# Cutting Door Casing 45 degrees



## glg54 (Mar 31, 2009)

I am replacing original 2-1/4" colonial casing with a larger 3-1/2" x 1-1/16" (Adams Casing) around my doors. I have done this many times with no problems. I have a 12" Hitachi miter saw. 

When I am now cutting the 45 degree angles on the casing the saw is not cutting a straight line. It actually has a curve to it with the middlle of the casing the high point (convex shape). 

Help! Why is it doing this? The blade isn't that old. Is this a blade issue? It is an 80 tooth carbide tip blade.

Thanks for any guidance.

Gary


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## Sawdustguy (Dec 30, 2008)

Sounds like the saw is not tracking straight or the blade is loose or the saw is not locked in the 45 degree setting.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Picture?


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

run the saw - look for blade wobble. make sure the stock isn't moving when you make your cut. the blade could be flexing, so take a sloooow cut. just some things to try.


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Blade may be too old or abused.. and you forgot about the time you cut that treated lumber or let somebody borrow it


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

TimPa said:


> run the saw - look for blade wobble. make sure the stock isn't moving when you make your cut. the blade could be flexing, so take a sloooow cut. just some things to try.


Blade wobble should average out and make a straight cut, just wide.

Flexing should also still be straight.

Stock moving should make all of the error in the same direction. Unless it moves one way and then moves back to the original position.

I cannot think of any rational explanation of what you have.

George


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Try cutting a 1°-2° back cut on the bevel and let us know what happens.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's either the blade or the saw...*

Let's try some different wood, maybe plywood or pine. Use a piece about 8" wide and that will magnify the issue. See what happens and pull the saw to the left as you cut across to eliminate any play in the slide or the hinge. Is it a slider?

Generally speaking, a deviation in the cut is a sign of a dull blade trying to avoid one side of the cut.

Next clean the blade thoroughly with a tar and pitch remover. Some folks use Easy Off, others use Purple Simple Green .... now there's an oxymoron. :blink: Reinstall and cut again and see if that made a difference. 

A new blade will be a more expensive fix and if the issue is a worn rail, bearing or hinge then that's money down the drain. If there is play in the slider or hinge that's a whole 'nother thread. :yes:


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## glg54 (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try these out on Sunday and let you know the results.

Gary


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## glg54 (Mar 31, 2009)

Could you provide more guidance on what you mean. Thanks


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Blade is dull, 80 tooth blades don't last long when chopping.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

georgec said:


> blade wobble should average out and make a straight cut, just wide. thats assuming the wobble is symmetric, i've seen it not.
> 
> flexing should also still be straight. really?
> 
> ...


ok then! i am listing some items that i have seen in the past that cause poor cuts on a miter saw!


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

What is the material.....:blink: and do you have any pictures?



B,


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## fshrmn43 (Apr 2, 2010)

Sounds like the board may have a slight cup to it.


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## windygorge (Feb 20, 2013)

Is the trim cupped or twisted ??


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## glg54 (Mar 31, 2009)

The trim is not cupped or twisted. It is primed pine. 

I did not get a chance to try suggestions above this past weekend since I had to go out of town.

I will try to take pictures and provide sometime this week.

Thanks again.


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

glg54 said:


> I am replacing original 2-1/4" colonial casing with a larger 3-1/2" x 1-1/16" (Adams Casing) around my doors. I have done this many times with no problems. I have a 12" Hitachi miter saw.
> 
> When I am now cutting the 45 degree angles on the casing the saw is not cutting a straight line. It actually has a curve to it with the middlle of the casing the high point (convex shape).
> 
> ...


I get the same thing with my Dewalt miter saw if I cut compound angle staves for lathe work. If I slow the cut to real slow, it improves. The blade deflects slightly as the teeth come in contact with a wider area of the wood. The start and finish of the cut, you only have a small blade area in contact with the piece, the middle a much greater cross sectional area.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Are you pulling or pushing? I had this problem with almost all my slider saws, it's annoying. Not much you can do about it besides try a brand new blade.

