# New Panel Saw Idea



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Hey 
Maybe this has been on here before but thought I would share it due to the fact that you can get the parts on EBay. Dirt cheap.

Bearings and slides are made and offered by a company called 8020. Just search 8020 on EBay. Very affordable very tight and accurate.
If you buy the bearings and parts and build them yourself each will cost less than $12 and the rails were $40 a piece. I picked up the lazy Susan on EBay too, less than forty bucks. It has zero slop and makes it a quick change from cross cut to rip.

I have less than 20 hrs in it and it's almost complete.

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*great job Al*

As someone who has been working on a panel saw for about 6 mos. yours is such a simple solution. Mine has horizontal as well as vertical travel and that's the "rub" but I've got it down to fine tuning for accuracy now.  bill


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

That looks great Al! :thumbsup:

Are you gonna make it so it travels east and west also?

Or just push the sheet through? :smile:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Al B Thayer said:


> Hey
> Maybe this has been on here before but thought I would share it due to the fact that you can get the parts on EBay. Dirt cheap.
> 
> Bearings and slides are made and offered by a company called 8020. Just search 8020 on EBay. Very affordable very tight and accurate.
> ...


How long are your rails? Would you mind making a parts list for us, I have wanted to make a panel saw for a good while. That is just too neat.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> AS someone who has been working on a panel saw for about 6 mos. your's is such a simple solution. Mine has horizontal as well as vertical travel and that's the "rub" but I've got it down to fine tuning for accuracy now.  bill


Bill, that is some good thinking, I wouldn't have thought about building one like a RAS, does yours have a drag or tensioner to keep it from kicking?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*so's not to hijack this thread*

briefly no. the blade guard presses against the work. :thumbsup: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> *so's not to hijack this thread*


If the OP asked if anyone has made a panel saw, it wouldn't be a hijack.










 







.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*maybe he will.....*



cabinetman said:


> If the OP asked if anyone has made a panel saw, it wouldn't be a hijack.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Then you can answer. :blink: bill

I posted mine out of admiration and respect for the simplicity of the OP's concept. It's a beautiful approach to the idea. Seems to me in your response here, you've done exactly what you are advocating NOT to do and it isn't the first time in 11, 250+ posts


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I'm going to push the panels through on roller bearings. I have them but haven't installed them yet. I want to make the bottom roller rail adjustable in order to maintain square. I also still have to brace from top to bottom on an angle and add upper support slides for ripping.
Here is the material list for the working parts. All found on EBay. You can also buy the linear bearings assembled at three times the price if you want. This 8020 group has a lot of items we all can use for other jigs and such.

4- 8020 T Slot Linear Bearing Housing 15 S 6815 A
4- 8020 T Slot Aluminum Bearing Shims 15 S & 40 S 6881 N
4- 8020 T Slot UHMW Bearing Pad 15 S 6590 (3pc pack)
1- 8020 T Slot UniBearing SS Screw 15 S 40 S 3650 (16pc) N
2- 80/20 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 15 S 1515 x 72" N
2- 80/20 T Slot Linear Bearing Brake Kit 15 S 6802 N
1- 450mm Lazy Susan Aluminum 500 lbs Turntable Bearings
Ripon 70298701P Roller Bearings. These are used in commercial cloths dryers. Others may want another type. I can't say for sure this style will be accurate.

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Oh I forgot the rails are 6' long. this length works without problem but you can get them longer.

Can't make any money in wood


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Al B Thayer said:


> Oh I forgot the rails are 6' long. this length works without problem but you can get them longer.
> 
> Can't make any money in wood


Nice setup. Well done.









 







.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Thanks to all 

I will keep you posted. Say what's an OP and what is hijacking?

Can't make any money in wood


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*terms*

The OP in this case is YOU, the Original Poster! :yes:
Hijacking a thread occurs when a post in the thread is "way off the subject" or "unwarranted comments" and in general not helpful or and or distracting. Now that's just my opinion.... 
Some times a member who has a similar idea or has BTDT, Been There Done That may "chime in" and post their idea. Usually it's meant to be helpful and not competitive with the original subject, but not in all cases. My view is that ideas are ideas, some are good some are not, usually all are welcome. But we can decide ...."This thread has been hijacked" will appear.

BTW By The Way, Thanks for posting your great idea!  bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The "OP" could also mean "The original post" as in post content. There are times that a response may show or describe an item or project to help explain the thrust of the OP. I've done that many times to show or explain methods or finishes, without the intent of "hijacking"... which would be the drawing attention to what I want to show versus the connection to the OP.










