# Acquiring first hand plane tool...suggested sources?



## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I've already found a few instances where being able to hand plane would have helped. I have no such tools now and so I'm looking at various sources. Here are my options so far:

1) Brand new - most expensive (probably?), and there seems to be a favoritism for the older stuff
2) Auctions - they come up occasionally, and it'd take a lot of time and patience to end up getting one in good shape at a good price.
3) Craigslist - haven't seen any of them come up, unless they were part of some bigger lot of tools.
4) Ebay - There seems to be quite a variety there, and prices range all over, but some I'd consider cheap at their CURRENT bid, but with only a few hours to go (ya, I know...it always jumps way up in the last few seconds)

I guess the main question is...if I *did* go ebay, is there something in particular I should look out for? At least with auctions and craigslist I'd have the chance to look the tool over first, but even doing that, I really don't know if one tool is really much like the other and it doesn't MATTER if it's a Stanley vs. any other brand.

Hand plane, block plane, jack plane, aero plane....is there one in particular at this point I should make my focus for acquiring that will probably be suitable for most of my needs?

Thanks


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

If you are just now getting into hand planes I would reccomend two. 

A number 4 jack plane and low angle block plane. 

Lowes sells a Stanly Bailey low angle block plane for about 30 bucks. Its a great little plane to grab to learn the ins and out of planeing. 

Older Stanley Bailey #4s can be found on ebay for around 40$, and they seem to be the best overall value in used planes. There is a wealth of information available on the web about Baileys, so you can kind of get a feel for what you are buying. 

Lie Nielson, Footprint, Sweethearts, and other expensive planes are nice, but I wouldnt get an expensive one first. I would start with something more affordable. 

Whatever you end up getting, they aren't worth a damn unless they are razor sharp, and the sole needs to be flat. I sharpen my planes on my Diasharp sharpening stones, and I flattent the soles of planes with my 6 inch belt sander and my sharpening stones. 

And honestly, any inexpensive used plane you come across can be made usable with some simple cleaning, sharpening, and flattening. So, if you come across some an unfamiliar brand for a few bucks, don't discount it. Like just about any tool, you can tell by looking at it if its junk, usable, or high quality. 

I would definitely avoid ones with plastic handles and warped soles.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Thanks very much for the info and suggestions.

If there's a danger of getting a warped sole, then I should avoid ebay maybe, unless I can ask them specifically if the sole is warped? Is a warped sole something that can't be flattened?

That was the other question I had, since I know all tutorials I've seen on hand planes stress the flattening and sharpening....can you recommend the basic minimum of what I'd need for that? Stones, or spray adhesive and sand paper? I need to find a belt sander...


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

For the budget minded, I favor the older planes. There are some pitfalls to avoid, but here are some links that might be helpful.

Good quality hand planes on a budget

CianPerez.com

Rexmill.com

Oldtoolheaven.com

record-planes.com

recordhandplanes.com

The dangers of a warped sole apply to any plane except the very best new planes. I've never witness one that was warped badly enough to be unusable. You're likely to find that the soles of the older planes have already been fettled at some point....possibly even decades ago. This may be becoming a lost art in our era, but hand plane tuning was pretty common knowledge 50-100 years ago. I wouldn't avoid Ebay over the remote chance of getting a warped sole...check feedback, research the plane and the type. Check the free classifieds on places like Sawmillcreek.org, woodnet.net, or here for used planes from fellow woodworkers.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Knottscott offers good info. 

Even my brand new Stanley Bailey low angle block plane needed a little flattening. You can flatten even the worst of block planes simply using sanding paper, a flat surface and elbow grease, I just wouldn't want to be the one providing the elbow. My belt sander and expensive sharpening stones make quick work of flattening soles.


Good sharpening stones are essential. 

A Norton double sided Whetstone, in my opinion, is the best overall value in sharpening stones available. You can get them in 6" or 8" models. 
I currently use DiaSharp 3"x8" diamond stones in extra coarse, coarse, fine, and extra fine to facilitate all my sharpening needs. These are pricey, heavy, but extremely nice stones. Arkansas stones are also really nice expensive stones to have. I would avoid inexpensive whetstones. If you are on a budget, cheaper diamond stones are a better buy in my opinion.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, for good or ill, I now own 2 #4 planes for a total of $40 in. They are old and will need some cleanup, and have various mainly cosmetic flaws, but seems a good enough place to start. 

