# Gluing veneers to plastic



## eviglotti (May 15, 2018)

Hello,

I have a plastic widget that has some smooth, fairly gentle curves that go for about 6" and I want to glue some 1mm or so thick veneers that I have cut out of different types of wood. What would be the best glue to use? CA glue, standard titebond wood glue or something else? I'd like to have a little working time to move them around so I can reduce any gaps between veneers top to bottom, but I need it to be permanently attached so it looks like solid wood and I can sand the edges, joints, etc.

Thanks!


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

Except for the "working time" part, I would have recommended contact adhesive. I guess epoxy would be good, it'll work with plastics.

What kind of plastic?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

eviglotti said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have a plastic widget that has some smooth, fairly gentle curves that go for about 6" and I want to glue some 1mm or so thick veneers that I have cut out of different types of wood. What would be the best glue to use? CA glue, standard titebond wood glue or something else? I'd like to have a little working time to move them around so I can reduce any gaps between veneers top to bottom, but I need it to be permanently attached so it looks like solid wood and I can sand the edges, joints, etc.
> 
> Thanks!


You could glue the veneer on with contact cement. Contact cement in general isn't a long term adhesive so if you need it to last I would use "Epoxy For Plastic". Either adhesive I would roughen the area where the veneer goes with sandpaper first.


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## eviglotti (May 15, 2018)

Thank you. The "plastic" is technically 3D printed plastic, specifically PLA (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid). I like using wood glue for clamp/glue ups as it's so easy to wipe off, clean up, sand off, etc, but I definitely want something that is best suited for this purpose...

In terms of epoxy, are we thinking this type of stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plas...1526482741&sr=8-2&keywords=epoxy+for+plastics

How would this do with the wood, I'm hoping it wouldn't soak through the wood and ruin the grain? Would it expand and push out the veneer? I would like this to last as I would like the veneer to just look and act as if it is part of the original 3D printed part.

Thanks!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

eviglotti said:


> Thank you. The "plastic" is technically 3D printed plastic, specifically PLA (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid). I like using wood glue for clamp/glue ups as it's so easy to wipe off, clean up, sand off, etc, but I definitely want something that is best suited for this purpose...
> 
> In terms of epoxy, are we thinking this type of stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plas...1526482741&sr=8-2&keywords=epoxy+for+plastics
> 
> ...


The plastic is what is difficult to bond. The glue would adhere to the wood much better. It doesn't expand like gorilla glue but you need to not apply the glue thick around the edges. What ever gets squeezed out would be difficult to clean off. You would need a solvent like lacquer thinner or acetone to clean it off. It won't soak through the veneer. It's not like super glue, it's a very thick paste even thicker than regular epoxy. Since you are unfamiliar with the glue you might mix a very small batch and glue a scrap of veneer to something to get a feel of how it is going to work.


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## eviglotti (May 15, 2018)

All makes complete sense. Which do we think would be better or do you happen to have a better recommendation?

This one seems to be a plastic type epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044FBB8C?tag=vs-home-convert-amazon-20

But this one is gel contact cement and it says it's ok for wood AND plastic so maybe this would be good? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006MUPXY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Though I have to say I'm a bit concerned as one review talked about it spontaneously catching fire 

No matter what I will definitely try some scrap, but any advice between the two options (or something else) would be much appreciated!

Thanks!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

eviglotti said:


> All makes complete sense. Which do we think would be better or do you happen to have a better recommendation?
> 
> This one seems to be a plastic type epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044FBB8C?tag=vs-home-convert-amazon-20
> 
> ...


That particular weldwood contact cement I've never used before however there is nothing in it that is prone to spontaneous combustion. It does have flammable solvents in it and if someone doesn't provide adequate ventilation with any solvent all it takes is a little spark to ignite it. The one review just didn't know how to work with solvents. Any electric motor can create a spark as well as a light switch. 

