# router table newbie question



## rschell (Apr 1, 2013)

I bought a router table and mounted a ryobi router to it. The problem is I can't raise it enough to get the flush trim bit to have roller exposed. the project I'm working on (my first since high school) had me make a pattern jig that is under workpiece. Can I buy longer bits or any ideas to help me. Rex


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*need a few more details*

A photo would help also.
Normally a router mounted right under the table should have the collet project flush or slightly below the surface. If you remove the plastic base that came on the router that will gain you about 1/4".

Is there a removable insert where the collet is? Show is where you are at with all this. :blink:


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## rschell (Apr 1, 2013)

*thanks*

Thankyou for the advice woodnthings. I took off spacer and had to redrill a couple holes to fix my router but just gives enought clearance for flush trim. will likely have to use 1/4" stock for other jigs which is fine..Glad I found this site ,I think I'll be using more as I get going.:thumbsup:


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## gimmodog (Feb 3, 2013)

you can also get collet extensions, this is where I got mine.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...ter_collet.html?zoom_highlight=bit+extensions


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

rschell Welcome to the site and you will find lots of good advise here, but woodnthings said - pictures would be good. Since you are a declared newbie, did you know that the bit should not bottom out in the router chuck. It's a good idea to back it off about an eight of an inch from the bottom.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

You didn't say which Ryobi. If it's a plunge router, make sure it isn't bottoming out on the turret or plunge stop rod.


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

Not sure how long your flush trim bit is but you can get pretty long bits. I thing mine is 2 1/2 inches long with a double bearing on the end. They are not that expensive as router bits goes. Maybe $20 for a good one.


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## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

BernieL said:


> rschell Welcome to the site and you will find lots of good advise here, but woodnthings said - pictures would be good. Since you are a declared newbie, did you know that the bit should not bottom out in the router chuck. It's a good idea to back it off about an eight of an inch from the bottom.


i'm a complete newbie myself. any particular reason why i should avoid doing this with my router? its a dewalt dw616 and i really like it. i bought the starter set of MLCS Bits and they are seeming great, no problems yet, but i'd like it to stay that way. thanks again for the help.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

srestrepo said:


> i'm a complete newbie myself. any particular reason why i should avoid doing this with my router? its a dewalt dw616 and i really like it. i bought the starter set of MLCS Bits and they are seeming great, no problems yet, but i'd like it to stay that way. thanks again for the help.


On many carbide tipped router bits, there is a small portion of the shank, right next to where the cutting edges start, that may be slightly larger than the shank proper. If your bit is down all the way, the collet may try to grip that slightly larger diameter resulting in a poor grip. Pulling the bit up slightly avoids the issue. :smile:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Care has to be taken in how far a bit is pulled out of the collet. In order to get more length, it's tempting to extend the shank too far. For the best performance, the shank should be as deep into the collet as possible without bottoming out.









 







.


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## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

that's how i've been doing. it was obvious that the painted part and right before the cutter edges start was smidge wider so i usually drop it in the collet and pull it up until i see 1/8th in of bare metal. so this is perfect. thanks everyone.


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