# Sad Day/Happy Day



## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Just sold my Craftsman Hybrid Table Saw 152_221140. I really loved using that saw. I hated to get rid of it. Once I started using the Thin Kerf Rip blades, it really did well, until I got into the 2-3" thick figured maples. The 1.5HP was not enough power.:sad: Well, I think that it went to a good home, so that is good.

So, I ordered a Grizzly 1023RLWX with a 5HP motor. :icon_smile: I am scheduled to pick it up on Monday (3/30/2015) in Bellingham, WA. It is only a four and a half hour drive one way from Portland,Or. It will be a long day of I-5 driving, but it should be worth it. Of course, the Grizzly Showroom is always a fun place to visit, especially when I am picking up a new tool.

Anyone else have a Grizzly 1023RLWX? I appreciate any tips, or gotcha's that you want to share.


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## honesttjohn (Jan 27, 2015)

Hurry up and go get that sucker. That shop floor needs some dust on it and some project stuff laying around!!!!!!

HJ


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Congrats. I have the RL and love it. One thing that got me was that the instructions are spread out over 3 or 4 manuals. Each is a bit different and occasionally contradictory. So, I'd get all the manuals and read them together before starting assembly. The good news is assembly was pretty obvious and the manuals just confused me. 

They recommend getting a helper when putting the wings on but I just used sawhorses and blocks to get the wings approximately correct before bolting. It worked pretty easy. Almost went and bought a harbor freight hydraulic lift. I was way too impatient to get help.

If you got a mobile base (I have the shopfox one they recommend) you can assemble it around the machine rather than having to lift it up onto the assembled base.


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## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

honesttjohn said:


> Hurry up and go get that sucker. That shop floor needs some dust on it and some project stuff laying around!!!!!!
> 
> HJ


Just from looking at the pictures I don't think dust gets on the floor. :thumbsup: For long anyway.

That is a nice saw you sold. You really had it fixed up and I can see why you hated to let it go.

Don


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Congrats on the pending bear purchase. As for you old saw, I've had that exact saw for 3 years now & I love it. I bought it off CL. It was about 5 years old, but had never been used. It actually had the plastic coating on the surface & blade. Some day I'll outgrow it, though that may be a while.

Mark


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

honesttjohn said:


> Hurry up and go get that sucker. That shop floor needs some dust on it and some project stuff laying around!!!!!!HJ


 Yeah, I hear ya! There is a king size headboard off to the left side that I have been working on. I started the mortises last week and will have to wait until the new saw gets up and running so I can finish the tenons.

I the mean time, I still have some logs to cut in half with the chain saw and then quartersaw on my band saw. There is always fun things to do in my shop.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Congrats. I have the RL and love it.


That makes me feel better. It is good to know that at least one person loves their G1023.



PhilBa said:


> One thing that got me was that the instructions are spread out over 3 or 4 manuals. Each is a bit different and occasionally contradictory. So, I'd get all the manuals and read them together before starting assembly. The good news is assembly was pretty obvious and the manuals just confused me.


Interesting. I have already read through the manual on-line, before I decided to purchase the G1023. It looked pretty straight forward to me. Would you take a look at the on-line manual (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-5-HP-240V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RLWX) and see if it is different than yours? Fill me in, if I am missing something.



PhilBa said:


> They recommend getting a helper when putting the wings on but I just used sawhorses and blocks to get the wings approximately correct before bolting. It worked pretty easy. Almost went and bought a harbor freight hydraulic lift. I was way too impatient to get help.


That is good to know. I used a couple of jointed boards with clamps to get my extension tables installed on the Craftsman. The tables lined up perfectly with that technique on the Craftsman. I am hoping that technique will work with the Grizzly also.



PhilBa said:


> If you got a mobile base (I have the shopfox one they recommend) you can assemble it around the machine rather than having to lift it up onto the assembled base.


I actually have decided to build my own mobile cart for the G1023. The Craftsman TS and my Rikon Band Saw were the only two machines left in my shop with purchased mobile carts. I had replaced every one of the other mobile bases with my own shop made mobile bases. I have designed one for the G1023 that will work better for me. My shop made mobile bases cost less than the purchased ones, are stronger, easier to move and they don't wear out.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Going that far I believe I would spend the night there. That's too many hours on the road, at least for me it is.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

hawkeye10 said:


> Just from looking at the pictures I don't think dust gets on the floor. :thumbsup: For long anyway.


That is what good dust collection does for you. :laughing: Yes, I don't let messes sit. I find that I enjoy cleaning up the mess as much as making it. Plus...the linoleum floor covering that I installed on the floor gets very slippery with a layer of saw dust on it.



hawkeye10 said:


> That is a nice saw you sold. You really had it fixed up and I can see why you hated to let it go.


Yes, it was a hard two year decision. Two years ago, I was contemplating purchasing a G1023. I visited the Grizzly showroom and picked out a G1023RLX. The wife said "just do it", but I just wasn't ready yet. Over the last six months, I have had to spend too much time sanding the burn marks off of the thicker figured woods that I have been using, even using a thin kerf ripping blade.

I am hoping with the 5HP and a good ripping blade, the burn marks will be a "thing of the past".


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> Going that far I believe I would spend the night there. That's too many hours on the road, at least for me it is.


Yea, I am not quite there yet. I am hoping that I have another 5 to 10 years, before I have to do that. The worst part is getting through the  Seattle traffic. If I don't time it correctly, I can be stuck in the "I-5 Seattle Parking Lot".


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

ORBlackFZ1 said:


> That makes me feel better. It is good to know that at least one person loves their G1023.


I've never seen any posts from owners that didn't love their 1023. and lots of posts from those that do!


ORBlackFZ1 said:


> Interesting. I have already read through the manual on-line, before I decided to purchase the G1023. It looked pretty straight forward to me. Would you take a look at the on-line manual (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-5-HP-240V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RLWX) and see if it is different than yours? Fill me in, if I am missing something.


As I recall the fence installation instructions contradicted the main unit assembly. And the router extension wing had a different order of doing things (and was very specific about it). But in the end, I just looked at it and did what made sense.


