# Covering shed/workshop floor with paint?



## davester84

Ok, thanks to those who gave me input on sheds....I have ordered a 12x20 wood shed to be built on site to be used as my workshop. They are building it in a couple weeks (very excited!!!).
I am trying to determine what to do with the floor and have been searching the internet for ideas. I am wanting something that will look nice and clean up easily and yet still be affordable (less than $250). I am interested in your ideas.
The floor will be tongue and groove plywood.
I am currently leaning towards a grey paint similar to the photos attached. Has anyone used/done anything like this to a wooden floor in a shed?
I really dont want to screw this up, so please give me your input. And if anyone has done anything like this, I would LOVE to see a photo.















thanks
dave


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## Oakwerks

davester84 said:


> Ok, thanks to those who gave me input on sheds....I have ordered a 12x20 wood shed to be built on site to be used as my workshop. They are building it in a couple weeks (very excited!!!).
> I am trying to determine what to do with the floor and have been searching the internet for ideas. I am wanting something that will look nice and clean up easily and yet still be affordable (less than $250). I am interested in your ideas.
> The floor will be tongue and groove plywood.
> I am currently leaning towards a grey paint similar to the photos attached. Has anyone used/done anything like this to a wooden floor in a shed?
> I really dont want to screw this up, so please give me your input. And if anyone has done anything like this, I would LOVE to see a photo.
> 
> thanks
> dave


I polyurethaned mine.... 3 coats with a roller, 3 gallons ..... My building is 16x24... Don't remember the cost, but It was well under $100 at Lowes...

It's been down for 3 years, and there's no wear....

Sent to y'all offen' a iPad thing......


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## Steve Neul

If it were me I would not use the skid-not. It might be handy in front of a table saw but would be very difficult to sweep and keep clean. It has a sand texture added to it. You could use the enamel and where the table saw will be you could use an add sand suppliment to the paint. That way the color would all match and not have the entire shop difficult to sweep.


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## davester84

Oakwerks said:


> I polyurethaned mine.... 3 coats with a roller, 3 gallons ..... My building is 16x24... Don't remember the cost, but It was well under $100 at Lowes...
> 
> It's been down for 3 years, and there's no wear....
> 
> Sent to y'all offen' a iPad thing......



this was also a consideration....just wasnt sure if the wood would like nice enough...will have to wait and see once its built.


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## davester84

Steve Neul said:


> If it were me I would not use the skid-not. It might be handy in front of a table saw but would be very difficult to sweep and keep clean. It has a sand texture added to it. You could use the enamel and where the table saw will be you could use an add sand suppliment to the paint. That way the color would all match and not have the entire shop difficult to sweep.


great idea, I absolutely want to be able to sweep up my sawdust easily! My table saw is pretty heavy (rigid)...I dont think it would move, but if it does, I will keep that in mind.


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## 4DThinker

If you really want it to last, arrange to paint/seal the BOTTOM of the floor panels before they install them. Once installed, paint/seal the top.


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## davester84

4DThinker said:


> If you really want it to last, arrange to paint/seal the BOTTOM of the floor panels before they install them. Once installed, paint/seal the top.


Wish I could, but I don't think they will sit around and let me do it. They are located 1.5 hours away, so they can't just "come back".


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## jriffel

If you choose not to poly the floor consider an epoxy-paint (the type they use on many new garage floors). Epoxy-paint is hadrer to scrape up and you can easily sweep up tailings from a "sealed" floor. You won't have to repaint for a long, long time


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## Steve Neul

davester84 said:


> great idea, I absolutely want to be able to sweep up my sawdust easily! My table saw is pretty heavy (rigid)...I dont think it would move, but if it does, I will keep that in mind.


 My thoughts on the table saw wasn't the saw moving but your feet slipping working in front of it. I had a shop one time the concrete floor was polished so slick it was dangerous to run the saw. I finally sprayed contact cement on the floor in front of the saw.


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## davester84

jriffel said:


> If you choose not to poly the floor consider an epoxy-paint (the type they use on many new garage floors). Epoxy-paint is hadrer to scrape up and you can easily sweep up tailings from a "sealed" floor. You won't have to repaint for a long, long time


I looked into that, but I couldn't find any that was intended for use on wood... Just the stuff that I posted at beginning of thread.


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## Steve Neul

davester84 said:


> I looked into that, but I couldn't find any that was intended for use on wood... Just the stuff that I posted at beginning of thread.


 The epoxy floor paint can be put on wood if you prime the wood first with an acrylic latex primer. I've never put it on wood before so I don't have any first hand experience with it on wood. There is conflicting opinions on how durable it is on wood. There are some that say it's too hard and will crack because it doesn't expand and contract as wood does and others say it works great. I would imagine a lot would depend on how damp it is where you live.


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## davester84

Well I have convinced myself to go with a gloss enamel paint in slate grey. 
How should I handle the cracks between the panels of plywood and screws/nails holding plywood down? Caulk or wood filler? I'd like it to look like one solid floor after painting without the cracks showing.
Thanks!


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## Steve Neul

davester84 said:


> Well I have convinced myself to go with a gloss enamel paint in slate grey.
> How should I handle the cracks between the panels of plywood and screws/nails holding plywood down? Caulk or wood filler? I'd like it to look like one solid floor after painting without the cracks showing.
> Thanks!


I don't think I would do anymore than caulk the cracks in the plywood, possibility a rubberized caulk. The panels will expand and contract and if you filled it with something hard like wood filler I think it would flake out. It would be fine to put bondo in the screw holes.


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