# Micro Adjuster for Router Table Fence



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I was going through a shop project list that I made awhile back and on my list I had a homemade Micro Adjuster for a router table fence. Only problem is that I can’t remember what it looked like or where I saw it. I thought I saw it on YouTube but I can’t find. All I can find is expensive store bought ones which I don’t want.

Anybody have plans for one?


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Sleeper said:


> I was going through a shop project list that I made awhile back and on my list I had a homemade Micro Adjuster for a router table fence. Only problem is that I can’t remember what it looked like or where I saw it. I thought I saw it on YouTube but I can’t find. All I can find is expensive store bought ones which I don’t want.
> 
> Anybody have plans for one?


Hi Johnny - you might try here
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jigs/shop-made-micro-adjustment-jig/

Good Luck :smile:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hi Johnny - you might try here
> http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jigs/shop-made-micro-adjustment-jig/
> 
> Good Luck :smile:


 Thanks John, it took me a few minutes to get the concept but that’s pretty cool. I was looking for something that has a knob to turn for the fine adjustment. I think that instead of gluing the top threaded rod, extend it out the back so that it can turn to make the adjustment instead of hopping along the threads.Just have to figure out how to keep it in place on top while turning.:smile:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Sleeper said:


> Thanks John, it took me a few minutes to get the concept but that’s pretty cool. I was looking for something that has a knob to turn for the fine adjustment. I think that instead of gluing the top threaded rod, extend it out the back so that it can turn to make the adjustment instead of hopping along the threads.Just have to figure out how to keep it in place on top while turning.:smile:


Hi Johnny - I apologize, I didn't open the pdf and look at the plan until after I posted it and then got tied up on something else. To be honest, I'm not overly impressed with that approach.

I have seen some that utilize an 8-32 male knob and a brass threaded insert but can't herd enough brain cells together to remember where. Seems like those just work on one end of the fence also. That's not really a bad thing, it eliminates needing to gang two adjustments together to make sure everything moves the same amount.
Good Luck, if I run across anything, I'll post it.:smile:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Is this the type of mechanism you are looking to build?

Pat Warner article in FWW.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/micro-adjustable-router-fence.aspx

Pat Warner's site.

http://www.patwarner.com/routerfence.html


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> Is this the type of mechanism you are looking to build?
> 
> Pat Warner article in FWW.
> 
> ...


I haven't seen either one of those, but the 1st is more like what I'm looking for.

If I remember correctly it works with any existing fence and just provideds a precise screw movement instead of over shooting the mark by trying to push the fence into place.

Actually now that I see how it works from the links you have I should be able to come up with something on my own. But thanks again at least now I have a good idea. :smile:


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

http://www.rockler.com/m/product.cfm?page=22490


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

jharris2 said:


> http://www.rockler.com/m/product.cfm?page=22490


:huh: Umm, I didn't want to buy one, but that's exactly what I want. LOL


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> :huh: Umm, I didn't want to buy one, but that's exactly what I want. LOL


I saw the Rockler one, but did not mention since you said you wanted to purchase. I think Rockler intend you use one of these each side, and the price is for one.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> I saw the Rockler one, but did not mention since you said you wanted to purchase. I think Rockler intend you use one of these each side, and the price is for one.


Thanks Dave, I've been thinking about it and I'm pretty sure I can make one now that I know exactly what it looks like. I could probably do that with a small cheap 'C' clamp from Harbor Freight. Just drill and tap a hole in it for a wing screw and I got one. :smile:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> Thanks Dave, I've been thinking about it and I'm pretty sure I can make one now that I know exactly what it looks like. I could probably do that with a small cheap 'C' clamp from Harbor Freight. Just drill and tap a hole in it for a wing screw and I got one. :smile:


I think you can make one. If you are only looking to push the fence, then consider a connector nut used to join two sections of threaded rod together. About 1in long, easy to clamp under the "C" clamp and save the time of drill and tapping.

If you make a U shaped box for behind the fence, you can have the threaded rod go through the bottom of the "U" and then drill a small hole for a cotter pin with washer behind. Lock nut on the other side and now you have a design which can pull as well as push. If you are not picturing this, it is the same idea as how the handles attach to a Black and Decker Workmate.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> I think you can make one. If you are only looking to push the fence, then consider a connector nut used to join two sections of threaded rod together. About 1in long, easy to clamp under the "C" clamp and save the time of drill and tapping.
> 
> If you make a U shaped box for behind the fence, you can have the threaded rod go through the bottom of the "U" and then drill a small hole for a cotter pin with washer behind. Lock nut on the other side and now you have a design which can pull as well as push. If you are not picturing this, it is the same idea as how the handles attach to a Black and Decker Workmate.


 Thanks I think using the connector nut sounds even better because it could be glued or fastened to a piece of wood and then clamped to the table. 
I think the one I was originally looking for was made out of wood and also used threaded rod, but I don’t remember the details. It may have actually used the connector nut as you mentioned. I know the base was long and clamped from the back, I guess anything from the sides would work equally well. 

I think only one is needed because router doesn’t necessarily need to be parallel with the table. so one end of the fence could be fixed and adjusted on the other end.


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> I think you can make one. If you are only looking to push the fence, then consider a connector nut used to join two sections of threaded rod together. About 1in long, easy to clamp under the "C" clamp and save the time of drill and tapping.
> 
> If you make a U shaped box for behind the fence, you can have the threaded rod go through the bottom of the "U" and then drill a small hole for a cotter pin with washer behind. Lock nut on the other side and now you have a design which can pull as well as push. If you are not picturing this, it is the same idea as how the handles attach to a Black and Decker Workmate.


