryan50hrl

This template allows you to cut the hole in the top exactly the right size for the plate. 

http://m.woodcraft.com/aHR0cDovL3d3...vODIwOTA1L0luc3RhbGxhdGlvbi1UZW1wbGF0ZS5hc3B4

See your private messages.


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## wumpabill39

Thank you got the PM


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## ryan50hrl

Ok.....So here's what I've got. And I've got a PDF version if you'd like it. Just shoot me a PM with your email address. I know I've probably missed a few key dimensions here so if anyone sees something they need that's not dimensioned...let me know. All the material is 3/4 inch, and all dados are 1/4 inch deep except the 4 outside corners which were 1/2 inch.

Last but not least....the cabinet is 21.5 inches deep. I set a 3/4 inch back panel into it, but I don't know that that was needed as a 1/2 or 1/4 inch back probably would have sufficed. 

View attachment 120138


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## ryan50hrl

Even better......PDF is attached to the last post.

I will work on getting the top drawn out and posted as well.


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> Even better......PDF is attached to the last post.
> 
> I will work on getting the top drawn out and posted as well.


Thanks for your efforts. I (and I'm sure others) appreciate this :thumbsup:


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## ryan50hrl

No problem. I hope It works out for others. I do plan on also drawing up the top....I didn't draw the drawers as some may prefer to use doors instead....I included pictures earlier in this thread relating to the bit storage but if needed can provide more detail there as well.


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## wumpabill39

ryan50hrl said:


> No problem. I hope It works out for others. I do plan on also drawing up the top....I didn't draw the drawers as some may prefer to use doors instead....I included pictures earlier in this thread relating to the bit storage but if needed can provide more detail there as well.


Thanks Ryan this helps,:thumbsup: downloaded your .pdf thanks


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## ryan50hrl

No problem. Happy to help!!


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## ryan50hrl

So the top is built from 2 layers of 3/4 inch MDF, Trimmed with 3/4 inch Maple, and covered with white formica. The top also utilized a Bench Dog Dual T-Track/Miter Track, A jessem Rout-R-Lift and Peach Tree Mini-T Tracks. (PDF is attached for download)










http://jessem.com/ROUT-R-LIFT_II.html

http://www.ptreeusa.com/ttrackproducts.htm

http://www.benchdog.com/dual-track.cfm


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## arvanlaar

Potential solution for your unlevel floor problem if straight casters won't work. 

I don't know what they are called but I was at the lumber yard and they had a step stool that was on wheels. As soon as you stepped on it, it was resting on solid feet. I don't know if you have seen one of those before but would that help? I am not sure how you would activate casters going up to let it rest on legs but I am sure some genius' on here and think of something


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## ryan50hrl

I've got a few plans drawn out for articulating the casters....but jamming a shim under the corner is the quickest solution right now until I get the rest done. (Read as 2019)


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## ryan50hrl

Well after long and careful deliberation, I've decided to order the peach tree supreme router fence. It should be here in a few days.


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## ryan50hrl

Well the router fence is on and functional. Now to finish the rest!!!


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## ryan50hrl

Finally getting to installing the drawers. Built a few just a hair right so some sanding is needed.


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## ryan50hrl

I really need a right angle drill....


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## ryan50hrl

Well all the drawers are in....on to drawer fronts and a door.


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## ryan50hrl

Started drawer fronts today....they are going to be 5/8 thick maple.


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## Burb

Would you mind shoeing some close ups of how you secured the router bit drawer? And how you mounted the drawer slides for this drawer? Also, brand and specs for drawer slide would be great. Thx.


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## ryan50hrl

Here they are.....It's pretty simple, it's just two full extension drawer slides on the side. 

I used these drawer slides in 20 inches....however ANY full extension slides would work fine. 

http://gliderite.com/20-side-mount-...inch-over-travel-packaged-10-pair-per-carton/


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## Burb

ryan50hrl said:


> Here they are.....It's pretty simple, it's just two full extension drawer slides on the side. I used these drawer slides in 20 inches....however ANY full extension slides would work fine. http://gliderite.com/20-side-mount-100-lb-full-extension-drawer-slides-with-1-inch-over-travel-packaged-10-pair-per-carton/


Thanks. The router cabinet I'm building will by many firsts for me: first cabinet, first drawers, first drawer slides, etc. Your info gonna help.

