# True dust collector, finally!



## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

So my wife says to me the other day, why don't you go buy that Harbor Freight dust collector you've been wanting.  Umm....OK! I used the coupon and got it for $140. I then made a Thien separator for it from the online information. Most of the dust in the bag is pre-separator stuff, just fooling around stuff when I got it together. Thank you mister Thien for the work on the separator you did. It seems to work very well. I am just learing about dust collection. I know I should put a grounding wire in the plastic separator and that is high on my to do list. I haven't had a chance to really work the machine yet so I can't comment on it's performance. I don't think it is too loud. Everything went together very easily and looks good. I have a Wynn cartridge filter on the way to really improve filtration for me and my son's sake. I hope it works well. At this time I have no plans to plumb it in; I don't know if this would be a powerful enough collector for that. It's on wheels and portable so I was thinking of getting some of the Rockler quick fittings to make hooking it up to the tools quicker and easier. Anyways, I feel good about this one. Thanks for looking.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Hey, good for you and congrats on the new dust collector. Working with wood, as a hobby or as a career, can cause some serious health problems and you are now one step closer to avoiding those problems. Not to mention that it will cut down on the dust in your shop. With all that being said, I would worry about Mrs ACP suggesting that you go out and get it..............I think that in the end, it's gonna cost you a lot more than the orignal cost of $140 for the collector...:blink: :laughing:
Ken


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Looks great! Expect some questions from me on building that cyclone seperator...there's definitely one in my future.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Great job on the dust collector and the Thien cyclon separator. I know my next purchase is the Wynn cartridge filter. Let us know how you like the Wynn filter. Which style Wynn filter did you buy?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I got the 35A, 80/20 blend. I figured with the separator I could go with the paper blend and not worry so much about wood chips damaging the filter. Thanks everyone!


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## adinfinite (Aug 14, 2010)

Thats excellent work ACP, it really looks good. I think you just gave me an idea for my next weekend project. I hope it turns out as well as yours did.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I received the Wynn 35A cartridge filter for the new collector Thursday. It was a snap to put on. I can't tell if the suction has improved, but the filter should provide much better filtration than the 5 micron bag. :thumbsup:


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## mike65072 (Apr 13, 2008)

Nice setup! I've heard nothing but good things about the HF DC. I have a Thein/Wynn setup on my older Delta DC and it works well. The filter does clog up a little quicker than I expected, but overall much better than the old twin bag system.


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## Daniel13655 (Aug 30, 2010)

*Thein Collector?*

OK, what can you tell me about the Thein Collector? I am WAY behind the power curve on dust collection and need to get serious. I like your set up and it looks like it would fit my situation, so I gotta check it all out. Thanks!


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Along those lines, ACP, do you think you could just start a new thread based on the Thein collector? I know there are other resources out there on how to build it, so maybe you could list the sources you used (other than this, and any other lessons you learned about making one.

I'm probably a couple weeks out from looking to make one myself...so I'd have been posting the same thing daniel did about then.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

*REPLY: *Well guys I wish I could tell you that I was some expert on these Thien separators too, but I am not. I just Googled it and read the numerous posts on various sites and of course Thien's own webpage. In the end, none of the sites really helped me except Thien's own.

*WHAT IS A THIEN PRE-SEPARATOR: *To answer your question Daniel, it is a cyclone pre-separator. The hose from the machine enters the port on the lid that is close to the side of the container. The hose that connects to the center port runs to the machine where you would normally connect the collection hose. This creates a continuous suction, but instead of being linear, i.e. machine to collector, it becomes non-linear. The air flow continues with some increase in static resistance, but it isn't too much. When connected it sucks the chips and dust from the machine into the port on the side of the separator. The shape of this port creates a cyclonic action with the air flow inside the pre-separator where gap is between the baffle and the lid. The heavier chips and dust fall through the 240 deg cutout between the baffle and the sidewall and the finer dust is sucked into the collector and filtered. The baffle is the key to Thien's design. It keeps the stuff in the bottom of the can from being sucked into the machine. It works very well. I filled my can today planing and jointing some wood and the only time it made it to the collector bag is when I filled up into the baffle. The pros of this are you don't have to change the collection bad as much, you protect the impeller from large chips that could damage it and most importantly if you have a cansiter filter, you keep the big stuff from hitting it and possibly damaging it. The only con is the slight decrease in performance. That being said, I don't notice the difference. 

