# Question to all swayers out there...



## mdeiley (Jul 4, 2007)

I have just picked up an old Western Sawyer sawmill. It seams to be a decent mill but I have a question about lubrication. It has a gravity feed water bottle to aide in chip, pitch and debree removal. Is it mandatory to keep water flowing on the cut? My vertical bandsaw requires no water. Any input is always appreciated. Also is there anyone who can direct me to new guide bushings. These are micarta and are worn on one side. I was able to take out and spin but would like a back up set. Thanks again.


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## joasis (Sep 15, 2006)

There will always be a debate on whether you must use lube on the blade, or what constitutes a good mix. I use Amway soap and water on my small mill, and it does help. I know from doing it both ways that lube is necessary.

As for the bushings, do a keyword search for guide bushings and micarta and see what comes up. Good luck!


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

I mill 90% hardwoods on my bandmill and rarely use lube. The circumstances dictate if I do, if I am sawing dirty logs I use water and really pour it on to keep from fouling the blade (some logs are dirty _inside _that I mill).I will use a mild soap solution on sappy softwoods like some pines. The pitch will build up on the blade without it.


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## mdeiley (Jul 4, 2007)

What kind of circumstance dictates using water with soap? Shouldn't you get more life from your blades using it? I will be cutting mainly Oak and Maple (soft) I also am in sandy soil and it is amazing how much sand the logs suck up. Also not to change the subject but I also have seen some of your posts Daren and I too enjoy the look of burls and figure. I know where there is a great deal of burls that I will be harvesting. When you cut them should they be waxed to keep them green or do you let them dry? Thanks again all.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

mdeiley said:


> (*#1*)What kind of circumstance dictates using water with soap? (*#2*)Shouldn't you get more life from your blades using it? I will be cutting mainly Oak and Maple (soft) I also am in sandy soil and it is amazing how much sand the logs suck up. Also not to change the subject but I also have seen some of your posts Daren and I too enjoy the look of burls and figure. I know where there is a great deal of burls that I will be harvesting. (*#3*)When you cut them should they be waxed to keep them green or do you let them dry? Thanks again all.


*#1 *Sappy woods, you'll know, trust me *#2 *oak and soft maple cut like butter, no lube needed (for me) hickory,osage,ash...then I would start thinking about it. Blade life ? Lube all you want, one nail kinda tips the equation against you , I'm an urban logger 20% of my blades "go dull" from sawing wood. The majority die a more abrupt and noisy end, know what mean? *#3 *This is about as vague an answer is you will ever get, sorry but that is a big question. It depends on species/market...I have been at this a little while, know my fair share about wood species and characteristics and I still flip a coin. Burls are an abnormality. Let me try to put this the best I can, figure on ruining $1000 worth for every $10 you market...unless you get to know one species very well and it habits (redbud for me). Then after you do that learn another. Sounds stupid, but it ain't like cutting dimensional lumber. There is no market standard for size/moisture content/appearance/price, it is a very niche market. My honest advice would be let the burls grow, saw yourself some lumber and try to find a market for the burls and saw for them as they ask...don't saw burl and then try to find the market :no:


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## mdeiley (Jul 4, 2007)

Again you all are very informative and it is a great pleasure being able to freely benifit from others experiance. I do thank you. 

Mike


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## Kirk Allen (Nov 7, 2006)

Some great input from everyone.

I use water and pine sol on my system. White oaks have a tendancy to have more pitch build up than red oak and like Daren mentioned, you will know when to use it, especially with softwoods. 

My current job is resawing 10,800 BF of old salavaged heart pine from a wharehouse in NY. Even that 200 year old stuff is full of pitch and if it were not for my solution it would build up super fast on the blade. 

I use a drip on just about everything as without it I can see the tension drop on my gauge from the small amount of heat build up. A small drip tends to keep the blade temp more consistant as is evident on the tension gauge.


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## Kirk Allen (Nov 7, 2006)

Forgot to mention, Cooks Saw has some great replacement parts and is a good source of knowledge and aftermarket parts. 

www.cooksaw.com


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