Mark


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## ryan50hrl

No problem.


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## ryan50hrl

Back to working on it tonight....glued up a door for the router enclosure. Used 2 1/4 maple rails and stiles with 1/4 inch lexan in the center.


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## ryan50hrl

Home stretch now. 

Drawers have been lacquered...

Drawer fronts polyurethaned and installed...

Door goes on next


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## Burb

Thats gonna be sweet. No way I'll post about my router table build. Not after seeing your done!!!


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## ryan50hrl

Thanks man....but you absolutely should post yours...

Here's the door installed. It's a plain old door with 1/4 lexan in it. 










The door has a cutout on the bottom in the hopes the air flowing across the bottom of the cabinet will carry the dust out. 










The bit drawer is all finished up as well with plenty of room for bit growth.


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## ryan50hrl

Storage includes easy access for wrenches, collets and adjustment tools.








Space for base plates, bushings and feather boards..








Plunge and d handle bases. 









Biscuit jointer and kreg jig 









And spare routers...


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## was2ndlast

I wish my home furniture projects looked so good


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## ryan50hrl

Thanks man.....it's the culmination of 15 months of work.....it turned out almost as good as I had hoped. A few things I had done differently, but all in all its going to be a nice addition to the shop.


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## ryan50hrl

So the very last thing I've got to finish up is the dust collection from the fence....the rest of the dust collection works great. With the door open it catches about half the dust. Close the door and you can see the air rush right over the bottom from the opening at the bottom of the door to the port in the back. Dust is gone in half a second or so. 

While not ideal from a straight line approach...I think this is going to be the connection to the fence.


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## Toolman50

*Router Table*

Ryan
What a great looking router table. Good job!
I'm now ashamed of my old router table. 
I have a tendency to make shop fixtures fast out of any left over materials I have. Everything's strong and functional, but not so pretty. 
Your new router table Rocks. 
Thanks for sharing. 
Jim


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## ryan50hrl

Thanks man!! No need to be ashamed of anything. I myself often throw together scrap jigs. Here's a jig I built recently to put key hole hangers in the back of some necklace hangers my wife's making...100% scrap!!


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## dtsdig

Any final pics of the dust collection? You did a phenomenal job on this design and build. I really appreciate you sharing it with us!


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## ryan50hrl

I'll take some pictures tonight and update the thread with dust collection images.


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## ryan50hrl

So the branch off my main line has a splitter on it, allowing both the cabinet and the fence to get hooked up.








The cabinet uses a flat 4 inch hose adapter screwed to the back at the base level of the router space 


















The bottom of the door has a groove cut into it (building a shorter door would have worked too) that allows air to flow over the floor of the cabinet pulling dust to the back. 










And it's all hooked up to this. 










The dust collection works great, the fence catches 99% of what's coming off the top, and I've never cleaned the cabinet out, and you can see the only dust that builds up is in the corners, and it's pretty minimal too.


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## dtsdig

Looks awesome! Thanks.
I am aiming to have my Super Dust Deputy XL hooked up this summer. I'm glad to see yours is working well!


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## ryan50hrl

A few comments about the dust deputy. Do anything you can to have a 6 inch pipe feeding it. It was starved for air flow with a 4 inch running back to the DC. Also....if possible, run a 5 inch line to your main lines....mine was already done with 4 inch and works ok, but doesn't draw real well from the ends of the shop.


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## dtsdig

Thanks for the suggestions. I definitely learned a lot following your dust collection thread. With the XL, it's 6" in and 6" out so I am planning for a 6" main trunk in the shop and will be able to run 6" from the deputy to the inlet on the DC. I was thinking I would run 4" branches from the main trunk to the tools since using flexible 4" hose to the tools is easiest. Since everything in my shop (garage) is on wheels and gets moved around a lot, I am only planning on 2 branches with a shut off gate on each.


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