# Dresser refinishing - veneered



## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

So I thought this was solid wood but on closer inspection its actually veneered. I was planning on using a chemical stripper to take it down bare and then staining and applying waterlox but now I'm not sure. Is it safe to chemically strip a veneered cabinet? There's a couple close ups of why I'm refinishing. It's also going in my new house as a bathroom vanity so it has to look top notch. What do you guys think?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Go over it and tap it with your finger nails. If the veneer is loose there will be a definite hollow sound. If the veneer is solid there is no risk of stripping it and the process is the same and if it was solid wood with the exception of how much you sand it. If the veneer is loose I will normally glue it down before it's stripped as the stripping process regardless of what remover you use will make the veneer wrinkle up and is more difficult to repair later. 

The wood is honduras mahogany.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I would just start with a chemical stripper. I would first give a waterbase stripper a try, like Citristrip. It's not as toxic as an MC (methylene chloride) stripper. It can be used indoors, smells like oranges, and is water clean-up. I would give it a chance first, even with a couple of applications. I like starting off with the least toxic and easiest to use method. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, I would then use an MC based stripper. They are very toxic, and I would recommend gauntlet type chemically resistant gloves, a two cartridge respirator, and face/eye protection. Work in a well ventilated area.

One of the best I've used over the counter is called "Aircraft Stripper" in the blue can. It's available at many auto type stores, and dedicated auto paint type stores, and HD. Follow directions to the letter. Once you are down to bare wood, you can do repairs and sand without loading up your paper.

Once the wood has dried, it can be sanded. With veneer you have to be careful not to perforate the veneer. Sand with the grain. If you use a stain, wipe on, and wipe off the excess. Don't let it stand. Once the stain has dried, do not sand the stain. Apply your first coat or two of whatever your topcoat is, and don't sand that either. You can sand in between topcoat applications once you have somewhat of a build of finish. You can use 320x for that.









 







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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Thanks for the help guys. The veneer is solid, all intact. I just wasn't sure it would take up the veneer or not. Sounds like I'll be stripping it tomorrow!!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Black540i said:


> Thanks for the help guys. The veneer is solid, all intact. I just wasn't sure it would take up the veneer or not. Sounds like I'll be stripping it tomorrow!!


 Chemical removers don't really hurt veneers. It's not kept wet long enough to soak the glue loose. Be sure when you strip it the temperature is above 70 degrees. Even potent commercial removers don't do well at low temperatures.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Don't use any power sanders on veneer and be judicious with hand sanding, the piece was perfectly sanded before it was finished, no sense in doing it all again. A mistake many make in refinishing. I would not recommend Waterlox, one of the worst finishes I've ever used for appearance. Practice on samples first.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> Is it safe to chemically strip a veneered cabinet?

Absolutely, that's the correct thing to do. Use a chemical stripper containing methylene chlorides. Follow the directions on the label. Sanding off a finish is the wrong thing to do. Sanding removes any patina as well as not doing a complete job removing the finsih. It leaves finish in the pores of the wood. The residual finish will prevent even absorption of any new stain causing uneven coloring.

Use the stripper and then hand sand with light pressure using first 150 grit then finish with 180 grit.


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Well, I got the top and drawer fronts stripped. They look pretty good. Did some light sanding on it to remove anything left behind as well. Going to finishing stripping it tomorrow night. Probably could have done it tonight but I could sidetracked working on another project. I'll get a build thread of that going soon. 

On another note, does anyone else disagree with using waterlox? It's going to be a bathroom vanity, though care will be taken to note ave standing water on it.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Black540i said:


> Well, I got the top and drawer fronts stripped. They look pretty good. Did some light sanding on it to remove anything left behind as well. Going to finishing stripping it tomorrow night. Probably could have done it tonight but I could sidetracked working on another project. I'll get a build thread of that going soon.
> 
> On another note, does anyone else disagree with using waterlox? It's going to be a bathroom vanity, though care will be taken to note ave standing water on it.


 I don't really disagree with waterlox but I think you could do better. I would rather use a conversion varnish or Epifanes spar varnish and put down a little thicker emulsion. You will really need to grain fill it to get good water protection. The veneer on the dresser was applied with a interior glue and won't take getting very wet.


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> I don't really disagree with waterlox but I think you could do better. I would rather use a conversion varnish or Epifanes spar varnish and put down a little thicker emulsion. You will really need to grain fill it to get good water protection. The veneer on the dresser was applied with a interior glue and won't take getting very wet.


