# Table on the Cheap - Should I go to a mill?



## Sirnanigans (Apr 3, 2014)

I plan to build a large table for card and table-top games. I have been exploring various options to get a feel for price per style/quality. I've budgeted some torsion box and plywood designs, but I want to get an idea of the price for a solid hardwood design.

Obviously "on the cheap" isn't a phrase associated with such an idea as a solid hardwood table, but I approach "cheap" with respect to the quality of the product. If I can get a table worth 10 tiems as much on quality, appearance, and longevity, then I will glady spend twice as much - that's cheaper with respect to what my money can afford. _Anyway, on to the question at hand..._

*What kind of bill can I expect from having a lumber mill cut down a 12' x 18" diameter log into about 16 planks at 6ft long and 1.5in thick?* That's about 12 cuts if I understand the process (spoiler: I don't). Looking for a real rough estimate here, obviously the price varies by a whole list of details.

Thanks for any input. Just trying to get the best bang for my buck while staying under $400 (maaaaaybe $500 depending on what it buys). I hope to hear that I can build a nice tuscan style hardwood table by hand for about $300. Would be a fun experience, too.

*Thanks again!*


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You have a major problem. A 12" log will not yield 8ea 1 1/2" thick boards. Do the math. 8 times 1 1/2 equals 12. The first 2 or 3 inches on each side of the log are not going to be of any use.

George


----------



## Sirnanigans (Apr 3, 2014)

GeorgeC said:


> You have a major problem. A 12" log will not yield 8ea 1 1/2" thick boards. Do the math. 8 times 1 1/2 equals 12. The first 2 or 3 inches on each side of the log are not going to be of any use.
> 
> George


You're absolutely right. I just skipped over that part of the process when I did the math, for some reason. I have an option of a wider log, so it's easy to just change it to a 16" or 18" diameter for my question. I'll edit that in, thanks for the catch.


----------



## Sirnanigans (Apr 3, 2014)

Here's a bonus question I just thought of:

If I am having walnut, hickory, or white oak cut, might a sawmill trade the work for a portion of the wood? 

I know the wood is valuable, but I don't know if they have any way to profit from it.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Are you willing to wait up to a year for the wood to dry after it is milled from logs? Just thinking about what you are asking.


----------



## Sirnanigans (Apr 3, 2014)

I am willing to wait about 6 months... I figured this would suffice. If not, I can have the wood finished on both sides and cut to 1". I don't think the table top needs to be over 1" thick. 

--I live near Chicago, so our weather here isn't likely to dry the wood out to satisfaction anyway, the boards will be stored indoors most likely.-- I take this back. Apparently our average humidity isn't that horrible, it just always seems that way.


----------



## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

Well I think that 6 months is rushing it. Rule of thumb is 1 yr per inch for drying time. Now if you can get it Kiln dried that is a different story. If you going to end out at 1 inch why not have it cut to 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 this will also help speed up the drying process. If your going to try to air dry make sure you sticker the wood to keep it flat and allow the air to flow all around the wood. Next question is do you seal the ends. This will slow the drying time, but will reduce checking etc.

To me if you are going to take on a project such as this you may not want to rush the project. 

Paul


----------



## jodasm (Oct 25, 2012)

Here in sw mi sawmills run from .40 cents up per bd ft might be worth the trip here to get it sawn for 40 cents


----------



## Sirnanigans (Apr 3, 2014)

Fastback said:


> Well I think that 6 months is rushing it. Rule of thumb is 1 yr per inch for drying time. Now if you can get it Kiln dried that is a different story. If you going to end out at 1 inch why not have it cut to 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 this will also help speed up the drying process. If your going to try to air dry make sure you sticker the wood to keep it flat and allow the air to flow all around the wood. Next question is do you seal the ends. This will slow the drying time, but will reduce checking etc.
> 
> To me if you are going to take on a project such as this you may not want to rush the project.
> 
> Paul


I haven't decided if I want to avoid checking. Part of me wants to make a classy table with clean contours and a fluid design. The other part of me wants to make a rustic, robust table that looks almost medieval. 

If I decide to go with the latter, checking is welcome for aesthetics, otherwise I have to seal the boards.


----------



## Sirnanigans (Apr 3, 2014)

jodasm1977 said:


> Here in sw mi sawmills run from .40 cents up per bd ft might be worth the trip here to get it sawn for 40 cents


I will look into it, but gas money is a real factor nowadays.


