# table saw arbor bearings



## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

I put the new bearings in and used the Loctite bearing retainer. I am noticing though there is a very tiny amount of slop in the bearings when you pull the shaft to the sides...I am thinking maybe :001 to .002. These are Timken Federal Mogul bearings and cost about $20 each so they are not the cheap imports. Is it normal for new bearings to have a tiny amount of play like this? Also do the bearings make any sounds when you spin them even though there brand new? I am noticing a really low pitched sound inside one of the bearings when you spin it. No major squeal or chirp or anything like that though. Any input and comments would be greatly appreciated.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

There should be no play or noise coming from new bearings. Something is wrong. I'm looking at the center picture with the discoloration on the shaft next to the bearing and wondering if the old bearing went completely out and damaged the shaft. This might account for the noise and play. If its just color it sounds like one or both of the bearings is defective. If you still had it on the saw to where it could be run, you might put a mechanics stethoscope on it to listen to it better.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> There should be no play or noise coming from new bearings. Something is wrong. I'm looking at the center picture with the discoloration on the shaft next to the bearing and wondering if the old bearing went completely out and damaged the shaft. This might account for the noise and play. If its just color it sounds like one or both of the bearings is defective. If you still had it on the saw to where it could be run, you might put a mechanics stethoscope on it to listen to it better.



The old bearings that were on there did not go out or burned out on the arbor...they did have a a little squeak coming from them though and a tiny amount of play..it is why I bought new bearings. I noticed when I put the new bearings on they did not have to be pressed in the arbor housing with a hydraulic press or anything..they slid right in and they were loose fitting...maybe .002...the outer diameter of the bearings . As for the ID of the bearing it slipped on the arbor shaft easy ....maybe too easy..it is why I used some of the Loctite bearing reatainer. I hate to put all this back together on the saw and not having it work like it suppose to. Did these saws ever maybe have defects in which the arbor shafts and arbor housings were not machined correctly to close tolerances?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*honestly*

take the assembly to a bearing supply house, where you got the FM bearings maybe, or a machine shop. This doesn't seem right. They can spin the arbor with a lathe and listen to any noises as well as determine any play. I replaced the bearings on my old Craftsman saw 2 X in 50 some years, and they were "tight" if I recall. I don't think they "slid" into the casting, but had to be assisted in some mannner...pushed, pressed, or knocked in with a block or large socket... can't remember. :blink: 6202 is a number that comes to mind? See this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-RIDGID-10-TABLE-SAW-ARBOR-BEARINGS-/310313026062

Also a search came up with this: http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=A0oG7mx0EeRQEzIAthZXNyoA?p=bearing%20for%20craftsman%20table%20saw&fr2=sb-top&fr=ytff1-tyc7


In one of the links above:







* Table saw bearings* 
Hoover is now NSK. The 202 is the current standard 6202 bearing (metric OD 
and metric width), however the number -10 following the bearing number 
indicate the ID in sixteenths of an inch, which would translate to 5/8 inch 
bore, which is a typical size for Craftsman equipment. They typically used 
metal shields on their bearings for grease retention. I would advise getting 
the new ones with the rubber seals (usually designated with a 2RS or an LL 
after the bearing number), so what you would want to get is a set of 6202-10 
LL, or 6202-10 2RS bearings. The difference in price between shielded and 
sealed bearings is miniscule for small bearings like this. They do a much 
better job of keeping sawdust out of the bearings.

When you install them, make sure you are pressing them on properly. To press 
them onto a shaft, press ONLY on the inside race. If installing them into a 
housing, press ONLY on the outside race. If you press on the wrong race, you 
will damage the bearing and will have to replace it again soon.

