# How to cut 24" long notches (birdsmouth) into sloped ceiling panels, to accept vertical side panels (forming closets in dormer)



## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)

Hey guys - I am relatively new to woodworking and am stumped on how to cut, was essentially a 24" long birdsmouth in several wall panels used as tops to custom closets in a dormer. 
Two of the three cuts are simple 31.5 degree cuts-
1) trim (bevel?) end of board on TS at 31.5 degrees
2) measure from short end of bevel, the thickness of a similar board (which is square cut) to inset into birds mouth (when finished) and make (1st birds mouth cut), a shallow 31.5 degree cut (½ thickness of that board).
NOW THIS IS WHER I AM LOST
3 )rotate board to cut opposite angle 58.5 degrees so cut meets 1st birds mouth cut and makes a 90 degree birdsmouth (measurement for board thickness), - IF MY TS would adjust that far (max 45 degrees), I would be done BUT..... .
SO.. I have thought about-
-routing but can't find a bit or method to do that at an angle.
-Miter saw -but only 12"wide.
-dado set but again not enough angle unless i do it on 1st cut at 31.5 degrees, but that just doesn't seem right ..
Any Ideas? Am i missing something obvious or not?


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

ark99 said:


> Hey guys - I am relatively new to woodworking and am stumped on how to cut, was essentially a 24" long birdsmouth in several wall panels used as tops to custom closets in a dormer.
> Two of the three cuts are simple 31.5 degree cuts-
> 1) trim (bevel?) end of board on TS at 31.5 degrees
> 2) measure from short end of bevel, the thickness of a similar board (which is square cut) to inset into birds mouth (when finished) and make (1st birds mouth cut), a shallow 31.5 degree cut (½ thickness of that board).
> ...


Set the saw angle for 31-1/2°. Turn panel upside down and then saw. The result will be 58-1/2° when the panel is face up. 
mike


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## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)

kwoodhands said:


> Set the saw angle for 31-1/2°. Turn panel upside down and then saw. The result will be 58-1/2° when the panel is face up.
> mike


Thanks but not seeing it. this isn't a thru cut its a birdsmouth (see pics) - I get the corresponding angles, But the 1st cuts is ½ way thru at 31.5 and the second cut needs to be on same side @ 51.8 to make 90 degree birdsmouth,


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

make a rough sketch take a picture and upload it
you said birdsmouth and that's stuck in my head
i suspect you don't mean this


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## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)

_Ogre said:


> make a rough sketch take a picture and upload it
> you said birdsmouth and that's stuck in my head
> i suspect you don't mean this


YES, THIS is EXACTLY what I an trying to do! Only Difference is that it is NOT a f=rafter, but a 24" deep (wide?() ¾" thick 5' long board


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## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)




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## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)




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## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)

sample cuts by hand in short tests - Again these will be 24" wide boards.


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## sunnybob (Sep 3, 2016)

Why are you making hard work for yourself?
Cut the wall board to the roof angle, cut the same angle on the other and butt joint with glue.
If the whole thing is going to be painted no one will ever see the clever join.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Dado set at an angle in the table saw. One pass, done. Know what I'm saying?

OR two cuts, one laying the piece flat on the table with a single blade set over to your bevel angle. The next cut holding the piece vertically and sliding it along the fence at that same saw bevel setting will result in a 90 degree intersection..... unless I'm mistaken?


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## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)

sunnybob said:


> Why are you making hard work for yourself?
> Cut the wall board to the roof angle, cut the same angle on the other and butt joint with glue.
> If the whole thing is going to be painted no one will ever see the clever join.


Good question. -- mostly for literal strength as they are closets that will have hanging rods, cabinets and drawers - so I felt (possibly mistakenly), that a simple glue miter wouldn't be strong enough. (they will be freestanding into dormer space and stained.
Thanks!


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## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> Dado set at an angle in the table saw. One pass, done. Know what I'm saying?
> 
> OR two cuts, one laying the piece flat on the table with a single blade set over to your bevel angle. The next cut holding the piece vertically and sliding it along the fence at that same saw bevel setting will result in a 90 degree intersection..... unless I'm mistaken?


Well.... It is logical. I was lead to believe you shouldn't dado on a bevel angle on TS! everyone I asked said " I think it might be ok but have never done it or seen it - sounds dangerous, good luck)!
So.... as a novice I bailed on the idea. Have you done this?


woodnthings said:


> Dado set at an angle in the table saw. One pass, done. Know what I'm saying?
> 
> OR two cuts, one laying the piece flat on the table with a single blade set over to your bevel angle. The next cut holding the piece vertically and sliding it along the fence at that same saw bevel setting will result in a 90 degree intersection..... unless I'm mistaken?


A


ark99 said:


> Good question. -- mostly for literal strength as they are closets that will have hanging rods, cabinets and drawers - so I felt (possibly mistakenly), that a simple glue miter wouldn't be strong enough. (they will be freestanding into dormer space and stained.
> Thanks!





woodnthings said:


> Dado set at an angle in the table saw. One pass, done. Know what I'm saying?
> 
> OR two cuts, one laying the piece flat on the table with a single blade set over to your bevel angle. The next cut holding the piece vertically and sliding it along the fence at that same saw bevel setting will result in a 90 degree intersection..... unless I'm mistaken?


Thx -Well....Your first thought is logical. I was lead to believe you shouldn't dado on a bevel angle on TS! everyone I asked said " I think it might be ok but have never done it or seen it - (sounds dangerous, good luck)! 
So.... as a novice I bailed on the idea. Have you done this? (the video and your second idea do not work as panels are over 5" long - cant stand those on end with a jig


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

Another way to go is to rip a triangle on your TS to glue and screw both pieces of plywood to. (My first time inserting an image, seems I need practice lol)


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

OK, I missed that part!
*YES, THIS is EXACTLY what I an trying to do! Only Difference is that it is NOT a f=rafter, but a 24" deep (wide?() ¾" thick 5' long board.*

So, then it's a beveled rabbet on a 5 ft. long by 24" wide board? No, I have never done a beveled rabbet on the table saw ....... that I remember, but I may have? It's really no different than a vertical one, except that your throat plate/insert needs a wider opening to allow the dado set to clear, BUT you could start with a blank insert and just raise your dado set right up into and through it. That's SOP. It's only going to come through about 3/8" or so, no big deal. 
You Tubes on how it's done:


https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=zero+clearance+dado+insert+DIY


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

If I were doing that I would cut the back piece at an angle, and lay the top piece on top of it.

If I really felt like that needed fasteners I would connect those 2 pieces then put them in place and add the other pieces.

I recently did a closet room, the clothes hanging sections are over 4' wide, and 24" deep, far too large to make as boxes and then somehow get them into, and through the house. In the cases where a top connection was blind I screwed that side, and the top together, braced it, stood it into place and built the rest of the case with it there.


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## ark99 (Jan 27, 2021)

Thanks for ALL the assistance and ideas - solved.
I will dado on TS at 31.5 and build in closet part by part!
THX


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