# planer burn marks



## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

Hello everybody,

I got some very nice live edge wood (cherry, oak, ash, tree of heaven). I asked a local wood store/shop to do planing for me. This is what I got back. Are these burn marks normal? I tried to clean them off with my hand electric planer and a belt sander, and it takes an enormous amount of time to do so (because some of those lines are indented). I don't have my own 24" planer, so I have to outsource, and this is my first experience doing it. I'm not going back to that shop, because they charge a lot (per minute). 

What do you think: Should I look for another source, or would I get the same result from anybody. Or I should I just bite the bullet and do it myself with what I have (by hand)?

Please advise. 

Thank you for your help!


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## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

I don't think that is normal and in fact I would be just a little upset if it were my wood.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

I'm not sure about the live edge issue or why you got burn marks. The answer to your question could involve a number of conditions so I'm stepping back on that question...

As far as for cleaning the mess, I agree with you that sanding is a waist of time. Pictured below is my disaster involved using an under powered. I cleaned it up with a Stanley #80 scraper I purchased at a yard sale. I can strip a finished 60 X 40 tabletop in less then 10 minutes with my scraper.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

*Nope !!!!!*



Grego said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> I got some very nice live edge wood (cherry, oak, ash, tree of heaven). I asked a local wood store/shop to do planing for me. This is what I got back. Are these burn marks normal? I tried to clean them off with my hand electric planer and a belt sander, and it takes an enormous amount of time to do so (because some of those lines are indented). I don't have my own 24" planer, so I have to outsource, and this is my first experience doing it. I'm not going back to that shop, because they charge a lot (per minute).
> 
> ...


Not acceptable in MY book!!! BUT let's discuss some factors that might have made the percentage of this happening GREATER!!!

Is this on both sides???? This appears to be a chainsaw milled lumber/slabs. Due to this it's harder for a planer to feed the wood through consistantly and the pausing causes the burn from the stopping (the saw cuts run parallel to the feed rollers and hang up/spins in the grooves more). Usually one side is more prone to burns and once flipped it feeds smoother/consistantly.

DULL planer blades!!!

Inexperience with planing wide chainsawed slabs. Inconsistency with most CSM (not all) milled lumber in thickness requires EXTRA time and passes to get prepped for smooth passes and most rush it only to stall the planer dull or sharp.

IMO it's a mixture of all 3 with dull blades being the slightly higher part.


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## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

Kerrys said:


> I don't think that is normal and in fact I would be just a little upset if it were my wood.


Kerrys, you are right about "a little upset". In fact I'm trying not to panic, but I am...



BernieL said:


> I'm not sure about the live edge issue or why you got burn marks. The answer to your question could involve a number of conditions so I'm stepping back on that question...
> 
> As far as for cleaning the mess, I agree with you that sanding is a waist of time. Pictured below is my disaster involved using an under powered. I cleaned it up with a Stanley #80 scraper I purchased at a yard sale. I can strip a finished 60 X 40 tabletop in less then 10 minutes with my scraper.


The live edge is what I want to preserve. The boards are not ideally staring I admit, so it might cause problems to plain them. But still... 

Anyway, you're suggesting using a scraper. I should try it. But first I have to find one.


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## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

Tennessee Tim said:


> Not acceptable in MY book!!! BUT let's discuss some factors that might have made the percentage of this happening GREATER!!!
> 
> Is this on both sides???? This appears to be a chainsaw milled lumber/slabs. Due to this it's harder for a planer to feed the wood through consistantly and the pausing causes the burn from the stopping (the saw cuts run parallel to the feed rollers and hang up/spins in the grooves more). Usually one side is more prone to burns and once flipped it feeds smoother/consistantly.
> 
> ...


Tennessee Tim, probably as you said -- all three factors. Yes, the slabs are rough-cut but, I don't think by chainsaw. 
What seems unusual to me is that people charge by minute time and not by the job done. Lesson learned. :frown2:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I see two problems, dull knives and feed rollers slipping. With dull blades anytime the board slows down or stops it burns.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's not his planer so ...*



Steve Neul said:


> I see two problems, dull knives and feed rollers slipping. With dull blades anytime the board slows down or stops it burns.



