# Using the Skew Chisel



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I am still learning to use the lathe. I have watched hours of videos and have created a lot of saw dust trying to get the hang of turning. One knife I want to use more and more is the skew. Some folks don't like them but I like them pretty well as of right now. In watching some videos I came across a skew that looks like it is a winner. I think Alan Lacer came up with it, not sure though.

I checked the price on his knives, man he is proud of those things. They do a great job but they are way out of my price range. Have any of you ever tried to reshape one of your regular skews to the shape that Alan Lacer's knives are? If so, did you have any luck at it?


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

BigJim said:


> Have any of you ever tried to reshape one of your regular skews to the shape that Alan Lacer's knives are?


If you decide to fire up your grinder, here is an article covering one method to reshape a skew. Reshaping the Skew Chisel | Popular Woodworking Magazine 

I have not tried a skew that has that particular edge profile.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I wish @BigJim had posted a link or two. I am not sure what he is referring to. 

_-> Is BigJim asking about skew chisels with a curved cutting edge (vs. straight cutting edge)?_ 
On the curved cutting edges I have seen, the sharp edge curves around one corner and slowly shallows out until it is nearly straight (perpendicular) on the other corner. 

The skew chisel that came with my Sorby set came a straight edge. That's what I use, and I am still learning to get good with it. I have observed that some of the best woodturners in our group prefer skew chisels with curved edges.

... or ...

_-> Is BigJim asking about skew chisels with an oval or round shaped body (vs flat body)?_
I have seen multiple skew chisel body shape types: 

Flat with sharp, square sides - Like my older Sorby skew chisel.
Flat with slightly rounded side "corners" - Like the improved, current version of my Sorby, which is supposed to be easier to roll on the tool rest.
Oval
Round

I saw a round skew chisel at a woodworking "garage sale" and almost bought it, until a friend warned me away from it, saying that round skew chisels are nearly impossible to align and keep aligned while sharpening.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Grinding that edge profile in shouldn't be too hard at all, it's just a pretty gentle radius from what I can see. But of time at the grinder and you're good to go. Sharpening will be a touch more challenging


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tool Agnostic said:


> I wish @BigJim had posted a link or two. I am not sure what he is referring to.
> 
> _-> Is BigJim asking about skew chisels with a curved cutting edge (vs. straight cutting edge)?_
> On the curved cutting edges I have seen, the sharp edge curves around one corner and slowly shallows out until it is nearly straight (perpendicular) on the other corner.
> ...


Sorry, I should have been more clear. Here is a link to one of his chisels that I want to reshape one of my angled to look like.



https://stores.alanswoodturningstore.com/lacer-uber-ultimate-skew-chisel-1-3-8-handled/



Thanks for the link Dave, I appreciate it. That is what I will try to do. It doesn't look too hard.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

My favorite tool is the skew. However, that said, I do not like the radius edge that some turners use. I went to a sharpening class and the instructor put such an edge on my skew. I hate it. I have a fondness for Craftsman skew chisels and buy them at flea markets and yard sales. Easy to do a quick touch up on a diamond card. Contrary to all advice, I also use a skew as a scraper to hollow out end grain boxes. For rounding small square stock, I use a skew chisel. Even for parting off small items. I have a Benjamin's Best 2 inch skew that I use once in a while. Even one of those Russian skew chisels with the long diagonal edge and round shank. I some times turn for an entire afternoon using only a skew chisel. Just remember when trying to taper, cut a bead or cove with a skew. Always cut down hill. Folks seem to get into the catch problem when the edge is held too close to perpendicular to the piece. or they get off the edge to the toe or heel. There are times to flip the skew over Allan Lacer is a wizard with the skew, but watch some Eastern Europeans use skew chisels too. I was having great difficulty with catches and then one day, watching (I believe a) Czech or Hungarian video using the skew, just what the guy showed, I could not understand a word, the skew suddenly made sense to me. I still get lots of catches with gouges, but very very rarely with a skew.

On most cheap crappy sets of chisels, the skew is far too thin and chatters or vibrates like mad with any slight over hang.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

holtzdreher said:


> My favorite tool is the skew. However, that said, I do not like the radius edge that some turners use. I went to a sharpening class and the instructor put such an edge on my skew. I hate it. I have a fondness for Craftsman skew chisels and buy them at flea markets and yard sales. Easy to do a quick touch up on a diamond card. Contrary to all advice, I also use a skew as a scraper to hollow out end grain boxes. For rounding small square stock, I use a skew chisel. Even for parting off small items. I have a Benjamin's Best 2 inch skew that I use once in a while. Even one of those Russian skew chisels with the long diagonal edge and round shank. I some times turn for an entire afternoon using only a skew chisel. Just remember when trying to taper, cut a bead or cove with a skew. Always cut down hill. Folks seem to get into the catch problem when the edge is held too close to perpendicular to the piece. or they get off the edge to the toe or heel. There are times to flip the skew over Allan Lacer is a wizard with the skew, but watch some Eastern Europeans use skew chisels too. I was having great difficulty with catches and then one day, watching (I believe a) Czech or Hungarian video using the skew, just what the guy showed, I could not understand a word, the skew suddenly made sense to me. I still get lots of catches with gouges, but very very rarely with a skew.
> 
> On most cheap crappy sets of chisels, the skew is far too thin and chatters or vibrates like mad with any slight over hang.


I appreciate that information, I will check out some of the Hungarian turners. Anything I can see to learn more I am all for.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Seems like that slight radius would help eliminate the catches you can get from digging in the heel or toe. When using the skew to clean up a spindle after the gouges, you do have to make sure you're in the center of the blade.

