# Platform Bed Build



## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

Morning! Thanks to David for the warm welcome yesterday. Profile updated and hoping to share with yinz my plans for upcoming platform bed frame build I'll be working on the next few weeks. I'm a novice woodworker, trying to use the tools I have and grow the garage "shop" slowly but surely. The deal I have with the missus is that as she sees fancy furniture out there online, if I can replicate it at home I get to spend the difference on tools.
So project at hand is based on the style and dimensions of an Urban Outfitters king-sized bed frame found here: link removed








After a bit of time working in Sketchup, I think I've got a design down that will fit the bill. 

Couple screenshots attached, and I'll email the .skp to anyone who wants to take a closer look at it.








Living in the FL panhandle, I haven't had much success finding a lumber shop around that carries anything outside of white oak. I have access to the standard big-box stores as well, though I haven't seen much of a hardwood selection in them either. So although the UO Frame is made from mango, white oak is what the main pieces of this build are going to be.
I've worked with a guy on Etsy to source the turned wood legs. Those are 3.25x3.25" square, and 13" high. They will arrive in 2-3 weeks, giving me the rest of that time to buy the materials and start getting some of the bigger pieces cut and glued up. 

The exterior planks that join the turned legs are roughly 6ft long (dimensions in sketchup file or in UO link), and I am planning on making them out of 4/4 S2S white oak, cut, planed and glued to make a 1.5"x3.5" beam. The connections at the corner joints I had planned to drill and dowel. I haven't done enough research yet to know what thickness of dowel or how many to install. 

The remainder of the wood in the design (and the central support beam) is pine, since it will reduce costs, stress, and no one will be able to see the cross-slats or central support legs anyway with a big mattress on top. The central support beam I had planned to make out of a 1x3 glued to 1x4 glued to 1x3 piece of pine. That fastened to the white plank at the "T" with dowels and a metal corner bracket, to allow for tear-down for next time we move places. 



That's the overview of the project. I'm planning on getting the wood, glue, clamps, and materials today. 

Main tools I am planning on using: HF benchtop tablesaw; cordless drill and drill jig (in lieu of drill press); router table and fence (in lieu of jointer). 



Anything I'm missing? Thoughts/questions? Cheers team, wish me luck.


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

You don’t need the sides/ends to be 1 1/2 inch thick. 3/4 inch white oak is more then adequate for the rails. If you are starting with 4/4 oak, you could plane it as thick as possible. Usually you can end up with piece 7/8 inch thick.

You need to figure out someway to take the bed apart. You can’t rely on just some dowels because you need to separate the sides from the head and foot assemblies. You can use some dowels to hold ends to corner posts, but you need something else to connect sides to end assemblies.

Many different ways to make take apart beds. Look at any unline supplier like Rockler or Woodcraft or Leevalley, see what they have. If you narrow your decision but still need help, we can provide advantages and disadvantages to each option.


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

Terry Q said:


> You don’t need the sides/ends to be 1 1/2 inch thick. 3/4 inch white oak is more then adequate for the rails. If you are starting with 4/4 oak, you could plane it as thick as possible. Usually you can end up with piece 7/8 inch thick.


Thanks for the response Terry. Sounds like there is little structural gain from laminating two 4/4 pieces together. Unsure the complexity, I've never done a glue up before. The "gain" here would be the look, since the rails are slightly extend from under the mattress. The entire frame is right now planned to be 77"x81", and when combined with a 76"x80" standard king mattress should leave about half an inch on each side exposed for aesthetic. Although I do worry that a glue up would go poorly. 




> Many different ways to make take apart beds. Look at any unline supplier like Rockler or Woodcraft or Leevalley, see what they have. If you narrow your decision but still need help, we can provide advantages and disadvantages to each option.


I had imagined using dowels because it seemed like the most secure way to join the side planks with the legs. I'm trying to engineer a zero-wiggle solution. I checked out Rockler and they did have several hardware sets which would make plank to corner joining a lot easier not only with install, but with tear-down for transport. The image attached below seems to be a pretty straight forward install, but I worry about eventual screw tear-out and slight flex in the joint. Do you think that would be a factor if installed correctly?


