# Log Bed Wiggles



## Anna93 (Nov 23, 2013)

Hi everyone,

I am from Germany and love Canadian / American Log Beds. 

After a LONG time of searching, I found a carpenter who was prepared to build me such a bed - NOBODY in Germany makes such beds.

Now the bed is standing in my home, but we have a problem: It wiggles. But only from top to bottom side. The carpenter said he wanted to put a wooden piece in the form of a pen into each of the four bedposts where the single parts of the bed are linked. I said NO, as if I ever move out of my current appartment, I will have to drill it out. Also screws instead of such a "wooden pen" might not solve the problem.
The only solution we now found is to put another log from the head part to the side part of the bed so it creats a triangle on both sides. But it does not look that original anymore then, as per my opinion.

Do you have a good idea for us? I hope I could explain it understandable :blink:

Here is a picture:









Thank you so much in advance!


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## Pauley (Jan 21, 2012)

Maybe have him put the peg in but do not use any glue. That way, if you decide to take it apart you would only need to tap the pegs out.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I would use bolts and what we call a barrel nut. Round shape so fits in a drilled hole. This will provide the strength and allow the bed to be taken apart if you need to move.

This link gives you an idea.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67659&cat=1,43455

The hole for head of the bolt can be drilled deeper than the head and then you can make a plug which is either a loose fit, or attached with a small magnet.


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## MNsawyergp (Jan 31, 2012)

The only way to get a fit that is not wobbly on bed rails is to have a big shoulder on the tenon/tongue/dowel that goes into the hole in the post. Without a shoulder there is nothing to prevent the bed post from wobbling, no matter how tight the fit. 

Yes, a bolt to draw the dowel into the hole tighter will help, but the problem will persist.

A triangle incorporated into the design will act as the shoulder I am describing. How to do it and still keep your nice log design will be the challenge.

If you want to look at a couple of bed designs I have built, go to my Shutterfly page ...

https://mnsawyerswoodworkingandartworks.shutterfly.com/pictures/18

https://mnsawyerswoodworkingandartworks.shutterfly.com/pictures/18#17

These beds use tenons that go all the way through the posts and tapered pegs are pounded into mortise holes in the exposed tongue. See the big shoulders on these bed rails which prevent wobbling.


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## Anna93 (Nov 23, 2013)

@Pauley: You brought me to the idea to put in a peg, but to let it stick out on the inside (so you do not see it from the outside). So, if I need to move the bed, you can grab the and tear them out.

@ Dave Paine: Thank you very much for your suggestion, I will inform my carpenter. 

@MNsawyergp: Shoulder is the "head part" of the bed, right? So you mean a peg, no matter in which way we put it in, will not prevent the bed from wiggling. Only such a "triangle" construction can avoid it. Right?
More or less we came to the same conclusion, but then we wondered how it is done in America / Canada, as no beds have such triangles there and the head part is not bigger/heavier than mine. :huh:


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

There is a small shop in my village which makes log beds, tables and chairs. The log beds are just the head-board and the foot-board.
All of the mortise & tenon joints are glued with epoxy. They do everything with a beautiful wood called Diamond Willow.

The rest of the bed under the mattress is ordinary boards from the local lumber yard. The corners hold together with metal joints which they buy from Lee Valley.


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## MNsawyergp (Jan 31, 2012)

I will try to explain better. From the picture I see that the side rails, the log pieces that go between the head board and the foot board, have been trimmed down on each end to a smaller diameter, which creates the "dowel" or "peg" that goes into the corner post. Where these two different diameters meet, that step is what I call the "shoulder". To prevent the bed from rocking, wobbling, or squeaking, somehow you need to drive the side rail ends into the post holes until that "shoulder touches the corner post. My complaint with the design is that the "shoulders are not big enough. I know it is too late to change that. 

My solution would be to drive the smaller diameter "dowel" into the post holes until the shoulder hits the post. Also, I would drill a hole from the back side of each post that connects into the dowel hole. I would insert a lag screw with a flat washer, as in this link....

https://www.google.com/search?q=pic...ce-accessories%2F5-inch-lag-bolt.html;350;400 
.... into that hole and tighten it into the ends of the "dowel" of the side rails. Like this...

https://www.google.com/search?q=pic...d-poplar-kitchen-workstation-table%2F;350;318

This would keep the side rail shoulders tight against the corner posts. 

When you want to disassemble the bed, you would remove these lag bolts and pull the side rails out of the holes in the corner posts.


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## MNsawyergp (Jan 31, 2012)

Here is another solution. You could attach decorative metal post brackets under each side rail end and attach them to the corner posts. These would form the triangles you are wanting, look in keeping with the rustic look, and be removable. Look at this link...

https://www.google.com/search?q=pic...erior-Support-Black%2Fdp%2FB009ABD26E;300;258


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## Anna93 (Nov 23, 2013)

Oh wow, thank you so much for your help! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
I will talk to my carpenter asap and explain your solution to him. I will let you know the further development...
Thank you!


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