# Restoration - Powermatic 66 Table saw



## difalkner

This will be a long post, be forewarned. You may or may not follow along, you may get bored, you may look at the photos only and never read a word of what I write, you may look at this and wonder why I even tried to restore this saw (and jointer but I won't be covering the jointer here), but I can pretty much guarantee you'll like the results of my efforts. So dive in, gander at what you want, offer comments, or just come back once in a while to see what I've done - I took over 300 photos but I won't inundate you with all those. I will post about 70, though. 

This post is more about me documenting what I've done to restore these tools and wanting to share the process than seeking guidance or help. You'll see things you may have done differently or not at all but I do hope you enjoy the trip - David

Here's the background and a prerequisite for understanding how all this took place - 

Several times I have mentioned in posts that I owned a woodworking business in the mid 80's to early 90's. I partnered with an old friend in the late 80's and we were a good fit together for the work we did. It was a good business and at one time we had about 8 people working for us. In 1990 we bought a Powermatic Model 66 table saw and a Delta DJ-15 jointer. When I decided a few years later to get into the Technology field my partner and I worked out a deal for my exit, for the business I had brought in, and since I owned all the other tools anyway I wanted access to the shop for my own projects. 

Well, a year went by and he did decide to close the business but I had no home shop or place to store the saw and jointer. But another friend in the same business needed both and asked if he could use them. He had done some work in our shop before and even rented some space from us at one point. He used our/my tools and took good care of them. So I decided to let this other friend take both tools to his shop and for the next few years I checked in on my tools often. Then it got to the point where I checked on them every few years. Finally, after many years of not seeing them and still not having a home shop, I sort of wrote them off.

Then, a few years ago, a friend at church told me he heard that the guy who had borrowed my saw and jointer had abandoned them in an old building, that the motors were burnt up, and they were likely just boat anchors now. I viewed it as my fault for not checking on them and my fault for even loaning tools like that out - stupid move, really.

I found out where they tools were located and couldn't believe where they were and what I found. A woodworker friend, Adam, went with me figuring we'd find the tools covered in sawdust and just neglected. We were not prepared for what we found.

Looks like a vibrant neighborhood from the front, right? I was concerned about even having my MINI parked there!








I looked in through the broken glass and iron bars and saw this - 








Driving around back we saw this locked door - 








I couldn't get my phone in very far but I took this shot. If you look closely you'll see a contractors table saw in the dark area to the left. My saw and jointer aren't really visible but they are behind the contractors saw. The sunlight shining in is not from a skylight. The roof is simply missing in several areas, including where my saw and jointer were parked.








We left and came back in Adam's truck and I had a guy who had worked there meet us because he had the combination to the lock to get us in the back door. Adam and I loaded the saw and jointer into the back of his truck by ourselves - these are HEAVY tools! And I was still in my dress clothes, didn't even take my tie off. We stopped for a bite to eat and I snapped this shot - one guy walked by and asked if we were headed to the dump. :thumbdown: Uh, nope!








More soon... David


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## ryan50hrl

I'm hooked...


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## Dovetails

This is gonna be cool. Thanks.


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## difalkner

We got the tools home and into my garage where I could really see how bad they were. The saw was directly under where the roof had been leaking, apparently for quite some time. This is some seriously deep rust! I know a lot of people would have just given up at this point but I *do* like a challenge. One thing I found that I knew I would have to deal with at some point is that the center was about 0.090" below the perimeter of the table corner to corner and about 0.075" across the middle. I couldn't tell if it was rust build up on the perimeter or if the saw top actually dipped that much near the blade. All I could do is clean it up and see what I had to deal with.








I started by dry sanding with 80 grit. A *LOT* of dry sanding with 80 grit.








I switched to finer and finer grits, even using a 1/3 sheet air operated orbital sander with wet/dry paper and WD40 with 3 in 1 oil. After a couple of weeks doing this just about every night and as much as I could squeeze in on weekends, I got it cleaned up enough to move on to the inside. When I got it to this point I measured again and found the dip in the center from corner to corner was down to below 0.050" and across the middle was down below 0.030" so some of that had to be rust build up. That's still not close enough but it's going the right way.








When I took the top off this is what I found - 








Everything was locked with rust, seized as it could be. Even the arbor would not turn. I worked on it three weeks to get the trunnion to move a half inch. Then little by little with progressive pounding using dead blow hammers, heavy mallets on blocks of wood, lubricants, penetrants, and chipping away at what I could I finally got the trunnion free to move, albeit tightly.








More tomorrow. Thanks for following along! 
David


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## ryan50hrl

Wow.....that was trashed.


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## Ian1957

I am on the line. Looking forward to seeing the end result.


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## BigJim

When you get that saw all working back up and running, you are going to love it. I love a good challenge also, looking good so far.


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## Steve Neul

Gees, I thought I had bad luck loaning out tools. What has the guy have to say that you loaned them too?


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## woodchux

You indeed do have a challenge!!! Could some of that damage (to building/material/equipment) be caused by storms/flooding in that area? Hope this was all legal to remove items, although as you claim were yours "out on loan"! Looking forward to more posts of your progress. Be safe.


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## difalkner

Steve Neul said:


> What has the guy have to say that you loaned them too?


It was a real heartfelt conversation, Steve. He called to learn how I found out about my tools. Almost as an afterthought, he apologized as though he just bumped into me in crowd. 'Sorry 'bout that' was about all he said. He did add that he probably should have called me. I pointed out he 'probably' should have taken care of them. 




woodchux said:


> You indeed do have a challenge!!! Could some of that damage (to building/material/equipment) be caused by storms/flooding in that area? Hope this was all legal to remove items, although as you claim were yours "out on loan"! Looking forward to more posts of your progress. Be safe.


No sir, the roof was simply neglected on this old building. I'm in northwest Louisiana, nowhere near the coast or flooding. They had been working around the leaks for a year from what I was told. Except for where my tools were stored. They didn't bother moving or covering those to avoid the leaks. The landlord had given them two weeks to get their tools out before he put everything in the dumpster, so it was cool we took them out.


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## difalkner

After getting the trunnion to move I felt there was hope after all, that I could get this fine tool back into working shape. Until I tried to get the pulley off the arbor, that is. I used penetrants, mild heat, dead blow hammer, heavy mallet on blocks of wood - basically anything I could think of to get that pulley off. No luck, no success, no movement at all... for over a month. Almost every evening, just about every weekend, I would try to get this pulley off.








Alternately I turned my attention to getting the height adjustment shaft out of the trunnion. I finally got it to rotate but it was bent and would not come out. It would move back and forth a little bit but I couldn't drive it out. I think when it was loaned out they must have dropped the saw or in some fashion bumped it pretty hard, maybe it leaned hard in their truck - I don't know. There was a mark on the handwheel and the knob was slightly bent.

Because I was having to pry/hit/pound so hard to get it to move I figured I'd better give it some support, so I bandsawed this little Maple block to make me feel better about hitting on it so hard. :thumbsup:








I began trying to straighten the bent portion of the shaft and finally resorted to filing it down so I could remove it from the trunnion. But the first thing I did after that was order a new shaft and worm gear - $14, not too bad!

