# chainsaw mill



## Rick C.

I've been researching mills for a while.Started out looking at used bandsaw mills,not much luck unless I'm willing to fork over 8k or better.Seems no one is selling the manual mills once they get them.In the northern catalog ther are acouple in the 5-7k range new and I figured it wouldn't be too hard to find something in that range used cheaper.As usual I figure wrong.I started looking at chainsaw mills and saw the logosolM7 & woodworker mills.I like the idea of getting the log high enough so I don't have old,fat,self crawling on the ground as with the Alaskan mills.The price seems reasonable and I could also use a bigger saw.
Does anyone here have an opinion or experience with this mill?Is the Huskey 385xp powerfull enough or should I upgrade?Does anyone know of another manufacturer of a similar mill?
It also never fails that after I buy something a better deal pops up or I find I made a big mistake.Any help is always appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick


----------



## Termite

The 385 is a good powerful saw but you need all the power you can get for a mill. A 120cc saw is ideal. I guess how much to be milled would be important.


----------



## Rick C.

Termite,
I have called logosol and asked about the 395xp upgrade because in their site they used the 395 for a shootout.The rep said they reccomend the 385 because of less vibration and smoother cut.The mill can be purchased w/o the saw and I'm checking on the 880,3120 and Jonsereds 2186.
Thanks,
Rick


----------



## Daren

Well here is my $.02. Logosol is a very good company, the M7 is a well designed piece of equipment...but at the end of the day it's still a chainsaw mill. 
There has been much discussion of chainsaw mills here, I would like to have one with people with experience using them chime in (since I have none) with the pros and cons.
Off the top of my head, cons:

2 stroke powerplant that I don't care what anyone says is not made for this kind of work and it will shorten it's life IMO. Then a guy is out looking for another $700-$1000 chainsaw. My little 13 HP Honda has 1000's of hours on it (no hour meter) and still runs like the day I got it and I expect it to for several more years...if not $600 at the lawn mower shop next door.

Noisy, I would not want to hear a chainsaw run for hours on end.

Mixing gas/oil, keeping a 5 gallon bucket of bar oil too.

The last thing I can think of is the labor vs. bft in an hr/day. Logosols site said they broke the 200 bft hr mark at a shootout...that is with a 2 man team. Still pretty darn good for a chainsaw mill though. By myself on my cheapest of cheap little TA Schmid 400 bft an hour is not working very hard (2 logs 24" diameter X 8' long). The guys with "real sawmills" here can double my bft per hr easy.

Pros:

Obvious portability both in the field and storage when not in use.

Blade sharpening equipment is inexpensive compared to bandsaws, you can afford to do the chains yourself.

Slightly cheaper initial investment. Not as much as most would think once it all adds up. I spend $4500 on mine and so far the only thing other than gas/crankcase oil/bandblade sharpening I have spent was $4 for a new starter rope (that was enough for 2, bought a spare)

I would like to see others weigh in on the subject, add to what I said or correct me if you know better. Just about everyone I have ever talked to who "started" with a chainsaw mill either quit milling or upgraded to a bandmill. So a guy has to think about trade-in/resale on his chainsaw mill. Like I said Logosol is a good company and I would think a guy would do alright there.

Very limited part time use I think chainsaw mills have their place. A "weekend warrior" who has some timber and some time. Having said that the M7 with a powerhead is $3000...for round numbers if a guy can get a local sawyer with a bandmill to saw for $.30 bft that is 10,000 bft of lumber sawn by a pro and a guy doesn't have to fight that chainsaw mill. 10,000 bft is alot of work with a chainsaw mill, I would suspect :sweatdrop:...and how many $100's will a guy have in gas/oil milling 10,000 bft...another $1000 ? My 4 stroke runs all day on $5 gas, and I can mill a big pile in a day even with my little manual mill.

For my money I would keep looking for a bandmill. They are out there. I think TexasTimbers sold one he had that was in real good shape for under $4000 (if I am wrong TT correct me) when he upgraded to a bigger WoodMizer.


