# Dark Cherry Stain



## trentwilson43056 (Nov 10, 2015)

Can anyone tell me how furniture manufacturers achieve such a dark color on their cherry furniture? I'm building a piece of cherry furniture for my wife that needs to match the color of a cherry dresser that she bought a few years back.I've never had much success at getting cherry as dark as they do.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

You will most likely will need to try several stains to get a close match. I would start with a Mahogany oil stain. 
You can darken the stain or lighten as needed, but you won't get the final results until you apply the final finish or top coat. To test, I would put some stain on a pre-sanded piece of Cherry wood, allow to dry for while and apply a finish of shellac to get the final look. Even if you don't plan to Shellac the piece, you can still use the Shellac to experiment with it because it can be applied with a brush and drys fast. 
Need it darker: add some dark walnut stain to the Mahogany stain. 
Need it lighter: add a lighter color like golden oak stain to the Mahogany stain. 
Mix small amounts until you get your match. 
Good luck.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

If you want to match the piece in the picture. You can use lye in water. Wipe it on like stain. Work fast and wipe it on as even as you can. Experiment with the amount of lye to get the color as dark as you need. Start with two table spoons in a pint of water.




















These pictures illustrate what I needed to stain and the results. The new piece needed to match the 25 year old bed frame. I've been using this method for 28 or so years. It's the no stain cherry stain. The lye mixture ages the cherry. It's almost foolproof.

Wear gloves. The lye becomes inert after it dries. Some light sanding is required after the treatment because it raises the grain. This can be minimized by wetting the wood after your final sanding, let the grain raise and sand down the fuzz.

Al B Thayer


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

The problem with Using pigmented stains is it muddies the grain and the wood becomes hoe hum. Not so sharp. My treatment leaves the wood with all the natural grain attributes. It's not a stain.

Al


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

First, manufacturers will start with solid cherry or cherry veneer. Second, when it comes to coloring and finishing, manufacturers will generally use a lacquer tinted with the color they want. They do not stain or dye the wood directly, Third, manufacturers do not use an off-the-shelf coloring. Their colors are generally custom formulated. Forth, manufacturers have someone on their staff who knows how to custom mix colors.

A final note: Even is you use the same species, the coloring will be different. Trees from different forests will generally color differently


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## Parabola (Feb 12, 2015)

Your original picture looks to have some red in it. If you go the stain route, a brown mahogany will not suffice. You will have to supplement with a merlot color or something similar.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

All Big furniture factories us dye stains to get at least 75% of the undertone color. So you would have to use a dye stain first and as Al pointed out above, a pigmented oil stain will muddy up the wood and you will loose its clarity. A wipe stain is not a good choice to use first to achieve a dark final color and keep the clarity of the wood.
After applying the dye stain, you would then applied a thinned down sealer (its called a washcoat in big factories) which will seal in the dye stain color and not allow the wipe stain to bite into the wood too much. 
Next you would apply your oil base wipe stain, which will aid in getting the final color and also color the deep grain. You would wipe this on, wait 30 seconds to a minute, then wipe it clean as possible.
Then you apply a high solids sealer. Once you apply a sealer, that the chance to see what the final color may look like. If this color is off, they will spray apply a shade pad to achieve the final color. If the color is right, no shade stain. Next apply the topcoat in the sheen of your choice and your done.

So a finishing schedule looks similar to this:
1. Sand cherry up to 180 grit
2. apply dye stain
3. washcoat....thinned sealer, scuff sand 320 grit
4. apply wipe stain, wpe clean
5. sealer, scuff sand 280 grit
6. shade stain if needed
7. topcoat

You can use these dye stain formulas to achieve that color, of course you will have to spray these along with the schedule above:

*Transtint*
1 part reddish brown
5 parts water
1/2 part golden brown
1/2 part honey amber

*General finishes*
2 parts cinnamon
1 part light brown


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

Thanks Randy. Going to use this same schedule but will be going for a much darker cherry..I'll be playing with dyes.


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

Most paint stores will custom mix stains--I just had a dark stain mixed for cherry--the local Benjamin Moore store spent hours getting a darn good match--all that for about $10 for a quart.

