# Garage storage - sliding door closet



## tomo629 (Dec 9, 2015)

I am wanting to build some storage for my garage. It is a tight space when both vehicles are in there and I like the idea of everything being out of sight/out of mind & knowing that nothing is going to fall on my truck. I want to do this right but also want to do it as cost effective as possible. This is close to what I want to build:









The doors will be on a closet sliding track. My garage has 8.5' ceilings so I want my doors to be at least 8' tall. 
I'm looking for suggestions on how to build the doors. I'm currently considering a couple options:
5/8 shed siding with 1xs to stiffen it up - will have a barn door look or make a hollow core door with 1xs & thin plywood.

The shed siding will probably hold up the best but will the plywood warp over time if I only put 1xs on the front?









I appreciate any advice you can share. 



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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would ensure that the height of the opening is no more than what is required to use standard plywood for the door. Using plywood would save a lot of work.

George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Don't cheap out on the sliding door tract. People can't stand sliding closet doors anymore because they are always coming off the tract. 

I'm not sure what I would recommend for the doors. Plywood would warp giving you nothing but trouble. I once lived in an apartment that used sheetrock for a door like that. It worked pretty good but had a metal frame around it to mount the rollers. If you could live with the doors being 1" thick you might make a wood frame and laminate a piece of 1/8" standard hardboard on both sides.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

I really like the second small picture of the barn door type.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> Don't cheap out on the sliding door tract. People can't stand sliding closet doors anymore because they are always coming off the tract.
> 
> I'm not sure what I would recommend for the doors. Plywood would warp giving you nothing but trouble. I once lived in an apartment that used sheetrock for a door like that. It worked pretty good but had a metal frame around it to mount the rollers. If you could live with the doors being 1" thick you might make a wood frame and laminate a piece of 1/8" standard hardboard on both sides.


Please give rationale for plywood warping. I do not see that as an issue in this usage. However, it is easily handled if an issue by aluminum angle at top and bottom of each door. 

George

PS I too like the barn door approach. I am not a fan of sliding closet doors.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> Please give rationale for plywood warping. I do not see that as an issue in this usage. However, it is easily handled if an issue by aluminum angle at top and bottom of each door.
> 
> George
> 
> PS I too like the barn door approach. I am not a fan of sliding closet doors.


Did you ever see a 4x8 sheet of plywood that didn't warp unless it was attached to a frame. It warps not only in width but length too so the doors would have the potential of rubbing each other. Aluminum angle wouldn't be enough to stop it and have doubts if small steel angle would stop it either. Maybe if lumber core plywood was used with a steel frame it might not warp but lumber core is difficult to find and expensive.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

The wheels and tracks for sliding glass doors would better suit the weight of large wooden doors you're wanting.
Personally, I'd make a frame work and use 4'x8' peg board for the doors. Hang stuff on the outside of one door, and on the inside of the other. Unless you plan on locking them, allow both to be slid completely across so it wouldn't matter which door was "left or right".


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> Did you ever see a 4x8 sheet of plywood that didn't warp unless it was attached to a frame. It warps not only in width but length too so the doors would have the potential of rubbing each other. Aluminum angle wouldn't be enough to stop it and have doubts if small steel angle would stop it either. Maybe if lumber core plywood was used with a steel frame it might not warp but lumber core is difficult to find and expensive.


Quite the contrary. I have not seen a sheet of plywood that did warp on its own. And I have many around the garage right now and in my outside shed. Some are standing on edge and some laid flat on a rack overhead.

George


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

You have many choices to make your doors from. 
Plywood, MDF, Masonite, OSB, or any combination. When set in a simple frame, any of these materials can be used. 
I would use T111 in a frame for the doors. I think it would make nice doors for a garage storage unit.


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## tomo629 (Dec 9, 2015)

Thanks for all the suggestions! Any suggestions on the track? I want to stick with the sliding doors (2 rows) - so I can slide them out of the way & have an 8' opening where I need it. 


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## tomo629 (Dec 9, 2015)

Anyone have experience with Johnson Hardware? 
http://jhusa.net/100SD.aspx#100SD_Ordering_Instructions

100962DR is good for 48" wide doors that weigh up to 200#


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## tomo629 (Dec 9, 2015)

Hey everyone I'm nearly done with this project I just need to glue the skins to the frames & hang the doors on the tracks. I made the frames with 1x4s and I'm using 1/4" hardboard paneling on the fronts and 1/4 plywood on the backs. My plan is to use glue and tack the hardboard & plywood with a brad nailer. I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions on clamping the skins on & what type of glue will work best?

I don't have as many clamps as I'd like - thinking along the lines of sandwiching the doors between plywood and putting weight around the edges. 

Thanks for any suggestions you can give me - Biggest glue up I've had to do so far. 


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