# Craftsman 10" Table Saw, good deal?



## Double

Looking to pick up a used table saw,

Craftsman 10" Table Saw (Model 315.228390)

Includes all instructions, manuals, original parts, and router wing extension. Has a mobile base and looks brand new all over.

Asking $325

This will be my first table saw, initially used to do a built in desk with bookshelves against a wall in the office. After that, a large pergola/deck in the backyard. I don't have any plans for major projects after that, so I really am just looking for something up to the task that will last through alot of small projects over the years.

I've heard that it may not accept some routers, but I have a Craftsman router of similar vintage that should bolt up just fine to it.


What do you guys think?


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## knotscott

Looks to be in good shape, is a capable saws, and includes some extras, but $325 is a little steep for a used older style contractor saw with no riving knife and no warranty. That much money goes too far towards a new saw. $250 would be more reasonable IMHO. 

Please let us know how you make out. :thumbsup:


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## Bill in VaBeach

Agree with Knotscott. That 350. has you 70% of the way or better towards a new Ridgid with lifetime warranty and both a riving knife and blade safety. No complaint with the Craftsman, I have a similar one I use on site for kitchen and bath remodeling work. Bought the Ridgid a few months ago and it stays home, not at all transportable for a "contractor saw", but a nice machine and a very competitive deal at a bit less than $500. If you are intent on the Craftsman, $250. is very reasonable. Listen carefully to those arbor bearings though.


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## Double

Met in the middle on price, headed out to pick up AM tomorrow. 

Next order of business, what is the table saw bible? 

Or at least a book that will get me started out on the right track with the table and the first project, which will basically be a desk with flanking file drawers against a wall, and two built in bookshelves.

Thanks!


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## knotscott

Jim Tolpin's Table Saw Magic is excellent IMO. Kelly Mahler's Table Saw Book is highly regarded also, but I haven't read it personally.

As a total segway, speaking of Kelly Mahler's book reminded of one of the funniest stories I've read on these wwing forums. An active forum member (can't recall who or which forum), was in the market to buy a used contractor saw. He had done his homework and was gaining confidence in his knowledge of buying used tools, and found a listing for a Ridgid contractor saw. After telling the seller about the flaws of the saw, and why he didn't think it was worth the full asking price, they agreed on a price. When asked if he'd accept a check, the gentleman replied, "make it out to Kelly Mahler". He was selling the saw featured on the front of his book! I about spit my coffee all over my PC screen! :laughing:


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## DST

I have the same saw. No complaints but as already posted they are asking close to what it cost when it was new.


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## Double

Definitely have to pick up one of those this weekend.


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## thegrgyle

I have the EXACT same saw that you are picking up. It is a pretty good saw, and when I bought mine, it did come with a riving knife w/ antikickbacks and gaurd.

I would take the time in checking to make sure that the the saw is tuned up correctly when you get it. My Blade was not parallel to the miter gauge slots, so I needed to go thru the hassle of getting it within my acceptable tolerances. This saw is HEAVY, so if you need to adjust the blade alignment, you can always take the wings off to lighten it up a little.

As far as the router wing goes, I have found that every Craftsman router I have fits on the router wing without having to drill any new holes. I have drilled a few holes though to take advantage of some of my routers "above table" height adjustment features. Its cast iron, so drilling a new hole or two is not that difficult at all.

I agree about listening for the bearings as well. If anything sounds different than the normal "whine" from the blade spinning, you might want to make sure that everything is working the way it should..... I actually has some key-ways wear out on me, and I had to replace a couple pulleys... Not a big deal, since it is a Craftsman, and parts were real easy to find.

I really like this saw, and has really done alot for me. It definitely has its limitations, but all in all, I think you will be happy with it.

If you have any questions or concerns with the saw, feel free to drop me a private message, and I will try to help the best that I can.

Hope this helps.

Fabian


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## yocalif

knotscott, that Kelly Mahler story is funny.


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## KRM45

Funny I was eyeing the same CL posting. Let us know how it works out for you.


