# Firehouse Kitchen Table



## ehankins (Dec 9, 2011)

Folks,

We are in the process of building a kitchen table for our Firehouse. We have purchased a maple butcher block table top (3'x8') and are looking to have a station logo carved in a separate piece of wood, then inlayed into the maple. 

Once this is done, we were planning on finishing the table top with a clear marine grade epoxy to protect the table from the abuses of 9 fireman.

Our #1 concern is maintenance. We want a table that is going to last with little to no maintenance. We get reassigned to different stations every few years and we do not want the table to get ruined a year after we leave because someone forgot to reapply a finish or something like that.

Any thoughts from the experts? I am not a wood guy at all. Our guy that IS a wood guy, is not a computer guy... lol... He is somewhat of a purest I thinks Tung Oil is the way to go, but again, I am concerned with longevity.

Any and All input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance,

Eric


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Oil is OK*

A film finish like poly, epoxy or varnish will get cut into and scratched and need to be redone. Oil on the other hand can be reapplied easily and the scratches can remain without appearing like a patch job. Mineral oil or other food safe oil is best and just apply weekly. It shouldn't look "perfect" just nicely used...my opinion.  bill


----------



## ehankins (Dec 9, 2011)

Thanks Bill,

One other issue I forgot to mention though is we now have a very stringent cleaning policy that requires us to use a commercial Lysol Kitchen Cleaner on the tables after every meal. Is this cleaner going to cause problems to any of the previously mentioned finishes?

Thanks again


----------



## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

ehankins said:


> Thanks Bill,
> 
> One other issue I forgot to mention though is we now have a very stringent cleaning policy that requires us to use a commercial Lysol Kitchen Cleaner on the tables after every meal. Is this cleaner going to cause problems to any of the previously mentioned finishes?
> 
> Thanks again


Sorry to burst your bubble, but please do yourself a favor and get a 1/4" thick piece of glass to go over your table. then you can use oil/polyurethane/epoxy/ or nything else you desire. Glass will give you best protection and can withstand any cleaner/disinfectant you use. When i work on high end furniture i always reccomend thet get glass and or cover with table pads. Do what you will, but give it serious thought.

Chemmy


----------



## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

ehankins said:


> Thanks Bill,
> 
> One other issue I forgot to mention though is we now have a very stringent cleaning policy that requires us to use a commercial Lysol Kitchen Cleaner on the tables after every meal. Is this cleaner going to cause problems to any of the previously mentioned finishes?
> 
> Thanks again


Sorry to burst your bubble, but please do yourself a favor and get a 1/4" thick piece of glass to go over your table. then you can use oil/polyurethane/epoxy/ or anything else you desire. Glass will give you best protection and can withstand any cleaner/disinfectant you use. When i work on high end furniture i always reccomend that they get glass and or cover with table pads. Do what you will, but give it serious thought.

Chemmy


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*glass may break*

Depending how much "abuse" the table top gets by the guys at the station heavy pans, equipment and elbows etc, clear Lexan may be a better choice ..... if the cleaner is non abrasive. I have a sheet covering my electric stove top, it's not normally used since the cook prefers gas. It holds up fairly well and prevents impacts from the heavier dishes and pans. 

Restaurant kitchens have a similar problem so there's a lot of stainless steel. Not very friendly for eating off. but easy to clean. I don't know what their procedure is for cleaning the butcher block. You may do a search and find out more info. A bar top epoxy may be a choice also.  bill


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Dekopage(sp),/ Epoxy Resin, like bar tops. Expensive but you can hit it with gasoline if you want to wipe it down and worst thing is it might fog the top surface, and you wet sand and polish it back up. Strong as nails. It's poured on and the sides need a temporary mold to keep it from running off until it sets up.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

chemmy said:


> Sorry to burst your bubble, but please do yourself a favor and get a 1/4" thick piece of glass to go over your table. then you can use oil/polyurethane/epoxy/ or anything else you desire. Glass will give you best protection and can withstand any cleaner/disinfectant you use. When i work on high end furniture i always reccomend that they get glass and or cover with table pads. Do what you will, but give it serious thought.
> 
> Chemmy


+1.:yes: That's what I would do. I've used 1/4" clear plate glass on commercial bar tops, restaurant tables, and even used 1/4" mirror. It's very hard to break the glass if it's laying flat. It's the least expensive protective method. The edges should be polished, or at a minimum seamed.










 







.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

aardvark said:


> Dekopage(sp),/ Epoxy Resin, like bar tops. Expensive but you can hit it with gasoline if you want to wipe it down and worst thing is it might fog the top surface, and you wet sand and polish it back up. Strong as nails. It's poured on and the sides need a temporary mold to keep it from running off until it sets up.


Pour on epoxy is a good coating. You don't necessarily need a captive edge. When ready to pour, brush the epoxy on the edges, and then do the pour. Pour slowly and evenly from the center out, and let it run off the edges.

The top and the edges become harmoniously integral.:laughing: When it gets near kicking off, and starts to gel, some of the drippings on the bottom can be cut off with a utility knife. When dry just belt sand the bottom.












 







.


----------



## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

When you've been around long enough and tried every so called "bullet proof" finish out there, you soon come to realize you need something better for long term protection. and yes, unless you drop something very heavy, it should not break, and even if it does, it's cheap to replace. You could also go thicker to 5/16 or even 3/8ths, but then it becomes cumbersome and i really don't know just how much extra protection you would actually get. I've used all the resins and epoxies and catalyzed finishes, nothing withstands the abuse that is received in restaurants [or in this case a firehouse] - again though i will leave it to the ask-er as to what he decides to do or use.

Thanks for your input though Cabinet man. :thumbsup: 

sincerely,


----------

