# Using Headstock Spur Center



## BobMur321 (Nov 17, 2014)

My son enrolled me in a father/son school project involving building a chess set. I bought a mini wood lathe and a lathe tool set and we're learning how to turn wood. Pretty cool. Now, I'm trying to figure out best way to insert the headstock spur center into a 1-inch dowel so we can turn it (I assume that's the easiest way to make chess pieces). Should I be pre-drilling a hole into the end of the dowel to accept the spur center, or let the spur center bore itself into the end of the dowel while applying pressure from the tailstock? Very grateful for any advice.

Bob


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

What I would do is run the end of the dowel through a table saw twice at perpendicular angles from each other about 3/8" deep. The spur needs something to get a grip on. The center hole would form on it's own.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I would NOT do this*



Steve Neul said:


> What I would do is run the end of the dowel through a table saw twice at perpendicular angles from each other about 3/8" deep. The spur needs something to get a grip on. The center hole would form on it's own.



It's too dangerous. :yes:

I would use a bandsaw to make an "X" on the end OR a handsaw. 
OR drill a hole in a block with a brad point pit that just pierces the opposite side. Slide the block onto the end of the dowel. Then use the small hole to make the center hole.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> It's too dangerous. :yes:
> 
> I would use a bandsaw to make an "X" on the end OR a handsaw.
> OR drill a hole in a block with a brad point pit that just pierces the opposite side. Slide the block onto the end of the dowel. Then use the small hole to make the center hole.


You really think at 3/8" depth that cut is that dangerous? With the fence 7/16" away from the blade I can't see anyone getting into the blade.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I guess if you had a very well constructed JIG you could run thru a table saw, but( woodnthings) is right, DANGEROUS. 

Band, hack,or regular saw is how I have done it. 

I wish you well, ENJOY,

Dale in Indy


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Don't need either one. You could use a coping saw or dovetail saw and cut them by hand. Personally I just tap the wood into the drive center and then move the tailstock up and apply pressure to engage the drive center teeth. Can't remember the last time I made an X in the end. 

In fact many people now use what we call a safe-t drive. It is a cup center with a very short point. If you get a catch the workpiece just stops until you apply more pressure from the tailstock. That's why it's called a Safe-t drive. 

to turn chess pieces I mount the wood between centers. Turn the piece except for the base and very top. Then you start turning these and make a tenon on each end. This tenon gets smaller and smaller and you may have to reduce the tension on the tailstock to keep from breaking the small tenons. when you get them down as small as you dare you can sand the chess piece. Then simply remove the blank from the lathe and cut off both the tenons on the top and bottom. then carve them away and hand sand both ends. 

If you have a chuck and can hold the smaller pieces of wood you do the same procedure as above but you can remove the tailstock toward the end and finish turning and sanding this end. You will still have to do some clean up on the bottom when you part it off.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yep!*



Steve Neul said:


> You really think at 3/8" depth that cut is that dangerous? With the fence 7/16" away from the blade *I can't see anyone getting into the blade.*





smithbrother said:


> I guess if you had a *very well constructed JIG* you could run thru a table saw, but( woodnthings) is right, DANGEROUS.
> 
> Band, hack,or regular saw is how I have done it.
> 
> ...



It's not what or who is getting into the blade. It's what happens if the piece rotates, twists, or goes end for end...kickback.

I am reluctant to tell an experienced woodworker how to do something, but I would not advise a novice to use that method. I wouldn't even do it that way myself after 52 years using the table saw. There are much safer ways as mentioned. If something can go wrong, it will. :yes:


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

If you took a big block of wood, drilled the same size hole in it as the piece you want to cross hatch, and stuck such into the hole, it would probably work, but faster ways to do it as posted. 

Dale in Indy


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

I agree with just tapping it in slightly with a mallet. 1/8" deep is more than enough. If you have a combination square use the 45* to mark some center lines, use any hand saw to cut a kerf if you wish for the wings to seat into.

The "safety center" which John referred to is nice. It is a dead center (from the tailstock) and given a fancy name and moved to the headstock as a friction drive center. You can pay close to $40 for a name brand safety center or the same thing called a dead center for $4. Even though it says Craftsman it is older and well made. I like it so well I ordered another for my daughter for her lathe. This is a 2MT. Nothing to do with the seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-2...67773479?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item4d1b233327


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Take a look at this video, maybe you will not want to use a spur center:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUTQmLk6wS8

There are literally hundreds of videos on turning, it may be worth your while to spend some time watching the different techniques.


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## BobMur321 (Nov 17, 2014)

Thank you all for the discussion. 
We'll be careful. We seem to have discovered a great new interest. 
-Bob


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

For my last few projects, I've been using a Cup Dead Center for my drive center like the one in the link below. I find that if my tools are sharp, it doesn't slip during normal use, but is much more forgiving if a catch happens. 


http://www.whiteheadindustrial.com/p-18947-cup-dead-center-for-wood-lathes-no-46-710.aspx


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

My only problem with a cup center is it requires a fair amount of pressure to drive the wood. If your turning fairly thin it can break the wood. since I turn many things almost to completion leaving a very small nub to carve away when done, they don't work for me. It is a good center for beginners turning larger stuff or learning to use the skew because it will simply stop when you get a catch. 
I also tried the smaller steb center but the spring in the center point is so strong it causes my thinner turnings to flex to much.


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## jdonhowe (Jul 25, 2014)

I'm pretty new to turning myself, but have found this to be easier to use for smaller turnings. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIADT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The multiple small spurs don't need as much force to seat as four large spurs. I usually just use an awl to make a dimple for the center point to align.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

The PSI center is very similar to the Steb Center that I didn't like. For big turnings they work great but for thin turnings the center spring just pushes too hard. Maybe the PSI spring isn't as strong.


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