# Spokeshave chip breaker



## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

Bought this a few weeks back at Woodcraft. I read somewhere that I've forgotten now where that you should remove the paint from the cap iron and blade bed. I didn't look before I started, but it seems the cap iron was too short to begin with. At least it looks that way in this picture as well. Anyone make their own chip breakers before? I was thinking brass would be easy to work, but steel would wear better. On the other hand steel rusts. Maybe I could make it out of stainless. http://m.woodcraft.com/aHR0cDovL3d3...zMC81NzE1L0ZsYXQtRmFjZS1TcG9rZXNoYXZlLmFzcHg=


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

If that's a Samona, they go here for $17.00.
Have not the foggiest idea why you would want to add a chip breaker or strip the paint. Other that a simple tune-up, that one looks ready to go.
I had to file some casting burrs off both of mine. Had to sand the sole, the foot, the part that rides on the wood, with 400 then 800 to clean off the paint slop (it rubs off on the wood).
Get organized to keep the blade almost carving sharp at 28 degrees.

I have one set for slightly thick cuts for basic shape and the other for thin to kiss off the ridges from #1.
Making kitchen prep tools, spoons and forks, for sale in markets. About 70 finished for sale.
Not hard to calculate that I have pulled those SS for more than 1.5 miles in birch to shape handles.
Not counting a buggy spoke that I cut for a restore and spokes for goat cart wheels.


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

The paint was so crappy it wouldn't let the chip breaker lay flat against the blade. There has to be a chip breaker because it's what holds the blade down. It's a Stanly if you check the link.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

The cap iron isn't there to act as a chip breaker, it just holds the blade. As long as it holds it solidly then it is doing its job.


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## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

GIlron is right spoke shaves don't have chip breakers but locking caps.In the link you show a 151 spoke shave but the cap is for a 51 this is maybe the reason it looks small to you. The under side of the spoke shave where the iron fastens onto it must be clean to allow the iron to sit flat if you must, then take a file to it and clean it up.

Heres an observation that I´ve made the shave that I pick up the most is a 54 the adjustable mouth spoke shave and it doesn't have a cap on it just a screw and a washer and I`v never seen a cap on a 54 and they works perfectly well, its got me thinking does a spoke shave need a locking cap IJDK ?


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

Cool. Thanks for setting me straight on the terminology. I'm glad I don't have to make another one. I've already got too many projects to do.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Show us the first few 24" "curlies" that you make when you're pulling a buggy spoke blank.
The first fine ones should look like coil springs. Sorry, but the term "chip-breaker" seems so silly.
You get your S/S tuned up and running, they are one of the most enjoyable wood working hand tools that I have ever used. 
BTW, to get round, I count the strokes. Using both of my S/S, it's no less than 25-30 per corner.


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

Robson Valley said:


> Show us the first few 24" "curlies" that you make when you're pulling a buggy spoke blank. The first fine ones should look like coil springs. Sorry, but the term "chip-breaker" seems so silly. You get your S/S tuned up and running, they are one of the most enjoyable wood working hand tools that I have ever used. BTW, to get round, I count the strokes. Using both of my S/S, it's no less than 25-30 per corner.


Great thanks! So, how big of a corner are we talking about here? 30 strokes would make one big curve if I was doing it  I may be taking too much off though.


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