# Router table build



## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

*Router table build-update #1*

I've really been wanting a decent router table, and after seeing what's available I decided to go ahead and build my own. 
I bought a woodpecker lift to hold the mighty Porter Cable 7518
I still have alot of work to do, build the dust collection, finish the carcass, build and hang the door etc..
I really like my router bit drawer!, it has a shallow drawer on top to hold wrenches etc.. The two big drawers are 16x 22, should be roomy enough for my smaller routers, router straight edge.
I hung the drawers on Accuride full extension glides. The bottoms being 150lbs.

I do have a question though. I am planning on using 1" MDF for the top, with laminate top and bottom. Is this going to be beefy enough? Should I go with something 1 1/2"?

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60527&stc=1&d=1358820293

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60528&stc=1&d=1358820293
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60529&stc=1&d=1358820299
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60530&stc=1&d=1358820299

If you guys have any siggestions I would love to hear them!
Thanks for looking.


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## tplociniak (Oct 22, 2012)

This looks great, can't wait to see it finished


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## JohnnyTooBad (Dec 9, 2012)

Nice! I'm about to build one. Just ordered a new router and a bunch of parts last night. Mine won't be nearly as fancy, as I don't have room. Mine will be a table top model, although probably large for a table top model, with some minimal interior storage for bits and router tools, and made out of a lot of plywood.

I just got a response from someone on another thread that suggested doubling up 3/4" MDF into 1 1/2". What I may actually do, is put 3/4" MDF on top of 3/4" ply, since MDF is so flexible and I'd like a larger table.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

You can add a frame member close to the router to prevent sagging. Two thicknesses of 3/4" can limit the reach on many bits.


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## MapleMoose (Sep 25, 2012)

That is going to be nice! I would go with 1.5" MDF to support the 7518. I had a Hitachi M12V (probably similar weight) sitting in a 1.5" MDF table with a 27" span for years, with no measurable sag. For what its worth, I had a phenolic insert instead of aluminum. Sure would like one of those Woodpeckers PRLs, those are sweet!


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Nice job. Can't wait to see it finished and dust collecting setup. I'm building one next. I think its the same router too.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Looking good so far. Keep it up.


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## JMartel (Nov 30, 2011)

Hammer1 said:


> You can add a frame member close to the router to prevent sagging. Two thicknesses of 3/4" can limit the reach on many bits.


Well with the router plate he's using, that won't be an issue. You would rabbet out the space for the plate and hang the router from a much thinner metal plate rather than the full thickness of the top. 



OP: Maybe consider making it out of Melamine? That way you have a slicker surface for the wood to slide on rather than MDF. Or you can get some laminate from coutertops and put it on top of the MDF you were planning on using. When I build myself another router table, I plan to do one of those two things.


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

JMartel said:


> Well with the router plate he's using, that won't be an issue. You would rabbet out the space for the plate and hang the router from a much thinner metal plate rather than the full thickness of the top.
> 
> 
> 
> OP: Maybe consider making it out of Melamine? That way you have a slicker surface for the wood to slide on rather than MDF. Or you can get some laminate from coutertops and put it on top of the MDF you were planning on using. When I build myself another router table, I plan to do one of those two things.


I think Hammer was referring to Johnny's post about mounting his router base underneath.

Anyways, yeah well thanks for the kind words! I have alot still ahead of me, that's for sure. I am planning on putting P-lam on both sides, you do this mainly to keep the table flat.
One other thing I might consider, I have a partial sheet of 1/2" Corian, that might be a good surface, I'm gonna check into how I can glue those together, if that doesn't work I have some 1/2" MDF that I can glue to the 1" MDF. Man that table is going to be rock solid and rock heavy!!


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## WWWorker (Jan 12, 2011)

Looks great! I used melamine for.my router table. Sturdy & let's the wood glide a little easier. Plus the white background reflects the light. 

Nice work


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

wilbwworker said:


> Looks great! I used melamine for.my router table. Sturdy & let's the wood glide a little easier. Plus the white background reflects the light.
> 
> Nice work


+1 on the Melamine particle board, though it does easily chip on edges. This can be prevented with solid wood edge banding, but it is still prone to chipping next to your router plate or aluminum tracks if installed.


