# Workbench top thickness



## Tom_in_PA (Dec 12, 2011)

I have read debates on this topic and primarily it sounds like if you are using hand tools 3" or greater is preferred. I am in the process of building my bench out of recycled ash used as a farm wagon beams. In milling the stock for the top getting all the twist and split wood out I will end up with 2 5/8 top before glue up. Assuming I will only lose another 1/8 for final flattening (if my glue up goes as well as I hope!) 

My question on this topic is will 2 1/2" really be enough for hand tool use? The base is ash as well with 3 3/4 legs and will be 7 or 7 1/2' long.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Just remember a heavy top doesn't mean much if the base is weak. I used a 3/4 top for many years and recently acquired a 8/4 hickory top which sounds better but the foundation is key to me:yes:


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Tom
A 2" Ash top will be more than sufficient for a workbench top.


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

That should make for a fine top-----


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## Tom_in_PA (Dec 12, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback. I really was hoping to get 3" (or more) out of it but I had a lot of twist and cracks that had to be addressed when doing the originally milling. 

At this point what do I have to lose as the lumber only cost me $50 😜 I love finding deals and recycling lumber.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Glue your top upside down on wax paper... gluing upside down will ensure you the truest flat surface with the least amount of planing to get your perfect flat top. The wax paper will prevent your top bonding to the temp workbench.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

The top of my primary bench is several 2x6 laid flat. Plenty of strength and bounce free surface for pounding.

George


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

What thickness top is your face vice made for?


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## Tom_in_PA (Dec 12, 2011)

I got a Veritas double screw vise for the face vise. I will be glueing an additional piece on the bottom of the bench for the the faceplate. I got a generic single screw vise that I am going to use as the tail vise. I am making my version of Robert Lang's 21st Century workbench.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Lang's got a nice bench but I'm not sure I'd like the tool tray in the middle of the bench. I have a tool tray on the back side and couldn't do without it for about a hundred reasons. 

Glad to see guys still building woodworking benches. 

Al








Al


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

I would love to work with that bench Al, what a classic


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## Tom_in_PA (Dec 12, 2011)

The tool trays in the middle are removable and can actually be flipped upside down make it a flat top. I like the idea for a number of different reasons or at least in theory at least.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Tom_in_PA said:


> The tool trays in the middle are removable and can actually be flipped upside down make it a flat top. I like the idea for a number of different reasons or at least in theory at least.



I'm betting you put a few things in it and get tired of taking them out to rotate. Then you either stop using the tray or quit rotating. At any rate, it's a great way to do woodworking. So many sell out when it comes to the work bench and never know how much better the work gets done and what a joy it is to have. It's my number one tool and they would have to "pry it from my cold dead hand".

Get crackin and start a thread on your build and be an inspiration to us all.

Al


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## jimaspin2 (May 23, 2012)

Al Thayer,
In your bench pic the left end appears to have a foot that is suspended. Is it just. My old eyes or is something else going on?
Thanks for your info.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

jimaspin2 said:


> Al Thayer,
> In your bench pic the left end appears to have a foot that is suspended. Is it just. My old eyes or is something else going on?
> Thanks for your info.


LOL..I saw the same thing. I think you are seeing a shadow from the vice. The floor is playing tricks on us.


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## skunkbad (Aug 15, 2015)

I'm in the process of planning my new workbench, and was wondering if the top could be too thick? My current plan is to use a bunch of 2x4s, so it would end up being roughly 3.5 inches thick.


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

skunkbad said:


> I'm in the process of planning my new workbench, and was wondering if the top could be too thick? My current plan is to use a bunch of 2x4s, so it would end up being roughly 3.5 inches thick.


I would go with the 2x4 with a 1.5" thickness... Hold-Down clamps should work fine... IMHO, would be thick enough, etc.

Like Fine Woodworking's New Fangled Workbench...


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

abetrman said:


> LOL..I saw the same thing. I think you are seeing a shadow from the vice. The floor is playing tricks on us.



What the deuce. I see it too. 

Al


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

My Roubo is 4" thick, with 5" square legs. It's really good at staying put. Not so handy if you need to move it often. 

