# Mitre saw not cutting straight



## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

I have a Dewalt 717 mitre saw with a Freud Dibalo 10" blade and for the llife of me I can't figure out why, when making straight cuts, they come out crooked. I am going slow, clamping the workpiece down tight, but nothing seems to work, every piece comes out the same crooked way. I have re tightened the blade, but it was already tight. The saw is only about 3 months old. I did a blade alignment test and it appears to be straight. I appreciate any comments/suggestions. Thank you.


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## Sawdustguy (Dec 30, 2008)

Since you are clamping the board down it can be only one of two things that I can see. Either the saw is out of alignment or there is something on the fence. 

Did you put a square on the table resting the head against the fence and check the arm of the square against the saw blade? Do not check it against the tooth check against the blade body.


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

George,

Thanks, I was measuring against the tooth, so I will try your advice. The weird thing is, it cuts straight halfway through the cut, then it gets crooked. So every cut is half straight, which is strange.


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## BigJoe16 (Feb 20, 2012)

Noek said:


> George, Thanks, I was measuring against the tooth, so I will try your advice. The weird thing is, it cuts straight halfway through the cut, then it gets crooked. So every cut is half straight, which is strange.


That can't be. The blade can't cut anything but straight. If a circular blade like that of a mitre saw, cut a curve or bend like you say, it would bind up. It wouldn't fit around the bend in the cut. 

As for the saw, make sure your fence and top is clean and free of chips. My saw cuts the same way, it is about 1/2 degree off. I have to turn the head of the saw to the right 1/2 a degree to get perpendicular cuts. Try ajusting that on your saw.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It could be as simple as operator input. You may be exerting side pressure on the saw when cutting, causing it not to cut straight.








 







.


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

I have checked the whole saw over, either it is me screwing up or my clamp down isn't holding the piece all the way. For these cuts, I was not able to use both sides of the fence (or both clamp downs) since it was a short cut, the board wasn't long enough to extend all the the way to the right since I was only cutting about 1/4" off the board so perhaps that is what happened. Funny thing is, I must be consistently sucking because I made that same cut three times the same way.


I did align the saw to fence and it is dead on. Thanks for the input guys, I'll do a few test cuts tomorrow using the whole fence and both clamps to make sure it really is me.


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## Saxe Point (Jan 29, 2013)

Is you carpenter's square really square? Might be worth checking.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

I have a DeWalt DWS780, 12" compound miter, chop radial arm saw, and have had the same problem since day 1. I have been told that it just part of the saws problems. When I pull it all the way, go in, I'll be 1/16 to 1/8 off. If I just chop, right on. I'll have to try everything that has been listed. It is very annoying. Eric


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

I have the same saw and it was dead on right out of the box. Which Freud Dibalo 10" blade exactly do you have ? Remember even with all the fancy sliding bevel etc...it is basically still a chop saw, you can't use rip blades or any blade with a positive hook angle more then 5 degrees, even with a negative hook angle shouldn't be over 5 degrees. Have you tried putting the stock blade that came with the saw back on and make a cut, to see if it cuts straight, that would be my first check. Wrong blade type could be grabbing the wood and moving it, much like using a router in the wrong direction it try to climb on you, which you won't feel because it's a slider.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

cabinetman said:


> It could be as simple as operator input. You may be exerting side pressure on the saw when cutting, causing it not to cut straight. .


. I hope I don't sound bad but what do I need to do to correct that. I pull out drop done and gently push in.

Eric


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

GoNavy429 said:


> I have the same saw and it was dead on right out of the box. Which Freud Dibalo 10" blade exactly do you have ? Remember even with all the fancy sliding bevel etc...it is basically still a chop saw, you can't use rip blades or any blade with a positive hook angle, even with a negative hook angle shouldn't be over 5 degrees. Have you tried putting the stock blade that came with the saw back on and make a cut, to see if it cuts straight, that would be my first check. Wrong blade type could be grabbing the wood and moving it, much like using a router in the wrong direction it try to climb on you, which you won't feel because it's a slider.


 I'm using a 12" Diablo 80 tooth blade, model D1280x. I looked it up and it says it is at 15 degrees. 

Model #	D1280X
Diameter	12"
Machine Use	Miter & Slide Miter Saw
Application	Fine-Finish
Teeth	80 Hi-ATB 
(Alternate-Top Bevel)
Arbor	1"
Kerf	.118"
Hook Angle	15°

If this is not a good blade to use may I ask what you are use or suggest? Thanks


Eric


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Anguspapa said:


> I'm using a 12" Diablo 80 tooth blade, model D1280x. I looked it up and it says it is at 15 degrees.
> 
> Model # D1280X
> Diameter 12"
> ...