The "why" doesn't matter at this point. What to do is the issue now. I would seek out a cabinet shop with a wide belt sander... 24" to 42" usually and have them sand them out. A nominal fee would be under $50.00 for shop time. JMO. My door maker buddy charges $40.00 for under an 1/2 hour work and usually it takes about 20 minutes.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Grego, Those are not burn marks...If you look at them closely, you will find the marks are imbedded rubber from his feed rollers. Kinda like tire skid marks. When a board gets hung up while passing under the blades the feed rollers skid on the wood making those marks. Scrape those marks with a needle and you will find rubber. I am surprised they gave you back the board without correcting their error. Is that board a fresh cut live/wet board, or has it air dried to less than 12 percent moisture?


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## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> The "why" doesn't matter at this point. What to do is the issue now. I would seek out a cabinet shop with a wide belt sander... 24" to 42" usually and have them sand them out. A nominal fee would be under $50.00 for shop time. JMO. My door maker buddy charges $40.00 for under an 1/2 hour work and usually it takes about 20 minutes.


Those people charge $1.50 per minute and I payed about $350. It would be great to find somebody more reasonable. I should look around. 



gmercer_48083 said:


> Grego, Those are not burn marks...If you look at them closely, you will find the marks are imbedded rubber from his feed rollers. Kinda like tire skid marks. When a board gets hung up while passing under the blades the feed rollers skid on the wood making those marks. Scrape those marks with a needle and you will find rubber. I am surprised they gave you back the board without correcting their error. Is that board a fresh cut live/wet board, or has it air dried to less than 12 percent moisture?


Would rubber lines be indented? Those lines are lower than the rest of the surface -- that's why it's hard get rid of them by sanding. 
The boards were kiln dried. I don't know the moisture percentage.

Thank you all very much for your help!


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

was the $350 just for the planing, or included the wood?


i would return to them, bring some samples, and ask for a discount on that work. it is by far the worst planning I have ever seen. then 1. buy your own planer, or 2.take it to someone else. that would should cleanup fine on a well running jointer and planer.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*quesations ...*

Was the wood purchased separately from another source?
Was the woodstore/shop a commercial professional enterprise?
Was it a store that sells wood which also does planing, like Woodcraft where they sometimes have a small shop where they give instructions?
Social media, like this forum, is a good place to post pictures of "unprofessional" outcomes as long as there is no "rant" to accompany them. I would like to know the name and location of this store which has not served you well for future reference. It's obviously not something you are responsible for and you deserve some sort of compensation or at least a better outcome, especially for paying that amount for labor!


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

I would demand the shop refund their charges and buy me new wood.

$350? a lawyer is not a bad thing to think about if the shop owner declines to accept responsibility for that kind of screw up.

utterly horrendous workmanship, totally unacceptable results. looks like they tried to do the whole job in one pass - with a cut so heavy their machines couldn't handle it and they don't know any better.

sez he who is current dressing 8/4 red oak . . . a smidge at a pass . . . no chip out please.....


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

That second picture is particularly horrendous and looks like the work of someone who has never run a planer in their life. Certainly not something I would expect to pay $350 for. Unfortunately, anyone who would willfully hand you a product like this and ask for such an astronomical price isn't someone you want to do business with again. Find another shop/dealer and let them know if they can "un-screw" the other guy's screw-ups for a reasonable price you'll be a loyal customer for life.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Grego, Those are not burn marks...If you look at them closely, you will find the marks are imbedded rubber from his feed rollers. Kinda like tire skid marks. When a board gets hung up while passing under the blades the feed rollers skid on the wood making those marks. Scrape those marks with a needle and you will find rubber. I am surprised they gave you back the board without correcting their error. Is that board a fresh cut live/wet board, or has it air dried to less than 12 percent moisture?


I have never in my life seen a 24" planer with rubber feed rollers. As mentioned above, the serrated feed roller dug trenches when the rough sawn slab stopped feeding. Clearly that shop didn't have a clue. 

I'm with Woodnthings, find a different shop with a widebelt sander, and have them sand the slabs smooth & flat for you. Shouldn't take terrible long with an 80 grit belt. 

