# Saw Blade-How many tooth?Recommendations please



## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

I'm shopping for a new saw blade for my table saw and wanted to ask your opinions. I have a Craftsman table saw, nothing fancy, but it gets the job done. I've ripped hundreds, if not thousands of board feet on the blade that was in there, think it was a 32 tooth.

I want to get a good all around blade, so I'm curious how many teeth I should get? Would 40 be a good count to let me rip a lot of different materials?

I'm thinking i'll go with a Freud Diablo blade, since I love those blades in all of my chop and circular saws.

Anyone recommend I go with a 50 tooth instead of a 40, or a combination type blade? A thin kerf might be ideal since my table saw isn't the greatest.

What I will be using the blade for:
Right now I need to rip a picture frame so I need something that will leave a nice clean edge. Usually I am ripping trim (1X4's) or other around the house DIY type stuff. No professional work here, but I like to think some of my work comes out just as good 

I do have a built-in-closet project in mind that i'll be using Red Oak or Birch plywood and will need to do a lot of 3/4" ripping.

ALL FEEDBACK WELCOME!

Here are a few I am eyeing:

Freud D1040A - 40 Tooth - $29.99
Freud D1040A Diablo 10-Inch 40-Tooth ATB General Purpose Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating,: Amazon.com: Home Improvement

Freud D1050X - 50 Tooth - $36.99
Amazon.com: Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement

Freud LU83R010 - 50 Tooth - $48.24
Amazon.com: Freud LU83R010 10-Inch 50 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement

Freud LU88R010 - 60 Tooth - $49.99
Heard this was an awesome crosscut AND Ripping blade:
Amazon.com: Freud LU88R010 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Crosscutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement
-Only reason why I'm considering this blade is because someone did a test and posted it online and this board scored with flying colors for a lot of tasks. Just not sure if its too many teeth.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I have a 40 tooth teflon on my saw most of the time. I like the feflon coated blades better because they run quieter.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Unless I'm doing a lot of pure ripping, I use a Freud thin kerf combination blade.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I think are right where you want to be with a 40 tooth. I just recently picked up one of those Onrud 50 tooth off eBay. Great price but I'm not as happy with my rip cuts as I was with the OEM 36(?) tooth blade.:smile:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

jschaben said:


> I think are right where you want to be with a 40 tooth. I just recently picked up one of those Onrud 50 tooth off eBay. Great price but I'm not as happy with my rip cuts as I was with the OEM 36(?) tooth blade.:smile:


Which 50? I keep one of a dozen Onsrud thin kerf 50t ATB+R blades in my TS and rotate them through a sharpening regiment. I really do like them and the price was right. I talked to them directly and a wheel n deal buy-it-now for em for a bit more than shipping...

This is the blade is was about to recommend and then saw your comment 

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

firemedic said:


> Which 50? I keep one of a dozen Onsrud thin kerf 50t ATB+R blades in my TS and rotate them through a sharpening regiment. I really do like them and the price was right. I talked to them directly and a wheel n deal buy-it-now for em for a bit more than shipping...
> 
> This is the blade is was about to recommend and then saw your comment
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...



+1... I keep 50 tooth blades in my T/S. :smile:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I'd definitely go with a thin kerf blade for that saw. Fewer teeth means a faster, more efficient, but rougher cut. More teeth means a cleaner cut but with more resitance....too many teeth with bog the saw more easily and will lead to more burning. 

40T to 50T is generally the happy medium for a single blade that will cover a lot of cutting tasks reasonably well, but note that it neither rips as efficiently as a rip blade, nor cuts as cleanly as a dedicated crosscut blade. Most of the 40T ATB general purpose blades I've used cut a little cleaner and rip a tad more efficiently than most of the 50T ATB/R blades, but that's not an absolute statement....there are exceptions like the 50T Infinity 010-150 Combomax Lite. 

