# New life for a Stanley #8



## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

First, I must thank Dave Paine.

About a month ago, was looking for a #7 or a #8 plane, was willing to trade one of my #45's for one.

Well took that off the market, there is a few on the Bay, so I will bide my time.

Few days later out of the blue, got a PM from Dave, wanting to know if I would be interested in Restoring a Old #8...:yes:

Well this is the start of the story...here are some pics of this little gem, from the start.

Frog was broken, but was brazed back together.
About 50% of the Japanning was gone.
Tote was broken at the top and at the bottom by the front screw.

Sure is pretty though.

I am almost done with her,
and will post how Dave Paine and myself put it back to a useful tool again.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Frog and parts where cleaned with lemon juice, bed is being cleaned with electrolysis..


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Happy to see the progress pictures. Good work. :thumbsup:

Adding to the thread. My contribution to the restoration effort was initially offering to make a new tote. I then decided the restoration would look better if both tote and the knob were replaced. The knob was not broken, but it had a number of dings/chips.

The Stanley tote designed evolved over the decades.

The No. 8 design is pre-frog adjustment screw. It also has a different design of the tote than later planes.

On the left is the later tote design. Slightly longer screw, so slightly taller tote, and a different shape.

I prefer the later design than the older original design of the No. 8 on the right.









Acowboy also preferred the taller design and had a longer 4 1/2in screw available.

If the plane has the original tote, I recommend measuring the angle of the screw. This is another detail which varied between planes and over the decades.

The No. 8 tote at the top and a No 6 tote of about the same vintage. A noticeable difference in the angle of the hole.









Acowboy measured the angle of the No. 8, 58 deg.

Next step is to select a nice piece of wood. Looking for some interesting grain.









I like to use green masking tape to mark out the shape, hole position, etc. Easy to see the lines against the green tape background. This blank was purchased at a wood working show. Just large enough to use the nice grain and avoid the crack.

I used a tote from a later No. 7 for the shape, and Acowboys measurement for the angle.









Then I drilled the holes, cut out on the bandsaw and sanded the edges smooth.

Time for a shape comparison to confirm close enough for final routing and sanding.









Now to wait for Acowboy to post the picture of the tote and knob after applying finish.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks for the pics and the descriptions guys, it's an interesting restoration. 

I'd love to know the story of the broken tote/frog. Bet the owner spoke some choice words when that happened!

Dave - a question on the new tote. After cutting out, what do you use for the "final routing" is it just a round-over bit or something else?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

trc65 said:


> I'd love to know the story of the broken tote/frog. Bet the owner spoke some choice words when that happened!
> 
> Dave - a question on the new tote. After cutting out, what do you use for the "final routing" is it just a round-over bit or something else?


I would also love to know how this happened. I was surprised at the frog damage, but the sole survived the incident without damage.

The curve on the original totes is about a 3/4in radius. I have this roundover bit, but cannot use since the second side would not contact the bearing.

I use a 1/2in radius roundover bit.

The picture of the tote after I had finished routing.









I do not like the routing operation. So easy for the bit to catch and send the tote flying.

I use two safety blocks to grip the tote. There is not a lot of area.

I raise the bit to the max height, then set back 1/4in. This is easy, not much of the bit cutter is engaging.

I then raise 1/16in. Then 1/32in and finally the last 1/32in.

I start each cut a little in from the end so the cutter does not catch on the end.

I breath a sigh of relief when the routing is completed.

After routing I sand the edges smooth. I mount the tote on a piece of steel rod in my lathe. I lock the headstock. Just using the lathe as a convenient holder for the tote and I have good dust collection.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

I'll follow this one :thumbsup:


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks Dave. 

I know what you mean about the routing. My pucker factor went up just looking at the tote sitting on your router table!


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## Priusjames (Jan 13, 2014)

trc65 said:


> Thanks Dave.
> 
> I know what you mean about the routing. My pucker factor went up just looking at the tote sitting on your router table!


Ditto...lol

I have an 8c that I haven't started to clean/rebuild, will do so vicariously here first!


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

Nice work so far, will enjoy seeing the progress of this plane. :thumbsup:


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Thanks everyone who took interest in this thread.