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

ftnuna3819 said:


> Thanks for the response Terry. Sounds like there is little structural gain from laminating two 4/4 pieces together. Unsure the complexity, I've never done a glue up before. The "gain" here would be the look, since the rails are slightly extend from under the mattress. The entire frame is right now planned to be 77"x81", and when combined with a 76"x80" standard king mattress should leave about half an inch on each side exposed for aesthetic. Although I do worry that a glue up would go poorly.
> 
> 
> 
> I had imagined using dowels because it seemed like the most secure way to join the side planks with the legs. I'm trying to engineer a zero-wiggle solution. I checked out Rockler and they did have several hardware sets which would make plank to corner joining a lot easier not only with install, but with tear-down for transport. The image attached below seems to be a pretty straight forward install, but I worry about eventual screw tear-out and slight flex in the joint. Do you think that would be a factor if installed correctly?




The kind of fitting you chose has the advantage of ease of installation compared to other methods. The disadvantage, as you rightly suspect, is that the corner is held together with 6 short screws.

White oak is extremely tough so pulling screws out is far less likely then when using softer woods. If you do decide to double up the thickness of side pieces you will be able to use longer screws which would lessen chance of pullout.

Having the center support will take a lot of stress out of the corner joints as well. All-in-all, you are using that type of connector under ideal conditions so it has a good chance of holding up.

As for 1 1/2 inch thick boards. The top of the side rails are rarely exposed because of the bedding. I don’t think you’d be able to appreciate the thickness of the boards and are just adding weight, cost, and complexity.


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## sunnybob (Sep 3, 2016)

A couple of thoughts....

Size. you say "about 6ft". make it 6 ft 6" so you can use standard fitted sheets. Are you having a head board? Platform beds look good, but without headboards the pillows work their way onto the floor every morning, or your feet hang out the bottom as you slide down the bed to keep the pillow in place.

DONT have the base sticking out past the mattress edges. Hitting your legs on it every time you get in and out grows old very quickly, and your mrs will not thank you when she scrapes her knuckles every time she makes the bad or changes the sheets.

Dont ask me how I know this stuff.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Good morning Jon. Interesting project that you have going. 



You say that you are having a problem finding anything other than white oak. Have you tried Gatlin in Fort Walton Beach. I have not been active in building the last couple of years, but they used to carry fair assortment to include cherry, black walnut, maple, birch etc. They never had a large stock, but could order what you want. Lowes and Home Depot are very expensive for what they have. 



There also used to be some little mills in the North end of Excambia and Santa Rosa counties that you could buy from. 



How long have you lived in Niceville?


George


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

The design looks fine. Dont try to out guess or over-build this project. As for dowels, I consider them amateurish, not to mention they are weak joints. I have used various styles of hardware for the frame joints to the legs. 
You problem might come from the pine is you use standard lumber from the lumber yard that is meant for construction. They will warp and twist unless you get the premium grade which usually cost more than red oak if you find red oak. Again, don't try to second guess the design and materials - DONT CHEAP OUT!
The center beam and side beams should have a strip running along the bottom to support the strips running cross ways.
Also, those strips running crossways - look slike there is way too many. Dont need all of them. 
Why don't you start asking specific questions about one step at a time starting with the frame. That will avoid some of the cross talk confusion.


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

GeorgeC said:


> You say that you are having a problem finding anything other than white oak. Have you tried Gatlin in Fort Walton Beach. I have not been active in building the last couple of years, but they used to carry fair assortment to include cherry, black walnut, maple, birch etc. They never had a large stock, but could order what you want. Lowes and Home Depot are very expensive for what they have.



George, thanks for the info! Will swing by Gatlin this morning and see what all they have. Headed down to beach today to Santa Rosa so might be able to check out the mill there too depending. Been a resident here for about three weeks! Trying to get the lay of the land, so I appreciate the insight. You a Panhandle neighbor? 





Tony B said:


> As for dowels, I consider them amateurish, not to mention they are weak joints. I have used various styles of hardware for the frame joints to the legs.
> You problem might come from the pine is you use standard lumber from the lumber yard that is meant for construction. They will warp and twist unless you get the premium grade which usually cost more than red oak if you find red oak. Again, don't try to second guess the design and materials - DONT CHEAP OUT!


