# Safety Tips for Woodworkers



## WoodworkingTalk (Dec 8, 2015)

> Staying safe is important when working with any tools, but it’s especially important for woodworkers. While you can suffer severe injuries with any tool, woodworking injuries have an increased chance of injuring your hands, which can obviously severely affect your ability to work on wood in the future.


*Read More*:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/articles/safety-tips-for-woodworkers/


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Good post. I've been a Safety & Industrial Hygiene Professional for over 26 years and I still deal with way too many preventable injuries & illnesses.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

When working with shop tools always be very attentive to the working end of the tools. Always know where your fingers are when using shop tools. 

Don't have a lot of clutter or off fall on the floor that could make you trip into a running tool or fall into some one else who is using a dangerous shop tool. 

If you wear long sleeve shirts, keep them buttoned and never wear real loose fitting sleeves. Do not wear gloves when using the table saw, the saw can jerk your hand into the blade before you know what happened. 

Never take for granted that nothing will or can happen to you because it for sure can and if not really careful, will.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The most important safety device is the common sense gear in your head. Think back, most every time you have hurt yourself you saw it coming. I cut the end of my finger off one time on a shaper trying to force a board flat while running it. The last thing I said was "I don't know if I can do this or not"


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

WoodworkingTalk said:


> Staying safe is important when working with any tools, but it’s especially important for woodworkers. .


In your picture here you are not really using the saw like the instructions suggest you use it... :no:

You are 'supposed' to pull the carriage UP and all the way forward and then press down and push back towards the fence as you make the cut. (at least according to the instructions) With a sliding compound miter saw - You generally always start in the front and work towards the back. 

This prevents (reduces the chances of) the saw from grabbing the board and then 'running' towards you... 

It also appears as though you removed or pinned up your blade guard on that Makita. That is not always a 'good' idea either according to the instructions... 

Most sliding compound miter saws have the instructions printed ON them somewhere but most never bother to read them. 

You 'may' (or may not) be a very good woodworker and have absolutely NO issues doing stuff like in that picture and staying 'safe' while doing it - But if a 'newbie' (or idiot) tries that sort of stuff he may get hurt. :yes:

I don't mean to come across sounding like the 'safety police' or anything like that. All I am trying to say is that what might be 'safe' for you or me could be very 'unsafe' for someone else... :yes:



A guy has to be careful posting pictures lest others may get the idea that that sort of thing is 'ok' for them to try as well. 

My tablesaw has a long list of warnings clearly printed on it. Does not say crap anywhere about dogs so this MUST be 'safe'...









I always look for the little pictures of the circle with the line through it. If it aint in that circle - It has to be 'OK'. :thumbsup:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I agree


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

OnealWoodworking said:


> In your picture here you are not really using the saw like the instructions suggest you use it... :no: You are 'supposed' to pull the carriage UP and all the way forward and then press down and push back towards the fence as you make the cut. (at least according to the instructions) With a sliding compound miter saw - You generally always start in the front and work towards the back. This prevents (reduces the chances of) the saw from grabbing the board and then 'running' towards you... It also appears as though you removed or pinned up your blade guard on that Makita. That is not always a 'good' idea either according to the instructions... Most sliding compound miter saws have the instructions printed ON them somewhere but most never bother to read them. You 'may' (or may not) be a very good woodworker and have absolutely NO issues doing stuff like in that picture and staying 'safe' while doing it - But if a 'newbie' (or idiot) tries that sort of stuff he may get hurt. :yes: I don't mean to come across sounding like the 'safety police' or anything like that. All I am trying to say is that what might be 'safe' for you or me could be very 'unsafe' for someone else... :yes: A guy has to be careful posting pictures lest others may get the idea that that sort of thing is 'ok' for them to try as well. My tablesaw has a long list of warnings clearly printed on it. Does not say crap anywhere about dogs so this MUST be 'safe'... I always look for the little pictures of the circle with the line through it. If it aint in that circle - It has to be 'OK'. :thumbsup:


 His hand was also closer than the manufacturer recommended, I don't think the guard on a miter saw does any good except making it hard to change blades. I still have the guard on my miter saw, because it doesn't get it the way except when changing blades. But, I agree since he did start a safety page he should at least use all proper safety precautions.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Let's not forgot the most important bit of safety advise:

Don't poke the Spinny bit


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

hwebb99 said:


> His hand was also closer than the manufacturer recommended, I don't think the guard on a miter saw does any good except making it hard to change blades. I still have the guard on my miter saw, because it doesn't get it the way except when changing blades. But, I agree since he did start a safety page he should at least use all proper safety precautions.


