# Band Saw boxes



## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

Hey Guys,

My last post was asking for ideas for boxes as presents for my family for the holidays. I came across a website about band saw boxes. I have to say, they are the most intriguing and unique things i have ever seen. I have decided I have to master this craft. In my attempt to make one my blade failed miserably. It was an old 3/16 inch blade for my Craftsman 80" band saw that I got used. I glued up 4 pieces of 3/4 walnut and the blade popped on a couple turns. This question is for anyone experienced with their band saw. What blade size and material should I use ( carbon, bi metal, etc). Is there any tuning up I should consider with this band saw. I would love to be able to make such a simple box but so far my band saw has not been able to preform. Any suggestions?

Wannabewoodworker


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hi Wannabe

I Am assuming that you are making small boxes.

If you are cutting any tight curves you will need a very narrow blade. The narrower the blade is the tighter the curve you can cut. 3/16 is certainly narrow enough for good results. The downside with very narrow blades of course is that they break more easily, so be careful not to force the cut. I would also suggest that for cutting boxes you might want to go with a blade that only has three or four teeth per inch.

Another thing you can try is to drill holes in the corners of your box big enough to give the blade clearance to turn. This way you are not trying to make a tight turn while cutting the wood.

Try working with a good quality blade about 1/4 inch wide with three TPI.

Keep us posted.

Gerry


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## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

*Status report*

Ok. Status report guys. It is much harder than it looks. I can't seem to cut a straight line nor can I trace a line I drew accurately. My boxes work in terms of utility. I even made a box with a drawer. What they lack is beauty. I will post some pics soon.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

Hey, don't be discouraged. It would be pretty amazing if you were great at making them the first time out. I've often been delighted byh how nifty many of those bandsaw boxes look and I'm sure if you stick with it you'll be right up there with the best.

Good luck, and don't forget the pics. Folks here are very forgiving and encouraging about new stuff ... we've all been there.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Difficulty following a straight line is one of the downsides of using very narrow bandsaw blades. If you do not have to cut tight curves you can use a wider blade. That is where predrilling the corners can help.
As phinds has pointed out, with a little practice you will probably become an ace, so don't get discouraged if your first few don't turn out sterling.

Gerry


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## Lucas54 (Aug 21, 2008)

That's one of the things I love about bandsaw boxes. There aren't many straight lines to worry about! I always chalk any mis-cuts up to design elements =). That and I tend to cut wide of the lines I drew and sand the box down the rest of the way.


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## falbergsawco (Nov 25, 2009)

Narrow blades do not necessarily make tight turns. High set angles do. The ideal blade has a 1:1 TPW (teeth per width) ratio with the most set possible. You can try tweaking your fine-pitched narrow (W) blades out into a pseodo-wavy set pattern (for more kerf width) with your fingers, but be careful. The deeper the cut the more blade body you're going to need but as long as you use the 1:1 TPW you should be able to get enough Set Angle to turn 1/2" radii. As cut depth increases you'll need to up the blade width (W) about 1/8" for every 4" of cut depth. May be hard to digest but that's what works, every time. Tight radius work tends to deflect blades and they'll break pretty easy if you don't release the deflection frequently by letting go of the workpiece for a moment to let it re-center itself on the wheels; and on the guides, both. It's hard to "feel" deflectionary force; it feels like feed; but it aims the piece sideways. Letting go periodically lets the blade re-center. Be careful not to over-tension.


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## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

I see there is a lot to learn about my band saw. In the prospect of making these boxes, I purchased a timber wolf 1/4 inch .025 thickness from wood craft. I think I have done a pretty good job tuning up the bandsaw. Maybe that is the thing I need to consider. I bought this saw from a friend for $75. It is a craftsman 12 in saw. I have been looking at the 14" ultimate bandsaw from grizzly. The GO555. What are your thoughts. Should I worry about buying a better saw. If so, does anyone have any experience with this saw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Craftsman made some poor bandsaws*

But, their newer models, the 14" Professional is one of mine and for the money, $400.00 on sale it was a good deal. Large table, good frame and decent ball bearing guides. The 1 HP motor takes a few moments to wind up to speed, but once it gets going it's fine. All that aside, the Grizzly GO555 gets very good reviews, and as with all their products, you get a lot of bang for the buck. 