The Freud LU88R010 Industrial blade is a great clean cutting blade that's actually more versatile than most 60T crosscut blades because it has a fairly steep hook angle that helps it rip more efficiently. It's really good as a general purpose blade in materials up to an inch or so, which are the most common thicknesses. It won't rip efficiently in thicker materials though....much over an inch, maybe 1.25" will labor your saw a more. If you don't mind spending a little extra money, I do think you'll get better results going with the LU88 then adding a 24T ripper like the Freud Diablo D1024 for $27....that's the direction I'd recommend. You could always grab the LU88 and pick up the D1024 when needed.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

firemedic said:


> Which 50? I keep one of a dozen Onsrud thin kerf 50t ATB+R blades in my TS and rotate them through a sharpening regiment. I really do like them and the price was right. I talked to them directly and a wheel n deal buy-it-now for em for a bit more than shipping...
> 
> This is the blade is was about to recommend and then saw your comment
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...


Hi Tom - This is the one I got, Onsrud COM-10-098-50 


http://www.ebay.com/itm/220949443718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Not a terrible blade by any means, I was just expecting a better finish I guess. I also have to say that the Ridgid OEM blade that came on the 4510 is waaay better than the run of the mill OEM also.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi Tom - This is the one I got, Onsrud COM-10-098-50
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/220949443718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> Not a terrible blade by any means, I was just expecting a better finish I guess. I also have to say that the Ridgid OEM blade that came on the 4510 is waaay better than the run of the mill OEM also.


That's the one!

Interesting that you've had trouble with it! I wonder what's up? You say the OEM blade was better so I'm assuming it's not an alignment issue... Hmmm

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

firemedic said:


> That's the one!
> 
> Interesting that you've had trouble with it! I wonder what's up? You say the OEM blade was better so I'm assuming it's not an alignment issue... Hmmm
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...


Hi Tom - I'm just chalking it up to unrealistic expectations maybe. My blade for "quality" cuts is a Fusion and I think I may have been expecting like results. 
Incidentally I picked up a couple of those Onsrud chipbreaker upcut router bits and they are truly awesome. Arguably the sharpest router bits I've ever owned. Made incredibly clean dados in a project I have been working on with AC plywood and cut it very quickly too. Those were the real deal at $12 per.:yes:


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

I've used a lot of different saw blades in the last forty + years. About five years ago or so I bought the Freud 10" 60t ATB thin Kerf blade from HD for about $40. I've been so happy with this blade that it is the only blade I've bought since. It's the only type of blade I use anymore. It does all types of cuts with excellent results on my 3HP Grizzly TS. IMHO it is the best value of any blade I've ever bought. A fresh blade will cross cut veneer plywood just fine with a zero cl. insert. I use the one in most need of a sharpening for ripping.

Some of the blades mentioned on this thread I have not used.

Bret


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Are you still with us Handy Frank?


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## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

knotscott said:


> Are you still with us Handy Frank?


Still here! Had my subscription set to send 1 email per day, so I didn't realize there were all these responses, thank you!

Sounds like I should definitely go thin kerf, and the 40-60 tooth based on who is recommending. That LU88 blade is the one that I saw had awesome reviews, maybe i'll go with that one. I don't ever rip anything over 3/4" truly, so I should be in good limits with that one. Is 60 tooth too much?

If you had to recommend a 40 or 50 tooth, would it be the Freud LU83R010?

I just trimmed out about half of my house so I don't expect to be a lot of ripping soon, but I will have the occasional rip to do. I don't do any cross cutting on my table saw, but if the blade is ideal on a 10" Dewalt chop saw I could use it there. Probably better off with a separate blade for the chop saw, right?


THANKS TO EVERYONE SO FAR!:thumbsup:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

HandyFrank said:


> Still here! Had my subscription set to send 1 email per day, so I didn't realize there were all these responses, thank you!
> 
> Sounds like I should definitely go thin kerf, and the 40-60 tooth based on who is recommending. That LU88 blade is the one that I saw had awesome reviews, maybe i'll go with that one. I don't ever rip anything over 3/4" truly, so I should be in good limits with that one. Is 60 tooth too much?
> 
> ...


