# “Thin” rips on the table saw



## NewAtWood (Mar 17, 2011)

I’m sure this has been asked and answered many times, but I’m starting to get really confused about what is a bad idea vs. what is safe. 

I’m looking for suggestions on how to make decent thin cuts on my table saw without losing a digit, an eye, or otherwise damaging a body part that would lead to a trip to the ER or the morgue. I don’t really have anyone to show me the ropes...and I don't want to do something stupid out of ignorance and wind up with a youtube video or my own thread in the safety forum. 

I have a bunch of 3/4” x 3/4” x 6” boards. I want to rip them down on my tablesaw to a thickness of maybe 3/16” or 1/4” (or possibly even 1/8“, haven’t decided). To clarify what I’m trying to do, I would wind up with a bunch of 3/16“ by 3/4“ x 6” boards. I don’t have a planer to run them through after cutting, so I need the cuts to be fairly consistent width. I also don’t want to have to measure every cut since I'll be making about 75 cuts. I'm fairly comfortable using a table saw, but have never tried cutting small stock like this before.

1. Can somebody suggest a method (or a sled/jig/whatever) that would be moderately easy for me (as a novice) to figure out how to build (or buy if the cost isn't too crazy) and use?

I saw someone recommend Rockler’s thin rip jig in an old thread http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056 It seems like it would be pretty easy for me to setup and use for these rips. Is this a good option or is there a better way?

2. What do you use for a pushstick for thin rips like this since there won’t be much space between the fence and blade (my current pushstick has to be at least 1/2“ wide)? I was actually thinking about trying to convert an old handsaw (missing a bunch of teeth) into a push stick, but not sure if that would work...might have too much flex?

Is there anything else I should be aware of or something that I really need to avoid doing in making these cuts?

Thanks for any advice you feel like sharing.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

NewAtWood said:


> I’m sure this has been asked and answered many times, but I’m starting to get really confused about what is a bad idea vs. what is safe.
> 
> I’m looking for suggestions on how to make decent thin cuts on my table saw without losing a digit, an eye, or otherwise damaging a body part that would lead to a trip to the ER or the morgue. I don’t really have anyone to show me the ropes...and I don't want to do something stupid out of ignorance and wind up with a youtube video or my own thread in the safety forum.
> 
> ...


I've got the rockler deal you linked to. Not to bad, keeps the wider part of the stock against the fence, downside of it is you need to move the fence each time. Shouldn't be to big an issue if you "bunch" of sticks are all the same width. Just run the whole batch, move fence, run batch again. PIA if all a different width. I can also pretty well duplicate it's function with a featherboard. 
I also have one of these:
http://microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/index.shtml
which sounds made to order for your job. You will need to remove the blade guard and riving knife (splitter is OK) to use it as the thing straddles the blade. It's unique in that it controls both the stock and the offcut. Does take some practice to get comfortable with one though. Also a bit pricey as as most Woodpeck/Incra products are. They seldom lack for quality though. 
Good Luck


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

*Ripping stock as short as 6" on a table saw is a VERY DANGEROUS operation.*

Being aware of the danger, there are two methods are possible.

Rockler has a device that anchors into the miter slot. You set the distance to this device and the blade the thickness that you want to rip. The stock is placed against this device and then the fence against the stock. Then you rip. The fence must be adjusted for every cut.

Or you could build a push stick that locks into and rides on the fence. A side car of sorts (1/4" plywood) is attached to the side of the push stick. Then you set the fence to the desired narrow cut. Do a dry run to size the side car. Then make your cuts.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I set my fence once and go at it. Make sure you have a good throat plate with zero clearance. You might want to make a fresh one if you haven't got one that's good.

Use a featherboard set up before the start of the cut. Make a push stick that's more of a "shoe" (it will look like this). If you use one that's wider than the stock cut size, and the blade is just above the stock when cutting, the blade can hit the push shoe without kicking it. It will just trim the edge the width of the stock. 












 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's another type*

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwor...ferent-way-to-slice-a-thin-strip-ripping-jig/

The issue here is the length of the workpiece is very short, combined with when it gets down to the last 1" wide it's a real hazard!