----------



## Julian the woodnut

Rick, I would heed Darens warning. Think of more than the initial investment, and look at the longterm issues. Patience is a must when hunting down a great deal, so hold off till the right one comes your way.


----------



## rocklobster

If you are going to take milling seriously, I wouldn't reccomend going with a chain saw mill. I buy most of my lumber in the classifieds but will occasionally mill a tree with a CSM. It's hard work and takes a lot of time to turn out much.

I am okay with it as I do only one or two trees a year at this point. However, I'm looking into finding a sawmill to do work for me since I have someone willing to give me some trees.

Despite Daren's lack of experience with them, his advice was very accurate as far as what I know.

Good luck.

Rob


----------



## Rodney Sinclair

Rick, I have the M7 mill for several years now and can tell you it will do everything Logosol says it will. And I use the Husky 385 with it. The saw is all you really need, I think. I got 4 bars I use with it. The 16", 20", 24" and 36". I'd say 90% of the time I use the 16" and most of the other 10% I use the 24". The 36" is used mostly for quartering logs for the 1220 TimberKing band mill I also have.

Darin hit on most of the things for you, but I'll add this. I'll turn 65 in Nov and I promise you either mill will do more than I want to anymore. And you better have a tractor of some sort to help.

The M7 with the 385 costs about half of the 1220 new. The M7 cuts 17' and the 1220 at that price cuts 12'. Another section of deck to cut 17' on the 1220 run around $800.

I don't remember what they said the M7 weight is but it's heavy enough you just don't run around in the woods with the thing. The truth here is the 1220 is easier to move and set up than the M7.

Chains and band blades are a whole story by themself. If you get a chainsaw mill, you will learn about sharpening chains. You gotta keep them sharp. Not just sharp but sharp sharp. You will also learn about bar and saw maint.

Bandblade sharpening is another story. All I'll say here is I do with a stone on a RAS. There is a thread on here from back a couple of months with some pic.

Other than that I'll say that when I got the bandmill, I kept the M7 chainsaw mill and still use it a good bit. To me, they are worth it.

Hope this helps
Rodney


----------



## Daren

Rodney Sinclair said:


> Bandblade sharpening is another story. All I'll say here is I do with a stone on a RAS. There is a thread on here from back a couple of months with some pic.


Yea I thought that was pretty clever. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/1-stone-8873/

Thanks for chiming in Rodney, someone with personal experience not just me rambling on. So you would say you are using the M7 on smaller logs then ? And the bandmill for larger diameter ones. The reason I ask is when a guy is mill shopping he needs to take into account the kinda logs he has access to (size, hardwood/softwood)


----------



## Rodney Sinclair

Daren, I can mill larger stuff on the M7 than on the 1220. On the TimberKing, about 30'' is max. And it has to be a stright log. That doesn't happen often. And I have milled Red Oak over 60" with that M7. Lot of work and double cuts but I got it done.

I kept the M7 for several reasons. First I didn't really need the money and it is a lot more fun to work with. And if I got the 1220 off somewhere else doing a job, I still got a mill at home. But I guess the biggest reason is most people think it's a joke and a toy. You just can't be a sawyer unless you got a bandmill. You know how it is.

And the saw! Well, I gotta have a big saw either way and the 385 does do the job.

Rodney


----------



## Daren

There is your answer Rick...2 sawmills :w00t:

I don't want to give the impression I think chainsaw mills are toys, far from it. In the right circumstances they have thier place in the sawmill world. Around here though a bandmill is most practical for me (and some consider my mill a toy :shifty Sawing hardwood logs up to 36" diameter like mine will handle I just would not want to do with a chainsaw mill. The big ones, like in my avatar, I still have to resort to a chainsaw to bust it. To each his own for sure. This discussion is just the things to think about which ever way a guy goes.

Ease of use
Daily and long term upkeep
Intial investment and future expenses


----------



## TexasTimbers

This discussion settles it for me; I'm keeping my sawmill *and *my CSM. :icon_cheesygrin:

Actually I don't have a CSM, or you could say I *am *the CSM since I freehand everything. I pretty much only use the long bars to take crotch flitches out and also to quarter logs too large for the mill. 

