# Corn Hole Boards



## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

I am finishing up a set of corn hole boards for tailgating at football games. The tops are 1/2 stain grade birch plywood. I would like to paint the logo and then stain the remainder of the board. What would be the best method of doing that and which type/color of stain would be the best to use?


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

ClaytonB said:


> I am finishing up a set of corn hole boards for tailgating at football games. The tops are 1/2 stain grade birch plywood. I would like to paint the logo and then stain the remainder of the board. What would be the best method of doing that and which type/color of stain would be the best to use?


you can stain the boards what ever color stain you want first, then paint your logo on. I used a vynl decal on my boards after I stained mine. I also suggest using minwax polycrylic. This is a water based, water white topcoat that will not yellow. I've had this on my boards now for 3 years now. Good stuff.


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

RandyReed said:


> you can stain the boards what ever color stain you want first, then paint your logo on. I used a vynl decal on my boards after I stained mine. I also suggest using minwax polycrylic. This is a water based, water white topcoat that will not yellow. I've had this on my boards now for 3 years now. Good stuff.


Thanks so much for the input, I hadn't thought about the vinyl decal. Does the decal affect the slide of the bags at all? On the polycrylic, have you had any experience with the spray on version or do you just stick with the traditional? Do you paint on or wipe on? Thanks for the ideas!


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

ClaytonB said:


> Thanks so much for the input, I hadn't thought about the vinyl decal. Does the decal affect the slide of the bags at all? On the polycrylic, have you had any experience with the spray on version or do you just stick with the traditional? Do you paint on or wipe on? Thanks for the ideas!


Minwax makes a polycrylic that you can spray from a spray gun, or one that is sprayed straight from a spray can. I recommend the spray can for this job. Just dont apply it in direct sunlight as it dries pretty fast. I applied 3 coats to mine with good results.

The decal does not affect the "slide" of the cornhole bags at all.....its what you put over the decal that will affect it. Polycrylic does not slide nearly as much as polyurethane for instance. Ive played on boards which have had a polyurethane applied to them and was so slick it was hard to even keep the bags on the boards, HAHA. I actually took the boards, scuff sanded them with 240, and applied polycrylic to the boards and it made a world of difference.

Also polycrylic will not turn yellow when applied or over time.


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

RandyReed said:


> Minwax makes a polycrylic that you can spray from a spray gun, or one that is sprayed straight from a spray can. I recommend the spray can for this job. Just dont apply it in direct sunlight as it dries pretty fast. I applied 3 coats to mine with good results.
> 
> The decal does not affect the "slide" of the cornhole bags at all.....its what you put over the decal that will affect it. Polycrylic does not slide nearly as much as polyurethane for instance. Ive played on boards which have had a polyurethane applied to them and was so slick it was hard to even keep the bags on the boards, HAHA. I actually took the boards, scuff sanded them with 240, and applied polycrylic to the boards and it made a world of difference.
> 
> Also polycrylic will not turn yellow when applied or over time.


Excellent, the last set of boards I made, I didn't put a finish on them and thus I am remaking a set so I am not too too worried about the slide effect. Polycrylic probably has a little more slide than the just the paint I used last time.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

ClaytonB said:


> Excellent, the last set of boards I made, I didn't put a finish on them and thus I am remaking a set so I am not too too worried about the slide effect. Polycrylic probably has a little more slide than the just the paint I used last time.


Correct. I found the polycrylic is the next best thing for minimal slide.....but the main thing was so that my whitest white I could use on my boards stays WHITE. lol


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

RandyReed said:


> Correct. I found the polycrylic is the next best thing for minimal slide.....but the main thing was so that my whitest white I could use on my boards stays WHITE. lol


Randy, do you have a picture of your finished boards? I woud love to see them!


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

I have been wanting to go around the "GO HEELS" with white and around the outside of the Carolina blue that's around the hole in white as well Ive just never done it.....yet. HAHA. :laughing:


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

RandyReed said:


> I have been wanting to go around the "GO HEELS" with white and around the outside of the Carolina blue that's around the hole in white as well Ive just never done it.....yet. HAHA. :laughing:


Those look great. I was a big NC bball fan when Vince Carter was playing there. I always felt a little out of place in Texas rooting for the Tar Heels


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

ClaytonB said:


> Those look great. I was a big NC bball fan when Vince Carter was playing there. I always felt a little out of place in Texas rooting for the Tar Heels


Come on man.....there are UNC fans all over the world! :clap: GO HEELS! HAHA !!


