# How to get it apart?



## D0ZX (Dec 29, 2007)

Hello
I want to take apart my kitchen cabinet door frames so that I can remove the inner panel, I only need to take one side loose so I can slide the panel out.

What is the best way to loosen the glue joint? Frames are made of oak and I will be refinishing them, saving the finish is not an issue.

Thanks


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## Corndog (Apr 26, 2007)

Use a heat gun to soften the glue. Keep it moving so you don't scorch the wood. I can't tell you how many guitars I've taken apart using that method.


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## D0ZX (Dec 29, 2007)

Sounds like a good plan Corndog. Going to the barn to get my heat gun right now...

Thanks


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## Corndog (Apr 26, 2007)

Or there's always plan "B".....my fave....CHAINSAW!!!!:devil2: :laughing:


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## D0ZX (Dec 29, 2007)

I may have to fire that saw up!!
Here is what I'm up against now, 2 brads in each joint, the heat loosens the glue but I cant pry it apart because of the brads.


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## Corndog (Apr 26, 2007)

DAMN YOU NORM ABRAM AND YOUR BRADS!!!! :laughing: 
Ummmm....yeah. I'm stumped. Sorry.


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## daryl in nanoose (Feb 18, 2007)

From the back you could drill out the brad just shy of the front face. 
Just a thought.


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## Corndog (Apr 26, 2007)

In theory,yes. but a 18 gauge brad???? The bit is going to take the path of least resistance....the wood. You'll end up makin' a whole new door I think.:thumbdown:


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## Bruce B (Oct 1, 2007)

When I put a brad in the wrong place in my projects, I use a nail punch to push it through just far enough to pull it out with a pair pliers.

Bruce.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

That stinks, stupid brads. The only thing I can think of (and this is sloppy) drill a hole like daryl suggested. Just beside the brad, and push the brad head over into the hole were you can get ahold of it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Don't make too much of a mess that you can't drill a 3/8" hole over the whole area once the brad is out. Take a 3/8" oak plug and glue it in to patch. Kinda sucky idea, but that is all I got. They are on the inside of the door at least.
An endgrain oak plug if you line the grain up with what is there shouldn't look too obvious.


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## Corndog (Apr 26, 2007)

Never had that werk fer me. I just end up clippin' 'em off. But I gotta say...there ain't too many brads in a guitar!!!:laughing: Just the jigs.


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## daryl in nanoose (Feb 18, 2007)

Another thought, use a small flat bottom grinding wheel on a drill press.


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## woodman42 (Aug 6, 2007)

I have to agree with Daren. Drill it out and use a plug. I think anything else would be to obvious. Of course I would weigh the option of how much time and labor you will be putting into the doors verses just making new ones.


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## c1856 (Jan 1, 2008)

*another drilling option*

Along the lines of drilling a small pilot hole, perhaps you could take a countersinking cutter and remove the pilot drill. Then drill down with the brad going into the hole normally occupied by the pilot drill. Chase it down enough to grab the protruding brad with needle nose pliers to pull it out.

Just a thought, haven't tried it before...

Chuck


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## Corndog (Apr 26, 2007)

My other solution. Plan "C" a gallon of gas and a match.:laughing: 

Really,Darens idea is best.


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## D0ZX (Dec 29, 2007)

I'm going to try some of the suggested methods and see how it goes.
I've never had to resort to plan C yet, but I aint afraid to do it. lol

Thank's for the ideas guys


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## D0ZX (Dec 29, 2007)

Got it!! Darens way worked.
The brads are shot in from the back of the doors. I drilled a 3/16 hole to remove them so I can drill for larger plugs when done.

Thanks a bunch.


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

*I believe I would use*

a 3/8" diameter, piloted counterbore without the pilot. That way you have a cavity in the cutter where the brad can enter while you are cutting the wood around it leaving a round hole that will accept a plug.

Ed


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## Kingfisher (Oct 14, 2007)

Why are you removing the panels?


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## D0ZX (Dec 29, 2007)

I want to replace some of them with frosted glass and the rest I want to stain the panels a different color than the frames.


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## mdeiley (Jul 4, 2007)

I like your approuch to this project and now I can not take the credit if I decide to replace my panels. My question would it look rather odd if you did drill through and dowel with a complimentry colored dowel? Simply to give the panels a look of doweled pegs at the corners. Or do you think that would look goofy? The locations would need to be carefully layed out on the front to look like it was planned though. Any input would be great.


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## woodman51jfk (Dec 10, 2007)

When retro fitting panels for customers, I always route away the inner portion of the stiles & rails, as it has to come out anyway, for the glass......you certainly do not want to have the glass captured like a wood panel......it is also probably going to be single strength glass...1/8" and your panel is most likely 1/4", resulting in the need for shims-spacers-or heavier 1/4" glass, ....same for the ones you just want to re-stain......remove the inner lip, re-finish the panels, reinstall & put parting stops in with micro brads....this method totally avoids any damage to the front of the doors.


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## D0ZX (Dec 29, 2007)

Woodman is right on the money with his info! After I removed the first panel and did some checking on glass thickness, his way is the best.

I think the contrast in color for the dowels would look good myself..


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## Kingfisher (Oct 14, 2007)

I do what woodman said too thats why I asked what you were doing. Plus you can do this with out taking the whole thing apart, just take your time and finish the cuts by hand.


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

You know, they do make plug drilling bits ...and for disolving glue... I use citric acid in powder form mixed with water. Just sand the door then saturate the glue joint.Rick


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## dpmcreations (Feb 3, 2008)

*hold on..*

Let my stupid side kick in... Are you trying to replace the centers of the doors with glass inserts instead of wood.... 

If you are there might be a way easier method than you have described....


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