# The Fates Finally Caught Up With Me



## ppd417 (Jan 22, 2018)

Yesterday I needed to mill a piece of 0.75" hard maple down to 0.375" for a domino set I was making.
I set my DeWalt planer to cut very shallow cuts, no more than 0.03125" (1/32") per pass. I also used
a piece of scrap pine to follow the maple board through the planer to help minimize snipe. Turned on the planer and
started to send the pieces through. I heard the knives starting to cut the maple and I was just about to 
take my hands away when suddenly the maple kicked back hard into the pine scrap and into my left
hand hitting my left ring finger very hard causing a small cut that bled profusely. I wasn't concerned about the cut,
I was concerned that I couldn't move my finger and had no feeling from the first knuckle to the tip.
A trip to our local urgent care confirmed that the phalanx of my ring finger had been fractured and crushed.
I am now waiting to see an orthopedist to see if I'll need surgery.

I've sent hundreds of BF through my planer without any problem.
The maple board was clear and free of any imperfections so I can't understand why this happened. 

I have been a wood worker since I first took woodshop in 7th grade, and besides the occasional cuts and splinters,
I have never had a major injury until now. I pride myself on safety and never take chances or shortcuts that could
injure me. 

I guess it was just my turn...


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

ppd417 said:


> Yesterday I needed to mill a piece of 0.75" hard maple down to 0.375" for a domino set I was making.
> I set my DeWalt planer to cut very shallow cuts, no more than 0.03125" (1/32") per pass. I also used
> a piece of scrap pine to follow the maple board through the planer to help minimize snipe. Turned on the planer and
> started to send the pieces through. I heard the knives starting to cut the maple and I was just about to
> ...


Sounds like the leading edge of the board lifted somehow, or was curled up. Other possibilities are dirty or worn feed roller, or an issue with feed roller tension springs. 

Hope you recover from the injury.


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## ppd417 (Jan 22, 2018)

shoot summ said:


> Sounds like the leading edge of the board lifted somehow, or was curled up. Other possibilities are dirty or worn feed roller, or an issue with feed roller tension springs.
> 
> Hope you recover from the injury.


When my paw heals I will look at everything you suggested.
Thanks!


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

ppd417 said:


> When my paw heals I will look at everything you suggested.
> Thanks!


I know it is a bit out of scope, but this is another reason I like the Shelix style cutter heads. Not 100% that it would have not happened with one, but much less chance when there isn't a single(one of 3) blade hitting the wood for the cut. The inserts on the Shelix are about 1" each and only one at a time will be contacting that leading edge.


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## ppd417 (Jan 22, 2018)

shoot summ said:


> I know it is a bit out of scope, but this is another reason I like the Shelix style cutter heads. Not 100% that it would have not happened with one, but much less chance when there isn't a single(one of 3) blade hitting the wood for the cut. The inserts on the Shelix are about 1" each and only one at a time will be contacting that leading edge.


Good point. A Shelix cutter head has been on my wish list for a while, I think now it'll get a bit more priority.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Still, it should not have happened! For straight blade planers, I recommend sending the work through at an angle. this does two things. It equalizes the wear across the entire blade width and it allows a smaller area of initial contact with the first cut. Just develop this habit, whether it would have prevented your kickback .... who knows?
Another tip is not to push with a stiff finger, hand or wrist. Use a squeeze grip, so if the piece comes back, it will slide between your fingers harmlessly.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

Ouch! I hope you recover quickly and well.

When you have a chance maybe post a photo of the maple, maybe it'll be a clue for what happened.


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## AJ. (Feb 22, 2012)

I'm sorry this happened!
On a positive note: that's the push I needed to order MicroJig pusher block thingies.

I was also going to order the "10 Million Dollar Stick" yet it's out of stock at the moment.


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## johnedp34 (Jun 30, 2016)

I personally would buy a butchers glove made out of fine chain.
Will protect against cuts etc. Available from Amazon.
johnep


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

How long was your wood? If it was too short it can and most times will kick back. The feed roller will push down on the rear of the board and raise the front of the board making it come in really heavy against the cutters. There goes a nasty kick back, big time.


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## AJ. (Feb 22, 2012)

johnedp34 said:


> I personally would buy a butchers glove made out of fine chain.
> Will protect against cuts etc. Available from Amazon.
> johnep


This seems like a good idea, yet I wonder how much 'feel' one would loose by having that metal between one and the workpiece.

Interesting.


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## johnedp34 (Jun 30, 2016)

Other videos also on net.
johnep


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Gloves are for gardening not woodworking or around any machinery for that matter.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

FrankC said:


> Gloves are for gardening not woodworking or around any machinery for that matter.


Alot of people wear them . At one time I considered fingerless gloves to help with warmth I the winter in shops,but I couldn't get use to them...


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

FrankC said:


> Gloves are for gardening not woodworking or around any machinery for that matter.


