# Adding wall block paneling with existing chair rail???



## esherman001 (Apr 13, 2011)

I will be adding wall block paneling to the lower portion of a dinning room that has an existing chair railing. I plan on using standard 1X4 material for the top, bottom and stiles with a cap panel molding to outline the panels. The existing dry wall will be the used for the panels. 

When I place the top rail 1x4 up to the bottom of the chair rail it sticks out a bit (quite noticeably) to be honest and it will look better if the bottom of the chair rail that the 1x4 is touching projected out greater than 1x4. 

Any ideas on a molding that I can add there to basically resolve this issue. The chair rail profile is pretty standard builder's quality nothing real fancy, etc.

Thanks,

ET Sherman


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would just remove the builders chair rail and do everything from scratch.

George


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

First off, welcome to the forum!

As for your question, I too would just remove the old chair rail and start fresh without it. You can always replace that chair rail with a cap rail made from the same 1X4 ripped down to a 1X2...endless possibilities!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could machine a top edge profile to the top rail that would taper the wood to not be pronounced. Or, just add another moulding to the underside that has compatible edge thickness to both thicknesses.












 







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## esherman001 (Apr 13, 2011)

Thanks all for the welcome and replies to my question.

Actually removing the existing chair rail was my first thought but it was installed pretty well and I'm sure I will probably damage the dry wall trying to get it off. 

I think I was using an incorrect piece of stock to butt up against the existing chair rail for testing. The actual size of the 1x4 will be (3/4 x 3 1/2) so I used a strip of 3/4 molding instead to see how it would fit as far as thickness (see attached photo). Looks like it's less than 1/8 difference between the bottom of the existing chair rail and the thickness of the 1x4.

Although cabinetman's suggestion of adding a molding to the underside with compatible thickness is what I was probably going to do ... I can live with the 1/8 difference. Once painted, it will blend in with the other panel and wall components. Plus the overall profile of the chair rail (top) will still project beyond the 1x4 paneling.

ET Sherman


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Round over the top of the 1x4, should fade fairly well. :smile:


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## esherman001 (Apr 13, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> Round over the top of the 1x4, should fade fairly well. :smile:


Thanks mdntrdr ... I'm a weekend DIY and have been looking for a reason to by a router. :smile:

That will make it blend in pretty nicely without having to add the additional molding which would have basically accomplished the same thing.

ET


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## DannyT (Apr 26, 2011)

I would remove the chair rail after marking the top of it. Build your panels and reinstall the chair rail after. you could make the top rail wide enough so you could put the chair rail flush with the top when you reinstall it.


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