# Picture Frame Jointing... What's YOUR Method?



## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

Getting closer to ordering a big ol' stack of picture frame molding to make some custom frames and it struck me how many ways there are to join the things together. I'm leaning towards plugging the corners, but for fun thought I might ask everybody elses' method.

What is (or would be) your preferred method of joinery for picture frame corners?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I've always used plain miters, apply the glue, let soak in, re-apply then clamp.

Never a problem.

If I was worried about stresses, I would use a spline. :smile:


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## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

Not particularly worried about stresses... though military movers aren't known to be real gentle with customers' items, so it wouldn't hurt to be a little beefier.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

I use mitered half lap joints. No reason other than I like to make them.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I generally use a biscuit but the next ones I make I want to try the mitered half lap. Looks like fun and would be a tuff joint too.
BTW - Anybody know how to apply a lock miter joint to a picture frame. The option was in the poll but can't see how it's done unless a shadow box type frame??:blink:


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## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

Miter the corner then use a lock miter router bit...?


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## SeanStuart (Nov 27, 2011)

I like the look of butted joint on a picture frame better than mitered. 
I did not make this frame just an example.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I wonder why the method used in most professional frame shops isn't included in the choices?


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## Upstate (Nov 28, 2011)

Wrangler said:


> I use mitered half lap joints. No reason other than I like to make them.


+1 it'll never fall apart on you either, and it looks best imo


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Hammer1 said:


> I wonder why the method used in most professional frame shops isn't included in the choices?


?? what would that be??


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## PPBART (Oct 7, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> I've always used plain miters, apply the glue, let soak in, re-apply then clamp...


+1... unless it's a really large or heavy frame, then something stronger.


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## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

Hammer1 said:


> I wonder why the method used in most professional frame shops isn't included in the choices?


I'm going to guess corrugated nailer.

I didn't include that option because a good corrugated nailer seems to be in the neighborhood of $500. Didn't think anybody here would have one, but I could be wrong.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I don't use mouldings at all. I cut them from stock, cut the rabbet for the glass, router the profiles the way I want and cut the frame. From there, I glue up the frame using wood glue only. Then, once that is done, I like to add contrasting wood splines and glue them in place.


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## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

I was thinking about making my own as well. MLCS seems to have some very nice moulding profile bits. But I can't seem to figure out a way to get the really bold mahogany colors or blackening around the edges that I'd want and a premade molding provides. Like the mahogany in this picture:










If you guys know how to reproduce that color... I'll make my own with pride.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

Kenbo said:


> I don't use mouldings at all. I cut them from stock, cut the rabbet for the glass, router the profiles the way I want and cut the frame. From there, I glue up the frame using wood glue only. Then, once that is done, I like to add contrasting wood splines and glue them in place.


I've never bought mouldings. I like the creativity of making my own.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Thadius856 said:


> I was thinking about making my own as well. MLCS seems to have some very nice moulding profile bits. But I can't seem to figure out a way to get the really bold mahogany colors or blackening around the edges that I'd want and a premade molding provides. Like the mahogany in this picture:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those look like build ups to me. Center being a 1" piece and the inside and outside being 1/4" each. Machined and likely finished seperately and then assembled. 
The pic Sean posted earlier is similar. The inside portion of the frame is butt joined but the outer trim is mitered.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

What? Nobody has a professionally done frame they can look on the back of? If would only take a second to search it up. It doesn't require any expensive equipment and no, it's not corrugated fasteners. It's been in use for a long time.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Most of 'em in my house are obviously professionally done as they are using pin nails, staples or v-nails. Since this is probably the least labor intensive method, I assume they are done by someone earning his living at it.:blink:


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Wrangler said:


> I've never bought mouldings. I like the creativity of making my own.





Kenbo said:


> I don't use mouldings at all. I cut them from stock, cut the rabbet for the glass, router the profiles the way I want and cut the frame. From there, I glue up the frame using wood glue only. Then, once that is done, I like to add contrasting wood splines and glue them in place.


