# Stripped jointer gib bolts help



## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

OK, I seemed to have two stripped jointer gib bolts on my Delta 8" jointer and can't get one of the knives off. I tried using some WD40, but these puppies are rounded and I can't get a grip on them. We tried to cut the heads off with an oscillating multi tool, but all we had was a blade for wood and now it is wrecked. Will a metal blade for this kind of tool cut these bolts?

Any other suggestions? I don't have a dremel, but would it have a blade that can cut these?

Back in jointer hell.

Thanks
Paul


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Also, should I try and order Delta replacement bolts or are these something I can get at the BORG?


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

The Delta parts website said they had the gib bolts in stock and at $1.19 ea., I figured I would just order them from them. They hit you with a $9.95 shipping charge whether it is two bolts or five, so I got some extras. I ordered five, probably should have got more to have on hand. I did order some other things to make the $10 shipping less painful. I got a new spring for the cutter guard and I ordered a small part for my Delta band saw. Now I just need to get the old ones out.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I'm betting they are 10 mm heads*

If all else fails you can saw them off using a Dremel and a cut off 
wheel. That will permit removing the gibs from the slots.

Remember that they turn CW in to shorten their length, not CCW!
Use a 10mm wrench and see if they will turn ..... :yes:


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

They were actually 8mm and that was loose, but 7mm was too tight. I don't own a dremel, but I do have use of one of those oscillating multi tools. I am hoping a blade made to cut metal will do the trick on OMT. A dremel would be cool to have, but I can think of other things I could use before I bought one. We will see.


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## RepairmanJack (Aug 4, 2013)

I'd suggest a narrow-tip vice grip, locked to the gib bolt. 

If you weld, a good trick is to put a small bead on the bolt - plenty of purchase. 

Get a set of small files (flat) and file a new surface on the gib bolt. go after it with a smaller wrench. Use a cheapie disposable wrench (slightly smaller) and hammer it on. 

Heat... such as from a small pipe-sweating torch. The metal will expand, and then spritz with water to "shrink" it and break the tension. 

Maybe the most straightforward of all. Cut the bolt off with a hack-saw, reciprocating saw, or a metal chisel. If the head stripped, it's probably not grade 8 hardware or tool steel.

Worst case.. pry the dang thing up after driving a wedge under the gib from the side. 

There are a lot of options here. You just want to minimize damage (obviously)


Get a new set of Gibs and Bolts from Grizzly if you need new ones. A complete set gibs, blades, and bolts for my 6" Enco cost me well under $50 w/ shipping.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Yea was gonna say real small vise grips- what do you have like 3/8" to work with?


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks RepairmanJack. I ordered new bolts, today, from Delta and I hope they get here soon. I was shocked that they showed in stock knowing all the problems folks have been having getting repair parts from Delta. My plan is to buy a metal cutting blade for an oscillating multi tool my brother has and hope it cuts the bolts. Next step would be a Dremel with cutoff wheel, but that would require me buying one and I don't really want to do that now. I tried the needle nose vice grips but they just rounded it more. I have a 4" grinder but I don't think it would fit in the groove and if it did, it might do more damage than it helps.

The worst part is after I get it out, I still have to reset the knives evenly, which was the major problem I had before this one. I am not good at it and hate doing it. I have yet to be able to get them right. Stay tuned.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

If your jointer is anything like my long gone 6", the heads of the bolts are metric and the threads are imperial. 

There is a hack saw blade holder at Lowes that would help you. The hack saw blade is held sort of like a pocket knife. I think that I would go that route before trying a multi tool.

As for aligning the blades. . . . 

Clamp two aluminum angle to the out feed table, one next to the fence and one at the outside edge. (Think angle iron but made of aluminum. I don't know what to call it.) Install a knife high. Snug the gib screws but not tight. Turn the cutter head backward and as the knives pass the aluminum they will be pushed to the appropriate height. Keep turning the head until you can tighten the gib screws.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Use a tight fitting wrench ... even if*

If you have to grind down the thickness of a good quality wrench to fit then do it now for this and for next time. The cheapie wrenches usually supplied to do fit tight enough and allow the heads to strip out.

