# SMITHBROTHER, new builds, [email protected] one time.



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have started one of the two builds. It will be a football like the other, but instead will evolve out of a 18" long chunk of walnut. That means only 3/4 of the ball will be turned, and the remaining will be the CHUNK. It will stand on end, or maybe at an angle, who knows at this point. Pictures of the start will be posted very soon. The exposed football will be approx. 8" long.

The other is a sofa table as a gift to our son and his bride/family.

Tonight a decision will be made on the design, but here are the two finalist. I don't normally work directly from another design, but always EXCEPTIONS TO THE RULE, huh? 

Adjustments in height will be made. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

Here are the two 18" long X 4" thick chunks ready to be glued. I purchased this restored/tuned up 12" plane for $20.00, and it flattened out the pieces very nice. 

I have the football contour jig back on the lathe, I had set stops on the lathe bed B4 I had removed it because I knew I would probably turn a ball for myself.

Tonight I will chuck in the lathe, and soon begin.

Later tonight I will post the picture of the sofa table choice. We are having evening meal with son and family, so will make that choice tonight.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*Nfl football build*

I had mentioned I was making some FUNKY/FUN frames for our son's game room, well here they are. More auto related stuff to come. 

Each poster is 16" X 24", total frame width is 72". 

The red is actually darker in real life. Every room needs some RED.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

Ok, tonight family decided on a SOFA TABLE with storage, and this is what I will build. They have a contemporary home, like arty things TOOOOOOOOOOO!

It will be 84" long, 32" tall, 78" long, and 20" deep. Doors on each end, four drawers in middle.

Construction will begin later this week, bride of 54 years wants me to paint bedroom, HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE, I have a wonderful, caring, thoughtful, understanding, smart art wife. I is the lucky one.

Dale in Indy


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

All right. Let the building (and my watching) begin.


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## gmcooter (Jan 22, 2015)

*book shelf*

Here is a picture of a book shelf that just recently completed. This is the 2nd one I have made like this. It attaches to the wall. Its made of birch plywood. gmcooter


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

I started to glue up the two chunks, and didn't like the match.

As you can see, I'm ok on the right, but I have a TWIST, so when I push down on back right it rocks. Probably 1/16+"

Two 4" thick chunks won't bend under clamps, so need to be tight to start with. 

I sprayed/dusted some auto primer on the two surfaces, and will plane and that should show me where my HIGHS/LOWS are. I'm using a 14" plane, the surfaces are 18" long. I'm using a good straight edge in all directions to check such, and a feeler gauge.

Dale in Indy


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## Travico (Dec 25, 2012)

WOW, Those are some nice projects and this is going to be a good build!!!!!!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

I am taking the two chunks over to a friends shop, he is super good with a plane, and we will work out the twist. I should glue Saturday, and have in the lathe Sunday.

I am buying an electric chain saw to do some of the major trim work B4 it hits the lathe. Remember this football will only be turned as a football approx. 8" long, remaining will be within the chunk with live edge intact.

I have the basic construction plans finished for the 84" console table. the frame/legs will be steel.. Angle iron frame, with just one side exposed, probably 1-1/4" iron, and approx. 1" X 6" round legs, welded to the frame, all welds hidden. Lower 3" of the legs, probably stainless steel round. Picture of such is in post # 4.

I will post a picture of a credenza we have in our home, it is my guide for construction methods. Neat 60's piece, with very neat wood hinges.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

Here is the piece we own, and construction methods will be my guide, MOSTLY.

Wood door hinges will not be used in this piece, I THINK.

We also have the tall companion piece pictured. 

The painted walls are NOT the blue they appear, more to a green side in real life. The first two pic's are more like the wall color, last pic is wrong.

The 3rd. picture, is not my arm, it's a bunched up sweat shirt, hehe. 

Just a havin fun,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

Ok, getting back on the football. I have several projects going, LIKE MANY OF YOU, I'm sure.

1st. pic is the two 4" X 8" X 18" chunks glued, clamps removed, and today I will mark centers, and put in lathe. Remember only 3/4 of the football will be tuned, the rest will remain inside the chunks with live edge. That lead shot bag weighs 90 pounds, I use it to hammer shapes etc. It's in a canvas bank bag....duct tape toooooooo! 

2nd. pic is 21" X 46" wall hanging I am just finishing, it will go above our head board. Most pieces are 1/2", but some 3/4" to give a different look/feel. 

3rd. is 7 different ultra leather scraps from my Buick interior build, well, 6 of them came from the left overs, the light color is paint, it is the same as bedroom wall color. The hanging will have a 3/4" gloss black frame. I totally understand many of you won't like my art work, but I do, and each to his own, huh....

4th. is a stainless steel cross I made for bride. It is 1-1/2" square tube, 30" long with barb wire from North Dakota old ranch. Tig welded ends, and back of cross bar. 

Just having fun, 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

Here is my arty leather piece, more to come B4 room is finished. 

The light colors are same as walls, it's called RAIN. The light ones are blocks painted, the other 6 colors are ultra leather scraps from my street rod interior. Camera doesn't show colors as they are, one is purple, but a tad brighter than shown.

I have the walnut in the lathe, but will come out tonight. I need to remove approx 9" of the bark length near the tail stock. That portion will be turned into the football, well, 3/4th. of a ball. The length of the walnut is 18" X approx. 9". 

It will swing, but now hits the tool rest base. Removing the bark will allow it to clear the tool rest base. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

I am signing OFF......

No problems with the site, no health issues, just so much on my plate that I need to address, and I have been spending to much time on line, PERIOD. 

I am having fun, and feel time is right for me to beat my drum and continue to enjoy my interests without spending time on line.

Enjoy what ever you are doing, I wish you the best. 

Dale L. Smith
in Indy


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I hope this doesn't mean signing off for good. You can't just put a note like that on the end of a build thread and disappear. :no::laughing:


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Wow, Dale, hope it's not for good. I'll miss you man.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

rayking49 said:


> Wow, Dale, hope it's not for good. I'll miss you man.


X2


I don't even live in the States but I sure felt like I was "having fun in Indy" right along with you thru your posts. :thumbsup:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

When you said sofa table and then showed the picture I was thinking coffee table.

Not sure what a sofa table is. Definition?

George


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*smithbrother*

I have peek it a few times, CAN'T STAND ALL THE LARGE ADS that are now taking so much space, and very distracting. 

I'm history, but HAVIN FUN, Gods speed to you ALL, anyone that might want to visit/share info, PM me, and I will give you E-address.

I'm finished posting.

Dale L. Smith
in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm back on the second football.

I mounted on lathe, and way, way out of balance, so a friend gave me 8 wheel weight strips, it took 4 strips or 12-oz to do the trick. Taped them in place, and now very good balance. 

Here is the shot of the weights taped in place, and another photo showing the spares.

I started turning, and the spur drive wanted to slip, so removed, and will mount with a face plate.

Remember, this ball will be 3/4 of the ball turned, and the remaining 1/4 will be in the bark end. Kind of like a new born baby POPPING out......, we will see.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Super day here in Indy, approx. 70-degrees, sunny, and no wind, so worked on our property, we have 3 acres, all woods, well, 30 minutes of grass to cut up close to our home. 

I have a 55-gallon burn barrel, so used it cleaning up fallen branches, etc.

Tonight I worked on the walnut football, you can see I have most of it in rough form. Approx. 1/6th. of the ball will remain in the chunk, so more yet to come off . 

Originally I had thought I would leave 1/4th. in, but it didn't look right, so turning more football. 

1st. pic. shows just a few fingers of my jig are down on the chunk, to much bouncing until piece is more round.

2nd. shows more fingers down, and piece is spinning. 

3rd. shows it stopped, if you look at the bark you can see I hand cut more bark off, so that will be my turning stopping point. 

I fixed my slipping issue, glued a round plug in where the spur center goes as to have a new bite spot, that did it. 

Just a havin fun,


Dale in Indy


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Cool!


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

rayking49 said:


> Cool!


I agree.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

For any that hadn't seen how my 1st. football turned out a few weeks ago, here is the finished piece. 

Lace work is electrical #10 bare wire, hammered into shape. 

It was a gift to our son-in-law who played in the NFL for Seattle, and Colts.

Dale in Indy

P.S. The one I'm turning now is from the same chuck of walnut, came out of a log cabin in Wisconsin.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I started back on the football a few minutes ago. I was working on the nearly finished end, and using a cut off tool turned the end spindle down to 5/8", then it began to wobble, so I shut it down.

I then noticed a crack in the '5/8" spindle/stub, so knew my turning was in trouble.

I decided to take out of the lathe, didn't need it flying off, and crashing to the floor, so I will finish by hand. I don't mind hard hand work, sure does give me total control, hehe. 

I was planning on turning approx. another 1/2" off the bark end, you can see where I started such, but now that won't happen. 

I was actually lucky I shut it down in time, as is it will turn out fine, just needs lots of hand work. 

I may cut the base bottom at a slight angle so the ball is tilting a tad.

Anyway, here it is, now to do the hand work. 

Fun Fun,

Dale in Indy, FINAL 4 TOWN, SUN is out, and lots and lots of folks in town. I want anyone to win, BUT KENTUCKY. Michigan State coach is from my brides home town, IRON MOUNTAIN, MICHIGAN, upper Michigan, so YOU know who SHE is rooting for, Lol.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

After some thought I realized I could drill a small starter hole in the stub end that had cracked, and I cut off, then reverse the ball in the lathe.

I was concerned it might be off center, but it was withing 1/32", so balanced as well as I could and went back to work. 

I'm trying to decide whether to turn the base top like a BOWL, say a concave approx. 1" deep, that will also allow me to extend the ball a tad more. THINKING,,,,.

1st. pic. shows it reversed, with bark end towards the head stock, and weights taped in place.

2nd. is a sanding stick I made to reach in the corner.

3rd. Out of the lather, and deciding whether to turn the top of the base towards a concave bowl shape. The what appears to be a split in the piece will disappear when I cut in the seam. There will be four seams. 

The entire piece is 18" long/tall. 

