# Needing assistance in picking a finish for this walnut table top



## ~CONNER~ (Oct 26, 2010)

I would like some constuctive advice AND/OR ideas on finishing this walnut table top. I would like to try and stay away from a bar top look such as aeurathane as much as possible, but please let me know your thoughts. If the picture doesn't come through, i have it posted on my profile page as well.. 

Thanks to all in advance!


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

I´m a big fan of old proven techniques so I would go for oiling. I would use a fine linseed oil. (Production of linseed oil is is a science of it´s own, like olive oil, but I won´t get into that here).
The raw linseed oil is the best choice here as it penetrates the wood very well. Bare in mind though that this job requires patience.
I apply the oil generously on the surface and let it be for about 20 minutes. Then you will probably find that the oil on some spots have drawn in copletely into the wood while others are still wet. Wipe of the wet oil and repeat the procedure with focus on the dry spots.
Keep doing this until the whole surface stays wet after 20 min. Then carefully wipe off the surface and leave the tabletop for a week or two. Then repeat the same procedure and wait another week. After that apply oil to the surface and sand it with a 600 grit wet sandpaper (apply oil continously so the sandpaper don´t get clogged). If you are a perfectionist end up with a 1000 grit paper.
Wipe carefully and leave it for a couple of weeks. This will give you a lovely finish.

Warning! Rags and paper soaked with linseed oil might self-ignate so be careful about where you put them.

An alternative to linseed oil is what we in Sweden call "Chinese Wood Oil" wich is a mixture of tung tree oil and linseed oil. It penetrates even better than the linseed oil, but is more expensive.

Good luck:smile:


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

if your going to use this as a table, i would use a danish oil for better protection. you can make your own as i do, or purchace it.
equal parts of blo-turpintine-and a thin bodied varnish. the turpintine will help with penatration and hardening of the oil, and the varnish will give a durible surface. this is the way i do all my antique finishes


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## ~CONNER~ (Oct 26, 2010)

Is the danish and linseed both finishes that will need to be reapplied periodically? Speaking in terms of durability and maint. etc. 

Thanks for the suggestions!


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

yes yrly maint. is always need for an oil finish. but thats better than fixing a film coat that has gone bad or white rings from a cup of hot coffee or pot. scratches and dents are also easier to fix.


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## ~CONNER~ (Oct 26, 2010)

Thanks for the insight guys!


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I have to go along with the oil suggestion. I would use Minwax Antique Oil Finish.

It basically contains a resin and BLO. Two coats and the table will be rather well protected. HOWEVER if this is a dining table, then you may want to put a more protective finish over the MAOF. 

The advantage to MAOF is that it really pops the color and grain.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I might start off with a 50/50 mix of BLO and mineral spirits if I wanted some amber added, or the same mix with pure Tung Oil for a clear application. I'd make a couple of applications just to get some penetration.

Then I'd make a wiping version of an interior oil base varnish and MS, or with oil base polyurethane...no oil added. Apply 4-5 coats.












 





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## ~CONNER~ (Oct 26, 2010)

I'll need to do a little bit of research and do some shopping because i've never done much experimenting with the oils. 
When you speak of making a wiping version with MS and oil base polyurethane, is that mixture 50/50 as well?


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

its a 3 part mix. equal parts blo-ms ( although i prefure turpintine ), and varnish. you want the blo in your mix to help with penitration and make the varnish flow and less tendancy to streak (slower dry time). without it your just diluting the varnish and your penitration wont be as good. 
or just make it easy on your self and pick up a danish oil like watco.
best thing to do is practice all the dif. tip's on some scrap and learn what works best for you


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Beware that BLO takes a bit longer to dry and fully cure.

I used a 1/3 mix of BLO, MS and varnish for a project. It worked great except that I had to wait about 10 days between coats and and about 14 days cure before a poly coat.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

i agree 100% on the blo's slow drying time. thats why i use turpintine instead of ms. the turp wil help with better penetration and it dries and hardens the blo. this is the recipe used by my ggg grandfather back in 1800's. ive been doing antique restoration for 30 yrs and this is my #1 finish. you should still about 3 weeks for curing b4 putting on a poly ( witch i never do ). after cure if you take an indianor, carnauba
paist wax mechanicly buff the surface you can bring out a semi gloss sheen. i like the natural oil look myself.
now you wanna talk about sloooooooooow dry/cure time use 100% tung oil, not the stuff that you get in stores witch have very little tung oil in it. you need to wait 3 weeks in between coats, and it take sometimes2-3 months to cure. very nice finish in the end though.


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## ~CONNER~ (Oct 26, 2010)

You guys have given some great ideas.... 
I propose another question though... This is going to be used as a dining table, would there be any real benefits in applying a poly after the oil, or would it be best to just leave as an oil finish? 
Pros / Cons for the poly finish over the oil......


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

you can put a poly over the oil, people do. however im against it for several reasons.an oil finish done right has completly sealed your wood with plenty of protection. water will bead and not penitrate. now puting a film coat ( poly ) on the surface invites problems down the road. white rings ( caused by moisture created between the poly and surface ) can be heart breaking after all that work. dings and scratches on a poly are very noticable and usually takes a funiture repair person to fix so you cant see it. with an oil finish usually a sand and re oil tixes it.
a poly can also muddy up the natural grain.i like to let the wood breath.
"even though the tree is dead, the wood still breaths"


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