*THE BUILD: *As far as construction goes, all I did was go to Menards and look for a metal trash can. They were flimsy as can be and they had this heavy duty plastic one clearanced out for $10 but it was missing the lid. That's fine because I was going to make the separator lid anyways. I know people have said the plastic ones aren't ridgid enough to withstand the pressure (negative pressure?) without collapsing. I have had no such issue. The plastic is very thick and it doesn't want to buckle at all. That's with my system, more powerful ones may be different. 

*BUILD cont: *I had the MDF I needed at home so I got some 4" DC hose (10'), a jointer DC port (8 by 8 I think), that's the square plastic one in the center of the lid. I got a 90 deg. DC elbow (black) and a bathroom toilet flange for connecting the 90 deg. elbow to the lid and a 90 deg 4" pvc sewer and drain elbow for the internal port. I also used 1" dowels for the separation between the bafffle and lid. The other supplies are some 3/4" screws, PL 400 adhesive, four 360 degree casters and some 1/4" bolts and nuts. 
I measured the diameter of the can at the top and divided by 2 to get the radius. I then made an jury rigged circle cutter for my trim router. I just used a straight 1/4 piece of hardboard I had lying around and drilled a hole for the plate screws and a hole for the router bit. I connected the router to the hardboard with a spiral bit. I measured from the bit (inside point) down the board to the measurement of the radius. I them used a trim nail and connected it to the 3/4" MDF I used for the lid. I then cut out the circle. The fit was perfect on my first cut. It must be tight. I then used some 5/16" thick MDF stuff that I had lying around. It's a strange thickness because I get it from a flooring co. in town that uses it as packing material. Anyways, it is thicker than 1/4" and I added an inch to the radius and cut out a circle of it. I then centered the nail holes of the two and glued and screwed them together. I then set the 90 deg. internal elbow on the underside of the lid and measured how deep it would extend. 6 1/2 " I think it was. I then measured 6 1/2" down, and then got a diameter for that location from the can. Same process with the 3/4 MDF and circle cutter gave me the initial baffle. I then used and angle finder and marked out the 240 deg cutout. I measured the radius from the center nail hole to the cutout line and set up the circle cutting jig and cut it out on the arc and then used a handsaw to finish the cuts on the ends. This gave me the baffle. I connected it to the lid with the 1" dowels with screws. I drilled a 1/4 hole where the center nail holes were and used a 1/4" dowel to align the top and baffle and connected them. I then used a cirlce cutter to drill out the 4" holes for the intake and exhaust ports. I then connected the jointer hood to the top with PL400 and 3/4" screws. I connected the toilet flange to the lid with PL400 and screws too. The two 90 elbows were then put in place and PL400'd. I then let it dry and that was it. I put it on a small roller base which was just 3/4 plywood with the casters under it and connected it to the main DC base with a piece of wood and the 1/4" bolts and nuts. 

*LESSONS LEARNED: *Make sure all your fitting connect nicely at the store. I took the black DC fittings and the DC hose to the PVC pipe isle and kind of assembled it all there to make sure they all fit together tightly. Also use 360 deg. casters so you can push the tool anywhere you want in any way you want. I used PL400 for its strength, but I think there are many substitutes out there. Make sure you have enough hose clamps for the system. You need five total. 

I know this was lengthy but I hope it helped. If you have specific questions please ask or PM me. :icon_smile:
-Adam


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Awesome Adam, thanks. That's exactly it.

I hope I don't lose *too* much suction, I've only got a 1hp DC, not the fancy 2Hp most of you have. I guess we'll see how it does!


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## Daniel13655 (Aug 30, 2010)

Yeah, Adam, thanks for a well-written instruction. The only thing I missed was the diameter or radius of the baffle cut out. I understand how to get the diameter of the initial baffle, but how much do I cut away for 240 degrees? It's probably obvious and I'm just silly enough to miss it. Great job!


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Daniel, sorry about that, the internal baffle diameter is 2 1/4" less than its outer diameter. 

Rob, I don't think you will lose too much. This same concept is applied to shop vacs and used succesfully so I am guessing your DC will pull just fine. What kind do you have? One thing that the Wynn website talks about is how a cartridge filter, while provided better filtration, also increases the amount of surface space for filtration to occur thereby reducing resistance. http://www.wynnenv.com/35A_series_cartridge_kit.htm The second paragraph talks on this briefly. (I don't work for Wynn). Anyways, lets see some pics when you guys get them up and running!


