# My walnut dining room table.



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Ok Guys and Gals, I'm at it again with my next build. I've figured out the layout of the two slabs and yes I'm leaving it open in the middle. My plan will have to incorporate a piece of tempered glass mortised into the top to cover the opening but not loose the live edge in the middle. I chose this layout because I'm able to keep a full live edge all the way around the table, gain an inch of width and rack my brain as to how I will incorporate a pedestal in the middle of the table top to create its base so to speak. 

My joinery between the two slabs will be done with a router and each slab end at the joints will have their very own weird angle. This will be better described when I actually cut and mill the joints. I would love to get some feed back on the pedestal base as I do have some ideas that I'm mulling over but I'm always open to discussion. Check out the pics and let me know what you think. 

Bubinga will be used for the base. Not to much contrast but it will match the chair colors well. The deep red/ burgundy is what I'm gong for. 

Ryan


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Awe man!!!! That's gonna be sweet!!!! 
Can't wait for more updates. 
Ill subscribe.


----------



## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Ryan4Custom said:


> Ok Guys and Gals, I'm at it again with my next build. I've figured out the layout of the two slabs and yes I'm leaving it open in the middle. My plan will have to incorporate a piece of tempered glass mortised into the top to cover the opening but not loose the live edge in the middle. I chose this layout because I'm able to keep a full live edge all the way around the table, gain an inch of width and rack my brain as to how I will incorporate a pedestal in the middle of the table top to create its base so to speak.
> 
> My joinery between the two slabs will be done with a router and each slab end at the joints will have their very own weird angle. This will be better described when I actually cut and mill the joints. I would love to get some feed back on the pedestal base as I do have some ideas that I'm mulling over but I'm always open to discussion. Check out the pics and let me know what you think.
> 
> ...


Just read your other thread! This will be awsome! Will be following this. Good luck!


----------



## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

WOW! Im hooked!


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Two slabs of live edge...I'm in..I like the layout....can't wait.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome love,
Tim


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Tennessee Tim said:


> Two slabs of live edge...I'm in..I like the layout....can't wait.
> 
> Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome love,
> Tim


Thank you all for following my thread. I'm looking forward to getting some more pics up. I think today ill be working on the joints for the table top and begin to design the pedestal. Again thank you for following.


----------



## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

Will be watching this one for sure! 

have you considered using twin pedestals? one on each side of the center opening.


----------



## bnwelch (Aug 13, 2012)

Tag...looking forward to the end result, as well as to tracking your progress as you get there...


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Wema826 said:


> Will be watching this one for sure!
> 
> have you considered using twin pedestals? one on each side of the center opening.


Right now I'm considering all options for sure. I wanted to figure out either twin pedestals or one single that somehow straddles the opening. Ill try to send a couple mock up drawings later today. For now I've got all my bark and dirt removed from the edges and inner opening. I started by laying out where I wanted the slabs
to join together and marked my top slab as shown in the first set of pics. I then marked an 1/8th inch heavy on each end and cut the bulk off with the festoon rail saw. I repeated these steps for all four inner edges. I then cut a perfectly straight piece of 1/4 inch ply and clamped it to my lines drawn. I took a 1" x1 1/2" flush trim top bearing bit in my free hand router and trimmed the inner joints to my finished dims. Here are the pics of the "ready to glue up slabs". I'm freaking psyched about the look of the table top. More to come later.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Ryan4Custom said:


> Right now I'm considering all options for sure. I wanted to figure out either twin pedestals or one single that somehow straddles the opening. Ill try to send a couple mock up drawings later today. For now I've got all my bark and dirt removed from the edges and inner opening. I started by laying out where I wanted the slabs
> to join together and marked my top slab as shown in the first set of pics. I then marked an 1/8th inch heavy on each end and cut the bulk off with the festoon rail saw. I repeated these steps for all four inner edges. I then cut a perfectly straight piece of 1/4 inch ply and clamped it to my lines drawn. I took a 1" x1 1/2" flush trim top bearing bit in my free hand router and trimmed the inner joints to my finished dims. Here are the pics of the "ready to glue up slabs". I'm freaking psyched about the look of the table top. More to come later.


Hey everyone, here is the next pic. She is in glue up now and already being tested. Heh heh.


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

You don't need glass on it. If you would close up that gap even a 1/2" it wouldn't be an issue.
Even as is, it won't be an issue.
I've done 3 table in similar configuration in live edge walnut and 2 are in use with a 1.5" gap..


