# Should I use sanding sealer?



## nolo (Apr 14, 2009)

I'm not going to apply a stain to the wood. I want it to have its natural look. Should I apply sanding sealer to the wood before applying polyurethane? I'm looking for a low gloss look. What other types of protective coatings are available other than polyurethane?

I am using yellow select pine. Can I use wood filler to fill minor imperfections? I was wondering if the wood filler would be noticeable. 

Thanks in advance for any help.


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

Poly is a good choice. I use lacquer on most things. Semi-gloss lacquer is easy to sand and the finish is very durable. As for the wood filler, it will show up when you apply the finish, no matter what finish you use.


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## SeeDBee (Oct 27, 2008)

*sanding sealer*

I recently finished a job of refinishing some older kitchen cabinets where I could sand the old finish off, then I applied a coat of sanding sealer. After that dried I sanded it with 120 grit, then applied only one coat of poly clear satin finish.

I was amazed at how well the project came out. I have pics somewhere of the before and after. If you'd like to see let me know and I'll dig them out.

Yes, the filler will show unless it's tinted to match. 

Chuck


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

If you have some scrap wood you could try the wood filler on that and see just how noticeable it turns out. You may find that it is or is not acceptable.

G


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

I used to just use lacquer and sand between coats, But sanding sealer is so much easier, It powders beautifully, One whisper coat of sealer, and two wet coats, Let it dry for at least 3 hours(for lacquer) sand, and 3 coats of clear. You will be very happy.


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## Hhaines (Nov 26, 2008)

I make a lot of bowls, boxes and small stuff......routinely I use 3 thinned down coats of sanding sealer and sand between coats with 330 grit paper......then I spray several coats of lacquer without sanding between coats.......I thin the lacquer 50%.......Lacquer builds very well and adheres well with additional coats......I like high gloss for a highly polished finish......for small one of stuff it's hard to beat the spray lacquer at the hardware store......


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Satin water based polyurethane is a very natural looking finish that doesn't yellow or tint the wood. For filling the minor imperfections you could try sanding some of the wood with fine sandpaper, collecting the dust, and mixing it with the polyurethane. It will still likely show up somewhat, but it shouldn't show too badly. Try a sample on the back side of one of your boards to see how it looks.
Thin your first coat of poly if you are going to sand between coats.

Gerry


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You asked several questions, so HERE is a short version of some choices.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Woodfiller*



nolo said:


> .............I was wondering if the wood filler would be noticeable.


Wood filler will be noticeable. This can work for or against you. Its kinda like a joint - if you cant hide it, accent it. If you want to try to blend it in, the best way is to apply a light coat of your finish onto the wood. This will give you the final 'color' of the wood to be matched and then make your filler patch. Take a graining pen of the appropriate color and draw in some light grain lines. Then complete your finish coatings. 
The technique I would use is dependent on what I am trying to fill in.

My most used technique for small gaps was just posted by me on another post but here it is .... If the gaps are relatively small, I apply the thinnest CA glue (Cyano Acralate glue AKA super glue under brand names such as Hot Stuff, ZAP) into the crack. It will usually suck right in. The I sprinkle a small mound of sawdust over the crack and press it in with my index finger. and blow away the remainder. Then I hit it again with more CA glue and then more sawdust until the crack is filled while continually brushing or blowing away the excess dust. This will dry in just a few minutes and can then be sanded. If you use an "Accelerator" it will dry instantly.

Any excess spilled CA glue should be immediately wiped up with a rag and lacquer thinner or acetone.

When you are finished the tip of your index finger will be coated with a hard crusted layer of glue and sawdust. You will slowly find yourself picking at it in about an hour or so and most will peel off. When you take a shower, it will all come off.

The CA glue and sawdust will dry slightly darker than the original sawdust which is desireable. Your eye will accept a darker line more than a lighter one and your repair will be virtually 'invisible'.

If I was filling in a bad knot hole or split , I would use epoxy with an appropriate dye for coloring.

__________________


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