# 100 questions about Crush-Grind pepper mills



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

OK, maybe not a hundred, but quite a few. If anyone with experience can weigh in, I'd sure appreciate it. 

There are lots of different instructions for how to install Crush-Grind mills, so I thought if I bought one, the best way to install would become evident. I couldn't have been more wrong.

The one thing that's consistent among the directions is a disclaimer of sorts that indicates that the mill is designed for metric bits and that it may need to be modified to use fractional bits. Since I don't have the bits yet, couldn't I just get metric bits? Does anyone know what the metric sizes are? 

One of the directions show the tabs snapping into a slot that's cut into the recess the mill fits into. It seems to me the tabs would just spin in that slot. There are splines on the body of the mill; are they supposed to keep it from spinning? If so, that seems like a bit of a fatal flaw, since most instructions say to remove them to accommodate the non-metric bit sizes. 

Some instructions reference using epoxy to install the grinder body. I've read many accounts where the epoxy failed to keep the body in place. This seems perfectly reasonable since the body appears to be made of polypropylene which doesn't stick to anything. 

So now, the big question. Has anyone discovered or developed an easy, foolproof way to install the crush-grind mill?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Quickstep said:


> The one thing that's consistent among the directions is a disclaimer of sorts that indicates that the mill is designed for metric bits and that it may need to be modified to use fractional bits. Since I don't have the bits yet, couldn't I just get metric bits? Does anyone know what the metric sizes are?
> 
> One of the directions show the tabs snapping into a slot that's cut into the recess the mill fits into. It seems to me the tabs would just spin in that slot. There are splines on the body of the mill; are they supposed to keep it from spinning? If so, that seems like a bit of a fatal flaw, since most instructions say to remove them to accommodate the non-metric bit sizes.
> 
> ...


You are referring to the shaftless style of the Crush Grind Pepper Mill.

I will not be so bold as to say I have a foolproof method, but it works for me.

I have made two of these so far. The most recent was last Sept.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/crush-grind-pepper-mill-42523/

Like you I read various instructions. One said to use the slot and tabs, another said to break off the tabs and use epoxy.

I use imperial drill bits and make a slot with a Dremel tool. The tabs held while I had the mills. Since passed on to my friends. No feedback on spinning so far.

This shows the Dremel sanding disc.









This shows the sanding disc in the slot. I have the lathe on a slow speed like 500 rpm and have the Dremel tool also turning at its normal speed. Only take a short time to make the slot.









I used the instructions from Penn State Industries which use imperial drill sizes.

The outer diameter has 6 ribs down the length. I file slots in the wood with small riffler files to accomodate the ribs. 

http://www.pennstateind.com/library/PKCRUSHW_ins.pdf


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## Wes Murphy (Mar 7, 2013)

It would be helpful if you told us which style your refering to, the shafted or the shaftless model. I've made many of the shafted Crushgrind, but no shaftless models.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I guess I'm really referring to both the shafted and shaftless models. Both have the tabs and the ribs.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Dave, thanks for the pictures and excellent insight. Very clever use of the Dremel tool. I'm thinkin' that maybe I can cut semi-circular recesses where the tabs go instead of all the way around, making the tabs lock even better. Creating slots for the ribs is taking things to the next level! It definitely seems like those slots would be a key to success. I'm even thinking of making a little scraper to reach in there and cut those slots. This seems like a lot of work just to get a mill with no nut on the top, but yours sure look extra cool.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

You could cut 3 recesses. I thought it was easier to cut a continuous slot and take advantage of the ribs to keep it from rotating.

Happy to help if you have any questions. I am not an expert, but at least I have done this before.

This is one of the few times a Dremel tool has worked well.


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

Quickstep said:


> OK, maybe not a hundred, but quite a few. If anyone with experience can weigh in, I'd sure appreciate it.
> 
> There are lots of different instructions for how to install Crush-Grind mills, so I thought if I bought one, the best way to install would become evident. I couldn't have been more wrong.
> 
> ...


First off, I have made quite a few of these and I hope you are not a novice wood turner because they will drive you to distraction.
2) You will need a set of Metric Forstner Drill bits. http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=metric drill bit set.These will get you started. Some crushers require a 38MM as well.
3) The crushers made in Europe are meant to be pressed into the wooden part of your mill, that's why there are ridges on the sides of the crusher parts. You can cement them in but this method is rather permanent. If you press them in, you can always get them out.
4) On the shaft type crusher, the top drive head is to be pressed into the mill top and the tabs are meant to snap into a grove to retain it. This grove can be made with a tool sold by Craft Supply. Crown CrushGrind® Mill Cutting Tool
$45.45
The Crown® Click-In CrushGrind® Recess Tool makes fitting Click-In CrushGrind® mechanisms in pepper & salt mills fast and easy. Just mark the groove location, cut the groove and snap the mechanism in place. No more guesswork or gluing mechanisms in place. *Fast and easy to use *Unique profile cutter produces exact recess required *Eliminates guesswork and gluing mechanisms *M2 High speed steel *Features premium 10" ash handle
Dave's method will also work but is a bit more difficult.

