# top side of box smaller than bottom



## cow3man3 (May 26, 2010)

I want the top to taper in about 10d
1/2 by 4" box with no bottom 1/2 being thickness and 4" widith
I've made this same box years ago
but this old brain just don't come to mind how it was then
two side are easy but what to do with the other sides

any help will be nice
cow3man3:laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cow3man3 said:


> I want the top to taper in about 10d
> 1/2 by 4" box with no bottom 1/2 being thickness and 4" widith
> I've made this same box years ago
> but this old brain just don't come to mind how it was then
> ...



*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

Your description is vague to me. What's a 10d? It might help to give the height, top size, and bottom size. Maybe my meds kicked in, but I just don't understand what you described.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

I completely agree w/ cabinetman ... I'm sure YOU know what you're talking about but you need to take another stab at helping US know what you're talking about.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

cow3man3 said:


> I want the top to taper in about 10d
> 1/2 by 4" box with no bottom 1/2 being thickness and 4" widith
> I've made this same box years ago
> but this old brain just don't come to mind how it was then
> ...


pyramidal?


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

cow3man3,
I'm guessing 10d is degrees maybe yeah?

In either case if you have a TS or compound miter you can rip the desired 10 degree of miter on the bottom of 4 test pieces of pre-dimensioned stock. 

Use the tongue and blade of a framing square, (or make a confined squared right angle area on your WB) to slide 2 dimensioned sections to butt at their tops. Read the distance off the squares inside corner, mark the top and strike a line from the bottom to the mark on both pieces then cut.

Once cut slide the 2 pieces back along the square the new and correct vertical miter/bevel will be open on the face but if the miter is correct write it down for future ref. If not make 1/2 or 1 degree adjustments till the stock sits at 10d and the miter is right.

If the miter is right I'd start the bevel at 3 degrees for each side and continue with small incremental adjustments till the miter/bevel of both pieces mate. Once done write it down for future use.

Once you have the miter/bevel combination the rest should fall into place for you.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

This will give you the miter and bevel for any spring angle. 

Scroll down to the calculator.

http://www.altereagle.com/4_How_to_insta.html


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## cow3man3 (May 26, 2010)

boy it's been a long time since ask question to wood working forum
10-d I though everybody would know that I was talking about degrees well that's find to know that you don't know what d stand for will have to be more plan with my question
Now lets try this again I want the top to be 10 degrees to the inside I'm using 1inch thick by 4 inches wide they are twenty inch long want the bottom 1 inch thick to set flat but have 10 degree up the four inch side to the top 1 inch
as best as I can remmber there is a compound cut to make the 1 inch thick ends to match up right
thanks to Ghdrah will try this
and to Mdntrdr for the altereagler web site
will let you know went I get it work out
thanks to all
cow3man3


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

If I'm understanding you corectly.......

Your miter cut would be 9.85deg.

Your bevel cut would be 44.14deg. :yes:


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## cow3man3 (May 26, 2010)

well the miter saw was not close enought so went with the radical arm and had better holding of the wood
it took three times before it all came together
had to watch the wood stops and hold the board just so so but in the end we have and ten deg. inside box at the top or ten deg. at the bottom
thanks to all
cow3man3


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