# [jaysen's Build Thread]: Built-in Entertainment Center



## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

Long time lurker, first time poster! I've been admiring some of the projects and craftsmanship on these boards and they are truly a work of art! I felt it was time to take a dive in to the deep end, head first.

So without further adieu... welcome to my build thread! Over the course of the next couple weeks/months - hopefully not too long - I'll be updating my progress with comments, issues, concerns, and most importantly pictures of my built-in.

A little background; home was purchased new in 2007 in sunny Southern California. For the past 5 years, I've been putting off the media niche/entertainment center and taking on other projects. My fiance is finally fed up and ordered me to complete it by years end. Not including the other media niche down below... That'll be another thread.

This will be my first big woodworking project but feel I can easily accomplish it with the right tools, patience and most importantly guidance from this community!

This media niche is located in our Master Bedroom and carries the following dimensions;

Length - 122 1/2" 
Depth - 22 1/2"
Height - 83 1/2"

I was planning on creating this in sketchup but it has been a while since I used it, and figured I'd resort to the old fashion way before hand to just get a rough idea of what I want or most importantly what the fiance wants...

Being this is my first build, I wanted to keep the lines as simple as possible, while still looking elegant. Finish is still to be determined, however we are leaning more towards painting (white). 

Functionality and organization is my theme. The room is relatively large however due to the size of the entertainment center we wanted to incorporate drawers for clothing/socks/etc... My initial thoughts were to create six boxes/carcass joining with hidden pocket screws.

Looking for input on material - I considered using birch ply with beadboard backing and pine or poplar for the face frame. I haven't taken a trip to my Lumber yard so I am not too sure what's available there and its cost. 

To be continued...


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

You have a lot of space there to work with, looking forward to seeing this come together.


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## GroovyMambo (Jun 10, 2012)

Since you'll be painting the built in unit there is no need to use hardwood ply. You can use 3/4 inch MDF which is cheap and smooth so it's easy to paint. For the face frame you can use any decorative molding you want. Watch some youtube videos on building builtins and you'll see that although the project is large it is not too difficult.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Well it looks like you are off to a good start. I believe I would make your faceframe to where it would overlap the opening and just let the box slide into the niche. Then make the box a little less deep so you can run the wires behind the cabinet. The upper section on each side I believe I would make adjustable shelves. Also the center section base instead of making doors I believe I would make large drawers to hold DVD's and CD's. As far as material, poplar is more resistant to damage but if you think it won't be abused pine will be fine. Poplar is cheaper at wholesale lumber companies but more expensive at the box stores. If you are working largely by yourself I would probably use the birch plywood because it is much lighter. Just make sure you don't use Chinese plywood. It is bad to warp and delaminate. MDF when you get it in place works fine but working with it is heavy as lead. You may also experience more problems over time with shelves sagging using MDF than if you used plywood. You could always make the verticle parts with MDF and make the shelves out of plywood. It all paints good but MDF will need to be sanded before it is finished. It normally has a resin on the surface that doesn't paint well but is easily sanded off.


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

ftk said:


> You have a lot of space there to work with, looking forward to seeing this come together.


Yes I do! very eager to get started...



GroovyMambo said:


> Since you'll be painting the built in unit there is no need to use hardwood ply. You can use 3/4 inch MDF which is cheap and smooth so it's easy to paint. For the face frame you can use any decorative molding you want. Watch some youtube videos on building builtins and you'll see that although the project is large it is not too difficult.


Yeah, I've been checking out youtube videos and what not to.



Steve Neul said:


> Well it looks like you are off to a good start. I believe I would make your faceframe to where it would overlap the opening and just let the box slide into the niche. Then make the box a little less deep so you can run the wires behind the cabinet. The upper section on each side I believe I would make adjustable shelves. Also the center section base instead of making doors I believe I would make large drawers to hold DVD's and CD's. As far as material, poplar is more resistant to damage but if you think it won't be abused pine will be fine. Poplar is cheaper at wholesale lumber companies but more expensive at the box stores. If you are working largely by yourself I would probably use the birch plywood because it is much lighter. Just make sure you don't use Chinese plywood. It is bad to warp and delaminate. MDF when you get it in place works fine but working with it is heavy as lead. You may also experience more problems over time with shelves sagging using MDF than if you used plywood. You could always make the verticle parts with MDF and make the shelves out of plywood. It all paints good but MDF will need to be sanded before it is finished. It normally has a resin on the surface that doesn't paint well but is easily sanded off.


