# squeeze out on glue up



## Woodford (Feb 24, 2012)

I'm soon to begin my table top glue up and had a few concerns. Table top is of cypress and approx 8' wide x 44" deep x 1" thick. 

How many clamps and what type to use? I have 4 pipe clamps currently (48").

Also, to ensure boards remain flat to each other, I thought about using c-clamps with a small flat pieces of scrap boards. Any better ideas on keeping boards flat to one another?

Also, I was worried that if glue squeezed out of joint and I had scrap boards sandwiched around with c-clamps - would I not glue up the scraps to the table top?


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## rayc (Jan 29, 2012)

put wax paper between top and the scraps, it will not stick together.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Woodford said:


> I'm soon to begin my table top glue up and had a few concerns. Table top is of cypress and approx 8' wide x 44" deep x 1" thick.
> 
> How many clamps and what type to use? I have 4 pipe clamps currently (48").


I allow a clamp about every 8"-12". I alternate the clamps from top to bottom.



Woodford said:


> Also, to ensure boards remain flat to each other, I thought about using c-clamps with a small flat pieces of scrap boards. Any better ideas on keeping boards flat to one another?


I use cauls, which can be any straightedge, wood or metal, that lays across the boards, which when clamped down maintains alignment. To get good 90 degree fitting between boards, it's best to joint those edges first.



Woodford said:


> Also, I was worried that if glue squeezed out of joint and I had scrap boards sandwiched around with c-clamps - would I not glue up the scraps to the table top?


If you lay waxed paper as a barrier, whatever squeezes out will remain. I wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag as soon as possible. 










 







.


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## Woodford (Feb 24, 2012)

Wax paper it is then. That thought had crossed my mind but I never see it done.

Yes, I Have a 6" joiner that I will clean up joint edges with prior to glue up.

Is one clamp every foot a general rule of thumb, what's the norm for everyone in here?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Four clamps is a little shy for an 8' table. I'd want more if it were me.


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## nblasa (Nov 29, 2011)

These guys are right on about the clamps. As for your question about squeeze out, I've been having good luck with waiting about 15 minutes for the squeezed out glue to become somewhat hardened and then scraping it off. Much easier than trying to scrape or sand off dried glue and won't smear like fresh glue. There will still be some clean-up afterward, but significantly less.


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## Woodford (Feb 24, 2012)

nblasa said:


> These guys are right on about the clamps. As for your question about squeeze out, I've been having good luck with waiting about 15 minutes for the squeezed out glue to become somewhat hardened and then scraping it off. Much easier than trying to scrape or sand off dried glue and won't smear like fresh glue. There will still be some clean-up afterward, but significantly less.


That's a good tip! I had heard that before about waiting until it gets a little gummy then pulling it off. I was intending on trying that method but was worried about what would be coming out under clamps.


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## Jdub2083 (Feb 18, 2012)

ACP said:


> Four clamps is a little shy for an 8' table. I'd want more if it were me.


+1. The more clamps on it the better.


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## ccrow (Jan 14, 2010)

You can never have two many clamps.

What C-man said, about alternating clamps every 8"-12" or so I believe to be pretty much the norm.

Don't worry about the squeeze out under the clamps, it should be minimal if you've already cleaned everything else up. Like others, I've had the best luck scrapping off the squeeze out after about 15-30 min.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

For 8' you probably want cauls on each end and the middle. Wrap them with clear packing tape to keep the glue off. You can even make them from 2x4s if properly jointed. Here is a tutorial (not mine):
http://www.mikes-woodwork.com/Cauls.htm


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

i'd prolly go with 9 clamps. as for not getting glue on your c-clamp set-up try this ...........

take 2 pieces of 2" x 4" 4 ft long and flatten the edge on your jointer. run it over your table saw with the blade up about 1/2 inch and make notches in the 2x4 to correspond where the joints of the top will be. ( i usually make my notches 1/2 inch or wider - so make 4 or 5 passes ) then sandwich one on the top and one on the underside and clamp them so it holds your top flat. do this at each end

hope i explained it well


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## Woodford (Feb 24, 2012)

bob sacamano said:


> i'd prolly go with 9 clamps. as for not getting glue on your c-clamp set-up try this ...........
> 
> take 2 pieces of 2" x 4" 4 ft long and flatten the edge on your jointer. run it over your table saw with the blade up about 1/2 inch and make notches in the 2x4 to correspond where the joints of the top will be. ( i usually make my notches 1/2 inch or wider - so make 4 or 5 passes ) then sandwich one on the top and one on the underside and clamp them so it holds your top flat. do this at each end
> 
> hope i explained it well


Yeah I think I got it, you are just bridging over the glue joint. Nice.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

Woodford said:


> Is one clamp every foot a general rule of thumb, what's the norm for everyone in here?


There can be no "rule of thumb." The boards one is gluing up will have different properties, different widths, and thicknesses.


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## SeanStuart (Nov 27, 2011)

Cliff said:


> There can be no "rule of thumb." The boards one is gluing up will have different properties, different widths, and thicknesses.


 :thumbsup: I usually like more than one per foot. I like it tight!


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## EWerner (Oct 14, 2010)

Borrow more clamps from a neighbor, friend or relative. Look for consitant squeeze out along the entire length of the glue up to have an idea that you are applying fairly equal pressure from all of the clamps.

Your glue up sounds substantial so take you time and be 'loaded for bear' before you begin.


