# Turning Glued wood blanks



## Mr. G

I am still in the novice stage of woodturning. Is it OK to glue 2 or 3 1x8"x8" pieces together and the cut it into a round block to make a dish or bowl out of it?








 :huh:


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## sawdustfactory

Sure. Just keep your tools sharp, take light cuts and keep your bevel in contact with the wood and you'll be fine. Show us pics when you're done.


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## jlmarta

I've turned a number of segmented bowls, weed pots, etc. without any problems. I use TiteBond II or III, whichever I have on hand. Works for me.....


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## Dave Paine

Yes, many people do this. You just want to wait for the glue to set before you start turning.

This is a recent bowl from pieces of boards glued together.

The top ring is from two pieces of walnut glued in the middle.


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## john lucas

Of course you can. You could glue 100 1" square pieces together if you wanted. It's fun and the design possibilities are limitless. There is a segmented woodturners group that you can access online. These guys do unreal things with wood. Of course the lamp I just finished had 400 pieces and is 48" tall 17" in diameter. Here it is before it was finished. There is another segmented ring that goes on top. I hope to get a finished photo sometime next week.


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## BigJoe16

As long as the wood is flat and gets glued together good you can turn it. Clamp it up good and it should turn out fine. Here's a segmented bowl I just made. It has 57 pieces in it.


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## dmh

My Turn!:laughing:

Yes you can. Some of my latest glued together pieces....:smile:


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## Jimbo.

Well if you all are them I will as well! 

Yes you can, my second segmented creation










Dmh, that pen is really nice, did you just cut it on a diagonal to get the curve affect?


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## dmh

Jimbo. said:


> Dmh, that pen is really nice, did you just cut it on a diagonal to get the curve affect?


No, it's cut with a curve on the band saw with the help of a circle citting jig.


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## jharris2

Is it best to alternate the grain 90° on each successive layer as you glue up your blank or orient the grain in one direction?


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## jharris2

dmh said:


> No, it's cut with a curve on the band saw with the help of a circle cutting jig.


How about this:






Seems like this would work although I wonder how thick of stock you could safely cut using this method.

????


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## dmh

jharris2 said:


> Is it best to alternate the grain 90° on each successive layer as you glue up your blank or orient the grain in one direction?


If possible it's best to keep the grain going in one direction.


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## dmh

jharris2 said:


> How about this:
> 
> Seems like this would work although I wonder how thick of stock you could safely cut using this method.
> 
> ????


That would work for half of it, but cutting the other half of the blank would be the tricky part. BTW, does that guy make anyone else a little nervous.:blink:

If you guys hadn't seen it, here is a little how-to on how that blank is made. I just updated it to include one like that. :thumbsup:


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## robert421960

dmh said:


> If possible it's best to keep the grain going in one direction.


why?
seems if it is spinning in a circle it shouldnt matter.and alternating the grain would make the blank stronger.
but dmh i know you know far more than me so eplain please


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## dmh

robert421960 said:


> why?
> seems if it is spinning in a circle it shouldnt matter.and alternating the grain would make the blank stronger.
> but dmh i know you know far more than me so eplain please


It's because of the way the wood moves. It's like gluing a butt joint end grain to long grain. Eventually the wood is going to move in different directions and the joint will break. From everything I've read it's ok if your using small pieces. (I did it with the diamonds on the vase in my avatar and it hasn't had a problem that I've heard of) But just butting a whole ring end grain to long grain I don't see how you couldn't have problems. If you see something like that done it's usually done with a rabbet joint between the two pieces (rings).


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## dmh

and I'm assuming jharris was asking about segmented rings. At least that's what I'm talking about.:huh:


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## robert421960

dmh said:


> and I'm assuming jharris was asking about segmented rings. At least that's what I'm talking about.:huh:


 ahh my bad 
i was talking about flat wood glued together lol
now i totally agree with ya:yes::yes::yes:


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## dmh

robert421960 said:


> ahh my bad
> i was talking about flat wood glued together lol
> now i totally agree with ya:yes::yes::yes:


Not your fault. :no: I just figured segmented because of all the segmented pictures. After I replied to you I went back and read his question and I was a little confused. Was he talking about a pen blank, blocks of wood glued together or something segmented?

