# Router table for making raised panels



## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Hey guys, i am getting ready to build a router table for my small, part time cabinet building venture. I already own a couple of routers, (Craftsman 2HP and a Skill 2.25HP) routers, but I am unsure if either one would be sufficient enough for my intended use of this router table. I own three shaper tables but only two are functional, and I use one that is perminately setup for stiles and the other is perminately setup for running rails. I need a way to make raised panels and don't want to use either of my existing shapers for this, for multiple reasons that I won't go into.

Anyway, I want to use this soon to be built router table for two main purposes, that is, putting round over and ogee profiles on the outside edges of the cabinet doors that I build, and I also want to use this router table for making raised panels, temporarily until I can get my dead shaper table fixed. My questions are; can I use my existing 2HP Craftsman or 2.25HP Skill for panel raising, or would a 3HP router be an absolute requirement? I don't mind taking multiple passes. Most of my panels will be either maple or MDF, almost exclusively. I found a Dewalt DW625 router locally for $170, it is a 3HP unit I believe. So if you guys think that having a 3HP unit is an absolute necessity, I will pick it up on Monday. Any opinions on this would be great.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

You can get by with a 2 - 2 1/4 hp router but like you mentioned it will take multiple passes. A 3+ hp router would be better yes, but if it were me I'd focus on getting your third shaper up and running instead of buying another router.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Chamfer said:


> You can get by with a 2 - 2 1/4 hp router but like you mentioned it will take multiple passes. A 3+ hp router would be better yes, but if it were me I'd focus on getting your third shaper up and running instead of buying another router.


I agree that getting my shaper going would be optimal, unfortunately I haven't been successful with getting it fixed. We have an electric motor repair shop about 30 minutes away, but, they are expensive and I don't really trust them to fix it. I took a couple of Gracco sprayers to the last week, all they did was replace a fuse in one and put a new power cord on the other, and the bill was over $150, and they just got them to turn on, not actually function. On top of that, I paid they $50 upfront for just an estimate, and told them not to fix anything until I approved the est, and they didn't do that. Wish that I had more options on getting this thing fixed


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Danny,
If you're going to be using the large raised panel router bit, (3 1/4"), do the cut in two or three passes. Final pass should just be taking maybe a 1/16" as a cleanup cut. I use a 3 1/2 hp Milwaukee in my table. If it's a softer wood, it'll hog it out in pass if I want to. I usually figure a clean up pass. Other thing you could do is take an angle cut on your table saw with the panel up on edge, to remove most of the waste wood. Then run it through your router.
Mike Hawkins:smile3:


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Chamfer said:


> You can get by with a 2 - 2 1/4 hp router but like you mentioned it will take multiple passes. A 3+ hp router would be better yes, but if it were me I'd focus on getting your third shaper up and running instead of buying another router.


+1: I agree. 
A small hp router will do the job if you're willing to make multiple passes. Some small routers will only accept 1/4" shanked bits. The raised panel cutters are usually 1/2" shank. 
I burned up a relatively new 3hp DeWalt running red oak raised panels. 
I was running a new large raised panel bit, cutting in one pass. 
I've learned I need to keep a better eye on the router and stop if the motor heats up and allow some cool down time between cuts or else make multiple cuts to take some of the strain off. 
You don't have to worry about this with a shaper.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

firehawkmph said:


> Danny,
> If you're going to be using the large raised panel router bit, (3 1/4"), do the cut in two or three passes. Final pass should just be taking maybe a 1/16" as a cleanup cut. I use a 3 1/2 hp Milwaukee in my table. If it's a softer wood, it'll hog it out in pass if I want to. I usually figure a clean up pass. Other thing you could do is take an angle cut on your table saw with the panel up on edge, to remove most of the waste wood. Then run it through your router.
> Mike Hawkins:smile3:


That is a great idea that I hadn't considered. That is, running the panel through the table saw on edge with the blade tilted to remove most of the material that would otherwise be waiste for the router to remove. I wish that I had that big Milwaukee 3.5HP router like you have! That thing is a beast. I have always loved Milwaukee tools as they are built like tanks. I just do not own very many as they are also very expensive..


