# Craftsmen 103.23900 jointer



## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Hey guys, bought this jointer a few months ago and just started using it. Running into a little issue though. I have infeed and outfeed tables set up that are 8' long. My issue is that every time I run a board across the jointer and make a few passes, the board is noticeably thinner/narrower on the leading edge. I don't know if it's the way I'm running them or if it's the set up, but I need some help. I tried raising and lower the cut height but that seems to raise the whole infeed table and doesn't solve anything. I have a manual for it but there's no troubleshooting and I'm new to jointers so I'm not sure what to do here. Any thoughts? I'd like to get this sorted out this weekend. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


----------



## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Thats what jointers do! They make one side flat, it takes further machining to make it square. I and others could type long responses but your best bet is to go look around you tube for videos on using a jointer. A video is worth a zillion words.

HTH JIm


----------



## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

Sounds like snipe on the front end. Not sure how that happens though. 
It could be as simple as how you are feeding the board. Maybe you are just putting too much pressure on the board as you start across the cutter and that pressure is not maintained throughout the board.


----------



## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

I'm maintaining pressure on the infeed portion throughout the cut. Let me put it like this...I took a 3 foot long 24 and ran it on edge several times. What I ended up with was a board that was 2 7/8" think at the leading edge and 3 1/4" at the trailing edge.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

This is a very common problem.

I solved this problem by alternating/switching ends of the board on each pass I think it is a technique problem. To minimize tearout problems take a very thin slice the last cut and make it down grain.

George


----------



## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

Black540i said:


> I'm maintaining pressure on the infeed portion throughout the cut. Let me put it like this...I took a 3 foot long 24 and ran it on edge several times. What I ended up with was a board that was 2 7/8" think at the leading edge and 3 1/4" at the trailing edge.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


If I am not mistaken, you should be keeping pressure on the outfeed side.

As a previous commenter stated, you are most likely not going to get uniform thickness from the jointer, that's what you planer is for. 

Are you trying to get a flat board or a uniform thick board? I am sorry if that sounds crazy, but I wouldn't measure the board at each end to confirm if the jointer is working properly. Just a straight edge across the jointed side to confirm flatness.

Then again, maybe I am not fully understanding the issue. Hopefully we can help you out somehow.


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Sounds like an issue in technique. I had the same problem when I first got my jointer, ended up me holding it wrong. You want to keep pressure on the infeed through about the first half of the board, then switch to pressure on the out feed. Works like a charm for me at any rate. I have found personally that if I only keep pressure on the one side the jointer does take a noticeably heavier cut on one side of the board or the other. 

Is also possible that one of the tables is misaligned to the other. If the tables aren't co-planer, as you run the board across the position of the cut will change and cause differing amounts to be taken off different ends. 

I'd recommend taking a look at the wood whisperers jointer setup video. Goes through checking to make sure everything is properly set up and proper use. Good luck


----------



## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

I should have spent a bit more time on my response. I had a similar problem (non problem actually) Thats what jointers do, they straighten one side, they do not square the board. You can square the straightened edge to a face on the jointer. 

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/jointer-issue-61960/

I looked at every video on You Tube on jointers, some good, some bad, some great. HTH JIm


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It shouldn't matter where you put pressure on the board. If it's cutting more wood on the leading end of it then the knives are set above the rear table slightly. Since I believe that model jointer doesn't have a adjustable rear table then you will need to re-adjust the knives.


----------



## wericha (Apr 29, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> It shouldn't matter where you put pressure on the board. If it's cutting more wood on the leading end of it then the knives are set above the rear table slightly. Since I believe that model jointer doesn't have a adjustable rear table then you will need to re-adjust the knives.


That's partially correct, the knives need to be level with the outfeed table. As I recall Steve is correct that the out feed table is not adjustable, so get a straight edge and check the knives. While you're at it, check to make sure the tables are dead flat and parallel.

It absolutely does matter where you put the pressure on the material, especially on short bed jointers. Technique is critical, and you should be putting pressure on the out feed material as soon as it hits the table.


----------



## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

I looked up the wood whisperer video and will watch that tomorrow and see what I can do. I'll keep you guys posted. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Black540i said:


> Hey guys, bought this jointer a few months ago and just started using it. Running into a little issue though.* I have infeed and outfeed tables set up that are 8' long.* My issue is that every time I run a board across the jointer and make a few passes, the board is noticeably thinner/narrower on the leading edge. Any thoughts? I'd like to get this sorted out this weekend.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


Setup:
Ok, let's start with the jointer setup first. That particular jointer has only an adjustable infeed table which ONLY determines the depth of cut.
The outfeed table (rear) is fixed so the knives MUST be level across it. If they are higher, the passes will result in curved boards, so check the height of the knives. A dial indicator is best. An aluminum level with a machined surface is OK, and what I use. Place the level on the outfeed and rotate the cutter by hand, machine unplugged of course. The knives should not propel the level forward more than 1/16" or so. You can hear them just kissing the bottom of the level.

Once they are set dead level across with the outfeed table, that's all you can do with this jointer as far as setup.

Question:
Now, how in the world do you get 8ft total length? The length of jointer itself, both tables included is about 5 ft or so. A jointer with an 8 ft bed, total length, is a monster, and not a home shop unit. Do not use any additional supports on either end until you get this thing setup right and your technique is giving you great results.


