# Curved staircase



## jyswope75 (May 7, 2008)

Hello all. I was just looking for tricks on building curved staircases. I have my own way of doing things but I am always looking for better was of doing things! For instance the staircase I'm working on now I have to 2-Pc. the skirt board ( one on top of the other) to maintain my 11 1/4 width. I would like to know of a better way! Thanks for your comments.


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

That dosen`t sound like a good idea. Are you doing this because you need to bend the skirt? They make bending ply.


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## jyswope75 (May 7, 2008)

With the twisting action of a curved staircase you can't use a straight piece of wood! It actually is a long bowed looking piece of wood that I cut out of a piece of skirtboard mat'l. And on a tight radius I'm left with only about 7" of mat'l. left. I should clarify that I'm building a curb wall and not open treads and risers! The only bending plywood I've seen that is smooth and paintable comes in 4x8 sheets. Which I could use, but I was concerned with the joint, where the 2 pcs. would meet, not transitioning smoothly.


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Is it paint or stain grade?


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

I`ve had to curf the back side of some skirts. And lamanate some others...depending on the radius... two 3/8s or 3 1/4" peices. You can buy strips for the handrail. If it`s paint grade...you can use bondo to blend the joint.


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## jyswope75 (May 7, 2008)

I've kerfed the back side before but I usually only do that on open treads and risers( cause it gets covered up). On a curb wall I cap the top of the two skirts and leave 1/2 inch reveal so I can't kerf to deep ( I mean I could and let the painters fix it but I don't like doing that).When you've laminated, do you find that the board will twist and bend with the wall fairly easily or is it a fight( which you plan on winning). I like the bondo idea but I would be concerned with cracking as the house settles or vibration from use! And I have the handrail done already. Thanks


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Triming out a stairway that has been framed by another...is like playing a game of chess backwards. You start at checkmate and progress untill it looks like you made the first move. Bending the skirt boards takes time! Once you figure the slope, you have the angle for the back curfs (that should be plumb) when mounted. I`ve had the best results by curfing all but 1/8th" of material (3/4" stock). The curfs are hidden by base-cap...(easyer to bend). Any joints should be splined. Bondo is only for little mistakes and blending on paint grade jobs. Once the treads are down...you can glue strips that make up the handrail right on the steps using parallel clamps and u-fourms. Now...depending on your Artistic License...you can design a system that complements your work methods (scrap the stair kits and make your own)! Work with the wood...don`t fight it! Rick


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## jyswope75 (May 7, 2008)

Thanks for the insight pianoman! I do have my own way of doing things I was just interested in how others might complete the same task.


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## Fyrzowt (Jul 3, 2008)

I have learned a lot from observing other folks work, both in person and on the web or other resources. 
The link below points to the photo gallery of a company that appears to do good work, and they show some curved stairs in progress. They have an extensive photo gallery layed out in different topics.

http://mfandt.com/photo/Default.asp?8


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## formula462 (Dec 9, 2006)

the best way i find is to use 1/4 birch or 1/4 mdf...i have had great success with both


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