# Can't Seem to Type #8 Bailey



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I have looked and can't seem to nail down the type of #8C Bailey I have. The logo Bailey is in the front of the knob and Made In USA behind the knob, the number 8 behind the tote, no dates or other markings. 

I also got a Bailey #3C carcass with frog, I believe it is a type 9. No adjusting screw for the frog, "NO" on one side of knob and the number 3 on the other side in front of the knob. There are two dates behind the frog.

I would like to restore both of these planes but the #3C needs... well everything except the foot and frog, it has a front knob but it is wired together so it needs replaced. Anyone here sell replacement parts? I do have all the screws.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

take a look at my site and see if it helps.
made in usa didn't appear until type 14. We'd need some further info for a determination.

i'd agree the #3 is a type 9.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Nice site Don,

jiju1943,
Another site might also help is,
http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm
Also bear in mind, Stanley did use up parts from there inventory on a new run of planes, which can affect a type study.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

A pic is worth a thousand words....


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Thanks Don and Acowboy, with the links you have posted I think I have them typed now, I am sure the #3C is a type 9 and the best I can narrow it down, the #8C is a type 18. One thing is throwing me is the tote is Rosewood and I still haven't checked the knob to see. 

Brass adjusting nuts have diagonal knurling on them.
and everything is exactly as a type 18 has except for the tote and knob. Here are some pictures of the plane before I clean and tune it. I want this for a user not a collector.

The cap does have orange paint behind the Stanley logo.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

and more pictures.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

The last 3 pictures are the #3C.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

To me they look pretty good.
Just got finished with a #8 restore
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/new-life-stanley-8-a-61380/

Your #3 looks like your correct with a type 9, lever cap was replaced by either a type 13-15.

Stanley did paint there handles on the type 18, why would they paint Rosewood is beyond me, but this is not the first I have seen.

Have also a thread about rust removing..several others have contributed to the the thread;
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/rust-removing-60142/

Will be nice to watch your progress on the planes..:thumbsup:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Thanks Acowboy, your thread was really interesting and very informative, I appreciate the links. I haven't researched the best and most effective way to remove the rust yet. I have an Ohio Tool #8 that I restored a while back and it turned out pretty good. Have you tried the the Evapo Rust. I would like to compare it to the way you did your #8. The #8 Ohio Tool wasn't in real bad shape so basically I refinished it by hand.

You #8 turned out beautiful, I just hope mine turns out half as nice. Now to do some more reading the links you posted. Thanks again.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

here is some restoration help, http://www.timetestedtools.com/how-to---bench-plane-restoration.html

evapo rust works very well. Its easy And safe. I use citric acid a lot as well.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

timetestedtools said:


> here is some restoration help, http://www.timetestedtools.com/how-to---bench-plane-restoration.html
> 
> evapo rust works very well. Its easy And safe. I use citric acid a lot as well.


Thanks Don, I really appreciate you going to the trouble to post that to help me and others out. There is a lot of good information there. I read where the citric acid would turn the metal blackish, will that polish out OK?


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

jiju1943 said:


> Thanks Don, I really appreciate you going to the trouble to post that to help me and others out. There is a lot of good information there. I read where the citric acid would turn the metal blackish, will that polish out OK?


Yes, it comes of easily. I use a wire wheel. If your only worried about 1 or 2 planes, a wheel in a drill works fine. Even the scotchbrite pads will take it off.

Evapo-rust leaves the same residue, although it seems to be a little darker with citric acid.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

timetestedtools said:


> Yes, it comes of easily. I use a wire wheel. If your only worried about 1 or 2 planes, a wheel in a drill works fine. Even the scotchbrite pads will take it off.
> 
> Evapo-rust leaves the same residue, although it seems to be a little darker with citric acid.


Thanks again Don, I appreciate that.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I tried the Evaporust and like it . I just set the parts in over night and have gotten good results. I use an old antifreeze jug cut in half and soak blades and cap irons. I also have a blast cabinet with 80 grit glass beads, it also does a good job.

After I finish with the rust removal I use some scotch bright type balls I got at HF. The balls are about 4-inch in diameter and I use the drill press to do the work. One is 180 grit the other is 400 grit. 

The talk about typing of the plane is interesting. I have a number of they but have yet to do any typing. Maybe it is time. 

Paul


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

Fastback said:


> The talk about typing of the plane is interesting. I have a number of they but have yet to do any typing. Maybe it is time.
> 
> Paul


Check out my site and let me know if you need any help.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Fastback said:


> I tried the Evaporust and like it . I just set the parts in over night and have gotten good results. I use an old antifreeze jug cut in half and soak blades and cap irons. I also have a blast cabinet with 80 grit glass beads, it also does a good job.
> 
> After I finish with the rust removal I use some scotch bright type balls I got at HF. The balls are about 4-inch in diameter and I use the drill press to do the work. One is 180 grit the other is 400 grit.
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul, I appreciate it, HF has the Evapo Rust so looks like I will be making a trip soon.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Have not tried Evapo-Rust, runs about 28 dollars for a gallon.
Do know that people have said can be reused.

Lemon juice, (non-concentrated kind), which I have had excellent results, runs about 4 dollars.
I must add that I have re-used it for at least 5 hand plane parts and other items.
Clean up was done with either hot water and soap, or brake cleaner if I want to repaint.
Fine wire wheel or fine emery cloth aids in the clean up.

Soaking was just done overnight, what Evapo-rust or lemon juice does,
turns red rust (FeO3) into black rust (FeO4), which is more soluble and a easier form of rust to remove from the base metal iron.

Edit:
If you are planning to re-paint, to remove the japanning, I use "Citristrip" the aerosol kind with about a 4 hour application time,
rinse off with a garden hose and then brake cleaner.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

acowboy said:


> Have not tried Evapo-Rust, runs about 28 dollars for a gallon.
> Do know that people have said can be reused.
> 
> Lemon juice, (non-concentrated kind), which I have had excellent results, runs about 4 dollars.
> ...


That is a lot of difference, is that just plain lemon juice?


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Yes, kind you buy at the grocery store, did edit my previous post,
with added info...


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

acowboy said:


> Yes, kind you buy at the grocery store, did edit my previous post,
> with added info...


you can also buy citric acid (basically the same thing) in powdered form. I have a link to it at amazon through my restoration blog.

The nice thing about the powdered form, 1 pound will do a boat load of planes (about$10) and if you have something bigger, just add some more powder.


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