# Alder Butcher Block with Arm-R-Seal



## Aurilious (Nov 29, 2010)

Hello,

I'm trying to complete a satin topcoat on an alder butcher block table top and am having issues with the sheen when viewed in direct light. The table has 3 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (1+ days of dry time between coats), the first two coats applied with a sponge brush, and the last applied with a cotton rag. The surface was sanded with 320 grit paper on a foam sanding block between coats of Arm-R-Seal to knock down the dust specks.

The satin finish looks great in indirect light, but direct light shows streaks. See pictures in link below. The last coat of Arm-R-Seal was done with a cotton rag since after the 2nd coat I didn't like the streaks left by the foam brush. 

Alder Butcher Block Table Top

Just after the two applications of oil based stain, the surface looked amazing before applying any topcoat. 

Can anyone point out what is going wrong? Do I just need to do final rubbing with 0000 steel wool and paste wax per http://woodworking.com/ww/Article/Rubbing_Out_The_Final_Step_to_a_Great_Finish_7436.aspx


----------



## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

I am not an expert at all on finishing but I do have quite a bit of experience with Arm-R-Seal. Arm-R-Seal is a great finish but it dries quickly. If the conditions are right you can easily apply three coats in a day. What has happened to you is the finish has already started to dry before you did your last wiping with your cloth. You can easily fix your problem, sand down that coat that is messed up with a sanding sponge until you get it flat again. Then make sure that you have stirred up the Arm-R-Seal, you might need to thin it down a little if it has gotten thick. I use tone half of a blue paper shop towel to apply it. On something that size you have to work quickly or only do sections at a time. Once you have it covered you can go over it about once more to wipe out any marks but that is it. If you keep on wiping you will end up with what you have. 
Another option that will eliminate any marks is to take the same type of towel that is just damp with the sealer but not wet and wipe of most of the final coat.


----------



## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

you can add a LITTLE bit of penitrol with your finish, or a touch of tung oil 100% for longer workability. dry time will be extended a touch.


----------



## Mr. Fixer Upper (Sep 23, 2011)

I have purchased some alder butcher block unfinished tables that look very similar to what you have here and was also planning on going the Arm-R-Seal route.

I would love to know what you stained with though! Love that color!


----------



## Aurilious (Nov 29, 2010)

Products I used for stain:

ZAR 121 Black Onyx for the legs and lower vertical sections
ZAR 124 Rosewood for the butcher block top

Since my last post over a year ago, I ended up taking the table top back to the retailer to have them fix the topcoat. Even their professional finishing guy attempted 4 times with the wipe on Arm-R-Seal Satin and ended up with the same nasty finish once dried. He ended up spraying the Arm-R-Seal which finally resulted in a smooth finish! 

After this whole ordeal, the retailer did not charge me for all the rework effort. It seemed as if I was their first customer who had used this product on such a large smooth surface. The legs of the table and the lower vertical pieces I finished with the Arm-R-Seal by hand and they came out great. 

I also learned that if I had them finish the table the only product they use in their finishing department is spray on varnish.


----------

