# old glue problem



## sekennedy (Nov 21, 2009)

I took apart and refinished an old upright grand piano (basically, a tall upright, circa 1920) because it couldn't be tuned any more. It has a beautiful mahogany veneer, and we use the basic cabinet as a place to hold old record albums, cds, and the stereo components. ANYWAY...
The desk (the part that sticks out and holds the music) has been in my garage for a few years, and I'd like to use it to make a small bedside table. (I have other pieces of the piano that I saved, so I can use them for the legs, the skirt, drawer front, etc). I was able to pry off the scrollwork, but there's a piece of molding that goes across the bottom face that the music rested on, and it's glued tight! Can't see any small nails or anything holding it on, so I'm assuming it's glued. Is there any way to remove this piece of wood from the front of the desk without damaging the veneer that's underneath, or loosening it? There's also a thinner piece on the back, so I could practice with that first. I tried prying it off, but no go.
Any suggestions will be welcome!


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## georgewoodie (Oct 20, 2009)

salkenn

Sorry that I do not have an answer for you, but perhaps you could ask by e-mail of some of the glue manufacturers. Surely they would know some history and solutions for glue.

Woodie


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## Joinwood (Nov 23, 2009)

Hello Salkenn,
In those 1920 days the glue used would have been a animal hide/bone boiled glue that would have been heated in a double boiler. 
The only method used to remove those stuck items was to gently apply heat to it, by carefully placing an electric iron to generate heat therefore reactivating the old glue line. 
You have two chances-first in high quality work the base board and moulding (English spelling) would have been polished before the moulding was glued on. Or secondly if it was a cheap knock it out quick job the moulding would have been glued on before any polishing was applied. In this case the moulding would have been applyed before any french polishing was started. Meaning when the hot glue was first applyed to the moulding more than likely it would have soaked through the untreated/polished veneer as well. Therefore in this situration why not instead of trying to remove the moulding by prying it off why not chisel it away finishing with a cabinet scraper and paper, after all you are more than likely will have to completely paper smooth the base in any case.
Cheers


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## sekennedy (Nov 21, 2009)

Joinwood,
Thank you for your reply and suggestion. I tried alcohol, warm vinegar, water (separately) with no success and finally, brute force with moderate success. The moulding came off, but some of the wood stayed behind. The thinner shreds of remaining wood came off easily after dampening with warm water, but the thicker pieces are impervious to water so I'll chisel them down (as per your suggestion) and then try the water treatment. If I remain patient, (the big IF) then I think I can get the rest off without damaging the underlying veneer.

Woody--
Thanks for your suggestion, too. I know that the pieces are joined with hide glue, and that's why I asked the forum for advice. Don't think anyone at my local hardware store is old enough to even know what it is!

Salkenn


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I work with antiques quite a bit and all it takes to remove hide glue is hot water. It will melt the glue and you can pull the piece off. The reason I recommend hot water (NOT boiling hot) is because it is quick. If you try to use an iron or a heat gun, it takes too long for the heat to penetrate the wood. The hot water will find a gap, seep in to it and loosen the glue. If any veneer comes loose under it, just press it down while the surface is still hot from the water. If it has cooled, now you can use an iron over a damp rag or a heat gun to lay the veneer back down. 
Hide glue can be reactiveated hundreds of years later with applied heat. 
Try it, it will most likely work.


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