Don't know where you're located but if you're anywhere near northeast Pennsylvania I'd be happy to run them thru our widebelt and save you a lot of aggravation.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Grego said:


> Those people charge $1.50 per minute and I payed about $350. It would be great to find somebody more reasonable. I should look around.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The surfacing was done so bad it will take a lot of sanding with a belt sander to remove the marks. By then the wood may be too thin for your needs. I think you are looking at making the wood at least 1/16" thinner than it is now. 

$1.50 a minute is far too much for something as simple as surfacing. If they are getting that price they should be able to afford to sharpen the blades and have a technician adjust the feed rollers if they lack the ability. You might turn to craigslist to locate someone to mill wood for you.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Across the service/retail industry, it is estimated that 94% of dissatisfied customers never return to the offending shop.

That means the managers might not be aware that this kind of work is being sent out to customers. It also means a lot of people are paying a second place to do the work the first place SHOULD have done correctly.

Take it back ... demand satisfaction, and don't take anything less than a perfect job or a refund of all your money.


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## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

*Thank you all for your help!*

First of all thank you all for your participation and help! I didn't expect such a great response!

To answer your questions: That $350 was just for labor, which is fine, considering that there are 14 boards of various sizes and they are not completely straight. I brought my own wood -- and because of that there was a $25 "setting up" fee.

It would be nice to own a planer. But these boards are up to 23" wide and planers with that capacity are too expensive for me. 

I also want to find somebody else who would sand off those marks, but for some reason it's not that easy to find such people. I went through Craig's List and called a couple of places, but they don't do that kind of work. In fact they recommended the same business I just went to. It's a well known place, and they sell nice wood and do some cutting, planing and such. 

Going back to them and demanding a refund, as many of you suggested, would probably be the right thing to do. I already talked to the manager, but he is quite firm that the work was done right. He said that they can do sanding, but for additional charges at their regular price. 

I live on the South Side of Chicago. This business is conveniently not far from me and I would like to have a positive relationship with them, but again, why would I go back if they do such a job.

Thank you all again.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> The surfacing was done so bad it will take a lot of sanding with a belt sander to remove the marks. By then the wood may be too thin for your needs. I think you are looking at making the wood at least 1/16" thinner than it is now.
> 
> $1.50 a minute is far too much for something as simple as surfacing. If they are getting that price they should be able to afford to sharpen the blades and have a technician adjust the feed rollers if they lack the ability. You might turn to craigslist to locate someone to mill wood for you.


"$1.50 a minute is far too much for something as simple as surfacing. If they are getting that price they should be able to afford to sharpen the blades and have a technician adjust the feed rollers if they lack the ability"

$1.50 per minute is about what WOODSNTHINGS states his friend charged. It is not that bad. It just looks bad when you read it. 

George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> "$1.50 a minute is far too much for something as simple as surfacing. If they are getting that price they should be able to afford to sharpen the blades and have a technician adjust the feed rollers if they lack the ability"
> 
> $1.50 per minute is about what WOODSNTHINGS states his friend charged. It is not that bad. It just looks bad when you read it.
> 
> George


The reason $1.50 looks too much to me is I'm charging $.84 per minute and drive 30-40 miles to do it. Too bad the OP is so far away, I have a 24" planer and the means to sand the ruined wood he has. I do tend to forget prices vary a lot around the country. The cost of living in north Texas is probably a lot less than near Chicago. Not long ago I went to Los Angeles and gas was running $3.20 a gallon where here at home I can get it for $1.82.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Grego said:


> Going back to them and demanding a refund, as many of you suggested, would probably be the right thing to do. I already talked to the manager, but he is quite firm that the work was done right. He said that they can do sanding, but for additional charges at their regular price..


...he's firm that the work was done what now? When the wood looks like someone surfaces it with a blowtorch, that work was not done properly...

