# Bandsaw fence



## Malamute (Jan 30, 2013)

I just added a 6" riser block on my 14" Porter Cable bandsaw. It wasn't too difficult to put on but am now thinking I need a fence and wondering if anyone has built their own. The Kreg bandsaw fences are around $110 and think I could do it for much less on my own but not sure. 

I like the blue aluminum fence material from Rockler but does anyone else know what I would need for hardware?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*There's a whole lot of ways*

Here's some examples:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&va=bandsaw+fence

A resaw fence which you probably want will be taller of course:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...age&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&va=bandsaw+resaw+fence

They rely on a "T" square design to square it up OR if your blade has drift then you will want it "adjustable".

This one seems pretty reasonable:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kreg-KMS720...974?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d7e87f7e

I made my own for a WWT member to show how a quick and easy one could be made from 3 pieces and a bar clamp:


Not that hard to make one from a long clamp and a wooden rail with a groove along the top length to keep the clamp upright. You'd need a table saw or router to make the groove ....or glue up 3 pieces.... 2 for the outside and a narrow one for the center, a bit lower than the other 2. The center piece should be the same thickness as the bar of your clamp. Mine wasn't, so I added a green taped shim, just for this example.
All the pieces are the same length as the table. It should sit square ON the table and you can measure for square TO the table from the slot. 
 bill Attached Thumbnails


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

I recently picked up one of the magfences from Carter and I love it. It is so easy to position the fence and then activate the magnets to lock it into place. 

I have seen that you can buy just he magnets and use those in your own fence build. I also have a feather board with the same magnets and love using it in the band saw, table saw, and even the jointer.


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## Malamute (Jan 30, 2013)

Wow Woodnthings that is some pretty quick and easy work. Looks like it would be effective until I can make something more permanent. I'll look at it Masterjer, my goal is to not spend a fortune on one.


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## biggeorge50 (Apr 27, 2009)

I just use a straight board clamped to the table.


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## Malamute (Jan 30, 2013)

I actually think I will just do the same. I probably won't resaw too often but needed the height for something else. I would like to have a larger table size on the saw though since I will be cutting larger pieces, does anyone have any ideas for that?

Thank you by the way for the info, it helped me realize how simple the solution was!


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Malamute said:


> I actually think I will just do the same. I probably won't resaw too often but needed the height for something else. I would like to have a larger table size on the saw though since I will be cutting larger pieces, does anyone have any ideas for that?
> 
> Thank you by the way for the info, it helped me realize how simple the solution was!


Actually the fence is only part of what is needed to resaw. The right blade makes a big difference. Without it, resawing with a fence is almost impossible.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Malamute (Jan 30, 2013)

What blades are recommended for resawing? Is there one that can be used for both general purpose cutting as well as resawing?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Malamute said:


> What blades are recommended for resawing? Is there one that can be used for both general purpose cutting as well as resawing?


To answer your second question, no. They are built much like table saw blades. One size can fit all but will also will preform most tasks just okay. I'm not as experienced as some here but the resaw blade is one that is wide and has less teeth per inch. 

When resawing the blade wants to flex backward. resulting in the blade curving one way or the other. requiring the wood to be pointed one direction or the other to compensate, which can't be done when using a fence. 

There have been threads on this subject recently and I'm hoping others here chime in because they are better at posting links that will help you alleviate a great deal of headaches and unsatisfactory results. Try a search here on the subject. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*lot's of resawing threads here*

How to make jigs and carriages for it., what blades to use, etc.

Here's thread I started where I did a lot of bandsaw work:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/baileigh-contest-woodnthings-entry-51174/

I use a 3 TPI blade, either 1/2" or 3/4" wide for my resawing operations. You need more tension for a wider blade like 3/4" to keep it stiff which is the secret of resawing as well as fewer teeth to help clean out the sawdust. The "set" of the teeth is greater on a resaw blade than a general purpose blade with more teeth. The smallest blade I use for "tight" radius cuts is 1/4" wide and 6 teeth per inch. 

Since I hate changing blades on any saw, I have acquired more than one bandsaw. On the 14" Craftsman saws I use a 1/2" wide blade, on the little 10" saw I got for my son years ago, I use a 1/4" or 3/8" blade. On the 18" MinMax I keep a 3/4" Timberwolf # TPI blade. Resaw sleds here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/resaw-sled-7552/


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Al B Thayer said:


> When resawing the blade wants to flex backward. resulting in the blade curving one way or the other. requiring the wood to be pointed one direction or the other to compensate, which can't be done when using a fence.