Love the slabs.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Da Aardvark said:


> You don't need glass on it. If you would close up that gap even a 1/2" it wouldn't be an issue.
> Even as is, it won't be an issue.
> I've done 3 table in similar configuration in live edge walnut and 2 are in use with a 1.5" gap..
> 
> Love the slabs.


Hey thanks for the advise, I left the gap in the middle to accent with glass to get a certain width at each end. The gap is about 16-18" long and about 31/2 inches wide. It actually worked out to be my friends idea. I think it will cover it well once I mortise it in.


----------



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Did you say STAINED GLASS?

Dale in Indy


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Did you say STAINED GLASS?
> 
> Dale in Indy


Haha right on, I might have to look for something cool like that. That would look sweet. 

Ryan


----------



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

This is going to be a very nice table. 

Bret


----------



## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

IN! Love this idea and those slabs are beautiful


----------



## JDMeek2020 (Dec 7, 2012)

def. following this one...can't wait to see this as it progresses...kill us with pics plz!!!! :thumbsup:


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

JDMeek2020 said:


> def. following this one...can't wait to see this as it progresses...kill us with pics plz!!!! :thumbsup:


Right on, here is where I'm at now. All my clamps are removed and I had to hand plane the top so I can have a super flat table. I've planed it to a good dimension and now I'm ready to hit it with he rotex. If you haven't used a rotex you need to. This sander is the sander of all sanders. It has a low gear with a figure 8 motion at the head for rough sanding and a high gear with a random orbital motion for fine sanding. I can put a pad on it and buff my car out if I choose. Anyway enough about that. With the rotex I will start with a 40 grit and work it down to my final 1/16th and start moving up he chain from there. Here are the slabs glued up ready to go. 

Notice the burls that run up the center and at each end where the slabs are joined. This is why I laid it out like I did. I wanted to keep those burls as they will shimmer like a hologram once sanded to 600. I'm stoked I'm going to pick up my pedestal material today. POMELE BUBINGA SLABS , SLABS, SLABS. 

Thanks to everyone following my thread. And yes to the person who recommended that I should use a pedestal at either end. I believe that's the way I will go unless I can find a piece large enough to support the entire table from the middle. We'll see what the sawyer has on hand. 

Ryan


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

JDMeek2020 said:


> def. following this one...can't wait to see this as it progresses...kill us with pics plz!!!! :thumbsup:


Alright I've been sanding for about thirty min with the rotex and 40 grit. My slabs are perfect. Well as perfect as they will get given the nature of each slab.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Ryan4Custom said:


> Alright I've been sanding for about thirty min with the rotex and 40 grit. My slabs are perfect. Well as perfect as they will get given the nature of each slab.


Alright everyone here we go, I had to go to work or a little while but while I was out I picked up TWO GIGANTIC PIECES OF AFRICAN MAHOGANY. The dims rough are 9"x10/4x7'. 

These will become the two pedestals at either end. I'm going to cut each piece in half then laminate them together. Thus creating a super fat leg around 4 3/4 inches thick by 8 3/4 wide by 30" tall. I will then creat butterfly's out of the pomele bubinga as well as inlays on the legs to somewhat accent them.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I'm still following along with this Ryan. 
Its really looking good. Nice job on the joint lines. 
Can't wait for more.


----------



## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Beautiful! Love the sap that meets in the middle!


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I'm going to suggest you get some kind of strong frame under the backside of that top very soon before it decides to warp up on you.
These wild grains don't act like straight grained woods and have a tendency to go crazy over a very short time. One top I did like that warped of as much as a 1/2" and the slab was kiln dried to 6%. 
Just sayin!
Nature-o-da-beast.

The ones I do, I add a welded 1" (or heavier) tube steel frame in a rectangle shape with intermediate ribs, and with the frame as close as 4" from the outer surface. Then I lag bolt the frame down with 1/4" or heavier lags. 
I use a epoxy top coat and generally seal the backside with a flat latex black, so even totally sealed the tops tend to wanna get funky on ya. 
I even do you you did here and use a minimum thickness of 1 1/4" thick slabs.
However you decide, don't waste time in getting it stabilized.

Coming out good, Dude!


----------



## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

Looks awesome! Looking forward to seeing the finished product....


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Da Aardvark said:


> I'm going to suggest you get some kind of strong frame under the backside of that top very soon before it decides to warp up on you.
> These wild grains don't act like straight grained woods and have a tendency to go crazy over a very short time. One top I did like that warped of as much as a 1/2" and the slab was kiln dried to 6%.
> Just sayin!
> Nature-o-da-beast.
> ...