I've only been turning for about three years, but I have found lots of uses for the skew chisels. I really like them for cleaning up smooth areas of a spindle, turning the pommel, turning beads and larger coves. Sometimes I use the bigger one like a scraper for the outside of bowls. I like to use the smaller one for the regular uses as well as making the bowl chucking mortises.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I had the bright idea I would grind the profile on one of my skews today to resemble Alan Lacer's chisels. Well, that didn't work, what looked so easy, turned out to be not so easy. So far that skew is junk. I just hope I can bring it back around, if not I will just have to use the other skew as is. For some reason, the older I get the harder things seem to be to me. lol

I agree, the profile on Alan Lacer's chisel will make it a lot easier to use. I hate surprises and when I get a catch I really jump. I guess kick backs etc from saws have made me kinda gun-shy on the lathe.


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## TwelveFoot (Dec 30, 2015)

I reshaped my skew to be similar to one of these Alan Lacer's we're talking about (1/3 of the edge straight, 2/3 curved) and I like it. Don't expect a world of difference from fully straight, but a bit better.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I got it made today, after I figured a way to cut the radius consistently in a smooth flow it was so bad. The sad part is like TwelveFoot said, it is a little better but not worth what their chisels cost. 








I also found out something else today. I finally got a new dove tail grip lathe chuck and found out you don't turn the lathe off fast. That blame thing like to have hit my foot...twice. lol The lathe stopped, the chuck didn't, off that sucker came. Missed my foot by a fraction of an inch. How do you guys keep them on without them coming unscrewed. I got it just barely started and turned the lath on in reverse wide open, it seems to screw on really tight. lol

Lucky my lathe motor is variable speed, I can turn it down slowly just in case it wants to come off again.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

BigJim said:


> How do you guys keep them on without them coming unscrewed.


The chuck I use is equipped with a set screw that tightens down behind the threads. Seems to work well, I have even done some inside turning, while in reverse.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I will check to see if this one has the screw, Thanks Dave.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Dave McCann said:


> The chuck I use is equipped with a set screw that tightens down behind the threads. Seems to work well, I have even done some inside turning, while in reverse.


I checked to see if there was a lock screw on the grizzly lathe chuck, the one I have does not have one. Do I just need to buy a lock nut.

One more question, what are the numbers on the back of the chuck for?


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

BigJim said:


> I checked to see if there was a lock screw on the grizzly lathe chuck, the one I have does not have one. Do I just need to buy a lock nut.
> 
> One more question, what are the numbers on the back of the chuck for?


Can you post a photo of the numbers? Could they be jaw numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4?

Some lathe chucks are labeled "Reversible". They are designed to work with lathes that have a reverse feature, primarily for reverse sanding. Some reversible lathes have a "flat spot" behind the headstock threads for a set screw that prevents the chuck from spinning off the headstock threads in reverse.

Photos:

Nova G3 Reversible Chuck - The chuck is partially threaded onto the headstock, angled to show the small threaded hole on the inside of the chuck, towards the rear. That small threaded hole is where the set screw goes. The set screw prevents the chuck from coming off the headstock when the lathe is run in reverse.
Delta 46-460 Headstock Threads - Shows the flat spot immediately behind the lathe headstock threads on the lathe arbor(?). It matches up with that threaded hole in the previous photo. With the set screw installed and tightened, the chuck won't come off when the lathe is in reverse.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

I have the Nova G3. It only needs the set screw for reverse. The numbers on the chuck correspond to a number on each jaw. Don't mix them up.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

BigJim said:


> I checked to see if there was a lock screw on the grizzly lathe chuck, the one I have does not have one.


The linked video shows the set screw. In the video, the set up shown uses an adapter, so there are two set screws, one for the adapter and one for the chuck. 
If the chuck you have does not have provision for a set screw, you may be able to take the chuck to a machine shop and have it drilled and tapped for a set screw.
(6) Nova G3 Wood Lathe Chuck Unboxing and Setup - YouTube


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tool Agnostic said:


> Can you post a photo of the numbers? Could they be jaw numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4?
> 
> Some lathe chucks are labeled "Reversible". They are designed to work with lathes that have a reverse feature, primarily for reverse sanding. Some reversible lathes have a "flat spot" behind the headstock threads for a set screw that prevents the chuck from spinning off the headstock threads in reverse.
> 
> ...


My lathe is an old craftsman or it looks like that brand. The threads on my head stock are threaded all the way to a stop. If it did have a set screw it would hit threads.

The numbers are on the back, like this chuck. Mine has the numbers like this one but it doesn't have the protrusion where the lock screw is. My chuck cost more than this one also.









4 Jaw Wood Chuck 3/4" x 16 TPI at Grizzly.com


<p>This 4-Jaw, Self-Centering Chuck with dovetailed jaws is great for small bowl and plate turning and features jaws that grip by clamping around the workpiece or expanding to fit a turned recess. The minimum diameter required for clamping around the workpiece is 1-1/4" and the minimum diameter...




www.grizzly.com


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Dave, we must have posted at the same time. lol I will check to see if there is an adapter online to lock it onto the shaft.

I appreciate y'all help. It sure isn't fun to have that heavy thing trying to hit my toes when I stop the lathe. lol


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

BigJim said:


> Dave, we must have posted at the same time. lol I will check to see if there is an adapter online to lock it onto the shaft.
> 
> I appreciate y'all help. It sure isn't fun to have that heavy thing trying to hit my toes when I stop the lathe. lol


The adapter is not going to help you lock the chuck. The adapter is only to adapt one size thread to another size thread. Example; I suspect your Craftman uses a 3/4-16 thread and you chuck has 3/4-16 thread. Screws right on, but no locking screw.


I also have a Craftsman lathe. At the time it was the only lathe I owned,
I bought a chuck with a locking screw (knowing I wanted reverse capability in any new lathe I would purchase) in a thread size of 1"-8 (knowing any new lathe I would purchase would be that size) I then bought an adapter so I could use the chuck on a spindle with 3/4-16 threads.

All fine and dandy but the chuck (your chuck) itself still needs a set screw to provide the locking function.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

If the numbers are 1, 2, 3, and 4 - then they show you which jaws go where. 