Bring several sanded pieces of cherry for them to experiment with. And bring a sample of the finished piece--I removed a cabinet door---


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

HowardAcheson said:


> First, manufacturers will start with solid cherry or cherry veneer. Second, when it comes to coloring and finishing, manufacturers will generally use a lacquer tinted with the color they want. They do not stain or dye the wood directly, Third, manufacturers do not use an off-the-shelf coloring. Their colors are generally custom formulated. Forth, manufacturers have someone on their staff who knows how to custom mix colors.
> 
> A final note: Even is you use the same species, the coloring will be different. Trees from different forests will generally color differently



Your last statement would be only true if you were using stain. With the lye treatment you can level the differences.

Al


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Your last statement would be only true if you were using stain. With the lye treatment you can level the differences.
> 
> Al


You can also get even color across the board using toners. Instead of using a dye stain, When I have different color variations of the same substrates, I usually take vinyl pigments and tint to the color I need in about 85% thinner reducer, then spray them out. Ties in nicely. Most people knows this type of stain as a "Rel-Stain".

This technique is used alot in the kitchen cabinet industry due to most cabinet door wood colors being all over the place. Most cabinet factories use either a dye stain or a toner as their first color coat followed by a wipe or glaze stain directly over the first color coat, then 2 coats of conversion varnish and its done. You read it right, only 4 steps. :thumbsup:


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

HowardAcheson said:


> First, manufacturers will start with solid cherry or cherry veneer. *Second, when it comes to coloring and finishing, manufacturers will generally use a lacquer tinted with the color they want. They do not stain or dye the wood directly*, Third, manufacturers do not use an off-the-shelf coloring. Their colors are generally custom formulated. Forth, manufacturers have someone on their staff who knows how to custom mix colors.
> 
> A final note: Even is you use the same species, the coloring will be different. Trees from different forests will generally color differently


Every big name factory I have ever been to always start with either a sap stain or an equalizer applied directly to their wood to help tie in different species of wood, then follow up with a dye stain or a Rel stain. Most of the time, a tinted lacquer is used right before final topcoat in the big factories.....but only if the color needs to be adjusted or they just need that look. Now adays, factories stay away from tinted lacquers. On a finishing line, color is adjusted (shaded or tied in) right after the last sealer and before the topcoats are applied.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

If we all try to stay within the parameters of the request posted by the OP. We run less risk of overwhelming the person trying to accomplish a simple task. 

It's fairly easy to tell from the picture we have a cherry piece of furniture. Not kitchen cabinets where less grain detail and less than fine finishes are the norm. Its finished with varnish that has to be at least 15 to 20 years old with the beloved darkening of the wood that only cherry wood develops. No mudding up the grain with a 10 step process that really only yields a finished color that may or may not match. 

Can we rest assured someone coming here seeking advise on furniture finishes is going to finish reading all the professional technique advise and hop out to the garage and turn out a perfectly finished product? Will they even find some of the products required? How about that learning curve? How about adding, " this is what I would do but I really doubt your going to replicate the finish".

Al B Thayer


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> If we all try to stay within the parameters of the request posted by the OP. We run less risk of overwhelming the person trying to accomplish a simple task.
> 
> It's fairly easy to tell from the picture we have a cherry piece of furniture. Not kitchen cabinets where less grain detail and less than fine finishes are the norm. Its finished with varnish that has to be at least 15 to 20 years old with the beloved darkening of the wood that only cherry wood develops. No mudding up the grain with a 10 step process that really only yields a finished color that may or may not match.
> 
> ...


With all due respect Al, thats how people learn, and some people find the information very informative. Some people actually respect the in depth information. Im sure was2ndlast doesnt mind.

On another note, its also not as easy to tell someone to put lye on a piece of wood and if the wood species is not the same you can can "level" the dye treatments and go "TA DA, perfect match". You know and I know, it doesnt work like that. Besides, he will not match the color and the deep tones in the picture he posted using lye by itself.

Just like in another post about matching a lighter walnut color, the OP was very thankful about the information provided and learned from it, even though it may have seemed overwhelming at first.....he ended up matching it.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I have used lye or sodium hydroxide to color cherry and a few other species of wood myself. (It is step one in a 2 part wood bleach by the way) Chemical stains can also blotch just like dyes or pigments if not properly applied AND with lye if you are using an acid catalyzed finish like conversion varnish or pre-cat lacquer the lye can neutralize the acid in the finish and cause problems like wrinkling. 

I enjoy the clarity of chemical staining and there are MANY different formulas. The problem with using them (there is no such thing as a perfect finish for everything) is that boards from different trees can come out a totally different color with the same chemical and there is no way to even out the color without resorting to a dye or pigment anyway. 

