# Second Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)



## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

About a year ago, I attempted to improve the DC on my TS. I documented it in this thread. Now, after a year of using it, I feel I should have done something different, so I am doing it now.


I decided to change up my DC on my TS. I have been working a lot more with cutting beveled edges on various pieces, and removing/reinstalling the aluminum cover I made for back of my Craftsman contractor type TS was getting to be a real pain. Since I wanted to cut more bevels, I thought I would build an enclosure around the motor that was hanging out the rear of my saw. 

I figured I would just post the pics, and if you have any questions, ask away.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)




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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)




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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*great ideas!*

Looks like the enclosure will become an outfeed table also. Cool!
:thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Below is the inspector that has been watching the build and making sure that it is up to HIS specifications.

























Well, Now all I have to do is trim off the laminate, chamfer the edges, and then route the grooves for the miter gauge slots. Then I just need to put a back panel on it (that I will be able to remove if I need to maintain the motor). I might also incorporate a folding outfeed extension too, but that may not happen for awhile..... at least till I need it.

Hope you liked it.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> Looks like the enclosure will become an outfeed table also. Cool!
> :thumbsup:


Thanks, Bill. You snuck in your comment before I was done uploading pics... Thanks for the compliment though. It means alot! :yes: :icon_smile:

As I was building it, I thought it would be good to make it an outfeed as well. It may not be long enough, but I figure I could also add a folding extension to this if need be.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*a tip for making the grooves*

When I made my outfeed table I used 1/2" MDF in 3 separate pieces, right, center and left.
I made 3/4" wide strips that I fit into the grooves, then butted my separate pieces against them with a shim to allow for free travel then I screwed them in place. That way they were exactly in the correct location and the correct width, no measuring or routing....:blink:


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looks great Fabian. I'm sure that will help you out a lot. Nice weekend to be making sawdust with the garage door open eh? :thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

OH dad, you hit the nail on the head. My "inspector" loved it too, since he was able to get outside. He gets bored sometimes in the shop, so when I can have the garage door open, he is in absolute heaven. He thoroughly enjoys the outdoors, and the garage is #2 on his list. 

There is also something nice when you have a nice breeze help clear away the "dusty air"

Only thing that sucks about this nicer weather, is that it outdoor projects take up a lot of my time.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Thanks for posting. Interesting build. Well executed. :thumbsup:

Creative solution to the problem of dust collection on a contractor style table saw. I love when a project solves multiple problems, or provides additional features. You get better dust collection and a useful outfeed support section.

I have a big outfeed extension on my saw. I would not want to use my saw without this extension. I can make cuts without worrying about trying to catch the piece before it falls off the table.

I would make a mental note to periodically blow out the dust from the motor. The open design of the motor rotor is likely to collect more dust due to the enclosure.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Dave Paine said:


> Thanks for posting. Interesting build. Well executed. :thumbsup:
> 
> Creative solution to the problem of dust collection on a contractor style table saw. I love when a project solves multiple problems, or provides additional features. You get better dust collection and a useful outfeed support section.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your kind comments!

I'm really hoping that I do get good DC with this addition. My fear is that the dust would build up around the motor, and do some damage somehow. That is the reason why I originally went with the aluminum block off. Now my "laziness" has outweighed the concerns I had, but they are still concerns. 

The back of this enclosure will be removable, so that I can blow it out occasionally. I blew it out for the first time yesterday, and couldn't believe the amount of dust that came out of the motor housing!  :thumbdown:

I have also wanted an outfeed table of some sort ever since I bought the saw. When I started, we were parking 2 cars in the garage, so I didn't see how I would do this without a great deal of effort, so I came up with the solution pictured below. It is just a clampable roller stand to put on the table behind the saw.









It has worked most of the time, but certainly has its downfalls. Ideally, I am planning on making a table behind the saw that is the same height for use as an outfeed table. The table I currently have is way too large for what I need right now. However, I also have plans to make a better base for my TS, and want to do that first.

