# Router Table Fence Roundup!



## Phaedrus

Alright folks! I am in the middle of building my first router table and need some info. I'd like to know what everyone has for a fence on their router table (pics, too!), what you like about it, what you don't like, etc. I don't know enough about using a router table to be sure that I am making the right decisions, so I would love to learn from everyone else's experiences. This is open to both homemade fences and manufactured models (and everything in between). 

I have, of course, done some pretty extensive research on line and though past threads, but I'd really like to have a fresh conversation about this. Thanks in advance!

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## Dave Paine

I have an Incra fence with a table top purchased from Woodpeckers mounted on a home made table.

This is the Incra fence.

http://www.incra.com/product_rtf_lsstandard.htm

This is a picture of my table.









I have added a two piece sacrificial MDF fence. The Incra fence has a small hole, but this is really designed for small and straight router bits.

The sacrificial fence is 2 pieces of 3/4in MDF. This works for most things, except when I need to use a slot cutter. This picture is when I was using the slot cutter bit and needed to clamp another piece of plywood so that the slot cutter would be clear of the aluminium Incra fence.

The two piece sacrificial fence allows me to keep the fence as close to the router bit as possible, and will not damage the bit if the fence gets too close. 

The main features I wanted with the Incra fence were accuracy and repeatability. Incra and Jessem were the two companies I looked at. I happened to spring for the Incra at a Woodworking show.

Incra positioner uses plastic engagements. Jessem uses metal engagements. I have not found the plastic to be a problem. The engagement is increments of 1/32in.

The mechanism is very solid when clamped. Clamping/unclamping is a second. Setup for a given depth of cut is very fast.

Prior to the Incra I had a Delta Router/Shaper. This had a split fence which was what I call "nudge and clamp" method. I got tired of the time it took me to get the fence set as needed. I was very frustrated if I later found I needed to re-cut a piece. It took even more time to try and repeat the exact setting. I gave away the Router/Shaper once I got the Incra fence. 

I have been happy with the Incra fence. Mine is the 16in long version. I have never used all this length. I could have saved some money with the 12in version, but this is with hindsight.

The Incra has the rules in the metal rail, so setting a depth for the fence is just reading off on a rule. There are 3 rules, so easy to set one for "zero" and the other for the final depth setting. I normally take a few passes when routing. 

My table top is only 27in wide. I would like this to be wider at times.

The positioner needs space at the back.

I would have considered an Incra table saw fence, but I do not have the space for the positioner.


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## Phaedrus

Dave, I can't help but notice how your fence lacks some of the features that appear to be pretty common on fences costing much less--specifically t-track mounts for feather boards on the fence, fence segments that can be slid closer and further from the fence, etc. Are these something that you find yourself missing? I do admire the precision and repeatability of cuts.

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## ponch37300

I bought this one a few years ago when it was on sale for around 30 bucks if I remember right, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21306&site=ROCKLER. Pretty nice fence for the money. I wouldn't pay the 90 dollars or whatever for the regular price but when on sale not to bad. It's held up pretty good and the fronts are replacable if I ever need to.


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## Dave Paine

Phaedrus said:


> Dave, I can't help but notice how your fence lacks some of the features that appear to be pretty common on fences costing much less--specifically t-track mounts for feather boards on the fence, fence segments that can be slid closer and further from the fence, etc. Are these something that you find yourself missing? I do admire the precision and repeatability of cuts.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Woodworking Talk


Ben, the Incra positioner can be attached to many fences.

http://www.incra.com/product_rtf_lspositioner_only.htm

I just have not found a pressing need to replace the fence. I have pondered this many times, when I see certain products, but have not justified the upgrade.

I mentioned earlier that my sacrificial MDF fence covers do move, but this was not clear in the picture, so I took a better picture.

I moved the segments so you can see the gap. These are held in a track in the Incra fence by home made small blocks cut out of UHMW materials which are attached by the screws you see in the picture.

I have purchased T track, which I was intended to install in the MDF. I have just not found the need yet. The times I need a stop block, I have just clamped a block to the fence.

I have seen the featherboard hold downs. I find the push blocks I use to move the piece from side to side are sufficient to also act as my hold downs.


