# Question on loft beds



## tcfls2 (Apr 27, 2015)

I am looking into an L shaped loft bed for my sons. I found a design I like, but there are no plans for it. It seems easy enough I just had one question on joining the side rails with the corner posts. I attached a picture of the beds that I am wanting to build. The question I have is how would I join the 2x8 side rail to the 4x4 corner post. I looked at getting some joist hangers, but don't want to see metal. I also thought about using a craig jig, but I don't think that would be strong enough for years of use. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Left beds*

The beds pictured will need very good joints. Horizontal movement is exaggerated because of the length of the bed post. 
The bed must be made in such a way that you can dismantle it to move it. 
I suggest using mortise and deep tenon joints and running two dowels through the joints to secure it. The hardwood dowels can be knocked out to disassemble. 
Another way would be to pre-drill a hole slightly smaller than lag screws and secure with two screws at each joint. 
Either method will lock the joint after assembly and give a secure joint that will take a lot of punishment. 
A very good project. Good luck.


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## tcfls2 (Apr 27, 2015)

Would it be ok to cut out the full 2x8 about 3/4th of the way into the 4x4? I just don't want to go all the way through the 4x4 for staining reasons. Basically a 2x8 mortise into the 4x4. Thanks for the quick response.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

tcfls2 said:


> Would it be ok to cut out the full 2x8 about 3/4th of the way into the 4x4? I just don't want to go all the way through the 4x4 for staining reasons. Basically a 2x8 mortise into the 4x4. Thanks for the quick response.


Good joints need square shoulders so the mortise and tenon joints fit well forming a good solid joint. The 2x8 should have the rounded edges ripped off and mortises cut accordingly.

At least that is the way I see it.

Hope this helps.


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## tcfls2 (Apr 27, 2015)

That helps out a lot. Would it be ok if I didn't go all the way through the 4x4 with the mortise? Thanks for all the help.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

In 93 I based the bunk beds I made for my daughters on a "This End Up" model. I direct lagged using 7"X3/8"lags from the back board and head board to the rail.


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## tcfls2 (Apr 27, 2015)

So you would just run a lag screw through the 4x4 into the 2x8? Did it hold up well?


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

TC
Yes, you can be confident and cut 1 1/2" deep mortise in the 4 x 4 post without a problem. Then 1 1/2" tenon should be 1" wide min. For strength. Then I recommend you lock the joint using either a 3/16" dowel or a screw that goes through both. The dowel would have the hole drilled completely through the 4 X 4 and you would see the small end of the dowel. If you don't want to see this, drill two small holes almost through the post from the back side and lock with two heavy screws. 
I think you will be fine to substitute 2 X 6 instead of the 2 x 8 boards. 
The mattress will stand up above the side rail and will be easier to make the beds.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

tcfls2,
Yes sir I would and did. Be aware wifey and I went to the TEU store that was in the Hyannis mall with a tape measure, my weensy Olympus voice activated recorder and her weensy camera. We took pics and meas for the major components, (LXWXH) and thickness of the crate style panels to ensure the mattresses and box spring things would fit. 

In gen, everything is pretty close to the model, I shoulda done the brain work 6 months sooner to allow proper mat acclimation, the single water bed frame both littles shared for a couple months was crowed no matter how you folded them into it. Some of the panel boards have checking, likely due to fixed ends and shrinkage, in retrospect maybe I should've used carriage bolts instead of glue to secure the end frames to panel boards, I don't know.
But all the lagged joints are still tight.


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## tcfls2 (Apr 27, 2015)

Would wood from Lowe's be ok to use? i will be painting it, so grain won't matter. I know a harder wood is better, but we don't have anywhere around us that has hard wood available. They either don't have it or it is special order.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Bunk beds*



tcfls2 said:


> Would wood from Lowe's be ok to use? i will be painting it, so grain won't matter. I know a harder wood is better, but we don't have anywhere around us that has hard wood available. They either don't have it or it is special order.


sounds like you're changing your original plans. 
If you want clear wood over the knotty look, Fir would be preferred over Pine


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

tcfls2,
I don't know, I never bought construction or finish materials from BB stores, Lumb Yds only. No disrespect, but the thought makes the fur stand up all over my body.

Pay attention to the height of the bed and how long they'll be used, kids get bigger, I should have lowered the top bunk 6", when the oldest got too big/tall to be up there the youngest one didn't want to switch.


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## tcfls2 (Apr 27, 2015)

I won't be changing the plans I just was going to buy the lumber from Lowe's and they don't have any hardwood in the sizes needed. I will be doing mortise and tenon for the joints with the small dowel going through it. I just wanted to make sure the lumber wasn't too soft and it just start falling apart after a year or so.


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## tcfls2 (Apr 27, 2015)

I am leaving right at about 30" from the top of the mattress to the ceiling. Do you think that would be enough for a teenager? I raised them enough to be able to put a desk underneath and not bang your head on the bed when you are sitting.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

tcfls2 said:


> I won't be changing the plans I just was going to buy the lumber from Lowe's and they don't have any hardwood in the sizes needed. I will be doing mortise and tenon for the joints with the small dowel going through it. I just wanted to make sure the lumber wasn't too soft and it just start falling apart after a year or so.


You will be okay with the soft wood because it's large dimension lumber and your joints will be big.
Draw everything out first on each upright bedpost. Cut your mortises first and cut the tenons to fit. Take your time with the heavy 2 X joints because these are most critical. The lighter joints of the ladder frame (headboard) on the bed frame are not as critical. 
Depending on your level of experience, this is a big project. I assemble something this large, flat on the floor, in several sections. 
Keep us posted on your progress.


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## tcfls2 (Apr 27, 2015)

I will definitely keep everyone updated. I have it all drawn out and will be starting in about 2 months due to some vacation time. Thank you all for the help. It is greatly appreciated.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

To be clear, I made no mortise or tenon for any of the lagged joints. I used SYP for the material, if I had money I probably would have bought the BB. In retrospect, regarding the construction of the BB, if I had the money I would have used oak or maple, just because I like the wood. 

I've built 6 bed frames over 35 yrs, framing spruce, (looked better than it sounds) fir, SYP and oak. The spruce is the lightest, but all are heavy woods, so consider that in your calcs regarding design and footprint


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