I think it best to consider the pluses and minuses of all finishes and colorants and use them according to the job you are working on and the look you are trying to achieve.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> With all due respect Al, thats how people learn, and some people find the information very informative. Some people actually respect the in depth information. Im sure was2ndlast doesnt mind.
> 
> On another note, its also not as easy to tell someone to put lye on a piece of wood and if the wood species is not the same you can can "level" the dye treatments and go "TA DA, perfect match". You know and I know, it doesnt work like that. Besides, he will not match the color and the deep tones in the picture he posted using lye by itself.
> 
> Just like in another post about matching a lighter walnut color, the OP was very thankful about the information provided and learned from it, even though it may have seemed overwhelming at first.....he ended up matching it.



Yeah yeah Randy. That's how I learned finishing, reading one post on a woodhead forum.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Rick Mosher said:


> I have used lye or sodium hydroxide to color cherry and a few other species of wood myself. (It is step one in a 2 part wood bleach by the way) Chemical stains can also blotch just like dyes or pigments if not properly applied AND with lye if you are using an acid catalyzed finish like conversion varnish or pre-cat lacquer the lye can neutralize the acid in the finish and cause problems like wrinkling.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I agree Rick,

But it just amazes me at how much gets thrown at a person just trying to get a simple answer. Some just don't understand or remember who they are giving advise to. Seems understandable by the question they haven't got experience yet we want them to use drum sanders and expensive spray equipment with a finish only pros use. 

Al


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Yeah yeah Randy. That's how I learned finishing, reading one post on a woodhead forum.
> 
> Al


Not everyone applies lye and a wipe on poly to everything they finish either. This is a new age Al.
What's funny is you gripe at me for posting too much information, but you post pics of cherry you finished using lye that's not gonna get him close to the color he wants. Makes sense to me.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

> Can anyone tell me how furniture manufacturers achieve such a dark color on their cherry furniture? I'm building a piece of cherry furniture for my wife that needs to match the color of a cherry dresser that she bought a few years back.I've never had much success at getting cherry as dark as they do.


 I don't recall recommending a drum sander or spray equipment. However that IS how the original furniture was finished. I also don't see anything about poly or whether the OP can spray or not. He asked how the furniture manufacturer achieved the finish. I thought Randy's response was accurate and just wanted to point out the potential problem of using sodium hydroxide with a catalyzed finish (many people on this forum do use that finish and recommend it). 

Also there is no perfect finish for everything. I remember a quote many years ago a mentor of mine told me, "When the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to look at all of your problems as nails."


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I used this ....*

BTW, I have rarely used a stain right out the can to make a matching color.... I end up mixing different stains in proport until it is close.


For a simple easy to apply stain try General Finishes stains in various colors:
http://www.rockler.com/ef-wood-stain-general-finishes-black-cherry


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rick Mosher said:


> I don't recall recommending a drum sander or spray equipment. However that IS how the original furniture was finished. I also don't see anything about poly or whether the OP can spray or not. He asked how the furniture manufacturer achieved the finish. I thought Randy's response was accurate and just wanted to point out the potential problem of using sodium hydroxide with a catalyzed finish (many people on this forum do use that finish and recommend it).
> 
> Also there is no perfect finish for everything. I remember a quote many years ago a mentor of mine told me, "When the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to look at all of your problems as nails."


Yeah, Al has a problem with me for some reason. It doesnt bother me. Whats funny is Al makes remarks about my answer to the OP's question, which I answered *correctly*, while Al suggests lye in water, which is totally *false*. Besides that, the OP would never get the color he is asking about by simply using lye.

Big furniture factories do not use lye in their finishing systems, ever.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The question was misleading ...*

How a furniture manufacturer gets a certain color on their stuff would have nothing to do with how you would duplicate it at home. :no:

You will need a sample test board of a similar wood, several colors of stain as I suggested above and then the top coat of your choice. You will mix and match until you get it close, let it dry and then top coat it. I know of no other way to get a good match.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> Not everyone applies lye and a wipe on poly to everything they finish either. This is a new age Al.
> What's funny is you gripe at me for posting too much information, but you post pics of cherry you finished using lye that's not gonna get him close to the color he wants. Makes sense to me.



Heavens Randy. I never use poly of any kind. It's not a fine finish. 

The lye treatment is so easy anyone can do it. But hey, keep banging the drum for Sherwin.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> How a furniture manufacturer gets a certain color on their stuff would have nothing to do with how you would duplicate it at home. :no:
> 
> You will need a sample test board of a similar wood, several colors of stain as I suggested above and then the top coat of your choice. You will mix and match until you get it close, let it dry and then top coat it. I know of no other way to get a good match.



