# cedar strip canoe questions



## tymann09 (Mar 4, 2011)

Hey folks. So, about 2 years ago now, i started a 16' cedar strip canoe. the first summer i worked on it, i did quite a bit. I built the strongback, made forms from patterns, did the stems, stripped it, glassed the outside, 3 coats of resin and that was it for the summer. last summer I sanded the outside of the hull and did some repairs/fixing to the fiberglass around the stem, which i did a poor job of in the first place, I also was able to do glass the inside with 2 coats of resin. I had started figuring out what to do with gunnels and inwales and proceeded to cut those out. I decided to make blocks to act as spacers so i could create scuppered inwales. I also sort of glued up a deck but am not sure if it will work. That was all i had managed to get done last summer due to the fact that i got stumped/confused/lost motivation. So now, my goal is to get this thing on the water by the end of august and i'm sort of motivated but think i'm in need of guidance. I've been going off of 3 canoe building books and they all say different things. What should i do first? inwales? deck? gunnels? since i'm doing scuppered, how do i lay out the spacing so that they are even? Also, how do i figure out how to tie it into the decks? and does it matter what the spacing is since i'll be hanging the seats from them? if i could get some of these questions answered, i'd be really appreciative! Thanks.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It would probably be best if you would follow the instructions from one book rather than three. Each craftsman that has written a book has different ways and may have a different end product in mind. If you follow all three you might end up with ends of the canoe turned in oposite directions.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Definetely use one book. I am in the process of building a strip canoe also and i am using "Canoecraft", all one word, by Ted Moores. It is a great book and very easy to follow. I have my station molds all set up and i am in the process of shaping my inside stems so my strips will lay flat on them. I will look at the book today and see if i can answer some of your questions for you if someone on here doesnt beat me to it.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Im pretty sure you finish the inwales and outwales and scuppers first, then you can properly measure for your decks. And you need to make sure the spacing of you blocks do not interfere with wear you hang your seats.


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## tymann09 (Mar 4, 2011)

thanks guys, canoecraft is actually one of the books i'm going by. I had been taking certain pieces from different books, like different methods of doing things, etc. I do recall reading that i should do the gunnels and inwales first, it just seemed strange I guess. How do i make sure that the spacing doesn't interfere with the seats? figure out the seat depth and just make sure that will land in the right place on the inwales?


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

I'll throw a dissenting opinion in here and say that I like working from different books because it gives me more ideas on how things go together and what is really necessary versus one author's particular preference in building. You also learn a lot more about boat design that way, rather than one person's concept of boat design, so it's a lot easier to start modifying things comfortably and confidently.

That said, I'd like to see pics of your project and a more clear idea of what your final goals are for it. I read canoe but then it sounds like you're putting a deck on it. I've seen decked canoes, and certainly read about them, but I want to make sure we're all using the same terms for the same concepts. Is this in fact a decked canoe or is it a kayak? What type of water are you planning to use it in and how rough do you plan to be on it? Single person or multiple people?

As for gun'ls and inwales, you can adjust the spacing as you like to fit your needs for seat position. Figure out a rough idea of where you want/need to sit (it will drastically affect boat handling) and then plan your positions accordingly. Quite often it matches the spacing of the forms used for stripping the hull, but doesn't always. The books especially tend to way overdesign in terms of how many support structures you need etc etc. I've cut them down to half the number in a couple of my boats and paddled them many many miles. Spacing isn't critical, is really the point I'm getting at, so put the inwales where you need them to be to get the seating position you want and don't fuss about it too much.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Im not sure which edition of canoecraft you have, because there is a new revised version which is the one i have. In mine on page 84 it shows you the different styles of inwales you can make. 

View attachment 46068


If u are putting decks on each end you have to attach your inwales first, since they go all the way to the stems. Then you measure the distance between your inwales for the width of your decks. Then you can make your outwales. All of this of course after you fiberglass and epoxy inside and out. On page 165 it goes into detail on how to attach your in and outwales.








Then on 168 is how to attach the decks.









Page 171 starts the seat making process and shows you a jig that is used for height. All of this can be changed to suit your preference. Ted is building the Red Bird 17' canoe in the book and i am building the Bobs Special 15', but the techniques apply to any canoe and they can be tweeked. I saw a great quote online, " its not a rocket, its a canoe." At first i was over thinking everything but after i saw this quote, i realized it doesnt have to be perfect. Dont stress and have fun!


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## tymann09 (Mar 4, 2011)

thanks a lot for the info guys. Frank, when I say decks, i'm referring to very small maybe 12 inch long decks in the front and rear of the boat. http://www.tjgwoodworking.com/index.php/boats/cedar-strip-canoe/boats-4/ rather than post pictures of the boat in progress, here's the link to my website, which has many pictures of the actual build and also shows where i'm currently at. Scoffey, Thank you for posting those pictures, my book must indeed be an older version or something because it looks somewhat unfamiliar. I had been thinking of tieing the inwales into the deck for asthetics but this seems like a much better route, running inwales the entire length, stem to stem. I think I'm going to use blocks as the scuppers and then just bend it into the hull towards the stem/deck area. with a screw and epoxy, it should hold. Also, for glueing the scupper blocks to the inwale, i should probably use epoxy right? Thanks a ton for all the help thus far.


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## hansmike (Sep 5, 2010)

The boat is looking great. You're on the final stretch! If I were you, I'd be working on that thing every second I had to get it in the water.

Last year I built a cedar strip canoe too. It's 16' whitewater, I think I have a picture of it in my photo album.

What are your plans for the seats? Are you going to cane them, make wooden ones, or buy a premade? What type of hardwood for the gunwales, decks, and thrwart? Are you building the paddles too?


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Epoxy is the route im going.


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## tymann09 (Mar 4, 2011)

well, I worked on the boat tonight! I got seat locations figured out and I also cut my inwales and gunwales to size. I only have 12' boards so i scarfed the joints together using epoxy. I have a little over 17' of material to work with. I'm planning on running inwales the full length, up to the stems. I will lay out the scupper blocks once i can put the inwales against the boat so i can see the marks i've made for the seats, that way i can make sure the seats fall on solid material. I've used Ash for the stems and am using ash for everything else as well, thwart, gunnels, seats as well as decks. I may do some cherry inlay into the decks though. not sure. I'm planning on making my own seats but they likely won't be caned. I would like to make paddles for it as well, I actually know how to make them too, it's just a matter of time. If i did make paddles, it'd be ash and mahogany.


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## gstanfield (Dec 23, 2011)

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