# A few more pistol cases



## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

Been making some more pistol cases. 
Walnut, birdseye maple, oak, african mahogany, pine, and spalted something.


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## Art Rafael (Apr 17, 2013)

WOW! Very nice. Ralph


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Sweet job. Looks great!!!


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## SgtSteve (Sep 12, 2012)

Very nice work.


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## TMH (Nov 6, 2012)

Nice!!


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## bigcouger (Jan 4, 2012)

Nice :thumbsup: :thumbsup::thumbsup: but P


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Very nice work.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

Those are nice and would be GREAT for someone looking for a 'display' type case for an antique or 'collectors' firearm that never got moved from the showroom or taken anywhere. 

GREAT work! :yes:



My honest advice here: 

Shape reminds me of a coffin and NOT a gun case... (you also sacrifice 'room' with that shape and have no space left for extra mags, cleaning kits, or other 'stuff' that may have came with the 'collector' firearm)

Need some sort of padding on top to protect stuff like 'nice' wood grips on an expensive piece. (wood rubbing on wood would not do so well in MY opinion - Something WILL get marred up if it is moved around any) 

You might get more sales if the cases were built so that the gun could be easily 'transported' in them... You would need some sort of latch (or preferrably a locking latch) for the lid so it could be securely closed and some sort of handle to carry the case by... You also get more sales if the buyer is taking your cases places with him and SHOWING OFF your work... :yes: Not so easy to do with no latch and no handle... :no:


Those would be great for a museum but an average 'collector' would not take his gun 'out' anywhere in those and be getting you MORE sales in MY opinion.

I freaking HATE the chinese garbage cases that some of the higher end manufacturers dole out nowadays... Was NOT like that 10 or 20 years ago when you bought a 'nice' gun. :no:


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

bigcouger said:


> Nice :thumbsup: :thumbsup::thumbsup: but P


You mean pine?? yeah... I know.... I had a vision of the old pine box


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Shape reminds me of a coffin and NOT a gun case... (you also sacrifice 'room' with that shape and have no space left for extra mags, cleaning kits, or other 'stuff' that may have came with the 'collector' firearm)
> Need some sort of padding on top to protect stuff like 'nice' wood grips on an expensive piece. (wood rubbing on wood would not do so well in MY opinion - Something WILL get marred up if it is moved around any)
> You might get more sales if the cases were built so that the gun could be easily 'transported' in them... You would need some sort of latch (or preferrably a locking latch) for the lid so it could be securely closed and some sort of handle to carry the case by... You also get more sales if the buyer is taking your cases places with him and SHOWING OFF your work... :yes: Not so easy to do with no latch and no handle... :no:
> Those would be great for a museum but an average 'collector' would not take his gun 'out' anywhere in those and be getting you MORE sales in MY opinion.
> I freaking HATE the chinese garbage cases that some of the higher end manufacturers dole out nowadays... Was NOT like that 10 or 20 years ago when you bought a 'nice' gun. :no:


Thank you for your opinion. I am always open to constructive input. As for the shape, it is supposed to look like a coffin. That's part of the uniqueness (if that's a word).

I am trying to find a suitable latch, but all I have been able to find are those hasp types and the ones that look nice are very flimsy. Thinking about a magnet type. 

I agree about the padding on the top. 

Thanks again for the input.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Thank you for your opinion. I am always open to constructive input. As for the shape, it is supposed to look like a coffin. That's part of the uniqueness (if that's a word).
> 
> I am trying to find a suitable latch, but all I have been able to find are those hasp types and the ones that look nice are very flimsy. Thinking about a magnet type.
> 
> ...


 
Was only trying to help. Glad you saw it that way... :yes:

Rockler has some good offerings for specialty latches and such (expensive but good selection and quality).



I would not skimp on the 'details' like latches and such for pieces of woodworking like you made here. You made works of ART and they deserve the best.

There are plently of people that will PAY for that... :yes:

People that can't afford your work (and SKILL) need to go shop at Walmart and get what they pay for... :thumbsup:


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Thank you for your opinion. I am always open to constructive input. As for the shape, it is supposed to look like a coffin. That's part of the uniqueness (if that's a word).
> 
> I am trying to find a suitable latch, but all I have been able to find are those hasp types and the ones that look nice are very flimsy. Thinking about a magnet type.
> 
> ...


Personally I would never use any case. My case is one of 3 holsters depending on how I'm carrying for the day. 

However, I really like these cases and think you could find a market for them. As for a latch I would look into the key locks like for tool boxes etc. It takes care of any travel and security issues. 

Here's a link to the type locks I'm referring to.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

those are some beautiful gun cases:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## BigBull (Feb 10, 2010)

I think they look great. If i didn't know how to make things like that I would absoultly buy one of them. Oh and I think I'd go with the magnet type latch, maybe a small but strong natural earth magnet.

Keep up the good work.


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## Midwest Millworks (Nov 20, 2012)

Very nice. I love 1911's. That's what I carry everyday also. 

Mike Darr


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Nice...What exactly do you use under the velvet?


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

burkhome said:


> Nice...What exactly do you use under the velvet?