I do.

Al


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK, then*



Al B Thayer said:


> I do.
> 
> Al



You made your bed, now you have to lye in it. :yes:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> Not everyone applies lye and a wipe on poly to everything they finish either. This is a new age Al.
> What's funny is you gripe at me for posting too much information, but you post pics of cherry you finished using lye that's not gonna get him close to the color he wants. Makes sense to me.



It most certainly will get him the color he wants. Very simple to test and increase or decrease the amount of lye. It's a real no brainer and just bugs the heck out of me when you say otherwise. Leads me to believe your only capable of doing finishes off the back of the SW can.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> You made your bed, now you have to lye in it. :yes:



That's so funny and soooo true.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> Yeah, Al has a problem with me for some reason. It doesnt bother me. Whats funny is Al makes remarks about my answer to the OP's question, which I answered *correctly*, while Al suggests lye in water, which is totally *false*. Besides that, the OP would never get the color he is asking about by simply using lye.
> 
> 
> 
> Big furniture factories do not use lye in their finishing systems, ever.



My pictures and life's work don't lye.

I try to avoid you Randy. But with all the years of work with cherry furniture. I'm compelled to give the OP a tried and true answer.

Al


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> My pictures and life's work don't lye.
> 
> I try to avoid you Randy. But with all the years of work with cherry furniture. I'm compelled to give the OP a tried and true answer.
> 
> Al


Lol. You try to avoid me, are you serious or delusional??? You called me out, and everyone reading this post can see it above! And what makes it worse is that your WRONG.

I can tell when you post you only use the same thing for every finish as Rick.pointed out.....what is it, lye and oil?? Truth be known, I bet if a customer asked you to match an oak finish on a piece of acacia substrate, you would not know where to start. Why do you leave the tougher finishes for the big guys and when someone wants to match a natural finish....we will let you handle that one.

You will NEVER get the color of cherry the OP was asking for by simply using lye itself.....do you think the pics you posted are even close to what he is looking for????? 

Al, Im not saying people never used lye to finish cherry....or even oak for that matter, because some did. 

Go back and read what the OP asked.....he asked how the BIG MANUFACTURERS got their cherry so dark.....he did not ask how a "mom and pop" shop tries to do it.

At least Rick knows I'm right.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> How a furniture manufacturer gets a certain color on their stuff would have nothing to do with how you would duplicate it at home. :no:
> 
> You will need a sample test board of a similar wood, several colors of stain as I suggested above and then the top coat of your choice. You will mix and match until you get it close, let it dry and then top coat it. I know of no other way to get a good match.


True....but the OP asked a simple question.....how do big manufacturers get their cherry so dark.....not at "home".


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> It most certainly will get him the color he wants. Very simple to test and increase or decrease the amount of lye. It's a real no brainer and just bugs the heck out of me when you say otherwise. Leads me to believe your only capable of doing finishes off the back of the SW can.
> 
> Al


Lye will not turn the cherry red....it only turns it different shades of brown. If you use lye as much as you say you do, you should know that. Lol


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Heavens Randy. I never use poly of any kind. It's not a fine finish.
> 
> The lye treatment is so easy anyone can do it. But hey, keep banging the drum for Sherwin.
> 
> Al


Where did I say anything about Sherwin Williams in this thread?????

I gave the OP formulas for trans tint and general finishes. Shows how much you actually read before jumping to conclusions.

Why don't you give him a formula on how much lye to use?


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

I want to apologize to the OP and everyone else for having to read through all of this useless, off topic information in his post.

I need to learn to just look over certain people in this forum and move on.

This forum really needs an ignore button.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

I have respect for both Al's and Randy's post. You guys have got to stop your pi**ing contest over this Cherry finish. 
What has proven to work well for Al in his workshop is a method that is not used in a high production furniture shop. Al knows it works well for him. The methods and techniques used by high production furniture shops are quite different from the small workshop finishes. Key word here is high production. 
Furniture production must be fast are they can't make any money. This includes the finishing techniques. 
The production shops use toners on their wood. They hide the real color of the wood. Mrs. Housewife can't tell real Cherry wood from Poplar on most furniture today. She buys the "look" of Cherry and she's happy. 
Even expensive, "high-end" furniture today is made and finished faster than in past times. Mid priced furniture is described as Hardwood or solid wood because the average buyer doesn't know Oak from Pecan. 
It's the world we live in. 
Both of you guys know how you like to finish a Cherry piece. That means you're already ahead of the rest of us that struggle in choosing the right finish. 
Next subject!


