# Sawstop or Powermatic PM200b?



## Doc Fluty (Apr 10, 2017)

I know both saws are considered top notch quality and I will be happy either way, but im looking at a very expensive purchase and I want to make sure im happy for the next 10+ years or so with it. So I'm wondering what you guys think.

The pros of the sawstop are: Safety feature, 36 inch rip, top notch build quality and ease of assembly. A big downside is the rolling base can add $400 to the price and it gets higher quick if you want to add a top dust collector for another $250.

The pros of the Powermatic are: 5 year warranty, powermatic customer support, bigger table, digital bevel indicator, built in mobile base, one wrench blade change, bigger dust collector (?) and no brake change needed to run a dado. The cons seem to be a 30 inch rip size and with the bigger 29" table i cant use a woodpecker, or other, router table extension.

Also, at the dealer where i was at the sawstop fence moved much easier than the PM.. but the dealer said that was just a set up issue.

My head says PM..but my head also says Sawstop for when my kids start woodworking with me. I'd feel terrible if one of them had an accident that I could have prevented.

So, I don't know.. what do you guys think?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Doc Fluty said:


> I know both saws are considered top notch quality and I will be happy either way, but im looking at a very expensive purchase and I want to make sure im happy for the next 10+ years or so with it. So I'm wondering what you guys think.
> 
> The pros of the sawstop are: Safety feature, 36 inch rip, top notch build quality and ease of assembly. A big downside is the rolling base can add $400 to the price and it gets higher quick if you want to add a top dust collector for another $250.
> 
> ...


Some time back we had a member that was setting up a shop class in a school and was asking about what kind of table saw he should be looking for. Most of us right off recommended the Sawstop. A lot depends on how old your children are when you teach them to use a saw and how sensible they are. With most people they are very careful working around saws for about a year and then start getting careless when they start thinking they know what they are doing. I was fortunate enough to have someone spend a lot of time teaching me how to work around a saw safely and to never let your guard down. In the end it's not a matter if an incident is going to happen on a saw it's when. A person should always be prepared for a kickback and not have their hands where they will go into the blade when it happens. In my day nobody had any kind of guards on the saws so I was taught in the event of a kickback to reach for the sky. It's much better to have a board hit you than get your hands in the blade.


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## Doc Fluty (Apr 10, 2017)

My kids are 11 and 9 right now and wont be messing with the table saw until they are at least 14 and maybe higher depending on thier maturity. But like i said, id like to keep this saw for well over 10 years and that would encopass thier teenage years. 


It seems to me I like the PMs warranty, features, ect more but the sawstops safety feature alone is holding up pulling the trigger.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Doc Fluty said:


> My kids are 11 and 9 right now and wont be messing with the table saw until they are at least 14 and maybe higher depending on thier maturity. But like i said, id like to keep this saw for well over 10 years and that would encopass thier teenage years.
> 
> 
> It seems to me I like the PMs warranty, features, ect more but the sawstops safety feature alone is holding up pulling the trigger.


Unless one or both of them is accident prone I think if you train them well and keep the guard on the saw they would be alright. If the saw has a lock key on the switch I would remove it when you are not there to supervise.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Some of us were raised on tablesaw without the safety brake*



Doc Fluty said:


> My kids are 11 and 9 right now and wont be messing with the table saw until they are at least 14 and maybe higher depending on thier maturity. But like i said, id like to keep this saw for well over 10 years and that would encopass thier teenage years.
> 
> 
> It seems to me I like the PMs warranty, features, ect more but the sawstops safety feature alone is holding up pulling the trigger.



I got my first table saw when I was 18, about 58 years ago. It came with a blade guard attached to a splitter plate. At some point in time I removed that system and put it in storage. I was always very cautious, but I had no training other than wood shop in high school.
I suffered a few kickbacks, but never understood why they happen until some 15 to 20 years ago. At that point, I reinstalled the splitter, drilled out the plastic blade cover mechanism leaving a bare bones splitter plate to act as a "keeper" holding the workpiece in contact with the fence until it was well past the rear of the blade. When the workpiece moves away from the fence at the rear of the blasde, it will climb up and over it and return at blinding speed, a kickback.



