# loose tenon stock



## woodmeistro (Jul 9, 2010)

I have a project that I want to try loose tennons on but not sure what is the best way to cut the loose tennon stock, I have a router table. I was thinking of ripping it to width and thickness on the table saw and then rounding over the edge with a roundover bit, it will need to be 1''x1/2'' and then I could cut them to the desired length. is this the right approach


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

woodmeistro said:


> I have a project that I want to try loose tennons on but not sure what is the best way to cut the loose tennon stock, I have a router table. I was thinking of ripping it to width and thickness on the table saw and then rounding over the edge with a roundover bit, it will need to be 1''x1/2'' and then I could cut them to the desired length. is this the right approach


 
Sounds good to me. :thumbsup:

Be sure and use featherboard down. :yes:


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

That is the way I do it. I got started using loose tenon construction from watching David Marks.


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

pretty much what I do. If it is to be a 1/2" mortise that you do with a 1/2" router bit, then you would use a 1/4" round over bit on 1/2" stock

i've not done a 3/8" mortise using this method (loose that is), but I'd probably do some test tenons using the same 1/4" round over and just back it off a little. Might need a little sanding on the rounded areas, not 100% sure.


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## woodmeistro (Jul 9, 2010)

I used the loose tennons this weekend for the frame of an arts and crafts style hutch for my kitchen, I used a Mortise Pal to cut the mortises and it workded great. Thanks for the feed back, I will post pictures when I have it completed :thumbsup:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It might be easier to fit a somewhat square cornered tenon into a square cornered mortise (which could be easier to make). Then the corners of the mortise can be square, and the corners of the tenon can be slightly eased. 












 









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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> It might be easier to fit a somewhat square cornered tenon into a square cornered mortise (which could be easier to make). Then the corners of the mortise can be square, and the corners of the tenon can be slightly eased.


if you are making your mortise with a router, then it be round from square one (lol... see what I did there?)

So, then you are left with the choice of squaring up the mortise, or using rounded tenon. I go with the rounded tenon. ... but then again, it depends on what I'm doing, so sometimes I do square up the mortise


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

"I can name that tune in....notes(cuts)" or some such.

Seriously,when making decisions on this or that setup,procedure,ect.......just remember above.How many trips across cutting edge will this setup take....thats plan A.Then run(through your head)a plan B...and so on.

Paying particular attention to any safety issues that may be deciding factor in which plan you use.And any other extinuating(sp) issues which are involved with this particular gig.

How quickly you can run the diff. plans through your noggin comes with practice.But it is one of the foundations of estimating time and project cost.New tooling is great.....but you have to have realistic "usage" factors(how many times a year are you actually gonna use this new wiz-bang machine).BW

PS Fine WW did a series of articles a few years ago on comparing different mortise methods.Might google?


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

I use lose tenons exclusively.
I make my stock in my JP. 
If I am feeling fussy I'll edge it on the router table. Usually I can't be bothered. 
Besides:
I have identified a very strong benefit to having loose tenons with square edges in slots made with a round cutter. 
That void gives the squeeze out a place to go.


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## Ole_Rellik (Aug 5, 2015)

I use loose tenons all the time. I use bullnose bits to cut the sides on the tenons. They are relatively inexpensive and come in a wide range of sizes, including 3/8" diameter.


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