Dale in Indy


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Your work continues to impress me. Thanks for sharing. As always, I'm looking forward to your progress posts.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Last night with the football off the lathe, and sitting on a table that I could see while watching a TV show I noticed the PROPORTIONS weren't quite right, I have a good eye for such. So did some measuring and found the ball was to LONG. This all happened with the jig being out of position. Remember the jig came off when I swapped the ball end for end.

1st. pic. shows jig off the lathe, you can see it's a simple piece.

2nd. is the ball and jig in place, dowel rod keeps the last finger from creeping to the right, and out of place. Weighs just help each finger fall in place, weights are NOT needed on most other fingers.

If you look close at the center of the jig, some fingers are higher than those on the left, so material will be turned off from the center out to the right.

The jig is clamped to the bottom of the bed rails
So will do that tonight. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, reworking the jig, and removing the material needed, I am very please. 

1st. pic shows the nearly finished ball.

2nd. shows how much I removed. The stub ended up at 1/2" O.D.

3rd. shows fingers resting on the resting stop.

The post before this shows fingers and material needed to be removed, and 1st. picture here shows that material GONE. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

It's off the lathe, now to sand, sand, and sand.

Next will be to mark and drill for the copper lace work, then cut the seams in. The glue joint will be two of the seams. I will cut the base at a slight angle to present the piece better. IMO 

I have it in my computer room where I keep my models, etc. 

Won't work on it more today, family coming for Easter big meal, my bride of 55 years, LOVES TO COOK, and have family over. 

Later,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Today I will detail for you how I make the copper lacing.

1st. shows bare electrical # 10 copper solid wire. Box stores sell by the foot.

2nd. a piece cut to 2-1/2" long, and stuck in hole in my 5/8" steel plate, drilled same size as wire. 

3rd. I hammered it over with plastic mallet. 

4th. I removed it, move over to another hole that is drilled so that when I hammer it over the edge it will end up being 1" center to center between pins. 

Next post in a few will take the steps further,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More of the copper lacing work.

For some reason my system won't allow more than two pic's at a posting, strange. Does this, and then next time it doesn't.

1st. shows a cross lacing bent and ready to be hammered into shape.

2nd. it has been hammered, now taking a flat punch, and driving the piece back into a straight piece.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Continuing to shape lace.

1st. hammered into basic shape.

2nd. sanding the sides flat. Wide vise grips do great job holding while sanding.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More,

Marking for cross lacing. Spacing is 1" across, and 5/8" between lacing. 

Test fitting, and starting to cut in long seam.

Dale in Indy


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

Looking good Dale.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Moving along, cross laces are rough hammered, and fitted, but NOT driven in. I also hammered the long laces flat on my large anvil, will cut off to length, and shape ends.

The last picture is pile of walnut chips/dust from this turning.

Tomorrow I will cut the stub off, and shape the end, then lots of sanding B4 Watco oil flooding begins, at least 5 coats wet sanded up to 800-1000.

Now to watch the game. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Today along with other projects I am working on, I found time to cut in the four seam lines. Now to hand round over each, then finish sanding and flooding with Watco oil.

1st. pic. shows lightly scoring the seam with hacksaw blade in a handle holder.

2nd. shows using a small triangle file to make the seam pronounced, and 'V' shaped.

3rd. is ball with all seams cut, but yet to be rounded over. 

Still havin fun,

Dale in Indy


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

I gotta admit, I couldn't visualize what you were going for when you first described this project, but it's 10 times cooler than I thought it would be. Maybe even 12 times.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Tonight I defined the seams, completed the long copper lacing, and the first round of sanding. I will tomorrow take the sanding to finer grits, and hope to begin the flooding of Watco oil Saturday at the latest.

I am going to hammer/shape a copper leaf or two, with stem, and have it coming out of the front bark area. I will also incorporate a real walnut out of its covering on the piece too. 

2nd. pic shows the picture of the leaves I will make, the one on the right, probably the top three leaves. Also see the copper sheet that such will come from.

I love copper, and it flows so well with the walnut, IMO.

Later,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Hello,

Today I worked in the yard, TONIGHT in the shop, I sanded the football a bit, and made my FIRST copper walnut leaves.

I would give my first go at it,,,, a grade of 'C'.

1st. pic. is paper leaf being traced on .021 ga copper sheet.

2nd. I heated it cherry red using my mapp gas torch, this softens the copper so it works easy. I did this on my large very old anvil.

3rd. I used a blunt chisel to crease the center.

4th. After that I took a sharp wood chisel and stamped in the veins. I also took some smooth faced pliers, and gripped the copper approx. 3/16" all around the edge and bent such down.

So here is the cluster of three leaves, I'm a tad pleased, will do a few more and see if I can improve. I will solder together, and have the main stem coming out of the bark, kind of like a SUCKER growth. I will have a portion of the cluster sticking above the bark, like the picture shows, MAYBE....

Any of you that has made copper leaves, HINTS are most welcome. PLEASE.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Yes, Yes, I know these posts are boring, but at least I enjoy what I'm doing, hehe. SUFFER FRIENDS, SUFFER, Lol.

1st. pic. shows it on the table saw, I wanted to cut the base off at approx. 6-degrees so that the ball leans back a tad. You can see the pencil marks on the chunk showing the PIE shape to be cut off. 

2nd. Shows it cut off, and the slight tilt back of the ball. 

3rd. I scribbled pencil marks on the bottom so that when I sanded with a block, I would know my HIGHS, and LOWS.

4th. Shows marks gone, note the granite sanding block laying on top. I'm sure many of you have used such toooooooooo, but if you haven't these scraps are FREE from a granite supplier. With self-adhesive paper added, they make wonder blocks for sanding. I have several in different sizes. You can see I clamped the piece down so as to hold while I used my long block sander. 

Still having fun, FUN IS SO, SO, SOOOOO, GOOD!

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here I have soldered the three leaves together.

I am still working on perfecting the quality of the leaves, but here is kind of the placement I am thinking. I will also incorporate a real walnut with the piece. a walnut from our yard, we have several large walnut trees, so many that most walnut just go to waste .

1st. is soldering supplies.

2nd. head on shot.

3rd. close up, I will be making a round stem, and will move it over to the glue joint, thus covering such up a tad. 

Now back to sanding.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok Kids,

I started the Watco oil process last night. Was able to apply 3 flooded coats, wet sanded in the oil using 600 wet/dry paper.

Each coat slowly adds luster, so will apply 3-4 more coats today, I wait approx. 30 minutes in the flood, then do another. I'm NOT looking for a high gloss, just a nice luster. 

You can see a HINT of luster in the second pic. Don't laugh at my MESSY work top, I don't mind a messy area when I hard at it.

If all goes well, I should finish tomorrow Sunday, then off to another project. I have several going, one interesting one is I am taking a nearly perfect 1946 Buick grill and making a large BOOM BOX, with giant leather shoulder strap. Another is two small steel night stand tables, and the pulpit for the church, so HAVIN FUN. 

Dale in Indy


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Dale,

First off let me say I thoroughly enjoy watching your builds. Your work is second to none and always pushing the envelope. Now, you have mentioned "flooding in Danish oil" several times regarding projects. I know what Danish oil but this flooding process is a little confusing. While I think I may understand it, would you mind explaining this process (please include wet sanding part) a little better and then explain why you do this? Thank you very much.

Mark


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Watco oil is offered in NATURAL, LIGHT, and DARK. I am using the DARK.

I take a throwaway kitchen cooking pan, pour a pint of oil in such, then starting with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper I sand the oil as I flood the piece. I use a cheap brush, and continue to dip my brush in the run off oil. 

While it is wet, I allow the oil to sit on the piece for approx. 30 minutes, then repeat the process. I like 5-7 coats, the last two I use 800 grit paper. 

I then dry it off with a soft towel, and check on it often as the oil does bleed in certain areas. 

After it has dried a day, I will examine, and may do another coat, or just buff with a soft clean towel.

Works for me, other folks may do it different, it's WHAT EACH PERSON PREFERS. 

In post # 42 you can see the pan, the oil in such, and the brush. 

The wet sanding PUSHES the oil into the grain of the wood, and any sanding dust is too pushed in and serves as a filler, MAYBE, hehe. I believe it, but others may NOT. 

Thank You,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, bride and I went for a ride around town tonight, we like to do that most Saturday evenings, then home for homemade ham & bean soup, and french bread, NICE NIGHT.

Just installed the copper lace pieces, glued on a felt bottom, and took a couple pic's.

I sand each of the cross ties to a point, so as when driving in they don't catch on the sides. They drive in somewhat hard, but I want a tight friction fit. 

I will clean it up tomorrow, buff with a soft cloth, and take pic's with the sun light coming in our home. 

I'm not sure I will leave the walnut on the base top, but MAYBE.

Feel perfectly FREE to voice your opinions, I can't be offended, I am always open to suggestions, and advise, I LIVE AND LEARN......

It was a fun build, now on to other arty things,

Dale in Indy


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Dale,

Thanks for your detailed explanation. It makes sense the way you typed it. I appreciate you taking the time to do it.

As for your project, it has turned out wonderfully!! Thanks for taking my on the build ride. I was truly exciting..


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here are some group pictures of the large scale models I have completed over the past 3 years. 

The single football was made for and given to our son-in-law, and is back as I am having it laser engraved this week. 

This will be the last posting of the football, so soon will start a new thread on a new build. 

Thank You for looking in.

Dale in Indy


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

Beautiful work, Dale.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Rather than starting a NEW THREAD, I will just continue this.

So tonight I am working on my 1946 Buick grill that I am going to turn into a BOOM box. Dad was with Buick for nearly 60 years, so grew up in a Buick dealership. I have two Buick's, a 1941 Limited, and a 46 Buick Roadmaster. 

A boom box is NOT an original idea of mine, but it has been on my THINGS TO DO LIST for years, and years, so here we go.

I will be using BENDING 3/8" plywood to form the back top. Here you can see I have just started. This plywood bends very tight, but in one direction only. I believed over the years it has been used for lots of projects, and probably in some home archways. Maybe 

I will at some point glue in beihnd the actual grill teeth some speaker cloth, black. Also will be thinking about what veneers to use, maybe a combo of veneers, and painted areas. 

I am looking for a small quality boom box to insert thru the back with a access door. 

Any suggestions on a radio is welcomed. 

