# My Ridgid R4512 table saw outfeed



## jaydawg74

Not sure if this should go in the jigs forum, so move it if necessary!

Well my old Delta 36-600 outlived it's usefulness and it was time to upgrade. I picked up the Ridgid R4512 last week and so far I love it! This is the outfeed table and a couple of jigs I built for it! Critique is welcomed!



















I found that some t-bolts go into the bottom of the rear fence rail. A piece of 3/4" plywood for the bottom with 2 3/4" pieces glued and screwed together make the perfect riser. The top is a piece of 1/2" plywood. I was going to use mdf for the top but I had the plywood so I used it instead. The height is perfect. It's like 1/32 below the saw top when I stretched out my level! I put a little chamfer on the leading edge just to be safe! I used a piece of plywood the width of the top for a front cleat and two small pieces of hardwood for rear cleats. I put 3 screws in the top to hold it down to the risers but as soon as I make it back to the hardware store, I'll remove the screws and use some carriage bolts and some knobs for easy removal. I'm also going to pick up some shorter t-bolts for the connection to the rear fence because I want my 4 inch bolts back!









For the legs I just used a 2x4 cut in half. Drilled a hole and used a bolt with a smooth shank and threaded tip. Fixed it to a piece of hardboard and screwed it in from the top.









I then drilled a hole in the foot and hammered in a threaded insert and used a bolt and nut for a leveler. Works very well!









I'm very happy with the outfeed table!

Built a nice tall fence that slips over the saws fence. Cut it to fit snug so it doesn't move. You can see my old outfeed table for the old saw in the back. I'll use it as a small assembly table.









The tall fence can be turned around and the back side will be used as a sacrificial fence.









A stop block for cross cuts. Again, I cut it to fit tight so it wont move.









A quick sliding tenoning jig. I cut this one to fit perfectly on the fence. Not too tight, not too loose. I put some paraffin wax on the wood so it glides across the fence smoothly. I just use a screw clamp or spring clamp to keep the workpiece in place.

















And, my saw-side table/storage. Built it awhile ago for my old saw, but I thought I'd include it here!


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## Chaincarver Steve

Nice. I too have the R4512. Great saw. I've been thinking about making an outfeed table for mine as well so that I can stop using those darned roller stands for the purpose. AND a tall fence. But I wasn't sure yet how I'd attach it to the saw (and have it clear the fence too). Your post and pictures will help me out a lot. Thank you very much.

I'll probably make mine capable of folding down, out of the way, for when I need that extra space. I appreciate your posting this.


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## jaydawg74

You're welcome Steve! Happy to share!


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## Jim West Pa

Nicely done jaydawg.
Function :thumbsup:
And, as Norm would say..." it's all about the jigs " :yes:


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## TS3660

Very nice. I have a Rigid 3660 and built and outfeed table for it but now I have some ideas from your post about jigs. Thanks.


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## Chaincarver Steve

Now you need to add a drawer to your TS like I did to mine. It's probably one of the most useful and handy things I've done for my shop. I use it all the time. Check it out:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/my-first-attempt-dovetails-31951/


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## dwendt1978

I will definitely be doing this to my R4512. Thinking of adding casters to the outfeed table instead. I have already added the mdf to the empty spot in the rails and on the left a board hooked to the stamped wing with hooks to hold my different pushsticks. I would look into Leecraft ZCI for it. They fit great and are 100x better than any of them I've made and eliminate tear out.


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## Chaincarver Steve

dwendt1978 said:


> I will definitely be doing this to my R4512. Thinking of adding casters to the outfeed table instead. I have already added the mdf to the empty spot in the rails and on the left a board hooked to the stamped wing with hooks to hold my different pushsticks. I would look into Leecraft ZCI for it. They fit great and are 100x better than any of them I've made and eliminate tear out.


+1 on the Leecraft inserts. Great product. The ones I bought are a perfect fit for my R4512.


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## jaydawg74

Here's a few more pictures for anyone who would like to do the same to their saw. I couldn't find ANYTHING when I was looking into how to do it so I hope this thread can help some fellow woodworkers!




















I had to hold a flashlight behind the level to show just how small the gap is!









Make sure you have enough clearance when you attach the top. The top needs to be a minimum of 9/16 from rail or 1 7/8 from the saw top to accommodate the rear fence clamp when it is loose!









For a detailed measured drawing, send $15.00 to............ hehehe nevermind....










Also, the legs are 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 36" long.


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## jaydawg74

Steve, great job on the drawer! That might be my next project! Thank you!


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## Chaincarver Steve

Thanks for the measurements and extra photos. How thick is the plywood you used? 3/4?

Yeah, having a drawer there has proven to be very useful.


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## jaydawg74

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Thanks for the measurements and extra photos. How thick is the plywood you used? 3/4?
> 
> Yeah, having a drawer there has proven to be very useful.


3/4 for everything except for the top, which is 1/2".


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## dwendt1978

Is it still capable of rolling around? I have to move mine quite a bit.


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## jaydawg74

dwendt1978 said:


> Is it still capable of rolling around? I have to move mine quite a bit.


Yes. In fact, if I fold the legs in a bit so they're off the ground, the table stays horizontal quite well even without the screws through the top. I guess the cleats hold it in place pretty well.


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## mn pete

Very cool!


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## thegrgyle

I really like this, and you have given me some ideas on how to add an outfeed to my saw with a "clamp-style" fence. 

thanks for posting it.

Fabian


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## Stilts

That looks great! I am just in the planing stages of adding an out feed table to my new saw. I saw a similar design in an old copy of shop notes. Thanks for the detailed description. I think I am going to do one very similar. Also gives some good ideas for additional jigs. How tight does the sacrificial fence need to be on the fence?


