# Finishing luan mahogany



## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Stemming from this:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/help-me-identify-wood-22128/

Well I plan on stripping the rest of the end table and possibly reselling it. I'll probably use a darker stain, I'm thinking a redwood or walnut. I'm getting some conflicting google info though. Some people say this is the hardest wood to stain out there, some people say its the easiest. Do they just mean it is the hardest of the mahoganys?


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Mahogany is prone to blotching, use a conditioner. :yes:


----------



## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Will a minwax conditioner do, or a 50/50 shellac/alcohol, something else?


----------



## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

ms straight will work fine, just stain within 30 min.
laun mahogany is low grade mahog from the philippines. usually used in furniture and staind dark. it is softer than other mahog and is a little more dif to re finish. ( some grain holds alot of stain and hard to get out ).


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cheese9988 said:


> Some people say this is the hardest wood to stain out there, some people say its the easiest. Do they just mean it is the hardest of the mahoganys?


The reference to Luan IMO would be that it's the hardest to stain because it's so soft, and the type of grain it has. There are many types of "Luan" and most have not much variance to the grain. When stained it just can turn dark. You may try a very thinned version of whatever stain you are using.



jack warner said:


> ms straight will work fine, just stain within 30 min.
> laun mahogany is low grade mahog from the philippines. usually used in furniture and staind dark. it is softer than other mahog and is a little more dif to re finish. ( some grain holds alot of stain and hard to get out ).



How do you figure mineral spirits will act as a conditioner. I hate to disagree with you because you are such a nice guy. But I think you have it mixed up with something else. 

There are some packaged conditioners that are recommended for water base stains, and some that are to be used with oil base stains. If you mix your own or use any sealer of sorts as a conditioner, it's possible to get the wood sealed beyond taking sufficient stain to get a desired finish. There's a balance with minimal sealing and stain penetration.












 









.


----------



## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

no-no mix up. ive been using ms for pre stain for 25 yrs. very effectivly.
now this is for use with oil stains and topcoats, and my stains are 99.9% of the time gel. i dont use water based products. i save the water based stuff for faux work.
to answer the ?. ms fills the deeper pours so that stain will not penetrate. thats why stainning shortly after treating.

i never seal the wood b4 staining. unless im doing a glaze. or some kind of faux finish


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jack warner said:


> to answer the ?. ms fills the deeper pours so that stain will not penetrate. thats why stainning shortly after treating.



Mineral spirits is a solvent that won't fill anything so to speak...it evaporates. 












 









.


----------



## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

ms is a petroleum distillate. and slow drying. compared to other thinners.
it stays in the grain long enough to prevent stain penitration.
great method for pine b4 staining.


----------



## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I might be wrong but I am under the impression that Luan also known as Phillopine Mahogany is not a mahogany at all but actually a form of cedar. Whe stained with mahogany stain, it looks just like real (Honduras) mahogany. 
Anyway, I have never had a problem with blotchyness on Phillopine. It stains quite well as far as I am concerned.
Unfortunately, this doesnt help Cheese - too much conflicting info here.


----------

