# Best way to cut 6"x6"x8' foot long diagnolly.



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

Hi everyone,

thought I would ask you pros about what is the BEST way to rip cut a 4x6 or even a 6x6 timber that is 8' long diagnolly in half. 

I've seen these jigs for your tablesaw where people cut wood diagnolly, but that was only for small pieces like 3' and under. I have 8', the whole board to rip. Also table saw wouldn't cut it in half, meaning I'd have to try to align two passes, tricky at best.

I also thought about using the circular saw and just following a line and cutting lengthwise down it. Still having to try to to make two cuts, top and bottom. 

I don't have a bandsaw but I did think about buying a heavy duty bandsaw(wouldn't be cheap) and trying to set up in feed and out feed tables so I could push the lumber through. This idea would indeed cut it in one pass at least. I have about 70 of these diagnols to make out of 35 6x6's. 

What do you all think is the best way to do this? Or is there yet another way I haven't thought of. :huh:

Thanks,
Av


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

What is the purpose of these timbers?


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It might be easier to find someone that has a small bandsaw mill and build a cradle to lay the wood on to resaw. Something like the portable sawmill Harbor Freight sells would do it.


----------



## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

you can build a very simple triangle onto the timber to establish a guide edge to run against a fence making the timber the hypotenuse.

of course no 10" table saw is going to cut in 1 pass, you can flip it, but chances are the 2 cuts will not be EXACTLY on top of each other. is that an issue? could follow up with a router sled to shave the surface smooth.

a band saw would do the job in one pass, probably the better suited tool, but sometimes the best tool is the one you own.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

bauerbach said:


> you can build a very simple triangle onto the timber to establish a guide edge to run against a fence making the timber the hypotenuse.
> 
> of course no 10" table saw is going to cut in 1 pass, you can flip it, but chances are the 2 cuts will not be EXACTLY on top of each other. is that an issue? could follow up with a router sled to shave the surface smooth.
> 
> a band saw would do the job in one pass, probably the better suited tool, but sometimes the best tool is the one you own.




That's definitely an idea, is make some kind of a bracket that screws into the timber holding it at the correct angle and then feed it through the table saw. I don't even think a 12" saw can cut through a 6"x6" in one pass, can it?


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

I was looking at the back of my honeywell window fan and saw the exact way to do it. hehe Odd that the back of the fan would show me an even better way to do it, but answers are everywhere. Thanks guys.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*seriously?*

Bring that window fan in as a member here. It's a whole lot smarter than any of us. You've been a member here a long while and you know ... "Without photos, it didn't happen" 

I think if you just started up that window fan and stuck the timber through it it would come out exactly as you need it.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> Bring that window fan in as a member here. It's a whole lot smarter than any of us. You've been a member here a long while and you know ... "Without photos, it didn't happen"
> 
> I think if you just started up that window fan and stuck the timber through it it would come out exactly as you need it.



hehe well my mind is pretty 3d visual but seeing the back of the fan when I was sitting there I realized there's a better way to make these fence column boxes (they slip over 8' tall poles in the ground). Instead of cutting 6x6 or greater material I realize I could just make the boxes out of something like two, 2x8 and it will give largely the same appearance. 

The venting on the back of the fan has a flat spot with two diagnols coming off of it and that's what made me realize that doing it that way is much better.

I'll aslo ask the fan and see if he wants to join haha


----------



## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

yeah, a 12" blade might cut a 6x6, it would be 5.5, and depending how much blade you can get exposed.... probably not enough. but yeah.

It would be a whole lot of cutting, and a blind cut 3" deep in what is probably relatively wet wood would be a challenge for most table saws and a chore for the operator given the weight to wrangle.

Another way sounds like a great idea


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Any bandsaw with the capability to resaw the diagonal would work. Set up a jig to keep it at 45 and feed away.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

What angle are you cutting? A sliding miter saw would cut it in one pass, and be more accurate than a bandsaw.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> Any bandsaw with the capability to resaw the diagonal would work. Set up a jig to keep it at 45 and feed away.


