# Reviving my old radial arm saw



## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

Hi,
This may be a repeat post, I haven't seen my first post as a new member. 
I'm trying to revive my first real woodworking tool purchase about 35 years ago.....maybe even 40.It's a 10 inch Craftsman 113.23100 radial arm saw. It's been sitting unused for over 30 years. I've finally cleared out a space and would like to start doing projects again. The saw looks good and the motor runs, I can crank it up and down, the carriage moves smoothly along the arm, the arm swings smoothly, the power unit angle is able to do bevel cuts, but it is stuck in the crosscut position. I can not rotate it to the rip position.
I won't budge a bit. 
I did get a suggestion from a Craftsman Club to use wd40 in the swivel latch pin knob which I've done. And squirt it into the pivot area. I've done that and tried penatrating oil for a week now. I've tried using a one by two for leverage but am reluctant to apply too much force. I've also gently tapped the mount at the pivot point.
I tried to get the recall rip fence and guard but this model does not qualify. 
So, I'd like your help in freeing up the yoke. Has anyone accomplished this? Or have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Tim fm CT.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

may sound stupid but have you check the OM? i have the same saw but i never move it to the rip position. isn't there a nob attached to a rod sticking straight up from the motor carriage that needs to be activated, along with releasing the yoke lock (lever on right side of motor carriage)?


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## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

toolguy1000 said:


> may sound stupid but have you check the OM? i have the same saw but i never move it to the rip position. isn't there a nob attached to a rod sticking straight up from the motor carriage that needs to be activated, along with releasing the yoke lock (lever on right side of motor carriage)?


Nope not stupid gotta start somewhere. I understand that. But yes there is a rod for that and the yoke lock lever and they both have been released etc.
Thanks for your reply.
Say, seeing that you do not rip with your saw. Would you like to pass on the antikickback arm spreader and pawls? If I can get the yoke freed up, I sure could use the kickback stuff.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I suspect you will have to dismount the carriage and disassemble it. The yoke rotates on a disk looking thingy and it may be frozen to the point of needing to be taken apart. Another thought: that saw is one of the ones that was recalled, you may be able to get a carriage assembly from someone who sent the motor in for the recall. If you choose to disassemble, it will pay to have an exploded drawing, the Craftsman carriage/yoke design was not nearly as simple as the Dewalts.


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

I've got a 1972 era 113.29460. Don't know how similar it is - but mine isn't too difficult to disassemble. That would be the best way to see what's going on.

I don't think you'd need the exploded diagram if you take some pictures of the components as you take things apart. If it would help, I'd be happy to send you a pdf of the parts diagram.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*There are 2 "locks'*

One is the vertical indexing pin, spring loaded, pull up to rotate the carriage 90 degrees in any position from parallel to 180 degrees.

The other is a chrome lever, sticking out horizontally on the right right side, which locks the carriage in the desired position.

Both must be in the proper position for the carriage to rotate.

The chrome lever is "unlocked" when when pulled back toward the operator and locked when pushed toward the column.

The vertical pin is pulled up to release the carriage.


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> One is the vertical indexing pin, spring loaded, pull up to rotate the carriage 90 degrees in any position from parallel to 180 degrees.
> 
> The other is a chrome lever, sticking out horizontally on the right right side, which locks the carriage in the desired position.
> 
> ...


Oops. Good point. Try that first - easier than disassembling things


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

-Tim- said:


> ...Say, seeing that you do not rip with your saw. Would you like to pass on the antikickback arm spreader and pawls?
> 
> .


Tim, google "radial arm saw recall to see if your saw us covered.

If so they will send you a package of parts that will include the spreader and pawls, no charge.


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## EWerner (Oct 14, 2010)

Um, Woodnthings, I don't know if you realize this but you have a Porter Cable router stuck in your RAS:smile:

I use my RAS quite a bit but don't rip it because the saw tends to pick up the work piece off of the able. If you do rip with it try to use feather boards to hold down the work piece. The anti kick back will catch the work but by then it is ruined anyways and your heart rate is over 200 beats per minute.


