# Flipper doors 31" x 57"



## TheNovice (Sep 25, 2010)

I'm new to this forum, so forgive me if this has been discussed before.

I'm wanting to enclose my wife's washer and dryer to make it look like it's a big armoire (sp?) rather than the two pieces of mechanical equipment they are. I would like to use some flipper doors for this piece. Accuride has some flipper doors that are good for 75lbs, but they say the maximum door width is 26". Max door height is like 79" or so, but I'm nowhere near that. 

First of all, does anybody have any experience with this type of hinge system? I know that my door won't slide all of the way back into the cabinet, but I'm fine with that. Any thoughts or precautions that need taken? 

Secondly.......does the door width really matter if the weight of my door is nowhere near 75lbs? I'm needing about 31" doors rather than the stated maximum of 26". I don't see why it matters, but before I go and buy these things, I'd love to know of other's experiences.

Thanks.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TheNovice said:


> I'm new to this forum, so forgive me if this has been discussed before.
> 
> I'm wanting to enclose my wife's washer and dryer to make it look like it's a big armoire (sp?) rather than the two pieces of mechanical equipment they are. I would like to use some flipper doors for this piece. Accuride has some flipper doors that are good for 75lbs, but they say the maximum door width is 26". Max door height is like 79" or so, but I'm nowhere near that.
> 
> ...



*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

*Here* is a set for 30" slides #143-903. When the door pockets about 3" of the door does not seat flush behind front edge. When doors get that wide, you may experience some racking. It's also worthwhile to install the upper and lower door pivots. Those are the ones that pivot the door after you pull it out to close it. You may need to make a removable lower frame to the opening. 











 





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## TheNovice (Sep 25, 2010)

I understand the racking concept. However, the forces that are applied to the hinges on a 25lb 31" door are less than what a 26" door that weighed 75lbs would be. Therefore, unless I'm missing something, it seems that I could do this. I'm comfortable with the loading issue, being an engineer, but I'm unsure what I do NOT know about flipper door hinges.

Thanks.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TheNovice said:


> I understand the racking concept. However, the forces that are applied to the hinges on a 25lb 31" door are less than what a 26" door that weighed 75lbs would be. Therefore, unless I'm missing something, it seems that I could do this. I'm comfortable with the loading issue, being an engineer, but I'm unsure what I do NOT know about flipper door hinges.
> 
> Thanks.



Flipper door hinges are basically the same as concealed euro hinges. Some pocket door kits come with them and some require you to supply your own.

The pocket door hardware is really only two slides that allow a follower strip to move from the front of the opening to the rear. That strip is what the hinges mount to.












 





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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I built a unit using the same hardware that is in the link that cabinetman posted but instead of two doors I made the doors bifold. I do remember that hanging the doors was really tough and touchy. Another thing I remember is you best not make the doors more than 3/4 inch thick as the hardware will rub the paint on the front of the doors, 13/16 just won't get it. Here is a picture of the unit after it was finished.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Man I hate getting old, here is the picture.


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## TheNovice (Sep 25, 2010)

So since I'm considering using the Accuride 1332 (I think is the model number) with the anti-racking cables, think I'd be alright? How wide was each panel that you made in that picture jiju1943?

Cabinetman, are you suggesting that I could use a pocket door frame with euro hinges? Would that perform better than Accurides anti-racking system?

Thanks.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

TheNovice said:


> So since I'm considering using the Accuride 1332 (I think is the model number) with the anti-racking cables, think I'd be alright? How wide was each panel that you made in that picture jiju1943?
> 
> Cabinetman, are you suggesting that I could use a pocket door frame with euro hinges? Would that perform better than Accurides anti-racking system?
> 
> Thanks.


The hardware I used is the one cabinetman posted the link to. *KV8091 4X4 POCKET DOOR™ SLIDES *
*ADD HINGES AND BASEPLATES OF YOUR CHOICE*  With *Knape & Vogt® KV8091 4x4 Pocket Door™ Slides* you provide the hinges and baseplates to best suit your specific application:

This is the only one I trusted to work correctly as it has the gears to keep the doors from swagging. The 4 doors were 18 inches wide and 6 foot tall and made with FAS Poplar. I know this exceeds the recommended size doors but it worked for me. Just be aware that this hardware is touchy but hang in there and it will work. Do not buy any other type hardware other than the type with the gears as it will not work. By the way, this hardware is called pocket door hardware but it isn't the kind of pocket doors in a house.

I just looked up the hardware you are talking about, do not use that hardware, it will swag, I know they say it won't but take my word for it, it will on a door that size.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Flipper door hinges are basically the same as concealed euro hinges. Some pocket door kits come with them and some require you to supply your own.
> 
> The pocket door hardware is really only two slides that allow a follower strip to move from the front of the opening to the rear. That strip is what the hinges mount to.
> 
> ...


Cabinetman, it just dawned on me that I jumped in while you were answering the OP. I am sorry, please over look an ole man this time.


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