# Routing dadoes in shelves on a router table



## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

i'm a complete noob to all of this so have some mercy on a guy!

So i had a dilemma, i didn't feel entirely comfortable routing boards and edges without having a fence, so i built a router table a few weeks ago to solve that problem. 

then i had a to build a book case and figured could route dadoes in to the sides of the carcass to offer better strength for the shelves instead of just butting it up and nailing it in.

problem was my router table fence didn't offer enough clearance to make the dadoes happen. and again, still not feeling comfortable enough to do it by hand against a straight edge so here's my solution.

i just clamp down the slides on the side of the table against the table spron and the fence is solid.

let me know what you guys think any suggestions are greatly appreciated.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

HI- Who am I to argue with success:smile:. Biggest problem with doing dados like that on large panels is managing them and it looks like you resolved that pretty well. I would still prefer to do something like manually but that is more of a degree of confidence thing for the individual.
I don't care for the jigs that reference the base plate of the router for a couple of reasons (same with using a straight edge). First, it is kind of a crap shoot as to whether the bit is centered on the router base plate, especially with routers that require a bushing adapter. If it isn't centered, you need to maintain the orientation of the router to the base plate or the groove comes out wavy. Secondly, if you do build a jig like that, your jig, router and bit are married. That is, the jig must be used with the same router and bit diameter to achieve good results. Many of us have several routers and Murphy dictates that whenever that jig is needed, the required router will be unavailable or set up for another job. Here's a jig that resolves both issues.
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/exact-width-dado-jig/
:smile:


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## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

thanks john, i just found marc spagnuolo on youtube not too long ago. i saw his coving technic on the Table saw and was just in awe. didn't know you could do that, but then again i just started making dust recently so i' trying to learn as much as i can


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## Dodis (Feb 25, 2013)

srestrepo,

Looks like jschaben beat me to it, but I use a similar jig I built, but references off the base plate rather than a bushing (I will eventually build a long bushing version too). If you make it long enough, you could put both cabinet sides side-by-side and then you will get both dados exactly in line with each other too. Plus the fact that you can adjust it to exactly match the thickness of the stock you are using, like the sub-3/4" 3/4" plywood we get nowdays...

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/routing/exact-width-dado-jig/


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## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

i like the jig, and i definitely considered it. i just like the hands off the router approach and prefer the hands on the stock. and i didn't necessarily like the whole thing that the router bit, router and jig are all married. i understand why that is and everything like that but i only have on router and i, being a novice, didn't want to dismantle what took me so long to build.

figured i'd share my build and ask for honest feedback as well as any suggestions or improvement on current design.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I made a jig similar to Mark's exact width dado jig with one exception. I made mine so I can use a 1/2 flush trim bit, make several passes and voila, I have a perfect dado.

I just finished building a child's book case and the dadoes turned out nice and snug to the shelves. The shelves are less that 3/4 inch thick because I had ripped the pieces, glued up a panel, then planed it smooth. No problem with an unusual size thickness with Mark's dado jig.

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

I am just about done with a TV stand. Dado's had to be 18 inches long. I had to do 14 of them and they had to match to each side. I thought about the router option but instead found out it was easier to do on a sled on my TS. I didn't use a dado set since my sled is for on kerf (3/32"). I used a kerf maker I made and the dado's came out perfect.

But your idea looks good if it works for you.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Once you do a dado with a guide, you won't want to do that on a table. Panels can get hard to handle. You are working face down, and can't see what's going on. Your subject piece can get marred by running it face down. I have the same complaints about using a stack dado on the TS.

You can make a simple dado jig *like this*. It basically is a big "T" square. 









 







.


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> Once you do a dado with a guide, you won't want to do that on a table. Panels can get hard to handle. You are working face down, and can't see what's going on. Your subject piece can get marred by running it face down. I have the same complaints about using a stack dado on the TS.
> 
> You can make a simple dado jig *like this*. It basically is a big "T" square.
> 
> ...


I see your point and that is a cool jig. But, if the piece is sitting on a sled and you put it there carefully I don't see it getting marred up at all, I mean, at the store the panels (Oak Plywood in my case) are already sitting on top of one another.:icon_smile: 

How repeatable are the cuts for the jig you showed? With the sled and kerfmaker I just set a stop block. Did a dado on board, then the opposite board. Moved stop block for the next dado and repeat.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

srestrepo said:


> i like the jig, and i definitely considered it. i just like the hands off the router approach and prefer the hands on the stock. and i didn't necessarily like the whole thing that the router bit, router and jig are all married. i understand why that is and everything like that but i only have on router and i, being a novice, didn't want to dismantle what took me so long to build.
> 
> figured i'd share my build and ask for honest feedback as well as any suggestions or improvement on current design.


