# Sharpening roughing gouge - where did I go wrong?



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I just sharpened my roughing gouge for the first time. I used a wolverine sharpening jig and a 100 grit stone. I set the jig up so the angle of the grind would be the same as the original angle; I think I got pretty close. I rotated the gouge back and forth, being careful not to over heat. The resulting edge looked terrific and I cleaned up the inside with a slip stone. Feeling proud of my accomplishment, I took it to the lathe to round up a square of maple. Every time I touch it to the blank, it takes off to the left. I tried riding the bevel and sneaking into the cut, but each time I hit the cutting edge, it takes off. I rounded the stock with another tool and tried the roughing gouge again - same thing it takes off to the left leaving a spiral in the wood. It's obviously a result of my sharpening job. What did I do wrong?


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

i think you just have it super sharp now :yes:
you might not be holding it firm enough to the tool rest
a skew chisel is really bad for that


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Might also be that you have a little wing or rip catching


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Wrong tool for the job and wrong jig for the tool. I don't know anyone who sharpens the roughing gouge on the Wolverine. Most sharpen it either with the handle in the Oneway V arm or with the tool on the tool rest. 
Here's a video showing how I sharpen it.





Here's the tool you should be using. 






Here's a video showing what happens when you use a roughing gouge on bowls and platters.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=IOhHeyoZLaY


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Thanks you explain well...but there is not a sharpening video


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

So, I'm a little confused. I'm using the Wolverine in just the way shown on Oneway's site (as shown in the attached picture). And, if you don't use a roughing gouge to rough a square to start a spindle, what should be used?


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

THat's the V arm of the Oneway Jig. The Wolverine is a seperate jig that is used to sharpen bowl gouges. 
Sorry can't find my sharpening video. Thanks to Frickin Google I no longer have access to my videos. I have to search for them just like you all do. I'm still working on that but just haven't had the patience to screw with it. I'm not very computer literate so it all pisses me off when I start trying to figure it out.


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## knika (Jan 15, 2012)

Quickstep I am with you. I would try resharpening but leave the inside alone. Leaving a bur is sometime favorable.

Jack


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

I don't necessarily agree that a burr is favorable but it doesn't have to be removed. It will go away on it's own after the first few hundred revolutions of the wood against it. I do remove them. I use a round fish hook sharpening diamond hone. Keep it parallel to the flute. You don't want to round over that edge you just want the burr gone. 

Found the video with the roughing gouge. It's toward the end of this one. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOEL7Q3CpZc


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Quickstep said:


> It's obviously a result of my sharpening job. What did I do wrong?


Not necessarily ... it could be the way you present the tool to the workpiece.

How are you standing? Are you holding the tool at 90 degrees to the axis of the lathe, or are you "aiming it" the direction you will sweep it across the workpiece?

I find tools are most likely to take off on their own when I haven't chosen the path I want them to take.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Quickstep said:


> If you don't use a roughing gouge to rough a square to start a spindle, what should be used?


A roughing gouge is one of the options to rough out a spindle to get it round. The other option is a skew. A skew may leave a smoother finish, but this may not matter since further turning is likely to happen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kymZdrmP8Fw


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## jgilfor (Jan 25, 2013)

To add to what others have said:

You may be leaving a bit too much edge on one side. Although SRG's should be sharpened straight across, many folks find it easier to use if the corners are a bit ground back; not so much, just a bit, so that they are slightly rounded and not too pointy.

Also, make sure that you approach the wood with the handle well down, and only start to raise it as the bevel is rubbing. Play with the angle of attack (some like full on parallel to the wood, while others like closer to a 45 degree angle).

I find that I get a much easier and smoother cut if I move from right to left and/or left to right as the blade is cutting. Watch the top edge of the piece, rather than where the blade is (as you would for most other cutting); that will give you a much better feel for the amount of material being removed.


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