# Finish for cedar dining table



## bahuffma (Jan 21, 2013)

Hey all..I am new to this forum and to woodworking in general. I have searched high and low and have had a hard time finding the answer to what I’m looking for. I am building an indoor dining table that is aromatic cedar boards (in center) with cheap Lowes 2x6 (pine?) on the borders. I am having a hard time figuring out how to go about finishing. I would really like a natural finish, but also would like the protection since it will be a dining table.
Some of the ideas I had were:
-many coats of tung oil finish (not pure), then a wipe on poly
Or
-shellac, then WB poly

What would y’all suggest for something like this? I realize that cedar is soft and am okay with dents, etc. This will be a very rustic looking table as the base is made out of re-used pallet supports. I’ll try posting a picture later.
Thanks in advance!


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## bahuffma (Jan 21, 2013)

See picture. I do have test pieces that I am going to play with..just looking for some suggestions.
Thanks


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Can you apply a spray finish?

If your going for a natural rustic look, I would distress the wood to your liking and apply a precat lacquer in a 5 sheen.


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## bahuffma (Jan 21, 2013)

I've never done a spray finish. Is it difficult? Does it require a sprayer or does the lacquer come in spray cans?

Thanks


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

In that case, i suggest a satin wipe on poly.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The tung oil would be a good finish however might be a bit yellow for cedar. If you use it I would use the tung oil only and not put polyurethane over the top. 

If you go the route of shellac and then water based polyurethane be sure to use a de-waxed shellac such as zinsser sealcoat. The poly won't adhere very well to standard shellac because of the natural wax content.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

If i wanted it rustic, i probably would not put more than 2 coats of poly on it anyway to keep the finish close to tge wood. Thats not enough build to really worry about a color change that much. Actually, a little yellowish tint would look pretty good on the top.


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## bahuffma (Jan 21, 2013)

RandyReed said:


> If i wanted it rustic, i probably would not put more than 2 coats of poly on it anyway to keep the finish close to tge wood. Thats not enough build to really worry about a color change that much. Actually, a little yellowish tint would look pretty good on the top.


If I go this route, would I need to use the de-waxed shellac first? 

Thanks so much for the replies!


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## bahuffma (Jan 21, 2013)

Oh, and another question. I do have some gaps between the boards that I can see be traps for crumbs, etc. Is there a way to fill these and still make it look "seamless" (or just not too different colorwise)? I do have a bunch of cedar shavings as well as sawdust that I could use.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

How are those two cross-grain end pieces attached? I can't tell from the pictures if they are designed to allow expansion and contraction of the center pieces.

As to a finish: with a soft and easily dented wood like cedar, you want to use a flexible finish. You could use an oil/varnish mixture applying 4-5 coats or, better yet, use a flexible finish like a true marine spar varnish. Go to a marine supply store--avoid the so-called "spar varnishes" in the big box stores. True marine finishes are formulated to be flexible so they stand up to rapid wood movement caused by frequent changes in moisture. This characteristic will allow dents without them causing the finish to crack and fail.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

bahuffma said:


> If I go this route, would I need to use the de-waxed shellac first?
> 
> Thanks so much for the replies!


No, you can apply poly straight to the wood. If its rustic, you do not need to apply many coats. Just apply a coat, sand with 320, then apply another coat and see how you like it. If its not quit enough build to your liking, sand again with 320 and apply another coat. Keep doing this until you get the look you want. 

A rustic look is a finish close to the wood.


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## bahuffma (Jan 21, 2013)

HowardAcheson said:


> How are those two cross-grain end pieces attached? I can't tell from the pictures if they are designed to allow expansion and contraction of the center pieces.


Are your referring to where the cedar meets the pine? 

Because the cedar boards are only 1" thick, what I did was use a 0.5" piece of plywood as a backer (on bottom), and routed the 2x4 & 2x6 pine boards along the edge (for overlap). So all the boards are screwed into the plywood from underneath. I did use pocket holes to attach the 2x4's to the 2x6.


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