# 2x 110v -> 220v Voltage Converter: Anyone try this?



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I'm looking at how I'll get 220v in my 110v-only detached garage. In the back of ShopNotes issue 118 they mention a 220 voltage converter from Quick 220 Systems: http://www.quick220.com/220_catalog.htm

This product at around $200 allows you to plug it into two 110v outlets on separate circuits to achieve 220v. I'm wondering if anyone has used this since it could be a relatively inexpensive way to get 220v until I can install something more permanent.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I know nothing*

But I'm guessing that the 2 outlets must be on 2 different legs from the panel, not on the same side or same leg.... :blink: bill


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> But I'm guessing that the 2 outlets must be on 2 different legs from the panel, not on the same side or same leg.... :blink: bill


Agree with this.
Tom


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Right, separate (independent) circuits. They have a 15 Amp model and 20 Amp. model (Requiring two independent 15A or 20A circuits respectively).


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*are we done then?*



Shop Dad said:


> Right, separate (independent) circuits. They have a 15 Amp model and 20 Amp. model (Requiring two independent 15A or 20A circuits respectively).


I don't know what this gizmo does other than grabbing the two hot wires and a neutral and ground, in a fancy box, but I know nothing. :blink:


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## Dierte (May 26, 2011)

You need two circuits out of phase. Sounds like you only have 120v in your garage panel. This means you cant use this product


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I have a 60 Amp panel. Three 15 Amp circuits (one garage doors, one lights, one outlets) and one 20 amp (outlets). I'd need to do some minor rewiring to get the additional 15 Amp outlets on a different circuit. All breakers are 110v.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*See if you have 220V coming into the panel*



Dierte said:


> You need two circuits out of phase. Sounds like you only have 120v in your garage panel. This means you cant use this product


Measure the 2 hots coming into the panel. I cant imagine a single pole 60 amp breaker. They should have a 220V potential between them. Also see if the breaker in the house is a double pole which would give you 220v in the garage. I know nothing. :blink:


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> I don't know what this gizmo does other than grabbing the two hot wires and a neutral and ground, in a fancy box, but I know nothing. :blink:


That's how it works.

If you have a 60a panel, it might be 220v inside, but only using 110v breakers. If rewiring is needed to get another hot leg, why not just wire up a 220v outlet and forget about the fancy box?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I know nothing*



Brink said:


> That's how it works.
> 
> If you have a 60a panel, it might be 220v inside, but only using 110v breakers. If rewiring is needed to get another hot leg, why not just wire up a 220v outlet and forget about the fancy box?


Great minds think alike.:thumbsup: That was my next post. If we still have shop dad online here. :blink: bill


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## Itchytoe (Dec 17, 2011)

Here in the United States, we only have 110v power. (Actually, the voltage varies based on distance from the last transformer, but it averages 110. I have 124v per leg since I've right off a transformer.) You get 220V because you can take two 110v legs 180 degrees out of phase, which ends up having a 220v differential between the two phases. If you check, both legs have 110v between it and ground. They do however have 220 between each other since they are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. 

All that device does is rewire two out of phase 100v lines into something that your 220v items can use and plug into. It basically acts as your 220v breakers do, except that it isn't in the breaker box, and isn't actually a breaker. You can do that yourself with some cheap box store items for way less than $200. It won't be as pretty though.


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

Shop Dad said:


> Right, separate (independent) circuits. They have a 15 Amp model and 20 Amp. model (Requiring two independent 15A or 20A circuits respectively).


Not just seperate circuits, they must be different phases for this to work like already mentioned. If you look in your breaker panel going down the line of breakers, every other breaker is on a different phase. When you use a 2 pole breaker it picks up 2 legs, that are opposite phases. If you try to hook this up on two seperate circuits that are on the same phase you will not get 220.


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## Dierte (May 26, 2011)

So shopdad is the breaker feeding your garage panel a 2 pole or a single pole? Also i wouldnt waste $200 for that. You could add a 240v circuit for way less than that assuming you have 240v to your panel.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Itchytoe said:


> Here in the United States, we only have 110v power. (Actually, the voltage varies based on distance from the last transformer, but it averages 110. I have 124v per leg since I've right off a transformer.) You get 220V because you can take two 110v legs 180 degrees out of phase, which ends up having a 220v differential between the two phases. If you check, both legs have 110v between it and ground. They do however have 220 between each other since they are 180 degrees out of phase with each other.
> 
> All that device does is rewire two out of phase 100v lines into something that your 220v items can use and plug into. It basically acts as your 220v breakers do, except that it isn't in the breaker box, and isn't actually a breaker. You can do that yourself with some cheap box store items for way less than $200. It won't be as pretty though.


