# Making some new gates



## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

So I have two to build. The originals were made from what appears to be treated pine, probably SYP and are falling apart. I have no idea how old they are but looking at the shrubbery around it they're not that old so..I'm planning to use cypress because it's a lot more weather resistant. The problem is the thickest pieces I have are just over 3/4" x 6" material.
I'm considering one of two options.
1 Laminate 2 pieces together to make 1 1/2" thick (originals are 1 1/2) or planing them down to 1/2" and triple the lamination.
I have plenty of cypress available so that's not an issue.
Anyway, I considered using mortise and tenons for the joinery, but kind of tough to bore through the laminations so I'm considering a sandwich of 3 -1/2" pieces overlapping each other and driving in dowels on the corner joints between the laminations..
Also there is no middle cross support and the top arch is bolted down from the top so I am going to add the middle cross piece for more support.
Another reason I'm not too big on the idea of M&T is cypress tends to want to split easily which is why the sandwich idea seems to be the better option. Any suggestions or other ideas?
By the way, they're now painted and the customer plans to paint them again so lucky me, I get to cover any obvious surface screwups..


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you laminate 3/4" material to make 1 1/2" you will create more problems than you have now. Wood expands and contracts at different rates and the two pieces will be pulling at the joint and between that and the weather will start delaminating. Treated wood resists being glued more than untreated wood. You can get 2x6 thru 2x12 treated wood to fit the sizes you need. 

Structurally the door shown in the picture is only being held together by the bottom rail. The top rail with the opening is doing very little. I would recommend putting a second rail below where the opening is to make it stronger and less likely to sag. The wood panel in the middle will need to float loose like any other door so it can expand and contract at will.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

We are wanting to box in the yard. We are boxed in on three sides with neighbor fences on three sides. I have an interest in this as I wanted to do a Mr. Miyagi gate/ fence for awhile...


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i wouldn't think of making a gate of that nature without m&t joinery. i am sure if you search for gate styles and plans you will find something you can live with.

if you glue up a 3 ply laminate, you can "design in" the mortise in the middle layer, so you don't have to cut it out. same for the tenon, it can be left long as the middle layer of the mating tenon.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

You said:
I'm considering one of two options.
1 Laminate 2 pieces together to make 1 1/2" thick (originals are 1 1/2) or planing them down to 1/2" and triple the lamination.
I have plenty of cypress available so that's not an issue.
Anyway, I considered using mortise and tenons for the joinery, but kind of tough to bore through the laminations so I'm considering a sandwich of 3 -1/2" pieces overlapping each other and driving in dowels on the corner joints between the laminations..

If you make the stiles and rails from 3 separate pieces, you can "build in" the mortises and tenons.
This You Tube is the only source I can find on how it would be done:





I have a mock up that I made up in the shop someplace, but the concept is very simple.








Mission Headboard Build


I decided to make just a headboard, no rails or footboard to match the Mission furniture in my room. I selected the best quartersawn Oak I had on hand, let it acclimate to the shop for a week or so, and started in straightlining it with my shop built jig. It works very well ... almost...




www.woodworkingtalk.com




The tenon is made by running the center board "long".
The mortise is made by leaving a space in the center, between the two outer boards the width of the tenon, OR as shown on the end shown here:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You can easily do a half lap...


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

The sandwich is basically the same idea, making a bridle joint with 1/2" without digging out the center or a simple half lap with 3/4.
As far glueing this isn't treated material at all. It's plain cypress and it holds glue really well..even on end grain. I had to knock a few drawers apart (end grain) and ended up having to remake them from scratch since the glue wouldn't let go anywhere..everything on the end grain just shattered knocking them apart.. Pretty good holding power..


