# nail and knot holes filling???



## MacDuffee (Jan 29, 2012)

OK, I have put together a table top out of reclaimed oak lumber from an old barn on my property. It has several "character" spots from nail holes and knots. I need to fill them in and not interested in putty/paste and would like to retain the look of the old wood but I also need it to be sealed and level to avoid voids for crumbs and liquids to fill them up with. What is the best options out there?

Also, I am planning to use polyeurathane to finish this. Do you guys think that will be fine for a dining room table? 

Thanks in advance.:thumbsup:


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Epoxy/resin bar top finish.


----------



## eccentrictinkerer (Feb 18, 2009)

I 'd use Minwax's wood filler. It's the buff-colored equivalent of Bondo. Minwax Wood Filler

Sets up to sand in less than 15 minutes, usually.

I used it to fill screw holes in 37 cabinet doors with eight holes in each door! It does not shrink. I've used Sharpie pens and tiny brushes with stain to mimic woodgrain. Under paint you'll never see it.

Or use epoxy and turquoise dust! My neighbor turns beautiful bowls and sometimes emphasizes the cracks to great effect.


----------



## MacDuffee (Jan 29, 2012)

:thumbsup: Thanks guys.


----------



## lacman (Mar 13, 2012)

*Filling holes*

Try using tootsie roll epoxy. it comes in light, brown, and black


----------



## ccrow (Jan 14, 2010)

CA Glue should work too. Depending on the depth and breadth of your character spots, you may need to use a heavier viscosity.

I really like the turquoise dust idea. I saw a table this weekend where turquoise, cooper wire, gumballs, sticks and similar materials were all used to fill the cracks along with thick CA glue.


----------



## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

You can also use clear polyester casting resin, it will look like liquid glass. It's what you see bugs encapsulated in, paper weights, ice cubes, etc.


----------



## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Unfortunately, casting resins do not have any real adhesion characteristics to them, for encapsulating they are excellent, for using in an area that might contract or expand, not the best way to go. "However" there are some that do have very good adhesion to wood and even metal, plastic, etc. So do be discerning when or if you purchase, so you know the products attributes as well as it's shortcomings as to it's end use. :yes:

As to other suggestions, epoxies yellow over time, though if that's not a concern, then it will be fine. From what you posted i assume any type of color filler is out of the question so i will not address those. CA glues will work but it can get cloudy on you over time, better to use an acrylic such as B-72 which has both perfect non yellowing clarity that will last a lifetime and good adhesion qualities. 

As to your other question about using poly for the table top, that will be fine, it will not interfere with the fillers at all after they have dried.


----------



## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

eccentrictinkerer said:


> Or use epoxy and turquoise dust! My neighbor turns beautiful bowls and sometimes emphasizes the cracks to great effect.


Wow. Thats stunning! Where do you find turquoise dust?


----------



## MacDuffee (Jan 29, 2012)

I did some more research and ended up just getting some burn in sticks. I will see how they work on some scraps. If I can't get a finish product that I find acceptable I will look into that B-72 product.

Thanks for all the advice guys! Ryan


----------



## sawdust55109 (Mar 18, 2012)

I've had great success filling knots and such with a 2 part epoxy. i usually add a couple drops of black or dark brown dye (trans-tint at rockler or woodcraft) and then sand.


----------



## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

Stone chips and powders can be made using an old garbage disposer--temporarily rigged up in the back yard.

Run water with a hose and grind the soft stone---

Two part epoxy can be colored with powdered tempura paint.

Large open knots and openings could be removed and replaced using a router and an inlay set up--


----------



## rnfuller (Mar 16, 2011)

The guy at the local hardware store save his brass filings from the key machine for me. I use epoxy or CA and mix the filings with it to fill holes and knots.

Looks nice after sanding and finishing!


----------



## MacDuffee (Jan 29, 2012)

Thanks for the tips. I used the burn in sticks and they did OK for me. I wasn't crazy about how they looked after sanding them down but with some poly over the top of them they came out good enough for me. The table is by no means perfect just due to the reclaimed barn wood look but so far it looks nice and we are looking forward to finishing the base and moving it into the house.

Will probably rework the base or make an entirely new base with some stronger joints. I slapped this one together and it has a small wiggle to it. With 2 small kids I know the small wiggle will turn into a large wiggle really fast...


----------

