# Bandsaw sawmill build



## maple man

Am starting this thread to show my building process for my home made sawmill here is the track supplies I just bought I am going to start build the track tomorrow it has a 16' long track and a 36" diameter capacity the sale slip shows my total cost for the 16' track


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## Tennessee Tim

I'm in .....BUT I don't know about a wooden track that can handle 16'x36" log. How you gonna handle weather warping??? What type of sawhead???


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## maple man

Tennessee Tim said:


> I'm in .....BUT I don't know about a wooden track that can handle 16'x36" log. How you gonna handle weather warping??? What type of sawhead???


 good to have you in. My only reason for a wooden saw mill is price you can't beat 43 bucks for 16 feet of track in my opinion. band saw head, and I have no intent of cutting a log that large but I have a cabin where the one lot owner is having a thinning job done and I got permission to go in and take the crotch wood and burks from him so yes some stuff that wide but proble not over 6' long and as for weather warping I plan in building a shed/canopy on it (my reason for the thread of sawmill sheds) 
here is the one burl, size 14 shoe on it, birch wood, and this is just one of many this size that I have gotten permission to take


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## maple man

So here is the track all assembled


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## woodnthings

*is this frame a support for the metal angle?*

What wiil you do next, add metal angle?


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## maple man

woodnthings said:


> What wiil you do next, add metal angle?


 I am udecided on how the carriage will ride on it I am want to put angle iron along the side for it to run on as well as prevent the track from twisting or warping.


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## maple man

maple man said:


> I am udecided on how the carriage will ride on it I am want to put angle iron along the side for it to run on as well as prevent the track from twisting or warping.


 do you guys have any thoughts on a finish I could put on it to prevent it from rotting till I get it under roof


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## Steve Neul

maple man said:


> do you guys have any thoughts on a finish I could put on it to prevent it from rotting till I get it under roof


Buy a tarp or a roll of polyethylene plastic and keep it covered when you aren't working on it.


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## maple man

Steve Neul said:


> Buy a tarp or a roll of polyethylene plastic and keep it covered when you aren't working on it.


 I plan on building a sawmill shed over it should I still cover it over even with the roof over head


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## Steve Neul

Maybe before you put steel on it you should completely paint the wood with an exterior oil based enamel. Then prime and paint the steel before you apply it.


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## maple man

Steve Neul said:


> Maybe before you put steel on it you should completely paint the wood with an exterior oil based enamel. Then prime and paint the steel before you apply it.


 I applied a water replent and mildew restistain under cost that can be painted over


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## woodnthings

*don't use an enamel on the wood*

Enamels are a "film finish" that will eventually fail, separate from the wood and flake off. Use an oil finish that penetrates and can be renewed as many times as necessary by reapplication. Something like this:
http://www.penofin.com/wood-stains/hardwood-formula-wood-stain

DO use a tractor type enamel for the steel angles after priming it well with an oil based primer.... all from TSC or Fleet and Farm if you have one. Spray cans are fine for that, but I often buy a quart and spray it on myself for large parts like tractor buckets.


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## maple man

woodnthings said:


> Enamels are a "film finish" that will eventually fail, separate from the wood and flake off. Use an oil finish that penetrates and can be renewed as many times as necessary by reapplication. Something like this: http://www.penofin.com/wood-stains/hardwood-formula-wood-stain DO use a tractor type enamel for the steel angles after priming it well with an oil based primer.... all from TSC or Fleet and Farm if you have one. Spray cans are fine for that, but I often buy a quart and spray it on myself for large parts like tractor buckets.


 it is not an film finish it was defined for decks and stuff as a base coat to prevent rot


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## woodnthings

*As I said, it's not a film finish like enamel*

You have compressed my post so it doesn't have the same meaning:

Originally Posted by *woodnthings* 
_Enamels are a "film finish" that will eventually fail, separate from the wood and flake off. *Use an oil finish that penetrates* and can be renewed as many times as necessary by reapplication. Something like this: http://www.penofin.com/wood-stains/h...ula-wood-stain


