# Shellac on Sherwood BAC stain



## Jaroslav (Jul 28, 2015)

This is my first post. I am a DIY with a little experience in woodworking and a little experience in traditional oil stain and varnish, but no real success with polyurethane and such. I appreciate being here.

I just finished a big kitchen cabinet project of mahogany, and I do not want to screw it up. This is what I am *testing* on the back of a cabinet door:

I used SW Sherwood BAC wiping stain, then one coat of Zinsser amber shellac, then two coats of Rustoleom water-based polyurethane (all brushed on with a sponge brush). The test is very nice: no blotching, beautiful luster from the amber shellac, and nice patina. 

Sherwin Williams' fact sheet says that one has to spray on the topcoat on this stain, though I brushed on shellac with no blotching. I love shellac, and one layer of amber shellac lends a subtle golden touch to the "Cherry" stain I used.

My main question is this: since my test came out fine, do I need to worry about future problems? 

Additional questions: 
Are two or three coats of polyurethane fine on top of shellac?

Should/Can I use clear shellac instead of the poly? I read that shellac will not stand up to heat, and there will be cabinets to either side of the stove. I love working with shellac; it is so easy to apply and repair. But if I have to remove it, this may possibly require me to re-stain.

I would appreciate any suggestions, especially from those who have used Sherwood BAC wiping stain before.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Jaroslav said:


> This is my first post. I am a DIY with a little experience in woodworking and a little experience in traditional oil stain and varnish, but no real success with polyurethane and such. I appreciate being here.
> 
> I just finished a big kitchen cabinet project of mahogany, and I do not want to screw it up. This is what I am *testing* on the back of a cabinet door:
> 
> ...


Even though we suggest not to brush over it, you can brush over it as long as it has thoroughly dried. The "no brush over BAC clause" is there if people try to brush over it and it has not thoroughly dried and then say there is a problem with the material. Its like that with every competitor as well.

As for the poly, 2 or 3 coats is fine. Just depends on how much build you want/need.


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## Jaroslav (Jul 28, 2015)

Thanks so much. This helps reassure me. 

I also read (on the shellac can) that they do not recommend using shellac under polyurethane, that I should instead use Bullseye Seal Coat (which may be a dewaxed shellac?). Still, my test really worked well. 

This is so confusing. I recall an adhesion problem I had with a table I refinished with oil-based polyurethane. I was able to cure the problem with a layer of shellac.

Is there a good source/book on refinishing products and their compatibility?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You should not put water based polyurethane over amber shellac. The amber shellac is a standard shellac that has a natural wax content and you will have adhesion problems using poly over it. If you had the means of spraying you could use Zinsser Sealcoat over the amber shellac and then use the poly but brushing it you will draw the wax out. You could use clear shellac or a brushing lacquer over the shellac without a problem. Still either product is very difficult to work with a brush. They dry so fast it's nearly impossible not to have major problems with brush marks. Use as soft of a brush as you can find and brush it on as quickly as you can with as few strokes as possible.


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## Jaroslav (Jul 28, 2015)

Thanks. I am waiting to hear from a Zinsser tech, but I will probably try removing the amber shellac with alcohol and then use Seal Coat, like I should have in the first place. 
Happily, I just used shellac on two doors for the under-sink cabinet. I have flaws in those doors, and I may remake them anyway. 
I am still puzzled by why my test (the back of one of those doors) worked; but I do not want to risk the project.
I appreciate your help.


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