ORBlackFZ1 said:


> I actually have decided to build my own mobile cart for the G1023. The Craftsman TS and my Rikon Band Saw were the only two machines left in my shop with purchased mobile carts. I had replaced every one of the other mobile bases with my own shop made mobile bases. I have designed one for the G1023 that will work better for me. My shop made mobile bases cost less than the purchased ones, are stronger, easier to move and they don't wear out.


That's a beast with the extension wing. Bet it weighs north of 600 lbs. Hope you build it strong! I really like the shopfox base - easily the most solid of the 6 other mobile bases I have.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> That's a beast with the extension wing. Bet it weighs north of 600 lbs. Hope you build it strong! I really like the shopfox base - easily the most solid of the 6 other mobile bases I have.


I hope, I design & build it strong, too :laughing:. So far I have designed and built mobile carts for:

1. Jet JJ-12 12" jointer (750 lbs)
2. Grizzly G5840z 20" surface planer (950 lbs)
3. Grizzly G0454z 20" surface planer (900+ lbs)

Each one had different requirements due to the weight distribution. 

I also had fun with my mobile clamp cart:laughing:. I thought that I had the base all designed well enough to hold the weight, but I had to add some serious structure to the base after I loaded my clamps into the cart. Check out the photos for some of the support that was added to the base.

The mobile base for the G1023 will be much different design then what I have done in the past. So, positive thoughts will be appreciated, as I build from my current design. I will post some photos when I have it completed.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

I'm really curious about the lack on power issue being the impetus for a 5hp hobbyist saw. IMHE, using the right blade ( tooth count and hook angle), has, at least in my shop, trumpeted cellulos based material. The blades are, after all, steel and the workpiece is, after all, wood.

Congrats on the saw, BTW. New tools are always a time for fun.


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Sounds like you've got mobility figured out. 

I got the 3 HP version of that saw and it does pretty darn well but I can see how 5 HP would be useful. I have a pile of 8/4 Jatoba that is a serious match for steel driven by 3 HP.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*Ripping blades*



toolguy1000 said:


> I'm really curious about the lack on power issue being the impetus for a 5hp hobbyist saw. IMHE, using the right blade ( tooth count and hook angle), has, at least in my shop, trumpeted cellulos based material. The blades are, after all, steel and the workpiece is, after all, wood.


Well, the 5hp model was not my first choice. I was going to get the 3hp version, but for $20 more, I got the 5HP. It seemed like a good idea. I hope I am not going to regret it. :blink: Is there a time when a 3hp is going to be better than a 5hp for ripping 2 to 3" slabs of figured maple? I realize that the kickback is going to be worse, but the trick to avoiding kickback is to use straight, dry and flat slabs with a fence, right?

Anyways, with the Craftsman TS, after I starting using the Freud LU87R010 10-Inch 24-Tooth FTG Thin Kerf Ripping blade, burn marks went away on stock less than 1-1/2" thick. Over the 1-1/2" thick stock, I started to see the saw starting to bog down on figured slabs. When I slowed down the feed rate, burn marks would start appearing. 

Have you found another blade that you found works better for ripping thick figured slabs?

In looking for a rip blade for the G1023RLWX, I noticed that Grizzly recommends not using a thin kerf blade. I believe the recommendation is because of the thickness of the spreader/riving knife. Has anyone got thoughts to share on the Freud LM72R010 10-Inch 24 Tooth FTG Ripping Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating?


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Sounds like you've got mobility figured out.


I don't know about that, but I seem to be able to waddle my way through it with some trial, testing and errors. My Engineering Mechanics (from the late 70's) has come in handy, figuring out the shear and weight distributions across the bases.



PhilBa said:


> I got the 3 HP version of that saw and it does pretty darn well but I can see how 5 HP would be useful. I have a pile of 8/4 Jatoba that is a serious match for steel driven by 3 HP.


Nice. I will be coming through Seattle on my way to Bellingham. Is any of that 8/4 Jatoba in your way? Do you need to have it stored off-site?:laughing: I could probably make some room for it in my truck bed. I am sure that the G1023 would share the truck bed with the Jatoba.....:icon_smile:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I have that blade in thin kerf....and it's a great blade for thick stock. It does not leave as good of a finish in 1/2 to 1 inch stock as the freud glue line blade I also have, but that one doesn't do so well in thick stock.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

And you can't say you built better mobile bases without showing us pictures....I'm in need of a few more mobile bases but I'd love to see what you've built before clicking "buy now" on Amazon.


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Nice try! So far my wife hasn't objected to it cluttering up my garage.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> And you can't say you built better mobile bases without showing us pictures....I'm in need of a few more mobile bases but I'd love to see what you've built before clicking "buy now" on Amazon.


Ok...I just looked through my wood shop photos and I only found two (2) photos of one of the bases. I attached photos of the clamp rack mobile base, that shows some of the "I" beams used to strengthen the base. The first photo is taken from the front and the second from the back. There is a third "I" beam that is not shown, but runs the width of the rack about 8" from the front edge. The positioning of that "I" beam allowed the front swivel casters to swing in a full 360 degrees.

I will have to get back to you with photos of the rest of the mobile bases. I will post them on a new thread.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Nice try! So far my wife hasn't objected to it cluttering up my garage.


Good thing, because by the time I got the G1023 loaded with the extra 7' rail carton, there wasn/t much room left for wood.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

You CAN'T build the base any cheaper than a $7.99 Harbor Freight piano dolly. IMO

Then just build from there,

Dale in Indy


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## dtsdig (Mar 18, 2015)

Congrats on your new saw purchase! I just purchased the G0691 a month ago and had looked at the 1023 line as well. I would think you'll be good to go for a very long time!


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

ORBlackFZ1 said:


> Just sold my Craftsman Hybrid Table Saw 152_221140. I really loved using that saw. I hated to get rid of it. Once I started using the Thin Kerf Rip blades, it really did well, until I got into the 2-3" thick figured maples. The 1.5HP was not enough power.:sad: Well, I think that it went to a good home, so that is good.


Where did you get that extended rail? I have the 351.221140 but it only cuts 24" Left & 25" right of blade. Your looks like it'll cut much longer to the right side. Maybe thats the differences between these saws.

After just looking at mine rails, It appears than I may be able to move them to the right (both of them). I may see if I can get another 10" or so that way. If so, no need to upgrade so soon.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Does yours use the 2x3 square tube rail?? I thought that one used an aluminum rail.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> Does yours use the 2x3 square tube rail?? I thought that one used an aluminum rail.


