# Planer vs drum sander



## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

I bet this question has been asked before many times. I currently have a 20" wide 4 knife Craftsman professional planer. However I really need to make wider things. The step up in width of planers to 24" or so is almost a double in cost. So I am also considering a drum sander. But let me tell you want I do so you can help me the best. 

I take 2x6 whitewood and edge glue it after planing and cutting. I make 5" wide pieces into a 20" wide table top. The concern I have is for the glue that squeezes out of the seams. Sometimes I am not able to get it all. So would it kill the belt of a drum sander or what?

Should I try and get a 24" planer and just bite the bullet on cost?

Thanks


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Excess glue should be scrapped off before the boards are run through a planer or a belt sander. 
Use a scraper or old hand plane blade.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Toolman50 said:


> Excess glue should be scrapped off before the boards are run through a planer or a belt sander.
> Use a scraper or old hand plane blade.


Agreed!!! The dried glue is hard on planer blades, and will ruin sandpaper and possible damage the rubber drum.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I would buy a planer first it I hand the option, Sanders are too inconsistent...


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## Big Mike 69 (Oct 20, 2015)

In the shop I worked in we made conference tables as wide as 6 foot and 18 feet long. We did not buy a 7 foot planner nor a 7 foot belt sander. We glued up sections, planned them and then glued those sections together with biscuits, dowels, or splines and when dried we hand scraped and sanded the joint with a 4 foot level and sandpaper glued on the edge of the level. We produced glass like finishes this way. A thin layer of glue is all that is needed and not so heavy you get puddles when you clamp up boards. That is another discussion.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Planers work well on most woods and will take material down faster than a drum sander. Drum sander comes into play when you get into wood with figured or twisted grains. Planers have a tendency to produce a lot of tear out on highly figured woods, where a drum sander doesn't.
Mike Hawkins


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

Toolman50 said:


> Excess glue should be scrapped off before the boards are run through a planer or a belt sander.
> Use a scraper or old hand plane blade.


I generally use a gasket scraper on excess glue on my daily glue ups. Never thought of a hand planer but that might be better as the scraper will sometimes gouge the wood or pull up strips.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

Ok, all very good information. I run a production environment and I am afraid the planer I have might lay down at the wrong time. Since it's discontinued Sears does not sell any parts for it except belts. Plus I would like to make wider pieces. I was afraid of the excess glue gumming up the sandpaper. So I should probably get a planer as getting all the glue off is almost impossible. However if a drum sander saves me sanding time I am open to getting it also. 

If I were to get a drum sander and sand pieces after they have been run through the planer am I saving sanding time? I am making tables that need to have a reclaimed wood rustic look. So this is my process. Please let me know your thoughts.

I cut 2x6s to length (4' or 5') and then plane from 1.5" thick to 1.375" thick with two passes per side. Then I cut one side off to 5.25" wide and then cut the other side off to 5" wide. Edge glue, wait minimum 4 hours but usually overnight. Plane again with one pass set at the same height from before 1.375" then 4 more passes to get down to 1.25" thick. Then I sand with an orbital with 60 grit, putty, re sand then 120 grit then 220 grit then stain/clear. 

The question is would a drum sander help me in the sanding? If I could eliminate some sanding time it would mean one or more extra pieces per day which equals $$. Thanks


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## Kansas Gary (Nov 13, 2014)

In the case you are describing I would get a wide belt sander over any drum sander for production shop. The main problem with say a drum sander like the one I have Performax 16/32 you have to be real careful setting it up when the item being sanded is over 16 in wide and you have to make 2 passes to cover the width... Takes up twice the time to complete one sanding operation where as on a 32 in wide drum sander you are thru on one pass......... Now don't get me wrong I really like my drum sander but I have all the time in the world to get it done not like what you are describing as "Production Shop" where time is money out of your pocket.............Gary


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

Ok, so any ideas on a 24" planer that will work well for what I am doing? I would need single phase 220.


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## 2lim (Aug 30, 2009)

If you can find an older offshore, they are great bang for the buck. I just grabbed a 24" toolex and it is badass! 

It is a little lighter than the true beasts, but it can hold its own. If you want to step up and have space for a 2000lbs+ machine, go for a general 430.

Simon


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

All very good advice. I appreciate it gentlemen. I will look further into planers and start down the path to getting one hopefully before the one I have lays down.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

I think we had this exact same discussion with you about the exact same thing, last year.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I think we had this exact same discussion with you about the exact same thing, last year.


Yep we did. I could not find the old thread. This time I am considering the 24" wide planer. But I think I have come to the decision that I will get both. I will get the 24" planer first then the sander. When I get the drum sander I want to get the closed end one and have it also 24" wide. That way I can plane boards first then sand to speed up the process. It should allow me to get one more table per day minimum.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*old thread found...*

Here's your old thread:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/drum-sander-vs-planer-100130/


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Here's your old thread:
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/drum-sander-vs-planer-100130/


Thanks. I think I have enough info in this one to do what I need to do. I think I am going to step up to a 24" planer and then later get a 24" or 25" drum sander. 

