# In Hind Sight..



## Locodcdude (Oct 24, 2010)

In Hind Sight, Looking back on my dust collection system, I feel that I could have used Galvanized HVAC pipe instead of using PVC drain pipe. The cost difference isn't huge, maybe a few dollars a length, and the possibilities are almost endless with the wide array of fittings they sell today. I only have 20 feet of ducting in my shop, and this is my first shop, so we live and we learn. But just a note for anyone else. If you're going to run a dust collection system, the cost of using galvanized duct isn't that different from using PVC. And to be honest, the galvanized stuff is built and designed for air movement, so if anything your CFM's are larger, and your collector will SUCK! So again, if your installing a system, use the galvanized vent pipe, get some metal tape, and some self taping screws. No leaks, no obnoxious fumes, and if need be, you can disassemble it without distress.

SIDE NOTE LOL!




"A little bit of lipstick and.."


----------



## Ledhead (Aug 3, 2009)

I have purchased HVAC snaploc pipe and fittings. I went with 26 guage 5" pipe (the inlet size on my Oneida cyclone), my wyes are 5x5x4's from KenCraft (about $20 each), with the 4" going to the tooling. I have yet to hook any of it up. I'm still in the final stages of my shop rebuild. But the HVAC pipe is going in in the next week or so.


----------



## JamesGlenn (Jan 25, 2011)

I used 6" 26ga HVAC ducting with some 4" drops to certain tools and 6" to others. Just finishing installing it all now, but it worked quite easily. I only used aluminum tape at the joints (so far).

Only issue is the wye's are backwards from the dedicated dust collection ones (spiral ducting). I just taped the inside as well to give it a smooth surface. 

Paid roughly $6.05 for 6x6x6 wyes and $5.84 for 6x6x4 wyes.
The 6"x60" snaplock pipe was $7.86 a piece.

Whole system for ducting cost me around $275, and that's for nearly 25-30ft of piping.

Keep you posted on how is goes.


----------



## Locodcdude (Oct 24, 2010)

Thank you guys, My system works for me, it's just PVC, but like I said, in hind sight, I would have used the furnace or HVAC piping had I know to think of using that. I really don't know why I didn't use it.. Next shop I guess!


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

The thing with metal for us is.........how gauldang fast you can fab a fitting.A Wye for example,in ANY angle or offset can be done in 15 or so minutes.There just isn't any expense.You pretty much have every tool with maybe the exception of a pop-rivet tool?Which BTW is better than screws.Their short length is much less likely to inhibit dust/air flow and general clogged'ness.Removal is also a little quicker than screws....you drill the head off.

If anyone needs a tutorial on Wye construction,let me know.It'll take longer to describe and/or take pics than one can be fabbed.Elbows,again...in ANY configuration takes a little more effort and a bead roller(100$)but are still pretty freakin fast.BW


----------



## Locodcdude (Oct 24, 2010)

I would like to learn how to make a wye if you're willing to explain. I can see using the skill in th next 5-10 years


----------



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

Locodcdude said:


> I would like to learn how to make a wye if you're willing to explain. I can see using the skill in th next 5-10 years


 
+1 on that!


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Give me a few days......gotta clear my plate a little.

But to start the process;Lets do a 6" with a 4" comin in at a 45.

Start with a pc of 6" duct,laying down and locked to a bench,which keeps it from rollin around....dosen't matter how long the 6 is but we will be working near one end.Its locked down because you need to scribe a cntr line thats 3" up from table on the side(where 4 is gonna connect)of the duct.Just a simple devider or compass will work.

Once thats done,you'll need to lock the 4 down and scribe up 2" on it.This needs to be done on both sides,locking it down to keep from rolling/moving.These now are the guide lines that must stay lined up with the scribe on the 6.

The bench in this case really is simply,just a pc of 3/4 ply...about 2'x3' should be a plenty.I use 11R finger clamps from visegrip and reach in from the end and click'r down.

The 3/4 ply gets lines drawn on it for:#1,keeping the 6 straight.#2,for setting the angle that the 4 is comin in at....in this case a 45* line is drawn on.But can be any angle really.

For this example theres no offset.IOWs the 4 is gonna be in plane with the 6,and center'd.SO,bein as 4 is 2 inches less than the 6 we'll need to block up the 4" duct.But it only needs to be blocked up,half of the difference.The formula looks like this;6-4,devide the sum in half.So the 4 is blocked up 1" off table.Your duct cntr lines should now be inline.And you still have both pcs on the drawn pencil lines on the ply.

Just visualize the above and when I take some pics it'll really come into focus.Ths first one you do will probably take about 1/2 hour.And if you make a template of the hole you're about to cut in the side of the 6(the template gets a cntr line drawn on for future work)any subsequent wyes should be about 15 minutes.BUT,I don't even do templates and got them down to 15......just sayin.BW


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Sorry,there were a cpl detours in part 1.Rips of 1/4" ply to use(in lieu of deviders/compass) as markers and excuse the steel plate.But you got the idea.I'm workin this into our busy schedule so taking pics near lunchtime,and outside messy shop.

Part 2

Alright next step is to "scribe" the 4 to the 6 with compass.And this particular scribe is an easy one....it only has to be close.Its a "fishmouth" in welding world(tubing joints).This scribe only has to be close because;once done it'll be held against the 6......mark aound the 4...ON the 6,with sharpie.Make this real accurate.

Now we can cut the hole in the 6,it has to be cut very accurately with snips because;The reason the 4's fishmouth didn't need to be all that great is,we're inserting the 4 into the opening cut in 6.Stick it in there about 3/4"..........making sure cntr marks are aligned,and you're on the desired angle.....carefully mark around the 4 exactly at the intersection of where its stuck in the 6.


This last sharpie line is what makes it all work.The "waste" or "excess" 3/4" thats out past this line will get a series of snips just up to the line.IOWs theres a bunch of snips goin all the way 'round the 4's fishmouth because we're gonna bend them over......once inside the 6.These little fingers are what holds it together.......then you run about 1/2 dz pop rivets into the fingers.BW


Edit to add:Like most things 'round here.....uhhhh,we're in a hurry.SO,theres a direct correlation between the general "roundness" of the individual pcs of duct and the actual holes they provide.IOWs,if the 6 is sorta squash'ed then the hole is gonna look a little lopsided.Doing this pictoral I'm more concerned with conveying the "notion" and in general,hurry'n the "blank" up.And is a very good reason to make templates,cause they'll compensate for "squash"...if you get my drift.


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Finished with a few rivets and a swipe of duct seal.BW


----------



## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

JamesGlenn said:


> I used 6" 26ga HVAC ducting with some 4" drops to certain tools and 6" to others. Just finishing installing it all now, but it worked quite easily. I only used aluminum tape at the joints (so far).
> 
> Only issue is the wye's are backwards from the dedicated dust collection ones (spiral ducting). I just taped the inside as well to give it a smooth surface.
> 
> ...


I have around $335 for 70' of 6" PVC. 4 wyes, 8 elbows made with (2) 45 put together 2 of which are for the chip collector. Also includes 7 short 4" drops. 

I prefer the PVC but that is a personal opinion and it was almost 1/2 what the galv would have cost which was about 1/2 of the spiral metal pipe cost.


----------