Its a different rail system. Honestly it's not near as heavy duty, but it works pretty good. I am concerned that if I slide the aluminum rail to the right, it may not have the structural stability to stay true and square.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Does the aluminum mount to an angle iron?


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

smithbrother said:


> You CAN'T build the base any cheaper than a $7.99 Harbor Freight piano dolly. IMO
> 
> Then just build from there,
> 
> Dale in Indy


Dale:

Are you referring to this (http://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-x-12-14-in-1000-lb-capacity-hardwood-dolly-61899.html)

If not, please let me know which HFS "piano dolly" you are referring to.

Eric


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

I would love to see a base built from that dolly. If nothing else, for the comedic effect.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It's doable. The casters aren't half bad....that said I don't think it would be as user friendly from a stationary standpoint.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Burb said:


> Where did you get that extended rail? I have the 351.221140 but it only cuts 24" Left & 25" right of blade. Your looks like it'll cut much longer to the right side. Maybe thats the differences between these saws.
> 
> After just looking at mine rails, It appears than I may be able to move them to the right (both of them). I may see if I can get another 10" or so that way. If so, no need to upgrade so soon.


Good question. You know your saw. Actually, the extension fence rail that is shown in the photograph is a standard fence rail. The saw comes stock with two (2) of the standard front fence rails and two (2) of the standard back fence rails. They are mounted to the table with the two ends meeting at the center of the table. I purchased a third standard front fence rail and back fence rail through Sears parts department. I also purchased the connector bars that join the two rails together. The parts are all identified in your manual and on-line. Just Google "parts 351.221140" and you should be able to find the manual and order parts.

When I got the parts, I mounted the third front and back rails to an extension table that I built. It worked very well for making cuts up to 50" wide. The only issue that I had, was the seam between the two front fence rails was hard to get smooth. 

The best part of creating the extension table as an "add-on", was that I could remove it when I didn't need it. When I needed it, I could install it in about five (5) minutes.

About a year after completing the extension table, Makita came out with a track saw that has a dust port. I purchased the Makita and I haven't had to use the extension table much since then. It is much easier to cut 4' x 8' sheet goods with the Makita than the table saw. The track saw cut is really smooth and the dust collection on the track saw is excellent. I just put the sheet goods on a piece of rigid insulation (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...sulation-Sheathing-45W/100320352?N=5yc1vZbaxx) and use the track saw. :thumbsup: It was difficult to lift and control the 3/4" x 4' x 8' plywood on the table saw by myself. Unfortunately, the Makita Track Saw has been discontinued.:thumbdown:

Let me know if you have more questions that I can answer for you.

Eric


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Makita still lists a track saw.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> It's doable. The casters aren't half bad....that said I don't think it would be as user friendly from a stationary standpoint.


Ryan:

I must have gotten a "reject", when I purchased my "piano dolly" at my local HFS. I actually tried different ones in the pile. I thought that the one I got would at least work. It turned out I was wrong. The one I purchased, I tried to use to move boxes during my last house move in 2008. I recycled it in the garbage after using it once. I should have taken it back and complained, but I am too nice, sometimes.....

Here is a link to my favorite casters for heavy equipment (over 500 lbs):

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Heavy-Duty-Swivel-Caster-w-Brake/G8176

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Heavy-Duty-Fixed-Caster/G8164

I have multiple sets of these in my shop. The 20" surface planer, the 12" jointer and I just ordered a set for my table saw. Yes, they cost about $50 per set, but IMHO they are worth it for heavy equipment mobile carts.

Here is what I use for under 500 lbs:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Red-Polyurethane-Swivel-Caster-w-Brake/D2610

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Red-Polyurethane-Fixed-Caster/D2605

At $40 per set, they are expensive when compared with the HFS "piano cart". I have Grizzly caster sets on multiple carts in my shop. The double lock keeps the cart from moving. I have not had any function incorrectly, since I started using them years ago. I can't say the same for all of the casters that I have gotten from Lowes, Rockler, Peachtree and Woodcraft. I have replaced almost all of those casters with ones from Grizzly. None of the Grizzly have failed yet. They are well worth the money IMHO.

Eric


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> Makita still lists a track saw.


Ryan:

That is great news. Why don't you post a link for people to find it. The last couple of times I found a reference to the Makita, it was labeled as "Discontinued" or "Not available".

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-SP6000...d=1427920652&sr=8-1&keywords=makita+track+saw

If it is available, I am sure people would appreciate where they can purchase it.

Thanks,
Eric


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I may have spoken too soon....it's still on makitas website, Home Depots website, and a few others, but appears to be out of stock most places. 

That's a shame as I was really considering one earlier this year and planned to buy it soon. 

Guess I'm back to the dewalt, festool or grizzly.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Side note, there are a few on eBay brand new yet.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

ORBlackFZ1, thanks for the info on your/my saw rails. I may very well have to look into those extensions.

Ryan, my rails are bolted directly to the cast iron table.

As for the track saw, I would love one of those. I looked at that Grizzly unit & it looks an awful lot like the Grizzly unit. +


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

ORBlackFZ1 said:


> Ryan:
> 
> I must have gotten a "reject", when I purchased my "piano dolly" at my local HFS. I actually tried different ones in the pile. I thought that the one I got would at least work. It turned out I was wrong. The one I purchased, I tried to use to move boxes during my last house move in 2008. I recycled it in the garbage after using it once. I should have taken it back and complained, but I am too nice, sometimes.....
> 
> ...




All I know is I have two of them, and use them all the time for pretty heavy stuff. They've worked flawlessly for me.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Burb said:


> As for the track saw, I would love one of those. I looked at that Grizzly unit & it looks an awful lot like the Grizzly unit. +



Might want to read this review about track saws. It had sold me on the Mikita.....

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/track-saw-review/


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> Might want to read this review about track saws. It had sold me on the Mikita.....
> 
> http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/track-saw-review/


Ryans for the link Ryan. I may need to look into the Makita instead of swapping out my TS. It might make more sense, at least for a while. And the ability to take the track saw to my brothers' house when helping him to projects would be a huge plus.

Hmmm....decisions, decisions, decisions...


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If your up for spending some money on a new tool....

Consider this.... 

