# Finishing raw White Oak - question re: color/sanding



## pmandra1 (Oct 31, 2010)

I wanted to ask a question regarding the raw wood tabletop project I am currently working on. I have attached some photos – the wood is white oak. 
It might be difficult to see, but there are some inconsistencies in the color. (I have circled the areas in question). In some areas, there is a brown ‘patching’ effect occurring, though the areas directly adjacent to it are more white, which we would prefer. Is this just the natural coloring of the wood, or is there a way I can make it more consistent (i.e., white). 
Also, please note in one photo the dark marks I have circled, that seem to be in the grain despite my attempt to sand them out. Any thoughts on what these marks are and the best way to get them out, if it’s possible to do so? (sandpaper grit, etc.)


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

There is nothing consistent about a piece of wood, that is what makes it so beautiful. Wood grain is wood grain, rejoice in it and finsh it as is.


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## TGRANT (Jan 25, 2011)

I’ve seen plenty of those brownish patches on the white oak I’ve used. I’ve always assumed that it was normal variation. As mentioned, wood is a variable material and the variations are part of the game. If it really bothers you, you might try bleaching with oxalic acid, but do it on scrap first. It might blend n with stain/topcoats as well. I’ve used white oak on and off for years and the brown never seemed to get in the way.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I too have used white for a long time. These stains are in the wood and wont really come out. Most finishes have a slight ambering to them and that will help mask it. So just finish it and all will be fine. 
If these areas really bother you, you will have to select and use planks that dont have these defects. If you over-buy by about 25% you have a better chance of avoiding these spots.


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## swannyww (Apr 18, 2011)

The marks are from minerals and they come from the soil the trees are grown in. Red oak will have marks also, but the northern grown trees seem to be better in color and few marks.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Yesterday I was finishing a small piece of white oak. The surface was "Yellowed" as you described. Areas that had been machined (router) showed white. When I sanded these yellow areas, the color became even and as one would expect for white oak. I attributed the color change to air and sun light. DUNNO


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

pmandra1 said:


> I wanted to ask a question regarding the raw wood tabletop project I am currently working on. I have attached some photos – the wood is white oak.
> It might be difficult to see, but there are some inconsistencies in the color. (I have circled the areas in question). In some areas, there is a brown ‘patching’ effect occurring, though the areas directly adjacent to it are more white, which we would prefer. Is this just the natural coloring of the wood, or is there a way I can make it more consistent (i.e., white).
> Also, please note in one photo the dark marks I have circled, that seem to be in the grain despite my attempt to sand them out. Any thoughts on what these marks are and the best way to get them out, if it’s possible to do so? (sandpaper grit, etc.)


what you have is blotching. the soft wood absorb's stain more than the hard wood or thread's . You need to use a blotch control and than all of the stain would have been even. Watch this video with charles neil about wood blotching. I have his blotch control and it work's very well. Stain goes on even on all wood's here is the link http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=InTheWorkshop#p/u/24/IfCYMdrP8rM


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## Woodshingle (Nov 10, 2010)

*It's not blotching!*

White oak won't blotch. It's the best wood to stain and work with as it colors beautifully (all oak). I use all QSWO on my projects.

What I see is some sap wood which is lighter than the surrounding late wood. I also see planer marks and knots.

I would use an analine die to blend all the wood shades together after final sanding. If water based, use distilled to avoid iron stains.

Also, pre-raise the grain before dying. After you dye, scuff sand with 320 and then layer on your oil stain or whatever.

The dye will blend it all and it will look uniform.


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