He is cutting it in half not a small chunk off the end. This will be a heck of a bandsaw to cut a 8 foot post in half.


----------



## BanditGTP (Dec 6, 2013)

hwebb99 said:


> He is cutting it in half not a small chunk off the end. This will be a heck of a bandsaw to cut a 8 foot post in half.


I think he was looking to cut it along the full 8' length so when done, he would have 2 pieces 8' long.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

BanditGTP said:


> I think he was looking to cut it along the full 8' length so when done, he would have 2 pieces 8' long.


If that is what he is doing it should be easy. I would use a table saw. It shouldn't be hard to do with a good fence.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

He wants to cut it at a 45 the long way, I don't know of any Tablesaws that would be able to do that in one pass, and would require a minimum of a 12 inch table saw to even do it in two passes.

A band saw would be much much much more efficient at this.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

So just did the math....if it's a true 6x6 timber he needs just under 9 inches of resaw capability on a band saw, if it's really a 5.5x5.5 then he needs just under 8 inches.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Can you imagine wrestling a 8' 6x6 on a vertical bandsaw.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> Can you imagine wrestling a 8' 6x6 on a vertical bandsaw.



No kidding, especially if it was pressure treated.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

With in and outfeed tables, and a jig to hold orientation correctly it wouldn't be bad. 

I'm guessing he's not willing to buy a band mill to do a one time operation.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Avadon said:


> hehe well my mind is pretty 3d visual but seeing the back of the fan when I was sitting there I realized there's a better way to make these fence column boxes (they slip over 8' tall poles in the ground). *Instead of cutting 6x6 or greater material I realize I could just make the boxes out of something like two, 2x8 and it will give largely the same appearance.
> *


I still don't quite understand the objective. If it's to cover/conceal the 8ft poles, then yes, it would be a whole lot easier to make 2 "L" sections and join them, rather than making a 45 degree bevel on a 6" X 6". That's what threw me anyway.... you would still have to hollow it out to accept the pole, and that makes no sense. Making a hollow box from 4 separate pieces is the way to go. 

Now, how to join them becomes an issue. Miter/bevels down the length will be difficult, BUT the joints will be all but invisible. Butt joints will show the most, BUT be easiest to make. A rabbet with a thinner leg would be my choice, easy to make and assemble, self squaring and all but invisible. :yes:


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> With in and outfeed tables, and a jig to hold orientation correctly it wouldn't be bad.
> 
> I'm guessing he's not willing to buy a band mill to do a one time operation.


When was the last time you picked up a 6x6 post. :laughing: Might as well be made out of concrete.


----------



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

I would use a band saw, with a roller stand set up for infeed and outfeed. I cut angled resaws freehand frequently, and it's not that hard with a properly set up saw & a sharp high quality resaw blade. 
You could make a jig to make the process quicker. Without a bandsaw your best bet might be a circ saw & a long straight rip rail setup. I think the circ saw would be easier than trying to line up your cuts on a table saw.

Edit: Just struck me - - do you have or have access to a worm drive saw? That would definitely be the tool to use in the absence of a band saw.


----------



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> When was the last time you picked up a 6x6 post. :laughing: Might as well be made out of concrete.



I have resawed 16/4 thick hard maple at a cut height of 10" on my Grizz. That's a damn sight harder than any 6x6 post, I'd wager.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> When was the last time you picked up a 6x6 post. :laughing: Might as well be made out of concrete.



Last summer....it's not going to be fun, but it's doable. I'd want someone else to help.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

BZawat said:


> Edit: Just struck me - - do you have or have access to a worm drive saw? That would definitely be the tool to use in the absence of a band saw.



He wants to cut the 6x6 diagonal....no 7.25 circ saw has the cut depth to do so.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*he decided to use a different method!*



Avadon said:


> .....sitting there I realized there's a better way to make these fence column boxes (they slip over 8' tall poles in the ground). *Instead of cutting 6x6 or greater materia*l I realize I could just make the boxes out of something like two, 2x8 and it will give largely the same appearance.





ryan50hrl said:


> He wants to cut the 6x6 diagonal....no 7.25 circ saw has the cut depth to do so.


