# Walker turner drill press.



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Just picked this drill press at a garage sale today. It's a walker turner. I got it for $5.00. 
I'm thinking it's a good score. It works very good, but don't know much about it. Does anyone know anything about these? If so what do you know that would help me. Is there any value to this? I did a quick search and found some to be quite expensive. Also I'd like to clean it up some, the table has a little rust on it. But other than that it's not bad. I'm not looking for a total restoration, 
But would like to just clean it up. 
Thanks. Here's pics.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looks solid. Could be very nice cleaned up. Here is an extensive restoration of an older WT.
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbth...mber=4978276&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Shop Dad said:


> Looks solid. Could be very nice cleaned up. Here is an extensive restoration of an older WT.
> http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=4978276&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1


Thanks dad. That there is an art. I wish I had a sand blaster. Maybe I would consider. I'm pretty happy with it even if I don't do anything with it. Looks vintage. Hoping someone else knows more about these. 
Theres a thing on the top of it that has a little flap that lifts up and not sure what it's for. It looks like you add a couple drops of oil in there? Not sure.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

*I hope you do restore this can be a beauty*

Nice score for only $5 this is a potential prize.

I have always considered the name Walker Turner with an manufacturer of some robust old machines. I do not know whether they led the industry, but for a long time were a well regarded brand.

For example, the second picture shows a threaded screw for depth stop adjustment. This is a feature I now consider to be on "good" equipment. My first Sears drill press have a screw on a collar which would always slip.

My present Powermatic V2800 has the threaded screw.

There is the potential that the motor does not work, but it should be easy to find a replacement. Just need to know the mounting plate style. I could not read from the photo.

The small lift may be the way to oil spline bearings.

This link to Vintage Machinery has a PDF of Walker-Turner "Use of the Drill Press" which may help understand how the machine was designed.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=4358

Good luck and keep the picture coming as you do the restore.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I currently have a newer version, 1955 1200series Light Heavy weight. I have had older ones like the one in the photo, they are much the same.
The oiler at the top, lubes the 2 upper pulley bearings "one right under the cap", also the quills spindle bearings, and the quill itself where it slides in the casting.
One thing to be aware of, these do not use standard bearings, they are hard to find.
A standard bearing will fit on the OD, but will be loose in the spindle itself. I would flush it out with plenty of oil at first, hopefully preserving the bearings you have..
The drill chuck is a Jacobs lock ring chuck. This can be a good safety feature preventing the chuck from flying off from a side load such as drum sanding.
When the collar just above the chuck is screwed all the way up the chuck is locked on the J33 spindle taper, When the collar is screwed down to the chuck, it is supposed to pop the chuck off the taper, but dont count on that, they can be become stuck over the decades.
If the chuck is sticky in operation, it can be lowered still attached into a jar, or small can of kerosene to clean it, then oil with a quality thin oil like gun oil.
One thing I always like about the WT drill press, is they usually have a precision fit of the quill in the head casting, making operations like countersinking in steel nice without much chatter.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Wow, $5? It sprobably worth 30 or 40 in scrap value!! Nice score!!


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Thanks Dave. I'm really liking this WT drill press it's quiet and smooth. And yes the depth stop is a nice feature. My newer style DP has a screw in the collar that does slip. PITA. Lol. 
The link you posted had an error, so sorry couldn't read it. I'm thinking this is the greatest score of mine, being $5.00 still can't believe it. 
My wife asked me why another one. Haha, i said are you really going to ask. I guess she doesn't understand. Lol
I'd love to restore this, but don't think I have the knowledge or the experience as some of you guys. But whatever. Thanks for the info on this.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

BassBlaster said:


> Wow, $5? It sprobably worth 30 or 40 in scrap value!! Nice score!!


