# Rockwell model 10 contractor's saw setup?



## jbonamici (Apr 25, 2007)

I recently picked up a used Model 10 TS. It has a 2hp GE motor that's running on 120. I'm attempting to diagnose why the saw seems to have no power, as it's bogging down ripping 2 x 4, which I believe it should be able to handle even on 120V. I've tried to figure out whether the motor is laboring, or the belt is slipping, but it's kind of hard to tell. Here are my thoughts: 1) maybe the belt needs replacing. As far as I know it's the original belt. 2) the pulleys seem out of alignment, unless that's how they're supposed to be. It looks like flipping the pulley at the motor would align them properly. 3) maybe the motor is dying. I don't know much about electric motors. FWIW, it doesn't seem very warm after use, and it's not shutting down. I'm thinking I should begin by replacing the belt and flipping the pulley. Any opinions about whether I should go with a stock replacement belt or a link belt? Any other thoughts? Thanks.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Not sure, but FWIW, my Ryobi BTS21 (read cheapo but best I can afford for now) table saw rips 2x4s with ease. I am certain that your Rockwell should handle that like a hot knife through butter... I would be curious to know if the motor is putting out anywhere near what it should...


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

What kind of blade are you using? The belts should be tracking.


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## jbonamici (Apr 25, 2007)

pianoman said:


> What kind of blade are you using? The belts should be tracking.


It's a pretty new Freud blade; I don't think that's a problem. I pulled the belt off and with the motor running, held a block of scrap against the motor pulley. The motor showed no signs of slowing, so I think I'm in good shape there. I'll flip the pulley around and put a new belt on. I have a feeling that will do it. Has anyone had experience with one of these belts?


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## user4178 (Apr 18, 2008)

You definatly want the pulleys lined up with eachother, and if your going to replace the V-Belt I would recommend the belt you posted, it is a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt, I was able to buy some for my equipment by the foot locally at a belt and bearing supply store called Motion Industries. You will also want to check to see if your saw blade and fence are paralell to the miter slot on the top of your table, both are adjustable, there is good info here at http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html , they also have the link belts. If the lights in your shop dim when you turn on the saw you may want to either plug it in to another circuit that has less things running on it, or have a electrician wire in a dedicated 120 or 220 circuit, and also use caution when useing an extension cord, light wieght and or long extension cords can also affect power going to the saw.


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## raymero (Dec 5, 2015)

I just recently installed a StopSaw 30" fence on my 10" Craftsman 113 series contractor tablesaw with very few alterations.Didn't have to drill any holes, just file some clearance for on miter slot and and lengthen the wheel mount for the end of the fence to keep it on the wings. Real happy with the results.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

jbonamici said:


> It's a pretty new Freud blade; I don't think that's a problem. I pulled the belt off and with the motor running, held a block of scrap against the motor pulley. The motor showed no signs of slowing, so I think I'm in good shape there. I'll flip the pulley around and put a new belt on. I have a feeling that will do it. Has anyone had experience with one of these belts?


"New" doesn't mean correct. If your new blade is an 80t laminate blade, it'll bog down the saw ripping a 2x4. 

As far as the belt goes, if the belt was slipping you'd know it by the smell of burning rubber, and the sound. You aren't running your saw off an extension cord, are you?


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## jbonamici (Apr 25, 2007)

I had forgotten all about this old thread I started, but as long as someone resurrected it I'll post the solution.

It turned out the PO had the saw wired for 220 but with a 120 plug. Once I switched the wiring to 120 it ran like a champ, and easily rips 8/4 white oak now.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

jbonamici said:


> I had forgotten all about this old thread I started, but as long as someone resurrected it I'll post the solution.
> 
> It turned out the PO had the saw wired for 220 but with a 120 plug. Once I switched the wiring to 120 it ran like a champ, and easily rips 8/4 white oak now.


He probably had the same system as the previous owner of a home I bought, there were a couple 110 outlets painted fluorescent orange in the garage, upon checking i found they were his 220 outlets.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Aw crap, i just realized i fell into the trap and commented on a 7 year old thread someone revived. Why do people keep bringing back the dead?


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