# Deciding on a table saw



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Hi All,

Newbie here excited to go on the journey of woodworking. I've always had an interest and I've dabbled but I've never gone all in. Time is now to fully embark on this journey. I would appreciate some input on purchasing my first table saw. 

Projects I will be working on upfront will be 90+% made from hardwoods with the occasional softwood. I have no intentions on any material outside of wood. Reading multiple articles, reviews etc. I see I will be looking to spend anywhere from $500-$3,000. I know I could exceed $3,000, but my budget won't allow. I like the Bosch 4100-09, but my concern is how well will it perform with hardwoods? Would I be better off looking at Jet or SawStop and ignoring the job site style saws? Price point for starting a hobby the Bosch is a much more attractive price, but then again I don't want to regret it in 6 months to a year wishing I had purchased one of the others. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thank You,

Chad


----------



## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

I would think about a SawStop, if I didn't have a pretty new Unisaw, the one I got was one of the last ones made in the states

But if you feel confident about your sawing skills (Watching where you fingers are) Grizzly makes some of the best tools for the money in my opinion, and apparently in many people's opinion, they sell out faster than they can get them imported

I wouldn't spend the money on a Powermatic or Delta any more they look like they are made in the same factory as the Grizzly's and cost 2-3 times as much

I have about 8 Grizzly machines and not a complaint on any of them


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*cast iron vs aluminum*

The major difference between a job site saw or portable is the weight, aluminum being much lighter than cast iron. I own a Bosh 4000-09 and it's a great portable saw with decent power and a decent fence. It's quite accurate as well. I think I paid around $600.00 new about 10 years ago. I don't use it much at all any longer since I'm not working on site or even outside.

I have other saws, a Craftsman Hybrid 22124, which is also a great saw, tho no longer made. Rigid make a similar model if I recall. The more is within the cabinet and dust collection is much improved by that. The Biesemeyer fence that came with it is one of the best on the market. It has extension to the right for a rip capacity of around 36" or so. Plenty of power at 1 /34/HP. Really smooth controls. It listed for $1100.00 at the time. I love this saw, which was a floor model I stole for $486.00 on sale.

A cast iron saw with the motor within the cabinet is what I would recommend, 1 3/4 HP to 2 HP. Grizzly may have one on the low end of your budget. If you need 3 HP or more, you are probably ripping hardwood 2.5 to 3" thick on a regular basis, not typical of a home shop. A thin kerf blade like a Diablo 1040 will make a big improvement for almost all sawing operations. Their 50 tooth blade is equally good. 

A light weight saw like the Bosch 4000, will be tippy unless bolted to a wider support when ripping plywood, which is really a 2 man job. The factory stand is quite stable, but additional support is always a good idea. Out feed supports are a great safety accessory. 

There are lots of table saws in the $1500.00 range from Grizzly with 3 HP motor and good fences. I'd consider those as a life time investment which you would never need to replace.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I think you should look at some of the saws in person. There is a big difference in size. I have two table saws - a Grizzly 1023 and the DeWalt DWE780 or something like that. There is a big difference in size.

I also have a drum sander and a band saw - all Grizzly products. No complaints

The table saw will out live me for sure. A cabinet saw can be a lifetime purchase.

Good luck in your search.
Mike


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Thank You Guys for the info. Looks like I need to investigate the Grizzly product a little more.


----------



## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

Great advice from previous posts! Also consider "getting up close" to see the TS in action, as well as reading reviews on-line, magazines, etc. of a TS that interests you. Make a list of features you like, and don't like, including your project needs now & in the future, and the "footprint " of the TS, to be certain it will fit into the flow of your workshop. Be aware, some of the 3hp units MAY require an up-grade to your electrical system. Watch and ask for "sales" from manufacturing & dealers. Be safe.


----------



## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

Skip the jobsite saw unless it will primarily used in different locations on a regular basis. If you have a home shop, you're far better off with a full size cast iron saw with a belt drive induction motor....and you're budget will allow that. The table saw is the heart and soul of most home shops, and is worth some research time and proportionate budget. If you have 220v (aka 240v) available, a 3hp industrial cabinet saw will likely be all the saw you'll ever need or want. If you don't have 220v, you'll be limited to a 110v (aka 120v) saw that will max out at roughly 1.75hp...that's enough power for the vast majority of cutting, but they'll work harder, will dictate the cutting pace to you, and will be far more sensitive to alignment, blade choice, and user technique....it's not difficult to bog down a motor of that size. A 3hp saw will have a noticeably easier time, and will allow you to dictate the pace....the industrial cabinet saws are also much more robust under the hood. 