I rarely use a blade other than a 60T. I would use an 80T for some very thin or fragile material. I find that operator input can be an unconscious thing. This doesn't mean that you are unconscious while working. It just means that at times we do things without consciously thinking about them.

With tools that have outboard activities, like a radial arm saw, a CMS, and a SCMS, you can create some play in lateral movements with enough input. IOW, you can inadvertently override the lash restraint of the bearings and guides. If you pull out the saw motor of a RAS, you could twist the motor to cause some movement of the blade (left to right). On a SCMS, the same is possible, once you get the saw motor outboard. 

So, all this dribble just means that it could be operator input. As you pull out your saw...or push it (whichever way you like to cut), let the saw ride as it will with just a guide control factor, and without any wrist action that could cause a deflection of travel. It's all about the feel. 

















.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

deleted..... thought I replying to OP, sorry..lol...when I saw 12" Diablo 80 tooth blade, model D1280x I freaked out for a sec, thought it was the OP and he was using that on DW717 which is a 10" saw...lol


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

GoNavy429 said:


> Well right off the bat that is a 1 inch arbor and these saws use a 5/8" arbor, so unless you are using some type of adapter, the blade may be moving on you, and is potentially dangerous. The main thing you need to check is arbor size and hook angle, just don't go over 5 degrees, positive or negative. Stay away from combination blade almost all of them have high hook angles, allot of finish blades that 80 to 100 tooth do as well. Freud are good blades. If you want to stick with them then Freud LU91R010 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB will do just fine. But to be honest, 90% of the time I just use the stock blade that came with it, unless I plan to do fine miter cuts for joints then I use ATB blades, you really don't need more then 60 tooth. Just my opinion but for the cost difference of an 80 to 100 tooth vs the 60 ATB not worth it. I don't see the difference. edit: Oh almost forgot DW717 is a 10 inch saw NOT a 12" if you wanted a 12" saw should have got the next model up. running 12" blade on a 10" saw is DANGEROUS, stop doing that...if you value your limbs


The saw that I'm using is the DeWalt DWS780, 12", with a 1" arbor. It's about 2 years old and still there newest of the 12" saws by DeWalt. Just like you said, I'll not use any adapter. The first gentleman on the post is using a 10" and we are both experiencing the same problem. Do you know what the angle is on the DeWalt blades? They're not saying on the websites I have been to. Thanks!

Eric


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

GoNavy429 said:


> deleted..... thought I replying to OP, sorry..lol...when I saw 12" Diablo 80 tooth blade, model D1280x I freaked out for a sec, thought it was the OP and he was using that on DW717 which is a 10" saw...lol


 No problem! I have done same thing.  I guess I quoted you to fast.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Anguspapa said:


> I'm using a 12" Diablo 80 tooth blade, model D1280x. I looked it up and it says it is at 15 degrees.
> 
> Model #	D1280X
> Diameter	12"
> ...


OK now I am on the right one...I still don't like that blade, because these are miter saw and anything more then a 5 degree hook angle positive or negative can cause some problems, because for all the fancy stuff these saws do, they are still basically a chop saw. I agree with anything more then 60 tooth is really just wasting your money. For 90% of the stuff I do the basic stock blade works just fine, unless your doing a fine miter for a joint then use any ATB 60 tooth blade, just check the hook angle less then 5 degrees. Could be that 15 degree blade might be grabbing the wood and moving it, but I doubt it, wouldn't do it every time. My guess is either, the glide bars are bent, or you really didn't square it up right.

To square it up, first unplug it, the put your square against the fence and blade, have the blade all the way down, move the unit back and forth along the full lenght so the square touches both full out and fully in along the entire lenght of the slide

One additional thought your saw also does both 5/8 and 1 inch arbor, just a check but do you use an adapter for that, my saw only has 5/8 so it's not an issue, but if an adapter is necessary and your not using it, might make some blade play.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I bought a 10" Delta "chop" saw back in about 1985 or so. Any blade you want, the cut wasn't square to the fence. Took a thin wall socket as a friend discovered that the fence casting was so thick that once moved into "square," you could not get at the tie-down bolt head. Sort of zero clearance, just before it was in the correct alignment. The other half of the fence has lots of space around the bolt heads.

