# opinion on clamps



## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

Getting ready to do my table top and I need clamps. I've narrowed it down the the Bessey H style pipe clamps, 1/2" or the Harbor Freight 48" bar clamp. 

I know, the HF bar is aluminum not steel, whatever. I have some of their 36" ratcheting clamps as well as some irwin and dewalt hand clamps. But I need larger for a 40" table. Cost wise, the Bessey's a bit more just because of pipe. Thoughts?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I like Pony pipe clamps.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Not mentioned, but I like the HF pipe clamps. I like pipe clamps over bar clamps for any sort of length because if I ever need larger clamps, I just need a longer piece of pipe. The HF ones are something like $8 for the 1/2, throw in another $10 for a 10ft section of black iron pipe and you're at $26 for 2 5 foot clamps.

As far as the bar clamps being aluminium, personally I have a hard time trusting them, but given that pretty much ever company uses aluminium bars for the longer clamps I can't imagine they work too bad. If memory serves grades like 7075 are pretty close to mild steel in terms of strength anyway


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I use Harbor Freight (HF) bar clamps and like them. The fact that they are aluminum vs steel is a plus in my opinion. It makes them lighter to handle.

You DO NOT need to over tighten to the point that steel is required.

George


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

I had read somewhere that sometimes the HF pipe clamps lose the grip on the sliding end. Could be a quality control issue. I figure if I'm saving $$ on pipes, I'd spend more for the better brands. Turns out I only need a couple. My friend has 3 or 4 I could borrow so I only need to make a couple now. The tabletop will be 10" wide and 49" long so I thought I'd clamp one every 8" or so. If possible I'll elevate the top on boards and alternate clamp directions too since pipe clamps don't have much of a throat depth. Unsure if I'll need cauls or not, we'll see.


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## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

I just noticed a new product at Lowe's that lets you join two Irwin one-handed bar clamps to make a longer clamp. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-Plastic-Heavy-Duty-Clamp-Coupler/1000129703 

Might be handy if you already have some Irwins.


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## Rodrat (Aug 31, 2016)

The Harbor Freight bar clamps can be stiffened up with a long square chunk of wood pinned into it.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Rodrat said:


> The Harbor Freight bar clamps can be stiffened up with a long square chunk of wood pinned into it.


Why? If you have to stiffen then you are over tightening.

George


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

I settled on Pony pipe clamps with black iron pipes. The locking plates on the moveable part can be reversed if they wear. Actually after a couple of decades of use, I'm seeing the pipes getting divots in them from the plates, so the plates are wearing just fine. Due to limited space in my small shop, the pipes are 24 inches long. I have 14 of them. I also have 12 additional 24 inch pipes with unions permanently attached and seven 10 inch long ones also with permanently attached unions. With this set up, I can make up clamps of any length to use on any situation. All of this stores in a roll around cart that slides under the work bench when not in use. The cart also holds 6 inch and 18 inch Quick Grip clamps as well as a strap clamp, some "C" clamps, and four corner framing clamps. I made the cart from plywood scraps and some cast off casters.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

A pipe clamp is far superior over man bar clamps when serious clamping is needed like for a table top. 
There are light duty and heavy duty bar clamps for sale but the pipe clamps are more economical vs the heavy duty bar clamp and more dependable than the light duty bar clamps on lengths over 40". A good pipe clamp or heavy duty bar clamp will last for a lifetime. Not so with the lighter duty bar clamps.


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

smart to do shorter lengths with other rods attached to couplings. i'll do that then. most people tend to agree that 1/2" is fine. The woodworking websites say it's not and 3/4" should be the minimum, but again it's clamping pressure not "squishing the crap out of it" pressure.


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## Rodrat (Aug 31, 2016)

GeorgeC said:


> Why? If you have to stiffen then you are over tightening.
> 
> George


The bar clamps from HF twist I've learned. It's not to keep them from bending, it's to keep them from twisting sideways which they do just by touching them. No tightening required.

Making them more ridged insures the clamping surfaces stay parallel.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

mendozer said:


> smart to do shorter lengths with other rods attached to couplings. i'll do that then. most people tend to agree that 1/2" is fine. The woodworking websites say it's not and 3/4" should be the minimum, but again it's clamping pressure not "squishing the crap out of it" pressure.