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> Lye will not turn the cherry red....it only turns it different shades of brown. If you use lye as much as you say you do, you should know that. Lol



So your just going to continue to be a jerk. Fine.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> Where did I say anything about Sherwin Williams in this thread?????
> 
> I gave the OP formulas for trans tint and general finishes. Shows how much you actually read before jumping to conclusions.
> 
> Why don't you give him a formula on how much lye to use?



It's posted. 

Your an amazing Sherwin Williams salesman. Keep up the good work. 

Al


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*read this post*



trentwilson43056 said:


> Can anyone tell me how furniture manufacturers achieve such a dark color on their cherry furniture?
> *
> I'm building a piece of cherry furniture for my wife that needs to match the color of a cherry dresser that she bought a few years back*.I've never had much success at getting cherry as dark as they do.





RandyReed said:


> True....but the OP asked a simple question.....how do big manufacturers get their cherry so dark.....*not at "home"*.


Just how do you think the OP will get a furniture manufacturer to come to his home and match his project? Of course he wants to match it at home.... duh. The title and the question is misleading as I stated above. The answers for the manufacturer's methods are irrelevant for him to match the color at home..JMO.

He has been given plenty of advice, some good and some irrelevant. :yes:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

trentwilson43056 said:


> Can anyone tell me how furniture manufacturers achieve such a dark color on their cherry furniture? I'm building a piece of cherry furniture for my wife that needs to match the color of a cherry dresser that she bought a few years back.I've never had much success at getting cherry as dark as they do.



This is aged cherry. It doesn't have stain on it.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)




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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK, then ....*



Al B Thayer said:


> This is *aged cherry*. It doesn't have stain on it.
> 
> Al


So where do you recommend the OP get some aged Cherry stock to build the furniture? :blink:

Without sounding like a complete dummy, is the lye technique you recommend an "aging" process? Do you think the lye technique was used by the furniture manufacturer also, since "aged Cherry" might be out of stock at the home store? :yes:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> So where do you recommend the OP get some aged Cherry stock to build the furniture? :blink:
> 
> Without sounding like a complete dummy, is the lye technique you recommend an "aging" process? Do you think the lye technique was used by the furniture manufacturer also, since "aged Cherry" might be out of stock at the home store? :yes:



The piece the OP posted is aged to that color. Easy to tell due to the blotches, the color and the fact that you can see the grain.

The lye treatment is a very easy to do process that ages the cherry without muddying the grain. Mix, apply, dry and test shade with MS. Add lye to the mix if needed. Then treat the piece. 









This piece is treated. See how it comes out when the finish is applied.








This is treated on half the board.








Both halves with finish applied.








Priceless!

Al


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Toolman50 said:


> I have respect for both Al's and Randy's post. You guys have got to stop your pi**ing contest over this Cherry finish.
> What has proven to work well for Al in his workshop is a method that is not used in a high production furniture shop. Al knows it works well for him. The methods and techniques used by high production furniture shops are quite different from the small workshop finishes. Key word here is high production.
> Furniture production must be fast are they can't make any money. This includes the finishing techniques.
> The production shops use toners on their wood. They hide the real color of the wood. Mrs. Housewife can't tell real Cherry wood from Poplar on most furniture today. She buys the "look" of Cherry and she's happy.
> ...



This is true. Like I said, the OP asked how the big manufacturers got that look and I told him in post #7. He said he was gonna do that schedule in post #8. End of discussion.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> Just how do you think the OP will get a furniture manufacturer to come to his home and match his project? Of course he wants to match it at home.... duh. The title and the question is misleading as I stated above. The answers for the manufacturer's methods are irrelevant for him to match the color at home..JMO.
> 
> He has been given plenty of advice, some good and some irrelevant. :yes:


The OP wanted to know how the big manufacturers got the color on the cherry dresser. That dresser is not aged cherry.....it is a finished product produced by a manufacturer. That dresser will have a dye stain, washcoat, wipe stain, probably 2 sealer coats, shade stain, and a lacquer on it to get that look. I gave him a finishing schedule in post #7 in which he can obtain that color, along with 2 different formulas for either trans tint or general finishes dye stain. In post #8 the OP said he will try the schedule. The OP can spray and has a spray booth in his basement, thats how I know he can do it. If the person could not spray, I would not have went through the trouble of posting the information. The OP can do that finishing schedule *at home*.