It's as close as we can get it now, not quite correct but far better than it once was. If/when it gives me any more grief, I'll have a machine shop mill away some of the back of that half of the fence. Maybe 1/8" overtravel would be useful for access.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Is it not cutting square? Or, is it cutting dished? 

If it is cutting dished the guides are loose. Which since you say it is good for part of the cut is my guess. 

If it isn't cutting square the Dewalts have an adjustable index, just loosen the protractor and adjust the detent locations. 

I have an old DW705 that I use for narrower boards because the more things that move the more slop you have. So a slider is inherently less accurate than the 705 with its one pivot point.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

jigs-n-fixtures said:


> Is it not cutting square? Or, is it cutting dished? If it is cutting dished the guides are loose. Which since you say it is good for part of the cut is my guess. If it isn't cutting square the Dewalts have an adjustable index, just loosen the protractor and adjust the detent locations. I have an old DW705 that I use for narrower boards because the more things that move the more slop you have. So a slider is inherently less accurate than the 705 with its one pivot point.


I'm not sure what is meant dished?

Eric


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## Dandan111 (Oct 29, 2013)

You get the same result from both left and right fence? That should show if its fence related


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I may be wrong but I believe my DeWalt can be adjusted to cut square. If I remember correctly there are some screws in the indicator for the angle with the stop notches. The can be loosen and moved slightly to make it lock at 90 degrees. I believe I had to adjust mine several years ago.
Tom


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Anguspapa said:


> I'm not sure what is meant dished?
> 
> Eric


Dished would be cutting a slight curve. So if you lay a straight edge across it there is a gap, or it rocks.


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

update, my saw still cuts the same. Normally I make short cuts so it doesn't happen but on longer cuts, it cuts the same every time. Straight and then the second half of the cut is crooked. I've tried cutting gentle, applying more force, but it doesn't seem to matter, every cut on wide boards is the same (wide as in 8"), starts out straight and then goes crooked. I used my square and my fence to blade is right on. My blade is a 50 tooth blade. I guess tomorrow I will put the factory Dewalt blade back in and check it. Frustrating because I just noticed the saw doing this, I normally don't cut very wide boards with it, generally just short cuts. Basically every cut looks like the picture in my first post, crooked.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Exactly what 50 tooth blade?*

I don't know of any mitersaw blades with 50 teeth. Most have 60, 80, or 120 AND the hook angle of the teeth on those is negative. If you are using a General Purpose or Combination blade, that may be the issue. If it's a thin kerf, that won't help either because the plate of the blade needs to be stiff so it won't deflect. A full kerf blade will work better. Post back with what you have in there now and what the facory blade is ...exactly thin, full, number of teeth etc. :yes:


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Noek said:


> update, my saw still cuts the same. Normally I make short cuts so it doesn't happen but on longer cuts, it cuts the same every time. Straight and then the second half of the cut is crooked. I've tried cutting gentle, applying more force, but it doesn't seem to matter, every cut on wide boards is the same (wide as in 8"), starts out straight and then goes crooked. I used my square and my fence to blade is right on. My blade is a 50 tooth blade. I guess tomorrow I will put the factory Dewalt blade back in and check it. Frustrating because I just noticed the saw doing this, I normally don't cut very wide boards with it, generally just short cuts. Basically every cut looks like the picture in my first post, crooked.


So let me get this straight, if you just chop it cuts straight, but if you use the slider to cut wider boards, it's off, then it must be the slider tubes are bent or misaligned, has to be..I'm not sure if there is an adjustment for the slider bars. May be a case for dewalt tech support and maybe a return as defective deal.


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

GoNavy429 said:


> So let me get this straight, if you just chop it cuts straight, but if you use the slider to cut wider boards, it's off, then it must be the slider tubes are bent or misaligned, has to be..I'm not sure if there is an adjustment for the slider bars. May be a case for dewalt tech support and maybe a return as defective deal.


Correct, unless it is something I am doing, but I can't believe I am that good (or bad) as to being able to replicate the same bad cut more than 4 times. The picture shows exactly how my cuts are turning out. Not sure how to check the sliding tubes for accuracy but the manual does not indicate there being a way to adjust/align them.

That being said, if the sliders were not aligned, I'm not sure how my blade to the fence would be aligned as I slide the saw from front to back along the straightedge?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Hang on....run a straight edge all the way across the fence, is there a bow in the middle?


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

no the fence is completely straight, I checked that as well. The only thing I can think of (aside from it being me) is the blade. I will try the OEM blade tomorrow to see if it's a different cut.


