# Garage bump out?



## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

So I have a small dilemma on my hands and am looking for opinions here on it. 

My father has offered to help me build and to pay for a garage bump out to increase my workshop space. I mentioned this plan and idea that I found and we discussed it and planned it out in our heads. Here is the article from Family Handyman magazine. 

http://www.familyhandyman.com/video...storage-with-a-bump-out-addition.htm?m_n=true

This is just one of three different options that I have. The other no cost option is to just take over the full two car garage and *suggest* to my wife that she park in the driveway. But with two small children and living in michigan, this doesn't seem like the best option for her or myself. I like sleeping in my bed at night. 

The other option is to build a shed in the back yard. I already have an 8x10 concrete slab in place from the previous owners having a shed there that they removed when they got forclosed on. This would cut my space in half though. My current area is one half of the two car garage which is roughly 10x20. Building a basic 10x20 shed wouldn't give me any additional space plus it would cost any where from $1500-$2000. Maybe more. That's not including any electrical that has to be run out to it. Of course, this is all an estimate based off of pricing for pre fabbed shed kits. 

This is why I keep coming back to the idea of a garage bump out. Even though the cost wouldn't be a whole lot less, it would be the simpler choice. I already have essentially a 10x20, insulated and covered space and adding on to it seems to be the best choice. 

But, what do you think you would do if you were in my shoes?


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

After your explanations, I think it's a good idea. Plus, in some locals, you get taxed per structure. With the garage bump out, you're not adding a structure. You are adding sq. ft. though, so I would ask about taxes and see if there's a difference between a stand alone shed/shop and adding sq. ft. to an existing garage.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would do what I did. Two and one half years ago I "bumped out" my garage by 12 feet. The inside of the garage is 22' wide. So this was adding 244 square feet of inside space.

This now allows me to get both of my vehicles in the garage. Major woodworking machines have to be stored along the walls when not in use.

We were able to do an excellent brick match between the new brick and the 36 yearls brick. 

Be sure to leave yourself an opening for a window style heat pump. That should handle your needs except for the very cold days.

George

The cost of this expansion was $21,***.00. (Do not remember exact figure) I finished the inside. I put in insulation and used pegboard instead of wall board. Highly recommend the peg board.


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

GeorgeC said:


> The cost of this expansion was $21,***.00. (Do not remember exact figure) I finished the inside. I put in insulation and used pegboard instead of wall board. Highly recommend the peg board.



Ouch. That's expensive. 


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Just curious - what is a bump out? 12 feet sounds like an addition to me.

Is a bump out where you open up a wall to add more square footage and put a drop shed style roof on it? That is what a friend did so his boat would fit in the garage. He added about four feet to the rear for the motor and that allowed his trailer tongue to fit inside the garage and the door close properly.

I am so confused. :-(


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Just curious - what is a bump out? 12 feet sounds like an addition to me.
> 
> Is a bump out where you open up a wall to add more square footage and put a drop shed style roof on it? That is what a friend did so his boat would fit in the garage. He added about four feet to the rear for the motor and that allowed his trailer tongue to fit inside the garage and the door close properly.
> 
> I am so confused. :-(



Check out the link I posted in the first post.


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

$100/sqft does seem a bit high for workspace but having to match existing brickwork and trim probably pushes it up. Given that, it seems more reasonable. Consider that this adds to the value of your house so it's not so bad.

So, to your options. I think you know the answer to the "Honey, park outside" option.

An attached workspace will be easier to get to. This is definitely an issue during inclement weather but, in general, it means you will get more shop time. It will be cheaper to get power (vs trenching and such). You will probably need to step up your dust collection game. I'd dedicate a little space to a clean-off area so you don't track dust into the living area.

A detached, non-living space may not be taxed at all or taxed at a lower level, check your local tax codes. No matter what, you will get re-assessed. I'm pretty sure your estimated costs are really low. Those shed kits are about as basic as you can get. You will want insulation, heat, overhead storage (need stronger walls), large doors, plenty of power and so on. I have a detached shop area with no plumbing and bathroom breaks are kind of an issue. Don't tell my wife why the bushes outside the door are growing so well...


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

My current garage isn't heated but may be something I look into later on down the line. 

I will probably add one exterior door but won't need an extra garage door. I will probably do enough of an upgrade to keep the weather out and then slowly add things later like heating, dust collection and insulation. 

Great idea about a small dedicated area to clean off. 

I definitely have a long journey ahead of me before I even go out and buy materials for it. I need to do a lot of planning before I try and sell the idea to my wife. 

I will have to check with the township to see if I have to get a permit and what they require to get one. I'm guessing plans. But I'm not sure if I will have to hire an architect to draw out the plans for it. I have some very basic drawing skills and estimating from classes that I took in college. But jeez that was 15 years ago. 


