# Big problem with horrible wood filler



## zentivitydesigns (Jun 16, 2015)

First of all, I am a total newbie so please (please) excuse the newbie talk. Here is my challenge: I've been refinishing furniture for about a year and have a large table I am working on. I found out the hard way that Minwax's so-called "stainable" wood filler (yes, I fell for it) is quite possibly THE worst product on the market. The areas I used it on consist of three scratches (across the grain, naturally), the longest of which is about 4 inches long. Suffice it to say the table has been stained beautifully aside from the glaring scratches, which, unfortunately stick out like a raging tattoo on alabaster skin. 

I am livid that this product sucks so horribly. :furious:
My client will be very unhappy.

HOW DO I FIX THIS? Do I sand the entire scratched area down and then try to remove this horrible product and then re-stain and THEN fill with either a glue/sanding dust mix or a color stick type product and attempt to feather in the area? I HAVE to do something! My client is going to fire me if I don't figure this out... Help?


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

IF the table is solid wood the best fix is to sand the scratches out. If the table is veneer the best fix is to re veneer it. A close color match wood filler is still noticeable.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Assuming the problem is the stainable wood filler didn't take the stain all you have to do is color the filler with touch up markers and graining pens. You can get a set of three touch up markers at walmart which is light medium and dark. Graining pens you will have to get from a furniture finish supplier. Mohawk Finishing Products has a wide variety of these. A lot of times if you fill a damaged spot about the size of a nickle or bigger all you can do is color the spot the background color. Since it is a big spot of a single color it looks bad. You can use these graining pens and draw the grain across the patch so it blends in a lot better. 

In the future you might shop around for some wood putty that is better stainable. I like Famowood putty. Still you have to keep a selection. You can't put a natural putty on walnut and not expect to have problems. You keep a selection of different colors of putty for your needs. You use a walnut putty on walnut or a wood you intend to stain dark. 

If you are doing furniture refinishing and touch up you might consider getting the stuff to do burn-in repairs. These are colored shellac sticks you can melt into a damaged spot with a soldering iron. A lot of times you can make a damaged spot go away without the need for refinishing. The shellac cools as hard as the rest of the finished wood.


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## zentivitydesigns (Jun 16, 2015)

Here are 3 photos of these scratches... The client wants the grain showing through so I don't think I can go any darker stain-wise...


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Try steaming them with a wet rag and iron. Especially the last one.


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## zentivitydesigns (Jun 16, 2015)

You mean after I sand it down? The wood filler is what is dark in the photos... wondering if I have to remove it because it looks horrible...


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Prep before finish*

Zent
Until I saw your pictures, I envisioned a deep horrible scratch you tried to fill. Based on your pictures, it's not nearly so bad. 
These seem to be light scratches or indentions. 
HWebb suggest trying to raise the grain with steam. 
I would try that first. 
Prior to applying any finish, you must be satisfied with the final "look" of a piece. Any imperfection you can still see prior to applying your finish will be magnified with the finish (regardless of what type you use). 
The 3 scratches could have been sanded out. If not, you have to patch. 
A wood filler can patch, but as you've found doesn't necessarily match. 
To match, can be very difficult and is what separates the pros from a non-pros (like me). The pros use a variety of methods including toners they spray on which can hide. This not something quickly learned. The professionals who excel in touch-up are kept busy from furniture stores and manufactures. The really good ones are almost artist. They can come to your home with their suitcase full of tricks and hide damage on furniture or pianos in less than an hour. And when they're done, it looks right. 
Good luck to you if finding a fix. I've been there and feel your pain.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

OK, when you have a large scratch like that going across the grain that is more difficult to fix. From where you are that means taking the finish off and starting over. If it is solid wood, mahogany sands easy and I would just sand it out. If it is veneer then do like hwebb99 suggested and steam the crease out. This means while the wood is raw put a very wet rag on the spot and let it soak for a few minutes. Then put a hot iron on it (like you iron clothes with), sometimes over and over until you raise the grain enough it brings the crease out enough you can sand it. Sometimes it takes a dozen times with the iron to raise the crease to flush. You may not be able to get 100% of the crease out but you should be able to get it to where you don't have to use a filler on it. In this case the best filler would be sanding sealer. I sometimes just brush sealer on a crease so I can put many coats on without having to build a thick finish on the rest of it. Back to the burn-in they make a clear burn-in stick you can use to fill with.


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## zentivitydesigns (Jun 16, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> OK, when you have a large scratch like that going across the grain that is more difficult to fix. From where you are that means taking the finish off and starting over. If it is solid wood, mahogany sands easy and I would just sand it out.



Steve: Thank you so much for the very valuable advice -- problem is, there is already filler in it and THAT is what discolored so badly across the grain (stain-wise). Should I just sand it down anyway? I am concerned about the filler which is already in the creases. And it is solid wood (not veneer)... And I have NOT put any sealant on it yet, JUST stain. *Would you clarify for me???*


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

zentivitydesigns said:


> Steve: Thank you so much for the very valuable advice -- problem is, there is already filler in it and THAT is what discolored so badly across the grain (stain-wise). Should I just sand it down anyway? I am concerned about the filler which is already in the creases. And it is solid wood (not veneer)... And I have NOT put any sealant on it yet, JUST stain. *Would you clarify for me???*


If you strip the finish off with a methylene chloride paint and varnish remover it should remove the filler and most of the stain. Then you should be able to sand the creases out. Before staining wet the wood down with water and see if the creases are gone. The water will give you an idea of the appearance with the finish on it without committing to it and causing you to refinish again. If the creases still stick out do another thorough sanding. If they are gone then change paper on your sander to the next finer grit and complete the sanding. I would probably start with 80 grit paper and then 180 grit and then 220 grit. Water raises the grain and makes your sanding more effective. No more pronounced than those creases are you should be able to sand them out. 

The reason I suggested sealer is if the wood was veneered and you were prevented from doing enough sanding to get the crease out. A shallow crease you can fill with sealer so it's not visible unless get down close and see the indentation under the finish. By filling with sealer the surface will be smooth and flat.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

zentivitydesigns said:


> And it is solid wood (not veneer):


Sand it down. Anything you can use to fill the scratches, even something like timbermate which takes stain extremely well, will stand out horribly. You can try steaming the scratches out, but you'll still have to sand a bit to get everything to match. As far as working around the filler you already used, it depends. Did you stain the entire top? If so, strip the entire top down to bare wood, including the filler, and sand. If you didn't stain the entire top, just go ahead and sand, the filler shouldn't interfere with anything. 

Scratches across the grain always, always stand out because it breaks the continuity of the grain lines. Generally the best fix is to sand below the depth of the scratch, I've yet to find an easy workaround


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## joek30296 (Dec 16, 2009)

You might try using acetone to remove the filler. Then resand and restain.


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## phoenixbound (Nov 24, 2014)

Stop posting and start standing!  j/k. I just don't see any way to hide those blemishes without sanding them out as most here have already opined.


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