Wrong.

We have 240vac here and it is set up on a center tapped transformer to give you two 120vac legs. 

We also have 208v 3 phase, 240v 3 phase, 277v 3 phase etc. The commercial field is full of different types of voltages to work off of. 

The standard for residential is 240v


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

ponch37300 said:


> Not just seperate circuits, they must be different phases for this to work like already mentioned. If you look in your breaker panel going down the line of breakers, every other breaker is on a different phase. When you use a 2 pole breaker it picks up 2 legs, that are opposite phases. If you try to hook this up on two seperate circuits that are on the same phase you will not get 220.


A 220 breaker sits on the same leg just separate circuits. I agree for 200and rewiring just add the 220 circuit


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## Dierte (May 26, 2011)

rrbrown said:


> A 220 breaker sits on the same leg just separate circuits. I agree for 200and rewiring just add the 220 circuit


Wrong. Seperate phases gives you 240v. If you put the same phase under a 2 pole breaker you would get 0 volts measured leg to leg


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## Itchytoe (Dec 17, 2011)

Leo G said:


> Wrong.
> 
> We have 240vac here and it is set up on a center tapped transformer to give you two 120vac legs.
> 
> ...


Even with a center tapped transformer, you only have 120 volts between any given leg and ground. That's 120 volts any way you slice it and you agree with me. Those two 120v legs, are 120 volts. They happen to be out of phase and generate 240 volts between them, but not between either leg and ground. Each line is 120 volts... :blink:

There are several ways to tap a transformer, but the only way to get 240 volts in 99.9999% of homes is to go between two legs. Even you don't have 240 volts between a leg and ground. If you don't believe me, go get your multimeter and check. Your entire home, even your 240 volt appliances, are really driven by 120 volt legs. 

Bringing up commercial 3 phase doesn't make sense. It has nothing to do with the OP's wiring, and is completely irrelevant. If you didn't understand my original post, uhhh my bad. It referred only to residential, which is what the OP has in his garage, and is what you have in yours. The commercial field is actually fed by the same generators that you're house is fed by and is turned into whatever voltage/phase is required by the use of transformers, just as your residential circuit is. Want 3 phase in your house? Get your local power company to tap the transformer for 3 phase for you. In fact, some homes have that done. It's nowhere near the norm, but it's been done. You can create any voltage or phase you like. Want 5 phase, with 387 volts on 3 phases and 87.3 on the other two? You can have that too. It isn't hard but it is expensive and you won't be able to run your home with it. 

Standard residential feed in the US is still two legs at 120 volts each. (or 110, or 115 volt. Take your pick, they all refer to the same thing and are all not accurate for the vase majority of homes.)


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Wrong. Anyway you slice it it is 240 volts off the transformer that has a centertap to provide the common 120 volts. You don't add the voltages up to get 240, you divide them up to get 120.


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## Itchytoe (Dec 17, 2011)

It doesn't matter which way you want to go. Add them, divide them... You have two hot lines and one neutral line going into your home. Each hot has a 120 volt potential between it and neutral (which you've probably grounded through an 8 foot copper rod in addition to the electric company's grounding), and a 240 volt potential between it and the other hot line. If you want to get picky, you're fed by transmission lines that are well over 2,000 volts, so why not consider yourself being fed by over 2,000 volts? Because it never makes it into your home. You don't get 240 volts into your home. You get two phased 120 volt legs. If you actually got 240 volts into your home, you would only have two legs feeding your home, and no neutral/ground. That's the only way you can get 240 volts.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

OK, back from an event at the kids school. First let me just update my personal list here...