Full size saws start in the $500-$600 range (Delta, Ridgid, Craftsman), and come with steel wings, lesser fences, open leg stands, less powerful motors, and more questionable track records. I'd start by at least looking into one of the better hybrid saws, such as the Grizzly G0771Z, G0715P, Jet Proshop, Laguna Fusion, or Shop Fox W1824 (range is ~ $800 to $1500 depending on options). The Powermatic PM64B and PM1000 are also both excellent, but are on the more expensive side for this class of saw and power ($1600-$2100). All are good serviceable saws with ample power, good to excellent fences, and most have very good track records. 

Some of the 110v hybrid saws push the price point into the range of a Grizzly G1023RL or G0690 3hp industrial cabinet saw, which are among the most saws for the money IMO (~$1500-$1600)....bigger motors, industrial grade underpinnings, better fences, more mass, and excellent track records. IMHO, that's the sweet spot for the money if you have 220v....you get what many would see as an impressive and even somewhat enviable saw for a moderate price tag. For around $2200-$2600 you can step into a Jet Xacta 3hp saw, which is roughly comparable, but with longer warranty, arguably better fit and finish, and solid dealer support. The Shop Fox W1819/1820, and Laguna Platinum are also wtihin budget in the industrial cabinet saw class. The Delta Unisaw and PM2000 are < $3k also, but I would not spend that much money for anything associated with Delta right now, due to questionable foreign ownership, poor service, and parts availability. The PM2000 is the Cadillac of this class.

The safety feature of a Saw Stop should also be considered. The have 3 full size models...the contractor saw, Professional Cabinet Saw (PCS), and Industrial Cabinet Saw (ICS...beyond budget). For a comparable saw, the price point jumps quite a bit, but if you choose well, you'll get a nice saw that won't bite the hand that feeds it. The basic contractor saw is ~ $1700, and includes a very basic fence generally found on much cheaper saws, open leg stand, outboard motor, and steel wings....the fence upgrade (recommended) and cast iron wings (nice to have) push the price to ~ $2000. Their PCS model offers a full enclosure, better fence, and solid cast wings....the T-Glide fence option (also recommended if you're going to spend this much) and 3hp motor push it to the top of your budget.

No matter which saw you get, the end performance of any of them will be largely dependent on good setup, alignment, and blade choice.


----------



## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

I have the 3 hp 36" PCS Sawstop. My primary considerations in buying this saw are twofold. I've tried to make my Cave as inviting to the grandkids as possible while keeping it as safe as I could. The second reason was that I could get this safety without sacrificing saw quality. 
I'm a hobbyist who lives a couple of hours drive from the nearest hardwood supplier. (I don't count the BORG's that are only an hour away). I try to keep material on hand, which means I don't just buy for a specific project. 
I've found that for my stocking purposes buying 8/4 material makes storage more convenient. The 3hp saw handles this easily. It also slices the occasional 12/4 board. 
An added benefit of thicker stock let's me play with my other toys to prepare the wood for use. 
This saw would be at the upper end of your budget. 
I have some Grizzly equipment that has performed faultlessly for me. I haven't had a saw. Only had to contact Customer Service once, because of some missing pieces that fell out of a damaged box. CS was excellent! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Notskot and WesTex,

Thank You both for your input. I truly appreciate it. Reading responses thus far it's clear I need to focus my search on a cabinet style saw. Given the fact I'm a newbie I truly love the safety features of the SawStop, but yes it's definitely at the upper end of my budget. I've been looking at the Grizzly's and Jet's and they appear to be great options as well. Grizzly is the cheapest and Jet isn't far off of the SawStop. From what I've gathered thus far it appears what sets SawStop apart from the others is their safety features. Is this correct, or am I missing something else? If I'm focused on price it would appear Grizzly is my best choice, but if I'm just trying to stay under $3,000 it would be SawStop.