I'm open to suggestions on the joinery hardware. Dowels did seem like something I could accomplish though with tools on hand, and I figured three 1/2" dowels in the corners would be plenty strong for a corner leg joint. I'll draw up a sketch and attach it. Is there anything to be said about the "spirit of woodworking"? Youtube would have you believe that the more wood-based joinery you do, the more authentic your creation is. I have minimal hours in the shop, would love to hear your take.
Thanks for the heads up on cost comparison between select kiln-dried pine and red oak. I'll keep an eye out.


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

Corner joinery: 

Figured I'd try and illustrate a few things with regards to corner joinery since that's been highlighted where more thought/planning needs to go.
First 3 screenshots for perspective. 

Corner 4 shows top-down view of plan. Red- Dowel. Yellow- glue, Blue - metal bracket, screwed in place.
The left side rail assembly I plan to permanently join with the leg. Three dowels, two centered in the outer-most plank top and bottom, and one centered in the middle plank. Dowels glued to side rail planks and corner leg.


The top planks (or perhaps we call it the headboard planks?) we discussed needing to be able to separate in order to move/deconstruct. Although this joint doesn't have a large need to support large amounts of shear forces (the weight of mattress is distributed across the slats supported by the left and right sideboards), I want to completely eliminate any flex or wobble side to side. I illustrated the joint with a dowel in place to help with that, but maybe you guys know another way?


What else am I missing? Cheers--


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Good luck with dowels on a bed frame.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*This is a very strong joint*

One our members, Lola Ranch post his idea for a corner leg brace:









Posted here:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/table-leg-bracing-20431/


Here's how I made one:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/leg-brace-alternative-method-challenge-33352/


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

See the above mortise and tenon joint, you can use it for the bed as long as the tenons are loooooong. Probably still not as good as steel hardware. There is a lot more stress on a bed frame joint than you might suspect. For one thing, people have a tendency to plop down on a bed. The joints are under a lot of stress especially if you are a bedroom athlete - lots of lateral stress. 
I have seen some old beds that used the mortise and tenon joinery and ran a blot through the joint for extra security.

Another method I have seen is using a barrel nut and a bolt. just use 2 on each joint. Drill 2 holes in the rear of the leg and then into the end grain on the rails about 2 1/2 inches deep into the rails. At the end of the holes in the rails, drill a hole or route a space for the barrel nuts and then run the bolts through the leg and the rails and into the barrel nuts. 

Still rather use steel hardware There are lots of different steel hardware for bed frames. Some relatively inexpensive and some really expensive The inexpensive ones are still very effective.


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

Thanks all for the insight on where the stresses in a bed frame are. I'll use the corner bracket on the 4 posts. Dowels will be used just to support against the shear forces of the four legs, and I think the corner bracket will defend against any lateral or twisting. I love the idea of the wooden corner leg brace, but I need to be able to tear down the bed and it seems like the more wooden joints, the trickier it will be (I surmise).

Can't use the bolt because it leaves an external mark. 

For the support/cross beam down the middle, just going to use the aforementioned fasteners. Lot of reviews showing how they warp over time when attached to legs as the primary fastener, but I think they will play perfectly in the cross-beam since I'll be able to double up per T-joint. 

Dewalt 735x planer purchased and on the way... the tool collection grows by plus one. Will report back for next step of the process. Going to go purchase some lumber soon.


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## gj13us (Apr 19, 2016)

Where'dj yinz guys live before Niceville? I've only build one bed, and used knock-down brackets similar to these. It's pretty rock solid.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Jon, been in Shalimar area for 42 years.


George


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

Morning! Pulled the trigger and started making material purchases for the project this last week.
Went by the local hardware/lumber store and picked up two planks of white oak. This took far longer than I thought it would, but after 2 hours I think I have planks that will cut down and glue up well. Haven't purchased by board-foot until then, and it was definitely an experience. Total cost of the two planks was just over $100. The spruce for the center support was (as Tony predicted) quite pricey... but I wanted to get done with the purchase so just bit the bullet. Two 1x6s and a 1x4 was another $40. 

Picked up two F clamps, two pipe clamps, and a gallon of Titebond. 