If the numbers are a range from 1 to something in sequence then they are indexing marks. My lathe goes from 1 to 24 with an indexing pin to lock the spindle at each position. If your chuck has numbers in sequence from 1 to 24, then each index mark is 15 degrees. If it has holes, then the holes are for an indexing pin to keep it in place. To be honest, I don't know how that works with your chuck, or what jig or accessory you need to make it work. 

You can use indexing marks (and lock pins) to rotate your turning a specific amount (say, every 30 degrees) for decorating your turnings. A common example would be decorative flutes or grooves that run along the length of a spindle turning.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I taught myself turning from Richard Raffan's book, which I believe was his first. This was back in the early 1980's. There is mention in the book about rounding off the long and short edge of the Skew chisel. Its the sharp corners that make those unwanted catches. You want to round off the corners yet still maintain a long and short edge as was in the way you bought it. Then you should use the shew chisel as normal.
I noticed that a lot of videos on YOUTUBE show the skew being used like a scraper when it should actually be used as a cutting tool.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Dave McCann said:


> The adapter is not going to help you lock the chuck. The adapter is only to adapt one size thread to another size thread. Example; I suspect your Craftman uses a 3/4-16 thread and you chuck has 3/4-16 thread. Screws right on, but no locking screw.
> 
> 
> I also have a Craftsman lathe. At the time it was the only lathe I owned,
> ...


I have contacted Grizzly so I am waiting to see what they have to say. Hopefully they will have a solution. If not I guess I can buy a jam nut to lock it in place. 
Tony, I plan to use the two edges or points, so I need to regrind the knife as the angle is too steep as it is now..


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tool Agnostic said:


> If the numbers are 1, 2, 3, and 4 - then they show you which jaws go where.
> 
> If the numbers are a range from 1 to something in sequence then they are indexing marks. My lathe goes from 1 to 24 with an indexing pin to lock the spindle at each position. If your chuck has numbers in sequence from 1 to 24, then each index mark is 15 degrees. If it has holes, then the holes are for an indexing pin to keep it in place. To be honest, I don't know how that works with your chuck, or what jig or accessory you need to make it work.
> 
> You can use indexing marks (and lock pins) to rotate your turning a specific amount (say, every 30 degrees) for decorating your turnings. A common example would be decorative flutes or grooves that run along the length of a spindle turning.


It does have the numbers 1 -24, I appreciate that information, that will come in handy.


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

BigJim said:


> I got it made today, after I figured a way to cut the radius consistently in a smooth flow it was so bad. The sad part is like TwelveFoot said, it is a little better but not worth what their chisels cost.
> 
> View attachment 431165
> I also found out something else today. I finally got a new dove tail grip lathe chuck and found out you don't turn the lathe off fast. That blame thing like to have hit my foot...twice. lol The lathe stopped, the chuck didn't, off that sucker came. Missed my foot by a fraction of an inch. How do you guys keep them on without them coming unscrewed. I got it just barely started and turned the lath on in reverse wide open, it seems to screw on really tight. lol
> ...


I built my own lathe. Being left handed I thought it would be more convenient to have the headstock to my right.
I turned the lathe 180° so the head stock was to my right. I then had to reverse the rotation of the motor. 
I then turned the lathe on and the chuck spun right off the 1 x8 threaded spindle. Hit the shop floor , rolled thru an open door and finally stopped in my vegtable garden. I quickly grabbed the unharmed chuck, before anyone could see it.
Then turned the lathe around, reversed the motor again and quit for the day.
mike


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

kwoodhands said:


> I built my own lathe. Being left handed I thought it would be more convenient to have the headstock to my right.
> I turned the lathe 180° so the head stock was to my right. I then had to reverse the rotation of the motor.
> I then turned the lathe on and the chuck spun right off the 1 x8 threaded spindle. Hit the shop floor , rolled thru an open door and finally stopped in my vegtable garden. I quickly grabbed the unharmed chuck, before anyone could see it.
> Then turned the lathe around, reversed the motor again and quit for the day.
> mike


I sure know that feeling, that chuck just missed my foot by a fraction of an inch.

I did get a reply from Grizzley yesterday and they said none of their chucks have a locking screw on them, they said the chuck is held on by friction. I guess we will find out soon enough. I just started the chuck on the threads of the lathe then turned the lathe on wide open in reverse. it did lock on and didn't come off when I shut it off this time. I will be very leery to run the lathe in reverse with the chuck on.

They did say they would take it back if it was in perfect condition and not used. So much for sending it back. When it hit the floor it didn't hurt the chuck, but that made it in used condition. One thing that concerned me was when I ordered the chuck, the invoice had two different prices on two different invoices. The other price was higher than what was advertised. I did get the chuck for the lower price of $147 shipping and tax included.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

BigJim said:


> I guess we will find out soon enough. I just started the chuck on the threads of the lathe then turned the lathe on wide open in reverse.


Would that not spin the "just started" chuck off the end of the spindle? or what am I missing?
If you are using a non locking (no set screw) face plate , you have the same concerns when running in reverse.

Keep this in mind when purchasing additional accessories.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Dave McCann said:


> Would that not spin the "just started" chuck off the end of the spindle? or what am I missing?
> If you are using a non locking (no set screw) face plate , you have the same concerns when running in reverse.
> 
> Keep this in mind when purchasing additional accessories.


Hmmm, you are right, I didn't run it in reverse, I did run it in forward to lock it onto the spindle. This getting old... ok being old has its drawbacks. lol

If I do buy a face plate I will be sure to get one with a set screw. The heck of it is, my spindle doesn't have a shoulder behind the threads, it is threaded all the way to the stop.

I gave the lathe skew I modified a try yesterday, I am not satisfied with it yet. I found out that I have the angle too steep so I have started to regrind the knife.


Tony B said:


> I taught myself turning from Richard Raffan's book, which I believe was his first. This was back in the early 1980's. There is mention in the book about rounding off the long and short edge of the Skew chisel. Its the sharp corners that make those unwanted catches. You want to round off the corners yet still maintain a long and short edge as was in the way you bought it. Then you should use the shew chisel as normal.
> I noticed that a lot of videos on YOUTUBE show the skew being used like a scraper when it should actually be used as a cutting tool.