I've seen at least a few tutorials on cleaning/tuning these things, and for flattening the sole, I saw the guy use spray adhesive and sandpaper on a flat surface. In fact, I think he used his table saw surface.

1) I don't have a table saw surface I can use for that. I've heard of using a piece of slate, I assume at a big box store. Is that the next best alternative for having a piece of flat surface available for this?

2) If I spray adhesive on and glue down a piece of sand paper for this...how do you ever get the sand paper up?? I assume it must be pretty easy to do or you'd never do it to your table saw top!

I'll look into the stones next.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

For my block planes and smaller planes I use a granite tile to flatten the bottom. Usually a couple of bucks at the box store. A granite sink cut out works for larger planes. I use roll sandpaper and tuck it under the granite.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

I have been extremely leery of buying planes, any planes, new or used sight unseen, and second hand planes are extremely rare around here. Combine that with my being cheap, and I ended up with 3 hand planes in my tool list. All from Groz, a low angle block plane, a #4, and a #5. A little bit of tuning and they cut great.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

The planes I have are old Stanley's I found on Ebay. A few hours of elbow grease and they cut like a knife through hot butter.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

John, that's my situation...2 planes coming from ebay. Do you have a particular favorite source for reconditioning/tuning information that I can follow, or do you have your own method just by practice?

I'm thinking of calling around to countertop makers and asking if they have "scrap" pieces of granite I can buy as a flat surface to do the sole sanding on.

Then I have to decide on what sharpening system to go with. It never ends...


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

Or a piece of good, 1/4 " thick glass will work as a flat surface for your glued down sandpaper.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Is that the float glass I keep hearing about? I was just leary of pushing down hard on *glass* while flattening this thing.

I called a local countertop shop and he said for the size of granite I'd be wanting (about 4" X 1 ft) he guessed about $50. :thumbdown: He said they really didn't have any "scraps" of a suitable size (maybe 3" X 7" max)

I mean, I *know* woodworking is expensive, and for most of the tools, it's pretty justified...but I _hate_ spending large money on the peripheral stuff. I mean, I just need a FLAT SURFACE. Grrrr.

I know lowes sells glass, I'll see if they have 1/4" and they should be able to cut whatever size I need. Hopefully they soften the edges too?


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

1/4 " glass at lowes will be expensive. 

my sharpening stones cost me nearly 200$. But I can sharpen anything I want now 

A 4" belt sander at harbor freight is 74$.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ya, belt sander is definitely on the radar....long range radar, though.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

beelzerob said:


> Is that the float glass I keep hearing about? I was just leary of pushing down hard on *glass* while flattening this thing.
> 
> I called a local countertop shop and he said for the size of granite I'd be wanting (about 4" X 1 ft) he guessed about $50. :thumbdown: He said they really didn't have any "scraps" of a suitable size (maybe 3" X 7" max)
> 
> ...


You don't need to push down too hard to remove rust or sharpen -- the harder you push the less likely it is that you're going to be holding the blade/plane flat, anyway.

I found a glass door from a cabinet of some sort in my basement, left behind by the previous owners of my house. If you watch yard sales and flea markets you might be able to find something similar... it's big enough for two sheets of sandpaper, and it's pretty solid. One of those old A/V cabinets, or one of the all-in-one stereo cabinets for really cheap stereos would probably work well.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

beelzerob said:


> John, that's my situation...2 planes coming from ebay. Do you have a particular favorite source for reconditioning/tuning information that I can follow, or do you have your own method just by practice?
> 
> I'm thinking of calling around to countertop makers and asking if they have "scrap" pieces of granite I can buy as a flat surface to do the sole sanding on.
> 
> Then I have to decide on what sharpening system to go with. It never ends...


I clean off rust first. Start with a wire brush then sandpaper. I've tried electrolysis but it's messy and not as effective. If the plane needs repainted do it after cleaning. I lap the bottom as I said above with 180 and 220 on granite. Check cl or ask at a new home site. I have a sharpening setup from HF. It has a wet horizontal wheel and a dry vertical one. I couldn't find it on the new site so they may not carry it any more. After all that work just set the blade depth so the shavings come out easily.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

thanks for the tips John. I noticed some paint and general darkening on the knob and handle of the planes. What is the easiest/safest way to clean up that wood so it looks like wood again, and then should I seal it again with something?


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Remove the handles and refinish em. Clean with mineral spirits, lightly sand and varnish. Polyurethane will hold up well under use.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Excellent, thanks!

I actually found a craiglist ad for pieces of granite for $8/lf, but it's 80 miles away. Grrr...nothing is ever easy.

