# Delta 36-714 Hybred Saw



## Undecided (May 18, 2012)

Does anyone have any experience with this saw? I have been looking for a Jet when I ran across this one; ~practically brand new~ says the ad. It does look pretty nice; I do believe it has not been used much if at all. I know it is a wired for 115 but I think it can run on 230, right? Would it be a smart thing to change it over to 230? The blogs I have read are mixed at best, most of the negative one are about the motor (1 3/4 hp) going bad quickly. It is over two hours away and I really don't want to drive that far just to say ~nope, not going to work~. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Small Shop said:


> Does anyone have any experience with this saw? I have been looking for a Jet when I ran across this one; ~practically brand new~ says the ad. It does look pretty nice; I do believe it has not been used much if at all. I know it is a wired for 115 but I think it can run on 230, right? Would it be a smart thing to change it over to 230? The blogs I have read are mixed at best, most of the negative one are about the motor (1 3/4 hp) going bad quickly. It is over two hours away and I really don't want to drive that far just to say ~nope, not going to work~. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Do you have a link or picture of the saw?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Undecided (May 18, 2012)

Here is a picture of it, along with one of the manuel


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Okay, this saw is far better than a Jet. It doesn't look used and Im almost sure it wires 220. If everything is there, one third off the lowest price would be a great place to start. Half price buy it. Ask them what they used it for and why are they selling it. Tug and pull everything you can get your hands on to see if it's sound. Look for nuts and bolts that have paint rubbed off from wrenching. Might be tell tale signs of repair.

When you get it home. Resign the time to tune it to perfection and it will stay that way for a life time. Get it off the stand and do it justice.

There are others here on the form with more experience buying used tools. Hopefully they will chime in.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Undecided (May 18, 2012)

The mobile base is what attracted me to it. My shop is a 12 x 24 tool shed that I converted in to my ~Small Shop~ as my wife calls it. I call it a man cave. The price on the saw I think is a little high, He started out at $900, I have him down to $830, I am at $750. Not sure I want it for $830 unless someone impartial can give me a good reason to re-think my offer. One review I read talked about the blade being off by .017 inches front to rear, but all they did was put a $50 blade on it and it came to with-in .003". Not sure how just changing a blade would fix that issue.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Looks pretty darn high for a used saw with no warranty. Which Jet are comparing it to? 

The Delta was a reasonably good saw, with no real serious glitches. AFAIK, the motor doesn't have systemic issues. On the plus side, it has a full enclosure, solid cast wings, and a nice Unifence, but it also has table mounted trunnions (harder to reach and adjust), and it uses connecting rods as an arbor carriage (not quite as robust as a solid cast piece). It's also old enough that it doesn't have a riving knife. The mobile base doesn't add a lot a value in the mix....maybe ~$30- $40. Plenty of new mobile bases around that'll fit for ~ $50. At the right price, it could be a nice saw. $600 is more reasonable IMO.

Frankly, at that price, I'm not seeing much benefit of the Delta over a new Grizzly G0715P, G0661, G0713, or the Craftsman 22116 made by Steel City/Orion....all with warranty, riving knives, and good fences. (all can run on 120v or 240v, all can be had for < $1000)

The Grizzly G1023RL 3hp cabinet saw would also be consideration at $1294 shipped....definitely more money, but offers a lot more saw. (needs 240v...aka 220v)

FWIW, if you have 220v available, there's next to no downside running one of these saws on it, but there can be some benefit. The benefit varies, depending on the individual circuit and the motor in question. If you don't have 220v, then it can get expensive, and you may find there's little improvement if your 120v circuit is adequate. A motor of more than 2hp draws enough amperage that it should be run on 220v.

G0715P:









22116:









G1023RL:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I used to own the Sears equivalent of this when it was first sold, back in the likes of 2005. My saw had a Biesemeyer fence. This has the Unifence. Both good fences. I prefer the Bies.

I gave my saw to a friend when I upgraded.

You should haggle more, or be prepared to walk away.

Sears has the latest version of this saw on sale for $888.24
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-1-3-4-hp-premium-hybrid-10inch-table-saw/p-00922116000P

Although the saw was not used much, things which are "used" do not have a warranty and this should be reflected in a lower selling price.

