# Dust Collector Switched outlet?



## omextreme (Nov 18, 2011)

I am finishing up the wiring in the shop tomorrow. I was already planning on a dedicated circuit for the collector, but i started wondering if it would make sense to make that outlet switched? I am thinking of adding a 2nd switch on the wall near the entrance and putting a switch in to control power to the outlet. 

Is this a good idea?

Edited after further reading. I see the remote options available. Is the remote the best solution @ 70 bucks or is a 2 buck switch on the wall good enough?


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I have the remote option. 

HOWEVER

It's not a $2 switch. It's more like an $8 switch. You really shouldn't use the cheap switch. Use a "Garbage Disposal" switch to switch the DC on and off. The Garbage Disposal switch can better handle the amperes of the dust collector.


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## dmjohnsnx2 (May 30, 2011)

omextreme said:


> I am finishing up the wiring in the shop tomorrow. I was already planning on a dedicated circuit for the collector, but i started wondering if it would make sense to make that outlet switched? I am thinking of adding a 2nd switch on the wall near the entrance and putting a switch in to control power to the outlet.
> 
> Is this a good idea?
> 
> Edited after further reading. I see the remote options available. Is the remote the best solution @ 70 bucks or is a 2 buck switch on the wall good enough?


I have the remote for the dust collection system.
If you put a switch up, it's about the same as going over to the dust collector to turn it on and off. 
With the remote control system you can have a lanyard around your neck and turn it on from anywhere in your shop.
If you have a small shop and just take a couple steps to flip the switch then it's not much of a hassle, but if you have a large shop (mine working are is 36'x30' with a total shop size of 36x50.) the remote for me is a life (and knee) saver.


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## TMA Woodworks (Apr 23, 2010)

I don't know how practical this will be for your situation but how I did it in my shop is using a contactor. The advantage to this is you can locate the switch (contactor) about anyplace that make sense and use low voltage as your control circuit. I have a HF 2 hp motor as the power for my home made cyclone (thank you Bill Pentz). It's wired at 120v so I used a 2 pole contactor and used the 2nd leg as my control line. The nice this about this is the ease of putting a on/off where ever you want. I have 2 located on opposite sides of the shop. If and when I upgrade my DC unit to a bigger motor that runs on 240 volt most of the wiring will be already there. If you want to see little bertha, i have a picture of it in my album. 

Bob


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I may have done the same thing*

I have a 2HP motor that has a relay to start and on/off, contactor?
From there I ran a 3 line 25 foot rubber covered extension cord, minus the ends to a single pole on/off switch in a metal box with magnets on the back side, I just move it around to the machine I'm using and stick on the side using the magnets. It's been so long ago I wouldn't know how I did it, but it works! :blink: bill


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

TMA Woodworks said:


> I don't know how practical this will be for your situation but how I did it in my shop is using a contactor. The advantage to this is you can locate the switch (contactor) about anyplace that make sense and use low voltage as your control circuit. I have a HF 2 hp motor as the power for my home made cyclone (thank you Bill Pentz). It's wired at 120v so I used a 2 pole contactor and used the 2nd leg as my control line. The nice this about this is the ease of putting a on/off where ever you want. I have 2 located on opposite sides of the shop. If and when I upgrade my DC unit to a bigger motor that runs on 240 volt most of the wiring will be already there. If you want to see little bertha, i have a picture of it in my album.
> 
> Bob


Sounds like your "contactor" is a relay system, which uses low voltage switches to work the DC :blink:.
Is this true?


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## TMA Woodworks (Apr 23, 2010)

thegrgyle said:


> Sounds like your "contactor" is a relay system, which uses low voltage switches to work the DC :blink:.
> Is this true?


 
It's like a relay. I use a definate purpose contactor. The function is the same as a relay, it uses low voltage to energize a coil to close a set of contacts. A relay will work for this application but I preferr the DP contactor as the contacts are heavier. You can rate these to your specific load. They work very well in motor start and lighting applications. You can usually pick up a smaller one for $10-20 and start/stop are real cheap at a place we have here in town called The Surplus Center. You can get them at about $5 apiece. By the way, if you guys need inexpensive motor/electrical supplies the Surplus Center is on the web. Just add Lincoln NE to Surplus Center on a google search and it will take you there.

Bob


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

a contactor is a type of relay. it has a coil which can be energized by some ac or dc voltage by design. it has at least, one pair of normall open contacts that are beefier than normal relays in that they can handle the motor start-up inrush of current. A contactor has no motor protection circuitry.

FYI a motor starter, is a contactor with (current) overload protection of some type built in to protect the motor. because a motor will "die trying" to do what is asked of it. they must be overcurrent protected.

general rule of thumb is contactor or switches ok on sub 2hp (watch curent levels). 2hp+ use a motor starter.


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## raskgle (Dec 10, 2007)

*my way*

i use a low voltage to work the dust collector that has remote switch, but still have a switch on the wall that turn all things off. this my way to insure that all is off. carl.


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## TMA Woodworks (Apr 23, 2010)

TimPa said:


> a contactor is a type of relay. it has a coil which can be energized by some ac or dc voltage by design. it has at least, one pair of normall open contacts that are beefier than normal relays in that they can handle the motor start-up inrush of current. A contactor has no motor protection circuitry.
> 
> FYI a motor starter, is a contactor with (current) overload protection of some type built in to protect the motor. because a motor will "die trying" to do what is asked of it. they must be overcurrent protected.
> 
> general rule of thumb is contactor or switches ok on sub 2hp (watch curent levels). 2hp+ use a motor starter.


TimPa is correct. Mine does not have any overload as is it a smaller motor that came with a thermal overload circuit. The IEC starters are broken into 2 parts so you can pick your starter and overload. The overload usually gives you a small variance to dial in you setting. A Nema starter is a prebuilt unit that you specify you parameters. Both will handle small 1-2 hp to 50 hp motors but for what you are trying to do are both a bit of overkill. A heavy duty relay or a DP contactor will do the job and you can make a number of start/stop stations at an economical price. I did my whole set up for about $150.


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