# Alternative methods-project #2-slant side jewellery box



## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Hey there guys. Came home from work today and headed out to the shop to start the second alternative methods challenge project. I hope all of your projects are going well and that you guys will be posting some photos really soon. As you know, I accepted the challenge to complete all 3 projects, but for this one, I chose to do the slanted side jewellery box. I will do the machinest chest after this one is completed. Either way, here goes nothing........


After viewing the photo of this project, I decided that I would like to make it in the negative that is shown in the picture. In other words, I wanted the box to be light coloured and the splines and the lid to be dark. I chose (you probably already see this coming) maple and walnut as my woods of choice. I picked up a piece of 8/4 rough sawn maple from the rack and after studying the parts list for the box, I placed a line at the 12" mark.









I then headed over to the miter saw, to hack off the 12" piece. I chose the measurement of 12", because the longest piece for the box sides, is 9" and I thought that I would give myself a little bit of play room.










After cutting off the stock that I needed, I verified that my jointer fence was 90 degrees to my table and started in at face jointing the piece of maple.

















Once the surface of the maple was jointed, I used my 12" straight edge to check side to side, end to end, and corner to corner for flatness. Once I was satisfied with this, I moved on.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Heading back to the jointer, I edge jointed the maple stock. Be sure to use hearing and eye protection here guys. Don't be a tough guy, use push pads and NOT your hands.










I then verified that the jointed edge was 90 degrees to our previously jointed surface. This is an important step, because if you don't have a 90 degree straight reference at this point, everything you do from here on in will be off by whatever your jointed edge is off. A little extra checking here saves a lot of hassle later on.









I then headed over to the table saw and installed my ripping blade. Using my digital gauge, I checked that the blade was square to the table.









I then ripped the previously jointed stock into 2 5/8" blocks. This measurement will become the height of our box sides, as per the specs of the layout drawing.









From this point, I set my table saw's fence to 3/4" and proceded to rip the 2 5/8" blocks into 3/4" thicknesses. You can see the 4 pieces here and they will become my box sides. I kind of like the imperfections and the matching grains on the pieces on the left, so they will become the sides of my box, while the other 2 pieces will become the front and back.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then installed my fine cross cutting blade and ensured that it was square to the table.









Using my miter gauge, I started with the 2 side pieces, marked B and squared off one end of each of the boards. I then mitered the opposite end, at the required measurement and placed them aside. From there, I squared of one end of the back piece marked C and cut it to the appropriate measurement. And finally, I mitered one end of the front piece marked A, and mitered its opposite end at the listed measurement. Here, we can see all pieces cut and ready for the next step. You might note the arrow. I marked an arrow on each piece to point to the top of the box. Just a little helper to keep pieces oriented in the right direction.









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I then installed my dado blade in my table saw, with a width of 1/4" and adjusted it to a height of 3/16". I used my set up blocks for this by stacking my 1/8" and my 1/16" blocks on top of each other, then using my 1/4" block as a stop, I raised the blade until it hit the stop as shown here in the picture. 








I then set my table saw fence at 1/2" to match the 1/2" of material that is called for before the edge of the dado in the layout drawing.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Here, we can see all 4 pieces, with the dados cut in the lower end of the box sides.










I then installed my dado blade in the largest configuration that I could, using all chippers, and set the height to 3/16" using the method that I outlined earlier.










I then set my fence, so that the right edge of the dado blade would strike the stock at 3/8" down from the top of the box sides. Note the arrow helping me to keep the wood oriented in the correct position.









I then ran the front and 2 side pieces through the saw to provide me with the 3/8" rabbet at the top of the box, as required by the drawings. 









Leaving my dado blade set up as it was, I used my miter fence and set the stop so that the left edge of the dado blade would strike the stock at 3/4" in from the end of the board.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then ran both sides of the box through the dado set up to give me the 3/4" rabbet cut that was required by the drawings.










Time for a dry fit guys. Using my miter frame clamp, I dry clamped the box together to check for square and tightness of joints. I'm happy to say that everything was bang on.









You may have noticed, that up until now, I haven't done much with the piece for the back of the box. At this point in time, it is still 2 5/8" wide. You can see by the plans, that the back piece should be 2 1/4" wide. At this point, I set my fence at the 2 1/4" mark, and using my ripping blade, I trimmed the back piece to size.









Time for another dry fit in the clamp. Once again, everything is A-okay.










