# Cable railing holes through dock piling



## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

Hello,

I would like to install a set of cable rails on my dock by drilling holes through the pilings of my dock. I was hoping someone would have some tips, tricks, or a jig that I could use on a round pole. The hole needs to be perfectly straight through the piling. Any tilt in the hole will make the rail look janky.

Here is an example of a cable rail system.

Cable rail example

There are plenary of videos for square posts, but none for round post that is around 10 to 12 inches in diameter.

Thanks


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

welcome to the forum, JV.
could you please post photos of what you actually have ??, what size are they, how many, etc.

depending on the quantity, have your local metal shop make a round "saddle" the size of your post with a pipe welded to the side of it as the guide. fasten the saddle to the post either with straps (that might slip) or screws (that won't slip). and a long auger bit .


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Without a jig, I'd use a long ship's auger 18" which should give you enough length to level out your drill.
A line level taped to the drill could also work and they are really cheap, 
A torpedo level will also work, but they are much longer, around 7" to 10" long.
I used ship's or electrician's augers to drill for the large supply cables through my floor joists.
Use care because a1/2" drill on low speed has a lot of torque and it may smack you in the head.


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## Half Fast Eddie (Jan 12, 2022)

A 12” plastic speed square strapped to the piling with really long radiator hose clamps could be used for a guide.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Without seeing your dock I would wonder if railing is a good idea or not.


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

Thanks for the replies, and request to post pictures of what I am trying to do!

I need to drill a small 9/32-inch hole, but long hole completely through the pilings to keep folks from falling into the water, without blocking the view. I like the clean look of the cable rail. I have planned for 7 cables four inches apart. The posts are 36 inches above the deck, and vary in diameter. I would say the longest diameter is 12 inches. It is raining outside so I did not measure each pole. The size of the hole is not that big. I am planning to use protective sleeves. Here they are on amazon.

Amazon protective sleeve
Amazon SS cable railing

Image 74 are the pilings
Image 75 are the sleeves
Image 76 is the spool of cabling


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

makes sense to me !!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Half Fast Eddie said:


> A 12” plastic speed square strapped to the piling with really long radiator hose clamps could be used for a guide.


Ok, let's go one step further! Saw a piece of 1" dia PVC by 10" long down the length to form two equal halves. Then attach one half to the top of the "speed square" or other right angle support to for a channel for the long auger. Once the hole is started a few inches in, you can remove the support and keep going to the full length of the auger.


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

woodnthings said:


> Ok, let's go one step further! Saw a piece of 1" dia PVC by 10" long down the length to form two equal halves. Then attach one half to the top of the "speed square" or other right angle support to for a channel for the long auger. Once the hole is started a few inches in, you can remove the support and keep going to the full length of the auger.


I am not seeing how this is going to work. Sorry, I am an electrical guy and not so much a mechanical guy.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

If I was walking on your dock I would want something with a much more solid feel than a cable for the top. the cable would be good for keeping smaller folks (children) from falling, but I think adults would much prefer a solid top.

George


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I would take a 2x4 and drill holes through on the wide (3-1/2") side using a drill press, including two holes for screws to temporarily fasten it to the oiling. Then, using 4-1/2" screws, I'd fasten the 2x4 to the side of the piling and drill the holes. Long bits have a tendency to wander, so go slowly. My guess is you'll find that the holes need to be a good bit larger than the cable in order to get the cable through. 

I'm curious where you are. Keeping people from falling in seems like a good idea, but I've never seen anything like that on a pier around here.


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

GeorgeC said:


> If I was walking on your dock I would want something with a much more solid feel than a cable for the top. the cable would be good for keeping smaller folks (children) from falling, but I think adults would much prefer a solid top.
> 
> George


Absolutely, we plan to put a rail across the top and at a right angle facing towards the view of the camera. The decking is wear deck, and plan to place that over top of the wood railing. First, I want to have the cable wire rail in first to keep my grandson from jumping over board! ;-)


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

Quickstep said:


> I would take a 2x4 and drill holes through on the wide (3-1/2") side using a drill press, including two holes for screws to temporarily fasten it to the oiling. Then, using 4-1/2" screws, I'd fasten the 2x4 to the side of the piling and drill the holes. Long bits have a tendency to wander, so go slowly. My guess is you'll find that the holes need to be a good bit larger than the cable in order to get the cable through.
> 
> I'm curious where you are. Keeping people from falling in seems like a good idea, but I've never seen anything like that on a pier around here.


I am down in Florida, and I went to my local dock and marine lumber supply store. They showed us the wire rail system, but wanted $2,000-$3000 just for the hardware. I found all the hardware on amazon for around $500. Stainless steel ain't cheap.

