# Router planer or jointer?



## thunderbyte

I am pretty new to woodworking and have a few questions. The first is about a jointer. I have a router mounted on a table and the table manual says it can be used as a jointer. Is this usually ok? Also, will a thickness planer work for this operation if the boards are up on end. I would rather not purchase a jointer right now as funds are a little on the tight side. 

The table I have is this one with a new Hitachi router http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100618267

Here is the planer
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100634358

I will be working with curly maple for a while.

Thanks for any help!
Len


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## Ken Johnson

Your best bet to get a truly straight edge would be to use your router table. Shim out the outfeed side of the face so it is not even with the infeed side of the fence and allign the cutter with the outfeed fence.


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## knotscott

A router or even a tablesaw with a jig can straighten the edge of a board, but neither can flatten the broad face without alot of effort and help. If the face isn't flat, the edges won't have good reference for a true 90° adjacent edge. 

A planer is best at reducing thickness, smoothing, and making one side parallel to the opposite side. A jointer is best at making a face flat and straightening an adjacent edge at 90°. With the help of a planer sled, a planer can flatten a face. There are also techniques that can help you straighten the edges but it's not necessarily the best tool for the job. 

A jointer will have a difficult time making two faces parallel, and for that reason I'd pick a planer over a jointer if I could only have one. The two tools are really intended to work in tandem, and they work wonderfully together. ...Most folks will flatten the face of a board on a jointer, then lay that flattened face against the jointer fence and straighten an adjacent edge, then will put the opposite face on the planer so it can make the unworked face parallel to the first flattened face. After that I rip the remaining unworked edge on the table saw to final width. Everyone has their own sequence of doing things...the method given is pretty much what Norm Abrams and David Marks do.


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## GeorgeC

A router is a good all around tool. As you have found out it can do many things. While it could substitute for a planer/jointer, it would in my opinion be a difficult job. I consider the planer/jointer an essential tool. On the other hand, if you are working with good store bought lumber then a planner is good to have but not essential. I went many, many years without one. 

George


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## dbhost

I am not sure I understand the question. All three tools are very useful in the shop. You CAN joint on a router table, but it isn't always the best choice, especially with thicker lumber. 

Each of these tools have a different purpose. The router is good for MANY things, partucularly creating detail in lumber in a wide variety of profiles, and joinery work are two of the areas it excels in. 

A jointer is great for providing a perfectly flat surface in rough lumber, and providing a proper 90 degree cuts. 

A planer is probably better described as a thicknesser. It provides good parallel surfaces.

Each have their place in the shop, and each are vitally important... 

If you want to joint on the router table, it can be done. I am not familiar with that Ryobi table, but I have a similar low end el cheapo table, I run a piece of 1/8" hard board with double sided tape as a thickness spacer on the outfeed side of the fence. I set it up with a straight edge in relation to the bit. Once this is set up you can joint your lumber with a nice clean glue edge. You are however limited to the thickness of your material by the height of your flush trimming bit. I have one that will cut at most 2" thick material... You CAN joint on the table saw using a shop built jig as well...

Once budget becomes available, a jointer is a nice tool to own... Good used examples come up for decent prices occasionally on Craigslist, or you can grab an inexpensive bench top unit like the Sunhill SM-150-B I own. Like I said though, a jointer is nice, not absolutely neccesary...

Members on another board have done a good write up of the router jointing process. You can find it at the link below...

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=27458


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## Lucas54

I used my table saw with a shop made jig as a jointer for quite some time. So, you can definitely get away with not using a jointer. I can say that since I've purchased a jointer, I can't see myself living without it. :no:

I guess my point is, use what you have if funds don't allow you to upgrade right away. There is almost always a way to get the job done with what you have. Save your money up and get one eventually.


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## thunderbyte

Thanks for the replies. My main reason for considering a jointer is that I know that "square" is very important when building just about anything. Since my original post, I have done more reading and now believe I will be able to get away with my miter saw and ripping the boards on my table saw. Other than assembley, I wont be doing any gluing on my first few projects. I believe I will be able to get everything squared up good enough to do what I want. I may be wrong, but thats what pine from Lowes is for! I plan on doing a dry run with that stuff before I start cutting my more expensive wood. Ahhh, the more expensive wood. That will be my next post.......


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## dbhost

There you go, there's a link to a table saw jointing jig. That'll be fine for doing glue lines and such... Just make sure you use a good blade...
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/


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## Tony B

*Nice Jig Link, DB*

Although I have not tried the jig in the link provided by DBHOST, I have other jigs that I use for making the initial flat, straight 90 degree cut. 
I have only used a joiner a few times many years ago. I bought a new joiner for my shop back then. It was a prettier and cleaner joint than what I could get off my table saw, but was no better for joining, so we quit using it. If you have a good tablesaw and a good saw blade you wont need a joiner. I do what I consider fine woodworking and have a good eye and my joints are not visible straight from the table saw.
A planer is much higher on my priority list. I buy my lumber planed and straight line ripped.


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## stcroix123

with alot of patience and a bit of time you can do a decent job with a powered hand planer. our father & grandfathers used bench & jack planes for centuries. just figure a way to get the job done till you can afford to upgrade.allthe fancy tools make the job easier (and sometimes more accurate) but are not absolutely necessary.


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## The Mind Train

*Router Jigs*

I dont have a jointer but have successfully used a router to achieve good results. I have used it in the table with the outfeed side shimmed up as described above and it works well enough for most projects until you get to the really thick timber. Another method I have used is to make a jig out of scrap MDF board and used a hand-held router to trim the edge square. This is the same jig I used to square off and accurately size some kitchen cabinet doors which I made from MDF with routed faux tongue and groove patterns.

But hold on guys - are we not forgetting that our fore-fathers didnt have power routers or jointers and yet managed to produce excellent results? A good quality jointing plane will do the job. Try looking at 2nd hand tool stores, ebay, and boot sales (garage sales) and you are likely to be able to pick up a well made vintage tool for a reasonable price.
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.20thcenturyfashion.co.uk/tft/matjp.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.20thcenturyfashion.co.uk/tft/mguide.htm&h=391&w=1063&sz=157&hl=en&start=1&um=1&usg=__R8ngsWV3F0eC_rIGkTX0kjfvqto=&tbnid=H1ylSk8-vupKwM:&tbnh=55&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Djointing%2Bplane%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26cr%3DcountryUK%257CcountryGB%26sa%3DN

Bob


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## Itchy Brother

*Craigslist*

I've got a few good tools off craigslist in nearly new condition-Delta 12" planer,two speed $180,Grisley 1 hp dust collecter $80,Jet 6" long table $350,Delta mortiser $60,free standing 5/8" chuck drill press $50,craftsman 12" band saw $40.Deals are out there and a lot of peeps are leting stuff go because the economy sucks.I did but a steel City table saw new for $950.


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## The Mind Train

*Old Tools*

Here's a link to some good quality vintage tools in good workshop order at reasonable prices. With the current £ /$ exchange rates you can get a good deal buying from UK sources.
http://www.oldtools.co.uk/tools/planes_scrapers/jack.fore.planes/jack.fore.planes.pg1.php
Bob


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## macman

*planer purchasing*

check out CPO tools for reconditioned tools with new tool warranties. They have your Ridgid planer. I just ordered a Ryobi 13" inch for $170 and free shipping. Ridgid Power Tools @ CPO or google CPO.


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