# End grain seal for air drying lumber



## wickedsolo (Feb 17, 2017)

I recently had a large red oak taken down in my yard and I kept two 6' logs that I was planning to mill up into 6/4 planks. I have a lumber rack in my garage and was planning to just store them and let them air dry the next year. I've heard it could take that long. 

Anyway, I've read about using a sealant on the end grain to prevent cracking, but I'm not sure what type of sealant to use. Does anyone here have a recommended product?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Anchorseal to seal the ends, it's all I will use....Air drying needs moving air in a garage plus being stickered for maximum air flow through AND around....normally fully enclosed areas aren't the ideal drying facility due not being able to keep enough fresh are flowing in when closed up as they are designed for BUT it can be done....add a DHumidifier and that takes care of pulling the moisture out of the air in the garage....also helps with the drying signifacantly.

check out my website for ideas on sacking and stickering.


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## wickedsolo (Feb 17, 2017)

Tennessee Tim said:


> Anchorseal to seal the ends, it's all I will use....Air drying needs moving air in a garage plus being stickered for maximum air flow through AND around....normally fully enclosed areas aren't the ideal drying facility due not being able to keep enough fresh are flowing in when closed up as they are designed for BUT it can be done....add a DHumidifier and that takes care of pulling the moisture out of the air in the garage....also helps with the drying signifacantly.
> 
> 
> 
> check out my website for ideas on sacking and stickering.




Would you recommend a fan be placed nearby to circulate air?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Sealing the ends of the boards is done to prevent the wood from drying too fast and cause the ends to crack badly. If you do this again the ends of the logs should be sealed as soon as possible after cutting the tree down.


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## wickedsolo (Feb 17, 2017)

Steve Neul said:


> Sealing the ends of the boards is done to prevent the wood from drying too fast and cause the ends to crack badly. If you do this again the ends of the logs should be sealed as soon as possible after cutting the tree down.




I wondered about that. 

I've never milled anything before, so this part is new to me.

I've seen a lot of articles suggesting to stack the wood outside, but wouldn't that introduce it to bugs and weather? I realize outside would be better for air circulation, but I figured inside in a dry place out of the sun would be the best choice. 


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

wickedsolo said:


> I wondered about that.
> 
> I've never milled anything before, so this part is new to me.
> 
> ...


At a saw mill they have hundreds of stacks of wood sitting drying. It would be a daunting task to provide a building for all of it even though it would be better. You keep the wood off the ground so that should eliminate most of the bug problem new bugs getting into the wood. The bugs that are there already are another problem. There is one bug which has been brought over here from Europe which is a particular problem. It's the powder post beetle. You need to watch for little piles of dust under the wood. They make the tiniest little hole in the wood which is very difficult to see and do as much damage as termites. The dust piles is the only clue they are there and the wood needs to be treated with insecticide. This is one of the benefits of kiln drying. The wood is heated enough to kill any bugs in the wood. 

The wood sitting in the sun isn't good either but the mill I worked at briefly put the worst cuts of wood on top to shield the rest of it.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Wicked...there's lots more to drying then putting it in stacks....you can actually dry too fast in a natural enviroment such as a excessive hotter summer or too windy....or too slow in a very stale enviroment where there's very little air movement and it molds. I'm not going into detail as it can get very lengthy. ADrying IMO is the best all around way to go, it's natural and it works the boards to relieve stresses. I dry all mine under covered top sheds. I don't want to be concerned if I let it dry for 10 yrs or my normal 1yr per inch thickness....it's in the dry....I normally KD for sterilizing and for interior use BUT I have a few that buy AD'd.

Bugs, creepy crawlys, etc., etc. It's best to strip the bark off as this is where most bugs feast/hide...BUT they still can go deeper. I leave most of mine on that will stay on....certian times of year and certian species are NOT going to keep it on long as it dries.

One of the companies that sale Anchorseal also sale a venting ADing tarping system for smaller quanities/stacks. Please take the time to read up on drying hardwood and stickering correctly. Several universities have write ups along with division of forestry..... Dr. Gene aka "wood doctor" has articles and books re drying.

Knowledge is your best friend....here say will get you in deep crap!!!


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

> There is one bug which has been brought over here from Europe which is a particular problem. It's the powder post beetle.


 My son had them in his hardwood flooring. They had to replace several boards in the house. Not a difficult job but created a lot of sawdust.


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