Making a template on a 2x4 is a great idea, especially for consistency on hole spacing!

In my search on the internet, I have found jigs that are used on pipes where one side is a V and the other a plate with screws. Then they form a sandwich around the pipe. See the link below.

Drill right precision jig

I could rig up something like this. All the COTS jigs like this are too skinny to go around a 12" pole. However, I could craft one similar to this. I am wondering if this is what the concept is for the "speed square"?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

DrillBitJVC said:


> Absolutely, we plan to put a rail across the top and at a right angle facing towards the view of the camera. The decking is wear deck, and plan to place that over top of the wood railing. First, I want to have the cable wire rail in first to keep my grandson from jumping over board! ;-)


OK, that sounds good.

George


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

One option might be to modify a portable drill guide. To create an appropriately sized vee block to register against the dock post.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If possible drill from both sides of the post with a 2 X 4 spacing gauge so where the cable goes in and where it comes out are at the same height.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Make sure the stuff from Amazon is the same as from the lumber yard. Not all stainless is equal. There's 18-8, 304 and 316, 316 being considered the most corrosion resistant. 

I'd dare say your grandson is going to find a way in no matter what. Around my parts, kids who can't swim are made to wear life vests. And, it's almost never too early to learn to swim.


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

Quickstep said:


> Make sure the stuff from Amazon is the same as from the lumber yard. Not all stainless is equal. There's 18-8, 304 and 316, 316 being considered the most corrosion resistant.
> 
> I'd dare say your grandson is going to find a way in no matter what. Around my parts, kids who can't swim are made to wear life vests. And, it's almost never too early to learn to swim.


They are all "stated" as 316 stainless steel at the lumber yard and on Amazon.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

My thinking is first stretch a string. Level across each post, mark center. Also avoids measuring off deck.

Use another person to eyeball alignment with string as you drill. I’ve done this before for other tasks and it should get you close enough.

The issue I see with jigs is they register off the post, which may be off level, slightly tapered, or have an irregular surface - so they would need to be shimmed or adjusted which seems a little fiddly to me.

Do the sleeves need to be used in wood, or are they for pipe? If you drill a slightly oversized hole that gives some wiggle room for minor errors in drilling.


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## ducbsa (Jul 6, 2014)

Invite us over for cocktails to discuss!


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## Kenh3497 (Jun 5, 2021)

DrillBitJVC said:


> Making a template on a 2x4 is a great idea, especially for consistency on hole spacing!


Depending on the number of holes you need to drill a piece of pipe 1/4" or 3/8" could be driven through the 2x4 and be used as a guide for the bit. The steel pipe being more wear resistant that the wood. If the tops of the pilings are a consistent height the 2x4 can set on the deck and be used as a story board so each hole is exactly the same for each piling. Other wise you could hang the 2x4 off the top of the piling and still use it as a story board.

Ken


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## Half Fast Eddie (Jan 12, 2022)

DrillBitJVC said:


> I am not seeing how this is going to work. Sorry, I am an electrical guy and not so much a mechanical guy.


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

Half Fast Eddie said:


> View attachment 436909


Thank you! I would have never guessed that. That is a great idea.


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

Kenh3497 said:


> Depending on the number of holes you need to drill a piece of pipe 1/4" or 3/8" could be driven through the 2x4 and be used as a guide for the bit. The steel pipe being more wear resistant that the wood. If the tops of the pilings are a consistent height the 2x4 can set on the deck and be used as a story board so each hole is exactly the same for each piling. Other wise you could hang the 2x4 off the top of the piling and still use it as a story board.
> 
> Ken


There will be 7 holes, 4 inches apart per piling. The pilings are 3 feet tall.


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## Kenh3497 (Jun 5, 2021)

DrillBitJVC said:


> There will be 7 holes, 4 inches apart per piling. The pilings are 3 feet tall.


 How many pilings need holes drilled? I suggested the pipe as a drill guide as the wood will wallow out fairly fast.

Ken


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

Kenh3497 said:


> How many pilings need holes drilled? I suggested the pipe as a drill guide as the wood will wallow out fairly fast.
> 
> Ken


6 pilings, so 42 total holes to drill.


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## Half Fast Eddie (Jan 12, 2022)

Kenh3497 said:


> How many pilings need holes drilled? I suggested the pipe as a drill guide as the wood will wallow out fairly fast.
> 
> Ken


He is using these bushings … should be a neat installation.


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

I am thinking of a video to demonstrate the installation of the system may be justified!


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Just an idea - How about drilling the holes you need in a 2x2 and then just attaching the 2x2 to the pilings? If you ever want to undo it, you would only need to remove the 2x2s and leave behind a few small holes in the pilings.


