# Harbor Freight Tools Band Mill!!



## Oscar

Recently received a flyer from Harbor Freight, which is a regular thing for me. I didn't see at first but yesterday I just happened to notice a small picture with a caption: [Our lowest price ever on this 7HP GAS MILL.] I had no idea nor did I think I'd see the day! Were any of you all aware of this and does anyone have any experience and/or info on it's operation?? I'de curious to hear how long it lasted. My experience with the few "Power tools? things" I've purchased there is mixed. Overall I feel I've got my monies worth but I'd be more than a little concerned at dropping $1699.00, which is really cheap for any mill.


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## Daren

7HP (as you already know having a mill) is not going to take you screaming through a hardwood log...but it will cut, sure 'nuff. A bandblade cuts a heck of alot easier that a chainsaw bar and 7HP is about the tops for the powerheads I see used on those.

If a guy had access to smaller softwood, or I guess hardwood, yep $1700 is cheap. It doesn't say what kind of 7Hp motor, that worries me a little. Will it run 2 years then have to be replaced. 22" max log diameter, again if a guy lived where there where no big ones or never planned on milling anything but little ones I guess that is not a deal breaker. I think those "ripsaw" mills that have been discussed here before are that much money and you have to supply the chainsaw powerhead yourself, so compared to them it looks like a bargain. It runs a 144" x 1 1/4" band, same as my mill.

Overall I imagine a guy would have to do some reinforcing here or there, and some tweaking to suit him...but for the guys running chainsaw mills, lets be honest they have about that kinda money in their setup (if they are able to _really mill_, not just make a bunch of noise and work their butts off doing it)

If I saw one in person I would look at a few things. The way the head is suspended/raises lowers to see if that looks well designed. The way the blade is tensioned, that is important. What kind of motor is it and is it warrantied. How flimsy is the deck (I'm sure it is, but just how bad) setting on a concrete slab would make it better, but I bet any place else it will be a problem. How does the carriage roll down the track, good solid steel wheels ? And lastly off the top of my head just the gauge of steel used on the sawhead.

(Maybe we can talk someone here into buying one...then we will know for sure )


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## johnjf0622

I think I would feel more comfortable paying $3700. for a woodmizer mill. Looks like it is better built then the harbor freight one. just m opinion


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## jeffreythree

I think I would take a chance on one of Hudson's ebay auctions for an Oscar 18 and cap it at that price, first. At least I would know where it came from and what powered it. Or just pay the money for a woodmizer LT10. They are on sale for $3700, the 10HP engine option is discounted to $299, and it stores in a garage. Hmm, do I see a new purchase in my future?


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## Marktrl

Here is a link to the product manual for the saw:
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/99000-99999/99990.pdf


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## TexasTimbers

I would, pardon, I did, buy a used woodmizer. 

I quit buying new trucks in lieu of 2 to 3 year old ones for the same reason. Some things I will not buy used, and although there is never any crystal ball, trucks and sawmills are two things you can buy and not get burned if you do your due diligence. 

Wives too, really. In fact, sometimes the used ones are the best. They were not treated properly or else they would not have been available. Or else they did not treat their ex properly and got dumped. So like used wives, you have to do your due diligence and find out why the guy is unloading the sawmill. 

Many times the reason is that the mill owner is stepping up in size/HP (very common because they discover size does matter), or they have had a decline in health (quite common among mill owners it seems) or else they need money badly (also quite common especially if they took out a loan to get it). 

They do not usually sell a mill because it is a lemon, they get it fixed. But you still need to do plenty of digging on the mill before you buy it. Call the manufacturer with the serial number and find out all you can about it. Pull the dipstick and look and smell the oil. Ask to see his maintenance log. Don't ask if he has one just assume. Pop the radiator cap and look at the coolant. Ask him what the mix is. Hopefully he will say 50/50 or whatever your climate calls for. Feel and sniff to see if he warmed it up before you arrived. In fact, ask him when can you come to see it when it has not been run since the prior day. 

See how well/hard it starts. Look at the hydraulic fluid (if you get one with them) and see if it has any milk. Mill an entire log with it before you buy it. See how accurate it cuts. How it sounds when it runs. Ask him what the quirks are. ALL used mills have some. 

Talk to the owner in person if you can. I could not because I bought my used woodmizer from a guy in Michigan, but I spoke with 3 or 4 other sawyers who knew him personally not just on the forum where i found the mill. They all vouched with a great deal of confidence that his integrity was unimpeachable. Turns out they were right. I got a great deal. He even threw in several hundred blades. Several hundred literally. That was *after* we made the deal. 

Best to buy from an individual and avoid the sawmill brokers IMHO. If you look to the used market, you can get a whole lot more for the same coin. JFYI good luck.


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## jeffreythree

It is hard to find the smaller mills used. Either most of them never get upgraded since they are hobby mills, or hobby buyers don't know where to sell them except locally. I was drooling over a Lucas 618 on the sawmillexchange with 2 track extensions, dedicated slabber, less than 10 hours, for $8900. TT, you did say you could use a slabber sometimes didn't you? To bad it is about double my price range.:icon_cry: Oh well, the longer I can wait the bigger my mill fund gets.:icon_smile: At least I have cut enough wood(barely) to justify the Ripsaw, but the company owner died and I don't think they are in business because the Ripsaw homepage does not work anymore.


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## TexasTimbers

Jeff,

Small mills come on the market all the time. You just have to dig. Check CL daily. They don't last long unless they are over-priced. 

Go to your county shopper website and put in a want ad. Check with manufacturers. Many of them have their own forums on their website and allow you to talk to the owners. Norwood has a fairly active members forum. Many manufacturers also keep a list of their customers who call them wanting to sell their mill. Some manufacturers stay in the middle to make a buck but not all of them do. 

On the swinger, I prefer Peterson over Lucas. I did quite a bit of research and almost pulled the trigger on a Peterson but I decided to wait. I am going to look for a used 10" when I give myself the go-ahead. If I cannot find one with the engine I want I will buy a new one. I have plenty of trees on the stump way too big for the woodmizer and I believe a man could stay busy selling large book-matched Pecan natural edge tables. If not, I'll have fun cutting and making them. :yes:







.


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## Oscar

*Mills,Auto's & Women*

Amazing how guys think! We are rather rational/logical oh' and linear. Afterall they say the shortest distance between two points is a straight line don't they? Too bad I had to go through my "ex" to get my "Present." Life is better than I deserve! 

I am also looking at buying a slabber, we have way too many nice stumps that are monstrosities and are slowly turning into compost and it breaks my heart to see it. But want's are long and cash is short, so it'll have to be an incredible deal to get me to jump! It seems this could be the best time to justify a circular mill. I remeber as a kid watching my Grand-dad and father spinning that 60" blade and just smokin through Oak, Hickory etc... . I'd have too take out a full mortgage on our farmstead to finance a Big-Dog like that!


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## LoggN

I wonder if they'd take the 20% coupon on that?


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## cosine68

*Harbour Freight lumber mill*

Purchased the $1699 mill for hobby use, was expecting something that would need beefing up, seems to be more than expected. Assembled unit and cut 3 logs yesterday (16" to 20" X 12' max)...preliminary judgments:
Good things: 1.The $75 buck shipping actually brought a Central freight semi truck to our very rural front door (Bad? you better be home though, truck did not have a lift unloader, had to unload the 668# angle iron encased shipping box with my tractor forks).
2. It came 90% assembled, 1 hr bolting tracks together (surprise, good heavy angle iron, not the light channel pictured) and another 6 mere bolts for installing the upright guides (different from pic too.. they upgraded to 1 round and 1 square uprights pair), the cutting assembly head was totally ready with blade in place and tracking adjusted. 1 hr leveling, lining, and securing, and was testing on logs same day. The mill was very different from the one pictured in the online owners manual. "Addendum" owner assembly sheets showed new angle iron tracks, new heavier roller assembly, water cooler, motor mounting, guides, and bearing pulley's for the horizontal screw type head lift cable system (another improvement from cable twisting type shown in original online pics)...Bad? That pre-assembled unit was heavy (need lift or two friends with weak minds to get it on the tracks). Spent 10 minutes using an angle grinder to touch up close clearances between the improved heavier roller bearing wheels and the track angle iron cross-braces (a more patient assembler without an impact gun might do better lining up those pre-drilled holes). 
3. Subaru Robin 7 hp steel jug engine. Not a commercial zipping production unit, but cut steady enough for hobby folks on green hard wood, centrifugal clutch seems strong enough. Bad? cheap plastic kill switch, added a heavier one closer to operator.
4. Cut 3 logs into various thickness (1 soft, 2 hard, debarked with Hudson chainsaw attachment), blade tracked true, roughcut 6'-12' boards uniform. Bad? found a 58 cal roundball in the wood my detector missed, wrecked the cheaper original longtooth blade, installed a better .042, 1.3t, 12 footer, re-adjusted blade tracking, guides for thicker blade (10 min) and was going again.. 
5. Was expecting much less, but so far no beefing up to lift assembly or tracking looks needed. We'll see how long the smooth starting Subaru lasts...(another nice thing was the flat plate engine mount...plenty of room all sides to add any engine you might want to upgrade to.) Bad? Now the wife wants her new carpet.


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## Nate1778

Very cool report, any pics or possible vid?


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## cosine68

*pics new hf mill*

Ok, trying to add pics, camera setting is 3 meg per pic max, site wouldn't take that...think I have them compressed...remember, you're dealing with grandpa here...need grandyoungin' assistance for pics if this doesn't work...c


cosine68 said:


> Purchased the $1699 mill for hobby use, was expecting something that would need beefing up, seems to be more than expected. Assembled unit and cut 3 logs yesterday (16" to 20" X 12' max)...preliminary judgments:
> Good things: 1.The $75 buck shipping actually brought a Central freight semi truck to our very rural front door (Bad? you better be home though, truck did not have a lift unloader, had to unload the 668# angle iron encased shipping box with my tractor forks).
> 2. It came 90% assembled, 1 hr bolting tracks together (surprise, good heavy angle iron, not the light channel pictured) and another 6 mere bolts for installing the upright guides (different from pic too.. they upgraded to 1 round and 1 square uprights pair), the cutting assembly head was totally ready with blade in place and tracking adjusted. 1 hr leveling, lining, and securing, and was testing on logs same day. The mill was very different from the one pictured in the online owners manual. "Addendum" owner assembly sheets showed new angle iron tracks, new heavier roller assembly, water cooler, motor mounting, guides, and bearing pulley's for the horizontal screw type head lift cable system (another improvement from cable twisting type shown in original online pics)...Bad? That pre-assembled unit was heavy (need lift or two friends with weak minds to get it on the tracks). Spent 10 minutes using an angle grinder to touch up close clearances between the improved heavier roller bearing wheels and the track angle iron cross-braces (a more patient assembler without an impact gun might do better lining up those pre-drilled holes).
> 3. Subaru Robin 7 hp steel jug engine. Not a commercial zipping production unit, but cut steady enough for hobby folks on green hard wood, centrifugal clutch seems strong enough. Bad? cheap plastic kill switch, added a heavier one closer to operator.
> 4. Cut 3 logs into various thickness (1 soft, 2 hard, debarked with Hudson chainsaw attachment), blade tracked true, roughcut 6'-12' boards uniform. Bad? found a 58 cal roundball in the wood my detector missed, wrecked the cheaper original longtooth blade, installed a better .042, 1.3t, 12 footer, re-adjusted blade tracking, guides for thicker blade (10 min) and was going again..
> 5. Was expecting much less, but so far no beefing up to lift assembly or tracking looks needed. We'll see how long the smooth starting Subaru lasts...(another nice thing was the flat plate engine mount...plenty of room all sides to add any engine you might want to upgrade to.) Bad? Now the wife wants her new carpet.


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## cosine68

*Additional note HF mill...*

Well, looked at my posted pics, the 3 meg original version showed the things you folks were wondering about much better (lift assembly horizontal screw pulley system and thickness of angle iron tracks, roller wheels, etc) much better before I attempted to compress the things for site loading restrictions. Played with it a little more too this evening and have two further notes to add for anyone interested in one of these. 
#1. Read the engine owner's manual wrong originally, found that I fibbed about the "steel jug" Subaru engine...the Cylinder itself is aluminum (OH valves), the cylinder inner CASING is listed as steel (piston cylinder casing sleeve...like most nowadays small engines).
2. Took one of the 6 ft rough cut boards (mesquite) and ran it though a Dewalt planer to test the uniformity...two light passes each side removed all saw mark ripples...looks like this thing may work for my planned hobby lumber projects...Next, off to harvest some virgin cedar, may have to slim some of these bigger trunks with my 70's model Alaskan mill to get them to fit into the 22" jaw width mill max...
3 If the Chinese thing self-destructs, I'll give a further post...off to play...c 


cosine68 said:


> Ok, trying to add pics, camera setting is 3 meg per pic max, site wouldn't take that...think I have them compressed...remember, you're dealing with grandpa here...need grandyoungin' assistance for pics if this doesn't work...c


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## billye1982

I know this is a very old post but I am curious how the mill has been holding up over the last year? I am considering getting one for my hobby and was wondering about your 1 year usage review.


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## ETWW

billye1982 said:


> I know this is a very old post but I am curious how the mill has been holding up over the last year? I am considering getting one for my hobby and was wondering about your 1 year usage review.


I've also been looking at the HF mill as I am a hobbiest and would only be sawing for my own use. I'd also like to hear how well it has held up.

The mill has been on backorder for several months and is now listed at $2000 vs the $1700 previously. According to an email from HF customer service, the mill is supposed to become available again this month.

I'm also looking at (and leaning towards) either a WM LT-10 or LT-15, again, strictly for sawing my own lumber. As a turner, I frequently have people offer me logs to be cut up for turning stock. The only problem is that I can only use so much turning stock. It's a shame to let the majority of the log go to waste ergo the interest in sawing them into lumber.


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## MidGAOutdoor

i want to get one of these. what a coencidence! i was gonna post about this same thing. how well does it work? how well is it built?


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## RUSSR

Another mill you might look at http://woodlandmills.ca/ looks REAL close to HF sawmill. 7 hp is real under powered, if you went with HF then bought a larger motor from them you would still be under $2,000 with coupons. Then a larger Clutch, going from 3/4" to 1" shaft.


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## H. A. S.

Those are very sweet mills...makes me wish I was 20 years younger.


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## RUSSR

RUSSR said:


> Another mill you might look at http://woodlandmills.ca/ looks REAL close to HF sawmill. 7 hp is real under powered, if you went with HF then bought a larger motor from them you would still be under $2,000 with coupons. Then a larger Clutch, going from 3/4" to 1" shaft.


Scrap both of these idea's Woodlandmills can't sell them in the US and Hf just went up on price to $2,500. back to WM lt-10


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## billye1982

RUSSR said:


> Scrap both of these idea's Woodlandmills can't sell them in the US and Hf just went up on price to $2,500. back to WM lt-10


Holy crap it did! According to their online checkout the 20% coupon worked, but now it would still be $2000 plus tax! No thanks:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown:


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## cisco1138

billye1982 said:


> Holy crap it did! According to their online checkout the 20% coupon worked, but now it would still be $2000 plus tax! No thanks:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown:


After entering (63693949) coupon code, the mill is $1,599.99 +tax +$99.94 Freight

But it is still on back order? 

tempting...


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## ETWW

cisco1138 said:


> After entering (63693949) coupon code, the mill is $1,599.99 +tax +$99.94 Freight
> 
> But it is still on back order?
> 
> tempting...


Apparently.


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## mike from ft collins

*harbor freight sawmill shipped*

My harbor freight sawmill should arrive tomorrow. I ordered it thanksgiving day. Total price with tax was $1613. It looks like they didn't charge the $89 shipping charge perhaps because it took so long.

I used a 25% off thanksgiving day coupon.

It is currently on sale for the old price of $2000 and I suspect that the 20% off coupons would make it $1600.

Now I need to make some extensions for the rails and get some extra blades.


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## firemedic

mike from ft collins said:


> My harbor freight sawmill should arrive tomorrow. I ordered it thanksgiving day. Total price with tax was $1613. It looks like they didn't charge the $89 shipping charge perhaps because it took so long.
> 
> I used a 25% off thanksgiving day coupon.
> 
> It is currently on sale for the old price of $2000 and I suspect that the 20% off coupons would make it $1600.
> 
> Now I need to make some extensions for the rails and get some extra blades.


Do keep us updated on how it works out... I've never milled before but I'm interested in getting into it and that may be a good starter!

~tom


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## RUSSR

My hats off to you Mike you are a very understanding man to wait that long. I don't think you could buy the hardware and metal at that cost. Could you send us some pic's and keep us posted? My interest would be how difficult would it be to put a larger motor on it?


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## toddheath2005

*on its way*

Wahoo. just registered to tell you all that my harbor freight mill is on its way and will be here tuesday! Customer service advised me it would be august before they would be in stock but 10 min later an email arived telling me it was shipped out and Conway Freight called me today to confirm the arrival for tuesday. It was not a bad price with the 20% off coupon and tax and shipping just a shade over $1800. I will have to update on how it does. One more thing I have been reading post for awhile and think you guys are great!! That is why I decided to go with the band mill from harbor freight for the price. I have used central machinery tools before and have abused the heck out of some of them and for the most part are still working. One brand I have never had good luck with at HF is the Drill Master brand might as well wipe with your money.


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## firemedic

toddheath2005 said:


> Wahoo. just registered to tell you all that my harbor freight mill is on its way and will be here tuesday! Customer service advised me it would be august before they would be in stock but 10 min later an email arived telling me it was shipped out and Conway Freight called me today to confirm the arrival for tuesday. It was not a bad price with the 20% off coupon and tax and shipping just a shade over $1800. I will have to update on how it does. One more thing I have been reading post for awhile and think you guys are great!! That is why I decided to go with the band mill from harbor freight for the price. I have used central machinery tools before and have abused the heck out of some of them and for the most part are still working. One brand I have never had good luck with at HF is the Drill Master brand might as well wipe with your money.


Welcome, and congrats... You are now officially obligated to give us a full run down and review of it.

...if not the wood hounds will hunt you down and take your freshly milled lumber... 

~tom


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## Jammer

Pitures! We want pitures!


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## MidGAOutdoor

yea man when u get it we want pics.


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## mike from ft collins

I picked the mill up this evening. The lift gate charge would have been $130 so I took a trailer to Conway Freight. They loaded the crate with no problems. The crate is steel angle and straps plus cardboard. The packaging is good and there was no damage.

The assembly instructions are barely adequate. There is a better assembly manual at http://www.woodlandmills.ca/images/Woodland-Mills-HM126-Manual2.pdf. This is the same mill with a different engine.

We got the mill about 50% assembled in 90 minutes. We should be ready for the first log tomorrow. We are putting it on a flat bed trailer for now so that we can cut some support timbers for the final instalation. 

The materials appear to be reasonable. There are a number of holes that were welded back shut on at least three pieces. I'm hoping that their assembly work is better than their drilling. I will check everything that was pre-assembled before starting the engine.

I ordered 5 blades from woodmizer for $122 with shipping that shipped today. It is a little hard to find the 5 blades but they are there if you look at the entire list. Their search feature only shows the 15 blade package.

I'll get some pictures when we start cutting some wood.


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## danjp57

*Harbor frieght Lies...*

I too Bought a Central machiney saw mill and used the ThanksgivingDay Discount....Was told it was on back-order and would recieve no later than spring..Called over and over in the Spring--told would be here in March--Then April--Then May--Then July--Now its July 26th no being told August...along the way harbor frieght said NO--NO--NO Mills have been delivered to them in 2011 and they are still waiting for the FIRST Shipment....I decide to Google to find some info and here I am--I seen where some have had their SAME mill I ordered delivered in MAY 2011..wow...Also I researched the Motor that was coming on this Mill when Purchased..then was Told this spring the Motor was changed to a HONDA 7hp...Now they have Changed it AGAIN for a CHEAP No Name Engine--preditor 7hp piece of crap...I just filed a Comlaint with the BBB in CA and NY...They keep telling me I can cancel...NO not after all this crap they put me through...I'm calling Corporate today and asking for Compounded Interest on my $$$ paid for the whole time waiting--sure it will go No where but still going to try..Also I'm going to do a UTUBE Video on this MILL when i get it in SOME-DAY--I will reat my story there also the assembly process & how this thing Holds up and cuts....If its real junk I'll say so...I have a feeling it will be after dealing with harbor freight LIES.....:thumbdown:


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## mike from ft collins

I've been using the mill for about three months now. The engine has plenty of power for pine as big as will fit in it. The engine starts on the first or second pull as long as i remember to turn it on. I get about five logs per tank of gas. The clutch works well. The throttle broke the first day but i prefer to use the one on the engine. I may replace the remote throttle with something better some day but it works fine for now.
The nut on the leadscrew stripped after about five logs. It appears the screw was too small on one end as it is tapered by about .5mm. They are supposed to be sending a new lift assembly but it is backordered 6-8 weeks. I put a 3 ton long jack on top to replace the crank. The only problem is that the jack leaks down sometimes because it isn't meant to be used in a horzontal position. The lift clamps sag a little so it takes a little planning to get the thickness i want. I may switch to a vertically mounted jack but that requires some re-routing of the cables.
I replaced the paper scale with a metal ruler.
I've cut up about 30 trees so far. With the woodmizer blades the saw cuts smooth and straight. The blade that came with the saw was good for practicing but it mercifully broke before i got discouraged.
I added 12 feet of track so i can now saw 21.5 foot lumber.
So far i have built a deck (9.5 x 8') and am half way done with a shed. I have side boards for a 12' trailer cut and almost dry. I also have a pile of assorted lumber 9.5' x 9.5' x 5' that is drying.
I still need to get some hardwood trees to see how it works on wood tougher than pine.
I'm on blade 6 and seem to be getting about ten 9.5' logs out of each blade on avaerage. 
The saw is well worth what I paid and one heck of a fun toy. The variable cost is about a nickle a board foot so the saw should pay for itself in the first few projects. I have an unlimited supply of beetle kill pine from 10 to 20 inch diameter. 
My wife took a few pictures so i will try posting those later.


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## mrpacman

bought one a month ago from the Dillon S.C. southeast distribution warehouse it is built far better than you may think will keep you posted ended up getting it for $1495.00 plus tax with 20 off coupon and it was on sale they are made to order got it in less than two weeks.


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## mrpacman

They did on mine a month ago


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## mrpacman

Just put together the Harbor freight saw mill, and the Woodland mill is the same mill other than the engine,virtually identical also on the Woodland website they are out of stock and both units are handmade to order in California, or at least that's what I was told by the sellers. Hope that info helps, also I got mine shipped and delivered in less than two weeks from Harbor Freight in California shipped to South Carolina P.S. The blades are the same size and there is a larger water tank on the Woodland model both are good mills and well built for a hobby enthusiasts.Keep On Sawing Folks


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## mrpacman

If you haven't pulled the trigger on a new sawmill yet from Harbor freight keep checking every month online ads they have had the same model on sale twice in the past two months and they sure will take the 20% off coupon even on sale just bought mine in June 2012 its is a good mill for the smack hope this helps sir,by the way the ending price before shipping was $1495.00 plus tax


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## ETWW

billye1982 said:


> Holy crap it did! According to their online checkout the 20% coupon worked, but now it would still be $2000 plus tax! No thanks:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown:


I was very tempted to purchase a HF mill when they were selling for around $1700, including the discount. But, at $2500 I said "no thanks", too. I ended up buying a lightly used Logmaster LM-1 with a 13 hp engine that will probably be all the mill I ever need. I only saw for myself, too.


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## chellejeff

*hand crank failure*

The Harbor Freight Central Machinery sawmill in its 2012 rendition is exactly the same as the Woodland Mills sawmill, without handle grips and a few other niceties. I ordered mine in early July 2012 and received it mid July 2012. I paid about $2200 including shipping. It arrived in cardboard and welded steel packaging. I cut up the steel and kept it for future projects. The mill took a couple hours to assemble and was pretty straight forward. The only problem was the cross bar for the clamping system. It was about 1/2" too long. Once I shortened it everything went together fine (though the clamping system kinda sucks). After about 50 cuts the elevation control failed. The hand crank is attached to a threaded rod, which drives a threaded brass "nut". The brass nut stripped, allowing the saw head to fall onto the log I was about to cut. The saw head is really heavy. 

Following is detailed description of how I remedied this problem. This fix requires steel grinding equipment, steel cutting equipment, and welding equipment. A file, hack saw, and welder will do it, but an angle grinder and welder make it easy. Also required is about 15" of 3/4-10 all thread and a matching coupler (nut that is about 2.5 inches long). Both are readily available at hardware stores. I live in a town population 2900 and the local (very small) hardware store had both. The end result is your hand crank will be opposite of what it was (cranking direction) and it will be just under 1/4" elevation change per handle rotation. 5 cranks per inch. If this is unacceptable, get left handed all thread and a left handed coupler, expect to pay a lot more. It took me about 30 seconds to adjust to turning the crank the opposite direction. This repair took 63 minutes, and I was doddling. Typing this description took way longer than the actual repair. I have included photos, but I have no idea what order they'll be in.

Engage the saw head locks, then turn the hand crank to make slack in the cables. Remove the cables from the pulley wheels. The extending arm of the elevation control can be removed by turning the hand crank till the extending arm comes off the end of the threaded rod which controls it. All the way up. The brass "nut" in the extending arm, as well as the crank handle, are held in place by steel rivets. Grind or file off one side of the rivets then punch them through with a small steel rod, nail set, or drift pin. Have a rag handy as both should be covered in grease. Cut off the elevator rod in the area between the threads and the smooth section. Weld on a matching length of 3/4" all thread. The beauty or ugliness of your weld doesn't matter because nobody will ever see it. Make it strong, there's plenty of clearance. I clamped mine in a piece of angle iron to make sure the pieces lined up perfectly. Align the 3/4" coupler in the end of the extending arm that the brass "nut" threaded block came out of. Weld it in place as straight as possible. I'm guessing it's not that critical cause mine worked the first try. You might wanna spot weld it then install it on the mill to make sure it works before filling in the welds. Clearance is a bit of an issue here. I grinded my welds flat. Once the coupler is welded in place, smear grease the length of the threaded rod, and put it all back together. If you've made it this far I probably don't have to describe the reassembly. I spray painted the grinded areas to prevent rust. I tapped in the rivets as a temporary attachment for the crank until I get some bolts and nuts to replace them. I made a couple cuts and everything is working better than before. Previously there were times when the hand crank would stick or become hard to turn. Now very smooth.

I have more photos, so if something doesn't make sense, email me.

Good luck. Email if any questions. [email protected] I'm also working on an improved clamping system and it's looking good so far.


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## DST

Latest flyer has the HF mill 800$ off


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## perm

Would like to hear some updates on how the hf mill is running got my fingure on the trigger to purchase this thing.


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## jkleitner

*Clamping system repair*

Hey Jeff, were you able to improve on the clamping system? I am planning on ordering my Harbor Freight mill later this month. Thanks for the detailed post on fixing the elevation control.

Josh


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## danjp57

Be ready to WAIT MONTHS for any parts you order if something breaks on this mill,,has to be shipped fron the SUPPLIER in CHINA!!,,they drag thier butsszzz,,If you look at other posts on here you will see how the BRASS FAILS on the crank an the Sawmill head DROPSZZZ while operating,,also when you assemble this mill be prepared to DRILL holes because the (Maker) can't line up holes for assembly...most everything is made in CHINA so,,even if you buy a AMERICAN made you'll find its ASSEMBLED and sold in america BUT most parts are from over sea's,,the motors are cheap and I call them throw away motors,,run till they die then buy another CHEAP one,,,belts you can buy online from other suppliers also the blocks the blade runs in-between,,so far I have run about 60 logs through mine and hand crank brass stripped,,,bolts fall out from clamp downs,,water flow lever fell off,,also had to shift motor to tighten belt,,bought extensions that didn't match up perfectly,,had to grand a couple spots,,good luck!!! BTW my crank handle broke last MAY 2012 and its still not here--feb 2013,,,whats that tell ya,,,


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## perm

Alright couldn't stand it no longer after a 1000 reviews and comparing woodland mills saw to harbor frieght I went with the HB. 1799.99 right now 20 percent off plus tax and shiping brought the price to a grand total of 1623.33 . Corse its on back order and won't be here till april


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## jkleitner

Perm I too just bought one from HF last week. I got the same deal as you. It was actually $100 cheaper in January but I missed the sale. Mine is on backorder until April 5th they said. I am excited to get it put together and start milling.

I emailed WoodlandMills about the mill and asked them if they sold the mill to HF or if it was the same design or not and they replied the following:

"We do not sell sawmills to Harbor Freight. Much like their drills resemble Makita and their locking pliers mimic Vise Grips, their sawmill resembles ours. 
I have never seen one first hand, nor do I know what their service/quality/warranty is like. In the past, we have been asked by Harbor Freight customers for parts to fix their mills, but don’t do this due to issues with them fitting/working."

I still believe it is the same design, their design, but just being sold by the chinese manufacturer/assembler. Wish they would sell the parts to HF owners though.

Josh


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## Doza

Ordered my mill on 2/22. Last email from HF cust. serv. states they are back-ordered and due on 5/10. We'll see. Nice part is you're not charged until the item is shipped.

I'm very interested in the engine as it is stated to be 280cc and 7HP? Every engine of this design (I believe this to be mfg by Lifan) and in this cc range usually rates out at @ 9HP.

jkleitner and perm keep me posted on when you receive your mills.

thanks


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## BobInMN

*Ordered Sawmill*

I ordered the Harbor Freight mill on 3-31-13. Using an Easter Sunday 25% off coupon I paid about $1550 after adding tax and shipping charges. When I ordered it they told me it was on back order and I would not be charged until it shipped. They sent me an email with a phone number to call to check the status of my order. When I called I was told it was on back order until 5-17-13 and asked if I wanted to cancel my order, which I said no to. 

I'm looking forward to when you guys receive your mills and what you actually get for engines. For some reason, if you look at the engine size in cc's, I think it's larger than 7HP. I have my own reason why I think they list it at 7HP. I'll wait until I get mine before I make any claims as to why. I see Woodland changed the designs of their mills for 2013 and am wondering if it carries over to the Harbor Freight mills?


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## danjp57

*engine,,,*



BobInMN said:


> I ordered the Harbor Freight mill on 3-31-13. Using an Easter Sunday 25% off coupon I paid about $1550 after adding tax and shipping charges. When I ordered it they told me it was on back order and I would not be charged until it shipped. They sent me an email with a phone number to call to check the status of my order. When I called I was told it was on back order until 5-17-13 and asked if I wanted to cancel my order, which I said no to.
> 
> I'm looking forward to when you guys receive your mills and what you actually get for engines. For some reason, if you look at the engine size in cc's, I think it's larger than 7HP. I have my own reason why I think they list it at 7HP. I'll wait until I get mine before I make any claims as to why. I see Woodland changed the designs of their mills for 2013 and am wondering if it carries over to the Harbor Freight mills?


 This is the brand motor that comes on these mills,,>>>http://www.harborfreight.com/small_engines.html
Predator engine is the one that came on mine even tho they said HONDA engine when I ordered it ,,that was a few years ago,,they like to change things and forget to tell you,,as far as back ordered they did the same with me,,I ordered mine in the fall on a Holiday SALE--Thanksgiving--and they said back-ordered till spring,,,I never got it till LATE FALL,,so almost 1 full year from purchase date,,being in the northeast I waited till spring to use it,,so 1 1/2 years before I was able to operate what I paid for,,,Have to Luv the CHINA CRAP,,,because they are CHEAP,,,If you e-mail customer service about the 7hp for a replacement you'll find this motor is a special motor just for this mill,,not one off the self at their stores--throw away Motors,,,from what I found with me research is their 11hp predator motor Should fit and work on this mill,,,mine is still running but when it dies I plan on going with a 11 hp predator or look at a Honda motor,,


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## BobInMN

danjp57 said:


> This is the brand motor that comes on these mills,,>>>http://www.harborfreight.com/small_engines.html
> Predator engine is the one that came on mine even tho they said HONDA engine when I ordered it ,,that was a few years ago,,they like to change things and forget to tell you,,as far as back ordered they did the same with me,,I ordered mine in the fall on a Holiday SALE--Thanksgiving--and they said back-ordered till spring,,,I never got it till LATE FALL,,so almost 1 full year from purchase date,,being in the northeast I waited till spring to use it,,so 1 1/2 years before I was able to operate what I paid for,,,Have to Luv the CHINA CRAP,,,because they are CHEAP,,,If you e-mail customer service about the 7hp for a replacement you'll find this motor is a special motor just for this mill,,not one off the self at their stores--throw away Motors,,,from what I found with me research is their 11hp predator motor Should fit and work on this mill,,,mine is still running but when it dies I plan on going with a 11 hp predator or look at a Honda motor,,


 
What is the shaft size on the engine on your mill? The 212cc 7HP has a 3/4" shaft. If the engine on your mill is 1", I believe the engine is really a 9HP engine.

I hope I have better luck in receiving my mill a little sooner than you got yours. I can't prove it, but I have a theory on that also. I will have to wait until I get my mill to see if maybe I'm right or wrong. When I get mine I'll give everyone my opinion and see what you guys think.


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## Doza

Seeing Woodland Mills just received their 2013 models, I'm hoping Sunpower is now producing mills for Harbor Freight. Who knows if they have changed the design?


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## BobInMN

Yesterday I called Harbor Freight to check on the back order status of my mill. Now they said that they do not expect any more shipments of the mill until 11/8/13. They said that of course that date may change, it could be later, then again it could be earlier. 

Just seems strange that as many orders that they seem to get for this mill that they can't get shipments of it. I've been told that the factory that manufactures for HBT also manufactures for Woodland Mills. I wonder if their mills are on back order too?


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## jkleitner

I also called yesterday about my mill. I was given the same date as you. I initially was told April 15th, then May 5th, and now November 8th. This is absolutely ridiculous! You would hope a company would want to actually provide the products they are selling. I guess though, if I wanted the mill now, I would pay the 3000 for a Woodland Mills machine. Hope it is available sooner than November. We will see I guess.


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## BobInMN

My guess would be that the Chinese Factory that builds these mills also manufactures other items. You probably have to place a large order of mills with the factory before they will switch everything over to making mills again. 

If you look at some of the Chinese Factory web sites you will see that you have to order x amount before they will sell to you. I was told one time, by who eludes me, that if you were willing to order a shipping container full of whatever the factory produced they would sell to you.

Example given to me was when I was looking into buying a Chinese tractor. Tractors were shipped 4 to a container, if you wanted one you had to buy four. If you were a dealer and needed six, you had to buy eight. Then there was the shipping cost. It was cheaper to ship eight than it was four. The more you ordered the cheaper the shipping.

Who knows? Maybe Harbor Freight has a magical number of orders when they finally place an order with the factory?


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## ETWW

The Chinese will not hesitate to reverse engineer (clone) someone else's design. Patents mean nothing to them. I'm sure they have copied the Woodland Mills design and simply substituted some cheaper components.

My mill is an older Logmaster LM-1 and has a 13 hp Jiangdong engine. It's a Honda clone. Honda parts even bolt directly on to it. It starts easily and runs like a top, too, but it's not a Honda. I'm seriously considering an upgrade to an 18 hp electric start Kohler.


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## BobInMN

This guy has two sawmill videos listed on youtube. I'd say he's got both the Woodland and Harbor Freight models covered. 

https://www.youtube.com/user/haojh1979?feature=watch


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## lcooke

*my first sawmill*

my wife ordered me a H.F. mill on 5/1/13 it is on backorder untill nov. 2013 , i see a couple of others are ordered on here, mabey they will have enough to fill a shipping container sooner, i appreciate all the info that yall have posted , I have alot of pine on my property , cant wait to get started. i'll keep yall posted on the shipping date if it changes. Thanks Lonnie


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## lcooke

*$$$$$*

by the way my wife used a coupon the price was $1519.99 +96.94 Shipping $113.19 Tax for a total to my door $1730.12 Lonnie


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## TexasTimbers

I just have a hard time finding sympathy for buyers who purchase the HF mill, when plenty of one man and small USA builders are still able to be found. You'll get a better made mill, usually made with parts you can find at your local hardware store, and you won't be put on unbelievably long backorder list. heck you will even GET a mill not the run-around.

Yes I know I have heard the "But I cannot afford an American made mill!". Bull! The mill is just the start. You have to invest in equipment costing that much and more, just buy the USA made mill now and add the support equipment as you can. 


You get what you pay for and it's no different with sawmills. And yes my advice is free so take *that* for what it's worth too. 


:wacko:


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## lcooke

*my first sawmill*

TexasTimbers , If i could afford a $3000 mill i would have bought one. this is just a hobby not a business venture. Thanks for the welcome to the site I see this will be interesting


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## TexasTimbers

lcooke said:


> TexasTimbers , If i could afford a $3000 mill i would have bought one. this is just a hobby not a business venture. Thanks for the welcome to the site I see this will be interesting


It's just my opinion, not an official enforceable State Policy. :laughing: Honestly it is just my opinion and I don't look down on someone just because they don't see things my way, I just have no sympathy when someone buys cheap Chinese junk and has problems with parts and service and quality. I just have my way of looking at it and you have yours. I'll still pass you some ammo if it ever comes down to it. :gunsmilie:

And welcome to the site, for real. :thumbsup:


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## lcooke

Well i will keep you updated on how it works out for me ,I dont need any sympathy,and i have plenty of ammo .I could use some advise on getting started but preferable without all the sarcasm. Thanks for the warm welcome . Lonnie:gunsmilie:


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## lcooke

TexasTimbers said:


> It's just my opinion, not an official enforceable State Policy. :laughing: Honestly it is just my opinion and I don't look down on someone just because they don't see things my way, I just have no sympathy when someone buys cheap Chinese junk and has problems with parts and service and quality. I just have my way of looking at it and you have yours. I'll still pass you some ammo if it ever comes down to it. :gunsmilie:
> 
> And welcome to the site, for real. :thumbsup:


 It dont matter if its an enforceable state policy or not ,I live in Georgia and I dont need your sympathy or your ammo,Im not a snapon kinda guy ,I dont need to impress people with name brands


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## danjp57

*China's so called Junk is EVERYWHERE!*

I bet the ones crying about China's cheap crap>>SHOP at WALMART,,
I do because that's the Cheapest place to buy goods,,,Oh wait that different isn't it,,Its not a Mill,,How about your FORD--CHEVY--GM--Chysler's cars and trucks..they are American right---WRONG--take them apart and look at the labels on major Electrical and other Components that make then what they are>>MADE IN ASIA--CHINA---JAPAN---Its the world we live in thanks to our Government and FREE TRADE,,Crying time is over boys and Girls,,,It is what it is--PERIOD--Lets get back to helping each other out,,,Thank you


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## DST

This thread is now so far off track and failing fast. Time to unsubscribe


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## Doza

Well for those of us on back order once we get the mills all will be well.

Lets get back to the lead screw failure other members have discussed. Was this part of the mill pre-assembled by the factory? Looks that way. If so was it properly greased? Might be smart to disassemble and grease the threads prior to initial use. Maybe drill a passage and install a zerk for op maintenance.

Thoughts?


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## BobInMN

I thought that I read somewhere that the nut the acme rod screwed into was brass? If that is the case I suspect that it was cast out of too soft of brass. Think there is anyway to replace it before it fails? Or add a lift assist cylinder like the LT 10 Woodmizer has? Just a thought I had.


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## toddheath2005

Ok I posted on here 2yrs ago that I ordered a mill. Yes back then they said they were on back order and it would be months! Well I sent an email the next day to check on it still back order. In the mean time I went ahead and decided to make it a side business so I came up with a name and again emailed them this time as a business heading and bam got a reply the next day with a tracking number! So a total of 4 days after I ordered it was on its way. Ok now about the mill. Well I picked it up at terminal to save a couple bucks. The crate looked like it fell of a truck or two along the way but the contents were good so went ahead and accepted it. Got home and ya good thing I own a skid steer because it weighs a lot. Took a day to level the ground and put it together. The fit and finish was good I build airplanes for a living so I had to make sure it was shimmed and perfect just outta habit.lol anyhow now on to problems and actually there wasnt any but I thought they shorted me a log holder so I email them the part number. It did take about a month to recieve it but when it showed up they had sent me 2 plus a whole new track!! Wow bonus now I can mill 16' and there was a letter apologizing and a $150 gift card and it was my fault because I thought there was 2 but you only get one. I emailed them and offered to send the parts and gift card back but they said keep them. So now operation. Well in 2 yrs I have milled a few thousand feet and made enough I could buy 10 more mills if I wanted to but no need I haven't had one problem. I will try and attach some pics I even milled an pin oak log that measured 52 inches across. I had to take push handle off so it would raise high enough and couldnt use log holders had to just wedge blocks to hold it. Well that enough for now. In short it a great mill that will suprise the hell outta you!


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## toddheath2005

More pics some reason the program keeps crashing when I add pics.


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## toddheath2005

A couple more. I have a bunch of walnut pics on my phone will try and get them off there maybe. Plus I documented assembling it with pictures also thanks


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## lcooke

toddheath2005 said:


> A couple more. I have a bunch of walnut pics on my phone will try and get them off there maybe. Plus I documented assembling it with pictures also thanks


 Thanks for the pics , and its good to hear that someone acually has one,and it works well. still on backorder till Nov.2013 but im sure it will be worth the wait once i get started. THANK YOU


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## danjp57

*Pics of my mill...*

Ran around 60 logs through it so far,,Brass in crank did strip out and replaced once,,,


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## mike from ft collins

I've been using mine a couple of years. In general I am pleased with it. I've built two sheds including siding, three decks a very large gazebo and sides for a large trailer along with other assorted projects all in beetle kill pine.
I use woodmizer blades. The blade that came with the saw is junk and should be scrapped as soon as you stop running into the steel stops.
The lead screw nut is brass and not strong enough. It lasted about 5 logs. I used a hydraulic ram for a year and a half. It leaks down slowly and makes it hard to make perfect cuts. I finally bought a HF trailer jack. The one with the triangular base. The parts are very similar to the leadscrew included with the mill. In less than half an hour I was able to modify the much heavier steel nut to fit the tube. The jack nut is round and needs to have the sides cut to a rectangle. A cut off wheel in a HF grinder works well for the modification. I expect this will keep working a long time.
I use this at 8000 ft elevation and need a high altitude kit for the engine.
Has anyone called HF to find out how to get an altitude kit?
For now I just change the plug and clean the carb every 20 hours or so.
I added to the rails so that I can cut 21.5 ft trees.
I replaced the paper height scale with a steel ruler.
I lube the verticle slide with a dry lube.
The throttle control is junk and should be replaced with something sturdy.
If you are having as much fun as me you will generate many cu yards of sawdust and will need a way to dispose of it. The slab wood is easier to get rid of. 
I am becoming the supplier of all sorts of odd slabs of wood for friends.
The snow should be about done melting around the saw so I hope to get back to it in the next few weeks. Not all of our roads get plowed in Colorado so I have been snowed out for much of the winter.
I'll try to post some pictures later.