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

I am going to look at a used Dewalt DW625 3HP router this afternoon. The owner wants something like $170 for it, but I am going to offer him $150. Does that seem like a good deal? I will then either be building myself a router table, or buying the cheaper $135 Grizzly router table. Haven't made up my mind on that. 

Can anyone tell me if the Dewalt DW625 has above the table height adjustment? Is $150-$170 a good price for the DW625?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*good price? not a good choice!*

A plunge router in a table is difficult to make height adjustments because when you release the lock the motor wants to return to the bottom. It's a better hand held router where plunging the bit down is done way more often.

A better choice for a table, without using router lift, is a router with height adjustment built in, or "above the table", as they call it. Here's a discussion:
http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...r-integral-above-table-height-bit-change.html

I have 2 routers like that, a Freud 1700 now discontinued, and a Milwaukee 5625-20 a 3 1/2 HP "beast". I got mine a few years back on Amazon for $260.00 if I recall. Here's some good deals:
http://finderscheapers.com/product-...sepower-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed-1GOI768TJ2J

The Bosch gets good reviews, but I don't know if it has the above the table adjustable height feature?
It does come with the 2 bases in the kit:

http://woodroutercenter.com/bosch-1617evspk-wood-router-review/


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

have you considered the vertical raised panel bits, they are more suited for smaller router hp's.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

TimPa said:


> have you considered the vertical raised panel bits, they are more suited for smaller router hp's.


Tim, actually I have briefly looked into getting a vertical raised panel bit, and might go that direction. I just need to make sure that if I do go with a vertical raised panel bit, it would need to leave a 1/4" lip on the outside to fit into my stiles. This may be easy like a traditional raised panel bit that you can adjust up or down to get the desired lip on the outside, I don't know. Maybe the lip could be adjusted by the fence position? 

If I go with a vertical raised panel bit, would my 2HP Cratsman work ok for this? It has adjustable speed settings


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

the vertical bit would offer the same capabilities as the horizontal for edge thickness. yes the bit height an fence position are used. you still do not want to remove all the material in one pass. I use the table saw to remove the bulk (as mentioned earlier). your router will be fine, I use a 1 1/2 hp with these.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

TimPa said:


> the vertical bit would offer the same capabilities as the horizontal for edge thickness. yes the bit height an fence position are used. you still do not want to remove all the material in one pass. I use the table saw to remove the bulk (as mentioned earlier). your router will be fine, I use a 1 1/2 hp with these.


Interesting. Any particular brands that you might recommend for if I purchase a vertical raised panel bit? If I decide to build my own router table, let's assume that this table would only be used with the vertical raised panel bit, are there any special things that I could add to my home made router table that would make it more optimal for this purpose? I could easily do two router tables as I have multiple routers and have a dedicated vertical raised panel bit, and the other just for general router table usage.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

Danny870 said:


> Interesting. Any particular brands that you might recommend for if I purchase a vertical raised panel bit? If I decide to build my own router table, let's assume that this table would only be used with the vertical raised panel bit, are there any special things that I could add to my home made router table that would make it more optimal for this purpose? I could easily do two router tables as I have multiple routers and have a dedicated vertical raised panel bit, and the other just for general router table usage.


although it may seem that you may never have another use for the router table, it is extremely likely you will down the road.


the brand will fall into the category of you get what you pay for. I usually go middle of the road to high, freud, amana, whiteside.. for the table, you will want a high fence (6" or so) to support the panel vertically as you work it. good luck.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Do you guys know any thing or have any opinions on the horizontal router table from MLCS woodworking? It looks pretty cool, and allows the stock to lay flat when routing with a vertical raised panel bit. Pretty neat. I wonder if I could make something like this...? It cost $180 or so, which isn't too bad.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Ok, so I am thinking seriously about ordering the horizontal router table from MLCS. It looks like it would make it much easier to use a vertical raised panel bit as the router is held in the horizontal position so that the panels runs flat and face down on the surface of the table.

