# Endgrain coasters



## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

I got this idea from a YouTube video (youtube.com/watch?v=B-430x85czU).

















I used 24 pieces of wood.









Cut each cookie with the band saw.









After each one was cut free I sanded the end of the block before heading back to the band saw to cut the next.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

I ended up getting 18 coasters out of the block.

















This is after the first application of linseed oil. I'll apply a second coat tomorrow. Then after a few days drying I'll start spraying coats of lacquer. Hopefully this will all help it stand up to actual use underneath sweaty cups, cans and bottles.


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## Duncancruiser (Dec 6, 2011)

That's an awesome idea. They look great.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Very cool and creative.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Love it. You da man!!!!!


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Very cool Steve. I like that idea.


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## hays0369 (May 3, 2011)

Steve,

That is a great idea and it look awesome! 

Hays


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Perfect timing!! I've been looking for this type of idea for some upcoming gifts, not to mention its another way to put my "craft" in the house in subtle ways.

QUESTIONS:

1 - After you cut the coaster free, what did you do to make the 2 surfaces parallel?

2 - When cutting the coasters, what thickness did you choose?


Thanks.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Burb said:


> Perfect timing!! I've been looking for this type of idea for some upcoming gifts, not to mention its another way to put my "craft" in the house in subtle ways.
> 
> QUESTIONS:
> 
> ...


I wasn't too concerned with absolute parallelism. I squared the top side the best I could with the disc sander. Then I used a miter guide when cutting on the band saw. So the top and bottom are close enough to parallel. I believe.

When I get back home I'll measure the thickness. I just eye-balled the fence setting. I wanted them thick enough to avoid warping or fragility but thin enough to look like a coater and not a block of wood. I think they're around 3/8" but i'll measure and get back to you.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

A great idea, Steve. Thanks for posting it.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> I wasn't too concerned with absolute parallelism. I squared the top side the best I could with the disc sander. Then I used a miter guide when cutting on the band saw. So the top and bottom are close enough to parallel. I believe.
> 
> When I get back home I'll measure the thickness. I just eye-balled the fence setting. I wanted them thick enough to avoid warping or fragility but thin enough to look like a coater and not a block of wood. I think they're around 3/8" but i'll measure and get back to you.


No need to measure. Thanks. You ball park is good enough to me. I think I'm going to try some of these when I get a chance. I may try to pick up some exotic scraps from the dealer near me.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Those look neat! Given that they will be coasters, is there a concern that the end grain will wick in the moisture more than long grain would?


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Burb said:


> No need to measure. Thanks. You ball park is good enough to me. I think I'm going to try some of these when I get a chance. I may try to pick up some exotic scraps from the dealer near me.


I did go ahead and measure. They are right at 7/16" thick and 3" square.



Gilgaron said:


> Those look neat! Given that they will be coasters, is there a concern that the end grain will wick in the moisture more than long grain would?


In my mind, yes, there is a concern about that very thing. I'm hoping that my planned finishing schedule of two coats boiled linseed oil topped with around 8 coats of lacquer will seal the wood well enough. Then I'll use contact cement to attach cork sheeting to the bottoms. But only time will tell for sure.

After they're done I may end up using a single coaster for a while to see if it'll hold up to real world conditions before giving any sets away as gifts or selling them. That way I'll know. I don't want anyone to receive a bad product from my workbench. :no:

Worst case, I'll have some decorative tiles to do something with.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I thought that lacquer did not play nice with oil when the oil is the base? Also, doesn't water make lacquer turn milky? I think I'd just use several coats of spar varnish on top of the oil. That stuff is supposed to handle the weather so it should work for just sweaty drink glasses.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

johnnie52 said:


> I thought that lacquer did not play nice with oil when the oil is the base? Also, doesn't water make lacquer turn milky? I think I'd just use several coats of spar varnish on top of the oil. That stuff is supposed to handle the weather so it should work for just sweaty drink glasses.


I thought so too. But then I read an article in a magazine not to long ago that claims it's OK to apply lacquer over BLO as long as the BLO has had time to thoroughly dry.

And I have a wooden table surface in my shop that I lacquered a couple of years ago. It's had drinks sitting on it many times and shows no rings or other finish damage. Though, I don't generally let water stand on it so it's not a true test of how it would stand up on a coaster.