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

ACP said:


> What kind do you have?


I got a Jet DC-650 off of craigslist for $50. Seems to work great, though the bag up top does let off a fine mist of powder when it starts up. However, I'm building a closet to put it in, mainly for noise abatement, but hopefully it will also confine some of the bag leakage. Im not planning on replacing the bags with better stuff, due to 1) building the thein thing, 2) it being in a closet, and 3) building a shop air filtration unit soon.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Cool! I would say that you may increase suction with a cartridge, though I don't know if there is one for that particular collector. I bet there is. An air filtration unit is a good thing. I need to get one too. If you get it built please show it off. I am looking for ideas for them. Glad I could be of assistance. 

Adam


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Hehe...well, nothing I make is worth showing off, but I'll be happy to show and tell.  The motor and squirrel cage arrive this friday, "free" from the HVAC people who are putting in our $15k geothermal system....isn't that nice of them?? But heck I'll take it.

I didn't know adding a cartridge could increase suction...now I'm interested in them.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

"I haven't had a chance to really work the machine yet so I can't comment on it's performance."



Looking forward to those comments, ACP.
SteveEl


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

We interupt this topic to comment on the signature found herein:



> Woodworking is the only place where it's ok to be excited about a crotch that is rotting and full of bugs.


That is freaking hilarious!!!


:laughing::laughing::laughing:

Back to the regularly scheduled program...


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Heh...ya, it took me a while to learn the lingo...now I just have to be careful who I speak it in front of.


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

You don't need a grounding wire. Urban legend.

I've never seen this design, I'm still back in the stone age, with that plastic can lid you get from Rocklers.

I'm quite interested, I've been looking for a way to make something like a cyclone in front of my dust collector. I've even considered turning a cyclone out of a log! (Every time I think about it, I come up with the same answer: why not?)


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

15 years ago in Indiana I had a friend with a pro shop. He specialize in custom violin cases. His shop was set up with a 3HP DC plumbed with PVC. He had a fire that he claimed started with static electricity in his ductwork. When he rebuilt, He put sheet metal screws every 3 feet and tied wire from one to another and grounded. No more problems. Urban legend or not... I only know what he said.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Wow, I can see that happening, but I would think it would be rare. Sounds like a good solution, though. If nothing else, it gets uncomfortable, during clean up, I'm constantly getting zapped when I brush up against a tool, while picking up dust.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

burkhome said:


> Urban legend or not... I only know what he said.


Try this thought experiment: imagine it is one of those days when you build up a lot of static on your body -- here in the north-east US it's typically mid-winter, when the humidity is very low.

Shuffle around on a carpet for a while building up a good charge.

Walk over to the door and place your hand flat on the wood surface.

Any sparks? No.

Now reach for the metal door handle ... zap!

Quite simply, you don't get sparks from an electrical insulator. Period.

In order to create and sustain a spark, you need mobile electrons, and insulators (such as PVC pipe) don't let electrons move from one place to another freely.

Metal ductwork, on the other hand, is dangerous unless it is properly grounded.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I'm going to be putting in duct work out of PVC (cause it's cheap and I can work with it easy), and I definitely want to ground it because it gets awful dry in the winter and I *hate* getting shocked.

Instead of screws and wire, I've been wondering about just winding that metal duct tape around the pipe, and then grounding it on an end. Wouldn't that work as well?


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Here is a link that has formulas for setting up ductwork. I have never added a link so I hope it works. Link has a lot of very good information. Be patient with the delivery.http://http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_A...Collection.htm


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Trying the link again.http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_A...Collection.htm


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

One more time... Sorry about my computer incompetency.http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS109/SS109_Dust_Collection.htm


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Link worked for me. I'll be watching that tonight I think.


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

I'm pretty sure the Mythbusters debunked the whole static electricity causing a fire in DC systems. 

Anyway -

RE: Rockler quick connect stuff. I haven't been around much lately, so I don't know if my comments are redundant or not.
In any case...

I have these fittings on all my tools, along with the long hose and the handle thingy at the end. 
For a small shop, this is a great solution. I know hard core DC specialists will persuade against using the flexible tubing, but in small hobby shops it works just fine. 
my DC is on rollers as well, but with everything else in the shop, it is way easier to just move the hose from one device to another over moving the DC around from one device to another.

