# Stairs



## wgg1848 (Mar 13, 2009)

I need to build out the side of some stairs that lead up to our loft, which I am boarding out.
I have put pannelling on the wall in the loft, which has resulted in the wall being flush with the side of the staircase.
In order to make it look 'right' when I put some skirting on the bottom of the wall I need to build out the side panel of the stairs about 18ml.
What options can you suggest in order that I can make a template to cut the shape of the riser and the going of the stairs?
The stairs have about 10 steps on them


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

The only thing I can think of doing is using a profile copier thingy(can't think of the name....plenty of pins, push into a moulding, pins stay in place, trace on a board) it looks like a comb. Use that to start, copy it onto some rigid card. Cut and play with the card until you have it correct. Copy that onto a piece of 1/8" hardboard. Cut that out. Use that template, with a flush trim router bit, to cut the final piece.
Are you painting this piece?
Maybe someone else can explain it better or has a better plan .......

Rick


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

"What options can you suggest in order that I can make a template to cut the shape of ....."
I like to make templates with the build up-tape together method starting with the longest dimesion first. Pick one of the steps as an "example". Cut 3" -4" strips using shirt backer thickness, fitting the strips snuggly around the stair profile. After you complete one stair profile, check it on the others to see if that termplate will accomodate the rest of the steps. Make a large layout on a scrap of 1/4" ply or masonite, trace each profile and accomodate the differences.This then becomes your master template. Make it in 2 sections since you have 10 steps. String a line or a straight edge from the nose of the top step to the bottom step nose to see if they are in a straight line. This becomes your "reference" line. Measure down from each nose intersection to the tread. Record the dimension and then use your cardboard template to locate and then trace each profile. This all takes time, not work, so measure 2x. You are going to need 2 finished pieces anyway because of the length of the run, assuming it's more than 8 feet. I don't know what you are using as a "finished' product, 3/4" , since 18mm = 3/4" (<). good luck, bill


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

I think you are asking how to notch skirt board without a gap. Cut you skirt rips. I use 10.5"; Notch out the nose of the treads the thickness of the skirt so the skit boards will sit flush with the corner of the tread. Use your level to level up with the nose if the riser. Then level accost the top of the tread, just walk up the stairs up, level, up level. Grab your jigsaw/skill saw, what have you and get to it. Drop it in and adjust/ scribe as necessary.


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

You can save yourself a lot of scribing and adjusting by adding a couple steps to your original plumb (riser) and tread lines.

After you notch out the nosings, run a skinny straight edge up the riser below and mark where the outside corner on the tread itself is accurately on top of the tread where you can see it easily when the skirt is slipped into the notch. 

That will also insure that the top of the chiseled out section of tread is in line with the face of the riser beneath. It's a good idea to jam something under the tread when chiseling the notch out so you don't split out into the tread where the skirt won't bury it.

Slide in your skirt board as Scribbles said and plumb up from your mark at least an inch farther than your tallest rise and make a light line on the skirt.

Cut a square chunk of MDF, or plywood a quarter taller than the height of your tallest rise and at least as wide as your widest tread. Set it on the tread and draw a line on your skirt along the top edge, then extend the line so it goes over the bullnose beyond the line of the riser beneath it. Do this all the way up the stairs. This is actual cut line #1.

Put an "x" where it intersects your plumb line drawn earlier from the face of the riser beneath.

Now for the thinking part. Let's say your skirt is on the right side looking up the stairs. Your notched ply or MDF will have the notch on the left side as you hold it in place.

Take another straight stick at least twice as long plus a quarter as your tallest rise and about 3 inches wide and cut a notch so the tread bullnose will fit into it.

Hold it flush to the riser and you will see it continues in that riser line above the tread. Scribe a line off of it and onto the skirt.

It's a good idea to hack an angle on the bottom of the stick back about a half inch from where it sits in the corner formed by the tread and riser - in case some of the treads go uphill.

Now, you will have two riser lines on your skirt. The first one was where you plumbed up with the level. The second one is the angled one (assuming the risers are not perfectly plum.)

Now you need to draw the actual cut line. 

All you do is put a straight edge on the "x" you marked in paragraph 5 above, and draw a line from the "x" to the bottom of the skirt PARALLEL to the angled one you last drew. This is actual cut line #2.

This may sound complicated, but is actually very simple once you under stand what I'm talking about. 

The advantage is huge over scribing and adjusting because you have plenty of stock on both sides of your blade when cutting. And you may well find you are all done, except for the nails, the first time you drop it into place.

Experienced carpenters can even sketch in curves as they are marking tread and risers if they have cups in them, before they ever start cutting.

Please re-read this post 4 times before asking for a bunch of clarification. 

Especially you, Webster. You might have read it before I got it all straightened out because I see you are online.

Good luck,
Jim


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Jim aka clampman!*

Jim, I know you make videos!:thumbsup: This is certainly worthy of one, since a picture is worth a thousand paragraphs, even if I never need to do this, but I'm gonna some day soon. bill :yes:


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## wgg1848 (Mar 13, 2009)

Many thanks for all your advice, being in the UK our terminolgy sometimes confuses the issues but the guidelines you have outlined have been very helpfull. This project started on New Years Day and we have amongst other things carried up two flights of stairs 38 sheets of 8ft x 4ft, 9mm MDF, 15 sheets of 18ml MDF, sheets of 1nch insulation and numerous lengths of 2x1 battening. Being retired its proved a very rewarding project. Next time her indoors comes up with another idea I might be on a 'plane' to the States!!!
Again, many thanks guys


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