+1 +1

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/quick-easy-picture-frame-assembly-27827/


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Thadius856 said:


> I'm going to guess corrugated nailer.
> 
> I didn't include that option because a good corrugated nailer seems to be in the neighborhood of $500. Didn't think anybody here would have one, but I could be wrong.


I have a Duo-Fast corrugated fastener I bought in the 70's for $350. It's a fastener that brings two butt joints together. But for picture framing isn't used because the fastener is designed to pull the pieces tighter as it enters the wood. It works best when applied from both sides to pull evenly. In a picture frame it would allow the face to separate.

I used it for joining plywood and composite countertops, and for fixing joints of solid wood for upholstered furniture like Parsons type chairs. The fastener works good in woods like Poplar for the internal framing of furniture that gets covered with foam and upholstery.

I used to run picture frame mouldings on my Woodmaster and sell finished lengths to framing shops. They would cut the moulding to length, miter them, use glue and pinch dogs and secure with a wide crown staple.










 







.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

Thadius856 said:


> Getting closer to ordering a big ol' stack of picture frame molding to make some custom frames and it struck me how many ways there are to join the things together. I'm leaning towards plugging the corners, but for fun thought I might ask everybody elses' method.
> 
> What is (or would be) your preferred method of joinery for picture frame corners?


what size make's a difference. you can get by with different way with small frame's but with big like 24x24 a different way is needed. so what size may get you a different way. You can 45 degree the end's glue and pin or spline Of course these are finished ?? I would 45 degree the ends and than pin and put matching filler in the pin holes. That's the way a fram shop does them or at least the one i was in did them


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## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

Picked up about 4bf of Padauk today. Boy is this stuff beautiful. And it costs less than the cheapie basswood moldings I showed earlier.

Still trying to figure out a good profile at 1.5" wide using 4/4 and less-than-top-dollar molding bits. Ideally I'd like a bit that replicated the above profile closely, but we'll see what I come up with.

Would it be heresy to try to finish the edges a little darker to add depth? I have no idea how to do this, but I like that feature in the molding above.

Lastly, I had planned on a basic rabbit, but for some reason, I keep seeing lots of stepped rabbit bits for sale. Why would I want one of these?

Edit: Just look at this stuff!


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## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

del schisler said:


> what size make's a difference. you can get by with different way with small frame's but with big like 24x24 a different way is needed. so what size may get you a different way. You can 45 degree the end's glue and pin or spline Of course these are finished ?? I would 45 degree the ends and than pin and put matching filler in the pin holes. That's the way a fram shop does them or at least the one i was in did them


Good point! I had planned on using 1-1/2" wide by 3/4" thick molding mostly for 11x14 frames (matted to 8x10 or 8-1/2x11), but maybe as large as 12x24. Anything larger I'd consider a frame of no less than 2-1/2" wide, up until around the 24x36 size, when I'd start thinking even larger (or frameless on canvas).

But that's just me. I agree that patching a pin nailer (23ga?) hole would be pretty easy, unless the molding was extremely brittle and shattered out like crazy, or the frame was neon colors (*barf*).


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## FD_Cox (Mar 6, 2012)

Always use splines on mine.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

FYI,

The new Woodcraft flyer shows these clamps at a pretty good price (good thru 4/27).

The are or look identical to the Lee Valley clamps but consider that Lee Valley has free shipping right now.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Sorry, forgot photo

Also: 

http://m.woodcraft.com/product/2003086/433/picture-frame-miter-clamp.aspx


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## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

Ended up going with yellow glue (Elmer's Probond) and one each of two different band clamps (Wolfcraft 15ft Racheting 3681404 & Bessey 23ft Screwdown VAS23).

That's a pretty decent price on those clamps you linked to, if they work well.


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## sawdust55109 (Mar 18, 2012)

I use standard miters made by using a dedicated 45 degree miter sled on the table saw. For some larger frames i also ass v-nails in the corners.


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## sawdust55109 (Mar 18, 2012)

sawdust55109 said:


> I use standard miters made by using a dedicated 45 degree miter sled on the table saw. For some larger frames i also use v-nails in the corners


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