* DO use a tractor type enamel for the steel angles *after priming it well with an oil based primer.... all from TSC or Fleet and Farm if you have one. Spray cans are fine for that, but I often buy a quart and spray it on myself for large parts like tractor buckets._





maple man said:


> it is not an film finish it was defined for decks and stuff as a base coat to prevent rot


It's meant for wood:
*Quick Facts*
http://www.penofin.com/wood-stains/hardwood-formula-wood-stain


Wood stain especially formulated to penetrate dense hardwoods
Added ultraviolet protection
Transparent natural tone allows the beauty of wood to be seen
Used on some of the largest theme park boardwalks in the world
Advanced mildew protection
*Not a surface film that will crack, bubble, or peel*
*MORE:*
Only Penofin's Hardwood wood stain can penetrate dense hardwoods that need nourishing and stabilizing. This unique formula penetrates deep into the wood fibers and does not create a surface film. Unlike high-solid wood stains that simply coat the surface, Penofin's Hardwood Finish, using sustainably harvested Brazilian Rosewood Oil, is the choice of wood experts who know that wood penetration is key to longevity and beauty. Penofin allows wood to breathe, important in working with exotic hardwoods such as mahogany, teak, Ipe, Brazillian Redwood, and many other species. Only Penofin Penetrating Oil Finish can meet the needs of hardwood in fiber protection, penetration, stabilizing, and nourishing.


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## maple man

I started to weld up the log holders today, I will get done pictures tomorrow morning or after noon.


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## hwebb99

Did you do the welding?


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## maple man

hwebb99 said:


> Did you do the welding?


 yes at my school in shop class I will get some pictures for you guys this morning around 8:30


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## maple man

Here is the start of the log holders


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## hwebb99

Did you use a mig or a stick welder? Edit, I see sticks laying beside it so probably a stick welder.


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## maple man

hwebb99 said:


> Did you use a mig or a stick welder? Edit, I see sticks laying beside it so probably a stick welder.


 yes stick it was also my first time welding


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## hwebb99

What kind of engine are you putting on the mill.


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## maple man

hwebb99 said:


> What kind of engine are you putting on the mill.


 a 9hp gas one


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## hwebb99

Do you have access to the school shop when school is out for the summer?


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## maple man

hwebb99 said:


> Do you have access to the school shop when school is out for the summer?


 it is out June 9th I belive I shouldn't need it though I'm doing all the metal work this week other than the log holders, motor mount, and blade guides, it's all wood


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## woodnthings

*maybe I missed it...*



maple man said:


> it is out June 9th I belive I shouldn't need it though I'm doing all the metal work this week other than the log holders, motor mount, and blade guides,* it's all wood*


Did you post your "plans" and how do you intend to get the required strength and rigidity from an "all wood" design? Are you wingin' it without plans? Is there an all wood version you can get ideas from? Just askin' ....


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## maple man

woodnthings said:


> Did you post your "plans" and how do you intend to get the required strength and rigidity from an "all wood" design? Are you wingin' it without plans? Is there an all wood version you can get ideas from? Just askin' ....


 I have plan I was post them tomorrow but there is a all wood saw mill on YouTube that mine will be similar to https://youtu.be/9U8xtMbBrwM


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## woodnthings

*I'm not impressed with that one...*

The shafts are too small in diameter, and the guy says they are bending. There is no blade follower to keep the blade from flopping around on the top. There are no blade guides to control the blade on the bottom. The casters don't seem to be all that accurate, just riding on the horizontal surface, not on 2 planes to maintain constant direction like a "V" groove wheel would... just a few observations. :smile:


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## FrankC

Can't comment on the video, I didn't let it run long enough to get to the saw, wasn't interested in the snow or the language leading up to it.
I would do some careful research and take your time, there are lots of good home built mills out there and lots that show the pit falls to avoid.


