# What wood is safe for cutting boards?



## laf1110 (Apr 15, 2014)

Hello! New to the forum. I am a novice woodworker and would like to start making small cutting boards. I usually buy the plastic wrapped woos at Menards...is this safe for cutting boards? Does all treated wood have a greenish tint? Sorry, I said I was a novice...I don't know much :huh: I make a beeswax and Jojoba oil finish for wood toys. Would that work to finish my cutting boards with or do most people just use the cutting board oil?. I was hoping for a natural product. Thanks so much! Oh and also, I want to use Maple and Poplar. Are these good choices? Thanks!


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

Hard, dense, close grained woods are best for cutting boards. Maple is probably the most common, and is about the only thing suitable that you'll find at a big box store. Poplar is too soft, oak is open grained.

I don't know what you're referring to as green treated wood, but if you are talking about pressure treated construction lumber, that would be a BAD choice.

For finish you want an oil that is food safe and penetrates into the wood. Wax is a surface finish and would scrape off.


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## Wendel17 (Apr 20, 2009)

Maple, cherry or walnut are all good choices. I've also made a few with hickory that turned out well. As for oil, mineral oil is probably the most common.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Maple and walnut purchased at a local lumber yard (not a big box store). Much less expensive.

Smooth on one side, juice groove on the other. Hand grips routed in the ends.

Finished with mineral oil. Sold quickly to a friend that does BBQ cookoffs.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

+1 on maple, walnut, and cherry. They are all tight grained woods and look good together in any combination. I have made a number of boards and the easiest finish is plain mineral oil. You get it in the drugstore in the laxative section. Don't bother with the "cutting board" oils, they are just mineral oil with smelly oils and maybe some wax in them. I've made my own with mineral oil, beeswax, and orange oil. Easy to apply and easy to refresh a board after prolonged use. 

Simply pour the oil on, spread it around and let it soak in for a few hours. Repeat this process until the board won't take any more.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

+1 on hard dense woods like hard maple, walnut, cherry.

Note there are a number of maple species.

The best maples species for cutting boards is hard maple also called sugar maple, as in the tree from which maple syrup is tapped.

If you are at a big box store and it does not specifically state hard maple then it is one of the several species grouped as "soft maple". Some are quite soft.

This site explains the difference between hard and soft maple.

http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/differences-between-hard-maple-and-soft-maple/


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## laf1110 (Apr 15, 2014)

Thanks for all the answers! So no on the Poplar then? And the stuff from Menards (equivalent to a Lowes or Depot) would be safe to use? It's not treated like lumber. It's for woodworking...I was just wondering if this is the best place to get it or if there is somewhere better to go? We have a Carter Lumber but I don't think they have anything but Poplar. What about 88 Lumber?


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## BaldEagle2012 (Jan 25, 2012)

What kind of tools do you have? I get all my wood from a local sawyer, rough cut and I machine it. I would not use poplar for a cutting board, and recommend mineral oil as the finish. Like another poster said, spread it on all the boards surfaces and let it set, when it no longer soaks in, wipe off the excess and your good. I let mine set overnight. Cherry, hard maple and walnut is all I use for my cutting boards. When I sell one or give one away, I also include a paper with suggestions on how to care for the cutting board. I hope this helps you.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You don't want to use pressure treated wood for a cutting board. The chemicals in the wood is barely safe enough for casual contact.


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## laf1110 (Apr 15, 2014)

Well I don't use the outdoor stuff. They have a section of wood for building furniture and toys and stuff. It's plastic wrapped and U.S. sourced. They just don't have very many sizes. The stuff I get is only 8 in. wide and 3/4 in. thick and that is the biggest size. It sounds like most of you don't purchase wood from box stores? I just have a scroll saw that I work with. I make simple toys generally. So would a mill or something be my best bet? I always assumed only wood for outdoor use like fences and decks was treated. Do mills treat all of their wood with chemicals? Sorry I know I sound clueless...because I am. There doesn't seem to be much info on the net about it.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

We cautioned you about pressure treated wood as a response to your question about wood having a greenish tint. That stuff is usually green in color. Furniture wood is not treated with chemicals like that. I think though you are referring to poplar boards, which sometimes do have a greenish color. That color fades away when the wood is exposed to light for a while. And no, it's too soft for cutting boards.