Hi Frank - I think you picked a winner with that one. The specs look very good on it, at least in my opinion. 
http://www.freudtools.com/p-45-thin-kerf-combinationbr-nbsp.aspx


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

HandyFrank said:


> ....If you had to recommend a 40 or 50 tooth, would it be the Freud LU83R010? ...


I think you'll like the LU83. It's a very versatile blade that does well in a lot of situations and is easy to get good results with, but it wouldn't necessarily be my top choice. 

If you want to stick with the Freud line, their 40T Freud Fusion thin kerf is well worth a good look...it's from their top Premier line and is the cleanest cutting general purpose/combo blade they offer. It runs about $80 and takes you to the next level for this type of blade. It will leave a very polished edge and has very low tearout...it'll also go to town in plywood. 

With that said, if you want a little cleaner cutting performance, the LU88 leaves a better cut than the vast majority of 40T or 50T blades out there. The LU88 would be ok in your chop saw, as long as it's not a sliding chop saw. 

I know this is a lot of info to digest, but look at this way... with the blades you've mentioned, you're all but assured a good performer for your saw. We're just trying to help you fine tune the choices.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

This is what I use. 60 teeth is just right for a 3 hp saw, more teeth than that and you start getting diminishing returns and more drag and heat. 

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

Bret


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## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

Thanks again for all the great recommendations! knotscott agreed it is a lot of info, but it seems like you have all helped me confirm a few top notch blades. The $80 fusion sounds great, but I don't do enough cutting to invest that much since I sometimes lend my table saw out to my brother/family and who knows what type of stock will get pushed through it. I figure a sub $50 blade will do me right, and I can easily replace it without feeling too bad it if gets dulled out somehow. About my chop saw, I have a standard 10" Dewalt compound miter saw, non-sliding.

jschaben, thanks for confirming the LU83 is a good blade that should fit me well.

Lola Ranch, I considered the D1060X but it isn't thin kerf, so i've decided to not get this one.

Now, with all this knowledge on the table and considering what i'll be using it for, If you all had to choose between the LU83 being a combination blade, or the LU88 as a blade that seems to rate top notch at many things, which would it be??? Hard core specs for each are at the links below.

LU83:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-45-thin-kerf-combinationbr-nbsp.aspx

LU88:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-19-thin-kerf-fine-finish-crosscutbr-nbsp.aspx


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

HandyFrank said:


> Thanks again for all the great recommendations! knotscott agreed it is a lot of info, but it seems like you have all helped me confirm a few top notch blades. The $80 fusion sounds great, but I don't do enough cutting to invest that much since I sometimes lend my table saw out to my brother/family and who knows what type of stock will get pushed through it. I figure a sub $50 blade will do me right, and I can easily replace it without feeling too bad it if gets dulled out somehow. About my chop saw, I have a standard 10" Dewalt compound miter saw, non-sliding.
> 
> jschaben, thanks for confirming the LU83 is a good blade that should fit me well.
> 
> ...


 
Hi Frank - Freud makes a lot of decisions for you on their website, or, at least makes them easier. I pay attention to the little graphic on each webpage for saw blades. My interpretation is that the LU83 would make a better combination blade. I uploaded the chart from the 88. I find that Freud has done an excellent job in that those charts pretty accurately represent what you can expect.:smile:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The D1060X is indeed a thin kerf blade (0.098" or ~ 3/32")...you'll find that it's very similar to the LU88, but has less carbide. 

from the Freud Diablo website:
_Item#__Diameter__Machine Use__Application__Teeth__Arbor__Kerf__Hook
Angle_ _D1060X__10"__Miter Saw, Table Saw__Fine Finish__60 Hi-ATB__5/8"__.098"__15º_

Which to get is really up to you, and what results you want...you'll get cleaner cuts and good versatility with the LU88 or D1060X. You'll get better versatility and faster rips with the LU83 but with slightly more blades marks and more tearout on ply and fine crosscuts.


