# Adding 1/8 bead to drawer front



## scootch (Dec 26, 2011)

I have enough thickness on my drawer front (walnut) to add bead and rout to add recess. Would this be advantageous over adding bead as separate piece?

This is a 18th century Welch cupboard.

Thanks


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

scootch said:


> I have enough thickness on my drawer front (walnut) to add bead and rout to add recess. Would this be advantageous over adding bead as separate piece?
> 
> This is a 18th century Welch cupboard.
> 
> Thanks


Routing will produce a nice cockbead. Adding the cockbead adds some dimension to the drawer fronts. The picture below I added the cockbeading.
.


















 







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## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

If you plant the beading on the drawer the finish on each corner is a mitre.When you router the cock bead on the drawer the beads pass over each other in the corner and you make a small square that stands a good chance of being knocked of when you make your second pass.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

These are applied. I tried routing them and experienced what Billy De warned of. The applied process was much less frustrating.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Absolutely gorgeous, C-man!



cabinetman said:


> Routing will produce a nice cockbead. Adding the cockbead adds some dimension to the drawer fronts. The picture below I added the cockbeading.
> .
> 
> 
> ...


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

I admire your work and skills,Itchy


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## scootch (Dec 26, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Routing will produce a nice cockbead. Adding the cockbead adds some dimension to the drawer fronts. The picture below I added the cockbeading.
> 
> 
> 
> .


C-man

Thanks, your work shows exactly the effect I was going for. The walnut has such beautiful graining that I think it would be great to have a match between the face of the drawer and the cockbead. I have some practice pieces to play with to develop technique and gig to avoid chipping referred to in other posts.

Also thanks for giving me the proper term (cockbead) for what I was awkwardly describing in my initial post. And thanks to other posters, for their feedback also.

Attached is the piece I'm working on. This is my first attempt at anything this bold.


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## 3fingers (Dec 7, 2011)

Here's a sample of what I did. It's much easier to do it separately. Just make sure when you cut the drawer faces to allow for the beading and the proper reveal. Otherwise it will look sloppy. I would suggest using MDF (to get the right look of the drawer and cockbead) if you don't have the confidence to cut your drawer face without screwing them up.


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## scootch (Dec 26, 2011)

3fingers said:


> Here's a sample of what I did. It's much easier to do it separately. Just make sure when you cut the drawer faces to allow for the beading and the proper reveal. Otherwise it will look sloppy. I would suggest using MDF (to get the right look of the drawer and cockbead) if you don't have the confidence to cut your drawer face without screwing them up.


3fingers,
Good suggestion on the MDF. Thanks the feedback.
Scootch


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## scootch (Dec 26, 2011)

I played around a bit with this before arriving at a gig design that supported routing to produce the bead. The gig was a slight modification to a gig I made for jointing wide boards with my router, adapted from a design I saw in Fine Woodworking.

The setup worked great, but required careful setup for each drawer front.

Attached is a picture of one drawer front ready for shaping the cockbead.

Scootch


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## scootch (Dec 26, 2011)

scootch said:


> i played around a bit with this before arriving at a gig design that supported routing to produce the bead. The gig was a slight modification to a gig i made for jointing wide boards with my router, adapted from a design i saw in fine woodworking.
> 
> The setup worked great, but required careful setup for each drawer front.
> 
> ...


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## 3fingers (Dec 7, 2011)

That's a different way of doing it. So wts ur solution so it doesn't look routed? Are u going to chisel out the corners?


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## scootch (Dec 26, 2011)

Yes, after routing I chiseled out the corners and next will next will complete the shaping of the beads.

Shaping the beads will likely be a sanding process, as I am afraid the router may run and ruin the piece.

Attached is a picture of WIP.

Thanks for monitoring this thread; I'm in virgin territory here.

Scootch


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Had a job with large drawer fronts in plywood. I needed to cover the edges and add detail. Made a separate bead with a rabbet. The plywood is stable and bead miters shouldn't be effected, with solid wood, movement may open them up. Beading the frame gives a very similar look but may not involve the possibility of movement over the wider width of a drawer front.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

scootch said:


> Yes, after routing I chiseled out the corners and next will next will complete the shaping of the beads.
> 
> Shaping the beads will likely be a sanding process, as I am afraid the router may run and ruin the piece.
> 
> ...


If you take the time to do a good set up, you could rout the bead using a radius (round over bit with a bearing), and a core box bit for the inside recess.

The radius bit can run around the outside edge. The core box bit creates the recess on the inside and needs a stop set, which can be made like an "L", or an angle. If all the drawer fronts are the same size, it can be a jig, that holds the drawer front and the end stops are secured to stop the base. I use a trim router with a small base. You can make an add on base to the larger base so the bit can be brought out near the outside bead.

When done, lightly sand or break the edge where the top of the core box groove meets whatever flat is left from the radius bit.

I've done them this way, it's a PITA. Adding the bead is much easier. 










 







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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> SNIPPED
> I've done them this way, it's a PITA. Adding the bead is much easier.
> 
> .


+1000, C-man


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## scootch (Dec 26, 2011)

Actually, I'm pretty pleased at the final effect of the training coming through the beading.

As to the PITA part, thank goodness I'm not doing this for a living! Just creating family heirlooms.

Found a Whiteside bit (full bead) that seems to fit the bill.

Scootch


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

scootch said:


> Actually, I'm pretty pleased at the final effect of the training coming through the beading.
> 
> As to the PITA part, thank goodness I'm not doing this for a living! Just creating family heirlooms.
> 
> ...


Yours look very nice. For an heirloom, they are just the ticket. I'm lazy, though.:yes:


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## scootch (Dec 26, 2011)

Finished beading the first drawer (picture attached).

Thanks for all of the support.


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## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

Hammer your post got me thinking there is a name for the moulding that you created and it`s called Hockey stick,a long time back I spent a very enjoyable afternoon in a store in London(Harrods)that has one floor just for 18th &19th century furniture.

One of the things I noted was a drawer with cock beads and dove tails,well a good time back I made a mock up of this.

The first thing I realised was the dove tails must be half blind and the cock bead (hockey stick)was rebated into the draw face.

I went rooting for this mock up and found it on one side it has a dove tail and on the other side what is known as hounds tooth dove tail, that's like a dove tail in a dove tail.All just a bit to busy to make to any money out of it but never the less interesting.

Any way here`s the pics. Billy


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## 3fingers (Dec 7, 2011)

Turned out well. Good job.


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