# Grizzly G0715P



## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

looking at buying this saw.

Anyone ever use it before?

I will get into furniture making, i.e. dressers, coffe tables, beds, etc. Do you guys think this saw be good for doing that?

I also like that the saw can be wired to 110v. But i don't want to realize i needed a full cabinet saw in the future


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I've never used that saw, but it's been getting favorable comments from owners so far. I had a Craftsman 22124 hybrid by Steel City/Orion that's roughly in the same class, and it did all I ever asked with relative ease. With good alignment and good blade selection saws in this class are very capable.


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

also a question as far as the blade.

What would you guys recomend for a good all around blade?

I will be cutting mostly cabinet grade veneer ply and 3/4" solid maple. What blade would be good for that?

Sorry bout all the ?'s but how about your guys luck with a particular stacked dado blde, brand, size, etc.?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

For ply, fine crosscuts, and clean ripping up to ~ 5/4", I'd go with something like a 60T Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB blade, the very similar Forrest WWI, 60T Freud LU88, similar Ridgid Titanium R1060C (by Freud), or the 40T Freud Fusion thin kerf blade. The Hi-ATB blades (Infinity, WWI, and Fusion) will have an advantage with less tearout in ply and crosscuts. The LU88 and R1060 will have a slight advantage in more efficient rips in thicker material (which you haven't specified a need for). These will all make cleaner crosscuts and ply cuts than a standard 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blades like the Forrest WWII or Ridge Carbide TS2000. You can add a dedicated rip blade as needed when you get into ripping thicknesses 1-1/2" or greater. 

For a dado set, the DeWalt/Delta 7670 is one of the best bangs for the buck in the $100 range. For best overall, the Infinity Dadonator will be tough to beat. Your saw will handle 6" or 8"...I'd shop price and performance instead of size.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

wfs, I picked up the Delta 7670 set that knottscott mentioned through grizzly for $89.95 and they through in a free magnetic shim set.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

wfs...Grizzly just got this saw in stock. If your wanting one, now would be a good time to order it. It has been on back order since I think around October.

If you would prefer to wait on some reviews there are at least three of us expecting this saw next week so there should be some more info about it. Also, check out the lumberjocks forum, there are lots of reviews for this saw there.


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

did you get yours yet and get it up and running? A full review would be greatly appreciated along with any pics or video - bunch of thanks in advance - i am ordering mine as soon as i get some more good feedback


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

wfs said:


> did you get yours yet and get it up and running? A full review would be greatly appreciated along with any pics or video - bunch of thanks in advance - i am ordering mine as soon as i get some more good feedback


 I did. I got it on Tuesday. Still in the setup phase allthough I think I'm about done. Havnt had a whole lot of time to spend with it. Not enough to write up a full review yet. Will be a couple weeks before I do that. Need to do a project or two with it. I posted pics in a thread titled "Grizzly TS". Just the little I have played with it, all I can say is WOW!! This thing is a beast and I know I'm gonna love it. I havnt taken any video but I can tell you it passed the nickle test with flying colors right out of the box. I suppose if you need, I could do a little nickle test video. Ive never posted videos though so there may be a learning curve. Theres at least 2 other people that ordered this saw or at least said they ordered this saw. I havnt seen either of em post though. In the meantime, definately check out that lumberjocks forum if you havnt allready. Theres more reviews for this saw there than any other place I could find.


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

thanks - keep me posted with your new saw - nickel test not needed i have seen it on youtube - more or less like to know in the coming weeks how it cuts, i.e. power, speed, fence accuracy, etc.


PS thanks a lot for all the info


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## dejones (Oct 15, 2010)

*Fence Issue*

Hi,

I also just received my new G0175P saw and after the battle to get it into my basement the setup went very smoothly and besides one issuee, I have a fabulous saw ( The miter gauge needed some attention but now I have it is as good as it is ever going to be).

I have had a hard time getting the fence set up. I have come up with a workable, but less than satisfactory solution. The problem is the fact that as I tightened down on the fence clamping bar, the fence at the back of the table moved to the right a little bit (between 1/8 & 1/16). I looked at the clamp and noticed that the surface that tightens against the rail was poorly cast and so was pushing all on one side. I lightly ground it to cause the pressure to be applied from it's center. This did not fix it though.

