# Help with Thien Baffle



## deadherring (Jan 10, 2012)

Hey Folks,

I'm in the final stages on a new DC system in the shop. I've run 6" PVC and I've got this 2HP system: http://www.grizzly.com/products/2HP...h-Aluminum-Impeller-Polar-Bear-Series/G0548ZP

I am ready to start on a Thien Baffle and was leaning towards this design from Stumby nubs, primarily because it looks a little less intimidating for a beginner than making my own cover on the 30 gallon trash can: 

Start from 8:44:






I was wondering a few things:

1. Any reason this design won't work? I saw a comment on the video that suggested extending the middle coupler below the bottom baffle, I was thinking I would drill a hole in the center and extend a pipe to a point below the second baffle.

2. What is the input/output setup for this design? I'm going to use 6" elbows--do I connect a 6" flex hose from the DC out to the 90 degree elbow and then a 6" flex hose from the PVC runs in to the coupler in the middle?

3. Woodcraft and Rockler don't seem to carry 6" flex hose. Anyone know of a good place to get that? And, is there a fitting I will need to connect to the PVC, DC and fittings on the thien cover?

Finally, I'd welcome any comments on using this design and suggestions on alternative approaches. I'm still a beginner so if anyone knows of a good tutorial, step by step for alternatives I'd welcome them

Thanks in advance,

Nathan


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## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

You can find all you ever wanted to know about the Thien separator on this forum http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?board=1.0.
I love the 2 Thien Separators I built. 
http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?board=1.0


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

the baffle is designed to work with the air spinning between the top and bottom. Extending the pipe below that would be a mistake for sure.

Using 6" duct means using 6" connections in the baffle or you would restrict the system. Mine has 6" connections and is in a 55 gallon plastic drum which is a bit hard to deal with at time. However putting the baffle inside that can would give you very little room for debris. 

I would suggest making the top hat kind that sits on top of the can. They had one if not more like that in our DC section.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

That separator takes up valuable room in your drum. I have a 30 gal. Translucent plastic drum bought specifically so I can see the level.

I emptied my drum three times Thursday while doing some planing.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Mine is in a 30 gal pail also but I only use 2 1/4" connections. With 6" connections, your gonna burn up a whole lot of space. I agree with the top hat design but thats more involved than the standard baffle that your trying to get away from. Its actually a pretty simple project and will be good practice for a beginner!


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

deadherring said:


> 1. Any reason this design won't work? I saw a comment on the video that suggested extending the middle coupler below the bottom baffle, I was thinking I would drill a hole in the center and extend a pipe to a point below the second baffle.c


I have been using an in barrel Thien baffle for a couple of years. It works very well with 4 inch flexible piping. I have recently been upgrading all my piping to 6 inch, so I am creating a Top Hat version that handles the larger inlet/outlet better. I will use the same barrel that I created, but switch to using the Top Hat on top. That will allow me to use more of the barrel capacity than using the in barrel baffle.



deadherring said:


> 2. What is the input/output setup for this design? I'm going to use 6" elbows--do I connect a 6" flex hose from the DC out to the 90 degree elbow and then a 6" flex hose from the PVC runs in to the coupler in the middle?


You can do that, but you will get better performance if you use rigid piping rather than the flexible piping. If you create a Top Hat design, the input port is usually on the side and the output port on the top, which works better with a blower that is not located near the floor level.



deadherring said:


> 3. Woodcraft and Rockler don't seem to carry 6" flex hose. Anyone know of a good place to get that? And, is there a fitting I will need to connect to the PVC, DC and fittings on the thien cover?


Grizzly (http://www.grizzly.com/products/W1036) and Woodworkers Supply (http://woodworker.com/25-x-10-clear-pvc-renfrcd-hose-mssu-124-718.asp) sell 6" flexible piping. Rockler now sells 6" rigid piping through the manufacturer. Search for "Norfab" and/or "Spiral Pipe" at www.Rockler.com.

As for a fitting, I have made mine own. They are basically a wooden clamp cut to the size of the connector they will be clamping. If you look closely at the attached photo, you can see the clamps on the manifold on the top of the barrel.



deadherring said:


> Finally, I'd welcome any comments on using this design and suggestions on alternative approaches. I'm still a beginner so if anyone knows of a good tutorial, step by step for alternatives I'd welcome them


If you want to experiment and iterate through designs, then start with the in barrel design. Use it for a while and learn what you like and don't like about it. Then create a Top Hat for an improvement.

If you want to go right to the best, create a Top Hat and then you can get back to making great things in your shop.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Mine is a 55 gallon 5" side inlet with a Thien baffle attached to the original drum lid. Yes the separator takes up space in your container, but it is FAR better than not having one. And in the shop wise, the separator in the container takes up far less space than a traditional conical cyclone.

As far as Stumpy's implementation, I haven't watched the video yet, but it looks like he just cut the holes in the trash can lid and attached the parts to that. That's fine as long as the orientations are right. I built my first one by cutting the disc and making the the rabbet to seal against the can. It's not as hard as you'd think... But I understand being a little hesitant. Using the factory can lid will make the project go by a bunch faster... 

IF you are brave enough to try to tackle it, I would suggest you do a side inlet though. Try to eliminate as many bends as possible from your system!


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## xmas (Nov 24, 2013)

I built mine to use w/ a ridgid shop vac. 2 1/2" hosing in & out, but went to a 3" elbow joint under the baffle. It was real easy to cut the circle in the MDF top for the 30 gal can's edge to sit inside of using a 1/4" straight bit and a router table w/ a circle cutting jig I made out of some scrap. it filled up slowly until I bought my planer & jointer lol. 

One thing i'll definitely recommend if you're using the 30gal metal trash can is bracing the inside of the can w/ some scrap pieces of wood cut to the interior width of the can (getting longer as you stack them up in a offset orientation though out the center few inches of the can). My seal was so tight on the lid that the can literally collapsed from the suction. 

The hose coming from your dust creation machine (ie planer) goes on the outside port of the can to the elbow joint underneath, the hose going to the vacuum or DC connects to the center of the can. As far as extending the connection in the center (connected to your DC), I failed physics but i'd imagine bringing the suction source closer to the top side of the baffle might create a more intense cyclone though in my experience this isn't really necessary as long as your lid is tight on the can. It's late, if any of this sounds helpful but you need clarification just ask. :blink:


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