# Design Student Bent Plywood Lounge Chair Project



## jpanichella

Hey guys,

I'm brand new here, so a little about myself. My name is Jon, I'm 22, and I study product design at the University of Cincinnati.

Our junior year project is to design and build a chair in 10 weeks. Due to the tight time frame and some prior experience, I chose to do a chair using bent wood.

I decided I wanted to do a lounge chair, instead of a more upright formal or dining chair, and after a lot of sketching and some paper models, I have a fairly good direction that I'm happy with.

Here's a computer render of the basic idea.










The chair has 3 plywood laminations, the one at the top that forms the seat and back, one that goes from the front legs to the back legs, and one that goes from the back legs to the top of the seat.

I have access to a lot of great resources at my score, including a vacuum bag and some great urea formaldehyde glue. I'm hoping that the way that the chair "delaminates" and laminates again produces a back that has some flex or springiness to it.

In order for it not to waste a bunch of material I want to do something like this:










The render shows no joinery, but I was thinking a lap joint for those rails and stiles, something with a lot of glue area. The seat and back won't be nearly as much of a waste of material, so I'll laminate it as a big sheet and cut out the voids.

Each lamination will be 4 sheets of birch plywood at an 1/8 inch per sheet. Meaning each of the 3 laminations will be 1/2" thick, and where they meet it will be a full inch.

For anthropometry and ergonomics, I'm using this model as a guide.










Right now I have a few questions which are making me hesitant to move forward. Since I only have 10 weeks, that means I have one shot at getting the proportions and ergonomics right, because I simply won't have enough time to make a bunch of new molds.

How much flex should I expect from the back with a setup like this? I'm trying to determine a back angle, and would hate for it to flex so much that the chair becomes uncomfortable.

Do you think the chair will want to delaminate completely? I was thinking of adding some sort of additional fastening where the different parts meet.

I'm just looking for general guidance, I have a bit of wood working experience, but nothing quite like this.

Thanks again for all your help!


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## Brink

Welcome to the forum.

Look at this thread,

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/wife-wants-chair-24475/

Folks put in a lot of info.


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## GeorgeC

If you do a good job of making the laminations I do not think that the amount of flex will be a problem. How many layers will be in each lamination?

Again, if you do a good build the delamination should not be a problem. I do not think that mechanical fasteners would add anything.

It will be an interesting project. Will be looking forward to final pictures.

George


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## woodmeistro

looks like a great project, I am sorry I don't have any great knowledge to pass on to you that will help, but the diagram you have with the angles and ergonomics is awsome. I am planning to build a couch and made a few moch ups because I was unable to find any info about design, would you be willing to send a pdf of this diagram to me. like you I want to get it right the first time


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## woodnthings

*seating...*

http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...&fr=ytff1-tyc7&va=anthropometric+measurements
One thing you will realize if you've studied anthropometrics is that all humans are different...slightly but different. So a chair becomes an "average" of comfort, like the bell shaped curve, some at both ends won't fit. When I was in the Human Factors Lab at General Motors Design in the '70s we measured everyone we could get to sit in the machine. We used that data to improve the comfort of GM seats which were infamously bad. So, You can stretch the dimensions here and there a touch without affecting comfort if it suits the design. You just want to make certain there is a "butt" pocket and you don't slide forward, especially if the surface is slippery like plywood. Seat cushions/padding are the interface between the body and structure in most chairs. A chair without one is a challenge for sure.

I can't offer any advice on the lamination process, but your design will not "flex" much being triangulated like you show. 
I wouldn't worry about that much. Keep us posted.  bill
check these out: http://www.design-technology.org/alvar1.htm


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## woodmeistro

Woodthings, thanks, that link has some really good info. This is why I like this forum, there are some many with so much diversity in their backgrounds and have alot to offer.


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## jpanichella

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the replies!

I decided to build a full scale mock-up, but have an adjustable seat height, seat angle, and back angle. I want to be able to sort of "tune" the seating position to my liking, so I have a better chance of it being comfortable when I go for the final forms. I'll keep posting progress and look forward to hearing any more comments or suggestions!