Dale in Indy

P.S. I will make a giant leather shoulder strap toooooooo.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Continuing the Buick boom box.

1st. pic show a scrap and how easy it is to bend this plywood.

2nd. shows both sides cut, and fitted.

3rd. shows a long thin lip that is in the way, so had to cut off.

4th. is air die grinder with super thin cut off disc, the thinner the blade the better. You can see the cut off strip reaching for the sky.

Understand, what I am doing now is creating a solid pattern, will use new wood for actual enclosure. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Continuing the build.

1st. shows the top lip cut off, and ground flush. Removing the lip allows the plywood to butt up flush with the top grill bar.

2nd. I have created a poster board pattern, and now will trace to the bending plywood, and test fit.

Oh how I enjoy things I have never done before. 

Monday night's are my brides TV night, she loves two hour of auctions. GOOD FOR HER.

Dale in Indy


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

That's a cool idea....


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Love how your new football turned out. I like how it's 'emerged' from the base. 
Can't wait to see how your boom box turns out. Very cool idea.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Took some time tonight to work on the 1946 Buick BOOM BOX.

1st. pic. shows I buried an 1/8" dowel rod to give me a center peak marker. After I have all the bondo shaped, I will dig the wood out, and fill with bondo. If I don't do that, then the wood will always show up later after the paint job has been completed, BEEN THERE, DONE THAT.

2nd. shows the left half 95% complete.

3rd. is bondo on the right, note in total I have put on less than 1/2-pound, and sanded at least 1/2 off, so I end up with a top coating of approx. 1/16". Bondo sticks great to wood, and this piece will NOT have any flex it, so it won't crack. Bondo this thin will move with the wood. I use a short and long cheese grater to knock off the highs of the cured bondo, I do that just after the bondo kicks, and at that point it comes off easy. You can see one of the cheese graters in pic. #2. It is laying at the foot of the grill. The small aluminum block laying on top is one of many I have made, it's one I use a lot. 

4th. if you look close at the center, you can see the wood dowel I buried. It's FAINT, but you can see it. 

What you can't see is that I made a template of the left side, and matched up the right, so the sides match. I fastened the left wood template to the right side rear, and bondo corrected the very small differences in the contour. 

Just havin fun,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Worked on some adjusting of the top panel today.

The top panel where it touches the grill back has yet to be finished.

1st. picture shows the bottom which is actually the back, and you can see it DOESN'T touch the flat surface all around.

2nd. pic. really shows this issue. I figured it would need adjusting, I want my back panel to be flat, and NOT TWISTED. You can see the pen line I have drawn on, used a 1/2" spacer, moved it around on the flat surface to get such.

3rd. I have taken a jig saw and cut off at the pen line, and you can see it is flush now.

4th. Is a 1946 Buick front shot. See the dark gray two tone panel, well I am going to duplicate that shape, I will cut out that shape, glue to the top using 1/8" hardboard, and bondo a skim coat on top. I will have it follow the grill line as pictured. I will two tone my piece, but colors yet to be decided upon.

I will make the hood ornament tooooooooooo. 

A bit of history on such. In 1941 that hood ornament was designed, it is a bomb and bomb site. Well with the war effort, it was decided by Buick NOT to use it on the 41 cars as it might offend some folks. Well, when the war ended, the country was proud of the bomb, so the 1946 Buick's came with such in place. 

I have that emblem shown above the grill, and might use it too.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I took a few minutes to ROUGH out what might be the top 3rd. dimension of the top TWO-TONE treatment.

This was free hand, so will contour better SOON. As it runs down the grill front, it will slowly get smaller as it reaches the bottom, like the picture of the 46 Buick in a previous post. 

46 Buick's had some cool rear side reflectors, so may duplicate them in a smaller size to put at the bottom of each side. I will dig out one from my Buick stuff, and picture SOON. I think I can do such using plastic pipe, when you see one, YOU will UNDERSTAND, you is so SMART......, WELL, maybe!

Oh, how I just LOVE to do stuff in areas I haven't done B4, FUN IS SO GOOD, SO GOOD!

Going out to eat tonight with family and grandson's, always another FUN TIME.

Dale in Indy

P.S. You can see my 1947 Whizzer motor bike in pic. # 2


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here is the rear side reflector that I will attempt to duplicate smaller, say approx. 4-5" long.

It would/will go at the bottom of each side, and reflector would be seen from the back looking forward, YOU KNEW THAT, huh,,,,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Alright, spent some time tonight forming the Two-Tone 3D trim.

This is MDF 1/8" 2' X 4' = $3.49

I like this shape, so will cut the other side, and let you ALL JUDGE, hehe.

I will form a peak at the center line, just like what's on the grill top edge center. I will GENTLY round over the edge of the trim, and using my finger, push a bit of bondo against the glue joint to form a concave transformation. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, have the two top MDF pieces made, they are EXACTLY the same, so now I'm making the lip that is the transition from the top trim pieces, down 90-degrees to the grill.

I am using my handy contour gauge to exactly shape this piece. Here you can see in pic.#1 the first piece. I will make several pieces as I move across the grill, then glue them all together, and transfer the shape on ONE piece of MDF. If you don't use just ONE piece of MDF, then at some point the glue joint will work its way to the top, and a faint paint line will appear, BEEN THERE, DONE THAT.....

Next I will glut to the top trim, but FIRST the top trim pieces will be glued to the main body.

There will be a small chrome trim piece that will butt up to the lip, and hide the space between the trim and grill top.

The grill ISN'T all scratched up as it appears in the photo's. tape adhesive, and dirt is what you are seeing. 

Have NO FEAR, I will keep you posted with pictures, YOU DO LOVE PICTURES, DON'T YOU?????? 

Just a havin fun,

Dale 

P.S. It's raining, so can't work in the yard, OH WHAT A SHAME. Lol.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here you can see I have glued up several pieces of my grill contour, now will transfer to a single MDF piece.

You can see my contour gauge too, it worked great. 

Turning to another subject,,,,,,,,TODAY I received from the church a 'GO' to build a pulpit for them, so will starting tomorrow I will include build pictures. 

It's a $2,000.00 build, materials should come in less than $500.00, maybe $400.00. Solid oak, mostly 2" stuff.


Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I now have the MDF trim pieces made, and test fitted.

Next will be slightly rounding over the edges, then gluing in place the main panels, and super gluing the front edging to that.

1st. picture is the cutting of the front transition strip, you can see how thin it is, I made the pattern for the right side, and was SHOCKED that it was the same as the left. Understand lots of talk about cars of the 40's having fenders from the right side, were NOT always a reverse of such for the left, so kind of surprised me that both sides of the grill contour are exactly the same, GOOD THOUGH.

2nd. picture is the BOOM BOX laying on it back, you can really see the trim work, and front transition edge. 

I'm pleased to date, now off to the lumber yard to buy some OAK for the church pulpit build.

Dale in Indy


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I'm liking it Dale.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

Thank you for the thread. I love the football, and am looking forward to watching the pulpit come together.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Thank You guys, 

I am out the door to pick up the Oak for the pulpit, I should have a post on progress TONIGHT. 

This is the third church I have been BLESSED to build furniture for, two in Indy, one in Dallas, Tx. It warms my heart to know that a church would want me to build a pulpit for them. I'm not a religious fanatic, but a believer, I NEVER talk my feelings to others, it's a personal matter, IMO.

My mother was a wonderful lady, she inspired me in so many ways, I'm sure many of YOU feel the same about your Mother/Father.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

For those who forgot my posting of the pulpit MOCKUP, here it is again. CRUDE, I know, but it gave the church board enough info to give me a GO. Remember I had made a communion table two years ago for them, so they had an idea of quality.

Front leg arch will be 1" material, 2nd. will be 2", and 3rd will be 4". Top will be 1-1/2" net, as will the base. Front panel will be 3/4" net.

Pictures of the start to be posted in a few minutes, THANK YOU.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, purchased the Oak, and have started the build. 

1st. pic is $323.00 for solid oak. Will need approxl. $50.00 more in materials.

1 pcs. 1 X 8 X 96" = front two arches, approx. 45" long each.
1 pcs. 2 X 8 X 72" = top material
2 pcs. 2 X 8 X 96" = 2nd. set of arches, approx. 43" long each, only one board will be cut, the other is for base glue up. 
1 pcs. 4 X 4 X 96" = 3rd. set of arches, approx. 41" long each 
1 pcs. 1 X 16 X 36" = front panel

You can see in the last picture I have cut the first two sets of arches, now will camp together, and belt sand so all are equal. At the right you can see my pattern standing up.

Yet to cut is the 4" back arches, they will have arcs on TWO sides, and an glue on extension to the rear.

Just havin a FUN TIME,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

All pieces have been rough cut, going to call it a day.

Tomorrow will clamp the legs together, and run the two different size belt sanders over such to assure matching contours.

Here are the scraps, I did good in my purchase of materials, hehe. 

The 2nd picture is the 5 base pieces 2" thick and ready for gluing, I ran thru my edge planer, then clamped together on edge and hit with my #6 plane, I am happy with how they butt up, and I am going to use biscuits too. I HAVEN'T glued yet.

Be back on the pulpit TOMORROW,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm making progress.

I ran the top and base pieces over the jointer, then clamped together and ran my hand plane over to mate such.

I used my biscuit cutter and then glued the five pieces it takes to make both the top and the base.

The last picture just shows two of the five clamped, after a few hours I glued the other three in place. They are still clamped. I think the glue lines look good, sanding will tell more.

Next to clamp the leg arches side by side and hit with my belt sanders. 

Dale in Indy

P.S. While these are drying I am working on the Buick grill BOOM BOX. Sanding the trim edges, and gluing to the main body.


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

smithbrother said:


> Ok, purchased the Oak, and have started the build.
> 
> 1st. pic is $323.00 for solid oak. Will need approxl. $50.00 more in materials.
> 
> ...


Your wood comes individually wrapped? That's the classiest way to do it ☺.....


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I buy oak from Menards, I could buy a cheaper, but I like the product, and it's close to me.

YES it is wrapped.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

1st. here is the base all glued, and drying, you can see the top shelf in the background.

2nd. pic. is one pair of leg arches being sanded.

3rd. shows a close up of the pair nearly finished.

