# Picked up a #6C this weekend



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Just getting around to pix and posting. circa early '30s. Needed a bigger plane and this will be a nice addition. 






















Hard to see there is a Sweetheart logo on the cutter.


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

"Needed a bigger plane and this will be a nice addition."

-Yeah, you'll love your six.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

Nice look'n piece. I know you will enjoy using it.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

I was away for a long weekend, had to go make sure mine was still there.  lol

Nice find, I use mine constantly, enjoy yours.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

It's in pretty nice shape.....nice acquisition! :thumbsup:


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Thanks guys. Yeah, it's got some light rust and needs a bit of tuning but a nice piece. The blade had a slight camber on the edges so I think someone knew what they were doing. Bought it from a guy just a town away. Woodworker, collector, flea market hobbiest and good guy. Wasn't looking to make a killing, just a little "finders fee" which was good for me. Nice to meet other woodworkers in the area. 

I thought I would try electrolysis with this plane. Won't be able to get to it right away but will post pix when I do.

Yeah Brink, it's called "6 envy." You're lucky I'm too lazy to drive all the way up there. :laughing:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Very nice, man! Congrats, you'll love it. Be forewarned that electrolysis will separate the remaining japanning from the plane which is fine if you want to redo that, just saying!

The 6 I have isn't corrugated, wish it was though. Doesn't really change the performance but I have a soft spot for the C's

:thumbup:


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

*Why electrolysis?*

Hi, good morning, hey how ya doin'? 
Stepping on soapbox.
Not to hijack a thread, but why would you consider electrolysis? The pics showed a plane. If they showed an orange mass of metal, a chunk of iron that could be a plane but we're not quite sure, or a black cutter that may or may not have a logo underneath the crud, then maybe I could see zapping it or dunking in the Evaporust. But if it's just got some coloring around the edges - why go plugging it in and scrubbing/polishing it to within an inch of its life? Isn't that a bit like buying a classic car in good condition, and then telling the body shop to bead-blast every inch of paint off down to bare metal, and throw on a new coat, because of that one little scratch back by the trunk lock, you know - the one you can see if you hold your head just right while the sun hits it at just the exact angle? It seems like a bit of useless overkill that just hastens the demise of properly patinated planes. I like electrolysis when it's appropriate, don't get me wrong. But it's a gateway drug. If you have a weak constitution then it just leads to bigger problems. Today you're zapping planes. Tomorrow you're buying evaporust in 55 gallon drums. A year from now you're standing on a corner "washing" windows of passing cars with a dirty rag in hopes of earning enough change to go buy another wire wheel for the grinder or - even worse - more medium for the blasting cabinet. Where does it end? You're never going to get it all. Like Mr. Young said, Rust Never Sleeps.
Stepping off soapbox.

Soooo, how about them Cubs?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I wholly agree with ya Joe... I gave up fighting that battle here though. Kind'a like I gave up on the wax Vs Bostik/boishield.

I do like evaporust though for cleaning out any pitted areas and it's been my experience so far that, as far as I can tell, it doesn't affect or alter the japanning. I think of it as preventative maintenance to remove the 'cancer' and seal it from further growing.

I have no heartburn about making performance improvements to a plane either. If the mouth needs filing or anything for that matter, have at. They are for using not displaying.

What I strongly disagree with is repainting planes unless they are just gone... I enameled one Union 5 that started as a rust bucket with little japanning left.

So while you brought it up, Joe, I figured I'd speak my peace again and then go back to biting my tongue... some things ain't worth fighting over.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Holy cow! I had no idea I was trodding on sacred ground. :blink:

I've been reading about using electrolysis to remove rust (and paint) as part of tool and machinery restoration. Woodcraft has a video that includes restoring a plane this way. It seems to be another useful method to have in one's arsenal and thought I would try it out on this guy. It would be useful for getting in the nooks and crannies that I can't get with most methods. Otherwise I would use Evaporust which works great, but does leave a slightly darkend patina. Really wanted to try this out and compare results.

Joe, I have a great deal of respect for your experience with older hand tools and if you say it's not worth it on this then I'll probably drop it. I will though use Evaporust. I don't have that many nice hand tools and enjoy restoring them. I don't see that as akin to bead blasting the whole car but rather a good wash and wax. What methods do you use to clean up a handplane that has a light layer of rust, then to protect it?


Growing up in the northwest burbs of Chicago I've been to Wrigley Field many times. Unfortunately the outcome is always the same: :smile: :yes: :w00t: :blink:  :wallbash:  :furious:  :icon_cry:


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## larrynj (Jan 27, 2012)

looks like all it needs is a wipedown with bust rust and a 3m pad.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I'll throw in my vote for evaporust for what little I see. This old boy is NOT an electrolysis candidate. It looks in great shape. Is that the original blade? I think that should have a sweethart iron for that age group. Not that it'll affect the performance any, it looks really good.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Thanks ACP. Yes, there is a sweetheart logo on the cutter. I tried to get a picture but it's not very clear. After a little cleanup and polish I'll try again.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

A few months back I discovered an older 6 in a buddy's garage suffering from neglect and loneliness. After a bit of lapping, cleaning, grinding and honing I got it to work quite well and it is now used often in my shop.

Today I was working on a book-matched walnut panel that I made from some figured crotch grain. I didn't dare send it through the planer and I don't have a wide belt sander so I spent some time honing some of my plane irons as sharp as I know how to get them. This was a challenging work piece with the grain direction running through the length of it in a serpentine manner and of course being the it is book-matched the grain goes opposite directions each side of the center seam.

The 6 worked well for taking down the high spots which I was working diagonally, being careful to change directions as the grain did. I like the heft and width of the 6. Then I switched to a 3 to get what the 6 couldn't. I worked toward the center seam but tried to leave it alone as much as I could. Then I switched to a lower angled japanese Kanna pull plane which seemed to work the best of the three planes in this grain. I filed a scraper and burnished a fresh burr on the edges and worked the center seem. The panel is 15" x 48" and by the time I had it all smoothed out I was soaking with sweat. A good workout.

Bret


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

Lola Ranch said:


> by the time I had it all smoothed out I was soaking with sweat. A good workout.
> 
> Bret


Another benefit of this hand tool thing!! I've lost 40# since I retired from my desk job.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Wrangler said:


> Another benefit of this hand tool thing!! I've lost 40# since I retired from my desk job.


haha, the wife always knows if I've done an excessive amount of hand sawing or planing. 

It can be quite a work out!

...build n burn - live n learn...


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