# Help needed with saw cutting crooked base molding



## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

This is a problem that has been a thorn in my side with my Dewalt 12” double-bevel sliding compound miter saw for a long time, but it was such a small problem I never looked into it when doing general construction. But now that I am using it do do precision trim work it is a pain in the arse. 

For instance, I just got finished putting some base around some cabinetry and ever time I swivel my saw to cut 45's I have to bump the angle a half degree +/- for each side. I have put my machinist square on it and it is dead on plumb when on 90. It just baffles my mind that I have to tweak this thing every time I swing it.

Anyone have any similar problems or suggestions?

Thanks

Tim


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Bear: The first thing I would do is go get a GOOD blade. I personally really like Freud. Amana, Forrest, cmt all good ones. Freud seems to be easier to find. 
Then see what happens, your blade may be "pushing off" , slowing ur feed may help, so many variables very hard to pick one. 
Heck, it may be dirt builtup on the stops under the saw table. 1/2 degree plus or minus is not that bad speshully in wood :}:} 
If you have some Formica sample chips just slip one under the pc b4 u cut and do a micro back bevel may just may the problem disappear. LOL I use a low angle block plane and do that on every cut I make. To me easier than fussin with chips under the pc on the table.
PS: on every outside corner I always overcut by about 1 degree or so, 46 or 47 this way the face is always tighter than the rest of the cut


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

skymaster said:


> Bear: The first thing I would do is go get a GOOD blade. I personally really like Freud. Amana, Forrest, cmt all good ones. Freud seems to be easier to find.
> Then see what happens, your blade may be "pushing off" , slowing ur feed may help, so many variables very hard to pick one.
> Heck, it may be dirt builtup on the stops under the saw table. 1/2 degree plus or minus is not that bad speshully in wood :}:}
> If you have some Formica sample chips just slip one under the pc b4 u cut and do a micro back bevel may just may the problem disappear. LOL I use a low angle block plane and do that on every cut I make. To me easier than fussin with chips under the pc on the table.
> PS: on every outside corner I always overcut by about 1 degree or so, 46 or 47 this way the face is always tighter than the rest of the cut


Hey Sky....I have no idea..I am at a loss....I have tried different feed rates...different blades...I have blown the thing as clean as the day I bought it in 06'.....

You see the mystery to me is why does the "head" angle change when I turn the table? The 45 degree miter angle is correct..it is the top to bottom 90* cut that gets thrown off when I turn the table.


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

skymaster said:


> Bear: The first thing I would do is go get a GOOD blade. I personally really like Freud. Amana, Forrest, cmt all good ones. Freud seems to be easier to find.
> Then see what happens, your blade may be "pushing off" , slowing ur feed may help, so many variables very hard to pick one.
> Heck, it may be dirt builtup on the stops under the saw table. 1/2 degree plus or minus is not that bad speshully in wood :}:}
> If you have some Formica sample chips just slip one under the pc b4 u cut and do a micro back bevel may just may the problem disappear. LOL I use a low angle block plane and do that on every cut I make. To me easier than fussin with chips under the pc on the table.
> PS: on every outside corner I always overcut by about 1 degree or so, 46 or 47 this way the face is always tighter than the rest of the cut


Also...I called the Dewalt Service Center in Atlanta and he said they could fix it but couldnt tell me how. He said they would only charge 35.00 but since it would cost 40.00 in gas to make the 80 mile trip, so I would like to fix the problem myself if possible.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Hey Bear,
Have you checked to see if you have any slop in your saw that needs to be taken out? My hitachi was acting up a little earlier this year after 7 or 8 years of use. I had a little slop in my slide tubes, which have adjusters to take that out. You might want to check all your moving parts and true and tighten everything up, if you haven't already. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

firehawkmph said:


> Hey Bear,
> Have you checked to see if you have any slop in your saw that needs to be taken out? My hitachi was acting up a little earlier this year after 7 or 8 years of use. I had a little slop in my slide tubes, which have adjusters to take that out. You might want to check all your moving parts and true and tighten everything up, if you haven't already.
> Mike Hawkins


Thanks Mike but I have checked that out and believe it or not the angular stock that falls in to the slots to lock the head and table are in great shape. I looked at them this morning and they look like they are falling into place correctly and the machine is real tight(no-slop)