I worked on the BOOM BOX, and will post pictures tomorrow,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Worked on two customer homes today, tonight worked on both the PULPIT, and the BOOM BOX.

1st. pic. shows that I gently rounded over the trim, the super glue was used to glue the front transition strip, the trim glued so nice to the main body, I think I will NOT add any concave filler. I like the clean breaking edge. 

2nd. is a #5 knitting needle tapered at the front, and super glued in place. I first took a single hack saw blade and cut a VEE slot to cradle the steel needle. Note, the ridge continues from the grill center peak. 

3rd. shows filler in place, and a dowel rod with the contour I wanted, and sand paper glued in place. I worked well, I have to keep pushing the jig against the rod, and out so as NOT to dig a gully. I know how to keep things FLAT, and STRAIGHT, hehe. Still have filler, and sanding to do. 

4th. is the top shelf after going thru its first belt sanding. I started with 50-grit, moved to 80. I have used a belt sander lots over the years, and know to keep it MOVING, again, keeping it FLAT.

Tomorrow I don't have any outside customers, THAT I KNOW OF, so will be in the shop,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm working on both the PULPIT, and the BOOM BOX this afternoon, and night.

1st. cutting pulpit top shelf to size, 24" wide, max. 21" tall. New blade to assure clean cuts.

2nd. marking the top shelf arc.

3rd. cutting arc on band saw. I like to cut and leave the pencil line showing, then final sanding to that pencil mark. I used a 4-tooth per inch 1/2" X 93-1/2" blade. 

4th. sanding the arc B4 round over.

Pictures of the boom box later.

Cool here, but sunny, shop has heat and air, so set up for any weather condition, I'M SPOILED, hehe.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here a couple shots of the boom box progress.

Here I have sprayed on the first coat of automotive primer, will sand with 180 now, coat again, and again.

Sorry for the poor pictures. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More Pulpit work tonight, also sanded and primed the BOOM BOX again.

1st. pic, is routing round over for top shelf catch lip, note it totally rounded over on top, and half on bottom.

2nd. compass marking rear of base, a place to put a foot.

3rd. home made stick compass marking front of base.

4th. rough cut of base, it is 1-1/2" thick, 19" deep, and 24" wide.

See ya tomorrow,

Dale in Indy


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## MrFrost (Nov 10, 2014)

Love your progress pics...they always lead up to awesome finished products!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Working on both projects today.

Purchased a new 93-1/2" X 1/2" 3-tooth band saw blade today, it worked great. This Oak is 3-1/2" net thick. 

Next is sanding the two rear leg arcs.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

On the BOOM BOX, today I roughed out the air splinter, or bottom of the piece. I will have some hidden runners under such for standing on the floor/ground, say 1".

I'm thinking my inspiration for the rear of the box should come from a 46 Buick dash, WITHOUT all the frills. I have a 46 Buick so I can get contour etc. from such, and have an extra speedometer, and clock. I could take out the guts to reduce weight and install my radio/music control panel in the center, THINKING.

NO steering wheel, maybe the hole for such though. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Hello,

Today I will take the original construction lumber MOCKUP, and set one side up EXACTLY as it will be, to determine if I'm a 'GO' with what I see.

When looking at the Pulpit from the front, the legs LEAN out just a TAD, so need to test what DEGREE I want. Interesting is that the back, or 3rd. leg LEANS out even MORE. At the floor, or base it will be set out approx. 2-1/4" from the second leg, but will LEAN more at the top than the others. At the top it will show approx. 3", so when the church membership look at the Pulpit, it will have an OPEN hands look. Kind of a fold up FAN, ACCORDING LOOK. 

I will have degree figures later today, and pic's.

I will work more on the BOOM BOX, probably TOMORROW, I'm going to start the back dash panel, and see if I have the skills NEEDED, maybe, maybe not, hehe. Anyone want to bet? Lol. I have never built a dash panel B4, but NEWNESS is so so much fun. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, I have the lean out degree # figured out, it will be 2-degrees.

1st. pic. is looking from side, to show back is 90-degrees straight up. Remember this is the scrap lumber MOCKUP pictured.

2nd. shows the comparison of 90-degrees to a lean of 2-degrees,or 88-degrees.

3rd. is shot from front showing the legs leaning out the 2-degrees, NOTE the board on the left is just a temporary support. It is SLIGHT, but when BOTH legs are in place it will be more noticeable.

In total, this 2-degree lean will provide church membership to notice the slight HANDS OPEN look. 

I will cut the legs at 2-degrees, and test again, might bump to 2-1/2-degrees. I need to be careful, as I don't want the outside of the third leg at the top to extend PAST the pulpit top shelf width, which is 25". 

Thanks,

Dale in Indy 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here is shot of the dash configuration I am hoping to build for the back of the BOOM BOX. 

Maybe PAINT the top portion, and WOOD VENEER the bottom like pictured, THINKING, I do a lot of that, I bet YOU do TOOOOOOO!

The flat center section will work for my radio/music control panel.

As stated B4, I have an extra speedometer, and clock, and will come up with something to go in the two empty holes, maybe NOTHING, or a 'BUICK' SCRIPT, the engine in a 46 Buick was called a 'FIREBALL EIGHT', so I could script that on one panel. 

Life is so much FUN,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Working on the actual Oak pieces tonight.

1st. pic. shows the left side as church membership will see it, you can see the lean out, and you can see the the oak on the left is parallel with the board at the right. I hadn't been taper cut that piece when photo taken.

2nd. pic. shows taper being cut on band saw, then I ran it thru the jointer to clean it up. It taper 1 inch over 45" length, which means it is 3" at top, and 2" at the bottom. 

3rd. shows it taper cut, and in place, you can really see the fan/lean motion now. When the other side is cut and in place it will really show the open arm/hands look. The lean out is appox. 3-degrees. 

Dale in Indy

P.S. I found a 46 Buick dash panel in Pa, and am working with the owner on a price. A 46 Buick dash main stamped steel piece is approx. 52" wide, and approx. 14" tall, my BOOM BOX is 46" wide, and 14" tall. I can cut off 3 inches on each end, and fab end caps, so tomorrow I hope to make a deal, if not I will make out of wood. l


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, setting up in a test mode.

1st. pic, shows it at a very close positioning stance. 

2nd. is angle shot. note, the fat outside leg gets 3" added to the back side to give it more depth. The wood piece laying on top is just a measuring tool.

3rd. shows the Tee square checking spacing, and my pattern for the middle panel, NOTE tops have NOT been sized, cut off. The panel will have a rounded top edge, it will be oak, 3/4" with top round over also. The lighting in the shop kind of hides the right side legs, you can see them better in pic. #2.

Lot of work YET to do.

Time to call it a day, back at it TOMORROW. 

Dale in Indy


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Nice!!


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

smithbrother said:


> Here is shot of the dash configuration I am hoping to build for the back of the BOOM BOX.
> 
> Maybe PAINT the top portion, and WOOD VENEER the bottom like pictured, THINKING, I do a lot of that, I bet YOU do TOOOOOOO!
> 
> ...



That should be pretty cool.....look forward to seeing it.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm in my shop, making progress. Aligning the legs, making sure they are are equal on each side from the center line, etc. 

I am also making a pattern for the center panel. It will be a huge help in holding all pieces where they BELONG. I made a jig this morning to hold the bottom legs where they belong too. 

Pictures of this BORING work TODAY, NOT boring for me, but for YOU. hehe. SUFFER, 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, making progress, SLOW, but STEADY, kind of like a Turtle.

1st. shows spacer to hold bottom at 9".

2nd. is top center panel pattern cut, and in place, NOTE top of legs not cut to length yet. You can see jig/clamps etc. holding it all together as I confirm it standing tall and equal from the center line. The top stick has measurements on it, to assure all is correct. I'm withing a 1/16" so feel good at this point.

You can see that the two inter legs are same width, but outside leg is pie cut, so this gives it a more leaning look.

Next is to cut tops of legs, they angle down 30-degrees. The top of the front leg will be where the top of the center panel arc meets the inter leg. 

So far I am pleased with proportions, and my design, NOT TO BOOST, but such is important to me. Need to be happy with anything one BUILDS, HUH....

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Doing busy work tonight, but things that need be done.

1st. pic. shows screwing each leg to the other, I like to use either STAR or SQUARE head screws when possible. The outside leg screws are recessed, and will be plugged.

2nd. shows my 48" Tee square checking that both sides lean out an EQUAL amount. You can see the pencil mark, camera angle shows it off a bit, but it ISN'T. The legs at the base are spread 9". so I set up my jig and marked the center of it, then set the Tee square on that mark, and moved up to check the lean measurement. Not a hard thing, but important.

3rd. shows the inside of the first leg to be exactly 7" out from center. Both checked out on target. The center top panel will keep such in place. It will keep the pulpit from having any SIDE movement. 

Tonight yet I will move the uprights onto the base, and determine just where to cut the tops of each leg. 

When someone walks up to the pulpit, it will measure 42" at the lowest point of the top shelf. The minister gave me that figure, GOT TO KEEP THE CUSTOMER HAPPY, huh!

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Just did a test on a method to fasten the 1-1/2" thick base to the massive uprights.

Here is what I am thinking, or could use CORNER BLOCKS, but prefer this STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN pulling in tight method.

I used a 1-1/4" dowel, and 5/16" lag, but can use a wood to metal screw in stud with washer and nut. The dowel would be drilled from the inside, and hidden from the outside. I don't like just threading into end grain, the dowel is glued in place also. I put a lot of pressure on the lag with an ratchet wrench, and it grips super nice. IMO

Comments are MOST welcome,

Dale


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, I cut the uprights/legs. Used my compound mitre saw.

1st. shows my line, but first cut I stayed above that just to see where I was. I like to trial cut when possible, I'm sure you do TOOOOOOOO.

2nd. I cut the back leg/upright to the line, and marked the next upright. Not only does each leg have a taper/angle cut of 25-degree, front to back, but since the uprights LEAN out, then that angle has to be cut at the same time. That angle is approx. 3-degrees. So when the membership look at the Pulpit, the uprights will appear level at the tops. 

3rd. all three uprights are cut for the left side, and I also have the right side cut.

