# Waterlox



## Tyler96 (Jan 29, 2013)

Anyone ever use this stuff? I've used it quite a bit but our bottle at school turned to gel and the teacher won't buy anymore. I don't want to buy a bottle of my own for 30 dollars a quart. 

What would be an equivalent of this finish? Would BLO give a similar or better result?


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## panhandler (Apr 28, 2011)

I've never used blo, but I have just used waterlox for a dining table project I just finished and it seems to be worth every penny!













This may become my finish of choice for future projects. It is so easy to use!


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Tyler96 said:


> Anyone ever use this stuff? I've used it quite a bit but our bottle at school turned to gel and the teacher won't buy anymore. I don't want to buy a bottle of my own for 30 dollars a quart.
> 
> What would be an equivalent of this finish? Would BLO give a similar or better result?


This is the nature of the beast, my work around is to divide the quart into smaller bottles and make sure they are full. I bought 2 oz bottles and use them on S & P mills. You can also use bloxygen to seal off the remainder. I even tried using glass marbles to take up the amount I uased but that did not work. Putting it into smaller bottles works great. I still have 1/2 of the quart that is 12 months old.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Most varnish is made with some kind of oil, along with resins and thinners in varying percentages. Some have more thinners and less resin to make them wipe on more easily (but take longer to build a film) Some are thicker from a higher ratio of resin and build more quickly. Waterlox decided to use only tung oil for the oil part, that's why it costs more. Any varnish will do more or less what Waterlox does, but there are those who believe tung oil pops the grain better and imparts a certain glow.


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## Improv (Aug 13, 2008)

Bob Willing said:


> This is the nature of the beast, my work around is to divide the quart into smaller bottles and make sure they are full. I bought 2 oz bottles and use them on S & P mills. You can also use bloxygen to seal off the remainder. I even tried using glass marbles to take up the amount I uased but that did not work. Putting it into smaller bottles works great. I still have 1/2 of the quart that is 12 months old.


An additional trick is to store the bottle upside down. If you leave the edge 'sloppy', the material on the rim or threads will cure giving you a near perfect seal to retain the inside material. It can make the lid difficult to remove, so I would not do this with a glass container.

Regards,
Steve


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## panhandler (Apr 28, 2011)

I saw a YouTube video where The person used a wood screw to crush the sides of The can until the liquid was at the top and all the air was out. I just did this with my can, so we'll see!!


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## Bonanza35 (Jan 20, 2011)

I have used Waterlox on a couple of items but I have been just as happy MinWax Tung oil Finish which I've used a lot. It's not free but costs a little less.


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## jgilfor (Jan 25, 2013)

Whenever I finish using Waterlox, I place the can (cap off) in my bench vise. I cinch it down until the product is even with the very top of the spout, then I screw the cap on. Since the cans are metal, the deformation is maintained, and there is no air in the closed can. I've kept Waterlox liquid and usable for more than 16 months on the shelf (between uses) that way. Works until the can is about empty. Looks kinda funny, but it works.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Collapsible photo storage containers work too....

http://www.2spi.com/catalog/photo/air-evac.shtml


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

As others have said, Waterlox is a blend of a resin, oil and thinner. I've never used Waterlox so I can't comment on an equivalent mix, but I routinely make my own wipe on varnish using BLO, oil based poly and mineral spirits. You could substitute tung oil for the BLO if you wish.

A place to start is with equal amounts of the three components and then make some test pieces. Mix your test batches in small amounts - a tablespoon for measuring works well - and be sure to label/record everything. If you want more of a film finish, add a higher percentage of poly, if you want less.... you get the idea.


BTW - there have been many discussions on wipe on varnish mixes in the Finishing forum if you want to read some more opinions on the subject.


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

Can the same thing be done in a plastic pop bottle??? Or does this stuff soften the plastic??
I have never used this product, but it sounds very user unfriendly..


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Bonanza35 said:


> I have used Waterlox on a couple of items but I have been just as happy MinWax Tung oil Finish which I've used a lot. It's not free but costs a little less.


 
Another alternative is to use MinWax Tung oil and 10% MinWax polyurethane. I apply let set and 15 min later wipe off, two coats is just about right. Steel wool in between coats or you can wipe it off using steel wool and let the fines fill in the pours than wipe off. The poly gives it a tougher surface.


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## jgilfor (Jan 25, 2013)

I wouldn't use a plastic container for two reasons: One, the plastic is not opaque, and so may allow degradation from light exposure. Two, the plastic has a shape memory that will try to suck air back in no matter how tight you attach the cap. Additionally, you may crack the plastic with repeated "smooshings."

Like I said, Waterlox comes in metal tins (like DNA or BLO). Compressing the container after each use to keep air out works very well, and doesn't seem to affect the pourability of the container. It just looks funny sitting on the shelf.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I had forgotten about making your own. I used to make my own so that I could use tung oil as the base. I would do a coat flooding the surface with a 50/50 mix of tung oil and thinner, then wiping off the excess and letting it dry. I'd follow with a flood on/wipe off coat of a 33/33/33 mix of tung oil, thinner and varnish, then a few coats of straight varnish. After a while, I realized I was making Waterlox.


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