# car wax on table?



## david51st (Oct 29, 2008)

Hello All, 

I have an antique dinning table with a top that could not be saved. I built a table out of the Stickley standard 5/4 quarter sewn white oak. This table will be lived on by my wife, 2 young children and myself. I have already applied 4 coats of Varathane oil poly over two coats of stain. (I wish I had found your forum first, so I hope I did the correct thing so far.) It look great but there are a few minor dust spots and bubbles. Even if I sand again and apply a 5thh coat I figure this will happen again. I have been reading about people who let the last coat of poly cure for 5 days, then wet sand their table with a 3000 grit auto body paper and then apply rubbing compound and auto wax and to sanded poly and buff. Is this at all a good idea? does the wax turn white with heat or water? Can I, or should I apply a coat of wax to a dinning table. My kids will be doing homework, art work and eating off of this table 3 hrs a day. I am hoping to come up with the best finish to withstand that use. If it is the way to go can you provide me a brand name that worked for you in the past? Thanks in advance for your advice and help. Switch to full edit form​


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## user4178 (Apr 18, 2008)

The last thing I would do is put any kind of wax on it. If it isn't too bad I would just leave it as is, if you can't live with it, then 220 paper it lightly and recoat it again. It's hard for me to tell how your finish turned out without being able to see and feel it. Remember, if the table gets heavy use it will wear smooth. You should see my computer desk where the mouse is, it's as smooth as glass now. I refinished the desk with poly several years ago, it's a old oak desk. I've refinished alot of antique furniture over the years.


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## smitty1967 (Feb 24, 2008)

Woodchuck1957 said:


> The last thing I would do is put any kind of wax on it.


ditto....and on the final couple of coats, instead of sanding, try triple or 4-ought (that's 3 or 4 zeroes) steel wool, or even look for some scotchbrite abrasive in a very fine grit (yes, they make scotchbrite in different grits, too.) 

steel wool or scotchbrite help you accomplish what you're after (slightly roughing the last coat of poly before applying the next one) without all the trouble of marks and direction left by sandpaper....at least I've found this to be the case in my projects. I'll never go back to sandpaper between coats.

smitty


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

It takes varnish about thirty days to cure. Wait until it has cured and then sant with progressively finer grits pf paper until it is the way you want. I agree with Woodchuck wax is an ongoing maintenace schedule for very little,if any, protection.

Regards

Jerry


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

If you're not happy with the finish, you could try another coat of your own wiping finish by thinning 75% oil base varnish or oil base polyurethane and 25% naptha. First sand with the grain with 320x - 400x silicon carbide sandpaper wet-or-dry, using water. When all the nibs and imperfections are smooth, wipe dry. You can remove any remaining debris with a slightly damp rag with naptha. Don't use a tack rag.

Use a clean lint free rag, like "T" shirt material. Place the table on its side so the top is vertical. Don't shake the mix, just stir slowly. Wipe on the finish in smooth even strokes. With the table surface vertical, less dust will land on the wet surface. When dry, that finish may be suitable.

I also vote for no wax. You could take your existing finish and wet sand to higher grits like 1800x to 2000x and use a smooth pumice then rottenstone to bring up a luster. You could also use automotive rubbing compounds that come in degrees of smooth to rough.


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