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## Double

Picked up table this morning, looks great and great guy with lots of good info about they ins and outs of this saw. Got to get it set up correctly this week, then projects begin next weekend.

After looking at a lot of flimsy router tables I think the cast iron extension on this saw will be a big bonus.


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## jlsanborn

Hey!
I just found this thread and registered in hopes of getting some quick feedback. I found this same saw on CL for $200 and am itching to pick it up tomorrow. For the life of me, I cannot find a HP rating and the owner can't figure it out. He thinks its 3/4hp, but I find that to be a bit low. I also found some old reviews about difficulty or in-ability to dial this thing in. I've run some old Craftsman's before and found that they were a little crude, but an "analist" could get them true. Is it worth the money? I'd love to have a UniSaw, but just can't justify the cost. I do have some cabinets to make, but most of the use would be much rougher than that. Will this thing rip 2x6 doug fir?
Thanks!
Johnny


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## jlsanborn

Oh, and is the router base bolt circle really that "strange"?. I've got a Bosch 1/4".


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## knotscott

If it's truly the same model, or a very similar model, and it's in decent shape, it'd be worth $200, and would be in the 1 to 1.5 hp range (even if it says 3hp on the front). Note that there are a lot of different models around...if this one is much older, it could be a lot of work. If it's a smaller older model (8" or 9" blades), I wouldn't bother.


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## jlsanborn

*Same saw*

Thanks for the tips! I would say that it is the same or nearly the same machine. Owner thinks it about an '02 and it looks identical to the saw the original poster shows here.

Spotted another saw...
"Delta 10" Contractor's Saw, good condition, 1-1/2 HP, 115/230V, $200. Says it's identical to the one the other guy listed for $350"

I'm going to call for more details on that this morning.


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## knotscott

jlsanborn said:


> Thanks for the tips! I would say that it is the same or nearly the same machine. Owner thinks it about an '02 and it looks identical to the saw the original poster shows here.
> 
> Spotted another saw...
> "Delta 10" Contractor's Saw, good condition, 1-1/2 HP, 115/230V, $200. Says it's identical to the one the other guy listed for $350"
> 
> I'm going to call for more details on that this morning.


If it's an '02, the model number will have a "315" prefix....315.######, made by TTI/Ryobi between 1997 and 2004. If it's a 113.######, it's made by Emerson prior to 1997....made in the US. Either are fine at the right price. 

$350 for a good full size Delta saw in good shape with a decent fence could be a reasonable deal, but some pics and/or model # would help. Things like upgraded fence, cast iron wings, mobile base, good blades, dados, etc., all add some value. If it's stripped with steel wings, and a stock fence, and nothing else included, $350 is likely more than I'd want to go, but it really depends on age, condition, etc.

On the flip side of the coin...not wanting to pay $350 for a used stripped contractor saw is the bargain hunter in me. We've all read of many other "great" deals on more saw for less, but if you need a saw, and don't want to or can't spend more than $350, it doesn't mean these saws are bad deals...those great deals don't happen every time. Both of these saws are capable of good work (and ripping 2x 6's) if set up correctly and run with the correct blade, so there is a "bird in hand" aspect to consider. It really depends on your sitation. You'll know when the right one rolls along.


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## jlsanborn

Waiting on a call back and a look-see on the Delta. No details other than what I posted were listed in the advertisement, so I'm hoping for a gem!

Thanks for the awesome feedback on the Craftsman! The one listed is of the 315 flavor and looks to be pretty well kept.

Neither come with any accessories and I would expect that they're both simply original equipment.

I currently have a Delta 34-670 that was given to me and cleaned up pretty nice. It works well, but is just too light for my needs. I've already stripped the new belt I put on it. I'm expecting the new steel reinforced version in my mailbox today. What do you suppose I could fetch for that thing on CL? I would rate the condition as 7 out of 10.


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## knotscott

As a gross guestimate without knowing much about those models and not seeing, I'd think $75-$125 would be fair for both parties. I sold a two year old model 36-600 (similar I think) that was in real nice shape for $190 about 9 years ago, when they were selling new for ~ $350-$395.