On those I used 2 pieces of 1" memory foam. I cut the gun outline in one piece, glued the two pieces together, and wrapped with velvet or suede cloth. For me, doing the inside is the hardest part. I am not really satisfied with the look. I need a firmer foam I think.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Beautiful work...beautiful cases!!!
I build briefcase style pistol boxes, and use the 1/8" dual density product similar to the dual density one seen HERE in the bottom of the case and 1" medium density foam over that to encase or "French fit" the pistol.
I found both at a large automotive upholstery shop.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> On those I used 2 pieces of 1" memory foam. I cut the gun outline in one piece, glued the two pieces together, and wrapped with velvet or suede cloth. For me, doing the inside is the hardest part. I am not really satisfied with the look. I need a firmer foam I think.


 Thanks...I've been researching linings for a rifle presentation case that I have planned. To date I haven't found anything that satisfies me. Your cases are very nice...by the way.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Gene Howe said:


> Beautiful work...beautiful cases!!!
> I build briefcase style pistol boxes, and use the 1/8" dual density product similar to the dual density one seen HERE in the bottom of the case and 1" medium density foam over that to encase or "French fit" the pistol.
> I found both at a large automotive upholstery shop.


 Do you have pics of your finished product?


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

burkhome said:


> Do you have pics of your finished product?


I only have a pic of the last one I made. The customer uses it to carry a wide array of pistols so It's not French fitted. It only has the 1" medium density foam. the other pics are of a box for a Glock that uses the foam like I mentioned. The briefcase foam is covered with denim. The foam in the Glock Box is covered with dyed leather.

Briefcase















Glock Box


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

Gene, those are great looking boxes. Love the turquoise. How did you affix the denim or leather to the foam? Also, I am having trouble getting the material to conform to the inside of the cutout and then lay out flat on the non-cutout area.


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

Very nice cases. Have you ever considered doing a glass top, so that folks can see the pistol without opening the box. I agree that for functional/regularly used pistols cases may not be as "necessary" but I do have a few older pistols that belonged to my grandfather and great-grandfather that are no longer used and merely kept as keepsakes, thinking of putting one of them in a box like this is what got me thinking about the advantage of a glass top.


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

craigwbryant said:


> Very nice cases. Have you ever considered doing a glass top, so that folks can see the pistol without opening the box. I agree that for functional/regularly used pistols cases may not be as "necessary" but I do have a few older pistols that belonged to my grandfather and great-grandfather that are no longer used and merely kept as keepsakes, thinking of putting one of them in a box like this is what got me thinking about the advantage of a glass top.


Thanks for the comments. It's keepsake pistols like you describe is what I had in mind when I started making these. Yes, I have thought of a glass cutout. As a matter of fact, I am trying to figure out how to do that. I am just a woodworking hack but no doubt it would be easy for some of the real pro's on here.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Mr. Jones, ("Sorrowful" takes too long to type):laughing:
Thanks for the compliment.
For the briefcases, the wife wraps the 1" foam in her quilt backing then sews the denim around the foam. It's a press fit on this one. On others I use strategically placed sticky back Velcro to hold it in the lid. 
To french fit, I first cut out the out line of the piece in 1/4" ply. I use this to cut the foam. Then the leather (if leather is used) is soaked in softened water (calgon or Downy) then the gun is wrapped in Saran wrap and pushed into the leather that has has been lain over the plywood cut out. I let it dry over night. Then the leather is glued down to the plywood and both are inserted into dados in the box sides before it's glued up. The 1" foam goes in under the ply wood so the gun rests on velvet covered foam. Or if the customer desires, I use hardwood ply only and still cover the foam under it with velvet. 
If I need to cover the plywood cut out with cloth, I cut it and install it on the plywood with the 1/8" dual density foam glued on, first. I only glue the cloth on the underside of the plywood.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Gene Howe said:


> Mr. Jones, ("Sorrowful" takes too long to type):laughing:
> Thanks for the compliment.
> For the briefcases, the wife wraps the 1" foam in her quilt backing then sews the denim around the foam. It's a press fit on this one. On others I use strategically placed sticky back Velcro to hold it in the lid.
> To french fit, I first cut out the out line of the piece in 1/4" ply. I use this to cut the foam. Then the leather (if leather is used) is soaked in softened water (calgon or Downy) then the gun is wrapped in Saran wrap and pushed into the leather that has has been lain over the plywood cut out. I let it dry over night. Then the leather is glued down to the plywood and both are inserted into dados in the box sides before it's glued up. The 1" foam goes in under the ply wood so the gun rests on velvet covered foam. Or if the customer desires, I use hardwood ply only and still cover the foam under it with velvet.
> If I need to cover the plywood cut out with cloth, I cut it and install it on the plywood with the 1/8" dual density foam glued on, first. I only glue the cloth on the underside of the plywood.


 Thanks for your explanation. I am having trouble comprehending some of what you say. If you ever see fit to put your words into pictures, I would be the first to study them. Thanks again...your cases are beautiful by the way.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Roger, I'm not too good at step by step instructional writing. And that's being generous!
Sorry, no pics available, but I will try to answer any questions.