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## Phaedrus

Dave Paine said:


> Ben, the Incra positioner can be attached to many fences.
> 
> http://www.incra.com/product_rtf_lspositioner_only.htm
> 
> I just have not found a pressing need to replace the fence. I have pondered this many times, when I see certain products, but have not justified the upgrade.
> 
> I mentioned earlier that my sacrificial MDF fence covers do move, but this was not clear in the picture, so I took a better picture.
> 
> I moved the segments so you can see the gap. These are held in a track in the Incra fence by home made small blocks cut out of UHMW materials which are attached by the screws you see in the picture.
> 
> I have purchased T track, which I was intended to install in the MDF. I have just not found the need yet. The times I need a stop block, I have just clamped a block to the fence.
> 
> I have seen the featherboard hold downs. I find the push blocks I use to move the piece from side to side are sufficient to also act as my hold downs.


 Thanks Dave, I see what is going on with your fence much better now.

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## jschaben

My fence is pretty simple, but functional. It's a double split with the lower fence faces a little over 3" and the center ones about 1-1/2". Dust collection is handled though the little "dog house" on the back of the fence and a hole in the table top down to plumbing in the router compartment. All exiting through a 2-1/2" fitting on the left end of the table. The lower fence faces are secured with the cam locks and the center faces with the large wing nuts. The lower faces are interchangeable and I have couple of zero clearance and a jointing infeed fence for it. I use featherboards a lot so have the t-track on the fence and combo(miter+t) on the table. The fence t-tracks are also for the stop blocks. I need to make some more stop blocks for the table. I've been installing stop blocks on the fence but have't been overjoyed with that.


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## Phaedrus

jschaben said:


> My fence is pretty simple, but functional. It's a double split with the lower fence faces a little over 3" and the center ones about 1-1/2". Dust collection is handled though the little "dog house" on the back of the fence and a hole in the table top down to plumbing in the router compartment. All exiting through a 2-1/2" fitting on the left end of the table. The lower fence faces are secured with the cam locks and the center faces with the large wing nuts. The lower faces are interchangeable and I have couple of zero clearance and a jointing infeed fence for it. I use featherboards a lot so have the t-track on the fence and combo(miter+t) on the table. The fence t-tracks are also for the stop blocks. I need to make some more stop blocks for the table. I've been installing stop blocks on the fence but have't been overjoyed with that.


I haven't seen a three-section fence design like this before. This seems like it would add a lot of flexibility to the whole assembly. For jointing operations, are you swapping out for different faces all together or do you have spacers that you are putting behind the fence faces?


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## knotscott

My router fence is currently attached to the other side of my TS fence. It's an HTC attachment made for the HTC, Xacta II, and Accufence. It's convenient, is extra long, and works well, but makes the whole fence heavier. Having both fences combined also means that it's more cumbersome to to switch back and forth between tools.


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## Phaedrus

knotscott said:


> My router fence is currently attached to the other side of my TS fence. It's an HTC attachment made for the HTC, Xacta II, and Accufence. It's convenient, is extra long, and works well, but makes the whole fence heavier. Having both fences combined also means that it's more cumbersome to to switch back and forth between tools.


I see that you have melamine particle board for a table surface without any edging. Have you had any problems with chipping edges/durability issues? 

What are the faces on your fence made of? It looks like some kind of plastic composite.

I have considered a combo fence situation, but I think that I want for my router fence to be perpendicular to the TS fence so that I can feed long stock onto the surface of the TS. Is this a bad idea?


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## knotscott

There is some edge banding along the front edge where I stand, but I haven't had much chip out....there's one little corner nick on the left side that you can see. Edge banding would be better all the way around, but it really hasn't been a problem, so I haven't "fixed it". 

The original faces were ply, and they were warped. I replaced them with some PVC pieces I had. They're stable and smooth. 

Running the fence perpendicular will give you more capacity, but your TS fence will have to be removed or slid well out of the way if your RT will be mounted on your TS. There are pros and cons to everything.


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## jschaben

Phaedrus said:


> I haven't seen a three-section fence design like this before. This seems like it would add a lot of flexibility to the whole assembly. For jointing operations, are you swapping out for different faces all together or do you have spacers that you are putting behind the fence faces?


I don't know that 3-section adds a lot of flexibility, I've only needed to open it a couple of times. The fence came with the table. About the only thing about the table that didn't get major reconstrunction shortly upon arrival. If someone tries to sell you an ADRONI table, just shoot 'em.
For jointing I just swap out the infeed face, it's 1/64" thinner so no shims required. Zero clearance, I swap in a standard thickness outfeed fence and swap infeeds to match the bit.:smile:


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## Dejure

*Another For the Fray*

Since no one posted a photo of one, here is a picture of the Freud router table fence. It normally has a plastic, protective cover, but this one has been removed and carefully stored somewhere I can't find it.