All the parts came out nice from the two different ways of doing rust removing, but first have to post some pics of the tote and knob.

Dave,
Kudo's..glad you posted the making of the tote, to scary for me, on the router table.
Anyways after our correspondence on finishes, I opted to go with a wipe on poly as it wont darken the wood to much.

Please excuse the photo's as they do not do the tote and knob justice.

Tote and knob arrived already sanded and buffed, just needed the front tote screw hole. After measuring with some calipers for the exact placement of the hole, I used a 13/64 bit in a MF hand drill.
Then enlarged the hole with a small round file.
Wanted to eliminate any tear or chip out on the other side.

The first two pics are the unfinished tote and knob. as the last one


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Nice pictures. I love seeing the originals next to the replacements. :thumbsup:

I wonder if the tote was broken at the same time as the frog.

Seeing the comparison pictures, it would have been sad to have the new tote and the rather beaten up old knob.

I may be biased, but the new knob and tote look very pretty on the plane.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Thanks Dave,

Getting ahead of myself on this thread,

When the plane frog was in the lemon juice for clean up, as you know, the adjuster lever fell off..
Good time now to flatten the face of the frog.

Put everything together, finished tote and know, the brass adjuster just looked out of place.
So took one of my #6 type 15.

This plane is not what you call original, but built to be used as it was intended for.

Debating on a PMV-11 blade and cap iron for it while Lee Valley has free shipping.

Tote and knob are a perfect set up for such a large plane, and your craftsmanship shows..!

Here is what she looks like now...not finished but close...


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Looking fine.

Did you give it a respray, I could not see anything mentioned about painting - gonna be real embarrassed if it is there and I did not read properly lol

It looked like it needed a repaint but in the tub under water it looked black from what I could see

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

I only have 1 coat of VHT engine enamel, but the gloss kind, have to wait one more day to repaint.
Will use the Ford semi gloss kind.

Here are some pics of what looked like after the baths.

Before any baths on parts usually clean them first with either Brake cleaner, or Acetone, if I do want to preserve some of the japanning then it is dish soap and hot water.

Same applies after the bath, or rust removing.

Wire brush, steel wool, and a screwdriver was used to take the rest of the japanning off.

Last pic was the painting of the first coat, will lightly sand using a 400 grade paper. Then come my next coat, takes 7 days to cure.

Lol, like I posted earlier got ahead of myself.

Still have to lap or clean up the sides, going to order this from Amazon




Will order the three different grades


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Between you and Dave ... I'm gonna have to give this a go some time

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

*Drilling the tote*

Another forum member asked me about drilling the hole in the tote. Long holes can be a challenge on the drill press or the lathe.

The quill travel on my drill press is 4 3/8in. This is frequently around 4in. A few drill presses have up to 6in travel.

This means I need to drill from one side, then flip end-for-end and drill from the other side.

I have been frustrated in the time to set up my drilling operations, so I recently purchased a milling vise and a compound table, also called X-Y table. I know compound vises exist, but I wanted the compound table separate for potential use on my wood lathe to position a router or other tools.









The blank was marked with the desired hole angle. I drew lines the full length of the blank. This was to assist in the vertical alignment prior to drilling.

In the Lee Valley template for Stanley totes, they recommend a rectangular blank and orient the tote such that the drilled hole is 90 deg to the edge. Good advise when you have the extra wood width.

This blank was purchased as-is and had a crack at the widest part. I also wanted the grain to run close to horizontal. I needed to use the bottom edge of the blank as the bottom of my tote. I knew this meant the top of the tote would be sloped and could cause a problem in drilling.

I happen to have a piece of steel which I decided to use for the first vertical alignment check.









I then replaced with the 1/4in drill bit to position the bit within the marks and flush with the blank. 









I then raised the drill bit and moved the X knob to position the drill bit to be centred front-to-back. I started to drill and no surprise, the drill tried to wander. I replaced the drill bit with a 1/4in centre drill to create a pilot hole. These are short and stiff bits. No wandering. I can now easily drill on a sloped edge.









