# For general woodworking...Driver/Drill or Impact Driver?



## Goldglv (Jun 24, 2009)

I wasn't sure if I should post this in the tool section or not but I wanted your guys opinion on what you guys use for general woodworking.

Building bookcases where you're using screws, entertainment centers...anything where you're screwing into wood....do you use a Driver/Drill or Impact Driver?

I was thinking about picking up an Impact Driver just wasn't sure how much I'd use it....hear so many good things about them and their ease of use. Just wasn't sure if it was overkill for woodworking projects. I hear they are almost essential for deck building....


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## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

I have two Hitachi Impact guns that are the sole workhorse in my shop. The can drive the mightiest lag bolt or the smallest hinge screw. They do it all day and never once complain, or bog down. The only downfall to them is the quick exchange bit system. Have to buy bits for them. I also bought a regular chuck that fits into it and allows me to use any bit I have. For the money you won't find more power. You can get the 14.4 volt reconditioned model for ~$100.00 at reconditioned sales, although right before Christmas they had them on sale for $49. 

We also have about 15 of these units here at work and they all perform without hiccup. 

http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Hitachi_WH14DAF2_14.4V_Cordless_Impact_Driver_(Reconditioned)___i248.aspx


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## raymon (Jun 24, 2009)

I just got the Milwaukee M12 drill/driver after years of using the full size dewalt 18 volt standard drill on everything. I love this tool, and find myself showing it off. It is small and fits right in the hand. So sweet. The battery has lasted so far and it seems powerful enough for any standard shop work (although I could see it bogging on large carriage bolts possibly). It has a standard 3/8 inch chuck to so all my existing bits fit. I haven't found the need for impact on standard woodworking projects - maybe I am the one missing out. 

You should use air guns for brads and fasteners - but these little drills are perfect for small screw work in casing.


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## Ed'sGarage (Aug 16, 2007)

*drill driver vs. impact driver*

The biggest thing I build are bookcases, cabinets and other small projects. I have 2 drill drivers, neither of which are impact and as far as woodworking projects, I've never had a problem driving anything. There have been a few occasions when doing other projects around the house, such as drilling a hole in masonry that I wish I had an impact driver, so I'm sure if you do lag bolts or other larger fasteners or deck building, the impact driver would be a welcomed addition to your shop. I might consider one the next itme one of my drill drivers die. 
E


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

The compact impact driver is the greatest thing since the internet! And no, Al Gore didn't invent the impact driver either! 

I've always had the big heavy DeWalt 18v drill/driver (with hammer setting) when I worked doing more random general construction work. Their power is invaluble especially when boring a handful of large holes in wood, or the occasional anchors in concrete. These days doing mostly cabinetry work I use two 12v Hitachi impact drivers that never quit, and they are almost three years old. Even with the little 12v appearance they will still sink 3" screws into the studs with ease when installing cases to the wall, yet are small enough to easily get inside tight spaces that some of the bigger ones won't...and with less arm fatigue. 

I also regularly arm myself with one of those handy little Bosch 10v right angle drills, a 14v drill/driver with a countersink bit for making lots of holes and of course a corded drill as back-up.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

There was a thread on this not too long ago. I have three impact drivers now, one dewalt, two ryobis, all 18v. The dewalt is more powerful, but for woodworking I use the ryobis more. I use the dewalt for hanging garage doors. You can get the ryobi when they run them on sale for 99.00 with two batteries and a charger. The only thing I use my cordless drills for is to actually drill a hole.
Mike Hawkins


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

I have a couple of impacts, and love them. I have a 18v Milwaukee and a 12v Makita. The Makita is my go to for woodworking, but prefer the Milwaukee for construction/remodeling work. It will go a little farther before the anvil strikes. 

If you are using one a lot, it is a good idea to wear hearing protection.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I can't believe I waited so long for an impact driver. Even my little Hitachi 10.8v is great for wwing type stuff... Get a separate drill later on for holes. :thumbsup:


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Hhhhmmmm*

I too was contemplating buying one before Christmas.
There is a retail store nearby that sells factory refurbished stuff and has them there.

I also noticed that on DIY channel, most of the folks are using them to install cabinets and stuff.


