# trimming a desk top



## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

I'm making myself a new desk; the bottom is complete and now I need to start on the top and I have a couple of questions. The top will be 70 x 35 and I plan to make it out of white oak veneered plywood, with solid oak trim around the edges to hide the laminations. My questions are:

1. What's the best way for a relative novice to apply about 1" of oak trim to the edges of the plywood. I plan to have the trim a little thicker than the plywood top and trim it with a router flush trim bit. I'm not sure, though, how to attach it to the edge.

2. Should I miter the corners or do a bread-board end? I'm not confident I can cut exact miters. I have a Delta Unisaw that's well tuned and an Incra miter fence, but little experience in cutting miters.

3. What manufacturer makes the best router bits. I'll need to purchase a flush trim bit, a table edge bit and perhaps some kind of slot-cutting bit for attaching the edging.

I appreciate any comments or advice.

Thanks,

Kevin H.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You can just glue and clamp the edging. The wood can follow around the edge, with mitered corners. It doesn't have to be breadboarded. Once glued on, use a flush trim bit. If the edge is still a bit proud, careful use of a scraper will flush the wood to the top. 

I don't have an absolute favorite for router bits. I stay away from the cheapos.


----------



## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

I agree w/ suggestion for miter and recommend that you do test cuts on scrap wood to be absolutely sure you are getting an accurate cut before you do the real thing. 

If it were me, I'd put in a few horizontal, plugged, screws around the edge to reinforce the glue.

Paul


----------



## toddj99 (Jan 1, 2008)

here's how i did the top of my wife's sewing table with the same exact method that you're describing. i glued and screwed the trim, butt jointed, then used a plug cutter to cover the screw heads, chiseled them down carefully then sanded them. i counter sunk the screw holes 3/8", then used a plug cutter to cover them. carefully chiseled them down, then sanded. I used a flush tim bit i bought from workshop tools for about 5 bucks. I'll use the cheaper, simple 1/2" shank bits i buy from them as i haven't had any problems from them, yet.


----------



## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

Todd, phinds and Cabinetman,

Thanks for the replies. I thought I'd have to do some kind of elaborate spline or some other fancy joinery to attache the trim. Now I think I'll just glue and screw as you guys suggest.

Thanks!

Kevin H.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Screws IMO are an overkill and leave too large of a hole. Glue and clamps is all that is really needed. If you want to use a fastener, a brad nailer would work. If you don't have one of those, use a small brad/finish nail and hammer it in. You could drill a pilot hole with the nail you are using by cutting off the head and using it for a drill bit.


----------



## toddj99 (Jan 1, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Screws IMO are an overkill and leave too large of a hole. Glue and clamps is all that is really needed. If you want to use a fastener, a brad nailer would work. If you don't have one of those, use a small brad/finish nail and hammer it in. You could drill a pilot hole with the nail you are using by cutting off the head and using it for a drill bit.


 
Cabinetman, the trim I used on the sewing table is 13/16 x 1 1/2. I could have gotten away with glue only? I have another project lined up (computer desk) and plan on using the same technique, 13/16 x 2 for it. Think I'll get away with just glue? Titebond II is what I use.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

toddj99 said:


> Cabinetman, the trim I used on the sewing table is 13/16 x 1 1/2. I could have gotten away with glue only? I have another project lined up (computer desk) and plan on using the same technique, 13/16 x 2 for it. Think I'll get away with just glue? Titebond II is what I use.




10-4


----------



## toddj99 (Jan 1, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> 10-4


roger 

thanks


----------

