# Thickness Planer Problems!



## KhrisxD82 (Jan 12, 2018)

Hello woodworkers! 

(Sorry for the long read) 
I'm new to the site, and hope I am in the right section. I have a few problems with a 12 1/2" thickness planer. 

The first problem is that there is a noticable slant in the planed material itself. One side becomes thicker than the other side, which is very noticeable when gluing up thickness-wise. I'm not even sure where to start on this one.

The second problem is that I get about 1 1/4" (varies) of snipe mostly at the end of my lumber with every pass. I notice if the lumber is raised slightly when it is almost all the way through it tends to be a lot less snipe. 

The third problem is that the lower/raise crank on top is moving when I put lumber through, and when it is feeding into the planer itself. I gave read some feeds on where to adjust, but pictures are broken. 

And lastly, I'm about to give up on this thing and buy another. The problem here is I am dead broke. 

Any info or help provided is more than appreciated. I have the manual and I'll try to provide as much information as possible in this and the next few days. 

I use the planer a lot, as I do a ton of cabinetmaking. I haven't replaced the blades. The model is a Wen 15 amp 12.5 inch planer; hone depot internet# 206214836.

Any help is appreciated, and I can provide as much information as needed. Thank you ahead of time!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If it's new, take it back.*

You have either of 2 issues. Either the cutter head is not parallel to the tables OR the tables are not parallel to the cutter head. One or the other "may" be adjustable, I donno? Your O/M should describe the process for either. 

Another member had a similar issue and he just made a new longer table cover with HPL (Formica) or maybe he used Melamine. A polished stainless steel plate would also work. Wedges underneath can level it out. :smile2:


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Welcome to the forum, Khris! 

It's probably as woodnthings said and the suggestions are what I've see others do. I don't know if that model has a chain or not for raising and lowering, but assuming it does like the DeWalt 733, is it possible that it might have skipped or jumped a link causing one side to be out of sync with the other? On the DeWalt you can remove the bottom cover and get to the chains very easily to check that out but I don't know about the Wen.

David


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> You have either of 2 issues. Either the cutter head is not parallel to the tables OR the tables are not parallel to the cutter head. One or the other "may" be adjustable, I donno? Your O/M should describe the process for either.
> 
> Another member had a similar issue and he just made a new longer table cover with HPL (Formica) or maybe he used Melamine. A polished stainless steel plate would also work. Wedges underneath can level it out. :smile2:


Depending on which thread youre thinking of, that couldve been me. I had a similar problem a few years ago, solved it by sending a full-width piece of mdf through the planer until the head cut the 'wedge' shape across the board, then fixed that into place on the planer bed, so i essentially made a sub-table that was at the same angle as the head

2(maybe 3, dunno) years now and still going strong, with no issues. The only downside was that i lost a little under 3/4" of height, but its not like i was thicknessing 6 inch blocks anyway. Also marginally detrimental but MDF is abrasive to knives, didnt notice mine going blunt as soon as i did this, but worth noting. The MDF also isnt the best sliding surface, a coat of paste wax takes care of that but still worth mentioning. If you could face the surface with melamine or something similar, thatd be perfect. Please note though, dont send a sheet of melamine through your planer like i recommended MDF, the particle board will destroy your knives


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

or, one could read them manual

"
ADJUSTING TABLE LEVEL
Refer to Exploded Views, Figures 13 and 14, pages 15 and 17.
The planer will produce uneven depth of cut (tapered cut) if the rollercase (26 - Figure 14) is not parallel with thebase (20 - Figure 13). To restore parallelism of the rollercase with the base:
• Using a test piece, measure the height of the taper.
• Turn planer off and disconnect from power source.
• Fold the front and rear extension tables.
• Lay planer carefully on it's side so that bottom side of the base is exposed.
• Clamp vise plier (not supplied) on the left side of shaft (31 - Figure 13) next to the gear (35 - Figure 13).
• Remove retaining ring (34 - Figure 13) and disengage right gear from the elevation screw gear.
• Slowly rotate handle (5 - Figure 13) to raise or lower rollercase. Rollercase will move by 0.006" with every turn
of the gear by one tooth. Move rollercase to the required distance to offset the taper.
• Re-engage the right and elevation screw gear and replace retaining ring to secure.
• Release and remove vise plier.
• Set the planer back on its base.
• Make a test cut to verify adjustment.


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## FishFactory (Nov 8, 2013)

Take a 12-1/2" wide board , plane it, flip it over and make a sled. That's the quick fix....that will solve your thickness issue untill you can get it fixed.


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