# Ripping a 1/4" thick yard stick



## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

Okay, I have a special application for a strip(s) of wood the same width as 1X and 1/4" thick.

While at the sailboar show in Annapolis I picked up a handful of yardsticks that would save me ripping lumber to this dimension.....

I have a weird craftsman handled push stick thingy that rides on my fence and would hold this piece of wood down while I ripped/trimmed off enough to end up with 3/4" x1/4" strip....

Is this crazy to do?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Not crazy at all, no sireebob. Just use a zero-clearance insert, so that your cut-off doesn't get sucked down into the saw


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

If you need to ever do this again, I would just plane a board to 3/4" and rip 1/4" strips off of it.

George


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

I can never remember the safety rule of thumb for ripping stuff on a table saw.....

something about keeping the narrowest piece you are cutting off on the outside, instead of between the fence and the blade????? or does this matter.... 

(I dont have a planer) but I could go out and buy some 1/4" stock, position my fence to cut 3/4" with the uncut stock on the outside ( not between the blade and the fence)

- is this the how most people would do this? 

Even though I am ripping a small yardstick, the fact that its being small stock makes me nervous unless it is ok to do it this way safely...


GeorgeC said:


> If you need to ever do this again, I would just plane a board to 3/4" and rip 1/4" strips off of it.
> 
> George


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## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

Be certain to use a sharp fine tooth blade, and as stated a zero clearance insert. Be safe.


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

The zero clearance insert is an elusive creature...I can't find one and finding the right stock of the righ thickness has eluded me forever....I will try this after breakfast! thanks again!


woodchux said:


> Be certain to use a sharp fine tooth blade, and as stated a zero clearance insert. Be safe.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I would rip a tad oversize and use a planer to bring them to their final size.


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

I have one of them Bosch hand planers but we are talkn yardsticks...hoefully my setup will be close enough for my purpose which is makeing feeder shims 1/4" taller for 5 bee hive colonies...something called "bee space" that needs to be maintained and I am off by a critical 1/4" and the bees know it....


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

I used a 200 tooth saw blade and made perfectly acurate cuts thanks to you and everyone who reposnded! Thank you !!!


woodchux said:


> Be certain to use a sharp fine tooth blade, and as stated a zero clearance insert. Be safe.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

A 200 tooth blade?


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

was it something I said? Yeah 200 teeth, not bicuspids mind you: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Tooth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*That's a plywood blade*

It's a blade designed to cut plywood, 3/4" and less. It's not carbide tipped either. It's not meant for ripping, since there is no deep gullets to carry away the the chips and dust. I wouldn't use it ... even on plywood.











I only use carbide tipped blades and they are cheap enough in any tooth pattern to have several, 40 TPI for general purpose, 24 TPI for ripping thicker stock and 60 TPI for cross cutting in most thicknesses.

I would start with 1" thick stock, set the fence to 1/4" away from the blade and use my 40 TPI blade. I would have a push stick handy, laying on top of the fence or just on the other side to push the thin strip all the way through when it gets close to completing the cut The push stick can be thinner than 1/4" OR if it's thicker, it will become "sacrificial" when it gets chewed up running it over the blade but it will still work just fine.

There are special pusher gizmos that ride along the fence if you want to spend the money for a commercial one and have a lot of these to make. 










You can make your own also:


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

hey man thanks but it is done. Everything is prefect.. I didn't use that particular blade, I just grabbed a link for a 200 tooth blade....WOODCHUX suggested I use a sharp fine tooth blade so I looked under my saw and saw a blade I haven't used in years ; it cut just fine and really clean...i have this craftsman fence guide system that is great-mine is yellow. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181812031993?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I made this adjustable pusher. I use a wider foot on it for wider cuts.
I always cut narrow strips between fence and blade.
Knob is just for pushing. T track is for other attachments.


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

I like it ..tell us more show us more...?


Pirate said:


> I made this adjustable pusher. I use a wider foot on it for wider cuts.
> I always cut narrow strips between fence and blade.
> Knob is just for pushing. T track is for other attachments.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

vdotmatrix said:


> hey man thanks but it is done. Everything is prefect.. I didn't use that particular blade, I just grabbed a link for a 200 tooth blade....WOODCHUX suggested I use a sharp fine tooth blade so I looked under my saw and saw a blade I haven't used in years ; it cut just fine and really clean...i have this craftsman fence guide system that is great-mine is yellow. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181812031993?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82


Good lord that is a stupidly elaborate gizmo. Seems like the kindve thing one would try to use once, then get fed up with how bloody difficult it is to get all the knobs and levers to play together to work right and never use it again.

Personally, i like this:
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2007/05/25/sn/

Nothing to adjust, you dont have to set anything, the worst you have to do is replace the heel every once in a while. Best thing? Its free to make!


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

vdotmatrix said:


> I like it ..tell us more show us more...?


Here is a pic of it while cutting narrow strips.
The shoe is adjustable up and down and sideways. I like to push in the center of a board to prevent it cocking during the cut.
I only use the 90 tooth blade on thin stock when ripping.
My left hand doesn't move. Just keeps the board against the fence, before the blade.
It's a real easy way to rip narrow strips fast, and safely.
The other day I ripped 4, 1/16" thick strips for project. It was the easiest part of the job!


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

You know that is actullay pretty cool. You can adjust to the height of the stock and then lock it down with the wing nuts. If there is some kind of friction surface on the bottom of this thing it will grab the stock and move it along when you move the grab-handle (knob)....very cool...I'd like to make one...thanks Man!!1


Pirate said:


> Here is a pic of it while cutting narrow strips.
> The shoe is adjustable up and down and sideways. I like to push in the center of a board to prevent it cocking during the cut.
> I only use the 90 tooth blade on thin stock when ripping.
> My left hand doesn't move. Just keeps the board against the fence, before the blade.
> ...


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

vdotmatrix said:


> You know that is actullay pretty cool. You can adjust to the height of the stock and then lock it down with the wing nuts. If there is some kind of friction surface on the bottom of this thing it will grab the stock and move it along when you move the grab-handle (knob)....very cool...I'd like to make one...thanks Man!!1


No friction material. If you look close at the first picture, you can see the notch at the bottom of the foot.


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## ducbsa (Jul 6, 2014)

There's this jig:

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/make-a-thin-strip-cutting-jig/

or this:

http://www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig

That one can be home-made by just clamping a piece of scrap to your miter gage in the left hand slot.


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