If you have to drift the bearing onto the shaft or into the housing, use a 
tube of some type that fits closely to the size of the race that you are 
drifting. If you use a metal tube, such as a piece of pipe, DO NOT USE A 
METAL HAMMER. The bearing races are hardened steel, and you can fracture the 
metal. Use a dead blow hammer or piece of wood to drift them on.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> take the assembly to a bearing supply house, where you got the FM bearings maybe, or a machine shop. This doesn't seem right. They can spin the arbor with a lathe and listen to any noises as well as determine any play. I replaced the bearings on my old Craftsman saw 2 X in 50 some years, and they were "tight" if I recall. I don't think they "slid" into the casting, but had to be assisted in some mannner...pushed, pressed, or knocked in with a block or large socket... can't remember. :blink: 6202 is a number that comes to mind? See this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-RIDGID-10-TABLE-SAW-ARBOR-BEARINGS-/310313026062
> 
> Also a search came up with this: http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt... craftsman table saw&fr2=sb-top&fr=ytff1-tyc7



I used a 202FFB Timken bearing which is same as 6202RS. There are some cheap import bearings from ebay which I first had and they sounded like gravel inside when you spinned them. Are the bearings suppose to be pressed on with a lot of force so something expands and makes things a little tighter? Maybe this is why the bearing and the balls inside are having that tiny amount of play.....it cant be much..you have to push hard to get maybe .002 at the most.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*this is why I suggested a machine shop*

Unless you have machining or tool making skills possibly? 
Obviously there may be play in the bearing itself, unlikely since you got the good ones, but still possible. You mentioned that one has a growl or other sound...that's doesn't sound right.
Possibly the bearing to housing fit is out of whack and it's loose. Where did you put the "bearing retainer" product, in the housing? Can you run the shaft at speed by attaching it to the end of your motor? Make a sleeve of rubber hose to fit on the shaft and the arbor. Hang on a have someone else turn it on.  Can you add a shim to reduce the end play? Lot's of variables here and questions....


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Unless you have machining or tool making skills possibly?
> Obviously there may be play in the bearing itself, unlikely since you got the good ones, but still possible. You mentioned that one has a growl or other sound...that's doesn't sound right.
> Possibly the bearing to housing fit is out of whack and it's loose. Where did you put the "bearing retainer" product, in the housing? Can you run the shaft at speed by attaching it to the end of your motor? Make a sleeve of rubber hose to fit on the shaft and the arbor. Hang on a have someone else turn it on.  Can you add a shim to reduce the end play? Lot's of variables here and questions....



I put the Loctite on inner housing and outer part of bearings. As for noise....it not a growl...its a very faint little thump...I can kinda feel it if I spin it kinda fast by hand. What do you mean by end play? Is that pushing the arbor in and pulling out.....or up and down movement by pulling the arbor up and pushing it down by hand? I want to take thearbor, belt and hook it back up to the motor of the saw which I have off and try to spin it.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*end play*

There "could be" some end play in your assembly, in and out, but there should be NO up and down play. There should be NO thumping or clunking sounds coming from a new bearing itself. The shaft may have some play or be out of tolerance for the bearings you have. See if the old bearing slides on easily or has to be assisted. Can you measure the inside diameters of both the old and new bearings and the shaft? Machine shop tools needed here.....vernier calipers and micrometers. It's possible a spring washer can take up some end play, but I donno? See the Images in the search I did to see what parts other arbors have.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> There "could be" some end play in your assembly, in and out, but there should be NO up and down play. There should be NO thumping or clunking sounds coming from a new bearing itself. The shaft may have some play or be out of tolerance for the bearings you have. See if the old bearing slides on easily or has to be assisted. Can you measure the inside diameters of both the old and new bearings and the shaft? Machine shop tools needed here.....vernier calipers and micrometers. It's possible a spring washer can take up some end play, but I donno? See the Images in the search I did to see what parts other arbors have.


I want to do a measurement on all this but I do not have a good caliper or micrometer. And where I live there is no machine shops.Closest one maybe 40 miles and they charge like $60 an hour just to look at something....with that I could buy a new arbor and housing on ebay. Maybe I try make a video of it and the noise it makes...if it can be recorded since it so minute of a sound. thanks for all your help so far.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you think the entire bearing is loose in the housing you could purchase a cheap set of fealer gauges like you would use to set breaker points on a car and cut an approiate thickness one for shem stock and stuff it in the housing with the bearing. It is appearant from the pictures that the bearing was never intended to be pressed in. It has a retaining plate on it so an individual with minimal tools can replace the bearings but they still should have been hard to get out. It is also possible that the shaft right where it goes on the bearing is smaller in diameter than the rest of it. I had a saw one time the bearing got old and didn't turn as freely as it should and the shaft turned in the bearing enough to create enough wear I ended up having to replace the shaft. The ID of the bearing should also fit pretty snug with the shaft.