I then noticed that the fence base that sits over top of the rail bar is not exactly square. Instead up an upside down "U with the "U" sides exactly parallel to the rail sides, the fence base sides angle away at the bottom and further, the right side angles away to a greater extent than the left side. I think this causes to right side to be pulled a littler bit further in than the left side, thus making the fence angle a small amount.

I got around this by tightening the various set screws in such a way that upon tightening it first pulls a tiny bit to the left and then it pulls to the right the same amount. A work around but not a particularly pretty one.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Thanks


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## mwhals (Apr 13, 2010)

dejones said:


> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue?
> 
> Thanks


I would give Grizzly a call. Many people on this site have had very good service from their customer service. They may even ship you a replacement fence and rails with you sending yours back. It is worth a call.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I would definately call Grizzly. I had zero problems with my fence. It works perfectly. I set everything up with a dial indicater and I was able to get the blade within .002 and the fence less than .001.

My saw was missing a lock knob for the bevel crank. I sent Grizzly an email and they replied very quickly to let me know they are shipping one to me. I'm sure if you call them, they will handle it.


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## RailDude (Oct 27, 2010)

I have this saw and the same fence issue as dejones is having, it pulls to the right in the back every time I tighten the fence clamp. Its a PITA to keep having to compensate for this until I get the measurement right. Also, the plastic fence faces are full of high and low spots. Grizzly immediately sent me a replacement plastic face but it only helped somewhat, and I have removed it for now in order to have a flat fence. The miter gauge I didn't even bother with, it will more than likely be replaced with an incra. Other than the fence thus far being a POS I love the saw itself. I got an Infinity 010-060 per knotscotts recommendation and it cuts very smoothly with no tear out that I can see. Also got a Forrest WWII that I like very much. I am just a hobbyist but the saw itself has done everything I have asked of it so far and I love making saw dust with it. Maybe I just got a lemon, but I would think for the money a company like Grizzly would ship a decent fence with an otherwise very good saw.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

At the risk of pointing out the obvious, I just wanted to make sure that you're aware of the fence adjustment set screws shown here:


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

The face of the fence is a little wavy but according to my dial indicater, its isnt more than .002 anywhere from front to back.

When you adjust that fence, all the adjustment is on those rear set screws that knottscott posted. Make sure to loosen the front screws or you will just put the whole thing in a bind when you start moving the rears. I just backed the fronts off a full turn. Adjust the back setscrews untill the fence is parallel to the blade then retighten the fronts untill the glides just kiss the rail and then tighten the locknuts. Mine glides like butter and is perfectly parallel and stays that way after being locked down. You have to keep taking the fence off, tweak the setscrews a little, put it back on and check it, take it off and tweak em a little. Its a tedious process. I think it took about 15 minutes to get perfect.

The blade alignment is a whole other issue. make sure it is good before you even mess with the fence.


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## RailDude (Oct 27, 2010)

That is exactly how I adjusted the fence. I will start over with it today and readjust it again before calling Grizzly. Ive read lots of good and only a couple bad reviews about this fence, so operator error is certainly a possibility here. However....put one pile of crap in a 100 acre rose patch and guess who will step in it....lol. The blade was out of parallel with the miter slot by .009 when I first got the saw, it is now .001 according to the digital indicator.


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

interesting to know all this.

is the fence face made from polytetrafluoroethylene (*PTFE*)?

if so, do you guys think it could be run through a jointer and/or surface planer to get the faces flat and parallel?

I thought i remember guys routing this material for jigs and what not.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

The fence faces are HDPE plastic. I'm not sure if it can be jointed or not.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

wfs said:


> interesting to know all this.
> 
> is the fence face made from polytetrafluoroethylene (*PTFE*)?
> 
> ...


I've read of others flattening that type of face with a light pass on the jointer or thickness planer with a planer sled. 

Most of the Biese clone type fences have a part that dangles from the handle end that goes between the cam lock device and the front rail to help distribute the pressure evenly....on occasion I've managed to flip that little leg up so that it interferes with the fence sitting on the rail properly. Worth checking...


