# how to make cabinet doors



## nubie (Jan 9, 2008)

This will be my first attempt at making doors for a curio display cabinet I plan to build. I want to use glass for the panel inserts. I plan to glue the rails/stiles together and not use brads. I searched this site for rail/stiles and did not find a thread that illustrates how to make the doors. 

Will the following plan work? I was told I should get a rail/stile router bit and it would allow me to mate up the top and side rails, and the bit would also cut a grove for the glass panel insert. It that it, or are there some things I am missing? Will the doors be sturdy with 7/8" rails/stiles assembly? Somewhere I got the idea that the glass might rattle if the fit was not perfect-how do I prevent that?

Any help from someone who has a learned process to do this would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks,
Nubie


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Most of the style/rail bit sets leave a 1/4" curf for a wood panel. The panel is inserted into the door frame pryer to glue-up. A production door usually has a couple rubber spacer balls inserted into the curf of each side to allow for expansion of the panel...and offset any play or rattle in the panel. It is not a good idea to trap a glass panel. There is an added proseedure to allow for glass...cut out the inner lip of the frame with a router...then add a molding or clip for the glass. A 7/8" wide style and rail is not wide enough for a door frame...depending on design ofcorse. Rick


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## johnp (Nov 24, 2008)

the only thing i see with your plan.. most of us would cut the lip off of the back of both rails and styles.. so post glue up, we drop the gass in and add wood to hold it there.. that gives us the option to replace the glass when it gets broke..

same build as any panel door, just give yourself a way to get the panel out..


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

The only thing I have to add is after prepping the door for the glass, I have sized the glass so there is 1/8" margin all the way around, set the glass in place with the door lying face down on a flat surface.(after the door is finished). Center the glass in the opening and lay a bead of clear 100% GE silicone around the perimeter. Let dry overnight and it's ready to mount. Many of the production cabinet companies use this same method. Actually, that's where I got the idea from. Works well, glass doesn't rattle. The silicone stays rubbery and allows for wood movement. 
Mike Hawkins


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

Firehawkmph is right. I usually build the doors, finish them then take them to a glazer that installs the glass with silicone adhesive.


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## nubie (Jan 9, 2008)

Thanks for all the help! I will follow your suggestions. BTW, I wasn't clear about the 7/8" . Thats the thickness of the finished wood I'll be working with,not the width of the stile/rails.
Nubie


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Nubie,
That's what I thought you meant about the 7/8". If that were the width it would look pretty funny and by the time you routed it, there wouldn't be too much left. Widthwise, you should be somewhere in the 1 3/4-2" range. 
Mike Hawkins


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