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

To check for end play a feeler gauge can be used if a dial indicator isn't available. A bearing without any clearance at all will run hot and eventually tighten but you won't like the sound of it.

To check for a rough bearing hold the inner race between your thumb and pointer finger and rotate the outer race. With the fingers being sensitive you'll feel any glitch much better than when mounted to the saw.

Why you glued the bearings into the housing I really don't know.


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## Stevedore (Dec 28, 2011)

Having just replaced the bearings in my Delta CS arbor, I'm guessing that you may have the wrong bearings. There shouldn't be any looseness in the assembly anywhere.

In my case, the bearings were a tight press fit on the arbor, and a less-tight fit in the bearing housing (or whatever that part is called). I used a collection of tube pieces, sockets, heavy washers, and a vise to get mine back together without any hammering or tapping. The bearings went into the housing with easy pressing, but I could not have put them in by hand.

Regarding the noise you're hearing, I can only comment that mine are dead quiet & smooth compared to the old ones I replaced.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

SandburRanch said:


> To check for end play a feeler gauge can be used if a dial indicator isn't available. A bearing without any clearance at all will run hot and eventually tighten but you won't like the sound of it.
> 
> To check for a rough bearing hold the inner race between your thumb and pointer finger and rotate the outer race. With the fingers being sensitive you'll feel any glitch much better than when mounted to the saw.
> 
> Why you glued the bearings into the housing I really don't know.



The reason I used the loctite retaing compound is the bearings were so loose in the arbor housing..when you spinned the shaft...the entire bearing was spinning around the housing. I am not sure now maybe if the arbor housing is defective or if the bearings are wrong. But I tried 2 sets of bearings and they both were fitting too loose. I tried a 6202 RS and a 202FFB. These were suppose to be the correct size for the arbor and housing I was told?


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

I am noticing some bearings have a tiny bit of variation in the size they state on there specs. I thought all bearings were suppose to made to exact sizes when you cross referenced to different brands. I do not know if they measured this right when they added this to there descriptions or what..but look for example of these two brands of supposedly the same size of 5/8" 6202 bearings. Look at the ID part 

Is it strange its a .003 difference or normal?


http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/auto-parts.asp?prod=BCA-202FFB


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-6202-5-8-...197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7580f7cd


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

yellowcat said:


> I am noticing some bearings have a tiny bit of variation in the size they state on there specs. I thought all bearings were suppose to made to exact sizes when you cross referenced to different brands. I do not know if they measured this right when they added this to there descriptions or what..but look for example of these two brands of supposedly the same size of 5/8" 6202 bearings. Look at the ID part
> 
> Is it strange its a .003 difference or normal?
> 
> ...


You will need the metric bearings. 35 mm(1.3780 inch)

Sometimes I swear the screwed up plumbing industry has taken over all manufacturing.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*were the original bearings bad?*

Were they seized and then spun in the housings which would account for the loose fit? Seems like you've gone to a whole lot of trouble over this unfortunately. :thumbdown: Shoulda been a lot easier.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

SandburRanch said:


> You will need the metric bearings. 35 mm(1.3780 inch)
> 
> Sometimes I swear the screwed up plumbing industry has taken over all manufacturing.



You can not use an all metric size bearing because the shaft is 5/8". A 6202 bearing in a metric has a 15mm ID..which is .590 and way too loose on the shaft. People are selling many bearings which claim to fit a Craftsman and all have different OD mostly.... check one other on link below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310313026062?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Were they seized and then spun in the housings which would account for the loose fit? Seems like you've gone to a whole lot of trouble over this unfortunately. :thumbdown: Shoulda been a lot easier.


I agree with you friend..it should have been an easy job to just swap out bearings. But when you get something used and free..you never know what the saw went through in its lifetime. When i got it though the blades spun easy and bearings was not froze up. But who knows for sure....the bearings could have been spinning around in the housing a little....but I did not see any shiny inside surface of the arbor bearing surface so I do not think it was?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

yellowcat said:


> I agree with you friend..it should have been an easy job to just swap out bearings. But when you get something used and free..you never know what the saw went through in its lifetime. When i got it though the blades spun easy and bearings was not froze up. But who knows for sure....the bearings could have been spinning around in the housing a little....but I did not see any shiny inside surface of the arbor bearing surface so I do not think it was?