DO NOT DISCUSS:
Religion
Politics
SawStop
Electricity

Alrighty then. Many thanks for the information and suggestions. Just to assure you guys before I do anything I will be consulting with a licensed electrician. I know enough to be dangerous, but I also know there is much more to know than I do. I'm working on electrician recommendations from friends and neighbors. Looking for a more permanent solution but saw this and it piqued my interest as a possible solution. Believe me I would rather have a 220v breaker and be done with it. I think that will mean getting a new panel which brings its own expense, but like I said I'll talk with an electrician to review options.

It sounds like this COULD work assuming I have what's required coming into the garage, but it's probably better for situations where 220v is only needed for a temporary use.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Whatever. You think whatever you'd like.

Not you Dad


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## nmacdonald (Jan 13, 2012)

Post a picture of you panels


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## SeanStuart (Nov 27, 2011)

Shop Dad said:


> I have a 60 Amp panel. Three 15 Amp circuits (one garage doors, one lights, one outlets) and one 20 amp (outlets). I'd need to do some minor rewiring to get the additional 15 Amp outlets on a different circuit. All breakers are 110v.


Not gonna give you any suggestions, cause I think you got it handled, but just curious if the garage a sub panel from the house box? And is the breaker to the sub-panel a double?


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

rrbrown said:


> A 220 breaker sits on the same leg just separate circuits. I agree for 200and rewiring just add the 220 circuit


240 is not on the same leg, you need a wire on each leg to get the 240.

Are you comfortable working inside a panel? Do you have a voltage meter capable of 240? If so open your panel up. A typical panel has a set of breakers on the left and a set on the right, left being odd numbered and right being even numbered. Now if you are comfortable and ONLY if you are comfortable take your meter and stick one lead on the #1 breaker screw(the screw to hold the wire) and take the second lead and place it on the #3 breaker screw. You will see you have 240, give or take. Now do the same thing on the #1 breaker and the #5 breaker, you will not get 220 because they are on the same phase.

The wires coming in to your panel are 2 "hots", a nuetral, and a ground. Each of the hots are 120, they each go to every other breaker. Put one from each pahse together and you get 240.

You will never get 240 from the same phase or leg.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

This is the church, this is the steeple,
open the door and see all the people.

The "People" is what the inside of the circuit breaker panel looks like. The right hand is one phase and the left hand is the other phase. Each breaker snaps into the panel and slips over one of the people. A 240 volt breaker just snaps over two adjacent people.

As Leo G says, a center tapped 240 volt transformer. Think of the transformer as two AA batteries in a flashlight. The connection between the two batteries is the same as ground in our North American electrical system. If you measure from the point between the batteries to the bulb, the meter reads 1.5 volts. Leave the meter connection to the center of the two batteries and measure to the other end of the batteries and it reads 1.5 volts, EXCEPT the meter shows a NEGATIVE 1.5 volts.

This is the basic concept of the NA electrical system. The NA electrical system is much safer to the consumer than most of the rest of the world's 240 Volt electrical system. In NA we use 120 volts to ground to power most common household appliances. The rest of the world uses 240 volts to ground to power their common household appliances. The reason that our system is safer it that 120 volts to ground probably won't kill you while 240 volts to ground probably will kill you.

The vast majority of people that are shocked (Lethal or not) are between the hot and a ground but not necessarily the neutral provided by the electric company.

Getting back to the OP questions. Will the device work? Yes. Is the device safe? Maybe. Is the device worth the money? Not IMO. 

How do you know if you have the two "Correct" circuits? Put a meter between the smaller slots of the outlets. If you read zero, both circuits are are on the same phase nothing can be used to supply 240 volts from those circuits. If the meter reads 120 volts, you have a wiring error and should engage an electrician immediately. If the meter reads 240 volts the device will work. IMO it is dangerous because if you trip one of the breakers, all of the wiring will be hot through the attached machine. This could be lethal until the machine is unplugged.

Soap Box
Personally I was disappointed that Shop Notes would print such an article. The average electrician or some one with good electrical knowledge could make such a circuit work for a *TEMPORARY* situation and with a lot less expensive solution. However is is not the kind of wiring solution that I would use in a permanent set up.
Steps down off the soap box


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Appreciate the input guys. As requested and for what it's worth here are pix of my panels. First is the 60Amp breaker in my main house panel that sends the line out to the garage. Second is the garage panel. I thought there were three, looks like there are four 15Amp breakers.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

It appears you have 240 volt service to the sub panel. All you would need to do is install the appropriate outlet. This is pretty simple, basic electrical work, if you are in familiar with how to do this then hire a local electrician. The cost should be Minimal.

