# What is an accurate tape measure?



## Techsniffer (Feb 19, 2017)

I have 2 current tape measures a Kobolt and a Kameleon and both are pretty useless for accurate measurements, when I compare them to my Irwin framing square they are both about a 1/16th + off over about 18 inches and gets worse over longer distances

Does anyone know of an actual good quality tape measure that is accurate and hopefully has a self/auto lock on it? I would also prefer it didn't have a tip that moves around as I hate having to jack around holding the tip out to make sure I get that extra 1/16 of an inch in all my measurements.

Been looking around and I either find no information or too much information to sift through to find what I want.


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## Cowpokey (Feb 10, 2017)

Tape measures by default all* have moving end at the tip. The end moves out a 1/16" for "outside" measurements, and in a 1/16" for "inside" measurements. I normally use a tape measure for initial cuts longer than any of the solid straight edge or squares I use.

*to my knowledge


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## Cowpokey (Feb 10, 2017)

Here's a video from one of the youtube channels I follow, she explains the basics pretty well.


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## Techsniffer (Feb 19, 2017)

There are fixed tip tape measures, and I understand the purpose of the moving tip but I have no reason use for measuring "inside" items as I have other items I generally use for those tasks.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Cowpokey said:


> Tape measures by default all* have moving end at the tip. The end moves out a 1/16" for "outside" measurements, and in a 1/16" for "inside" measurements. I normally use a tape measure for initial cuts longer than any of the solid straight edge or squares I use.
> 
> *to my knowledge


As Cowpokey says they're supposed to "float"....that is allowing for the metal tip thickness....when you hang it on the outside it makes for the outside length....when you push it against the inside it floats in so you get the correct internal measurement.

As far as who makes the "correct" tape I pay extra for stanley.....and hope for the best... I've heard and seen a few "off" tape measures BUT normally it was the ends that got bent and would be off. IF your checking your tape against a framing square for the most accuracy always spot/ start at the 10" mark and check to 34" ...This will get away from IF the tip is correct position.

IF you've been measuring internal measurements with the tip extended/pulled out then your incorrect in the measurement and how incorrect in how to use the tape. Your not the first one AND there'll be several that's doing it now BUT won't admit it....

THIS is a learning forum also.....so there's no silly questions....the silly ones are those whom DIDN'T ask and then want us to give them easy solutions (sssshhhh.....there's not none after it's done messed up!!!) on there goof ups.

I hope this helps.....and you may find out the tapes were correct (or at least very close).


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Techsniffer said:


> There are fixed tip tape measures, and I understand the purpose of the moving tip but I have no reason use for measuring "inside" items as I have other items I generally use for those tasks.


Well extend it out and beat the brads down or super glue them.


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## Cowpokey (Feb 10, 2017)

I trust Stanley tape measures also. They are the "standard" all other tape measures are checked against.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*tape measures are not "accurate" ....*

Accuracy in your shop means repeatable. That is if you measure something one day using the tape measure of choice and remeasure it again a month later you get the same result. So the answer is ..... don't mix your tapes. :surprise2:
Use the same tape, what ever the brand, for your "standard" of measurement, for all your shop measuring duties and you'll be fine.

There is the issue of "inside" vs "outside" measurements, where the hook on the tape may or may not slide evenly throwing the measurement off just slightly. It's not enough to worry over as a rule. Speaking of rules, a steel ruler in 24" and 12" should be standard measuring equipment in your shop. Use them when ever possible rather than the tape measure which will be fine for much longer measuring duties, like construction projects. I also have a 6 ft aluminum ruler for cabinet work when it calls for it. :smile3:


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## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

My favorite tape is the Stanley FatMax. If I'm cutting a piece that will be cut again I hook the end and measure normal. If I'm making a precise measurement I start my measurement at the 1" mark and measure from there. By doing that you need to make sure to do the correct math and subtract 1 from your ending measurement. Ex. Start measurement at the 1" mark, and my board needs to be cut at 10" the I would make my mark at the 11" mark. 11" minus 1"= 10". If I'm measuring inside dimensions I use a wood rule as much as possible.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

I have always used a folding carpenters rule in the shop.

Tape measure for rough measurements, rule for the fine stuff.