A sharp tap on the wrench will always break a stuck bolt easier than increasing pressure. You can use the palm of your hand or a small dead blow plastic hammer. :yes:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Remember that they turn CW in to shorten their length, not CCW!
> Use a 10mm wrench and see if they will turn ..... :yes:


Sounds like you're backwards. I guess that depends on which way you're lookin' at them. The last time I removed a knife, on a Delta, the bolts were normal thread. That is, when unscrewing, the head backs out away from the gib and tightens the gib. When turning the bolt in, the head moves closer to the gib, for gib removal/loosening.


















.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Paul, I think if you take that head out of the jointer (which should be a 15 minute job) you'll find it's a lot easier to work on. I think if it's on a bench, you might be able to force something on to the bolt heads to get them loose.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Nope*



woodnthings said:


> Remember that they turn *CW in, to shorten their length*, not CCW!
> Use a 10mm wrench and see if they will turn ..... :yes:





cabinetman said:


> Sounds like you're backwards. I guess that depends on which way you're lookin' at them. The last time I removed a knife, on a Delta, the bolts were normal thread. That is, when unscrewing, the head backs out away from the gib and tightens the gib. *When turning the bolt in, the head moves closer to the gib, for gib removal/loosening.
> *
> 
> 
> .



By turning them IN ...CW, you shorten their length allowing them to release the pressure against the cutter head. NOPE, I'm not backwards., you're just repeating what I said.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> They were actually 8mm and that was loose, but 7mm was too tight. I don't own a dremel, but I do have use of one of those oscillating multi tools. I am hoping a blade made to cut metal will do the trick on OMT. A dremel would be cool to have, but I can think of other things I could use before I bought one. We will see.


What do you mean by "a dremel?" Dremel makes more than one type of tool. One type IS a multi-tool. Any brand of multi-tool should have a metal cutting blade that will do what you want.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the original Dremel*



GeorgeC said:


> What do you mean by "a dremel?" Dremel makes more than one type of tool. One type IS a multi-tool. Any brand of multi-tool should have a metal cutting blade that will do what you want.
> 
> George


The original Dremel is a small diameter, high speed rotary "grinding or polishing" tool.
It's only recently they have come out with the multi-tool.
Dremel have become a generic tool for the small high speed rotary tools made by most manufacturers, just like "skil" saw became the generic name for a hand held circular saw.

I would NOT use a multi-tool for this because the blade is hardened steel and will likely dull, but the rotary tool is an abrasive grinding wheel and will not dull in use, just wear down.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> By turning them IN ...CW, you shorten their length allowing them to release the pressure against the cutter head. NOPE, I'm not backwards., you're just repeating what I said.


I'm not trying to confuse anything. With a normal thread CW pushes the bolt head towards the cutterhead, making the gib tighter. My thinking with a normal thread, that clockwise will back the bolt out...making it longer. Maybe it's where you are standing, and how you are looking at the bolts.

Lets do it this way. Suppose you are on the side of the jointer where the guard is. If you put a wrench on the bolt head and pull it towards you, CW, the bolt backs out and gets longer and pushes against the gib making it tighter. If you push the wrench away from you (making it shorter), CCW, the bolt enters the gib and loosens the gib.

Your words: *Remember that they turn CW in to shorten their length, not CCW!*


















.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*CW vs CCW*

OK, if I turn a bolt CW it goes in, right? CCW it come out, right.
What to the bolts do in the gib? They bear against the cutter head, right? You want to release the pressure by turning them in CW, to shorten their length. Its the gib that's threaded, not the cutterhead, right?
I just did this on 2 jointers recently, so I think I have it correct, but of course I could be "backwards"..... right? :no:

See the bolt in the center and the near end are pulled off the cutterhead, showing a gap?










This video explains it at 1:08 in:





As far as removing 8:45 in:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> OK, if I turn a bolt CW it goes in, right? CCW it come out, right.
> What to the bolts do in the gib? They bear against the cutter head, right? You want to release the pressure by turning them in CW, to shorten their length. Its the gib that's threaded, not the cutterhead, right?
> I just did this on 2 jointers recently, so I think I have it correct, but of course I could be "backwards"..... right?
> 
> See the bolt in the center and the near end are pulled off the cutterhead, showing a gap?


You keep editing your posts, and don't state what you change, so I'm not sure where this all started. I sure don't want to re-read your posts and try to figure out what you said the first time.


















.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> The worst part is after I get it out, I still have to reset the knives evenly, which was the major problem I had before this one. I am not good at it and hate doing it. I have yet to be able to get them right. Stay tuned.


