# Need help with drawers



## Sabres78 (Jul 9, 2008)

Hi All,
I’m pretty new to all this. I’ve been reading and absorbing from this site for a little while, but I haven’t tackled too many projects, some shelves and a small table is about it. I've drawn up a stand/shelves unit I'm going to attempt and I want it to have a couple drawers. I’d like some guidance on constructing the drawers. They are making me a little nervous, like I'll get them set and never be able to open them again! Or when when I try to open them the whole thing shifts and I end up with a trapezoid!:blink:

There will be 2 drawers and the openings are 31” wide by 14” deep, one 6” and one 8” high. I’d like them to sit flush with the face of the stand. I’m honestly not even sure where to start. I'd planned to make them from plywood. Is that okay? How thick? How should they be put together so they’ll be sturdy? How do I get them to be flush with the front when closed? I’m sure there are other questions I should be asking that I don’t even know of. Or maybe I'm just being paranoid. Some tips and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

One of the first things you are going to be told is that you need to dovetail the drawer corners. Not necessarily true. It's difficult to do if you don't have the equipment, and the equipment is expensive.

Don't kill yourself, watch this video.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodvision/?lid=1527680293&tid=1213841038

They also have a video that will show you how to align the fronts flush the way you want.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodvision/?lid=1527680293&tid=1213841038


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Sabres,
Drawers are not that hard. If it weren't for the fact that they moved, nobody would think twice about making them. All they are is a box with no top, on a set of glides which let them move. Add a front (just a piece of wood) and you have it. If you are going to attempt to build a cabinet to hold them, you certainly could build the drawers. If you use plywood, make sure it is a good grade without voids. Keep in mind the drawer box doesn't have to be the same height as the opening, in fact it needs to be a bit shorter for clearance. You could do some simple rabbet joints and glue and nail the corners together. The bottoms could be a piece of 1/4" luan or plywood. Before you make your boxes, pick out your glides and see how much side clearance they require. Most are 1/2". Once you have your boxes made, along with the cabinet you are going to put them in, it's time to mount the glides. Follow there directions and mount the glides and the drawer box. Once you have the boxes mounted and working ok, mount the drawer fronts. You could put double stick tape on the front of the drawer boxes, then carefully place the drawer front in the opening. You should size the drawer front so you end up with an 1/8" margin all the way around. Now you can carefully open the drawer, clamp the front with a squeeze grip, and fasten the drawer front from the inside of the box with screws in predrilled pilot holes in the drawer box. 
Hope this helps to get you going, keep us posted and feel free to ask questions.
Mike Hawkins


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## bzbatl (Feb 10, 2009)

Also keep in mind you can get bottom-mounted drawer glides, as well - if you really need that extra inch of horizontal space.

If the cabinet is 3/4" plywood, drawers are usually 1/2" plywood. I built mine with a 1/4" deep dado for the back and a 1/4" deep rabbet for the front. Glue and brads are the ticket.


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