# Tapered leg jig I made



## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

I copied jig from this website.
http://woodworking.about.com/od/woodworkingplansdesigns/ss/TaperingJig.htm


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

That should work fine. :thumbsup:


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

It looks cool but for some reason something does not look safe about it. 


> Hold the board against the jig and the jig against the fence and slide the entire apparatus through your saw blade.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

mengtian said:


> It looks cool but for some reason something does not look safe about it.


 
The one in your picture looks 'better' to me because it has the entire surface that 'rides' against the fence being flat vs the one in the OP's pic as having the bump in the back near the nuts / bolts. 

I would have no problems being 'safe' with either but I would definitely add a much longer extension to the fence (front and back) if using one like the OP's that had a bump sticking out in the back.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

mengtian said:


> It looks cool but for some reason something does not look safe about it.


Look on the bright side, its a sawstop, so when you feed your hand through itll only break skin!


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

OnealWoodworking said:


> The one in your picture looks 'better' to me because it has the entire surface that 'rides' against the fence being flat vs the one in the OP's pic as having the bump in the back near the nuts / bolts.
> 
> I would have no problems being 'safe' with either but I would definitely add a much longer extension to the fence (front and back) if using one like the OP's that had a bump sticking out in the back.


Both have "the bump" and it is to push the board being tapered through the saw blade.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*there's a lack of communication here I think*

The bump near the nuts and bolts is the swing bracket that protrudes out on the first photo. It may interefere with a taller fence...I donno? In the other photo the side against the fence appears to be flush.

Here's another method which rides in the miter slot rather than against the fence:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/video/a-simple-tapering-jig.aspx

The "fancy" shop built clamp can be replaced by a toggle clamp hold down. The concept is pretty good otherwise since you can fully see your amount of taper.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> The bump near the nuts and bolts is the swing bracket that protrudes out on the first photo. It may interefere with a taller fence...I donno? In the other photo the side against the fence appears to be flush.


I see what you are saying and when I put right side of jig against the fence there is a 1/8" clearance between fence and "bump part".

Also I thought about fastening jig on a 1/4" piece of ply and adding toggle clamps for a hold down.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> Here's another method which rides in the miter slot rather than against the fence:
> http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/video/a-simple-tapering-jig.aspx
> 
> The "fancy" shop built clamp can be replaced by a toggle clamp hold down. The concept is pretty good otherwise since you can fully see your amount of taper.


Using the miter slot would be a really good idea and a little bit safer as he says in the video, maybe I will do that down the road.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Throw that jig away before you get hurt and make a ripping sled.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*agreed*



TrevortdogR said:


> Using the miter slot would be a really good idea and a little bit safer as he says in the video, maybe I will do that down the road.





Hammer1 said:


> Throw that jig away before you get hurt and make a ripping sled.



Good advice Hammer1. A sled will ride in the miter slots, not against the fence. The important thing is that the "leg" is secured against stops and is firmly held down against the sled by a toggle. Practically nothing can "go wrong" that way, and that's why I posted the FWW video.


If you should get a tensioned piece of stock that wants to close on the back of the blade, you will want to have a hand free to shut down the saw. You can't do that with a "fence rider" like the one shown. :no:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

OnealWoodworking said:


> The one in your picture looks 'better' to me because it has the entire surface that 'rides' against the fence being flat vs the one in the OP's pic as having the bump in the back near the nuts / bolts.
> 
> I would have no problems being 'safe' with either but I would definitely add a much longer extension to the fence (front and back) if using one like the OP's that had a bump sticking out in the back.


I would guess the "bump in the back" is nothing more than a camera angle illusion.

Though this type of jig has been around forever the style with a base and a clamping system that also works as a straight edge jig is the type I use, it just feels safer.


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