Next, I took everything out of cabinet - 








And then every fastener and piece removable came out - 








Now over on my workbench I got back on the pulley. Same technique of penetrants, puller, etc. and after another week or so it came off - whew! I didn't want to have to order that assembly 'cause I think it was a bit more pricey than the shaft I ordered.








The good thing at this point is that all the pounding had not damaged or broken any piece. Only the bent shaft needed replacing.


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## Steve Neul

difalkner said:


> It was a real heartfelt conversation, Steve. He called to learn how I found out about my tools. Almost as an afterthought, he apologized as though he just bumped into me in crowd. 'Sorry 'bout that' was about all he said. He did add that he probably should have called me. I pointed out he 'probably' should have taken care of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No sir, the roof was simply neglected on this old building. I'm in northwest Louisiana, nowhere near the coast or flooding. They had been working around the leaks for a year from what I was told. Except for where my tools were stored. They didn't bother moving or covering those to avoid the leaks. The landlord had given them two weeks to get their tools out before he put everything in the dumpster, so it was cool we took them out.


I'm sure he offered to help you fix them didn't he? :laughing:


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## difalkner

Steve Neul said:


> I'm sure he offered to help you fix them didn't he? :laughing:


 Absolutely! Just like he's called every month or so to see if I got them back in working order.


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## Steve Neul

I guess it is just the changing times. I grew up and lived around folks from the WWII generation and older. I won't borrow anything from anyone regardless of how bad I might need it for fear something might happen to it while I have it. Now nobody gives a damn about anybody.


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## difalkner

I borrowed a portable AC unit from a friend and he mentioned that he'd like to one day build a directional vent on top so it blows straight out instead of up. While it was in my shop I built that unit for him. I made it out of 1/8" clear Acrylic sheet, curved to direct the air flow, and also took the internal filters out and cleaned them (he didn't know it had internal filters). I also found and printed the owner's manual, duplexed and in color, so he'd have that for reference.

When I took the unit back to him he was shocked, saying that he had a few other things I could borrow and 'fix' for him! I think that's the way you borrow something, when and if you have to. Return it in as good as or better condition than it was when you borrowed it. But I'm afraid, Steve, that people don't do that very much nowadays.


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## BigJim

difalkner, please forgive me for not reading all of your original post about you loaning your tools to a friend's buddy, I can empathize with you there. I had a similar experience where my business partner took over half of my tools when our business folded, only I never got them back. I had trained this fellow in house building, trim work, stair building and cabinet work. He went out on his own and later after I had started the business, his wife died. I felt sorry for him and took him in as a business partner and taught him about this business and furnished all the tools, building and finance. 

The rest is history, I was angry, as I am sure you are also. I just let it go as bad as I wanted to retaliate. 

I am really sorry that you are having to do the work that should never have had to be done in the first place.


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## difalkner

BigJim said:


> difalkner, please forgive me for not reading all of your original post about you loaning your tools...
> 
> The rest is history, I was angry, as I am sure you are also. I just let it go as bad as I wanted to retaliate.
> 
> I am really sorry that you are having to do the work that should never have had to be done in the first place.


You mean my novella? :laughing: I can't believe you didn't read all that!! 

No sir, not angry at all. It's not in me to let someone else dictate my emotions. Disappointed in his lack of respect for another's property, yes. I thought he was better than that. If he called me today and said he needed some boards cut I'd tell him to bring them over and I would not mention all of this unless he asked - it would serve no purpose. 

If I had my druthers I would not have had to do this restoration but it has been a blast, a very enjoyable experience. I'm glad I gained the experience on this saw (and the jointer) but now I'm ready to do some woodworking in my shop, not equipment repair. 

Like this shameless plug for my build thread, my first project using the saw - http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/build-thread-mahogany-birdseye-maple-padauk-71161/


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## BigJim

difalkner said:


> You mean my novella? :laughing: I can't believe you didn't read all that!!
> 
> No sir, not angry at all. It's not in me to let someone else dictate my emotions. Disappointed in his lack of respect for another's property, yes. I thought he was better than that. If he called me today and said he needed some boards cut I'd tell him to bring them over and I would not mention all of this unless he asked - it would serve no purpose.
> 
> If I had my druthers I would not have had to do this restoration but it has been a blast, a very enjoyable experience. I'm glad I gained the experience on this saw (and the jointer) but now I'm ready to do some woodworking in my shop, not equipment repair.
> 
> Like this shameless plug for my build thread, my first project using the saw - http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/build-thread-mahogany-birdseye-maple-padauk-71161/


You are one rare person David, that is very commendable, I hope to have an attitude like your's one day as well, still working on it. 

That is a beautiful build, that is really going to look good.


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## Chamfer

This thread is the definition of good ol' fashioned elbow grease and decency.

Nice resto and great attitude!


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## difalkner

Thanks, guys - just having fun doing some woodworking and equipment repair.

The cabinet is now stripped of all parts and cleaned as good as I could get it but there's WAY too much rust to paint over. At this point I figured my only choice was sandblasting. Until I got everything off I thought there might some remote possibility that I could wire brush it and primer heavy but that would never really work.








Here's the fence in all its glory - 








Not really usable as is, I'm thinking. 








And I can't even *begin* to see through this cursor. The brown specks are paint although it's hard to see that in the photo. But I figured I could replace the plastic without much effort.








Here's the bottom side of the rail tube. I assume water stood for long periods between this and the angle iron rail. Pretty badly pitted. This is after quite a bit of cleaning, sanding, etc. It was almost as rusty as the top although cast iron has its own look with rust that's a little different from a steel tube.








More in a little bit - David


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## ryan50hrl

That fence is pretty easily rebuilt I'd think.....you're not planning on replacing are you?


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## difalkner

ryan50hrl said:


> That fence is pretty easily rebuilt I'd think.....you're not planning on replacing are you?


 No sir, not at all.


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## woodnthings

*I'm thinkin' belt sander here*

A belt sander will make quick work of the rust here and leave "scratches" in the proper orientation running length wise.


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## difalkner

I asked Adam, my friend who helped me retrieve the saw and jointer, if he knew a good sandblaster. Turns out he had used a shop 5 minutes from my house. The guy was really nice and as I described the saw and its parts he just said he'd do it for $100, that he didn't need to know how many pieces. 

So I began prepping everything for sandblasting. I can assure you that this takes a long time if you do it right. Each piece had to be thoroughly cleaned with Naphtha to ensure the duct tape would stay in place through the blasting. Prepping each piece with duct tape trimmed precisely where I did *not* want any blasting - machined surfaces, through holes for shafts, gears, etc. After all, if they blasted an area that I had not intended then it would have been my fault for not protecting it good enough.

I used cardboard secured with duct tape for the top and extension wings. Also, I wanted to preserve as much of the labels and Powermatic markings as possible, so I taped those off, as well.

After two nights working several hours each night and most of Saturday, I had the pieces ready.