But now you have me wondering about all of the above. Hmm... I think I'd better research a little more before spraying any lacquer on these. I appreciate the words of caution. :thumbsup: For these particular coasters, I think I may have to take your advice and go with spar varnish. As you pointed out, it is intended to be used outdoors.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Going to use in the GAZEBO?????,,,,,,Pictures of the Gazebo, (wood) be nice. hehehe.

Dale in Indy


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Smith Brother said:


> Going to use in the GAZEBO?????,,,,,,Pictures of the Gazebo, (wood) be nice. hehehe.
> 
> Dale in Indy


Yeah, I hear ya'. I was actually hoping to get some more done to the gazebo this week. Now that vacations are done and school has started back up. But I ended up getting a start on a much-needed, long overdo hedge trimming. Still more to do on that but we'll see. Tomorrow will be either hedge trimming or gazebo work... then rain in the afternoon.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Do you have some drawings/pictures of what the gazebo is going to look like?

If I lived closer, I wood pitch in and help, I've built two of them in the past. 

LOTS OF WORK TO BUILD ONE.

Dale in Indy


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

So yeah, Johnnie, I did some research and didn't come across any positive experiences of people coating BLO with lacquer. I don't recall off hand what magazine I just read that in but a plan was suggesting lacquering over cured BLO (unless my memory is tricking me). I remember it seeming counter intuitive when I first read it. I'd pondered a test piece, if I couldn't find the article again, which is a part of my hesitating to proceed more quickly.

I really appreciate that you pointed it out to me. I'll be following your advice and buying some spar varnish.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

Pretty nice! Now I want to try that. If I can use you idea? 

Eric Williams


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Anguspapa said:


> Pretty nice! Now I want to try that. If I can use you idea?
> 
> Eric Williams


It's not my idea, actually. I posted a link earlier in the thread to a video I got the idea from. And, in reality, it probably isn't his original idea either.

Yesterday I read the introduction in a Popular Wooodworking book called "box BY box" by Jim Stack. He makes a great statement that I think sums up a lot of woodworking projects:

"_As usual, I've stolen most of the designs contained in this book and tried to make them my own, so I expect nothing less from you, my fellow woodworker._ _It's all been done before anyway - just not by you - so go for it. And finally, keep makin' sawdust."_ - Jim Stack

Not only are those words relevant to your comment but they really resonate with me as being an underlying truth that encompasses woodworking in general. Just as my coasters are different from the ones in "ThisWoodworking's" video, yet the exact same idea I learned from the video. 

Indeed, it's the same reason this forum is what it is.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

I went and bought a can of spar varnish yesterday. And, alas, that was $17 I didn't need to spend :huh: I already had a can. I just didn't bother taking to time to verify that I DIDN'T. Instead, I trusted my memory. My memory lied. The can I bought is the satin on the left. I already had the can on the right.









I gave the coasters a first coat of satin spar. Though they don't look as satin-y as I would have liked.









I'll give them all a light sanding - probably tomorrow (since I'm sure it'll be raining most of the day then, as it has been today, so I should have plenty of time) - and apply a second (and hopefully, final) coat.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

You are so TRUTHFUL/HONEST,,,,,GOOD FOR YOU.....

Looking nice,

Enjoy in the Gazebo.

Dale in Indy


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## Samsmit (Aug 22, 2013)

Definitely got to make some of these with all my off cuts.. Good idea


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## jojorik (Oct 18, 2013)

Awesome idea!!!


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## Dopalgangr (Jan 20, 2012)

Very cool, I know what to do with my scraps now, THANKS!


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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

Steve. I love it! Such a good idea... I might need to try this one. Talk about a great way to use up ripped scraps!


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## paintr56 (Dec 31, 2006)

Great looking project. I am thinking about using them for a back splash.
Jim Bunton


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

paintr56 said:


> Great looking project. I am thinking about using them for a back splash.
> Jim Bunton


Ohhhh, I love that idea!


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> I went and bought a can of spar varnish yesterday.


Steve, since it's been about 3 months, how are the coasters holding up to the moisture from the spar finish? Would you do them the same next time?


Also, did you end up putting only cork on the bottom like you had once planned?


Thanks for your info.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Burb said:


> Steve, since it's been about 3 months, how are the coasters holding up to the moisture from the spar finish? Would you do them the same next time?
> 
> 
> Also, did you end up putting only cork on the bottom like you had once planned?
> ...


Yes, I did cork the bottoms. I thought I posted a picture here but, I must have only put it in my album (which can be found via the link in my sig).

