# Sanding sealer



## Phil Hill (Apr 28, 2016)

I'm building reclaimed wood guitar stands. After talking to a few people I think my process will be 3 coats of linseed and 3 coats of Deft satin. My question is do I use the sealer before or after I apply the boiled linseed oil. Still trying to figure out when to use sanding sealer...before or after applying boiled linseed oil. Am I sealing the wood before the oil, or sealing the oil before the finish? Or, do I need it at all?

Thanks in advance


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You don't need the linseed oil unless you are going to use a waterborne sanding sealer. Then one coat would be sufficient. Using a waterborne finish you would either have to seal the wood with a de-waxed shellac such as Zinsser Sealcoat or allow the linseed oil to dry for a week to ten days. Linseed oil is incompatible with waterborne finishes. The linseed oil would have to go directly on the wood. Never put linseed oil over any finish or sealer. 

If you are using a solvent based sanding sealer skip the linseed oil and just apply it directly to the wood. It will have the same appearance either way. The sanding sealer will make the grain pop just as much as the linseed oil.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Why are you planning 3 coats of linseed oil under lacquer? If you're just using the oil to bring some color to the wood, 1 very light coat is plenty, and even then you may not really 'need' the oil. Try a few test pieces, the lacquer may bring enough color by itself


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## Phil Hill (Apr 28, 2016)

epicfail48 said:


> Why are you planning 3 coats of linseed oil under lacquer? If you're just using the oil to bring some color to the wood, 1 very light coat is plenty, and even then you may not really 'need' the oil. Try a few test pieces, the lacquer may bring enough color by itself


Thanks for the reply. Because a local finisher (who does really good work) said, "boiled linseed oil? Brother if you're going to do that you're good, give it three coats, hit it with 220 grit sandpaper between coats, give it three coats of Deft and your golden."

On Walnut I can see where the blo would not be needed. But I also use maple and other lighter woods and the blo adds a little richness. Do you suggest something else for that other than linseed? 

PS Also, I thinned the sealer 50/50 with mineral spirits.



Steve Neul said:


> You don't need the linseed oil unless you are going to use a waterborne sanding sealer. Then one coat would be sufficient. Using a waterborne finish you would either have to seal the wood with a de-waxed shellac such as Zinsser Sealcoat or allow the linseed oil to dry for a week to ten days. Linseed oil is incompatible with waterborne finishes. The linseed oil would have to go directly on the wood. Never put linseed oil over any finish or sealer.
> 
> If you are using a solvent based sanding sealer skip the linseed oil and just apply it directly to the wood. It will have the same appearance either way. The sanding sealer will make the grain pop just as much as the linseed oil.


Actually, I guess this answers my question also.

The sealer is Minwax and I'm pretty sure it's water based. (not at home to check) Do you suggest I use a solvent based sealer? Looking online the minwax lacquer sealer says it dries in one hour. 

_*So..... would a better plan be to just use a lacquer sanding sealer, let it dry for an hour, sand, then spray on 3 coats of Deft??*_


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Phil Hill said:


> _*So..... would a better plan be to just use a lacquer sanding sealer, let it dry for an hour, sand, then spray on 3 coats of Deft??*_


Pretty much yeah. Linseed oil is a finish itself, it doesn't make a lot of sense to take the time to put 3 coats of it down only to overcoat it with a different finish.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Minwax lacquer is a different product than sanding sealer. The purpose of a sanding sealer is it has more solids and builds faster and also it is formulated to be easier to sand. Think of it as a clear primer. Minwax says if the wood is stained it doesn't need a sanding sealer. This is false for the reasons I stated. You don't necessarily have to use a sealer with any finish but it would make the job easier and better if you leveled the finish with a sealer first before topcoating. Most topcoats are much harder and much more difficult to sand so it takes a lot of elbow grease to level a finish with a topcoat. This Minwax sanding sealer is water based. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/hardwood-floors/minwax-professional-formula-sanding-sealer

If you wish to use lacquer it will need to sprayed. Using a sprayer is a really easy finish to work with and lacquers have their own sanding sealer. If you can't find any at the box stores Sherwin Williams has a lacquer sanding sealer that works well. Incidentally these type lacquers are know as a nitrocellulose lacquer. They are made by dissolving cotton for the resin. Therefore since it's made from cotton it's prone to yellow over time and may not be suited for light colored woods. There is a another type of lacquer known as per-catalyzed lacquer which is made with plastic resins. Since it is made from plastic resins it is more water resistant and remains clear better. The box stores won't have this type lacquer, you will have to go to a real paint store such as Sherwin Williams and maybe have to order it. It's more of an industrial finish which a store that caters to house painting may not have.


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