# replacing an exterior door frame



## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

A few years ago, I replaced my front door but used the existing frame. Now I need to replace the frame as well because the door has started sagging and stripping all the screws out.

I know how to replace an existing door pre-hung but I'm not sure the best way to go about taking out the existing frame (not just the jamb but the whole frame) and replacing it. 

I was thinking I'd take the door down and build a frame around the door before removing the old frame. That way I can treat the door as a pre-hung door when it comes to installing the whole thing. I'm mostly concerned about how to remove the old framing without tearing up the entire wall of my foyer.

Anyone have any suggestions?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

What is the wall structure?










 







.


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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

Sounds like you're talking about the door jamb and they're pretty much like interior doors. The biggest difference is that exterior door jambs are often thicker and have built it thresholds.

Remove the inside casing (trim) so you can see the jambs, and how they're attached to the framing. The hinge side jamb is probably nailed/screwed directly to the framing with just enough shims to get it plumb. The head and latch jambs will probably have shims to get them level (head jamb) and plumb (latch jamb).

Removing the outside casing/trim should give you room to run a sawzall around the jambs to cut it free. Once it's out, just install a new jamb set, rehang the door, and reinstall the casing.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Thanks for the suggestions Dave. I was just looking at the door thinking that removing the interior trim would be the best way to start.

C'man, the interior is standard drywall with a brick exterior. I'm trying to see if Home Depot or Lowes sell pre-fab door frames/jambs without the doors. If not, I'll just have to build one.


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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

You might be able to get the exterior molding off with a small flat bar and some gentle persuasion. If you do mess it up, any lumber yard should have the exterior molding. You'll want the brick molding - not the stucco molding.

Note:
When you remove the old door jamb, make sure you have a plan to close the opening if you can't finish that day. No, you may NOT ask me why I suggest that. - lol


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

You can get a knock down jamb from any box store and most lumber yards.


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## Pop Pop (Jul 17, 2011)

Do you really need to replace it? I have had success with removing the buts from the jamb, drilling oversized holes where the screws enter the jamb, gluing dowels (TB3) in the holes, and reinstalling the buts using longer screws of the same size. If you can get the dowels through the jamb into the studs and the screws in turn into the stud it should hold quite well.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Good advice all above*

I would seriously doubt the need to replace the jack studs (those are the one's supporting the header over the door) because it's a big job and will require drywall removal, replacement and repair and the likelyhood that the existing screw holes can't be filled and repaired as suggested is remote.

http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/framing_a_door.html

You always use some longer deck screws that will reach into the king stud in back of the jack if that's the case. The brick mold comes off the out side, the trim comes off the inside and you sazall the nails or use a claw to pull them out. That frees up the jambs and everything should just push out. Have a piece of ply ready to screw on the inside to keep the critter and others out as suggested.

Whether you can easily get a pre-hung jamb minus the door will take some research. A full size exterior door will usually be a 36" and the Rough Opening will be about 37" or so. I make mine within 1/4" because I like a closer fit and I don't use interior trim. yep, that's right just a jamb sticking into the room...that's it. :blink: bill


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Pop Pop said:


> Do you really need to replace it? I have had success with removing the buts from the jamb, drilling oversized holes where the screws enter the jamb, gluing dowels (TB3) in the holes, and reinstalling the buts using longer screws of the same size. If you can get the dowels through the jamb into the studs and the screws in turn into the stud it should hold quite well.


Been there, done that. It's time to replace... thanks for the suggestion though.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I replaced a 36" door with a 42" a few years back*

So I had to completely open up the opening and remove the studs, and header. I had to make an new longer header and replace the studs on both sides. 
Without knowing a bit more about your specific situation, I'm wondering if you can just remove and replace the jack studs without getting into a bigger project....removing drywall etc.
A few cuts on the jack stud, about in 3rds, but not into the king stud would allow you to pry out the 3 sections of jack. The header should stay in place and can be braced...just do one side at a time. You may have to grind off any protruding nails using a die grinder, or Dremel ...about 1/2 way through and they just bend off and break cleanly.
The rest of the project should be relatively easy once you have new studs and plumb them. A framing nail gun would speed things up if you have one. 

If /when you open the door opening take some photos to show the details.  bill


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