 
On a Makita like this picture shows - The ergonomics are so good (when pressing the trigger and gripping 'normally' - Your thumb is right there next to the guard and within easy reach with NO effort - You can 'adjust' it all you like without disabling it entirely) that you would have to be a fool to pin it up to somehow make things 'more easy'. 

On saws like this - When brushes need attention they generally cease to work the electronic 'blade brake' long before entirely crapping out to the point that the saw does not work any longer. 

It is 'good' to have a blade guard there while things are winding down *if *the thing is not otherwise getting in the way.


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## Admin (Jan 4, 2010)

Y'all, it's just a stock photo.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Cricket said:


> Y'all, it's just a stock photo.


 You still should use a picture that is using proper safety procedures especially in a safety thread. I doubt you would find this picture on the OSHA poster.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Here's the problem ....*



Cricket said:


> Y'all, it's just a stock photo.


You have posted some general safety tips, a good thing. Then you included a "specifc" photo showing a procedure that is not completely safe, showing a missing blade guard, not a good thing.

For those of us who already know the safe operation of woodworking tools, it won't matter, but for those just starting out .... who I think your post is intended, it gives a mixed message. If you acquired this info from a generic source as opposed to speaking from years of personal woodworking experience, so you are gonna get some flak... just sayin'.

One of the most important safety tips I know from 50 years of using a table saw, is to place ONLY straight and flat work on the table and against the fence. IF the work should shift or twist because it is NOT flat and straight you will most certainly have a dangerous kickback. Kickbacks are the most common table saw mishap, occurring far more often than blade cutting flesh injuries, because they are just not reported and don't involve emergency room attention.

Another important table saw safety accessory/device is the splitter or riving knife which maintains the work against the fence to prevent it from walking away and causing a kickback. It also keeps the kerf open to prevent binding when a cut in made in "reaction" wood closing and binding the blade under power. 

Using the correct type of blade, for cross cutting or ripping is also an important safety issue. Trying to rip with a cross cut blade will cause it to overheat and bind because the gullets aren't deep enough to clear out the chips and there are too many teeth with not enough offset. Conversely, crosscutting with a rip blade will just not give a clean cut, but there are no safety issues.

A full explanation of the table saw safety tips and rules would require a "book" with photos included for each safety aspect, way too much for a post on this forum, but I have included the basic ones I have learned over the years. :smile:


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

My ears are the last defense against injury.

All of the advise above is spot on----but things still go wrong.

A saw or router (really just about every power tool) has a 'happy sound' when operating smoothly.

When that sound changes---I go on full alert--a binding board will strain the motor--changing the sound before the board kicks back.
A shifting router bit will cut differently and make a different warning sound.

Keep safe---use all of you senses (including COMMON sense)--Mike---


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## Admin (Jan 4, 2010)

For what it's worth, I chose that picture for the article BECAUSE it didn't look very safe. It felt like a good opening for a talk about safety. I will use more caution with selecting the pictures in the future.

