# Deep, rough hollow out of in-ground tree stump without chiseling or axe?



## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

I have a bad back, and am trying to hollow out a hardwood, still alive in the ground maple tree stump, for use as a planter.

So far I've been able to find two techniques: Using a big horizontal-blade axe, or cutting a ****ton of holes with a wide spade bit, and then a lot of chiseling.

The problem is, due to my back, I can't do the axe, or the chiseling in this material.

My current hairbrained scheme is to first make a lot of holes as close to each other as possible with a 1.5" spade bit, and then use a 1.25" Rotary Tool Circular Saw Blade, plus a bit extender, in a normal drill to cut out the little pieces of wood between the hole saw holes 6" down. Or if those blades won't work with a drill's RPMs, just go down a half-inch at a time with my Dremel.

I feel there has to be a better way / more appropriate tools, but I haven't been able to think of them, thus this post :smile:.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

havent done this.... but if you can hollow out the outer.... 6"? you can take the middle out with progressive passes of a router. You need the edges hollow so there is room for the router to operate. You may not need 6", jus twhatever the diameter of the router body is. For a trim router, maybe its pretty small.


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## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

That's a good point, although in this case, and given the diameter of the tree and the top part of a router, it would take care of less than half of the work. What I really need is a router with a 6" deep plain bit or something like that; but if that exists it probably costs $$$. 

Or maybe something like this Dremel bit, but like 1" in diameter and on a long shaft, meant for use on a drill, and then just plunge around somewhat wildly to remove material...


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

I like Bauer's idea.

You can just start at the outside with the router and work your way to the center. However, as you get deeper, you have trouble with getting the router close to the outside. You'd essentially have a little ledge every time you reached the maximum bit depth.

But that's the inside of the planter, so maybe not so bad?

Or maybe a ship auger bit? Or a six inch regular bit? On a circle jig?


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## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

I'm missing how the router solutions lead to anything other than a shallow reverse step pyramid, with the horizontal steps much longer than the vertical steps.

Re: Auger, that's interesting.... so like go in at an angle down towards the center from the rim all around, and then compass/jab saw between the holes, hopefully leading to a small point of connection at the center pretty far down, that cam maybe even be twisted off, or another large auger hole from the top center to get or weaken the connection? 

I like it, but may have personal newbie-style problems getting that kind of precision; especially since the top of the stump is anything but flat or level.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Maybe this drill bit? I thought you could use a regular drill on a circle jig, drill a few shallow passes. Then move the drill in, cut another circle, etc.. Then just bust out what's in between.

http://www.menards.com/main/mobile/...ll-bits/1-x-8-auger-bit/p-1487641-c-10079.htm


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## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

Looks like a nice bit. But need a bigger one, I think the 16" would work. 

Just thought of something that may reduce the need for precision: If I do a line of downward holes from the edge to the center point for each sideways path, I'll be able to see the sideways cut going down, and maybe make minor corrections, esp. with a spade bit. 

On the vertical holes nearest the edge could even mark the point the center of the bit should hit. Only thing is I'm not sure how a spade or auger bit will react to the material being on one side of it but not the other. My guess is an auger bit would be fine after it's in a certain length / be self-guiding, while a spade bit will be messy but easier to correct the angle.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Here is a supposedly almost 4" diameter forstner bit. I have no idea who makes it or how much it would cost.

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/...l-Bit-100mm-Diameter-for-Wood.jpg_220x220.jpg



I would think anything around that size would speed the process up but not sure how long the bit would last with the amount of material being removed. Plus youd need a heck of a drill, and bit extensions to get any depth.


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## jdonhowe (Jul 25, 2014)

How 'bout using one of those wheels with chain saw teeth edges that you use with an angle grinder? Not as fine a finish as using a router or Forstner, but hey, it's a planter! Mind you, I've never used one myself!


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

No matter what you plan on doing, if you're going to use power tools, be sure to have somebody start recording with their phone, have a beer before you start, and don't forget to say, "hey y'all, watch this!"


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Our ancestors and the Indians would have burned it out.

George


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## Barn owl (Jul 1, 2013)

Chainsaw


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## Barn owl (Jul 1, 2013)

This came to mind also...a Lancelot would do the job very well. Go to katools.com


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

If nobody's said it yet, how about a hole/cup saw, drill to depth, back out pry/pop out plug. Repeat till surface holed, clear out remains and start again till total depth acquired. Can use bit extender to go deeper if required, Heavy duty 1/2" D handle drill bar would be needed, there's going to be lots of torque, you don't want to be smacked by the drill. I can't speak for the quality of todays EHD drills, I have an old PC 7564 that's still running strong


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## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

Your D-handle comment made me look into new drills, and then I wondered if there were wood chisel attachments for hammer drills. As far as I can tell there aren't, but you can make them, and the combo seems to work fantastically: Chiseling Logs with a Bosch Bulldog.AVI.


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## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

I stand corrected; there is a commercial offering: Bosch HS1440 SDS-plus Shank Hammer Steel - 1" Wood Chisel.


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## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

Wow, Youtube is more useful for searching this kind of stuff than Google... This looks like the canonically "right" tool, sort of like six lancelots at the end of a maneuverable, long stick: power gouge. Would cost way, way more than I can afford, however - just the gouge is like $700, and I don't have a chainsaw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*one word answers....*



Barn owl said:


> Chainsaw




dynamite


C4


shaped charge


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## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

Hi NSA, we love you!

Found a probably even better SDS bit: HS1475 10 In. Gouging Chisel SDS-plus® Bulldog™ Hammer Steel "Typical application includes rough wood removal."










In case anyone is interested, here is the list of all their hammer-drill-assist chisels: SDS-plus® Bulldog™ Hammer Steel | Bosch Power Tools


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## dannywood (May 22, 2015)

Ghidrah said:


> Heavy duty 1/2" D handle drill bar would be needed, there's going to be lots of torque, you don't want to be smacked by the drill.


Thank you *so much* for this sentence. I picked up one of these, and it's clear to me that using my previous drill (no D handle or drill bar, high rpm, not that much torque) would have not worked at all or would have injured me.

:notworthy:


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