# It wont work they said it will look horrible they said



## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Hey guys I was told by my entire class that " it looks like hell" " it will never work" " it's too wet" and even after I turned it " you'll never get that sanded" it's not going to look right" well what do you guys think?? It's a walnut bowl. Bunch of sap wood around it pictures go from oldest to newest tomoro I will post finished pictures tomorrow.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

looks pretty darn good to me


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

Looks nice Here are a couple of tips for you for future bowls when it gets to the sanding you can run that Powermatic that they have at your school in reverse and you will get a nicer finish, and sand slow speed you don't want your project getting warm things tend to crack heat check call it what you like. Keep the thickness of your bowl the same this includes the bottom. So on the bottom what are your plans for it? Here are some thoughts if I might. Make a jam chuck for the bowl, take the faceplate off mount bowl and reverse turn the bottom. Reverse turning is a term for turning the bottom of a bowl that is on the tailstock side of things. work on centering your work even if this means that you end up with a smaller bowl you will be surprised how many more comments you will get when things are centered. hope you and others put this advice to good use your work is really coming along I look forward to seeing more of it. Keep up the good work.

Jerry


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Looks great. I take it you have the sanding complete. If it is wet I would wait on putting on the finish until the wood is drier.
Tom


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

TomC said:


> Looks great. I take it you have the sanding complete. If it is wet I would wait on putting on the finish until the wood is drier.
> Tom


Still have to do 220 and apply those wood shavings to her. And ya I belive I will.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

wood shavings said:


> Looks nice Here are a couple of tips for you for future bowls when it gets to the sanding you can run that Powermatic that they have at your school in reverse and you will get a nicer finish, and sand slow speed you don't want your project getting warm things tend to crack heat check call it what you like. Keep the thickness of your bowl the same this includes the bottom. So on the bottom what are your plans for it? Here are some thoughts if I might. Make a jam chuck for the bowl, take the faceplate off mount bowl and reverse turn the bottom. Reverse turning is a term for turning the bottom of a bowl that is on the tailstock side of things. work on centering your work even if this means that you end up with a smaller bowl you will be surprised how many more comments you will get when things are centered. hope you and others put this advice to good use your work is really coming along I look forward to seeing more of it. Keep up the good work.
> 
> Jerry


Ok gunna dissect this into parts. First on the sanding. I have ran it in reverse to sand but never for any amount of time. How does this make a nicer finish? I normally jack the speed up when sanding might have to change that what I usually do for the bottom is once I get it off the chuck I take it to an oscillating belt sander and run it down to flush. How would I make a jam chuck? And last what do you mean by centering it?? Thank you so much for the advice I will take it seriously and apply it to my next bowl. Thank you once again for everything!!


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

jjboozel said:


> Still have to do 220 and apply those wood shavings to her. And ya I belive I will.


Fist let me say I'm not an expert in this area. However, experienced people on this forum have convinced me not to dry bowls with the shavings. They say it just encouraged the growth of mold. Just put in a paper bag and let it dry.
Tom


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Good for you. They all must be the people who want you to drink downstream from the herd. I do hope that you can finish this with the bowl intact. You got bragging rights.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

TomC said:


> Fist let me say I'm not an expert in this area. However, experienced people on this forum have convinced me not to dry bowls with the shavings. They say it just encouraged the growth of mold. Just put in a paper bag and let it dry.
> Tom


I ment sand with the wood shavings sorry


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Robson Valley said:


> Good for you. They all must be the people who want you to drink downstream from the herd. I do hope that you can finish this with the bowl intact. You got bragging rights.


Thank you! And they are.. Very jealous when I was doing the inside I had a crowd becuse they wanted to see me out the tool through the side of the bowl... Sure showed them. Then I got a crowd around when I was final cutting ( high speed little cut) they thought something was going to happen. Then once again when I was sanding becuse they figured the bowl would shatter. I sure hope it stays intact!


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

jjboozel said:


> I ment sand with the wood shavings sorry


Is this the same as "burnishing" with a fistful of shavings?