I'd talk to the manager at that store and see if they can take some money off the floor model. I've had good luck getting them to take some money off floor model tools. You want to talk to the tools manager, not any of the others. 

So say you can get them to 550 bucks.....buy that saw, sell yours for 400, and buy the tracksaw on eBay. You don't have much more out of pocket than just buying the tracksaw.


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

I have that Makita track saw (though they call it a plunge saw). It's one of those tools I would immediately replace with the same if it disappeared. Gets a lot of use in my shop. I think they are still available online - several outfits have the kit for $399.

The griz track saw hasn't gotten very good reviews. Kind of sad because they only need to do a few things to make it competitive.

On the HF castors - they are pretty low quality. I've got some on my big router table with an Incra LS. I keep telling myself I should swap them out for something better. Those griz casters look pretty good.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Mark:



Burb said:


> ORBlackFZ1, thanks for the info on your/my saw rails. I may very well have to look into those extensions.


You are very welcome. I am assuming you searched on my table saw number (152_221140) and found a couple of other threads that may interest you about the saw.




Burb said:


> As for the track saw, I would love one of those. I looked at that Grizzly unit & it looks an awful lot like the Grizzly unit. +


The last time I looked at the Grizzly Track Saw it was not getting very good reviews. It came out about a year after I purchased my Makita track saw and was half the price, but the reviews were terrible.

I looked at the DeWalt track saw when I was considering purchasing the Makita. I selected the Makita because 1.) the cost was less than the DeWalt (not by much) 2.) the dust port and 3.) the great reviews. The only complaint I have about the Makita (other than not being available any more) is the measurements are all in Metric.

I originally purchased the Makita Track Saw with the 52"(?) track. After I used the Makita the first time, I went ahead and ordered the longer (108"??) track. The cut is very impressive and the dust collection very good! I would much rather cut the 4'x8' sheet goods at ground level than on the table saw.

I have also use the Makita Track Saw for cutting out sink holes in cabinets. It works great! Especially, when I can capture the saw dust with a shop vac!

Eric


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> I may have spoken too soon....it's still on makitas website, Home Depots website, and a few others, but appears to be out of stock most places.
> 
> That's a shame as I was really considering one earlier this year and planned to buy it soon.
> 
> Guess I'm back to the dewalt, festool or grizzly.


Ryan:

I would like to think that it is just an inventory shortage, but the web sites I visit have been like that since May 2014. That is when I made sure I ordered some extra blades and the track rubber. I didn't want to get down the road a few years and find that the supplies weren't available either.

It looks like Triton has one now. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJ4VHR6/ref=psdc_552922_t1_B001J69QAO. Amazon only has two reviews for it. If you are in the market for a "Plunge Saw", you might want to check it out.

I would skip the Grizzly Plunge Saw. I usually recommend Grizzly tools, but the reviews for the Plunge Saw didn't seem to be that good.

Eric


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Burb said:


> Ryans for the link Ryan. I may need to look into the Makita instead of swapping out my TS. It might make more sense, at least for a while. And the ability to take the track saw to my brothers' house when helping him to projects would be a huge plus.
> 
> Hmmm....decisions, decisions, decisions...


If your short on floor space, the Plunge Saw really helps. I just need to have enough floor space for the 4'x8' sheet with a couple of extra feet around the sides for "elbow room". I can usually roll equipment off to the side of my wood shop and make enough space for the sheet.

Portability is good. If you get the long track, you will have to make sure that you can transport it without damaging it. I kept the original packing crate (hardboard) and store it in the crate when it is not in use. When I travel with the Makita Plunge Saw, I just strap the crate onto my truck's lumber rack.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> On the HF castors - they are pretty low quality. I've got some on my big router table with an Incra LS. I keep telling myself I should swap them out for something better. Those griz casters look pretty good.


"Been there, done that"....They not only look good, they are good. There isn't a day in my shop that I don't thank myself for switching to the Grizzly casters. I can't wait until all the non-Grizzly casters are gone. I tried the Rocklers, Lowes, Home Depot, Woodcraft & Peachtree casters. I like the Grizzly's the best. As I mentioned before, forget the store bought mobile carts. I would rather spend the $ on the casters and make a mobile cart that works.

Don't you live in the Seattle area? I see a road trip in your future to Bellingham. The annual Grizzly Tent Sale is May 2, 2015.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

I stopped by a tool/machine shop today at lunch. I can buy the Festool out the door with the 55" track for $640. The longer track is another $320 or so.

I then stopped by the other tool shop and they can get me the Makita with the short track for "$4-something". He is supposed to get back with me on Monday as I said I was't in a hurry. He did say they just ordered and got one last week, so he didn't know why he couldn't get another. He will also get me the price of the longer track. I really need to think this out as it's still a pretty fair investment. And even getting a track saw, I need to figure out a way to use it space wise. I know people say to cut on rigid insulation, but I don't have room to store that either.


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

I've seen where some guys make kind of a grid out of 2x4s and set it up on sawhorses. That'd store pretty easily.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Burb said:


> I stopped by a tool/machine shop today at lunch. I can buy the Festool out the door with the 55" track for $640. The longer track is another $320 or so.
> 
> I then stopped by the other tool shop and they can get me the Makita with the short track for "$4-something". He is supposed to get back with me on Monday as I said I was't in a hurry. He did say they just ordered and got one last week, so he didn't know why he couldn't get another. He will also get me the price of the longer track. I really need to think this out as it's still a pretty fair investment. And even getting a track saw, I need to figure out a way to use it space wise. I know people say to cut on rigid insulation, but I don't have room to store that either.


The Festool gets great reviews, but I found that it was too expensive for my shop budget.

I find my Makita Plunge Saw very handy to use for sheet goods, but if I had the choice between $ spent on a table saw or $ spent on a plunge saw, the table saw would be the easy pick. The table saw is a more versatile tool for the wood shop. The Plunge Saw is great for sheet goods, but not that good for other types of cutting.

If you can still get a Makita Plunge Saw and you already have a table saw, then the Makita Plunge Saw is worth it for cutting sheet goods.

