# Repairs to Balinese 'Teak' ?



## bobcherry007 (Apr 7, 2010)

I have two tables I imported from Brunei, both previously imported from Bali, I think they are teak but not 100% sure, they are very thick and very heavy!
In Brunei, they cracked and the shop came out and repaired them using what looked like a resin/sawdust mix that did a good job. Now they are back in the UK, they are drying out more than ever and cracking big time.


Any ideas how to repair??

:blink:


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

I see several people have looked at this and not chimed in...here goes my thoughts. I would say let it alone for awhile longer (how long have you had it in your climate ?) and see what else it does. The first repair was the technique I would use again...but if it is still moving it may be pointless to make the repair right now.


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

That one looks like a glue joint coming apart.
I'd rip the piece and re-glue it for that crack.
might consider it for the other one as well, after a period of time... let the wood acclimatise first.


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## chubbyhubby (Mar 7, 2010)

All I have to suggest is for you to strip the piece by sanding and make a mixture of its sawdust and an adhesive. I've repaired small splits by forcing glue down the crack, and then sanding the surface before the glue sets up. This mixes them both together and can look fairly good. Pretty much what was done before. And definitely left the piece acclimate to the humidity there. But don't be surprised if it still splits from swings in your moisture level. Here in the Midwestern states, we go from very dry winters to humid summers.


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## bobcherry007 (Apr 7, 2010)

Both pieces have been in my home now for 18 months. Can anyone detail how to do a sawdust resin repair that can be adjusted for colour? It will have to be a resin I can get here in the UK.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Can you post a photo or two showing the overall table top? It is hard to tell how long the cracks run. I don't like the looks of the one in the left picture. I agree with Jlhaslip about the one on the right. It could have split again because the first repair didn't get the resin mix deep enough into the crack. Rip, dowel or biscuit and re-glue might be the best option there.


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## bobcherry007 (Apr 7, 2010)

*More Pictures*

Thanks for all the comments so far, the cracking continues! I have posted pictures of both tables so that you can see the extent of it. I think I will be patching these for as long as we keep them!


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Wow now there's a big chunk of Teak!! The round table doesn't look too bad. The split down the middle looks like a split for a leaf. That crack on the side of the long table really bothers me. I can see a guest catching their clothes or leg on it. I might be inclined to cut that out with a rip cut and just refinish the bare edge. Problem with that is you might have to relocate the legs on that side. Hard to tell. The crack on the right of the long table looks like glue joint separation. It appears nice and straight. Would be a pretty straightforward fix by ripping a new glue edge. The long one on the left doesn't look as straight but that could be the camera angle. Instead of fighting these cracks what if you were to encapsulate them in a bar top epoxy resin and just tell yourself they add character? I'm sure more qualified opinions will be forthcoming. Both are good looking sets!


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Well, you have had them long enough to pretty much acclimatise under normal conditions and if they are still cracking the wood was not seasoned much, if at all, prior to building the table. 
So your assessment is correct in that repairs will be on-going. 
Anyway, here is what to do:
Get some teak or mahogany sawdust and put it aside. Also put aside epoxy injectors (Look like hypodermic needles) 
Use masking tape under the table and on the vertical cracks to confine the epoxy so it doesn't run all over the place. Also use masking tape olong the cracks to cut down on the mess. If done properly, there should be no mess. 
Mix up some epoxy by combining the Part A (Resin) and Part B(Activator). After a thorough mixing, add the sawdust and keep stirring. Now load up an injector and inject the epoxy into the cracks until the epoxy is level with the top surface. As the epoxy settles in to the cracks, the level will sink so add more epoxy. When you are finished, make the epoxy level just slightly higher than the table top surface. As soon as the epoxy tacks up enough not to run, remove the masking on the top surface. Leave the rest in place and remove it tomorrow carefully with a razor blade. 
In areas that would not fill with epoxy because the crack was too small. Use CA glue and sawdust by squirting the 'thin' CA glue into the crack. Rub in by hand some saw dust, then add more CA glue on top of that. Repeat until finished. 
This takes less time to do than for me to explain.


One more thing, the only place I would use a clamp is on the outside edge piece. Only use moderate pressure or it will open up again.If after the repair it looks like it's a bit 'bulging out' just sand it flush with the table edge. This will elimimate and catches.


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