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Bear; Do you own a dial indicator and stand? From your picture it looks to me that the head is twisting as it plunges. If you have an indicator "zero" it out with the head at its highest point then slowly lower it and see if it starts pushing into the indicator. If so then at least you know what the problem is as to how to fix it that is another story. Really look at the mechanism to understand how it works. Also does this do it at both 45's or only one side?For lack of better terms it appears that the head in not traveling vertically but drifting or being pushed off

The fact that DW knows of the problem, tells me it is a part they have on the shelf and just want the money. I would call the customer service dept and just for ****s and giggles ream em out about piss poor service dept, you may just be very surprised and very happy at free help and parts. They are good people, and tell em what u told us, 3 hrs drive, etc etc. :}:}:}:}


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

skymaster said:


> Bear; Do you own a dial indicator and stand? From your picture it looks to me that the head is twisting as it plunges. If you have an indicator "zero" it out with the head at its highest point then slowly lower it and see if it starts pushing into the indicator. If so then at least you know what the problem is as to how to fix it that is another story. Really look at the mechanism to understand how it works. Also does this do it at both 45's or only one side?For lack of better terms it appears that the head in not traveling vertically but drifting or being pushed off
> 
> The fact that DW knows of the problem, tells me it is a part they have on the shelf and just want the money. I would call the customer service dept and just for ****s and giggles ream em out about piss poor service dept, you may just be very surprised and very happy at free help and parts. They are good people, and tell em what u told us, 3 hrs drive, etc etc. :}:}:}:}


Sky...it does seem that way about DW doesnt it?

Yes it does it on both 45's and the saw isnt pushing off because when the blade is at 0 it is plumb, then at either 45's it is off 1/2* on it respective side with it not turned on or any pressure applied to the blade. Also as you have the square on the table and turn it you can watch the gap go from 0 to 1/2* as you turn the table.


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Bear; :} ok whoa, when I said pushin off i was referencing the blade, what I meant in the last post was that in the 45 position when you pull the head down the rails that hold the head may be twisting, Since they have a fix it seems to me that there is slop being created. :yes: Of course the issue is what can be doing this? thats Y i suggested the indicator against the blade and watch what happens when you pull the head down. IF you have a square or triangle that is small enuf you can push it against the blade mark the table then lightly hold against the blade and pull down to bottom of its draw and mark again that will tell ya right there if it is "twisting" if the marks do not lineup. 
I would still call 1-800 dewalt everything to gain nothing to lose :}:}:}
I wish I had the saw here I wood find it! :yes: Then make it an offer it cannot refuse, the Joisey way ROFLMAO.
Hmmmmmm re read all ur posts " problem has been here for a long time"
You may just have a defective saw, which would explain the available fix :}:}:} Oh Jes phonecall time :shifty::shifty::smile:


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

skymaster said:


> Bear; :} ok whoa, when I said pushin off i was referencing the blade, what I meant in the last post was that in the 45 position when you pull the head down the rails that hold the head may be twisting, Since they have a fix it seems to me that there is slop being created. :yes: Of course the issue is what can be doing this? thats Y i suggested the indicator against the blade and watch what happens when you pull the head down. IF you have a square or triangle that is small enuf you can push it against the blade mark the table then lightly hold against the blade and pull down to bottom of its draw and mark again that will tell ya right there if it is "twisting" if the marks do not lineup.
> I would still call 1-800 dewalt everything to gain nothing to lose :}:}:}
> I wish I had the saw here I wood find it! :yes: Then make it an offer it cannot refuse, the Joisey way ROFLMAO.
> Hmmmmmm re read all ur posts " problem has been here for a long time"
> You may just have a defective saw, which would explain the available fix :}:}:} Oh Jes phonecall time :shifty::shifty::smile:


OH..ok..Gotcha...I think I will call them


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

I have the same saw and it does the same thing.

This is what is wrong with mine. The sliding tubes are not parallel to the deck. Cuts square as ever until I swing into a bevel. Then it climbs up through the board at a slight incline. Causing an out of square cut.

The way I checked that was to set the depth of cut stop to just touch the top of a nice flat board. Then pull forward keeping a nice constant tension on my downward pull. The blade came up and clear of the board as I pulled it towards me. That was a bummer.:no:

When I contacted a service center they told me they could put new parts on the saw and "try" to correct the problem. But no guarantee.

