# Advice for finishing a barn wood table



## AmyJ (Jan 7, 2013)

Hi there! I'm looking for some expert advice on a dining table that someone made for me out of old barn wood. To the sanded unfinished top, I applied 3 coats of Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, which is a mixture of Lindseed oil, tung and wax. I had originally wanted to top the table with paste wax as I'd always heard that it gives a nice time-worn finish to antiques and reproductions when you want the piece to look antique. However, I'm now reading that paste wax is not a good choice for something like a dining table, especially since I do not want to have to refinish it every few months. I'm confused though because the Behr can makes it sound like it is suitable as a table finish, and even references paste wax specifically, saying that the piece can be sealed with paste wax 24 hours after the last application of the tung oil finish. My question is this: Having applied the tung oil "finish" and aiming to have a protective seal (not having to periodically refinish/seal) but with a time worn look, where do I go from here to complete my project? If it matters, I didn't really intend to use tung oil "finish"--I didn't realize it wasn't pure tung oil and just knew I wanted to use a clear oil to draw out the wood's natural color. I happened to have the Behr Tung Oil finish on hand. Thank you in advance for your expertise!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Tung oil itself is waterproof and mixed with linseed oil and wax I would consider it water resistant so I would think it would be suitable for a dining room table provided you applied it according to directions. If you have enough of the oil finish on the table and it has cured I don't see any reason you can't use paste wax on the table. Just don't try putting more oil back on the table once you put paste wax on it. Personally I would do what you don't want and periodically re-oil the table and not use the wax to rejuvenate normal wear and tear. 

Since you are already familiar with tung oil you know it takes a long time to dry so I would give the behr finish time, especially this time of year. Rushing to put paste wax on it may have a adverse reaction.


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## AmyJ (Jan 7, 2013)

Thank you, Steve, for your reply. After reading more about paste wax, I don't want to put it on the table top. I also really don't want to have to re-oil periodically. What do you think about finishing the table top with a matte poly, rubbed down w/steel wool after it is dry to knock down any shine, and applying paste wax to the legs and skirt of the table, which I painted with milk paint? Thank you again for your input, I do appreciate it!


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

You should read a thread by long knife. He works with barn wood and built this beautiful bed. 
Here's the link. 
Good luck. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/barnwood-bed-project-tons-pics-46663/


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

AmyJ said:


> Thank you, Steve, for your reply. After reading more about paste wax, I don't want to put it on the table top. I also really don't want to have to re-oil periodically. What do you think about finishing the table top with a matte poly, rubbed down w/steel wool after it is dry to knock down any shine, and applying paste wax to the legs and skirt of the table, which I painted with milk paint? Thank you again for your input, I do appreciate it!


 This is kind of a gray area for me. The finish you used has a wax content and it isn't recommended to use poly over wax. I think it would be like putting poly over shellac. Since standard shellac has a wax content it isn't recommended to put poly over it. I'm guessing here but I think if you put a coat of de-waxed shellac (Zinsser Sealcoat) over the finish you have first as a barrier coat you could use satin polyurethane on it. I'm sorry but that is all I can offer. I've never used the Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish so I don't have any experience with it.


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## AmyJ (Jan 7, 2013)

Wow! I have an even greater appreciation for barn wood furniture now!


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## AmyJ (Jan 7, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> This is kind of a gray area for me. The finish you used has a wax content and it isn't recommended to use poly over wax. I think it would be like putting poly over shellac. Since standard shellac has a wax content it isn't recommended to put poly over it. I'm guessing here but I think if you put a coat of de-waxed shellac (Zinsser Sealcoat) over the finish you have first as a barrier coat you could use satin polyurethane on it. I'm sorry but that is all I can offer. I've never used the Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish so I don't have any experience with it.


Thank you, good info. which I hadn't thought about. Will do some further research and experimenting with scrap.


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## AmyJ (Jan 7, 2013)

So I called the Behr company directly to ask about their product. The technical adviser was very helpful and told me that indeed the project on which the Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish had been used could be topped with an oil based poly. She confirmed that the wax content in the Tung Oil Finish was low enough that the poly would adhere. Thanks again for bringing that point to my attention.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

AmyJ said:


> So I called the Behr company directly to ask about their product. The technical adviser was very helpful and told me that indeed the project on which the Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish had been used could be topped with an oil based poly. She confirmed that the wax content in the Tung Oil Finish was low enough that the poly would adhere. Thanks again for bringing that point to my attention.


 Thanks for the info. I kinda thought perhaps the finish didn't have much wax in it but I hated to recommend putting polyurethane over it since they say not to use poly over standard shellac.


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