Good looking out on the advise. I'm for sure getting the legs ready to go this weekend I am really worried about the top going to pot. I have had these slabs for three years at least so I was hoping they would have done what they would do but now you have got me thinking. I'm about as far as I can go with the top so now it's leg design time. I super stoked to get going on these legs but here are some pics of what I've got done on the top thus far. I added butterfly's made of bubinga at the checks on either end and sanded smooth. I did them by hand instead of a router. Super fun. Hope everyone likes.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Dominick said:


> I'm still following along with this Ryan.
> Its really looking good. Nice job on the joint lines.
> Can't wait for more.


What's up Dominick, just wanted you to know there re new posts to my dining room table. Plus want everyone to see the mock up of the legs. Can't decide whether I'm going with bubinga in between to Mahogany or walnut. I'm trying to use the bubinga material I have in stock but I'm worried about contrast.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Ryan4Custom said:


> What's up Dominick, just wanted you to know there re new posts to my dining room table. Plus want everyone to see the mock up of the legs. Can't decide whether I'm going with bubinga in between to Mahogany or walnut. I'm trying to use the bubinga material I have in stock but I'm worried about contrast.


Yep seems I'm going with bubinga, no sweat I've got it laid out and ready for the build. The legs will consist of four pieces of African mahogany. They will be split into pairs and have a layer of one inch bubinga laminated between each pair. If you haven't read my other posts my AM is 10/4 x 9. I will laminate and then figure the support cross struts for the direct underside.


----------



## gideon (May 26, 2010)

slick.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Bubinga sounds good to me. I've never worked with it before. Not sure if its an oily wood or not. 
Sometimes that could be a problem with glue ups. 
Hope it works out.


----------



## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Looks awesome!


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Jakedunn said:


> Looks awesome!


What's up everyone, I've had to dedicate a little time to work so my table project has been on hold for a few. But the great part is that I've figured out the o so overbearing legs. I THINK? Anyway here are my bubinga glue ups. More to come tomorrow.


----------



## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

Great looking Table Ryan, I like the contrast between the different woods used, I think It will add alot of character to the piece.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Wema826 said:


> Great looking Table Ryan, I like the contrast between the different woods used, I think It will add alot of character to the piece.


Ok finally I ha some time to work on the table. Oooooooh wait for it more to come in the morning! It late and I've been in the shop for a hot minute. Pictures to com first thing.


----------



## khowald (Nov 8, 2012)

That is a classy table, perfect use of the walnut slabs, I love allowing a piece to show its origin... I don't know that I wouldn't put a piece of ruby red stained glass in the void, although it would be absolutely perfect for when you have peas for supper... ken


----------



## MrElliott1982 (May 8, 2013)

Wow, that looks great!


----------



## MapleMoose (Sep 25, 2012)

Wow, that table is looking AMAZING!
Ryan, you are making me a convert to live edge.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

MapleMoose said:


> Wow, that table is looking AMAZING!
> Ryan, you are making me a convert to live edge.


Ok here we go I promised some pictures today and here you go. I have got the final mock up for the legs done. The table will stand 31" off the floor. The legs are solid and super heavy African mahogany with pomele bubinga laminated In between both pieces of stock.

I then had to devise a way to give the table support to keep from rocking long ways and also staying with the curves of the live edge top. As you can see in the pictures I have got all stock milled to its final dimension for the legs and have got my side supports laminated and cut to my curved template.

I already performed the curved cuts rough with the band saw and finished them off to perfection with the spindle sander. These legs together probably weigh as much as the top itself. SUPER SWEET.

I'm going to do through mortises for the legs so we can see some of the leg protruding through the top. About 3" x5 and5/8". Please everyone tell me what you think of the table and legs this is my first live edge table and it is proving to be an awesome puzzle. We all love puzzles. 

There will be a pedestal at either end for support. Hope everyone enjoys. I'm hoping to have the legs ready to mount by the end of the weekend. 

Ryan


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

It's looking really nice Ryan. 
Nice detail on the legs you got going on. Can't wait to see her finished.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Dominick said:


> It's looking really nice Ryan.
> Nice detail on the legs you got going on. Can't wait to see her finished.


Ok well I've got to glue up the components that make the legs and well there is a lot of surface area for glue and naturally the pieces will slide all over the place. These pieces have to be pretty spot on so I have dado'ed out four slots the length of the pieces 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep. I then cut 1/2" by 1/4" splines to fit the slots or grooves or dado's or whatever you want to call them. I need just a bit of play so I am sanding m splines to accommodate the grooves but wiggle just a tit. Yes I said tit. 

