# workbench top ideas



## Seawalker (Jul 18, 2012)

Hello all. I'm putting together a workshop and am still agreen woodworker. 

I had the idea that I would save money and build one of those Gladiator workbenches. I welded up the steel legs and frame. Just as a general purpose bench to go along the wall. 

But when it came time to look at laminating a top I was not prepared for the $5-6 dollar price shock of Maple for a 6 to 8 foot by 24 inch top. 

I've read that folks are using SPF lumber. But I don't own a jack plane and it definitely seems like a big job for a first project. 

Another option is to just use a sheet of ugly 3/4 construction ply I have, and maybe make a face frame around it. 

Do you guys have any suggestions or maybe even a place I could buy a cheap butcher block counter top even?


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## Seawalker (Jul 18, 2012)

http://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/00274962/

A cheap butcher block top made of beech is another idea


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

Plankwalker said:


> Hello all. I'm putting together a workshop and am still agreen woodworker.
> 
> I had the idea that I would save money and build one of those Gladiator workbenches. I welded up the steel legs and frame. Just as a general purpose bench to go along the wall.
> 
> ...


I used southern yellow pine, but I had a jointer and planer. If you don't have the equipment yet, you can use solid core doors, doubled up MDF or plywood, etc.


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

An example of a solid core door:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN...shed-Hardwood-Front-Door-Slab-45605/202036049


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

The top of my workbench is made of 2x6's. As this does not provide for a smooth surface I laid 1/8" masonite over the 2bys. Can change out this masonite any time I think it has gotten dirty.

Makes a very solid work bench.

George


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Find a work bench you really want to have. Build the top per the plan and let it force you into buying the tools needed. Your going to have to bend over and buy them someday anyway.

Later you can build the bottom and throw the temp legs out and the top will be a joy to have unlike something you settled for.

I've never heard anyone say they regret spending the money on good tools that you really need to do the work with.

Al


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

A solid workbench is expensive ($300-$800 is not atypical with vises etc) and time consuming to make. Are you going to be doing a lot of hand tool stuff - if yes invest now it will be worth it. I use mostly power tools and use my workbench 90% of th3 time as an assembly table. I built a torsion box out of MDF. Super strong and dead flat if built properly. Cost me $70 without the base.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Plank walker
I suggest you use two sheets of 3/4" MDF for the top over your metal stand. This will give you a 1 1/2" solid feeling top. 
Screw the top piece to the piece on bottom so that the top piece can be turned over or replaced when it gets to looking bad in the future. 
The bottom piece will need to be screwed to the metal frame you've built. 
Make the top overhang the metal frame by at least 5" to give plenty of room to clamp something to the edge and keep your knees away from the legs. The flat surface will give you an excellent work top that will be inexpensive compared to other choices. 
Welcome to our forum.


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## Seawalker (Jul 18, 2012)

thanks for the advice folks. Some good ideas. Unfortunately budgets are tight. Tools tools and more tools. My hobby of welding has its own set of tools too. 

I would like to buy a jointer and planer but it's going to be down the road. 

What about 2 pieces of birch ply, I assume the veneer would just get all messed up in no time? Perhaps I'll settle for MDF or a door for now. I plan on sinking lags from up from the steel frame.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Plankwalker said:


> thanks for the advice folks. Some good ideas. Unfortunately budgets are tight. Tools tools and more tools. My hobby of welding has its own set of tools too.
> 
> What about 2 pieces of birch ply, I assume the veneer would just get all messed up in no time? Perhaps I'll settle for MDF or a door for now. I plan on sinking lags from up from the steel frame.


Did someone mention a solid core door? :thumbsup:

That is what my workbench is. I bought it at the Habitat Restore place for $8.25 (must have been sale Friday). It was marked $10, but I got a discount.

Obviously I couldn't use the whole thing, so later, I made a small table top for my neighbor.

My top is covered with Formica, but you could attach some 1/8th inch Masonite with wood screws countersunk so it could be replaced when it gets boogered up.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Like all woodworkers, I like my bench because it works best for me. Mine is a bit different and not very expensive to build. You could start with the basics and add T-tracks latter when your budget has breathing room and the basic can be a solid core door or 2 pieces of ply like Toolman suggests. Here is a link to my unique and versatile workbench.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/small-shop-workbench-revisited-76017/


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## NickB (Sep 24, 2013)

My bench uses 2 layers of 3/4"mdf with a 3/4" poplar face frame tied to the bottom mdf with pocket screws every 6". It's supported on roughly 2' OC underneath by the cabinet sides (3/4" construction grade plywood) with pocket screws going from the plywood into the mdf. The top sheet of mdf was cut 1/8" shorter and literally "drops in" with no fasteners, no glue.