-Jon


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## woodnthings

*Industrial Design schools have a chair test mock up*

Is this a "chair building class" or are you the only one building a chair? A crude mock up may serve you well. Two piano hinges, slotted plywood sides, a hinged seat and back to allow for all the adjustments. Use plastic knobs like this for quick adjustments:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Search2/Search.aspx?query=jig%20knobs the slot should be on the radius of the hinges so they pivot.
To fasten the bolt drill a hole in a hardwood block, slot it, and then use smaller bolts to clamp the block closed around the bolt or threaded rod. You'll' only need 6 of these. Or you could just use threaded rod that runs allthe way across with a block that's the width so tighten them against. 

I wouldn't spend a great deal of time on this, a day or so. If you use flat ply for the seat and back it may be a little misleading when you get to making the curved one. The radius for your knee joints and the butt pocket are critical for you design and your dimesions are really where the tangents off the curves intersect. You can fill in the butt pocket with foam carved to your curve. 

Actually a 4 or 5 piece profile of the chair in side view will be more usefull since you can cut the curves as the final form would be. T Then hold them together on threaded rods spaced equally apart. You'll burn up some plywood or MDF this way but it can be scraps or seconds. Look at the Home Depot etc. for damaged plywood which they will discount. This same method can be use as a form for your final lamination. :thumbsup: bill


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## cabinetman

You might start with a full scale (1:1) drawing of the side view, or other views you might need. You can use the brown or white wrapping paper that comes on a roll. You can get it at any office supply, or the stationery section of drug stores.

With a full size drawing, and all the parts delineated, you can see the parts, and have a pattern to fit them when the time comes. The pattern can also be an aid to make the forms for bending.

You may find that 1/8" ply may not bend as easy as it needs to be. 












 







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## woodnthings

*This may be useful*

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2617 You have to view it as PDF file :blink: bill


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## jpanichella

Good info guys!

The chair class is a 4th year industrial design studio, so everybody has to make a chair. It's usually heck of a challenge, and a lot of people get the construction of their chairs outsourced (they're not as into the prototyping side of things as I am, I like working with my hands). Right now the mock up I designed on the computer will allow the seat height, seat angle, and back angle to be adjusted. So I can set the seat height anywhere from 15 to 18 inches (in increments of 1 inch), the seat angle anywhere from 0 to 15 degrees (in increments of 5 degrees), and back angle anywhere from verticle to 30 degrees tilt (again, in increments of 5 degrees).

It's going to be more of a learning tool for the entire class, because most of them are still in the sketching/idea phase, not yet into the proportions and measurements phase. Consider it more of an educational tool that I'm creating because I'm a little bit further along right now.

A full scale mockup will be the next step after this mockup. And after that it's time to start making molds for the plywood :smile:


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## woodnthings

jpanichella said:


> Good info guys!
> 
> The chair class is a 4th year industrial design studio, so everybody has to make a chair. *It's usually heck of a challenge, and a lot of people get the construction of their chairs outsourced (they're not as into the prototyping side of things as I am, I like working with my hands)*. Right now the mock up I designed on the computer will allow the seat height, seat angle, and back angle to be adjusted. So I can set the seat height anywhere from 15 to 18 inches (in increments of 1 inch), the seat angle anywhere from 0 to 15 degrees (in increments of 5 degrees), and back angle anywhere from verticle to 30 degrees tilt (again, in increments of 5 degrees).
> 
> It's going to be more of a learning tool for the entire class, because most of them are still in the sketching/idea phase, not yet into the proportions and measurements phase. Consider it more of an educational tool that I'm creating because I'm a little bit further along right now.
> 
> A full scale mockup will be the next step after this mockup. And after that it's time to start making molds for the plywood :smile:


That would have got you a failing grade in the classes I was in and in the Materials and Processes class I taught, fifty years ago. I suppose these days it's no big deal and the Design Studios I worked in at GM were Union shops and we weren't allowed to make much of anything. If you could draw it up or or explain it to someone, that was the rule.
Just wondering if everyone in the class is required to use a laminated type construction method? It may get costly to outsource that work. $$$$ :huh: 
There's more than one way to skin this cat. As I mentioned earlier, the laminations could be vertical sections rather than horizontal. Like plywood stood on edge. This allows another advantage in that a "sculpted" form can be done in all the surfaces after it's laminated...more 3D, and possibly more comfortable. More free advice.  bill


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## cabinetman

jpanichella said:


> The chair class is a 4th year industrial design studio, so everybody has to make a chair. It's usually heck of a challenge, and a lot of people get the construction of their chairs outsourced (they're not as into the prototyping side of things as I am, I like working with my hands).


