# Stuff I've learned about maintaining my DVR XP



## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

I thought I'd share a few things I've learned about maintaining my DVR XP.

The first is that I was noticing that it was hard to turn the tailstock. At first all I noticed was that the keeper plate was worn and seemed to be catching on the hand crank notch. Then later I realized that the notch on the handwheel had in fact been worn to a ramp shape by the keeper plate (see photo). I ended up getting a replacement hand crank and keeper plate and now the crank is MUCH nicer to use.

The second problem I encountered was that the tailstock was getting stuck when trying to slide it on the lathe bed. This was driving me nuts and at first I assumed that some rust I couldn't see was raising the surface on the inward edge of the bed was squeezing the runners on the tailstock so I sanded the bed a little. That didn't work and I got frustrated. Finally I realized that the two blocks on the bottom of the tailstock had gone out of alignment and the angles were causing the tightness, but the trick was how to adjust them back. I had built the lathe stand outlined in the DVR XP manual and it was obvious the only way to make this adjustment required tightening those screws from below the bed while the tailstock was lined up to the headstock with a double ended morse taper, but this was impossible with the lathe stand as is.

So I make a modification to the stand. I traced the melamine top with the inside of the bed (leaving some extra around the mounting holes), then took the lathe off the stand and cut out the middle. I also put a piece of melamine over the sand bags in the base now that shavings would be able to fall through the bed. So then I remounted the lathe on the stand, moved the tailstock to the head end of the bed and aligned it with the double ended taper, then reached from below, twisted the tailstock runner plates for the right snugness, and tightened their screws from below.

I've always liked my DVR, but now it's REALLY tuned. There is no side to side play in the tailstock, it slides smoothly the length of the bed, and turning the crank is nice and smooth.

Thought I'd share these hard won lessons with other DVR owners.


----------



## bond3737 (Nov 13, 2009)

I hope Im reading your post correctly but you cut out the middle so you can get access to the bottom plates and make your adjustments? If thats what you are talking about I have had the same problem with those plates on the bottom.... lost two of the screws that hold the plates in place. What you did makes sense. you could have taken the lathe off and adjusted it off the stand but then if it ever happened again you would have to do the same thing- too much hassle.... The only thing I might have done differently is instead of removing the entire middle- with a little room around the bolts. You might have simply moved the tailstock up into position, stuck down into the lathe bed and made a line on either side of the tailstock down onto the wood and then made a trace along the edge of the inside of the lathe bed. This would give you a hole large enough to get a hand into without removing the entire trace of the inside. anyway, not trying to dog your method or anything, glad it worked!!! happy turnin,
bond


----------



## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

I had been thinking about cutting out the middle of the top anyway so that shavings would fall through and be easier to just vacuum off the bottom, so the need to do this to adjust the plates pushed me to finally do it.


----------



## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

I should also mention that I left a rib in place in the middle of the top so I'd keep some strength across the width.


----------



## Nate Bos (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks a LOT for this info. I have seriously been considering this lathe for a while. Would you suggest it. Does it have the power for large platters and bowls? THanks!
Nate


----------



## sprior (Aug 31, 2008)

I'm happy with it. The biggest bowl I've tried is about 12" across. It supports 110V or 220V and I've got it running on 110V. When I first got it I would often have it shut down claiming "Low Voltage" when I was taking some rough cuts and called support. They suggested running it at 220V which I don't feel like setting up and it annoyed me that while they claim to support 110V just fine they really seem to prefer 220V. Now it just seems like that error doesn't happen as often, don't know if it's just me getting better technique.


----------



## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

For those with the 1624’s also (like me) the keeper plate is suppose to receive a drop or two of oil every month or so (down through the opening). This is especially important if you do a lot of drilling as the quill has to be a little loose. Running any lathe and not tightening the quill lock can cause lots of problems with erratic wear in the tailstock. 
I placed a strip of duct tape over the opening to keep dust out.
Nate, it should turn most things you want to try. Here is a guy turning a little vase using the DVR. ( I don’t suggest the chainsaw approach)




 
It is my understanding that you can set the amount of resistance (catch) need for the safety stop to take effect. You do get an extra 1/4hp going to 220 but I am not sure that is very important.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

sprior said:


> I'm happy with it. The biggest bowl I've tried is about 12" across. It supports 110V or 220V and I've got it running on 110V. When I first got it I would often have it shut down claiming "Low Voltage" when I was taking some rough cuts and called support. They suggested running it at 220V which I don't feel like setting up and it annoyed me that while they claim to support 110V just fine they really seem to prefer 220V. Now it just seems like that error doesn't happen as often, don't know if it's just me getting better technique.