Ideally you'd want a jig that hold the work piece as well as runs it through the saw. A jig that straddles the fence to maintain position and also pushes the workpiece through is better than just bumping against the fence. I tried a few different variations this AM, but was not satisfied with any of them...too unsafe.
The best plan is to cut the strips from much longer lengths of stock, then cross cut them to the 6" dimension. JMO. :thumbsup: bill

This search may be of help: http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=utf-8&fr=ytff1-tyc7&p=thin strip jig&type=


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Part of the fun AND profit in WWing is coming up with workable solutions to achieve the desired results........IMO,on that size stock,would be looking to do it on our '47 Delta 14" bandsaw.Pretty much a no brainer.

As has been mentioned,short pcs and thin rips and TS's are a problem by design.It would be way safer to cut the rips first then crosscut.

Yes,a fixture can be built that satisfies safety requirements but in that time......and considering the short's involved......the bandsaw makes more sense.Not to mention the smaller kerf.Just sayin,BW


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

*if I absolutely had to ...*

From the dimensions you give, it sounds like you are starting with blanks for turning pens and planning to slice them up.

If I absolutely had to do this for a large number of items, I'd build a jig which I'll try to describe. (All dimensions approximate.)

Start with a piece of 12" x 12" plywood (doesn't really matter how thick, say 1/2"). This will be the base of the sled, put it on your table saw top with 9" to the right of the blade and 3" to the left. Move the fence up to the right hand side, you'll slide the sled along the fence, into the blade, but not cut much beyond the length of the blanks so it will stay one piece.

Take a second piece of plywood, about 10" by 12", lay it on top of the one you already have, aligned on the right hand side. This will support the right hand side of the work piece, and you'll cut a step in it to form a shoe that pushes the work piece along into the blade. The step will be about 1-and-3/16" -- which will give support behind both pieces after they're cut (reducing the chances of flying wood, I hope.)

Add a handle in the 9" to the right of the blade - closer to your fence than the blade is a good idea I think.

Fix all those parts together, you'll need some way to hold the work piece firmly against the sled - a wooden push stick in your left hand pushing sideways might do the job. Just be sure to always push in the space before the blade, never pushing the work piece against the blade.

You might consider talking to a pen turner (e.g. me!) -- if the wood has an interesting figure, you might be able to swap the blanks for something easier to turn into what you're hoping to make.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Seems like an easy job to me. I would just set the fence to the cut size.
Use a pusher that rides on the fence, and has a foot, that is slightlly thinner than the cut, and also holds down the cut piece, as well as pushes it.
I would use a scrap of wood, hand held to act as a feather board to hold the stock to the fence, just before the blade. A spring loaded featherboard, with a roller, would be nice to use, as you wouldn't have to readjust it with each cut. I've been thinking of making one.
A good, properly set up fence, a sharp blade, and a smooth running saw helps.
Mines an old Unisaw, with an Exacta fence.
It really seems like a basic cut. Am I missing something here?

I would never use a metal push stick on any thin rips!
I have an 1/8" aluminum Rockler push stick, I use on occasion for 1/4" or wider rips. Not for anything narrower.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Pirate said:


> I would never use a metal push stick on any thin rips!
> I have an 1/8" aluminum Rockler push stick, I use on occasion for 1/4" or wider rips. Not for anything narrower.


I wouldn't use any type of metal or plastic push stick.











 







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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Sounds like you have plenty of good info on how to cut the strips so I won't say how I would do it, I just wanted to once again advise, like Pirate, DO NOT USE THE HANDSAW FOR A PUSH STICK!!! You will get hurt and more than likely badly.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

jiju1943 said:


> Sounds like you have plenty of good info on how to cut the strips so I won't say how I would do it, I just wanted to once again advise, like Pirate, DO NOT USE THE HANDSAW FOR A PUSH STICK!!! You will get hurt and more than likely badly.



