# Making drill press table, handle is an obstacle



## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I want to make picture frames, which means I need to make a table saw sled, which means I need to make a drill press table....etc. I'm sure you know how it goes. 

Anyway, I'm moving towards the drill press table (I *love* google sketchup), but no plans that I've seen address the location of the raising/lowing handle and how to keep from having that interfere. 

I've just got a simple 12" Tradesman drill press (with a laser! :thumbsup. I had planned on just mounting my table directly to the cast iron table that came with the drill. Surprisingly, I actually noticed this little problem *before* I did that.

As you can see, the handle comes pretty far forward of the post. Most drill press tables I've seen come all the way back to the post, so that's quite a bit of room lost.










It also is pretty high above.










I could create a table that is completely forward of the handle...but not only will I lose quite a bit of space, I also forsee great difficulty reaching over the table to try and turn the crank...and probably more than a few scraped knuckles.

I think the best choice for using the crank would be to have the table *below* it...that way it is always easily accessible. But that would mean removing the existing table and mounting directly to the post/crank mechanism. I guess if I remove these 2 bolts, there would be something there to attach to...I guess I just fear for the strength of something home-built attached to that and supporting my drill press table weight.










So the other option would be to build the table on the existing cast iron platform, but raised up enough so that the handle is accessible underneath. That may be as much as 4-6" high. A little ungainly, but seems like it may be the best option.

I can't believe I'm the first to have ever had the handle be in the way of building a drill press table...but I cant find any pics or plans on the internet that take it into account.

Suggestions? Thanks!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you're not the first*

To have this problem. Check this out: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/benchtop-press-problem-15223/#post118980
Maybe there's an answer for you? :thumbsup: bill


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I only use a single handle on my DP, gives me plenty of depth for most operations. :yes:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Doh! rookie mistake, posting something that was already posted! I'll just add my woes to that thread and see if me and him can figure out some solutions. Thanks for the link!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Don't feel bad*



beelzerob said:


> Doh! rookie mistake, posting something that was already posted! I'll just add my woes to that thread and see if me and him can figure out some solutions. Thanks for the link!


\

It took me about 5 minutes of searching to find this, knowing that I had made a post myself, and I kinda know the system here. Not a problem, there was even one more thread I found but didn't list "elevation handle" if you look. Welcome to you! :thumbsup: bill


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I misunderstood, :whistling2: I guess I would go with the elevated table.

But I did find the spindle?, chuck depth handles to get in the way.

So I removed all but one.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Heh, no problem. I appreciate all input, even the misunderstood kind!

Ya know...I have a 90 deg power drill attachment I've hardly ever used since our house was built. Wouldnt that be interesting to replace the handle with that and have the actual handle come out the front of the table instead. Hmmmmmm....

Of course, I'd still have to reach around back to lock the table, but that handle doesn't get in the way of anything.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, just for fun I went down with the 90 deg attachment to see, and while it appears that it would just about fit perfect under the table....the chuck is too small to attach to the spindle the handle attaches to. I'm not sure the easiest way to try to adapt it, but if it takes a whole lot, then this project begins to look dangerously like my other projects where it gets so out of hand I find I spend 3x as much trying to DIY it as it would have taken just to buy it outright.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i would elevate the new table over the existing cast one about 2-3 inches, then keep the back edge of the new table forward enough to clear the knuckles. you don't need table back there anyway, you don't have it now, right?


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, as far as actual tables, that's true. But in the current configuration with just a flat surface, I could work on some pretty large pieces of wood (after adjusting the table). Putting on a permanent table with a fence puts a back limit on what I can work on...and then moving it forward of THAT point limits it even more.

At a bare minimum, if I could simply extend the handle out to the right, then that would also solve a problem. The drill table could support the extension. What I would need, though, is some attachment to extend the spindle the handle is on. It's basically a completely round spindle with just one side shaved flat, and that's where the setscrew goes so the handle turns the thing. Does anyone know what that kind of connection is called so I can look around for some kind of extension bar?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Any round pipe that fits good would work.

Just install large set screws to hit the flats.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I thought of that, but I didn't know how to make the threads in that small hole in the pipe to hold the setscrew.

Of course, that's me getting tunnel vision as usual....I can probably just drill a hole, put in a very small bolt with a nut inside instead of threading the hole, right?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Drill and tap for a set screw would get you a much better conection.

Taps can be bought just about anywhere. :yes:

Your way... there would be no way to keep the nut from spinning.

also your contact surface would be minimal.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

You make it sound so simple! I've never tapped before, so of course I fear it.

But if it's that easy, then time to learn! :thumbsup: As long as Lowes carries it I'm set.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Hehe...well, searching for "drill press handle extension tube" brought up this nifty little article and picture. Seems like the general idea I'm working towards. I wish there was just a tad more detail to it, but I'll see how far I can get with it.

First challenge...fine appropriate pipe material!


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Goodness...the well continues to give! 

I guess it's not so rare a phenomenon after all


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## Cincinnati (May 5, 2010)

*Drill Press Mod*

Beelzerob,

Can the handle be replaced with a crank wheel similar to what moves a table on a milling machine. If so, you could cut a clearance opening in the drill press table you are building and let the wheel spin through it. This way, you have access to the top of the wheel above the table.

Another design that I would investigate is fabricating a bracket that ofsets the table lower on the column so you have clearance on the handle and have room to add an extension table.

If you need clarification on my ideas, let me know.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

But even on the crank wheel, isn't there usually a knob on it that you grab, and that would also interfere with the table? Either way, even if somehow the crank or wheel didn't interfere directly with the table, I'm concerned that it would be very ergonomically awkward to reach over the table and try to turn it. I guess you could turn the entire assembly to the side and crank it up then, but then you're trying to turn a crank while facing the crank. Doable, since this doesn't require a lot of arm strength.

I thought about a bracket lowering the overall assembly, since I think sitting above the table is the most accessible method. But manufacturing such a thing is beyond me, and I once again feared that this "little fix" was ballooning into something much more complicated and expensive than was needed.

I'm now leaning very heavily towards implementing "dave's" fix from the 2nd link I posted. I've contacted him via email and he's given me a little more explanation, and I think that if I can find the correct pipe parts, it'll be the easiest and least expensive method (so it'll just extend the crank arm out about 6-8").

Thanks for the suggestions.


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