# craftsman 22114 table saw



## clarionflyer

There was some interest about this saw on another thread. And someone requested a review so here goes…

Yes, it’s a Craftsman. No, it’s not a boat anchor (it is heavy though). I’ve had this saw for 2 years now and I’ve been very impressed. For those on the fence about making the plunge away from that portable, but are afraid of the price… check out this saw. I’ve often seen it on sale for a little over $400 (got mine for a lot less) and once you make that first cut you’ll wonder how you got by without a non-portable. Set-up is fairly straight forward, but take the time to adjust it true (obviously). I got mine adjusted right on the first day (2 hours adjustment), and haven’t had to change anything since. Let’s see… flat table (read complaints about this though), super smooth and quiet motor, very sturdy (even large sheets of ply), adjustment wheels spin smooth, extended miter with stop, surprisingly good stock blade, dust collection (heard it’s good… I don’t have mine hooked up yet)… pretty much all the goodies. I intended on replacing the fence with a Beisy but after using the original, I really couldn’t see why. It has stayed completely true for 2 years, slides smooth, comes with it’s own stock block, measuring gauge is right on, and has slots all over it for attachments. For feather boards, sacrificial fence, etc… I use T-bolts… slide’em on and tighten (no more clamps). It’s so heavy and sturdy I attached an outfeed table right to the saw with 2 little legs on the back. I plan on doing a better job once I have some time, but for now it works great (looks a little crazy though… I’ll try to send some pictures… not too good with that).

Ok… bad things. It’s a Craftsman and has that name hanging on the front. The plastic door latch on the side didn’t work (made my own). As is discussed in the thread this started from… after the saw is turned off… about 3 seconds from a complete stop, on spool down… it starts ticking. My first thought was #$%$, bearings are bad. But after 2 years of running the saw, I don’t think it’s the bearings, could be a brake. Still not sure, but it runs smooth as can be while on… stumped. It took me a year to run 220v out to the garage. Should’ve done that a long time ago. The 110v setup on my old farmhouse wires would dim the lights in Moscow. It has a pretty big motor for 110v. I ran 220v straight from the box… hoorah, runs like a sewing machine.
Initially, rust on the table was a problem, more so than my other tools (Ohio garage… swing temps). I tried Mother’s, Boeing, and just about everything else. Then I came upon “Tri-Flow”. I think it has silicon and a million other things, but it seems fine (being a *hobby* woodworker). I haven’t noticed any ill affects on my finish (finished about 4 big projects using it). 

Now I’m rambling. Basically it’s been an amazingly good saw for me. I just happened to walk by it and saw it on sale for $400. Called the wife to get permission (sweating) and she reminded me that we had $200 in gift cards. Sold American for $200. Buy of a lifetime.


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## clarionflyer

*Resaw*

Here's a couple pics of the fence. I threw my sacrificial fence in there too (notice the T bolts and slots... they work great).


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## knotscott

Nice review and a really slick setup you've got there CF! :thumbsup: Alot of folks really like those Orion made hybrids, and they seem to have very few complaints. You probably know this, but Orion is owned by Steel City and they make the SC hybrids too....pretty much the same guts as your saw. 

Ever consider sliding those rails to the right a tad for more rip capacity on that side? You're not very likely to ever need rip capacity on the left for a left tilt saw....


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## clarionflyer

Oooh. Never thought o' that. Thanks.


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## dbhost

Good write up! Thanks.


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## Gerry KIERNAN

Good review. 
I wish I could find a saw like that for $400.

Gerry


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## user4178

Tri-Flow has Teflon in it, I don't think silicone. Works really good on guns. I think most manufactures recommend a paste wax like Johnsons hardwood floor wax. I've been useing the Minwax version of it and have been happy with it.


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## clarionflyer

To be honest, right after I used Mother's wax, we had a crazy temperature day in Ohio. It changed temp from about 30 to 75 by 11 am.. When I walked in the shop, it looked like somebody let a garden hose loose in there. Probably too much to ask from any product.
Out of frustration I grabbed the Tri-Flow and cleaned it up with that. It did a great job and I thought, what the heck, I'll leave it on.
I can't imagine anything protecting as good but, once again, to be honest I sand my projects thoroughly by hand before the finish. 
But I'll give the Johnson's a try.