Neither of the saws in question will "totally" prevent a kickback, but the use of the splitter will all but eliminate them. However, there are times when it is "in the way" and needs to be removed. AS far as your decision goes, I've seen the Saw Stop in person and it's a great, well designed machine without even mentioning the safety brake feature. I own a 5 HP 12" Powermatic that will cut 4" thick stock all day long, a scary beast even for me. A kickback on that saw would be a real potential or actual injury. I see no need for 5 HP on a home shop table saw, and my "go to" table saws have 3 HP or less. All my tablesaws have the splitter plate installed unless there is a special stopped cut where it needs to be removed.


The use of push sticks on narrow pieces 4" or less, is always advised. There's a device called a Gripper that makes ripping narrow stock much safer. The red area in the throat plate is the "danger zone" and hands and fingers should never enter it. In spite of all the precautions, safety devices like riving knives and splitters, and operational training, the use of the table saw by children must be closely supervised AND unless the supervisor fully understands the
physics involved there is still a potential risk.



So, my advice is to get the Saw Stop because you can't account for all situations especially when working with children who may not fully understand all the physics and forces involved when a spinning blade enters and cuts a piece of wood. Even to this day my use of the table saw demands "total focus" at all times. Work support of long and large pieces is as important as any safety device. Reaching over and around a spinning blade to retrieve a cut off or workpiece is a accident waiting to happen. Never, never reach over the blade until it comes to a complete stop. There is a natural tendency for anyone who let's the piece slip out of their grasp to try to catch it, which would put their fingers right into the blade. If you do drop it on a spinning blade it will kickback, so it's best to push it off to the side or the rear using a push block, where it can be safely retrieved.


Those are the reasons for my advice based on years of use with no blade contacting injuries. A table saw can be safely operated without the flesh sensing feature, but when children are involved, take no chances. :vs_cool:


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

I bought my 3hp 36inch SawStop because I have a lot of family nearby. One daughter uses my tools. Grandkids like to “build” things. A lot of teaching opportunity! I’ve made my Grouch Cave as child friendly as I can conceive. Thus the SawStop purchase. 

Having said that, I am pleased with the saw in all respects, not just the safety features. It is a very well made saw, with excellent fit & finish. 
Assembly & adjustments were easy, with excellent instructions & well-laid-out parts. I bought the integrated mobile base & overarm dust collector. At that time each was $200. Well worth it, although I seldom move the saw. 

Changing from the overarm to the splitter is a simple matter of lifting off the throat plate, rotating a lever, lifting out the overarm, slipping in the splitter, rotating the lever & replacing the throat plate. Maybe a 15 second job. No excuse for not having a splitter in place. 

Swapping out the brake to & from the dado brake will take maybe 30 seconds, including getting it out of the drawer, so in my opinion it’s inconsequential relative to the time required to set up the dado. 

Incidentally, should your brake trip due to contact with human skin, send it to SawStop for confirmation & they will send you a new one at no cost. And, no it wasn’t a grandchild that tripped it. That’s all I’m gonna say about that. 

I know nothing about the PM saw, so can’t comment on it. 

I have a pair of Grr-rippers, & highly recommend them. They’re useful for much more than thin rips. They can’t be used with the overarm collector, though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## samandothers (Jan 20, 2012)

There are two mobile bases for the SawStop. The professional cabinet saw can use the integrated base and the 'industrial' base. The integrated base for the professional saw is maybe 250 now, there was a price increase 2/1. The industrial base works with the professional saw also it is more expensive, lifts more and I believe all 4 wheels pivot.
The professional saw has a 4" dust port. There are table top dust collection that is extra.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

When my son was very small and began to use the stairs (my shop is in the basement) I installed a lock on the shop door, and although it was inconvenient at times...I kept the shop locked whenever I left the shop. I also had the only keys. You never know when safety will become an issue. Safety in my shop is an absolute necessity!