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i see, the sandwhich idea was what bill and i were trying to say also. 

m&t is so strong, most doors of yesteryear were made using this process. any other joinery, used outside is almost certain to fail over time and leave you with the dreaded "sagging gate"


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I'm wondering if I put pieces with knots, even open knots in the middle layer will hurt anything as long as they're not on or too close to the edges.. I'm buying this cypress dirt cheap, about $2.20 for a 48" 1x6. I just stopped by the local woodworking store where I bought the saw and the same material there is around $5.50 per BF although I have to admit I'm not exactly getting top choice boards at this price..lots of splitting and some bowing and occasionally cupping ,but I can usually reglue the splits and plane out the cupping.. 
I can't beat the price of these boards with a...board.. If I had the space and the money I'd buy it by the full pallet for even less. 
One thing I do appreciate about these guys is I have a pretty decent relationship with them. They know what I'm looking for and will throw people out for picking through every board leaving just junk.. A lot of them will try to dig out the "one special piece" and leave a mess. I'll take most anything that isn't too bowed or 90% knots. For a bit over 2 bucks I can afford to not be too picky..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Something to note on the originals there is no middle rail so I'm definitely adding that, but also the panel part is just free floating held in with what appears to be some channel steel, but I've since found out is wood the builder cut with probably a wide dado, about 3/4". I'm considering incorporating the panel as another middle layer as well with the ends also glued between two outer layers or perhaps they should be free floating as well to allow for expansion.. Cut a bit short of the middle of the ends of the middle and bottom rails.. To be a bit more specific, make the center layers of the two rails maybe an inch narrower and slide the panel pieces inside so they can't work their way loose and the integrity of the joints stay intact with the dowels holding it all together. Keeping the whole thing squared up oughta be fun. I suppose I really need to clear off the workbench and maybe even add a dropdown piece to go where the side apron(s) are. The bench is 32" wide. The gates are at least 43 wide.
They sell some steel drop down folding brackets @ HD that would fit just about right on the bench aprons and I have a nice long 2x12 the old woman has been on me forever to get up off the floor of the shop forever now..lol <-- my "forever redundancy".. One can never have too many forevers..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

The brackets I bought to add width to my bench..
They're 16", but I suppose I could flip them around and mount the "shelf part" to the shorter side even though the release lever would be on the apron.. I dunno.. It's 11" instead.. Apron is 10".. I have enough lumber for the entire 16" and then some..
I'm leaning towards the long end being the shelf, plane the 2x so it's good and flat, trim up the sides and use the entire 16". I can always remove it if I don't need it there all the time..
I'm still considering putting the saw on blocks to raise it up 3" to use the bench as the outfeed again like my old saw and with the added 16" I can cut full sheets without help holding the cut off pieces.. Seems like a win/win.. I'm kind of tall anyway and the saw starts to hurt my back after awhile anyway..plus I won't be so tempted to lean across the saw as much as I am now.. I know..don't do it..,but I have long arms..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

That was fun taking 1/4" off two 60" 2x10s..(I thought they were 12's) in 90° high humidity heat with the planer.. Getting a wee bit too old for this kind of foolishness.. I'll have the bench setup for the whole width of both gates to make this easier to do.. I feel I've earned my hour in the shower..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

It ain't perfect, but it'll work for now. I need to climb under it with better lighting and straighten things up, but it gives me plenty of working space.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

looks great! 

we are expecting BIG things out of you now!!!!


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

TimPa said:


> looks great!
> 
> we are expecting BIG things out of you now!!!!


Ha! Don't expect too much.. I'm kind of stuck on how I'm going to attache the arch. I suppose I should laminate it along with the rest and cut the arch with a jigsaw. I thought about the bandsaw and pound it in from the top, but I don't like the idea and definitely can't hold on to a 5 foot tall and almost 4 foot wide gate to cut an arch free hand with the bandsaw.. My arms aren't that strong or long.. lol


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

Is the arch a circular arc? Use a router to cut it?


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Just like any other type of large door, this gate is screaming for pinned mortise and tenons (definitely pinned!). The three layer method WNT refers to is a very efficient, simple way to produce very large tenons. A shoulder will add strength.

The other issue is panel boards. Dado on verticals need to be deep enough to allow for at least 1/2” of movement, or spacer between boards. T&G woukd be a good way to go.

