# Help me with baseboard moulding returns



## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

I've got some new baseboard moulding to install in my house but I'm not sure what to do in the places where it will end without running into something. I've made up samples of the different kinds of returns that I can think of, and the attached picture shows the one I like best.

The return piece is cut from the top edge of the moulding. I think it will look good to have the curved profile on the end.

The trouble is, I only have a regular miter saw and can't do the angled cut on the main part of the baseboard. The sample in the picture was done with a jigsaw, which isn't that accurate.

Do I need to buy a compound miter saw? I know they can cut the angle I need, but can I also limit the depth of the cut?

Or is there a less expensive way to do what I want?


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Why don't you cut from point all the way through the main piece on a 45° and cut the piece to fit the other way on a 45°, you will have the same look.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jiju1943 said:


> Why don't you cut from point all the way through the main piece on a 45° and cut the piece to fit the other way on a 45°, you will have the same look.


*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

What jiju is describing is also called "self edging". It's pretty simple, as you create a finished look to the moulding. It's a method of cutting a 45° at the end of the moulding. Do this with the waste piece having extra length. Then take the waste piece and cut a 45°, and then cut it off the thickness of the moulding, or for crown or protruding mouldings with spring angles, that depth. When assembled, it will look like this.

Or, you could with some mouldings just cut a 22½°, as an end. Here is a short tutorial on ending baseboards:
http://www.finishcarpentryhelp.com/baseboard-return.html












 









.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*hmmmm*



jiju1943 said:


> Why don't you cut from point all the way through the main piece on a 45° and cut the piece to fit the other way on a 45°, you will have the same look.


Jim, I can see why he might want the "look" of the photo, a smaller picture frame wrapping around the tall base. It looks to me like 2 stopped cuts are required and the rest needs to be cut by hand. I suppose a router jig could be made, rights and lefts, to accomplish the same look. Possibly the same for a smaller circ saw with a fine tooth blade. I don't know about a miter saw being able to precisely stop short of the intersection...a good eye and hand coordination would be required. 

I also think a bevel cut at 45 degrees rather than a miter cut, like a picture frame, would accomplish a similar look. 
Maybe that's what you and C-man are suggesting and it won't get through my foggy brain, I donno?  bill


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

"I also think a bevel cut at 45 degrees rather than a miter cut, like a picture frame, would accomplish a similar look. "

I have seen this used even when the molding is butted against a stop. It provides a finished look and is much easier to cut.

George


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Maybe that's what you and C-man are suggesting and it won't not get through my foggy brain, I donno?  bill



It does sound confusing but it's really very simple. Think of ending the moulding as if it was to turn a corner, and go for a run. But, it gets cut off to stop to the wall. It's a very small piece. That's why I recommended to cut the return from a longer waste piece, so it can be handled safely.












 









.


----------



## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I've always called the ending cut a "mitered return". It can be a simple 45 or a combination of bevels.


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I may be wrong but I don't think he wants a return cut into the wall. The way I understand it is, if you were to cut the main piece of base like making the corner of a picture frame, as George said, then make the short cut like it dies into the floor not the wall. I am just not good at explaining things. The base will just make a 90° turn down to the floor. Does this make sense?


----------



## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

Maybe a visual would help...

1. Mitred corners - no profile to the return 

2. Bevelled Return - Profiled return, but the sawcut is visible

3. Combination - Return is profiled, Cut nearly invisible, but more work.

Clearly, the OP wants the 3rd look, and if I needed to do this, I'd make the initial cuts using a stop block on a mitre saw, then finish with a hand saw. (likely a pull saw) There likely would not be a router bit capable of getting a good inside corner, so that method isn't being considered.

Good luck on your project.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*No 3. is what I thought?*

But I donno? :blink: bill


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I think #3 was the way Paul was trying to do it but I was trying to explain #2 as it would be easier and still look exactly the same way as #3. 

