# Finishing a spalted maple counter top.



## Nick Sandmann (Oct 24, 2014)

I had an interesting question from a co-worker today. She is building a house and purchased a large spalted maple slab that was made into a counter top in her kitchen and she is trying to figure out what to finish it with. She doesn't want anything shiny, so a matte or satin finish is a must, and she wants to to look as close to the raw/natural wood look as possible. she does not want the worm holes "filled" either so no special slurries to fill them are required.

My initial thoughts were a satin oil based poly since we are talking about a counter top, but I am curious what other options might be a good idea here.

What would the larger community do for finishing a counter top like this?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Well first, wood counter tops don't do very well and for someone to put very little finish on it is asking for a never ending refinishing project. The worm holes should be filled even if it is with something dark. It would be a way for water to get into the wood and further rot. Incidentally, spalting is an early stage of rot so the rotting shouldn't be helped. For the criteria she is wanting I would at least put two coats of gloss polyurethane on it followed by a coat of satin polyurethane. It may be more of an emulsion than she wants but a counter needs it.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

I've used two styles of finishing for wood tops....1) is multiple thinned coats of clear Deft brushing lacquer topped with a hand rubbed wax finish as these tables...

















2) is waterlox which is already super thin and requires multiple coats also. It can be final coated with which sheen you desire as this spalted buckeye countertop with regular finish.... This is easier to repair if finish is damaged.









..and a tulip poplar sink top....









The MOST important thing ....IS the slab PROPERLY DRY????? DON'T skimp the drying or they'll be hades to pay in headaches!!!! THE most common error made with slab tops!!

Check out my website below.


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

Tim:Those slabs look beautiful.I have spent many years doing high end custom woodwork but my taste leans toward the live edge style and build my own projects that way when I can find the correct wood in this area.
As far as the countertops.I agree with filling the imperfections with something .I would then seal with a blonde shellac and coat with a satin marine finish.For a table of sorts the imperfections add to the character but for a countertop around water it will be a disaster.


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## Nick Sandmann (Oct 24, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> Well first, wood counter tops don't do very well and for someone to put very little finish on it is asking for a never ending refinishing project. The worm holes should be filled even if it is with something dark. It would be a way for water to get into the wood and further rot. Incidentally, spalting is an early stage of rot so the rotting shouldn't be helped. For the criteria she is wanting I would at least put two coats of gloss polyurethane on it followed by a coat of satin polyurethane. It may be more of an emulsion than she wants but a counter needs it.


Could you please elaborate on the need for gloss poly and then a coat of satin? I'm not following what the difference between why 2 coats of gloss + 1 coat of satin vs. just doing 3 coats of satin would have any added benefits.

Is there really that much of a difference in protection between satin and gloss polyurethane?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Nick Sandmann said:


> Could you please elaborate on the need for gloss poly and then a coat of satin? I'm not following what the difference between why 2 coats of gloss + 1 coat of satin vs. just doing 3 coats of satin would have any added benefits.
> 
> Is there really that much of a difference in protection between satin and gloss polyurethane?


In the chemistry of a satin finish it is the same product as the gloss poly with the exception that it has a flattening powder added to it which looks like baby powder. This powder floats to the surface and kills the sheen. This powder in the finish also makes the finish less water resistant and also can make the finish cloudy with multiple coats. When you start with gloss you create a clearer more waterproof base than if you used satin only. When the time comes the finish fails it's better for the top coat to fail than for the finish to fail all the way to the wood where perhaps it gets water stains into the wood to deal with.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Steve Neul said:


> In the chemistry of a satin finish it is the same product as the gloss poly with the exception that it has a flattening powder added to it which looks like baby powder. This powder floats to the surface and kills the sheen. This powder in the finish also makes the finish less water resistant and also can make the finish cloudy with multiple coats. When you start with gloss you create a clearer more waterproof base than if you used satin only. When the time comes the finish fails it's better for the top coat to fail than for the finish to fail all the way to the wood where perhaps it gets water stains into the wood to deal with.


Never heard it explained that way before...I'm not a chemist but from the way it was told to me was they both have the same protection ...it's when you put multi layers of satin on, the finish produces a deep milky look which is mostly unpleasing to look at and you "lose" the grain....so by doing multi layers of gloss you not only build up a clear base but your also enhancing the grains and character in depth of the wood and the final satin is the sheen you desire. I've never read in any of the manufactures paperwork that they are differ in protection.

Curious now:huh::blink::yes:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Tennessee Tim said:


> Never heard it explained that way before...I'm not a chemist but from the way it was told to me was they both have the same protection ...it's when you put multi layers of satin on, the finish produces a deep milky look which is mostly unpleasing to look at and you "lose" the grain....so by doing multi layers of gloss you not only build up a clear base but your also enhancing the grains and character in depth of the wood and the final satin is the sheen you desire. I've never read in any of the manufactures paperwork that they are differ in protection.
> 
> Curious now:huh::blink::yes:


A satin finish doesn't offer the same protection. The flatter any finish is the less moisture resistant it is.


