# Table for plunge router



## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

Recently received from a good friend, his older never used - still in the yellow box, DeWalt HD 3HP plunge router, model #DW625. Wondering what modifications to the router & table will be needed to fit/use in a Kreg router table system mod#PRS1045. Can the router bits be changed/adjusted from the top of the table, or does the entire router have to be removed from the table for that operation? Should another power switch be mounted on the table front - by passing the on/off router switch? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Be safe.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Well if you have your heart set on using it. I think adding a "router raizer" would allow you to raise it from above the table. But on its own I don't think it will. 

Some like using a plunge router in a table. Build a thick top.

Al


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If I were to build one....*

I don't know if this "animal" exists but I would do the following:

1. Mount the router in a fixture that is adjustable for height either with a screw or by rotating the motor in it's base.
2. Make the top hinged on one edge, and so it stays up with an assist cylinder or prop rod.
3. When the table is down, flat the router bit is in it's operating position and height. When the table is tipped up, you have total access to the bit for change out, no reaching under the top or through a small hole with wrenches. 

:blink:


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

When you flip a Triton plunge router they have you take out the spring that helps lift the router when used upright. It'll fight against you upside down. If the Dewalt has a micro-adjust and a way to access it from the bottom, then a hole through the top and a handle to spin the adjust is all you need. 

This part: http://www.dewalt.com/tools/router-attachments-dw6966.aspx
Instructions: http://bdk.force.com/FAQ/PKB_Articl...ALT&mode=1&model=%22DW6966%22&sortby=0&terms=

In other words, you don't need the Kreg jig. Just a top you can mount the whole thing under. 

4D


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Woodchux, 
I have this same router mounted in my router table. It would be too heavy for most of my hand work. My router is probably 10 years old and has been used with all types of router bits including raised panel cutters. It's a relatively strong router. 
I adjust the height from underneath with an extended handle. 
10 years ago, this was an expensive router.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I found it...*



woodnthings said:


> I don't know if this "animal" exists but I would do the following:
> 
> 1. Mount the router in a fixture that is adjustable for height either with a screw or by rotating the motor in it's base.
> 2. Make the top hinged on one edge, and so it stays up with an assist cylinder or prop rod.
> ...


I knew I had seen one that the top is hinged and the router stays put:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-8912-shop-made-router-lift


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I had a Fein 1800 plunge base router. It had a spring to help lift it standing up, but pushed against you in a table. I was unable to remove the spring. I also couldn't access the fine adjuster screw from the bottom. The router just wasn't made to be mounted in a table.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*for the reasons mentioned above ...*



woodchux said:


> Recently received from a good friend, his older never used - still in the yellow box, DeWalt HD 3HP plunge router, model #DW625. Wondering what modifications to the router & table will be needed to fit/use in a Kreg router table system mod#PRS1045. Can the router bits be changed/adjusted from the top of the table, or does the entire router have to be removed from the table for that operation? Should another power switch be mounted on the table front - by passing the on/off router switch? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Be safe.


The spring is always fighting you when you want to adjust the height...up too far... down too much etc. They don't work well in a table. Most folks, and I am in that group use a router lift for the critical height adjustments. The built in thread screw adjustment is usually too coarse and has too much play to be precise. 
A plunge router is made to be hand held and is especially useful for dados.... a little at a time to the depth stop, then to the next stop.:yes:


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

woodchux said:


> Can the router bits be changed/adjusted from the top of the table, or does the entire router have to be removed from the table for that operation? Should another power switch be mounted on the table front - by passing the on/off router switch? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Be safe.


My router is mounted to a store bought insert. The insert fits flat into the table recess. 
If I want to change bits, I normally push the router/insert up from the table, make the change and drop it back into the rectangular hole in the top. This is a quick change. 
I did install a separate on/off switch on my router table. Mine is just a cheap standard wall switch. It is a switch and 2 outlet combo. One outlet under the table for the router and a 2nd outlet on the outside of the table. When switched on, the outlets are live to power my router and shop vac. I have a shop vac operating each time I turn on the router. It collects 85% of the wood chips and sawdust. Turn the switch off and both router and vac stop.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*clarification of my post ...*



woodnthings said:


> The spring is always fighting you when you want to adjust the height...up too far... down too much etc. They don't work well in a table. Most folks, and I am in that group, use a router lift for the critical height adjustments. On routers with an above the base or table top height adjustment, the built in thread screw is usually too coarse and has too much play to be precise.
> A plunge router is made to be hand held and is especially useful for dados.... a little at a time to the depth stop, then to the next stop.:yes:


portion underlined was added ....

A router lift has a very precise threaded shaft and usually o rings or other means to take out any play in the adjustment. You can't get that in a plunge router or a built in base adjustment. The height of the bit plays such an important role in getting your cuts perfect it would be a pain to have to be constantly adjusting to get it right. 

Look into Al Thayers router lift plans as he has a "zero play" version and they are easy to build.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

This is the best router lift I've ever used. I believe it would be hard to beat how easy it is to use. The table build costs less and is also easier to build.

Al B Thayer


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

This is the same lift only you build it from a 32 page plan. Cost to build the lift is under $15.

I've used this lift for over 5 years. 

Al


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## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

Many "Thanks" for all of your information and ideas. More research is required on available shop space & material costs related to router tables, tops, fences, & lifts. Having very limited wood tools (circ saw, electric drill, hammer, screw drivers, etc.) may rule out building a router cabinet/top, & the Al B Thayer router lift. 
All of your input was helpful and greatly appreciated. Be safe.


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