# dado: converting 10 inch table saw to "dado table saw".



## Sacred Scribe (May 17, 2012)

I have a large 12 inch table saw...which I use a lot; I also have a 10 inch Sears table saw onlegs from the olden "poor father" days... and would like to convert it to a permanent dado saw... but the bolt is too short to hold a fully adjusting dado blade... how can I modify the bolt to accept an additional inch or so? (other than pulling the motor apart and inserting a new bolt). Want to keep it safe._ help. _


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

When you say that you want to run a fully adjustable dado head do you mean what it usually called a 'wobble' type? Most guys would prefer a stacked dado set for cleaner cuts.

As far as your blade 'bolt'; I think you are referring to what's called the arbor. When using a dado head, it's usually acceptable to leave off the blade washer under the arbor nut to get more room. You may want to try to find a manual for your saw to see of this is okay.

Otherwise, your idea of a dedicated dado saw is a good one!

Bill


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## Hunter (May 10, 2012)

On my new DeWalt the only way to get ANY dado blade on is to leave off the inner washer.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Sacred Scribe said:


> I have a large 12 inch table saw...which I use a lot; I also have a 10 inch Sears table saw onlegs from the olden "poor father" days... and would like to convert it to a permanent dado saw... but the bolt is too short to hold a fully adjusting dado blade... how can I modify the bolt to accept an additional inch or so? (other than pulling the motor apart and inserting a new bolt). Want to keep it safe._ help. _


]
What is the model number of the Sears saw?

G


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Sacred Scribe said:


> I have a large 12 inch table saw...which I use a lot; I also have a 10 inch Sears table saw onlegs from the olden "poor father" days... and would like to convert it to a permanent dado saw... but the bolt is too short to hold a fully adjusting dado blade... how can I modify the bolt to accept an additional inch or so? (other than pulling the motor apart and inserting a new bolt). Want to keep it safe._ help. _


Model number of the Sears you want to convert would be nice info. I suspect it is one of those little direct drive bench top things on a leg stand. Likely a reason the arbor is to short for a full dado stack, the motor probably can't handle it. Take a lot of ooomph to turn a full, 10" stack. Some of those little benchtop saws like that have a much happier second life as a disc sander.:smile:


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

You could have a machinist make a new arbor for it, but I think it might cost more than the saw is worth.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Sacred Scribe said:


> I have a large 12 inch table saw...which I use a lot; I also have a 10 inch Sears table saw onlegs from the olden "poor father" days... and would like to convert it to a permanent dado saw... but the bolt is too short to hold a fully adjusting dado blade... how can I modify the bolt to accept an additional inch or so? (other than pulling the motor apart and inserting a new bolt). Want to keep it safe._ help. _


 You can remove the inside washer and just mount the dado set to the shaft. The worst thing that would happen is the inside blade would wobble making a wider dado than you want. I worked with a 10" sears table saw for five years in a cabinet shop where they used the saw to run dado's in faceframes. That was the only thing the saw was used for.


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## Sacred Scribe (May 17, 2012)

*creating a dedicated dado saw table...*

My big saw is a Porter... so I just as soon leave that blade alone. The table saw is a Ryobi 10 inch. Taking the suggestions, I went out last night (2 am) to the shop and removed what would come off the arbor on the Ryobi (not Sears, excuse me...) 10 inch, and managed to place the variable wobble/adjustable dado blade on the arbor, but only was able to screw on about 1/2 of the nut... and, that was without the outside washer that was on the original blade... the nut is against the side of the dado blade... THEN, the problem arose that the flat plate had to be carved out to allow the dado head to turn without catching it... which is where I am now. Question: what is the risk, running with only 1/2 of the threads engaged on the arbor. I tried it before completing the trimming of the plate, on a 2x4 and it worked really well, even without a complete plate being present to support the right side of the work being passed through. I know I need the plate support, but how about the arbor engagement on the screw threads? I wish it were 100 % engaged, but what if it isn't?


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Do not run the dado unless you have at least a full thread or two sticking out the other side of the nut.

Now that we know what kind of saw you have, maybe some guys on here will have ideas. One idea would be to replace the wobble dado with a stacked dado. At least then you could run maybe a 1/2" dado thickness and make more than one pass to get wider dados. 

Bill


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yep*



dodgeboy77 said:


> If your saw wouldn't have the oomph to spin a standard 8" dado stack, it could probably do okay with a 6" set. !0" dado sets are kind of few and far between.
> 
> I think the question now is whether the OP has a direct drive bench top type saw on legs or an older contractor saw. If it's the latter, he's in good shape. If it's the former. hmmm.
> 
> ...



This may be a "drive by poster" and we'll never know the answer. Machining arbors are out of the question. A full stack of dado blades 13/16 is rarely needed. Plywood these days is less than 3/4" in some cases. A 6" dado set will handle 95% of most woodworkers needs. JMO.  bill


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Both bill and Bill posted our replies just as the OP posted his! Triple simultaneous posts! Anyway, I edited mine and bill will probably do the same.

Bill


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I'm gonna guess that's a BTS10 or 16, BTS16 has a max recommended of 6" dado and 5/8" stack. BTS10 manual doesn't mention dado's. I still submit it would make a better disc sander.:smile:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Sacred Scribe said:


> My big saw is a Porter... so I just as soon leave that blade alone. The table saw is a Ryobi 10 inch. Taking the suggestions, I went out last night (2 am) to the shop and removed what would come off the arbor on the Ryobi (not Sears, excuse me...) 10 inch, and managed to place the variable wobble/adjustable dado blade on the arbor, but only was able to screw on about 1/2 of the nut... and, that was without the outside washer that was on the original blade... the nut is against the side of the dado blade... THEN, the problem arose that the flat plate had to be carved out to allow the dado head to turn without catching it... which is where I am now. Question: what is the risk, running with only 1/2 of the threads engaged on the arbor. I tried it before completing the trimming of the plate, on a 2x4 and it worked really well, even without a complete plate being present to support the right side of the work being passed through. I know I need the plate support, but how about the arbor engagement on the screw threads? I wish it were 100 % engaged, but what if it isn't?


 The only way I would use the saw with only half the nut on is if I welded the nut on. That's real dangerous. It looks like you need to rethink the dado or replace the saw with one with more shaft.


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