# Introduction and Rough Built-in Bookcase Plan



## jlewallen (Mar 27, 2013)

Hey everyone... I'm brand new to this forum and to building things with wood and so this is both a mild introduction and a request for some feedback...

I've had the itch to get my hands dirty in woodworking as a hobby for a while... I recently purchased a home and now that I've got a garage and projects piling up my excuses have turned into reasons.

My first project is a built-in book case... here's a picture and a diagram I've sketched up:









I'd like the shelving to be flush with the shorter wall on the right of the photo. You can see at the bottom there's a sofa nearby and the more the shelves stick out the narrower the walkway becomes. This is also why I've got no back to the shelves so that they are as close to standard bookshelf depth as possible. Checking with sagulator confirmed my instincts that I'd have to do this in two 32.5" spans. Also, I'm planning on using metal shelving standards set into grooves (the dotted lines) in the sides so that we have lots of flexibility in shelf positioning. We've got some other shelves in the area with a similar construction so it's a little more cohesive this way too.

The top of the shelving and the bottom shelf would be fixed to keep things square (bottom gap would be covered by extending the baseboards along the bottom) Not sure the best way to join things though. I was leaning towards a dado on the bottom... most of the joints would be concealed with trim.

For material I was going to use poplar boards (¾"x12"x8') and the prefinished shelving that you just cut to width.

My tentative plan of attack is:


Cut sides and top/bottom boards to length using circular saw.
Use dado (or router?) to make grooves for standards and bottom fixed shelf. I think table saw is probably better for this...
This space is crooked... the depth changes as you move vertically. My plan here was to measure the depth at the top/bottom, draw a line and then use a jigsaw to taper them to the back wall. I know I could build a jig to do this on the table saw, though it doesn't seem necessary? My dad said he'd do the cut jig-less on the table saw w/o the fence... which I respectfully declined to try.

I'm leaning towards doing this as two separate pieces and securing them together once they're in place... join them on the top somehow and via bolts through the center legs behind the baseboard. As far as securing them in place... I was going to secure to the walls on the side via screws (through spacers to make up any awkward gaps) Then I was going to place trim around the edges... 

If you were wondering why the baseboards look the way they do, there was a built-in desk here before.

What do you all think? Am I at least on the right track?

jacob


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I would arrange the overall width to accommodate the shelving to come from 8' stock. IOW, each bank of shelves would be from cutting 3 per length of board. 

I would make two standing units, and since the sides don't show, the horizontal pieces for the tops and bottoms would be mechanically fastened into rabbets with glue into the sides. I would make a single loose toe kick to set the two units on.

I wouldn't taper the shelving to fit the wall. If it were my project I would install a back in each cabinet let into a rabbet. Set the assembled units on the toe kick, level, and fasten together and to the walls. Make a trim frame to cover the edges against the wall, and the top and bottom. You could make a single trim for the middle.













 







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## jlewallen (Mar 27, 2013)

Thanks cabinetman!

Good call on making more efficient use of the stock... I'll have to read up more on incorporating a toe kick. I think I can picture what you mean though, thanks for the heads up.

I was trying to avoid the backing because I didn't want to sacrifice that depth... I suppose if I can swing a 1/4" backing that may be a good trade in the end... I'll just do that.

Thanks again!

jacob


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jlewallen said:


> Thanks cabinetman!
> 
> Good call on making more efficient use of the stock... I'll have to read up more on incorporating a toe kick. I think I can picture what you mean though, thanks for the heads up.
> 
> ...


This might make it easier for you. If these cabinets are going to stay, i.e., not to be moved at a later date and needing finished ends, your assembly can be different. 

Before you cross cut any stock, make sure of its raw length. If you want 3 pieces from a 96" piece, they will have to be 31 7/8", or less, (given a saw kerf of 1/8"). 