I then flipped the blank, and re-aligned the 1/4in bit on the hole marks. I did not take a picture of the second aligning step since it looks like the first step. I moved the X direction knob so the drill bit was flush with the blank. The vise was not too tight so I could move the blank to get the hole marks aligned. I then raised the drill bit and dialed the X knob back to be centred front-to-back.

I had to cut part of the blank off on the bandsaw to allow me to get the blank clamped on this end. I could have cut out all of the tote prior to drilling.

This is the picture after drilling the second part of the hole.









The holes were very close, my best tote hole so far. Off just a bit in the side-to-side, so my second alignment was off just a fraction.

The vise and compound made this operation more accurate and a lot easier than a fixed fence and clamps, which is what I used for earlier tote hole drilling.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Sorry to all if this looks like a derailment. I am desperate to figure this out.

I need a 3/8" hole, at least that long, in birch just 1" thick. Is there any value in a 1/8" pilot hole?
Twist bit or Forstner?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Robson Valley said:


> Sorry to all if this looks like a derailment. I am desperate to figure this out.
> 
> I need a 3/8" hole, at least that long, in birch just 1" thick. Is there any value in a 1/8" pilot hole?
> Twist bit or Forstner?


I only did the centre drill to make a pilot hole due to the curved surface.

If your entry surface is flat and horizontal you should be fine without a pilot hole.

I think a twist drill bit may be stiffer than a Forstner since you want to minimize runout and flexing of the bit in the hole.

I have some long brad point bits. They were cheap and when I came to use them they are not straight. So check that whatever drill bit you are using runs true.

I was surprised my 1/4in Forstner bit is not true. This is part of a cheap set. My Colt Maxi-Cut Forstner bits run true but are expensive.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Robson Valley said:


> Sorry to all if this looks like a derailment. I am desperate to figure this out.
> 
> I need a 3/8" hole, at least that long, in birch just 1" thick. Is there any value in a 1/8" pilot hole?
> Twist bit or Forstner?



If this is for the haft on your adze, I used a 12" long 1/2" twist bit in mine. Clamped the head in the vise at an angle, stood behind it with cordless drill and was able to get very straight hole. Standing behind helped me sight side to side so I didn't get too close to an edge. Longer bit also helped site a square and true hole.

Dave, thanks for showing the pics on drilling the tote. I've not tried making replacement totes yet as I've been concerned with being able to drill hole especially since I don't have a drill press. I think though, after seeing your tutorial, I can get it done with a longer bit (to help with sighting) and my cordless drill.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I get everything lined up straight and square to the drill axis, even in the drill press, and I still get a hole that finishes at the surface at the far end.
To all, thank you.
trc65: PM about a new thread for long holes and leave these magicians to their sleight of hand plane.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Have to add this, the hole was dead on,this is how I got the angle.











Then to show Dave the difference from a type 10, #6 tote, because there was.










The first pic is the #6 plane, #8 is the bottom pic, which the #6 tote did not fit right at all


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

A little more progress, have the frog lapped, bottom and blade side.

Frog was lapped to the bed by
putting a thin paste of rock tumbler grit, fine then polish grade (paste was made by mixing grit with dish soap). on both contact surfaces.
Tedious operation of moving the frog back and forth a little in its travel path.

Pics are the bed ready for the lapping.

Frog and bed after the process.


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## afx (Feb 5, 2010)

Looking great man, keep posting pics!

I have a hell of a time figuring out how to lap the frog contact points on my plane restores. I just don't have the patience like you do to make a hundred thousand little swipes with honing paste :icon_smile: Kudos to you on that!

Great work so far.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Thanks for the comment,

I used a small honing stone to start with to knock down the major tooling marks, should of added that to start with, the paste does help with showing the contact points of frog and bed. Wish there was an easier way to do this.

Trying to do this right,
Next am working on the blade, ordered a DMT D8EE stone or plate to help me get a better edge on all my tools.

Sole is next...it's not bad at all...
just way long...

Pic of the sole and progress so far.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Terrific progress. Very well done on lapping the frog mating surfaces. They look much better than Stanley out of the factory. :thumbsup:

The sole does seem to go on forever. 