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## Goldglv (Jun 24, 2009)

Ok.....seems like most of you guys love your impact driver! Would an impact driver be overkill for say screwing two pieces of plywood ends together? Would the wood be more likely to split with an impact driver as opposed to a non impact?

Do you guys still use your impact drivers in pine, oak, maple, ect?


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## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

I use mine on anything, you can feel the screw and amount of torque when driving a screw. What I mean by that is you know how much pressure its putting on the screw and can feel when the impact starts to want to take effect. The other thing that helps in the not over driving is it does not rotate as fast as a cordless. Its a constant speed throughout.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I have a question for you guys with the impact drivers. When driving screws into hardwoods, a pilot hole is always necessary. If you're drilling pilot holes, what's the purpose/advantage of an impact driver? If you're not drilling pilot holes, doesn't the wood split? Or the screws snap?


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

mmwood_1 said:


> I have a question for you guys with the impact drivers. When driving screws into hardwoods, a pilot hole is always necessary. If you're drilling pilot holes, what's the purpose/advantage of an impact driver? If you're not drilling pilot holes, doesn't the wood split? Or the screws snap?


I still drill pilot holes with a regular drill driver first in hardwoods, but as you probably know your pilot holes in hardwoods is considerably smaller than your screw so that there is still good contact between the thread and the wood, with that in mind the impact driver quickly drives the screw in with a consistent torque, but at the first sound of the ratcheting mechinism getting a little louder, than I know I'm snug. I think what I like best about these drivers is that you can either feather a screw in with a few blips of the trigger, or just bury the screw until the head comes out the other side of the board without the bit tip ever slipping out.

Anyone who's ever screwed down a lot Ipe or Mahogany decking with stainless steel screws and a regular drill/driver knows that when (and you will) strip out a head with only a quarter of an inch left sticking out of the board, it will cause you to unleash curse words into the air that you never even knew existed. The impact driver is great for applications involving soft steel screws and hard woods.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I have both drill driver and impact driver. The impact driver was purchased for a specific job where I was going to drill a lot of holes in brick and concrete. Other than that use it stays on the shelf unless by some rate circumstance my other drills run out of batteries.

George


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> I have both drill driver and impact driver. The impact driver was purchased for a specific job where I was going to drill a lot of holes in brick and concrete. Other than that use it stays on the shelf unless by some rate circumstance my other drills run out of batteries.
> 
> George


George, I think you're refering to a hammer drill. Very different from an impact driver, but a hammer drill is also worth having around for the few times I need to bore into masonary.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*YUP they are very different especially in size*

The hammer drill has a typical chuck, the impact drivers have the hex collet.
Here a list:http://www.toolcritic.com/cordless-impact-drivers.html 
BTW I have the Dewalt 18V Amazon.com: DEWALT DC827KL 18-Volt 1/4-inch Lithium Ion Impact Driver Kit with NANO Technology: Home Improvement
and a Makita 10.8 Amazon.com: Makita LCT203W 10.8-Volt Compact Lithium-Ion Two-Piece Combo Kit: Home Improvement
Very handy small size for inside cabinets and such.:thumbsup: bill


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## Goldglv (Jun 24, 2009)

joesdad said:


> I still drill pilot holes with a regular drill driver first in hardwoods, but as you probably know your pilot holes in hardwoods is considerably smaller than your screw so that there is still good contact between the thread and the wood, with that in mind the impact driver quickly drives the screw in with a consistent torque, but at the first sound of the ratcheting mechinism getting a little louder, than I know I'm snug. I think what I like best about these drivers is that you can either feather a screw in with a few blips of the trigger, or just bury the screw until the head comes out the other side of the board without the bit tip ever slipping out.
> 
> Anyone who's ever screwed down a lot Ipe or Mahogany decking with stainless steel screws and a regular drill/driver knows that when (and you will) strip out a head with only a quarter of an inch left sticking out of the board, it will cause you to unleash curse words into the air that you never even knew existed. The impact driver is great for applications involving soft steel screws and hard woods.


Sorry, still confused on this one.....are you saying you DO NOT need to drill pilot holes when using an Impact Driver?


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Drill, drill, drill !!!!!!!!!!*

Sorry bout that, I am at my desk as I type this programming a 6 axis horizontal CNC mill to machine an oilfield drill bit. 

I got alittle carried away.


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

Goldglv said:


> Sorry, still confused on this one.....are you saying you DO NOT need to drill pilot holes when using an Impact Driver?


