# Workbench top



## myndflyte (Feb 7, 2017)

I'm drawing up the plans for my first project which is a workbench that will be in my garage. Since I live in Wisconsin, it has to stand up to humid summers and sub-zero temps in the winter. I'm pretty set on the general structure and layout but the last decision is the workbench top. I'm sort of limited by what is available at my local HD but here's what I'm thinking of doing.

I'd like to go with a 3/4" MDF panel and screw in a 3/16" tempered hardboard panel on top so it's something that can be replaced if necessary. Do you think I should sandwich the MDF panel between a piece of plywood and the hardboard panel or will the MDF panel alone be sturdy enough?

Being just a workbench, I know it doesn't have to be perfect but I'd like something that'll last and can take a little beating. Any advice would be great.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Tempered Masonite makes a good workbench top. It will hold up better than MDF. Key word here is "tempered". When waxed, it is an easy top to clean. 
On a workbench, I think you need a 1 1/2" top. If you add the 1/4" or 3/16" Masonite, you're up to as much as 1 3/4". That will be good. A 3/4" top plus the Masonite will still be too thin in my opinion. 
The idea of building workbench tops like this is you can pull off the top and either turn it over or replace it when it starts to look bad.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

MDF will bow under its own weigh on larger spans - 24" or so. a single 3/4 MDF panel will not a sturdy bench make....

but - always one of those . . . depends on what kind of stuff you envision doing on the bench.

weight: yeah, neat stuff weight. mass, does not move around, little bouncing, etc., when you start pounding on it or have something clamped for sawing / planing / whatever. MDF will not have enough weight to stay put - you'll need to fasten it to something somehow (floor / wall)

if you're looking into long term, go for 2.25 inch thick maple - can be special ordered but typically is not stocked. option 2, butcher block counter tops. ask - you might pick up a dinged up / special order with some error / etc real cheap. they're not as thick, but way more better than 3/4 MDF.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Use solid core door!


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If you have money to burn go with the hardwood, otherwise use a couple layers of 3/4" MDF and cover it with hardboard, as a buddy of mine would say, "It is a workbench not a Piano Bench.":laugh2:


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

MT Stringer said:


> Use solid core door!


Like I said, a solid core door. I bought one at the Habitat ReStore for under $10. It made a great workbench. I covered it with Formica so glue and stains wouldn't stick. 

Solid and flat. Nuff said. :thumbsup:


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## Rodrat (Aug 31, 2016)

I laminated a bunch of 2x4 boards and planed them smooth. Its a pretty solid top at just over 3 1/3 inches thick. 

I use almost exclusively hand tools so I like it.


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## GuitarPhotographer (Jun 26, 2015)

3/4" plywood glued to 3/4" MDF with 1/4" tempered masonite screwed to the MDF side. Rockler T-track down one side and across the top. 3/4" dog holes down the other side, in line with a 9" woodworking vise.

The top is better than the legs, which have a racking problem, yet to be addressed.


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## myndflyte (Feb 7, 2017)

Rodrat said:


> I laminated a bunch of 2x4 boards and planed them smooth. Its a pretty solid top at just over 3 1/3 inches thick.
> 
> I use almost exclusively hand tools so I like it.


Actually the more I thought about it, I think I may go this route.


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## NoNails (Jun 6, 2016)

myndflyte said:


> Actually the more I thought about it, I think I may go this route.


There are many You-Tube video's on workbench construction including top lamination. Paul Sellers is one author that comes to mind.


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

If you choose to laminate 2x material, I suggest you stay away from the funky 2x4's and obtain 2x10's or 2x12's and rip to your chosen size, be it 3 1/2", 3", 4", etc. The 2x4's around here are so bad one can almost watch them move. Using the wider boards worked well for me when I built my Roubo bench. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

MT Stringer said:


> Use solid core door!


I was working at a bank remodel once that they were pitching 10 ft solid core fire doors, my buddy and I got a few out, they do make a hell of a good bench, and these already has P lam on them plus you can route cords through the door handle hole, if thye are kind of permanent, as a matter of fact I am typing on one of them that was made into my desk in my cubbyhole 

But Boy Howdy are they heavy


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## myndflyte (Feb 7, 2017)

WesTex said:


> If you choose to laminate 2x material, I suggest you stay away from the funky 2x4's and obtain 2x10's or 2x12's and rip to your chosen size, be it 3 1/2", 3", 4", etc. The 2x4's around here are so bad one can almost watch them move. Using the wider boards worked well for me when I built my Roubo bench.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Actually this was what I was going to do. I was going to buy 2x12's and rip what I needed from that.


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