I was out in the shop a few minutes ago, and being I haven't been out there hearing the sweet sound of the old machines, I fired up the unisaur, and grabbed a 3/4 x 3/4 piece of wood. Cut it to 6" and using a pusher, that rides on the fence, and has a 3/32" foot, rroceded to rip pieces off it, using a hand held stick as a featherboard to hold the stock to the fence, before the blade. Piece of cake.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

NewAtWood said:


> I’m sure this has been asked and answered many times, but I’m starting to get really confused about what is a bad idea vs. what is safe.
> 
> I’m looking for suggestions on how to make decent thin cuts on my table saw without losing a digit, an eye, or otherwise damaging a body part that would lead to a trip to the ER or the morgue. I don’t really have anyone to show me the ropes...and I don't want to do something stupid out of ignorance and wind up with a youtube video or my own thread in the safety forum.
> 
> ...


Watch the utube video by charles neil It will show you how to. http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=InTheWorkshop#p/u/78/FullQWi2ZwM


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## DustinB (Mar 30, 2011)

Maybe I'm thinking wrong, but why has no one suggested a miter saw with a stop block for quick repeatable cuts?

I tried ripping short thin stock on my tablesaw once, never again. Even with a push block as cabinetman describes, it is still very dangerous. Those short blocks of wood really hurt when they slam into your chest.

My preference would be for a bandsaw, but I'm guessing you don't have one. Might be the time for the investment, it makes very short work and minimizes waste with a good sharp blade. My second choice would be the miter saw with a block clamped as a length stop.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

DustinB said:


> Maybe I'm thinking wrong, but why has no one suggested a miter saw with a stop block for quick repeatable cuts?
> 
> I tried ripping short thin stock on my tablesaw once, never again. Even with a push block as cabinetman describes, it is still very dangerous. Those short blocks of wood really hurt when they slam into your chest.
> 
> My preference would be for a bandsaw, but I'm guessing you don't have one. Might be the time for the investment, it makes very short work and minimizes waste with a good sharp blade. My second choice would be the miter saw with a block clamped as a length stop.


Ahhhh.... A miter saw for rip cuts? I think you mis read the op.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

After re-reading this whole thing, it's still my opinion that the GRR-Riipper is the safest. It gives positive control over both pieces completely through the cut plus there is an adjustable leg to provide support off the side of the workpiece. 
http://microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/index.shtml 
The work piece is only 3/4 x 3/4 to begin with.
:thumbsup:


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## jaxonquad (Jan 26, 2011)

jschaben said:


> After re-reading this whole thing, it's still my opinion that the GRR-Riipper is the safest. It gives positive control over both pieces completely through the cut plus there is an adjustable leg to provide support off the side of the workpiece.
> http://microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/index.shtml
> The work piece is only 3/4 x 3/4 to begin with.
> :thumbsup:


Just bought one last month, my only regret is that I didn't buy 2 .


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## WWWorker (Jan 12, 2011)

Yeah that GRRIPPER looks sharp and for the price what the heck. I think I am going to pick one up myself


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## b2solutions (Jun 11, 2011)

There's a video podcast called "The Wood Whisperer" that does an episode on the gripper. Worth the time to watch if your curious about the Gripper.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## b2solutions (Jun 11, 2011)

b2solutions said:


> There's a video podcast called "The Wood Whisperer" that does an episode on the grippper. Worth the time to watch.


Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*after thinking about it....*

I thought maybe not a rip operation....well sorta. :blink:
I decided and worked out a method using a miter gauge with an extend fence, some blocks including a stop block and a method to 
anchor the workpiece while keeping it flush to the fence and square.
I was able to cut right down to 3/4" wide with assurance the workpiece wouldn't shift and my fingers are no where near the blade. The stop block insures a uniform width each pass.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*part 2*

more pictures.
The drywall screws just protruding from the back of the hold down scrap were more reassuring than the sand paper strip. I know not to cut into them ....:no: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> more pictures.
> The drywall screws just protruding from the back of the hold down scrap were more reassuring than the sand paper strip. I know not to cut into them ....:no: bill


What I'm thinkin' is that the fall off piece is loose. It could fall and just lay there, or get flipped. Either way requires to manually remove the piece from the right side of the blade. Not to rain on your parade, but, IMO, it doesn't look too safe.