Years ago, I was at a fellows place, buying some rough cut wood. He had a band saw with about a 2" blade for resaw. I can't remember if he didn't have a thrust bearing, or if it was just backed off. I asked about it, and he said he didn't want the blade pivoting on it's back edge, causing the cut to wander. I guess it worked for him.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Pirate said:


> Years ago, I was at a fellows place, buying some rough cut wood. He had a band saw with about a 2" blade for resaw. I can't remember if he didn't have a thrust bearing, or if it was just backed off. I asked about it, and he said he didn't want the blade pivoting on it's back edge, causing the cut to wander. I guess it worked for him.


If I could get a 2" wide blade on my saw for resawing I would.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Makita made them*

http://www.oxide.org/bandsaw/

Ebay has one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Makita-2-wide-blade-Resaw-bandsaw-model-2116-/151149767458


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

Malamute said:


> I just added a 6" riser block on my 14" Porter Cable bandsaw. It wasn't too difficult to put on but am now thinking I need a fence and wondering if anyone has built their own. The Kreg bandsaw fences are around $110 and think I could do it for much less on my own but not sure.
> 
> I like the blue aluminum fence material from Rockler but does anyone else know what I would need for hardware?


 It's nice to make your own and save money but I love my Kreg and use it almost daily.


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## Malamute (Jan 30, 2013)

I would have liked to just make one out of the blue Rockler fencing but don't know if there is a piece to attach to the saw...I'll search more


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Malamute said:


> I would have liked to just make one out of the blue Rockler fencing but don't know if there is a piece to attach to the saw...I'll search more


Have you come up with a fence yet, I made one yesterday using a couple old hard drive magnets that work great. I assume you could buy some magnets if you don't have any, but the old hard drive mags are freaky strong and as long as you leave the thickness of the magnets below the fence and the table you'll have the room to rotate/rock the fence enough to break the grip and pull off or move the fence. Here the link to my fence with some pics...

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/home-made-magnetic-bandsaw-fence-58276/


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

You can use a piece of wood clamped to the bs, as a fence. It's just as convenient as using a piece of wood for a fence on your ts. I did it before getting a real fence.

Magnetic fence? How do you make sure it's aligned with the blade? (or drift line) Compared to just sliding a fence and pushing the lock lever down, (a couple of seconds) like a Bies, ts fence, it seems it would take much longer to set. 

Assuming you have the table marked with the blade drift angle, setting a clamp on, or magnetiic fence, would require measuring at front and back of the table. Like using a crappy ts fence. Why bother? A real fence on a bs, to me, is as important as a good ts fence.

I use a Jet 16" bs fence on my Delta 14" bs.
It's a t square style fence, like a Bies. It's a pleasure to use.

Is there an advantage to a magnetic fence?


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Pirate said:


> You can use a piece of wood clamped to the bs, as a fence. It's just as convenient as using a piece of wood for a fence on your ts. I did it before getting a real fence.
> 
> Magnetic fence? How do you make sure it's aligned with the blade? (or drift line) Compared to just sliding a fence and pushing the lock lever down, (a couple of seconds) like a Bies, ts fence, it seems it would take much longer to set.
> 
> ...


My band saw table is small, so just use my 12 inch sliding combination square. I measure from table edge to the blade, then set it for the thickness I want plus that blade distance. Set the fence close, then just tap it to the end of the CS front and back. Takes just a few sec. I like the mag thing , one because it was free...lol...and it is fairly quick, nothing to tighten down. I am lucky I have an old shopsmith with the band saw attachment, and it is dead on, no blade lead at all, but even it had some, with the mag fence just tap it on one end or the other to compensate for the lead. The other thing is when I don't need it, just pull it off and slap it onto the saw frame, stored and out of the way. Works for me, I don't know that would use it on a table saw. In my case that decision was made already, my TS is aluminum table...lol...odd that Shopsmith made the TS out of aluminum and the BS table out of iron, but they did...


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

GoNavy429 said:


> My band saw table is small, so just use my 12 inch sliding combination square. I measure from table edge to the blade, then set it for the thickness I want plus that blade distance. Set the fence close, then just tap it to the end of the CS front and back. Takes just a few sec. I like the mag thing , one because it was free...lol...and it is fairly quick, nothing to tighten down. I am lucky I have an old shopsmith with the band saw attachment, and it is dead on, no blade lead at all, but even it had some, with the mag fence just tap it on one end or the other to compensate for the lead. The other thing is when I don't need it, just pull it off and slap it onto the saw frame, stored and out of the way. Works for me, I don't know that would use it on a table saw. In my case that decision was made already, my TS is aluminum table...lol...odd that Shopsmith made the TS out of aluminum and the BS table out of iron, but they did...


