# DIY Mobile Base or Store Bought?



## GreyhoundGuy (Mar 18, 2017)

I've got a Grizzly TSC 10 table saw like this one:










It's going to be part of my woodshop... which is also our garage. I need the majority of my tools and benches to be mobile. For the benches, I can easily use heavy duty castors from HD. But for the table saw and jointer, I either need to build bases OR purchase something that will allow it to roll on a not-glass-smooth garage floor.

What say you, WWT folks... DIY or BUY?

For DIY, I've found a few examples through Google searches, but nothing really specific in terms of plans. I was wondering if any of y'all had any ideas you could share. 

Or if you have a table saw base you love, I'd love to see that, too.

I took a couple personal days off for this weekend, so I'll have some extra hours. I'd love to knock this project off my to-do list.

Thanks in advance, all!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Can you weld?*

If you can weld, here's a simple but very stout mobile base I made:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/mother-table-saw-mobile-bases-v-2-a-11756/
 





Other nice bases here;
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/show-us-your-shop-made-mobile-bases-90458/ 

See post no. 12 for another one I made.


https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/roller-stand-12-tablesaw-11044/






The best store bought ones I have:
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-all-terrain-mobile-base-holds-up-to-800-lbs?avad=55963_c1539f959


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## JIMMIEM (Oct 12, 2014)

I just bought one from Harbor Freight for around $30. It will support up to 300 lbs. You need to add your own wood rails. I installed my floor standing drill press on it. I've got a couple of sets of plans from magazine articles...SHOPNOTES and WOOD. I can give you the magazine editions. If it's allowable, I can scan and email the magazine plans to you. I had bought a stand for my table saw several years ago for a lot more $ than the HF but it came with metal rails.


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## justdraftn (Feb 20, 2019)

Personally, I always go w/home made.
This is what I built for my band saw.
Works very well.









flip top cabinet for SS and planer








rolling bench for sanders


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I would get a mobile base that sits squarely on four feet when in the stationary setting. You don’t want that thing moving even a little bit while you’re sawing. 

I have a couple like this under my tools. 

https://www.amazon.com/50-278-Mobil...0000223CF/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


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## CharleyL (Jan 13, 2019)

At the time that I decided that I needed a mobile base for my 52" Unisaw, HTC was having a sale of odd sized bases that weren't selling any longer. The prices were about 1/4 - 1/2 of the original list prices. I looked through the list and picked one that looked close, knowing that I would have to modify it. When it came, I cut the 1 X 2 square frame in several pieces and added pieces of the same square tubing to make it the right size. Of course, owning welding and metal working equipment helps with a project like this. I welded the frame back together in it's new size and configuration, then painted it with a rattle can of grey metallic paint that matched the original that I bought at Lowes, and My Unisaw now sits on an HTC base that perfectly fits it. I ground the new welds flat before painting, so there is no evidence of the frame being cut and extended. For about 2 hours work I saved considerable money, and had fun at the same time. My Unisaw has been on this base for about 8 years now.

Charley


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You can bolt castors to your table saw just as you did for the benches. Maybe not in the same manner. but it should not be hard. I have done it for my Craftsman saw. I put castors on one end and then picked up the other end to move it.



George


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## MLP (Nov 25, 2010)

I just made one for my Grizzly G0715P. I did not want to have the usual 2 swivel/2 rigid arrangement, because it still was very hard to move. So I built a box of 3/4" ply and bought the Rockler Workbench Casters, and it worked out great. I moves everywhere easily, and the casters lower the box right to the floor so it stays in position.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

I made one like justdraftn's table for the disk sanders. I used plain ol' 2x4s from Lowe's and a piece of laminate countertop. I get the countertop pieces at the local cabinet shop. The owner says they collect a stack and throw them in the dumpster. As an aside, I have made a lathe stand, cutoff saw stand, drill press/bandsaw table, router/planer table from the pieces.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Most of the purchased models are very low to the ground and add little to no height. The DIY ones can add several inches depending on the plan, wood used and caster size. Consider that whichever way you go.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

I buy the manufactured ones when they go on sale and basically use them for parts, many of them are pretty flimsy for a heavy tools but if you have a welder you can beef them up. 

I like them because they don't raise the machine height that much, being 5' 7" that is important, 6' 3" then maybe not.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

JIMMIEM said:


> I just bought one from Harbor Freight for around $30. It will support up to 300 lbs. You need to add your own wood rails. I installed my floor standing drill press on it. I've got a couple of sets of plans from magazine articles...SHOPNOTES and WOOD. I can give you the magazine editions. If it's allowable, I can scan and email the magazine plans to you. I had bought a stand for my table saw several years ago for a lot more $ than the HF but it came with metal rails.



I did the HF kit too, but used metal rails. Worked out well.