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

if theres concerns over friction variances with vinyl, perhaps apply urethane after the decal?


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

bauerbach said:


> if theres concerns over friction variances with vinyl, perhaps apply urethane after the decal?


 
Once you put 3 coats of polycrylic on the boards there is no variance.....you really cant even feel the edge of the vinyl sticker anymore.....it blends right in and almost looks like its painted on. Plus the polycrylic will not yellow over time.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

ah, I didnt read it right, you had already suggested as much.


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

RandyReed said:


> Once you put 3 coats of polycrylic on the boards there is no variance.....you really cant even feel the edge of the vinyl sticker anymore.....it blends right in and almost looks like its painted on. Plus the polycrylic will not yellow over time.


Randy,was your decal basically the same as a vehicle/window decal? I am looking to have a set made for my boards and didn't know what to ask for. Any enlightenment?


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

Speaking of decals, I use "water slide decals" on wood all the time . They work great. You can seal them with some poly after you put them on. Do a YouTube search.... And you'll see what I'm talking about.


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

davester84 said:


> Speaking of decals, I use "water slide decals" on wood all the time . They work great. You can seal them with some poly after you put them on. Do a YouTube search.... And you'll see what I'm talking about.


I don't know of anyone locally that prints those and I do not have a printer big enough to print that myself. Thanks for the idea though


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

ClaytonB said:


> Randy,was your decal basically the same as a vehicle/window decal? I am looking to have a set made for my boards and didn't know what to ask for. Any enlightenment?


Yes. They are vinyl. I applied soapy water, peeled the back off, lined it up where I wanted it, laid it down and use a flat card to get the air bubbles out, just like window tint. Then I peeled off the "protector paper" and that's it. You can find them on ebay too. I had mine made because I couldn't find them big enough and I wanted it to be big enough to look right on my boards. I think mine are 18 inches wide and 15 inches tall. They were high though, $15 each, but well worth it when I was done. If you cant find a place or don't know if what you are getting is right, I can find out where I got mine from and maybe you can give them a call. A friend of mine told me about this place and he also picked them up for me. They also make cornhole boards. They are located in NC. As a matter of fact, I will ask my buddy for their info and post it here for future reference. I think they have a website too.

Edit: They have a facebook page, but the number is 336-427-5560

They even have different team vinyl wraps that wraps the entire board.


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

So I have decided to go against getting the decals due to the cost of them. So my question is, can I stain the boards first and then paint the logo? If so what type of paint would work best to prevent bleeding of the stain or paint into the other? I am going to seal with your polycrillic as mentioned previously.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

ClaytonB said:


> So I have decided to go against getting the decals due to the cost of them. So my question is, can I stain the boards first and then paint the logo? If so what type of paint would work best to prevent bleeding of the stain or paint into the other? I am going to seal with your polycrillic as mentioned previously.


 Yes, that's exactly what I did. The rams head is a decal, everything else I painted. I used an oil base wipe stain for my back round color of the basketball floor, then I used a vinyl basecoat in tarheel blue and white. Any vinyl or oil base paint will work......latex may bleed unless you put on multiple coats....which you don't want to do.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

With staining and having a logo, the first thing that hops to my mind is to stain the board and then use a router with a template to carve out. The logo. Stains usually don't penetrate too deep, so wherever the router cuts would leave the natural wood color. Only issue is this really would work if you wanted a smooth surface, unless you were to do something special like fill the recess with a casting acrylic or some such nonesense


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

epicfail48 said:


> With staining and having a logo, the first thing that hops to my mind is to stain the board and then use a router with a template to carve out. The logo. Stains usually don't penetrate too deep, so wherever the router cuts would leave the natural wood color. Only issue is this really would work if you wanted a smooth surface, unless you were to do something special like fill the recess with a casting acrylic or some such nonesense


 Yeah, you would want a smooth surface.....although you do make for a good idea.


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