# Picture Frame Wainscoting



## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Got a little job putting up some picture frame wainscot and chair rail. Going in the foyer area, she wants it to look more finished off. They are getting ready to have it painted so now's the time.

Here is the room.




































A few CAD drawings for layout and measurement. This is how I size my frames.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I used the new Bosch Glide saw to cut the rectangle frames. Now that it is setup it cuts perfect. The 45s must be within .05 degrees because there are no gaps in the miters and they lay out perfect. 

I use 2P-10 and TiteBond II to glue the miters, no pins. I put a good size drop in the middle of the large bead and a small drop in the small bead, then I surround it with TBII. I find the 2P-10 is a bit delicate when it comes to shock, the yellow is much stronger. The 2P-10 is the clamp so the yellow glue can setup.

I won't show you rectangles...boring.

Here is a parallelogram that goes up the stairs. These were done on the tablesaw with a sled.



























Here's the triangle for the top of the stairs









This was a 45-45 cut with the Bosch, all 90s were cut with the Bosch




























The parallelogram and the triangle were done in 1 try. I have a secret way to do them.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

When I go to the clients home I take a 6" pc of plywood about 2' long. I cut the stair stringer angle on it so the long side is plumb and the short side (angle) sits flush on the top of the stringer. That board is my template for the stair angles.

For the parallelograms are the easy ones actually, well besides the rectangles. I have a tablesaw sled that I screw two boards on that I use as fences for the angle. For the sharp acute angles I take my template and stick it in between the fences and contour the fences to the angle. I make sure they are even along the cut side so I get even angles on both pcs.

Then you just put the molding against the angled fence and push it through the blade. Usually a few times to knock off the square edge. Then you do it again on the other side. This forms the sharp angle that is exactly the same as the template.

For the wider obtuse angle you use the other angle on the template. You line the two fences up with this angle and lock the fences down (with screws). Because this angle is so wide I will take another pc of plywood and run it through and then flip it over to see if it lines up with the saw kerf, if it does you have equal angles. If it doesn't line up you need to shift both fences to correct it. In my case it I got it on the third try to get the bisect angle. I measure off the sharp point to the proper distance and then make a few cuts to sneak up on the line.

Then the rest is easy, just glue it up.

For triangles you need another angle. But that is easy to get because it needs to be the other side of the 90. So I take the template and a square and another pc of plywood and line them up on the inside of the framing square, draw a line and cut it on the miter saw. Then you check it with the square, if it's off then make the adjustment on the miter saw and try again until it is perfect.

After you get a perfect 90 with the original template and new template you can use the new template angle to set the 2 fences on the sled just like was done on the other angles.

It's nice because there are no numbers involved. It is all done with the templates and since the templates were formed from the stringer itself you have a physical reference and not a numerical reference. It is really hard to duplicate 42.2 degrees on a bunch of moldings consistently on a miter saw. And with molding lengths of 2 and 3 feet those 1/10ths of a degree add up quick.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Went to the shop today because I forgot my computer mouse, brought the camera and took some pics of the jig setup. No one asked so I assume my literary description filled your mind with pics and images just like these :w00t:

Here is the sled with the two fences, I put the reference board with the stair stringer angle in it as this was the last miter cut I used. It formed the obtuse angle on the parallelogram.










This is a pic of the two stringer angles that were there. The lower stairs were 0.1 degrees different than the upper section. So I made two references. Also shown is the other angle I created to form a 90 degree reference so I could make the triangle and the clipped areas of the squares.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Finally got back there to take some photos. Still not painted yet.


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

Leo,
nice work, consistent with all your the other pics. There are a few things which I noticed, the handrail had an up easing but the picture frame is mitered, IMO they should match. In the drawing you have a dog-leg picture frame, doesn't work for me, don't see it in the pics. also the meetings of the moldings is far too close in the finial pic, again IMO. Workmanship is flawless. Overall very nice work.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

The last pic where the moldings meet I looked at for a while. In the pic it looks like they don't line up at all but in reality the lower edge of both moldings line up, they are both 37" off the landing. The camera angle makes it look like they don't line up that way. I had a helper and we tried a few things and that is what we both agreed on that looked best in the situation

I made the dog leg frame and brought it to the house, but for whatever reason things didn't line up even though I copied the CAD drawing exactly. When I was there I took the frame and flipped it so the square corner was up and it lined up perfectly, so I just made another rectangle and that was that.

Because of the height of the upper floor I didn't have the room to have the chair rail to rise up to match the handrail.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

I approve.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Nice work, looks good. Good sled explanation.









