# Paste wax over Deft lacquer?



## Stevedore (Dec 28, 2011)

I'm finishing a small oak table I made, and used satin Deft brushing lacquer on it. 3 coats on everything but the top, which has 4 coats. 

Is it OK to rub on some paste wax over Deft? If so, how long should I wait after the last coat of Deft?

Thanks!


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Why do you want to apply the wax? Wax adds no further protection. It also creates a continuing problem with keeping it clean and re-waxing.

The best maintenance is to vacuum the surface. If very dirty, dampen a cloth with a drop or two of mild dish-washing detergent and wipe the surface. Follow immediately with a dry, soft cloth.

If you want to proceed with the waxing, use a furniture paste wax like Johnson or Minwax. Do not use Briwax Original. Wait 3-4 weeks for the finish to be fully dry.


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## Stevedore (Dec 28, 2011)

HowardAcheson said:


> Why do you want to apply the wax? Wax adds no further protection. It also creates a continuing problem with keeping it clean and re-waxing.


 In the past, I've always put on an application of paste wax (usually Minwax) with a pad of very fine steel wool; just never did it on lacquer. It just seemed to give the surface a more uniform "look & feel". Never really thought about why I did it, or when/where I first heard of it. Maybe a high school shop teacher ~50 yrs ago? :laughing:

For now, I'll leave it as-is, especially since we're anxious to put it into service in the house.


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

One advantage to following Howard's advise is if it should accidentally get a few scratches over the years some fine sanding to feather the scratches and another coat or two of Deft should make it look new again.

I've read lacquer excels in dissolving into previous coats of finish. If it has been waxed that would present another problem when attempting to renew the finish.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I wouldn't put wax on newly finished furniture. After several years you can get benefits from using wax as it moisturizes the finish and makes it a little more elastic and will help to keep it from flaking. Until then I would just use an aerosol furniture polish. It contains silicones and can give you a little grief if you went to recoat the table or refinish it but that is easily overcome.


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## Stevedore (Dec 28, 2011)

Many thanks for the replies; I'm going to leave it waxless for now.

I brought it in from my (garage) shop, but we haven't decided on a permanent location yet. I'll post some pictures in the Project Showcase as soon as I take a few. I've been an on/off woodworker for most of my life, but I'm hoping to do more after I retire later this year. I'm pretty happy with this piece; the through-tenons in the legs were a first for me.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Stevedore said:


> Many thanks for the replies; I'm going to leave it waxless for now.


My suggestion would be to leave it waxless forever. Properly applied and finished lacquer is a maintenance free finish, needing nothing applied. IMO, I would not use a spray on furniture polish, or use any product containing silicone.









 







.


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> My suggestion would be to leave it waxless forever. Properly applied and finished lacquer is a maintenance free finish, needing nothing applied. IMO, I would not use a spray on furniture polish, or use any product containing silicone.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Definitely no silicone, but I use Johnson's on everything applied with synthetic steel wool to even out the final surface.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

I would stay away from supermarket "polishes". Some contain silicone with is a bitch to deal with in the event of needing to refinish. Second, even if the polish is silicone free, it is generally nothing more than mineral spirits and mineral oil with the possible addition of artificial citrus odorant. It never dries and will forever attract and hold dust. It looks good for a day or so after application but quickly becomes dirty and in need of a new application.


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## Mattcampbell (9 mo ago)

HowardAcheson said:


> Why do you want to apply the wax? Wax adds no further protection. It also creates a continuing problem with keeping it clean and re-waxing.
> 
> The best maintenance is to vacuum the surface. If very dirty, dampen a cloth with a drop or two of mild dish-washing detergent and wipe the surface. Follow immediately with a dry, soft cloth.
> 
> If you want to proceed with the waxing, use a furniture paste wax like Johnson or Minwax. Do not use Briwax Original. Wait 3-4 weeks for the finish to be fully dry.



Hi, What is the reason you say 'Do not use Briwax Original'. I have done just that, and am having issues getting a uniformed finished. Heaps of streak marks etc, might be the way I am applying the wax or too much pressure with the steel wool???

Unsure how to solve the issue now, am thinking of removing the wax completely and applying another coat of Lacquer. 

Any tips would be appreciated

Regards,


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Mattcampbell said:


> Hi, What is the reason you say 'Do not use Briwax Original'. I have done just that, and am having issues getting a uniformed finished. Heaps of streak marks etc, might be the way I am applying the wax or too much pressure with the steel wool???
> 
> Unsure how to solve the issue now, am thinking of removing the wax completely and applying another coat of Lacquer.
> 
> ...


Briwax is a finishing wax really designed to use on raw pine wood as a finish. It's not really suited to apply over a film finish. Also Briwax water spots easily.

It's a different issue using steel wool on a film finish. It does by nature create streaks and blotchy spots in the sheen. If you think you have rubbed the finish to hard with steel wood you probably have. When hand rubbing with 0000 steel wool you apply almost no pressure on the wool pad in order to get the sheen uniform. 

Working with lacquer if you have the means of spraying it would be the easiest fix to clean the wax off with a wax and grease remover and apply another coat. If you are brushing then the easiest fix would be to do more rubbing with the steel wool as lightly as possible. Hand rubbing unless you are going for a high gloss is just difficult. I like to spray the finish and call it done. You can get a sprayer from Harbor Freight that would spray wood finishes just fine for about 25 bucks.


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