Because of mdf's stability, it lays completely flat. Mdf has a much, much harder surface than most all plywood and in this application, will take abuse much better. I drilled some holes in the bottom sheet so that I can easily push the top out if it ever needs replaced. I'm certain I could beat on this thing with a sledgehammer with little more than a couple of dents.


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

NickDIY said:


> My bench uses 2 layers of 3/4"mdf with a 3/4" poplar face frame tied to the bottom mdf with pocket screws every 6". It's supported on roughly 2' OC underneath by the cabinet sides (3/4" construction grade plywood) with pocket screws going from the plywood into the mdf. The top sheet of mdf was cut 1/8" shorter and literally "drops in" with no fasteners, no glue.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you seal the MDF with anything?


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## NickB (Sep 24, 2013)

cps said:


> Did you seal the MDF with anything?


I did not. Not that I think it would be a bad idea. I just didn't see a need as it is intended on being sacrificial. If you do anything with liquids on it, I think it should be sealed. I did spill some stain and some poly on it so far, but I'm 100% okay with that. Sweat from cans or a little spilled beer doesn't seem to effect it, other than a temporary ring that goes away when it dries up.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

was2ndlast said:


> A solid workbench is expensive ($300-$800 is not atypical with vises etc) and time consuming to make. Are you going to be doing a lot of hand tool stuff - if yes invest now it will be worth it. I use mostly power tools and use my workbench 90% of th3 time as an assembly table. I built a torsion box out of MDF. Super strong and dead flat if built properly. Cost me $70 without the base.



I don't see how you would have to spend that much for a solid wood bench. My bench is maple, Oak and walnut. It's 35 years old and 25 years ago it was appraised at $2000. You just can't go wrong building one right.

Al


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

NickDIY said:


> I did not. Not that I think it would be a bad idea. I just didn't see a need as it is intended on being sacrificial. If you do anything with liquids on it, I think it should be sealed. I did spill some stain and some poly on it so far, but I'm 100% okay with that. Sweat from cans or a little spilled beer doesn't seem to effect it, other than a temporary ring that goes away when it dries up.


I was mainly thinking wood glue.....Being that it is a sacrificial top, probably doesn't matter too much.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

As you can see plankwalker - we woodworkers all have our own personal which works best for us... but do take notice of the fact that lots of benches have replaceable top layers. And do follow Al's advise - don't skimp on the most important component of your workshop... build your bench to meet your needs and don't skimp!


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## Seawalker (Jul 18, 2012)

Actually, I intended to place this bench olong the wall and put my tool box under it. I have a piece of kitchen counter top that I was going to use for my main bench. 

The place that sells all the hardwoods in my area is a bit of a drive( I live in baltimore). Looking at their price list for lumbar, why do places only list the prices for thickness? If they want $6 for 5/4 maple, it doesn't tell me how wide the board is. I might be able to rip it and get two or 3 pieces.


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

The price is per board foot which is 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide. They likely have various widths...if it's only 6 inches wide u pay $3 per foot of that board. And it's also likely all rough wood so the thickness after milling it straight and flat will be at least 1/4" less


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## Seawalker (Jul 18, 2012)

ahh ok, so 12 inches is sort of the standard then. Another question, is the wood tougher along its edge vs the flat side? Or do people just laminate it that way to get a thicker top?

Thank you guys for all the good info! I had some pictures but the site is not letting me upload them from my phone. Did work previously. 

Since I have a sheet of 3/4 ply I might just rip that in half, and stack, then place some laminate or MDf on top. That way I can put the money towards a plane and wet stone or something and build a smaller top for my first go around.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

This workbench cost me $56 in wood. Top is 5" thick, bench is 5' long, 29" deep. 
If you are interested look up Paul Sellers bench. It is his design, and works great for me. 

If you aren't satisfied with the pine and it's ability to be a "Strong" surface, then after the first year or so, you can hit the top with the jack plane and in 30 minutes it'll be like new....


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## Seawalker (Jul 18, 2012)

Wow that is thick. I saw his video and prompted my original post. Does he use 2x4 lumber with the edges ripped off


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

This bench can be built in stages. It's made up of a top which just sets on the base legs and isn't attached. The legs bolt together at the bottom to the length wise bottom rails. So it's easy to move by one person if needed. The Carcase of drawers is a separate box that also sits between the legs and is also not attached.

I built the bench almost 30 years ago and the carcase of drawers 29 years ago. I wouldn't have a shop without this bench.

Al


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

Plankwalker said:


> Wow that is thick. I saw his video and prompted my original post. Does he use 2x4 lumber with the edges ripped off


He uses 2x4's. The 2x6's at my my place were better quality so I used them. A no 5 plane will suffice if you like cardio... if you don't, then rip the rounds off on the table saw or jointer and laminate it up. 

Planing the faces will produce better glue lines, but is not a must have unless you're building an heirloom.


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