I say we blame it on jharris since it doesn't look like he's online at the moment to defend himself.:laughing:


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## jharris2

dmh said:


> and I'm assuming jharris was asking about segmented rings. At least that's what I'm talking about.:huh:




No worries,

I was thinking about small bowls and the like. Wasn't thinking about segmented because I'm so new to this although any information is greatly appreciated.

In my OP I mentioned mortar and pestle.

I have a 4 /4 x 4" x 8' piece of teak I'd like to use for it once I get past my initial experimentation and get some confidence. 

I don't feel the need to defend myself. I should have been more specific and you guys have been really helpful 

So let's say for simple starter projects, no segmentation, hollow forms, no end grain to long grain etc., should I alternate the grain when gluing up my blanks?

I also thought about buying the most knot free, non pressure treated 8' 4x4 I can find, knocking the 4 corners off on my TS and cutting dif lengths to experiment on. Watcha think.


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## robert421960

that is a good idea
scrap 2x6x whatever cut and glued together is good to play with
what i was talking about earlier was say a 4/4 x 6 x6 piece of cherry and one of walnut i had made a bowl by turning the grain 90 degreesand stacking 4 of them op then turning them
hope you understand my rambling:huh:


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## dmh

If your just gluing up solid flat pieces (like a 1x6 or 2x6 cut square) to practice on or what ever I would glue them with the grain all going in the same direction. That way all of your end grain is all together on one end or side depending how you mount it. Or you could do it like Robert said. Depends on the look your trying to get.

Just make sure you have good flat glue joints. Something like that coming apart on the lathe could ruin your day.


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## dmh

And definitely knock the corners off if you can.


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## dmh

ooops double post


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## jharris2

dmh said:


> Just make sure you have good flat glue joints. Something like that coming apart on the lathe could ruin your day.



;<o pucker!

Got it. I'll run the long stock through my planer to get it flat both sides then cut to lengths that match the stock width to get all my squares.

Cut two pieces of matching squares out of 3/4 inch plywood to distribute clamping pressure evenly from the top and bottom of the stack (no glue on these).

Glue the stack using Titebond II for more time.

Apply smaller C-clamps around the perimeter tightening gradually working my way around the stack somewhat like tightening lug nuts for a tire change.

Then position a large C-clamp over the perimeter clamps at the center point and tighten.

Then go online and order a flak vest, face shield and Kevlar athletic cup.

Next, crack a beer, dig up the full face motorcycle helmet from my insane clown crotch rocket days, blow off the dust and wait for the packages to arrive and the glue to cure.

By that time the beer effects will have worn off and I'll be good to go.

EEK!


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## robert421960

sounds like you got it all covered:laughing:


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## dmh

jharris2 said:


> ;<o pucker!
> 
> Got it. I'll run the long stock through my planer to get it flat both sides then cut to lengths that match the stock width to get all my squares.
> 
> Cut two pieces of matching squares out of 3/4 inch plywood to distribute clamping pressure evenly from the top and bottom of the stack (no glue on these).
> 
> Glue the stack using Titebond II for more time.
> 
> Apply smaller C-clamps around the perimeter tightening gradually working my way around the stack somewhat like tightening lug nuts for a tire change.
> 
> Then position a large C-clamp over the perimeter clamps at the center point and tighten.
> 
> Then go online and order a flak vest, face shield and Kevlar athletic cup.
> 
> Next, crack a beer, dig up the full face motorcycle helmet from my insane clown crotch rocket days, blow off the dust and wait for the packages to arrive and the glue to cure.
> 
> By that time the beer effects will have worn off and I'll be good to go.
> 
> EEK!


Or you could just get a green log to practice on.:blink:


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## jharris2

Sounds like that's a big no-no?


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## oldmacnut

What are you thinking?, ha!!, gluing pieces together to make something to turn, only idiots would do that.

LOL. Oh, here is yesterdays work.










Sent from my SGH-T989 using Woodworking Talk


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## jharris2

A bit intimidating but not enough to discourage.

Ample awe to inspire.

It would have taken me a week of head scratchin' and a prescription for anti-anxiety meds just to make the cuts.

How the blazes do you clamp those?

Edit: Me thinks band clamps on the cylindrical ones No clue on the conical ones.

Just great! Need more clamps.

I'm getting sucked into the dark void and the retros are out of fuel.


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## oldmacnut

Woodturner Pro. Its software for designing segmented things, and it tells you all the info for miters, how much material, etc. It makes it possible for me to crank out 5 bowls in 1 night.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Woodworking Talk


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