Good luck


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Unfamiliar. Stupid autocorrect


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Dierte said:


> Wrong. Seperate phases gives you 240v. If you put the same phase under a 2 pole breaker you would get 0 volts measured leg to leg





ponch37300 said:


> 240 is not on the same leg, you need a wire on each leg to get the 240.
> 
> 
> You will never get 240 from the same phase or leg.


_

_

You are right had a brain fart while trying to do to many things.

My apologies and glad you caught it.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Yeah, is the breaker on the right?


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## vinnypatternmaker (Mar 27, 2011)

Hi!
It's this simple...if you have a "220" volt service entrance to your home, (a good thing), what you really have in USA are (2) 110 volt feeders that are 180 degrees out of phase with respect to each other (2 x 180 deg. = 360 deg., aka a full cycle/circle) usually (1) red and (1) black) "hot leads, and (1) white neutral all provided by your power company: as stated in different ways by many contributors above me! Vast majority of "entrances" are "grounded" to a (city) water pipe, or (in remote areas/country) to a conductive rod embedded at least several feet into the earth. Another topic, another time...
That being said, if you don't have two (2) *seperate* out of phase (110-120V) feeder lines provided by your power supplier to your box, then that $200.00 220V "converter" (actually what *does *it really convert anyway), can't work unless you already have "220V" to the house. And if that's the case, then all you need to do is buy a "220V CB" and run it to your garage, using proper 3-wire cable and 220V outlet.
Probably illegal in many areas, you can also "cheat" by runing the black and white of your curent cable to garage to each hot leg, and using the (if you have BX cable), as a "neutral", giving you 220 to the garage! You may seperate power into 120V as needed in the garage. Win win? Check this method out with electrician first, as it isn't alowed everywhere! 
Marena


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_10/1.html


Instead of a single 240 volt power supply, we use two 120 volt supplies (in phase with each other!) in series to produce 240 volts, then run a third wire to the connection point between the loads to handle the eventuality of one load opening. This is called a split-phase power system. Three smaller wires are still cheaper than the two wires needed with the simple parallel design, so we're still ahead on efficiency. The astute observer will note that the neutral wire only has to carry the difference of current between the two loads back to the source. In the above case, with perfectly “balanced” loads consuming equal amounts of power, the neutral wire carries zero current.

Notice how the neutral wire is connected to earth ground at the power supply end. This is a common feature in power systems containing “neutral” wires, since grounding the neutral wire ensures the least possible voltage at any given time between any “hot” wire and earth ground.

An essential component to a split-phase power system is the dual AC voltage source. Fortunately, designing and building one is not difficult. Since most AC systems receive their power from a step-down transformer anyway (stepping voltage down from high distribution levels to a user-level voltage like 120 or 240), that transformer can be built with a center-tapped secondary winding: (Figure below)










American 120/240 Vac power is derived from a center tapped utility transformer.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Yeah, is the breaker on the right?


That's the 20 Amp breaker on the right. The others are 15.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Shop Dad said:


> I'm looking at how I'll get 220v in my 110v-only detached garage. In the back of ShopNotes issue 118 they mention a 220 voltage converter from Quick 220 Systems: http://www.quick220.com/220_catalog.htm
> 
> This product at around $200 allows you to plug it into two 110v outlets on separate circuits to achieve 220v. I'm wondering if anyone has used this since it could be a relatively inexpensive way to get 220v until I can install something more permanent.


