# Suggest a good miter saw



## pcm81 (Mar 1, 2012)

I have the Stanley 20-800and it gets the job done, but I'd like something better. I don't mind spending money on a good product (up to $200), but I don't want another unit which I'd have to replace later.

My requirements are:
1. Good Saw, with multiple blades available. Think few tpi to many tpi for finishing cuts. Think cross cut blades, along grain blades etc... Exta blades are not part of $200 mark.
2. Accepts boards with width up to 8 inches.
3. Produces consistent results with 90, 45, 30 degree angles. Extra bonus if it can do more angles, or an incline angles. I dont mind having to use protractor to set other angles... (they don't have to be marked on the jig...)

The biggest problem i found with Stanley box is the cheap saw so the saw is a major requirement.

I am looking for hand saw, not power saw.

Thanks ahead.


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

craftsman made (don't know if they still do) a pretty decent miter saw. it had two vertical posts, and a nice guide system. i used it for years, until i went electric. main prblem with hand type is you can't shave off a 1/64" with it.


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

pcm81 said:


> I have the Stanley 20-800and it gets the job done, but I'd like something better. I don't mind spending money on a good product (up to $200), but I don't want another unit which I'd have to replace later.
> 
> My requirements are:
> 1. Good Saw, with multiple blades available. Think few tpi to many tpi for finishing cuts. Think cross cut blades, along grain blades etc... Exta blades are not part of $200 mark.
> ...


Do a search for a miller falls miter saw on ebay, those were some of the best saws and accurate.


----------



## Ozrob (Apr 21, 2008)

You could try the Nobex. Here it is at Rockler. About US$180.00
Regards,

Rob


----------



## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

There's an article on "Next Generation Miter Boxes" on page 10 of the latest Shop Notes issue (vol. 21, issue 122).

The featured saws are the Stanley Pro Clamping Miter Box, and the Nobex 180 and 110.

I haven't read the article yet but you might want to check these out.

I hope this helps. Keep us posted woodya?


----------



## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

I know this isn't going to help you but I thought you might find it interesting.

I got this for $4.00 at a garage sale. I'm going to rebuild it with new hardwood components, buy a decent saw and use it to safely cut small pieces.

@#%&*, having trouble posting photos


----------



## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Here it is (I hope)


----------



## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

A couple more photo's.


----------



## pcm81 (Mar 1, 2012)

*Thanks*

Thanks for all the replies. It seems that the most versatile is a jig without a saw, which can accept any saw.I think they stopped making these in 1950s... Ebay, here i come... Even the $180 jig referenced higher in the thread still only boasts 2 types of blades. I guess i'll have to eventually just buy a whole lot of saws if i ever need a different type of cut, rather than just buying a different blade for 1 saw. I guess i now have a good reason to build my own jig / saw blade holder...

Thanks all, i got my question answered, just not an answer i was hoping it will be.


----------



## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

PCM, I'm confused as to why you'd need so many different saws. 

I don't know much at all about miter boxes and I assumed that they were used only for trim and that one good saw would perform any task required.

What am I missing?


----------



## pcm81 (Mar 1, 2012)

jharris said:


> PCM, I'm confused as to why you'd need so many different saws.
> 
> I don't know much at all about miter boxes and I assumed that they were used only for trim and that one good saw would perform any task required.
> 
> What am I missing?


Usually meter boxes are indeed only used for trim, but if i am cutting a 2x6 why not have something to guide my along the way...

Saws vary drastically in teeth and performance. Tooth size effects roughness and speed of cut. Big teeth cut fast but leave very rough edge. Tooth shape also varies. Standard tooth, that looks like an isosceles triangle is best for cutting at 90 degree to grain lines. The right triangle like looking teeth are usually best for cutting at 45 degrees to the grain. The teeth for cutting along the grain usually look like a crest of a wave. The closer you get to cutting parrallel with the grain the sharper/more biting teeth geometry you need, to make sure saw cuts in a straight line, not along the grain lines, even though two ore near parallel. The more aggressive biting geometry will also dull faster, which is why different teeth are used for different grain orientations.


----------



## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Not sure if this will work for you, but for some TS users another option is a "supersled". Did you see Bassblaster' super sled build thread from last year? The site with the plans, eaglewoodworking, has great videos.


----------