Any way here you go.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

You know Ryan drinking and powers tools don't mix. Laughing!!!!! 
Oh!!! I almost forgot...... Looks great man!!!!!


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Dominick said:


> You know Ryan drinking and powers tools don't mix. Laughing!!!!!
> Oh!!! I almost forgot...... Looks great man!!!!!


No way, drinking and sharp instruments do NOT go together. But I was super psyched and had to glue up my leg assembles. ONLY glue up today fellas! Smearing glue and snugging up is new Belgium rated. Super upset I could only glue up one leg at a time but patience is a virtue. More to come tomorrow.


----------



## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

Nice job on the leg are you going to put a spine to line up the corbels ass well

Jerry


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

wood shavings said:


> Nice job on the leg are you going to put a spine to line up the corbels ass well
> 
> Jerry


No probably not. I think I actually will just glue and clamp them in. They fit pretty snug in the mortises. Thank you everybody for watching this thread. My goal is to be done before the week is out. I have boat load of work work to do so I may be working late on the table. 

Ryan


----------



## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Hey, Ryan, I just found this thread and caught up on it. Man oh man, that's looking nice. I'm anxious to see hour the legs shape iyo. Is this two separate legs? I think that's going on. Either way, they're looking cool. And nice slabs on top! The hold in the middle is a nice touch. Nice way to get the most out of the material.

Also, nice, right work there on the butterfly. It's very well done. Keep up the awesome work :thumbsup:


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Hey, Ryan, I just found this thread and caught up on it. Man oh man, that's looking nice. I'm anxious to see hour the legs shape iyo. Is this two separate legs? I think that's going on. Either way, they're looking cool. And nice slabs on top! The hold in the middle is a nice touch. Nice way to get the most out of the material.
> 
> Also, nice, right work there on the butterfly. It's very well done. Keep up the awesome work :thumbsup:


Thank you Steve, yes they are two separate legs. I will begin the final stages of the build hopefully tonight. Work work is taking all of my time right now so I haven't had a lot of time to focus on finishing the table. I really can't wait to get started on the final mortises that will be super fun. I will be cutting through mortises into the top and creating tenons at the top of each leg. I just have to finish gluing up the last side pieces on the other leg. Ill send some pics of the finished legs in a few. 

Ryan


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Hey, Ryan, I just found this thread and caught up on it. Man oh man, that's looking nice. I'm anxious to see hour the legs shape iyo. Is this two separate legs? I think that's going on. Either way, they're looking cool. And nice slabs on top! The hold in the middle is a nice touch. Nice way to get the most out of the material.
> 
> Also, nice, right work there on the butterfly. It's very well done. Keep up the awesome work :thumbsup:


Alright folks, just got home from a short trip to Florida and before I left I finished the legs up on the dining room table. Check them out they are very heavy and quite unique. I'm almost there! I've got to put the through mortises in the top and sand and sand and well more sanding. I want to have a very very slick top so the burls in the walnut slabs shimmer. More to come later this week. Damn if work is just slamming right now.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Hey, Ryan, I just found this thread and caught up on it. Man oh man, that's looking nice. I'm anxious to see hour the legs shape iyo. Is this two separate legs? I think that's going on. Either way, they're looking cool. And nice slabs on top! The hold in the middle is a nice touch. Nice way to get the most out of the material.
> 
> Also, nice, right work there on the butterfly. It's very well done. Keep up the awesome work :thumbsup:


Got the legs done. Whew heavy and stable. Sanded them up scraped any excess glue and bam there done, well almost got to rout the tenons in the tops and put the mortises in he table. But here are the finished legs.


----------



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Looks great so far man. You said the walnut had some burl/figure in the top? If you really want to make it pop, finish it out with a cabinet scraper or a really sharp hand plane with really really light passes. It's a lot of work but totally worth it.

Brian


----------



## gideon (May 26, 2010)

i really like those legs and how you've matched the top. looking forward to seeing the final product


----------



## MapleMoose (Sep 25, 2012)

Those legs are COOL!


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

BZawat said:


> Looks great so far man. You said the walnut had some burl/figure in the top? If you really want to make it pop, finish it out with a cabinet scraper or a really sharp hand plane with really really light passes. It's a lot of work but totally worth it.
> 
> Brian


Check it out BZ, I'm at the dry fit for the table. My mortises are done as well as my tenons. I finally get to see it in its almost done stage. She is huge. I love the whole project due to its simplicity. I hope everyone enjoys the updated thread as much as I do. 

