# Fishing Pole Rack Plans



## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

I am looking for some decent plans on a fishing pole storage rack. The rack style I am looking for is in the form of a lazy susan. I found a link but they want me to subscribe to something so I left. I would like it to be able to hold about 18 to 20 rods. I currently have 11 so maybe not so many. I think I can get away with having a base of about 24" and I would like the height to be at 24" give or take a bit.

I know what I want and need to just build it but would really prefer to go by some plans and be done with it. The laziness has consumed me.


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## FishFactory (Nov 8, 2013)

I did one for the ceiling in my man cave. Worked very well. I store around 30 rods plus a wall of shelving for extra baits supplies and when I unload my boat at the end of the season. Works nice because I can tinker with everything throughout the winter and get an inventory of what I need to replace. I can take a picture if you would like.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Sketch out what you want it to look out. Then put some dimensions on it and you have a plan. You might try Rockler for the center bearing.

The problem with using just a standard lazy Susan bearing is that with the tall rods the entire ensemble must be resistant to tiping. 

George


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

My work network won't let me watch this one, but it says it's an instructional video on YouTube.





Not a good step-by-step, but you get the idea.
http://www.vyak.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9176

This kid's not the safest back yard builder, but again, gives you ideas.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

I have been looking and thinking about this. I'm gonna go about this on my own.

I have prerequisites:
1- Must hold 18 rods
2- Should be sturdy enough to move around
3- Must hold rods securely
4- Should look good

I plan to use two types of wood for the base and top plate. I am in the process of getting the dimensions of the wood right so it suits my taste. I'm thinking some narrow strips with some wider ones. Also cherry and oak for looks. The base will be 24" diameter and the top at 20" to allow the rods to lean in for stability. I have not figured out a suitable "locking" method that I will like. I'm leaning towards brass screws with 12ga copper wire in the form of a flip-up gate. For the pillars that join the top and bottom, I think I will use a piece of oak and cut out 3 square 'dowels' and have them spaced apart far enough that the unit doesn't twist. The height will be either 30 or 36". I had originally wanted a lazy susan style base but will be using 4 small swivel casters. This will let me not only rotate it but also move it around easily. Assembly will be with wood screws and Titebond II. Finishing will be with polyurethane.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

bigone5500 said:


> I have been looking and thinking about this. I'm gonna go about this on my own.
> 
> I have prerequisites:
> 1- Must hold 18 rods
> ...


Now that you have stopped and thought, it seems you have the project pretty well under conceptual control. Good luch with the build.

George


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

GeorgeC said:


> Now that you have stopped and thought, it seems you have the project pretty well under conceptual control. Good luch with the build.
> 
> George


I just hope I have conceptual control over the table saw and drill press...

I found a pdf of a 360 degree protractor that is going to aid me in placing the rod handle 'pockets' at the correct spacing. I'll attach it with some scotch tape and use a straight edge to draw my lines. I'll be using a 1 3/4" forstner bit to bore pockets at 3/4" deep.

I've been thinking about the types of wood to use. In order to keep this thing at low cost, I will not be using any cherry or oak but will go with the cheap and knot filled pine boards. Once in a while the home depot gets boards that are straight.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

The base is under construction. I used 5 1x6 pine boards cut to 24 1/4 long then trued the edges by cutting them on the table saw. I will drill the pocket holes tomorrow, apply Titebond II, screw them together, and allow to dry.

I suppose this is really a test to see if it will turn out well. If it doesn't, then I will scrap it and come up with another plan. I may have to use thicker wood if the 1x6 boards want to deform too easily.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

bigone5500 said:


> I'll be using a 1 3/4" forstner bit to bore pockets at 3/4" deep.


What idiot would bore 3/4" deep pockets in 1x6 boards???


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Search the 'Net and you can find a ton of plans for rod racks. I had a couple of plans saved but a computer crash lost them. Will the rods have the reels on them or will the reels be stored separately?


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Pineknot_86 said:


> Search the 'Net and you can find a ton of plans for rod racks. I had a couple of plans saved but a computer crash lost them. Will the rods have the reels on them or will the reels be stored separately?


My hopes are that the reels will be fine while on the rods. 

I got the bottom half just about complete. I am satisfied to a point with the results. I used wood that has been outside for quite some time. There was slight warpage but the clamping alleviated some if it. After it was dry, I ran the sander over the top to smooth it out and fix the areas where the boards joined that were not flush. 

Here are some photos.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Just a few more photos...