I keep supple leather work gloves in the shop. I wear them mostly for installing and removing bandsaw blades. I wear them when gripping and moving large heavy boards to avoid splinters. I wear them when installing or removing router bits. Sometimes I wear them when handling table saw blades, especially dado stacks. 

I wear disposable gloves when I am handling chemicals or finishes. 

I don't wear gloves when operating power tools, which is what I think @FrankC meant in his statement.


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## Rider351 (Aug 11, 2018)

ppd417 said:


> Yesterday I needed to mill a piece of 0.75" hard maple down to 0.375" for a domino set I was making.
> I set my DeWalt planer to cut very shallow cuts, no more than 0.03125" (1/32") per pass. I also used
> a piece of scrap pine to follow the maple board through the planer to help minimize snipe. Turned on the planer and
> started to send the pieces through. I heard the knives starting to cut the maple and I was just about to
> ...


You will fine!!! Keep thinking positive and smelling the fresh cut pine


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

@ppd417 how is your finger? I guess by now you've had surgery and there is a pin in it?


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## Scurvy (Apr 12, 2013)

From your post I cannot tell if you were attempting to plane the board down by itself (with the snipe chaser) or if you used a planer sled.

When I get down to below 3/4” thickness, I will use a sled to support and raise up the workpiece so there is better contact with the rollers and less snipe, plus my sled has a ledger strip at the back end that would have prevented your kickback.


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## ppd417 (Jan 22, 2018)

Bob Bengal said:


> @ppd417 how is your finger? I guess by now you've had surgery and there is a pin in it?


Surprisingly, the ortho didn't want to do surgery....yet. He aligned the bones (that was fun...) and applied a heavy duty splint. I go back to see him
in a week. If it's not healing correctly, then surgery.


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## ppd417 (Jan 22, 2018)

Scurvy said:


> From your post I cannot tell if you were attempting to plane the board down by itself (with the snipe chaser) or if you used a planer sled.
> 
> When I get down to below 3/4” thickness, I will use a sled to support and raise up the workpiece so there is better contact with the rollers and less snipe, plus my sled has a ledger strip at the back end that would have prevented your kickback.


Was planning the board by itself with a snipe chaser.
I think now I'll make a sled.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

ppd417 said:


> Was planning the board by itself with a snipe chaser.
> I think now I'll make a sled.


Best wishes on the ortho and the finger healing!


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## ppd417 (Jan 22, 2018)

BigCountry79 said:


> Best wishes on the ortho and the finger healing!


Thanks!


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

ppd417 said:


> Surprisingly, the ortho didn't want to do surgery....yet. He aligned the bones (that was fun...) and applied a heavy duty splint. I go back to see him
> in a week. If it's not healing correctly, then surgery.


How are you? Too soon for the bone to be 100% but I hope it is one piece again.


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## ppd417 (Jan 22, 2018)

Bob Bengal said:


> How are you? Too soon for the bone to be 100% but I hope it is one piece again.


Bob,,,,
Thanks for the follow up, much appreciated.
Been to the ortho a couple times and he decided against surgery, he aligned the bones in my finger and had me wear a rigid plastic splint until healed. Went back a couple weeks ago and he said all looks good.

I got lucky and haven’t lost my fingernail, but it’s still bruised and the tip of my finger is still a sensitive and you’re right, it’s not 100% yet, but I can live with that for now. The real test will be when winter comes, I’m sure I’m going to feel it!


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I managed to catch my hand behind the hammer portion of a 5 pound slide hammer and lost a nice section of skin down to the muscle in the meaty part below my left pinky finger..No fun at all, but it is what it is. I was replacing the rear bearings once again since the last ones were just slightly under sized and were grinding and creating too much heat when I drove the truck. I went to the Ford dealer for the right bearings this time and it's all put back together the way it should have been last time around. I finished the job with a hand and a half. Man! That wasn't the funnest job I've ever done, but it's done. Now I'm just waiting for it to heal hopefully with no serious infection. I now can replace bearings in the rear end in less than 4 hours with a bum hand even..probably quicker with two good hands. 
It's kind of put woodworking on the shelf for awhile, but I could work with it if I had to.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

sorry you went thru that - fwiw and info for others.....
bearings 'envelope' sizes are standardized - i.e. outer diameter, bore diameter, width.
((tapered roller bearings....different issues - n/a to this discussion.))

however, the internal clearance (typically represented as C-1 {tightest} to C-4 {loosest}) comes into play as bearings are pressed into the housings / on the shaft. these difference are classified in microns - you're not going to double check that with a tape measure....

OEM parts have their own numbers and the internal clearances are not indicated.
meaning that an industry std (example) 6208 - although it might 'fit' the pocket - may not live long where the mounting reduces the internal clearance to the point the balls cause spalling/damage to the races ( = "were grinding")


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