It's now time to rout the recess in the front of the box. I used a 1/2" piece of scrap that I had, and using my scroll saw, I cut out an opening that was 1/8" bigger all around than what I wanted my routed recess to be.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Here, we can see my template that I cut out. The extra 1/8" on all sides is enough to allow for a 1/2" bushing in my hand held trim router.










I then used some C-clamps to attach the template to the front of the box. I used another scrap on the back side to prevent the clamps from marring the wood. I also made sure that the template was centered left to right on the front of the drawer. This whole assembly was securely clamped into my vise, to make sure that it was going nowhere. I then proceded to rout the recess.









Here we can see the recess routed out. I did experience a little burning with the 1/4" straight bit that I used, but it is nothing that a little sanding wont take out. By tomorrow, these burn marks will be gone.









Well guys, that is as far as I got for tonight. I could have done more, but I had to leave some time for shop housekeeping and I also had to leave some time to post this tutorial. Tomorrow is another day and I'm looking forward to continuing this project. A fun one so far.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

You are a machine man! I have to quibble with the use of set-up blocks. The last thing I needed was another tool on my wish list. Thanks a lot! :no::yes:

Can't wait to see how it comes out!


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## ArmedFerret (Aug 24, 2011)

Goodness, do you ever take a break? Right into the next one!

chalk up another subscription. Should make the week go by that much more quickly!


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

This should prove interesting. One box built "on the fly" and another built to plan...

Its looking good guy... can't wait to see the end product.


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## ArmedFerret (Aug 24, 2011)

All righty. Top Gear's on the telly, have a delicious bit of kettle corn at the ready, and patiently awaiting the next installment. :thumbsup:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

ArmedFerret said:


> All righty. Top Gear's on the telly, have a delicious bit of kettle corn at the ready, and patiently awaiting the next installment. :thumbsup:


 

Wait no longer!!! Here we go.

I needed to mill some wood for the bottom of the box. I wanted the bottom to be walnut and I just happened to have an off cut of walnut that would plane down to the perfect size, so I set up my planer and planed the walnut down to a thickness of 1/4".









After planing, I set up my miter gauge and squared off one end. I then set my stop to the correct distance for the length of the bottom. I then set up my fence to rip the width measurement.









A quick test fit showed that everthing was fitting beautifully.










I then glued and clamped the box together, and cleaned up the squeeze out with Q-tips and water. Once it was all cleaned up, I set the box aside.










I decided that while I was waiting for the box to dry, I would mill the wood for the lid. I checked my scrap pile and had nothing suitable so I had to pull down a 8/4 board of walnut from the rack. I marked off a 12" piece.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I set up the miter saw and cut off the 12" piece.









I then headed to the jointer. I made sure that the fence was square to the table and face jointed the board. I then checked to be sure that the board was flat and then from there, I edge jointed the board. From there, I checked that the two jointed side were 90 degrees to each other. Once I was happy with that, I moved on.









I set up my bandsaw for resaw. Installing my home made resaw fence and setting it to allow 3/16" more material than I required. I leave 3/16" extra for planing and blade wander. I also checked, as you can see here in the photo, that the blade was square to the table, and that my home made fence was also square.









I then placed the jointed face against the fence, and the jointed edge against the table and ran the board through the saw to end up with a piece of walnut that measured 3/16" thicker than I required.









I then set up the planer and dust seperator and got ready to plane the board. You might notice that I have a ground wire attached with an alligator clip to the side of my router stand. This ground wire runs through the plastic piping of my collector and connects to the metal frame of the dust collector. The purpose of the ground wire is to dissipate the static electricity build up when pulling wood shavings through a plastic pipe. Works great.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

We can see here that the board is 1/2" thick which is what the plans call for to cut the lid.









I then set up my miter gauge and squared off the 1/2" board. I also set up my stop and cut the board to the requried length listed in the plans. I set up my fence, and ripped the board to 1/4" larger than the required width. I didn't want to cut the board to its final width until I was further along in the process. I checked the board for fit in the box and was happy with the result.









It was at this point, that I noticed my goof up.








As you can see in this photo of the plans, the routed recess continues on through the 3/8" rabbet cut. 








However, my front face of the box does not have this cut. I somehow goofed up. Time to fix it.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I used one of my flush cut saws and cut vertically along the edge of the recess, stopping at the edge of the rabbet cut.










Here we can see the cuts on either side of the routed recess.









I then used my 1/2" chisel, and carefully chiseled the waste area away.










