# Always be careful



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I just found this piece of 12"X4"X1/4" plywood that I was cutting as a backing board for box joint cutting, a few months ago.
I pushed it through with a stick, the saw caught it just as it went through, and ejected it with considerable force.
It broke the bulbs out of a light fixture 15ft away. Then dissapeared in the far corner until now.
I stay out of the blast zone as much as possible, so it missed me by 6"
Now I use 2 pushers, and try to stay a little further aside!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Benny Blanco said:


> I just found this piece of 12"X4"X1/4" plywood that I was cutting as a backing board for box joint cutting, a few months ago.
> I pushed it through with a stick, the saw caught it just as it went through, and ejected it with considerable force.
> It broke the bulbs out of a light fixture 15ft away. Then dissapeared in the far corner until now.
> I stay out of the blast zone as much as possible, so it missed me by 6"
> Now I use 2 pushers, and try to stay a little further aside!


Which edge were you cutting? Using just sticks likely allowed it to get off the fence just enough to get caught. Firmly guiding on the fence is necessary for safe cuts. You might have been watching the blade instead of concentrating on that edge on the fence.









 







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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I think I was doing a little bit of everything wrong.
The blade was probably too low.
I was pushing the piece through with just a stick at the rear.
Had bad fence alignment ect.

The piece shown here was against the fence, I was trimming the fingers off it, from using it to help with blow-out from cutting box joints.

It happened so fast, Just as it almost cleared the rear of the blade, "BANG". Took the push stick out of my hand, knocked me back a little.

I wasnt expecting a little piece of wood to do that

Anyway, it was one of many wake up calls I have had so far.

I probably was watching the blade, instead of the fence.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*long side against the fence I hope?*

A push "stick" on a narrow and light weight piece is not effective in pressing down as well as forward and in towards the fence.
A push "shoe" or block would be better as it can push down forward and in at the same time. Like this: 
http://www.provenwoodworking.com/tablesaw-push-stick.html

Something like this:


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Yes, that is what I now do.
The videos 2nd example with the red push stick is close to what happened, except the work lifted at the very end of the cut, then caught by the blade and flung out.

Looking at my green board, when the saw caught the corner, it pivoted and the blade dug in at an angle, turning it into a high speed frisbe.


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

Glad you weren't hurt. I can tell you that the little bit I spent on a Grripper has been well worth the peace of mind I get when I'm using it.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Well, I was going by the directions in my saws manual- "Use a push stick for smaller pieces":wacko:
I certainly have a lot to learn.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Check You Tube*

For the most part there are good how to videos on there. There some crackerjacks also but they standout cause they are so obvious. 

thintz has some good ones and he's a member here.
http://www.youtube.com/user/thintz12?feature=results_main

Woodworker's Guild of America also:
http://www.youtube.com/user/wwgoaeditor?feature=results_main


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

IMO using a splitter or riving knife is just as important as using the right type of push stick or push block. Many kickback events will be prevented that way.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Was the blade guard on the saw at the time?









 







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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

In 1969 I did exactly the same thing; but was using just my hands to push. The fence was poorly adjusted and the saw threw the board along with my hand across the blade. I did not loose any fingers; but it took a lot of stitches.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

My saw is a Rockwell model 10 contractors saw, with zero safety features.
I dont think there is any reasonable way to fit a splitter/riving knife to it. The manual shows no blade gaurd, but, I think one could be done.
The fence is the JetLock round rail thing, but, I figuered out its hidden mystery, and have it working good.
I have been wanting a more solid built saw, where the adjustments are easier, and less likely to drift "with better fence". 
The contractors saws entire drive system is held to the bottom of the table with 4-5/16" bolts, they can only be tightened just so much, the blade alignment slowly drifts out again.
I like old iron machines, but, I think I will get a new saw with the splitter/riving knife ect. Keep the contractors saw just for box joints.

The link woodnthings bill posted above, thinz purposely made a saw eject a small piece of wood, and he almost got sawed himself.
thinz suggest keeping hands a foot from the blade.

I have had other mishaps ripping, and pieces of wood breaking out of larger boards suddenly going airborn. Most everything I am doing is with salvage wood, I have learned to spot weak spots, and just take a hand saw to cut those areas out.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

In general I believe that 1/4" plywood is the most dangerous material to cut on the table saw. I think because it is a little warpy. I have had some pieces ejected at me, one which bruised my hip quite well.

I agree, one must always be careful.

Bret


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Benny Blanco said:


> My saw is a Rockwell model 10 contractors saw, with zero safety features.
> I dont think there is any reasonable way to fit a splitter/riving knife to it. The manual shows no blade gaurd, but, I think one could be done.