I think it would be a waste of money to buy one of those devises. If all you were running was a electric shaver it would work. Those devices are rated at 15 and 20 amps which means you should not run anything over 12 and 16 amps. You would have a situation where you would have to turn the lights and everything else off to run a saw. If you have just have home model tools and you are within 75 feet of the breaker box, you should be able to run a 8/3 with ground wire to the garage and set up a subpanel there with a 45 amp main breaker. You would also need to install a earth ground rod to attach to the subpanel. It's important to have a 220V breaker instead of having two single 110V breakers. I've seen a motor on a air compressor burn up because it kept trying to run when one breaker tripped and the other didn't.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

From this photo showing a double pole breaker, and knowing nothing, I would assume that you have 2 hot lines running to your garage panel, but I could be wrong. Each of the lines is connected to a different leg from the incoming service through the master disconnect at the top. They run down the center buss in your house panel and a double pole breaker attaches to each side, The voltage between these 2 lines is 240V. 
So.... you should have 240V on the panel in your garage. If you remove the cover on the garage panel, look for a red and black line at the top and measure the voltage between them.....should be 240 V. Now in order to run a 240 V receptacle it needs a breaker to protect the wires and it must be a double pole breaker. Your 60 AMP panel may not be set up for a double pole breaker. Now is the time to call an electrician and have him change out the panel...... if that's the case.  bill

Also 240 V machines will have a lower amperage draw than when run on 120 V so the wires can be smaller 'cause they carry less current. Another thing, you can have a higher total circuit breaker amperage count than the disconnect is rated. If or when you exceed the disconnect rating in any combination of running several machines at once it should trip. This is very unlikely if you are a single operator shop.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Here we go again with all the woodworkers playing electricians. Too much guesswork for a situation that can be a real hazard. I can't ever get over all the advice that gets laid out. That's scary!

Is all this advice good advice? IMO...good advice would be to get a licensed certified electrician on site to evaluate what you have and what you want. That's my advice.










 







.


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Shop Dad said:


> OK, back from an event at the kids school. First let me just update my personal list here...
> 
> DO NOT DISCUSS:
> Religion
> ...


Should we also add pocket holes and biscuit joints? :laughing: 




cabinetman said:


> Here we go again with all the woodworkers playing electricians. Too much guesswork for a situation that can be a real hazard. I can't ever get over all the advice that gets laid out. That's scary!
> 
> Is all this advice good advice? IMO...good advice would be to get a licensed certified electrician on site to evaluate what you have and what you want. That's my advice.
> .


+1. My thoughts about it  here.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Longknife said:


> +1. My thoughts about it  here.


That about covers it. No matter how many times it's been said, advice seems to flow out. I can't figure out why that happens. None of the members giving advice are assuming responsibility. Maybe there should be laws making impersonating an electrician a crime.:laughing:










 







.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> But I'm guessing that the 2 outlets must be on 2 different legs from the panel, not on the same side or same leg.... :blink: bill


That is what the original poster said.

Whether or not $200 is a cheap alternative depends upon your specific setup. Primarily how far away and hard it would be to bring in a new 220v line.

George


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## nmacdonald (Jan 13, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> Here we go again with all the woodworkers playing electricians. Too much guesswork for a situation that can be a real hazard. I can't ever get over all the advice that gets laid out. That's scary!
> 
> Is all this advice good advice? IMO...good advice would be to get a licensed certified electrician on site to evaluate what you have and what you want. That's my advice.
> 
> ...


I'm not licensed yet but not to far away from being. (in Canada). An electrician should not have any problem being able to give you the receptacle you need from what you currently have.

You may not even be using all the breakers in the subpanel which could be switch out for a double pole and be on your way with a 1 hour service call

Good luck


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## Dierte (May 26, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> That about covers it. No matter how many times it's been said, advice seems to flow out. I can't figure out why that happens. None of the members giving advice are assuming responsibility. Maybe there should be laws making impersonating an electrician a crime.:laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ive been an electrician for 6 yrs. I am however guilty of impersonating a woodworker.


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## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

Get a volt meter and check in your breaker panel, you probably have 240 in the panel and running a 240 line from the panel would be a lot cheaper than $200.00 for the adapter.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Again, thanks all. I appreciate the discussion. Really just wanted to know if anyone had experience with the device, but as you see I have my reasons for asking which are probably similar to other woodworkers transitioning from a 110v-only shop to mixed 110v-220v machines. While I've done electrical work around the house I have never dealt with 220v before so it is an education to me. 

