# Board Straightening Jig for Table Saw



## woodnthings

This is a simple 3 piece jig made from 1/4" x 96" x 7" hardboard an 3/4" x 2 3/4" oak and 3 toggle clamps. It will put a straight edge on a board while holding it safely. This is a ripping operation and a splitter should be used. 
You can see in the last photo the curved off fall on the left of the blade.


----------



## ~WoodChuck~

very nice. I have been wanting to make one like that. I have seen clamps online that are made doing this, but this way is easy enough. Do you have different sizes, for say 12'-16'ers?


----------



## woodnthings

*Not that long*

This one is for 8 footers and shorter, which fits most of my hardwood stock but for longer pieces I would prefer moving a circular saw against a straight edge rather than a long board on the table saw. Only problem is finding a "straight" straight edge that long....😆 bill
BTW those are HF toggle clamps I think they were $5.00 or so.


----------



## Ghidrah

I've done it a few times. I took my 8' straight clamped it to the stock then took 14' of 1-1/2X3/4" pine and clamped it tight to the straight edge. Move the straight edge down enough to maintain straight and continue clamping.

If I'm creating ext. trim for a house I always hand pick "Clear & Better" or "Eastern White Pine" which is much finer than (finish or select pine) -0- knots, straighter grain less cup and crown. When there is a crown if it's severe enough I snap an edge line and either plane it or use my trim saw on it.


----------



## knotscott

Now that's the way you do it! :thumbsup:


----------



## woodnthings

*Thanks Scott!*



knotscott said:


> Now that's the way you do it! 👍


That's the way* I do it now*, after different methods weren't satisfactory or safe. The shoe at the end keeps the board from working it's way toward me, the operator, and the toggles are a quick way to hold and release the work. It took a while for this idea to sink in, but I'm really pleased with it since I work with a lot of milled lumber.


----------



## mics_54

I don't really get the idea of trying to clamp your material with those toggles against the very flexible pressed board.


----------



## woodnthings

*Yah, I thought so too*



mics_54 said:


> I don't really get the idea of trying to clamp your material with those toggles against the very flexible pressed board.


 But when the board is clamped to it it becomes rigid enough to run through the saw. You know jigs are always a work in progress, so I will keep an open mind as to what works and what doesn't. The thin Masonite I used rough side up to provide more "grip", but I may replace it with a 3/8" or 1/2" piece of ply. I wanted to maximize my depth of cut by using the thinnest board possible...I can always go thicker if need be. I also wanted the off fall to drop as little as possible to prevent a bounce back into the blade.

A roll of 60 grit sandpaper, glued down on top would also keep the work from shifting around, but with a sharp blade there really isn't that much force on the work to move it. I just want to be a safe as possible, you know about Murphy's Law....:laughing: bill


----------



## beelzerob

Interesting, I've seen that kind of jig before, but it was made to run in the mitre slot. Yours is made to run against the fence, right? That's a pretty good idea, as it makes it more flexible with width of wood you deal with.


----------



## cabinetman

If very long pieces need to be cut (10' - 18'), I've used two cuts off of a 1/4" sheet of tempered masonite. That'll give you 16' of straight edge. Tack them down on top of the wood with #4 finish nails in tandem. You only need about 3 nails per section, which those ity bity holes can easily be dealt with later.

On long thick boards, and if narrow, rigging up a straight edge to be used with a handheld circular saw can be problematic if you have no room for the shoe of the saw, and the width of the straight edge. 

Besides, 8/4 and thicker might be a bit too much for some saws.


----------



## woodnthings

*Harbor Freight no longer carries*

The 7" toggles....👎 They have this one, a 5".

500 lb. Vertical Toggle Clamp


----------



## splinter2

Woodnthings,
Thanks for sharring, Thats why i belong here, You learn something everyday? Iam building one today.....:thumbsup:


----------



## woodnthings

*You're welcome!*

That why we are here, learning and sharing. :thumbsup: 
Here's another jig in You Tube video. I like mine better, but that's just my biased opinion. :laughing: bill


----------



## Microtus

woodnthings said:


> I also wanted the off fall to drop as little as possible to prevent a bounce back into the blade.



It's safety related and I'm certainly a newbie, the above means what exactly?


----------



## woodnthings

*off fall drop distance*

If you use a thick base say 3/4" rather than 1/4" the piece will fall 3/4" when the cut is completed. It might bounce a little and into the blade but not necessarily, as it falls. This is not fixed in stone, but just a precaution I wanted to try on this jig. Keeping the base thin also allows for a greater depth of cut.  bill


----------



## Microtus

Gotcha, thanks.


