# Need some tips on how to do this



## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

Hello everyone

i want to make a circular hole into a block of wood, like so:








the depth of the hole is to be about 5cm deep.

what tools would you use?
what drill bits?
maybe manual tools?

i would rather use the cheapest way to do this (taking into consideration the time it takes as well - for example, i don't wanna carve it out with a knife for instance)

i have a dremel


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

welcome to the forum, WW.
what goes in the hole ?
what other tools do you have access to ?
how many do you have to make ?
5cm is about 2 inches deep - what is the diameter of the hole ?
and - how thick is the wood ?


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

thank you, john
what goes in the hole is a glass bottle. (what's the connection between what goes in the hole and how to make the hole, btw?)
as for tools, i have a dremel and a regular drill
and, i would like to make many.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Treat ot like you were routing out for a router plate. A template and a router..

For me a template , router and router guide..bushing...


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

wwhobbyist said:


> thank you, john
> what goes in the hole is a glass bottle. (what's the connection between what goes in the hole and how to make the hole, btw?)
> as for tools, i have a dremel and a regular drill
> and, i would like to make many.


Might be tough, more like carving...


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

WW - to me, the reference of what the hole is for is: will it be seen by the user ?
which would determine just how smooth and precise you want it to be. For a rustic board like you have, maybe a rustic, hand-cut hole would be appropriate ?
if you are wanting to make "many" of these, either for gifts or profit, you are going to have to upgrade to a hand-held router.

do you have some sample photos, sketches, or drawings to share with us ?


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

i figuredi would probably have to go with carving or routing or whatever it's called.
i guess i could have imediatley asked for carving with the dremmel, what other bits exist, that i can use on the dremel, besides these tiny ones?








are there better ones? ones that carve out more wood at a time? or even that are purposefully made to carve a flat surface out of the wood?

@john the user would not see the hole, but it would have to be smooth so the bottle sits inside the hole, at a perfect verticaly angled 90º


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

When you say you'd like to make 'many', how many is 'many'? This is an ideal job for a CNC router. Ideally, you'll do it before cutting the square so you can cut a lot of pockets at once and then cut the squares out.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

You do not have the right tool, a Dremel. 
You need a drill press with a Forstner bit or a power drill and a hole saw. 
It will take FOREVER to use a Dremel or any other hand carving method.
Spend some money and get a used drill press at a pawn shop or yard sale. A small one is OK.
Anymore than one is too many to do by hand.


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## GCTony (Apr 5, 2018)

woodnthings said:


> You do not have the right tool, a Dremel.
> You need a drill press with a Forstner bit or a power drill and a hole saw.
> It will take FOREVER to use a Dremel or any other hand carving method.
> Spend some money and get a used drill press at a pawn shop or yard sale. A small one is OK.
> Anymore than one is too many to do by hand.


A drill press is a great inexpensive "first" tool for beginner woodworking, Can drill just about any size hole in all kinds of materials and can install a sanding drum. You can get a cheap drill press for under $100.00 

They have these where you attached a hand drill to:









YEEZUGO Floor Drill Press Stand Table for Drill Workbench Repair Tool Clamp for Drilling Collet,drill Press Table - - Amazon.com


YEEZUGO Floor Drill Press Stand Table for Drill Workbench Repair Tool Clamp for Drilling Collet,drill Press Table - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

I was posting the same time as Tony . . . a drill press and hole saw.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

so, i'm on the low-end of budgets.
so i might go with the hole saw and power drill for now
see how that turns out.
thanks for the replies, everyone.


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## gstanfield (Dec 23, 2011)

wwhobbyist said:


> so, i'm on the low-end of budgets.
> so i might go with the hole saw and power drill for now
> see how that turns out.
> thanks for the replies, everyone.


A hole saw will make a hole all the way through, but if you want a hole with a bottom in it then look at a Forstner bit. Either way, please feel free to show us the finished product. Most of us enjoy watching all kinds of products from simple to extravagant and are happy to offer tips to improve your abilities.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

yeah - i realize the hole saw is used to cut all the way through. but i'm going to see if i can use it for what i want, either way. maybe removing the remaining center wooden part with a chisel or something, then dremel the bottom to smooth it. i have a feeling the forstner bit needs the drill bench? doing it by hand wont do, right?


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

yes, for the best results with the forstner bit, a bench drill press would do best.
can you show us some sample drawings, sketches or photos ??


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

wwhobbyist said:


> yeah - i realize the hole saw is *used to cut all the way through*. but i'm going to see if i can use it for what i want, either way. maybe removing the remaining center wooden part with a chisel or something, then dremel the bottom to smooth it. i have a feeling the forstner bit needs the drill bench? doing it by hand wont do, right?