Prepped and ready for blasting -








We took the saw in on Monday morning and they said it would take 3-4 business days to get to the saw for blasting. That worked out well for my timing to clean up in the garage and get ready for the saw to return. Only thing is they called Monday afternoon the *same* day about 4 and said it's ready and they close at 5. Oh, and it was about to rain so they suggested I come get it now before it starts to rust again. LOL! Quick service isn't always what you want :no:. 

Adam and his truck were in town and available at that time so this all worked out for both of us. He lives 45 miles away and very little of this would fit in my MINI...

Parts back from blasting - 








Another view. I didn't send the plate that the magnetic starter mounts on because I wanted to use that to match the Powermatic Gold paint. The panel under the starter had never seen daylight and was not faded, rusted, or marked up.


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## difalkner

woodnthings said:


> A belt sander will make quick work of the rust here and leave "scratches" in the proper orientation running length wise.


 Yes sir, but that's on the bottom side and won't be seen.


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## BigJim

You would never know those were the same parts.


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## Steve Neul

The railing for the fence I would consider replacing. More than likely the tubular steel on the railing is a stock size and it would give you the opportunity to make a longer one than you had. You could also get some additional extension or two to mount on the left side of the saw like I did with my unisaw.

As badly as the base of the saw was rusted even though it was sandblasted it will tend to rust back even under the new paint. I think your best chance of keeping the rust gone is to prime the base with an epoxy primer. Then any pitting can be filled with bondo over the primer and once leveled put another coat of epoxy primer over the top.


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## Fastback

Your doing a real nice job on this rehab. You know, on some of the metal with deep pits like on the fence you can do the repairs with some auto Bondo. I know it adds work, but it will be as good as original after the repair. Wish you continued luck on the repair.

Paul


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## adot45

Very enjoyable to watch your progress, I love these kinds of restoration threads.


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## woodnthings

*stopping rust from returning*



Steve Neul said:


> As badly as the base of the saw was rusted even though *it was sandblasted it will tend to rust back even under the new paint*. I think your best chance of keeping the rust gone is to prime the base with an epoxy primer. Then any pitting can be filled with bondo over the primer and once leveled put another coat of epoxy primer over the top.


I've done my share of painting over blasted metal and I use an Self Etching Primer, it's green. You want the paint to adhere to the bare metal really well. It won't rust again if you blasted away all previous rust. Here's a quote from a car forum:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=5965732

wow, Yes it's ok to use etch primer first on bare metal, it's recomended.

First off I don't see any difference between blasted and sanded ground metal. it get's treated the same imo.

I have done lots of sand/media blasting and paint work over the years(25). 

As soon as I'm done blasting when I have bare white metal before I even touch it, I paint it. The first coat of paint is etching primer. 1 light coat, it's translucent and provides a chemical advantage for top coats. Then within 1 hour or so the second and third coats are epoxy primer. Then at that point within 24 hours if I can, I apply the top coat without any scuffing or sanding. Like say the bottem of your car or inside the car. Wet on wet is best for best results.

Some people will say epoxy directly on bare blasted metal but using etch primer first is better.

Once your metal is blasted bare, you want to coat it fast and definety don't touch it or pre treat with anything, as it as clean as can be after blasting.

I've done entire cars and trucks with the above procedure and still own some of the trucks that I painted 15 years ago. I know what holds up.
Got lot's of pictures of my work.

My 71 has etch primer all over it.


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## Steve Neul

I don't agree the etching primer is better. It just contains phosphoric acid which eats into the smooth surface of the metal and aids the adhesion. The sandblasting alone does far better to aid adhesion than the phosphoric acid could ever do. The problem with this level of rust is it has penetrated into the metal far deeper than the sandblasting is capable of removing and the etching primer and paint isn't completely waterproof. Moisture from the air will penetrate through the paint and primer and re-activate the rusting process. You just don't see it because it is rusting underneath the paint. With an epoxy primer it seals the metal off completely waterproof putting a barrier over the metal so when the moisture goes through the paint it stops at the primer.


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## difalkner

You guys have some great suggestions but since I had to pick it up before I was ready and it was about to rain, I used rattle can primer and covered every piece that same day. 

Primer in a hurry before rain and rust coming back -








Then I started looking for a match to the Powermatic Gold. Before anyone bothers to tell me, I have searched and searched and found all sorts of paint formulas and recipes and I've been to automotive paint stores looking for something that would be an exact match. I was not willing to settle for 'close' and I certainly wasn't going to paint it Powermatic Mustard Yellow or whatever it's called. My jointer is that color and it's fine for that but this saw is a 1990 and came in PM Gold so that's what I wanted.

Several automotive paint stores locally said they could get a perfect match but the cost was around $150 for the catalyzed finishes and clear coats they recommended. I'm too frugal (cheap) to spend that much on paint for a table saw. So I kept searching... for two years the saw sat in the shop, primed and ready. I painted all the internal pieces black right away and they were ready. Each time my daughter asked me to build her a small table or something I just said, 'When I get the table saw together' and it sort of became a standing joke around here.

But still it sat on its side, like this, for two years. 








At least I had done all the body work right after I primed it, so that was out of the way.








More Bondo work - 








I used the side of the cabinet as a resting spot for small pieces and the inside for parts and sandpaper storage. It had become a fixture in the shop, sad to say.

Then, after two years, I announced to my wife that I had decided on black and would start painting right away (late October 2014). She just laughed and said she would have painted it black two years earlier if it had been up to her. 

But I decided I wanted the inside of the cabinet white for higher reflectance when I needed to see inside there. I no longer have those young eyes that can see in low light so white made sense.


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## Dovetails

This is a fun thread... Mostly because this process started several years ago, and we are getting to fast forward through all of your frustrations, but we still don't know the outcome... Although I have a pretty good idea.


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## Steve Neul

You might talk to Sherwin Williams about Sher-Kem enamel. It may be a cheaper alternative to automotive paint. It is formulated to be used on farm implements and industrial applications like dumpsters that take a lot of abuse.


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## difalkner

Steve Neul said:


> You might talk to Sherwin Williams about Sher-Kem enamel. It may be a cheaper alternative to automotive paint. It is formulated to be used on farm implements and industrial applications like dumpsters that take a lot of abuse.


I talked to them early on, Steve, but the PM Gold has a slight metallic and they said it was only possible with automotive finishes. The current PM yellow color has no metallic and is very easy to match. And PM will only sell you rattle cans for the old color at about $25 each shipped (I think it's $19/can + shipping). The color would have been perfect, they said, but it would take 4 cans minimum and I just flat refused to pay that for rattle cans.


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## difalkner

New color on the left, 1990 Gold on the right -


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## difalkner

Dovetails said:


> This is a fun thread... Mostly because this process started several years ago, and we are getting to fast forward through all of your frustrations, but we still don't know the outcome... Although I have a pretty good idea.


I'm glad you're enjoying it! Yeah, you don't want that 3 year ride on this...  

Continuing on with painting everything in sight! Everything in white was brushed on very heavy and followed up with Rust-Oleum in rattle cans - High Performance White.

Underside of table -








Underside of extension wings -








Moved it back to my spray booth for the cabinet (outside in the back yard, at night no less). I used Rust-Oleum High Performance Gloss Black Enamel in rattle cans from Lowe's. These have a decent spray tip and it went on well, smooth.








