# Does anyone know about this handsaw



## bwolfgra (Aug 18, 2013)

I picked up this handsaw at an estate sale for $1. From what I can tell, it is a Disston No. 7 or No. 8. I'm new to handsaws, so I'm going to figure out how to sharpen, but I'm trying to understand the tooth pattern. This saw has 4-4.5 tpi, but the angles are not consistent. I'm not familiar with this, but I am hoping one of you are. Is there a name for this pattern that I can research?

This seems like a good saw that can be rehabilitated into a good user. I'm slowing transitioning from power to hand tools, so I want to make sure I learn to sharpen this correctly. Thanks for all your help.


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

Looks like whoever was sharpening it just did a poor job and totally lost the tooth pattern. If you have a good sharpening service in your area they can re-cut the teeth to the right pattern and then you can learn to sharpen it yourself. Check this site for Disston history.
http://disstonianinstitute.com/


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## bwolfgra (Aug 18, 2013)

I'll have look into whether there are reliable saw sharpeners around here.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

You could take the Micro$oft route and claim it has the "Snaggletooth" feature. :laughing:


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Yeah that tooth line is totally shot. If I were restoring that saw I would joint the teeth all the way down until each of the gullets were only about 1/16" deep, then measure the spacing to see if it needs to be completely laid out again. Then grab a file and start shaping!


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Here's a link to a quick thread on a handsaw restore I did a while ago, in case you're curious what goes into fixing one up. There's more to it than this, but it will give you a general idea. 

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/#/forumsite/20980/topics/89049?page=1&postid=910985


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## bridger (Aug 9, 2012)

That is a beautiful old saw.


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## MJJ (Jul 14, 2012)

I agree, I've never seen such a pattern, and can't imagine its advantage, but it is suspiciously regular. It seems intentional.


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## chris kenney (Feb 10, 2012)

There are 3 basic geometry facets of saw sharpening. Fleam, rake and slope (gullet), rip saws and crosscut saws are filed and sharpened differently. Rip saws are relatively easy to sharpen as most have 0 fleam (tooth bevel) and are sharpened by filing at a 90 degree angle across each tooth. Your saw needs to "jointed", that is taking all the teeth down to small stubs, evenly spaced and same height. Most of these old saws were sharpened incorrectly by people who did not understand the basic tooth geometry of the saw in the first place. Make sure you give the saw to someone who does. You probably have a rip saw there but that can be changed to. Crosscut or hybrid cut fairly easily. Good luck.

Chris
Atlanta


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

BZawat said:


> Here's a link to a quick thread on a handsaw restore I did a while ago, in case you're curious what goes into fixing one up. There's more to it than this, but it will give you a general idea.
> 
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/#/forumsite/20980/topics/89049?page=1&postid=910985


That link did NOT take me to a link that you described..... :thumbdown: :huh:


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Joe Lyddon said:


> That link did NOT take me to a link that you described..... :thumbdown: :huh:


wow! the site admins must have replaced the link I originally posted there. I will try again...


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Joe Lyddon said:


> That link did NOT take me to a link that you described..... :thumbdown: :huh:


http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/disston-no-7-panel-saw-restoration-89049/


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## woodbeauty (Apr 28, 2015)

*ragged rip saw*

Hey, guys, no need to file all the teeth off. Looks to me like the old beast will still cut fairly well, evenif it dont look that great. A couple sheets of 120, 220, and a little doctoring of the worst teeth, and if you are patient, I think she will come out of retirement quite nicely. Paul Sellers is a guy I trust, and he says you can even out the teeth by filing the larger teeth, leave the smaller teeth, and over the next few filings, you can save the saw from (and yourself) a lot of needless wear-and-tear.


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## jsb1140 (Jul 11, 2014)

*Disston saw*

There is a Henry Disston museum that you can find on the internet. You can send them pictures and they will describe and evaluate your saw.


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## Salt4wa (Nov 10, 2015)

Actually that looks like my dad's favorite saw that I sharpened for him as a father's day surprise back in the 60's. It was my first try and he was very impressed. He was so proud of the job I did that he placed it on a special spot on the wall of the workshop that I could reach and moved the rest of his saws into a locked cabinet after that. 
I often wondered what happened to that saw...