You can use a hole saw to "cut all the way through" and then glue a thin backer on the bottom to close it off. Simple, easy and fast.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

A hole saw/chiseling out the waste is doable.


wwhobbyist said:


> yeah - i realize the hole saw is used to cut all the way through. but i'm going to see if i can use it for what i want, either way. maybe removing the remaining center wooden part with a chisel or something, then dremel the bottom to smooth it. i have a feeling the forstner bit needs the drill bench? doing it by hand wont do, right?


You can use a Forstner in a hand drill, up to a point then it can get a little squirrelly especially if you don’t have strong wrists. 

A large size hole saw requires a strong drill. I’ve seen a technique of drilling a small hole with a Forstner but that just touches the groove created by the hole saw. This prevents burning by giving the dust a place to escape. It’s a pretty neat trick to think about.

If you can set up the hole saw with the center bit barely protruding you don’t need to cut all the way through. 

Another idea would be use the hole saw to establish the outer diameter, then a small Forstner bit to hog out the waste that will mean less chiseling, and thats always a good thing 😁

If it’s over 3” you can make a circle template but you need a base for the Dremel.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Dremel Tools are quite a versatile tool - some are only good for polishing fingernails and some can cut the lug nuts off of a tire rim. Depending on which model you have, and the Torque and HorsePower, it will be time consuming to accomplish your project. Especially, if you are using hardwoods such as oak.
you can get some accessories either on-line or at your local hardware stores to keep the tool vertical and some bits that will accomplish the task. PATIENCE is a virtue. I would suggest you start with the softest wood you can find to make your prototype and learn from that as you move forward.


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## JayArr (Sep 18, 2018)

Dremel tools have plastic housings. The motor components and importantly the bearings for the rotor of the motor, are held in alignment by the plastic casting of the housing. Pay attention to how warm it gets. On a large job like this you don't want to overheat it. You will be putting a lot of sideways pressure on the front bearing, if the housing gets warm and soft you could push the bearing off center and ruin the Dremel. Take breaks and let it cool down if it starts to feel too warm.

Have fun!


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## Kenh3497 (Jun 5, 2021)

Is is necessary for the sides to be closed? If not cut a hole in two thinner boards and "connect" the top and bottom with another piece of wood. Kind of like making a box with a lid.

Ken


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

Kenh3497 said:


> Is is necessary for the sides to be closed? If not cut a hole in two thinner boards and "connect" the top and bottom with another piece of wood. Kind of like making a box with a lid.
> 
> Ken


hi kenh, not sure what you mean but i want to cut the hole (just about 5cm in, not through) into a solid block of wood, like this








i want those rings and grains to be a focal point of the entire thing.
ill update with my progress


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## Kenh3497 (Jun 5, 2021)

wwhobbyist said:


> hi kenh, not sure what you mean but i want to cut the hole (just about 5cm in, not through) into a solid block of wood, like this
> View attachment 436968
> 
> i want those rings and grains to be a focal point of the entire thing.
> ill update with my progress


OK Now I understand your goal. Ignore my comment and carry on. 

Ken


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## sunnybob (Sep 3, 2016)

A forstner bit to cut a hole big enough for a bottle to sit in will be very expensive. It will also need a pretty good drill press.
Use a hole saw, put the drill press on low speed or else it will stall, go to the depth you want, and then chisel out the waste by hand. Using a 1" (25 mm) chisel will make it an easy job.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

an update on this project:
the drill press and a frostner bit did the work well. slowly but surely cutting into these blocks.








the problem now it that the wood is too hard for those cheap dremell bits i have to sand down the hole to perfection. and the dremel is all the machinery i have.
i used a small frostner bit, so i had to drill into the wood multiple times, as you can see.
but ive ordered a 60mm frostenr bit now, and with one go it should create the perfect hole, at 4mm less from that i need, but i think sanding it down by hand with some sand paper will get to the exact measures.

the solution was most definitly a drill press and a frostner bit - so ill need to buy one of those drill presses, for sure. screw the dremel!



sunnybob said:


> A forstner bit to cut a hole big enough for a bottle to sit in will be very expensive. It will also need a pretty good drill press.
> [/QUTOE]
> i just bought a 60mm on for 10 bucks. ill let you know how well it does against the wood. the drill press apparently was good enough (plus the frostener bits i got a hand on - wouldnt know their quality, i borrowed them, the same as the drill press), but ill see how well this 10 dolar fostner bit does
> 
> ...


thanks, everybody


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

Go old school. Get one of these:








Vintage Tools Ratcheting Drill Auger Bore Brace 10" Swing ☆USA Wood Handles | eBay


Ratcheting & chuck works good. Center Handle is froze up.



www.ebay.com




and one of these:








IRWIN #22 Adjustable 1 1/2'' To 3'' Auger Brace Drill Bit | eBay


Auger Brace Drill Bit. IRWIN #22 Adjustable 1 1/2" To 3".



www.ebay.com


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

that's a lot of arm strength i suspect, to cut 5cm into a block of wood, by hand?!


