# To fill, or not to fill; that is the question....



## apex_predetor (Sep 22, 2010)

I am quite sure I want to fill my mantel before staining, but I can't seem to find a filler at the Lowes I was just at.

They had something called a "Sanding Sealer". IS that the same thing?

Just as a reference, I would sand down the wood with 220-320 paper before I fill, or would I sand only after the fill?

Thanks again for the info...


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

Grain Filling, is that what you are talking about? Not the same as sanding sealer, and yeah, I wouldn't expect a BORG to have such a thing. If you have a Woodcraft or Rockler in your area, you can pick it up there, but otherwise you might have to order someplace online. Sherwin Williams may carry such a thing

I've never done grain fill, so I've not researched the proper procedures. Someone else here I'm sure will be more familiar

Is the mantel Oak? Grain filling is typically done on more open grain woods like Oak, so the finish comes out more smooth.


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## apex_predetor (Sep 22, 2010)

Yeah, best I can tell; it is oak.

Can anybody suggest an online source for wood filler that I could buy from?

I am in upstate NY (Syracuse Area). Any experience with finding fillers at a local retail store?

Thanks


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## glh17 (Jul 7, 2010)

Like wood4fun, I've read about wood filling and seen a demo, but have not actually done it. Here is a wood filler and how-to from Rockler. You might also check homestead finishing. 

http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?mode=entry&entry=7F490E9A-1372-6771-F60F68E2C3DB5112

http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/Pastewoodglazes.htm

Good Luck,
Gary


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

It has been 20+ years since I have used grain filler. I'll see if I can engage the memory banks. Grain filling open grained wood can give you a glass-smooth finish. Couple this with rubbing your finish out with rottenstone or pumice and you can achieve amazing results.

As far as the grain filler is concerned, I used a small window squeegie to work the filler into the grain. As I remember, I was going to stain the piece so I mixed the stain with the grain filler and worked it into the grain. Back in the day you could get grain filler in any hardware store. Now you will find it online or at a paint store.


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## snakedoctor (Sep 24, 2010)

*wood grain filler*

I work alot with Red Oak. I use Wood Grain Filler by Benwood Interior Wood Finishes (Benjamin Moore & Co.). I get it from my local paint supplier. You have to follow the directio9ns & it's alot of work but the finish is really nice. Hope this helps.

Snake:smile:


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## apex_predetor (Sep 22, 2010)

Thanks again guys..

Getting that Benjamin Moore filler.


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

You might also check out Woodcraft for Behlen Pore-o-Pac. I've used this to achieve a glassy smooth finish on red oak. It's $24/qt. Save some money and don't by the Reducer that is used to thin it, just use mineral spirits. The filler itself is a dull gray color. Buy some Burnt Umber Japan Color to make it brown. Experiment on some scrap wood to get the right shade you'll need.

The filler is very heavy and hard to work right out of the can. Add a bit of mineral spirits to thin it to the consistency of heavy cream. Spread it on with a chip brush, wait 5 to 10 minutes until it hazes up and starts to dry. Next scrape the filler off with a plastic 4" putty knife, then rub any remainder off with a piece of burlap. Allow to dry thoroughly (overnight) then lightly sand with a fine abrasive pad.

You can get burlap at any fabric store. You can get Japan Colors here. Or Google "Japan Colors" for a variety of sources.

Good luck!

Kevin H.


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## The Engineer (Mar 16, 2010)

I just posted this comment on the earlier post:

"My dad finished hardwood floors as an occupation from 1934 to 1984. He always made his own filler from the fine dust from final sanding steps mixed with schellac and denatured alcohol. If the floors were going to be stained he would tint the filler as well. The filler was then rubbed onto the whole surface using burlap sacks. after drying the final sanding was done with very fine paper. His floors were beautiful.

I know you have stripped this mantle, and therefore have no sanding dust from this mantle, but if you do have any oak to sand you could use that dust. Try it on a test piece and see what you think. I think you will be pleased."


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## apex_predetor (Sep 22, 2010)

Thanks guys.

I have read contradicting methods to remove the filler. Some say to remove with grain, other say to remove against gran as not to pull undry filler out?

Any experience with either method?

Thanks again. I love this forum. I can't wait to build a workshop/pole barn so I can have a real hobby.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

apex_predetor said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> I have read contradicting methods to remove the filler. Some say to remove with grain, other say to remove against gran as not to pull undry filler out?
> 
> Any experience with either method?



The usual method suggests both cross grain and with the grain application.

The grain filler is first applied to the grain and spread cross grain to fill the pores. Then the filler is drawn with the grain. The can you buy will have complete instructions for their own product.












 





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