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## maple man

woodnthings said:


> The shafts are too small in diameter, and the guy says they are bending. There is no blade follower to keep the blade from flopping around on the top. There are no blade guides to control the blade on the bottom. The casters don't seem to be all that accurate, just riding on the horizontal surface, not on 2 planes to maintain constant direction like a "V" groove wheel would... just a few observations. :smile:


 thank you for pointing that stuff out I will be sure to add and or fix that stuff on my version


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## hwebb99

The blade will fly off the wheels someday. It needs a blade guard.


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## maple man

hwebb99 said:


> The blade will fly off the wheels someday. It needs a blade guard.


 that is the first thing I noticed about his I will be making mine with one


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## hwebb99

It will cost more than $42, but the bed needs to be made with 4by4's or even 6by6,s.It might be cheaper to buy a harbor freight mill.


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## maple man

hwebb99 said:


> It will cost more than $42, but the bed needs to be made with 4by4's or even 6by6,s.It might be cheaper to buy a harbor freight mill.


 the 42 dollars is just for the bed I looked at the harbor freight mill but it is just not big enough to saw the majority of the logs i have


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## maple man

Ok so here is another one I found that is really similar to the one I'm building what do y'all think of this one https://youtu.be/pkNw_tBUqac


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## maple man

Here is saw carriage on the tracks


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## Allen Tomaszek

This sounds interesting and I'm sure I missed this but what species are you making your bed from?


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## Allen Tomaszek

OK... So I just checked out some pics and this will be pine. If this proves to be problematic you might want to consider white oak. Much harder and better for water resistance. 

Will you have a concrete base under this mill or will it setting on the ground? I apologize if I've missed part of the thread. It's different checking this out on my phone than in my computer.

Allen


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## Steve Neul

There is more to a saw mill than just the saw. I'm wondering if you can get a supply of logs and have the equipment to move the logs around. Then do you have the facilities to store the wood until it's dry enough to build something out of it.


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## maple man

Steve Neul said:


> There is more to a saw mill than just the saw. I'm wondering if you can get a supply of logs and have the equipment to move the logs around. Then do you have the facilities to store the wood until it's dry enough to build something out of it.


I can supply the logs I have a cabin so no problem there at all I have 2 ATV's so I haven't had trouble moving the few i have moved so far (yet) and drying I (hopefully) will get around to building a solar kiln


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## woodnthings

*Have you seen this?*

He claims it cost only $350.00 to build this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFNpKC3JTVQ


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## maple man

woodnthings said:


> He claims it cost only $350.00 to build this:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFNpKC3JTVQ


I have seen his mill on Google images it didn't look to great to me. Of course mine probley doesn't look much better if at all to you guys


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## Allen Tomaszek

Maple Man... I think your mill is going to be unique and it will have some limitations but I'm in the camp of "some mill is better than no mill." So keep pushin' on.


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## Fastback

I guess I give the guy credit for building out of wood but... Just keep in mind that wood will twist, expand and contract. What works today may not work tomorrow, such as the post for raising and lowering the saw. As already noted the shafts are a bit small. If they are already showing signs of bending, this is not good. The blade flapping around indicated it is not tight enough.. I don't think I would even experiment on cutting with out some type of blade guard, that just plane dumb. The blade has already come off once. I don't think I like the idea of not having some type of blade clutch either manual or other, just in case of an emergency. Does not sound like he is thinking about his family too much being up there all alone. If something happens... He does not go into blade speed I'm wondering where he come up with the RPM etc. 

All of these questions come to mind as I viewed the video. I am also building a mill, but mine is from steel. Even with this, my build generates a lot of questions. Mine is also being built without plans. I have not updated my post because I have taken a break from the build. Hopefully, I can get back in action soon. 

Anyway, good luck on the build. Please, just keep safety in mind. These thing can be dangerous.