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## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

EWerner said:


> Um, Woodnthings, I don't know if you realize this but you have a Porter Cable router stuck in your RAS:smile:
> 
> I use my RAS quite a bit but don't rip it because the saw tends to pick up the work piece off of the able. If you do rip with it try to use feather boards to hold down the work piece. The anti kick back will catch the work but by then it is ruined anyways and your heart rate is over 200 beats per minute.


Thanks for the replies I'll respond the the last one received.
I did mention that the pin and lever are in the correct position when trying to move the yoke, Also, my saw is not included in that recall.
I noticed in the original set up steps the whole yoke asembly can be slid to the front and off the arm. Will that give me acess to the pivot point that is "frozen"

Tim fm CT


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

-Tim- said:


> I noticed in the original set up steps the whole yoke asembly can be slid to the front and off the arm. Will that give me acess to the pivot point that is "frozen"
> 
> Tim fm CT


Yes. Assuming your saw is similar to mine, you will see a circular piece, about 2 1/2" diameter, with holes around the circumference. Remove (unscrew) this piece and two main pieces of the yoke will separate - that's where the action is.

I tried to attach a pdf of the parts diagram, but the site restrictions on file size wouldn't let me.


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## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

minuteman62-64 said:


> Yes. Assuming your saw is similar to mine, you will see a circular piece, about 2 1/2" diameter, with holes around the circumference. Remove (unscrew) this piece and two main pieces of the yoke will separate - that's where the action is.
> 
> I tried to attach a pdf of the parts diagram, but the site restrictions on file size wouldn't let me.


Aha, thank you very much. I'll try that as soon as I can.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

-Tim- said:


> my saw is not included in that recall.
> I noticed in the original set up steps the whole yoke asembly can be slid to the front and off the arm. Will that give me acess to the pivot point that is "frozen"
> 
> Tim fm CT


Actually I think it is, but they don't have any parts for it...so all that saw qualifies for is the $100 reward for the return of the motor. If you don't have the manual, here is a link to it. You can download the pdf file, it has the drawings and other info. good luck....


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## Toolman2 (Jun 15, 2010)

I had that exact same RAS along with a bit newer craftsman RAS. Since the arm assembly was much better on the older one, I sent the motor in on that one for $100 and re-engineered the newer motor and assembly into the older arm assembly, plus I had the blade guard kit to boot! It worked great.


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## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

Fred Hargis said:


> Actually I think it is, but they don't have any parts for it...so all that saw qualifies for is the $100 reward for the return of the motor. If you don't have the manual, here is a link to it. You can download the pdf file, it has the drawings and other info. good luck....


Thanks Fred and minuteman (how 'bout mm) for short.:icon_smile:
Thanks for the link.
Took the assembly off the arm.
The yoke clamp asembly (plate with the holes) has some rust on it. Did the penetrating oil thing, tapped it a bit and the plate with the holes moves along with the chrome yoke clamp handle. That is all that moves. If I look through the holes the flat surface under it looks clean (no rust) but it does not appear to move at all. 
Is that the actual part that is supposed to swival?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*see post 6*

that shows the yoke and the plate at different angles. There is a center bolt that attaches them and is the pivot. It's a bit tricky to get the chrome lock lever in the right orientation to lock... IF you take it all apart.


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

-Tim- said:


> Thanks Fred and minuteman (how 'bout mm) for short.:icon_smile:
> Thanks for the link.
> Took the assembly off the arm.
> The yoke clamp asembly (plate with the holes) has some rust on it. Did the penetrating oil thing, tapped it a bit and the plate with the holes moves along with the chrome yoke clamp handle. That is all that moves. If I look through the holes the flat surface under it looks clean (no rust) but it does not appear to move at all.
> Is that the actual part that is supposed to swival?