So many plans, and so little time.... Well, speaking of that, I have to get out to the garage and try to finish at least one of my current projects.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I got the enclosure/outfeed table finished. I had a heck of a time routing out those grooves. :wallbash::furious: Its too bad I didn't consider what Bill (woodnthings) said about using the spacers and separate pieces. :yes: Wish I would have thought of that. I think I was trying to hog out too much at one time. :thumbdown: Then when I thought I was finished, but turns out I didn't route the grooves wide enough. My osbourne miter gauge has a little disc that keep the miter gauge in is slot, and rides in the wider portion of the miter gauge slot (along the bottom of it).  When I went to advance my miter gauge, it got stuck. :cursing: I had to widen the grooves about a 1/16" on both side of each groove.

































Time will tell how well this works out. One thing is for sure.... I will be* real* glad to have that little bit of an outfeed table. :yes:


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## against_the_grain (Aug 15, 2010)

Great idea and execution. Will anxiously await your update on how well this improves your TS DC. 

Thanks.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

If nothing else, it looks nice and provides workpiece support. I'm sure it'll improve the dust collection too. Let us know how it works out.

It looks great :thumbsup:


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## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

You seem to have very nicely solved the issues those of us who have contractor's saws have with dust collection. I had once tried to enclose the back but leave the motor exposed. I went through a lot of cardboard mock-ups before accepting the fact that, once you put a bevel on the cut, the complexity of the design (when trying to keep the motor exposed) increases exponentially.

I'm anxious to hear how efficient your design is for collecting dust. The TS is the one tool in my shop that seriously needs DC improvements. Your design may be the answer. Thanks for sharing! :thumbsup:


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## srestrepo (Sep 28, 2012)

this is really nice. can't wait to see how efficient it is at collecting dust by the motor. also, nice touch on the beveling motor cut out. i know i would have forgotten that.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

*Well, back to the drawing board for the DC.....*

Well, it has been 2 weeks since I finished up this project and contintued on with my wifes recipe box. My table saw has seen heavy use during these two weeks. First of all, I LOVE THE OUTFEED portion of this improvement. I don't know how I got along without it.

When I was changing a blade yesterday, I happened to look inside the TS, and didn't like what I found. :blink: This is what I saw. I'm sorry if this pic isn't that good....









What you see in the above pic, is above the baby blue metal and black ducttape, is a PILE of sawdust in the motor compartment that I blocked off. I then opened up the back panel, and the pic below explains it all.  :thumbdown:









So I have already envisioned what I am going to do next, which is to make a metal "funnel" under that motor compartment, that will feed a DC connection. I had a feeling that what I had done with the bottom of that compartment didn't have enough pitch. 

I then vacuumed out all the dust in that compartment, and then blew out/vacuumed out the motor itself. After I am done with my wifes recipe box, this is #1 on my list to fix.


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

There may be another option to try first, DC need to draw as much air as they are pulling, You may try to open up a hole in the opposite side of the enclosure then where the DC port is, I see you are pulling air from under the saw and from around the motor. The problem could be you do not have enough air flow to keep the dust airborne until it gets sucked into the DC port. 

Just a thought.


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

forgot to add this.

Its like the vacuum cleaner in the house when the hose gets clogged and you look in the swirling chamber thingy and the stuff is just kinda sittin there...... then when you unclog the hose and it all starts whippin around like a mini tornado!!


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Wema826 said:


> There may be another option to try first, DC need to draw as much air as they are pulling, You may try to open up a hole in the opposite side of the enclosure then where the DC port is, I see you are pulling air from under the saw and from around the motor. The problem could be you do not have enough air flow to keep the dust airborne until it gets sucked into the DC port.
> 
> Just a thought.


:thumbsup: You bring up a great point, and one that did cross my mind, but it failed to stay there. :blink: I think I will try drilling a few holes by the other end and see if that helps. I could always fill those with caulk if they don't seem to be effective.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

or make one hole opposite the DC intake in the motor compartment and install a blast gate in that hole so the air into the compartment can be regulated to some extent. FWIW, i know the DC in the unisaw i had was quite effective because the collection fitting was directly opposite the louvered clean out door in the front of the saw. the pull of the DC was enhanced by the louvers admitting air which pulled out the dust. IMHO, wema826's on to something.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

The old path-of-least-resistance effect.

