# How can I get 1/2" stub mount from 1 x 8 RH headstock?



## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

The title pretty much says it all. I have a 1 x 8 tpi headstock with right hand threads and want to end up with a 1/2" stud mount. I guess I could even make a 1/2" female thread work. Does anyone know of this kind of adapter? Thanks

edit: title should read "stud"


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Depends, if it is 1/2 - 20 there are arbours that will fit in the taper of the spindle, if it is a solid 1/2" stub you can use a length of shaft in a collet that fits in the taper.


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

Hello FrankC I should add the fact that the inside of my headstock is #2 Morse taper if that opens up more solutions.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Unclear if you want it threaded (as a 1/2" bolt) or straight rod ... if threaded is good, then as Frank said, perhaps you could use one of THESE arbors


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

adot45 said:


> Hello FrankC I should add the fact that the inside of my headstock is #2 Morse taper if that opens up more solutions.


You can get a collet to hold a 1/2" shaft with a #2 MT.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MT2-1-2-Inch-Round-Collet-/231119809664

If you go to an arbor you will need one with the tail treaded for a draw bolt to keep it in the spindle rather than the more common style with the tongue if you are using it with sideways pressure. The tongue style will work with a drill chuck and drill bit as there is end way pressure on it.


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

Hi Duncan, I'm sorry guys that I'm not familiar enough with the terminology to be clear about this. I would really like to find something that has threads on one end to screw onto my headstock and the other end has a 1/2 " threaded bolt sticking out about 1 ~ 1 1/4". I want to mount ringmaster bowls up to finish turning and finish sanding them. They would only be supported by one end, the bottom. Maybe I could make up a bolt going through wood and mount it to my faceplate and then screw the faceplate to the headstock?.......I could mount a piece of wood to the faceplate and then locate the 1/2" hole by using a drill bit in a chuck with a #2 taper mounted in the tailstock but I don't have one of those yet. Well I'm not real happy with this attempt to state what I'm trying to do either but maybe you can get an idea....Thanks.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

You can buy morse tapers with all sorts of odd shapes on the outboard end. I know you can get 1/2" that fits drill chucks. You can also buy them tapped on the small end so you can use a drawbar through your headstock to hold them in place. Go to www.use-enco.com or www.grizzly.com and look up #2 morse tapers and see what all you can find.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

What you're looking for is a screw chuck.

There is the type that mounts to the headstock threads as you are asking about:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...e-1-3-4"-Screw-Center-Chuck?term=screw chucks

And the type that mounts to the headstock Morse Taper:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...n-Machine-Arbor-Screw-Chuck?term=screw chucks

If the threads are'nt what you need you could drill and tap either one of those to a 1/2" with a Jacobs chuck mounted in the tail stock.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Is this what you want but with a #2 MT:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-New-RID...I-2-Threaded-Arbors-1-MT-AC8010/230935566059?


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

The first one is very close to what I've been trying to describe Dave. If it had a 1/2 x 20 tpi bolt sticking out of it about an inch and a quarter or inch and a half that would be it. I've got some more search terms now though, Thank You.

FrankC That is the correct outboard side I'm looking for but would like the more stable and secure threaded mounting to the headstock. Thank You


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

This may be less expensive if it will work (the threaded section is probably on 1/2-3/4 long.


$5.90 DCA-2M-1220DB 2MT- 1/2"-20 Drill Chuck Arbor, 3/8-16 DRAWBAR 2 MT

http://www.victornet.com/report/Arbors-Morse-Taper-Straight-Shank-to-Threaded-End/1424.html


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

adot45 said:


> The first one is very close to what I've been trying to describe Dave. If it had a 1/2 x 20 tpi bolt sticking out of it about an inch and a quarter or inch and a half that would be it. I've got some more search terms now though, Thank You.
> 
> FrankC That is the correct outboard side I'm looking for but would like the more stable and secure threaded mounting to the headstock. Thank You


When that arbor is inserted with a draw bolt it will be as secure as anything threaded on your spindle.


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

FrankC said:


> When that arbor is inserted with a draw bolt it will be as secure as anything threaded on your spindle.


 Well, that may be the way for me to go then because the only thing I've found is this:










And I don't care for the $50 + shipping price tag........how about one last dumb question......what is a draw bolt?


