# Prepping poplar for paint.



## Slow Eddie

Gentlemen,

I'm a newbie, so go easy on me. I've built a fireplace mantel out of poplar that I now need to paint. It is held together by 15 gauge finish nails and glue. I'm assuming these are the steps:

1. Fill finish nail holes with wood filler and sand (what type of wood filler and what grit paper?). 

2. Prime and sand (Do I use a special primer or will typical interior primer such as killz brand be ok? What grit should I sand with before applying top coat?).

3. Apply top coat (again, will regular Behr brand interior paint work or do I need something special?).

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Eddie


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## SeniorSitizen

Slow Eddie said:


> Gentlemen,
> 
> I'm a newbie, so go easy on me. I've built a fireplace mantel out of poplar that I now need to paint. It is held together by 15 gauge finish nails and glue. I'm assuming these are the steps:
> 
> 1. Fill finish nail holes with wood filler and sand (what type of wood filler and what grit paper?).
> 
> 2. Prime and sand (Do I use a special primer or will typical interior primer such as killz brand be ok? What grit should I sand with before applying top coat?).
> 
> 3. Apply top coat (again, will regular Behr brand interior paint work or do I need something special?).
> 
> Thanks for any and all suggestions.
> 
> Eddie


Let me start by stating up front that primers have never really impressed me all that much. I've found that material that paint won't adhere to primers won't either. Also artists used Poplar wood long before canvas was invented so it just may have something going for it. You chose a mighty fine species of lumber for your project to paint. I would apply enough paint coats until I got the result I like.

Wood filler and paint. Ask 10 people and get that many different answers as to which brands and types. I would probably use outdoor semi gloss for durability.

Sanding with 180 grit is as fine as I'd want for a mantle with paint.


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## tcleve4911

Use an oil based primer with a latex top coat.
Prime and let dry.
Lightly sand with 120 to remove raised grain.
Vacuum and tack cloth to get rid of any dust.
Apply 1st coat of finish
Let dry completely
Lightly sand with 220 to get rid of any bumps.
You should run your hand over the sanded area to feel the smoothness.
Vacuum and tack cloth
Apply 2nd coat......done

That's how I've done it with great results.....others have their methods


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## Steve Neul

I would fill the nail holes with Famowood or equilivant putty and sand it first with 80x paper, followed by 120x paper, and finished with 180x paper. 

I prefer to finish woodwork and cabinets with an oil based enamel. I would start with Kilz original oil based primer, then sand it with 180x paper and apply a second coat. Then sand it with 220 grit paper and apply a coat of enamel. I like Southwest Builders enamel sold by Sherwin Williams. After the first coat dries if there is any roughness I sand it with 220x paper, sometimes just in spots and apply a second coat. The same procedure could be used with latex paint however a little extra sanding between coats might be necessary.


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## Slow Eddie

Whoooaa I didn't know what I was getting into with the kilz oil based primer. Imagine my surprise when I decided to clean my brushes! Haha.


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## Fred Hargis

Cleaning your brushes of any oil based finish really isn't that hard. Take 3 containers, each filled maybe 1/2 with paint thinner. It pays the have a spray bottle oif thinner available as well. Before the first dip, spray the bristles (filaments) with the spray bottle and wipe the excess finish off with a paper towel, cloth, whatever. Then put the brush in the first container, twirling it back and forth in the palm of your hands. I also reach in (wearing nitrile gloves) and work the thinner into the bristles. Squeze all the thinner you can out of the brush and go to the next container. Repeat the process, same with the third. At this point the brush should be clean of finish. When using varnish, I'll rinse it with some lacquer thinner to break down the thinner a little, followed by a good washing in Dawn and water. Keep the containers of thinner for future use, the contaminants will settle to the bottom. Sounds like a PITA, and it is, but it saves expensive bushes when needed. Another approach would be to use disposable brushes...and I will do that when I'm less concerned about the finish quality.


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## Bill White 2

I primarily use Zinnser Seal Coat shellac as a sealer/primer. Dumb simple to use. Timber Mate wood filler for nail holes.
After I lightly wet the wood to raise the grain, sand to 150/180, apply the Seal Coat, lightly sand with 220, and paint.
Good brushes are a must if ya can't spray.
Bill


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