The straight leg of the "Y" has less pressure drop than the angled leg going to the motor, so more air may be going through the straight leg.

Toolguy1000's suggestion of a blast gate may help - if the dust collector is not being starved by the ductwork.

I have been on a crusade to reduce pressure losses to improve performance of the dust collector, especially at my lathe.

I replaced the clear plastic with wire flex duct with black all plastic duct. I replaced short radius 90 deg elbows with long radius elbows.

I reduced the length of the flex duct. 

I removed a Y and mounted two ducts on a lally column to use the same Y.

I removed the large "Y" at the dust collector since I am only using one duct connection.

Last I mounted the motor on the wall to eliminate the 90 deg elbow going into the fan.

All of these have made a large improvement in my airflow and suction.

I wish I had an anemometer, but I do not. I have to rely on the old hand over the duct test. In this test the improvement were impressive. As my hand approached the duct at the lathe, it jumped towards my hand. I had a buddy visit and I had him try the same, he jumped back as though the duct was alive. LOL.

I can also hear a lot more air noise at each of the tools.

So in addition to the table saw details, you may also want to review if you can help to increase performance of the overall system.

FYI, I have a 1 1/2HP Jet cannister and my ductwork is the typical 4in sewer pipe. Not ideal, but it is what I have to live with.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

You guys bring up some very valid points, and ones that I will start to address. Yesterday, I drilled some (5) 3/8" holes at the other end of the DC opening in the motor compartment. We will see if that has any effect.

Dave, I think you are really onto something with the wye going into the saw, and some of my other piping. That is why I started to rework my DC awhile back. I will be getting to that more soon, but have a couple other projects that I need to finish up first.

Thanks for the input guys. It is greatly appreciated! :thumbsup:


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## regesullivan (Jan 26, 2007)

Good job on the enclosure it looks like it very successfully closed off the external air flow. I know you went to a lot of trouble to fit the wye in place but if I were in your shoes I would try eliminating the wye and use the hole from the wye in the motor enclosure for make up air to see if it gets rid of the saw dust build up. Choke it off incrementally until you have good vacuum or negative pressure in the front of the saw but still keep some air moving the dust and chips away from the motor. If that works as well as I think it will you could close off the hole from the wye and make an adjustable vent or opening behind the motor so it will be getting just enough air from outside the saw. The added benefit is your motor would always be in "cool and clean" air flow.

I hope I am describing this in a way that is understandable. It sounds complicated but if you think of it as finding the best path or paths for the airflow it will make sense. You are striving for good airflow with just enough negative pressure in the saw cabinet to keep all of the air, dust and chips from escaping the saw and moving into the DC system.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

Nice job. contractor saw DC is always a challenge.

Oh and build yourself a step so you can reach across the saw.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

regesullivan said:


> Good job on the enclosure it looks like it very successfully closed off the external air flow. I know you went to a lot of trouble to fit the wye in place but if I were in your shoes I would try eliminating the wye and use the hole from the wye in the motor enclosure for make up air to see if it gets rid of the saw dust build up. Choke it off incrementally until you have good vacuum or negative pressure in the front of the saw but still keep some air moving the dust and chips away from the motor. If that works as well as I think it will you could close off the hole from the wye and make an adjustable vent or opening behind the motor so it will be getting just enough air from outside the saw. The added benefit is your motor would always be in "cool and clean" air flow.
> 
> I hope I am describing this in a way that is understandable. It sounds complicated but if you think of it as finding the best path or paths for the airflow it will make sense. You are striving for good airflow with just enough negative pressure in the saw cabinet to keep all of the air, dust and chips from escaping the saw and moving into the DC system.


If I understand you correctly, by adding the wye, I am, in a way, attacting the sawdust/chips to the motor area of the enclosure, but since there is not enough air flow, it isn't getting sucked into the DC duct. That makes sense to me. When I made the initial enclosure, I made sure to leave about the same amount (square footage wise) unblocked off, and around the saw blade, to promote the airflow to the initial duct. That was quite successful, but by adding the wye, it changed the dynamic of the airflow in the total enclosure. Thanks for pointing that out.

