# Custom Computer Desk - Help/Advice Needed



## Mortiferon (Oct 13, 2011)

This will be my first project. Because of that and the fact that I want and need to build this as cheaply as possible, but without sacrificing structural integrity, I have chosen to make this an entirely "skeleton" design by not using any panels, drawers or other fancy trappings (it will be 'unfinished' in other words). I also do not have any tools other than a skillsaw and a power drill in addition to a tape measure and ruler, but I intend to have Lowe's cut the lumber for me after I buy from them and take it from there.

So now that's out of the way, here's what I'm thinking:

Lumber
3/4" x 8' x 4' Oak Hardwood Plywood
2x2 for the eight legs/shelf stands
2x6 for the desk support/skirts
2x4 for the top shelf support/skirts

Overall measurements
Top shelf: 65" W x 12" D x 3/4" T (9-1/2" H)
Desk surface: 65 W x 24" D x 3/4" T (31" H)
Pull-out trays: 32" W x 12" D x 3/4" T
Bottom side shelves: 12" x 22" D (Two per side)

Joint Hardware
Threaded Inserts (1/4"-20 inner thread x 1/2" long; 3/8" pilot holes)
Machine Screws (1/4"-20 thread x 2-1/2" long; flat Phillips head)
Hanger Bolts (1/4"-20 thread x 3" long)
Corner brackets (1" - going to screw the surfaces in using these, with slightly smaller screw diameter than the holes to allow for slight movement as the wood expands and contracts with the change of seasons and humidity to hopefully avoid cracking and bowing).

Other
Drawer Slides (12" - need two)
Shelf Pins (need 16)
Stain (dark - unsure of what type I'll be using)
Finish (unsure of what type I'll be using)


I plan to just pilot a 3/8" hole through the 2x2 legs and into the sides of the 2x6 and 2x4 boards, put threaded inserts into both and then screw in the machine screws (hanger bolts in the case of the middle 33" sections between the two middle 2x2 legs at the back, just going to line it up and twist it in).


Now that we have all of that out of the way, the build date estimate is for January 2012 (need to make some money first and at present I only work Seasonally). I want to get all of the details worked out well in advance to minimize the risk of costly and catastrophic mistakes.

So, any advice or help or anything at all will be very appreciated. :thumbsup:


(P.S. the attachments aren't working properly for me right now so the next post will have hopefully upload the rest of the plan details).


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## Mortiferon (Oct 13, 2011)

OK, the attachments won't let me upload right now so here they are by another method:

This is the top-down 2D view and measurements in inches of each piece:









Oak Hardwood Plywood cut (I know it's a bit off but it serves its purpose)









Keyboard tray slides (once again it is not accurate or to scale, but serves its purpose)


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

First piece of advice: Don't count on Lowes to make accurate cuts. They're usually good to within an inch or so, but it looks like you don't have that much to play with.

You can get plenty accurate with a circular saw, which I assume is what you mean by skilsaw. What you need is a straight-edge (preferably something rigid, not just a metal yardstick) and some clamps. I use an old two-piece straightedge I got from my father, and a pair of cheap spring clamps. Work out how far it is from the edge of the circular saw foot to the edge of the kerf it cuts, and offset your straight-edge by that much. Alternatively, build your own! There are lots of good guides, many of which don't require much in the way of tools to build the guide.

You also want a better blade than is the default on most circular saws. I finally bought a Freud Diablo blade for my cordless saw, and it made an enormous difference.

Last thing from me: Remember the cut line isn't 1 dimensional. If you make three cuts with a circular saw, you'll have removed something like 3/16". (The Diablo 7 1/2" blades claim a kerf of .059"). That's not huge, but it can mess up your measurements if you're not ready for it.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

I have made a few desks using wood from Lowes. Not my first choice but when you're on a budget what are you gonna do? I agree you aren't going to get super acurate cuts from the guys there. They can however break down your sheet goods into more manageable pieces which makes using your circ saw and guide a bit easier. As AMCkenzie4 says above you will be pretty suprised how good your cuts are using this method with a sharp blade. You can also help with splintering if you score your line with a razor before you cut. Remember a circ saw blade comes up through the wood so keep your good face down. Your design looks good. I find it easier to use a carcass cabinet type construction. You can make a pretty handsome desk completely out of plywood with some applied moulding. I made one where the face frame and everything is plywood. I painted the whole thing so I could use cheap/ugly wood. My wife is super trendy and she likes the painted furniture you see in Pottery Bark Kids and similar ad mailers. (works for me cuz again I can use cheaper wood) ANYWAY good luck and post some pics as you go along


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