# Uncommon Miter



## ShaunT (Mar 21, 2016)

I do not have a lot of experience in Joining odd angles. I have a step I want to trim with Bullnose Stair nosing, but I have an issue on the exposed corner. it is a combination of a 44 degree angle separated by about 5 inches and another 44 degree angle. 


I know what you are thinking, 44 + 44 = 88, not 90 degrees. This is where it gets tricky (for me!). SO I thought that I would split the 44 down the middle and get a 22 degree angle and put in a 9 7/8 inch flat end piece and join it on the other side with another 22 degree piece to finish the corner off. WRONG! As you (experts) probably already know that this was a disaster.


I got the angles to meet (not perfectly), but the middle piece didi not extend through the backside of the stair nosing.


If you could have mercy on me and provide me the direction that I need it would be greatly appreciated. I provided pictures so that you know what I am dealing with.


Thank you in advance for your input.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Sorry, but I have no idea what you are talking about. Maybe more pics, sketches or someone other than my self that understands exactly what you are trying to do. 
hand drawn sketches would be ok.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Is that picture meant to represent the top view of the stair tread? So your stair has two corners on the front edge(s)?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*sounds easy ...*

I donno, but all your angles need to be 22 degrees on each end and on the center piece. Try that and see if it works out.:smile3: Cut the center piece "long" ,and fit it between the two other ends ...


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## ShaunT (Mar 21, 2016)

This is the view from the top of the stair tread. 

All I want to do is cut the miters on the stair nose to wrap the corner. The problem that I am having is matching the miters so that the front and the back match.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*your angles are not 44 degrees*

An angle of 44 degrees is acute, kinda like 45 degrees or half of 90. Your angles are obtuse or more than 90 degrees. So without the proper measurement of the angle you can't get the proper results. I'd say just by guessing, with a protractor on the photo, the angle is about 136 degrees . So the miter angle you need is 68 degrees on each piece. 

Then if you are setting a miter saw, you'll need a 22 off of 0 .


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## ShaunT (Mar 21, 2016)

*six to one*



woodnthings said:


> An angle of 44 degrees is acute, kinda like 45 degrees or half of 90. Your angles are obtuse or more than 90 degrees. So without the proper measurement of the angle you can't get the proper results. I'd say just by guessing, with a protractor on the photo, the angle is about 136 degrees . So the miter angle you need is 68 degrees on each piece.
> Then if you are setting a miter saw, you'll need a 22 off of 0 .




woodnthings,
thank you for your reply, but what you are saying is 'six to one, half a dozen to the other'. 180 degrees minus 136 degrees = 44 degrees. It is just the other side of the 90 (degrees).

I finally figured the issue out which is really embarrassing. I was measuring on the inside edge of the stair nosing, not on the rabbet. Since the rabbet rides the edge of the step I should have measured the stair nosing on the rabbet. Forgive me if it is not called a rabbet. It only cost 75 dollars in red oak stair nosng for a 57" piece at HD. Ugh! 

BTW - 22.5 Degrees was on the money! Obviously I need to up grade my miter gauge to a bigger bevel or bigger miter gauge.

Thank you all for trying to help me figure this out. I am really impressed with the talent and knowledge on this forum. I will be sure to visit weekly.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Well it looks like it turned out just fine!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If 22.5 degrees worked then the angles were 45 degrees instead of 44.


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## ShaunT (Mar 21, 2016)

Sanchez,
I do not know if I am uniquely an idiot or I just let miters intimidate me, but like you said it worked out. Thanks for your input. 
Just being able to talk it out with people that have the knowledge really helps.


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## ShaunT (Mar 21, 2016)

Steve,


Absolutely right! The reason that I thought it was 44 degrees instead of 45 degrees was because the tool that I used to measure the angle was only 3" on the base line and 3 inches on the vertical line. As you know, home construction is not a pristine environment where a 45 degree angle carries across a step or wall. I think I will be purchasing a Bevel Protractor this weekend. Any suggestions on a good T-bevel/bevel protractor that is at least 5" - 6" across both lines?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I use this one*

It's from :
http://www.ptreeusa.com/layout_protractor.htm

*








8" Digital Protractor*








The Wixey Digital Protractors can be used in any plane.


0.1 degree resolution, accuracy, and repeatability
Sets both miter and bevel angles on almost any machine
Strong magnets on all blade edges for ease of use
Blades can be tightened for holding measurements
2" wide X 7/8" thick X 9" long
Long legs for added versatility
Measure work-piece or construction angles
Use for marking and layout
 *Range:*​ +/- 180 degrees *Resolution:*​ 0.1 degrees *Accuracy:*​ +/- 0.1 degrees *Repeatability :*​ +/- 0.1degrees *Battery:*​ type 3.0V CR2032 *Function:*​ Auto shutoff for ext


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I believe this is what I use. http://www.harborfreight.com/multipurpose-angle-finder-1028.html The one I have is black though and one side of it is about 12" long and the other is 24". I think they cropped the picture to where the whole thing doesn't show.


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## Woodyhoots (Mar 21, 2016)

The easiest way I find to do this is to offer a piece of nosing up that goes past your inside mitre point by a few inches and draw a line either side of the nosing, u could do this on the floor up against the riser using tape. Then do the same on the adjoining riser so the lines u drew either side of your nosing ( or any parallel piece of wood for that matter) intersect creating a diamond shape then draw a straight line between the points of the diamond extending it a few inches. Then use your sliding bevel to transfer the angles to your nosing. You don't need any angle finders for this method I think it's called dissecting an angle or it could be bisecting, can't remember. I hope this is understandable because when you get it, it really is dead easy.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Bisecting an angle*

After you bisect the angle you still need to transfer that angle to a setting on your saw OR try to match a scribed line by trial and error. An adjustable angle "gizmo" or bevel gauge will work for that if you don't want to invest in a digital angle gauge.










http://www.onlinemathlearning.com/angle-bisector.html


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Regardless of the tools one has it's always best to either leave the trim long or use some scrap wood and test the miters before you cut a finished part.


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## Woodyhoots (Mar 21, 2016)

In the uk we call that a sliding bevel which I said you would need to transfer the lines. I've noticed a lot of different terms to what we use across The pond. You say rabbet we say rebate, you say jointer we say surface planer a planer here is a thickness planer. Tamato tomato.


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## Woodyhoots (Mar 21, 2016)

Oh and I never said gizmo.


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