# What to look for when buying a router?



## ecologito (Jan 27, 2008)

Hi,

I am really new to woodworking and I noticed that a very important tool to have is good reliable router. I know there are routers with very different characteristics, and prices (from 40 bucks to a few hundreds). 

In this hobby I know people fall in love with a brand or characteristic and stick with it forever. I would like to know what to look for on a router. Like most people I would be looking for the best bang for the buck. 

The bottom
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43585


The top
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/574268/Festool-OF-2000-E-Router-Basic


Hopefully with some guidance I can find the sweet middle.


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## MinConst (Oct 30, 2006)

Like you said people will have their own likes and dislikes. The most liked routers are probably PC Porter Cable. I just bought a new Bosh for just over $200. It is 2.25 HP, comes with a standard and plunge base. Nice tool. Model is 1617EVSPK. I do cabinetry work and this will handle any type wood I can put under it. Very well made, and Bosh make great tools.
For a hobbyist you can go with less power. If you plan on doing any composite counter top work like corian or the likes a 3-3.5 hp would be needed. PC has a standard router for around 190.00. I doubt you need to go with your 400+ example. But don't go with the low end one either. Buy good tools and you will appreciate them so much more.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

There are many good brands and models to pick from. I think you first need to determine it's primary purpose and narrow the field accordingly....as in hand use or table mounted.


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## dpmcreations (Feb 3, 2008)

*routers routers..*

well I have to agree.. you have to figure out what you will be doing with it.. If you are doing general then one of the double base kits would be an awesome pick up for you... As you can do pretty much everything, maybe slower at some things, but you can still do it... If you are looking for a workhorse that will be cutting through massive things or really tough materials then go for the big ones.. 

Again.. We the real thing is too figure out what you are going to be doing with it...


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## Norman Pyles (Dec 30, 2007)

I would suggest you go to Pat Warner's website. You will find a lot of useful information, on routers. You have the right idea, not to go cheap on your router. I would look for a, 2 or 3 base router. You get the best of both worlds this way.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Go with the best router you can afford that fits your purposes. Just because you have the budget for a $400.00 router that will plow through marble like a hot knife through butter, does NOT mean that it is any better for the weekend woodworker than say a $70.00 B&D plunge router. 

Don't let the label snobs push you into overspending either. Read the reviews from the people that have actually bought, and use the tools in question. Sure there are a lot of guys out there that love their Porter Cables, and nothing wrong with that. But I know more than a few guys doing great work with Skil, B&D, Ryobi, etc..

Stay away from the brands nobody has heard of unless you can afford to be a quality and usability guinea pig.


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Plans? whuts dat? :} dem green things?


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## ecologito (Jan 27, 2008)

Thanks a lot for all your comments. I know I should look for something that will suit my needs. I'd like to know what to look for on a router. Power? Different shank seizes that can accommodate? anything else?


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## TomD (Dec 3, 2007)

I have a PC 690, I think. It will handle 1/4 and 1/2 shanks and I believe it has a 1.5 hp motor. There is a plunge base available. I use it mostly for rounding edges and some simple joint work. It is a much better tool than Sears rated the same hp. It also cost more. I'm thinking of a plunge router with more power, but I would not get rid of this tool and would replace for like if it broke.

Tom


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## gtobeech (Dec 15, 2007)

I would suggest at least a 2-1/4 hp, be able to hold 1/4 & 1/2 inch bits, have both a fixed base and a plunge base. This would allow you to do almost anything you will tackle. Just my opinion.:thumbsup:


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

ecologito said:


> Thanks a lot for all your comments. I know I should look for something that will suit my needs. I'd like to know what to look for on a router. Power? Different shank seizes that can accommodate? anything else?


You want a router that will accept both 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits, and at least a 10 amp motor. It is going to vary slightly by MFG to MFG, but 12amp motors generally produce about 2 - 2.25hp. 

Generally speaking, if you know how to operate a plunge base router, you don't need a fixed base to go with it. Most plunge routers that I have seen, have a base "lock" that fixes the base in position. However, if you are going to permanently mount a router in a table, a fixed base router can give you a good solid foundation for a lower cost.

I have a B&D Firestorm FS1200RP plunge router that will handle both 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits, has a 12amp rated motor, and a VERY smooth operating plunge. Check out Lowes and get your hands on one to see if you like it. Be aware though, B&D tools are not warranted for professional use. Just home use. (Which is fine by me, I am not making a living with my tools).


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## Knot Home (Feb 14, 2008)

If you ever want to spin a big bit, like a panel raising type, then over two ponies is required. Multiple bases are nice, especially if you want to leave the fixed one in the router table. 1/4 and 1/2 inch bits have their places, so both is nice.