When I get ready to make my door panels, after getting the panels glued up, planed, and do the innitial sanding, I will bring them over to the table saw and take off a good bit of the material with it, leaving less work for my router to do the raised panels, and this would allow me to keep my current router, and not have to buy an expensive 3HP unit. 

I own two routers so I can dedicate one to this horizontal router table, (most likely my 2HP adjustable speed Craftsman) and build a traditional table for my take my 2.25HP Skill router.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

Danny870 said:


> Do you guys know any thing or have any opinions on the horizontal router table from MLCS woodworking? It looks pretty cool, and allows the stock to lay flat when routing with a vertical raised panel bit. Pretty neat. I wonder if I could make something like this...? It cost $180 or so, which isn't too bad.


there has been several horizontal router station build threads on this board. apologize I can't remember his name. he does a nice job.


so if you are interested in building one, search for it.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I try to make sense of this and can't. You need to take one of the two stile and rail shapers and make it a dedicated raised panel shaper. Much easier and not as hard on the machine to make stile/rails with a a router table setup. It's a much more complcated setup for raised panels unless your current shapers are under powered...


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

​


TimPa said:


> there has been several horizontal router station build threads on this board. apologize I can't remember his name. he does a nice job.
> 
> 
> so if you are interested in building one, search for it.


AL B Thayer is the one with the table. Pretty slick litte setup too


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Rebelwork said:


> I try to make sense of this and can't. You need to take one of the two stile and rail shapers and make it a dedicated raised panel shaper. Much easier and not as hard on the machine to make stile/rails with a a router table setup. It's a much more complcated setup for raised panels unless your current shapers are under powered...


There are several reasons that I don't want to use my existing two functional shapers for this, for one, I have already invested hundreds of dollars in stile and rail shaper cutters, I now have two stile and rail cutter sets that are different in only the profile cutter, and I have one shaker style stile and rail set. On top of that, one of my shapers is 1/2HP and the other is only 3/4HP, which is a little under powered for my big raised panel cutter. Plus, the vast majority of my clients always choose the same profile for the stiles and rails, meaning that I don't have to tear everything down to change cutters very often. It would be so much better if I could get my old Delta work horse up and running, but so far, I have not been able to do that.

In the mean time, I will do a search and see if I can find a good set of plans for a horizontal router table, otherwise I may go ahead and purchase the MLCS horizontal router table, or, I could buy the used Dewalt DW625 that I came across. I can only afford one at this time, so I will have to do some thinking and decide on either a 3HP Dewalt router, or a horizontal router table from MLCS. Decisions Decisions!


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

Danny870 said:


> Do you guys know any thing or have any opinions on the horizontal router table from MLCS woodworking? It looks pretty cool, and allows the stock to lay flat when routing with a vertical raised panel bit. Pretty neat. I wonder if I could make something like this...? It cost $180 or so, which isn't too bad.



here is a fellow link to his home made version... it is in this forum 
a couple of threads down
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/changing-my-router-position-127321/


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*this will explain the difference*

Horizontal vs vertical panel raising bits discussed here FYI:
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/horizontal-vs-vertical-raised-panel-router-bits/


A vertical bit used in a horizontal table is much better and easier to use because the panel can rest on the table not against the fence.






A really simple horizontal router table:






If the work raises off the table using a large panel raiser in your router table, you'll end up with a "bump" which is a lot easier to correct with an additional pass.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

I picked up the Dewalt DW625 3HP router from a local Pawn Shop yesterday. Got them down on the price to $99 so I am happy with that! I want to try my hand at building a router table for this unit, so for now, I will scrap the plans for a horizontal router table, and start with the traditional router table, however, I would like to possibly build the horizontal router table at some point in the future.