So, if I were you and I was going to make the bandsaw a significant part of my woodworking craft/hobby I would go for the biggest and best. Resawing is an important task that wood workers who want thinner stock for smaller boxes get into. You need a planer and jointer down the road but get the best of each tool as you go. Here's a curved top box I just finished, I used the 14" Craftsman to resaw the logs into 1/2" thin stock, then planed them down to 3/8".
:thumbsup: bill
BTW go to http://www.falbergsawz.com/ to see a great video!


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## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

*Pine boxes*

Well. I decided to make an attempt at a " teardrop" box out of pine. It has been a while since I have worked with soft wood. I was surprised at my results. I did an ok job. At least, better than my previous attempt. I would like to make a yin yang box but i need to get used to making cleaner and tighter curves. Having trouble posting pics with my computer. Don't worry they are coming soon.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Wannabewoodworker said:


> The GO555. What are your thoughts. Should I worry about buying a better saw.
> 
> Woodnthings is correct in saying that if you are going to make a bandsaw an important piece of equipment in your shop to go for a good one, with lots of capacity. That is the question you want to look at. How much of this work do you intend doing?
> Before you spend a significant amount of money on a newer bandsaw learn to use the one you have to the best of its capabilities. During the process you will determine and decide wether you are really interested in continuing with this type of work, and you will also decide which features you like and dislike about the saw you have, and what you will be looking for in your next saw.
> ...


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## red (Sep 30, 2008)

I think the show is called "American Woodshop" with Scott Phillips, but he did a show on bandsaw boxes yesterday and he got me thinking about doing them also. He talked about the blades and steps in doing these boxes. He does cool work. Not easy though! If I can find more about the show, I'll post it.

Red


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## red (Sep 30, 2008)

It is American Woodshop episode 1510. Go here and check it out.

http://wbgu.org/americanwoodshop/episodes.html

Red


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## wolfmanyoda (Apr 10, 2009)

I think I saw that episode a few months ago. Was it the one where he started with a palm tree puzzle and then made a heart shaped box?
That was a good episode.

EDIT: Whoops, I missed the link you provided.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

[quote= Should I worry about buying a better saw. 

If you plan on doing much resawing, other than 4" or so thick, ypou should think of a bigger/better saw.
If not into resawing, I would tune the saw up, and se what it will do.

I have had an old Delta 14" saw for 5 years or so, and like it a lot. I don't have the riser kit, so my resaw is only 6", but I haven't had the need for more. Plus a friend has a big BS if I need it.

I did buy another used 14" BS, at a yard sale for $100. It sure is nice not to have to change blades and set it up, when switching from resaw to scroll cuts!

After tuning up your saw and using a good blade, if the saw works for you, keep it. If you want to do thick resawing, buy a larger saw, but keep the 12" saw for scroll work. Assuming you have the room for it.


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

I just finished my second bandsaw box and used a 1/4" blade with 4 TPI. I made them with my 30-year-old 12" craftsman with 3/4 HP and it worked fine. Cut through about 3-4" of hardwood easily. I may post pics in the project showcase later.


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## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

*New Toy*

Well guys. I went ahead and did it. I bought the go555 with the 6 inch riser block. I have to say I am very impressed. The are a few questions though. First, the fence it comes with seems limiting. When I rest a piece of stock longer than the table, it rides up a portion of the fence that has a view of the rail measurement before getting on the table itself. Just like a table saw, if you were going to rip a semi long piece you would like to butt it up to the fence and push it through. I tried adjusting the rail system so stock can over hang the table but no success. Does anyone have any experience with this saw and this same problem. My other question is about resawing. I would love to make a resaw fence. Does anyone have any plans and advice on the matter and how do I adjust for blade drift. I am unfamiliar with how to deal with it. Thanks for the help in advance.


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Here's a whole page of jig plans for your new saw.

http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?cat=689

You can also consider using a pivot block for resawing. Very simple design and concept. Find an article on it here: 

http://www.hoistman.com/HoistMan/Band.html


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## falbergsawco (Nov 25, 2009)

If you're really serious about building a fence you could do something like this. I have several fence designs outlined in my book and instructions on working aluminum in my (still unfinished) book.


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## Dejure (Sep 2, 2009)

*Low end bandsaws of yesteryear vs todays units*

I know this is an old post, but I found it, so I assume others will too.

Regarding the statement "Before you spend a significant amount of money on a newer bandsaw learn to use the one you have to the best of its capabilities," I'd like to offer another point of view.

I dealt with my old Sears band saw for years. I used it a bit here and a bit there. One day, I found some money burning a hole in my pocket, so I dashed off to one of the woodworkers emergency places - Western Tool, and bought a fourteen inch Powermatic. 

