# Cadillac Plane



## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

It has been a few months now that I acquired a Stanley #7 Type 14 
hand plane.
Was a sweet deal as with the plane along came a custom Tote and Knob made of walnut from Dave Paine. 

The plane is finished now, and is one heck of a user.

Wife nick named the plane after the Johnny Cash song "One piece at a time"...:yes:

Here is its start...


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Any after pictures?


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Yes,
As the story unfolds, a little setback a cured, unnoticed crack in the plane bed.







Still went along with the clean up, could be fixed but opted to find another bed.
Here is what it looked liked cleaned up.








So I did find another bed..#7 Type 9
And another frog from a #6 Type 9 was acquired from Dave
Here is the pic of the Type 9 bed with the unfinished wood.








So with everything cleaned up, time to start finishing.
Plane is just the clean up form.








Another lever cap was found, but from a Type 7.
So as it stands, one would say it's a Frankin plane, nope it is a Cadillac, just one piece at a time..will post pics of it finished in another round


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

The plane is basically a #7 Type 9, but customized to my own liking.

Tote and Knob..made and designed by Dave Paine 
Tote and knob screws from a Type 14
Iron and cap iron Type 14
Lever cap Type 7 with S on the underside.









Plane in action, plane still needs to be lapped and the blade sharpened even more, when these pics where taken.























Not shown yet;
Small brass adjusting knob replaced with the larger style after the lapping of the frog and the sole.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

That is nice, it looks great. Sorry about the other one that was cracked, that would have really hurt, especially on a #7.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Thank you,

A Stanley plane can be put together from different type parts. And can be made into a very good user. You do have to know what will work or I should say, cross change.

With the frog lapped to the bed and the sole lapped true, it has become one of my favorites to use. Just got done wipping off the shavings and dust for the final pics.

I don't believe Dave Paine has seen these photos yet.
His choice of the walnut and his workmanship really adds to the plane.
I should point out, that the Knob was turned for a raised ring plane. 

1). Tote and Knob where finished with 9 coats of True Oil, sanded with 1500 grit sandpaper between coats.
2). Bed was sprayed with VHT Black Gloss Engine paint, then a very light rub of 0000 Steel wool to cut the shine down somewhat.
3). All parts have a application of Min-Wax Paste Wax.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Man, that is really sweet!!


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## cms1983 (Apr 25, 2012)

. I successfully weled a 604 1/2 and 607 bedrocks. U close to jersey?


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## cms1983 (Apr 25, 2012)

I don't mind doin it no sense in wasting a good body












This is the 607 bedrock got it with just the frame and built it up sandblasted it. It had 1% japanning so it was due. If u wanna see the 604 1/2 I'll drop a pic let me know if u want. I could do it if want to ship it. If u want to,I wouldn't charge anything. The resto looks good man


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Thanks to all,

cms83,
Fine work on that Bedrock bottom, may take you up on the offer which is what a good Forum is all about..helping others..:thumbsup:

Will PM you when I am about ready..if you don't mind.

Would love to see pics, as I imagine others would too..


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

cms83 said:


> . I successfully welded a 604 1/2 and 607 bedrocks. U close to jersey?


Care to share a few tips/your method for plane welding? I've not come across one that needed any, but it's good to know it can be successfully done if needed.

I can guess what I'd try, but it would be nice to know what has worked for you.

Thanks.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I question if it is really worth welding a plane unless it has some personal meaning and value. I have welded or brazed a few. Brazed an old Stanley Gage that belonged to my grand father and one that belonged to my Dad. Other than that there were so many planes manufactured that a replacement is very doable.

Cowboy, the caddy came out real nice. Just can't beat the old ones.

Paul


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Fastback said:


> I question if it is really worth welding a plane unless it has some personal meaning and value. I have welded or brazed a few. Brazed an old Stanley Gage that belonged to my grand father and one that belonged to my Dad. Other than that there were so many planes manufactured that a replacement is very doable.
> 
> Cowboy, the caddy came out real nice. Just can't beat the old ones.
> 
> Paul


I don't deny that it may not really be worth it, but if a cracked one falls into my lap, why not weld it and make a user? 

