# Cutting board/Carved spoon



## Wood Butcher (Jul 28, 2010)

I'm planning to use maple pieces (rectangular blocks) glued together to make a cutting board. I'm concerned about which glue to use (toxicicity and water resistance). I'm leaning toward Titebond III. Any thoughts? Also, I'm going to carce a wooden spoon to go with it. Any thoughts about gouge type for the concave portion of the spoon? Bob


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Spoon gouge by flexcut!


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

I use Titebond ll for all of my cutting boards, it is FDA approved. It has a fast set but I glue strips together and not blocks so that is not a problem.


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## gcijones (Dec 13, 2010)

*cracked cutting boards*

Mizer,
Your cutting boards a beautiful. Is the finished side end grain or side grain? What type of finish are you using? I am new to woodworking and have begun to focus on cutting boards. None are as complex as yours. I am using maple end grain squares with borders of different woods. I have encountered some cracking across the grain of some on the squares within the first 90 days. Any idea what is going on? Here are a couple of pictures.


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

Beautiful cutting board! I think the issue is with the edge grain and end grain battling it out over movement. I don't see any checking in the rest of the board and it looks like you have selected good wood to work with. I think that your glue joints have proven to be very strong, strong enough to break that piece of maple. I like your design, you just might have to turn that border into end-grain instead of long-grain. I have been finishing my boards with General Finishes "Salad Bowl" finish. I have been applying at least four coats and making sure I flatten the finish real good on the last two coats. I tried the mineral oil on a few boards but went back to the Salad Bowl finish.


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## gcijones (Dec 13, 2010)

I think you have it right. I am going to try a few experiments in edge material this winter. Thanks for the tip on the salad bowl finish. I will definately try that. 

I need to ask one more neophyte question. What do you mean by "flatten" the finish on the last two coats. Remember, I am self taught. This forum is my first access to experienced woodworkers.

Thanks.


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

gcijones said:


> I think you have it right. I am going to try a few experiments in edge material this winter. Thanks for the tip on the salad bowl finish. I will definately try that.
> 
> I need to ask one more neophyte question. What do you mean by "flatten" the finish on the last two coats. Remember, I am self taught. This forum is my first access to experienced woodworkers.
> 
> Thanks.


I am self taught like yourself and most folks here so don't worry about asking any question that seems dumb. The last couple of coats I make sure to sand the finish so that there is hardly any shiny showing. I use a sanding sponge to do this. This leaves the surface pretty flat and makes the final coat come out good. I am by no means an expert on finishing, maybe someone else can add some more advice.


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## gcijones (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks! I can do that.

The next challenge is to figure out a way to get the GF Salad Bowl Finish here. It is not offered in any stores in Alaska and the Internet sources will not (or can not) ship it by air. If it is shipped by surface, it will freeze (8 below here this AM). I may just have to jump in my truck and run to Seattle to get a quart!


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## hawglet (Feb 15, 2010)

track down a trucker and that comes thru your town regularly but comes out of the south (relatively) and have it shipped to their address then he can put it in the cab and drop it off to you. Most of those guys would probably do something like this for little of nothing most likely.


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## Bob R (Sep 22, 2010)

gcijones said:


> I think you have it right. I am going to try a few experiments in edge material this winter. Thanks for the tip on the salad bowl finish. I will definately try that.
> 
> I need to ask one more neophyte question. What do you mean by "flatten" the finish on the last two coats. Remember, I am self taught. This forum is my first access to experienced woodworkers.
> 
> Thanks.


Salad bowl finish is not the best choice for a cutting board,it leaves a film and thats a no no,a better finish and absolutely safe is mineral oil.


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

Canarywood said:


> Salad bowl finish is not the best choice for a cutting board,it leaves a film and thats a no no,a better finish and absolutely safe is mineral oil.


I would be hesitant to say anything is absolute. 
The first coat of Salad Bowl finish penetrates into the wood and the subsequent coats seal and do build a film. To me it gives the whole piece a very nice look. What I have found to work well is a combination of both methods. After the board has developed knife marks it is very easy to cover them up and maintain the appearance of the heavy use areas with a wiping of mineral oil.


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## gcijones (Dec 13, 2010)

I use Titebond II and have been very happy with it. The wood will crack before the glue gives up. When I make butcher block cutting boards, I make the square boards (say 2"x2") then glue them together, alternating the direction of the end grain. I ususally glue either 4 or 6 boards. Then slice them at the desited thickness. The slices can then be glued together, alternating the orientaton to create a butcher block pattern. It has to be an even number of boards to make this work.


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