I'd demand that either the cost of the 'work', for lack not of a better term, be refunded in full, or that the pieces be run through their sander, ideally by someone who knows what they're doing, without charge, and the manager should feel lucky you aren't demanding the damaged pieces be replaced. There's no excuse for crappy work, and that manager needs to pull his head out of his-

I'll let you finish that sentance


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Horrible workmanship! :vs_poop:

Rather than a planer, you may want to look into a router and jig for surfacing slabs.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*too many boards for a router/planer*



Grego said:


> First of all thank you all for your participation and help! I didn't expect such a great response!
> 
> To answer your questions: That $350 was just for labor, which is fine, *considering that there are 14 boards of various sizes and they are not completely straight.* I brought my own wood -- and because of that there was a $25 "setting up" fee.
> 
> ...


So, here's what you do search for cabinet makers or door makers south Chicago:
http://www.yellowpages.com/chicago-il/door-wholesalers-manufacturers

http://www.yellowpages.com/chicago-il/mip/ashland-door-solutions-505913007?lid=1000999311442

Call them and explain your issue and see who would be willing to help.... :smile3:


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Steve Neul said:


> The reason $1.50 looks too much to me is I'm charging $.84 per minute and drive 30-40 miles to do it. Too bad the OP is so far away, I have a 24" planer and the means to sand the ruined wood he has. I do tend to forget prices vary a lot around the country. The cost of living in north Texas is probably a lot less than near Chicago. Not long ago I went to Los Angeles and gas was running $3.20 a gallon where here at home I can get it for $1.82.


Yeah costs sounded high @ $1.50 a minute BUT that's only $90.00 an hour which is reasonable IF your getting quality work/workmanship....I own a business and try to keep up with rising costs of business. After running the numbers here....$350.00 -$25.00 set-up = $325.00 / $1.50 per min = 216.666667 mins / 14 pcs = 15.47619 min per board which equals= SOMEONE needs to learn how to run a planer CORRECTLY!!!!

Grego...you might advise the manager to look at this thread then make his opinion on "correctness" .....a matter of fact he and his workers need to read this thread.....MOST of all the facts he/they need are stated.....even how to correct the problem....Those are the worst burnt I've ever seen, GROSSLY WRONG!!!! Actually in the court of law they would also be liable for the loss of lumber at the stage they got it to, more thickness has to be lost for correcting. Anyone could've destroyed those for a LOT LESS!!! Show him the cherry angel table on my website...I smoothed it with a 9" sanding disc on a grinder...NO planer. Actually that's how I flatten/smooth all the slabs that I finish in projects. I don't try for flat as glass BUT very close with a years of rub and wear feel.

Costs per area will fluctuate, and some just sell themselves out to cut others prices. You paid a quality price and should receive a quality job.

I'm with Woodnthings, TOO many for router planer.....unless time is all you have.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> too many boards for a router/planer


So waht?

It doesn't take that long...

:happybday:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Tennessee Tim said:


> Yeah costs sounded high @ $1.50 a minute BUT that's only $90.00 an hour which is reasonable IF your getting quality work/workmanship....I own a business and try to keep up with rising costs of business. After running the numbers here....$350.00 -$25.00 set-up = $325.00 / $1.50 per min = 216.666667 mins / 14 pcs = 15.47619 min per board which equals= SOMEONE needs to learn how to run a planer CORRECTLY!!!!
> 
> Grego...you might advise the manager to look at this thread then make his opinion on "correctness" .....a matter of fact he and his workers need to read this thread.....MOST of all the facts he/they need are stated.....even how to correct the problem....Those are the worst burnt I've ever seen, GROSSLY WRONG!!!! Actually in the court of law they would also be liable for the loss of lumber at the stage they got it to, more thickness has to be lost for correcting. Anyone could've destroyed those for a LOT LESS!!! Show him the cherry angel table on my website...I smoothed it with a 9" sanding disc on a grinder...NO planer. Actually that's how I flatten/smooth all the slabs that I finish in projects. I don't try for flat as glass BUT very close with a years of rub and wear feel.
> 
> ...


Even if they are getting $90 an hour I can't see it taking almost 4 hours labor to surface 14 boards. I think I could surface 14pc 8/4 boards to 1/4 in an hour.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Steve Neul said:


> Even if they are getting $90 an hour I can't see it taking almost 4 hours labor to surface 14 boards. I think I could surface 14pc 8/4 boards to 1/4 in an hour.