Your bowl looks excellent - beautiful out-flowing shape, and the heartwood/sapwood contrast really makes it stand out.

The "jam chuck" suggestion is one method to give you access to get your turning tools onto the foot (base) of the workpiece.

Other methods that allow you to reverse-turn (i.e. flip the bowl so it's rim is at the headstock) include "Cole jaws", "Longworth chuck", and "doughnut chuck".

John Lucas wrote a document called "Methods and Jigs for Reverse Turning Bowls" -- I hope THIS LINK works to download it.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

duncsuss said:


> Is this the same as "burnishing" with a fistful of shavings?
> 
> Your bowl looks excellent - beautiful out-flowing shape, and the heartwood/sapwood contrast really makes it stand out.
> 
> ...


Yup exactly. Give it like a 1000 grit sand shines it up real nice. And thank you! I can't rember if you were one of the ones who suggested working in my shapes of the bowls so I tried it and I'm happy the way it came out! Thanks for that article that's great!!! Ill have to try some


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## Hwood (Oct 21, 2011)

looking sweet so far


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

A jam chuck is nothing more than a scrap block of wood that is turned round normally smaller than the bowl that you turned so in your case if it were say three by three by three to start. Put a slightly rounded edge on it so that your bowl can be centered on it rim of the bowl is now facing towards the headstock, bring the tailstock with live center in it up to your work apply just enough pressure by turning the tailstock crank. This will allow you to now turn the bottom of your bowl all but a small nubbin that you can take off with a chisel and then sand smooth. This you will find gives you a much nicer bottom of your bowl than say a belt or disc sander and is safer to boot.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Just remembered I was going to mention this ...

When you use a jam chuck or one of the other types of chuck, you will still need some way of attaching it to the drive shaft of the lathe.

One option is to screw that metal faceplate which you used for your bowl to the piece of wood -- but each time you attach it, you will find it's slightly out of true and you end up having to work on that for ten minutes before you can get on with what you were actually trying to do.

An alternative is to cut screw threads into the wooden block which will be your jam chuck. I got one of THESE thread-cutting taps which matches the threads of my lathe's drive shaft. (I also had to buy a 1-1/8th Forstner bit to drill the hole which I could then tap.)

Now I don't need to screw my wooden blocks to a faceplate -- I can drill and tap them, and they simply screw onto the drive shaft. True the circumference once, true the face once ... :thumbsup:


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

*Centering*

You asked what I meant about centering your work. Often when we start turning we want to make the most out of the wood we have well their are better ways to make use of the wood and one of those ways is to get the best appearance out of the wood remember only you knew how big the piece was when you started. So don't worry about the size of the final product some of the small pieces will command more money or praise because you took the time to arrange the wood either centered or making sure the pith is all the way on edge the more you turn the more you will become attune to what the wood has to offer.

Jerry


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Drill a hole in the base, mount it on a lamp, turn the light on, that will dry it out.

Looking cool.

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

wood shavings said:


> You asked what I meant about centering your work. Often when we start turning we want to make the most out of the wood we have well their are better ways to make use of the wood and one of those ways is to get the best appearance out of the wood remember only you knew how big the piece was when you started. So don't worry about the size of the final product some of the small pieces will command more money or praise because you took the time to arrange the wood either centered or making sure the pith is all the way on edge the more you turn the more you will become attune to what the wood has to offer.
> 
> Jerry


Ahhhhh ok. I think I understand now... Well most of the stuff I turn I draw the biggest circle possible on it. This particular piece had all redy been cut out on a bandsaw but never finished and my teacher told me if I didn't want it he was going to turn it. I told him I'd be happy to turn it. It was a mans in a night class that my vo tech offers and when the class ended he left the bowl blank there so I snatched it right up! Have u seen my shot glass I spun?? That was a TINY! Piece!


