# Jig for ripping



## Patrick. (Jul 11, 2011)

Now that Im nearly done with my first project, Im starting to look at ideas for the next one. I will probably make some shop organization things and TS tools. I came across a plan for ripping that I havent seen anywhere else. 

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/tip-ride-the-rails-for-safer-ripping/


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Sometimes they just want to make things more difficult than they need to be.

I think this is one of those times. :smile:

Here is what I use...


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## Patrick. (Jul 11, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> Sometimes they just want to make things more difficult than they need to be.


Very true. I think most magazines run out of original material after about a dozen issues, then they just regurgitate old articles. "10 best gizmos you need!" becomes "8 must-have thingamabobs!" a year or two later.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I love how people can complicate, the most basic operation, on a table saw.
KISS


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mdntrdr said:


> Sometimes they just want to make things more difficult than they need to be.
> 
> I think this is one of those times. :smile:
> 
> Here is what I use...


+1. "Push jigs/shoes/sticks" keep your fingers out of the way and can keep the stock where it's supposed to be. Having a good ZCI plate makes the process safer, especially for narrow rips. Thin rips can come off the "waste side" if need be.












 







.


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

Wow. I have never seen anything like that. But I agree with the others. Talk about over engineering. Sheesh. Plus, now you have to lube both sides of your fence ! And what if the thing cocks just a little while pushing it forward? I say no way would I make or use something like that.


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

humm i normally just use a push stick and feather board.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Push stick and feather board here too. I've ripped 1/2 pieces on the fence side and 1/8 inch stuff on the waste side with no troubles.


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## 4skinz80 (Aug 16, 2011)

I have a push stick like mdntrdr... It's easy to make and easy to throw away when it's trashed.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you use one of these jigs, be sure to wear a cup!


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## Warnock (Apr 4, 2011)

Common sense ran out the door with this one. A push-stick and perhaps a zero tolerance plate, along with zero tolerance for not paying attention will go alot farther than this jig. And I am still learning. Just my two cents worth.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

The most important things in my opinion, are a sharp blade, and a properly aligned fence.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

The problem is that the picture is inappropriate. The picture may lead an inexperienced woodworker into unsafe practices.

Bear with me...

If you are going to rip a narrow piece off of a wider board it is much safer to let the narrow piece be the off fall. If you have a lot of narrow pieces to cut then a jig like the Rockler one is your best choice.

If you are ripping a 1 5/8 piece into two 3/4 pieces, the push stick as shown is appropriate.

Finally, when using a push stick during a ripping operation, it is much safer (and a more accurate cut) to use the push stick as close as possible to the blade. With the push stick close to the blade the stock is more likely to remain in contact with the fence preventing a kick back.

BTW - It is perfectly acceptable to have your push stick be cut by the blade. It's really easy to make another push stick.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

rrich said:


> BTW - It is perfectly acceptable to have your push stick be cut by the blade. It's really easy to make another push stick.


Acceptable, if the push stick/block is flat on the table. If not flat on the table, the push stick is likely to kick back. Been there, done that!


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I spray some red paint on my push sticks. Makes them easy to spot, and reminds me of the possibility of blood, if not used with care!


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## b00kemdano (Feb 10, 2009)

As you can plainly see on Scott's pushstick, they _will_ get chewed up. You'll spend extra time and money making a fancy jig, only to have it get chewed up anyway. Also, if something did go awry, it looks like it'd be difficult to pull your hand back with that pushthing without letting go of it - which could turn it into a projectile!

Just cut a notch in some scrap!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*thin rips on the table saw*

There are Jigs, Push Blocks and other devices for this operation.
Some use a bump stop on the left of the blade like Rockler, some use a guide that hangs on the fence like you show. This video solves a common issue and separates the off fall from the stock.


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

CEDAR
I use push sticks,( usually one in each hand) made of cedar and about 15-18 inches long with quickly rounded edges.
They are so light that if they touch the blade they get cut without impacting my hands etc. The ends are quickly reshaped on the bandsaw and they go into the kindling bin when short.
I used to use commercial ones but hat a few uncomfortable experiences when they sooner or later touch the blade. 
On thin stock ripping it is OK to just push the cedar stick thru and let it get nicked. One stick to push and one to hold against the fence to help any feathers being used.
I do use combinations of feathers for repetitive ripping.


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