# Does anyone ever use a drill extension to predrill before doing the pocket screws?



## pmaru77 (Apr 14, 2009)

I have to rework some maple face frame pieces and there are already holes from a bad assembly. I'm thinking of filling the holes with wood splinters and epoxy and reusing them but would like to predrill the holes so they go in without moving the wood where is would not be flush with mating board. I'm having some issues with getting a lip on some pieces, even though they are same thickness within .002" The holder would have to fit into the pocket hole and the bit would have to be maybe something like .08"dia.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Are they pre-lubed screws? They often n.v will leave a oil ring when finished. I dont think the Kreg screws do..


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## Nick2727 (Jun 14, 2020)

Are you clamping the 2 pieces, that your trying to join? Typically that's enough to hold them in place when driving the screws In. As shown in photos.


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

pmaru77 said:


> I have to rework some maple face frame pieces and there are already holes from a bad assembly. I'm thinking of filling the holes with wood splinters and epoxy and reusing them but would like to predrill the holes so they go in without moving the wood where is would not be flush with mating board. I'm having some issues with getting a lip on some pieces, even though they are same thickness within .002" The holder would have to fit into the pocket hole and the bit would have to be maybe something like .08"dia.


What tools do you have access to? If the face frames are not assembled can you run them through a planer or wide belt sander to make them all the same thickness? You should be clamping during assemble, so there is no reason for the pieces to be out of plane when assembled. Another option would be to use loose tenons instead of pocket screws. Would not take much longer and you can avoid working around miss screwed holes.


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