I don't have the means to spray quite yet, so does that make a difference? Would I have to spray Epifanes?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Black540i said:


> I don't have the means to spray quite yet, so does that make a difference? Would I have to spray Epifanes?


No, as far as workability the Epifanes works more like an oil based polyurethane. It dries slow enough you can brush it. I would use a very soft natural brush and brush each coat on as thin as possible with as few strokes as you can. The more you brush it, the more air gets into it and it sets before it flows out which shows brush marks when it dries. It's best to keep moving with it and if you miss a spot, get it on the next coat. 

As far as sprayers, you don't have to have the top of the line for wood finishes. Most compressors will handle a job the size of that dresser and I use a sprayer you can get from Harbor Freight for 20 bucks with one of their 20% off coupons. It's a model #97855


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Oil base products are difficult at best to spray. They are heavy bodied, and run easily. Without the experience, brushing or wiping on the finish would work out better.









 







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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

I planned on going to Rockler tonight to pick up the waterlox, but now I'm questioning that. They don't carry Epifanes that I'm aware of. I would have to order that and I'm not sure how soon I'd be able to get it. Is there anything similar that I might find at Rockler?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Black540i said:


> I planned on going to Rockler tonight to pick up the waterlox, but now I'm questioning that. They don't carry Epifanes that I'm aware of. I would have to order that and I'm not sure how soon I'd be able to get it. Is there anything similar that I might find at Rockler?


 Ok I don't really shop at Rockler so I'm getting this info online and don't have first hand experience with it. From what I can see I would probably use West System 105 Epoxy Resin with the #206 slow hardener. It will give you 40 to 50 minutes of open time to brush the finish on. Since it is an epoxy you will need to mix only what you intend to use. What ever you mix will not be able to keep. Very soon after you get the finish brushed on you will need to wash your paint brush out with acetone. 

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17645&site=ROCKLER

The stuff looks pretty good from the description and is only about 15.00 a quart which is about average for a finish. My fealing is for interior use it may be better than the Epifanes.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

The piece is sure worth refinishing. Is it mahogany or walnut? 

I don't do much stripping but I've been told the liquid that is used at printing companies to clean their cylinders with is excellent on removing finish stripper. Forget the name.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> The piece is sure worth refinishing. Is it mahogany or walnut?
> 
> I don't do much stripping but I've been told the liquid that is used at printing companies to clean their cylinders with is excellent on removing finish stripper. Forget the name.
> 
> ...


Well the piece is certainly worth refinishing. After many years restoring antiques I kind of hate to see it have a sink hole cut in it but it's what he wants. It's getting more and more common to see furniture used for vanities. 

The wood is Honduras Mahogany. 

I have no idea what chemicals they use to clean printing cylinders. I would have thought it was alcohol since it is a ink solvent. The best stripper to use if you have a tank to put it in is Kwick Kleen #125 remover. It's thin as water but it will really cut the finish. When I had a flow over system, the op's dresser I could have it stripped and rinsed in 10 minutes unless I got a drop on my skin. Then you scramble to get out your stripping gloves and wash it off. It burns like someone put a lit cigarette on you.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> Well the piece is certainly worth refinishing. After many years restoring antiques I kind of hate to see it have a sink hole cut in it but it's what he wants. It's getting more and more common to see furniture used for vanities.
> 
> The wood is Honduras Mahogany.
> 
> I have no idea what chemicals they use to clean printing cylinders. I would have thought it was alcohol since it is a ink solvent. The best stripper to use if you have a tank to put it in is Kwick Kleen #125 remover. It's thin as water but it will really cut the finish. When I had a flow over system, the op's dresser I could have it stripped and rinsed in 10 minutes unless I got a drop on my skin. Then you scramble to get out your stripping gloves and wash it off. It burns like someone put a lit cigarette on you.


Okay I must have missed the part about the sink hole. What the deuce are they thinking? Anyone tried to talk them into building something to put the damn sink in and save this piece?

The product used to clean cylinders is not alcohol. It has properties that help lift the residue out of the wood. It makes the stripper come off with less left behind.

Personally I don't do stripping. Most furniture I can build faster. But God love those of you that do?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Sorry guys but the only way to keep this and utilize it in the new house is to make it a vanity. I understand where you are coming from though.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Ugh.

