# Zero Clearance insert for TS



## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

About a year ago, I realized that I needed to make a zero clearance insert for my tablesaw. I thought that I wanted to make one that I could use with many different blades, but didn’t want to have a bunch of them kicking around as well. So I thought I would make one with a removable insert that I could slip out when I change a blade, and slip in its corresponding insert, or a whole new one once it “wore out.”

After looking at my Craftsman contractor saw’s (model # 315.228390) current insert, I knew I would have my work cut out for me. I purchase this set from Rockler, loving the fact that two came in the package, so that I could make one for my regular blades, and one for my dado set as well. I have always wanted a zero clearance (ZC) for my dado blades, but wasn’t sure how I would be able to without having dozens of them laying around. I then proceeded to trace my existing insert on it and roughcut it on the bandsaw, as well as a piece of MDF. 









I like the fact that two phenolic inserts came in the package, so that I could make one for my regular blades, and one for my dado set as well. I have always wanted a zero clearance (ZC) for my dado blades, but wasn’t sure how I would be able to without having dozens of them laying around.
I then used a pattern making bit to route the piece of mdf the exact same size as the existing insert. This piece of MDF would then be the template. I did this because I didn’t like the idea of using a metal insert around a high speed router bit, in case of slippage, etc…. I then used double sided tape to stick the phenolic insert to the MDF template, and routed both future ZC inserts. I then started to cut the thru grooves (where the blade would go thru the insert).









After cutting the grooves, I started to route out the sides of the insert, since the existing insert was only 3/16” thick, and my Phenolic ones were ½” thick. I did the straight cuts with no problem, but then I had to get creative, since the opening for the tablesaw blade had some “ears” on it.








So I tried my hand as some “free hand” routing, and was able to get the clearance I needed to be able to set the new ZC inserts in the table saw.








Now you might be asking why the bottom insert has some of the groove routed out more, but not all the way thru….. When I set that insert in the tablesaw, and and attempted to tilt my blade to a full 45 degrees, I was not able to, because the insert was so thick. I had to make a “relief” routed groove, so the blade could tilt all the way. Here is a pic of them after all of this was done, but from the top:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I then routed out the dado on the top of the insert, where the removable insert would go. In doing so, it turns out that the “relief” goove I cut in turned out to go all the way thru. 
















I then put my dovetailing bit in the router, and used that to put a slight angle on the dado, so that the removable insert would be held in place








Then all I had left to do was plane down some scrap wood to the right thickness, which turned out to be some maple I had laying around. I then cut it to shape, and cut the bevel on it so that it fit into the dado on the ZC insert. Here is what it looked like fit into place.








Then all I had to do was drill out some holes, and I was done. This is the standard blade insert with some spare inserts:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

And My dado blade ZC insert with spares:












And here are a few pics of them in place and being used:




















I also have found to label the dado ones, so that I know what I blade arrangement I used when I cut it. It might help so as not to go thru as many. 










All in all, I really like this system. I have used it many times this last year, and when I put a new blade in the table saw, I get a new insert, and make my cut, and then have it for all future cuts. When I take the blade out, I take the wood insert out as well, and put it with my blade in is storage slot. That way, It doesn’t get misplaced, and I know exactly where it is. 

One thing that I never got around to doing is put the leveling screws in. My rabbet that I cut throughout the whole side of the insert was pretty much spot on, and I haven’t really seen a need for me to put them in. I still have them, and even bought the special drill bit to predrill for them, thinking I might need it.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

awesome.....I am going to have to contract you to make some for me....lol.....i hate making them for some reason......lol


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

We could probably work something out, Tom. I'm sure your new tablesaw setup would love it, once you make that mobile Tablesaw cart you are planning.

Fabian


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

yep.....you bet it would......lol.....just finishing up a drillpress cabinet/cart and the TS cart is next up.....:thumbsup:


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Brilliant! Great job.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Great idea, excellent photos and presentation. That is at least 10 Ataboy's
JIm


Ataboy's have no cash value and are not returnable or exchangeable for any other offerings.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Nice job. I saw one made from alum. with wood inserts. Very nice. I made one from some scraps I had. Worked good.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I forgot to mention the leveling screws. I drilled and tapped 4 thru holes, and used hex head set screws, that can be adjusted from above, with the insert in place. The first insert I made had screws in the bottom, and was a pita to adjust.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Any thoughts on why the insert should be metal or some hi tech futuristic plastic?
JIm 0311


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

jjrbus said:


> Any thoughts on why the insert should be metal or some hi tech futuristic plastic?
> JIm 0311


I've always used wood. No problems.


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## Hhaines (Nov 26, 2008)

I made mine out of laminate flooring scraps.....works well.....I made several at the same time and I just change to the one that works for the task.....


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## cody.sheridan-2008 (May 23, 2010)

looks great! I gotta make me some of these!


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

jjrbus said:


> Any thoughts on why the insert should be metal or some hi tech futuristic plastic?
> JIm 0311


I used the "hi tech futuristic plastic" because I didn't want any issues with possible expansion and contraction.... I am probably pretty paranoid about that, and I am sure wood would work just fine. Also, because my insert had to be routed to about 1/4" on the edges, I didn't know how well wood would hold up... I'm sure it would work fine, but I just felt better using it. Now, if and when I get my unisaw up an running, since I can have full thickness on the entire insert, I will most likely use wood.

