# Pine Plank Ceiling



## Clive Driscoll (Mar 19, 2009)

I just installed a tounge and groove pine plank ceiling in one of the rooms in my house, with pine crown molding as well. This was replacing a dryall popcorn ceiling. This was my first attempt and it turned out great. Some small errors that probably only I notice, lol

Anyway, I want to do the same in a different room in my house, this time a much bigger room. This is no problem, except I thought maybe I could spice it up. Instead of just running the planks across the ceiling joists in a straight line, I thought maybe I could do a diagonal design. However, then I found the attached picture of a deck a guy on this forum did, and thought maybe I could attempt something like that but on my ceiling. (see attached photo)

I am worried though that the wood may expand or retract and make a design like this look bad??? Also I think I would have to put can/recessed lights not in the middle of the design but around it somehow. Anyone have any thoughts or warnings about this idea??? Thanks


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Clive,
Depends on your tastes. I am not big on running things angles on the ceiling. Walls look cool, but I don't care for ceiling run that way. Just my tastes though. Sometimes when you get things to busy, it looks liked you tried to force the issue. Is this larger ceiling flat or raised (vaulted, cathedral)? 
Mike Hawkins


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hey Clive,

We are getting ready to do the exact same thing with our cabin up north. I don't want to hijack your thread here. May I shoot you a quick PM to ask a couple of questions?

Thanks,
Tom


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## Clive Driscoll (Mar 19, 2009)

This is a straight ceiling, not vaulted. Tom, feel free to ask me any questions - just keep in mind I am definitely a beginner who has only done one ceiling in a 10x10' room! I will say the hardest part was doing the "demo" - taking out the existing ceiling, once I had that all off and clean, then installing the planks was pretty quick and easy. Clive


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## Tweegs (Sep 8, 2007)

Unless you encase every board in epoxy, the wood will expand and contract with seasonal changes in humidity. As long as you understand this and make allowances for the movement, putting something like that deck on your ceiling shouldn’t be a problem.

And I agree with Firehawk’s caution about making it too busy. You don’t want the ceiling to become the focal point of the room, otherwise your guest will leave with a stiff neck. :laughing:

BTW, I don’t know who is responsible for making that fine looking deck, but Mama got one look at those planters and put them on my to do list.

Thanks guys….grrrrrr :laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Clive Driscoll said:


> This is a straight ceiling, not vaulted. Tom, feel free to ask me any questions - just keep in mind I am definitely a beginner who has only done one ceiling in a 10x10' room! I will say the hardest part was doing the "demo" - taking out the existing ceiling, once I had that all off and clean, then installing the planks was pretty quick and easy. Clive


Thanks Clive.....I just sent you a PM with a couple questions.....


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

For interior use, there is usually not a significant swing in temperature or humidity to make expansion or contraction an issue, if you let the stock acclimate to the environment. The picture below is a medical practice waiting room, and I used T&G throughout without any issues.
.


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## pmaru77 (Apr 14, 2009)

Has anyone tried floor wood for ceilings? I noticed on LUmb Liquid. you can get wood for less than a dollar a sq. I have a Baja cabin that I was thinking of sealing up to keep the hot air up and out. I think the big problem would be what lengths they give you.


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## gregL (Feb 1, 2009)

I can't imagine a diagonal design expanding or contracting inside any more than a straight design. Besides, look at how the diagonal design you pictures looks good in an outside environment. I installed a 3/8" cypress tongue & grooved wall in my office above my workshop and it still looks the same after a year. I also installed four walls of 3/8" cypress tongue & groove in the sunroom of my house over 2 years ago and it still looks great even with much more sun exposure than the office wall. The key is to get the wood acclimated to the room for about 2 weeks before install.


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## sausagefingers (Oct 1, 2008)

Like everyone said, let the wood acclimate to the room for a while. Especially if you might be expecting any kind of weather change. Here in Oklahoma I've had HUGE problems with planked ceiling moving. The wood might have been sitting in in the 70 degree room for a month, but as soon as I'm done with the install it will rain for a week, cold snap will hit, heaters come on and dry out the wood in a day making everything move. But I haven't had too much of a problem with tongue and groove with moving, or even a lap siding isn't too bad, it's mostly the solid planks I've always had move on me. Or annoying home owners who don't understand that the heater REALLY does need to stay on in the winter while we're working or their paneling and planked ceiling is going to move around then subsequently bitch about it. hahaha.


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