# I slayed that Skil Zero Clearance Insert Dragon.



## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

Just did what most said was nearly impossible. Finally figured out how to make a zero clearance insert for a Skil 3400. It's more of a hybrid insert. In is married to the 1/32 piece of garbage it came with, and completes the missing portion to span the inch wide gap. I used 1/2 inch maple 1 1/2" wide. I recessed the original one into the top of the maple, trimmed the maple around all the stupid protrusions that are present on the table, and for now anyway used hot glue to secure it to the metal plate. I'll post pics when I have used it a few times and feel its sturdy enough to feel comfortable with others building one. I have spent about a year trying someone who could make or supply one for this saw. So have many others. I've tried and failed a handful of times making a full sized ZCI, due to having to use wood so thin, and being unable to countersink screws in a piece of hardwood that is only 1/32 to begin with. 

I was in the middle of cleaning up my tiny 12x12 shop and moving it all around when inspiration struck, and I literally dropped everything. To make it worse I was also in the middle of re-piping and wall mounting my HF dust collector since I rebuilt my Thein style separator with a side inlet. So s&d pipe everywhere. And yesterday I picked up a full size 6 inch jointer, a scroll saw, and a oscillating drum sander off CL for $150, after talking him down from $300. That made it even harder to move around. How I ever manage to even move in that space that already had the table saw, 14 inch craftsman bandsaw, 12 inch compound miter saw, disc/belt sander, drill press, 2 4' work tables, and the rest of the misc stuff is beyond me. It's actually 12xalmost 11, but there is a bonus L off one corner that is about 4x8 but still. Less than 150 sq feet. Just built a shed nearly that size just to be able to cut the 1car garage in half for my shop space. That necessitated convincing wifey that she would love the laundry room I would make for her first before I start my shop in the other half of garage. Having never built anything before the 10x12x8 shed two weeks earlier, I tackled the laundry room and amazed everyone by making an awesome space. 

Ayway, I'll post pics of the ZCI soon and hopefully those who have a Skil or other low end contractor saw will be able to benefit from it. 

Thanks all.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Dude, I have a Skil 3400 too! pics please!


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

S here is my first successful attempt at a ZCI for my stupid Skil Contractor Saw. It's still what I consider a prototype so don't be too harsh folks. It works well for what there is to work with and the issues with saws like this. 









talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

A couple more angles. 








talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

This is a working prototype so don't beat me up too badly folks. It works well so far. I'll end up with a Lexan type product and have it epoxied as a permanent fix. Although that removes the option of using a dado. I'll see about getting a few stock inserts before I do so I can have a few ready to rock and roll.

talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Thanks for the pictures. Looks good for a prototype. :thumbsup:

How about one of the table top without the insert and the original insert?

We readers who are not familiar with the details of the Skill contractor saw are not able to picture the challenges the Skil saw presented to you.


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

This is the stock throat plate that comes with it. Sad really. 









talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

Joedogg707 said:


> This is the stock throat plate that comes with it. Sad really.
> 
> talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


Actually, not true. It's similar. I just found a pic on e-replacements that is exact, and also that its discontinued and no longer avail. Grrrr

talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

That gap is 3/4's of nasty, wood chewing abyss. 









talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

You can see from the bottom view that the screw holes are recessed. And from the other pic, how amazingly thin the original insert is. Can't make that from wood. No wood I've ever seen anyway. 








talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Joedogg707 said:


> That gap is 3/4's of nasty, wood chewing abyss.


Thanks, I can now understand the desire for the ZCI. That looks dangerous.

Too easy for an offcut to fall down the abyss and then anything can happen. Bad design.


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

Just so the pic police don't come knocking on my door, I borrowed the pics of the original setup showing the 3/4 inch gap, and the one measuring the thickness of the plate from "GlennsGrandson" on LJ website. Must give credit when it's due.

talk to your projects. when they talk back, it's time for a break.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Hey Joe, what do you do for a rip fence? Do you use the stock one? If so, do you find it TOO easy to lock the fence in a position that is NOT parallel to the blade? And were you able to do anything to minimize that behavior?

The only thing I have come up with so far is to pull the clamping mechanism towards me before locking it in place, which seems to help some in making it perpendicular to the measurement bar it clamps to, but I don't have much confidence that it is actually parallel.

I got a new miter gauge for mine from EReplacements.com. They might have replacement plates too.


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

No replacement plates. They are listed as "obsolete". So is my perpendicular to purchase another Skil product at this point. 

As for the fence, I've tinkered with mine a bit, and what I'm going to do is epoxy (no welder) a piece of flat aluminum to the rear of the fence that has only that tiny tab locking it down. may do the same to the front. Figure that if there's that much contact area on both ends of that awful fence it's propensity would be to lock straight. Or closer to it anyway. I'd suggest a piece of hardwood being attached to the fence at least on the back to firm it up, and reduce flexing or twisting. I don't use one on the front (sacrificial fence) since I'd have to account for that difference when using that factory measuring scale. I'll try to get it done tmrw or this weekend. I've got some other thoughts but getting a locking mechanism to function is my issue. 

Using the ZCI right now. Performing beautifully.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

i have a similar portable saw i use when friends need a hand (never trust someone else's tools!). ZCI wasn't really that hard with 1/4" material:


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## Joedogg707 (Feb 22, 2013)

That would still be too thick around the rim to fit the strange flanges that protrude from the sides of this saw. The edges can't be thicker than a business card at most. And how can you recess wood for screws at that thin of a material? It sucks. Good job on yours tho.


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