When you grew up on a farm, the mentality is nothing gets thrown away if you have a chance to fix it - even if it's just for the challenge of trying.:smile: Even though I'm not farming anymore, it's hard to break the lessons learned when you were young.


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## cms1983 (Apr 25, 2012)

I think it is worth it to a point. If you have to pay 100 doll hairs to weld it and it's not a real rare plane maybe not worth it. But if u can do it cheap I feel why waste it. Chances are a craftsmen spent his week or so pay to buy it and prob took care of it so if u can do the same I think you should. 

So method is this. First I did some home work to clear that myth that you can't weld cast. I found you can if it's a good or old cast. See the old cast is more pure( or so I've been told) iron then modern cast iron. They tend to mix other metals in with the cast older or better cast is more iron then others. I first I cut a light v along the crack then I use a propane torch and heat the area up you will see the moisture leave the cast I heat to 200deg. Or so. then set you welder for a fast wire speed and low heat and start in the middle of the crack and work to top that's where it could move the most then middle again to bottom. When I do the plane cheeks after the weld I do I light grind I try to leave the patina on the rest of the cheek but remove the rust. Each is own there. Also fixed the threaded piece of a stanley 65 block plane the adjustable mouth, the. Threaded piece broke so I fired up the lathe cut OD to look the same and tap the hole. It was a late model plane it was 1/4 20 threads the one with blue jappening bu it was perfect other wise like new. I'll take pics in a few mins of the other two repairs


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## cms1983 (Apr 25, 2012)

Here is the other two 604 1/2 &65. The 604 1/2 had something different about the casting. As you can see I kept chasing the blowout dirt rust or grease kept trying to escape out the weld no matter how much I cleaned it. This I welded both sides because of it but it matches the other pits on the cheek. This BD I did lap the cheeks due to the heavy rust that was on it. I had together once but wasn't happy with the weld. Just hadn't finish it yet. Acowboy drop me line when your ready. I would more then happy to do it. Iam not a big fan of brazen cause you get that casting real hot when I weld it, it never turns red so it won't get as brittle. Also when u do weld them you should move fast and don't "dig" or sit to long in one spot. It will wash out


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks for the info and pictures, it is much appreciated!

Seeing you mention preheating reminded me that Dad used to weld cast quite a bit. I do remember now that he always pre-heated, and used to use different rods from the general welding rods we always used (6011 and 6013). I'll have to ask him what his procedure was and what rod he used. Unfortunately I don't have a wire welder, just the good old Lincoln stick welder that you used to see on every farm 30-40 years ago.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

I am with trc65, thank you.
Hard to explain, a well used tool has a "feel" about it.
And by my signature, I still try to fix an old tool and bring it back to a usable tool again.

Here are some pics on where I left off on the plane bed.

Granted the plane has been tagged, but would love to see it back in action, so to speak.

cms83, thanks again for the offer.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

Hope you folks don't think I was putting down welding. As said, I have welded a few. If your using stick they so make a cast iron welding rod. They are not cheap. 

Yes, cast iron needs to be preheated and allowed to cool very slowly so you do not develop more cracks. The slower you can get it to cool the better.

Good luck on the welding.

Paul


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## cms1983 (Apr 25, 2012)

Yes!! Cool down very important. Forgot bout that. I welded a Chaplin block plane lat lever which is very small it was missing pieces of it so I welded it and build it up with weld it was so small and cooled fast, I went to go drill out the pin hole just wiped out the bit to hard gotta heat it back up and cool it slow by putting light or quick heat on it every 30 60 secs


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## cms1983 (Apr 25, 2012)

Paul I agree sometimes it may not be worth it. Don't want to spend a 100 bucks to get that type 14 #4 welded just depends on situation. Don't want to give the wrong idea to a person new to these tools.


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## cms1983 (Apr 25, 2012)

Acowboy, does that crack go down to mouth? From the pic doesn't look like it does


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