# Aluminum Cutting



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I need to cut some T-track for the mitre fences on my Super Sled. I read that any carbide tipped wood blades will cut aluminum but that has to wreak havic on the blades. I'd really hate to jack up my new blades. Should I put my old blade back on my miter saw to cut it? A hacksaw will not give me the pretty clean cut that I'm looking for. What do you guys use?


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## Jackfre (Dec 23, 2009)

*Chop saws, band saws, hack saw sawz-all*



BassBlaster said:


> I need to cut some T-track for the mitre fences on my Super Sled. I read that any carbide tipped wood blades will cut aluminum but that has to wreak havic on the blades. I'd really hate to jack up my new blades. Should I put my old blade back on my miter saw to cut it? A hacksaw will not give me the pretty clean cut that I'm looking for. What do you guys use?


It is soft enough that about anything will cut it. I agree that I would not want to use my new blades but any mankie blade would do. I'd just use a hacksaw and trim it up with a couple files.


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## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

use a hacksaw to cut it close then take it down to the line with a belt or disc sander. what i did for my super sled miter fences was cut the track a bit long and then sanded it on my disc sander after i attached it to the fence.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Didnt even think about the sander. Thanks for the tip, that sounds like the winner!!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

BassBlaster said:


> I need to cut some T-track for the mitre fences on my Super Sled. I read that any carbide tipped wood blades will cut aluminum but that has to wreak havic on the blades. I'd really hate to jack up my new blades. Should I put my old blade back on my miter saw to cut it? A hacksaw will not give me the pretty clean cut that I'm looking for. What do you guys use?


You do not have a "hack saw?"

This is a good time to purchase one. Personally I do not think that any tool collection is complete without at least one metal cutting tool.

Hack saws are cheap.

George


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## ed_h (Dec 1, 2010)

I've cut a fair amount of aluminum on table saws and mitre saws using carbide blades, and while it can be noisy and messy, I don't think it's much harder on the blades than some hardwoods are.

OTOH, aluminum alloys vary a lot in their hardness, and there may be some that just aren't worth the trouble.


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## NorCal Scot (Dec 31, 2010)

Blades that cut aluminum correctly have a completely different tooth geometry. Also, the consistency of the carbide is generally much different. Since most wood cutting blades use an ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) grind, you will dull your blade very quickly when cutting aluminum. Generally, you would need a non- ferrous blade that uses a TCG (Triple Chip Grind) to cut the aluminum. However, non-ferrous blades generally aren't cheap. You can cut aluminum with a wood blade, but it generally isn't recommended. You do live in America though, and last time I looked, you can make your own choice. Either way, PLEASE use proper protection equipment. Nothing like a curly piece of aluminum in your eye!


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Hack saw, smooth it off with a flat file or sander.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> You do not have a "hack saw?"
> 
> This is a good time to purchase one. Personally I do not think that any tool collection is complete without at least one metal cutting tool.
> 
> ...


 Where did I say I didnt have a hack saw? I have several. Hack saws do exactly like the name implies, they "hack" the material. I'm looking for a clean finish. I'm going with the hack saw and the disk sander.

Thanks for the replies guys.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Saw it off carefully with a hack saw and then square & smooth the cut by draw filing with a mill file. That will leave a very smooth finish. To draw file, put the file handle in your left hand and the file end in your right, then pull the file across the work with both hands while keeping it perpendicular to the stock.

Since aluminum tends to clog files, first rub a piece of chalk over the file's teeth.

Bill


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

BassBlaster said:


> I need to cut some T-track for the mitre fences on my Super Sled. I read that any carbide tipped wood blades will cut aluminum but that has to wreak havic on the blades. I'd really hate to jack up my new blades. Should I put my old blade back on my miter saw to cut it? A hacksaw will not give me the pretty clean cut that I'm looking for. What do you guys use?


Hello Bass, all,

I just rec'd the latest issue of ShopNotes (vol 20, issue 117) and it contains an article on p. 46 about cutting metal.

Jeff


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ed_h said:


> I've cut a fair amount of aluminum on table saws and mitre saws using carbide blades, and while it can be noisy and messy, I don't think it's much harder on the blades than some hardwoods are.


