# how best to get paste wax off a tung oil finish



## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

I'm making my wife's daughter a blanket chest and am finishing it with multiple coats of tung oil. The finish is coming out great, but my wife wants a more durable finish on the top. I had completed the top and buffed on a coating of paste wax. I'd like now to remove the paste wax and apply a few coats of Polyurethane to give the top a little extra durability.

How can I best remove the paste wax and prepare the oil finish for the poly? Can I use water based poly? I only ask because I have a couple of quarts of WB poly on hand. Also, I don't like spraying the solvent based poly.

Thanks for any help.

Kevin H.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

What "Tung oil" did you use? Was it labeled "Tung Oil Finish" or "Pure 100% Tung Oil"?










 







.


----------



## Jdub2083 (Feb 18, 2012)

I've never worked with Tung oil, so I'm just throwing this out there, but what about heating it with a heat gun and soaking up the melted wax with a towel?


----------



## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

CM: it's Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Does that make a difference?

Thanks,

Kevin H.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

kjhart0133 said:


> CM: it's Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Does that make a difference?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kevin H.


It does make a difference. The Minwax is a stand alone varnish resin mix, not just an oil finish. It likely does not have Tung oil in it, but rather BLO, or Soy oil. You can try wiping with denatured alcohol. Mineral spirits would be another choice. 

If it was just an oil finish, a solvent can remove the oil.










 







.


----------



## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

If the finish has had time to cure well, it is safe to use most solvents quickly though watch for cracks and crevices.
You are trying to remove the wax not the finish so the best solvent would burp ably be mineral spirits like Varsol or probably a low odour mineral spirit. 
The finish you have is probably good and adding urethane may give marginally more durable finish but it will build up more and be more prone to scratching that is a nuisance to repair. Once urethane has cured, further finishes will not bond to the surface other than mechanically. 
Does the rung oil finish look how you want it? Enough coats and buffing with a good wax is a good finish.


----------



## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> It likely does not have Tung oil in it, but rather BLO, or Soy oil.

Yes, Minwax Tung Oil Finish is an oil/varnish mixture. It contains a varnish resin, linseed oil and mineral spirits. The closest it gets to "tung oil" is its label. If a container of "tung oil finsih" doesn't specifically say "pure and/or 100%", it ain't.


----------



## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Now that we know it's not real tung oil, we can offer a solution. The varnish/resin that is a component of the Minwax Tung Oil Finish will have created a pretty solid block to the penetration of any of the wax. It will also present a pretty good barrier to mineral spirits apply onto the dried varnish. So, you can apply mineral spirits wiping it off almost immediately with paper towels. Only one stroke per surface of towels (keep a fresh face) or you will only be smearing the wax around. Do it twice and you will have removed almost all of the wax.

To be sure you have a good surface for the poly, apply a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac first. Zinsser Seal Coat will work but for what appears to be a small area, I suggest you get a can or two of Zinsser Spray Can shellac. Any big box will have it. Spray on an even coat, let it dry completely and apply a couple of coats of poly.

BTW, I'm hoping you did not apply any of the Minwax to the interior surfaces of the box. Oil based finishes off-gas almost forever and any cloth or clothing items will be permeated with the odor. Use only shellac, lacquer or waterborne finishes on the inside of boxes, drawers, etc.


----------



## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

Thanks, gents, for the informative replies. I think I'm going to take Midlandbob's advice and leave it as is. I did put on many coats of the Minwax Tung Oil Finish and it's looking pretty good as it is right now. If the surface starts to get scratched up, I'll sand it back a bit, re-coat with the ersatz Tung Oil and then apply poly.

I did learn something from this thread: that the Minwax Tung Oil Finish is not Tung Oil! How can they sell something so obviously mislabeled? How would pure tung oil differ? Would it be less hard or even harder once cured? 

Thanks again,

Kevin H.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

kjhart0133 said:


> I did learn something from this thread: that the Minwax Tung Oil Finish is not Tung Oil! How can they sell something so obviously mislabeled? How would pure tung oil differ? Would it be less hard or even harder once cured?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Kevin H.


Manufacturers can call their product anything they want to. It's marketing to get someone to buy it. You did.:yes: Pure oil has no resins or solvents added. 










 







.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I would use a wax and grease remover. It is available at most auto parts stores. The product is formulated to remove wax from cars so they can be repainted.


----------



## woodgauy78 (Feb 24, 2012)

kjhart0133 said:


> I'm making my wife's daughter a blanket chest and am finishing it with multiple coats of tung oil. The finish is coming out great, but my wife wants a more durable finish on the top. I had completed the top and buffed on a coating of paste wax. I'd like now to remove the paste wax and apply a few coats of Polyurethane to give the top a little extra durability.
> 
> How can I best remove the paste wax and prepare the oil finish for the poly? Can I use water based poly? I only ask because I have a couple of quarts of WB poly on hand. Also, I don't like spraying the solvent based poly.
> 
> ...


I have used this very same finish on many pieces and found it very satisfactory. Add a few more coats of paste wax, buff it out and you have good finish. The beauty of this finish is that if it does get warn or scratch the repair os very simple. I'd stick with it if you can convince your bride.


----------



## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Who makes pure tung oil? 

I'm thinking about using it on chair arms and legs and mistakenly thought Minwax wouldn't lie.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodguy78 said:


> I have used this very same finish on many pieces and found it very satisfactory. Add a few more coats of paste wax, buff it out and you have good finish. The beauty of this finish is that if it does get warn or scratch the repair os very simple. I'd stick with it if you can convince your bride.


 





 
Adding paste wax will add little to no protection to a polyurethane finish.










 







.


----------



## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

All oil finishes are made with various plant oils. Linseed was the classic for paints but now we have a lot of "boutique" oils like tung, walnut and hemp etc.. Plant oils are used due to their property of polymerising to relatively insoluble films that protect the wood and enhance its appearance.
Some, like tung oil polimerise to a soft film so are best used where a "dull" shine in desirable. 
Most plant oils react slowly so chemicals called driers are added to make them "dry" faster. It is not really drying, it is chemically changing.
Lacquers and shellac do "dry" and harden by the evaporation of the solvent.
The driers are the "lead" in paints though most of the lead based chemicals have been replaced by cobalt and iron. If you google Japan driers or " oils drying agent" or look in Wikipedia, you will find an interesting read.
Oil bases finishes are usually in the top layers of the wood so are less prone to showing scratching and if they do, they can be rejuvenated with a quick rub with a bit of the oil and look even better over time.
The polyurethanes are a different topic. Once cured they are insoluable in almost everything. Adding a coat later is problematic and limited without removing the prior coats.
I favour the oils for all but a few items. Enjoy the "tung oil" finish.


----------