And viola!!! Problem fixed.










It's now time to adress the burning caused by the 1/4" straight bit. My weapon of choice for this was my dremel tool, with a 1/4" sanding drum installed in it. I ran the dremel at low speed and carefully sanded the burn marks out of the recess.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Burns in the recess? What burns in the recess? And now, it's time to move on to cutting the spline slots.









The spline slots in the lower end of the box are supposed to be 7/8" deep, so I set my ripping blade to a height of 7/8". 








The plans also call for the spline slots to be located 3/4" above the bottom of the box. So I set my fence to reflect this measurement, clamped my box in my spline cutting jig and cut all 4 lower spline slots.









I then set my blade height at 5/8", which coincides with the listed depth of the upper spline slots.









The plans also call for the upper splines to be 3/4" below the top edge of the box. It is for this reason, that we can just use our spline jig with the fence at the same setting as when we cut the lower spline slots. Clamping the box in the jig, I cut all 4 of the upper spline slots. If everything is right in the world, you should have something that looks like this.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

It is now time to cut the splines needed for this particular project. I'm not going to go through the procedure that I used to cut the splines because I laid it out pretty thoroughly in the last Alternative Methods Challenge. I had left my combination square set at the measurement for the splines of my last project, and considering that I used the same blade to cut the slots, cutting these splines was quick and easy. If you missed the set up process, you can find it in the thread Alternative Methods Challenge-3 tier box. After setting up my saw, I cut the required splines.









After dry fitting all of the splines, I glued each one in place and cleaned up all squeeze out.









I then proceded to mark out my box's feet on some 1/8" thick pieces of walnut, using the layout drawing in the plans and various squares.










What would any of Kenbo's projects be, without the power of the almighty scroll saw. This is what I used to cut out all 4 of the feet for the box. I used a blade that was a little more coarse than I needed for a little extra control in cutting the straight lines.










Sometimes, when clamping things like these feet, they can have a tendancy to slide around before they are set. It is for this reason, that I did a dry run with each foot, using a 45 degree saddle square clamped to the side of the box as a reference. Once I was happy with the placement of the foot, I applied glue and clamped it down, using the saddle square as the bracing edge. No sliding and each foot was alligned exactly where I wanted it.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

And this is where we are at now. Everything is clamped and waiting for the next step. We're in the home stretch now guys.









I have plans tomorrow night with some good friends, so unfortunately, this build will have to wait until Friday night before I can continue. I'm hoping for completion of the project on that night and then I will move on to the 3rd and final project of the challenge on Saturday. I hope you guys are enjoying this thread.
If you have any questions at all, feel free to ask.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

You're looking good... hope mine looks half as nice when its done..


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## Warnock (Apr 4, 2011)

Ahh, once more tis a pleasure to read, look, and follow your posting Kenbo. Enjoy this evening with friends and will look forward to your continuation on Friday.

Most excellent detail in your tutorial, I continue to learn, thank you. 

I just noticed something Ken, your piece appears to be vertical, whereas the project states slant sided box, what am I missing? Is there a step yet to come to arrive at the slant sides? 

So little time, so much to learn.


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## ArmedFerret (Aug 24, 2011)

Warnock said:


> I just noticed something Ken, your piece appears to be vertical, whereas the project states slant sided box, what am I missing? Is there a step yet to come to arrive at the slant sides?


 
Another member has a build on the same box; while I can't speak for Ken's methods, that individual mitered the box sides after it was together.


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## Warnock (Apr 4, 2011)

Thanks, looking forward to that, I guess I missed the other post. Will have to see if I can locate that one.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*not mitered, beveled*



ArmedFerret said:


> Another member has a build on the same box; while I can't speak for Ken's methods, that individual *mitered* the box sides after it was together.


I had to really think about that one, then I realized you meant beveled. :laughing: bill


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## ArmedFerret (Aug 24, 2011)

Yeah, I posted it just before going in to work (still quite sleepy) and then realized what I'd posted about 5 minutes after getting into my office. Facepalmed almost instantly hehe. Can't have my phone inside, can't get on the internet from inside...figured what the heck, just go with it. Someone will figure it out lol.


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## UKfan (Nov 16, 2010)

Very good step by step, thanks Kenbo


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

Very impressive! And very nice recovery! Well done.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I'm back. Had a good time out with the boys last night for dinner and some billiards afterward. I really suck at billiards, but I like to play. Today, however, I finished up at work and headed into the shop. The first step that I had to do, was to remove the project from the clamps and run it through the bandsaw to cut the splines and the feet off flush, or as close to flush as possible with the box.