All table saws, IIRC, come new with blade guards. You may be able to order a replacement. You might check eBay and CL. If not there is a forum member (from another forum) that makes them to fit a wide variety of saws...*http://www.thesharkguard.com/*









 







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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Benny Blanco said:


> My saw is a Rockwell model 10 contractors saw, with zero safety features.
> I dont think there is any reasonable way to fit a splitter/riving knife to it. The manual shows no blade gaurd, but, I think one could be done.
> The fence is the JetLock round rail thing, but, I figuered out its hidden mystery, and have it working good.
> I have been wanting a more solid built saw, where the adjustments are easier, and less likely to drift "with better fence".
> ...


I think the Biesemyer splitter for a delta contractors saw could be retrofitted. You could also make a zero clearance insert, and then put the stock insert back in and raise the blade to full height and drop the new insert over it. Bring the fence up against the edge of your new insert and lock it in place. Now lift off the zero clearance insert and cut a slot in it that ends about half inch behind the blade slot. You now have a slot the width of your kerf that you can glue a splitter into. If you are using a blade with an 1/8th kerf you can glue in a piece of lexan 

To stop the trunions from moving get a set of "pals". They mount over the studs and give you screw adjustment of the rear trunion. On my Delta contractors saw, I counter bored the front trunion just a little and installed spherical washers and epoxy to keep it rock solid.

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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Thanks for those tips, and a great explanation!


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## JoeNY (May 8, 2012)

Just my humble opinion from just about 20 years of amatuer woodworking - if you are cutting plywood, you want the blade at least 1/2" above the material to avoid climbing, and never use a push stick for anything wider than 6" - from 6" to 9" wide those planer push pads work better and at wider than 9", your hands are the best choice. As for balde guards and plywood, nothing beats either the Biesmeyer or Excalibur. I have the Excalibur.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I think you are right joe, I had the teeth of the blade just coming through.
Oh well, I read somewhere its safer to do that:huh:
I have an expanding array of push blocks now, and found a splitter that fits the saw.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Benny Blanco said:


> I think you are right joe, I had the teeth of the blade just coming through.
> Oh well, I read somewhere its safer to do that:huh:
> I have an expanding array of push blocks now, and found a splitter that fits the saw.


I'm convinced that the blade low school of thought, is an old wives tale. I'm convinced that somewhere in the distant past someone siad it is safer to keep the blade low. And, in the intervening years iy has become part of the unquestioned wisdom of woodworking. Repeated without thought by everyone. 

I've analyzed the forces, and I'm convinced that the blade should stay all the way up, unless you are making a cut that requires the blade to be low. 

The low blade increases the force back against operator, and decreases the down force that helps keep the board on the table. At the same time the distance the work needs to lift to get to the top of the blade is decreased, increasing the probability of kick-back.

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## JoeNY (May 8, 2012)

jigs-n-fixtures said:


> I've analyzed the forces, and I'm convinced that the blade should stay all the way up, unless you are making a cut that requires the blade to be low.
> 
> The low blade increases the force back against operator, and decreases the down force that helps keep the board on the table. At the same time the distance the work needs to lift to get to the top of the blade is decreased, increasing the probability of kick-back.


The low blade advantage is two fold: you are less likely to contact the blade with any of your body parts; and there are more teeth cutting, so it in theory is easier on the blade.

That being said, I keep my blades about 1/4" above the work for ripping hardwood and 1/2" for plywoods.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

There are more teeth in contact and thus more heat, thus it is more damaging to the teeth. the lower the blade the faster it gets dirty. 

The lower blade is harder to see. The nice shiney blade is pretty easy to see. 

I'll standby my assertion that high blades are safer.

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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

Benny Blanco said:


> My saw is a Rockwell model 10 contractors saw, with zero safety features.
> I dont think there is any reasonable way to fit a splitter/riving knife to it. The manual shows no blade gaurd, but, I think one could be done.
> The fence is the JetLock round rail thing, but, I figuered out its hidden mystery, and have it working good.
> I have been wanting a more solid built saw, where the adjustments are easier, and less likely to drift "with better fence".
> ...


Try something like this.

http://in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html

I had a contractors saw that drifted out of alignment constantly. This helped align and hold the trunion in place.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I was able to quickly fabricate simular adjusters, I have them on both front and rear trunions, should solve that problem.
My best ideas, I stole from others.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

jigs-n-fixtures said:


> There are more teeth in contact and thus more heat, thus it is more damaging to the teeth. the lower the blade the faster it gets dirty.
> 
> The lower blade is harder to see. The nice shiney blade is pretty easy to see.
> 
> ...


I have been in the building industry for about 1/4 of a century now and in my experience I would tend to agree. I am not sure where the rational comes from that says a table saw blade should be set as low as possible. When using a circular saw to rip or cross cut I always have the blade as deep as possible. I have found it is a quicker and superior cut. 

The only advantage I see to a low blade is less blade to hurt yourself on.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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