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## jlsanborn

Again, very much appreciated! :thumbsup:

The belt just showed up, so I'll get it running again and see what it'll bring. $100 seems like a nice number to me. It is a good little saw, just doesn't like resawing as much as I do :furious: :no:. I just called on a Rigid contractor's for $300. No experience there, but have heard good things and it looks nice?? Waiting for the call-backs on both the Delta and Rigid.


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## knotscott

jlsanborn said:


> ... I just called on a Rigid contractor's for $300. No experience there, but have heard good things and it looks nice?? Waiting for the call-backs on both the Delta and Rigid.


The Ridgid contractor saws and the Craftsman contractor saws have a great deal in common, and share some ancestry in both design and manufacturer (Emerson and TTI/Ryobi). Many of the parts could be directly interchangeable depending on the era, but I can't say for sure or which ones.


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## jlsanborn

Ahhh, more excellent advice! The Rigid seller says he's negotiable on the $300 mark. The Craftsman is advertised at $200. They do look very similar in design, although the Craftsman has the router fixture. I'm not going to be able to look at either of them tonight, but I'm hoping to scope them out tomorrow. I'm thinking the Delta is out. I talked to the guy and it's 10-15 years old and has only 1 stamped steel wing (the other is lost). He says it's got little use, but it's a bit of a drive in my big arse truck for what he described.


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## thegrgyle

I LOVE my Craftsman Contractors saw that I posted about earlier in this forum. The Router wing is great, but I'm not sure if it will take your router.... You might have to drill some new holes for it, but drilling into the cast top is not hard at all.... I actually have done it for featherboards, and a height adjustment hole as well. If you have only one router, you might think about finding a craftsman that would be somewhat "dedicated" to this saw/router table. I currently own 4 routers, each with their specific uses. I picked 2 of mine up on ebay for roughly 1/2 price, and haven't regretted it since.

If you get the Craftsman contractors saw, and have any questions, feel free to shoot me a PM or even post on here, and I will try to help to the best of my knowledge.

Fabian


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## jlsanborn

*Some assembly required!*

Well, I picked up the Craftsman for $200. It was tough to get a real close look at the seller's house as it was in his overly full garage with a couple 100W bulbs dangling from the rafters. It was apparent that it had little use however, so I snagged it. I got it home and in my shop to realize that it was in pretty sad condition. Just about every screw was loose and lots were missing. Worst issue is that it has clearly been tipped over and the steel frame was a little bit tweaked. I've got it torn completely down and am cleaning it all up now. I'll replace all that wonderful Chinese grade 2 hardware in the process, using a few more lock-washers and some blue loctite in select joints. That erector set roll-round thing it was on is pathetic! I had no intentions of using that anyways.
Don't get me wrong. I am VERY happy with the purchase and would have torn apart any saw I bought anyways. It really has had very little use and it will clean up very nice! :thumbsup:


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## jlsanborn

*Done! Well, almost*

I got the stand all straightened out and put back together with some better hardware. I cleaned, buffed and waxed the table and wings. I had to slightly enlarge a couple holes in the trunion blocks to get the arbor perpindicular (blade runs out to within .005" to slots). I also upgraded that mounting hardware. I was maticulous in mouting the wings (upgraded harware here too) and aligning the fence rails. The fence was easy to square up and seems like it will work well for now. Both pullies had come loose and one grub screw was gone. I got those buttoned down and aligned as best as possible. It dosen't sing like a Uni-Saw, but it is pretty smooth. Next effort will be an outfeed table and 50" extension / fence. I'm going to take a crack at building my own t-square type.

Thanks again for all the advise on this thread that I've hijacked!

John


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## Double

Hope it works well, mine has been flawless so far!