Made from box store 2x12 SYP and a half gallon of Titebond II Extend:


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

WesTex said:


> My Roubo is 4" thick, with 5" square legs. It's really good at staying put. Not so handy if you need to move it often.
> 
> Made from box store 2x12 SYP and a half gallon of Titebond II Extend:


Would take bigger & tougher clamps to clamp anything to the Top too... :thumbdown:


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

Not really. A bit longer maybe. It is only a couple of inches thicker than most. However I use the iron holdfasts (the one in the picture was in the deadman to support a cabinet door while in the leg vise) much more than clamps. To clamp down, stick it in a dog hole, lay the flat over the workpiece and rap it sharply. I also use dogs with the vises (leg and end). Many operations only require a stop or two with no clamping needed.


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## Tom_in_PA (Dec 12, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> Get crackin and start a thread on your build and be an inspiration to us all.
> 
> Al


I am not good at documenting my work but think I might give it a try. I will take some pictures of my progress to date and then keep it going. Might be a while until it is complete as I don't get to spend as much time as I would like out in the garage


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Tom_in_PA said:


> I am not good at documenting my work but think I might give it a try. I will take some pictures of my progress to date and then keep it going. Might be a while until it is complete as I don't get to spend as much time as I would like out in the garage



Just take pics and post your progress.

Al


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## montybz (Dec 28, 2018)

*NEWBY buiding bench*

I just ran across a 6 1/2" x 18" laminated beam used in home building and got it for free and I'm wondering... certainly heavy enough ( I can't lift it) but is 6 1/2" TOO thick? Will bench dogs or a holdfast even work in a thickness like that? I'll probably takeoff a half inch or so to flatten, should I take off more? Is this even feasible? I like it because free is cheap, and I don't have a lot of spare change.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Tom_in_PA said:


> I got a Veritas double screw vise for the face vise. I will be glueing an additional piece on the bottom of the bench for the the faceplate. I got a generic single screw vise that I am going to use as the tail vise. I am making my version of Robert Lang's 21st Century workbench.


Tom, I made his bench from oak, and have used it since 2001. The tool trays centered in the bench have never been an issue, and in fact because they can be removed/slid they allow clamps to be used in center portion of the bench, which I find handy from time to time. One thing I did differently on my bench was I used no bolts in the legs...instead used wedges to secure the cross braces, both upper and lower. I made mine 5' in length. The face vice I chose was a shop fox quick release 9" vice. I also added a face vice for a tail vice. I attached each top using four 1/4" threaded inserts on the underside. I finished it with the traditional boiled linseed/turpentine/bees wax. The bench is extremely solid and robust. In the assembly work I used the plywood H-beams that Bob Lang recommended and found it to be a worthwhile jig to use that helped a lot, both on the build and after for other projects. I think you will be very happy with your bench. Take lots of photos and post as you make yours.


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## Roselander (Oct 30, 2016)

I used SYP construction lumber and ended up around 2-3/4". Since this was my first bench, I did not yet have a preference or woodworking "style" to build to. I am very happy with the top since holdfasts work great with it. I believe the physics will be fine for your top should you choose to use holdfasts. (I love 'em).


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

montybz said:


> I just ran across a 6 1/2" x 18" laminated beam used in home building and got it for free and I'm wondering... certainly heavy enough ( I can't lift it) but is 6 1/2" TOO thick? Will bench dogs or a holdfast even work in a thickness like that? I'll probably takeoff a half inch or so to flatten, should I take off more? Is this even feasible? I like it because free is cheap, and I don't have a lot of spare change.


No...6.5" is not too thick at all!!!...Great choice!!!

Yes...but it depends on the holdfasts and dogs work on any thickness...

No...I would not recommend taking off any more at all...just flatten it as minimally as possible...

It will need a robust apron and leg assembly but you can do that with inexpensive green lumber from a local mill...

*More detail if you want it...
*
There is a great deal of debate, as you have noted, on this topic...and 3" is a bare minimum in the traditional tool use circles and shops I frequent myself...with 4" being preferred as a minimum...

I personally see work benches almost like "shoes" they have to fit the foot...and benches have to fit your wants and needs...

I have and love tradtional workbench myself...From "Roman Style" all the way to "Shaving Horse" styles and everything in between. On this New Years "to-do List" is quite a few of them to be made...