Can anyone suggest a plate for the Dewalt DW625? It is a plunge router so I want to try and get by without a router lift, for now. I think that I will keep this very simple, and just build a rectangular table with the top being approx 24" x 36" and drill a hole for the bit to extend through, might not even bother with a plate, just mount the router directly to the under side and use its plunge abilities to adjust bit height. Does this sound ok so far? Any suggestions on how to do the fence?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*not that good....*

Did you see the very simple horizontal table video? Your plunge router will be difficult to adjust the height from under the table as I stated long ago. If you use that router in the simple horizontal table I posted it will be way easier, since you can see what you are doing and it's accessible from above.

The plunge/spring feature returns the router motor to the top of the base when you release the clamp. You have to overcome this spring pressure to precisely adjust the height ... a PITA. Some folks have removed the springs, but then it's no longer useful for plunge routing. 

That very simple table is a great way to adjust the height on a pivot and a locking knob with a slot. You could make a more precise adjustment using a threaded rod against a stop, then use the locking knob.

Height adjustments and depth adjustment are critical in table routing so any means of making them more precise and easy to access will make you work more accurate. You can chose one depth adjustment and then work with the height adjustment for incremental cuts OR vice versa. I have router lifts on my tables and believe me, there is nothing like having very precise height adjustments. :nerd2:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I have used two Dewalt 625 routers in my router table for doors. As much as I liked the Dewalt 625 both the speed controllers went out on making raised panels. Replaced both($30ea) and one went faulty again. Both have been pulled and replaced with an older PC model for raised panels.

You can get a router raiser for around $89 and I think you can make your own.I never used one.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Rebelwork said:


> I have used two Dewalt 625 routers in my router table for doors. As much as I liked the Dewalt 625 both the speed controllers went out on making raised panels. Replaced both($30ea) and one went faulty again. Both have been pulled and replaced with an older PC model for raised panels.
> Aa
> You can get a router raiser for around $89 and I think you can make your own.I never used one.


I also have a DW 625. I burned it up cutting raised panels in Red Oak. I was able to get it repaired under warranty at a local service center. I've learned to watch it and not let it over heat. 
So far, so good.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Toolman50 said:


> I also have a DW 625. I burned it up cutting raised panels in Red Oak. I was able to get it repaired under warranty at a local service center. I've learned to watch it and not let it over heat.
> So far, so good.


I did not realize that there are so many failures with the DW625. That is a bummer since I have always had fairly good longitivity out of my Dewalt tools, and I have read that a lot of people also consider Dewalt to be a fairly good company when it come to power tools. 

But, I only paid $99 for this puppy, with no sales tax either. So if it goes out in a year, hopefully by then I can afford a new shaper or another 3HP router.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> Did you see the very simple horizontal table video? Your plunge router will be difficult to adjust the height from under the table as I stated long ago. If you use that router in the simple horizontal table I posted it will be way easier, since you can see what you are doing and it's accessible from above.
> 
> The plunge/spring feature returns the router motor to the top of the base when you release the clamp. You have to overcome this spring pressure to precisely adjust the height ... a PITA. Some folks have removed the springs, but then it's no longer useful for plunge routing.
> 
> ...



You are right, I could probably throw that simple table together in an hour or less. Might as well try and see if I get good results! Do you recommend using a router plate to mount the router in the horizontal position? Or should I just cut a hole in a piece of 3/4" plywood and screw the router directly to it?

With regards to the slot, should it be any particular length, or should it arch in any specific fashion? Or can I just cut the slot arch and eyeball it as I go? What would you recommend that I use for the pivot?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Wow, that a lot of questions.*



Danny870 said:


> You are right, I could probably throw that simple table together in an hour or less. Might as well try and see if I get good results!1.
> Do you recommend using a router plate to mount the router in the horizontal position? Or should I just cut a hole in a piece of 3/4" plywood and screw the router directly to it?
> 
> 2.
> ...