It's been awhile since I took mine apart - but, as I best remember, the circular plate has a threaded shaft that screws into the yoke handle. Underneath, there is a lock screw that goes from the yoke into one of the holes in that circular plate. You remove the lock screw (sorry, forgot that in my last post) and (maybe need some sort of spanner) unscrew the circular plate. That will let you separate the two main pieces and expose the bearing surfaces that the yoke rotates on.


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## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

minuteman62-64 said:


> It's been awhile since I took mine apart - but, as I best remember, the circular plate has a threaded shaft that screws into the yoke handle. Underneath, there is a lock screw that goes from the yoke into one of the holes in that circular plate. You remove the lock screw (sorry, forgot that in my last post) and (maybe need some sort of spanner) unscrew the circular plate. That will let you separate the two main pieces and expose the bearing surfaces that the yoke rotates on.


Thanks again,
Now a question before I do this.
I do not have any kickback arm or paws or separators etc. (must be lost) To me that probably eliminates any ripping with this saw. So, is there any other reason I'd want to swival the motor assembly out of the cross cut position?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Some experience with ripping here*

I've used a RAS for ripping with good results. 
The key is not the anti kick back pauls, but keeping the nose of the blade guard rotated around so it just barely touches the workpiece.
This prevents the work from being lifted off the table.
I suspect your issue with the pivot is a rusted or seized pin that is not coming out of the indexing hole. A sharp rap on the end, downward, with the knob unscrewed should break it free ....IF that's all it is. Some Kroil or other penetrating oil will help loosen it. If it were mine I would keep at it until it works and designed.

From a thread posted earlier:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/evil-machine-28461/


Ripping on a RAS can be done safely.... otherwise 5 million RAS saws should be recalled nation wide just in case some bozo wants to try it without following the safety instructions and not using the safety equipment. And I didn't particularly want to find a 12 foot straight edge or cut to a marked line freehand, and measure each piece twice, actually 4 times, 2 on each end....etc...etc... 

What I did find was the mill's straight line rip was less than straight on many of the 8 boards I have cut thus far...hmmm

I could have used my Festool and a 130" guide and attached another shorter guide, but I had used a RAS set up like this before and was comfortable with it. There were no issues. :no:
Here's some more pictures: Attached Thumbnails


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> I've used a RAS for ripping with good results.
> The key is not the anti kick back pauls, but keeping the nose of the blade guard rotated around so it just barely touches the workpiece.
> This prevents the work from being lifted off the table.


Thanks!


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## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

Hi,
Thanks for the reply and pics. I see the roller. Is that what prevents kickbacks? About the pin in the indexing hole - - it you mean the swivel latch pin, it is free to move up and down. I hold it up with a clamp so I can use two hands to try to swivel the motor.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yep, that pin*

If that pin is clearing the indexing hole, then it should pivot. 
Is the carriage off the arm at this point?
Is the locking lever "camming" up and down like it's supposed to?
If so, there is no reason it shouldn't pivot...... unless it's seized on the pivot bolt. That would mean disassembling it, just take a photo or remember the location and order of the part as they come off.
That should be the last of it. :yes:


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## joek30296 (Dec 16, 2009)

If it's stuck in the crosscut position, leave it there. This only my 2 cents, but it's dangerous to rip on a radial arm saw. Use a table saw instead.

Like I said, my opinion only.

joe


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## ironman123 (Jan 21, 2013)

Tim, sorry your saw didn't make the recall. Mine did. It is a 113.197160 or close. Someone here mentioned the RAS recall and I entered the required info on their site and today I got a big box by FedEx. I bought mine in 1984.

I know this doesn't help you but I just wanted to tell someone about getting new stuff FREE for a saw bought in 1984.

