# How would you inlay steel table legs into an uneven table top bottom?



## bittiker (Dec 16, 2012)

I have about 15 live-edge table top slabs that I will be attaching 'hairpin' style steel legs to. 

The issue that I am having is that some of the slabs warped during the drying process, and so I couldn't plane the bottoms totally flat. So, a given slab might vary in thickness from 3" on one side to 1.5" on the other side. I'd rather not plane the slabs down to the minimum thickness for fear of losing structural integrity, so instead I plan on inlaying the baseplates of the legs to consistent heights on the table bottom. The attached sketch better illustrates what I'm going for.

So here's my question: How would you inlay steel table legs into an uneven table top bottom?

What I'm planning to do is build a router template in the shape of the legs, span it across 2 2x4's on either side of the slab, and route out 4 'leg holes' in the same shape as the table leg bases, using a spiral bit. This method seems like it could be a headache though. Does anyone have any other ideas as to how it could be done better? Any advice, thoughts would be really appreciated. Thanks, Danny @stemfurniture

www.stemfurniture.com


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*route the openings*

They need to be parallel or in the same plane, not necessarily at the same depth. Then attach the legs normally. They will be at different lengths when the table is turned over. Scribe a line up from a level surface at the minimum need to cut some material off all but the shortest leg. 

To rout the recesses in the same plane make a jig/template for the router base that you can use a level(s) to maintain the plane. The template can be used with a guide bushing to give the desired shape riding inside the template. An adjustment screw in each corner will work to level it out. Then attach the jig to the bottom using a long screw into the bottom.

If the recesses are not in the same plane the legs will stick out at different angles...... not attractive.


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## bittiker (Dec 16, 2012)

Thanks Woodnthings. I sketched out the jig that I think you're describing. (attached). That way is probably simpler than using a sled type of setup.

What I don't understand is how I would know how far down I would need to cut using this method. The only way I can think of would be to use outside calipers or something


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Just enough for a flat surface*

You need a flat surface to screw the leg attachments to. The sketch you show is what I had in mind. You will need to trim the ends of the legs with this approach. If they were all at the same plane, NOT depth, then that would not be necessary. 

If you want to avoid trimming the legs then the depths would have to be (X) inches down from the legs of equal length, held in a plane across their ends....way too complicated for my brain. :yes:

 
If you can do this as you posted in another thread on sleds. then why not just wedge the workpiece so it won't shift and use a plunge router in the template set to a depth that will create a flat in all 4 corners?


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Turn it upside down on a drill press, drill corners and an additional bunch of holes where the legs go. Using a depth stop, all holes will be the same distance from the top surface. Use a chisel to clean out the hole and smooth the bottom of the cut.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Alchymist said:


> Turn it upside down on a drill press, drill corners and an additional bunch of holes where the legs go. Using a depth stop, all holes will be the same distance from the top surface. Use a chisel to clean out the hole and smooth the bottom of the cut.


I like this approach. It makes all of the legs exactly the same length.

This could also be done with a large jig and a router.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> I like this approach. It makes all of the legs exactly the same length.
> 
> This could also be done with a large jig and a router.
> 
> ...


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

If you have access to a CNC service/shop in your area, the pockets for the legs would be relatively simple to cut. Often they'll give you a quote. If you can produce a CAD (digital) drawing of the board with the slots where you want them you might save some money.


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## wooddude (Jun 14, 2011)

this is what i came up with,the top of the slab sits to the bottom of the jig thats the index point,the router bit is set to a specified depth off the bottom so now all pockets are equal.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*it will require a very large table on a DP*



Alchymist said:


> Turn it upside down on a drill press, drill corners and an additional bunch of holes where the legs go. Using a depth stop, all holes will be the same distance from the top surface. Use a chisel to clean out the hole and smooth the bottom of the cut.


If the slabs are table size, 3ft X 7 ft, a drill press will be unmaaghble in my opinion as lots of weight and material will be hanging off the table. It's better to move the tool to the work, as on a router sled, than the work to the tool when pieces are large and heavy. The slabs would have to be leveled as best as possible then wedged in place, the when you shift to the other end all that becomes lost unless your have a large suport table to attach eveything to and then ....etc..... I wouldn't.
 
He already has the router sled as shown in his photo, so just use it to make level pads for the legs with a plunge router. Couldn't be more simple. :no:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

I would be tempted to use a large Forstner bit and drill three holes for the L mount, set the stop starting at the narrowest corner of the slab. This would eatablish a constant depth, if these are hairpin legs they can't be cut to length.


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