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

wwhobbyist said:


> that's a lot of arm strength i suspect, to cut 5cm into a block of wood, by hand?!


If your cutters are sharp, the brace gives you lots of leverage and it is amazingly easy. Concider that you are not cutting a full 5cm because the cutter cuts only half of the diameter at a time.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

thats good news, that its surprisingly easy.
but when i say i need to cut 5cm, i mean 5cm deep.
would it still be easily doable?
isnt there a chance the cutter might start jamming at such depth? what with not being a precise angle of entry (aka, manual)?


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

as reb mentioned in post #4. a router and a temple would work very well for what your asking.
once the router and template are setup you could make one every few minutes
the router will leave you with a flat bottom hole and is useful for future projects

here is a video of what i'm try to explain badly


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

wwhobbyist said:


> thats good news, that its surprisingly easy.
> but when i say i need to cut 5cm, i mean 5cm deep.
> would it still be easily doable?
> isnt there a chance the cutter might start jamming at such depth? what with not being a precise angle of entry (aka, manual)?


Sorry. I remembered 5mm as the diameter. I see that you need 64mm (=about 21/2"). Doable with the auger. It works by swinging a cutter bar with a spur on the end and a screw feed in the center. As you turn it the spur cuts the wood fibers around the outer edge and the cutter bar "chisels' out the bottom. It is up to the operator to keep it going straight, but that is pretty easy. You know you are going straight if the cutter bar is cutting about the same amount all the way around.

The hole won't be as clean as what a forstner bit will provide, but you can do it with one attempt with perhaps only a bit of sanding to clean it up; if you desire. The center screw will leave a center hole a bit deeper than the hole bottom. By providing consistent pressure on the brace, the center screw will provide fairly consistent advancement of the cutter and jamming is usually not a problem. You will need to have your work piece well secured while doing this.


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

I withdraw my suggestion to use a brace and auger bit. I pulled out my old one and tried it to make sure I was giving good advice and while doable, for a hole 2 1/2" in diameter, it is rather slow going and if you are going to do a lot of them it is perhaps not the best way. It is probably best for speed and accuracy to follow others advice and use the 60mm forstner to start and then clean out the remainder with a straight router bit with a guide template.


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## Kenh3497 (Jun 5, 2021)

Harbor Freight has a set of sanding drums of different diameters. 








Sanding Drum Kit, 20 Piece


Amazing deals on this Sanding Drum Kit 20Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




www.harborfreight.com





Ken


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## knothead1 (3 mo ago)

You've said in a couple of posts that you want to make lots of these. Whenever I use the word "lots" I start thinking about how to make the process smoother, easier, and importantly-repeatable. Looking at your work pieces, I agree with the posters that advocate a jig to locate and clamp the stock and a router set up with a guide collet and a long straight bit(MLCS will sell you a 1/2in/13mm bit as long as 95mm long for about $10). Make the jig from plywood or mdf, put in some screws for location/clamping and you will have a means to bang out "lots" of bottle holders that should require very little-if any-sanding and will look professional as well. Here a a few pix of a simple jig I made to mortise some doors: 1/2 inch plywood, nothing to it but worked great. Notice to port on the side for my shop vac's snout.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

the router way would be very finicky to set up because of the small block of wood they are, hence small area to support the guide, secure everything in place, etc. but it is the best/cheapest solution so far as a diy.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

what about a hand drill bench press? where we attach a hand drill? could i use one of those? what are the differences between using one of those and a bench drill?


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

Go buy yourself a hole saw for your drill.

Drill a hole all the way through and glue on a bottom.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> You can use a hole saw to "cut all the way through" and then glue a thin backer on the bottom to close it off. Simple, easy and fast.





Terry Q said:


> Go buy yourself a hole saw for your drill.
> Drill a hole all the way through and glue on a bottom.


Seems like we have the same approach!


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## Kenh3497 (Jun 5, 2021)

wwhobbyist said:


> the router way would be very finicky to set up because of the small block of wood they are, hence small area to support the guide, secure everything in place, etc. but it is the best/cheapest solution so far as a diy.