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## MrElliott1982

That is good to see that some people are happy with them. I may try to talk the wife into letting me have one!


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## lcooke

*need measurements please*

Could someone please post the overall measurements of the track , width and length ,please I am preping a foundation while I wait patiently. Thank You. I Really apreciate the pics


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## Doza

Just received an email from HF saying the mill is now due in September vice November. That's a little better news. Anyone else get the same message?


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## BobInMN

Doza said:


> Just received an email from HF saying the mill is now due in September vice November. That's a little better news. Anyone else get the same message?


Yes, I received the same message.


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## jkleitner

I also received the email.


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## BobInMN

Just out of curiosity I called Harbor Freight Customer Service tonight, the BO date they gave me is still November. Had a nice conversation with the lady and she said that it probably was just because they hadn't been notified by the warehouse of the new date??? She said that things may change and the mill may come in even sooner, but I think we already knew that. The one thing that did surprise me is that when I asked her how many were on BO, she said hold on a minute, then came back and said her computer showed 166. Surprised me that they let out that info. Wouldn't you think that that would be good for us waiting that there are so many on BO? I mean, if it was only a few, so what, but 166 is no small number to lose orders on. JMHO. 

For some reason I have the feeling I will have my mill by mid July. Hope I wrote this so everything is understandable. It's late, I'm tired, and my pain meds are starting to kick in.


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## lcooke

*September much better*

Yes I also got the email saying the new shipping date is September. but now when I go to H.F. website and type in sawmill on the search tab it says not found , maybe they have discontinued this item, but surely they will honor the existing sales.


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## jkleitner

Mine Shipped! Be here tomorrow. I am excited.


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## BobInMN

jkleitner, that sounds great! You ordered yours 6 weeks before me, I think. I would be thrilled if mine ships in 6 weeks from now.

I am looking forward to hearing all the details when you get it. We want pics!


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## jkleitner

I will take pictures and I will give a detailed response about whether the 2013 woodland updates are included. I am picking it up from the shipping yard tomorrow because I dont have a forklift at home. Another note, they didnt call me. I just noticed they withdrew the money from my account so I called customer service and they gave me the tracking number. I am sure you guys will get your mill sooner than you think.

What bands do you intend to use?


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## BobInMN

Probably the Double-Hard from Wood-Mizer. If I ever plan on sharpening my own blades they have the CBN wheels to match the profile of the blade. I would think it would be easier to make a drop sharpener instead of a drag sharpener (I ain't smart enough to try and figure out that cam needed).

Just got off the phone with HF Customer Service. I'm still listed as Back Ordered until November 8th. Lady said that mills are starting to come in small quantities and it all depends upon where you are on the order list and I may get my mill sooner. Oh well, I'm happy that some of you guys that have waited longer than me are finally getting your mills!


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## jkleitner

Ok everyone, Initial report is that it appears to be exactly the same mill as everyone else has pictured. The pieces were all very well drilled and everything was the correct size. No modifications were necessary. Assembly took around 3 hours but I was by myself and I didn't have any lifting device/hoist or anything so it was not easy to get the 350lb head onto the uprights by myself. 

Fit and finish were all great and shipping container was in good shape. The paper taped to the crate said my mill was #28 of 34 shipped from China.

Havent started the engine yet but tomorrow I will start it and let it idle to break in. I should be able to cut a log tomorrow as well and I will post pictures and video then.


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## BobInMN

Hey jkleitner, what is the size of the shaft on the engine? I'm glad to hear that everything went together well for you. Like I said in an earlier post, I think the quality of material and workmanship of Chinese products has been improving over the years. What have you decided to go with for blades?


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## Doza

Received my mill yesterday afternoon. Haven't started assembly but all looks good. Head assembly is the same as previous pictures posted and engine is 280cc with 1" shaft. I'm thinking 9hp.

Mill was well packaged and delivery was to my door step. You can't make me say anything bad about Harbor Freight. This mill was a great buy.

I think we're all lucky to have placed our orders, because as previously posted it appears HF has discontinued this item.


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## BobInMN

Doza, that is why I asked the shaft size. I may be wrong, but I don't think you will find a 1" shaft on a 7HP engine. Maybe when they hacked someone else's mill plan they put in a 9HP and then said: "On no, this is not a copy of that mill, this has a 7HP engine in it, they have a 9HP." I'm surprised they don't paint it a different color than the Woodland mill. I'm probably wrong about that too, but I'm glad it's a 1" shaft, makes it easier and less expensive to upgrade to a larger engine if you are so inclined. Oh, I also wanted to ask, is the brass nut on the lift mechanism lubricated, or is it not possible to look at without disassembly? Thanks for answering my questions. You guys getting your mills has got me excited, can't wait for mine.


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## jkleitner

Hey Bob,

I decided to use Cook's super sharp bands on my mill. I checked my mill engine shaft too and although I just used a tape measure, It looks bigger than 1 inch. maybe 1 1/8th to 1 1/4th. I will bring my calipers out to the farm with me when I go tomorrow.

The woodland mills is a dark green and this mill is a bright green color. The track is 4"x2 1/4th" in case you were going to make your own track extensions.

I inspected my lift mechanism but you cant tell if it is lubricated or not without disassembly. The rivets others spoke of have been replaced by welds so it will take some considerable time to grind out/drill the 4 welds and remove the crank assembly. I initially planned on making the fix before i even started using it but now, I think I will wait and see if it fails.

Engine started on the second pull and it idled perfect for 45 minutes. I then idled it up a bit and the clutch kicked in. The book says 3 hours of break in period where it is not allowed under load or at full throttle. I have a bit more running before I can use it I guess.

Sorry no pictures yet. I havent downloaded the camera yet.

Josh


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## jkleitner

*Pictures*

Here are a few pictures.


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## BobInMN

I had to call HF yesterday to give them a new credit card number (the card I had ordered with expired). They told me I would get it at the same price I originally ordered it at (less than $1600 total). Imagine my surprise when I got the new invoice in my email, over $2700. I got right back on the phone, they said the invoice wasn't processed yet and to call them back today to straighten it out. They also said I wouldn't lose my place in line to get my mill. We'll see.


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## jkleitner

*mills first use.*

Ok everyone, I milled my first few cuts today. I cut three boards from a walnut log I felled about 6 months ago. I am very disappointed in how the mill cut. The log vibrated a lot, the cut was extremely wavy and the cut surface was really jagged and rough. My csm doesnt cut as fast but the cut is 10 times smoother than this mill cut. Also, although there was no metal in the wood, three teeth on the blade were torn off.

What is causing the terrible cut? I checked and the band has minimal deflection. About 1/4th to 1/2 inch total. The guide berings were almost touching the back of the blade and the guide bushings were close to the band. I think they were a bit too far away but not grossly so. This was using the factory band so maybe it is just that terrible. I have new bands on order. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Josh


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## Tom the Sawyer

jkleitner,

My mill is a different brand but I'll try to help until someone with specific knowledge can help. 

Log vibrating -likely it is not clamped tightly enough.

Wavy cut - many potential causes including erratic, often insufficient blade speed, insufficient blade tension, blade alignment, etc.

Teeth breaking off - almost always related to striking metal, in the log or part of the mill.

"Minimal deflection, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch total" - a certain amount of blade deflection is needed but we may be talking about two different things. A properly tightened blade without deflection would be in a straight line between the bottom points of each wheel, without any guide rollers touching the blade. The guide rollers are used to move the blade downwards, generally 1/8 to 1/4" below the bottom of the wheels. The blade between the guide rollers must be parallel to the bed of the mill. When the blade is moving, but not in the log the back edge of the blade should clear the rear of the roller by 1/8 to 1/4". Make sure the front of the guide roller is behind the gullet of the teeth.

Some things to consider, hopefully someone more knowledgeable about your brand of mill will chime in. It is extremely disappointing to get a new tool and not be able to get it working properly.


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## danjp57

*Wave cuts*



jkleitner said:


> Ok everyone, I milled my first few cuts today. I cut three boards from a walnut log I felled about 6 months ago. I am very disappointed in how the mill cut. The log vibrated a lot, the cut was extremely wavy and the cut surface was really jagged and rough. My csm doesnt cut as fast but the cut is 10 times smoother than this mill cut. Also, although there was no metal in the wood, three teeth on the blade were torn off.
> 
> What is causing the terrible cut? I checked and the band has minimal deflection. About 1/4th to 1/2 inch total. The guide berings were almost touching the back of the blade and the guide bushings were close to the band. I think they were a bit too far away but not grossly so. This was using the factory band so maybe it is just that terrible. I have new bands on order. Any suggestions? Thanks.
> Josh


I didn't even use the factory blade to cut anything I was going to use,,,,I used it to get a feel for the mill only. I'm lucky because the Wood-Mizer location that sharpens blades is just up the road from me and they carry new Blades--,,They have a CHART that tells what blades CUT what WOOD the best on their SITE!!,,That Factory blade that came with that mill if I remember correctly was probably for soft wood...Myself I kept count on how many logs I cut before I saw or felt a problem with the Blade,,I only cut sorft-wood so far so DON'T use this count for hard-wood,,I could cut around 10 Logs 8 ft long before the (WAVE) would show up,, One time I thought I changed the blade at 10 Logs and the next thing I knew after a couple logs down the milling BIG TIME WAVES,,, New SHARP Blade and BACK IN BUSSINESS!!..Oh I did Mill a Wild Cherry I had up back and it cut great with my soft wood blade...Also remember like with ANY Machinery new belts STRECTH,,so if your BLADE one day STOPS turning while milling its slipping and the motor needs shifting a little to tighten that belt,,Oh,,And this is just my perspective the Soap in the water deal for better cuts doesn't fly with this mill because the blade RIDES on TOP of the BELT,,many mills the blades rides rides its own pully and a separate one for the belt,,SO SOAP can and WILL make the BLADE SLIP,,,I use regular water and the slip went away,,maybe it was the type of soap I used,,Don't know for sure and don't care NO more soap for me in my mill water,,, Good luck Guyszz with your Mills,,I cuts so many logs last summer I got kinda burnt out ,,kinda lost my thrill for cutting this year,,Will probably fire it up soon just to make sure its still running well,,I'll try an attach pic's of my Camp I'm board and batten from boards from my mill..


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## jkleitner

Thanks for the replies guys. Tom, I live just down the road from you in Gardner. If I cant get this mill working, I may see if I can come watch you mill something if that is alright.

I guess I need to order a better band and readjust the band berings, bushings and tension. Thanks again everyone.

Josh


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## Tom the Sawyer

Josh,

The KCK threw me. Gardner is close, I'm on the west edge of the Sunflower Plant. If your having difficulties give me a call, I'd be glad to stop by and see what's going on. Contact info on my website, www.TomTheSawyer.net 

Take care,
Tom


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## BobInMN

BobInMN said:


> I had to call HF yesterday to give them a new credit card number (the card I had ordered with expired). They told me I would get it at the same price I originally ordered it at (less than $1600 total). Imagine my surprise when I got the new invoice in my email, over $2700. I got right back on the phone, they said the invoice wasn't processed yet and to call them back today to straighten it out. They also said I wouldn't lose my place in line to get my mill. We'll see.


 

Called HF CS today. Good news is I get the mill at the original price I paid, bad news is I go to the end of the waiting list. They said my mill is on back order until November. Unfriendly lady basically said that if I didn't like it I could cancel my order. At the price I'm getting it I'm still willing to wait.


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## BobInMN

Got the following email from HF yesterday. Called them and they said I could not reorder due to the fact that the factory is no longer making them. Maybe a blessing because the wife and I are talking of buying a better mill than HF offered.

Oh, I don't know where that back order number came from. It doesn't match anything HF sent me in the past.


Dear Harbor Freight Tools Customer,


Thank you for your recent inquiry. The back order 9189198 stated 6/18/13 was cancelled. The back order date is now 11/8/13. If you would like to place a new order you are welcome to. You were never charged for this item. 

I am sending you a gift card in the amount of 25.00 for the inconvenience. 

If you have questions, feel free to contact us at 1-800-444-3353. We are available Monday through Saturday 5:00 am – 9:00 pm, Sunday 6:00 am – 6:00 pm (PST). Please do not reply to this email.

Thank you.

*Harbor Freight Tools
Customer Service
*
*HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS 
Quality Tools at Ridiculously Low Prices*


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## jkleitner

Ok everyone, I have an update on my mill. The problem was the band. When you get your saws, throw the band away and put a good band on it before you even use it. The band is 144" long but there is plenty of adjustment in the wheels so when they ask about whether they should weld the band longer or shorter (to get evenly spaced teeth at the weld), Longer works well.

Attached is two pictures. One is with the Harbor Freight band and the other is a Cook's super sharp band. There truly is no comparison.


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## Dooner

*Hm126*

Was looking to by a Harbor Freight mill when it disappeared from their website. Ordered an HM126 instead last Tues, will be here next Monday. My partner and I are anxiously awaiting its arrival.


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## danjp57

*No more HF Mills*



Dooner said:


> Was looking to by a Harbor Freight mill when it disappeared from their website. Ordered an HM126 instead last Tues, will be here next Monday. My partner and I are anxiously awaiting its arrival.


looks like they got fed up with CHINA >>NOT<< being able to handle the orders and replacement parts,,lol,,Forget about it,,MONTHS an MONTHS to be a replacement part,,, You habve to NOW do a SPECIAL order just to get a part...Soon I'm sure we all will be out of luck getting ANY replacement parts too,,


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## Mountain

I bought a Hudson HFE 21E May of 2012, I went with this mill because it was the only one I could find with an electric motor option. This unit is a bit more expensive than the ones you all shown, but I can vouch for the fact that it is a good unit.










This unit is now like $3,100 or $3,200 now, comes with a ten horse electric motor, which will cut through elm well, have not cut any other hardwoods yet. I have cut well over 15,000 brd feet of logs basically 3 complete full log truck loads of logs on this thing since I got it. I had to work on the centrifugal switch in the motor and had to replace the belt and work on the winch within the last month, but all simple minor stuff so far.

I read a number of posts mentioning having people sharpen your blades, this is what I have been doing for my blades.










I bought a brand new bench grinder and shaped the stone to match the tooth and gullet on my blades. I simply set the blade up there and lightly tick it to the right against the stone on each tooth. It takes me about 5 to 8 minutes to sharpen a blade. My resharpens cut better than the original sharpenings, I assume they get banged around a bit at the factory or something. This a simple cheap and fairly easy way of sharpening your blades.

If anyone is interested I have a running thread going through my entire year with this Hudson mill, it has all the mods I have done and others have done. Three other people reading my thread bought this mill and they have all posted their experience as well.

http://www.survivalistboards.com/showthread.php?t=232553

My mill has been modded a fair bit, the stock mill will not do this, but these mills are capable of this.....


















This log was tad over 18 inches wide after doing some creative chainsaw work and was about 22 inches tall when I cut it on the mill. The cant was just under 16 inches square. I have cut up to 29 inches tall and 18 inch wide logs. I bought my mill so that I could afford to rebuild the buildings on this farm, I could never afford to buy all that wood. Now that I have learned better what I am doing and have learned how to finish my lumber out I have people showing up wanting to buy wood. I also can afford to go back to doing my wood working projects now. Life is good..... very very good....


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## Dooner

That looks like a real nice mill. If I had power at the location we plan to place our mill I'd certainly consider going electric, it has to be quieter. In other news, the shipper called and the HM126 will be delivered on Monday as promised. Order to arrival will be 10 business days, east coast to west coast.


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## Dooner

*HM126 Arrived*

Mill arrived right on time as scheduled, unpacked, track assembled, we'll finish up tomorrow morning.


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## Dooner

First lumber off the mill:









We're pretty happy.


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## BobInMN

*Harbor Freight Called*

I was very surprised to receive a call from HF asking me if I still wanted a mill. If you read my earlier posts you'll know that HF had canceled my order. They said that I would receive it for the original price I was quoted with the 25% off. They said that they were notified by the factory that the mills would be shipping in 2 weeks. HF said I should expect to receive my mill in 3 weeks.

I don't know how or why this happened, but I'm really happy that this came about. It was beginning to look like I wasn't going to get any kind of mill for some time. I've been getting asked by a lot of family and friends of "why the hell do you want a sawmill." I think they will quickly change their minds when they see what I can do with this baby! 

Is there anyone else here still waiting for a mill?


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## BobInMN

I was just wondering, how many of you guys here are still waiting for their mills to be delivered? If I go by the last info HF gave me mine should be here around September 4th. I'm afraid of saying or doing anything for fear of jinxing it. The way things stand right now I really can't afford spending much more for a mill. Besides the blades I already have the support equipment I need.


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## lcooke

yes Bob im still waiting,watch your account .H.F. hit my bank account last night for $2700 I called customer service and they said they will refund 1100 next week so that i get it for the original 1600 i ordered it for , i should get mine tues. or wed


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## BobInMN

Thanks for the reply, Lonnie. HF said mine was going to be picked up by the trucking company today, I would think tomorrow because of the holiday. What's one more day after waiting this long? :laughing: What are your plans for blades and sharpening? You are close to a Woodmizer dealer, aren't you? I've thought of using their resharp program, but I heard the shipping is a lot. Maybe I'll try what Mountain uses and then build a setter using plans I found on another forum. It would be nice to get one of the profiled CBN wheels, but I don't want to pay the $200 that they cost. Sorry for the rambling, I better get my butt in gear and finally decide what type of blades I'm going to use and get them ordered.


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## lcooke

im looking at the cooks blades, 10 for $155 and $9.95 shipping ,and i like mountains grinder idea for sharpening i think i will give that a try,i have a tracking # but with the holiday there is no info yet at con-way.com i hope a trucker pulls up tomorrow with it,i have to work but my wife can run the tractor pretty good she can hook up the forks and unload it.:thumbsup:


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## BobInMN

Lonnie, you probably got the same email as I did from HF today, said Con-Way picked it up this morning. Do you want a link to those instructions on how to build a setter? Read a lot about blades today. One guy from Woodmizer said that with a low HP mill a blade with a 4 degree hook cut much better than a 7 or 10 degree. Which Cook blade, I like the price?


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## lcooke

my mill was picked up today in cal. I live in savannah ga. so it has to travel all the way across the country , I should get it monday 9-9. but still no refund on the over charge. What is a setter ? Bob:huh:


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## BobInMN

I received the same delivery date, 9/9/13.

*Set*

This is the tooth configuration that creates the width of the kerf. It's purpose is to allow the body of the blade to pass through the cut without a lot of friction.

On some blades, it is accomplished by bending some of the teeth to one side of the blade and other teeth to the other side of the blade.

A modification of that, called a wave set, has the tooth edge of a band bent in a wave form. An example would be a hack-saw blade.

On some blades the end of the tooth is swaged (hammered wider than the stock) 

On some blades the tip of the tooth has a hardened piece of metal affixed that is wider than the blade body.

*Additional or regional comments : *
Set keeps the body of the blade from heating by minimizing friction of the body of the blade in the kerf. It is also responsible for helping to guide the blade by keeping the blade from catastrophic wandering.


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## lcooke

*no refund yet*

Hey Bob, just wondering if you had a problem with the price of your mill, I was over charged by $980 and still getting the run around on my refund 7 days now I have called every day and get some B.S. by a different person every time, I finally got a call three times today from a superviser promising a refund but still no $ :furious:


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## BobInMN

Lonnie, I'm not totally sure what they charged me, it's on my wife's CC. When they called to tell me that it would ship on 9/2/13 I asked them how much they billed the card for, it was about $100 less than what I thought it was supposed to be. I'm going to wait until my wife gets her statement and then see what's going on.

Here is a phone number they gave me to call back to when they called on 8/14/13 to see if I still wanted a mill, 805-388-1000, ext 7533. The person I spoke with at that number spoke very good English and was easy to do business with. Maybe they can help you, or is this the number you are calling now? I sure hope you can get it straightened out without anymore hassles.

Oh, I got a call today to set up an appointment for Monday for the delivery of my mill, it's in Des Moines, IA tonight. Getting trucked to a distribution center about 60 miles from my house over the weekend. As many times as this carton is getting loaded and unloaded at all these different distribution centers no wonder they sometimes have a lot of damage to them.:laughing:


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## lcooke

I also got a call sat. from trucking co. my mill will be here monday after noon , so im taking off work at noon tomorrow, FINALLY. I will try to post pics when I get it together, I really like the electric mill that mountain has, maybe I can afford one in a couple of years , but I think this h.f. mill will be good enough to learn on . I love woodworking , never milled anything but I have 15 acres of good straight pine.should be a lot of fun , Cant wait to get started


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## lcooke

H.F. mill delivered today @ 1pm , sawing @ 630pm , :smile: works great, better than I expected for the price. I will try to post pics.


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## BobInMN

Looks great, Lonnie. I got a call from Conway this morning telling me that it didn't arrive from the Des Moines Distribution Center and that they could not deliver it until tomorrow. I just checked, it's been sitting down there since 9:00 PM Friday night and is still sitting there as of now, 9:15 PM. I kinda doubt that I will see it tomorrow. Must not have enough to make a load to Owatonna, MN, the distribution center that's about 60 miles from my house.


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## mike from ft collins

*Spares you will need*



lcooke said:


> H.F. mill delivered today @ 1pm , sawing @ 630pm , :smile: works great, better than I expected for the price. I will try to post pics.


Here are some tips that might save you some time.
I have milled a few hundred pine logs so far and here is what I have found.
Throw away the blade that came with the saw as soon as you are done testing the setup of the mill. They might as well have put a Cardboard pretend blade in its place. It will not cut well and might even be dangerous when it breaks. Mine was cracked at every gullet when it finally mercifully fell off the saw. 
I love the woodmizer blades. I am on my 28th blade and have had zero trouble with them. I have .042 and .045 blades with 9 and 10 deg and both work well.
Don't run the blade into metal. Sounds obvious but triple check and watch while you are sawing. The clamp crank should always be down when you are done tightening. Blade 27 caught the handle. The log stops should go to the lowest position as soon as you have th log squared off.
When you hear a strange sound stop immediately and investigate. Don't saw through the broad head arrow tip hidden in the tree like I did.
Buy a trailer jack from harbor freight. The one with the triangular mount has the same lead screw as the mill but has a 1" steel nut instead of the brass one that will strip out on log number 6. It will take about an hour to cut down the round nut to fit the rectangular tube.
Put a piece of metal screen under the air filter. The 20" sq.in. Air filter becomes 1 sq.in as soon as you get saw dust on it. It will be sucked down to the carburetor inlet without the screen. A piece of microfiber towel over the top might also keep things cleaner but I haven't yet tried it.
Get some spare spark plugs. I went one hotter than what came with the mill but I am running at 8000 ft elevation. Stock might work well at sea level.
Lube the vertical slides with a dry lubricant.
Replace the paper scale with a stainless steel ruler. The ruler from the 16in adjustable square at HF works well.
Get some spare bearings for behind the blade. They are about 20$ for 10 bearings on line. After every five to ten blades replace the bearings. Don't wait till the grove in them is deep. 
Replace the cheap throttle control with a bike shifter part or hand made steel part. 
Add 12 ft of track if you have tall trees available. Decks, gazebos, sheds etc want longer boards than 9.5ft.
Have fun with your mill. Mine is the best toy I've ever had.


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## BobInMN

Received my mill this morning. Good thing I have forks for my tractor, truck didn't have a lift gate, carton weighs 700lbs. I will have to wait for some help setting it up. I have some disabilities that will prevent me from doing it myself.

Thanks, Mike. You helped me finally decide what band to buy. I couldn't decide between Cook's and Woodmizer. Cook's are cheaper, but their resharp program costs more.

Do you have a part number on that jack. I'm going to HF tomorrow, so I might as well pick it up.

What do you use for a dry lube? Silicon?


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## mike from ft collins

The jack part number is 92626. I used the leadscrew and nut and maybe the thrust ball bearing and race. If they haven't changed the design the parts will fit right in except cutting the sides off the large round nut.

I used a spray can of lube made for caterpillar that has molybdenum di-sulfide until it ran out. I now have a can of spray made for garage doors. I suspect anything that dries quickly would work. 

One other tip is to always lower the head below the next cut level and then crank it up into position. Go slowly for the last turn of the crank as it may creep up a little after you stop cranking. Getting the boards the same thickness takes a bit of practice.

If you search the woodmizer site you will find a 5 pack of blades for just a little more per blade than the 15 pack. They only offer one style in the 5 pack but it does give you a chance to try them before putting 300$ into blades. That said, I woudn't hesitate to watch their video, pick the blade best for you and buy a pack of 15. I get 2-4 days of cutting pine per blade if I don't hit any steel so I get a full year out of 15 blades. I will send 30 in for sharpening when I dull a couple more. I haven't ever used water on the blades and I cut a lot of trees with bark and some dirt on them. I get longer blade life on well dried clean logs but peeling bark is a lot of work even when the beetles eat the inner bark.

Let me know if you have problems or have other question.


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## Mountain

I use a mixture of water with a little pine sol and dish detergent in it for my blade, it helps lubricate the blade to reduce friction and it helps to keep any pitch from building up on the blade, which also helps to reduce friction and heat on the blade.

I got right at about 6 months out of my first 16 blades, but I sharpen my own, I am at now at 15 months on my initial 16 blades that I started with. I figure I have about two sharpens a year on each blade and about 20 sharpens total. That should equate to about ten years of use for these 16 blades, equates to about $30 a year for me.

I had a weld break on a blade break about a week ago, I have had that happen to my vertical bandsaw before, but I just run down to Hahn rental and have them reweld the blade for the bandsaw, I imagine they should be able to do the bandmill blade as well.

Welcome to the hopeless addiction of owning a sawmill and milling wood. :yes:


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## lcooke

finally got a chance to use my mill, I love it, I ordered the cooks xcel silver blades they work great on pine . i didnt know how bad the stock blade was until i got my new blades in. i havnt had much time to work it yet but i have 7 ,12 to 20 inch pines 9 ft long i hope to get to this weekend :smile:


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## BobInMN

Hey, Lonnie, did you finally get the refund straightened out with HF? I ended up paying $1450. I'm not sure if they didn't charge me for tax or shipping, either way it was about $100 less than what I thought it was going to be.

I also finally got mine put together and it works great. I didn't even try using the blade that came with it. I'm using WM double-hard 10 degree. It surprised the heck out of me when it started on the very first pull. As long as I can remember to turn the switch on it doesn't really even take a full pull to start.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the only thing we would have to do to match Woodland Mills ability to mill 26" logs is to modify the location of the push/throttle handle? I've been thinking of adding some supports to make the saw head a little more stable. I've also been thinking of installing a direct read out in addition to having the scale. I think you can get one for about $30. Someone said that an hour meter would cost $10. I haven't found anything cheaper than $30 plus about $10 shipping.

Everyone that has watched me saw or seen the lumber thinks it's pretty cool. I've even got family looking for logs now. Pretty good considering they all were wondering what the heck I wanted a mill for.


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## lcooke

yes I finally got my refund after three weeks and calling every day, I ended up paying $1633 to my door, I finally got to mill a couple of logs today I have a nice stack of lumber out of 2 pines about 20 inches. as for the scale I had a broke stanley tape so I just cut it off and taped it over the paper one that came on it , works fine for me. i havent looked at trying to mill anything bigger, the 20 inch logs are plenty big enough to handle by myself. I made another slide clamp
to secure the logs,I will get some pics later this week .:icon_smile:


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## DannysCam

i just ordered for $1425 but with tax and shipping $1628, this forum has helped me so much thanks to all who posted here. know it might take them 6 months to ship it i don't mind that will give me 6 months to start cutting logs and stacking them i have questions, the main reason im buying this mill is for siding i need to cut enough siding to cover 3 double wide trailers what wood should i use for the siding oak or pine? can i mix oak and pine? whats the best water seal to use? and whats the best way to make extension track. i have about 6 acres of pine and oak i can use any tips that can help me would be greatly appreciated


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## mikeswoods

Red oak or white oak?

White oak would be great--pine next best--red oak last choice--it doesn't weather well----


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## reynoldston

Boy to own a saw mill and cut your own lumber sure sounds good. It would take a different type of person then me. To cut a tree down would be my biggest fear of killing myself. My next problem would be I would have to learn to cut lumber from a log the proper way. Then you would need a way to dry and store the lumber. Just seems you would be spending more time cutting and making useable lumber then working in your wood shop unless you plan on selling lumber.


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## Tilaran

Here fellow gramps.
http://www.picresize.com/


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## DannysCam

mikeswoods said:


> Red oak or white oak?
> 
> White oak would be great--pine next best--red oak last choice--it doesn't weather well----


i believe most of it is red oak and white oak and a bunch of pine but if i stain it does it matter? or will i be able to tell once im finished i hear that oak will last longer then pine but its harder to nail i hear:boat:


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## DannysCam

reynoldston said:


> Boy to own a saw mill and cut your own lumber sure sounds good. It would take a different type of person then me. To cut a tree down would be my biggest fear of killing myself. My next problem would be I would have to learn to cut lumber from a log the proper way. Then you would need a way to dry and store the lumber. Just seems you would be spending more time cutting and making useable lumber then working in your wood shop unless you plan on selling lumber.


im tired of having to buy low quality lumber at a high price i think i will take my chances with a saw mill


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## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> yes I finally got my refund after three weeks and calling every day, I ended up paying $1633 to my door, I finally got to mill a couple of logs today I have a nice stack of lumber out of 2 pines about 20 inches. as for the scale I had a broke stanley tape so I just cut it off and taped it over the paper one that came on it , works fine for me. i havent looked at trying to mill anything bigger, the 20 inch logs are plenty big enough to handle by myself. I made another slide clamp
> to secure the logs,I will get some pics later this week .:icon_smile:


im glad it worked out for you i justed order today and it saids on my account on harbor freight that my order is processing how long does processing take?


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## BobInMN

DannysCam said:


> and whats the best way to make extension track.


I didn't know that HF was selling them again, they had stopped for a while. Great deal, you are going to love your mill.

How long do you want to extend your mill? When I do mine I'm going to buy two 20 foot sticks of angle iron and replace the track I have now. I will bolt everything because I'm afraid I'll warp it if I try welding it. With 20' I will be able to cut 16' and I doubt if I will ever want to cut longer.


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## danjp57

*Type siding & Stain*



DannysCam said:


> i just ordered for $1425 but with tax and shipping $1628, this forum has helped me so much thanks to all who posted here. know it might take them 6 months to ship it i don't mind that will give me 6 months to start cutting logs and stacking them i have questions, the main reason im buying this mill is for siding i need to cut enough siding to cover 3 double wide trailers what wood should i use for the siding oak or pine? can i mix oak and pine? whats the best water seal to use? and whats the best way to make extension track. i have about 6 acres of pine and oak i can use any tips that can help me would be greatly appreciated


Hey Dan, This is the stain I used with the Cedar looking color (Posting Picture of Cans),, Not sure the color your looking for...,,, I used (WHITE PINE)put shortly after cutting on my mill,, Had my Wife stain with clear coat on the back of the boards an then the STAIN Color on the face of the Boards & Battens,,Some has been up over a year and No fading or Splits at all... I also used my Router to put a edge on my battens for a better looking batten,,, Do you know how to Put up Boards an battens?? If Not I'll tell you how I put mine up... Good luck and have FUN!!


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## DannysCam

BobInMN said:


> I didn't know that HF was selling them again, they had stopped for a while. Great deal, you are going to love your mill.
> 
> How long do you want to extend your mill? When I do mine I'm going to buy two 20 foot sticks of angle iron and replace the track I have now. I will bolt everything because I'm afraid I'll warp it if I try welding it. With 20' I will be able to cut 16' and I doubt if I will ever want to cut longer.


i would love to be able to do 20 foot or longer i did notice on the woodland mills video on youtube he states that they use lazer cut angle iron instead of what you can get off the shelf does it really make a difference? the woodlands mill looks alot like this one, 6 feet of track for $375 thats alot for only 6 feet....i was hoping HF would start selling the track again tell me your plans and how your going to do it what about the bunkers?


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## DannysCam

danjp57 said:


> Hey Dan, This is the stain I used with the Cedar looking color (Posting Picture of Cans),, Not sure the color your looking for...,,, I used (WHITE PINE)put shortly after cutting on my mill,, Had my Wife stain with clear coat on the back of the boards an then the STAIN Color on the face of the Boards & Battens,,Some has been up over a year and No fading or Splits at all... I also used my Router to put a edge on my battens for a better looking batten,,, Do you know how to Put up Boards an battens?? If Not I'll tell you how I put mine up... Good luck and have FUN!!


that looks great! are those 1/2 boards? and how wide are they? i love that look its better then plastic siding any day tell me more about how you did it? did you have to put up cross nailers to nail to?


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## DannysCam

Mountain said:


> I use a mixture of water with a little pine sol and dish detergent in it for my blade, it helps lubricate the blade to reduce friction and it helps to keep any pitch from building up on the blade, which also helps to reduce friction and heat on the blade.
> 
> I got right at about 6 months out of my first 16 blades, but I sharpen my own, I am at now at 15 months on my initial 16 blades that I started with. I figure I have about two sharpens a year on each blade and about 20 sharpens total. That should equate to about ten years of use for these 16 blades, equates to about $30 a year for me.
> 
> I had a weld break on a blade break about a week ago, I have had that happen to my vertical bandsaw before, but I just run down to Hahn rental and have them reweld the blade for the bandsaw, I imagine they should be able to do the bandmill blade as well.
> 
> Welcome to the hopeless addiction of owning a sawmill and milling wood. :yes:


i love the idea of a electric one is it 220 or 110? how many amps does it pull? does the wire get in the way? thanks for posting how to sharpen the blades sounds like your going to get a lot of life out of them, do you ever plain the wood down?


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## danjp57

*Board & Batten*



DannysCam said:


> that looks great! are those 1/2 boards? and how wide are they? i love that look its better then plastic siding any day tell me more about how you did it? did you have to put up cross nailers to nail to?


Hey Dan, No this are 1 inch Boards,,, and 1 inch Battens,, No strips behind the board, I just laid right up on the pink insulation you see in the pictures,, Some people suggest using furring strips I chose not to..
I did (NOT) cut every board to a particular width size I just used them as I cut from any size logs,, I cut my battens on a Table saw,,and then ran through my Router for the nice edging,,, I would try an keep my battens at 3 inches but no big deal if you have a board 14 inches wide to divide in a little wider batten,, can't even notice it,,, I used 3 screws on the left side of EACH board ,,One in the center left--top left--bottom left,,,
The right side of boards you want to float.>NO Screws at all
Leave a Guesstimate 1 inch gap between boards
On the batten I used 3 screws each also,,,
One screw in the middle one near the top and one near the bottom.
Good luck and have FUN!! Neighbors will love the look,,Mine do,,


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## lcooke

*good weekend*

good weekend milling


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## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> good weekend milling


you got a nice stack of lumber there!! all that wood might have cost you a couple of hundred dollars to get from home depot and chances are it would be low quality lumber..:yes:


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## DannysCam

i have had a hard time ordering my sawmill my bank kept rejecting HFs billing.. i called the bank today and they said that HF is based in California and that i can't use my debit card there because of there high credit card fraud problem she had to give me special permission just to order from California..... i told her last time i checked California was still a part of the united states of America..... lest hope i get it, when i reordered from HF they said they have them in stock! and that they will ship in 10 to 20 days


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## lcooke

*billing*



DannysCam said:


> i have had a hard time ordering my sawmill my bank kept rejecting HFs billing.. i called the bank today and they said that HF is based in California and that i can't use my debit card there because of there high credit card fraud problem she had to give me special permission just to order from California..... i told her last time i checked California was still a part of the united states of America..... lest hope i get it, when i reordered from HF they said they have them in stock! and that they will ship in 10 to 20 days


thanks Danny ,it is a nice stack,--- when I ordered my mill I was told that I wouldnt be billed until the mill was shipped, and i wasnt, but it may be better to use a credit card if you have one because when they billed my debit card they charged me $ 2700 and it took three weeks of calling every day to finally get a refund which didnt happen until i recieved the mill. kinda put me in a bind for a few weeks so unless you have a couple thousand extra I would recommend using a credit card. they never mentioned the california issue to me. but the mill is great for the price, I have made a few adjustments I will try to get pics and details this weekend .


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## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> thanks Danny ,it is a nice stack,--- when I ordered my mill I was told that I wouldnt be billed until the mill was shipped, and i wasnt, but it may be better to use a credit card if you have one because when they billed my debit card they charged me $ 2700 and it took three weeks of calling every day to finally get a refund which didnt happen until i recieved the mill. kinda put me in a bind for a few weeks so unless you have a couple thousand extra I would recommend using a credit card. they never mentioned the california issue to me. but the mill is great for the price, I have made a few adjustments I will try to get pics and details this weekend .


 looks like they took the money out of my account about a hour ago $1628.47 cents did they every email you when it shipped?? and did you have to pay a extra lift gate charge i tryed to tell the guy from HF i have a old front end loader i don't need a truck with a lift gate but he said thats up to the shipping company.. its still a great deal i can't wait to start cutting wood are you using the blade it came with?


----------



## DannysCam

its shipped by conway freight !!! time to start sharpening the chain saws and rebuilding there carbs lol its cutting time


----------



## lcooke

*shipping*



DannysCam said:


> looks like they took the money out of my account about a hour ago $1628.47 cents did they every email you when it shipped?? and did you have to pay a extra lift gate charge i tryed to tell the guy from HF i have a old front end loader i don't need a truck with a lift gate but he said thats up to the shipping company.. its still a great deal i can't wait to start cutting wood are you using the blade it came with?


Yes they did email me when it shipped,it took about 3 weeks from the time they took the money,mine came from californias port also by conway,i didnt ask about the lift gate but it was delivered at no extra charge with a lift gate truck, my neighbor beat me to my house and said he just had to help the driver get it to the back of the truck....I did use the blade it came with on 2 6x6 cedar post my neighbor had but hit a nail on the second one,ordered cooks super sharp, they work good on green pine ,but I have nothing to compare them to and I am new to this so im not a good source of advice but I will share everything I learn. I live in georgia too but maybe you will get yours sooner.


----------



## lcooke

dont try to cut larger than 20 inch log , I have already ruined one roller bearing trying to cut a 23 inch, if it feels like you are pushing too hard ,you are, the threads on the log clamp striped out already but i just welded a smaller nut where the threaded rod goes through and used a piece of stainless threaded rod i had in my shop. it only comes with one log clamp, I think it needs more so I have made 2 more because I plan on extending the tracks to be able to make 16 ft. lumber,dont think I could handle any longer by myself, im also making some wire wheel brackets to clean the saw dust out of the grooves on the wheels, thats something I seen on another mill that i couldnt afford right now but a must have.dont clean the grooves out with a screwdriver ,it scratches the alluminum and makes it pick up more sawdust,buy some white lithium spray ,well at least thats what i use on the posts and cables. thats all I can pass on so far,I will try to get picsof the parts i make this weekend. its nearly dark when i get home from work during the week and hard to pry myself away from the mill on the weekend... most of all HAVE FUN


----------



## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> Yes they did email me when it shipped,it took about 3 weeks from the time they took the money,mine came from californias port also by conway,i didnt ask about the lift gate but it was delivered at no extra charge with a lift gate truck, my neighbor beat me to my house and said he just had to help the driver get it to the back of the truck....I did use the blade it came with on 2 6x6 cedar post my neighbor had but hit a nail on the second one,ordered cooks super sharp, they work good on green pine ,but I have nothing to compare them to and I am new to this so im not a good source of advice but I will share everything I learn. I live in georgia too but maybe you will get yours sooner.


 im calling in sick tomorrow even if it does not come in befor this week end i could use a couple of days to mark trees im gonna cut lol they gave me a tracking number but its not working.... i keep hearing about those cook blades being good how much was one?


----------



## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> dont try to cut larger than 20 inch log , I have already ruined one roller bearing trying to cut a 23 inch, if it feels like you are pushing too hard ,you are, the threads on the log clamp striped out already but i just welded a smaller nut where the threaded rod goes through and used a piece of stainless threaded rod i had in my shop. it only comes with one log clamp, I think it needs more so I have made 2 more because I plan on extending the tracks to be able to make 16 ft. lumber,dont think I could handle any longer by myself, im also making some wire wheel brackets to clean the saw dust out of the grooves on the wheels, thats something I seen on another mill that i couldnt afford right now but a must have.dont clean the grooves out with a screwdriver ,it scratches the alluminum and makes it pick up more sawdust,buy some white lithium spray ,well at least thats what i use on the posts and cables. thats all I can pass on so far,I will try to get picsof the parts i make this weekend. its nearly dark when i get home from work during the week and hard to pry myself away from the mill on the weekend... most of all HAVE FUN


 whats keeping you from cutting bigger stuff is it the guide bearing?


----------



## lcooke

DannysCam said:


> whats keeping you from cutting bigger stuff is it the guide bearing?


 what determines the log size you can cut is the distance between the upright post that hold up the cutting head and the heighth that the blade will lift . the cooks blades are $15 each but you have to order a minimum of 10 , mine was 160 something with shipping. took about 10 daysto get them.


----------



## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> what determines the log size you can cut is the distance between the upright post that hold up the cutting head and the heighth that the blade will lift . the cooks blades are $15 each but you have to order a minimum of 10 , mine was 160 something with shipping. took about 10 daysto get them.


what size of blades does it take i saw alot of options on there website


----------



## BobInMN

lcooke said:


> what determines the log size you can cut is the distance between the upright post that hold up the cutting head and the heighth that the blade will lift . the cooks blades are $15 each but you have to order a minimum of 10 , mine was 160 something with shipping. took about 10 daysto get them.


If you do a little modification to the mill you can relocate the push/throttle bar and gain the 6" to cut the same diameter as a Woodland Mill. You will still be limited to a 20" board width, just like the Woodland.


