# baseboard question?



## Yeti (Apr 26, 2011)

I started installing new baseboard in one of my bedrooms this weekend. The drywallers set the drywall about a half inch off the subfloor so when I nail up the baseboard the bottom seems to be too close to the wall so my coped inside corners are tight at the top but way open at the bottom. What's the trick to getting the bottom of the base to come out to get a nice tight inside corner?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could just shim it.










 







.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

The problem comes from the bevel in the sheetrock.
Cabman is correct in saying you need to shim it, however.......

A trick I use is to install drywall screws in the lower part of the bevel and leave the heads sticking out so they are flush to the plane of the wall.
If you need to adjust for a better fit in your corners, just turn the screw in or out as needed.

Hope this helps
Tom


----------



## Yeti (Apr 26, 2011)

The drywall screw is an interesting idea I might have to try. I assumed I would have to shim, I guess I was more wondering how or what you use to shim and how you get back there to adjust the shim.
I'm also installing in a room that is already carpeted, so it's been an even bigger challenge.


----------



## MNsawyergp (Jan 31, 2012)

I learned to lift up the far end of the bace pieces, about 2-3* out of horizantal from my saw bed, then cut my 45* cut for the cope. This makes the cope fit that tilt angle caused by the drywall. I have roller stands that can be adjusted so I just raise them until the base is lifted off the saw bed about 1/16th at the outer edge of the saw. Just play with a scrap until you get a good fit and save that scrap to test other pieces. After a while you will get a feel for just how much to adjust it. Putting a screw in is another good trick I use when there is a deep cavern.


----------



## Jdub2083 (Feb 18, 2012)

tcleve4911 said:


> The problem comes from the bevel in the sheetrock.
> Cabman is correct in saying you need to shim it, however.......
> 
> *A trick I use is to install drywall screws in the lower part of the bevel and leave the heads sticking out so they are flush to the plane of the wall.
> ...


+1 :yes:


----------



## toollovingschultz (Jan 10, 2011)

If you have 1/2 inxh at the bottom you can rip some wood 7/16 high and 1/2 or 9/16 thick just short blocks about 4 inches long and place the blocks in the corners under the drywall or where there is a joint in the trim it will keep these tight. You can manufacture a bunch of blocks in just a few minutes. I have used this method a number of times.
Andy


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

tcleve4911 said:


> The problem comes from the bevel in the sheetrock.
> Cabman is correct in saying you need to shim it, however.......
> 
> A trick I use is to install drywall screws in the lower part of the bevel and leave the heads sticking out so they are flush to the plane of the wall.
> ...


+2, you can try mudding in the drywall taper, takes much less time with screws and it's adjustable.


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

+3 on the drywall screws. Been doing that for over 20 years. Helps to keep the base in place after the carpet guys get done pushing on it with their stretchers.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

tcleve4911 said:


> The problem comes from the bevel in the sheetrock.
> Cabman is correct in saying you need to shim it, however.......
> 
> A trick I use is to install drywall screws in the lower part of the bevel and leave the heads sticking out so they are flush to the plane of the wall.
> ...


What a great idea! I can't tell you how many times I've become frustrated while trying to shim base and having the shims drop and become useless. I tried spitting on them to give 'em a little stickum, had gum in my mouth one time and used a dab. That works better than spit but gross right?

The screw acts as a micro-adjustable shim. Brilliant!

I are now ejumakatid! Thanks Tom.


----------



## mcmBen (May 9, 2011)

I know this is an old thread, but I use a 8d nail in the lower drywall recession, leave it a bit proud of flat from the drywall's flat surface. This way when you install the baseboard and cope to it, you can tap it until it looks just the way you like it. Works very nicely!


----------



## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

jharris said:


> What a great idea! I can't tell you how many times I've become frustrated while trying to shim base and having the shims drop and become useless. I tried spitting on them to give 'em a little stickum, had gum in my mouth one time and used a dab. That works better than spit but gross right?
> 
> The screw acts as a micro-adjustable shim. Brilliant!
> 
> I are now ejumakatid! Thanks Tom.


You are very welcome.
I'm glad someone came away with a good trick from this thread.:yes:


----------