I'm calling it a day, tomorrow I will cut the angled center uppper panel, then work on the angle iron 'L' bracket I will fab, weld, and test that holds the top shelf, it will be held by two cantilever brackets.

Thanks for viewing, this piece does/did require a lot of careful thought and planning. I DON'T work from drawings/blueprints, I just wing it. Lucky I have a decent eye for the look I want. I'm sure MANY of you are in the same boat. The MOCKUP certainly helps keep me out of trouble, huh.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm working to correct a SIDE LEAN which is off approx. 3/8". In other words, it is LEANING 3/8" more to the right when standing behind the pulpit. That 3/8" is at a point 40" above the base. I'm not moving on with the project until this is corrected. PERIOD.

The top center panel is PIE shaped, and I have made a MDF 1/2" thick pattern as a draftsman would lay it out, but still the lean. Tonight I am moving the pulpit to the floor, off of a stand, I will level the base in all directions, and make another attempt.

I can't see it with a naked eye, and another person looking at it doesn't see it either, but my measurements ASSURE me there is a lean. I can't live with that, so with it on the floor and using a different approach, hopefully in an hour or so I will have this issue BEHIND ME. I don't give up.

I will report back with pictures of this issue YET TONIGHT. Lol

Dale in Indy 

My mother warned me of a "BURNT BISCUIT EVERY NOW AND THEN".


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Stupid ME,,,, I just wasn't thinking.

I made the ridged pattern out 1/2" MDF. TWICE, then after I was still off appox. 3/8" leaning to much to the right, it hit me. It wasn't my pattern, it was that I need to hold the panel tight on the right side, and tap the panel down on the LEFT, that moved the right enough to bring the pulpit in line. Then with an adjustable square I confirmed each side of the uprights were at the same angle at the base. HAPPY, HAPPY, I WAS/AM. hehe. 

1st. pic shows at the top (RIGHT) of the Tee square,the amount I was off. Camera angle doesn't show the 3/8:, but it was.

2nd. pic. shows the center line at the base, and the Tee square shooting straight up.

I'm calling it a day, tomorrow I will cut the oak center panel, but NOT the top curve, I will wait until I have screwed it in place, and then marked where to make the top arc. 

3rd. pic's now it is lined up. 

Dale in Indy

P.S. Oh, I meant to mention that I'm surprised no COMMENTS ON POST #89 on how I plan on fastening the uprights to the base. I can't be offended.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I cut our grass this morning, glued up a rock collection rack for a customer, and now I'm back on the Pulpit.

Here you can see I have the top center panel cut out of the Oak I had glued up. 

Note I have marked the TWO arcs, (ONLY ONE SIDE MARKED), but won't cut such until I have bolted the uprights to the base, and have screwed the top panel in place. I will then take apart and cut.

I hope to have the above mentioned completed yet today. 

Camera angle makes it appear that the pulpit is leaning, but it ISN'T.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I didn't make as much progress tonight as I hoped, but HEY, there is TOMORROW.

1st. pic. is pattern for drilling base, and the uprights. You can see the circled dots marking where the uprights where drilled.

2nd. is bottom of base, counter sunk, and drilled, I drilled an 1/8" bigger than the mounting stud to allow minor adjustment.

3rd, upright marked with large dot where to drill.

More pic's coming. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More progress pic's, my system only allows 3-4 pic's at a posting???

1st. is a test of the pre-drilling for the 3/8" screw, NOTE it held so tight that if sunk the flat washer into the wood, and did not strip.

2nd. is jig that steers the drill in the correct direction for drilling the dowel, it is glued in with grain running at 90.-degrees for better grip.

3rd. is in place, and tighten down, the upright has to come off so as to do the other bolt. Each upright will be held with two 3/8" lag/screw bolts. 

Last pic also shows line that will be trimmed off the base, to give more feet room. 

Dale in Indy


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Looking good. That baby is going to weigh a ton when you are finished.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I weighed each upright last night, 29 pounds each, I will weigh the other parts today, but guessing it will come in at approx. 80 pounds.

Going to be a BEAUTIFUL DAY IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD, so will work in our yard for a few hours. Will report back later today with pulpit progress. 

I tested gluing some hard foam yesterday that I will attempt to shape as my BOOM BOX dash. I will cover it with fiber glass, and finish with automotive finishes. The glue DIDN'T attach the foam, and the foam is hard enough to shape and hold its form. This method will aid a ton in keeping the weight down.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, I have all the wood cut, and the uprights fastened to the base. I'm now working on the top shelf. It is cut to size, but deciding the mounting method. 

The cardboard pattern will allow me to make the two cantilever brackets, they will be steel, flat black, and all welds concealed.

I will photo that process this weekend.

Once that is finished, I will take it all apart and do all the detail work. 

1st. pic. is cutting the top arc.

2nd. shows both the top and lower arcs rough cut.

3rd. is with the paper top shelf, the back lower edge is 42" off the floor, and is at a 25-degree angle. 

I originally wanted to put a second panel behind the top panel that goes to the base. The minister thinks he wants it open, I feel it needs the large panel, so he will take a look Monday, and we will work it out. 

Dale in Indy


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

That design is beautiful. Great lines and proportions.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

was2ndlast said:


> That design is beautiful. Great lines and proportions.


X2. 
Excellent job of all the compound angle and radius cuts. :thumbsup:


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Thank You for the kind words.

I moved it inside our home this morning, pictures in a few. I wanted to see it in a different light, so many things on the walls, and around it in the shop, well, it is hard to really tell how it looks.

Speaking of angles, there are a lot on this piece, the top DOESN'T actually sit on the tops of the uprights, but will be cantilevered up parallel approx. 3", but as a test I placed the actual top on top of the uprights to see if it had any ROCK so to speak. I am pleased to report it laid FLAT and no gaps could be found when I viewed where it actually touched the uprights on all sides.

I'm actually surprised as each upright was cut at a different time, and some after I had moved the mitre saw settings. SOMETIMES IT BETTER TO BE LUCKY, THAN GOOD, huh?

Understand the uprights LEAN out, and FORWARD, and the tops had to be cut at TWO different angles, so I got LUCKY. I did take lots and lots of measurements, and did test cuttings, it works for me, I'm not a production guy with tons of equipment, so measure often, cut once.

Dale in Indy


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looking great. I've been off here a few days. Lots of progress since I last checked. I like it. Also like how you did the lag bolts.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I will take apart this weekend and spend lots of time sanding/detailing each piece. It's rough now.

The top shelf will make it a PULPIT. 

Dale in Indy

P.S. The coffee table is 66 years old, it is an original that my dad purchased at the Chicago furniture mart in 1949. I inherited it in 2000. The picture sitting on the table is of me at age 12 with our dog SPIKE, we were sitting beside the table.


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

smithbrother said:


> Thank You for the kind words.
> 
> I moved it inside our home this morning, pictures in a few. I wanted to see it in a different light, so many things on the walls, and around it in the shop, well, it is hard to really tell how it looks.
> 
> ...


Better lucky than good...sums up my woodworking for sure.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Worked in the yard this afternoon, and we are involved in church duties tomorrow, so the pulpit will rest.

I just did some testing on a method of forming/shaping the BOOM BOX dash.

In 1980 I took my new 79 Vette, and cut most of the body off, then glassed in all new pieces, accept the door skins. I had done several fiber glass projects, so have some experience. The 1st. picture is that car, I still have it. The car has a sprint car type engine, true 14-1 compression. The tube coming out of the engine area is a crankcase evacuation line, it creates negative crankcase pressure so the pistons can move on the down stroke easier. Also aids in less blow-by.

In my testing today I learned that fiber glass resin dissolves this kind of hard foam. So I tricked it, and as a test I spread BONDO on the foam, allowed it to dry a hour, then glassed over it. IT WORKED, so probably will shape the dash with this method. You can see the glass mat, can't use glass cloth, the pattern will always work its way to the surface, DONE THAT. You can see the mini roller with ridges that pushes out the air that's under the mat.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I just couldn't sit idle today and not do something to the pulpit.

I made up some temporary wood cantilevers to hold the top shelf, and to check measurements. The actual cantilevers will be steel, flat black for contrast. 

Top is now 1-3/8", going to reduce to approx. 1-1/8", round over front, slightly bevel all uprights, and trim more off the back corners of the base. 

Did some more testing on the foam that I will use to shape the BOOM BOX dash, and happy with results. 

MOTHER'S DAY is Sunday,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

The minister just left from viewing the unfinished Pulpit, and he says, GO, I LIKE IT.

So today I am making the cantilever steel supports for the top shelf, pic's later today. Then will take apart and do the finish work. 

He brought with him a wireless MIC, as I need to make a holder for such. I want it hidden from view, so will work on that B4 I take apart. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, made the MIC holder, it will be mounted on the back of the right side rear of an upright, this way it WON'T be seen by the membership.

I took some 1-1/4" angle iron, sliced off approx. 1/2" of one side, then angle cut it so as to bend it to match the contour of the tops of the uprights. I will weld, and grind smooth in a few, they will be painted flat black, and wood screws recessed. 

Cantilever pic's in a few,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here are pic's of the steel cantilever brackets.

1st. pic. shows that I sliced off approx. 1/2" on the length, so now angle iron is 3'4" X 1-1/4". I didn't want the complete angle iron showing to the membership. This way it doesn't have so much industrial look, and I angle cut the front to give a better appearance. The pic with masking tape is what I cut off, and looking to the far left is a sample of what the iron looked like B4 slimming.

2nd. pie cutting for bend.

3rd. both cut and bent to match, I have a couple big slabs of granite that I use to check my work on. 

I will weld and grind after I have some HOMEMADE VEG. SOUP. My BRIDE is a great cook. 

I'm sure havin fun, I know it's boring to you, but FUN to ME, sorry, MAYBE.....hehe

Dale in Indy

P.S. Hey Kenbo, SEE THE SAW DUST, AND STEEL SHAVINGS???? Lol


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Welded up the cantilever brackets, ground the welds, drill holes to hold in place, and sprayed primer. I will sand and prime again, then spray a mild textured flat black paint.

I have the Pulpit all apart, and cut the back edges off of the base, and started the sanding process. Some on floor sander, lots will be block sanding, then a very slight round over. Those pic's in a few minutes.