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

Woodford said:


> Yeah I think I got it, you are just bridging over the glue joint. Nice.


exactly - just bridging over the glue joint. i usually go with a clamp every 9 inches or so . what IS important is glue coverage on BOTH sides of the joint. how much glue ?? not to the point of it dripping but not so thin that you see wood when you spread it . each piece being glued should be covered with glue. not alot should squeeze out on clamping. and dont over-tighten the clamps . that just weakens the joint by oozing out all the glue.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I have a very different take on glue. First off use the right glue for the right job. More these days is not better, it's waste. Second glues are much better now and require lesser amounts. In many places it's too strong. If its so strong it rips the wood off one side of the joint it's strong enough. Best glue ups start with perfect preparation of the two surfaces being joined. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I only clamp where it's needed. If it all goes together well, I use less clamps. If it clamps up flush and flat, I just clamp it tight enough to put a little pressure. Again glue and clamps isn't the only important factors. Prep and joint is.

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Shop Dad said:


> For 8' you probably want cauls on each end and the middle. Wrap them with clear packing tape to keep the glue off. You can even make them from 2x4s if properly jointed. Here is a tutorial (not mine):
> http://www.mikes-woodwork.com/Cauls.htm


Excellent tutorial on cauls......bookmarked


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

@ al - we said it differently but we prolly use the same amount of glue. 

ps - not only dont i let my friends use craftsman but i wont let them use ryobi skil black and decker etc lol


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## byrd (Nov 17, 2010)

I may have missed it but how many boards are you using? If you are using four boards, you could glue up two halfs and then glue the two halfs together the next day after the first two halfs have cured.
It would be more managable trying to clean the joint up on the halfs then the whole top at one time. I use the cauls just like it is explained in the tutuorial, I use parrafin wax on the bottom of the cauls since I hand plane or scrape my tops I am not worried about the parrafin.

Usually 1' spacing works for me on the clamps and I learned that gluing up two boards instead of four, you can get a pretty consistent joint without cauls.

+1 one on cleaning up the glue after the glues dries a little bit, but I usually wait about 30-40 minutes and scrape it off with a paint scraper. The scraper can scratct the wood, but planing takes care of that. Dont wait to long or the glue will take the wood surface up with it if it has time to dry.


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## MNsawyergp (Jan 31, 2012)

A few more pointers...Do a dry fit first. Use a strip of hardwood along each edge for your clamps to crush so you don't damage the edge of your table. Where your clamps touch the glue and the wood, you may get black stains in the wood, which may or may not get planed out...to avoid, lay a strip of plastic under the clamp. A strip of plastic works for keeping the cauls from sticking, also. I use a paint roller to spread the glue evenly and quickly. An even layer of glue, no dry spots, is the key. Get the pieces together before the glue dries out...that's why you do a dry run, so you aren't running around like a mad man to find something you forgot while the glue is drying in the open. Start clamping from one end and have somebody raise and lower boards to get them level as you tighten the clamps (this works instead of or along with the cauls). 10" apart is good, not much more. In 44" a pipe clamp will start to bow quite a bit. I use Jorgenson I beam bar clamps...they stay straight a lot better...just watch the amount of pressure top vs. bottom...even with cauls, if you apply way to much pressure to one side, you create a warped top. You should be able to remove the cauls once the clamps are tight...that's when you check the flatness of the top...adjust the clamp pressure so the top is flat...use a straight edge laid across the top as a guide. Another hint. If you get a stubborn board that won't line up, try putting a shim under the caul and forcing it into line...time is against you, though. If you have a friend, have them there to help. It sucks to need help when nobody is around. There is probably more, but these will help. That dry run will teach you a lot.


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## Woodford (Feb 24, 2012)

Thanks for the pointers guys. I did do the dry run got everything ready and started the glue up. I was a mad man running around gluing all joints and panicked and had to drag my fiance out to help with the glueing - I had no idea how long I had until the joints had to be mated (clamped) after placing glue on the them... It all ended up turning out good though. I did learn a lesson though. I used cauls to help ensure they were all flush but my boards were not all planed to the exact thickness. I had my 2 parallel bar clamps on the bottom (of panel and actual bottom of table) along with my 4 other bar clamps alternated along panel. What happened was the boards all lined up flush on bottom and the thickness difference of boards was noticeable on what was to be my table top. I hand planed and sanded everything down to a nice finish. But with what I have to work with, I will from now on place the boards top down on my set up and it should all be good.

As for an update, I have the top finished down to 150 finish and table flipped over attaching apron currently. I have chosen a dark walnut stain and stained bottom prior to attaching apron. Finish looks great - cant wait to see the finished product! I've attached a few pics of the glue up, cleaned up panel and a sample of the stain showing the character of the cypress boards I'm working with. Sorry for the poor quality - iphone pics...


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looking good! First glue-ups are an educational experience DAMHIK! :smile:

Before you stain the top check this out:


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## Woodford (Feb 24, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> Looking good! First glue-ups are an educational experience DAMHIK! :smile:
> 
> Before you stain the top check this out:
> 
> Blotch Control: CN's Pre-Color Conditioner - YouTube




Now, will his pre-color conditioner just prevent blotching and leave the same differences (some dark and some light) in the pieces or will it create the appearance that all pieces are the same color/tint? I really like the difference in the boards color and would like to keep it, but after seeing this video I clearly see the blotching. Forgive me if that is a stupid question, but the coat of stain you see on the bottom of table in pictures was the first stain I have ever wiped on/applied...


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Test on some scrap first. It should be ok and smooth out the blotches but not change the character. Light reflects differently by the grain direction and that shouldn't change but always test.


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