# table-saw router-table



## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

i just finished this router-table, can't wait to try it. i built it off plans from finewoodworking magazine. i still need to cut the insert, add a miter slot, and with that add vertical and horizontal featherboards. the dust collection box in the magazine is very clever.

i am always surprised nobody seems to mention how they finish their jigs and fixtures, so, if i could suggest: its one or two coats of zinnser sander-sealer shellac, sanded to 220, then good old johnson's paste-wax. makes it slippery...a low coefficient of static friction.


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## Kirkus (Dec 19, 2010)

Oh wow, look at that dust collection. Looks like it's going to work really well. Very cool! That's something I'm not satisfied with on my router table... the dust collection.

Really nice job, cuneiform.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Nice. What issue of fww is that?


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## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

@kirkus thx mate

@PSD its issue #216, heres a link to the .pdf file:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/PlansAndProjects/PlansAndProjectsPDF.aspx?id=33749


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

That a nice looking fence. Nice dust setup.
Is there a way to easily clamp the fence down, if you need to use the ts fence for a rip?
I ran into that problem, and decided to make a separate fence for the router.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

*???...*

hose from router? is that the air the router is putting out? what is the hose connected to on the router? its possible the answer is right there in front of me haha!


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Nice looking router table. Let us know how it works for you. You should get many years outta that one. :thumbsup:


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

FiveOneSix said:


> hose from router? is that the air the router is putting out? what is the hose connected to on the router? its possible the answer is right there in front of me haha!


Not sure about the Triton, but my Freud 1700, came with a hose adapter for the router.


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## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

*hose*



FiveOneSix said:


> hose from router? is that the air the router is putting out? what is the hose connected to on the router? its possible the answer is right there in front of me haha!


the triton has a dust port for a 1 1/4" hose.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

*hmmmmm....*

it might be time to ditch the PC router and upgrade. i thought it was for airflow. my old craftsman has a dust port as well...but i hardly ever use it.


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## dwendt1978 (Mar 13, 2010)

I like this! Post some more pics when your done.


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## WWWorker (Jan 12, 2011)

I am in the process of building the same one. It was the only reason I purchased that issue. I got sidetracked restoring my fathers 1945ish Lionel Train for my sons. I am getting back at it starting tonight. Yours looks way better than mine thus far. 
My only change was I am using melamine for the top so it is a bit more slippery.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

wilbwworker said:


> I am in the process of building the same one. It was the only reason I purchased that issue. I got sidetracked restoring my fathers 1845ish Lionel Train for my sons. I am getting back at it starting tonight. Yours looks way better than mine thus far.
> My only change was I am using melamine for the top so it is a bit more slippery.


Forgive the off topic question, but is there any chance you'd post some pics of the restoration of that train? That's something I'd love to see! :thumbsup:


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## WWWorker (Jan 12, 2011)

Sure, I would be happy to. I will post it in another thread so I don't hijack this one. Needless to say it has been a journey. I will do it tonight or tomorrow (I am working late tonight).


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## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

*great setup!*



wilbwworker said:


> I am in the process of building the same one. It was the only reason I purchased that issue. I got sidetracked restoring my fathers 1945ish Lionel Train for my sons. I am getting back at it starting tonight. Yours looks way better than mine thus far.
> My only change was I am using melamine for the top so it is a bit more slippery.


a bit more slippery huh? haha! my two changes from the plans were: the rails on my TS were thinner and different, and i moved the place where the router plate goes a little further in so theres maybe 18 inches of support when i raise panels. 

yes this thing is an excellent design. i routed maybe 30 feet of maple and had almost NO DUST! just a small puff at the end of each cut. it is nothing at all like my last router table which i will be stripping for all the parts.

2 big fence problems though, probably unavoidable though:

one, like someone said above, its hard to use the TS and the router alternatively, OR reset the router fence to zero if you need to do several passes.

bee, it depends how the TS fence is on your rig but, there is no safe way to move the sacrificial router fence over the bit to make a zero tolerance-insert for the favorite bits. this is because the router fence clamps to the TS fence.


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## FiveOneSix (Sep 26, 2009)

cuneiform said:


> bee, it depends how the TS fence is on your rig but, there is no safe way to move the sacrificial router fence over the bit to make a zero tolerance-insert for the favorite bits. this is because the router fence clamps to the TS fence.


i could be wrong but isnt that what that enclosed middle part is for?


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## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

FiveOneSix said:


> i could be wrong but isnt that what that enclosed middle part is for?


my TS fence is a little sloppy unless its locked down. there is no way that i can think of to turn the router on and slide the sacrificial router fence over the bit without massive eye danger. visualize grabbing both ends of the TS fence which the router fence is clamped to, and trying to run the router fence through the bit. not good at all. some peoples' TS fences can be locked down and moved (i think), like micro-adjustment knobs. That would be ideal. Lock it down and slowly roll it over the bit.

For now, i trace an outline of the router bit on the router fence and cut it out by hand. End-tear-out is the biggest worry anyway, so I just backup the cut with scrap. No problem there.

SAFETY FIRST: PLEASE don't slide anything over a router that is not "anchored" to the table in some way, whether by feather boards or a starting pin for curves.


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## flatpicker9972 (Apr 12, 2011)

*route table*

Very Nice! Thanks for sharing.:thumbsup:


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Did you ever finish this? If so, how do you like it? Thanks in advance.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I got tired of loosing my router setup, just to make a single rip cut.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Pirate said:


> I got tired of loosing my router setup, just to make a single rip cut.


Can you expand on that a little more? Are you referring to the whole single vs dual fence dilemma? I have two fences, so that alone wouldn't be enough of a deterrent from building this.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Taylormade said:


> Can you expand on that a little more? Are you referring to the whole single vs dual fence dilemma? I have two fences, so that alone wouldn't be enough of a deterrent from building this.


I first used a router fence attached to my ts fence. Then if I needed to rip a piece, I had to loose the router setup.
A couple of t tracks and a stand alone fence solved that problem.


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