# Cutting thin strips consistently



## KnotsAboutWood (Mar 3, 2010)

This is my first post, so hopefully I'll explain myself well enough.

I'm attempting to build a jig that will allow me to cut strips exactly the width of my saw blade consistently. The reason for this is I'm cutting dados (width of the blade) and then filling them with strips of another wood. If the strips are exact it doesn't work.

This is what I'm thinking of doing, but I'm hoping that someone can either confirm it before I spend the time in the shop, or give me tried and true jig for doing it.

As my planer will not go down to 3/32", I'm thinking I'll have to work around that.

So, I'm thinking of building a jig that consists of a 4" X 8" X 47/64" board. I'll then dado a 1" wide strip that's 11/64" deep, making sure to not go all of the way to the end. I'll then chisel a square edge at the end of the dado. 

My thought process is if I then cut my wood at 1/8" or so, place it in the dado slot, set my planer to the 3/4" preset, and run it through, I should end up with 3/32" strips. 

Has anyone tried this, or am I hoping to much that the rollers will pull the entire jig through? Do I need to make sure that there's a square edge on the front of the jig also to eliminate that issue?

Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Just use a smooth cut blade on the table saw*

By trial and error adjust the fence over a zero clearance throat plate
(so they don't slip down inside) and rip them to the length you need. I assume they are not very wide...3/32"? to insert in the dados as a decorative touch? It's like making tooth picks I guess! After you have all your strips, stack them and rip them again to the right width. Double sided tape them together or hot glue them so they will saw in a group. I think you are making this too difficult and may not have success in planing such a thin piece. JMO 
:thumbsup: bill
Check this out: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f30/cutting-thin-strips-table-saw-11720/


----------



## KnotsAboutWood (Mar 3, 2010)

Woodnthings,

Thanks for the response, but I think we're looking at two different issues. My problem is that I need to be able to create a strip of wood that's 3/4" wide, undetermined length (5"-10"), but exactly 3/32" thick. I want to be able to make 100 of these strips out of 20 different types of wood in a few hours. And I'll need to do this every week.

You can probably understand why I'm looking to eliminate any of the "trial and error".

Thanks


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I think Woodnthings is right on. :thumbsup:

I can't see the trial and error taking that long.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I got that part*

You can do it on the TS. It's just the initial set up that you'll need to play with if your strips are cut between the blade and the fence. THe 3/4" wide part is good! 3/32" square wuuld be a PITA!
Here's another jig will allow you to cut strips that fall to the left side of the blade: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056&filter=thin%20strip%20jig :thumbsup: bill
I have one of these.
OMT. Once you get your fence properly adjusted and you have the desired thickness strip, slip it between the blade and fence and just feel the kind of fit it has as a reference. How tight or loose? This may allow you to use it as a reference to set the fence again pretty darn close off the bat.


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Here's another jig will allow you to cut strips that fall to the left side of the blade:
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056&filter=thin%20strip%20jig


One of the better table saw accessories to come along. I have one also and it works GREAT!


----------



## KnotsAboutWood (Mar 3, 2010)

Woodnthings,

After watching that video, I think I'm going to build something close to that. Since I know exactly the size that I'll want every time, I'll eliminate the checking of the size. I can just build a jig that slides in the miter slot that has a square side to the fence that exactly 3/32 away from the left side of the blade. Slide the fence and wood up against it and as long it's in front of the blade I can just leave it there. Cut the board and repeat.

The main issue that I can see here is I'll need to make sure that both sides of the board are planed to start, or I'll need to make a clean up cut to begin with to make sure that the first strip is correct.

Thanks for your help


----------



## JEC559 (Jul 1, 2009)

When I need to cut thin strips I take a straight piece and clamp it down tight on the left side of the blade. I insert the piece I am cutting and then move the fence over tight to the board so the board I will be cutting is sandwiched between the clamped piece on the left side of the blade and the fence on the right side of the blade. Cut the first pass and then adjust the fence over to the new thickness of the board. I have done this many times with great results.


----------



## <*(((>< (Feb 24, 2010)

Use your thickness planer. A little two sided tape with the piece being planed attached to a 1x4 or the like to raise it up to the cutterhead.

But you could make a jig to do it on the tablesaw, and post pictures and diagrams for the rest of us.


----------



## Fbranco (Jan 30, 2009)

You could build a late Niki jig and do it that way:
http://woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ripping_thin_strips_on_a_tablesaw


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

JEC559 said:


> When I need to cut thin strips I take a straight piece and clamp it down tight on the left side of the blade.


I would hope that you're not making a fence to the left side of the blade with the clamped board!


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

JEC559.....Trapping your board between 2 fences doesn't seem very safe to me. 

You could build a late Niki jig and do it that way:

That is a pretty cool jig but seems like an awfull amount of work just to cut thin strips.

JMO.

Scott


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I don't think so*



rrich said:


> I would hope that you're not making a fence to the left side of the blade with the clamped board!


I think it's just a stop like in the video from Charles Neil., It should not extend beyond the front teeth of the blade in any case! :blink: bill


----------



## JEC559 (Jul 1, 2009)

It's similar to how the rockler jig is set up only a little wider versus the pointed tip. It just gives me a stop to push the board up to when adjusting my fence. I tried setting the fence that close to the blade but I never had much success doing it that way.


----------



## jack the ripper (Mar 9, 2010)

*ripping thin strips*

Ripping thin strips of wood is really easy with the right tool. I have ripped thousands of them the same width as the saw blade. We use them to make bent laminated products. 

First you need to have a zero clearance throat plate to support the strip. 
We cut the strips between the blade and the fence. That way after a couple of test strips you can leave the fence locked in the right spot.
Then you set up a sandpaper feeder wheel and anti-kickback spring in front of the blade to pull the wood to the fence. A hold down anti-kickback spring is necessary after the blade to keep the thin strip from coming up and back at you. You need asupport table or stand after the saw on long boards.
Take two boards and push one board thru the saw with the next one. ( The board ends should be cut square to eliminate the dreaded push stick glitch.) There is a video on youtube showing how this setup works. 




If you are looking for an easy way to laminate those thin strips together without clamps, send an email. I will soon be posting a video on how to make a bent laminated lamp.

Jerry Jaksha


----------



## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

This is the simplist one I can think of for repeated use


----------



## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

I made a pretty effective jig on my oscillating spindle sander by clamping a block next to the spindle making a gap just big enough for the strip. I push the strip in against the spin direction and catch it as it come out and pull the rest of the way. It's good for slimming down overthick strips and smoothing rough cuts.


----------



## Joe Shop (Sep 10, 2009)

I have the magnetic holders that Jerry has shown above. It doesn't get any easier than using them IMHO. I got them at a show in York a few years ago. They work great and will also hold a piece, partially cut, in place while you can walk around to the output side of the saw to retrieve it. Works like a charm. Good device.

Joe


----------