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

Please understand that I have ABSOLUTELY no love for SawStop or Stephen Gass, the inventor.

I had and used a RAS for over 30 years and have had table saws for another 20 or so years. I have used Grizzly, Powermatic, Jet and Delta table saws. I have been fortunate enough to have installed a Jet Contractor model, a Delta Unisaw, both at home. I helped to install several SawStop Industrial (3 phase 5 HP) table saws at school. 

The Powermatic saw, at school was about 20 years old and for some reason students seemed to avoid it. It seemed a bit clunky but there was nothing wrong with it. The school had 5 or 6 UniSaw also. These have all been replaced by SawStop. (The lawyers are in control!) 

The school has had the woodworking program for 30 or more years and never had an amputation. Everyone, every semester, has to re-certify on table saw safety. The student, under the watchful eye of an instructor makes a cut. I have seen a student dropped (i.e. Thrown out) of class for safety reasons. I heard that she attempted to sue for discrimination but the judge threw the case out. 

IMHO
SawStop / Delta UniSaw / Powermatic are all top notch quality. There is one thing bad about these table saws. You must decide which of your grandchildren will get the saw and put it in your will. You don't want the grandchildren fighting over who gets the saw. Yes, the saw will be viable and usable 50 years from today and probably well into the 22nd century. 

With all of that said and remembering my bias, if I were setting up a shop today the table saw would be a SawStop. The safety issues alone make it the table saw of choice. I am fortunate, I guess, that neither of my sons are interested in woodworking. It is more of a, "Hey Dad, would you cut this for me?" But still, I would hate to see anyone have an amputation on my table saw, so a new one would be a SawStop.

I have seen a neighbor cut herself on my Delta. Nothing serious but now I have rust spots from the blood on my table saw. I should have known better as she had used the saw before and I made her do the certification even though she had taken a woodworking class at the local high school. But I've come to understand the true definition of 'Air Head'. And damn it, I have rust stains on my table saw. 

With my bias I can't believe that I'm recommending a SawStop but logic prevails.


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## Echo415 (Apr 3, 2018)

I vote grizzly...

Best bang for your buck and you won't notice the difference unless you are setting up for high level production. I'll always keep my opinion that sawstop is a not a replacement for respect and training on a tablesaw. You(or your children) are far more likely to get injured by kickback than running your hand over the blade and sawstop doesn't solve that problem. We've gone for quite a long time without a fancy blade retraction mechanism and while some people are sporting some gnarly scars or 9 fingers, we somehow managed to survive. Power tools are inherently dangerous...teach the proper safety techniques and don't be complacent.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Just curious....If SawStop parts no longer were available, could it be made to work as a traditional table saw? Or would that be impossible or very difficult to do? Just wondering. I've never really looked at one.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*That question has been raised before ...*



gmercer_48083 said:


> Just curious....If SawStop parts no longer were available, could it be made to work as a traditional table saw? Or would that be impossible or very difficult to do? Just wondering. I've never really looked at one.



If I recall, the short answer was NO, because of all the electronics involved. Given enough time, money and machining I'm sure it could be made to work like an ordinary table saw, but would you do it? It would be a real shame if something happened at the Saw Stop factory and parts were no longer made. There must be OR should be, some sort of mandated number of spare parts for a proprietary system that no one else can manufacture ... you'd think?


Good project for Mythbusters to tackle! :wink:


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## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

Doc, I wish I had your problem because they are such nice saws. If you bought the PM and someone got hurt you would kick your self for not buying the ST. It's your choice.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

the saw stops are very well made, as is the pm. but for safety alone, my vote is sawstop.


the safety feature is easily bypassed with a key, so yes I think it could be disabled should parts no longer be available. but I would bet that a 3rd party would begin producing the cartridges if ss went out of business.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

Echo415 said:


> I vote grizzly...
> 
> Best bang for your buck and you won't notice the difference unless you are setting up for high level production. I'll always keep my opinion that sawstop is a not a replacement for respect and training on a tablesaw. You(or your children) are far more likely to get injured by kickback than running your hand over the blade and sawstop doesn't solve that problem. We've gone for quite a long time without a fancy blade retraction mechanism and while some people are sporting some gnarly scars or 9 fingers, we somehow managed to survive. Power tools are inherently dangerous...teach the proper safety techniques and don't be complacent.