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## rennenbay88 (Aug 14, 2018)

I am subscribed to Matthias on youtube, he comes up with clever solutions when a problem arises. One of which may be perfect for your situation. 






hes been a huge inspiration to me, truly amazing watching him work.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

if you have uneven floors, opt for the larger wheels, probably 2" min. 


have a delta under my bandsaw, as it came with. I like it, hard to beat. I think kit wise, you would only be saving the wood/stretcher part of the deal, but have enormous custom capability.


let us see your final decision...


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Built mine, worked out well.
Pics: 
1) saw as received 
2) Basic construction 
3)Semi-finished (still haven't added the bottom drawers) 
4)top drawer is sawdust catcher 
5) first project with new saw


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Thanks Greyhound for starting this thread. I was going to on the same subject, but never got around to it. Lot of good ideas presented. I currently have my contractor saw on locking swivel castors in the back and regular castors in the front. All mounted to a sheet of plywood, much like some of the examples above. Then the legs of the TS are merely bolted to plywood.


Anyway, the problem is the floor is so unleveled in places that all the rollers don't make contact well. So there's a wobble sometimes. I don't mind the increase in height, but I would like to make a mobile base like on my 15" Planer. It has two rollers (wide) in the back and a wheel, with a foot plate to raise it off the wheel, in the front. Any ideas where to get one of those. I have tons of uni-strut so all I would have to buy is the angle plates and wheels. I have plenty of 1/2" bolts and spring nuts for the job. If I knew what rod and conditions to use on that mild of steel I would try to weld it. I inherited my Dad's Lincoln 220 AC welder, but every time he tried to weld the strut for me, it would burn through. And I believe he went down to 60A setting where it would stick sometimes. So I'll probably just bolt it together.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

djg said:


> Thanks Greyhound for starting this thread. I was going to on the same subject, but never got around to it. Lot of good ideas presented. I currently have my contractor saw on locking swivel castors in the back and regular castors in the front. All mounted to a sheet of plywood, much like some of the examples above. Then the legs of the TS are merely bolted to plywood.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the problem is the floor is so unleveled in places that all the rollers don't make contact well. So there's a wobble sometimes. I don't mind the increase in height, but I would like to make a mobile base like on my 15" Planer. It has two rollers (wide) in the back and a wheel, with a foot plate to raise it off the wheel, in the front. Any ideas where to get one of those. I have tons of uni-strut so all I would have to buy is the angle plates and wheels. I have plenty of 1/2" bolts and spring nuts for the job. If I knew what rod and conditions to use on that mild of steel I would try to weld it. I inherited my Dad's Lincoln 220 AC welder, but every time he tried to weld the strut for me, it would burn through. And I believe he went down to 60A setting where it would stick sometimes. So I'll probably just bolt it together.


6013 rod, 75-90 amps AC should work for mild steel of that thickness.


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## GreyhoundGuy (Mar 18, 2017)

I read all of your posts, and wanted to say thank you to all for your suggestions. As a beginning woodworker, I'm worried about trying to create something that takes me too far out of my comfort zone... but I'm definitely willing to try.

I thought about buying a kit from HF, but to be honest, the wheels are what I think would be the problem for me. My garage floor isn't great ... not terrible, but just not the smoothest of surfaces.

I've decided to build my own base out of 3/4" plywood (two layers thick for strength) and use heavy duty casters from Home Depot. They're 3" wheels, and the total height is 4" for the unit. (I have the 4" wheel versions on my workbench and a cabinet that is a catchall storage area. They work great, and their brakes are STRONG!)

Add in the two thicknesses of 3/4" plywood, and I'm looking at a height gain of 5.5 inches. It's definitely going to be taller than I'm used to, but I'm 6' 1", so I should be okay. If it feels too high, I'll see if I can modify it somehow, but I really do think I'll be alright.

I'll try to take some pictures as I go and post here later... or at least a picture when I'm done.

Thanks again to all for your ideas!

-Joel


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## GreyhoundGuy (Mar 18, 2017)

UPDATE

I built a base for the table saw. It's two thicknesses of 3/4 plywood (for extra strength due to the weight), and the casters are placed so that one of the caster mounting holes goes into the foot hole on the table saw.

Everything went together perfect. After moving everything around a bit, I realized ..... I really don't like it.

It's very top heavy, and the center of gravity has now been thrown off. If I try to rock it from front to back (mimicking pushing wood through the blade), it's fine. But when rocking it gently from side to side, it feels as if it could go over to the right side. I know it's not actually close to tipping without exerting quite a bit of force, but it's uncomfortable enough for me to say to do to a redesign... especially with a three year old daughter that likes to hang out in the shop with me.

So I have a NEW plan that should be better. This new design will give me a wider footprint so that there's less of a tippy feeling, and it'll only be 1" off the ground... even when using 3" casters.

Stay tuned. I'm hoping to get the new design built up this weekend. (I'll probably end up making a new thread if it works.)

