# Router Table Lift



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

This is a router lift I came up with after viewing the lift in American Woodworker. I think it removes some of the problems router tables can have. 

Table sag is removed because the lift and router don't hang on the top. It mounts on the cabinet side. It's cheap to build and the only items I needed to buy were fasteners. 

The bits are much easier to change. The top lifts up out of the way and the router is held in place while you remove the bit.

I used a threaded rod with 16 threads per inch to raise and lower the router. Very easy to make fine adjustments. One turn is 1/16".

It's assembled tight with no slop so it doesn't need locking in place. Most of the parts are quality plywood so there is almost zero movement. IMHO movement up and down over the course of its life is around an inch either way. High quality leaner bearings are a waste of money. 

One of the many changes I made were to reduce the overall size of the lift to increase accuracy. The router mounts close to the lift slides to reduce offset weight.

It uses one moving part. The slide has 5 surfaces to glide on keeping it true. 

It was also as you can see, very easy to build.

Al B Thayer

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Moorewoodwork (Jan 2, 2012)

Looks good , What I like best is its very simple. I have a tendency to overbuild stuff or over think it. Nice work

Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Very nice job, looks sturdy and that's what you want using carbide cutters:thumbsup:


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Very cool


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Thank you for posting that.
I'm in the process of creating some sort of lift and I've been chasing Steve's videos but I don't think he ever did the lift.

http://www.youtube.com/user/stevinmarin/videos


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Thanks for your comments. I plan to use more than one fence because they clamp to the top on the outside lip. You can throw one together in no time.

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.

Al


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Al, I like this design very much ... is that 1/2" ply, or 3/4"?


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## sweet willy (Jul 17, 2013)

Great design and execution. How is the top hinged? If I wasn't in the middle of a big project I'd make one for myself tomorrow!


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Chris Curl said:


> Al, I like this design very much ... is that 1/2" ply, or 3/4"?


White board 1/2" from the box stores. Surfaced with some kind of hardwood from Timbuktu. It's one of those dimensions that are a smig less than 1/2"

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

sweet willy said:


> Great design and execution. How is the top hinged? If I wasn't in the middle of a big project I'd make one for myself tomorrow!


Just a long piano hinge. 

See how easy it is to Chang the bit. I love it and use it a lot.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Chris
If you build yours with the bearings you were using. You can put set screws on the outside to adjust them to a perfect fit. I have seen that style too.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## sweet willy (Jul 17, 2013)

Al if you have a dimensional drawing or plans drawn up I would truly appreciate getting a copy. Let me know please. 
Thanks. 
Sweet Willy


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Hey Al

I admired your table when I first saw it and returned because the top on my Delta router/shaper is toast and needs to be replaced. 

Great well thought out design. However all I need is to make a top. You said that you used 1/2" white ply board with a thin hardwood ply on top?

1/2" ply does not seem to be stable enough? But you did use 1/2" and are happy with it? If it is good enough for you I will use it also!

I will copy the fence almost exactly. 

Thanks for posting the pictures. JIm


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

WOW Al - what a great lift and flip-up router table. I missed this post and enjoying it now... unfortunately, I bought an expensive (Jessem ??) lift years ago... but I'm happy with it. I do envy your flip-up top. I tend to dismount my router after I'm done using it so avoid the sagging. Simply wanted you to know I'm quite impressed with home grown router table and lift and all the very neat features (especially the flip top and the router weight on the case and not the top).


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jjrbus said:


> Hey Al
> 
> I admired your table when I first saw it and returned because the top on my Delta router/shaper is toast and needs to be replaced.
> 
> ...


I missed you post until now. If your talking about the router table top. It's a 1/4" aluminum plate. I don't recommend using this for the top. The router lift is made from 1/2" plywood. The lift works very well and is very stout. 

I had to anodize the top. Which I did in my shop. The process put on a really thick coat and it's about 100 times harder and slick. Bare aluminum doesn't work too well. Leaves black marks and wood doesn't slide on it at all.

I think this style of fence is superior to slots and is easier to adjust. Because the clamps are far apart it makes micro adjustments a snap. And then there's not having to cut the slots and mount the T slot hardware.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

BernieL said:


> WOW Al - what a great lift and flip-up router table. I missed this post and enjoying it now... unfortunately, I bought an expensive (Jessem ??) lift years ago... but I'm happy with it. I do envy your flip-up top. I tend to dismount my router after I'm done using it so avoid the sagging. Simply wanted you to know I'm quite impressed with home grown router table and lift and all the very neat features (especially the flip top and the router weight on the case and not the top).


Hey Bernie I missed you post too. Thanks for the kind words. Shoot dad the Jessem is a great lift. I found two table lifts I liked and sorta combined them. The flip top does make changing bits a pleasure now and is one of the best features. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Oh poopies. We will find out how 1/2" big box store white plywood works for the top! Too late now. Or maybe this will be the prototype?

I saw the reflection in your top and figured you must have painted it with a gloss paint.

The original top on mine was ribbed aluminum, I kept spraying it with white paint to stop the black marks.

Master Mistaker JIm


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jjrbus said:


> Oh poopies. We will find out how 1/2" big box store white plywood works for the top! Too late now. Or maybe this will be the prototype?
> 
> I saw the reflection in your top and figured you must have painted it with a gloss paint.
> 
> ...


That looks great. I'd finish it with wiping varnish if you haven't already. Any wiping varnish will soak in to the wood farther than film finish making the wood itself harder. I wipe on the first coat until it quits soaking in. Do this at the end of the day so you can let it dry overnight. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Terry1967 (Jun 1, 2014)

That is a great build you have done there I'm very Impressed keep up the excellent work ...... I would be very proud to have that in my workshop


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## Mark G (Dec 26, 2011)

Very impressive. I missed this post until now.


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## RockyMtnBlue (Mar 29, 2013)

Excellent lift


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Hi Al, very nice idea. Simplicity sometimes takes genius. Looks easy enough to make but a couple of questions:

- It looks like the lift threaded rod would be covered by a fence that you have in place. Do you find that to be an issue? (having to move the fence to make a tweak to the height of the router)
- What is the top of the threaded rod. It looks like you have some sort of hex nut there. did you just jam 2 nuts together?
- Any provisions for under table dust collection?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

PhilBa said:


> Hi Al, very nice idea. Simplicity sometimes takes genius. Looks easy enough to make but a couple of questions:
> 
> - It looks like the lift threaded rod would be covered by a fence that you have in place. Do you find that to be an issue? (having to move the fence to make a tweak to the height of the router)
> - What is the top of the threaded rod. It looks like you have some sort of hex nut there. did you just jam 2 nuts together?
> - Any provisions for under table dust collection?


Well the lifting screw did present a small problem due to being so close to the cutter. I put a notch in the base of the fence to have access. There are really good fence designs that allow split adjustable fences that would never be in the way of the adjuster rod.

The top of the rod has a nut, finder washer then a 1/2" bushing 1" long. Then another fender washer and you should use two nuts lined up to receive the socket wrench.

If you want DC under the table. Just drill a hole in the side and pipe it with a tee. 

I've advanced this design by adding a second horizontal position for the router and made some improvements in the design. This will allow slot mortise cuts and tenon joinery. Currently there is nothing like it in the market today. I'm going to sell plans soon. PM me for details.

Al


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