 







.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Al B Thayer said:


> I'm going to push the panels through on roller bearings. I have them but haven't installed them yet. I want to make the bottom roller rail adjustable in order to maintain square. I also still have to brace from top to bottom on an angle and add upper support slides for ripping.
> Here is the material list for the working parts. All found on EBay. You can also buy the linear bearings assembled at three times the price if you want. This 8020 group has a lot of items we all can use for other jigs and such.
> 
> 4- 8020 T Slot Linear Bearing Housing 15 S 6815 A
> ...


Al, I really appreciate you going to the trouble of posting the list and part numbers, that is a tremendous help. Just one more question, can you get longer side rails and is there a way to connect two rails if the longer ones are not available? Hummmm that is more than one question.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Say 
If anyone has a panel saw they would like to post pics of on this thread, please do. I picked up my ideas from two units I found on the net by looking for plans. Two mainly. One had the lazy susan but his saw was very complicated and very well built. It traveled on the rip. The other saw was mostly made out of wood from a kit sold on EBay. It had good ideas but didn't look like it was going to be accurate. 

I think I will have an accurate rip by pushing the sheets through on 2" roller bearings. Cost and time go way up on traveling rip units IMHO.

Please share photos too

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jiju1943 said:


> Al, I really appreciate you going to the trouble of posting the list and part numbers, that is a tremendous help. Just one more question, can you get longer side rails and is there a way to connect two rails if the longer ones are not available? Hummmm that is more than one question.


I think I saw them on EBay 96". Search 8020 rails or t slot. Also I have the thicker heavier ones that are 1 1/2" square. You can also contact 8020 and request the size and length you want. 

They have all the different connectors on EBay. Search "lowest price first" and all the connectors will come up first.

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## Desertfox (Jan 6, 2012)

Say Al I'm New today on the forum I really like your posts and design. Have you a Drawing of your Panel Saw design that you can post? Also where did you source the bearing for the panel to be cut on the rip to rest? Lastly, where have you mounted the scale? Sorry if I've asked questions that may have been posted but I just looked in on this forum, joined and have been reading the great posts. Thanks


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Desertfox said:


> Say Al I'm New today on the forum I really like your posts and design. Have you a Drawing of your Panel Saw design that you can post? Also where did you source the bearing for the panel to be cut on the rip to rest? Lastly, where have you mounted the scale? Sorry if I've asked questions that may have been posted but I just looked in on this forum, joined and have been reading the great posts. Thanks


Fox
I haven't figured out where to put the scale yet. The bearing to rotate from CC to Rip is "450mm Lazy Susan Aluminum 500 lbs Turntable Bearings"
found on EBay for $35.90. Made by VXB Ball bearings. Good quality best price found on EBay. Check back on the thread for the full laundry list of parts all found on EBay.

This is a build as I go project so I don't have any drawn plan. I just wanted to cut 4x8's so it needed to be 6' tall and slightly longer on each end than 4' so the panels wouldn't roll off the end.

My intention for posting this thread was to share the good fortune of finding what I consider the best pound for pound linear bearings and rails for building a panel saw. These will far out last a metal bearing and never need lube. If they need replaced they cost $1.99 for each. $8.00 total and very easy to install. Everything is aluminum no rust easy to cut with woodworker tools.

Build one dad,
Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## Desertfox (Jan 6, 2012)

Thanks Al, I'll check it out You're kind to share with us I need one sooner than this so I'll get one either on Ebay or Craigslist...I can always upgrade or do replacement Parts on them if the need be..


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## AliveByGrace (Jan 6, 2012)

Rather than having the board edge move over rollers for the rip, wouldn't it be preferable and far smoother, to use a floating platen or carriage to support the board? I'd think it would yield better cuts.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

AliveByGrace said:


> Rather than having the board edge move over rollers for the rip, wouldn't it be preferable and far smoother, to use a floating platen or carriage to support the board? I'd think it would yield better cuts.


I have chosen a wheel bearing with very hard rubber. I got them cheap so I will be using 6 on each end. I have not seen any commercial machines on the market that use a flat surface to slide the board on except a portable unit from the UK. It would be far cheaper but there must be a reason none of the manufacturers use a platen. IMHO

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## AliveByGrace (Jan 6, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> I have chosen a wheel bearing with very hard rubber. I got them cheap so I will be using 6 on each end. I have not seen any commercial machines on the market that use a flat surface to slide the board on except a portable unit from the UK. It would be far cheaper but there must be a reason none of the manufacturers use a platen. IMHO
> 
> Al
> 
> Can't make any money in wood


In that case, one word of advice… don't leave panels sitting on the rollers for protracted periods… it'll run the risk of creating flat spots that could result in erratic motion for the panel.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

AliveByGrace said:


> In that case, one word of advice… don't leave panels sitting on the rollers for protracted periods… it'll run the risk of creating flat spots that could result in erratic motion for the panel.


