# Freud 12" 80 tooth saw blade



## dwendt1978 (Mar 13, 2010)

All of my tools contain the factory blade. I always figured "Hey there is no way they would build this nice of a tool and put a crappy blade on it". Boy was I wrong.

I decided to spend 60 bucks on a blade for my SCMS. On the way home I'm kicking myself because this is alot of money for something I already have and cuts just fine.

Upon taking my old 12" 60T off I set it aside and opened up my Freud 80T. I noticed right away you should almost have to handle this with gloves as it is SHARP! I installed it and decided to finish up some window trim I was working on. WWWWWWOOOOOOOWWWWW what a difference a nice blade can make. Every cut looked like it was sanded with 320 grit. My problem with tear out went away instantly.

Even the pretty red paint stays intact, so it always looks nice. I just can't get over the "sanded look" on every cut I make. To me I think it tightened up my miter joints unless I just got a jolt of that insane motivation/excitement. I am keeping my 60T for 2x4's and such but trim work FORGET IT back to the 80. 

I will definitely be replacing ALL of my blades with Freud now. Anyone kicking it around, it's like having a brand new tool. Can't wait for one on my RAS that has a 20 yr old blade!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Wich Freud blade did you get? :smile:


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## dwendt1978 (Mar 13, 2010)

Oops it was the Diablo.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

I got that blade to replace the utter piece of Garbage my HF 12" slider came with. This blade will make a cheapo saw cut like a million bucks! I can't imagine HOW a more expensive rig could cut any better... But I still drool over the Festool at Rockler!

FWIW, I have had similar experiences with all my Diablo blades, so far I have...

12" 80T in the SCMS.
10" 40T General Purpose in the table saw, this is my primary blade.
10" 80T crosscutting for the table saw.
7.25" 40T General Purpose in my circ saw.
7.25" 6T Hardie blade for my circ saw.

I am wanting a 24T 10" ripping blade for the table saw, just always seem to forget to grab one when I am at the BORG...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yup!*

Me too, big fan of the Diablos here. :thumbsup: I have the 24 T rip also.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

dwendt1978 said:


> Can't wait for one on my RAS that has a 20 yr old blade!


Glad to hear you had such good results...

Just a heads up, I put the same 12" 80t diablo on my RAS... I don't recommend it... The hook angle is too high making it scary for 8/4 oak...

I'm looking for a replacement for it with a 0 deg hook angle... You won't find one at a box store so if you want to be safe I'd look at ordering one before dropping money on one from your local box...

Looking like it's going to be a Forrest for me...

~tom


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Glad you realized how poor most stock blades are. Freud definitely makes some great blades, but I wouldn't exclude some of the other elite blade manufactures like Infinity, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, CMT, or Amana. The more you have to pick from, the better the odds of landing a super deal on a super blade! :thumbsup:


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Guys, 

Those factory supplied blades and HF blades are really very good at finding nails.

For each nail found, you saved about $60.


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## NorCal Scot (Dec 31, 2010)

That is a great blade! Glad you like it. The Hi- ATB tooth geometry really helps get a clean cut with minimal tearout. And the red on there is not a paint. It's actually an aluminum based coating. It performs a few functions...minimizes friction, minimizes heat, prevents rusting and hides blood!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

NorCal Scot said:


> and hides blood!


 
That's cold. :huh:


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## NorCal Scot (Dec 31, 2010)

mdntrdr said:


> That's cold. :huh:


Sorry, that joke works around the contractor crowd pretty well...


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

NorCal Scot said:


> That is a great blade! Glad you like it. The Hi- ATB tooth geometry really helps get a clean cut with minimal tearout. And the red on there is not a paint. It's actually an aluminum based coating. It performs a few functions...minimizes friction, minimizes heat, prevents rusting and hides blood!


Now I look like a lunatic laughing at that...


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## haugerm (Nov 19, 2009)

I laughed too, so at least we'll be lunatics together.
--Matt


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Out of curiosity, which 12" CSM do you have? I have the Milwaukee (too lazy to go look at the model number, but it has the fancy LED bevel) and was thinking about slapping one of the Diablos on the there to replace the DeWalt 32T that came with it when I bought it used. 

I've used the 1040X, the 1024 and the 1080 (obviously all 10" blades) with great luck, and I agree with your assertion that you should wear gloves when handling them.


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## dwendt1978 (Mar 13, 2010)

I have the Ridgid 12" SCMS. The thing is just a beast. Weighs in at a whooping 70lbs so it was a neccessity to get the stand with it.:thumbsup:


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## jstange2 (Dec 5, 2010)

I agree that most stock blades are not meant for detailed cuts. I bought a Makita ls1212 new and that blade was a 96-tooth, very nice. I just bought a Makita ls1016L and it has a 60 tooth that I have been very impressed with. I've trimmed 3 houses, 400 feet of 6 1/4" hickory crown, and a few remodels and it still cuts like new. I really need to find one of these as a replacement for when the original needs sharpening. I usually go get a FS tools blade when I get a new stationary saw because those are never good.


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