Laminate 3 boards to give a 1 7/8 to 2” thick door. There won’t be a problem with laminating like species and MC.

There is a good demo on scribing an arc (part of a circle)


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

One of the issues I need to work out is drilling out the holes for dowel pins. I can use a hand drill, but with forstner bits that's a bit difficult. It's always slow going. I have a bunch of new brad point bits..I have been thinking about setting large blocks under everything and use the drill press, but I think the brad points are the way to go.. 
I'm really close to glue up, but I'm a tad nervous about it. I think I'll wait till every board is cut to fit before glueing anything.. lol I can trim small pieces sticking out later..


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Just use a scrap block behind the drilling. Make sure your on a level bench when glueing up...

Are there no pictures of progess?


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## kiwi_outdoors (Jan 15, 2020)

all our new property line gates are wood over a welded steel frame made from sq tube. No sag, no warp - ever. Two mangates, and two wide gates for the driveway.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

About t&g for the panel boards.. I'm not really setup for doing it with a router just because I lack the proper bits and I'm running low on space to dig out the table for it anyway, but I can do them with the table saw.. They don't have to be real tight fitting do they? I just need to be able to slide the tongue into the groove and the tops and bottoms of the panel needs to fit between the two bottom rails during glueup.. I just want them to float free in there for expansion purposes since it will be out in all kinds of rain, etc...


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Progress? What is this progress you speak of? LOL


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I realized awhile back that I'll have to stagger the stiles since the longest board I have is about 48 1/4. The overall height is close to 70. The longest stile, well, all the stiles will be about 63".
I don't want any two outer layers of the stiles to meet at the same place except for the top and bottom of course. I'd prefer the middle layer to also be staggered as well and I ain't exactly a mathematical genius..lol I'm getting a constant pause to think about it and draw different layouts.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

allpurpose said:


> One of the issues I need to work out is drilling out the holes for dowel pins. I can use a hand drill, but with forstner bits that's a bit difficult. It's always slow going. I have a bunch of new brad point bits..I have been thinking about setting large blocks under everything and use the drill press, but I think the brad points are the way to go..


I've lost track of which kind of dowels you doing, I'd use brad points with either a doweling guide or for pins a 90 degree guide, could be just a block of wood you drilled on the press.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

allpurpose said:


> I realized awhile back that I'll have to stagger the stiles since the longest board I have is about 48 1/4. The overall height is close to 70. The longest stile, well, all the stiles will be about 63".
> I don't want any two outer layers of the stiles to meet at the same place except for the top and bottom of course. I'd prefer the middle layer to also be staggered as well and I ain't exactly a mathematical genius..lol I'm getting a constant pause to think about it and draw different layouts.


Just lay the boards out "dry" before gluing them to see what the stagger will look like. Keep them in order by cutting them to length as you go and label them. 
Right bottom, right center, right top or RB, RC and RT


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

Steve Neul said:


> If you laminate 3/4" material to make 1 1/2" you will create more problems than you have now. Wood expands and contracts at different rates and the two pieces will be pulling at the joint and between that and the weather will start delaminating. Treated wood resists being glued more than untreated wood. You can get 2x6 thru 2x12 treated wood to fit the sizes you need.
> 
> Structurally the door shown in the picture is only being held together by the bottom rail. The top rail with the opening is doing very little. I would recommend putting a second rail below where the opening is to make it stronger and less likely to sag. The wood panel in the middle will need to float loose like any other door so it can expand and contract at will.


I agree with Steve with one addition. I would run the right and left stiles to the top and join the top rail, rather than have the top rail sit on top. I would use M&T joints, likely loose tenons and use epoxy as the adhesive.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

B Coll said:


> I agree with Steve with one addition. I would run the right and left stiles to the top and join the top rail, rather than have the top rail sit on top. I would use M&T joints, likely loose tenons and use epoxy as the adhesive.