3/4" pipe will flex less in the longer lengths making the pads less likely to slip off of the wood surface. Also, use black iron pipe, not galvanized. Black iron won't mark, or stain, the raw wood. I also wrap the pipe unions with two layers of PVC electrical tape to provide a bit of a grip when assembling.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I have 4 of these Irwin 1/2" pipe clamps and they're inexpensive. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/332091355812 or you can buy from the Cripes distributing site.
Anyways...you don't have to use threaded pipe which is good, just plain straight 1/2" pipe. They probably make 3/4" versions, but the 1/2" work just fine. 
Edit: They do have 3/4 inch versions, but as far as I can tell Cripes doesn't carry the 3/4..just the 1/2s. 

Also use plenty of the HF clamps. What I DON'T care for are the HF plastic 'quick' clamps.. I'm not going to say they're junk, but until junk comes along they'll do as junk.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

Besides being lighter aluminum doesn't turn woods black from the tannin in them when using wood based glue

But I don't own any aluminum ones yet, still have about 50 Pony's I have collected over the years, and just put waxed paper on the pipes to stop the staining


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I guess you can see I have all of the clamps mentioned.

Recently I did stiffen up several of the HF alum bar clamps. 3/4 plywood was a perfect fit. Look up Paul Sellers on You Tube. He explains it.

I had a pair of the HF pipe clamps...didn't like them. I think I threw them in the trash. They kept slipping.

BTW, if you use pipe clamps, you can always cut shorter pieces and then couple them for wider glue ups. Just remember to get electrical conduit couplings. They are thinner and work well.

Good luck.
Mike


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

thanks for the tip on conduit couplings. I have black iron 1/2" already, about 20 feet leftover from a project. I have a bite on some Pony's from the early 90s on Craigslist for roughly the same price as new Besseys so I might do that. They're 3/4" but I can use an adapter at the pony clamp end. 


Also, No one has mentioned this, but I always scrub down black iron pipe with paint thinner to remove the black staining on the pipes. Cleans up really nice and no more rubbing that stuff off. Never made these clamps before, but I clean the BIP anyways so I don't get dirty using it. I guess you could paint it after if you didn't want raw steel exposed.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Here are a few pics of the HF bar clamps with the plywood inserts.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I mostly use the Jorgenson Pony pipe clamps. Mostly 3/4", but I have a few 1/2" that come in handy, mostly on lengths under 3'. Some of my most used clamps are the Jorgenson 12" bar clamps, which I use to hold things down a lot, or clamp short distances where a pipe clamp won't get into. Stay clear of any plastic clamps, they won't last. 

As regards staining, the black pipe clamps will defintely stain the wood if there is contact to the wood with even a little bit of glue squeeze out in that spot. Wax paper is a good barrier. 

Regarding clamping pressure, that really depends. If you are glueing up a butcher block style counter, for instance, and it's 25" wide and composed of 24 seperate boards, you actually need to put quite a bit of pressure on the clamps in order to transfer enough pressure to the inner joints.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

Thought I'd throw in pictures of my clamp cart. 

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/memb...p-storage-cart-1-17-wide-x-24-long-x-32-high/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/memb...hop-tools/42121-clamp-storage-cart-back-view/


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Rodrat said:


> The bar clamps from HF twist I've learned. It's not to keep them from bending, it's to keep them from twisting sideways which they do just by touching them. No tightening required.
> 
> Making them more ridged insures the clamping surfaces stay parallel.


Somebody has been giving you some bad information. Or if this did happen then the clamps were being improperly used.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

mmwood_1 said:


> I mostly use the Jorgenson Pony pipe clamps. Mostly 3/4", but I have a few 1/2" that come in handy, mostly on lengths under 3'. Some of my most used clamps are the Jorgenson 12" bar clamps, which I use to hold things down a lot, or clamp short distances where a pipe clamp won't get into. Stay clear of any plastic clamps, they won't last.
> 
> As regards staining, the black pipe clamps will defintely stain the wood if there is contact to the wood with even a little bit of glue squeeze out in that spot. Wax paper is a good barrier.
> 
> Regarding clamping pressure, that really depends. If you are glueing up a butcher block style counter, for instance, and it's 25" wide and composed of 24 seperate boards, you actually need to put quite a bit of pressure on the clamps in order to transfer enough pressure to the inner joints.


" you actually need to put quite a bit of pressure on the clamps in order to transfer enough pressure to the inner joints. "

The same pressure is on inner parts as it is on outer parts. There is nothing in the mix that causes a reduction of pressure. If the parts are first properly fitted then all joints should go together at the same time.

