# nice day milling



## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Had fun in the shop today. The crotch slabs are small coffee table sized. Someone with more experience....should I wax the voids and splits? I am going to make some end tables out of 'em. So Im wondering about finishing issues if i wax the whole shebang.


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## weedsnager (Sep 21, 2011)

beautiful box elder, wish i could get my hands on some


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## truckjohn (Oct 31, 2011)

Very nice!

Question.. If you fill all the nooks and crannies with wax.... how will you get the wax back out?

Thanks for showing the pix.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Yeah that's what I was thinking. But I am concerned the crotch will split right in the middle. Especially since it has been given a head start with the rot and spalting.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

I've used a latex based clear that when continuing on and clearcoating the rest, remains in.
It's made by Rustoleum and comes in quarts at Home Depot.

I used it since I was coating end grain on log cuts and didn't need color seeping deep into the grain, to where I would have to recut it off by an inch or so.
In doing this, I can sand down the ends and give another coat of clear to match.

Can't say this is a well accepted method, but it worked for me.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Yeah Kev like I said in a previous thread you have to wax the whole thing even if you were going straight into the kiln with it. You can scrape it off when it's dry then plane the rest off. For cracks and voids you can use a high pressure washer. Be careful not to get too close with the washer, it can tear fibers apart.

The gold colored areas will split apart and collapse like the San Andreas fault if you don't get them sealed. 

















You don't have to seal the long grain on boards that have bright white wood with red streaks only, but those gold colored areas are full of water and will destroy themselves as they dry. Even by sealing them you'll still have some collapse but you can plane it out. 






.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Thanks Kev. I covered em yesterday with plastic so i could have some time to figure it out. I will wax em down after work today. I remember you saying that before but i guess in my mind i was thinking only turning stock. Got it. That makes sense.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Hey TT.
I've read were blank cutters (bowls etc,etc) will sometimes wrap in kraft paper, Tyvek, slow breathing papers etc,etc so they wouldn't have to wax etc to seal and deal with. Would that work here also????:yes::thumbdown::no::blink::shifty:

Have a Blessed day in Jesus's Love,
Tim


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Yeah I told him to wrap them in plastic til they were waxed, but for some reason whenever I've left them wrapped long term they mildew real bad - worse than wax. 







.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

*Not plastic !!!!*

NO, NO, NO NOT plastic... :gunsmilie:that's NOT breathable:thumbdown:. Kraft paper. Tyvek, other house wraps that are breathable:thumbsup:, they SLOW the moisture evaporation down considerablely but allows air to move slowly through and supposedly prevents the mold.

Plastic only (last resort)a few days at max. allows NO :no: air or moisture movement causing mold:thumbdown:.

Waxing....Looks like that would hurt when pulling OFF:laughing::laughing::icon_smile:. From my use of anchorseal it does allow air channels to form as drying on wood (gases escaping as anchorseal hardens) allowing some breathing. True waxing (hot) I've read about but don't understand how it prevents the molding unless it sears the external fibers but allowing some air movement for slow drying(same as gases escaping ).

Gotta go to work, Have a Blessed day in Jesus's Love:notworthy:,
Tim


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