# Finally got a mill



## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

Went to Royston GA today to get a mill. I have a Hud-Son Oscar 118. its small but its a start. i can cut up to 18" log and 16 wide boards. so for live edge slabs ill be limited to 15 inches on the log or so i think. I got it brand new for $2500. i will post pics when i get it all set up. I cant wait. youll see milling pics for sure from me now.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

MidGAOutdoor said:


> Went to Royston GA today to get a mill. I have a Hud-Son Oscar 118. its small but its a start. i can cut up to 18" log and 16 wide boards. so for live edge slabs ill be limited to 15 inches on the log or so i think. I got it brand new for $2500. i will post pics when i get it all set up. I cant wait. youll see milling pics for sure from me now.


Do a pictoral build thread on the setup.......
A lot of us would enjoy that
Congrats on your new toy...er...ah....new piece of equipment....:laughing:'


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## qbilder (Dec 19, 2010)

Congrats!!! Aside from live edge slabs and burls, 16" wide lumber is unpractical anyway. Pics are a must :thumbsup:


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

i will do a video of it. i have it set up temporarely but ill explain what i had to do with it.


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

Congratulations on the new mill. You're gonna have a blast and I'm afraid you will be totally addicted to sawing now. :thumbsup:


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

ill have some pics this weekend hopefully. i am haveing a hard time getting it all level. i think the wedges we are usinfg are too small and i need some wedges cut from 2x4s. the track is 12 feet long so i may end up getting a 5x12 trailer and putting a jack in each corner for lefeling. (i am an authorized Horton Hauler Dealer)


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Good for you midGA. 
Thumbsup!!!! Can't wait to see pics and slabs.


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## zbohm (Dec 30, 2012)

Congratulations MidGA. I've got a Timberking 1220. Don't worry bout the small capacity you'll still have fun and get some amazing wood. Can't wait to see some pics.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

i need some tips for leveling. i have 4x4s inder the tracks the short way and am attempting to use wooden wedges to bring into level. bad idea?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

MidGa,

Congrats.

The best way to level is 2 straight 6x6's 12 ft long supported 3 places all level. When I was a dealer I had a TractorSupplyCompany 1,000 lb yard wagon's axles under 2- 6x8's that I kept a new saw set up on for demoing. It worked great...I could roll saw out, saw a few cuts, let customer cut and either sold them a working saw or rolled back in for next customer....I unbolted several saws after their first demo especially after showing how thin and true it would cut tip to tip. 

Enjoy sawing, LEVELING is for best performance, proper blade tension is a must.....a tension gauge by Lenox is what I have just purchased and found out Hud-sons torque spec wasn't correct.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome love,
Tim


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## zbohm (Dec 30, 2012)

Hey MidGA. Some pics maybe helpful if your still hung up on leveling. My saw has threaded feet on it for leveling so it was pretty straight forward. I actually made drop in mounts that are fasten to the 6x6 so it can't slide and come out of square. My concern with wedges would be movement when your loading/turning larger logs. Also I used 6"x6" just to get a little more height on the deck, just so it's not quite as far to bend over to clamp,etc. Hope you get her goin. Get ready for everything else to take a back seat to sawing. You'll be hooked


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

we got it level. i have nothing but bad things to say. 1. will not take an 18" log as specified. 2.if it would take an 18 log the dogs are to puny to holt it down. 3 these "cheaters" as i was told are supposed to fit b/w the rails to hold logs, they dont. 4 its a royal PITA to level. 5. The tracks arent wide enough to manouver a large log. the motor is good tho. want a mill, buy a wood mizer.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Still no pics? What's wrong with you midGA? Lol


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

cant find camera


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Well that stinks. Hope you can find it soon.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

well when i wrote that i was still steaming. now that ive calmed down i am going to try to work with it and see what i can come up with.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

You may have the wrong squaring "cheaters" dogs....there's several differ machines and sizes.....All their specs are for perfect straight logs...I haven't found any. As the PM I returned to you 2 weeks ago about them....now you realize why I always recommended the minimum of the 328. As their setup papers says for best setup...pour a level concrete pad...or level 6x6's. 