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## J Thomas (Aug 14, 2012)

Noek: Have you ever had the saw bind & kick?? That could cause a very slight bend in the tubes.
Not enough to see or to bind up the bearings but still enough to mess up the accuracy.
Can you check the tubes with a "known to be good" straight edge?
If your square is good, clamp it to the table just touching a tooth. Then run the saw out to full extension & compare to the same tooth.
Bet luck man... I know how frustrating little errors can be.
..Jon..


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Just to be clear, and not to insult you, but when you cut, you do start slid out completely then plunge down and away from you back in making the cut...correct. Because if you try and use this like it was an old radial arm saw and pull it towards you, then you would be doing a climb cut, much like a router in the wrong direction. So the correct action is out down and in, pushing it away from you. I know it sounds silly to ask, but we have to exclude every thing. Has Spock said.... once you eliminate the possible, whats left, no matter how improbable, must be the answer...lol..we'll get there and get you some straight cuts, there got to be hundreds if not thousands of years of experience here on these boards..it will get solved I am sure. I know my curiosity is peaked..lol


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

And, with all of the above; Is the Rail Guide Adjustment correct?


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

Noek, 
I'm in the same boat as you. I personally believe it's DeWalts problems! I hope that you repost if it works when you put the stock blade on. Are you using a blade like I'm using and posted earlier? I think the only difference in our saws, is mine in a 12", the year it was made is 2011. That is when they changed some really basic things. 

Eric


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

Jon, I checked the tubes and they are as a straight as can be as far as I can tell, the push/pull action is very smooth and with my edge it is straight. I've never had the saw bind up or anything and I've always done short chop cuts, this is the first time I've done a long cut and noticed this.

Navy - I clamp my piece tight against the fence, hold piece with left hand. I engage the saw closest to me and push it to the rear as I cut, letting the saw do the cutting and not forcing. So I start front to back.

I have to work today but if I get off early enough I'm going to run some test cuts with the factory blade. Very frustrating. I appreciate all of everyone's help and will re read everything in case I missed something.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

GoNavy429,

What do you think of the, Freud LU91R012 12-Inch 72 Tooth. I'll manly be using this on hardwoods.

http://www.freudtools.com/p-20-thin-kerf-sliding-compound-miterbr-nbsp.aspx

Eric


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## Sawdustguy (Dec 30, 2008)

Anguspapa said:


> What do you think of the, Freud LU91R012 12-Inch 72 Tooth. I'll manly be using this on hardwoods.
> 
> http://www.freudtools.com/p-20-thin-kerf-sliding-compound-miterbr-nbsp.aspx
> 
> Eric


I have that blade in my Hitachi SCM saw and love it.

George


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Anguspapa said:


> GoNavy429,
> 
> What do you think of the, Freud LU91R012 12-Inch 72 Tooth. I'll manly be using this on hardwoods.
> 
> ...


I never bought a bad Freud blade. I can't really comment on that particular blade because I have the DW717 which is a 10" saw, but I do have the Freud LU91R010 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB almost the same thing. I generally don't go over 60 tooth because I think it is a waste of money. The price difference vs quality of cut, just doesn't add up.. I got my Freud when I had a Radial Arm Saw, and it has held up very well, I have used it on my Dewalt, but very seldom, only when I need a super smooth cut, which it does very well, used it on Red Oak, which is a hard wood. I liked it because of the negative hook angle. Even though I am not a big fan of thin kerf blades (this is the only one I own) this is a good one. Oddly enough for every day, normal cuts the stock blade can't be beat and they are fairly inexpensive. Dewalt actually makes a decent blade.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Rip a pce of 1/4" plywood(TS),maybe an inch under your saws capacity.With the proper and razor sharp blade,do a test cut sveral inches away from end of test monkey pc.

"IF"...and ain't sayin it is/not...the blade is flexing it more than likely will be worse on thicker pcs.There's other reasons for flexure but by using thin'ish test pce it should lesson the error.

If that dosen't show anything positive.........then you are going to have to bust out some measuring tools.Because,there's either something bent or worn out as posted above.What seems tight and right will have to be confirmed with more than seat of the pants measures.