 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK then*

I won't let/ask you to do it this way. :no:
I started out sayin' that this type of cut is inherently dangerous, a real hazard when the piece gets narrow. If it doesn't feel right then don't. Another post said, just set the fence to the right side of the blade and rip away using a push stick...well, that didn't feel right when the piece got to be only 3" wide, and those small pieces are now trapped between the spinning blade and the fence and may shoot out rearward and my fingers are that close. :huh:
FIW, I took this on as a challenge to see what I could come up with and I felt comfortable using this method over the others I tried. :yes: bill


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> I won't let/ask you to do it this way. :no:
> I started out sayin' that this type of cut is inherently dangerous, a real hazard when the piece gets narrow. If it doesn't feel right then don't. Another post said, just set the fence to the right side of the blade and rip away using a push stick...well, that didn't feel right when the piece got to be only 3" wide, and those small pieces are now trapped between the spinning blade and the fence and may shoot out rearward and my fingers are that close. :huh:
> FIW, I took this on as a challenge to see what I could come up with and I felt comfortable using this method over the others I tried. :yes: bill


Hi Bill - I think you came up with the safest shop made method presented. I support the Grripper method but we're talking a $70 push block. Many guys/gals will try many things before going that route, many out of necessity. The risk with your method seems very low. Yes, there is a chance some will catch a tooth and come flying back but as they aren't being trapped by a fence, they wouldn't be able get up a real head of steam. Plus 1 on your efforts:thumbsup:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A blast of fresh air*

A shop vac nozzle on "exhaust" would blow those little piece off and away for a making a multitude of small pieces. Some magnets could hold it in position....haven't tried it but just thinkin' outside the box. For full automation an air hose using a short blast and a funnel trap would gather them up and send them on to the next station....:laughing: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> I won't let/ask you to do it this way. :no:
> I started out sayin' that this type of cut is inherently dangerous, a real hazard when the piece gets narrow. If it doesn't feel right then don't. Another post said, just set the fence to the right side of the blade and rip away using a push stick...well, that didn't feel right when the piece got to be only 3" wide, and those small pieces are now trapped between the spinning blade and the fence and may shoot out rearward and my fingers are that close. :huh:
> FIW, I took this on as a challenge to see what I could come up with and I felt comfortable using this method over the others I tried. :yes: bill


My method could be way more dangerous than yours. But, that's the way I do it. If a procedure is inherently dangerous, I wouldn't recommend it. If the cut next to the fence is conscientious, it should be safe. If it seems too risky, then find another method. 

Yours has merit, and I think there are risks with any method. We get comfortable with certain ways to do things.












 







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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

The pusher man, cutting 1/8" strips


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## NewAtWood (Mar 17, 2011)

I just want to say thanks to all of you for the detailed responses and great information. I've only been coming to this site for about three months, but it is incredible how much I've learned here in such a short amount of time. The fact that people would go so far as to test out possible solutions in their own shop to add insight/discussion into the thread and answer a newbie question is also incredible...and reaffirms why I like reading these forums so much.

Based upon the responses, clearly this cut has the possibility of being very dangerous (glad I asked first). Especially if I'm not cautious and don't think through my procedure ahead of time...and set it up with care. Like most things, there seems to be many possible ways to do this. Now I just need to figure out which is the best for me. I will give a couple of these ideas a shot and figure out what I'm most comfortable with, and will let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for all the help and feedback.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Pirate said:


> The pusher man, cutting 1/8" strips


That is a cool set up, do you use a feather board with your jig? Another quick question, what is the knob for?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Hot Glue them together*

Just hot glue the workpiece to a longer scrap and then when you get down to the last 1/4" it won't be a safety issue. Use the same set up as before with the miter gauge and stop block. Hot glue holds great in my experience. :no: bill


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

jiju1943 said:


> That is a cool set up, do you use a feather board with your jig? Another quick question, what is the knob for?


I use a "hand board" (just a scrap of wood) hand held to hold the stock to the fence. *Before the blade* 

The knob is to push the pusher along the fence.

As the foot is getting thin, I think I will redesign it to have interchangeable feet, for different thicknesses.
They're simple to make out of scraps. Sure, you can buy all sorts of push sticks, etc. I don't see the need, when a shop made one works just fine.