By the way, re-wiring to 220V is only worthwhile if you did not have enough amps in a 110V circuit. You will not see any difference in performance. Technically 220V runs at 1/2 the amps, so a little less heat loss when running. I do not expect you will notice this on your electric bill.


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## Undecided (May 18, 2012)

I have been looking at the Grizzly on line, not real familiar with them other than I have a used GO555 band saw. It is a ton better than the old Central Machine one I had and the price was pretty fair. Basically an even trade for an old air compressor I never used. Took me a few evenings to find out what all was wrong with it and get the parts ordered. Their Customer Service was great..very helpful...still waiting to pass judgment on the saw though. I had no specific Jet in mind, just was looking for something better than a contractors saw. I currently have an old Craftsman, maybe 35 years old. One HP makes it a little finicky when cutting some woods. It has served me well, but I want to take a step up to the next level or two, but I don't want to go over a $1000 that is why I am looking at used. I have 100 amp service to my shop so if I have to put in a 220 line for a machine or two, that would not be that difficult, but if I won't get that much better (if any) performance, then I would prefer to stay with the 110. Do the pre-wired to 220 saws work on 110? Will they need a converter to go to 110?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Small Shop said:


> The mobile base is what attracted me to it. My shop is a 12 x 24 tool shed that I converted in to my ~Small Shop~ as my wife calls it. I call it a man cave. The price on the saw I think is a little high, He started out at $900, I have him down to $830, I am at $750. Not sure I want it for $830 unless someone impartial can give me a good reason to re-think my offer. One review I read talked about the blade being off by .017 inches front to rear, but all they did was put a $50 blade on it and it came to with-in .003". Not sure how just changing a blade would fix that issue.


To me a shop should be set around its work horse, the table saw. As far as fences go. I've had both and like the Uni better. The Bes is easy to build if you don't like the Uni.

The blade should be squared to the miter slot which is part of the tune up.

Hold out for your price. You are not being unreasonable. Times are tough now I bet he has no other offers.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Small Shop said:


> ... I have 100 amp service to my shop so if I have to put in a 220 line for a machine or two, that would not be that difficult, but if I won't get that much better (if any) performance, then I would prefer to stay with the 110. Do the pre-wired to 220 saws work on 110? Will they need a converter to go to 110?


In theory, there is no difference between a 110v and 220v as far as the motor is concerned (properly known as 120v and 240v) ...each coil sees the same voltage regardless. However, in practice, there can be a noticeable difference, but it depends on your circuit and your motor. Some will notice a significant difference, some won't....as mentioned, it depends on other variables. If your 110v circuit is struggling to supply peak demands due to long runs, small wire, numerous junctions, distance from the main transformer, and/or has other appliances running off it, the saw may not be performing at full capacity, which can ultimately make your motor run hotter and shorten its life. 220v tends to have less voltage loss during peak demands, so it allows the saw to perform as expected....a proper 110v circuit could do the same thing, but many are less than ideal. You're most likely to notice a difference with 220v by way of faster startups and faster recovery from bogging down. 

A saw that's a true 2hp or more has a higher amp draw which can severely overtax most residential 110v circuits, so is best run on 220v, which is why most 110v saws top out at around 1-3/4hp. Most smaller induction motors can run on either voltage (if they're convertible). It should say in the manual or on the motor plate it's convertible. If it is, they require a simple rewiring of the motor to switch voltages (there's usually a wiring diagram on the inside of the wire junction box. You'll also normally need a new plug that's compatible with the whatever outlet you're using...no converters necessary.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

On a lot of the consumer saws the motor is set up to run on a 15-amp, 110-volt circuit or a 15-amp, 220-volt circuit. 

If you check the nameplate on the motor it will tell you how many amps the motor draws at what voltage. If the amp draw at 220-volts, is more than half the draw at 220-volts, the the motor will make more horsepower at 220-volts. The name plate on a Delta contractors saw I owned pulled 15-amps @ 110-volts, and 7.5-amps @ 220-volts. My Dad had an older Craftsman that pulled 12-amps @ 110-volts, and [email protected] 220-volts, a 30% increase in horsepower. Roughly 1.75-hp versus 2.25-hp. 