Brought it inside after two good heavy coats. No bugs, no drips, no runs, no errors. I also caulked with black Silicone every gap in the base to the cabinet, every void in welding, every place where two pieces meet and didn't close up precisely. I have thoughts of later creating as close to negative pressure inside the cabinet as possible for dust control, although that may be a pie in the sky dream and is definitely not on the front burner. But sealing these up now was certainly easier than later with everything installed.


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## Steve Neul

The old powermatic was intended to empty the dust with a shovel. Before you go any farther if you want to modify it for dust control I would have a sheet metal shop fabricate a shoot to install on the inside and cut a 4" hole in the back or side to fit a pipe for a vacuum hose. 

As far as the metalic paint only being able to be done in an automotive paint is a bunch of bull. It's just a pigment mixed with metal flake. I think the powermatic yellow could have been made with aluminum paint mixed with gold bronzing powder and yellow oxide color tint.


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## ryan50hrl

I have the feeling this project is already done as its progressing pretty quick on here.


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## woodnthings

*That black is stunning!*

It will show the dust however....just sayin' :laughing: It's a beauty.

Yes, how did this sit for 2 years being a storage unit and you are just posting it now, as if you are busting your butt to get it finished, OR did we miss something? :blink:

So the photos will read "before" and "after"?
Are you sayin' you didn't have a table saw for 2 years? 
How did that work?


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## difalkner

Steve Neul said:


> The old powermatic was intended to empty the dust with a shovel. Before you go any farther if you want to modify it for dust control I would have a sheet metal shop fabricate a shoot to install on the inside and cut a 4" hole in the back or side to fit a pipe for a vacuum hose.
> 
> *Yes sir, that's what I intended to do. But I always think I can do just a bit better so it's still rolling around in my head what I might want to do. Shovel is how we used to empty it, btw.*
> 
> As far as the metalic paint only being able to be done in an automotive paint is a bunch of bull. It's just a pigment mixed with metal flake. I think the powermatic yellow could have been made with aluminum paint mixed with gold bronzing powder and yellow oxide color tint.
> 
> *I know. Painted for years and years but when they say, 'Go to the automotive store' they either didn't want to do it or couldn't. After a while it became a non-issue. I looked at bronzing powders and all that but wasn't interested in messing with it past a certain point.*






ryan50hrl said:


> I have the feeling this project is already done as its progressing pretty quick on here.





ryan50hrl said:


> *Finished.*






woodnthings said:


> It will show the dust however....just sayin' It's a beauty. *Thanks, it does show dust but I knew it would.*
> 
> Yes, how did this sit for 2 years being a storage unit and you are just posting it now, as if you are busting your butt to get it finished, OR did we miss something? *I have a bit too much stubborn in me and sometimes a bit too much patience. I had to wrestle in my mind what color to paint it and was in no hurry. *
> 
> So the photos will read "before" and "after"?
> Are you sayin' you didn't have a table saw for 2 years?
> How did that work?





woodnthings said:


> *Right. No table saw at all except this carcass of one setting right there staring at me. But I didn't let that stop me. If you go back and look at the projects I posted, the opinions I voiced over getting a bandsaw, etc., you'll see that I did everything on the bandsaw/jointer/planer. But I don't do sheet goods and don't build cabinets. Although I need to build some for my shop...*


More photos to follow after church tonight - David


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## Joe in MI

Waiting.....this is almost as bad as waiting for the next episode of The Walking Dead.


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## ryan50hrl

No kidding. It's like waiting for paint to dry.


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## difalkner

ryan50hrl said:


> No kidding. It's like waiting for paint to dry.


LOL! It's not that bad, only been a day or two. It was 3 years for me. 

Ok, back to the project saw and restoration.

Here's a sample of the cleanup process. This worm gear was encrusted with what seemed to be the equivalent of concrete. This packed sawdust/grease/rust combo would not soak off with any number of solvents I tried, would not wire wheel or wire brush by hand off, and I couldn't budge any of it with compressed air. What I ended up doing, for *3* hours one night, was to use a small brass rod sharpened on the end like a chisel and chip away at what seemed like each molecule of the crud. My hands were sore!








After 3 hours it looked like this - 








Many parts required the same attention to get cleaned and ready for assembly. No single part came clean with a good soaking in solvents or wire brushing. Every part required a lot of time and there were nights, like this worm gear, where I cleaned one part only.

Here is my layout table with parts, some ready and some soon to be.








I believe all of these are ready. And I got lucky on the angle scale. There was a blemish on it and when I tried to get it off it just started getting bigger, which wasn't cool. But then I looked a little closer and realized it still had the protective plastic on it from 1990. I peeled it off and there was a brand new angle scale under there! :thumbsup:








Remember that height shaft that was bent and I had to support it with a wood wedge block because I was having to beat it out of the trunnion? And remember I said one of the first things I did was to order a new one? Well, *I* didn't remember the 'part ordering' because it happened two years ago. As I was laying out all the items for assembly I came across a bag I had not seen with some parts. Lo and behold there was a new shaft and worm gear... the *same* worm gear I had spent 3 hours cleaning a couple of days earlier!! :glare: Bummer! Of course, those are new bearings on the arbor.


----------



## Bleedinblue

ryan50hrl said:


> I have the feeling this project is already done as its progressing pretty quick on here.


This.

All of the advice being shelled out here is no doubt a waste of time.


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## difalkner

Bleedinblue said:


> This.
> 
> All of the advice being shelled out here is no doubt a waste of time.


Oh, I don't know about that. *Somebody* will get something from the advice and use it on their own projects. There's a wealth of knowledge being poured out here.


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## BigJim

That is beautiful, I love seeing old things brought back to life.


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## woodnthings

*Yup*

Spend some time in the Senior Center Emergency Room. 



BigJim said:


> That is beautiful, I love seeing old things brought back to life.


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## BigJim

woodnthings said:


> Spend some time in the Senior Center Emergency Room.


I have Bill, but not as an observer.


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## epicfail48

woodnthings said:


> Spend some time in the Senior Center Emergency Room.


That... that was just wrong

I laughed way too hard at that


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## difalkner

You guys crack me up!


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## difalkner

Here are the parts laid out for assembly, including 3 different sets from different years of PM manuals on the 66. Even though I have a reprint from 1990 none of these show the three belt pulley. But that's ok, I figured out where the third belt went... 








I didn't show this earlier but the only clean portion on my old rust bucket of a saw was the magnetic starter. When I pulled the cover off I was quite surprised to find not only how clean and dust free it was, but also the original wiring diagram tucked neatly in the lower right corner.








Since I couldn't get a match for the PM Gold I wanted to preserve some little facet of the original color, so I masked off an area under the starter in case I ever want to go back and look at it for matching later (doubtful).








The trunnion, remember, took many weeks to even get it to move when I first started this project a couple of years ago. Well, when I put the trunnion back in I expected it to move rather freely - it didn't. Because I wanted it as freely moving as possible I started shimming the mounting brackets/bearings until it moved as I expected. I have some 0.003" brass shim stock and I used three pieces on the right and two on the left, if I remember correctly. You have to be very careful each time you loosen the bolts and raise the flange or it will move left/right and then you have to start all over. As you can imagine, this took a while but I think it's worth the effort.