Ray


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*where are you at with this Tim?*



woodnthings said:


> If that pin is clearing the indexing hole, then it should pivot.
> Is the carriage off the arm at this point?
> Is the locking lever "camming" up and down like it's supposed to?
> If so, there is no reason it shouldn't pivot...... unless it's seized on the pivot bolt. That would mean disassembling it, just take a photo or remember the location and order of the part as they come off.
> That should be the last of it. :yes:


Any luck yet? :blink:


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## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> Any luck yet? :blink:


Thanks for asking. It appears that, sure enough, it must be stuck at the pivot. I'm not sure that I want to attemp to go deeper. I don't want to end up in over my head with this.
I checked the set up proceedure and all is within specs - - except the ripping capability.
Tim fm Ct


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Is the carriage off the arm?*

If so, that will make the pivot easy to access. There may be other reasons to get it back to pivoting. It's really not that complicated, maybe I scared you earlier.... :blink:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Your "fix" may sound more complicated than it really is. If you have found an explosion drawing of the saw parts, you can keep track of what goes where. From that you may see where the hang up could be.



















.


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

I've got a pdf of the parts diagram - but can't upload it because of the size. If anyone can educate me (probably not easy  ) on how to either compress the file or IM it, I will do so.


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## -Tim- (May 14, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> If so, that will make the pivot easy to access. There may be other reasons to get it back to pivoting. It's really not that complicated, maybe I scared you earlier.... :blink:


I found the manual for my saw. It has a parts list diagram. Did you suggest that I start at the bottom by removing the Yoke handle and lock screw? I am hoping so. Attacking it from the top does indeed scare me. 
Also, would you please suggest dimensions for the the three wood sections behind the front table. I could not find the OEM table clamps so I made them by modifying "c" clamps and screwing them into the side of the base. I tried using a 2x4 for a fence but it's too wide and I can't move the arm to the 45 degree position.


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

It's actually easy once you get the carriage off the arm. Take a couple of photos before you start, just to make sure.

Assuming yours is like mine (may or may not be a valid assumption  ), you start by removing the Lock Screw (it's Part #44 on mine). That will allow you to unscrew the Yoke Clamp Assembly (Part #1) from the Yoke Handle (Part #38). Then the Carriage Assembly (Part #13) should separate from the Yoke Assembly (Part #50) and give you access to the area where the pivot action occurs.


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## Bob M. (May 25, 2013)

*Me Too: Yoke Swivel Stuck*

Must be divine intervention: I am now at the point where the carriage is removed, the motor is removed ... and I have proven that the yoke is STUCK. Result is NO SWIVEL. I encountered the hint that the original grease used (when not used frequently - eg swiveled) would dry up and become more glue-like. For me that is better than rust.

My problem is that I cannot unscrew the screw holding the yoke latch to the carriage. How hard should I hit it? Is there a special assembly that would apply downward pressure while holding screwdriver in place to dislodge?

The write-up I did find was that if a thorough saturating of WD40 did not "unstick" the parts to try spray brake cleaner. Is there a better option "in the wild"?

All hints appreciated. If I find a cure first then I will post that update.

Thanks


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

OK, first step. See that hex bolt head just to the right of the "screw" in you second photo? That should be the lock screw. It goes up and through one of the holes in that round thing with the holes (Yoke Clamp Assembly) above it - that is probably the main thing that is keeping you from removing the Yoke Handle. Remove it.

Second step. The "screw" that attaches the Yoke Handle is not a screw. It is the end of the shaft on the Yoke Clamp Assembly. If you can't turn it via the slot you should be able to put some sort of spanner setup in the holes on the Yoke Clamp Assembly and unscrew it that way. I've done mine by putting a piece of rod, with a diameter close to that of the holes, into one of the holes and hitting the rod with a hammer (counter-clockwise, from above, as I recall).

All of the above, of course, is assuming yours is like mine - which, based on your photos, it appears to be.


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

OK, maybe more ways than one to skin a cat. Maybe this will help.


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## Bob M. (May 25, 2013)

*Thanks to minuteman62-64 and Tim..*

I think you have done it. The approach is "outside the box". I will provide a pool of WD40 from the top and then use the tool that loosens the grinder wheel (two prongs opposite sides of disk). I had to make my own and so my tool allows me to adjust for different widths. (Delay because I had to fix my wife's kayak and then do kayaking over Memorial Day.)

I still plan on posting details when completely fixed.


