# Glue for dense wood



## rrobor (Jul 22, 2009)

I keep trying, asking around the globe to see if anyone has a knowledge aboute a glue for dense wood. Now the wood is Australian RED BOX which is a eucalypt and its density is 1.3 Malignum Vitae (?) is 1.4 and oak is about 0.8 This stuff sinks in water. I made a table where the top planks were dowelled through and that seemed to work though the glue between the boards keeps ridging. The legs were mortice and tennon and I used yellow glue, that didnt dry. I used a 2 part and that was prone to shear, In the end I used the two part but I drilled down from the top of the leg past the tennon so that the tennon had a half moon cut in it, then I glued a locking dowel in that. Its a lovely looking wood and cheap so I would like to use it again Thanks. Rob.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Knowing nothing about the referenced wood, I am wondering if part of your problem could be that it is an oily wood? I would not think that density alone would cause problems with the two part glues.

George


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## rrobor (Jul 22, 2009)

No the wood is quite dry not oily at all. With the 2 part I experimented with 2 one inch wide peices and put a square of a 2 part glue on that, lightly clamped it and left it for 3 days. tapped it with a hammer and the joint fell apart with clean wood and the glue with a glassy surfaceon the bit that held. I think the problem is the glue can not penitrate at all. On a mortice and tennon joint with an aquadere type glue, the glue stays wet as the wood does'nt suck in moisture.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've never used that species, but I'll offer some suggestions. I've successfully used a variety of glues on some very hard woods, such as Ipe, Brazilian Cherry, and Ebony. They are likely as hard as your specie. A good two part epoxy will usually do the job. 

Of the yellow glues, TB III works well, but you may try a bit of a prep first if direct gluing didn't work. Try dampening the area to be glued with water prior to gluing. Moistened wood will open pores and will accept better penetration of the glue than dry wood. Also try gluing as soon as possible after any machining, paring, or abrading. Fresh surfaces will glue up better.

You may also try AV 201 (Bostik), or Dap Plastic Resin Glue, which are urea formaldehyde glues. Either will work very well.

Or, if your joints are well fitted, try a hot hide glue. It's been used in furniture making for hundreds of years. Here is another site for more info on hot hide glue. This may be your best choice.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Most eucalyptus species are quite oily (as George suggested) and require a bit of extra care when gluing. I haven't had much trouble with epoxies in my limited (several small pieces) experience with it. Did a hell of a number on my tools, though, talk about hard wood.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I'd suggest wiping the edges with naptha before glueing them together with epoxy. This is what I do for dense oily woods like ipe.


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## rrobor (Jul 22, 2009)

Sorry gents the wood is not oily its similar to Red Gum which is more common. That will become very rare as that needs to sit flooded at least every 12 years and its now about 18 now so the forrest is sick. So if you like exotic wood, make a piece out of red gum, its only just over 1 and glues nicely and it may be your last chance


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