Technique:
If you sight down your board's edge BEFORE you make any passes...what does it tell you? Is it straight or curved on the edge? If it's curved, you should make a light pass on one end only. Then flip it end for end and make another light pass keeping moderate pressure on the infeed as you remove the curved portions on either end. Soon they will be gone and you can run the board it's full length over the cutters. Imagine you were planing this by hand with a long plane. How would you remove the curve? By planing a small amount off each end, not running the full length right off.

A powered jointer is not a "one pass" does it all machine. It requires that you look at the surface after each pass, and see what's going on. The color of the wood and the sound it makes helps determine how it's working as well as looking/sighting down the edge.

I had the very same older Craftsman jointer, and it worked great. My woodworker friend didn't own one so in exchange I gave him mine, since I had several others. I've done the setup on this one many times and find it get easier each time to get the knives dead level across the rear table.

Best of luck to you.:yes:


----------



## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> Question:
> Now, how in the world do you get 8ft total length? The length of jointer itself, both tables included is about 5 ft or so. A jointer wioh an 8 ft bed(total length, is a monster, and not a home shop unit. Do not use any additional supports on either end until you get this thing setup right and your technique is giving you great results.


Sorry, I guess I should have elaborated on that. My shop is 20 ft long. The jointer is right in the middle of that distance with a workbench on the infeed side as well as the outfeed side that run the remainder of the walls. Essentially there's 20 ft of flat bench. I can adjust the height of them pretty easily if need be. I will figure it out tomorrow I'm hoping.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Black540i said:


> Sorry, I guess I should have elaborated on that. My shop is 20 ft long. The jointer is right in the middle of that distance with a workbench on the infeed side as well as the outfeed side that run the remainder of the walls. Essentially there's 20 ft of flat bench. I can adjust the height of them pretty easily if need be. I will figure it out tomorrow I'm hoping.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, trying to keep the two benches level and coplaner across the length with the jointer beds. Much respect is granted if you've managed that


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You could easily tell what is going on by taking a jointed board and run it a couple inches into the knives from the back side. Running it backwards it shouldn't cut at all. If it makes the slightest snipe the knives are too high.


----------



## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Spent some time this weekend playing with the jointer to no improvement. I changed out the blades and set them up properly. They cut nicer with less tear out, but still having the same issue. Was trying to finish a project up before I ordered a planer but it looks like that's not happening. Wanted to wait a few more weeks but I have jo choice now, need to get this project done. I have about 100bf of hickory to surface....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK, the outfreed table is fixed ...right?*

So the only adjustments are to the infeed table and the knives.
The knives should be lever across the outfeed table as close as you can possibly get them.... to dead level across.

This only leaves the infeed table. Here's what can possibly be wrong:
1. It's twisted and not in the same plane as the outfeed.
2. It's lower on the end nearest the operator.
3. It's higher on the end nearest the operator.

For condition no. 1. place two long straight sticks, one across the outfeed table and one across the infeed table. When you sight across the sticks they should be parallel. If not, the gibs need to be shimmed up on the low side.

for no. 2. Place a long level or other known reliable straight edge, down the length of the outfeed table and extended over the infeed table, so you can see if the infeed is tipped down at the end. This means both sides of the ways will need to be shimmed up so it's back to level.

no. 3 is similar to no. 2, except the shims go near the bottom rather than the top.on both sides. 

Generally these old jointers don't have issues with twisted or tipped beds, but anything is possible. I still suspect the knives are your issue and warrants another close look. 

We have the "cave man" method of setting the knives here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/honing-jointer-blades-how-10066/


----------



## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

*Any pics...*



Black540i said:


> Spent some time this weekend playing with the jointer to no improvement. I changed out the blades and set them up properly. They cut nicer with less tear out, but still having the same issue. Was trying to finish a project up before I ordered a planer but it looks like that's not happening. Wanted to wait a few more weeks but I have jo choice now, need to get this project done. I have about 100bf of hickory to surface....
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app



Can you put some pics of the phenomenon so the experts can help further? I know it has to be an answer out there.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Black540i said:


> Spent some time this weekend playing with the jointer to no improvement. I changed out the blades and set them up properly. They cut nicer with less tear out, but still having the same issue. Was trying to finish a project up before I ordered a planer but it looks like that's not happening. Wanted to wait a few more weeks but I have jo choice now, need to get this project done. I have about 100bf of hickory to surface....
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


I have a similar jointer, model 113.206801 and have the same problem until the knives are set right. I dispise changing the knives for that reason. For some reason you can adjust the knives and have it perfect and when I torque the gibs down the knives raise up a little. On mine I have to set the knives about a 1/64" below the rear table to allow for them to rise up when tightened. Sometimes I have to re-set the knives a half dozen or more times before they tighten level with the rear table. The amount it is off is very small but enough to cause problems with sniping and jointing wood straight.


----------



## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

I spent a good amount of time setting the knives and they aren't above the outfeed table at all. Here's one of the boards I've been using. Its a scrap 2x4 about 2 feet long. Here's pictures of the measurements of each end after a few passes too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using woodworkingtalk.com mobile app


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*so are you saying...*

If you start with a board that has parallel edges, freshly ripped and measured to be so, it will remove more from one end than the other resulting in a taper?


I would look for a tilted or loose table OR you are using too much down pressure while feeding. Just enough pressure to keep the work firmly on the tables and transfer the pressure as you advance across to the outfeed table.

Grab the infeed table at the near end and see it you can move it up or down. It should not move. Obviously the fixed table isn't going to m ove, just the infeed... if at all.

Other than that, knives being dead level across, it must be your feed technique, and even then I find it hard to believe that would cause this issue.... I'm stumped. :blink:


----------

