# hexagon frames - how best to fasten



## Hamster (Sep 18, 2011)

*Octagonal frames - how best to fasten*

Hello all,
I have a small job for a friend making 20 frames from 2 x 2 pine. The ends are cut at 22 1/2 degrees to make a octagon. ( 8 sides)

I have made 1 so far using dowels and adhesive but thats very time consuming. 

What would be the easiest , fastest way of joining these ? 

I have a finish nail gun up to 2 1/2" nails, or could drill and screw them. 
I had thought the nail plates but thats quite expensive in my area (90c each) .

regards


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

Sub strap clamp, large thick rubber bands,

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## jredburn (Feb 20, 2011)

*Octagon clamping*

A master grade cabinet maker taught me that the first thing you build in any project is the jig or frame that holds the parts together. Then you build the jigs or frames that are used to cut the parts. Then you cut the parts.
If you do that, you will not need dowels or pin nails because your pieces are all identical and are held in a fixed position. Use Titebond glue and the joint is stronger than the wood.
Regards
Joe


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## GearWorksguy (Aug 30, 2011)

Sounds like you have quite a project here....

Another factor is how will the frames be finished. If they will be stained then you have a different level of craftsmanship needed than if they will be painted.

Sounds like gluing and smaller finish nails would be in order with some wood putty to fill in the finish nail holes.

If you want to do some more upscale kinds of joints maybe the following link will be helpful. It was provided by one of the other members of the forum..... I will go find it and add it to the post.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/first-dutchman-joint-22863/


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Hamster said:


> Hello all,
> I have a small job for a friend making 20 frames from 2 x 2 pine. The ends are cut at 22 1/2 degrees to make a octagon. ( 8 sides)
> 
> I have made 1 so far using dowels and adhesive but thats very time consuming.
> ...


 
Just how large of a frame are you talking about? I'm a fan of Titebond but these will be 100% end grain and if very large will need some reinforcement. Splines would likely be easier than dowels if allowed to be seen from the front and back. Build a jig for the tablesaw to cut the grooves and insert the splines with the grain perpendicular to the joint. :smile:


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## Hamster (Sep 18, 2011)

thanks for the replies,

These are about 20 inches across , each piece is 10" long. They are frames that will have holes drilled to hold the ends of some type of cane for making baskets. Appearance is not really an issue. I tried a white wood glue that I have and it did not do a very good job without the dowels. It sounds like another glue would do the job. 

I had considered 'wiggle nails' now called corrugated fasteners but I have concerns over splitting the wood. Maybe a half lap on the pieces for more glue area ? 

regards


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## teesytegs (Jun 26, 2010)

When glueing end grain, seal the ends with glue first and let dry. Then glue again when joining together. If you try to glue the ends together with out sealing them the glue will soak into to wood. If you seal the end grain first it won't be able to and you will have a better glue surface. As for clamping you could use a ratchet strap if you have one handy or a cheap method could be with string and a stick. Put the string around your work and tie to the stick. Then twist the stick until it tightens the string to your required pressure. Hope that helps. Good luck.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Hamster said:


> Hello all,
> I have a small job for a friend making 20 frames from 2 x 2 pine. The ends are cut at 22 1/2 degrees to make a octagon. ( 8 sides)
> 
> I have made 1 so far using dowels and adhesive but thats very time consuming.
> ...


What are the frames for ? Are they under load , compression or tension .
Is the object inside or outside and subject to the weather ? 
These things are factors to be taken into account .

For end grain gluing , use a polyurethane glue , not an aliphatic one .

If the frames are to be under any strain , and that includes the outside elements , use mechanical fixing as well as the glue.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Hamster said:


> Appearance is not really an issue.


How are they to be finished? Paint?












 







.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Manuka Jock said:


> What are the frames for ? Are they under load , compression or tension .
> Is the object inside or outside and subject to the weather ?
> These things are factors to be taken into account .
> 
> ...



That's the way I would build them, using good old Gorilla Glue. Corrugated fasteners, since looks aren't critical. Manuka asked the right questions. 
Years ago, I built some risers for recliners, only using 2X6s and plywood for tall people. Sounds strange now, but they loved them.


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

There is almost no situation that end grain gluing will hold.
Frames are usually assembled with one of a variety of mechanical fasteners. Most are put on the back and may be corrugated as mentioned or may just hammer in to cross the joint.
Another quick and commonly used technique is to make a quick jig for the table saw and using a 1/8th inch thick blade make a cut in the assembled joint to install spine or splines across the joint to add some side grain surface for usual glue to hold. Once you have the jig it would be very fast to make all the joints.
The corner of boxes are often done this way for strength and decoration. Sometimes the router table is used with the jig to put in "dovetailed" splines.
Good luck.


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