Tony, I apologize for not answering your reply sooner. I wonder how the skew would work when using it to cut the side flat on a piece with the edges/ends or points rounded a little? It may work even better, I really don't know. I did check out Richard Raffan's book you suggested, I will probable buy that one, I am all in for learning. I appreciate the suggestion.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

@BigJim 
I think if you laid it flat it would be some form of modified scraper and probably not good at it. The skew is a cutting tool not a scraper. When held at the proper angle, it makes shavings not crumbs and dust.
When Raffin wrote that book, it was the only one I knew of on bowl turning with cutting tools. I didn't know any local turners personally and that is all I had. I was making nice bowls shortly after I bought the book. 
With i year or two after I started turning and selling bowls and platters and along comes the prelude to the first woodturning symposium.. It was held in Tennessee. There were some serious turners there. The kind that were showing up in books which I was now finding. Anyway, the following years was the first AAW Symposium in Lexington. KY. I went to at least the 3 symposiums.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tony B said:


> @BigJim
> I think if you laid it flat it would be some form of modified scraper and probably not good at it. The skew is a cutting tool not a scraper. When held at the proper angle, it makes shavings not crumbs and dust.
> When Raffin wrote that book, it was the only one I knew of on bowl turning with cutting tools. I didn't know any local turners personally and that is all I had. I was making nice bowls shortly after I bought the book.
> With i year or two after I started turning and selling bowls and platters and along comes the prelude to the first woodturning symposium.. It was held in Tennessee. There were some serious turners there. The kind that were showing up in books which I was now finding. Anyway, the following years was the first AAW Symposium in Lexington. KY. I went to at least the 3 symposiums.


I agree, I don't think the skew would make a good scraper. I will keep on regrinding and either get the skew right or make it junk, which I have a real knack for doing.

I wish I had learned to turn years back but there just wasn't much call for wood turning in building, and very little for stair building. My time away from woodworking, I was fishing. lol


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I have seen the skew used as a scraper for very limited uses, like scraping the angle behind a bowl tenon or inside a mortise for a chuck.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I agree with TA, but what I use is the spear point scraper for a lot of that. Oftentimes I will use the spearpoint for a start on a bead if it is going to be a large bead. The spearpoint is a pretty useful tool in both spindle and bowl turning. When sharpened, it cuts nicely.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

@BigJim 
In Post #26 you stated * ".... I will be very leery to run the lathe in reverse with the chuck on."*
I think you should start a new thread on this. 
There may be several issues with outboard turning with motor in reverse. I have the Laguna 12-16.
I haven't removed the 'handwheel' on the outboard side yet. This will expose the outboard thread. The attached photo shows the inboard (normal) thread and the slot/recess for the set screw. Here is the problem. In normal rotation in normal turning, the set screw is not necessary. BUTTTTTT in outboard turning, if motor in reverse and chuck loosens, it will spin and drive the set screw against the threads and damage them - I THINK, not sure because I havent removed the outboard handwheel yet. Anyway, something to think about. 
If Grizz, dont have a set screw 'well' to sit in, maybe their Tech Support can direct you in making this recess?


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Outboard turning as it relates to the chuck loosening is NO different than inboard turning. * The threads still are right hand threads and the spindle will be turning counter clockwise as viewed from the work piece in the chuck.*
Inboard turning the cutting forces are downward against the banjo. Outboard turning the cutting forces are downward towards the floor.


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

BigJim said:


> I sure know that feeling, that chuck just missed my foot by a fraction of an inch.
> 
> I did get a reply from Grizzley yesterday and they said none of their chucks have a locking screw on them, they said the chuck is held on by friction. I guess we will find out soon enough. I just started the chuck on the threads of the lathe then turned the lathe on wide open in reverse. it did lock on and didn't come off when I shut it off this time. I will be very leery to run the lathe in reverse with the chuck on.
> 
> They did say they would take it back if it was in perfect condition and not used. So much for sending it back. When it hit the floor it didn't hurt the chuck, but that made it in used condition. One thing that concerned me was when I ordered the chuck, the invoice had two different prices on two different invoices. The other price was higher than what was advertised. I did get the chuck for the lower price of $147 shipping and tax included.


Metal turning lathes with a threaded spindle may have a lock held in place with a screw. The lock is a tapered L shape with a pilot hole for a shoulder head cap screw. The lock does ot touch the threads, The chuck is mounted with a back plate that has a groove for the lock to drop into.
In order to lock a threaded spindle to a wood lathe you need to access a threaded back plate that would accept a chuck and have this groove. You also would need a MT adapter that has a wide flange to bolt the back plate to.
I have two metal lathes ,a Grizzly 10x22 that has this feature. I also have a mini-lathe that the back plate is bolted onto the chuck from the back. The spindle on this machine has a 3" diameter end that uses threaded set screws and nuts to fasten the back plate with the chuck installed to the face of the spindle. No threads on the mini-lathe. 
I am not familiar with any wood lathe that has a lock type mechanism. Personally I do not see a reason to run the lathe in reverse. On a metal lathe there are a number of things that running in reverse helps. 
I would run the lathe with rotation towards you and forget about running in reverse.
mike


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

kwoodhands said:


> Metal turning lathes with a threaded spindle may have a lock held in place with a screw. The lock is a tapered L shape with a pilot hole for a shoulder head cap screw. The lock does ot touch the threads, The chuck is mounted with a back plate that has a groove for the lock to drop into.
> In order to lock a threaded spindle to a wood lathe you need to access a threaded back plate that would accept a chuck and have this groove. You also would need a MT adapter that has a wide flange to bolt the back plate to.
> I have two metal lathes ,a Grizzly 10x22 that has this feature. I also have a mini-lathe that the back plate is bolted onto the chuck from the back. The spindle on this machine has a 3" diameter end that uses threaded set screws and nuts to fasten the back plate with the chuck installed to the face of the spindle. No threads on the mini-lathe.
> I am not familiar with any wood lathe that has a lock type mechanism. Personally I do not see a reason to run the lathe in reverse. On a metal lathe there are a number of things that running in reverse helps.
> ...