That schedule is done by big manufacturers as well as "mom and pop shops", as well as some DIY'ers in their garage. Steve, Rick, Toolman and some others on this site know this to be true as well. You cant just open a can of something, slap it on, throw 2 coats of finish on it and be done. You have to get most of the color with the dye stain, then get the rest of the color with a wipe stain which helps color the grain. If you try to get the color with just a wipe stain that dark, the finishing look will be too muddy, as Al pointed out in post #4. The dye is what keeps the clarity of the wood. The problem with using Lye is the OP will not get the color using lye alone. Lye turns the cherry more of a brown color, which you can see in Al's pics he posted. Its no where near the OP's color he wants to achieve.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> It's posted.
> 
> Your an amazing Sherwin Williams salesman. Keep up the good work.
> 
> Al


For the last time.....where did I try to point the OP in the direction of Sherwin Williams products in this thread???? Please refer to post #7, thats general finishes and trans tint.....not SW products. Then check post #8. The OP can spray and has a spray booth, so yes, he can do what I suggested very easily.

Al, Let me say this so you will understand. I dont care if the people on this forum use Sherwin Williams, Valspar, AZKO, Gemini, PPG, Cabot, Benjamin Moore, General Finishes, Trans Tint, or CCI, or LYE for that matter. Im on salary......I dont get commission off of anything. If everyone on this entire website stopped using Sherwin Williams made products, it would not hurt me one bit. Look at it this way, even if I did make commission, I doubt very seriously that people on this small website will actually buy enough for me to make anything off of it, and gallon here and a gallon there, really??? So you can just stop that routine right there. Thats crazy talk coming from you.

Before I leave this topic alone, I want to point out to everyone just how funny it is that you think the cherry dresser in the OP's first post is "aged to that color", *especially by a big manufacturer*, when it clearly has a wipe stain applied to it. Im sure Rick and Steve would back me on that call. All factories (which the majority of them are in Vietnam, China, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Mexico) all use new cut cherry veneer applied to fiberboard and finish out their furniture on a finishing line with anywhere from 5 to possibly 12 or more spray booths. They dont use "aged cherry veneer". Its also funny that you also still think that the pics you posted are close to the OP's dresser color, when its pretty clear that the "Lye dyed" cherry you posted is too brown and no where near the color he needs. Thats why I dont even know why im arguing with you on this subject. Now thats funny right there, I dont care who you are. :laughing:

I kinda wish the OP would use your Lye suggestion and then come back on board and tell you it was no where near the color he needs, but then again, why waste his time. 

Good luck to you Al.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)




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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*is that a dead horse, or ....*

Did he just pass out? Probably succumbed from smelling the caustic fumes from the lye.... ?

Anyway, there are a few different ways to skin this cat as indicated. All advice is truly appreciated by me, for one, since finishing, staining and top coating is not my favorite part of the woodworking realm. I do what I do and it works for me.

Here's my stain collection and samples, I made to keep track of which each stain looks like and on which wood, since that matters immensely in the getting the correct color results.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> Did he just pass out? Probably succumbed from smelling the caustic fumes from the lye.... ?
> 
> Anyway, there are a few different ways to skin this cat as indicated. All advice is truly appreciated by me, for one, since finishing, staining and top coating is not my favorite part of the woodworking realm. I do what I do and it works for me.
> 
> Here's my stain collection and samples, I made to keep track of which each stain looks like and on which wood, since that matters immensely in the getting the correct color results.


woodnthings, that is a very good way to keep track of what each stain looks like on each species of wood. I used to do that, but I also applied a 30 sheen gloss over half of the color so I could really see what the color looks like.

After awhile you will almost automatically know what stain to start with when you need a certain color, once you get used to it. Now I usually use U-dye concentrates and tint whatever I need on the spot to match what Im working on. All finishes, even a piece of naturally aged cherry veneer, can be matched using dye stains. All it takes is patience and of course scrap wood.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Did he just pass out?


No, he's just lye-ing there. :laughing:


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## trentwilson43056 (Nov 10, 2015)

Ok girls that's enough.I'm thinkin' I've got all the information I need.Thank you all very much.Thanks for the advocacy Al.


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

Rick Mosher said:


>


Hahaha


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

Btw, I find value in both answers.


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## trentwilson43056 (Nov 10, 2015)

*Free Advice*

Jesus gave free advice.And here's the thing the advice the he gave could no value be placed.


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