# Adjustable Height Planer Extension Table (Woodmaster)



## boardmaker (Nov 3, 2009)

I've been getting more and more into making molding with my woodmaster 718. I built a bedboard that is 6 feet long that goes through the planer. I have roller stands that I use to help feed into the molder. The last job I did was for 16' molding. I realized very quickly that I would need to make adjustable height extension tables asap. I would like to make 2 extension tables-infeed and outfeed. Have any of you guys made anything like this? They need to be adjustable because on a woodmaster the table moves and the head is stationary. Woodmaster sells them, but they are pricey. Has anyone made anything like this? I'm fishing for ideas. You might see this post in some other locations as well.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*think outside the box ..... store*

Not really :no:
Home Depot has these 12 volt jacks which you can wire to a remote switch near the planer to raise and lower them as needed. 
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...99782-2&srccode=cii_10043468&locStoreNum=2739


manual jacks like this could be easily adjusted if mounted on a box platform: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ates-_-Shopzilla-_-Auto Repair>Jacks-_-145013

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCYCLE-...K-LIFTS-ATV-JACKS-HD-/150694442544#vi-content


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

*If you are willing to make it.....*

Norm from the New Yankee Workshop notworthy made an adjustable roller stand on one of his episodes. I think this will fit the bill perfectly for you, and you can make it fairly cheaply.:thumbsup:

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0603

Hope this helps.

Fabian


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## boardmaker (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks for the replies.

Woodnthings - Those are some reasonably priced jacks. Not sure if I'm gonna use one for this, but I have a few other ideas for one of those.

Fabian - I like your Norm link. That may be just what I need. I couldn't really see what Norm did, but I could gather ideas. Do you know what Norm did as far as cranking it up or down? Threaded Rod? I never caught that episode.

Lucas


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Thanks Bill,didn't know about that 12v scizzor.

To OP....just spitballin and in general a FYI.One of the neat things about threads....in this instance a threaded top on an adj stand....is:

Thread pitches are based on an "inch" scale.So,lets say you had a thread pitch of 16TPI....it would take 16 revolutions to make a one inch change.....if you're using your planer/moulder and making adj to infeed or outfeed height,you can dial in a known height change by spinning it one or more turns.On a 16TPI one revolution would be 1/16"....half turn would be 1/32".BW


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

boardmaker said:


> Fabian - I like your Norm link. That may be just what I need. I couldn't really see what Norm did, but I could gather ideas. Do you know what Norm did as far as cranking it up or down? Threaded Rod? I never caught that episode.
> 
> Lucas


I have seen that episode only once, but I do know he uses some sort of threaded rod, and the actual cranking handle is made by him by inserting a nut into the wood, and then going from there. The actual adjustable riser was something like 10" by 14", and then you attach the table top and mobile base to that.

One note about threaded rod.... From what I gathered on this forum, if you want to have the threaded rod last, you should use a rod with ACME threads. The standard threaded rod at the big box stores will wear out over time.... How fast and how much, I have no idea, but if you are taking the time to build it, you might as well make sure that it will last. Here is a link to a site that sells it, and the nuts that go with it.

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/ca...&results_per_page=20&order_by=&search_params=

IF you do end up building this, post pics of your build.... It is always fun to see the progress of a job

Hope this helps

Fabian


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*for those who work in decimals*

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pr...egory_id/15941/product_name/Acme+Threaded+Rod

A 1/2" x 10 TPI will give 1" change in 10 revs. or 1/10 per 360 degree turn of the crank. Nifty! 
Standard threaded rod, not Acme, comes in 3/4" x 10 TPI and will probably "never wear out" .....you can quote me .... :laughing: bill

BTW the only problem I see with a crank that's 6 feet away from the planer is...it's 6 feet away from the planer. I'd like something on a remote switch like a step motor that moves up or down a fixed increment for every bump. Any engineers have a cheap solution?

this is one I'd recommend: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1761-R&catname=


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## boardmaker (Nov 3, 2009)

BWSmith said:


> Thanks Bill,didn't know about that 12v scizzor.
> 
> To OP....just spitballin and in general a FYI.One of the neat things about threads....in this instance a threaded top on an adj stand....is:
> 
> Thread pitches are based on an "inch" scale.So,lets say you had a thread pitch of 16TPI....it would take 16 revolutions to make a one inch change.....if you're using your planer/moulder and making adj to infeed or outfeed height,you can dial in a known height change by spinning it one or more turns.On a 16TPI one revolution would be 1/16"....half turn would be 1/32".BW



BW-That's exactly what I was thinking. That's the same ratio as my woodmaster also. 

Now, I already have a fair amount of threaded rod, so now I'm second guessing using it and getting acme rod. But, I really do not plan on adjusting it to much so...

I really appreciate everyones help with this. BTW, woodnthings, I'll be getting my exercise I guess.


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## Roger Newby (May 26, 2009)

http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=&byKeyword=yes&search=acme
Here's a good source for Acme threaded rod and nuts. They also have several linear actuators that might be adapted to your project.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Just some rambling......

We call'm Capstan wheels.Its used on fr rifle rests as seen in benchrest.Theres an outer shaft.....and then a well fitted inner shaft that gets set to rough height manually.Then inside that is a threaded part that has the wheel on it.Looks like a sailboat or ships wheel.Only in this case instead of being in the vert position its flat/horiz.

In use,you set the rough measure by lifting and locking the outer and 1st inner......then use capstan to set the fine adj.Its a more efficient use of the threaded part.

So,I guess what I'm getting at is you may want to have "rough" and fine adj.And this is sort of irrespective of whatever system you use.

And if you want a real brain teaser,haha.....the use of a sliding/roller bearing wedge style adj on infeed and outfeed can potentially be tied in with planer/moulder's table.Oh,and theres always cam style adjustment....utilizing lever and detents.BW


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Oh yeah,just thought of another method.....maybe a touch Fred Flinstone but hey,it'll work......



I'd take a pic of one but all of ours are out on the job.....google an adj scaffold leg.Its....I believe a 1 1/4" D.,Acme thread.....Its a part that goes in the bttm of a masons scaffold to adj for uneven ground.With an attendant,albeit large,"wing nut" of sorts.In your case it would be stuck in the top of a stand.It has a welded on plate(foot,if used in scaffold)about 6" square.It even has four holes @corners pre-drilled,this you could affix any kind of top(rollers?).

You'd fab up the appropriate diam tubing stand and just put this in the top....quick measure of TPI will give you a reference height adj for wingnut.Buy them used at a local rental joint.Best,BW


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

BWSmith said:


> Just some rambling......
> 
> We call'm Capstan wheels.Its used on fr rifle rests as seen in benchrest.....
> 
> BW


Like this from here: http://www.basspro.com/Caldwell-Handy-Rest-Shooting-Rest/product/95075/77519?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I had an older Oliver 24" planer with moving bottom. I attached one end of the outfeed table to the planer bed and the other was on an adjustable leg. The leg had a sliding shaft with holes, just pull the pin and adjust the height. The outfeed table doesn't have to be exactly even with the bed, just close enough to catch the stock and not higher than the bed. You can have several rows of holes on a wide shaft next to each other which will allow adjustments as fine as you need. 

You could also have an adjustable slot, bolt and wingnut, in the leg which would allow infinite adjustment. I have something similar but lighter duty on my jointer.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Hey Bill,here's some of the.....oh how you say,more exotic fr rests,haha.BW

http://www.freewebs.com/precisionrifle/accuracyarticles.htm


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