# Attaching solid wood edge to 3/4 ply



## Ronnie1a (May 24, 2009)

I want to use 3/4 ply for a small table top but use 3/4 by 3/4 solid wood around the edges to hide the plywood edge and give it a smooth finish. I would like to use something a little larger than 3/4 to glue on the edges and use a router to cut it down to the exact size of the ply after I have glued it on.

I have tried this before and cannot keep the router perfectly square and always end up cutting into the plywood usually taking off the outside veneer on the plywood. If I clamp on another piece of wood to give the router a wider edge the 2nd clamped piece is not square since it is against the too wide solid piece I glued on.

How do I do this? (Hope my description makes sense.)


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Glue and clamp the edge on. When ready, use a trim router with a trim bit with a bearing. Run the base of the router on the edge, and have the bearing run on the plywood. Don't extend the bit too far. You only need the bearing to ride on the plywood and have just enough cutting edge to level the edge. 

The further the bit is extended the more possibility it can be tipped.


















.


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## Ronnie1a (May 24, 2009)

*Makes perfect sense*

Why didn't I think of that?


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## jodasm (Oct 25, 2012)

I screw a piece of wood to the bottom of router only covering half then a straight bit, and slide the piece I screwed on, on the plywood trimming with bottom of straight bit almost flush, then orbital sand flush


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

I edge band plywood a lot and faced the same issue. I made the jig shown in this video that fits on the router table. I keep it around the shop, I use it all the time. Easy and cheap to make. I used bolts and t-nuts to attach it to the t-track in my router table fence and just counter sunk the bolt heads into the face of the jig.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMw5_AUGw74


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

EdS said:


> I edge band plywood a lot and faced the same issue. I made the jig shown in this video that fits on the router table. I keep it around the shop, I use it all the time. Easy and cheap to make. I used bolts and t-nuts to attach it to the t-track in my router table fence and just counter sunk the bolt heads into the face of the jig.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMw5_AUGw74


 
Like the jig you made there. 

:thumbsup:


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

I should have been more clear, that is not me in the video, I just copied his jig.


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

I'm assuming the bearing is flush with the top of the jig. 


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I haven't found a better method than this. No misses no gouges no oops.









I ran about 5 miles of edging on 45 sheets of walnut using this method after I tried all the rest.









Just a fuzz to sand.









Worth the build.

Al


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Geez, Al, they just keep coming. When you going to write a book???

I assume the bit is flush with the bottom of B. That's a sweet idea - it's going into my "tool kit". 

Is guide D really necessary? I assume it's to keep the jig/router assembly from "hopping" but can't you just go back over any of those. I guess if you were doing 5 miles, it makes it go faster but for the occasional couple of shelves it doesn't seem like a big deal.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

PhilBa said:


> Geez, Al, they just keep coming. When you going to write a book???
> 
> I assume the bit is flush with the bottom of B. That's a sweet idea - it's going into my "tool kit".
> 
> Is guide D really necessary? I assume it's to keep the jig/router assembly from "hopping" but can't you just go back over any of those. I guess if you were doing 5 miles, it makes it go faster but for the occasional couple of shelves it doesn't seem like a big deal.


The guild greatly improves your accuracy and speed. The bit will actually wonder all the way down the cut. With the fence it's a one time shot. It also leaves a really smooth cut. The other method looks like the planer cut.

Al


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Actually, I was asking about the guide (D) that goes under the work piece. I totally agree with need for a fence.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

PhilBa said:


> Actually, I was asking about the guide (D) that goes under the work piece. I totally agree with need for a fence.


That's actually the fence that rides against the glued on piece. It's adjustable to keep the 3/4" bit in the center of the wood. I was using 3/4 by 3/4 so I wanted the bit to take it all in one pass









This is how I made it. The recess works like a jointer. The cutout is where the proud wood enters. After the bit is no concern. You need the fence.

Al


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Very efficient. You're full of good jig ideas, Al. 


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

BZawat said:


> Very efficient. You're full of good jig ideas, Al.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using woodworkingtalk.com


Thanks.

You know our Ben Franklin never put a patten on anything he designed. He thought it was best to share.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> Thanks. I had help from Woodenthings and he found the basic idea on the net. Then we rapped about it and I ended up with this version.
> 
> You know our Ben Franklin never put a patten on anything he designed. He thought it was best to share.
> 
> Al


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

You could use a lipping planner.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ncCCPJR-9x0


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Keith Mathewson said:


> You could use a lipping planner.
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ncCCPJR-9x0


I believe they cost over $1000. And they're not even green.

Al


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## Nidahowoodworker (Oct 16, 2014)

I find a dowelling jig helps get the edgeband close to perfect, but I also love my lipping planer. At the time I purchased it, 8 years ago the virutex was 500.00. It seemed expensive at the time but has payed for itself since.


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## ducbsa (Jul 6, 2014)

You can consider only trimming the top side and have a 1/8" overhang for the lower edge.


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