# Baby bed build thread



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Hello, 
I started building this crib about 2 weeks ago and have been meaning ti start this thread. Luckily i have been taking pictures throughout. 

The wood i am using is dark Walnut. Its going to be a sled style crib.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Here are some pictures


----------



## nmacdonald (Jan 13, 2012)

Looking good


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)




----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

The tenons on the slats.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

This is the tenon for the bottom rail.. 









Here is a dry fit of the bottom rails and the legs. Wife wanted to see the size.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

After thia build i am dying for a mortise machine. Tired of chiselling round holes square.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Here is a picture of the design i am copying....


----------



## BigBull (Feb 10, 2010)

HuskerGBR said:


> After thia build i am dying for a mortise machine. Tired of chiselling round holes square.


That is exactly what I said right before I went and bought my machine. The bed is looking great. I can't wait to see it finished. Keep posting pictures I enjoy looking an them.

Randy


----------



## preacherman (Nov 29, 2011)

Looks good so far.:thumbsup:
Let me caution you:Are you using those plans? I just recently finished a crib with those exact plans from plans design. I hope you did not get those plans from there. If you follow the measurements from the plans you will have serious trouble a little later on in the build see these two threads concerning recent crib builds
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/baby-crib-build-34420/
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/convertable-crib-plans-31926/

We both bought plans from that company and there are flawed.
I realized early on in my build that measurements were off and adjusted accordingly. Groovy had to do some serious modifications to his after nearly completly finishing construction.


----------



## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Looking forward to the rest of the build. Looks great so far.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

This is looking good. What's size is this bed?


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Sitting at surgery with my daughter and her 6 wk old, she says, "he can make one for me"

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looking great man!


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

DaveTTC said:


> Sitting at surgery with my daughter and her 6 wk old, she says, "he can make one for me"
> 
> Dave The Turning Cowboy


 At surgery? Everything all right? Beautiful grandbaby!!


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

rayking49 said:


> At surgery? Everything all right? Beautiful grandbaby!!


Yeah just getting her shots

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

First thing I did this morning was head to the shop and take some measurements. The Mattress we bought is 51.625 X 27.25.. The plan is set up for a mattress that is 52 X 28. So looks like I am 3/8 too long and 3/4 to wide. So what to do?? 

Question : is 3/8 or 3/4 to large a gap between the mattress and the side wall?

Safety is #1..

Thanks preacherman for the heads up. What a fool I am for following plans with blinders on.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

After doing some research online. I think my measurements are good and safe. Looks like a normal crib are to my exact specs.


----------



## preacherman (Nov 29, 2011)

If you are only 3/8 and 3/4 over the size of the mattress you should be fine. If you use a bumper around the mattress it will fill that space in easily. One thing I found said that you should only have about two finger widths between the mattress and the crib frame. So I think you are just fine. I just wanted to give you a heads up so you did not end up with designer firewood.
Keep the pics coming can't wait to see it finished.
P. S. What part of eastern tenn do you live in? I live about an hour west of Knoxville


----------



## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Your project looks great! 


If you want to double check any design specs see the US Consumer Protection center's crib info center. Their specs are based on actual injury reports for baby/toddler cribs, playpens, cradles et cetera


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

+1 on the bumper. That will work just fine.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Okay guys and gals have a little issue and wanted some advise.. the plan calla for 1 1/2 inch dowel that will be somewhere around 56" long. First off cant find a place that sales walnut dowels that long and that thick. And second there just darn $$$. 

So this is my plan. I have glued up some walnut stock 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". I plan on ripping it on the table saw at 45° which will make me an octagon. Then I was going to take the belt Sander to it. Any other ideas .... please help.


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

If the objective is to make your own dowel my first choice would be a lathe. 

Second use a router with a round over bit, preferably on a router table. Cut your stock square and a few inches longer than you need. Drop your work into the cutter an inch from the end and run till an inch from the other end. Repeat 3 more times, rotating it 1/4 turn each time. Teaching the square at each end will help guide the work so you end up as close to round as possible, then you trim the ends and have your own custom dowel. 

My daughter still says she wants one for her lol

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Thanks for suggestions Dave. I have actually thought about both of those.

