# I need some advise about cutting very thin plywood



## Jean (Jul 22, 2011)

Hello everyone, I am new here today and looking for some help.

I am a hobby bookbinder. I make the covers of my books with either very thin plywood which tends to warp which is not good. OR Laminated plywood which does not warp.

Up till now, I have been cutting the covers with the tools that I have on hand. One is a huge table saw with very big teeth in the blade ... This tends to chip little pieces off at the cut edges. (... you knew I was going to say that didn't you) ... I have also tried using a scroll saw which does a neat but not very accurate job but takes much too long. 

The job entails cutting a rectangular piece of ply for each book cover then drilling six 5 mm holes along one side of the rectangle to take the binding cords. Each cover is about 21cm x 16cm. They of course must be made in exact but opposite pairs.

Could someone tell me what sort of tool would be best to use? I don't want to go buy something if it is not the correct tool to use. Would a small band saw with a fine blade do the trick?

The other alternative would be to find someone with a laser cutter to cut them for me.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Your table saw would be just fine, it sounds like you just need a more appropriate blade for the material that you are cutting.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Jean said:


> Hello everyone, I am new here today and looking for some help.
> 
> I am a hobby bookbinder. I make the covers of my books with either very thin plywood which tends to warp which is not good. OR Laminated plywood which does not warp.
> 
> ...


http://www.freudtools.com/p-15-ultimate-plywood-br-melamine.aspx:whistling2:


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

Band saw and a jig or fence set up. IMO

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you have 10" saw, an 80T carbide tipped blade, or if you have a 12" saw, a 100T carbide tipped blade. You should get very clean cuts.












 







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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Jean - Get a blade with more teeth, and get one that has a "Hi-ATB" grind. Hi-ATB has the lowest tearout of any other grind, and is perfect for brittle ply and very fine crosscuts. 

Good examples are the Infinity 010-080 Ultrasmooth, Infinity 010-060, Freud LU79 or LU80, Forrest WWI or Forrest Duraline, Amana MB10-800, or CMT 210.080.10 or CMT ITK Plus P10080. These will run in the $60-$100 range, but are pretty amazing blades. If that's not feasible, try an 80T Freud Diablo. You might also be fortunate enough to win a bid on one of these Onsrud Hi-ATB blades made in Germany (currently clearanced at ~ $25 shipped, but these are auction listings and can go higher...worth a shot as they're typically not bid up too high). 

Be sure the saw you have is 10" with a 5/8" arbor.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

They make blades for plywood, that have a about, a million teeth. Well, maybe 200 teeth!
You could also, sandwich the ply, between 2 other pieces to cut.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Multiples?*

How many of one size do you make? Can you stack several pieces together and saw them all at the same time? The tearout issue will occur at the bottom, so that piece can be "sacrifical" or a scrap.
Another solution would be a standardized template and use a router with a trim bit to finish the edges of slightly oversize pieces. A better blade, with more teeth will certainly be useful on the table saw. Unless the pieces fit between the fence and blade on a bandsaw you will have to cut to a line by eye for larger pieces then sand the edges...probably a little more work. Laser cutting would be cool..$$$  bill
BTW the slots would be best done on a router table. The same table can be set up to trim the edges of the pieces like a jointer.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> How many of one size do you make? Can you stack several pieces together and saw them all at the same time?


Don't take this as being "critical". But from experience, I wouldn't cut multiples of anything unless they were securely fastened together somehow. Parts can slip or get drawn out of a stack, and the results can be hazardous.












 







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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Don't take this as being "critical". But from experience, I wouldn't cut multiples of anything unless they were securely fastened together somehow. Parts can slip or get drawn out of a stack, and the results can be hazardous.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's certainly the truth!... I lil painters tape or double stick tape can fix that though...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Of course*

To experienced woodworkers "common sense" and experience would say secure them together.
Assuming the OP is a beginner woodworker based on the question, they may not know this would be standard operating procedure.
So this was "helpful" additional information to the OP. We don't know what process they may consider at this point, so I was not going into details of the method or procedure in the general suggestion I made. My point was more of here are some choices, rather than "how to do it" specifically.  bill


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## Jean (Jul 22, 2011)

*Thanks guys! You have been very helpful*

At this particular moment I do not have a clue what size saw I have. Probably the smaller one. Someone helped me set up the saw a few years ago and I have not looked at the blade from below since then.

I don't think I want to get too technical with this. Sandwiching layers then cutting sounds a bit too scary for me. I will stick to one at a time. But I will go shopping for a nice blade with a zillion teeth and "Hi-ATB" grind and I will check all that stuff like ..."Be sure the saw you have is 10" with a 5/8" arbor. " etc etc before I go to Bunnings. How does that sound? That should keep me out of trouble for a while.

How many do I make you ask? TOO MANY! But I can't help myself! 



























Thanks again! 
Jean
http://journalsbyjean.blogspot.com/


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Jean said:


> At this particular moment I do not have a clue what size saw I have. Probably the smaller one. Someone helped me set up the saw a few years ago and I have not looked at the blade from below since then.


You're gonna have to know the blade and arbor size before you shop. Disregard the "plywood" blade with a zillion teeth, is likely just a steel blade...not one with carbide teeth. 