My woodworking world changed dramatically from that day. Where, before, the [older] Sears unit was unlikely to see four hours work a year, the Powermatic is used almost every time I go out into the shop. Resawing wasn't even a consideration before. Now I have no qualms about buying maple and cutting it down for cabinet faces or even doing some veneers.

To be fair, all my Sears blades were (wait for it..........) Sears blades. I buy decent blades now. Those and the extra horses helps a lot. A really big "a lot."

My friend bought a Grizly a while back, though mine's much prettier, his description of it suggest it competes, in every other way, with my Powermatic.

So, while you may attempt to get familiar with your current band saw, if it's not fun and doing the job, it just might be the equipment. If nothing else, see if you can buy used (there might be a reason these are hard to find used). You'll probably be able to sell if for what you paid for it, if you change your mind about making saw dust.


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

I appreciate your view. In fact, my bandsaw is the first machine I'd like to eventually replace. 

I think the intention behind maxing out the capabilities of your tools is to determine if they will really meet your needs. For me, I know that, even though I'm pushing the limits on my saw, there are still some things I can't do (or at least can't do well). Thus, a new machine should be on the list. Some people may not need to cut veneers or resaw, and if that's the case a new machine isn't a very pragmatic solution compared to tweaking your existing machine to do the job.



Dejure said:


> One day, I found some money burning a hole in my pocket


I also think this makes your situation a bit different. Most often, people post about how to do things on the cheap.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

And I'm glad this thread was revived...I love my Grizzly bandsaw, and the more ways I can find to use it, the better!


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## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

I would agree that in some cases the equipment is the larger cause of problems. I have an older Rockwell bandsaw that I cannot get to cut straight. If I try to resaw with a fence the blade drifts and I get wavy cuts. I have had the opportunity to use better saws without these issues. I learned my lesson on buying cheap tools. You don't necessarily have to purchase the very best, but you will notice it if you buy inferior products. 

I have noticed improvements in my own woodworking as I have upgraded to higher quality tools. They don't make all the difference but they certainly take away a number of excuses. :laughing:


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

A grizzly 17" or 19" is on my next major tool purchase list, then a larger planer, then a drum sander.


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## Dejure (Sep 2, 2009)

*Being too cheap, or growing*

I don't really believe this list is about doing things on the cheap. Rather, I think that is but one facet of the doings here.

While I might spend a little time on a list which focused on cheap approaches to situations, experience has shown me too much focus on such will inhibit my ability to grow compared to those who focus on function and ability, often to the exclusion of cheap.

I used to wash my sand belts down with mineral spirits to get mileage out of them, but as demand for my work increased, I came to understand cleaning sand belts was costing me more than buying new, since the value of my time had increased (e.g., I no longer had free time).

My first table saw was a freebie, a tilting table unit. It scared the heck out of me. My use of it was limited because of its limitations.

Next, I upgraded to a Rockwell contractor's saw I found at a garage sale and horse traded for some woodwork. Life improved greatly. It was a pretty good saw, but it also had limitations. For example, the fence limited my pace because I still had to use a [inaccurate] tape measure to verify readings and to square it to the table. There were other limitations I was only slightly aware of, such as power, since I hadn't experienced using a more expensive saw. 

Reading woodworking magazines lead me to believe a cabinet saw would alter my shop experience. Eventually, I got my first Unisaw (a 3 hp right tilt) with a Unifence. The first time I set the fence for a cut, turned the saw on and ran a board, I knew my entire woodworking world had been changed. A mere flip of a lever allowed me to lock in a dead accurate cuts. Listening to the hum of the motor and blade put me in the mind of comparing the engine noise of a 1974 four cylinder Mustang to sixteen formula V racing engine - they were worlds apart.

Running the cabinet saw, with its kick-up and kick-down [Jet] out feed table, support for fifty-two inch wide cuts and seconds only cut dimension set ups, made it such a pleasure to use I began finding reasons to use it, rather than avoiding it and merely using it out of desperation.

So it was, too, with my first jointer, a four inch unit with a abysmally short bed. A customer made a deal with me and bought it on his Sears card. It lasted about a month, then got replaced with a six inch Sears model (a debatable improvement).

So it was I began to learn "I can't afford cheap." I'm not always a fast learner though. I limped by with two or three Sears band saws for a few decades before I got my first real band saw (my Powermatic). When I did, it was the table saw/jointer experience, all over again. That is, once again, I find reasons to use it, instead of avoiding it.


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