Overall very impressed with the whole system Rocker put together and I would recommend it to anyone that can't do the full blown ducting solution (for whatever reason)

for my router table, I got the splitter thingy that puts a 4" hole under the table, and a 2.5" hose goes up to the fence. I then took a piece of flexible tubing from there, wrapped it around to the front of the cabinet, and put one of the quick connects on the end. This allows me to easily connect the main line to the table without having to reach behind awkwardly... works great.

Did something similar to feed 2.5" lines to my chop saw and oscillating spindle sander. Their lines go into a splitter where the 4" connects, then I have a 4" that extends out from under the cabinet where the quick connect is attached. I don't have blast gates on this solution, but will. for now I just disconnect whichever one I'm not using and stuff a rag in.
This solution works OK. If I'm doing any sanding I'll run the main line over, or if I'm chopping more than one or two pieces of wood. It isn't worth the effort to move the main line around for only one cut. I find the chop saw is one of those things I go over to a lot while working with the big tools, and it is just too much moving of the main line to make it worth it.


my .02


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

duncsuss said:


> Metal ductwork, on the other hand, is dangerous unless it is properly grounded.


More urban legend.

There is not one single documented explosion or fire that was traced back to a static electrical spark. Not one.

Everyone knows a guy who has a brother whose friend heard a story, but when it comes to documentation, the number is zero.

I only pay attention to statistics when the statistic in question is either zero or one hundred percent.

Now, before all of you go off and start wailing and gnashing your teeth about this issue, and before you tell me what your friend thinks caused his fire, stop and collect your documentation.

I ask you to present a citation to your documentation for one simple reason: you can't.

No one ever has. It isn't there.

I have ABS piping, a metal garbage can collector, and a JET dust collector, all ungrounded. And somehow, I sleep like a log.

If you guys want urban legends, I have many, many of them. I spent 30 years in construction, and I can keep you up all night, every night, if you dare work with wood. So let me know.

You guys try to have a good day, but be careful, risk, both real and imaginary, is everywhere.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

I don't know beans about dust control, and I'm not a lawyer, but I have been around a lot of lawyers, so I can think of one reason to include an internal bare wire the length of a PVC duct, with jumpers at plastic blast gates or other non metal connectors .... and that reason is..... if there is a fire of uncertain origin in your shop, if that inexpensive wire is in the pipe, you will save a ton of money in attorneys fees by denying the other side that chance to carp about the lack of such a wire, needed or not.

I hate lawyers, but thinking like the other guy's jerk of an attorney has served me well in staying out of trouble.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Jammer Six said:


> More urban legend.
> 
> There is not one single documented explosion or fire that was traced back to a static electrical spark. Not one.
> 
> ...


Spoken like a skeptical Manchu!


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *duncsuss*
> _Metal ductwork, on the other hand, is dangerous unless it is properly grounded._
> 
> More urban legend.


Respectfully, I disagree -- but I'm not saying that un-grounded metal ductwork poses a fire hazard.

In a workshop where power cords may come into contact with sharp tools, grounding metal ductwork reduces the risk of electric shocks.


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

duncsuss said:


> In a workshop where power cords may come into contact with sharp tools, grounding metal ductwork reduces the risk of electric shocks.


Returning the respect, I would suggest that any cord that poses any kind of accidental threat needs to go away. None of the cords in my shop would create any type of threat no matter how you brought them into contact with any ducting. Modern cords are safe even if you drive a skill saw through them.

Poorly maintained cords used to be a major cause of accidents in construction (read Back In The Day, when Jammer was an apprentice, in the late 70s) and it got so bad that it became a Work Rules issue with the Carpenter's union. In response to that pressure, the market created so many types of safe, cheap cords that it's been decades since I've seen a cord that even came close to being a hazard.

If you can take a skill saw, a chop saw, or any other type of saw, and drive it through a modern cord, and create a hazard, I take my hat off to you. :blink:

In fact, I'll pay a dollar to anyone reading this who can create a fire or explosion with static electricity and a dust collection system in normal operation, or a cord and a dust collection system in normal operation.

Post your pictures here; I'll even go so far as to take your word for it, no citation required.

I'm sitting here with a fistful of dollar bills, and I'm waiting.