I use a compass I bought at a flea market years ago to draw large circles. It has the name Bruning on the case and looks to be for drafting. Anyone ever seen one? I can't find much info on it.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Just about done. This is a mock up just to see what it looks like with the rods in place.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

I'm not happy with the outcome of the topper. The t-nut just comes right out of the wood. I also decided to go with hook style latches too. I made them out of 1/4" plywood. They will be held in place with screws and a nylon washer between the hook and top. To remove a rod, move the hook to the side, grab rod then head to the lake. I'm debating on red oak stain with two part table top coating. I drew out the hooks onto the plywood then nailed them together and cut them on the bandsaw. The belt sander and dremel finished them off.

Here are some photos...


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

bigone5500 said:


> What idiot would bore 3/4" deep pockets in 1x6 boards???


LOL Didn't want to drill holes all the way through? That took me off guard and I drew glares from others at work laughing.

I like the looks of your stand. Neat protractor, too. Are you still putting wheels on the bottom?


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Pad the hooks or you will have some scratches on the rod. If they get too deep, you will wind up having two real short rods.


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## FishFactory (Nov 8, 2013)

Pineknot_86 said:


> Pad the hooks or you will have some scratches on the rod. If they get too deep, you will wind up having two real short rods.


This....

Most often when a rod breaks it is from a knick in the blank from a hook or smacking another rod. I have broken several rods.....mostly on a hard hookset (I fish alot of grass lakes)...but alot of times I can track it back to a knick or something else. Rods get expensive.....good idea to protect them best you can. Also looks like you have some room for rod socks in the top.....cheap protection and eliminates tangles.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

mikechell said:


> LOL Didn't want to drill holes all the way through? That took me off guard and I drew glares from others at work laughing.
> 
> I like the looks of your stand. Neat protractor, too. Are you still putting wheels on the bottom?


Thanks! Yes, I plan on using 1 1/2" swivel casters. I had originally planned to use only 4 but I think it will be more stable with 5. They will be plate mount.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Pineknot_86 said:


> Pad the hooks or you will have some scratches on the rod. If they get too deep, you will wind up having two real short rods.


Sure thing! I plan on getting some brown or black felt and after I finish the wood I'll glue it on. I have also pondered some thin cork. However, the cork could rot over time.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

FishFactory said:


> This....
> 
> Most often when a rod breaks it is from a knick in the blank from a hook or smacking another rod. I have broken several rods.....mostly on a hard hookset (I fish alot of grass lakes)...but alot of times I can track it back to a knick or something else. Rods get expensive.....good idea to protect them best you can. Also looks like you have some room for rod socks in the top.....cheap protection and eliminates tangles.


Ok, it's off to google to see what a rod sock is...


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

By the way guys, don't use duct tape to hold things in place on wood. The sticky doesn't come off easily. The wood grain grabs hold of the adhesive and is very good at keeping it there.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Here are the hooks and rods in place. Just need to apply a wood finish and be done with it. ...oh and casters too.

In total, I used two 8' 1x6, a 3' scrap piece of 2x4 which was ripped to 1 1/2 square, and some scrap 1/4" plywood (probably about 3 1/2 to 4' x 2 1/2". Maybe if someone is more talented, they can forego the pocket holes and have a better looking underside. The spire in the center can be done away with and just use a stud screwed into the top. However, you would probably have to use some stabilizers underneath as I did with the lower part.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Someone mentioned lining those hooks and grooves with felt. Not a bad idea, but if your not shaking the rack around, then there's no need for felt. 
Those rods, sitting there just like that, are not getting damaged.

I like those hooks. Very "outside-the-box" thinking.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

mikechell said:


> Someone mentioned lining those hooks and grooves with felt. Not a bad idea, but if your not shaking the rack around, then there's no need for felt.
> Those rods, sitting there just like that, are not getting damaged.
> 
> I like those hooks. Very "outside-the-box" thinking.


Thanks! I have thought about finishing them to look like fishing hooks but I'm not talented enough for that. I was looking at the top today and noticed that it is a bit on the wobbly side. Too much for me to be comfortable with so I will be adding some stabilization to the underside of the top. I have some 3x3 triangle 'wedges' already cut so I just need to attach them. I did not use any glue on the bottom stabilizers and will not on the top. This will give me the ability to disassemble it in the future for storage if need be. I have also decided to get rid of the 'spire' on top and purchase a 2" wood ball. I will replace the stud with one that has wood screw threads on both ends. That will, in effect, force me to add pins to the top to eliminate rotation. I will take a 1/8" welding rod and cut some 2" lengths, drill holes after aligning the pockets and slots, then drill 2 holes for the pins and hammer them in.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Felt will work fine. The reason I asked about having the reels on the rods, I built two rod racks- square using cheap pine and with Berkely foam rod holders. I can only put rods/reels in alternate spaces. Reels don't allow the rods to be placed side-by-side.
Mike, just taking the rods in and out of the rack can cause scratches and nicks if it is rubbing against the wood. Better safe than sorry. Quality tackle costs too much to break.
I have been building custom rods for over 8 years. It is possible to catch fish over 100 lb. on a fly rod. When a rod breaks, it is the rod blank and not necessarily the angler.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