Ryan


----------



## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Looking great :thumbsup: Is it stable enough? It almost looks a little top heavy.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Looking great :thumbsup: Is it stable enough? It almost looks a little top heavy.


That's what I thought. But calculations are right on the cusp. So it sits pretty on hard woods with no problem but carpet well that's another ? I didn't design it to be on carpet or even a rug because its for me but if I do it again ill put a little thought into it being able to sit on carpet or a rug. The total supporting width of the leg is one third the width of the span it is supporting at the point of support. It's very stable. I know it looks a little squirrelly but surprisingly it does not rock to the long or the short. If it were two inches taller that maybe a question but 30" is the finished working height, if you look at the base of the legs in my previous posts the legs sit a very narrow pivot point. it makes the leg want to kick diagonally. dont know if thats clear. where the bubinga is sandwiched between the two larger magogany pieces. the bubinga is the furthest point out at the base so it has very little surface area to pivot on side to side. The whole point was to be able to get chairs all the way around the table without any legs interfering with comfort. Once chairs are in place I'm hoping it looks like a floating top I really didn't want legs to be the focal point. I'm having trouble with my attachment decisions.


----------



## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

You did mention the legs being very heavy. If all that mass is keeping it stable enough (plus the legs do span 1/3) then you're in the clear. Good deal. :thumbsup:

That top looks great up on legs. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.


----------



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Dude that is going to look so sweet finished!!! Coming together nicely. Like Steve said, I'm surprised the 2 legs support that massive a top securely. Good job on the design man! 

What's your finish schedule going to be? Have you decided?

Brian


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

BZawat said:


> Dude that is going to look so sweet finished!!! Coming together nicely. Like Steve said, I'm surprised the 2 legs support that massive a top securely. Good job on the design man!
> 
> What's your finish schedule going to be? Have you decided?
> 
> Brian


Not yet buddy, I'm still so busy with my company and growing a business that I have to work o these type of projects when the time is there. Today was the first day in almost two weeks to work on the table. Hopefully ill have it done by first of the week but no promises. Thank you for the kudos BZ much appreciated. 

Ryan


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

BZawat said:


> Looks great so far man. You said the walnut had some burl/figure in the top? If you really want to make it pop, finish it out with a cabinet scraper or a really sharp hand plane with really really light passes. It's a lot of work but totally worth it.
> 
> Brian


BZ good call on the scraper for the burl. It is shining up allot. Once I go to 600 on the sanding I think the burls will be all but holographic for sure. I also have to say that keeping this table flat has been a trick in and of itself. I've had to clamp it down and wait so it will relax. Another guy told me it would get squirrelly on me and we'll he was right its def a chore to keep it flat.


----------



## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

VERY NICE LOOKING TABLE As others have mentioned it looks a little unstable at first glance. You need to do a sit around the table with several people all relaxed some with elbows on the table some with their bodies stretched out backs resting against the chair back see where the true balance point is. You are making a wonderful work of art I would hate to see it tip, with in not glued it still isn't to late to make a design change if needed. 

Jerry


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Very nice Ryan. I'm very pleased with the outcome. You did a great job!!!! And can't wait to see it finished as well.


----------



## Chataigner (May 30, 2013)

*Love it!*

This is really lovely, the live edge top looks amazing.

I'm due to move house ina few weeks and will need a new table for my kitchen, your design gives me some ideas. Thanks for posting it.


----------



## MapleMoose (Sep 25, 2012)

Wow, that looks spectacular! Looking forward to seeing pic's of it with finish applied.


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I like it a lot, but to me the base just seems unstable. I know you addressed that in previous posts, but it just looks like it could tip if weight was placed on the sides.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Da Aardvark said:


> I like it a lot, but to me the base just seems unstable. I know you addressed that in previous posts, but it just looks like it could tip if weight was placed on the sides.


That seems to be the consensus. Ill take a video once I get it in the space and have people sit around it with elbows and weight at all points. I know the base seems to look that way but it actually is rather stable but I won't know for sure until I have tested it in the space. Who know I may have to go back to the drawing board and design a wider foot so to speak for each leg. I will do all testing before I have applied any finish. Thanks for the comments and suggestions as I welcome all. 

Ryan


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Da Aardvark said:


> I like it a lot, but to me the base just seems unstable. I know you addressed that in previous posts, but it just looks like it could tip if weight was placed on the sides.


Ok so after thorough testing the consensus was correct. THE TABLE WAS TIPPY. not so tippy that it would just fall over but tippy enough to make me slightly nervous. So I have fabricated a solution that I think looks nice and goes with the flow just fine. Once these are glued in I will begin the final sanding process and finishing. Let me know what you think everyone. Thank you for all the thoughts and kudos the next set of pics will be taken from my dining room. Enjoy! 

