# What Can You Do with A Cheap Router?



## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Hi there, Everyone:

There is an old craftsman 1 horsepower stationary router that accepts 1/4 inch bits for around $20 in my neighborhood. It's been listed for a while, so maybe he will take $10? Who knows... but it doesn't come with any bits at all.

But what can you actually _*DO*_ with a 1 HP stationary router that wouldn't be easier to do with some other _AFFORDABLE_ tools - like a plane... or a steak knife... or a pointy stick??? 

I would love to be able to use it to make mortise cuts and dadoes, but from what I understand, I would have to be living on Fantasy Island to do that with this basic of a router. :boat:

The other thing is it would be nice to put some edges / chamfer on things, but since I am on a budget, I can't go around blowing money on lots of bits if the results are going to be marginal at best :icon_sad:

Anyway, thanks in advance. If you ever had to make do with a budget router in the past, would love to hear your experiences.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I had a Craftsman 1 HP for years*

I didn't do much with it, because I didn't need to. I gave it away to a friend. But now I have a "bunch" of routers. That particular router, if it's like my old one, is a constant speed, about 20 K rpm and useful for chamfering, rounding over edges, making small profiles, trimming laminate and such. It's sort of in between a trim router and a more powerful one. You won't waste your money on 1/4" bits if you stick to the basics. You will need 1/2" bits when you make deeper cuts, wider mortises and larger profiles. You can get a speed control at HF to slow it down if you need to... $15.00 or so. If it's in decent or rarely used condition it's worth $20.00 or so. :yes: bill


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I've got an old Craftsman router my Dad left me. Single speed, 25k I think. Does a great job on small jobs, roundovers, flush trim, makes for a great dovetail router as the visibility is superb. Short answer is I don't do a heck of a lot with it I couldn't do with one of my others but, for $15-20 what the heck. :smile:
You can pick up a cheap set of 1/4" bits from Grizzly or MLCS for around $30 which will give you the basic bits, straight, roundover, cove, flush trims etc....
I picked up this set just to use with my Colt... the ones with purple paint are pretty decent for the money.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Router-Bit-12-pc-Set-1-4-Shank/H5560


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Wow! Thank you both!!! I was kind of expecting that people might suggest using it as a paper weight, or a door stop, or something like that, so now I am kind of excited by the prospect.

Let me ask you this:

There is another craftsman fixed based router, but a little bit of a step up. This one is a variable speed, and is 1 and 3/4 horsepower. However, it still only seems to take 1/4 inch shank bits - of which, none are included.

so in my newbie hands and low, low budget, would it be better to spend the extra $20 on the more powerful router with variable speed? Or would it be better to get the less powerful router and spend the $20 difference on a bit set?

Or is there an Option C that you can suggest?

Thanks again.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I've got one just like jschaben - from my Dad, single speed 25k, 1/4". I use it all the time as it is the only one I have. I use it for round overs, rabbits, etc. I don't think you will gain that much by going with the 1 3/4 HP router as you will still be using 1/4" bits and it will still be underpowered for larger jobs. As you are limited on funds I would go with the cheaper router (assuming it runs and is in good condition) and spending your extra money on bits.


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## 65BAJA (May 27, 2012)

I have an old Craftsman 1 hp router in a small Craftsman router table. Works just fine. :thumbsup:


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks so much, guys! Really appreciate it.

Now I just have to see what the bank account says. I got a $65 parking ticket the other day :furious: so right now my tool budget is mostly made up of "sofa change" and whatever I can siphon off from my son's college fund 

Thanks again.


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## Jake80 (Aug 3, 2012)

i got a nice used router table for 50, for my cheap router. its not great, but has did everything i needed as a hobist. roundovers, ogio's, mdf rabbits. makes the jobs go a lot faster. i have made around 1000 ft of baseboards for my basement using a cheap router and cheap router table, and cheap bits. i think the brand of bit was skill. so if i were you after buying some bits try to find a cheap table. i mounted the thing on an old nightstand. cheap is the best way to go. imo. good luck wood


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

The variable speed is a desireable option but just throwing 1/4" shank bits, one that has marginal utility. The speed control is mostly used in conjunction with larger bits however I also slow the motor speed down in situations where it is difficult or unsafe to maintain a relatively high feed rate. Speed is what equates to burning. To high of a bit speed and/or to slow of a feed rate.
Router tables are very cheap and easy to make. 16" x 24" piece of plywood with a hole in it. Can even be smaller, whatever size you want. Fence would be a straight board with a notch in it and a couple of clamps. Likely the most expensive part is a mounting plate for the router but that is also optional. Helps preserve some cut depth though.:smile:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Heck I would grab them both. You're spending more than that on parking your car.:laughing:

As for the ¼" shank controversy, I don't break ¼" shanks. Solid carbide bits are more brittle. For those that break ¼" shanks, I suggest change your operating technique. There is a great variety of bits you can use in those routers. Lower powered routers can do substantial work by making a few passes, adjusting the depth of cut, and adjusting the feed rate accordingly.