And it can prove difficult(fixturing) because you're looking at a dynamic measure.Meaning,you can pull/push all day long checking with D.I.(dial ind)....and have it in tolerance.It's not until the assembly get's "loaded",that the error/slop gets introduced.So having a D.I. hangin fractions of an inch away from spinning blade....ain't exactly on anyone's wish list.Try the 1/4",and really pay attention to the blade "riding" the wood instead of cutting.Good luck.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*good ideas*

The thinner wood will not influence the kerf as much!:no:

I would be curious to see what the cut looks like when set each side of 90 degrees, to the right and left say, 10 degrees. Is the cut still concave on the left side of the blade or does it flop over and is also concave on the opposing angle. That would tell me that one or both of the sliding tubes is curved. I don't know if you can rotate the tubes in their housings, but if so I'd turn one 90 degrees to put the curve in the vertical rather than horizontal plane.

If all else fails call tech support and ask if this is a rare or a common complaint. If rare then I'd request to send the unit back for a "factory" rebuild....at their expense. My older Dewalt 708 still cuts true, pull out, push down and forward with the factory supplied blade. :yes:


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 12, 2009)

I've been following this thread with interest....I have the DW717...when I first got it ( in 2010), my cuts were doing the same as the OP.....I then went through the setup, from the manual, and that cured the problem.....about 4 weeks ago, I replaced the original blade with a Diablo 60 tooth Fine Finish Slide Miter Saw blade....no adjustments needed after replacing the blade......I might have missed it, but I assume the OP went through then entire setup/adjustment procedure.....I have a framing square, but I don't really trust it, so I have a straight edge I ripped from 3/4" oak ply on my table saw, that I use as a reference....I too would make a cut from each side of the table, and then butt them together, to see what that looks like.....


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

Ok, I am going to try this today when I get home from work. So basically make two mitered cuts at 10degrees one to the left and one to the right? Is that right?

Also I haven't had a chance to replace the Freud blade with the factory one so I still need to do that as well.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Noek said:


> Also I haven't had a chance to replace the Freud blade with the factory one so I still need to do that as well.


This is a must, we have to get that blade out of the equation. Keep us posted inquiring minds need to know...lol


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

We'll I put my stock blade on and it still did it. I called DeWalt up and they could not answer the question. They gave me another repair company, Valley Tool Repair, who is registered with DeWalt. They said it is the saw, the model, since it is being pulled all the way out, and it has done it to me on the DW718 and DWS780. And nothing can be done. But I'm going to try the 5 degree or less blade and see what happens. I hope Noek has better luck.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Anguspapa said:


> We'll I put my stock blade on and it still did it. I called DeWalt up and they could not answer the question. They gave me another repair company, Valley Tool Repair, who is registered with DeWalt. They said it is the saw, the model, since it is being pulled all the way out, and it has done it to me on the DW718 and DWS780. And nothing can be done. But I'm going to try the 5 degree or less blade and see what happens. I hope Noek has better luck.


Just for fun, maybe try ignoring your square and just readjusting your miter scale by eye the amount your off then tightening every thing back up and doing some cuts. Might be your square is goofy. Have you tried using other squares.


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

Navy - I tried that as well. I'll get to the blade change out tonight but if that doesn't work, it will make a good doorstop.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*There are 66 reviews for that saw on Amazon.*

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW717-...5OO/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1

One comment is about the slides being lower than in previous saw models which add to the "deflection"... bottom of the first review.

Either the slides are deflecting, OR one or both are curved, OR they are not tight in their housings, OR the slide bearings have some play relative to the rods themselves. It's one of the above..... I'll bet a cold beverage on that. 

I don't think it's the blade or the arbor/motor, but I could be mistaken. :blink:


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW717-Double-Bevel-Compound-Miter-Saw/product-reviews/B001AIX5OO/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1 One comment is about the slides being lower than in previous saw models which add to the "deflection"... bottom of the first review. Either the slides are deflecting, OR one or both are curved, OR they are not tight in their housings, OR the slide bearings have some play relative to the rods themselves. It's one of the above..... I'll bet a cold beverage on that. I don't think it's the blade or the arbor/motor, but I could be mistaken. :blink:


On the older models the slides use to run vertically, now they run horizontally and the is just a hair of wobble. So this could very well be the problem. It wobbles a little to the left and to the right. Now the trick is letting the saw do the work and not trying to be to controlling. Maybe that will stop the wobbling. Thanks Woodnthings.

Eric


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Noek said:


> Navy - I tried that as well. I'll get to the blade change out tonight but if that doesn't work, it will make a good doorstop.


Mine was dead on right out the box. I would think Dewalt would stand behind their product. I have never had dealing with their tech support, but both you guys may have a defective saw and I would think Dewalt would make that right, especially when these aren't cheap saws and are used by many professionals. I have never seen one that couldn't be adjusted to cut right, but of course these new double bevel deals adds allot of movable parts, and you know the old adage, more parts more to go wrong.