Is it everyone has to make a chair (or is it to get one made)?



jpanichella said:


> It's going to be more of a learning tool for the entire class, because most of them are still in the sketching/idea phase, not yet into the proportions and measurements phase. Consider it more of an educational tool that I'm creating because I'm a little bit further along right now.


Sounds like there is a diversity in the criteria for the class. If it's in the idea and sketching to develop a prototype, why aren't the parameters the same for the class as a whole? IOW, do you get the same credit either way, or are you going to provide the sketchwork like the whole class, and a full size chair is done just for the fun of it?












 







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## jpanichella

cabinetman said:


> Is it everyone has to make a chair (or is it to get one made)?
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like there is a diversity in the criteria for the class. If it's in the idea and sketching to develop a prototype, why aren't the parameters the same for the class as a whole? IOW, do you get the same credit either way, or are you going to provide the sketchwork like the whole class, and a full size chair is done just for the fun of it?


 
For the final critique we just need to have a prototype of the chair. It doesn't matter whether or not they made the chair themselves or got the chair made. 

It's ultimately a design class, not a materials and processes or building class. And the criteria of "chair" is pretty loose, anything you can sit on is being considered a chair, so a lot of it is large freeform sculptures and stuff like that. I'm making this rig for somebody who is doing a more traditional approach to what a chair is.


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## jpanichella

So here's the rig I made to test various seat heights, seat angles, and back angles. Works pretty well!

My friend steve also made himself a little steam bending rig.


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## woodnthings

*Great job!*

That's exactly what I had in mind when you described it. I do think the arm rests need some padding however! :no: bill


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## jpanichella

Today we had a critique on our mockups. So I had a chance to have a range of people sitting in my proposed seating position. They all found it quite comfortable!

From the shortest girl:










To the tallest guy:


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## cellophane

That's pretty cool. I like your jig!

The furniture class was the one studio I really wish I could have taken while in school (Architecture at UK) but never managed to fit in.


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## jpanichella

Thanks for the kind words! Several people have been using it to tune their design, so I'd say it was a success.


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## jpanichella

Here are some untouched renders of the final-ish proportions. Ignore the seam in the seat and back (will be photoshopped out)

The seat is a touch over 16 inches in the front, with a generous 3 inch radius in the front. The seat angle is 10 degrees, and the back angle is 25 degrees from vertical. The angle between the seat and the back is 105 degrees. The seat is about 17.5" deep, and a generous 22 inches wide.



















Next step is to make a cardboard mockup for a final proportion check, and onto the prototype!


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## jpanichella

Hey guys, I'm in the process of designing my molds and am debating about the number of laminations I chose. I have 4, 1/8" Baltic Birch sheets I was going to laminate, but I realize that the grain would be going the opposite direction if I did an even number. Should I do 5 or 3?


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## woodnthings

If you have to use 1/8" I'd go with 3, since 5 would be too heavy and look "thick" . The design of the chair as posted should triangulate for strength, so 3/8" should be OK...but then, what do I know? :wallbash: We were taught make it minimal, then start removing elements/thickness until it fails, then add that element back in. You won't know until you try.....  bill 
BTW Since your design calls for overlapping or double thicknesses where the laminations intersect, the total thickness would be roughly 3/4". That's going to be very strong. It's just the seat and back where the thinner sections are and those are distributed loads rather than concentrated. I see a certain amount of flex happening, but I could be wrong...again.
I'd make up a sample of the end detail and test it out.


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## cabinetman

jpanichella said:


> Hey guys, I'm in the process of designing my molds and am debating about the number of laminations I chose. I have 4, 1/8" Baltic Birch sheets I was going to laminate, but I realize that the grain would be going the opposite direction if I did an even number. Should I do 5 or 3?