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## knotscott

That saw top is looking great. Fortunately the trunnions are mounted to the top, so any damage to the body shouldn't harm performance much. That Delta looks like a smaller compact saw with a universal motor...you grabbed the better of the two saws IMHO. Nice job all around. Get it aligned and put a good blade on it...you'll be all set. Appreciate the update. :thumbsup:


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## jlsanborn

*This thing will do!*

I built some fence boards (HDPB and P-Lam) today, worked on the motor alignment a bit more and put on a new 60t carbide. It's tuned spot-on and slick as snot, but a smosh under powered and it still vibrates more than I'd like. For $200 and some elbow grease it's probably the best running Craftsman contractor's saw you'd find. I've got a vanity to build here soon and I'll put up some pictures of the results on a new thread, regarding the performance of my saw.
Thanks again!


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## knotscott

The fence faces look great and should add some stiffness to that fence. A 3/32" thin kerf 24T ripping blade like a Freud LU87, CMT 202.024.10, Infinity 010-124, or even a $27 Freud Diablo D1024 should help with perceived cutting power. A link belt or higher quality v-belt should help with vibration. What kind of shape are the pulleys in? 

The saw looks really, really good. Nice job....does my heart good to see someone resurrect a saw like this. :thumbsup:


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## yocalif

jlsanborn, you did an awesome job restoring your TS! You now have a functional saw to get started. You can easily get your money back and maybe an extra $50-100. Personally I would keep checking CL every few days, and get the saw you really want. You have time on your side now, you have a ok saw to keep you working, and you can just wait for the right deal. Plus after this past experience you have a better idea what to look for when you do you buying inspection.

I'm in the same place with my Band saw, I have tweaked and restored it, I only paid $100, and have about $40 in upgrades, I know I can sell it for $200 it looks new and works great. However I want the micro adjust guides on newer BS, and I want better wheels & wheel bearings. I had a shot at a brand new Grizzly for $325, but I didn't have the cash at the time, and stuck hard to my budget actually saving a $100. I know those deals are out there, I can wait, and better yet I now have the money to take advantage when one pops up on CL.

Again great job on your TS


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## thegrgyle

That saw does look great! You did a great job setting that up.

I think I will have to borrow that fence improvement for mine... I like that.

I do use a thin kerf diablo blade in mine most of the time, and think it has plenty of power for most of the wood that I cut. I think you will grow to like this saw more and more....

Fabian


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## jlsanborn

*Thanks!*

Thanks to all for the help and compliments! Work has had me away for the week, with another to come :boat:. After I'm past that, I should have a project to start and see how it works.
John


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## Rhianolord

*very nice job!*



jlsanborn said:


> I got the stand all straightened out and put back together with some better hardware. I cleaned, buffed and waxed the table and wings. I had to slightly enlarge a couple holes in the trunion blocks to get the arbor perpindicular (blade runs out to within .005" to slots). I also upgraded that mounting hardware. I was maticulous in mouting the wings (upgraded harware here too) and aligning the fence rails. The fence was easy to square up and seems like it will work well for now. Both pullies had come loose and one grub screw was gone. I got those buttoned down and aligned as best as possible. It dosen't sing like a Uni-Saw, but it is pretty smooth. Next effort will be an outfeed table and 50" extension / fence. I'm going to take a crack at building my own t-square type.
> 
> Thanks again for all the advise on this thread that I've hijacked!
> 
> John




Recently bought the same exact saw from CL for $220, the saw is in great overall shape and came with the heurcu-lift system. The original owner was an avid woodworker( had a full line of grizzly products, planer, jointer and cabinet saw) 

Your surface looks fantastic!!!

My cast iron surface is in need of some TLC, and I want it to look as nice as yours. Can you run me through process of how you cleaned you surface and extension wings and which materials, cleaners, and waxes you used?

Thanks


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## L1011

jlsanborn said:


> Well, I picked up the Craftsman for $200. It really has had very little use and it will clean up very nice! :thumbsup:


Hi everyone... newbie here (joined today and a newbie to woodworking). I bought this exact saw today and couldn't help but notice you posted a picture of the saw's motor mount. 

I'm wondering, does your motor mount sag towards the right front of the saw? When I look at my motor mount and the adjoining belt, it appears to be skewed to the right. My first thought is to stuff a small 2x4 block between the saw's frame and the pivoting motor mount to sure it up. 