Thanks Grace

Can't make any money in wood


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## Firewalker (Jan 3, 2011)

Al, this is a very cool thread. Thanks for the parts list. I know I may not really NEED a panel saw. But, I bet my wife would be happy if I could figure out a way to keep her from helping me hold 4x8 sheets on the table saw. Hahaha....... bless that girl...!

I am really interested in this and it seems like the price is right. You are saying around $160 will get it all done?

If you are using a roller rail it might be nice to have a built in rule on the rail. I have bought a few for TS/RAS. Have you done that already?

Thanks again for a very useful post.

Take care 

Scott


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## Firewalker (Jan 3, 2011)

You know Al, I just thought of something. 

1. I need to go to bed.

2. Let's say you spun the lazy susan around for a rip and wanted it back to 90. If you had the unit pretty verticle the device I use to check my fence to tablel angle could be used to check the degrees from saw blad to the lower rail. It's digital and magnetic. If you were trying to do the initial set up after a few test runs to make sure it was on... maybe put a few reference marks on the lazy to help you get back on the money. Just a thought. I may not be making much sense right now but anyway.

Thanks again.

Scott


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Firewalker said:


> You know Al, I just thought of something.
> 
> 1. I need to go to bed.
> 
> ...


The susan needs to have two very positive stops. I have an idea and will put it together and post pics. It has to be adjustable like the setscrew type on my unisaw. It has to lock because the susan turns very well and I want to switch from CC to rip as fast as I do on the TS. 
I wonder how the Susan's of the world feel about this use of their name? 

Squaring everything on such a large scale has been a challenge. I test all of my squaring tools against each other for every aspect. It's time consuming task and requires checking from all angles. Even the slightest fraction of a fraction of a degree is too much. If it isn't as perfect as possible it's way off and one problem adds to another. I expected this challenge but had no idea how much time it would take.

Thanks for all your comments 

All

Can't make any money in wood


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Update on the saw. I can't express how easy this went together and how well it works. All for next to nothing. However. I would do a few things differently and some parts I may change.

Can't make any money in wood


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## Firewalker (Jan 3, 2011)

Love it


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

What would you do different? I have been watching the build and I am planning on making one for myself. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Ttharp said:


> What would you do different? I have been watching the build and I am planning on making one for myself. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


1) I don't like the two wings. I would build up one section 10' long and attach it to the upright so it could be squared to the rails together. Mine works but it would have been easer to square. It needs to be longer than 4' on each end so the full sheets don't tip at the end of your cut. mine is only 2" longer. 6" would be better.

2) I built it as I acquired the parts. This hampered the plan due to the unknown. 

3) The rollers work great but greatly added to the cost. Shaft size was metric slightly less than 1/2". I had to purchase nuts and bolts out of the over priced stuff in the drawers at the box stores. Hardware cost exceeded the price of the rollers. But rollers are best by far.
4) Purchase the shims when you get the bearings and rails. Cheap and needed. Fractions mater when squaring. 

5) Every nut and bolt must be recessed on the cutting side of the saw and lazy susan. Build as you go makes this process difficult as described in #2.

6) Securing the rails proved to NOT be as difficult as I expected. Attaching and squaring the roller rail was. By the way, they are 19" apart from inside to inside. This is tight but works fine.

7) I didn't use any metal parts. Just didn't want to take the time to procure. I might change out my lower rail and rollers somewhere down the road.

Feel free to ask questions. I don't mind helping another wood head.

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*dust collection?*

It would seem to me that the open channel in the center is a bit wide and could be shifted to the left and then covered on the backside forming a tunnel. A vac hose could be connected to the.top or bottom...? The saw is spitting up dust right into your face as you pull it down across the plywood. Is there any way to capture this? 
Very nice and well thought out design. :thumbsup: bill


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Ttharp

The system for locking the CC and rip positions works very well. 

I drilled and tapped the susan in the cross cut position then moved it to the rip position and drilled and tapped that position with a different screw. This way one screw threads in and the other screw is tightened down to make a more secure hold. Slight adjustments are made on the saw itself.

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> It would seem to me that the open channel in the center is a bit wide and could be shifted to the left and then cover on the backside forming a tunnel. A vac hose could be connected...top bottom...? The saw is spitting up dust right into your face as you pull it down across the plywood. Is there any way to capture this?
> Very nice and well thought out design. :thumbsup: bill


Shoot dad I haven't worked out the dust collection yet. I might replace the guard with one that sucks from the top. I also plan to enclose the gap and add collection at the bottom. I don't do any production work so dust isn't a big deal to me.