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

jjb: just stay cool. The JB has never improved anyone's life style.
Back to the bowl:
I don't know diddly about turning. I sharpen turning tools for the day that I want 
to make something on another man's lathe. I am very, very good at sharpening.
I'll bet that you learned a heap about turning and finishing with that one project.
Far, far more than you ever would have figured out with a 'perfect' piece of wood.
An experience that your class mates will never share. Fine. Move on.

There are some 36" x 48" blanks of willow branch/trunk stumps across my back alley.


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## Lilty (Dec 20, 2006)

Bowl looks great, keep up the great work.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

Looking very nice. :thumbsup:

The following is jmho.

Sanding. Lots of people sand in reverse (or alternate when changing grits). The main thing I have heard is that the fibers lay over when you are sanding and reversing direction helps from pressing them down. I tried it and did not find a benefit.
Mho is that if the fibers are being laid over they are not being cut. Use good sharp sandpaper. If you are using dust collection you must move the connector each time you change directions. Beware sanding in reverse unless you lock your faceplate/chuck to the spindle with a set screw, it can come flying off.

Centering. Make an item like below to fit the opening in your faceplate (your spindle size). Drill on the lathe so the hole will be exactly centered.
I used a 16p nail but you can use a section of coat hanger, welding rod. Anything fairly stiff.
Before you remove the faceplate insert and mark the center. You will then have the exact center for the tailstock when you remount it.

Burnishing. I agree with others, rubbing with 4-0 wool or dry shavings is what I do as burnishing. Other things can be used but I haven’t tried them (like crumpled brown paper grocery bags).

Terminology… I notice a difference in “jam chuck”. Almost always is.
In the link which duncsuss provided, first picture is what I call a jam chuck. I have never seen anyone use it except in old videos (old being before 1995).
In the fifth picture (the one with the projection) is what some people call a jam chuck. I call it a friction chuck. Again, imho the end should not be rounded (convex) it should be flat or better yet concave. Convex it meets the bowl only at one one point and the bowl can wobble. Convex it meets the inside curve of the bowl around circle. So a 2” friction chuck would have 6+ inches of contact around the edge.
I normally just throw a piece of leather over my chuck jaws but sometime you may need a longer reach if the bowl is deep.

I have never lost a bowl from a friction chuck and can “clean up the base” down to about 3/8” before cutting the nib off by hand and sanding the small area.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

wood shavings said:


> You asked what I meant about centering your work.


I really like the way the pattern is arranged in the bowl.

I see beautiful symmetry along one axis, and nicely balanced asymmetry along the other. IMO it's like book-matched veneer, it doesn't have to be symmetrical in both X and Y dimensions.

Again IMO ... too much symmetry reduces the artistic value of a piece.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

FINISHED PICTURES!!! Will be applying oil and letting it dry for the next 3 weeks let me know what you think!


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I love the mix of heart and sapwood. Really nice looking bowl. Well done. :thumbsup:

The finish makes the colours really pop.

Fingers crossed this dries out evenly.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

see? they were right! it didn't work, and what you ended up looks bad.

you should listen to them more the next time.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Chris Curl said:


> see? they were right! it didn't work, and what you ended up looks bad.
> 
> you should listen to them more the next time.


What???


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Chris Curl said:


> see? they were right! it didn't work, and what you ended up looks bad.
> 
> you should listen to them more the next time.


I apologize... I was taken aback by the nature of your comment... However what you said is your opinion and I respect that. So therefore instead of just telling me it doesn't look good why not tell me what I am do to improve it next time. Is it the shape? The wood in general? Or is it mabey sanding?? Please let me know because I think this is a beautiful bowl so I would like to know where I went wrong.


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## robhodge1 (Feb 14, 2011)

jjboozel said:


> I apologize... I was taken aback by the nature of your comment... However what you said is your opinion and I respect that. So therefore instead of just telling me it doesn't look good why not tell me what I am do to improve it next time. Is it the shape? The wood in general? Or is it mabey sanding?? Please let me know because I think this is a beautiful bowl so I would like to know where I went wrong.


