# Fixing a Blotchy Walnut Table Top



## Pruiett Furniture (Nov 16, 2012)

I made a large table top (84" x 42") out of hard maple. I milled this wood from rough lumber. It came out beautifully (and heavy). However, when I applied MinWax stain (Provincial oil-based), the stain did not take uniformly, but has a mottled look. It is dark in some places and light in others. There is a "line" of light area all the way across the top near the middle. I did not use any pre-stain conditioner, as I believed maple to be hard and non-porous. What can I do to remedy or improve this stain result?

I tried two things, (1) heating the wood and trying to put another coat of stain. This did noting. (2) resanding the areas that are light and reapplying stain. This slightly improved it, but not nearly enough. Can anyone suggest a fix to get a more uniform color?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

From what I see in the picture I believe you have a bigger problem than the stain. How is the board attached on the end? It appears to have been applied with screws. If this is the case it doesn't allow for wood movement. This will prevent the main part of the top from shrinking and the joints between the boards will open up. 

As far as the stain the pre-stain conditioner is what was needed. The density of maple is inconsistent. It has hard spots and soft spots and the soft spots will accept more of the stain. The conditioner is a sealer which evens out the density of the wood so it will stain more uniform. Still sometimes it has places that come out too light. It helps to put some matching dye in a sprayer and shade the lighter wood. 

From where you are I would use paint and varnish remover and strip as much of the stain off as you can. The table needs to be sanded again and sanding wood with stain on it is terrible. The stain gums up on the sandpaper very quickly. Stripper will also remove some of the color.


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## Pruiett Furniture (Nov 16, 2012)

Regarding the breadboard ends, I used tongue and groove, no glue. The screws are narrow Kreg screws (7/64" shank) through 5/16" holes with two washers to allow 3/16"+ play.

I am unclear what the varnish remover will accomplish, if you say I still need to sand off the stain.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

chaplaindoug said:


> Regarding the breadboard ends, I used tongue and groove, no glue. The screws are narrow Kreg screws (7/64" shank) through 5/16" holes with two washers to allow 3/16"+ play.
> 
> I am unclear what the varnish remover will accomplish, if you say I still need to sand off the stain.


Basically you need to start over with the stain. In order to do this the paint and varnish remover will remove some of the color. It will also remove the linseed oil that was part of the stain. This will make it easier to sand because the linseed oil will gum up the sandpaper. You would spend more time changing sandpaper on your sander than sanding.


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## Pruiett Furniture (Nov 16, 2012)

*Will Varnish Remover Harm the Titebond Glue*

Will the varnish remover harm the Titebond glue, some of which is exposed in the grooves between boards?

Also, if I use varnish remover and sand down:

1. How do I know when I have sanded enough?
2. What process do I use to ensure that I do not get the sam blotchy results again?

Thanks for the help.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

chaplaindoug said:


> However, when I applied MinWax stain (Provincial oil-based), the stain did not take uniformly, but has a mottled look. It is dark in some places and light in others.
> Can anyone suggest a fix to get a more uniform color?


Doug
If you haven't already fixed the problem, here is another alternative I've used when this happens. Toners are available from a good supplier of stains and finishes. Toners can be sprayed or purchased in spray cans. Colors are available to blend or hide the differences in contrast. When using a good Toner, spray very lightly to reach the color blend your looking for. When you're happy, a finish coat will go over stain and Toner to complete the project. 
Furniture companies and large volume cabinet mfg use Toners on their lines. 
Good luck.


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## Pruiett Furniture (Nov 16, 2012)

*Ah. Now We Migt Be Getting Somewhere*

The toner idea sounds good. And it will go over oil-based stain?

Also, I have a water-based glaze the customer asked me to apply after the stain. It is colored the same as the stain. What help might that give?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Paint stripper won't hurt the glue joint, all it will do is remove the linseed oil and some of the pigment.

When sanding try to make it as uniform in color as you can. 

Toners are more or less varnish stain and very difficult to shade in the light spots and have it uniform. If any shading is done it would be better to use a dye stain. By using a dye it puts a transparent color on the wood so you have a better chance to have it look normal. If it were me I would rather take it back to bare wood and start over with a wood conditioner. It still may need some shading but it would be better to keep that at a minimum.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

chaplaindoug said:


> The toner idea sounds good. And it will go over oil-based stain?
> 
> Also, I have a water-based glaze the customer asked me to apply after the stain. It is colored the same as the stain. What help might that give?


Yes, the Toner is compatible with the stain. I buy it in rattle cans, but use it only when a need like this arises. I suggest you try a Van **** brown, but again very sparingly. It's another learning curve to use Toners with a confidence. 
Most glazes are a thinned down paint pigment. In the '70's, antiquing was the craze and everyone was glazing everything from wood to ceramics. 
Today we mostly use a glaze to give highlights to a piece. The glaze is wiped on, allowed to set awhile and wiped off. The glaze will stay in all the crevices of molding and will give the piece a different look. Glazes are used on both stained and painted furniture. 
You can use the glaze in place of the Toner if you feel artistic. 
Use a combination of a wet brush and a dry brush. Always brush in long strokes with the grain. You may like the look and skip the Toner. 
Allow everything to dry thoroughly before you put on your final finish. 
Let us know how it turns out. 
Good luck
Jim.


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## Pruiett Furniture (Nov 16, 2012)

*Result of Redoing the Stain*

I purchased Mohawk wipe-on (pigmented) stain from Woodcraft. This is alcohol/acetone based. I "washed the top twice with acetone, sanded heavily with 80 grit orbital, washed with acetone again, sanded with 120 grit orbital, washed again, then applied the new stain. Below is the result for comparison to the original blotchy photo. I am MUCH happier with the result.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

chaplaindoug said:


> I purchased Mohawk wipe-on (pigmented) stain from Woodcraft. This is alcohol/acetone based. I "washed the top twice with acetone, sanded heavily with 80 grit orbital, washed with acetone again, sanded with 120 grit orbital, washed again, then applied the new stain. Below is the result for comparison to the original blotchy photo. I am MUCH happier with the result.


Much better! Big improvement over the first job. I know it was a lot of work.
Finishing a project can be more of a trial than building a project. 
Many beautiful pieces are ruined with a bad finish. Someone skilled at finish can make a rough project look good.


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