# Built-in Bookcases



## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

Finally getting around to posting some pictures of my new build-in bookcases that are currently in the works. Well, lets jump to the action.

Some of you may remember this from the "plans" forum, but this is the main idea. I changed some of the structure on the fly.









Next it was demoing the old bookcases. These measure 3.5 feet in width...just way to wide to store books on. The face frames were nicely done with dowels, but the boxes; not so much. Butt joints and some nails. We believe the bookcases were original to our house.









I than built a nice sturdy support structure for the three lower cabinets. The electrical outlet is being moved up the wall.









Building the lower cabinet carcasses. Pretty simple. Dropped an nice rabbet in the back and added a dado for the bottom shelf. 









Test fit time! We decided to take the over all space and maximize our storage space. So, the face frames will over hang quite a bit. 









Time to trim in out. I added solid poplar face frame and added some cove trim to create "columns".


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

Next up were the uppers. These measure 60"(H) x 30"(W) x 12"(D). I was able to get all of the side and top panels out of two sheets of birch ply, along with the "counter top".










Next was drilling all of the holes for the shelf pins. Each cabinet has 30 holes. So, better get to drilling...that 480 holes to be done.









I'm not sure if this is the correct way to build these or not, but it seemed logical. I cut a rabbet in the back edge of the side and top panels. This rabbet is just under an inch deep. This will hold the back of the bookcase along with the mounting cleats. The cleats will be hidden behind the back panels of each bookcase.









On to assembling. I thought about using dadoes and gluing the upper carcasses together, but I really didn't want to wait on the glue to dry. So, I resorted to the hated pocket screws.









Test fit. So far everything looks pretty good.


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

I am about to do a very similar project and it will be a first for me. I like some of the things you did. For what it's worth, I'm not planning on rabbiting the backs of my uppers since you can't see the sides of my cases either. And I am going to pocket screw the mounting cleats flush with the back of the case and not hide them. Then I'll just lay the back on and flush trim it with a rounter. I know many have no love for pocket screws but I think things like case assembly and face frames are perfect for pocket screws. Quick, no need for glue to dry, and hidden from sight. Looks good, keep us posted.


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

Thanks Learns.

This is a first for me also. I'm just a hobby guy. The cleats in the lowers are visible from the inside of the cabinets and I used pocket screws to attach those to the sides of the cabinets.

When I built the uppers, I didn't want the cleats to be visible from the front. You can't see the sides of my cabinets either, but I thought the cleats would detract from the aesthetic of the uppers. So, I decided to hide them behind the back panel.


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## SevenPin (Dec 15, 2009)

Very nice! I have a couple of spots on either side of the fireplace that we have contemplated putting bookshelves in. If you don't mind, I would like to "borrow" your ideas and see what SWMBO thinks about them.

Thanks

SevenPin


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## gus1962 (Jan 9, 2013)

Looks like a great plan and pretty awesome progress! Well done .


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

Seven, go for it! Isn't sharing ideas and techniques the whole reason why we are all here?



SevenPin said:


> Very nice! I have a couple of spots on either side of the fireplace that we have contemplated putting bookshelves in. If you don't mind, I would like to "borrow" your ideas and see what SWMBO thinks about them.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> SevenPin


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

So, I was able to get some work done this past weekend. It is finally starting to come together. I had my friend bring over his table saw and I was finally able to get the remaining pieces cut.

So lets get to it. 

We started off by building the face frames. These are made from 1x6 poplar that are just butt jointed with pocket screws.









Next we trimmed out the fronts of the face frames. We got the fluted trim from the Big Orange Box as a door trim kit. I probably should have checked with my local builder supply first...but the kit was only $20. Also added some crown trim to the top. There is a piece of 1x3 poplar behind the trim to push the crown out to the edge of the rosettes.









We than cut down the last sheet of birch ply to make the upper shelves. Here is a photo of a few being test fit. 









Close up of the upper shelf face meeting the face frame. 









Test fitting the upper shelves.


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## Rashed (Oct 15, 2012)

Looking good, just an advice dont keep that blue tape longer than you need to, it says on it that it should be fine to keep it not longer than 60 days, but i left it for only 2 weeks and it took off the paint while i was trying to removed it.


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

Looking great. Two quick questions. Are you going to put in trim between the rosettes to fill the shadow line? Dental moulding might look good. Also, can you still move the shelves with the shelf faces that tight to the face frame? I had planned to put the shelf faces all the way accross the shelf it's self and have it completely behind the face frame. You got me thinking. Now I gotta go look at some shelf pictures.


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

LearnByDoing said:


> Looking great. Two quick questions. Are you going to put in trim between the rosettes to fill the shadow line? Dental moulding might look good. Also, can you still move the shelves with the shelf faces that tight to the face frame? I had planned to put the shelf faces all the way accross the shelf it's self and have it completely behind the face frame. You got me thinking. Now I gotta go look at some shelf pictures.