Paul


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## maple man

Fastback said:


> I guess I give the guy credit for building out of wood but... Just keep in mind that wood will twist, expand and contract. What works today may not work tomorrow, such as the post for raising and lowering the saw. As already noted the shafts are a bit small. If they are already showing signs of bending, this is not good. The blade flapping around indicated it is not tight enough.. I don't think I would even experiment on cutting with out some type of blade guard, that just plane dumb. The blade has already come off once. I don't think I like the idea of not having some type of blade clutch either manual or other, just in case of an emergency. Does not sound like he is thinking about his family too much being up there all alone. If something happens... He does not go into blade speed I'm wondering where he come up with the RPM etc.
> 
> All of these questions come to mind as I viewed the video. I am also building a mill, but mine is from steel. Even with this, my build generates a lot of questions. Mine is also being built without plans. I have not updated my post because I have taken a break from the build. Hopefully, I can get back in action soon.
> 
> Anyway, good luck on the build. Please, just keep safety in mind. These thing can be dangerous.
> 
> Paul


 a guard is on the top of my list for sure and his shafting for it look small I though too I ordered 1-1/2" shafting for mine and the cluch clutch for mine Is build right into the motor I'm using


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## maple man

here is my latest progress on the sawmill i have gotten it all painted now and the motor mount completed. The bearings for the band saw wheels came today. now i just have to figure out where to buy 1" steel shafting and it will be just about ready for a test run after the guard to go over the wheels is completed.


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## maple man

(i apologize in advance for the length of this post, but there is pictures so sit tight ) So after i got all that done i was waiting on funding for the rest of the sawmill(still am) But while i am waiting i decided to work on the pad my sawmill would be sitting on up my cabin so on memorial day weekend i went over to our neighbor up there and asked him if i could borrow his loader with the blade on the back for the day. and then i went to work. i first started by leveling of the pad with the box blade, i then cut a path through the woods that i could drive our ATV's with the logs in tow behind them around to the saw mill without dragging logs through our yard and ripping it up. after i completed moving all the dirt around i hauled up 3 yards of crusher rock with the loader (sure bets a shovel my normal way of doing things like this). once i finished all that the day was long over and done with so the next day i decided to go and get some wood so that i can put the sawmill in its final location and start sawing some lumber:icon_smile::thumbsup:. said and done the sawmill will measure 48" wide and 16' long so the pad is 10' by 24'.


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## maple man

here is a few more pictures that go with my last post


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## Fastback

Your moving right along. I still haven't gotten back to mine yet, but its nice to see someone else doing so well. Enjoying the pictures.

Paul


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## maple man

Fastback said:


> Your moving right along. I still haven't gotten back to mine yet, but its nice to see someone else doing so well. Enjoying the pictures. Paul


 thank you sorry to get back to your post so late I am going to get the bandsaw wheels from a guy on Craigslist this week some time I'll include a link to the ad an tomorrow I will upload some pictures of the bearings for y'all http://allentown.craigslist.org/grd/5040545481.html


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## maple man

maple man said:


> thank you sorry to get back to your post so late I am going to get the bandsaw wheels from a guy on Craigslist this week some time I'll include a link to the ad an tomorrow I will upload some pictures of the bearings for y'all http://allentown.craigslist.org/grd/5040545481.html


 oh ya I almost forget total as of right now 196.53 not to bad for a mill this size


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## Allen Tomaszek

Maple man...I'm impressed with the progress. I'll definitely be checking in. Thanks for updating.


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## jacobsk

Keep the updates coming! 

And remember, many folks here are offer criticism in an effort to spare you headaches and aid you in avoiding hazards. Keep the collective thoughts in mind as you progress, but keep progressing!


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## woodnthings

*you need one of these*

You can't be draggin' logs through the dirt or stone... one stone will kill a blade and it's much easier not to "collect" them than to wash them out afterwards.