In the meantime, please continue to share your safety tips.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*At the risk of repeating myself ...*

Table saw operation tips:

There is a 3" "safety zone" in front and all around the blade where caution must be used when entering.
1. use only straight and flat wood against the fence.
2. use a splitter or riving knife to prevent wood closure and to maintain registration against the fence when ripping.
3. use a blade cover when practical.
4. have a off feed table to catch and support all the workpieces and NEVER reach over or around the blade to retrieve loose pieces.
5. have the on/off switch easily available using a knee or hip to turn it off.
6. keep a clean area on top of the saw and around the base
7. use a clean sharp blade and a controlled feed rate.
8. push narrow pieces beyond the blade with a push block.
9. stand to one side when ripping long narrow piece which may propel rearwards.
10. know where the blade path is at all times and keep your hands and fingers well away. It's the 3" safety zone....:smile:


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I have a thin kerf rip blade, a full kerf rip blade, and a cross cut blade that is thicker than full kerf. What is the best method to tackle this with a splitter. Ok, the best method would be to buy 3 saws and leave them setup, but short of that what is the best method.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK, I can't give my usual answer ...LOL*

Instead of 3 saws, use a  thin kerf splitter. The full kerf rip blade won't care if it's ahead of a thin kerf splitter. But running a full kerf splitter won't work on a thin kerf blade. Cross cutting doesn't need a splitter.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Instead of 3 saws, use a thin kerf splitter. The full kerf rip blade won't care if it's ahead of a thin kerf splitter. But running a full kerf splitter won't work on a thin kerf blade. Cross cutting doesn't need a splitter.


Or have zero clearance inserts with splitters for each blade, much cheaper than 3 saws. :laughing:


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## Max613 (Oct 9, 2012)

*Safety*

As a at home woodworker one thing that I do is shut down any machine that I am running when someone come into the shop.

Many people just do not get it that you need to pay attention to what you are doing and think that you can talk and work on a project at the same time.


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## marty oc (Nov 21, 2015)

I learned to recheck any machine whenever I do any kind of maintenance. About four years ago I resharpened the blades on my jointer and apparently did not tighten one of them properly. It came loose within a second of restarting it, put a three or four inch crack in the out-feed table and flew into a wall. The jointer was ruined and had to be replaced. My only "injury", fortunately, was an adrenaline rush. I now recheck all maintenance assemblies and do occasionally find something not quite right, but have had no repeats. I also got careless while making a number of resawn pieces on my bandsaw just before last Christmas and sliced the tip of my middle finger off, fortunately just short of the bone. I have been woodworking as a hobby for over forty years, so accidents can happen no matter how experienced you are.

I hope you all have a good project underway and are enjoying yourselves.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Use this picture next time. It demonstrated all necessary safety precautions ( including the hold down on the other side.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*not for a "righty" ...*



hwebb99 said:


> Use this picture next time. It demonstrated all necessary safety precautions ( including the hold down on the other side.
> 
> View attachment 201441


:no:
Being right handed, I would find that positioning totally awkward. My off fall/scrap is always on the right side of the blade whether it's on the Bosch slider or the radial arm saw. I hold the material with my left hand and push or pull the saw with my right. Hey, if it works for you fine, but understand "handedness" comes into play for this operation.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> :no:
> Being right handed, I would find that positioning totally awkward. My off fall/scrap is always on the right side of the blade whether it's on the Bosch slider or the radial arm saw. I hold the material with my left hand and push or pull the saw with my right. Hey, if it works for you fine, but understand "handedness" comes into play for this operation.



I usually cut the other way, but when using a stop it works better this way. I'm going back to the shop this afternoon. I will take another picture later.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Is this better?


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

hwebb99 said:


> Is this better?
> 
> View attachment 201658
> 
> ...


You obviously got no dust collection happening in those pictures. 

That crap can cause all sorts of health problems and those pictures promote unsafe practices in my opinion. 

Seriously dude... Do want some kid to see that and think it is somehow 'safe' or possibly even 'cool' to have fine sawdust slung around their shop everywhere? :huh:


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

OnealWoodworking said:


> You obviously got no dust collection happening in those pictures. That crap can cause all sorts of health problems and those pictures promote unsafe practices in my opinion. Seriously dude... Do want some kid to see that and think it is somehow 'safe' or possibly even 'cool' to have fine sawdust slung around their shop everywhere? :huh:


 How do you know I wasn't wearing a respirator? Ok, I admit I wasn't, but I was wearing hearing protection. The factory dust collection on that saw is very near worthless. It catches about .5% of the dust. I am in the process of building some kind of hood to catch it.


