# 2x4s, getting them square



## Devon7234 (Jan 6, 2011)

Hello everyone. My woodworking knowledge has been increasing at an exponential rate. It's been a great enjoyment so far! I've come with a few questions and hope to get some guidance. I'm making a simple table to aid me in future projects. 
I picked up a bunch of 2x4s boards from Lowes. They were cheap, like a $1.75. I sectioned them up and got 4 sections of 23 inch boards. I set my table saw to 1/4 inch and shaved them down on both sides to yield 
3x1.5x23 sections. Thinking this would "plane" my sections and yield perfectly straight edges. I then lightly sanded the faces and glued and clamped them. I now have a 23x24x1.5 square panel. I repeated this procedure and have another similar section. I plan on attaching the panels tomorrow to yield 1, 46x48x1.5 large panel. 
I can already tell the surface isn't flat. I'm going to have to hand plane and sand it. Any tips or tricks? 
Also, so I can avoid this in future endeavorers, how can I square up perfectly a piece of wood on a table saw?


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

I'm also a rookie, and as time allows I'm trying to learn to do that too. These might help:
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/6-table-saw-jointing-jig-plans-straight-edge-no-jointer


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The link that Steve posted is a good one. Using a straight edge against the fence will straight cut the opposite edge. What you may find though is once the wood is cut it may release some stresses and do funny things. There's no real guarantee.

For flattening, there's been some router jigs posted that lets a router ride on rails to "plane" the surface. Other than that, using handplanes will work. Do not try your hand with a handheld power plane. That can eat wood faster than you can say Ticonderoga.

You could make yourself some block sanders using hand held belt sander belts. These can be useful as once you have the belt on the substrate, it's tight, and you have two sides. I use 3"x 21", and 3"x24". I use either a 5/8" or 3/4" substrate. They are easy to hold.
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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ripping on the table saw*

Another shop made jig: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/board-straightening-jig-table-saw-16999/

A table saw with a rip fence likes to "duplicate" what is pressed against it whether it's a curve or a straight line, generally speaking. It will after repeated passes eventually become more straight, but it's not the best/easiest way to straighten a board. 
Even a straight board screwed to the curved one will do OK when placed against the fence. The above jigs are far better if you work with rough sawn lumber and Framing lumber sometimes falls into that category being curved and warped from the Depot and Lowes.

Why is it that you wanted 2 separate panels?

You will find as you get more into hand tools and hand planes in particular that you will want a work bench that works well to secure the "work" as you work on it....:laughing: 

You are right the next step is a hand plane or a hand held power plane, to quickly remove larger amounts of the wood which is objectionable. You can get many hand planing tips in a search... including planing diagonally across the surface and sharpening your plane iron on a slight curve.  bill
This guy is well known for using the hand plane:






Interesting shop tour:


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## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

That is indeed a great link Steve posted. I'll make one of those jigs.

This is what I do for small pieces of wood and I think it works. I hold the piece against the miter gauge and (without using the fence) guide it through the cut. Assuming the gauge is a perfect 90 degrees I figure I should have a square piece of wood.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I would be leery of using construction lumber for a top because the moisture content is more than likely too high for what you are using it for. It will cup and warp on you as it dries. Why not just double up a piece of 3/4 plywood for a sturdy top?


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## Devon7234 (Jan 6, 2011)

I was able to pick up a 6 inch jointer up off of craigslist on the cheap. I calibrated it and it works pretty well. I joint a side and a face, mark it A and B, then run it through the table saw with respectable faces on the fence. For the final face, I rip it with a jointed side against my fence. Seems to work pretty well, however I'm limited to 3.5 inch stock as my blade only goes that high. I'm going to pick up some hand planers hopefully here in a bit and learn to use them. Regardless, it's not too much of a hassle for me to just butt joint the boards with clamps and cauls and give a final sand with the above mentioned sanding blocks Cabinet man mentioned. If I get tired of this I'll just throw a router planer jig together for $25.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You can resaw greater than 3.5*

Your blade goes to 3.5" but you can flip the board end for end keeping the same face to the fence. Then you can get to around 6" or so. It's also a bit safer taking 1/2 at a time rather than the full cut., especially with a jointer to face the surface. JMO.  bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Devon7234 said:


> I was able to pick up a 6 inch jointer up off of craigslist on the cheap. I calibrated it and it works pretty well. I joint a side and a face, mark it A and B, then run it through the table saw with respectable faces on the fence. For the final face, I rip it with a jointed side against my fence. Seems to work pretty well, however I'm limited to 3.5 inch stock as my blade only goes that high. I'm going to pick up some hand planers hopefully here in a bit and learn to use them. Regardless, it's not too much of a hassle for me to just butt joint the boards with clamps and cauls and give a final sand with the above mentioned sanding blocks Cabinet man mentioned. If I get tired of this I'll just throw a router planer jig together for $25.



Most 10" table saws will give a blade height of 3" to 3.125 (1/8"). If you do cut one edge and then flip end for end, you should use a push shoe, and advisable to use a ZCI, and a featherboard. When you make the secondary cut, the fall off piece will be a pretty good size, and wait until you shut off the saw to retrieve it.












 









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## Devon7234 (Jan 6, 2011)

You are correct cabinetman. The blade height is 3.125. Interesting idea about flipping the stock over and hitting the opposite side to make a 6.50 cut. Feather boards are awesome, its like having an extra hand. What kind of dimensions do you make yours?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Devon7234 said:


> You are correct cabinetman. The blade height is 3.125. Interesting idea about flipping the stock over and hitting the opposite side to make a 6.50 cut. Feather boards are awesome, its like having an extra hand. What kind of dimensions do you make yours?


I have several types depending on the project, but I prefer to cut the fingers deep (long) so there is some spring action instead of just a stiff angle. It seems with longer narrow fingers, stock slides easier, and they also help with locking rearward movement which could be the start of a kickback.












 









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