@ Cliff - What did you mean by a step to reach across the saw? Do you mean towards the outfeed table? I don't want to reach across a spinning blade if that is what you mean....


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

regesullivan said:


> but if I were in your shoes I would try eliminating the wye and use the hole from the wye in the motor enclosure for make up air to see if it gets rid of the saw dust build up.





thegrgyle said:


> ....... Yesterday, I drilled some (5) 3/8" holes at the other end of the DC opening in the motor compartment......


so any thoughts on the effectiveness of make up air across the motor with a single in cabinet pick up point vs. the original configuration?


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## regesullivan (Jan 26, 2007)

That is exactly what I was getting at. I had a similar saw before I got the R4512. I can tell you from experience you should keep the motor enclosure. Because if you close off the back of the saw only allowing two holes for the belt to travel through the belt will move plenty of fine dust out of the saw and into the air even if your pulling a good amount of air into the DC through those two little holes. Dust clings to the belt until it makes the turn around the pulley where centrifugal force takes over.

So again, great job on the motor enclosure, I wish I have thought of that years ago. It really looks great and seems to function well. If you can get the paths of air flow all working to move the dust and chips in the same direction I think you have a winner.


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## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

On the bottom of my TS I have one of these








With gravity working for you, anything that lands on the bottom of the TS cabinet gets sucked into the DC. The back of my TS is still open though and I'd say roughly 10-20% of the chips get thrown out the back.

I recently cleaned out the cabinet area below the blade. As always, a lot of chips had collected around the inside perimeter of the cabinet. In time they build to a point where they can't build any higher and they just fall into the DC port. I was considering installing angled pieces to prevent this buildup.

Had I installed a DC port on the side, the buildup in the cabinet would be a real problem unless I created some sort of setup that would help direct the chips toward the port. About the only thing I could imagine being really efficient would be to create a cyclone effect inside there. But that would quickly become complex. So for me, having the DC port on the bottom makes the most sense. 

Fabian, when I envisioned how I might incorporate your idea into my setup, I imagined a second DC port on the bottom of the box you built on the back of your TS. That would probably take care of most of the chips that you saw build up during use.

Still, I'm concerned about enclosing the motor in an environment filled with flying sawdust and wood chips. If you don't regularly clean out the motor fan vents, they could clog and cause the motor to overheat, and possibly burn out.


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## regesullivan (Jan 26, 2007)

toolguy1000 said:


> so any thoughts on the effectiveness of make up air across the motor with a single in cabinet pick up point vs. the original configuration?


Toolguy – I see we posted at the same moment yesterday!


I am not schooled in fluid dynamics so for what it’s worth… I think a single point of collection is very important and the points of entry for make up air should be used to control the path of air flow to keep the dust and chips moving to the collection point. Keep in mind you cannot add a single collection point to the motor enclosure until you completely separate the motor enclosure from the saw cabinet or eliminate the collection point in the saw cabinet. Also, doing so you would have two independent systems which is probably less efficient and definitely more complicated. Not to mention separating the two makes DC in the motor enclosure unnecessary.


I feel like I am hijacking this thread if so let me know… I’d be happy to start a new thread to get some of your thoughts on these random thoughts/ideas/questions.


I know it’s not practical but suppose you could take the opposite approach and have one point of air entry and multiple points of collection. Would there be any advantage?


Because dust and chips have mass (weight) bottom collection is more efficient because you have gravity on your side.

I notice a zci cuts down on the fine dust but makes little difference on the chips especially when cutting plastics. My assumption is these chips are getting thrown from the spinning blade. So would aiming a fine stream of compressed air through the gullet of the blade blow the chips out that would normally get thrown into the air above the blade?


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

thegrgyle said:


> So I have already envisioned what I am going to do next, which is to make a metal "funnel" under that motor compartment, that will feed a DC connection. I had a feeling that what I had done with the bottom of that compartment didn't have enough pitch.