The BB may not respond favorably to laminating in the orientation you are planning. I'm thinking that if its 2mm-3mm BB, I would go with 5, as you would want the structural integrity that the plies in thickness would offer. Even with 5, that's only 5/8", which is less than I laminate solid wood for minimal mouldings. I would experiment with a sample lamination first.











 







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## jpanichella

I ended up submitting my molds for cutting (we have a CNC big enough to do 4x8' sheets at my school). I designed my molds for 5 laminations, but if I wanted to I could add 2 extra pieces of birch to the mold to take up the gap if I decided to do 3 ply instead of 5. I have a dimension drawing I can post if anybody wanted to see the final proportions. I also have a drawing of the molds.

I'm thinking about finishing now. I'm not particularly set on staining, and I don't like the feel of polyurethane. I like oil finishes, and have used Danish and Tung oil before. They also have a selection of formby danish oils with some pigment in them at my local wood supplier. Any word on using danish oil on birch?

Thanks again guys!


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## cabinetman

jpanichella said:


> I'm thinking about finishing now. I'm not particularly set on staining, and I don't like the feel of polyurethane. I like oil finishes, and have used Danish and Tung oil before. They also have a selection of formby danish oils with some pigment in them at my local wood supplier. Any word on using danish oil on birch?
> 
> Thanks again guys!


The packaged "Danish Oil", or commonly called Danish Oil Finish, is actually a mix of an oil base varnish (or oil base polyurethane), boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. It's a good finish and works as a stand alone finish, i.e., needing no topcoat.












 







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## jpanichella

cabinetman said:


> The packaged "Danish Oil", or commonly called Danish Oil Finish, is actually a mix of an oil base varnish (or oil base polyurethane), boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. It's a good finish and works as a stand alone finish, i.e., needing no topcoat.
> 
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That's what I've been reading. I've also been reading up on Minwax Antique Oil finish. I assume they're similar to apply, but the Minwax is apparently a harder finish. Has anybody applied this finish over birch?


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## cabinetman

jpanichella said:


> That's what I've been reading. I've also been reading up on Minwax Antique Oil finish. I assume they're similar to apply, but the Minwax is apparently a harder finish. Has anybody applied this finish over birch?


Yes I have. Harder than what? Most all of the mixes have good durability. You would have to know what the oil ratio is to estimate hardness. A straight wiping version of an oil base polyurethane would be a harder finish than a mix. A wiping version is nothing more than the media being thinned to wipe. There are trade offs. A straight wiping version may not flow as well, or may be more brittle than a mix.












 







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## jpanichella

Updates!

Got my molds back from the CNC machine. They now need to be put together and I can start bending.

I'll upload some new pictures soon. I also have a video of the CNC machine cutting them, but you can't see much through the dust shield.


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## jpanichella




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## jpanichella

I got the large mold assembled yesterday, the one for the seat and back. I'll upload more pictures soon. Are CNC routers cheating on this forum? It cost me about 70 bucks to cut all those pieces, so in terms of my time I'd say it's worth it!


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## jpanichella

Molds are done! Took a good weekend of solid work, but they're ready to start making some parts. The big mold is for the seat and front leg. That piece is going to be soaked overnight, pre-bent, then vacuum bagged. The other pieces are going to be clamped in the rounded square holes.


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## woodnthings

*Production is not far away*

You are all tooled up for a production run...very nice work! :thumbsup: bill


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## jpanichella

Thanks for the kind words!

I went out tonight to buy some ratcheting straps to get that pesky birch to hug the mold better after the soak. It looks like they're going to do the trick. I have an appointment with the vacuum bag on Friday, so my big mold should be all set by Saturday.


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## Kenbo

I've been sitting on the fence on this one, wondering how it was going to turn out and I have to say that this is pretty freaking awesome. Very interesting to say the least. I'm really looking forward to the continuation of this project. It's really coming along.


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## jpanichella

Hahaha well I'm glad I managed to push you over the fence a bit. I'm not going to lie, there have certainly been a few freakouts and a few "what the hell was I thinking" moments during the course of this project. But after getting the birch to bend to my will after a bit of soaking, I'm feeling confident that I can get this all to work. It's not going to be easy though. I've already lost a few pieces of birch. The due date is 3 weeks from today, so expect this thread to stay pretty up to date.


