# How to use Stand Linseed Oil?



## applebuilder (May 12, 2009)

Can you make a suitable finish by adding a solvent to unboiled linseed oil?


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## nzgeordie (Apr 25, 2009)

I'm not sure why you would want to add a solvent to linseed oil (boiled or unboiled). Unboiled l.o. has a long drying time while boiled l.o. is a little friendlier and will accept a shellac or lacquer finish. Both are great at 'popping' any grain or figure. I use it as a base/filler under shellac. Be prepared to wait some time before you can apply a final finish though and be sure to wipe-off any excess l.o. as it can form a white crust.


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

No oil only(BLO or Tung) is a good finish. It offers no mechanical or water vapor protection and will actually begin to flake up and fall off in time. Buy some varnish.

Jerry


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I know of boiled and unboiled linseed oil. However, I do not know what is "Stand Linseed Oil."

George


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## applebuilder (May 12, 2009)

I believe "Stand" linseed oil is just another word for unboiled linseed oil. I was hoping that adding a thinner to linseed oil would speed up the drying process. Like nxgeordie said, unboiled linseed oil takes forever to dry.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I believe you are referring to "Stand Oil" There are different types of linseed oil and they are not the same. 

Raw Linseed oil: Crude oil is warmed slightly and allowed to stand in tanks up to two years. A considerable amount of sediment or "foot" settles out and falls to the bottom of the tank. It is inferior in nearly every respect to oil that has been further refined, with the possible exception of its durability under extreme weather conditions when employed in an outside house paint.

Refined Linseed oil: Raw linseed oil is mixed with sulphuric acid and water, which removes the bulk of the undesirable impurities and improves its color. The refined paint-grinding oils range in color from pale straw to golden or golden amber

Stand Oil: When linseed oil is heated to 525-575 degrees F and held at that temperature for a number of hours, an internal change takes place, and the physical and mechanical properties of the resulting product, stand oil, are not the same as those of raw oil. The change is a molecular one, polymerization; nothing is added to the oil and nothing is lost. Stand oil is a heavy, viscous material about the consistency of honey; it may be thinned to a painting consistency by mixing it with several parts of turpentine, the mixture being paler in color than other linseed oils. It is one of the most useful ingredients in varnish and turns very much less yellow with age than raw oil does, and when mixed with other ingredients to a usable consistency, the resulting medium is practically non-yellowing.

Boiled oil: Linseed oil may also be thickened or bodied by an entirely different change, oxidation or combining with oxygen. This is the same process by which the oil dries when exposed to the air, and it results in a product far inferior to stand oil. Oxidized oil is produced by blowing air through the oil, they should not be confused with stand oil. Boiled oil is a misnomer; the oil commonly soldunder this name is not boiled but heated with driers until very slightly thickened.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-stand-oil/


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Rick, that is a very nice primer on linseed oil. Thanks.

George


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## JoshuaHoffman (Nov 22, 2008)

I mix linseed oil with 3 parts turpentine and 3 parts polyurethane satin finish which makes nice hard natural looking finish. Sand, coat with finish, rub, re-coat up to 8 times. See Bubinga top posted. Hope this helps.


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## applebuilder (May 12, 2009)

Thanks for the rundown on linseed oil Rick, very helpful. I'm guessing that makes Stand Oil more expensive, no?


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