----------



## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

Many mills have kilns and will dry your wood for a fee----

Southern Michigan is a great place to buy directly from small mills---excellent prices and quality--

We have a mill owner from that area as a member---


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

How big will the table be?

I will be honest with you. I don't have the time or patience to wait 6 months - 1 year just to save a few bucks. I would lose interest and do something else. But that's just me.

Is that what you really want to do? If it were me, I would buy rough lumber from a lumber yard and get after it, even if it meant having to save up for a month or two.

Rustic huh? You might be able to find some big shipping pallets or crates and recycle the boards. A piece of 3/4 inch OSB would make a nice sub base for the top and you would only need to nail the boards on. Add a 1 1/2 inch edge all around and finish it to your desire. Just a thought. 

Good luck with your project.


----------



## Sirnanigans (Apr 3, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> How big will the table be?
> 
> I will be honest with you. I don't have the time or patience to wait 6 months - 1 year just to save a few bucks. I would lose interest and do something else. But that's just me.
> 
> ...


That's a good point. My alternative would be to make a torsion box table and put a micro suede surface on it for a modern gaming table. Ply wood is cheaper than buying stock hardwood by far and the table will be of the same level of quality, just as a completely different type of table.


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I don't see why you can't easily stay under your target price of $400-500.oo.
I buy semi dried slabs for kitchen tables for 1/4 of that. An example is a live edge table I did with black walnut slabs. 3 slabs 16" x 72" x 1.5" Each piece was $40.oo each, so there is a $120.oo top. 
The top was @ ~30% moisture and I kilned it down with a space heater and a tarp to 6-8%. Took me 4 days.
These slabs were incredibly decorative and "live edged" with bark on.

Since you are in the Chi-town area (my old stomping grounds) Try Milwaukee Woodworks. Allen is a good guy to deal with.
Transportation is not bad and pricing is well in your ballpark so you have money left over to finish the frame and legs.

www.milwaukeewoodworks.com

You can see the table(s) I made from the walnut on my site.
Check out the "for sale" section. There are 3 tables of walnut that all came from Allen.
www.gnarlywooddesigns.weebly.com


----------



## Sirnanigans (Apr 3, 2014)

Da Aardvark said:


> I don't see why you can't easily stay under your target price of $400-500.oo.
> I buy semi dried slabs for kitchen tables for 1/4 of that. An example is a live edge table I did with black walnut slabs. 3 slabs 16" x 72" x 1.5" Each piece was $40.oo each, so there is a $120.oo top.
> The top was @ ~30% moisture and I kilned it down with a space heater and a tarp to 6-8%. Took me 4 days.
> These slabs were incredibly decorative and "live edged" with bark on.
> ...


Well heck... I just assumed that the price of walnut or oak would be outrageous because of the board foot prices for planks from Rockler or other retailers.

I guess I was mistaken, and I will look into this option.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Prices can get confusing. At my local lumber yard, the same species of wood is available in different ways and priced accordingly. 4/4 x 5 1/2 inch wide rough lumber (I believe they say it has been skip planed so you can see the grain) is priced by the board foot (12x12 inches in random widths and lengths up to 10 inches). It is about 1 inch thick with rough sawn sides. It is also available as a six inch wide board that is smooth on both sides and one edge (S2S1E-surfaced two sides, one edge). Those boards are priced by the lineal foot. 

Look closely and ask questions. Always buy more than you need to account for waste.
Hope this helps.
Mike


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

You gotta get to the supplier.
Another example:
I needed siding for a farmhouse I'm restoring. Cedar lap siding is running over $2.50 a bd ft. I have a local sawmill and drove up to it and talked. Next thing I know, I'm buying 500 bd ft @ $.75c per. Considering the farmhouse is sided with poplar, perfect match.

Go direct. Cut out the middle man.


----------



## FishFactory (Nov 8, 2013)

jodasm1977 said:


> Here in sw mi sawmills run from .40 cents up per bd ft might be worth the trip here to get it sawn for 40 cents


Wow.....I just milled out 565 bf of white oak yesterday for .20 cents.......I may have to raise my rates. I'm thinking of keeping some of it.......really red and most of it is #1, the guy having it done is a friend of mine and tight on money so he would probably be good with that for no bill to saw it.

A lot of smaller mills will saw on shares so it is an option.


----------