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## jpanichella

A little pre-bending. The mold is covered in saran wrap to keep it from getting too wet. I soaked the pieces in hot water for an hour or so, and wrapped it over the form using clamps and ratcheting straps. I'm going to let it do it's thing for a few days before laminating it and using the vacuum bag.


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## jpanichella

Got on the table saw and cut all my pieces out, with alternating grain. Put it in my mold and it fits like a glove!


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## woodnthings

*Great job*

Very thoughtful approach to this project. :thumbsup: keep up with the pictures and the play by play.  bill


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## Kenbo

Still looking great. Looks like the plywood is experiencing a little seperation on your test bend, or is that a trick of the picture? Either way, fantastic thread and a great build


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## jpanichella

There's a little separation, without a top mold it's hard to get things flat in the prebend. When I vacuum bag it there won't be any separation, though. The radius isn't nearly as tight as I want, but the bag will take care of that (I hope). I'm hoping to take video of that when it happens.


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## sanchez

This is a really interesting thread. It must be nice to have that school shop at your disposal!


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## jpanichella

Tested in the bag today. It almost worked, the tight radius actually wrapped just fine, but the radius deeper in the mold for where your but goes didn't quite make it without a lot of force. I had to make a male mold for that radius, which is drying as we speak. Hopefully the real glue-up will happen tomorrow. After I get this lamination done, hopefully things will go a bit easier...hopefully.


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## jpanichella

Small victory! Getting the boards with the grain running longways was giving me trouble (they wanted to snap at the apex of the radius), so 15 minutes in the steam-tube that I posted earlier fixed that right up. I'll let it hang out there overnight, and tomorrow is going to be the day to lay down some urea formaldehyde glue. We bought a scale today so we can mix it accurately by weight instead of by volume.


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## woodnthings

*nice progress!*

I'm sure you know by now, but others may not, that most of the work in making a laminated ply chair is in the forming/mold making rather than the finished piece. Not to say that won't be considerable, but the number of hours spent getting the forms complete is much less than the actual glue up and sanding/finishing. The CNC machine saved a ton of time also. The advantage is...... now you can make as many as you want. :yes: bill


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## Kenbo

This is still an awesome thread for sure. Really enjoying it. Thanks for posting the latest update


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## jpanichella

Thanks again for the kind words! I appreciate all the encouragement. This is my first time doing most of these things, so there have been ups and downs so far. I hope to get back in the vac-bag tomorrow and test my new mold piece for holding down that pesky radius. When it comes to assembly and joinery, I'm going to be seeking a lot of advice from you guys!


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## aaronhl

Can't wait to see it!


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## jpanichella

Major victory today!

I had to build a plug to get one radius to do it's thing. We did a dry run to see how things worked out, and without clamping it the piece would simply not go down. So we decided to clamp it, then ratchet strapped it in place. We covered the metal ratchets with pieces of pool noodle. After the dry run worked fine we mixed up some urea formaldehyde glue, rolled it on with big paint rollers, and, wrapped it in wax paper, and threw it in the bag.


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## jpanichella

Popped my piece out of the vac bag this morning, gave the glue near 24 hours to cure. Looks awesome! Minimal springback and the form looks spot on.

Checking it against my scale drawing



















Placing it on my mold.


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## mdntrdr

*Definitely minimal spring back!*

Great job! :thumbsup:


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## jpanichella

Thanks!

As you can see from the scale drawing, I gave myself a few inches at both the top and the bottom. I would love to start squaring these sides up, I gave myself an extra half inch from side to side (in case something went really wrong with the lamination). What would be a good way of trimming these sides square and getting them to the appropriate width?


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## mdntrdr

jpanichella said:


> What would be a good way of trimming these sides square and getting them to the appropriate width?


 
If the sides are square now, you could use a marking guage to get a line.

Handsaw close to the line, and finish up with a block sander.

If you don't have atleast 1 sq. side to start with... that's a head scratcher for me, proly have to come off center line and square/plumb down. :huh:


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## Kenbo

Holy crap man, you did it!!!! Congratulations. This is indeed a great victory for this project. Can't wait to see the rest of this when it isn't a "test" run. Great job.


