# Problem with hand rubbing shellac



## Chicago Caroline (Mar 18, 2013)

I'm trying (for the first time) to rub out a shellac finish. It is very shiny and I'm trying to obtain a smooth satin finish. I let it "cure" for two weeks in a 70 degree environment. I was using a method suggest by American Woodworker. Starting with 400 grit, rubbing with 0000 steel wood dipped in soapy water. Result? a milky looking haze. Any advice for me?

Thanks,

Caroline


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## jgilfor (Jan 25, 2013)

Don't know about soapy water, but:

I thin my shellac way down with DNA (to about a 1/2 lb cut I would guess), and rub it on as you mentioned. Once the desired number of coats have been done and dried completely (couple days), you can de-shine it with pumice in mineral oil or a bit of lemon or walnut oil. Wipe it clean when done. ALternatively, you can do the 0000 steel wool thing too. Use an oil for rubbing lubricant. Rememnber that it can take several weeks for the shellac to fully crosslink/cure, although it is dry and hard to the touch after a few minutes (especially if thinned). The full water-proofness (just mae that word up) of shellac is not achieved until after this time period (couple weeks) has elapsed. Before that time, you can get clouding.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You may not have enough tung oil on the wood to do that kind of hand rubbing. Depending on brand it may take a dozen or more coats to have a full emulsion. Anyway for a satin finish it would be easier to purchase "Shellac Flat" It is a flattening agent you add to the shellac to make a satin sheen like satin polyurethane has, with no hand rubbing involved. 

You could also apply more tung oil. After sanding with 400 grit the finish will apply a whole lot smoother to where maybe next time you only need the steel wool to knock down the shine.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Caroline, shellac is a natural product and only comes in one sheen: glossy. Like Steve said, to soften that you can use a flattening agent, or as you did: an abrasive. I'm not sure what the soapy water does; a lubricant I suppose. That's useful, but mineral oil may have been a little easier to manage...it wouldn't make the steel wool rust, and cleans off easily once done. But you also mention smooth, it's easier to pad a shellac surface smooth, then deal with the sheen. Shellac doesn't "cure" per se. it dries. The alcohol evaporates and the resin simply hardens. I think at this point I would try to get the haze off the finish. That should be as easy as some more padding, mabe with just alcohol. Your pad would be a piece of lint free cloth (linen is always suggested, but an old tee shirt would work) wrapped around something that acts as a reservoir for the DNA, a piece of wool is best. Charge the pad with alcohol, and start rubbing. The alcohol will re dissolve in the presence of the DNA, and the padding action should "body" it out to smooth. Once you get that done, go back to reducing the sheen, this would best be done on some test pieces, but the steel wool, or sandpaper (much finer than what you had, maybe start with 1000 grit), or a synthetic pad like a scotchbrite and try to get whatever appearance you want. Use wet/dry sandpaper and water. Try the others without a lube first, then add one if you feel the need. Good luck with your effort!


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## Chicago Caroline (Mar 18, 2013)

Thanks for the help and suggestions. Very much appreciated - can't call this project "complete" in it's current state so I will heed your suggestions and hope to fix my problem.

Caroline


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Hand rubbing can be very difficult especially using steel wool or scotch brite pads. The 21st century method is to use Abralon Pads made by Mirka on an air powered DA sander or buffer. I start with 1000 then go to 2000 for a satin sheen 4000 for semi gloss and you can then buff after the 4000 for a high gloss finish. 

I have done just about every method of hand rubbing from the old pumice, rottenstone, tripoli method to wool wax or rubbing oils etc, etc. I find the abralon pads do the very best rub out I have ever done and much easier. It still does look rubbed out but that is a look many people love. Especially the tactile feel of a rubbed finish.


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