You know, I would typically be aligned with this recommendation.

I was at the Grizzly store a month or so ago, coupon and money in my pocket. I have a Unisaw project that has been on the back burner, and thought I could potentially buy my way out of that project by getting a new Grizzly saw. Would have saved me a lot of time, effort, and money.

I looked the saws over very well, they seem to be a good saw, but something about them just seemed cheap to me. Not sure if it is because I have been so "intimate" with the way a Unisaw is built, but I just couldn't get myself to buy a ready to go Grizzly over the Unisaw I already have that is in pieces.

Everyone that has a Grizzly seems to be pleased with it, and I can't give you a single reason why I thought they felt cheap, but to me it did.

They always seem to have a few in the scratch and dent room at the Springfield store when I am in there too. Only for cosmetic reasons typically.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

TimPa said:


> the saw stops are very well made, as is the pm. but for safety alone, my vote is sawstop.
> 
> 
> the safety feature is easily bypassed with a key, so yes I think it could be disabled should parts no longer be available. but I would bet that a 3rd party would begin producing the cartridges if ss went out of business.


I doubt whether Sawstop as a company exists has any bearing on the patent used for the component, 3rd parties will only make cartridges when the patent expires or they have licensed the patent. Companies are set up to protect the individual and as far as I know the patent is to an individual.

Just been told by a little bird that TTS now owns the patents.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

FrankC said:


> I doubt whether Sawstop as a company exists has any bearing on the patent used for the component, 3rd parties will only make cartridges when the patent expires or they have licensed the patent. Companies are set up to protect the individual and as far as I know the patent is to an individual.
> 
> Just been told by a little bird that TTS now owns the patents.


Just curious: 
Does your little bird know anything about what might happen when the SawStop patents are supposed to expire in August 2021? Can SawStop prevent others from building safety saws and compatible blade brakes after that date?

- - - - -

I would choose the SawStop over Powermatic, especially if I had children who might use the table saw someday. SawStop makes good saws as saws. The extra cost for the safety feature is insurance against the cost of treatment and a lifetime of regret.

Others argue that proper training and good safety are essential, and must be practiced always. Who can argue with that? 

They add that woodworkers have been using table saws for over a century, and the people who followed proper safety practices lived a lifetime of woodworking without injury. The problem with that argument is that it is impossible to determine whether an uninjured woodworker is skilled at safety practices or just lucky. If they had worked one day longer, could that have been the day when their luck ran out? (... or could they have kept going indefinitely without injury?) I say that people are human, and nobody is perfect. Are you willing to bet that your table saw users will never ever make an injurious mistake? Sadly, I have seen too many scars and missing body parts on too many good, skilled woodworkers. 

I agree with those who warn about excessive power in a table saw. SawStop is comparable to other table saws regarding the danger of kickbacks. Get what you need, but don't buy the most powerful saw available just because you can afford it.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Tool Agnostic said:


> Just curious:
> Does your little bird know anything about what might happen when the SawStop patents are supposed to expire in August 2021? Can SawStop prevent others from building safety saws and compatible blade brakes after that date?
> 
> - - - - -


This taken from Wikipedia for what it is worth:

The SawStop patents begin to expire in August 2021, with filed extensions this could extend until April 2024 for the early patents. Given that there are about 100 patents, patent protection for this product line may continue for some years.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SawStop


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Tool Agnostic said:


> Just curious:
> 
> 
> They add that woodworkers have been using table saws for over a century, and the people who followed proper safety practices lived a lifetime of woodworking without injury. The problem with that argument is that it is impossible to determine whether an uninjured woodworker is skilled at safety practices or just lucky. If they had worked one day longer, could that have been the day when their luck ran out? (... or could they have kept going indefinitely without injury?) I say that people are human, and nobody is perfect. Are you willing to bet that your table saw users will never ever make an injurious mistake? Sadly, I have seen too many scars and missing body parts on too many good, skilled woodworkers.