If you want to use the full length shelf adjustment profile that fits in a dado, that's up to you. Before assembly run the dadoes in the verticals. Personally, I feel its a bit commercial looking. I would rather just use shelf clip holes one centered on the expected position, and two up, and two down all 1" apart. You can use pegboard as a template. 

You can install the ends in between the bottoms and tops (butt joined). Just use glue and screw the parts together. At that point, the two cabinets can be set on top of a loose toe kick. Being loose, you can level it first, and then just place the cabinets on it.









 







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## jlewallen (Mar 27, 2013)

I had just run across another set of plans that used a short spans of 3-5 holes... I like that idea... it seems more forgiving and would look better. It's definitely going to stay where I'm building it and primarily hold books and so that means it's less likely the shelves will need to change height more than a few holes up or down... 

As for cutting rabbets into the sides for the top/bottom... what's the rule of thumb for determining an appropriate depth for those?

For the toe kick would you recommend just 2x4's? I may need to put some plywood on top to get the height I need as my baseboards are 5" high...

Thanks so much,

jacob


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jlewallen said:


> I had just run across another set of plans that used a short spans of 3-5 holes... I like that idea... it seems more forgiving and would look better. It's definitely going to stay where I'm building it and primarily hold books and so that means it's less likely the shelves will need to change height more than a few holes up or down...
> 
> As for cutting rabbets into the sides for the top/bottom... what's the rule of thumb for determining an appropriate depth for those?
> 
> ...


Since the sides don't show and never will, I suggested just assembling the ends between the top and bottom...butt joints...no rabbets. I use 3/4" plywood for toe kicks...not 2x4's. Just make the height you need. Make it one piece.









 







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## jlewallen (Mar 27, 2013)

Thanks cabinetman... 

I appreciate the direction... It'll be a few weeks before I can start and then I'll be back with my progress


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## daveinjersey (Feb 27, 2013)

In case it's not clear, I think the plan is to cut the dadoes _before_ ripping the sides - so they're all the same height. Would be best if all could come from one sheet, but if they're too wide and you had to buy two full sheets anyway, you might get one pair with perfectly matching dadoes from each.

Also, I'd recommend 



. You don't want that thing - full of books - coming down on you.


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## jlewallen (Mar 27, 2013)

Hey dave,

Yeah, that makes sense... I hadn't planned on using plywood for the sides... if I do I can definitely take advantage of that and make those cuts before to ensure they're identical. Thanks on the heads up for the cleat, I hadn't started looking for ways to secure it yet and that looks like a great way.

Thanks!

jacob


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## jlewallen (Mar 27, 2013)

Just wanted to follow up and say thanks... I did finish this project several weeks ago and everything went great... my family was a little too surprised by how well it turned out. Some things that came up along the way:

I had my dad help me rip the boards. I ended up with 4 12ft 10" or wider boards from a local lumber yard and it was my first time ripping something that size. I had some left over that I've been using on other things.

I had to improvise a different way to secure them in place because at the top of the cases I didn't have enough room behind them for the french cleat and just used an earthquake strap.

I went with the kreg shelf pin jig and was very happy with the results. I was stressed about painting after drilling or vice versa but it turned out ok (just took a 1/4" bit to clean them out by hand) Next time now that I have the experience I think I'd be comfortable drilling the shelf pin holes after the case is installed for a cleaner look.

Squaring them was a lesson in patience... I bought some HF pipe clamps and two 10ft steel bars. I had the longer lengths capped by the tops and bottoms and I'd probably do it the other way next time, if that makes sense. I measured the diagonals and got it very close to square. Because I made two of them I could see my technique improving... so... yeah I have a favorite side of the book cases, heh.

I am going to need to return to the shelves themselves at a later date. I took a shortcut and bought some cheap shelves and they just won't work long term. I'm seeing some bowing already. I'm glad to because they were a compromise (practically over time/money) and now I can justify doing it right and getting the look I wanted from the beginning. The book case itself is painted and I was hoping to end up with just stained wood shelves, which I can do now.

Anyway, thanks again!

jacob


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