For what you're going through, for whatever the cost, if it were me, I would just order a replacement housing/bearing set up. Sometimes it's just luck with non OEM.









 







.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> For what you're going through, for whatever the cost, if it were me, I would just order a replacement housing/bearing set up. Sometimes it's just luck with non OEM.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I would but the arbor alone new cost nearly $80..and the arbor housing is not sold new anymore from sears...all obsolete.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Check these out*

You can get the whole assembly for about $55.00 and less for separate parts: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...3&_nkw=craftsman+saw+arbor&_sacat=0&_from=R40

I would like to see your existing parts laid out or slipped on a 5/8" shaft to see what the outside dimensions are compared to one another. A digital micrometer from Harbor Freight is about $20.00 and will serve more than one purpose: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-digital-caliper-47256.html

Apparently the original bearings were snug in the arbor and the replacements too loose?
Do the dimensions on the new bearings description match the original? Also were you able to do a live test of the assembly after you used the bearing retaining goop to see if it all works OK without any strange noises. Who knows, it may be fine as you have it and all this angst is for naught...


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

yellowcat said:


> I am noticing some bearings have a tiny bit of variation in the size they state on there specs. I thought all bearings were suppose to made to exact sizes when you cross referenced to different brands. I do not know if they measured this right when they added this to there descriptions or what..but look for example of these two brands of supposedly the same size of 5/8" 6202 bearings. Look at the ID part
> 
> Is it strange its a .003 difference or normal?
> 
> ...


-----------------------------------------------------------
Is there a reason the bearings in the second attachment you listed won't work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-6202-5-8-...H_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7580f7cd&afsrc=1

In my opinion this whole mess should be a good lesson for the future to take the old bearings to a local bearing supply and have them size them for correct replacements.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> You can get the whole assembly for about $55.00 and less for separate parts: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...3&_nkw=craftsman+saw+arbor&_sacat=0&_from=R40
> 
> I would like to see your existing parts laid out or slipped on a 5/8" shaft to see what the outside dimensions are compared to one another. A digital micrometer from Harbor Freight is about $20.00 and will serve more than one purpose: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-digital-caliper-47256.html
> 
> ...



I finally got in my shop today to test the arbor housing assembly. I slipped on the pulley..put a belt around it a motor sitting on the workbench. I ran it holding the arbor housing by hand no doubt (hoping the belt would not fly off and wrap around my head  ) twice...once about 3 minutes nonstop.....then again about 10 minutes nonstop. The first time it ran good with no noticeable loud noises coming from the bearing....only when I turned it off and checked it out, the flange was very warm....I am guessing about 140 degrees. So I decided then to run it longer. That is when I turned the motor back on and let it run about 10 minutes nonstop. The flange this time was a lot hotter..so hot you grabbed it by the palm and after about 5 seconds you wanted to let go. Not sizzling to fry you hand like that...but I figure the temperature of the flange had to be about 180-200F. The pulley side was not so hot..pulley was not but just warm maybe...the arbor shaft itself was not that hot..it was just warm on both side...not hot like the flange part was. Would this be normal to heat up like this? Since I let it run so long nonstop? 


As when you asked if the old bearings were fitting loose in the arbor housing ..they were not loose..but they were not tight also. When I tapped out the arbor from the housing..one bearing stayed on the arbor...so no real way to tell if that one was a really tight press fit. But the other side which the bearing remained on the pulley end with the bearing cover..I pushed that one out by just pushing it out with my thumb. These new Federal Mogul bearings I put in (202FFB) was loose in the arbor housing..I am guessing about .002. If anyone has a craftsman saw like this can you reply if you replaced the bearings and give the brand of bearings you used? thanks


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

yellowcat said:


> I finally got in my shop today to test the arbor housing assembly. I slipped on the pulley..put a belt around it a motor sitting on the workbench. I ran it holding the arbor housing by hand no doubt (hoping the belt would not fly off and wrap around my head  ) twice...once about 3 minutes nonstop.....then again about 10 minutes nonstop. The first time it ran good with no noticeable loud noises coming from the bearing....only when I turned it off and checked it out, the flange was very warm....I am guessing about 140 degrees. So I decided then to run it longer. That is when I turned the motor back on and let it run about 10 minutes nonstop. The flange this time was a lot hotter..so hot you grabbed it by the palm and after about 5 seconds you wanted to let go. Not sizzling to fry you hand like that...but I figure the temperature of the flange had to be about 180-200F. The pulley side was not so hot..pulley was not but just warm maybe...the arbor shaft itself was not that hot..it was just warm on both side...not hot like the flange part was. Would this be normal to heat up like this? Since I let it run so long nonstop?
> 
> 
> As when you asked if the old bearings were fitting loose in the arbor housing ..they were not loose..but they were not tight also. When I tapped out the arbor from the housing..one bearing stayed on the arbor...so no real way to tell if that one was a really tight press fit. But the other side which the bearing remained on the pulley end with the bearing cover..I pushed that one out by just pushing it out with my thumb. These new Federal Mogul bearings I put in (202FFB) was loose in the arbor housing..I am guessing about .002. If anyone has a craftsman saw like this can you reply if you replaced the bearings and give the brand of bearings you used? thanks



I added a photo with the part which was getting very warm and arrow pointing to it.


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## chnsws (Jan 6, 2013)

*no heat*

i think, no matter what, you need to take this apart, clean out the locktite, (without scoring the the metal with your scraper), and start over. your arbor shaft may get warm from a lot of use, but it should NEVER get hot enough to burn you.
use you $20 harbor freight calipers to measure the opening. do this 5 or 6 times around the hole. hopefully it will be same measurement all around. then compare your numbers with what the size should be. as everybody has been saying, this bearing should slide in with enough resistance that hand pressure wont be enough.
if the hole is to big, it's wore out. repairing it would be more than replacing it.
Ed


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

chnsws said:


> i think, no matter what, you need to take this apart, clean out the locktite, (without scoring the the metal with your scraper), and start over. your arbor shaft may get warm from a lot of use, but it should NEVER get hot enough to burn you.
> use you $20 harbor freight calipers to measure the opening. do this 5 or 6 times around the hole. hopefully it will be same measurement all around. then compare your numbers with what the size should be. as everybody has been saying, this bearing should slide in with enough resistance that hand pressure wont be enough.
> if the hole is to big, it's wore out. repairing it would be more than replacing it.
> Ed



ok..lets say the bearings inner ring has a diameter of .625". What should the diameter of the shaft be? Should it be exact same size or few thousandths smaller? Or should the shaft diameter be exactly .625" and the inner bearing ring be a few thousandths smaller? As the hole being wore out..I am not sure which hole you are referring to and I can not see how it got wore out...its made of cast iron.


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

yellowcat said:


> ok..lets say the bearings inner ring has a diameter of .625". What should the diameter of the shaft be? Should it be exact same size or few thousandths smaller? Or should the shaft diameter be exactly .625" and the inner bearing ring be a few thousandths smaller? As the hole being wore out..I am not sure which hole you are referring to and I can not see how it got wore out...its made of cast iron.


If a person googles bearing fit, interference fit or anything along those lines he will have in front of him more information than the average person ever wanted to know about classification of bearing to shaft fits. Also keep in mind they refer to size difference in tens of thousandths and fractions of microns with a micron being one one thousandth of a mm.

To make a long story short, in this application, we are looking for a light interference fit. In some circles that would be called a "push fit" ie you can push the bearing in or out with your fingers just as you did originally while another may fall off if all it's ducks get aligned just right in a straight row.

So to answer your question, the shaft should be approximately the same diameter as the diameter of the inner bearing race (ring) + or - 0.00001" . The outer race (ring) outside diameters should be approximately the same diameter as the bore they insert into + or - 0.0001. This would be perfect for a push fit when the two are equal temperatures. The difference in the numbers of zeros has to do with difference in diameters.

Keep in mind that a interference fit is referred to a press fit and commonly has 0.0015" - 0.002" / inch of diameter on the tight side and assembled with hydraulic press or other shade tree methods of assembly. :thumbsup: If we had that on our saws dis assembly for repairs would be very difficult.

So a person may wonder why these bearing races (rings) don't spin and ruin everything. Well they can and if the bearings get bad enough where the balls try to mount each other they sometimes do but also realize we have belt tension that is a factor in this equation.