Isn't MDF considered generally pretty flat? I mean, it's a staple of fence construction in these forums, and that usually requires a certain amount of flatness.

Maybe I can just glue some sand paper to our slide glass door and use that. :laughing:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Success! I called a local glass shop and dropped by and walked out with a 3/8" thick piece of glass, 6" X 24" for around $13. I'm pleased enough.

I figure I can use the spray adhesive to put 180 on one side of the glass and 220 on the other.

Since using spray adhesive is somewhat popular method...how do I go about removing the adhesive when I'm ready to replace the paper? I noticed on the botton of elmer's spray adhesive I bought that it had directions "for temporary hold", which involved spraying and then letting it sit for a minute or so before attaching. Then does it just peel off? I guess that and some citrus cleaner and it'll be all removed?


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

If it doesn;t just peel off, hit it with a blow dryer, and it should come right off.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, as is typical with ebay, you don't get exactly what you thought, though I did get exactly what was pictured!

I ended up with only 1 plane. The other seller of the hand plane refunded me and said "sorry, you can't have it." :thumbdown: 

The plane I *did* get is in rougher shape than I realized. Its missing several sections of the body along the sides...clearly it was dropped at least once.

So...did I end up with something useful/recoverable, or did I just get my first piece of workshop ornamentals??


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Well...the front knob looks to be intact. :thumbsup: Aren't there laws against abusing a plane like that?! :huh:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, the seller said it was a 1902 Bailey (not stanley) hand plane, so I know if I'D been around since 1902, I'd have a lot more parts of me missing than that.

I guess I'll just progress ahead with getting it cleaned up and see how well it works!


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Welcome to the Journey:boat:! It is truly amazing the things to be learned! If this crewe can't point you in the right direction you are in trouble.

There is no tool like an old tool, my friend. When you have acquired all of the things you need to re-condition those planes you will be ready for the ones in your future.:thumbsup:

It is an investment that will pay off in the tools that will be working for you in the years to come.:yes:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Encouraging words, thanks! 
:thumbsup:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ok, Im having some paralysis of analysis (my most common state). 

All the parts came apart easily. I don't see a lot of rust, nothing deep anyway, but there is quite a bit of grime and even sawdust in there.









I'm thinking of going the citric acid bath method of cleaning, since we happen to have citric acid around (woohoo for home made beer).

So I would bath all the metal parts in the citric acid bath and use a nylon brush to clean them up. Once they're clean, how do I "rinse" the metal parts from the citric acid bath, or do I?

For cleaning the wood parts, all Ive seen mentioned is just sandpaper. Is that all thats needed, or would mineral spirits work well too?

Thanks for the help. I know the info is out there, but that's what's driving me insane....too many ways mentioned to do this. I just want to know that I'm reasonably sane in this method.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Take the knob and handle out! No water for them:no:. Citric acid is ok, although I like Naval Jelly. It's phosphoric acid which is stronger and leaves a phosphate protective coating. In either case, wash with warm water and a toothbrush. Dry the metallic parts very thoroughly. A trip into the oven at 125 for an hour wouldn't hurt:yes:. For the wood, a very light sanding and the the treatment of your choice. Replacement handles and knobs are available from several woodworking supply companies. 

I use Ballistol for all my tools:thumbsup:. Classified as biodegradable and can be used on metal, wood and leather.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ok then:

1) All metal parts into a citric acid bath (1 cup acid to 1 gal water). Let soak for an hour and scrub with a scotchbrite pad and toothbrush for the nooks and crannies.

2) Warm water rinse for all metal parts.

3) 1 hour in the over @ 125 for drying.

4) All wooden parts just get sanded, starting probably @ 220 grit to remove the paint and darkness. I've seen sites that show putting the knob in your drill press and sanding it smooth that way, but I don't think I have the guts to do that.

5) A light coat of oil on all of the metal parts for ease of assembly and rust protection

6) A coat of ??? for the wood. (I don't have a treatment of choice, I'm so new to this. I've heard good things about water-based poly though so I think I'll try that).

THANKS for the help!


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Use 2 coats of polyurethane varnish on the wood. It's tough and can stand up to lots of use.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ok, I'm done collecting hand planes now...at least until I start USING them.

I went to an auction today and among the other items I got was this plane.

























They were auctioning off 2 planes at the time, and the winner bidder got to choose which they wanted. I won (for $9) and chose the Millers Falls 9C. The other bidder had the option of taking the other plane for $9 also and he declined so the auctioned that one as well, and I won it...for $1. However, you can probably see why.

















