# Shelf thickness



## DeanF (Mar 29, 2010)

I'm building an oak bookcase with solid wood shelves. The shelves will be 36" wide and 13" deep. Any point in making the shelves 7/8" thick instead of 3/4"...or am I just adding weight to the bookcase?

Dean


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Are the shelves adjustable?
If yes
3/4" is minimum at 36"
7/8" will help to prevent sag
Sometimes an added shelf pin in the back will help but you will see the holes

If no
3/4" will work - they will just look small

Adding 1 1/4" nosing can help with strength and the looks

Tom


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## DeanF (Mar 29, 2010)

Thanks Tom,

I was going to dato them in, and add a downturn nose on the front.

But...Now I'm having second thoughts. Attached is an image of the bookcase design. Would it look bad to have those metal adjustable shelf supports down the sides? 

I dunno. I have never attempted a project like this before.

Also...how is the faceplate normally attached on the front? Glue?

Dean


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## 47_47 (Feb 8, 2010)

You've been already given good advice, but I use:
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm


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## DeanF (Mar 29, 2010)

Mike,

Thanks for the link. Pretty cool. I know the advice I have been given is sound, and I always appreciate it. 

I guess I'm just looking for personal opinions of whether or not those shelf supports are appealing or not to people...when applied to this (older) style bookcase.

Dean


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

DeanF said:


> Mike,
> 
> Thanks for the link. Pretty cool. I know the advice I have been given is sound, and I always appreciate it.
> 
> ...


I prefer pins and holes. Easy enough with a piece of peg board for spacing, a 1/4" drill and stop collar. Or, make a dedicated plywood jig for a plunge router and collar. Use a 1/4" plunge or spiral bit.
3/4" thick solid with a 1 1/4 edging will be plenty strong. If you want, you could run another 1 1/8 edge under the back of the shelf. But, that's overkill IMO.
Build your side panels and apply the face frame with glue. Could use pocket screws from the frames to the case sides but it's not necessary if you can spare the clamps till the glue sets up.
Dado the sides and underside of the top for the back panel.
Gene


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

DeanF said:


> Thanks Tom,
> 
> I was going to dato them in, and add a downturn nose on the front.
> 
> ...


I use the metal shelf standards like you've shown. Some customers like them. I usually dado them into the sides about 1/8" to recess them a little bit. My preference is these over shelf pins. It's a personal preference, after all you are the one who has to look at them.


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## shilohill (Mar 16, 2010)

Use 3/4 in. plenty strong, and pins,looks much nicer.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

DeanF said:


> Mike,
> 
> Thanks for the link. Pretty cool. I know the advice I have been given is sound, and I always appreciate it.
> 
> ...


Hi Dean - long as your asking for opinions, I'm always happy to oblige :smile:
I think the standards look OK but on a style like that should be dadoed pretty much flush with the walls of the case. The pin holes are less obtrusive on the design. Also with pins you can set the router table up to mill in reliefs to hide the pins themselves.
JMHO, probably worth what it cost :yes:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Your sketch up shows panels*

If this is the look you are after then the adjustable brackets won't work with this type of construction. The cross rails will be proud of the panels inside and they will have gaps behind them if you use the adjustable metal brackets. It will look weird. You don't want to dado them in either. Just keep it simple and dado the shelves into the cross rails...it will be stronger and look great. Another reason not to make them adjustable is they won't line up nicely on the cross rails...they'll be all scattered around height wise on the inside....weird. If the side panels are solid wood then the metal brackets would be fine as shown in the picture above, but not with this construction:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> If this is the look you are after then the adjustable brackets won't work with this type of construction. The cross rails will be proud of the panels inside and they will have gaps behind them if you use the adjustable metal brackets. It will look weird. You don't want to dado them in either. Just keep it simple and dado the shelves into the cross rails...it will be stronger and look great. Another reason not to make them adjustable is they won't line up nicely on the cross rails...they'll be all scattered around height wise on the inside....weird. If the side panels are solid wood then the metal brackets would be fine as shown in the picture above, but not with this construction:



I agree with this scenario with relation to this specific design. The standards to me look too commercial by introducing the metallic look on the inside. This design is more traditional and visually benefits from a lack of distraction. Just use glue and clamps for installing the face frame. I would NOT use pocket screws.

You may get by with 3/4" for the shelves especially if the front is edge banded, and the back of the shelves are tacked through the back which would keep them straight.

When considering the sag potential, consider what and where the weight will be on a shelf. You could put considerable weight spread along the shelf and if it's dispersed, would not be subjective to sag as it would if the same weight was in the middle.


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