I see many today as a variation (for the most part) of the classic traditional European workbenches like the Roubo. 

I do recommend 4" to those that ask as the bare minimum...*but again its a personal choice*...for sure and I don't know how you work, what styles you prefer and/or how much of it you plan on doing...???...For example when I get into the "Asian Stuff" I often get into, I'm sitting on the floor with crossed legs and working off a clamping stump style bench and or "planing beam" which again starts at 4" square and goes up from there...

I don't think I have ever built a workbench thinner than 4" myself (not to be confused with a "worktable" for a shop which starts at 2" in thickness and goes up to 3".)...and...I prefer (as we will be building this year) those that are 6" to 12" thick...!!! The mass is wonderful for all manner of work that we do...and could be looked at as a mixed medium bench for not only stone work, and blacksmithing but heavy wood working as well...

I can share that any that I know of that have take the time to build a contemporary version of a massive traditional work bench have never shared any negative perspectives about them at all...only positive.

I would also note that these thicker versions last generations, can be resurface and hold a great deal of "resale value" even out of the workshop and into the boutique market and culinary arts arena as food prep surfaces should you ever care to sell it and/or build another even more specifically tailored to how you work...

As for filling the checks and voids that can develop in some heavy timber...there are countless creative and artful ways to do that which also typically are much easier and more enduring than more modern approaches. I offer "Kintsugi 金継ぎ" as something to consider in ways of thinking about and methods for filling those voids. The attached link is just a tip of the "iceberg" for creative (and easy) ways of doing such work. We actually build our bench and tables with only...green lumber...so expect such augmentation over the first few seasons of use...

Love to see pictures of your final choice for the Workbench...:grin:


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I used 2x6s, construction lumber, and ripped off the rounded edges, so it is a tad over 5" thick. I left it at 8' long (approximately, after cleaning up the ends), and 24" wide. The thing is a beast, and weighs about 350lbs. That said, the wood is soft, and mars easily. But it is as stable as you can get, and doesn't budge or rake even a little.

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/roubo-bench-build-172394/


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## montybz (Dec 28, 2018)

Wow, great reply and good advice. Thanks so much. I can't wait to get to work on it, chomping at the bit. Take care


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

For those of you that want a traditional workbench with a what I call a really thick top, like 3" or more, I can understand it if you want it "just because...." That's great.

My question is .....do some of you really feel a 'need' for such a bench? If so, what kind of woodworking do you do. Just curious.


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

For hand planing, chopping mortises, sawing dovetails, and such, having a bench that doesn’t budge at all is, to me, almost a necessity. 

At 22” wide x 90” long x 4” thick with a front coffin vise, an end vise & plenty of dog/holdfast holes I have yet to find a clamping situation I could not solve.










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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Free Standing Base?*

Is your base free standing with the top resting on it and do you have rails on the base with slots to affix the top?


I just noticed something between the end legs, are they threaded rods?


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Tony B said:


> For those of you that want a traditional workbench with a what I call a really thick top, like 3" or more, I can understand it if you want it "just because...." That's great.
> 
> My question is .....do some of you really feel a 'need' for such a bench? If so, what kind of woodworking do you do. Just curious.


Me, personally ... 100% hand tools, with the exception of a drill.


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

Tony B said:


> Is your base free standing with the top resting on it and do you have rails on the base with slots to affix the top?
> 
> 
> I just noticed something between the end legs, are they threaded rods?




Tony, if you’re referring to my bench, the top is affixed to each leg with a drawbored mortise & tenon.







The pegs are oak. No glue in the joints. 

What you notice in the legs are holdfasts stuck through for storage when not in use. 

The only slot is in the underside of the top. It runs lengthwise along the top so that the deadman can slide to where it is needed.










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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*WesTex*

Thanks for taking the time to explain. 

So as a reward (LOL), I have a few more questions.... for now anyway.

1). Given that you top is almost 2' wide, it has the potential of almost 1/4" total expansion/contraction throughout the seasons. Have you accounted for that in you leg design or is your shop climate controlled?

2). The top being of pine which is relatively soft, does that give concern about bumps and bruises?