In short, I can't tell if something is wrong, or if this is by design. 

And I agree about the Erector Set rolling cart. Handy, but not a great design. (Edit, just like JLSanborn, I hijacked this thread too  Sorry about that!)


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## knotscott

L1011 said:


> Hi everyone... newbie here (joined today and a newbie to woodworking). I bought this exact saw today and couldn't help but notice you posted a picture of the saw's motor mount.
> 
> I'm wondering, does your motor mount sag towards the right front of the saw? When I look at my motor mount and the adjoining belt, it appears to be skewed to the right. My first thought is to stuff a small 2x4 block between the saw's frame and the pivoting motor mount to sure it up.
> 
> In short, I can't tell if something is wrong, or if this is by design.
> 
> And I agree about the Erector Set rolling cart. Handy, but not a great design. (Edit, just like JLSanborn, I hijacked this thread too  Sorry about that!)


I don't think the sag is by design, but could very be a result of the design. I've seen many of that type of saw motor sag a little. The more important factor is whether or not it runs smoothly or vibrates. If it's running smooth, it's not much of a concern. If it's vibrating and propping up the motor helps, then some fixes are worth persuing....I just don't know what they are from experience.


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## thegrgyle

L1011 said:


> Hi everyone... newbie here (joined today and a newbie to woodworking). I bought this exact saw today and couldn't help but notice you posted a picture of the saw's motor mount.
> 
> I'm wondering, does your motor mount sag towards the right front of the saw? When I look at my motor mount and the adjoining belt, it appears to be skewed to the right. My first thought is to stuff a small 2x4 block between the saw's frame and the pivoting motor mount to sure it up.
> 
> In short, I can't tell if something is wrong, or if this is by design.
> 
> And I agree about the Erector Set rolling cart. Handy, but not a great design. (Edit, just like JLSanborn, I hijacked this thread too  Sorry about that!)


 
Is there a chance you post a pic of the "sagging" that you are referring to? Mine seems to be parallel with the ground, and I don't see a sag, but then again, I haven't really studied is recently. When I go up to the shop I will check it out and let you know.


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## L1011

thegrgyle said:


> Is there a chance you post a pic of the "sagging" that you are referring to? Mine seems to be parallel with the ground, and I don't see a sag, but then again, I haven't really studied is recently. When I go up to the shop I will check it out and let you know.


I'm a bit new to this website so I'm not sure how to post a picture within this thread. I did, however, post a pic of the saggy motor in the "my photos" link. I'm on a mobile device right now but tonight from my PC I'll learn how to post a pic within this thread.


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## knotscott

That's sagging quite a bit. Could be bent, broken, or could need some adjustment.


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## toolguy1000

i have two of those saws (one a c-man, the other a ridgid). any chance for a better shot of the space between the motor base and the motor base support? there is definitely something there that's not right.


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## L1011

toolguy1000 said:


> i have two of those saws (one a c-man, the other a ridgid). any chance for a better shot of the space between the motor base and the motor base support? there is definitely something there that's not right.


Here's a side view as close to perpendicular to the saw's frame as I could get. Here you can see the right side of the motor mount is tilted towards the front of the saw. 








Here's one taken from the floor looking straight up. This is where I'm wondering if a part is missing or something. It seems very odd to me that they'd design a mounting plate that is as flexible as this one. It's clearly bent enough that I could wedge a small piece of 2x4 between it.


