# Rustic door joints



## Tropic Home (Oct 12, 2007)

Thanks to all for the answers and suggestion to my previous questions. With a little research I've figured out what I am looking for, in description, is a refined shed door over a rustic door. I have drawn up another plan. My thoughts are to use 1" and 2" stock for my exterior doors and 6/8" and 3/4" for my interior doors. Usiong the same design I want to make my cupboard doors and a few shuttlers.
Will this work? 2"x5" for the rails and stiles, using a simple overlaping joint. Using 1"x5" tongue and groove to make the panel and using my router tongue the perimiter of the panel. Groove the interior portion of the frame to accept the panel. Use 1"x5" for a horizontal and two diagonal braces secured using biscuts. 
If this design will work , what is the best means of doing overlaping joint? Gluing with a couple of screw & plugs or pegs? I know a mortise and tenon is stroger and the joint is not visable, but I am not overly concerned about the visable aspect.
Again my tools are limited to a drill, rounter, small table saw, circular saw, biscut joiner, electric hand planer, and miter saw. The wood being used is teak. Living in Costa Rica so options are limited.
Also, shoult I be guleing up the tongue and grove panel?


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Are the views above of the same door? Or is it door A and door B with a different juncture of the rails and stiles?

Personally I like the looks of door A (the one on the left with the, I assume, overlap joint and dowels holding the joint together. You will then add the mid horizontal and the diagonals. It will look good.

One inch rails and stiles with 1" inner panel will make a strong door for the exterior. For the interior doors you typed " 6/8" and 3/4." What did you mean to type?

Those will be very pretty and very expensive doors with $24 to $36 per board foot lumber.

We will be anxiously awaiting pictures of the finished project.

G


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

TH,
The design you have looks like it should work. With the tools you have, you should be able to build them. What you should do is build some simple jigs for doing some of you milling operations. I would build a jig to do your half lap joints. You want something that will allow your router to cut the joint and at the same time provide a flat surface for it to ride on complete with a straight edge guide to act as a stop to form your shoulder. You want the router to have support that is independent of the surface you are cutting so it leaves a flat cut and has a continuous surface to ride on. You could make the tongue and grooves on your router table with the correct bits. The planer will take care of the thickness of your different components. Miter saw for the angles of your diagonals. I don't think I would glue the tongue and groove pieces. Measure the total width of the distance between the grooves along the inside of you cutout (with the frame dryfit together) and deduct 1/4"-3/8" for movement, assuming your slot is around 3/4" deep. When you put the door together, find some kind of spongy weatherstripping that will fit inside the slot and provide a cushion between the panel and the slot. This will prevent the panel from moving on its own every time the door is moved. I like the idea of a couple of decorative dowels in each half lap joint. Should look nice when done.
Mike Hawkins:smile:


----------



## Tropic Home (Oct 12, 2007)

"Are the views above of the same door? Or is it door A and door B with a different juncture of the rails and stiles?"

The diagram is the same door, front and back.

"One inch rails and stiles with 1" inner panel will make a strong door for the exterior. For the interior doors you typed " 6/8" and 3/4." What did you mean to type?"

For exterior I want to use 2" for rails and 1" for panels. For interior I want to use 1 1/2" for rails and 3/4" for panels.

"Those will be very pretty and very expensive doors with $24 to $36 per board foot lumber."

I live in Costa Rica. I'm buying Teak at 1500 Colons per inch (1"x1"x11'). 1500 colons = $2.75

Thanks for the confirmation on the design. Will send pic when done.


----------



## Tropic Home (Oct 12, 2007)

*Which Glue?*

Is Tite Bond or Tite Bond II the recommended glue for the over lap joint? Gorilla Glue?


----------



## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

so...let me get this right...when you get taxed in costa rica its a colonectomy?

I know I wasnt the only one thinkin it!


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

:laughing::laughing::laughing:
Tropic, 
Sorry, still laughing at the last post. I like titebond III. I haven't had any problems with it and it is supposed to be waterproof when dry. Could you post a picture of the teak you get in Costa Rica, preferably a smooth piece. I am just curious to see if it is the same variety we pay a fortune for. thanks,
Mike Hawkins


----------



## Tropic Home (Oct 12, 2007)

*Costa Rica Teak*

Here's a few pictures of the teak. You can get all heart wood at about twice the price $5/inch, but I like contrasting colors. The 8"x8" main posts are teak, the 4"x12" beam, 2"x8" joists, and 1"x5" flooring is Sura. The exposed 4"x4" and 2"x4" walls, 2"x6" rafters and t&g ceiling is all teak. I know it differs a bit from the Polynesian teak. Teak is not a native species here.


----------