1. If you can use a router plate it will have different size inserts to reduce the opening, HOWEVER, your vertical bits won't be all that large in diameter, so inserts are probably not needed. You will need a thicker top like 3/4" or more so you can completely lower the bit below the surface.

2. and 3. The slot has to be a "radius" that corresponds to the distance between the pivot and the centerline of the slot... no eyeballin' that one.

4. The pivot can be a regular bolt with the smooth portion in the area which is pivoting and the threaded portion in the knob, if you use one at that end also. Otherwise, a spring pressure washer or some fiber washers will work to allow movement on the pivot, but no shifting on the bolt.

A simple drill press table:





My impression is that your questions show that you don't have a lot of experience making jigs and you would really benefit from watching some good You Tube videos OR looking at plan in Fine Wood Working or Shop notes etc. Rockler has a knob assortment kit for making jigs, standard bolts thread into them, 5/16" X 18, or 3/8" X 16 threads. OR you can use standard wing nuts of matching threads, but they don't look as cool or work as well.

http://www.rockler.com/search/go?w=jig%20knobs&asug=&sli_uuid=&sli_sid=


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> Seems like I get dogged anytime I post anything by James and he's always quoting that I have 50 years of experience.... and then slams me.





OnealWoodworking said:


> I DID stay on 'topic' best I could and there is NO sort of 'personal dispute'.
> 
> I like Bill. I have made this VERY clear in a PILE of posts here... :thumbsup:
> 
> If I did not like Bill, I would NOT tell him when he is full of crap. :no:


Look, i like you both and respect both of your work, so i really hope neither of you take this too personally from me, but its a little childish. I dont think anybody needs someone constantly pointing out when theyre wrong, nor should anybody pretend that theyre always correct because of their experience. What makes this forum so fun is that anybody can chime in with their opinion or knowledge, and nobody should have to worry about someone else jumping in just to argue, or derail a thread because someone disagreed with them. 

Can you guys pretty pretty please make up? For me? Or at the very least agree to stop attacking each others posts? People have differences in opinions, nothing to get worked up over or snipe each others opinions on, thats just a good way to get a thread locked and prevent information from being shared


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Thank you guys for the replies. You guys are correct in that I do not have much experience in making jigs. I have not been into woodworking nearly as long as some of you guys, and while my experience is limited, I love this stuff, it has become a huge passion of mine that stemmed from only a part time hobby. I have a college degree and almost have my masters complete. Unfortunately, I live in a very rural area and there aren't but two cabinet shops in an hour and a half drive from where I work. Yes, the pay sucks, but it's better than working a traditional white collar job that pays the same. We just do not have many businesses in my area, hence the reason that I have almost completed my MBA but work in a blue collar job. By building cabinets on the side I am hoping to be able to save up enough money to get into buying and selling real estate. Which is the overall goal. That is: buy an older house that needs repairs, fix said house up nice, then sell for a profit. My wife and I did two houses last year and made more in those 16 weeks than I made all year at the cabinet shop. We used that to pay off our debt to better position ourselves to buy more houses. 

Oh and the only other cabinet shop in my area pays roughly the same and from what I have gathered, is ran by a bunch of idiots. I work with 3 of their former employees and have seen their shotty work. Anyway, back to the topic at hand....


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Some posts removed to keep thread on topic.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> 1. If you can use a router plate it will have different size inserts to reduce the opening, HOWEVER, your vertical bits won't be all that large in diameter, so inserts are probably not needed. You will need a thicker top like 3/4" or more so you can completely lower the bit below the surface.
> 
> 2. and 3. The slot has to be a "radius" that corresponds to the distance between the pivot and the centerline of the slot... no eyeballin' that one.
> 
> ...


Ok, so with regards to your answer #2 and #3, how do I determine the radius and how do I know where to place it? 

