# DC Build



## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

trying to load pic from photobucket more info to come


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

*DC Separator Build*

Well finally downloaded pics to start this build. I use my PC edge guide to create my circle cuts. I removed the edge guide attachment and installed a center 1/4" pin.

I route both sides using this method. I created a 1/8" groove to retain the sides of the separator and at this point I wetted the kirffed plywood and temporarlly instaslled in the groove until it dries.

I will glue it in position tomorrow after I finish rounding off the base openings and edges. I made sure the plywood was perpendicular to the base so that it will match the cover groove when completed.

The overall length of the plywood is 70" and a height of 5.5", the kirfs are 1" apart. I made a mark on the RAS fence and that is how I indexed each saw cut.

I wetted the plywood with a sponge before installing in the groove and applied more water after it was in place. I had one small break out about 1/2" long other that that every thing came out as expected.









































I would like to thank jg2259 for his idea. My intent is to enlighten other how this is accomplished


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

That is looking great, Bob. 

That is a slick trick you have with wetting the plywood, to make it more plyable. Are you worried at all that getting water on the MDF is going to cause it to "Bubble up," causing some problems with getting it to seal right?

Also, are you planning on covering the curfs with some sort of material at all?

Can't wait to see more!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*nice work bob*

Is that for a metal trash can or cardboard drum? How about some radius dimensions for the router jig? You could just put some tape on the surface and label them then pull them off when you are done. Thanks... bill


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

thegrgyle said:


> That is looking great, Bob.
> 
> That is a slick trick you have with wetting the plywood, to make it more plyable. Are you worried at all that getting water on the MDF is going to cause it to "Bubble up," causing some problems with getting it to seal right?
> 
> ...


When I wetted the plywood the spong helps to keep it just on the wood and not on teh MDF. Actualy getting the MDF wet will be part of the sealing process for the MDF when I use a 50/50 mix of yellow glue and water to seal all surfaces. I have alot of piece of laminate which will be use to seal the kirffs. I will contact cement it in position.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> Is that for a metal trash can or cardboard drum? How about some radius dimensions for the router jig? You could just put some tape on the surface and label them then pull them off when you are done. Thanks... bill


 
I based my entire Dia's off of the metal trash can. The trash can is 27" tall the same as the plastic Brute sold at ACE.

The can opening is 20" ID and 20 1/2" OD so the slot (on the underside) for the trash can is 20 1/4" + - 3/8" (3/4" wide slot 3/8" deep.

From here I allowed 1” smaller Dia for the start of the dust slot, I wanted a 1/2" overhang. 

The next Dia is 2 1/4" smaller starting at the overhang for the dust slot.

So let's see the 19 ½” ID at the edge of the trash can opening (on the underside slot) minus 1/2" all the way around we get 18 1/2" Dia to start the dust slot. The dust slot is 1 1/8" wide so the next Dia is 16 ¼”. Actual sizes may vary based on how accurately you set the router. 

Divide the Dia’s by 2 and you get the radii.

One more channel was made to help keep the separator side accurately in place and I routed a 1/8” deep slot starting at the 18 ½” Dia dust slot using a ¾” router bit.

When I made the slot I used a 1 1/8” Forstner bit at each end than I took a ¼” spiral bit and set the router to cut one radius at a time in 1/8” depth increments.

The channel for the sides and the slot for the trash can depths make the bottom only ¼” thick for a small Dia, but don’t worry because once the side is glued in place this strengthen the bottom.

I hope this is clear I took actual measurements and they were within + - 1/16”.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

More progress


Glue up








Install inlet








Install reducer 5" to 4" this is the reduce I bought at ACE $6.95








Inside of top cover 








Attach laminate


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Install fan side inlet








Bottom of cover 








Modify bracket








Make a small hole fixture 








I modified the edge guide from the Bousch trim router to make small holes by filling the stop so that the bracket would fit further up the router and allow a bolt an nut to fit into a 1/4" center hole. This set up will make a hole 5 1/2" in diameter where as the std router can not make a hole this small. if the bracket is not modified a nut can not be placed under the bracket


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Looking great, Bob! I can't wait to see how that top goes on... 

What kind of DC do you have that you are going to use this for?


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looks good Bob!


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Looking good. Very cool stuff.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

bob.....do you anticipate much turbulence where the 6" inlet airflow enters into the circular air stream of the tophat? i thought the idea was to try to get that transition point as smooth and "seamless" as possible.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

toolguy1000 said:


> bob.....do you anticipate much turbulence where the 6" inlet airflow enters into the circular air stream of the tophat? i thought the idea was to try to get that transition point as smooth and "seamless" as possible.