I have to say I'm confused by the reason for a "Gel" contact cement. Regular weldwood contact cement will stick to vertical surfaces just fine. You can brush it, roll it or spray it anywhere. The only drip might be off of a brush while applying it. 

The only problem you might have using contact cement is it's more temperamental on how it is applied and used. You have to apply the right amount with sufficient texture and let it dry the right length of time before you stick it. Then when you apply it you have to lay the veneer exactly where it is to stay. There is no sitting it down and adjusting it. It sticks on contact. 

If you brush contact cement on chances are it will go on smooth like paint. This doesn't make for good adhesion. Using a brush it would be better to use just the end of the brush dabbing it on so what is on the surface is a little rough. If you roll it, it's best to use a texture roller for the same reason, a rough surface is better. This is what makes spraying contact cement more popular. Then once you get the glue applied you have to wait until it dries completely. If you run your hand over it and it feels sticky or some of it comes off on your hand it's not dry. You have to let each surface dry until it feels like the surface is covered with rubber before you stick it. Then you lay something like dowel rods over the surface of the plastic to hold the veneer up until you get it to where you want it and then gently pull a rod out of the middle and set the veneer down. Then gently pull the rest of the rods out and lay the veneer down. 

Using contact cement for gluing veneer to a surface like plastic would work well but I wouldn't advise using the same procedure on a piece of wood. Wood expands and contracts and contact cement isn't strong enough to hold. If the wood shrinks the veneer would buckle and come loose. It might just be a bubble in the middle but you could expect problems.


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## eviglotti (May 15, 2018)

Thank you Steve, this is all super information! This may be a bit more of an undertaking than I'm prepared for at the moment...What do you think about the Epoxy route, such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044FBB8C?tag=vs-home-convert-amazon-20 if I'm glueing wood veneer to plastic then? Or is there another option in mind that might be best? 

Thanks!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

eviglotti said:


> Thank you Steve, this is all super information! This may be a bit more of an undertaking than I'm prepared for at the moment...What do you think about the Epoxy route, such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044FBB8C?tag=vs-home-convert-amazon-20 if I'm glueing wood veneer to plastic then? Or is there another option in mind that might be best?
> 
> Thanks!


Either adhesive would work and I didn't mean to scare you about the contact cement, I was just trying to give you all the information about working it as I could. 



The epoxy for plastic would be simpler. The only issue is you will have to work fast. The glue starts to thicken up pretty soon after you mix it. At least you will be able to lay the veneer in position and move it around until you get in the right position. It will need a little clamp pressure to insure there is no air spaces between the veneer and the glue.


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## eviglotti (May 15, 2018)

Thanks again and no worries, definitely not scaring me about the contact cement, I completely appreciate all of the info!!!

Sorry, last question, I think I'll go the Epoxy for plastic route. Is the one I quoted from Amazon a decent choice? It seems most applicable for plastic to plastic, but probably ok for plastic to wood you think?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

eviglotti said:


> Thanks again and no worries, definitely not scaring me about the contact cement, I completely appreciate all of the info!!!
> 
> Sorry, last question, I think I'll go the Epoxy for plastic route. Is the one I quoted from Amazon a decent choice? It seems most applicable for plastic to plastic, but probably ok for plastic to wood you think?


I've used the epoxy for plastic you have in the link and also JB Weld Plastic Bonder and either one works good. The adhesive will bond to wood far better than it would to plastic so you have nothing to worry about on that aspect. 



My daughter had a minor bump on her car and broke a spot about 6" in diameter on the right corner of the bumper cover. I first used plastic welding to put the pieces back in place and then went over the back side of it with the epoxy and sticking fiberglass cloth in it. The repair held when she was hit again so I'm pretty impressed with the adhesive. Too much work to fix it again, we got another bumper cover.


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## eviglotti (May 15, 2018)

Wow, impressive! Again, thank you so much for the help and I'll give it a try!


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