# What did I get myself in to? And what do I need to get myself into it?



## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

I picked up a lathe and a new drill press today of Craigslist. The drill press I'm well familiar with, but I've never used and know nothing about the Craftsman 12x37 lathe I also got as part of the great deal. It appears to be in good shape for it's age (sometime in the mid 80s) I believe. 

I'm attaching pictures and will be spending a ton of time on youtube trying to learn the basics, but what (if anything) am I missing to get going? The guy I bought it from tossed in everything near it, and I believe gave me some shaper cutting heads as well, because I don't see how they'd be for the lathe.


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## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

You need a full face shield, some basic turning chisels, and a means to sharpen them (often). You need some basic techniques to be safe, and lots of firewood to practice on.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

yeah, I forgot to mention that I knew about the safety aspects of it, which I have already, and I was planning on spending a few hundred bucks on some starter chisels. Any recommendations on specific chisel sets are welcome and appreciated. Are there any chucks or hardware I need to go along with this though? Thanks!


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## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

The local opinion (which I share) is not to buy a chisel set, but individual chisels as the need comes up. I started on the large a year ago and bought a 1/2" spindle gouge, spindle roughing gouge, 3/4" skew, and a parting tool a my first 4 tools. Start off just making things round and basic curves for a while. I would probably stay with spindle work on that lathe and save bowl work until you're hooked and upgrade to a better lathe. With just spindle work you don't have to get into faceplates or chucks. That lathe probably has morse taper #1 head and tail stocks, if you upgrade you'll be getting a lathe with #2 tapers, so don't go nuts now buying fancy drive and revolving centers.


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## Biscobob (Jul 25, 2011)

A new drive spur, yours is missing the point and you're not gonna like that dead center in the tailstock, get a decent live center. That lathe is all MT#1 taper in both head and tailstock and 3/4 x 16 threads on the head, not what you will find in a better and newer lathe. I bought a set of HF turning tools for about $40 and like them, although I still use the original Craftsman set more often. Get started with minimal money spent because you'll probably want to save that for a better lathe. Welcome to the dark side. :laughing:


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## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

When I got started it became clear that a lot of wood turners are afraid of the skew chisel, so I decided early on to get past that - I practiced almost exclusively with the skew for about a month. Can't say I mastered it by any means, but I do like using it now. I highly recommend the DVD with Alan Lacer called "The Skew Chisel, The Dark Side and the Sweet Side."


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## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

And start saving your pennies now because you'll be tempted to spend at least $3000 on a new lathe, chisels, chuck, and sharpening equipment by the end of the year.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Thanks for the advice! So basically I'm hearing (reading) that I should sell this one and either buy a new one or be happy without a lathe. I'm assuming buying a new chuck (or two) is going to run around $100 or more, no?

I got it as part of a "woodworking lot" because I was after the drill press in it and thought "hey cool, maybe I could make some wine stoppers, pens, cigar ashtrays, etc." If I can't without spending a few hundy, I may just wait for another deal to pop up on CL that better suits my needs, maybe with chisels included. Hmmm.


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## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

I'm not saying that you should sell that lathe now. I'm suggesting that while you're beginning you invest in good chisels and sharpening equipment, and keep things that you buy specific to this lathe to a minimum. Anything that you buy that is Morse Taper #1 won't carry over when you upgrade. I owned a Craftsman tube lathe for a month or two and had great fun with it, built up some skills, and got enough experience to know that I wanted to get more into turning. I didn't get a chuck until I got into bowl turning with the lathe I have now (a Nova DVR XP), so I'd say hold off on a chuck for now. When I upgraded from the Craftsman lathe I sold it for about what I paid for it and hadn't invested much in accessories specific to the Craftsman lathe. If you want to make some pens you can buy a MT#1 pen mandrel for not much money and everything else pen related will carry over to a new lathe.


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## Lilty (Dec 20, 2006)

you could check out Penn State Ind. they have some decent tools that won't break the bank.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

Lilty said:


> you could check out Penn State Ind. they have some decent tools that won't break the bank.


+1 on that


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

I have the same lathe. Penn, as mentioned above, will sell you an inexpensive converter to 8X1 TPI. That will allow you many more choices for face plates and chucks. Maybe add a link belt for smoother drive and as noted above a new spur. 
Have fun with it I am with mine.


