# Track saw vs. track saw systems



## bigarm (Mar 11, 2015)

Just bought my Domino and can cross that off the list. Now to research my next purchase, a track saw or , for lack of better name, a track saw "system" such as the EZ Smart or True-Trac. Don't really have the room to rip full size plywood in my little shop so now do it in an open bay with my DeWalt cordless saw (which I like, especially the blade side) and a clamped straight edge. It works okay, but would eventually like something better. For those of you with a track saw or other tell me your experiences. Would you purchase the same system again? Do you like it? Etc?


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## asevereid (Apr 15, 2012)

I love my track saw. 
I've been using one for close to a year now (for reno work and trim jobs), and it's been indispensable for cutting and ripping on site. 
Mind you, I haven't had to handle very many 4x8 sheets with it yet, but with a good cut table and some planning, you can accomplish most tasks that you would with a table saw in nearly as much time. 
The only issue I've come across is making sure that any sheet goods I rip and crosscut are at a perfect 90° on the corners... But that's an operator error, not an equipment issue.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you don't need one*



bigarm said:


> Just bought my Domino and can cross that off the list. Now to research my next purchase, a track saw or , for lack of better name, a track saw "system" such as the EZ Smart or True-Trac.* Don't really have the room to rip full size plywood in my little shop so now do it in an open bay with my DeWalt cordless saw (which I like, especially the blade side) and a clamped straight edge.* It works okay, but would eventually like something better. For those of you with a track saw or other tell me your experiences. Would you purchase the same system again? Do you like it? Etc?



All you really need is a "zero clearance" saw guide. There are You Tube videos on how to make one using a straight cut off from a sheet of plywood or hardboard. The zero clearance is made by a final cut along the straight edge removing a narrow strip off the guide. That's all a track saw is, a zero clearance straight edge guide with a raised track to keep the saw on it and a base that sits on the track.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thddTmC6nr4

The other aspect is that a track saw "plunges" when you make the cut, a feature I don't find all that necessary. I just sold a complete Festool TS75 saw, tracks and MFT table which I bought years back a had never used. I got almost all my money back out of it.

Another aspect is portability. For your small shop it's about the same only you aren't taking it to a job site, you are just lacking space for a table saw. You can use your Dewalt or you can get a corded circular saw, but it must be dedicated to what ever track you build, since the final cut is what determines the zero clearance offset.

This design is more sophisticated and has the raised "track" but it's a shop built version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80FHejVbm5E


Finally, you always have to measure in from both ends to get a parallel cut to the initial edge. That's not all that bad, but a necessary step using any track or guide for a circular saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiSz7kPwFY0


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

I don't have one, so take this for what it's worth, but one thing woodnthings didn't mention was dust collection. Dust ports are rare on circular saws, and always included on track saws. In a small shop, it's a nice thing to not have to stop all the time to clean up, and your lungs will thank you. 

You've got a Domino, if you stay with Festool you can also run their routers and jigsaws on the same tracks. 

I saw that Tru Trac or whatever it is in a store, looked pretty hokey.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Mort has made a good point about dust collection, if that is important then I guess one spends the big bucks. 
The home built guides that Woodnthings mentioned work amazingly well for the price of a couple lengths of plywood, and most of us have shop vacs for clean up.
It pretty well comes down to how often do you need to break sheet goods down, and is it worth spending money on a seldom used tool, or is it something that you are willing to pay for to increase your productivity and improve your working conditions.
Everyone's situation is different.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

I wish someone would just sell a circular saw with dust collection...

I also dont really care about the riving knife or plunge.

Though, i still make all my cuts 1/4" big and make the final cut on the table saw. I just dont trust my clamping abilities to make parallel cuts.

WHen its all said and done, Ive looked and looked, even the grizzly track saw just never quite gets me to pull the trigger, $300+ for dust collection... I made a guide for my cordless dewalt and it does the job.


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## NickB (Sep 24, 2013)

I have the Grizzly track saw. I use it often, breaking down sheet goods. I don't think it's "night and day" better than a circ saw and guide and I know guys that can cut freehand better with a circ saw than I can my track saw. I do have trouble reaching across a 4' sheet (t-rex arm syndrome), so I like the track for that. It just feels safer. It's still not accurate though and I usually break down to rough size and head to the tablesaw to clean up to actual size. 

The dust collection is much like a tablesaw. It picks up a lot of it, but a bunch still get's spit out, too. 

I don't really understand the benefit of a plunge saw as I've always used a jig-saw for non-though cuts. I guess it sits nice on a shelf. 

I don't think a well supported sheet needs a riving knife and I couldn't see using this thing for ripping.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Nick has the Grizzly and I have the Scheppach track saw. Same saw, different paint scheme. I bought additional tracks from Grizzly to attach to the two short tracks that came with the Scheppach.

However, since the OP bought a Domino, the Scheppauch is probably out of his league! :laughing:

It popped up on WOOT! one day for $125 plus $5 shipping. I couldn't resist. So far it has worked just fine for me. I usually use it to break down sheet goods or crosscut wide panels. I don't want to wrestle with them on the table saw. 

I am sure there are more features on the more expensive saw like the DeWalt, Freshtool, Makita, etc.