I took the rack apart and found that the hole in the center of the vase was not centered. I removed the t nit and drilled it out a size smaller than 3/8". I took a 3/8 hardwood dowel and beveled one end then coated it with glue. I hammered it in, cut it off then sanded flush. Fortunately the lines from marking the pockets were still there so I usedan them to finstall the center and redrilled. All is well.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

bigone5500 said:


> I took the rack apart and found that the hole in the center of the base was not centered. I removed the t nut and drilled it out a size smaller than 3/8". I took a 3/8 hardwood dowel and beveled one end then coated it with glue. I hammered it in, cut it off then sanded flush. Fortunately the lines from marking the pockets were still there so I used an them to install the center and re-drilled. All is well.


My phone is stupid so it has not learned to spell yet. I can't edit the post now so the above is the correction.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Duz yur fone have Spelll chek?


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Got the felt pieces cut out. Won't glue them in till I get the poly applied. I found a Web site that had printable circles. Used a glue stick to adhere it to the felt and went to work.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Looking good! :thumbsup:


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

So I'm going to start work on finishing the wood tomorrow. I have two choices in mind for this. They are water based polyurethane and water based polycrylic. Which one will best suit this project?


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

I decided to give the polycrylic a try. I like it so far. I have 3 coats on and it has a decent shine to it. Not mirror by any means but looks good nonetheless.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Don't know if you can see it very well in these photos but the polycrylic is done. Not in the photos, but has been done, is the felt for the pockets in the base. I have yet to do the slots in the top but have the felt cut. I am debating on how to glue them on. I used 3M Super77 for the base but it's messy and I don't want it getting all over the place. I thought about double sided tape but the edges will probably not hold on that. I wonder if the best thing to use might be some of that E6000 adhesive. However, it too can be messy.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

You can buy felt with pressure sensitive adhesive. We have it on a lot of our furniture since we have hardwood floors. The rack looks real good! My complements!


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Pineknot_86 said:


> You can buy felt with pressure sensitive adhesive. We have it on a lot of our furniture since we have hardwood floors. The rack looks real good! My complements!


Thanks! I think I will try this permanent stick glue (Scotch brand) I have and see how it works out. I'll put one piece on and let it 'dry' then pull on it to see how durable the bond is.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

I have tried 6 different methods for attaching the felt. They are as follows:

1. double sided tape
2. elmer's white glue
3. elmer's gel glue
4 elmer's wood glue
5. elmer's rubber cement
6. scotch permanent stick glue

The one that seems to work the best is the stick glue. It goes on easily with little to no mess. I can apply it in two coats for max adhesion. The second best is the tape. The tape goes on semi easily as it wants to stick to everything in the universe. Applying it to the rack is tricky as the slots are narrow and it tries to stick to both sides at once. The white, gel, and wood glues are not good to use. They apply easily but almost immediately soak all the way through the felt creating a big mess. This may cause the felt to harden and not give a soft surface for the rods. The worst one is the rubber cement. It goes on easily but is the messiest. It dries too quickly for application and once applied does not hold well. I think the polycrylic is a factor in the rubber cement not holding well either. There is not porous surface for it to grab to. Maybe I'm wrong. 

I'll stick with the stick...


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Dude, you can get felt with pressure sensitive adhesive. Check at the local hardware store or big box store. I cheated and used Berkeley rod holders. One is slotted for the top with foam inserts and the other is for the end of the rods. I would show a picture but the rod rack is in the junkiest part of the basement. Sort of looks like something you would see on Hoarders.


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## bigone5500 (Feb 9, 2014)

Pineknot_86 said:


> Dude, you can get felt with pressure sensitive adhesive. Check at the local hardware store or big box store. I cheated and used Berkeley rod holders. One is slotted for the top with foam inserts and the other is for the end of the rods. I would show a picture but the rod rack is in the junkiest part of the basement. Sort of looks like something you would see on Hoarders.


I may go ahead and get some of that and see how it adheres as compared to the stick glue. I want a good permanent bond that will last many years. I don't know how long the stick will last so before I go any further with this project, I will get some of that felt. I'll check with hobby lobby and michael's to see who has the better deal and assortment of colors.


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