3). Is the top itself held together by adhesives alone or are there screws, bolts, threaded rods etc hidden under the surface?

BTW, it is certainly a good looking bench and I am sure you are very proud.

Tony B


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

Tony B said:


> Thanks for taking the time to explain.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




1). No allowance made for expansion. No problems so far. I pretty much followed Chris Schwarz’s instructions in his book, & he said that expansion/contraction wouldn’t be a problem. 
Having said that, my grouch cave is climate controlled with a central HVAC unit. 

2). The top is SYP. Janka hardness is around 870. Cherry is about 950, walnut is 1010, and soft maple is 950, to give you a comparison. The bench is around 4-5 yrs old now & obviously harder than when new. It dents & scratches as all wood benches that are used will, but I don’t abuse it. Now & then I hit it with another coat of Watco Danish Oil. It seems to help protect it without being slippery. 

3). No hardware in the top. I ripped 2 x 12’s & 2 x 10’s (couldn’t get enough decent 2 x 12’s), then jointed & planed the boards to the desired size. Using Titebond Extend, I glued the top in 3 sections. After planing each section I glued two together, then the third. I always left each glue up in clamps at least 4 hours, & usually overnight. 

The only hardware in the bench at all is that which was necessary to mount the vises. 

Thanks for the compliment on the bench, I appreciate it. 



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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Thanks again for answering my questions. 

In the past, I have always made my work bench tops using a double layer of 3/4" ply (Glued) and mounted on a frame with 2x6 top rails, 2x4 lower rails and 4x4 legs. They served me well. I hammer on them, temporarily screw things down on them, stand on them etc. Anyway, thanks fr the info. If I ever have a shop again, I will make one similar to yours.

Have a great holiday season

Tony B


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

You’re welcome. 
I feel that whatever bench suits the work & the worker is the right bench. 
I hammer on mine occasionally but usually work with mallets. My ceiling is to low for me to stand on my bench, but I do sit on it sometimes. 
With all the clamping options it provides I’ve never had a need to screw or nail anything to it. 

May you & yours also have a happy new year!


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

The height of my bench was determined by the "Fist Method"...I have arms at my side (against my legs), make a fist. From my knuckles to the floor is my bench height. For hand work, that height works well for me, and also works well when sitting on a stool. I have never had back pain (which used to occur on a taller bench), and keeps the bench height lower than my table saw in my shop.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

*For Tony B (and any interested in my blather...LOL!!!)*

Hi Tony...Here's my 2¢ for what it's worth...



Tony B said:


> For those of you that want a traditional workbench...My question is .....do some of you really feel a 'need' for such a bench? If so, what kind of woodworking do you do. Just curious.


Whatever the motivation, and whether novice to the crafts or seasoned professional, you really can't do proper (and I don't mean "right or wrong") traditional woodworking if you don't have the largest bench possible for your work...

To be clear, this is within context of style...not "right or wrong"... as an example, within Japanese wood craft the work is done on a 削り台 (Kezuri-dai - planing beam) which again, is much heavier than what many modern woodworkers here in America are building...





































Small work version for sitting on floor to work...yet note the robust nature of this small bench!!!











Tony B said:


> ...I have always made my work bench tops using a double layer of 3/4" ply (Glued) and mounted on a frame with 2x6 top rails, 2x4 lower rails and 4x4 legs. They served me well...


By common standard (speaking from a global perspective that is...) what you just described is a..."Work Table"...and not a..."Work Bench"... within the context of what they are intended for comparatively...

By no means is this a hard and fast standard, but just one based on direct observation in 100's (perhaps 1000's) of shops, Mills, museums and the like, I have seen within several different disciplines from Ceramics to Blacksmith and of course Woodworking...

I think this is a very common confusion for many when this topic is discussed and the question of "top thickness" comes into question...



Tony B said:


> ...1). Given that you top is almost 2' wide, it has the potential of almost 1/4" total expansion/contraction throughout the seasons. Have you accounted for that in you leg design or is your shop climate controlled? ...


I know this query was "aimed" elsewhere Tony, but I thought I would expand on it, if you don't mind...

