# ultra natural "finish" for vertical grain douglas fir



## jjsmitty (Mar 6, 2011)

Can anyone offer suggestions for treating interior door/window CVG DF trim or point me to some links, I searched a bit, but did not find a specific answer. I do not want the appearance of any stain, enhanced color or obvious finish. I have tried the following samples:

Varathane IPN clear satin Diamond Finish (sanding between coats with 400)
Minwax water based polycrylic clear satin (sanding between coats)
Watco natural danish oil
Varathane wood conditioner pre-stain.

So far the minwax is my least favorite, the watco brings out too much color. The diamond finish is closest to what I want but still too much of a finished look. I like the look of just the wood conditioner by it's self, but never heard of that being done. I want to experiment with the wood conditioner and maybe a more minimal application of the satin diamond finish, is that ok?. I am trying to replicate some VGDF wainscot that I finished several years ago, but I can't remember what I did...Doh!

Thanks,
JJ


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

maybe try multiple coats of shellac then wipe down with 0000 steel wool.


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## TGRANT (Jan 25, 2011)

Here’s a minimal finish that’s reasonably durable unless it gets standing water on it. Mix ½ boiled linseed oil and ½ turpentine with a few drops of japan drier. The finish dries quickly with an 'in the wood' appearance. You can apply several coats buffing with fine sandpaper or just a piece of burlap. This finish colors the wood very little and brings out the grain a bit, but not too much.

Also agree with Jack. Blond or orange shellac that’s padded on looks good too, though it won't stand up to water or alcohol well.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

TGRANT said:


> Here’s a minimal finish that’s reasonably durable unless it gets standing water on it. Mix ½ boiled linseed oil and ½ turpentine with a few drops of japan drier. The finish dries quickly with an 'in the wood' appearance. You can apply several coats buffing with fine sandpaper or just a piece of burlap. This finish colors the wood very little and brings out the grain a bit, but not too much.
> 
> Also agree with Jack. Blond or orange shellac that’s padded on looks good too, though it won't stand up to water or alcohol well.


i just through the shellac out there cuz he wanted no, to little change in the wook. i myself dont use shellac and a finish cuz the reason tgrant stated.
i like the blo-turp-jap dryer. equal parts of glo, turp, and a varnish is basicly a danish oil. you can add less varnish to tone down the sheen. something to ploay with. test on scrap first. here in calif. i dont use the jap dry much, unless im making a home made varnish. i use the jap dry to dry out/harden the pine tar.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A 50/50 mix of a satin oil base interior varnish and mineral spirits (or VM&P Naptha for a faster dry), wiped on, leaves a natural look.












 





 
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## TGRANT (Jan 25, 2011)

All the posts by Jack and Cabinet Man are all great advice and highlight an important point. Mixtures of linseed oil, oil based varnishes and appropriate thinners in various combinations can be used to make a variety of concoctions that will finish wood and have different effects depending on the proportions. To some extent the proportions aren’t all that critical, except that if you use too much thinner you might have some adhesion problems. Mix and match and experiment. The finishes aren’t as durable as full strength varnishes or polyurethane’s, but are easy to apply, and relatively forgiving of dust, less than perfect surface preparation, shop temperature and humidity.

I’m not sure if there are water based equivalents since I don’t use water based finishes.


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## jjsmitty (Mar 6, 2011)

Hey everyone,
Thanks for the information, just what I was hoping for. 

For the BLO-Turp-JP mix, could low odor mineral spirits be used instead of turpentine?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TGRANT said:


> I’m not sure if there are water based equivalents since I don’t use water based finishes.


For the finish desired the OP isn't looking for a high build topcoat. Thinned oil base film finishes wouldn't necessarily have an adhesion problem if the previous application was scuff sanded.

I would have suggested waterbase polyurethane. It finishes well if sprayed, but in this application, it could be wiped on, or brushed on. I would recommend sanding the wood to 150 - 180x, as it would take less of any finish to just provide a protective film while leaving the feel and look of the grain.












 







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## TGRANT (Jan 25, 2011)

jjsmitty said:


> For the BLO-Turp-JP mix, could low odor mineral spirits be used instead of turpentine?


That’s a good question. I’ve never used it. Perhaps someone else can chime in. Some oil panting mediums (Liquin) are not compatible with low odor paint thinners, so it may also be true of wood finishes as well. Don’t know.


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