# Noobie needs help with black stain for maple.



## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

Hi all,
First I want to say I'm a complete novice when it comes to woodworking and finishing wood.

I've just ordered a pair of 1 1/2" thick 24" x 96" maple work surfaces for a home speaker project.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-8'-butcher-block-work-surface/p-00914965000P

What I'm going for is a medium to dark gray color with no hint of any brown remaining. After that, I plan to spray clear, high gloss polyurethane. I'm pretty sure I already bought the wrong products to use.

I bough Minwax Poly shades (black) with the silver can thinking I would use a rag to apply just the right amount to get the gray I want. Once I got home I realized I should have got a straight stain if I want to use a rag.

I also got a can of Minwax white pickling stain to experiment with thinking it would remove all the traces of brown while leaving the clear definition between layers of Maple.

I'm guessing I missed the mark on all counts and what I bought will not result in the silvery gray I'm looking for. So as you can see, I really need some help.

Thanks,
Rob


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

For what you are doing I think you would be better off by taking a can of black enamel paint and mix white into it until you get the gray you want. You could thin it a little and brush or wipe it on and wipe off the excess with a rag. Test the finish on the underside of the counter until you get the desired color. Once you get the color you want let the enamel thoroughly dry and then topcoat it with a water based polyurethane. Any oil based finish will tend to give it a yellow tint to the finish where a water based finish will be clear and remain clear.


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

Thanks for the info Steve. I think I got the wrong kind of polyurethane too. I'll make sure I use water based.

What about the acrylic makes it suitable for this?


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Check out minwax water base wood stain and you will find a *pearl grey* or *slate*. I think thats what you will need to get the look you want. Here are the directions just so you know what to get:

Stir the stain thoroughly before and occasionally during use. Do not apply when temperature is below 55°F. Do not thin. Always test stain on a scrap piece or hidden area of wood to verify desired color. When working with more than one can of the same color, mix the contents of the cans together to ensure color consistency.

Apply stain with a synthetic bristle brush, foam brush, staining pad or rag. Allow stain to penetrate no longer than 3 minutes. Remove stain that has not penetrated the wood with a clean cloth. Wiping in the direction of the grain using light to medium pressure to achieve even stain color. Note: For best results, do not allow cloth to become saturated with stain. Replace with clean cloth as necessary. DO NOT ALLOW STAIN THAT HAS NOT PENETRATED THE WOOD TO DRY ON THE WOOD SURFACE. Note: Any uneven color penetration can be blended. Rewet the surface with more stain and lightly rub the stain into the surface, blending light and dark areas.

To darken color, apply a second coat after 2 hours repeating directions for application of first coat. Do not sand between coats.

After a minimum of 3 hours (dry time may be extended due to heavy application, low temperatures or high humidity), complete your project by applying a clear protective finish such as Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish or Minwax Water Based Oil-Modified Polyurethane. Note: Minwax Water Based Oil-Modified Polyurethane will amber slightly and may change the final look of the stain. Spot test on an inconspicuous area to ensure satisfactory results.

I suggest minwax polycrylic and since its maple, I would also apply the Minwax Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner before applying the pearl grey or slate.


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

Thanks for the detailed information Randy!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Rob41 said:


> Thanks for the info Steve. I think I got the wrong kind of polyurethane too. I'll make sure I use water based.
> 
> What about the acrylic makes it suitable for this?


If you mean acrylic paint to use for the stain instead of oil based, the acrylic dries so fast you would end up getting it blotchy. The oil based will work and function like stain.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

For what it's worth, that wood doesn't look like maple to me. In reading the description, it says it's butcher block, but it doesn't say it's maple. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I think it will take stain differently that the hard maple normally associated with butcher block.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Quickstep said:


> For what it's worth, that wood doesn't look like maple to me. In reading the description, it says it's butcher block, but it doesn't say it's maple. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I think it will take stain differently that the hard maple normally associated with butcher block.


I think you are right about it being different wood. The picture isn't very good but looks like either sycamore or osage orange. It should stain better than maple.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Dang, I didnt look at the picture, but it will still stain grey. :smile:

Might not need the wood conditioner though.


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

That's okay. I returned all the wrong stuff I had bought and got the slate gray and black Minwax stain only. I also got the conditioner and the polycrylic.