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## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

Thanks again for all the feedback everyone. Going to look through the specs one last time (Or flip a coin) and then pull the trigger. I'll post to let everyone know which I chose, and then once I use it for the first time will report how it does.


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## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

Had another related question comparing these blades. So it seems the LU series have more carbide than the Diablo blades. Does more carbide mean a better sharper cut? Or does it just mean it can be resharpened more? The reason I ask is because I don't have many resharpeners around and the last time I asked a place that subs it out they wanted $20 for a 24 tooth blade so a 50 or 60 tooth will be costly to resharpened. My thought is I migh be better off just going with the diablo series and plan to get a new one when it dulls.

Any knowledge on this appreciated


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

I am joining this party late but wanted to add a perspective I haven't seen yet.
In a non production shop being done fast isn't always the biggest issue. I have two Freud blades a 60T cross cut and separate glue line rip blade. Changing them doesnt take long and it allows the blade to do best what it was designed for.
Only the 60 is thin kerf.
They were about $40 each so about the same as an 80$ combo blade you ruled out but having the right tool for the job is worth it to me.
My table saw doesn't get loaned out, at least not out of my sight. My circular saw does on occasion. For those times I put a different blade on so my 80T veneer blade doesn't end up cutting pressure treated fence posts.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

HandyFrank said:


> Had another related question comparing these blades. So it seems the LU series have more carbide than the Diablo blades. Does more carbide mean a better sharper cut? Or does it just mean it can be resharpened more? The reason I ask is because I don't have many resharpeners around and the last time I asked a place that subs it out they wanted $20 for a 24 tooth blade so a 50 or 60 tooth will be costly to resharpened. My thought is I migh be better off just going with the diablo series and plan to get a new one when it dulls.
> 
> Any knowledge on this appreciated


More carbide doesn't effect cut quality...just number of times it can be resharpened. Sometimes it's an indicator of overall quality, but not so much in this case. There can some minor differences in how complex the anti-vibration/anti-noise slots are, which may effect cut quality a bit, but it can also vary by which model year each of the blades actually is so it's not worth putting much emphasis on. The Diablo blades can still be resharpened, just not as many times without replacement. 

The D1060 is the closest Diablo equivalent to the LU88R010, and the D1050 is closest equivalent to the LU83R010.


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## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

Thanks to you all for the extra feedback. I agree DST on swapping blades but I don't cut enough so I'll go with one blade and use that mainly till a job calls for something more specific.

After contemplating the 4 blades mentioned, I decided on either the Diablo D1050X or D1060X since I don't plan to resharpen. Knotscott thanks for confirming these are close to the LU series.

Is one blade better at ripping veneer plywood better than the other? Will the D1060X be slightly better since it has more teeth? The saw is set mainly for ripping with the occasional combo cut.

The LU83 says no stabilizer is needed, does the LU88 definitely need a stabilizer? Not sure if my saw has one but I don't think since it had a regular kerf blade right now.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

The 60 will give you a leaner cut on a veneer plywood but the 50 will be better if you are only going to get one blade. Ripping solid stock with that 60 tooth will be tough and you will likely get a pretty hot blade. Doesn't take much to scorch cherry.
When you do cut plywood you can help yourself by taping the cut line with masking tape and cutting thru it. Also remember to keep the good face up.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

HandyFrank said:


> Thanks to you all for the extra feedback. I agree DST on swapping blades but I don't cut enough so I'll go with one blade and use that mainly till a job calls for something more specific.
> 
> After contemplating the 4 blades mentioned, I decided on either the Diablo D1050X or D1060X since I don't plan to resharpen. Knotscott thanks for confirming these are close to the LU series.
> 
> ...