If the odds are 100 to 1 something is going to happen, they don't decrease to 99 to 1 the next time, they stay at 100 to 1 every time. 

Experience can help you avoid injuries but as they say "$hit happens"


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## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

I have a SawStop. It would be fairly easy to remove the electronics if they ever became obsolete. 
I replaced a Unisaw with the SawStop. I have employees! but the SS is a better design than the uni. 
I think most or all Grizzly & PM saws are made in China. SawStops are made in Taiwan.
If you are a gambler and money is the most important thing you can't beat the Chinese.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

FrankC said:


> If the odds are 100 to 1 something is going to happen, they don't decrease to 99 to 1 the next time, they stay at 100 to 1 every time.
> 
> Experience can help you avoid injuries but as they say "$hit happens"


I get that, very well. Do you get my points, which are:

* You can't prove _why_ an uninjured woodworker is uninjured. It could be following best practices very well or it could be luck.

* Rephrasing your concluding sentence: 
The odds that a skilled, well-trained, diligent woodworker will be injured are far lower than the odds that an unskilled, untrained, inattentive "woodworker" will be injured, all other things assumed equal. 

* For the lucky person who retires without being injured, one _possible_ scenario is that if he had worked one day longer, that extra day _might_ have been the day when his/her luck ran out. The odds that he/she would be injured that day didn't change. For that hypothetical scenario, it just happened to be the day that "$hit happened." As I pointed out above, it is more likely to happen to the unskilled person than a skilled woodworker, but it could happen to either one of them.

My Main Point:
* Even though the odds are better for a skilled woodworker, I assert that they are not zero. Furthermore, I assert that the odds are high enough, even for a skilled woodworker, and the price of injury so dear, that it is worth the extra cost of "insurance" to buy a SawStop table saw.

Not everyone agrees, and I respect their opinions.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

FrankC said:


> This taken from Wikipedia for what it is worth:
> 
> The SawStop patents begin to expire in August 2021, with filed extensions this could extend until April 2024 for the early patents. Given that there are about 100 patents, patent protection for this product line may continue for some years.
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SawStop


Thank you for sharing this. Obviously the Wikipedia article has been updated with new information since I looked at it. The last time I looked, all it said was that the patents will expire in August 2021, with no further information provided.

Let us hope that in April 2024, enough of the SawStop patents will expire to allow others to make similar products, like the Bosch REAXX.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Things can happen for very unexpected reasons and circumstances.

A friend of our family was working in the mountains of British Columbia, his Caterpillar started to slip off a cliff, he jumped, the Cat fell hundreds of feet and he walked away unharmed.

His foreman told him to take a couple days off so he went to Jasper, he was in a crowd watching a bear up a pole when he stepped off the curb and broke his ankle.


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## evilboweivel (Nov 3, 2018)

*evilboweivel*

I bought a Sawstop 36" fence 5hp 1 phase with all options available at the time in 2014. have been very happy with it
Primary reason for buying it is I know that sooner or later(hasn't happened yet) I will be tired, working too long, shoulda quit 1 hour ago, etc and it will get me.
Back in 1976 was working on a job installing lights along a driveway for local contractor, he showed up minus part of his thumb. No kickback just thumb
in wrong spot the night before when he was working in his shop on a small project past when he knew he should have quit. He was born over in Switzerland or Germany, trained over there, made master status before immigrating to US where he was a very successful high end custom builder.
Then in late 1980's stopped by a local Tool Shop to talk about a new jointer and he offered to make me a fantastic deal on a demo Delta 8". Just couldn't close the deal when he told me some he knew well and had a lot of experience used it less than a week before and got blood on it
ANYONE no matter how trained can have a lapse in judgement due to distractions, tired etc and it gets worse the older we get.
I have had a table saw since 1978, RAS in 1984, Delta Contractor Saw 1988. Best saw I liked using was a Powermatic 10" 5hp, 3 phase, 440 vac
worse kickback was in Junior High on a Delta


I recommend Saw Stop 5hp, Forrest 26 tooth rip blade, might change my mind if I ever crosscut on it but I doubt it.