----------



## lcooke

*modification*



BobInMN said:


> If you do a little modification to the mill you can relocate the push/throttle bar and gain the 6" to cut the same diameter as a Woodland Mill. You will still be limited to a 20" board width, just like the Woodland.


 have you already made the mod.? if you have post pics please


----------



## lcooke

*blades*



DannysCam said:


> what size of blades does it take i saw alot of options on there website


 144'' x1-1/4 x.042 x7/8 ... if you call cooks and tell them the mill you ordered they know which blades fit it , very nice and helpfull people


----------



## lcooke

a couple of pics of the log clamps I made and I also welded a 1/4 inch nut on the end where the crank handle was ,so I can now use my cordless drill to run the clamps in to the log, nothing fancy but I just taped on old broke tape over the paper one that came on my mill.


----------



## lcooke

*sawmill manual*



DannysCam said:


> what size of blades does it take i saw alot of options on there website


 If you go to harbor freights website and type in sawmill on the search bar then click on the pic of it , on the next page you can download a manual of the mill that will give you the spec.


----------



## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> a couple of pics of the log clamps I made and I also welded a 1/4 inch nut on the end where the crank handle was ,so I can now use my cordless drill to run the clamps in to the log, nothing fancy but I just taped on old broke tape over the paper one that came on my mill.


nice job how much lumber have you milled so far?


----------



## BobInMN

lcooke said:


> have you already made the mod.? if you have post pics please


 
I haven't yet, but what I plan on doing is adding some 2"X2" steel uprights going up from where the rear track wheels are. If you take a look at a Woodland Mill you will see where they extended above where they are cut off and boxed on our mills. Woodland makes the push/throttle bar adjustable in height. I don't think I will make it adjustable. I want to try and figure out some way to brace the 2"X2" uprights to the posts on the mill head to make it a little more stable.

I haven't been doing any milling lately. I have been trying to get my shop and storage buildings cleaned out and organized before winter hits. I have a 14' frame from a trailer I built several years ago that I want to adapt to a log trailer over winter. I have a 30' X 48' shop that I've got to get cleaned up and organized before I do any projects. Sometimes I think it would just be easier to build a new shop.


----------



## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> If you go to harbor freights website and type in sawmill on the search bar then click on the pic of it , on the next page you can download a manual of the mill that will give you the spec.


i just order Box of 10 Cook's Xcel Silver 144" 1-1/4 x .042 x 7/8" Blades looks like thats the right ones came out to be like $165 with tax and shipping


----------



## toddheath2005

I have been buying lenox woodmaster blades from spectrum and they have been great to deal with and the blades are usually shipped the same day so not much down time. I have never had any issues with them. I am very sure most of the blades out there are high quality that's who I found years ago when I first got the mill and just kept them because I get super fast shipping and the blades have always been high quality and very sharp. I mill a lot of Osage orange "hedge" and have never had a failure and as we all know that one of the hardest woods god created. Any how that's my 2 cents worth sorry for the ramble typing on my phone from the barn not the same as a computer keyboard.:


----------



## DannysCam

toddheath2005 said:


> I have been buying lenox woodmaster blades from spectrum and they have been great to deal with and the blades are usually shipped the same day so not much down time. I have never had any issues with them. I am very sure most of the blades out there are high quality that's who I found years ago when I first got the mill and just kept them because I get super fast shipping and the blades have always been high quality and very sharp. I mill a lot of Osage orange "hedge" and have never had a failure and as we all know that one of the hardest woods god created. Any how that's my 2 cents worth sorry for the ramble typing on my phone from the barn not the same as a computer keyboard.:


how much are they per blade? and what sawmill do you use them on?


----------



## DannysCam

it came today i had to have the truck driver drop it in the road then i used my skid steer to push it up my drive way.. it came with a extra blade and a warning saying to take off the blade thats on it and throw it away and to put on this blade lol... i have not taken it out of its metal crate yet i think i might be able to start putting it together after work tomorrow


----------



## lcooke

DannysCam said:


> it came today i had to have the truck driver drop it in the road then i used my skid steer to push it up my drive way.. it came with a extra blade and a warning saying to take off the blade thats on it and throw it away and to put on this blade lol... i have not taken it out of its metal crate yet i think i might be able to start putting it together after work tomorrow


 COOL, that was fairly quick considering how long some of us waited .


----------



## DannysCam

lcooke said:


> COOL, that was fairly quick considering how long some of us waited .


i know i have been cutting sweet gum i need to redo my leveled blocks the virberations keep breaking them and making my mill get off level i saw some one use 6x6 post with 4x4 going across that might be a good idea


----------



## panther49

Hi to all!
I'm new to the forum and found this thread since I just received my Harbor Freight Sawmill.
I have a question; I read somewhere that HF sells or used to sell an extension kit for the sawmill to be able to cut longer boards. At HF they don't know what I am talking about!. Maybe one of you knows what is the product number of this kit.
I'll be posting pics of the mill soon!!
JC


----------



## danjp57

*extension*



panther49 said:


> Hi to all!
> I'm new to the forum and found this thread since I just received my Harbor Freight Sawmill.
> I have a question; I read somewhere that HF sells or used to sell an extension kit for the sawmill to be able to cut longer boards. At HF they don't know what I am talking about!. Maybe one of you knows what is the product number of this kit.
> I'll be posting pics of the mill soon!!
> JC


Just go to the PARTS list for the mill you bought and BUY the Rails and the CROSS members ,,, think it out so you get ALL what you will need in ONE Order,,,


----------



## DannysCam

panther49 said:


> Hi to all!
> I'm new to the forum and found this thread since I just received my Harbor Freight Sawmill.
> I have a question; I read somewhere that HF sells or used to sell an extension kit for the sawmill to be able to cut longer boards. At HF they don't know what I am talking about!. Maybe one of you knows what is the product number of this kit.
> I'll be posting pics of the mill soon!!
> JC


i know woodland mills sell track that should fit they sell a 6 foot section for 375 dollars that seems high to me...


----------



## panther49

How idiotic of me! ordering another track bed is the obvious solution, unless the price it's outrageous. I'll ask HF.
My sawmill came with a cheapo blade installed and a large sticker warning the user to replace the installed blade with a replacement that they enclosed. The replacement is a Lenox, made in USA. I replaced it and tried the sawmill and it works as a charm.
I have made only but a few cuts yet, of course. The remote throttle already let go, but it's a matter of tightening a screw.
The instructions are a little obtuse, specially the blade adjustment. But I got it right and it cuts fine, considering that I have zero experience with these devilish machines. I am proceeding with extreme caution in everything I do with this thing for the same reason.
I'll be using this to cut about 50 pine logs I have for different projects in the small farm I bought.
I know I'll need extra blades so I would appreciate if I could get suggestions where to buy in the internet since they are apparently very difficult to get in Florida.
Anyhow, thanks for the advice!
By the way: I bolted the rails over two 4x6 PT, resting on cement blocks. Then I sank 4, 4x4 PT, 38" on the ground and bolted the 4x4's to the 4x6 runners with 1/2 inch bolts. It's not going anywhere!


----------



## panther49

*A few pics of the sawmill...*

Here are a couple of pics. The logs:they have been drying and the bark falls off easy. Transporting the heavy head with the little LS tractor to the site. The sawmill installed and finally my son Danny with a newly cut board.


----------



## lcooke

*tracks*



panther49 said:


> Hi to all!
> I'm new to the forum and found this thread since I just received my Harbor Freight Sawmill.
> I have a question; I read somewhere that HF sells or used to sell an extension kit for the sawmill to be able to cut longer boards. At HF they don't know what I am talking about!. Maybe one of you knows what is the product number of this kit.
> I'll be posting pics of the mill soon!!
> JC[/QUOTE the only thing you need to extend the track is a couple pieces of 2" x 4" angle iron, you can buy from any steel supplyer and a few pieces to connect them together , you can make the pieces the logs sit on out of trees that you mill . I'm going to extend mine soon , when i get some time off. probably for about $100 . i will post pics when it is done.


----------



## DannysCam

panther49 said:


> Here are a couple of pics. The logs:they have been drying and the bark falls off easy. Transporting the heavy head with the little LS tractor to the site. The sawmill installed and finally my son Danny with a newly cut board.


great work heres a link to a video i did about the blades 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7L24B5BFFFk&feature=youtu.be cooks blades seem to be the best


----------



## panther49

TexasTimbers said:


> I just have a hard time finding sympathy for buyers who purchase the HF mill, when plenty of one man and small USA builders are still able to be found. You'll get a better made mill, usually made with parts you can find at your local hardware store, and you won't be put on unbelievably long backorder list. heck you will even GET a mill not the run-around.
> 
> Yes I know I have heard the "But I cannot afford an American made mill!". Bull! The mill is just the start. You have to invest in equipment costing that much and more, just buy the USA made mill now and add the support equipment as you can.
> 
> 
> You get what you pay for and it's no different with sawmills. And yes my advice is free so take *that* for what it's worth too.
> 
> 
> :wacko:


You have a good point here. I just watched a documentary in Netflix called "Death by China". Everybody in this country should watch this film. Still, I bought the Harbor Freight Sawmill. I think it's a combination of factors that made me do this. I bought the thing to dabble with it. I have a limited number of logs (pines) obtained in the process of clearing some areas of a small farm I bought. After the logs are gone, probably I'll have very little use for it. My budget have already been severely dented by fences, road, barn pad, ditches, tools, new tractor (another first for me too!), and I still have to build the barn, make corrals, buy animals, etc, etc.
Probably the Chinese are going to use these sawmills to decapitate us all.
I don't know how this trend could be reversed. Apparently the Chicoms keep their currency devaluated and pay the American manufactures a profit IN CHINA. The American companies sell the products in America at cost.
The only way we could stop this would be if nobody bought anything made in China. I don't know, probably we are doomed.


----------



## DannysCam

panther49 said:


> You have a good point here. I just watched a documentary in Netflix called "Death by China". Everybody in this country should watch this film. Still, I bought the Harbor Freight Sawmill. I think it's a combination of factors that made me do this. I bought the thing to dabble with it. I have a limited number of logs (pines) obtained in the process of clearing some areas of a small farm I bought. After the logs are gone, probably I'll have very little use for it. My budget have already been severely dented by fences, road, barn pad, ditches, tools, new tractor (another first for me too!), and I still have to build the barn, make corrals, buy animals, etc, etc.
> Probably the Chinese are going to use these sawmills to decapitate us all.
> I don't know how this trend could be reversed. Apparently the Chicoms keep their currency devaluated and pay the American manufactures a profit IN CHINA. The American companies sell the products in America at cost.
> The only way we could stop this would be if nobody bought anything made in China. I don't know, probably we are doomed.


i use to believe BE AMERICAN BUY AMERICAN! but now that even the usa olympics team doesn't even wear uniforms made in america......this is OBAMAs america we have to do what every we can to survive now..... we are the rats on a sinking ship that was once great.....


----------



## Mountain

lcooke said:


> dont try to cut larger than 20 inch log , I have already ruined one roller bearing trying to cut a 23 inch, if it feels like you are pushing too hard ,you are, the threads on the log clamp striped out already but i just welded a smaller nut where the threaded rod goes through and used a piece of stainless threaded rod i had in my shop. it only comes with one log clamp, I think it needs more so I have made 2 more because I plan on extending the tracks to be able to make 16 ft. lumber,dont think I could handle any longer by myself, im also making some *wire wheel brackets to clean the saw dust out of the grooves on the wheels*, thats something I seen on another mill that i couldnt afford right now but a must have.dont clean the grooves out with a screwdriver ,it scratches the alluminum and makes it pick up more sawdust,buy some white lithium spray ,well at least thats what i use on the posts and cables. thats all I can pass on so far,I will try to get picsof the parts i make this weekend. its nearly dark when i get home from work during the week and hard to pry myself away from the mill on the weekend... most of all HAVE FUN


Sorry I do not have the HF mill alas I went American made a Hudson bandmill... 

I had a lot of trouble with the wheels on mine as well, the track would get really sticky with sap and just pack those wheels full in literally a few passes, some wheels would be off by 1/8 inch in just a few passes. Here is what I did, and man I wish I had thought of it sooner, I was cleaning my tracks and wheels several times a day until I did this.


















I have run my mill for many months now since I did this and have not had to clean my tracks or wheels one time since. Very simple, very easy and very cheap.... but also very effective.. These HF mills are bit different than mine, but you should easily be able to do something like this and save all that headache.

The brushes in front and in back of the wheels keeps the tracks clear of sawdust and the tack welded nail heads dislodge anything that might get into there and try packing in to the wheel groove.


----------



## DannysCam

Mountain said:


> Sorry I do not have the HF mill alas I went American made a Hudson bandmill...
> 
> I had a lot of trouble with the wheels on mine as well, the track would get really sticky with sap and just pack those wheels full in literally a few passes, some wheels would be off by 1/8 inch in just a few passes. Here is what I did, and man I wish I had thought of it sooner, I was cleaning my tracks and wheels several times a day until I did this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have run my mill for many months now since I did this and have not had to clean my tracks or wheels one time since. Very simple, very easy and very cheap.... but also very effective.. These HF mills are bit different than mine, but you should easily be able to do something like this and save all that headache.
> 
> The brushes in front and in back of the wheels keeps the tracks clear of sawdust and the tack welded nail heads dislodge anything that might get into there and try packing in to the wheel groove.


nice work i need to do some thing like this soon


----------



## panther49

Extending the tracks of the HF Sawmill.
As suggested by danjp57, I called the 800 number to order parts to extend the tracks of the HF SM.
The tracks themselves are not available. I went ahead and ordered all the other parts needed to do the job, including a complete log clamp as well. The bill was 214 dollars with shipping to my door. Not bad for a bunch of special parts.
The problem looming is the odd size of the steel angles that are the tracks. It's an unequal steel angle measuring 100 by 60 mm., 6 mm in thickness. I haven't been able to find such angle anywhere so far.
My plan is to call again HF and try to talk to a higher up there and implore for the original tracks. If this does not work then I'll figure out something and post it. 
Meanwhile the sawmill is working perfectly and cuts true and easy. The motor starts every time, first try.


----------



## lcooke

*wheels*



Mountain said:


> Sorry I do not have the HF mill alas I went American made a Hudson bandmill...
> 
> I had a lot of trouble with the wheels on mine as well, the track would get really sticky with sap and just pack those wheels full in literally a few passes, some wheels would be off by 1/8 inch in just a few passes. Here is what I did, and man I wish I had thought of it sooner, I was cleaning my tracks and wheels several times a day until I did this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have run my mill for many months now since I did this and have not had to clean my tracks or wheels one time since. Very simple, very easy and very cheap.... but also very effective.. These HF mills are bit different than mine, but you should easily be able to do something like this and save all that headache.
> 
> The brushes in front and in back of the wheels keeps the tracks clear of sawdust and the tack welded nail heads dislodge anything that might get into there and try packing in to the wheel groove.


Thanks mountain , that's a great idea ,cheap and simple.


----------



## danjp57

*HF sawmill tracks*



panther49 said:


> Extending the tracks of the HF Sawmill.
> As suggested by danjp57, I called the 800 number to order parts to extend the tracks of the HF SM.
> The tracks themselves are not available. I went ahead and ordered all the other parts needed to do the job, including a complete log clamp as well. The bill was 214 dollars with shipping to my door. Not bad for a bunch of special parts.
> The problem looming is the odd size of the steel angles that are the tracks. It's an unequal steel angle measuring 100 by 60 mm., 6 mm in thickness. I haven't been able to find such angle anywhere so far.
> My plan is to call again HF and try to talk to a higher up there and implore for the original tracks. If this does not work then I'll figure out something and post it.
> Meanwhile the sawmill is working perfectly and cuts true and easy. The motor starts every time, first try.


All should go together fine,,I bought these tracks and other parts and worked out well...If you have the $$$ good idea to buy the CRANK parts because it WILL strip out because its made of BRASS,, not a case of if it will go but (when) it will go,, and waiting for the parts to come from HF through CHINA will take MONTHS & MONTHS,, Just a heads up..


----------



## jimmy mc

*--*

I am so glad to find this thread. I ordered one of these mills and it was backordered. I called c.s. and was told it would be in stock 11-15-13. I called this afternoon and was told today was the day that it would be available but the lady could not find out if it was in or ready to ship. the only email i got was one comfornation of the order and a thank you for the order. I then went to their web site and checked track my order and found nothing. Then went to order status and found the order and under current status it said shipment and gave a number. 
Does any of you guys know if this means anything about if the mill is going to ship?

Sorry for the long post. 
Jimmy Mc


----------



## DannysCam

jimmy mc said:


> I am so glad to find this thread. I ordered one of these mills and it was backordered. I called c.s. and was told it would be in stock 11-15-13. I called this afternoon and was told today was the day that it would be available but the lady could not find out if it was in or ready to ship. the only email i got was one comfornation of the order and a thank you for the order. I then went to their web site and checked track my order and found nothing. Then went to order status and found the order and under current status it said shipment and gave a number.
> Does any of you guys know if this means anything about if the mill is going to ship?
> 
> Sorry for the long post.
> Jimmy Mc


they will email you a estimated deliver date and once its ships a tracking number for conway freight


----------



## DannysCam

danjp57 said:


> All should go together fine,,I bought these tracks and other parts and worked out well...If you have the $$$ good idea to buy the CRANK parts because it WILL strip out because its made of BRASS,, not a case of if it will go but (when) it will go,, and waiting for the parts to come from HF through CHINA will take MONTHS & MONTHS,, Just a heads up..


you know they might have fixed the crank they sent me a new lenox blade in my crate and i have cut about 10 trees with out it stripping out they fixed the blade problem maybe they fixed the crank problem as well


----------



## jimmy mc

I contacted Harbor Freight today and they told me I have 3 more weeks to wait. Dec.6th is the new date. Not such a bad thing. I have no idea what I am doing. That gives me some more time to read up on sawing. I cut 12 logs today to start with, a mix of poplar, ash, and maple. Small logs, 10 to 16 inch. I can handle them by my self.
Things to do. Pick where to put the mill, how to set up the yard, log handling, waste handling " sawdust, etc ". And as I said I have no idea what I am doing. The big one. Talk you guys into helping me learn to run a band mill

Jimmy


----------



## BobInMN

Jimmy,

It would be a good idea to paint the ends of the logs you cut with latex paint. It will help prevent cracking and end checking on your boards after you cut them. There is a product available that is designed for this purpose, but latex paint will work. It's easier to paint the log than each individual board and the sooner you paint it after cutting the tree down the less checking and cracking.

Bob


----------



## jimmy mc

BobInMN said:


> Jimmy,
> 
> It would be a good idea to paint the ends of the logs you cut with latex paint. It will help prevent cracking and end checking on your boards after you cut them. There is a product available that is designed for this purpose, but latex paint will work. It's easier to paint the log than each individual board and the sooner you paint it after cutting the tree down the less checking and cracking.
> 
> Bob


It is raining here today, so I will paint the ends of the logs tomorrow.


----------



## DannysCam

BobInMN said:


> Jimmy,
> 
> It would be a good idea to paint the ends of the logs you cut with latex paint. It will help prevent cracking and end checking on your boards after you cut them. There is a product available that is designed for this purpose, but latex paint will work. It's easier to paint the log than each individual board and the sooner you paint it after cutting the tree down the less checking and cracking.
> 
> Bob


i just all ways cut my logs like 6 inches to a foot longer.. my rig keeps getting off level seems like every 3 logs i have to re level it... i have it on cement cap blocks with crushed gravel under them


----------



## BobInMN

It is my understanding it is a good idea to do both, cut them at least 6" longer and paint them. What I've read that if you don't paint them the cracks will run much farther into the board. Maybe I should paint some and leave some unpainted and see what happens. :confused1:


----------



## panther49

DannysCam said:


> i just all ways cut my logs like 6 inches to a foot longer.. my rig keeps getting off level seems like every 3 logs i have to re level it... i have it on cement cap blocks with crushed gravel under them


I was worried about the rig moving, so I mounted and bolted the rails over 4 x 6's PT and then sank four 4 x 4 PT 40 inches into the ground, inboard of the 4 x 6's. Then put a 1/2" x 8" bolt through each of the 4 x 4's and the 4 x 6's. The thing is immovable. If I eventually need to move the sawmill, I'll just remove the 4 bolts and drag the thing out. You can probably see this in the pics I posted before.


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## panther49

By the way, forgot to mention that the concrete blocks in the pictures were used to level and support the sawmill initially. I suspect that now they are only helping with the support. I don't know if all of the above makes sense?


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## DannysCam

panther49 said:


> By the way, forgot to mention that the concrete blocks in the pictures were used to level and support the sawmill initially. I suspect that now they are only helping with the support. I don't know if all of the above makes sense?


man that sounds like a great idea. im thinking of making a trailer soon if i can get enough metal together


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## jimmy mc

Would one of you guys post the dimensions of the track, length and width? How high off the ground should the top of the track rail be for comfortable sawing? I would like to have my track bed ready when the mill comes in, and have not been able to find these dimensions. I hope I am not wearing my welcome out.

Panther49, I really like what you did with yours and will do something like that. It should never move. Even if it does it would be easy to fix.


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## DannysCam

jimmy mc said:


> Would one of you guys post the dimensions of the track, length and width? How high off the ground should the top of the track rail be for comfortable sawing? I would like to have my track bed ready when the mill comes in, and have not been able to find these dimensions. I hope I am not wearing my welcome out.
> 
> Panther49, I really like what you did with yours and will do something like that. It should never move. Even if it does it would be easy to fix.


each piece of track is 6" 5 inch you get 2 piece so they are 12" 10 inchs long and when you put the bunkers in it kept telling me to make sure theres 30 inches between the track so the track should be that:laughing:


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## BobInMN

DannysCam said:


> man that sounds like a great idea. im thinking of making a trailer soon if i can get enough metal together


 
Have you seen the free trailer plans Woodland Mills has on their web site?


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## panther49

jimmy mc said:


> Would one of you guys post the dimensions of the track, length and width? How high off the ground should the top of the track rail be for comfortable sawing? I would like to have my track bed ready when the mill comes in, and have not been able to find these dimensions. I hope I am not wearing my welcome out.
> 
> Panther49, I really like what you did with yours and will do something like that. It should never move. Even if it does it would be easy to fix.


The lenght and width have been answered.
As mounted now my sawmill top of the tracks are now 12.5 inches above the ground and everything is reachable and easy to handle.


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## jimmy mc

Thanks guys that will let me build the bed for the track and have it ready when it comes in.


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## lcooke

these cement slabs were on my property when i bought the place 15 years ago. they worked out good for my mill. I made some L brackets out of aluminum angle that i had and bolted the 4x4s to the slabs. i guess its about 10" high .works good for me.


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## jimmy mc

*It's on the way*

I spent the afternoon cleaning limbs out of the yard, and working on a rocket stove I am building. That kept me out of the house till well after dark. When I came in there was a message on the answering mach. from the bank, Harbor Freight charged my debit card for the mill. It will be on the way next week. I am so excited. There will be no sleep for me until it gets here.
I was going to have the bed for the rails ready but every time I get ready to do it I change my mind where to put it. My wife told me to just build a trailer and put it on it, then I can put it every place I picked out. A day or two in each place. If I could whip her I would.

Ordered 15 blades, on the way, been reading everything I can about running a band mill. Watched a lot of youtube videos about band mills. The more I read the more I realize I now nothing. But I am ready to start learning.


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## DannysCam

jimmy mc said:


> I spent the afternoon cleaning limbs out of the yard, and working on a rocket stove I am building. That kept me out of the house till well after dark. When I came in there was a message on the answering mach. from the bank, Harbor Freight charged my debit card for the mill. It will be on the way next week. I am so excited. There will be no sleep for me until it gets here.
> I was going to have the bed for the rails ready but every time I get ready to do it I change my mind where to put it. My wife told me to just build a trailer and put it on it, then I can put it every place I picked out. A day or two in each place. If I could whip her I would.
> 
> Ordered 15 blades, on the way, been reading everything I can about running a band mill. Watched a lot of youtube videos about band mills. The more I read the more I realize I now nothing. But I am ready to start learning.


 glad for you i remember those sleepless night thinking about milling... hey when you build your trailer post a lot of pics i can't wait to see how you do it, did you get the cooks blades?


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## jimmy mc

DannysCam said:


> glad for you i remember those sleepless night thinking about milling... hey when you build your trailer post a lot of pics i can't wait to see how you do it, did you get the cooks blades?


I ordered Kasco blades. I found a guy that will sharpen my blades, and he and several of his customers use them. All of them are now using them exclusively. They are a good savings also.


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## jimmy mc

Harbor Freight sent me the tracking number, and Con-Way freights' web page. They have the mill and it is on the way. They have a Thursday delivery posted. My inability to pick a place to put it is going to slow down progress setting it up. I ordered the steel for the trailer today. I am going to make one very much like the one on Woodlands web page for free download. It will be easy to build and easy to upgrade. I have an ATV winch that may work to add a cable loading system to load logs. But that is down the road. First I need to learn how to saw lumber.

Where did everyone go?


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## mike from ft collins

Don't stand in front of the blade. Don't try to saw metal. That's all the training you need. Everything else is art. Read through the advise after sawing a few logs. It will make more sense once you find that your lumber isn't quite what you hoped for. Getting consistent thickness takes some practice. Find some trees to practice on. Most of my firewood is slab wood this year. A lot of it is 2 x 6 +- more than I would like. It burns better than if it went through the splitter. I also have 2 nice sheds, a large deck and a killer gazebo, sides for two trailers and a number of smaller projects. The secret is to find enough logs so you don't have to get it right on the first try.


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## jimmy mc

mike from ft collins said:


> Don't stand in front of the blade. Don't try to saw metal. That's all the training you need. Everything else is art. Read through the advise after sawing a few logs. It will make more sense once you find that your lumber isn't quite what you hoped for. Getting consistent thickness takes some practice. Find some trees to practice on. Most of my firewood is slab wood this year. A lot of it is 2 x 6 +- more than I would like. It burns better than if it went through the splitter. I also have 2 nice sheds, a large deck and a killer gazebo, sides for two trailers and a number of smaller projects. The secret is to find enough logs so you don't have to get it right on the first try.


I have 20 small logs cut to practice on. If I don't get any lumber out of them it will not be a problem. I hope I can but if not ok. I cut them from the tops of some of the trees I had logged. There is a lot of tops back there and I have plenty of time. I do hope to have some lumber that can be used buy May. That is when my wife and I are going to start on the barn, and new workshop.


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## volleypc

*Mill arriving tomorrow*

I ordered the mill last week for about $1600 with coupons. I wasn't expecting it this soon, but evidently it is arriving tomorrow. I have several projects going on now, so it is going to be 30 days or so before I can set it up and try it out. I have been reading through this forum and wanted to say thanks for all the great info. I will post pics, etc once I start setting the thing up.


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## jimmy mc

volleypc, congratulations on the new sawmill. That is fast. You got lucky and got one from the newest shipments. Mine got held up and is going to be a day late. Weather out west. Should get mine tomorrow also.

Are you going to mount yours on a trailer, or on the ground?


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## jimmy mc

The wait is killing me. Con-Way called on the 4th and said they would deliver my mill today the 5th about noon. Didn't make it. I called them and was told it will be tomorrow sometime. They will call me in the morning and let me know. I went to their web site and tracked the shipment and it was to be in St Louis Mo. yesterday afternoon, it is now 2:00 am. and still has not made it to Mo. I hate delays on things I really, really wanted last week. Just venting.


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## volleypc

*just arrived*



jimmy mc said:


> volleypc, congratulations on the new sawmill. That is fast. You got lucky and got one from the newest shipments. Mine got held up and is going to be a day late. Weather out west. Should get mine tomorrow also.
> 
> Are you going to mount yours on a trailer, or on the ground?


I am going to mount on the ground. We have 40 acres here and will have the oppurtunity to cut down trees in the area. I just think it will be easier to haul the logs. 

It just arrived by the way. I thought it may be held up with the weather but they brought it on out anyway.


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## jimmy mc

volleypc said:


> I am going to mount on the ground. We have 40 acres here and will have the oppurtunity to cut down trees in the area. I just think it will be easier to haul the logs.
> 
> It just arrived by the way. I thought it may be held up with the weather but they brought it on out anyway.


Mine is still in St Louis, Con-Way called and said it would be Monday at the earliest. What part of the country do you live in?

I was going to put mine on the ground, I could not make up my mind where to put it. And several of my friends said they wanted me to saw some for them. So the trailer.


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## volleypc

jimmy mc said:


> Mine is still in St Louis, Con-Way called and said it would be Monday at the earliest. What part of the country do you live in?
> 
> I was going to put mine on the ground, I could not make up my mind where to put it. And several of my friends said they wanted me to saw some for them. So the trailer.


Northeast Mississippi. We are on the edge of the rain/ice. Have you bought blades yet? I ordered mine from Cook's yesterday. Should be here midweek.


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## jimmy mc

My blades came in today. I got them for Kasco out of Mo. A guy in Ohio is going to sharpen them for me. If it looks like I have to send them off a lot. I think I will get the stuff to sharpen them.


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## jimmy mc

Con-Way called and said my mill made it to St.Louis today, the 9th. I am going to pick it up at the local depot tomorrow. One more sleepless night. The plan is to have it ready to saw by the weekend. I just hope they don't lose it again.


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## DannysCam

jimmy mc said:


> Con-Way called and said my mill made it to St.Louis today, the 9th. I am going to pick it up at the local depot tomorrow. One more sleepless night. The plan is to have it ready to saw by the weekend. I just hope they don't lose it again.


one thing i would tell you is to keep it level if your off by 1/8 of a inch on one side by the time it makes it 12 feet down you will be off by a half inch easy i keep a level out side just for checking it and i keep wood shims near it as well


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## MaxSeabeck

*Thanks to all for helpful info on Harbor Freight Sawmills*

I've been following the Harbor Freight posts here for quite awhile and learned a great deal from everyone's input. Thanks Much.
I just purchased one, using the advice provided...wait for it to go on sale for about $1900, then apply the 25% coupon that shows up in November, then have it shipped to a state without sales tax  Bottom line cost for me, including shipping=$1531.93. The price was worth the wait 
I have a chainsaw saw mill that I built using my on variation of plans from an outfit called PROCUT PORTABLE SAWMILLhttp://www.procutportablesawmills.com/themill.html . The mill is powered by a Stihl 088 that is mounted on a carriage framework, similar to the HF bandsaw carriage. It works good, but chews up alot of wood if you are trying to make 1x boards. The chain is relatively easy to sharpen, compared to a bandsaw blade, so I plan on using chainsaw to make large beams/cants, where you are cutting through bark, with it's may years of collection of wind borne dirt. When cutting through bark, I'm only able to make about 3-4 cuts in a 20 foot log before needing to sharpen the chain. Once I have fresh cants, with no bark, the chain lasts for about 20 cuts, depending on the log. I plan on modifying the HF carriage to fit on my existing rails. I have 29' of rail, so I should be able to put the band saw on one end and the chainsaw on the other and use whichever one I want/need. Once I get the details worked out, I'll probably see if I can sell the rail system that came with the HF mill. The log in the pic is 22' long and was about 26" at the butt. I had to shave the butt down to 24" so my carriage would clear.


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## jimmy mc

That is a good looking sawmill. Keep me in mind when you get ready to sale the rails from your harbor freight mill. I may want them.


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## panther49

I did the same as MaxSeabeck with the coupon. By the way, you'll find HF 20 and 25% coupons all the time in nearly all the gun and motorcycle magazines. I'm subcribed to a few and always have discount coupons.
I'm waiting on my special order extension rails from HF. I'll know later for sure but the whole deal is over $300. (No coupons accepted in special orders) the stuff is coming from China.


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## MaxSeabeck

FYI, the ProCuts Sawmill website providew great info on keeping logs and lumber from checking and warping. The guy is obviously promoting his mill design plans, but has lots of great info on hobby and small scale production saw milling techniques to make life easier.


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## jimmy mc

*Pictures of my mill*

I loaded some pictures of my mill in my gallery. Will try and find out how to post them. You can see them in my gallery for mow.


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## newsawdust

*harbor freight mill*

New to the fourm and a new owner of the Harbor freight mill. Picked it up Tuesday from con-way. My Grandsons had it together in no time. Every thing fit together with no problem. Fist thing I checked was the lifting screw and brass nut,I think they up graded the nut cause Its round and screws into the end tube. Threads look good and nut fits threads snug with no backlash. By the way this is the modle 61712. Looks the same as the 67138. Has any body else on here have this modle?

Great fourm Also


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## w1pers

Jealous of all with mills. Wish I could afford one..but don't really have any logs to mill anyway and then I would need a kiln. It just goes on and on. Found this on youtube for anyone interested. http://youtu.be/mo6gSG3p0Vg Looks pretty slick.


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## jimmy mc

newsawdust said:


> New to the fourm and a new owner of the Harbor freight mill. Picked it up Tuesday from con-way. My Grandsons had it together in no time. Every thing fit together with no problem. Fist thing I checked was the lifting screw and brass nut,I think they up graded the nut cause Its round and screws into the end tube. Threads look good and nut fits threads snug with no backlash. By the way this is the modle 61712. Looks the same as the 67138. Has any body else on here have this modle?
> 
> Great fourm Also


Welcome,
That is the one I got. I think there is no difference between them. I love my mill. A couple of things you might want to do. Take the lift completely apart and put some good grease on the lead screw, and brass nut. They have been a problem. I was told to do mine, and when I took it apart there was almost no grease in there and what was looked like real bad grease. Run the engine for a short time then change the oil to get the junk left in it out. The engines are very good by the way. Not 7hp, more like 9+.
What kind of blades are you going to use, What kind of logs are you going to saw. I only have about 8 hours on mine so it is new also. Buy the way I have been sawing about 8 hours also.:laughing:


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## jimmy mc

w1pers said:


> Jealous of all with mills. Wish I could afford one..but don't really have any logs to mill anyway and then I would need a kiln. It just goes on and on. Found this on youtube for anyone interested. http://youtu.be/mo6gSG3p0Vg Looks pretty slick.


 I was going to build my mill, just got a little to lazy. A friend of mine came over today to take pictures and measurements of mine to start his build. He is going to make a lot of changes but use the general size.


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## reynoldston

TexasTimbers said:


> It's just my opinion, not an official enforceable State Policy. :laughing: Honestly it is just my opinion and I don't look down on someone just because they don't see things my way, I just have no sympathy when someone buys cheap Chinese junk and has problems with parts and service and quality. I just have my way of looking at it and you have yours. I'll still pass you some ammo if it ever comes down to it. :gunsmilie:
> 
> And welcome to the site, for real. :thumbsup:


 Never seen a HF saw mill, But I have a repair shop and have worked on Chinese ATV's I have to tell you I never seen such junk you cant buy parts for. Your hobby will turn into repairing the saw mill not cutting wood.


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## newsawdust

I'll be cutting some pine/whiteoak/elm. I'm gona run Lenox blades.


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## newsawdust

You have no idea what you are talking about.This is a well built saw,so intill you see one don't judge it. Lot of other owners are "Happy Happy Happy"!!!!!!!!!!!


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## panther49

reynoldston said:


> Never seen a HF saw mill, But I have a repair shop and have worked on Chinese ATV's I have to tell you I never seen such junk you cant buy parts for. Your hobby will turn into repairing the saw mill not cutting wood.


You are right! In part. Logic dictates that something cheaply made cannot be as good. Something got to give. Imagine paying 1600 dollars for the materials, manufacture and transportation of this thing from China!
How can they do that?? Very low salaries and kick backs from the Chinese Government to the American Companies payable in China, that's how! (watch Death By China, in Netflix).
For me, my biggest regret is the contribution I am making to screw our Nation, by helping this potential enemy. It weights heavily on me
but any other sawmill will cost you double (at least) and they are NOT twice better!!. If the HF mill did not exist I just could not afford any other, period. I just hope that the Chinese are not harsh Masters.


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## jimmy mc

reynoldston said:


> Never seen a HF saw mill, But I have a repair shop and have worked on Chinese ATV's I have to tell you I never seen such junk you can't buy parts for. Your hobby will turn into repairing the saw mill not cutting wood.


I too have worked on a lot of Chinese ATVs. For the most part they are junk. But if you do your research, you will find there are some of them that are fine machines. They do cost a little more though. 
China now has some of the best manufacturing plants in the world with new top of the line machines. These plants pay their employees a livable wage. the main difference is their top management is paid a lot less than here. The factory I retired from paid their CEO $7500 an hour figured on a 40 hour work week. Yes those numbers are right. 
The USA is still the most efficient work force in the world, but the spread between workers pay is the greatest. That and our legal system, is our biggest problems competing with the other countries. Not the end comsumers.


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## ryan50hrl

It never ceases to amaze me the ridiculous uneducated views of the Chinese. You all know that trade with china and the USA has been going on since the 1700's right? Those who think Chinese manufacturing only makes junk should look at an apple iphone.....or nike shoes...or dell computers. All made in china. The problem isn't that china only builds junk, it's that Americans often just choose to buy the cheaper option.

An interesting...couple year old read on why the idea that the Chinese aren't "stealing our jobs"

http://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesl...buying-from-china-is-in-fact-buying-american/


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## panther49

All I know is that we are making a bunch of Communists very very rich. A very dangerous thing. Believe me.


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## MaxSeabeck

Sorry to say that the discussion and info in this thread was excellent until people with no experience with the product started expressing opinions and appear to belittle others for their choices. If I was interested in debating the ethic of a non-USA made item, I'd have chosen a totally different forum. This thread is about researching fact and gathering first hand info from sawmill enthusiasts. The vast majority of the responses, info, discussions were excellent and enlightening. I am now fully aware of the known pitfalls of this piece of equipment and much more, due to the shared KNOWLEDGE on sawmilling, from enthusiasts. To those individuals, thanks once again


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## toddheath2005

I second that statement!! I have been receiving emails about post on this thread for years and now I am going to cancel my subscription to it due to the negativity of people who have no experience with the mill and probably never seen one or ever see one. I have owned my mill for over 4yrs now and to be totally honest I havnt had one single problem that wasnt caused by my own neglect like sun damage to the fuel line and leaving gas in it for long periods uncovered to the elements. I posted on here a while back praising the mill and I still stand by my decision to buy it. Even though I purchased mine when this model came out for a heck of alot higher price than they have been for last couple years. Now I am not really for buying china products because mainly they are just a cheap copy but this mill is one of the exceptions! Were not talking about some $10 drill or grinder this is a serious peice of equipment not a serious POS. Now I am not one to chime in on others discussions or really give my input on to many things but I have recieved these posts thinking they would be about a sawmill brother or sister ether purchasing a mill asking a question or sharing a story about a sawmilling adventure not some trash talk about where its made. Everybody has the right to an opinion and in this great country we do have freedom of speach and I will fight to the death to defend my rights any day I am needed, but your right to your opinion stops at my right to not have to listen anyhow one more thing I wanna point out is I am not some china loving who cares about american made products I work for the largest commercial aircraft manufacturer and everyday my brothers and sisters are being let go due to their jobs being sent somewhere else. Not always over seas but some are and that hurts me but there is nothing I can do about inflation nafta and all the other political junk that goes with it. Like china devaluation of their currency thats a whole other thread on a different forum this is about the harbor freight bandmill not politics or close minded ignorance! Any how I felt I had listened to enough and felt I had to say something. On a side note myneighbor had the same opinion as some on here so he bought a woodlands mill and paid twice as mine and I have the extensions and guess what same dam mill!!!!! The only difference is they have option of putting handle in rear caster mounts and you can upgrade to aluminum coolant tank. As far as the tank goes I dont even use mine just makes more water to dry or stains it. I use pam cooking spray after a few passes no stains and I have great blade life. And if your wondering I live in kansas so no I havnt cut one pine tree 90% percent of what I cut is black walnut, black locus, Hackberry, and hedge(osage orange) now thats about as hard of wood you will find anywhere!! Hedge is classified as a super hard wood its about like cutting steel and will actually throw sparks when its dry and u throw it through a planner. I have learned in the many many many thousands of linear not board feet I have cut if you take your time and take care of your equipment it will take care of you! When I first bought the mill I ran an add on Craigslist that if anyone had experience with portable bandmill I would let them use it to cut a few logs in trade for teching me. I was hoping to learn a trick or two. Well a middle aged man showed up with a coiple ceder logs proclaimed he knew what he was talking about( kinda like some of the posts I have read lately.lol) so we commenced to cutting. Well after 10 min had passed and he had snapped 2 brand new blades and bent one of hight locks I had to aske him to leave in a not so polite manner. Oh and he told me he ran a skid steer for a living so I let him use mine to load the mill and he knocked the mill outta level and the last straw after the 2 blades was he hit the saw head and knocked it completely off the tracks. The only reason I told that story was everyone thinks their an expert a some things and some people think their experts at everything then you have some who just like to stir the pot! I have always been one to do my own thing but always try and learn a thing or two from others if you can weed out the ones who think they know everything or just stirring the pot. I have rambled on enough my advice is buy what you feel comfortable buying. If you have an extra 10 grand burning a hole in your pocket hey the timberking factory isnt very far from me I will meet ya up there and we can bring it by my place and put them sided by side and throw some hedge on them and we both will learn a thing or two..lol btw I have miles of hedge row. Its a dam same all the other farmers are cutting down probably one of the most beautiful and valuable woods around that is if you can get it still green and work It to size before it dries and not let it warp well thats my buck fifty worth of advice I feel on the subject of the harbor freight bandmill my advice is worth more than the half a cent most of the ignorant ones that bashing it. I have owned mine for longer than most. BTW they must have changed something on the jackscew nut after my style cause I haven't had any trouble and I cant say I have babied my mill I posted pictures awhile back showing a massive pin oak that I milled so big my skid steer wouldnt pick it up and ihad to remove the push/throttle lever so I could raise it up high enough to clear and I still had to use a pry bar to pry it past the widest part of the log and keep turning it to whittle it down and use wedge blocks to hold it because the log dogs wouldn't open up wide enough.lol but let me tell you it made a beautiful fire place mantle thats installed in a house that just shy of 750 grand all with a 2 grand china junk mill as some would say. Thank you for all the good posts and advice I have learned alot! If anyone would like to talk about the mill or have questions email me and I would be glad to share with you Have fun makin sawdust its suppose to be a nice day and I have a dozen or so walnut logs sittin here for couple months they tree was struck by lighting so I can see black streaks running through the grain it should be some , beautiful lookin stuff I cant waight to slab it to see what's inside Todd..


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## toddheath2005

Sorry about any spelling or grammar mistakes I was a bit distraught and I dropped my tablet and cracked the screen so it kinda has a mind of its own when I type..lol thanks again to all the good ones and to the bad ones well you know what you can do use your imagination!!from the posts you wrote it sounds like you have a big imagination.lol Todd....