If you do not have a granite block or long piece of glass, a piece of MDF can be used. Use spray adhesive to glue down some abrasive paper.

The important area is the toe and especially around the mouth. I mark with indelible ink so I know when I have got this area flat.


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## laadams85 (Mar 21, 2014)

If you have a cast iron table saw that would also work for a good flat surface, that is what I am using to get my plane flat. I have used sheets of sand paper to get my iron flat, but that's too short for the sole. I'm going to try cutting belt sander paper and using that.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Thanks everyone, Have a piece of Marble that measure 36"x4" and is straight and level.
Amazon has this for sandpaper..3M Stikit Tri-M-Ite 3 1/4 rolls.
Got the 100, 150, 220 grit combination.

That should work..?

Has anyone used the DMT D8EE in there sharpening..?


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Never seen a frog lapped that well - As Dave said, better than the factory ever got them!

That's a nice chunk of marble, perfect for the job. 

FYI for the future, check out Klingspor's for all your sandpaper needs. I use them for everything now - best value and best quality for most needs. Found them from recommendations from many, many different people here in various posts.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

You guys put me to shame, I just pick em up and use them.

Oh Dave that refurb one got used again yesterday on a door with cranky grain. Set nice and fine it did a better job than the electric one,

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

acowboy said:


> Thanks everyone, Have a piece of Marble that measure 36"x4" and is straight and level.
> Amazon has this for sandpaper..3M Stikit Tri-M-Ite 3 1/4 rolls.
> Got the 100, 150, 220 grit combination.
> 
> ...


I normally stop at 150 grit, but it does not hurt to go to 220, just more time. Not really going to impact performance as long as you were flat at e.g., 150 grit.

I have a couple of diamond plates, one is a DMT, not sure which one.

I used these in sharpening blades for restorations, if the edge is not too bad. For really bad edges where I have to take off a decent amount of metal to get a good/square edge, I just start with 80 grit paper.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Have attempted to sharpen the blade, mind you this is just up to a 1200 grit. Bevel is at 25 degrees.

Had to take it out for its first outing, still have to lap the sole and finish the blade with the 8000 grit plate, which is on the way.

Only had a piece of birch that was long enough for the plane, for a test run.

Backside of the blade..may have to grind some to get past the pitting.

Also results....


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Congratulations on a terrific restoration.

The plane looks very good. All ready for proud display and use. :thumbsup:

Nice to get to the point of making fluffy shavings. 

I hate when I find the back is pitted at the edge.

If you are going to get a new blade, I would leave it alone. Looks like a lot of metal would need to be removed to get to a pit free back edge.


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## EastexToolJunky (Mar 25, 2013)

I have ran into a few irons that looked like that. I've wondered if putting a 5 degree back bevel would eliminate a lot of the major pitting at the edge, and how that would affect performance. The idea is to flatten the back until most is gone, then get past the rest with a slight back bevel. I haven't tried it out yet though.


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## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

If a plane iron does have pitting around the edge you will never really get a good edge on the iron and just as Eastex says a way round it is to put a slight back bevel on the iron.What this does is move the edge further into the iron itself.

The effect it has on the plane is to change the angle of attack of the iron, its a method that is also used when planing stock with tight curly grains and it really helps to cut down on tear out in the stock.


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## MarkE (Jan 29, 2014)

I agree that a back bevel will help with taking the pitting out of the edge, if it isn't too deep.

Even if you can't get all of the pitting out of the cutting edge, that iron can still be used. It will just leave small ridges, the size of the pits that remain, on the surface being planed. You should be able to easily remove these with a smooth plane, scraper or sandpaper.

Eventually, you will sharpen passed the pitted area.


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## eschatz (Feb 12, 2014)

This thread has totally inspired me to restore my broke down #5. I bought it for $15 and payed WAY too much. Youthful exuberance! It is a literal pile of rust. It also has one of the wings of the side chipped off. : ( Whoever dropped it probably cracked it and then cut the ear off of the side so it wouldn't crack to the sole. 

Anyways, awesome thread. I'm going to get this thing rocking!