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

DrillBitJVC said:


> Hello,
> 
> I would like to install a set of cable rails on my dock by drilling holes through the pilings of my dock. I was hoping someone would have some tips, tricks, or a jig that I could use on a round pole. The hole needs to be perfectly straight through the piling. Any tilt in the hole will make the rail look janky.
> 
> ...


I have done something similar except with nylon rope. There were 5 pilings about 8'0" apart and 2 rows like that for a total of 10 pilings to be drilled. First I cut the pilings to height 48" above the deck. Then pulled a dry line from one end to the other to establish a centerline. The pilings were off too much to bore a true centerline . The owners thought that 
the ropes would look best if the straight line was abandoned and bore the center of each piling independently. 
Actually this looked good when done. 
I made a stand of lumber for the top hole. This was 8" long and 47" high and made square like a box to accommodate a 1-1/2" Greenlee auger bit 18" long. The pilings averaged 10" in diameter so the stand had to be removed to finish the bore. 
I did all the top holes first, then cut the stand down for the second of 4 holes . The third hole down was completed and then the last hole. I used a shop made center square to align the holes for a straight line. 
The square is a 90° angle made with scrap 1x2 . Then another piece is fastened thru the center to establish a 45° angle. The square is placed on top of the piling and sighted for straight to the center of the next piling. I plumbed down from the square to the stand in two places. Then screwed a 1x batten to the stand. This kept the auger bit in line as well as the correct height .The stand was made as a box so the deck was marked with chalk so it could be placed in the same place after the stand was cut down. I used chalk because it washes away easily when done. 
This took about 7 hours not including running the rope which the owners did themselves.
I rented a Milwaukee 3/4" drill for the day . This is the tool you need if you do not have one. 
mike


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## Scurvy (Apr 12, 2013)

My architect’s hat is on.

You could skip the through-holes and use terminal tackle at each piling. That means a turnbuckle and separate length of wire-rope (cable) for each gap between pilings. This approach gets you the best installation possible, based upon the accuracy of your layout.

Mind you, with your threading through the piling method, you probably won’t be able to get the wires tight enough without pulling out the terminal tackle and/or running out of adjustment. The cables will stretch a lot and look crummy, plus they won’t provide the kind of firm support that makes people feel comfy. At most, you might be able to thread through one piling, but that would be about it, and your back at the challenge of shooting a straight hole.

The straight shooting method, believe it or not, is to get the holes laid out on both sides of the piling and then drive halfway through from each side so you make the connection inside the piling. It cuts your angular error in half and you can use a shorter bit.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

To drill a level hole from both sides, you could use a laser level that projected onto the piling an also the bit. Then you only have to worry about side-to-side alignment. Plus, your neighbors will wonder what the heck you’re doing out there drilling at night.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I think you’re going to have a hard time drilling through pilings that diameter and having the exit hole end up where you want. Your drill bit being just over 1/8” is going to want to wander and follow the soft grain in the wood. Even drilling halfway from each side may be difficult. It would be easier if they made the collars a little larger to let you use a stiffer bit. Good luck, take your time.
Mike Hawkins


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

firehawkmph said:


> Your drill bit being just over 1/8”
> 
> It would be easier if they made the collars a little larger to let you use a stiffer bit


The collars shown in the link provided by the OP are 1/4 inch OD.

Drills with "parabolic" style flutes or brad point drills will reduce drill wandering.
COMOWARE 12“ Extra Long Brad Point Drill Bit Set - 300mm Carbon Steel Wood Drill Bit Set for Hardwood, Plywood, Plastic, 7Pcs | 1/8'', 3/16'', 1/4'', 5/16'', 3/8'', 7/16'', 1/2'': Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

A cobalt drill will be a stiffer material however this offering is not a brad point style.
Drill America - GLBCOX121/4 1/4" x 12" Cobalt Aircraft Extension Drill Bit, GLBCO Series: Long Length Drill Bits: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

DrillBitJVC said:


> Thank you! I would have never guessed that. That is a great idea.


The problem with that idea is your drill will need to be another 6 "to 8" longer before you even start to drill into the piling.
Door bell drills are typically 24" to 36" long and Home Depot has them or did, made by Greenlee.
BUT they maybe 1/4"? I donno?
Yep:


door bell hanger drill 1/4" diameter - Google Search










Bosch 1/4 in. x 18 in. Installer Drill Bit BH2001T - The Home Depot


Bosch Bell Hanger bits are made for the professional electrician or low-voltage cable installer. Bosch, the #1 power tool accessory company in the world, invests in research and development and we listen



www.homedepot.com


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## Scurvy (Apr 12, 2013)

Another downside to drilling all the way through is that will allow the passage of water to the very core of the pilings, and accelerate wood rot. Not good.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Scurvy said:


> Another downside to drilling all the way through is that will allow the passage of water to the very core of the pilings, and accelerate wood rot. Not good.


