# How to get by without planer



## ericw (Jul 2, 2010)

I'd like to make some projects with pallet wood, but I'm trying not to buy every tool in sight. I think a planer (and jointer) would make my life much easier, but I'm not sure I can justify the cost.

What problems will I encounter with just using a random orbital sander & a table saw? Any tricks to make that work better?

What's a reasonable cost for a used planer, and what would I need to look for if I went that route?


----------



## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

There are jigs to use a table saw act as a jointer, but perhaps not a planer. Not sure if uneven surfaces can be considered part of pallet furniture charm... Or if you can justify the one time planer cost against the endless savings of free pallet wood.


----------



## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I guess it comes down to what type of projects are you planning on doing. I would expect that if you are working with pallets the length is limited, around 3 or 4 feet. An older 4 inch jointer might be something to look at. They can be gotten at very reasonable prices. 

If you need to get to a specific thickness then you need a thickness planer. Just keep in mind that a portable planner is not intended for doing large volumes of wood. Just watch out for nails.

You could always get a few hand planes in various sizes such as No. 4, 5 and 6 or 7.

Good luck

Paul


----------



## JMartel (Nov 30, 2011)

You can use a router and a jig for thicknessing as well. You will need to sand it or hand plane it dead flat though. 

Or hand planes. 

Planers would be faster and easier though.


----------



## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

+ JMartel,

Hand plane..


----------



## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

I too am working with pallet wood and find most of the boards to be cupped and/or bowed. In my case I jointed the edges using my table saw, glued them together then proceeded to flatten the surface of it using a hand plane. This method will work if the boards are different thicknesses and cupped. But if the boards are severely bowed, I usually toss them. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

I would use a hand plane.Learn to sharpen and set them up correctly and they are wonderful tool.You will spend days sanding down pallet wood with a ros and still not get it flat and true.


----------



## vinnypatternmaker (Mar 27, 2011)

*Planer*

Hi!
A jointer you will need.
Decent used planers come in at ebay for around $300.00 .

There is an alternative, however: ask any ol' pattermaker or luthier and they will steer you to the Wagner Saf-t Planer!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wagner-Safe...aultDomain_0&hash=item3390199a8c#ht_158wt_922

Roughly $55.00 used. Be sure it comes with sharpening accessories!

Oh, and you'll need a drill press :thumbsup:. It's really quite safe BTW!

Best,
Marena and Vinny


----------



## ericw (Jul 2, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies. My wife ended up looking on craigslist and set up a time to go look at a little 4 1/8" jointer last night (thinking it and a thickness planer were the same thing). The guy ended up having a older 10" delta planer as well. One thing led to another... and now I have both of 'em.

This will make pallet projects a lot easier.

Now I just need a drill press, griding wheel, whetsones, spindle sander, router table, jig saw, band saw... 
This should be my last purchase for a while... is there a Tool Addict Anonymous?


----------



## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

Awesome find. Enjoy. I am jealous now. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Nice haul Eric,

Because you'll be working with reclaimed lumber I suggest you invest in a metal detector.

You don't want to find nails with your planer etc.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

You can edge joint with a TS or router, but it's much tougher to face joint using those tools, and face jointing is the step the makes the board truly flat. Without a planer it's much harder to get boards to a uniform thickness that are parallel on both sides. Without flat square stock at uniform thickness with parallel faces, things get tough to predict because there's no true reference point. A decent hand plane can help. Sanding can smooth a surface, but is not a great method for removing large quantities of material, and most hand sanders won't give square or true flat results.

Those two tools you picked up will help a lot!


----------



## ericw (Jul 2, 2010)

@jharris2 - Great point, I'll need to get one. So much for that being my last purchase for a while.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Good find. Now get that metal detector. A nail or any metal slivers that find their way to your planer's blades, will ruin them instantly. Be diligent with your board inspection routine.

Most of the pallets I broke down came from the same location (behind a Big Lots or 99 cents store). The boards vary in species and hardly ever the same thickness, so your joiner and planer should come in handy.

Now you can make some crates!


----------



## ericw (Jul 2, 2010)

Anyone know of a cheap metal detector model that can even detect staples?


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

I bought mine from Rocker Eric.

It was the less expensive model for around $30.00 I think.

The sensitivity can be adjusted.

Its also important to do a careful visual inspection as well as using the metal detector. Use a pin lunch to push through any holes you can't see through.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Mine came from harbor freight.


----------



## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

ericw said:


> Anyone know of a cheap metal detector model that can even detect staples?


Any rocks or small stone debris will ruin some blades as well and a metal detector will not find those if they are imbedded in the wood.

I swap to 'crap' blades when running any sort of 'questionable' material. Better to spend an extra hour changing blades back and forth than to ruin a good set of knives... :thumbsup:


----------



## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

ericw said:


> Anyone know of a cheap metal detector model that can even detect staples?


 I found a real cheap method. I have some rare earth magnets from Woodcraft that are very powerful. If I slide one along the length of the board it will instantly jump to the spot where the metal is. I have detected metal up to a 1/2" deep with this method.


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

ericw said:


> @jharris2 - Great point, I'll need to get one. So much for that being my last purchase for a while.


You will find very few woodworkers with cobwebs on their wallets.:laughing:


----------



## MrUnix (Mar 31, 2013)

ericw said:


> Anyone know of a cheap metal detector model that can even detect staples?


This one from HF works great. Keep an eye out as they typically go on sale every other month for around $10, then use your 20% off coupon. Also works great for pinpointing when I'm out in the field with my full sized metal detector.









Cheers,
Brad


----------



## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I think that the earth magnets that JoeB talked about is a good idea. 

In my case, I bought a cheap one at HF with the 20% coupon I got a hand held metal detector and free flash light for $14. I don't know how good it is, but the price was right.

Paul


----------



## ericw (Jul 2, 2010)

Thanks. I think I'll try to keep an eye on HF for that metal detector.


----------

