# painting oak, fill in grain



## Tom Raterman (Dec 21, 2012)

I have some previously stained and clear poly coated oak cabinets. We want to paint them white but do not want the grain to show thru. Any suggestions on grain fillers? 

Ratdog


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## nblasa (Nov 29, 2011)

If you use a quality paint this may not be a problem. You'll probably need to do at least two coats, though. Wait for the other guys to weigh in before you do anything


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If it were me I would clean the cabinets with Krud Kutter Gloss Off available at Sherwin Williams and scuff sand the finish. Then I would apply as many coats of Kilz Original oil based primer sanding between coats to level the finish. Then the cabinets can be topcoated with either latex trim paint or oil based enamel.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

nblasa said:


> If you use a quality paint this may not be a problem. You'll probably need to do at least two coats, though. Wait for the other guys to weigh in before you do anything


Gonna need way more than 2 coats. You will need a grain filler.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Leo G said:


> Gonna need way more than 2 coats. You will need a grain filler.


I agree. Depending on the grain filler, it may not stick too well on an oil base polyurethane finish. Stripping may be in order.









 







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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

Kilz and sand between coat works but it will take more than two coats. On the plus side they will be white and smooth. I did some book cases and the finger joints in the trim showed through. All I would say is when you think it is level do another coat. You inevitably miss some spots and the gloss paint will show it to you fast. 

I assume filling the grain will be time well spent. I have not done it but the other way took many coats.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I think a lot of it has to do with just how much finish is on the cabinets now. A good way to fill grain is to level it out with finish. On oak, this is a little too much work but if the existing finish is thick enough you might be able to sand it back to where it's smooth...then top coat it with a good primer (for me, that would be Zinnser BIN) and paint with an appropriate paint. Even if you do it completely smooth, it may still be enough where only a few coats of something may be enough to fill it.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Bin is very thin and has no build power. You need something that is high build.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

You are correct, my suggestion of using BIN would be if the finish sands out smooth first, and then no further build is needed. If it doesn't sand out smooth then it's back to square one.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Bin is a great isolation coat though. You could sand out the old, apply bin, and then another high build primer. That way you could be sure that you get good adhesion on all. Last thing you need to do is to do all that finishing and have the paint peel off a year later.


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## Futurepast (Jun 18, 2012)

Auto Glazing Putty works for me. It squeegees on thin, sands well, and is a base for paint. It is also a lot easier to work with than most wood fillers. It comes in a tube like toothpaste, and is about the same consistancy


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