Buy or build:
http://www.americanbandsawcompany.com/Log%20Arch.htm

more useful info:
http://www.rockisland.com/~tom/tools.html

A used jet ski trailer would make a perfect platform:


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## Alex101

Doesn't look as if it would carry so much weight. Lumber would invariably be more weight than a jet-ski.


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## hwebb99

Alex161 said:


> Doesn't look as if it would carry so much weight. Lumber would invariably be more weight than a jet-ski.


 A jet ski trailer would carry more weight than his mill can handle. He would have to do some modifications to make it work.


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## maple man

here is just a small update here is the bearings i hope to have a log up on the mill by the end of the month


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## maple man

The final couple parts came today for the saw mill so y'all should be prepared to see some boards come off the mill in the coming week or so if all goes as planed


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## maple man

And my problem with dragging logs has been solved thanks to my neighbor up my cabin who is allowing me to use his kubota loader when ever I want so no more dragging logs for me I'll get a picture of my wood stack up tomorrow for y'all that want to see it


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## FishFactory

Although I commend your ingenuity, I will offer this as a sawyer.... I think a wooden mill is destined for failure. There is just not enough strength....period. In any of the pieces. Between the stress and torque on the Mill head and the weight of a log, it just plain wont work. Go buy some angle iron and channel iron to build your bed, lots of ideas out there on line.

You would be amazed at the torque that the mill head takes when sawing. Also turning or sliding logs on softwood bunks will break them right off. 

I am not trying to discourage you but I have built lots of things out of steel amd wood. Most things take extensive engineering and a few tweaks afterwards. Don't try to save time and money by building cheap.....always costs more and it is always more discouraging in the long run.


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## woodnthings

*I respect your opinion however....*

There may be a way to integrate both steel and wood in a manner that will minimize the steel needed. Think about the old wagons that went across this country athat were most made of wood. I remember some on the family farm where some had steel braces or runners where they were needed for strength. The same approach would work on the bed of the mill. 

I do think that an "all wood" milling head may be questionable, but if you use the wood in compression rather than tension it will work best. Reinforced steel gussets will strengthen the joints, just like timber frame construction in some cases where the use steel plates.

As a novice welder, I have made some very stout mobile bases for my table saws and all my own router stands. Even the smallest welded angle iron is so much stronger than a wood section, especially at the corners.


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## hwebb99

Do you have any pictures of your shop made mobile base? I like mobile bases, but I have taken most of my tools off mobile bases because I don't like the flimsy China made bases. Despite having a well equipped metal shop I hadn't even thought of building some. Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread.


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## woodnthings

*I made two of them*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/roller-stand-12-tablesaw-11044/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/mother-table-saw-mobile-bases-v-2-a-11756/


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## hwebb99

Thanks. I will have to redesign. I don't want to gain any height. Obviously I will have to gain some, but I hope to keep it less than 1/2 inch. I also want to overcomplicate the whole thing by designing the wheels to lower down and lift up the base. The reason for this is so I can use cheap wheels without compromising stability. The base would sit on the floor unless jacked up.


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## maple man

I know it been a while but the mill is coming along I have the raise and lower system done the motor mount finalized I finished the painting and have to mount the wheels and I'll be done hopefully this weekend ( getting itchy to crack open a log)


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## georger

love the enthusiasm, I remember when I was eager like that, anyways, food for thought cant tell how big that log in tow was but I don't see that atv hauling much more than that, that log itself will probably yeld 3-4, 2x6s, I recently milled a couple that size and that's all I got out of them, granted they were a little crooked.

any bigger than that would be a challenge not only for the mill but hauling them around, not to mention that once on the sawmill you may have to turn it too, that is my biggest challenge, I have a HF mill and some of the larger ones I milled my JD 310 had a hard time lifting, not to mention I was afraid the frame will bend, now you know the specs for the HF mill and on the larger end you need some equipment to handle the logs, I feel you are way underpowered on that department for the size mill you are building. I bucked my logs at 9 ft last time I tried to pull 2 large ones together my backhoe was just spinning the wheels, granted those ones were some of my largest, I have seen some people use ramps and winches to hoist a log up on the bed, guess you could do it that way, I have done a few 26 " logs just turning it around to cant it got the best of me, those smaller ones like the one you had in tow there I tried to wrestle one up on the mill, maybe I am getting older, maybe its because I have options, but I gave up as soon as my nuts dropped on the ground.


