# Built-in Bookcase / Library



## custom_c10 (Nov 26, 2010)

Ok everyone, after much searching and research on the forum I think I am ready to ask some questions and open my initial sketch to some constructive criticism!
I am building a built-in bookcase for my wife, who is a teacher and has a baffling number of books. Our finished basement has a bulkhead at 81.5" tall that will house the bookcase nicely. The wall is 212.5" long and she would like to have 16" deep shelves.
As you can see in the sketch below (poor scan qualitym had to touch it up with _Paint_), I have the unit divided into 5 seperate entities which I will build individually then join upon install:









I will be building the frames and shelves out of 3/4" and painting white. I would like some suggestions on *what wood* to use????
I intend to dado the sides and back for the shelves to add strength and assist with alignment upon assembly. I will also be adding 2" nosing to help strenthen the shelf as I know 40" is a large span. 

This is a major project for me and I'm sure I haven't explained one thing or another very clear so please feel free to offer all of your thoughts and suggestions as I am relatively green and want to learn everything I can!

Thanks,
Ryan


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Poplar would be my choice for paint grade FF.

Also Poplar nosing for plywood shelves. 

No need to dado the back.


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## wormwood (Aug 6, 2008)

I built some shelves similar to what you want in the basement of a prev house.

I used alder and birch veneer plywood. Opening was for a big TV back in the rear projection days.

10.5 foot ceiling.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

40" is a fairly long shelf for supporting books.

You may want to have a look here.

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm :smile:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I would divide them up into 6 sections. I would rabbet the ends, and the tops and bottoms to receive the back (just stapled in). No need to dado the shelves. You might dado just the cross members across the cabinets at the top of the cabinet openings (29"+/-).

The rest of the shelving I would put on shelf clips (adjustable) so they can be flipped. With the cabinets being around 32" wide, you'll maximize cutting the plywood as you'll get 3 pieces per length rip. With the narrower cabinet width the doors will be about 16" which would be a whole lot better than 20".












 







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## custom_c10 (Nov 26, 2010)

Thanks everyone wo replied so far.

@wormwood: That's a gorgeous piece, I just finally got rid of my 55" rear projection last month lol.

@mdntrdr: I like the poplar suggestion and will have nosing for sure, thanks. I agree that the 40" shelf is long and I actually checked the sagulator a few days ago. Interestingly, it seems to suggest that the sag will be within reason. However I am considering cabinetman's suggestions of breaking into 6

@cabinetman: I'm just not sure what to do design-wise if I split into 6 sections. My wife wants the maximum amount of bookspace possible and actually objected to adding the toychest/bench in the first place. I want it because I like the symmetry and I think it breaks up the design from having a wall full of shelf lines. Thank you for taking the time to point out the dimensions of your proposal. One question I have is that with a 212" wall, 6 sections would imply just over 35" per section; If I use 32"shelves and 3/4 frames that would put me up to 33.5"ea so would you suggest that I just make up the additional width by spacing the sections out a little more and using a wider vertical face frame to cover the gap?

What are your guys' thoughts on this? Any suggestions for how to break this into 6 sections and maintain an appeasing design? I would really like to keep this design but am definitely not opposed to hearing your infinitely more experienced ideas!!!:surrender:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

custom_c10 said:


> @cabinetman: I'm just not sure what to do design-wise if I split into 6 sections. My wife wants the maximum amount of bookspace possible and actually objected to adding the toychest/bench in the first place. I want it because I like the symmetry and I think it breaks up the design from having a wall full of shelf lines. Thank you for taking the time to point out the dimensions of your proposal. One question I have is that with a 212" wall, 6 sections would imply just over 35" per section; If I use 32"shelves and 3/4 frames that would put me up to 33.5"ea so would you suggest that I just make up the additional width by spacing the sections out a little more and using a wider vertical face frame to cover the gap?


What I'm suggesting is make your shelves (the cross pieces) 31 7/8". That way you'll get 3 pieces from a length of plywood. For the depth, cut the ends and tops and bottoms 15 7/8" wide, and you'll get 3 across a sheet of plywood.

Depending on how you put them together, and you'll have to do the math, make your face frames wide enough across each cabinet. You could cut a single vertical stile between cabinets for a cleaner look. The cabinets below are divided up with a fluted column between cabinets. Maybe something like that. If it fits wall to wall, the ends could have some decorative detailing. If you divide up the gap, it will look right and you'll maximize your materials.
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