Getting kind of late in the game for 1 1/2" material since I've already planed down enough 1/2" material to laminate together. Epoxy adhesive sounds good, but it's also messy as hell. The picture below is the plan. 3 layers overlapping each other. In the picture they're staggered just for effect. They'll be squared up before glueup.with 3-4 1 1/2" long dowels on each joint. The top or arch I'd planned to also do in three layers attached to the top stiles the same as the others then cut the arch out of an extended top rail, basically an 8" rail with all the arch pieces overlapping as well. There's really no limit to how many dowels i can use to help hold the layers together..I'm not going to use 1000 or something ridiculous, but a few extra dowels between layers isn't going to hurt help keep things from delaminating.. I suppose I could get really ambitious and put wedges in the ends of all the dowels to make damned sure they're not going to come loose..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Probably doesn't look like much got done, but I did work out the math (blah!) and where the staggered pieces go. I had a buttload of wet grass to get cut down and raked before it got unbearably hot and humid followed by about 6 hours of feeling like I was gonna die! Too old for this nonsense..especially during heavy rains and intermittent sunshine..

One part that particularly has me a bit nervous is the glueup and keeping it all square along the way, but I've done enough glueups i think I'll make it.. I have more than enough cabinet door rails leftover from another job to prop everything up a few inches to get clamps up under everything. Knot holes are going in the inner layers with the clean boards on the outside..
Not too bad measuring corner to corner it's within 1/16th inch. I can live with that.. It's a lot brighter in here than it looks.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Everything is square and corner to corner is dead on. Now it's a matter of glueup. I'm going to number every piece so I know exactly where it goes with a corresponding chart I drew and numbered. I'm thinking it probably won't hurt to pin the bottom and middle layers once I know they're square with a few brads so it doesn't shift if I bump anything along the way.
Man! I might as well change my name to Nervous Nelly by the time I'm done with the first gate.. Second one will be a piece of cake 🎂..
Edit: No idea why, but I'm sitting here just staring at it right before glueup trying to think of anything that can go wrong and I'm absolutely convinced that whatever it is is completely escaping me.. 
I know! Time for a cup of coffee and a few minutes, maybe hours away from this.. It's ONLY 95° and the sun is creeping in the garage door soon to turn it into a living heck!


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Oh boy..I f'ed up.. I hope it's fixable.. The piece sticking out is the top of one of the stiles.. I didn't notice until the glue was already set.. The door frame sets away from the door itself quite a bit so maybe I can trim a 1/4" off one side. I have plenty of room for adjustment..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

So much for the brilliant idea of brad nails to hold boards in place to do the glueup..Kind of tough to get glue between two boards already nailed together.. DUH! LOL Well..it was a thought..a stupid thought, but a thought..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Upon further inspection this morning I got away with murder! Everything is still nice and square even corner to corner.. Don't tell the woodworking prosecutor..


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

> If you laminate 3/4" material to make 1 1/2" you will create more problems than you have now. Wood expands and contracts at different rates and the two pieces will be pulling at the joint and between that and the weather will start delaminating.


Maybe on a wide table, top but not a 6” board. The miniscule differences in movement could never make a glue joint fail. He’s using like species with similar MC.

That said, on something wide, I probably wouldn’t mix quarter sawn and flat sawn, and use a glue that doesn’t dry to a hard line.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I'm a happy man. The panel boards fit exactly..No wide corners at all. I was sure I was going to have to trim to fit or plane off edges.. Now it's glueup the top layer, flip it around and do the fun part..The dreaded arch..and then the window grid pieces. Yeah, I know the shop is an unholy mess. So it's not a temple of cleanliness.. Sue me.. lol


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

DrRobert said:


> Maybe on a wide table, top but not a 6” board. The miniscule differences in movement could never make a glue joint fail. He’s using like species with similar MC.
> 
> That said, on something wide, I probably wouldn’t mix quarter sawn and flat sawn, and use a glue that doesn’t dry to a hard line.