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## Nick Sandmann (Oct 24, 2014)

Good to know. Thank you for the detailed explanation!


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Tennessee Tim said:


> Never heard it explained that way before...I'm not a chemist but from the way it was told to me was they both have the same protection ...it's when you put multi layers of satin on, the finish produces a deep milky look which is mostly unpleasing to look at and you "lose" the grain....so by doing multi layers of gloss you not only build up a clear base but your also enhancing the grains and character in depth of the wood and the final satin is the sheen you desire. I've never read in any of the manufactures paperwork that they are differ in protection.
> 
> Curious now:huh::blink::yes:


A finish that is not a high gloss contains "silica" which is the flattening agent that is put into clears to lower its sheen. Some are really fluffy as Steve said, some are heavier which go into UV systems. Once added, the clears are ran in a mixing tank for anywhere from 30 minutes to 1 hour until they achieve a "grind" or in other words, until the material is clean when pulled down on a grind bar in the facilities testing lab before proceeding with the rest of the materials in that specific formula.

A gloss finish will last longer than a lower sheen as well as what Steve said. The only problem with a gloss finish is when a clear high-gloss finish loses its gloss, it’s time to recoat, as that means the UV absorbers on the surface have worn out, and the coating has reached its life expectancy. If not recoated, the ultraviolet from the sun will continue to break down the protection and begin to bleach the underlying wood, and then it won’t look pretty any more. This especially happens on outdoor finishes, it just takes alot longer for this reaction to happen on indoor finishes unless its subject to direct sunlight. So in saying that, they both have ups and downs eventually.

As for the the OP's question, I suggest 2 coats of a precat lacquer in a 3-5 sheen if they can spray apply. Nothing wrong with waterlox either.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I have had the same understanding about satin finishes and I've also read they're softer. I have done finishes where I've done multiple coats of gloss followed by a coat of satin and it turned out fine. But, I've also found it pretty easy to buff gloss to satin and it looks much, much better looking. One of the things I like about Waterlox is that it builds gloss as you add coats. When you like what you see you just stop adding coats.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Quickstep said:


> I have had the same understanding about satin finishes and I've also read they're softer. I have done finishes where I've done multiple coats of gloss followed by a coat of satin and it turned out fine. But, I've also found it pretty easy to buff gloss to satin and it looks much, much better looking. One of the things I like about Waterlox is that it builds gloss as you add coats. When you like what you see you just stop adding coats.


The only problem with that philosophy is if you apply too many coats with a thick enough build it will crack, just like nitrocellulose.


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## Grozzler (May 21, 2015)

I have a outdoor table all made up and stained. What would you recommend to put on it for its finish for outdoor use?


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## PJ01 (Feb 3, 2013)

I would strongly recommend using a Livos product made in Germany and distributed world wide. It is the Kunos Countertop Oil #243, an eco friendly heat resistant oil designed for counter tops. I have used it successfully on huon pine coasters that are used to hold hot cups of tea and coffee. I have no connection with the company, but thought that this would meet your needs perfectly. you can alter the lustre and feel of the finish on your timber with additional coats rubbed on. It is so easy to apply, and can be easily re-applied at a later date to rejuvinate the finish if necessary


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## [email protected] (Apr 27, 2012)

You're drifting away from the early question and answers. The reason ONLY the final coat should be "satin" is this: If you put multiple coats of satin or even semi-gloss on initially is that the dulling agent makes all the coats look muddy. Multiple coats of muddy undercoats detracts from the beauty and grain of the underlying wood. Only the final coat should be anything but clear gloss.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Finish*



Quickstep said:


> I have had the same understanding about satin finishes and I've also read they're softer. I have done finishes where I've done multiple coats of gloss followed by a coat of satin and it turned out fine. But, I've also found it pretty easy to buff gloss to satin and it looks much, much better looking. One of the things I like about Waterlox is that it builds gloss as you add coats. When you like what you see you just stop adding coats.


Im in total agreement to buff the final finish to your desired sheen on furniture. For a large cabinet job, it's much easier to use Satin as your final coat of finish. 
Regardless of the finish choice, I'm of the opinion that a spalted wood is a poor choice for a counter top. IMO a better choice wood have been a coffee table.


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## Tmcmski59 (Jun 19, 2018)

Quickstep said:


> I have had the same understanding about satin finishes and I've also read they're softer. I have done finishes where I've done multiple coats of gloss followed by a coat of satin and it turned out fine. But, I've also found it pretty easy to buff gloss to satin and it looks much, much better looking. One of the things I like about Waterlox is that it builds gloss as you add coats. When you like what you see you just stop adding coats.


 . I would use after your stain or finish a resin epoxy made for countertops they are strong durable and can take the heat! Try Stone coat products they are safe and easy to use


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