# Smoothing out splinters...



## seeeker (Mar 3, 2011)

Hi,
I am not a wood worker, I know just about nothing.

A year ago I bought a very nice, rustic dining table made of reclaimed fence wood.

Whatever sanded-smooth or oiled quality it had has faded, and when you run you hands across the table you could easily get a splinter in your finger. It's getting pretty bad, and now I regularly get splinters. 

Is there something I can use to "fill in" these tiny imperfections that create sharp splintering? The table has no varnish or resin or poly, it is literally just sanded wood. I think it was well made but I don't know how they didn't anticipate this.

Maybe some kind of thin satin poly or something to cover the whole surface which would fill in the rough parts but not create a thick new layer. 

You can view pictures here:
http://www.sequentz.com/woodtable/IMG_3178.jpg
http://www.sequentz.com/woodtable/IMG_3179.jpg

You can really see it in the second picture.

Thank you.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I would first use a nail set and seat those nails a bit. Then I would sand the top (150x) so you don't have those irregularities. You could use just about any finish once sanded...any of the wiping oil mixes, wiping varnish, or straight oil (BLO or Tung). If you can spray...lacquer, conversion varnish, or waterbase polyurethane.











 







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## seeeker (Mar 3, 2011)

Thanks for your reply.


Would an oil or "just about any finish" fill in those little crack-like spots, where the splinters come from? I don't know much, but something tells me just applying another oil will create a nice look, but not actually create a long lasting protection that I'm looking for. 

And as for sanding, should I use an electric sander and go over the entire surface?


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

That top looks like its two thicknesses of used construction lumber nailed together. There isn't any finish that will stop you from getting splinters on that. You have flaking grain around that knot and you'll never, and don't want to try, sand deep enough to eliminate those areas. About the only thing that will cover over such issues is a pour on epoxy, thats after fixing and filling a lot of stuff, probably not what you want or want to get into. Another option is to cover with glass, after setting all the nails and making sure they don't stick out the bottom. No offense but that wouldn't be a suitable workbench, let alone a dining table, not without a cover.


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## seeeker (Mar 3, 2011)

Glass is a viable solution, it might even look good, though I hate glass top tables. I have used a table cloth sometimes, but then you don't get to see the table at all.

I'm a little pissed that this store, or more precisely the guy who made the table in the store (a local restored furniture place with a wood workshop) didn't see this coming. It's been one year.

Hmm... not sure. I definitely can't tackle this myself. I know someone who might be able to work on it, but it would cost a few hundred probably.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

You bought that table ? How much did you pay for it .


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## seeeker (Mar 3, 2011)

It's really not that bad...it's "rustic," and hand made. There were no splinter problems for quite a while. It's very smooth overall, just these little nagging spots where you get splinters here or there. The nails are really not the problem.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Splinters are bunches of loose (shattered) wood fibers . They cannot be smoothed down without first 'gluing' them down .
Try flooding the surface with a 50/50 mix of polyurethane and thinners , let it soak in and then flood it some more . Allow it to dry rock solid and then sand and fill and finish to your satisfaction .


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

seeeker said:


> Would an oil or "just about any finish" fill in those little crack-like spots, where the splinters come from? I don't know much, but something tells me just applying another oil will create a nice look, but not actually create a long lasting protection that I'm looking for.
> 
> And as for sanding, should I use an electric sander and go over the entire surface?


I suggested seating the nails with a nail set. In using a random orbit sander (ROS), sand the table down to eliminate the loose wood sections. You can't "glue" the loose pieces down with a thinned polyurethane, as that would preclude doing any staining once dry.

Once the table is "surfaced", stain with an oil base stain, and then you can use a wipe on oil base finish like Watco". Or use a Watco that has a color you like.












 









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## jaxonquad (Jan 26, 2011)

seeeker said:


> It's really not that bad...it's "rustic," and hand made. There were no splinter problems for quite a while. It's very smooth overall, just these little nagging spots where you get splinters here or there. The nails are really not the problem.



If you intend to sand the table, you will need to set the nails a little deeper (not remove). Because wood is softer than metal, as you sand the wood around the nail will be removed faster than the nail, causing 
1) the nail will become a high spot and cause the sander to "dig" as one side is raised as you pass over the nail. Ending in a lumpy surface. Or.....
2) the nail will rip your paper / sander to shreds as passes are
made.

Correct me if im wrong fellas.
If you DO sand you will loose some of the "rustic" look, so stain will help bring that back.

He's asking for assistance, not opinions on the table.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

seeeker said:


> Hi,
> I am not a wood worker, I know just about nothing.
> 
> A year ago I bought a very nice, rustic dining table made of reclaimed fence wood.
> ...


This just what you need. I have done this and it work's. It mite cost a little but you will not have any more splinters. It will make that table look nice and the shin will stay their. If you go this route use eye protection if this stuff get's splashed in the eye you will go blind in that eye nothing you can do about this. It isn't that hard to do. here is a link and i belive their is a video also if not do a google search for one. http://liquidglasscoating.com/?gclid=CPHhxMO046oCFYpR7AodEkiL-w


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> I suggested seating the nails with a nail set. In using a random orbit sander (ROS), sand the table down to eliminate the loose wood sections. You can't "glue" the loose pieces down with a thinned polyurethane, as that would preclude doing any staining once dry.
> 
> Once the table is "surfaced", stain with an oil base stain, and then you can use a wipe on oil base finish like Watco". Or use a Watco that has a color you like.


 He didn't mention wanting to stain the thing did he ? 

Laying on the thinned poly will achieve the desired result 



> Maybe some kind of thin satin poly or something to cover the whole surface which would fill in the rough parts but not create a thick new layer.


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