# Wooden drinking vessels for hot liquids



## devonplett (Nov 8, 2014)

I'm trying to make some simple wooden coffee mugs and I'm running into issues finding a food safe finish. Does any one know a type of finish that would be food safe and withstand higher temperatures?? If you know of where I can get it that would be extremely helpful! 

Here's a photo of one.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

No finish is going to hold up to repeated use with a hot beverage. You can do it with an marine grade spar varnish but you have to expect to have to refinish it from time to time. What most folks do is make the wood to fit over a plastic or glass container and glue the container in with some epoxy. The outside of it isn't so much of a problem. The finish should stay on the outside.


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## devonplett (Nov 8, 2014)

Steve, there are some finishes that would work oil based Polly urethane is looking like it might be my best bet. However there is a good grade epoxy resin out there but I can not figure out what type it is.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The thing you have to consider with those finishes is they dry hard and brittle where a spar is formulated to be more elastic just for the purposes of the exterior use with temperature extremes because the wood swells and shrinks. I don't have any personal experience with finishing mugs. Everything I've read from the folks that do this regularly is it doesn't work very well to put a film finish on them.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I also wouldn't want to drink anything out of a mug finished with spar....or any of the current film finishes really. 

Have you considered making mugs using a stainless insert?


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## devonplett (Nov 8, 2014)

I just got an answer beeswax and food safe mineral oil!


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Both of which will leach out into hot liquids.


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

ryan50hrl said:


> Both of which will leach out into hot liquids.


I sell a lot of cutting boards. On a hot day at the Farmers Market I have to keep wiping the cutting boards as the mineral oil finish comes to the surface. No problems on a cool day so I have to agree with you.
Tom


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

And you don't pour 180 degree coffee on your cutting boards....


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

With the number of turners out there I am sure a few of them would be making them if it was feasible. There is often a good reason certain items are not out there on the market.


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## devonplett (Nov 8, 2014)

I know of one dude who makes them and finishes them with bees wax and mineral oil so I will give it a try and let you guys know how bad the leaching is. I agree there's definitely some sorta catch when it comes to making wooden mugs.


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## COBOB (May 23, 2012)

You can dissolve Plexiglass (Acrylic) in Acetone, until it is a milk like consistency, then brush on the inside surface. When the Acetone flashes off you just have an Acrylic surface. It seems to be unaffected by hot coffee. I think that is as food safe as you can get.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

devonplett said:


> I just got an answer beeswax and food safe mineral oil!


Hot liquids would melt the beeswax. Beeswax is OK for cold liquids


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

COBOB said:


> You can dissolve Plexiglass (Acrylic) in Acetone, until it is a milk like consistency, then brush on the inside surface. When the Acetone flashes off you just have an Acrylic surface. It seems to be unaffected by hot coffee. I think that is as food safe as you can get.



How long does it take for the acetone to flash off?


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## COBOB (May 23, 2012)

rayking49 said:


> How long does it take for the acetone to flash off?


Around here, usually 3 or 4 hours. I normally leave it overnight.


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## EWerner (Oct 14, 2010)

There was a vendor at the Minnesota Renaissance festival that made and sold them. The one I bought lasted one year or so before cracking. Was nice while it lasted.


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

Just leave them unfinished. When they wear out, sell them a new one. Job security.


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## Hwood (Oct 21, 2011)

I would expect epoxy to hold up the best. Couple coats of a slow set so the first coat soaks in a bit but not so sure I would really want to drink out of it with hot coffee. I cant choke down coffee so it couldnt taste any worse :0 A true tung oil finish of sorts is what I would expect to be the best choice and I would choose one that is processed to set up faster otherwise it might take some time to cure and you would taste it, but your going to pay for that stuff. If you go with epoxy don't sand the cup to a polish, give the epoxy something to bite on. I have had good results when used for a flower vase but again not sure about hot foods and if it will eat your liver. There is a bit of a learning curve on using epoxy that takes 24hrs to set so a test run would be a good idea. CA could be another option but I would guess if the fumes didn't burn your eyes out the cured product might do ya in but I have no idea about its cured state. But a wax of any sort isn't going to do it. I think the hardest natural wax melts at 180 and that wont cut it, bees wax is not in the ball park. That and oil should make for some nice rainbow film on top of your coffee. Long story short check into a pure tung oil.


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