# A few shop projects: router cabinet, outfeed table, and crosscut sled



## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

I've finalized a few shop projects in the last week and thought I'd share. 

The router cabinet started about a year ago. It's made of oak ply, solid red oak, MDF, and HPL. It's a Norm Abram's style cabinet with a wrench drawer and three 1/2" shank bit drawers on the left and three 1/4" shank bit drawers on the right. The top right bit drawer has an over sized drawer front to cover the electrical -- a paddle switch is wired to a receptacle inside. Three full extension drawers on the bottom. The fence has two split parts that slide to fit the bit and DC on it. The left has a t slot cut into it to bolt a stop block I haven't made yet onto it if needed. It contains a Bosch 1617 router mounted to a Woodpeckers plate. The length of time it took to assemble was because I ADHD from it and did a number of other projects after completing the carcass. 

The outfeed table replaced my old one, I purchased a new saw and thought a new outfeed table was called for. It's based on a design from the Wood Whisperer, who based his on a Norm Abram's assembly table. It was a quick and easy table made of 3/4" pine plywood. Some modifications I made was to make the bottom a half shelf with an open bottom so that I could store my shop vac under it, and I made brackets and used pipe to hang a roll of thick paper on the end. The paper is unrolled onto the table's surface when I use it as an assembly table or workbench since I have neither of those currently. 

The sled was also a quick and dirty project, spent probably the most time on adjusting the back fence square.


----------



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

That router table is sweet!!:thumbsup:

Out of curiousity, what is the plexi on the front of the cabinet for? I see lots of guys with windows on thier router table. Does it serve a purpose?


----------



## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

As far as I know, it doesn't really serve a purpose other than to make it easier to see if your DC isn't working and a dangerous (overheating) buildup of dust occurs. I've seen tables like this with plexiglass, ones with an entirely open middle for the router, and ones with a wood front. You just have to take into consideration a couple things. Routers will get hot without sufficient air moving through it and DC won't work as well if the compartment doesn't have enough inlets for air to move in as it's being sucked out. That's why I have holes in the plexiglass along the bottom... you can't really make them out in that pic.


----------



## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

You did a great job on all. I have the Woodcraft Router Table Plans and they are VERY similar to yours. I may try to build them this summer and then use the existing Grizzly table top and insert I have for now since it's the same as a standard router table.


----------



## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Those look great Brandon. I see the Ridgid OSS in the background of one of your photos. Looks like a flip-top tool stand should be your next project (if you have something to go on the other side) or a little cabinet like I built here.


----------



## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

Good luck with your build Burb. I thought about purchasing a router table to mount to this carcass but decided on making my own. I was able to source some HPL locally for a decent price. I just hated working with the MDF, but had to anyway for the fence.

Capt'n -- nice eye. A flip cart for that sander is indeed on the list. I am still in the process of deciding which tool to pair it with. I think I'd like another sander -- that's the only sander in the shop besides my ROS. Maybe a nice 12" disc or a longer edge/belt sander. Or a drum sander. Too many tools, not enough room!


----------