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## WWWorker (Jan 12, 2011)

When I cut it I think I used a sacrificial "sandwich" of thin stock to minimize chipping


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

I have been super kinda busy :no: but anyway here is where I stand.
I finished the carcass and mounted all the drawers and made the drawer faces. I used 1/2" sandply, which I found on sale for $22 a sheet. One note about the upper drawers, the width is such that I had to mount the glides before I put the carcass together. Took a few extra minutes to makes sure I had my math right and once again put everything together dry to make sure it was a smooth operator.
I stopped by my local plastic/glass shop to buy the 1/4" plexi for the door and the guy was super nice! he told me that if I didn't mind finding a piece in the rem pile (might be dinged) I was welcome to have it, score!
So, here I am. I'm ready to tackle the top. I think I have all the right fixtures and such, so tomorrow I build. The fence will come last. I hope you all like my progress and effort.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61641&stc=1&d=1359774648
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61642&stc=1&d=1359774648
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61643&stc=1&d=1359774648
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61644&stc=1&d=1359774648


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Looks great. I really like the plexiglass panel.

My wife and I both just laughed a lot at your signature too...


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## terrysumner (Oct 5, 2008)

May I suggest that you hinge the top. I did this with mine and it makes things so much easier to get at. I used a full length piano hinge along the back of the top. Also, I used 2 pieces of melamine screwed together with oak edging. It's solid!


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Well I finally got the top built! I went with 1" and 1/2" MDF glued.
I then laminated both sides with white laminate. Man I about had a nervous breakdown getting ready to rout that top, but all went well. I must have checked my layout a half dozen times. 
Anyway, on to the fence! This should be fun. I hope you all enjoy the pics.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62328&stc=1&d=1360389513
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62329&stc=1&d=1360389513
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62330&stc=1&d=1360389513
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62331&stc=1&d=1360389513


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Table looks great! I suppose it is time to make some sawdust! Do you have a fence yet or are you building one?

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## Rockerbox1 (Jan 21, 2011)

Great work. That cabinet looks great


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Very nice. Looking forward to how you make your fence.


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## papa_smurf73 (Oct 8, 2012)

Wow. This looks fantastic. You did such a great job. Thanks for sharing.


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## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

whhen i grow up, i wanna make a router table just like this one! seriously though, this is wicked nice.


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Well I finally got it finished! The fence turned out nicely. I ended up at HD and saw these 2 1/2" eave vents and I thought what a way to get fresh air in the cabinet without drilling holes in the door, like I've seen some folks do.
I laminated both the face and the bottom of the fence for smooth movement. I had a can of white spray paint, so before I laid the P-lam I hit it with the white just to somewhat spruce it up.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63932&stc=1&d=1361677761
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63933&stc=1&d=1361677761
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63934&stc=1&d=1361677761
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63935&stc=1&d=1361677761

It was enjoyable building this and I know This table will increase my capabilities. Thanks again for all your kind comments and suggestions.
Eric


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

WOW> Awesome job!


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

That is one sweet set up, top to bottom, front to back, side to side, inside and out.

Well thought out and well executed.

The tall fence is very nice. Did you build it from plans or design it yourself?

Fantastic job!


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Thanks guys! Really I just went off of other peoples pictures of their tables, gathering ideas of things I liked. I'm not so certain you could say this was well thought out though. Half way through the build I had to scrap my first idea for the router bit drawer, it was just not coming together as I wanted it to. Bad design. 
I had to walk away for awhile and let the brain stew on the issue.
Take the plexi door for instance, while I like it and wanted to incorporate it, the picture I saw of it had holes drilled in it for freash air intake, that I didn't like so much. In a momement of inspiration at HD I saw those eave vents and it hit me Waalaa! Now whether or not they provide the necessary fresh air, well that remains to be seen.
I wish I had made the top alittle wider, maybe give it a 2 or 3" overhang. But it's finished, so any second guessing is only gonna give me a headache, so I'll just enjoy it and use it. ALOT!


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

... The tall fence is very nice. Did you build it from plans or design it yourself?


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Just looked at a bunch of pictures and came up with this..No plans

This is what I was looking at http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=norm's+router+table&FORM=HDRSC2

I'm just a copy cat! as well as 200 other folks


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Sorry I thought the no plans applied only to the table and top.

Great job on everything


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## mavawreck (Nov 26, 2011)

Beautiful table


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## papa_smurf73 (Oct 8, 2012)

Wow this came together so nicely. Well done, and thanks for all the time you spent taking photos. It helps newbys like me to envision how the process of doing this works.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

That is very nice. It's almost too nice for shop stuff!


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## MORRIS76 (May 6, 2013)

AMAZING job on your table!! Thanks for taking the time to take and post so many photos.
When you routed the top for your plate how did you determine which bit would cut the radius which would match the corner radius on the plate?


I can do everything except mount the drawer guides. They'd have to have some serious adjustments for me to ever line them up.