What happens if you make a single 45 degree cut then flip one side to make a 90 (doing the chop with out slider the part that suppose to be straight) Is it still off then...just curious.


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## Dandan111 (Oct 29, 2013)

I bet you get ahold of a manager they will make it right. I wouldn't want it as is unless you can adjust it out.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

If Noek bought it from Depot or Lowes, they will swap it out. I worked for Depot for 10 year, and left having very little respect for them. But, just raise a little hell and he will get a new one or they'll take it back. Mine's 2 years old, so that won't work, but, I have a DeWalt service center right by my place. I do thank everyone for there input and help, it's made me look at a couple of things. I just did a cut on 8/4 x 10" Purpleheart with the same blade I've been using, but new, and it came out good. We'll see how it goes. 

Eric


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

Eric, I purchased it from Amazon but I'm thinking of returning it if I can. I have had it for about 6 months and I do love the saw, but it seems it's only good for short cuts. 

I rechecked the whole saw this evening per the manual again, just in case I missed something. I did a few test cuts on 1/4" red oak 11" long and my results were the same. I removed the Freud blade and installed the factory blade back in to no avail
. 
I have noticed on the cut that halfway through it gets jagged. It doesn't show up well on the pictures but it is very pronounced. The cut starts straight then halfway through something goes horribly wrong. Before I throw in the towel completely I am going to have my wife watch me do a few cuts and see if she notices anything strange halfway through the cut, who knows.

Apparently either something is very wrong with the saw or I am extremely good at make totally crappy cuts. Below are a few pictures of the new cuts which are exactly similar to the cuts I was getting a few days ago. 

 









I appreciate everyone's tips and advice in attempting to help me resolve this. I'm not sure if I can return it but if I can I am going to do a little more research on my next saw purchase, stay positive, and cross my fingers :smile:

Keon


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Noek post a picture of the saw from the left side as you face it with the saw guard up out of the way, I'd like to see something.


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

Sorry it's kind of dark in my garage, my lighting is terrible


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Thanks, just want to verify you didn't have your blade on backwards...lol...but I did notice your bevel hold down is not set. It has a double lock, the side switch and the long one on the top should be straight back. I don't think it can cause some play, but you never know. Have you tried the 45 degree thing yet on a small piece where the slider is not used. One single cut at 45 degrees then flip one piece to make a 90. If it is cutting straight with chop then this will let you know for sure, or if its still off, then there is an alignment problem with the way your doing it. That cut is really bad, not sure why that is so bad, other then a dull blade.


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

Navy - Thanks for checking, you never know hehe. Having the blade on backwards is something I would totally do too :laughing:

Yeah the top bevel lever wasn't locked but even with the side adjusters locked and the top open, there really isn't any side to side play. I didn't do the 45 cut because all of my short chop cuts are good, never had a problem with those being accurate and I did a ton of small trim 45 cuts for a project and they all came out spot on. 



Seems it only happens on the longer cuts. Weird I know, doesn't make much sense to me, but I already have my eye on a Bosch glide saw :smile:


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Well thats a shame because these are really nice saws. Was looking my over today, if your slide bars are bent, I was noticing that they appear to pinned from underneath with some allen screws. Maybe put a mark on the bar then loosen them and try a to turn the bars 1/4 turn. This would make the bar be bent up/down as opposed to side to side. About the only thing I can think of...I have the exact same saw and mine is dead on, in fact it's the most accurate saw I have ever had...other then that I am out of ideas.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

Noek, 

I from Orange County, myself and a electrician (pretty funny). Good old Fullerton an Anaheim, when I was a little kid. My parents watched Disneyland being built and I'm married to a Disney freak! There is a DeWalt - Porter Cable shop off of 1119 N Kraemer Blvd, Anaheim, CA 92806, (714) 414-0369. Those are franchised stores that represent Stanley Tools the mother of DeWalt, Porter Cable, Black & Decker, & Delta. They should honor the warranty, I would take it in there, with all the Amazon paperwork, and make them fix it. The warranty is for 3 years, but it gets very weak after the first year. When mine was brand new they acted like nothing was wrong, because I didn't put my foot down! The blade I have is a Freud, Delta, 80 tooth @ 15 degrees, I swapped the blade out at Depot today cut a peace of 8/4 x 10" Purpleheart, the cut was good, then 4/4 x 12" Doug Fur, the cut was good. I tried my hardest to let the saw do the work and let if glide back. When it comes to get a new blade I'll probably get the -5 degree 72 tooth by Freud. Good luck and I hope that you can get everything worked out. I also hope mine stays working

Eric


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> . *I don't know if you can rotate the tubes in their housings, but if so I'd turn one 90 degrees to put the curve in the vertical rather than horizontal plane*.