I absolutely agree that anyone without a good deal of experience/knowledge should consult with a licensed electrician (as I will) rather than trying something on their own -regardless of whether advice/information comes from a forum, a book, the internet etc. However, it seems to me that just as jointing and planing your own wood is a milestone in woodworking, so is moving up to more powerful machinery that requires higher voltage. Because of this I think the question will continue to come up on the forum. There is a distinction between the "you can do it yourself" comments and the "here's how it works" comments. As mentioned, the former should be discouraged as it could lead to personal injury, property damage, code violations, insurance issues etc. However, from my perspective as someone trying to wrap my head around what I need, it is helpful to have a better understanding of how things work. It helps me to be more informed in my discussion with the electrician, have a better understanding of options and have a better shot at putting in place the right solution with potential cost savings. In other words, certainly push back on DIY 220v, but I don't think the entire subject should be taboo. I would rather see members able to have a discussion here, where they will be encouraged to act responsibly, than just getting a quick how-to on YouTube and going for it.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Wait until you have to make the leap into industrial power. I got a crash course last year in commercial/industrial electricity.

You really probably could get a larger load center and then go from there.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> This product at around $200.


What a howling rip off. 

I ran my old TS for years and years and years on the power I drew from two independently breakered 110 outlets by simply combining the two into one with the hot from each going to either leg of the 220 motor. 

Simple easy, if it were hardwired on the wall it'd have been against code, but it was just a shop built extension cord and it worked. 

For convenience, I set it up by running wires from two breakers to the same dual plug outlet. So I only had to plug in right there.

If I wanted to do it right I'd have put the two breakers next to each other in the breaker panel and pinned the switch levers together so if one went they both went.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*electrical "advice"*

Advice is given here all the time in all different subjects and forms. Sometimes even a question provides some "advice".
Any and all advice should be taken with a the caveat the forum home page suggests.

Discussion, asking questions, offering suggestions on what to check and look for seems within the realm of this forum and is it's purpose, other wise why are we here? We have woodworkers with expertise in computers, electronics, auto mechanics, house framing, and probably nuclear physics..... should we not get their opinions?
If the "advice" were:
.... get yourself some no. 5 ga wire, a double pole 35 AMP breaker, a separate junction box and remove the green and yellow hot leads from the panel..... that would be inappropriate at best and if the OP followed it to a "T" that would be foolish and reckless at best, and extremely dangerous at worst.
But that was not the type of advice given here. A discussion followed on the availability of 240 V and how it would be supplied by the power company and what to check in the sub-panel and where, with no specific mention of wire sizes and such and was usually followed by "Get a Licensed Electrician" :yes:

We as woodworkers do dangerous things on a daily basis, spray painting, sawing, drilling, moving heavy equipment, high speed cutters abound in the shop. Electricity is also dangerous, and given the right circumstances can get you killed. Woodworking given the "right" circumstances can get you killed as well. :thumbdown: 

Wiring the electrical panel from specific information on the net is not in anyone's best interest even if they understand that the consequences may result in injury, fire and can even be fatal. So that's why "Get a Licensed Electrician" is always the best idea. I have wired many a panel, outlet and switch under the watchful eye and inspection of a licensed electrician who then approved the work I did. You can save a ton on money that way if you choose. Otherwise pay the money up front and let the electrician do their job. :yes: bill


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Cliff said:


> What a howling rip off.
> 
> I ran my old TS for years and years and years on the power I drew from two independently breakered 110 outlets by simply combining the two into one with the hot from each going to either leg of the 220 motor.
> 
> ...


That sounds dangerous. As someone posted above what if one breaker trips? I'm not getting this thing but for $200 you get a safer set up. From their site:

Meets UL Standard 1012
Tested and Listed by Intertek, a laboratory approved by OSHA to test products for workplace safety.
Patented safety circuit checks and automatically locks out power circuits until connections and voltages are correct. 
Interlock immediately and simultaneously electrically disconnects all input and output power lines if one of the 110/120 volt cords becomes disconnected or looses power.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Leo G said:


> (Figure below)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Leo,
One picture is worth a thousand words. :laughing:


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## bentwood (Jan 26, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> That sounds dangerous. As someone posted above what if one breaker trips? I'm not getting this thing but for $200 you get a safer set up. From their site:
> 
> Meets UL Standard 1012
> Tested and Listed by Intertek, a laboratory approved by OSHA to test products for workplace safety.
> ...


 There is no way in he-- that an insurance company is covering liability for that contrapction. As somone already stated,the folks who suggested it in print obviously didn't research it and put themselves in a bad position by doing the article.


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