The methods or instructions that come with the Crush/grinder kit supplied by Craft Supply has been modified to allow you to use Fractional drill bits but they are not correct. The problem is, these mills are made in Europe (Denmark I think) and we don't speak the language the instructions are printed in. Someplace in my shop is a set I have translated so if you need the real thing, let me know.
I hope this helps...


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Syd, What size Metric bits are you using for the shafted model?


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

Quickstep said:


> Syd, What size Metric bits are you using for the shafted model?


I'm sorry, but I am 800 mi from my shop at the moment so I can't get you the exact info you need.
If you have a metric calliper , measure the diameter of the parts that have the ribs or ridges on them, you want to drill the hole so this solid part will go in the hole. The rib will press into your wooden part and make it fit tight. This is what you want. In other words a press fit.

As soon as I get back to my shop I will dig out my instructions I wrote up and send you a copy.

Happy turning... Send me your e-mail address, thanks


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Syd Sellers said:


> I'm sorry, but I am 800 mi from my shop at the moment so I can't get you the exact info you need.
> If you have a metric calliper , measure the diameter of the parts that have the ribs or ridges on them, you want to drill the hole so this solid part will go in the hole. The rib will press into your wooden part and make it fit tight. This is what you want. In other words a press fit.
> 
> As soon as I get back to my shop I will dig out my instructions I wrote up and send you a copy.
> ...



Thanks, I look forward to getting the info when you return, but I'm surprised you don't have those sizes memorized!  Juuuust kidding.


I found directions that reference metric measurements of 38mm (pretty close to 1-1/2") and the other is 25mm (pretty close to 1") 

I put a caliper on each part. The lower part measured just under 1-1/2" and the top measured just under 7/8". So, I drilled a 1-1/2" hole and a 7/8" hole in a piece of poplar. The pieces pressed in with relative ease. Only thing is, poplar is a good bit softer than most of the woods I'd use for mills, but for many of those, I might need to cut grooves for those ribs anyway. 

I can't wait to get the instructions and sizes you have.


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

Quickstep said:


> Thanks, I look forward to getting the info when you return, but I'm surprised you don't have those sizes memorized!  Juuuust kidding.
> 
> 
> I found directions that reference metric measurements of 38mm (pretty close to 1-1/2") and the other is 25mm (pretty close to 1")
> ...


You have the right idea, the metric drill sizes should be in my memory, but when you get old the retention isn't as good as it once was. I think all I did was use the metric size that was the closest smaller size, you do want them tight even Maple will give enough to allow the ridges to press in. I have never had a mill split from pressing in the grinder.
Good Luck..


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

One more quick question.....

What are you using to cut the groove?


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

Quickstep said:


> One more quick question.....
> 
> What are you using to cut the groove?


Read my first post!!!!


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Quickstep said:


> OK, maybe not a hundred, but quite a few. If anyone with experience can weigh in, I'd sure appreciate it.
> 
> There are lots of different instructions for how to install Crush-Grind mills, so I thought if I bought one, the best way to install would become evident. I couldn't have been more wrong.
> 
> ...


Buy the Deluxe PM. They have a shaft and you don't need metric drill bits. You do need one odd size,1 1/6" bit. You don't need to cut any groves just drill holes and nothing to glue in. Firehawkmph has a great set of instructions for making these mills.
Tom


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

For those of you who are making the Crush Grind mills, what techniques and tools are you using to press the mechanism into the mill body and top?


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

Quickstep said:


> For those of you who are making the Crush Grind mills, what techniques and tools are you using to press the mechanism into the mill body and top?


If you have a Drill Press, you can use it, it really doesn't take much pressure to get them in place.


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## Msupote (Dec 12, 2010)

Hi! Syd.

May I have your Peppermills instructions that you mentioned in an earlier post. I am very new at woodturning, but would like to try to make some Peppermills. After reading quite a bit, it seems to be a little confusing. I don't have enough posts to private message you. My e-mail is msupote at gmail.com.

Thanks in advance.


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## cabomhn (Jan 14, 2012)

TomC said:


> Buy the Deluxe PM. They have a shaft and you don't need metric drill bits. You do need one odd size,1 1/6" bit. You don't need to cut any groves just drill holes and nothing to glue in. Firehawkmph has a great set of instructions for making these mills.
> Tom


I second this, Mike's directions are crystal clear and with his guidance making a shafted peppermill is a piece of cake.


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

*Instructions*



Msupote said:


> Hi! Syd.
> 
> May I have your Peppermills instructions that you mentioned in an earlier post. I am very new at woodturning, but would like to try to make some Peppermills. After reading quite a bit, it seems to be a little confusing. I don't have enough posts to private message you. My e-mail is msupote at gmail.com.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


OK, for those that have a few Crush/Grind units in stock, the instructions are on my site at http://www.rocky-roost-woodturnings.com/wood-turning-blog/crushgrind-salt--pepper-set.html

It's pretty easy!!!
As mentioned, there is a US made Crush/Grind unit available now but it's no competition for the European unit.
Happy crushing.


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