Ryan


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Looks more stable.
One test is to just sit on the side of the table and see if it stays upright.
And you get a "10" for sticking with the design for style points. Those pieces could also be longer and slightly taller and still fit well.


----------



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I like it a lot, I would consider burying a steel rod that runs from one tip of the new foot to the other. If each is just ONE PIECE, then maybe not needed, but a rod would be better, IMO. The rod could be drilled and screwed up and into all pieces. 

In total I like the piece a lot,

Dale in Indy


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> I like it a lot, I would consider burying a steel rod that runs from one tip of the new foot to the other. If each is just ONE PIECE, then maybe not needed, but a rod would be better, IMO. The rod could be drilled and screwed up and into all pieces.
> 
> In total I like the piece a lot,
> 
> Dale in Indy


Awesome idea on the rod. I think that is what I will do. The rod will def support the feet cross ways and give me a sense of relief beings that the feet will have a good amount of pressure applied in that direction. . Aardvark thank you for your input I take it you specialize in rustic furniture? Good heads up on the table top. Thank you all. More pics to come when it's finished. 

Ryan


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Ryan4Custom said:


> Awesome idea on the rod. I think that is what I will do. The rod will def support the feet cross ways and give me a sense of relief beings that the feet will have a good amount of pressure applied in that direction. . Aardvark thank you for your input I take it you specialize in rustic furniture? Good heads up on the table top. Thank you all. More pics to come when it's finished.
> 
> Ryan


Oh my! After looking at the pics that I have been posting I'm cringing at the shape of my shop. Oh crap it's messy. I guess you don't realize it till you see it through the camera. I'm going to have to get this crappy shop in order before my next post.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Ryan4Custom said:


> Oh my! After looking at the pics that I have been posting I'm cringing at the shape of my shop. Oh crap it's messy. I guess you don't realize it till you see it through the camera. I'm going to have to get this crappy shop in order before my next post.


No that just means your working in there. That's all. I don't notice it. All I see it a cool looking table. Great work man, and nice job with the table legs.


----------



## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

looking good, when your do your stability test just have plenty of New Belgium for the group and that should do it.


----------



## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

I forgot to comment before about the new leg additions. I'm glad you did that. It looks much more stable and visually balanced. I, personally, would have made the additions a little taller. Maybe even twice as tall. But what you have there will certainly be better than before. And the fact that it adds aesthetic balance as well is a definitely welcomed feature. :thumbsup:


----------



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Hey, my shop gets out of shape now and then, but I don't beat myself up over such. 

One way to look at it is, when involved in a special project, sometimes I keep on keeping on, and go along with a bit of a mess. I just want to keep on moving, it takes valued time to clean up under those conditions. 

I know of people that use a tool, put it back in the cabinet, move on to the next step, and 30 minutes later they pull it back out again. I have a rolling cart that gets loaded often, but I try to clean up a bit, at least for safety reasons at least twice a week, just me. 

Just having fun,

Dale in Indy 

I used to be MR. CLEAN, but now am middle of road guy.


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Hey, my shop gets out of shape now and then, but I don't beat myself up over such.
> 
> One way to look at it is, when involved in a special project, sometimes I keep on keeping on, and go along with a bit of a mess. I just want to keep on moving, it takes valued time to clean up under those conditions.
> 
> ...


That's awesome guys, at least I'm not the only one. It's so true when you are really pulled into a project like this you don't really think about cleanliness. I do however clean my shop after every major project just to start out with a clean pallet. I'm so busy at work right now that I haven't had time to start the final finishing. I need a full day to set up for sanding and prepping to spray. I will be using a satin lacquer precat. Oh yeah my favorite. Love this stuff.

Although it seems the easy way out I would like to hear some thoughts from everyone on what they would do to finish this table? Remembering that I want a super clear finish that does not shine to much and really makes the wood pop. I'm up for any suggestions. 


Thank you everyone for your thoughts and comments. Hey Aardvark you build these allot what would you suggest I finish with?


Ryan


----------



## Reclaimed Wood Blog (May 28, 2013)

I have made 4 tables but never one like yours. That is very nice work.

http://reclaimedwoodblog.com/


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Reclaimed Wood Blog said:


> I have made 4 tables but never one like yours. That is very nice work.
> 
> http://reclaimedwoodblog.com/


Yo bro, your stuff is awesome. Do you ave pics f your work other gan what's on that page? Wow dude quite amazing the luck out with the reclaimed. Ill have to kep my eyes peeled on Craig's list. Cool stuff. Really cool!

