# would this work?



## Christopher G. (Feb 19, 2017)

I'm trying to decide on how to attach the table skirt (1x6 red oak) to the legs (2.5" x 2.5") of a desk I want to build. I don't have the skill or tools to use mortise and tenon, but I don't want to use pocket screws, either, so I thought I'd try using a router to two grooves the full 5.5" x 3/4" into the leg 3/4" on two sides and glue the skirts into them on each leg. Would this be strong enough, or no? (the post in the image is poplar, but is just being used for practice, and the 3/4" piece is just scrap I had lying around) the finished size of the desk will be 66"w x 28"d x an undecided yet height. i hope this made sense, i'm very much a beginner at this.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Excellent method!*

That method would be terrific and I have used something similar myself. The only "improvement" you could make would be to use a more narrow groove and put a corresponding width shoulder on your apron. This will be just fine if that's all you want to do. Make certain the apron fully seats inside the groove, because if not it won't have full strength to resist racking. Use long clamps when gluing it up to assure full seating.

To make certain the legs will all be vertical, measure diagonally across and get the same dimension each way when it's upside down on a flat surface. Measure each side for uniformity as well. Without clamps, use a strap and twist it to increase the tension or a ratchet strap.

Post your build progress! :smile3:


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

One flaw will be that using solid wood the skirt boards will eventually work themselves loose from expanding and contracting during seasonal changes. I'd french dovetail the joint so the skirt boards had to slide in from the top and couldn't pull out sideways. If you can't do that then maybe pin the skirt board in using a dowel pin or two through the inside edge into the tenon. Offset the pins when doing the adjacent side.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It's a good method however I would mortise it a little deeper. What you have looks a bit shallow.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

I agree with Woodnthings, that will be a very good way to attach the skirt to the legs. 
If you make the dado a little deeper as Steve suggested, you will have enough room to "pin" the skirt to the legs if you wanted. You can use a blind pin from the back side or two small dowels from the front. 
With a good woodglue, this will last your lifetime and then some.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*He can't make it deeper ...*



Steve Neul said:


> It's a good method however I would mortise it a little deeper. What you have looks a bit shallow.





Toolman50 said:


> I agree with Woodnthings, that will be a very good way to attach the skirt to the legs.
> If you make the dado a little deeper as Steve suggested, you will have enough room to "pin" the skirt to the legs if you wanted. You can use a blind pin from the back side or two small dowels from the front.
> With a good woodglue, this will last your lifetime and then some.


In this photo, if the dado was deeper and the other side at 90 degrees also deeper, they would intersect and leave no material supporting the inner edge at the corner:




You can brace it from the inside using this:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/leg-brace-alternative-method-challenge-33352/

Or this:


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

or

http://www.rockler.com/surface-mount-corner-brackets-for-table-aprons


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Hello Christopher,

Since you asked for guidance and feedback...Mine would be to learn to design such work using traditional joinery (and if possible at all the tools that go with them.)

This is not...a well designed and laid out joint...from a traditional perspective.

Nevertheless, from a modern perspective and tooling approach...if you follow both Woodnthings, and plasma800's guidance for hardware based joinery, your design would be just fine..

As a timber framer myself...and traditional woodworker...I look at this from a perspective of "Do you want a traditional Timber Frame" or do you want a modern "post and beam" structure with hardware based joinery...

It's not a "right and wrong" thing (per se) but a choice of approaches. 

The Hardware method requires spending money and purchasing the materials needed, but perhaps a more approachable and utilitarian match to your current needs perhaps?

Regards,

j


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## Christopher G. (Feb 19, 2017)

Okay, I (finally) got the router, table, and dovetail bit to try the French dovetail that 4DThinker suggested, and have tried It out. I now have a new question about that: Should the Dovetail on the skirt piece fit snugly within the leg (as in, i have to tap it with a hammer to get it to start), or should it be snug, but still able to only use my hands, or should it be just the slightest bit loose to allow space for expansion/contraction?

I tried my hand at chiseling a mortise, and will continue to do so, but decided to try this way first.


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## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

Christopher Gott said:


> I'm trying to decide on how to attach the table skirt (1x6 red oak) to the legs (2.5" x 2.5") of a desk I want to build. I don't have the skill or tools to use mortise and tenon, but I don't want to use pocket screws, either, so I thought I'd try using a router to two grooves the full 5.5" x 3/4" into the leg 3/4" on two sides and glue the skirts into them on each leg. Would this be strong enough, or no? (the post in the image is poplar, but is just being used for practice, and the 3/4" piece is just scrap I had lying around) the finished size of the desk will be 66"w x 28"d x an undecided yet height. i hope this made sense, i'm very much a beginner at this.


A better idea would be to use a dovetail bit, instead of the straight mortising bit you have used. Then the same depth will give a stronger joint. The same bit can be used for making the tenons for the aprons.

(I did not see the earlier post by 4Dthinker. He has the same idea.)


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Christopher Gott said:


> Okay, I (finally) got the router, table, and dovetail bit to try the French dovetail that 4DThinker suggested, and have tried It out. I now have a new question about that: Should the Dovetail on the skirt piece fit snugly within the leg (as in, i have to tap it with a hammer to get it to start), or should it be snug, but still able to only use my hands, or should it be just the slightest bit loose to allow space for expansion/contraction?
> 
> I tried my hand at chiseling a mortise, and will continue to do so, but decided to try this way first.


I would make the fit so you could slide the apron boards into the legs without using a mallet, but still close enough to not seem loose. When you finally assemble the table put a little glue in the bottom inch or two of the dovetail slots.

4D


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

If you had dovetailed the joint it would be fine. The depth is shallow and will require a corner metal bracket. I won't use a wood corner unless it is locked in....


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