# can I do this with a Miter saw



## chassc (Jun 18, 2010)

First off I am a novice wood worker. I am making a dock ladder 12 ' in heigth). Rather than making it the usual way with 2X4 vertical sides and bolting 2X4 steps on to the frame ( whereby your step is 1.5 " wide). I plan to cut 1.5 inch deep notches in the frame and fit the 2X4 steps into the notches so I will have steps with a 3" width.
My plan is to stack the two frames so that I cut both notches at the same time. Can I cut the notches with the compound miter saw. My saw has a sliding fence that I can move out to position the wood correctly.
I tried my old router on a scrap piece of 2X4 and it would take forever to cut the notches.
Thanks


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## Just-a-Guy (Apr 13, 2010)

chassc said:


> First off I am a novice wood worker. I am making a dock ladder 12 ' in heigth). Rather than making it the usual way with 2X4 vertical sides and bolting 2X4 steps on to the frame ( whereby your step is 1.5 " wide). I plan to cut 1.5 inch deep notches in the frame and fit the 2X4 steps into the notches so I will have steps with a 3" width.
> My plan is to stack the two frames so that I cut both notches at the same time. Can I cut the notches with the compound miter saw. My saw has a sliding fence that I can move out to position the wood correctly.
> I tried my old router on a scrap piece of 2X4 and it would take forever to cut the notches.
> Thanks


 
I think it will take forever on a miter saw, as well (assuming you have a sliding miter saw with a height stop, otherwise you can't do it at all). It doesn't sound like a great idea to me. I'd just nail the steps on the outside. Will be stronger that way. It's just a ladder....


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## Av8rTx (Mar 10, 2009)

You might be able to do it with a circular saw and chisel, if I am visualizing it correctly.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

You don't say what brand of SCMS that you have. On my DeWalt 708 there is a lever / finger screw / wing nut deal on the right side toward the front of the chop hinge. If you flip this lever forward the finger screw can be adjusted to control the depth of cut. I use this for making specific depth cuts.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

I think a radial arm saw would be safer and easier to use in this case. You can more easily line your two side rails together to make both dados at the same time. I think adjusting depth of cut would be easier too.


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

First off, welcome to the forum! You can do what you plan if, as stated, you have a depth stop on your saw and if it is a sliding miter saw. Just make a series of kerf cuts and then clean it out with a sharp chisel. If you don't have a sliding compound miter saw, then plan B would be the circular saw making those kerf cuts and then the chisel.


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## chassc (Jun 18, 2010)

*thanks*

Thanks for the advice. Glad I found this forum, I probably would have hurt or broke something. Going to do the radial saw and chisel route.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

If you don't have a TS with a dado set I'd make a jig for the router and clamp it to the doubled up 2Xs then rout both at the same time.

A 5/8 straight 5/8 deep would do it in 3 passes and a 3/4 bit in 2. No need to move the stock each pass like you'd be doing with the RAS or DCSM, (1/8X 12 to 13 passes = 1-1/2 to 1-5/8)


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