GoNavy429 said:


> * Maybe put a mark on the bar then loosen them and try a to turn the bars 1/4 turn.* This would make the bar be bent up/down as opposed to side to side. .



We have the same "theory" here! :yes:


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## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

Eric - Did you change the blade and notice a difference? I'm not sure my blade is the culprit since I swapped the Freud to the factory and still had the same issue. I'm glad yours is cutting good again, it really is a nice saw and I've gotten use to all of the settings and the way it works. If I could just get the long cuts to be as straight as the short cuts, I'd be a happy camper.

I can try to rotate the tubes, only reason i ruled it out was I used my long square, set it against the fence, and the other end against the blade face, brought the saw out and in as if making a cut and it stayed true to the square. If the tubes were damaged, I tend to think I would notice it drift from the square or butt up against it. Still, I will play with the tubes tomorrow and see if I rotate them, how the saw cuts then.


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## Dandan111 (Oct 29, 2013)

Can you adjust depth? I would score a shallow line and lay a square on that. No load ,just a line the full cutting width. Rotating those tubes will help I bet if its possible.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Dandan111 said:


> Can you adjust depth? I would score a shallow line and lay a square on that. No load ,just a line the full cutting width. Rotating those tubes will help I bet if its possible.


There is a stop between the front of unit behind the blade (in the crotch by the bevel gauge) sets a depth stop. It flips down and is a thumb screw adjust. You still pull the unit down, it just prevents it going all the way down. Nice little feature and flips back out of the way when not needed. Great for making a quick dado with multiple passes and chip it out. That is a great idea, hadn't thought to suggest it. making a thin 1/16 inch depth cut would put zero load on the blade.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

Noek said:


> Eric - Did you change the blade and notice a difference? I'm not sure my blade is the culprit since I swapped the Freud to the factory and still had the same issue. I'm glad yours is cutting good again, it really is a nice saw and I've gotten use to all of the settings and the way it works. If I could just get the long cuts to be as straight as the short cuts, I'd be a happy camper. I can try to rotate the tubes, only reason i ruled it out was I used my long square, set it against the fence, and the other end against the blade face, brought the saw out and in as if making a cut and it stayed true to the square. If the tubes were damaged, I tend to think I would notice it drift from the square or butt up against it. Still, I will play with the tubes tomorrow and see if I rotate them, how the saw cuts then.


Noek, I noticed the difference after changing the blade. But I'm not sure if it if the blade, or letting the saw do more of the work. Another thing that I should point out, that might sound kind of strange, is those were straight cuts no blocks being used as a stopper and not caring where I cut on the wood. Just, out down, and in.

Eric


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

I'm getting PO. I guess I spoke to soon.

Eric


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Anguspapa said:


> Noek, I noticed the difference after changing the blade. But I'm not sure if it if the blade, or letting the saw do more of the work. Another thing that I should point out, that might sound kind of strange, is those were straight cuts no blocks being used as a stopper and not caring where I cut on the wood. Just, out down, and in.
> 
> Eric


Blades make difference. Thin kerf blades don't have much metal, reason I'm not a big fan. Not to mention they have to work harder to make the cut. Thin kerf blades are not meant for everyday use, they are specialty blades. The only reason I use mine is for miters to get a smooth edge that I don't need to sand for glue up, other then that I use a standard 40 tooth or less blade.

edit: Just wanted to add, regardless of everyday use or specialty blades you get, if you do nothing else, try to stay with a negative hook angle. These miter saws almost require it, plus you usually get a smoother cut despite the tooth count.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

GoNavy429 said:


> Blades make difference. Thin kerf blades don't have much metal, reason I'm not a big fan. Not to mention they have to work harder to make the cut. Thin kerf blades are not meant for everyday use, they are specialty blades. The only reason I use mine is for miters to get a smooth edge that I don't need to sand for glue up, other then that I use a standard 40 tooth or less blade. edit: Just wanted to add, regardless of everyday use or specialty blades you get, if you do nothing else, try to stay with a negative hook angle. These miter saws almost require it, plus you usually get a smoother cut despite the tooth count.


I use my saw manly for hobby purposes. I'm most commonly cutting hard woods but will cut all. These are examples of what I do. 



































