# I need to cut a series of grooves



## vinny (Aug 6, 2011)

I want to cut/router 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep grooves in full length boards 3/4"(spf). I've drawn up a jig that I could make in a couple hours but I wanna check to see if there's an easier way to make accurate, repetitive, cuts with the equipment I already have. I have a 1/2" V groove carbide router bit, router table and an 8" dedo set. See attached pic. The finish doesn't have to be super smooth, these boards will be used for birdhouses.

bit looks like this but with a bearing on top. http://www.grizzly.com/products/90-V-Groove-Bit-1-4-Shank-1-2-Cutter-Dia-/C1205


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

It would be quite easy if you had a bit like the one you referenced. One that has a bearing on top would be for chamfering edges, not making a groove in the middle of the field. If you don't want to spend any money and use what you have, the next choice would be your dado set, on the table saw, tipped to a 45 bevel. It can be done with a single blade, too. You would have to make two intersecting, non through, 45 cuts for each groove. Could also be done with a rabbet plane with a 45 guide block.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Just buy the bit or buy the moulding already made... Otherwise your looking at one hell of a tedious job...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

I don't think that the task will ne that difficult. All you are doing is routing a v shaped flute. I suppose if you had 100's of bd ft to route it would be a pain, but for how little you need it should be doable.

I think that regardless of the method you use, if your lumber isn't perfectly square, your grooves will not be parallel to the edges.

Also, if you use the sled as you designed it with the 'scale' on it, I would also add layout marks on the stock. Use the layout marks and the scale to verify your accuracy, ie, touch the tip of the v groove bit at one end of the board and run the sled along the length and touch on the layout mark again. If everything is adjusted correctly, the tip of the v groove bit should be on the layout mark.

The often repeated advise of using a scrap piece would be a good validation of the whole concept.

Lastly, holding down the piece is going to be important and another challenge. You want the holddowns strong enough so that the piece does not move, but not in the way of the sled.

Good luck and update us on your progress.

Greg


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Cut them on the router table. Cut a number of spacer the thickness of the spacing you want. Attach the spacers to the router fence. Make a cut, remove a spacer and make the next cut and so on.
Tom


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

This would be easy for the router I mounted on the back end of the motor on my old Craftsman radial arm saw. (overhead router)
Run the board along the fence. Add and do it again. Repeat as needed.


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## vinny (Aug 6, 2011)

I built the above jig. Works quite well on the short stock I've run through it. I attached a ruler to the router plate portion which gives me the 1/2" increment needed.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

vinny said:


> I built the above jig. Works quite well on the short stock I've run through it. I attached a ruler to the router plate portion which gives me the 1/2" increment needed.
> Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XAuQJ5A6ho&feature=youtube_gdata_player


That looks like it really works great!!! Nicely done!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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