# Gunna build a CNC



## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Well after a over a year of research I have decided to build a CNC. I have opted to use some parts from a kit available on the internet and change the plans a bit to better fit my situation. I will be attempting to make this a build thread if y'all are interested. I am not sure how long it will take to complete since I will be working on it in my free time. I am tempted to make an estimate so that I can laugh at my ignorance later. 

Well here we go:

Parts were delivered packaged well












Hardware 










Spindle and freq drive




















Wooden gantry parts (kit)












The next step is to build a table. I am going to weld up a metal subframe and top it with a 4" mdf torsion box. 

More to come...


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Any chance you can tell us where all your parts came from? I own a CNC Shark from Rockler/NextWave Automation. 24.5" x 24.5" work space. I'm looking to upgrade to something that can handle parts up to 48" in length.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

The gantry is a precut kit from www.buildyourcnc.com

I ordered the black foot model. 

Some of the hardware was purchased from there as well. Other parts are from various sites on the interwebs. Much of the hardware offered in the complete kit is offered cheaper directly from hardware supply companies. Also the water cooled spindle and freq drive can be purchased cheaper. Although, to me their mark up does not seem unfair and may be worth the cost to save the hassle of ordering from a bunch of different places and hoping that it all works together. 

I was hoping that there would be a resource here at woodworking talk that would be able to help me make the jump on the cad/cam software. I have been reading and watching a bunch of tutorials and primers, but I have never ran a cnc before. 

It seems that if I create a vector image then there is software available that will convert it to the tool path. Is this correct?


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Ttharp said:


> The gantry is a precut kit from www.buildyourcnc.com
> 
> I ordered the black foot model.
> 
> ...


Hey Tharp prices would be nice to.. I was looking to build one also but was going to go from scratch. Your close to me and I have been wanting to stop over one day. This is just another reason to do it. 

This as a build thread is a good idea.


Send me a PM with info if that sounds good to you.


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

I have Enroute and VCarve experience. I much prefer VCarve Pro 7.0 over Enroute. Vectric.com (who makes VCarve) also sells Cut2D which will toolpath simple 2D vector lines you can import from other sources or create within it. Much cheaper and a good place to start. 

What you get with VCarve Pro is carving, great sign making features, some useful 2.5d toolpathing features, and better editing. Many example videos, and free trial version at vectric.com.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Got about $3,000.00 in hardware parts, gantry kit, freq drive, and water cooled 2.2 kW spindle. I still have to build a table, and buy software. I just decided it was cheaper to build one of these than to outsource some projects I have coming up. 





rrbrown said:


> Your close to me and I have been wanting to stop over one day. This is just another reason to do it.


I'll pm you my contact info. 
You are welcome anytime. I didn't get to start on the table this week like I thought I would, Hopefully next week.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Nice sink.Bet it's one of the most used "tools" in your shop?

May want to look into alternative spindle cooling liquids......it's a rust thing.Best of luck on your build.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

BWSmith said:


> Nice sink.Bet it's one of the most used "tools" in your shop? .


The sinks are great, I actually have two of them in the shop. I picked them up about 2 years before I finished my shop for $75.00 from a place that went out of buisness. I wish I had 5 more. 

I have not read anything on alternative cooling liquids. BESmith, would you care to point me in a direction?


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Step motors came in yesterday 












And the coolant pump and the heat exchanger.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Finally it looks like I am going to get some shop time this weekend. Started cutting the metal for the table base. 






























I am scavenging from my metal pile. Using 4" 11 gauge square tube for the legs. All I could find to cap them with was some 1/2 plate. No prob for the plasma cutter though. ;^) Gunna use 1 x 3 square tube for the apron and cross members.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Well finally! I got to do what I wanted to do today. 










Spent all day metal working and just about finished the base for the torsion box. 

I couldn't find enough 1x3 so I had to use 1/8" 2x2 for the apron. 


Adjustable legs


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## J Thomas (Aug 14, 2012)

That's gonna be one rugged table.. Hope you don't have to move it to often!
Why so heavy duty? is it for motion / vibration dampening?
Looks good so far..will be watching.
..Jon..


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Concrete has 5X the damping as steel.....rubber has 10X.

Be careful on where and how any vibration makes it's travel path.You can design it to be cancel'd "out" or slip up,and have it create a "sound bd" effect......choose the former.

Edit to add;hollow legs are filled with concrete(DP columns,etc)for both,weight and vibration damping.Carry on.

Edit #2;and can do this all day,haha.Take a cheap dial indicator and hold it up to a hollow steel leg while machine is running......watch the needle(should be obvious,this isn't good for indicator,so borrow your buddy's).


