# Joining 2x2 to 1x6



## Martina (Oct 6, 2021)

Hello, everyone! I'm in the process of building a simple bed frame and need to join a 2x2 to a 1x12 (see image). The 1x12 will serve as the side rail, whereas the 2x2 will be used to secure the wooden support slats. I would like to keep the finished side of the 1x12 free of screw heads since it will be visible. My initial thoughts are to use wood glue, 2" nails that are driven through the 2x2 and into the 1x12, and perhaps some L-brackets. I was wondering though if there is a better/proper way to accomplish this task? Thanks in advance for all forthcoming responses.


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## NoNails (Jun 6, 2016)

Wood screws & TiteBond III will attach the 2x2 sufficiently. I would ask that you step back and reconsider the 1x6 as you're really dealing with 3/4" thickness, it would probably suffice for the vertical dead load of the mattress and a couple of people, but pitch in some lateral force (activity) will accelerate failure.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Having the head of a screw in the thick side of a joint is generally poor form, usually you want the head in the "to be attached" side, with the actual threads going into the "anchor" side, with the anchor side being the thicker piece. More threads in the piece means more holding power, which is why you want the threads to be in the thicker piece

All that said, in this circumstance that doesnt really matter, since the glue will be providing the majority of the strength. Make sure you get a solid glue joint and youll be fine. Id ditch the angle brackets, they wouldnt agg much in strength anyways. Instead, id recommend adding in some dowels, to give the joint a bit of extra shear strength. Screws dont actually add much shear strength, theyre meant more for tensile strength, but a solid 1/2" dowel running all the way through the 2"x2" and halfway into the 1"x6" will make sure that the loaded member wont suddenly give up the ghost


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## Martina (Oct 6, 2021)

NoNails said:


> Wood screws & TiteBond III will attach the 2x2 sufficiently. I would ask that you step back and reconsider the 1x6 as you're really dealing with 3/4" thickness, it would probably suffice for the vertical dead load of the mattress and a couple of people, but pitch in some lateral force (activity) will accelerate failure.


Thank you for your prompt reply and feedback. Upon reading your response, I realized that I had posted the wrong size (so much for proofreading). The side rails are actually 1x12s, not 1x6s. I already edited my post above, but wanted to clarify that. I chose the 1x12s in order to fully conceal the height of the box springs, 2x2s, and wooden slats. It's a perfect match. With regards to the load concern, I should add that each wooden slat is individually supported by three 4x4s. In essence, the support system will consist of 4 wooden slats each supported by three 4x4s for a total of 12. I think/hope that that would sufficiently support the weight of the box springs, mattress, and two adults. The 2x2s are merely intended to secure the ends of the wooden slats on each side, so that they don't shift when there is movement above. I hope this makes sense. If you still think there is a concern with regards to the load issue, please let me know as I'd rather make changes now than having the whole thing fall apart on us in the middle of the night. LOL! Thanks again!


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## Martina (Oct 6, 2021)

epicfail48 said:


> Having the head of a screw in the thick side of a joint is generally poor form, usually you want the head in the "to be attached" side, with the actual threads going into the "anchor" side, with the anchor side being the thicker piece. More threads in the piece means more holding power, which is why you want the threads to be in the thicker piece
> 
> All that said, in this circumstance that doesnt really matter, since the glue will be providing the majority of the strength. Make sure you get a solid glue joint and youll be fine. Id ditch the angle brackets, they wouldnt agg much in strength anyways. Instead, id recommend adding in some dowels, to give the joint a bit of extra shear strength. Screws dont actually add much shear strength, theyre meant more for tensile strength, but a solid 1/2" dowel running all the way through the 2"x2" and halfway into the 1"x6" will make sure that the loaded member wont suddenly give up the ghost


Thank you so much for your reply and input. Great idea on the dowels! I'll definitely look into that as I'm not that fond of using L-brackets either. Indeed, it would be so much easier to just join the two pieces with the screw entering the 1x12 and then ending in the 2x2, but that would leave me with some undesirable holes, which I'm really trying to avoid. Granted, I can fill or plug them, but I'd prefer the clean look, if at all possible. Thanks again for your feedback!


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

epicfail48 said:


> Having the head of a screw in the thick side of a joint is generally poor form, usually you want the head in the "to be attached" side, with the actual threads going into the "anchor" side, with the anchor side being the thicker piece. More threads in the piece means more holding power, which is why you want the threads to be in the thicker piece
> 
> All that said, in this circumstance that doesnt really matter, since the glue will be providing the majority of the strength. Make sure you get a solid glue joint and youll be fine. Id ditch the angle brackets, they wouldnt agg much in strength anyways. Instead, id recommend adding in some dowels, to give the joint a bit of extra shear strength. Screws dont actually add much shear strength, theyre meant more for tensile strength, but a solid 1/2" dowel running all the way through the 2"x2" and halfway into the 1"x6" will make sure that the loaded member wont suddenly give up the ghost


That screw is just for support.. He could just dowel but the screws arent hurting anything...


