# Which tools are a priority?



## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

Hello all,
I just posted a thread about a bandsaw. I am very new to woodworking and am in the process of aquireing tools for my shop. I have a portable ryobi table saw (wished i waited and saved for a more substaintinal stationary one) I have a hand power planer, a router (Craftsman professional with D handle, plunge and fixed base) I have a jig saw (a ryobi as well). I have a ryobi random orbital sander. Working on increasing my clamp collection. I am really not sure if I should go right to the band saw, or a scroll saw or even start thinking about a planer or a jointer. Please need some advice on this.

Wannabewoodworker


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

The answers really depend on what you are trying to build, and what you are building it with (solid wood, ply, both). Some items are universal, like a good bandsaw. 

I would buy a planer next. A jointer is great, but you can use jigs with the tablesaw and planer to true up boards. I would save up for a jointer until I could buy the one that best fit my needs. I bought a 6" model, and it is great, but I have on many occasions wish that i had bought a 10' or 12'. There are several new Jointer/Planer combos on the market now, and that may be the way to go. The look expensive, until you compare them to stand-alone machines. I have heard great things about the Grizzly offering - http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-Planer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0634

A router table would probably be next on my list. You already have the router, and serviceable router table is easy to build.

There are also several accessories that I would focus on - 
Miter Gauge - I threw away the ones that came with my bandsaw and tablesaw. Incra, Osborne, Keg, and Jessem all make great products, and I am sure others do as well.
Crosscut Sled - While it and a good miter gauge cross-over in some tasks, it is hard to beat the quality of cut and safety of a good crosscut sled. There are plans all over the internet about how to build one. You can also buy kits, such as Incra's Jig-It system.
Clamps - You already mentioned it, but you can never have too many.
Router Jigs - If you router will accept them, buy a set up Porter-Cable style router bushings. Start making jigs for common tasks that you will encounter. I use MDF for most of my jigs. It lets you get to know your tools, while building something useful, with a material that is inexpensive.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

LOML and I are about to bail out for church this morning, but take a look at www.woodmagazine.com and go to their free WW videos and check out the Basic Built section...

Don't be embarassed by that Ryobi TS, it can do a LOT more than a lot of folks give it credit for... I had a BTS21 which I sold to a friend, I currently have a BT3100 (stationary model) and love it... 

Have fun and be safe!


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

If you use solid wood as opposed to plywood, I'd get a planer before a BS....your jigsaw will cut curves for you if need be until your shop is more complete.


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

There are lot of people that really like the Ryobi saws. I haven't used one, but I have heard good things. 

You might want to check out - http://www.leestyron.com/default.php. This guy makes splitters, blade guards, etc. He has some pretty neat add-ons and jig ideas for the Ryobi. I use his splitters and paws on my Powermatic.


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## dannyboy221 (Jan 6, 2009)

wannabeawoodworker i'm also just starting outi bought i ridiculous amount of tool very quickly before i even finished learnring how to use the last one i bought i buy another one but depending on the type of woodworking your planning on doing. A good chisel set is another beginners must have. Hand saws . A flush trim and a decent pull saw is a good beginners tool. i've just aquired a bench top drill press what i've also learned the expensive way unfortunetly but its not how many clamps ya have its the style of clamp that matters.I out of all the clamps i own and believe me when i say i do own them all lol. The bar clamp is probely the most versitile cause you can make it any size you want by just replacing the bar and for high pressure applications c-clamps are the undisputed heavyweight of clamps its got the most pound for pound clamping pressure out of all the sizes or styles of clamps.Also another one of my absolute favorites that i actually don't think i could live without and also use in many othyer instences besides woodworking is the rotary tool with a comfortable flex shaft on it is a must have for any level woodworker i also bought one of those roto zips but i think ive used it a total of 3 times anything that could do my dremel could and in most cases do it better and at half the roto zips weight its amazing at small detail carving ,sanding,polishing,grinding,sharpening,even routing yep u can even rout with the little buggers lol.another one of my absolute favorites and was actually super cheap as well.IS the black and decker power file its got a 1 inch wide by 18 inch long belt which are cheap as well.I i just get a 3 or 4 inch by 18 belt sander belt and just cut it into strips i get like 6 powerfile belts out of one belt sander belt saves a bit of money cause even though the tool itself is fairly cheap that doesn't mean the belts are too.also another tool i like is my vpx cut off saw they;re little powerful for their size and best of all use standard t and u shank jig saw bits. But any type of cutoff will do as long as u don't have to pull outg the big boys for every little cut its worth it.and the last tool i would recommend for you is a good laminate trimmer.A baby router as i like to call them lol).They're light versatile hold a variety of bits 1/4 inch shank only though but i've bought a bosch colt for my first one then i went and purchased another one from harbor freight for 20 bucks and i've beat the living hell out of the little guy aand it kept on ticking i mean i've thrown in a 1/2 inch roundover to a 1/2 inch cove bit and attacked oak with it to see what it would do and to my suprise my harbor freight laminate trimmer muscled its way through it but it did eventually quit on me but do to a problem with the cord or the switch not the motor but at $20.00 a clip you could blow up a couple a year and not have to worry about claiming bankruptcy myh little bosch colt on the other hand i'm not as reckless with at $120.00 a clip that would put me in the poor house eventually but i love em and everyone i know who uses one loves it too i barely use my other full size routers and i also have that 12.5 craftsman 3 base model router from sears actually my ex bought that for me for a gift for $200.00. Tthe only thing that i don't like about it is the fact that it doesn't come with any template guide bushings like most other combo packs do and for a 2 i believe 1/2 horse its a bit on the heavy side and not balanced to good eithero the point where it sit under my bench and i use either my older 1 3/4 horsepower craftsman or my black and decker 2 1/4 horse plunge model router or my last one a either 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 horse ryobi fixed base router that one out of all of them is my favorite its light powerful enough for anything i do or ever will do in woodworking. but i don't wanna put you to sleep if i haven't already if ya want any more tool tips or advice on models and performances honestly dont hesitate to ask or email your question to me if i dont own the tool you wanna know about personaly i could almost guaranteed at one time or another used the tool u r wondering about good luck i've been doing this only about a year so im a beginner too maybe we can learn from eachother ya know good luck


