# I straightened out the cupping on my live edge walnut table...now what?



## Bryany2 (Dec 27, 2012)

I straightened out this bookmatched walnut live edge table by putting it over sawhorses, put hotplate and steaming water under it and covering it with plastic. It did the trick...it is flat once again!

But, now how do I keep it that way? I have a kiln (foam box and dehumidifier)...should I put back in the kiln and let it dry out more....putting weights on it, strapping it down etc. Or, will it bounce back to it's cupping again?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I have a customer waiting on this table......

Thank you for all your help.

Bryan


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

It's probably where it is going to be regardless of what you do to convince it to move. I'd say you'll need to machine it level by taking the high portions down to the middle - router sled comes to mind.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i have had great succes solving cupping by placing the concave side down, outside on the ground. best conditions are when the ground has moisture (after a rain), and the sun is shining on the board. this will add moisture to the concave face (expanding) and dry out the sun exopsed face (contracting). 

I go past flat as they seem to bounce back some. takes an hour or two.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*try the easiest things first*

Let it dry more inside the kiln. 
Stand it up so air can get to both sides equally well.
Tell the customer that waiting in this case will payoff.
Clamp cauls to the bottom side as it dries out...over bend if necessary.


If all else fails, and I did this once so I know it works:
I ripped kerfs up from the bottom, not all the way through,to relieve the stress about 3 or 4" apart and then glued in thin strips which were just a slip fit, no pounding then in. :no:

If you can use cross members with slotted holes to allow for width changes that may also work.

Here's some links from this site:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/warped-tabletop-49812/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/panel-glue-up-cupping-what-did-i-do-wrong-57453/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/biscuit-joiner-project-buddy-48967/


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## Bryany2 (Dec 27, 2012)

Thanks for all the help guys. I thought Woodnthings came up with the most feasible idea...thin kerfs on the underside. I cut the kerfs and the table laid down like magic!

I am not crazy about how it looks....but hey, it did the trick. I told my customer what I did and she did not seem to mind. 
I just need something descent to fill it with...I was thinking cork???

I am also going to make a kerf crossways and install angle iron.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I would only use wood*

I would fill the kerfs with a nice similar wood and as I said just a slip fit, no forcing them in. The glue will bind them in without clamps and you slide them in place. Just be liberal with your glue, but not too much and get some into the kerf with a small brush after laying down a bead into the kerf.

Don't add any dissimilar material into the kerfs, just a wood that's as close to the original as possible. Use a thin rip jig like this to get them a uniform thickness:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpfcq-QHkgk


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## Bryany2 (Dec 27, 2012)

Woodnthings....sounds good. I think this is a great way to do...this has been an aggravating issue for me and this seems to have solved the problem.

Thanks again for taking the time to contribute!


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## Bryany2 (Dec 27, 2012)

One thing that I might add is that I did get pretty aggressive with my depth of cut.....2" table and I went in about 1 3/8".


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