The lathe i have can only turn 36inch or so. The routers option thought about that as well and i dont have a large enough round over bit. And the price of a 1 1/2 " roundover is $$$$. 

Think i should turn 2 pieces on the lathe and the connect the two?

And as slow as i work your daughter's child will be a teenager before i am done. Lol


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

HuskerGBR said:


> Thanks for suggestions Dave. I have actually thought about both of those.
> 
> The lathe i have can only turn 36inch or so. The routers option thought about that as well and i dont have a large enough round over bit. And the price of a 1 1/2 " roundover is $$$$.
> 
> ...


You would only need 3/4 round over bit if you want a diameter of 1 1/2, that should not cost too much. I'll have to look at your pic again to see where you want to use this, I was assuming for the vertical rails to keep baby in.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Ok checked your pic again. Did not think it had round vertical rails, is this for the front top rail, part of what looks like a rectangular top rail.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

That is exactly how I make dowels. 3/4 bit shouldn't be very expensive.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Okay so i went to lowes and home depot to buy a 3/4 inch bit but larges one they had was 1/2 so ordered one offline. 


Okay back to the measurements. 

I measured again the width gap is 2 1/8 length gap is 1 1/8. Yes measure twice cut once. Is 2 1/8 inch gap to big? I was told that 2 inch gap (1 inch either side) is okay after bumpers and sheets.


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

I wouldn't loose any sleep over an 1/8 th in this instance.

I don't think your baby will either 

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I think it'll be fine, too.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Thanks for the input.


----------



## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

Husker,

Where are you located in TN? I live in the Carthage / Gordonsville area about an hour east of Nashville. If I can be of any assistance let me know. I have a couple baby beds under my belt.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Wema826,

Thanks for the offer. I live in Cleveland, tn which is about 30 mins north of Chattanooga. 

I think i have it under control just concerned about the spacing.. safety..


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Picture of one of the sides all laid out. The plans i am using are garbage. Measurements are off and some just straight up contradict each other. 

Throwing them in the trash. And working with what i got finished already.


----------



## preacherman (Nov 29, 2011)

Yep those plans aren't worth the paper they are printed on. But the crib is looking good. Keep those pics coming.


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

It's looking good.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

here are some of the major requirements for cribs. 

inside dimensions:

28" +/- 5/8" 
52 3/8" +/- 5/8"

rail spacing max distance is either 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" i can not remember the exact measurement. (i would look this one up)!

height regulations:

minimum distance from top of mattress in the highest position to the lowest spot of the top of the top rail is 9".

minimum distance from the top of the mattress in the lowest position to the lowest spot of the top of the top rail is 26".

any ledge on the inside can be used as a toe hold or finger grab point. so any intrusions on the inside above the mattress and below the top of the top rail must be shorter then 3/8".

these are the ones I can recall of the top of my head. 

Your crib is looking great by the way. Keep up the good work!


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Thanks .. look like my crib meets all of the above.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Did a quick Google search and max between spindles is 2 3/8"


----------



## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

I found the plans and "full sized" templates were off templates ran too small and plans measurments left too wide and too long when *assembled*. I do not think and did not rely on the bumper pads to fill any gaps between the mattres and crib frame. you can look at my thread in "plans" convertable crib plans


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Groovy,

Thanks for the heads up. I have already looked through your build thread.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Gluing up the one of the top rails. Dont have enough clamps to do both at the same time. 

This was a pain. Its slightly concaved and just really no easy way to glue it up.


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I've heard you can't have too many clamps. But you can for sure have not enough. You are in my boat. Looking great man.


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I have used the off cuts sometimes to make a square edge to clamp to. A little hot glue and there ya go.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Well here is the first top scrapped, and partially sanded.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Okay so fixed the length and width part so not to have such a large gap between the mattress and the frame. 

NOW ANOTHER PROBLEM. 

As you can see for the first pic i started to dry fit the foot board. And behold it doesn't fit together. The legs are to short or slats are to long.









You can see in this pic what i am talking about. 1 1/2 to long. 










Have 3 options. 
1. Cut slats by 1 1/2 and re tenon and be done. 

2. Make new front legs that are 1 1/2 inch to long. If i do this i will have to redo all the sides 

3. Fill in the mortises i already made in the legs and mortise an 1 1/2 lower.

Suggestions?


