# Questions about my new nailer (starting and stopping)



## ajtool (Jul 21, 2010)

I have never used a nail gun before but a couple days ago I got a porter cable kit with the 3 nailers (brad, finish and stapler) along with the tank. I got a chance to try out the stapler today but I am a bit confused about the order of things. Do I:

1) Connect hose to compressor
2) connect hose to nailer
3) turn on
4) load nails
5) use

because if I read things right it sounded like:

1) turn on compressor
2) connect hose to compressor
3) connect hose to nailer
4) load nailer
5) use

which was a bit awkward since the hose kind of kicked while trying to plug it into the compressor (more so when removing it)

then when I am done:
do I:
1) turn off compressor
2) remove hose from nailer
3) remove hose from compressor
4) pull the valve to empty the air (very loud I may add) 

So what would be the basic operation steps? The manuals seamed a bit confusing, but it could be because of the AMPLE warnings I was reading

EDIT: Sorry mods! Looks like I stuck this in the wrong area :innocent:


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I'm not an expert by any means on nail guns. However, one thing I always do is remove air hose from gun before loading nails. Just seems safer. Also, I don't depressurizer the tank after use. I hate the noise of the compressor and the time it takes to get back up to full pressure. And yes you will get some kick when you disconnect the gun from an air hose with pressure on it. Hope this helps some.
Tom


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TomC said:


> I'm not an expert by any means on nail guns. However, one thing I always do is remove air hose from gun before loading nails. Just seems safer. Also, I don't depressurizer the tank after use. I hate the noise of the compressor and the time it takes to get back up to full pressure. And yes you will get some kick when you disconnect the gun from an air hose with pressure on it. Hope this helps some.
> Tom



That's basically the way I do it too. My compressor is always on while at work. The hose stays connected to the compressor. I disconnect the nailer to load, and yes, there is a blast upon disconnecting. Just be ready for that to happen. Keep one hand on the gun, and a good grip on the hose end, as it can get pretty whippy if you let go. When disconnecting the hose, push the hose end in towards the fitting slightly when pulling the sleeve back. When re-connecting the hose make sure the sleeve is pulled all the way back when pushing onto the air fitting.

Just a bit of advice, no matter how tempted you get to defeat the safety lock up on the nose, don't fool with it. It's there for a good reason.


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## ajtool (Jul 21, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Just a bit of advice, no matter how tempted you get to defeat the safety lock up on the nose, don't fool with it. It's there for a good reason.


I agree. I can see that these nailers can be extremly dangerous and so far I have only used the stapler with the 1/4 inch 1" long staples :blink:

Now that I have the 3 nailers I am looking for projects to do with them. Also looking into getting a framing nailer for my bathroom remodel


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## craftsman jay (Jun 26, 2010)

If you always leave the air in the tank then it will probably rust from the inside out. I don't always depressurize mine. And after 5 or so years, it's starting to leak brown juice when I open the valve. 

Just something to keep in mind. Not a big deal.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

> 4) pull the valve to empty the air (very loud I may add)


I don't think you should use the relief valve to bleed the tank. Use the drain valve under the tank.

Leaving air in the tank will not rust it...leaving water in will.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

mics_54 said:


> I don't think you should use the relief valve to bleed the tank. Use the drain valve under the tank.
> 
> Leaving air in the tank will not rust it...leaving water in will.


You get water in the tank when it fills. Depending on your weather conditions it could create more or less water but you should drain your compressor everyday after use. Its also good to leave the valve open until you use it next so any remaining condensation can get out of the tank. This is to prevent water buildup and rust because a closed tank holds the condensation.


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## craftsman jay (Jun 26, 2010)

mics_54 said:


> I don't think you should use the relief valve to bleed the tank. Use the drain valve under the tank.
> 
> Leaving air in the tank will not rust it...leaving water in will.


:thumbdown:

where does that water come from?
Seriously! Ok, next time I'll say the moisture in the air will condensate and eventually rust out the inside of the tank. I thought this was a woodworking forum, not a technical science one.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

The point is..you can bleed the water out without emptying all the air. Having no pressure in the tank also doesnt necessarily mean there is no condensation in it. Bleeding air pressure out of the tank via the relief valve will not drain out the condensation. It isnt rocket science.


