# Cutsom made "WYE" fittings using PVC pipe



## thegrgyle

This is how I am custom making some “WYE” fittings for my DC. I can’t believe how expensive PVC fittings are, and frankly, I was having a heck of a time locating the ones I needed for my Delta DC rework thread. By custom making the fittings, I will be able to have them in multiple directions, and in a shorter length of pipe as well.

First I go to this site and enter in the info needed. (OD of main pipe, OD of branch pipe) Then I print out the pages, and tape them together, making sure to line up the alignment marks in the corners like below.










After you have it taped together, then you cut along the curved line, and you end up with something like this…..










The next step is to wrap it around the branch pipe, and trace the pattern onto it. 


















The next step is to ROUGH cut them out. I used a few different tools for this, including my BS, and multitool.


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## thegrgyle

Then I get the old dremel tool out and install a cutting bit in it like the one picture below. You could use a disc, but I don’t have much luck with those. They are too fragile, and, IMO, take too long to cut thru the pipe.









Now I proceed to cut to the line on the most of the branch, just cutting perpendicular to the surface of the pipe. You DON’T want to do this in the throat of the fitting as picture below. This will be explained in a little bit. 










Now it is time to start shaping the edges to make sure they will have as much surface area as possible to glue to the main. I start by grinding/cutting the area in the throat. As I cut/grind, I want to pay attention to the outer line, and not go past it. The reason we didn’t cut to the line earlier, is because the inside surface of the pipe actually sticks out further than the outside surface, due to the angle. I use a straight edge to determine if I have cut the correct angle.


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## thegrgyle

I then flip the pipe, and work on the other end. I know now that since I cut to the actual line earlier, that I can just work on the inside of the pipe, grinding at the angle I need until I reach the outside of the pipe, and I get that angle cut correctly.










Now here is a pic to show you what I mean by having to cut the angle correctly to get the most surface area to glue to. Look at the 10 inch mark where the rule hits the pvc pipe. 










So you then proceed to grind/cut the rest of the pipe, using your ruler as a guide as to where you need to remove material. Once you are done, it should look something like this.










If you look at it from the main pipes perspective, it should look like the pic below. Notice how it SHOULD lay flat on the main pipe. If you see a portion of the inside of the pipe that will be preventing it from lying flat, then grind it down till the fitting lays correctly.










Below is a pic of all 4 on the 5” main that they will eventually be attached to. They took me about 1 ½ hours to make.










The next step is to cut out the hole in the main branch, but I am not ready to do so just yet. When I do, I will update this thread.


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## captainawesome

That is a great tip! Looks to be a little time consuming, but well worth it if you need a custom setup on the cheap. Do you have a link to the site you use?


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## thegrgyle

The link should be on the original now.... I forgot to link it, but now it should work. IF it doesn't, This is the site I went to, in order to get the layout sheets printed up.


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## tcleve4911

I'm glued to this thread ....:laughing:

Really though...very interesting Fabian...thanks.


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## Bob Willing

thegrgyle said:


> The link should be on the original now.... I forgot to link it, but now it should work. IF it doesn't, This is the site I went to, in order to get the layout sheets printed up.


 
Great tips, if you have a OSS that would make your forming easier. I use one all of the time to shape red oak. I bought mine at Menards when it was on sale about 5 years ago for $84. It is the same one that now sells for over $100. This has been one of my best investments. If I want to sand on an angle I make a wedge to hold the part. My table is stationary. I know Homedepot sells a tilting table but their OSS does not go up to 3" drum.


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## mdntrdr

Nice job! :thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle

Bob Willing said:


> Great tips, if you have a OSS that would make your forming easier. I use one all of the time to shape red oak. I bought mine at Menards when it was on sale about 5 years ago for $84. It is the same one that now sells for over $100. This has been one of my best investments. If I want to sand on an angle I make a wedge to hold the part. My table is stationary. I know Homedepot sells a tilting table but their OSS does not go up to 3" drum.


That is a great call there, Bob. I do own a OSS, and use it quite a bit. I will maybe use it to "refine" the cuts when it comes to glue up time. To bad they don't make a 5 1/2" spindle that is 9 inches tall.... then it would be a perfect fit.:yes: I guess I could use my largest, which I think is around 2".


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## Dave Paine

thegrgyle said:


> That is a great call there, Bob. I do own a OSS, and use it quite a bit. I will maybe use it to "refine" the cuts when it comes to glue up time. To bad they don't make a 5 1/2" spindle that is 9 inches tall.... then it would be a perfect fit.:yes: I guess I could use my largest, which I think is around 2".


How about a poor mans spindle sander. Not easy to make this also oscillate. Off-the-cuff thought just popped into my head.

