# How do I fill in the gaps between the planks in teak table top?



## S.am (Mar 7, 2019)

I have picked up a bargain Teak table at my local store and I want to use at my main kitchen dinner table.. that means kids will be eating and crumbs and water spills and all that. Reason was it was a bargain was it was display and had large water marks that I figured I can sand out and refinish. My main problem is with the gaps in between the planks, they are not just groves, they are gaps that stuff will go through ( this didn't occur to me in the store!) . I would like ( if possible ) some recommendation on how I can block off the gaps, but keep the look .. i.e I am not looking to hide the gaps, just fill them in so everything doesn't go down to my kitchen floor! . I have thought about plugging the depth of the gaps with cork mainly and then adding wood filler on top and finishing it off. I have also thought about adding natural rope to fill the gaps and again topping up with filler to make the top smooth and finish it. 

Will the PVA + Sanding dust mixture work with the top in the long run? I aim to seal with the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Clear Extra Thin after sanding down with 120/150 grit eventually, will this mixture take the darkening / staining that the finishing will bring to the table the same way as the rest of the table?

Is this even possible? please help!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would rip strips of a contrasting (dark) wood that would exactly fill the gaps. The table was designed with these gaps. Possibly as part of the look and possibly as a means on counter acting wood movement.


Any type putty (or similar) that you try to fill the gaps with is going to look terrible.



In reality, your best solution is to leave the table alone and sweep the floor when necessary. Or, on second thought, cover the top with a sheet of glass.


George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Nice looking table!*

The gaps are there for the expansion or contraction of the plans which would be there in any case, intended or not. If you fill them without allowing for wood movement there may be continuing issues. So, what to fill them with?









Ideally, you want something that will compress like a foam rubber or latex caulk, but those won't look good or be sanitary. On the other hand a polished aluminum bar would look nice, JMO, and it could be removed for cleaning, but it won't compress. Same goes for any wood strips. Plastic either colored or clear would be another choice. Glass would look nice but it's very fragile and has zero compression. 



OK, none of those seem to be the answer, so let's deal with the joinery. One thing that occurs to me is to make a T section by making/routing a small flat on either side of the gap. If you insert a T shaped section of any material it will not slide through and fall out the bottom. It could be removed for cleaning.....


Another solution is to fill the gap with an epoxy, either clear or colored and just let nature take it's course. Sorry if I'm not much help..... :sad2:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Get a plastic table cloth for every day use, placemats and a runner down the center if you are entertaining and want to show off the table. Unless it is done really well any fix is going to look like a fix, maybe just plan on cleaning the grooves periodically if accidents happen.


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

I would go with the Glass. Get the edges beveled.
johnep


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Hi S.am,

*I would have to second GeorgeC's advise on this one...*

I just built a counter top island about 5 months ago from "pallet oak" scraps laid out exactly like this table, but without the gaps. 

This "triple breadboard" style is becoming more and more common. I like it because it lets the "green wood" I tend to use move all over the place until it resides to settle down. Then I can just take it apart (no glue just joinery) and tweak it where it may need it.

I am fairly certain that table was designed to have the gaps. Trying to..."make them go away"...isn't advised unless you plan on do a complete deconstructions, which is possible, but more work...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Which of the 3?*



GeorgeC said:


> *I would rip strips of a contrasting* *(dark) wood that would exactly fill the gaps*. The table was designed with these gaps. Possibly as part of the look and possibly as a means on counter acting wood movement.
> 
> 
> Any type putty (or similar) that you try to fill the gaps with is going to look terrible.
> ...





Jay C. White Cloud said:


> Hi S.am,
> 
> *I would have to second GeorgeC's advise on this one...*



which advice? :|


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> which advice? :|


Well...:vs_worry:...I thought, on this one it was obvious...???...All his points and advise was pretty darn solid...worthy of consideration...

Filling the gaps with "friction fit" fillets of wood is probably a really good start (contrast or not.) These just technically "float" in the space and don't hinder (typically) a piece like this as it has already done all it primary moving about. I've used this method a number of time over the years to good effect in floors, tables and any place a gap has formed that needs a filling but still needs to accommodate movement to some degree...

He addressed the design...The gaps are "designed" into it...

He addressed the "putty" as not being a wise choice...and it's not...neither is epoxy as than is no different that a more solid putty...

Lastly a suggestion of a sheet of glass...too gaudy for my taste, nevertheless, it is a common and practical solution as is just sweeping the floor...which is rather analog and not a bad idea...