I like the ease of adjustment of the two fences, the solid construction and the vacuum port.

This one is set up with extra mounting holes with T nuts mounted from the underside of the table. The large T bolts allow you to quickly reposition the fence to another set of holes.

I will be adding a track system in the not-to-distant future.


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## jschaben

Dejure said:


> Since no one posted a photo of one, here is a picture of the Freud router table fence. It normally has a plastic, protective cover, but this one has been removed and carefully stored somewhere I can't find it.
> 
> I like the ease of adjustment of the two fences, the solid construction and the vacuum port.
> 
> This one is set up with extra mounting holes with T nuts mounted from the underside of the table. The large T bolts allow you to quickly reposition the fence to another set of holes.
> 
> I will be adding a track system in the not-to-distant future.


 
Is that a new(er) fence. I looked at the Freud fence some time ago and it seemed the slots for adjusting it went the other way (parallel to the faces). Didn't make sense to me so I passed on it. I liked the micro adjustable independent faces.:smile:


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## Phaedrus

The Freud looks really nice. I have been window shopping it for a while. A few weeks ago there was a used one on Amazon for a little under $70. I should have jumped on that!

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## Sorrowful Jones

Here's one I just built.


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## Phaedrus

If I build one instead of buying, that is probably what mine will look a bit like. How well does the dust collection work? With the split fence, it should do pretty well. Also, do you have just the dust collection on the fence or below the table as well?

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## Sorrowful Jones

It works pretty well. I might could have made the hole slightly bigger. I made sure I sealed around the plastic dust port (in the back) so I didn't have any air being drawn in from around the edges. I do not have a port in the bottom as yet.


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## Dejure

I've had this Freud for four or five years. Interestingly, I got it at Lowe's. It was around two hundred.


___________________________


jschaben said:


> Is that a new(er) fence. I looked at the Freud fence some time ago and it seemed the slots for adjusting it went the other way (parallel to the faces). Didn't make sense to me so I passed on it. I liked the micro adjustable independent faces.:smile:


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## jschaben

Dejure said:


> I've had this Freud for four or five years. Interestingly, I got it at Lowe's. It was around two hundred.
> 
> 
> ___________________________


I dunno - memory ain't what it used to be. That's becoming a real sleeper deal in router fences... going for under $100 most places I've looked. I probably won't be changing my fence, I've gotten used to it.:smile:


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## jharris2

Ditto on the Freud. It's separate fences slide side to side to accommodate different diameter bits and are independently micro-adjustable forward and back to allow jointing. $50.00 at a garage sale. 

The other one is from Rockler and I got it for an extra $10.00 when I bought a Dewalt planer from Craigslist.

It doesn't have a micro adjuster so I bought one of these:

http://www.rockler.com/m/product.cfm?page=22490

Sorry about the dupe pics. App issues!


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## Phaedrus

jharris2 said:


> Ditto on the Freud. It's separate fences slide side to side to accommodate different diameter bits and are independently micro-adjustable forward and back to allow jointing. $50.00 at a garage sale.
> 
> The other one is from Rockler and I got it for an extra $10.00 when I bought a Dewalt planer from Craigslist.
> 
> It doesn't have a micro adjuster so I bought one of these:
> 
> http://www.rockler.com/m/product.cfm?page=22490
> 
> Sorry about the dupe pics. App issues!


That Rockler fence looks like their $90 fence that is on sale (and of course sold out) for $50. Looks like it is worth $50, but definitely not $90. Do you still use both or is the Freud your go-to fence for everything now?

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## jharris2

The Freud is my go to fence but that may be because I had it first and I'm used to its features. 

If you can get a good price on it I highly recommend it.

I bought the Rockler fence for convenience. I have a second router top that I use in the field on a Black and Decker workmate. I set t-track on this top to accept the Freud fence and re-drilled the Rockler fence for the same configuration.

I can use either fence on either table.

This is handy for routing two set-up profiles. I can run the first cut and the second by moving from my primary table to my portable.

The Freud fence can be used for jointing without the relative hassle of shimming the outfeed side of the fence. I have a bench top jointer so this is a feature that I've never used. 
If you have limited shop space and have no immediate pans to purchase a jointer the Freud or another fence with independently micro-adjustable indeed/outfeed fences is probably your best bet.

I tend to to keep my machines dedicated to a particular operation during a project. I set every machine up using test pieces then move through the project leaving my set- ups alone.