Rick I don't think I can add anything to what has been said. I have no experience with an actual CSM either. I've had a 4 stroke slabber "on the drawing board" for about 4 years. Have all the major components just need to carve the time out to fabricate the frame and throw the compnents together in some sort of logical manner. Maybe I'll get a round to it one of these years. 

I'd keep looking for a used band mill. I want to say I sold mine for $4500 but can't remember that far back. They're out there in that range though, you just have to keep looking.....


----------



## Rick C.

Thanks Guys,
I know exactly what I'm gonna do now.Wife!Bring me my drivers liscense I forgot my name again:wacko:.Need a bigger chainsaw,chainsaw mill kills two birds with one stone,even though chains will differ.
Bandsaw mill a little higher initially but maint. and fuel/oil costs are lower and get bigger saw later:thumbsup:.Oh,wait I still haven't busted this big cherry open yet,need bigger saw to cut it.Then again,4more days of swingin' this sledge hammer and I should get it and save the $1400:wallbash::wallbash:.I don't need to be in a hurry,I have 3 log piles in the yard,1 pile in the pasture another at the sawyer.Problem is one pile was supposed to be done a month ago,my kiln is empty and the lumber stack is dwindling:furious: .
As usual there are many excellent points.the reason I ask here,I'll keep looking and try to keep the panic levels down:bangin:.
If anyone wants a killer deal on a mill wait 'til after I buy one and many will go on sale cheap.
Thanks again guys,pros and cons are what I was lookin' for.:thumbsup:
Still have a few months I gave myself to look.
Rick


----------



## smithingman

Hi All,
New member here. I recently bought an M7 and it works very well. I am an Artist-Blacksmith who is getting into doing more wood/metal furniture. I have access to very cheap/free lumber-have a friend who is a logger and hooks me up with logs. When I bought the mill I did what I usually do with my tool purchases-I figured out what I wanted to do with the tool and bought accordingly. I am not looking to become a sawyer-just put more profit in my pocket. When we built the table in the picture (4'x8' black walnut-the legs are 2 inch square solid stock forged down to 1/2x2-the stretcher is mortise and tenoned into the legs-yes,you can mortise and tenon metal) the wood cost almost $4,000.00-why shouldn't I keep that money if I can? So far I have done 5 really nice hard maple logs(crotch wood-up to 40" wide),some red oak, and now some pine to build a solar drier with. I needed a mill that was easy to move and put away when not in use. In the dollar range that I had available, most of the band mills I looked at don't have a trailer-and I didn't want to build one. So far, the Logosol M7 works very nicely and cuts accurately.
Just my .02, Mark Emig


----------



## bugman1954

I can't imagaine cutting lumber all day with a chainsaw. Just quartering logs with a chainsaw is a time consuming operation. The nice thing about it is you can take it to the forest and cut your wood, especially if you don't have a tractor or some other method of moving the logs. I keep thinking if I could just win powerball I would buy me an LT70, just to play with. Not likely. _ I still love my cheap cheap sawmill._

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/cheap-sawmill-9589/


----------



## TexasTimbers

Welcome Mark. 

I was just staring at the table and scratching my head . . . 

_"I just saw that table recently, but where? New member, first post, wasn't here. Where was it?". _

Then the light bulb came on. I checked your join date and figured it out. I must have seen the picture in the random gallery pics that scroll across the site. Very nice piece. 

But man, $4000 for the walnut? :icon_eek: I sure would like to see a top view of it . . . must have some of the best figure ever found in walnut. I just can't imagine paying ~ $60 BF for ANY kind of walnut including highly figured Claro. What's the scoop?


.