Might be a good time to look into a spiral cutter head. :smile:


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## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

I kind of got lost scanning the thread. If you still need to cut them, I'd use a narrow metal cutting disk on a 4-1/2" grinder, and go slowly and carefully.

I have an older model of this in 8". I use a narrow strip of Boxwood to install the blades. It's really quick. I put the sharp blade in place, and only tighten the end screws enough to hold the knife in place, but still be able to move it with fingers. Lay the strip of hard wood across the outfeed table on either end of the knife, and rotate the cutterhead back and forth. If the strip of wood is not too big, you can feel when the knife just barely strikes the wood. If it lifts the strip, use the strip to push it down flush with the outfeed table. When it's right, snug that bolt ever so slightly, so you can still move the knife on the other end. When you have both ends exact, and those bolts tightened, tighten the middle ones, and it's in.

After a few times, you should be able to install a knife in 30 seconds. I have a micrometer for setting knives, as well as the magnetic things. The boxwood strips are much quicker and easier for me. My boxwood strips are maybe 1/4 x 1/2-just some leftovers from replacing boxing in molding planes that I tried once, and have never pulled the other rigs out of the Setup toolbox since.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Give edge of the bolt head a sharp rap with a cold chisel, just make sure you hit it in the direction to turn the bolt into the gib. That would be CW if you were looking down at the top of the bolt head.


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

You said that you had an angle grinder, correct? I believe that this would be your best bet, and should only take a few minutes. I was just down at lowes and saw a Dewalt metal cutting wheel for just under $3. The thickness of the wheel was 0.045, or just over 1/2 the thickness of a penny. Follow the steps outlined below:

1. Tap a wooden wedge between the end of the cutterhead and the steel block that supports the cutterhead shaft. Check to see that the cutterhead is fixed and won't move.

2. Grab the angle grinder with your left hand cradling the body of the grinder, and fix your hand against the table solidly so you have a very steady grip.

3. Use your right hand to hold the grinder at the tail of the tool close to the cord. Brace both elbows against your ribs, and your hip up against the jointer table, feet firmly planted.

4. With the grinder off practice lifting the end of the grinder which will slightly pivot in your left hand which is braced. (similar to using a lathe, rubbing the bevel and lifting the handle to start the cut.)

5. Start the grinder and using the bottom of the wheel starting a score line. Lift, then go slightly deeper and also very slightly widening the groove. Remember what you are cutting is under compression, thus slightly widening the notch the blade will follow. Once you get it started it will be a very easy job.
6. Complete the cut and make sure you don't get hit by the cut off piece, or better yet stop just barely short of cutting through and use your wrench to twist off the last little bit off the head. (You may want to practice the technique by putting the threaded end of a small screw in a vise and cutting the head off.) 


DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE USE HEAT, TRY TO DRIVE/CHISEL THE GIBS LOOSE.... (It is easy to spring/distort the cutterhead by just over tightening the screws)


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

Tom King said:


> I kind of got lost scanning the thread. If you still need to cut them, I'd use a narrow metal cutting disk on a 4-1/2" grinder, and go slowly and carefully.
> 
> I have an older model of this in 8". I use a narrow strip of Boxwood to install the blades. It's really quick. I put the sharp blade in place, and only tighten the end screws enough to hold the knife in place, but still be able to move it with fingers. Lay the strip of hard wood across the outfeed table on either end of the knife, and rotate the cutterhead back and forth. If the strip of wood is not too big, you can feel when the knife just barely strikes the wood. If it lifts the strip, use the strip to push it down flush with the outfeed table. When it's right, snug that bolt ever so slightly, so you can still move the knife on the other end. When you have both ends exact, and those bolts tightened, tighten the middle ones, and it's in.
> 
> After a few times, you should be able to install a knife in 30 seconds. I have a micrometer for setting knives, as well as the magnetic things. The boxwood strips are much quicker and easier for me. My boxwood strips are maybe 1/4 x 1/2-just some leftovers from replacing boxing in molding planes that I tried once, and have never pulled the other rigs out of the Setup toolbox since.


 Tom, I did notice you had already suggested this, but felt he must not have a lot of experience, or this would have been a non issue and not ever even been posted. That is why I reposted in detail, hoping the OP didn't take offense. Have a good day!


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks for the grinder posts folks. I don't have much experience grinding and I do have a 4 "grinder, but didn't know they made a thinner wheel for it. I have access to dremel tomorrow and may try that before going the big grinder route.