Volts multiplied by Amps equals Watts. 750- Watts is a horsepower.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Jigs, that is interesting. All the switchable motors I have seen are "recent" and were exactly 1/2 the amps for 220V vs 110V.

I will pay attention in the future to see if any extra capacity was buried in the 220V option.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I'd skip it for his price. I'd go the 22116 route if your in the 8-900 range I absolutely love mine


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## Undecided (May 18, 2012)

I have to agree about the pricing being too high. I was looking at the Grizzly 714P as suggested for about the same price. So far no one has said it is poor unit. 
My power draw in my shop is only one machine at a time, so the most I have being drawn is maybe 12 amps plus the lights. I have abundant outlets and I don't have more than 6 on any one circuit. All have 11 gauge wire and 20 amp breakers. I hate trying to stretch a cord to an outlet that is in an inconvenient location, I made sure I did not have to move more than 3 feet in any direction when I wired the shop. I suppose one circuit of 220 would not be so bad, I just wish I had put a provision in for that before I put the wafer board up.

Next question, the floor of my shop is ¾” T&G plywood laid down onto 4 x4 that are on 24” centers. If I put a 400lb say on a mobile base, how will the floor hold up? Will it delaminate?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I would not expect the floor to delaminate, but this is a WIDE span for only 3/4in plywood floor.

You will see a lot of "give" in the floor and likely find it will not be so easy to move the saw around.

I am surprised if you do not feel the "give" by just walking around.

I have 3/4in MDF with 3/4in plywood with joists on a 16in center and I feel the movement when my dog runs around......

This shop really needs another 3/4in plywood layer at least. Perhaps more.


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## Undecided (May 18, 2012)

Originally it was just a tool shed for the garden stuff and putting away the porch and deck furniture in the fall. I had planned to build a larger shop 24 x 32 with a concrete floor 3 years ago, but then the economy hit and a 20% pay cut and higher insurance payments made me re-think my plans. I was looking at it just this morning thinking about maybe putting a pad underneath it and then tearing out the floor. A lot of work to do that, but it might be the answer in a few years. I guess I am use to the floor giving a little bit when I walk across it, for now it will have to do.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I understand if this has to do for the moment, but consider NOT putting the table saw on a mobile stand. I would consider putting the saw on at least a 3/4in plywood platform. Ideally thicker.

This means you would not be able to easily move the saw. So consider placement so that it will allow most operations without needing to move the saw.

My previous table saw had a mobile base. I moved this perhaps less than a handful of times.

When I upgraded, I ended up not installing the new saw on a mobile base. So far I have been able to work around the constraints.

In my shop, if I am constrained by cutting width, such as sheet goods, I end up using a straight edge jig and circular saw.

If the piece is longer than 8ft I have to use my SCMS.

Every shop has compromises.


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## Undecided (May 18, 2012)

My shop has a very limited ~free space~ to dedicate any tool to it. All my tools currently have a mobile base of some kind. BUT none of them are even close to 400 lbs. All are under 300 if I remember correctly. What little space I do have I use as my work area moving the machine into it then back out and store al my machines along the walls and under the lumber racks I have alone one log wall. The other long wall has a 6 foot wide double door in the center so if I do anything long I just run it out the door and support it using roller stands. I really like the mobility of moving things around when I need them. The saw is the last ~large~ tool I want to replace. I have plenty of time to work thru the issues, and I thank you for your insight. I will definitely re-think how I am going to set any new saw in place.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

You could lay down some 1/2" sheet ply to add some quick and easy floor support...


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## BAD WOLF (Jan 2, 2015)

I know this is a dead thread but I just came across this Delta 10" 36-714B Hybrid Saw. Still in original packing, never been opened. Comes with Biesemeyer 30L12 Comercial Guide Set, Biesemeyer 42" Com Fence with Leg Set, and Biesemeyer Universal 27 x 14 table board all for $800. So y'all think this is a good deal. Im looking to upgrade from my Dewalt 7840 so this would be a nice upgrade.


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