# Frankenstein DC System Powermatic/Oneida/JET



## RepairmanJack (Aug 4, 2013)

An image drop error erased my long post, so I'll share a shorter post and these photos of my reworked dust collection setup. First-off, I know I lose some velocity with that 180 and 90 degree bend between the 5" SDD and Powermatic PM1300 but it was unavoidable without hacking the Powermatic. I considerd taking it apart and reworking it as they do for HFT collectors, but this is too nice of a machine for such a hack. I was very lucky to find it anyway.


















I've decided to try and route my 4" pipe across part of the ceiling (7' to the underside of the joists) and run some drops to areas that need permanent or temporary collection. The very first drop you see with the "dustrite" connector is the flex hose for clean-up on the south side of the shop, and it can be put on my 14" bandsaw, 6' jointer, or 13" planer.








Parking the Powermatic on top of that concrete block and under the rear stairwell made use of valuable space that was otherwise useless. The main stack for the house is right behind that 4x4 Fir post, so that's one reason the SDD is pointing back towards the PM1300 before it loops back.

This is the end of my shop where it narrows from 13' wide to 9' wide because of the main stack and that stairwell. This arrangement frees up floor space without costing me much.


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## RepairmanJack (Aug 4, 2013)

I'll mention that the ductwork is 27ga galvanized from Home De(s)pot. Research suggests that 6" is too big of a pipe for the gauge, but it's fine for 4" pipe. I'll have to keep an eye on the 6" section and find another solution if it starts collapsing - I might have some very old heavy-gauge 6" stuff leftover from a recent HVAC upgrade. 

Also, with the exception of the 90-degree bend right at the powermatic, I've been able to install all the flanges pointing backwards with the direction of the airflow. I have usually just reversed the pipe and fittings. In the case of the "Y" fittings, I've cut off the crimped part and then used an HVAC crimping tool to add crimps to the other end. Aluminum foil tape is used to seal all the fittings.


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## RepairmanJack (Aug 4, 2013)

The Jet's top hole was 5" so I created a small chute so I wouldn't have dust collecting on the rim. The SDD's bottom opening is 6" so it was going to cause an issue. That chute is just the middle bit of a 6" reducer with the rim trimmed off and some aluminum tape to keep it sealed. I already had the reducer and it was damaged, so this was a convenient re-use.









I didn't want to alter the lid of the JET can much if I didn't need to. Cutting a larger hole would mean I could never use it with its original cyclonic separator. I didn't want to spend over $200 for the Oneida 30 gallon canister ($80 shipping!).

The next major step (after ducting and wiring and grounding) is to relocate the Jet's remote IR power switch to someplace I can see it and access it from the rest of the shop. It's currently very difficult to reach around the main stack to switch it on. Very tight back there.


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