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## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

I would feel safer doing it with the side grinder. Either way, I'd wear a full face shield. The 4" cutting wheels are a lot tougher, and don't explode as easily as Dremel disks do. I know the Dremel would seem like the least likely to screw something up, but the side-grinder disk will cut it so much quicker and be done with it, even taking your time, and easing into it.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*before you do that*

I would:
1. find the closest size metric or standard SAE wrench and "drive/hammer" it on the rounded head bolt. Give it a quick rap CW with a small hammer and it will break free or I owe you a virtual beer.
2. Take a heavy screw driver or cold chisel and drive it in between the gib and the cutterhead right next to the bolt on the left side, since you will be turning the wrench CW. This will relieve the pressure on the bolt allowing it to turn. or I owe you a virtual beer.
3. rap the area around the bolt with a brass hammer to loosen any rust that may have built up. 
4. drive the gib and blade from right to left just a touch to see it it will move using a brass block and hammer. It may loosen up enough to unscrew the bolt.
:blink:
5. as a last resort grind off the head leaving enough threads to grip with a Vise Grips.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> I would:
> 1. find the closest size metric or standard SAE wrench and "drive/hammer" it on the rounded head bolt. Give it a quick rap CW with a small hammer and it will break free or I owe you a virtual beer.
> 2. Take a heavy screw driver or cold chisel and drive it in between the gib and the cutterhead right next to the bolt on the left side, since you will be turning the wrench CW. This will relieve the pressure on the bolt allowing it to turn. or I owe you a virtual beer.
> 3. rap the area around the bolt with a brass hammer to loosen any rust that may have built up.
> ...


You're calling rotation direction CW or CCW depends on your perspective of view. So, that we are talking about apples, I posted an image of a bolt and a nut. Imagine if you will, that the positioning of the nut and bolt is representative of the OP's picture in the layout of the gib and the bolt.

So, in the picture below, if you put a wrench on the bolt head, and pushed it forward (away from you), so the bolt threads into the nut, the bolt is turning CCW. This rotation in essence, would bring the bolt head towards the gib, and away from the cutterhead.

If, you put a wrench on the head, and pulled it towards you...so that the bolt unthreads (backs out), the bolt is turning CW. This in essence, would move the bolt head closer to the cutterhead, and once contact is made would force the gib to tighten. 

I think I have explained the rotation with a specific perspective.


























.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> You're calling rotation direction CW or CCW depends on your perspective of view. So, that we are talking about apples, I posted an image of a bolt and a nut. Imagine if you will, that the positioning of the nut and bolt is representative of the OP's picture in the layout of the gib and the bolt.
> 
> So, in the picture below, if you put a wrench on the bolt head, and pushed it forward (away from you), so the bolt threads into the nut, the bolt is turning CCW. This rotation in essence, would bring the bolt head towards the gib, and away from the cutterhead.
> 
> ...


Me thinks someone has some ego issues!! Why is it that nearly everything you post is to tell someone they are wrong and your way is right? It dosnt seem to matter what the conversation is about. It seems at times, you invent things just to be different and then will argue that your new invention is the only way. I respect your experience and skill but your posts sure are annoying. Everythime I see woodnthings post, I know the next post is from you telling him hes wrong. By the way, if anything is confusing anyone in this thread, its the way your trying to explain how a bolt works. What ever happened to righty tighty, lefty loosey? Righty tighty(CW) tightens a standard thread bolt, which in this instance loosens the gib so, he needs to turn the bolt CW to loosen the gib. The only way your method even begins to make since is if your looking at the bolt from the threaded end and I dunno anyone that explains bolt operation from that end.:thumbsup:


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> I would:
> 1. find the closest size metric or standard SAE wrench and "drive/hammer" it on the rounded head bolt. Give it a quick rap CW with a small hammer and it will break free or I owe you a virtual beer.
> 2. Take a heavy screw driver or cold chisel and drive it in between the gib and the cutterhead right next to the bolt on the left side, since you will be turning the wrench CW. This will relieve the pressure on the bolt allowing it to turn. or I owe you a virtual beer.
> 3. rap the area around the bolt with a brass hammer to loosen any rust that may have built up.
> ...


