# Need advice



## Woodshop Momma (Jun 29, 2012)

I am making a large shadow box (4' x 2' 3") using 2x3" cedar. I made the corners mitered and I would like to connect the sides without using screws. My first thought was to use two dowels on each end, however after playing with scrap pieces I've come to realize that it's difficult getting the home made jig stable enough to drill the holes while keeping the corners aligned. Also considered using biscuits but had a rough time cutting on the angle. 

I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks,
A.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Try doing something like this. 
Mitered half lap joint. http://www.woodsmith.com/magazine/extras/167/mitered-half-lap-joints/


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Woodshop Momma said:


> I am making a large shadow box (4' x 2' 3") using 2x3" cedar. I made the corners mitered and I would like to connect the sides without using screws. My first thought was to use two dowels on each end, however after playing with scrap pieces I've come to realize that it's difficult getting the home made jig stable enough to drill the holes while keeping the corners aligned. Also considered using biscuits but had a rough time cutting on the angle.
> 
> I would appreciate any suggestions.
> 
> ...


 
Hi - pic might be handy. I'm thinking you are mitering the 2" ends but I'm not certain. A jig on a router table may help but a 4' long stick may be a bit tough to manage. Seems like the fence on a bisquit jointer should adjust to 45°. :smile:


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

You could also glue up the miters and then add splines of contrasting wood. Do a search on the project showcase and you will find many different examples.


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## Woodshop Momma (Jun 29, 2012)

Dominick said:


> Try doing something like this.
> Mitered half lap joint. http://www.woodsmith.com/magazine/extras/167/mitered-half-lap-joints/


 
Thanks for showing me something new! It's a great idea but I'm not sure it will work since my pieces are already cut to length and mitered. I'll experimet with it in the shop today and see if I can make it work.

I'll definitely make a note to use it on future project.

Thanks,
A.


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## Woodshop Momma (Jun 29, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Hi - pic might be handy. I'm thinking you are mitering the 2" ends but I'm not certain. A jig on a router table may help but a 4' long stick may be a bit tough to manage. Seems like the fence on a bisquit jointer should adjust to 45°. :smile:


 
First of all I will say that I'm fairly inexperienced. 

Yes sir, the fence on the biscuit jointer does adjust to 45°. I experimented a little yesterday but could not get the slots lined up properly without cutting into the inside edge or outside edge of the frame; which in the heat of the day quickly turned into frustration. That's why I began looking for alternatives. I will play with it again this morning and see what happens. 

A jig on the router table? I'm guessing this is another way to make holes for dowels? Never thought of that.

Thanks for the input. I appreciate it.

A.


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## Woodshop Momma (Jun 29, 2012)

trc65 said:


> You could also glue up the miters and then add splines of contrasting wood. Do a search on the project showcase and you will find many different examples.


 
That's a thought, I've seen this in one of the magazines I have. 
Thanks,
A.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you have to have dowels, bracing the two sections works well. Set up one corner at a time, with inside and outside braces. These are just strips of wood tacked down to the bench. Make a stop at the ends of the two sections. Now, you have one corner that both pieces can't move. Start with a small drill bit...like ⅛". With the small pilot hole to start, the drilling is easy and not a lot of jarring of the pieces. Work your way up to the dowel size bit. 

Once done, repeat for the three other corners. Remember to mark the pieces for each corner so you don't get them mixed up.













 







.


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## Woodshop Momma (Jun 29, 2012)

*Update*

Ok, today I have learned that: 1) the biscuit jointer won't work on this project because even on the 0 setting the cut is too wide for the wood. I finally got it to where I was cutting dead center and the ends were not completeley nicked out but it was just enough to notice when the mitered corners were placed together. 2) forget dowels.... let's just say that definitely is NOT happening on this project. 

So, with that being said I think I'll just glue the pieces together and either do the spline idea or take that a step farther and just cut a shallow groove in each corner and use baling wire or even barbed wire around the entire outer edge of the frame since it's going to be a cowboy themed shadow box. I have a test piece glued and setting up now, so we'll see.

If worse comes to worse, I'll buy a pocket hole jig and screw the thing together. 

I do appreciate all of the ideas.

Thanks
A.


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## verdesardog (Apr 2, 2011)

Woodshop Momma said:


> Ok, today I have learned that: 1) the biscuit jointer won't work on this project because even on the 0 setting the cut is too wide for the wood. I finally got it to where I was cutting dead center and the ends were not completeley nicked out but it was just enough to notice when the mitered corners were placed together. 2) forget dowels.... let's just say that definitely is NOT happening on this project.
> 
> So, with that being said I think I'll just glue the pieces together and either do the spline idea or take that a step farther and just cut a shallow groove in each corner and use baling wire or even barbed wire around the entire outer edge of the frame since it's going to be a cowboy themed shadow box. I have a test piece glued and setting up now, so we'll see.
> 
> ...


 
I like the idea of the wire.

Whenever I make shadow boxes I use dovetails for the corners, looks good and is easy with a jig and router.


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Corrugated fasteners?

http://www.google.com/search?sugexp....,cf.osb&fp=5dcb926e972a056d&biw=1280&bih=905

Sorry 'bout the huge link but its the best descriptive I could find.

These are a commonly used fastener for frames (to the best of my knowledge). They get set into the backside across the seam of the miter (after gluing).


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I've had good luck with splinting the corners of my boxes. Not hard to do, just look for threads here on forum.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If this is your construcrion*

 

The back panel, if plywood and if glued in the slots you show will be the structural member and is all you need. Just use finishing nails in the corners, pre drill to a smaller size to avoid splitting.

I assume to upper grove is for glass?

If so, it may be a bit tricky to get it all assembled and glued simultaneously. Usually the glass is retained by a small unobtrusive molding, brad nailed in, so in the event of a break it can be easily replaced.

A solution would be an opening on one end to slide the glass into the frame...I donno? :blink:


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## Woodshop Momma (Jun 29, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> The back panel, if plywood and if glued in the slots you show will be the structural member and is all you need. Just use finishing nails in the corners, pre drill to a smaller size to avoid splitting.
> 
> I assume to upper grove is for glass?
> 
> ...


 
I never thought about glueing in the back panel (thanks for that tidbit). Yes the upper grove is for plexiglass; and I have decided to use screws on the top for easier access incase the plexiglass ever needs to be replaced or if other items are added later on. I'm still leaning toward the barbed wire around the outter edge.

I'm looking forward to seeing this project finished. :smile:

A.


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