I don't really have a choice but to run it forward with the chuck on. There is an awful lot to learn turning, I had no idea it was so involved. I really do appreciate all of your help.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

Dave McCann said:


> Outboard turning as it relates to the chuck loosening is NO different than inboard turning. * The threads still are right hand threads and the spindle will be turning counter clockwise as viewed from the work piece in the chuck.*
> Inboard turning the cutting forces are downward against the banjo. Outboard turning the cutting forces are downward towards the floor.
> View attachment 431267


Actually on most older Delta lathes, the outboard threads are left hand, so most chucks would not fit on the outboard with out new left hand threads. Delta face plates were made with both left and right hand threads for use on either in board or outboard sides without spinning off. So on a Delta, such as the 46-525, the rotation and tool rest would be opposite your diagram. I thought it might take some getting used to, but it was no problem for me.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

holtzdreher said:


> Actually on most older Delta lathes, the outboard threads are left hand, so most chucks would not fit on the outboard with out new left hand threads. Delta face plates were made with both left and right hand threads for use on either in board or outboard sides without spinning off. So on a Delta, such as the 46-525, the rotation and tool rest would be opposite your diagram. I thought it might take some getting used to, but it was no problem for me.


When you say "most" how many and what models are you talking about? I could only find one Delta lathe with left hand outboard threads.
Probably good reasons why this design is no longer in production.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tool Agnostic said:


> I have seen the skew used as a scraper for very limited uses, like scraping the angle behind a bowl tenon or inside a mortise for a chuck.


I was just watching a video and this fellow was using the skew as a scraper, I thought that was kinda odd but he seemed to be doing a pretty good job. I then decided to check out a video on scrapers and found that some people use them more than the regular tools. Thoughts on using scrapers more than regular tools. I thought scrapers didn't do too well, but see they do seem to do a fair job of it. I would not try to make a bowl using cutter tools but may try the scrappers.

I have watched video after video of turning but I just can't seem to get the hang on using the tools. At the risk of sounding like a wimp, I absolutely can't stand a catch or a run. I do see some of the guys who have turned for a long time still get a catch every once in a while. I am about to believe the saying that you can't teach an old dog new tricks.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I noticed that a lot of turners use their cutting tools as scrapers also. Scrapers will get the job done. You will just need to do a little more sanding. Cutting tools will leave the surface nice and shiny whereas scrapers leave the surface not quite as clean. 

@BigJim If you can find that book by Richard Raffin, it will explain how to hold and use the tools. Dont give up on the Skew yet. Did you round off the corners? That will really help in reducing 'catches'. It's frustrating especially when one bad catch could more or less ruin a piece. .


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tony B said:


> I noticed that a lot of turners use their cutting tools as scrapers also. Scrapers will get the job done. You will just need to do a little more sanding. Cutting tools will leave the surface nice and shiny whereas scrapers leave the surface not quite as clean.
> 
> @BigJim If you can find that book by Richard Raffin, it will explain how to hold and use the tools. Dont give up on the Skew yet. Did you round off the corners? That will really help in reducing 'catches'. It's frustrating especially when one bad catch could more or less ruin a piece. .


Thanks Tony, which book was it, he has written several. Let me know, I will order the book, if you say it is a good one, it must be.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Tony B said:


> I noticed that a lot of turners use their cutting tools as scrapers also. Scrapers will get the job done. You will just need to do a little more sanding. Cutting tools will leave the surface nice and shiny whereas scrapers leave the surface not quite as clean. [...]


Adding to Tony's comments: If you use your gouges and skew chisels as scrapers, they will dull very quickly. You will have to stop and sharpen them very often.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

@BigJim 

Looking at old book covers on the internet, *"Turning Wood With Richard Raffan'* published in 1985 looks like the one I'm thinking of. The year also sounds about right. This book appears to have a few revisions. 
If anyone here has read this book, please chime in and verify that this is the one I'm thinking of. It is about the most basic of woodturning books and will get you right up to an intermediate level in a short time.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Tool Agnostic said:


> Adding to Tony's comments: If you use your gouges and skew chisels as scrapers, they will dull very quickly. You will have to stop and sharpen them very often.


I also said that you can never be a good woodturner until you become a good sharpener first. Speed in sharpening and 'touching up' is essential when turning very green wood. It will be changing shape in minutes when it gets real thin. You have to be able to just turn to the grinder, touch it quick and continue turning in one smooth motion This is especially true of wild cherry trees which can virtually be turned paper thin.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tony B said:


> I also said that you can never be a good woodturner until you become a good sharpener first. Speed in sharpening and 'touching up' is essential when turning very green wood. It will be changing shape in minutes when it gets real thin. You have to be able to just turn to the grinder, touch it quick and continue turning in one smooth motion This is especially true of wild cherry trees which can virtually be turned paper thin.


Thanks fellows, I did get out in the shop a little while today. I was going to ask why I had some chatter today but I think I see why. I was turning kiln dried white oak using the chuck. I have never tried to turn any green wood before, I can imagine it turns pretty good. I will give that a try and see.

I was surprised that it went so well today. It did give me a little confidence that I may be able to do this after all.

Tony, I just ordered the book, thanks for the suggestion and information.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Turning green wood is addicting


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Tony B said:


> Turning green wood is addicting


First be sure that your lathe bed and any nearby cast iron is well protected with wax or another protectant ... and wear a raincoat. :-o

(Just joking about the raincoat, but you get the point.)


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

No you're not


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tool Agnostic said:


> First be sure that your lathe bed and any nearby cast iron is well protected with wax or another protectant ... and wear a raincoat. :-o
> 
> (Just joking about the raincoat, but you get the point.)


