# substitute for mortise and tennon?



## chadhasprojects (Mar 21, 2008)

Hello,

I am going to be building a table soon, and I am concerned about how I am going to join the table legs to the supports (pieces in contact with the floor, sorry can't think of the term). I would rather not have to screw it and have to putty or plug the hole left over. I don't have the equipment to do a mortise and tennon joint and I don't get the impression that a biscuit joint would be sufficient either (or maybe it would be good?).

The t-joint I'm referring to could be seen in the example link. Note the supports I am going to use are much thicker, making it more difficult to screw in the leg from the bottom (thus leaving the screws hidden).

Thanks for the help!


http://www.paintedpony.us/images/Copy of edited trestle table.jpg


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

How about dowels? They will supply you with a nice tight joint.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Rob said:


> How about dowels? They will supply you with a nice tight joint.



I vote for dowels also. They could be any diameter, and your corresponding holes can be made with a forstner bit. You can buy common dowel in diameters up to 1 1/4" using a wood closet rod. HD sells smaller diameter dowel rod in 36" lengths in diameters up to 1", IIRC. Some stores carry common wood closet rod up to 1 1/2". This would be in the same thinking as a "loose tenon".












 





 






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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

I second dowels pins. My dinning room table is made of 2x10s with 4x4 turned legs, and it is all pegged together with 1/2 dowel pegs. It's now about 15 years old and still solid as a rock.


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## chadhasprojects (Mar 21, 2008)

*more questions*

ok, so a forstner bit is the way to go? To further complicate things, I don't have a drill press. I can get one, but I'm thinking about drilling the holes in the leg itself. How do you drill a hole into the leg and make sure it is aligned correctly. I can't picture using the drillpress for because the leg is so long.

Sorry, I am new to this obviously - I just can't think of things that are probably obvious to you all.

Thanks again!


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

I would probably clamp the foot next to the leg where I wanted it lined up...take a combination square and draw my lines across both pieces, then use the square again to mark center on both mating surfaces. Personally, I think a new (and cheaper) auger(edit: should have said spade bit) bit with an electric hand drill will give you a precise enough hole. Keep the drill vertical and steady (use your combination square as a guide)
Make some indentations on your dowels with a pair of pliers so glue will have some places to collect. Taper your dowels on both ends before inserting into the holes. Lather the dowels and the holes with a good wood glue. Clamps things up or put some weight on the legs to keep the joint tight for a few hours and....you're done.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Rob said:


> I would probably clamp the foot next to the leg where I wanted it lined up...take a combination square and draw my lines across both pieces, then use the square again to mark center on both mating surfaces. Personally, I think a new (and cheaper) auger bit with an electric hand drill will give you a precise enough hole. Keep the drill vertical and steady (use your combination square as a guide)
> Make some indentations on your dowels with a pair of pliers so glue will have some places to collect. Taper your dowels on both ends before inserting into the holes. Lather the dowels and the holes with a good wood glue. Clamps things up or put some weight on the legs to keep the joint tight for a few hours and....you're done.



Some of the auger bits work much better in a brace. If the hole is larger that an available bit, use an adjustable expansive bit:
.








.
A trick I used on treating smooth dowels is to use a large slip joint pliers, like a Channel Lock. Place the dowel in the teeth, squeeze tightly, and pound it through to create longitudinal grooves. Start with the dowel slightly long, as pounding it through with a hammer will peen the end. Both ends should be round and slightly chamfered. It should be just short enough to not bottom out (longer than the hole is deep). A very tight fitting dowel, may not let the glue or air out as it gets inserted. I've had them push back out.


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## chadhasprojects (Mar 21, 2008)

*Thanks*

Thanks so much for the help! I feel a lot more confident now, and happy that I don't have to purchase a ton of equipment. 

Thanks again. I'm sure I'll be back for more advice when things get underway.


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

Chaphasprojects You can drill your holds with a hand drill and any common wood bit. You can use a tri-square as a guide to keep the drill going straight. I know this works because my dinning room table was drilled my hand. Now I have a drill press, but back then I did it all by hand.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Drill straight through the bottom piece.*

Drilling a hole by hand for a dowel in 2 separate pieces and hoping they line up is a bit much for a newbe. Its not just hole placement, its also an angle thing.
I would temporarily screw the bottom piece 9Foot) into the leg from the bottom. Then I would drill my dowel holes a few inches away. The dowel holes would go through the foot and directly into the leg. Then you are assured of perfect line-up.
When you are done glueing, you can remove the screws and re-drill the screw holes for more dowels. 
I know you dont want to plug any holes with filler, but what does it matter. No one will see these holes because the holes are facing the floor.


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