I think I'll experiment a bit on the scrap pieces because I want the grain to show through. I may end up thinning the stains a bit. I suppose I can experiment with and without the conditioner as well.

Now I'm mostly hoping that the maple surface doesn't have any kind of finish already applied. The website doesn't say anything about a finish.

I appreciate the help and I'll post some pics of my first real finishing job.....as basic as it may be.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rob41 said:


> Now I'm mostly hoping that the maple surface doesn't have any kind of finish already applied. The website doesn't say anything about a finish.


It will probably have a finish on it. Can you spray?


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

I don't have the equipment to spray. If it does have a clear finish I see a lot of sanding in my near future.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you don't have the means of spraying you could use a wipe on polyurethane. The stuff is thin and takes about 6 coats but is easy to apply.


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

Thanks Steve. I already made another trip out of town to get to a home depot where I got slate gray and black stain. I also got some wood conditioner and polycrylic.

So I'll do the best to come up with the finish I'm looking for and with a high gloss. Here is a picture of the basic color I'm going for even though the wood is a bit different. I've also got a 3/4" round over bit to use on the edges.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I believe you will have to do that color in two steps. I would do a dark gray almost black and wipe it off and let it dry. Then go over it with a light dove gray and wipe off the excess. The white should stick in the grain. You might have to come back immediately with a rag damp with mineral spirits and get the excess white off. Then after it is dry go over it with an gloss acrylic clear coat. An oil based clear coat will yellow on you.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

If that wood is stripped to bare wood and sanded with 180 grit, applying that slate will be close to that. May need to add some of the black to the slate, it just depends on how dark you want it. I would try different spots with different mixtures on the *bottom* of the top to test different looks and use the mixture you like best on the top. 

You could even put the slate down first, apply a washcoat, scuff sand with 320, and apply the black over the slate. Use black (1 part) to mineral spirits (3 parts) so it leaves black in the deep grain but it doesnt over power the slate color too much.


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

Thanks for the advice. I will try the different methods you suggest on an unseen part to see what works best.

Thanks again,
Rob


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## CharlesNeil (Jun 26, 2007)

to get that slate grey , check W D Lockwoods "Reactive Gray" or CW Pearl Gray mix either 1 oz of dye to 1 pint of water . Quick and easy , works quite well.


www.wdlockwood.com


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

CharlesNeil said:


> to get that slate grey , check W D Lockwoods "Reactive Gray" or CW Pearl Gray mix either 1 oz of dye to 1 pint of water . Quick and easy , works quite well.
> 
> 
> www.wdlockwood.com


I think the 2 minwax materials (Pearl Grey and Slate) I suggested to him will be a close match to what you suggested. 

Great to see you on here Charles.


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

Just dropped off the 2' x 8' x 1 1/2" thick maple to the cabinet shop to have them ripped to 20" and take 6" off the top. If it does come with a finish already, he'll try using his industrial sander if it doesn't gum up the belt.

I told him I'd be routing 66 holes and flush mounting the 66 speaker drivers to which he said, "My cnc would make quick work of that but it isn't working right now." That's fine by be since I already got a Bosch 1617 router, router guide, circle jig and router bits.


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

I just wanted to thank you guys for the help. They turned out a bit darker than I had originally planned but not quite as dark as they appear in the pictures. The flare on the speaker is sunlight from the sliding door.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rob41 said:


> I just wanted to thank you guys for the help. They turned out a bit darker than I had originally planned but not quite as dark as they appear in the pictures. The flare on the speaker is sunlight from the sliding door.


What did you end up doing? Your pictures arent showing up for me.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Ahh. Ok. Pics showed up. 
What finishing schedule did you do?


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## Rob41 (Feb 11, 2015)

Being the newbie at this that I am, I ended up going the simplest route. I used all Minwax water based products. Slate gray mainly, followed by a very light application of black and finally a few coats of Polycrylic.

I think in the future I'd go with a dye followed by a lacquer. The Polycrylic has little depth and has only so much shine. I think it would be fine where a satin finish is wanted but not so much for a high gloss.

This was my first speaker build and my first finishing project. If I were to grade my own results I think the capabilities of the speakers overall would be an A, quality of woodwork a B+ quality of the staining a C and quality of topcoat a C. I'm still happy overall with the project but I think I should have used a stain followed by maybe a good tung oil.


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