I store my 2" x 4' x 8' rigid insulation up against a wall with any other sheet goods I have in the shop. It is very light weight. I could probably store it easily on the ceiling if I needed to. Yes, it is big, but it probably only weights five (5) lbs, if that. It just needs to be some where it is not going to get damaged. The corners and edges of the rigid insulation will chip off when they are stepped on or bumped with a heavy object.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Congrats. I have the RL and love it. One thing that got me was that the instructions are spread out over 3 or 4 manuals. Each is a bit different and occasionally contradictory. So, I'd get all the manuals and read them together before starting assembly. The good news is assembly was pretty obvious and the manuals just confused me.


Now that I have the boxes open in my shop, I see what you mean about the three (3) different manuals. The instructions do jump from one manual to the next and back a couple of times.



PhilBa said:


> They recommend getting a helper when putting the wings on but I just used sawhorses and blocks to get the wings approximately correct before bolting. It worked pretty easy.


I hear you....that router extension is heavy!!! I may have to get my friendly helpers (clamps and cauls) out of their cabinet.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

I finally got the electrical receptacle installed. The previous receptacle was for my 7HP surface planer and I wanted to change it to match the L6-30p that came on the G1023RLWX.



honesttjohn said:


> Hurry up and go get that sucker. That shop floor needs some dust on it and some project stuff laying around!!!!!!
> HJ


HJ you got your wish....boy did I get covered in saw dust today. I was ripping some oak with my new ripping blade (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T78V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I couldn't believe how much saw dust was NOT getting sucked into my dust collector. I am not used to this much saw dust being airborne. My Dylos particle counter hit the highest count I have ever seen on it!

Anyhow, the dust collection on this G1023RLWX is going to need some improvement. The G1023RLWX dust collection sucks compared with my previous Craftsman. Don't get me wrong, I really am glad that I upgraded to the G1023RLWX, but it is going to need some work on getting the dust collection to work as good as the Craftsman was. I had done some modifications to the Craftsman (posted in this thread http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/craftsman-hybrid-ts-65428/ #7). I had it working really good with the Thein Top Hat and other improvements to the Dust Collector.

I was hoping that the G1023RLWX "blade shroud" would help with the dust collection, but it appears to be just a "sales gimmick".

Has anyone else made dust collection modifications to their G1023's?

Here are some improvements that I am thinking of doing:
1. Make some zero-clearance inserts with holes
2. Cover the slot for tilting the blade in the front of the cabinet
3. Plug the opening between the table top and the front of the cabinet
4. Use some weather stripping on the right sided access door
5. Use some weather stripping on the motor access door
6. Cover the vent slots in the motor access door.


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## dtsdig (Mar 18, 2015)

ORBlackFZ1 said:


> "Been there, done that"....They not only look good, they are good. There isn't a day in my shop that I don't thank myself for switching to the Grizzly casters. I can't wait until all the non-Grizzly casters are gone. I tried the Rocklers, Lowes, Home Depot, Woodcraft & Peachtree casters. I like the Grizzly's the best. As I mentioned before, forget the store bought mobile carts. I would rather spend the $ on the casters and make a mobile cart that works.
> 
> Don't you live in the Seattle area? I see a road trip in your future to Bellingham. The annual Grizzly Tent Sale is May 2, 2015.



Which Grizzly casters are you referring to, specifically? I still need to build a mobile cart for my Steel City planer and have been trying to figure out which casters to go with. I hate the red wheeled home depot ones I have on my other carts.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Id buy the 3 wheeled universal mobile base from delta to use under a planer. I used casters under mine and have been regretting it ever since


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Part of the problem with the shroud is that it has a 2.5" tube that goes from the shroud to the 4" port. I think it's somewhat unbalanced in terms of airflow. I'd say the DC aspect of the 1023 series is probably is it's worst feature.

However, I don't get a huge amount of airborn dust. Most of the dust and chips end up in the bottom of the cabinet. The exception is when I'm shaving a tiny bit and the blade isn't burried in the wood - then most of it goes into the air. I've been tempted to mod the shroud to take a 4" hose down to the port and open up one of the side doors to create better airflow.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

dtsdig said:


> Which Grizzly casters are you referring to, specifically? I still need to build a mobile cart for my Steel City planer and have been trying to figure out which casters to go with. I hate the red wheeled home depot ones I have on my other carts.


These are the casters I use for heavy (> 500 lbs) equipment: i.e. surface planer, jointer, table saw, etc. ( https://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Heavy-Duty-Swivel-Caster-w-Brake/G8176 & https://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Heavy-Duty-Fixed-Caster/G8164 )

These are the casters I use for medium (>100 & < 500 lbs) weight equipment: router table, band saw, drill press, etc. (https://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Red-Polyurethane-Swivel-Caster-w-Brake/D2610) & https://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Red-Polyurethane-Fixed-Caster/D2605)

These casters have worked for me very well. The Heavy duty casters have a flat surface, so they are a harder to move than the Medium ones with their rounded surface. I made the mistake of putting on four (4) casters with my first planer. After a couple of months, I switched it to two (2) casters and two (2) fixed. It is much easier to control with the two (2) fixed casters.

Depending on your planer's footprint, make sure you structure the mobile cart to handle the weight distribution. I use 1-1/2 thick plywood at a minimum and then add some structure underneath depending on where the weight load is located. I will be posting some photos in a couple of days showing some of the different mobile carts that I have made.

I usually design the mobile cart based on the weight distribution of the base and also the equipment working height. I am 6'0" tall, so I like a working table height of 36" to 40" depending on how I use the equipment. If I have to bend over the equipment (i.e. table saw) to use it, then I will try to keep the table height around 36". If I am using the equipment mostly standing up (i.e. compound miter saw), I have the equipment closer to the 40" height. 

The two (2) 20" surface planer table heights, that I have owned were both short, so I could just use 1-1/2" plywood with 4" (net height gain +5") casters as the mobile cart. This raised the surface planer up an additional 6-1/2" for the working table height.The additional height makes the planer more efficient for me loading and unloading lumber.

The table saw is little more difficult to design, since the working table height is at 34". That only leaves me 2" clearance for a mobile cart. This means that the casters have to be outside the table saw footprint. I have the design completed, just not built yet. I will post photos when it gets built.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> Id buy the 3 wheeled universal mobile base from delta to use under a planer. I used casters under mine and have been regretting it ever since


That is interesting that you mention that. Laguna has a two (2) wheeled version on their band saw. There is a special handle with casters that allow you to move the cart. Here is the link (http://www.lagunatools.com/accessories/mobility-bs)

I have thought about using their kit on a couple of tools. My friend has the band saw with the kit and he likes how it works.