I made one cabinet and bought a table and when I went to mount the table on the cabinet I used some double sided tape I bought at an auto parts store. I figured the tape would let me move it around a bit before I mounted it permanently. I placed the table on the cabinet and found out it wouldn't move at all. I could lift the complete cabinet holding on to the table and it wouldn't budge. I tried about 10yrs. later to beat it off with a small sledge........won't budge. I had a problem with the guides and since I couldn't replace the table I routed new slots for new guides in place. Odd thing is after all that abuse....lifting and beating the table is still flat.:yes:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Good job on the table. Way to go with the Pecker and the Porter.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

God that's sweet!!! Wish I has that talent.


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## Day in Paradise (Oct 11, 2012)

Wow just Wow


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

That's an awesome table! Great design & use of space. And the fence design looks like a winner

Brian


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Crusader.....can you confirm how high the top of your table is off the ground?


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> Crusader.....can you confirm how high the top of your table is off the ground?


It is 37"


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Would you keep it the same height if you rebuilt it today?


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> Would you keep it the same height if you rebuilt it today?


The only thing I would change on my table is the table over hang. I might increase it maybe 1 1/2" but other than that I think it came out better than I expected. it's a joy to use.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Mines shaping up to be pretty similar on paper....but I can't decide on a height. 36 seems too low, but I'm worried 42 is too high.....40 doesn't seem right..... Guess I'll just start building and see what happens.


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> Mines shaping up to be pretty similar on paper....but I can't decide on a height. 36 seems too low, but I'm worried 42 is too high.....40 doesn't seem right..... Guess I'll just start building and see what happens.


Well I'm 5'10" and when I first put the casters on it, they were 2" casters and I felt the table was a tad too low, so I took them back at got 3 1/2" casters and perfect! I like not having to stoop down when I set it up, but it's also not right in my face when I'm running it.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Personally, I like the table just about an inch below my elbows, when I'm standing next to it, which is 41-inches. My big router table which is made from a 6-8 X 3-6, solid core door is 36-inches high when I set it up. It is reserved for working on large flat pieces. Things like pattern routing plywood yard art. 

Bill Hylton, the author of the two best selling books on the router ever published, has a design for one that is higher than that. He is over 6-ft tall, and for some operations prefers a table surface that is chest high. 

If you haven't read his book on router tables, you probably should before you finalize your design.


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## geraldvg (Dec 16, 2008)

*Enclosure venting*

Love your table design and build. 

Just thought I'd add a note from a video I saw somewhere else that you might want to think about. The presenter ducted the vents on the bottom of his router motor out of the DC box to fresh air using a length of corrigated/flexible drain line to keep the motor from fighting the DC and sucking chips & dust up into the motor housing. He cut the cabinet hole large enough and the flex line long enough, not worrying about what leakage would occur, to allow the router to be moved up and down without restriction. I think I'm going to incorporate the idea when I build my router cabinet, which is going to have to wait until I complete a total reorg of my shop and installation of the central DC system that has brought the reorg about. 

Really like your work and plan to "steal" your plexiglas idea.:thumbup1::thumbup1:


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## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

Very nice and the drawers are excellent.


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

geraldvg said:


> Love your table design and build.
> 
> Just thought I'd add a note from a video I saw somewhere else that you might want to think about. The presenter ducted the vents on the bottom of his router motor out of the DC box to fresh air using a length of corrigated/flexible drain line to keep the motor from fighting the DC and sucking chips & dust up into the motor housing. He cut the cabinet hole large enough and the flex line long enough, not worrying about what leakage would occur, to allow the router to be moved up and down without restriction. I think I'm going to incorporate the idea when I build my router cabinet, which is going to have to wait until I complete a total reorg of my shop and installation of the central DC system that has brought the reorg about.
> 
> Really like your work and plan to "steal" your plexiglas idea.:thumbup1::thumbup1:


Thanks for the kind words :thumbsup: I haven't had any problems with dust or chips. The two 2 1/2" vents I have seem to be doing a good job of providing fresh air as well as preventing any sort of vacuum lock.

Feel free to use anything you see as there is no such thing as stealing from me. None of the things you see on my router table, besides the bit drawer is original to my brain :laughing: You can Google router tables and see about twenty or so tables that look pretty much like mine.
Good luck on your re org!


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## Quality Wood (Jan 26, 2014)

just wow, looks just great.

how long have you been woodworking to be able to make something like this?


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Quality Wood said:


> just wow, looks just great.
> 
> how long have you been woodworking to be able to make something like this?


Off and on for about 6 weeks, it's that easy. :laughing:


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## Quality Wood (Jan 26, 2014)

yes but seriously? i am curious.


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

I've been fortunate to have grown up the son of a cabinet / furniture maker.
If you look at the build, you'll see it is just a 
series of steps, none of them really complicated. New woodworkers tend to look at the whole picture and get overwhelmed, doesn't need to if you break it down.
You can do it!


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## Jim West Pa (Jul 27, 2010)

Quality job Eric. 
Norm would certainly approve.:thumbsup:


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