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## WoodWorking Newbie (Nov 16, 2015)

Thanks everyone for the discussion on safety.:thumbsup:

You know, ever since i bought my first chop saw, i've been reading, watching and learning more on safety articles and videos, than on tutorials of what i could possibly do with it. I especially read up and view those articles/videos with horrific consequences (not that i rejoice in others' misfortune or simply being a sadist), but that i may be as sober and vigilant as ever, when using a power tool.

Sometime ago, I've heard from my local contractors/hardware store owners the many tragic and gruesome real life stories, and after owning a chop saw, I've decided to do my own research about this online. True enough, the consequences of mishandling them is really that horrific! Since then, I always view a power tool, esp. the hand held, high velocity type like the angle grinder, with extra caution...and i certainly wont be standing near a worker, enjoying the view of them working with it up close, like i did years ago!! Ignorance is NOT bliss when it comes to power tools safety! The truth about them has to be told, ALOUD !

Here's a story from a news article which has a good and happy ending :smile: (gentle reminder, it has graphic content):

http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/welder-millimetres-death-after-slashing-4039112


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

I am not giving away any information to access the article, have always been curious why so many here are so fascinated with sharing blood and gore.
I have worked with machinery most of my life, I have seen accidents, cleaned up after them, so I understand the dangers, just not fixated by them.


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## WoodWorking Newbie (Nov 16, 2015)

I think too many newbies (and i'm one of them) don't really understand the danger of occupational safety. We tend to be overconfident in own ability to handle the job, and underestimate the life-changing consequences of mishandling a power tool/machinery.

I see that you're from BC, Frank...I'm sure you're already well aware there's a channel called WorkSafeBC on Youtube...it has the most impressive case studies and investigations of work related accidents, which has made me so much more aware of the life threatening danger in what seems to be an ordinary working environment. The other WorkSafe channels from other states/countries aren't that helpful, to be honest...sorry guys i have to be blunt on this.

Something new which i learnt recently... inflating a tire wrongly could kill a person. Well, it may not be new and astounding to most seasoned and experienced professional, but it certainly has opened my eyes wide.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Newbies may have their problems when it comes to safety issues but we more experienced woodworkers have our own "safety" related problems while giving out our advise. We have done these procedures so often, they have become automatic for us. Take for instance ripping on the table saw. If a newbie ask me how to do it, I may respond with "the danger of kick back" and how to avoid it. Make sure your fence is square... stand clear of the fly zone... if your stock rocks on the table, flip it over so it doesn't rock no more, and if does, don't rip that piece, get a piece that will not rock... always use a push stick...

I've done this so often that when I advised to use a push stick, I think it's a done deal. Well it's not! Not all push sticks are the same and unfortunately, commercial push sticks are like the red one pictured below. The red push stick is OK for the band saw but dangerous to use on a table saw. It is dangerous because it tends to apply downward pressure on the back side of the stock thus raising the lead end of the board - causing kick-back. The long nose homemade push stick allows me to keep downward pressure on the front of my cut. My stick is also 1/2 inch ply allowing me to cut thinner stock.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

BernieL said:


> Newbies may have their problems when it comes to safety issues but we more experienced woodworkers have our own "safety" related problems while giving out our advise. We have done these procedures so often, they have become automatic for us. Take for instance ripping on the table saw. If a newbie ask me how to do it, I may respond with "the danger of kick back" and how to avoid it. Make sure your fence is square... stand clear of the fly zone... if your stock rocks on the table, flip it over so it doesn't rock no more, and if does, don't rip that piece, get a piece that will not rock... always use a push stick... I've done this so often that when I advised to use a push stick, I think it's a done deal. Well it's not! Not all push sticks are the same and unfortunately, commercial push sticks are like the red one pictured below. The red push stick is OK for the band saw but dangerous to use on a table saw. It is dangerous because it tends to apply downward pressure on the back side of the stock thus raising the lead end of the board - causing kick-back. The long nose homemade push stick allows me to keep downward pressure on the front of my cut. My stick is also 1/2 inch ply allowing me to cut thinner stock.