So, if you saw has blade lead, and lets say you want to resaw a 1/2 piece. How do you set the fence to the proper angle, for blade lead? With a typical bs fence, you set it once, to blade lead, and every time you move it, it's always set for the blade lead. Seems like a time saver to me.
I like making jigs, fences, etc, but not for my bs. Unless I wanted to do a serious metal fence.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Pirate said:


> So, if you saw has blade lead, and lets say you want to resaw a 1/2 piece. How do you set the fence to the proper angle, for blade lead? With a typical bs fence, you set it once, to blade lead, and every time you move it, it's always set for the blade lead. Seems like a time saver to me.
> I like making jigs, fences, etc, but not for my bs. Unless I wanted to do a serious metal fence.


So you just tap it over a little more for blade lead. Look I never said this would work as good as a $150 jet fence, I said it was FREE that's it, of course it requires some work to make it work, not much, but some. You don't like it, I get it, but some folks don't have the money to buy the best and fastest most accurate in the world. Some people like me don't use a band saw often enough to justify spending money on a fence. I just thought someone might be interested in a cheap or free if you have the parts fence that works just fine. If this offends you I am sorry, just don't use it, personally I don't care if anybody uses it, works for me, that's all I care about...just because you don't like it, doesn't make it useless


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

GoNavy429 said:


> So you just tap it over a little more for blade lead. Look I never said this would work as good as a $150 jet fence, I said it was FREE that's it, of course it requires some work to make it work, not much, but some. You don't like it, I get it, but some folks don't have the money to buy the best and fastest most accurate in the world. Some people like me don't use a band saw often enough to justify spending money on a fence. I just thought someone might be interested in a cheap or free if you have the parts fence that works just fine. If this offends you I am sorry, just don't use it, personally I don't care if anybody uses it, works for me, that's all I care about...just because you don't like it, doesn't make it useless


Price of a fence has nothing to do with my question. If you want to know. I paid $60 shipped for the fence.

When I adjust a fence (any bs fence) for blade lead, I adjust it to the angle needed, as determined by a test cut. "Tap it over a little more" doesn't set it to the blade lead angle. It just moves it a little more.

Your idea isn't "useless" it's just not precise.


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## Malamute (Jan 30, 2013)

GoNavy 429; I think that is a great way to improvise a nice workable fence. I don't really think I would do a lot of resawing either which is precisely why I asked about making a cheaper fence rather than buying one for $130! That is a no-brainer, obviously I am capable of finding one and just buying it..Seems like no matter what you post there is always someone who just misses some of the points. 
My original post asks if anyone has made their own and if they know if Rockler sells any hardware to attach to a bandsaw. I use my bandsaw for cutting shapes much more than straight edges.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Pirate said:


> When I adjust a fence (any bs fence) for blade lead, I adjust it to the angle needed, as determined by a test cut. "Tap it over a little more" doesn't set it to the blade lead angle. It just moves it a little more.
> 
> Your idea isn't "useless" it's just not precise.


I cut an 1/8 inch spline perfectly, I don't know how much more precise it can get, it took me like 25 sec to set the fence for the cut, so I think it is both precise and quick, just not in the way some folks would like, even if I had a fence you just move and slap a handle to set, that had all kind precise measuring guage on it, I am still gonna check it with a square and measure to the blade. So if I am still going to measure, why not just go ahead and set the fence then, tapping it into the precise place I want it, only requires a few secs to do. This isn't the end all be all to BS fences, just a quick free fence that is usable, the precises comes into how you measure, I don't care what kind of fence you have.

To answer your question, it has two magnets, tapping on one end or the other of the fence moves it off parallel, thus adjusts for blade lead, Well I have to reset it every time..yes..even few months when I use this I'll have re-set it. Of course if you properly set up a band saw, ie adjust all the blade guides and tension, I suspect like mine, you won't have any blade lead. 

I had terrible blade lead, put a new blade in, cleaned out the inside, cleaned up the rubber pulley bands, pulled, cleaned adjusted all the blade stop blocks and guides, all this took about 30 minutes and sure enough, no more blade lead.

