# Whats a hard slippery finish for wood??



## jason7 (May 5, 2011)

I am trying to make the surface of my wood projects really sleek, slippery and shiny. I have a flap sander with 220 grit so sanding wont be a problem. The problem is finding a hard durable slippery surface.

I need this to be durable, as the wood will be rubbing on surfaces, so it would be nice for it to withstand some abuse.

any ideas? I have a air comp, and a siphon feed spray gun... so i dont lack in tools... just in knowledge


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Automotive clear coat*

I would use a 2 part clear coat. It is pretty durable and easy to apply and dries rapidly. Any coating the is being "rubbed" will eventually wear through. The super hard finishes factory applied on prefinished flooring would be your best bet, but I don't think they are a DIY application. You might look into that though. :huh: bill

http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=utf-8&fr=ytff1-tyc7&p=2%20part%20automotive%20clear%20coat&type=

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat.html

Or this? http://www.superfloorcoat.com/hardwood.asp

Maybe this?
http://www.marine-paint.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PEL&Category_Code=Topcoats


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ihatesplinters said:


> I am trying to make the surface of my wood projects really sleek, slippery and shiny. I have a flap sander with 220 grit so sanding wont be a problem. The problem is finding a hard durable slippery surface.
> 
> I need this to be durable, as the wood will be rubbing on surfaces, so it would be nice for it to withstand some abuse.
> 
> any ideas? I have a air comp, and a siphon feed spray gun... so i dont lack in tools... just in knowledge


It might help if you give some details and describe what you want to do. Some coatings may be inappropriate.












 







.


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## jason7 (May 5, 2011)

I am a skateboard manufacturer. Im trying to figure out what lacquer/clear coat combo would make it durable, and still slide well. I use PVA glue and hard maple wood.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Just a few questions......

Do they get waxed,to provide slippery'ness?

Does the finish need to be "repairable"?

How many you got,do you have a spray booth, and are there employees involved?

What do othe skatebd co's use.....do you know why?BW


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## jason7 (May 5, 2011)

no they wont be waxed. yes i built a spray booth that is 6'x6'x8' tall. and no it wont need to be repaired. its pretty much grip it and rip it. the bottom layer is sanded face, so its smooth. i just hope that whatever i spray on it, wont rub off and become sticky.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

>Would make a very small wager the "big-boys" are still usin lacquer?

>The grinding action that I "think" ya'll are doin?,in my pea brain would preclude Epoxy.

>So,would probably go with a cheap Urethane.Contact Barry,the president of SPI @ 404-307-9740 and ask about his "Euro Clear".Good luck,BW


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## Woodshingle (Nov 10, 2010)

*Use Pre-cat Lacquer*



ihatesplinters said:


> I am a skateboard manufacturer. Im trying to figure out what lacquer/clear coat combo would make it durable, and still slide well. I use PVA glue and hard maple wood.


I would not use anything except nitrocellulose, pre-cat lacquer. It is by far the most durable, hard and "slippery" finish for this. And as you have the spray booth, I assume you also have a spray rig (hopefully HVLP).

I like the pre-cat in water white. Just spray a few coats, allowing ample dry time in between and scuff sanding with 320 if needed.

Make sure you have good ventilation, non-exploding fans/lights and very good respirator (not a dust mask!). Lacquer is nasty stuff VOC-wise but it is the best for rock hard durability.


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## Blur (Feb 1, 2011)

Ok, I'll throw my hat into this ring. I'd use a two part polyurethane, in fact I'd go with aliphatic two part poly as it's more UV resistant (good for outdoor items like skateboards), completely non-yellowing, and tougher than just about anything else available unless you're a big industrial outfit. It puts conversion varnish, catalyzed lacquers (pre and post cat) and just about anything else to shame in terms of durability. Also you can get about as thick a build as you want on it with no real issues. The BIG down side is it has a really short pot time. Once you mix the two parts, you've got about four hours to spray your project and clean your gun. Wait too long and you'll wreck your spray gun. That makes it a less common choice for us small guys, but it's used by busy production shops when they need a really tough finish. 

My $0.02 worth.


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## jason7 (May 5, 2011)

my spray booth is just a huge plywood box with 2x4 frames. I plan on mounting a squirrel type blower fan to the side, and blow all the excess overspray into a carbon filter. I will be purchasing a respirator from homedepot. they have nice ones for $60


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