The D1060 should do better in plywood...when you cut plywood, you're actually ripping and crosscutting at the same time due to the orientation of the different layers....more teeth, plus the top bevel on all teeth should help reduce tearout....so will a zero clearance insert, taping, and/or prescoring. 

If your arbor spins true with little runout or vibration, you really sholdn't "need" a stabilizer with either blade. They can help, but they're really more of a bandaid for a bigger issue, so I don't recommend spending the money, unless you see an obvious issue.


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## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

knotscott said:


> The Freud LU88R010 Industrial blade is a great clean cutting blade that's actually more versatile than most 60T crosscut blades because it has a fairly steep hook angle that helps it rip more efficiently. It's really good as a general purpose blade in materials up to an inch or so, which are the most common thicknesses. It won't rip efficiently in thicker materials though....much over an inch, maybe 1.25" will labor your saw a more. If you don't mind spending a little extra money, I do think you'll get better results going with the LU88 then adding a 24T ripper like the Freud Diablo D1024 for $27....that's the direction I'd recommend. You could always grab the LU88 and pick up the D1024 when needed.



I'm still at it!  Trying to decide.

I think i've decided on the D1060X for the finer cuts. I'm also considering your recommendation and pick up a D1024 for hard core ripping. I checked last night and I have a 24 tooth blade and that is what I've done all my work on so why not keep that around. The reviews on Amazon for the D1024 are not great, but the Freud LU87R010 ones are superb. I'm guessing this again is the same blade but the LU is industrial, right? Wondering why the D1024 hasn't pleased people then since all the other Diablo's are super positive.

So with the choice of 2 blades, think the D1060X and the D1024/LU87R010 are the best for me to cover a lot of ground? The others I was considering were the D1050 and D1040. 

Last thought, you originally mentioned the Fusion blade. Is that 1 blade a better choice for ripping AND finish work, or should I go with the 2 separates like the D1060X and D1024/Freud LU87R010 instead?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

IF the initially quality of two blades is similar (it is in this case), separate task specific blades will nearly always have an advantage over a blade designed to do many tasks when you're using them for the specific task they were designed for. The downside is that the task specific blade is usually worse in tasks outside of it's intended range of operation. That means you need to change your task specific blade to a different task specific blade when the task changes, which requires you to have more than one blade available. 

Saving myself some typing, here's an excerpt from a blog I wrote on choosing saw blades:

"_Key Decisions:
Blade selection is very much proprietary to your saw and what you cut. One of the early decisions should be to choose which types of blades are best for your situation. You can choose separate task specific blades that perform very well in a narrow operating range, or more of a “do-all” general purpose blade that will give “good” results in most applications but excel at none, or choose a variation that combines both philosophies. These philosophies all have merit depending on the situation, your preference, budget, and cutting objectives. A decent purebred 60-80 tooth crosscut blade will certainly make “cleaner” crosscuts than a 30, 40 or 50 tooth general purpose blade of comparable quality. Inversely, a 24 tooth bulk ripper will certainly be more efficient at ripping thick material than the general purpose (GP) style blade. The key to “better” depends on how you define that term. Better performance in one aspect of cutting doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a better choice overall. Consider both sides of the equation before making a decision.

Taking the approach of using task specific blades requires owning at least two blades that each excel in a limited operating region, and are typically unacceptable for tasks outside of their intended scope. They also require blade changes for each different task for optimum results. Two task-specific blades (typically a 24T ripper and a 60T or 80T crosscutter) will generally stay sharp longer than a single general purpose blade because they share the work load, but will cost more upfront and will also cost more to re-sharpen when the time comes. A general purpose blade will neither rip as efficiently as a true rip blade nor crosscut as cleanly as a dedicated crosscut blade, but you may find that it’s more than acceptable at doing both tasks for most situations. A valid argument in favor of using one high quality general purpose blade is that the GP blade leaves a cleaner edge than the rip blade, crosscuts faster than a crosscut blade, and does so with the convenience and cost of using one blade. Most higher quality general purpose blades will leave a glue ready edge, which is often as good as it needs to be. If you happen to do a lot of specialty cutting of fine veneered plywoods, veneers, melamine, MDF, plastics, etc., a blade made specifically for these materials is definitely recommended. If you tend to rip very thick dense materials regularly, then a dedicated ripping blade is a wise choice for you right from the start. Sooner a later a decent general purpose blade will be useful, so it’s always a reasonable starting point IMO, even if you pursue separates later.

