# rabbet



## galhug (Aug 27, 2009)

I am presently making some doors for my sons kitchen cabinets,
I am running the styles through my table saw for the rabbet (groove) to accept the plywood door panel and the door tenon joints,
the problem i am having is that the blade is cutting about 1/16" deeper on the out feed than that at the in feed. when i turn the style around to center the cut, the 2 cuts are not aligned.
Any suggestions on how to correct my problem?


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## bartosch (Aug 12, 2009)

*Rabbet*

Sounds like your cutting a channel or a groove to accept a plywood inset and a tenon and the tenon does not fill the entire space in the channel because of the 1/6" extra cut out on the end. I can't picture how this can happen on a table saw unless your lifting the wood from the blade prematurely at the outfeed end.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Let's start at the beginning with "terms"*



galhug said:


> I am presently making some doors for my sons kitchen cabinets,
> I am running the styles through my table saw for the* rabbet*
> 
> *(groove)* to accept the plywood door panel and the door tenon joints,the problem i am having is that the blade is cutting about 1/16" deeper on the out feed than that at the in feed. when i turn the style around to center the cut, *the 2 cuts are not aligned.*
> Any suggestions on how to correct my problem?


A *rabbet* is made by sawing a vertical and an intersecting horizontal to remove a square or rectangular section of wood, leaving a "L" shaped section along the length of the workpiece.

A *dado or groove* as you call it is made with either one or more passes over the blade at a constant height and offsetting the fence in small increments creating a trough in the workpiece at whatever width you make with multiple passes. 

Either of these operations can be made with a router or a dado head on the table saw.

The saw will not change it's height during the cut unless the blade lowers itself somehow.

The width of the cut will not change unless the fence is shifting somehow during the pass.

When you flip the work end for end and make another pass it will not take the same path unless it was centered from the git go. It will show an offset.

Your description is mixing the 2 concepts as I understand it. A properly set up saw will not create either situation, so I'm a little baffled as to what your describing. 
Rather than mess up your finished workpieces, make some trail cuts
in some scraps to verify which of the above is occurring if at all. That's my advice, for what it's worth. :thumbsup: bill


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## toolman Steve (Jun 11, 2009)

It sounds like the blade may not be 90deg.to the table, if it is off even a little your cut will not center .
If that is not the case make sure the door panel is not warped or twisted. There are things also but start with these.


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## galhug (Aug 27, 2009)

Thanks for the clarifications and tips.
I tried a number of trial cuts all resulting in the same issue.
What finally took care of the problem was to lift the trailing end as the wood entered the saw blade and the set the wood flat on the table for the remainder of the cut and the out feed. It seems that the wood is lifting on the infeed as soon as the wood started the cut.
I reset my table insert and it helped some.
I also checked my table for any warps, but it is flat.
Anyways, the project is done.
Thanks again


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*When the work "climbs" on feeding it's a sign of*

A blade that's not cutting efficiently. Either too many teeth,
like using a 80 tooth for cross cutting, rather than a 40 tooth for ripping or a dull blade or a blade that needs cleaning.
You say you've solved the problem and the project is complete, but you should really get to the bottom of this issue for future projects. Let us know what type of blade you are using after you've cleaned it. Simple Green, Easy off oven cleaner, Gum and Pitch remover all work, but everyone uses something different. :thumbsup: bill
Since you mentioned it, the infeed and outfeed supports must be in the same plane as the table saw surface or "level" with it. Set them up before hand with a long straight edge, a rip off a factory edge of plywood about 5" wide will work.


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

*First thing to check every time you approach*

your saw is the throat plate. Is it level with the table on both ends? I have taken to distorting the threads on the levelling set screws so that they do not self adjust during use.

Ed


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