Julie Mor said:


> Fabian, when I envisioned how I might incorporate your idea into my setup, I imagined a second DC port on the bottom of the box you built on the back of your TS. That would probably take care of most of the chips that you saw build up during use.
> 
> Still, I'm concerned about enclosing the motor in an environment filled with flying sawdust and wood chips. If you don't regularly clean out the motor fan vents, they could clog and cause the motor to overheat, and possibly burn out.


Julie, that is exactly what I was thinking about with the rear enclosure. I plan on making a bottom mount funnel, and hooking that up to the DC, possibly a separate run. I am also concerned about the motor burning out as well, so I will be keeping a watchful eye on it. What type of saw do you have, Julie? I was told if it is TEFC rated, then that is much better? Do you know if your motor is?





regesullivan said:


> I feel like I am hijacking this thread if so let me know… I’d be happy to start a new thread to get some of your thoughts on these random thoughts/ideas/questions.


Hijack away! I'm sure there are many other that have contractor saws, and hope to try to contain the Dust on them, just like I have attempted to. I have no problem with others giving insight. :thumbsup:


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## regesullivan (Jan 26, 2007)

Fabian, can you help me understand how moving the DC port from the side of the motor enclosure to a funnel in the bottom will help move the chips and dust any better? What I am thinking is you will still have the about same air flow. The only advantage I can picture is gravity will help a little if you can make the funnel work on the entire bottom of the motor enclosure but the motor will still be in the dust.
Rege


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## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

thegrgyle said:


> What type of saw do you have, Julie? I was told if it is TEFC rated, then that is much better? Do you know if your motor is?


Mine is a Delta Contractor's saw. It's around 20 years old. I've never looked but the motor is probably TEFC rated. I think most back then were. Still, even though the motor is enclosed, the fan vents can still get clogged and then lose cooling efficiency. For home shop use, that's probably not much of an issue. But if you were using the TS for production work, I could see vents getting blocked and the motor running hotter than it's designed to run.

I've never seen the inside of a cabinet saw and when this subject comes up I always think it would be interesting to see how the motor is installed and how much dust plays a part in interfering with cooling.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Julie Mor said:


> I've never seen the inside of a cabinet saw and when this subject comes up I always think it would be interesting to see how the motor is installed and how much dust plays a part in interfering with cooling.


I have a Delta Unisaw which has a TEFC motor (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled). I see a fine coating of fine dust on the motor and trunnions, but no build up on the fan.

The early Unisaws had vents but no dust collection. There was a thread in the Power Tools forum on a restoration of one of these recently where this was discussed and how to retrofit to add a dust port.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

the unisaw i rehabbed and sold had impressive dust collection. the collector fitting in the base, which was there when i acquired the saw, coupled with the louvers in the dust clean out door, the fabrication of a motor cover in conjunction with the installation of a floor in the cabinet base and the motor fan (which kept the air inside the cabinet churning during all cutting operations) effectively removed all but what accumulated in the base's corners.

in looking over fabian's motor enclosure, it looks like the two dust collection ports are competing within the saw cabinet and motor enclosure. perhaps a better approach would be to reconfigure the enclosure so that the saw cabinet and motor enclosure share a common single lowest collection point. not splitting the air flow volume between two collection points would increase the effectiveness at the single collection point and gravity would send any dust finding it's way back into the motor enclosure down to the shared collection point. the only remaining difficulty would be the ledge within the saw cabinet that accumulates dust. i've not yet seen anyone beat that one.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

regesullivan said:


> Fabian, can you help me understand how moving the DC port from the side of the motor enclosure to a funnel in the bottom will help move the chips and dust any better? What I am thinking is you will still have the about same air flow. The only advantage I can picture is gravity will help a little if you can make the funnel work on the entire bottom of the motor enclosure but the motor will still be in the dust.
> Rege


Like you said, Rege, I think the funnel under it would have gravity on it side, and get the bulk of the chips/dust out of there. Will it eliminate all dust from the motor... NO. Will it make my life easier having it enclosed? Yes. Will it damage the motor in the long run being in a dusty environment? Probably yes. I plan to keep an eye on this, and will be doing improvements as I go along.



toolguy1000 said:


> in looking over fabian's motor enclosure, it looks like the two dust collection ports are competing within the saw cabinet and motor enclosure. perhaps a better approach would be to reconfigure the enclosure so that the saw cabinet and motor enclosure share a common single lowest collection point. not splitting the air flow volume between two collection points would increase the effectiveness at the single collection point and gravity would send any dust finding it's way back into the motor enclosure down to the shared collection point. the only remaining difficulty would be the ledge within the saw cabinet that accumulates dust. i've not yet seen anyone beat that one.


