# Thinking of routing dovetail groove in uhmw for job site table saw fence



## Dave53 (Nov 22, 2021)

Was thinking of using a 3/4x4"x30" uhmw piece for a skill 8 1/4 job site table saw (fence addition). The idea was to have something stable, slick and extend beyond the length of the original fence to assist stabilizing the piece of wood I'm ripping. I'm currently using a piece of straight poplar that I routed two dovetail grooves for dovetail clamps. The nice thing about the dovetail groove is you can make the fence any height. Fairly new to this and trying to find out if it's worth trying the dovetail in uhmw or just find some very clean/cabinet grade plywood. thanks for any recommendations.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Probably overthinking this a bit. If your present fence is straight and flat that's as good as you'll need.
If it's attached to the job site fence with flush head bolts, that's what you want.
Without photos it's hard to give advice, BUT here's an idea that I built for my Biesemeyer box type fence that's easy to clamp to.
It gives you two working heights, high/tall and low.
The lower thickness allows you more room between the blade for pushing narrow material through without entangling on the blade guard.
You can use a pusher or your hand depending on your requirements and safety rules.
Some would call it an "L" fence, close, but not exactly that.








Anyone read the article on the "L" fence?


Hi everyone, In the most recent Fine Woodworking, there's an article on the "L" fence for the table saw and its many uses, including rabbets, taper cuts, pattern cutting, etc. Pure genius! Has anyone made one? I'm going to make one myself and want to know if there are any modifications or...




www.woodworkingtalk.com














Here's the thread: What's your table saw fence like?

My Delta Unisaw fence also has two positions, tall, and low. It probably was the original idea for the DIYs "L" fences:


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

plastics do not make good fences - especially if extended into mid-air.
eventually, sometimes sooner than later, or left unused and unsupported, they warp.

I have alum angle 'iron' - 8' and 10' - which I clamp to the stock fence and use for straightening hooked long boards.
looks like:


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

How long is the stock fence? Plywood would work. Make an auxiliary fence that has two sides and slips over the existing fence. Make is high enough you can clamp a vertical featherboard on. Also handy for rabbets. I don’t see the need for dovetails grooves.

Every shop with that caliber of table saw would benefit from a track saw both for straight line ripping and sheet goods. I just happen to know someone who has a Festool circ saw who will negotiate the price 😉.
(Check my ad)


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Here’s what I use maybe it will give you an idea. This fellow has an interesting fence, too.


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## Dave53 (Nov 22, 2021)

Thanks for the responses. I like the idea of the high mdf fence face on one of the pictures. Nice thing about boxing it in is you don’t have to keep checking if your fence is at 90 degrees.


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