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

I don't expect a lot of vibration. The base is going to support a 5' x 10' 4 inch torsion box made with 3/4" mdf. The dividers will be on 9" centers. I have not done the material take off for the mdf yet but I know it's going to be very heavy. I also wanted the middle to be free of any columns so if I decided to put a shelf for sheet goods later I could easily do that.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Got the table base painted. Hope to start the torsion box Monday. Work has been a bear as if late. Not much time for any fun. Anyway once the table is finished its on to assembly of the cnc. I can't wait.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Looking good!


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

BWSmith said:


> Looking good!


Man does it. That is a nice size CNC. :thumbsup:


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## Dandan111 (Oct 29, 2013)

What's a machine like this used for? Sign making? Looks great so far.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Basically to mill wood Dandan

Sign making is a definite possibility, but I am looking forward to making router jigs, carved cabinet door panels, and just the learning process. I have never ran a cnc before. 

I think it was the last issue of Fine Woodworking that had a picture, in the section that shows off other peoples work, of a set of doors that had an inlay scene completely cut with a cnc. It was a forest with the silhouette of trees and snow falling. Seeing that pushed me over the edge to learn what these machines are capable of.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Well the plans had some missing info on the size of the torsion box table, so I had to wait till I heard back from the cnc kit builder. I called, left posts on their message board, and emailed. I found that the best way to get answers was via email. The response was fast enough and information given was worded clear and professionally. 

Well with that out of the way I started cutting the 5' x 10' sheets of mdf up











This was a bear. The first time I have cut sheet goods this large. 

The table top is 51 1/4" wide, that is about 1/2" larger than my fence allows, so I used the off cut from another cut to mark the sheet. Then I cut to an 1/8" of the line with my skilsaw, clamped the off cut back to the sheet and used it as a guide to finish up the cut with my router and a flush trim bit. 










After that it was just a series of narrow rips. When I get home today I hope to cut them to length and start assembly.


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## Dandan111 (Oct 29, 2013)

All the runners should help with any vibration. I bet it's going to be a heavy son of a gun after you get those boards all together!


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Torsion box finished. Now on to the fun stuff.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Started on the gantry. So far the instructions have been fairly good. Materials seem to be of good quality.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I don't know much about these, but I'm very interested to see how this turns out. Looking good so far! How have you been moving that thing around? Forklift or just pure man strength?!


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Ha! I Do have a fork lift if it comes to that. I am hoping to put it on some furniture dollies and move it into place. We will see how much it weighs when I finish. It still gets another piece of 3/4 mdf for the sacrificial top.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Nice shop and its about to get more cool


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

what holds the sheet goods (or other stock) down? clamps, vacuum? 
great so far!


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

I actually toyed with the idea of making the torsion box a vac table. It would be easy to do. But I opted to just clamp. From searching the web I think I am going to use the cnc to bore 1/4 holes on 2 inch centers with every other row offset. Then take adjustable shelf pins and put them on 2 sides of the item to be clamped. On the third side pins would be put in about 2 inches from the work piece and a set of opposing wedges are driven together to lock it In. 

I am open to ideas if anyone has any.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

not familiar with cnc, but other x,y,z travel devices have a "home" position in one corner, and usually have two axis with fences that are fixed. my thoughts are that you could just clamp the stock up against them. 

vacuum would be difficult unless you have full size sheets, or very large vacuum pumps.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

A little mores done today











Began work in the gantry











Mounted rails































Starting on y and z axis


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

looks like gantry axis is chain drive. any others?


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

TimPa said:


> looks like gantry axis is chain drive. any others?


The x and y are chain drive, the z is a ball screw. 

Finished a little more tonight.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Jealous


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Cooling system piped in. Had to build a bracket to mount it all to the y axis. Hope this works. 
























Now to start wiring up. I am having trouble finding information on what wire to use for the power to the spindle. I have read on other forums of people using 18 gauge 4 conductor shielded wire. 2.2kw @ 240 should draw less than 10amps but it seems a little to close to the carrying capacity of the wire for me. I do have some, so may give it a try and see how many Amps it pulls on start up, then later under full load.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Y cable chain installed


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

nec 310-16 states that 18 ga with no more than 3 current carrying conductors can carry 14 amps. what is your spindle motor specs?

http://www.safecoelectric.com/images/resources_pdf/NEC2008 Table 310.16.pdf


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Cooling system worked out. 
http://youtu.be/bShf54y6HfU


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

X Y Z working
http://youtu.be/frbU6e5eHw4


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

First test of gcode 

http://youtu.be/6vduMqgFko0


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## Dandan111 (Oct 29, 2013)

Nice job. Looks great.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

wow. it looks like you're not too far away from making some test cuts! good job!


