# Ideas for attaching these arm rests.



## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

I was thinking of slotting with the router and 1/4" plywood spline, 1/2" deep in both pieces the length of the arm.


----------



## woodworking-videos (Jul 31, 2013)

Biscuits may be fine too.

------
http://woodworking-videos.com/
Videos to fill your wooden soul.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*how is this....*



woodworking-videos said:


> Biscuits may be fine too.
> 
> ------
> http://woodworking-videos.com/
> Videos to fill your wooden soul.


Robert Bahn why do you have other folks' You Tube Videos listed on your website?

What is your purpose for that?

The subject order is random and the authors are from many sources, so I don't get it as an easy way to look up information from either. :blink: I can't say it's spam, but it comes close in my opinion. An explanation would be helpful as we like woodworkers who can show their projects or ask questions about specific issues with a sketch or a photo. :yes:


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*back to the regular programming*

I'm thinking a routed groove that would allow the arm rest to slide over the side panel. How would you do that? I'm thinking a dado bit with a bearing that would follow the curvature. You'd have to hand chisel the intersection where the top meets the curve. Personally, I like to make the joint itself structural rather than relying on dowels, biscuits or other means. JMO.


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Bill, 

I'm trying to imagine how that could be done.

In my mind you'd have to use a very tall aux router fence in order to complete the cut with the router bit vertical or a horizontal router setup using the table as support.

Either way the short leg of the assembly and a good portion of the curved component will have to be hand mortised because the glue up is a done deal.

Your thoughts?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I would rout a groove in the arm with a rabbeting bit with a bearing.









 







.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*hand held router*



jharris2 said:


> Bill,
> 
> I'm trying to imagine how that could be done.
> 
> ...


I'd make a rest for the router base the same thickness as the arm.
I'd secure the arm with a curved backer that captured it on both ends. I'd also want to do this from both sides a little at a time. It requires flipping the fixture over for the other side. I called it a dado bit, but in any case it requires a bearing to establish the depth of cut and follow the profile. different size bearings can be used if the depth of cut is too great initially.

Sketchup is a great tool for the design, but unfortunately doesn't solve the "process" or joinery issues. :no:


----------



## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

I have a slot cutter on a 1/2" arbor shaft with a guide bearing. I thought about rabbbiting it but that makes some hand work at the ends.
Maybe we are talking the same thing.


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

That's an idea but it would require twice the setup, twice the cuts, twice the chiseling, and a greater degree of accuracy (smaller tolerances).

IMO you're better off with a dado.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mics_54 said:


> I have a slot cutter on a 1/2" arbor shaft with a guide bearing. I thought about rabbbiting it but that makes some hand work at the ends.
> Maybe we are talking the same thing.
> 
> View attachment 76909


If the arm is wider than the panel, it could be a slot cutter, with a few passes. Then the arm fits on the panel. You could do it with a slot cutter and make a shaped spline like you sketched. It just seems chincy having the arm teetering on the panel with only a spline. It would likely work though.

Or, you could make the attachment look somewhat custom, by using contrasting dowels and drilling it right through the top of the arm into the panel, and sand flat. Maybe install them like every 3" or so.


















.


----------



## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

The 1/4" spline is what was concerning me. Through dowels was my other thought. I thought of gluing it in place and when dry, adding the dowels.

The arm is flush with the panel on the seat side so that I can open the seat for storage with out complicating the box lid.


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> ...Or, you could make the attachment look somewhat custom, by using contrasting dowels and drilling it right through the top of the arm into the panel, and sand flat. Maybe install them like every 3" or so.


Great idea!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mics_54 said:


> The 1/4" spline is what was concerning me. Through dowels was my other thought. I thought of gluing it in place and when dry, adding the dowels.
> 
> The arm is flush with the panel on the seat side so that I can open the seat for storage with out complicating the box lid.



The more I think about the dowels, the more I like the idea. I would arrange the grain on the dowels the same.








 







.


----------



## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

Ah I think this is what you mean with the rabbit.
This would work easily as well. The dowels would probably be easier though. I could even use screws to attach it till the glue dries...then remove the screws and then install the dowels.:thumbsup:









The problem with the rabbit at this point is it reduces the height of my panel


----------



## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)




----------



## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)




----------

