# Staining Over Reclaimed Buthcer Block



## Mikesly (Apr 19, 2012)

I've reclaimed an old butcher block (24"x72"x2") that has been used in a bakery for a number of years and plan to make it in to a desk top. I've sanded the top surface and found it has an oil (I'm guessing mineral oil) soaked in the top layers. 

I want to stain and seal the butcher block but don't know how to handle the mineral oil that continues to rise to the surface. I'm new to this type of project and purchased a water based stain before realizing the issue with the mineral oil. 

What might be a good way to prep the wood to accept a stain/sealant and prevent the oils from surfacing down the road once it's being used as a desk top (with out using a shellac to preserve more of a satin finish)?


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Mikesly said:


> I've reclaimed an old butcher block (24"x72"x2") that has been used in a bakery for a number of years and plan to make it in to a desk top. I've sanded the top surface and found it has an oil (I'm guessing mineral oil) soaked in the top layers.
> 
> I want to stain and seal the butcher block but don't know how to handle the mineral oil that continues to rise to the surface. I'm new to this type of project and purchased a water based stain before realizing the issue with the mineral oil.
> 
> What might be a good way to prep the wood to accept a stain/sealant and prevent the oils from surfacing down the road once it's being used as a desk top (with out using a shellac to preserve more of a satin finish)?


Tricky situation, depending on how old, how often, and how much oil has been applied to the wood over the years, one can not give definite affirmative guidelines as to what or how many applications of a solvent/thinner/diluent, would be necessary to remove as much of the oil as possible. 

What i would suggest right off hand is multiple coats of denatured alcohol and acetone 50/50 to start with applied fairly heavy and wiped off with paper towels after a couple of minutes and continue this process several times, let dry overnight, and test the piece for any or how much oil may still be present. 

How oily it may still be, can be determined to a degree by taking a piece of plain white paper and placing it on the wood surface and using a warm 130-140F iron to place on the paper for a couple of minutes or less, and lifting the iron to see if oil has been absorbed into the paper making it wet or moist, If you also do this before the above solvent treatment you will have something to compare as to how bad it was before you started and where its at after each solvent treatment phase it goes through. 

If you continue this regimen till no oil is visible on the paper, then you will have at least succeeded in insuring the uppermost surface is virtually free from oil - here again though, i would take your water stain back and go with a solvent base stain and clear coating instead, using sealcoat shellac as the first coat over the stain to insure decent results. 

That's my 1 cents worth of suggestion - i'll save the other in case i think of any better ok? :yes:


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

OK, my other penny - how is the other side? could it be flipped over and used as the top?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Another penny's worth. You might find a cabinet shop that has a 24" planer and mill 1/8" off the top to get the oil soaked surface off.


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## Mikesly (Apr 19, 2012)

Steve - Thank you for the very useful information!

Chemmy - To answer your question about the condition of the opposite side, it's not as beautiful or in as good of shape as the top. The underside has a large gash that goes deep and would be very difficult to sand down to a smooth surface. My best option is to use the top surface.

I'm considering having the top 1/8"+ planned off and hope that depth will be enough to free the piece from the oils. Because I've not worked with this scenario before I'm unsure how deep the oil has soaked in to the wood. I guess the upside is there is plenty of wood to work with and shaving off 1/8" will not harm anything and will make the piece a little lighter considering it weighs a good bit. 

Thanks for suggesting a cabinet shop for the planning work b/c I was unsure who to reach out to for this type of work! If I decide to have it planned I'll be sure to report back the results. Many thanks for your input!


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Was it ever used as a chopping block? In other words are there food oils also soaked into the wood?


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## Mikesly (Apr 19, 2012)

Yes, it was used as a chopping block. From what I've been informed it was in a bakery for several years. I'm thinking they oiled the top regularly due to the high use of flour on the surface. 

It shows interesting nicks and scratches from years of wear that I was hoping to keep for the reclaimed looked, however, if I planned the top I will lose those features. Although I would rather lose some of the nicks and scratches to be rid of the oils.


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