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## L1011

thegrgyle said:


> As far as the router wing goes, I have found that every Craftsman router I have fits on the router wing without having to drill any new holes.
> Fabian


Did you have to remove the plastic plate from your router before mounting it to the router wing? I'm not sure if I'm supposed to do this or not. There was no manual that came with my router wing, nor could I find one online. (yup, newbie question, sorry!) :smile:


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## toolguy1000

L1011 said:


> Here's a side view as close to perpendicular to the saw's frame as I could get. Here you can see the right side of the motor mount is tilted towards the front of the saw.
> View attachment 63350
> 
> 
> Here's one taken from the floor looking straight up. This is where I'm wondering if a part is missing or something. It seems very odd to me that they'd design a mounting plate that is as flexible as this one. It's clearly bent enough that I could wedge a small piece of 2x4 between it.
> View attachment 63349


it doesn't look like anything is missing. two things occur to me now that i've looked at my two similar saws. first: the two arrows in the pic below are at the points where the motor mount slides onto the points that receive it on the TS. are the two pins "cocked" in any way or otherwise not mounted correctly? second, the single arrow points to a bolt or pin that should be loose so the motor can pivot on it's lower hinge pin as it is raised and lowered.

if either of those two areas don;t get you any closer to resolution, try removing the splitter mounting bracket (the black thing held on by two hex head screws) entirely and reshoot the top down pic.


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## thegrgyle

Ok, so after seeing your images, I went up to my TS and I measured the distance from the back of the tablesaw housing, and both sides of the bottom of the bracket (where you drew your initial white arrow). they are the same distance. Yours should be too. You may have to place a straight edge (starrett ruler) to span to opening to measure to.

If that isn't the same distance, then you will probably have to either try to fix/bend that back in place, or order a replacement part. From what I can tell here, it is still available. 

Hope this helps.....


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## toolguy1000

wow. $42 for a new motor base. if that's what's needed, PM me. i have one in my spare parts that came off a c-man 113 series saw.


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## L1011

Yes, $42.99 for the motor base plate  . 

I found one on another parts website (not sure if I'm violating any forum rules by posting the name) for $24 but I wasn't sure if those are as good as one from Sears. 

I just bought a new Power Twist Link V-belt for $19.99 (4' length) and also bought a new Bosch 80-tooth blade. Can't wait to try them all out once I fix the mount plate.


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## knotscott

The 80T blade should be great for crosscuts and sheetgoods, but is too many teeth for ripping lumber....24T to 50T would be better depending on how thick and dense.


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## toolguy1000

L1011 said:


> Yes, $42.99 for the motor base plate  .
> 
> I found one on another parts website (not sure if I'm violating any forum rules by posting the name) for $24 but I wasn't sure if those are as good as one from Sears.
> 
> if it's from ereplacements or m&d mower, they are both very reputable sellers of parts.
> 
> I just bought a new Power Twist Link V-belt for $19.99 (4' length) and also bought a new Bosch 80-tooth blade. Can't wait to try them all out once I fix the mount plate.
> 
> just watch the direction arrows on the PT belt as it's placed on the saw.


if that motor plate is bent, it probbly means that saw may have been the victim of trauma in some way. hopefully, replacing the plate will address that alignment issue. and don't forget, when replacing that drive belt, to check the coplanarity of the motor and arbor pulleys.


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## L1011

toolguy1000 said:


> if that motor plate is bent, it probbly means that saw may have been the victim of trauma in some way. hopefully, replacing the plate will address that alignment issue. and don't forget, when replacing that drive belt, to check the coplanarity of the motor and arbor pulleys.


Meaning they both line up directly so the belt doesn't get chewed up?

Also, bought the Ryobi part on Amazon (same part and part # as Sears). I was going to buy it from ereplacements...


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## L1011

knotscott said:


> The 80T blade should be great for crosscuts and sheetgoods, but is too many teeth for ripping lumber....24T to 50T would be better depending on how thick and dense.


Crud, didn't know that. And by crud I mean  

:smile:


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## L1011

knotscott said:


> If it's an '02, the model number will have a "315" prefix....315.######, made by TTI/Ryobi between 1997 and 2004. If it's a 113.######, it's made by Emerson prior to 1997....made in the US. Either are fine at the right price.