I would believe that that post was sarcasm. Your bowl turned out fantastic.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

yea i agree it was sarcasm im sure
at least i hope so


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

robhodge1 said:


> I would believe that that post was sarcasm. Your bowl turned out fantastic.


Ya that's true I apologize for getting upset. I took a lot of crap about this bowl. Even today was told how bad the sap looked on it so its just hard. Alot of kids try to turn In my class and can't do it so when I get on the lathe everyone wants to see me mess up and wants to see me turn a bad bowl.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Dave Paine said:


> I love the mix of heart and sapwood. Really nice looking bowl. Well done. :thumbsup:
> 
> The finish makes the colours really pop.
> 
> Fingers crossed this dries out evenly.


Thank you!! I love the heartwood... I love the shape. I love the oil as well.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

Job well done, really show its colors when your finish is dry and you can buff it out and then put it out for all to see and enjoy. Oh and the people that don't have much to say are those that wish they could do work as well as you do. So keep up the good work

Jerry


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

jjboozel said:


> I apologize... I was taken aback by the nature of your comment... However what you said is your opinion and I respect that. So therefore instead of just telling me it doesn't look good why not tell me what I am do to improve it next time. Is it the shape? The wood in general? Or is it mabey sanding?? Please let me know because I think this is a beautiful bowl so I would like to know where I went wrong.


it is obvious to anyone with eyes that their predictions were completely wrong.

your results are so COMPLETELY different from what they predicted that i thought it would be funny (at least maybe a little funny) to point out again what they predicted.

sorry, sometimes my sense of humor is a little flippant.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Chris Curl said:


> it is obvious to anyone with eyes that their predictions were completely wrong.
> 
> your results are so COMPLETELY different from what they predicted that i thought it would be funny (at least maybe a little funny) to point out again what they predicted.
> 
> sorry, sometimes my sense of humor is a little flippant.


Well I thank you! And looking at it is funny! Hahaha like I said above i just revived alot of crap about this bowl. Everyone try's to turn, however I'm the only one who can turn out things that are nice. So they always want to see me mess up. So it's difficult and gets to you eventually. Even when your all son and being told that they don't like it because there is to much sap. I apologize for taking it seriously. I wasn't even that upset just more or less annoyed haha but I'm not anymore. Thank you for your compliments. I read that a couple hours after I got home so all of there comments were still fresh and ya you get it hahaha.


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## Bonanza35 (Jan 20, 2011)

Clearly you've got guts and talent. What you need is some supportive fellow turners around you. So welcome to the forum. And beautiful bowl!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Bonanza35 said:


> Clearly you've got guts and talent. What you need is some supportive fellow turners around you. So welcome to the forum. And beautiful bowl!


Well thank you!! I appreciate that alot!! And I agree. So thanks!!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Sometimes YOU need to understand that "YOU, ARE THE ONLY ONE THAT NEEDS TO BE HAPPY WITH YOUR WORK".

I build some different stuff, and totally understand that such isn't always enjoyed by others, but, if I like it, that's all that matters to me, PERIOD. 

People ask to see my house, and I smile and say, SURE, it's different, but I like it, so come on over..... 

Wishing you well,

Dale in Indy


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## calcnerd (Dec 7, 2012)

Looks awesome. Feels good to show them up I'm sure. Great work!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

You might notice how nice the bowl photo looks when sitting on a contrasting cloth/etc. 

Just the white towel even when not spread out makes the bowl show up better, just my opinion.

Best wishes,

Dale in Indy


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## rdlcherry (Apr 20, 2013)

Glad you didn't listen to the naysayers, it has turned out beautiful.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

rdlcherry said:


> Glad you didn't listen to the naysayers, it has turned out beautiful.


Thank you I love it!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> You might notice how nice the bowl photo looks when sitting on a contrasting cloth/etc.
> 
> Just the white towel even when not spread out makes the bowl show up better, just my opinion.
> 
> ...