Oh I totally agree the total cost was too much....I was just stating the $1.50 sounded extreme until broken down to the hourly rate. I just added all the rest to show 15 minutes per board is too much time even if done correctly AND sanded!!


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## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

epicfail48 said:


> ...he's firm that the work was done what now? When the wood looks like someone surfaces it with a blowtorch, that work was not done properly...
> 
> I'd demand that either the cost of the 'work', for lack not of a better term, be refunded in full, or that the pieces be run through their sander, ideally by someone who knows what they're doing, without charge, and the manager should feel lucky you aren't demanding the damaged pieces be replaced. There's no excuse for crappy work, and that manager needs to pull his head out of his-
> 
> I'll let you finish that sentance


Yes, epicfail48, I can finish that sentence... 
Thank you for your support. I'll go back to have a chat with them.



mdntrdr said:


> Horrible workmanship! :vs_poop:
> 
> Rather than a planer, you may want to look into a router and jig for surfacing slabs.


I saw some people show this on youtube. It looks like an attractive way to substitute a planer. Thanks mdntrdr!


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## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

Thank you all for your help!!!



woodnthings said:


> So, here's what you do search for cabinet makers or door makers south Chicago:
> http://www.yellowpages.com/chicago-il/door-wholesalers-manufacturers
> 
> http://www.yellowpages.com/chicago-il/mip/ashland-door-solutions-505913007?lid=1000999311442
> ...


Thank you Woodnthings for the links, I should find some nice and able people who can do quality work. But first I actually want to go back and try making them to "fix" what they've done. 



Tennessee Tim said:


> Yeah costs sounded high @ $1.50 a minute BUT that's only $90.00 an hour which is reasonable IF your getting quality work/workmanship....I own a business and try to keep up with rising costs of business. After running the numbers here....$350.00 -$25.00 set-up = $325.00 / $1.50 per min = 216.666667 mins / 14 pcs = 15.47619 min per board which equals= SOMEONE needs to learn how to run a planer CORRECTLY!!!!
> 
> Grego...you might advise the manager to look at this thread then make his opinion on "correctness" .....a matter of fact he and his workers need to read this thread.....MOST of all the facts he/they need are stated.....even how to correct the problem....Those are the worst burnt I've ever seen, GROSSLY WRONG!!!! Actually in the court of law they would also be liable for the loss of lumber at the stage they got it to, more thickness has to be lost for correcting. Anyone could've destroyed those for a LOT LESS!!! Show him the cherry angel table on my website...I smoothed it with a 9" sanding disc on a grinder...NO planer. Actually that's how I flatten/smooth all the slabs that I finish in projects. I don't try for flat as glass BUT very close with a years of rub and wear feel.
> 
> ...


Tennessee Tim, thank you, I too was thinking of showing to him this thread -- what people are saying about their work quality.



Steve Neul said:


> Even if they are getting $90 an hour I can't see it taking almost 4 hours labor to surface 14 boards. I think I could surface 14pc 8/4 boards to 1/4 in an hour.


You know, Steve Neul, I'm not a professional in this area, but I too was puzzled a bit about amount of time it took them doing my boards. 



Tennessee Tim said:


> Oh I totally agree the total cost was too much....I was just stating the $1.50 sounded extreme until broken down to the hourly rate. I just added all the rest to show 15 minutes per board is too much time even if done correctly AND sanded!!


AND sanded, you say? Wow, that would be nice! But again, as I said, I wouldn't complain about the price if it was done nicely.


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## Brian(J) (Feb 22, 2016)

I have a 12" planer, and the work that comes out of it is smooth and needs little work before finishing. So I would have used a track saw to rip these down the middle, surfaced them, and then joined them back together. That also takes some of the tension out of the planks, so less warping down the road, it's not difficult to do and the joints are almost invisible. By having planks less than 12" you have more options.


