# A question about Parks Super Glaze



## Emy (Dec 21, 2011)

So, I recently bought Parks Super Glaze to finish a couple Christmas gifts. I used Parks Super Glaze and put down a coat. One of the pieces came out great, with no problems. The other two pieces didn't come out evenly; one wasn't level when set (the table was wobbly and I didn't notice it was uneven), so the glaze set unevenly. The other had a spot on it where I missed. I made a small second batch and patched the section where I missed on the one, and re-coated the unlevel piece and leveled it out. It's been over 12 hours, and they're still sticky.
The box I got had no instructions in it, so I followed the instructions on the bottles. Should I remove it to the best of my ability and re-coat it? Is there anything I can spray over it that will seal and harden it? If I wanted to remove it, how would I? Would blowing it with a blow drier possibly help it set?

Also, when they're all done (completely set and cured), I want to wipe them down real quick just to make sure they're clean and look good when I gift them. Would any cleaner be safe to use on the finished glaze, or would the chemicals in the cleaner ruin it? (I was thinking of using something like Windex or Pledge)


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It's tacky because it wasn't sufficiently catalyzed. You would have a hard time getting that stuff off. You would do best to get a fresh supply with the directions, and mix with the proper proportions, and pour another thin coat.

To clean,, a damp cloth would do the job. Cleaners like Windex should have no effect on the finish (once cured). A very mild solution of liquid dish soap and water will clean the surface.













 







.


----------



## Emy (Dec 21, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> It's tacky because it wasn't sufficiently catalyzed. You would have a hard time getting that stuff off. You would do best to get a fresh supply with the directions, and mix with the proper proportions, and pour another thin coat.​
> To clean,, a damp cloth would do the job. Cleaners like Windex should have no effect on the finish (once cured). A very mild solution of liquid dish soap and water will clean the surface.


Would the top coat set/cure properly if it's put on a tacky coat? I read in a couple places that if it's put on top of an uncured coat, it won't cure properly


----------



## Emy (Dec 21, 2011)

I mixed the rest of the epoxy and put a thin coat on each piece. I brushed it on, and it looks good so far. I'll wait until tomorrow to check if they're cured properly. I made sure to measure out equal parts of each before mixing them together. Hopefully it cures this time. If not, then I guess I'm SOL and won't have them by Friday (when I'm supposed to be gifting them)


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Emy said:


> I mixed the rest of the epoxy and put a thin coat on each piece. I brushed it on, and it looks good so far. I'll wait until tomorrow to check if they're cured properly. I made sure to measure out equal parts of each before mixing them together. Hopefully it cures this time. If not, then I guess I'm SOL and won't have them by Friday (when I'm supposed to be gifting them)


You brushed it on?? It's designed to be poured. Epoxies work best when there is some density to the application. Well...it's wait and see now.












 







.


----------



## Emy (Dec 21, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> You brushed it on?? It's designed to be poured. Epoxies work best when there is some density to the application. Well...it's wait and see now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ok, I should say 'poured then brushed out'. It's still a thick coat, I just didn't have anything else to spread it out with.


----------