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## TomD (Dec 3, 2007)

It really does come down to what are you buying the tool for. More power is always nice, but besides cost there is weight. The PC 690 is 1 3/4 horse and cost about $100. To move up to 3 1/4 horse, you are over $300. Like I said, I use mine mostly for finishing off edges. 

Tom


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## ecologito (Jan 27, 2008)

I am thinking that I would probably use it to finish off edges maybe mounted on a table and to build some good looking joints.


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## dpmcreations (Feb 3, 2008)

*Hey Eco....*

Probably a good alternative for you would be the multiple base kits that are available... PC, Dewalt, Ridgid, Etc. etc... I would stick in the 2-2.5 hp range... That way as was suggested before, you can always mount the one base on the table... If possible see if you can touch and feel it first... Check out the configuration and the controls. And don't forget to have fun and enjoy your new tool...


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## Dvoigt (Dec 6, 2007)

I'm in your situation right now too. I was looking at the bosch 1617 combo kit, i ordered one from Acetoolsonline because it came with a bunch of other stuff free, but they are still "on order" for the last 3 weeks so i'm going to cancel that order, delete my bookmark to there page, and go pick up the freud 1702 at Rockler, the store by me is also giving a 3 router bit set when you buy it and it is $40 cheaper over the bosch... 

The freud seems to have alot of features that make it easier to use in a table, and that is important to me.


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## ecologito (Jan 27, 2008)

After reading al the posts I am thinking about this router:
http://www.toolup.com/productinfo.asp?pid=%7B7C654855-F195-43C5-B2F8-3D6365FE283B%7D&AdCamp=Froogle_Feed&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=froogle1&utm_term=Milwaukee%205616-24

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/milwaukee/5616-20/

I think it does fit most recommended specs. Anybody with precious experience with this brand or model?

Thanks a lot for the words of wisdom and first hand experience recommendations.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I have owned a Sears router when I first started out, and in time, I came to detest it. I'm sure they have better ones now, but I have had the 1 1/2 hp Porter Cable now for 14 years and it is a workhorse.(model #693) It's quite adequate to cut through anything. You just have to make multiple passes at increasing depths if you have a lot to take off. (but that's the case with most routers) It has both fixed and plunge bases available, so the fixed base can be mounted to a table. Depth setting is very accurate, and repeating a set-up is easy. It's also got multiple depth stops if you have the same cut to make at different depths. You simply rotate the stop and cut your next depth. Easy and accurate.

I also have the 3hp PC, which I use as my table router.(model #7518) Again, it's been a heck of a workhorse these 14 years. And I do this for a living, so they are worked hard and often.

Back when I worked in a cabinet shop in Chicago, the tool reps used to bring different tools in for us to try out. I had the chance to compare Hitachi, Ryobi, PC(which was Rockwell back then), Makita, and others side by side in the same operations on red oak. We stuck with our Rockwells. I've no doubt that some of those models have improved over the years. But I've never had reason to abandon my PC.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

ecologito said:


> After reading al the posts I am thinking about this router:
> http://www.toolup.com/productinfo.asp?pid=%7B7C654855-F195-43C5-B2F8-3D6365FE283B%7D&AdCamp=Froogle_Feed&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=froogle1&utm_term=Milwaukee%205616-24
> 
> http://www.toolbarn.com/product/milwaukee/5616-20/
> ...


I had the smaller 5615 for hand use. It's an excellent router and is extremely well built...I really liked the BodyGrip design for hand use. The 5616 is more powerful plus has variable speed. They now offer the 5616 in a combo kit with a plunge base...Amazon has it for $233 to your door, which may not be much more than the price of just the router with shipping from the other place. 










My favorite router for use in a table is the Freud FT1700. It has a bunch of very convenient above table features...above table bit changes, height adjustment, and height lock. Also available in a combo kit with plunger. I've also a big MW5625 that's a workhorse and Bosch 1617, and used to have a FT2000E in my router table.


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

I still have the first router I bought... It`s a Stanley No 901------- something 3/4 hp and still works great!!! I think Bosch bought out Stanley back in the early 80s. would like to hear if anyone else has an old stanley. Rick


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## huntsman22 (Feb 2, 2008)

P-man, I've had a few of the old Stanley's. Great old routers. The 3/4 horse model I had was a kit. Hinge butt template, router and base, and a planer attachment that took a spiral cut bit. All I have left is the hinge template and spiral bits. Last time it broke down, it couldn't be fixed. I had a 1 1/2 horse mounted in a tablesaw wing. Sold it with the saw. By the way, the stanley and Bosch hinge templates are the exact same animal....Have both.



How come not many here recommend a D-handle base? I find them the most handy for anykind of freehand or edge work. I reach for the d-handle 99% of the time.......... I guess I am stuck on PC, now. Have one more in the table. Don


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