# Anyone convert older Craftsman Jointer to dust collection?



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I need to convert my jointer over to dust collection. It doesn’t look too hard, but I would like to have the hose on the bottom only it would be so much easier to have it on the end. I might be able to make a shoot on the bottom flowing out the side, but I was wondering if anyone has already done this.


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

You find out, you let me know. The thread I made a week or do ago got completely ignored.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

cocheseuga said:


> You find out, you let me know. The thread I made a week or do ago got completely ignored.


What was the name of the thread because i did a search before i post and didn't see anything


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/jointer-shaving-collection-36047/

I suppose I did get one response.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

I wish I could help. Mine's the older style. No cabinet and belt driven. I use a bag held in place with rare earth magnets. 
Looking at your picture, it looks like you first have to shield the motor, slanting it towards the DC hole. Then, cut the hole for the DC connection. Back side? Out feed end of the motor? Under the motor??? I use toilet flanges for applications like this.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

*Sheet Metal Dustpan Plan*

I finished the Cut-out Pattern for my Craftsman 6" Jointer Sheet Metal Dustpan to start my conversion for dust collection. 








I don’t have anybody around here to sell sheet metal except the local Heating Air companies, but they want $30 to $50 for a small piece, so I have to buy an 8” round sheet metal duct and make one out of it.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...053&langId=-1&keyword=8 in duct&storeId=10051


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*try Home depot or Ace Hdw*

The local hardware stores all have a metal bar, angle, sheet display where I'm pretty sure you can get a flat piece of 22 Ga or so 24" sq . I wouldn't like to see you work with a round stove pipe and try to keep/make it flat....:no: 
I've done a fair amount of brake forming, including 3 truck bodies, so if you were close I'd be happy to break one for you...brake one... which ever. :laughing: bill


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> The local hardware stores all have a metal bar, angle, sheet display where I'm pretty sure you can get a flat piece of 22 Ga or so 24" sq . I wouldn't like to see you work with a round stove pipe and try to keep/make it flat....:no:
> I've done a fair amount of brake forming, including 3 truck bodies, so if you were close I'd be happy to break one for you...brake one... which ever. :laughing: bill


 I just got back from Lowes and it cost $5.20 for a 24” x 8” round which is a little smaller than a 24 x 36 sheet of Sheet metal that cost $19. No thanks I’ll just buy the duct and cut off the parts I don’t need.

I did this same thing when I built my dust collection for my TS , so I do have a little experience with the round duct.

Well Bill I saw your brake and you don’t know how much I wish I lived near you. :yes:

Someday I’d like to have a brake but for now I have to rely on using angle iron clamped to plywood and of course my little seam benders. :laughing:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

*Jointer Dust Pan progress*

Cutout sheet metal and bent it into shape and ready for solder although I am thinking I could just use duct tape, but I’ll see how I feel about it when the time comes.










I tried to fit test and realized that it will not fit in from the side, so I need to remove the wheels and go in from the bottom. This is one time I wish I had a hoist. 










Before I can do any of the things mentioned above, I need to make a decision on how I’m going to mount the port. If I cut the hole close to the bottom, I’ll need to fasten something like an angle piece to secure the bottom otherwise I’ll have a low spot to collect sawdust.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I finally bought the aluminum Blast gate for the jointer and I’m trying to get it hooked up now. It would have been done already but I made a last minute design error trying to put in an extra angle in the pan to allow the sawdust to flow toward the outlet.. 

Now that extra angle is preventing my hose from connecting and I’m going to have to make something to change the Blast gate angle. I may just make an angled spacer out of wood, if my 12” band saw can make that deep of cut. 

Or I can make two pieces and join them together. Anyway I’m open to suggestions.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I think that all looks real good. I was going to mention that I would just rivet the piece together when you mentioned solder, but then noticed that you did end up using rivets. :thumbsup: I am not sure where your problem is with your connection. If the hose isn't liking the amount of flange on the blast gate, you could maybe try to find a 45 degree (street perhaps)pvc fitting that you could screw/caulk to the blast gate, and then attach the hose to that. 

