# New guy looking for advice on how to make fly box (picture included)



## fishtacos (Nov 25, 2012)

Looking to make something like this: 










Here's another link: http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/12896/reclaimed-teak-wood-fly-box


I would like to use metal hinges. Use magnets to keep it shut. 

What wood should I use?
What tools do I need?


Also, if I wanted to put someone's initials on the outside, what would be the best way to go about that?


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

It can be done simply with handsaw, chisel, screw driver and some sandpaper or with your choice of a wide assortment of power tools. Use any wood you want. Cut out the box shape in thick enough material, cut the lid off, hollow out the recess, let in the hinges, install the magnets, put some finish on it. If you use something like small circular rare earth magnets, you may want a drill and bit to match. I like my fly boxes to stand up to a hard crash on the rocks and an unexpected swim, in my pocket or more desirably, not.


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I would start by having the fly watch a couple of Rocky movies! I'm sorry I could not resist.
Tom


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## fishtacos (Nov 25, 2012)

I got some poplar, hinges, and rare earth magnets. I also have a drill bit to make the recess for the magnet. 

A few questions

1. I have a router to make the recess. I don't have a router table. What is the best way to go about doing the recess? Should I attempt to make a router table?

2. What sanding/varnish will make it look the best?

3. Any ideas on how to get the initials on the outside?


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## lucas.j.dunton (Feb 27, 2008)

You can make this pretty easily with a handheld router. Say you want the box 3"x5". Take 2 pieces of hardwood that size and 5/8" thick. Use a roundover bit to shape the outside edges. Next take a sheet of 3/4" MDF about 12"x18" or so. Cut a 3"x5" hole in the center of the sheet of MDF. You can then, one at a time, put each side of the box into the hole in the MDF. Using a Guide bushing on the router you can achieve the wall thickness desired. 
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/understanding-guide-bushings/?page=1

Be careful with the magnets, use really small ones or you will need a screwdriver to pry em apart. 

I would use barrel hinges for ease.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2003267/783/miniature-barrel-hinge.aspx

I would go with a more grained hardwood rather than poplar. Walnut, Cocobolo, Tulipwood, Maple, or Black Locust would be my top choices. I would just finish with BLO or teak oil, or a danish oil. 

The initials would best be done with a woodburner.


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## lucas.j.dunton (Feb 27, 2008)

I have some small pieces kicking around. I may need to whip up some of these for xmas.


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## fishtacos (Nov 25, 2012)

Lucas, I can't thank you enough. I"m going to try to digest this information and come back with any further questions. If you do end up making some I'd love to see your work.

Ben


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## fishtacos (Nov 25, 2012)

So here is what I was thinking. Please poke holes in my plan. 


1. Get MDF and cut an opening the size of the pit that I want in the box.
2. Clamp piece of wood that will become one side of the box to the bottom of the MDF.
3. Clamp MDF to something stationary.
4. Measure depth of MDF and bit and get guide bushing so that the proper amount of bit is doing the cutting. (Ie depth of MDF 3/4" and router bit is let's say 1" and I want the pit to be 1/8" then I would need a 1/4" guide bushing).


Okay so making the cuts on the outside of the MDF, I get that - the bushing will rest on the MDF. What about the cuts in the middlere there there's nothing to rest on?


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Scroll saw or fret saw. Drill small hole, insert blade and saw away.


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## byrd (Nov 17, 2010)

fishtacos said:


> So here is what I was thinking. Please poke holes in my plan.
> 
> 
> 1. Get MDF and cut an opening the size of the pit that I want in the box.
> ...


The opening in the MDF should be the overall size of the box, you want to house the piece in the MDF to hold it while you route.

The clamps will get in the way of your router.

The guide bushings are not for depth but to give you the reveal space between the hollowed out portion and the flat portion that will meet between the lid and the box. Use the routher to get your depth.

I may be wrong, but I think that is what the artice is saying.


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## Flatlander (Oct 14, 2012)

I may be way out in left field on this one but I would not make this box out of one solid piece of wood.
I am not trying to bash your idea but these are my thoughts.

For one thing, unless your wood is perfectly seasoned and stable when you hollow out the two sides you are liable to get some warping and twisting with humidity changes. 
I am not a fisherman but it seems to me the wood might get wet? Teak is resistant to moisture so you might want to think about an appropriate wood to use.

When hollow the wood out two sides are going to be end grain, it might make for weak sides of the box.

How about making the box out of thin wood 1/4" or so, miter the corners. 
Maybe a frame and panel top, woodburn or carve initials on the top to personalize.


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## byrd (Nov 17, 2010)

dont know were you are located., but I have some spanish cedar that would be a good wood for this project. Its very stable and rot resistant.

you are not out in left field. I have seen them the way you are talking about with the miters, just make sure to use exterior wood glue if you go that route.


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