I will admit, I kind of have anxiety about asking some of these questions as I do not want you guys to think that I am an idiot! I am a decent cabinet builder, but, I am not a carpenter or even that skilled of a wood worker. I am trying to soak in as much knowledge as is humanly possible, and am extremely grateful for the help and advice that this forum has provided.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK, I'll try to help out ..*

radius, an arc of a circle, measured from the center to a specific dimension in this case. 

That dimension is based on what ever you want the length of the table to be minus some material on the end, in the video about 16" to 18".

How do you make that arc or curved slot in the wood?
You'll need a thin piece of plywood, a plunge router, a pivot pin, some screws, and a hole for the straight bit to come through. I used that setup to make these large radius arc for a table sled... another jig you will need to build:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/table-saw-sled-build-49218/

 



I my case, the slot was also a shallow dado on the back side to allow for a T bolt to be flush on the back side and a knob to tighten it on top:

 

The pivot pin is 5/16" bolt for which I had some knobs on hand:

 











Hole placement! The pivot bolt, the router bit hole and the tightening bolt and knob are on on the same straight line. The slot has equal travel on either side of the locking knob to allow for fully up or fully down of the router bit. You won't need a whole lot of slot length or travel for a vertical panel bit, maybe 4" of overall slot length. You will want to drill the router bit hole just a tab bit larger than your bits diameter to allow it clearance on the side of the hole, probably about 1 1/4" or so.

The fence table can be any size, the larger the better for more support. The fence needs to be tall enough to mount your router and have room for the slot probably 7" or so depending on your router's base width.


The video shows a vertical board underneath for clamping in a vise. A small riser platform would make that unnecessary, you just need room for the router to drop below the table surface. You will want to clamp it down to the bench to keep it from sliding around when you apply feed pressure.

Materials: Any good quality cabinet plywood would be fine for both the table and the fence. You could use 1/2" thick for the fence which carries the router, but I would use 3/4" for the table.

If I missed a step let me know! :smile3:


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> radius, an arc of a circle, measured from the center to a specific dimension in this case.
> 
> That dimension is based on what ever you want the length of the table to be minus some material on the end, in the video about 16" to 18".
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply. I am still not understanding how I would determine where to put the slot? What measurement do I need and how can I calculate the position of the slot?

I may end up just doing something like a threaded rod with stops that would allow more precise adjustment. This seems easier and better overall to me. I also plan to build a nice table for horizontal routing with my newly bought Dewalt DW625, and use my 2HP Craftsman unit in the vertical table. I also plan to order a router raiser sometime next week after I let my funds recover.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's one*

Maybe this will help show how it's built;
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6714

I may make one for myself if time allows. It will be a version of the "simple" one in the video. I will take step by step photos of the build.

Here's a list of materials you would need for the horizontal router table build. It may be self explanatory how this goes together IF you look at the photo on the Video. You will drill 3 pilot holes in a straight line starting from the "P" pivot next to the "H" hole for the router bits, then to the "S" hole for the router slot. 
If you don't want to make the arced router slot, as for fence "A", just draw that radius on the board and saw it across using a bandsaw or jig saw. It will need to be spaced apart by the diameter of the bolt, about 5/16" to allow for the fence to rotate on the pivot bolt. Then screw the small piece to the table. 


You will enlarge the "H" hole in the fence for the largest router bit to pass through without touching.
You will mount the router base on the exact center of that hole and screw it down.
You will jigsaw, hole saw, or bandsaw an opening on the table to clear the largest router bit you will use.
You can use threaded plastic knobs, threaded wood knobs you make yourself, wing nuts, or just standard nuts and washers. 

Hope this helps................ :grin:


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> Maybe this will help show how it's built;
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6714
> 
> I may make one for myself if time allows. It will be a version of the "simple" one in the video. I will take step by step photos of the build.
> ...



