# Drawer clearances? I need some advice.



## The Everyman Show (Jul 10, 2009)

This may sound like a stupid question, but how much room/clearance should I allow for wood drawers inside a wood cabinet?
Over the past few years I have succumbed to using metal ball bearing style full extension drawer runners but I wanted to get back to some old fashion cabinet making. But now I have a dilemma that I could guess at as I'm not 100% sure what to do. I don't want to make the drawers in my project too tight, nor do I want them super sloppy. The project I am working on is an old time apothecary cabinet 28" wide x 34" tall x 14" deep that will have 12-ea individual drawers and each drawer will be approx 7-1/4" wide, 5-1/2" high and 11-1/2" deep. These drawers will run in and out on wooden drawer rails and I will implement a simple thumbturn design to stop the drawer from pulling all the way out. I am making this all out of solid mahogany - no plywood or composite lumber except the drawer bottoms - so I want to be cognizant of the expansion factor. The drawer sides are approx 7/16" thick. I will dovetail all the joints of the drawer box to minimize movement and improve longevity, but I still have the clearance question to deal with. I am leaning towards 1/16th to 3/32nds for total clearance, but I would appreciate any suggestions and input on what other factors I should consider.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Take this for what it's worth. I live in AZ with very little humidity and I give solid drawer boxes 1/8th clearance over all. (1/16 per side, top and bottom. Same for the slide in bottoms. Then, I size the drawer fronts to 1/16 total clearance. (1/32 on each side, top & bottom.)
Even in this dry climate, I have had my fronts bind at the top/bottom. Bear in mind that not only will the fronts move but, so will the rails and stiles. 
None of the boxes themselves have ever bound up.
Also, I'm talking about white and red oak, mostly. 
YMMV.
Gene


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## The Everyman Show (Jul 10, 2009)

Thanks for the advice Gene. I'll post some pics when I'm all done. It is taking shape pretty well so far.

Thanks, John.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*1/8" total for drawers and fronts*

That will give a theoretical 1/16" all of the way around. Some of that will be lost if you use a hard finish like urethane or lacquer.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I like to subtract 5/32" from the finished opening to get my doors and drawer fronts. But sometimes I use 3/16". I like the look of the smaller margin. But using European hinges it can be close.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Leo G said:


> I like to subtract 5/32" from the finished opening to get my doors and drawer fronts. But sometimes I use 3/16". I like the look of the smaller margin. But using European hinges it can be close.



Is that your final answer?:smile: I think the thrust of the thread was stated in the first line:* This may sound like a stupid question, but how much room/clearance should I allow for wood drawers inside a wood cabinet?*. I didn't get the impression he was talking about doors or drawer fronts.

So, are the dimensions you gave related to the spacing of a wood drawer box in a wood cabinet, without slides, but using a wood to wood method?


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## The Everyman Show (Jul 10, 2009)

Yes you are correct Cabinetman. Wooden drawer box inside a wooden cabinet using wood on wood. Incidentally Tony brings up a good point, I will not be applying any finish to the drawers themselves, perhaps only to wax the inside surfaces.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

For the size of drawers you are building I would go with 1/16 clearance on sides, top, and bottom. If I was building larger drawers I would increase the clearance to allow for contraction and expansion.

Gerry


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Why push the box sizes. Make them a 1/8" smaller on each side and use a wooden rail slide and a dado in the side of the box. Make the tolerance around 1/32" for each side. Screw the slide rails in and if for some reason it the drawer expands beyond it you can remove the rail and make it a bit thinner.


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## Chiefwoodworker (Jul 17, 2008)

It depends on the type of mahagany. If it is African or Honduran a 7 1/4" wide board will only move about 1/32" annualy in your area of the country, provide that the current moisture content is between the limits for your area (i.e. its MC has reached equilibrium). If it is Philippine makogany it will move about 1/16" annualy. 3/32" should be more than enough. You can probably get away with 1/16".


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