Got the garage set up to make some of the cuts today. I'm worried that the oak will warp after I cut it down. Is that an irrational fear? The garage is same temp/humidity as where I picked it up. 

Will be first time using a planer, and running the router as a jointer. Ripping the boards an extra 1/8" wide to account for two passes taking off 1/16" each time.

@gj13us - I grew up in the south hills of Pittsburgh, where in PA are you at? @George C - thanks for the recs for sourcing wood. Gatlin has a really nice selection of wood types, but ended up going with white oak which the Cash and Carry had in stock.


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

First glue-up setting now. Did a lot of dress rehearsal for this one since the open time for Titebond is only about 5 minutes. Feeling rushed led to using a bit more glue than I needed to which I have to clean up now. 

Created a clamp jig using scrap pieces with the required width to keep the 1x3" plank "centered" exactly where I want.








The ends are off by 1/16th or so. Will have to keep that in mind to fix when gluing the other side.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Nice work. I look forward to seeing your continued progress. 

Your Next Project: 
Buy a few extra pieces of lumber to make stands for your tools?


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## gj13us (Apr 19, 2016)

ftnuna3819 said:


> @*gj13us* - I grew up in the south hills of Pittsburgh, where in PA are you at?



So did I, mostly. MtL '85. Most of my family is still in Pgh. 

I live in Lancaster, PA now. I was a Blue Devil, my kids are Blue Streaks.


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

Tool Agnostic said:


> Your Next Project:
> Buy a few extra pieces of lumber to make stands for your tools?



Read this and laughed so hard it woke the dog up. Wondered if I'd garner some love for my workspace... all are welcome to fund it! Got that couch in the background up on craigslist 
Having an bare-minimum space has led to some interesting situations. Anyone ever had to shop-vac planer chips out of their front lawn? The Dewalt 735x is a beast, though I saw several posts on the internet disclaiming that a direct planer to shopvac connection will only lead to an explosion of dust. So. I woodchipped out the front of the garage into the driveway.


Here's some pics!
I'd never taken a rough plank and worked it to final dimensions before. Seriously cool. I was lucky I was able to fit the cuts I needed to make into the boards I purchased. As you can see in the photo, one had a pretty noticeable bow to one side of it, just barely had the width required. 

I don't have a jointer, but was able to use the router to give the edge a nice finish. Used 1/16 shims for total of 1/8" reduction to final width of 3.5".



Some questions though:
Posted a photo of the wood post-plane. I noticed a slight color difference before, but chalked it up to variations in the trees since the boards were both marked as white oak. Wondering if in fact I received a plank of white oak and a plank of red oak? 



For the glue up, I spent a lot of time trying to get the seam to disappear. Perhaps I attach the clamps ALL on the top/visible side next time? Since that is the seam I really want to hide.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

ftnuna3819 said:


> ...................... I saw several posts on the internet *disclaiming* that a direct planer to shopvac connection will only lead to an explosion of dust. So. I woodchipped out the front of the garage into the driveway................


A DISCLAIMER means it it NOT true. 
I'm sure it might be possible but I have used large and small dust collectors for almost 40 years and never even had a close call. You ought to see what a screw can do to the steel shroud of a 4 bagger dust collector. I'm sure a spark has been generated. Anyway, I could not find anywhere on the web where it was proven as true. I would be more concerned if anyone is smoking in the workshop. THAT would cause a multitude of potential shop fires. Stacking 2 or more 'oil stain' soaked rags is a real potential fire starter. Ask me how I finally became a believer.


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

In the closeup picture showing jointing the board on the router table, the wood looks like red oak to me.

There are many species of oak and different parts of the country might call slightly different varieties of oak “white oak”. I don’t know for sure because I’m not in forestry. The white oak that I buy in Michigan is a beautiful brown color. Hard to tell from photos, but I wouldn’t call any of those boards white oak.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I tend to go with Terry above. thinking some of the boards are red oak.

Some look like red oak, would have to see a clear photo of end grain to make up my mind. 