The way to do this is to leave the wood as a large part. Cut your holes, then cut off each "hole" and finish as a smaller part. You may have have a dozen give or take parts from the same chunk of wood.
Ken


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

Kenh3497 said:


> The way to do this is to leave the wood as a large part. Cut your holes, then cut off each "hole" and finish as a smaller part. You may have have a dozen give or take parts from the same chunk of wood.
> Ken


good technique, except i'm using already cut pieces, recycling those wood blocks from broken pallets. but thanks. more inclined to the drill bench here, as long as i can get my hands on one when i need it, if not there's the hand drill bench press approach as well. im sure ill try both benches and see how it goes! thanks


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Take a larger piece of wood the same thickness and cut out a square that would hold your piece of wood you want to make the circular cutout in. Then a simple template and a plunge router would do the job easily. Here’s a table top for an end table I recently made. I routed out all these recesses freehand, in three steps of depth so I wasn’t taking a big cut. Didn’t take that long and for the size of yours and using a template, it should only take a few minutes and leave you with a hole that’s easily sandable without much effort. I sanded these with a small drum sander bit in a handheld 3/8” drill.
Mike Hawkins








I


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

i'm using already cut blocks, @firehawkmph, but yeah, from a large piece of wood, routing is the way to go it seems.
i've got myself a borrowed drill bench and with the 60mm frostenr bit i ordered, i got the near perfect cut. yes, im moving away from the "cheapest" way to achieve this, but the ease of cutting into the block with the drill bench and frostner, moves me very quickly away from wanting the "cheapest" option anymore.








thanks very much for your replies.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Did you clamp the wood to the drill press table or just hold it with your hand ?


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

just holding it was sufficient, @John Smith_inFL, to my surprise!
and good too. i was having a hard time figuring out how i would clamp the wood without having to buy clamps!


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

wwhobbyist said:


> just holding it was sufficient, @John Smith_inFL, to my surprise!
> and good too. i was having a hard time figuring out how i would clamp the wood without having to buy clamps!


You might want to figure out something with a clamp or two. With that big of forstner bit, if it grabs, and they do, it’ll spin that wood like a top and whack your fingers pretty good.
Mike Hawkins


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

i was afraid of that, but coincidentally, as the drill bench is old, i wasn't able to tighten the bit so far that when it grabs, it spins the block of wood. instead, the forstner stops rotating for a split second. felt safe, but yes. as a "right way" of doing things, you're definitely right.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

hello, again, continuing on this project,
i have a question!
i rather not go into other option (as in buying a router) if i dont have to.
so, my question is, is there a drill bit which i can use on a drill press that can widen the hole i made? maybe shave the hole's interior "wall"?
a bit that cuts well, at low rpm? or even a filing bit? that won't break the drill press?
i must have miscalculated something, as the amount of wood i need to remove is still a lot, after i used the forstner bit, so sanding it is not the solution i thought it was.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

wwhobbyist said:


> is there a drill bit which i can use on a drill press that can widen the hole i made?


Assuming you can sufficiently clamp this piece such that your hands are out of the way and this won't move you can use a Forstner bit to shave the side walls. I've done it many times but just make sure the piece is really clamped tightly for safety.


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

wwhobbyist said:


> just holding it was sufficient, @John Smith_inFL, to my surprise!
> and good too. i was having a hard time figuring out how i would clamp the wood without having to buy clamps!


Using fingers as a substitute for clamps is not good. Buy some clamps. They don't have to be expensive ones. It is even possible to make them. They will serve you well now and in the future. Save your fingers. They are irreplaceable.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

clamping the wood down and using the Fornster is definitly an option.

two problems: firstly, i dont have clamps (and before you tell me to just buy a few, please hear me out). secondly: going around the edge, drilling away with the Forsnter won't result in a round interior wall.

so, im (hardheaded but) thinking if this up/down spiral bit will work, instead of the Forstner, on the drill press; ill attach it to the press and freely, and slowly move the block of wood towards the rotating bit and just go around the edges

so any idea if this bit would work? and start shaving off the interior wall of the hole? without shooting the block of wood away?

and is there a better/different bit i could try that easily shaves off wood without grabbing too much to the wood, as to where i'd anyways need clamps?

edit: if this theoreticly could work, it could potentially be cheaper than the clamps and much less setting up, needed.


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

Going in circles. I'm done.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

yomanbill said:


> Going in circles. I'm done.


huh?
how is it going in circles, asking is there's a drill that cuts or scrapes away ever so slightly that i won't need the clamps?


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

wwhobbyist said:


> huh?
> how is it going in circles, asking is there's a drill that cuts or scrapes away ever so slightly that i won't need the clamps?