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

A draw bolt is simply a threaded rod that goes into the back of the morse taper adaptor and has threaded handle on the outboard side. This draws the morse taper in so it can't come loose. A morse taper with a bowl attached to it will come loose pretty easily from the vibrations. 
If it wasn't so cold in my shop I could probably build you one in a day or so. All it takes is a 1"x8 nut which I already have, weld on a piece of metal and then drill and tap it for the threaded bolt you need. I would have to take my welder outside and I'm not really excited about that at -1 temperatures.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

You may also try one of these if it works for you. I bought one as a "safety" center instead of paying $20-40 for a name change.

There is a set screw for the point so remove the point and drill out on the lathe. Insert your lag screw and tighten the set screw. You should be able to use a washer to give a larger mounting area.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-2...S_Hand_Tools&hash=item4d0e0bed7e#ht_555wt_758

I think it is drawbar style and will check tomorrow if you wish.

Drawbar
You should be able to get all thread at a real hardware store. It threads into the end of the MT goes through the headstock. A washer of steel or wood on the outside and a wing nut to tighten it up should do it.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

When I get home I'll shoot a photo of the drawbar I made ... I didn't do any welding, I used one of those hammer-in nuts (I forget the name, it has prongs around a threaded center) in a piece of wood I picked out of the scraps bin.

_(edit ... they call them "t nuts")

_


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

Well, I want to thank everyone again for all the help and suggestions....some of which have yet to sink in. I really appreciate it. I will keep trying to understand how this would work.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Not very good pix, but I hope they demonstrate what a draw-bar is.

Here's the end of the handle, showing the t-nut hammered into the piece of drilled & turned wood, the threaded rod, and a regular nut that locks the threaded rod (so it doesn't spin inside the t-nut).









View from the opposite end -- the threaded rod vanishing into the wooden handle, with a fender washer that fits between the wood and the outboard end of the drive spindle.









And here's one with the drawbar screwed into the end of a MT#2 collet chuck ... you have to imagine the threaded rod passing through the spindle of the headstock, and pulling the MT#2 tight into the taper of the drive spindle.


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

Excellent pictures Duncan, now I see exactly how that works. The end of my spindle is not exposed so I couldn't figure out how something could be drawn up against the spindle housing and not interfere with the rotation. I have a plastic plug in the end with a hole for the rod to be inserted to tap the spur out when changing to faceplate use. The wooden part would probably fit my application after removing that plug. It's 5* below zero right now or I would go out to my shop and check it out. Really appreciate you taking the time to post those pictures, it clarified things for me. Dave


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

You're welcome, Dave! One thing I didn't mention, there's a benefit to making one like this (rather than welding).

I didn't know in advance exactly how long the bar had to be, and it didn't matter -- once I'd cranked the handle to pull the MT collet chuck tight into the drive spindle taper, I could then simply run the lock nut hard up against the handle and it was the perfect length. (The internal threads in the end of the collet chuck didn't go nearly as far as I expected them to, if I didn't have this flexibility I would likely have spent much longer trying to get it the right length.)


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Actually it would be pretty easy to make one. YOu can turn a wooden #2 morse taper very easily. Insert it into the headstock and drive it in. Then drill all the way through with a drill sized to fit a 1/4" drill rod. ( I would make it undersize so you could tap this size with 1/4/20 thread). Then drill for the 1/2" bolt. Epoxy the bolt in place and cut off the head. Then make a epoxy the 1/4" rod into the other end and make a wheel to pull the draw bar in to lock everything in place.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Whatever you use for a drawbar make sure it is drawing the arbor in good and tight, you should have to gently tap the end of the drawbar after loosening it to remove the arbor, a loose arbor can destroy the spindle taper.


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

Thank You all for the wide range of solutions and ideas. It was very helpful and I ended up with at least a stop gap solution to mount things with a 1/2" hole in them. I also ended up with a 1/2" chuck with a #2 Morse taper for my tailstock. So overall I am very happy. For the headstock mount I decided to just keep it simple and epoxyed a 1/2" bolt into a piece of wood and mounted it to my faceplate. I used the tailstock spur to locate the hole and it runs true.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Looks good -- and if it runs true, it should get the job done :thumbsup:

I can't help notice, you're using what looks a lot like the Harbor Freight 12" x 33" lathe. (I still have mine, even though I bought a Nova 1624 about a year ago.)

When I didn't actually need the extension, I found I got a more solid tool rest by taking the extra segment away and flipping the banjo around so the hole for the tool rest post is back on my side of the lathe. Less vibration and chatter, made enough of a difference that I seldom used the extender arm.


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

I never gave your idea a thought Duncan, I'll have to try that. Thanks


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## Mad Turner (Nov 12, 2012)

Here's what I use:



Just change the collet for what ever size rod you want to hold. Works great


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