Thanks for the heads up, I will do that.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

When turning spindles, I usually just wear safety glasses over my prescription glasses. When turning bowls, even small ones, I wear my safety glasses _and_ a face shield. The first time you turn a green bowl, it is really wild how much water gets sprayed out of it. Much more than you would expect.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

Dave McCann said:


> When you say "most" how many and what models are you talking about? I could only find one Delta lathe with left hand outboard threads.
> Probably good reasons why this design is no longer in production.


Of the old floor models sold for schools, industry etc, that I examined or worked with, they all had the left hand threads on outboard.. I know the one in my high school shop did and that was long before the 46-525. That was even before chucks for wood lathes.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

holtzdreher said:


> Of the old floor models sold for schools, industry etc, that I examined or worked with, they all had the left hand threads on outboard.. I know the one in my high school shop did and that was long before the 46-525. That was even before chucks for wood lathes.


That's all I'm asking, what models did you examine and work on? What model was in your high school?


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

Dave McCann said:


> That's all I'm asking, what models did you examine and work on? What model was in your high school?


How am I supposed to remember a the model number of a lathe I used in 1965. I remember that the bowl I made using the face plate could be turned on one way on the outside and then turned the other on the in board side. When I could buy a 46-525, it looked the same and was darn close to the one I used in High school. Came with the outboard turning stand, the duplicator and two face plates both threaded for left and right threads.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

holtzdreher said:


> How am I supposed to remember a the model number of a lathe I used in 1965


HUH? How would we be expected to have prior knowledge of when you went thru high school?


I apologize if what I wrote did not make it clear I was talking right hand threads. 


Dave McCann said:


> The threads still are right hand threads and the spindle will be turning counter clockwise as viewed from the work piece in the chuck.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tony B said:


> @BigJim
> 
> Looking at old book covers on the internet, *"Turning Wood With Richard Raffan'* published in 1985 looks like the one I'm thinking of. The year also sounds about right. This book appears to have a few revisions.
> If anyone here has read this book, please chime in and verify that this is the one I'm thinking of. It is about the most basic of woodturning books and will get you right up to an intermediate level in a short time.


Tony, I got the book in the mail today, already I see one of my main problems when trying to turn. I have my tool rest too low and I am cutting with the knife about dead center. The illustrations show I need to be cutting higher, which will make the cut on a steeper angle. I will give this a change when I get back out in the shop. I took my second virus shot a week ago Thursday and I still feel rough as the dickens, just don't feel like being in the shop right now.

Thanks a ton for suggesting this book, it already is a big help..


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

@BigJim 
Yes the skew should normally be above the centerline and close to flat to make a good clean cut.
The gouge is below the center line and cutting upward somewhat and the "U" is normally at an angle. 
That book will help u progress quickly. Practice on anything you can get your hands on including old 2x4' and 4x4's.
Glad you are learning. 
Also sorry the shots are giving you a reaction. The GF and I have had both plus the booster with no adverse affects. Same for most people we know. I'm sure you will get to feeling better soon.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Yeah, that second dose'll kick the **** out of you. Mine put me pretty out of it for a few days, luckily i had the days off work and was in otherwise good health. Gave me a good excuse to laze about in bed, and now ive got a much lower chance of getting actually sick

Far as the skew does, the best tip i ever got for it was to let the heel of the bevel hit the piece youre turning first, then slowly raise the rear of the tool to bring the actual edge in contact. Tool rest height wasnt really important as far as i noticed, but getting the angle of the tool correct was. Granted, a lower tool rest does make getting that angle easier. Id also recommend using the skew only on already round pieces, at least at first until you get the hang of how to present the edge. Catching a skew on a corner is scary!


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

epicfail48 said:


> Yeah, that second dose'll kick the **** out of you. Mine put me pretty out of it for a few days, luckily i had the days off work and was in otherwise good health. Gave me a good excuse to laze about in bed, and now ive got a much lower chance of getting actually sick
> 
> Far as the skew does, the best tip i ever got for it was to let the heel of the bevel hit the piece youre turning first, then slowly raise the rear of the tool to bring the actual edge in contact. Tool rest height wasnt really important as far as i noticed, but getting the angle of the tool correct was. Granted, a lower tool rest does make getting that angle easier. Id also recommend using the skew only on already round pieces, at least at first until you get the hang of how to present the edge. Catching a skew on a corner is scary!


I appreciate the information, I have had many catches and runs already, not fun. Thanks again.

Thanks Tony I appreciate it.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

@BigJim 
You are quite welcome Jim. I dont remember where I learned about reshaping the chisel, whether from this book or at one of the symposiums. But it is critical that you slightly round the top and bottom corners. When you are cutting you should actually make contact with the blade just slightly below the center of the blade. Any contact higher up on the chisel and you will get a 'catch' on the upper part of the chisel and any contact further below the slightly lower than center will cause the chisel to 'catch' on the lower part of the blade. That is why I started to slightly round the upper and lower points of the blade. This broadens your 'center of effort' by reducing the dangerous edges by rounding them over. Hopefully that book will mention this. It has been around 35 years since I read the book so my memory ain't that great. 
Anyway, that book will put you on the road to good turning in a short period of time. 
Please keep us informed of your book learning, it may help others also.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Tony B said:


> @BigJim
> You are quite welcome Jim. I dont remember where I learned about reshaping the chisel, whether from this book or at one of the symposiums. But it is critical that you slightly round the top and bottom corners. When you are cutting you should actually make contact with the blade just slightly below the center of the blade. Any contact higher up on the chisel and you will get a 'catch' on the upper part of the chisel and any contact further below the slightly lower than center will cause the chisel to 'catch' on the lower part of the blade. That is why I started to slightly round the upper and lower points of the blade. This broadens your 'center of effort' by reducing the dangerous edges by rounding them over. Hopefully that book will mention this. It has been around 35 years since I read the book so my memory ain't that great.
> Anyway, that book will put you on the road to good turning in a short period of time.
> Please keep us informed of your book learning, it may help others also.