This is how it moved when I first mounted it - 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZSGsB71Mzs

And after shimming, and a couple hours of tweaking, it moved like this - 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1O9nWHX1Dz0


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## difalkner

One thing I failed to mention is all the fasteners required to put this back together. There were only a few specialty fasteners I reused but I went with a list of all the nuts, bolts, washers, set screws, etc. to an old fastener company and they had all but a few items. It's a neat place if you've never been to a true fastener supply company. We used to have a few around here but now there's only one, but I handed them the list and for the next 20-25 minutes or so the young man individually bagged and wrote on each what the bag contained. Total invoice for this - about $14. Fabulous! :thumbsup:








As you can imagine, there was a LOT of this - cleaning threads after the sandblasting, rust, and painting. Most of it I did prior to assembly but I forgot about some, like this one, and had to do it in place around what was already installed.








My friends will pick on me for the detail I go to on a project but they love it when I help them with their projects.  Here's an example on the start/stop switches. I couldn't leave this looking dingy so I pulled them out of the starter box and cleaned best I could but in the end I needed to repaint the lettering bright white.

Before/during - 








After - 








I know it will run better with the lettering properly tended to... :thumbsup:

We're almost finished. I promise I'm not dragging this out but I've been in the shop all evening and no time to sit down and work on this thread. I hope to finish this tomorrow but I'm really running hard on a new project that I've wanted to do for a long time. I'll post some photos soon but this one will be a live real time thread, my first.

Thanks for hanging around with me! 
David


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## difalkner

Earlier I showed the video of the trunnion, where it was too tight and then after shimming I was able to get it freely moving. Here are some photos of the trunnion installed.








The worm gears are centered and backlash set as best I could so that there isn't much play when changing direction. Only the tilt gear is active in this photo but the raise/lower gear was set to the same specs when I installed it. You can also see the back Silicone caulk I used on any gaps in the cabinet seams.








Everything mounted!








Another view, tilted - 








One more - 








When I got the saw back a few years ago one of the first things I did was to take the motor down to a shop in town and let them make the necessary repairs. I understood that the motor was 'burnt up' but in fact, the windings were still good. They changed the bearings, cleaned the motor, replaced the capacitor and fan - $160.


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## BigJim

That does look good.


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## difalkner

BigJim said:


> That does look good.


Thanks, Jim!

On to the fence. It was pretty bad if you remember from the photos. Cleaned up like the rest of the saw, put on new UHMW that Adam gave me, and now it works better than I remember it ever working. Very smooth and accurate.

























Earlier I said that I would just order a new cursor but I couldn't find this particular design. I found a few that were close and many that said 'discontinued' but were very pricey. So I used some lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the cursor, after testing a hidden area to make sure that it wasn't going to eat into the plastic. Then I used some Meguiar's to polish it until it just sparkled. No need to replace it, just a little elbow grease and patience and it's about as good as new! :thumbsup:








I went back with 1/2" MDF on the fence but have yet to find the plastic laminate I want. I'm kind of holding off until I decide on what I want for my extension table and I'll use the same for the fence. So for now it'll stay as MDF. And since I'm into guitars and gearing up to build acoustics, I made a push stick out of Walnut I milled to 1/2" and then shaped like a Grand Auditorium guitar with a Florentine cutaway. It may not work any better than a simple push stick but it has to sound better! :laughing:


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## Steve Neul

Looking at the saw top, you might get a dark gray scotch brite pad and use that to apply paste wax to the top. It will eventually remove the stains and polish the top in the process.


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## difalkner

Steve Neul said:


> Looking at the saw top, you might get a dark gray scotch brite pad and use that to apply paste wax to the top. It will eventually remove the stains and polish the top in the process.


Thanks, Steve, I might give that a go. It is pretty well stained but amazingly smooth. Cosmetically it could be improved. But then, relative to where it was three years ago, it has improved tremendously!

Ok, I have been out in the shop tonight and realize I don't have everything I need to move to the next step in my current project so I'll see if I can finish this restoration thread. I really appreciate getting to share it with y'all - it's been fun for me, both in the real restoration and reliving it here.

Obviously by showing you the fence you can see the top is mounted but here's a shot of just the top and for the first time you can see the cabinet. As noted earlier I masked off all the labels that weren't removable but one PM item not salvageable was the stripe. I saved a portion of the original and gave it to a friend who owns a promotional products company and he made me a roll of the stripe. Hard to see the colors but it's a match with a little hint of metallic in the dark green center section. It's been in my desk for two years so it was fun to finally get it out and put it on. However, it took 4 attempts to get it on straight... 4 *very* time consuming attempts! I think Sandy and I together spent 2 or 3 hours just on that stripe because I had no tolerance for it being more than 1/32" off level and wanted zero wrinkles. Also, when I painted the table and extension wings on the underside and on the casting inset on the mating edges, I figured it would just easily scrape off, so I didn't mask it. I was wrong. It took only minutes to put the paint on but over an hour to get all the paint scraped off on all these edges - ugh! :thumbdown: I put it on thick enough that I didn't want it to influence the wings being mounted squarely so to me it was important to get it off.








Having some good 8/4 Purpleheart and Maple along with a well setup jointer equals a nice, hard, solid straight edge for clamping the extension wings on and helping keep them level. 








I won't bother posting the close up photos but in all my detail oriented rebuild I never noticed that the wings are not symmetrical. There are two holes in the front edge but only one hole in the back, yet they'll mount on either side of the table. No matter how much I adjusted, persuaded, shimmed, etc. I couldn't get the top like I wanted. So after hours tweaking I walked away. I came back early the next morning before work and noticed the holes, so I went back and looked at my historical reference (early photos) and noticed that the wings were swapped. So even though it made no difference for mounting the rails I swapped the extension wings back to where the two holes were in front. Lo and behold the top was now in what I would call acceptable tolerance!








Here you can see what a difference it made to paint the edge black. The wings are still not swapped in this photo, though. 








Notice the holes in the extension wings? Now they are swapped! :thumbsup: I also won't bother with photos of the brass shims for the extension wings but I went through the leveling process with the Purpleheart and Maple another 3 or 4 times until I was satisfied with the flatness of the top. I wanted to have it Blanchard ground but there isn't one in the area. I designed my own that I could build in my shop but it was a Catch 22 scenario - I needed a table saw to build it but mine was in pieces. I may one day pursue that little design but it has moved way back on the list for me. I spent several hours with a smooth file and fine wet/dry paper going over the joints after everything was mounted. The joints are smooth and the top very level relative to where it was.








Last post on this restoration coming shortly - I promise! :thumbsup:
David


----------



## difalkner

A few days ago when I started this thread I mentioned that the top was almost 0.090" out corner to corner with a dip in the middle of the top (at the blade). I know some of that was rust, but that's a long way from flat! Well, I improved it a bit. Here's the setup I used with a 48" HF level (which may be more than 0.005" out on its own).