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## toddheath2005

One more point is next time you hop on that airplane to go whenever and you think your flying on that American made plane and I dont have to say wich one well all kmow the one! Along with my 30000 brothers and sisters might have assembled the larger peices right here in the good ol usa but there is a reason there is less than 1/4 of the Americans building that plane is cause the other 3/4 of it is made outta the country! Well just like that plane you fly on so proud its american made or the truck you drive just the major components are assembled here that doesnt make it made in the usa just like the airplane I assembled my sawmill right here in the heartland of america just the components were made over seas! So to all who think its just china junk I want that to be in your mind when your cruising 500mph at 6 miles off the ground that hey some of this plane was built probably in the same building as that sawmill and probably your tv! I am sorry to get so outta whack on this I didnt intend to. I love sawmilling and most all involved and get passionate when closed minded fools think just cause a tag says made in usa that they saving all of us from total destruction when infact they arent educated enough to know that just because that tag says made in usa sometimes just means its assembled here. I could paint my mill and put a different logo on it and be perfectly legal saying made in usa because I assembled it in my barn in kansas. Kinda like woodlands saying made Canada I cant get them to admit it but after studying my neighbors I would bet they come from same factory as ours just with a couple different options and assymbled in some shop in canada. If you buy parts from them they arnt necessarily oem parts they are getting them from someone else. Like the guide berings are the same as whats on a skateboard. I bought a set of 8 at the skateboard shop in the mall for 20bucks and they are high performance not had a single issue of grooving yet. Alot more than one might think traces back to china, japan, tinbukto or where ever so if you think buying this mill will be the total dutruction of us then you have way to much time on your hands. What ever the future holds is any body's guess but I too can see that china is taking over but the wheels were set in motion a long time ago and unless there are changes made by people way higher on the food chain than us there isnt anything we can go as an individual. So I say buy what you want and live how you want. One day we will all be marching to the beat of a different drum but for now I do what I can with the resources I have. I just dont belittle people for choices like some when in fact they aren't educated enough to know they are doing the same thing. Again I am extremely sorry for the negative posts. Its just this should be positive sawmilling not negative bashing... Todd..


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## panther49

I would like to apologize to anybody here that I bothered with my comments (see my posts above). It's a great forum and thread. I love my mill and I hope to continue to gain knowledge from the experience of others. From now on let's talk about the HF sawmill and how to improve, modify or make it better.
Thanks.


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## jimmy mc

*Back to sawing*

I got the pleasure of letting a young man play with my saw a couple of times and now he is going to order one of his own. He was going to build one, but after pricing all the metal and other things he wasn't going to save enough money to make it work while.
Toddheath2005, don't leave us, your knowledge is very much needed here. Just like the bearings you got from a shateboard shop. Now I know where to get them. I'm going to give that Pam a try tomorrow also. It's those little things that only people like you know, that help us new owners so much.
This is the only extensive thread I could find on the net about the HF mill. I have read it through more than once. Because of it, my saw has worked right from the start and has not had one problem. I hope I have not done anything to turn anyone from this thread. If so I am trully sorry.
Lets saw.


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## toddheath2005

I am truly sorry guys for my harsh words earlier I feel I was outta line in my post. We all know that we seem to fighting a loosing battle with outsourcing of jobs and work overseas and that a lot of products that come from over the big pond are substandard in quality. I have just seen the direction this forum was going and yes it seems to be the only one that has to do with our sawmill on the entire web. Like most threads/forums on the net it seems a few negative posts and everyone abandons it but I was hoping different with this one so I guess thats why I finally spoke up. I actually watched the " death by china" documentary after reading about it on here and man let me tell you it scared the hell outta me!! Anyhow I was just trying to stop it going down a bad path. I believe that most all here are great people and some awesome ideas and tips lets just not let it get to the point where we end up dumping it. I would like to see more people sharing not only hf owners but the other brands as well. I will stop rambling we suppose to be going to dinner.lol I did want to say that I wasnt offended by anyone personally and believe the ones that I was refering to probably just have something negative to say about any subject they just happen to come across this thread and decided to stir the pot..lol keep up the good posts and sharing knowledge after all just like the young man that was going to build one I too was going to build one until I came across this thread and decided I could buy a better machine cheaper than I could build it and I went into it with the idea I would probably have to re weld most everything or change things but pleasantly suprised that I havnt had to change anything. I am working on a power lift and feed that hope will get done someday.lol way to many projects. When I get it done I will let you know and it will be able to be built frome home Depot with out any welding so that is one reason it taking awhile but I want everyone to be able to do the mod without any machining or welding.. thanks again fellow sawyers and future sawyers and I am the one that is sorry if I offended anyone that was truly not my intent. Todd....


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## DannysCam

panther49 said:


> All I know is that we are making a bunch of Communists very very rich. A very dangerous thing. Believe me.


we do that every time we pay our taxes :furious:


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## lcooke

*getting back on track literally*

I'm making some track extensions for my mill , I hope I can finish today but here are a couple of previews. I also built a water tower, and a kiln . got the kiln plans from Darren Nelson ( moderator) on this site.Kiln works great.


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## toddheath2005

That looks great!! I dig the benches simple, sturdy, functional, and the best part is from tree to finished bench all by you keep up the good work and keep us posted. Are them homebuilt extensions? I got mine from hf and the angles are different sizes and the thickness is also diffrrent. With shims and a grinder I made them work.lol I didnt weld them because I still havnt decided on the final resting place for the mill after all these years I have moved it more than I wanted to. Good work and thanks for posting and keeping us up to speed on your project. Winter is not nice to me anymore it was 12 for the high thursday and it 60 today and back to 18 tomorrow. With 40-60 degree swing in temps couple times a week all winter its bound to get everyone sick and down.lol anyhow again awesome job and great post keep it up. Thinking I gonna work on my geodome greenhouse I have been building for year now.lol with this weather it will be nice to have climate controlled growing plus it will be an aquaponics set up. Well I got way off topic.lol sorry. Todd......


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## lcooke

*track extentions*

Thanks Todd, yes they are home made tracks, I bought 2 20' sticks of 2x3 x1/4 " angle and cut and welded them .I dont plan on moving my mill. I didnt get them mounted to my foundation today. Had to put a radiator in my truck this weekend,but they are ready I just have to make 2 more log clamps .I will post pics when it is complete. The steel cost me 100$, probably about 6 or 7 hrs of fab and assembly. I added 10' to my mill I can now cut 19.5 ' lumber if I can get help moving a log that long.will get pics of my kiln later it is 5'wide 4' tall and 10.5' long, I filled it with pine 1xs and a few 2" thick slabs for benches, took them from 37% to 12% moisture content in 15 days. I now have it full of red and white oak 1xs I plan on making flooring for my living room .


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## newb

*HF saw mill*

First off Ive always tried to buy 100% American,Like my new air compressor that after I had it all hooked up and running [ very well by the way , I noticed the small print under the proudly made in the USA sticker , using imported and domestic parts, oh well it works fine Im over it all . I always wanted a saw mill I got this HF mill for a little over 1500.00 shipped right to my door. Its been too cold and icy in MT. to use it yet but I had to open it , put the tracks together, and shove them under my pickup in the garage. It looks very well built to me. I cant hardly wait to start cutting up some lumber. Ive got a beetle killed pine Im going to start on ,and a stack of old poles Im going to try cutting. I had some big ash I was saving , but I cut it up for fire wood because I decided I would never get a saw mill .Well thanks to HF now Ive got one. I know some of those mills will cut a log 36 inch dia. 16 ft. long but if you think about it who has the equipment setting around to handle that log. Any way the poles I have are cedar not fir and they were sheared at the ground so no creosote to speak of ,I don't think theres any nails left in them. Anybody know how these are going to cut , and what kind of blades to use.


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## jimmy mc

Welcome newb,
You are going to love your mill. I bought my blades from Kasco in St. Louis Mo. Google them. I never could get the blade sent with my mill to cut right. Changed to the Woodmaxx blade and cuts like a $30,000 machine. Take your head lift crank assy. apart and grease it with some good grease. The grease they put on the brass nut and rod is of low grade and not much of it. Load it up and you shouldn't have any problems with it.
When you put your mill together make sure everything is level, square, and tight. That with a good blade, your mill will cut some nice lumber for you. For your first log or two, don't use your best logs. use anything that you can find that will cut easy. You will need a lot of stickers so it would be a good time to cut a lot of them. You get to do a lot of sawing and you will learn a lot about your mill at the same time.

Keep us informed


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## tradar

*hello to you ALL*

Hey guys,, I have been reading and lurking since October,, I paid for my mill two days ago,,, It is in CAL and getting ready to ship, I talked to them yesterday... I had nothing to say,, except, I ride a Harley, Fix and rebuild the motor my self, drive a Buick. fix all kinds of Japan and USA made robots and AUTOMATION equipment, EVERYDAY, I put a camera on a robot and taught it to see where the part is when it comes down the line.. WE SHIP CAR PARTS TO CHINA, MEXICO,, AND GERMANY... BECAUSE THEY HAVE CAN'T NOT BUILD AND SHIP THE QUAILTY that the company I work for can....:boxing:
AND I just bought a CHINESE MADE SAW,, LOL YEP,, the USA was not made strong by not trading with the rest of the world, Or by UNIONS,, but by building the best mouse trap...
and I started out running a machine at 18yrs old.. then as I was working 50hrs a week and raising a family.. I went BACK to school...


SO I cant wait to start messing up logs and breaking blades,, WATCH OUT THE DUMB WHITE GUY GOT A SAW.... lol...


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## jimmy mc

Welcome tradar, You are going to love your saw. Get it set up square, and grease it up good. Order some good blades and it will cut with the best of them. Where are you from? What are you going to do with the lumber? Let up know a little bit about yourself.


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## tradar

Hey Jimmy,
I live out side Muskegon Michigan, I live on 5 acres, in a little ****ty yellow house, with my wife of 23yrs and twin 6yr olds. I have a 22yr old daughter that just got her BA in BIO, she is going to be a Vet, 
Where I live I have a lease on the five Acres next to me for farming and wood. 
Most of my wood is HARD wood, very little pine. mostly oak, some white most red, with beach, ash and a few pine,,
I want to make 2x2 2x4 1x10 10x10 for buildings, 
I have 10 chickens now but raise 100-125 chickens for meat, and sell eggs.. My sons dog killed 42 chicks in one day.. Not truly his fault, I know I have to contain my dog. and he broke the chain,, He is a MALAMUTE and they are killing machines,, they kill rabbits and other small game if allowed, She is a good dog and my family's best friend, 
I don't blame others for stuff that is mine to take care of,, that is the new generation not mine, 
I will buy more chickens in spring and build a better dog kennel with live wire in it, and a new chicken coop,, LOL 
I have to buy some blades for my saw.. The email sent me a tracking today, should be here in a week,, I have 4 ft of snow On the ground now,, I guess it will still be a while before I can use it. I will set it up in my garage and weld the 6x6 I beams together,get the frame square and mount the three point hitch for my ford N to move it with,,


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## jimmy mc

Your mill will be perfect for what you have in mind. A new chicken coop would be a nice first project to saw out. 42 chickens lost at one time is a lot. I lost my flock last summer to raccoons and a Bob cat. But I only had about 15 bantams. 
As soon as you can get to the woods, drag out a couple not so nice logs and learn on them by cutting some stickers. You are going to need them and they are fun to cut. They require a lot of passes. The money you will save building your coop and a shed will pay for your mill. And these things are a ball to play with. My wife bought a mini donkey yesterday and we don't have a horse trailer. Yesterday I sawed up some poplar and made a small flatbed trailer into a box trailer to go get our new Jack. Wood 0 dollars, Wifes smile Priceless.


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## tradar

I need to figure out what I am going to do with it while I have three feet of hard snow on the ground and four ft in places,, It is going to have to sit and drive me nuts,,
Has any one seen any FREE shed plans?


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## tradar

*FREE PLANS,, For anything,*

http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/extpubs/PlanList97.htm#General Barn and Utility Shed Plans

Check it out if ya want...


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## newb

Ive had mine sitting in the crate for a month now ,I just open the crate and look at it once in a while. IT was 18 below this morning ,ice and snow everywhere,Ive already cut a bunch of wood in my mind . I know how you feel.


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## volleypc

*About ready to setup the mill*

Well I ordered my mill back in November thinking it would be here around March... a week later it shows up. I have so many projects to do I knew it would be a few months before I could get to it. The good news is that it looks like in about two weeks I am going to be ready to set it up. Just from reading the forum and looking at the photos I think I am going to go with the 4 x 6 rails with 4 x 4 driven into the ground and placed in concrete. I will probably use some of the CMU cap blocks under the rails as well. Just wanted to see if anyone has had problems with this? Any other ideas that have worked well for anyone? I can not wait to get this thing up and running. Have a great day.


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## tradar

I am down to three feet of snow out back,,, :thumbsup: another week of 45* and I should have ground,,.
I have Two 6 in by 20 ft long I-beams in the back yard under the snow I am going to weld a frame between them and weld on to that, thought about wheels and three point hitch pins but not sure I will care to move..


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## jimmy mc

This has been a long winter for just about everyone. My mill is at my neighbors right now we a cutting some ceder for his new room they are building on his house. This next week I am going to take it to the back side of my farm and cut some pine and poplar for my barn and out buildings I am working on. Having your own sawmill is great. I needed a new set of shafts for my horse cart and just went to the woods and got a small ash and sawed them out. $50 saved. It doesn't take long for one of these mills to pay for its self. 50 for shafts, 300 for the out house, 100 for a quick set of stock racks. 350 for a chicken coop. Mine will have paid for its self even before I start what I bought it for.


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## volleypc

*Finally some time to focus on the mill*

With the greenhouse up and seeds started I finally had some time to set aside to work on the mill. I copied someone else setup on here with the tracks on 4 x 6 mounted to 4 x 4 post set in concrete. All in all the setup went well. We had a storm passing through last night but I wanted to try to cut a few boards before the rain came and for the most part I was pleased with my first cuts. I have a little wavy action going on so I am going to adjust my guides today. I also have a small lip on the left side where the tracks meet so I need to file that off today as well. I may have been feeding a bit too fast we well. With better weather and more time I think I will get the kinks out today. 

I am going to need to get a 3 pt hitch mounted fork soon. For now I am just chaining the log to the back of the box blade. It doesn't have quite enough lift on it but I used a few boards to build a ramp and it is working fine for now.


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## cosine68

*cosine68*



volleypc said:


> With the greenhouse up and seeds started I finally had some time to set aside to work on the mill. I copied someone else setup on here with the tracks on 4 x 6 mounted to 4 x 4 post set in concrete. All in all the setup went well. We had a storm passing through last night but I wanted to try to cut a few boards before the rain came and for the most part I was pleased with my first cuts. I have a little wavy action going on so I am going to adjust my guides today. I also have a small lip on the left side where the tracks meet so I need to file that off today as well. I may have been feeding a bit too fast we well. With better weather and more time I think I will get the kinks out today.
> 
> I am going to need to get a 3 pt hitch mounted fork soon. For now I am just chaining the log to the back of the box blade. It doesn't have quite enough lift on it but I used a few boards to build a ramp and it is working fine for now.


 If your guides are perfectly level and you still experience waving cuts, experiment with blade tension. Too tight or too loose will allow blade to climb or drop and correct. When I found correct tension by experimenting, I welded a socket upside down to center of T-handle tension adjuster and now use a torque wrench to achieve proper blade tension. When cutting, sometimes wet sawdust will accumulate and compress in your track rollers too, can make slight rise/fall when pushing unit down tracks. 
Made home-made removable flat forks for tractor bucket to load those big logs. 
You probably will want to make more log locks than come with unit too.


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## newb

*saw mill*

Hey guys IM ready to set my mill up , but I want to be able to cut at least 12 foot . I cant get any more track from HF ,and I cant get that size angle here . So what did you guys do hack 3/4 off 3x4 or cobble on some 2x3?


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## ryan50hrl

What size angle do you need....and where are you?


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## newb

*HF sawmill*

The angle to match the mill is 2 and 1/4 by 4,Im in northern MT. I don't really want to replace the whole track, just add on.


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## jimmy mc

You should be able to order 2 and 1/4 from any local metal supplier. I found some 2 and 3/4 for free so I am going to lower my trailer rails that I will have to add on by 1/4 inch and all will be well.


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## Carrie31

*Saw Mill Replacement Blades*

Hi! I'm hoping someone can help me, I'm a little lost! I recently bought my husband the 280cc Gas Engine Sawmill from Harbor Freight. After doing the research, I see that no one seems very impressed with the blades that come with it. I keep reading about Woodmizer blades being used as a replacement- but, how do I know what size to get? I can't come right out and ask him, because they are also a surprise. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance!


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## jimmy mc

Carrie31 said:


> Hi! I'm hoping someone can help me, I'm a little lost! I recently bought my husband the 280cc Gas Engine Sawmill from Harbor Freight. After doing the research, I see that no one seems very impressed with the blades that come with it. I keep reading about Woodmizer blades being used as a replacement- but, how do I know what size to get? I can't come right out and ask him, because they are also a surprise. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance!


He is going to be in shock for a couple of days. I am using Woodmax blades from Kasco in St Louis Mo. They are 144 inches long by .050 thick. If he is going to cut hard wood I would order him the 4 deg hook angle. They work best with the lower horsepower engines. I am using them on everything I saw and they are working great. They are also about the least expensive blades you can get. Here is a link,
http://www.kascosharptech.com/

by the way they don't show the 4 deg hook angle blades on their site. Just call them and they will fix you up.


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## Chad Holst

This is a great thread. I do not own a Mill, or even know anything about the process yet i had to keep reading. (now i want a mill...lol)

I just thought i would thank everyone that contributes to this thread as im sure im not alone in the ignorance of wood milling. Thank You.


I cant resist, so i'll give my 2 cents and then leave it alone: 
I'n my opinion, the greatest travisty of human kind was when we conviced ourselves that one life was more valuable than another. It has been the excuse for slavery, elitism, bigotry, sexism and the general leader in almost every war man kind has been in. 

I love my country, but that doesnt mean i have to value an american life more than another countries peoples lives. I served in the military, yet i never thought my brothers lives in the service are worth more than any of the enemies lives. They have a right to live, love and be prosperous just like we do. If a china made product is cheaper than an american made product, and does the same job, then i will buy it. 

This whole "american made" idea is just a way for americans to get "our kind" to buy an over priced product. Many of you have kids, and i would guess most of you also have said to those kids something along these lines: "Those shoes are just as good as the $150 ones", or "I'm not spending that much money on a pair of jeans just because of the name". Well, really you "never buy non-American made" people are just like those kids...You have been sold on the idea that the name matters. 

Somehow A job sent to India is a "lost job"? No, its a job for a family that needs it...in India.Do you have something against people in india? or is it possible you value one life over another? 

If the USA doesnt like jobs being sent over seas, then make the product better or make it cheaper here. 


Now i know some are going to say some excuse like, we cant compete with the china work force because they are using "slave labor", child labor, unsafe labor,etc... You can think American made products are done without these tactics but really stop and think about that for a second... Can we as americans REALLY point the finger? Almost all of our beginning infrusructure while building the "american production machine" came from REAL slave labor. How many china men and black men were used to build the railroads in the USA? Heck , for that matter, where did we get the land? Ah, we stole it from the native indians. What does the average man make compaired to the average woman in the USA for the same job? How about the average Hispanic? In the US, how many people live below the poverty line, but work in factories that build these "American Made" products? if china pays a worker $1 a day, but they can buy food and shelter for $0.50 a day, is that worse than an american system that pays $7-8-9 an hour but it costs $700-$1,800 to rent a home and another $300-$400 a month to feed a family and then the mandated insurance for health...car...house...boat... Just kidding, these folks cant afford a boat! 

I mean really, is your argument that we shouldnt buy china made products..because you care sooo much about the workers in china...really? thats your pitch? "We care about you so much, that we are going to stop buying the products you make, so that you cant even earn the $1 a day that you earn now"? I'm sure you think that will help them...um hm... wink wink. 

Lets be honest "you and yours" are more valuable than "them and theirs"? like i said, i think thats the biggest travisty in the history of human kind. IMO. 

BTW, back to the woodmill: Since when did the motors used in an ATV reflect on the quality of a motor made for a wood saw that happens to be made in the same country? I wasnt aware that the largest country in the world made all of their motors in one place. I wasn't aware that every company that makes motors in china makes them with the same quality. We don't do that in America, but it sounds like you think that all China has is one company that does everything. 

Lets think about this, but instead of china made products, lets talk about american made products still being made today: Should i not buy an american made car motor, because Harley Davidson cant seem to make a motorcycle engine that doesnt leak oil? Should i not buy an apple pie from the corner store because American made McDonalds it terrible for my health ? 
I once purchased an axe made in Germany that fell apart, so i supose i should never by a german made kitchen knife. Or, do you care so much about the german people that we should stop buying thier products too? 


Dont get me wrong, if you want to buy only "american made" for a large % higher, simply because of the country it was made in, and not the quality vs price, go ahead... just dont complain when you have driven the price of every american made product through the roof and forced all the companies to another country. It wont be the people in China you should blaim, it will be the people in the US that made stuff that was only better because it said "american made" and not because it was actually a better value. If you want to make it in the USA and still compete, maybe you shouldnt pay the CEO $4 million a year and the guy putting it together $8.00 an hour. Its petty easy to pay the $15.00 an hour when the CEO makes $40 an hour rather than $4 million a year. 

I care just as much about america as any of you, i just care about the other countries just as much. I only see boarders on maps, and i dont look at maps too often.


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## tradar

Well snow is getting down there... I have 1/2 my track set up in my garage, and my saw stood up,, 
I am still waiting getting to my frame that is under the snow,,( I am mounting my saw on 6x6 I beams.)


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## jimmy mc

tradar said:


> Well snow is getting down there... I have 1/2 my track set up in my garage, and my saw stood up,,
> I am still waiting getting to my frame that is under the snow,,( I am mounting my saw on 6x6 I beams.)


That has got to be killing you. Having a saw all this time and not getting to use it. I was back in the woods today and found a sassafras that the loggers damaged. It is about 20", going to pull it out tomorrow. I just love to saw sassafras.
I'm not trying to make you fell any worse. Just building the excitement


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## jimmy mc

sirlips, I find what you say to be true. A lot of people just don't get it. Yes this mill are made in China. My brother in law has one of the big name mills, he has two of them to be honest. His little one cost him over $15,000. Mine was 1/10th of that. He can saw lumber faster than I can but his lumber is not better than mine. I got my mill in Dec. last year, it has already sawn enough lumber to equal what I paid for it. I did not sale one board of it, but that did not mean the lumber was less valuable.
I do not care where my mill was made. I just care about the value and long term service from the mill. These mills are made just as good if not better than any mill in its class. It is made at a better price than any I can find. There has been 2 guys drive here just to see one in person to see if they really are any good. Both of them now have one and are sawing their own lumber when they need some.
Don't let the ones that say buy American get to you. Get you a mill and enjoy it. You will never be sorry you did.


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## Chad Holst

I don't know if this is too off topic, but what's the basic process for milling as a hobby for home use? Besides simply felling a tree and slicing it up on a mill there must be other steps...drying, kilns, sealers...etc? Or it it truely as simple a chop, cut and build?


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## jimmy mc

sirlips said:


> I don't know if this is too off topic, but what's the basic process for milling as a hobby for home use? Besides simply felling a tree and slicing it up on a mill there must be other steps...drying, kilns, sealers...etc? Or it it truely as simple a chop, cut and build?


It all depends on what you are doing. I just built and outhouse from poplar, I cut it and milled it then built the outhouse. If you are going to build furniture you will need to dry the lumber some way. You can build a kiln for little money or spend as much as you want. It depends on size style and so on. Air drying will work fine just takes a lot of time. Not sure what sealers you are asking about but as soon after you cut and buck a log you will want to put a sealer on the ends to keep the log from cracking.


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## tradar

Hey Jimmy,,
You got a part Number on those blades so I can just call them and order a number,, I am worried sick about getting the wrong blades,,


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## jimmy mc

tradar said:


> Hey Jimmy,,
> You got a part Number on those blades so I can just call them and order a number,, I am worried sick about getting the wrong blades,,


I am sorry but I don't have a part number. They didn't give me one. When you call them just tell them that you want the 4 deg. hook angle. They sell blades in 10, 7, and 4 degree. The 4 deg. works good with the lower horse power we have. The .050 thick blade works better with the type of guides on our mills. I get less wave in the cut.

This is what I ordered. 144 inches long, 4 degree hook angle, 1 1/4 inch wide blade, 050 inches thick. They are working great.

If you would like you can have them look up what I ordered and just tell them that is what you want.

Jimmy McIntosh


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## tradar

Do you order a min # of them? I will call them on Monday.. I know I will muck some stuff up..LOL If it can be broke I can do it,, that's how I learned to be the best automation tech money can buy,, 
Like,,, " What does it do when I do this... BANG,,, Ops I better figure out how to get that running again.. "

You seem like you like to tinker with stuff too Jimmy,, You must to run a farm.. ya cant afford to call a repair guy everytime something is not right..:smile:


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## jimmy mc

trader,
They list them is orders of 15. When I called them they told me they would sell me any amount I wanted even 1. I ordered 15, I know I will use them and more.
As for tinkering, That is my thing. Just a partial list, radio control airplanes and helicopters, motorized bicycles, antique garden tractors, I build my own pony carts and wagons, This winter I built my sawmill trailer, and a towable backhoe. In just about every case I would rebuild, or build before I would buy. And I do all my own repairs. I have built airplanes, boats, campers, sandrails, guns, bows, bicycles and more. Man do I like to tinker.


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## tradar

hey jimmy.. we are setting up our saw today.. about 40* today, I graded the spot last week so the sun could melt the ground.. Up here the ground NEVER froze, It snowed so hard so fast it insulated the ground. 
So today we went and bought two 6x6 beams. 12 4x4 landscaping post and some cement,, and some BIG LAG screws,, 100.00 shot in the foot.. but I will post some to let you see..


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## jimmy mc

tradar said:


> hey jimmy.. we are setting up our saw today.. about 40* today, I graded the spot last week so the sun could melt the ground.. Up here the ground NEVER froze, It snowed so hard so fast it insulated the ground.
> So today we went and bought two 6x6 beams. 12 4x4 landscaping post and some cement,, and some BIG LAG screws,, 100.00 shot in the foot.. but I will post some to let you see..


 You will be sawing in no time if you haven't already. Take a lot of pictures. I didn't and now I wish I had. 
This week I am going to add the track extensions to mine and set it where we are working on my barn. Will have it there all summer cutting lumber to finish out the inside. My wife is retiring next month and we are going to camp there all summer and maybe move into the barn this fall. I will post pictures of the extensions when I get them done.


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## RZFARMS

*Newbie to this forum*

Just wanted to say say thanks to all who have posted, your comments, bites of advice and stories of trial and error have helped me tremendously. Lets keep the stories and pictures rolling. Next Monday my sawmill will be delivered and I will be looking forward to sawyering up some logs for good use around my small farm. I've been searching for a used mill, contemplated making one, but to my avail it just made sense to get my feet wet on an affordable Harbor Frieght mill. So far my experience from ordering online, following up on backorder updates to delivery confirmation from Conway has been nothing less than exceptional. Already ordered up some Woodmizer Blades-I will give them a try and I will keep everyone posted on my progress. FYI: original online order was 4-1-14. My actual delivery date is set for Monday 4-21-14. Will post some pics soon. Mark - RZ Tree Farm (Amherst Twp, Ohio).:thumbsup:


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## RZFARMS

Update, on 4-21-14 sawmill arrived-no issues, packed well in metal caged crate, no damage. Its now assembly time. note: motor on unit is the 280cc PEDATOR motor, looks like a 1 inch shaft.


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## jimmy mc

Great news. Don't forget when you put it together to take the head lift apart and grease it well with some goo grease, and replace the throttle cable. These will fail if you don't do this. You can go to Wallmart and get a brake cable for a bicycle and use it for the throttle. Just doing that will keep you sawing for who knows how long.
The engine is a 280cc. Thay say it is a 7hp but it is really a 9 horse. It does a good job.


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## HRT87

*Convert Harbor Fright Sawmill to "Power Up and Down"*

Today I converted my Harbor Freight Sawmill to "Power Up and Down". Remove hand crank by driving the retaining pin out. I replaced the crank with a 3/4" nut with threads drilled out and a .2" hole drilled through the perpendicular axis so the retaining pin can be driven through it and the screw drive shaft. To power the sawmill up and down I use an 18 Volt battery, reversible powered drill with a 3/4" socket attached. Works great and is a lot easier and quicker than hand cranking at a height above your shoulder.


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## HRT87

*Harbor Freight Sawmill Power Uu & Down Modification Photos*

Harbor Freight Sawmill Power Up & Down Modification Photos
hines.blogspot.com
http://i.imgur.com/dVKUSja.jpg, http://i.imgur.com/6OUgkmw.jpg, http://i.imgur.com/SDAK8yv.jpg, http://i.imgur.com/dPlUZgs.jpg


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## RZFARMS

*Genius*

Geat idea. Thanks for sharing the pics. I will post some soon after my unit is assembled. Mark


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## newb

Why do you want your mill angled, and so far off the ground?


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## HRT87

*Why do you want your mill angled, and so far off the ground?*

I am utilizing an existing building and concrete slab. I wanted to store the mill under roof. The mill is actually level. As it turns out I am really happy withe the slope of the concrete. I have a water line and hose available to fill the small 1 gallon water reservoir frequently and to wash off logs before and during milling to reduce blade dulling dirt. The slope allows for easy cleaning around mill. The height is set where mill is closest to ground. I am able to walk upright for the majority of 22' bed length thus reducing back strain. I load log on mill with tractor forklift loader. It works well for me. Regards, Monte Hines hines.blogspot.com


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## HRT87

newb said:


> The angle to match the mill is 2 and 1/4 by 4,Im in northern MT. I don't really want to replace the whole track, just add on.


I used 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle which local supplier had at a reasonable cost. It worked fine for adding 10' to the bed. I used 3 - 2" x 2.5" pallet wood pieces screwed together and attached with a one 6" x 1/2" carriage bolts (counter sunk) attached to each angle to make bed supports. I joined the rails (new and HF) with a 2" x 2" x 1/8" x 3" angle placed under and on outside with 4 - 5/16" bolts / holes. This assures perfect alignment of joining rails. I anchored the rails with 3/8 x 4" lag screws to my wood support system. http://hines.blogspot.com/2014/04/hines-farm-sawmill-beginning-setup.html


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## pidaster

I'm on the edge of purchasing this mill. It's currently on sale for $2k but I can't get any 20% off coupons to work. There hasn't been any mills for sale nearby except one that looked abused and others that are way out of my price range. 
Do any of you who purchased it still think it's worth the $2k or should I continue to wait and try to get it at $1650?


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## HRT87

pidaster said:


> I'm on the edge of purchasing this mill. It's currently on sale for $2k but I can't get any 20% off coupons to work. There hasn't been any mills for sale nearby except one that looked abused and others that are way out of my price range.
> Do any of you who purchased it still think it's worth the $2k or should I continue to wait and try to get it at $1650?


my 2 cents 

Great sawmill value at $2k or even higher... I could not be happier... love the high bed bunks for placement of logs using tractor pallet forks... easy/low cost to add bed length using 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle, easy to modify for power up/down... engine starts and runs great with plenty of power... buy good blades (I am using LENOX WOODMASTER C-SHARP™ BAND SAW BLADES - http://www.spectrumsupply.com/woodmasterc-sharp.aspx))... seem to be holding up well on hardwoods... 

Regards and Respect To All,
Hines Farm
http://hines.blogspot.com/2014/04/hines-farm-sawmill-beginning-setup.html


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## Carrie31

*Wait for the coupon to work!!*



pidaster said:


> I'm on the edge of purchasing this mill. It's currently on sale for $2k but I can't get any 20% off coupons to work. There hasn't been any mills for sale nearby except one that looked abused and others that are way out of my price range.
> Do any of you who purchased it still think it's worth the $2k or should I continue to wait and try to get it at $1650?


We bought this sawmill for recreational use, and every male in the family is having a blast with it. I would definitely recommend that you purchase it, BUT- wait til you can get that coupon to work. We bought ours when it was on sale for $1800, used the coupon, and paid, in total, around $1700. You have to factor in the tax, which will be extremely high, and then the shipping- because it's not cheap, at all. In addition to what the shipping for something that big would ordinarily be, there's an extra almost $100 fee for it being so huge. THEN, factor in that the delivery people will charge extra because they have to bring a truck with a lift gate. We avoided that charge only because my husband's uncle, who lives across the road, had a tractor with a forklift attachment, and we were able to use that. That 20% coupon will just pay for all of those extras, so it's well worth it!


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## pidaster

I'm going to call today and see is they will accept the coupon by phone. I will have it delivered to my work address and use the forklift to unload it. I saw several people mentioned Conway as the carrier and they are a regular at our shop. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pidaster

It only took about 30 minutes on the phone but they are supposed to be accepting the coupon for 20% of the order which after shipping, tax and such I will be back at $1999. Funny how that worked out. 
They will send me an email within 48 hours to confirm the discount and I should receive the mill in 7-10 days. 
Woohoo!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jimmy mc

Pidaster, You are going to love your mill. I have had more fun with mine then anything I can think of. You are going to become best of friends with all your neighbors. I have no problem finding someone to cut some lumber for. Good blades, clean and lube your lift crank assy. well. Replace the throttle cable, and have fun learning to cut lumber.


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## pidaster

I'm actually going to leave it up by my parents house at the farm right now. I think I'm eventually going to build a trailer for it so I can bounce it between my house and the farm. Right now I have 4 sweet gum logs to practice on at my house. I'm going to wait until it arrives before I order more blades.


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## pidaster

The mill will arrive at my warehouse on Tuesday so hopefully I'll get to set it up that weekend. I'm going to practice on some sweetgum logs I have. Should I sticker it with scrap from the sweetgum? Also, how far apart on placement?


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## panther49

Just received confirmation that HF finally is shipping a pair of extension rails for my sawmill!.
Now I'll be able to cut 16' long boards. I already have all the other ancillaries, bunks, etc.
It will be a little while before I finally install the extension but when finished I'll post some photos.
It took 6 moths for the parts to be shipped from the Worker's Paradise, but the people at HF have been extremely attentive and patient with my constant pestering.
I have been having all kinds of problems at the farm starting with having to fire the guy that was to built my barn, but I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!


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## pidaster

I finally got mine set up yesterday and cut a small sweet gum log. I think it did a great job!


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## mikeswoods

I'm following this----Please ,post a picture when you can---what is the widest slab that it can cut?


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## pidaster

I'll have to look in the manual but it's either in my truck or up at my parents shop. My truck is at work and it will be two weeks before I get back to the mill. Hopefully somebody else will chime in sooner.


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## HRT87

*HF widest slab*



mikeswoods said:


> I'm following this----Please ,post a picture when you can---what is the widest slab that it can cut?


HF lists it at:
Maximum log diameter: 22 in.
Maximum board width: 20 in.

Actual if you push it to its limits:
Maximum log diameter: 26 in.
Maximum board width: 21 in.

Regards
Hines Farm Blog
http://hines.blogspot.com/2014/04/hines-farm-sawmill-beginning-setup.html


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## toddheath2005

I posted a comment on your blog Hines Farm. Very nice and very clean setup;-) GREAT JOB!! in my comment I suggested maybe we start a Yahoo or Google group where all us who own or are interested in the HF bandmill and maybe some of the others that look and perform the same like woodlands and a couple others that are the same mill just different colors and names. That way we could all post pics and different mods we have done or thinking of doing. We are proud of what we have and could kinda moderate some of the trash that has plagued this forum in the past. I also feel it would get more people interacting on different aspects of small personal mills and tips and tricks. Also maybe a link section for blades and parts. I found a supplier for blade guide bearings made of stainless steel and should last even longer than the scooter bearings I replaced my original with. I posted a while back that I got my bearings from a skate shop in the mall. I thought they went to skateboard but actually they go to stand-up scooter or the off-road skateboard. Been needing to clarify that sorry haven't done that till now. I just gave the bearing to the guy at skate shop and he gave me new bearings. I now have ordered some made from stainless and will be even better I feel. I have extra if someone needs a set plus have the numbers for all the bearings the mill uses. I had a track roller starting to hang up a bit so that's what started the research into what the bearing numbers were and upgraded bearings. I can email them to you or just post if many want the numbers. Anyhow rambled long enough just wanted to throw that out there for everyone and see what they thought bout it. P.S. I don't have time or patience to set up a group but would help moderate it if someone wants to set it up. I believe it doesn't cost anything. KEEP THE MILL WHEELS TURNING AND THE SAWDUST BLOWING!!! 

TODD


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## jimmy mc

Todd by all means post the numbers for the bearings and where they can be ordered. All of us will need new bearings from time to time. Any upgrades on bearings is a good idea. I am going to need some blade guide bearings soon. mine are staring to grove on me.

Jimmy


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## pidaster

Jimmy, I tried to order the blades you recommended today but they wanted a field salesman to call me back to talk to me. I never heard from them. Is this how they first set you up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## toddheath2005

*blades*

I use spectrum for my blades. Woodmaster C. I will get the list of bearings for ya in the morning...


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## Bill Space

Hi guys!

Well you convinced me to buy one of these Harbor freight mills too! I didn't tell the wife yet… but I don't expect any problems. She was visiting her relatives and just came back home today.

I used a 25% off coupon against the sale price of $1999. When I called and asked if I could use a 25% off coupon I was told no, sorry, you cannot use it for the item. The woman I talked to actually checked with somebody while I was on hold, before coming back and giving me that information.

She then asked if I would like to order the item. I said no, I'm not going to order this item if I can't use the 25% off coupon, because I know other people have used that coupon when they ordered it. I asked her to check what the lowest price would be if I didn't use the coupon, even though I had no intention of ordering one.

She put me on hold and then came back and said she was sorry for giving me wrong information, and that I could use a 25% off coupon to order the mill. She said she could not get her computer to take the discount coupon, but the main office would subtract that amount from the total ($500). I said okay and that in that case I'll order one. Within an hour I got a email with the corrected invoice, showing the total for the mill delivered, including sales tax, at $1,708. Not the lowest price historically perhaps, but still not bad considering several years have passed since these mills were sold for much lower prices. 

I doubt in my case that the mill will pay for itself. But it's my equivalent of golf clubs and green fees, so I know I will get a lot of enjoyment out of it, just like others do when they spend money to play golf, or go to the bars on weekends, or whatever trips their trigger. 

Surprisingly, I ordered the mill on the 24th, and I received an email this morning that it was shipped today, the 26th.

So now for the most important question: who's going to order one next?:laughing:

By the way, I hope this thread is past the political/country BS and back on track again! Also look forward to seeing information on those replacement bearing numbers.

Bill


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## Bill Space

I tried to send Todd a p.m. but cannot since I don't have enough posts.

So here it is:

Hi Todd, 

It would be great if you could post that list of bearing numbers in the thread about the Harbor freight bandsaw mill. 

I think posting it there rather than emailing it to people would be most helpful for others in the future.

The bandsaw mill I ordered from Harbor freight on Tuesday shipped today. I look forward to wearing out the bearings!

Thanks for your kind offer to supply that information. It will be helpful to a lot of us I'm sure.

Bill


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## jimmy mc

pidaster said:


> Jimmy, I tried to order the blades you recommended today but they wanted a field salesman to call me back to talk to me. I never heard from them. Is this how they first set you up?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, I went to their web site and got their phone number, called them and ordered the blades. No problem what so ever.


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## jimmy mc

Welcome Bill Space, You will be surprised how quick your mill will pay for itself. One shed can easlly cost more then the cost of your mill.


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## toddheath2005

Hey all,
Sorry for takin a bit to reply with the list of bearing #'s. Been pulled different directions lately.. ok here goes..

(1) Clutch bearing: 1541-2rs
(4) Track roller: 6004rs
(2) band wheel: 6305rs
(2) blade guide: 6200rs
(2) upgraded blade guide stainless steel: 6200zz

I ordered the bearings from various suppliers on eBay but the best one was usabearingsbelts. I ended up with extra set of each and couple extra sets for the blade guides. They were all reasonably cheap except for the stainless steel upgraded ones. I ordered them from EMPIRERC and they took forever to ship. And I bought 4 sets (8 bearings) of the stock ones from usabearing for less than 2 sets of the stainless also all had free shipping. EMPIRERC was the only ones that had the stainless ones in stock so I ordered an extra set. So basically I ordered 2 sets of every one and all together 6 sets of guide bearings. I will have to look back but all the bearings totaled less than $50 and should be good for many many hours.lol I am in process of putting my mill back together ether stationary or portable haven't decided yet but I gotta get my butt in gear the logs are piling up.lol the only bearing I didn't purchase was the one on the clutch mainly because I got wrapped up with the guide bearings I forgot all about that one. I haven't looked but I am sure they sell them everywhere I figure if it goes out I will go to the bearing supply house in town they sell everything and pick up a couple. My thought was if your gonna order might as well get extra the while 2 IS 1 AND 1 IS NONE!! plus looking on eBay usually they had better deals or free shipping on multiple ones. Sometimes its cheaper to get more with free shipping than less and pay shipping we all know they can rape you on shipping! Anyhow I think I got it all. Oh the only place I have found the guide blocks are from woodlands mills. They will try and sell you the "tune up kit" way over priced! Tell them you only want the blocks. I haven't looked lately you might be able to order them online now. If you have to call them they WILL ASK if its for their mill. Sorry folks your gonna have to tell a white lie if you want the blocks. I told them I just bought it used and some idiot re-painted it and the serial and model numbers were gone. I know I know but hey got the blocks. Like I said it was couple years ago and they told me they only sell parts for their customers not harbor freight or any other manufacture. Maybe they decided they missing out on money not selling parts to these machines. They were trying to convince everyone they hand build their machines at their factory. Like I said in a past post my neighbor down the road bought one shortly after I bought my HF mill and I tell you they may assemble it at their factory but the parts are spit out the same China factory as the HF mill is. I see they have changed a few things but the base of the mill is the same. And that particular year his is exactly the same as mine except for his has kohler 9hp and different color. Anyhow there a few tips for you. One last tip I took a paint marker and opened my blade guards and wrote all the part numbers for everything I need on the back side of the door. I first used tape to write it on but it came off so now its permanant and I know where to look I can never keep track of stuff I write down.lol 
Todd
PS you will be happy with your mill yes I have seen the price lower but you got hella better price than I did!! I am very satisfied even at the price I paid. It will make u grit your teeth when you see the price drop after you bought it but hey it could go back to the price I paid and then you be jumping with joy that you got it for the price you did. And for less than 2grand it will pay itself off in couple months of part time sawing. One reason is you just simply can't put a price on the quality of wood you will pull off your mill. Alfterall u will look at a tree and mill it your way and you just can't get that look from boards you buy at the lumber yard. Even if you never sale a piece of wood what you will mill is priceless.;-) 

I would like to see pics and videos of all the mills and lumber produced. We can show all the nay sayers you don't need a 20 thousand dollar machine to create beauty. If you look at woodmizers site I think its funny that most of the contest winners of large projects like houses are using the smaller manual mills like ours only their version and the winners of the small projects like birdhouses all have the massive machines. Maybe they busy making money Idk but then that big hydraulic mill made some lazy or just expensive toy. I think the bare bones manual mills have more of a grass roots pride involved. As far as log size ya we can't slab as wide but I have pics of a white oak I mille


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## toddheath2005

Hey all,
Sorry for takin a bit to reply with the list of bearing #'s. Been pulled different directions lately.. ok here goes..

