# Can you plane MDF?



## Streamwinner

Hi all,

I've been searching around this forum and others for an answer to this question, but can't find anything conclusive.

I'd like to make a zero-clearance throat plate today, and I can't find any small sections of 3/8" MDF (and I'm definitely not buying a sheet when I only need a small piece). I do have 3/4 that I could resaw and plane. I also thought about planing some plywood that I have. Keep in mind that I only need one side to be smooth (I'll have set screws on the underside).

Anyways, I've also thought about using hardwood and read in another post that birch would be okay, but I'm worried about movement and/or cupping over time. I also read Woodnthings post about only making the insert, but it seems like making the whole plate would make more sense given my ability level and tool arsenal. 

Any thoughts?

-SW


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## bb71

Can you purchase a small piece of baltic birch ply? My hardwood supplier carries it down to 30 x 30. Baltic Birch makes great inserts - no cupping, warping, etc.


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## sweensdv

I doubt if planing the MDF will be very kind to your planer's knives. Why not just use the ¾". If you have a router table you could route away the outside edge of the insert down to a 3/8" thickness.


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## Colt W. Knight

Yes you can plane Mdf. I've done it before.


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## Gorp

Colt W. Knight said:


> Yes you can plane Mdf. I've done it before.


+1

I have planed MDF also and it did not dammage the blades at all.


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## Tony B

*+1 for planing MDF*

No problem at all with the planer but when you break the surface of MDF, it will suck up moisture. I always use plastic laminate on top of the MDF. If you plane it, put the MDF on the planed surface.


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## Rory

Yes, MDF can be planed. And although I have never had MDF causing damage to a planer blade such as chipping, your planer blades may get dull faster due to the glue content of the MDF. I would agree with the posts that are recommending baltic birch plywood. Good luck!
-Rory-


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## Streamwinner

Thanks for the tips, everyone. I ended up finding a piece of 1/2" MDF and took Sween's idea of routing a rabbet around the edges. It was a little tricky because I had to rabbet two different depths and widths, but got it done today.

Thanks again,

-SW


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## Vikingstar

I just made one of these out of some HTE plastic that I purchased at my supply store. It seems to be very stable and holds the set screws very well too.


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## mwhafner

MDF can be planed, and if you are using high quality knives, the impact is minimal. 

I use MDF frequently as a gauge to setup my dovetail jig, router table, etc. I plane and sand it the same as the good stock, so it is my sacrificial pieces.


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## garryswf

sweensdv said:


> I doubt if planing the MDF will be very kind to your planer's knives. Why not just use the ¾". *If you have a router table you could route away the outside edge of the insert* down to a 3/8" thickness.


Get busy Streamwinner:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Syngyn

I'm new to woodworking, so probably a stupid question. A project calls for 1/4 " edge banding from solid stock. What exactly is 'solid stock?' I thought it meant MDF or something similar, but in the video he planed it and it looked like real wood.

Thank You,


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## FrankC

Syngyn said:


> I'm new to woodworking, so probably a stupid question. A project calls for 1/4 " edge banding from solid stock. What exactly is 'solid stock?' I thought it meant MDF or something similar, but in the video he planed it and it looked like real wood.
> 
> Thank You,


Solid stock is real wood, MDF is a mixture of sawdust and glue.

When you use a composite board such as plywood the layers are visible on the edges so a strip of wood is used to cover them up, hence edge banding.


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## Steve Neul

Syngyn said:


> I'm new to woodworking, so probably a stupid question. A project calls for 1/4 " edge banding from solid stock. What exactly is 'solid stock?' I thought it meant MDF or something similar, but in the video he planed it and it looked like real wood.
> 
> Thank You,


MDF is literally a thick sheet of paper, the same kind of paper grocery sacks are made out of. It's not necessary to band the edge of MDF however when you go to finish it the edge will absorb the finish like a sponge and take many many coats before it's sealed. The guy in the video is recommending edge banding it to prevent this. If you are painting it and cover the edge with a strip of pine molding then it would all paint very easy. When I worked for a company that made a lot of MDF fixtures they had an edge banding machine which we put a paper edge on the edge of the wood so it would finish easy. I don't know if it's available pre-pasted to iron on or not.


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## Streamwinner

If painting, I just put a thin coat of wood putty on the ends, then sand smooth and paint over. Same effect.


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