If I may ask what blade would you use? Thanks

Eric


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

GoNavy429 said:


> Blades make difference.  Thin kerf blades don't have much metal, reason I'm not a big fan. Not to mention they have to work harder to make the cut. Thin kerf blades are not meant for everyday use, they are specialty blades..


What?? Where would you have gotten that from? 

Because thin kerf blades are roughy 30% narrower, they remove much less wood from the kerf and thereby move through the wood easier.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> What?? Where would you have gotten that from?
> 
> Because thin kerf blades are roughy 30% narrower, they remove much less wood from the kerf and thereby move through the wood easier.


Tooth count makes it work harder, your right should have added that, but since we were talking about the fine cut blades tried to point out between the standard blade and these specialty blades is what I trying to say, and why I don't use them for everyday use. I am not a fan of thin kerf because they are so thin, probably a personal choice. I still think it's a marketing thing, let use less metal and charge more..lol...there might be some science to it, but I ain't buying it, don't get me wrong there some really good thin kerf blades, but there many more cheap one that warp at a drop of the hat. lmao...I've got an old ACE hardware warped thin kerf blade hanging on my peg board right now just to remind me when ever I think about buying some cheap blade ever again.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Sure, but crappy regular kerf blades have issues too. I have a thin kerf blade that does the majority of my table saw work. I wouldn't think of trying to rip 3 inch thick oak on my saw with a full kerf blade...a thin kerf will do it...but it still isn't easy. 

There are a lot of guys that use thin kerf blades as the go to blades....they aren't really specialty any more


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## Dandan111 (Oct 29, 2013)

I went to a little bigger kerf on my delta miter box. It's a 50 tooth oldham woodworker. I can tell a big difference just getting the rpm up and stopped after cutting. Almost to much blade for my delta.
Those thin kerfs are good for low power and that's all I have around here.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> Sure, but crappy regular kerf blades have issues too. I have a thin kerf blade that does the majority of my table saw work. I wouldn't think of trying to rip 3 inch thick oak on my saw with a full kerf blade...a thin kerf will do it...but it still isn't easy.
> 
> There are a lot of guys that use thin kerf blades as the go to blades....they aren't really specialty any more


Oh ya table blade way different then miter saw. But I agree with ya'll I probably shouldn't judge these newer blades, been awhile since I got a new one. I just still remember when that old ace bit the dust on my RAS which this DW717 replace it and my old chicago electric chop..lol..man I was cross cutting some treated 2x4's and that thing just went, starting vibrating smoke every where, scared the you know what of me. I don't think I stopped shaking for half an hour...lol...haven't like thin kerf since. Buddy of mine talked me into the freud, and I do like it, but only use it when I need too. So I should probably restate my statement to cheap blade and especially cheap thin kerf.


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## GoNavy429 (Oct 7, 2013)

Anguspapa said:


> If I may ask what blade would you use? Thanks
> 
> Eric


That Freud blade you mentioned earlier would be a good choice, but I noticed in the first pic you would need to do some ripping and putting a rip blade on a miter saw is just a bad idea. I have never tried a rip cut with my freud, so I can't comment on the results you might get. I know it sounds tempting to rip on your miter with a short piece under 12 inch. I have never tried it. I did on RAS years ago...lol...when I didn't know the difference between ripping and cross cutting. You can do it, but it's not going to come out as good as table saw with a good rip blade.


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

GoNavy429 said:


> That Freud blade you mentioned earlier would be a good choice, but I noticed in the first pic you would need to do some ripping and putting a rip blade on a miter saw is just a bad idea. I have never tried a rip cut with my freud, so I can't comment on the results you might get. I know it sounds tempting to rip on your miter with a short piece under 12 inch. I have never tried it. I did on RAS years ago...lol...when I didn't know the difference between ripping and cross cutting. You can do it, but it's not going to come out as good as table saw with a good rip blade.


The ripping I use a 24 tooth blade by Diablo, on a portable table saw. I know it's not good but sometime I get lazy rip with my compound miter, but I also make sure it's safe. I still have 10 fingers and want to keep it that way. lol Thanks again.

Eric


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## glass (Aug 17, 2013)

Send the saw back. The blade is not parallel with the bars. So as you do a full sliding cut there is a slight binding even if you have used a square to adjust the saw. There is no fix for this. To verify this take a 12" board and clamp it down. Than full pull the saw out and start a cut than lift the head up and push it back all the way to the fence and make another slight cut. Than take a square and see if the 2 partial cuts line up.


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