# Miter or Cope Crown?



## AndersonsWoodworks (Jan 7, 2010)

A previous post brought up a question I have often wondered about. How many of you miter an inside corner of crown and how many cope? 

For me it depends on the length and detail of the piece of crown. Shorter pieces I might cope. However, since I do all my work by myself it is easier for me to fit the longer crown pieces with a mitered end. What works for you?


----------



## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I find it easier to cope crown and I do most of it by myself also. I like the fact that I can cut it a hair long then bow it out a hair as I put it up then as it goes tight against the wall it puts good pressure on the cope closing up any gap you might have.


----------



## AndersonsWoodworks (Jan 7, 2010)

Julian, since you work by yourself, how do you measure for a long length of crown with coped ends? I do the same as you with the shorter lengths.


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I prefer coping inside corners also AW. I too work by myself. For longer measurements, I measure from each corner to a mark I make in the middle and add the two together. I usually make the mark during the first measurement and make it on a whole foot. Then measure from the other corner and add them up, adding a little for springing the board in. 
Mike Hawkins


----------



## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

I cope almost all of my inside corners. The exception being the occasional very small room, like a bathroom. 

I do all of my installations by myself, and I started using a laser measure a couple years ago. I tried the Bosch at first, and it wasn't accurate enough. I am currently using the Leica D3, and it is consistently accurate within 1/64".


----------



## pappagor (Jan 13, 2008)

i cope all of my crown that is wood and that goes on the walls some of the foam stuff you just can not cope. 
to get the lenght of the crown i nail a scrap of wood to the wall an hock my tape to it then measure to lower end of the crown add a 1/8 for a tight fight. i all so work alone most of the time and find it better to cope


----------



## Johnny Yuma (Jul 14, 2009)

I cope everything I can.
Looks better and fits better. Looks better over time too.


----------



## Fyrzowt (Jul 3, 2008)

mwhafner said:


> I cope almost all of my inside corners. The exception being the occasional very small room, like a bathroom.
> 
> I do all of my installations by myself, and I started using a laser measure a couple years ago. I tried the Bosch at first, and it wasn't accurate enough. I am currently using the Leica D3, and it is consistently accurate within 1/64".


 Does the laser also measure in metric?


----------



## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mwhafner*
> _I cope almost all of my inside corners. The exception being the occasional very small room, like a bathroom.
> 
> ...


Most of the mid-priced units will, but check the specs. The Leica will measure in feet/inches, inches, or metric. 

Another feature that is handy, especially for estimating trim jobs, is the ability to calculate square footage (and volume) instantly.


----------



## donxoh (Jan 28, 2010)

I've always coped (with few exceptions--one being smaller kit. cabinet crown with space above to cross pin nail the miter from behind - with glue.)
So often wall corners are slightly off 90 that a miter may not let the 2 pieces come together with a tight fit. Caulking not applicable if stained.
An alternative that I like and have used often is inside corner blocks with 2 short return pieces of crown below the block.  They make-up quick and easy.


----------



## BIGVIN (Jul 21, 2009)

I'm a cabinet installer and I cope all wall crown and miter cabinet crown.


----------



## craftsman 20/20 (Jan 30, 2010)

I agree with Bigvin about wall crown being coped and cabinet crown being mitered on cabinet crown I back cut my fits slightly so the front side of the cut fit tite glue and pin together some times before placing on cabinet most cabinet work is stable enough for a mite fit to last. On the other hand wall crown in most cases the wall is a slightly less stable surface and a cope is a better options for movement especially on truss-lift repairs . I also work alone and find that if I leave the last 2'-3' unailed it allow-es the crown to move to the cope when you bow spring it into place makeing a nice tite fit.


----------



## stevenj (Aug 8, 2010)

*Miter or coped crown*

I like to cope the left end of inside corners when I do crown molding. One day some years back, I got the brainstorm of cutting all four lengths first and installing them one after the other. After accurately measuring each of four walls, at the ceiling, by measuring in from one corner and marking a whole number, then measuring back to it for a precise measurement. I wrote the measurement under where the crown could cover it. My chop box was in the room, and I could visually read the measurements and also stay focused on the cuts I was making, upside down in the chop box. I labeled the back with it's number, 1-4. The first wall was butt on both ends, the next two were cope and butt, and the last wall was two copes. To my joy, they went in like butta. I also like to make light pencil marks on the wall about every 5 feet using a scrap of the crown. I can see both sides of the scrap and place it flat against the wall and ceiling. When I follow the line and adjust while nailing, the corners are always at the same height. Try it sometime, real quick.


