# loose plywood panel in cabinet door



## cain8885 (Aug 21, 2009)

So, I've got some rails and stiles cut using my fancy bit set. The pieces have a 1/4 inch groove. The birch plywood I have and that they seem to have everywhere I go, isn't even close. Now I know that plywood is off from the true dimension, but most of the stuff i have seen is quite a bit narrower. 

What do people do, when using plywood panels in cabinet doors? 

B


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

there are little foam pellets shaped sort of like small barrels that are inserted into the rails and stiles before the panel is added.
I forget what they are called. Or try adding some window screen gasket.


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

Try Rockler....they are called space balls.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Probably 5mm panel. They all seem to still refer to it as 1/4" when it is barely 3/16"


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

You need to get the bits that are specifically made for plywood as no plywood is actually 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, but actually about 1/32 less than stated and even then it can vary.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cain8885 said:


> So, I've got some rails and stiles cut using my fancy bit set. The pieces have a 1/4 inch groove. The birch plywood I have and that they seem to have everywhere I go, isn't even close. Now I know that plywood is off from the true dimension, but most of the stuff i have seen is quite a bit narrower.
> 
> What do people do, when using plywood panels in cabinet doors?
> 
> B



With a plywood panel, you can glue it in the groove. You could place the doors face down and weight the plywood so its glued tight to the front. Gluing in the panel will make the door more rigid.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Julian the woodnut said:


> You need to get the bits that are specifically made for plywood as *no plywood is actually 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, but actually about 1/32 less than stated* and even then it can vary.



That's not entirely true. You can still buy full thickness plywoods from those suppliers that carry higher end stock. The home centers aren't in that group.


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## cain8885 (Aug 21, 2009)

Hey thanks everyone. I think I will be going along with what cabinet man said sort of and put some little wedges in place to hold the panels to the front during glue up. 

Got four doors built thus far and its looking good. Too bad I don't have anymore clamps.

Brian


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## jraksdhs (Oct 19, 2008)

*what i do*

I buy 3/8" panels and rabbit the back out to fit perfectly, then glue my panels in. This method gives maximum stability. JMO

jraks


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Going along with what jraks said, you can glue a plywood panel in place.

It is most unlikely that the plywood will expand or shrink. Just put a glob of glue in the center of the rail and stile. The glue will hold the plywood nice and tight. It also helps to cut the plywood about 1/32" less than the size of the opening in the door holding the plywood.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Here is an idea for using plywood as a panel. Sorry about the picture.


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

*To get a better fit*

you might consider adding a spacer of sorts to the rear of the plywood panel. It would be as simple as ripping and planing some hardwood stock to 3/8" wide by whatever thickness you need to make up the difference. Adhere it to the back of the panel like a picture frame with some wood to wood crazy glue.

Ed


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

if the back is not seen you can insert wooden tooth picks into the gap and space them around the edge. if both sides are seen, then the bes method today is to use the adjustable groove system for metric plywoods. most manufacturers are carrying them now. search on "instile bits" by amana.


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## kreuzie (Jan 10, 2008)

On my hickory kitchen cabinets, since 3/8" plywood was not available, I use 1/4" Hickory/maple and 1/4" birch/maple. I cut the panels oversize (with plenty of room for trim), then contact cement them together with the good faces out. I then trim to fit the doors and rabbet the back (maple) face with a 3/8" piloted router bit to fit the 1/4" groove. 

It's a bit of work, but the thicker panel adds some heft to the door and doesn't sound hollow when you tap on it. I also stumbled onto a great deal on a bunch of 8' x 4' hickory (grain runs the short way) for about $10 a sheet (shop grade, good one side). The maple/birch is a shop grade, good one side, for about the same price.

kreuzie


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## shopsmithtom (Nov 3, 2009)

I have used "Goop"... plumbers, or automotive, or whatever...it's all the same stuff. It's hi tack dense clear silicone stuff & it's great for this kind of construction.


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## hawglet (Feb 15, 2010)

other suggestions, maybe hot glue ribbon or those little triangle for setting glass into a rabbit. Triangles would still allow it to move vertically or horizontally if you left slop there but not in and out.


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