# 8' stock but 9' ceiling



## whirichardson (Aug 29, 2008)

I'm doing some built-in book cases and was desiging along just fine until I realized I my design was based on using standard 8'x4' furniture grade plywood and my house has 9' ceilings. These have to be floor to ceiling topped with Crown moulding (no I won't make a 9" moulding with a 3' base). Ideas? What do any of you commerical trim folks do?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

whirichardson said:


> I'm doing some built-in book cases and was desiging along just fine until I realized I my design was based on using standard 8'x4' furniture grade plywood and my house has 9' ceilings. These have to be floor to ceiling topped with Crown moulding (no I won't make a 9" moulding with a 3' base). Ideas? What do any of you commerical trim folks do?



If it's necessary to have more than 8' of hardwood plywood, I'll buy 10' or veneer 10' stock, or join pieces of 8' stock and veneer them. Or, if possible, I'll design in a horizontal break with some profiled moulding somewhere to get the extra height, and this way use 8' material.


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Simply design the cabinets with a 36" high counter area...then back-set the upper cabinets. This is a good practice in keeping in mind...The Golden Rectangle. I don`t know what commercial applacation has to do with residential application. I have not seen your design. You may have to re-design! Rick


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## whirichardson (Aug 29, 2008)

*more info*

Thanks for the feedback and ideas. What I'll be building are floor to ceiling built-in bookcases on one wall of a family room with a fireplace in the center of the wall. On the left adjoining wall I will build more floor to ceiling bookshelves and one section will include a cabinet base with a shelving top. I'll build these as modules in sections to either install on a wall section or to be connected into a compete wall module. I don't like using mdf (dust, weight, hassel moving) but the units will be painted white to match the interior trim so engineered wood will be fine.

So since my walls are 9 ft. and my case base will be 3" - 4" for the bookcases my case sides need to be a bit higher than 8 ft.


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Again! Your design is going to have to change! Unless you can incorperate some horizonical deffinition lines...such as a nosing or molding of some sort. If not...build a bulk-head. If the cabs. are wall to wall...and you have a mantle to build...use that to hide the seam. To help you...I need more information. Rick


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## whirichardson (Aug 29, 2008)

pianoman said:


> Again! Your design is going to have to change! Unless you can incorperate some horizonical deffinition lines...such as a nosing or molding of some sort. If not...build a bulk-head. If the cabs. are wall to wall...and you have a mantle to build...use that to hide the seam. To help you...I need more information. Rick


Thanks. I understand it's kind of hard to describe in words what is often a drawing. I guess i need to try to learn sketchup again. I tried it about 2 yrs ago and it was too confusing and or time consuming to get a basic bookshelf drawn. anyway... I'll consider the horizontal line options possibly for hiding some extra length. 

The orginal design was going to be traditional library looking cabinet bases with shelf setbacks (it's called?) but I have literally hundreds of books ranging from 2008 to 1768. So I changed the design to have more floor to ceiling shelving because I really need it. 

Your right too there won't be many sides that will actually show.


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