Terry ; in the south, some white oak will look almost like red oak. I can usually tell by the end grain. Anway, most white oak here is from very light to a medium to dark brown. pick up apiece you can also tell by the weight. red oak is fairly light compared to the much heavier white oak


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

Terry Q said:


> In the closeup picture showing jointing the board on the router table, the wood looks like red oak to me.
> 
> There are many species of oak and different parts of the country might call slightly different varieties of oak “white oak”. I don’t know for sure because I’m not in forestry. The white oak that I buy in Michigan is a beautiful brown color. Hard to tell from photos, but I wouldn’t call any of those boards white oak.



Here's the endgrain of both one of the lighter and darker hues together.


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

I don't have success to report today. My glue-ups didn't get much better the second time around, where I wanted to completely eliminate the seam between the two boards. Luckily I've "hid" it by making sure the top face is clamped together well as I can. 

Here's some of the learning points I've come across, please feel free to offer corrections as you see fit.
-When thinking about the dimensions for the board, you should leave yourself extra for finishing POST glue up. Glue is messy. More on this later, cringe pictures to follow. Also, somehow post-clamp the end to end dimensions shifted slightly. So now I'll have to shave a bit off each end to ensure lengths are consistent to keep bedframe square.

- Harbor freight aluminum F clamps aren't really worth much when you're trying to get a really tight tolerances on a glue up. I bought 2x 50" clamps to glue up a piece of wood 1.5" thick. After the first glue up, I noticed in tightening the jaws the bottom stop just starting stretching the aluminum cut out. So then you pay for it with a gap in your glued wood. 

- I bought way too many types of clamps for this thing. Mentality: well for next time I'll have an assortment to choose from. Correction: pipe or C-clamps would have worked just fine if not better. And I could have had (what I believe to be) the correct amount needed for this glue up for the same price I paid for the stupid aluminum ones. Classic "bigger/longer must be better" machismo. Blah. Only took me watching 30 minutes of youtube on clamp types to understand this. Could have saved me some bucks.


So. Idea is to return the aluminum ones to HF. The product sticker did say lifetime warranty before I ripped it off...
Purchase 2x pipe and 4x C clamps. These should give me the clamp force I need to really marry up the seams. 

Minor victory: the laminated boards are pretty straight. No bow or twist to note.

What else am I missing? 

Thanks for keeping me straight.


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

I went looking for an unfinished project with white oak. This is what I found first.

The brown wood is white oak, the light colored wood is maple.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Both of those boards are definitely RED oak.

As far as clamps go, Harbor Freight clamps are very cheaply made, like all of their other stuff. However, as you gain woodworking experience, you will learn exactly how much clamping pressure you can put on HF clamps before they break. Also note that you dont have to really force the clamps that tight. If you really have to use a lot of strength, you are over tightening. How much is not enough and how much is too much? This is something that cant be explained in words.


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

Tony B said:


> Both of those boards are definitely RED oak.
> 
> As far as clamps go, Harbor Freight clamps are very cheaply made, like all of their other stuff. However, as you gain woodworking experience, you will learn exactly how much clamping pressure you can put on HF clamps before they break. Also note that you dont have to really force the clamps that tight. If you really have to use a lot of strength, you are over tightening. How much is not enough and how much is too much? This is something that cant be explained in words.


Well I don't think I'm clamping all too hard, I just want to use enough force to have a small amount of squeeze out and marry up the edges. Last two glue ups I was still left with a few sections where there were gaps. Just changed out the aluminum clamps for pipe and c clamps, hoping they will help me achieve that is the end result 

As to wood types, I guess we will have a bit of contrast between the legs (made out of white.oak) and the beams that I guess are red oak. Appreciate the help with the detective work.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Tony B said:


> Both of those boards are definitely RED oak.
> 
> As far as clamps go, Harbor Freight clamps are very cheaply made, like all of their other stuff. However, as you gain woodworking experience, you will learn exactly how much clamping pressure you can put on HF clamps before they break. Also note that you dont have to really force the clamps that tight. If you really have to use a lot of strength, you are over tightening. How much is not enough and how much is too much? This is something that cant be explained in words.



I have used several Harbor Freight clamps. There is no breaking problem is you use the proper amount of clamping pressure. If the clamp breaks it generally means that you are over tightening the clamps.