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

eschatz said:


> This thread has totally inspired me to restore my broke down #5. I bought it for $15 and payed WAY too much. Youthful exuberance! It is a literal pile of rust. It also has one of the wings of the side chipped off. : ( Whoever dropped it probably cracked it and then cut the ear off of the side so it wouldn't crack to the sole.
> 
> Anyways, awesome thread. I'm going to get this thing rocking!


Am so glad to here this.

Person to thank is really Dave Paine.

Here is a link that I have seen several time before even having any correspondence with Dave. And just so happens one of the planes he acquired for his restoration is my #8.
The link is also inspiring on what can be done, and how too.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/latest-planes-restoration-51664/

A new bed can be found in time, the fun and experience on doing a restore is worth more than your purchased price.

Especially when your finished....watch out you will want to do another...I will bet on that.


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## eschatz (Feb 12, 2014)

I'm having the hardest time getting the japanning off of the inside cavity of the plane. How did you get that off? I have a 2" crimped wire wheel chucked in my DP and it's getting the knob and tote areas pretty good. It won't go in the middle though. I'm guessing paint thinner is the way.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

I use a chemical stripper and a brass wire brush. Works great.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

+1 for chemical stripper. 

How much this removes varies from plane to plane. It gets most of the paint off. Always some areas which need scraping by hand. Large or small screwdriver depending on the location.

Brushes cannot get into the corners. Need the chemicals or the hand scraping for such locations.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Another vote..

eschatz,
Don't forget to take pics, I forget sometimes and I look back, gee which I took a pic...to late now.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

An update on the progress.

Sandpaper came in yesterday and this mourning started to lap the sole.

Started off with the 100 grit, sandpaper has it's own adhesive applied to the back.

My start was just to see how off the bottom was, and am surprised how flat it was considering the size. When lapping I have turned the plane around still lapping the same side.

Will switch to the 150 grit, after thought is, I should of started off with a 80 grit first

Really am thinking of getting a new blade for it, but will try that 5 degree back bevel.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Good progress.

I love the custom station for the lapping/sharpening board. :thumbsup:

The Pressure Sensitive Adhesive does stick well. Do not be surprised if the paper breaks when you want to change to fresh or another grit.


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## aztoolman (Oct 13, 2013)

Love the wood grain on that custom made tote/knob combo, very nice Dave. As usual nice restoration Cowboy. :thumbsup:


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Looking good!

Glad to hear you are going to try the five degree back bevel. Never needed to do that myself, but I am curious to see what kind of results you get.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

I think I am finished, putting a slight bevel on the back side of the plane blade..using the ruler trick...:yes:

As for the sole.
Did a few more passes with 150 grit then move to the 220...was getting to shiny for me..

When the extra extra fine plate arrives, I will do the blade again.
I have no doubt this plane will be a good user, it is now with a blade only sharpened with 1200 grit plate.

I would like to thank everyone who commentated and gave suggestions. And to all that even looked..:thumbsup:

And a very special thanks to Dave Paine, you have a friend here forever..:thumbsup:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Always good to see the "action pictures" with a set of nice fluffy shavings. :yes:

Well done on a terrific restoration. The plane will now have a good second life. :thumbsup:

I am happy to have made a new friend.

Almost sad to see this thread reach the desired conclusion.

Lets hope one of the readers is inspired enough to get started on their own restoration - and a new thread.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

That came out great.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

I will still leave this thread open, as if another frog is found may just replace it, or if I decide to switch out the blade.

Thought I better at least leave a before and after shot of this little gem.
At least to me it is.

I have tried to capture some of the grain in the tote and knob, the light play changes with every angle.
You would have to see it in your own hand.

My hat is off to you Dave..:thumbsup:

Edit:
Thought about it.
It is done...
Last Pictures where taken after it was waxed with Min-Wax paste.

Final note to beginners, on waxing any hand-tools

"Do not use a silicon based wax or polish, this will transfer off your tools to your project,
and will affect your finishing"


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

Real nice job on the plane. 

Now I have a question. Has anyone used a bead blaster to clean the japanning off? Bead material is soft and not aggressive like sand or Black Beauty. I have used it to clean the rust off the sole and sides. I also have been thinking of setting up my surface grinder up to level the sole and clean up the sides. Has anyone tried this?