 I use a similar homemade push stick with a handle about twice that tall. The red push stick has its place, but not on the table saw. I would use the red one with the assistance from a push block on the router table or jointer.


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## WoodWorking Newbie (Nov 16, 2015)

It's always a pleasure to learn from others...even more so from experienced people. :notworthy: I would rather learn the right things, the first time around, and through the easy way which is to say from others who have done it before, than to learn it the hard and painful way on my own.:wallbash:


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

WoodWorking Newbie said:


> It's always a pleasure to learn from others...even more so from experienced people. :notworthy: I would rather learn the right things, the first time around, and through the easy way which is to say from others who have done it before, than to learn it the hard and painful way on my own.:wallbash:


I was on a jobsite one time and had another woodworker that I did not know personally actually come up and start lecturing me about how useless my blade guard was on my Makita and try to tell me how to pin it up to make the saw 'better' in his opinion.

I noticed right away that this guy was missing the better part of three fingers on one hand and I asked him how it happened. 

Can you guess where this story is going yet?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

To me the most feared woodworker is one who thinks he or she is too smart to get hurt on a power tool.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

OnealWoodworking said:


> I was on a jobsite one time and had another woodworker that I did not know personally actually come up and start lecturing me about how useless my blade guard was on my Makita and try to tell me how to pin it up to make the saw 'better' in his opinion. I noticed right away that this guy was missing the better part of three fingers on one hand and I asked him how it happened. Can you guess where this story is going yet?


 How did the accident happen? Would the blade guard have actually helped anything?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*on a circular saw ....*

Lots of expert/experienced framers wedge up the blade guard on their circ saws. There's usually a scrap of wood to jam the blade in to stop it or they just use the roof sheathing. The most frustrating thing I have experienced is trying to slice off a piece that just the right size to jam in between the blade and the inside of the guard and it won't go forward.

A small wedge between the blade guard and the blade cover is what I've seen and it's easy to pull out when it's not wanted. Usually the accident that occurs is a leg wound because they forget about the exposed spinning blade and rest it on their leg. Missing finger would require some additional "expertise" .... just sayin':thumbdown:


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> Lots of expert/experienced framers wedge up the blade guard on their circ saws. There's usually a scrap of wood to jam the blade in to stop it or they just use the roof sheathing. The most frustrating thing I have experienced is trying to slice off a piece that just the right size to jam in between the blade and the inside of the guard and it won't go forward.
> 
> A small wedge between the blade guard and the blade cover is what I've seen and it's easy to pull out when it's not wanted. *Usually the accident that occurs is a leg wound because they forget about the exposed spinning blade and rest it on their leg.* Missing finger would require some additional "expertise" .... just sayin':thumbdown:


Or someone uses the saw and then goes to set it down while the blade is still spinning - Saw then goes racing across the floor or whatever. Not cool.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

hwebb99 said:


> How did the accident happen? Would the blade guard have actually helped anything?


Just to be clear - This was on a miter saw and I have no idea if the guard could / would have prevented this guys accident or not.


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## sawdust703 (Jun 27, 2014)

Mr. Bernie, you said it, brother! And for those who think they are invincible, or been there, done that, those are the fellers to walk a wide path around. Woodnthings, after 50 years of woodworking, & you've still got all your fingers by doing things the way you do, congrats. But, I'm not sure I agree w/your rules. No Sir, I'm no master craftsman. I know what works for me, respect my tools, know what they all sound like under load, & when there is problems. You're not alone at being around equipment all your life. I've been in the trucking business, & farming all my life. Some of the accidents I've seen, & helped with roadside, just baffle me at what folks will do. Blood & gore on this site, imho, is pointless. If you think you really have to see it, watch more TV. There are other ways to make the point. One of the first things in shop safety should be, imho, is to learn the sounds of your equipment. Learn to clean up after yourself. Focus on what that blade is doing, & where your hands are. You can learn ALOT just from studying your machine a little before putting your hands on it, & its uses. You can't learn much from a fool with a big ego, & no fingers. I've learned to use every tool I own myself. Not bad for a fat ol' truck driver, huh? I hadn't ever been around any of the tools I now own until 15 years ago. I started goin to the library & checkin out books about the first tools I had, And continue to do so. I'm no longer on the road, so I get more readin time, & more shop time. When I'm asked about tool & shop safety, the first thing I say is "this is what works for me." I still have all my fingers, no broken bones, nothing. And I spend everyday, 8 - 10 hours a day, as my health allows, in the shop. As for pictures, most of them are for training purposes. If a feller don't have sense enough to know that, & be able to see in the picture what is trying to be explained, then disaster is around the corner. Spend your time woodworking, instead of picking things apart that don't suit you. Enjoy the day.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*just to be clear here ...*