 Bill, writing this with the best of intentions for all:
1. Good idea, no downsides
2. This will work, but the gib screws are already over tightened.
This technique _could permanently damage the cutterhead_. I know you worked for GM, don't you remember about torque sequences, torque plates... the forces here are much more extreme. Ever seen the demo of someone using a telescoping gauge, or inside mic. in the bore of a small block and flexing the walls with their bare hands, and having the mic fall out? That did no damage, just eye opening. Here you are likely going beyond the modulus of elasticity... 
3. Don't see any rust, and the OP has already used a penetrant.
4. See number 2, or talk to a machinist or engineer. 
5. Not last resort, but a follow up if #1 didn't work. Downside: if slot is not widened and if done carelessly, the disc could bind and possibly shatter. That is why I suggested widening the slot, and cutting 90% of the way through, then using #1. Definitely something to think about, but no more difficult or dangerous than a rip cut on the table saw. Of course as mentioned elsewhere guards, safety shields... which applies in any workshop.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

BassBlaster said:


> Me thinks someone has some ego issues!! Why is it that nearly everything you post is to tell someone they are wrong and your way is right? It dosnt seem to matter what the conversation is about. It seems at times, you invent things just to be different and then will argue that your new invention is the only way. I respect your experience and skill but your posts sure are annoying. Everythime I see woodnthings post, I know the next post is from you telling him hes wrong. By the way, if anything is confusing anyone in this thread, its the way your trying to explain how a bolt works. What ever happened to righty tighty, lefty loosey? Righty tighty(CW) tightens a standard thread bolt, which in this instance loosens the gib so, he needs to turn the bolt CW to loosen the gib. The only way your method even begins to make since is if your looking at the bolt from the threaded end and I dunno anyone that explains bolt operation from that end.:thumbsup:


You're entitled to your opinion. If I disagree with a suggestion or method, I will give my opinion. As far as the CW/CCW issue, as long as it's clear which way the bolt turns with a wrench to loosen and tighten the gib. 


















.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*what is escaping the picture here*

Most bolts are used in tension/compression to hold things together! The more you turn the bolt CW or the nut if you are looking at that end, the tighter the pieces in between will be.

This is the opposite situation since the bolt is pushing away, not pulling together, so you must turn the bolt in, CW to reduce the length and release the pressure. Shheesh. It doesn't matter if you are standing on your head, CW rotation turns the bolt in. :yes:


BTW we have no nuts in this issue, only bolts....ooops I take that back, there is one.
You just need you watch the video as he turns the bolt CW to remove the gib if there is any doubt. 8:45 in


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Well I got one loose. I found a better 8mm wrench and it got just enough bite to get it loose. I thought I was on a roll, but the other one is so rounded it is a no go. I did get a little impatient and took a cold chisel under the loose side of the knife and tried to lift it out. I was hoping it would come out or at lease loosen the gib, but no. I am now hoping it didn't bend the knife, but I got another set coming, if it did. I also hope it didn't mess with the cutter head or I will be getting that Shelix sooner, rather than later.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> You're entitled to your opinion. If I disagree with a suggestion or method, I will give my opinion. As far as the CW/CCW issue, as long as it's clear which way the bolt turns with a wrench to loosen and tighten the gib.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


And I understand giving your opinion. I give my opinion when I have one or when a question is asked that I have knowledge about. I try to be helpful when I can. My point was that you argue for the sake of argueing, just to be different, just to be right and its rediculous. I mean, on a normal day, would you explain how a bolt works the way you have here? I doubt it. Ive never heard anyone describe the operation of a bolt the way you have which leads to the point, your argueing just for the sake of argueing. Had woodnthings not beat you to the post, you would have explained it the same way he did.

Sorry OP. Didnt mean to change your thread direction.


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Well I got one loose. I found a better 8mm wrench and it got just enough bite to get it loose. I thought I was on a roll, but the other one is so rounded it is a no go. I did get a little impatient and took a cold chisel under the loose side of the knife and tried to lift it out. I was hoping it would come out or at lease loosen the gib, but no. I am now hoping it didn't bend the knife, but I got another set coming, if it did. I also hope it didn't mess with the cutter head or I will be getting that Shelix sooner, rather than later.


Glad to see you made some progress. The knives are in a wedged position with the gib, making it highly unlikely you'd ever throw a knife like some old jointers did taking a piece of the table with it. Bet you're a believer in how well the system is designed. If I can do anything to help, feel free to ask.