He's not going/trying to cut a 6" X 6" on a diagonal....thankfully. :yes:


----------



## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> He wants to cut the 6x6 diagonal....no 7.25 circ saw has the cut depth to do so.





Who said anything about 7 1/4?



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DE_8yAiOr1o


----------



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> He wants to cut the 6x6 diagonal....no 7.25 circ saw has the cut depth to do so.



Duh. You'd have to cut from both sides. Try and keep up man lol


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Even from both sides a 7.25 still wouldn't do it.....

I give up...I'm finding a beer.


----------



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

You have to use your imagination here. Without the right tool for the job (bandsaw), you'd have to slog on through with whatever else you could. Circ saw from both sides, finish the middle with a......sawzall? Good old fashioned hand-powered 4pt rip saw? Angry beaver? Whatever. Who cares. I certainly wouldn't bother to cut 70 of them without a bandsaw. The discussion is moot anyway, he said he found a better way.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> Can you imagine wrestling a 8' 6x6 on a vertical bandsaw.


Yes this is when I started to realize just how hefty of a job it would be. I would have to set up an infeed and outfeed table to hold it and then I'd be at the bandsaw it self trying my dardest to follow the line. Not easy to say the least. One thing a couple of them, but to saw 40+ of them in half, that started to seem like an impossible mission. That's when I realized two 2x8's or 2x10's could make a similar effect when held upright/vertical and used as fence column boxes and slipped over the 8' poles. THey would make the same towering/angled over effect for the fence, without getting into sawing enormous timbers. 2 by material I can cut on my own 10" table saw or even just rip with a circular saw. And at a fraction of the cost. Those 6x6 and 6x8 timbers can get quite pricey, not to mention they are killer on your back when you're moving a bunch of them.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> With in and outfeed tables, and a jig to hold orientation correctly it wouldn't be bad.
> 
> I'm guessing he's not willing to buy a band mill to do a one time operation.



I actually thought about it, but it seems like to get something decent in this range I was really looking in the 900-1500 dollar range for a real sturdy machine that cuts timbers like these for lunch. Not that I don't need that bandsaw anyway, but seemed hard to justify unless this was the absolute only way.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> I still don't quite understand the objective. If it's to cover/conceal the 8ft poles, then yes, it would be a whole lot easier to make 2 "L" sections and join them, rather than making a 45 degree bevel on a 6" X 6". That's what threw me anyway.... you would still have to hollow it out to accept the pole, and that makes no sense. Making a hollow box from 4 separate pieces is the way to go.
> 
> Now, how to join them becomes an issue. Miter/bevels down the length will be difficult, BUT the joints will be all but invisible. Butt joints will show the most, BUT be easiest to make. A rabbet with a thinner leg would be my choice, easy to make and assemble, self squaring and all but invisible. :yes:



Yes sir, you are correct. It was going to be 4 pieces all standing upright. A 2x6 x 8' tall in the back, Two 2x4's on the sides, and the face was to be the 1/2 of the diagnolly cut 6x6" x 8' long. With the widest part of the diagnol in the air, facing outward/away from the property. This gives the fence a sort of looming castle feel  And then I was just going to use long construction screws to hold it all together. I've already made 1/4 of the fence which is 330' of privacy. Those columns though were just 2x6 front and back with (rip cut to fit) 2x4's on the sides. Then all four pieces are screwed together going down the length. 

Doing 2x8's or 2x10's can give the same sort of look without having to do a solid chunk of a face. I think even in a fully setup shop, doing so many rip cuts of such hefty Pressure Treated material isn't easy. 

