# How to install blade on circular saw Skilsaw 5680-02?



## unknowneinstein

The saw is brand new so there is no blade in it yet. Also this saw is not equipped with any type of blade locking function. Everytime I try to turn the blade stud with the wrench the whole shaft rotates. I can't get it to loosen.


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## MrUnix

From the Manual:

1. Turn BLADE STUD with wrench provided
counter-clockwise and remove BLADE STUD
and OUTER WASHER (Fig. 2). If the shaft
moves while attempting to loosen the blade
stud, strike the wrench counter-clockwise to jar
BLADE STUD loose.


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## woodnthings

*there is either a lock button or 2 wrenches*

Didn't you get a manual? It should explain how to....
The lock buttons are sometimes inconspicuous. :thumbdown:

The second wrench is used to hold the shaft and will fit on a flat....BUT it's highly unlikely a circ saw would need 2 wrenches since out in the field wrenches do get lost and that would stop the work on the job. That's why they went to lock button.
A wedge of wood, like a shim or wood shingle stuck in between the blade and saw inner housing will stop the blade from turning.


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## unknowneinstein

MrUnix said:


> From the Manual:
> 
> strike the wrench counter-clockwise to jar
> BLADE STUD loose.


What does this mean? Does strike have some weird context here or am I literally just going to hit the stud with the wrench. That doesn't make sense to me.

Yes I have the manual and I read it but as you can see from the paragraph above it doesn't really tell me what to do.


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## MrUnix

LOL - It means to put the wrench on and then give it a good whack counter-clockwise.. use the palm of your hand, a rubber mallet, piece of 2x4, whatever you have handy to bang it with.

Cheers,
Brad


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## woodnthings

*circ saws have a threaded stud with a nut*

By "strike" it means a sharp, sudden blow with a hard object like a wrench, pipe, hard wood stick etc. It's not the best method to remove a blade, as a lock button is much easier. The manual may say which way to turn the stud...CCW or CW...I donno?


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## unknowneinstein

I know it seemed stupid but this is my first time doing this so pardon my ignorance. I don't know all the tricks of the trade. Anyone I got it to work after putting the wrench on and whacking it with a hammer. Thanks.


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## woodnthings

*OK Brad you take over here!*



MrUnix said:


> LOL - It means to put the wrench on and then give it a good whack counter-clockwise.. use the palm of your hand, a rubber mallet, piece of 2x4, whatever you have handy to bang it with.
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad



I'm about 10 seconds behind you on each post.... :laughing:


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## Crusader

I have to say this is the first time I've seen a saw like this that doesn't have a blade lock.
How is that for lame.


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## jschaben

If you have a cordless impact, it will likely jar it right off. If it is new and it were me, I'd return it and buy one that has the spindle lock feature. I thought they all had them these days. Last one I had like that was a Montgomery Wards and I tossed it about the second time I needed to change blades.... musta been back in the early 80's.
For future blade changes, you will need to jam the blade in a piece of wood, like a 2x4 to lock it well enough to remove. Same to tighten with the new blade. :smile:


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## Annagnik

I spent 20 mins trying figure the crazy thing out. An internet search for instructions lead me here. I too had the user manual but couldn't figure out what it meant to "strike the wrench..." After reading the explanations, I was able to remove the nut and install the blade. Thank you guys! 

Sincerely,
Gal Installing My Own Flooring


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## Saxe Point

jschaben said:


> If you have a cordless impact, it will likely jar it right off. If it is new and it were me, I'd return it and buy one that has the spindle lock feature. I thought they all had them these days. Last one I had like that was a Montgomery Wards and I tossed it about the second time I needed to change blades.... musta been back in the early 80's. For future blade changes, you will need to jam the blade in a piece of wood, like a 2x4 to lock it well enough to remove. Same to tighten with the new blade. :smile:


I've had this saw for years and jamming a piece of wood in the blade when changing it has not been a hardship, let alone one worth ditching a decent saw for. I suppose it would depend how often one changes blades. I don't change them that frequently.


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## cabinetman

My hand held circular saws except one have no shaft lock. It's not a big deal changing blades.








 







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## woodnthings

*there's no blade in the saw, it's new*



unknowneinstein said:


> The saw is brand new so there is no blade in it yet. Also this saw is not equipped with any type of blade locking function. Everytime I try to turn the blade stud with the wrench the whole shaft rotates. I can't get it to loosen.


Without a blade in the saw it's much more difficult to remove the stud, there is no blade to grasp to resist the rotation. The arbor is free to turn and only a quick rap on the wrench will free it up. Granted it is a "stupid" design, but that's how they sell it more cheaply. If thereis no flat on the arbor for a spanner, then the above method is your only choice. :thumbdown:


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## cabinetman

MrUnix said:


> From the Manual:
> 
> 1. Turn BLADE STUD with wrench provided
> counter-clockwise and remove BLADE STUD
> and OUTER WASHER (Fig. 2). If the shaft
> moves while attempting to loosen the blade
> stud, strike the wrench counter-clockwise to jar
> BLADE STUD loose.


+1.:yes: Without a blade, this is the easiest way to remove the bolt. An impact to the bolt, either by hand or an impact drill/driver should be enough of an initial force to "jar" the bolt loose. With the washer under the head, there is likely not enough of a flat (if equipped) to use a spanner wrench. 

Make sure you are turning it out (counterclockwise) to loosen. Otherwise, you'll be there forever trying to take out the bolt by tightening it.








 







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## jesstowns

*if it's still doesn't work, strike wrench AT AN ANGLE*

I had the same problem with this and striking the wrench did nothing to fix the problem--until I struck at an angle, up in my case as I remember, while also heading counterclockwise. It was kind of like forcing the blade shaft to stay in place while the blade stud got free. 

I hope the rest of the saw is better designed than this.


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## DZiner

jesstowns said:


> I had the same problem with this and striking the wrench did nothing to fix the problem--until I struck at an angle, up in my case as I remember, while also heading counterclockwise. It was kind of like forcing the blade shaft to stay in place while the blade stud got free.
> 
> I hope the rest of the saw is better designed than this.



I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to express that I had the same issue in trying to understand what the manual was relaying when it stated, "If the shaft moves while attempting to loosen the blade stud, strike the wrench counter-clockwise to jar BLADE STUD lose." Seriously?! What does that mean???! :furious:

Anyway, I Google searched the heck out of this instruction...and feel very lucky to have found this post. Jesstowns, your tip about striking the wrench lever "at an angle" was the key! :thumbsup: And it didn't take much force of a hit...just a tap at that angle, is what worked for me! Yippee!!! :yes:

Now, I can finally get to my project! Thanks!!!


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## GeorgeC

It is all about inertia.

George


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## cabinetman

Being a new saw, and its fundamental operational methods are new, you'll get used to what it takes to do simple changeovers. Just make sure you have the blade mounted in the correct way. There's usually a direcrtional arrow on the guard showing which way is the cut direction.


















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