Thanks again for all the work in that last post! Hopefully I will have time to build mine sometime this week. I am still a bit lost on how you determine where to put the slot and how curved the radius needs to be. Are there any measurement formulas or rules of thumb for this? I asked earlier if I could just eye ball this part and was told not to. If I could just figure out where to put the slot and how to do the optimal radius then I could build this thing fast.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Self explanatory build?*

OK, so based on the questions, I threw this router table together today. Hopefully between the dimensions written on the board, and the photographs you can build something similar. None of the dimensions are critical, except the slot must be drawn on using the distance from the 5/16" hole in the slot to the pivot hole, 5/16" at the far left, and that distance is not critical or specific, it's just what I thought would work best, in this case 15". There is an extra 5/16" hole on the far right which I did not use.

I used the router base plate centered over the 1 1/2" hole to mark the 3 mounting holes. Then I countersunk the holes on the back of this fence, which is the "working" face when in use. It has to be flush on that side in order for it to be adjustable. 

Disregard all the dimensions given in the previous post, since I used what I had on hand to build this unit.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Horizontal router table build*

I used a 1 1/8" think plank, and a 1/2" piece of Melamine for this build, just some scraps. I glued another 2 x 3 " for more locking surface for the fence. I jointed it square to the table surface and then used the 5/16" bannister bolts and washers with T knobs. I had to file the slot out ever so slightly, since it was a jig saw cut and not perfect. 0

To drive the 5/16" bannister bolts into the plank, I pre-drilled a 1/4" hole, "double nutted" them and used a ratchet to drive them in all the way up to the machine threads.


I used a 1 1/2" hole saw coming in from either side of the plank to get a nice radius for the bit clearance hole.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Disclaimer!*

OK, I haven't actually used this to run a panel since I don't own a panel raising bit for a horizontal router table. :surprise2: I made this to demonstrate how to build one for our member Danny870 who had some difficulty understanding the relationships of the holes and the slot. These shots show the bit in a "raised position" and of course it's too high above the table. The slot allows a wide range of height adjustment from zero to 2" or so above, more than you will ever need. For precise adjustments, a small "L" bracket and a fine threaded rod with a nut attached to the fence would work.

Instead of having vertical panel below the table for use in a vise, like the one in the video, you can just screw this unit to the bench top when in use with counterbored or flat head screw in countersunk holes.
It is clamped to my bench for the photo since it will tip because of the weight of the PC 690 router.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Looks great! It finally clicked in my head, so now I will attempt to build this thing sometime this week. Can you post a link for the banister bolts and knobs that you used for the pivot and slot adjustment? Unfortunately, I don't think we have any decent places to get those locally. Thanks for taking the time to go through all of this! Hopefully it will help more forum members other than just me.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*common items*

I picked up the 5/16" bannister bolts at Home Depot in the hand rail section. They are very common hardware items.
The knobs have internal 5/16" threads to match the bannister bolts. You can get them on Ebay or from Rockler:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DimcoGray...690271?hash=item488a0c0a9f:g:pV0AAOSwzgRWzPmL

http://www.rockler.com/1-3-8-round-knob-for-shop-jigs

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/142224/Knob-Five-Star-With-Through-Hole-51618-Insert.aspx


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

Danny870 said:


> Ok, so with regards to your answer #2 and #3, how do I determine the radius and how do I know where to place it?
> 
> I will admit, I kind of have anxiety about asking some of these questions as I do not want you guys to think that I am an idiot! I am a decent cabinet builder, but, I am not a carpenter or even that skilled of a wood worker. I am trying to soak in as much knowledge as is humanly possible, and am extremely grateful for the help and advice that this forum has provided.


 


Why go through all of that trouble (and time) when you can just buy a regular panel cutting bit for your router and do them 'normally' (like one would with a shaper but cept' with a router)???

Guessing you DO have a router that can use 1/2" shank bits?