It's even in much worse shape than my Bailey! I may have to learn electrolysis after all. 

I can't even find any brand or markings or anything on this. Any hints as to what it is? (if it's anything more than junk)


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That Millers Falls #9 is the equivalent size of a Bailey #4. It should clean up nicely, and could be a very nice user. :thumbsup:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

What was/is the purpose of the corrugation on some particular planes, including that one?

edit: doh, nevermind...found that out. It's so I dont have to work so hard!! I'm still trying to identify the other one though.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

A couple of quick items:
1. You may have a 1902 Stanley Rule and Level Co. plane, not a Bailey. It was designed by Bailey but he sold his patents to SRL. He and Stanley didn't get along so he left and designed different planes (Independence and Defiant brands - See the trend!). To Stanley's credit they kept the name on their planes.
2. Looks like a good transition plane! Treat the wood with Ballistol or linseed oil, all it will take! The rust doesn't look all that bad.

Looks as though the bug has bitten, but you see why you need to go with reputable dealers. Preferably after you get you hands on the tool!

The corrugation was supposed to reduce friction by reducing the surface area of the plane in contact with the wood. My opinion is that it was a gimmick! It just means that the weight of the plane is supported by less contact area. Higher weight per unit area - more friction.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Thanks for the info and help!

Before I do the citric acid bath, do I have to worry about it taking off the red paint of the millers falls engraving on the cap iron? I don't want that to happen.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Since it's a nice "user", as opposed to a collector plane, you can always retouch the red paint on the lever cap if necessary...


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well nuts....through miscommunication I was told we had citric acid, and turns out it was a cute little bottle of ascorbic acid. :icon_rolleyes:

So now I'm back to square one finding something suitable (aka on hand) for cleaning.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Dinnae Fash Yersel, Laddie!:no: Hie down to the hardware store and get a bottle of Naval Jelly.:thumbsup: Just treat it with respect (rubber gloves and eye protection). It will probably remove the japanning, but as noted, you are looking for a usable tool, not a museum piece. If your conscience bothers you, get some matching red paint and exercise your artistic side!:laughing:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, if I'm going down to the store anyway, I might as well get citric acid. My wife reminded me that we had bought some at Lowes once to clean the garage floor before painting it, so I shouldn't need to hunt down a beer supply store. Besides, any leftover acid we can just add to our orange juice, right?? 

I definitely do intend to use these, and I'm *not* looking to keep their original paint, yadda yadda. I just like the new shiny look of cleaning something up that was rusted and grimed, and I'm really not convinced I could manage to paint it back as good as it was.

So far as I know, that's the only piece on the MF plane that has paint on it, so I'll probably just sandpaper that clean instead of the bath.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ok, the Stanley #4 got the cleaning tonight. I decided on simple warm soapy water to clean the crud, and then WD40 and steel wool to clean up any rust, then liberal WD40 to protect. I think it worked pretty well, and didn't require another trip to the store!

The handles I sanded with 150 to get the paint off then 220. I can see the grain now!









They're still a dull brown...more dull and dark than this picture with flash makes it look. Have I sanded enough or should it take more? Are these things supposed to be rosewood/red in color? I thought I saw a few small specks of red color when I was sanding it down, but those went away.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Handles: Rosewood is named for the odor when freshly cut, not the color.:yes: You don't need anything but linseed oil or Ballistol and they will have a totally different appearance. I prefer the feel of oiled wood, polyurethane if you prefer:thumbsup:. The red you saw, and can still see, at the base of the knob is paint. They painted the wood as well as selected parts - cheap and fast!

The brown metal is a thin surface rust. Browned metal is considered beautiful in some circumstances.:laughing: Oil the metal to prevent rust and don't worry about it. If it really bugs you, you could have the metal parts replated.:blink: A lot of tools in the early 20th century were probably nickel plated, and then possibly followed by chrome plating. No rust and no contact dermatitis from the nickel! Just depends on what you want to spend.

The other alternative is to thoroughly clean the metal of any dirt and oil, japan it and then treat it to a trip to the oven - not gas, though. You don't want a source of combustion for the paint vapors! 150 for an hour should bake the paint on!

WD40 evaporates. My preference is Ballistol, which does anything WD40 does and is intended to work on wood and leather, too! Ballistol does not evaporate so the metal stays protected. We literally buy it by the gallon at Steppingstone Museum. I started using it in the mid-1990's.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

No, the jappanning doesn't bother me, nor having the body painted (which is good because we don't have a non-gas oven around here!).

