# Trim for a sunken living room



## JBravo

Hello

I'm trying to come up with a way to trim my step down in a sunken living room. None of the trim in the adjacent hallway or in the sunken living room has been installed yet. I've just placed it there for reference of the types of trim that I am going to be using.

I am having trouble deciding what to use on the sides of the tile that comes down into the living room. The living room has laminate flooring and I will use a piece of matching quarter round for where the tile meets the laminate flooring (as seen in the picture)

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks in advance


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## woodnthings

*Suggestion*

Just wrap the upper molding around the corner the same width.
Below that use a solid length that same width to the floor. Butt the lower molding into the solid on the rightside and the qtr round butts to the other side.
You can use a plinth block if that fits into the style of your room with a rosette or other beading effect in the solid vertical.:thumbsup: bill


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## weswesterfield

JBravo said:


> Hello
> 
> I'm trying to come up with a way to trim my step down in a sunken living room. None of the trim in the adjacent hallway or in the sunken living room has been installed yet. I've just placed it there for reference of the types of trim that I am going to be using.
> 
> I am having trouble deciding what to use on the sides of the tile that comes down into the living room. The living room has laminate flooring and I will use a piece of matching quarter round for where the tile meets the laminate flooring (as seen in the picture)
> 
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance


 don't forget you have two different rooms. it is not nesesary to allow the two rooms to flow together. You can create a mitered return on both the top and bottom. Looks like there used to be some sort of trim there so that would have to be cleaned u a bit. If you do want to tie the two rooms together turn the corner at the top with your 3 1/4" trim with a 45 degree bevel. Take a piece of your lower base, rip the bottom down to your desired trim width then create the opposite bevel for both the top and bottom.


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## Dejure

1) If the upper piece extended into the next (lower) room, you could do an "outside (vertical) 45 on it. 

2) A new piece would run horizontal and would have a (vertical) 45 on the left mating with the existing molding of the upper room. On its right would be a diagonal 45.

3) Another new piece would run vertical and have a diagonal 45 on its top to mate with the previous piece. It would have another diagonal 45 to meet the existing horizontal in the lower room.

ALTERNATELY

A simple 1x running vertical and against which the lower molding would butt. The upper would just have a return (a small 45 running only the distance (as wide as) the thickness of the molding to cover the endgrain of the molding.

This 1x method could have flutes, cove routered edges, medallions, or whatever fit your design scheme.


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## Leakygoose

Could use a plinth block that stops under the top base and then rap the top base around on top of it with a mitered returned end.
Bottom base butt into the block, of coarse the block will have to lay over a little of the tile and may have to be fitted /chiseled to lay flat ,a little bit of construction adhesive will help hold it when the vacuum comes crashing by,a couple nails on the one side might not be enough.


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## Mick Turner

Hopefully my attachment works


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## ihackwood

awesome mick, i would say make it stand proud, of the base and chamfer the edges or ogee,


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