Tomorrow will be back at it.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here is the base work, it's a glued up piece 1-1/2" thick, studs slip thru the holes then 3/8" nuts, washers are recessed up and into the base.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I worked on shaping the front panel, finished painting the cantilever brackets, and sanded the base and top shelf.

Pictures tomorrow,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Doing the BORING work, I don't mind it, but doesn't present itself as interesting progress. 

1st. pic, is first sanding of center panel. I move it fast, don't need any concave areas.

2nd. shows small sanding block I made, I have several I have made, and they work great, aids in keeping things straight, and flat. 

3rd. putting a small detail cut on inside of panel.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More pic's. Tonight I will assemble again, and mount the top shelf on the cantilever brackets for the first time, then take apart for the last time and finish sanding, and spraying on finish. 

1st. pic. is base nearly ready for finish, knot gets covered with upright.

2nd. the catch lip on the top shelf glued in place.

Rockler Woodworks here in Indy is having a build contest, and I am entering two of my recent builds. I will show you the two, after the entry date has past. It will be FUN. I will not enter my walnut football, I'm concerned about it being stolen. They haven't had a problem in the past, but I just don't want to take the risk, it would have to remain there for a month.



Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, working on mounting the top, need to tweak it a bit, but it is close.

I will tweak it tonight, then take apart, and finish.

I may be off posting for a few days. We have company coming from Michigan, and I need to do some things for our son.

Dale in Indy

P.S. OH, that Buick grill BOOM BOX in pic # 2 is asking me, WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO GIVE ME SOME MORE ATTENTION?, I say soon, and hang on there my friend.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here are a couple more pic's.

Uprights have not had edge treatment, but will.

Notice how top shelf catch lip rolls under.

Brackets will receive final spray of flat black paint B4 final install.

I'm NOT going to mount the MIC holder until the pulpit is at the church, and the minister tells me where he wants it mounted. 

Note:, my TIDY shop, hehe. When I get with a program, I allow it to get out of shape, clean up time is SOON.

Dale in Indy


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

I love this style. Good job Dale.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Thank You Mort for the kind words.

As many of you KNOW, jig aren't always used in conjunction with a tool.

Often a jig is used as an aid for assembly, so was the case with my placement of the top shelf.

Without these to jigs the mounting of the shelf would have been much more difficult.

I simply cut two blocks the distance I wanted the shelf to be above the uprights, and then allowed the shelf to lay on such while I mounted the cantilever brackets to the uprights.

Dale in Indy


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Well Dale if this is your shop on a bad day it's waaaay better than mine on any good day. My shop is a disaster,lol. Looking good man, looking real good. I like this pulpit.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I hadn't mounted the top shelf to the cantilever brackets yet , and DIDN'T want to experiment with the placement of the the brackets. I didn't need any holes not being used and showing.

So while company was out with other family members here in Indy tonight I took steps to come up with a perfect mounting method.

I cut a nice flat piece of plywood to the exact same size as the actual top shelf. I found the center, side to side, and marked that with a pencil. I made a simple inside caliper out of two sticks that when glued together each end touched just an upright at the exact same spot I knew would be my mounting point, (leaned that when mounting the top B 4. 

I transferred that measurement to the plywood, and then used a large square to make lines for each bracket. I then screwed the brackets in place.

With the help of my upright spacers I lowered the plywood and brackets in place, and BINGO, they brackets aligned perfect with the upright holes I wanted to use.

Now I can take down, and transfer the bracket screw holes to the real top, and be nearly finished.

Sometimes a builder needs to back into a mounting method, at least it works for me. 

1st. pic. shows the inside caliper I made, hard to see, but is at the top.

2nd. shows spacer holding top in the proper spaced position. Looking close at this pic. you can see that the brackets don't touch at the top where it mounts to the uprights. I will either use a steel washer, or make a spacer so that when the screws are tight the bracket is firmly against the upright. A 1/8" space needs to be filled. 

3rd. shows the markings on the test plywood top shelf. 
Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm excited,,,,,,I am entering two of my recent builds in the Rockler/WoodWorkers Journal mag (ADVENTURES IN WOOD) contest to be held late this month.

I will enter the GOOGLE TRESTLE LOCOMOTIVE, and the FOOTBALL popping out of a tree. 

Should be fun, I saw the entries last year, and they were really great builds, so I will have my hands full, but any outcome will be FUN. Can't wait to meet other builders, THAT'S THE MOST FUN...

They are having a party on the 22nd. in the evening for WoodWookers mag to photo entries, and ask questions. 

I will get pic's and keep YOU in the loop.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here is the GOOGLE LOCOMOTIVE, I will be entering in the contest, for those who hadn't seen it.

I finished it a few months ago, less than a year though.

It is 40" long, 13" tall, all solid walnut from South Dakota, and copper. 

Not in the photo's is an escape hatch that's mounted on the side of the trestle, in the middle so anyone caught on the trestle can escape to when a train is coming. Getting hit by a train HURTS, bad, real bad. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

And this is the FOOTBALL.

All my models are 24" to 40" long, non with plans, kits, drawings, just from pictures that inspired. I do one only projects, and family wont allow me to sell, hehe. 

The silver race car I cast in aluminum, and was my first model approx. 5 years ago. I have cast jewelry, and learned casting methods then. 


Dale in Indy


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

Good Luck!!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Yesterday I mounted a piece of plywood as a test for the top shelf. Today I transferred the drill points to the actual oak top.

The cantilevers are held on the top via 8 coarse thread drywall screws 1-1/4" long. 

Each of the brackets mount to the uprights via 2 lag screws, 2" X 1/4". and one 2" drywall screw. The drywall screw is near the top of the upright, and I was concerned with splitting. I predrilled all holes, and I can assure you that they will be able to grab the top, and move the pulpit around without fear it will come off.

One more step B4 I dissasemble and finish, that is to mount the center panel to the uprights, I have the mounting strips made and drilled. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Found some time on Mother's day to fasten the center upper panel to the uprights, mount the MIC holder, and roll out some oak veneer that I will be using in a couple spots.

The outside pieces of the uprights are glued up pieces, and when the arc was cut into such it exposed the glued up pieces, NOT NICE, so will veneer over to enhance the look.

I also this weekend purchase some hard foam sheeting for the back panel of the BOOM BOX. I will start that process this week. I will keep you in the loop with pic's. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here is a shot of the glued up pieces that I will cover with veneer. 

Looking close you can see the ugly glued up boards, easier to see on the very LEFT upright. Such would NOT be what I want the church membership to see. 

Dale in Indy


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Good luck with the contest.pulpits looking good.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have the Pulpit apart, and I'm installing the 3/8" X 3" HANGER screws/bolts.

I pre-drilled, these babies really hold, I tested, and with the 1" dowels glued in, and at cross grain, they will do the trick.

Now to do the sanding, and detailing, THAT MAKES THE PIECE, as you ALL know. YOU ain't no DUMMIES, huh? 

Dale in Indy


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

*Not like you need any help*

All good stuff Dale......see if these pics show up,BW


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Yep, they show up, Brothers?

Dale in Indy


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Lot's of brothers Dale...........

We're all headed to Baltimore for a big bow shoot this comin w/end.......Them boys don't have chit on "dad".Well,maybe they do,haha.......


I've got a few days to hang out on the site,but come...'round Wed eve....I'm gone.Love your work,it is an inspiration for WWingtalk.Thank you for posting.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

My brother Glen, now deceased, and I were called the SMITH BROTHER'S COUGH DROP TWINS, he was called TRADE, and I was MARK.

So the name SMITHBROTHER stuck in 1957 while in High School. I still get addressed as SMITHBROTHER, and love it. 

Enjoy the SHOOT.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Since I'm 'just' a decent WoodFunning builder/worker, I screw up TOOOOOOO!

Recently while cutting a part of the right upright on the TS I failed to secure the fence lock, and a couple inches into the cut I realized that it had moved, and was cutting into a area that SHOULDN'T be cut.

So since I am a LUCKY guy it happened to be a board that was going to have veneer glued in place anyway, I knew I would survive my screw up.

Bondo is an excellent filler on wood when veneer it going to be used, so here are the steps I took this morning to correct the screw up, and prepare for veneer. As you know Bondo sets up/kicks fast, so within 15 minutes you can start to remove the excess. A cheese grater plane is a very good tool for starters. As soon as your finger nail doesn't easily cut into the Bondo, then it's time to remove the excess. 

Dale in Indy


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Cool story Dale..........

My twins(all grown up now)...names are Cam(Cameron)...and Hunt(Hunter).

In bow world,one of Easton's MOST famous arrows is/was....their "Camo Hunter" model.Get it?snick snick.

Wifeypoo likes to get all puffed up when looking at their baby pic's."Oh,that's Hunt and that's Cam".Hate to tell her,and don't but you simply...couldn't tell them apart.But hey,whatever dear.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Oh yeah,try throwin some trans tint in your bondo for S&G's.

Further,we're a Gold Rage shop....the "good stuff"


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I needed to veneer the outside wedge pieces of the uprights, BECAUSE,,,,, #1, I screwed up cutting one inch of one end , and #2, because when I cut the arc in the pieces, it exposed the glued up pieces, NOT A PRETTY SIGHT. Just in the top section you can see THREE different grain patterns, not nice......

Here is how I did such.

1st. pic. shows how UGLY the piece looked with the glued up oak layers showing once the arc was cut. The different grains didn't give a nice look.

2nd. pic. is veneer and piece dry from the contact cement, and pull-out sticks in place.

3rd. shows the finished product. The side and front of the outside piece in now BEAUTIFUL oak veneer, and gives a very nice look , IMO.

I used my Harbor Freight trim router, it worked great. I tested the router bit height on a glued up piece, so as to get a clean cut, that is very important, IMO.

I am now ready to sand and prepare for the pre--cat-Lacquer commercial matte top coat. I use M L Campbell products. I will pick that up tomorrow, it has a 90-day shelf life.

Dangerous stuff, so wear throw away suit, good mask, and eye goggles. I piece spray, so I don't get lots of stuff floating around the room.


Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have finished the construction stage, and the sanding/detail work.

