# Band mill blade sharpening



## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

I have been using this guy in North GA to get my blades sharpened. I can cut about 6 logs 12 or 13 inches around 8 feet long with a brand new blade from wood mizer. with these blades ive gotten sharpened I can only cut 3 big logs like that. maybe 4 is theyre smaller than 12 inches. these are pine logs. the blade also starts to travel after the 2nd log. not major just a little. itll plane out but still. the mill blade guides are correctly adjusted. the blade tension is also correct.they also tent to cut with a slight convex on the wood after the 2nd log or so. I honestly don't think the pitch is right because they still feel very sharp when I touch them. I compaired the bad blade with a sharp blade and it feels the same. I think next time ill send back to wood mizer.unless one of you guys have the proper equipment and can do a good job.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

MidGa,
I don't recall/remember your saw brand but I have a hud-son.....I think you have other saw issues also UNLESS your not cleaning your logs or using enough lubricant. I'm cutting 5-6 24" hardwood logs on a blade....you should get alot more than that in pine.

Cook's sawmill website has GREAT info on setting up a saw to cut flat and true...I went through the steps and improved my saw by 100-200%.

Re-sharpening is a exacting art!!!!! MOST want to remove too much metal at one time and it heats and destroys the temper.....so part of your trouble could be there also. sent some back to woodmizer and see the results.

Without a blade tension guage (I have a Lenox) you'll never know if it's set right and EVERY manufacture has differ specs. IF your running belted wheels don't use petroleum based lubricants.


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## Logger (Nov 26, 2009)

If there is a crown after you make a cut and the dust is smashed on the log/cant I find its a set problem (not enough). If he does not set the blade it can feel sharp but will not cut flat. I set the teeth of the blade then sharpen, seems to give me the best results.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Logger said:


> If there is a crown after you make a cut and the dust is smashed on the log/cant I find its a set problem (not enough). If he does not set the blade it can feel sharp but will not cut flat. I set the teeth of the blade then sharpen, seems to give me the best results.


That is also a sign the blade is not set parallel with bed on sawdeck. This is just as critical as not enough set. With a new blade and full set you may not be noticing.....but after a resharp and no set adjustment it's trying to run the true path of resistance.

Tim Cook/ Cooks sawmills goes in depth on blade set-up.....I would STRONGLY recommend ALL sawyers/owners to read his guide.....it will bring insite to alot of sawing issues....YES I'm staying with rubber belted wheels BUT the rest of info was tremedous knowledge to have.

MidGa, I meant ...."send" some blades back to woodmizer..." , The edit time is too short for me.

Hey I noticed the woodworking fair is in Atlanta Aug 20-23 ....Woodmizer to be there...I haven't checked the list for others.....4 hrs for me to travel but it could be worth new knowledge!!!


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## Logger (Nov 26, 2009)

I agree Tim. The op said everything was set up correct that's why I said maybe its the set. Im 1/4 sawing white oak today and is looking real nice.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Logger,
Please post us some pics of that...in a new thread, not to hi-jack this one. Thanks.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

yes plz post pics of the w/o...in another thread of course.
Tim, where in atl is that woodworking show? yes I have a Hudson mill....Oscar 118. ill oook into the cooks guide. this cupping is something that just started. the mill hasn't been hit or knocked around and it is shelter kept.

Logger, do you have the setup for sharpening and setting teeth? you interested?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

The International Woodworking Fair www.iwfatlanta.com


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## Logger (Nov 26, 2009)

I will be 1/4 sawing again next week hopefully and I will try for pics, logs are here but there is a bunch of cherry and walnut in front of the white oak and the weather looks to be wet next week. As for sharping/ setting, I just have norwoods sharpener /setter and they work well but would not be able to make $ custom sharping as there just to slow (manual).


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

ill just send to WM then. I don't have the time or patience or money for that machine.


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

Before Logmaster went out of business, I was using their bands and sending them back to Logmaster for sharpening. The re-sharpened bands were basically no good. I tried three different ones on a small (12"), green Hickory log and could not get through an 8' cut without the band taking a severe nose-dive. I finally put on a new band and got the two logs sawed.

After that, I started using Cooks bands and there was absolutely no comparison. They cut faster, smoother and lasted much longer before dulling. I have not sent any of them in for sharpening yet but I expect their resharps will be acceptable, too.

If a new band cuts and lasts well and a resharpened band doesn't, it's not the saw setup, it's the sharpening service.

