# Homemade "Wooden" Bandsaw Mill



## don716

I've been wanting to come up with some plans for a Homemade bandsaw mill made from wood.One that will cut logs about 4-5' long. More or less something for the crafter or hobbist. It would look like the larger ones but on a smaller scale and made of wood.I want something I can keep in my shop and use when I find that special "small" log. Anyone have some advise or plans for something like this? Remember "Miniture Sawmill".. It will not be used all the time.I know it can be done so help me with some input. Where to start? I think I will get some brochures on other full size mills and see what I can do to downsize it.
Donny


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## Daren

When you say "made from wood", how much of it ? IMO certain parts just will not be sturdy enough made from wood if you are building a stand alone bandsaw mill. Or are you thinking something more like this http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/resaw-sled-7552/


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## Nate1778

Funny you mention that Daren, I could not find a picture of it online but in a recent mag I got one of the "readers Projects" was a pic of a ~18" wooden standup bandsaw. It was constructed of all wood. Plywood sides and MDF wheels. Even the table was made from wood. In the notes under the picture the guy said he had been using it for years, only thing metal on it were the nuts and bolts and the blade.


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## TexasTimbers

I have seen cars made from all wood.. I guess it is possible but like Daren says some parts would be a lot easier made with metal.


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## don716

I was thinking of getting an old 14" bandsaw with a riser block that didn't work and taking it off the stand and building a frame in order to lay it on it's side. Then building a wooden frame with sled for it to run on.Maybe add a 5hp briggs motor on it and see what happens. Now, anyone kindly get the idea?It would be just like a regular bandsaw mill but on a much smaller scale.
If you can cut a small log on a regular "Upright" bandsaw you should be able to put it on its side and add a little more power and do the same with the log lying on a sled.Am I right?,or am I missing something?
Let me know what you think of this idea.......


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## don716

Daren,

I noticed that you have 2700 more posts than me.That's ALOT but give me time and I might catch up.:laughing:

Donny:thumbup:


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## Daren

If you are thinking about scavenging an old electric upright bandsaw...just put a bigger electric motor on it. It would already be geared for the motors RPM. One big draw back is it would be a "ON or OFF" type deal instead of idle and a clutch to engage with rpm like a gas unless you could figure that part out. They make many electric bandsaw mills, I have never ran one. But one of the members here showed one his dad (?) has, and if I am not mistaken joasis has a buddy that runs one. Electric motor are actually more efficient for what you are talking, they make 2+ the torque as gas so a 3 hp electric would be more "powerful" that a 7 hp gas (if anyone knows the exact equation on that feel free to jump in) Plus no fumes it could be used in a shop.

The other things to consider are for one a larger blade, thicker and wider for a better cut. I think that would be a must. They would be available but the wheels on the machine may not accept them ?

The rolling down the track part would not be too difficult. A good solid base (deck) and the head suspended on a frame that has 4 wheels...
But having ran a sawmill I know that head is going to want to buck and jump cutting a hard log. It's going to want to pull the saw into the log. Let me explain that if I can. The torque you are applying to the blade/the friction of the cut pulls the sawmill head sideways, or if the log was not held securely just flip the log off the deck. There is alot of side force involved that you would not maybe understand until you had a chance to run a small bandmill. That racking force is where I said wood would not be my first choice, it is constantly under racking stress that I think would just tear it up unless it was made with great care (and a ton of wood and fasteners)

Raising and lowering the head for cut thickness is another challenge. For me probably the biggest challenge. You want that head to accurately raise and lower and stay there through the whole cut.

Those are the things off the tops of my head I see in design...I am sure there are 100 others. I am a big time tinkerer, but I don't think something like you are talking is something I would tackle. IMO unless you had access to a small warehouse of "odds and ends" you are going to end up spending more money that just buying an entry level mill like the Wood-Mizer LT10...it folds up out of the way when not in use:icon_smile:


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## TexasTimbers

don716 said:


> Daren,
> 
> I noticed that you have 2700 more posts than me.That's ALOT but give me time and I might catch up.:laughing:
> 
> Donny:thumbup:


I didn't notice he passed me. I am glad though. I hated having the title of "Resident Bucket Mouth".

:laughing:
:w00t::lol::jester:​


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## tw36571

I have been interested in the same type of mill. I have a chainsaw attachment but i just don't see why you couldnt make a smaller bandsaw mill. Check out lumbersmith.com. This is what i think you are talking about.


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## don716

Daren,

Where can I get info on that LT-10 mizer mill ? Is that the smallest one they have?

Donny


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## Daren

don716 said:


> Daren,
> 
> Where can I get info on that LT-10 mizer mill ? Is that the smallest one they have?
> 
> Donny


http://www.woodmizer.com/us/sawmills/manual/lt10/lt10.aspx 
I see them on eBay and other places for sales used for pretty reasonable.


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## tswoodshop

If you're thinking of making a bandmill from scratch yourself, from everything I've seen and read the biggest problem folks run into is tracking. You have to crank a pretty good amount of tension on a blade to keep it slicing that log without dipping and warping, especially when the blades starts to dull. When you start to rack your mill with tension like that, unless it's built correctly to account for that "abuse", you start twisting things out of true and run into all sorts of problems, not the least of which is keeping your band on the wheels. 

Not saying it can't be done... have seen lots of plans out there, but just saying there is more to it than attaching a couple wheels to hold a band to a frame and getting power to them. That's the easy part.


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## don716

Daren,

Thanks for the info. The LT-10 looks like what I would want.Now, if I only had the $$$$$$. It's got all the features I would like.I just wonder how expensive the blades are? Size,TPI....I'm going to put some thought into it.

Thanks, Donny


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## Daren

don716 said:


> .I just wonder how expensive the blades are? Size,TPI....


I run a 144" long, 1 1/4" wide, .042 thick, 1 TPI on my mill...they cost $18 or so each. They will cut many logs (_*real*_ logs, not like you are talking) and reset/resharpening is $7, that can be done several times to the same band. Wood-Mizer has a band blade selector. http://www.woodmizerblades.com/bladeSelector/index.aspx?gclid=CKnM8-avtZgCFRo-awodmDKybA
I have no idea why I am pimping for them, I don't run even one, I run a http://www.taschmid.com/ :thumbup1:


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## jfs477

*it isn't wood but check it out*

http://cgi.ebay.com/BAND-SAWMILL-PLANS-CD-TOOL-SAW-MILL-WELDER-BUILD-NEW_W0QQitemZ220354866253QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item220354866253&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

--john:thumbsup:


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## martyweir

:thumbsup:http://www.diybandmill.com/

If you have not already seen this site, check it out. Alot of usefull pictures & information on building bandmills, parts & pieces you may need, etc. I have been collecting parts to build, but it helps we have a pretty sizable scrap pile behind my office!!!

Like these guys said, i guess you could, but why? I've heard of making the wheels from mdf, but I think anything beyond this is impractical, bordering on insanity, but maybe that's just the motivation you need to prove us all wrong! Good luck...


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