# glue- sorry if it's a recurring topic



## pete_d (Nov 20, 2014)

Hi, 

Can someone please tell me what type of glue I would buy if I wanted to join wood with glue and screws and I never want it to come apart again without ripping the wood. I'm working with 8-ply maple & African mahogany. Cost is not an object. I don't care if it's hazardous to the skin or eyes. 

I need the real McCoy.
I want the Super Super Polydent. 

Thanks.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Titebond - II or III depending on working time and water resistance wanted.

http://www.titebond.com/woodworking_glues.aspx


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

This is a pretty sticky subject. But I use Titebond for nearly everything, except guitars when I use hot hide glue. As suggested previously, go to Titebond's website for the best information regarding their selections. On indoor furniture i might use I or II depending on how much open time I need.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

First of all no adhesive is forever. If the application is kept dry any carpenters glue would be a good choice. If you have an application that is exposed to high humidity then a glue like titebond II would be a better choice or if you need one that is waterproof then one like titebond III would be better.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Woodenhorse said:


> This is a pretty sticky subject./QUOTE]
> 
> That was a hilariously horrible pun.
> 
> ...


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## Steve S. (Jul 11, 2014)

I just looked....I have 7 different types of Franklin Titebond glues.....hmmmm, probably need to use some up. Actually, I did have 8, finished of the Titebond II. I took to the habit a while ago of not trying to save cents per oz. by buying large size glues...I really like having fresh glue. Latest acquisition is an Instant Glue(think Super Glue). When I called customer service to talk about the effectiveness of the spray-on activator, he offered, and I received, a free can. I'm getting ready to adhere routed molding, about 11/16 x 1/2 to a paneled face frame. Frame is Red oak, panels are cedar with purple heart veneer, the moldings are purple heart hardwood. Absolutely no way to clamp. I have two sacrificial smaller sized face frame with panel mock-ups. Going to try the Franklin molding glue, first choice, and then test the Instant Glue. Supposedly you can spray the activator right on top of the wood and it absorbs into the wood and onto the glue. Yeah, I am skeptical too. Seems like it would evaporate way before it penetrates. 

Use Hide glue for adhering temporary 1/2 baltic birch plywood blocks for clamping blocks. After clamping, i chisel down to the last ply, soak with warm water, and remove with chisel and then sand. Just got done doing that with some fairly complex mitered bracket feet for this Blanket Chest

Anyways, indoors I always used the original, sometimes still do but Franklin Titebond III is the latest and greatest. Do not use it to make wood putty, the brown color of the glue ruins the color match, lol.

Hard to go wrong with Franklin products, they have been choice of most woodworkers I know for a long time. Titebond III and oh yeah, don't clamp it so hard you squeeze all the glue out. You can get a lot of torque from a pipe clamp or parallel clamp, way more than would be required to squeeze out most all the glue. Clamp till tight, leave for more than the recommended 30 minutes....like a few hours, and don't stress for 2 days.

Good luck,

Steve


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*best wood glue?*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43n-PP2VmLk


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## pete_d (Nov 20, 2014)

Thanks to all for your input. I know that you can read up on anything online, but there's nothing like getting the information straight from the horse's hoof... I mean mouth.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I use titebond 2 on almost everything. The stuff is great!! Titebond 3 for outdoor stuff.


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## pete_d (Nov 20, 2014)

Steve S. said:


> Titebond III and oh yeah, don't clamp it so hard you squeeze all the glue out. You can get a lot of torque from a pipe clamp or parallel clamp, way more than would be required to squeeze out most all the glue. Clamp till tight, leave for more than the recommended 30 minutes....like a few hours, and don't stress for 2 days.
> 
> Steve,
> 
> ...


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

A good glue joint doesn't need screws. A glued joint is stronger than the wood itself if done right.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> A good glue joint doesn't need screws. A glued joint is stronger than the wood itself if done right.


might be a true statement, but "stronger than the wood" is an awfully big caveat. a screw will still strengthen the joint, steel > wood.

Assuming the joint needs that strength of course...


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

used the hide glue to glue up a project with many parts, for the slower setting time. worked ok until i got the project back- glue joints had failed from I think too much moisture where it was.

won't use that again. need to find another slow setter.


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

I only use Titebond Original, unless of course I will be building a boat.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

TimPa said:


> used the hide glue to glue up a project with many parts, for the slower setting time. worked ok until i got the project back- glue joints had failed from I think too much moisture where it was.
> 
> won't use that again. need to find another slow setter.


Titebond III has a 20 minute or so working time. OK for darker woods, or where glue joints don't show, or parts to be stained dark. Waterproof too.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

bauerbach said:


> might be a true statement, but "stronger than the wood" is an awfully big caveat. a screw will still strengthen the joint, steel > wood.
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming the joint needs that strength of course...



Small steel piece....vs huge surface area of wood being glued. Also that steel is only as strong as the wood holding its threads.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

TimPa said:


> used the hide glue to glue up a project with many parts, for the slower setting time. worked ok until i got the project back- glue joints had failed from I think too much moisture where it was.
> 
> won't use that again. need to find another slow setter.


Titebond 2 extend. All the fun of titebond 2 with an open work time of 30 minutes, if I'm remembering correctly


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> Small steel piece....vs huge surface area of wood being glued. Also that steel is only as strong as the wood holding its threads.


yep, I dont disagree. depends on the situation. Sometimes there isnt alot of surface area to glue, or the leverage on the joint could be an issue. 

Ive broken glue joints (on purpose), and yeah, it tears the surface of the wood. Ive never manage to break a joint that had a screw in it.

Im talking about butt joints, or even dado joints. I wouldnt expect an issue with a finger joint or something.


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## pete_d (Nov 20, 2014)

bauerbach said:


> yep, I dont disagree. depends on the situation. Sometimes there isnt alot of surface area to glue, or the leverage on the joint could be an issue.
> 
> Ive broken glue joints (on purpose), and yeah, it tears the surface of the wood. Ive never manage to break a joint that had a screw in it.
> 
> Im talking about butt joints, or even dado joints. I wouldnt expect an issue with a finger joint or something.


Yeah guys,

I am afraid in this instance the screws are necessary because I have a tiered lap joint with cantilevered loading elements. I was going to screw the top one and just glue the bottom because when the connection is screwed it will pull on the dowel creating a downward force on that lap. The force on the slotted piece is purely lateral.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Screw whatever you like....but I maintain that proper designs, construction, and materials yield better results with out mechanical fasteners. And yes...I still screw things together for shop jigs and cabinets, but not on fine furniture.


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