# Please recommend a mortise gauge



## Purrmaster (Jul 19, 2012)

If you've seen my review of the Lee Valley dual cutting/mortise gauge you'll know I'm in the market for a good mortise gauge.

I was hoping the folks here, who are much more expert than I am, could recommend one.

I can't afford something like the Tite Mark (basically, $100 is the max I can spend on the gauge). And I need it to be able to do mortise marking, not just a single line.

I'd prefer something with knives as I don't much like the pin types but whatever works, works. I've been leaning towards the Veritas "dual marking gauge".

Many thanks.


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

I would suggest the lee valley single cutter over the dual cutter. While I have the tite mark I find no added value. What is important is the flat head for sharpening and layout as well as the recessed holder for protection.


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## Purrmaster (Jul 19, 2012)

But for laying out mortises and tenons I need a dual gauge, do I not? That, at least, is what every book I've read has told me.

Thank you.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I find I use a single wheel marking gauge the most for random odd marking. When it comes to M&T joints I do prefer a double wheel or double pin. I have not tried a double knife yet (the single knives work fine though).

Long and the short though, a double wheel is your best best. Most can be used as a single wheel - certainly look for that option.

You can use a single marking gauge to layout M&T if they are centered in the work but it gets to be a bit much if you have to continually adjust the gauge. The biggest advantage for me is that hand prepped lumber often has some variation in thickness. By always working from the face side with a double pin or wheel you'll always have great markings. 

Also I find wheels work better than pins and knives. They cut easily and tend to track better and be affected by grain less.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I am having a problem understanding the basic need here. Why is a "gauge" needed to make mortise and tennon joints?

When I have used this joint I have simply used a try square and drawn the lines of the mortise on the wood. Is not that all we are trying to accomplish?

Or am I missing something?

George


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> Or am I missing something?
> 
> George


:yes:


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

firemedic said:


> :yes:


+1 :laughing:

I have the Veritas dual wheel marking gauge with the rod locking addition. It's an awesome gauge and is actually the best of both worlds since you can just recess one cutter and now you have a single arm gauge. The add-on lock for the arms is a really great addition too, it is really nice to be able to lock the measurement in and move the depth around without affecting your mortise or tenon measurement. 

I also have a Dual knife mortise gauge from japanwoodworker that is ok, but it sits now that I have had the Veritas.


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## Purrmaster (Jul 19, 2012)

My understanding from the books I've read is that I need a mortise gauge to lay out the marks for the mortises and tenons. The idea being that you set the gauge, lock it down, and then use it to make sure all the pieces are marked identically. 

I'm trying to use needle files to file a knife type point into the pins on my Harbor Freight mortise gauge. If I wreck it, no big loss.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*This one?*

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2083669/35780/Veritas-Dual-Marking-Gauge.aspx

It looks like a real time saver and accuracy would be increased as well. For those who are using machined mortises I don't think it would help that much, but it couldn't hurt either. :blink: bill


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I got a wood marking gauge for Christmas a few years ago. One of the things I didn't have and thought I needed.
A short time after that I found an old Stanley #95 butt gauge at a yard sale for a few bucks. It's for marking for butt hinges. 
I use it as a marking gauge, and it is much easier to use than the std. wood one. It just fits my hand good.
You can set 2 cutters to different sizes, to mark 2 sides of a mortise.
If can also be used to mark from an inside edge.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Purrmaster said:


> My understanding from the books I've read is that I need a mortise gauge to lay out the marks for the mortises and tenons. The idea being that you set the gauge, lock it down, and then use it to make sure all the pieces are marked identically.
> 
> I'm trying to use needle files to file a knife type point into the pins on my Harbor Freight mortise gauge. If I wreck it, no big loss.


Any update on how the HF mortise gauge is working out? How about some pics of the modifications you've been working on.


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## Purrmaster (Jul 19, 2012)

No, not that one. Though when I invest in another mortise gauge that will probably be the one.

I haven't done much with the HF gauge yet. I should get back to it.


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