Fabian


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Expansion and contraction did not cross my mind. Machining thinner wood will be an issue for me also, so maybe better with a plastic? I will look for something other than phenolic material, it' pricey. 
Thanks again JIm 0311


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I have heard that some guys like to use old plastic cutting boards for their inserts. The only issue I see with this is the thickness, possibly.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Since changing over to thin kerf blades, I need to redo mine. Mine are all made from wood except for two that are high tech plastic and they all stay outside on the carport near the saw. I've never had any problems with expansion or warping.

I like this idea of making removable strips for the dado blades.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Hey Johnnie.... I have also heard (I think from woodnthings) that you could fill in your old inserts with car bondo, and then recut the slot. It could be a tempory fix until you get around to making any replacements, if you still choose to.

Fabian


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

This is great and exactly what I need, thanks.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

thegrgyle said:


> Hey Johnnie.... I have also heard (I think from woodnthings) that you could fill in your old inserts with car bondo, and then recut the slot. It could be a temporary fix until you get around to making any replacements, if you still choose to.
> 
> Fabian


Just saw this. Sorry about being so slow to respond.

When I got my saw, it did not have an insert. So all of mine are ZCI's I just finished making one for the thin kerf blade last week. I am keeping the old one as is in case I ever need to use my 12 tooth full kerf rip blade.

I don't mine having several around. They all fit into an old plastic tool box and so are out of the way until needed.


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## bikeshooter (Nov 5, 2010)

thegrgyle said:


> I have heard that some guys like to use old plastic cutting boards for their inserts. The only issue I see with this is the thickness, possibly.


I have done this. The cutting boards _can_ be planed to thickness.
I made several passes at 1/64 or less but it's still rough on the knives.


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## wobrien (Feb 3, 2012)

thegrgyle said:


> I used the "hi tech futuristic plastic" because I didn't want any issues with possible expansion and contraction.... I am probably pretty paranoid about that, and I am sure wood would work just fine. Also, because my insert had to be routed to about 1/4" on the edges, I didn't know how well wood would hold up... I'm sure it would work fine, but I just felt better using it. Now, if and when I get my unisaw up an running, since I can have full thickness on the entire insert, I will most likely use wood.
> 
> Fabian


+1 I used oak for mine and wanted a nice tight fit. At the moment it is expanded to the point that I can't remove it. Unfortunately I may have to cut it out...


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

wobrien said:


> +1 I used oak for mine and wanted a nice tight fit. At the moment it is expanded to the point that I can't remove it. Unfortunately I may have to cut it out...


 
I'm sorry to hear that! I thought I was just being overly paranoid.... I wonder if you took a hair dryer, or heat gun to it, if it would dry it out enough to remove it. Or maybe lay some of those "moisture packets" that come with router bits and the such on top of it...... 

Just a thought....

Fabian


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## Eric13 (Jan 15, 2012)

As a sort of side question, do you guys make your inserts a bit of a press fit? I made a couple from some 1/4" lauan ply, and they are just snug enough to not pop out. I don't use anything to secure them, but I raise the blade slightly and then down to the height needed so the blade isn't dragging. I've not had one pop out while running, but now that I think about it perhaps I've just been lucky.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Eric13 said:


> As a sort of side question, do you guys make your inserts a bit of a press fit? I made a couple from some 1/4" lauan ply, and they are just snug enough to not pop out. I don't use anything to secure them, but I raise the blade slightly and then down to the height needed so the blade isn't dragging. I've not had one pop out while running, but now that I think about it perhaps I've just been lucky.


I personally try to hook the back of mine (from underneath), so that the blade won't throw it back at me if the insert catches on it. I shouldn't happen, but I would think an ounce of prevention is worth it considering the alternative.

Fabian


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

wobrien said:


> +1 I used oak for mine and wanted a nice tight fit. At the moment it is expanded to the point that I can't remove it. Unfortunately I may have to cut it out...


I put 2 short screws into one edge, and 1 into one end, to adj. to get a perfect fit.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Fabian, what is the thickness of the wood you are using? 

I was wondering if that had to be machined or can it be bought off the shelf. I don’t have a planer and I don’t want to try that on my joiner/planer. I seem to remember seeing some thin pieces sold at Lowes, but I’m not sure. I suppose I could rip them.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Sleeper said:


> Fabian, what is the thickness of the wood you are using?
> 
> I was wondering if that had to be machined or can it be bought off the shelf. I don’t have a planer and I don’t want to try that on my joiner/planer. I seem to remember seeing some thin pieces sold at Lowes, but I’m not sure. I suppose I could rip them.


I don't remember off hand, but I think it was 3/16". I did plane them in my planer, but you could rip them on a tablesaw, but be very careful about it. Make sure you joint the edge that is going against the fence first, and use push sticks. 

I will see if I can get a measurement and let you know for sure. They weren't store bought, that is for sure.

Fabian


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

thegrgyle said:


> I don't remember off hand, but I think it was 3/16". I did plane them in my planer, but you could rip them on a tablesaw, but be very careful about it. Make sure you joint the edge that is going against the fence first, and use push sticks.
> 
> I will see if I can get a measurement and let you know for sure. They weren't store bought, that is for sure.
> 
> Fabian


Thanks! I was at Lowes today and bought a piece of ¼, but I can see that it’s too thick. I’m surprised that these wood inserts aren’t made commercially. I guess they want to keep selling the expensive stuff. I don’t have a planer but at $30 a pop every time I change blades I could pay for one in no time. :yes:


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