BTW the Byrd shelix is a definite upgrade, and whether you cutterhead is fixed, or not it is a great enhancement with a better quieter cut, as well reducing sharpening's, resetting blades... You have a very nice jointer and definitely worthy of the cost of the head. Hope to see you around.:smile:


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

*Dremel Baby!*

Borrowed a co-workers Craftsman "Dremel" with actual Dremel accessory kit and used a small cut off wheel to cut the one remaining bolt. Did a little damage to the gib though, cutting a slot in the tiny remains of the bolt, for a screw driver. Turns out I probably didn't need the slot. The piece would have come out with my fingers, if I tried, it was so loose. I don't think the small slot in the gib will mess me up.

I wish I ordered more bolts from Delta, although they have not shipped yet. I only ordered five and this one gib needs at least two. I sure hope they aren't yanking my chain on them being in stock. I will rage an internet social media holy war against Delta if they screw me. I may look to a local source for some bolts.

Do you think I should grind the slot in the gib smooth or just let it be? I am thinking let it be.

Thanks all for your help.

Paul


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I also have a new set of knives on the way from Holbren. I know I just put these in there a few months ago, but it can't hurt to put new ones in since they were only $22.50. It is almost not worth sharpening them after the cost of shipping. These knives in it now are from Titan. I was told they were good. I may look for a local place to sharpen them.


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

Congratulations on your persistence and finding a way to get it done! Once you get the bolts, I'd just put it together and set the knife heights and not worry about the score mark(s). Don't forget to clean any loose debris and use some lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, or similar to remove any traces of the penetrant you used. Keep the thinners AWAY from the bearings. You may want to apply the thinner to a rag instead of spraying... Snug, but do not over tighten the gib screws. I know, I know, just had to say that.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

The Titan knives are the best I'd bought from maybe 3 different aftermarket manufacturers (mine were planer knives). Definitely worth sharpening/keeping. Glad you got it resolved.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Maybe next time you shouldn't crank them down so tight?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Great advice.....*

Righty loosey, lefty tighty ....HUH? :blink: :yes:


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## punkin611 (Sep 17, 2013)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> OK, I seemed to have two stripped jointer gib bolts on my Delta 8" jointer and can't get one of the knives off. I tried using some WD40, but these puppies are rounded and I can't get a grip on them. We tried to cut the heads off with an oscillating multi tool, but all we had was a blade for wood and now it is wrecked. Will a metal blade for this kind of tool cut these bolts?
> 
> Any other suggestions? I don't have a dremel, but would it have a blade that can cut these?
> 
> ...


 I've had that problem with a used jointer I bought. I used "FABULOUS BLASTER penetrating catalyst" on mine: heated 'up with a paint removing heat gun let it sit overnite resprayed it used the same wrench I rounded them over with and they came right out. you can get it at a auto supply store. It made believer out me.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*wrenching vs woodworking*

The fit of a wrench on a bolt has to be a tight as possible. :yes:
Any play in the wrench will round over the edges of the head and you will be SOL.
It's happened to me also, but I have learned that applies not only wrenches but sockets. A 12 point socket, the most common, will round off a bolt more easily than a 6 point. Now with both Metric and SAE /USA standard nuts and bolts, it's way too easy to select the wrong size wrench or socket. Once replacing a front wheel hub on our 98 Caddy, my son announced "I stripped the bolt" I said "You fix that or you won't be driving to work, you'll be walking 15 miles". Well, long story, short he was using a Metric socket that was a bit loose, after checking on one of the bolts that had been removed, so I hammered on a USA socket and gave the wrench a quick slap and it broke loose. 

The other issue on these jointer bolts is that you turn them in, CW to loosen them, and release the pressure on the gib. It's too easy to get confused and turn them the wrong way thinking you are loosening them. I doubt if they were rusted in place since they were just recently installed, BUT thanks for that tip. :yes:


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## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

That ground slot won't hurt anything, but that surface of the gib needs to be nice and flat. I slide the knife between the cutter head and the gib to adjust it into position by feel with a strip of hard, smooth grained wood, so with my method you would want a nice smooth surface. I'd flatten the surface with the slot with Wet-or-Dry sandpaper on a flat surface.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*Is it tight enough?*

Seems like explaining how to tighten and loosen a gib keeps getting explained. The problem is common with nuts and bolts, and wrenches that don't fit properly. With a good fitting wrench, it's fairly easy to over tighten a nut or bolt. Using an ill fitting wrench, the heads can get rounded off. 


















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