# Antique Vise



## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I was able to buy antique bench vise at an auction yesterday. Its an Abernathy No. 70. It was rusted and frozen, but no longer. I would like to repaint it the original color. I think they used to use enamel pre-1925, and am having trouble finding someone to color match enamel paint in a spray can. Does anyone have a suggstion where I should go? Thank you for any help.


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## ntrusty (Feb 21, 2012)

Pics???


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

I would probably do it by hand in which case any paint shop could mix the colour you want. 

+1 on pics, love to see it.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I took the pic at 5am before going to work, so it isnt great.I will take more as I progress. Thank you for the help.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

+1 with DaveTTC. You will not find anyone who does custom spray cans, but lots of places will mix a custom colour in small quantities, like a quart.

If you are able to do something different, you could consider japanning, as was common on hand planes. Not original, but you may be able to find a dye/tint which is close to the original colour.

http:http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/pla.../japanning.htm


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

Is jappanning a process similar to bluing on a rifle barrel?


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I just read about it. Thank you vwry much. I also found a recommendation for using molasses to remove rust. Apparently you soak your part until the rust is gone.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Ryan Walden said:


> Is jappanning a process similar to bluing on a rifle barrel?


I think of these as very different. japanning applied a coat of e.g, shellac and dye then bakes this in the oven.

Bluing dipping in oil then heating up the metal to achieve a particular oxide colour.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Ryan Walden said:


> I just read about it. Thank you vwry much. I also found a recommendation for using molasses to remove rust. Apparently you soak your part until the rust is gone.


I am not sure molasses will do much for rust except make the part very sticky.

The product to soak the item in to remove rust is called "Evapo-Rust". Sold at many hardware stores, and also Harbor Freight.

It is not cheap. You will need the gallon container. You will need to disassemble the vise so that the parts can be completely submerged.

Leave this overnight.

I recommend cleaning off any easy to remove rust, since it saves consuming the Evapo-Rust, which can be reused, but not indefinitely.

To remove the easy rust, I use Permetex Fast Orange with Pumice. This is a hand cleaner. The Fast Orange will remove grim/grease and the pumice works on the rust. Very easy. Use an old toothbrush or a brass brush or some pieces of wet-dry paper.


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I am on my way. Thank you, I really appreciate the great help you all have been. I will post pictures when its back together.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Ryan Walden said:


> I just read about it. Thank you vwry much. I also found a recommendation for using molasses to remove rust. Apparently you soak your part until the rust is gone.


Molasses does in fact work! Its a mess but if you just happen to have a farm with plenty on hand for the cattle it's an option. Otherwise you are better off with Evaporust when trying to preserve some non-removable detail such as the japanning on a hand plane body. 

Im usually the FIRST to suggest evaporust for hand planes and other tools but in the case of this vise I'd suggest electrolysis as the best and cheapest option. 

You want to remove the paint, evaporust will not and remove the rust only where there is no paint, so it will still require sandblasting or thorough wire brushing prior to painting. 

With electrolysis the paint will loosen and be easily removed. Also it's cheap. If you have an automotive battery charger all you'd need is a 5 gallon bucket of water and a $5 box of washing soda. 

Nice vice, good luck with the restore! I look forward to seeing the finished pictures!


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Nice looking vice, if you decide to paint by hand warming up the enamel can help it flow better and finish flat. You would need to apply it thin and a few coats to avoid runs if you do it that way.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## HandToolGuy (Dec 10, 2011)

Great vice. Please keep the pictures coming as your rehab progresses.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

firemedic said:


> Molasses does in fact work!


It is good to learn something. In this case that molasses can remove rust.

I would hate the clean up though. :thumbdown:

Hot water and Dawn detergent may help a lot, but it would still be a mess.

I have not tried electrolysis yet.

I also read that citric acid is an alternative to Evapo-Rust. I have not tried to get hold of any yet to compare.


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I have done some research. TSC has a 50 LB bag of dry molasses for 13.00. The ratio to water is 1:8 or 1:9, which is roughly 13 to 16 oz per gallon. It is a chemical process and there might be a risk to brass. The threaded insert in the vise nut is brass. I will keep you posted. You all have been great.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Ryan Walden said:


> I have done some research. TSC has a 50 LB bag of dry molasses for 13.00. The ratio to water is 1:8 or 1:9, which is roughly 13 to 16 oz per gallon. It is a chemical process and there might be a risk to brass. The threaded insert in the vise nut is brass. I will keep you posted. You all have been great.


