# Straight boards with no jointer



## skelrad (Apr 29, 2013)

I know I've seen this referenced before, but can't find it now. I don't have a jointer. What is the best way to get a straight edge on boards that I can then use as a reference for ripping on the table saw? Is it best to buy some sort of a long piece of extruded aluminum or something like that and attach the board to it for the first straightening cut? If so, how do you attach it - screws, double sided tape, etc?

Pictures are worth a thousand words for me, so if anyone can point me to a how-to, that would be awesome. Thanks!


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

skelrad said:


> I know I've seen this referenced before, but can't find it now. I don't have a jointer. What is the best way to get a straight edge on boards that I can then use as a reference for ripping on the table saw? Is it best to buy some sort of a long piece of extruded aluminum or something like that and attach the board to it for the first straightening cut? If so, how do you attach it - screws, double sided tape, etc?
> 
> Pictures are worth a thousand words for me, so if anyone can point me to a how-to, that would be awesome. Thanks!


If you google *- straight edge jig - *you can see several examples for both using the table saw and a portable circular saw. I have a shop made jig for the circular saw and find it excellent even though it is made from mostly scrap material that has one factory edge.


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## skelrad (Apr 29, 2013)

Perfect! I just didn't know what to call the thing, so was having a terrible time finding examples. Thanks!


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

You don't need aluminum, you can just use some ply or mdf and some toggle clamps. Alternatively a jointer plane would do it.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If it was me I would put a screw in each end of the board to hold it. I would not trust two sided tape to hold the wood. If your intention for the straight edge is for a glue up be sure to use a really sharp blade so it makes as smooth a cut as possible. Using toggle clamps is a good idea if you have boards close to the same width.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

There's the budget router table version too. 

Mine uses the factory edge on a piece of 3/4 MDF. The glued on spacer strip on the left side of the bit was ripped from a piece of junk pvc siding. Works great.


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

Looks like my first router table, circa 1975, SteveEl.

I use my tracksaw if possible or my Jointability. I hate having to setup my jointer almost every time I use it. When I want to cut a straight edge on my tablesaw, I use a strip of plywood with the workpiece just screwed or taped on. I know you're going to ask!


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

I don't have a picture of mine, but this one is similar. I really haven't used it since my wife got me a number 8 jointer plane on eBay, though. Plane it straight, square if you're good, but that is actually optional... rip it parallel to that edge and then you can flip the board around and rip the hand planed edge if it wasn't square. Less fumbly than clamping them into the jig.

I tried the router table method but I don't really like using a router... something always seems to go wrong. I probably just need more practice with mine.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*there are many like this one*

A base of thin material, a hardwood edge to run against the fence, a stop block in the front and a few toggles to hold the board securely in place. I made two different lengths, an 8 footer and a 5 footer:

Attached Thumbnails


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Yes, that's just like mine! I must've stolen the design from woodnthings. The toggles can be had cheaply at Harbor Freight.


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