# Porter-Cable 10in Jobsite Saw review



## CNYCarl

This is a review of the Porter-Cable model PCB220TS 10 inch Jobsite Saw.
I purchased this saw for approximately $300 at Lowe’s and have owned it for three months- well out of the honeymoon period.
Why a contractor saw? My budget is limited and this saw was priced right near the maximum I could justify. A used full size saw wasn’t a real option because my shop space is small. For me, a saw that folds up and tucks in the corner is a real plus.
My old table saw was a Craftsman built in 1954 that lacked a fence, had a small table, and worn miter slots. I am used to working with the basics (and sometimes less!) so not having some of the features of full-size saw isn’t an issue.
After a lot of comparing, I bought the made-in-Taiwan Porter-Cable. I have not been disappointed. 

As an aside: I have a small home metalworking shop and did all the set up measurements and adjustments with precision measuring instruments , no rulers allowed. I am that guy.

Initial set up:
Setting up the tool is straightforward with the usual ‘some assembly required’.

The blade elevation and angle controls use acme-threaded screw jacks: a feature not found on other saws in this class, or on some of the much higher priced jobs. Adjusting the angle control stops is accomplished with setscrew collars on the screw jack- a very robust and precise method. I used a machinist square to check the blade perpendicularity and brought it to dead square (it was very close from the factory) and then set the 45 degree stop (which was off a bit). 

I mounted up a new Freud Diablo 80 tooth blade and checked blade parallelism to the miter slots using a digital caliper. The factory got it right, with no adjustment needed. The fence was spot-on from the factory, too. The miter gauge needed some tweaking. Every fastener was checked for tightness, with no loose ones being found. With the exception of the miter gauge, the factory settings were close enough out-of-the-box for framing or basic carpentry work.
I waxed the table with non-silicone paste wax to minimize the black marks that show up on the work. I may apply a high-tech low friction coating at some point.

Set up for work:
The saw goes from ‘stored’ to ‘working’ in about three minutes: pop a latch, pull up and the stands unfolds and locks. All of the above table parts store on the left side of the tool. The riving knife, antikickback claws, and safety guard install without tools or drama. Folding down is just as easy. The right side of the saw has a storage area for a blade and the wrenches to replace it.

Using the saw:
After running the motor for a few minutes to set the brushes, I hooked the shop vac/Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy to the rear outlet port and ran off a bunch of crosscuts off 2X4 pine and then ripped about 50 feet of pine. I rechecked all the adjustments and found nothing had drifted.
The saw works just like it should with no issues. For me, that is high praise.

Pros:
Separate blade elevation and angle controls using screw jacks (no clamp-and-pray angle adjustment).
Easy to set up and fold down for storage.
Soft-start motor.
Outfeed support.

Cons:
The table insert is a little flimsy- all thin ripping should be done on the left side of the blade.
The table insert has a little warning label on it that is thick enough to catch the work and stop it. I peeled it off.
The stand does not sit quite level. Square, yes. Level, no. It’s annoying, but doesn’t affect how the saw works.
It comes from the factory with a POS blade. Don’t they all? 
The aluminum table can leave black smudges on the work. 
Dust control is adequate, but not spectacular. Don’t even think about running this saw without a vacuum or dust collector.


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## srestrepo

just picked upthis saw on account of this review. i'd like to say thanks but i'm not sure you're even still active. in either case, ditto to everythign you said. the saw is great.


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## Drstehn

*10" porter cable TS*

I bought this saw about 6 months ago. Very first major woodworking purchase. Love the saw except 1 minor/major flaw. The fence is complete junk. There is about an 1/8" play in the fence from front to back. I have a He!! of a time getting it set up to make a strait cut. The back of the fence either is closer to the blade than the front causing to work piece to jam, or the fence is farther away ending in an uneven cut. Other than this one issue I love the saw.


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## srestrepo

hey drstehn, mine came a smidge off like that too. in the instruction manual, it says to loosen the tension on the clamp for the fence, then it says to square the rip fence to the miter slots, just loosen the tension on those two bolt heads on top of the rip fence and then you square the rip fence to miterslots and then tighten those two bolts and that shoudl help you square the fence whenever you clamp down. i'm very careful to make sure its square before i cut anyway but your mileage may vary sir. hope that helps. enjoy your day!


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## Drstehn

*PC table saw*

Much Abliged. I'll give that a try.


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## cavediver4444

This is the worst table saw I have ever bought, and respectfully disagree with the previous responses. I bought this saw as a back up/secondary saw for on site rips, usually when we need to make a few quick rips instead of breaking out our larger contractor saw. Not only is the fence completely inaccurate and no where near square to the blade, but within 6 months the entire piece of equipment is falling apart. The gear that raises and lowers the blade has sheared off, the table will not lock when unfolding unless you turn the table upside down, and various bushings and bolts have either broken off or rattled loose. I suggest upgrading if you plan on using a table saw for regular use


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## Artmetal

Have you had any issues with the blade elevation jack plastic gears stripping? My first stripped out first time used. Returned product. Second stripped out after 1 week usage. Any corrosion or dirt on threads jams adjuster and strips gear teeth very easily. Replacing parts after dissembling entire unit. Several hours work. Metal gears would be much better. Casting gears using "lost wax" casting method into brass. Burning out plastic and replacing with brass.


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