Ryan


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Thanks for the interest in my finishing.

One thing I have found is any satin/semi-gloss has a fogging effect due to the particulates in it. A hi-gloss shows grain more clearly, but most don't like a supreme hi-gloss.
So I ''never'' use a satin as a base coat. It is always the last 1 to 2 spray coats at the end, and if any features are installed in the surface, like coins, feathers. etc, those areas are taped off, since a satin (even in one coat) will fog the details of the item(in coins, you can no longer even read the dates..it's that bad.).

I start with a 2 part epoxy base coat, and sometimes it takes 3 coats troweled on. That is a extreme hi-gloss, like a bar top finish. Then there are 2 directions I can go. EITHER hand rub the shiny epoxy with rotten stone and pumice powder in a slurry mix (well after drying for 1 to 2 weeks) to a desired sheen...OR a water based satin polyurethane spray coat (no oil base,,,incompatible w/epoxy).
It depends on usage. Hard usage will get a hand rubbed finish and no poly since the surface is more durable.

The 2 base coats I prefer most to pop grain and color better than any other thing I've ever tried is either a lacquer or epoxy base. Both seem to darken and pop out individual grain fibers like nothing else I've ever used. Better than oils. I never stain wood.

If the wood is soft, or going to see some damage from use, it gets epoxy, no questions asked.. Not much can hurt it.
If the wood is a showpiece (like a wall hanging or side table), I'll use a lacquer base coat, and top it with a satin poly.

Your mileage might vary.


----------



## astroinhouston (Feb 8, 2011)

Man...i have been lurking on this site for some time. I have to comment on this one. That is one sweet table. Nice concept, execution, and (close to) final product!


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

astroinhouston said:


> Man...i have been lurking on this site for some time. I have to comment on this one. That is one sweet table. Nice concept, execution, and (close to) final product!


Holy cow, what a delay in the posts everyone. Ahhhhhhhhh I'm so busy at work right now I have had little to no time to work on the final process of the table. Tonight is the night. I'm in SPRAY UP. YAY! 

Check it out, very very beautiful. I'm using lacquer and man o man it's lookin great. 

I'm stoked at the final color and depth of this top what a piece. Yaya yay. 

Next pics it will be in the dining room!

Ryan


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Da Aardvark said:


> Thanks for the interest in my finishing.
> 
> One thing I have found is any satin/semi-gloss has a fogging effect due to the particulates in it. A hi-gloss shows grain more clearly, but most don't like a supreme hi-gloss.
> So I ''never'' use a satin as a base coat. It is always the last 1 to 2 spray coats at the end, and if any features are installed in the surface, like coins, feathers. etc, those areas are taped off, since a satin (even in one coat) will fog the details of the item(in coins, you can no longer even read the dates..it's that bad.).
> ...


Check it out bud. Just posted a few pics. Here is a before and after. 

Ryan


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I'm still here, when I can have free time to browse. Looks great Ryan!!!! I like the finish on it. The color looks rich.


----------



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Those slabs have some downright sexy figure bro! Nicely done. Finish looks good so far!


----------



## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Wow that came out great.


----------



## Gatordust (Jun 5, 2013)

New here, but have followed the entire thread and that is one super job. Nice wood, super plan and execution of plan. Also, appreciate all your thoughts here and how each step developed. After lacquer dries, you may wish to spot treat with some paste wax to see how it appears. Try that in an inconspicous spot. If you don't like it, you can ignore it. Or, give it a good buffing to see if the sheen comes up on it. 
Now, I'm addicted. Thanks for sharing, Ryan.

Steve


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Gatordust said:


> New here, but have followed the entire thread and that is one super job. Nice wood, super plan and execution of plan. Also, appreciate all your thoughts here and how each step developed. After lacquer dries, you may wish to spot treat with some paste wax to see how it appears. Try that in an inconspicous spot. If you don't like it, you can ignore it. Or, give it a good buffing to see if the sheen comes up on it.
> Now, I'm addicted. Thanks for sharing, Ryan.
> 
> Steve


What's up every one. Well here it is. My Walnut Dining Room Table. I've got it finished and placed in its final destination. I'm going to have some pro shots done by a friend of mine but for now here are some pics I took with the iPad. 

Enjoy, there are more pics to come with my celebratory glass of new Belgium ale later today. 

Ryan


----------



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Kool to say the very least. 

