# We milled poplar trees for flooring, what now???



## abutrflyangel (Jan 18, 2016)

We had our poplar trees milled into 1x6 and 1x8 boards to originally lay in place of osb/plywood. We have now changed our mind and decided to lay this as our actual flooring instead of subflooring. We really have no woodworking experience. So..........how do we proceed from here??
We like the country/old fashioned (and character) look of butting boards up instead of trying to make it into tongue and groove. But we don't want huge gaps in the floor over time either. Any advice or website tutorial? books for dummies?  TIA.

Glue, nail, screw, cutting the back, paper/felt in between.....not even sure what questions I need to ask....


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It's up to you but I think poplar is too soft for flooring. I really wouldn't like the flooring ran without the tongue and groove. The boards will warp a little, it's wood, it's what it does. You might have one board bow down and the one next to it bow up creating a place where you could trip over. It needs something to keep the boards level with each other. If you didn't want to run an actual tongue and groove you might consider running a groove in both sides and putting a spline in the joint. 

As far as the glue, you don't want to glue them to each other. Depending on where it's going you might use some liquid nails on the joists where you lay it. That would prevent the floor from creaking when you walk on it.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I'm no flooring expert but ....*

Pine has been used for hundreds of years for flooring and it's a soft wood also. Southern Yellow Pine is pretty hard/tough/durable however, so you would have to test out what you have. A "distressed" look has been popular for a long time and you can appreciate any bumps or dents if that the look you want. A "mirror like" gloss finish would be the last thing I would want or do. A renewable finish like an oil stain would be what I would use.

Here's a hardness chart, but Poplar is not to be found:









http://www.answers.com/Q/Where_on_the_janka_scale_is_poplar_wood

*Poplar has a rating of 540.*


----------



## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

*Janka Specie Name* 
350 Buckeye Burl 
380 Aspen 
410 Basswood 
470 Guanacaste (Parota) 
490 Butternut 
540 American Chestnut 
*540* *Poplar* 
540 Mappa Burl 
600 Spanish Cedar 
800 Genuine Mahogany 
840 Leopardwood 
850 Quilted Western Maple 
850 Western Maple Burl 
850 Curly Western Maple 
850 Black Ash 
*870 Southern Yellow Pine*


----------



## abutrflyangel (Jan 18, 2016)

I've seen a few websites that sell poplar for flooring but it's already finished. I did run across a forum where someone described in lots of detail about doing their floor in poplar. Since that's what I have already paid for and have on hand, I'm gonna try it. Someone in the other forum mentioned making some kind of cut on the back of each board that was 1/2 as deep as the board itself. What is the purpose? Is this something I should consider. Also someone mentioned laying the floors, in 6 mos, pulling them up and rebutting them then finishing and staining...........why the extra work?
Thanks for the info you have provided I see where your concern might be but around here it is actually popular to use in homes (just haven't personally heard of someone doing their floors, other than subfloors)


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Wood flooring often has a relief cut on the back side. It shouldn't go half way into the board. It just relieves some of the stresses in the wood to prevent warpage since the top side is finished and the underside isn't. The cut should only be around 1/8" to 3/16" deep.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

8" is way too wide for hardwood flooring. It will warp. I have had hickory, ash and pine for flooring. The hardwoods have held up drastically better than the pine. You will need to have tongue and groove, and relive cuts on the bottom.


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

abutrflyangel said:


> I've seen a few websites that sell poplar for flooring but it's already finished. I did run across a forum where someone described in lots of detail about doing their floor in poplar. Since that's what I have already paid for and have on hand, I'm gonna try it. Someone in the other forum mentioned making some kind of cut on the back of each board that was 1/2 as deep as the board itself. What is the purpose? Is this something I should consider. Also someone mentioned laying the floors, in 6 mos, pulling them up and rebutting them then finishing and staining...........why the extra work?
> Thanks for the info you have provided I see where your concern might be but around here it is actually popular to use in homes (just haven't personally heard of someone doing their floors, other than subfloors)


Poplar is a softer than oak BUT it can be beautiful DEPENDING on your taste and definition. I personally like seeing the old poplar floors with the dents and age marks. I've read articles where people take chains and beat the floors for that "look".