And to *REALLY* sweeten the pot, I'll do the one thing no self-respecting denizen of the internet *EVER* does: I'll admit I'm wrong.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

If you are in the mood to read, here is a link with much information on dust collection systems. This fellow doesn't think much of the industry.http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/ducting.cfm#DuctingIntroduction


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Jammer Six said:


> You don't need a grounding wire. Urban legend.
> 
> I've never seen this design, I'm still back in the stone age, with that plastic can lid you get from Rocklers.
> 
> I'm quite interested, I've been looking for a way to make something like a cyclone in front of my dust collector. I've even considered turning a cyclone out of a log! (Every time I think about it, I come up with the same answer: why not?)


 I've spent the last week researching dustcollection. The scientific research that has been done definitely supports your claim. I humbly defer to your wisdom.http://home.comcast.net/~rodec/woodworking/articles/DC_myths.html


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Static Shock*

I changed out the lower plastic bags on my Jet DC and replaced them with fiber drums. The first thing I noticed was I would get a static shock that snapped me to full attention when I got too close to the unit. Not only was this annoying, but painful. I solved the problem by a copper wire from the motor, ( runing parallel with the power cord in the photo) housing to the separator in between the filter and drum. This was because the 6" connector hose did not make an "electrical" connection between the 2 units. Problem solved. I don't worry about static in the flexible attachment hoses.  bill


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

*Off topic*

Check your notification, Jammer six, I'm very curious about your insignia, because you're the first person, in eighteen years, that would know what I was talking about. I walked, maybe 1500 miles wearing that belt buckle.


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

fromthehills said:


> Check your notification, Jammer six, I'm very curious about your insignia, because you're the first person, in eighteen years, that would know what I was talking about. I walked, maybe 1500 miles wearing that belt buckle.


It says "you don't have sufficient privileges to access that page", so I guess I can't look at my own mail, sorry.

I never got the belt buckle. I was in the 2nd, at Monsonee, and there was some accomplishment associated with the belt buckle involving the Northerns, and I made it my business to stay as far away from them as possible. Seems to me there was a school involved, too, but it was 1975, and my memory is hazy.


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

fromthehills said:


> Check your notification, Jammer six, I'm very curious about your insignia, because you're the first person, in eighteen years, that would know what I was talking about. I walked, maybe 1500 miles wearing that belt buckle.


It says "you don't have sufficient privileges to access that page", so I guess I can't look at my own mail, sorry.

I never got the belt buckle. I was in the 2nd, at Moonsonee, and there was some accomplishment associated with the belt buckle involving the Northerns, and I made it my business to stay as far away from them as possible. Seems to me there was a school involved, too, but it was 1975, and my memory is hazy.  That insignia came off my ball cap.

"I'm a Green Beret"

"Well, I guess that makes me a baseball cap..."


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

ACP said:


> So my wife says to me the other day, why don't you go buy that Harbor Freight dust collector you've been wanting.  Umm....OK! I used the coupon and got it for $140. I then made a Thien separator for it from the online information. Most of the dust in the bag is pre-separator stuff, just fooling around stuff when I got it together. Thank you mister Thien for the work on the separator you did. It seems to work very well. I am just learing about dust collection. I know I should put a grounding wire in the plastic separator and that is high on my to do list. I haven't had a chance to really work the machine yet so I can't comment on it's performance. I don't think it is too loud. Everything went together very easily and looks good. I have a Wynn cartridge filter on the way to really improve filtration for me and my son's sake. I hope it works well. At this time I have no plans to plumb it in; I don't know if this would be a powerful enough collector for that. It's on wheels and portable so I was thinking of getting some of the Rockler quick fittings to make hooking it up to the tools quicker and easier. Anyways, I feel good about this one. Thanks for looking.


ACP, how do you like your collector? Does it do a good job? What is cfm? Man I'm full of questions today, among other things. 

I sold my two collectors a few years ago and boy that was a mistake. I didn't have room in the shop I have now for even one of them but now I have figured a way to have one now. I have been deleting all of the coupons from HF but you can bet I won't now. I like your setup.

Jammer take a look at this link http://www.farrapc.com/comply/?gclid=CKbzko6-kaQCFY5a7AodrCHlHw

Why would OSHA be concerned if dust wasn't a threat?


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

I can't recall ever reading anything significantly negative about the HF DC.