(1) Clutch bearing: 1541-2rs
(4) Track roller: 6004rs
(2) band wheel: 6305rs
(2) blade guide: 6200rs
(2) upgraded blade guide stainless steel: 6200zz

I ordered the bearings from various suppliers on eBay but the best one was usabearingsbelts. I ended up with extra set of each and couple extra sets for the blade guides. They were all reasonably cheap except for the stainless steel upgraded ones. I ordered them from EMPIRERC and they took forever to ship. And I bought 4 sets (8 bearings) of the stock ones from usabearing for less than 2 sets of the stainless also all had free shipping. EMPIRERC was the only ones that had the stainless ones in stock so I ordered an extra set. So basically I ordered 2 sets of every one and all together 6 sets of guide bearings. I will have to look back but all the bearings totaled less than $50 and should be good for many many hours.lol I am in process of putting my mill back together ether stationary or portable haven't decided yet but I gotta get my butt in gear the logs are piling up.lol the only bearing I didn't purchase was the one on the clutch mainly because I got wrapped up with the guide bearings I forgot all about that one. I haven't looked but I am sure they sell them everywhere I figure if it goes out I will go to the bearing supply house in town they sell everything and pick up a couple. My thought was if your gonna order might as well get extra the whole 2 IS 1 AND 1 IS NONE!! plus looking on eBay usually they had better deals or free shipping on multiple ones. Sometimes its cheaper to get more with free shipping than less and pay shipping we all know they can rape you on shipping! Anyhow I think I got it all. Oh the only place I have found the guide blocks are from woodlands mills. They will try and sell you the "tune up kit" way over priced! Tell them you only want the blocks. I haven't looked lately you might be able to order them online now. If you have to call them they WILL ASK if its for their mill. Sorry folks your gonna have to tell a white lie if you want the blocks. I told them I just bought it used and some idiot re-painted it and the serial and model numbers were gone. I know I know but hey got the blocks. Like I said it was couple years ago and they told me they only sell parts for their customers not harbor freight or any other manufacture. Maybe they decided they missing out on money not selling parts to these machines. They were trying to convince everyone they hand build their machines at their factory. Like I said in a past post my neighbor down the road bought one shortly after I bought my HF mill and I tell you they may assemble it at their factory but the parts are spit out the same China factory as the HF mill is. I see they have changed a few things but the base of the mill is the same. And that particular year his is exactly the same as mine except for his has kohler 9hp and different color. Anyhow there a few tips for you. One last tip I took a paint marker and opened my blade guards and wrote all the part numbers for everything I need on the back side of the door. I first used tape to write it on but it came off so now its permanant and I know where to look I can never keep track of stuff I write down.lol 
Todd

PS you will be happy with your mill yes I have seen the price lower but you got hella better price than I did!! I am very satisfied even at the price I paid. It will make u grit your teeth when you see the price drop after you bought it but hey it could go back to the price I paid and then you be jumping with joy that you got it for the price you did. And for less than 2grand it will pay itself off in couple months of part time sawing. One reason is you just simply can't put a price on the quality of wood you will pull off your mill. Alfterall u will look at a tree and mill it your way and you just can't get that look from boards you buy at the lumber yard. Even if you never sale a piece of wood what you will mill is priceless.;-) 

I would like to see pics and videos of all the mills and lumber produced. We can show all the nay sayers you don't need a 20 thousand dollar machine to create beauty. If you look at woodmizers site I think its funny that most of the contest winners of large projects like houses are using the smaller manual mills like ours only their version and the winners of the small projects like birdhouses all have the massive machines. Maybe they busy making money Idk but then that big hydraulic mill made some lazy or just expensive toy. I think the bare bones manual mills have more of a grass roots pride involved. As far as log size ya we can't slab as wide but I have pics of a white oak I milled that would make most big mills have trouble. So I say let the sawdust fly. Now I pumped up gonna go out and finish setting mine back up and sling some boards sorry if any spelling or words jacked up I using my phone and it changes things without me knowing and most time it makes no sense.lol


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## toddheath2005

See somehow my phone posted it twice except the first post wasn't done.lol sorry just ignore first one...


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## toddheath2005

Oh I do have a bit of advice for anyone who is just getting into sawmilling. I am no expert in any way this is just my 2cents from experience. One huge mistake was letting someone I didn't know operate my mill. I try make it short its kinda funny now but I was mad as a hornet then. First got mill set up I was on fire baby nobody could stop me I was gonna be a tycoon of the milling industry. Well my ego and pride was soon smashed. I had been milling like crazy on some things I had laying around read and watched every video I could get hold of so I knew it all. I was talking and walking tall and proud. So made mistake number one! I ran an add on Craigslist stating new sawyer in town I will beat any prices guaranteed fast turnaround. There only one other guy that advertised around here and he older and slower and remember I was on fire I was smoking blades literally. Anyhow after a huge response I lined up some customers. The next day got home from work and the first of empire was waiting in the drive for me with 2 awesome black walnut logs. These were cream of the crop! I looked at him and no problem how you want them cut and when you need them? He just quietly said I want them 1/4 sawed with as many 1x6 but make sure you make them thick enough so I can plain them down to 1x then I want couple 5x7-8 for mantles. No probem I gettr done you can pick them up this time tomorrow if you like. Ok done deal. I was smiling ear to ear. Skipped in house and told my wife see baby I don't have to build airplanes anymore this is gonna work. Well I started sawing took next day off work to work on them. He showed up we went out to load them. He whipped out what I now know is a homemade gauge to check thickness he started checking and they were to thin. He was pissed. I was so excited I forgot to account for kerf plus I think I miss read the funky ruler attached to the mill. Then just when I thought it couldn't get worse I hadn't 1/4 them correctly. I thought I knew how to do it. Alfterall I knew it all. So at this point he was so mad I just wanted him gone. So it we settled up all it cost me was a day missed from work few hours of sawing and $250!! So I thought. Well I had actually never met the older slower gentleman that had been the only sawyer around here for years. If you haven't figured out yet YUP it was him! Well after my ego and puffed up on top of the world attitude was deflated he pretty much took any business I had lined up so the mill sat there like a wounded bird quiet and hoping nobody can see it. So after my wife nipping at me. Well little harsher than that.lol about what happen to my empire? So after some persuasive words from my wife that led me to my second and most important mistake to date! Like the title says DON'T EVER LET ANYONE YOU DON'T KNOW RUN YOUR MILL!!! 

MISTAKE #2 

so after my whipping from the guy and my wife for few days maybe weeks its been a while back. I ran another ad because the minute he left I pulled the hotshot ad. This one said NEW SAWMILL NEED SOMEONE TO TEACH ME!! it went on to say if you know how to saw I will trade you bring the logs I will let you use my mill if you teach me some things. Sounds easy enough! After many calls most I could ether tell they knew as much or less than me or laughed that the mill was from harbor freight I finally talked to a guy who sounded like he knew what he was doing and had couple good sized cedar logs. The next weekend he came out looked over the mill we shook hands and commenced to sawing. I put a new blade on loaded the first log with the skidsteer started it and said there ya go I will watch and see for a bit. Well this guy started into the fist cut and man he was pushing it like he was using a table saw cutting veneer!! The saw was bogging down clutch belt slipping then the idiot reaches over and pushes on the governor to override it the motor screaming he made it thru. I told him ya might wanna slow down a bit. He grumbled he knew what he was doing then pushed on the high lock so bad he bent the handle. Screaming away he went again! Somehow he made it thru again without blowing the engine. After that I went to house get something to fix the bent handle I hear it screaming again as I am starting to steam I all they way to the house in the garage probably 4-5 hundred feet away looking for something to fix the handle and lube it so maybe he wouldn't push so hard when I hear what sounded like a shotgun going off. I thought what the hell he do? I go flying outta garage running like mad dropped the tools on ground to find him standing there scratching his head looking at a broken blade. Now this was a brand new blade I was pretty hot so I talked with the guy I didn't want to hurt his feelings or make him feel stupid so I took the blame and said i probably put it on wrong. He agreed it was my fault and proceeded to tell me that this mill not cutting straight I must of set it up wrong. I knew it was from him going like a bat outta hell override the governor and pushing as hard as he could and he was a pretty big guy! So I said ok let me get another blade on this time I will run the mill and you can just give me some lessons along the way. Ok he said. I could tell this guy didn't know anything he might had watched a YouTube video or something. Talking he knew about different techniques and said he had worked for a mill. Maybe a long time ago and he forgot or he just a helper unloading boards. So I put the new blade on made sure all was good and tracking straight after the blow out. I told him I was gonna go get the tools I had dropped and fix the lock and lube it so maybe wouldn't have to push it to point of bending it. I said hang tight I gonna be running my mill from now on. Ok ok he said. I go get tools and my wife stopped me to see bout the noise and how its going I grumbled at her for min bout him she reminded me he was older probably wiser have patience give him time. Ok honey so I calmer now gathering the tools I dropped when I heard the mill screaming!! I gathered stuff and was walking very fast back. He got tired of waiting on me the whole 3 min I was gone so he decided to go ahead and start without me. Alfterall even though it was my mill he was the teacher so he acted like it was his. I could see he was going slow I thought well maybe he actually listened and gonna be easy. The closer I got I thought he going really slow! He not moving I got closer I could hear a god awful sound! Then kaboon another shotgun sound then just motor screaming and him standing there I ran over killed the engine asked if he was ok I don't know if he was having a heart attack from the sound but he said he was ok. So I started to inspect what happened that's when he started raising hell about me wasting his time and logs and I should pay him for his time because he only made like 4 cuts and drove 30 miles and on and on. I was thinking hell with it now I have 2 broke blades bent lock I might as well cut my loss pay the guy and just get him outta there while the mill still standing!! He was demanding I pay him $100 for his gas and time! Now I was getting mad I couldn't even speak for fear I would beat the guy with my cant hook and feed him thru my wood chipper into the pond for catfish food. So here come my wife she had been watching from the house and could see that look on my face saying somebody better come save this guy before its too late! She told me to go get a cool drink of water then comeback and unload the log and she would just write a check and get him outta here. I said ok took a drink and went to unload the log that's when I saw what happen and why the blade broke. In his unwilling to wait for me somehow the the little bar that stops the blade from hitting the log stop had got moved and YUP the stop was to high and well he made it half way thru the metal stop before it exploded the blade! Holly cow I had let this guy bully me into thinking all this was my fault and then extort me for money because of my faulty equipment! I blew up my wife came to calm me down I told her she better go inside and if she sees any blood flying call the ambulance. She didn't go In because at this point she was scared to leave but she did move outta my way I proceeded to tell the guy he probably better just get in his truck and go! He was yelling about this that and not leaving without his log. I said ok I not gonna keep anyone's stuff. So I got hooked up to the log Idk what he said to my wife but she Bout five foot and weigh about a buck. All I saw was her finger pointing him backing up. So I flew off bobcat grabbed the handle looked up about the time I saw him getting in his truck and trying to start it then tear outta there!! His log still attached to the bobcat. Like I said Idk what he said but he was willing to fight me but didn't want anything to do with her.lol hell I got her beat by a foot and 160lbs.lol but then again she scares me too;-)

Sorry it was a long story and its funny now but its a very valuable lesson I learned!! Now I only one who runs my mill not because I wouldn't let them just everyone knows the story and they don't want my wife after them.lol well I let my dad run it once he was like a kid again;-) anyhow I have since learned a lot about sawing made amends with the other sawyer but have never heard from the idiot who tore the mill up. I still have his log I will keep it as a reminder of the lesson I learned.... 

Some might enjoy reading this some may not but we all can relate to it and I swear on the bible every bit of the story is true!!

Todd


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## Bill Space

Thanks for the info on the bearings Todd!

Now if I can figure out how to get my computer to double post like your phone did, I can get my posts up to where I can send PMs :laughing:

The Con-Way freight terminal for the Pittsburgh area is only about ten minutes from my home, driving slowly, so I am up in the air right now as to whether I should pick up the mill there, or wait for the delivery truck... it will fit in the back of my E350 Ford van...I guess I should give them a call.

Can't wait for the mill to arrive. Still have not told the wife...  Don't expect any resistance but she is jet lagged at the moment...come to think of it, maybe I should tell her now before she fully adjusts! :thumbsup:

Bill


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## HRT87

You will enjoy the mill...
It is a great feeling to be able to mill your own logs... 

Interesting link for "sawmill owners and others" - last steam-powered commercial saw mill in the country
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/02/25/hull-oakes-sawmill/

Regards
Hines Farm Blog
http://hines.blogspot.com/2014/04/hines-farm-sawmill-beginning-setup.html


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## Jagracinn

Bill Space said:


> Hi guys!
> 
> Well you convinced me to buy one of these Harbor freight mills too! I didn't tell the wife yet… but I don't expect any problems. She was visiting her relatives and just came back home today.
> 
> I used a 25% off coupon against the sale price of $1999. When I called and asked if I could use a 25% off coupon I was told no, sorry, you cannot use it for the item. The woman I talked to actually checked with somebody while I was on hold, before coming back and giving me that information.
> 
> She then asked if I would like to order the item. I said no, I'm not going to order this item if I can't use the 25% off coupon, because I know other people have used that coupon when they ordered it. I asked her to check what the lowest price would be if I didn't use the coupon, even though I had no intention of ordering one.
> 
> She put me on hold and then came back and said she was sorry for giving me wrong information, and that I could use a 25% off coupon to order the mill. She said she could not get her computer to take the discount coupon, but the main office would subtract that amount from the total ($500). I said okay and that in that case I'll order one. Within an hour I got a email with the corrected invoice, showing the total for the mill delivered, including sales tax, at $1,708. Not the lowest price historically perhaps, but still not bad considering several years have passed since these mills were sold for much lower prices.
> 
> I doubt in my case that the mill will pay for itself. But it's my equivalent of golf clubs and green fees, so I know I will get a lot of enjoyment out of it, just like others do when they spend money to play golf, or go to the bars on weekends, or whatever trips their trigger.
> 
> Surprisingly, I ordered the mill on the 24th, and I received an email this morning that it was shipped today, the 26th.
> 
> So now for the most important question: who's going to order one next?:laughing:
> 
> By the way, I hope this thread is past the political/country BS and back on track again! Also look forward to seeing information on those replacement bearing numbers.
> 
> Bill


Hi Bill,I been following this post for a while just got to the end and read your post and saw there was still hope for me. I tried to send you a very long pm and when I clicked summit it was gone and said I needed to post 5 times before I could send a pm. I'm not the fastest on the keyboard so was not real happy when my short book did not go through. Anyways could you please give me a call sounds like you could help me with my order of my mill. Thank You. 
Jesse from Cottonwood Shores Tx. 830-637-9813


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## Bill Space

Jesse, same thing happened to me when I tried to post after having only posted here once. I'll try to give you a call later in the day. 

Well I finally got around to telling the wife. I broke it to her by first telling her the cost of $1500, then by upping it by the cost of shipping and tax.

She was OK with the purchase. In fact I learned something when she replied "That's OK, it's something you need..."  Why didn't I think of that? It's something I need!!! Not something I just want…:thumbsup:

That's right!:laughing:


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## Bill Space

Hi Guys.

(Oh oh, tried inserting images linked to another site. Does not seem to work) ( they do show up on my computer, but not on my phone?)

While waiting for my mill to arrive, and for a rain cloud to pass over, as I am putting clear wood finish on my ceder siding (yesterday, today, tomorrow and so on) I thought I would mention that I discovered that I am an optimist a couple months ago. This is related to a log... 

My daughter's father in law called and said a large cherry tree had fallen down and I could have it if I wanted it. I declined after seeing it as I do not have a trailer. Then thought about it and having a 1 ton van decided I could use my engine hoist to get it in. He said it was 14 feet long. Only a couple miles to my place...I never thought to measure it myself...

So I got there, and pulled the log down off the hill with my van:












Hooked up my engine hoist, and started to put the log in the van. Hummmmm... looks kinda long...turns out it was 17 feet long.










Common sense prevailed. The log became two pieces, which just fit after cutting off the side of the butt end:










Unloading was much easier with my tractor. These logs are waiting for the HF mill to arrive.

And I just got a call from the father in law...a large red oak just fell, do I want it? 24" at the large end...

I just learned that "no" is not part of my vocabulary!

Sun's back out. The paint brush is callin'...

Bill


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## Jagracinn

Just wanted to thank everyone who has posted to this and keep it going. There is a wealth of information on here from trial and maybe a little hot air. Well I'll try to keep it short. Over the last month I have tried to order this mill about 3 times. Each time got the same response no go on the 25% off. After reading Bill's post i had to try again. This time armed with Bill's post almost word for word , they still would not take it. So I told them my "Friend Bill just bought one several days ago and you gave it to him for the 25% off price. They told me if I got that order # they would give it to me at the same price. So I want to send out a very loud Thank you To Bill for taking the time out of his life to help me get a little closer to my dream of having my own sawmill, "even if it's a HF" lol. Call them back today and sawmill will be on its way soon. Thanks again Bill Take care everyone and will keep you updated.


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## Bill Space

[ edit - Oh well, I GIVE UP! Bit at least one photo seems to be there... :-( ]

We'll I did not get back in time to edit the post above and to try to get the photos to appear, so here goes a second try. Without pictures that post does not make much sense...

If I did this right, log after I pulled it down off the hill with my van:

View attachment 97336


Hummmm... Doesn't look like it is going to fit!









Just fit after cutting into two pieces:

View attachment 97335


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## Bill Space

Hi Guys!

Hard to believe after reading the reports of delayed shipments from past days, but the sawmill arrived in Pittsburgh yesterday, and I picked it up at the Con-Way terminal this morning. The terminal is only 10 minutes from my place, so very convenient.

Being a long crate 3x3x7 feet, they used two forklifts to get it into my van. One came in from the side and set the end in the van, then the other came in from behind, held up the crate from the back end, and pushed it in the van. Painless and quick.

It still sits in my van at the moment, as I have to get done with treating the siding on the house before I can mess with it.

I am not easily impressed, but I AM IMPRESSED with the crate the mill is carried by. Not a hint of flex when the crate was lifted by the end 2" of the crate by the forklift, while there was only about 6" supported at the other end, by the floor of the van. Also, NO DAMAGE to the crate whatsoever. :thumbsup: Can't say the same for a couple Grizzly tools that were picked up at the terminal of a different shipping company (UPS freight I think, but could be wrong...)

I am going to try to attach one picture, for practice if nothing else...:icon_smile:









Thanks to all for their posts in this thread. Great help to me and certainly to those who will follow us in the future.

Bill


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## drifterland

Hey guys! Great forum and plenty of info. I am out of my native arkansas working for a few months, but i will be ordering myself an HF mill as soon as possible and have it shipped to a friends place back home. I was contemplating building a mill, but i really don't think i could build it for as cheap as i could get it from them. 

Anyway, I have 11 acres, my good friend has 15 acres about 20 minutes from me and we both will be building: Sheds, barns, cabins and the like. We both have quite a few trees we can start turning into lumber. I also luckily have an uncle with a tree service in Hot Springs! So I plan to bring my trailer to his jobs where he can load logs with his equipment and i can swing back by with my 2-ton truck and haul them out to the mill. Lucky lucky!

Also, I have quite a bit of small cylinders, hoses, a few pumps... So i see a larger engine and hydraulic power for my saw in the future.

First post BTW! Nice to see so much good info. Hopefully i can provide some on other threads!


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## pidaster

I had an issue with my billing that hopefully was straightened out today. My 20% off was never applied and it took three phone calls now but they have confirmed that I will be credited back for it. That means the mill cost $1600 plus tax and shipping which makes right at $2k total. 

I originally put the mill on some 6"x6" posts on the ground several weeks ago. I only cut a small sweet gum log for testing and all was great. Today I cut a Black Gum log about 4' long and into the second slice started hearing an odd noise. I've checked everything out and can't find where it's coming from. It only starts once the blade is spinning so I removed the blade but found no problems. It's still making the noise but not as bad. With the blade removed the free wheel spins fine and when clutch is engaged there is no other noise. Put the blade back on and there's noise again. When cutting the sweet gum it powered through like nothing was there. When cutting the black gum it acted like it was really hard wood and sounded like it put a tad of strain on the engine. Anybody have an idea on what I should look for?

I've been doing some thinking and decided to put it on a small but heavy duty trailer that's rarely used. The trailer is perfectly square still so leveling was super fast and easy. I'm going to put 4 jacks close to the corners to stabilize it during work times.

Any help on the noise would be awesome. This was only the second time for me to run it and only the second log to cut.


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## drifterland

pidaster said:


> I had an issue with my billing that hopefully was straightened out today. My 20% off was never applied and it took three phone calls now but they have confirmed that I will be credited back for it. That means the mill cost $1600 plus tax and shipping which makes right at $2k total.
> 
> I originally put the mill on some 6"x6" posts on the ground several weeks ago. I only cut a small sweet gum log for testing and all was great. Today I cut a Black Gum log about 4' long and into the second slice started hearing an odd noise. I've checked everything out and can't find where it's coming from. It only starts once the blade is spinning so I removed the blade but found no problems. It's still making the noise but not as bad. With the blade removed the free wheel spins fine and when clutch is engaged there is no other noise. Put the blade back on and there's noise again. When cutting the sweet gum it powered through like nothing was there. When cutting the black gum it acted like it was really hard wood and sounded like it put a tad of strain on the engine. Anybody have an idea on what I should look for?
> 
> I've been doing some thinking and decided to put it on a small but heavy duty trailer that's rarely used. The trailer is perfectly square still so leveling was super fast and easy. I'm going to put 4 jacks close to the corners to stabilize it during work times.
> 
> Any help on the noise would be awesome. This was only the second time for me to run it and only the second log to cut.


Hey man. I see this photo online has angle iron where the log sits, but the older pictures I saw were Big square tubing. did yours come with tubing or angle?
http://www.harborfreight.com/http-w...aw-mill-with-280cc-gas-engine-61712-html.html


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## drifterland

Take a look at the harbor freight sawmill photo at that link


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## pidaster

Tubing.


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## drifterland

Who wants to sell me their mill? I will give her a good home.


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## pidaster

I heard harbor freight would like to sell theirs. 


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## drifterland

pidaster said:


> I heard harbor freight would like to sell theirs.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


hahaha. so I have heard. I have two more weeks of hard work and I can place my order


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## pidaster

You could get this one at a steal of a deal. /http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KN3WS3G?pc_redir=1403777536&robot_redir=1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bill Space

Hi,

Well I got the siding on the house done, and finally unloaded the sawmill from my van.

Everything looks good except, I did not get a new blade to replace the one that's on the machine. I will have to call Harbor Freight tomorrow and ask what's up with that?

The powerhead has a couple lifting points which are balanced quite well. I was quite satisfied when I picked it up with chains, using my bucket hooks, that it hung perfectly vertical.










I decided that I cannot put the sawmill together yet, because there's a large cherry tree that I need to cut down in the vicinity. The temporary location of the sawmill will be within 20 feet of where the cherry tree is. I don't want to take a chance on having the tree fall in the wrong direction, and land on the sawmill. While this is very unlikely, since I use a couple chains tied to other trees to direct the fall, along with a center chain attached my tractor pulling in the direction I want to treat the fall. But I met Mr. Murphy once, and learned to respect him!

I'm afraid this cherry tree may be 30 inches in diameter. If so, I guess it might be too much to try to cut it on this mill. In any case there are a few large branches, maybe 14 inches in diameter or so, that I will be able to cut.

Hopefully the one picture I included will be there when I post this...

Bill

PS: The house in the background is my project house, which is next door to our house that has cedar siding on it...which I was applying clear wood finish to...

PS PS: Jesse, did you get your mill yet? Did it have the replacement blade included?


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## pidaster

Mine already had the Lenox blade installed. 


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## Bill Space

Pidaster,

Did you ever find out what that sound was that you were concerned about?

Bill


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## pidaster

I haven't had a chance to get back to it. I will post an update when I find it. I'm guessing it's a bearing and I hope it's not the clutch. It sounded fine without the blade. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## davidnc

Has the HF sawmill been changed and made weaker?

I am looking into picking up a HF sawmill, but noticed that the HF pics do not look like the sawmills pictured on this site.

The HF sawmill pic shows a product with far weaker framing. The link is: http://www.harborfreight.com/http-w...aw-mill-with-280cc-gas-engine-61712-html.html

Has anybody received the most current HF sawmill (showing current pic) and if so, was in constructed like the models shown earlier?


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## pidaster

I recently ordered mine. The picture online is the same one as when I ordered but looks like everybody else's. Can't say if something has possibly changed since then though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Michael W

*Sawmill Construction*

davidnc,

Just ordered the harbor freight sawmill and had the same reservations as you. After reading all the reviews and researching for about a month I decided to pull the trigger, and could not be happier. I am only a hobby sawyer though, so that should go along with this post. To answer your question specifically, I received my sawmill 3 days ago and it is built like the pictures in the posts, not the advertisement. To my surprise it is very well constructed, with rectangular tube steel for the log supports. I always envisioned building a sawmill from scratch, but there is no way I could have built as well and for the cost. The one thing I noticed is that they did not send an extra (Lenox) blade with mine, so don't know if they've discontinued that or not. I did get the mill for the sale price of 1999.99 - discount of 25% with coupon, for total of 1500.00. Ive already done some sawing and I'm very happy with the results. 

Mike


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## Michael W

*Sawmill extension*

Can anyone give me more specifics on ordering an extension kit for the harbor freight sawmill? I know I could probably get the materials and build it, but would just like it to match(anal), don't want the hassle, and don't mind the wait.


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## davidnc

Mike,

Went to order online, but the 25% off coupon was rejected. Also, how was shipping handled? Can it go to the store without a fee?

Is it best to order by phone?

Thanks


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## davidnc

My local stores do not sell the saw and the online rep says that the supper discount coupons (20 or 25%) cannot be used for the product.

I've asked for an escalation since the item is not expressly exempted from the discounts and that many others have gotten the discount.

Let you know how it goes.


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## pidaster

I used coupon 56762840


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bill Space

The Discount coupon can be used if you get lucky. 

It worked for me, then did not work for Jesse (see his posts above). He was able to get the discount after I gave him my order info.

Then someone else, again see posts above, got the discount just like I did, without having to produce anything.

So yes, it IS possible to get the discount on this mill. Mine was ordered about three weeks ago and and arrived about two weeks ago. I still have not got it assembled as other things had higher priority. Today I cut down that large cherry tree that had to come down before I put the mill together, as I was afraid something might go wrong and it might land on the mill if I cut it down after assembling the mill. Turns out it dropped just where I wanted it...

The bad is the tree is rotted inside, how much I don't know yet...

Within the last month at least three of us have bought the HF mill using discount coupons. The shipping was less than $100. I picked mine up at the local terminal, but it would have been delivered for the same price.

It seems like this mill is a really good deal at $1,500 plus tax and shipping...

Good luck and don't give up. They should give you the same deal we got recently.

Bill

PS...The issue was that the HF computer system will not take coupons for purchase of the mill. They have to place the order at the higher discounted price , then the front office has to adjust the price down by $500 (if you are using a 25% off coupon). So in my case the net price was $1,499 plus shipping and tax.


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## davidnc

HF did ask for the order info of someone that got the discount. Can anyone email me their order number info? 

I have to try again tomorrow during normal business hours.


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## Bill Space

It might be better if you got someone else's order info since mine has already been given to them once. 

If no one provides you with their order info I will give you mine. Will need an email address. If you get five posts you can send PMs. 

Keep your chin up. It should work out for you one way or another. 

Can't wait to get mine put together. A cant hook should arrive tomorrow. I need to get that cherry tree I cut down cleaned up before proceeding to put the mill together. (Among other things). Spent four hours on that cleanup this morning. Takes time hauling all the small stuff down to the brush pile. Wish I had a chipper! GLAD I have a tractor with loader and bucket forks!!!

Bill


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## davidnc

Update on using discount. 

Got off the phone with HF, about 3:00pm. Gave her the saw part number and discount coupon. Without missing a beat, she says that the system is not up to handle this, and that she will process it and email me the confirmation. She said that the 25% discount would be applied against the $1999.99 price and mentioned only $6.99 shipping.

Still waiting for the confirmation letter to see if it works out.


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## Michael W

David,

I went the same route, where the rep stated that I would get the 1999.99 price and 25% off. I checked my credit card statement and to my surprise it showed the 1999.99 price. I mentioned that the conversation was recorded, and they said they went back and listened to it and the rep did give the 25%. I did have to call several times to straighten it out but they did credit my credit card with the 500 some odd dollars. It was a little bit of a hassle, but for the price this sawmill is perfect for my application. I think you'll be happy with it.


Mike


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## Michael W

David, 

also if it helps you can reference my order# 2832711.

Bill,

Do you have any information on the extension kit, or if they even sell one?

Thanks,

Mike


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## Bill Space

I was surprised that within a couple hours I had an email confirmation of the price reduction. It listed the prices as 1,999 but then showed the 500 dollars deduction so the price ended up being $1,500 plus tax and shipping. Yes, within a couple hours I got the confirmation and that was the amount charged to my credit card.

Again, I was totally surprised by getting the confirmation that quickly.

David, I am glad you got the mill ordered. It does seem like a good deal at that price. I am judging from what I have seen after taking everything out of the crate.

Michael, I don't have any info on ordering the rail extension parts but if it is possible I would like to do it I think... Still have to get mine set up and cutting! Can't wait!

Bill


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## davidnc

Update on discount and order for anyone looking into getting the sawmill.

I received the confirmation order with proper shipping (about $96) and no discount. Called HF and they will credit the $500 within 24 hrs. The unit is scheduled to ship out tomorrow and I was given a tracking number.

They offered an extended warranty for $260 for 2 years. Has anybody gotten this?

Also, joined the inside chat group for $30, but get a $10 coupon back. Thought the least I could do for their honoring the 25% discount.

I'll close the loop when the credit is made.


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## pidaster

I did the extended warranty on mine. I didn't think it was too bad of a deal.


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## Bill Space

Hi,

As a matter of experience I don't buy extended warranties. Along time ago I bought one or two and never needed them. After that I made a conscious decision never to buy another one. My logic was, if I add up the cost of all the warranties that I turn down I will eventually come out ahead even if I have to pay for arepair on something. 

My guess is that I've probably saved between $1000 and $2000 over the years by turning down extended warranties. And I can't remember ever needing one. Probably more than that if you include extended warranties offered for our vehicles which I turned down and would not have used since there were no issues with either vehicle. 

So in my case it was an automatic "no thanks" when the extended warranty was offered on the bandsaw mill.

Bill


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## Bill Space

pidaster said:


> I did the extended warranty on mine. I didn't think it was too bad of a deal.


And it sounds like a good move on your part! :thumbsup:

With that sound you cannot put your finger on...you will at minimum get free repair parts. OR a new mill if they cannot fix it???

Very comforting...


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## davidnc

Update: 

1. The mill arrived today and I'm unpacking it.
2. Received the 25% discount.
3. I have time to decide on the extended warranty.

David


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## Bill Space

Great news that you got yours David,

Finally got mine put together and cut five logs into cants and one curved one into 3" slabs. 

Worked wonderfully. Amazingly good. Blade that came with it cut smooth as I could have dreamed for. All wood was black cherry. 

Not sure who made the blade but I am a happy camper. Need to make a better setup for support of the mill though. It is now sitting on some blocks with wooden shims as needed, and easy to knock out of wack when loading logs. 

Got a cant hook from northern tool...but it is only good for up to a 12" or 14" inch log. Need to get a larger one. I can see that cant hooks are indispensable. 

For $1,500 plus tax and under $100 shipping this mill is an unbeatable value!

I changed the oil after the first three hours of break in on the engine, before cutting anything, and will start using synthetic motor oil at the next oil change which I will do shortly. 

Will post a picture later...or two if I can make that happen. Failed previously...

Enjoy!

Bill


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## Bill Space

Bent log piece turned into slabs as cutting it square would have resulted in a very small square piece:









Cants seen in background. Still can not figure out how to get more than one picture in a post...

Self built house way in the background, build alone from the ground up...do not have that energy anymore!!!!

Amazing how well this little sawmill works!

Bill

Sent from my iPad


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## Bill Space

One more photo...









This is my project house. Bought it for control of the property. Be a couple years before I get it in shape to rent or spin off with a half acre as a sale.

Edit: Norther Tool cant hook in the foreground.


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## drifterland

Excellent!


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## Michael W

Bill,

Awesome pics. I too am happy with my Harbor Freight Sawmill. I bought some casters and put the whole sawmill on wheels so that I can move it inside during bad weather. I will still elevate and level when I get it in position. Also noticed your comment about lack the energy to build a house by yourself again. I so agree with you. The first time around I did everything myself, but just hired to have a new roof put on my house. Anyway enjoy reading the posts, and will add that before I bought my sawmill, I researched and read a lot of info on the mill. I read a few times where people have sawed into the clamp handle, well even with that in the back of my mind, I have sawed into it already. Ha Ha


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## Bill Space

I am glad we are keeping this thread alive for those who may follow us in possibly buying one of these mills. :thumbsup:

Great value for the money... At least at the $1,500 or so price point!

Glad I bought one!


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## MaxSeabeck

I think we need to figure out how to talk about the mill in code so all the input on how much everyone likes it isn't so obvious, otherwise HF will find it and jack up the price ;-)


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## jonathan0908

So Excellent!
______________
jet table saws


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## jimmy mc

MaxSeabeck said:


> I think we need to figure out how to talk about the mill in code so all the input on how much everyone likes it isn't so obvious, otherwise HF will find it and jack up the price ;-)


 I got a new sale flyer from them and the 20% off coupon list the sawmill as one of the things you can not use it for. I knew that was going to happen. Even at $1999.00 it is a good buy.
As most of the people that bought one. I wish I had one years ago. I have not bought one piece of lumber after mine arrived.
If any of you owners get the chance to purchase the Harbor Freight 420cc engine. It is a great improvement over the 7HP engine. I bought one for the towable backhoe I built and found it to be to large. So switched it with the mill engine and both work better. One other thing. The 420 is electric start.

Jimmy


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## Michael W

Jimmy,

Does the 420cc bolt right up, or are there modifications that need to be made?

Thanks.


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## Steve Neul

I'm glad to see the HF saw works alright. I read earlier posts folks screaming about the saw being underpowered. I have 10 acres of oak,ash,hickory and aeromatic cedar and been thinking I should have mill. I don't plan to go into the lumber business so if the saw is underpowered that's alright. I just want to cut the wood for my own use. Right now I have two hickory trees that have just died and need to be cut down. One is about 10" in diameter and the other is probably 14".

What is the best way I could cut the logs and store them until I get a saw.


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## Bill Space

Steve Neul said:


> I'm glad to see the HF saw works alright. I read earlier posts folks screaming about the saw being underpowered.


 Steve, I read those people commenting about this saw being underpowered too. It impressed me that just about everyone that complained about the saw's power did not own one nor had used one.

Jimmy, I too am curious as to whether that larger engine is a direct bolt up. Let us know when you get a chance. 

Steve, I am no expert by any means, but as far as those logs go I would cut them to the length needed, paint the ends with latex paint and store them on something to keep them off the ground a bit. I do not think they need to be under cover. 

At $2k the mill is still a good deal compared to others bought new. Glad I got it for what I did as I do not think I would have paid more, as I do not expect to expect to use it that much. But who knows?

I have some large cherry logs to cut and will report back on how the saw does with those (24" + diameter. )

Bill


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## Alchymist

Who needs a band saw mill?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nP4bn0W1fMk


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## Steve Neul

What lengths should the logs be to comfortably operate on the saw? I went to HF website and they just give the diameter. 

I thought perhaps I would stack the logs on cinder blocks and cover with polyethylene plastic. I have a bunch of extra latex paint I could coat the ends with. I thought I might have to get some anchor seal or something similar for the ends.


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## jimmy mc

Michael W said:


> Jimmy,
> 
> Does the 420cc bolt right up, or are there modifications that need to be made?
> 
> Thanks.


 The engine is wider and I had to remove some metal from the cross beam. That is the only thing that needed done. Well you will need a place to mount a battery.


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## jimmy mc

Steve Neul said:


> What lengths should the logs be to comfortably operate on the saw? I went to HF website and they just give the diameter.


Steve, before I added the extension, the longest log I could saw was 9' 6".

To anyone looking to buy one of these saws. The engine it comes with has plenty of power. I cut Oak, Hickory, gum, poplar, black locust, Red cedar, Ash, Maple, and some I didn't even know what it was. The stock engine had no problem doing the job.

I bought a 420cc for a backhoe I was building. It was to much for the pump and caused the hydrolics to be to fast, and jumpy for me. So I switched the engine with the one on the mill. Both work better.


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## pidaster

I finally brought mine home from the farm so I could check it out more. The noise I had isn't there anymore. I did find that somehow the carriage/blade assembly had gotten out of alignment. It was half and inch off from one side of the blade to the other. I remember seeing a plank of wood that had an angle to it and I thought I didn't have the cant straight. Not sure what shifted but now the saw is on the trailer and it's all squared back up. I also have to fix the track a bit as one of my braces is welded on just a fraction too low. A small bit of grinding on the mount should let it flush back up with the other track.
Now to make a log loading mechanism and start cutting again.


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## Wayne Dyas

jimmy mc said:


> Steve, before I added the extension, the longest log I could saw was 9' 6".
> 
> To anyone looking to buy one of these saws. The engine it comes with has plenty of power. I cut Oak, Hickory, gum, poplar, black locust, Red cedar, Ash, Maple, and some I didn't even know what it was. The stock engine had no problem doing the job.
> 
> I bought a 420cc for a backhoe I was building. It was to much for the pump and caused the hydrolics to be to fast, and jumpy for me. So I switched the engine with the one on the mill. Both work better.


Bump


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## Michael W

Jimmy,

Is there a chance you could post some pictures of the modification you made to your saw for the 420cc engine and battery?

Thanks,

Mike


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## Bill Space

Jimmy,

Thanks for the updates!

Means a lot to us who have this mill as well as to those who will find this thread in the future!

Bill


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## Bill Space

jimmy mc said:


> I got a new sale flyer from them and the 20% off coupon list the sawmill as one of the things you can not use it for. I knew that was going to happen.
> 
> Jimmy


Just thinking out loud, but perhaps if anyone wants to get one now they might be able to use a previous coupon that has not expired yet. 

Worth a try if you are ready to
Pull the trigger. I would try if I were at that point now. 

Glad I do not need too!

Bill


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## bacononeactual

I have been following this thread based on my interest in these mills. I would like to do exactly what you are suggesting and use a coupon that has worked. Does anybody have one that I could use that they would be willing to pdf to me?


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## Bill Space

All you need is the coupon number. I will check the one I used and post the number if it is still valid. 

You need five posts here before you can send PMs, otherwise I would ask you to PM me your email address. 

Hope you get a valid coupon and get your mill. Would be worth using a 20% of coupon if they will take it as the window for using these coupons is rapidly closing (if not already shut). 

Bill


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## Bill Space

bacononeactual said:


> I have been following this thread based on my interest in these mills. I would like to do exactly what you are suggesting and use a coupon that has worked. Does anybody have one that I could use that they would be willing to pdf to me?



Coupon number: 58533211

Valid thru 10/22/14

See attached image(hopefully)













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## Bill Space

I decided to declare today a play day. Not an easy day but one doing something I felt like doing rather than more work-related things.

I had a short piece of cherry about 5 foot long just under 27 inches in diameter. I wanted to cut it into slabs about 2.5 inches thick. The base of the tree was rotted and this piece was what was left after I cut most if the rotted part off. 









When I assembled the mill I drilled two new holes and raised the push bar a couple inches to gain elevation of the sawmill head. Glad I did because I needed all the height I could get (and more). In order to use that additional height I had to remove the heat shield from the muffler. 









More to follow. I want to see if these two photos show up since I have not been able to post more than one photo in a post, but this time I am using the iPhone app. 


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## Bill Space

Wow, finally multiple photos show up!!!

Two issues showed up right away when dealing with this large log( for this 20" rated mill). The little arms holding then blade guide bearings are 20" apart. That means you cannot cut much off a large log before the bearings hit the log and stop movement of the saw head. A little chainsaw work helped:









And the log supports on the right side hold the log too far to the left, in relationship to the right side guide bearing support bracket, which causes the log to be shifter further to the left, so it strikes the left side bearing bracket before it really should. 









Not sure if the above picture shows this or not. I think I am going to weld on extra holders that will allow the log supports to be positioned so they are in alignment with the blade guide bearing brackets, at some point. 

It was a bit of a struggle dealing with this log by myself. Glad my hard working buddy was there to help. I need a larger can't hook. What I have is too small for logs this size. 









I managed to rotate it and ended up with a short cant 20" on a side. 









Another issue was that the left side screw handle clamp can not be used in large cants (20") because the screw/handle sticks out and blocks the carriage travel. I used the bottom half and rotated it up enough to hold the cant somewhat. 

There was still some rot in some of the slabs but I am pretty satisfied with today's exercise (both the sawing part and the sweating part. Third tee shirt by 3 PM). 












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## Bill Space

I was able to put the first two slabs that I cut off the log initially back on the mill and turn them into usable slabs as well. 









Don't know whose blade HF put on the mill but the cut finish is very respectable:









Thought this may be of interest to new owners like me or to those considering a purchase. For hobby use you can not beat this mill for the price! I am a happy camper. 


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## Bill Space

Forgot to post this picture. This shows the maximum height gain you can get by drilling new holes in the uprights for the push bar. 