-Joel


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## unburled (Mar 10, 2019)

For what it is worth, my (much) preferred height for a table saw is 33", which is 1" above my palm height with relaxed shoulders. So I end up taking saws off their stands or lower cabinets. I think palm height is better for comparisons than overall height.


https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/ideal-height-tablesaw-tabletop-floor-123394/


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's about the right casters ....*



GreyhoundGuy said:


> UPDATE
> 
> I built a base for the table saw. It's two thicknesses of 3/4 plywood (for extra strength due to the weight), and the casters are placed so that one of the caster mounting holes goes into the foot hole on the table saw.
> 
> ...



You need side mount casters rather than undermount. This puts the weight or center of gravity lower to avoid tipping. Then you need to fasten the saw cabinet to the base so it becomes a single unit. Now it won't tip over on the base itself, a different issue. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERTEC-1...-Kit-Pack-of-4-/253836034378?oid=253738510072


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Quickstep said:


> I would get a mobile base that sits squarely on four feet when in the stationary setting. You don’t want that thing moving even a little bit while you’re sawing.
> 
> I have a couple like this under my tools.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/50-278-Mobil...0000223CF/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8





MLP said:


> I just made one for my Grizzly G0715P. I did not want to have the usual 2 swivel/2 rigid arrangement, because it still was very hard to move. So I built a box of 3/4" ply and bought the Rockler Workbench Casters, and it worked out great. I moves everywhere easily, and the casters lower the box right to the floor so it stays in position.





GreyhoundGuy said:


> UPDATE
> 
> I built a base for the table saw. It's two thicknesses of 3/4 plywood (for extra strength due to the weight), and the casters are placed so that one of the caster mounting holes goes into the foot hole on the table saw.
> 
> ...





woodnthings said:


> You need side mount casters rather than undermount. This puts the weight or center of gravity lower to avoid tipping. Then you need to fasten the saw cabinet to the base so it becomes a single unit. Now it won't tip over on the base itself, a different issue.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERTEC-1...-Kit-Pack-of-4-/253836034378?oid=253738510072


I agree with most of the above. I have both commercial and home-built rolling stands for various tools. Here is my advice:

* Make sure the table saw sits flat on the ground when the wheels are disengaged. The table saw should be supported by the wheels _only_ when it is being moved. You can buy commercial bases that work like that, or build your own (consider using the Rockler workbench casters that mount on the sides). 

* Make sure the table saw is well balanced always. That includes raising, lowering, rolling, and when in operation. Some designs have a single integral foot pedal to press. Others have separate lifts for each wheel, which is "tippy". Heavy weight and "tippy" are not very compatible. In case you hadn't noticed, table saws weigh a lot. 

GREAT HINT ABOUT ROCKLER WORKBENCH CASTERS: I saw a great hint about those Rockler workbench casters in a magazine. The person drilled a hole in the top "paddle" of each caster, then bolted a board across the tops of the "paddles" to make a step plate for each side. The step plate operates both casters at the same time to reduce the tippiness.

* If you use those Rockler workbench casters, pay attention to the screws that come with it. They are long and have fine threads. They are strong and perfect for the job, but brittle. Be sure you pre-drill the holes for them accurately. The holes should be square and the correct size. I tend to make my pre-drill holes too tight, 'cause I _wrongly_ think that the screw threads will cut harder into the wood and grab better. If you do that with these screws, you could break them while tightening. DAMHIK. Use candle wax or some other lubricant on the threads. If the screws start to get too snug as you tighten them, stop and think before you snap off the screw. 

* Any motion during operation is bad for a power tool, especially a table saw. See my first point, above. But ... if you absolutely must have the table saw resting on the casters during operation, consider getting "total lock" casters. Most caster locks only prevent the wheel from turning, but they don't stop the caster from swiveling. The total lock casters lock both the wheel and the swivel. The only place I have found to buy the total lock casters is Rockler.

Bottom line: 
A rock solid, totally stable, "boat anchor" table saw is dangerous enough. Adding a mobile base should not increase that danger. Make sure that your table saw is as equally "rock solid" on the base as it was before.


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## GreyhoundGuy (Mar 18, 2017)

Thanks to everyone for the great replies and advice! Also, @Tool Agnostic, you offered up some great advice and ideas. This one definitely got me thinking:



Tool Agnostic said:


> A rock solid, totally stable, "boat anchor" table saw is dangerous enough. Adding a mobile base should not increase that danger. Make sure that your table saw is as equally "rock solid" on the base as it was before.


Right now, I'm hoping to stay with the casters that I already have because I've had them for a while and would prefer to use the supplies that I already have ... but the idea of them swiveling when I want them to stay still was definitely a concern. I took a look last night, and they are true lock casters, so they look from spinning and rotating.

I'm going to go grab some lag screws today, as well as a couple 4x4 posts, and see what I can come up with. I've got the basics sketched out, and I think the process should go easily enough. I'll post with some "during" pics, as well as an after picture / video to show how it turned out.

Thanks again to all!

-Joel


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