# Making Rabbets quickly



## UncleBill (May 28, 2009)

I make a lot of picture frames. I do the 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet by setting the (single) blade on the table saw at a 3/8" height with an adjustable depth gauge. I then lay the depth gauge flat and adjust the rip fence so that the left side of blade is 3/8" from the rip fence.

I run the frame piece through the saw, with a push stick, on edge, flush against the fence (high side up) first. This way I have almost all of the 3/4" thickness resting flat on the table. Then I turn the piece so that the 2" width is laying on the table. Again with a push stick, I push the piece through the saw. The second cut results in a rabbet in the frame piece and a piece of stock almost 1/4" square as long as the piece.

Before I cut my frame pieces to the required length, I measure the length of the rabbet, for say a 24" x 36" mat, on the scrap 1/4" square piece, with a extra 1/8" length as a history pole for laying out the miters accurately.

This technique doesn't require changing over the saw blade to a dado blade. I find the narrow scraps quite handy as square plugs or story poles for other projects. 

Anybody have a problem with my technique?

What do you think about the safety aspects?

Be honest. I want your feedback.


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## Jordy3738 (Jan 12, 2009)

Using a jointer and a powered feeder would be safer. This would require a healthy investment though.


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

Hi Uncle Bill!

I agree with Jordy......not too safe at all, assuming that your frame width is only a few inches :thumbdown:

A router table with some feather boards would do the job nicely.

Rick


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I've used that method safely for years*

The only issue I see is that when the board is standing on the 3/4" edge, a featherboard would be good to keep a constant pressure in towards the fence. On the flat, you can still use one , but you have a little more surface to grip and therefore can apply pressure towards the fence and blade easier. :thumbsup: bill


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

we make many custom picture frames, and i often use this method. 

seldom is the depth 3/8" tho, i adjust so that when "all in", the insert is level with the back for the tabs i like to use. and i add 1/16".


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

TimPa said:


> we make many custom picture frames, and i often use this method.
> 
> seldom is the depth 3/8" tho, i adjust so that when "all in", the insert is level with the back for the tabs i like to use. and i add 1/16".


does the depth requirement increase / decrease by the decade?


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

it increases or decreases by the total thickness of the materials being installed into the frame - glass, picture, matte, and backer board. typically runs about .210" without matte


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