You seem to be getting a different tune. I may call and talk to someone else.

But I'll bet that is your trouble as well and there is no field adjustment for that.


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

Gus Dering said:


> I have the same saw and it does the same thing.
> 
> This is what is wrong with mine. The sliding tubes are not parallel to the deck. Cuts square as ever until I swing into a bevel. Then it climbs up through the board at a slight incline. Causing an out of square cut.
> 
> ...


HHmmmmm...thanks for that post...did you you get yours square........HOW?


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

You are welcome.

No mine is still a little jacked, just like the dummy at the switch.:laughing:


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## rrobor (Jul 22, 2009)

Never seen a compound mitre saw being 100% yet, they all have their problems. Good table saw is better.


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

rrobor said:


> Never seen a compound mitre saw being 100% yet, they all have their problems. Good table saw is better.


Never seen anyone trim a house with a table saw, but I'm sure there is at least one guy that has given it a try.:laughing: A good table saw is the hub of any shop but it's not the answer to every question.

The best saw out there right now is made by Festool. 

You better check with your bank before you go look at it. No need to drool all over yourself for no reason.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

My 12" Hitachi has this exact problem. I can't cut a flat picture frame because they open up at the top of the cut. Intersting thought about the rails not being parallel with the base. I'll have to check it out.


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

Gus Dering said:


> Never seen anyone trim a house with a table saw, but I'm sure there is at least one guy that has given it a try.:laughing: A good table saw is the hub of any shop but it's not the answer to every question.
> 
> The best saw out there right now is made by Festool.
> 
> You better check with your bank before you go look at it. No need to drool all over yourself for no reason.


Yes...I have been drooling..LOL


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## vaultf600 (Jul 27, 2009)

I have been lurking on this site for a long time so I finally joined! I have a DW 718 that does the same thing about 1/4 degree shy on both 45 miter dents but square on the 0.Driving me nuts. I'm going to try the parallel thing Gus was saying. Hope there is an easier fix. I have tried replacing the dent guide and the slides under the base with no avail. hope this gets resolved.


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

My 12" Dewalt does the same thing and always has. I have a gen 1 saw in my truck, 10 years old. I have adjusted it dozens of times and paid Dewalt to fix it 2-3 times. It does not fix the problem. I finally started carrying 2 saws, 12"chop, and 12" slide. The chop saw does not deflect like the slide saw does; the slide saw is great but just has too many moving parts for fine trim.

I really detest the new gen 9 saw, a ridiculous # of parts. I have picked up a couple gen 1-6 saws of CL so I will have a supply of good early saws.


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

vaultf600 said:


> I have been lurking on this site for a long time so I finally joined! I have a DW 718 that does the same thing about 1/4 degree shy on both 45 miter dents but square on the 0.Driving me nuts. I'm going to try the parallel thing Gus was saying. Hope there is an easier fix. I have tried replacing the dent guide and the slides under the base with no avail. hope this gets resolved.





scribbles said:


> My 12" Dewalt does the same thing and always has. I have a gen 1 saw in my truck, 10 years old. I have adjusted it dozens of times and paid Dewalt to fix it 2-3 times. It does not fix the problem. I finally started carrying 2 saws, 12"chop, and 12" slide. The chop saw does not deflect like the slide saw does; the slide saw is great but just has too many moving parts for fine trim.
> 
> I really detest the new gen 9 saw, a ridiculous # of parts. I have picked up a couple gen 1-6 saws of CL so I will have a supply of good early saws.


Well I be a son of a gun...looks like this is not an isolated thing..

Thanks for the reply guys


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Do all DW718 SBMS all have this problem?*

Are we to belive that they all are faulty, and there is no factory "fix" since you guys have tried all that? Is there a solution we can make ourselves? How do you tell gen 1 from 6? Anyone got ideas?:blink: bill


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I would think that if there is a defect in the casting then all of them would be bad.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I've been using my 12" slide for about 3 years with daily abuse trimming houses. I have always had problems keeping it square, but it's the nature of the beast I guess. It's pretty tricky doing cuts on 9" crown, but it can be done. 