George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

ftnuna3819 said:


> Well I don't think I'm clamping all too hard, I just want to use enough force to have a small amount of squeeze out and marry up the edges. Last two glue ups I was still left with a few sections where there were gaps. Just changed out the aluminum clamps for pipe and c clamps, hoping they will help me achieve that is the end result
> 
> As to wood types, I guess we will have a bit of contrast between the legs (made out of white.oak) and the beams that I guess are red oak. Appreciate the help with the detective work.



From what I am reading, you are clamping too hard. Your problem should not be solved be over clamping. It should be solved by making the joint a better fit. With a proper joint fit moderate clamping pressure is best.


George


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

GeorgeC said:


> From what I am reading, you are clamping too hard. Your problem should not be solved be over clamping. It should be solved by making the joint a better fit. With a proper joint fit moderate clamping pressure is best.



:vs_bulb:Lightbulb illuminated. That checks. Definitely good learning point about the lamination process. I thought I had already finished all four sides for both boards and lost a lot of material in the process, when really I should have just finished the two sides that were going to be glued together, done the glue-up, then finished the remaining sides to ensure square and dimensions. Wish I had a legit jointer.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

ftnuna3819 said:


> .................. Last two glue ups I was still left with a few sections where there were gaps. Just changed out the aluminum clamps for pipe and c clamps, hoping they will help me achieve that is the end result
> As to wood types, I guess we will have a bit of contrast between the legs (made out of white.oak) and the beams that I guess are red oak. Appreciate the help with the detective work.


Clamps should never be used to close gaps unless very little pressure is needed to close them up. The boards should fit perfectly before glue-up. You should be able to get a perfectly straight edge right off of the table saw. I have always owned jointers but rarely ever used them. I am able to rip the 2 boards and they will fit perfectly. If not, there is a problem with the table saw adjustments.

As for the different colors, I always like and use contrasting wood in my designs. That allows me to make simple designs and the contrasting colors remove the boredom. 

BTW, dont take me and George C's comments as criticism. We know this is new to you and are trying to help the best we can. I'm just happy to see a relatively new guy actually building something. We tend to be our own worse critics. Keep challenging yourself and you learn to be impressed with your own work. And by the way, dont point out any defects to other people that otherwise would never have seen them. 

Enjoy


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## ftnuna3819 (Sep 26, 2019)

*Project Conclusion*

Team, it's been a hot second and a dead thread for the last few weeks (months). Bed is complete, new mattress and all. Pretty happy with end result, and really appreciate the input you all had. Wood is a mix of white and red oak for exterior, with pine for center support and slats. Finished with linseed oil. Photos below:








Finished, installed in it's natural habitat. 









Close up of finished corner joint. Small gaps there, but it's a solid joint with the metal brackets installed on the inside. Bed breaks down into 5 pieces: left and right runners with legs, center support runner, and head/footboard runners.








Corner glue-up. Tie-down straps and microfiber cloth. Able to use the strap to adjust pressure location on the legs to keep them perpendicular to the frame. 









Center support leg. Played around with a few ideas of how to join this, but went with hogging out center material with drill press (which is a blast) and then finishing with a hand saw and a dull harbor freight chisel. I need to invest in a sharpening stone. Lot of tear-out internal, but guess who sees that? Not you nor I, with the bed all together. Our little secret: HF tools + inexperienced hobbiest don't equal perfection. The 4x dowels (with the drill press again) lock this leg into place, even with the gap/slop there. No wiggle. No shifting. 









When I started this project, someone said "don't overengineer it". I don't know if this qualifies as that or not, but I definitely didn't want to worry about this joint loosening over time. Really happy with this corner bracket from Rockler. Locks the joint into place, easy enough to disassemble, and hidden from sight.


Thanks for stopping by, and thanks again for the help along the way. Sorry it took so long to report back! Shifted gears starting training and had to wait until holiday break to get the time and headspace to finish this.
Cheers!
Jon


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Congrats on a fine looking bed. 

It's nice to see someone with little to no experience actually tackle a big job and complete it. Experience is measured in mileage, not years. 

Sooooooooooooooo, what is your next project?


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Let us know how that hardware works out. That all depends on the stresses put on the bed.


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