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Danny,
Please stick to the black regular style font. I don't know if it affects others the same way, but it is very difficult to read as compared to the black. It may be the italics also. Thanks
Mike Hawkins


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## jfs477 (Jan 16, 2009)

i would probably go with a planer or in second place band saw or router table i use my router table and band saw constantly. my only wish is that i had bought a bigger heaver duty saw, i have a little ryobi 9" which i love but it doesn't cut very straight even with a wide blade and it doesn't really work for resawing. i do not have a planer but i wish i did every moment i get out in my shop because i constantly have a use for one.:thumbsup:

john


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## ~WoodChuck~ (Jan 17, 2009)

You can do a lot with a router table. Also makes a good little starting project. There is a guy on TV who does entire pieces of furniture with only a router table.You also need a good sliding miter box. Other than a portable planer and maybe a drill press and a 6" jointer you could build almost anything you want.


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## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

*Router Table*

A router table sounds like a good idea. There are so many designs out there and everyone says theirs is the best. I don't want to just throw something together, but I also don't want to spend $100 on materials to make it too expensive. What do you guys suggest? What plans did you use or did you just buy one?

Thanks
Wannabewoodworker


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

mwhafner said:


> There are lot of people that really like the Ryobi saws. I haven't used one, but I have heard good things.
> 
> You might want to check out - http://www.leestyron.com/default.php. This guy makes splitters, blade guards, etc. He has some pretty neat add-ons and jig ideas for the Ryobi. I use his splitters and paws on my Powermatic.


The Ryobi he is referring to is the BT3000 / BT3000SX / BT3100 / BT3100-1 "Woodcutting System". This is far and away different from the BTS table saws. These saws were never offered as a "portable" setup except when sold as the Craftsman Professional Model #21829. 

It sounded like he got a new Ryobi on a folding stand, which would mean the BTS-21. I just sold my BTS21 and it is a decent little saw, but it has its limits... It will cut lumber nice and straight for you, but compare the cut between a BTS21, and a BT3100 and you will see a HUGE difference in cut quality.

If you do have a BTS21 get over to BT3Central, and look for jigs. Those guys and gals have come up with so many fence centric jigs and fixtures that anything you want to do on a slot topped table saw you can do with the miter table topped saw...


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## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

*My Tablesaw*

This is my table saw. With all the jigs that work with a miter slot feature table saw, how can i get the features to work on my sliding miter table. That is the one thing I don't like about this table. It is annoying to have to set up the miter fence each time. Maybe I should bite the bullet and upgrade first. What do you think? Secondly, is there anything I can do to make my rip fence more accurate? It is difficult to get it to a perfect parallel to my blade or am I stuck with a cheap product?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100593232


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Since I no longer have the BTS21, I don't have an owners manual anymore... But I have honestly answered this question about adjustment recently elsewhere, I wish I could find that post so I can point you at it. Anyway, your owners manual has a good write up on adjusting that saw... I didn't have to, it was dead on out of the box...

