# Found my first Stanley Bailey for a ?decent price?



## ntrusty (Feb 21, 2012)

Found this in a flea market for $15. From the type chart I found its a Type 19 1948- 61. Someone please correct me if im wrong and let me know if this was a decent price. ive got it cleaned up and there are no cracks, chips, etc... most of the Jappaning is still there and the handles are solid. rust free, i havent taken it to sand paper yet but will soon. Thanks.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

You did ok guy!! 

I have several Stanley Bailey planes and a couple of Wards Master Planes that I think are made by Stanley. These are type 11 through type 16. Also I have a 605 Bed Rock. 

My attitude is that, properly sharpened and tuned, they all perform well. The biggest difference happens when you upgrade to a Hock or Pinnacle Iron. 

Others will disagree, but a plane is just a fancy device for holding a chisel. Some planesare easier to adjust and tune than others, but the work is done by the chisel!


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## ntrusty (Feb 21, 2012)

Thanks, Ill try that, the iron on this one has some pitting about 1/4inch up so its only going to be useful for awhile. I may go ahead and get a new iron and use the current one as a backup/spare. Question, are the Hock or Pinnacle Irons of a better quality than an older Stanley/ Sargant/ etc... thats in really good condition. The reason I ask is bc i have a couple older chisels that seem to hold an edge better and longer than my newer ones. Wasnt sure if the same applies to planes. Of course my new ones could just be cheap junk chisels anyway.  Thanks


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

I've not had a problem with Stanley irons. The reason that I like the after market irons is that they are thicker; therefore, stiffer and better resist chatter. 

From what I understand, Stanley always had a history of using pretty good steel.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Good find.

Yes, the Hock & Pinnacle Irons are far better than the older OEM blades. They are both harder and thicker meaning finer edge, longer edge retention and less chatter. The hock and other similar cap irons are also very good upgrades for good fit at the chip breaker edge (preventing shaving from wedging between them) and it's also thicker meaning again less chatter plus more mass.

As Wrangler said, it's a chisel jig and they can all be tuned to perform. Generally the heavier the plane the better performing. The biggest performance game changers in a tune up is, in my opinion:

1) A sharp iron and improved cap iron. 
2) Flattening the sole. 
3) proper adjustment of the mouth.

Of course this leaves out the user tuning such as iron depth.

There also a few ways to clean the rust while leaving some of the pleasant patina behind if you intend to 'restore' it.


EDIT :smile: well, once again I should'a just waited a few minutes, eh Wrangler? :laughing:
I can't believe it took me over 6 min to type that 

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"


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## ntrusty (Feb 21, 2012)

firemedic said:


> Good find.
> 
> Yes, the Hock & Pinnacle Irons are far better than the older OEM blades. They are both harder and thicker meaning finer edge, longer edge retention and less chatter. The hock and other similar cap irons are also very good upgrades for good fit at the chip breaker edge (preventing shaving from wedging between them) and it's also thicker meaning again less chatter plus more mass.
> 
> ...


thanks for the info. I intend to restore it as far as getting it in good shape to use, so Ill more or less leave it alone except for getting the sole good and flat. This forum has been a Godsend so far, since Im still extremely new to woodworking, and my friends who are involved in this craft are only slightly more experienced than myself. Thanks.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

ntrusty said:


> thanks for the info. I intend to restore it as far as getting it in good shape to use, so Ill more or less leave it alone except for getting the sole good and flat. This forum has been a Godsend so far, since Im still extremely new to woodworking, and my friends who are involved in this craft are only slightly more experienced than myself. Thanks.


This is a great place to hang out around the water cooler :smile: 

I should have mentioned, the upgraded iron really isn't s MUST, it's more of a luxury. So don't feel like there is any urgency to getting them. Just know they do perform better. You'll know when you are ready to upgrade after you've fully mastered squeezing every bit of performance possible out of the original irons.

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

firemedic said:


> Good find.
> 
> 1) A sharp iron and improved cap iron.
> 2) Flattening the sole.
> ...


I'll add a note to #3. Make sure the front edge of the mouth is square to the sole. My smoother would tear out on difficult grain. Found that after 100 years, the shavings slightly rounded that edge. After I filed it flat and square, I moved the frog forward a bit to take up the space. Much better support on the wood fibers = cleaner planning.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I would throw in my two cents also, and the advise above is great. I think that's a good find for $15 bucks and it'll make a good plane. I know you mentioned Hock and IBC Pinnacle. I'd also throw out Lie Nielsen and Veritas plane irons, not the ones for their planes, the ones they make for old Stanley's. I have the Veritas iron and chip breakers in my old Stanley #4 and #7 and they work much better than the original. They are available in O1 steel (softer and closer to Stanley's carbon steel blades) and A2 which is much harder. I have the A2's and they hold their edge fantastic. They come flat and the chip break mates perfectly to the iron. They are also made not so thick that you have to file the mouth like with the Pinnacle. This allows you to keep the the mouth correct for both your aesthetics of not modifying an old plane, and you get to use the original iron too. If you get a second set you can sharpen the irons differently. You can set one iron/chip breaker up for smoothing or jointing tasks and the other up for roughing fore plane type work. Or any other combination you want. That way you have two planes in one. Of course, since you bought one many more are to follow (trust me they are), so that may not even be a concern, but performance wise, the upgraded irons/chip breakers rock.


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## ntrusty (Feb 21, 2012)

So ive finally got around to doing a restore on this #5. Ive flatten the sole and sides, took the iron and chipbreaker to the brass wheel on the grinder. Im still working on getting the frog cleaned up and stripping whats left of the japanning off. So far its just flaking off, however some of it is in hard to get places and still bonded well. Ive had brake cleaner and paint thinner recommended to me to take the rest off. Any other suggestions or are those the best options.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That was a very nice deal on a good plane. Looks like you're well on your way to restoring it. 

The stock blades will actually work pretty well if they're sharp. Not as good as a good aftermarket blade, but will certainly work well enough that you won't feel that you urgently need to get it replaced. 

Keep the pics coming! :thumbsup:


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## ntrusty (Feb 21, 2012)

knotscott said:


> That was a very nice deal on a good plane. Looks like you're well on your way to restoring it.
> 
> The stock blades will actually work pretty well if they're sharp. Not as good as a good aftermarket blade, but will certainly work well enough that you won't feel that you urgently need to get it replaced.
> 
> Keep the pics coming! :thumbsup:


After cleaning the rust off the blade its got some pitting that may cause an issue with getting it sharp. Wont know till i try and grind it though.


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