By linseed oil, do you mean "boiled" linseed oil? Because I've heard that mentioned a lot of times.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but linseed oil will preserve the wood without making it shiny, and polyurethane will preserve the wood and make it shiny. Is that a super simplification?


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I'm sorry, but could you spell it out for me. Normally for finishes, I would try it on a hidden part of the object, but...well...that's not going to work with these handles, I've only got 1 set!

I bought boiled linseed oil and water based polyurethane. Do I need to use oil based poly because the linseed oil is oil based? I'm being driven crazy by the plethora of options for finishes and varnishes and poly's, oh my.

Could you please detail the steps for finishing the knob and handle? I just want it to look at beautiful natural wood as possible while being protected from my very sweaty grip.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Fun, isn't it! I told you this is a journey, not a destination!:boat: You never reach the end of the learning!

We used linseed oil for our rifle stocks in the Marine Corps. And, if it's good enough for a Marine's rifle, I think it will be good for your plane handles!:thumbsup: If you use the linseed oil just put it on in coats until the wood isn't having any more. You can put the wooden parts in a container add oil and turn them once in a while for a few hours. Then remove and wipe dry. I would give the handle and knob 24 hours or so before use. If you want shiny rub on layers of the linseed oil and rub until it gets warm!:yes: You will develop a shine. I have seen rifle stocks that looked like glass. Wash your hands carefully after each coat!

Linseed oil used to be boiled so that it would polymerize. Now, they just put heavy metals in to catalyze the reaction. Don't use the stuff for food contact surfaces (cutting boards, rolling pins, salad bowls.:thumbdown:

LSO will make the wood look as good as almost any finish, give some protection from water (sweat) and is easily touched up. Just make sure any rags are spread out to dry. Wadded up, you may get spontaneous combustion! Whoosh, Bang, Nasty. Actually no Bang, but a fire. Otherwise in an all-metal container with a tight metal lid. No plastic, this stuff can get hot!

Water-based Polyurethane will give a good appearance, but it is a film-forming finish and the beauty is skin deep. If it wears, and it will, you will need to sand and re-apply.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well nuts, I got the _boiled_ linseed oil. Back to the store.....

So, linseed oil all by itself is good enough then...I don't need anything on top of that.

I agree, I have *so incredibly much* to learn...I just didn't want to learn on these handles. A few rounds of learning and sanding to fix it and I wouldn't have much handle left!!

And thanks for the advice about the rags...I had heard that from a mill owner and I couldn't remember which exactly chemicals it was that do that. I'm planning on spreading out any rags I use outside so they can dry and be OUTSIDE.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Nearly any oil will work well on your handles...BLO, Danish oil, tung oil...


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Sorry! I wasn't clear.:thumbdown: The "Boiled Linseed Oil" you buy is LSO mixed with drying agents (heavy metal catalysts) so it will polymerize. Linseed Oil will not polymerize or "dry" by itself.:huh: LSO is very flammable and boiling it is hazardous. The manufacturers just shifted the hazard to the user!

The label will say "Boiled Linseed Oil" regardless.:blink:

If you can make your way to Steppingstone Museum (www.steppingstonemuseum.org) at Havre de Grace, MD some Saturday, we can spend some time going over the care and feeding of planes. Bring them along! We'll make some room at a workbench and show you how to use them, too.:yes:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Thats a great offer that if time or distance permitted I would for sure take you up on. 

A few in other forums had suggested BLO would make the handle too dark to really see the grain. I'd definitely like the grain to be noticeable. It was also suggested just to simply use wax and only wax to coat the handle. I have johnson's paste wax, but beeswax was the suggested type. Would wax bring out the grain color? If the paste wax I have onhand will do it, then it certainly seems the safest and simplest at this point.

Otherwise, what about BLO and then wax on top of that?


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

You could use either wax or use the oil and then wax. I would suggest you do a bit of experimenting and see which you prefer. The wax can be removed easily enough with rubbing alcohol. We are really getting into personal likes and dislikes here. It gets down to what brings a smile to you face when you see your tools and when you handle them!

For what it is worth, I would use the beeswax on the soles of the plane to reduce friction and boiled linseed oil on the wood, that being what you have. My preference is Ballistol everything and a touch of beeswax on the sole of metal and wooden planes. Non Disputans Degustibus! (There is no arguing with taste!)


