# Need advice on board flattening



## phbrooker (Jul 6, 2018)

I build table and wine racks that the legs on average, are around 12"x3" crossection but are curved and tapered and join the tabletop at an angle. Joining isn't the problem as much as reproducing a consistently horizontal cutoff. I have built a sled that can be adjusted to a majority of heights and cuts at dead on horizontal but here's the problem: my work involves step laminating so there are a couple of hidden trim nails through each piece. The ideal situation would be using a router but I cannot find a square router bit that could handle a bit of steel without completely destroying itself. The other choice is to set up a horizontal cutoff saw with a wood/metal blade: the only problem being, I am limited to about 2" worth of cut. That would give a nice tight exterior cut and leave the sanding to the hidden center (see pic#1). 

The other odd cutting problem I have is making extremely long, shallow cuts (like a shallow slice off a potato) - I also have designed curved sections 16"x40" (see pic#2) that sit up off the wall but are flush on the back side. This one would be really ideal for a leveling router but again, the nails. Right now I am sanding and checking etc. but am not happy with the amount of time it is taking. A super flat/hard/rough sanding disc may work but making passes would likely take as long and sanding and checking for flush etc.

Get your brains together boys, it may be a rough ride. And thanks for all the help in advance!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The table legs I would be inclined to laminate two pieces of plywood together in a mold to make the shape. Don't know the finished thickness. If it's only like 1/4" thick you could laminate two pieces of 1/8" door skin and tape the edges. 

The wine rack I can't see enough in the pictures to tell what it needs to be.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

I keep a supply of brass brads on hand - originally to tack a 1/4 ply on the table of my radial arm saw - but also handy for those situation were just nothing else works.

carbide blades/bits will cut non-ferrous without damage.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*wood blades don't cut metal ......*

You need a nail cutting circular saw blade IF you are going to cut through steel nails:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/...-4ba7-a53a-d36c4e4d0000&utm_content=Catch All

Otherwise, devise a clamping method so you don't have to use nails to form the curves. A long board with bolts going through along one edge that you can tighten as you go, would work.


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