# What can I use to seal workbench top?



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I bought a factory made work bench top from the Flea Market and I really like it because it perfectly flat except that it soaks up everything. I’m using on my back patio roll around work bench and I nominally use it for small wood projects, but lately I’ve used it to repair some garden equipment. I have a rubber mat to protect it, but I still manage to have drops of oil or fuel splash on it and have to clean it immediately. 

I don’t want to paint it and I don’t want to use anything that will raze the surface. I’m afraid to have to sand it, because I may lose my flat smooth surface. I know it looks pretty bad now, but I actually have it upside down until I can find a way to seal it.


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## NickB (Sep 24, 2013)

I'd scuff sand and use an oil based polyurethane. If you want to cover the stains, get it in a solid color like Minwax Polyshades. You'll need more than a couple coats to offer any real protection...


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

Yep---Oil Poly---as many coats as you have patience for---then a heavy coat of paste wax--so glue and other goo will pop off with a putty knife----


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Oil based polyurethane is good for a bench top however is there any motor oil or other chemicals on the wood now? Polyurethane isn't so great for adhesion so the spots of motor oil would need to be cleaned as best as possible and then sealed with Zinsser Sealcoat. The Sealcoat would provide a barrier coat that the poly would adhere to.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Steve Neul said:


> Oil based polyurethane is good for a bench top however is there any motor oil or other chemicals on the wood now? Polyurethane isn't so great for adhesion so the spots of motor oil would need to be cleaned as best as possible and then sealed with Zinsser Sealcoat. The Sealcoat would provide a barrier coat that the poly would adhere to.


Well the spots already had me worrying about whether or not something would stick and I really didn't want to paint it. 
I wish I could have gotten this thing brand new so I could have finished it proper. I just don't know why these tops weren't finished in the first place because they were pretty high priced when I looked it up.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I use dewaxed shellac*

Shellac is a great finish for a workbench because you just pour on a new coat wipe it all on with a rag and bam.... you're done. It melts into the previous coats and seals it perfectly. I used my particle board top for about 5 years before I got tired of the dents and flipped it over. It still had a nice finish from several recoats, I just wanted a clean look. 
I would not use a poly, it will get scratched and you can't recoat it without sanding or it won't adhere. It's also too shiny and slick and you will chase your project all over the bench. You don't want a slippery finish on your bench top, at least I don't.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

Yellow glue has hell trying to stick to nitro lacquer or plastic laminate. :yes:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Shellac finish*

Here's what I use. After a couple of poured on coats then wiped, and it's dried overnight, I run a steel scraper over it to level it out. The pile of scrapings is what came off and now it's really smooth, but not too slippery:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Here's what I use. After a couple of poured on coats then wiped, and it's dried overnight, I run a steel scraper over it to level it out. The pile of scrapings is what came off and now it's really smooth, but not too slippery:


It never even occurred to me to scrape it, but I do have scrapers and was just wondering if it would be beneficial to do a little scraping before putting on the shellac as well as after?


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