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## Big Mack (Jan 23, 2011)

I have the same late as the one you just bought.I bought it in 1974 or 75'.I turn on it every day in some way,bowels,pens pickets,what have you.I do not use the face plates,I use hot glue,for the bowles.I use only three tools.3/4" thunb nail,the Easy tool,finisher,and a 1/2" scraper.Now this is only my way,may not be the "right" way,but its what I feel good with;Mack


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## Biscobob (Jul 25, 2011)

I bought this http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CUG3418CCX.html for my tube lathe. Ordered it with a 3/4 x 16 insert, but they have other inserts available up to 1 x 8 so you can use it on practically any lathe made.

I am willing to bet there are a lot of people here turning on a tube lathe or that learned how to turn on a tube. Mine runs ever day and some weekends I can put 10 to 12 hours on it easily. Tubes are not the best thing out there, but a lot of turners are making some really nice stuff on a tube everyday.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Big Mack said:


> I have the same late as the one you just bought.I bought it in 1974 or 75'.


Oh yeah, I just went out and looked and it's a 76' model. I just assumed (d'oh) because all the materials and manuals I found online were from the 80s. 

Thanks for the advice, guys, I'll get a new drive spur for it and see where it takes me!


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

DST said:


> I have the same lathe. Penn, as mentioned above, will sell you an inexpensive converter to 8X1 TPI. That will allow you many more choices for face plates and chucks. Maybe add a link belt for smoother drive and as noted above a new spur.
> Have fun with it I am with mine.


Thanks, I actually have power twist link belt sitting around in a drawer because my new to me hybrid table saw couldn't use it. Now I've got a reason!


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

welcome to the vortex!
when I got my first lathe about 7 months ago, I picked up the HF red handles for 60 bucks. They work fine. They are HSS and they are cheap! 60 bucks gets you 8 basic chisles. It covers all you need to get started, then just buy the chisles you need as you go.

sharpening has a bit of a learning curve, and those tools are cheap enough to destroy and really not look back on. 

I have at least two turning books that the authors dont even buy tools, they use old files (sharpened to do what they want). that has to be cheaper steel then the HF stuff. so basically dont waste your money on an expensive set! save that money for a chuck system.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

I’m frugal so…jmho
I used a tube type that looked almost identical for 25+ years. Until you want to start larger bowls it should work fine. Not perfect but still fine.

I would pull the drive center and take it to the hardware store. Get a short bolt of soft metal to fit (will still be a lot harder than wood). There should be a setscrew. Cut the bolt head off, insert it, and use a file with the lathe running leaving about ¼” exposed. A new drive center for 15 cents.

A live center for the tailstock would be great. However, dead centers were used for a very long time with no problem. I would try to get by in the short run with the dead center, at worst it will scorch the wood a little which will probably be cut off anyway.

As to tools, an inexpensive set may not be bad. Normally you get a skew or two (1/2 & 1”), a spindle roughing gouge, one or two spindle gouges, parting tool, and a couple of scrapers. I have heard a lot of praise for a $50-60 set from either Harbor Freight or Grizzly, I can’t remember which. Good thick metal and held an edge well, these reviews were by people who turn almost every day.
I’m only a weekend turner and for spindle work use the set of Sorby’s I bought in the 80’s.

One big $ is in the chuck (min $100) and you will want one fairly soon probably even though it is not necessary for most spindle turning. Note: Spindle work does include boxes, pepper mills, tops, bottle stopper .... anything turned endgrain orientation. Nova has some very good prices on their reconditioned with the G3 at $75 or the SN2 at $100.

Another big $ (for bowl turning) is one or two bowl gouges. Some “sets” include a bowl gouge. Hopefully you already have a grinder. You will want a grinding jig for the spindle or bowl gouges (think $100) or there are plans on line for making your own.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Thanks for the info, keep it coming! For those recommending the HF chisel set, are you talking about this one or this one? I assume that latter, but want to make sure because there's no roughing gouge included in it. Thanks again!


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

Taylormade said:


> this one?


thats the one I was talking about. No roughing gouge? guess not. I thought the 1" was the roughing gouge:huh:?


