# Mini bar fridge stand



## gowings (Jun 17, 2013)

I got a little of a brain freeze on this project. I'm building a wooden box with a solid back with castors on the bottom for mobility to hold a over sized bar fridge(approx 100lbs. loaded) 18 wide, 20 deep, 14 high. It will have a door on it for the storage below. Here is my dilemma. I am using birch or maple veneer plywood, construction adhesive and brad nails. How do I finish the 5/8 edges, since I would like to keep the top and bottom with the raw face edges on top for strength and the weight. Since the edges top and bottom are flush, the tape/solid trim is outside the side walls. Any suggestions fire away. I'm leaning towards 1/4" solid trim. I'm not keen on bringing the top/bottom in to account for the trim since it's the weight I'm concerned about. I've done lots of white melamine and used iron on tape but I'd like a better look this time around. More furniture look
Thanks


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Titebond 3 glue would be better, IMO. What kind of tools do you have available. A thin 1/4 inch piece can be applied to cover plywood edges. If you can use screws to build the box, they would be stronger. The strip can be flush or proud, depending on the look you're going for.


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## gowings (Jun 17, 2013)

Question
If I use screws how would I hide them in the veneer plywood, Brad nail is easy to fill, also proud meaning on the outer edge faces. Correct.
Thanks for the advise:smile:


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

You can drill and countersink for plugs. Plug cutters can be found at the box stores or online. If you line up the grain the same as the board, it helps hide the plug.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I agree that TB III would be a good choice. You can get a finished look with a *rabbet technique* for veneer faced plywoods. The filed edge is only 1/16".



















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