 







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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I would buy the cheaper, old router.
You can bolt it under a piece of plywood for table routing. I have even clamped a wood fence to the base of a router clamped in a vise, for "table routing"
Even if in the future you guy a bigger router, you may want to keep the old one, and keep a roundover bit in it, ready for use.
I used a cheapo Craftsman router for quite a while, before upgrading. 

Remember, it's the sword that counts. It's the swordsman! 
But sometimes a nice sword makes the difference!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Pirate said:


> Remember, it's the sword that counts. It's the swordsman!


That doesn't sound right. Did you mean "Remember, it's NOT the sword that counts."










 







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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks again, Everyone!!! I really, really appreciate it!

My only other concern is that aside from doing the "edging" (or trim, I still am unsure what to call it...), I am kind of looking for a way to more easily do mortise cuts or dadoes.

I heard that I *CAN'T* use a fixed base router for mortise / dado cuts. I heard that you need a plunge router to do mortise cuts. Is that correct? 

I thought, at the very least, I could START a mortise hole with my _electric drill_ and an appropriate size drill bit (maybe a brad point bit???), then complete it with the router. Would that work?

Thanks again in advance.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

> Likely the most expensive part is a mounting plate for the router but that is also optional.


John:

I think I would like to build a router table. How hard would it be to FIND a mounting plate for my router? Are they all standard sizes? Or are they all different sizes?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Wood4Brains said:


> I heard that I *CAN'T* use a fixed base router for mortise / dado cuts. I heard that you need a plunge router to do mortise cuts. Is that correct?
> 
> I thought, at the very least, I could START a mortise hole with my _electric drill_ and an appropriate size drill bit (maybe a brad point bit???), then complete it with the router. Would that work?


A plunge router is easier to use to make a mortise, but I have used a fixed router to make a mortise. Just have to be careful. I used to tilt the router on the base so the bit was not contacting. Start the router, then SLOWLY pivot the router to get the bit started. Then move the router side to side as needed to make the cut.

Definitely want to have your stop blocks clamped to define the width of the cut.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Wood4Brains said:


> John:
> 
> I think I would like to build a router table. How hard would it be to FIND a mounting plate for my router? Are they all standard sizes? Or are they all different sizes?


If you purchase a router top from e.g. Bench Dog, Jessem, Kreg or Woodpeckers, the hole will be made to fit their own router plates.

If you are making your own router top, then you can make the router plate any size you need.

I have a piece of phenolic which I purchased to make a router plate, but then purchased one. I can throw this in a care package if you want.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

I, of course, appreciate the offer :smile: :smile: :smile:

However, maybe I should look into what phenolic is (hello, wikipedia) and see if I can MAKE one? I have a "bunch o' tools" now, and I guess I should try to use them to actually _MAKE_ something :no:

So I will try and make it first, fail miserably, and _THEN_ ask if you could send one to me. :laughing:

The pit bulls and I thank you again :smile:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Wood4Brains said:


> maybe I should look into what phenolic is


Sorry, the purpose of a router plate is to get the base of the router as close to the top of the table as possible.

You could in theory rout out from the BOTTOM of the table and mount the router directly to the top, this just make changing bits more of a challenge, since it would be a pain to remove the router. You would be needing to lift the table top and unscrew. If you had the special crank neck wrenches, you may be able to change bits from above.

The key requirement for a router plate, is to be strong, flat, and relatively thin, to get the router base close to the top of the table.

Phenolic resin is strong, the sheets are flat, and it is easily drilled or sawn, so this makes a good relatively inexpensive material for a router base. I checked my phenolic piece, it is 12 x 12 x 3/8in. Lot of area to decide how to cut out a plate.

The more expensive router plates are aluminium, typically 3/8in thick.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Ahh... thanks for the explanation!!!