The height adjustment handle hits just when the height limit is reached. 










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## bacononeactual

Thanks, Bill. I appreciate the post.

Thanks to all... very helpful thread.


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## Michael W

Bill,

Thank you for all the pictures and information. Much Appreciated.


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## gsd2053

Was the shaft for the drive the same size?
I am waiting for mine to arrive
PIC's Pic's Pic's



jimmy mc said:


> Steve, before I added the extension, the longest log I could saw was 9' 6".
> 
> To anyone looking to buy one of these saws. The engine it comes with has plenty of power. I cut Oak, Hickory, gum, poplar, black locust, Red cedar, Ash, Maple, and some I didn't even know what it was. The stock engine had no problem doing the job.
> 
> I bought a 420cc for a backhoe I was building. It was to much for the pump and caused the hydrolics to be to fast, and jumpy for me. So I switched the engine with the one on the mill. Both work better.


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## jimmy mc

gsd2053 said:


> Was the shaft for the drive the same size?
> I am waiting for mine to arrive
> PIC's Pic's Pic's


The 420 has the same size shaft as the engine that comes on the mill. The engine is a lot bigger. I had to modify the engine mount in order to bolt it on.
I will try and takes some pictures and post them for you.


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## bacononeactual

Well, took the plunge and placed my order. Does anyone know the part numbers that I need to order the extension rails? I'd like to just go ahead and get that on order now also, since I know that it can take some time.


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## panther49

bacononeactual said:


> Well, took the plunge and placed my order. Does anyone know the part numbers that I need to order the extension rails? I'd like to just go ahead and get that on order now also, since I know that it can take some time.


Hi:
The parts numbers are in the documents you will receive with the mill.
A whole extension with the stops and everything runs about $ 350.00 delivered and takes forever. I waited like 3-4 months.
You can cut about 15'-4" long boards with the extensions, not quite 16'.
You have to order by phone "special orders".
They are extremely courteous and really try to help (I recommend that you treat them likewise:smile but these parts come from China and probably there is no profit selling them. They are unfamiliar with what you want because evidently not too many people order this. So these delays are beyond the control of the people that take your order. I even got the lady to e-mail me with progress on the order and she did but pleaded with her to help me. It paid off. Be patient. Harbor freight used to have an item number for the whole extension kit but they no longer offer it and nobody knows what you are taking about.
Make a list of what you need and check it and recheck it because everything comes from China and if you miss one little part, you'll have to go through the waiting again.
Otherwise you would have to fabricate and improvise and to begin with, the two long angle steel beds are METRIC and I could not find anything suitable and as inexpensive as the original stuff.
I'm glad I went this route.
Good luck!!


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## Steve Neul

I'm still on the fence trying to decide on getting a mill especially since I've never seen one in use. My property has a great deal of white oak. I think I would be inclined to want to do radial quartersawing. Does anyone think the saw is capable. I'm also wondering how to rotate the log and reset the cuts for each angle. If the boards ended up somewhat pie shaped I could surface it flat in my planer. I have a newman 24" planer.


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## Tom the Sawyer

Steve,

You definitely should visit a mill in action before you contemplate making a purchase, it isn't for everyone - especially a manual mill. 

Radial quarter-sawing is not a realistic option for a portable bandsaw mill, plus it is extremely wasteful. There are methods of sawing suitable for a bandsaw mill that can yield a high percentage of quarter-sawn lumber, some are more labor intensive, others less so.


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## Steve Neul

Tom the Sawyer said:


> Steve,
> 
> You definitely should visit a mill in action before you contemplate making a purchase, it isn't for everyone - especially a manual mill.
> 
> Radial quarter-sawing is not a realistic option for a portable bandsaw mill, plus it is extremely wasteful. There are methods of sawing suitable for a bandsaw mill that can yield a high percentage of quarter-sawn lumber, some are more labor intensive, others less so.


I had a funny feeling the blade would drift trying to radial saw a log with the HF band mill but a radial cut would yield the best quartersawn wood. The main reason I wanted the quartersawn wood is I'm trying to get a business going making antique reproductions and with a drought every year here in Texas I'm having quite a few trees dieing. Right now I have a white oak tree that is about 18" in diameter that died a couple of weeks ago. It's has about 20' of trunk before it branches out. I realize sawing wood is a lot of work but I've been freehand ripping some short logs with a chain saw. The band mill, even HF has to be a major upgrade.


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## toddheath2005

HEY ALL,,,

It's been awhile since I've posted anything on here. I have been following all the comments and posts and I am extremely happy to see this thread stay alive!! I haven't been sawing anything lately and it makes me drop my head every time I drive to work and see all the trees being ripped outta the ground to make way to build more housing additions. I work in the aircraft industry and its in a boom cycle (commercial airplanes) so seem to be living in the factory. At the moment I am building a shipping crate for the mill. Seems my wife decided that I haven't made enough time for her and well ya life happens&#55357;&#56851; the last real project I used the mill for was a geodesic dome greenhouse I just built. It is just shy of 30' while I didn't mill the wood for it that was my original plan but I did build it from shipping skids(pallets) and with over 400 slats to cut with a angle on each one. I started with the table saw and that was taking forever and alot of electricity. So it didn't take long to decide to use the mill to rip the slats. I made a jig and could rip thru the 2x6 which made 2 slats per board. Anyhow short story long I made 300 slats in less time with the mill than probably 100 with my table saw. And used minimum fuel versus all the electric that my big table saw used. Not to mention way less noise!! I just wanted to say you can do alot more with the mill than rip logs down to size. I would like to have a lathe setup like woodmizer has. Doesn't seem like it would be to difficult to make one that sat on the tracks you would use an separate motor. Anyhow when all the dust settles and I get moved I think I will set up the mill this time with 2 20' pieces of angle instead of the individual track pieces. Haven't decided if I will weld the bunks on or drill and bolt them. Way back 5yrs ago when I bought mine it was missing the log dog and so HF sent me one but when it arrived there was the track extension kit with it plus 6 extra bunks. There was a difference in the track size. Almost like they changed it during the 6 months it took to get it. I had already made my own log dog because I didn't wanna wait to use the mill. So I have plenty of bunks to make a 30' track if I wanted to but in Kansas there really isn't any need to have it that long. I think with one piece track it would be easier to level and mount on a trailer when the time comes. Anyhow keep up all the good conversations and don't let any one persuade you into buying a more expensive mill unless its needed for the hydraulics or need to mill bigger. This mill has been the best investment I have ever made. I have abused it for 5yrs and other than wear parts no major failures. The only bad is I bought mine when they first came out and with a coupon paid almost twice what they are now but would do it again in a heartbeat!!! Thanks all for the advice and sharing your adventures in sawing&#55357;&#56842;


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## georger

I recently ordered one of these, I tried the coupon thing but didn't work been wanting one for a while so I ordered it anyway, just ordered 10 blade from cooks, seems to be one of the preferred suppliers, kasco and woodmiser I saw mentioned too but at $16 a pop not much to be picky about I guess.
I am curious if any have a preference towards a certain blade and why that is also any tips or tricks, I have a lot of cottonwood that I cut recently I mainly bought it with the intent to cut it for a plywood/osb substitute, floors, sheating roofing etc, even considering to use it instead of drywall as paneling, school of thought on this wood go from worthless to good for framing not loadbering, furniture pieces, figured it will do just fine for subfloors, roof deck etc
that being said a bit off topic but it is a woodworking question, what would be a good way to join such boards, leave them rough, plane, T&G rabit.
Woodworking is the last on my skill list, thou I am mechanical inclined and have various experiences that am pretty confident just not familiar, for example I see T&G as a popular choice, I saw 2 main ways of doing it table saw or router, but most examples were small furniture pieces, what do you do with a 10 ft board is there a better way to do it , are you guys aware of other tools I should consider in conjunction with this project? I figured I should look for a jointer/ planer, I have an old table say, some circular ones, I was hoping there would be a smart way to cut t&g maybe HF has something for it

any input much apreciated


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## ryan50hrl

If your cutting a lot of t&g, a shaper is the way to go. For small quantities a router and table would work. This is of course after jointing and planing the boards


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## georger

wow that was quick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wc0N6m4RNdY just watched this lots of machinery, I am looking for a more modest operation, I like to have my own tools and I cant afford all of them hence the HF mill versus a WM for example I am hoping to have enough left for a jointer/ planer router.

so you recon I should plane them first, even for subflooring? normally they use ugly osb there these days, I was considering just using it rough cut if anything for roof decking and sheating I was considering a rabit cut or T&G so it wont be so drafty.

as for interior paneling or if I get into hardwood floors, granted I see the use of a planer.

I'll have to look up a shaper, like I said I am not familiar if you are aware of such tools for a small scale operation please name a few


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## ryan50hrl

So ugly osb is very uniform in thickness...if your wood is not, then anything you put on top of it wont be flat. 

Shapers are like big routers mounted in tables. They use cutters instead of bits, but the principal is the same. Good used ones can be had for 200 or so.


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## georger

I see, so a jointer should be the next tool I need not so much for looks or finishing but to make sure the pieces are flat, to the best of my knowledge a planer is a double sided jointer making the piece parallel, and uniform from one to the other, goes to show how much I know

I would be inclined to think that coming off the mill they would be pretty uniform, guess user error and especially inexperience, uneven drying rates vould make this not the case, thanks

guess I better read into the powertoos threads then


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## ryan50hrl

Coming off the mill they will not be uniform enough to use as flooring. A planer and jointer while having some similarities, do very different functions. A jointer makes flat sides, but not parallel. A planer makes parallel sides but not flat. You can straighten an edge using a straight line ripping jig if you have a table saw, If that's the case then the planer would be more important.


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## georger

ok so I may need some clarification here. I have been looking at these tools and what they do.
a jointer gives you a flat edge, a planer gives you a uniform thickness, feel free to correct me at any point, say I am working with 3/4 inch 10 ft long boards, from what I gather a running through a jointer wont do much I expect them to flex a bit regardless they wont stay flat like a steel beam, or maybe I am wrong, a thickness planing would get all the boards same thickness, they lay on joists anyhow and as we all know those are not straight either, however if I go to T&G I can see how not running them through a jointer could give me hell
http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bar/4718231417.html is this the kind of shaper I should look into? looks like a router table, guess the difference is in the cuters


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## ryan50hrl

You're pretty close to right on. The issue is you need straight edges to run through the shaper to put that tongue and groove on, otherwise your boards won't line up. Typical milling sequence would be as follows.

1. Mill logs on band mill. 
2. Dry lumber 
3. Joint 1 edge (straight line rip jig and table saw could be substituted) 
3. Joint one face ( for subflooring you could probably skip this)
4. Rip all boards to uniform width
5. Plane both sides to uniform thickness
6. Use shaper for t&g


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## georger

sounds like a bit more than I bargained for, honestly I haven't really thought this through, I had to cut those trees down to clear the lot and thou some were not in the way they were close to where the house will end up they were about as big as they get and since they are short lived I figured I best deal with them now than risk them falling on the house or equipment down the road, one fell down last summer in nice weather no wind, top just came down making lots of noise luckily we weren't anywhere near.plus the understorry is full of oak maple elm, that were hindof being shaded so I am hoping they will take off now.

so now I have a huge amount of these trunks, they are not much good for anything else, some well over 40" figured I'll use them for something, I've done drywall work before and I hate it so reckoned I save some nicer ones for paneling I'd rather plane boards than mud and sand drywall, nor am I a big fan of composites lots of glue and a huge industrial plant, I'd rather not support the osb/drywall industries, not to mention they are shipped over large distances, not a fan either, these are there on site and given the possibilities t purchase equipment will likely yeld a superior product even thou it is made of a low desired wood species

just thinking out loud, I noticed 12" jointers are about as big as they get I think I saw some 14" most are 6", I'm thinking step 4 should be second, after milling, granted I can get 20" boards with this mill but good luck jointing them that wide, I read somewhere about tension in the wood fibers how one board may be dried straight than after ripping it in half may twist.

guess where I am hinting at it sounds like a good Ideea to purchase a jointer and planer prior to milling the logs and depending on what size I end up with that is the size I should mill them to in the first place, maybe a little over to allow for shrinkage and trimming, I always wondered why would anyone cut a 20 inch board in half lengthwise, just got my answer, it would be too wide to further work

so say for 3/4 subfloors and 12 inch jointer and planer, I should probably mill 7/8 thick aprox 13" wide let them dry rather than milling as wide of a board as I can than after they dry cut them to maximum width the jointer will take, I hear that will release tensions in the board and the results are anyone guess

thanks for the input so far I'm hoping to come up with a good game plan for this project, I've done many things myself but logs to finished house I am a bit out of my lead and any advice helps


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## ryan50hrl

You can't rip boards on a table saw until you have a straight edge. So jointing or straight line ripping had to be done first. And you can't do any of these things until the lumber is dried first.


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## woodnthings

*most flooring is narrow boards...*

That's because it can utilize what would ordinarily be :"useless" material, too narrow for much else. There's another less obvious reason, which is it won't cup or warp as readily as a wide plank. Wide plank floor has to be totally dry and may be ripped on a straight line rip saw with a track feeder rather than a table saw or jointed.
The rip saw is self feeding and runs along at such a clip it's hard to gather up the pieces quickly enough, if they are short.

The other issue is when running tongue and groove, the pieces must be of uniform thickness or the joints won't align. The edges should be profiled off the same face, top or bottom to maintain the proper dimension. 
A double sided planer would probably be advised.... :blink:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Double_Sided_Planers_Versus_Carpet_Feed_Planers.html


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## georger

I like where this is going, I read through the thread but I haven't seen any such procedures being discussed nor did I know where else to look and this is a hobby mill and I am not even an amateur yet, hope this comes in handy to other tinkers considering the though.

to be clear my point was that I should probably mill the rough cut lumber just a tad larger than what the final board will be, to allow for shrinking, jointing etc, milling 20" wide boards although the mill is capable would not make much sense if the planer can only handle 12", if I dry them 20" wide I read somewhere that when straight line ripping down to 12" tensions in the wood may be released and cause the new cut board to continue warping, after I planed it, T&G etc, or so I read, maybe I worded it wrong in previous posts I am not familiar with the woodworking slang yet.

as for most flooring being narrow, I noticed most hardwood floors are about 3" or so, I havent gotten to that chapter yet, I am looking to use this lumber pretty much everywhere 4'x8' osb sheets are normally used in new construction and initially I haven't given board width any thought figured it could vary, doesn't matter the wider the better less joints, I now realize that I am not limited by the mills capabilities but rather the jointer/planer sure there may be some that can handle 20" boards but those will probably be out of my range ( I think ) I see several 12"1/2 used on CL chances are that's what I'll end up with so just throwing numbers out there, that be the case considering I am planing to end up with 12" wide boards I should rough cut them about 13" so when I go to straight rip I only remove a small amount or I could just plane them a bit, had I dried them 20"wide I would be ripping them dam near in half probably not a good Idea and that's my understanding of it so far, maybe it doesn't matter.

This is cotton wood I am talking about I hear it shrinks considerably, maybe someone who has cut it can elaborate, guess I am trying to come up with a plan rather than just milling boards and figure it out later, the mill is capable of 20" cuts and I have lots of logs twice that size so getting 20" cants is not an issue, but using 20" boards is starting to sound like it, maybe I should aim for 10" wide board slice the 20" in half while wet and let them dry I end up with whatever size they shrink to than plain and size them uniformly, that is kindof where I am hinting at, mill them not much larger than the intended finished product?


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## georger

This just dawned on me, I could probably straight line rip them right on the sawmill after they dried, clamp a hand full of them securely to the track on the narrow side and get a straight line, flip them and do the other side that takes care of the edge, straight and paralel just as I mentioneD i ASSUME i WOULD BEST REMOVE ONLY AS MUCH AS NEEDED TO GET A STRAIGHT EDGE RATHER THAN RIPING THEM IN HALF AFTER THEY Dried
For subflooring unless I chose to T&G guess it would not matter if they are a bit twisted they would have to be planed to the same thickness thou, maybe a rabet joint would be to consider here. I am not trying to cut corners but I would like to keep things simple after all I am just an amateur and unlikely I will keep doing this kind of work after this project, keeping the process minimal is a goal for me, 

this should work for exterior and roof sheating I am thinking, do you think this could work?

20" wide X 3/4 thick are simply too large for a hobbyist to run through a jointer, T&G etc I need a simple plan, but if it don't work its no good, I recon I stick with a 10"-12" width 8' long, I precut my logs to 9'2" but they will shrink some and the ends will need trimmed anyhow, double sided planer would be the with limiting factor and a shaper to do a rabet joint, or ship lap paneling I believe is a proper term

this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz_-92jKy9E may explain better what I hope to accomplish I want to mill these logs into such pieces to use for subfloors, exterior and roofing sheating also instead of drywall


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## Bill Space

Hi, 

The following thread addresses many of the issues involved with your proposed undertaking. It may be worth a look...

It has been a while but I think the OP in this thread finally realized it would be a much bigger project than he realized at first. 

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?222312-Making-my-own-oak-flooring-is-this-a-horrible-idea

Also, you mention having large diameter logs, as large as 40" ? I have found that with anything over about 24"( maybe less, do not remember exactly) is a pain to deal with, as they need trimmed lengthwise to get the mill to pass over them, even to take a relatively thin slice off the top. And you need a tractor, skid steer or some way to handle them, especially if working alone, and...., and...

Please cut and paste the above link into you browser if it does not turn out clickable. I tried...😳

Bill


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## georger

*I apreciate the link*

I'll have a look at it, any direction counts, thou I am not a woodworker, I am an avid tinker and major diy you name it I probably done it, I can tell you this much without proper planning any project can be a disaster, like the cookies I tried to bake couple nights ago.
Some of these things I do out of principal not necessarily that they make sense, I had my doubts about this but I have the material, an affordable mill is available why bother ordering osb and have it shipped from Canada, even thou an osb subfloor may have cost about $600, in the long run by the time you add sheating and roofing the mill is paid for, just my labor is the cost, the tractor I already have so that is not part of the equation, it has already paid for itself clearing the land and I still need it to dig a basement

I would cut my framing lumber with it too, the issue with that is that I don't have many large good trees, I have one large red oak I could get some beams out of, but the joists/rafters, I don't believe I have enough good trees on 7 acres to make them all, it almost looks like it has been previously logged they took the good stuff some 40 years ago, or maybe its the variety in my area since both my lots have small oaks and maples and elms, the oaks are all pin oaks, good for strength but few over a foot wide, maples are mostly silver, kind of soft, I seen a few black and sugar thou they are mostly split maples trunks are not that wide to get 2x12, maybe 2x10 and 2 or 3 per section, I'm still having a hard time telling them apart, elms are mostly small and about the strength of silver maple last I looked into, I have sycamores a tulip poplar, these aren't particularly large nor super strong, 
the other issues with that is the local ordinance, yeah them guys, building inspector is the best but he's got rules to live by too, and when you get into loadbearing structural members lumber needs to be graded to meet code, that is a bit too much, at this point its not diy if you have to contract someone to certify you done a good job cutting dimensional lumber
now the cotton woods were everywhere and huge some took 3 people to hug them I only cleared 1 acre and the pile in over 6 ft high 20 ft deep all cut to 9ft 2in long, that's only 5 trees, I have 2 more on the ground I have to make time to stack and 2 more split ones standing those are the largest, I'm scared of them each trunk take 3 people to hug them they have 2 each still standing, one had a 3rd dead trunk that I cut , these wont get much bigger and at this point they are due any day to fall over


----------



## georger

*getting the full picture by now*

after reading the suggested post, I can see how it may get complicated, thou I am not talking about finished floors, yet.
very good pointers however, I have been checking CL for tools, on several occasion in the past, looks like most jointers are 6 inch wide, saw a couple 8 inchers one reasonably priced at $350, granted I expect any used tool to require some tweaking,
there was a 10-12" as part of a 5k package and an old 20 inch cool tool but for the asking price of $4500, that is getting out of hand for subflooring and sheeting.
looks like the jointer will be the limiting factor deciding what width board to aim for, planers are widely available in 12 inch fairly cheaply, I'm sure you get what you pay for thou some deals can be found,
considering the application I am inclined to aim for as wide boards as possible, less joinery, 

now I know this is getting a bit off topic but all this talk gave me an Idea ( not good ) to improve the mill, I understand the rough boards will vary in width, if nothing else user error especially a newbie, these mills are not the best, drying irregularities etc.

What I am considering doing, instead relying on the ruler indicator to set the cut depth, I am contemplating making a roller guide of some sort attached to the saw head with a caster to roll over the previous cut, the idea is to set this guide once and duplicate each cut by resting the saw head on the guide than locking it down taking the human error out of lowering the cutting head

have any of you attempted such a rig , the idea is similar to the Alaskan chainsaw mill riding on the previous cut, or maybe a simple template scrap board and mark my cuts with a pencil on the log, follow them to set the saw, rather than the ruler indicator I guess my first priority is to be as consistent as possible, and if I don't have too much distortion during drying that would make the whole process easier, I can see how human error alone could give you boards that vary 1/8" easy

any thought on consistent rough cuts, jigs/techniques ?


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## georger

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tlj4ZoqVFtk

this is an idea, skip to 2:00, the video is long and the setup is unnecessarily complicated but on the sawmill that cuts the first plank they have these 2 square tubing that brings the plank back, I am considering something similar attached to the cutting head for a different purpose, if I set that tube say 7/8 taller than the blade I can use it as a guide to lower the cutting head until it rests on the previous cut lock it down and make my cut as it tilts out of the way, pay no never mind to the depth ruler, effectively taking human error out of the way, something like that will probably go a long way cutting consistent thickness boards rather than setting the saw head by hand .

I am an avid bow hunter and if any of you tried it you'll know consistency is key to accuracy and human error is the major factor between a bulls eye and missing the target all together.

any other ideas? guess I'll have a look at some higher end saw mills see how they do it, I wonder if the woodmiser guy follow a ruler, granted some a microchip controled


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## Bill Space

For board thickness I just count the number of turns of the elevation crank handle. Fractions of a turn may be needed,but that is no big deal. You just remember where the handle was and crank the the required number of turns. Make a mark on the vertical post, turn the crank handle ten times, mark the post again, then measure between the marks and divide by ten. This will tell you the amount of movement per turn of the handle. . 

The relationship between the number of turns of the crank handle and the movement of the saw blade is linear over the length of the screw. You may not get each plank exactly the same but you will be very close. I have a planer so do not need exact duplication of thickness of each plank as I can make that happen later as needed. 

Bill


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## georger

ok than on to my next dilemma
I know wood shrinks as it dries, no secret there so I looked up the rates to figure out what to expect, I am definitely compulsive no doubt, here's what I found :
*Shrinkage:* Radial:3.9 %, Tangential: 9.2%, Volumetric: 13.9%, T/R Ratio: 2.4
whoa more than 2 to 1, than I dug some more and depending on where the board would come from it will cup in all sorts of ways http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tricks/how-to-calculate-wood-shrinkage-and-expansion interesting reading.
If I plane saw these the top board will shrink twice more in width, than the plank in the center, viceversa for depth, I will end up with all sorts of shapes and sizes.
I understand conventionally you cut them large enough so you can joint and plane the nuts off it later, I may quit now if I have to do that, so quarter sawn it looks like if I want to end up with consistent (or best I can) width boards
now quarter sawn the thickness of the board 3/4 for example in the final form, is the tangential dimension, right? 9.2%, recon I'll be planing 1/16 ? ( minimum ) from each side so that is 7/8" dry? that adds up to 0.95" wet rough sawn am I doing this right, I saw some threads were suggesting 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" as a general rule, that sounds like a lot of jointing/planing better safe than sorry but that is a lot of work and very discouraging.

I am hoping by quarter sawing the final boards will shrink in a similar manner, where flat sawing is anyone's guess, plus they say it's more stable. can anyone look at my calculations? make a sugestion


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## Bill Space

Georger,

I am not sure Quarter sawing is practical with the HF mill. 

I do not have answers to you questions about shrinkage, but do think you will have a better understanding of what is attainable with the HF mill, from a practical aspect, after you saw a couple logs. Once you see what is possible to do in your particular situation you will be able to focus on questions that are most relevent to you. 

Quarter sawing is possible, I suppose, and I would like to try it sometime myself. At this point not sure how I would hold the log pieces to make it happen. Seems like it would take a lot of effort. 

Maybe someone who has done it will chime in...

Bill


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## Steve Neul

Forgive me, I'm too lazy to read this 20 page thread. Can the HF mill be rigged to do re-sawing and if so how much material would it remove in the cut?


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## georger

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O01vkDEMoyY

here is an idea of what would take, granted he is using a fancy mill it would be a lot more labor intensive on a basic mill.

I am at war with myself trying to keep this project simple and getting it done or do a good job, there doesn't seem to be a in between,

if plain sawn in theory the top boards will shrink in width twice more than the boards in the middle of the log which essentially are quarter sawn vise versa for the thickness this is specific to the cottonwood I plan to cut.

initially I planed to just saw some boards and use them as rough sawn, than working them further was brought up which would produce a better product, the idea for quarter sawing was that my boards would be more consistent after drying making the rest of the process easier, guess I am taking this a bit beyond a hobby I bought mine for a purpose.

as for resawing I don't see why not, I don't have mine yet I guess it would all depend on how low the log locks can go, or worst case you might have to shim up your work piece


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## Fastback

I have been reading some of the post on this thread, very interesting stuff. Looking at the HF mill I think it is very hard to beat the price. I know, I am in the process of building one. Even by doing all my own fabricating and machining I believe my mill will be at around $1,000. Even at double the dollars the HF price it is hard to beat. I guess the main difference on mine is I plan on starting out with the 420 cc engine. I like the idea of electric start.

Keep up the post they are very helpful.

Paul


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## georger

*I have considered building one*

But I need a mill for a project did not want to make a project out of making the tool, had they not have been available I would as the next step up I couldn't justify the price tag for what I need .

I even bought a large bandsaw to use as a donor, building one from scratch can add up quick one part at a time having a saw head with all the knick knacks helps save a lot of fabrication, thou I still broke down and ordered one


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## Icutone2

Only what the blade cu ref takes away.
Lee


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## Steve Neul

Yea but how much does a portable sawmill normally take out with a cut. I was hoping I could get some rough 4/4 KD poplar and resaw it to make 3/8" finished drawer siding.


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## georger

I'm still waiting on mine so I can not say for sure but the only issue I can foresee with your project is how low the log guides/locks can go, say they only go half inch above the bed you wont be able to make that last 3/8 cut as the blade will hit your guides. unless you shim your work piece just high enough so that last cut falls above the log guide.
but unless you are a cabinet maker it may be overkill for resawing 4x4s, you could just get poplar logs and resaw them ( tulip poplar I assume )


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## Steve Neul

georger said:


> I'm still waiting on mine so I can not say for sure but the only issue I can foresee with your project is how low the log guides/locks can go, say they only go half inch above the bed you wont be able to make that last 3/8 cut as the blade will hit your guides. unless you shim your work piece just high enough so that last cut falls above the log guide.
> but unless you are a cabinet maker it may be overkill for resawing 4x4s, you could just get poplar logs and resaw them ( tulip poplar I assume )


What I was referring to was rough sawn lumber that was about 1 1/16" thick making a single cut yielding two boards to surface to 3/8". I have been making drawer siding out of plywood because of the cost but I think my cabinets would look better using solid wood for the drawers. If I could re-saw rough wood it would reduce the material cost to where it would be roughly the same cost as using plywood.


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## wericha

Steve Neul said:


> What I was referring to was rough sawn lumber that was about 1 1/16" thick making a single cut yielding two boards to surface to 3/8". I have been making drawer siding out of plywood because of the cost but I think my cabinets would look better using solid wood for the drawers. If I could re-saw rough wood it would reduce the material cost to where it would be roughly the same cost as using plywood.


 Just out of curiosity, why would you want to use a 7hp gasoline powered band saw mill to resaw 4/4 poplar for drawer stock? Kinda overkill, don't 'ya think?


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## Fastback

The other question would be how many draws will you be making? Why not just buy a nice 18 or 20 inch vertical saw and use it to re saw your material, it may be a little more cost effective?

Paul


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## woodnthings

*I agree, except*



Fastback said:


> The other question would be how many draws will you be making? Why not just buy a nice 18 or 20 inch vertical saw and use it to re saw your material, it may be a little more cost effective?
> 
> Paul


Anytime I've used my 18" Min Max or other bandsaws for resawing, supporting the boards were the main issue. Any board over 4 ft will be a problem keeping it flat against the fence and keeping from tipping off the table.

So what is the solution? I've used roller supports to hold the boards both on bandsaws and jointers. The best setup would be a permanent roller surround like this:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/cheap-sawmill-9589/


My setup is like this:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/resaw-large-logs-your-bandsaw-58708/


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## Steve Neul

wericha said:


> Just out of curiosity, why would you want to use a 7hp gasoline powered band saw mill to resaw 4/4 poplar for drawer stock? Kinda overkill, don't 'ya think?


The drawer siding would just be one application. I also have 10 acres of white oak, ash and hickory.


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## georger

Steve Neul said:


> The drawer siding would just be one application. I also have 10 acres of white oak, ash and hickory.


now you're talking, like I said the only issue with resawing rough lumber is how low can that last cut go, and that can be easily worked around if it proves to be an issue, but if you're going for a mill and you have trees your cost can be reduced to labor, the trick is it takes time to dry before you can use it for cabinets I guess,

I looked at some commercial lumber today, pretty much my worst nightmare, looked at 1x, T&G paneling all crooked as can be and it wasn't cheap, I'm no expert but Id say they cut the T&G wet, some were so crooked that I cant imagine cutting t&G in that shape.


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## Steve Neul

georger said:


> now you're talking, like I said the only issue with resawing rough lumber is how low can that last cut go, and that can be easily worked around if it proves to be an issue, but if you're going for a mill and you have trees your cost can be reduced to labor, the trick is it takes time to dry before you can use it for cabinets I guess,
> 
> I looked at some commercial lumber today, pretty much my worst nightmare, looked at 1x, T&G paneling all crooked as can be and it wasn't cheap, I'm no expert but Id say they cut the T&G wet, some were so crooked that I cant imagine cutting t&G in that shape.


What I'm thinking is after making a couple cuts on a log where I have it good and flat I could lay the lumber on top of the log to resaw it. Another option might be to build a wooden frame to hold the lumber for resawing. 

I'm not sure I would want to go to the trouble to cut and dry oak to make drawer siding. Besides I don't believe you could get away with cutting oak thin and then drying it. I believe it would warp so bad it would be unusable. I think I would have to make four quarter wood, dry it and then resaw it. My main interest in the portable mill anyway would be to cut as much quarter sawn oak with it that it would allow. In any case I'm trying to think of all the things I might could make use of having a portable mill.


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## Fastback

I also have to say now your talking. With that much available wood you would be doing well to have a mill. I am just the opposite I only have a couple of trees to cut and mill. There is an oak and a maple. I do have a friend that also has a few ash trees he will be removing so we can make some nice boards. Other then that I'm dry for wood. I'll need to go looking. 

Paul


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## georger

I can not comment on best methods as I am clueless myself, cutting oak thin? I don't know it may warp, there is probably the reason why some sawyers cut thick slabs and resaw them later.

I don't know about your log method, the idea is to secure your rough cut piece to the mills bed securely and if those "dogs" ( I believe that is what they call the devices that secure a log ) can only go down say to 1/2 inch use some shims under the work piece, a half log may be too much for a shim.

I am curious myself about drying as I said took a close look at commercial lumber and it was pretty crooked for an asking premium, they can ask all they want I guess.

a swingmill would be better for quartersawing, I think, but the HF is obviously the cheapest and the reason I chose it, any more and I would consider a different way to go about my lumber ( make one or just buy the lumber )

myself I am sitting on acres of trees but it looks like they have been logged some 40 years ago, most of the good species are younger than that, and lots of large mature cottonwoods, or maybe that's just my area, I'll be going on an eradicating craze when I get a chance, I got 2 acres almost free of cottonwoods, I got the mill hoping I can make some 4/4 boards out of it to use instead of plywood/osb in building a house, those trees grow fast, lumber is not very strong and some say its not even good for firewood so what else am I going to do with those logs? I too am concerned about drying even with fancy kilns what I was looking at yesterday was furniture grade and I wouldn't throw money at it, wonder if I should cut thick slabs and resaw later, I am a ways away from building so I got to get on this soon to allow for drying

maybe I should consider cutting my slabs 2 1/2 times wider than I need them and after an initial drying period resaw them in half, hoping that will give me a relatively flat surface to reference off of and just run them through a planer. what does the forum think?


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## newb

*sawmill*

where Im at cotton wood is about all I have to burn, I think it makes way better fire wood than furniture. It leaves a lot of ash but it burns clean.


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## Steve Neul

A lot of folks use poplar to build with. I would think cottonwood would be a lot better since it is more uniform in color.


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## georger

color and looks I AM NOT VERRY CONCERNED WITH .

I am looking to make sheathing planks out of it, just debating if there is something more I can do other than just plain sawing in hopes to get a straighter easier to use dry board


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## georger

georger said:


> color and looks I AM NOT VERRY CONCERNED WITH .
> 
> I am looking to make sheathing planks out of it, just debating if there is something more I can do other than just plain sawing in hopes to get a straighter easier to use dry board


 I took delivery of my mill today, took about a week, what is the norm installing it do all of you set it on cinderblocks?, I was debating building a bit of a wooden frame to bolt the rails to, I get used fence posts for free at a local shop nearby


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## Anywhy30

georger said:


> I took delivery of my mill today, took about a week, what is the norm installing it do all of you set it on cinderblocks?, I was debating building a bit of a wooden frame to bolt the rails to, I get used fence posts for free at a local shop nearby


Oh I love it, don't have the money to buy yet!
I got an email from HF for 25% off.. 
Thought about using on their planer.. 
Anyone ever try their planer out got two more days on coupon.


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## minuteman62-64

Just looked on-line at HF - on sale for $1999.99. Didn't say what engine was used, but, my understanding is that the Predator engines HF uses now are basically Honda clones. I have the 6.5 HP Predator in my HF chipper/shredder - I guess I'll find out when I need parts


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## jimmy mc

My mill is now a year old. I can say for sure it is the best money I have ever spent on anything. My return on investment is out of site. I am now living in a pole barn finished out with wood from the saw. This one project has paid for the saw many times over. A few of the neighbors have paneling in their houses from the mill. Three chicken houses, many dog houses, some board fencing, and lumber used for I know not haas came from my mill.
This winter it will saw enough lumber to build me a new workshop, and a new barn for my Donkeys.
All of you thatt think you would like to have one. Don't pass up the chance. If you get the saw, logs will find their way to you. I have logs on my farm, but I have people offer me logs often. They have a tree die and ask me if I want the log to saw, they clear an area to build and offer me the logs. It happens often. You will get offers to cut on shares. You get a log for sawing one.
I get asked all the time, Will it saw good lumber. My brother in law has a $25 thousand dollar Woodmizer. My mill will cut just as good lumber as his. Not as fast, and I work harder, but the lumber is just as good. 
Here are the things I have done to mine and the reason.
Mounted it on a trailer, I want to be able to move it to the work, and take it to friends to use.
Changed engine to the HF420, I bought the 420 to but on a backhoe i built. It was to much for it so I swaped it with the 9HP on the mill, Worked out well for both.
Extended the track, Could only saw 9 1/2 feet and wanted to saw up to 16 feet.
Changed the drive belt, The cheap ones that came with it slipped. new belts fixed that.

That is it. Has been a great dependable machine. We will see what year two does.

Jimmy


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## georger

I read the entire thread at some point I recently went through it again and wrote down some interesting posts that I found useful to a tinker owner, as I am ready to put mine together I will take a stab at those mods and get it done right off the bat, or so I am thinking, part of me feels like leaving it alone for a while see how it does, but I am taking it in the woods, some of this fabrication is best done in a shop rather than the fied so I am tempted.

here is a recap of those posts I found interesting.

39, 118, 150, 185, 235, 298, 356, 366, 357, 369.

now I and others tempted got something easy to reference .

if other owners have some tricks/mods please write about I, pics could help too


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## panther49

*Dear Jimmy:*

Could you tell me what brand and model belt you got as a replacement??
Thank you for your posts!!
JC 




jimmy mc said:


> My mill is now a year old. I can say for sure it is the best money I have ever spent on anything. My return on investment is out of site. I am now living in a pole barn finished out with wood from the saw. This one project has paid for the saw many times over. A few of the neighbors have paneling in their houses from the mill. Three chicken houses, many dog houses, some board fencing, and lumber used for I know not haas came from my mill.
> This winter it will saw enough lumber to build me a new workshop, and a new barn for my Donkeys.
> All of you thatt think you would like to have one. Don't pass up the chance. If you get the saw, logs will find their way to you. I have logs on my farm, but I have people offer me logs often. They have a tree die and ask me if I want the log to saw, they clear an area to build and offer me the logs. It happens often. You will get offers to cut on shares. You get a log for sawing one.
> I get asked all the time, Will it saw good lumber. My brother in law has a $25 thousand dollar Woodmizer. My mill will cut just as good lumber as his. Not as fast, and I work harder, but the lumber is just as good.
> Here are the things I have done to mine and the reason.
> Mounted it on a trailer, I want to be able to move it to the work, and take it to friends to use.
> Changed engine to the HF420, I bought the 420 to but on a backhoe i built. It was to much for it so I swaped it with the 9HP on the mill, Worked out well for both.
> Extended the track, Could only saw 9 1/2 feet and wanted to saw up to 16 feet.
> Changed the drive belt, The cheap ones that came with it slipped. new belts fixed that.
> 
> That is it. Has been a great dependable machine. We will see what year two does.
> 
> Jimmy


----------



## lcooke

Thanks panther ,I was about to ask Jimmy the same thing ,I have had my h.f. mill for a little over a year now, still lovin it. I've made a lot of benches ,and other tables and such,put up about 800 ft of horse fence,built a wood drying kiln a shelter over my mill and flooring for my house,still on the original belt but it is begining to slip now .I would really appreciate a part number and info on where you got the belt. Thanks. Lonnie


----------



## Fastback

The belt may be in need of adjustment, it may have just stretched. Normally, a belt starts to fray or just break when it is at the end of its life.. If you have already tried to adjust forget it, if not, then give a try that may be all it needs.

Paul


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## jimmy mc

Guys, I am sorry but I have no Idea what the number of the belt is or the length. I took the worn belt off and my wife took it with her to NAPA and had them match it. 

Lonnie, Isn't it great to be able to saw what ever lumber you need when you need it. You saved a lot of money doing that much. Your saw has paid for it's self already.


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## lcooke

Yes Jimmy it is great, I love it. I just picked up several cedar logs for free ,found add on craigs list ,I got 7 or 8 pretty big logs and the guy only wants a few boards ,he just didnt want them to go to waste. I will try to post a pic, Thanks fastback I will try adjusting the belt


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## Steve Neul

I still don't have a saw yet but I started cutting logs yesterday. I cut down 5 trees which yielded two 16" black Jack oak, four 10" hickory, two 18" white oak and two 9" cedar logs. I think one of the hickory logs may have a lot of insect damage. It's been dead for a while. The black jack even though it wasn't completely dead I believe it will be spalted. 

I sealed the ends and stacked the logs on concrete blocks and covered the stack with polyethylene plastic to keep it from deteriorating much more until I get a saw.


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## toddheath2005

*Manual*

Hey all...
Its been awhile since I have posted anything on here I just wanted to give an update I got from the guys at Woodlands mill. I got their updated manual for the same mill we have. I am going to try and post the link for any that haven't seen it. It is a way better one than we got with our mill with color pics. Hope you all have a merry Christmas and for those who dont celebrate it well hope you have a good one also&#55357;&#56842;

http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?f=001IHHK...XXjwg249T0ecIlgwGfIQkFl-mAcJZwI4U-MS1mOfMDavA==

if this didn't work I will try and just post the file.

P.S. Somebody sent me a P.M. About my dome that built one and living in one I believe up by K.C. If I remember. Somehow I lost it I would like to talk to you so if you would den me a message that would be awesome I don't want you thinking I was ignoring you. Life been crazy I haven't milled anything in a long time! I took mill apart to replace all the wear items and havnt even put it back together its all packed in a crate I built in the barn. I picked up 2 30' pieces of 3" angle to make it one piece track hopefully on a trailer. 

To all that is on the fence about getting one my advice is beg borrow or steal to get one.lol dont steal but pull the trigger and get it you wont be sorry. As you can see from the other guys mill it is the same base as ours they just upgraded a few add ons. You can pay more for theirs but really all your buying is the customer support they give that we don't have. Personally I rather pay less and just ask on here because there is a wealth of knowledge from the people on this forum I am so glad that the forum has lasted this long. What started out as people dogging on harbor freight turned into the nicest place to find truly honest people with honest knowledge. If anyone has any questions dont be afraid to ask. I may not be able to answer but someone here can. I have owned mine for years but some of these guys have far surpassed me on knowledge &#55357;&#56842; I need to be the one asking questions.lol I live in middle of Kansas and will tell you we have some of the hardest and heaviest trees aka hedge around and this mill slices like semi chilled butter&#55357;&#56842; hope the link works and MERRY CHRISTMAS &#55357;&#56833;


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## panther49

Hi All!
Thanks Jimmy for the info. My belt is a the end of adjustment and I will remove it and take it to NAPA then.


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## Fastback

Todd, the link did not work. I thought it might be helpful in my mill build. Your right there is a lot of good information here on these smaller mills. Hope your able to get the link straightened out.

Paul


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## Bill Space

Hi Todd And all,

Like everyone else I have no regrets about buying the mill. It is such great fun seeing a log that would otherwise either turn into firewood, or worse rot away, turn into a useful piece of lumber!

That link did not work for me either. Would like to see it if possible. Perhaps you could post it as a pdf file?

Cannot wait for spring! Put the mill under roof for the winter and am contemplating a more permanent set up with rail extensions for the spring. 

Happy New Year to all!

Bill


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## jimmy mc

See if this link will work

http://woodlandsawmills.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/HM126%20Manual%20-%20Mar-10-2014.pdf


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## Bill Space

The link works Jimmy! Thanks!


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## Jagracinn

Hi y'all tried posting on this thread but I guess it ended up in the wrong spot. Thanks again Bill Space who played a key part in getting my mill. Anyways just wanted you to see some of mesquite I cut. It is now posted in the projects photo thread. Happy sawing.


----------



## Bill Space

Hi Jesse and all,

Glad you were able to get your mill at the great price myself and others have. Too bad they will no longer take the discount coupons on the sale price of the mill...