Freud most likely sells exactly what you need for a reasonable amount and you will save a metric pile of work by NOT having to make a special jig just to be able turn the router on its side and then to use a special bit. 

Example:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/828802/Freud-Lg-Rsd-Panel-BC-Bevel.aspx?gclid=CMG0qpX_r8sCFQuPaQody9QDkg

With the right cutout for the bit in the fence - Even a blade like that can be used for incremental cuts without ever having to alter the blade height once it is 'set'. You would simply move the entire fence over a little each time as you wanted to take more off (deeper cut).


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Why go through all of that trouble (and time) when you can just buy a regular panel cutting bit for your router and do them 'normally' (like one would with a shaper but cept' with a router)???
> 
> Guessing you DO have a router that can use 1/2" shank bits?
> 
> ...



While that is definitely an option, I just like the fun and experience in building new things. I will try my hand at building this horizontal router table, and if it doesn't work out, that is ok. i need to build a traditional router table as well. Planning to order the Router Raizer and an insert plate soon too. Might do that one first. 

It would be nice if I could throw together a traditional router table for my DW625 that is super simple, having the router set on a perminate depth of cut that I could just leave setup to serve as a dedicated panel raising table. However, I don't think it would work out quit as you describe. I would not feel comfortable taking all the material off the boards in only one pass. I need to have the ability to adjust the bit height and do two or more passes. Also, on a traditional router table or shaper table, the height of the bit (or cutter) determines the thickness of the outer perimeter of the panel. So I would absolutely have to bit height adjustment..


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the options .....*

Build the horizontal router table. It will take about an hour or so. It will last a life time and if you need it, you'll have it. The horizontal table will allow you to use "vertical panel raiser" bits in your router, which are somewhat cheaper to purchase.

Build the vertical table also. You CAN leave the large diameter bit at full height IF you pivot the fence in the same manner as the horizontal table. A router fence need NOT move parallel to the table edge, but can pivot on a single bolt at one end. By having a single pivot, you can incrementally feed the work into the cutter by exposing more cutter as you make additional passes. The issue as discussed many posts above, is the larger the cutter, the more HP you will need and the slower the speed you need for it to operate. 

The larger panel raiser cutters are almost always used with a 3 HP or larger router, but I know of cases where a 2 HP has been used. You can use a "variable speed" router control unit which is a stand alone item from Harbor Freight or other sources. I have several of them, they work fine. I use them to slow a 1/2" drill to drill 1" holes in steel plate. 

This article will add more information in your case:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/routing/vertical-raised-panel-bits/

Quoting:
_The pros and cons of vertical raised-panel bits __Because vertical bits don't exceed 1-1/2" in diameter, you can run them at full speed (about 24,000 rpm). So, most single-speed routers with at least 1-1/2 hp will handle them._


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

Danny870 said:


> It would be nice if I could throw together a traditional router table for my DW625 that is super simple, having the router set on a perminate depth of cut that I could just leave setup to serve as a dedicated panel raising table. *However, I don't think it would work out quit as you describe. *I would not feel comfortable taking all the material off the boards in only one pass. I need to have the ability to adjust the bit height and do two or more passes. *Also, on a traditional router table or shaper table, the height of the bit (or cutter) determines the thickness of the outer perimeter of the panel.* So I would absolutely have to bit height adjustment..


It would work exactly as I described above. 





Or if you just HAD to be moving the bit up and down you could simply remove the back cutter from the bit and then adjust that way instead of with the fence. The back cutters like shown in the picture I linked to above are not only removable but they can be adjusted for the edge thickness you want with the proper shims. 



Using a blade 'with' a back cutter that is set where you want it (like the one in the link I posted above) - Material thickness is not so critical as any 'extra' is just going to stick out the back of the door and not really be noticed. The outside edge thickness of your panels is going to be exactly the same each and every time... (and can be adjusted easily for doing thicker doors and panels or fine tuning a particular 'fit' if you ever 'need' to do so)


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