George


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

I just finished re-gluing a drawer for our antique secretary (made of wood, not some little old lady). I used the long HF clamps and have had no trouble with them. I also have some of the orange/black clamps. A couple of them slip if you tighten them too tight. Trick is, as mentioned, you don't need a lot of pressure for gluing wood.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

If you need to put so much pressure on the wood to bend the clamps to get a proper joint, you might need to work on your joinery


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## Rodrat (Aug 31, 2016)

GeorgeC said:


> Somebody has been giving you some bad information. Or if this did happen then the clamps were being improperly used.
> 
> George


I dont know. Just from my own personal use, the smallest turn of the handle causes them to sway.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Rodrat said:


> I dont know. Just from my own personal use, the smallest turn of the handle causes them to sway.


You need to work on your technique.

By the way, what does "sway" mean?

George


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## Rodrat (Aug 31, 2016)

GeorgeC said:


> You need to work on your technique.
> 
> By the way, what does "sway" mean?
> 
> George


What I mean is it tries to spiral and twist as I touch it. 

It could be that I just have a particularly bad one or something.


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

OK clearly there are some issues regarding either the use of certain clamps or quality control from the manufacturer. The ratcheting clamps I have work well for their uses. I have 1 or 2 from different brands that just suck in comparison to the others. Moot point. I wanted to gather information on clamp choices and I got it. Thanks for all the advice and tips from your experiences.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Rodrat said:


> What I mean is it tries to spiral and twist as I touch it.
> 
> It could be that I just have a particularly bad one or something.


It must be "haunted." Or at least have some type of alien force acting upon it.

On the other hand, if you are trying to use only one hand to tighten it your technique is the problem. Those aluminum clamps are inherently light. When you try to turn the handle to tighten the screw there is no large angular inertia(cuch as there would be on heavy iron clamps) to keep them stable. 

If you are right handed you have to use your left hand to hold the clamp steady until you have at least slight clamping pressure.

Use them correctly and you will have no problem.

George


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

regarding marking wood, does anyone else strip the coating with paint thinner first? Or paint the metal even?


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

I bought the pipe clamp ends, with feet - and use 3/4 aluminum electrical pipe/conduit. 
no rust, light weight. $10 for a 10 ft length - cheaper than black iron at HD!

clamp ends get a really good / quick / easy bite - that's the one downside - now and then I have to file down the dings for smooth action. but the ease of handling makes up for that.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

mendozer said:


> regarding marking wood, does anyone else strip the coating with paint thinner first? Or paint the metal even?


I was just downstairs unclamping a glue up. The black iron pipe I have is just like it came from the store. I noticed some of the pipes I have for extensions have what looks like a clear coating on them. All of the pipes that are mounted on the Pony head ends are not. I have four units that were inherited from my Father-In-Law and they are showing some faint rust as they were stored in his garage. I'll probably give them a rub down with a non-woven pad and a coating of wipe on varnish the next time I finish a piece. These pipes are well over 20 years old, so I'm not worrying about their condition. I also don't worry about glue marking as I don't let that situation occur.


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

I picked up some Bessey clamps. Simple red spray paint will cover my pipes and I never will have to worry about staining or rusting.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Rodrat said:


> What I mean is it tries to spiral and twist as I touch it.
> 
> It could be that I just have a particularly bad one or something.


When your tightening is the thread and cap spinning together or independently?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Rodrat said:


> What I mean is it tries to spiral and twist as I touch it.
> 
> It could be that I just have a particularly bad one or something.


WOW!!!

You must have some touch!!!

George


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Catpower said:


> If you need to put so much pressure on the wood to bend the clamps to get a proper joint, you might need to work on your joinery


Bend what kind of clamp?


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

All but the 4 in the back are HF clamps and only 2 of the HF needed stiffening. The other 4 pipe clamps are from cripes distributing, Irwin type that do not require threading, just straight 1/2" pipe and they've never slipped. 
I've never run into a problem with any of these except one of the bar clamps sticks in one of the acme threads a tiny bit. Someday I might get around to filing it down a hair when the moon comes over the mountain or something like that..
If you have a bunch of cash just burning a hole in your pocket by all means go pay the extra for the Cadillac of clamps, but...I kind of doubt I would even if my dad suddenly tells me he has a rich brother who only loves me and has one foot in the grave and the other on an old rotten banana peel.


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## Rodrat (Aug 31, 2016)

Rebelwork said:


> When your tightening is the thread and cap spinning together or independently?


Could you elaborate on that? Not quite sure what you mean.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

Rebelwork said:


> Bend what kind of clamp?



Pretty much any clamp, if you do a good job of jointery it doesn't take a whole lot of pressure to get good glue squeeze out


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

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