I'm referring to the entirety of the 50 post thread. You need to take the good advice you have been given by multiple experienced woodworkers.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

doesn't have anything to do with listening to the advice. i listen. "buy a piece of wood, make the holes with a router, then cut the blocks".
it has to do with what i have to work with, and trying to spend as least as i can until i see this project as viable for sale first.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

so yeah, work with what you got and can afford or are willing to spend


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Looks pretty neat to me.
What kind of market will you approach with this project ?
And, thanks for the update.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

thanks john!
i'm making a side-table lamp, on the rustic end of things - "pirate-age" sort of thing
p.s i used a up down mill cutter and it performed just fine, without clamps, just a bit of hand strength to keep it in place, in case anybody needs to do something similar


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

wwhobbyist said:


> i used a up down mill cutter and it performed just fine, without clamps, just a bit of hand strength to keep it in place, in case anybody needs to do something similar


The way drill presses are commonly made they aren't designed for side loads on the bit, only vertical pressure. The chuck screws onto a small shaft that is tapered at the top, it is held in place by friction in the tapered hole it fits into.

With a side load it can fall out of place, shaft, chuck and bit suddenly dropping down. It happened to me once, doing something similar to what you are doing. I was lucky, no blood or machine damage, but it wasn't safe or fun.

I would clamp it, but I understanding doing a project with the tools you already have, not spending money on more tools.

Another way: most drill press tables have slots. Get a piece of plywood about 19mm thick, about 20cm bigger than the drill's table. Use carriage bolts though the ply and tables slots, drill a shallow hole for the head of the bolt to fit into so it isn't above the level of the ply.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carriage_bolt#/media/File:Din_603_6.8.jpg



Lots of woodworkers make wood tables to fit on top of their drill press tables. Then for this project screw pieces of wood to the ply to surround your work piece on 3 or 4 sides. If you want to try this I can go into more detail. There's a way to use wood wedges to tighten the hold on your work piece.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

Any tips for finding 'free' wood for using in...


Hi all -fairly new to this forum and woodworking. Do you have any tips on where to get free or very cheap wood to use for small furniture projects? I go to a local tip, and see nice wood in one of the bins but taking things from there is forbidden - I cant think of anywhere else that people...




www.woodworkingtalk.com




Check out this thread for inexpensive wood ideas, for both projects and using in the shop.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

Bob Bengal said:


> The way drill presses are commonly made they aren't designed for side loads on the bit, only vertical pressure. The chuck screws onto a small shaft that is tapered at the top, it is held in place by friction in the tapered hole it fits into.
> 
> With a side load it can fall out of place, shaft, chuck and bit suddenly dropping down. It happened to me once, doing something similar to what you are doing. I was lucky, no blood or machine damage, but it wasn't safe or fun.
> 
> ...


i know about how drill presses aren't supposed to sustain sideway force. i tried applying minimal sideways force with that in mind.
as for holding it in place i couldnt hold it in place whether with clamps or that other method you described as i had to keep moving the block of wood in a circular motion, while the drill was carving the inside, and the drill cuts fairly well.
if everything happens to fall apart well, ill then move on and buy a router i guess. 

also the block of wood wasnt "kicking around" that much. the drill is smooth enough that it doesnt catch the wood so much that it would fling into outer space. most force i exerted on the block was to hold it steady, enough to make the circle as perfect as possible.

ill post pictures if i get a drill stuck in my eye.


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## wwhobbyist (11 mo ago)

Bob Bengal said:


> Another way: most drill press tables have slots. Get a piece of plywood about 19mm thick, about 20cm bigger than the drill's table. Use carriage bolts though the ply and tables slots, drill a shallow hole for the head of the bolt to fit into so it isn't above the level of the ply.
> 
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carriage_bolt#/media/File:Din_603_6.8.jpg
> ...


i appreciate the idea though, as a way of holding the block of wood in the first place when drilling with the forstner drill!


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

wwhobbyist said:


> i appreciate the idea though, as a way of holding the block of wood in the first place when drilling with the forstner drill!


Yes, that is the kind of thing I was thinking of, not when using the end mill.

But if you can lock the work piece to ply like I said, take the bolts holding the ply to the drill press table out and you can move as need for the end mill but your hands are safely away from the action. Also that makes it easier to hold and control if your cutting tool catches on the wood and tries to jerk it out of your hands.

Often when working with small pieces it's good or needed to lock them in place, or in effect make them larger. If you get a router then you can use blocks the same thickness as the work piece to lock it on the ply, then the router base can partly ride on the blocks to keep it from tilting etc.


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