# tongue and groove 2x8



## micheal1 (May 1, 2015)

I am making a table and plan to joint/plan the lumber before I before I form the table top.

How would some of you cut the tongue and groove? I am thinking a stacked dado to make the groove and the router table using a 1/4" rabbet to make a 1/2" tongue.

What would you do?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

That will work, or just spline it. You could just use biscuits, or not use anything, just do a glue up. If you are bent on using a T&G, why not double T&G since it is a 2X.


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## micheal1 (May 1, 2015)

BigJim said:


> That will work, or just spline it. You could just use biscuits, or not use anything, just do a glue up. If you are bent on using a T&G, why not double T&G since it is a 2X.


A double tongue and groove, I never even consider it. Glad I asked. Question though, can it be done quickly? I know a standard t&g on 2" lumber isnt the fastest either, but will a double t&g take take a lot longer?

To be honest, Im sure gluing the joints would be just fine and would handle any amount of load placed on top....but there is always that what if bird chirping in my ear.

And to be honest, joinery is probably my favorite part of wood working.

I was even thinking a half lap on each board, that way only the table saw is needed and would probably be the fastest, but its hard has heck to clamp a table top together that is half lapped. 

Clamps along wouldnt work. You would need something to sandwich the top with along with the clamps.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I just do them both on the table saw. Lots easier and faster than the router. As long as they are planed and jointed, your dimensions will all be the same, and the table saw motor is much more powerful than the router's, so it's a lot easier. At least, that's been my experience. Sharp blades make clean cuts, and you must measure accurately, too.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I would only use 2x8 construction lumber to build a picnic table with spaces between the boards since they will shrink and move quite a lot. Construction lumber really isn't suitable for such work. If you had the correct FAS KD lumber. Most would not use any joint when gluing up a top, just fit each board perfectly to the next and glue them. You construction method for the table has to account for movement. If you feel you must have something other than a proper fit, use a spline, or two. 

If I was to cut T&G on longer pieces of 2" lumber, I'd use a slotting bit for the groove and stacked dadoes on the table saw for the tongue, cut from both faces. Hand held router on the slotting bit, not a router table. Cut from both faces on the slotting bit to center the cut. If the boards aren't perfectly flat and straight, on a router table, you won't get an even cut, it can ride off center.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

As for clamps for a table top, these work pretty good or you could make your own.

Edit* I didn't catch that this was an outside table. It may not be but using 2Xs it may be.


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## micheal1 (May 1, 2015)

Oh no, it is an inside table. I been building these tables for a few years. They are gorgeous. Frame lumber works fine as long as it is kiln dried, planed and jointed. 

Yes I know hard woods are nice, but honestly, its all mental. Just as Ford Vs. Chevy is. The fact it is framing lumber is irrelevant. All lumber starts rough....or in the shape of trees.......its the work of us that make it finished.


Is this table going to fall apart because and the finish wipe off because its made from a knotty pine meant to frame and hold a house together?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Why not spline it instead of tongue and groove? Lot less setup work that way, just a router and a slot cutting bit, or a table saw with a dado stack. 

If you're set on t&g, I'd go a table saw with a dado stack. Easier setup that way, and the table saw is more powerful as mmwood pointed out


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## micheal1 (May 1, 2015)

I totally agree. Ill be honest, my tools are not the best. I had to buy cheaper tools so they could earn me money and I get to buy nicer stuff.

My stacked dado is in on a ryobi 10" table saw with a 15a 120v motor. It has limitation, the fence and table is made for rough carpentry with no real precision. 

It works with some extra work but isnt ideal. The dado set always leaves rough lines. If I go over back and forth it after the initial cut, I can remove a good amount but it still requires hand sanding or filing.

The router how ever, makes a clean cut everytime, needing so sanding.

Thats my only reason.

But...soon ill have a G0691 Grizzly cabinet saw. 

right now I use my router table as a jointer and I hand plane. Its a pain but works. Once I get the table saw, a jointer planer combo is in place. So much $$$ though...


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## ORBlackFZ1 (Dec 25, 2013)

If you really want to try a strong glue joint, V-Grooves work well with joining long grain to long grain. The V-groove is not a mechanical joint, but has a lot of strength due to the large gluing surface.

The V-groove male and female can be cut on the table saw with the same setup. Use an accurate 45 degree setting and just change the fence setting from the male to female. Rip the shoulder for the male and you are done. 

The cuts are as good as your saw blade and settings. Did I mention, lots of gluing surface? Make sure that you mark the up and down sides of the boards. Always use the same side to the fence and then your joints don't have to be centered. When you clamp the boards together, they will automatically be flat for you.


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