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Rebelwork said:


> That screw is just for support.. He could just dowel but the screws arent hurting anything...


Dont recall ever saying that the screws were hurting anything, just that they didnt help. In fact, if you actually read my response youll notice i never even suggested _not_ using the screws, just ditching the L brackets and adding dowels for extra strength


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## johnedp34 (Jun 30, 2016)

This is where I would use pocket holes and glue.
johnep


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

You could place an angled screw from the bottom edge of the plank into the 2x2. You can also cover screw holes with a moulding strip.

In this case a screw straight into the 2x2 every 8“ or so, covered by a flat moulding or similar. Make a design feature by mitering around the perimeter, rather than just a plain Jane plank?


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

My wife had a bed made like this and it held up fine. Her dad made it for her before we met and it was just screwed together with drywall screws. No glue. It was slathered in polyurethane, and that stuck things together like an sob...


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

I agree that the 2x2 will be held just fine with just glue. However, the addition of screws will hold it in place until the glue dries and add some measure of strength. I can't tell from your photo but it appears that your 2x2 may be some type of soft wood. If so, I would change that to a hardwood similar to your 1x12. 
I think what NoNails was pointing out is that side rails tend to sometimes bow outward allowing the slats to slip off of the 2x2 ledger. My suggestion would be to screw the ends of the center one or two slats down to the 2x2 ledger. This will provide some rigidity to the side rail and help keep the slats in place.
Without more pictures, I'm not sure that I'm clear on what you propose to do with the 4x4s. However, if these will be running head to foot supporting the slats, I think they may be overkill and not necessary. Take a look at how your box springs are constructed. They are usually made to support the load of people on the bed and only need perimeter support; the exception being king size beds that frequently have center legs. Just something to consider.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Glue and screws through the 2x2 will make the side rails basically one solid piece, fasten the slats to the 2x2 and you should be good to go, my concern is how the 3/4" part of the rail is fastened to the head and foot of the bed.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I wouldnt just use glue. I used sqrews in mine and never had a problem..


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Martina said:


> Thank you so much for your reply and input. Great idea on the dowels! I'll definitely look into that as I'm not that fond of using L-brackets either. Indeed, it would be so much easier to just join the two pieces with the screw entering the 1x12 and then ending in the 2x2, but that would leave me with some undesirable holes, which I'm really trying to avoid. Granted, I can fill or plug them, but I'd prefer the clean look, if at all possible. Thanks again for your feedback!


OK, the slats are well supported on the 4 x 4's and the 2 x 2 rail.
BUT, how are the 1 X 12" side rails/panels attached to the leg posts?
This is THE most critical attachment of all.
All the weight is supported on the side panels and then transferred to the leg post, so you had better have strong joints there.
No discussion of those attachments, so far?
I needed to make new side panels for an antique bed and that required slotting the ends of them to accept the old style brackets.
No visible attachments that way:








Slotting the end of a bed rail for brackets


I had to remake a bed rail for and older 1936 bed. The attachment brackets were slotted in to the ends probably with a 6" dia saw blade. Well of course I double stacked a pair of 5 3/8"blades in my 18v Dewalt battery saw, stood the board on end clamped to my TS and tried to saw the slot from a...




www.woodworkingtalk.com


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I assume it's what the 2×2 is...I made my bed tthe same way...


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

I don't know what the OP intends to do but the 2x2 should only be for supporting the mattress and box springs. It shouldn't have anything to do with the end attachment. The OP didn't ask about that so...no comment.


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## Martina (Oct 6, 2021)

johnedp34 said:


> This is where I would use pocket holes and glue.
> johnep


Pocket holes would be ideal, but where exactly would you position those? I don't have any fancy carpentry tools- just a Kreg Jig.


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## Martina (Oct 6, 2021)

DrRobert said:


> You could place an angled screw from the bottom edge of the plank into the 2x2. You can also cover screw holes with a moulding strip.
> 
> In this case a screw straight into the 2x2 every 8“ or so, covered by a flat moulding or similar. Make a design feature by mitering around the perimeter, rather than just a plain Jane plank?


Thanks for your feedback, Robert! We like very clean and simple lines and I already built two matching nightstands, so moulding strips would not match the other pieces. But I do appreciate your input. Thank you!


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## Martina (Oct 6, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> OK, the slats are well supported on the 4 x 4's and the 2 x 2 rail.
> BUT, how are the 1 X 12" side rails/panels attached to the leg posts?
> This is THE most critical attachment of all.
> All the weight is supported on the side panels and then transferred to the leg post, so you had better have strong joints there.
> ...


I recently purchased a set of bed rail brackets that will secure the side rails to the head and foot boards (see picture). Thanks for posting your feedback though. Much appreciated!


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