 







.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

mics_54 said:


> I approve.


I am sooo happy :laughing:


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

That is some impressive work, IMO. I like how you work.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Wow, now that's impressive. Well the client wanted something to give the room a finished look and you accomplished that and then some. It looks absolutely beautiful. Great work, as always Leo. I love these posts of yours. I'm just never going to show my wife because I'll have a honey do list the length of my left arm. :laughing:
Great work sir.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Nice work on the quilt too.


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## GroovyMambo (Jun 10, 2012)

Leo damn you are good :thumbsup:


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## xemon2000 (Jun 6, 2012)

Brilliant. Thank you so much. I love American decor


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## Develin (Oct 1, 2012)

You must have some good vision to do that. Looks fantastic!


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## scsmith42 (Jan 24, 2011)

Leo, very nice workmanship and thank you for the tutorial!


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## dennisdev (Dec 4, 2011)

Very good. 

DJD


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## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

very well done sir. truly impressive.


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## PETERS WOOD WORKING (Nov 24, 2012)

Your house layout is so close to mine it is scary other than mine is a mirror image, better hide these pics from my wife otherwise I know what I will be making.


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

The workmanship looks very good although I think you complicated the job way to much. all your mitres can be cut on a Chop saw on the job site.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Most all the miters were cut on a chopsaw. The obtuse and acute angles were cut on the tablesaw. You just don't get the crispness of cut and beautiful match when you do the acute angles on the chopsaw.

Plus I try to do everything I can in the shop, much more efficient as long as you have good measurements.


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

You absolutely can! You just need to know how.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Well do tell pray tell. I've been at it for 20 years now and done it all sorts of ways. The cabinet saw is the best way to get a crisp clean perfect joint.


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## fixrite (Dec 1, 2010)

can't wait to hear this response. Am being a little mouse sitting in the corner listening to it all....lol:laughing:


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I know how to do it. There are 2 ways. But neither of them have the stability of the sled on a TS


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

I am not saying you are wrong but I've done the same things literally hundreds of times , I would have the whole thing done before you could make up the templates and take them home to your shop. If you can get the money then go for it anyway you want. It looks good but I doubt you could tell the difference between yours and mine.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Leo G said:


> Most all the miters were cut on a chopsaw. The obtuse and acute angles were cut on the tablesaw. You just don't get the crispness of cut and beautiful match when you do the acute angles on the chopsaw.
> 
> Plus I try to do everything I can in the shop, much more efficient as long as you have good measurements.


I do not understand. If you have the same quality blade on the table saw and the chop saw, then why would you not get the same quality?

I have cut angles on both and really do not see any difference. Now I actually have a Sliding Compound Miter Saw (SCMS) but do not see where that would be any different than a Chop Saw.

George


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I have a SCMS myself and their is no comparison in the stability between a SCMS and a sliding sled on a TS.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

imdskydiver said:


> I am not saying you are wrong but I've done the same things literally hundreds of times , I would have the whole thing done before you could make up the templates and take them home to your shop. If you can get the money then go for it anyway you want. It looks good but I doubt you could tell the difference between yours and mine.



We all have our own way imdikedriver...........

What works,or so you say, works for you.....does not work for everyone....


I use my TS as well for those type of sharp angles ,....you should try it....

Works very well.....




B,


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

Bweick7 said:


> We all have our own way imdikedriver...........
> 
> What works,or so you say, works for you.....does not work for everyone....
> 
> ...


I don't have enough free time on my hands to try such foolishness .


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

I'm so sorry to hear that........



Best of luck to you.....



B,


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

Bweick7 said:


> I'm so sorry to hear that........
> 
> Best of luck to you.....
> 
> B,


I don't need it.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Okey-dokey......



B,


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Got any pics of your work, with close ups included?


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

I just think Imadikedriver likes to chop his miters......,

It's all good.....


Seems he's a little hostile about how we should cut miters.......


Someone needs a hug..........:yes:....




B,:yes:


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I was told a rule in this place: "no pictures, it didn't happen."


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

Bweick7 said:


> I just think Imadikedriver likes to chop his miters......,
> 
> It's all good.....
> 
> ...


