# The real price of a NEW BLADE !!



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

This is the real cost of NOT changing the dull blade ( 1/2" gap). I started cutting a large walnut crotch thinking I get a few more feet from the dulling blade BUT COST ME LOTS OF MONEY in the end!!! I made several passes before looking @ slabs, it was worse on the start of a cut in the center than edges but would level out 1/2 way through. I possibly have something also out of line, it will slightly ride up at start of cut even with new blade just not this bad. I keep blade tension frequently checked. I theorize the blade may not be 100% parallel with deck ( checking tommorow).

I appreciate any input and thanks in advance.

Have a Blessed day In Jesus,
Tim


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Looks like your tooth set is history. What pitch blade are you using?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

9 or 10 degree I think. This crotch has been cut and sealed for 1- 1 1/2 yrs and I've noticed woodmizer and others usually reccomend a lesser pitch on the drier harder stuff. I'm cutting a mixture of green sometimes and drier others. 

This was a woodmizer blade that had been resharpened and set by other outsource. I've tested/used and was very satisfied with Sterling hardback blade, They seamed to be faster and true-er cutting. Still in the learning curve ( alot to absorb) and wanting to get the most use (resharpenings) prior to buying all new again.

This warp is almost a cup shape then all flattens out fairly true the rest of log.

The reason I suspect blade not parallel is one side of the board always has more sawdust packed hard against it and this I assume could be the set as you mentioned.

I'll install brand new blade today and check all settings. May have been resharpened/set wrong.

Thanks and have a Blessed day in Jesus,
Tim


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