# Pecan Wood Slab Table



## Samiam (Feb 8, 2011)

I have undertaken a project I have never attempted, buildinga table from slab wood. The wood appears to be Pecan, one slab 5" thick and the other is 6" thick. I have dowled and glued slabs together and am currently sanding surface to flat. Questions is how to fill the cracks, treatment for sides of table and what should final top coat be? Does any Epoxy work to fill cracks, I have 3 gallons from a boat project?

Suggestions are greatly appreciated


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

It was allowed to stay in the sun. Any amount of time is too long but that was out waaaaay too long. Couple years at least I guess. Although Pecan can look like that with only 6 months of sunlight. You need to get a moisture content reading on it if you want to try and use it. If you want to try and finish it you don't want to apply it at anything less than EMC (equilibrium moisture content) which just means it's lost all the moisture it's going to unless you kiln dry it - which at this point you don't want to go all the trouble for with that slab. 

I'm not saying you couldn't make that slab look interesting but with all the cracks it'll take a lot of time and effort and still might not be worth it in the end depending on how you intend to place it in service. 

There's plenty of other things to discuss but how about a little at a time with a slab like that - how intent are you on using this one? And again what is the MC% and how (where) will you place it in service if you get that far? 

Welcome. 



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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I would use something to stabilize the cracks otherwise whatever you use to fill them will likely separate as the wood moves with changes in humidity. Use a butterfly patch or recess an iron strap across the crack. Use more than one per crack and do it on both sides.

I use an epoxy that would be great for filling the cracks as long as you do it a little at a time and make sure and get the air bubbles out of it. It dries crystal clear and would allow you to look down into the crack.

As for the edges a wire wheel on a grinder to clean them up then an orbital sander to finish it out to match the top surface. The epoxy is also great for covering the edges and top for a final coat. Very durable and looks like a sheet of glass was melted onto the table.


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## tmm313psu (Jun 24, 2010)

what kind of epoxy is it that you use?


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

tmm313psu said:


> what kind of epoxy is it that you use?


 
Aristocrat is the brand name of the stuff I use. Famowood makes one that is called Glaze Coat which is the same stuff.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

The epoxy can be thickened with sawdust until it's approximately the thickness of peanut butter and it will fill cracks just fine. It's an expensive option for filling cracks, and the suggestion of stabilizing with some butterflies first is a good one, but it will work. Personally I'd leave them as cracks and not fill them, but it definitely makes the table harder to use as a writing surface or something like that. Have you decided on a finish? You'll have to be sure the epoxy is fully cured before finishing the table or else you're likely to get some serious "goo" (that's a technical term) from the interaction.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Before you decide to use a 2 part epoxy you should look at some in person first. I used to like the look and have poured my share of it, but starting several years ago it no longer looked attractive to me, because it does look like a thick piece of plastic bonded to the wood. But there is hope! Charles Neil has a method to get all the benefits of epoxy without the cheap plastic-y look. I haven't tried it yet but knowing Neil I'm sure it works as advertised. 

Basically it entails sanding the dried epoxy with 180, spraying it with a coat of 1lb shellac, scuffing that with 320, then applying a satin topcoat. This gives it the depth without it looking like a slab of plexiglass having been glued down. Here's a picture of a walnut slab he did using the method.










This link will take you to his blog entry that explains it in detail. If you decide to use epoxy I would strongly urge you to look at it both ways because many people who like it at first end up wanting to change it. I now have a method to easily do that for them. 









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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

TT is right about the plastic look. I've not had anyone want a satin sheen yet but I did find another method to get that look that might be a little easier than what he showed in the post above. I have not tried it yet but when summer gets here I will do a test piece to see how it works. It will be difficult to do on my live edge surfaces but I'll cross that road when I come to it. 

Here is the link to a product like what I use and the application methods and how to get a satin sheen.
http://www.eti-usa.com/indust/ex88_instructions.html


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Dave that method does sound quicker and easier. I'm anxious to see your results. It's possible I may get to try it sooner than this summer as I have two slabs in the shop that I need to rout flat and finish. I was going to use an oil finish but maybe I'll do a test of both methods on the bottom of one of them. If I do, I'll post the results. 




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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Not to belittle any other advice you get on here but if you're looking for a different look than the "plastic" aesthetic, and you want to use epoxy check out some of the kayak builders forums on how to get the finish you want. I've seen satin, high gloss, and nearly flat finishes and all of them are over a 2 part epoxy. There's lots of ways to skin that cat.


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## Charles Neil (Oct 21, 2007)

here is another way to deal with it, the stuff rub's out well, there are 2 kinds, the epoxy kind, and there is the polyester type ( enviorlite) , both do well, the polyester is cheaper (lowes , craft stores sell it) , for rubbing out look for the "abralon pads by Mirka, they do very well, 4000 grit for gloss, 3000 for semi gloss 2000 for satin, and 1000 for flat ..sand the surfce flat and clean working up thru finer grits, meaning, if rough, start with some 400 or 600 , work up to about 800 then use the abralon,,, some soapy water helps prevent loading up and does well 

vid


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