Yes I think it does however that was not planned. Ill take some without the towel there if you would like me to.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Whew long thread but I couldn't sleep tonight. Excellent job on the bowl. Nothing wrong with leaving the sap wood on it really enhances the appearance. If you have any money to spare buy John Jordan's video. http://www.johnjordanwoodturning.com/John_Jordan_Woodturning/Tools_and_More.html
John uses the heart and sap wood better than just about anyone. Check out his gallery and you'll see. 

There isn't any real benefit to sanding backwards most of the time. I still do it occasionally because it feels good but mostly it's a matter of just sanding so that all previous scratches don't show. I sand at slower speeds. Sanding fast lets the sandpaper bounce across torn grain on the sections where there is torn grain. Quite often in the early stages of sanding I will turn the lathe off and sand those areas by hand sanding with the grain direction. It's much faster than running the lathe fast and trying to get those areas out with really course sandpaper. Sanding in reverse sometimes does help in the early stages of green bowls. On green wood I try to surface dry the wood with a hair dryer so it doesn't clog the sandpaper so much. Either that or use Mirka Abranet sandpaper which looks like wire screen. It doesn't clog as bad.
The shape is excellent. Good flowing lines. Your really improving. My only complaint would be the finish. I'm not a fan of plastic looking finihes. These are usually caused buy using thick layers of glossy finish. I prefer to build up the gloss using thin layers of wipe on finish or a spray on finish. Then you have to finish the finish. by that I mean I go over the finish with 4/0 steel wool to get rid of any dust nibs or raised grain and apply more finish. A really good finish is not quick. A perfect finish requires filling the grain, applying finiish and then fine sanding and leveling the finish followed by hand rubbing or buffing to a glass like coat. Those are a pain to do and I reserve them for my finest pieces. For most pieces I prefer a sort of satin finish that's been buffed to a slightly higher shine. You can get this fairly quickly by going over the piece with 4/0 steel wool until it's evenly dull. then rub a good quality floor wax over it. This brings it back up to a very natural looking shine.
Don't get me started on photography. I spent 26 years photographing art work for many of the top artists. Mostly for Forums what you want is a good non distracting background (read that as no wrinkles in the cloth) and sharp infocus images. If you start selling work and want to get into the better shows then the photography needs to be much more serious and I'd be glad to help with that.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

john lucas said:


> Whew long thread but I couldn't sleep tonight. Excellent job on the bowl. Nothing wrong with leaving the sap wood on it really enhances the appearance. If you have any money to spare buy John Jordan's video. http://www.johnjordanwoodturning.com/John_Jordan_Woodturning/Tools_and_More.html
> John uses the heart and sap wood better than just about anyone. Check out his gallery and you'll see.
> 
> There isn't any real benefit to sanding backwards most of the time. I still do it occasionally because it feels good but mostly it's a matter of just sanding so that all previous scratches don't show. I sand at slower speeds. Sanding fast lets the sandpaper bounce across torn grain on the sections where there is torn grain. Quite often in the early stages of sanding I will turn the lathe off and sand those areas by hand sanding with the grain direction. It's much faster than running the lathe fast and trying to get those areas out with really course sandpaper. Sanding in reverse sometimes does help in the early stages of green bowls. On green wood I try to surface dry the wood with a hair dryer so it doesn't clog the sandpaper so much. Either that or use Mirka Abranet sandpaper which looks like wire screen. It doesn't clog as bad.
> ...