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## Grunttruck (Jul 9, 2016)

Wow.. one would have thought after the first board, the operator would have said "something isn't right here.." and stop to remedy it, instead of carrying on with 13 more boards. I am an apprentice welder, and when I smell something burning, I investigate because it's usually me. I would think, of all people, the smell of wood burning would freak out a woodworker.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A wide belt sander....why?*

A thickness planer has "press" rollers that push the wood against the bed, causing it to compress as it feeds through the machine. They also cause a bit of friction depending on the type of planer, some have rollers in the bed, others just have a smooth slick surface. A 24" planer would have rollers in my experience.










You can see the bed rollers in the slots on the bed of this Powermatic thickness planer:









On the other hand, a dual drum or wide belt sander has a moving bed of rubber coated material which will grips the material along its entire surface, usaully about 36" of length. It still operates under down pressure by the sanding drum or in the case of a wide belt 2 contact rollers, depending on the design.. 









This allows for a whole different outcome than a thickness planer AND you can by using a coarse belt like 36 grit, "thickness" the material as well as sand it to a perfect finish.


This is why I recommended you seek out a cabinet shop or custom door builder for this issue. MInor variations in thickness will not cause the material to jam or burn in a wide belt. A drum sander, like I have is a bit more "finicky" and requires lighter passes to avoid burning or stalling because there is less contact surface doing the work. I use a dual drum, with a coarse grit like 50 or 80 on the infeed drum and a finer grit like 100 or 150 on the outfeed drum.

My door maker buddy has a 42" wide belt with belts in all sorts of grits which can be changed out in a matter of minutes depending on the wood or finish that is required. Pine and other sappy wood are almost never used in his shop because they will gum up the belts and cause burn marks after that occurs. I don't recall reading what the exact type of wood was in this thread...?


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## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

Brian(J) said:


> I have a 12" planer, and the work that comes out of it is smooth and needs little work before finishing. So I would have used a track saw to rip these down the middle, surfaced them, and then joined them back together. That also takes some of the tension out of the planks, so less warping down the road, it's not difficult to do and the joints are almost invisible. By having planks less than 12" you have more options.


Thanks Brian(J), this is also looks like a good way to do it. Today is a D-day, I'm going back to the shop and we'll see what to do after that. 



Grunttruck said:


> Wow.. one would have thought after the first board, the operator would have said "something isn't right here.." and stop to remedy it, instead of carrying on with 13 more boards. I am an apprentice welder, and when I smell something burning, I investigate because it's usually me. I would think, of all people, the smell of wood burning would freak out a woodworker.


Exactly, Grunttruck! That's what I would do too, and call the customer and say, such and such, come and look... 



woodnthings said:


> A thickness planer has "press" rollers that push the wood against the bed, causing it to compress as it feeds through the machine. They also cause a bit of friction depending on the type of planer, some have rollers in the bed, others just have a smooth slick surface. A 24" planer would have rollers in my experience.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you Woodnthings, for the illustrations. Let's see if I can find somebody with this kind of sander. But as I said, I'll see today if they will take the wood back and sand it, fix it...


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Not knowing the condition of the boards before planning, and knowing how many times they went thru the jointer and planer, it's hard to determine if the price was right.

However..... the finished surface was unacceptable. 
Depending if they can be resurfaced and still have a usable thickness for the project, would be the key to my approach to the owner of the shop who screwed it up.

If I can't use the boards after re planing, because of being too thin, I would be looking for the shop to be reimbursing me for the wood cost and planning. The job you got is not acceptable. 

What would it cost you to replace the wood? 

Crappy "professional" work, be it, woodworking, AC (long story) or other, drives me crazy (er). More people should stand their ground and refuse to accept it.


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## JohnWood (Aug 30, 2015)

*Happy ending!*

I'm very happy to report the ending of this story!

This morning we (my wife)) called the shop and talked to the manager. The man was polite and professional, and he promised to take care of it. When he examined the wood in person, he said that it should've been sanded instead of being planed. Then he did what he promised -- sanded it on both sides. Now I got my wood back and it looks just beautiful! What a relief! 

During the conversation we mentioned (not in threatening tone) that we consulted the professional woodworkers at this forum, but also saying that we didn't publish the name of their business. Probably they would've resolved this anyway, but it certainly gave us more confidence. 

So I want to heartily thank everyone of you for your friendly support and expertly advice on this matter!!! I'm very happy that I joined this forum!


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