----------



## smithingman

It was a single piece 4'x8'-highly figured-came out to be quite beautiful. It was kiln dried to 7%-we got it from Berkshire Products. We had a tight deadline for the client-no choice in where we got it. The designer was specific in the type of wood she wanted and wanted a big table with 1 piece of wood-no splits, butterflies, or cracks were specified also. By the way-the legs were my design-not the designers-she designed something unbuildable (how unusual-a designer designing something unbuildable). By the time all was said and done, the table went for a lot of money. Oh, for another commision like that-things are way slow in the ornamental iron game now. A few years later-no bows or cracks (yet).
Thanks for the compliment-Mark Emig


----------



## smithingman

Just another quick comment-the bowed part of the legs started out as a 36" chunk of 2" solid stock-after forging the taper they were 56 inches long. The 2" solid stock is something like 12 pounds per foot-heavy to handle when it is glowing at 2,150 degrees with a 18" long heat on it- good thing I have a 110 lb air hammer.
Mark.


----------



## TexasTimbers

A slab that big with lots of figure - kiln dried to 7% no checks or other defects - okay I can see that happening. I couldn't tell it was a slab for the breadboards. 

Those Nakashima Conoid chairs don't hurt a thing either. I'd like to see more of your work if you get the notion.


----------



## smithingman

The chairs weren't mine (boy were they nice)-they were in the designers gallery-now defunct. I partnered up with a skilled wood guy to do the table-who I learned a lot from. My skills are rudimentary-but not for long. I am kind of handy with the craft type stuff. The picture of the bench/coffee table is my latest thing. Made from actual wrought iron not steel -reclaimed from 100 year old fence panels-mortise and tenon construction. The top is a chunk of real mahogany( he had it sitting for 20 years or so in his shop) I got from a woodworking friend-about 1-1/2x14x40 or so.
Mark


----------



## smithingman

Opps-sorry-that one is the first one I did-has a cedar top 2 pieces. The next one I dropped the stretcher bar about 2 inches-looked a lot nicer.
Mark


----------



## mics_54

In a perfect world...it's nice to have a chainsaw mill and a band saw mill to fit the same track. Chainsaw to cut cants and bandsaw to make lumber of clean fresh cants.
I use a 2186xp saw on the mill and a 385xp for bucking. I sure wouldn't want to lift a log more than a few inches so my jonsered mill is perfect.

I have been looking at buying a ban mill headrig for my 22' track. Too spendy right now.


----------



## MidGAOutdoor

no way in hell id pay 3k for the logosol when u can get a hud-son oscar 121 for $3095 or a mill from harbor freight for 2k. i have an alaskan CSM and a husqvarna 445 and i hate it. its good on small stuff like 12 to 14in in diameter but on larger stuff its a PITA. i am running a 20in bar on this saw which maxes it out.


----------



## woodzwayz

If you want to cut crotches, really crooked wood, really large logs, in moderation, then a chainsaw is the way to go. A big saw and an alaskan, similar csm, m7 or whatever, is handy to have around even if you have a bandmill. Even just a big saw, you can snap lines or stand a log on end and cut straight down, chainsaw carvers freehand out bench seats this way all the time, letting gravity do the work. You can use a simple sled on board rails and router to flatten any size slab, or straightedges and hand planes if you want a workout. If you have a big saw, you can go with a smaller bandmill, something that sits on the ground. And the two together is a lot cheaper than a really big bandmill. If you want to mill a lot of small to medium sized stuff then get a small bandmill first. If you want to mill a little bit of really big or really weird stuff, then get a big chainsaw. If you want to mill a lot of really big stuff, then you gotta step up to a dedicated slabber, or it won't be long before saw costs are gonna exceed the costs of the right tool for the job.

I have an LT15, Stihl MS660 and 30" Alaskan. I chainsaw carve and build various things out of wood; decks, mantles, playhouses, coat racks, etc... There are several things I've been meaning to add; 4' bar, 52" rails for the alaskan, the Granberg mini-mill, need to build a jig/sled for LT15 to handle small logs, I have an antique 26" bandsaw I got for free that needs just a little tlc new tires and guides, want to set it up like the 'cheap mill' shown here, mostly to handle short and small stuff. Then I have a Grizzly 14" bandsaw.