This way if I make my cuts and screw up I can run new stock without the hassle if resetting my machines as opposed to figuring in waste or running stock that will end up in the scrap pile or fireplace.

Also and for instance when milling profiles I can move from jointer to router tables to table saw to jointer and so on without resets on the machines.

Bottom line.... buy the Freud fence if you have no plans to buy a jointer.

My recommendation is to buy a moderately priced fence with side to side infeed/outfeed fence adjustments to accommodate different diameter bits, buy or make a micro adjuster and buy a bench top jointer like mine:

http://www.portercable.com/Products/CategoryOverview.aspx?catPath=4272.6180.6187.6245

Also see:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/bench-top-jointer-25681/


Pease keep us posted

Jeff


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## Jory

*Festool Router Table Fence*

Check this one out. I don't have the web site for it but you can either find it at festool.com or Popular Woodworking had a video showing someone reviewing it. (I think) It is very expensive but well thought out and most features could be incorporated in a home made fence with a little careful planning.
John


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## Phaedrus

Dave Paine said:


> I have an Incra fence with a table top purchased from Woodpeckers mounted on a home made table.
> 
> This is the Incra fence.
> 
> http://www.incra.com/product_rtf_lsstandard.htm
> 
> This is a picture of my table.
> 
> View attachment 54970
> 
> 
> I have added a two piece sacrificial MDF fence. The Incra fence has a small hole, but this is really designed for small and straight router bits.
> 
> The sacrificial fence is 2 pieces of 3/4in MDF. This works for most things, except when I need to use a slot cutter. This picture is when I was using the slot cutter bit and needed to clamp another piece of plywood so that the slot cutter would be clear of the aluminium Incra fence.
> 
> The two piece sacrificial fence allows me to keep the fence as close to the router bit as possible, and will not damage the bit if the fence gets too close.
> 
> The main features I wanted with the Incra fence were accuracy and repeatability. Incra and Jessem were the two companies I looked at. I happened to spring for the Incra at a Woodworking show.
> 
> Incra positioner uses plastic engagements. Jessem uses metal engagements. I have not found the plastic to be a problem. The engagement is increments of 1/32in.
> 
> The mechanism is very solid when clamped. Clamping/unclamping is a second. Setup for a given depth of cut is very fast.
> 
> Prior to the Incra I had a Delta Router/Shaper. This had a split fence which was what I call "nudge and clamp" method. I got tired of the time it took me to get the fence set as needed. I was very frustrated if I later found I needed to re-cut a piece. It took even more time to try and repeat the exact setting. I gave away the Router/Shaper once I got the Incra fence.
> 
> I have been happy with the Incra fence. Mine is the 16in long version. I have never used all this length. I could have saved some money with the 12in version, but this is with hindsight.
> 
> The Incra has the rules in the metal rail, so setting a depth for the fence is just reading off on a rule. There are 3 rules, so easy to set one for "zero" and the other for the final depth setting. I normally take a few passes when routing.
> 
> My table top is only 27in wide. I would like this to be wider at times.
> 
> The positioner needs space at the back.
> 
> I would have considered an Incra table saw fence, but I do not have the space for the positioner.


I have been reading about the Incra positioners and their use for dovetail/box joints. Dave, have you used yours for this? 

I was looking at the 



 fence system on Amazon. At only $150, it seems like a bargain--especially if it can be an effective joinery system. 

Most of the reviews online suggest that it is cumbersome and slow for joinery, but there are some Incra videos online that suggest otherwise.


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## Phaedrus

*GLOAT: Got a deal on a fence*

Well, I got a fence. It was more expensive than I wanted, but I was somehow able to rationalize it. I got the Incra LS17WFNCSYS 17-Inch Range LS Super System with the Wonder Fence and Template Guide Library. All told, with tax, $190. If I take my time and set it up correctly, it should be able to do some pretty fancy joinery--so that's how I rationalized it to myself. :thumbsup:

Proof that it happened:

















Since I don't have a super long router table like this would normally be used with, my plan is to attach the positioner to a piece of 3/4" plywood or melamine particle board. The smaller "Ultra Lite" positioner is commonly shown with a setup like this and simply clamped to the working surface, be it a router table, drill press, etc. 










Since my router table is a TS extension, I plan to have the board under the positioner held in place with something like this Rockler Miter Track Hardware Kit.

I'm excited to get this thing set up, but it will be on the back burner for a little bit.:blink::huh: After all, I have a mallet to work on!:yes::yes:


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## jharris2

Big congrats man, That is a sweet setup.

