# Best method of making 1/8 inch dividers?



## dub warrior2 (Feb 25, 2010)

My daughter and I have a rapidly expanding Hot Wheels collection and the time has come for me to build a display case.
I have done some research of the various styles and I really like this one - 

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...q=hot+wheels+case&hl=en&sa=G&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1

That 100 car case is beautiful. I live in the UK so cant really afford to have one shipped over and I love woodworking so am going to make one myself.

I have the materials for the frame (Beech) and am able to machine this myself.
What is the best method of making those 1/8 inch dividers?
Over here we use metric a lot so I need to find a way of cutting all of the 1/8 inch (3mm) slots in the dividers. Should I clamp all of the horizontal and vertical dividers together and cut the slots together?
What should I use to cut that has a 3mm wide blade?

Any advice appreciated.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Over here in the US the common saw blade has a 1/8th inch kerf, no reason to think your blades are any different. Clamping the dividers together is a good idea and it would probably help to put thicker sacrificial pieces on the outsides of the stack to prevent anything tearing out as you cut. If the cut is still too thin you can run it by again with a sheet of card stock against the guide to move it over a bit.


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## dub warrior2 (Feb 25, 2010)

Thank you for the reply. It makes a lot of sense.
I think to save a lot of routing of the outer frame for the dividers, I will add a top, bottom and two sides to the dividers and make it as a seperate, removeable (or fixed) frame within the outer frame.

Gonna be a bit tricky to make with just a handheld router, rather than a bench mounted router.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

dub warrior2 said:


> Thank you for the reply. It makes a lot of sense.
> I think to save a lot of routing of the outer frame for the dividers, I will add a top, bottom and two sides to the dividers and make it as a seperate, removeable (or fixed) frame within the outer frame.
> 
> Gonna be a bit tricky to make with just a handheld router, rather than a bench mounted router.


clamp a long piece of wood on your piece and use like a fence That will steady the router Just make sure and run router the right way


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I'd cut those on a table saw if it were me.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I like gary's suggestion. Do them all at once with a thick sacrificial piece in both sides.


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## dub warrior2 (Feb 25, 2010)

Thanks guys.
Bought most of my materials this week and am ready to have a go.
I am competent at most woodwork but the dimensions involved in some of these pieces are freaking me out a bit. Never really worked to 1/8 inch.

Anyway my plan is as follows-

1) Machine rebate into length of oak using 4mm bit in router(to allow perspex to slide in and out) I'm gonna alter the design slightly by having the perspex slide to the left.
In order to put the above rebate in the 3/4 oak, I'm gonna build a jig on a spare table top that will allow me to have the router in a fixed position (cutter facing down) and allow me to slide the oak through the jig. Easy to build.

2)I cant see on the original design, if the deviders are reabted into the oak frame or if they are just a loose fit into the frame.
I would like to have it quite strong so will try to rebate the dividers into the oak. I can see this being a real bitch to do and will have to make up another jig to try and align the rebates on the opposing pieces of the frame

3) Router 1/8 inch rebate on rear of frame pieces to accept the 1/8 inch backing ply.

4)Round over edge of frame with router.

5) rather than butt-joint the corners, I will probably mitre them. Any advice on strenthening the mitres, rather than just glue?

6) Machine down left-hand piece of frame and glue to perspex.

7) Clamp dividers between two pieces of softwood and cut slots using compound mitre saw.

8) Assemble and paint/varnish.

Hope this sequence makes sense. If not how would you do it?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Dub, I would suggest painting and finishing inside of cabinet before assembly.

Glued mitred corners with a let in back should be plenty strong. :thumbsup:

Hope that helps,
Scott


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## dub warrior2 (Feb 25, 2010)

So the solution................... Make my own.



















Its took me a couple of days and has been done to the exact dimesnions for a lot less than the inspirations cost.
Its an oak frame with painted MDF dividers and will have a glass/perspex front that will side to the left (or right).

This one is a 10x8 car model, so that I can have several cases on my wall.
Will take some better pics when its loaded up and hung on my bedroom wall.
PS Speed Racer car has been used just to confirm scale.

I am very proud of the jig that I made for most of the routing work.
It consists of two strips of soft wood screwed to an old piece of worksurface, just wide enough for the 3 1/2" oak to slide through.
Two more strips of soft wood are screwed to the top of this, just wide enough for my router to fit between.

From this, I can then push the oak through to rebate, or push my router across the wood to rebate the little grooves for the dividers.
Its a sort of upside down router table.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Looks great!

Good job! :thumbsup:


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Very nice, Dub!:thumbsup::yes:


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Now your ready for some glass doors.


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