----------



## craftsman jay (Jun 26, 2010)

Stevenj, welcome to the site. Could of been me writing that same post. Nicely done. 

Oh, the Bosch seems to work fine for me.


----------



## stevenj (Aug 8, 2010)

Thanks much Craftsman J, it's good to be among one's peers in a craft that I will never tire of learning after 33 years.


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

First post(nice site).........coping is your "default" method.There are some slight advantages of both;cope vs mitre.For instance coping is very innefficient on pediments @peak.Also on very short sections;shallow returns on a boxed out or paneled cornice.These are typ. 3/4" long pcs. The nice part is they can usually be bench assembled and fastened from backside.Also when moulding gets really large,church cornices,mitres sometimes get the nod.........just remember coping is the default,but not the end-all.Best of luck,BW


----------



## sirrom (Jan 14, 2009)

I also cope unless a small piece is required for walls, cabs are mitered. for long runs I use a #4 nail tight in the corner to hook my tape on. to hold the piece while I'm working with it ill put a small nail on the chalk line on the wall i snap and one at the ceiling tight to the top of the crown. both about mid length of the piece. I also use a small block with wall and ceiling marks for top and bottom of crown and cut the inside corner off the block in case ceiling and wall are not at a 90*


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

sirrom,thats a great tip......we call'm "hang nails".And use them exactly like you described.Another place besides "midspan" is when pullin a measure from an already installed pc.IOWs,you can set a hangnail at exist. "shortpoint" which will translate to next pcs,longpoint....and takeoff from there.

Just like cope vs mitre........field joints raise some questions WRT type of joint.90* bevel....bevel on the bias...and believe it or not there are times when a butt joint gets the nod.And I think,most importantly is.....where?

One thing I've noticed over the years is how "Std" or "best practices" evolve.Yeah,deep subject....but my experience has been when discussing,Crown for this discussion,that the widths are usually limited.IOWs whats the most commonly used widths?We routinely run 6" stuff........get into church world and 6" barely gets us past halfway.So,where's your sliding XYZ mitre bx now?Shoot,I've done coves in excess of 3 feet.Please don't take this as any sort of "puffin" up....instead,THINK;how would you cut/engineer crown way outside the norm in width?BW


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

BWSmith said:


> Shoot,I've done coves in excess of 3 feet.


 
Interesting, do you have any pictures?


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

mdntrdr,this is gonna be so foreign an idea that most won't understand.I don't even know how to use a cell phone...much less own one.Only reason we have a computer is because of the youngin's.The word "duh" perfectly describes my digital/computer skills..........Now if you ever find yourself in need of hand done DT's or hand planed raised panels,carving.....heck,I've done a decent biz of potrait art for people.

So much of my work is in/on public buildings that most potential customers already knew of the work or could simply go look at it.BW


----------



## woodjoiner (Aug 20, 2010)

Hey Everybody
I am fairly new to the forum. As I was reading the posts. I read the question about, how do you measure long walls? Well I always work by myself and found it very easy to get a light, as in not heavy piece of trim or something laying around and cut it to exactly 100" long then stand towards the middle of the room or at 100"s from one corner and put a mark at the end of the stick, then measure from the other corner and simply add that 100"s to it. This method is very easy for my brain dead self to keep up with. Hope this helps someone, and happy woodworking.


----------



## Lew Ross (Mar 3, 2011)

*Miter or Cope Crown? I always cope inside corners*

I prefer to cope all inside corners, no mater what type of trim I'm working with, crown, base, chair rail all of it. The corners are rarely 90 degrees but coping and back cutting will allow the face to fit tight anyway, I also like to pressure fit most all my trim.

Lew Ross artisan-woodworking-plans.com


----------

