# older model craftsman contractor series



## bmorris85 (Apr 3, 2014)

I bought this saw about three weeks ago as a fixer upper. And fix up I did. Turned a 100 dollar saw into a 350 dollar saw with about 40 bucks. (Muratic acid 20/1 water mix by the way will solve some big problems involving a rusty cast iron table top) BUT after the transfermation I noticed THE 3HP MOTOR I thought came with it had been replaced by a 1 1/2 hp motor. My heart nearly dropped. Soooo now I'm trying to find the manual so I can find the specs on it, and I can't seem to find it. Does anyone know were to find this thing???


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*that 3 Hp was a lie*

There was a HP race back then and everyone claimed more than they actually produced. Just need to look at the current draw on the motor and at what voltage for the specs. No motor made has 3 Hp and runs on 120 volts. 

Regardless, your 1 1/2 Hp motor will be just fine, and that's probably identical to what was on it originally. If the current draw is 18 AMPs at 120 volts you got a real one. If it's less, then probably a 1HP or so. I had a 1 HP Craftsman contractor saw for 40 years and it was just fine.

Got any restoration photos? :blink:


----------



## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Fret not, 3 Craftsman horsies are 1.5 *real world* horsies. Craftsman likes to boast about it's "Maximum Developed" horsepower, while the rest of the world focuses on continuous duty. They figure a motor with no load has double the continuous duty horsepower for brief periods. It's just marketing nonsense. If you got a 1.5HP motor, you got just about the same thing everyone else got on their contractor saw, regardless of brand. Now, if it says it's 1.5 "Maximum Developed", then you may indeed have a smaller motor. I highly doubt it, but if that's the case you may only have a 3/4 horse motor. An easy thing to check it the current or amps rating on the motor. If it's about 13-15 amps, you probably have a 1.5HP motor.


----------



## bmorris85 (Apr 3, 2014)

Awesome info gents thank you. The only thing that gets me is on the front it says 3hp maximum developed. But when I get off work I'll check the amps and get back with you guys. And I will upload restoration pics soon. Anywhere I can look for the manual???


----------



## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Eh, there's really not much in the manual worth looking at. If you really want one, just google the model number. "113.***xx manual". Should come up with a PDF, and some a$$hat on ebay trying to sell one he printed off online.


----------



## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Just for the sake of anyone else coming across this thread, I'll repeat the sentiment I've been reading on various pages over the last few minutes: "Don't use muriatic [acid] on cast iron...period. If you soak a cast iron part for a while, it will look like the moon...only the craters will be deeper"

When I came across this thread and saw a new method for rust removal I got excited. About a year ago, I restored an old Craftsman contractor saw, as well. I used many methods, but came to the conclusion that sanding is by far the fastest "safe" method. A year later, I'm starting another Craftsman restore project on another saw, and I've gotten quite far with just sanding. Anything additional I do to this "new" saw will be purely cosmetic, since I believe the top is ready for wood as it is. I know if I get it where I want by more sanding, I'm still looking at another 45 minutes to an hour and a half of hand-sanding, since I don't believe in using random orbit or belt sanders on tool tops. I figure anything additional will be getting rid of stains, and that could very well be the job of an undecided chemical. What I've read about muriatic acid and cast iron is that it's actually a *rust accelerator*! I am certainly no chemist, but that doesn't sound good. Apparently, once cast iron is exposed to muriatic acid, it's difficult to stop the chemical reaction that causes it to eat and accelerate the oxidation process. Baking soda can help balance the ph, but it's hard to get it in there in those tiny pores and neutralize it. 

So, muriatic acid is fast and easy, but it's constantly destroying the metal, as we speak. For your particular saw, I would try as hard as possible to neutralize that acid, then get some protection on that iron. Boeshield T-9 is a good start, or I use GlideCote. These are both spray-on products that have both sealant and lubrication properties.


----------



## bmorris85 (Apr 3, 2014)

I did my research aswell and after reading all I saw were to set backs which you stated. 1) rust accelerator 2) neutralization. So to help others this is what I did. And I incourage you to try the same on a seperate piece of cast iron and see for yourself. 