All in all...I would leave the design alone and grab a broom...:vs_laugh:...that was the best advise of a group of good ones...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*We have a disagreement .....*



S.am said:


> I have picked up a bargain Teak table at my local store and I want to use at my main kitchen dinner table.. that means kids will be eating and crumbs and water spills and all that. Reason was it was a bargain was it was display and had large water marks that I figured I can sand out and refinish. My main problem is with the gaps in between the planks, they are not just groves, they are gaps that stuff will go through ( this didn't occur to me in the store!) .* I would like ( if possible ) some recommendation on how I can block off the gaps, but keep the look .. i.e I am not looking to hide the gaps, just fill them in so everything doesn't go down to my kitchen floor! .* I have thought about plugging the depth of the gaps with cork mainly and then adding wood filler on top and finishing it off. I have also thought about adding natural rope to fill the gaps and again topping up with filler to make the top smooth and finish it.
> 
> 
> Is this even possible? please help!





Jay C. White Cloud said:


> Well...:vs_worry:...I thought, on this one it was *obvious*...*???*...All his points and advise was pretty darn solid...worthy of consideration...
> 
> Filling the gaps with "friction fit" fillets of wood is probably a really good start (contrast or not.) These just technically "float" in the space and don't hinder (typically) a piece like this as it has already done all it primary moving about. I've used this method a number of time over the years to good effect in floors, tables and any place a gap has formed that needs a filling but still needs to accommodate movement to some degree...
> 
> ...



Probably will not be acceptable to the OP, ..... obviously .... I donno?:vs_cool:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

That is just going to be a re-occurring problem what ever you do to try to patch it. It's difficult enough to glue to teak when the wood is freshly milled. This table will have a certain amount of finish on the edges in the gaps that would prevent anything from adhering very well. Certainly PVA glue you couldn't expect it to adhere. If it were me I would refinish the table top to get rid of the water spots and leave the gaps alone. Then I like johnep's suggestion to put a sheet of glass over the top. This would make the top functional without changing the appearance or causing other problems trying to patch it.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

S.am said:


> ...I would like ( if possible ) some recommendation on how I can block off the gaps, but keep the look .. i.e I am not looking to hide the gaps, just fill them in so everything doesn't go down to my kitchen floor! . I have thought about plugging the depth of the gaps with cork mainly and then adding wood filler on top and finishing it off. I have also thought about adding natural rope to fill the gaps and again topping up with filler to make the top smooth and finish it...


Ya know S.am...I missed your rope and cork idea on the first read...Sorry about that...

I'm not sure of your woodworking skills...???...So my advise may not be that good for you...but after re-reading your desire to get rid of those gaps I can revisit a few more options. First, you easiest solution is to learn to live with them...its a nice table as is...

IF...???...you have the skills (and tools hand or power) you could rebuild the table...

Next is your cork or rope idea...That is a pretty good one. Its in the family of caught or putty...but has more merit for a number of reason...

"Oakum" and methods of using it in applications like this is a very long and well proven history...IF...you think rebuilding is out of your skill sets...and...you can live with the gaps...We can explore the "rope" idea...(aka "oakum") and the methods of using it as a solution to you challenge...Let me know...???


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## WeebyWoodWorker (Jun 11, 2017)

Glass top is the best thing I can think of. Very nice table you've picked up mate, I like it.


-T


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I would cut the ends and center of the table and free up the boards.
then I would do 2 separate glue-ups. One for each set of boards. 
Then I would route or some other way of reclaiming the center and 2 ends and turn the these into new breadboard ends and center.


Tony B


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## S.am (Mar 7, 2019)

Jay C. White Cloud said:


> Ya know S.am...I missed your rope and cork idea on the first read...Sorry about that...
> 
> I'm not sure of your woodworking skills...???...So my advise may not be that good for you...but after re-reading your desire to get rid of those gaps I can revisit a few more options. First, you easiest solution is to learn to live with them...its a nice table as is...
> 
> ...


Love all the ideas flowing here .. To address the question of my wood work skills, they are very limited to sanding and refinishing. As a petite woman, I am rather limited in how much I can reconstruct this or any table... unless it was coffee table  I am self taught and in the past ripped out carpets and taken years of paint from my stairs and refinished those to an acceptable stand (to me of course). 

The glass on top idea isn't my cup of tea and I quiet like the feel of wood and the warm look and feel of it. My husband agrees that we should learn to live with the gaps and I should sweep the floor ever so often ( very old fashion he is!). 

