# Once turned wet bowl



## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

So I typically rough out my bowls let them dry and then later re turn them. I have seen some neat results though from just turning the wet wood thin and letting the bowl morph into what it wishes to be as it dries. As long as it is thin enough to not crack I won't care on these how they warp. My question is about finish. Would you let them dry and basically finish deforming before applying a finish or would you apply the finish while the wood is still quite green? Lets say : 1) A nice simple walnut oil finish,
and 2) a more sealing finish like shellac, varnish or watco


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

If you turn it thin, one eighth to one quarter inch, then it will probably be dry in a day or two if not immediately. Spinning on a lathe and sanding are enough to dry out thin wood fairly fast. If it is a bit thicker, then add a fee more days.

If the wood is not completely dry, the end grain will fuzz up a bit so it is better to wait and then knock down the raised grain before finishing.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

typically I let the bowl dry and warp before sanding and finishing. I have experimented with sanding green bowls using Abranet sandpaper. It looks like wire screen and works pretty well. I have also experimented with sort of flash drying the outer surfaces with a hair dryer and it sort of works and you can use regular sandpaper but it's just a pain and occasionally I got some surface checking.
I never finish green wood. As Bill said if you turn it to 3/8" or less it dry in a few days to a week. I usually sand these warped bowls with the lathe off. I use my index wheel on the lathe to lock it in various positions to make sanding easier.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Thank you both. 
Yes I like the abranet for this too. I was just curious as I turned a walnut bowl sanded to 320 and then put walnut oil on it. 
Then when all done thought hmmmm maybe I should have waited. It is an 11" bowl 1/4" thick.
I'll wait next time.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

There probably wasn't much moisture left by the time that you finished turning it. Oil is more forgiving than a film finish and any remaining moisture will probably be gone before the oil is fully cured. The biggest issue in your case will probably be some end grain needing to be sanded, but with an oil finish that is not a big deal. If necessary, a light sanding can be done after the oil is cured and then another light application of oil.


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## 9thousandfeet (Dec 28, 2014)

I've had good luck with letting them dry, then sanding them out much the same way John describes above, then finishing with Waterlox. 
I often then carefully and lightly buff the fully dried Waterlox (three days drying, say) with tripoli to get a low-sheen satin finish.

I don't use Waterlox on general utility ware pieces like salad bowls and such, preferring walnut oil for them, but a super-thin and warped piece is better suited to dry goods if it's used in a utilitarian way, and is not suitable for being washed in hot soapy water after being used for mashed potatoes anyway.

I'm not skilled enough to accurately predict how the piece will eventually look when it's finally dried, and sometimes I find the eventual warped form is not very pleasing to me, so I always wait for them to dry before investing time in finishing.


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## Bonanza35 (Jan 20, 2011)

I turn, sand, and oil bowls just like that on a regular basis. I prefer to sand before taking them off the lathe because I like the piece to be complete (substantially) when I turn out the lights. I use Abranet and usually start sanding immediately unless it's sopping wet, in which case I just wait a few minutes until it hazes over a bit. On rare occasion I will touch it up after it dries but with the woods I work with it usually isn't necessary. 
I agree that any film finish should be applied after the bowl is good and dry and final sanding is done. Pure hardening oils like walnut or tung take so long to cure that I don't see a problem with applying them immediately to help slow down the drying process. I reapply everyday until wood movement has stabilized and it is pretty well saturated with oil. 
Now let's see some pics!


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