Cut a piece of the PVC pipe and cover with self adhesive abrasive from a roll. I normally keep 3in wide rollls on hand.

Cut plywood ends to fit on either end of the pipe and drill 5/16in holes.

Get some 5/16in rod and cut a section a few inches longer than the pipe.

Drill a hole in a piece of plywood to fit an in-line roller blade bearing. I will happily send you one if you want to use the idea.

Mount the rod through the plywood ends, and one end in the drill press chuck and the other in the plywood. Clamp the plywood so it does not rotate.

Start the drill on slow. You will likely need to tweak the position of the plywood/bearing so that the rod runs true.

If you do use the idea, please post pictures.


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## Fastback

Good information, excellent work and great pictures:thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle

Dave Paine said:


> How about a poor mans spindle sander. Not easy to make this also oscillate. Off-the-cuff thought just popped into my head.
> 
> Cut a piece of the PVC pipe and cover with self adhesive abrasive from a roll. I normally keep 3in wide rollls on hand.
> 
> Cut plywood ends to fit on either end of the pipe and drill 5/16in holes.
> 
> Get some 5/16in rod and cut a section a few inches longer than the pipe.
> 
> Drill a hole in a piece of plywood to fit an in-line roller blade bearing. I will happily send you one if you want to use the idea.
> 
> Mount the rod through the plywood ends, and one end in the drill press chuck and the other in the plywood. Clamp the plywood so it does not rotate.
> 
> Start the drill on slow. You will likely need to tweak the position of the plywood/bearing so that the rod runs true.
> 
> If you do use the idea, please post pictures.


 
After I mentioned my last comment, I was thinking along the same lines. I just might do this. I think I have a bearing or two that might work.. If not, I might take you up on your offer.

Thanks for the idea. You brought up a couple things I didn't think about, like the bearing.


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## Dave Paine

thegrgyle said:


> After I mentioned my last comment, I was thinking along the same lines. I just might do this. I think I have a bearing or two that might work.. If not, I might take you up on your offer.
> 
> Thanks for the idea. You brought up a couple things I didn't think about, like the bearing.


Great minds think alike. :thumbsup:

I am happy if the idea proves of use. I feel building off each others ideas is one of the desired benefits of the forum.

Having a lathe has increased my sensitivity to items needing to run true.

I have turned a few spindle shapes where I needed to remove the tailstock for drilling and have experienced the challenges of things being out of round.

I have observed even 3in long 5/16in dia bolts do not run true. Not a surprise since this is not a normal requirement for a stationary bolt.

Threaded rod may either not be as straight as needed for use as a sanding mandrel, or could flex without the end support.


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## Bob Willing

Dave Paine said:


> Great minds think alike. :thumbsup:
> 
> I am happy if the idea proves of use. I feel building off each others ideas is one of the desired benefits of the forum.
> 
> Having a lathe has increased my sensitivity to items needing to run true.
> 
> I have turned a few spindle shapes where I needed to remove the tailstock for drilling and have experienced the challenges of things being out of round.
> 
> I have observed even 3in long 5/16in dia bolts do not run true. Not a surprise since this is not a normal requirement for a stationary bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> Threaded rod may either not be as straight as needed for use as a sanding mandrel, or could flex without the end support.


If you have a cullet chuck you could turn your drum on the lathe and use the tail stock to support the threaded rod, but you will need to first drill a center hole in the rod. Remember to make the sanding drum one size smaller than ths dia you need because of the added sand paper thickness.


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## thegrgyle

Bob Willing said:


> If you have a cullet chuck you could turn your drum on the lathe and use the tail stock to support the threaded rod, but you will need to first drill a center hole in the rod. Remember to make the sanding drum one size smaller than ths dia you need because of the added sand paper thickness.


and yet another reason that I need a lathe.... Someday I will get one, but those are some great suggestions. I will keep that in mind if I ever get one.


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## Bob Willing

*No threaded rod needed*

One more idea turn a drum between centers to a dia smaller than you need based on the type of sand paper used. You could use contact cement to adhear the paper and that way you would have an exact diameter needed.


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## Dave Paine

Bob Willing said:


> *No threaded rod needed*
> 
> One more idea turn a drum between centers to a dia smaller than you need based on the type of sand paper used. You could use contact cement to adhear the paper and that way you would have an exact diameter needed.


Good idea for the lathe owners. Saves the rod, bearing and gets the correct diameter. :thumbsup:

May have to glue a number of rough cut circular sections of e.g., plywood together. I have seen people do this for home made drum sanders, then turn to final diameter.

Fabian does not have this option at the moment though.


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## DaveTTC

Cool thread One day I'll be building a dust collecting system I hope.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Shop Dad

+1 Cool thread. Tuning in.


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