Mine is put away under roof for the winter. Can't wait for spring and more sawing time!

Following is the link to the thread Jesse mentioned (I hope I did it right):

http://http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/mesquite-wall-72649/


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## georger

well I have not cut a log yet but I had a chance to un box the mill and tinkered with it a bit, I raised the throttle handle as it has been mentioned before and a mod of my own, I should be able to cut just a tad over 7 " deep ( versus the 4"1/2 factory) by the standard 21" and some change, see attached, it took an 82" belt a pulley and a bolt, by the time I bought a couple tools and some supplies I didn't need I spent more than I should, belt was about $50 I'm sure I can find a better deal but the lawnmower shop ripped me a new one, pulley, got 2 for about $30, NOT TOO BAD

oh and yes I did end up with a spare brand new belt I don't need if someone is interested, I am also looking to extend the track at some point I read some of yous built your own, if you're sitting on the original tracks, let me know I am interested if I can acquire them for a decent price, wonder what they would cost to ship or what HF sells them for, I'm sure I can get something local if it comes to it


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## Fastback

If you ever need a new belt try Tractor Supply, they have some decent prices on their Kevlar belts. Thanks for posting the pictures of the blade guards, they will help me in building my own. I haven't worked on my mill this week I decided it was time to clean the metal shop.

Paul


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## georger

no worries, most homemades end up using trailer fenders, which is fine I suppose thou others will argue safety, I can get you some better pics when time comes, but it looks like they traced octagons around the wheels, cut it all out of a sheet and folded the sides over about 3 inches, couple tacks and done, the guard and the belt on these mills limited the cut height to an advertised 4.5 inches, hence the extra pulley and longer belt and the notch in the guard freed it up to a bit over 7 inches,


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## jimmy mc

georger, great mod. I think that is one I will do to mine sometime soon. I have needed to cut some 6X6 poles and that mod would have made it a little easyer then cutting from all sides. I could have gotten 4 from one large cant. I will do it before I start cutting the post for the new workshop this spring. Thanks for posting it. One could also make the new pulley adjust and use it to tighten the belt. That would be easyer then moving the engine. loosen one bolt move pulley tighten bolt your done. It is a must do.


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## Fastback

Yes, I agree that is a nice mod. Now you can cut to the center of a 14 inch log, which is pretty decent. 

Paul


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## Bill Space

Georger,

Great modification!

Can you share some specifics on the idler pully, etc. ,source and part numbers?

Looks like a GREAT future modification. 

Thanks for posting!

Bill


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## Bill Space

Hi,

I was looking at my mill and realized that I could add about 3.5" of 7" cut debth by using Georger's modification on the non-drive side only. 

Would use a spacer to hold the cant towards that side. Not as cool as what Georger did but it would still be an improvement that would increase the 7" max thickness capability to about 16", without the need to do more. 

Thanks again to Georger for his post!

Bill


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## georger

Bill Space said:


> Hi,
> 
> I was looking at my mill and realized that I could add about 3.5" of 7" cut debth by using Georger's modification on the non-drive side only.
> 
> Would use a spacer to hold the cant towards that side. Not as cool as what Georger did but it would still be an improvement that would increase the 7" max thickness capability to about 16", without the need to do more.
> 
> Thanks again to Georger for his post!
> 
> Bill


 
True, that would be an easy way to do it, I wonder if the cross members could be turned around or the saw head flipped in the opposite direction of cut, so there would be no need for spacers to secure the log, looks like the safety guide could be swapped with the water spout thou that may affect the lube/ cooling situation, the water line could be secured with a hose clamp if needed, that would give you a 7" x16"+ good enough for an easy mod all you need is an angle grinder, bend and stich or rivet and done.

I disagree with the tensioner pulley idea, that complicates things, and I don't like complicated setups, adjusting the belt by the motor works fine no sense in overthinking this, the pulley needs to be mounted securely and it can loosen up as well as it can be "easily" adjusted, a spring loaded automotive pulley was a thought but I opted not.

as for parts list, I ended up with a 2 3/4 " generic pulley from the local lawnmower shop, it has to be a flat pulley, there is a part # on it but that is irrelevant, any flat pulley will do, the belt is 82" long 5/8" thick, a 4.5" grade 8 1/2" bolt nut and washer, and a 1" spacer bushing, 

If I were to do this again, and I probably will mess with it at some point, I would order a 4" pulley, more curve better for the belt and there is plenty of space, in its current location it will bring the belt a bit further away from the guard, about a 1/2" now, you would need a 83-84" belt as I had to bring the motor in a bit to make this one fit,

there was some thought and math involved in placing the pulley I wanted it mid span between engine and drive wheel, its a bit more complicated than it seemed at first as the belt changes pitch and the contact point with the wheel changes drastically as one is 3" the other 19", I got it pretty close, see the marker lines in the pics, you're going to end up drilling pretty close to the top of the cross bar, just enough so that the 1/2 inch hole is on flat metal, and it looks like about 7 1/8" away from the square vertical tube, your mileage may vary depending on pulley size used, I say the larger the better, this should get you in the ball park, mock up and adjust.

as for shopping for parts, google is your friend I got belts and pulleys for $10 before, this time being a prototype I got them at the lawnmower shop and they ripped me a new one, I may return them thou, the pulley is plastic, not too excited about that hence part number is irrelevant, when I redo it I'll post the part numbers

George


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## georger

Fastback said:


> Yes, I agree that is a nice mod. Now you can cut to the center of a 14 inch log, which is pretty decent.
> 
> Paul


 
actually I can probably do that up to 20" logs, I'm no sawyer as I mentioned I have yet to cut a board, but one would cut a flat slab off first anyhow, just to square it off turn it 180 degrees cut the top again and you're left with 14 inches height, than you can slice it in the middle.

one other thing I plan to do, but I have to set it up first, I read here that the track guides are a bit off center with the saw guides, the plan is to notch them a bit at the top, it would not matter while squaring a log but once you have a straight edge one would drop the guide all the way down anyways, and that last bit is what needs to line up, maybe one of yous can have a look at that post some pics or maybe even beat me to it.

there are many thing I would have done different or mod to this mill but the plan here is to keep it simple, I may otherwise build from scratch just the same.

I also ordered some steel, not sure what HF would want for an extra set of tracks, I never looked into it, I have a local shop I used in the past they ordered some 4"x3", and they will punch the holes for me, I also had them get me some 6x3 square for cross members, as we were measuring them I realized that the stock angle is actually 4x2.5, same angle that is used on the crossmember that connects the 2 pieces of track but if you compare the 2 and pay close attention to the tracks they have been milled down to get a square edge, I got a circular saw with a fence, and even a table saw which most of you should have also, HF sells cutoff wheels, in a few passes with small increments should easily cut it to size, that will be next


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## Bill Space

georger said:


> True, that would be an easy way to do it, I wonder if the cross members could be turned around or the saw head flipped in the opposite direction of cut, so there would be no need for spacers to secure the log...


I thought about this but do not think it would work. The saw blade always wants to push the cant towards the drive wheel, so reversing would not change anything...

Just priced a 20' piece of 2x3x3/8 inch angle here in Pittsburgh, $134 plus tax. Want to extend my rails, now need to decide whether it is better to put the new piece of angle uncut on one side and join the original rails together on the other, or cut the new piece in half and use two new pieces to extend what exists. I am leaning toward the latter although will do nothing until May or June, if I am lucky!

Also need to decide where, an how, to place the mill in a permanent position. On top of that I need to decide if I should use some 10' lengths of 10" by 2" channel that I have instead of the standard channel the HF supplied for the track. I have 60' of this but it will not work with the HF cross members. When I bought this stuff, the guy told me his father in law bought it to use with a saw mill, which did not happen...funny that I am considering using it for the same purpose at this time. When I bought it I just did for future use as the price was right even though I did not have a use for it at the time.

Thinking out loud now, but if the channel I have would happen to be 10'x3" I could cut one length wise and not need to spend anything... but I am pretty sure it is 2" channel. Better check to be certain!

Still very happy I purchased the HF mill. Would never have purchased a more expensive one regardless of how much better they might be.

Bill


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## Bill Space

Georger,

Looks like the Surplus Center has a 4" metal idler pulley that would work, with either 1/2 or 5/8 bore diameter...

Hope this link works!

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-...-1-GROOVE-FLAT-BELT-IDLER-PULLEY-1-3744-A.axd


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## Fastback

My thoughts on the new track would be to cut in half and make a new extension. That way of you ever need to move the saw you could disassemble in pieces. This section could be bolted to the new section. 

As for a frame to support the mill I would think that a frame made from wood would do the job nicely. The angle iron track could be bolted down to the wooden frame In my mind, I am thinking of elevating the mill at least 18 inches to reduce the need for too much bending on my part. I thought if I level an area and place some stone dust, maybe 3 or 4 inches it would make a nice spot for the mill and be somewhat easy to clean. At some point, I would expect to build some type of 3 sided cover for the mill. It depends on the building inspector they tend to be a pain around here.

Paul


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## jimmy mc

georger said:


> I disagree with the tensioner pulley idea, that complicates things, and I don't like complicated setups, adjusting the belt by the motor works fine no sense in overthinking this, the pulley needs to be mounted securely and it can loosen up as well as it can be "easily" adjusted, a spring loaded automotive pulley was a thought but I opted not.
> George


I agree, after thinking about it my new belt has not needed adjusting. A solid mounted pulley is the best, easyest way. Good job.


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## georger

well there it is folks new and improved, I happened to be around a Tractor Supply store today picked up a few things, I ended up using the 4 5/8 " pulley it had a 5/8 bore but they also sell a reducing bushing. I used a 1/2" grade 8 bolt, 5" long, and it worked much better, pulled the belt away from the guard, I feel a bit better about it now, they do flap a bit, I did end up with a 84" belt which was much more reasonable, that overprized junk is going back to the lawnmower store, I keep telling myself never to go back there.

so in the end all this mod requires is to drill a 1/2"hole, a pulley, bolt, 1" spacer, new belt see parts list, and of course notching the guard, I folded it over on itself and tacked it, one could use a few pop rivets if you don't weld, or I guess just cut off the excess all together, take that woodland mills, how's that for developing a ready made Chinese mill

as for the track, the actual dimensions are 4"x2.5" angle 5/16" thick, no supplier will sell you a direct replacement, it looks like the factory milled a flat edge on the 2.5" side, look at the center cross member and the other side of the angle they have a rounded edge.

I ordered 2 pieces 4"x3" about 6' long just like the original, the shop will punch the holes for me all I have to do is cut it down to 2.5" actually it works out to be a little less, so the idea is to use the circular saw with a metal cut off wheel, set the fence by an existing piece and cut it in several passes with small increments, a table saw would do the same

an extra 1/4 inch would have been awesome, I may notch the frame at some point we'll see if I need more, but the main reason for this mod is I have some very large logs that for one I may not have been able to cut, the other is I can cut 6" slabs, easily, turn them on the side and slice quarter sawn 2x6s, in its original state could only do 2x4s that way, or flat saw


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## georger

Fastback said:


> My thoughts on the new track would be to cut in half and make a new extension. That way of you ever need to move the saw you could disassemble in pieces. This section could be bolted to the new section.
> 
> As for a frame to support the mill I would think that a frame made from wood would do the job nicely. The angle iron track could be bolted down to the wooden frame In my mind, I am thinking of elevating the mill at least 18 inches to reduce the need for too much bending on my part. I thought if I level an area and place some stone dust, maybe 3 or 4 inches it would make a nice spot for the mill and be somewhat easy to clean. At some point, I would expect to build some type of 3 sided cover for the mill. It depends on the building inspector they tend to be a pain around here.
> 
> Paul


 
I got a bunch of treated 4x4 used, free from a fencing outfit down the road, they have them all the time first 2 I grabbed for a mockup were badly twisted, there are some better ones but I think I shall set it on cinderblock, with maybe a 1x shim sandwiched between frame and block, I did like the idea of sinking a couple posts in the ground and bolt them to the track, I have a few extra holes, I think that will be the end route


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## Bill Space

I checked the dimensions of the track today with A digital caliper and like Georger said above it is very close to 4" x 2.5".

One option would be to use a 3.5" x 2.5" piece of angle. This seems to be a standard size. My track is closer to one quarter-inch thick, rather than the 5/16 inch thick measurement that Georger made. 

Turns out that that 10 inch channel that I have is a 10" x 2.5" so it looks like I can cut one piece lengthwise and end up with two 5" x 2.5" x 10' pieces for each side. This is good because I will not need to lay out cash to extend my track, aside from an abrasive wheel or two for my circular saw.

I could cut the channel in half lengthwise with a torch but the edge would be rough. Not that it matters much, but I would like Clean, straight edge better…

I am looking forward to getting my mill located somewhere permanently in May, hopefully! 

AND having the ability to cut 16' plus in length! :thumbsup:


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## georger

who knows maybe they made them in batches and used whatever track available, or mine has more paint, its new never used, track measured 0,32" the rollers slightly larger, that is probably more critical as you want a snug fit that don't bind, 1/4 track for my rollers may be too thin, check yours.

they could have used a 8x5 square and ripped it in quarters, one of my tracks showed, a weld line just below the edge not sure what that was about


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## Fastback

georger said:


> I got a bunch of treated 4x4 used, free from a fencing outfit down the road, they have them all the time first 2 I grabbed for a mockup were badly twisted, there are some better ones but I think I shall set it on cinderblock, with maybe a 1x shim sandwiched between frame and block, I did like the idea of sinking a couple posts in the ground and bolt them to the track, I have a few extra holes, I think that will be the end route


I think it would be better to dig a few holes insert and fill cardboard tubes with concrete. Then place the 4 x 4 post on top, this I think, will make a more permanent and solid base. I expect that inserting at least 6 would do the job for the standard track length. With any luck you wont need to revisit leveling any time in the near future.

Paul


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## Bill Space

Hi,

I got curious and took a Starret mic and measured the angle thickness. The average of three measurements was 0.27 inches. Not sure of paint thickness, but 0.010 on a side seems reasonable, so I think in my case the angle is 0.25 inches. 

I think 3.5" x 2.5" angle is a standard size. I will probably use that to extend my tracks if I decide not to split a piece of that existing channel that I have. 

This is a great thread and I am sure mucho helpful to guys like us who bought these mills!

Bill


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## georger

did anybody order the extension kit? I had a local shop cut me a couple angles and they completely fudged it, I am so disgusted I don't even want to elaborate, sad part is this is Chinese stuff I asked them to duplicate and you wonder why I bought an HF mill over domestic, or why I have a $100 Stark chainsaw and love it and not a stihl ( I meant that in lower case ) or the Hvana ( cant even spell that one )

That's what I get for trying to keep it local, this never fails, mind you this is a full blown steel distributor with a decked out fab shop, I thought they could do a better job than I could with a HF hand drill and HF bits, they charged me a lot too, I got to go back tomorrow,

all of yous that posted $hit about buying Chinese, guess what I am never getting anything else, at least if it don't work out I didn't pay that much for it, and most times I had good luck with it or they took it back or replaced it.

yes there are many things I would have done different building this mill, hence the mods, but truth is this mill was meant to be simple , functional and affordable and that's how I like my stuff.

what a disappointment, anybody that ever bitched about jobs going oversees, best pay attention to how you do yours, no wonder


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## georger

well I called HF this morning, there are 2 part numbers for the track and they are about $100 each, I assume each is for half a track, I paid $350 for some idiot to completely destroy a 20ft stick, first they welded it back to back with my original, I don't appreciate that I left them there for a template, but no damage done, problem is they marked them backwards and we talked about that when I dropped it off, than they welded the fudgeup, and tediously measured it all wrong and drilled it again, you can tell by eye from 5 ft away there is not a pair of holes in the right spot, at this point is too far gone I cant even fix it, sad part is I chose to pay them because with the equipment they have they were supposed to do a better job faster than I could with a hand drill, they charged me 3 hours at $70 to completely destroy that stick, I had stuff made there before it never took this long and cost this much and it was done right, I have cross members made on my semi truck by these guys, looks like they hire just anybody these days but they still charge a premium 3 times over, 

this is such a disappointment the whole concept is just disgusting, yet the same people will be bitching about being out of a job due to outsourcing, they cant duplicate a Chinese part let alone develop one and produce it for a reasonable price, this is what American craftsmanship has come to, nobody gives a dam and most are just too ignorant to know better, punch a card and get paid lots of moneys, fudging idiots, it never fails, I almost always do everything myself not that I enjoy it this much, but this is what you get for paying to have it done, every now and again I use some out fit for one thing or another due to time restraints, and there you have it, this was one of the last trusty shops I knew of, if I ever need anything again I am ordering it directly from China, I don't care if it takes 10 weeks to get here on a slow boat, cut out all the middle man some of those cant even take an order yet they demand more payment then the bastard that build the product


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## jimmy mc

georger, Harbor freight has sold two different model mills. The main difference is the track. One is lighter than the other. That may be why there are two part numbers. Check it out before you order.


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## DannysCam

i got off the phone with harbor freight they want $97 for 1 piece of 6 foot piece of angle iron and it takes them 10 weeks... i ask about the bunkers they said they are $69 each have you seen woodland mills track extension looks like a match but its $375 plus shipping.. my only worry is that the harbor freight angle iron looks laxer cut look, how square it is on top most angle iron i see is cold rolled steel it has a beveled edge, what do you guys think


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## Bill Space

I happened to take a picture of the end of my track rail when I measured it recently. 

It looks like the standard profile for common steel angle. 

(The picture didn't work. Maybe I never posted from my phone before. Will try again later… From my iPad.)

Hope the picture is orientated correctly.


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## DannysCam

*perfect match*

http://woodlandmills.ca/product/track-extension/ perfect match but shipping cost might be a lot


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## Bill Space

Did something change with respect to including photos in a reply?

I am using the APP which worked before. Now it seems that it wants the photo to be hosted somewhere and will not take an upload directly from my phone or iPad. 


Previously I was able to upload photos from my phone from within the APP. 


Bit confused now...


Bill


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## jimmy mc

DannysCam said:


> http://woodlandmills.ca/product/track-extension/ perfect match but shipping cost might be a lot


I tried to buy some parts from them and they would not sale to me because I had not bought a mill from them. Not a very friendly guy that I talked to on the phone. He asked me what kind of a mill I owned. I will not lie so I told him and he said because I had not bought a mill from them they would not sale any parts to me. All I was trying to buy was one of their scales.


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## heavy_d

jimmy mc said:


> I tried to buy some parts from them and they would not sale to me because I had not bought a mill from them. Not a very friendly guy that I talked to on the phone. He asked me what kind of a mill I owned. I will not lie so I told him and he said because I had not bought a mill from them they would not sale any parts to me. All I was trying to buy was one of their scales.


Next time lie


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## JohninPA

Hi, new to the forum. I have seen some excellent advice about the Harbor Freight mill here. Thanks to all of you for the ideas and information.


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## Michael W

Jimmy, Since when do business's feel like they are doing you a favor to sell you something. Woodland Mills can go fly a kite! Thanks to you and the others for all the great ideas. If it ever gets warmer out I might try a few of the modifications suggested on this thread.


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## Bill Space

I say tell them to go fly a kite too. 

You have what you bought. What rational seller would pass the opportunity to make a profit on a sale of a part in this case?

OK...perhaps a balance between reputation for NOT selling parts to others... And potential future sales. But this attitude may steer potential buyers away, leading to greater losses than if they sold to anyone without question. 

I remember someone telling them they bought a used mill that had been repainted and the serial number was not to be found. While the reality was that the person had bought a HF mill. Parts were sold without question 

What a bunch of BS!

I would never recommend anyone to buy from a company that uses this practice as a business model!


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## georger

I don"t care much for woodland mills, I watched their videos at some point they take too much credit for tinkering with a ready made mill, 

I already have one but any future people that are curious or at least bit tempted should gather up for a group buy, bet we could order a bunch of these in a container directly from the manufacturer, throw some extensions in there too, I have a warehouse we can ship them to and either drive up to Detroit to get it or we'll talk to Conway to take it from here, bet they are half price in large quantities, that's what woodland does, I bet they order them striped of motor for $500 each, somebody check alibaba, all Chinese manufacturers are there.

as for the extension, a 20 ft stick of angle is about $100, if I had to do it again I'd just buy the angle, I don't have a drill press, hence I opted to pay and have it drilled, bad mistake should have had at it with my hand drill, next time.

one other think I debated doing is to extend the track ever so slightly at both ends just enough to hold the carriage, hence the original track could serve a full 12 ft log, that could be done with any scrap.

unfortunately I have so many other things going on right now, I opted to buy this mill because I don't have time to build one, same with the extensions, maybe one of yous can make extensions and sell them right here, I'd buy one, I'd make them if I had the time, heck if enough are interested I could justify buying some tools


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## Maddski

Hi all! New here but have read most of this post and you all talked me into purchasing a HF band mill. They have on sale this month for 1999.99 and today was last day. I called three times trying to use the 25% off and was denied the first 2 times. The 3rd time was a charm. Got the mill for 1500.00 with coupon and tax exempt status. Weird I had to try three times and the last time I was going to just buy it for the 1999.99 sale price! It was available with no back order also. Can't wait for it to be delivered! Have a lot of timber on 100 acre farm and can't wait to start projects and save on $. Thanks for the input here! I'm sure all your advice will come in handy in the future! Will post more when I get the mill delivered and set up.


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## Maddski

Any tips on setting blade tension?


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## Maddski

Looks like Kasco blades are best bang for buck! Any input appreciated!


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## Maddski

I see spectrum has has pallet master blades that will cut thru nails. They are cheap and probably cut slow but may be a good to have one on hand to change to if you detect metal in a log.


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## DannysCam

Maddski said:


> I see spectrum has has pallet master blades that will cut thru nails. They are cheap and probably cut slow but may be a good to have one on hand to change to if you detect metal in a log.


i recommend cooks blades i like there cooks black tipped blade only cost $15 and for tensioning the blade heres a video iiwww.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ90zj5AqoE[/url] :yes:


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## Maddski

Thanks Danny, will check it out!


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## Maddski

Tried to view that site Danny but, didn't find anything specific to blade tension.


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## Maddski

I know blade tensioning is mostly a touchy feely thing for most! Just would like some personal insite! Thanks in advance!


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## DannysCam

Maddski said:


> Tried to view that site Danny but, didn't find anything specific to blade tension.


sorry about that i removed the Https from so that i could post a link https remove space ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ90zj5AqoE just remove the space and it should work hey what coupon code did you use its getting harder to find the 25% off ones


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## Maddski

Coupon #21741290 good till the end of March. 25 percent off.


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## georger

I also ordered from cooks, I got 10 blades came in a big box delivered to my door for about $165, I got the idea from danys videos, it worked for him and cooks is a decent brand and they sell them as central machinery saw mill blades, so they will have to do for me, I have yet to use them thou.

one thing to consider if you plan on cutting a decent amount, you may want to get a few more than a couple blades, I think I read somewhere they get dull after a couple decent size logs or so, granted they can be sharpened by hand, I reckoned I'd rather have them on hand and replace them as they dull, by the time I dulled them all we'll see about sending them in for a resharp or I may do it by hand or buy or make a machine.

you can also get them from woodmiser and several other places as long as you have the dimensions, there are also a few different pitches and teeth count and angles, and a little too much for me to take in before I cut my first board, I'll consider all that after I wear through these


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## Maddski

Was looking at a different forum and a guy bought the HF mill and two 20 ft 3x4x1/4 and redid his rails to one piece and can cut over 19 ft logs. I think I will do the same $200 for rails makes it all one piece. Can load on trailer with my tractor and forks and move any where. Also looks beefier and solid.


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## Maddski

Looks like cooks will send you a couple sample blades to try to see you like best. Think I will try this also.


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## georger

Maddski said:


> Was looking at a different forum and a guy bought the HF mill and two 20 ft 3x4x1/4 and redid his rails to one piece and can cut over 19 ft logs. I think I will do the same $200 for rails makes it all one piece. Can load on trailer with my tractor and forks and move any where. Also looks beefier and solid.



I did just that the other day, after a horrible disappointment with my favorite steel shop, trying to make an extension, I ended up buying 2 20ft sticks and a 24ft 6x3, the sticks were about $130 ea, the 6x3 was 200 something, not sure exactly, but about $500 worth, I haven't messed with it yet but the idea is I shall mess with it soon


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## a5t1

Has anyone purchased the sawmill recently AND used the 25% coupon? If so, what number did use you? I've made multiple calls and can't seem to get it to go through.


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## honesttjohn

Georger,

Whereabouts are you in this land of potholes?

HJ

You got me looking now


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## Steve Neul

a5t1 said:


> Has anyone purchased the sawmill recently AND used the 25% coupon? If so, what number did use you? I've made multiple calls and can't seem to get it to go through.


I've heard of it being done but I tried in on their online site and it wouldn't allow any coupons. I'm wondering if you have to order it at the store to use the coupon.


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## Maddski

All I can say is call,call,call! Third time calling was the charm! Also tell them I used the coupon! Order # 2976451. Good luck!


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## a5t1

There was an update to their computer system on March 1st that will not allow the use of the coupon. They did offer me the sawmill for 1899.


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## Maddski

That is probably the best price you will get now it sounds like.


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## Maddski

Funny I heard it all from them by the third call! But it worked the third time. Talked to a manager twice!


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## Maddski

I was actually going to buy the mill for 1999.99 the third call and for heck of it tried the coupon again and it worked. Wife said third call was a charm! Hummm!


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## Maddski

Well my mil was just delivered. I am very impressed,heavy built,even the blade guards are heavy steel. The tracks are a solid 1/4 angle, still think I am going to buy two 20 ft 3x4x1/4 rails so it will be all one piece. Priced them today at 185.00. Then I can extend it longer with the rails that it came with if need be. I probably won't cut anything longer than 16 ft tho.


----------



## Maddski

My earlier post was wrong. The I mentioned used 22 ft long angle to cut 19 + ft logs. 20 ft should do 16 ft logs.


----------



## georger

honesttjohn said:


> Georger,
> 
> Whereabouts are you in this land of potholes?
> 
> HJ
> 
> You got me looking now


I'm on the other side of town, the mill is still in the warehouse haven't had a chance to mess with it other than the mod I posted about, I probably will soon, just got a few things on my plate at the moment


----------



## honesttjohn

I had read somewhere where someone made his own 20' rails using a metal tube and angle iron. That gave the mill a one piece rail. Then he cut the factory rails and made cross members out of them - welding them to the new rails.

HJ

You guys are giving me bad ideas


----------



## Maddski

Someone suggested dissembling the cable crank and adding grease to it. So my question is how did they dissemble it? Did they just crank the handle out all the way until it comes apart before the cable go on? I am wondering if I crank it out all the way will it go back in without too much trouble?


----------



## georger

well if you try it let me know the outcome, sounds like an easy preventative thing to do, also look back a few pages, I read through this whole thread and summed up posts I found relevant with mods easy mods that other people did, one in particular involves drilling 2 new holes and relocating the push handle, definitely worth the trouble


----------



## Michael W

*New saw rails and log support*

Bought new 20' metal rails and 5 log supports to increase saw capacity. Any ideas on how I should level and mount it? I will be installing on existing cement pad.


----------



## Michael W

*Saw Mill Rail Pics*

$423.00 from local shop


----------



## bacononeactual

First of all, your shop is way too clean. 

For what it's worth, what I did was I mounted the rails to railroad ties and used shingles under the rails to level them up.


----------



## georger

yeah I bought the same thing, didn't get to cut it any, what is your take on putting it all together, I just got done drilling some rails for a different project, what pain, welding will warp, and they are too large to use a drill press, this should be interesting.


----------



## Michael W

Thanks for the compliment on shop cleanliness. It's pretty cluttered right now, and I hate stumbling over things when I'm trying to put something together, so I do need to get it organized. Thanks also for the suggestion of mounting the rails to railroad ties. This forum and thread are great for ideas and suggestions, and that's exactly what I was looking for. I was planning to weld the frame together, and never thought about the warping issue, so now I'm leaning toward drilling. It would also allow for minor adjustments to make sure the rails are parallel. I was also debating wood or metal for mounting to cement pad, and do agree with bacononeactual that with wood it would be easier to shim and level. Decisions, Decisions. Thanks for the great ideas, hopefully I'll get some more suggestions.


----------



## Michael W

.....also georger, your post was my motivation for finally buying some metal to extend the rails, and not having the shop punch my holes for putting together. I read and reread these posts. Lots of smart people on here.


----------



## newb

I bolted mine directly to a slab behind my shop ,I leveled one end then the other , then stretched a string line and shimmed to the line . of course I have a hammer drill so it was easy to drill holes in the concrete. its straight as a string.


----------



## HRT87

*Low expense bed extension*

I have less than $50 in my 10 bed extension for total length 22'. I can mill an 18' log. I bought a 20' piece of 1/4" x 2" x 2" new structural steel at local supplier. I made bed supports from hardwood pallet wood bolted and glued together to make correct height. I used some used 2" x 12" to build bed support on existing concrete. It has worked flawlessly for me.
see at : http://tinyurl.com/mx22jjm Just offered as idea for those looking for low cost alternatives that work.

Also I use an 18v battery drill to raise and lower my mill height instead of cranking...

Great forum! 
Love my Harbor Freight Mill! 
With regard and respect for all, 
Monte Hines, 
Hines Farm Blog


----------



## Maddski

I bought a new half inch cobalt bit and drilled my rails, 18 holes took a couple hrs kept bit well lubbed with cutting oil, worked well, took my time and didn't rush the bit! Stayed sharp to the last hole, was worried about drilling free hand without drill press. Now waiting for snow to melt and ground to thaw so I can excavated the permanent site and set ties and mount the mill. Will get some pics soon


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## georger

did you freehand them? straight up with a half inch?

how did it go as far as getting them to be consistent, the shop that attempted mine had them allover the place, part of the reason I wanted another section was to be easier to handle now I to have 2 20ft sticks, I have yet to mess with, my ground is long thawed and flooded, I got other issues at the moment


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## Michael W

Maddski, I've decided to do the same thing. (drill the holes) I made a template out of a scrap piece of aluminum with 1/2 holes and used a centering punch to mark the holes. I have not drilled them yet, as I am waiting for my Strong Arm 5 protable drill press to show up. Did I need it to drill the holes - No, but I'm a tool nut, and any excuse to buy a new tool is great. I'll post pictures and let everyone know how it works. Also I have been debating how to mount and level the rails on an existing concrete pad, and found some 1" bolts that I will use to mount and level.


----------



## Maddski

Yes I free hand drilled everything with out a problem. I used new cobalt bits and kept them lubed. Worked fine! Half inch is bigger than bolts provided with mill so there is plenty of room to wiggle!


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## Maddski

I also drilled holes for stops I think 7/16. It is done and painted just waiting for ground to thaw to set it up. Still froze last night when I tried to level spot with loader tractor! Patience I guess. I'm putting it in a perminate spot so I don't want to put mill head on until rails are set and level.


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## georger

woau, I am not that far from you and we did not even have a lot of frost to begin with but it all has been gone for some time, I happen to be building up my lot at this time and I had lots of fill delivered over the winter, I managed to spread it just as everything was thawing, I just got back from my lot, I was hoping to clean up a drainage ditch I just put in within 5 yards I sunk the backhoe 5 times, barely managed to get out and find a spot solid enough to park it for now.

guess there was some snow mixed in with that dirt, few days ago I was spreading it a bit and uncovered some of the white stuff, half hour later I sunk the dozer in that spot.

what do you use for cutting lube? I have been doing metal work for a long time but never had enough holes to drill to worry about it, the template and center punch Idea was what I was planning to do, I am kind of geeky about putting those holes in the right spot, especially after the miss hap with the shop, I have other things to worry about besides the saw mill at the moment but sooner or later I need to get around to it, I am sitting on a large pile of logs I harvested last fall, and I bucked them all to the 9'2" stock max cut, I hadn't even ordered the mill at the time I did all that, I got to tell you thou some of those 4'+ even at that length were tipping my TLB and I got a decent size JD 310, I am not sure how would I even get a 20' on the mill less alone process it, guess initially I might as well set up the stock rails, and mill what I got cut last fall, worry about setting up a longer track later, I think the stock rails are about 13' for a 9' cut, so should get about 16 ' out of those 20'sticks I guess, any longer than that you wouldn't be able to get a decent size log on it not without some serious equipment, and that was the hole point about extending the track, to get some long 2x10 , 2x12 out of it, we'll see how this goes when I get around to it.


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## Maddski

I had cutting paste and cutting oil. I liked the oil best. I had one of the stocked rails cut for my end pieces. Only took about and hour to drill the holes once I got it square and clamped together.


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## Michael W

20 foot rails, used strong arm 5 to drill 1/2 inch and 1 inch holes









log holder prior to welding on cross support









cross supports with log holder, ugly weld job, and ugly paint job (but hopefully functional)









T-handles dipped in rubber adhesive to tighten down on vertical log holders


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## Michael W

Strong arm 5 which helped immensly to drill all the holes in the rails.


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## Maddski

Good idea! Where did you get the strong arm?


----------



## Michael W

*Strong Arm 5*

http://strongarm5.com/products/the-strong-arm-5-hd/


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## honesttjohn

Can you rent one of those for a day?

HJ


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## Michael W

I'm not sure. I guess it would depend on if your local rental place would have one. I doubt that you could rent it from the online vendor.


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## Steve Neul

I find drilling 1" or greater holes in steel easier with a bimetal hole saw.


----------



## jimmy mc

Drilling holes on location is not hard to do. Measure the location of the holes, center punch, then use a center drill to start the hole, then drill it. It isn't hard to do and will be on location. As for lubing the drill. Any oil will work, I have used everything from kerosine to water, the most important thing is to let the drill work and not push it to hard. 

Jimmy


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## fordnut

have just joined here was reading up on H/F sawmill going to buy new mill but noticed the 67138 mill has been replaced with 62366 # mill just wondering if they are the same ? any feedback would be great ...by the way 20% off coupons wont fly any longer called H/F got ahold of someone who's mastery of English was not good and he was clueless about my questions


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## MSW_Shop

fordnut said:


> have just joined here was reading up on H/F sawmill going to buy new mill but noticed the 67138 mill has been replaced with 62366 # mill just wondering if they are the same ? any feedback would be great ...by the way 20% off coupons wont fly any longer called H/F got ahold of someone who's mastery of English was not good and he was clueless about my questions


What? No more 20% off coupons? I am still getting them in my NRA publications.


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## Alchymist

MSW_Shop said:


> What? No more 20% off coupons? I am still getting them in my NRA publications.


.......................................


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## Steve Neul

From what I could tell the 20% off coupon will not work with the saw mill. I tried one onetime on their online site and it wouldn't accept the coupon for that item.


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## fordnut

well H/F was no help , BUT did go ahead and buy a mill ended up with a Timbery M285 w/ 20hp twin it comes on its own trailer , WOW you talk about a wood cutting sawdust making machine ,, haven't figured out all the in's and out's completely yet (only have ran it 6hrs ) the funny part is my wife talked me into steppin up and buyin the more expensive model , bless her heart , I am really glad I did ,we had some 17+ inch yellow pines that a storm took down cut them into 12ft lengths that saw just flew through them like hot butter . have really enjoyed this saw looking forward to makin more saw dust and boards LOL ,I can see a new barn in my near future !!


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## woodnthings

http://www.timbery.com/m285.html


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## honesttjohn

Those look cool. How do they cut and hold up???

Picking one up fully assembled at the dealer and just hooking to the trailer seems to be a plus.

HJ


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## fordnut

really like my saw H/John , my friend has on of the H/F mills similar to the woodland mills 126 it saws well but the ease of taking the mill down to where the tree's were down put the chipper on the back of the tractor trimmed and chipped the limbs on the spot set up the mill (takes about 10 mins) cut logs to length sawed them up took them to the barn put bush hog on the tractor run thru the chips and saw dust ,no mess , found out why the wife wanted me to get the one on the trailer , it was for the above she said no mess in her barn lot to clean LOL :laughing: seems she not only pretty but pretty smart too


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## fordnut

hey honesttjohn a few months in to having the timbery mill and having run over 3000 b/f thru (mostly poplar) I still love my mill , found that the bark and the dirt it carries is NOT your blades friend but since the sap is up have been peeling the logs makes a big difference in blade life have cut some logs that were a lot to large for my mill but a little creativity with a chainsaw was cutting 23+ inch wide boards 4" thick and 16" feet long, glad I have forks on my tractor to help off load those cuts . have had no trouble out of the mill other than problems I caused by my own inexperience still grinning and having a blast with it


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## mikeswoods

Any updates or pictures from mill owners?

I've been following this thread from day one----and sure would like to know how you guys are doing.


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## georger

SO I finally had a chance to set up my mill and have been messing around with it on and off for the past month, btw, those mods I done past winter worked out great, I have been flat sawing 5.5" slabs, turn them on the side and got quartersawn 2x6, so far they have been holding up just fine

my only complaint is I seem to go through blades quite quickly, a log or 2 and it starts drifting, I tried hand sharpening and I am pretty good with a grinder but I was not too happy with the result as I was doing it and sure enough a few cuts into it and it starts drifting, I considered my inexperience may have something to do with it, feed rate, water drip, etc, doesn't make any difference, from what I read this is about as much as one is to expect between sharpening, but honestly, at about $15 a blade I am not so sure weather its worth the trouble, not even considering, shipping and the cost of the mill, gas and the free logs I got of my property or my time for that matter, I got my blades from cooks and I know they have a re sharpening service but even the lady I spoke to mentioned between shipping back and forth it may just be better to buy new.

so question is how do you guys go about it? last I looked at sharpening machines they were about a grand, fine I guess if you have a 25k mill, not the case here, plus a tooth setter, there are a few local saw mill guys, I'll call them and see what they do about it, if I wasn't in the middle of 10 other more important projects I'd build something, but for the time being I don't have neither the time nor do I feel like spending as much as the mill on sharpening tools,


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## HRT87

Watch this youtube video, http://tinyurl.com/qez989l

I use this method and have had great results on my shop grinder. I have sharpened my WOODMASTER C-SHARP blades several times and they work as good as new after sharpening.

Length - Feet: 12
Width - TPI - Side Set - Hook Angle: 1-1/4" x 0.042 x 1.1T 0.022 Side Set 7 Degree

Monte Hines
Hines Farm Blog
HF Sawmill - http://tinyurl.com/mx22jjm


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## georger

I tried something like that and did not have too much luck, granted I am still learning, and I am a bit of a geek, I noticed they are harder to push through as they get duller, I have also had them drifting but that also happened with a fresh blade depending on knots and tension in the log, the ones I hand sharpened did ok for a hand full of cuts and than they started drifting, granted it may have a lot more to do with just how sharp the blade is, but if the cut is wavy I am wasting my time, and I got lots of logs I'd like to mill


----------



## fordnut

hey georger , new at this mill thing myself , but have found out there are #1 different pitch blades for different types of wood , as far as dulling goes as I said in a earlier post the bark and the dirt it carries is not your friend especially on the leading edge of your blade { where the cutting tooth meets the log },but have also found that blade tension is VERY important makes blade chatter , wander and generally makes the cutting time longer per cut , I run the timbery blades in my mill 10 degree for soft woods and 7 degree blades if remember right for oak , hickory and such my friend has one of those H/F mills and we spent one whole day playing with the guides and blade tension getting to run true and cut flat


----------



## georger

I may have to revisit the guides, last I looked at it I did not see a whole of adjustments on that, I think the only thing you can adjust is the gap the blade rides in. first I thought it may be in the tension and such, I keep mine pretty tight, thou one thing I noticed sometimes is in the wood you are cutting, this one cant I was working on today, got a horrible cut on one side, turned it around and it cut right again, I think it was in the knots and tension in the wood, 

so far one decent hobby setup I saw for resharpening is from woodland mills, most others are overcomplicated, large and heavy and expensive, but even this one was about 700, and I still have to figure out a setter, woodmiser shows a 1200 machine do it all, but honestly it was too much, had an oil bath etc


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## Maddski

My mill is set up and running well! Learning curve taking some time! Some curvy cuts but for the most part good boards. Ruff cut means just that! If you want perfect finish buy a planer. I have only cut twenty logs or so and changed blade around number ten. Building three deer blinds and building new stalls in my cattle barn. I am very satisfied with the result from my mill. If you want perfect cuts I think you would have to add some bracing on the back of the mill to help stabilize it alittle better. And push it a lot slower. Just some suggestions !


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## georger

all valid points, and I have suspected them all, reality is I have been milling some very large logs, if you were reading last winter I have modified my mill to handle considerably more than the original specs, so far I only have 1 log set aside that I could not mill, I also noticed some of those had quite a bit of tension in the wood, the cut board curling up considerably while the remaining cant stayed true to the blade, some of that may be the cause of some of the wavy cuts, mind you all of these logs are poplar/cottonwood, fuzzy stuff, tends to get stuck to the teeth


----------



## 300k

Hi all of you harbor freight bandsaw owners, with all your insight I bought one too. Cost $2270 for model 62322 with the 301 cc predator engine. Noticed in the engine manual that use above 3000 ft requires a high altitude kit for the carb. ( smaller jet ) but HF does not have these parts yet and do not know when it will be available. But use without voids the engine warranty, catch 22 yes, and this from the CA warehouse manager, he is sending me the 212 cc high altitude kit instead, bad idea as the engine will overheat running that lean. 
Does anyone out there know what the jet size should be .000" ?! Thank you all


----------



## georger

no input on the high altitude kit, thou I thought most fuel mixture jets are adjustable, most carbs have a idle air mixture adjustment screw and a running fuel mixture screw, haven't looked at this one.

as for getting some decent cuts, I got it dialed in pretty decent, the trick was to crank it all the way up slow down the feed rate to snail pace and change blades often, I milled a 24" log recently, started with a reasonably used blade, it started wondering just as I got it squared, put a new blade on and got some really nice even boards.

I use Cooks blades and while they cut with very little resistance, even after they have dulled some, they do start to wonder after so many cuts, yet they make saw dust just fine, I mill cottonwood/poplar, the nature of the wood fibers and the very thick bark ( dirt ) may be contributing to my experience, some of the freshly milled logs its quite a chore to debark them but I am about done with those , I have done one that was dropped last winter and the bark fell off.