+1. I've cut a lot of aluminum on the TS, RAS, and a CMS. Most carbide tipped blades of any hook and grind will cut aluminum. If your blade is a 10" I would recommend at least a 60T. A few cuts will not do any appreciable damage. If you have a lot to cut, I suggest using an older blade. 

Use eye/face protection. The little shards that fly off can be hotter than heck.












 







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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Cheap die grinder and a zip wheel.We cut aluminum arrows all the time with this setup.Leaves an extremely clean cut.BW


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

gus said:


> use a hacksaw to cut it close then take it down to the line with a belt or disc sander. what i did for my super sled miter fences was cut the track a bit long and then sanded it on my disc sander after i attached it to the fence.


Absolutely. Why would you ever want to cut it on a power saw.

A very simple hacksaw cut.

It could have been cut in the time it took to ask this question.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> Absolutely. Why would you ever want to cut it on a power saw.
> 
> A very simple hacksaw cut.
> 
> ...


The use and/or need to cut aluminum may vary. If it's one cut, the cut itself may have a priority. IOW, some cuts have to be a perfect 90 degree cut. Ninety nine times out of 100, you aren't going to get a perfect 90 degree cut with a hack saw. OK...you're real good...maybe 95 out of 100 times. 

So, the need depends on what you use to cut the metal. I've done retail stores with showcases and display cases with aluminum frames that have to be cut with a power saw, as the cuts have to be dead on to line up, make good miters, or butt joints, or to cut so one piece will slide into another. 

Many cuts on aluminum are going to leave a burred edge. This edge should be dressed off as it's sharp. A quick swipe with a mill file, or a pass with some si-carbide sandpaper (or emery cloth) away from the cut deburrs very well.

So to answer... why cut on a power saw? It's faster, more accurate, and less labor intensive, especially if you have physical limitations for work that is physically demanding.












 







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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I cut a lot of aluminum, and the shape I cut is unfriendly to a saw blade. But still I don't have to have it sharpened frequently. The blade is an Avante Ice and the last time it was sharpened was over a year ago for sure. Whenever I sent it to Daren last time whenever that was and it's made many hundreds of cuts - maybe a thousand through the K-shape stock used for my jigs. I do mist the area to be crosscut with Liquid Wrench prior to the cut and it makes a dramatic difference. 

I also use carbide router bits in the CNC to cut the profiles. The bits are just regular woodworking bits made by Whiteside. My experience cutting aluminum with woodworking grade blades and bits has been that many of the dense Texas hardwoods such as Pecan, Persimmon, Hickory, Bois d' Arc, Locust, and of course Mesquite - these woods are much harder on tooling than aluminum. 

There are different alloys of aluminum sure, but most of the ones you're likely to run into will not be harder on blades than some of the species I named. I didn't see it mentioned but the lube is a very important detail. You can spray the aluminum or coat the blade on both sides with a short spurt as it rotates and that works just as good but remember you got to clean the blade/bed/fence etc before you transition back to wood. 

You got lots of good advice but I think the best you got was on the eye protection. You may forget to don your goggles but after you have to dig a shard out as Mike described, you will never, ever, forget after that. Not saying I ever had that happen - just sayin'. :whistling2:







.


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## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

An old construction tip is to spin the blade around and cut through aluminum. It cuts very nicely. I use a dedicated metal cutting miter saw.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Nate1778 said:


> An old construction tip is to spin the blade around and cut through aluminum. It cuts very nicely. I use a dedicated metal cutting miter saw.


 
I wouldn't do that with a carbide tipped blade, steel panel blade yes. :smile:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

"So to answer... why cut on a power saw? It's faster, more accurate, and less labor intensive, especially if you have physical limitations for work that is physically demanding."

I will grant you that it is more accurate if very close tolerances are needed. But faster? I do not think so. As I said, for the one cut the poster wanted I could have cut it while he was asking the question. And unless you are going to da a lot of cutting then I do not think that physical limitations would come into play . And in that case if I was going to do a lot I could purchase a dedicated power hack saw.

