# Belt Sander?



## fiirmoth (Dec 26, 2011)

I recently built a bookcase and now have requests for 3 more from friends. The sanding of each shelf and the 6 foot side boards took a long time. I am looking to cut down on sanding time. I have a sheet sander and an orbital sander. I was thinking about getting a belt sander to do all but the final 220 with the orbital. Is there any reason why I would NOT want to use a belt sander? I understand they are very powerful so I am thinking just a few seconds/minutes with one on these big surfaces would drastically cut down the time I have to spend sanding. Thank you in advance for your help and advice.


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## Calzone (May 15, 2012)

fiirmoth said:


> I recently built a bookcase and now have requests for 3 more from friends. The sanding of each shelf and the 6 foot side boards took a long time. I am looking to cut down on sanding time. I have a sheet sander and an orbital sander. I was thinking about getting a belt sander to do all but the final 220 with the orbital. Is there any reason why I would NOT want to use a belt sander? I understand they are very powerful so I am thinking just a few seconds/minutes with one on these big surfaces would drastically cut down the time I have to spend sanding. Thank you in advance for your help and advice.


As I said in this thread, I hate sandpaper.
It embeds rocks and crap into your project among other things.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/sanding-after-raising-grain-39097/
Get a card scraper for like 5-15 bucks.
makes it look much nicer than sandpaper, but it will take time to learn how to properly sharpen them.

I'll save you from my rant bashing sandpaper in woodworking as compared to card scrapers.


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## fiirmoth (Dec 26, 2011)

Interesting...I disnt know these existed. I will look into them. Thank you for the advice


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A belt sander can be your friend or your enemy. They take getting used to and practice. Even with a lot of practice, they can ruin a surface faster than you can say Ticonderoga.

It's how one can be finessed to keep the rollers from leaving small indentures. Mastering the balance is imperative. A safer way, but with some handwork involved would be to make some large block sanders using belt sander belts...like these.









 







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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

A belt sander is great for sanding wood flat that has been glued together and to remove planer marks but I would stop there. The sander can dig small dents into the wood that you can't see until you put the finish on. I only use a belt sander anymore on cabinet faces with 80x belts and then thoroughly go over it with a random orbital sander first with 80x disc to make sure the belt sander didn’t leave marks on it and then followed by 150x discs for the finish sand.


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## fiirmoth (Dec 26, 2011)

Thank you for the advice. It sounds like overall the chance for messing something up doesnt outweigh the time saving from using a standard hand sander. I guess u just have to put the time in the get the result you want


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## Tim G (May 10, 2012)

I use a belt sander on every project I do. Belt sander needs to be used like a delicate tool. Never set it down hard. Make sure the platen or metal and cork pad are dent free. That's what causes divots u don't see until u Finish. I belt sand mill marks from new hardwood. I pretty much belt sand everything before finish sanding including hardwood plywood. I know what everyone thinks, it's a sin. Never use belts more coarse than 120 grit. It takes every blimish ripple and mill mark out. I also belt sand where solid edge banding meets plywood. Just make sure the solid wood is slightly higher than plywood. Then mark the joint with many pencil marks across the joint. Keep the sander moving with the grain until the pencil line goes away. That's it ready for finish sanding. I stated woodworking at age 14 and I'm 50 now. But if your doing this kind of work and your using electric sanders any way you might as well get used to it. It makes the project that much cleaner. And once you get used to it. The projects go a lot faster. I know plenty of you will disagree but for me and many other cabinet makers it works. By the way don't buy a cheap belt sander. Or cheap belts and don't over use the belts. Pretty much the only belt sander to have is porter cable 361. Learn how to use the belt sander you'll be happy you did


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

One of my teachers said, "The quickest way for a student to ruin a project is to plug in a belt sander."

While belt sanders do have their uses, I agree with the teacher.