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Al B Thayer said:


> Ugh.
> 
> Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


You can disagree with my decision all you want. It's my piece, my project, and I'm living with it. I appreciate the help but I don't need the childish remarks because you disagree with it.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Black540i said:


> You can disagree with my decision all you want. It's my piece, my project, and I'm living with it. I appreciate the help but I don't need the childish remarks because you disagree with it.


I apologize for bringing it up. It's just that type furniture is getting more and more rare.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Black540i said:


> You can disagree with my decision all you want. It's my piece, my project, and I'm living with it. I appreciate the help but I don't need the childish remarks because you disagree with it.


Oh come on now. Childish?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Epifanes is a high quality marine product. It is sold at most marine stores such as West Marine. I'm surprised no one mentioned that it comes in a can and is as thick as syrup. Epofanes has their own reducer. I use Interlux 333 instead. Regular mineral spirits will not work properly as a thinning agent. It is made for marine application so it will certainly hold up in household use. Although not specifically designed for deck use, many people still use it as a deck coating and walk on it all day long. 
Methylene Chloride work best when the chemical itself is between 75 and 90*F. Also not mentioned is that strippers containing MC are usually 12-15*F lower than the ambient conditions. This means that if it used in 80*F conditions, the stripper itself will only be 65-68* and will not work effectively. If used in 70* conditions, it will be pretty useless. Take the MC and pour some into those Quart or Pint throwaway paint mixing containers. Set the containers in warm but not hot water. MC will actually boil when it is at about 105*. Also stir it a lot - the chemical on the outer portion of the container stays warmer than the inside portion. 
I have successfully run a commercial woodworking and refinishing business for over 25 years. Commercially, we buy the MC in 55 gal drums and pump it into 5 gal metal paint buckets and use an electric heat belt around it to control the temp. This is used with a flow-over stripping system. When properly used MC is great stuff. Be ware of the health hazards. use a fan if you have to and work upwind from the chemical. Keep a clean bucket of fresh water handy to wash or rinse yourself as well as a garden hose. When you get this stuff on your skin it will feel like a lit cigarette is burning you. Eye Protection is a must. A face shield is best.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Black540i said:


> You can disagree with my decision all you want. It's my piece, my project, and I'm living with it. ...............


Black540i has a valid point and I am on his side. A common term for what he is doing is called "repurposing". Just because a piece of furniture is old, does not mean it is either good nor valuable. It is what it is. And it becomes what you want it to become. Wood is just another medium for building. In the last several years my shop has taken on lots of 'repurposing'. These high dollar decorators take their clients to Good Will Stores or Salvation Army and buy what is pretty much throw away junk, come up with an idea and pay me good money for the implementing the project. See link below http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/tony-b-5040/albums/nite-stand-transformation/


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tony B said:


> A common term for what he is doing is called "repurposing". Just because a piece of furniture is old, does not mean it is either good nor valuable. It is what it is. And it becomes what you want it to become.


+1. :yes: Absolutely. Brings back memories of armoires "repurposed" into TV cabinets. Specifically the ones with the big doors. Or, into dry bars. I can't say I have feelings for old stuff, because it makes me money. It makes the client happy. There's not much better advertising than referrals.:yes:









 







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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Thanks Tony, appreciate everything. I have it all stripped right now, just waiting on the next step. Trying to decide if I should stain if before top coating. I'll test it out and see what happens probably.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Stain vs. Top Coat*

wet a rag in lacquer thinner and wipe it on the raw wood.
This is pretty much what it will look like if just top coated without stain. 
The Lac thinner will flash off in a few seconds and be completely gone in a few minutes. 
Mineral spirits doesnt work quite so well on the 'look' but it would be close enough. 
The above will work on most finishes referred to as 'clear'. This will not work on finishes considered "water white". If your choice of finish is water white, then the wood will look almost exactly as it does when dry and no stain. 
Hope that helps.


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## lacman (Mar 13, 2012)

I've been watching this thread develop. That said, it is your right to do anything you want to your piece. As far as Epifanes is concerned you can find vendors online. Jamestown Distributors is one. Classic Boat Connections is who I use. Either one can get you the product in a couple of days. Waterlox is also a great product. I think Woodcraft carries it. Be sure to get the Original version. Good luck with your project and take photos so we can see.


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

So I got the dresser converted to a vanity all finished and installed. Here's the finished product. I ended up finishing with a spar varnish and a couple coats of wax. Looks awesome in the room. Just need to hang the mirror now.


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