I then gave the box a sanding to a grit of 120 to make sure that the splines and feet were flush with the box. This is what we have so far.










Using my digital angle meter, I set my table saw blade to an angle of 8 degrees, as shown in the plans. The nice thing about using a digital meter like this, is that repeatable results are easy as can be.









I think it was Johnny who said not to trust the gauge on the saw because his was way out. I decided to check mine against the digital one. The angle of the photo is a little off, but I can assure you, that this puppy was bang on 8 degrees. I like it when my tools are properly adjusted. With that being said, I think the only times I have looked at this gauge is when I calibrate my saw, and today. I'd rather use my digital.










I then proceded to set up my miter gauge, and cut the bevels on all sides of the box. The stop on the miter gauge really helps to get perfect results.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then carried on, to cut the back edge of the lid to the same 8 degree angle as the box sides. 









I then used my digital meter, to reset my ripping blade to 90 degrees to the table. I can't tell you how much I love this gauge or how much I use it. It's one of my best friends in the shop.









If you remember from earlier, I didn't cut my final size for the lid, because I wasn't sure what the final dimensions of the box were going to be. I measured from the inside edge of the front rabbet, to the back edge of the box and saw that it was 5 9/16". I then subtracted 1/16" to match the gap 1/16" gap at the sides of the lid and set my saw fence to 5 1/2". I then places my bevelled edge against the fence and ripped the lid to its final dimension.









After testing for fit, this is what we have.










I then used some scrap 3/8" thick maple, and cut a piece that was 1/2" X 2 1/4" for the handle. I made sure that it was nicely centered on the front of the lid and glued and clamped it in place.









I hit a bit of a wall at that point, for two reasons. 

One...........the hinges that I bought this afternoon were the wrong size and I now need to head out and get some more hinges tonight so that I can finish the lid.

and

Two.............my wife phoned me to let me know that dinner was almost ready and I should consider coming inside.

So on that note, I'm going to go and eat, and get some hinges and hopefully, I will be posting some more results soon.


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## kpo101 (Aug 5, 2011)

Great job so for Kenbo, Are you going to put the music box in it?


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

kpo101 said:


> Great job so for Kenbo, Are you going to put the music box in it?


 
I wanted to put the music box in it, but can't find a source locally for the music box, so it looks like this one will just be a small jewellery box without the music.



Now, where was I? 

I marked off the lines for the placement of the hinges using a square. The blade on my square is 1" wide, so by butting the blade of the square against the walls of the box, I was able to easily get the hinges equal distances away from the edge of the box.









Here we can see the lines, ready for a test fit of the hinges.









I then held the hinges up to the box to test their fit between the lines. Being satified with the fit, I moved on.










I then used my square and my marking knife to score the top edge of the box to avoid tear out.









From there, I marked the depth of my mortise and prepared my hand held router with a 1/4" staight bit.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then place a board across my box for a router support, and set the depth of my bit to coincide with the mortise depth that I marked earlier.









Using a 1/2" chisel sharpened to "stupid sharp" mode, I cleaned up any imperfections in the mortise.









Here we can see the mortises, routed and ready to accept the hinges.










I carefully marked the centers of each hinge hole, and drilled a 1/16" pilot hole. From there, I mounted the hinges onto the body of the box.









It's sometimes difficult to mark out hinges or hinge positions when the hinge itself is inside of a box and out of your line of vision. In this case, I used some double sided carpet tape to mount the lid to the hinge and test for fit. The tape allows easy repositioning of the lid until you are happy with the mounting position. Once happy, you can easily mark the centers with an awl, right through the tape.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

And with that, we are done. With the exception of the finish, this box is complete. As I said earlier, I don't have a local source for the music box movement and I'm not about to start ordering parts on line. I'm sure the recipient of this box will love it with or without the music box. 
I hope you guys have enjoyed following this thread. I've really enjoyed build this box and on that note, tomorrow I will be starting to document the third and final project in the alternative methods challenge. Thanks again for the kind words, they are appreciated greatly.
















I will be certain to post photos when the finish has been applied and this project is ready for gift giving.
Ken


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Okay, it's official, Ken. Now you're just showing off. I just got home tonight and you've already finished two of the challenge projects. Great job on the write ups too!