I would think that you would be better off using a 5" Random Orbit Sander.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tim G said:


> Pretty much the only belt sander to have is porter cable 361. Learn how to use the belt sander you'll be happy you did


+1. :yes: If you are going to have a belt sander I would recommend the PC 360 (3"x24") or the PC 361 (4"x24"). They aren't cheap, but that's all I have used after trying out several other brands. It's a heavy tool. The problem with them is the area that can be sanded efficiently is the distance you can reach and control the tool. For a board that's 8' long, you could walk up and down the whole length, but there will be start and stops. Or, sections will be sanded, and in either case is when the small divots happen to the surface if care isn't taken. Considering the weight of the tool, and a fresh belt, belt sanders have quite a bit of pull.

Getting proficient with one is a little like getting proficient with a power hand plane. Those also can do a nice job, but can create firewood quickly. I've limited my use of power hand planes to mostly passage door milling if needed.










 







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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Belt sander racing, it was inevitable.:yes:















 







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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

fiirmoth said:


> I recently built a bookcase and now have requests for 3 more from friends. The sanding of each shelf and the 6 foot side boards took a long time. I am looking to cut down on sanding time. I have a sheet sander and an orbital sander. I was thinking about getting a belt sander to do all but the final 220 with the orbital. Is there any reason why I would NOT want to use a belt sander? I understand they are very powerful so I am thinking just a few seconds/minutes with one on these big surfaces would drastically cut down the time I have to spend sanding. Thank you in advance for your help and advice.


For book cases I assume you are using ply of some sort???

Personally, I would never use a belt sander on ply, it is far too aggressive.

Your ROS should be your best friend here.

For furniture grade ply, I only sand after applying a sanding sealer and do that lightly by hand.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I have the A3 504 Porter Cable belt sander and I think it is top of the line but it is still hard to use if you don't know how. I was kinda sick to know these sanders are now antiques, they are mean sanders though.
I have found the cheaper the belt sander the harder to learn to use.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

A belt sander is like any other tool in your arsonal. If you don't practice, you can ruin a project or worse. I have three...A 60 year old skill worm gear drive, a 30 year old B&D Trade sander, and a 20 year old Makita. Learn to respect them and use them properly and can be a great asset...I do a fair amount of reclaimed lumber and wouldn't be without them.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

jiju1943 said:


> I have the A3 504 Porter Cable belt sander and I think it is top of the line but it is still hard to use if you don't know how. I was kinda sick to know these sanders are now antiques, they are mean sanders though.
> I have found the cheaper the belt sander the harder to learn to use.


 I liked that sander. I believe it was one I learned to sand with. I think what most people didn't like about it was the weight. It was the heaviest sander I've ever used.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> I liked that sander. I believe it was one I learned to sand with. I think what most people didn't like about it was the weight. It was the heaviest sander I've ever used.


I think that it is good for a belt sander to be heavy: my very old Craftsman is metal and heavy.

With a heavy belt sander there is less tnedency to push down on the sander. I just let the weight of the sander to the job. Keep the sander moving. I also think that with a belt sander it is even more important than with other sanders too sand with the grain.

I seldom use a belt less than 120 grit.

George


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> Belt sander racing, it was inevitable.:yes:


Sanctioned no less.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

Calzone said:


> As I said in this thread, I hate sandpaper.
> It embeds rocks and crap into your project among other things.
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/sanding-after-raising-grain-39097/
> Get a card scraper for like 5-15 bucks.
> ...


I use silicon carbide paper from klingspore and the little rock's ect. don't come off. Now chep garnet paper is junk in my book and rock's will come off and cause swarles on the surface. I use 6" on my orbit sander with perfect sanding. I finish with 400 grit. this work's for me I also have 2 porter cable belt sanders a 3" and a 4" both work very well also. my 2 cents a card scraper will work but if you dont have one ? i guess get one ? Or get good sanding paper ?


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## jessrj (Mar 30, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> A belt sander is great for sanding wood flat that has been glued together and to remove planer marks but I would stop there. The sander can dig small dents into the wood that you can't see until you put the finish on. I only use a belt sander anymore on cabinet faces with 80x belts and then thoroughly go over it with a random orbital sander first with 80x disc to make sure the belt sander didn’t leave marks on it and then followed by 150x discs for the finish sand.


Yeah, don't use they belt sander for much more than this unless you have no other option. They aren't as easy to operate as you think. In order to get a good result you have to have a lot of experience using them.


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