# Sanding after Planing?



## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

I recently got a planer and the wood is so smooth after final pass in the planer that I'm not sure if I should sand it.

The wood is maple that will be painted for cabinet doors.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

If you are happy with the surface as it is now, there is no need to now sand it. To determine if the surface is ready for the color coat, wet a clean rag with alcohol or lacquer thinner. Wipe and wet the surface. This will highlight any sanding miscues or other surface blemishes. If it looks good, you're good to go.

Unlike hand planes, power planers and jointers cut with a rotary motion. This motion sort of scoops out the material. Frequently this leaves a scalloped appearance but the above test will highlight it.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

HowardAcheson said:


> If you are happy with the surface as it is now, there is no need to now sand it. To determine if the surface is ready for the color coat, wet a clean rag with alcohol or lacquer thinner. Wipe and wet the surface. This will highlight any sanding miscues or other surface blemishes. If it looks good, you're good to go.
> 
> Unlike hand planes, power planers and jointers cut with a rotary motion. This motion sort of scoops out the material. Frequently this leaves a scalloped appearance but the above test will highlight it.


Thanks for the tips.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Tdog,
If you do have to sand any, it won't be much. Maybe 220 on a random orbital sander. Sometimes the planers will leave little teeny stripes going across the grain, if you look under the right light and up close. Other times you will get a fine line going the length of the wood from any tiny nicks in the planer knifes. Both will sand out easily.
Mike Hawkins


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It may look smooth now but with paint or a finish on it I bet you can see the planer marks in it. I always sand wood no matter how smooth it surfaces.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> It may look smooth now but with paint or a finish on it I bet you can see the planer marks in it. I always sand wood no matter how smooth it surfaces.


That's the reason I recommended that the OP wipe the surface with alcohol or lacquer thinner. Either will highlight the cross grain scallops and evaporate quickly allowing work to proceed with minimal delay.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

I will go ahead and sand just to be sure; since I have to sand the edges as they are they are not smooth as the face since I didn't run them through the planer.

As for the planed faces do I need to start at 80 grit and go up to 180 or will starting with & ending with 180 be sufficient?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

TrevortdogR said:


> I will go ahead and sand just to be sure; since I have to sand the edges as they are they are not smooth as the face since I didn't run them through the planer.
> 
> As for the planed faces do I need to start at 80 grit and go up to 180 or will starting with & ending with 180 be sufficient?


Oh my NO! Just hit it with 220 if it's as smooth as you say. I would only go to 150 at the most after planing. 

I would also encourage you to learn to use a card scraper and you will greatly lessen your sanding time.

Al


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

The finish left by the sizing machine determines the starting grit. Jointers, planers, belt sanders etc, should leave a finish that allows starting with 100 grit. From there, go to 120 grit and sand until the marks from the prior grit are gone, then move to 150 and finish at 180 grit sanding by hand in the direction of the grain.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Al B Thayer said:


> Oh my NO! Just hit it with 220 if it's as smooth as you say. I would only go to 150 at the most after planing.
> 
> I would also encourage you to learn to use a card scraper and you will greatly lessen your sanding time.
> 
> Al





HowardAcheson said:


> The finish left by the sizing machine determines the starting grit. Jointers, planers, belt sanders etc, should leave a finish that allows starting with 100 grit. From there, go to 120 grit and sand until the marks from the prior grit are gone, then move to 150 and finish at 180 grit sanding by hand in the direction of the grain.


I have 80, 120 & 180 so I will skip the 80.

The wood is almost smooth like glass and when I run it through the planer I try to take off very small portions at a time running multiple passes through jointer for desired thickness.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Al B Thayer said:


> Oh my NO! Just hit it with 220 if it's as smooth as you say. I would only go to 150 at the most after planing.
> 
> I would also encourage you to learn to use a card scraper and you will greatly lessen your sanding time.
> 
> Al


+1. I agree with Al.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Im glad I sanded the stiles & rails I can tell a difference.


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## OZONESHOTZZ (Nov 11, 2020)

TrevortdogR said:


> I recently got a planer and the wood is so smooth after final pass in the planer that I'm not sure if I should sand it.
> 
> The wood is maple that will be painted for cabinet doors.


What planer did you use? I hear pros and cons on every planer (as always) I've never gotten one before. Been watching and reading A LOT of reviews. Obviously dewalt is a main top of line brand but with that is the cost of the name. I don't want to spend $500-$600 for a planer if another brand does about the same at $250-$400


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

This thread (discussion) is over 5 years old so I doubt you'll get feedback from the folks above. 

Fwiw, it depends on what I plan to do with the wood after planing as to whether I leave as is, sand, or use a card scraper. I have the DeWalt 735 and it leaves a very smooth finish but if other pieces in my build are sanded then I'll always sand what comes off the planer so they'll have the same look.

David


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Everything has to be sanded the same. It's a furniture making law....


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## OZONESHOTZZ (Nov 11, 2020)

difalkner said:


> This thread (discussion) is over 5 years old so I doubt you'll get feedback from the folks above.
> 
> Fwiw, it depends on what I plan to do with the wood after planing as to whether I leave as is, sand, or use a card scraper. I have the DeWalt 735 and it leaves a very smooth finish but if other pieces in my build are sanded then I'll always sand what comes off the planer so they'll have the same look.
> 
> David


Thank you. I know but still a shot in the dark. I don't care much about sanding afterwards really. I know a 3 blade pla er leaves a better finish then a 2 blade. I just don't wanna spend a arm and leg for a dewalt if I don't have to. I at least wanna be able to buy it, use it to make items to pay off the pla er but also to at least make some profit if you know what I mean. (Dewalt 735 is $500,I want to make chest, table, etc to make at least the $500 back or more. David, have you've only used that dewalt 735 or have you have experience with like, wen, porter cable, rigid, etc. ?


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

OZONESHOTZZ said:


> David, have you've only used that dewalt 735 or have you have experience with like, wen, porter cable, rigid, etc. ?


For 20 years I had the DeWalt 733 which is very much like the others you mentioned. It worked great but the motor gave up the ghost so I converted it to a veneer press and bought the 735. It is a far better planer, for certain. I don't know what you're making but the difference in cost between the lesser planers and the 735 can probably be made up in a few jobs if you're doing small items, one or two jobs if you're doing larger items.

I'm building an audio rack out of Curly Maple and Purpleheart and had to upgrade my jointer to a Shelix cutterhead ($400) to be able to smoothly edge the Curly Maple. I'll absorb it into this one job.,

David


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

See my just completed post #3 in this thread, which explains why I wanted a DW735. I have used others on rare occasions, but never owned another model.

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/thickness-planer-ridgid-vs-dewalt.223961/post-2143932


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