# How to finish wood that's been ebonized with Iron Oxide



## Giomon (Jul 3, 2012)

So, I have the look that I want (sort of) for my furniture. I used the iron oxide (steel wool & vinegar, pre-washed wood with tea). What now? Can I use any top coat, water based or oil? Once I apply the finish coat, will the chemical reaction that causes the wood to build "rust" stop? 
How many coats is recommended for a top coat. I don't want a glossy look, I'd like a satin finish. Nothing yellow either.
:wallbash:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You might try a water white lacquer sanding sealer and ww/lacquer.









 







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## Giomon (Jul 3, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> You might try a water white lacquer sanding sealer and ww/lacquer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do you think that a clear polyacrylic would work? I just don't want it to effect the color that I was able to achieve with the vinegar and steel wool.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Giomon said:


> Do you think that a clear polyacrylic would work? I just don't want it to effect the color that I was able to achieve with the vinegar and steel wool.



You'll likely have a problem with waterbase poly, as you used steel wool. I'm pretty sure most directions state not to use steel wool. Steel wool will leave tiny shards of material, and you may get a rusting situation.

If you are spraying, that's why I recommended water white lacquer, and sealer, as it stays pretty clear.











 







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## Giomon (Jul 3, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> You'll likely have a problem with waterbase poly, as you used steel wool. I'm pretty sure most directions state not to use steel wool. Steel wool will leave tiny shards of material, and you may get a rusting situation.
> 
> If you are spraying, that's why I recommended water white lacquer, and sealer, as it stays pretty clear.
> 
> ...


I'm not spraying it on, I'm brushing it. So oil based poly? Or you still think the lacquer?


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

When you say iron oxide and viengar....

Did you follow through and filter the solution before applying? If you did, you can probably put anything over it for the final coat.

If not, I would wash the ebonized surface with denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol. 

If you've made the solution and everything has settled to the bottom, I doubt that you got any steel wool on the wood.

BTW - The iron oxide / vinegar mix causes a chemical reaction with the tannin in the wood turning everything black. Unfortunately the black doesn't go much deeper than about 1/16" so when you sand to knock down the raised grain do so with 320 or 400 grit and do so lightly.


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## fromtheforty (Jan 15, 2011)

I can't comment on lacquer because I've never used it on an ebonized piece. I Have tried W.B. and oil based varnish/poly. W.B. does not give you the same, rich black that the oil based finishes give you. I would certainly use oil.

Geoff


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## mattk8715 (Jan 22, 2010)

Pics? I have nothing to offer you, just want to see a pic because it sounds really interesting. I've heard of using Potassium Dichromate to darken/age wood, but never this.


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## Getting better (Dec 3, 2009)

You should always test your coloration and top coats on a cut off sanded and completely "finished" just like your work. After all that work and material cost you don't want a surprise that ruins the whole thing


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