George


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Why not use your bandsaw? I use a four speed to cut anything from balsa wood to tool steel.:thumbsup:


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

dodgeboy77 said:


> Saw it off carefully with a hack saw and then square & smooth the cut by draw filing with a mill file. That will leave a very smooth finish. To draw file, put the file handle in your left hand and the file end in your right, then pull the file across the work with both hands while keeping it perpendicular to the stock.
> 
> Since aluminum tends to clog files, first rub a piece of chalk over the file's teeth.
> 
> Bill


+1

I went to school with a machinist and he told me that in the shop they used router bits on aluminum without a problem. 

I have ripped an aluminum threshold using a RAS and carbide tipped blade. (Over 6 feet) I have cut aluminum "T" track on my SCMS. I've not noticed any damage to the blades. Just go slow and easy with the aluminum secured in the cut.

BTW - White oak seems to be harder than aluminum.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Here is where I'm going to get everybody made at me...

Well over 20 years ago, I was involved in erecting screen enclosures around pools, porches, and patios. They are constructed using alum extrusions of varying sizes depending on the structure. I bought a Delta 10" compound miter saw and a 40 tooth Craftsman combination carbide tipped blade.

Over the years it has made thousands of cuts in alum, a few cuts in mild steel, and it is still my "go to" saw for rough framing. It is still wearing the same blade I bought way back when and still cuts just fine.

Eye protection is paramount as the chips fly!

I have even used my Skill circular saw (with a plastic housing and blade guard) to cut alum soffet for the eves of both new and remodeling home construction. Again, using a 7 1/4" carbide tipped Craftsman blade. Both the saw and the blade are well over 20 years old and are still working perfectly.

I see no damage to any to the teeth, or the saws even after this abuse. The cuts do need to be cleaned up at the edges with a file or a disk sander, but that's nothing unusual when cutting metals with any type of saw.


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## czbeme (Jan 22, 2018)

*tool designed for cutting metal*

A cutting disc on an angle grinder does a good job.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

czbeme said:


> A cutting disc on an angle grinder does a good job.


Pretty sure that after 7 years the OP has either made the cut or died. Either way, raising a dead thread was a waste of a post


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

I agree but interesting to see posts. I simply bought a Bosch Alloy cutting blade for my jigsaw. 
johnep


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## czbeme (Jan 22, 2018)

*Dead thread*



epicfail48 said:


> Pretty sure that after 7 years the OP has either made the cut or died. Either way, raising a dead thread was a waste of a post


If 'dead threads' are of no value then the forum should delete them.
I stumbled over the thread by an unrelated search.
Just added my 2 cents for future users looking for the same info as the OP.
Cutting t track is a common task and I'll take good info no matter how old.

Johnep1934 feedback on using a: "Bosch Alloy cutting blade for my jigsaw",
also seemed to be a better suggestion than chewing up your carbide table saw blades IMHO.

....but I could be wrong, it's happened before.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Old thread, but I have cut aluminium many many times on my miter saw and table saw and never noticed it dulling my blades at all, always cut very smooth, just cut slow. Just wear eye protection, those chips coming off the saw hurt.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Dead threads are like the Bible ....*



epicfail48 said:


> Pretty sure that after 7 years the OP has either made the cut or died. Either way, raising a dead thread was a waste of a post


If the OP is gone or died and that makes the information within, a "waste of posts" then you may as well burn all the Bibles 'cause we know all those folks are dead. Jesus may come back, but we still carry on without him. Carry on men!

I cut aluminum my bandsaw using a wood blade at full speed. No issues, unless it's very thick, 2" or so. It generates a lot of heat. Then I need to use a metal cutting blade at a slower FPM speed, FWIW. :wink:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

epicfail48 said:


> Pretty sure that after 7 years the OP has either made the cut or died. Either way, raising a dead thread was a waste of a post


The way I see it the only one it really matters to is the person that made the post, the rest of us are just looking on, 7 years, or 7 minutes, what is the difference, besides that, it is fun going down memory lane sometimes.


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

I miss posts from Daren Nelson and Texas Timbers, plus a few other whose names escape me.
johnep


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