And here's a close up of that feeler gauge (a Craftsman set I bought in 1968, matter of fact) showing 0.005". It bumped when it went under but that's not too shabby. I have a 24" Starrett straight edge that I placed perpendicular to the T-Slots and across the blade opening and got a better reading on that, albeit on a smaller sampling of the top - 0.002" bumped the straight edge and 0.0015" just touched when it went under. I'm gonna' call that close enough! :thumbsup:








So, just as a reminder on where I started this process - 








And where I am now - 








Another view - I think it's a nice looking saw and I'm pleased with the color scheme I chose. I know it shows dust but I keep it fairly clean and I'm ok with it.








If you look at the process photos you'll notice there was a large pile of 'stuff' behind the saw. I have dispensed with all of that and reclaimed it as usable space.

Thank you all for following along, for the suggestions, the compliments, the comments - I've enjoyed this!

Now it's time to build something! Oh, I did... here's another shameless plug for the jewelry cabinet I built for Sandy for Christmas - http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/build-thread-mahogany-birdseye-maple-padauk-71161/
David


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## difalkner

And here's a panorama of the shop two weeks ago. There's a router table and a miter saw set up now. It'll change again... they *all* do! :laughing:


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## epicfail48

Holy crappity crap, thats a fantastic job! You managed to go from a heap of @$#% to a usable and gorgeous saw, to the extent that my cynical jaw just hit the floor. very, very well done! You mentioned re-grinding the top, is that still the plan? Cant wait to see it after that, with the top all shiney


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## Ostie

I've enjoyed following this. Stunning restoration and great job capturing it all. Your attention to detail and your patience is something I'm envious of. Great job again.


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## BigJim

Man, what a difference from before and after, that is one beautiful saw, fantastic job, thank you for allowing us along for the ride, it was fun.


----------



## difalkner

epicfail48 said:


> Holy crappity crap, thats a fantastic job! You managed to go from a heap of @$#% to a usable and gorgeous saw, to the extent that my cynical jaw just hit the floor. very, very well done! You mentioned re-grinding the top, is that still the plan? Cant wait to see it after that, with the top all shiney


Well, Epic, my first intention for getting it Blanchard ground was to get it flat. Shiny and brand new looking would have been a bonus, but not necessary. Flat *is* necessary to do accurate work. Now that I've gotten it to 0.005" or better it doesn't seem that important. But later on down the road I may still may pursue the home built design I came up with because I think it will work just fine. If I do it'll be a project posted here. Thanks so much for following along and for the compliments!



Ostie said:


> I've enjoyed following this. Stunning restoration and great job capturing it all. Your attention to detail and your patience is something I'm envious of. Great job again.


Thanks, Ostie. It was not only fun to document but essential due to the long time period. I had to use the photos to assist in putting it back together! Yes, I am a patient man - don't know why.



BigJim said:


> Man, what a difference from before and after, that is one beautiful saw, fantastic job, thank you for allowing us along for the ride, it was fun.


Well Jim, thanks for going along for the ride. I appreciate your comments along the way and appreciate the compliments! It did go from a boat anchor to something of beauty but I couldn't let it or the situation win. :thumbsup:

David


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## Bob Vaughan

Flat tables are clearly desirable, but for accuracy in sawing wood, the straightness of the fence will be the real key.

Nice restoration. You're going to like using that saw.


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## difalkner

Bob Vaughan said:


> Flat tables are clearly desirable, but for accuracy in sawing wood, the straightness of the fence will be the real key.
> 
> Nice restoration. You're going to like using that saw.


As far as I can determine the fence is very straight. I've checked it to the T-slots and near as I can measure it's within a few thousandths when I lock it down. I've checked some cuts and they seem to be spot on. Is there a method you use to determine how straight the fence is? Maybe I can check it another way...

Thanks for the comments - I'm already loving using this saw (again)!

David


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## woodnthings

*there's straight and there's flat*

The fence needs to be both and parallel to the miter slots.
I would check the fence using an aluminum level 48" long and look for any light under the level when placed against it OR a feeler gauge. The levels are the cheapest most reliable straight edge I have found, and they don't tip over like a steel straight edge, very handy when checking jointer tables.

What ever facing material you use to apply on the fence sides is also critical. The HLP laminates used on the Biesemeyer fences would be my first choice, but you have to laminate both sides and then secure them well. I have used a white strip of HPL on my Unifence but it doesn't stick very well using double sided tape, so I check it every so often. It's a little thicker than I need, and not as flexible so a thinner piece would have less of a tendency to cup.

What ever the facing material is MDF or hardwood, I don't think matters a great deal. I really like using a long fence, 40" or so. I also use a splitter to help maintain the work against the fence, for better results AND to prevent kickbacks. :yes:


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## difalkner

I just checked with my HF 48" level and I can't see any light at all between it and the fence, so I didn't even try a feeler gauge.

So you're saying that if I use HPL then I need to laminate both sides of each MDF strip on the fence - 4 pieces total? Laminate would go against the metal fence tube, then MDF, then laminate on the outside (blade side)? How does it differ from regular old plastic laminate (Formica, Wilsonart, etc.)? 

The original splitter was taken off I think the first day the saw hit the shop back in 1990 and hasn't been seen since. I need to check into what my options are for this saw. I'd love to have a riving knife but I doubt there's a retrofit available - haven't checked.


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## BigJim

Formica and Wilsonart is HPL (high pressure laminate).


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## difalkner

BigJim said:


> Formica and Wilsonart is HPL (high pressure laminate).


LOL! Shows how much I work with that stuff! I walked into both Lowe's and HD the other day looking for 'plastic laminates' and in both stores I had to go ahead and say I needed to look at their Formica. I got the 'deer in the headlights' look when I said plastic laminates. And now I find that I had no clue... ok, I had a small clue. I think I'll go back and ask for HPL.


----------



## BigJim

difalkner said:


> LOL! Shows how much I work with that stuff! I walked into both Lowe's and HD the other day looking for 'plastic laminates' and in both stores I had to go ahead and say I needed to look at their Formica. I got the 'deer in the headlights' look when I said plastic laminates. And now I find that I had no clue... ok, I had a small clue. I think I'll go back and ask for HPL.


David, if you haven't worked with plastic laminate before, I wrote an article a while back how to apply it, hope it helps:
The surface where the hpl is to be applied should be thoroughly sanded and cleaned. Any paint or varnish should be removed before the laminated plastic is applied. Plywood and fiber board or particle board can be used as a substrate, but fiber board and particle board will swell very easy if allowed to get wet. 

Cutting Laminated Plastic

Plastic laminate material can be cut with a regular circular saw, table saw or you can use a carbon tipped scoring tool. If you use a circular saw, always cut from the back side of the laminated sheet, if using a table saw cut with the good side up. Important: Always cut the sheets of laminated plastic slightly oversize to allow for trimming, I usually allow 1/2 inch or more.