Thanks Tony, I will do that.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Just sharing:

We have several woodturning gift projects coming up for the season. The projects are nothing special. A few days ago, I sharpened the turning tools, then got out some scrapwood and started playing with designs. Just basic prep work - making sure that everything was in order.

Probably because of this thread, I was more focused on the skew chisel. To be honest, it was merely fun practice and playing; turning small spindles with design elements that I may use for the gifts.

Well ... the last bead at the end got me. I let the skew chisel touch the spur drive, and the spur drive put a huge nick in the middle of the skew edge. By "huge nick", I mean a 12 gauge semicircular divot. Okay, 12 gauge wire, not shotgun barrel, although it felt like it.

It took me about 4 hours on the Grizzly wet grinder to regrind the edge on the skew chisel and take out the nick. If you look carefully, there is a tiny remnant in the edge, but the skew is in good working order and I will take out the last of the nick while turning and sharpening in the coming weeks.

In case anyone cares, I set the skew chisel back to the default face angle 15/15=30 degrees, and the skew angle at 20 degrees. The edge is almost straight, and both heel and toe are points.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Tool Agnostic said:


> We have several woodturning gift projects coming up for the season. The projects are nothing special.


"who" is this "we" that you speak of ?? and who will be the recipients of these fine gifts ?


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Jim - are you going to have a Left and Right set ?
I just bought a "blank" chisel at the flea market for $2.00 that I want to make one also.
I've never seen one, much less used one, so I don't know which would be best for a right-handed person.


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## Jonzjob (Oct 31, 2021)

I used to get loads of catches with the skew when I was first learning, but I practiced and practiced until I could at least do some jobs without saying 'golly-gosh' several times. Then I learned to swop from right handed to left handed. By that time I had found out what caused the most catches and used that knowledge to get it right left handed too. As has been said it's usually the corner of the cutting edge that bites. So these days it's so easy to look at youtube and ;earn, not always the correct way though.

Using the skew as a negative rake scraper? Why not? I have done so for a couple of decades and as long as the tool is sharp and you aren't heavy handed then it's a very good way to get it to tight corners.

I have a 1" oval skew, a ½" rectangular skew, a ¼" rectangular one a /38" round one and a 10mm round one. The ⅜" used to be a ⅜" spindle gouge that was sharpened down to the round HSS steel bar. So I took it out of the handle, refitted it with the old spindle end in the handle and reground the new end to the angles I wanted. It works wonderfully. The 10mm is 10mm HSS stokd. I turned the handle with a short length of 20mm copper pipe as the ferrule fitted the 10mm stock and have one of my go to tools. The round skew is quite different and lovely to use. They are difficult to master, but well worth the effort and I will get there one day 











One bid advantage of the 10mm skew was the price. The 10mm HSS bar was about 5 beer tokens (£), a scrap piece of ash and an off cut form a plumbing job.

Edit. I meant to also include a 1" carbon steel skew that I modified to a curved edge and I don't like it.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

John Smith_inFL said:


> "who" is this "we" that you speak of ?? and who will be the recipients of these fine gifts ?


We = my spouse and me. Gifts are always from both of us together. The holiday gift recipients will be family. I never said "fine."


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

John Smith_inFL said:


> Jim - are you going to have a Left and Right set ?
> I just bought a "blank" chisel at the flea market for $2.00 that I want to make one also.
> I've never seen one, much less used one, so I don't know which would be best for a right-handed person.
> View attachment 432767


I realize the illustration below show a straight edge. But wouldn't the concept be the same? The actual edge is centered, so same tool is both right and left, just depends on which face it up.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

well shucks, T/A - I wanted a gift !! I guess I'll have to go down to WalMart and put my name the tree again this year.
(and anything you make is "fine" or 10 times better).


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

@Jonzjob - I saw a round skew chisel for a great price at an estate sale. I almost bought it, until a friend pointed out how difficult they are to align for sharpening.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Thanks for he drawing, Dave - for some reason, I was thinking that only one side was beveled.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

John Smith_inFL said:


> Thanks for he drawing, Dave - for some reason, I was thinking that only one side was beveled.


I totally missed that one. I thought you were teasing @BigJim about it. Kinda' like "left-handed tennis racket" or "left handed pencil", that sort of teasing.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

LOL no, I was serious - I saw the half round skew on YouTube a couple of years ago and couldn't remember if the bevel was on both sides or just one. which would make it left or right.
if the bevel is on both sides, then it wouldn't matter. - maybe I better go back and watch the vids again.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

@John Smith_inFL 
I believe that if the skew has a bevel only on one side it is really a scraper, not a skew. I might be thinking this wrong, it's happened before.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Actually, there are two kinds of skew chisel. I realized that @John Smith_inFL must have been thinking of the "other" type of skew chisel. Until now, this thread has been mostly about woodturning skew chisels for the lathe.

Woodturning Skew Chisel for the Lathe:
A skew chisel used for woodturning on the lathe. It has a bevel on each side, like a typical kitchen knife. It can be a versatile turning tool for spindle turning. It is rarely used for face turning.

Woodworking Skew Chisel:
This has a flat back like a typical bench chisel, but with an angled front edge. There are left and right versions. They are useful for getting into corners when hand-cutting dovetails, for example. This may have been the type that John Smith_inFL was thinking about in his post above.

I learned about the two types of skew chisels when I bought a skew chisel jig for the Veritas honing guide. My intent was to use it to sharpen a woodturning skew chisel, the kind with bevels on both sides. When skew chisel jig for the Veritas honing guide arrived, I learned that it is designed to work ONLY with woodworking skew chisels (the kind with a flat back), not my woodturning one.
Honing Guide:
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=144
Skew Chisel Jig (good ONLY for woodworking skew chisels, NOT woodturning skew chisels):
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=220


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## Jonzjob (Oct 31, 2021)

Whilst on the subject of woodworking skews. I would always say that using woodwork type chisels and gouges is a complete no no on turning as they only have a tang going in to the handle and are NOT strong enough to be used on a lathe. Get a catch and the tang has been known to break. The same reason you should never use a spindle roughing gouge on face work.

