# Uneven drywall at door frame



## tmccartney (Aug 11, 2012)

We recently took out some old plywood paneling and put up drywall in our den. Around most of the doors and windows, the drywall is now about 1/4" proud (is that the word?) of the door jambs, so we're using screen bead as furring to fill that space so that we can get the casing to sit flat.

But we have one door where the drywall is 1/4" proud at the top and bottom of the door jamb but tapers down to exactly flush in the middle. I'm not sure what happened except that the studs may not have been flush or something when the drywall was installed.

I can't post a link yet, but if you go to i dot imgur dot com forward slash UYcux dot jpg, you can see a pic showing the top of the door down to the middle.

What's the best strategy for dealing with something like this? Shaving the drywall at the top and bottom?

Thanks!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It would depend on just how close this door is to the rest you have been furring out. If it is not too close I would mark a line where the back side of the casing would install and use a chisel and taper to rock to the jamb. Nobody is going to see a 1/4".


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## tmccartney (Aug 11, 2012)

Thanks, Steve. I laid in the furring last night (without nailing it) and laid the casing on top, and it appears the casing will be flexible enough to lie flat against the drywall without us having to chip any of it away. Probably should have tried that before hitting the panic button and posting here.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

tmccartney said:


> Thanks, Steve. I laid in the furring last night (without nailing it) and laid the casing on top, and it appears the casing will be flexible enough to lie flat against the drywall without us having to chip any of it away. Probably should have tried that before hitting the panic button and posting here.


Hi Tim - sounds like you are OK. I just had a similar issue last week in a rental. Door frame had been installed crooked... well not sure if it was the door frame or the wall but I wasn't fixing either so didn't look to closely. The difference between the door frame and the drywall was 1/4" at the floor to flush 5' up, I used a tapering jig on the table saw to cut tapered shims. It was like that across the top of the door also.


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## tmccartney (Aug 11, 2012)

We considered tapered shims, but the edges of the strips will be visible inside the doorway, so the straight furring strips look better (to us). Probably no one would notice, actually.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

tmccartney said:


> We considered tapered shims, but the edges of the strips will be visible inside the doorway, so the straight furring strips look better (to us). Probably no one would notice, actually.


My job was being painted... easy peazy:smile:


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