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## jsb1140 (Jul 11, 2014)

I'm a life long woodworker and that's where handsaws belong...on the wall or in a locked cabinet.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

jsb1140 said:


> I'm a life long woodworker and that's where handsaws belong...on the wall or in a locked cabinet.


Out of curiosity, what do you mean by that?


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## FatBear (Feb 1, 2011)

If you look at the white background rather than the saw's teeth, and squint just a little, you will see that the teeth are arranged in regular pairs, but that filing them carelessly has caused slight variations. I could be wrong, but I seem to remember that this kind of pattern did have a purpose, though I don't remember what it was. Crosscutting in softwoods, I think. Maybe to reduce chatter.


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## geraldlleal (Nov 20, 2015)

send it off to BAD AXE TOOLS. they're the best sharpening service that I know of.


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## bruceL (Jun 16, 2007)

This is an American Diston which were the best. I have a Canadian Diston which is pretty poor the teeth do no hold a point for long. The american diston are far better. The teeth have been poorly cut probably due to continuous bad practice when sharpening. The number of teeth per inch suggests a rip/cross cut saw used for rough work. For ripping the teeth are sharpened differently to a cross cut. I would suggest getting the saw recut for whatever you intend using it for ie about 7 to 8 teeth per inch, unless you want to keep it as it is. Best of luck


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## TobyC (Apr 30, 2013)

Looks like beech which makes it a No. 7, from 1896-1917, they became D-7s after 1928.

If it was apple it would be a No.8.

Look.

Saw Filing--A Beginner's Primer


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## TobyC (Apr 30, 2013)

Do NOT remove all of the teeth or have it retoothed by machine! That saw has a nice full blade and a retoother will take more off than you want to lose, do it yourself or let Bad Axe do it.


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## TobyC (Apr 30, 2013)

jsb1140 said:


> I'm a life long woodworker and that's where handsaws belong...on the wall or in a locked cabinet.


I use handsaws almost every day, I'm a real woodworker and a handtool lover. You aren't a woodworker, you're a machine user.


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## Slootman (Nov 25, 2015)

That pattern was created as a rip saw. There were basically 2 types of hand saws rip and cross cut that pattern is a rip. I used to sell them. I wouldn't change it just sharpen it and see if you can find another somewhere that has a higher t p I I still have a bunch here private message me and send me your address and I'll send you one. If you want. 
Rick


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## bwolfgra (Aug 18, 2013)

Thanks, everybody. I think I'm going to try to sharpen it myself. There are enough tutorials out there that I think I can do it.


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## TobyC (Apr 30, 2013)

Please show us your progress. :yes:


Post HERE and Marv will help you step by step through the process, I am there too.


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## Bill Clayton (Dec 30, 2011)

*Rip Saw*

I can't really tell without looking from the saw head but it might be an old rip saw. I learned from my dad to never get rid of tools. Just put them on the wall of the shop or keep them in my journeyman toolbox.


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## hts1965 (Jan 19, 2016)

If you want to do it yourself, you should have some kind of sharpening clamp. I use two pieces of angle iron, as long as the blade, clamped on each side with C clamps, and in a vice. they keep the saw straight and stiff. Start with a flat file and slide it over the tooth tips from end to end, until you are down to the shortest tooth. I would also check it with a straight edge to make sure you are getting it straight too. Although most old saws were slightly convex if you sighted down the teeth from end to end. The hard part will be getting the teeth uniform; spacing, and angles. I seem to remember there is a guide that will do that, but you may have to search for one. You also need to start with a saw set to angle the teeth alternately from side to side correctly. One alternative is to find a saw service. Your local lumber yard may know one. Ask them to run it through their machine several times, not just one big filing. You may have to pay for each time but that will not overheat the teeth. I remember getting a saw back from some services, and many of the teeth tips were blue from overheating, by filing, or grinding, too deep, too fast. Either way good luck, it's not a quick easy job.


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