Running 110 vs. 220 is there a true preference between the 2 and if so what?


----------



## Cowpokey (Feb 10, 2017)

Search craigslist for a used saw, get a lot more saw for the money than buying new. That said, I would go for a Grizzly 1023 if buying new; have not heard a bad thing about them from people that know what they're doing.


----------



## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

clschaffer said:


> Notskot and WesTex,
> 
> Thank You both for your input. I truly appreciate it. Reading responses thus far it's clear I need to focus my search on a cabinet style saw. Given the fact I'm a newbie I truly love the safety features of the SawStop, but yes it's definitely at the upper end of my budget. I've been looking at the Grizzly's and Jet's and they appear to be great options as well. Grizzly is the cheapest and Jet isn't far off of the SawStop. From what I've gathered thus far it appears what sets SawStop apart from the others is their safety features. Is this correct, or am I missing something else? If I'm focused on price it would appear Grizzly is my best choice, but if I'm just trying to stay under $3,000 it would be SawStop.
> 
> Running 110 vs. 220 is there a true preference between the 2 and if so what?


I wouldn't spend the extra bucks for a Jet, most of the parts will interchange with a Grizzly so I would bet they are built by the same people. Grizzly has always sold direct to the customer, Jet, Shopfox, Delta Powermatics are distributors and the middle man needs to get his cut

I have dealt with Grizzly quite a bit and if there ever was a problem, they sent the stuff to cure it, and honestly the only problems I had was a tube of honing compound got squashed, and a pulley wasn't tight and I ran it long enough to make the aluminum pulley a little wallowed out

As far as the 120-240 thing, if you use heavy enough wire for the 120 it will operate the same as 240, but it does take a larger wire for 120


----------



## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

clschaffer said:


> Notskot and WesTex,
> 
> Thank You both for your input. I truly appreciate it. Reading responses thus far it's clear I need to focus my search on a cabinet style saw. Given the fact I'm a newbie I truly love the safety features of the SawStop, but yes it's definitely at the upper end of my budget. I've been looking at the Grizzly's and Jet's and they appear to be great options as well. Grizzly is the cheapest and Jet isn't far off of the SawStop. From what I've gathered thus far it appears what sets SawStop apart from the others is their safety features. Is this correct, or am I missing something else? If I'm focused on price it would appear Grizzly is my best choice, but if I'm just trying to stay under $3,000 it would be SawStop.
> 
> Running 110 vs. 220 is there a true preference between the 2 and if so what?


220v allows you to run motors larger than 2hp....like the true 3hp motors found on the industrial style cabinet saws. 110v won't support more than 2hp, which limits you to the contractor and hybrid saws. 

Also with 220v.... this is far less cut and dry, but 220v draws current from two supply legs, thus splitting the current load across both legs, so you're far less likely to suffer from voltage sag during peak demand. Depending on your particular 120v circuit and the motor being run, 220v tends to do a better job supplying full amperage even to something like a 1.75hp motor during peak load moments...faster recover, faster startup, etc. In 
a nut shell, a typical 120v circuit is more likely to be pushed to it's peak delivery capacity than a 220v circuit, so even if you never run a 3hp motor, having 220v can still be useful, but isn't necessarily essential for smaller motors.

SawStop's safety feature is the only one like it on the market, plus their quality is generally excellent, depending on the model. Perceived quality is subjective, and price dependent. For examples, the SawStop Industrial Cabinet Saw (ICS) is considered a cut above even the PM2000 and Unisaw by many....you'd be hard pressed to find a commonly available consumer cabinet saw that's better, regardless of the brake (but it costs ~ $4500). The PCS is very robust, and can be an awesome saw with the 3hp motor and fence upgrade, but is not quite as robust as the top industrial cabinet saws....the quality is high, and it represents good value in the $3K price range IMO. The quality of their contractor saw is very good, but if you exclude the safety brake I don't consider it to be a better saw than a comparably priced Grizzly industrial cabinet saw....a large portion of the price goes for the safety feature in this case, but it's no less effective at saving your digits. Grizz offers a jump of two saw classes in the price range of the SS contractor saw.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

MT Stringer said:


> I think you should look at some of the saws in person. There is a big difference in size. I have two table saws - a Grizzly 1023 and the DeWalt DWE780 or something like that. There is a big difference in size.
> 
> I also have a drum sander and a band saw - all Grizzly products. No complaints
> 
> ...