I'm afraid of the one I have going down and not having parts available then being stuck till one comes in.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

VIFmike said:


> I bet this question has been asked before many times. *I currently have a 20" wide 4 knife Craftsman professional planer. *However I really need to make wider things. The step up in width of planers to 24" or so is almost a double in cost. So I am also considering a drum sander. But let me tell you want I do so you can help me the best.
> 
> I take 2x6 whitewood and edge glue it after planing and cutting.* I make 5" wide pieces into a 20" wide table top.* The concern I have is for the glue that squeezes out of the seams. Sometimes I am not able to get it all. So would it kill the belt of a drum sander or what?
> 
> ...


 
If you have a 20" planer you 'should' be able to 20" tops with it. 

or 40" or 60" or 80"...

What happens when you get the 24" planer and 'need' to do a 25" top? 

Something to think about before you go to buying tools... :yes:


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

OnealWoodworking said:


> If you have a 20" planer you 'should' be able to 20" tops with it. or 40" or 60" or 80"... What happens when you get the 24" planer and 'need' to do a 25" top? Something to think about before you go to buying tools... :yes:


 What happens when Warner gets a 36" planer and needs a 37" top?


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## 2lim (Aug 30, 2009)

12' stroke sander solves all problems lol.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

What's your budget? There is a guy in Ft. Worth that has a 30" planer on ebay for $5500.00 I bought a Newman 24" planer last year from a guy at Ferguson and IH30 last year for about 2 grand.'

Sorry, I went back and looked at the 30" planer and it's 440V


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

OnealWoodworking said:


> If you have a 20" planer you 'should' be able to 20" tops with it.
> 
> or 40" or 60" or 80"...
> 
> ...


I would not need to make any tops wider than 24"

Right now I get 10 questions a day asking if we make wider tables. People always wanting dining tables larger than what I make. I am just not set up in my shop and do not have enough room to make them that large. Then I would also not have room in my shipping to package those as they would be larger than a cardboard box could handle. I do not want to take that step until I get a much larger building. 

Right now I make 20" wide desks. Every now and then someone asks for narrower but mostly it's 20" and actually I make them 19.75" so they fit through the planer better but also they fit into a 20" wide box with some extra cardboard on the sides inside the box. That's also the reason I only make 59" long because two 30" long boxes together makes 60" minus extra cardboard on the ends. It's the only way I can sell what I sell for the price I sell it. The processes have to be quick. Same reason I use clear brushing lacquer thinned to spray. It dries to the touch in 15 minutes even now while its 50 degrees in the shop. Of course it takes a month or more to fully cure. But I process a table quickly.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> What's your budget? There is a guy in Ft. Worth that has a 30" planer on ebay for $5500.00 I bought a Newman 24" planer last year from a guy at Ferguson and IH30 last year for about 2 grand.'
> 
> Sorry, I went back and looked at the 30" planer and it's 440V


Well I will have to spend probably 4 to 5 grand to get a 24" so I am looking at new machines. I do not want to buy a used one unless its a machine that is not very old. 

I need single phase 220 where I am. But I have now decided and committed to getting a 24" new planer so it's a matter of rat holing the funds to get it. I was going to buy a van for the shop but I am going to now put that off until the fall when the sales start coming.


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## wericha (Apr 29, 2012)

Not really sure why you're using brushing lacquer thinned to spray, why not just use a good precat lacquer? Better yet, go with a conversion varnish. Each coat is sandable in less than 30 minutes and is fully cured in less than 24 hours. We spray our restaurant tables with it and can wrap them in blankets for delivery the next day.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

I need the clear to be ready start to finish in an a couple hours. I can do a coat on the bottom, set in front of fans 15 to 30 minutes, flip clear the top in 3 coats with 30 minutes dry time in between and put a coat of wax on just 30 minutes after the last coat and put it in a box immediately wrapped in plastic coated paper. 

I really havent experimented with other lacquers. I can't let one set a full day. No room for all those pieces to set waiting to dry. But I am open to it if I can do them quickly.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

wericha said:


> Not really sure why you're using brushing lacquer thinned to spray, why not just use a good precat lacquer? Better yet, go with a conversion varnish. Each coat is sandable in less than 30 minutes and is fully cured in less than 24 hours. We spray our restaurant tables with it and can wrap them in blankets for delivery the next day.


Hey this is an interesting topic to me and I don't know much about wood finishes so I wanted to start a thread about it in finishes so I can learn more.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

VIFmike said:


> Well I will have to spend probably 4 to 5 grand to get a 24" so I am looking at new machines. I do not want to buy a used one unless its a machine that is not very old.
> 
> I need single phase 220 where I am. But I have now decided and committed to getting a 24" new planer so it's a matter of rat holing the funds to get it. I was going to buy a van for the shop but I am going to now put that off until the fall when the sales start coming.