I thought so to but after looking at many different configurations made by many individuals I don't expect there to be a problem. I will see later on. I may make a formed opening from wood. I have a Delta 50-760. The inlet is actually 5" and the inlet pipe is about 1/8" away from the sides. I cut it from 5/4 oak. I could make a tapered piece on the lathe later. 

The DC has a 5" inlet which I did not remember and almost bought a 6" fitting, glad I measured first. 

I plan on using a 5" flex hose at first to connect to the DC. If all works out I may attach the top hat directly to the DC. That will be a new build in its self. Right now the hose is less expensive than the lumber.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

toolguy1000 said:


> bob.....do you anticipate much turbulence where the 6" inlet airflow enters into the circular air stream of the tophat? i thought the idea was to try to get that transition point as smooth and "seamless" as possible.


I have built a top hat just like Bob's that I have been using for years now. My design is just like his, in that the intake tube does not make a "smooth" transition to the "cyclone" area. I have not had any problems that I can tell, and I know for a fact that I don't get much dust/flour/ chips past the separator. Maybe I am just used to it, and I definitely have no way to measure the turbulence levels, but I am happy with my design, and I feel it is quite effective.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

I assembled my top hat separator and gave it a trial run. I saw no cavation and/or turbulence right after the inlet when I put some dust and wood chips at the inlet, all I saw was a cyclone of dust being sucked into the slot. I do not have a video camera. I did install straighteners in the fan side of the inlet. I used fluorescent light tubes so for a 5” opening it took 6 cut to 8” long. I am impressed with the lack of dust in the clear plastic bag under the cartridge filter, but disappointed with the drop in vacuum at my lathe collection funnel. I measured 10mph with my old separator and with the THS it dropped to 8.5 mph as a realitive measurement.



Here are the straighteners installed useing CA glue. 








Inlet and outlet 








The hose at the top is my setup for remote items (planer, thickness sander).


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Bob, that looks sharp. I really like the way yours turned out. I have been trying to figure out how I plan on doing my air straightener as well, but I have a lot of other things going on as well.

Is that 5" flex that you are running? Where did you end up getting that from?

Nice job on the separator, and I think you will really enjoy how effective it is.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

thegrgyle said:


> Bob, that looks sharp. I really like the way yours turned out. I have been trying to figure out how I plan on doing my air straightener as well, but I have a lot of other things going on as well.
> 
> Is that 5" flex that you are running? Where did you end up getting that from?
> 
> Nice job on the separator, and I think you will really enjoy how effective it is.


 
I got the 5" flex off of amazon thru their returned goods department, I also bought an Incra miter gauge the same way. Blastgate.com sell as well but more expensive. I just kept searching until I found a less expensive source. Woodstock W1035 5-Inch by 10-Foot Wire Hose The flourscent light tube I bought at ACE for $5.95 for a 8' length, it was less expensive than two 4' lengths at $3.95 each.


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## retired2 (Mar 14, 2013)

Bob Willing said:


> I assembled my top hat separator and gave it a trial run. I saw no cavation and/or turbulence right after the inlet when I put some dust and wood chips at the inlet, all I saw was a cyclone of dust being sucked into the slot. I do not have a video camera. I did install straighteners in the fan side of the inlet. I used fluorescent light tubes so for a 5” opening it took 6 cut to 8” long. I am impressed with the lack of dust in the clear plastic bag under the cartridge filter, but disappointed with the drop in vacuum at my lathe collection funnel. I measured 10mph with my old separator and with the THS it dropped to 8.5 mph as a realitive measurement.


Bob, did you ever take any mph readings at your lathe with no separator? I'd be curious to see how it compares to my experience of a 38% loss with the top hat installed versus no separator.

Regards


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

retired2 said:


> Bob, did you ever take any mph readings at your lathe with no separator? I'd be curious to see how it compares to my experience of a 38% loss with the top hat installed versus no separator.
> 
> Regards


Right now I am having a problem with my leg and it is keeping me out of my shop, but as soon as I get better I will try to experiment.

My unscientific method to determine performance is to drop a hand full of lathe shavings in front of the funnel at the lathe. If any shavings collect in funnel at the very front my filter needed cleaning. Right now everything indicates OK.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Bob Willing said:


> Right now I am having a problem with my leg and it is keeping me out of my shop, but as soon as I get better I will try to experiment.
> 
> My unscientific method to determine performance is to drop a hand full of lathe shavings in front of the funnel at the lathe. If any shavings collect in funnel at the very front my filter needed cleaning. Right now everything indicates OK.


This is the funnel at my lathe.








If I take a hand full of chips and place my hand at the top of the funnel and gradually release them in to the flow, if the filter needs cleaning chips will collect on the bottom lip and not be sucked into the opening.


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