woodnthings said:


> Lots of expert/experienced framers wedge up the blade guard on their circ saws. There's usually a scrap of wood to jam the blade in to stop it or they just use the roof sheathing. The most frustrating thing I have experienced is trying to slice off a piece that just the right size to jam in between the blade and the inside of the guard and it won't go forward.
> 
> A small wedge between the blade guard and the blade cover is what I've seen and it's easy to pull out when it's not wanted. Usually the accident that occurs is a leg wound because they forget about the exposed spinning blade and rest it on their leg. Missing finger would require some additional "expertise" .... just sayin':thumbdown:



I am NOT advocating this practice and I have never done it myself. I have held back the blade guard with one hand while getting the saw to start on a thin rip, but after it gets going, I let it release....

An yes, I have over 50 years using a circ saw and table saws and still have all my fingers and have never been nicked by a saw blade. I don't know what rules or practices you are referring to. Got an example?


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## sawdust703 (Jun 27, 2014)

Read your own posts, woodnthings. I'm not going to lock horns with you over safety, or your way of thinking. It works for you, that's the important thing. Your "rules" as you call them, may not always work in a not so perfect shop. I agree, again, shop safety is a serious matter, & should be taken seriously at all times. How you handle it in your shop, around your equipment, is your own affair. My shop has grandkids going through it at times, so I have to take a few extra precautions. Tool use is another matter. Safety, common sense, focus, listening, among other habits take over. You pointed out some good information to know, but, at the same time, all of it works for you, in your conditions. What about the fella that ain't never owned a table saw before, & is trying to build up nerve enough to flip the switch on his for the first time? Think about that for a minute. Truth is, if you have a fear of the machine, you're more apt to respect it, & learn its capabilities at your own speed. And with more caution! Where as someone like you & I, with years of experience with equipment, that fear the newbie experiences is gone in us, so to speak. We know what the machine will or won't do, where & where not to put our hands & fingers, on & on. I've been around a little myself. That's the problem with subjects like this. Some are crazy over safety, some are more lax. You've done your part. Leave it at that. Enjoy the day.


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## Max613 (Oct 9, 2012)

*Safty Tips*

My neighbor was having a roof redone a few years ago. I saw a worker rest a piece of plywood across his leg to cut it with a circular saw. This is how a professional roofer works, I had to look away as I did not want to be a witness to the mishap that was about to happen. As luck would have it he got away with it that time. I guess that you cannot fix stupid...


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

I've found most accidents are done by novices that don't know what to be aware of---

Or old experienced guys that have gotten to comfortable and cut corners----


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

mikeswoods said:


> I've found most accidents are done by novices that don't know what to be aware of---
> 
> Or old experienced guys that have gotten to comfortable and cut corners----


The old experienced guy getting comfortable with a machine is so true. All you have to do is get cut pretty bad one time and from then on you WILL pay attention what is going on, you won't forget.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

BigJim said:


> The old experienced guy getting comfortable with a machine is so true. All you have to do is get cut pretty bad one time and from then on you WILL pay attention what is going on, you won't forget.