Have a Blessed and Prosperous evening in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

i talked to the dealer and im gonna grind the cheaters so they fit. he said theyve had that issue before. hes also gonna send me one of those plastic marking guides that comes out over the scale with the red line for determining thickness. i am going to build a level deck 2 foot wide and 12 long and bolt this sucker down.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Did you break or loose the marking guide???? 2 yrs ago when I was a dealer they came out with that model I thought it had one clamped on the cable. I only kept mine in stock ONLY long enough to know I wasn't going to promote it and traded back in for a 328....I could fore see more disappointed than happy customers if they purchased the hobby and hfe models. I noticed on their (Hud-Son) website their now offering limited time free shipping on models up to the 328... maybe they'll get smart and do all the saws....definitely will improve sales!!!

Enjoy sawing, it's addictive!!!!

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

yea its clamped to the cable. but i need the clear plastic one that comes out over the scale. im thinking seriously about seeing if the guy will buy it back so i can keep saving for a wood mizer. i wanted to do mobile milling and now that ive found out this thing is next to impossible to level and keep it there its not gonna work for me. i dont want to have to spend a weel figuring out how to level to cut someones logs.


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## qbilder (Dec 19, 2010)

It shouldn't be tough to level a mill, especially a small one. Sorry to hear of your troubles. Maybe speak with the manufacturer & give them a chance to remedy the issue or make things right with you. If no help then do what you gotta do.


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## zbohm (Dec 30, 2012)

Hey MidGA I had a lot of problems leveling my mill the first time. Mine came with trailer package which is still stowed away, because I don't care to move it and go through all that again. Anyway good luck with leveling it, your not alone in the struggle though. As far as returning it I'm glad I've got the capacity I have and I know a few people that upgraded quickly because they got tired of small mills. Not advising you either way but you'll never wish for smaller capacity. Good luck.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

im trying to decide now what to do. i may buy $30 worth of cement and pour a slab or send back and get a woodmizer lt 10


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

I got a question....what's so hard about leveling this sawmill???? It's only 12 ft.
Level one of your 12 ft timbers than level front to back both ends and center.....recheck...but everything should be on. I'm a little pickier...I laser leveled mine, BUT not necessary. 

It doesn't matter if it's a timber base or concrete .....leveling is leveling... if you don't exact level the concrete...you have to bust it up to relevel.

10-15 minutes max to level timbers on a semi flat surface...then set the tracks on and bolt and your done...I lagged mine on the demo wagon for max performance and safety.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous evening in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## zbohm (Dec 30, 2012)

Idk Tim. My problem I think is that one section of bed seems to be warped, about 1/8" over 7'. The overall length of I think 23'6" and the unlevel pad I think added to the problem with mine. Can't speak for MidGa but I sympathize with him.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

idk geting fed up with it fast. now its cutting cupped boards. not much patience left.


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## zbohm (Dec 30, 2012)

Blade tension or feed rate I'd think.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

as a last ditched effort, im gonna set iot up in my shop where i know the cement is pretty level and see how it works. if it still dont work its goin straight on a pallet.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

THE KEY to a great sawing mill is the bed/base being FLAT, LEVEL and NOT TWISTED and then tracks anchored to the bed/base AND rechecked......I CAN NOT EXPRESS this enough.

Daren or I CAN NOT produce fine pieces of lumber without taking lots of time to level and tune the mill. Your cupping sounds like not enough blade tension....I finally got a blade tension guage and realized I've been running too light for the blade (but I was using Hud-Son's spec torque)...It would run true at a slow speed . Couldn't go Higher speeds without cupping or diving...but I'm also pushing the width limits. Hardwoods are tougher than softwoods to cut.

Are You setting blade tension with a torque wrench or by guessing your pull on blade is same as mine for that 1/4 "????