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## RailDude (Oct 27, 2010)

Just started from square one on the readjustment. Clamped down, the fence is set to the miter slot at .000 on both ends and -.ooo5 in the middle with the face removed. I have adjusted every way I can think of and when clamping the fence down it pulls .060 to the right at the back of the saw table. It doesnt pull as much at the front, but it does pull somewhat.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

The plastic pads on the rear set screws pull against the back of the rail when you lock it down. The pads need to be pulled against the rail evenly. If the back of the fence is moving right when clamped that tells me the left pad has more pressure on it than the right when you clamp it down. The right set screw needs to be tightened just a touch more or the left needs to be backed off a touch. I had to play around with mine because I started messing with it right out of the box instead of waiting till I checked the blade alignment. Its a good fence, just needs some tweaking. I cant comment on the face material because mine is only out .002 which is acceptible to me. I have read of others complaining about it being a bit wavy though.


wfs....we have kinda jacked your thread. Sorry.


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## dejones (Oct 15, 2010)

np with stating the obvious - I miss stuff like that all the time, but not this time, so I did adjust those set screws and all the others to no avail. If you look closely at the drawing, you will notice that the sides of the part that glides along the rail are exactly parallel ( and so are square to the top face). That is not the case on mine and, as mentioned originally, and the amount the sides are off differs from the right side of the fence to the left side. It is just visible to the eye, but very clear when measured with calipers. It seems that the sets screws you refer to knotscott should do the trick but try as I did, the movement remained.

I called Grizzly today and they are investigating this. I am waiting for a callback.


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## RailDude (Oct 27, 2010)

I called Grizzly today as well. They said was unacceptable and would work out a solution, and supposed to call me back. I tried every which way of adjustment. Even with the set screws removed it still did the same thing. 


wfs....my apologies also, was not my intention to hijack your thread.


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

no problem guys - i dont really consider it hijacking - these are all things i want to know about the saw - also whether or not grizzly helps correct any issues - i am fine with buying a good saw that might have some minor issues, as long as the company i buy it from dosen't have issues with the issues <----me trying to be funny

so let me know what grizz does to correct any problems you guys might have - 

Thanx


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## rfmodeler (Mar 14, 2011)

I just got this saw last week. I am new to this forum and to woodworking and this is my first non hand-me-down woodworking tool. 

Out of the box the fence moved to the right when clamped about a quarter inch in the rear, but I tightened the right rear set screw and loosened the front right set screw and was able to correct the problem. The fence face was also not exactly at a 90 degree angle to the table, but I was able to fix that with the top set screws. I adjusted the fence to be level with the back fence set screw, but the PTFE faces are a little wavy (up and down). Not really a big deal, but I'm going to try and correct that with the screws that hold it on when I get some time. I don't have a dial gauge and have been aligning everything with a steel ruler, but so far so good. I have made a few identical rip cuts in some Red Oak and I can't notice a difference in the two ripped pieces. I imagine a dial gauge will speed up the process as I spent a good 2-3 hours getting the blade and fence aligned.

I am very happy so far with the saw and didn't have any trouble even as a newbie. I probably just take a bit more time during setup than someone with more TS experience. I do recommend getting help if you are moving this saw. I put this in my basement and I should have had help. Luckily I didn't get hurt or hurt the saw. Overall I'm very happy with my purchase. I won't write a formal review because I don't have much experience with other TS but feel free to ask me any questions.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

*Shhhhhhhhhh...*

these videos should help you guys a ton! even helped with my crappy TS...the Q&A is a good read too:

part 1:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-55-tablesaw-setuptuneup-pt-1/

part 2:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-56-tablesaw-setuptuneup-pt-2/

this is a great Q&A:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/table-saw-tuning/

heres a dvd if anyone is interested:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-course-on-tablesaw-safety-and-setup/

i know ill be referencing back to these when i get my new saw...if ever :furious:.


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## cjward (Feb 15, 2011)

Bassblaster, what is the nickel test?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

CJ - The "nickel test" is an exercise you can perform by standing a nickel on edge on your table saw top, then starting, running, and stopping the saw. Supposedly, if the nickel remains standing throughout the cycle it passes the test. However, it's really more for fun and is not a very controlled experiment, so it really only proves that you have a nickel! Nickels can vary a lot in width and flatness, wind currents from the blade can knock the nickel over, and some motors are more prone to a minor shudder at start up, shut down, or both, and it doesn't effect the running performance of the saw in any way. 