The last thing I want to ask has anyone tried powder coating to finish the painted areas. Powder coat is similar to the original finish in that it is sprayed on as a powder and placed in an oven and baked on. It is a very hard finish and I would think would wear as the original.

Again real nice job on the No. 8.

Paul


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Have not used sandblasting or bead blasting, yet. So I cannot comment or advise on that.

Surface grinding I would advise against that, might be to aggressive.
You have more control on what you take off with the different options of grit secured to a known true flat surface.

It's more work, but less chance of a mess up.

Electrolysis and even soaking your plane if it is rusted will remove some of the japanning, especially where the rust is under the paint and cannot be seen.

And as far as powder coating..a nice finish..chance of plane being warped from 400+ degrees... 
Yes application of japanning requires baking also, but it wont leave the factory warped...

This is just my thoughts...

And thanks for the compliment...hope to see your project..:thumbsup:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I had a friend take a couple of my restorations into his work to use a blasting cabinet. I went along for one of the session. I think the media was small glass beads.

It takes a long time to get off the paint. Some areas did not clean up well, such as between the letters. I had to clean off these with a small screw driver.

I think a surface grinder is a bit overkill for sole flattening. It may work, but you want to be careful not to remove too much metal.

A person I used to work with sent out his hand planes to have the soles machined flat. I did not ask if this was milled or surface grinding.

I find 80 grit paper works fast. As Acowboy said, it also provides a lot of control.

Powder coat is a tough finish. I also would not want to risk putting my planes in a hot oven to cure.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

Thanks for the advice. I may try surface grinding an old block plane that has a broken casting just to see what it does. If I do I'll see if I can post a picture of before and after. I have a blast cabinet that is filled with 80 grit glass bead. I used it on a couple of rusted block planes to see what it would do. I also used it on the blades they came out pretty good.

Paul


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

*It is done...*

:thumbsup:
Have to post these final pics.

My 8000 grit Diamond plate came in a week ago, and after several attempts to get this old #8 just right...nope.

Blade is honed as best I could...Cap Iron or Chip Breaker was clogging up...not good.

Was not seating right on the blade..reading several article's on how to correct this, came across a very cool video on importance or what it actually does...
http://vimeo.com/41372857

So I honed the Cap Iron and it sits tight on the blade, no chips or debris getting between the cap iron or blade...what a difference

Anyways here is a pic on a makeshift bench, had to retire my custom sharpening station...Dave, still laugh at that comment...:laughing:

But sad to say the restore is done, it was a-lot of fun.

Must add this, would not like to use this plane for any length of time,
It will give you a workout.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Nice set of final pictures. Well done. :thumbsup:

How can you retire that custom sharpening station after all the time you invested in it. :laughing: 

I did not appreciate the significant contribution of the cap iron until one of my first restorations. The plane skipped all over the test board. Shavings caught between blade and cap iron. 

I had see the video so was aware of the importance of the position, but had not appreciated the need to hone the front edge of the cap iron. Now this is part of any restoration.

The Lee Valley replacement cap irons are terrific and can be a very good upgrade for performance.

I can imagine the workout from using a No. 8. Gives a new perspective on the energy the old craftsmen had to expend to get things done.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks for the update, and the reminder on needing to tune the chip breaker. Glad to see the beast in action, a fitting end to a great thread!


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

Very nicely done. That is a real nice looking plane.

Interesting video, I usually hone the chip breaker flat to keep the chips from jamming between the blade and the breaker, but had not realized the importance of the angle.

I am certainly no expert on planes, but I am trying to get better at using them. I have an old set of Audel woodworking books, with a copyright of 1949 (same year I was born) that belonged to my Father. In the book, it indicates that the chip breaker should be set back from 1/32 to 1/8 depending on the depth of cut. So I guess they were not too far off.

Paul


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Fastback said:


> I have an old set of Audel woodworking books, with a copyright of 1949 (same year I was born) that belonged to my Father. In the book, it indicates that the chip breaker should be set back from 1/32 to 1/8 depending on the depth of cut. So I guess they were not too far off.


The knowledge for setting the cap iron has been around a LONG time. 