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

I like option one its the easiest. Just worried if o do that will it make the sides to low.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Well i read up on the code for the rail height is required to be at least 26 inchs from the mattress support to the lowest point on the railing. 

So if i do do option 1 which is shorten the slats by 1 1/2 inch i will still be 26 1/2 height. So option 1 it is


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

The headboard is the exact same way..


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Here is another picture to help better understand.


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I think option 1 also.


----------



## preacherman (Nov 29, 2011)

This is what I just happened to catch in my plans, the not so full sized patterns. The only reason I caught it was because I was altering the legs to a different look anyway and was obsessing over the measurements to make it right and the "full size" pattern did not add up. 

If it were me and I had the material available I would remake the legs. If the material is not available cutting the slats down (as long as they will still meet the safety requirements) would be the way to go. 

Sorry you are having such trouble but the crib will look very good once you have it finished.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

Finally got a few hours to get out in the shop ... sanded all the front pieces and ready for glue up.


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

She's looking good.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

One last dry fit before glue up.


----------



## HuskerGBR (Sep 18, 2012)

All mocked up and the mattress fits perfect.


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

That is going to be an awesome bed. It looks great!


----------



## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

It's a beauty.


----------



## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

Makes me want to build mine. Instead we shelled out $400 for one made out of poplar


----------



## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Glad you did the dry fit with the matress...


----------



## MagGeorge (Jul 5, 2012)

That is a gorgeous design!


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Can't wait to see it finished.


----------



## Skotty (Feb 28, 2013)

*Nice Job*

I too am building this crib. I have taken a different approach to the sliegh rail and decided to go ahead with the 1.5" maple dowel. The dowel assembly is 60" long, with guide boards attached via wood screws on the ends. The plans call for the dowel to be 53 3/8" so that leaves some scrap on each end. Ive also thought about putting screws in the whole length to provide support but then ill have holes to fill and not sure how the stain will be effected. Since I only need to make a 3/4" cut I can screw into it 1/2" with out any worry. I figure using this idea and feather boards to hold it tight to the fence should give me an accurate cut.

I found the dowels at http://www.bairdbrothers.com/Maple-1-12-Dowel-Rod-P2316.aspx. They can make any size you need and the prices are reasonable.

I made a design using Google Sketchup on how to cut the dowel lengthwise. I haven't made the cut yet so if anyone has a better idea I'd love to hear about it. Thanks.:yes: 

Cant seem to import any piks.. but my sketchup drawing is attached


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Skotty said:


> I too am building this crib. I have taken a different approach to the sliegh rail and decided to go ahead with the 1.5" maple dowel. The dowel assembly is 60" long, with guide boards attached via wood screws on the ends. The plans call for the dowel to be 53 3/8" so that leaves some scrap on each end. Ive also thought about putting screws in the whole length to provide support but then ill have holes to fill and not sure how the stain will be effected. Since I only need to make a 3/4" cut I can screw into it 1/2" with out any worry. I figure using this idea and feather boards to hold it tight to the fence should give me an accurate cut.
> 
> I found the dowels at http://www.bairdbrothers.com/Maple-1-12-Dowel-Rod-P2316.aspx. They can make any size you need and the prices are reasonable.
> 
> ...


Love to see what you come up with. If you happen to start a new thread PM me or post here again to let me know. I think you have to have 25 posts to PM.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

The bed is looking great :thumbsup:


----------



## Skotty (Feb 28, 2013)

*The Dowel Cut*



DaveTTC said:


> Love to see what you come up with. If you happen to start a new thread PM me or post here again to let me know. I think you have to have 25 posts to PM.
> 
> Dave The Turning Cowboy


Hey Dave and All,

I have to agree with _preacherman_ about the plans from plansdesign, plansd.com. The measurements are way off. I wish I had found this thread before I commited to buy them. Now I will have to improvise and redesign somewhat.

So in my previous post I said I was going to cut the 1.5" dowel according to the plan design. I set up a JIG to hold the dowel and made my cuts. I made the 90 degree cut on the left of the fence and then moved the fence to the left of the blade and made the 86 degree cut. The result was a 94 degree angle for the headboard and footboard top rail assembly.... See pics..


----------