The important thing is that your saw runs and cuts smoothly during operation.


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## cjward (Feb 15, 2011)

You should put that on wikipedia!


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## chnmxc (Jun 22, 2010)

This table saw was made in china, and in china, it has another name "kk-10"


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Big Michael said:


> This table saw was made in china, and in china, it has another name "kk-10"


Most saws on the market today are made in China or Taiwan along with most other power tools. Whats your point?

Ive also searched all over Google and cant find a single reference with kk-10 and table saw so what does that suppose to mean?


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## rfmodeler (Mar 14, 2011)

Big Michael said:


> This table saw was made in china, and in china, it has another name "kk-10"


So is it cheaper to order the kk-10 from China?


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

rfmodeler said:


> So is it cheaper to order the kk-10 from China?


 I have no clue what the heck he is even talking about. I spent an hour searching for "kk-10" and it has nothing to do with any table saw that I can find. Maybe that was suppose to be some kinda joke that no one gets, I dunno.


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## chnmxc (Jun 22, 2010)

rfmodeler said:


> So is it cheaper to order the kk-10 from China?


This table saw was sold in china named kk-10, but the price is about out 920 usd$.it is not a joke,because i am a wood fan of china, so i have some information about this saw


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## chnmxc (Jun 22, 2010)

*table saw kk-10*



rfmodeler said:


> So is it cheaper to order the kk-10 from China?


This table saw was sold in china named kk-10, but the price is about 920 usd$.it is not a joke,because i am a wood fan of china, so i have some information about this saw


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## dejones (Oct 15, 2010)

*Grizzly did right by me*

RE the problem I have with my fence that I posted about earlier: I sent side views of both sides of the fence base to grizzly and they agreed that it is faulty. They will send me a new one when the parts come in. It is the right thing to do & they are doing it. That bought them a lot of brand loyalty from me.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

*what's your time worth?*



dejones said:


> RE the problem I have with my fence that I posted about earlier: I sent side views of both sides of the fence base to grizzly and they agreed that it is faulty. They will send me a new one when the parts come in. It is the right thing to do & they are doing it. That bought them a lot of brand loyalty from me.


you got an ETA on that?they should compensate you in another way as well for your time loss. it could be weeks for that part to come in right? even over a month?!?!
that's amazing they are taking care of THAT problem...now what about your time?
it's something my old boss said to me that stuck with me..."what's your time worth?"
just thought id share.
from what i see and hear (and used), grizzley seems to be a stand-up company :thumbsup:


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## dejones (Oct 15, 2010)

Hi 516,

I do not have an eta (they did not supply one and I failed to ask them about it). I expect it will be a month though. In regards to compensation, do companies ever compensate people for lost income if their product is faulty? In my case though, I have not really lost anything. I'm a hobbyist.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

dejones said:


> Hi 516,
> 
> I do not have an eta (they did not supply one and I failed to ask them about it). I expect it will be a month though. In regards to compensation, do companies ever compensate people for lost income if their product is faulty? In my case though, I have not really lost anything. I'm a hobbyist.


They might offer some token....it's worth asking. My Shop Fox fence had a broken screw on one of the faces when I got it, so the face was loose in that spot. The fix was either a new fence or for me to fix it....a new fence seemed excessive and expensive for them and ultimately, all their customers (which includes me), so I fixed it. They sent me a free saw blade as compensation...it was a modest blade but it seemed fair, and was a nice gesture.


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## RailDude (Oct 27, 2010)

Glad to see Grizzly is going to make good on your fence. Not sure if I will be as fortunate, but we will see. The guy on the phone at customer service agreed that the problem was unacceptable and should not be such a PITA to use. However, the callback never came. After 10 days I emailed to find out why and was given an apology. I was also told that they had no record of any other fence problems regarding this saw. Then after a few email exchanges, I started feeling I was getting the brushoff. The only thing they would say is that they would give it to quality control to try and prevent any further problems or issues. I sent them a picture of the cam face on the clamp arm. One extreme side of it is worn into the metal and the paint on the other side is not even worn. The brackets it bolts to are not welded square and it causes it to pull when clamped down. Last word was he would present the picture and problem to someone higher up and try to resolve the issue.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

dejones said:


> Hi 516,
> 
> I do not have an eta (they did not supply one and I failed to ask them about it). I expect it will be a month though. In regards to compensation, do companies ever compensate people for lost income if their product is faulty? In my case though, I have not really lost anything. I'm a hobbyist.


well i meant something like what knotscott said. like a free blade, push sticks, $25 gift cert or something. def ask them! i work for a phone company and when someone asks for something (due to a prob on our end) we usually do what we can to take care of them! won't hurt to ask!