There are several ways to mitigate the water issues, a dab of silicone at the joint, pre-fill the hole with oil, It's a very small horizontal hole with a bushing if I understand it, so not a huge issue.


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## Scurvy (Apr 12, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> There are several ways to mitigate the water issues, a dab of silicone at the joint, pre-fill the hole with oil, It's a very small horizontal hole with a bushing if I understand it, so not a huge issue.


In my work, we have a saying, “If water can get in, water will get in.” Small holes are really devilish, and a urethane sealant is a much better choice than silicone.


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## Half Fast Eddie (Jan 12, 2022)

Scurvy said:


> is to get the holes laid out on both sides of the piling and then drive halfway through from each side so you make the connection inside the piling. It cuts your angular error in half and you can use a shorter bit.


I had thought of that. As long as the holes meet somehow in the middle, you don’t care about that. The important part is how the cables intersect with the face of the piling.


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## TwelveFoot (Dec 30, 2015)

You must be better men than I if you can get two 1/4" diameter 3"+ long holes to meet in the middle.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

TwelveFoot said:


> You must be better men than I if you can get two 1/4" diameter 3"+ long holes to meet in the middle.


I would be doing it with a spade bit, the smaller shank lets you wallow out a bit more in the middle to connect the two holes and still only having a 1/4" opening on both sides. Trick is to drill them as straight as possible, get comfortable, down on your knees if necessary so you can see what you are doing. As Oscar would say, "This ain't rocket surgery!"


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

TwelveFoot said:


> You must be better men than I if you can get two 1/4" diameter 3"+ long holes to meet in the middle.


Yea, that would be a crap shoot. I think the pilings are 12" in dia. so, more like 6" deep 1/4" holes. NOPE ain't likely to happen.
Use a doorbell installers bit 18" or so like I posted:








Bosch 1/4 in. x 18 in. Installer Drill Bit BH2001T - The Home Depot


Bosch Bell Hanger bits are made for the professional electrician or low-voltage cable installer. Bosch, the #1 power tool accessory company in the world, invests in research and development and we listen



www.homedepot.com


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## Half Fast Eddie (Jan 12, 2022)

It’s probably way too late … but i’m concerned about the size of the cable. I think 1/8” is way too small. I’m sure it’s strong enough, but it’s going to be difficult to see especially in dim light. I would propose 1/2” or larger rope and plan to replace it every couple of years.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Based on this photo, I would use heavy duty screw eyes on the dock side of the pilings and a 1/2" or larger rope to connect them. It will not obstruct the view and it will provide much better security against falling over. There are so manydifferent types and even colors of rope, it could be a really nice decorative approach. Look across the canal and see all the different approaches from lattice, to fence to nothing.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I second this approach. Trying to drill small holes through 12 treated posts is going to be a bear.

Over time the steel cable will rust. Rope can easily be replaced.

George


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

It's like anything else, it's just maintenance...


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## DrillBitJVC (10 mo ago)

Hello everyone! Thank you for all the posts (no pun intended) and helpful tips. I tried a few setups and had issues with the ones that were the most complicated. Here is what I went through and what I ended up accepting to get this system installed.

My first setup used a portable drill press with a 110VAC impact drill. After drilling five holes at 5 minutes per hole, the chuck on the portable broke. I did use a template 2x4 with a sticky level on the top. This worked well for aligning the holes from piling to piling. So with the portable drill press broken, I just used the 2x4 template with the impact drill. The chuck broke on it too. So, for giggles, I tried my portable battery drill, and it drilled the hole with no problem. The only issue I can think of was that the impact drill was spinning so fast that the bit could not catch and was melting the treated piling. There was smoke coming from the hole while using the impact drill.

As for the cabling, it is super simple to install and replace when needed. Fittings are clamped on with a hydraulic hand pump press. I also purchased extra fittings and cabling, so it will probably take 20 minutes to replace a cable.

A couple of holes were drilled where they did not come out ideally through the center, but for this part-time carpenter, it was good enough.

I did have a small 4-foot run next to some steps where I used “turn buckles” and screwed them directly into the posts. In the end, this was a little more tedious than drilling holes through the pilings. Attached are the pictures of the 2x4 jig and the installation.

Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread; there are a lot of great ideas and discussions.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

now THAT is a very impresssive and appropriate railing system.
well done, young man - well done indeed.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Looks great, nice work.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Looks great. Is that your tiki hut? Very cool!


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