Yes, you still would want to drill pilot holes. The impact drivers will spilt the end of a board just the same as regualr drill driver.

I mentioned that if I have _a lot_ of pilot holes to be drilled I will use my regular drill for the holes, and the impact to fasten the screw...Why two drills? in my opinion the impact driver is not that great for drilling holes because of the ratcheting mechanism which is better for driving screws, nuts etc.


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

> Yes, you still would want to drill pilot holes. The impact drivers will spilt the end of a board just the same as regualr drill driver.


Another option is to use screws designed so that you don't have to drill a pilot hole. Spax, and numerous other manufactures, have high-quality fasteners which "self-drill" and work exceptionally well.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

mwhafner said:


> Another option is to use screws designed so that you don't have to drill a pilot hole. Spax, and numerous other manufactures, have high-quality fasteners which "self-drill" and work exceptionally well.


Into oak? Or maple? No splitting or screws snapping? No offense, but I'd have to see it to believe it.


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

mmwood_1 said:


> Into oak? Or maple? No splitting or screws snapping? No offense, but I'd have to see it to believe it.


I've used the Spax screws from McFeelys and I will say they are nice because they do auger out material as the screw goes down, and I would use them in non critical applications like jigs and shop cabinets, but there's no way I'd try to drive one into hardwood that I've just spent a lot of time milling and sanding without being afraid of splitting or snapping off, especially on an end. 

We have to remember it all depends on what your project is, those of us who build cabinets and furniture are only using screws in areas that are not visible, and anywhere I'm using maple, cherry, oak etc. it's usually only getting fastened with glue and some pin nails.


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

> Into oak? Or maple? No splitting or screws snapping? No offense, but I'd have to see it to believe it.


Absolutely. I have been using them for a couple years now, and can't remember breaking one and no splits to date. I do occasionally use a countersink if I close to the edge, but never pre-drill. 

My 85 year old home is largely framed in oak. It is so hard that a framing nailer is useless, and I can't tell you how many standard screws I have broken in studs over the years. I installed a new door last weekend and drove 12 - 3 1/4" screws for the frame-side of the hinges. My 12v Makita wouldn't quite do the job, so I had to switch to the 18v Milwaukee. I broke one impact-rated bit, but not the screws.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I don't think this should be an "Either OR" conversation, as much as it should be you need them all! Then again, I horde tools. 

I bought a cordless impact last year, and I don't know how I lived without it. I also bought a 12 volt Milwaukee pocket driver. I use that the most for my wood working because its small and light. Those > 18V cordless drills are great for construction and big stuff, but suck for puttings screws in small hinges. ( better than corded drills, but still too bulky, heavy and awkward)

So here's what we need (cordless)
1. >14 V drill
2. >14 V Impact
3. < 12 V pocket driver


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

joesdad said:


> George, I think you're refering to a hammer drill. Very different from an impact driver, but a hammer drill is also worth having around for the few times I need to bore into masonary.


Sorry, guess I am not aware of what an impact driver is. Just thought it was another name for a hammer drill.

George


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## woodman42 (Aug 6, 2007)

You cannot go wrong with an impact driver. I use both on every project. I usually have two guns chucked up, one drill/driver with counter sink bit and the impact with my square bit for driving screws.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*YUP, but*

I use 3 drills: pilot hole, countersink, and a driver. I've done this since the '80's when Kmart brought out their 7.2 volt "professional" cordless drills I still have 2 that work! Then I went to Makita's 9.6 volt, then to Dewalts 18 volt, and in addition to those giants I love the Makita 10.6 volt compacts. You can't have too many cordless drills, batteries, tools, ammo or horsepower. Just use what you need at the moment! :thumbsup: bill


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

I've had limited experience with the impact driver. I tried out a Dewalt XRP 18v impact, but it was not well suited to the application, and was *less powerful* than the 18v drill. (Nothing wrong with the tool, as is would drive screws like crazy.)

What experience have you guys had with bit slippage/washout as compared to a traditional drill now that you've used it for awhile?


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> You can't have too many cordless drills, batteries, tools, ammo or horsepower.