RAILDUDE - keep on them...if you stop calling or trying to get them, why would they bother trying to contact you? you should def get some comp for getting the runaround and the brush-off. how does one person get immediate action and then you get the guy who doesnt feel like doing his job that day. maybe i'll go get a job with grizzly and actually do my job! good luck dude!!!


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## RailDude (Oct 27, 2010)

Sent some pics to Grizzly a week or so ago for review. Wasn't sure if they would do anything or not. But when I got in from work yesterday there was an email from them stating that my order had shipped. When I opened the email the order was for a rip fence. Sure enough....the UPS website has it enroute scheduled for tuesday delivery. This was my first big (to me anyway) purchase from Grizzly and am pleased that they did the right thing by the customer. Sadly...in this day and age of greedy, bean counting pinheads running companies and pinching pennies at the customers expense, it seem that one can expect the worse. Its good to see a company like Grizzly go the extra mile to take care of a customer. Though it did take a bit of time, they are doing right by me and this customer will be back.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

*Yay!...*

glad to hear it my man!!!
OK! start cuttin it up! :yes::thumbsup:


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## wiz561 (Mar 20, 2011)

Besides the fence problem, do you have any opinions on the saw? I'm thinking of a new table saw to replace a portable one I currently have. It seems like a Grizzly offers good prices, quality equipment, and good service. Also, are you using 220 or 110?


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## RailDude (Oct 27, 2010)

Keep in mind that I am just a hobbyist woodworker and by no means a professional. But so far I am very impressed with the saw. The fence issue I might could have worked around but was a PITA to do so for every cut. It was packed very well from the factory and the manual is top notch. Assembly and setup were also easy enough. The motor comes wired for 220, but can be changed to 110. My utility room is behind an adjacent wall so I made a 220v extension cord and use the dryer plug. There is an access door at the back under the edge of the table that makes trunnion adjustment quite accessible and was not difficult at all. Per the recommendations of guys here, I purchased a few good blades (which are very easy to change) and the saw thus far has done everything asked of it without slowing down or breaking a sweat. Many recommended to get the 3 hp cabinet saw and more hours were spent than I could count mulling over the decision. Time will tell if I should have or not but is doubtful I will ever be ripping or cutting anything that the 2 hp cant handle. And with the money saved I was able to get some good blades and an Incra 1000HD (119.00 on Amazon) miter gauge. I am happy with the saw and impressed with Grizzly as a company. It seems that they actually want the customer to be pleased even after they get your money, a rarity these days.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

RailDude said:


> It seems that they actually want the customer to be pleased even after they get your money, a rarity these days.


INDEED...especially when theres company's out there like the thieves i work for...crooks!

if i cant afford a sawstop soon, grizzly is my 2nd choice!!!


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## wiz561 (Mar 20, 2011)

Thanks for the info. I have been thinking about this and I think I'm in the same boat FiveOneSix is. 

I'm pretty sure that I will start saving up for a sawstop. My wife gave me the green light for it, and I've decided that my fingers are rather important, as most of my job requires typing on keyboards. It's hard shelling the extra money out for something, knowing I can buy something cheaper that does the same thing. But as I'm getting older, I'm starting to realize that there's another variable in the equation; safety. 

Another plus for the sawstop is that what I read, it is a well-built saw and I haven't really read a bad review about it yet. I'm not trying to say that the G0715P is junk by any means. I would have bought one because it's priced right, many people love it (besides the minor fence issue), and you get a lot of bang for your buck. It's just that I get nervous about the TS and being self-taught, you try to be as safe as you can, but accidents do happen.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

*cha-ching...*

Coooome ooooon mega millions!!!


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