Haha it is a pretty long thread. Thank you I love the bowl and I love the sap wood on it. I checked out johns website his stuff is beautiful! 
I never thought that sanding backwards helped. I tried it the other day and the only thing that happened was I got the sandpaper ripped out of my hand like 5 times never heard of the hair dryer method. Have heard of rough turning and microwaving it. 
Thanks for the compliment I love the shape. And after the last bowl I tried to improve the shape and work for something different. I'm working hard to improve fast! The school year is coming to an end and I will soon be " shop less" I meen I have a radial arm saw circular saws ( like 10! Can't pass them up at $1) jigsaws 3 bunch if sanders. And a mitre saw. No table or lathe. I know I can use the radial a a table saw but that always makes me jumpy doing that. Not a fun experience. I'm looking to buy a lathe so I want to get all the basics down for when my teacher isn't around.
As for the finish it is a Danish oil finish. I've put on probably 25 coats. I let it sit for 10-15 minutes wipe it off and reapply. It has not cracked at all overnight I bag it up. The finish isn't as shiny in picture because that was when I just applied the oil. Hears a question. The oil makes the walnut look beautiful but turns the sap an ugly yellow. Could I put it back on the lathe once it's done drying. Sand it with say 220 grit take the finish off and apply one coat. With one coat the sap was white and walnut looked great! Just not sure if that's practical or not. I have heard of the Steele wool before I have used that method. Could you explain more on the way you finish your bowls? Ways your favorite oil? Clear coat? And method. I have never finished a bowl with poly. ( we spray our clear out of a spray gun) I would like to know more about the photography. I was not trying to enhance the bowl when I took the pictures the ah underneath was when I flipped it upside down to take the chuck of i didnt want to damage the edge. I would love to know tips and tricks on it. If you don't feel comfortable putting it out here please PM me I would really like to know.
Thank you so much for taking the time to admire and help me out. I appreciate it greatly and look forward to hearing back from you! 
Thanks once again!!
~Josh


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

There are lots of ways to finish a piece. Almost any finish will work if you sand the piece well before you apply the finish. Wipe on finishes tend to go on thin and build very slowly. They make great satin or semi satin finishes that look like your piece doesn't have any finish. If you apply enough coats you can get quite a gloss. 
Unfortunately all of them change the colors of the piece. Some for the better some for worse. White woods are the worse. Oil finishes tend to yellow them, while water based leaves them lighter. However water base often adds a sort of blue to the piece so the whites look whiter (your to young to remember the old cloths washing commercials) However the bluish tone can kill the rich warm look of the dark walnut so it's a tradeoff on that wood. 
If you want as little change to the piece as possible use Krylon Fixatif. It is a spray that is used to "fix" pastel chalk drawings so they won't rub off on you. ON wood it looks like it's never had any finish although it will change some colors and will sometimes even darken the light woods. You simply have to run a test and be prepared to sand it off if it doesn't work. That's an option for most finishes. Always experiment with scrap pieces if you can but you have to sand them the same way you do the final piece.
Steel wool comes in sizes from 0 to 4/0. the 4/0 is finer. I use it after I finish a piece often between applications of finish. It cleans up any dust that settles in the finish. It's somewhere between about 1200 and 1500 grit sandpaper in how it dulls (or polishes) the wood. It's not good on woods like Oak that have a lot of tanins. The tanins will react with the steel and cause it to rust so tiny particles that get trapped can show up later as brown spots. I only use it on finished woods.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

If you want to get an idea of different looks ask if there are scraps of birch plywood (3/4 and about 1 foot diameter) or a hard spindle dowel about a foot long and 1.5 - 2” diameter.
The shop probably has 4-0 steel wool. At the disc center or one end of the dowell coat 2-3 inches with your oil. The next 2-3 inches with thinned shellac, and the last section with a different finish (start with all areas sanded smooth).
Leave about an inch of each section plain, the next burnish with 4-0 steel wool, and the last inch with 4-0 and then dry shavings.
You will come out with about nine 1” bands but that is enough to tell the difference. I think you will be surprised at the warm luster achieved just by burnishing.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

My problems with burnishing with shavings is simply it's too easy to pick up something that is slightly harder than the wood you have and it leaves a streak or line. I prefer to use good quality sandpaper instead. I know exactly what I'm doing and I can polish or stop anywhere along the grits. I learned to burnish from reading old books and of course thought it was the way to go. After my finishing skills got better I realized that it was not the way to go. Good skills with good sandpaper gives a better finish.
Burnishing can also change how the wood takes finish. All parts of the wood will not always burnish the same. However it usually will sand the same.