I have a friend who saws for hire with a Woodmizer LT40 hydraulic and he simply tosses his dull bands. He doesn't have a sharpener or a setter and says that the few dollars per blade saved by having them resharpened isn't worth it to him. He only uses new bands.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

I as ETWW believe a new bandblade is probable the sharpest it will be...resharpening can and will change some metallurgy in the band from the regrind....now that said, I have a man that does a good job resharpening my bands BUT they aren't as the new ones but run very well.

Now on saw set-up...I can take a saw set semi-close to specs with a new blade and not show signs of alignment issues and re sharp that blade and issues start showing up. This has to do with kerf settings... a new blade is usually stiffer and hold tolerances better...the round and round flexing along with WE usually push a blade a few more feet effect metal...when we have resharpen and reset the teeth they sometimes flex back some making the kerf not as wide AND if saw is semi-close in alignment the blade can also wonder/follow the narrower path made from that blade.....I KNOW...MY saw was there until I took the time to set them true.
MidGa, I'm guessing these are the first resharps you've used since saw was new....about 7-10 blades ago??? (that was the average # of new blades my clients bought)....this was also the approx# I used before resharp and updates to my saw. I hope you get this issue fixed soon...I'm going through the sawing(lack of) withdrawals due to LACK of time.....and erecting a new drying shed.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

I run this thing when I have time. I mean run it. I bought 5 blades with it. used them ordered 5 wood mizer blades used some of them. sent to sharpening. used remaining blades. used resharp blades and sent again. I cleaned the mill. tracks wheels that the carrage rolls on etc. I also started back with soapy water. I ran that blade that was on there that was cupping. after cleaning and lubing before each cut I cut a total of 4.5 logs with it. It stared cupping again and lubing didn't help but it was a .041 mujnkfors sager Swedish crap blade. lol. changed to a wood mizer .035 blade and no issues so far. message me ur guys info and ill get in touch with him. I have some that need doing again.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Munksfors are the ones I'm going to change to on my next bulk purchase, but that's what works for me. 

.041's are thick for your saw wheel diameter and the .035's will last longer for you. The correct psi makes a large difference in cutting. The munksfors are set at approx. 32,000 psi compared to woodmizers approx 24,000 psi. 

Your resharpening, was they all done by the same company??? You also stated you ran the cupping blade after cleaning saw and cut 4.5 more logs before it started cupping again...that seems to me to be another issue or it wouldn't have cut straight...maybe I miss read??? Are you running mixed blades....I have to watch my tensions due to I'm finishing up using my used woodmizers also.

From my understanding the pine requires a lot of soapy lubricant, some say pinesol works good for pine sap.

I'll see if I can find my guys website but shipping this far probably not be profitable for you on small quantities. woodmizer and munksfors/kennesaw corp. have a location near you I think.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

that guy I got the mill from said 40ftlbs for blade tension. yea I have WM and Munkfors blades. Munkfors blades are thicker than WM and are hard on my machine. I cut 2 logs and it started. cleaned all and cut 2.5 more and it started again.. WM has a place in Newnan GA. this guy rips me on shipping.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

oh. yes the same guy did it all.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

MidGAOutdoor said:


> that guy I got the mill from said 40ftlbs for blade tension. yea I have WM and Munkfors blades. Munkfors blades are thicker than WM and are hard on my machine. I cut 2 logs and it started. cleaned all and cut 2.5 more and it started again.. WM has a place in Newnan GA. this guy rips me on shipping.


This is NOT the correct way to check/set tension UNLESS you've checked it with a guage on the blade. With my bandwheel size and woodmizer blades I found mine required 45 psi (I have a different size bolt than yours), more than Hud-son said and the Munkfors @ 55 lbs. of torque. That's why a guage is the only accurate way with the hud-son setup. 

Does your saw have a watering tank??? If not you need to add one. IF you can clean and it stops then saws straight again, that means it's NOT in the set OR the blade.


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

The LM-1 Logmaster mill I have specifies 85 ft. lbs of tension. I set it with a torque wrench on the tensioning bolt but I only go to about 65 ft. lbs. At 85, I was breaking too many bands.

A cold band will shrink after sawing a bit as the band heats up and will need the tension adjusted...and again when it cools off.

If I'm sawing Pine construction lumber, I use diesel as a lube. It works well cutting Pine sap but it will stain the lumber. If I'm sawing wood that I will use for woodworking projects, I use water with a bit of Cascade DW detergent.


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