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## samandothers (Jan 20, 2012)

*What's in the box?*

Doc if you are still contemplating, thought this might help show what's in the box.

I had wanted to replace my older Jet table saw and decided to go for the safety feature and thus SawStop. I ordered a 3hp professional saw via Woodcraft in my area in January before price went up and picked it up or rather my son did last week. :thumbsup: 
The box with the cabinet, table extensions, motor and a few other items was about 390 lbs not counting the pallet. The packing info was readily available and all appeared there. The hardware package is color coded to facilitate assembly. 
I have not put it together yet, been out of town and am limited to lifting 8lbs at this time. started to unpack what I could and read some stuff. My get wifey or neighbor to help with the assembly heavy (>8lbs) lifting.


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

Let me try to put this argument to bed another way.

Pick a saw, any brand, any model. How much does it cost?
Pick a SawStop, any model. How much does it cost?

Subtract the difference in price between the two. Now the real question is, "How many insurance ER co-pay would be covered by the difference in price?"

If you answered, "I'm experienced and I'm not . . . . " Then the advice here is, 'Do not buy any table saw.'

Said by somebody that absolutely detests the inventor and company.


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## Doc Fluty (Apr 10, 2017)

Thanks guys. I've been reading all of these and have been paying attention.

I think I am going with the SS for the reason most of you have listed. Accidents happen. If one of my kids gets injured when they turn 16 and have friends over and want to build a bike/stakeboard ramp I would never forgive myself that I chose a digital bevel gauge, integrated base and longer warranty over the safety feature. I really wish more than one company had the safety feature. 

Thanks everyone.


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

Good luck with your new saw. Just my .02 but if it was a rare event for someone else to use my table saw then I would buy the saw I really wanted. If thats a PM then I would buy the PM saw. If teaching children or anyone else to use a table saw was part of my future plans for a new saw then of course I would buy the SS. 
Im in the camp which believes the best safety for a table saw is to practice safe work procedures. Theres no substitute for safe work practices but additional safety features are nice to have too.


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## Echo415 (Apr 3, 2018)

Doc Fluty said:


> Thanks guys. I've been reading all of these and have been paying attention.
> 
> I think I am going with the SS for the reason most of you have listed. Accidents happen. If one of my kids gets injured when they turn 16 and have friends over and want to build a bike/stakeboard ramp I would never forgive myself that I chose a digital bevel gauge, integrated base and longer warranty over the safety feature. I really wish more than one company had the safety feature.
> 
> Thanks everyone.


Another goes to the dark side...

I'll use the bartering tactic next time I buy another table saw..."Well it's not a sawstop so you're selling a deathtrap and you should give it to me for half price because nobody else will buy it." How did we manage to survive this long without sawstop?


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## Echo415 (Apr 3, 2018)

Wrong button...technology hates me


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## samandothers (Jan 20, 2012)

*Thanks for the grin*



Echo415 said:


> Another goes to the dark side...
> 
> I'll use the bartering tactic next time I buy another table saw..."Well it's not a sawstop so you're selling a deathtrap and you should give it to me for half price because nobody else will buy it." How did we manage to survive this long without sawstop?


Echo,
I must admit I had to cackle at this, that was good. Maybe Doc can take this thread and use it to get some off the PM.

Thanks for the smile this morning!


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## [email protected] (Feb 22, 2019)

If dust collection is equal with both saws, I would do the SawStop. But then again, using any power tool could go crazy even when one is fully attentive, and do severe damage. I have a Grizzly cabinet saw and regret not getting the Powermatic, regardless of the disparaging price difference. Grizzly is now selling table saws with the SawStop mechanism. My guess is, Powermatic will start selling saws with the safety mechanism as well. I met a contractor who was rehabbing after his hip replacement. His saw kicked back a piece of wood into his hip joint, and broke the joint. What is: safety worth to you, having a good rated piece of equipment, and how steady/safe are your working skills. Good luck with your search and purchase!


