# Fast Easy (And Cheap) Hinges



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

An often ignored hinge is a type of *pivot hinge*:
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They are an easy mount and are use for an inset application. There are less expensive versions that just have slotted holes for adjustment. No mortising. 

You can create a similar pivot method with common shop hardware. 
Here is a method of installing cabinet doors flush (inset) to the FF or leading cabinet edge (euro style), that swing about 125 degrees. The basic principle is to use a machine screw and a pop rivet each with a flat washer. 

A pop rivet (1/8" with at least a 1/2" end) is used at either the bottom or the top of the door. Drill a pilot hole in the door (smaller than the diameter of the nail) for the nail end to be inserted (cut off at about 3/4"), and insert into door.

At the other end of the door, drill a pilot hole for the sheet metal screw. 

For the cabinet, drill a through hole for the screw, and drill a hole for a snug but not tight fit for the pop rivet, and slightly deeper than the pop rivet, but don't go through the cabinet. These holes should be drilled straight (90 deg).

For upper cabinet doors use the pop rivet at the bottom as there won't be anything showing from the underside, and use the screw at the top. The reverse would be used for a base door as the screw wouldn't be visible, and is accessible.

For the screw end, a flat washer is used between the door and cabinet member. For the pop rivet end, a washer is used on the rivet between the door and the cabinet member. For a 3/4" door a flat washer 3/8" diameter or less can be used.

The holes for the door are approximately 3/8" to 7/16" OC from the edge, and centered on a 3/4" door. The distance from the cabinet end will vary depending on the gap desired. You can make a mock up for that determination.

To install a door, place the edge with the pop rivet and washer into the hole, align door and insert screw through (the top or bottom) and through the washer and into the pilot hole and tighten screw just enough. Screw should be long enough to penetrate the door about 3/4".

The downside to this procedure is that there is no adjustment, and you will need some sort of catch. The upside to this is that there are no hinges to buy, no mortising, and no visible hinge that shows.

This is a pivoting action from two points.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

In your experience, are these pretty durable? Looks like it could be used in some lid applications but I'm wondering if I would need to add additional support at the center if I plan to put stuff on top of the lid. Not a big fan of piano hinges so I've been trying to find the right style for a simple hinge.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

bofa said:


> In your experience, are these pretty durable? Looks like it could be used in some lid applications but I'm wondering if I would need to add additional support at the center if I plan to put stuff on top of the lid. Not a big fan of piano hinges so I've been trying to find the right style for a simple hinge.


I would think if they are installed correctly and the screw holes haven't been compromised they should work. Deflection in the door (lid) used that way might just rest with the door, not the hinge. Physically, being only at the edges does allow the length unattached in between to be greater than some other types.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*C-man*

Borrowing your idea of the pop rivets, which come in many sizes and lengths, can you think of a way to "simply" drill the door for 2 pop rivets on either ends as pins then, insert the door (somehow) into holes to accept the pins? All types I have seen use a spring loaded pin and when pushed in will allow the door to be inserted. The problem as I see it would be removing the door from the blind holes, not being able to push the plunger back down once it gets inserted. It's in like Flynn and stay there!
No way to remove it. Any thoughts...I know you're just a "simple" guy, so this ought to be simple for you.....:laughing: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Borrowing your idea of the pop rivets, which come in many sizes and lengths, can you think of a way to "simply" drill the door for 2 pop rivets on either ends as pins then, insert the door (somehow) into holes to accept the pins? All types I have seen use a spring loaded pin and when pushed in will allow the door to be inserted. The problem as I see it would be removing the door from the blind holes, not being able to push the plunger back down once it gets inserted. It's in like Flynn and stay there!
> No way to remove it. Any thoughts...I know you're just a "simple" guy, so this ought to be simple for you.....:laughing: bill


At the time there wasn't a simple answer. Pop rivets were all "fixed". I didn't do much research for a similar piece of hardware with a spring loaded pin. 

The beauty of the pop rivet system is that you can remove the door easily. Of course inset doors are required, but they will open over 100 degrees. I think in a case similar to Bret's cabinet, if he could get to the framing at the top (over the doors), he might have been able to use a screw, and at the bottom a pop rivet.












 









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