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Man that is impressive!! 

I was shocked at how fast it moves around. Does the programming allow you to adjust the speed in which each axis moves? Or do you enter the type of material you are cutting and it adjusts itself accounting for depth of cut and all that? Can you enter in grain direction and all that as well?

Sorry for all the questions, I am just fascinated with this thing now.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

The software will control the speed of the movement of each axis. In the video I am running at 80% of maximum speed. You can control every aspect of the cutting process, depth of cut, feed rate, number of passes it takes to cut? Direction of the tool path, spindle rotation direction, extra. 


Like I posted earlier this is a new experience for me. I am having to learn every step of the process. Hopefully soon I can post some actual cutting.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Lookin good! :thumbsup:

Keep us posted. :smile:


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Well u got a couple of days to work on the project again. I had to rewire the entire machine because I decided to locate the computer in a different place than I originally planned for. Got that done and cables prettied up. Got the x axis wire chain installed and was able to run some gcode I found online of a scorpion. 































Here is a video of it running the gcode. 
http://youtu.be/BcfDoANBmLo

I installed limit switches on the x+ x- y+ and y-





















This is where I have run into my first real problem. 
I can't get the software to recognize the limit switches. I have them wired in series and the software is looking for an active low signal but it appears that I am not getting any power through the circuit from my breakout board. The software will allow me to set up soft limits within it, but I really want to go the mechanical route incase the step motors loose their place. Also I will be using 3 switches as home switches to let the software know where to base all calculations and movements from. 

Not much left if I can get this limit switch issue figured out. Probably half a days work. 
What's left:

1 I still have to figure out a way to mount the limit switch for the Z axis. 
2 Run power to the freq drive
3 Build a shelf to mount the computer on
4 Hook up dust collection 
5 Surface the table


Can't wait to get a project going with this thing. So many pictures of inspiring things people are doing with CNCs on the web. 

Hope to have good news soon. Cross your fingers for me. A country boy may be able to build a robot after all.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Sweet! :thumbsup:


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

just a tip/recommendation. good design practice is to mount limit switches so that block will activate the switch, but be allowed to physically move past the switch without destroying it, if the software did not recognize the switch and stop the travel. if you have that already, I apologize.

fwiw an active low means the switch has ground tied to one contact, and ground passes through the normally open switch when the switch is activated (closed). sorry if you already knew this stuff.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

TimPa said:


> just a tip/recommendation. good design practice is to mount limit switches so that block will activate the switch, but be allowed to physically move past the switch without destroying it.


Thanks Tim. I have allowed for some over-travel if the switch were to fail, but if it moves much farther outside the limit it will hit the physical limits of travel of the machine. 


On the active low, it is my understanding that that low is what the computer is looking for In order to trigger a response. I currently have it wired from an input pin, 11 as an example on a serial connection, to ground wired through normally closed input switches. To me it doesn't make since that an input would be supplying 5volts to the circuit but it is what I am being told should happen with my breakout board. So for it to work 5 volts would be continuously supplied through the normally closed circuit until the circuit is broken by the switch which would result in zero volts, or an active low. 

Is my understanding incorrect? 

Any help is greatly appreciated. No need to worry about my ego, I am a complete newbie at this. I have taken on this build with absolutely zero cnc knowledge. Never ran one,never been around one.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

sketched out some logic low ckt's. maybe one will help you. is the switch labeled as normally closed? send or attach some schematics on any ckts you need help with. been working with that stuff for 39 yrs.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Well I got the spindle wired up today. I can't believe how quiet it is. Even cutting. It is quieter than my tablesaw running. I guess I was too close with the mic on my phone because it sounds loud on the video but in person I am in awe. I cut out the scorpion that I had previously gotten. The bit I had chucked up is of a bigger diameter that the gcode was written for so some of the tool paths intersect. I will be able to adjust the code or change the bit and give it another try tomorrow. 

http://youtu.be/ZHkV1coXzrg

Tim thanks for the info. I am still having trouble with the limit switches. At this point I think my breakout board is bad. A new one is on the way.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Man that thing is sweet. I've been so busy lately that I haven't had a chance to come buy. I will be calling you though.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

rrbrown said:


> I've been so busy lately that I haven't had a chance to come buy. I will be calling you though.



Come by anytime. You have got to quit with the "I'm too busy stuff", there are still a few of us younger fellas that think we will get to stop working so hard when we retire.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Playing with some 2d. 
Learning the software Aspire and Mach3












This is fun. I bet I am going to waste a bunch of mdf over the next few days figuring out acceptable feed rates and spindle RPMs


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## NetDoc (Aug 6, 2013)

Way cool. I love it.


