# Covering endgrain



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

Hi, without getting into breadboarding techniques,how thick of a glued endcap can i get away with without
expansion issues?


----------



## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

How wide is the end grain you want to cover, and what species is the wood?


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

Jim Frye said:


> How wide is the end grain you want to cover, and what species is the wood?


Hi Jim, pine,the doors are 14” wide so thinking a 1” strip top and bottom to cover the ends.glue and clamp, biscuit. Maybe dowels


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I believe I would use veneer tape. At least if there was an expansion issue it would just wrinkle up the tape. That would be easier to do over.


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

Steve Neul said:


> I believe I would use veneer tape. At least if there was an expansion issue it would just wrinkle up the tape. That would be easier to do over.


Hi Steve,cant do the tape, i want some thickness to it, looks better


----------



## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

Do it similar to this and then you will have no concerns about wood movement.


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

yomanbill said:


> Do it similar to this and then you will have no concerns about wood movement.
> 
> View attachment 422171
> 
> ...


----------



## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

Some photos and or drawings might help us. What kind of door is it? Frame and panel with rails and stiles, flush surface solid core? Lumber core, hollow core, particle board core? etc. Interior? Exterior? There shouldn't be any issues with wood movement for any of these with the possible exception of lumber core.


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

Cant seem to upload photo for some reason? But i ripped up some 1” thick pine to 3” wide,laminated together, gonna run thru the planer,crosscut and rip then add a band of 1” top and bottom to cover endgrain. Finish size 14x24


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

Sherwood said:


> Cant seem to upload photo for some reason? But i ripped up some 1” thick pine to 3” wide,laminated together, gonna run thru the planer,crosscut and rip then add a band of 1” top and bottom to cover endgrain. Finish size 14x24


i see the camera icon, i do i upload a photo from iphone?


----------



## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

So, your intent is to not just cover the end grain, but you want the 1" strip to also be a visual feature? If so, which is most important, covering the end grain or the visual feature? If this is a door, when/how will the end grain be seen? Why cover it?
The short answer to your question is that if you cover the end grain without using breadboard end techniques, the thickness will need to be pretty thin; like veneer. That is why we are wondering what end result you are trying to achieve. If you primarily want the visual feature of a cross grain "rail", you might consider a 1/8" veneer inlay.


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

Sherwood said:


> i see the camera icon, i do i upload a photo from iphone?


Placed peices together, u get the jist of it


yomanbill said:


> So, your intent is to not just cover the end grain, but you want the 1" strip to also be a visual feature? If so, which is most important, covering the end grain or the visual feature? If this is a door, when/how will the end grain be seen? Why cover it?
> The short answer to your question is that if you cover the end grain without using breadboard end techniques, the thickness will need to be pretty thin; like veneer. That is why we are wondering what end result you are trying to achieve. If you primarily want the visual feature of a cross grain "rail", you might consider a 1/8" veneer inlay.


Yes i would like to see that 1” on the top and bottom so breadboard technique it will hafto be, no shortcuts, thanks for the input


----------



## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

So this is a 14" wide solid pine door? Wood movement depends on species, how it was sawn from the log (quarter sawn, tangential, or radial), and the environment it lives in. Pine will move .001 to .002 inches per inch of width. So an estimate of about a 2/100s" of movement could be expected on your 14" door. If these doors are solid pine, I'd also be concerned about warping or cupping over time without additional cross bracing as I don't think the end caps will prevent that.


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

Jim Frye said:


> So this is a 14" wide solid pine door? Wood movement depends on species, how it was sawn from the log (quarter sawn, tangential, or radial), and the environment it lives in. Pine will move .001 to .002 inches per inch of width. So an estimate of about a 2/10s" of movement could be expected on your 14" door. If these doors are solid pine, I'd also be concerned about warping or cupping over time without additional cross bracing as I don't think the end caps will prevent that.


I see!......may have to re think this


----------



## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

A sliding dovetail glued just in the center would hold that together nicely. And, look good too. Ok. So, as the weather changes, you might see < 0.1" difference on each side. If it will be an interior door, you may not see any change at all.


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

yomanbill said:


> A sliding dovetail glued just in the center would hold that together nicely. And, look good too. Ok. So, as the weather changes, you might see < 0.1" difference on each side. If it will be an interior door, you may not see any change at all.


I 've seen the sliding dovetail while surfing for breadboarding,I may commit to this for better or worse?
See what moves? if the doors warp? I did buy kiln dried ,i did heart and bark,its not all quarter sawn.
Is it as dry as it should be? not sure


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

Jim Frye said:


> So this is a 14" wide solid pine door? Wood movement depends on species, how it was sawn from the log (quarter sawn, tangential, or radial), and the environment it lives in. Pine will move .001 to .002 inches per inch of width. So an estimate of about a 2/100s" of movement could be expected on your 14" door. If these doors are solid pine, I'd also be concerned about warping or cupping over time without additional cross bracing as I don't think the end caps will prevent that.


Solid laminated wood doors from cabinet manufactures are stable? no additional bracing...your thoughts?


----------



## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

I see some pretty straight grain and boards that fit together pretty well. IMO, if you clamp them down to a flat surface while the edge glue-up (clamped of course) dries, it should be very stable; particularly with the end caps. As stated above, you could see some minor expansion/contraction that should be manageable.


----------



## Sherwood (Jan 3, 2021)

yomanbill said:


> I see some pretty straight grain and boards that fit together pretty well. IMO, if you clamp them down to a flat surface while the edge glue-up (clamped of course) dries, it should be very stable; particularly with the end caps.


I'm goin for it,keep u posted


----------



## russtfence (Jan 3, 2021)

Ok, so I'm new to this forum and forums in general so I probably am posting this in the wrong thread. if so,, i apologize.. I own a fence company and have tried several different joinery techniques on various soft and hardwoods with varying degrees of success with warping/twisting/sagging. I'm currently building a pair of gates for a 10' opening that are 6' tall with an arch. the joints are mortise and tenon using well dried/ acclimated DPT tight grained 2"x6" pine. My question is that if my mortise is slightly too big 1/32 to 1/16th of an inch on some of the joints could I use some type of epoxy and apply from the back of the through tenons to fill the gaps and make everything snug once dried?? Thanks


----------