I totally agree with you in that 2 collection ports are competing and decreasing the effectiveness. I will probably start looking at doing a single collection point, or possibly enlarging the DC duct going to the saw, and then splitting off to the separate ports. I don't know.... this is a work in progress, and I greatly appreciate the brainstorming that everyone is doing to help.


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## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

I was playing around with AutoCAD to see if I could come up with a single port dust collection box for the contractor's table saw. I'm thinking something like this should work. 










I also believe the issue of dust buildup in the motor vents shouldn't be as much an issue with the motor being up high and that area being the largest. I would think most of the dust and chips would have made their way to the bottom before any could reach the vents.

Any comments?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Julie Mor said:


> I also believe the issue of dust buildup in the motor vents shouldn't be as much an issue with the motor being up high and that area being the largest. I would think most of the dust and chips would have made their way to the bottom before any could reach the vents.
> 
> Any comments?


The area within the cabinet is going to have a LOT of turbulence. The chips and dust will be flying all over the place. Some will end up in undesired locations. It will be prudent to periodically check the vents on an open motor.

I think you are on the right track to achieve a single port and catchment area.

I would make the port horizontal. This avoids a 90 deg elbow. I think most people do not appreciate the pressure drop losses from fittings.

I have been on a crusade to improve the performance of my dust collector, especially at the lathe. Reducing the number of fittings and lengths of flex hose made a big reduction in losses which translated to large improvement in airflow and static pressure at the tools.


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## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

Dave Paine said:


> The area within the cabinet is going to have a LOT of turbulence. The chips and dust will be flying all over the place.


I don't know but it would be interesting to see just how much waste gets kicked around in there. You have a portion of the blade, the belt and the pulley as the only "agitators" of dust and debris inside there. Of course the spinning blade puts a lot of velocity into the waste but what effect does a larger space have on how quickly it settles? 

Once you add the dust collector into the equation you create an air flow towards the DC port. The only other factors that would affect waste movement would be intake ports one might add to help move things toward the DC port. A plexiglass back would answer a lot of the questions.

On another forum, someone suggested placing one end of a flex hose over the fan end of the motor and cutting a hole in the side of the box and "exhausting" the other end out there. That way the motor fan vents would be isolated from whatever is happening inside the box. I just don't know how it would work once you bevel the blade.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Well, I stopped by Baileigh's national HQ yesterday, and took a look at some of their saws, and got some ideas regarding DC.... It gave me some great ideas for me to implement.... Can't wait till I have time to do so. 

Of course, this all will be moot if I end up winning the competition, and/or buy one of their saws.... One can dream, can't he?


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Julie Mor said:


> On another forum, someone suggested placing one end of a flex hose over the fan end of the motor and cutting a hole in the side of the box and "exhausting" the other end out there. That way the motor fan vents would be isolated from whatever is happening inside the box. I just don't know how it would work once you bevel the blade.


I had put some serious thought into doing something exactly like what was mentioned. I didn't have the room in my housing when I thought of it, though, when the blade was beveled at a full 45 degrees. The motor is REALLY close to the bottom surface of the outfeed table. Maybe, if I end up redoing it, I would seriously look into it.


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## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

Please be sure to lets us know if the holes you drilled helped the problem or not as I have been planning something similiar for my Craftsman TS. 



thegrgyle said:


> :thumbsup: You bring up a great point, and one that did cross my mind, but it failed to stay there. :blink: I think I will try drilling a few holes by the other end and see if that helps. I could always fill those with caulk if they don't seem to be effective.


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