Breaking from convention, it’s also possible to choose separate blades that offer different regions of excellence than the conventional dedicated 24T bulk ripper and 80T fine crosscut blade. Even though the majority of general purpose/combination blades have 40T or 50T, there are some blades with 30T and 60T that offer more versatility than standard 24T and 80T separates, and can be used in a somewhat limited general purpose capacity. A 30T blade with an ATB grind and a steep positive hook angle (like the Forrest 30T WWII & DeWalt DW7653) will rip more efficiently than comparably designed 40T general purpose blade in materials up to 3” (given suitable power), will make cleaner rips than a standard 24T ripper, and may even crosscut acceptably well in many situations. The weakness of the 30T blade is that it won’t perform well for fine crosscut or fine plywood type duties, but it will give “glue line” cuts and more versatility than a standard 24T ripper, which potentially means fewer blade changes and acceptable performance in a wider region. A good blade of this type will be suitable for wide range of tasks that don’t require fine finish cuts. Inversely, a good quality 60T ATB or Hi-ATB blade with a positive hook angle (like the Forrest WWI, Infinity 010-060, or Freud LU88) will make cleaner rips up to ~ 1-1/4”, will make cleaner crosscuts and ply cuts than a conventional 40T ATB general purpose or 50T ATB/R combo blade, and is a good choice where cleaner cuts and lower ripping efficiency are suitable. The weakness of the 60T blade will be loss of efficiency in thicker ripping, having more tendency for bogging of the saw and burning. The combination of the 30T and 60T blades offers increased range over a standard 40T or 50T GP blade, better versatility than standard 24T and 80T separates, and longer edge life between sharpenings. Depending on your situation, a good 30T or 60T blade may be suitable as the only blade you’ll need, and the two blades combined as a set will “tag-team” to cover a very wide range of tasks extremely well, yet either can still be left on the saw with little need to be changed for most tasks….sort of a “best of both worlds” scenario."_

To answer your specific question about the D1024 being the same as the LU87....not in this case. The D1024 is somewhat similar but there are notable differences. The LU87 has a flat top grind (FTG), while the D1024 has an alternative top bevel grind (ATB). The FTG blade is more efficient at removing large chunks of material for ripping, plus it leaves a flat bottom. As fas as negative reviews go...I can only guess that people were expecting a clean cut, which a 24T blade won't really give.

The Fusion is a very clean cutting general purpose blade...it has an unusual grind, in that it has a Hi-ATB grind on top (essentially a more exaggerated ATB grind of > 25°), and a dual side grind. The Hi-ATB is known to have less tearout on crosscuts, ply, and many sheet goods than any other grind....it's also known to wear faster due to those pointy tips. A hobbyist's volumes should still get you a year or so of good service between sharpenings depending on your volumes and other factors that effect wear. The dual side grind results in longer contact with the edges of the wood, so you get a more polished edge....the downside is that it's more likely to burn in thicker rips or materials that are more prone to burning....you can reduce burning by raising the blade higher, keeping the blade clean, and using flat straight stock.