It appears the person I bought the saw from lied to me.. Mine is a 315.***. Seller said it was an '07 model. :thumbdown:


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## knotscott

L1011 said:


> Crud, didn't know that. And by crud I mean
> 
> :smile:


Having two blades for two different tasks can be a good thing.....no harm done if you pick up a 24T ripper also to compliment your 80T crosscut/ply blade. Or you can return the 80T and get a good general purpose 40T or 50T blade that'll do a decent job at most tasks, but a great job at none. I'd look to Freud, Forrest, Infinity, CMT, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, DeWalt Precision Trim, Irwin Marples, Amana. 

Picking saw blades


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## L1011

I replaced my motor mount plate and sure enough, it was indeed bent. The motor now appears parallel to the saw's frame. 

What bothers me though is my belt is still off center by about ten degrees. It's as if my motor needs to be pushed to the left about 1/2 inch so the belt will line up correctly with the blade pulley. I'll look into this further when my new link belt arrives mid-week.


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## toolguy1000

the OEm base plate and motor should have slots on it top faciliate alignment. also, the pulleys are designed to slide on the motor and arbor shafts to fine tune pulley coplanarity.


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## mncamperguy

I bought this saw new back in '03. Up until now it has performed well, but as I get more into woodworking and learning (via this site) I have determined that the blade is not parallel to the miter slot. It is out about .015-.020" as checked by a dial indicator.

For those of you that have aligned this saw (several stated so in this thread), how did you do it? _I was going to PM those folks but I don't have enough posts to do so._

Looking at the saw, there were 5-6 bolts going from the blade/motor carrier to the bottom of the table. Will loosening and manipulating this somehow work it into alignment?


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## toolguy1000

what is the model number of the subject saw? it can make a difference.


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## mncamperguy

toolguy1000 said:


> what is the model number of the subject saw? it can make a difference.


Same as the one referenced in the first post: 228390


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## toolguy1000

mncamperguy said:


> Same as the one referenced in the first post: 228390


here's the OM:

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0806480.pdf

see pps. 31 and 32. very similar to a ridgid 2412 i own. loosen 5 bolts enough to move the trunion and leave one of the front or rear corner bolts jjjuuusttt loose enough that a mild blow with a rubber or dead blow mallet will move the opposing trunion left or right. not a difficult operation, just requires a bit of patience. if done properly, a zeroed dial indicator at the infeed of the blade will remain zero when the registration tooth on the blade is rotated to the outfeed side of the table. 

good luck.


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## thegrgyle

mncamperguy said:


> I bought this saw new back in '03. Up until now it has performed well, but as I get more into woodworking and learning (via this site) I have determined that the blade is not parallel to the miter slot. It is out about .015-.020" as checked by a dial indicator.
> 
> For those of you that have aligned this saw (several stated so in this thread), how did you do it? _I was going to PM those folks but I don't have enough posts to do so._
> 
> Looking at the saw, there were 5-6 bolts going from the blade/motor carrier to the bottom of the table. Will loosening and manipulating this somehow work it into alignment?


It really is a bear to do, unless you have another strong helper with you, or have no problem working in very awkward positions.

The way I did it, was to take the saw off its stand, and put on a table. I then propped up the front with a 2x4 (cut to length) so that I had access to the trunnion bolts. I then raised the blade up all the way, and measured the difference between the front and back of the blade. When measureing, I also made sure to measure from the same tooth (that I marked). I would spin the blade forwards/backwards to get it to the front or back. Once I knew which way I needed to adjust the blade, I loosened up most of the bolts, but leaving one somewhat still snug. Then I would tweak the trunnion with a persuader (rubber mallet), and re measure. Once I was within my accepted tolerances, I started to tighten the bolts, snugging them all up equally. After getting them somewhat snug, I would remeasure. It is fairly common for the trunnion to misalign itself in the tightening process, so take your time and be gentle. It can also test your patience. Once I got the bolts tightened down, then it was just a matter of putting the saw back on the stand. 

Before you put the saw back on the stand, you should think about making some sort of Dust collection for the stand to collect the dust. I did when I aligned the blade. You can see it here. I never regretted doing it, that is for sure.

Hope this helps.


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## sharbin

Out of curiosity, what would be an acceptable margin if error in alignment? Is .015" unacceptable? Since this does seem to be a fairly tedious effort, I'm wondering if it is justified. I need to remeasure, but I think mine is even more misaligned than this.