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## flutterbys (Sep 1, 2011)

NCPaladin said:


> A live center for the tailstock would be great. However, dead centers were used for a very long time with no problem. I would try to get by in the short run with the dead center, at worst it will scorch the wood a little which will probably be cut off anyway.


I use a shot of spray lubrication (Liquid Wrench) on the end of the wood at the tailstock and it seems to help a bit with the dead center issues.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

Taylormade said:


> yeah, I forgot to mention that I knew about the safety aspects of it, which I have already, and I was planning on spending a few hundred bucks on some starter chisels. Any recommendations on specific chisel sets are welcome and appreciated. Are there any chucks or hardware I need to go along with this though? Thanks!


I would buy a few at a time .Go to a wood turnning web site and you will get more info their . I only have henry taylor tool's. It sure wouldn't be any of the sear's stuff. You will have to find out what size the drive is and maybe a nova chuck. That is the one i have. here is about the taylor tool's Lot's of supplyer of different brand's and set's As far as dead centers they make one with ball beiring also which i use . My leathe is a delta with square bed. Now with the round bed you have to watch the tool rest doesn't move. Like on the round bed their isn't much holding it from turning . Also go to this site and see what you can find . http://www.woodturnersresource.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl 

http://www.woodturnersresource.com/websites/ 

http://www.henrytaylortools.co.uk/slected.html


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

slicksqueegie said:


> thats the one I was talking about. No roughing gouge? guess not. I thought the 1" was the roughing gouge:huh:?


I believe it is just their terminology. The far right and the fourth from the left have a tang, also I have never heard of a "spindle gouge" that large... but they are normal for a "spindle roughing gouge". The second from the right is solid bar with no flat tang, that is how all spindle gouges that I have seen are.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The three wing cutters are made for a shaper. What you need for the lathe is a set of wood lathe chisels. If you don't plan to make a lot of projects, or use a lot of oak the cheapest set of chisels will do. The cheap tools will just need sharpen more often. You will also need a pair of lathe calipers to check the diameter of the spindles. I wouldn't turn wood just to practise. Find some simple project important to you like a footstool with spindle legs or something. You will get more out of it that way. Make sure the wood is firmly secured in the machine and tighten from time to time. Just keep if mind if the wood comes out it could hit you in the face. When you start cutting, use the large gouge first to round the piece off. Using the gouge flat it will through the shavings right in your face. If you rotate the gouge clockwise a little you will find it will through the shavings to the right and not in your face. The rest is like a potters wheel where you cut away all but what you want the spindle to look like. I believe you will find the lathe is the most fun of all woodworking equipment.


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## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

I really disagree with the previous post. When you're getting started ALL you should be doing is practicing and having fun, don't worry about trying to make anything in particular, just keep making coves and beads. That's what firewood is for. You can get frustrated if you try to make multiple identical things right away, especially since you'll probably have catches at the wrong moment. Just see how the wood feels.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Well heck, you guys were right, this is a lot of fun and I can see myself spending way too much money doing it. This morning I tried my first piece with the lathe with just a piece of pine I had laying around and some old wood chisels. I'm pleasantly surprised at how much fun it was. Thanks for the tip on creating my own center with the bolt, it worked like a champ. 










Now, as far as usage, the instructions I have tell me to remove the spur center and drive it into the piece before turning. Can I reasonably assume that there's supposed to be an allen screw here in the hole that holds that spur in place? Because I can't find anything that will turn any screws inside that hole.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

The hole in the spur itself is to hold the center point in place, adjust the length, (or to replace the point if you drop it on concrete enough times). This should be an allen screw. Since the point was missing the screw may be missing. The spindle should be hollow, insert a “knock out rod” from the other end and knock the spur out. This may take a little while because it looks like the spur may be frozen in from non-use and need some penetrating oil to loosen it. When reinstalling do not tap the spur into place, just pressure from the tailstock provides all the fit you need.
You may need to use some 0000 steel wool to clean the center; you can also use a dowel and steel wool to clean the inside of the taper if necessary.
When you mount your work piece use a wooded mallet or soft hammer to seat the spur in the wood. Do not use a steel hammer of you can bugger up the end of the spur which can then bugger up the taper in your spindle leading to big problems.
If it is a hard piece of wood tap enough to mark the wood with the spurs. Take a bench chisel and cut the notches for the wings to seat in. Note, one side of the wings are flat so chisel straight down and then remove wood from only the angles side. This will leave a flat in the wood for the flat of the spur to press against. About 1/8”- 1/4” is deep enough.