If buying something makes you feel safer, go for it. But still use caution.

If you are new to woodworking, building one is good practice.


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## Ogee Fillet (Aug 20, 2009)

*Cutting thin strips*

At about 14:30 on this podcast.


http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/01/17/podcast-8-10-of-our-all-time-favorite-woodworking-tips/


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*still a safety issue when the board gets more narrow*

He cut 2 strips off a 5" wide board. He can't cut the entire board into thin strips with this method. He said so, "Don't get your fingers too close to the blade". With the board hot glued to a longer scrap there is not safety issue using the miter gauge and a stop on the extended fence. AFAICT :blink: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> With the board hot glued to a longer scrap there is not safety issue using the miter gauge and a stop on the extended fence. AFAICT :blink: bill


There is always the possibilities of the hot glue not holding. Then if it doesn't, a piece can come flying out and hit you somewhere on your body. Lets assume for a moment it hit you on or around your eye. Well, you could get blinded, or even temporarily blinded. If you are all alone, you likely wouldn't be able to drive yourself to the hospital. But if you could still see, you might be able to dry off enough blood to see to drive. 

You might prefer to drive yourself for treatment because you could be waiting a long time for paramedics to arrive. They could have been caught up in traffic, and get delayed. I see that all the time. A firetruck on the way to a scene, gets held up in traffic. I just hate that when it happens.

Anyway, so you decide to drive yourself. You get to the car and you've got a dead battery. Now, you could call AAA if you were a member. They may show up pretty quick, maybe not. Or, maybe a neighbor could take you. Knocking on neighborhood doors with a bloody face can get a weird reaction. Most people would notice right off that you have a problem. They may be your ticket to ride.

But, the accident may not have happened. I've cut my share of thin strips by just setting the fence. A simple procedure, maybe too dangerous for the inexperienced.












 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK just forget the hot glue*

Use Titebond and let it set overnight. Don't forget this is an "inexperienced" operator asking for advice. You are "C-MAN" the expert. How you would do it is not for the inexperienced. I think we are looking for "foolproof" ...if that's possible for an operation that has several potential hazards. I was looking for a method that would keep hands and fingers away from the blade, little possibility of kickback and maximum use of the entire workpiece. Using traditional methods and accessories and no fancy jigs. Let others be the judge. 
BTW I take no responsibility for any incidents using my methods or advice..... since woodworking is inherently dangerous as the statement says under the thread......

*Warning:* The topics covered on this site include activities in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. WoodworkingTalk.com DOES NOT guarantee the accuracy or completeness of any information contained on this site. Always use proper safety precaution and reference reliable outside sources before attempting any woodworking or home improvement task!

:laughing: bill, not my real name.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Pirate said:


> The pusher man, cutting 1/8" strips




Someone posted; "I was looking for a method that would keep hands and fingers away from the blade, little possibility of kickback and maximum use of the entire workpiece. Using traditional methods and accessories and no fancy jigs."

Doesn't the pusher above, fill the bill, if you clamped a featherboard on the table, to hold the stock to the fence, instead of the handheld stick I use? Pusher, pushes, and holds the piece down. A featherboard folds the piece against the fence. Fool proof in my book. If your saw/fence is set up properly, and the blade is sharp.


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## Marv Rall (Aug 13, 2010)

*cutting thin strips*

My compliments on your most simple solution to this woodworking exercise. Safe, simple, and most effective---
kudos


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Anyone catch Tommy Mac on TV today? Ripping thin strips, with just a hold down type push block. Of course, he knows how to use a table saw!
It is a basic cut.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

*Charles Neil how to cut thin strips video*

here is how charles does it. http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=InTheWorkshop#p/u/79/FullQWi2ZwM


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## dribron (Jul 19, 2010)

I usally just cut a sacrificial peice of wood, attach a peice on the end(lip) like I would use on a taper jig. Then along with the aid of a couple feather boards for downward, and side preasure. I'd cut half or so, then flip and do the other half. Works for me every time, and my fingers are always safe. Most important is too be very aware of where your fingers/hands are and respect your saw.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Looking for tips to cut 1/2" x 1/2" square dowels about 3 feet long safely.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

aaronhl said:


> Looking for tips to cut 1/2" x 1/2" square dowels about 3 feet long safely.[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> First, the main question is, how experienced are you with the saw?
> ...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*start with 1/2" thick stock first*

either plane or resaw your stock to 1/2", then rip the stock into 1/2" wide strips using the fence, a push stick or shoe, and a feather board at the far end of the fence, pushing downward to keep the strips from rising up and being thrown toward you. 
Safety glasses, hearing protection and a shop apron would also be recommended.  bill


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Pirate said:


> aaronhl said:
> 
> 
> > Looking for tips to cut 1/2" x 1/2" square dowels about 3 feet long safely.[/QUOTE
> ...


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

aaronhl said:


> I guess I'm going to try clamping a board on the left side of the blade.


 
That's the way I do it... Nice and repeatable. :smile:


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

aaronhl said:


> Looking for tips to cut 1/2" x 1/2" square dowels about 3 feet long safely.


Are you trying to make dowels 1/2 x 1/2 or rip 1/2 x 1/2 stock into thin strips?

If making 1/2" "dowels" lay the wood on the table against the fence and use a push block, that will hold it down, to push it thru. A featherboard to keep it against the fence. 

For ripping a 1/2 x 1/2 piece into thin strips, a push block, that rides on the fence is helpfull.

It's a shame, that everyone who has questions about thin rips, didn't see Tommy MacDonald rip a thin peace. Table saw, fence, push stick. 
kiss


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## PurpleHeartJarHead (Jul 17, 2011)

rrich said:


> *Ripping stock as short as 6" on a table saw is a VERY DANGEROUS operation.*
> 
> Being aware of the danger, there are two methods are possible.
> 
> ...


:yes: My left ring finger that is now a 1/4" shorter and somewhat misshapen is proof of that! 

Was just one of those days where I thought I was smarter than the machine. I don't think that way, *ever*, anymore!


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## Visions (Jun 16, 2011)

I made a simple jig that sits in the left side miter slot as a "stop" for ripping thin stock so I can make repeatable cuts off the left side of the blade. It's adjustable side to side to adjust for the desired thickness of my finished piece.

Or as an alternative, I put my Original Incra Jig on my bandsaw with a resaw blade and just make rips there. The Incra jig is quick to re-index repeatedly, so it goes really quick. Not to mention the bandsaw just feels a lot safer when making thin rips, though it still requires caution.

But since I now have an Incra Ultra Lite positioner, I think I'm going to find a way to use it for small, thin rips on my table-saw. Just too nice of a set-up not to try it.

Wayne


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## jredburn (Feb 20, 2011)

*Thin” rips on the table saw*

This is one of the places that you need to use a cross cut sled. 
Glue 6 to ten of the blanks together with good straight butt joints so you have a board about 8" x 6" x 3/4 and let it dry for a day.
Put a sled on your table and set a stop block for the dimension you want to end with, the stop block should be just about as long as will fit inside the sled. Clamp it in place.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DondWgskWQo/Tba_Fa9rUtI/AAAAAAAAAKI/P56m4TvaWeA/s640/IMG_1888.JPG









Picture of basic sled with T slots

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-..._ofHuUyw/s640/IMG_1889%2520%2528copy%2529.JPG









Picture of prototype stop block that fits in T slots

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-keN_CIHAmcg/Tba_Ii2EFKI/AAAAAAAAAKU/HrNZd1SlJFE/s640/IMG_1890.JPG









Picture of a piece of Cherry about to get rip cut.

This set up keeps your fingers out of the saw, any kickback hits the front plate, hold-downs in the T slots keep the block tight to the sled. You get accurate, repeatable cuts quickly. You can cut veneer pieces as thin as 1/32" .
As your feed stock gets cut down by repeated cuts, set it aside and cut from a second glued up piece. Then take the small pieces and glue them together and finally glue the left overs to a piece of scrap and and run them through.
I will have pictures on my web site in a week or two and may offer a polished version for sale.
http://www.woodenclockparts.com


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