I think that if they were to make the saw beefy enough to not deflect and be accurate, then it wouldn't be as portable and not as appealing to the homeowners out there. It's sad but true that most of the tools we use are not actually built for us, but for the unskilled amateurs who don't know the difference of a square cut from one that's 1/2 a degree off.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I'm already a little off to start with*

So, I don't notice a half degree or even more sometimes. Except when I fall and can't get up. Man, 9" crown, that must be fun.:no: On the flat or at the spring angle? Coped or mitered? And all overhead work. woah. You have my respect!:yes: bill


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

You can tell subtle differences, the earlier saws were heavier, the new guys hate carrying my saw, and they deflect less, gen 7-8 are getting really light, the new saw gen 9 is a joke. It is not a factory defect it just gets out of alignment. If you spend 1-2 hours flattening pieces and tuning it you can get it dead on, but over time it will not hold its set. Just so many moving parts. Remember I probley have 8-10k running hours on my saw, I have burnt out 3 motors. Try a Makita 10 slide, 100x worse; it is just the nature of the beast. My old Hitachi 8.5 has not been adjusted in 9 years and it is still dead on, but small blade, and no double miter.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

scribbles said:


> You can tell subtle differences, the earlier saws were heavier, the new guys hate carrying my saw,


I remember about 25-28 years ago I was trimming houses as a teenager. I worked for my uncle and he had I think it was a 16" Makita monster miter saw. That damn thing was heavy. 

Well it sounds like this is a common problem more then likely becuse of to many moving parts and to much moving of the saw from job to job. As I'm sure most of you are aware, it is next to impossible to keep the RAS aligned if you move it back and forth from angle to straight. Like someone said earlier it's the nature of the beast.


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## woodworks (Feb 12, 2008)

Bearcreek said:


> This is a problem that has been a thorn in my side with my Dewalt 12” double-bevel sliding compound miter saw for a long time, but it was such a small problem I never looked into it when doing general construction. But now that I am using it do do precision trim work it is a pain in the arse.
> 
> For instance, I just got finished putting some base around some cabinetry and ever time I swivel my saw to cut 45's I have to bump the angle a half degree +/- for each side. I have put my machinist square on it and it is dead on plumb when on 90. It just baffles my mind that I have to tweak this thing every time I swing it.
> 
> ...


Yes I have a solution because I had the same problem. The base is out of wack. I bought one and for the life of me could not get it to run 45's the right way. Also on mine it wouldn't cut square on both sides. Either one side was square and the other was out or vice versa. Since I had purchased the extra warenty, I took it in and Dewalt was aware of the defect. They had been like that since the 90s and were still putting the bad bases on them. They had to install the new base that replaced the old one. Once I got it back and and started tweaking it, it is just fine now.


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## Dejure (Sep 2, 2009)

*Get squeeky*

Considering your post in conjunction with other's, it certainly sounds like you have a manufacturers defect. Obviously, the stated warranty against manufacturers defects is long since past. However, you have the right to expect what you paid for.

If nothing else, there is the old "do me good and I tell a few people, do me bad and I tell everybody" approach.


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## ihackwood (Sep 5, 2009)

i bought mine when it first came out, i have trimmed many a house with it, i built a custom table for it and i didn't haul it stuffed in a p/u bed, i treat it like a precision instrument,

i adjusted mine perfectly, at both bevels it sucks to do but when it's right it's right, unless you stuff it into a p/u bed lol


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## Bearcreek (Jul 22, 2009)

ihackwood said:


> i bought mine when it first came out, i have trimmed many a house with it, i built a custom table for it and i didn't haul it stuffed in a p/u bed, i treat it like a precision instrument,
> 
> i adjusted mine perfectly, at both bevels it sucks to do but when it's right it's right, unless you stuff it into a p/u bed lol


Aergo the problem senior...LOL


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

I had the same problem with my bosses dewalt double sliding chop saw. I tried and tried to set the blade to the back stop using a tri-square. Then I found the trouble. Using an aluminum level against the back stop I found it was out. The level touched at both ends but had a gap on both side closest to the blade. The other thing I found was the plate under the table that the angles lock in to, was off just a very little bit. About 1/6 of an inch. I had to take the saw apart to make that adjustment. Now it cuts true at every angle. Funny thing is we put up with bad cuts for a long time and it took 20 minutes to fix.


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