I do think the M7 is putting a lot of money into a chainsaw setup, but I didn't realize it would cut stuff as big as some people are using it for. One thing I think I'd like about it is that it's always pretty much setup and ready to go. You can hang an Alaskan mill on the wall, but I've had one about five years now and I've always found the setup to be a hindrance. It sits long enough I've got to relearn it, find the rails or whatever special jigs I might need, or make new ones, put it on saw, the height adjustment is fussy, it's just a pain. With the bandmill I just throw a log on and fire it up, just so easy. Pretty much looked at every option for quite a while before pulling the trigger on a bandmill. The LT15 is pretty expensive for it's 22" log capacity, but it's big enough for most of what I want to cut, bench seats, half logs, etc..., and it does have some nice features that some of the other small mills don't like a better quality setup for height adjustment. For some reason most mill manufactures think that people who want small mills don't want quality, rickety height adjustment, cables, inadequate rails, etc... Just seemed like the LT15 was the closest thing to being built the same as a bigger mill only smaller. But that's certainly debatable.


----------



## MidGAOutdoor

yea the height adjustment on the alaskan is a pain. i just shered off my U bolt that u loosen to adjust the height.


----------



## neohillbilly

*Logosol M7 sawmill for sale $3000*



Rick C. said:


> I've been researching mills for a while.Started out looking at used bandsaw mills,not much luck unless I'm willing to fork over 8k or better.Seems no one is selling the manual mills once they get them.In the northern catalog ther are acouple in the 5-7k range new and I figured it wouldn't be too hard to find something in that range used cheaper.As usual I figure wrong.I started looking at chainsaw mills and saw the logosolM7 & woodworker mills.I like the idea of getting the log high enough so I don't have old,fat,self crawling on the ground as with the Alaskan mills.The price seems reasonable and I could also use a bigger saw.
> Does anyone here have an opinion or experience with this mill?Is the Huskey 385xp powerfull enough or should I upgrade?Does anyone know of another manufacturer of a similar mill?
> It also never fails that after I buy something a better deal pops up or I find I made a big mistake.Any help is always appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Rick


 

Hey Rick where are you located?? I just moved to central florida from Arkansas and I have a Logosol M7 for sale $3000 used very little, has a Stihl 460 with a 24" blade, and yes its nice not bending over and turning logs, light and portable, very cool mill.
call me if intrested. Denny Mullins 386-837-4725 or email me @ 
[email protected]


----------



## shadetree_1

Hi Folks,

Not a pro or con, just a memory:

Just thought I'd add my 2 cents worth, I built my dream a few years ago, a log house and my wife and myself got a permit for the logs ( in the White Mountains of Arizona ) and brought them in, all 100 of them, I built a jig to bolt to my bar (on an old old wore out Husky rancher), nailed a rough cut 2x8 to the top of the log and the jig held me 1" off the 2x8 and I walked the saw down both sides of the log to have 2 flat sides, I thought it would kill me before I got them all done, I wish I had a CSM then but could not afford it, we just made do.

Raised 4 babies and two Grandsons there, talk about the memorys!! Too darn old for that stuff anymore, now I just cut Desert Ironwood and make a few pen blanks and knife handles, I run the 365 Huskys now and would not have anything else!

Thanks for letting an old man run off at the mouth !

Joe:yes:


----------



## TexasTimbers

Hey Joe, I think what you accomplished was much more impressive than owning a bunch of expensive machinery and making furniture. Welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:





.


----------



## shadetree_1

TexasTimbers said:


> Hey Joe, I think what you accomplished was much more impressive than owning a bunch of expensive machinery and making furniture. Welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank You Sir !!! 
All in all it was a hard job but fun still, while my wife and I set up a tripod on the floor of the house and some gin poles and a 3/8 200' cable through a snatch block and hooked it to our old 1965 ford f100 to pull the logs up on the floor (this was 1981 and we still have the truck), the kids rode their bikes across the floor, WE HAD A BALL !!