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## firemedic

That's an A in my book! Great job!!!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## jpanichella

I made 3 of the four leg laminations that I need to finish my chair. They all look pretty good, with a negligible amount of springback, and enough flex so they will fit my original design intention. I'll snap some more pictures tomorrow or Friday. Now I have to convince myself to start cutting into all these pieces.


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## sanchez

Thanks for the update. This is really cool!


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## jpanichella

So, I've been sanding a lot for the past 2 days. The Festool sanders are absolutely amazing, though. I clamped the pieces back in my mold, and made some aligning blocks to keep the molds aligned vertically, and clamped the piece in so it didn't move while I sanded. The results are pretty nice! Time to start on that big lamination.


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## aaronhl

Everyone's chairs were terrible compared to this one...Keep posting pictures, you're doing a great job!


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## jpanichella

A lot of work has been done that I still need to photograph, but the chair lamination trimmed and sanded to it's final dimension, I've laminated some flat pieces for the braces across the ground, and I'm about to do some cutouts. Critique is next Tuesday, so I have to get my ass in gear.


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## woodnthings

*One of my concerns*

has always been the joining of the various laminations at their intersections. Scarf joints would seem in order there, and that raises a strength issue where the joint is not structural/mechanical, but only relys on the glue for the bond. What did you have in mind for the intersections?  bill
Good Luck on Final Presentation!
Really nice work so far. I remember very well critiques and Final Presentations. Had one in my living room once, since I worked at home on the project...a full scale bandsaw mock up with the paint barely dry enough to hide it under a sheet for the Design Faculty. Surprise! :laughing:


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## jpanichella

Things are getting mocked up! I'm really happy with it so far. A few words of advice from anybody who is using this method of construction. The birch likes to tear out a lot when you crosscut it, but scoring the cut line with a sharp utility knife greatly reduces this.

Urea Formaldehyde glue is toxic, nasty stuff, but it works great. The brand I used was called Weldwood, and when mixed up it looks like brownie batter, but dries very hard.


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## thegrgyle

*Holy c&@$ that looks phenominal*

I remember when you posted your first ideas on here, and have been away for awhile with a busy summer.

Your project looks incredible! Very nice job and keeping us all up to date with the progress on the job.

Fabian


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## Brink

It has been enjoyable watching this thread start with an idea, and working its way toward completion. Looks like you'll beat the 10 week deadline.

You've done a fine job on this.


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## firemedic

Brink said:


> It has been enjoyable watching this thread start with an idea, and working its way toward completion. Looks like you'll beat the 10 week deadline.
> 
> You've done a fine job on this.


+1

When this thread started I didn't get involved because I honestly didn't think we'd get to see it through... Man was I wrong. You really did a great job, man! Very impressive!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## jpanichella

Thanks for the kind words guys! I almost wish I could do another one, I'm sure I could do a better job the second time around. I think I finally have the zen of working with the birch plywood. There's still quite a bit of work to do, but I'm confident that it will be glued up on Friday, and finished on Saturday. I'll keep the pictures coming!


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## jpanichella

Here's photos of the final mockup before glue. Right now the glue is setting, I'll start sanding tomorrow night. It's due on Tuesday.....long few days ahead of me.

I got a chance to sit on it with just the few clamps pictured supporting it, and it felt great. I think I got the ergonomics pretty down, and it has a nice bit of flex in the back, but not enough to feel like it's going to break. For a first prototype I'm very happy with it.


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## aaronhl

I'm really impressed, keep us updated!


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## nblumert

The chair looks fantastic. Please keep us posted with all the good work.
Nick


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## wolfmanyoda

Looks great, nice and comfy.

My wife walked by as I was looking at it and she said "It'd be better as a bench for two." So you better get cracking! :laughing:


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## jpanichella

I've already vowed to never make another one of these damned things....

I could get you some plans though!