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## dtsdig (Mar 18, 2015)

ORBlackFZ1 said:


> These are the casters I use for heavy (> 500 lbs) equipment: i.e. surface planer, jointer, table saw, etc. ( https://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Heavy-Duty-Swivel-Caster-w-Brake/G8176 & https://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Heavy-Duty-Fixed-Caster/G8164 )
> 
> These are the casters I use for medium (>100 & < 500 lbs) weight equipment: router table, band saw, drill press, etc. (https://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Red-Polyurethane-Swivel-Caster-w-Brake/D2610) & https://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Red-Polyurethane-Fixed-Caster/D2605)


Thanks for the info! The prices on those are decent too, so that's a bonus. My planer is the Steel City 40200H (benchtop) so I'll just be building a rolling cart with a shelf on the bottom similar to what I did for my router table and miter saw. The medium weight versions will do me just fine. 
The thing that drives me nuts about the HD wheels I bought is that the casters only lock the wheel spin, not the rotation. My plan is to upgrade all of my carts with 2 fixed and 2 double locking casters.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Part of the problem with the shroud is that it has a 2.5" tube that goes from the shroud to the 4" port. I think it's somewhat unbalanced in terms of airflow. I'd say the DC aspect of the 1023 series is probably is it's worst feature.
> 
> However, I don't get a huge amount of airborn dust. Most of the dust and chips end up in the bottom of the cabinet. The exception is when I'm shaving a tiny bit and the blade isn't burried in the wood - then most of it goes into the air. I've been tempted to mod the shroud to take a 4" hose down to the port and open up one of the side doors to create better airflow.


Phil:

Let me know how that works. I am always looking for better ways to improve the dust collection in my shop.

I am trying to figure out how to get my 6" ducting to work with the 1023. If I decide to put dust collection on the blade guard, I think that I will make it a 4" diameter. Then I can split the 6" at the table saw into two (2) 4" pipes.

Have you considered this one from Grizzly? (http://www.grizzly.com/products/Universal-Overarm-Blade-Guard-For-Table-Saws/T10113) I like the fact that it is 4", when most of them are 2-1/2". It is also fairly reasonably priced at $295.

Eric


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

dtsdig said:


> Thanks for the info! The prices on those are decent too, so that's a bonus. My planer is the Steel City 40200H (benchtop) so I'll just be building a rolling cart with a shelf on the bottom similar to what I did for my router table and miter saw. The medium weight versions will do me just fine.
> The thing that drives me nuts about the HD wheels I bought is that the casters only lock the wheel spin, not the rotation. My plan is to upgrade all of my carts with 2 fixed and 2 double locking casters.


Glad that I could help. I really like the double locking casters. They keep carts from moving very well.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*Photos, Photos, & more Photos*

Ok. As promised here are some photos.

1. G1023RLWX in the back of the Toyota Tacoma on its journey from Bellingham, WA to Beaverton, Oregon. Fortunately, there was no rain. I still had it tarped, just in case.

2. G1023RLWX crate with rails carton in the shop. I really like my chain hoist from Harbor Freight Sales. It really makes it easy to keep large items in and out of my shop. 

3. Remove the top carton and here are all the parts.

4. Look at all that "crude" to remove.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*More Photos*

Photos 1 to 3: base unit.
Photo 4: cartons of parts
Photo 5: 7' rails option


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*More Photos*

Photos 1 to 3: Finally, all nice and clean
Photo 4: Finally all together


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*Dust Collection*

Ok, I finished the dust collection modifications. They work great! The Grizzly G1023RLWX dust collection is finally at the level that my Craftsman was. 

Sealing all the gaps and creating a zero clearance insert with plenty of holes, did the trick. Now, I will have to figure out how to make a blade guard with a dust port.

Notice the gap on the front is being covered by Magnetic Photo Paper that is cut to cover the hole. There are two (2) of them. Only one is needed when the tilt angle is 0 or 45 degree. For any angle in between those two angles, I will put one cutout on one side of the hand wheel shaft and the other on the other side.

The Grizzly G1023RLWX is really growing on me. I am finishing up my new outfeed table. Cutting the joints for the table on the Grizzly was a pleasure! I should have bought this saw years ago!


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

honesttjohn said:


> Hurry up and go get that sucker. That shop floor needs some dust on it and some project stuff laying around!!!!!!
> 
> HJ


That must be the cleanest shop I've ever seen!


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## dtsdig (Mar 18, 2015)

Looks nice! What product are you using to seal/protect the iron?


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Johnson Paste Wax (JPW)


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

ORBlackFZ1 said:


> Johnson Paste Wax (JPW)


Finding that can be an entirely separate thread... LOK


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> And you can't say you built better mobile bases without showing us pictures....I'm in need of a few more mobile bases but I'd love to see what you've built before clicking "buy now" on Amazon.


Ryan:

Sorry to take so long with your request. I posted a new thread here (http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/show-us-your-shop-made-mobile-bases-90458/#post927666) I hope you get inspired and build your own mobile base. 

I have another one that I am working on for the band saw. It is a different design from the ones that I posted, such that it is designed to only raise the working height 2-1/4". I will post photos, when it gets finished. 

I haven't decided to put a mobile base under the table saw, yet. If the design for the band saw works well, I will probably use the same design for the table saw.

Eric


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*Outfeed Table*

I finally finished the Grizzly's G1023RLWX outfeed table. I used the same design as my previous one with a couple of changes: 
1. I used Shellac over the plywood, instead of counter top laminate,
2. The top is 3/4" plywood instead of 1/2" thick
3. The top is 40" deep and 48" wide instead of 40" x 40"

The legs swing up next to the frame when stored. The leg height is adjustable with the feet. If/When I decide to put the Grizzly on a mobile base, the outfeed table height will be adjusted using the feet on the legs.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*Accessory Rack*

I finished the accessory rack. It is pretty simple design. Pegboard slotted into a frame with the frame being clamped to the extension leg.


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## honesttjohn (Jan 27, 2015)

Wow - - good show!!!! I'm impressed.

HJ

Not that organized !!