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Thanks! Ill take your recommendation directly. I've got a lot of experimenting and learning left to do before I learn what I actually like, and I'm pretty sure I won't got through enough handles and knobs to find what I like there.

I bought the paste wax to polish onto my machining surfaces, so I'll definitely put a coat on the bottom of the plane.

I will apply the BLO to the handle and knob then without any other added stuff, and we'll see what happens! thanks!


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

As the great philosopher, Rick Nelson, so cogently said "You can't please everyone, so you've got to please yourself!":thumbsup: They are your tools and have to suit you:icon_smile:. Voyage and enjoy the trip, my friend!:boat:
If you can sail down the Susquehanna to HdeG, the bench has a place for you!


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I went with a mix of about 50% BLO and 50% mineral spirits, as was mention in the "staining walnut" thread. I had thought the mix would lessen the darkening effect of the BLO. Well, if it did, I can't tell.  Amusingly, the knob and handle are as dark now as when I first got the plane. I had assumed the knob and handle were just dark from age and dirt, but perhaps not.

Anyway, I can really see no grain now on the knob and barely some on the sides of the handle. Oh well. I know I can sand it and do it all over again, but I think I'll live with it for a while first. I probably should have just gone with the wax, and will next time.

The good news is that I learned something!! And that alone made it worth it!  Thanks for all the input and suggestions.

By the way...do you guys preserve/keep your mixes like this? (the half and half mix?) I can't pour it back into the BLO container obviously, and I don't want to pour it down the drain (we have our own septic system here). For now I just put it safely in the outside barn and figured it'd evaporate away, but I didn't know if it was preservable for later use. I think the margarine container I used has a lid somewhere... :yes:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I learned another valuable lesson....Johnson's wax will turn the wood almost as dark as the BLO did!

I sanded the knob and handle back down, as I wasn't pleased with how dark the BLO/MS mixture had turned it. It was nice to see the grain again as I sanded it.

So this time I decided to just try Johnson's Paste Wax.









The handle and knob were essentially the same color before I applied the wax to the knob. :thumbdown: The knob isn't actually as dark as it was with the BLO, but still much darker than I'd like.

Is this just the way of things? Or would clear WB polycrylic protect it and NOT change its color?

Also, how do I remove the wax from the knob...with just mineral spirits? Or more sanding?


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Because the knob is turned, you are seeing end grain, for all practical purposes. That always has a tendency to be darkened by finishes. With what's already been applied, you may have gone about as far as you can go.

Mineral spirits might and alcohol will remove the wax, the problem is removing all the wax. It will affect adhesion of subsequent finishes. If you like the looks of the handle (aka tote) stop and see how it feels when you work.

Besides, the real heart of the plane is the iron. Have you put as much effort into sharpening and tuning as in the wood? The tote and knob are lipstick and mascara.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

MuseumWood said:


> Besides, the real heart of the plane is the iron. The tote and knob are lipstick and mascara.


I think my wife can probably tell you which I'd be more drawn to devoting time to then.... 

Up until yesterday, I was waiting for my honing guide. It finally came, so it was time to flatten the sole of the plane and then sharpen the iron.

Unfortunately (or, as typical), the pieces of sandpaper I have are just about as big as the plane itself. I had read that I could just wet them down with mineral spirits and they would stick down to the glass and I could use them....well, unless they mean SOAKED with MS, that didn't work. So, I have the adhesive spray ready to go now, but I'm going to have to glue pieces end to end to have enough of a surface to move the plane across.

It got too late for me to try honing the actual iron. I'm going to use the sandpaper method for honing and see if it works for me, since that will be a lower entry point than going with stones. Fortunately for doing that, I don't need nearly as large of a piece of sandpaper so I think I can actually do that.


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## jrfuda (Jun 22, 2010)

beelzerob, Nice to see a familiar name here (from cocoontech). I'll be starting my hand plane aquisition oddessey shortly as well, along with a shop full of other tools (oh, and a shop too).


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

hey now, there could be *two* beelzerob's out there.... :laughing:

Glad you found this place too! Cocoontech helped us further our HA addiction, and this site is fantastic for the woodworking addiction too.

Be sure and use the search feature when you have a question....9 times out of 10 when I was about to post what I thought would be a really unique question, it turns out it's already been asked. People here are nice, they won't nag you about not searching for stuff first, but it'll save you some time to find the previous posts.

And now, I haven't written a driver yet for CQC to control any of my power tools. :shifty:  Though I have considered some kind of "panic button" for the shop....


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