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## woodnthings

*Never again?*

I'm just wondering how it would look/work with the rear horizontal bar removed and just have the individual legs. Maybe the front as well. I think it would "lighten" the whole design up a bit. I don't know about lateral rigidity however. It's one of those cases where you have remove all the "unnecessary" elements and then find which ones were indeed structurally necessary. Nice work and I applaud your determination and thoughtful approach to the project. "A" for the project from this retired design instructor, University of Illinois, Dept of Fine Art, 1969.
:thumbsup: bill
BTW does the cut out in the seat make it more or less comfortable? It would seem that in certain "cases" a well rounded derriere may protrude beyond the limits of the plywood and be embarassingly obvious.... but not to the person who is seated... a "pinch" point more or less. It may attract unwanted attention. Just askin' A picture of someone seated in it would tell the story. I'm thinkin' a girl myself. :laughing:


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## jpanichella

woodnthings said:


> I'm just wondering how it would look/work with the rear horizontal bar removed and just have the individual legs. Maybe the front asa well. I think it would "lighten" the whole design up a bit. I don't know about lateral rigidity however. It's one of those cases where you have remove all the "unnecessary" elements and then find which ones were indeed structurally necessary. Nice work and I applaud your determination and thoughtful approach to the project. "A" for the project from this retired design instructor, University of Illinois, DEpt of Fine Art, 1969.
> :thumbsup: bill
> BTW does the cut out in the seat make it more or less comfortable? It would seem that in certain "cases" a well rounded derriere may protrude beyond the limits of the plywood and be embarassingly obvious.... but not to the person who is seated... a "pinch" point more or less. It may attract unwanted attention. Just askin' A picture of someone seated in it would tell the story. I'm thinkin' a girl myself. :laughing:


Thanks again!

Actually, a lot of time was spent getting the proportions of that cutout so it doesn't sacrifice comfort. I was originally going to avoid the cutout for times sake, but the chair felt so top heavy that it was absolutely aesthetically necessary. 

I'm still sanding, but will have pictures of the finished chair, as well as some critique pictures up soon.


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## jpanichella

Here's a beauty shot taken for tomorrow's crit. I didn't have a chance to finish it, I spoke with my professor and he prefers that instead of trying to rush a finish, I should do it after the crit.


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## mdntrdr

*Great job!*

What type of finish are you planning? :smile:


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## Seth

jpanichella said:


> Here's a beauty shot taken for tomorrow's crit. I didn't have a chance to finish it, I spoke with my professor and he prefers that instead of trying to rush a finish, I should do it after the crit.


That looks incredible. Great job!

-Seth


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## woodnthings

mdntrdr said:


> What type of finish are you planning? :smile:


a photo finish? :blink: bill


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## jpanichella

I was originally planning on doing a coat of Zinsser SealCoat, just to keep things protected and give me the option of a different finish in the future. What do you guys like for baltic birch ply?


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## jpanichella

My crit was today and it went extremely well. In fact, my chair was one of three chosen to be purchased by the school as gifts to people who donate money to our program. I'm not willing to let it go unless the price is right, though.


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## mdntrdr

*Excellent!*



jpanichella said:


> My crit was today and it went extremely well. In fact, my chair was one of three chosen to be purchased by the school as gifts to people who donate money to our program. I'm not willing to let it go unless the price is right, though.


 
What you reckon it's worth? :smile:


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## Bwest

mdntrdr said:


> What you reckon it's worth? :smile:


After seeing the work he has put into it, I would not go under $5000. It is just too cool of a chair.


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## jpanichella

I have over 500 into it....

I'm in the thousands at this point. Otherwise the sentimental value is just not worth it.


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## Bwest

I actually made the mistake of missing a 0.. $5,000. Honestly it looks worth it.


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## jpanichella

5,000 sounds nice!


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## Bwest

A hand made, sleek and stylish chair like this I think it would be worth that to the right person. Do you plan on finishing this or leaving it the way it was for the critique?


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## jpanichella

I'll finish it. I have another crit tomorrow I'm preparing for, but after that I have a bit of time to finish it.


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## Bwest

ok, good luck on the crit. Ill be anxious to see it finished.


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## Kenbo

That is an absolutely gorgeous chair. You must have a real sense of accomplishment after all of the time and effort you have put into this. This is definitely a piece to be proud of. A huge pat on the back from me. Very impressive.


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## martianx

*like it, love it*

I'm not even a woodworker but a jewelry designer and I followed this post from the beginning and have been entranced by both the pictures and the comments. I think this is an insanely beautiful piece of furniture and being taken through the process was completely enjoyable. Great job!!!