RE: the OSHA reference. Did you watch that whole video? I only got into it about 20 minutes. 
I think you have to consider what OSHA is concerned about is in industrial settings. The volume/concentration of the dust in these environments is far far greater than anything you will find in a smaller shop environment (small meaning non industrial manufacturing environment). They also involve ignition sources other than static electricity. Obviously if you have a high concentration of dust in an enclosed area, and light a match, you will be in for an unpleasant surprised.
I'm sure it is safe to say a large furniture manufacturing plan needs to be concerned about dust control because the sheer volume of dust created in a day or two is probably more than we will create in a lifetime.

At the end of the day, I suppose each person needs to decide for themselves what is proper safety and what isn't. I think there is enough non evidence out there regarding static electricity and dust collectors is strong enough that I'm not worried about it. If someone feels better about a grounding wire, than by all means they should go ahead and do what they think needs to be done.
I'd be more concerned about best practices while disposing of the dust in the collector bags.. like having a cigarette in your mouth, or something like that.
I made the mistake of emptying a shop vac over an open flame once (a burn pile I had going), and that was very nearly a painful mistake. I realized as I was doing it that I had made a mistake and jumped back quick enough.

I don't think there is any debate whatsoever regarding the combustibility of dust. The "urban legend" or "myth", or whatever you want to call it, is specific to static build up in PVC pipe used in dust collection systems.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Jim, I love the collector. It works really well in my applications. I haven't and probably won't be piping it so the CFM is plenty strong for me. It says 1550 CFM somewhere, and the look alike at Grizzly says the same I believe. Does it get that, especially with the separator? I have no way of knowing. It handles my planer and jointer just fine, even close to my planers full width. Would it with ducting? I wish I could tell you. I may someday hook it up on a short run so I have semi-permanent placement, but that'll be down the road. I would recommend it based on what I've seen so far, but I haven't really had it long enough to make a full review on wear and tear ref. longetivity. However, every other review for the most part says only the switches give problems in the long term. I have'nt experienced that yet. I say go for it!


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

ACP said:


> Jim, I love the collector. It works really well in my applications. I haven't and probably won't be piping it so the CFM is plenty strong for me. It says 1550 CFM somewhere, and the look alike at Grizzly says the same I believe. Does it get that, especially with the separator? I have no way of knowing. It handles my planer and jointer just fine, even close to my planers full width. Would it with ducting? I wish I could tell you. I may someday hook it up on a short run so I have semi-permanent placement, but that'll be down the road. I would recommend it based on what I've seen so far, but I haven't really had it long enough to make a full review on wear and tear ref. longetivity. However, every other review for the most part says only the switches give problems in the long term. I have'nt experienced that yet. I say go for it!


Thanks buddy, I really do appreciate that information. I will be looking into buying one of those.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Me too! Since I have a basement shop, when it's not in use, I'm thinking of parking the unit under the kitchen, and hooked up to a floor sweep cut into one of the cabinets under the toe kick Thanks ACP (and Bill, too) SteveEl


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

I am trying to hook up dust collection to a 1951 Delta Unisaw. I am puting a hood over the saw blade but the cabinet is where I am lost. I figured I would run a 4" duct to the cabinet but....being from 1951 there is no facility for this. I can cut a hole and mount a take off but there is a mile wide hole where the motor peeks out from the side of the cabinet. There are a number of slots and holes....in a nutshell the cabinet is ventilated so much I don't think I am going to suck much out of there. Any ideas?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

burkhome said:


> I am trying to hook up dust collection to a 1951 Delta Unisaw. I am puting a hood over the saw blade but the cabinet is where I am lost. I figured I would run a 4" duct to the cabinet but....being from 1951 there is no facility for this. I can cut a hole and mount a take off but there is a mile wide hole where the motor peeks out from the side of the cabinet. There are a number of slots and holes....in a nutshell the cabinet is ventilated so much I don't think I am going to suck much out of there. Any ideas?


My Unisaw has the opening at the motor also. When I did have my dust collectors I made a box that would extend out past the motor that covered the hole the motor was sticking out of. I drilled several holes in the end of the box so the motor would still draw outside air in and keep it cool, my pipe was hooked to the bottom of the box.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

jiju1943 said:


> My Unisaw has the opening at the motor also. When I did have my dust collectors I made a box that would extend out past the motor that covered the hole the motor was sticking out of. I drilled several holes in the end of the box so the motor would still draw outside air in and keep it cool, my pipe was hooked to the bottom of the box.