Remember, no pics, you never took it out of the box, set it up or used it.

Trust but verify!!!


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## Phaedrus

jharris2 said:


> Big congrats man, That is a sweet setup.
> 
> Remember, no pics, you never took it out of the box, set it up or used it.
> 
> Trust but verify!!!


I will document setting it up whenever I get a chance to do it. I did open the box for a little proof, but there will be better pics and more proof soon!

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## Phaedrus

Here is a teaser photo. I assembled the fence and positioner, but I am still waiting for my miter slot hardware to get here to mount the thing to my TS. More to come...

Also, the 2 DVDs that came with explaining the joinery kit should keep me busy in the mean time...

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## jharris2

That's looking great. Thanks for the update.


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## Phaedrus

*Incra LS 17 Super System finally set up!*

Well, I got my Rockler miter track hardware kit and built a melamine particle board adapter for the LS positioner last week. The hardware kit worked as I had expected it to and locks solid to the saw. One of the brackets was more snug that the other, so I had to attack it with some fine sand paper until it was a better fit. I routed a 1/8" deep inset area for the base of the LS to sit in as the full 3/4" height of the board was too tall for the fence to still touch. I purchased six 1 1/2" 1/4-20 counter sunk Phillips machine screws to attach the LS from the bottom of the board into 1/4-20 nuts in the t-tracks on the bottom of the LS positioner. The whole assembly is square and solid when the t-track mounting is tightened down. 

I did a test of the joinery procedure with some 4 1/2" wide 4/4 cherry. I made a small 6" square box with half blind dovetails with a 14 degree 1/2" MLCS dovetail bit. The results were really quite tight, especially considering I don't have a planer and was using rough cut wood that I had just quickly ripped to size. I am also excited about using the Wonder Fence as a jointer. I hadn't done that to the edges of the boards that I used for this test since I had already installed the dovetail bit, centered the template, and set the depth--but will play with it soon.

I have an aluminum miter track installed in my router extension that I had hoped to be able to affix the positioner to and use for precision cuts on my TS blade. Unfortunately, my router extension must not be perfectly flat way out on the end where my miter track is. When I install the positioner on the router extension track, the fence is not flat against the table like it should be . I could use the positioner to the left of the blade since I have 3 miter tracks left of the blade, but I would have a pretty limited rip capacity and would not be able to cut any bevels for safety reasons. Ultimately, the solution for this is probably just to get the Incra Rail/Base kit and attach the LS that way. I'd still need to rebuild or fix the router exentsion to make it flat, but at least the rails would give a solid level reference point. At this point, that solution is a pipe dream. Even with a 10% off coupon from Incramental Tools, the kit is still $250+ shipped and frankly not in the cards right now. 

So far I am very happy with the LS 17 Super System and proud of the $190 (with tax) that I was able to snag it for. I look forward to playing with some more joinery templates and getting more comfortable with the general usage and features. The instructions are very well written, if not a little dry, but the DVD included shows clearly how to safely and correctly adjust and use the system. More work to come, I'm sure!:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Phaedrus

Yup, still talking to myself in this thread. I just wanted to upload some more pictures as I used out the Wonder Fence today for some jointing for the first time and was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked...and how well the DC aspect of it worked! Sure, it is effectively a 1 1/8" jointer, but that covers my edge jointing needs most of the time. I used a 23/32" CMT straight bit for this operation. I ran some curly cherry and some squirrelly walnut through, both cut smootly and look good.


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## jharris2

That's a beautiful setup Phaed.

You may be limited to 1" stock when using your RT as a jointer but maybe not.

It may be possible to joint 2" stock by making the first pass then flipping the stock end-for-end and keeping the un-jointed portion to the infeed fence and the stock flat to the table for a second cut.

If this method works for you, you might be able to joint stock even thicker than two inches by using longer bits.


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## Phaedrus

jharris2 said:


> That's a beautiful setup Phaed.
> 
> You may be limited to 1" stock when using your RT as a jointer but maybe not.
> 
> It may be possible to joint 2" stock by making the first pass then flipping the stock end-for-end and keeping the un-jointed portion to the infeed fence and the stock flat to the table for a second cut.
> 
> If this method works for you, you might be able to joint stock even thicker than two inches by using longer bits.


That is a good thought. I would have to build some fences with more bit clearance...or just spread the halves. I have been keeping my eyes open for a longer bit of decent quality but have not seen much.

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