# My troubles with finger joint sled



## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I wants to get good at finger joints...strong and decorative enough.

So I made a little sled for the table saw. The joint template is a piece of 3/8" plywood with a finger of hardwood sticking out of it.

















My idea had been to create a template for each standard size of finger joints (the one shown is for 3/8" joints). And then use the knobs and screws to just throw on whichever size I needed.

So I put the first template on with clamps, and tweaked it back and forth and a LOT of fingers later, I really had it. The finger joints held together on their own, but didn't take a lot of effort to put together.

So, while clamped, I drilled a 1/4" hole and stick a dowel through, pegging the template to the sled. I figured that would be enough to mark its position, because I knew the 5/16" holes for the jig screws would allow too much wiggling. So once that was done, I removed the template from the sled, then put it back on (lining up the dowel) and tightening the knobs. It SHOULD have then easily and perfectly worked for making more 3/8" finger joints. Alas, that was not the case...the joints were way too tight. So much for ease of use and repeatability....

These finger joints all boil down to the distance from the inside of that finger on the template and the blade. Closer to the blade means looser fingers, farther means tighter. But we're talking just micro fractions of adjustments, and it's too easy to overcorrect from just slightly too loose to slightly too tight. I've thought about putting some kind of threaded attachment to the template so I can use a knob and screw threads to make the adjustment...that would be more controlled and allow me to dial in the perfect distance easier, but would still not give me the "throw in the template and it's ready to go" that I'm looking for.

Is it a lost cause trying to set it once and never have to again? Or is there a better way of doing this? I could align it once again and drill another hole for another dowel and see if it works this time..it was close last time.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

*the shopsmith box joint sled is pretty nice.*

I made this one a few years ago. Its from a Shopsmith Magazine.
It has a replaceable kerf plate and is adjustable from 1/8" thick to 1" thick fingers. It has served me well over the years.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

But each time you're setting it up, do you need to cut some fingers to test their tightness again? Or can you set it up and it's good to go right then? I've found my method so far isn't reliable enough when I start off, that I have to tweak the distance from blade to finger...and that tweaking is the very finnicky part.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

no, but I would think that any "adjustable" box joint jig would need a setup process... and even if you did have "preset" sizing, wouldnt you still need to check the joints before you actually cut the good stock?

I dont think you can avoid setup time and scrap cuts while working with any jig on the market either../..


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ya, I guess that's the reality. Probably if I set it up once on the sled and never changed it again, it'd be pretty good to go...but I want to use the sled for different sized fingers, so that means swapping out plates at some point.

I used the sled last night to cut 1/2" fingers, and it worked pretty well, ONCE it was setup. So I guess I'll be happy with that.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

beelzerob said:


> Ya, I guess that's the reality. Probably if I set it up once on the sled and never changed it again, it'd be pretty good to go...but I want to use the sled for different sized fingers, so that means swapping out plates at some point.
> 
> I used the sled last night to cut 1/2" fingers, and it worked pretty well, ONCE it was setup. So I guess I'll be happy with that.


Why don't you cut you some junk stuff just for cutting the fingers. You can get 2 test's out of each piece so not costing much. You should test before the real wood goes on the choping block . The best is to use a router for this. A table saw will work but not as good. Just a little movement will thro joint's off . good luck


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

It's taken me a while to accept the idea of "scrap" wood. Even though I have a pole barn full of lumber from local auctions, I still hate using some just to throw away...but I'm getting used to the idea.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> It's taken me a while to accept the idea of "scrap" wood. Even though I have a pole barn full of lumber from local auctions, I still hate using some just to throw away...but I'm getting used to the idea.


Me too. The words "sacrificial" and "scrap" always hurt me deep down. I hate that you have to "waste" wood to test your setups. But I'm learning that it's all part of the process. I just save nearly every cutoff piece of scrap and try not to cry when I have to use it as a drilling backer or cut testing piece.


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