Finally found a saw that doesn't do this, Bosch Glide.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Yes,......"The Glide"........
I really like the Bosch GCM12SD,...:


However,...

What I don't understand is the UK has a version of the GCM12SD with a built in laser and the US version is without, .:blink: It Also has the 220vlt option.......

Know what I mean..........

We have 220 , :blink:,we like lasers..:blink:......what's up with that!...:thumbdown:


B,


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I agree with the lack of laser.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Even toasters are 240v in EU.


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## glg54 (Mar 31, 2009)

I'm pulling.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*did you try a new blade?*

It's really your best choice at this point. If the saw has sloppy bearings it's not gonna be any good for much, but you will still be able to use your new blade on the next one, assuming the 1" bore is the same. All the answers in the world here are just speculation until the blade issue is ruled out, especially when it worked fine before ...unless you or someone dropped it. 

And as Hammer1 said don't use an 80 tooth and expect a long life. I have an 80 on my Dewalt 12" and it's still working OK, but doesn't see a lot of daily use.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It could be just a dull blade, or a loose arbor nut. For most mouldings...crown trim, base, I use a 60T. For fine or delicate moulding an 80T.









 







.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

glg54 said:


> I'm pulling.


If it's a slider saw (not radial arm) then to get the best cuts you should be pushing. As long as you have a negative rake blade (-5º) your cut should be pretty clean top and bottom.


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## windygorge (Feb 20, 2013)

If you ever buy a blade you need to buy a triple chip. Best blade to use for cutting any kind of wood with minimal chip out. Guaranteed. All around best blade.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

Leo G said:


> If it's a slider saw (not radial arm) then to get the best cuts you should be pushing. As long as you have a negative rake blade (-5º) your cut should be pretty clean top and bottom.


That's certainly the procedure described in the manual of our dewalt 718 scms. i questioned it a few years back, beacuse in my thoughts, starting the cut with the saw pulled out will enter the wood with an upstroke, potentially lifting the wood. then i saw that the manual _also_ describes that the wood should be clamped to the table for this cut.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

If your blade is sharp and you hold the pc down you should almost never have problems. The only time you might is if the kerf closes down on the sawblade because the board is stressed. That's something that is hard to predict until it happens. I've really never had a pc get lifted. The saw motors really aren't that strong, they depend on a sharp blade.

If you start talking about professional cut saws like the Omga then you are talking about a saw with a real motor and not these universal motors that can be bogged down pretty easy.

Just be careful and go slow, let the sawblade cut the wood. If you don't go faster than that you should never have issues.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Pulling to cut with a scms is just asking for anything but the right thing to happen.


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## windygorge (Feb 20, 2013)

There is no reason to use the slider if the trim is only 3 1/4. Just use it as a chop saw. Try putting a wooden fence on your saw to reduce the gap on the stock fence. It will reduce or eliminate chip out. Another way to get better cuts is to precut. Cut a hair past the line to remove the bulk of material, then cut again on the line. Again, find and use a triple chip saw blade. You will never go back to the others.:thumbsup:


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## windygorge (Feb 20, 2013)

And like Warner said, never pull, always push. Terrible things can happen, especially working on hardwoods.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Warner said this :blink:


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## rrbell (Oct 22, 2012)

I've used a slider for years and always bring my blade down to the wood, cut about halfway through with a pull and then push back through to finish the cut. You get clean cuts both top and bottom and as long as you keep a sharp blade on it never have any deflection or kickbacks.


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## windygorge (Feb 20, 2013)

Leo G said:


> Warner said this :blink:


you said it to leo. sorry:sad:


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## Glalonde (Jun 11, 2011)

I'd say your blade is flexing. Make a nice slow even cut. You shouldn't have a problem.


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## Hwood (Oct 21, 2011)

Blade, replace it. I have had brand new blades that run off so bad to one direction they will have to go in the garbage. As much as I love a thin blade there are times when some thing is off a bit and they don't cut just right and flex. Was but a year ago I had the same thing as you going on.


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## J Thomas (Aug 14, 2012)

Have you ever had a kickback with it?? That could cause the guide rails to be bent slightly which would throw things off.
..Jon..


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