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## maple man

georger said:


> love the enthusiasm, I remember when I was eager like that, anyways, food for thought cant tell how big that log in tow was but I don't see that atv hauling much more than that, that log itself will probably yeld 3-4, 2x6s, I recently milled a couple that size and that's all I got out of them, granted they were a little crooked.
> 
> any bigger than that would be a challenge not only for the mill but hauling them around, not to mention that once on the sawmill you may have to turn it too, that is my biggest challenge, I have a HF mill and some of the larger ones I milled my JD 310 had a hard time lifting, not to mention I was afraid the frame will bend, now you know the specs for the HF mill and on the larger end you need some equipment to handle the logs, I feel you are way underpowered on that department for the size mill you are building. I bucked my logs at 9 ft last time I tried to pull 2 large ones together my backhoe was just spinning the wheels, granted those ones were some of my largest, I have seen some people use ramps and winches to hoist a log up on the bed, guess you could do it that way, I have done a few 26 " logs just turning it around to cant it got the best of me, those smaller ones like the one you had in tow there I tried to wrestle one up on the mill, maybe I am getting older, maybe its because I have options, but I gave up as soon as my nuts dropped on the ground.


 That log was 8' 6" long and 14" in diameter. That is definitely getting close to max size I have pulled up to 24" by 12' logs already though. I too agree that I am under powered with the size of my mill but I was an old motor I had so I decided to use it instead of buying a new one maybe one day I'll buy like a 24 hp one or large


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## georger

I wasn't talking about the saw mill motor when I said underpowered, but rather referring to your 4 wheeler, for the size mill you are building, you need some equipment to handle such logs, an 8'6" you can drag with the 4 wheeler and with a bit of ingenuity you can muscle it up on the saw mill, I tried it once, rolled a similar size log twice before I said screw this get the backhoe, 

I have milled logs close to 30" in diameter, my jd 310 struggled to pick them up, than I had quite a bit of fun trying to turn them on the mill, you don't realize how much those weigh till you try it, that is where the hydraulic mills come in, not to mention if you even attempt something that size that wooden bed may not hold up,

for what you are doing and the materials you are using and your log moving equipment pretty much limit you to about 8' logs 14" wide, not much more, that being said no sense building a huge mill, or getting a 24hp engine, you'll have a problem handling any bigger logs before you go to mill them, and their weight goes up exponentially that wooden bed wont hold up much more.

one thing to consider is a chainsaw mill setup, I was considering one for some of the larger logs I have, to take a slab off as they would not fit on my mill, you could this way take a 24" log and take a 6"slab or 2 off with the chainsaw , make it smaller, lighter, easier to handle before you have to drag it and manhandle it


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## maple man

georger said:


> I wasn't talking about the saw mill motor when I said underpowered, but rather referring to your 4 wheeler, for the size mill you are building, you need some equipment to handle such logs, an 8'6" you can drag with the 4 wheeler and with a bit of ingenuity you can muscle it up on the saw mill, I tried it once, rolled a similar size log twice before I said screw this get the backhoe,
> 
> I have milled logs close to 30" in diameter, my jd 310 struggled to pick them up, than I had quite a bit of fun trying to turn them on the mill, you don't realize how much those weigh till you try it, that is where the hydraulic mills come in, not to mention if you even attempt something that size that wooden bed may not hold up,
> 
> for what you are doing and the materials you are using and your log moving equipment pretty much limit you to about 8' logs 14" wide, not much more, that being said no sense building a huge mill, or getting a 24hp engine, you'll have a problem handling any bigger logs before you go to mill them, and their weight goes up exponentially that wooden bed wont hold up much more.
> 
> one thing to consider is a chainsaw mill setup, I was considering one for some of the larger logs I have, to take a slab off as they would not fit on my mill, you could this way take a 24" log and take a 6"slab or 2 off with the chainsaw , make it smaller, lighter, easier to handle before you have to drag it and manhandle it


