# Poor man's jointer jig for table saw



## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

I got this idea from another website. Found here: http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/

So far I would say that it works...okay, but not great. Part of it may include technique, but some of it I am sure has to do with basic flaws in the concept. For one, there is no adjustability in the depth of the cut, pretty much stuck with the blade kerf. Some finagling may yield a means to reduce the depth of cut. You are of course limited to the height of the blade for jointing depth, in my case that is right about 3.25". However, you may be even further limited to an inch or two as it doesn't seem to work as well with the blade way up high (and is kinda dangerous too). I think it best to keep the stock not much higher than the thickness of the MDF guide board. I have tried it with the blade all the way up as shown to joint all faces of a std. 2x4 just to see how it would work.

I added the outfeed table to keep the outfeed stock from just dropping off of the table, but other than that, it's essentially the same as the original concept. I also built a featherboard and am using on the outfeed side, which is probably not endorsed by the community at large. In this case, though, it is not pinching the blade. I think if I stick with this, I need to also incorporate an infeed featherboard. I tried it in front of the blade with poor results.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Nutz, there is a much better less finagling method. It's called a straight line rip jig.

There are plenty of designs out there. I'll upload a picture of mine once I get back to the shop in the morn.

The concept is simple thought, clamp a crooked board to a known straight edge, then rip with the straight edge running against the fence. You can't face joint with it, but I find it much more efficient for edge jointing than a jointer...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Yes, I've seen that concept as well. This one looked intriguing, so gave it a shot. Would still like to see what you've got going on.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi Nutz - Looks like you are using a Freud Glue Line Rip blade. Those are TCG grinds and IMO a HiATB grind will give a smoother surface. You might want to look at the Freud Fusion. 
You could also modify the jig a bit to only take part of the kerf. You'd need to start from scratch but only clamp the jig for the first cut about 1/2 way over the blade. Raise the blade through the stock and finish the rip. Then place the uncut edge of the board even with the left side of the blade and raise it again. Now you would only have half the blade exposed to joint with.
That said, I got tired of fooling with the table saw and convinced the router table to take over the job. The infeed fence is 1/64" thinner than the outfeed fence. I'm still limited by the longest router bit I have, which is currently 3". Haven't needed anything more than 2" to date though so will cross that one when I get there. :yes:


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

The blade is a Freud D1024X which is a ATB blade. Good idea about remaking to use 1/2 the kerf. After making this, I can sure see the merits in a proper jointer


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

ChiknNutz said:


> The blade is a Freud D1024X which is a ATB blade. Good idea about remaking to use 1/2 the kerf. After making this, I can sure see the merits in a proper jointer


Hi again - just reread my post. You wouldn't need to start over. Just rip the OUTFEED edge down to where you currently start your joint cut. Just take 1/2 or so of the kerf off. The more you take off, the thinner your joint pass will be. Drop the blade and align the outfeed edge to the left side of the blade and raise the blade. You wouldn't have to mess with the infeed part at all. D1024 is a pretty good rip blade but I doubt you will ever get glass smooth edges with it.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

This is my short one... Works great!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## 4givndude (Apr 16, 2010)

firemedic said:


> Nutz, there is a much better less finagling method. It's called a straight line rip jig.
> 
> There are plenty of designs out there. I'll upload a picture of mine once I get back to the shop in the morn.
> 
> ...


I agree with you Tom, learned this method from my buddy and it works fantastic for edge joining.


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