Oh and someone asked. My saw had been sold... the guy started sorting the parts and realized he had the wrong saw delivered. After sending the saw back to Sears, they couldn't sell it as new (even if was never put together), so they put it out as "used"... $400. But I have seen this saw in the Craftsman club for around $450. I'd pay that any day for this saw.
Thanks again for the info guys.


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## top

nice saw i have a craftsman model no. 315.228510 got it in 1999 and love nice large table has nice rip fence stay true slide smooth have a pic of it in my ab top shop check it out


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## blamuk

Hi, how much should one pay for a seemingly good condition 22114 in 2022? Should I jump on it @ $175?

I have a dewalt jobsite saw, about as good as it gets for a jobsite saw. I do like the rack and pinion fence on it. Its as square as my framing square. The table is flat, to my 4' box level, if small. Would the 22114 fence be a large upgrade? 

Before my dewalt I had an old craftsman jobsite saw, with a table thats not flat and a fence thats never square. So the dewalt was a HUGE upgrade. What would the 22114 get me?

I do plan on "getting to" a more permanent shop setup. I can build tables for the dewalt, make it more stable, etc. But I can never make the fence better. Thats why if I'm to get a stationary saw its all about the fence for me. Power wise I have not needed more - I mostly build speakers subwoofers and kitchen cabinets etc. 90% cutting birch ply and MDF. I can't afford to cut real hard wood anyway  So again, power and stability, capacity, I can have more but what I have is fine. what holds me back is that the 22114's fence doesn't sound that great, people upgrade it anyway, so I'm not really buying for the fence either? I would not plan on spending another $400 on a Biesemeyer fence for it. I might as well keep looking for a saw with a better fence to start with?
I'll post some pics


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## blamuk




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## GeorgeC

clarionflyer said:


> *Resaw*
> 
> Here's a couple pics of the fence. I threw my sacrificial fence in there too (notice the T bolts and slots... they work great).


That fence looks a lot like my X-2424 Craftswoman fence that I added to my saw. An excellent fence. I agree on the built in track that makes it easy to add things like your sacrificial fence.

George


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## Woodworking Wolf

I am not familiar with that model saw, hopefully others are. Around here, it's tough to find a table saw of almost any kind for $175. @GeorgeC likes the fence. I have a similar fence, the difference probably being mine was purchased separately and added to a Craftsman saw from the 70s. I love it. At the risk of offending those who don't like it, or any fence that locks at the front and rear of the saw, I would say they haven't figured out the trick to using this kind of fence. I'll be the first to admit I had issues with it at first, but once I learned how to use it properly, I have no problems with it. What took me some time to learn might be explained in the owners manual, but I never looked at that. If you would like to know more, start a private conversation with me. Again, no offense to those who dislike these fences, I just don't want to start arguments about it.


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## woodnthings

blamuk said:


> Hi, how much should one pay for a seemingly good condition 22114 in 2022? Should I jump on it @ $175?
> 
> I have a dewalt jobsite saw, about as good as it gets for a jobsite saw. I do like the rack and pinion fence on it. Its as square as my framing square. The table is flat, to my 4' box level, if small. Would the 22114 fence be a large upgrade?
> 
> Before my dewalt I had an old craftsman jobsite saw, with a table thats not flat and a fence thats never square. So the dewalt was a HUGE upgrade. What would the 22114 get me?
> 
> I do plan on "getting to" a more permanent shop setup. I can build tables for the dewalt, make it more stable, etc. But I can never make the fence better. Thats why if I'm to get a stationary saw its all about the fence for me. Power wise I have not needed more - I mostly build speakers subwoofers and kitchen cabinets etc. 90% cutting birch ply and MDF. I can't afford to cut real hard wood anyway  So again, power and stability, capacity, I can have more but what I have is fine. what holds me back is that the 22114's fence doesn't sound that great, people upgrade it anyway, so I'm not really buying for the fence either? I would not plan on spending another $400 on a Biesemeyer fence for it. I might as well keep looking for a saw with a better fence to start with?
> I'll post some pics



I have the "big brother" to that saw, 22124 which has the floor length cabinet. I love that saw and the Biesemeyer fence it came with, a upgrade over the 22114.
The controls work really smooth and motor has sufficient power for all but 3" rips. Mine listed for $1200 at the time it was new, so that saw at $175.00 seems like a decent deal.


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