# Old adjustable dado blade and molding blade



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi everyone,

When I was home for the hols, my grandfather gave me an old craftsman adjustable dado blade (barely used) and a molding set (never used). There was a small booklet inside that dates to 1965.

I've never used a dado blade before, and I think this is what is referred to when people talk about "wobble blades", is this correct? Anyways, I have a couple of questions.

1. I'm assuming that even though the blade is 7" that this will fit a 10" TS granted that the arbor fits. I have a 4100 Bosch contractor's saw. 

2. Do I need a special table insert to use this dado blade? And if so, this would probably be something to get from Bosch, not craftsman, yes?

3. What's the recommended feed rate for these types of blades? I notice that there are some newer adjustable blades that have many more teeth.

4. Any special uses for the molding set other than for making molding? 

Any advise or thoughts would be appreciated,

Thanks in advance!

-SW


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

The problem with the wobblies is most saws don't
had a long enough arbor shaft. You need at least
three threads showing out side the nut.

They work fine it they will fit.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I have the same "wobble" daddo set and it works fine on my Craftsman saw. Just takes a number of setup passes to get the width correctly set. Once setup a moderate feed rate works good.

I also have a Craftsman molding blade set. However, mine is 3 blade vs the one blade shown. I think that with the one blade the feed rate will have to be slow.

On my Craftsman 10" saw the same table insert works for both sets. You would have to get (or make) the proper insert for your particular manufacturer saw.

If I remember my mil specs correctly, only 1 1/2 thread is necessary outside of the nut.

George


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## xeddog (Dec 14, 2009)

I have both the wobble dado blade and the three cutter molding head. I quit using the wobble dado because I never could get a very good looking cut with it. That and when you make wide dadoes the bottom of the dado is slightly coved or dished if you prefer. I bought a Freud SD208 and it did a much better job. I have just recently replaced the Freud with a Forrest Dado King and all I can say about it is WOW! Should have done that a long time ago.

As for the molding head, I have not used it in many years (more than 20) but I have been eyeing it a bit the last few months. I have been thinking about using it to add some detail to some picture frames. When I did use it, it worked. I have to warn you though. Safety is important with ANY cut you make, but it is even more important with that moulding head. In some ways it's more like using a jointer than a table saw. You don't make a 1/4" cut with a jointer and you won't do it with the molding head either. If you try to, you may wind up eating your workpiece or performing your own prostate surgery. The first pass should not do much more than barely score the surface of the wood. Each pass after that, don't raise the cutter more than about 1/32" (and I cringed saying that much). It may take you 7 or 8 or 9 or 10 passes to get the depth you want. Control of the workpiece is very important so use good push sticks that let you keep downward pressure on the wood and keep the wood running straight and true. If you try to get by just using a stick to push the end of the wood you are asking for a wood sandwich. If you are careful with your table saw (and we all are), be "carefuler" if you use the molding head. 

I don't mean to scare you to the point you don't want to use it. It can be used safely, and it can do some nice things. But it does deserve a little added respect. I wouldn't be surprised if this thing may be operating just outside the design envelope of the saw. You just have to make sure you ease into your cuts and make sure you have positive control of the wood. After you have tried it a few times you will learn it's strengths and weaknesses, and be able to use it confidently.


xeddog


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Thread exposure*

Being in the metalworking industry for 26 years now, the nut placement on a bolt by design of the thread is the lenght of the nuts threads should equal the diameter of the bolt it is going to be threaded on. You can find this in the Machinerys Handbook. This places the minimum amount of threads required to be at the surface of the nut.
I however would not want anything less than 1 to 2 threads past the nut on a table saw or other high rpm device for safety reasons.


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## joek30296 (Dec 16, 2009)

Streamwinner,
I have to ditto everything Xeddog said and a little bit more. While the molding head cutter will do a fine job for you if you're careful, it's like a woodworking shaper turned on its edge. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most dangerous, a shaper is a 10 in my opinion. It takes a while to get enough guards in place to do a job safely. I have sometimes taken as much as 2 hours to set up a shaper to do a 5 minute job.(Yeah, I'm slow). 

I said all that to say, take your time setting up your molding head cutter, cover as much of the blade as you can, use hold downs, guards, and push blocks. You'll be amazed at what you can do. Just BE CAREFUL! 

Happy New Year,

joe


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks, everyone, for the tips. I'll give them a *safe* whirl.


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## rodney56 (Dec 19, 2012)

I have used both on a 10 inch radial arm saw they work great but somebody stole my dado blade like yours have been trying yo find another one like it but have had little success.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I have the same moulding head cutter. It works great for mouldings, etc. The picture shows a few test cuts in red oak. They were done in one pass and without holddowns. Not saying not to use them, but these were done without, and in one pass.


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