 Did this work well? With the amount of sawdust I get in my cabinet it will have to be fairly efficient. I have never had a hood on my saw...the guard is brand new in a box under my bench... so I don't know how that will affect the amount of dust going into the cabinet. Your solution sounds logical and pretty painless to do. I think I'll give it a go. Thanks


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

burkhome said:


> Did this work well? With the amount of sawdust I get in my cabinet it will have to be fairly efficient. I have never had a hood on my saw...the guard is brand new in a box under my bench... so I don't know how that will affect the amount of dust going into the cabinet. Your solution sounds logical and pretty painless to do. I think I'll give it a go. Thanks


We were doing much much ripping with the saw and would have had to clean it out no less than every or every other day at least without the box. When we would take the box off every week or two it would have dust around the parameter but it never filled up unless thin strips fell down inside and hung in the hose. It did do a good job.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

jiju1943 said:


> We were doing much much ripping with the saw and would have had to clean it out no less than every or every other day at least without the box. When we would take the box off every week or two it would have dust around the parameter but it never filled up unless thin strips fell down inside and hung in the hose. It did do a good job.


 Thanks Jim:
I guess will start the refinance on my house so I can afford the pipe for plumbing my dust collector. Who knew that the collector was the cheap part of the project. Still, if it reduces dust in the house, the wife will be happy.


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

*Yup!*

Generally speaking, I need to get an appropriations bill through the Congress of the Kitchen Table to buy big-ticket machines, and Big Trouble is sure to follow if I spend, say, $300 without such authorization.

But ever since my lovely wife saw the difference between dust collection and no dust collection, I've had a (fairly) free hand to spend what I want on dust collection equipment. She says that dust collection is the only class of big dollar equipment that we both get to use, and she encourages me to keep it running well.

I have a system that includes the Penn State automatic blast gates, because, to quote her "...he's too stupid to walk across the shop and turn the damn thing on."


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## CTwoodworker (Jul 27, 2010)

I just bought this same dust collector and have a few questions. I have this DC hooked up to my planer molder. Although I don't have any trouble at all when I'm producing finer dust, when I'm taking a heavy cut, and when there are large shavings, I find that it clogs rather easily. The larger shavings get caught on the guard in front of the propeller. The machine will get so clogged that it will cease to function. It becomes clogged every 5 minutes, so I would lilke to find a solution to this problem. Do you think that a seperator like the one you built fix this problem? I mean, if the large shavings fall to the bottom of the can, and only the little stuff goes into the bag there should be no problem. From your experience, do you think that this would solve my problem?

Any ideas or suggestions?

thanks,
Luke


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

You sound like a prime candidate for the separator (cyclone or otherwise), as that's exactly what it's for....separate out the heavier/larger stuff before it "hits the fan", so to speak.


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

If you're talking about the guard on the planer, no.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

CTwoodworker said:


> I just bought this same dust collector and have a few questions. I have this DC hooked up to my planer molder. Although I don't have any trouble at all when I'm producing finer dust, when I'm taking a heavy cut, and when there are large shavings, I find that it clogs rather easily. The larger shavings get caught on the guard in front of the propeller. The machine will get so clogged that it will cease to function. It becomes clogged every 5 minutes, so I would lilke to find a solution to this problem. Do you think that a seperator like the one you built fix this problem? I mean, if the large shavings fall to the bottom of the can, and only the little stuff goes into the bag there should be no problem. From your experience, do you think that this would solve my problem?
> Any ideas or suggestions?
> thanks, Luke


I had the same problem, and I removed mine, it was a thin sheet metal "X" in front of the impeller. Just lock up the cat and keep the squirrels out of the shop. :laughing: bill


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## CTwoodworker (Jul 27, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> I had the same problem, and I removed mine, it was a thin sheet metal "X" in front of the impeller. Just lock up the cat and keep the squirrels out of the shop. :laughing: bill


I thought about that -- wasn't sure if it was a good idea, but if you've done it and have had no problems, I think I'll try it.

Haha, yeah :no: no cats or squirrels in the shop. :laughing:


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## CTwoodworker (Jul 27, 2010)

Jammer Six said:


> If you're talking about the guard on the planer, no.


I was talking about the fan on the dust collector. Sorry I wasnt clear.


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