Even though I have a dozen tapes, I use the same one when I am using one for a project.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I normally use a Stanley tape measure and don't have any issues with accuracy. Really I don't have very much issues with any brand of tape measure anymore. Even the free tapes you get at Harbor Freight probably 80% of them are accurate. I generally check them when I remove them from the package and mark them OK or not so I know if I can depend on them or not.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Regardless of the inaccuracy of a tape measure, if you measure with the tape and make the same measurement on the board to make the cut, the cut will correct and accurate. Think about it. 
Where we get off is when we measure with the tape, but then rely on another measurement tool like out table saw rule or our framing square for the measurement to make our cut. 
If your using a tape measure, stay with it and use it for all measurements.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Toolman50 said:


> Regardless of the inaccuracy of a tape measure, if you measure with the tape and make the same measurement on the board to make the cut, the cut will correct and accurate. Think about it.
> Where we get off is when we measure with the tape, but then rely on another measurement tool like out table saw rule or our framing square for the measurement to make our cut.
> If your using a tape measure, stay with it and use it for all measurements.


Not necessarily. The end of a tape slips back and forth for inside and outside measurements based on the thickness of the end of the tape. Some tapes are off there where you can make an inside measurement and then pull the tape over the end of a board to mark the cut and get a different size than you were expecting. This is where I find the inaccuracy in a tape the most.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

To me a better question would be "what tape measure is not accurate?"

I do not think that I have ever had a tape measure that was not sufficiently accurate. If I ever want to check one I compare it to a 36" aluminum yard stick that I have had for many years.

If I am doing an inside measurement I usually just start at the 1" mark, thus eliminating the sliding end. 

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*How does that work?*



GeorgeC said:


> If I am doing an inside measurement I usually just start at the 1" mark, thus eliminating the sliding end.
> 
> George


If it's an inside measurement, meaning trapped on both ends, you can not not start at the 1" mark. If it's trapped on only one end, then it still won't work starting at the 1" mark. I don't get it. ?

Usually those who "burn" the first 1" measure overall lengths that wa, but poses other issues like holding it exactly in place. Then they forget to add the 1" back on later. I don't do that myself for those trerasons. Hook the tape over and go with what you get. Woodworkin' ain't watchmakin' ... just sayin :wink2:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Depends on how and what you are using it for, any tape, rule or stick of wood will transfer measurements, just use the same mark that indicates the distance between the two points.

Determining dimensions to get numbers to transfer to another measuring device is another matter, this is when accuracy counts.

Very few run of the mill devices are dead on accurate, tape measures are probably the least accurate and most abused, however I have seen fairly expensive steel rules that are 1/64 of an inch out over a 12" span. 

Using the same device to measure throughout will usually keep you out of trouble, check it with a known accurate device if you are determining dimension numbers to transfer to another device. 

Keep an eye on the tape measure hook and adjust as necessary, one fall on the floor can bend it.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

I use a folding rule most of the time, and sometimes use a tape and start with the 1 inch mark.........................and sometimes end up with a part 1 inch too short LOL


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Life is like a box of chocolates!

Here are some pics of my tapes and the old reliable Lufkin folding ruler from many years ago.

The last pic is the 24 inch board I use to calibrate the Kreg Precision stops on my miter saw (measured with the folding ruler).


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> If it's an inside measurement, meaning trapped on both ends, you can not not start at the 1" mark. If it's trapped on only one end, then it still won't work starting at the 1" mark. I don't get it. ?
> 
> Usually those who "burn" the first 1" measure overall lengths that wa, but poses other issues like holding it exactly in place. Then they forget to add the 1" back on later. I don't do that myself for those trerasons. Hook the tape over and go with what you get. Woodworkin' ain't watchmakin' ... just sayin :wink2:


Where did the subject/word "trapped" come from? I have no idea of what you are saying.

George


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> Where did the subject/word "trapped" come from? I have no idea of what you are saying.
> 
> George


It means there's something at both ends blocking a 1" overhanging tape. It can be done from the edge BUT harder to hold accurately


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*inside measurement means ....*



GeorgeC said:


> Where did the subject/word "trapped" come from? I have no idea of what you are saying.
> 
> George


An inside measurement is the dimension between 2 surfaces or walls, or "trapped" my word.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lufkin-Extension-Folding-Rule-Red-End/162067052102?_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D43051%26meid%3D63629e295c404cf58ca1c5cb7937f934%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26










You can not take a direct measurement with a tape because it 
won't bend into the intersection. You can either use a folding rule with an extension or place the tape into the intersection and add the length of the body of the tape, some are labeled exclusively for that purpose. Like this:









Some tapes have a window to make seeing the actual measurement
easier:











http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-Mabo-Ta...lers-Tool-Inside-Measure-Easier-/261196772357


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

The most accurate way to make inside measurement is with two rulers. A short ruler on one side, then measure to the ruler and add the results


Enjoy yourself, life is short


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*inside vs outside measurements*

Inside measurements are taken inside the shop. Outside measurements are taken outside. :nerd2:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Terry Q said:


> The most accurate way to make inside measurement is with two rulers. A short ruler on one side, then measure to the ruler and add the results
> 
> 
> Enjoy yourself, life is short


I have used this method when I felt the need for precision.