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Thanks for the comments. It's keepsake pistols like you describe is what I had in mind when I started making these. Yes, I have thought of a glass cutout. As a matter of fact, I am trying to figure out how to do that. I am just a woodworking hack but no doubt it would be easy for some of the real pro's on here.


Cool, I'll admit, I'm kind of intimidated by working with glass myself. Besides the difficulty in finding it and having it cut for you, there's also the worry (at least for me) that my less than delicate touch in the shop would result in lost of broken glass and wasted money!


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## lilman (Nov 22, 2012)

Ever since I saw a previous post of your cases, I've wanted to do something similar. I have a friend that owns a tattoo shop and I think he'd love something like this to hold some of his tattoo guns. Actually have saved a few pieces of foam from lab equipment packing for this. 

Ill also mention magnets for a latch. I questioned the strength of earth magnets until recently, can be super strong for the small size.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Working with glass isn't as hard as it seems. I've found that local framing shops not only have plenty of it in stock at varied prices depending on the type of glass desired, but they will cut it to any size or shape you want. Many of them will cut it while you wait if they are not busy the day you walk in and want it. Just provide them with a drawing or template of what you need, select the type of glass, and walk out with a piece ready to be installed.

Mounting it can be done in several ways. A dab of silicone in each corner or, separate strips cut and screwed (or glued with epoxy) in behind the glass to hold it or, picture frame staples. Even brads will work but they will show badly in something like your cases.

I suggest wearing linen gloves when mounting the glass to prevent finger prints.

The biggest thing to remember is that the case needs to be completely finished before mounting the glass so that the finish is all around the glass instead of all over it. :laughing:


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

craigwbryant said:


> Cool, I'll admit, I'm kind of intimidated by working with glass myself. Besides the difficulty in finding it and having it cut for you, there's also the worry (at least for me) that my less than delicate touch in the shop would result in lost of broken glass and wasted money!


I can cut glass ok..... it's the wood I have problems with :laughing:

I want to have a "window" that is the same shape of the box, following the outline of the top, about 1 1/2" from the edge. I cant get a bandsaw in there, so it's either a jig saw (which I am not too good at using), or perhaps using a spiral cutting bit on my router table. 
Getting the opening cut is one thing, but having a lip for the glass to rest on is something else. I can cut some small pieces of trim to secure the glass once it is in place.

Here is a small picture frame that sorta shows what I would like to achieve


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Have you thought about making the lids from several pieces rather than a single piece? Or, maybe book matching the lid from two pieces and cutting the window and dado from them both before glue up? Either of those methods would work and look good at the same time. Book matched would keep all the grain going the same direction if that is what you want rather than having the grain going in different directions.

Routing the dado would be easy with a template to guide the bit or with a rabbiting bit. Either way all you'd need is some corner clean up with a chisel.


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

johnnie52 said:


> Have you thought about making the lids from several pieces rather than a single piece? Or, maybe book matching the lid from two pieces and cutting the window and dado from them both before glue up? Either of those methods would work and look good at the same time. Book matched would keep all the grain going the same direction if that is what you want rather than having the grain going in different directions.
> Routing the dado would be easy with a template to guide the bit or with a rabbiting bit. Either way all you'd need is some corner clean up with a chisel.


Thanks Johnnie. That is a good idea. I was playing around this afternoon and came up with this (pics). I used a scroll saw to cut out the window. Rounded it over from the top on the router table, then used a rabbiting bit for the underside lip. Maybe I can clean up the corners with a chisel, cut some molding for the glass.


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## Reclaimed Wood Blog (May 28, 2013)

Nice work...

http://reclaimedwoodblog.com/


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Very nice, SJ.
Have you considered 1/8" Lexan? A bit more expensive but easier to work and MUCH stronger.


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

Gene Howe said:


> Very nice, SJ.
> Have you considered 1/8" Lexan? A bit more expensive but easier to work and MUCH stronger.


Yes, actually I have thought of that. Is there a table saw or band saw blade that will cut that stuff without melting it?


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Yes, actually I have thought of that. Is there a table saw or band saw blade that will cut that stuff without melting it?


Ahh, the joys of a shopsmith band saw. Speeds as low as 700 rpm.:thumbsup:

Usually, Lexan will have protective paper. Leave it on to dissipate the heat. It works for me with a scroll saw. Easier to draw lines to cut, too.

Generally, the wider the blade, and the fewer the teeth, the less heat build up in the cut. I use a 3/8", 4TPI and generally run it at around 1000 rpm.


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

My only recommendations would be to use Barrel Hinges and a Half Mortise Lock


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Thanks Johnnie. That is a good idea. I was playing around this afternoon and came up with this (pics). I used a scroll saw to cut out the window. Rounded it over from the top on the router table, then used a rabbiting bit for the underside lip. Maybe I can clean up the corners with a chisel, cut some molding for the glass.



Your welcome.

I was going to suggest making the cut out with a scroll saw, but wasn't sure you had one when you said you would have to make the cut out using a jig saw....


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