# What do you guys think of this jack plane?



## judgment (May 22, 2014)

Should I buy it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-No-...d=100010&prg=9834&rk=4&rkt=24&sd=331214865050


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I'd skip it. Seems kind of high priced to me for what it is. Not really a bad plane, just high priced (I haven't followed ebay prices for a while, but wouldn't pay that for a run of the mill, common #5). 

Got any flea markets, tool swaps or similar in your area? It's always nice to be able to inspect in person before buying.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

It looks nice and is a good vintage, but is a little expensive for a repainted plane with a handle repair that you're buying unseen. It could go even higher too.

This Bailey Sweetheart is mis-listed as a #4C....it's a #5C, and looks like a better buy to me than the refurbed one.

This one is worth watching too.

Here's a nice Millers Falls #14 that could be a good buy depending on how high it goes.

For that price, I'd be inclined to contact some of the guys that buy and resell them on woodworking forums. You buy from a trusted source and get the benefit of their knowledge, not to mention they usually sharpen and set them up. Not sure if there are of any of those guys here, but there are at Lumberjocks and Woodnet.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

knotscott said:


> For that price, I'd be inclined to contact some of the guys that buy and resell them on woodworking forums. You buy from a trusted source and get the benefit of their knowledge, not to mention they usually sharpen and set them up. Not sure if there are of any of those guys here, but there are at Lumberjocks and Woodnet.


 
https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/tools-for-sale-2/


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

+1 on skipping this plane. The seller is asking too much, perhaps partly due to the EBay/PayPal fees.

If Timetestedtools has what you are looking for, get one from him.

The seller is not a hand plane person based on this comment in the description

"*All the screws work, except for the one that holds the U shaped tab for the frog adjuster, and were oiled.*"

I think this means the screw for the "Y" adjustment lever was not removed from the plane. I certainly hope the "Y" adjustment lever wheel works.

The seller did the minimum work to improve appearance. He stated repainting, but not clear how much effort he put into removing the old paint and cleaning the casting prior to spraying on some new paint. I personally would prefer to have the original condition and painted myself so I know it was done correctly.

There is still work to be done to make this a user. The seller mentions sharpening the blade. Also need to flatten the front edge of the cap iron and lap the sole.

Not clear if the repair on the base of tote would hold up over time.


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## Brian Wilson (Jan 19, 2014)

I have to agree with everyone else.
if you put the footwork in and exercise some patience, it is very possible to find these types for under 20 bucks.

if your needing a user, and just can't hold off, my personal favorite is my war era no.5. these can be had for 10 bucks and lower.


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## judgment (May 22, 2014)

Thanks guys. I been reading "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" and I'm chomping at the bit to start getting some "vintage" user tools. According to what I've read the Stanley #5 seems like a good starting point. But I don't want to be an idiot about it if I can avoid it. 

Brian, when you say "war era" to which war are you referring? I ask because it seems natural to assume WW2, but so far all the planes I've been looking at are WW1 era or older. Also, I enjoy your work with the beach boys.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

My favorite would be the WW1 era, that's a type 11

Some like the type 12 better because of the high knob and the larger adjustment nut. Anything up to type 19 is ok, although after type 16 it "may" take a little more tuning. They can all be fine users.

I personally think your first plane (after a good block plane) should be a #4. Very few people start off using a jack, but want to smooth, and although a #5 is capable of smoothing, a real smoother is best. Find a decent #3 (if you have smaller hands) or a #4 size. It doesn't necessarily need to be a Stanley either.


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## judgment (May 22, 2014)

Mr T3,

I have read that it is more difficult to get a good vintage smoothing plane because the nature of the tool makes it inherently fussier and therefore the plane itself has to be higher quality. In other words, a decent jack plane is good enough, but a smoothing plane has to be pretty dang awesome. I was considering making a smoothing plane one of the tools I buy new based on this reasoning. What do you think?

Also, I realize the average person probably won't need to do a lot of rough work to start, but I have this crazy idea that it would like to start as close to the "beginning" as possible. I would get my own tree if it were practical.  However, I am still very early in the process of learning what all is involved in doing this, so I don't know for sure what is really doable at this point. 

There are a plenty of nice lumber places reasonably close to me and I have been daydreaming about going to get my very own flitch. That is, once I know what to do with it.


Okay, so how impossible/ridiculous does that sound? I have to admit, I do tend to get into projects over my head and then worry about how I'm gonna tread water after the fact...


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

judgment said:


> Mr T3,
> 
> I have read that it is more difficult to get a good vintage smoothing plane because the nature of the tool makes it inherently fussier and therefore the plane itself has to be higher quality. In other words, a decent jack plane is good enough, but a smoothing plane has to be pretty dang awesome. I was considering making a smoothing plane one of the tools I buy new based on this reasoning. What do you think?


That philosophy is mostly beyond my knowledge bucket, but I do think a jack plane and a block plane are a great starting point. You can get into more specialized sizes as needed/desired later. I've got a bunch, and usually end up grabbing whatever's sharpest! :laughing: :yes:


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## judgment (May 22, 2014)

knotscott said:


> That philosophy is mostly beyond my knowledge bucket, but I do think a jack plane and a block plane are a great starting point. You can get into more specialized sizes as needed/desired later. I've got a bunch, and usually end up grabbing whatever's sharpest! :laughing: :yes:



Everything is over my head; I'm quoting a book! Lol! Whatever's sharpest sounds good to me!


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

we all have different theories and this could get into a "which came first, the chicken or the egg" discussion. 

My thought is this. Most beginning hand tools users are already using prep'ed wood, but it always needs to be smoothed. A jack is easier to get going you're absolutely right. But what will you do with a piece of wood that's been rough sized with a jack?

You'll set it aside until you get a smoother. 