Thank you for the recommendations... I was thinking the same regarding adjustable and I may just leave the bottom center box doorless as you suggested.


I've got roughly another 2 weeks of planning and material/tools gathering until this thread really comes alive!


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

Small update;


Entertainment center got pushed back a couple weeks - wife wanted me to make a bed and bookshelf for my little one.

Here are some pics - tried a new "technique" I read about online for a driftwood look


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Those look good man!


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## robhodge1 (Feb 14, 2011)

jaysen said:


> Here are some pics - tried a new "technique" I read about online for a driftwood look



Please share this new technique! My SO is wanting our girls to have a beach theme bedroom and this driftwood look would work great!


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

On my iPhone At the moment but check the finishes forum I've got a thread there


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## robhodge1 (Feb 14, 2011)

jaysen said:


> On my iPhone At the moment but check the finishes forum I've got a thread there


Thanks, will do!


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## dmike (Oct 8, 2012)

subscribing, this is going to be great!


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## marcssteve (Oct 15, 2012)

jaysen said:


> Long time lurker, first time poster! I've been admiring some of the projects and craftsmanship on these boards and they are truly a work of art! I felt it was time to take a dive in to the deep end, head first.
> 
> So without further adieu... welcome to my build thread! Over the course of the next couple weeks/months - hopefully not too long - I'll be updating my progress with comments, issues, concerns, and most importantly pictures of my built-in.
> 
> ...


Hi jaysen, You have given great information, According to me this all information are very use for every people who want to make own Entertainment Center in own dream house, So thanks for share this all information.


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

...I'm back!

Sorry to those that were expecting rapid progress on my build thread... Unfortunately, I got side track early with the bed and other things and kinda forgot about the project completely. With the New Year, my 'revolution' (AT&T commercial) is to complete this build, even if it kills me!

So here's what I've got so far in sketchup. The left and right bottom cabinet will hold 6 dressers - two small sock/underwear drawers and four larger clothing drawers. I originally designed it with two 50" dressers on each side and the center box sitting lower to accommodate my current 56" DLP. I scratched that idea because i couldn't visualize how it would look...

I'm confused right now how to do my face frames and how to calculate the drawer sizes. I've been looking at many ideas and like bits and pieces from different ones. The photo below is probably my favorite out of all that i've viewed.

Any input?

EDIT:
I've added a 2nd model... I've been thinking, maybe I do want taller dressers instead. So here's a model with 50" dressers on the left and right (without backing). Cabinet above and in the center will be adjustable with doors similar to the picture I've attached.


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## ssgtjoenunez (Jan 14, 2014)

I'm really digging the bed and bookshelf!


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

For what it's worth, I much prefer the second design. It's simpler and clean but provides a fair number of options for what can be done with the spaces. It will also require significantly less material and will be easier to build, saving you time and money. Win win.

EDIT: I might suggest adding one layer below the tv spot for components like DVD player, etc. Something that can be closed in but provides easy access (at the right height) should you want that. Also the photograph shows two armoire sections in that built-in that are specifically designed for hanging clothes. If you want that, you're going to need to make some mods to your design. 

One last suggestion. Make your drawer carcasses out of aromatic cedar and protect your clothing cheaply and easily.


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

frankp said:


> For what it's worth, I much prefer the second design. It's simpler and clean but provides a fair number of options for what can be done with the spaces. It will also require significantly less material and will be easier to build, saving you time and money. Win win.
> 
> EDIT: I might suggest adding one layer below the tv spot for components like DVD player, etc. Something that can be closed in but provides easy access (at the right height) should you want that. Also the photograph shows two armoire sections in that built-in that are specifically designed for hanging clothes. If you want that, you're going to need to make some mods to your design.
> 
> One last suggestion. Make your drawer carcasses out of aromatic cedar and protect your clothing cheaply and easily.