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## knotscott

sharbin said:


> Out of curiosity, what would be an acceptable margin if error in alignment? Is .015" unacceptable? Since this does seem to be a fairly tedious effort, I'm wondering if it is justified. I need to remeasure, but I think mine is even more misaligned than this.


+/- 0.003" would be good. If all else fails with getting the blade parallel to the miter slot, get it as close as you can, then adjust the fence parallel with the blade.


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## mncamperguy

*Blade Guard installation*

I am back with a different issue. So I have been running this saw without the guarding since I bought it. I have decided that this is no longer acceptable. Searched around found all the hardware to mount the blade guard and ran into an alignment issue. See the photos. 
Basically, the "throat" of the knife/guard assembly is not deep enough. You can see in the photo that when placed, there is space between the guard and the rear bracket, the same space exists in the front of the guard where it is supposed to mount to the saw. Per the manual there are no spacers needed and should mount up. 

Before I cut it out I figured I would reach out here. My only concern with cutting it out, I could have interference issues if blade is fully up (I have never run it at that height, only for alignment checking).

Have any of you had this issue? Maybe someone with the same saw could measure the throat depth of their knife?
Model number is 315.228390.


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## knotscott

I'm wondering what's causing that gap. Is the mount bent? Is the trunnion carriage tightened fully against the underside of the table? Or are there any thick washers forcing the carriage to "ride low" relative to the table top?


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## mncamperguy

knotscott said:


> I'm wondering what's causing that gap. Is the mount bent? Is the trunnion carriage tightened fully against the underside of the table? Or are there any thick washers forcing the carriage to "ride low" relative to the table top?


The mount is not bent. My first thought as well was the carriage was low, took a minute to double check and it is all tight to the table, nothing in between carriage and table. 
I can't believe it would be, but it feels like the Riving knife was made wrong.


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## mncamperguy

Just got home and more inspection. The trunnion is loose. I must have only looked at one of the three bolts last night. Middle and right are loose and almost out. I am lucky nothing bad happened last time I ran it..


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## toolguy1000

mncamperguy said:


> ......it feels like the Riving knife was made wrong.


FTR, your saw has a splitter, not a riving knife which moves up and down as the blade's elevation is adjusted. did tightening the trunion bolts remedy your splitter issue?


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## mncamperguy

toolguy1000 said:


> FTR, your saw has a splitter, not a riving knife which moves up and down as the blade's elevation is adjusted. did tightening the trunion bolts remedy your splitter issue?


I agree with your definition of a riving knife. The manual calls it a knife so I did as well. Is that because the manual is from '02 and since that time the terminology has changed, or is a mistake on Craftsman's part?


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## toolguy1000

mncamperguy said:


> I agree with your definition of a riving knife. The manual calls it a knife so I did as well. Is that because the manual is from '02 and since that time the terminology has changed, or is a mistake on Craftsman's part?


could be either or both. i try to follow the industry's definitions. if the device that prevents the saw kerf from closing onto the work piece is stationary relative to blade's elevation, it's a splitter. if the device that prevents that kerf from closing onto the work piece rises and falls with the elevation of the blade, it's a riving knife.

did tightening the trunion bolts resolve your splitter mounting issue?


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## mncamperguy

Yes tightening the trunnion bolts allowed me to get the splitter on. 

Even better news was that once it was all bolted back up and tight, the blade to miter slot alignment was 0.001". I remember now as I was doing this that I had loosened the bolts to correct the alignment (it was around 0.009") a few months back but got sidetracked (had twin baby girls). I had to finish a job recently and they must have worked themselves really loose. It was at the end of this job that the front of a board jumped on me as I was ripping and the kerf on another started to close that got me really nervous and triggered all of this.

All is good now, tuned up and safer....

My new shop protocol is that if a machine is left not ready to use, leave a note on it, you never know when you will be back.


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## toolguy1000

glad it all worked out, simply and inexpensively.


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