Buy what you find at a great price, but I'd still suggest a smoother all other things being equal. That's just my opinion, and I'll be glad to help you get what ever you buy up and running.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

I am agreeing with all,

Myself, I would not overlook one that may need a little work either.
There is no better way to learn about your plane, when you fix it up to become a great user.

Teaches you how to fine tune and sharpen, there is a lot to be learned there. But then "watch out".
No matter what plane you acquire you will sooner or later have to sharpen the iron, almost always...right away 

The one's I like the most do not have the frog adjustment screw, once I set the frog rarely is there need to adjust it anymore, unless it is a smoother. Pre WW1

And what I meant by "Watch Out"...the hand plane seems to reproduce themselves in different forms....


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

judgment said:


> I have read that it is more difficult to get a good vintage smoothing plane because the nature of the tool makes it inherently fussier and therefore the plane itself has to be higher quality. In other words, a decent jack plane is good enough, but a smoothing plane has to be pretty dang awesome.


If this was in a book you read, it makes me happy I do not have that book nor read it.

I have a number of Stanley vintage bench planes, 3, 4, [email protected], 6, 7 and a No. 8 waiting for restoration.

My No. 4 is not as old as some of the others. It has an original Stanley blade, which is kept sharp and a Veritas cap iron. I tend to pick up this plane more than my No. 5's.

The design of the No. 4 is no different than the other Stanley - Bailey bench planes.

The No. 4 uses the same blade width as the No. 5, 2in but is shorter than the No. 5. I do not experience any extra fussing with the No. 4 than any of my other vintage bench planes.

It stays in tune as well as any of other planes.


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## Brian Wilson (Jan 19, 2014)

judgment said:


> Thanks guys. I been reading "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" and I'm chomping at the bit to start getting some "vintage" user tools. According to what I've read the Stanley #5 seems like a good starting point. But I don't want to be an idiot about it if I can avoid it.
> 
> Brian, when you say "war era" to which war are you referring? I ask because it seems natural to assume WW2, but so far all the planes I've been looking at are WW1 era or older. Also, I enjoy your work with the beach boys.


I'm of the same mind as cowboy.
my no.5 user is a type 17, no frog adjustment, beech handle work of art.( in my opinion)

I have a type 14 5c jack plane also. the handle has a better feel than my 17, but that's about all it has over it. both are good users.

both cost less than 15.00 and took a lot of elbow grease and love to get where they are now. it was worth all the work just to learn plane set up. ya gotta know your tool!:yes:

my no. 4 is a type 16 and does its job. i'm looking for a few more to restore and compare. paid 5 bucks for this one and just ordered a new knob( mine was chipped at the bottom) for 12 bucks on ebay. so i'm 17 bucks into it. dangerously close to my 20 dollar cut off point.

there are a really weird group of people out there that pay crazy money for anything with a heart logo on it, call it an antique and place it on a shelf. they drive up prices and could not tell you the difference between flat and quarter saw lumber. I am afraid of these people.

lastly, THE BEACH BOYS HAD A GUY NAMED BRIAN WILSON?!!


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## judgment (May 22, 2014)

Dave,

Thanks. The book is "The Anarchist's Toolchest" by Christopher Shwarz and it is entirely possible that I am misrepresenting or misunderstanding what is meant by the text.

I have been avoiding thinking about restoring tools beyond simple maintenance. There is so much to learn that I have set that aside for the time being. When I buy vintage tools it will probably from someone like Mr. TTT from this thread who can get me started off right. Apparently I will have to learn some minor metalworking skills at some point, but I wanna wait until I feel I at least have a general grasp of woodworking principles and ideas.


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## judgment (May 22, 2014)

Brian Wilson said:


> there are a really weird group of people out there that pay crazy money for anything with a heart logo on it, call it an antique and place it on a shelf. they drive up prices and could not tell you the difference between flat and quarter saw lumber. I am afraid of these people.
> 
> 
> 
> lastly, THE BEACH BOYS HAD A GUY NAMED BRIAN WILSON?!!



So am I.  and lol


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

> I have been avoiding thinking about restoring tools beyond simple maintenance. There is so much to learn that I have set that aside for the time being. When I buy vintage tools it will probably from someone like Mr. TTT from this thread who can get me started off right. Apparently I will have to learn some minor metalworking skills at some point, but I wanna wait until I feel I at least have a general grasp of woodworking principles and ideas. _________________


Probably the best way to go if you want one to use right away.
If you do not have these yet, might consider these;

1) A bench to plane on.
2)Means to sharpen the blade...they do dull
3)Enthusiasm...you already have that...

Keep us posted....:thumbsup:


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## judgment (May 22, 2014)

acowboy said:


> Probably the best way to go if you want one to use right away.
> If you do not have these yet, might consider these;
> 
> 1) A bench to plane on.
> ...



Thank you sir. Plans for a work bench are currently in development.  I must admit I haven't even looked into sharpening blades yet.....


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## john sayles (May 27, 2013)

Dave Paine said:


> The seller is not a hand plane person based on this comment in the description
> 
> "*All the screws work, except for the one that holds the U shaped tab for the frog adjuster, and were oiled.*"
> 
> I think this means the screw for the "Y" adjustment lever was not removed from the plane. I certainly hope the "Y" adjustment lever wheel works.


It seems clear to me that the seller is talking about the "U"-shaped tab which is screwed to the bottom back face of the frog and engages the slot in the frog adjusting screw.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

john sayles said:


> It seems clear to me that the seller is talking about the "U"-shaped tab which is screwed to the bottom back face of the frog and engages the slot in the frog adjusting screw.


Commonly called adjusting screw clip or tab...


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## john sayles (May 27, 2013)

acowboy said:


> Commonly called adjusting screw clip or tab...


It seems you missed the point of my post


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