# Cornhole Boards Project - Plywood or MDF



## JimDavie

Hi everyone,

Just curious if 1/2" MDF would be a better choice (as opposed to 1/2" plywood) for outdoor use "Cornhole" boards?

I plan to prime and use high gloss paint, but they will obviously be used outside, so I was just curious about how MDF stands up.

Thanks,
Jim


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## Wheeler

I would use Plywood. If you're going to paint it anyway ply would probably be easier to finish, in my experience ply lasts longer too. MDF is also not very nice to work with, very dusty nasty stuff. The moisture resistant MDF is also green where I live. I'm not entirely sure it's waterproof... just moisture resistant. Ply can be bought in external boards so I'd go with the ply. 

I could be wrong though so wait and see what everybody else says. I'd personally never use any MDF outdoors.


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## notmrjohn

No MDF outdoors. And I ain't falling for that green stuff moisture "resistant." Exterior plywood, all edges, don't forget the hole, faces painted. Actually MDF takes finishes better than ply, especially when sprayed. But inside only.

I guess I've led a sheltered non-gaming life. I had to look it up. One Look, which searches over 1000 online dictionaries thought it was the same thing I did. Luckily Google sent me to Wiki. I couldn't figure out what the board was for. And outside? We just grow more beans than corn here I guess.


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## Wheeler

notmrjohn said:


> I ain't falling for that green stuff moisture "resistant."


You're right, it's a load of crap and I'd never use it. xD


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## JimDavie

Wheeler, thanks for the feedback. I used MDF to build a "Cake pop stand" for my daughter-in-law's wedding, and aside from the dust it throws up, was pretty impressed with how it cut, and how easily it takes paint. I guess you can look at MDF as a fancy version of particle board (which doesn't handle weather too well either).

Thanks,
Jim


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## JimDavie

notmrjohn, thanks for the feedback. Hmmm... I can imagine what a web search returned for results...


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## thegrgyle

Plywood is definitely the way to go. The others all brought up good points, but plywood will also hold up better from the constant pounding that the bags will do on the boards. MDF does have a tendency to sag over time.

I also have noticed that when the boards are set up at parties, that they are kid magnets, and the small ones like to climb on them. I don't think MDF will support their weight as well as plywood. 

All my boards, that I have made, have been with 1/2" plywood for the faces, and everyone has been very happy with the results. 

Hope this helps.


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## crawley15

*mdo or crezon board*

Jim,

I am a Commercial General Contractor and have used a product called MDO (medium density overlay) or CREZON board for years on the front of buildings for sign bands, soffits and project signage. Just about every 4 by 8 commercial real estate sign installed in the USA at projects is CREZON.

http://greatnorthernlumber.com/crezon.htm

It is basically (at the 1/2" dim) a 5-ply resin impregnated plywood that will have a paper coating on one side and pre-primed on the other. It comes in 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 typically. 

It is the real stuff. It sometimes feels like a best kept secret.

I keep a small piece in my office that was outside in the weather for 5 years with simple painted edges. NO de-lam. There is not a plywood alive that could do that.

It is about twice the price of Exterior A/C plywood. It cuts like butter and gives you very crisp/sharp edges. $ 70 to 80 a sheet and it can be purchased in 4 by 10

I am using it to retrofit my fiberglass boat as opposed to Meranti.

If you really want something to hold up. Look at HDO (High Density Overlay). Usually 7 to 11 plys. Heavy. Is used primarily in the concrete industry to build wooden concrete forms and for forming intricate pours with details or reliefs. This stuff is battleship.

Great products no one knows about!


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## Steve Neul

A lot would depend on how the cornhole boards were used. If they are left outside then I would use plywood. If they are taken it after use then the water resistant MDF would work fine. Standard MDF would would take a thick coat of a exterior oil based enamel before it could be used in damp grass. Standard MDF is basicly a thick sheet of paper like they make grocery sacks out of so it wouldn't take to water.


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## Taylormade

Surprised no one has mentioned the weight aspect of this. MDF is much heavier (all that cardboard and glue I suppose) than plywood. I used half inch sanded ply and 1x4s for mine and they came out structurally sound and lightweight.


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## grbrico

Taylormade said:


> Surprised no one has mentioned the weight aspect of this. MDF is much heavier (all that cardboard and glue I suppose) than plywood. I used half inch sanded ply and 1x4s for mine and they came out structurally sound and lightweight.


I second what he said. That is the way I make mine. I also use my Kreg jig.


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## BassBlaster

I make all my boards and bags to ACA (american cornhole association) specifications. The framing should be standard 2x4's with 1/2" ply on top. No bracing uder the ply either just build a box frame with the 2x4's and add the ply. Adding bracing takes the bounce out of the boards and we cant have that.We take our cornhole serious in these parts!! Lol :thumbsup:

If you go to thier website you can read all the rules and specications for the boards and bags.


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## notmrjohn

The ACA, do they have a Hall of Fame museum? Or a Hole of Fame perhaps?

I've had an unpainted 1/2 sheet of 3/4 MDO leaning against my garage for at least ten years. Every time I think about using it, I think its too good for that, something will come along that I really need it for. Maybe I should get a boat and run it into a rock.


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## EM3

I used 3/4 plywood on 2 by 4 frames and all hardware was stainless steel. I also applied 3 coats of poly and lightly sanded with steel wool between the coats. Yes it is overkill but it is how I wanted them done. Oh I stained the 2 by 4's and legs before I coated them with poly.


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## TimT

I know I'm new to the forum, but I've built around 75 cornhole sets in the last few years and always use 3/4" birch for the tops and I use 1"x3" pine all with pocket hole joinery for the frames with a center brace to eliminate "bounce". I also match the playing surface to the frame by way of flush cut router bit.

I've seen a lot of sets "thrown together" with some plywood and 2x4's but with every set I make, I build them like I'm building them for myself, so I tend to go overboard on some of the details. I install folding legs with a stainless steel bolt that rides against a nylon bushing that is mounted in the frame and the legs.

Here's a small example of some of my work.

























This is the set I recently made for myself which was out of oak with a poplar inlay.


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