# Hand planes and chisels.



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

Right now I only have an inexpensive (read cheap) set of chisels and a small block plane besides my power tools. I do occasionally use the chisels but rarely use the block plane. I'm planning (after a bit more skill building) on making some new kitchen cabinets and would like to build a drop leaf dining table and perhaps a few other pieces of furniture. My question is should I make the investment in a really good set of chisels and a high quality bench plane or two? Planes in particular can be VERY expensive for something that would most likely get limited use. Chisels probably would get more use for mortising. Correct? How much should I plan on spending on chisels and planes? They seem to vary quite a bit pricewise.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

My first thought would be to buy guide, stones,or sandpaper or whatever sharpening equipment you plan to use and learn to use proper methods to sharpen planes and chisels. A "crummy" chisel or plane can become a fantastic chisel or plane if it is sharp. The most expensive tools need to be sharp and if they are not they become "crummy" tools very quickly!!!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

xphnmn said:


> Right now I only have an inexpensive (read cheap) set of chisels and a small block plane besides my power tools. I do occasionally use the chisels but rarely use the block plane. I'm planning (after a bit more skill building) on making some new kitchen cabinets and would like to build a drop leaf dining table and perhaps a few other pieces of furniture. My question is should I make the investment in a really good set of chisels and a high quality bench plane or two? Planes in particular can be VERY expensive for something that would most likely get limited use. Chisels probably would get more use for mortising. Correct? How much should I plan on spending on chisels and planes? They seem to vary quite a bit pricewise.


Conceivably, if you're building kitchen cabinets you will likely not need either a hand plane or a specialty set of chisels. You will probably use sheet goods and if your cabinets are frameless, you may have very little solid wood other than what's used for some door designs.












 







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## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

mike1950 said:


> My first thought would be to buy guide, stones,or sandpaper or whatever sharpening equipment you plan to use and learn to use proper methods to sharpen planes and chisels. A "crummy" chisel or plane can become a fantastic chisel or plane if it is sharp. The most expensive tools need to be sharp and if they are not they become "crummy" tools very quickly!!!


My plan includes buying a Worksharp 3000. I've seen some very good reviews on then. The only problem I see with that machine is that they only offer grades of discs up to about 600 grit and from what I've read the best edge is obtained with 1200 to 2000 grit and then leather stropping. They do offer a leather wheel with honing compound for it. Comments?


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## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> Conceivably, if you're building kitchen cabinets you will likely not need either a hand plane or a specialty set of chisels. You will probably use sheet goods and if your cabinets are frameless, you may have very little solid wood other than what's used for some door designs.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
I do plan to use sheet goods but with a face frame. My router table will be used for the face frames.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

I use a veritas jig and waterstones to 6000 grit. There are many ways to sharpen. If you look back at threads you will find advice that will send you in multiple dierctions. Figure out what method you want to use and practice on what you already have. I bet you can make plane you have work.:yes:


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## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

mike1950 said:


> I use a veritas jig and waterstones to 6000 grit. There are many ways to sharpen. If you look back at threads you will find advice that will send you in multiple dierctions. Figure out what method you want to use and practice on what you already have. I bet you can make plane you have work.:yes:


 
I've tried many times to sharpen things by hand with little success. My hands are (and always have been) too unsteady to hold a consistent sharpening angle. Even with a sharpening jig and stones I get only mediocre results. That's why I plan on buying a Worksharp. It holds the tool at the right angle for you. Very little chance for error.


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## glh17 (Jul 7, 2010)

I have a WS 3000. It does a very good job on chisels. I use it to sharpen my Marples chisels and a bunch of cutters I have for some Stanley 45 combination plane. In fact, the cutters are the reason I got the WS to begin with. I got in on the great Home Depot deal around Christmas. Got the WS 3000 shipped for $78.

The standard setup includes P120. P400, and P1000 grits of sandpaper and a 3600g micro mesh. You can add a 6000 micro mesh as an accessory. I added the leather honing wheel and the polishing wheel based on a recommendation. I go from 3600 micro mesh to the leather wheel and then the polishing wheel. If I hadn't added these two wheels I'd just go with 6000 micro mesh. I suspect that would have been more than adequate. However, the standard setup will get a chisel very sharp and you should try it before you add the extra stuff. Be careful flattening the backs though.

I haven't tried the WS on plane blades other than the combination plane cutters. The standard WS 3000 will only handled chisels and planes up to 2" wide. That's fine for chisels but most of my plane blades are wider. There is a plane blade attachment, but I haven't tried it and don't plan to buy it. I put a slight camber on just about all my plane blades and you can't do that with the WS.