I've glued endgrain to endgrain of this stuff before and had to break it apart with a hammer and the pieces shattered, but the butt joint didn't fail. I was astonished at that. This is cross grained, 4 1/2"x 5" sections glued then pegged later. If it delaminates Titebond and me are going around and around about that.. I left about an 1/8" gap between the panel boards all total and they're completely free floating between the two outer layers.. We'll see, but I feel pretty good about it. I've made planter boxes with the same glue and they're full of dirt and water year around on the back porch and not one has failed in over 5 years yet..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Oh boy, fun turning the gate around..Space is too limited on the other end of the bench at this time without major house cleaning. I'm going to have to find a helper to get the thing out the door someday soon. The stile on one side is still off by about 1/4" at the top, but I don't think that'll make a big difference with the swing of the gate since the hinges are just over sized hook and eye that are just screwed in to the sides of the old gate and I'm pretty sure can be adjusted in and out by the 1/4".. that makes installation a whole lot easier, just lift and drop in place.. Still going to need help because I'm an old man and doubt that I have enough ass to hold 43+ inches wide directly in front of me and lift 100 pounds on my own .. Fun getting old ain't it? I might get away with a hand truck doing it..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Darn.. Top most rail, also the outer layer of the arch is 1/8-3/16" too wide. The stile is already glued down and not going anywhere..I'm kind of split between a spreader bar that I don't happen to have handy, cutting off the 1/8" or planing down the 8th.. I think I'll just trim it off and quit with the foolishness. 

AHHH! Perfect friction fit the first time..that'll never happen again.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You'll be hanging that gate before long..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

This gate is taking me forever, but the second gate will go MUCH faster... I hope.. I'll have already done it..
Here's my dilemma here.. I want to glue all the panel boards together, but not before I drop them in place . In other words, drop them in one by one and glue each beside the other and have a way to wedge them to clamp down the glue, but I only have about 1/16" gap to push a wedge in. I'm thinking I need a slightly wider gap...maybe 1/8"? ALSO..I don't want the wedge to get stuck and I don't want to tear up a corner in the process..Any ideas? If I tried to lay the entire panel in at once all glued up it'd never fit back in. As is each one is 4 1/4" x 8 = 34" How much room am I going to need for expansion? 1/8? 1/4"? I dunno.. I'm flying blind here. Lol It's gonna be outside in the rain.. 
By the way..The wedge..gonna have to cut a board at an angle and leave enough of it to be able to pull it out when I'm done..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Thought of a one use tool like this, but I think it'll break off.








Or something like these..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

By the way..The middle rail at the top of the panels still isn't complete so I can still lift out the panel boards. Once it's in place all bets are off..It's permanent..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I think this will work. A gap just under 3/16?
Slight twist in the 2nd board, but it's finger tight kind of twist.. Not a problem..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Seems to be working.. Hopefully 3/16" is a sufficient gap for expansion. They're all glued together, still free floating. Nextis to finish up the arch and the window grid, call my customer and hopefully hang it although she does want a good coat of primer on it I think..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I was just making the last cut (jigsaw) on the last bit of the lower part of the arch.. I had glued up a small piece to that piece previously, but the glue joint failed at the last 4 inches of cutting all 34".. Dammit! Oh well..I needed a break. I've been at it since around 7am..almost 3:30 now..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Woohoo! Window is done. Now it's time for the final glueup and cut the top off the arch and it's done...sorta.. Tenon and mortises are a bit sloppy, but oh well a touch of caulking and it'll look like a million tubes of caulk..lol The underside of the arch was no fun I had to cut the top layer separately to fit in the window grid. I cut out 6 notches with the router. The pieces of the grid are the only pieces that are over 1/2" thick at 3/4"..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

And it's all glued up. Arch is cut and sanded. Just waiting for the last of the glue to setup and dry and then it's off to the dowels, plane the sides down a bit and go hang it..IF I can get it out the door and onto the van and tied down..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Well..before dowels..but my phone for some reason is stalling on uploads.. Maybe later, but the door/gate is built..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Evidently I needed to be closer to the router..anyways..I completed gate..before dowels..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Epoxy fun.. I flipped the gate over and the top most board of the arch left about 1/16" gap I filled with epoxy and sawdust..Devcon 5 minute stuff.. I got it all filled, but just barely before it setup..I thought fo sho I was gonna have to mix another batch, but here ya go.. It'll of course need sanded clean..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

And..finally getting the dowels in and planed smooth. I was going to do 3-4 on each joint, but I think 2 will be more than enough..
Oops..I started cutting off the dowels just a hair too low..