An 1/8 inch in 7 ft...correctly anchoring should've pulled that out on those small tracks.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous evening in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## zbohm (Dec 30, 2012)

Good luck setting up in shop MidGA. Tim my mill is a Timberking. I bought that brand specifically for their beefy beds. I didnt want to drop a log off the forklift and bend a small angle iron bed. The bed is level now( or extremely close) i don't think lag bolts into 6"x6"s is going to straighten the heavy box tubing frame. Anyway I posted my problem so that MidGA would not think that he is the only one that has had trouble setting up a new mill. I have confidence that he will get it level, it's tedious work though. Took me the better part of a day by myself checking and rechecking. Stick with it MidGA. You'll get it. Oh and not to convince you to upgrade already but there's a big maple in my yard that plan on milling very soon. It's about 34"x8'. Glad I've got the capacity would hate to see it get burned up out in the shop. Haha sorry. Anyway GL MidGA.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Sorry I was wondering when you said 23' 6" . Yeah 1/8" is a little harder to get out with heavy frames like ours. Is it just one rail?? Ours is definitely easier to level due to width.....the small ones can be a pain.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous evening in Jesus 's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## zbohm (Dec 30, 2012)

Hey MidGA. How you making out with the mill? haven't heard any news. No news is good news. Fingers crossed. Yeah Tim just one section of track set it furthest away from head so it doesn't really affect anything. I'd of raised hell if I bought it new but bought it a cpl months old from a guy on CL. Anyway come on MidGA pics and status update soon. Please.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Perhaps it should have been a circular mill. :laughing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=endscreen&v=Uz-XBqyfbsk


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

ok dad got it leveled and it still cuts cupped boards. would not reccament it or the dealer (Lugo Land Services in Royston GA) to a friend or any of yall.n will post pics soon


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Show me pictures of what your calling cupped from differ angles. Is it hard wood or softwood??? I was a dealer for 3 yrs...98% of the time cupping wasn't a saw issue but a setup issue....like wrong blade tension.....dull blade (shouldn't be in your case, but have you tried a different blade??)....50% blade installed backwards (teeth pointing wrong way) I think??? that saw runs clockwise (cutting teeth pointed to the left), they will CuT but NOT right if backwards.....twisted track setup...etc., etc... AND I have seen factory problems also.

Have you talked to a factory rep???? I recommend Eric Hertel (most knowledgeable and courteous ) but not sure which factory rep covers your area. 

Mr. Lugo has always been nice and courteous and seems to be professional with my times in speaking with him.

Have a blessed and Prosperous evening in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## qbilder (Dec 19, 2010)

Relax. Sounds like a blade issue as Tim mentioned. Either it's dull or wrong tension, or possibly even not parallel to bed, IMO. Band saws are very simple machines. If your saw is spinning the blade & the blade isn't popping off then nothing is wrong with your sawmill. Check to be sure your blade is parallel to the bed, tensioned correctly, and sharp. Once all those check out then you will be getting good lumber. 

Also don't force the cut. Band saws cut fast but you can't force it. Certain blades are designed for different woods. For instance, a blade meant for dense hardwoods isn't going to cut as fast as a blade meant for pine, and a blade meant for pine will not cut hardwoods as well as blades meant for hardwoods. There's a learning curve to milling. Take some time to learn which blades suit your needs best, and learn how to tinker with & tune your saw for maximum efficiency. It's not difficult and there's not a lot to learn, but it is critical that you learn. It really sounds like the issue is not the sawmill's fault, nor the dealer. Please just relax & get your marbles together, and be patient with the learning experience. You'll be cutting pro quality lumber in no time and you'll be happy you have the mill.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

back bearings were out of adjustment. incorrect blade tension shoe guides were out and dull blade. fixed all and cuts fine.


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## qbilder (Dec 19, 2010)

MidGAOutdoor said:


> back bearings were out of adjustment. incorrect blade tension shoe guides were out and dull blade. fixed all and cuts fine.


Happy ending then? Pics are a must now.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

qbilder said:


> Happy ending then? Pics are a must now.


Yea no doubt!!!! 
Less talking and more pics. Laughing!!!!!


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

That's GREAT news!!.......CUTTING TIME......I know it's a new toy and they're addictive, but keep us filled with pictures.

WOW that's alot of tweaks to do on a new saw....never seen one need that many when new.....especially back bearings.....always a first...or was that a Friday saw???? LOL

I'm glad to hear your going now. What put you on the back bearings alignment??? Glad your frustrations are over and you can saw.....Just for your info....I tweak on my saw getting it fine tuned often (not due to manufactor but my caliber of necessity). My biggest was the band tension...factory spec wasn't enough on mine, also differ blade companies have differ specs due to the steel they use in producing the blades.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous weekend in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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