That looks great though. I wouldn't worry about any small piles of dust in the corners when you start using it. They are "trapped" inside the dust shroud, and will just help funnel the rest of the dust into the hose.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

thegrgyle said:


> I think that all looks real good. I was going to mention that I would just rivet the piece together when you mentioned solder, but then noticed that you did end up using rivets. :thumbsup: I am not sure where your problem is with your connection. If the hose isn't liking the amount of flange on the blast gate, you could maybe try to find a 45 degree (street perhaps)pvc fitting that you could screw/caulk to the blast gate, and then attach the hose to that.
> 
> That looks great though. I wouldn't worry about any small piles of dust in the corners when you start using it. They are "trapped" inside the dust shroud, and will just help funnel the rest of the dust into the hose.


 Thanks Fabian, 

After thinking about it for a while I decided not solder it because there was only the front to solder and I needed a piece of heavy metal to support the Blast gate anyway. I used tape to seal it.

The problem is that the cross-section of the wheel base hit the bottom of the hose. I guess I could squeeze the hose around the support, but it’s going to be very difficult to attach the hose to the gate. Maybe I’ll temporary remove the wheel base, attach the hose, and then drop it down into the base. The hose will have a crease at the support whish will be OK as long as it don’t pull off the blast gate.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*use a 4" schedule 40, 45 degree*

It will closely fit on the blast gate and then on the hose. There are 2 types, female on both ends and female/male. You'll have to figure out which one works best, but it will take the hose up off the mobile base frame. If it's a loose fit, a few wraps of duct tape will fatten it up. If it's too tight, cut some slits all the way around to open it up and then use a hose clamp.  bill

I use the 4" flex hose, a flared quick change fitting from Rockler? and a 4" schedule 40 PVC coupler like this for a quick change from machine to machine.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

thegrgyle said:


> I am not sure where your problem is with your connection. If the hose isn't liking the amount of flange on the blast gate, you could maybe try to find a 45 degree (street perhaps)pvc fitting that you could screw/caulk to the blast gate, and then attach the hose to that.
> 
> That looks great though. I wouldn't worry about any small piles of dust in the corners when you start using it. They are "trapped" inside the dust shroud, and will just help funnel the rest of the dust into the hose.


I'm guessing the problem is it's to close to the floor.

I agree with the 45 elbow but it would be better if the elbow was attached first then the blast gate. If not then you will need to reduce the fitting to except the hose.

So the wooden angle sleeper mentioned would be a better option in my opinion.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I have to either remake the whole pan OR make a spacer. I could kick myself from straying from the original plan shown in post #6. If I would have stayed with the plan I would have been done right now. :furious:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I just checked my band saw height and I have 7” to work with. i found some MDF And I'm gluing it together for my spacer


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

It’s been over a year since I posted this and sorry to bring it out again, but I just wanted to finish it. After a number of futile attempts to fix the problem without rebuilding the pan, I put it on hold. I’ve been using my joiner a lot lately and I’m getting sick and tired of the mess, so I just had to stop and finish it. 

I left off with the mention of making a wood angle adapter, but it was too big and the angle wasn’t long enough.










Today I went to HD and bought a 4” adjustable elbow and cut the insert part to fold back inside the whole. I then covered the vent holes with some 1/8” plywood. I did not want to drill holes in the original parts so I used wood strips to secure the plywood an run the screws thru the vent holes. I then realized that I need something to position the cover in place while fastening it with the tabs so I glued on a little piece of wood to hold on to.



















Hooked up the hose and it look like it’s working finally. I just don't know why I didn't think of this before. :smile:










I almost forgot the inside photo. It was an after though so it was a little sloppy installation because I could not get inside and had to work at an arms length, but its strong.


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