First off I used a surface cleaner commonly used for auto body to clean the surface. Let dry. Then I mixed a 20/1 water- muratic acid solution. 
(Importantant) +muratic acid is a corrosive so clear area of anything that you don't want chewed up+
Then I poured the solution on the surface of the table and let set for about 2 mins. Then I used a garden hose and a rubber glove to wipe away all rust and contaminace. Let hose run over table for five minutes wiping with glove. Then when all solution is gone I used methenol to wipe table (methenal and water don't get along) methenol crumps water. Methenal can be found in the prouduct called "heet" used for frozen gas lines. Then after that I again used serface cleaner to get down to bear cast iron. Immediately after drying I applied liberally wd40 all over table top and let set in my garage over night. Next I wiped excess wd off and applied carnuba wax to treat table. 

Hoped that helped someone. Very easy process and I encourage you to try the same on a rusty old piece of cast iron first.


----------



## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

There do seem to be quite a few people enthusiastic about using muriatic acid on cast iron. Personally, after having read what I've read, I can't see myself using it. It's not a self-limiting process, and you can't be sure the acid is fully neutralized. I guess we'll see in a year or so how your top is doing. I'd rather just take a little bit of extra time now, and know my saw isn't slowly dissolving in the shop!


----------



## bmorris85 (Apr 3, 2014)

I'm assuming a six dollar roll of ph paper would do a pretty good job of assureing you that your surface has been nuetralzed


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The stock motor would have been 13 or 14 amps at 110v, and should be rated for 1.5hp. The "3hp" sticker on the front is wishful thinking....marketing horsepower vs engineering horsepower! :laughing: Nonetheless, with good alignment and good blade selection, these can be very good saws with enough power to cut the vast majority of what you're likely to throw at it. 

Got pics? :yes:


----------



## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

bmorris85 said:


> I'm assuming a six dollar roll of ph paper would do a pretty good job of assureing you that your surface has been nuetralzed


Since cast iron is porous, rust makes those pores deeper, and the muriatic acid isn't reachable by the ph paper, no.


----------



## bmorris85 (Apr 3, 2014)




----------



## bmorris85 (Apr 3, 2014)

Pics you wanted people. And again thanks for the help.


----------



## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Looks brand new! Congrats!


----------



## pweller (Mar 10, 2014)

The biggest overstated HP laugh-riot can be found in shop-vacs. I've got a Ridgid vac, rated at 6.0 peak HP! Of course, it plugs into a standard 15A outlet.

Just look at the current draw, and ignore the marketing claims. Better yet, just see how well it cuts/works for you. That's how you know if it's got enough power.


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

The horse power numbers were just like the output wattage rating of amplifiers before the FTC stepped into the fray.

The first guy said, this is the watts that comes out.
The next guy said, this is the watts input to the final output stage.
The next guy said, this is the watts input from the pre-final output, plus the watts input to the final output stage plus the watts actually output. 

etc.

Usually the Horse Power of a universal motor is calculated by voltage and maximum current draw. Unfortunately maximum current draw is with a seized shaft and about 1/4 second before the motor explodes in smoke.

The Horse Power in induction motors are usually calculated during sustained operation and doing work. 

In other words it is a smoke dream vs. reality. :laughing:

BTW - Watts are calculated as amperes times voltage.
BTW2 - HP is calculated as Watts divided by 546.


----------



## BaldEagle2012 (Jan 25, 2012)

I have the exact same saw. I got mine new in 1995, and still has the same motor. I replaced the original belt three years ago, and replaced the fence system with an INCRA fence this past summer. You should get good service from it. I would suggest a thorough tune-up, and be sure to check the blade-to-miter slot alignment. I have had to adjust mine, just sayin.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

rrich said:


> ...
> BTW - Watts are calculated as amperes times voltage.
> BTW2 - HP is calculated as Watts divided by 546.



Do you mean "BTW2 - HP is calculated as Watts divided by *746*"?

The saw looks great!


----------

