# Bookcase design - help needed



## Lizzie_Neill (May 16, 2010)

I am currently redecorating my living room, and I want to put in a long run of bookcases. These will run the length of one wall, and in the alcoves either side of the chimney breast. I would like to make a good job of this project, and build the bookcases to last.

I have an idea about what I would like, and I would appreciate it if anyone could comment on my design and choice of materials. (My woodworking skills are basic, so I have kept things simple.)


Design:

I am planning a modular design i.e. build individual bookcases, then line them up next to each other along the wall. (The bookcases will stand on an MDF base, to raise them up and allow room for a plinth along the bottom.)

I have attached a file showing what each individual bookcase would look like (not to scale).

The main 'box' will consist of two uprights plus top and bottom pieces, joined together with rabbet joints. The joints will be glued, and screwed from the top and side.

The 'box' will be recessed at the back, and a back panel fitted in. The back panel will be glued, and screwed every 150mm.

Inside the 'box' there will be 5 fixed shelves, joined to the uprights with housing joints. The joints will be glued, and screwed diagonally upwards.


Materials:

I want to use solid oak for everything except the back panels. (I am planning to use oak veneered plywood or MDF for the back panels.) The timber will be 300mm wide and 20mm thick.

Is this feasible? I am very concerned about possible movement of the timber.

Is 300mm too wide for the boards? Will they warp? (When I contacted timber suppliers for quotes, several said that they don't supply that width because it will cup.) Would it be better to use narrower wood joined together (e.g. two pieces 150mm wide) to achieve the 300mm width?

Is the current design right for these materials? I've read about using appropriate joinery techniques that allow for the movement of the wood, but I don't know what these are.



Sorry if that was too much information. I'm just concerned that I will spend a lot of time and money on this project, only to spoil it because of bad design or inappropriate materials.

Many thanks in advance for the help.

Lizzie


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

Your design and sizes and joinery look fine. I would first suggest not to use solid lumber on the cabinet parts or the shelving. You would save money by using Oak plywood and adding a solid wood or veneer tape to the front edges.

Oak plywood will stay more stable, and there won't be any movement issues. You can glue all the joints and including your "housing" joints, which I call dadoes. The backs can be installed in a recessed rabbet and it can be 1/4" plywood, but it doesn't have to be glued in. You can brad nail or staple the back into the recess.

Your assembly can be simplified if you mark the outside of any complete units that will be seen. All the cabinets that stack next to each other, or the sides are hidden by walls, you can shoot a brad nail, or a staple through the ends into the shelves. Or, on the ones with finished ends, you can just glue and clamp the shelves into the dadoes.

You might consider making some of the shelves adjustable. You can simplify your rabbets with the tops and bottoms into the ends by configuring your rabbets like this.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

I agree w/ cabinetman about the plywood but if these are for the long term, I would not use veneer for the faces but rather use sold wood strips at least 1/2" thick with a tongue/groove joint to the edges. Lots more work than veneer but to my mind a much more professional and lasting technique.

I particularly ageee w/ him about making the shelves, or at least some of them, adjustable. If you don't do that you are likely to regret it in the long run.

Also, I don't understand why you would bother to do recesses on the rear panels since they won't be seen. Keep them slightly back from the visible edges and just glue/screw or glue/brad in place.


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