Axial run out - yes with this price of equipment possibly just a little. On space equipment maybe not. :laughing:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I found this*

Maybe it would be better at this point to start over with this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cra...979?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257949be7b


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Maybe it would be better at this point to start over with this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cra...979?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257949be7b



I would buy it if it had new bearings in it and the shaft had no run-out...but you know when you buy these used junkers on ebay they are out of worn out saws that need everything nearly replaced just like what I am working on my own. I think what my problem was I picked up a pear of old bearing which was sitting on the shelf for years and plus they was the wrong size of the OD. 

Today I popped out the arbor to start over and man oh man does that Loctite 680 work. That stuff locked in the bearings so tight they both stayed in after the arbor was punched out...breaking and bending the external snap ring for the bottom bearing and also the center E-clip. I sure wish I had some spares..I not have any and no stores around here sell any. :icon_cry:


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

I got some of those bearings they sell over on eb**..the cheap ones made in China...they claimed to fit craftsman table saws like mine. Just wanted to try them for the heck of it.Wouldn't you know they were loose in the housing just like the others....even though they claimed to be 6202ZZ bearings this time. I am guessing they are about .002" undersized. Be careful when buying China crap.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*TSC near by?*



yellowcat said:


> I would buy it if it had new bearings in it and the shaft had no run-out...but you know when you buy these used junkers on ebay they are out of worn out saws that need everything nearly replaced just like what I am working on my own. I think what my problem was I picked up a pear of old bearing which was sitting on the shelf for years and plus they was the wrong size of the OD. . I sure wish I had some spares..I not have any and no stores around here sell any. :icon_cry:


I found some 5/8" bore bearings for my jointer, (same as the table saw) on the rack near the hydraulic stuff. They fit perfectly. If they don't you can bring them back OR take your arbor and housing along and try them.... usually nice folks there. :yes: http://www.tractorsupply.com/bearing-6-roller-ace-5-8-in--1196105
Tractor Supply Corporation, TSC

These are ISO made bearings, http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-6202-5-8-...197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7580f7cd

and these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-2-6202-...372?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae7bf9254

From what I'm seeing the OD is now in metric, 35mm. I wonder if that's the problem with them being loose in the housing. I remember my old bearings were 1 5/8" OD... could be wrong?


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> I found some 5/8" bore bearings for my jointer, (same as the table saw) on the rack near the hydraulic stuff. They fit perfectly. If they don't you can bring them back OR take your arbor and housing along and try them.... usually nice folks there. :yes: http://www.tractorsupply.com/bearing-6-roller-ace-5-8-in--1196105
> Tractor Supply Corporation, TSC
> 
> These are ISO made bearings, http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-6202-5-8-...197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7580f7cd
> ...



I see in the link you added the sizes of these bearings. They have an outer diameter of 1.375" just like the Federal Mogul bearings that were fitting loose for me. Today I got a pair of NTN bearings for $30...on the box claimed to be 1.378". I slipped then them in the arbor housing and they are a hair tighter than the other ones but they push in and push back out with hardly no resistance. I also ordered me a Harbor Freight $29 digital Caliper for half price but it not arrived yet. I wanted to measure up all this stuff I have and post it.Hopefully it arrives tomorrow. :blink:


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

*sound of the bearing arbor*

I added a new set of NTN bearings to this arbor housing today after I thought I give this thing one more chance. After putting the bearings on the shaft and putting everything back together the darn arbor was able to move in and out of the shaft maybe .010" and thought to myself what the heck is causing this? I just put in brand new NTN bearings at $15 a pop. I noticed one of the snap rings around the arbor on the pulley side was not real tight against the bearing inner race. I thought everything was suppose to line up by itself once everything was pressed on. Thinking maybe I needed a very thin washer shim of maybe .010" which I did not have to make that snap ring really tight against that inner bearing race...I took my rubber hammer and gave the arbor on the pulley side a good whack and figure this might do something.

Well it did I think. There is no in and out play at all now and the snap ring is tight against the bearing's inner race. What does anyone think on what was going on inside this housing to make all this happen?

I wanted to test it and see if any noise when it was put to a good spin so I rigged up a temporary spin on my lathe I had out in my small storage building. I really do not know how much noise these bearings and housing assembly are suppose to make without a blade so I appreciate viewers to take a look at the video I made showing it spinning. I hear some noise but do not really know if this is normal noise. :thumbsup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAaPG1VP17A&feature=youtu.be


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