# Sanding Lines



## Tech0507 (Jul 9, 2012)

Good evening all,
I'm working on a few holiday gifts and am doing some turnings with walnut (the first time I've worked with this). Due to the darker nature of the wood it seems like chatter marks and lines from sanding appear when I go against the grain. What I'm wondering is how can I sand the turning on the lathe using sandpaper without getting lines in the workpiece? I've worked up from 100-150-220 and still have some lines. Are there any tricks or do I simply need to sand longer? Any tips or tricks would be awesome!
Thanks!


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

People love to see pictures...


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

There are a couple of things that have helped me -- but sometimes nothing seems to work.

If it's spindle work (where the grain goes parallel to the axis of rotation):

Go back to 100 grit (or even 80 grit) and sand the entire spindle again. Then stop the lathe, and rub the sandpaper along the length of the piece, removing all traces of the rings around the spindle, turning by hand so you get rid of all those scratches. Naturally, you will be left with scratches that run between the headstock and tailstock, but none that go around the piece.

Then brush away all the dust and grit that might be left on the piece (for pens, I use an old toothbrush; bigger spindles I use an old paintbrush).

Now go on to the next grit, using it to remove all the length-ways scratches.

Stop, and again sand along the length of the piece to remove all those rings.

Clean off, next grit, lather, rinse, repeat.

If it's a bowl, the only thing I found that helps is power-sanding, I use one of THESE in my cordless drill -- I usually start at 120 grit, but if there's torn end grain I'l start coarser.

HTH


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Also blow it out or dust it off between grits. The dust fills the sanding lines and they won't show. It's extremely important see the lines and sand them down before you get to the next higher grit. I also don't skip any grits. I don't have 100 but I use 80, 120, 150, 180, 220, 320, and 400. Sanding with the grain with the lathe off will get the lines out of those stubborn areas. Also sand with the bowl spinning slow. High speed just make the sandpaper bounce over some areas and it doesn't cut as well when it gets hot.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

+1 with Duncsass.

To assist in the hand sanding to prevent getting flat spots, I use the 3M sanding sponges, either by itself or by wrapping strips of sandpaper around the sponge. 

The sponge being flexible really helps for any curved surface, whether spindle, outside of bowls or inside of bowls.

I also used the scalloped discs like the ones Duncsass had in the link. They work well, although if you press too hard, the heat generated will cause the disc to de-laminate. I have this happen more than I like.

I get the replacement discs from Klingspor.
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/abrasive-discs/


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

What everyone else said but to help prevent a do over....
Have a light you can bring parallel with the work area even if it is only a hand held flashlight. Wet the piece with minerals spirits and slowly rotate by hand (takes about 10 minutes to dry to proceed with sanding). If you see any valleys stay with the same grit. After the first two grits you should not need to wet any more because you are only removing scratches from the last grit. A light directly from above will not highlight the depression as a parallel light does which creates shadows.


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## Tech0507 (Jul 9, 2012)

Thanks you guys for all of the feedback! Certainly lots to take in and try. I tried to take a picture but getting it to upload was much more of a challenge than I was up for tonight. I will try out some of the things you suggested tomorrow. Thank you again for all of the prompt responses. I greatly appreciate it!


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