# Fastening Small Crown Returns



## lawyer1976 (Nov 24, 2009)

First Post on this forum.

I'm remodeling a 3600sq ft colonial right now and I'm in the process of building the head mouldings for above the all of the doors. I'm using a 2" crown, which obviously needs to be returned on the ends. I'm concerned about splitting the returns if I use an 18 gauge brad nailer. On the other hand, I don't want the miters to open up if I just glue the returns in place.

Is gluing sufficient? --Or should I just drop the $ for a 23 gauge pin nailer?

Thanks for the input.


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Pins and glue. You can also use the new CA glues for wood, very expensive but have read here quite a few who use it and really like it


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I always use a 23 gauge pin nailer and glue for returns. I don't believe in ca glue by itself. I have fixed too many trim jobs by OTHERS who have use it and it eventually fails.


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## lawyer1976 (Nov 24, 2009)

Julian the woodnut said:


> I always use a 23 gauge pin nailer and glue for returns. I don't believe in ca glue by itself. I have fixed too many trim jobs by OTHERS who have use it and it eventually fails.


 
Thanks. That's what I thought. Any recommendations on pin nailers? Several reviews online seemed to suggest that some of the knock off brands due a fine job and that it is not necessary to dump $250.00 on one. I'm thinking of going right in the middle and buying a Porter Cable, which is about $100.00


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Lawyer,
I agree with pins and glue. I use titebond III for just about everything. I have a porter cable 23 ga pinner. It works fine. Almost invisible. It shoots a one inch pin. There are guns that shoot longer pins available. Not sure if they would warrant the money. The 23 ga pinners need to be used with glue. The pins are not intended to hold forever on their own. 
Mike Hawkins


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

Or you can use some collins miter clamps


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

The PC pin nailer is a great buy. I've had mine five years now and use it every week. Combined with a good glue you'll have no problems, assuming your not using MDF molding, but even with that you should be ok.


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## redbeard (Dec 5, 2009)

I usually use 2p-10, fastcap, and 23g. you have to nail it on the first shot, if you use primer, but it is bullet prof. I prefer to not use the primer and have the use of the collins miter clamp to make it nice and tight. 
Michael


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

I have pretty good luck using an 18 ga and brads. It takes some careful aiming to stay back from the edge and shoot at an angle.

Or, on those tiny self edging returns, I'll use hot glue to position the piece. Then take a small finish nail and cut off the head and put it in a drill. Use that to drill a hole. Then use the same size nail and tap it into the hole and seat with a nail set. The hole drilled should be short enough for the nail point to bed in solid wood.


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

*I forgot*

Another trick i forgot is to leave it unnailed a foot to 18" back from the end...Use titebond II and masking tape to hold the miter tight till the glue dries and then come back and fasten it the rest of the way. Then you have no nails in your return and it is for sure a tight miter.


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