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Ttharp said:


> This is fun. I bet I am going to waste a bunch of mdf over the next few days figuring out acceptable feed rates and spindle RPMs


Just to warn you, the speed/feed values you find work well on MDF will not work the same on plywood, hardwood, softwood, plastic, etc.. Get to know upcut and downcut spiral bits. A downcut bit on the first pass will leave the top edges of the tool paths clean. Use an upcut to remove the chips and keep the bit cool when cutting the rest of the way through. 

So much to learn...... Enjoy!


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Thanks 4D

I really appreciate all the advice I can get. 

Do you have suggestions on vbits?

I want to try my hand at vcarving but not sure what bits I should have on hand.


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Ttharp said:


> Do you have suggestions on vbits?
> 
> I want to try my hand at vcarving but not sure what bits I should have on hand.


Justabout any VBit 1/2" diameter, with the pass depth no more than 1/8" or so has worked fine. Be sure and check that the bit is the angle it claims to be or your results won't be as good as the preview indicates. 

On a few occasions I've picked up a new and larger HS Steel VBit for projects in hardwood that had a flat depth of 1/2" or more simply so on the final pass the bit would clean up any pass depth ridges. HSS steel bit are potentially sharper than most carbide tipped bits, but they won't stay sharp as long. 

I've got 1/2" 45 degree (90 combined), 60 combined, and 120 degrees combined in my collection. I use the 60 when I want more depth and 120 when I want less.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

How's the learning curve going? Made anything interesting lately?


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

I just got back from a 2 week trip to the west coast, so not much time lately. I got my vbits in while we were gone and I am thinking about braving the cold to play on it today. 

If I do I will post some pics.


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## router worker (Jan 30, 2014)

I want to build one badly, can build but the travel,wiring and not a complete understanding of how to get the x,y,z. And program it all together seems a little intimidating. Hope I can learn a little from you


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## router worker (Jan 30, 2014)

Just hot on this site, when posting I see a quick post and go advanced. Which should I use anyone,


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

blockofwood said:


> I want to build one badly, can build but the travel,wiring and not a complete understanding of how to get the x,y,z. And program it all together seems a little intimidating. Hope I can learn a little from you


Welcome to the forum. 

I started with zero knowledge of how to build or run one. I am now to the point where I can make the cnc do what I expect it to do with 2d and 2.5d stuff. Starting to learn 3d vcarving. 

With the internet there is a wealth of knowledge easily accessible and lots of people willing to help on forums. With all that there are still lots of things you will just have to design and build/make work by yourself. If you are handy then the task is absolutely doable.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Made my first vcarve today. 











Wife likes owls

I have still not gotten my limit switches to work, the soft limits within mach3 work. I need to focus on this so I can use them for home switches. 

Having lots of fun. As I experiment I think I need to start a log of successful feed and rpm rates for different bits in different materials.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)




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## router worker (Jan 30, 2014)

Well you have done a swell job, looks great. I read were you had seen a carving on a set of raised panel doors, that is exactly what has me on fire go get a unit started. I myself in the same situation. No carving experience , I think I'll get past that, it's just getting it a put together and functioning properly. I looked into a stinger model and cobra, what I want is 18,000$. This looks like a very good option. Thanks for sharing and for all the pictures


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Ttharp: What software did you use to make the toolpaths before loading them into Mach3? It looks like you have simply profiled ON the vectors with a V-bit, which can be fine but will vary greatly depending on how deep you cut. 

One thing I like about Vectric's Vcarve pro software is that it can use the outlines of areas composing a shape, and vary the bit depth to keep the cut within the lines. The result is sharp corners even when the shape comes to a fine point. You can also use a mirror of the same vectors to cut a raised version for the drawing that can be glued into it and sanded flush for perfect inlay.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

4DThinker said:


> Ttharp: What software did you use to make the toolpaths before loading them into Mach3? It looks like you have simply profiled ON the vectors with a V-bit, which can be fine but will vary greatly depending on how deep you cut. One thing I like about Vectric's Vcarve pro software is that it can use the outlines of areas composing a shape, and vary the bit depth to keep the cut within the lines. The result is sharp corners even when the shape comes to a fine point. You can also use a mirror of the same vectors to cut a raised version for the drawing that can be glued into it and sanded flush for perfect inlay.


I am using vetric's aspire. The owls were cut 2d with a vbit just how you thought. I am slowly making it through the bazillion page manual. I am aware that the software will vary the depth, I just haven't figured out how to do it yet. Any pointers would be appreciated. 