Please do tell me about this 'Oakum'. You have all my attention. My intention is to finish it with 'osmo wood wax finish clear extra thin'. I wanted to stain the table darker, but have been advised that Teak might not take the stain too well. I have to test this on the underside in the meanwhile tell me about Oakum .. Would the rope take the coating and be hygenic or is there something else that would work?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

One other note, any time you refinish wood it should start with a methylene chloride type paint and varnish remover. Trying to sand the finish off wood tends to remove what is on the surface and leaves a lot of spots which there is finish penetrated into the wood. On raw wood the difference most of the time is impossible to see but shows up when you put the new finish on especially if a wood stain is used. The spots still sealed with the old finish doesn't take the stain well.

Then on modern furniture there is a greater chance the top is made of a cheaper wood which has been veneered. In that case the less sanding you could do the better.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*What is oakum?*

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=oakum


It's a fiber like rope that's impregnated with a tar traditionally used to seal the seams between planking on ships. It ain't gonna be pretty and it ain't gonna be easy to keep clean. A different type of rope, cotton or synthetic, minus the tar would be better for filling the gaps. It would be a "stop gap" measure for sure.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=automotive+door+gasket
























There are gaskets used on household doors and automotive applications that would compress into the crack and be made of a durable and waterproof material. Depending on the shape of the gasket, it would press in then "expand" to fit the width. Typically, they come in black, and not different colors. In the old days, folks used a brass weatherstrip to seal out drafts which may work also and give a brighter look to the table top:


https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=brass+weatherstrip


https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-36-in-x-84-in-Flat-Profile-Door-Jamb-Brite-Dip-Gold-Weatherstrip-Kit-69935/205545479?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25H%7C25-4_BUILDERS_HARDWARE%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000035978695%7c58700004046980559%7c92700037059910574&gclid=CjwKCAiAwojkBRBbEiwAeRcJZMszIYwY87QV-eNfeXNp5fRKPEco-SpEaXXAxctsNbOquRxdgr9tuxoCObwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

Not that you would want to use it, but there is a foam product called "Caulk Saver" that fills large gaps before you caulk them.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100152937-_-100159362-_-N

I think you are over thinking the gaps, are you honestly that messy? Use place mats, eat over your plate, be careful when you wipe the table down. Shouldn't be nearly as much of an issue as you think it is IMO.

Nothing you will do to that table will look right, it looks good as is, let it be.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*One final suggestion .....*

On shoot summ's idea of leaving the table top as is, my idea is for underneath :surprise2:
Make a downdraft table out of it so you can just brush the crumbs into the gaps and they will "magically" disappear into the shop vac. A bit noisy for sure, but effective. When the conversation at the table gets out of hand just remotely turn on the shop vac and you won't be able to hear any conversations. :grin:


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

Oakum was old rope teased about into strands for caulking wooden planking on ships. The job of turning old rope into oakum was often done by prisoners.

Picking Oakum was regarded as a very low occupation.
johnep


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

S.am said:


> ...Please do tell me about this 'Oakum'. You have all my attention. My intention is to finish it with 'osmo wood wax finish clear extra thin'. I wanted to stain the table darker, but have been advised that Teak might not take the stain too well. I have to test this on the underside in the meanwhile tell me about Oakum .. Would the rope take the coating and be hygienic or is there something else that would work?


Oakum methods can be made as "hygienic" as you would like. 

As for the "stain" or coloring your wood darker, you may wish to look into aniline dyes also as a method to coloring the wood the way you wish?

Oakum methods are quite varied in a nature today and historically...It is the original "caulk" and probably why I still like it and the applied use its various forms from simple plant fiber to wool, recycled denim or wool cloth and related styles. I'm not a fan of modern materials for the most part unless being applied to another "modern material."

You goal for this table (and the way it looks too...:laugh2 is very much like a ship's deck, which is just one of the many locations Oakum was and is employed.

There is a lot of decent information on the Internet about Oakum (tarred or white.) It is used in everything from plumbing and masonry to timber framing and ship building...as well as...a broad range of other applicable applications like your table...

As to exact method, I could expand on several germane systems you may find useful? Take a look at what you can find on line, and if you think you would like the "rustic look" of a cloth and/or fiber material in those fissures let me know and we could explore them...???


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## S.am (Mar 7, 2019)

Jay C. White Cloud said:


> You goal for this table (and the way it looks too...:laugh2 is very much like a ship's deck, which is just one of the many locations Oakum was and is employed.


Thank you Jay. I will thoroughly research Oakum methods before I do anything to this table. Although it seems we have ship deck on our hands for sure. We noticed a sag in the middle. My kids sat with their marbles all rolling right to the middle of table :| Its a 2.4 metre table, that roll is very irritating. Me thinks I should start a new thread for this problem before considering any gap filling (if at all) ?


