# Best method for filling gaps, nail holes, knot holes in reclaimed fir tabletop



## Bluefilosoff (Mar 25, 2013)

Would epoxy be the best method for filling in gaps, nail holes, knot holes in a reclaimed fir tabletop? This is now raw sanded wood.


----------



## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Depending on size, drill with a forstner bit and cut plugs. Arrange plugs into a decorative pattern if possible, using a contrasting wood for the plugs.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

On small cracks and nail holes I would fill it with a wood putty like Famowood. If it's a large hole like a knot hole I mix color tint into bondo to match the finish color and then add hardener to it to fill the hole. The only problem is you have to mix the color a little less red to allow for the red in the hardener.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> On small cracks and nail holes I would fill it with a wood putty like Famowood. If it's a large hole like a knot hole I mix color tint into bondo to match the finish color and then add hardener to it to fill the hole. The only problem is you have to mix the color a little less red to allow for the red in the hardener.


+1: I agree with Steve
I use wood putty. If you plan to stain the piece, You can buy the putty to match the final color of the project. 
If your piece will be distressed, you can leave much of these and add even more. I've seen some beautiful flawless pieces distressed. It's just a matter of taste. I will distress a piece when asked, but sometimes it hurts me to do it. 
Jim


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Why do you want to fill the holes? That is the beauty of reclaimed wood.


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

hwebb99 said:


> Why do you want to fill the holes? That is the beauty of reclaimed wood.


That's what I was thinking. If you want the brand new look, buy brand new wood, because making reclaimed wood look new is an excersize in futility. Besides, the dings, knots, and yes, holes are what gives reclaimed wood its charm.


----------



## 9thousandfeet (Dec 28, 2014)

The problem with using a tinted filler to match the finished wood is that over time the filler and the wood don't react the same way to light and oxidation, so a visual match that's real good when the piece is first completed may not look so good a year or so later. 

I'm kinda on board with celebrating the nicks and dings and holes inherent to reclaimed wood and just letting them speak for themselves.


----------



## Bluefilosoff (Mar 25, 2013)

hwebb99 said:


> Why do you want to fill the holes? That is the beauty of reclaimed wood.


I don't want to hide the holes or knots etc. however I'd like to smooth the top somewhat as there are pieces of the knots missing leaving jagged edges and also would like to reduce the number of crannies where liquids and crumbs etc. would accumulate. Ideally I'd like these defects to be visible yet make the table easier to keep clean. Thought maybe this might be a solution. I should have been more specific in my description.


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Bluefilosoff said:


> I don't want to hide the holes or knots etc. however I'd like to smooth the top somewhat as there are pieces of the knots missing leaving jagged edges and also would like to reduce the number of crannies where liquids and crumbs etc. would accumulate. Ideally I'd like these defects to be visible yet make the table easier to keep clean. Thought maybe this might be a solution. I should have been more specific in my description.


In that case, you might try a clear epoxy. Something like a pour on finish, done it layers of course, would fill in those holes and give you a nice, smooth surface without concealing anything


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I've never experienced a color change in a fill over time. However it looks when it is first filled is how it looks years later. Sometimes the color doesn't initially match. It that case I use touch up markers and sometimes mix tinting color with the finish I'm using and make a product like polyshades to touch up a fill.


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

hwebb99 said:


> Why do you want to fill the holes? That is the beauty of reclaimed wood.


Holes and cracks are breeding grounds for bacteria so they are not a good idea on a dining table.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> I've never experienced a color change in a fill over time. However it looks when it is first filled is how it looks years later. Sometimes the color doesn't initially match. It that case I use touch up markers and sometimes mix tinting color with the finish I'm using and make a product like polyshades to touch up a fill.



Some of the professional touch-up experts use colored wax sticks which they melt into a crack or flaw to make an invisible repair. 
I saw this demonstrated and was very impressed. 
Wax sticks are available from a good woodworkers supply. 
As stated earlier, I tend to use colored wood putty when necessary. 
Learning to use the wax requires a new skill.


----------



## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

For the larger sized knot holes, what I have done is tape a piece of wax paper to the bottom side of the hole with a wood block over it, secured in place with tape. Then I place tiny seashells, dried flowers, or other small treasures in the holes. I then fill it with clear epoxy, which can be sanded smooth and covered with a clear finish of your choice.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Toolman50 said:


> Some of the professional touch-up experts use colored wax sticks which they melt into a crack or flaw to make an invisible repair.
> I saw this demonstrated and was very impressed.
> Wax sticks are available from a good woodworkers supply.
> As stated earlier, I tend to use colored wood putty when necessary.
> Learning to use the wax requires a new skill.


Rather than colored wax sticks I prefer to use colored shellac sticks which cool as hard as the finish. It's heated into the void with a soldering iron with a 1" wide blade.


----------

