# How drill straight dowel holes?



## Bluefilosoff (Mar 25, 2013)

I am trying to drill one inch diameter holes into the ends of the vertical pieces for a trestle leg assembly but I am having a very difficult time getting the holes straight 90 degrees? I am using a benchtop drill press which I twisted around to get clearance but it is clearly not up to the task. The Forstner bit is having a difficult time drilling into the end grain and keeps going askew so I can't get the holes straight.
Is there a self centering jig available for drilling large dowel holes like this? 
Alternatively is there someone on this wonderful site who has already designed something like this at home? I have a feeling there is.
Please and thanks.
See the diagrams.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I do not understand why a SHARP forstner bit would not do the job. That is what I would use. 

You sure it is the bit that is the problem and not the drill press?

George


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

Are you clamping the boards in place?


Also I see you have a through mortise an tenon on your sketch, if your ability allows you to do that, have you considered doing mortise and tenon joints instead of dowels? Or maybe bridal joints


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

Just a newbie here but I think the 90 is tough because there are so many spots in your drill setup that can go askew that it's tough to get a good 90 reference on all of them (the drill press table and floor and the block/piece of wood and floor). For drilling into long pieces I've seen people put the drill press on its side and tilt the table 90 degrees. Then you only have to get a parallel reference between table and bit which might be easier.


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## fire65 (Apr 27, 2013)

They covered it. Drill press set up properly, fence set up, clamp the board and a good bit, preferably a forster.


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## Bluefilosoff (Mar 25, 2013)

Got it figured out. I had not clamped the work piece to the drill table to integrate the whole process so was basically pushing with no backing. Doh! Hey I am learning but very slowly. The mortise will be a tusk with a counterbore key to join the stretcher to the verticals. I did consider mortise and tenon for the Trestle pieces however this is a first effort and I am working with a limited amount of material which has been salvaged so did not feel confident enough to try those types of joints yet. Next table will get the full M and T treatment. Thanks all.

Additionally, I kind of was trying to do ersatz Dominos. Would that be strong enough? Now I am having second thoughts, and on and on, it never ends. Ha ha.


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