# Need replacement for discontinued Delta throat plate



## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Hi there,

I have a *Delta 36-979* 10-inch left-tilt contractors saw that I purchased new back in 2009 or 2010.

The saw has been in storage for years until I dusted it off this weekend. Unfortunately, the bright *red throat plate* became *badly warped* in storage (no idea how this happened) and one edge was broken.

The part I need is discontinued, and I haven't had any luck tracking down a *compatible replacement part*. Maybe someone here can help with some advice or suggestions.

Here's what the part looks like:










Details:

Part #: Delta A06327

Delta Link: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/table-insert-p-181592.html

None of the left-tilt throats I've looked at have the same arrangement of screw holes, but maybe that doesn't matter.

Please advise.


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

Have you considered at plate like this? http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...=aps&field-keywords=delta+36-979+throat+plate


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Make one out of wood. This one is for a Unisaw which I made a little thin and just put flat head screws on the underside for leveling.


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## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

Consider contacting Woodcraft or Rockler (on line), as both have replacement throat plates listed in their catalog. Woodcraft also shows a "Delta left & right tilt insert" available. Be safe.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Do a search for zero clearance inserts, there are many articles on how to make them. You may have to fiddle a bit getting a pattern from your damaged one, but once you have it you will be set for life.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm really surprised that such a simple part isn't available as a generic replacement or aftermarket part. It's a $30 piece of painted metal, but my saw is dead in the water without it!

I've seen other throat plates from Delta for 10-inch, left-tilt saws. The replacement throat plate seems to be missing the screw hole that secures the plate, but otherwise it looked like a drop-in replacement. The 4 leveling screw holes and the cutouts look the same as my broken plate.

http://www.mikestools.com/36-861-De...insert-for-10-inch-Unisaw-with-Left-Tilt.aspx










Any ideas on how my throat plate could have warped on its own? It was stored in the corner of my garage since 2010 with a few layers of boxes on top of the saw. The throat plate almost looks like it was subjected to high heat (the paint looks bubbled near the half-inch high warp) but there was clearly no fire or high temperature near the saw.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

One of the very first things that came off my saw was the screw holding the throat plate down....

Don't worry about that screw.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

I think I found the closest match possible: a DELTA 36-861 Standard Table Insert for Left Tilt Unisaws on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-36-861-Standard-Insert-Unisaws/dp/B00004Z00Q


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

ryan50hrl said:


> One of the very first things that came off my saw was the screw holding the throat plate down....
> 
> Don't worry about that screw.


OK. Appreciate the advice. It looks like the newer plates from Delta do NOT have the 5th hole for securing the insert to the table. Maybe there's a reason why they got rid of it...

Who knows: maybe this securing screw is what caused the insert to warp in the first place.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*metal plates don't "warp"*

If it were mine, I'd bend it back into "flat" using a vise or over a round dowel by pressing it down. Just a little at a time will probably get it back to useable. JMO


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> If it were mine, I'd bend it back into "flat" using a vise or over a round dowel by pressing it down. Just a little at a time will probably get it back to useable. JMO


Unfortunately, the insert was warped beyond repair or I would have tried this myself. The throat plate was completely wedged in the saw, and the only way to get it out was to break it, so it's a complete loss that's now in 4 pieces.

I've done a bit more research, and I've found a few references to warping and random breakages. Maybe the pot metal used to make the OEM inserts had a bad batch. At least I'm not alone.

The zero clearance inserts look like a nice addition. But I still want to have a pre-fabricated metal insert as well.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK then....busted up!*

This site has some zero clearance inserts:
http://www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> This site has some zero clearance inserts:
> http://www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm


I'll admit that I knew NOTHING about zero clearance inserts until I started this thread. 

I studied pictures of new ones and thought: "The only way that can work is if you cut through the insert with your own blade."

What a cool idea, as long as you don't mind having a dedicated insert for different tilt angles.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*depends ....*



Armchair Bronco said:


> I'll admit that I knew NOTHING about zero clearance inserts until I started this thread.
> 
> I studied pictures of new ones and thought: "The only way that can work is if you cut through the insert with your own blade."
> 
> What a cool idea, as long as you don't mind having a dedicated insert for different tilt angles.


I don't tilt the blade often, only rarely. If you route away the material right where the blade comes through, leaving enough for stability, it won't restrict the blade much. You can raise it at 90 degrees and then lower it then raise at 45 degrees and it should leave a center piece that you can remove.

The saw type and trunnions will determine how much the blade shifts when you tilt between 90 and 45 degrees. Some folks DO make designated plates for certain bevel settings, so no problem there.:no:


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Here is a thread on creating your own ZCI:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/making-zero-clearance-insert-table-saw-90026/

Without your original throat insert, you will have to find (or create) a template to use. Once you have one, then you can duplicate it as much as you want. I usually make a bunch of ZCIs at a time. That way, I can use different sizes for different dado widths.

ZCIs are great for reducing the splinters along the blade kerf. They also are great for ripping thin pieces that might get caught in your stock insert.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*making a template*



ORBlackFZ1 said:


> Without your original throat insert, you will have to find *(or create) a template to use.* Once you have one, then you can duplicate it as much as you want. I usually make a bunch of ZCIs at a time. That way, I can use different sizes for different dado widths.


You can trace your throat opening on a piece of paper by taping it all around slightly overlapping the opening. Then rub the area on the sharp edge of the opening on the paper using the wide side of a marking Crayola. This will "transfer" the opening onto the paper and it will be pretty darn close.

Now glue the paper onto a piece of 3/8" thick MDF or other stable material. Cut out the shape close to the line on a bandsaw then sand it right to the line on a disc sander. Keep fitting the template shape into the throat until it's a nice snug fit, but not binding.

There is another way if you don't have a bandsaw and disc sander. You will still need a shape of material "rough" cut to fit into the opening. Then follow these instructions using Bondo to fill in around the gaps between the edges of the throat and the rough shape. Let it harden and block sand the surface to make a smooth template.

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/poor-mans-router-table-insert-template/


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## peridigm (Dec 29, 2014)

Armchair Bronco said:


> Unfortunately, the insert was warped beyond repair or I would have tried this myself. The throat plate was completely wedged in the saw, and the only way to get it out was to break it, so it's a complete loss that's now in 4 pieces.
> 
> I've done a bit more research, and I've found a few references to warping and random breakages. Maybe the pot metal used to make the OEM inserts had a bad batch. At least I'm not alone.
> 
> The zero clearance inserts look like a nice addition. But I still want to have a pre-fabricated metal insert as well.


The only time I use my original Delta insert is if I'm tilting the blade. A zero clearance insert is so much better. I bought blanks from Amazon made from a white plastic material. Don't know what the name of it is but it's specifically for table saw inserts. You can buy 3 of them for the price of the original and have a zero clearance for dado and tilting as well.


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