I could not do 10 logs with a blade, I done some smaller 12" logs 2 a blade, but honestly by the time I got the crooked out of them I got maybe a handful 2x6 each.

well anyways this is my experience, as for resharpening, I have been doing it with a dremel, they cut as good as new but not as long, they start wondering a few boards sooner, works for now but tedious and I am not as consistent as a machine, I have not found a ready sharpener I had to have, one thing I found, is that most manufacturers use their own tooth pattern and they will tell you that they do not recommend it for blades other than their own, in my case that would be cooks at 2k, I found the WM to be the best value, also the one that the Canadian boys claim as their own which is actually Logosol, Ironically they sell it for about 2/3 what logosol is asking, maybe it is a cheap Chinese clone but by the time you add a tooth setter you might as well get the WM machine which does both, if you use their blades, that or yours will be converted to a WM pattern.

the Cooks cat claw is the only one I know of with interchangeable cams, I assume to sharpen other patterns than their own, likely I will have to build something, I did not want to build the mill as this one was priced right and I did not have the time, looks like I may have to make time for the sharpener.


----------



## 300k

*More about my Harbor Freight bandsaw mill*

I have decided to add 6 ft to the frame to cut larger cants. I bought 12 ft of 6061 Aluminium 2 1/2 X 3 1/2 angle. I am using this metal because I can grind or cut it with ordinary homeowner tools. I am a machinest but I am retired and have no access to the machines I would need. Plus this is to be added to the head of the rack where there will not be much weight on it. The bandsaw takes up about 3 ft of this area of the rack so it only has to cope with the heads weight. I also bought 4 X 6 aluminium box tubing for the connectors, these will also be under the head , so should work fine. A little aluminium welding and I am ready to go . Big benefit is this makes the addition very light, helps us old men cope.
Question for any and all Sayers: do any of you find the 7-9 hp predator engine too small? Thanks all


----------



## nuttin tour

Not really you just have to go slow I put the 13 hp electric start on an it made it a little faster just keep sharp blades on it an let it cut don't push to fast.


----------



## 300k

*Cheap blade setter*

I saw a real cheap blade set on eBay, it amount to two pieces of angle guide pined with split dowels, and has nuts welded to adjust the hight of the blade and another set of nut welded to the top the push the blade cutting edge over with another set of cap screws. So the setting operation is to mount this in a vise and move the blade to the correct spot and clamp the vise and move again.
I have finished my aluminium tracks, I found that the angle is not a right angle so I shimmed the opposite leg to make the rail straight up, then clamped the original rail to mine and used a power grinder and flap wheel to cut it closer to the same height and finished it with a vixen file, it now looks like it was machined.


----------



## panther49

*Latest project. Picnic table.*

My latest project is a picnic table.
This is the largest bole I have cut with the HF Sawmill.
It is 17 iches in diameter and 15'-7" long.
I'll post the progress soon.


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## panther49

*Picnic Table Follow up*

I managed to get 5 good sized boards out of the log.
They are 2 1/2 inch thick.
I coated the undersides with Timbor, followed by two coats of asphalt fence pain.
The tops have two coats of heavy duty sealer in natural color.


----------



## panther49

*Picnic Table F/U*

The bases are in place.
6 legs of PT 8 inch posts sunk 27 inches deep and 6 supports of 2 x 6.
The supports for the benches will be intalled next week. See ya!


----------



## panther49

*Picnic Table F/U*

Pics of the bases.


----------



## dukecrazy

Just recently purchased and setup my HF mill and man do I love it! As soon as we got it together we threw a log on to test it out and she didn't disappoint. 










(My Dad pictured)


----------



## Bill Space

Glad to see this thread is still active!

I got nothing cut this year with mine. Fell 10 feet off an aluminum plank onto concrete July 6th and that put me out of commission for several months. And all I did was break my left heel. But at 68 things move slower I guess. Back to normal now though!

I just got an email from Harbor freight showing the sawmill is on sale for $1799.99 . 

Coupon code 41887599 if anyone is interested. I don't see an expiration date on this coupon which is strange. It does say "on line" only. Other coupons in the email that have expiration dates are listed as expiring on February 14.

Bill


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## Shrimper

Thanks Bill...

Finally ordered the mill, $1,799 with your coupon code + shipping and tax came to $2,060 total. 

Went to Cook's and ordered a ten pack of blades. Happy to see they sell blades specifically for the Harbor Freight Mill. Already got my stockpile of Douglas Fir and Western Red Cedar logs waiting to be milled, I'll keep you all posted how things go.


----------



## jimmy mc

*gutting straight*

To all of you that are having trouble with the saw waving and drifting. Mine started off cutting as flat as could be. After a while it started drifting and cutting wavy boards. When I put on a new blade it would cut straight again. After quite a bit of cutting it didn't gut straight even with a new blade. Time to fix the problem.
What I found was the blade guides were worn and the blade bearings were bad. I ordered new bearings from Ebay. The guides were not available. There is just a little adjustment in the guides not enough to fix the wear. So I took them out and turned them over and used the other side. When this side wears out. You will need a new set, or will need to make some.
If your saw is not cutting straight your setup is not right. Take a look at everything, the rails, the blade, the guides, bearings, everything. I have cut a lot of lumber with mine and it cuts as good now as it did when I got it. My B.I.L. has a $30K Woodmizzer. He came over to see mine cut a while back. He hated to but he admitted mine cut just as good lumber as his. Only a lot slower and with a lot more work.
I can still take a 15 inch 10foot cant and cut a 1/8 in thick board full length. Set them straight and square, and they will gut as good as any. If anyone out there wants to set up and make guides for these put me down for some.

Jimmy


----------



## georger

I have cut logs as wide as 26" I believe, I got a couple set aside that were just a tad too big, 28" I believe, I'll check next time I am out there, the following log from that tree milled just fine and even these 2 with a bit of slabing on the thicker end I should be able to mill .


now keep in mind I did modify my saw head, and with this size logs, fuzzy cottonwood too, about a blade per log to get some decent cuts, I have been starting with a used blade to cant and take the bark and dirt out, after which a new blade been taking off 6 " slabs turned them and got quartersawn 2x6s, some heavy equipment has been used handling these logs, even some of the 6" slabs were too heavy.


one thing I did and forgot to post, I have noticed the logs never rested on the outer most cross members, at the saw head end obviously. but on the other end I moved the last cross member in to the first available set of holes, all my logs were bucked at 110" and those last 2 feet were overhanging a bit too much, I have noticed that towards the last couple boards the cant would bow under its weight screwing up the last 2 boards, much better now.


----------



## dukecrazy

Georger, do you happen to have some pics of your recent cuts and your modifications?


----------



## georger

I don't have any pictures of the cuts, but for the most part it works fine as long as I keep a sharp blade on it and go slow, as I said earlier a big log will wear a blade, than I use it to square off the next one and as soon as the bark and dirt is off I switch the blade, I have been sharpening them by hand so far, I want a sharpening machine but can't quite justify the price, I may have to make one.
as for pics of mods of the saw head, you have to go back a few pages I posted them about a year ago, it involves an extra pulley, longer belt and some mods to the sheet metal shield, its pretty detailed too, I do believe I posted dimensions of exactly where to drill and how long is the belt.
the only other thing I have done since, I moved the very last cross member in to the holes before last, so it supports the logs, where it did not serve much of a purpose before, you can clearly see that in panthers post how the end of the log overhangs dam near a couple feet, I noticed that by the last couple cuts that end would sag and bow the cant messing up the cuts


----------



## Bill Space

I did not get to cut anything last year due to my falling 10' off and plank and breaking my left heel, which put me out of commission as far as jumping on and off my tractor and moving around, until the weather got bad in the fall. 

Anyway, just to keep the thread alive, and because I know we all like to see what others are doing, I thought I would make a post showing what I expect to be my next step and getting my sawmill set up in a permanent location. 

I saw an ad on craigslist for two steel I-beams 14 foot long. I replied and ended up getting them for $65 each. They are 5 inches wide and 12 inches high and should serve well as the foundation for my bandsaw track. 

We all love photos so here's a picture taken during the unloading process, as I removed them from my van. Luckily the seller also had a tractor which we used to get them into my van. They weigh about 480 pounds each and should make a good foundation for the saw.









Hope these photos work. Haven't done this for a while… Here's another of the beams sitting on the ground waiting to be used. 









I plan on putting the original sawmill rails on top of these beams and adding extensions using locally sourced angle to extend to track an additional 10 feet. I bet those little pieces of angle iron will cost as much as I paid for these beams, or more.

Wish me luck!

Bill


----------



## bacononeactual

Thanks for keeping the thread alive. Got my mill uncovered since we've had some unseasonably warm weather here and Michigan, put in new gas and was glad to see that it fired right up. I did have two issues however. 

First, there is some kind of vent hose, perhaps a breather tube of some sort on top of the gas tank that had cracked open during the winter. Not sure what that hose does, but it didn't seem to hurt anything anyway. I'll probably just put some duct tape on it to keep out dust.

I had to replace the drive belt which turned out to be harder than I thought it would because I couldn't get it tight without the engine twisting. I tried all sorts of things from putting a small jack on one corner to tightening screws in different orders. Anybody else done this successfully? Maybe I just didn't need it as tight as I thought.


----------



## Montucky

*Harbor Freight vs. Woodland sawmills*

I recently purchased the Harbor Freight sawmill and so far am very pleased with it. I have read many forums that said it had assembly issues. However, I had no problem setting this mill up. The head was heavy and took a couple of us to lift it onto the rails after I put it together, but that was the hardest part by far. I wanted to extend my mill so I contacted Woodland mills and they told me they will not sell parts to people who do not buy their mill. I wanted to compare quality by purchasing more rails from Woodland, but they will not sell them to me. They quit talking to me soon after I asked about the rails being similar to Harbor Freight's rail system. I am in the market to buy another mill and will not be purchasing one from Woodland mills. I had read that they had good customer service, but my experience says otherwise. Good customer service does not come with bias. Too bad Woodland has too much business to need my business. Will not be purchasing anything from Woodland.


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## dukecrazy

So I'm having some issues with my hf mill. It seems to have happened after some maintenance and a blade change. The blade is right and the tracking seems good from checking it out. However now all of a sudden after I get about 6 inches into my cut the blade rises up the log and stays that way the rest of the cut. Also, after about halfway down the cut my back left wheel (engine side) jumps off track sometimes. Any ideas?


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## 300k

*Blade torque*

Sir, how tight is the blade, I read that 35-40 foot pounds torque is the right setting for these size machines, you have to weld a hex or old socket on the tightening handle to use a torque wrench on it. I am thinking this might be the solution to the problem, as it would prevent the blade from riding up the log and pushing the blade off the drive wheel. Hope this helps


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## newb

Are you sure your whole powerhead isn't climbing, that's along ways.


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## newb

Oh , never mind I just re read your post I thought you said it was raising up 6 inches.


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## dukecrazy

Yea, I've checked the tension but next thing on the list is just to go ahead and replace the blade to eliminate from the equation.


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## DannysCam

blades inside out or backwards


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## dukecrazy

Blade is for sure not inside out or backwards, lol.

Sorry for not posting sooner but I had surgery Wednesday and haven't been able to work on the mill but once I am able I'll be sure to update what I find.


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## bacononeactual

Wheel jumping off is tracks not aligned properly or end of tracks not touching.


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## volleypc

*Help with alignment*

I need some help with alignment. If I am standing behind the motor, the wheel on the right side has the blade running back on the wheel (not towards the cutting edge of the blade). When I look through the manual I see how to make adjustments on the left wheel. Do the adjustments on the left wheel affect the right wheel? Do I need to adjust the bolt behind the right wheel instead? I just want to get some clarification before I start making modifications. This is something I have been putting off for a while because I was afraid I would mess something up. I know this is a bit confusing, but hopefully someone can help.


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## DannysCam

*sawmill trailer/track upgrade*

hey guys i just finished my track upgrade and sawmill trailer heres a video i did i used 2. 1/2 angle iron


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## georger

dukecrazy said:


> So I'm having some issues with my hf mill. It seems to have happened after some maintenance and a blade change. The blade is right and the tracking seems good from checking it out. However now all of a sudden after I get about 6 inches into my cut the blade rises up the log and stays that way the rest of the cut. Also, after about halfway down the cut my back left wheel (engine side) jumps off track sometimes. Any ideas?


mine starts acting as such when the blade is getting dull, matter of fact it first starts cutting wavy, in the beginning I did not think much of it and kept going till the blade would either climb straight up or down, now I change my blade at the first sign of wavy cut, I can clearly feel a difference in how much easier a fresh blade cuts, I usually rev it all the way and push slow and let the blade do the cutting.


the trick is when you cut wide planks its that much more difficult for the saw head to keep a straight cut, I have had some large logs that I used 2 blades to mill, I heard people claiming to cut 10 logs before a blade change, 6 inchers, sure, provided you don't care that the last half of your boards are funky, and than there's the old excuse, its rough cut, and that's why they call it as such.


I do need a good blade sharpener and setter, so far I have been touching them up with a dremmel, its tedious and not very precise, not have I set the blades. just that the cost of such tools are prohibitive, most end up making their own, maybe I should come up with something


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## dukecrazy

georger said:


> mine starts acting as such when the blade is getting dull, matter of fact it first starts cutting wavy, in the beginning I did not think much of it and kept going till the blade would either climb straight up or down, now I change my blade at the first sign of wavy cut, I can clearly feel a difference in how much easier a fresh blade cuts, I usually rev it all the way and push slow and let the blade do the cutting.
> 
> 
> the trick is when you cut wide planks its that much more difficult for the saw head to keep a straight cut, I have had some large logs that I used 2 blades to mill, I heard people claiming to cut 10 logs before a blade change, 6 inchers, sure, provided you don't care that the last half of your boards are funky, and than there's the old excuse, its rough cut, and that's why they call it as such.
> 
> 
> I do need a good blade sharpener and setter, so far I have been touching them up with a dremmel, its tedious and not very precise, not have I set the blades. just that the cost of such tools are prohibitive, most end up making their own, maybe I should come up with something


I'm gonna go ahead and change blades then on your advice and see how that works. Also gonna check the rails and recheck my level.


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## volleypc

I had some time to spend on the mill this weekend and was able to get everything aligned. It was easier than I expected. I think the key was just making small adjustments at a time. Anyway, it was great having it up and running again. I did notice my rail has gotten a little out of level so I am going to work on it this week and I should be back in business. I have some cypress I need to mill in order to make some top bar beehives. Hopefully I can get that all knocked out this weekend.


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## skidplate100

I have been reading this forum for about 3 years, Its a great place for advice and all. wanted to say thanks. I have build a trailer for mine with an old double axle camper. made a deck, build a cow/pig barn. latest project is a 30x40 gambrel trussed pole barn. I will try to post pictures.. This thread has been dead for months.. Joe from Andes NY


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## MillingFreak

Well hasn't been any activity in this forum in 2017, does anyone know how to use a coupon on this sawmill. They say, "The item is excluded from *certain coupon* offers. Please check the coupon for details.
An additional lift-gate charge may apply." When then say, " excluded from certain coupon offers", this leads me to believe there are certain coupons that work. I am on the fence because of the Tax I have to pay, I am almost to the price to get a Woodland WM 122. It has a Kohler motor, and the track doesn't have the gap issues, also there is a side plate that holds the carriage more solid so it doesn't twist. Also I think onthe 122, the track allows me to cut a 12' log instead of a 10'. 

Am I missing something? I am sure many of you folks researched all the budget mills before you bought the HF mill. I also know that back in the day, the coupons worked and some of the guys were able to double dip coupons making the mill a no brainer. With that said, having to pay $2,000 plus tax and shipping puts it really close to the 122. I did look at the new Hudson Hunter and Sawyer for $2,100 shipped. Its a bolt together turd with an aluminum track. For being made in america, it runs some no name China made motor and that aluminum track scares me to death. I can see rolling a log into place and bending the track in no time. 

Decisions, decisions, decisions. Thanks for your time,


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## Michael W

I bought my mill a couple of years ago using the 25% off coupon, making the saw about 1500. I really like the saw and it does exactly what I need it to do. (Hobby) ...............but for the same or similar price, it's a no brainer, go for the Woodland. IMHO.


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## DrGeorge

This is great to know. Thank you for sharing the bearing numbers, saved me from Micing and chancing getting it wrong.

Thanks again!


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## EdForest

toddheath2005 said:


> Oh I do have a bit of advice for anyone who is just getting into sawmilling. I am no expert in any way this is just my 2cents from experience. One huge mistake was letting someone I didn't know operate my mill. I try make it short its kinda funny now but I was mad as a hornet then. First got mill set up I was on fire baby nobody could stop me I was gonna be a tycoon of the milling industry. Well my ego and pride was soon smashed. I had been milling like crazy on some things I had laying around read and watched every video I could get hold of so I knew it all. I was talking and walking tall and proud. So made mistake number one! I ran an add on Craigslist stating new sawyer in town I will beat any prices guaranteed fast turnaround. There only one other guy that advertised around here and he older and slower and remember I was on fire I was smoking blades literally. Anyhow after a huge response I lined up some customers. The next day got home from work and the first of empire was waiting in the drive for me with 2 awesome black walnut logs. These were cream of the crop! I looked at him and no problem how you want them cut and when you need them? He just quietly said I want them 1/4 sawed with as many 1x6 but make sure you make them thick enough so I can plain them down to 1x then I want couple 5x7-8 for mantles. No probem I gettr done you can pick them up this time tomorrow if you like. Ok done deal. I was smiling ear to ear. Skipped in house and told my wife see baby I don't have to build airplanes anymore this is gonna work. Well I started sawing took next day off work to work on them. He showed up we went out to load them. He whipped out what I now know is a homemade gauge to check thickness he started checking and they were to thin. He was pissed. I was so excited I forgot to account for kerf plus I think I miss read the funky ruler attached to the mill. Then just when I thought it couldn't get worse I hadn't 1/4 them correctly. I thought I knew how to do it. Alfterall I knew it all. So at this point he was so mad I just wanted him gone. So it we settled up all it cost me was a day missed from work few hours of sawing and $250!! So I thought. Well I had actually never met the older slower gentleman that had been the only sawyer around here for years. If you haven't figured out yet YUP it was him! Well after my ego and puffed up on top of the world attitude was deflated he pretty much took any business I had lined up so the mill sat there like a wounded bird quiet and hoping nobody can see it. So after my wife nipping at me. Well little harsher than that.lol about what happen to my empire? So after some persuasive words from my wife that led me to my second and most important mistake to date! Like the title says DON'T EVER LET ANYONE YOU DON'T KNOW RUN YOUR MILL!!!
> 
> MISTAKE #2
> 
> so after my whipping from the guy and my wife for few days maybe weeks its been a while back. I ran another ad because the minute he left I pulled the hotshot ad. This one said NEW SAWMILL NEED SOMEONE TO TEACH ME!! it went on to say if you know how to saw I will trade you bring the logs I will let you use my mill if you teach me some things. Sounds easy enough! After many calls most I could ether tell they knew as much or less than me or laughed that the mill was from harbor freight I finally talked to a guy who sounded like he knew what he was doing and had couple good sized cedar logs. The next weekend he came out looked over the mill we shook hands and commenced to sawing. I put a new blade on loaded the first log with the skidsteer started it and said there ya go I will watch and see for a bit. Well this guy started into the fist cut and man he was pushing it like he was using a table saw cutting veneer!! The saw was bogging down clutch belt slipping then the idiot reaches over and pushes on the governor to override it the motor screaming he made it thru. I told him ya might wanna slow down a bit. He grumbled he knew what he was doing then pushed on the high lock so bad he bent the handle. Screaming away he went again! Somehow he made it thru again without blowing the engine. After that I went to house get something to fix the bent handle I hear it screaming again as I am starting to steam I all they way to the house in the garage probably 4-5 hundred feet away looking for something to fix the handle and lube it so maybe he wouldn't push so hard when I hear what sounded like a shotgun going off. I thought what the hell he do? I go flying outta garage running like mad dropped the tools on ground to find him standing there scratching his head looking at a broken blade. Now this was a brand new blade I was pretty hot so I talked with the guy I didn't want to hurt his feelings or make him feel stupid so I took the blame and said i probably put it on wrong. He agreed it was my fault and proceeded to tell me that this mill not cutting straight I must of set it up wrong. I knew it was from him going like a bat outta hell override the governor and pushing as hard as he could and he was a pretty big guy! So I said ok let me get another blade on this time I will run the mill and you can just give me some lessons along the way. Ok he said. I could tell this guy didn't know anything he might had watched a YouTube video or something. Talking he knew about different techniques and said he had worked for a mill. Maybe a long time ago and he forgot or he just a helper unloading boards. So I put the new blade on made sure all was good and tracking straight after the blow out. I told him I was gonna go get the tools I had dropped and fix the lock and lube it so maybe wouldn't have to push it to point of bending it. I said hang tight I gonna be running my mill from now on. Ok ok he said. I go get tools and my wife stopped me to see bout the noise and how its going I grumbled at her for min bout him she reminded me he was older probably wiser have patience give him time. Ok honey so I calmer now gathering the tools I dropped when I heard the mill screaming!! I gathered stuff and was walking very fast back. He got tired of waiting on me the whole 3 min I was gone so he decided to go ahead and start without me. Alfterall even though it was my mill he was the teacher so he acted like it was his. I could see he was going slow I thought well maybe he actually listened and gonna be easy. The closer I got I thought he going really slow! He not moving I got closer I could hear a god awful sound! Then kaboon another shotgun sound then just motor screaming and him standing there I ran over killed the engine asked if he was ok I don't know if he was having a heart attack from the sound but he said he was ok. So I started to inspect what happened that's when he started raising hell about me wasting his time and logs and I should pay him for his time because he only made like 4 cuts and drove 30 miles and on and on. I was thinking hell with it now I have 2 broke blades bent lock I might as well cut my loss pay the guy and just get him outta there while the mill still standing!! He was demanding I pay him $100 for his gas and time! Now I was getting mad I couldn't even speak for fear I would beat the guy with my cant hook and feed him thru my wood chipper into the pond for catfish food. So here come my wife she had been watching from the house and could see that look on my face saying somebody better come save this guy before its too late! She told me to go get a cool drink of water then comeback and unload the log and she would just write a check and get him outta here. I said ok took a drink and went to unload the log that's when I saw what happen and why the blade broke. In his unwilling to wait for me somehow the the little bar that stops the blade from hitting the log stop had got moved and YUP the stop was to high and well he made it half way thru the metal stop before it exploded the blade! Holly cow I had let this guy bully me into thinking all this was my fault and then extort me for money because of my faulty equipment! I blew up my wife came to calm me down I told her she better go inside and if she sees any blood flying call the ambulance. She didn't go In because at this point she was scared to leave but she did move outta my way I proceeded to tell the guy he probably better just get in his truck and go! He was yelling about this that and not leaving without his log. I said ok I not gonna keep anyone's stuff. So I got hooked up to the log Idk what he said to my wife but she Bout five foot and weigh about a buck. All I saw was her finger pointing him backing up. So I flew off bobcat grabbed the handle looked up about the time I saw him getting in his truck and trying to start it then tear outta there!! His log still attached to the bobcat. Like I said Idk what he said but he was willing to fight me but didn't want anything to do with her.lol hell I got her beat by a foot and 160lbs.lol but then again she scares me too;-)
> 
> Sorry it was a long story and its funny now but its a very valuable lesson I learned!! Now I only one who runs my mill not because I wouldn't let them just everyone knows the story and they don't want my wife after them.lol well I let my dad run it once he was like a kid again;-) anyhow I have since learned a lot about sawing made amends with the other sawyer but have never heard from the idiot who tore the mill up. I still have his log I will keep it as a reminder of the lesson I learned....
> 
> Some might enjoy reading this some may not but we all can relate to it and I swear on the bible every bit of the story is true!!
> 
> Todd


Thanks for the two stories I registered to this Forum just so I could tell you how much it made me laugh. You should think about writing as a vocation. Thanks again


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## Space Bill

Now it’s 2022.

Glad the thread is staying alive. Good resource for owners and future owners of this or a similar mill.

I finally got mine permanently located under roof. Will try to post a couple photos if I can find them.


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## Space Bill

Space Bill said:


> Now it’s 2022.
> 
> Glad the thread is staying alive. Good resource for owners and future owners of this or a similar mill.
> 
> I finally got mine permanently located under roof. Will try to post a couple photos if I can find them.


For unknown reasons I could not log in a while back and had to register again, so the name Bill Space became Space Bill…


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## Steve Neul

Wish me luck! Debated for years to buy the saw and it just arrived.


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## dbhost

Harbor Freight band mill USED to use a Subaru engine. Reasonably reliable. Do check out the many, many, many youtube video reviews of this band mill. If it fits your needs, it fits your needs. Why pay more?


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## Steve Neul

dbhost said:


> Harbor Freight band mill USED to use a Subaru engine. Reasonably reliable. Do check out the many, many, many youtube video reviews of this band mill. If it fits your needs, it fits your needs. Why pay more?


I think it will fit my needs, I have no plans to cut lumber to sell. I just have a lot of oak and hickory trees on my property that have died and I want to try to make lumber out of it instead of the firewood I've been making for the last 35 years. I've already got some logs to play with. This saw has a 301cc Predator engine. 
.


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## Space Bill

I think it should work well for you. I need to post some pictures of my permanent installation. Been a while since I used the mill...life keeps getting in the way. LOL

What do they cost these days?.


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## Bob Bengal

Space Bill said:


> What do they cost these days?.











Saw Mill with 301cc Gas Engine


Amazing deals on this Gas Engine Saw Mill at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




www.harborfreight.com




I think that is the one, $2,400.


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## Steve Neul

Space Bill said:


> I think it should work well for you. I need to post some pictures of my permanent installation. Been a while since I used the mill...life keeps getting in the way. LOL
> 
> What do they cost these days?.


That's why I put off buying the mill, I'm afraid I won't have time to use it. 

With tax and shipping it ran about $2600.00


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## Space Bill

$2600 delivered is probably not a bad price. I think I paid $1600 probably 10 years ago. Recorded in this thread somewhere I think. Seems to be good value for the money.


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## Steve Neul

I remember for the longest time when I was looking at the saw it list for under two grand. I had even gone so far as to cut a stack of logs but except for one log that was eastern red cedar the logs rotted and I cut them into firewood. It wouldn't surprise me if the logs I've got cut didn't yield eight grand worth of lumber so I think the saw was a good investment.


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## Steve Neul

Tomorrow I plan to pour a concrete slab to set the saw on but the instruction book doesn't give any dimensions. Can someone give me the size of the footprint of the saw so I know how much concrete to pour.


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## woodnthings

You had better have some experienced help. I've poured several slabs and footings in my earlier years and it wore me out. It's the hardest work I've done.
You need to know what bag mix, 5 or 6 bag and how much slump, 3" or 4". and hope the sun ain't shining, cause your sweat will puddle in the mix in Texas.








What is the difference between 5 sack and 6 sack concrete? - Cement Answers
 

What is the difference between 5 sack and 6 sack concrete?




cementanswers.com


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## Steve Neul

woodnthings said:


> You had better have some experienced help. I've poured several slabs and footings in my earlier years and it wore me out. It's the hardest work I've done.
> You need to know what bag mix, 5 or 6 bag and how much slump, 3" or 4". and hope the sun ain't shining, cause your sweat will puddle in the mix in Texas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the difference between 5 sack and 6 sack concrete? - Cement Answers
> 
> 
> What is the difference between 5 sack and 6 sack concrete?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cementanswers.com


I'm pretty well experienced with mixing cement and have a cement mixer. What I do is put about six bags of cement in my tractor bucket and lift it up above the cement mixer so all I have to do is cut the end of the bag and empty it in the mixer. Most of the labor is spreading the cement. I did do a job onetime where I mixed 120 bags of cement with a hoe. Anyway I have since changed my mind on the slab looking at videos on the saw mill. I think now I need to put the saw more off the ground due to the amount of dust the saw creates. I'm thinking of putting 4x4 posts into the ground and put 4x6 timbers over the top to set the saw on maybe having it about 16" off the ground. Then build a wooden deck behind it to walk on to operate the machine.


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## Repairman Jared

Just ordered mine a few days ago have been thinking about it for years. The last time I wanted to they were not available and neather were other inexpensive options. 

I looked at the wooland as well but they don't seem to offer any financing. HF has 0% 36 monthc on there cc. Mine came to 2681.07 delivered unless there is an extra charge for lift gate?

Anyhow I juct checked my HF account today and its on backorder  if anyone else has ordered one recently has yours shipped? I just put in an email to hf for an estimated eta. If its going to take all summer to get I may re-think the purchase.


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## KirkD

The problem I see with the HF mill is parts availability. At least Woodland mills have parts and a person you can call with alignment problems or questions. With that said I have heard a lot of issues with both on missing parts on assembly but at least Woodland seems to have sent missing hardware/parts out to those who had that happen. If I were going to get an entry level mill I would save up and get the Wood-Mizer LT15 but i am partial since I have one of their LT40HD mills. Wood-Mizer hands down is the best out there for customer service and is American made. 

If you want to read more spend some time on the Forestry Forum there is a wealth of knowlage on mills and milling there.... Then come back here for your projects with all the lumber you make


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## _Ogre

Steve Neul said:


> Tomorrow I plan to pour a concrete slab to set the saw on but the instruction book doesn't give any dimensions. Can someone give me the size of the footprint of the saw so I know how much concrete to pour.


steve, if you haven't poured the slab yet, don't. a slab under the mill will just get in the way of clean up under the mill. set it on rr ties or just logs with a flat cut on one side, i had a small mill across the street from me in NC, he never had a slab. my brother has a woodmizer on wood blocks for 5 years or more. he built the shed a couple years ago to keep it out of the weather. prior to the shed, he'd wrap it in a tarp and the mice would get under the tarp and raise hell with the sawmill. i think he keeps mostly sticker under the roof, maybe a chainsaw. first modification he did was to extend the bed to cut 24 foot logs


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## TimPa

more pics steve???

i have a Christmas tree farm with a few overgrown blocks of spruces, and have been considering a mill to cut these for ???


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## Steve Neul

_Ogre said:


> steve, if you haven't poured the slab yet, don't. a slab under the mill will just get in the way of clean up under the mill. set it on rr ties or just logs with a flat cut on one side, i had a small mill across the street from me in NC, he never had a slab. my brother has a woodmizer on wood blocks for 5 years or more. he built the shed a couple years ago to keep it out of the weather. prior to the shed, he'd wrap it in a tarp and the mice would get under the tarp and raise hell with the sawmill. i think he keeps mostly sticker under the roof, maybe a chainsaw. first modification he did was to extend the bed to cut 24 foot logs
> 
> View attachment 438400


I changed my mind on the slab. What I ended up doing is set 4x4 posts in concrete in the ground which come up 3"-4" and I fastened 4x6 treated timbers across it so the mill is roughly 10" off the ground. I located the mill next to my shop where eventually I will extend the roof out over the mill. Until then I will have to keep a tarp on it. I will just have to find a real one. Tractor supply has suspended carrying tarps except for the poly tarps you can get anywhere. 

I got the mill running a week before last and cut two red oak logs but the logs were crummy. Probably got near 400' of at best #3 common lumber. The saw ran a lot better than I expected until I managed to hit one of the log stops. It broke off a number of teeth and even though I sharpened the rest of them it ran pretty bad so I quit until I can receive the new blades I have ordered.


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## Steve Neul

TimPa said:


> more pics steve???
> 
> i have a Christmas tree farm with a few overgrown blocks of spruces, and have been considering a mill to cut these for ???


What is the diameter of the logs? If they are small by the time you square them up there might not be enough to make it worthwhile. Otherwise I think the HF saw works well.


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## Steve Neul

Repairman Jared said:


> Just ordered mine a few days ago have been thinking about it for years. The last time I wanted to they were not available and neather were other inexpensive options.
> 
> I looked at the wooland as well but they don't seem to offer any financing. HF has 0% 36 monthc on there cc. Mine came to 2681.07 delivered unless there is an extra charge for lift gate?
> 
> Anyhow I juct checked my HF account today and its on backorder  if anyone else has ordered one recently has yours shipped? I just put in an email to hf for an estimated eta. If its going to take all summer to get I may re-think the purchase.


They delivered mine about three weeks ago. They brought it out with a box truck with a lift gate. They could have set it on the ground for me but I had a tractor rigged with forks and I lifted the mill out of the truck with that. The only problem with the delivery is the shipper just showed up at my place without even letting anyone know they were coming. I was 50 miles away and my wife was 30 miles away. I had to call the shipper to find out when they could come back so I could be there. 

The saw will come in more or less a cardboard box surrounded by a metal frame. The directions were of no help, I had a lot of difficulty trying to figure out how to get the saw out of the box by myself. I ended up cutting the metal framework off the box with a sawzall. In hindsight I could have lifted the saw out with my tractor with rope but I couldn't tell where the center of gravity was. On the cover to the bandsaw on each side of the motor there is a bracket made to hold the cables you raise and lower the saw I could have attached rope to lift the saw. Strangely enough that heavy saw is just sitting loose in the crate. there isn't anything holding it other than gravity.


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## Repairman Jared

I just talked to HF this morning and the lady said they are getting shipments every 10-20 days so they should be shipping in under 20 days but its first come first serve and didn't sound like she knew how many are ahead of me. I asked why it was not listed as back ordered on the item page and she said because there getting them regularly if they could not get them then they would. Also if it goes for over 20 days in back order status they will contact you to see if you still want it, or if you would like to cancel the back order. 

I also picked up a few sets of custom forklift attachments from my buddies old tractor that he just sold. There a bit bent up/destroyed and made for his tractor only but free is free. I just put a skidsteer adapter on my tractor last fall so it should not be that hard to straighten a set out and weld or bolt a skidsteer plate on it to work on my tractor.


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## Steve Neul

Repairman Jared said:


> I just talked to HF this morning and the lady said they are getting shipments every 10-20 days so they should be shipping in under 20 days but its first come first serve and didn't sound like she knew how many are ahead of me. I asked why it was not listed as back ordered on the item page and she said because there getting them regularly if they could not get them then they would. Also if it goes for over 20 days in back order status they will contact you to see if you still want it, or if you would like to cancel the back order.
> 
> I also picked up a few sets of custom forklift attachments from my buddies old tractor that he just sold. There a bit bent up/destroyed and made for his tractor only but free is free. I just put a skidsteer adapter on my tractor last fall so it should not be that hard to straighten a set out and weld or bolt a skidsteer plate on it to work on my tractor.


The HF mill has always been a special order item. I think it took more than a month to get mine. Considering the shipping problems the country has I don't think that is too bad. 

I have a 1959 Case tractor which I made homemade fork for it out of 2x4 tubular steel. I took the bucket off the loader and made brackets to fit where the bucket mounted. The tractor will only lift about 1000 lbs so the forks where sufficient for it. I think if I didn't have the tractor with the forks I wouldn't have gotten the mill. I use it to load logs on the machine.


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## Repairman Jared

Steve Neul said:


> The HF mill has always been a special order item. I think it took more than a month to get mine. Considering the shipping problems the country has I don't think that is too bad.
> 
> I have a 1959 Case tractor which I made homemade fork for it out of 2x4 tubular steel. I took the bucket off the loader and made brackets to fit where the bucket mounted. The tractor will only lift about 1000 lbs so the forks where sufficient for it. I think if I didn't have the tractor with the forks I wouldn't have gotten the mill. I use it to load logs on the machine.


Mine won't even lift that much, or so I thought "see below". I was thinking it was only about 700 maybe its slightly more hard to say skidsteer adapter adds weight and forks. I started tearing apart the bad fork yesterday and turns out I don't have the steel to fix it with so plan to get some 2x3 tubular to replace the 2x3 heavy channel its upright was made from the second fork is fine the first he twisted the upright 90 degrees somehow. I am going to rebuild them as light as possibly to retain as much lifting capability as possible. 

The design he had was pretty simple but a bit overkill on the frame basically 3 eyelets welded on with a rod that goes between them. The top of the fork uprights have a pipe welded on that the rod goes through so you have full adjustment left and right on both sides. I plan to just take the mounting brackets and rod and weld the brackets onto a solid skitsteer plate and use that as the fork frame. Pretty sure it will work fine but will definitely test before I lift anything I care about with it. I will probably do a video/add pics if it works out should make for a super simple lightweight fork setup for these small tractors.


Kubota LA304 LoaderBreakout force (at pin):1,648 lbs
747 kgBreakout force (at 500mm):1,172 lbs
531 kgBreakout force (bucket):1,222 lbs
554 kgLift to full height (at pin):772 lbs
350 kgLift to full height (at 500mm):545 lbs
247 kg


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## Woodworking Wolf

I haven't read this entire thread, so maybe what I am going to say here has already been said...

The OP stated " I just happened to notice a small picture with a caption: [Our lowest price ever on this 7HP GAS MILL.]" Don't assume a statement like that (for anything, not just talking about the item he was looking at) means it is a fabulous price or even a good one. Retailers may set a high regular price, planning to run it on sale and be able to make claims that get people to buy (1/2 price, save $100, etc.). It used to be (talking 1990s, not sure about today) that there were rules about how much below the last lowest price an item had to be to make the claim again. The item the OP saw could have been $1,729 and they dropped it to $1,699 to make the LPE claim. They may even make a small change (like the color) to an item, and give it a new stack/model number so they can start a new series of claims. Buyer beware - don't look at how much you are "saving," research the price and see if really is good. Pricing and promotions are all about marketing and selling as many goods as possible.


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## Steve Neul

Repairman Jared said:


> Mine won't even lift that much, or so I thought "see below". I was thinking it was only about 700 maybe its slightly more hard to say skidsteer adapter adds weight and forks. I started tearing apart the bad fork yesterday and turns out I don't have the steel to fix it with so plan to get some 2x3 tubular to replace the 2x3 heavy channel its upright was made from the second fork is fine the first he twisted the upright 90 degrees somehow. I am going to rebuild them as light as possibly to retain as much lifting capability as possible.
> 
> The design he had was pretty simple but a bit overkill on the frame basically 3 eyelets welded on with a rod that goes between them. The top of the fork uprights have a pipe welded on that the rod goes through so you have full adjustment left and right on both sides. I plan to just take the mounting brackets and rod and weld the brackets onto a solid skitsteer plate and use that as the fork frame. Pretty sure it will work fine but will definitely test before I lift anything I care about with it. I will probably do a video/add pics if it works out should make for a super simple lightweight fork setup for these small tractors.
> 
> 
> Kubota LA304 LoaderBreakout force (at pin):1,648 lbs
> 747 kgBreakout force (at 500mm):1,172 lbs
> 531 kgBreakout force (bucket):1,222 lbs
> 554 kgLift to full height (at pin):772 lbs
> 350 kgLift to full height (at 500mm):545 lbs
> 247 kg


What I did on my tractor was to make a bracket like a modern JD tractor where I could quickly put different attachments on it. Then I made these forks out of 2x4 tubular steel with 3/16" sidewall. It would have held up very well for lifting but I bent one of the forks a little trying to pull up a stump. 

You are probably going to need the front loader also to rotate the logs on the mill. You can wrap a rope around the log and lift with the front loader to turn them. I probably need to get a wide tow strap for this but it didn't seem to take very much to turn the logs I did. I just used a light duty rope probably only rated around 300 lbs.


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## TimPa

Steve Neul said:


> It would have held up very well for lifting but I bent one of the forks a little trying to pull up a stump.


very impressive Steve! also impressive hydraulic pressure to bend steel like that. is that using the internal hydraulic pump, or an auxiliary/external?


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## Steve Neul

TimPa said:


> very impressive Steve! also impressive hydraulic pressure to bend steel like that. is that using the internal hydraulic pump, or an auxiliary/external?


It just bent under use using the tractor pushing with it instead of just the hydraulics. At the ends of the forks, the one pictured on the right is bent downward a little. It's no longer square with the vertical piece it's welded to. When I first made the forks it was made for a little 13 hp Kubota tractor which I could have never bent the forks with. I believe the Case has about 25 hp which is pushing the limits of the forks. Still I think if I just stay with normal use it would hold up. I just need to try to bend that fork back to square again. It sometimes makes it difficult to pick up a pallet with the forks going different directions, especially with them being 2" thick.


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## KirkD

Steve Neul said:


> You are probably going to need the front loader also to rotate the logs on the mill. You can wrap a rope around the log and lift with the front loader to turn them. I probably need to get a wide tow strap for this but it didn't seem to take very much to turn the logs I did. I just used a light duty rope probably only rated around 300 lbs.


Once a log is on the mill you can rotate them with a Cant Hook. Any log that will fit on that small of a mill can be rotated with one. I and others will tell you to *never* load or lift logs on a mill with a tractor. Set the log on a loading ramp next to the mill and roll them on with a cant hook. (with backstops up) The slightest slip and drop will damage the bed on the mill. Logrite Cant hooks are a must have tool around a mill. "Cant" have to many.  If a log gets stuck and won't turn sink one hook of a log tong into the log and use a come along hooked to your tractor loader or gently raise the loader to roll it.


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## Steve Neul

KirkD said:


> Once a log is on the mill you can rotate them with a Cant Hook. Any log that will fit on that small of a mill can be rotated with one. I and others will tell you to *never* load or lift logs on a mill with a tractor. Set the log on a loading ramp next to the mill and roll them on with a cant hook. (with backstops up) The slightest slip and drop will damage the bed on the mill. Logrite Cant hooks are a must have tool around a mill. "Cant" have to many.  If a log gets stuck and won't turn sink one hook of a log tong into the log and use a come along hooked to your tractor loader or gently raise the loader to roll it.


I'm in north Texas. The only place you might find a cant hook is in an antique shop. I don't know if it's just the HF mill but I'm easily able to gently lower a log on the mill. The mill is bolted onto 4x6 timbers, it would take a substantial drop in order to bend the rails on the mill. I thought it worked really well to wrap a rope around the log to rotate it with the tractor. I used a little 3/8" nylon rope which was able to rotate the 16" diameter oak log I was working on. I've been thinking of eventually putting an overhead hoist over the mill for that.


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## KirkD

Steve Neul said:


> I'm in north Texas. The only place you might find a cant hook is in an antique shop. I don't know if it's just the HF mill but I'm easily able to gently lower a log on the mill. The mill is bolted onto 4x6 timbers, it would take a substantial drop in order to bend the rails on the mill. I thought it worked really well to wrap a rope around the log to rotate it with the tractor. I used a little 3/8" nylon rope which was able to rotate the 16" diameter oak log I was working on. I've been thinking of eventually putting an overhead hoist over the mill for that.


You can do it however you like Steve, If you can roll it with a rope you can roll it with a Cant Hook. And once a log is a Cant you still need a cant hook.. 
Not true on log tongs you can get different flavors of them on Amazon and many other places and I bet they ship to East Texas to.


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