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## jaydawg74

Stilts said:


> That looks great! I am just in the planing stages of adding an out feed table to my new saw. I saw a similar design in an old copy of shop notes. Thanks for the detailed description. I think I am going to do one very similar. Also gives some good ideas for additional jigs. How tight does the sacrificial fence need to be on the fence?


I made mine so it slides on and off fairly easily but there's still a little bit of snugness to it. I found that, you're better off to make it a little too snug, then simply run it through the saw with the blade height set to the bottom of the horizontal piece trimming off a tiny bit of the inside until you get the fit you want.

like this here.......


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## Chaincarver Steve

Jaydawg, you've inspired me (thank you) to finally get off my butt, gather some scrap and make me a tenon jig. I don't know why I've put it off so long but I'm glad to have done it now.


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## jaydawg74

Steve, that looks FANTASTIC! I might even have to revise mine lol! How's it slide across the fence? I used some wax on mine.


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## Chaincarver Steve

jaydawg74 said:


> Steve, that looks FANTASTIC! I might even have to revise mine lol! How's it slide across the fence? I used some wax on mine.


Thanks. It's a nice snug fit but not too tight. It slides pretty well. I do need to wax it though for "optimal glide". 

I have the handle set far back so that the full cut can be made without having to push the sled very far forward. By the time your hand is level with the back of the blade the cut is already done. Just an ease of use thing.


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## Lowcountrygamecock

So let me ask a dumb question. What do you use a tenon jig for?


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## jaydawg74

Lowcountrygamecock said:


> So let me ask a dumb question. What do you use a tenon jig for?


For tenoning.


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## Chaincarver Steve

Lowcountrygamecock said:


> So let me ask a dumb question. What do you use a tenon jig for?


It gives you a fairly easy and safe way to cut the tenon half of a mortise and tenon joint on a table saw.


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## jaydawg74

Here ya go my friend, I made a quick version of this one....... http://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season4/403/?play=E403_Intro.flv


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## captainawesome

jaydawg, let me first thank you for the awesome and informative post about your outfeed table. As you can see, I duplicated it exactly and it works perfect for the space I have.

I did have a couple of questions for you. I like the idea of the tall auxilary fence/sacrificial fence you made, but I was wondering what the height of the tall fence is. If you built it again, would you make it taller or shorter? 

I made a sliding handle with a replaceable end block for close cuts, and I'd be happy to post some pics if you want.

Thanks again for the post!


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## jaydawg74

Sorry it awhile to respond! I'm glad my post has been useful! Your outfeed looks great! I believe my tall fence is 8". I like the height and I need to build a new one because the plywood is a little twisted on my current one. I'll make the new one the same height and trim my current one down to use as a sacrificial fence.


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## Mandres

jaydawg74 said:


> The tall fence can be turned around and the back side will be used as a sacrificial fence.


Now that's an idea that I'm going to use. I've been meaning to make a sacrificial fence for a while, and it just makes too much sense to integrate a tall fence on the other side. Thanks!


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## jaydawg74

Quick update.

Instead of having the table top screwed to the mounting rails, I drilled holes and put in some carraige bolts with some wing nuts for quick and easy removal without a drill. Now, my saw and outfeed table don't move around the shop, but hey, ya never know!


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## Dave66

I use my assembly table/workbench for outfeed and have it set ~1/4" lower than the saw table. If I'm ripping something with some flex in it (like 1/4" ply), I've had it hang up as it went onto the outfeed.

If it's slightly lower that doesn't happen and it's still supporting the board.


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## sanchez

I havent been here for a few months because I've been too busy at paying work to do any woodworking. This thread is a good find.

My wife and her parents got me the Ridgid R4512 for Christmas :thumbsup:, so this thread is very helpful. Thanks for all the ideas!


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## sailorman

Figure I'd add a couple pics of my solution to the outfeed table. I can't take credit for the folding support; I saw that somewhere, probably this forum, but couldn't find the thread.! Fortunately, I remembered what it looked like. I needed my table to be able to fold to get it out of the way and wanted the saw to be able to roll around both with the table up and/or folded. The folding support allows this. 

The biggest challenge was getting the ends of the support properly aligned so it will fold. I attached the upper end of the support using 1/4" bolts through slots into threaded inserts in the table. That allowed me to adjust it until it fit. Was a real pain.

I have the table offset to the right, since I usually cut plywood on the right and it allows me to push the saw into the space next to my RAS, with the table against the wall and the RAS table, but still able to use it for most cuts. I've routed slots in the top for the miter gauge and other jigs. Still need to edge band it.

I attached the table to a piece of 1x3 oak using toilet flange bolts, which fit perfectly into the slot under the aluminum extrusion on the back of the saw. 

This solution has worked out great for me. Wish I could remember who's idea the folding support is, so I could thank them for it; great idea..!!!


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## toolguy1000

something like that was done in woodworkers journal in either 2011 or 2012. their folding support leg was just a little better engineered, but yours came out very well and is an elegant solution to the outfeed table support conundrum.


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## snookfish

I have the same saw as well and I am definitely stealing that tenon jig. I like the tall fence as well, but I was wondering if using some T bolts to lock it down to the fence from the top would be a good idea?


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## Pirate

The jigs you made should work fine. The only thing I would change, is to make the stop block for crosscuts, 1" thick. Then you can use the fence tape to measure, and just subtract 1"


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## COamateur

*Thanks Jaydawg*

Just wanted to say thanks, Jaydawg. I used your plans and recently put this together. Your posts were a major time saver and headache preventer!

Truly appreciate it!


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## RJweb

That looks great, but I did notice that you don't use a riving knife


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