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

I think the look of this table has character and should be preserved as is.


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## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

I think this table was designed to be used out doors. The slots are for expansion/contraction. I wouldn't even consider staining it. The water stains are just part of it's history. The glass top seems like the best solution, not cheap but fixes all the problems. Perfectly hygienic.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Larry42 said:


> I think this table was designed to be used out doors. The slots are for expansion/contraction. I wouldn't even consider staining it. The water stains are just part of it's history. The glass top seems like the best solution, not cheap but fixes all the problems. Perfectly hygienic.


All in all...I agree with most of that...

I too think the table was designed to be outside. Not only for the "deck planking" style (aka gaps in boards to facilitate dry out...not primary wood movement as this species is rather stable in the current format) to the wood species selection chosen itself which is very rot resistant and stable in wet conditions...

As to the "glass top" I personally find that look rather gauche and gaudy, but that's just me...However, the OP too, has clearly stated she does not care for that look either, so I will respect that design parameter as requested...

The coloring also is a "style preference" and well within the spectrum of acceptable practice for wood of all kinds. S.am has offered a preference for a darker top on the table, and if done well (I recommend a selection of aniline dyes) this too can be achieved in a tasteful manner...


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

gmercer_48083 said:


> I think the look of this table has character and should be preserved as is.


Hi Gary,

To be sure...and I think you know me by now...I don't "tamper" with historic works of any kind unless there is an extremely good reason...!!!...and even then I do it with clear reasoning and intent...

It this case, the table is a contemporary piece (aka within my life time.) As such, a new owner has aspiration beyond the current design rendition. 

I personally do not like altering someone else's work and never touch altering "art." This table however, strikes me as a utilitarian piece and not an "art piece." If the current owner chooses to augment and/or alter the design, I feel obligated to facilitate the best method(s) possible for that within there personal aesthetic (not that of my own belief or stabilization.)

Hope that made sense?


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

S.am said:


> Thank you Jay. I will thoroughly research Oakum methods before I do anything to this table. Although it seems we have ship deck on our hands for sure. We noticed a sag in the middle. My kids sat with their marbles all rolling right to the middle of table :| Its a 2.4 metre table, that roll is very irritating. Me thinks I should start a new thread for this problem before considering any gap filling (if at all) ?


That is totally up to you Sam...a new thread or this one...many here would be glad to help anyway they can...

If you have a pronounced "sag" in the table, then there is some design flaws to be addressed for sure...

Better pictures will most certainly help in figuring that challenge out, but we are now perhaps rapidly getting into some rather heady woodworking (???) that may be outside your current skill sets and/or a need for you to get more involved with the project than you expected?

Either way...Help is here...:grin:


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## S.am (Mar 7, 2019)

Thank you Gary, Larry and Jay! I love my rustic finds and almost never like to tamper with anything old thats stable, has patina, character and history. My home is full of treasure finds that are a mix of mostly old and semi new finds. I realise this table is meant for gardens, and some research into it tells me its built using recycled teak by a company called 'LIFE' in Netherlands. But, there is nothing stopping us from using it internally, is there ?

My 3 girls are still young, messy and they will use it, abuse it (with glitter, glue and all sorts) and we will have a lot of fun artwork, dinners and projects going on this table. I would ideally have liked to left it as it was, but the reason for my wanting to refinish the top are as follows;

1- my kids will eat off the top of this table and I understand that some outdoor stains, finishes are not food safe

2- whatever finish this table already has is not great .. a water spill, an oily fish finger, crumbs left from croissants.. etc are leaving marks, even though they are picked up and cleared within a minute! Imagine oil stain from a curry will do to it! Also, in spite of me giving it a good clean with mild detergent , some sort of stain comes off every time we wipe it. I personally find that stressful but I have to get over my OCD and I'd be happier with the stains we gather on this table after the top was sanded, darken, sealed and food safe.

3- my kitchen is a huge open plan living room and most our guests like to eat here and this table is too nice to cover up with table cloths and hide away, at the same time. If we liked glass tables, I'd just buy one and not bother with covering perfectly good wood with glass. Also maybe the glass might highlight that the table has a mild sag (?)

I have accepted that gaps may not be fillable and we can get a few good years out of this table, provided it doesn't split in half while I'm changing the lightbulbs stood on it (!). I have started a new thread ( with pictures) for the sag, incase someone like me was looking to find a solution 

ps: I am certainly not equipped to take on any heavy woodwork projects, no means or access to such tools unfortunately and zero experience.


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