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## Don1962 (Dec 11, 2013)

I have the same saw. Love it


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*Mobile Base for G1023RLWX*

Ok. I had some lumber that needed to be ripped and was longer than 108", so I had to move my G1023RLWX. I don't know about your shop, but my time in my shop sometimes gets hijacked updating equipment, creating jigs, sharpening, etc. I call it "non-project" work time, but it is still necessary for the project to get done.

Time to build a mobile base for the G1023RLWX. I had procrastinated for four (4) months. Anyways, here are some photos. Let me know if you have questions.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*More Photos*

More Photos with the G1023 on the base. 

The height of the mobile base with the G1023 on it was crucial. I matched my workbench height on the G1023 infeed side to the height of the G1023 on the base. This allows me to use the workbench as support for ripping boards up to 9' long. The outfeed table was designed with adjustable height feet to accommodate the mobile base.

When I am ripping a board longer than 9', I can now turn my G1023 90 degrees on the mobile base.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*Last of the Photos*

Here are the last photos of the G1023RLWX on the new mobile base.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Looks great, I need something like that.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*What I don't like about the Grizzly G1023RLWX*

Sorry, but I really am enjoying my Grizzly G1023RLWX. After owning two (2) other table saws in the last 15 years, the G1023 is my last one.

But....there are a few "features" that I don't like about the G1023. My previous Craftsman Hybrid saw had some better features, but was really low on HP when it came to working with 1-1/2" or thicker rough cut wood. I have fixed all of the disliked "features" except for the last two (2).

1. The Grizzly G1023RLWX has terrible dust collection at the blade. I am trying to figure out a better solution. There are a lot of great ideas and plans available. I just need to get irritated enough to build one in between my other projects. When I do, I will post it.

2. The Grizzly G1023RLWX requires the operator to crawl under the right side of the table extension, when ever the stock blade guard/anti-kick back paws assembly is either removed or installed. There is a 10"x10" access door that the operator has to reach through and flip the assembly locking lever up when removing the assembly. When the assembly is being installed, the operator has to crawl under the extension and reach through the door multiple times, because the action of sliding the assembly into place locks the lever even when the assembly is not fully in place. 

(I purchased the longer rails with the G1023RLWX, but fortunately, I have not installed them yet. It is bad enough crawling under the stock extension. I can imagine hitting my head many more times with the 7' installed.)

Anyways, I have decided that a manual choke cable (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MTM0/55104.oap) will give me access to the assembly locking lever without crawling under the table. I have purchased one, but I will have to wait for a break in the project work to take a day and install it. I am planning on drilling a hole in the front of the G1023RLWX cabinet to install the cable in. The other end will have to be mounted near the locking lever. 

*If anyone else has successfully implemented this idea, please let me know how yours is working.

*Thanks,
Eric


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

*I really hate the stock fence cursor*

Ok. I really hated the stock fence cursor from the first time I played with it at the Grizzly showroom. So, time to fix it. I can't believe that I didn't think of this solution earlier. It is so simple. :thumbsup:

I probably should post a photo of the original cursor, but I didn't, so I will describe why it sucked.... The designer must have been on drugs. They had obviously never used it. The bottom of the cursor was a good 3/8" above the ruler. The top was another 1/4" about that with a concave down magnifier. I found it impossible to accurately set the fence using the cursor, because I would have to have my eye in the exact spot every time.  

The solution uses a 1/8" thick plexiglass with a scratch line on the top and bottom sides. I used a marking knife and a small square to mark the lines. The lines are the exact same length from the same end. In the photo, the lines are barely visible at the 15-3/4" mark. The bottom of the plexiglass is about 1/16" above the ruler. It is fastened to the block with a couple screws underneath. 

The process of setting an accurate cut measurement is to align the top and bottom marks with the ruler mark and lock the fence.

I just love simple solutions that work......now why didn't I think of that sooner.......

Eric


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Augie1962 said:


> I have the same saw. Love it


See my post above for some things I hate about the G1023RLWX. If you have figured out some solutions, please post them.

Thanks,
Eric


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## Allman27 (Feb 10, 2013)

Thanks for your great review of this saw, been eyeing it up for sometime. If you could do it over would you buy it again? Or if you had the time to wait, would you save up some money for a few months more to get a different saw?


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Allman27 said:


> Thanks for your great review of this saw, been eyeing it up for sometime. If you could do it over would you buy it again? Or if you had the time to wait, would you save up some money for a few months more to get a different saw?


Allman:

Cost was not one of my top criteria for purchasing the Grizzly G1023RLWX. My criteria was more about getting more value out of a new saw versus my existing Craftsman Hybrid (152_221140) that I paid $540 for in 2010 and sold for $600 in 2015. I had the Craftsman working really well in terms of accuracy, dust collection and functionality in the shop. The Craftsman did what I needed it to do, except for rough cut lumber that was more than 1-1/2" thick. Even with a thin-kerf ripping blade, I would get burn marks ripping 1-1/2" thick pieces of big leaf maple, cherry and mahogany.

The decision to purchase the Grizzly G1023RLWX was about 5HP vs the Craftsman's 1-1/2HP! I knew that I would have to make some improvements to the Grizzly to get it up to the functionality of the Craftsman after I got it into the shop. The improvements included: dust collection, mobility, new outfeed table, new cross-cut sled, fence cursor, blade guard dust collection, etc. ( I would have had to make these improvements to any new table saw that I purchased, not just the Grizzly G1023RLWX)

I evaluated other brands and models such as SawStop, Jet, Powermatic, Delta, Steel City, etc. over a couple of years. I just kept coming back to the Grizzly because of the build quality, features and cost. It was hard to justify paying $2600 for the Jet 708677PK XACTASAW Deluxe 5HP, or $4600 for the SAWSTOP 10 In. 5 HP, when I could get the G1023RLWX for $1500! I actually made two trips to the Grizzly Showroom about 15 months apart during my evaluation. My wife was with me the first time and was disappointed that I made the trip and didn't purchase the Grizzly. The second visit I purchased the G1023RLWX with a nice 10% discount and saved myself $180 in shipping.

I am a retired engineer with a nice woodworking budget. I spent over $50K to build my woodworking shop in 2012. So, to answer your question. If I had found a table saw with better quality and value than the Grizzly G1023RLWX, I would have purchased it.