BYW, that is some very smooth finish of the wood.:thumbsup:


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

Lapse of memory... I do mostly face work turning.
For spindle orientation do not hammer in the spur drive much or you can split the wood, additionally use of a chisel on the end of a spindle is awkward at best.
Cut diagonals on the ends (about 1/8" deep) with your bandsaw, handsaw, whatever you have. A light tap with will seat the blades in the kerf.


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## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

When you said "wood chisels", you didn't mean something besides turning chisels, did you? I wouldn't try using bench chisels or something else.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

sprior said:


> When you said "wood chisels", you didn't mean something besides turning chisels, did you? I wouldn't try using bench chisels or something else.


I have used a bench chisel. 
Not my first choice but it works none the less!
I have turned with an ex-acto blade.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

sprior said:


> When you said "wood chisels", you didn't mean something besides turning chisels, did you? I wouldn't try using bench chisels or something else.


yep, I used an old wood chisel and then went out and bought some starter chisels from HF this morning. Of course I found out immediately how much better real chisels are when turning 

I'm happy, I just need to start some projects now!


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## Biscobob (Jul 25, 2011)

Taylor you need to get a 3/4 x 16 nut for on the headstock shaft behind the spur. You should never drive the spur into or out of the shaft. You will have no choice but derive it out now since the nut was removed and never replaced. Driving the spur out can move the shaft and bearings in the housing so keep an eye on the shaft and only use as little force as necessary. Believe me it happens. :whistling2::yes:

Once you have the nut placed on the shaft you can place an open end wrench over the spur shaft and run the nut out to it and using another wrench push the spur loose.

Also the point in the spur, and the dead center, only need to be tapped in with a good punch placed close to where they enter the centers, there are no threads in that hole for a setscrew. The hole is to remove the point for replacement.

I have the manual for that lathe if you can't find it online.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Alright, will do tomorrow when I hit the BORG up for some supplies. Thanks!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Hand chisels are too short to use on a lathe. If it ever grabs you're going to have a sore wrist. At least glue the handle into a piece of pipe to give you some leverage. I don't drive the spur into the wood. I was taught to take a hand saw and cut the end of the stock corner to corner 1/2" deep both ways to mortise for the spur. I now cut the ends of the stock on the table saw across the center. This will give a much better bite for the spur. Otherwise it may slip and its hard to get the spur back to center.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> Hand chisels are too short to use on a lathe. If it ever grabs you're going to have a sore wrist. At least glue the handle into a piece of pipe to give you some leverage. I don't drive the spur into the wood. I was taught to take a hand saw and cut the end of the stock corner to corner 1/2" deep both ways to mortise for the spur. I now cut the ends of the stock on the table saw across the center. This will give a much better bite for the spur. Otherwise it may slip and its hard to get the spur back to center.


Yeah, I'm done with the hand chisels, I picked up a set of lathe chisels to do damage with so I'm all set there. And I've been making the cross cuts on the band saw to sit the spur into.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Quit messing around on the forum and get out there and turn something. Less chatter, more turning. :laughing:


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## Biscobob (Jul 25, 2011)

Kenbo said:


> Quit messing around on the forum and get out there and turn something. Less chatter, more turning. :laughing:


 
Like maybe a mushroom or two. :laughing:


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Kenbo said:


> Quit messing around on the forum and get out there and turn something. Less chatter, more turning. :laughing:



HAHAHAHA I'm about to go get a nut for my lathe and then we'll see what's what since I can't cut my doors today :furious:

I may end up turning a beer tap before the end of the day.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

slicksqueegie said:


> thats the one I was talking about. No roughing gouge? guess not. I thought the 1" was the roughing gouge:huh:?


Huh? Why is the last one on the right NOT a roughing gouge? Looks like what I see advertised as a roughing gouge. Looks like the roughing gouge I bought. What am I missing?


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