# Table saw safety question



## buktotruth (Nov 15, 2010)

I'm planning on cutting some thin strips of wood (1/4" -> 1/2" thick) on my table saw and I'm not sure if it's safer to cut with the narrow part near the fence or away from the fence. 

In other words do I set my fence to 1/2" away from the blade and make a bunch of cuts that way? Or do I subtract 1/2" off the width of my board and set the fence to that distance (say, for a 6" wide board, set the fence to 5 1/2"). The former would be easier for making lots of strips (no need to reset the fence each time), but I'm not sure if that's a safe way to go.

...and, obviously, I'll use a push stick if I'm using the former (close to fence) option.

Thanks for the help!
Jeff


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## russjohnson (Dec 11, 2010)

Unless you enjoy wood strips flying at you I would reset fence each time. There are some in strip jigs on the net. http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip111700wb.html


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I've done 1/2", 1/4" even 1/8"*

blade to fence using the wood itself to push through right down to almost nothing then I chew up a push stick to get the last ones through. What will help is a hold down at the far end of the fence to keep them from lifting up. Like was said they may want to come "flyin' back at you" if the fence isn't spot on, but not with enough force to hurt anything. Just stand aside a bit if that starts to happen. I don't know how many you have to make, but as was also said there is a simple jig you can buy or make to make the strips on the left of the blade and move the fence each time. I have the one from Rockler, but haven't bothered to set it up for just a few strips.  bill

This thread covers a lot: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/thin-strip-ripping-jig-20993/


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

I'm a beginner so take this with a note of caution.

I've had good results (I think) using the narrow-rip jig in the manual for my saw, which is probably from 1970 or so. It works with the guard which isn't the pictures because I was last set up for crosscutting. 

The jig has two parts. 

Part A is a simple L shape and attaches to your fence (mine is screwed to my tall auxillary fence). Since it is stationary, the face of Part A near the saw blade becomes the "fence" where the stock slides for this operation. So in my pics, I have a fence that is 3/8" tall and that limits how thick the stock can be and still feel safe. I've made narrow rips in oak, maple, pine, plywood, and plastics up to 3/4" thick with no trouble. I don't think I'd try much thicker without increasing the bottom part of Part A to make a taller "fence" 

Part B is a special pushblock that mostly slides on top of Part A, but has a slightly wider base. The smallest dimension you can cut with this jig is the difference between the two (Width of Part B minus width of Part A). Mine is built for a minimum rip width of 1/4".

My pics don't have a zero clearance throat plate (something I'm trying to add to my saw). Using one is advised! I've had a few throw back experiences of narrow pieces, but nothing dramatic. I stand to one side and let a tarp catch them. Using a hold down on the front is an interesting idea.

Hope that helps somebody,
Steve El

(This works with my factory blade guard)


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I bought the Rockler jig for cutting thin strips. The jig goes in the left miter gauge slot. There is a wheel at the point of the gauge. You set the distance from the blade to the wheel and tighten the jig on the operator side of the saw blade. 

To use you put the stock against the jig and slide the fence to the gauge. Make your cut pushing the stock all the way through the cut. The off fall is the size that you set the jig. It is simple to move the fence and repeat the cut.


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## buktotruth (Nov 15, 2010)

Thanks a lot for the tips! I love the simple jig that uses a screw as an adjuster. Seems like a no brainer. 

-Jeff


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I've had good success using a simple home made jig to cut them on the right side of the blade. I take a scrap piece of 2x4 or 2x6 and joint it square. I attach 2 dowel handles on the top. One edge rides against the fence. I then attach a piece the width of the strip I need to cut to the other edge near the tail end of the 2x4 (I use glue or glue and brads depending upon the thickness). I set the flat edge against the fence and then use the attached piece to set the distance to the blade (making sure this just barely touches the blade). Just place the stock to be cut against the 2x4 with the scrap catching the stock to push it. Since I do a lot of thin strips I use a push stick/shoe on the body of the stock on the left side of the blade. This keeps both hands well away from the blade. BTW, I also use a zero clearance throat plate when doing this. If this isn't making sense (I know I'm having a hard time describing this as I'm tired) let me know and I can post some pictures.

I have these made for 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch strips that I use in laminating cutting boards.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Ditto on the Rockler jig. It does what it's supposed to. Simple, repeatable, inexpensive.


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## designer-fixit (Aug 31, 2010)

so, it looks like you figured it out... glad you got this one....how did it turn out for you?these guys really know their tools haw?b


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