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## Andrew D (Apr 18, 2013)

Beautiful bowl! Really good job. I really like the flared style of bowls. I actually just finished a ambrosia maple bowl with a flared lip a week ago.

Forget the guys that tell you "It absolutely won't work." I've seen guys say that you can't turn a bowl with the pith in it without it cracking. But that's not true. Just because one person can't do it doesn't mean another can't.

I was just wondering, what is your plan for drying it? Since the walls are so thin, as it dries it will warp quite a bit. It may even crack. I happen to like warped bowls. I think its fascinating the different shapes it makes :smile:

I just finished roughing out a salad bowl made of walnut that was from a tree me and a friend cut down yesterday, and I left the sapwood on. I think the contrasting colors are amazing. It will be drying for the next 6 months or so.

Again, nice job :thumbsup:


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

john lucas said:


> Burnishing can also change how the wood takes finish. All parts of the wood will not always burnish the same. However it usually will sand the same.


To clarify, I burnish as the finish, or “finishing the finish”. I have never applied another finish over a burnished item for the reasons you mention.
I typically use 2-4 coats of thinned shellac or oil to harden the wood, then wipe all excess (shine) off and then burnish. I use several coats of base to insure all of the wood does achieve an equal luster.
As you stated, the item must be sanded well before starting with any finishing or it is all for naught.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> it is obvious to anyone with eyes that their predictions were completely wrong.
> 
> your results are so COMPLETELY different from what they predicted that i thought it would be funny (at least maybe a little funny) to point out again what they predicted.
> 
> sorry, sometimes my sense of humor is a little flippant.


This is the reason we have so many misunderstandings. It's not your sense of humor but rather no context of how the words were meant. I have been guilty of this in the past. A simple fix is use a smiley to give the reader hint as to how he should take it. :thumbsup:


Now as for the bowl, what to do, not to do etc. 

I noticed at my turning club that some of the turners tend to be to restrictive in what they think is correct. Damn know it all people. :laughing: Seriously there are some who live inside a box and believe what they perceive as beautiful is what everyone does, then there are many who know this is just not correct. Bowl shape especially is where this is very apparent. There are those in our club that believe a bowl has to be one shape. Then there are those that believe the walls should be turned to a very thin wall. They routinely comment on things like this as if they know everything. Then there are people like me and many others that see beauty in things even if they were not our particular style. I'm getting to the point very soon. :laughing:

One of my friends Sean from the club who has helped me out allot. He usually starts a lesson like this. I'm no expert, there are probably many who know more then I do that will tell you differently. I can only teach you what I know works for me. You can take that as a starting point and fine tune or change it to what works for you.

So take all the advice you can and learn new ways of doing things. Find what works for you and do it. I'm trained in both fine and commercial arts. Woodworking, turning etc are all forms of art. There is no real right way unless it comes to safety. 

It appears that you already know allot of this just by reading your bowl story. It looks great in all aspects. Keep up the good work.


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## ctwiggs1 (Mar 30, 2011)

JJ - I don't have many years on you, but throughout those few extra years I've learned this: People who harp, people to discourage, people who try to bring you down -- They're just jealous. Your work is awesome. Stay humble because chances are there is someone who really wants to be as good as you that can use your encouragement in class.

Good job buddy

Curtis


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## bigcouger (Jan 4, 2012)

Outstanding Bowl keep up the great work :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## hughie (Mar 22, 2008)

JJ well dont listen to your class. It came out first rate. :thumbsup:


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

ctwiggs1 said:


> JJ - I don't have many years on you, but throughout those few extra years I've learned this: People who harp, people to discourage, people who try to bring you down -- They're just jealous. Your work is awesome. Stay humble because chances are there is someone who really wants to be as good as you that can use your encouragement in class.
> 
> Good job buddy
> 
> Curtis


Thank you! I appreciate the kind words.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

bigcouger said:


> Outstanding Bowl keep up the great work :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks and I will!!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

hughie said:


> JJ well dont listen to your class. It came out first rate. :thumbsup:


Haha I tend not too. Thank you!


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