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

Go for it! Don't forget to remove the lock screw before trying to unscrew the yoke clamp assembly. Also, it will go easier if you release the yoke handle as much as you can (takes the tension off the shaft of the yoke clamp assembly).


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## Bill White 2 (Jun 23, 2012)

"can be slid to the front and off the arm"

Just don't forget to reinstall the stop bolts.
I did forget. ONCE!!!
Bill


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

So, how'd it come out? Curious minds want to know


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## Bob M. (May 25, 2013)

1. With Yoke and Plate removed, there is a groove where the corrosion exists causing binding.
2. The Persuader, (used gently) allows the carriage and yoke to swivel a bit (see 4). With movement we are almost there
3. My version of "pin wrench" did ok, but (plug for HFT) this inexpensive tool helped make the job easier.
4. There is now evidence that the saw can return from crosscut to cut position.
5. Pry bars (2): With them I can get between the layers, but am not sure how they are "limited". Extreme gentleness is involved.
As MinuteMan62-64 shared, a major bit of progress was the removal of the lock screw (retaining pin). The screw head appearance from the yoke side is a dark forest. The yoke has threads and removal from above by spinning the plate is the solution. I used lots of WD40. The pin came out like a knife from warm butter. 
A socket for the retaining pin, the pin wrench for the plate, more WD40 and only three taps from the persuader gave me movement to the degree you see here.
I have saturated the connection area (see 1) to dissolve more corrosion. I would love tips from anyone about how these two parts interact. My assumption is that there is probably a 100 degree rotation range and only a quarter turn is possible.
My first project is to make a replacement table, fence and spacer. Found some phenomenal particle board covered with Formica. (at the right price) Thanks for all the assistance towards my salvaging one of my favorite tools.
Bob M. (My photo skills will get better. This is huge.)


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## minuteman62-64 (Mar 15, 2012)

It's been about a year since I've had mine apart, but, I think the two pieces (Carriage Assembly & Yoke Assembly) should separate once you remove that circular plate. That plate and the yoke handle are (I think) the only things that hold the two together. If it turns a little bit it should be free enough to separate so you can do a good job of removing rust and lubing.

Don't apply too much force in case there is something else holding the assembly together (that I've forgotten about).


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## willh (Jan 1, 2017)

Hello, would you be so kind as to send me that pdf manual of the Craftsman RAS M/N #113.294? I have a frozen arm latch lever preventing the swing-arm from moving angularly. 

Thank you, 
Will ([email protected])


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

willh said:


> Hello, would you be so kind as to send me that pdf manual of the Craftsman RAS M/N #113.294? I have a frozen arm latch lever preventing the swing-arm from moving angularly.
> 
> Thank you,
> Will ([email protected])


If you take the sheetmetal cover off the top I believe you will find the post has notches on it for the arm to lock into. The lever on the top just pulls a pin out allowing the arm to swing. You might have to soak the part with a penetrating oil for a few days but I bet you can get the pin loose.


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## Oakwerks (Mar 24, 2013)

I think God is telling you not to rip with your RAS .... Too dangerous....
I have a 113.***xx, too ...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I talked to God myself....*



Oakwerks said:


> I think God is telling you not to rip with your RAS .... Too dangerous....
> I have a 113.***xx, too ...


He told me "You can do it!"
So I went ahead and straight line ripped 400 lineal feet of Cypress, no issues, except for overfeeding the motor causing it to overheat and trip the thermal overload. A correct size extension cord fixed that:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/evil-machine-28461/

The danger part is not knowing how to do it. You can not think like it's a table saw because the blade is on top of the work. You must use the blade cover/guard as a "hold down", just skimming the top of the work piece as you feed it into the blade. You must feed the work from the "front" or the "up cutting" blade rotation.
As the blade rotates, it wants to lift the work piece off the table, hence the blade guard must hold it down, not your fingers.

Finally, NEVER rip or crosscut any workpiece that does not sit flat and level on the table, wheter it's RAS or a table saw. Bad things will happen! :surprise2:


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