I used one of the coasters for about a week. Water just sits on the top. Though it would spill off if too much condensation were to build up. That's great for the wood. But that's not a very desirable feature in a coaster. At least they look cool.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Yes, I did cork the bottoms. I thought I posted a picture here but, I must have only put it in my album (which can be found via the link in my sig). I used one of the coasters for about a week. Water just sits on the top. Though it would spill off if too much condensation were to build up. That's great for the wood. But that's not a very desirable feature in a coaster. At least they look cool.


I wonder if you made the standard coasters from the scraps, then added the frame pieces around the outside just a little proud to help hold the puddled water. Just a thought.

Mark


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Burb said:


> I wonder if you made the standard coasters from the scraps, then added the frame pieces around the outside just a little proud to help hold the puddled water. Just a thought.
> 
> Mark


It would definitely hold the water. I've used coasters that hold the water in puddle form. The problem then becomes the water that clings to the bottom of the glass and then drops off all over the surface you're trying to protect by using a coaster in the first place.

It seems that the only good coaster (that is, one that actually works worth a crap) is one that absorbs the moisture and wicks it away from the glass.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> It would definitely hold the water. I've used coasters that hold the water in puddle form. The problem then becomes the water that clings to the bottom of the glass and then drops off all over the surface you're trying to protect by using a coaster in the first place. It seems that the only good coaster (that is, one that actually works worth a crap) is one that absorbs the moisture and wicks it away from the glass.


Understand. What about covering the top with cork? The Cork would absorb the water and you'd still have a nice looking coaster. Just a thought.

Mark


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## Drobbins329 (Oct 11, 2013)

Oooooh, I can contribute to this! I have made some coasters from oak. Engraved them. Then coated them in the finish you picked up. Helmsman or something like that. They have been in use for almost a year by a heavy drinker. No signs of wear and tear. The engraving actually trapped some of the condensation too. Gave the water some surface to stick to. Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## [email protected] (Oct 5, 2013)

This is really cool! I think I'm going to round up some irregular pieces I have and give it a shot. Thanks for the idea and all of the pictures!


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

I too made some end grain coasters out of a small log of sassafras 










I still have to put a cork backing on it yet


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## kelsky (Jan 14, 2013)

These are awesome! I did the same a while back. I've attached the process i used to build these. A lot of compliments as I am starting to give them out as gifts.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/showthread.php?t=54973&referrerid=36941


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

That's a good idea with the log.... I've got some small limbs of black locust out back for the fire pit from a tree that came down... that'd be a cool project for them.


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## Camden (Oct 22, 2013)

*Coasters(necro-posting)*

So, after reading this thread, having already planned to make some endgrain coasters out of some oak branches, this is what I did to help with the moisture wicking problem:
Mineral oil finish x 2, allowing plenty of time to dry between coats. Sanded nice and smooth. I used a spar finish as well, but I masked off thin, concentric circles before application. This allows moisture to absorb, and the coaster retains a nice, finished look. The bottom has a cork foot in the center, but the rest of the bottom only has one coat of oil, which allows for some moisture evaporation, extending the life of the coasters. Will they degrade over time? Absolutely. Will I sell them? Unlikely. If I do, they would be inexpensive and come in packs of 10 or 20, making them essentially disposable. These have only been in service for about 3 weeks, and so far, they look great. I anticipate that the first thing to go will be the spar finish(probably peel due to water permeating underneath), but with another quick coat of mineral oil(or whatever), they'll look good again. Eventually, the grain will raise up, they may crack, they WILL warp, and they'll end up in the trash. It's still better than plastic, and if someone wants a moisture wicking coaster that will last forever, I will give them a chunk of sandstone!. Seriously, though, mine don't look nearly as cool as Steve's(they're just "cookies" of white oak with a bit of spalting), but they ARE fairly functional, and so far, they've earned their keep. I'm still planning on further experimentation, and if anyone has any new ideas, I'm all ears. People love these things, so if there's a way to extend their life(possibly indefinitely?), I'm all for it. I know it's low-brow, and normally it isn't so much my style, but I've grown to enjoy having them around. Will post pictures as soon as I get back to my computer(out of town). Thanks for starting this thread; it inspired me to think beyond just cutting off cookies and putting drinks on 'em! Merry Christmas everyone!

Camden


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

That's great, Camden. I'd love to see yours when you get back home.

Merry Christmas to you - and every one else here - as well.


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