# Masonry support for mezzanine bed



## Zon (Oct 23, 2010)

Hello, I'm looking for some advice on structural support for a mezzanine/loft/sleeper/high bed - whatever you want to call it 

I've done a lot of G-searching for images and for videos on Y-Tube and seen stuff I would like to do but am apprehensive about load-bearing.

It's generally only for 1-2 adults to sleep etc. maybe also light storage.

If possible I would like to support the frame by thick timber battens on the head/foot walls. It's neater and would mean I can avoid cutting the skirting for floor support.

There are a series of pics below that I found that show this (others are for reference). I'm just a little apprehensive on how to anchor the timber to the masonry walls. Screws and rawlplugs? (And should I rout off the render to anchor more flushly to brick?)

I've been trying to get info on Strike/Lag/Wedge anchors, none of which I've used before, do not understand how far the bolt-head can be from the wall (i.e. how it can secure through a 2x2 thick timber batten). Any advice on this?

Perhaps you would recommend the wall-brackets as can be seen in the YouTube vids (links below the pics). I would need to cover these but again, screws and rawlpugs - safe?

If it's not advisable for support to come solely from wall anchorage then could I get away with floor support from just the 'foot' end / 2 legs?

Here's some pics:










Same construct:










Same construct, albeit girlified somewhat... (2 pics)










Using brackets:










Loadsa brackets!:










Youtube videos:





 - Looks like simple brackets at least one end





 - This is about the same size room as for this project. If floor support cannot be avoided, question: What has been used to fix the timber to the walls - epoxy-fixed rod bolts and nuts? How would you do this?




 - Part 2 of above vid.

Thanks for reading, viewing all this. Hopefully you can help answer my question/(s). :smile:


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## Zon (Oct 23, 2010)

I can see now that in the first pics extra support has been 'retro'-fitted one end with an extra batten and 4 pillars below. I'm not sure what's going on at the ladder-end.... Oh yes I can, that shelving unit is a purpose-built load-bearer. Nice.

Still would appreciate my questions being cleared up. And the first video still only uses brackets at least on one side. Any tips on this please....


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I do not know just what kind of brick wall you want to fasten to. Are there studs behind the brick? If so, the easiest way is just to get long lag bolts and fasten directly to the studs.

If the walls are solid birck then I would use an expansion type of anchor. See the picture beside Step 1 [url="http://www.acehardware.com/info/index.jsp?categoryId=1283458'] HERE [/url]

You need to be sure that the masonry is sound before fastening to it.

G


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## Zon (Oct 23, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> I do not know just what kind of brick wall you want to fasten to. Are there studs behind the brick? If so, the easiest way is just to get long lag bolts and fasten directly to the studs.
> 
> If the walls are solid birck then I would use an expansion type of anchor. See the picture beside Step 1  HERE
> 
> ...


UK 1939 Bungalow so solid brick. These expansion anchors (funnily I came across that page in my travels), I've never used them before - .... Ok just spoke to my builder, the only one I trust but can never get him to do any work for me, he says I CAN do it with expansion bolts just so long as I use the long wall aswell, putting 4 across that and 3 in head and foot. Explained how to install them but think he'll get another call later  Set back in that I have to chase now rather than later as I wouldn't mind spurring off the plug below for one above...

Ok, thanks GeorgeC. Inventory time now...


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

If I were doing the project... And looking at the first two pictures... And KNOWING how hard it is to drill into brick. And not wanting to take any chance destroying the weather integrity of the wall...

I would build the vertical supports using a 4x4 at each corner, then a horizontal 4x4 parallel to the wall and "rafters" between the 4x4s. The rafters would be a snug fit between the walls. A simple set of braces at 45° to prevent the 4x4 from folding or collapsing would make the bed secure. It may be necessary to use right angle braces to secure the vertical legs to the floor to prevent the possibility of the bed tipping over.

In effect you are building a floor supported by walls on each end. The only difference between the bed and the floor is that the bed will have a lower static load placed upon it.


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## woodmeistro (Jul 9, 2010)

yOU COULD USE SOME EXPANSION ANCHORE BOLTS OR WEDGE ANCHORS, 3/8'' OR 1/2'' EVERY 12''. yOU WILL NEED TO BARROW OR RENT a hammer drill to drill into concrete block which is probably hollow, you will need an anchor bolt that is long enough to go through the material you are anchoring to the wall and give you atleast 2-3 inches or penitration into the block. Another Idea is the anchor a peice of 3x3 angle iron.


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## Zon (Oct 23, 2010)

Hi, I do apologise for not posting my results sooner but for the object of concluding this thread and for the benefit of others here are some photos:


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