Look up (Google) lumber yards in your area and find one that sells the woods mentioned - maple, cherry, walnut. Most of us don't use much wood from the big stores because selection is limited and the prices are high.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

laf1110 said:


> I make a beeswax and Jojoba oil finish for wood toys.


 Seeing as you make wooden toys , you should already know the situation regarding treated timbers. 
Cutting boards , as with all kitchen treen need to be as food safe as children's toys are .
And as far as all treated wood being green , No, not in my experience . In this country , the dye , be it green , pink , or whatever , is an indicator of the type of poison used . 
But *beware* , some timbers are treated with dye-free chemical solutions .
Smell the wood , if it bites your nose , don't buy it .
Rub the surface , if it is oily , leave it .
Turn the timber slowly in the light , if it has a powdery crystalline surface , put it down.
Ask the timber merchants , if they do not immediately give the answer , walk out .

Play it safe


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The green the treated wood has is from the alkaline copper quarternary or chromated copper arsenate, the wood preserative used to retard rot and repel insects.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Yes , we use that too , with framing timbers for construction work.

But , as I said , ( in relation to wood bought for use in the home , the workshop etc ) 
"No, not in my experience . In this country ...." (meaning NZ)



> Colour of treated timber
> 
> In addition to end branding framing timber​ for H1.2 and H3.1, a general body tint colour​ is use​ ❚ Pink – boron, H1.2.​
> ❚ Green or no added colour – propiconazole​and tebuconazole, permethrin, H3.1.
> ...


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## laf1110 (Apr 15, 2014)

Ok thanks! I appreciate the help. I will search for some mills or lumber yards that have larger pieces of untreated wood.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

laf1110 said:


> Ok thanks! I appreciate the help. I will search for some mills or lumber yards that have larger pieces of untreated wood.


Where do you live? Your profile doesn't have any info.
Usually, bigger cities have lumber yards that sell to the builders, contractors and the public also. Look around and see what you can find.

As an example, I buy from a lumber yard in Houston, which is about 18 mile drive one way for me. Since I have a small work area, I usually make more than one trip to buy stuff like plywood and rough lumber.

Good luck
Mike


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## laf1110 (Apr 15, 2014)

I live in central Ohio. I think there is a sawmill in my in-laws town so I will check with them. I just didn't know if wood that would be used for food was made by certain brands or needed to be processed differently? The brand I use for my toys is Master Craft. So the same wood is good? Thanks everyone! I am hoping to expand my knowledge and none of my friends or family are woodworkers so I am learning all on my own.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

This Mastercraft ? 
http://www.mastercrafthardwood.com/page5.html


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## Wendel17 (Apr 20, 2009)

As long as it's just regular untreated hardwood, you'll be fine. You can buy it rough, or surfaced (run through a planer).

If you're not sure, just ask when you buy it.


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## laf1110 (Apr 15, 2014)

I'm not sure if that's the company. I don't see Menard's on their list of companies they sell to. Says they sell to companies in the Reno/Tahoe area.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

laf1110 said:


> Thanks for all the answers! So no on the Poplar then? And the stuff from Menards (equivalent to a Lowes or Depot) would be safe to use? It's not treated like lumber. It's for woodworking...I was just wondering if this is the best place to get it or if there is somewhere better to go? We have a Carter Lumber but I don't think they have anything but Poplar. What about 88 Lumber?


I made an end grain cutting board out of poplar in 1975. My mother still uses it. She sent me a picture of it a few months back when a cutting board discussion came up. There is nothing wrong with using most woods for cutting boards. I feel it's best done with the end grain up because it's better on the knives. I've never finished any cutting boards and just let the use there of temper the board. 

The two boards I have in the house aren't wood. I made them from bamboo. There of good size and about 1/2" thick. Bamboo is more stable than wood because it's a grass and these have remained flat for about 7 years now. Didn't finish these either and once I sanded them a little. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Rad (Oct 8, 2012)

laf1110 said:


> I live in central Ohio. I think there is a sawmill in my in-laws town so I will check with them. I just didn't know if wood that would be used for food was made by certain brands or needed to be processed differently? The brand I use for my toys is Master Craft. So the same wood is good? Thanks everyone! I am hoping to expand my knowledge and none of my friends or family are woodworkers so I am learning all on my own.


I live near Charm Ohio in North Central Ohio, and Charm has a Amish lumberyard with an excellent selection of exotic woods! You are sure to find anything you want!

Rabologist of Milesius


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