I second that. It only takes one brick of walnut being rocketed into your stomach to make sure you always use that riving knife :whistling2:


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

For some reason, I have always been the one to render first aid and then drive the victim to the emergency room---

Because of this, I am always listening to the sounds of tools being used by others---I can often hear bad technique or dull blades and head off a possible injury---

Be careful everyone---
My old wood shop teacher once said this," A power tool is nothing more than a hand tool with malicious intent."


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

I think this is a very important topic to be discussing, so I hope it moves forward...

One suggestion to all new and experienced woodworkers - read the instruction manuals to all the tools you own, even if you think you know the tool. Tool manufactures are always adding new bells and whistles to their newer models, so don't miss out on these. Keep these instructions and manuals around. You may wish to refresh your knowledge from time too time.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*safety rules...*

There are several safety rules for the table saw. After you have years of experience you know which of the rules you can break and not get injured. For purposes of this topic I won't disclose which ones I have broken ..... :no: .. like in firearm safety, you can break 2 of the 3 rules without a mishap, but not all three. 

All power tools are dangerous.
Never place your hand in line with the blade.
Never place twisted or curved material on the saw table or against the fence.
Always wear eye protection.
Always use the blade guard/cover.
Always use the splitter or riving knife when possible.
Never hold onto the cutoff while making the pass.
etc. etc......:smile:


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

I kind of feel like we all learn the hard way at some point. Until you have an accident I don't see how one could argue having the same respect for the tools as those who have.

That's not to say I wish an accident on anyone but if you're in this hobby long enough it will more than likely eventually happen. The best we can hope for is that it doesn't cause severe damage.


Regardless, only then will one have a true respect for tool safety. I think it's part of the journey to becoming a more competent user of tools.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

During a woodworking class in school many years ago, I saw a student turn off the router and proceed to brush away chips with her hand before the bit stopped spinning. There was an incredible amount of blood and I quickly learned respect for the router even though I have never been seriously hurt by my tools. 

Perhaps that's why, of all the tools in my shop, I'm most afraid of the router.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I did that once also*

I was running a Bridgeport Mill on some aluminum, slow speed and the chips were building up faster that I thought they should so I brushed them away with my finger and that's when the cutter took a bite out of me. Fortunately, my boss was right there to have me sit down and render of assistance. According to him I was slowly turning a pale green and I was feeling a bit "wobbly". There was no big loss of blood and most of the damage was confined to the fingernail, which has completely grown back. It was your story that made me recall the incident that happened about 50 years ago. I use a shop brush these days for chip removal..... just sayin':yes:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Here is my injury from 1985 with dado blades. There's not a moment when I'm on a table saw or other machinery that I'm not reminded in the back of my mind of the potential danger of these tools. I actually have walked away from a table saw when it gets the best of me(mentally) and take break. I can only imagine someone being in a head on accident,surviving and getting behind the wheel again. Your more aware than before.

You can take a lifetime of woodworking and knowledge on these machines and still get hurt. I really shack my head at woodworkers when they say "I still have all 10". That could easily change in a split second.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Rebelwork said:


> I really shack my head at woodworkers when they say "I still have all 10". That could easily change in a split second.





That's how you can tell the novices from the more experienced.

The more experienced would say, "I'm lucky enough to have not lost all ten yet."


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

My first job when I was in high school was as a stocker in a small supermarket. The owner was missing two fingers said to have happened years earlier while cutting meat on a bandsaw. So what was one of my duties when working evenings? Yep you guessed it, cleaning the bandsaw in the meat department! Thinking back, when trained to do it I don't recall ever being told to unplug it! Just simply take the band off first then the other components to completely clean it. Reassemble and turn the top wheel by hand to make sure the band was installed properly. I learned quickly to fold and unfold the band safely. But I didn't buy a band saw for almost 30 years as I didn't even want to be near one. I always have a push stick at hand before turning on the tools.


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## MadMan330 (Jan 14, 2016)

*Informative post here!*

That's a very succinct post about the first things to take into account with safety. I once had to drive my dad to the hospital as a teenager and want to remind you all this - with a bad cut, always keep it elevated above the heart. Little things like this could mean the difference between keeping a finger and not.


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