YOU DID GOOD!

Dale in Indy


----------



## clpead (Oct 10, 2012)

That is really nice, I love the design.


----------



## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Ryan! The table is gorgeous, man. I'm really glad you added the feet to widen the stance. Congratulations on your beautiful showpiece. You made great use of the walnut slabs too. The table top is quite unique and visually captivating.

Bravo, my good Sir :thumbsup:


----------



## SgtSteve (Sep 12, 2012)

Awesome job! I would be proud to eat off that table. Love the legs.


----------



## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Beautiful table. Was in Mississippi a while back and they had a cheap table with a huge hole in it and dumped crawfish and fixens out on the table and then threw the scraps in the hole. Yours is perfect for that. give it a try! Its not that messy.


----------



## Art Rafael (Apr 17, 2013)

Ryan, that table is absolutely artisticly, mechanically and creatively Beautiful. Congratulations on a super build. Ralph


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I like it a lot.
Concerns are the top will tend to warp/move due to no underside structural ribs/frame


----------



## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Wow stunning work


----------



## Gatordust (Jun 5, 2013)

Da Aardvark said:


> I like it a lot.
> Concerns are the top will tend to warp/move due to no underside structural ribs/frame


 I have the same concerns. It may or may not be soon, but over time, I have the concern that it will sag especially toward the middle. Could set rails about center of each board for length to about 6 inches from each end. I'm trying to imagine a small board with a hidden angle iron. The angle iron would be very supportive and you could trim the face with a small board that matched the table top. Just an idea. 

Love the job. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

As far as SAGGING goes, I personally would just keep an eye on such. You have the talent to spot a sagging issue, then you could take the action you feel needed. IMO.

I don't recall what the measurements are of the top, thickness, and width & length?

I like it a ton.......

Dale in Indy


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> As far as SAGGING goes, I personally would just keep an eye on such. You have the talent to spot a sagging issue, then you could take the action you feel needed. IMO.
> 
> I don't recall what the measurements are of the top, thickness, and width & length?
> 
> ...


I see where everyone is coming from but as I said before these slabs have been sitting in my house for 3 years. The legs support the table in equal and efficient distances so sagging in the middle is really of little concern but if in fact it begins to sag I will address it then. The table top length is 7'3" it is 43" at each end an slims down to 36" in the middle with a top thickness of 1 5/16". Thank you for all the feed back as I will refer to it if problems arise. It really does look great and keeping it that way is important so I will be keeping a close eye on it.


----------



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

You are a smart, talented builder, ENJOY, case closed from my end.

Dale in Indy


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> You are a smart, talented builder, ENJOY, case closed from my end.
> 
> Dale in Indy


Thank you Smith I really appreciate he good words. Your thoughts and advise are greatly accepted as ell as all who have been reading and posting to my thread. 

Thank you kindly. 

Ryan


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

Ryan4Custom said:


> Thank you Smith I really appreciate he good words. Your thoughts and advise are greatly accepted as ell as all who have been reading and posting to my thread.
> 
> Thank you kindly.
> 
> Ryan


Hey everyone, the table is working out great. As I use it more and more it just gets more beautiful. I notice new interesting things everyday. The burl in this piece is unreal. It's kind of trippy if you ask me. But one of the most important things is that their is not a bit of sag, twist, warp, nothing. This table is solid. I love that I can take it apart and make it mobile. I actually got a little tipsy and ended up on the table somehow. Great night and the table got tested! Hahahaha

Ryan


----------



## Stephens73 (Aug 14, 2013)

Amazing craftsmanship you have. Very well done.


----------



## Wizard1500 (Jul 12, 2009)

Absolutely beautiful.....


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Great job. The table looks awesome.


----------



## MapleMoose (Sep 25, 2012)

Somehow, I had missed the wrap-up.

Your table looks fantastic!


----------



## Ryan4Custom (Mar 18, 2013)

MapleMoose said:


> Somehow, I had missed the wrap-up.
> 
> Your table looks fantastic!


Thank you Moose I appreciate the kind words. I'm getting a lot of great feedback and the table is Sunday and sturdy. I have not had a bit of movement in the top at all. I love this piece it's a great conversation starter. 

Ryan


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Ryan, that is super cool. Nice work!


----------



## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

What I like most about this table is the built in scrap disposer!!!:thumbsup: Put your dog under the table then just push any scraps to the center and...VOILA~ everybody's happy including the dog!!!!!:icon_smile:


----------



## trumpetdoug (Sep 17, 2013)

Love the table, and love the thread!!!

Doug - out


----------

