# dado blades versus router bit?



## Duncancruiser (Dec 6, 2011)

I'm making a hope chest outta cedar. I want to join the front and back to the sides using ( I think it is a box joint). Not too sure. The joint where you dado one end and glue the other end into the dado. Would it be better to use 1/4" router bit or my dado blades. And would you do each 6" board or glue them together first then dado them? Thanks for any feed back.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Sounds to me like you are asking about the locking rabbet/dado joint, the second picture. The first picture has box joints on the left edge and dovetails on the right. 
Personally, I prefer a router bit for dados but I have just got a cheap dado set. I also feel I can dial in an exact fit easier with the router. That's just me though, your mileage may vary. :smile:


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## Duncancruiser (Dec 6, 2011)

Its not those joints. I did find out that its called a half lap joint. Google is very helpful.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Duncancruiser said:


> Its not those joints. I did find out that its called a half lap joint. Google is very helpful.


 

Now I'm kinda confused. The pic on the left is what google came up with for a half lap joint. I've never seen or heard of something like that being attempted for joining box sides to fronts or backs.:blink:


Maybe what you are thinking is a rabbet joint?


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## Duncancruiser (Dec 6, 2011)

Its the rabbit joint. On the site I was looking at its called a half lap or rebate joint. http://www.the-warren.org/GCSERevision/resistantmaterials/woodjoints.htm


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Duncancruiser said:


> Its the rabbit joint. On the site I was looking at its called a half lap or rebate joint. http://www.the-warren.org/GCSERevision/resistantmaterials/woodjoints.htm


OK, we're on the same page finally:thumbsup:
So, back to the original question. The rabbet can be done with either the dado blade or a router bit. My personal preference would be a router bit on a router table. They can also be done hand held, preferably with a rabbeting bit but can also be using an edge guide. Depending on what equipment you have available there are many ways to create that joint.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Either/or....both will do the job, it's just a matter of preference. I prefer my dado stack on a TS for most...I find the saw is faster, more stable, and seems more powerful, but others prefer the router. Some cuts are just more condusive to the router though.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

I'm with Knotscott - the ts is my go too tool in the shop - but I do own a router table equipped with a lift, a plunge router and trim router. To do multiple lap joint cuts, I set the blade height and it stays put (no tilting etc.). I then set the depth of the cut by placing a strong magnet on the table way in advance of the blade (too close will risk a serious kick-back). I butt the board with the magnet and cut and repeat this as often as I need to with perfect replicas. 

In defense of the router (I know some folks prefer it), the 3/4 bit is exactly 3/4". And the router is preferred for curved channels like the ones in my roll tops. You will need to experiment and chose the method you are most comfortable with. Welcome to the world of woodworking and good luck with your project.


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## Duncancruiser (Dec 6, 2011)

Thanks for the replies. Would it be best to glue up the 4 1X6's together before cutting the groove or should I do each board seperatly?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*glue them together first*

To avoid slight mis-alignmnet issues....:furious:, make the groove in the panel after glue up. It may be difficult to align the groove while glueing, I know it would for me. I prefer making rabbets on the table saw with a dado blade and a sacrificial fence. The height and width of the rabbet can be adjusted precisely by making test pieces first. Then once you have the settings correct make your final cut in the real work piece. 
Always make test pieces! :yes:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Rabbets can be done on the table saw with just using a single blade. The step is done to just one side...two passes...one on edge, one flat.









 







.


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## BigBadBuford (Jan 13, 2012)

For me it depends on the size of the piece I'm working on. I have a small contractor saw so I don't feel as comfortable using the tablesaw on larger pieces. 

For rabbets I typically use a rabbiting bit with a guide bearing. Mine has a few bearings for different widths so you only need one bit for most sizes. 

Also if you are working with sheet goods you can get a plywood bit set that is slightly undersized to cut the correct width dadoes. I find using these are easier than trying to fine tune my stacked dado set.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

You need to check your thickness. Router bit may cut it too wide for the wood going in. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Duncancruiser (Dec 6, 2011)

Its all 1/2" 1X6 cedar that I put tongue and grove into. I'm putting 4 boards together. It'll be 48" long 18" deep and about 22" tall. And yes. I'm gonna use lots of test pieces. I used a ton when I was figuring out the tongue and groove. Thanks for all the feed back. I'll keep you posted on what method I use. Thanks again.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I never assume the router bit and the stock is going to match. I usually set up for an exact fit using the mating stock for a guage. :smile:


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## Duncancruiser (Dec 6, 2011)

Router bit is the answer. Much smoother finish than the dado blades. Thanks all for your input.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Duncancruiser said:


> Router bit is the answer. Much smoother finish than the dado blades. Thanks all for your input.


If that's the case you need a better dado set or they need sharpened. Unless you use a two pass cut with the router, your going to be frustrated with the fit.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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