----------



## Texas Sawduster

*Flowers....*



woodnthings said:


> This is a simple 3 piece jig made from 1/4" x 96" x 7" hardboard an 3/4" x 2 3/4" oak and 3 toggle clamps. It will put a straight edge on a board while holding it safely. This is a ripping operation an a splitter should be used. :thumbsup: bill
> You can see in the last photo the curved off fall on the left of the blade.


In your first pic, it appears, at first glance, that the clamps you have there looks like a bouqet of flowers. :laughing:


----------



## avewads

woodnthings - I know this is a very very old post but I am just curious if you still use this jig and what, if any, improvements you made to this jig?

Thanks - Bob


----------



## woodnthings

*yes....*

I added 2 more toggles, one in the center and one on the far end. I find I only need 2 for clamping, but the length of the board to be cut determines which of the toggles I will use.


----------



## souptheturtle

Another great idea. I have built something very similar using 80/20 alum with a track that clamps to the table saw fence. I use a stop with a steel pin at the end and run it through as any other board with a straight edge. Will post a pic when I get a chance


----------



## vursenbach

souptheturtle said:


> using 80/20 alum


LOL. Does it taste like a pickle?

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


----------



## souptheturtle

No it's sweet like cake


----------



## vursenbach

souptheturtle said:


> No it's sweet like cake


I see all that white alum powder on the TS. LOL

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


----------



## Bob Willing

woodnthings said:


> I added 2 more toggles, one in the center and one on the far end. I find I only need 2 for clamping, but the length of the board to be cut determines which of the toggles I will use.


 
I think yours is more practical. Now if I can just get some more clamps.


----------



## goXtreme

That is kinda what I did, except I just clamp some laminated plywood, that is 16' long, to the fence and use that as the straight edge. 

I like your sled type a little better, I think that it would work so much better for shorter stock. 

I might just have to build one of those. 

Thanks for sharing.

Typed on my iPhone 4S using Wood Forum


----------



## avewads

Woodnthings - I see in your latest photo of your jig from this thread, http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/jointing-without-jointer-39152/, that you have new adjustment knobs on your board straightening jig. Where did you get those. I am in the process of finishing up my jig and those would be extremely handy. - Bob


----------



## woodnthings

*Rockler*

They have quite a nice assortment of knob shapes and threads.
I would have liked to use a smaller, lower knob but those were in my "knobs" box at the time.  bill


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

My TS-55 works like a champ to SL timbers.


----------



## woodnthings

*You mean this?*

Amazon.com: Festool TS 55 EQ Plunge Cut Circular Saw (set): Home Improvement


----------



## avewads

Uh, Bill, I maybe missing something but who has a nice selection?


----------



## woodnthings

*sorry I should have linked it for you*

http://woodworking.rockler.com/search?asug=&w=jig+knobs&Search.x=0&Search.y=0 :blink:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1571&site=ROCKLER


----------



## avewads

Thanks Bill.


----------



## WarnerConstInc.

woodnthings said:


> Amazon.com: Festool TS 55 EQ Plunge Cut Circular Saw (set): Home Improvement


Yeah Bill. Just one of the many uses of a rail saw.


----------



## Ant

woodnthings said:


> If you use a thick base say 3/4" rather than 1/4" the piece will fall 3/4" when the cut is completed. It might bounce a little and into the blade but not necessarily, as it falls. This is not fixed in stone, but just a precaution I wanted to try on this jig. Keeping the base thin also allows for a greater depth of cut.  bill


You could use same thickness material on the other side of the blade so there will be no fall off problems. Just need to clamp a board to the TS top. That way you could use thicker support material.


----------



## woodnthings

*additional support is not really needed*

The design of the sled using a thin bottom piece of 1/4" Masonite is made much stiffer by the Oak 1" X 3" mounting piece. The 1/4" drop doesn't cause any issues and a 3/4" piece would just add weight, reduce the maximum depth of cut and serve no real purpose in my view. My design works just fine....... :yes:


----------



## MT Stringer

woodnthings said:


> The design of the sled using a thin bottom piece of 1/4" Masonite is made much stiffer by the Oak 1" X 3" mounting piece. The 1/4" drop doesn't cause any issues and a 3/4" piece would just add weight, reduce the maximum depth of cut and serve no real purpose in my view. My design works just fine....... :yes:


Apparently so, at least for the past three years, huh? :yes:


----------