To be completely honest I have no intent of ever cutting a log larger than 18-20" in diameter, the reason I made it able to but 38" in diameter is for crotch wood and burls. And from what I have noticed so far there is not very much I can move with our atv's. I am sure I will find the limit eventually but so far have moved lugs upwards of 650 lbs. and it hasn't had a problem


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## hwebb99

The weight of 18-20 inch logs is huge. Your wood bed won't be up to the tack. A 20" log could easily be over 2,000 pounds. Here is a 40" inch diameter 11 feet long log I found. My tractor was having no part of lifting it. It was all the tractor could do to drag it to the road and the tractor weighs 8,000 pounds. I estimate the log to weigh 5,000 pounds.


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## hwebb99

My uncle has a really nice woodmizer sawmill. It has hydraulic log lifters, hydraulic log turners, hydraulic log levelers, and hydraulic log clamps. Two guys can roll a 20" log up on the log lift without much difficulty, but handling it any further without the assistance of hydraulics is a whole different set of problems.


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## hwebb99

Here is what you get into with 38 inch diameter wood. This a 38 inch diameter maple 10 feet long. My tractor could only lift it about 3 inches off the ground. I am going to have to get creative on loading it on a trailer. If I remember right your neighbors tractor has a LA524 loader which still isn't up to the task of loading this beast.


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## maple man

hwebb99 said:


> Here is what you get into with 38 inch diameter wood. This a 38 inch diameter maple 10 feet long. My tractor could only lift it about 3 inches off the ground. I am going to have to get creative on loading it on a trailer. If I remember right your neighbors tractor has a LA524 loader which still isn't up to the task of loading this beast.
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Yes the one does have that size loader the other has the largest kubota sells I believe it had like a 2 or 3 ton capacity


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## Anywhy30

Those logs look like monsters


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## maple man

Just finished the last couple of pieces up so I should be making lumber by Saturday if y'all want I could put a video on YouTube of it. I have the tracks leveled and a log on them all ready to go.


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## maple man

Here it is all finished and sitting in all it's glory


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## maple man

maple man said:


> Here it is all finished and sitting in all it's glory


 it wasn't allowing to upload pictures so here is take two at uploading them


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## woodnthings

*Got a 48" level?*

Either it's a photgraphic distortion OR nothing is level or parallel. The blade carriage and the cross pieces are not parallel to each other in the photo. Can you check them?


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## mengtian

woodnthings said:


> Either it's a photgraphic distortion OR nothing is level or parallel. The blade carriage and the cross pieces are not parallel to each other in the photo. Can you check them?


I thought the same thing.


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## maple man

woodnthings said:


> Either it's a photgraphic distortion OR nothing is level or parallel. The blade carriage and the cross pieces are not parallel to each other in the photo. Can you check them?


It's the photo I took I spent about 6 hours leveling and adjusting everything in preparation for this weekend


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## FishFactory

Better put a guard on that thing.......those blades are violent when they break.......drove one through a metal guard on ours. Be careful.


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## hwebb99

Does it have any blade guides? What clamps the log?


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## maple man

hwebb99 said:


> Does it have any blade guides? What clamps the log?


There is a modified pipe clamp hard that clamps it in and thier is blade gaurds I just haven't had the motivation to put them on yet I want to see it cut first


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## Brian Patrick Maupin

This is an old post but I was curious if the bandsaw mill ever got finished and how it turned out?


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