Thanks jl for the drawings, I appreciate you.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Not so Jim!*

No. 2 would have the long grain turn the corner in the miter.
I personally don't like that.
No. 3 The long grain butts in to small molding ending abruptly.
I like this better since it carries the horizontal line of the floor through. The no. 2 adds another design element ..if it's NOT painted and you have a stained wood grain.
Painted it doesn't make any difference.  bill


----------



## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

What you are describing is the same process as making a mitered stair tread return. A jigsaw will not be accurate enough to do it well. If you are proficient with handtools it can be done with a knife line and a handsaw. If not a sliding chopsaw or radial armsaw is a good option. The finial part of the cut will need to be done with a handsaw. If you want a curved look it can also be done with a router and a template made of mdf.


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> No. 2 would have the long grain turn the corner in the miter.
> I personally don't like that.
> No. 3 The long grain butts in to small molding ending abruptly.
> I like this better since it carries the horizontal line of the floor through. The no. 2 adds another design element ..if it's NOT painted and you have a stained wood grain.
> Painted it doesn't make any difference.  bill


You are right Bill, I wasn't thinking about the grain, my mind was running toward paint but that was an assumption and you know what that does.


----------



## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks for all the comments!

Yes, it's No. 3 that I've got in mind. It's like a 90 degree return into the floor, but with the long grain continuing up to the profiled part.

I'll try doing a sample using a knife and handsaw and see how well that works.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*For something simple*

Why not just rip the upper piece off to start with, miter it and reattach it. You can off set it, making a step or make it flush either way. Yeah, you'll have a glue line, but that beats all the stopping and hand cuting...unless of course you're into that!  
:laughing: bill


----------



## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

^ Hmm, perhaps I am making this more complicated than it needs to be.

I'll make up a sample that way too.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

jiju1943 said:


> I may be wrong but I don't think he wants a return cut into the wall. The way I understand it is, if you were to cut the main piece of base like making the corner of a picture frame, as George said, then make the short cut like it dies into the floor not the wall. I am just not good at explaining things. The base will just make a 90° turn down to the floor. Does this make sense?


Yes. But then I know what you are trying to say.

If I was at my daughters house in Atlanta I would take a pictue.

George


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> No. 2 would have the long grain turn the corner in the miter.
> I personally don't like that.
> No. 3 The long grain butts in to small molding ending abruptly.
> I like this better since it carries the horizontal line of the floor through. The no. 2 adds another design element ..if it's NOT painted and you have a stained wood grain.
> Painted it doesn't make any difference.  bill


How it looks will depend upon your taste and how it is to be finished.

If it is to be painted then a person who makes accurate cuts, is good with spackling and does a good paint job with make a finish that you cannot tell the difference.

G


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Paul250 said:


> Thanks for all the comments!
> 
> Yes, it's No. 3 that I've got in mind. It's like a 90 degree return into the floor, but with the long grain continuing up to the profiled part.
> I'll try doing a sample using a knife and handsaw and see how well that works.
> ...


George, Probably not painted based on the photo and no comments to the contrary.  bill


----------



## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

Yes, the baseboards are oak, so there will be no spackle or paint involved!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Trim like baseboards that stop and needing a return become more obvious when a treatment other than a "self edge" is applied. The least attention drawn to it the better. 












 









.


----------



## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Trim like baseboards that stop and needing a return become more obvious when a treatment other than a "self edge" is applied. The least attention drawn to it the better.


I see. Perhaps I would be better off just keeping it simple.

One more issue: the outside edge of the self-return could be a bit sharp. Should I just take a file to that and round it off a little?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Paul250 said:


> I see. Perhaps I would be better off just keeping it simple.
> 
> One more issue: the outside edge of the self-return could be a bit sharp. Should I just take a file to that and round it off a little?


I would just use sandpaper. That would be easier than a file in keeping off flat strokes, and generating a smooth edge.












 









.


----------