4 bedroom/3 bath fireplace with a flagstone facing and a vaulted living room ceiling with exposed logs, yea, it was worth it!! We are only able to use it in the summer now because with Linda's COPD she can't breath in that cold air ( 8,200' in elevation ) But it is sure nice to get out of this 115 degrees in Phoenix now and then!

Joe:smile:


----------



## kpantherpro

hey Joe thanks for sharing those memories with us, and smithingman, very nice work, Rick if you use an alaskan style mill, raising to a comfortable working height is a must, while they won't match the speed of a bandmill, the cut quality can be outstanding, not only that but portability and cost is a major consideration, these mills will pay for themselves and most of your equiptment the first weekend. also another option is a csm carraige, let's you leave the log on the ground, and you walk beside it as it's cutting. all for under a $1000. have a look www.pantherpros.com to be honest i do make these, but if i can save you some money, and help others out as well, hey I'm all for it, times are tough all over...


----------



## woodtick greg

ok heres my .02 worth, as some of the others have said csm have their place. I think that a person just has to determin what their needs are. some may have done it but csm for profit is not a good idea. I started to csm as a way to obtain wood inexspensively. yes it is very hard work but it is also very fun imo. i can mill all day or untill my 50 year old body gives out on 1 1/2 gal. of fuel and the same for bar oil. just milled 150 - 200 bd ft of white oak on less than that and my time:thumbsup: my shop is full and so is my 2 car garage:yes: so it does what I need and all it cost me is some fuel, oil, sore muscles and sweat. I will buy a bandmill but will never get rid of my csm, it can be used to reduce the size of very large logs to fit on a bandmill, as daren has said, or for very large live edge slabs. another point is what about the 5 thousand pound 38" diameter walnut log thats in someones back yard and no way to get it out, I carried my csm in and scored big time on that one:yes: yup I have snapped a few u bolts for the height adjusters, about a 1$ at home depot and now I carry several spares in my milling tool box. csm has opened up a world of opertunity for me as wood is free if you look:blink: but I don't csm for money just for my use and my friends:thumbsup:


----------



## greg4269ub

Hey there every one I am looking to buy a csm to break down large logs small enough for my lt15 to handle. I will on occasion slab out 1 or 2 natural edge pieces. I will likely purchase a new husky 3120xp or a 395xp with a 4' bar to get the job done. What will be my best option when it comes to the mill? Any safety equipment I should look at buying at the same time?

greg


----------



## TexasTimbers

greg4269ub said:


> . . . Any safety equipment I should look at buying at the same time?
> 
> greg



Chaps & a helmet with face screen/ear muffs is about it. Unless you're a glove-wearer. I can't stand to wear gloves unless absolutely necessary. Even in winter when my feet are blocks of ice, my hands rarely get cold so I don't wear them then either. 

A nice pair of thick industrial-grade ankle-top boots wouldn't hurt, because slinging a 4' blade will make your arms droopy eventually, and you could nick your feet/ankle area accidentally. I usually freehand with the 6' bar and so it's too long for me to nick myself - it's longer than I am tall. But when I've use the 42" bar I have cut through my boot tongues twice, once I did remove an ounce of meat or so from my foot. 

You do have to be careful freehanding. I know you said you're going to get a CSm but with a short bar like that you'll most likely try your hand at free style also. Just be careful when you do. 






.


----------



## greg4269ub

thanks for the safety advice TT. I will be sure to make those purchases when I get the saw. 

There are several CSM on the market does anyone have any recommendations for or against any particular one?


----------



## woodtick greg

look at baileys on line or request a cataloge. for the size bar you intend to run I would recomend a double ended bar and their helper handle because the helper handle has its own heavy duty roller in the handle and it covers the bar end for safety. they also offer an aux bar oiler so that both sides of the bar will have proper oiling, highly recomended! I have been using the granberg alaskan mill with much success and make my own slabbing brackets for the all important first cut. it is relatively light weight which is an important feature imo. I have milled thousands of board feet with mine and its still going, will probably out last the saw powerhead. the other thing is it is relatively inexspensive and highly portable, you go to the logs not the other way around, which means you wont have to move the really big logs, just roll them as needed, good heavy duty cant hooks are also recomended with long handles for leverage.


