# Moving TableSaw fence guides to right of blade



## Suzanne Queen (Jul 7, 2017)

My old Craftsman contractors-type saw doesn't have as much space between the blade and fence as I'd like. Since I am thinking about building a tablesaw station from scratch I thought I might mount the guide rails for the rip fence starting right at the blade and the rest entirely to the right of the blade.

I never use the fence on the left side of the blade so I don't see a reason to not do this. Does anyone have an opinion on this?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Do it!*

This is a common method of gaining more rip capacity to the right. Just make certain there is enough just to the left to support the rail properly, probably about 6" or 8". 

You will want to fill in between the rails with a nice smooth surface AND you'll need something to support this whole system out near the end. A vertical post or two OR a diagonal back to the mobile base if you have one.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

I would not recommend building a fence guide that starts at the blade and only works on the right side of the saw. 
You may think you will never need the fence on the left and although you may rarely need it on the left, when you need it "you need it"! 
there's nothing wrong with having most of your fence extension on the right side but I recommend extending the rails all the way to the left corner of the saw also.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

As far as I know having the fence to the right is the way most saws come set up from the factory. However, again to my knowledge they will also work to the left.

That said I guess I do not understand the question.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the question is ....*



Suzanne Queen said:


> My old Craftsman contractors-type saw doesn't have as much space between the blade and fence as I'd like.* Since I am thinking about building a tablesaw station from scratch I thought I might mount the guide rails for the rip fence starting right at the blade and the rest entirely to the right of the blade.
> *
> I never use the fence on the left side of the blade so I don't see a reason to not do this.* Does anyone have an opinion on *this?



Asking for opinions, not exactly a question. The question is implicit, however: 
"Should I relocate the front fence rail as far to the right of the blade as practical, since I don't ever use the fence on the left side of the blade?"
Answer:
That should not be a problem with a left tilt table saw, as most are these days. In all my years in front of a table saw, I've never had an occasion to locate the fence to the left of the blade on my left tilt saws. If there was an instance, I'm pretty certain I could do a "work around" to solve the problem. More common is the issue as suggested, is not enough room of the right side of the blade for ripping larger panels.


If making an entire fence and rail system from scratch, you can just use longer rails. If you are relocating the stock fence, a questionable idea for some older Craftsman saws which had inaccurate fences, it may not be all that much bang for the buck/effort required. 

Please respond back with your intentions.:smile3:


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## Suzanne Queen (Jul 7, 2017)

Thanks for the well considered reply. Yes, I was planning to mount the existing (not-stock) fence rails shifted to the right.

It is a Jet-Lock fence if I am not mistaken, rather than the stock fence system. I got the saw a long time ago and it was already old when I got it. There is a small amount of run-out on the blade arbor so this will never be a precision rig anyway (which is okay for me -- for now).


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*arbor run out ...*



Suzanne Queen said:


> Thanks for the well considered reply. Yes, I was planning to mount the existing (not-stock) fence rails shifted to the right.
> 
> It is a Jet-Lock fence if I am not mistaken, rather than the stock fence system. I got the saw a long time ago and it was already old when I got it. There is a small amount of run-out on the blade arbor so this will never be a precision rig anyway (which is okay for me -- for now).



The arbor run out is pretty much self healing in that the blade just cuts a slightly wider kerf, like a "wobble" dado. As long as you know where the kerf will be, you don't have to worry.

I've heard decent things about the Jet-Lock fence, so you're good with that. The old Craftsman belt drive saws are pretty much bullet proof. I had one and used it for 40 years before I parted it out, but it was still runnin'. I put 2 sets of arbor bearings into it, but that's it.:wink2:


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## regesullivan (Jan 26, 2007)

This is my solution. I was lucky enough to have a member sell me the fence he took off his identical saw to me when I needed to repair a bent (short) rail. I ended up adding parts of both rails together and the result is 46 1/2" to the right and 24" to the left.


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## dusty roads (Aug 30, 2017)

Suzanne Queen - my question is; Do you have a size or dimension that you need to rip and cannot do now? A reoccurring cut that needs the extension... That information may help with input here. I'm just curious about what your objective is in adding the extension. If it's a nice-to-have feature, then it's worth going for and I can understand that.

If money and space were no object, I'd have something like this. http://cdn2.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/g/g0691-ca891c6eda858d6e32b919ec69d77623.jpg


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Go for it, you can always clamp a 2X4 to the table that once in a lifetime when you want a fence on the left side.


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