Width isn't an issue nor is location germane...per se. Typically (at least in traditional benches and the one we design and build) they are made from freshly felled trees. We just split the trunk in half and hew to desired dimension. So these are as green as they come and movement is to be anticipated, which speaks to the large disconnect in "modern woodworking" where reading the grain and understanding wood movement isn't as well understood as it once was. I would also not that traditional benches are held together strictly by joinery and most can be (and often are to move the bloody heavy things...LOL) taken apart to move...



Tony B said:


> ...2). The top being of pine which is relatively soft, does that give concern about bumps and bruises? ...


Yes...many made of soft wood (to save weight) do get dinged up a lot...but that does really matter much, and every year or two we break out the "big boy" power planer and resurface it. Some do it by hand, which is fine, while others are now using a router to resurface them. We use a 300 wide power push plane to do the heavy removal (few millimeters in one swipe) and then finish with a smoothing plane...Jobs done in one cup of coffee...

Hope that all was of some use to you...

j


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## Roselander (Oct 30, 2016)

*My Hybrid Bench*



Tom_in_PA said:


> The tool trays in the middle are removable and can actually be flipped upside down make it a flat top. I like the idea for a number of different reasons or at least in theory at least.



Tool well boxes - an idea that I "borrowed" from Bob Lang when I built my bench. On another bench note - I am not sure if this makes no sense to anyone but me but I've seen advice in print so many times that you should "build a bench to suit your style" as well as "the first thing you need is a good sturdy workbench". How do have a style just starting? It seems this advice requires a bench now and another once you've refined/developed your style. Not only did I borrow Bob Lang's removable/flippable tool tray box idea (and love it so far), but I designed my hybrid bench to mimick Paul Sellers' "English" workbench on one side (deep upper apron to stabilize legs) and a Roubo-like bench on the other side (sliding deadman, bottom runner, legs mortised through the top). I only plan to do this once folks, and I am not quickly developing a "style". I subscribe to the hybrid woodworker school of thought where machines are used for prepping stock and hand tools come in where appropriate, e.g. making and fitting joints.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Thanks for the info. It is enlightening. 
The link below is what I considered a workbench. It was sturdy enough for what I needed probably because I don't do much in the way of hand tools. This photo was taken right after i assembled it. Holes were then drilled and bench dogs were turned on my lathe
Most of my work was usually done on 4' x 8' work tables which were also used for assembly.

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/picture.php?albumid=831&pictureid=6037

On your last photo. i noticed what appear to be 'stops' on that bench. I cant remember the name of what I used, age is catching up to me. Word recall is terrible. I know you know what it is. Its a rectangular piece of plywood with an added narrow strip of wood along the bottom of one edge and another along the top edge of the other end. It sis laid flat on the work bench with the bottom edge on one end to hold it in place and the top edge is to prevent your work piece from moving. I know as soon as I send this message, the name will come to mind. 

It's called a bench hook, I just remembered

Anyway, thanks again for taking the time to explain.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Bench Hook*

I found some old photos. I think in these photos, the bench hook was placed on top of my table saw outfeed table
It is quite versatile and I had several sizes and shapes. Makes for a great scrap plywood 20 minute project. Most of the 20 minutes are spent looking for scraps.
To use, just lay it on edge of work surface - does not ordinarily need to be held in place. Actually,, I never clamped it or otherwise used anything to hold it in place.

Speaking of scraps, the mallet was from a scrap piece of 4x4 I turned on the lathe.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

It''s nice to see all the pride in all your workbenches because a workbench is a personal item that becomes dear to us as we accomplish our projects. There are different styles and assembly methods and we all choose what is best for our own personal use. But some of the "enthusiasm" concerning the thickness of a bench is almost demeaning to me because my workbench simply 2-1/2 inches thick and it works great. I've made many picture frames, dressers, kitchen table, desks and family heirlooms on it. It does everything any workbench can do and the cost is about $300. 



A workbench needs to provide a flat and stable surface (substructure is more important then table thickness). Anything beyond the basics are added features. For instance dog holes are a staple too the European style benches but not necessary for a bench. I once saw a post from a woodworker in Tenn who had a "L" for a workbench. He would flip it and clamp it to his railing because that is all he had.


Here is my bench...


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Nice post and I think the tracks are a great idea.


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