Special laminate cutting blades are available for cutting laminated plastic such as the carbon tip scoring tool. A straight edge or a steel square can be used to guide the knife for a smooth and even cut. After the sheet of laminated plastic has been scored, it can be snapped on the scored line by lifting the shorter end and applying a slight amount of pressure, be very careful, hpl usually has a razor sharp edge when broken or cut.

Seaming

If it is necessary to make a seam, a clean joint can be made by overlapping the two sheets by approximately 3/4". Cut completely through the thickness of both sheets at this point of overlap.This must be done when dry fitting the hpl before any glue is applied. Be sure to clamp the hpl so it won't move while cutting. 

Applying HPL Edging

If you wish to apply a self edge, the edging should be applied before the top hpl is applied. The top hpl should overlap the edging even if you wish to have a wooden edging. If you have a radius corner on the top you will need to heat the hpl at the point of the radius and secure it in a radius fashion and allow it to cool, once cool it should hold the radius shape. You can also sand the back of the edging at the radius, with a belt sander, to make the hpl thinner and make it easier to apply around the radius. Be careful not to sand too thin or the hpl could crack or break.

You will need to apply two or three coats of contact cement to the edge of the substrate, and the back of the hpl. (I recommend the solvent type contact glue, water base doesn't seem to work well). Let the glue dry to the touch, about 15-20 minutes, (depending on the temperature) on the substrate and the back of the hpl before applying to edge of substrate. Do not allow to let dry too long or the glue will not hold.

Be sure to have the hpl exactly where you want it, when the glued hpl touches the substrate it is there, no moving it around. Let the top edge of the hpl stick up above the top surface of the substrate by 1/8 inch or so, this is important, as you will need to sand the top edge back down flush with the top of the substrate. If you are unfamiliar with this process I recommend making pencil marks on the top of the substrate from the edging back about two or three inches all the way around where the edging is being glued. The reason for this is when sanding the edging with a belt sander it is much easier to see the pencil marks disappear when sanded enough. Once the pencil marks are sanded off, do not sand that area any more or you will not have a professional looking top.

Another tip for sanding the edging, hold the belt sander where the sander doesn't pull the edging loose, sand away from the edge with the sander pulling back onto the top, be careful not to dig in with the sander also. I use a 80 grit belt, anything finer will clog too quickly.

Applying Wooden Edging

Fasten the wood you chose to the front edge of the top, I usually use 3/4X 1 ½ inch wood edging. Install the hpl so it over laps the wood edging. When cutting the profile on the wood edging the hpl will be cut at the same time. Be sure to file or sand the edge of the hpl as it is sharp.

Applying The Top HPL

Use coarse sandpaper (80 grit) to roughen the surface to be covered. 

Brush the contact cement onto the counter surface after it is sanded. Also apply a smooth and even layer of contact cement to the back of the clean laminate sheet which is to be applied to the cemented area. Let both surfaces dry for approximately 15 -20 minutes before attempting to install the laminated sheet.

Usually one coat of cement on both the surface to be covered and the back of the laminated sheet is usually adequate for flat surface application.

A regular paint brush can normally be used for applying the contact cement to both the back of the laminated sheet and the flat surfaces. However, in some cases a hand-made paddle of wood may be more desirable for spreading the cement. If a large area is to be covered I use a solvent resistant paint roller. 

After the 15-20 minute drying period, you are ready to place the laminated sheets into position. However, you must keep the laminated sheet and the cemented substrate apart, don't let them touch until they are correctly positioned. 

Narrow strips of wood can usually be used to keep the two glued surfaces apart, Lay the strips of wood across the top, from front to back, about 15 inches or so apart leaving enough of the wooden strips hanging out the front to be able to remove them. Once the hpl is properly positioned on the sticks and with enough of the hpl overhanging all edges to allow for trimming, the sticks can be removed. Start in the middle, remove the first stick and press the hpl down onto the substrate from front to back. Continue removing the sticks one at a time and pressing the hpl from the middle toward the ends keeping all air from being trapped causing air pockets. 

Once all the sticks are removed and the hpl is pressed into place, you can use a roller made for hpl, or you can use a rolling pen, or you can use a piece of wood and mallet to make sure you have no air pockets under the hpl.

Finishing 

After the hpl is pressed in place with all the air pockets removed, the edges must be trimmed. You can use a router with a flush cutting bit with a bearing on the end of the cutter. You can use a full size router or a small trim router, either will work. If you chose to use a router bit for hpl without a bearing, you must be very careful to not allow the bit to get hot as it will damage the edging. With this type bit it is recommended to use some type of petroleum jelly applied where the bit will ride against the hpl edging, even then be very careful not to let the bit heat up.

Once again, be careful the hpl edges will be very sharp. Using a good file, (preferably an hpl file) file the edges holding the file almost straight up but back about 10 or 15°, hold at about 45° from side to side, confused. OK hold the file flat against the front of the edging so the file is standing straight up. Now lean the file to the right to about 45°, now lean the file back on toward the top about 10 or 15°. that is about the compound angle that works best for me. Be sure the File is cutting on the down stroke not upward. Keep watching the glue right at the very edge where the top hpl meets the edging. When filing and you see the glue is removed by filing at that edge, that area is done, don't file that spot any more or you will file through the finish of the hpl and it will look really bad.

Clean up

Acetone or lacquer thinner works best for me. I would suggest using gloves as this solvent will dry out your skin especially in the winter. Do not flood the hpl with solvent as it could get under the hpl to the glue and loosen the glue up.


DO NOT USE SOLVENT GLUE IN AN ENCLOSED AREA ESPECIALLY WHERE THERE IS A RECIRCULATING HEATER, IT CAN BE DEADLY.


----------



## difalkner

Jim, that's an awesome write up! And very much appreciated. :thumbsup:

I actually have used plastic laminates before but not much. I learned a lot from your write up. I'll be putting it down on the MDF fence you see in the photos of my saw. I haven't decided yet on how I'll build my extension table with router lift but I'm holding off buying any laminate until I decide how I want to proceed on the extension. Once I decide on that I'll use the same laminate for my fence. I was thinking about a light satin gray. I borrowed a router table and it has that color - I've kind of grown accustomed to it.


----------



## MSW_Shop

Absolutely incredible work! Very impressive.
I still can not fathom how you refrained from injuring the person who borrowed this saw!
That is almost more impressive than the rebuild (ok, maybe not, but still).
Thank you for sharing!


----------



## difalkner

MSW_Shop said:


> Absolutely incredible work! Very impressive.
> I still can not fathom how you refrained from injuring the person who borrowed this saw!
> That is almost more impressive than the rebuild (ok, maybe not, but still).
> Thank you for sharing!


Thanks, MSW! He's the one who has to live with what he did, I'm the one who got to restore a great saw and share that rebuild with others. :thumbsup:

I may have said it here before, not sure, but if he called and said he needed some boards cut I would tell him to bring them over. Now, for sure, ain't no way I'd loan the saw to him again, though!! :laughing:


----------



## Minnesota Marty

David, 
Thanks for posting your powermatic story. Absolutely amazing.. What a great job on the restoration. Your story has motivated me to get busy on reconditioning my stuff, thanks. 
I just got a Delta Unisaw for $300 out of a barn in actually pretty good condition. It is not going to take nearly a tenth the effort you did to get it going strong and as a daily user. 
Great job brother. 

