# What's the best bit for drilling holes in tight space?



## doubledown (Nov 19, 2012)

*What's the best method for drilling 1" holes in tight bookshelf corners?*

I'm needing to drill holes in the front corners of a bookshelf/wall unit to route wires and led strips through. I'm guessing I need 1" holes to do the trick. The holes should be as tight up in the front corners as possible as to stay out of sight. I may not even be able to get the drill and bit totally perpendicular to the shelf. My skill level is newbie. I did a little searching and it looks like I may want a paddle bit or forstner bit. Any advice appreciated.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

doubledown said:


> I'm needing to drill holes in the front corners of a bookshelf/wall unit to route wires and led strips through. I'm guessing I need 1" holes to do the trick. The holes should be as tight up in the front corners as possible as to stay out of sight. I may not even be able to get the drill and bit totally perpendicular to the shelf. My skill level is newbie. I did a little searching and it looks like I may want a paddle bit or forstner bit. Any advice appreciated.


Something like this may help.:smile:
Amazon.com: Milescraft 1390 Drill90 Right Angle Drilling and Driving Power Drill Attachment: Home Improvement


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## doubledown (Nov 19, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Something like this may help.:smile:
> Amazon.com: Milescraft 1390 Drill90 Right Angle Drilling and Driving Power Drill Attachment: Home Improvement


Thanks for the suggestion John. I do think I will pick one up at lowes as well as a forstner bit and see if I can get the job done without any irreparible damage.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I would use a hole saw*

They are pretty short in length and are more controllable than a paddle or spade bit. Like these:
Black & Decker 71-120 5-Piece Hole Saw Assortment - Amazon.com


The hole saw has a short1/4" pilot bit. Once you locate where the hole can be, you can drill a 1/4" hole all the way through with a longer bit. Then you can saw/drill from both sides to prevent tear out.

The right angle attachment may not be necessary if you can use a short bodied power drill. You will be the best judge of what will fit within the space limitations.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

As short as a hole saw is, would require the drill body, even the right angle accessory to be too close to the vertical parts. The angle would likely be too severe. The longer the distance from the drill to the cutting edge of the bit will give the least cutting angle.

I would use a right angle accessory and either a paddle bit (spade...AKA wood boring bit), or a Forstner bit. The Forstner would likely give the smoothest chatter free hole. Both bits will have a fairly long shank, reducing the angle needed. 

To insure a clean hole from both sides, I would back up the exit hole with a block of wood to reduce tearout. Another method would be to drill from one side until the pilot spur of the bit pokes through, and then drill from the other side.

If you have the height, a brace and bit and an auger bit might give a fairly straight hole (if you are into hand tools).









 







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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Forstner bits are hard to control with a hand drill, they may skip across the work. A paddle bit is fine, drill part way until the point sticks through then finish by coming in the other way, this will eliminate blowing out a big chunk.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Attempting to use forstner bits with a hand drill led to me getting a drill press.... I recommend the spade bit as well.


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## doubledown (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies. Good food for thought. Thought I'd post a picture of the wall unit for illustration purposes. The middle shelves are where the tight fit comes in.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

A picture is always useful.

Is there a reason you are drilling from the inside to the outside?

If you drill from the outside to the inside you will not be constrained for space. Also any "blow out" when the drill exits will be inside the cabinet.

You can also consider drilling a small hole and expanding with a file to fit the plug or strip shape. May be a smaller hole.

There are also special drill bits which cut on the side like a rasp.


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## doubledown (Nov 19, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> A picture is always useful.
> 
> Is there a reason you are drilling from the inside to the outside?
> 
> ...


Dave, thanks for the reply. I should clarify. I am going to be drilling down in the outside shelf corners to the shelf below. I will be running led tape lights as well as a speaker wire on both sides of the unit to be hidden by the trim pieces.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

doubledown said:


> Dave, thanks for the reply. I should clarify. I am going to be drilling down in the outside shelf corners to the shelf below. I will be running led tape lights as well as a speaker wire on both sides of the unit to be hidden by the trim pieces.


Good clarification.

How about this to get you closest to the corner.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-flexible-shaft-hex-bit-driver-attachment-68514.html

You will need hex shank bits.

Start with one of these.
http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-drill-bits-1800.html

This will get you up to 3/4in. Can file to get larger.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qu...r-inch-high-speed-steel-step-drill-44460.html


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