I agree, and just when I think I have too many tools, I only have to look in the back at my buddy's E450 box truck. Two things about him, he's super anal and organized and he has to buy everything in twos, so when you open the back doors to his truck it feels like you are looking down the center aisle of the tool section of one of the big home centers...he may need therapy, but he's a hell of a carpenter.

Old Skhool...it was probably limited because the impact guns are not meant for drilling holes as much as a regular driver do to the intermitent ratcheting motion vs. a continous motion of a drill/driver.


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

joesdad said:


> Old Skhool...it was probably limited because the impact guns are not meant for drilling holes as much as a regular driver do to the intermitent ratcheting motion vs. a continous motion of a drill/driver.


It was being used on a lightweight 5th wheel that didn't come with electric jacks. I rigged up an adapter and my 14.4v Makita would raise and lower the trailer, but strained more than I wanted. So I went down to get an 18V xrp Dewalt which was rated as the most powerful drill at the time, and the tool salesman talked me into the impact. Trouble was that there was too much "play" in the lifting mechanism, and all it seemed to do was vibrate everything, and didn't work at all. Returned and got the drill and it worked fine for about 2 years before the gears stripped in the drill. Back to hand cranking.:yes:


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## JavaGeek (Feb 2, 2010)

*My Impact Driver was one of my best purchases ever!*

I am going to join the chorus of people praising their impact driver. 

At one point, I wasn't sure if I needed one, but I took the plunge and my only regret was not doing it a LOT sooner. 

I bought a cheap Craftsman 19.2V impact driver for something like $70 (probably the same as the Ryobi one at Home Despot). It has worked quite well for woodworking, mounting things to the wall. It's extremely powerful and drives screws perfectly, as deep as I want with no stripping. 

As others have pointed out, it is worth the price alone to have a drill and a driver as a second tool. It is also noticeably lighter than simply buying a 2nd drill. 

The Craftsman NEXTEC is pretty exciting as it's a lot smaller and more convenient. Haven't actually tried it, though. There are other higher-grade compact impact drivers, but they are significantly more expensive.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I purchased a Hitachi 10.8/12 volt impact on sale from Reconditioned Sales ($72 w/ two batteries) and just got it this week. I used it yesterday to drive 3" deck screws into a lumber rack I was building using 2x4's. It's a big improvement over using my 18v driver/drill. It ran those screws right in without pilot holes. I realize this was just pine, but I was still impressed. I drove a couple dozen screws and the battery was still going strong. And the unit is much easier to handle as it's so small.

Joe's Dad is right - it will sink those screw heads until they come out the other side of the board (well, maybe a little bit of an exageration!). I got some impact ready Phillips bits and they seem to stay in the screw better than with a regular driver, too.

I'm sold!

Bill


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## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

I bought the Milwaukee 18V drill impact driver combo kit last fall for $200 and really like them. My Dewalt 18V drill batteries weren't holding a charge well anymore. The impact driver feels a lot more powerful for driving screws and lag bolts than a drill does and I have found less stripping on the heads. Last Fall I also started playing with a Kreg pocket hole jig and did find that with the impact driver I tended to over drive the pocket screws, but that might just be that without the ability to see the screw in the hole and with so much effective power I just can't tell when to stop as well.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

*A whole new way to screw!*



I know I am reviving an old thread but too bad. I just got an impact driver and I feel like I have rediscovered the wheel. Man has walked on the moon. I've taken a knife and sliced bread for the first time. What a great tool. Whoever invented this should get an international attaboy. 

Ok, so here's how I really feel. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: of :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
4/4 thumbs up. It'll be real nice having my drill set for pre-drilling and my impact for screwing. Gonna save time and be fun.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Costco had these*












$150.00 for the pair...10.8 volts,:thumbsup: $180.00 at Home Depot:thumbdown:


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## Jason (Mar 30, 2010)

I swear by Makita Lithium Ion Drills and Impact Drivers. An impact driver is indispensable, and once you use one you will wonder why you waited so long to get one. 
I use an impact driver for doing just about everything. I use stainless steel screws alot and find that a regular drill/driver can strip these out in a hurry, but the impact driver doesn't. 
You should definitely own both, you will be glad you did.

Edit: I own the Makita 18 volt Lithium Ion kit, but 14.4 volt works for 90% of projects IMO. Also, the 10.8 V mentioned above is a great drill as well. It's lightweight, packs a mighty punch and fits nicely in tight spaces.


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