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Wood4Brains said:


> John:
> 
> I think I would like to build a router table. How hard would it be to FIND a mounting plate for my router? Are they all standard sizes? Or are they all different sizes?


Chances are you would need to drill a mounting plate to match your router. Not a big deal, you just remove the plastic sub-base plate from your router and use it as a template to drill the mounting holes. Thinking about it though, you wouldn't even need to purchase a plate. I doubt that router weighs much more than about 6#. A plastic cutting board from Goodwill or somewhere would work fine. If you can find one about 3/8" thick, 8 to 10" x 10 to 12" should support that router easily. About a 1½ hole in the center should be large enough, you wouldn't be using bits any larger than that probably. :smile:


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks so much, John!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Wood4Brains said:


> Hi there, Everyone:
> 
> There is an old craftsman 1 horsepower stationary router that accepts 1/4 inch bits for around $20 in my neighborhood. It's been listed for a while, so maybe he will take $10? Who knows... but it doesn't come with any bits at all.
> 
> ...



I probably have that same router. Or at least it's kissin cousin. I have had mine for over 35 years. As long as you do not ask it to spin a bit that is too big for the hp it will do a fine job. That is the only router that I had for 9ver 30 years. Just recently bought a bigger//more powerful model.

George


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks for the note, GeorgeC:



> As long as you do not ask it to spin a bit that is too big for the hp it will do a fine job.


Can I ask how big a bit is too big?

Thanks in advance.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

So just to follow up with everyone...

the person who said he had a 1-3/4 horsepower variable speed router actually just had a 1 HP single speed router after all... so I bought the one from the guy who had his listed for $20.

It is a black and decker 25K RPM model, and it is kind of small and light. Not nearly as loud as I thought it would be (much quieter than my circular saw).


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## jlmarta (Jul 29, 2012)

Another thing that can be done with a router is planing the thickness of small pieces or (in a pinch) planing a flat surface on an irregular piece of wood so you have a starting point to true up a piece to run through a bandsaw. I just built an adjustable jig out of pegboard to hold flat pieces I wish to 'thin down' a bit. With a sliding tray to mount the router on and evenly spaced guides grooved for the tray I can use a flat bottomed bit to make multiple passes over the piece to be planed. I never felt I could justify the expense of a bench planer. I've had good success with this jig.


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

use it for a dedicated 1/8 inch round over bit. 

OR

maybe an anchor for a small boat or canoe


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

*@ jlmarta*

Thanks for the explanation.

I don't suppose you could post a photo of your setup so we can see it in action, could you?

Having a bit of a time visualizing it, and it sounds intriguing.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Wood4Brains said:


> So just to follow up with everyone...
> 
> the person who said he had a 1-3/4 horsepower variable speed router actually just had a 1 HP single speed router after all... so I bought the one from the guy who had his listed for $20.
> 
> It is a black and decker 25K RPM model, and it is kind of small and light. Not nearly as loud as I thought it would be (much quieter than my circular saw).


Congratulations. Lets see a picture of it. :yes:









 







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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

If you make your own plate, or bolt it to a cutting board or something else, you can use your router to rout a recess for the router to mount to, if the cutting board is too thick.


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## jlmarta (Jul 29, 2012)

Wood4Brains said:


> *@ jlmarta*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation.
> 
> ...


I'll make that my project for the day - right after my coffee and stogie on the patio. It's too darned hot here, recently, to do much work in the shop. On the plus side, though, it's only supposed to hit 101 degrees today.

Keep an eye out for photos.....


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

*@ Pirate*



> If you make your own plate, or bolt it to a cutting board or something else, you can use your router to rout a recess for the router to mount to, if the cutting board is too thick.


Thanks for the tip! :smile:


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

> Keep an eye out for photos.....


Thanks, looking forward to them.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Wood4Brains said:


> Thanks, looking forward to them.


Speaking of pictures...are we going to see pictures of your router purchase?









 







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## jlmarta (Jul 29, 2012)

Okay, as promised, here are some shots of the router jig I made for small thickness planing needs:










This is an overall shot of the base of the jig. 

Another view. The rail on the right is fixed and supports a piece of 1/4" masonite as a guide for the sled.











the center rail is adjustable by locating the carriage bolts in the appropriate pegboard holes. The piece on the right edge of the center rail is adjustable with the knobs visible and clamps the workpiece in place.










A close-up of the clamping knobs and the moveable clamping piece.










I laid a piece of scrap wood where a workpiece would be.