Setting up the miter fence really is no big deal. It takes of all of 2 more seconds than sliding a slot biased miter gauge in place.. And as far as jigs and such go, I will say it again, get thee to BT3Central... 

You will have to modify some of these jigs for the BTS fence... But...

http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles

Click on Misc BT3 Jigs and Fixtures, as well as BT3 Fence Attachments...

That saw is a good saw for what it is... You might just end up wanting more saw pretty quickly... If you still have the receipt you might just want to haul it back and go to Sears and grab a 21829 and a miter slot accessory. MUCH better saw, laser beam accurate. Of course if budget is of no concern, take the BTS back and go grab a Saw Stop cabinet saw...


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## Geoguy (Feb 22, 2008)

Wannabewoodworker said:


> A router table sounds like a good idea. There are so many designs out there and everyone says theirs is the best. I don't want to just throw something together, but I also don't want to spend $100 on materials to make it too expensive. What do you guys suggest? What plans did you use or did you just buy one?
> 
> Thanks
> Wannabewoodworker


 
Just build one. If you find a nice plan - great! If not, don't worry about it, just make your own plan. They can be made from simple to complex but they're all great tools. I made a cabinet-style router table with plywood top and a poly-type insert that works great. I made two fences that both work well. The first, simple fence is laminated hard wood that attaches to the table with a bolt through the table top. It simply, pivots on the bolt to change position relative to the bit. That's a simple design that you can find examples of all over the internet. My other fence is built with guides to maintain parallel to the table top.

You'll find a router table is very usefull. I was a semi-accomplished sawdust maker for over seven years before I got my first band saw. But I use the router table all the time.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

"Secondly, is there anything I can do to make my rip fence more accurate? It is difficult to get it to a perfect parallel to my blade or am I stuck with a cheap product?"

It is not necessary to get the fence and blade "perfectly" aligned. As long as the leading edge is the correct measurement the trailing edge can be OK if very close in measurement. It is very bad to have the trailing edge with the smaller dimension.

G


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Wannabewoodworker said:


> ...Secondly, is there anything I can do to make my rip fence more accurate? It is difficult to get it to a perfect parallel to my blade...


First things first... Read your owners manual carefully. 
http://www.ryobitools.com/manuals/BTS21/BTS21_087_eng.pdf

Look at page 36 for the procedure for squaring up the fence...

I am sorry you are feeling burnt over the saw. It's really not a bad saw, like I have said repeatedly, for what it is... If you need a bigger saw, get this thing back in its box and head back to Home Depot for a refund... But if you need a good saw, want new, and your budget is limiting you to under $300.00, I simply don't think you can beat this saw...

If you want a miter slot oriented cast iron topped saw, and are limited to $300.00, take the BTS back to Home Depot, and get onto Craigslist and start looking at used equipment...

Once you crack over the $500.00 mark, you start getting into some impressive saws. Ridgid has a new saw that has just been released, the R4511 with a granite top, riving knife, fully enclosed base etc... designed and licensed by Steel City, built by TTI (Ryobi) and branded as Ridgid... It's reported to be a very impressive saw, and the $599.00 price tag is certainly a bargain for that much saw.


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## Wannabewoodworker (Dec 28, 2008)

*Planner Advice*

Someone suggested that I should focus on a thickness planner next to face up lumber and use my router as a economical jointer. Do you think that I should make a high quality table my priority or deal with the Ryobi table to save up money and spend about 300 to 400 on a good planer? If so what would you suggest on the planer. Any recommendations?

Wannbewoodworker


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

firehawkmph said:


> Danny,
> Please stick to the black regular style font. I don't know if it affects others the same way, but it is very difficult to read as compared to the black. It may be the italics also. Thanks
> Mike Hawkins


I totally agree with you. In addition the lack of capitaliztion and paragraphs also makes difficult reading. It just runs together into one big blob. I gave up trying to read it.

G


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Starting out is tough. You never know where you'll end up. Ask yourself what you think you will be building over the next 4 or 5 years. If you are making wide solid wood panels then a jointer is your best next bet. I got by with a 4" bench top for several years. That said, I think you would be well served to look for a more substantial table saw. Lots of good deals on used ones out there if you look. Check the paper, craigs list, etc for something you can pick up. You don't want to pay more for shipping than for the saw. A router table will get more use than you would have thought. Lots of plans are available. I made lots of great projects with HF pipe clamps at only $3 or $4 each. Use galvanized pipe instead of black pipe for less staining. You'll get the expensive Bessey's when you can afford em. Drill press and a bench top sander would be early choices as well.


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