# Shellac on a dining room table



## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Amber shellac is a perfect match to the oak furniture in my living room and dining room. I recently used it on a coffee table that I made, and turned out excellent.

I want to get some information on how well shellac holds up when used around food and liquids. I have read some mixed information on google and want some definite information before I finish an entire table with it. If it is not durable, would it be possible to add a top coat with a medium luster?


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I also prefer the look of shellac on furniture. I like to use boiled linseed oil first, then add a few coats of amber shellac. For the table tops I like to then use a coat of dewaxed shellac followed by lacquer. The dewaxed shellac will create a good surface for the lacquer to bond to. If you prefer you could also use poly over the dewaxed shellac. Shellac doesn't offer much protection from water or chemicals found in most household cleaners, so for a top that will get used and abused.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

cheese9988 said:


> Amber shellac is a perfect match to the oak furniture in my living room and dining room. I recently used it on a coffee table that I made, and turned out excellent.
> 
> I want to get some information on how well shellac holds up when used around food and liquids. I have read some mixed information on google and want some definite information before I finish an entire table with it. If it is not durable, would it be possible to add a top coat with a medium luster?


Shellac will not hold up to the usage on a dining room table. I would use a vinyl sealer and 2 coats of pre-catalyzed lacquer for the finish if you have the capability of spraying.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

I have some experience with spraying cars. My compressor is a little small. Is lacquer prone to fisheyes or humidity problems like automotive paint is?


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Yes it is possible to get fisheyes in lacquer. Just keep the area clear of silicone and you should be home free.

Shellac is a pretty weak finish. One thing to its advantage is it is easily repaired.

Put the shellac on and then some other tougher coating such as pre-cat or post-cat lacquer/varnish. Or you could go the elbow grease route and put on a few coats of wax and buff in between. That will give you some protection and keep a thin film look. It still will need to have liquids wiped up immediately to prevent damage.


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

Believe it or not, paper plates with hot food can damage a shellac
finish. I think it must be the bleach they use in the paper. It leaves
white spots.

Put something tough of it!


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

cheese9988 said:


> I have some experience with spraying cars. My compressor is a little small. Is lacquer prone to fisheyes or humidity problems like automotive paint is?


.

There exists a fisheye eliminator for lacquer. It works fairly well. I just make sure that the surface is cleaned from contamination. If the table is new wood or has had strong chemical strippers used on it and wiped down with lacquer thinner, fisyeye should not be a problem. Humidity problems are not just lacquer related problems. High humidity, usually more than 85% may cause 'blush'. If your use lacquer retarder, you can spray in 90% humidity.
For a recoat of an unknown existing finish, use a good dewaxer and clean really good. Then shoot a vinly sealer in a test area about a foot square and wait at least 5 or 6 hours, overnight is better. Then try to scrape it off. If it scrapes off or sands off - no problem all is OK. The main thing is that it dont peel off. 
Assuming the test goes well, just coat with pre-cat lacquer over the vinyl sealer and you are done.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

It is a good thing I asked...google isn't real clear. The rest of the furniture has an amber shellac coating. However I notice that our oak flooring has a similar coloring, there must be something else that may work?


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

cheese9988 said:


> ......The rest of the furniture has an amber shellac coating. However I notice that our oak flooring has a similar coloring, there must be something else that may work?


Some lacquers are refered to as "clear". Clear actually means *amber* coloring. 
The lacquer that says "water white" is actually the one with no amber tint to it. 
Generally, for bare wood, the clear is preferred. The slight ambering actually make the wood have a better tone and a warmer look. Some woods like red oak look really kind of bland with no ambering. 
The "water white" is generally used over painted colors where the object is to preserve the color 'as is'. If the "clear were to be used, any hint of a tint would actually slightly change the color which in most cases would not be desirable. 

You will have to decide which manufacturers lacquer you want to use and see if it comes in "clear". 
Sherwin Williams has a slight ambering to their clear pre-cat lacquer. Gemini pre-cat lacquers only come in 'water white'. Another advantage if lacquers are they are very easy to tint with lacquer tints or analine dyes. Or, you could simply stain the wood and after it dries, apply the lacquer over it.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Tony B said:


> Some lacquers are refered to as "clear". Clear actually means *amber* coloring.
> The lacquer that says "water white" is actually the one with no amber tint to it.
> Generally, for bare wood, the clear is preferred. The slight ambering actually make the wood have a better tone and a warmer look. Some woods like red oak look really kind of bland with no ambering.
> The "water white" is generally used over painted colors where the object is to preserve the color 'as is'. If the "clear were to be used, any hint of a tint would actually slightly change the color which in most cases would not be desirable.
> ...


Interesting. So is it possible to get the same look using only the lacquer?


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

cheese9988 said:


> Interesting. So is it possible to get the same look using only the lacquer?


YES !!!!!!:thumbsup:


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Amber shellac has a green component to it.

I was tying to copy a set of birch drawer fronts a long time back. I tried everything, tints stains, glazes. Nothing would bet that perfect match.

One coat of amber shellac was the ticket. All that trial and error and it was a straight out of the can fix.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Tony B said:


> YES !!!!!!:thumbsup:


This site is great, thanks for the advice! :thumbsup:


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## TootsNYC (Jan 14, 2019)

This comment is coming years later, but for someone who finds this on a search:

Consider using the shellac as a base (shellac is an excellent primer and sealer), and then apply a polyacrylic (or polycrylic) instead of a polyurethane for the top layers. 

Polyacrylic (or polycrylic) is very durable, so it'll hold up on a dining room table. But it's clear and it doesn't amber, so it won't affect the color of your wood very much.
You can also lay down a new layer every year or so (if it's been much more than a year, you should scuff up the old surface first).


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