This interests me. I am happy to convert mine to 220V. I looked at the manual and it did not mention the motor being dual voltage. When you talked to Teknatool did they mention anything specific to switch over to 220 beyond changing the plug?


----------



## Nate Bos (Jan 11, 2012)

It looks like it works for the small stuff but I want to turn big stuff, Ha ha ha. That is a lot of power and a fancy set up he has there. Thanks NC


----------



## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

Dave Paine said:


> This interests me. I am happy to convert mine to 220V. I looked at the manual and it did not mention the motor being dual voltage. When you talked to Teknatool did they mention anything specific to switch over to 220 beyond changing the plug?


This is the manual I pulled up on line.
If if does not go to it directly, go to page 36.
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Lathes/DVR%20XP/downloads/Nova%20DVR%20XP%20manual_Feb%202012.pdf
This still has the old contact (Tim Geist) instead fo the new service center. I would contact the new center to verify any questions.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

NCPaladin said:


> This is the manual I pulled up on line.
> If if does not go to it directly, go to page 36.
> http://www.teknatool.com/products/Lathes/DVR%20XP/downloads/Nova%20DVR%20XP%20manual_Feb%202012.pdf
> This still has the old contact (Tim Geist) instead fo the new service center. I would contact the new center to verify any questions.


Thanks, this manual does not match my manual. My page 36 is the start of troubleshooting.

I decided to pull the back plate off to see what my controller board looks like, and it is completely different.

My lathe was purchased in Dec 2010. So either Teknatool have changed the design to be dual voltage, or my lathe would need a different tweak.

Thanks for posting, I will not be plugging my lathe into 220V just yet.

Drat, I would like the extra power for bowl coring.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Since I was disappointed that I may not be able to convert my lathe to 220V, I did some searching.

It seems the jumper removal may have been for older lathes.

Teknatool has this FAQ.
http://www.teknatool.com/products/L...- Adding 220V Switch to DVR XP in the USA.pdf

This is the opening remark.

Question: How do I change my switch to a 220V in the USA market ?
Please read FAQ- Changing input voltage from 115V to 220V. If the Jumper as identified in STEP 4 is
NOT present, then your DVR is ALREADY 220V ready and only the toggle switch needs replacing.
The switch replacement kit will be available at our service centre or on line. Please call 727 954 3433
to arrange purchase.

So now to look for a DPDT switch. The present switch is single pole, so only switching the one black hot wire.

If I convert I need to switch both black and white hot wires.


----------



## Carlryan (Nov 13, 2012)

hi
I am having a lot of problems with my DVR XP. I have replaced two
circuit boards, and now there is a problem with the heat sensor 
on the heat sink. The folks at Teknatool don't seem to have any info that the will part with. I am looking for a copy of the USERS Manual
Not the Instruction manual.

Thanking you in advance
Carl Ryan


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Carlryan said:


> hi
> I am looking for a copy of the USERS Manual
> Not the Instruction manual.
> 
> ...


I feel your frustration. I only got the Instruction manual with the lathe. What does the Users manual look like?


----------



## Carlryan (Nov 13, 2012)

Hi again
Re DVD XP users manual. The users manual covers more of the
settings, how to set other features by using a pass code that
is kept away from us, also just try to get a circuit diagram
hope some one is more lucky than I am. The boards are made in Russia (you will find it stamped on to the board) In all my years 
this is the first time that I have been refused a circuit diagrma 
for a domestic piece of electronic equipment.
I still like the lathe as it works well, too bad getting service for it is
less than poor.
Carl ryan


----------



## Carlryan (Nov 13, 2012)

Hi
Does any one have the password required to change hidden settings, for the DVR XP.

Carlryan


----------

