# Bowl Sanding



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I know some guys power sand and some do it other ways. I have a few bowl blanks now (Thanks Robert!!) and will begin turning some bowls here very soon and wanted to find out the best way to go about sanding. Woodcraft has a Sorby bowl sander that to me looks like a velcro sanding pad on the end of a handle with a swivel in between. Anyhow, suggestions please.

Oh and if it makes a difference for power sanding, my lathes slow speed is 700 rpm's and I will not be turning any bowls over about 6".


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

goes both ways (thanks back at ya)
good sharp tools and correct presentation make all the difference in the world
but i end up doing lots of sanding
i use one like this
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2003740/33563/woodriver-new-wave-2-sanding-disc.aspx


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

A very good question. I have only done a handful of bowls, but it only takes one to realise sanding is a bowl is not easy.

It is possible to hand sand while turning, but the heat can be uncomfortable. DAMHIKT.

I looked at the Sorby item you mentioned, then decided to get this sander from Woodcraft.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2003740/9296/new-wave-2-bowl-sanding-kit.aspx

I use this sander with a cordless drill. I have the lathe turning at some speed in addition to the drill turning. This has worked for most areas of my bowls. I can see when the Sorby may be able to get in at an angle on hollow forms, or certain odd shapes. I have not been able to justify the Sorby expense.

I now purchase the replacement discs from Klingspor.
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/kd50054/

I have found it is easy to build up too much heat and the abrasive separates from the velcro, so be careful with the speed and pressure.

Since I did not like the "experience" of hand sanding due to the heat, and still find some curves/areas need to be hand sanded, I wanted to find something which can hold the sandpaper and not burn my hand.

I found the 3M sanding sponges do the trick.
http://www.shop3m.com/3m-sanding-sponges-misc.html

I am not fond of these to be use as abrasives, but I do like applying a piece of sandpaper over the sponge and then pushing the sponge into whatever shape needs to be sanded. I use this method for many turning items.

I hope this helps.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Bass,
I use one of those Sorby sanders like you mentioned. It works well, but the thing I don't like about it is you have to oil it when you use it. It has a brass bushing that the head turns in. You only put a drop on it, but you have to watch because it wants to come back out as you are using it. If you don't oil it, (like I have failed to do sometimes) it gets some play in it. If you use it properly, and follow the sequence of grits, it leaves a nice finish. 
Mike Hawkins


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

robert421960 said:


> good sharp tools and correct presentation make all the difference in the world


Yup, but I have all but given up on my bowl gouge. I have a nice one too, a Thompson, but for the life of me, I cant figure it out no matter how many videos I watch. I'm considering taking a bowl turning class just to learn how to use my gouge if I can ever find one available when I actually have time to attend. For now, its my trusty Rus carbide tool which works so well except I get that awful tear out in the end grain portions. I'm going to get my scrapers sharpened up and try some shear scraping too. Maybe that'll help.

Thanks for the sanding suggestions. I'm going to pick one of those wheels up for my drill next time I get up to WC.


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## pvechart (Dec 14, 2011)

Here is a good video link for power sanding even if they are only 6" bowls. 700 rpm might be to fast to do power sanding...they always say to turn the speed way down to sand...like 250 rpm or slower works best.


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## clpead (Oct 10, 2012)

robert421960 said:


> goes both ways (thanks back at ya)
> good sharp tools and correct presentation make all the difference in the world
> but i end up doing lots of sanding
> i use one like this
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2003740/33563/woodriver-new-wave-2-sanding-disc.aspx


That is similar to what I have. Just a different brand. Used it for the first time last night and my results were great. Made quick work of the tearout. I used it with 80 grit and then hand sanded 150-600. 

It's affordable and definitely worth trying. 

Aaron


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Well Ideally a bowl gouge proper used is the best way to go. However Richard Raffen does a great job finishing a bowl with a scraper. Not one of the carbide scrapers mind you but a regular scraper with a fresh burr. They cut cleaner than the carbide because the carbide scrapers aren't very sharper after a few uses. 
The Hunter carbide tools are different but then I use them as bevel rubbing tools rather than scrapers. I have not done a video on bowl gouge usage yet. I'm planning one but just haven't had time to do it. My video on the Hunter Osprey tools used as a bevel rubbing tool is used the same way I use the nose of a bowl gouge. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnFdDo0jxGU
Shear scraping is also a good way to get rid or tearout and tool marks. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oeiVQLeOd4
I haven't done a video on sanding yet either. I use a standard electric drill and sanding pads I get from www.vinceswoodnwonders.com also love his sanding discs.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Bass, 
you need to get together with a local turner for some hands on instruction. It's a lot easier when someone shows you. You can check at the AAW website to see if there is any local turning clubs in your area. The bowl gouge is a great tool, but you have to get used to it and understand how the cutting edges work. Another thing is to try and slow down, take small cuts, keep the tool under control, don't let the tool control you. 
Mike Hawkins


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

I have one of the Sorby type sanders and have not used it for years. The biggest problem is that near the center it is almost impossible to use due to the small radius. And once you remove the bowl from the lathe it is useless for cleaning up the foot.
Others make disc but for quality and price I don’t think you can beat Vinces. Most people use the Blue Flex pads and he has a starter kit. Most people use the 2” size (2-3/8).
Any power drill will work.
If you phone he will be glad to answer and questions. He does not offer a starter kit for the one inch but I phoned and he put one together for me (I didn’t want 50 of each grit). Just the ticket for when the base is less than 2.5 inches.
http://vinceswoodnwonders.com/store/

I did try both the CSUSA and WC before and the disc were horrible compared to Vinces.