Pay particular attention to what is said here. Buying a table saw is not like buying a frying pan over the internet. A table saw is something with which you are going to be very personal for many years.

Buy one that you have had the ability to touch and see just how it fits you. This does not mean that you have to see one in a retail store. You could see one in a friends shop or maybe even a professional shop near you. I am sure someone would be glad to let you see their equipment if you nicely explained what you are doing.

George


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I have more than one table saw....*

As most members here know I collect table saws and sometimes bolt them together to make a larger one to save me changing out the blades for different operation. :wink2:

About 15 years ago, I was in a high end woodworking store in a high end part of Birmingham, MI and was awestruck by a new Powermatic 68, a 12" 5 HP saw with a 52" Biesemeyer 52" capacity fence. It didn't take me long to say "I'll take that one", "How much is it? and "When can you deliver it?" An impulse purchase indeed! :surprise2:

So, today I still own the saw after I made a beautiful HD castered welded base for it. I probably have under 10 hrs on it. It's way more saw than I need or can even use. I have about 10 brand new blades and a 10" dado set for it, never used, which may have been a gift, I can't remember. So, the moral of this story is be careful when shopping in person. You may fall in love with the wrong tool. 
The very first time I put a Pine board through it, the board exploded and scared the crap out of me. That 5 Hp Baldor motor still does. It is "out of service" for now and has been for about 5 years. I still like it, but don't feel much like selling it for some reason. :|


----------



## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

JMHO, and I will probably get some who disagree with me. I noticed that Craftsman wasn't mentioned- or at least I didn't see it. CM has their products made by others under contract. First, some CM parts won't interchange with OEM parts. Second, CM only stocks certain parts that are subject to wear and tear for a limited time. Seems like Grizzly gets a good review. Do your homework and check reviews on saws. Good luck on your search for the holy grail, I mean, saw.


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Thank You All For Your Input And Advice,

I decided to purchase a Grizzly G1023RLWX. I'm excited for the road ahead and can't wait for my new toy to arrive. You've all been very helpful, and I can't Thank You enough. I look forward to engaging with you all more as my new found hobby moves forward.

Thanks Again!!!


----------



## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Big toys for big boys! Have fun and safe woodworking!


----------



## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

I think you'll be happy with it. Set it up and start making some woodworking glitter. 
And remember, without photos it didn't happen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cowpokey (Feb 10, 2017)

Congrats on the saw purchase, look forward to your posts about it when you get it. Quietly sitting here in envy village. :vs_cool:


----------



## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

I am sure you will be very happy with the machine, Grizzly ought to be paying it's customers commission, I know I have sold quite a few machines for them, but I guess our commission is good products at a very reasonable price


----------



## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

Definitely post some pics when you get it, and give us some early opinions.


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

notskot said:


> Definitely post some pics when you get it, and give us some early opinions.


Will Do! Just received word from UPS that it'll be delivered tomorrow (Thursday). Pretty excited to unbox it and get to working.


----------



## Wil_Bloodworth (Apr 7, 2017)

clschaffer said:


> I decided to purchase a Grizzly G1023RLWX.


I'm leaning toward the exact same saw. I would like to hear your impressions once you get it in and setup.

- Wil


----------



## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

clschaffer said:


> Will Do! Just received word from UPS that it'll be delivered tomorrow (Thursday). Pretty excited to unbox it and get to working.



That is the only thing I don't like about Grizzly, they used to ship SIAI freight, my jointer came UPS freight, and I ended up wasting almost 2 days on them, told me they would deliver on Monday so I waited til noon and called them and they said they were sorry about the mix up it wouldn't be delivered until Wednesday, between 12-6 so at about 4:30 they called and said we need to set up an appointment to deliver I told the lady there already was an appointment and I have been waiting all afternoon for the delivery

After I blew a gasket on her, I called back and finally ended up talking to the manager, he promised next day in the morning, as 8:30 the driver called and said he was 45 minutes out, he got here at 11:30


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Wil_Bloodworth said:


> I'm leaning toward the exact same saw. I would like to hear your impressions once you get it in and setup.
> 
> - Wil


I will be happy to post an update once I've completed setup. If you go to YouTube and look up Unemployed ******* Hillbilly Creations he posted a mini series on the saw from unboxing, setup and aligning. He does a great job. My shop will be wired tomorrow, so Sunday I should be able to give an update.