I am pleased with the proportions, and the overall design and build quality. All of my builds are without PLANS, DRAWINGS, and CERTAINLY not a kit. I am normally inspired by the surroundings where a piece will be placed, pictures, and general input from my customers. I do though normally put together a cardboard mockup for the customer to view. 

I build one of a kind pieces, my customers don't want someone else saying, "I HAVE ONE OF THOSE". It works for me, my reputation is very important to me, and aids me in getting more commissioned builds. 

Tomorrow I will pick up the Pre-cat Lacquer matte finish clear coat. That product is available here in Indy. I have to order on line, and it will be ready for pickup at the warehouse within an hour.

I will photo spray the process. I will spray each piece separate, then sand, and spray again. 

This has been a fun build, I look forward to delivering it to the church. I have kept them posted with build pictures, and they really liked such. I had given the a 60-day build time frame, and I should beat that by 3+ weeks.

Pic' # 1 shows where slides will be placed, customer wants to be able to move the Pulpit easy on carpet, and be off the floor by 1/2".

#2 is the slides, and sprayed with several coats of clear. I made the slides. 

3. shows them glued in place, didn't want any screws to catch on carpet. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I picked up the M L CAMPBELL PRE-CAT LACQUER today. $56.20 per gallon including tax.

To purchase you have to call an 800 number, pay for it on line, and then it is ready for pickup within an hour locally. 

I have used this product for at least 10 years, and have lots of faith in it. 120 day shelf life. I keep it in a cool place. 

Tonight I set up for spraying each piece separate. 

Weather permitting, first coat tomorrow. It is a SATIN finish, I will sand with 320 after 1st coat, then spray again. Two coats is all that is needed, you DON'T want to build over two coats.

Pictures will come when I start the spraying.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I took 20 minutes this morning to assemble the Pulpit one more time, check for alignment, and look for areas that might need more sanding, etc.

I marked those with masking tape. 

The weather is saying rain, don't like to spray when moisture content is high, so will watch for a clear day. When it gets the natural top coat it will have a nice blonde/natural look. 

So while I wait for the weather, I will move over to the BOOM BOX, and glue up some foam pieces for the dash. Pictures to come soon.

Also today at 3:45 at a local High School the shop teacher is going to LASER engrave our son-in-laws football with his actual sig. I will take photo's and post. His name is STAN EISENHOOTH, played for both Seattle, and Colts in late 80's, and early 90's. #67

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, took the football to the High School, two teachers, and a student set it all up for the LASER sig, and after an hour+ of testing, measuring, discussing they PUSHED the print button. 

I am very pleased. I decided to make it very simple, sig only.

Stan has beautiful penmanship. It reads, STAN EISENHOOTH.

Laser machine cost the school $12,000.00 plus a couple programs of $100.00 each. 

2nd. pic, the white dots are the laser pulses cutting, and smoking.

The teachers enjoyed the process, and had deep concerns as they didn't want to destroy the piece, but I gave them the GO, and it worked great. They took lots of pic's, and will discuss in their classes Monday. This is the first Laser work of something NOT flat. 

I donated money to the school.

Dale in Indy


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

smithbrother said:


> Ok, took the football to the High School, two teachers, and a student set it all up for the LASER sig, and after an hour+ of testing, measuring, discussing they PUSHED the print button.
> 
> I am very pleased. I decided to make it very simple, sig only.
> 
> ...




Okay, this is pretty damn awesome!!!! Nicely done.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Minister want to stop over today and look B4 the finish was sprayed on, so assembled, and moved inside.

Rain is coming today, so not spraying with moisture high.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have been judged and selected to be be in the ROCKLER WOODWORKER MAG contest starting this coming Friday.

So have been tweaking my two entries. The GOOGLE locomotive, and the FOOTBALL popping out of a log. 

Normally the locomotive just sat on the rails of the trestle, but was concerned that someone might try to roll the locomotive, and it fall off the rails. So I went up into the undercarriage and threaded in some threaded rods so as to anchor to the trestle. Works well, I feel safer now.

The rods stick down between the track and the ties, then a fender washer and nut hold such tight against the ties. SORRY FOR POUR PIC. QUALITY....

Tonight I took the football copper lacing off, and am wet sanding in more dark Watco oil. I needed to get a more consistent shine.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Hello,

Getting ready for the contest I sanded the football again, worked my way up to 800 grit.

Then roughed out this holding tray for the Watco treatment. Scraps of cut off strips, and new trash bag did the trick. I wanted to contain the oil, so the outside wood strips form a dam so to speak.

I wet sanded with 800, waited 30 minutes, wiped clean, and did it all over again. It is soaking now, so in a few minutes I will wipe clean and see how it looks. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here is a picture of the Rockler contest entries last year.

Last year was the 1st. year for the contest, they received more entries this year, the contest starts this Friday. 

All entries had to be approved before accepted. 


Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm spraying the first coats of Pre-Cat Lacquer tonight.

I have a HVLP gun, and it's going well.

This stuff dries in 15 minutes, and can be sanded in a couple hours. I like to piece spray.

I will allow to dry overnight, then hit lightly with 220, and spray again. 

I really like the M L Campbell MagnaMax product. It goes on nice and wet, seldom does it run, so what else could one ask for. I sanded with the grain, 80 grit, then finished with 100. NO sand marks show, this product fills Oak very well. IMO.

Now back to the shop and spray the two uprights and Mic holder.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

SEVERAL THINGS:

The Pulpit if finished, I will assemble this weekend, and post final pictures. It will be installed and dedicated Sunday June 21st. My bride and I have been invited.

I belong to the CENTRAL INDIANA WOODWORKERS/TURNERS club.

It is a big club, normally at the monthly meetings approx. 100 attend. Last night was one meeting, and a fellow came with three wood toys that had been made by a fellow years ago. He passed, and the family wanted the woodworkers club to have them. Each had been stored in a big box, and such had broken some parts off of each. I offered to restore all, and return to the club to be auctioned off to raise money to buy supplies for our TOYS FOR KIDS PROGRAM. Last year the members made over 12,000 toys.

Here is a picture of the gas tanker truck. It is 46" long, and actually much neater/cooler than the pictures show. It is a very cool piece, FOR SURE. I'm not easily impressed, and this piece is nice. The top hatches open up, and the tank is hollow. The steering works. It has a real ladder that I will repair. The patina is very nice, so won't disturb. NOTICE the tank is several pieces, and such really adds to the look. Hard to see, but next pictures I post will be better quality.

When I finish installing some missing parts I will post pictures. All missing parts were in the box. I will NOT be making any changes, just repairing, and cleaning. 

Today I take my Google Locomotive, and Football popping out of a log to Rockler's for the ADVENTURES IN WOOD contest. I will get pictures of other entries. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Better pictures.

Dale


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## honesttjohn (Jan 27, 2015)

Neat. Let us know when the auction, or sale, is and how much you're expecting to raise with each piece. And if outsiders are welcome to bid.

HJ


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

The auction for the truck posted in post # 149 will be at the earliest, at the next meeting a month from now. I will ask about outside bidders, and post. 

I delivered my two entries in the Rockler contest today. I was the last to do such, 29 entries. 

I will post pictures with several posts, for some reason my system will only take 3 at a time.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More contest photo's.

The chair was very nicely done, (wood wise), but the print material on the cushion was NOT aligned with the back. You can see it on the top of the back too. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

This is all of the entries.

The contest is for 2-weeks. $750.00 Rockler gift card is possible top prize. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Now YOU ALL CAN CHEER,,,,,,, last pictures of the Pulpit, well, a couple more within the next post.

Now on to the BUICK BOOM BOX.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Bride of 55 years, she is arty, and a good sounding board/helper.

I will soon be 80, and STILL having FUN!

Sharon Fern & Dale in Indy


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

The pulpit looks wonderful Dale.
Nice job.:thumbsup:


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

Looks fantastic!


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

That pulpit is amazing. Great work.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looks great!


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

Lookin good Dale!






And the wood stuff isn't bad either


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Rockler & Woodworkers mag had a party tonight for all artist entered in the contest. 30 entries, NO POOR EXAMPLES, for sure. 

An editor from the mag was there, and interviewed each artist. 

Food and drinks, great time visiting with other WoodFunning people. 

Three categories, TURNINGS/MISC, BOXES, & FURNITURE.

Here are some more pictures of the entries. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More,

Dale


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

and More,,,,,

Dale


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

The last,

Dale


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, working on the BOOM BOX today.

Here is the basic contour, it will have a somewhat flat panel above the start of the convex curves, I will come up with something to make such feel at home. 

I took two contour gauges and duplicated the dash curves off of my 46 Buick, so know I am CLOSE.

I was considering using hard foam and glass and bondo, but now thinking 3/8" bending plywood planing it down to 1/4"- to make the curves. 

It will have the speedo and clock faces with trim rings, guts removed to save weight. 

I'm thinking making the base/spliter out of aluminum. Maybe ENGINE TURNED MATERIAL.

The last picture, if you look close you can see the 1/8" 3M chrome trim I will use to hide the joint between the grill and the main body.

I LOVE coming up with building tricks to do something I haven't done B4. DON'T YOU???????

Dale in Indy


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## honesttjohn (Jan 27, 2015)

Dale,

I was looking at your pulpit and thought with a few changes that could be a neat table or stand to fill a corner. Can you give me a quick tutorial on measurements and how you put it all together? I know there aren't any plans except what you engineered in your head.

HJ

Likes to learn from his elders - even if it's only a year or two - lol


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

The base is 24" wide, 20" deep. The top at the lowest point is 43" off the floor. 

Needless to say, look back and see construction. 

Solid oak costs came out at a tad less than $400.00.

You could make with plywood, and veneer for probably $200.00

Dale in Indy


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## honesttjohn (Jan 27, 2015)

Only oak or something with stand-out grain for that style. IMO

HJ

Wheels are turning


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Working on the BOOMBOX.

1st. pic. shows hard foam forms.

2nd. shows 1/8" MDF strips being glued to forms, lots of yellow and super glue.

3rd. show 7 of the forms glued together, they will be shaped for the end dash caps.

I have the basic dash glued, but didn't take a picture of it, will 
tomorrow. 

I will fiber glass the rough shape, then tear out the foam. 