Lol that's what I was thinking at first. If anything I could scrap it. But glad I don't have to.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Benny Blanco said:


> I currently have a newer version, 1955 1200series Light Heavy weight. I have had older ones like the one in the photo, they are much the same.
> The oiler at the top, lubes the 2 upper pulley bearings "one right under the cap", also the quills spindle bearings, and the quill itself where it slides in the casting.
> One thing to be aware of, these do not use standard bearings, they are hard to find.
> A standard bearing will fit on the OD, but will be loose in the spindle itself. I would flush it out with plenty of oil at first, hopefully preserving the bearings you have..
> ...


Thanks benny. That little oiler on top, I put a little oil in there, and when I turned it on oil flung out all over the pulley and belt. Maybe there's a leak or I just put to much? I don't know. 
Thanks for helping me understand the fundamentals of this DP.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

*Link fixed*

Sorry the link had an extra http. This should work.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=4358


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Thanks Dave. I'll be sure to read.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

When you add oil to the top, pull the quill down, that will help draw oil down from the top pulley bearing.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Benny Blanco said:


> When you add oil to the top, pull the quill down, that will help draw oil down from the top pulley bearing.


How much oil is sufficient? 
Thanks for all your help.
Another thing is how do I move the drive belt on the pulleys for different speeds? I'm sure it's in the link Dave sent me.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I would use a bit more oil then what is normally needed right off, to be sure and get oil to the nose bearing, when you see oil coming out just above the chuck, you have oil there.
Normally on the belt change, you have the belt just loose enough so you can roll it off to the smaller pulley, either it will be at the motor end or the spindle end, then roll it on to the higher pulley.
that way, you are not trying to adjust the motor bracket at every speed change.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Benny Blanco said:


> I would use a bit more oil then what is normally needed right off, to be sure and get oil to the nose bearing, when you see oil coming out just above the chuck, you have oil there.
> Normally on the belt change, you have the belt just loose enough so you can roll it off to the smaller pulley, either it will be at the motor end or the spindle end, then roll it on to the higher pulley.
> that way, you are not trying to adjust the motor bracket at every speed change.


Thanks Benny. My belt that's on there is really tight, so I'm not sure if it's even the right belt. 
I'll have to check it out and see again. I was hoping there was a belt tensioner on there. But I guess not.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

There is something I am not familar with on yours, there appears to be a device that hinges below the pulley cap. Dont know what that is for.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Are you referring to this red thing? If so I'm not sure what it is. It just sits there


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Perhaps what I am seeing is a hinge for the belt gaurd at the top.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Benny Blanco said:


> Perhaps what I am seeing is a hinge for the belt gaurd at the top.


Yea that hinge is for the belt guard. It lifts up from the back.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I was able to use this DP today and let me just say this thing is sweet. It's quiet and smooth.
My only gripe is the table doesn't tilt. Uggg. 
It's pretty crucial when working with logs that aren't strait. Thankfully I still have the other one. 
What can be done about this? Or do I have to deal with it?


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

*Tilt*


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Lol. Thanks dad. not what i had in mind, but will consider.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

About all you can do is find a tilt table on ebay, or just use it like it is.
My WT has the exact same collum, round base, and small fixed table.


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## Gougher (Jun 22, 2012)

5 bucks... what a value. Best deal I have heard of for a long time!


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Gougher said:


> 5 bucks... what a value. Best deal I have heard of for a long time!


Yea and the wife had to question me as to why I wanted it. I'm surprised it was still there. I love this thing.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Five dollars? Did you pay cash or finance it?:laughing: Nice find. What size is it?









 





 
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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Five dollars? Did you pay cash or finance it?:laughing: Nice find. What size is it?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Lol. It's a 1/2 Hp.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Dominick said:


> Lol. It's a 1/2 Hp.



What is the distance from chuck center to the column?









 







.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> What is the distance from chuck center to the column?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh I'm sorry. It's 7 1/2.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Dominick said:


> Oh I'm sorry. It's 7 1/2.


Does that make it a 15"?









 







.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Does that make it a 15"?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Lol. Yea I guess 7 1/2 plus 7 1/2 makes 15.


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