----------



## TexasTimbers

woodtick greg said:


> . . . good heavy duty cant hooks are also recomended with long handles for leverage.


Greg's right Greg they are indispensable. I have two cants and a peavey from LogRite. They are the cat's meow. Made of aluminum they are light weight but stout. I have some wood-handled ones also but they haven't seen any action for years.

If you don't want to spend the coin on the LR ones, wooden ones are just fine and you can make the hook yourself out of 3/8" or 1/2" plate, and the hook ring can be made any number of ways. 1/4" plate would not stand up to the abuse I think. 

If you want to make your own, the hook shape is important. You can get the pattern from the replacement parts section of some website & trace it then blow it up on a printer. I'm not sure what website to get it from. :whistling2:

I didn't say none of that. :shutup:





.





.


----------



## kpantherpro

shameless plug coming but Greg, try my panthermill 2, if your seekig portability, my new design was built to last and way stronger than ones costing twice as much,(won't say any names) while still being well balanced, to date i have not heard one negative thing from those who have used my new mill, I do take pride in these and stand behind them 100%. if you get it and your not happy let me know I'll make it right... check out www.pantherpros.com if nothing else do it because i have the same shirt, and was born and raised in WI....lol


----------



## TexasTimbers

Panther,

I checked out your site. Have you thought about putting up a short video showing the use of each of the 3 basic designs? Looks like some good designs.





.


----------



## greg4269ub

LOL Panther! I like your pitch I believe I looked at your site very briefly I will look again and see if it works for me. I have opted to go with a husky 395xp with a 50" blade. I generally buy logs no longer than 10' in length. Will your mill work for logs that long? If i remember right you sell some sort of starter track to get the cutting started right?


----------



## SawmillTrader

*Used LOGOSOL Wood workers Mill on SawmillTrader.com*

Rick

If you are still interested in a LOGOSOL Woodworkers Mill, there is a used one for sale on www.SawmillTrader.com in the Chainsaw Mills category that was just posted today.

Dave

SawmillTrader.com


----------



## fish-n-fins

Nothing shameless 'bout Panther promoting a system that works- the attached photos are my bounty from Irene- using an Echo CS8000 with a 28" bar- FnF


----------



## kpantherpro

wow fish-n-fins i knew the name sounded familiar,you've been busy, you've got my older design but still a very nice mill, thanks for the pictures


----------



## kpantherpro

greg4269ub said:


> LOL Panther! I like your pitch I believe I looked at your site very briefly I will look again and see if it works for me. I have opted to go with a husky 395xp with a 50" blade. I generally buy logs no longer than 10' in length. Will your mill work for logs that long? If i remember right you sell some sort of starter track to get the cutting started right?


:yes:as long as you want to cut my mills will get you through it, the are all solid designs. yeah I include how to make a slabbing platform in my instructions out of plywood for the panthermill 2, keeps it light and portable, I also make rails I sell in interconnectable lengths of 6' or 8' lengths which is what I prefer since they are very ligthwieght, easy to haul around and don't succumb to weather so easily, but if your tight on money you can use a board, ladder, or a system like fish-n-fins uses. i prefer a method that sits on top of the log(rather than on the side as some systems use) as your cuts will stay straighter with less imperfections, not too mention alot quicker to set up as well. Again I do make three differant systems so please don't confuse them, the panthermill 2 is completely differant then my carraige type systems, also for any noobs, you only need to do this for your first cuts, after that you can follow your previous cut.


----------



## kpantherpro

TexasTimbers said:


> Panther,
> 
> I checked out your site. Have you thought about putting up a short video showing the use of each of the 3 basic designs? Looks like some good designs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


 hey Texas Timbers, spent this weekend starting to clear some property so I can do some video, probably won't have it all done until after Christmas though, my website guy's gonna come down and we'll do some higher quality video, and maybe some tutorial vids as well... so anything you guys can think of needs to go in those let me know.


----------