Frank,

Thanks for your opinion! Question for you; is the cedar sold in ply sheets? or planks/boards?

I'll have to see if my local yard carries it, or can order if not.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

jaysen, you can buy it as tongue and groove paneling (even in the big box stores) and you can buy rough cut or finished lumber at some (most??) lumber yards. I've never seen it as sheet goods but I suspect it's out there somewhere.


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

Ok... So I'm a little stumped and have a few questions for the 'pros'


I've decided i'm going to try and replicate the style in the photo I've attached. I do not want to hang clothes since we have a closet already, so I will replace the armoires in the picture with two 50" tall dressers on each side containing 4 drawers in each (similar to the picture). For the center cabinet, I will do adjustable shelving with doors (similar to the cabinet above the armoires). For the center cabinet above the TV I am still undecided, but will figure something out eventually...

With all that said here is what I'm confused on;

What does everyone think the thickness is of the face frame in the picture? 2 1/2" ? The top rail looks to be about 4" but the center rail (dresser) and bottom looks about 2 1/2" ... The Stile to the left and right of the armoire I'm guessing is also 2 1/2"

Now my next question; Which type of wood should I use for the face frame, considering I will be painting?

Thanks everyone so far... It is finally coming along. Once I figure out the above, I will probably have another week or so of fine tuning and then I'm going to take the plunge!


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

I can't imagine anyone making a face frame thicker than 3/4 inch. I'd dare say most are 1/2 inch. I think something inexpensive, like poplar would be fine, but ply might be an option as well, I think.


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

I would probably make my face frames 2". Only reason being is, its custom built and it keeps math simple. A whole lot easier to subtract 4" from 26.375 than subtracting 4.5 from 26.375. 

As for face frames and painting; I would use poplar. Inexpensive and paints up really nice. The carcasses of this project were ply and all of the face frames were poplar. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/built-bookcases-47762/ I was really please with how it turned out.


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

frankp said:


> I can't imagine anyone making a face frame thicker than 3/4 inch. I'd dare say most are 1/2 inch. I think something inexpensive, like poplar would be fine, but ply might be an option as well, I think.


My improper use of the word... What is the _width_ of the face frames... 

Haha, I would never plan on using 2 1/2" _thick_ face frames!


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

Sorry for the lack of updates, just been busy with work and life but the project is still slated to be completed.... by this year (haha).

ugh, someone help me out... i may just be over thinking this.

RE: my last uploaded sketchup does this look like how you (the professional / experienced woodworker) would build this out? or should I be building individual carcasses for every box - dresser and cabinets? Also, im confused as to how to tackle the Face Frame with this project. any input would be great! I wanna start building by beginning of May if time permits.

And one last questions re: the doors What kind are they?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jaysen said:


> Sorry for the lack of updates, just been busy with work and life but the project is still slated to be completed.... by this year (haha).
> 
> ugh, someone help me out... i may just be over thinking this.
> 
> ...


A few things to consider. Unless you really like inset (flush) doors, I would suggest making them overlay, and use euro hinges (unless you want the visible hinge effect). You might think about making the cabinets frameless. With overlay doors, the faceframe doesn't show when the doors are closed, and that would save you money and time not having to make them. Being frameless, you can use standard (cabinet wall mount) hinges, which IMO are better than face frame mount. Drawers are easier to install without having to clear faceframes.

I would make separate boxes, and without pocket screws. They will be easier to handle and move around. I was never an advocate of building in place unless there was no alternative. 

Using plywood instead of MDF would yield less weight to handle, provide for better joinery, and hold screws and other hardware. As for planning the openings, positioning the TV is important to be viewed while in bed. As for the other openings, make a list of what you want to store, and plan from there. 








 








.


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## Firefighter4Cy (Apr 9, 2014)

Definitely interested on how this comes together. The bed and shelf look amazing!


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

Need some help... I am trying to figure out how i should build the carcasses for the photo i've attached. Opinions? This is what i've come up with


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I would build them with a dado for the bottom and shelf. A groove for the top and backs. Drill for adjustable shelf pins before glue up. 3/4 ply for carcass.