If you are worried about the brass you may be able to screw a short bolt in with a washer the size of the insert so as to protect it. Milk cartons can be used as gaskets if you want a good protective seal.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I am liking firemedic's idea about the electrolysis. I have heard of it and will search out the details. It sounds faster and easier on the brass. The insert is around 60% of the circumference and wedged into a forged recess in the nut. I worry about banging on it too much and want to work around it.


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## PaliBob (May 15, 2010)

Dave Paine said:


> ..... "Evapo-Rust". Sold at many hardware stores, and also Harbor Freight.......


Not cheaper but here it is at HFT for a Gallon
and a Quart


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Ryan Walden said:


> I am liking firemedic's idea about the electrolysis. I have heard of it and will search out the details. It sounds faster and easier on the brass. The insert is around 60% of the circumference and wedged into a forged recess in the nut. I worry about banging on it too much and want to work around it.


This thread from July has the details of how another forum member sets up his electrolysis.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/paint-hand-plane-41346/


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I have done some more research and will be picking up the things I do not have in the morning. Apparently, if I use the Arm and Hammer Washing Soda, sodium carbonate, I will not harm the brass. Using other chemicals can leach the zinc out of the brass causing it to be brittle. I will get started tomorrow around noon and post before and after pictures later on. Thanks for all the help.


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## lateralus819 (Jul 22, 2012)

I don't know about all shops, but a local auto body paint supply store does in fact custom mix paints in spray cans. I had a bunch made for my last truck. Good luck.


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

My wife's uncle has a small spray gun he is loaning me. Lucked out. Thanks a lot though.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Good deal Ryan, I'm looking forward to seeing the after picture from the electrolysis! Also very happy to hear you found an (I assume) HVLP gun, that really will be your best best for a smooth even finish. Don't be afraid to take a file and or sand paper to it prior to painting... The finish is only as good as the surface it's on.

Good luck!


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I thought I would give an update. The biggest part, one of the jaws and the two pressed guides have been in about 7 hours now. Tomorrow could be my warmest day to paint, I hope everything is done in time. Oh well, we will see.


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

This was around 9.5 hours. I think it looks good. Did a little more scrubbing and got the other jaw in.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Thanks for the update. This cleaned up very well. :thumbsup:


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Ryan Walden said:


> I was able to buy antique bench vise at an auction yesterday. Its an Abernathy No. 70. It was rusted and frozen, but no longer. I would like to repaint it the original color. I think they used to use enamel pre-1925, and am having trouble finding someone to color match enamel paint in a spray can. Does anyone have a suggstion where I should go? Thank you for any help.


Some auto parts stores can custom blend spray paints. 

The other option is an inexpensive airbrush.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Looking good, Ryan!


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## strippedscrew (Oct 28, 2012)

The active ingedient in molasses is phosphoric acid. You know when a well used baking tray is taken from the oven to clean? Shot of acid will remove it like magic. We used to use it where I work untill about 18 months ago. It came in a aerosol can. You can't miss it if you come across it. It looks like this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid

Electrolyis works. You need a bucket, length of rebar, battery charger, (2-4 amps), don't go over 4, some borax & water. Make sure that you hook the positive and negitive correctly or you'll screw up big time.

Just bought a new "used" vise myself on Sept. 21. Drove a 1,100 + mile round trip to Portland Or., to get it.

(1st post)


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

We couldn't find a clean flat spot at the store, so we couldn't color match. We went with the color formula book which apparently isn't very accurate. Anyway, it finished drying in the house overnight.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

That looks terrific! Excellent job! Be sure that bare steel is protected, :smile:

So, what now?... What's next on your project docket?


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I have storage shelves in my garage. I have an idea to build a shallow cabinet on hinges hanging on the shelves. That way I can access the shelves by swinging the cabinet out of the way. Also, in addition to work, I go to school full time. I am in an accounting class right now, its my toughest class.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Cool man. I hated Accounting classes... and I had quite a bit of it with a BSBA and AS in Finance lol


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

The dog is loose and operating properly. I just touched the paint up after.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

never got back after the painting was done ... looks good


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