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

frankp said:


> Okay, it's official, Ken. Now you're just showing off. I just got home tonight and you've already finished two of the challenge projects. Great job on the write ups too!


 
Not bad for a guy that has a full time, 8 hour a day job as well eh Frank. :laughing:


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## lawrence (Nov 14, 2009)

Kenbo said:


> Not bad for a guy that has a full time, 8 hour a day job as well eh Frank. :laughing:


 
Great going on this and as always great documenting... gonna try to get back started myself.....had a lil emergency I had to deal with


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Very nice box and an excellent documentation. What finish will you use? Will you have any finish on the inside? What would you say are the major alternative methods you have used compared to the original plan?

BTW, you have almost talked me into buying a tilt box. Now all I have to do is to convince the family banker of the necessety of it.....


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words guys.
Lawrence, I hope you emergency worked out and that everything is okay. I'm looking forward to seeing your machinest chest come together.


Longknife, I'm undecided on the finish for now, but once I decide, I will be sure to post it. I'm probably going to go with a sealer and a wipe on poly. It seems to be one of my favourite finishes for projects like this. As far as the alternative methods, I'm not sure, because I haven't been looking at the plans but I can think of a few. I know that the rabbet joints and dados were done with the router table in the original plans and I did all of them with the table saw and a dado blade. As well, I had to use hand tools to complete the finger recess for the box, as I messed up and wasn't following the plans. :huh: I would have to check the plans to see if there is anything else that I did differently.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*alternate ?*



Kenbo said:


> Thanks for the kind words guys.
> Lawrence, I hope you emergency worked out and that everything is okay. I'm looking forward to seeing your machinest chest come together.
> 
> 
> Longknife, I'm undecided on the finish for now, but once I decide, I will be sure to post it. I'm probably going to go with a sealer and a wipe on poly. It seems to be one of my favourite finishes for projects like this. As far as the alternative methods, I'm not sure, because I haven't been looking at the plans but I can think of a few. I know that the rabbet joints and dados were done with the router table in the original plans and I did all of them with the table saw and a dado blade.* As well, I had to use hand tools to complete the finger recess for the box, as I messed up and wasn't following the plans*. :huh: I would have to check the plans to see if there is anything else that I did differently.


Just pokin' my nose in here and saying Great Job :thumbsup: as usual, but wasn't the whole purpose of this thread to see what methods various folks use to simply "execute" the plans, rather than to follow the plans exactly in which case all the projects would be made identically. I even think a deviation from the "plans" would be welcome to see if someone had come up with a better/easier way based on their tool or skill limitations or possibly a better looking way?  Maybe I misunderstood frankp's original concept, I donno? I'm saying this as an bystander and I've not seen the plans. :blink: bill


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Very nice as always. I love the tape trick for locating the hinges. Can't wait to see the chest.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> Just pokin' my nose in here and saying Great Job :thumbsup: as usual, but wasn't the whole purpose of this thread to see what methods various folks use to simply "execute" the plans, rather than to follow the plans exactly in which case all the projects would be made identically. I even think a deviation from the "plans" would be welcome to see if someone had come up with a better/easier way based on their tool or skill limitations or possibly a better looking way?  Maybe I misunderstood frankp's original concept, I donno? I'm saying this as an bystander and I've not seen the plans. :blink: bill


 

I never followed the plans Bill. I only used the plans for it's dimensions and design features. If I would have followed the plans, I would have never used any hand tools because the finger recess would have been as it should have been right from the start. The purpose of this challenge is to make identical projects, using the dimensions and design of the plans provided. Everyone agreed that the joinery and design features of the project were to remain the same as the plans stated. Where the alternative methods part comes into play is when we choose a method (such as using table saw joinery over router joinery) that suits us instead of following what someone else's plans state to do. I've built both projects in the challenge so far, the way that I saw fit to do so. I never followed any instructions in the plans. Once the projects were done, I looked back at the instructions and there were some things that I did the same as the plans, and some things that I did differently. Some of the guys are using hand tools to do their projects, some are using power tools and some are using a combination of both. The whole purpose of this challenge is to show that the same results can be acheived using whatever method you are comfortable with and that you don't necessarily have to be confined to what a magazine or plan instruction states as the method of choice. As far as deviation from the plans, of course it is welcome as long as the joinery and basic design elements remain the same. As is the case in Johnny's slanted side jewellery box. He started off with only a photo, and came up with his own drawings and dimensions. His project continues and is looking fantastic. Again, he is displaying that he wasn't confined to what the author of the magazine article stated was the correct way of doing things. Another part to this challenge is how you overcome any problems that you may have with the project. Such is the case with my finger recess. Because I was only going by the cut list and the exploded assembly drawing, I didn't have the instruction to tell me that the finger recess must allow for the handle of the lid to protrude out the front of the box. It is for this reason, that I needed to bring in another method to correct the problem, showing the newer guys that even when you think your project is screwed, a little patience and thought can repair almost anything. 
This is a challenge about several guys making identical projects but more importantly, it's about making identical projects the way that YOU want, not the way someone else tells you. We are documenting the process so that others might learn different methods and choose what is right for them.
As always Bill, I love your input and your "other side of the coin" approach to looking at things. I guess, in a way, you are doing your own alternative methods form of posting, and I like it that way.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Ken,

