# Adjust Arbor alignment on Delta Contractor Saw



## kholton (Mar 18, 2010)

I need to learn how to adjust the alignment of the arbor on a Delta Contractor Saw. My Blade is not paralllel to the Slot. Anyone know of source for the information?


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

On most contractor saws, the table top is loosened and then adjusted so that the blade is parallel with the miter gauge slots.

BTW - If you expect the table top to STAY aligned, use new washers under the heads of the bolts. The old ones typically distort and as you tighten the bolts the table moves into the previous set of the washer.

Hint - Using garage door hardware washers will reduce the likelihood of the washer distorting.

Hint2 - It helps to use an automotive creeper during the adjustment process.

DAMHIKT


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## kholton (Mar 18, 2010)

*Delta Contractor Saw Alignment*

I believe that I know how to align the table ( Thanks to you) Now I need do it if I can Thanks Rich


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Delta contractor saws are not adjusted by moving the table top, that's for cabinet saws. To adjust a contractor saw, you move the yoke that the trunion assembly is mounted to. The two yoke bolts are in slots, there are also two bolts at the front but you have to reach in under the saw from behind. This operation may have to be done from time to time since the motor mounting system has a tendency to pull things out of line. Loosening three bolts is all you need to do.
There is a product made specifically for contractor saw yokes that aid in making the alignment and help to keep things from moving.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html


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## winter woodworker (Mar 7, 2012)

Referring to the parts diagram, which three bolts do I loosen to align the blade to the miter slot? I have gotten the same problem just recently on my Delta Contractors saw. Are 2 of them the bolts on the rear trunion bracket? Your help would be GREATLY appreciated.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Hammer is right!*



rrich said:


> *
> 
> On most contractor saws, the table top is loosened and then adjusted so that the blade is parallel with the miter gauge slots.*
> (Not so! :no: rich)
> DAMHIKT


On contractor saws, the table top is bolted to the case. The trunnions are bolted to the table top and are adjustable, usually with four bolts, 2 front, 2 rear. As suggested by Hammer, loosen 3 of the four and leave the last one as a pivot to rotate the assembly around in the necessary direction. You may have to loosen the last one a 1/4 turn to free it up enough to rotate ot, but that's all. 
After you think you have it moved correctly. snug them up, but not super tight yet. Check your alignment again, and if it didn't change tighten them to the correct torque. The washers under the trunnions on every contractor saw I've had apart are star washers, not flat washers and they don't squish out. 

Sorry for bustin' on Ya rich, but that's my version and I'm stickin' to it. :yes: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Just for the record..."PALS" works.










 







.


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## tom purcell (Oct 24, 2016)

*adjusting delta contractor saw*



woodnthings said:


> On contractor saws, the table top is bolted to the case. The trunnions are bolted to the table top and are adjustable, usually with four bolts, 2 front, 2 rear. As suggested by Hammer, loosen 3 of the four and leave the last one as a pivot to rotate the assembly around in the necessary direction. You may have to loosen the last one a 1/4 turn to free it up enough to rotate ot, but that's all.
> After you think you have it moved correctly. snug them up, but not super tight yet. Check your alignment again, and if it didn't change tighten them to the correct torque. The washers under the trunnions on every contractor saw I've had apart are star washers, not flat washers and they don't squish out.
> 
> Sorry for bustin' on Ya rich, but that's my version and I'm stickin' to it. :yes: bill


I tried moving the two nuts behind and got it to cut within .008 thousands parallel . That is to say marking the saw blade and using and indicator on dot on front of blade and then rotating the dot to the rear and taking another reading I got the indicator within .002 after tightening the two nuts. How ever it still cuts .008 difference from front to back. The fence is dead on with miter slot too.
Thanks


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*6 years later, almost to the day!*



tom purcell said:


> I tried moving the two nuts behind and got it to cut within .008 thousands parallel . That is to say marking the saw blade and using and indicator on dot on front of blade and then rotating the dot to the rear and taking another reading I got the indicator within .002 after tightening the two nuts. How ever it still cuts .008 difference from front to back. The fence is dead on with miter slot too.
> Thanks


This old thread comes to life to help someone new.:smile3:
Glad it worked out for you.


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