I am pretty good at using Photoshop so I have been using adobe illustrator to create/edit vector graphics. Some of the tools Carry over so a lot illustrator Is familiar to me. When I open the files in aspire I have had mix results. Some times things don't show up and I haven't been able to figure out why.


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

To get good VCarved results, I start with a simplified 2-color graphic image of the subject. Google or Bing images are good sources if you search for "owl graphic" for example. The females in my family were all Chi Omega sorority members, and so there were plenty of owls around my house growing up. Always a safe gift subject. 

Paste the image into Aspire/VCarve and then with it selected look for "Trace Bitmap" in the Edit menu. Trace Bitmap will bring up controls to turn the image into outlines around the solid colors. Once you have those outlines you can delete the photo. The outline vectors can be stretched/scaled/mirrored/etc.. I usually (G)roup them together so they are easier to pick as a unit and won't get disassociated from each other. Use the VCarve toolpath with your choice of V-bit, and the results will be as crisp as the source graphic. If your preview cuts too deep then redo it with a flat depth. Flatter v-bits will cut less deep in the same lines. If a 60 degree bit cuts deeper than you want, then switch to a 90 degree (45 degree sides). I'll go as flat as 120 degrees for thin boards or images with large outlined sections.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Well I am getting a better feel for the software and the machine. This has been a fun endeavor and I would tell anyone that wanted to to just dive in head first. 

Here is some of the things I have been making:


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Looks like you are having some fun and really getting the hang of it!

Also, I greatly appreciate you making me this sign. It will fit perfectly hahaha.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

captainawesome said:


> Looks like you are having some fun and really getting the hang of it! Also, I greatly appreciate you making me this sign. It will fit perfectly hahaha.


If ya want it pm me your address and it's yours. It has been primed since the picture but not painted yet.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Done!


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

captainawesome said:


> Done!


Got it. Give me week or so and I should have it in the mail to ya.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I'm so jealous. Now I want one too.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> I'm so jealous. Now I want one too.


That could be our next swap! I'll make you one that says "welcome to the ryan50hrl shop" if you want. Although it will be comic sans font since I'll be using my Rockler sign making kit...


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Ttharp said:


> Got it. Give me week or so and I should have it in the mail to ya.


You sir, are my hero! You gotta let me do something for you in return. Want anything kne could only get in the "lowcountry"?


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

You sure have gotten better with the software since that first owl. I've had VCarve for a few years now, but just upgraded to Aspire. I challenge you to try a little 3D. Aspire looks to have a full rack of 3D creation tools. How about a 3D owl, since you have a market for owls? Look at the teddy bear face example they provide for possible strategies.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

4DThinker said:


> You sure have gotten better with the software since that first owl. I've had VCarve for a few years now, but just upgraded to Aspire. I challenge you to try a little 3D. Aspire looks to have a full rack of 3D creation tools. How about a 3D owl, since you have a market for owls? Look at the teddy bear face example they provide for possible strategies.



I have been looking at the 3d tools and the clipart in aspire. There is some cool stuff in there. Honestly it is the estimated times on the projects that have kept me away so far. Also I am not sure what bits to use. Do you use an end mill to rough in then a ball end or a tapered ball end mill for the detail tool path?

I think I am going to attempt a vcarve inlay next. 


I have still not got my limit/homing switches working yet. I got occupied with learning the software and making saw dust with it. I need to get back to finishing the last 3% of the machine build.


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Depending on how large the 3D part is I may rough with the same tool I finish with but just give the rough pass a larger stepover, or rough with an end mill maybe 2x to 3x times the diameter of the finish bit (often a 1/8" ball nose). Yes, the time it takes for any 3D work to complete is off-putting to me as well. Start small, and weigh how marketable the results are before jumping into a 12 hour cut. :-(


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Thanks for the info.
I didn't jump into this expecting to get a return on investment, but apparently in my area that is going to be very easy to do. 


I have a personal project coming up and I would like to carve a wildlife scene in a panel. 


When/why are tapered ball nose mills used?


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Ttharp said:


> When/why are tapered ball nose mills used?


A tapered bit is stronger and less likely to snap, but has a small tip for very fine detail when 3D cutting. If there are no slopes on your project that are steeper than the slope of the taper then I recommend using one. You won't use a tapered bit when you have vertical slopes within the 3D area.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Well that sure does make since. I don't have any regular ball end mills right now. I need to get a few. I think i will load up a 3d model and try to cut one next week. If I put the tool properties in aspire for the tapered bits, will the preview it generates show if it will cut correctly?


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Ttharp said:


> If I put the tool properties in aspire for the tapered bits, will the preview it generates show if it will cut correctly?


Yes. :yes:


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