I have a book called "Planecraft" published in 1934 by the old Record company. Recently republished by Woodcraft. Great book by the way.

There is a section on recommendations of distance of the cap iron from the blade edge

"For rough work cap iron 1/32in to 1/8in from the edge
For finishing work, cap iron 1/64in from the edge
For hard woods with irregular grain - as close as you can get it to the cutting edge"

Knowledge such as this is easily forgotten when the old trades and craftsmen fade into history.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

> The knowledge for setting the cap iron has been around a LONG time.
> Knowledge such as this is easily forgotten when the old trades and craftsmen fade into history.


I have a few years experience with planes, but that was years ago.
Just recently started using and restoring them again.

Do remember my Grandpa cleaning his plane after using it, after putting the blade and cap together, always held it up and looked at it.
Now I know why, I think.
To this day I still wonder how he got his planes so sharp just using a oil stone and a leather strap, no jigs at least as far as I can remember where used.

Thanks for the tip on the book, found a copy on line at a really good price.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

I have a update on the #8.

In this whole restore or rehab, I did not even do a plane study on it for others.

For those who are new to restoring or cleaning up Stanley planes, here are some useful links 
http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html
http://virginiatoolworks.com/tools/stanley-planes/bailey-type-study/

The #8 I have is not going to be 100% period nor is it intended to be.
What was planed was to bring it back to a working tool again.

Which was done with some added improvements with the help of Dave Paine. His design or build of the stronger Tote and knob, just only added to the functionality of this tool.

I do have a new frog coming for it, to replace the brazed one that is on it.

So here it is.
The bed of the plane, to me appears to be a Type 6
The frog is a Type 8
Lever cap, Iron, cap iron looks to be from a type 6

Here are some pics, that may help my theory.
I have seen some raised dot's on lever caps and on other older plane
foundry mark..?


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## Jeff Shafer (Nov 16, 2010)

Wow that video is really cool, who knew someone did all that research on that subject?! And all the restoration and historical info in the thread is awesome as well, the only problem is now I won't sleep until I restore my no. 4 and no. 6. But at least I can show my Wife the thread when she tells me I'm crazy ha ha!


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Jeff Shafer said:


> Wow that video is really cool, who knew someone did all that research on that subject?! And all the restoration and historical info in the thread is awesome as well, the only problem is now I won't sleep until I restore my no. 4 and no. 6. But at least I can show my Wife the thread when she tells me I'm crazy ha ha!


Crazy..lol.
Glad you found this thread useful...

A new tool, especially a Lie-Nielsen or Veritas would be nice to own.
For me I do enjoy an older tool, may need a little work or a lot.
Bottom line..Bring it back to a useful tool again.

I like to think better than when it left the factory.

Another project is under way, and I get the honor again to work with Dave Paine.

A quote from him in a email: 


> I feel there is always the potential for a nice piece of wood, just needs to be discovered.


Same applies to a neglected plane or tool.

Replacement frog arrives today..will have to lap that one to the bed.
will post pics...then the #8 will be done...promise..


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

New frog has arrived,
Little clean up and some lapping....:thumbsup:

Will keep the original japanning.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

This is last of the pics...

The plane is completely finished now.

To summarize the project:

Plane was acquired from another forum member...Dave Paine.
Tote and Knob was made, also by Dave Paine.
Plane bed was cleaned and d-rusted by electrolysis. 
Small parts where d-rusted with lemon juice.
Paint was VHT engine enamel, gloss black,..0000 steel wool was used to reduce the shine somewhat.

Thanks to Dave Paine, timetestedtools, adot45 and other members who have written threads on restores.

:thumbsup:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Nice looking final pictures. The new frog looks very good. It is the best picture I have seen of the brass adjustment nut with the patent dates. I see the references in the types studies, but so far have not had one in my planes. :thumbsup:


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

I'll echo that ... nice final pictures

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

I should post this,

The frog is definitely a type 6 style frog with that style of a lateral lever.
Has three patent dates on it. No sign of it having been replaced.
The odd thing, is that the brass adjusting still has the right hand threads...?

Possible explanation, a prime example where Stanley used up some parts laying around..?


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