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Another thing to consider is potential resale value if & when you sell. A stand alone shop, while extremely attractive to most of us here, may not be so to many buyers. Whereas a garage expansion might appeal to more buyers if for nothing more than extra storage space. Also,as you touched on, expanding utilities like your electric would be easier (cheaper) than running a line out to a separate shop. 

For these reasons I would lean towards expanding the existing garage. I would use that 8X10 pad to build a shed for garden tools, lawnmowers, kid's toys, etc down the road as funds become available.


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

My thoughts exactly on the building a shed for lawn equipment and toys. 


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## unclefester (Aug 23, 2013)

JohnK007 said:


> Another thing to consider is potential resale value if & when you sell. A stand alone shop, while extremely attractive to most of us here, may not be so to many buyers. Whereas a garage expansion might appeal to more buyers if for nothing more than extra storage space. Also,as you touched on, expanding utilities like your electric would be easier (cheaper) than running a line out to a separate shop. For these reasons I would lean towards expanding the existing garage. I would use that 8X10 pad to build a shed for garden tools, lawnmowers, kid's toys, etc down the road as funds become available.


I'm with you on all counts


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

juice3250 said:


> Check out the link I posted in the first post.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I guess I wouldn't have had to ask the question if I had checked out that link. It was early and I wasn't awake yet! 

I like the idea of the bump out.


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

I will also have to figure in the minimum side set back for my area. I went on to my township's website and one side has to be a minimum of 6' with both sides combined to be a minimum of 16'. I may be close already. But I'll have to measure as soon as I get a chance. I may be halted before I even get started. If one side is 6 then the other has to be 10. That's house to property line. Not house to house. It makes sense to have those regulations in place. Otherwise you could have two houses literally right up against each other. 


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

juice3250 said:


> I will also have to figure in the minimum side set back for my area. I went on to my township's website and one side has to be a minimum of 6' with both sides combined to be a minimum of 16'. I may be close already. But I'll have to measure as soon as I get a chance. I may be halted before I even get started. If one side is 6 then the other has to be 10. That's house to property line. Not house to house. It makes sense to have those regulations in place. Otherwise you could have two houses literally right up against each other.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am in the same situation. No room to bump out. Can't drain on the other guys property.

I insulated my ceiling (R38)and outside wall of the garage and replaced the overhead door with an energy efficient door. Then I bought a Fedders split system air conditioner w/heat pump. In the mid 90's outside, operating at setpoint inside (77 deg. F.) :thumbsup:


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

Looks like I have around 20' on the side that I want to build on and around 6' on the other. That potentially is good news. First item on the list checked off. 

I will have to talk with my dad again to see how serious he is about helping me with this. Honestly, it's the design phase and getting the approval from the township that scares me. It is all new territory for me. The building process will be hard. I know. But not as much of an unknown as the designing and making sure everything is up to code. 

Of course, if my dad isn't willing to pay for it or at least pay for most of it, it may all just be speculation and just another topic of discussion here. 


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

juice3250 said:


> Ouch. That's expensive.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 That was definitely NOT expensive. You must not have recently priced adding square footage to your house. Of course it may be somewhat less expensive in areas where the construction does not have to adhere to extensive hurricane building codes.

George


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## Steve M. (Jun 4, 2013)

A couple things to consider as you move forward:
-Check with your building department (anonymously so they don't get too interested in you) regarding what is required for a building permit. Many jurisdictions do not require an architect for residential construction. You may be able to get away with as little as a site plan showing the existing house and the proposed addition, but the building department will be able to tell you exactly. You may be able to do this yourself. Some building departments are very happy to help homeowners "do-it-themselves". A building permit is a really good idea for something like this. Building without a permit cold allow your insurance company to deny a claim in the event of a fire or collapse. Also your neighbors could turn you in to the building department and then you'd be facing a fine. Again ask the building department about the costs involved.
-Make sure the new floor slab is connected to the existing slab in such a way as to prevent differential settlement (a fancy way to say "keep the addition floor from sinking below the existing garage floor"). One way to do this is to drill holes sideways into the end of the existing garage slab and putting in some dowels made of re-bar with epoxy that extend out into the new slab. You will also need to have all the other goodies that go in under a slab and a footing around the edges that reaches down below the frost depth, which will be deep in your area of the north country.
Good luck!


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

Thanks so much, Steve for the very helpful info on building departments and such.

If i do end up going through with this project, I will more than likely build the platform and floor out of wood. Also I know the minimum depth of footings here is 42". 

I will definitely check with the building department to see what's needed for a permit. I am hoping as well that they won't require a lot of detailed drawings and plans. 


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

juice3250 said:


> Thanks so much, Steve for the very helpful info on building departments and such.
> 
> If i do end up going through with this project, I will more than likely build the platform and floor out of wood. Also I know the minimum depth of footings here is 42".
> 
> ...


Just a thought...
My water line and natural gas supply to our house runs along the side of my garage exactly where I would build a bump out if I had the real estate available.


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