There isn't three phase electricity within a mile of me but it's not that difficult to set up a phase converter but I don't think you can get 440V on a phase converter. I bought this one which was made around 1942 and it is solid as a rock. I'm with Warner, age is a good thing. I think it's suppose to weigh 2 tons. Being so heavy it runs quieter than my Delta 12 1/2" planer. There has been a guy running one just like it in Oklahoma City area about the same price for a couple of years. I'm not sure if he is still listing it or not.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

That is a big machine. I just dont know about buying a used one that may break and not be able to get parts for.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

VIFmike said:


> That is a big machine. I just dont know about buying a used one that may break and not be able to get parts for.


The old machinery is so well made I don't worry about any of it breaking.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

I got ya but sometimes they do. Still lots of research to do before buying one. I am set on a 24" planer though. Just gotta find the right one.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A 24" planer will need ....*

The 24" will need a 5 HP at the very minumum and a 7.5 as a rule. Looking at this page of planers from Grizzly, I don't see a 7.5 HP single phase 24" planer:

http://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(category:"Planers")

I owned a 20" G0454 briefly, but I was very impressed with the quality and smoothness of the machine and the surface. The jump from a 20" to a 24" is about $3000 or so.... is the additional 4" worth it? I would not think so in my case. You might want to reconsider based on the power requirement and the cost.... I donno?


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> The 24" will need a 5 HP at the very minumum and a 7.5 as a rule. Looking at this page of planers from Grizzly, I don't see a 7.5 HP single phase 24" planer:
> 
> http://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(category:"Planers")
> 
> I owned a 20" G0454 briefly, but I was very impressed with the quality and smoothness of the machine and the surface. The jump from a 20" to a 24" is about $3000 or so.... is the additional 4" worth it? I would not think so in my case. You might want to reconsider based on the power requirement and the cost.... I donno?


I had not researched the difference. But now that you bring it up I will see if it will be worth it. I was planning on making wider tables than the 20" I do now. But is the extra cost going to be covered by the sales fast enough to be cost effective is the question.


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## wericha (Apr 29, 2012)

We build wide tables all the time. These are 28" wide, 10' long, and 2 1/4 thick long leaf pine (over 200 year old wood). They are glued up in 14" sections and then glued together to make the finished table. Currently we're running a Powermatic 15HH planer


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## pweller (Mar 10, 2014)

VIFmike said:


> I had not researched the difference. But now that you bring it up I will see if it will be worth it. I was planning on making wider tables than the 20" I do now. But is the extra cost going to be covered by the sales fast enough to be cost effective is the question.


I recently made a bookmatched table top, and found that I could use cauls made from bed frame angle iron to ensure that the top surfaces were even. The key, for my application, was to use the angle iron on top, and basically no cauls on the bottom. This basically forced the top to be even, and let the bottom be uneven.

I'd suggest that you try doing a glue up with your currently available tools, and see what happens. You might plan it out so if the glue up fails, that you can rip it right at about the glue joint and end up with a 20" wide tabletop that you could use on another table - this way you wouldn't even have much wood waste if it goes wrong.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

wericha said:


> We build wide tables all the time. These are 28" wide, 10' long, and 2 1/4 thick long leaf pine (over 200 year old wood). They are glued up in 14" sections and then glued together to make the finished table. Currently we're running a Powermatic 15HH planer


This is the point that I was tying to make earlier in this thread and you just nailed it with some great pictures to illustrate... :thumbsup:

I got no doubt that you could make a 48" wide table using the tools you have currently and it would turn out just as well in the end as the one in your picture.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

VIFmike said:


> I got ya but sometimes they do. Still lots of research to do before buying one. I am set on a 24" planer though. Just gotta find the right one.


I've got 5 old machines in my shop. So far I haven't gotten any that actually needed repair. For the most part I just painted them. Warner on the other hand buys machines that need quite a bit of work. He has a local machinist that repairs of fabricates the parts that are broken. Between the purchase price and the repair price I still think they are a better value. The planer I bought was about two grand and if I had to spend five or six hundred dollars for a new motor or something it still would be cheaper than buying new.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Nothing planes like a Buss.

Just buy a grizzly, then I don't have to keep seeing this thread once a year. 

You need a 24" planer(one that was made to eat lumber) and I would pair a 37" wide belt.

Maybe you are soo busy and can't afford anything right away, because you are way too cheap.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> I've got 5 old machines in my shop. So far I haven't gotten any that actually needed repair. For the most part I just painted them. Warner on the other hand buys machines that need quite a bit of work. He has a local machinist that repairs of fabricates the parts that are broken. Between the purchase price and the repair price I still think they are a better value. The planer I bought was about two grand and if I had to spend five or six hundred dollars for a new motor or something it still would be cheaper than buying new.



I'm certainly not opposed to buying a used one. But it would have to be one I could get parts for. If it breaks I don't have time to wait on someone to fabricate a part. I would need to get it back up ASAP. It seems like older machines just don't break but if they do I have to know I can get a part. I'm sure there are plenty of old machines that still have parts available. The good thing is I have time while getting the money together to search for machines, check for parts and reliability.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Nothing planes like a Buss.
> 
> Just buy a grizzly, then I don't have to keep seeing this thread once a year.
> 
> ...


I'm way too cheap?? What?


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