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

allpurpose said:


> Woohoo! Window is done. Now it's time for the final glueup and cut the top off the arch and it's done...sorta.. Tenon and mortises are a bit sloppy, but oh well a touch of caulking and it'll look like a million tubes of caulk..lol The underside of the arch was no fun I had to cut the top layer separately to fit in the window grid. I cut out 6 notches with the router. The pieces of the grid are the only pieces that are over 1/2" thick at 3/4"..
> View attachment 430177



Is that lighter on the gate just in case?lol


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

allpurpose said:


> And..finally getting the dowels in and planed smooth. I was going to do 3-4 on each joint, but I think 2 will be more than enough..
> Oops..I started cutting off the dowels just a hair too low..
> View attachment 430222


Did you use a plug cutter?


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Rebelwork said:


> Did you use a plug cutter?


No..oak dowel rod..goes all the way through nice and tight all around..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Rebelwork said:


> Is that lighter on the gate just in case?lol


Yup..just in case she decided to not pay me for it..I'll install it then burn it. . lol


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

And the final touch..the window stool on both sides angled to 10° meet right in the middle.. Nice flush fit.. I'll probably keep the clamps instead of leaving them on forever.. These are going to stay on all night tonight..I don't want any part of the stool to wiggle loose overnight..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Now I know that I can make deluxe gates.. I might even advertise this around millionaire acres here in town..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

All done with a good coating of BLO just to help protect it until she gets around to painting it.. 
That front board there had no grain pattern so it kind of sticks out like a sore thumb from this angle.. Oh well..paint won't care.. lol


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

maybe you should change your avatar to "Gate Man" !!!

it looks great! How many hours and dollars do you think you have into it?


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Not much in cost..boards were just 2.20 each and a buttload of glue. I emptied out an entire 16 oz bottle and a bit more, but pretty much 2 weeks work with several breaks along the way for my old self and the day I thought I had a heart attack.. I think most of the time was sitting there planning and figuring out what went where. The next one should take less than a week ..
I take it back..little over a week to plane them all again.. That's fun standing there planing 30 4/4s down to 2/4.. Maybe I ought to do 3/8 each except for the planer doesn't have a 3/8 stop to it..
Skip that last part..my brain was thinking something dumb.. I don't need 4 layers..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Someone suggested I drill weep holes in the bottom of the gate to let water drain..Good idea so I bought a long 1/8" bit and that was fun drilling 4 1/2" across the middle board three times, but it's done.. Delivery is tomorrow!


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

And it's up and customer very happy..


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Turned out nice...


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Thanks and it was a whole lot lighter than I imagined it would be. I thought the darn thing would be 100+ pounds..Not even close..more like 40. I didn't actually need help with lifting it, but I did get help anyway. Dropping it on the hinges wasn't easy though even with help..Go figure, huh?


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## Swedish Carpenter (Aug 6, 2021)

I repaired a deck last summer that was rotting everywhere. That is a whole story in it own on how another contractor cheated his way. Part of the repair was this rotting entry gate shown still hanging in place. it consisted of 1x on each side with car siding in between. I remade the gate from solid timber. All the joints are coped on my shaper, then i installed (2) 1/2" dowels thru each joint. I used Titebond Three for glue. The gate was for paint so I cualked all the places with small gaps between the carsiding and timber, to keep the rain and snow out.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Nice job as well.. I didn't have the luxury of solid timber other than the junk sold around these parts, almost none of it sufficiently dry anyway..3 layers of cypress hopefully does the trick to last..


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