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Catpower said:


> That is the only thing I don't like about Grizzly, they used to ship SIAI freight, my jointer came UPS freight, and I ended up wasting almost 2 days on them, told me they would deliver on Monday so I waited til noon and called them and they said they were sorry about the mix up it wouldn't be delivered until Wednesday, between 12-6 so at about 4:30 they called and said we need to set up an appointment to deliver I told the lady there already was an appointment and I have been waiting all afternoon for the delivery
> 
> After I blew a gasket on her, I called back and finally ended up talking to the manager, he promised next day in the morning, as 8:30 the driver called and said he was 45 minutes out, he got here at 11:30


Wow I would've bee upset as well. My original window was between 8am and 6pm. I told the lady they'd need to do a better job regarding the window. She said she'd have the driver call me when he was a hour out. Sure enough he called around 9:15 and he was here by 10. Packages were in good shape with no damage. That was my biggest concern with UPS.


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

View attachment 288786
Good Evening All,

Well I finally finished setting up my Grizzly table saw. When the saw arrived it was nicely packed and there was no damage to the packaging. Paint was nicely done with no noticeable flaws. Assembly was fairly easy, this coming from a guy who has never assembled a cabinet style table saw before. I was impressed with how well everything lined up and fit. I was able to assemble it by myself, but if at all possible having someone help you attach the left wing, and router table would make a world of a difference. I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to get a nice level fit when connecting the wing and router table to the saw, but everything fit really well. Comes with a Shop Fox Fence, and I'm impressed with the weight, feel and fit of the fence. Saw comes with a 40 tooth blade (will be replaced soon). Blade install was simple with plenty of room to get your fingers in there. I did put the saw on the Shop Fox mobility base due to the fact I'm not fortunate enough to leave my saw in a permanent spot yet. I'm creating a shop in a 3-car garage that houses 3 vehicles. Mobility base was simple to put together, and seems to work as one would hope. Electrician finished installing my 220 and I had a few minutes before I had to leave to fire it up. Really impressed with the sound of the machine. It's quieter than the DeWalt construction saw I've been using. It has a nice smooth hum to it. Yes I did try the nickel test, and it passed with no problem. 

All in all I'm very pleased with my purchase. I would also like to Thank You All for your input and helping me in my search of a quality saw. I know it's not a Saw Stop, Jet or Powermatic but then again it's $1,000-$1,500 cheaper as well. In my opinion the quality is there and I don't think a person can go wrong owning it. I've attached a photo of my saw. If there is a particular photo you'd like to see I'd be happy to get one for you.


----------



## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Nice. I expect you will get years of satisfactory service from that saw. Enjoy it.

I will ask, how many inches to the right and left of the blade? It looks like they might be pretty even. Any reason for that arrangement?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you might consider ...*

There is no need or use for the 8" to 10" of rail on the left side... off the table. Slide the front rail over that amount to gain the additional capacity to the right of the blade. It's a common practice among experienced woodworkers. :wink2:


----------



## Cowpokey (Feb 10, 2017)

woodnthings said:


> There is no need or use for the 8" to 10" of rail on the left side... off the table. Slide the front rail over that amount to gain the additional capacity to the right of the blade.


Agree 100%


----------



## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

clschaffer said:


> View attachment 288786
> Good Evening All,
> 
> Well I finally finished setting up my Grizzly table saw. When the saw arrived it was nicely packed and there was no damage to the packaging. Paint was nicely done with no noticeable flaws. Assembly was fairly easy, this coming from a guy who has never assembled a cabinet style table saw before. I was impressed with how well everything lined up and fit. I was able to assemble it by myself, but if at all possible having someone help you attach the left wing, and router table would make a world of a difference. I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to get a nice level fit when connecting the wing and router table to the saw, but everything fit really well. Comes with a Shop Fox Fence, and I'm impressed with the weight, feel and fit of the fence. Saw comes with a 40 tooth blade (will be replaced soon). Blade install was simple with plenty of room to get your fingers in there. I did put the saw on the Shop Fox mobility base due to the fact I'm not fortunate enough to leave my saw in a permanent spot yet. I'm creating a shop in a 3-car garage that houses 3 vehicles. Mobility base was simple to put together, and seems to work as one would hope. Electrician finished installing my 220 and I had a few minutes before I had to leave to fire it up. Really impressed with the sound of the machine. It's quieter than the DeWalt construction saw I've been using. It has a nice smooth hum to it. Yes I did try the nickel test, and it passed with no problem.
> ...



It is just as good as Jet or Powermatic, and about the only thing the Sawstop has over it is the braking system


----------



## Wil_Bloodworth (Apr 7, 2017)

clschaffer said:


> I will be happy to post an update once I've completed setup. If you go to YouTube and look up Unemployed ******* Hillbilly Creations he posted a mini series on the saw from unboxing, setup and aligning. He does a great job. My shop will be wired tomorrow, so Sunday I should be able to give an update.


Awesome. Thank you!


----------



## Wil_Bloodworth (Apr 7, 2017)

clschaffer said:


> Electrician finished installing my 220 and I had a few minutes before I had to leave to fire it up...


Just curious... how much did the electrician charge you to install a 220 box/outlet?

- Wil


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

subroc said:


> Nice. I expect you will get years of satisfactory service from that saw. Enjoy it.
> 
> I will ask, how many inches to the right and left of the blade? It looks like they might be pretty even. Any reason for that arrangement?


There is 20" to the left, and 28" to the right of the blade. To the right of the blade is where the router mount is.


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Wil_Bloodworth said:


> Just curious... how much did the electrician charge you to install a 220 box/outlet?
> 
> - Wil


I had 25' of 10 wire, box, 2 lines for 220, installed a 4 outlet for 110, 15' 220v extension cord made, wired my bandsaw to 220 plus rewired my outdoor storage shed for 110. He did all of that for $800.


----------



## Wil_Bloodworth (Apr 7, 2017)

Did you pick a router for the table too? If so, which did you go with?


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Wil_Bloodworth said:


> Did you pick a router for the table too? If so, which did you go with?


I'm going to mount a Bosch 1617EVS router to it. I have a Bosch 1617EVSPK currently that I love.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> There is no need or use for the 8" to 10" of rail on the left side... off the table. Slide the front rail over that amount to gain the additional capacity to the right of the blade. It's a common practice among experienced woodworkers. :wink2:


I shifted my rails. I now have rip capacity up to 37 inches. And added an ON/OFF paddle switch (Rockler) for the router.


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

MT Stringer said:


> I shifted my rails. I now have rip capacity up to 37 inches. And added an ON/OFF paddle switch (Rockler) for the router.


I like it, Thank You. I believe those are projects I need to get started on.


----------



## Wil_Bloodworth (Apr 7, 2017)

clschaffer said:


> I'm going to mount a Bosch 1617EVS router to it. I have a Bosch 1617EVSPK currently that I love.


I'm assuming you've verified that this router is compatible with this router table? Sorry... it's probably a dumb question but I have to ask.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Wil_Bloodworth said:


> I'm assuming you've verified that this router is compatible with this router table? Sorry... it's probably a dumb question but I have to ask.


It fits. No problem. In fact, the table comes with three fingers that clamp the router base to the wing. No mounting holes to line up.
See pic below.


----------



## clschaffer (Mar 26, 2017)

Wil_Bloodworth said:


> I'm assuming you've verified that this router is compatible with this router table? Sorry... it's probably a dumb question but I have to ask.


According to the fella I spoke with at Grizzly it'll fit just fine. I'm not positive, but I think MT Stringer has a Bosch mounted to his as well. Lol just seen MT Stringer replied.


----------



## David_Siebert (Nov 15, 2016)

We have several Grizzly tools in our cabinet shop and are very happy with all of them. Another alternative would be a good used Delta - not a new one (poor quality), but one of the old ones from the time that they were built in the US. We have two of them and if you take reasonable care of one your grandsons could enjoy using it too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------

