# Secure a Mobile Tool Base to a Wall?



## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

Folks, 

My radial arm saw is sitting on a stand that I built myself. Its basically 2x6 lumber, on wheels. I've got two MDF shelves underneath the saw. These hold my planer, and my jigsaw. 

The whole stand is on wheels. I did this so that I could move the RAS, if required to cut some very long lumber. 


The problem with this set up is the entire assembly wobbles when I'm raising or lowering my RAS - meaning that some of the energy spent on trying to lift and lower the saw goes to wobbling the stand. 

I'd like to secure this whole assembly to the wall, as if it were built in, but then still be able to remove it from the wall if I need to wheel it to a different location in my shop temporarily. Obviously, I'd still like to put it back against the wall where I took it from, when I'm done. 

Ultimately, when its secured to the wall, I'd like for it to not move/shake during the raising and lowering of the RAS on top. 

Anyone have any suggestions? 

- Thanks,

Todd


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## DannyT (Apr 26, 2011)

how about some braces to get rid of the wobble?


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## schnitz (Sep 5, 2009)

How about something like gate hooks fastened to the wall? I have my router table mounded on an old kitchen base cabinet on wheels. When I need to use it, I have a couple of smaller gate hooks mounted to the stand my lathe is on. Two quick hooks, it's ready to go. Not sure how your walls are (concrete, wood-- if you own the shop, space/mounting requirements, etc...) but it's a suggestion for you.


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## mveach (Jul 3, 2010)

Would double locking casters work or is it that the casters are not level.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Drill some holes in the base, buy 4 "T" nut inserts and screw a bolt down to the floor in each corner, when you want to move the saw just screw the bolts up a bit.


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## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

The problem ultimately is the stand is top heavy. (It has a RAS on top, after all. So giving it liftable legs via bolts wont help. I think thats why it wobbles. 

This is why i've been thinking that attaching it to the wall is more advantageous.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

My Rigid TS has three wheels, one on one side and two on the other. One is on a lever when it is raised the saw is sitting on two castors and two legs. Very sturdy! 

Look at TS in the stores, this is a very common set up, maybe you could copy it? 
HTH JIm 0311


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

jjrbus said:


> My Rigid TS has three wheels, one on one side and two on the other. One is on a lever when it is raised the saw is sitting on two castors and two legs. Very sturdy!
> 
> Look at TS in the stores, this is a very common set up, maybe you could copy it?
> HTH JIm 0311


+1 ...... I use this on my Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer, that weighs about 250#. It works really well.

Fabian


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Nothing wrong with your idea at all. Get a couple of lag bolts and secure it to a couple of studs. Easy to undo when you want to move it, and you can come right back to the same two holes.

Why do something that is more complicated?

George


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

How about installing a rail onto the back of your stand and another on the wall. Offset the wall rail so that you can get a pair of suitably sized C-clamps over both rails to secure the stand.

This might be more convenient than bolts and if you make the wall rail span 3 or 4 studs the location of the stand won't be determined by stud locations.

In the immortal words of Mr. Miagi, "Cramp a-on Cramp a-off.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

jharris said:


> How about installing a rail onto the back of your stand and another on the wall. Offset the wall rail so that you can get a pair of suitably sized C-clamps over both rails to secure the stand.
> 
> This might be more convenient than bolts and if you make the wall rail span 3 or 4 studs the location of the stand won't be determined by stud locations.
> 
> In the immortal words of Mr. Miagi, "Cramp a-on Cramp a-off.


Good imagination. I would think that would work.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*one step further*



schnitz said:


> How about something like gate hooks fastened to the wall?....


How about these which are adjustable, and easily available. 
 

An eye hook on the wall and a stand off bolt with double nuts on the table would be my choice, or 2 hooks.  bill


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## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

The problem is that it needs to feel like its built in. If i use the hooks its going to shake too much, which its already doing.


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

I found the best way for a RAS is to mount a wheel on the front of each front leg, facing toward you. When you want to move the saw, lock the motor in place and tilt the whole saw toward you until the wheels contact the floor. This works great. But the wheels have to be close to the ground so they contact the ground fairly quickly as you tilt the saw. And I mounted an angle iron brace accross the front legs just above the wheels. Works great.


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