# Router for flattening Slabs



## beauman22 (Oct 7, 2014)

Hey everybody Im new here and this is my first post on the forums. I have been into woodworking for a couple years now and like to do a lot of slab tables. I like building all different types of furniture but Ive always loved welding and have been into welding much longer then woodworking so a lot of my furniture is the industrial style (metal bases wood tops) I have been paying for my slabs to be flattened for a while now and would like to do it myself to save some money. What router would you recommend for a flattening slabs ? i will be using one of those flattening jigs with a router sled and two rails. A buddy of mine said the bosch 2.25 hp plunge router that they sell at the local home depot is a great buy for the money. I really don't know anything about routers so any input would be really appreciated. thanks.

Nick


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

beauman22 said:


> Hey everybody Im new here and this is my first post on the forums. I have been into woodworking for a couple years now and like to do a lot of slab tables. I like building all different types of furniture but Ive always loved welding and have been into welding much longer then woodworking so a lot of my furniture is the industrial style (metal bases wood tops) I have been paying for my slabs to be flattened for a while now and would like to do it myself to save some money. What router would you recommend for a flattening slabs ? i will be using one of those flattening jigs with a router sled and two rails. A buddy of mine said the bosch 2.25 hp plunge router that they sell at the local home depot is a great buy for the money. I really don't know anything about routers so any input would be really appreciated. thanks.
> 
> Nick


Hi Nick, welcome to the forum:smile:
For flattening, aka planning, you need to be able to throw a fairly large cutting diameter bit with a set of flat bottom cutters. The bosch 2.25 hp (aka model 1617) is well able to do that. If you are looking at a bit more power, the bosch MR? 23 is a lot heavier and more powerful and will do the job nicely... the "?" is because it comes in 3 different flavors, MRP 23 is the plunge base version, MRC23 is the combination kit version with fixed and plunge bases and the MRF23 is fixed base only.
In reality though, virtually any quality 2HP or so router will do what you're asking, even from the Craftsman line ( which, incidentally, are pretty good routers these days). The trick for your particular job is to find a good bit. Large cutting diameter, 2" or so. Cut depth isn't particularly important as you will only be machining down a few thousands at a time. If you are doing a whole lot, you may want to check out toolstoday.com for some Amana bits with replaceable knives. Kinda spendy up front but the ability to change the cutters out may work out in the long run for you.
Good LUck:smile:


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## jacko9 (Dec 29, 2012)

*Routers*

I have a few routers including a 30 year old Bosch 3 1/2 HP monster which weighs about 16 pounds but, the newest one I got is the Bosch MRF23EVS 2.3 Horse Power Electronic VS which is the updated version of the 1617 model. The newer model has the switch in the handle for better control and pushes a 1/2" dovetail bit with ease.

If you want to go pricy take a look at the Festool line with dust collection but that combination will run you about $1500 (with the dust extractor).

Bosch and Porter Cable make very good mid and high power routers.

Jack


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

I have the Bosch you speak of and have used a 1-3/4" bit to do exactly what you're trying to do. I used it on some walnut and also.some hickory with no issues. I have since bought a Triton 3+ hp that will get that duty next go though.

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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

jschaben said:


> Hi Nick, welcome to the forum:smile:
> For flattening, aka planning, you need to be able to throw a fairly large cutting diameter bit with a set of flat bottom cutters. The bosch 2.25 hp (aka model 1617) is well able to do that. If you are looking at a bit more power, the bosch MR? 23 is a lot heavier and more powerful and will do the job nicely... the "?" is because it comes in 3 different flavors, MRP 23 is the plunge base version, MRC23 is the combination kit version with fixed and plunge bases and the MRF23 is fixed base only.
> In reality though, virtually *any quality 2HP or so router will do what you're asking,* even from the Craftsman line ( which, incidentally, are pretty good routers these days). The trick for your particular job is to find a good bit. *Large cutting diameter, 2" or so. Cut depth isn't particularly important as you will only be machining down a few thousands at a time.* If you are doing a whole lot, you may want to check out toolstoday.com for some Amana bits with replaceable knives. Kinda spendy up front but the ability to change the cutters out may work out in the long run for you.
> Good LUck:smile:


Cut depth is important when the slab is really bad jacked up. You might be skimming the surface in one spot and taking out a 1/2" deep at another place. 

Sleds have to be tall enough to fit over slab AND take into account any differences in height of the workpiece while still moving freely so longer bits (and much smaller diameter) are generally what I use currently.

Your post has me wondering if I should build a different sled for surfacing slabs now... :smile:

If I built a sled that was intended to use wider cutting diameter bits but built so the sled would adjust to the height instead of adjusting with the router and useable length of the bit being used at the time?


Curious what other members do here with respect to the bits they use for slab surfacing and the sleds they use.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

The Bosch router and several others have variable speed settings which would be good for slinging large cutters. When cutting panels for raised panel doors, I ran the Bosch 1617 at it's slowest speed. Worked like a champ. The big Triton does also, but it is a lot heavier. I don't know if that would be a help or hinder. I guess it would depend on how well the jig is built.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

What I have been doing lately for that type of job is making a couple of unpowered passes to locate the highest point and work down from there. I also use the MRP 23 slinging a 2" dado cleanout bit. The MRP does have a 2+" plunge range so I have just needed to use the router to control the depth. Actual process would depend on your own equipment. I do need to mention that I usually am only planning overspray off signs so the workpiece is already pretty flat, not like I'm planning a rough cut slab. :smile:
O'neail - I have a Woodhaven sled I use on occasion and it is plenty deep, about 4" IIRC and the workpiece can be shimmed up to accommodate the router depth of cut. I don't use it much for signs as I can make a quick n' dirty little jig to handle those in less time than it takes to set up the Woodhaven.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

jschaben said:


> O'neail - I have a Woodhaven sled I use on occasion and it is plenty deep, about 4" IIRC and the workpiece can be shimmed up to accommodate the router depth of cut. I don't use it much for signs as I can make a quick n' dirty little jig to handle those in less time than it takes to set up the Woodhaven.


