# Bands veering down while cutting. Why?



## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

While using my LT30 a couple of times recently the blades seem to want to steer downwards on some timbers. 1 being cypress log down for 2.5 years to build a garden bridge, other being a 6x12 white pine timber being 4/4 out to make box timbers. Does not seem to be a sharpness issue. What else could it be?:icon_confused:


----------



## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Well a dull blade would have been my first guess. Not enough band tension is my second since you said it was not dull.

Hey welcome to the forum BTW.







.


----------



## junkhound (Nov 6, 2009)

Daren said:


> Well a dull blade would have been my first guess. Not enough band tension is my second since you said it was not dull.
> 
> Hey welcome to the forum BTW.
> 
> ...


I second That. Also the welcome

junkhound


----------



## jeffreythree (Jan 9, 2008)

Hmm, 2 different kinds of wood and the blade is sharp. If tension is right then maybe the tooth set is off on one side versus the other?

And welcome to the forum!


----------



## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

Thanks all for welcome. The last blade I was using is still on and I cut a peice of doug fir this morning with it, no problem. Using 1.25" wm bands resharpened by wm, I try to keep it at about 2500 lbs, with and w/o water.


----------



## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

You are right about the sharpness, a dull blade will rise in the cut not dive. Two things, most likely it will be the second. The first thing to check is that your blade guides are adjusted properly, vertically and horizontally. The second thing to check, is that your blade is flat or slightly cupped up (like a dish). If it has a crown to it it will be very hard to keep it from running without diving.


----------



## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

Guides good, blades not cupped. Is it possible somehow that it is the wood? Two differant species several bands later same problem, but I can take same bands and cut other peices of same species with no problem. :huh:


----------



## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

JMC'sLT30 said:


> Guides good, blades not cupped. Is it possible somehow that it is the wood? Two differant species several bands later same problem, but I can take same bands and cut other peices of same species with no problem. :huh:


Yes it is possible that you are running into some tough to saw wood but it still comes down to the blade in the end. Take another close look at your blade. It does not take much of a crown on a blade to send it down, especially if you are into some difficult wood.


----------



## buroak (Mar 25, 2010)

you may also want to check the blade tracking on the drive wheels. had a similar problem also. called wm and we found the blade was not tracking properly. it was taking the set out and pulling down. I think 1/4 of the blade needs to be in front of the wheels.


----------



## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

I will check into that, Thanks. Kinda makes sense if I hit a tough spot like a horizontal knot if the set is too close to guide it might push into it and down.


----------



## greg4269ub (Sep 1, 2009)

I have a WM LT15 and I always get dip downward when I hit the end grain of a larger knot in the cant. Other wise the only time I track up or down is when the teeth have lost there set. Good luck solving they mystery and welcome to the forum!!


----------



## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

The way we run our bands is, set them so the back of the blade is flush or just a little out from the back of the wheel. Then set the the blade guide rollers about 1/16th back from the blade with a little downward deflection. Also, and this is important, make sure that the blade guide rollers are parallel with the blade.


----------