I've been doing butt joints which are fine because the columns are painted with very thick green restore paint so it hides most imperfections and the screw holes were puttied in so you can't even see that any screws were part of the assembly.  Of course there is no taking it apart now because you can't find the screws nor the wood to metal lags that hold the column boxes to the poles. haha. Only an airstrike could take it apart now.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> He's not going/trying to cut a 6" X 6" on a diagonal....thankfully. :yes:



yes talking to you guys and thinking it through made me see the light. I've ripped some stuff with a circular saw and the cuts generally don't line up no matter how well you measure. I mean they can be close, but you generally have to do something like use a hand planer (I have one) to plane the difference between the halves. That is why I think the bandsaw reccomendation (though expensive) really is the best way to do it, IF you have to do it. 

I'm sure sooner or later I'll have to break down and get a big bandsaw for woodwork. I have a metal cutting bandsaw then can cut up to 12" sold metal, but right now I'm lacking that in the wood equivalent.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

Chamfer said:


> Who said anything about 7 1/4?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DE_8yAiOr1o



Wow that is amazing. Had no idea such a massive circ saw existed. Great tool, but even with that saw you can see it was work to cross cut that 6 by material. Imagine if he would have ripped down the length of that beam. That would have been some work, eh. Seeing that really put it in perspective what a tall order it is. It could be done, but goodness what a project.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

BZawat said:


> You have to use your imagination here. Without the right tool for the job (bandsaw), you'd have to slog on through with whatever else you could. Circ saw from both sides, finish the middle with a......sawzall? Good old fashioned hand-powered 4pt rip saw? Angry beaver? Whatever. Who cares. I certainly wouldn't bother to cut 70 of them without a bandsaw. The discussion is moot anyway, he said he found a better way.



I agree, you do have to get creative. In fact when making post caps I cut through 6x8's and 6x12's (cross cut) and I did okay lining up the cuts, it's a short run of course but they still needed some planing to get them more even. And in order to get them cut all the way through I did have to use a dewalt reciprocating saw with one of those giant 12" long blades on it. That allowed me to cut the very center wher it was still holding on. lol 

After I finish the 900 feet of fencing if I still want to keep doing crazy big cuts like this I really will have to break down and spend some serious cash on a bandsaw. 

I just bought a grizzly sawdust extractor for $700 because my routing table and table saw where making such silly amounts of dust making post caps and molding. I made 100LB of sawdust in a weekend and a lot of it was all over me. The shop vac does okay at sucking it up, but fills up very quickly. :laughing:


----------



## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Here is what you need.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5402NA...id=1428143465&sr=8-9&keywords=makita+skil+saw

I have one and use it all the time. Very handy saw to have. Will cut a full 6" deep.


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

These "6x6" are wraps just like you are suggesting...

There is more about them here :

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/need-alternative-6x6-post-ideas-68074/


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> Here is what you need.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5402NA...id=1428143465&sr=8-9&keywords=makita+skil+saw
> 
> I have one and use it all the time. Very handy saw to have. Will cut a full 6" deep.


wow that's beautiful. I wish it was about half that price though. That's an expensive saw, yikes. I could see it being super handy though.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

shoot summ said:


> These "6x6" are wraps just like you are suggesting...
> 
> There is more about them here :
> 
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/need-alternative-6x6-post-ideas-68074/



Yes that is exactly like I've made the 44 column boxes on my neighbors side. Those are not fancy, just two 2x6's and two 2x4's to make a long rectangle to slide over a 7.5' metal pole. 

However the other ones (I'm on corner with only one neighbor) that go around my property are going to be far fancier  The neighbor didn't put a cent into the fence I built. 330' of privacy fence and boxed hog wire above it. 15k total. So they get no opinion or say whatsoever on that fence we share. And if they ever touch it or mess with it I'll smack them lol


----------



## Kansas Gary (Nov 13, 2014)

Come on guys hasn't anyone thought of using a chain saw yet?? Snap a chalk line and go to it. Should not take longer then 3 to5 mins. on each one.......................


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Kansas Gary said:


> Come on guys hasn't anyone thought of using a chain saw yet?? Snap a chalk line and go to it. Should not take longer then 3 to5 mins. on each one.......................


He was worried about lining up two cuts with a table saw.


----------



## Pcride (Jun 4, 2012)

better off to take it to a shop or local wood worker that maybe specializes in milling wood.

