# Countersinking oak



## StickMaker (Oct 7, 2010)

Hey all,
Been building a gossip bench for wifey and have grown a popeye right arm from countersinking. I'm countersinking #8 into oak. I then countersink a 3/8 top hole for wood buttons. I've twisted pilot drills off on this oak and need the strength of popeye to push the drill down to countersink. Have done loose boards on the drill press, but on assembeled pieces you can't do that. Anyway to make this pain free? Oh I'm using the all in one pilot bit countersink bit.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

StickMaker said:


> Hey all,
> Been building a gossip bench for wifey and have grown a popeye right arm from countersinking. I'm countersinking #8 into oak. I then countersink a 3/8 top hole for wood buttons. I've twisted pilot drills off on this oak and need the strength of popeye to push the drill down to countersink. Have done loose boards on the drill press, but on assembeled pieces you can't do that. Anyway to make this pain free? Oh I'm using the all in one pilot bit countersink bit.



I don't have a problem countersinking by hand with a drill. I use a carbide tipped countersink/pilot combo. A sharp bit does it pretty easily. As for the Popeye arm, if you don't do this sort of thing often it will be a strain.












 









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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

clear your hole every 3/8" may help a little. meaning push down 3/8" pull out and repeat. dont try to make the hole in one shot.
fatigue is part of woodworking, you just need to build up your talorence. 

cab-man hit it, quality sharp tools. i use a fuller countersink set with no problems


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## darenrogers (Jan 18, 2010)

If you're having trouble breaking pilot bits, check to see how much of the pilot bit is exposed. The more of the bit that's exposed, the greater the chance you'll start snapping bits, especially if you're having trouble stabilizing the drill. 

I was having this problem drilling some solid mahogany. In the end, I would bore a hole using a standard bit then follow up with the countersink bit. I should say though, this is easy if you have two drills otherwise it may be too much bit swapping.

I agree with all the comments though...so long as you have a sharp, quality pilot/countersink bit, it's just a matter of the right pressure and steady hands.


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## StickMaker (Oct 7, 2010)

*Will keep pushing*

Well, that's what I've been doing, clearing the bore hole every 1/8 inch. The pilot drill isn't as bad as a problem as the countersink head. I'm using "Vermont" bits I get at Menards. Maybe I should check if they're carbide. Wish there was a way to sharpen the countersink head itself. I have switched from regular to countersink bit but the CS bit still takes a lot of push. Oh well, will keep pushing.
Thanks all.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

I think Cabinetman is right on. Equipment is probably the problem. I have sold Vermont American for years in various hardware stores and the quality is negligible. They work ok in softwood... but I have a problem with performance in hardwood on many levels. VA tool fulfill a need in the market but I think for what you are doing, a vew extra bucks would make the job a whole lot easier.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You either have dull bits and countersink tool or an underpowered drill.

George


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

StickMaker said:


> Well, that's what I've been doing, clearing the bore hole every 1/8 inch. The pilot drill isn't as bad as a problem as the countersink head. I'm using "Vermont" bits I get at Menards. Maybe I should check if they're carbide. Wish there was a way to sharpen the countersink head itself. I have switched from regular to countersink bit but the CS bit still takes a lot of push. Oh well, will keep pushing.
> Thanks all.


Most of those cheap countersinks can be hand sharpened, just follow the same angles before presenting them to the wheel. May have to use your Dremel. Thin wheels.


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## Gr1bb (Nov 15, 2010)

Use the other arm. You can count it as your workout...


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

StickMaker said:


> Hey all,
> Been building a gossip bench for wifey and have grown a popeye right arm from countersinking. I'm countersinking #8 into oak. I then countersink a 3/8 top hole for wood buttons. I've twisted pilot drills off on this oak and need the strength of popeye to push the drill down to countersink. Have done loose boards on the drill press, but on assembeled pieces you can't do that. Anyway to make this pain free? Oh I'm using the all in one pilot bit countersink bit.


If you use these you won't have any problum's i have been using these for yrs. The are the best on the market. I use the 3/8" plug cutter and the 1/8" taper drill bit with the 3/8" hole counter sinker. They match and you will not see any seam. The plug's are on a tapper . Of course sand down and turn the wood grain the same way as the board . That will make it look good. Some plug's and cutter's i wouldn't spend my money on them. The inport kind's won't work very well not fit tight. The #5 dirll is the 1/8" and the 3/8" counter sinker go togother . very well . Of course you can get into the 1/2" stuff and a bigger screw's. here is the link. You will not get tired of drilling these. http://www.wlfuller.com/html/tapered.html


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## StickMaker (Oct 7, 2010)

*Good info youse guys.*

Thanks everyone. Santa's been notified of the Fuller type "c" CS bits. Looks like more of a non-clogging bit compared to beveled bits.
What I did was use a regular pilot bit and used my 3/8 cs stand alone bit to make my plug hole. Worked good. Put the stain on it today and tommorrow I start the poly. Will put pics in the gallery when it's done. Happy Thanksgiving ya dust makers!


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