# Irwin pipe clamp modified for push/pull.



## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Bought the Irwin pipe clamp last summer, and disliked the fact that the adjustable end didn't screw on like the Pony and others do. Then the light bulb lit - I could modify it to push as well as pull. So, disassembly time. Picture 1 shows the locking mechanism on the adjustable end, similar to the other sliding end. #2 shows the disassembled clamp. The handle is just a press fit and a little work with a small hammer removes it. A roll pin holds the threaded screw to the movable face, and after driving it out with a pin punch, the clamp can be totally disassembled. 

Picture 3 shows the top of the main casting being drilled with a step bit. A small pilot hole was drilled first, locating the center by eye. The part is cast iron, and drills easily. The step drill only opened it up to about 3/4", and a couple S&D drill bits got it to 1-3/32, still too small to fit over a 3/4" pipe. A bit of work with a half round file finished it to where it would smoothly slide over the pipe. Picture 4 shows the casting as drilled.


----------



## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Clamp reassembled and shown in the "push" configuration. By reversing the clamps, it returns to the conventional style clamp. The original handle will not work in the "push" orientation; a 3/8" open end wrench adjusts it easily. Debating on attaching a 3/8" drive socket to the screw, to allow operation with a ratchet.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Irwin is not the only clamp that has that capability. I can change any of the pipe clamps that I have into the push configuration. 

George


----------



## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> Irwin is not the only clamp that has that capability. I can change any of the pipe clamps that I have into the push configuration.
> 
> George


What kind of pipe clamps do you have?
How do you change this type into a push style?


----------



## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

The Pony deep reach clamps work much the same way. But the end with the pipe thread has a fixed part that can be turned around on the pipe and the other end has a big wing "nut" as part of the clamping screw since there is more clearance to the pipe. Maybe on your clamps you could drive the socket with an impact driver for fast pull up then switch to a ratchet? Or weld a bigger end on and put a slide bar thru it. Always ready to go.
I can't see how Alchymist's clamps can be turned since there is no clearance for the handle to turn. How is the handle attached?


----------



## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Larry42 said:


> The Pony deep reach clamps work much the same way. But the end with the pipe thread has a fixed part that can be turned around on the pipe and the other end has a big wing "nut" as part of the clamping screw since there is more clearance to the pipe. Maybe on your clamps you could drive the socket with an impact driver for fast pull up then switch to a ratchet? Or weld a bigger end on and put a slide bar thru it. Always ready to go.
> I can't see how Alchymist's clamps can be turned since there is no clearance for the handle to turn. How is the handle attached?





Alchymist said:


> Clamp reassembled and shown in the "push" configuration. By reversing the clamps, it returns to the conventional style clamp. The original handle will not work in the "push" orientation; a 3/8" open end wrench adjusts it easily. Debating on attaching a 3/8" drive socket to the screw, to allow operation with a ratchet.


Actually, I think I will take a piece of steel rod, slot one end, and pin it to the clamp screw. It can then be easily flipped over every half turn, or held straight out for fast adjusting.

Or perhaps just cross drill the end of the screw for a sliding handle like a tap handle.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*How so?*



GeorgeC said:


> Irwin is not the only clamp that has that capability. I can change any of the pipe clamps that I have into the push configuration.
> 
> George











My Pony 3/4" clamp adjuster is not reversible and will not slide down the pipe because it is threaded. This modification solves that issue. :vs_cool:
The Irwin end is not threaded like the Pony, but it does make it easy to modify as shown above.


----------



## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Was looking things over yesterday in anticipation of adding a couple more pipe clamps to the collection for an upcoming project. Have a long piece of 3/4" pipe with one threaded end in use now, (about 8+ feet long), and was going to cut a couple feet off it and have it threaded for a new clamp, when I realized i didn't need to have it threaded - the Irwin clamp doesn't need threads on the pipe.


----------



## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

*Pipe clamp options*

We've got a lot of pipe clamps but never the right length. So I threaded all ends so we could use a coupling to add them together.

If you buy pipe, get the "extra heavy", if you've got employees. They like to see how over-tight they can get them and will bend the pipes. 
Black pipe is available in 3 wall thicknesses.


----------



## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Larry42 said:


> We've got a lot of pipe clamps but never the right length. So I threaded all ends so we could use a coupling to add them together.
> 
> If you buy pipe, get the "extra heavy", if you've got employees. They like to see how over-tight they can get them and will bend the pipes.
> Black pipe is available in 3 wall thicknesses.


And when you buy couplers, use "conduit" rather than "pipe" couplers. They are not as bulky as regular pipe couplers


----------



## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

*Update on the Irwin clamp*

Finally resolved the handle issue - some rather crude machining, but it now has a swivel handle, with ability to tighten with a 1/4" ratchet if need be. The swivel handle does appear to furnish sufficient clamp pressure, as it is just slightly longer than the original handle length. The 1/4" socket was an import "spare", and the end of the handle turned for a light press fit and then pinned.


----------