Is the G1023RLWX the right table saw for every woodworker? Absolutely not! The guy that purchased my Craftsman Table Saw got a fantastic table saw at a great price. Even though he paid me more $ for the table saw used, than I paid for the table saw new. If you can find a used Craftsman Hybrid (152_221140) that is in good shape, they are worth the $600, if you are cutting lumber less than 1-1/2" thick.

Thanks for posting your question. 
Eric


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Thanks for posting a great honest review of your new Grizzly. I'll be looking for a new saw in the next couple of years, though it'll be a 10" 3 HP machine.



ORBlackFZ1 said:


> If you can find a used Craftsman Hybrid (152_221140) that is in good shape, they are worth the $600, if you are cutting lumber less than 1-1/2" thick.


I will agree that this Craftsman Hybrid is an excellent saw. I actually purchased one of these hybrids about 4-years ago myself from a guy in Rogers, AR. He had purchased the saw new with some accessories & a mobile base for about $1000 (he said) from Sears and then never used the saw. It actually still had the manufacturers film on the saw, blades, etc as he'd never removed them. He simply put the saw together & then it sat in his garage. When I bought it, I paid about $200 plus a nice 12-GA shotgun with a spare barrel.

While I haven't had too many issues with power, I don't cut much (if any) >1.5" hardwoods. I have cut 2.25" rough cedar which cut just fine. My biggest complaint was the rails. The saw comes with 25"/24" cutting capacity. After following advice on this site (it may have been your advice :yes, I moved my rails and I now have just under 40" to the right, and about 12" or so to the left. Not concerned with left as I've never actually cut left side. This change has been a huge improvement for me and I wish I knew about it 3-years earlier. I haven't made any other changes as I haven't either felt it was needed, or I hadn't thought about it. I'd be curious to know what your additional modification recommendations would be. Overall, I really like this hybrid saw, though if I could get $500 for it, I'd sell it tomorrow and get a Grizzly. I'm partial to Grizzly as I live about 10-miles from their Springfield, MO showroom.


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## Allman27 (Feb 10, 2013)

Eric, fantastic response to my question. It's been really fun reading this review. I would love to read your reviews of all the tools in your shop.


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Burb said:


> Thanks for posting a great honest review of your new Grizzly. I'll be looking for a new saw in the next couple of years, though it'll be a 10" 3 HP machine.


You are welcome. I would suggest that you include the Grizzly 5HP table saw models in your evaluation. The G1023RLW (3HP single phase) and the G1023RLWX (5HP single phase) are only $30 difference in price. If you have the 5HP, and need it, then you can use it. If you only have 3HP, you are "..... out of luck". The benefits to having the 5HP over a 3HP motor certainly outweigh the costs. 

Costs:
- $30 more for a 5HP over a 3HP. Yes, that is only $30!!! (http://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(category:"Tablesaws")&rankBy=price+asc)

- Some people will say: "a 5hp motor costs more to run than a 3hp"...I haven't seen my electric bill go up.

Benefits:
- If you need to rip 3" hardwood, you have the power to do it.

- Cuts aren't burned (assuming your fence and saw blade are parallel)

- Motor doesn't stall (assuming you are sawing with a sharp blade)



Burb said:


> I will agree that this Craftsman Hybrid is an excellent saw. I actually purchased one of these hybrids about 4-years ago myself from a guy in Rogers, AR. He had purchased the saw new with some accessories & a mobile base for about $1000 (he said) from Sears and then never used the saw. It actually still had the manufacturers film on the saw, blades, etc as he'd never removed them. He simply put the saw together & then it sat in his garage. When I bought it, I paid about $200 plus a nice 12-GA shotgun with a spare barrel.


When Sears introduced the Craftsman Hybrid, the price was $1295. I purchased mine in 2010, after they were discontinued. I happened to purchase it brand new from the Sears web site with an on-line special for $540.

If your saw was in excellent condition, you got a great deal at $200 (assuming the shotgun was worth less than $400).



Burb said:


> My biggest complaint was the rails. The saw comes with 25"/24" cutting capacity. After following advice on this site (it may have been your advice :yes, I moved my rails and I now have just under 40" to the right, and about 12" or so to the left. I'd be curious to know what your additional modification recommendations would be.


I struggled with the rails. I ended up purchasing an additional set of rails from Sears for $100 and extended the cutting width to 58" to the right. It took up too much of my shop floor space, so I made sure that I could install or remove the extension in under 5 minutes. I finally gave up on lifting the large sheet goods on to the table saw and purchased a Mikita Plunge saw with a 110" track. It is much easier to move the Mikita over the sheet goods, then move the sheet goods over the table saw. When I sold the Craftsman, the buyer wanted the extension table and outfeed table. I charged him an extra $150 for them. He was thrilled. 

I don't know about your area, but finding woodworking equipment that has been taken care of is very hard. Before I purchased the Craftsman Hybrid, I spent six months looking at used table saws on Craigslist. I would guess that 23 of the 25 table saws that I looked at were rusty, broken or neglected. I finally gave up and bought the Craftsman Hybrid new.

Here is a thread that lists what I did to improve the dust collection on the Craftsman Hybrid: (http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/craftsman-hybrid-ts-65428/#post633380) Here is a link to the complete thread (www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/craftsman-hybrid-ts-65428/). There are a few members on this forum that have the Craftsman Hybrid. Everybody that owns one, posts that they like it.



Burb said:


> Overall, I really like this hybrid saw, though if I could get $500 for it, I'd sell it tomorrow and get a Grizzly. I'm partial to Grizzly as I live about 10-miles from their Springfield, MO showroom.


Nice...I am about 550 miles round-trip south of the Bellingham, WA showroom. It is usually a good 10 to 12 hour round trip. I figure that I probably break-even by saving on the shipping costs.

Let me know if you have other questions, that I can answer for you.

Eric


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

Allman27 said:


> Eric, fantastic response to my question. It's been really fun reading this review. I would love to read your reviews of all the tools in your shop.


Thank you for the compliment. Sorry, but I haven't written reviews on all my woodworking equipment. I am just too busy with woodworking projects. That is the main problem with retirement...There is just not enough time in a day. I am always asking myself how I managed to work 40 to 60 hours a week before I was retired.

Anyways, you can see what I have posted on this forum by using the "advanced search" menu option and entering my username in the appropriate box.

Eric


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