# Newbie router table question



## Dead Skunk (Mar 30, 2009)

I need to replace a few trim stips on my windows. They're the little strips that hold the thermopane glass in place. The strips are about 15/16 wide and 7/16 thick. On the side that shows there is a round groove that I can duplicate with a round bit. The part that's stumping me is there is a 15* bevel on the same side and it's a touch over 7/16 wide. I can't figure out how to do the bevel. A 15* dovetail bit is close but too short and you would only have a little of the shank in the router collet. Not very safe. So how do I make a bevel like I've described? I tried a 15* jig in front of the fence but it doesn't give a clean cut because the strip wants to tip down flat on the table. I hope there's a simple way to do this and I'm just slow !!!
Thanks
Warren


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

Hi Warren,

I don't quite understand why the jig on the table tilts the material down. :huh: That would have been my first choice.
If they are small pieces you are running through, feather boards to hold the piece snug is a must.
My second thought is a plate on the router, built up to the degree you need. I'd start with wider material and rip it down to size after the bevel is cut, then your round over.
Here's a picture that's similar to the face plate idea. I might be inclined to go with something a little larger for a face plate.

Hope that helps
Rick


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## Dead Skunk (Mar 30, 2009)

*Router question*

Rick,
The jig I made is basically a fence running along an inch in front of the table fence. It's tipped away from the cutter 15* and I can't keep the 15/16 side of the workpiece on that sloped face. Every time I change hand positions the piece tips upright and the bit gouges the wood. The finger board pushes the workpiece square to the table and I lose my angle when the workpiece lifts off the angled fence I'll take a look at the router and table and see if I can do something like the add-on in your illustration. I had figured out how to cut the angle on my table saw, but the finish is poor and I'm hoping I can figure out a way to let the router bit do the finishing. If all else fails, I'll cut it on the saw and sand that particular face.
Thanks for the idea.
Warren


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## Dead Skunk (Mar 30, 2009)

*Aha Moment !!*

Rick,
Got it now. If I do exactly what's in your illustration and use a straight bit , I can get the angle I need. Start with a wide board, 6" say.Then rip the piece off on the table saw. I can keep repeating this until the board is too narrow to allow the router to make a proper pass. After that I'll have rough sections with the bevelled face finished and I can take them down to size on the router table. All the cuts I'll be making on the table will be at right angles to the workpiece so the finger board will work.
Thanks for the tip.
Warren


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

Hope it works out for you Warren!
For some easy sanding, you can use a small drum sander in your router with the router table......hopefully you won't need to!
Good luck
Rick


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

why wouldnt you use a table saw?


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## Dead Skunk (Mar 30, 2009)

*Router vs. saw*

John
I wass just trying to do it with the router because it gives a paintable surface finish without sanding. I ended up getting the pieces made by cutting a piece of finished oak flooring on a 15* slope and clamping that on the table in front of the fence. By carefully holding the workpieces against the cutter I got a pretty good result. Minimal sanding and it matched the existing trim strips pretty well.Had this not worked, I was going to cut them on my tablesaw and sand them to get a good finish.
Warren


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

with a high end blade and good technique you can use a table saw and have a paintable surface :yes:


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## Dead Skunk (Mar 30, 2009)

*Saw blade*

John,
I probably should go buy a new blade. I bought the table at a garage sale and have no idea how old the blade is. Also need to add a featherboard to the fence ,too. It's not easy to keep wood against the fence and the table surface without one and expect a good finish. What should one look for in a blade? Keep in mind that the handiest place for me to go is the local hardware store or Lowe's.
Thanks
Warren

.


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

Hi Warren,
I just replaced my freud blade with a dewalt that I got a good deal on a set of 2. I liked my freud far more than the dewalt.
Freud has a new combination blade out there that seems pretty nice.
Rick


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## Dead Skunk (Mar 30, 2009)

*Saw Blade*

Thanks Rick,
I'll go looking for one .
Warren


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

Warren,
I came across this today.
It came in handy when I was in a pinch one day to hold down some stock. I think the rollers are from a patio door track :huh: But any type of roller with some spring will work.
Rick


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

Make sure you get a thick kerf blade so it doesnt flex

I usually use a ridge carbide or forrest woodworkerII

THough amana and freud have come out with less expensive blades that are comparable to those two.


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## Dead Skunk (Mar 30, 2009)

*Saw Blade*

So, I spent some time yesterday searching this site for info on saw blades. There's a lot of great info to absorb. One thing that did become clear was that the 16 tooth blade on my table saw isn't the best choice for a smooth finish !!!! I'll see if it fits my skilsaw and use it for cutting 2x4s !!! Time to buy something with a few more teeth, me thinks. Thanks for all the info guys.
Warren


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## Foor (May 7, 2009)

*craftsmam router wont turn on nothing dead*

i have my father n laws router age? plug in and nothing no sound no nothing what could i check to see whats wrong. any help before i go out and buy a new one. Thank you Mark


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