When ripping you need a wide recess for the blade or you end up cutting into the wood

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I started making cuts with the saw and have just about completed the build. I added a band of flat aluminum to hold the self stick rule to for ripping. A piece of plex with a hair line on it mounts on the bearings to read the measurements with. now all I need is a good plan for some garage storage cabinets and I'll be a panel cuttin fool.

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## Desertfox (Jan 6, 2012)

*I have another innovation to discuss*
I have a Delta Radial-Arm saw (220v, 3450 RPM),and wish to use it as a drill/boring/lathe/plunge router.
I'm looking for a 5/8' chuck with 5/8"-12 threads (reverse of course) to put on it. Has anyone got a source for that? I emailed "Jacobs" who make various sizes and am waiting to hear back. I feel that with this capability, I can expand my shop and have a different perspective when boring mortises in awkward stock and also by having a spindle available I can make an, easily,a lathe out of this machine. My Delta is a 2 hp monster of a a machine and powerful enough to do this . I've seen where people have used Craftsman Radial-arm saws for this, but they have a 1/2" adaptable chuck to fit their machines. I have a way of doing the lathe by simply putting a metal disc on the spindle, clamping it as if it's a normal saw blade and drilling four holes in it, and a matching plate on my stock with a recess bored into the stock to accommodate the excess spindle that extends past the installation and bolting the two plates together while supporting the stock on the other end. I have attached a plate on an old (non-working floor fan (which has a shaft and bearing on it) to the other end of the stock. The stand is adjustable so that will level the stock once set up. (I may have to additionally support the fan, however.) the Support for the gouger and rail is simply a large Pipe clamp that I will install parallel to stock and distant it just enough to do my turning. 
However, I need the chuck to do boring, routing and drilling Anyone out there who has a chuck or knows where I can fine one? Since this is experimental, at this time, I naturally want it as cheap as possible. All the chucks I find are 5/8"-16 thread. Thanks Looking for your ideas. DesertFox PS: Once I get thisset up I'll post pictures


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## Desertfox (Jan 6, 2012)

*Regarding my conversion of the radial-arm saw*
After having checked all the vendors, including Delta, I learned, I have to get a chuck with a 1/2" spindle and either have an adapter made which was quoted for $45 at a machine shop or have them re-bore the Chuck with a 5/8 -12 thread.
There are no adapters available nor are there any 5/8"-12 chucks made anywhere. according to the manufactures of all the power equipment I've check into on line and called. I'll keep you guys post of my progress.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Fox
While your ideas may be possible. The performance will be less than what is needed. A lathe needs to be super stable, heavy and have a wide speed range. The RPMs will be far to slow for a router. Your cuts would be rough and require a great deal of work to get them to finishing stages. As for boring. Just how often do you want to "bore" something. If You advance even to the intermediate level of woodworking You will find a RAS is really only good for cutting lumber in the carpenter trade. I have been woodworking since 1977 and have never owned one. You may be miles ahead by selling it and using the money to buy a good table saw and router then build on that.

Al

Can't make any money in wood


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

The panel saw is complete except the final dust collection hood. After sticking the rule on for ripping, I only needed to adjust it once. The rule for CC was spot on for the first cut. The saw has been really a fairly easy build and would recommend anyone wanting to build one use the 8020 aluminum products for the linear bearings and rails. I'm going to use this one for a while then I'm going to rip off the lower roller section and expand it to 6'. I'm not going to worry about how much it weighs or it's size. No more flipping sheets on the TS for me.

Al B

Can't make any money in wood


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

Al B Thayer said:


> Say
> If anyone has a panel saw they would like to post pics of on this thread, please do. I picked up my ideas from two units I found on the net by looking for plans. Two mainly. One had the lazy susan but his saw was very complicated and very well built. It traveled on the rip. The other saw was mostly made out of wood from a kit sold on EBay. It had good ideas but didn't look like it was going to be accurate.
> 
> I think I will have an accurate rip by pushing the sheets through on 2" roller bearings. Cost and time go way up on traveling rip units IMHO.
> ...


Very nice design and execution Al! (Bill too!) Although I have not tried it, this kit I came across on eBay while looking for the 80/20 parts looks like a pretty nice design as well. :smile:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280842188631?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Here's a little video as well..


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

BTW, I have no association with this company nor am I endorsing this product! It's just something I came across and posted for others that may come across this thread while looking to build a panel saw!


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Wow, this is great! I don’t know how I missed this. I’ve been wanting to do this for years. Thanks for sharing.

For years I’ve been trying to plan everything out and have Home Depot or Lowes cut sheets into workable pieces, but I also don’t know how many times their saw was broke. Plus sometimes I just find a sale and I don’t know what I want and have to just buy and figure it out later. 

Thanks again! :thumbsup:


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