Here are a couple of links to the standard WS 3000 and accessories.

http://www.worksharptools.com/index...rt&page=shop.browse&category_id=92&Itemid=119

http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=127

http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=126


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## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

glh17 said:


> I have a WS 3000. It does a very good job on chisels. I use it to sharpen my Marples chisels and a bunch of cutters I have for some Stanley 45 combination plane. In fact, the cutters are the reason I got the WS to begin with. I got in on the great Home Depot deal around Christmas. Got the WS 3000 shipped for $78.
> 
> The standard setup includes P120. P400, and P1000 grits of sandpaper and a 3600g micro mesh. You can add a 6000 micro mesh as an accessory. I added the leather honing wheel and the polishing wheel based on a recommendation. I go from 3600 micro mesh to the leather wheel and then the polishing wheel. If I hadn't added these two wheels I'd just go with 6000 micro mesh. I suspect that would have been more than adequate. However, the standard setup will get a chisel very sharp and you should try it before you add the extra stuff. Be careful flattening the backs though.
> 
> ...


 
I wasn't aware that there were such fine grits available for the Worksharp! Kind of seals the deal for me, even if I have to pay full price for it and buy the accessories. I definately plan on getting the wide blade adaptor and the leather honing wheel too. I have a piece of thick plate glass I can use to flatten the backs with (wet or dry sandpaper of course) if needed. Many of the premium chisel sets (Iles-Two Cherries) claim flat backs and sharp edges from the factory so is it really necessary to hone the backs and edges right out of the box? I've read that it should be done but it just seems that a set of chisels that cost $150 or more shouldn't need that.


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## glh17 (Jul 7, 2010)

xphnmn,
There are several you tube videos demonstrating the WS 3000. IMO, John Coloccia's videos are the best. He has three about 8-9 min each. He is sharpening and reviewing a new Henry Taylor paring chisel. Here is the link to the first video titled WS TaylorReview1. The second and third videos are WS TaylorReview2 and WS TaylorReview3. You should see a link to the second and third videos on the same page as the first video. There's a decent video included With the WS, but John's is better. I really like my WS for chisels although I have some round back chisels that will not work with the WS. I use water stones for them.


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## glh17 (Jul 7, 2010)

Here are the second and third videos mentioned above.


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## rsetina (Nov 30, 2009)

xphnmn said:


> Right now I only have an inexpensive (read cheap) set of chisels and a small block plane besides my power tools. I do occasionally use the chisels but rarely use the block plane. I'm planning (after a bit more skill building) on making some new kitchen cabinets and would like to build a drop leaf dining table and perhaps a few other pieces of furniture. My question is should I make the investment in a really good set of chisels and a high quality bench plane or two? Planes in particular can be VERY expensive for something that would most likely get limited use. Chisels probably would get more use for mortising. Correct? How much should I plan on spending on chisels and planes? They seem to vary quite a bit pricewise.


I posted in the "sharpening tools" thread that I sharpened a set of craftsman chisels. Not expensive ones but they sure can be sharpened to a great edge if you take the time to do it.


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## woodguy83 (Apr 17, 2011)

First off... you don't need to go out and buy really expensive chisels. Don't go out and buy the cheapest brand either. Marples are a pretty good choice, so are some of the mid-grade Stanley's. A lot of my chisels I have picked up at flea markets and auctions. I look for good steel and length. If you see an old chisel with a Buck Bros. stamp on it BUY IT. A lot of these old chisels won't have handles so you'll have to turn one, or have a friend with a lathe turn one. I also buy all my planes second hand. In my opinion, unless you're willing to shell big bucks out for a Lie Nielson, there aren't any other planes out there worth buying new. If you hunt around you can find plenty of Bailey or Sargent planes for a reasonable price that with a little lapping and TLC, will become your best friends.

Secondly, when it comes to sharpening..... There are plenty of great(and expensive) sharpening systems out there (i.e. tormek, worksharp, etc.). However, you do not need to spend a bunch of money to have razor sharp tools. Currently I use an old Delta 23-700 Wet/Dry Grinder(that I picked up for FREE) for squaring up and taking any big knicks out of my blades or chisels. After that make sure you flatten the back of whatever you're sharpening and hone away on your choice of stone. I prefer japanese water stones over anything, there a bit of a pain in the butt because you're constantly stopping to flatten them, but they cut like nothing else. My other favorite is the DuoSharp system from DMT which is a two sided diamond stone set up. With a little help from a $14 dollar honing guide like this one from woodcraft:








which is exactly the one I use, you can get amazing results. All it takes is a little practice. Once your blades are sharp, take care of them and then touch them up once in a while on the stones or a strop and you're good to go. I have very little money invested in my set up, with outstanding results.

Once you get the basic technique down, then you can try some more advanced stuff like back beveling, or feathering off for smoothing planes. Like the old saying goes "practice makes perfect". I find sharpening my tools to be very rewarding and relaxing.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Woodguy83, You almost have same set up as myself, My wet grinder is a cheap craftsman-works great for bringing back abused steel. Veritas guide and water stones. It is an easy low cost-great results system.


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## woodguy83 (Apr 17, 2011)

mike1950 said:


> Woodguy83, You almost have same set up as myself, My wet grinder is a cheap craftsman-works great for bringing back abused steel. Veritas guide and water stones. It is an easy low cost-great results system.


I love it. My father has a Tormek set up with all the attachments and it works great, but I get the same exact results at a fraction of the cost:yes:


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