Would be faster, less headache and probably wouldn't charge more than $50. Sometimes its just easier to pay to get the job done when you need special tools. Spend your time making your project, not making jigs and spending more labor hours cutting this post that you will only do once.


----------



## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

Kansas Gary said:


> Come on guys hasn't anyone thought of using a chain saw yet?? Snap a chalk line and go to it. Should not take longer then 3 to5 mins. on each one.......................


I can say it was rather entertaining to read through all of this before someone finally suggested chain saws do exist and are very useful in the correct hands.


----------



## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

SeniorSitizen said:


> I can say it was rather entertaining to read through all of this before someone finally suggested chain saws do exist and are very useful in the correct hands.


cut 35 8' posts longways with a chainsaw?

welp, you could skip the gym that day for sure


----------



## wlc (Apr 3, 2015)

I've ripped 2x6's 8' long into 1x6's and it wasn't difficult at all.
Set the blade height to half way, make the rip, then flip the board and rip the other half.
Once that was finished I planed the saw marks off.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*He's not doing that....*



woodnthings said:


> He's not going/trying to cut a 6" X 6" on a diagonal....thankfully. :yes:



Quoting the OP:
yes,talking to you guys and thinking it through made me see the light. I've ripped some stuff with a circular saw and the cuts generally don't line up no matter how well you measure. I mean they can be close, but you generally have to do something like use a hand planer (I have one) to plane the difference between the halves. That is why I think the bandsaw reccomendation (though expensive) really is the best way to do it, IF you have to do it. 

and:
Yes sir, you are correct. It was going to be 4 pieces all standing upright. A 2x6 x 8' tall in the back, Two 2x4's on the sides, and the face was to be the 1/2 of the diagnolly cut 6x6" x 8' long. With the widest part of the diagnol in the air, facing outward/away from the property. This gives the fence a sort of looming castle feel  And then I was just going to use long construction screws to hold it all together. I've already made 1/4 of the fence which is 330' of privacy. Those columns though were just 2x6 front and back with (rip cut to fit) 2x4's on the sides. Then all four pieces are screwed together going down the length.


----------



## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

QUOTE:thought I would ask you pros about what is the BEST way to rip cut a 4x6 or even a 6x6 timber that is 8' long *diagnolly in half.*
*****************************************************

I guess diagnolly in half today doesn't mean what it did when took geometry. I should do better keeping up with the trends.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Do you mean like this?


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

hwebb99 said:


> Do you mean like this?


Dang, forgot picture.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

hwebb99 said:


> Dang, forgot picture.
> View attachment 148049


Well now I have to expose you all to my incredible art skills lol

I actually settled on 2x12x8' foot long pressure treated lumber. Miller Lumber is going to sell them to me for 15$ each. That's 3$ a piece under home depot and lowes. Not bad 

Below you can see the diangol cut i'm talking about. To the right, poorly drawn column box that will fit over the steel poles that I have surround the perimeter of my property. So you can see there are 2 of the diangol cut boards. Then there are 2 internal 2x4's that hold their width approximately 3" apart. The PT lumber will be painted with restore paint. The whole column box is lifted up over the poles and slid down onto the pole. Then I use wood to metal lag screws made by Torx to secure the columns to the poles. 

I thought about trying to get two diagnol pieces out of one board but it would have to be a 2x18 instead of a 2x12 and I'm pretty sure they don't make that or if they do it's a fortunate and out of my budget.


----------



## Avadon (Dec 25, 2013)

So what's with the strange box. I'm trying to create a fence column that has an over hang to look like medieval ramparts which sometimes had overhangs so that people couldn't easily climb them. Adds to the gothic/medieval look. They'll be painted with a extremely dark green color, almost black. Hopefully will look semi-ominous/malevolent hehe


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*how about this?*

Instead of lifting then sliding the entire box, which will be fairly heavy, down over the column, make a 3 sided box. Coming in from the back side of the pole, attach the "front" side last with screws. 

You may also want to put some cross pieces inside the box to prevent shifting. It will want to move around without them. 

Nice art work! :yes:


----------

