# Table saw tape measure question



## massbassin (Feb 9, 2010)

i got a griz 1023s table saw for xmas and it came with a measuring tape to be put on the rail. i havent put it on yet mainly because i have no confidence in lining it up with the blade. have you guys put the tape on your rail? whats the best way to square it to the blade? is it just used as a reference or do u have complete confidence in its placement? its also a little short so i was thinking about buying a longer one. should i invest (its obviously short money)in it just to use as a reference? thanks in advance :thumbsup:
-mike


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## mdlbldrmatt135 (Dec 6, 2006)

When I cleaned up the Used Beise' fence I got I taped the ends down, and just moved the fence along the track and adjusted the tape till I was happy with it's placement, then carefully removed the backign and stuck it down.


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## Geoguy (Feb 22, 2008)

Double check your fence - I'll bet that Grizzly 1023S has a way to adjust the sighting window perfectly on the tape. I have a 1023SL and I use the tape all the time. Once you get it set and adjusted correctly, it sould work beautifully every time.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Stanley makes a good stick-on flat tape. Check it against other measuring devices you have, like tape measures. Set the fence at a known distance from the right edge of a saw tooth.

Set the tape so the locked down fence pointer is at that dimension, and stick down. Use the index line adjustment for exact dimension if necessary. Once installed it's an accurate measure. If you change blades you should check and readjust index if necessary.


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## massbassin (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks for the responses. so if i understand correctly i should be able to adjust the window to correct any misplacement of the tape as long its within a reasonable margin. sounds easy enough and thanks again :thumbsup:
-mike


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

How many of you actually use the "tape" on the rails?

I always use a hand tape to measure between the blade and the fence, both at the front and back of the blade. Or for very accurate cutting I use a solid steel rule. For some reason I just do not trust those "built in" measurements.

G


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> How many of you actually use the "tape" on the rails?
> 
> G



I use the "on rail" tape. A properly set up "T" square fence is reliable, at least it is for me. 

It's not like the original rails on a Unisaw, where you had to measure to the blade for each new cut, and tap the rear of the fence into submission.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I do after I make a reference cut*

You can make a reference cut, say at 24" on ply, then set the cursor to read 24" by locating the piece against the blade and the fence as it would fall normally, motor off. Once this is verified to be accurate that's the last time you'll need to measure...unless you change kerf width.
A tape is a tape, but each time you hand measure you're raising the possiblity of error, the sliding hook on the end may hang up, reading errors etc. A steel straight edge will be more accurate than a tape. The fine line on the adjustable cursor minimizes those types of errors. My style is "cut to fit" rather than measure then cut when that is practical.
However, if you don't have a self squaring fence like a Biesemier or clone, you'll have to measure every time. a PITA. :thumbdown: bill


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

i have the 10" delta table saw Made in USA it is close to 20 yrs old and works perfet I use the scale on the tube that the fence slide's on It is accurate As far as cuts go Now when I am cutting to fit something inside say a box I cut to fit But when building a box the cut is right on But when doing a inside fit cut to fit is alway's the way to do it Just adjust the line when you change to a thin knerf blade or the other way around


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## wooddude9 (Sep 6, 2008)

Its well worth the time to properly set up and maintain the on rail measuring system. When I start ripping a few hundred board feet of wood at different measurements for a job the time to recheck the blade and fence would drive me insane. I re check it and adjust if needed every couple weeks or so and have had very good luck at accurate cuts every time. ( For years)


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I double check the saw's tape with a handheld tape measure the first couple of times after I've made any adjustments, but after that I trust the saw's tape unless there was an issue.


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## Dejure (Sep 2, 2009)

*Initial set up and use of permanent tapes*

I find my permanent tape far more accurate than any tape measure and use the one on my cabinet saw religiously. Once set up, you'll find a properly set up permanent tape, when used with a good saw and fence, will give cuts within a few thousandths of the indicated reading.

To set mine up, I first made sure the blade was aligned with my miter slots (minute adjustment of the table top to the blade), then set my fence to the miter slots and blade. Once that was done, I moved my fence over to the blade, marked the spot on my fence rail, then used that mark for zero, when installing the tape.

As others pointed out, the site gauge is adjustable, probably as much as an eight of an inch, which is a remarkable amount of movement, allowing you to remove the rail and reinstall it with confidence it can be set back within tolerances.


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## xeddog (Dec 14, 2009)

I have a Craftsman contractor saw and I made my own fence rails for a Delta T-2 fence. Of course, I had to add my own tape to the front rail. The way I did it was the way that has already been talked about. I moved the fence to where it just BARELY touched the saw blade, then marked the point on the rail where the index mark on the site gauge would be. 

When done, I set the fence to 4" and made a test cut. According to my digital vernier caliper I just had to make an adjustment of the site gauge by a few thou and then made another test cut. When done, my vernier caliper read 4.002". I thought that was close enough. We are talking about wood here. I'll bet that in 2 or 3 minutes the reading would have changed a thou or two anyway. Bottom line though is that I use this tape and get very accurate results. The only time I don't use it is when trying to cut a piece to fit between two other pieces. Then I will use a measure (and if possible I will NOT use a tape measure) to find the distance, and use the same measure to set the fence.

Wayne


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> It's not like the original rails on a Unisaw, where you had to measure to the blade for each new cut, and tap the rear of the fence into submission.


This is what i have on my Unisaw and although I use the scale to get me in the ball park I always fine tune it with a rule. But even with this double checking that old jetlock fence is a quantum leap from the fence that was on my old c-man saw.


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