# Blotchy finish on table top



## Mick (Feb 9, 2009)

I sanded the old finish off of maple table top using 120,180&320 grit sand paper.I then applied a coat of varathane wood conditioner.After wipping off you could see blotchy areas,I tried staning one of the pieces with an oil based stain,the blotchy spots came out darker.I resanded the tops with 180& 320 grit the wood still looks blotchy, any suggestions on how to get rid of the blotches?


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

Mick....without seeing it, its hard to tell. There are some fundamental problems though with your approach. Dont skip any grits as you work your way up. Its better to use each one to remove the scratches from the previous. Second... I wonder if perhaps you are burnishing the surface in spots with such a fine paper. The burnished spots wont take the finish like the rest. And I think I would stop at ......oh..say...220. If you post some pics perhaps we can do better.


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## Mick (Feb 9, 2009)

*blotchy table*

Thank you Penny.I reapplied conditioner and wiped off this is how it looks.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

Mick....almost looks like all the old finish hasnt been removed. The shiny spots would be where the conditioner didnt penetrate. I might try some finish remover. Any idea what was on it?


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Mick,
Hard to tell from the angle of the pic, but it looks like the shiny spots were areas that got sanded more and burnished, which would tend to let the finish sit on top. The dull areas look like they weren't sanded as much with the finer grits and the finish really soaked in. I agree with 12penny. I would resand, starting at 100 and then going to 150, 180, and stopping after 220. Sand with each until the scratches look uniform. They should get progressively smaller and disappear by the time you finish the 220. One other note, the first coat of whatever on a freshly sanded surface almost always looks crappy. I just finished a cherry table top for a friend and went through the same thing. I will post pics and an explanation of what I did on a separate thread in the next day or so.
Mike Hawkins


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## Mick (Feb 9, 2009)

im not quit sure what was on it originaly,thinking lacquer.Im going to try sanding again.Thank you for your input.Looking forward to seeing those pic's Mike.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You might experiment on the underside of the table. You may have to use a chemical stripper to remove as much of whatever was on the top. Even sanding with 150x, or 180x, you'll still have hard and soft areas that are characteristic with the wood. It's also possible to "condition" the wood to the point it won't take finish too well.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

I would use chemical stripper to make sure all of the old finish is gone, and then start resanding. I am thinking like 12penny that maybe not all of the old finish has ben removed. I have been redoing some maple cabinets lately, and it is quite hard to tell if all the old finish is completely gone, until you put new finish on. Then it jumps right out at you.

Gerry


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

It is hard to tell by your photo, but I agree with the others that it really looks like the old finish wasn't completely removed. 

Typically, blotching occurs when parts of the grain are effected more fully by the stain/finish. Some woods are more prone to this problem than others. Maple and Cherry come to mind. The best way to avoid this is use a sealer prior to staining. I generally us a light cut of shellac, sand lightly and then proceed with finishing. This does require you to go a couple of shades darker with your final stain.

Oil finishes (Tung Oil and Danish Oil) are also less likely, at least in my experience, to blotch.


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