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## pry2877 (Feb 5, 2014)

I would dado all the outer shells then glue and nail together to make the boxes. For the left and right shells I would look into using adjustable shelves, that also leaves the option to add more shelves or take away shelves depending on space requirements. If these are designed to fit very snug into the wall then I wouldn't worry about a dadoed center shelf, if its not then I would put one in to keep the sides from bowing out over time. The center looks like its in two sections. I would dado all joints on both sections to make is sturdy for the TV.

This looks amazing and cannot wait to see it done. I really with I had that space to work with in my house. good luck!


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

Lets try this again... YES, it's been 7 years since I first posted and have not gotten around to building. :vs_laugh:

I am truly committed to finishing this year, even IF it kills me! I am actually much further along than I ever was. I have scheduled vacation from work planned (2 weeks) to complete this, finished my sketchup, cutlist, and face frame! I have demo'd the area; removed carpet/baseboard.

I just want one last look over from the pros. How does my sketchup look? I opt'd against a 2x4 base and decide to just incorporate my toe kick into the design - thoughts? I will dado the armoire shelf, pocket screw non-visible joints, hardwood for face frame - 3 1/2" rail at bottom, 2" stiles for armoire and dresser, and 1 1/2" rail/stile for TV enclosure.

Doors will be inset/flush to face frame, exposed hinges - i know much more difficult, but we like the style. 

TV cutout made to accommodate 55" LCD TV (max 50"x 30" in size) with tilting mount 


Anyone see any issues? concerns? comments? suggestions? 

Dimensions mentioned in the earlier (from 7 years ago :vs_laugh post, but here they are again;

Length - 122 1/2" 
Depth - 22 1/2"
Height - 83 1/2"

I have sketchup model I can share if anyone is interested in really taking a deeper dive!


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

Just a comment on the toe kick. If you make a base you can level it and that way, assure all the cabinets on top will come out how you want. If you build each cabinet separately and the floor isn’t level, then installation will become more difficult. Base doesn’t have to be 2x4’s, can be made out scrap.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

*jaysen*



Terry Q said:


> Just a comment on the toe kick. If you make a base you can level it and that way, assure all the cabinets on top will come out how you want. If you build each cabinet separately and the floor isn’t level, then installation will become more difficult. Base doesn’t have to be 2x4’s, can be made out scrap.
> 
> 
> In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


Terry, 

Thanks for the suggestion... I cannot remember (when designing in sketchup) why I decided to opt out of a base (albeit 2x4, or whatever)... however I am now reconsidering after some thought. Thanks.


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## NVwoodworker (Jun 10, 2018)

I'm with Terry Q on the base. I gave up using integral bases for cabinets years ago. A separate base (I use 3/4 plywood scraps) is easier to install level. Then the boxes sit level on the bases with no muss/ no fuss.

You may want to make the frame behind the TV a little wider so the opening is completely hidden by the TV. 

Are you planning to install the face-frame after the boxes? I typically install FFs in the shop, before installation (but many ways to skin this cat) and either: 1. use a "scribe mold" to fit to the walls, or (usually) 2. Leave part of the FF as a "knock-down" -- i.e. unattached-- in order to allow a scribe-fit.

You'd be wise to check your walls for plumb, and your floor and soffit for level. Wider frame parts hide more discrepancies than narrower ones. Walls are never plumb and straight.

Overall, looks like you're on the right track. I'm sure it will be great.


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## jaysen (Sep 26, 2012)

As promised, here is my update!

Still need to make my drawers, fronts, and armoire doors. Started the project at the beginning of June and it took me about 4 solid weekends to get to where I'm at. 

I quickly remembered how much I despise painting/staining (not this project)... Or shall I say finishing

Anyway, need some help. Like mentioned I will be starting on the drawer fronts and doors. I want to mimic the style from my inspiration photo. They appear to be shaker style with a smaller inset piece can anyone provide some advice on the easiest way to make something similar? Router bit, or thin rectangular pieces glued and stapled?


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