# Teak oil not dry after a month



## stevet (May 26, 2020)

I have a 3 in thick slab of black walnut made into a coffee table that over the course of a week and dozens of coats soaked up two quarts worth of Watco Teak oil into the grain before showing a sheen on the surface. I left it to dry for month (indoors @ 70'F) before returning to sand it. The coat was still a little bit sticky so i applied mineral spirits and sanded it down a few times expecting it to dry. The surface is still ever so slightly tacky after another day. Is there a solution to get this Teak oil to fully dry out if a month didn't do the trick?


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

welcome to the forum:



stevet said:


> over the course of a week and dozens of coats soaked up two quarts worth of Teak oil into the grain before showing a sheen on the surface.


not knowing what brand or type of teak oil you used, what do the directions
say on the can for application instructions ??

.


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## stevet (May 26, 2020)

The Watco Teak oil says to flood the surface, let it sit for 30 minutes, then wipe it dry. Reapply and soak for another 15 minutes and wipe it dry. Ready to use in 8 - 10 hours.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

I thought someone would answer you before now.


> The Watco Teak oil says to flood the surface, let it sit for 30 minutes, then wipe it dry.
> Reapply and soak for another 15 minutes and wipe it dry.
> Ready to use in 8 - 10 hours.


*that is only two coats:*

I should also have asked; how old is the wood slab and how long
has it been processed into a slab. (is the moisture content known).

here is my concern: 
over the course of a week, you applied dozens of coats which soaked up two quarts 
worth of Watco Teak oil. the instructions state 2-3 coats "should be" sufficient.
if the wood is in extreme distress, 4-6 coats may be required, 12 hours apart.
in my uneducated guess, you have flooded the wood to the point that the inside
will not dry or cure. it is sort of like you have created a skin in a paint can.
the floating skin appears to be solid. but underneath, it is still liquid.

if you google: "teak oil won't dry" you will find all kinds documentations of the
same issue. and most are different with the type of wood they used.

not to drag this out, but, I think you applied way too many coats in too short
of a time period. continually wiping the surface with a solvent such as mineral spirits,
naphtha or xylene "could" remove the surface oil and let more fresh oil rise to the
surface. but, I have no idea how long it would take before it is "dry to the touch".
I would suggest you call the Watco help line listed on the can for assistance
right from the source. and explain in detail, the type of wood, moisture content,
the climatic conditions of when you applied it.
years ago, I had a very similar issue with varnish. I called the help desk.
the technician said I had "vehicle entrapment". which is what I explained up top.
the skin dries, trapping the fluid inside the wood. I used some pretty extreme
measures with hot solvents to get the project back on track.
maybe one of the Chemical Engineers will be along soon to provide more
possibilities of how to correct your issues.

.


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## stevet (May 26, 2020)

I've sanded it down to 80 grit and back up to 320, with two washes of mineral spirits between each grit. It appears to by drying out as the sticky has bonded onto the discs I've discarded. I'll continue to wash it with mineral spirits. Is there something that might be stronger than MS?


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

acetone & lacquer thinner is much stronger than mineral spirits.
MUST BE USED OUTSIDE with adequate ventilation.
read the dangers of spontaneous combustion of rags, paint,
oils, thinners and cleaners and follow the warnings carefully.

looking forward to seeing your completed project.

.


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

Here he was talking about un-boiled linseed oil. 

"Apply once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for the rest of your life! Following this method (which can’t be rushed) it takes about 6 months to get a piece looking good." 

George Utley


I've never been a fan of Tung or Watco for exactly the problems that you are experiencing. I think that the problem is that the thinners or flash off components tend to change or seep out as the product ages. 

My advice is to remove as much as you can with naphtha. And then try a fresh can of Watco or Tung. Or my favorite, MinWax Antique Oil Finish. Generally I'll apply two or three coats of MAOF with a day or two between coats. Then allow the piece to out-gas in an area that won't offend the boss of the house. When the out-gas process is done, wax with a good paste wax. You don't say where you are, geographically, but from Southern California you may have to take you piece to Nevada or Arizona to finish it.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

How big is the slab and is it end grain on the surface?


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## stevet (May 26, 2020)

The slab is 2' x 5' x 3", live edges and face grain. 

After bringing the piece up to 1000 grit with a dozen mineral spirit washes and two very thin applications with Watco Teak I've noticed an uneven sheen that has occurred on the walnut, which I noticed on previous applications. The majority of it is matte but on a few lines along the grain and on a knot it is shiny, which was not the case back down at 240, I presume it is the residual Watco Teak.


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## stevet (May 26, 2020)

I have stripped the remaining finish off effectively. In the future I will use a pore filler for the live edges of wood as they continue to seep small amounts of soaked teak oil after stripping. I will be refinishing with Tung oil finish after the piece dries.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Steve - what is the history of the wood ?
when was the tree cut down, how old is the slab, how was it dried.
when was it dried, for how long did it dry, yada yada yada.
this info could also play a part in your issues.

.


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## stevet (May 26, 2020)

Slab was cut 10 years ago, sat in the mill for 2 years outdoors in CA, kiln dried for 1 month, finished, furniture stored indoors for 3 years, resurfaced for edge warping, stored indoor two more years, moisture content of <1%.


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## Gunnar1952 (Mar 28, 2021)

I have an antique oak library table, circa 1870, that with a top that looked tired. The original surface had sheen in some areas, not in others, and the grain (quarter sawn oak) didn't pop. I cleaned the surface and applied three coats of teak oil (Watco) to the top, it looked great. Despite following directions, etc. I ended up with an oily "film" that easily smeared when I dragged my finger over it. Tried additional wiping, using a space heater, etc., to no avail. The surface wasn't sticky or tacky, but it did have this weirdness happening. Not sure if the following would help with the kinds of problems that some have described here - I know that mineral spirits was recommended - but I put denatured alcohol on a rag, wiped the surface down, and the problem was gone. The sheen dulled somewhat but that easily smudged oily film had vanished, and the color and evening effects that came from the teak oil were still there. The surface was now completely dry to the touch. Rather than risking a repeat problem by applying another coat of teak oil, I applied a beeswax paste polish made by Mintml. It polished up nicely, brought out the grain, and dried hard. Again, this is an indoor piece, but the denatured alcohol in my case did the trick.


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

Just a guess but if you applied it over the existing finish that could be the problem. No way to soak into the wood.


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## Gunnar1952 (Mar 28, 2021)

Hi, that never occurred to me, I think you're right. I made the mistake of equating teak oil to a "tung oil finish" and forgot that the former was meant to soak into the wood, not stay on the surface. I did check online for information re: using teak oil. Surprising how many websites only say to use it on "clean, dry wood", nothing about not using it over existing finishes.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

All of these problems would be avoided if you used solvent based lacquer or Pre-cat lacquer. With the proper additives, pre-cat will look and feel like an oil finish. 
You would be finished with the lacquer finishing system in well under an hour including cleaning your guns and equipment and deliver the next day for light service.


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