Marty


----------



## unclefester

What a wonderful job restoring your saw. Great job and I really enjoyed following your story


----------



## difalkner

Minnesota Marty said:


> David,
> Thanks for posting your powermatic story. Absolutely amazing.. What a great job on the restoration. Your story has motivated me to get busy on reconditioning my stuff, thanks.
> I just got a Delta Unisaw for $300 out of a barn in actually pretty good condition. It is not going to take nearly a tenth the effort you did to get it going strong and as a daily user.
> Great job brother.
> 
> Marty


Thanks, Marty! Holler if I can be of assistance, always glad to help. Good luck with your rebuild. :thumbsup:



unclefester said:


> What a wonderful job restoring your saw. Great job and I really enjoyed following your story


 Thanks, Uncle Fester!!

David


----------



## CherryWoodWorker

You are right about that. It is like pulling teeth when you need help.


Steve Neul said:


> I guess it is just the changing times. I grew up and lived around folks from the WWII generation and older. I won't borrow anything from anyone regardless of how bad I might need it for fear something might happen to it while I have it. Now nobody gives a damn about anybody.


----------



## CherryWoodWorker

Man, you do awsome work. I just seen this thread and I read the whole thing. Now I will watch the video's you did. I am piecing all the tools I want and hope some day to start restoring them. I like Craftsman, so I will have alot of fun restoring them when I can.


difalkner said:


> And here's a panorama of the shop two weeks ago. There's a router table and a miter saw set up now. It'll change again... they *all* do! :laughing:
> View attachment 113505


----------



## difalkner

CherryWoodWorker said:


> Man, you do awsome work. I just seen this thread and I read the whole thing. Now I will watch the video's you did. I am piecing all the tools I want and hope some day to start restoring them. I like Craftsman, so I will have alot of fun restoring them when I can.


Thanks, CherryWW! I think my most valuable asset is paying attention to details. Sometimes my poorest asset is also paying attention to details! I get lost in them on occasion and projects stretch out too long. Oh, well, it was fun. I hope your restoration projects are a blast, too.

David


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## CherryWoodWorker

I have to get all the right tools, so I can do a restoration. So I pick up cool pieces at a time till I can afford to do one.I wish I would have started about 10 years ago, I might of had something done. Oh well, I will in the near future.


difalkner said:


> Thanks, CherryWW! I think my most valuable asset is paying attention to details. Sometimes my poorest asset is also paying attention to details! I get lost in them on occasion and projects stretch out too long. Oh, well, it was fun. I hope your restoration projects are a blast, too.
> 
> David


----------



## Bob in St. Louis

Fantastic thread. Thank you!

I spent three hours on my neighbors table saw just trying to remove a shaft out of a rusted collar. Lots of lube and a pneumatic hammer got the job done, so I respect what you've gone through.

Question for you.....Did you fill the pits in the top, and if so what did you use.
I recently got a used saw and had to remove four years of rust from the top. It's just about perfect but there's a bunch of pitting in one small area. I thought about using a grey epoxy, like JB Weld to fill the holes.


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## difalkner

Bob in St. Louis said:


> Fantastic thread. Thank you!
> 
> I spent three hours on my neighbors table saw just trying to remove a shaft out of a rusted collar. Lots of lube and a pneumatic hammer got the job done, so I respect what you've gone through.
> 
> Question for you.....Did you fill the pits in the top, and if so what did you use.
> I recently got a used saw and had to remove four years of rust from the top. It's just about perfect but there's a bunch of pitting in one small area. I thought about using a grey epoxy, like JB Weld to fill the holes.


Thanks, Bob! No sir, I did not fill them. They're not near as obvious as I thought they'd be and I have had zero issues from the surface. It is well sanded, prepped, flattened, and smoothed and wood just glides across the surface. I wanted it Blanchard Ground to get it perfect and make it 'purty' but now that I've used it for a year and a half I have to report it's just fine as is.

I have seen people use brass as a filler and I have successfully used what you mentioned. But you'll have to decide if it's needed. I guess if there's a chance a board will catch or dip as it goes across that small area on yours then you might try the epoxy.


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## Bob in St. Louis

Thank you for the reply and good information.
Is it "needed", well no...but sometimes I'm one of those guys that tends to be overly OCD about things, and pits in the TS surface happens to be one of those "things".
My (woodworker) neighbor asked if there was a cure for my disease. 

I have no doubt that one of these days I'll get fed up enough and grab the JB Weld.
Until then, I'll just have to to my best to ignore the fault. ha ha

P.S. Good to see another Baptist!


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## difalkner

Bob in St. Louis said:


> Thank you for the reply and good information.
> Is it "needed", well no...but sometimes I'm one of those guys that tends to be overly OCD about things, and pits in the TS surface happens to be one of those "things".
> My (woodworker) neighbor asked if there was a cure for my disease.
> 
> I have no doubt that one of these days I'll get fed up enough and grab the JB Weld.
> Until then, I'll just have to to my best to ignore the fault. ha ha
> 
> P.S. Good to see another Baptist!


Yes sir, So. Baptist through and through! And I'm so OCD I often refer to it as 'CDO' so the order is correct... :laughing:

I can get sooooo bogged down in the details that my projects often take way longer than they should but I just can't let it go. I've been building an acoustic guitar side bender of my own design for about 4 months now - works great. Tonight I pulled it apart to ever so slightly sand an area that has been bugging me. Wasn't necessary at all but I still did it.


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## Bob in St. Louis

Yip, we have the same illness.... haha


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## Toolman50

*Restoration*

A great job of documenting a restoration. 
Thank you for sharing. 
You should post this on Old Woodworking Machines. 
After seeing how you take care of your equipment I'm ready to buy a used car from you. 
Jim.


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## difalkner

Toolman50 said:


> A great job of documenting a restoration.
> Thank you for sharing.
> You should post this on Old Woodworking Machines.
> After seeing how you take care of your equipment I'm ready to buy a used car from you.
> Jim.


LOL! You're six weeks too late, just got rid of my MINI and bought a Tacoma.

I had not considered posting this at OWM but I cruise there from time to time, might do that one day.

Thanks!
David


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## Larry42

Time to have the top Blanchard ground. I've had that done to a 12/14 Delta saw and a 16" Crescent jointer. Wasn't all that expensive. There may be some machining needing done to the miter gage slots after grinding, any machine shop can do that easily.


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## difalkner

Larry Schweitzer said:


> Time to have the top Blanchard ground. I've had that done to a 12/14 Delta saw and a 16" Crescent jointer. Wasn't all that expensive. There may be some machining needing done to the miter gage slots after grinding, any machine shop can do that easily.


At this point, Larry, I probably won't take the top off again unless something breaks. The saw is working just great and is plenty accurate. The expense would be unreasonable for me because I have to drive 200 miles to Dallas or 250 miles to Houston to have it done. That means we have to take off work, hotel rooms, travel expenses, etc. and it's just not worth it at this point. Now if there was someone in town that did Blanchard grinding it would be different.


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