Here's the sled with the router mounted. In use, the center rail would be moved closer to the workpiece (obviously...Duh!)










A close-up of the router sled showing the slots that guide the sled










A bottom view of the router sled.










A close-up of the slots on the bottom of the router sled.

This has worked well for me on a number of projects. I know it's not as good as a bench-mounted thickness planer but with the kind of things I do, it serves my needs quite well.

And, as I said earlier, there are a number of other ways to use a router for planing irregular surfaces but a differently configured jig would be necessary. Hope this is helpful....


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I like it :thumbsup: I use a Woodhaven planning sled I got for my birthday a couple of years ago but so much stuff has to be done cross grain. I guess it doesn't make much difference as a quick sanding is all it needs.


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## jlmarta (Jul 29, 2012)

jschaben said:


> I like it :thumbsup: I use a Woodhaven planning sled I got for my birthday a couple of years ago but so much stuff has to be done cross grain. I guess it doesn't make much difference as a quick sanding is all it needs.
> Woodhaven Planing Sleds - YouTube


That's pretty slick. Like you say, though, it's evidently intended for cross-grain use. I'm not sure if I care for that feature. I can handle stuff up to about 40 - 42 inches and do it with the grain. On the other hand, I like the aluminum rails and manufactured elements of the WoodHaven unit. Guess I'm just wishy-washy like Charlie Brown.... LOL


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Wood4Brains said:


> the person who said he had a 1-3/4 horsepower variable speed router actually just had a 1 HP single speed router after all... so I bought the one from the guy who had his listed for $20.
> 
> It is a black and decker 25K RPM model, and it is kind of small and light. Not nearly as loud as I thought it would be (much quieter than my circular saw).





cabinetman said:


> ...are we going to see pictures of your router purchase?


You know the rules...NO PICS...DIDN'T HAPPEN.









 







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​


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Wood4Brains said:


> the person who said he had a 1-3/4 horsepower variable speed router actually just had a 1 HP single speed router after all... so I bought the one from the guy who had his listed for $20.
> 
> It is a black and decker 25K RPM model, and it is kind of small and light. Not nearly as loud as I thought it would be (much quieter than my circular saw).





cabinetman said:


> ...are we going to see pictures of your router purchase?




Thought you might have missed the request.









 







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## jlmarta (Jul 29, 2012)

Here's another take on the notion of planing or flattening with a router:






It's a little lengthy - 22+ minutes - but pretty well done, I think.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Mark, I'd like to see what ya landed for $20 too! Where the pics? :smile:


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Sorry guys, been too busy messing up my mortise joints and trying to sanitize my $20 table saw* to take a shot of the router.

But believe me; it DOES exist. Look for the pictures after noon East Coast Time.

(And many thanks to the kind soul on this forum who sent me some router bits to get me started - along with many thanks to the other kind soul who sent me a block plane!!!)

One other thing, since I am brand new to woodworking: I am not sure exactly which way is up and which was is down with this thing. Is the top of the router the side that says "NetGear" on it??? 


















:jester:

*Regarding Table Saw "Upgrades": Turns out, Horse urine is a LOT HARDER to clean up than I had anticipated. I thought that much of the hay that had managed to find its way under the table and into the motor would have absorbed the majority of the matter, but apparently not. Nor has the stench of "Stallion Juice" been canceled out by the smell of the cigarette butts that were wedged into the combination miter slot / ashtray (now _THAT_ was a stroke of genius).

Ahhh... just thinking about the smell makes me want to reach for a can of Oly...


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Ok, here are the photos. sorry they ain't so clear.










I gotta ask... can I use this thing to make coffee, too? It kind of looks like it belongs in a kitchen more than in a workshop... :huh:

The person who sold it to me was kind enough to ziptie the wrench to the handle so it wouldn't get lost as easily... maybe he was out of duct tape? 

and here is a little bit of a closeup. Sorry again for the graininess and the bad lighting:










thanks again everyone.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Wood4Brains said:


> Ok, here are the photos. sorry they ain't so clear.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The plate on it looks like it says...8.5 AMPs. Can't see it too well. Not such a bad deal for $20.










 







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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

@ cabinetman:



> The plate on it looks like it says...8.5 AMPs. Can't see it too well. Not such a bad deal for $20.


Yup, 8.5 amps, 1 HP, and it looks like it has holes to mount some sort of an edge guide to it... just it didn't include one. Darn!


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