Can you draw a picture for me:yes: I think I know what you are talking about but really suck at visualizing


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

mengtian said:


> Can you draw a picture for me:yes: I think I know what you are talking about but really suck at visualizing


Will do, just give me some time to put together. Just acknowledging I read the post.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> I think Rockler intend you use one of these each side, and the price is for one.


I use one of these on my secondary table. Only one is necessary.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/207/micro-adjuster.pdf


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

jharris2 said:


> http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/207/micro-adjuster.pdf


Aw yes! That's the one I remember and was looking for. I thought it had a long piece but this is the one. :thumbsup: Thanks


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Very happy to be of service!


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

mengtian said:


> Can you draw a picture for me:yes: I think I know what you are talking about but really suck at visualizing


I was going to do a sketch then decided on a quick prototype.

The Jharris2 style is easy, but it will only push the fence forward. If you push too far, then you have to unscrew, reset the fence and start to push again.

An alternate design is to be able to push or pull the fence. This needs the threaded rod/screw to be able to swivel at the end.

I mentioned a "U" to hold the end of the threaded rod/screw and allow space for the swivel. A very quick and easy swivel. Not pretty but functional.

This is a piece of scrap from the shop. Imagine this is one side of the "U".

I drilled a 3/32in hole in a piece of threaded rod, an offcut from another project.

I use a small hitch pin in the hole and a washer behind the hitch pin.









On the back side I used two nuts tightened against each other. The nuts would be adjusted to minimize slop/backlash, but not too tight since we need the rod to swivel.

I am showing a connection nut, also called coupler nut, just to provide more area for clamping or gluing.

I added a lock nut at the end. This is a nut with a plastic collar. Showing a rachet wrench in lieu of a knob.









I hope this helps you understand the suggestion.


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## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

I've surfed this thread and seen some goods and bads. Tomorrow I plan to design and build a small, accurate, cheap,
 2-way "micro-adjuster". Stay tuned.
Jimmy


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

durdyolman said:


> I've surfed this thread and seen some goods and bads. Tomorrow I plan to design and build a small, accurate, cheap,
> 2-way "micro-adjuster". Stay tuned.
> Jimmy


 Looking forward to it! I guess I’ll hold off a while to see what you come up with. :smile:


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

If you imbed a rare earth magnet in the back of the wood fence or epoxy it to a metal fence where the micro adjust bolt/nut contacts it, it will push and pull.

The Rockler MA I bought uses this method and works very well.

I'm surprised the ShopNotes plan didn't incorporate the magnet.

Good point Dave.


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## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

*As promised, boys and girls, here it is!!!*

But please see my comment at the end of this post.
.
.The micro adjustment for the router fence has been solved. Here.
I spent 2 beers thinking about this, and 2 more doing the work.
First I drilled a 1/4 hole in a piece of oak, (squared all around). Transferred the center line to the back of the fence. Installed a 1/4-20 insert into the back of the fence. (Epoxy to hold it solid).
The oak block has a 1/4-20 allthread going through it with 1/4 Stainless washers inside 1/4-20 elastic lock nuts. (All parts were "polished" on 400 grit to reduce drag.) I then made a fancy bloodwood knob just for sheets and giggles.






















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Now that we have all that solved,(to my satisfaction), let's see why we are doing this in the first place. I am almost 70 years old. My eyes are not what they used to be. But I can still see a fine pencil mark (.003") in the front of my router fence. If I need to make a .003" adjustment, just watch the pencil mark when you tap it with a small mallet. A .003" adjustment on 1 end of your fence will give you about .0015" at the bit. We are working wood here. Not aligning a steam turbine in a nuclear power plant. (Done that!). If you need a device as has been described afor, mayhaps you are in the wrong business/hobby. But on the other hand you have four fingers and a thumb.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Well I can see the mark but I want to fine tune it in because I sometimes hit it a little too hard and jump the mark and then have to bang it back again. It’s so much nicer to just dial it in especially when you have to move the fence multiple times. It’s not worth it for me to spend $23 on but to make it myself for a buck then I like it. :yes:


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> It's not worth it for me to spend $23 on but to make it myself for a buck then I like it. :yes:


For $23.00 and bought when I could get free shipping on my entire order it was well worth it.

Sometimes I build my own jigs and gadgets and sometimes I don't have the time or inclination.


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## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

*When things get really precise*

You can go this way. (.001")
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.Or if you are really getting into the thickness of air, you can try this. (.00015")
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.Much ado about nothing. If it moves too far when you tap it with the mallet, DON'T TAP IT SO HARD!!!
My dog's eyes are so crossed, she can see out of her ears!


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## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

*Supplemental*

I thought I would test the adjuster I made. So I trightened the fence down, installed 2 dial indicators, 1 in the middle, 1 even with the device. Loosened the fence turned the knob an estimated 1/2 turn, tightened the fence and got a +.025 on the end and +.012 in the middle. A full turn gave me .05 and .025. (Using 1/4-20 rod, 1 full turn = 1/20" = .050") Amazingly, using the elastic lock nuts eliminated ALL slop in turning the knob. If I watched the indicator, I could move the fence .001" at a time. It also works in reverse. I'm quite proud of this thing, but will probably never use it. I found that a gentle peck with the small plastic mallet CAN move the fence more than you might want. (Maybe I need a smaller pecker). A dial on the back of the adjuster and a pointer on the knob may help. Also finer threads on the rod.
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