# Doug Fir Timber Mantle



## jp4LSU (Apr 4, 2012)

Newbie here and relatively new to finishing. After this I will be re-finishing a dining set that I refinished before but we don't like the color.

Subject: Hand hewn Douglas Fir timber with corbels
Issue: Concern over raised end grain and raised grain going down corbel

Desired Finish: I'm looking to copy this finish, which is the exact same mantel from the same manufacturer. http://www.larryjwheeler.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=121&pos=0

I'm wanting a dark finish but need it to be even as in the picture. I haven't dealt with Doug Fir before and am worried that the raised grain will stand out and be a lot lighter than desired.

Do you guys/gals have any ideas on how they achieved the uniform finish?

Current Plan of action:


Apply diluted stain to end grain, sand the raised grains and apply un-diluted to high spots if possible.
Stain rest of mantle to desired darkness
apply several coats of tung oil
Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
JP


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

jp4LSU said:


> Newbie here and relatively new to finishing. After this I will be re-finishing a dining set that I refinished before but we don't like the color.
> 
> Subject: Hand hewn Douglas Fir timber with corbels
> Issue: Concern over raised end grain and raised grain going down corbel
> ...


Interesting, kind of curious as to why you're not buying it all ready finished like that if that is the finish you desire?

From what i can see on close up examination, it is not an oil finish but a film coated finish requiring maybe 4 steps as to over-all color-work.

First, a base stain [red brown] then a sealer coat of clear finish [probably 2 is more likely sanded in-between coats, maybe more if further smoothing is necessary] Then a glaze of white applied [probably off white to match color in pic] and mostly wiped off again uniformly, except ithe groves or other distress areas where it's hanging up in, then another coat of clear and possibly dry brushing dark highlights on edges etc.. With a few more clear coats to lock everything in of a satin sheen approx. 30 degree. This may not be the "exact" procedure, but from doing samples you can adjust the processes as needed just as i or others would have to do ok?

I see no reason to do any more than sand and apply the oil base stain which will not raise the grain, seal/sand/and reseal and then follow the outline given or other outlines posted after this ok? Do all this on samples before actually applying to the face sides of the project ok, your not going to get that look right off the bat, it will have to be tweaked i assure you!! Buy an extra board if necessary for samples ok?

Sincerely,

Chemmy


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## jp4LSU (Apr 4, 2012)

Bravo Chemmy on the analysis. Thanks a lot.:thumbsup:
I had kinda come to the conclusion that it was possibly a surface finish because of the lack of grain that is showing and the even finish.

The reason I didn't buy it finished is because the timber company that mine and the one pictured came from do not finish. Somebody finished the one in the picture for the home owner.


UPDATE:
I stained the mantle in a dark walnut last night. The grain is pronounced in the Doug Fir similar to a pine. The end grain at the ends and the face of the corbels did come out darker and even. I basically brushed it on and wiped it right off. 

I would like to get the grains a little darker. Not sure if that would be possible. 

I was thinking of hitting it with 150 sandpaper and putting a second coat on to see if it would soak in some more. 

But Chemmy your thought of a white glaze and distressing is a thought. That might not be a bad idea. Good call.

So I guess the issue now is if I can mute the grain a little and get it blended better with the surroundings. Thoughts.

Thanks again guys.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

jp4LSU said:


> Bravo Chemmy on the analysis. Thanks a lot.:thumbsup:
> I had kinda come to the conclusion that it was possibly a surface finish because of the lack of grain that is showing and the even finish.
> 
> The reason I didn't buy it finished is because the timber company that mine and the one pictured came from do not finish. Somebody finished the one in the picture for the home owner.
> ...


I can only analyze what I'm able to see, post pics along with this info ok?


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## jp4LSU (Apr 4, 2012)

Will do Chemmy. I walked out last night forgetting to take a picture of it. I'll try to get one tonight.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

jp4LSU said:


> Will do Chemmy. I walked out last night forgetting to take a picture of it. I'll try to get one tonight.


Do us a favor, take 3 shots, one of the end and corbel, one of the center section and another of the overall look. the first 2 get close ups and then the overall appearance as it sits. most times overall shots do-not tell me what is really going on as to where someone is.


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## jp4LSU (Apr 4, 2012)

OK, I got a few pictures last night of the mantle.
At one point I moved it to room where it will live to see it next to the fireplace and with the lighting. 

I'm kind of liking it the way it is. It's supposed to be rustic with the hand hewn and imperfections, which I think some of you real wood workers probably hate. :smile:

I might would make the wood straps a little darker for some contrast. But if you have advice on getting the long face grains to blend in a little more, I would appreciate it. That still might be in the cards. 

Once I saw it in the room I kinda liked it and am in the air on what to do. I will be putting tung oil on it if I leave it alone.


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## Icutone2 (Nov 4, 2011)

jp, You could use Ebony stain on the straps, that would make them a closer to black look. Just a thought.
Lee


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## jp4LSU (Apr 4, 2012)

Good point Icutone2.:thumbsup: 
I had some Jacobean stain that is really dark that I was thinking of trying. The ebony would be even better because it would be in a different color family and have more contrast.

Since I have Jacobean, I'll give that a shot and if it's not enough I'll try the ebony.

Should I tape the beam off when doing this? If so with what so the stain doesn't soak through it.


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## Icutone2 (Nov 4, 2011)

jp, I would just stay away from the edge a little and see how the stain sucks into the wood. and then adjust the distance so the stain will not seep into the outer area. I do not think taping will stop the transfer of the stain. Just be very accurate when applying it. You could evan put some ebony into the Jacobean stain to get the color you want.
Lee


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Well I'm glad your happy with it, continue on the way your thoughts are leading you, post pics when done, i have no input from here on out, to far along to change anything.


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## jp4LSU (Apr 4, 2012)

Chemmy, I THINK I'm OK with it. 
I wish the light grain was darker so that it would blend in a little better. I think the only hope of doing that would be doing what you mentioned previously, which is some sort of top finish of tinted shellac or polyshade.

I don't think I want to do that in the even I don't like that it will be much more difficult if not impossible to deal with and remove.

But you had an interesting theory on how the mystery mantle was finished. I may think about doing some antiquing or dark highlights. 

However, I planned on tung oiling it so those options might not work.

Thanks for the help guys and the advice. I'll keep you posted if something changes.


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## Emmyk (Jan 3, 2021)

chemmy said:


> I can only analyze what I'm able to see, post pics along with this info ok?


I work for a residential home builder and I do the design. I work with fir mantles all the time and I use Jacobean to get an attractive look. One coat of stain and a couple of coats of a non-glossy clear coat. I have found that dark walnut stain allows the mantle to appear somewhat pinkish.


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## Emmyk (Jan 3, 2021)




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