Here's another reason watch


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Tool Agnostic said:


> Until now, this thread has been mostly about woodturning skew chisels for the lathe.


That would be expected, given that this is the "wood turning forum". And as has already and rightfully so be pointed out, other types of wood working chisels labeled as skew chisels, are NOT to used for wood turning on a lathe.

Another example would be bowl gouges. Just because a tool may be labeled a bowl gouge does NOT mean it is meant to be used on a lathe. 
Wood carving bowl gouge;









Lathe bowl gouge;










Another example might be a "scraper". A wood workers scraper is quite different than a wood turners scraper. When folks have a discussion here on the wood turning forum and mention using a "scraper", it is probably safe to assume they are talking about a scraper designed to be used on a wood lathe.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

ok now - thanks to all for the clarifications.
Jim - I totally agree that with your skills, you can make a skew yourself just as good or better than the one in the original post for $240.00. (that is just plain crazy).
I would like to get back to the original question with a Lathe Turning Skew as I would like to make one also. (the correct way).


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Well for crying out loud, I made a post and didn't hit "post reply", I was wondering why it hadn't shown up lol.
I haven't been out in the shop to do turning in a while now but I sure do plan to very soon.

There is a lot of great information here and I really do appreciate it. I sure won't be turning like in the video, I already tried that, sure didn't work worth a cuss. lol


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## Jonzjob (Oct 31, 2021)

Tool Agnostic said:


> @Jonzjob - I saw a round skew chisel for a great price at an estate sale. I almost bought it, until a friend pointed out how difficult they are to align for sharpening.


Did your friend say why they are difficult to sharpen TA? 

I have a OneWay Wolverine set, like this watch and I have not had any problems with any of my skews or gouges. Mine came with the fingernail jig and it's just so very easy to use.

And this is the wheel that I use. Expensive, but well worth it! woodcut-tru-grind-cbn-grinding-wheel-150-x-25-x-12-7mm-180grit-504680


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I have said in other posts that I wish I had your Wolverine jig with a slow speed grinder and CBN wheels, but I don't. 

Instead, I have one of the Grizzly wet grinders. I use several Tormek jigs on it. It works, and I get sharp tools, but it is slow and messy. I can take time away for sharpening, but I wish my system was easier and faster, especially for quick touch ups while turning. 

The problem with that round skew was that it was a perfectly round rod with a skew chisel end. Aside from the front edge itself, it was symmetrical. There were no sides or top or bottom on the round shaft to align with a sharpening jig. At the time, I really wanted an oval skew to make rolling it on the tool rest more controlled and easy compared with my flat skew. It seemed like the answer until my friend pointed out that there was no easy way to align the rotation of that round skew for sharpening. I passed on it. Some day I will add a 1 or 1-1/4 inch oval skew to my turning tools. For now, I am getting by with the 3/4 inch flat skew chisel. After getting that nick out (well, mostly), I can say that it is very sharp.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Jonzjob said:


> Did your friend say why they are difficult to sharpen TA?
> 
> I have a OneWay Wolverine set, like this watch and I have not had any problems with any of my skews or gouges. Mine came with the fingernail jig and it's just so very easy to use.
> 
> And this is the wheel that I use. Expensive, but well worth it! woodcut-tru-grind-cbn-grinding-wheel-150-x-25-x-12-7mm-180grit-504680


The link with the sharpening wheel, a popup would not go away and no way to make it go away so I didn't get to view the wheel. I hate where they are going to make a person accept their offer or not see the ad. Not me, I will just get off, I don't need to see their ad that bad.

T A I hadn't thought about sharpening a round skew like that, I sure see your point.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I never tried the round skew. My thinking is that it would be easier to rotate out of control and 'catch' easier than a flat skew on edge. Don't really know.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

As I said, someday I will get an oval skew. The $240 Alan Lacer skew is way more than I would be willing to pay. There are fine oval skews for less than half that price, and I doubt I could tell the difference while turning. 

I have seen homemade skew chisels. Some are fine, but some can be dangerous and scary. I remember one made from a file with an exposed thin tang above the handle. It was with other used turning tools at a club annual auction/swap meet. I pulled it out and showed it to our woodturning leader. His eyes got very big. He took it and put it in the trash can.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

In the way distant past, I have used old files for scrapers. Mainly for spindle work where there would not be mush stress on it. The problem was not ony the short tang but also I was told that it could snap and fly apart. Never experienced either problem. Probably because of light duty on spindles, 
It's bowls that I push to the limits.


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## Jonzjob (Oct 31, 2021)

The way that I use my OneWay to sharpen my round skews is to extend the l o n g bar until it's in the correct place to lay the skew on to the wheel and just start/stop the wheel to get the angle right. When I'm sure that's OK then I start the wheel and with my finger on the upper cutting edge face just lower the skew on to the wheel and let it find its own level. As long as you haven't let the skew get horribly dull/blunt, which should NEVER happen, the tool will just settle on to the wheel at the same angle as the lower, cutting, face. Then it comes from there to my DMT diamond whet stone for a quick finish. I also made a leather strop, but found it unnecessary most of the time.

My 1" skew is an oval jobbie and I use it quite a lot and it was especially useful for these knitting needles










The 'little ones' are black walnut, 25mm, middle black walnut are 30mm and the ones at the back are Accoya, 40mm and 50 cm long. An interesting commission and very good practice with the skew.

Edit : - I forgot to say TA that my oval skew is a real pleasure to use. I was given the little ½" skew by the bloke iI did a weekend box turning corse with about 25 years ago. That too is lovely to use and the square edges on the rectangular form were chamfered off at manufacture so as to give a lovely smooth transition when you lift it off of the flat. It just doesn't dig in to the tool rest, it just glides across it. That course is the only training I have had.


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## Jonzjob (Oct 31, 2021)

Something else that's perfect for you skew practice. Crochet hooks


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