# Can I make L shaped corner shelves like this from solid wood?



## Caitlin Gonzalez (Mar 26, 2017)

I had a bunch of solid maple 10"x2"x4' long shelves made and bought 8" steel dowels for hanging, thinking they would all be hung in a row on the wall. But of course plans change and now I want to have some L shaped corner shelves (like the picture).
I see most DIY applications are building with plywood around 2x4's to make these shelves... but do you think its possible to build the corner shelves with my solid wood?? How would you approach it?

EDIT: Just to clarify- the shelves are already built! They are 10"x2"x4' long and I want to configure them in a L shape to fit onto the wall.


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## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

The picture shows floating (hanging) shelves. They must have hidden supports (brackets, mounts). Here is a video on how to make one:
http://www.wikihow.com/Build-Simple-Floating-Shelves


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Certainly you can. Build just like you see in the image you attached. The self on one wall will but up to the shelf on the other wall, or you could do a miter cut in the corner.

I do not understand why you think that solid wood vs plywood would be different.

George


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## Caitlin Gonzalez (Mar 26, 2017)

OK but my shelves are already made.. and I am looking to place them in a corner, not one long flat shelf. Please reread my post.


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## Caitlin Gonzalez (Mar 26, 2017)

George, You make it sound so simple. My concern is if it is mitered in one corner and one shelf is already up... then it will be physically impossible to slide the second shelf onto the dowels.


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## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

If the shelves are already built, the simplest answer is to cut them and mount them in an L-shape, butting. The two pieces will not be equal lengths.


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## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

You can also miter them as George suggested. Where is the problem?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

You DON'T want to miter 10" wide solid wood shelves....LONG term problems with wood movement AND IT will!!!

Do as mentioned above mount one wall then butt join the other. IF you wanted the two anchored I'd insert a hidden finishing screw under side at a angle after install so removal in future could be achieved ONLY near the front edge and the back can float as MC changes.

Just take your time and this will be a wonderful project when finished.

We like finished pics of projects we help on!!! LOL!!!


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## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

I would go with Tim's advice on butted shelf corner. He is our expert on moisture content and wood movement!

If you are willing to spend a little more time, you can add a loose tenon (or biscuit) to the butt joint for greater strength.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I think I get the issue ...*

Quote:
_Caitlin Gonzalez George, You make it sound so simple. My concern is if it is mitered in one corner and one shelf is already up... then it will be physically impossible to slide the second shelf onto the dowels._ 


One shelf is already mounted says OP.....? or is it?


Butting the other shelf in to the existing shelf, is not an issue EXCEPT it will not slide onto the dowels to support it, each set of dowels being at 90 degrees to the other. It won't matter if the joint is a miter or a butt. No matter if the L is pre-assembled or assembled one shelf at a time the issue is still the same as stated above.

So, we need a sliding support for the butt joint to allow the second shelf to butt and slide onto the dowels in the wall simultaneously. Maybe a spline? Maybe a support plate underneath? Maybe a diagonal screw through the intersection? :|


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> Quote:
> _Caitlin Gonzalez George, You make it sound so simple. My concern is if it is mitered in one corner and one shelf is already up... then it will be physically impossible to slide the second shelf onto the dowels._
> 
> 
> ...


You lost me. I do not see why the second shelf (in a butt joint) cannot directly slide onto the dowels. There is nothing interferring.

I need to see a picture of why it will not work.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*No means to attach to the existing shelf*



GeorgeC said:


> You lost me. I do not see why the second shelf (in a butt joint) cannot directly slide onto the dowels. There is nothing interferring.
> 
> I need to see a picture of why it will not work.
> 
> George


I suggested a sliding joint, bottom plate , a diagonal screw to attach the second shelf to the one already attached, with a butt joint.

If pre-assembled, the issue is as stated, you can't slide it onto dowels at 90 degrees to eachother.


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## Caitlin Gonzalez (Mar 26, 2017)

I like the idea of using a pocket hole/kreg jig to make a diagonal screw to keep the butt ends together! Thanks! Not sure if Ill need to router a spot for a joining plate also.


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## Caitlin Gonzalez (Mar 26, 2017)

I am appreciating all of this advice and feeling better about butt joining my shelves now. I guess the only part leaving me nervous right now is the dowel installation. Its critical the dowels are all installed LEVEL and centered JUST RIGHT according to the shelf holes and stud locations...... 

So how do I make sure the holes I drill in my shelves are perfectly spaced according to the dowels? 
How do I make sure the dowels on both walls are level to each other?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

There is a tool made for this problem. It is called a Dowel Center.

 Dowel Center Set. 

Very easy to use. Drill holes in studs, insert tool and then press board against points.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> I suggested a sliding joint, bottom plate , a diagonal screw to attach the second shelf to the one already attached, with a butt joint.
> 
> If pre-assembled, the issue is as stated, you can't slide it onto dowels at 90 degrees to eachother.


OK. Did not understand that you were stating for pre-assembled.

George


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## Caitlin Gonzalez (Mar 26, 2017)

George, I love you for that.

Now I just need to make sure my dowels are level but thats nothing compared to that little problem solver!!!!


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## Caitlin Gonzalez (Mar 26, 2017)

I can't find any dowel centers that will fit my dowels! My dowels are about 1/2" diameter I believe, they call for 5/8" holes in the wood. I thought I found some through McMaster but I guess not..


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*not an easy task*



Caitlin Gonzalez said:


> I am appreciating all of this advice and feeling better about butt joining my shelves now. I guess the only part leaving me nervous right now is the dowel installation. Its critical the dowels are all installed LEVEL and centered JUST RIGHT according to the shelf holes and stud locations......
> 
> So how do I make sure the holes I drill in my shelves are perfectly spaced according to the dowels?
> How do I make sure the dowels on both walls are level to each other?


It's like building a bridge on each side of the river and hoping the ends meet in the center ...exacty.

Measuring AND a paper template will help insure the holes on the wall and on the shelf are in the exact same relationship. You can make a rubbing using a pencil just rubbed over the wall holes to get their location. You can then transfer all the centers to your shelves from the template. The wall holes will dictate where the shelf holes go because they MUST be in the wall studs. Drywall will not support the dowels! :smile3:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Caitlin Gonzalez said:


> I am appreciating all of this advice and feeling better about butt joining my shelves now. I guess the only part leaving me nervous right now is the dowel installation. Its critical the dowels are all installed LEVEL and centered JUST RIGHT according to the shelf holes and stud locations......
> 
> _So how do I make sure the holes I drill in my shelves are perfectly spaced according to the dowels? _
> 
> ...


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