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## jpanichella

You guys are really too kind!

Furniture design is my passion, and I hope to pursuit it professionally after I graduate. This is my first real piece of furniture, from design to construction. I've worked with others on furniture design before, but nothing this extensive. I could easily see doing this for the rest of my life.


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## frankp

woodnthings said:


> I'm just wondering how it would look/work with the rear horizontal bar removed and just have the individual legs. Maybe the front as well. I think it would "lighten" the whole design up a bit. I don't know about lateral rigidity however. It's one of those cases where you have remove all the "unnecessary" elements and then find which ones were indeed structurally necessary. Nice work and I applaud your determination and thoughtful approach to the project. "A" for the project from this retired design instructor, University of Illinois, Dept of Fine Art, 1969.
> :thumbsup: bill
> BTW does the cut out in the seat make it more or less comfortable? It would seem that in certain "cases" a well rounded derriere may protrude beyond the limits of the plywood and be embarassingly obvious.... but not to the person who is seated... a "pinch" point more or less. It may attract unwanted attention. Just askin' A picture of someone seated in it would tell the story. I'm thinkin' a girl myself. :laughing:


Bill, I think if you replaced the rear horizontal with an arch it might give you that "light" feeling while still retaining the lateral rigidity. It might not quite flow with the rest of the lines, though, so I'm not sure I'd like it. 

As for the "pinch" I think you'd almost have to sit uncomfortably far back for that effect, though with a large enough hiney, that might not be the case.

Overall I'll agree with your grade for the project. "A" from me too! Nice design and splendid execution. I'm even inclined to say leave it unfinished, personally.


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## Shop Dad

*Well done*



jpanichella said:


> You guys are really too kind!
> 
> Furniture design is my passion, and I hope to pursuit it professionally after I graduate. This is my first real piece of furniture, from design to construction. I've worked with others on furniture design before, but nothing this extensive. I could easily see doing this for the rest of my life.


I hope you do. As others have said, it has been a pleasure seeing this project from your first conceptual design through execution. This is an excellent design that I would love to see produced in volume. Keep up the good work and keep having fun. :smile:


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## jpanichella

Since I have a few days before the school closes, I've been sanding and sealing the chair. I'm just using Zinsser SealCoat (Wax free Shellac) and it's pretty darn easy to use. I sanded the whole thing to 220, then applied 2 coats of the Sealcoat. Now I'm going back through with 320. After that I'll do another few coats and a rub down with Scotchbrite.


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## nblumert

Sounds like your almost done. Dont forget the pictures.


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## GearWorksguy

Very attractive design....!


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## jpanichella

Well, it's finished for now.

The sealcoat is a great product. Goes on easy, dries fast, seems durable enough for indoor use, and isn't too expensive. The finish turned out very smooth. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to take any pictures, I had to finish it in a hurry and get out of the school studios before they shut them down between quarters, but at the beginning of next quarter I will take it into the photography studio for some studio shots. When I get those done I'll bump this thread up to the top.

Thanks for all the kind words and thanks for reading!


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## Chaincarver Steve

There's been quite a process involved in making this chair. I've enjoyed watching it come together. Excellent work. I can't wait to see the finished chair.


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## jpanichella

Hey guys. Somebody posted the our chair critique up on Flickr and I thought I'd share our classes work with you.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157627782281732/with/6195900416/


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## Kenbo

There are some very nice pieces there for sure. A big congratulations to everyone for their accomplishments. Thanks for sharing the the link.


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## snav

I love it - looks comfortable, it's all well contained and sleek so it's inviting. I like the boltless, nibless assembly so the lines of the piece and grain aren't altered in any way. . .and I love that's it's made of birch.

Fabulous work.


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## jpanichella

Shameless plug of my own design!


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## Kenbo

Your chair is an awesome piece of work and one of the best pieces in the link that your shared. Maybe I'm biased, but I think your chair is fantastic. Plug away, you should be proud of this one, I would be.


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## Chancewoodchuck

Killer jig! And steaming apparatous...


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## Vikas Kumar

Fantastic, one of the unique concept & eye catching design. Thanks for this post


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