As for the moulding between the rosettes, I haven't thought of that. The wife did say no to dental moulding. Maybe I can find some thin molding to go in there. 

As for the shelf faces, you can still move them with it being that tight. There one in the far right upper isn't as tight. I do need to trim the back of the shelf though. My wife and I actually went out and looked at some furniture and we decided that the shelf faces would look better this way. It really is all personal preference.


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

liquid6 said:


> As for the moulding between the rosettes, I haven't thought of that. The wife did say no to dental moulding. Maybe I can find some thin molding to go in there.
> 
> As for the shelf faces, you can still move them with it being that tight. There one in the far right upper isn't as tight. I do need to trim the back of the shelf though. My wife and I actually went out and looked at some furniture and we decided that the shelf faces would look better this way. It really is all personal preference.


That's the interesting thing about these projects. It's the little details that only people who build them would notice. I am going to look at some shelves too and see what I thing.

As for between the rosettes, another option would be a simple cove moulding. I'm sure you'll come up with something. Keep us posted. Are you going with doors down below?


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

LearnByDoing said:


> That's the interesting thing about these projects. It's the little details that only people who build them would notice. I am going to look at some shelves too and see what I thing.
> 
> As for between the rosettes, another option would be a simple cove moulding. I'm sure you'll come up with something. Keep us posted. Are you going with doors down below?


I'll probably pick up some cove molding this weekend. That seems like a quick, simple and clean transition. 

Doors are going to go below. Full overlay, cope and stick with raised panels and euro hinges. I will have them made. I don't have the money to drop on the bits right now. I can get them made for less than the cost of a good router bit kit.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Looks good so far. Just a note about the 2x4 toe kick. I use just ¾" plywood for that. Plywood will stay straight, and not warp like 2x4's can. As for between the rosettes, cut samples of what you may want to use. Some mouldings may look like interrupts as part of the bottom of the crown. Nothing wrong IMO with shadows. 

Another suggestion to consider. At the base of the pilasters, a small plinth block can sometimes add some visual appeal, like this. What you have there looks very clean, and you may not like the idea.









 







.


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

So I decided to leave the shadows. I liked the clean look that the "built out" part provided. 

Cabinetman. I toiled with that for about a week (while I was waiting on my electrician to come so I could set the uppers). I thought about using the type of plinth that is at the very bottom. I honestly didn't know what to do.

Having the plinth down there probably would have made for an easier transition too.

PS> I hate finishing/painting!


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## Rockerbox1 (Jan 21, 2011)

this project is coming together very nicely. I like built ins


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## Sean G. (Feb 6, 2013)

Good job on maximizing your space. I love what you're doing with the bookcase. Love the color and the design.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Your cabinets look very nice!

Thanks for posting. It's nice seeing some different ideas. Built in bookshelves are one of the things I want to do in my basement this year.


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

Just wanting to let every one know that this is still in progress and I didn't give up. I ordered my doors. Standard rail and stile raised panel construction with euro hinges. 

After a few adjustments to the shelves, everything now fits nice and snug. 

I have been in painting hell for the past few weekends. I really, really hate the finishing part.


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

*Finally Done*

I finally wrapped up this project last weekend. I don't own a sprayer yet, so this entire job was hand painted. Four coats total, two coats of primer and two coats of semi-gloss white interior trim paint. 

I'm really please with how this job turned out. 

Painting all the shelves, 15 in total. 









Built in drying racks.









Everything painted. I did have to make some adjustments to the shelf faces. They were just a little too tight. 









Doors! I purchased these from a local supplier. For the money, they were well worth the investment. 









Doors painted. 









Installing the doors. The doors were pre-drilled. Hung with euro style hidden hinges. 









Finished! I got a larger face plate to cover the gap by the outlet.


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

For all you pros out there. What would you charge for something like this? Do you think it would add something to the over all home price? I'm just curious.


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## L1011 (Feb 18, 2013)

Congrats on a job well done. They look great.


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## against_the_grain (Aug 15, 2010)

Great looking units. Job very well done. Thanks for sharing this.


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## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

liquid6 said:


> I finally wrapped up this project last weekend. I don't own a sprayer yet, so this entire job was hand painted. Four coats total, two coats of primer and two coats of semi-gloss white interior trim paint.
> 
> I'm really please with how this job turned out.
> 
> ...


It looks very nice. Is this your home or another job? Thanks for sharing.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

vursenbach said:


> It looks very nice. Is this your home or another job? Thanks for sharing.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


This is my house. I'm not a pro. I just do this for fun. Can't turn another hobby into a job.


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

Turned out great! Nicely done sir.


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## JakeAnderton920 (Apr 17, 2013)

Nicely done!


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

You do nice work bud. Thanks for sharing.


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