Thanks for the info. I looked up that sled you mentioned and see what you are talking about now. The pictures of it on their website made it a lot easier for me to see what you are doing with those wider diameter bits... :thumbsup:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Thanks for the info. I looked up that sled you mentioned and see what you are talking about now. The pictures of it on their website made it a lot easier for me to see what you are doing with those wider diameter bits... :thumbsup:


Glad to be able to help:smile:. The jig can be considered kinda spendy and I only got it because I had a Xmas gift certificate a couple of years ago I didn't really know what to do with. On the other hand it is pretty cheap compared to a wide planner or sander. I, personally, don't really do enough large stuff to justify it but as long as I got it, I'll use it. If you have any questions about it I'll be happy to try and help.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

jschaben said:


> Glad to be able to help:smile:. The jig can be considered kinda spendy and I only got it because I had a Xmas gift certificate a couple of years ago I didn't really know what to do with. On the other hand it is pretty cheap compared to a wide planner or sander. I, personally, don't really do enough large stuff to justify it but as long as I got it, I'll use it. If you have any questions about it I'll be happy to try and help.


Glad guys like you come here to share your knowledge and experience... :thumbsup:


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## tinstar (Mar 5, 2014)

Beauman,
I welded my sled together using angle iron. I can't post pics right now( not sure why) but it's two pieces of angle, parallel, at whatever size sled you want. They're separated by the width of the router base so the router rides in a "track". Then weld two short pieces of angle on the ends, underneath the track, facing down. The short angle will give the height above the slab. I built mine to slide on two rails of 2" square tube. I hope this makes sense, I'll try to find and post pics.


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## tinstar (Mar 5, 2014)

Here are some pics.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

tinstar said:


> Here are some pics.
> 
> View attachment 100195
> 
> ...



Thanks. I sent your pics to a buddy. He said he could make me one. :thumbsup: I buy, he weldsit!  It's good to have friends like him.
I think I will buy his ticket to the Super Chevy Show this weekend at Royal Purple Raceway in Baytown, Tx.


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## jacko9 (Dec 29, 2012)

*Mid sized routers*

I just received my new copy of Fine Woodworking magazine and they did a review of mid-sized routers. If you don't subscribe your local library might have a copy (our library does).

They rated the Bosch MRF23EVS 2.3 Horse Power Electronic VS as the Best Overall out of the ones tested with the least amount of spindle runout and the best handling.

I bought this router a few months back (on a recommendation from the folks at Leigh Dovetail) and I like it a whole lot. It has a smooth start and never seems to bog down. I think it would be a great router for your application.

Jack


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

tinstar said:


> Here are some pics.
> 
> View attachment 100195
> 
> ...


THAT was badass. :yes:

I got one like that but out of wood. YOU sir, just put my wood sled to shame... :thumbsup:


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## tinstar (Mar 5, 2014)

MT, if I were making a new one, I would use 1/4" thick angle. I think mine flexes a bit if you push down to hard. Also don't paint it if not necessary, the router base seems to stick to the paint making a less than smooth pass. Maybe a waxed surface would be better?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

tinstar said:


> MT, if I were making a new one, I would use 1/4" thick angle. I think mine flexes a bit if you push down to hard. Also don't paint it if not necessary, the router base seems to stick to the paint making a less than smooth pass. Maybe a waxed surface would be better?


Will do. Thanks.
Mike


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## beauman22 (Oct 7, 2014)

Thanks for all the input everyone. After reading all your posts and reading some reviews on other sites I wound up going with the craftsman 2.5 hp combo router. I usually avoid craftsman but was surprised at the amount of positive reviews this router received.

So far out of the box it seems to be a good quality.

I will be trying it out this weekend. I got a nice little coffee table size piece of black walnut. 




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## beauman22 (Oct 7, 2014)

Like I said new here so unsure of how to reply or quote people individually on the app haha. 

I was planning on making a sled the way I saw on the wood whisperer. Really bare bones design. After seeing the angle iron sled that was posted I'm thinking about doing it that way with the square tubing rails. My only concern is the router not being able to slide well in the angle. Thank you for posting that by the way.!


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> My only concern is the router not being able to slide well in the angle.


After a good cleaning with a wire brush or wire wheel on a grinder, a good coat of paste wax should help a lot.


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## tinstar (Mar 5, 2014)

I would use a grinder with 50 grit sandpaper. Sand the angle before welding to make it easier. I think the paint on mine is what caused a little friction, it slides fine but without paint it would be better. I set the tracks about 1/2" wider than my router base. Keep in mind that the inside corner of the angle has a slight radius


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## beauman22 (Oct 7, 2014)

Flattened my first slab today with the craftsman router. It did an awesome job. I used a 3/4 bit but the piece was small so it didn't take too long. Going to get one of the bigger ones soon. My only complaint was the the plunge base got stuck and wouldn't retract. Needed a little bit of work and it was working again. Kind of frustrating since it was the first time!




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