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## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

knotscott said:


> IF the initially quality of two blades is similar (it is in this case), separate task specific blades will nearly always have an advantage over a blade designed to do many tasks when you're using them for the specific task they were designed for. The downside is that the task specific blade is usually worse in tasks outside of it's intended range of operation. That means you need to change your task specific blade to a different task specific blade when the task changes, which requires you to have more than one blade available.
> 
> Saving myself some typing, here's an excerpt from a blog I wrote on choosing saw blades


Great info!
I guess after reading that it helps me understand that 1 blade IS ideal in most cases, and then separates play their part well. I'm probably a 1 blade type guy now that I think about it since I've been using a 24 tooth blade that came with the saw for many years and it got the job done. Thinking of what I've cut over the years, it would be:
-1X4 to 1X6 boards
-Plywood of all types (Nothing overly expensive yet)
-2X4's - I've ripped them down in various ways needed
-The random piece that either I needed ripped or someone else

Would the D1050X be the best blade since the D1060/LU88 might not allow thick stock if I ever needed to rip a 2X4?

I'm trying to avoid needing more than one blade since I sometimes don't use my table saw for years, so I want a blade that can handle just about anything I throw at it decent enough. Is the D1050 that blade?

I figure if I need to rip something specific, i'll then just get a more specific blade later. Guess i'm just looking for the most versatile all around blade to start with.

Any final feedback? Then i'm going to hit the order button!!!


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

HandyFrank said:


> Great info!
> I guess after reading that it helps me understand that 1 blade IS ideal in most cases, and then separates play their part well. I'm probably a 1 blade type guy now that I think about it since I've been using a 24 tooth blade that came with the saw for many years and it got the job done. Thinking of what I've cut over the years, it would be:
> -1X4 to 1X6 boards
> -Plywood of all types (Nothing overly expensive yet)
> ...


Hi - from what it sounds like you want, I'd recommend this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-COM-...546?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab4a1f01a
I put one on a couple of weeks ago and, while I was a bit disappointed in the rip cuts, cross cuts were very good. Rips weren't horrible, just not as good as I had hoped. Price is quite a bit cheaper and it has pretty fair sized carbide chips if you ever want to sharpen it. It also does very good on plywood. If you want to get into fine finish work later, you can always upgrade. I use this for my daily cutter. I use the Freud Fusion for rips and Freud LU79 for crosscuts when I want to get picky:smile:


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## HandyFrank (Mar 13, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Hi - from what it sounds like you want, I'd recommend this one
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-COM-...546?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab4a1f01a
> I put one on a couple of weeks ago and, while I was a bit disappointed in the rip cuts, cross cuts were very good. Rips weren't horrible, just not as good as I had hoped. Price is quite a bit cheaper and it has pretty fair sized carbide chips if you ever want to sharpen it. It also does very good on plywood. If you want to get into fine finish work later, you can always upgrade. I use this for my daily cutter. I use the Freud Fusion for rips and Freud LU79 for crosscuts when I want to get picky:smile:


Thanks for the recommendation, that blade is definitely priced right. I think I want to stick with a Freud since I've had good experience with them, and they seem to make great blades at a decent price point. I'm still hung up on the LU88 since Scott says that is top notch in his review (and in this thread), I'm just worried I might need to rip the occasional 2X4 (Can't even remember if Ive actually ever done this) so I was considering the D1050X since it may be a bit more forgiving all around as a general purpose blade. Then again that LU88/D1060X is still tempting.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

HandyFrank said:


> Thanks for the recommendation, that blade is definitely priced right. I think I want to stick with a Freud since I've had good experience with them, and they seem to make great blades at a decent price point. I'm still hung up on the LU88 since Scott says that is top notch in his review (and in this thread), I'm just worried I might need to rip the occasional 2X4 (Can't even remember if Ive actually ever done this) so I was considering the D1050X since it may be a bit more forgiving all around as a general purpose blade. Then again that LU88/D1060X is still tempting.


Hi Frank - sounds like your getting in a loop here. Either of those blades will do the job for you. Occasionally ripping a 2x4 with a 60 tooth blade isn't going to hurt anything. Most of my blades are Freud but I couldn't pass up the price for this Onsrud and, for a daily runner it seems to be working out fine.:yes:


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