Cut miters anyway you want. If you want to spend twice the time doing it your way go ahead. I'll take the extra money and put it in my pocket. 
I cut a 45 degree block and put my moulding along side of it and then set my miter saw at 20* + or - which usually works for a stairway with a rise of 7 1/2 " and a run of 9".it 's quick and accurate and I don 't have to make any jigs.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Pictures.........:blink:



B,


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Just did another. Made the jig, took 2 minutes to cut the jig insert. Did the rest of my business at the house. Next day went to the shop and put the insert in the sled and screwed the fences in position (acute angle), took 2 tries to get the miters even, about 4 minutes. Then I cut my pcs, all the left sides on the moldings about 6 minutes. Reset the fences for the obtuse angle and got lucky, 1st try, 2 minutes. Then cut the other side of the molding. I was able to use the fence on the TS. Another 6 minutes. I glued them together with yellow glue and 2P-10, about 6 minutes to glue each pc up. Done. Now they get primed and then I go to the clients house and install them on the wall in about 1/2 hour. The only cutting that will occur is for the chair railing, another 1/2 hour.

And the angled pcs came out perfect the first time, no fuss no muss no guessing no worrying. And they are having me do lots more work. Because they like my methods.


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

Bweick7 said:


> Pictures.........:blink:
> 
> B,


I can't say I ever remember taking detail pictures of my miter joints. I'm not that vain I guess. My take is that this was the first time that you did wainscoting and were so proud of the job you did you posted your pictures on this form just to prove to everyone just how good you are. I think you did a good job. But a professional finish carpenter would laugh at all the trouble you went through to achieve such a basic job. Lets face it. There is only one difficult cut on your job, 
Just to prove to you how simple it is. when i go back to work after Christmas I will take pictures of a simple jig to use on your sliding miter saw .


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## DonG1947 (Nov 14, 2012)

Leo,

Very nice work. I like the proportions. Are the wall moldings built up or are the an "off the shelf" item? How wide are they? How far off the floor is the top of the rail in the foyer area?

Thanks,
Don

Moldings are something I ran in my shop on my Williams and Hussey molder. I'm sure there is something similar out there. The moldings are 1 3/4" wide. The top of the chair rail is at 36"


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I am one of the mods on the site if you didn't notice and I post a lot of my work so that others may learn. And no, this wasn't my first wainscot job. This is cheater wainscoting and truthfully it is beneath me. I would rather do a full frame and raised panel wainscot. I just found a very simple and nice way to do it that gets perfect results everytime and on top of it you get fabulous results.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

I feel so worthless after reading Imadikedrivers response,....:blink:


I'm going in the closet to hang out with my pathetic self...



Night guys...




B,


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

Leo G said:


> I am one of the mods on the site if you didn't notice and I post a lot of my work so that others may learn. And no, this wasn't my first wainscot job. This is cheater wainscoting and truthfully it is beneath me. I would rather do a full frame and raised panel wainscot. I just found a very simple and nice way to do it that gets perfect results everytime and on top of it you get fabulous results.


Yes the results are good !


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

Bweick7 said:


> I feel so worthless after reading Imadikedrivers response,....:blink:
> 
> I'm going in the closet to hang out with my pathetic self...
> 
> ...


Don't feel bad. There is a thousand ways to skin a cat.


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

Leo G said:


> I am one of the mods on the site if you didn't notice and I post a lot of my work so that others may learn. And no, this wasn't my first wainscot job. This is cheater wainscoting and truthfully it is beneath me. I would rather do a full frame and raised panel wainscot. I just found a very simple and nice way to do it that gets perfect results everytime and on top of it you get fabulous results.


Why would something be beneath you. Customers pay for what they can afford.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Because these are not the projects I strive to get. This is trim carpenter stuff.


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## imdskydiver (Apr 26, 2012)

Leo G said:


> Because these are not the projects I strive to get. This is trim carpenter stuff.




I have been a trim carpenter and stair builder for 37 years. Maybe that's why I know this stuff ! just like you probably know your shop stuff better than I do. 
For those out there that have an open mind ! 
When installing wainscoting on the side of a stairway you need to know that you are working with basic stairway math. Rise and run will also yield level and plumb angles. For a rise of 7 1/2" and run of 9" you will get a level angle of 50.19 and a plumb cut of 39.81. Now for wainscoting we know one angle is less than 90* and the other is greater than 90* and there are only 2 miter cuts on the whole job. The difficult cut is one that can't be cut on the miter saw without the use of a jig , by using a a 45* block of stock up against the miter fence we now place the molding against it and set the miter gauge to 19.995* an voila you have it. 
Plumb angle of 39.81 / 2 = 19.995 plus the 45 degree block. a level cut would be done the same. (Level angle 50.19. / 2 = 25.095 + the 45 degree block)
I have a construction calculator on my iPhone so it is always with me and only takes a few seconds to figure out the angles.


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