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Larry42 said:


> I think most or all Grizzly & PM saws are made in China. SawStops are made in Taiwan.


Larry42:

I am not knowledgeable about "all Grizzly..saws", but according to the manufacturers tag, my Grizzly *G1023RLWX *is made in Taiwan, if that makes a difference to anyone.

Anyways, back to the topic at hand. The only solid advantage that the Saw Stop models have over other table saws is the ability to NOT cut flesh. Is it worth the extra cost? That is up to you to decide. 

When I purchased my current table saw, there were a lot of woodworkers that tried to convince me to purchase a SawStop. Some of them tried to guilt me into the purchase with threats of "when you lose a finger, you will regret not buying a SawStop". I visited a few of those woodworker's shops during a Guild Woodshop Open House and noticed how every one of those SawStop owners had removed the most important safety feature of the saw, the anti-kick back paws!!! When I asked why, I got all kinds of excuses from "the paws mark my wood" to "I lost them". Even the anti-kick back paws were removed from both SawStops at the 3000sqft Oregon Woodworkers Guild woodshop!!! In the two years that I visited the Guild shop, I never saw the anti-kick back paws on the SawStops. The paws were always up on a shelf collecting dust. 

I have used power tools since the 60's with hands on training from my father and grandfather. I have owned a few table saws and now have a very well equipped power woodworking shop that allows me to go from tree trunks to finished furniture. It is a retirement hobby, not a for profit business. Being a trained and experienced "power tool" guy, it was hard for me to think in terms of non-power tools.

In 2014, I attended a lecture by Christopher Schwarz on the _The Anarchist's Tool Chest _(https://lostartpress.com/products/the-anarchists-tool-chest) at the local woodworking guild. I came away from the lecture so inspired that I attended a couple of classes, that focused on using hand tools for woodworking. I followed the classes up with a couple of books like _The Unplugged Woodshop: Hand-Crafted Projects for the Home & Workshop _by Tom Fidgen (https://www.amazon.com/Unplugged-Woodshop-Hand-Crafted-Projects-Workshop/dp/1600857639) and _Working Wood 1 & 2: the Artisan Course with Paul Sellers _by Paul Sellers (https://www.amazon.com/Working-Wood-Artisan-Course-Sellers/dp/0956967302/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3QEFB8R7ZIBK8&keywords=unplugged+woodshop&qid=1551402875&s=books&sprefix=Unplugged+wood%2Cstripbooks%2C183&sr=1-4). I have since become a hand tool enthusiast. 

These days, I think more in terms of how can I make this cut with a hand tool than my table saw. Can I fine tune this joint with a plane rather than table saw or router? Instead of trying to think about how to make a complex cut on the table saw, I pull out the handsaw and make the cut. I can easily make a cut on the table saw to 1/64" precision, but with a hand plane, I can improve the cut to a perfect fit. 

Don't get me wrong, I still use my power tools, but I look for every opportunity I can, to use my hand planes, shoulder planes, hand saws and chisels.

If you have every created raised panels on the table saw or with a router bit, then you know you have to sand afterwards to get a smooth beautiful finish. Next time, cut the raised panels with a sharp hand plane. No sanding necessary for a beautiful finish. That is one of the many benefits to using hand tools. 

My point is that you might want to start your children in the art of woodworking with hand tools. After they have become proficient in hand tools, then work power tools into their curriculum. I sure wish that I had started with hand tools first. I could have saved myself years of frustration from trying to force a power tool to do a hand tools job.

Just my 2¢

Eric


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

If you go to Grizzly and search "SawStop" note no space.

The link is
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Sa...ble-Saw-With-52-T-Glide-Fence-Assembly/T30409
for a cabinet saw.


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