But I am just a hobbyist so this is what I have. And I just used it to cut a cabinet back to final size and crosscut the top to final size. :thumbsup:


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## bigarm (Mar 11, 2015)

I am mainly interested in cutting down full sheets of plywood, but would like it to be able to cut to the final size so make the nice cuts. Don't really want to cut it down and then take it to the table saw for final cut. I can do that with my cordless DeWalt. Thanks for the info. I am not finding the Scheppach available but have found the Grizzly and a Shop Fox. Is the Shop Fox the same saw? I like the prices on these, but the reviews talk about "wobble" on the track. Is that a problem for you?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

bigarm said:


> I am mainly interested in cutting down full sheets of plywood, but would like it to be able to cut to the final size so make the nice cuts. Don't really want to cut it down and then take it to the table saw for final cut. I can do that with my cordless DeWalt. Thanks for the info. I am not finding the Scheppach available but have found the Grizzly and a Shop Fox. Is the Shop Fox the same saw? I like the prices on these, but the reviews talk about "wobble" on the track. Is that a problem for you?


Wobble hasn't been a problem for me. Or, maybe I just haven't noticed.


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## bigarm (Mar 11, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> Wobble hasn't been a problem for me. Or, maybe I just haven't noticed.


Great, thanks.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I rip 4x8 sheets on my ts with no problems, and have no problems using a zero clearance guide as in Woodthings post for crosscutting sheets.
Just hold the saw against the guide fence, and I get a great cut.


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## NickB (Sep 24, 2013)

bigarm said:


> I like the prices on these, but the reviews talk about "wobble" on the track. Is that a problem for you?


The problem I have with accuracy is that there are 2 rubber strips glued to the bottom of the track. I clamp using the optional clamp set, but even then, the adhesive on the strips has enough "give" to allow them to slide on the aluminum and allow the track to slip a bit. 

If it's for shelves and carcasses, realistically, it's probably fine. For smaller parts where 1/16" is noticeable (like ripping strips to cut down to drawer sides), the pieces need cleaned up at the TS.


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

Seems like everyone who uses a Festool doesn't even bother to clamp it. A guy I coach baseball with uses a TS55 and has never used his clamps. Yes, it costs twice as much, but that is one reason why.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

First tool I built for my new shop. I don't move it so it cuts accurate enough for the final cut. 

I can build 3 or 4 of these for the price of the track saw. But the track saw is a very worth while tool and more than accurate for anything in wood.

Al


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

I have had a ts 55 for 8 years. Love the saw. I probably am the most unconventional user of one though.
I rarely work with sheet goods though.

I dont usually clamp my rails down.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

what is on the bottom of the festool tracks that keeps it stable? 

Maybe we just need to get a roll of the stuff they put on push pads and glue it to the bottom of any track?

Unfortunately, if its $800 festool TS55 or go home, Im going home


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Some grippy foamy rubbery stuff. They sell replacement strips of it.

Push pads with that black foamy stuff suck. Nothing comes close to what they use on the grrriper ones.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Post # 15.....

Folks can say,believe whatever they want.....


We can design/engineer/build a Vert panel saw that'll literally fit in a hallway.When it comes to speed(in use)....it's like comparing a top fuel dragster with a bone stock KIA.In the time it takes most folks to do 2 or 3 cuts horizontally(table saw)....and we won't even "go there" WRT the space required.....A Vert,XY panel saw has made the cut and never even blinked.

I realize not everyone is looking for blinding....AKA,"stupid fast" speed when,or how it relates to WW'ing.Just sayin.....TS's and their attendant space requirements,....flat out suck.Not to mention how bloomin slow they are.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

A panel saw sounds great. I see them in action at the big box stores and the lumber yard I frequent. Unfortunately, I don't have any room for one. My shop is too small.

If possible, I will get the sheet cut at least once. I always haver s cutlist for reference when I hit the front door.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Nothing beats this panel saw. Saw this a few years ago.
http://youtu.be/FvwrUMHu2oc

Al


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Hard to travel around with a panel saw, or use it to cut in borders in flooring, or mitered tapered columns, or.....


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Panel saw = shop tool.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Hard to travel around with a panel saw, or use it to cut in borders in flooring, or mitered tapered columns, or.....



Okay try this one.

http://youtu.be/RUcCsgZXjI4

Al


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

I would just buy festools version, no screwing around.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Al B Thayer said:


> Panel saw = shop tool.
> 
> Al


Rail saw = use it any where you want or need to.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I got a Saw Trax panel saw kit*



WarnerConstInc. said:


> Rail saw = use it any where you want or need to.












It may also be called a rail or beam saw, since the carriage runs on 2" tubes that are 78" long. I got some additional tubes that are 120" long so I can rip a 96" panel down it's length. I use a radial arm saw motor, rather than the circular saw for which it is designed. I am still in the "build process" and I'm not even sure what I will do with it anyway, since I don't take any on site work. It does take quite a bit of bench space which in my shop, is very limited.

Like this with 120" rails:









It slides real nice....


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Ok then, track saw. Geese Bill.:laughing:

Plus, thats more like a countertop saw. 

Beam saws are huge.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I think everyone ends up with the tool that best fits their needs. Most of my work is reno on my 120+ yr old house so anything that locks me into a 90° cut isn't for me, including panel saws. I use a Makita track saw system but dumped the Makita clamps in favor of the deWalts. Most of the time, for me, an apparently square opening will require a panel with angles on 3 of the 4 edges, all different. Gets even more interesting if one or more of those edges also need a bevel to make it fit well. Most of the angles are fairly slight, less than 10°, but enough to make a substantial difference depending on the length of the run.
The Makita system gives me more than enough latitude to handle these things and will cut to the pencil mark. It isn't necessarily a system for everyone as it is kinda spendy but still cheaper than the Festool. It fits my needs nicely. :smile:


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

BWSmith said:


> Post # 15.....
> 
> Folks can say,believe whatever they want.....
> 
> ...


it takes alot of real estate... 

I cut my wood on the trailer I bring it home on. Lift up the panel, throw some 4x4 blocks under it to support and clamp my guide to it.


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