This is what first needs to be done....DRY the wood PROPERLY!!!! The ones that advised you put it down, take it back up later and reset is IMPROPERLY dried wood due to being CHEAP and skipping steps!! MOST houses now a days have heat and air systems and the MC in them average approx 9% and that's why we have to kiln dry now as to 40-50 yrs ago we could just AD and be fine on the inside to to lack of insulation and more fresh air inside.
2nd I've seen a lapped flooring from OLD log houses BUT T&G is the norm now. I have seen the plain face nailing/screwed but the 6"+ wide boards will move more (it's noticed more due to less cracks which =shows more movement as MC changes during seasons....Think about it 120" width of wood is still 120" but with 3" boards thats 40 cracks and 6" planks is 20 joints so whatever the movement it's divided by # of joints so the cracks would show twice as much with 6"). Jointing is also a preference choice of yours but my opinion is T&G it.
ALL wood moves BUT we can take steps to control it. the grooving of the back also helps air movement to balance MC on the underside PLUS makes flooring lay better as MC changes and not cupping as bad. Wider boards are beautiful but they tend to cup worse.
I think I would use the poplar as you already have it cut...IT'LL be BEAUTIFUL!!! Enjoy your project and PLEASE post us some pics as you go along.
I hope this helps.


----------



## Ibangwood (Feb 25, 2010)

It's not about the wood density.. It's the finish you put on top


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Any decisions??? You making flooring???


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Ibangwood said:


> It's not about the wood density.. It's the finish you put on top


 Not completely true. A finish can't protect against dents.


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

hWebb....how's the snow up there???? we're done to 4" and falling fast on top of that.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Tennessee Tim said:


> hWebb....how's the snow up there???? we're done to 4" and falling fast on top of that.


 Maybe 2" currently. We are supposed to get more this afternoon and tomorrow. We got about 2" Wednesday, but it mostly melted yesterday.


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Sorry the net went out shortly. Haven't been to the farm BUT I got pics of 7-8" from the neighbor there. As it tapers off we may get 1-2 more inches depending on how it swirls on out of here.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Really?*



hwebb99 said:


> 8" is way too wide for hardwood flooring. It will warp. I have had hickory, ash and pine for flooring. The hardwoods have held up drastically better than the pine. You will need to have tongue and groove, and relive cuts on the bottom.


Wide plank flooring is all over the internet, for example widths in 8", 10" up to 20" .....
http://www.wideplankflooring.com/custom-wood-flooring/widths


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

That doesn't mean it is a good idea and won't warp.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's been used for about 100 years or more*



hwebb99 said:


> That doesn't mean it is a good idea and won't warp.



See Tim's post no. 8 regarding drying.
http://homemillwork.com/installing-wide-plank-flooring/

It may warp if not dried properly, as shown in this video, there are very wide planks:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7focJeab0pM#t=20


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Thanks woodnthings!!! That is a great link on installing correctly and the correct storage with RH %.....so many things commonly overlooked!!! Nothing wrong with wide, JUST KNOW the limitations or effects of making it work properly. 

We see SO MANY posts here with wood issues which 90% of the time are MC issues or related with MC movement. ALL things move by heat/cold or moisture or both including steel, vinyl, earth, wood, glass, etc., etc. Knowing their properties is very important. Drying properly is the most important part of the equation.


----------



## Pop Pop (Jul 17, 2011)

Tennessee Tim is correct as usual. If the poplar is properly dried it will make an outstanding floor. It is not as hard as hickory but it is harder than pine. In wide planks it will make a very interesting floor. The key is properly dried and acclimated to the house. 

Go for it!


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Pop Pop said:


> Tennessee Tim is correct as usual. If the poplar is properly dried it will make an outstanding floor. It is not as hard as hickory but it is harder than pine. In wide planks it will make a very interesting floor. The key is properly dried and acclimated to the house. Go for it!


 I think that would depend on the type of pine. I know that some pine yields significantly better BTUs than popular when used as firewood.


----------



## Pop Pop (Jul 17, 2011)

I don't think I would pick flooring based on btu content! Poplar, in general is harder than pine, yellow pine excepted..


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

hwebb99 said:


> I think that would depend on the type of pine. I know that some pine yields significantly better BTUs than popular when used as firewood.


????? BTU's and Janka are two different ratings....I'm sure there is some related similarities. there are some pines I believe should have a higher Janka rating...IF not I'd be surprised....like maybe heart pine....and there's nothing harder than a pine knot!!!


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I think that a harder wood almost always gives more BTUs for a given volume.


----------



## Ibangwood (Feb 25, 2010)

Sure, it can't protect against dents if something crazy heavy falls on it. Don't drop a table on it


----------



## abutrflyangel (Jan 18, 2016)

Thanks for all the input! We are def. gonna try the poplar floor. I have saved the link to that video so I can watch it.
Tennessee Tim, you give me hope!!
We ended up w/close to a foot of snow here. 
As for dents, I don't mind natural wear, dents and dings....I have 3 boys! Hopefully, they don't body slam a table on it.  
How long do you suggest drying the wood? It is already cut and I really don't have a budget or know anything about getting it kiln dried.


----------



## abutrflyangel (Jan 18, 2016)

What do you suggest for a finish?


----------