Hi - As you have likely gathered from the responses, there is really no right or wrong way to do anything, as long as it can be done safely. 
As far as your router table goes it looks plenty large and solid enough. I do question the fence however. I don't see a bit opening in the center. Most operations, dado being one of the exceptions, will require much of the bit to be behind the fence face. That's why most of the fences you see will either have an opening in the center or be of the split fence design. Personally, I prefer the split fence as you can close the fence faces up close around the bit. They are also easier to adapt for jointing duty. :smile:


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

I liken your shelf dados being cut on a table with a fence to crosscutting on a table saw against the fence instead of a miter gauge or sled. It can be difficult to keep material square to the fence when you are using the shorter edge as a reference. Generally speaking, small pieces are easier to route on a table and big pieces are better handheld. Personally, I would just use a clamped surface. My Bosch router plunge base has a flat edge, so bit centering is a non issue. To each their own. :yes:

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

I Use an edge guide or a straight edge clamped. With a router, on a lot things, I really need to watch what it's doing.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Srestrepo - Although I belong to the edge guide camp because I need to see the cut surface in order to match, I take my hat off to you for your ability to think outside the box. Although I do have a question about your jig, I've never seen one like it. I can see where we could all use such an addition to our router tables, but I do have a concern about using your great idea on a long workpiece. If you were to extend your table support all the way out,could it support the weight of your 8 ft board. daddo cuts


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

I built and use this with a 1/2" bearing guided straight double fluted bit...http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/204/adjustabledadojig.pdf


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## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

this is all completely helpful. i especially like the dado Jig, and i have plans to build one. although i rather enjoyed my auxiliary fence, i feel like i'd prefer an edge guide or take the plunge and build a dado jig, i've seen both in use and they seem interesting enough. i just didn't have any money and did have some 2x4's and i planed them down on my table saw and made this thing.

bernieL, i have extended it almost all of the way, however hte purpose was not for support but rather, as an edge guide. i just butt my board against it and it woudl be similar to crosscutting on a table saw. i put some paste on it to make it slick. however i will be putting another strip of 2x4 on the bottom of the auxiliary fence so that i may actually be able to use it as support for when i have to dado longer pieces along the longer side. so thanks for teh comment.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I read about this and decided to get one. It works so well that it is pretty much all I use now. Just mark the center line, align the jig, put the right size bit in the router, and cut the dado. It comes with the guide bushing, but you'll need the clamp because that is separate. 

http://www.infinitytools.com/Precision-Router-Dado-Jig/productinfo/PDJ-100/

I also buy most of my router bits from them because they are just across town from me and if I need something in a hurry its easy to drive over and get it. Otherwise its delivered in two days.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I've tried the edge guide with a hand held router ...*

Not so happy with that. A better choice would be a T square with a slot and guide bushing to prevent side to side movement.
My last, best, and easiest shelf dados were on the RAS:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/shelf-spacing-made-simple-using-ras-47095/


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Not so happy with that. A better choice would be a T square with a slot and guide bushing to prevent side to side movement.


As in many procedures...operator input.:yes:









 







.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

After ripping and gluing up panels for the side of my bookcase and shelves, the boards wound up about 5/8 inch thick. The exact width dado jig worked perfect for the dadoes I needed to rout for the shelves. The fit turned out really nice.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

srestrepo said:


> i like the jig, and i definitely considered it. i just like the hands off the router approach and prefer the hands on the stock. and i didn't necessarily like the whole thing that the router bit, router and jig are all married. i understand why that is and everything like that but i only have on router and i, being a novice, didn't want to dismantle what took me so long to build.
> 
> figured i'd share my build and ask for honest feedback as well as any suggestions or improvement on current design.


 
I would remove the router from the table, clamp square to my workpiece and be done with it... (square is used as guide for router)

You spent longer setting up the table than it should have taken to rout all the pieces...

Just my opinion but... You gained nothing in safety with the fence so far away yet you took a LOT longer to do the job that should have been simple and relatively 'safe' anyway.

If you 'really' wanted to be 'safe' and still move fast you could have clamped a straight edge on both sides of the router baseplate to prevent ANY side to side movement at all... :smile:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Exact width dado jig*



woodnthings said:


> Not so happy with that. A better choice would be a *T square with a slot* and guide bushing to prevent side to side movement.
> My last, best, and easiest shelf dados were on the RAS:
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/shelf-spacing-made-simple-using-ras-47095/



Like this:


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

The exact width jigs work best for me. I made these (I have 3) long enough to rout both sides of a bookcase before ripping them apart. Like someone has already mentioned many of us will have dedicated routers. I use a Milescraft base when using these so they're router independent. I usually use downcut spiral bits for varying size dados. Since each end is a separate adjustment, I also cut sliding dovetails with them. Here's one:


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