Lots to do yet, pictures will come along soon. It looks confusing now, but I will get it figured out, hehe. Trust me, 

I have other things going as well. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Post # 166 shows the dash config I am shooting for. 

Dale in Indy


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Foam is messing stuff to work with. Looks like you've got it mastered. Looking great Dale.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Kenbo,

Yep, messy stuff, I wore mask while cutting on band saw. I have done a ton of glass work over the years, and enjoy seeing it all come to light. 

I have a lot of shaping to do, but THAT'S the fun part.

I love doing things when I DON'T know what I'm doing. 

Dale in Indy


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

I hear you on messy foam. I cut some outside and made a mess everywhere. Plugged the vacuum up to my jigsaw and it was like night and day, just a few little chunks and that was it. Couldn't imagine doing it inside on a bandsaw.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I don't fret about getting my hand dirty, I have always had the ability to stay clean when doing dirty jobs, AT LEAST THAT'S WHAT THE BRIDE OF 55 YEARS TELLS ME. 

I loved making mud castles as a kid, there weren't lots of cars on the streets/roads, so we often played in the curb during a rain storm, damming up the water, and having a blast. That was in the 40's. I know, I know, I know, I'm an old guy, but havin fun. 

Bride is going to the USED BOOK STORE, and I will play in my shop. She reads several books a week, me, NO, for me it's SHOP TIME.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Working on the BOOMBOX.

WARNING,,,,, it will look like a mess for a few pictures, but stay with me, it will look like a dash SOON. Once instruments are added, and other detail, trust me.

1st. pic. is the basic look I will duplicate.

2ne. MDF slats glued to foam forms, and solid foam end caps.

3rd. shows end shaping, and tool used to get basic shape. 

More pic's in a few minutes.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

More,

1st. the space above the main dash shape will have a large Buick script, FIREBALL EIGHT, with ball of fire streaking thru the sky, tail and all. Lower will have SPEEDOMETER, CLOCK, and RADIO CONTROLS, plus other detail. 

2nd. end caps with ugly coat of bondo so fiberglass will stick.

3rd. gives you a hint of the look from a 3/4 angle shot. 

The glues are drying, so will lay 1st. coat of fiberglass tomorrow.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

First layer of glass on and drying, will have two, then a skim coat of bondo.

Center section will be cut out to hold the control panel, it will be finished wood, haven't selected the wood yet, but it will duplicate the picture of the section.

It will dip down at the bottom like the pic, and the piece will have short legs to hold a few inches off the floor/ground.

The balance of the boombox will be in automotive finishes. 

Dale in Indy 

"NOT A KIT, NO PLANS, NO INSTRUCTIONS, NO DRAWINGS, JUST WINGING IT MY WAY"


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I am working on the BOOMBOX this afternoon doing the right side first, then if I don't like, well, I haven't wasted time on the left. 

I'm laying a thin skim coat of bondo, the key is to remove all that isn't needed to fill imperfections, so in the end, you have very little bondo on the piece. When applied thin, it will move without cracking. I'm using blocks to sand and keep flat/straight, I know how to make things straight/flat so they aren't WAVING at you when you walk by the piece, hehe.

Pictures tonight,

Dale in Indy


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## Bob in St. Louis (Feb 11, 2015)

"Subscribed"
Awesome thread Dale, you're providing plenty of inspiration for those of us less talented, that's for sure.

Although, you're making me feel weak. I'm only building my Pastor a cupholder! :laughing:


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Pictures coming tonight. I am nearly finished shaping the right side, I think it is very close to what I envishioned. 

Lots of sanding, and I really DON'T mind sanding, maybe I'm crazy, but I often enjoy BUSY work. Could be that after working out difficult details, sanding takes the pressure off, MAYBE....

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, I have the right side very near the shape I want. Still some fill work, but will do that with HD FILL PRIMER.

This side will hold the clock, approx. 8" in from the right end, and split the pointed peak.

Tomorrow I will duplicate on the left side. The right side required at least 8 hours of sanding/shaping. The right side will have below the convex a GLOVE box door.

Dale in Indy

Just 3 more days of the wood/art contest at Rockler, so Friday we will know the winners.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Sorry pic's didn't load, so here they are, remember the center approx. 12" will be cut out in favor of the finished wood control panel.

Post # 178 shows the dash center panel.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Now that the right side is what I want, I found the left is a ton different. So I cut off the unneeded, and I'm going to build/shape like the right.

I coat the foam with yellow glue so as to trick it into thinking fiber glass resins won't dissolve such. 

I will need to wait until this evening B4 I can begin the shaping of the foam, and to apply the glass.

1st. pic. is the pattern I traced off the right good side.

2nd. is cutting of unneeded material.

3rd. is gluing on new foam that will be shaped and glassed.

I'm not afraid of failure, so I move on.

I like the recent quote I read, " GOOD or BAD, AFTER 48 HOURS MOVE ON". 

Dale in Indy 

P.S. As you can tell, NOT A KIT, NO PLANS, NO INSTRUCTIONS, NO YOUTUBE, just winging it. I enjoy doing things, when I don't know what I'm doing.


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## honesttjohn (Jan 27, 2015)

Dale,

Out of curiosity, how much time do you figure you had in cutting and sanding the pulpit? I think it's a cool design.

I've got a screwball idea in the back of my head and am trying to justify the time, if warranted.

Good luck at the show - - you have to stay there all this time or do they just notify you?

HJ

Always thinking - but not always clearly


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

It's. Hard to say hours involved, I had to design, make a cardboard mockup, , one out of construction lumber B4 I even started.

Knowing what I know now, I could cut one out in a day or two, but that's very misleading because I have arc forms, etc.

You have a better idea of your experience than anyone.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I was informed via E-mail today that my walnut 40" GOOGLE LOCOMOTIVE won the Rockler Woodworkers store ADVENTURES IN WOOD CONTEST. I won 1st. in the Turning class, and was voted Best Of Show.

I won $500.00, and I believe it will be in an upcoming Woodworkers Journal magazine. I should know more tomorrow when I pick up the award. I have to leave the Locomotive on display for another week.

Their were 31 artist entries, and some entered more than one item, I entered two. 

So, today was a great day,

Dale in Indy


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

smithbrother said:


> I was informed via E-mail today that my walnut 40" GOOGLE LOCOMOTIVE won the Rockler Woodworkers store ADVENTURES IN WOOD CONTEST. I won 1st. in the Turning class, and was voted Best Of Show.
> 
> I won $500.00, and I believe it will be in an upcoming Woodworkers Journal magazine. I should know more tomorrow when I pick up the award. I have to leave the Locomotive on display for another week.
> 
> ...




CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!!! Definitely well deserved my friend.
:yes:


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## Bob in St. Louis (Feb 11, 2015)

Oh wow, that's cool!
Definitely something to be proud of. Congratulations Dale!


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

Congrats on winning.


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## Quo Fan (Feb 15, 2015)

Congrats on the win!


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Congrats Dale! Way to go!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm working on several projects today.

I have a small business, SPOUSES WORKING ON HOUSES, do arty things for high end homes, and this walnut piece needed some TLC. 

A good customer got this from her father, he is in a home now, but was a home designer for years. These two end tables are late 60's pieces, completely finished, INSIDE AND BACK. The drawers match the flow of the wood in the doors. 

I recommended cleaning with 0000 steel wool, and using dark scratch cover. It worked very well, did add a bit of a shine, but saved the color, and patina.

One special bracket for the drawer pull was missing, so make a new one out of aluminum. The piece with the drill bit sticking in same. Looking close, you can see a small tab sticking out of the piece, and one on the handle, it is a stop to prevent handle from touching the drawer front. You can see the chunk of aluminum laying on the bench with other pieces.

I will have approx. 4- hours in the project, $100.00. She delivered, and will pick up. 

Dale in Indy


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## honesttjohn (Jan 27, 2015)

Congrats on the win. Anything on the football?

HJ


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Also working on the BOOMBOX, cutting the right side clock hole, and shaping more on left side.

After the BOOMBOX, here is my next large scale model. It's a 1929 Miller race car, often they ran on WOODEN/BOARD tracks, SEE PIC.

I will call mine the, "SPLINTER SPECIAL".

Mine will be total walnut, except grill, and wheels. Car will be approx. 28" - 30" long. Tires will be 7-1/2" tall, and SKINNY at 1-1/4" wide. I'm going to try turning Ebony for tires, TRY.....

Dale in Indy 

"GOOD or BAD, AFTER 48 HOURS, MOVE ON"


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

The football was very well received, but in the same contest group as the Locomotive, the TURNING GROUP. I heard that many folks saw that both were in the same group, so gave their vote to the Locomotive.

I won't ever put two in same group again, LESSON LEARNED, lol 

I can tell you tooooooo, that no family members voted, I asked that it be fair and square. At nearly 80, NO GAMES PLAYED BY ME, period.

Thanks for asking,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Lots of detail to do, but got the first hole in progress.

I have a Harbor Freight $9.99 air mini hack saw, it worked very well, easy to control. I have had lots of good results with H F stuff, only one return, and it was a NO HASSLE experience. We have 3 stores here in Indy, one is 10 minutes from our place, and across the street from Rockler.

This clock is the original from my Buick 1946 car. I moved it up a bit, will be seen better when box is on the ground/floor, IMO.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

This is my LAST post.

I have better things to do than keep trying to rid the COKE ads that show up when I log on, and try to open a section. I hit the X, and it pops up again, and won't allow the section to open until I hit it the third time. NOT FOR ME. 

I have noticed other faithful folks are no longer posting, and I'm certain it's because of all the pop up ads. 

I don't need this hassle, I'm history,

Dale in Indy


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## Bob in St. Louis (Feb 11, 2015)

It's not the site Dale. It's your PC.


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

I sent you a PM before on how not to have to deal with the ads. It's so simple, you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner.


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## honesttjohn (Jan 27, 2015)

Send it to me too, please.

HJ


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## 123pugsy (Dec 6, 2014)

honesttjohn said:


> Send it to me too, please.
> 
> HJ



Install AdBlock Plus (ABP) and say goodbye to the ads. No more YouTube commercials or countdowns as well.
Takes about a minute to install and is safe.


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