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## drcollins804 (Jan 11, 2008)

craftsman jay said:


> :thumbdown:
> 
> where does that water come from?
> Seriously! Ok, next time I'll say the moisture in the air will condensate and eventually rust out the inside of the tank. I thought this was a woodworking forum, not a technical science one.


Its called humidity and it can be a lot. We either have an auto drain on all the tanks at work or a daily route to drain the air tanks of condensation. BTY a 100 gal tank can accumulate over 2 gallons of water in 24 hours in a humid environment. That is also what the filter in the regulator is for. Water and Oil removal. Water spells death to air tools. Also sounds like a very appropriate topic in a woodworking tools forum.:laughing: Though not really a review.
David


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## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

TomC said:


> I'm not an expert by any means on nail guns. However, one thing I always do is remove air hose from gun before loading nails. Just seems safer. Also, I don't depressurizer the tank after use. I hate the noise of the compressor and the time it takes to get back up to full pressure. And yes you will get some kick when you disconnect the gun from an air hose with pressure on it. Hope this helps some.
> Tom


load gun not connected is right:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## craftsman jay (Jun 26, 2010)

drcollins804 said:


> Its called humidity and it can be a lot. We either have an auto drain on all the tanks at work or a daily route to drain the air tanks of condensation. BTY a 100 gal tank can accumulate over 2 gallons of water in 24 hours in a humid environment. That is also what the filter in the regulator is for. Water and Oil removal. Water spells death to air tools. Also sounds like a very appropriate topic in a woodworking tools forum.:laughing: Though not really a review.
> David


Ok. I misunderstood what he was saying. But while we're on the topic. The water vapor is called moisture. The measure of the amount of "moisture" is called humidity! :huh:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

drcollins804 said:


> Its called humidity and it can be a lot. We either have an auto drain on all the tanks at work or a daily route to drain the air tanks of condensation. BTY a 100 gal tank can accumulate over 2 gallons of water in 24 hours in a humid environment. That is also what the filter in the regulator is for. Water and Oil removal. Water spells death to air tools. Also sounds like a very appropriate topic in a woodworking tools forum.:laughing: Though not really a review.
> David



Under ideal humid conditions compressor tanks, and airlines can become collectors and transmitters. The principle is simple. Humidity is a level of moisture in the air. When a compressor is running, it takes in the air to compress it into the tank.

In addition to that, in the compression of the air the air gets heated, which in turn will develop moisture. Some of that moist air will collect on the walls of the tank and some will stay in suspension for a short period and collect at the lowest point, which will be the bottom of the tank.

The moist air in suspension can exit the tank when an air hose is used. Now, we have a new source of collection...the air hose. Besides the hose carrying the moist compressed air, the movement of that air through the hose will develop its own source of warmth just by the friction of the movement and create moisture. What moisture doesn't get transferred to the hose will collect in the tank.

So, now you can see that there is a never ending source of moisture being utilized and created. How can moisture be controlled? There are a few remedies. An air dryer can be used which cools the air, and the water can be extracted, so you wind up with cool dry air. Dryers can be very expensive and usually wouldn't be part of a homeowners set-up. Very few professional shops on a small scale don't budget for driers.

An alternative method is to create a path for the air which allows for the collection and extraction of the water with a run of airline long enough to provide some cooling. For small shop conditions just installing a filter at the tank that handles the airline can be very ineffective. The fact that it's close to the air pressure, hot moist air can get blown past the filter. The air is warm at that location, and gets moved on along the air line.

The fix is to come off the tank with an airline, and have it placed at an incline, with a drain tap along the way. At the end of the airline, mount a filter. It also will have its own drain tap. Then from there, have your working line to the air tool, whether it being a spray gun, fastener, sander, drill, etc. To maximize collecting the air, install on the tool, a disposable filter. There are shapes to those filters that can be convenient to the tool. Some are *bulb shaped*, some are tube shaped, and they thread right on the tool, just like a QD fitting.

If you don't have the room for an elaborate layout system, fitting up a small compressor with an effective use of space can be helpful. *This thread* discusses how to configure a small space for a compressor, and a drawing which explains how to layout airlines with drain taps.


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

When I drain the tank using the drainplug on the bottom my finger gets wet,I dont like water in my tank so I drain it after each use.Water means rust unless you have a stainless steel tank.


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