 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

You said:
Up till now, I have been cutting the covers with the tools that I have on hand. One is a huge table saw with very *big teeth* in the blade ... * This tends to chip little pieces off at the cut edges.* (... you knew I was going to say that didn't you) ... I have also tried using a scroll saw which does a neat but not very accurate job but takes much too long.

And:
*I don't think I want to get too technical with this.* Sandwiching layers then cutting sounds a bit too scary for me. I will stick to one at a time. But I will go shopping for a nice blade with a zillion teeth and "Hi-ATB" grind and I will check all that stuff like ..."Be sure the saw you have is 10" with a 5/8" arbor. " etc etc before I go to Bunnings. How does that sound? That should keep me out of trouble for a while.

The blade should have carbide teeth either 60 teeth or 80 teeth
and if you are comfortable using the "huge" table saw, you may want to use a "zero clearance insert" which will keep the chipped edges to a minimum. A zero clearance insert is simply a wooden or plastic plate replacement for the existing metal plate that removes to access the blade. 

Someone can help you make one or you can purchase one made for your specific make and model saw. Like this: 
http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearance.htm

This reduces the gap on either side of the blade and will accomplish exactly what you are looking for. A new blade and an insert will help. :thumbsup: bill

BTW what huge saw do you have...make and model?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If your saw has a plate, you can use it as a pattern to make one. Whatever you use for as plate it should be the same thickness as the one in the saw. It should finish flush to the saw table. If you use plywood near the same thickness, you may need to use shims to level it.

You can pre-size the material with a band saw, scroll saw, or a jig saw. If you don't have any of those tools you can use a coping saw. Glue or tape the pattern to the material you want to use, that's been cut close to the lines of the original. Use a router with a flush trim bit and guide it on the template. The new insert can be used as an ongoing pattern for future inserts.

With the saw unplugged, crank the blade you will be using all the way down. Place the new insert in the opening. Move the saw fence over on top of the insert, but away from where the blade will cut through. Lock the fence down. Slowly crank the blade up through the new insert. There you have it.

The insert can be of a variety of materials. The insert may have to be modified to use for bevel cuts, stack dado sets, or moulding heads/cutters.












 







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## Jean (Jul 22, 2011)

*OK! OK! I know I said HUGE SAW!*



woodnthings said:


> You said:
> 
> "BTW what huge saw do you have...make and model?


"

OK! OK! I know I said HUGE SAW! ... to you it's probably just a baby one. ... but it scares the daylights out of me everytime I use it. Before I start cutting, I have to take a deep breath, have a little talk to myself ... be careful Jean, it won't take long, be brave ... One step at a time ... 


What I have is a Triton 2000 Workcenter, with a cheap GMC saw installed. I don't use it very often, only when I need new book covers or when one of my grandchildren want something cut .... I dread having to change the blade. I think when the time comes for the operation I will get Michael (grandson) to do it for me. 

As you have probably figured out by now, I am NOT a woodworker, just a little old lady who likes to make *stuff*.

And ... thank you everyone for all your help. I will make sure I have lots of information jotted down before I go shopping.


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

How thin in thin? If it's thinner than 1/4" ply - you might even be able to cut the material with a knife, so long as you don't mind taking more time (as in a lot more time). The cut would be virtually tearout free. If it's 1/4" ply, well I'd stick with either a bandsaw with a 4 or more TPI blade, or get a better tablesaw blade. If you don't have the bandsaw - a new tablesaw blade would be much cheaper. However, if this is something you'll do a lot of, you might consider a small bandsaw - it lends itself to working with smaller finished products like you show in your pics plus you can get artistic with your cuts if you later choose to.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Jean said:


> At this particular moment I do not have a clue what size saw I have. Probably the smaller one. Someone helped me set up the saw a few years ago and I have not looked at the blade from below since then.
> 
> ... But I will go shopping for a nice blade with a zillion teeth and "Hi-ATB" grind and I will check all that stuff like ..."Be sure the saw you have is 10" with a 5/8" arbor. " etc etc before I go to Bunnings. How does that sound? ...


Jean - I should clarify that statement about blade size....I assumed you have a 10" saw with a 5/8" arbor, so the blade models I listed are all 10" diameter with a 5/8" bore. You'll need to buy a blade that has a bore to fit the arbor of your saw, whatever it is. The best way to ensure a good fit is to remove the existing blade and take it with you to the store. The statements about optimum tooth count and grind type remain pretty much the same.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Jean said:


> "
> 
> OK! OK! I know I said HUGE SAW! ... to you it's probably just a baby one. ... but it scares the daylights out of me everytime I use it. Before I start cutting, I have to take a deep breath, have a little talk to myself ... be careful Jean, it won't take long, be brave ... One step at a time ...
> 
> ...



You sound just a little leery of a tablesaw, you could always get a small bandsaw. A very clean cut with the right blade, and one hell of a lot safer. Not good to be too scared of your tools. Just a suggestion.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Amen to that!*

If it "scares the daylights" out of you, don't use it. :no:
If just changing the blade is beyond your ability, don't use it. :thumbdown:

Really as suggested a bandsaw would be better and safer for you in this case. They don't kickback and can be used to cut straight lines with fair accuracy. Safety is the first priority...not completing the project! :yes: bill


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Jean,just wanted to say,I think the way you're incorporating wood in your projects is cool!BW


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