You are amazing! Two down and I'm still trying to get one done. :thumbsup: Your work continues to inspire me to better things. These last two write ups have been top notch. Well done...


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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

Ken, wow. hahaha You amaze me! Annnd not to terrible for having a full time job on the side! I do appreciate the patience and time it took to upload the photos and write-ups! 

Keep the work coming! 
Levi


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## Warnock (Apr 4, 2011)

I barely get the opportunity to comment on the excellent work portrayed in this thread and yet I see #3 is already in work.

Thanks Ken. You do follow the intent here and I appreciate learning something from you and the others taking on this challenge.

Well done sir, well done.


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Buddy... great work!


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Guys, take this build with a grain of salt. All the big American sports stars go to Canada for their HGH and steroids. It's obvious Ken is using some performance enhancing drugs as well since he is Canadian. What are you on Ken? You can tell us. 


)


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

:laughing:


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## Ledhead (Aug 3, 2009)

Another fine example of a skilled woodworker named Kenbo crafting a beautiful music (less) box. A pleasure to read. Awaiting the final pics with finish applied.


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## Mose (Dec 7, 2010)

Can't wait to see the finish applied. I'll be using your thread on the inbox for a template for my attempt to build. As always nice work.


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## desertforest (Aug 6, 2011)

very very nice. :thumbsup:

great work as usual Kenbo. 

one last question, do we get to know what use the radio flyer wagon on wall has :yes:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

desertforest said:


> very very nice. :thumbsup:
> 
> great work as usual Kenbo.
> 
> one last question, do we get to know what use the radio flyer wagon on wall has :yes:


 

:laughing: you guys do like looking around my shop don't you? :laughing: For years, my father has mentioned that, as a child, he always wanted a radio flyer wagon and for many reasons, he never got one. One year, for Christmas, my wife and I found this one and bought it for him. He loved it and for years, it sat in his shop. My father, over the past 5+ years, has lost all interest in woodworking and his shop has been dismantled. The wagon, then came to me and it hangs proudly on my wall now. That's the story.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

*The finished product*

As promised guys, I'm posting the finished product. This box has sat for a while waiting for its finish. It is now done, and will be a Christmas gift for my mother.
I give you, alternative methods challenge project #3, the slanted side jewelry box.


























Tools used:
tape measure
miter saw
tilt box digital angle meter
jointer planer
12" straight edge
various sqaures
table saw
miter fence for table saw
set up blocks
steel ruler
dado blade set
frame clamps
scroll saw
hand held router
thickness planer
band saw
digital calipers
flush cut saw
chisels
dremel tool with drum sander
height guage
combination square
45 degree saddle square
various sanders
marking knife
awl
1/4" straight bit for hand held router.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

That came out very nice. What did you use again for a finish?


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

johnnie52 said:


> That came out very nice. What did you use again for a finish?


 
Thanks Johnnie. I sealed it with some polymerized tung oil and then hit it with 4 or 5 coats of wipe on poly.


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## CasinoDuck (Jun 15, 2011)

:thumbsup:


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Looking great :thumbsup:. Your mother will love it.
BTW, what's a "radio flyer wagon"?


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Longknife said:


> BTW, what's a "radio flyer wagon"?


 
A "radio flyer wagon" is a child's wagon that was very popular quite a few years ago. I have a miniature one on my shop wall. You can see it here on the left side of the photo, right beside the bandsaw. Thanks for the kind words guys.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Now I know your secret, Ken! I know you can never have too many clamps but good grief! :laughing:


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