# Joint ?



## Radco (Mar 7, 2010)

A noob ? for you all. Im going to be starting a Headboard,footboard project soon,, I found some free basic plans for my first project.. all the joints are butted and screwed,, IMO from reading here those will be a weak point,, so I want to mortise and tenon the headborad and footboard, and dado slots for the boards on the headboard,, (Farm house syle.. I will be using pine to start so my mistakes wont cost alot .. Then this will go to spare room ,Ill be making 3 sets of different styles..as I learn
the question is what is the ruel of thumb in the lenght of a tenon and mortise joint? so I know how much longer to cut my boards.
If you have thread links that would be GREAT.... Im searching the thread s as well for past related posts..
Thanks
Rich


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*rule of thumbs*

about 1/3 the thickness on the material. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Why Pine? cheap and available? I wouldn't. Poplar would be much better and if you want to stain it, it won't look bad. Most everyone starts out with Pine then only to find out it's a bugger to stain evenly. Even paint is an issue, if there are any knots. Read up on finishing pine before you start, I think you will agree.  bill


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## Radco (Mar 7, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> about 1/3 the thickness on the material. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
> 
> Why Pine? cheap and available? I wouldn't. Poplar would be much better and if you want to stain it, it won't look bad. Most everyone starts out with Pine then only to find out it's a bugger to stain evenly. Even paint is an issue, if there are any knots. Read up on finishing pine before you start, I think you will agree.  bill
> 
> YouTube - PINE with Charles Neil


Poplar Thats a great idea..I think there is a mill fairly close!!! Ill save the pine for my practice cuts..I want to only screw up the cheap stuff LOL.... I am goint to paint this one.. But future ones will be stained,once I learn how to make al the proper cuts

Thanks for the link


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## TGRANT (Jan 25, 2011)

Agree with the 1/3 thickness. Depth is up to you, deeper is better without going through the other side. The strength of the joint is in part related to the depth of the mortise. Shoulders, while not a significant glue surface, prevent wracking and should be part of the design. Glad you abandoned the screws.


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## Radco (Mar 7, 2010)

TGRANT said:


> Agree with the 1/3 thickness. Depth is up to you, deeper is better without going through the other side. The strength of the joint is in part related to the depth of the mortise. Shoulders, while not a significant glue surface, prevent wracking and should be part of the design. Glad you abandoned the screws.


THANKYOU for the info..Im thinking alittle more strength is better for a bed as they are not allways used for sleeping


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Radco said:


> THANKYOU for the info..Im thinking alittle more strength is better for a bed as they are not allways used for sleeping


That's for sure...great place to watch TV


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## Radco (Mar 7, 2010)

Brink said:


> That's for sure...great place to watch TV


 LOL yea watching TV is another option for action park :yes:


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