I went back and compared. 
Vinces blue flex 2" 25 for $4.20 or 17 cents each.
Woodcraft 2" 5 for $3.19 or 64 cents each.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

I use the same Woodriver sanding disc kit that Robert and Dave told you about, in my cordless drill.

Sometimes I run the lathe, other times I turn it by hand so I can focus on areas that are particularly difficult.

Remember your drill probably has a reverse, it can sometimes make it less likely to skid off the edge of the bowl if you change direction. (Skidding off the edge always seems to leave a rut when it happens to me.)

Dibs on your Thompson bowl gouge if you decide you're going to give up on it ... :shifty:


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Well I use that little Velcro sanding pad with this or I similar combination but with no air. I just let it turn freely. I am no where near an expert but that's how I was taught and it works. I forgot I have a 2 and 3 inch versions with a straight and angled die grinders both were on sale or like $10 each when I got them.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Last night I remembered a tip in a woodworking magazine to make your own scalloped discs from the worn Random Orbit Sander discs. Cut out the centre at the middle of the hole pattern. The centre does not wear at the same rate as the outside.

I thought this was a potential way to get some extra use out of ROS discs. I have "inventory" but I have not tried this yet.


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## robsgotwood (Dec 14, 2012)

When sanding I normally don't need to go lower than 150 because I finish the details very slowly and carefully. Then 220,320,400,600,800 all hand sanding but I cut out a size right for each area.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

firehawkmph said:


> Bass,
> you need to get together with a local turner for some hands on instruction. It's a lot easier when someone shows you. You can check at the AAW website to see if there is any local turning clubs in your area. The bowl gouge is a great tool, but you have to get used to it and understand how the cutting edges work. Another thing is to try and slow down, take small cuts, keep the tool under control, don't let the tool control you.
> Mike Hawkins


 There is a local AAW club. Ive been in contact with them via email and plan to attend a meeting and probably join.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

BassBlaster said:


> There is a local AAW club. Ive been in contact with them via email and plan to attend a meeting and probably join.


I have to say, I'm not much of a "joiner" and don't have a huge amount of free time, but the monthly turning club meeting is something I make time for -- I always learn something.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

BassBlaster said:


> There is a local AAW club. Ive been in contact with them via email and plan to attend a meeting and probably join.


Sounds good Bass. Most of the club guys in the clubs are good and happy to teach and share. Have fun.
Mike Hawkins


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## Lanny0134 (Apr 21, 2012)

I can't add much because I've never turned a bowl but I ran across this article that had some good info.

http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/FoamBallSander/FoamBallSander.htm


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## Tambotie (Jan 7, 2012)

Bass 1 Contacting the club is the best move you have made in your turning endeavours . 2. Get your scrappers sharpened, set grinder rest at aprox 45 degrees and sharpen so simple. 3 The carbide tools are as far as I am concerned just scrappers and over rated. If that is the way turning is going so be it I will stay old school. 4 Hope your scrappers are HSS. 5 Remember finishing a piece can take longer than turning it.6 When using HSS scrappers as a finishing tool the trick is to take as fine a cut as possible this results in the sanding process starting at 150 or higher and no need for that 60 grit tool. Regards Tambotie


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## aerocustomsexotics (Jul 21, 2012)

Dropped $150 at Klingspore for a Sorby fingernail bowl gouge & carbide tipped hollow form tools. MONEY in the bank- man were they so worth the expense. I have been struggling hollowing out bowls with a spindle gouge because I was too cheap to buy a bowl gouge until I caught that dreaded catch. Learned real quick how dangerous what i was fooling with was way not smart. Snapped the HSS gouge in half, pulled hand into bowl & if not for the close toolrest to bowl I would have lost some fingers. This was on my new Nova lathe with way more power than my bench top Delta Midi. I did not use the Nova again until I got the right tool for the job. I will tell you the hollowing tool does a great finish on bowls with the round cutter in it. Even works for outside edges really fine cut.

I also purchased a used Ken McNaughton center saver- that thing scares the hell out of me when it grabs! I have not tried it on anything but a mesquite bowl I wanted to part off the cap with a straight edge. Time will tell if it works good for giving me me usable burl cores from larger turnings.

Bill


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

aerocustomsexotics said:


> Dropped $150 at Klingspore for a Sorby fingernail bowl gouge & carbide tipped hollow form tools. MONEY in the bank- man were they so worth the expense. I have been struggling hollowing out bowls with a spindle gouge because I was too cheap to buy a bowl gouge until I caught that dreaded catch. Learned real quick how dangerous what i was fooling with was way not smart. Snapped the HSS gouge in half, pulled hand into bowl & if not for the close toolrest to bowl I would have lost some fingers. This was on my new Nova lathe with way more power than my bench top Delta Midi. I did not use the Nova again until I got the right tool for the job. I will tell you the hollowing tool does a great finish on bowls with the round cutter in it. Even works for outside edges really fine cut.
> 
> I also purchased a used Ken McNaughton center saver- that thing scares the hell out of me when it grabs! I have not tried it on anything but a mesquite bowl I wanted to part off the cap with a straight edge. Time will tell if it works good for giving me me usable burl cores from larger turnings.
> 
> Bill


Bill,
you're very lucky you weren't hurt with that catch. I imagine your underwear didn't fare as well.:laughing: I watched Bill Grumbine at one of our club demos use a McNaughton coring tool. He made it look very easy. The whole thing is in the setup. If the tool rest is at the proper height, it only took two fingers to guide the tool. You might want to check utube for videos on the coring tools. Most of the specialty tools require proper setup and use, or they don't seem to work worth a darn.
Mike Hawkins


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