George


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## Techsniffer (Feb 19, 2017)

Never thought tape measures would be such a hot topic, but while I'll admit precision in tape measures is a rare thing, and needed less often, I am a stickler and I feel if I'm putting in my time and effort I want to try and make it as best I can, probably a rookie view but I've always taken pride in my work.

And the primary purpose was to find a tape measure that is incremented properly and it fairly accurate to at least 10-12 ft, I don't think that's a big ask, and when I checked my two current ones they were over a 1/16 off after a little more than a foot, that inaccuracy adds up quickly. I get what everyone is saying about using the same measurement device or that it doesn't matter etc, but it matters to me and I think we can all agree no one can disagree with that being a good motivational tool to find something better.

I appreciate all the information and feedback but I still feel my original quest to find a pretty accurate tape measure went largely ignored (yes some did answer, and thank you), I'm willing to spend a little more for a high quality tape, but at the end of the day no one really drops $50+ for a tape measure, so I do have my limits.

Thanks again everyone, keep the information coming.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

agree with the Stanley for tape rules. BUT the biggest pitfall is when any tape rule is dropped, and it (always) lands on the tip bending it out of alignment. 


I find that you can bend it back with pliers, but takes a little messing to get it back to true.


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## dustboy (Mar 24, 2011)

I have 3 12' Stanley FatMax tapes that I trust, all are over 10 years old. Carpenters make fun of me on job sites for carrying such a compact tape but for most cabinet work it's long enough. If I'm working to a 1/64" then I burn an inch (and inevitably forget to subtract it later). 

You should calibrate any new tape by bending the hook with pliers until it reads accurately to a known measurement.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Another method is ....*



Terry Q said:


> The most accurate way to make inside measurement is with two rulers. A short ruler on one side, then measure to the ruler and add the results
> 
> 
> Enjoy yourself, life is short


Sometimes I use two shorter thin strips, about 1/4" x 1", run them into the surfaces and just tape them together or make a mark where they overlap.
I don't care that there is no inch, mm, cubits, or kilometer marks, I just want to know the distance. I then transfer that distance to my workpiece and make my cut. The cool thing about this method is now you have that mark in "storage" on the piece and you can label it for it's purpose, and if you need more lengths, there's your mark, no need to remember how many inches it was. :|


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Techsniffer said:


> snip
> 
> I appreciate all the information and feedback but I still feel my original quest to find a pretty accurate tape measure went largely ignored (yes some did answer, and thank you), I'm willing to spend a little more for a high quality tape, but at the end of the day no one really drops $50+ for a tape measure, so I do have my limits.
> 
> Thanks again everyone, keep the information coming.


Your original question was akin to what is the best axe to use to cut trim molding, so it is pretty hard to give a reply that will satisfy you.

The best tape measure is one you know is accurate enough for rough carpentry, could be any brand at any price, after that it depends on how you use it as has been discussed.


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## Techsniffer (Feb 19, 2017)

I ordered a FastCap T2001 Flatback 16' tape measure off Amazon and it arrived today.

Haven't had much chance to put it into action yet but here are my initial impressions:
1. Flat tapes are a joy to use, especially when marking many points
2. Dead on accurate markings (not talking about the tip, but the actual increments, which was the issue with my current 2)
3. Fixed tip (with angled bar) so I'm still able to mark outside and inside measurements
4. Pencil Sharpener - I had to take the blade off and re position, initially it was breaking the pencil lead off when it would get sharp (took like 20 seconds)
5. Rubber casing that actually protects the tip when fully reeled in
7. Dry erase notepad on the side for quick notes
8. Metric and Standard (Imperial) measurements
9. Easy to read tape with clearly noted 1/8" fractions makes things even faster to read (helpful for those us us that tend to misread an upside down tape)
10. Solid construction
11. Dual manual locks (normal slide lock and a manual pressure lock on the bottom)
12. Lever belt clip (no more having to pull your pants down trying to get the tape attached to your belt)


Overall I can see this becoming my new defacto tape measure on projects that require a higher accuracy and so far I'm enjoying it.


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## dustboy (Mar 24, 2011)

I hadn't see that Flatback tape before, seems like a great idea. I've used a lot of FastCap tapes and they are handy. My only gripe is that the wide tang on the hook makes it impossible to read fractional increments in the <1" range.


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## Techsniffer (Feb 19, 2017)

dustboy said:


> I hadn't see that Flatback tape before, seems like a great idea. I've used a lot of FastCap tapes and they are handy. My only gripe is that the wide tang on the hook makes it impossible to read fractional increments in the <1" range.


