# Mounting a floating mantel



## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

I have done a number of floating mantels using timbers and hand hewn beams. In the past I have used store purchased iron plates with numerous 1" dia. x 5" tubes mounted to the plate. They come out fine, but the boring in the back of the mantel has to be balls on perfect, and I have always morticed the 1/4" thick plate into the back of the mantel. I am doing one this time for my own home and here is what I was thinking. I have a 6" x 10" x 6' white cedar beam, so it is not too heavy. I was considering making up a piece of 8/4, cutting out the drywall to fit it directly to the studs to prevent sag. I plan to mortice out the back of the beam to fit over the 8/4 cleat. Should be about a 1-1/4 deep mortice when done. I am planning to simply fit the cleat into the mortice and screw and plug the beam from the top into the cleat. Anyone see a structural problem with this that I am missing?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you can take the rock or brick off the wall it's usually easier to put wood blocking or metal brackets on the studs and mortise the holes in the mantle wide enough you can easily slip the mantle over the blocking and slide it from left to right to get it positioned well.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I would use 1/2" rebar drilled into the studs at 2 or 3 places with matching holes into the back side of the beam.
Just use a 2 X 4 as the drill guide after locating the studs.
Mark your hole locations on the 2 X 4 then temporarily nail it or secure it to the wall at the height you need. 
Then drill your holes keeping them perpendicular to the face of the 2 X 4. 
Then remove the 2 X 4 and locate it on the back side of your mantle and drill those holes. No dead on precise measuring required!


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

B Coll said:


> I have done a number of floating mantels using timbers and hand hewn beams. In the past I have used store purchased iron plates with numerous 1" dia. x 5" tubes mounted to the plate. They come out fine, but the boring in the back of the mantel has to be balls on perfect, and I have always morticed the 1/4" thick plate into the back of the mantel. I am doing one this time for my own home and here is what I was thinking. I have a 6" x 10" x 6' white cedar beam, so it is not too heavy. I was considering making up a piece of 8/4, cutting out the drywall to fit it directly to the studs to prevent sag. I plan to mortice out the back of the beam to fit over the 8/4 cleat. Should be about a 1-1/4 deep mortice when done. I am planning to simply fit the cleat into the mortice and screw and plug the beam from the top into the cleat. Anyone see a structural problem with this that I am missing?


I mounted my mantle the same way, mine is not solid, just built up flat and molding, It's been there for almost 20 years now with no issues.

The only thing I would change is taking out the drywall, no need, just lag to the studs through the drywall, plus it gives you more bite into the cleat.


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