Malamute - Thank You, I am glad you get it, since you are (folks like you) the ones I posted it for....


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## Midwest Millworks (Nov 20, 2012)

All bandsaw blades will have some drift. Even two identical blades from the same manufacturer will have different drift angles. Some fences have drift adjustment and some don't. I'll never understand why a manufacturer would build a bandsaw fence that can't be adjusted for blade drift, but they are out there.

Magnetic fences like the Carter are good fences, but because they are independent as opposed to being mounted to a rail, the drift adjustment will have to be reset each time the fence is moved. The angle could be measured with a protractor for repeatable settings. 

To set/measure drift angle, use a straight edge to draw a line on a board parallel to the boards left edge. Next cut along the line freehand for about four inches then stop. Leave the board in that position. Turn the saw off and allow the blade to stop. The angle of the left edge of the board is the drift angle for that blade. Anytime the fence is repositioned, it needs to be set at that angle.

If you have a traditional fence mounted on a rail, make a four inch long cut using the fence to guide the board. After cutting the board, turn off the saw and allow the blade to stop. Next adjust the angle of the fence until the rear of the blade is centered inside the kerf then lock down the fence adjustment. Reposition the fence and make another cut. Stop the saw again and check the back of the blade. If it's centered in the kerf nofurther adjustment is needed. If not, repeat previous adjustment until the blade tracks in the center of the kerf.

Mike Darr


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*no drift bandsaws*

My saws don't drift or need compensation by adjusting the fence out of parallel. They just don't and here some links to read about how to get those results:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/make-drift-a-myth

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?25827-Band-saw-blade-drift-solved






You Tube at 17:50:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...qWac0jU#t=1063


Drift is a result of uneven set of the teeth, including more dull on one side,
inadequate blade tension on the blade, a blade that's too wide, and whether the blade's gullets are centered on the crown of the wheel. If you are experiencing drift this explains how to compensate for it:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/bsblddrft.html

If drift was a given, then bandsaw mills wouldn't be able to cut a straight plank with parallel sides...just sayin'


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## Midwest Millworks (Nov 20, 2012)

LOL.

Mike Darr


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Alex Snodgrass Video*

"There should never be drift on a bandsaw, never" 17:50 into it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=wGbZqWac0jU#t=1063

here's a source for a "better blade"
http://thebetterblade.com/media


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Midwest Millworks said:


> LOL.


What do you find funny here?

Bills advice seems spot on to me. :yes:


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## Midwest Millworks (Nov 20, 2012)

The way things happen on a drawing board and the way they happen in reality are two different things. If drift doesn't exist, then why do so many guys struggle correcting it? I know for a fact that it does exist. I have it on both of my bandsaws. Sometimes you may get lucky and not need to adjust for drift, although pretty rare. 

Bill was correct about what causes drift. Drift is caused by the set of the teeth (if that blade has any set), and also a dull, or dulling blade. These are things that we as woodworkers can't control, so the result is blade drift, so we correct for that.

Here is what I found comical. I wrote a detailed post on how to correct for drift. Very simple procedure, that takes very little time, then the next post is somebody saying drift doesn't exist. I guess me, and everybody else that it happens too is just imagining it. 

On my big saw I can correct for drift in less than 30 seconds. On my little saw, it may take about 1 minute. I don't have to build any jigs out of fence parts or anything else and neither does anybody else.

Blade drift is not a bad thing. It is just something that happens, and when it does we correct for it, and continue on cutting. 

Anybody is welcome in my shop anytime if they would like to see how I make corrections for drift. I am able to cut veneers that are .020" thick then entire length and width of the veneer, and the veneers are smooth as glass right off the saw. Every other bandsaw owner can get the same results with the correct setup. 

Mike Darr


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Midwest Millworks said:


> Here is what I found comical. I wrote a detailed post on how to correct for drift. Very simple procedure, that takes very little time, then the next post is somebody saying drift doesn't exist. I guess me, and everybody else that it happens too is just imagining it.


I didn't see where anyone said drift doesn't exist. It was stated that you should never have to deal with it, by correcting for it.

I believe you and Bill are basically saying the same thing. Just two different explanations/solutions to the same problem.

Thanx for your reply. :smile:


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

It appears we have run into thread drift....:laughing:...because we are way off topic from the OP, how we correct for that.....


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

GoNavy429 said:


> It appears we have run into thread drift....:laughing:...because we are way off topic from the OP, how we correct for that.....



ahh... Quit making stupid posts?... :smile:


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