I've been using it all day today and I can honestly say this will be my go-to tape from now on when needing more than just rough measurements. Never thought I would enjoy using a tape measure but this is one of those items that makes you think "Why the hell aren't all tapes like this?"


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## Expatbrat (Apr 11, 2015)

When moaning to a Spaniard in Spain about wanting a tape measure in imperial measurements (very difficult to buy locally) Moises said he would get one for me. The next day he turned up with a Starrett measure. He worked in the printing industry and because many of the machines were American and historically printers (the trade and the machines) had worked in imperial they needed imperial measurements and because of the need for accuracy in their work they used Starrett.
Ii's the best tape measure I have ever had.


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## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Make-Precision-Tape-Measure/


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## Jakesmoke (Nov 23, 2017)

*Quality tape measure*

I’ve been a woodworker for over 30 years and have always used a16’ Stanley tape measure but even now they are not as durable as they used to be. I don’t know about y’all but I’m sick of all this made in China inferior crap. Would like to hear some suggestions on a tape measure that lasts more than a couple of weeks before the tape gets permanent bends or end breaks off or spring snaps if you pull them out to far.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't see that much difference from brand to brand as far as the accuracy of the tape blade. It's the belt clip I see the most difference. Today most make a belt clips are made where you have to stop what you are doing and use both hands to put the tape on your belt. The best in this regard I've seen is the Harbor Freight tape they give away for free. I don't like carrying a 25' tape around the shop so I have taken the belt clip off the HF tape and put on my 12' Stanley tapes. 

As far as the Harbor Freight free tapes, I have about 10 of them and two of them are not accurate but the other 8 are as accurate as any. I just mark the ones that are not accurate but they are only off 1/32".


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## new2woodwrk (Mar 16, 2015)

I just ordered a lefty/righty tape measure (FastCap PSSR25 25 foot Lefty/Righty Measuring Tape) from Smile dot Amazon.

I did this even though I have regular tape measure I use on all my projects.

*One of the most valuable lessons I've learned from this forum *was when you start a project with a specific/certain tape measure you should finish the project with the same tool. Hence of the several I own, I only use 1 on ALL my projects. It's a 25 foot Stanley I've had for years

The problem for me is always my eyes are not as good as they used to be and reading the tape upside down (it's a righty tape) has cause me a few mis-measurements.

So the one I ordered I can read no matter which side of the tape I look at or which hand I use to measure with and this will be the one I start and end with on new projects.

I guess for me, accuracy of the tape is not as important as does the joints and angles etc all line up without me have having to sand everything even.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

I had a single Craftsman tape measure for at least 10 years that I used for everything. I started my kitchen cabinet project and early on I dropped the tape measure onto a concrete floor, picked it up and continued to use it for a few months. My workshop is split between the garage and basement and one too many times the tape measure was in the other location. So I bought two new Stanley tape measures after checking several on the shelf for two that measured exactly the same (no variation due to the mounting / movement of the hook). When I started making the cabinet boxes some of the first face frames made were measuring 1/16” too narrow when checked with a Stanley tape measure. I then checked them with the old Craftsman and they measured perfect. Upon further inspection I realized the hook on the Craftsman was slightly bent. It must of happened when I dropped it months earlier. Lesson learned. I wrapped some electric tape around one of the Stanley’s to mark it and it is the only tape measure I’m now using for the cabinet project. It follows me between the two locations, well most of the time it follows me....

In hind sight, I would have been happier if I never bought the new tape measures!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

When the end of a tape measure gets bent you can lay it on a steel surface and gently hammer out the bend. Afterwards I will function like new.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Wait .. what? Are you saying that at 18", it is 1/16" off, but at 10' it is more like 1/4" off? I'm sorry, but I find it hard to believe that anyone makes a tape measure that is off like that.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Steve- it never occurred to me to hammer it out. I tried to use two pliers but that didn’t work too well!

Chris - it’s 1/16 off regardless of the total length being measured.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

Years ago at a yard sale I bought several steel rulers. They were all different. An inch on one was not an inch on the other or on my regular ruler. One was short and the others were over size. Turns out they were mold/pattern maker's rulers for making parts. For instance, a cast iron part may shrink 6% from when it is first solid to when it reaches room temperature. So the pattern maker uses a ruler that is that much oversize, to create a pattern that gives him the desired finished size. Played a mean trick on my son. Told him to cut a 1x2 eleven inches long and gave him one of the oversize rulers. when he brought the cut piece it obviously did not fit, so I measured it with a regular yard stick and it measured almost 12 inches, we started making fun of him over his inability to read a ruler etc. He was really mad when he figured out what we had done.


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