# Anybody use OB's Shine Juice?



## Maylar

Cap'n Eddie has a formula for wood turners polish that's shellac, BLO and DNA - one part each. I tried it on a turned box and it didn't really build much or come up to a super shine. Is there a knack for using this stuff? Any tips?

And I noticed that it separates rather quickly, I had to keep shaking my bottle... I assume that's normal?

Thanx


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## knika

I do, but I cut the BLO ratio WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY down. I found that three equal parts left the oil on top. While it is a wet look and a good shine, too much oil for me.

Make sure that you use a sanding sealer first.

Jack


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## Bill Boehme

It's not anything new. Some members of my club were using it over ten years ago. I didn't think much about the way that it looked, but it is quick and easy. I agree with the previous post about cutting the linseed oil way back if you decide to use it. In my opinion, the oil should be applied by itself and allowed to properly cure for a couple weeks before applying the shellac. Actually, I would choose between shellac or oil, but not both.


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## NCPaladin

I haven't mixed my own but a lot of products are similar (Mylands). A key is to make sure you use BLO (Boiled) and not plain linseed oil. About like the difference in tung oil and polymerized tung oil.

It does take a lot of coats since the amount of shellac is cut way down and each coat is very thin.

I think I would do like Kinka and it cut back on the oil percentage.


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## Maylar

OK, thanks. I think I'll take my current bottle of it and add more shellac and alcohol, to dilute the oil.

Sanding sealer just being shellac and DNA, why would you need that first?


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## Bill Boehme

NCPaladin said:


> I haven't mixed my own but a lot of products are similar (Mylands). A key is to make sure you use BLO (Boiled) and not plain linseed oil....


Back when professional painters mixed their own paint using resin, oil, and pigment it was common to find both raw and boiled linseed oil in hardware stores. Our next door neighbor in the 1950's was one of those painters who knew all about the chemistry of paint back then. Raw linseed oil was used in hot weather when you would not want to accelerate the curing time of paint while boiled linseed oil (meaning oil that had metallic salt catalysts) was used to accelerate curing. That practice sort of faded out by about the 1960's and it's been a few decades since I have used raw linseed oil. It is harder to find these days, but I did see it at Rockler's so I know it hasn't gone away yet.


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## Bill Boehme

Maylar said:


> .... Sanding sealer just being shellac and DNA, why would you need that first?


First before what? I rarely use sanding sealer on woodturnings, but there are all sorts of sanding sealers besides shellac. If you want a sanding sealer make sure it is compatible with the topcoat. Don't use a shellac sanding sealer under lacquer. Also a polyurethane sanding sealer would be better under a polyurethane top coat. If you are thinking about using an oil to add depth, then do not use a sanding sealer or else the oil will not penetrate enough to give the desired effect.


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## Bill White 2

I have used it on flat work as well as on turnings.
Works well on lathe tool handles when applied without a sealer. That way it doesn't get too glossy.
Bill


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## knika

I use a clear lacquer and lacquer thinner of 1 to 1 as a sanding sealer. Two to five coats depending on the wood. Then sand lightly with 400 and then 600. Now it only takes two thin coast of shine juice to get a beautiful finish. I am sure that other people use their preferred method and solutions that work for them just as well.

Jack


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## NCPaladin

I thin the shellac with 1-2 parts DNA to use as a sealer. It is not really necessary but I think it speeds things up with a friction polish.

I coat well and when good and tacky burnish with 4-0 steel wool with the wood dipped in DNA. Smooths out any drips/runs/lap marks and ready to apply the friction polish in minutes.

Most of my larger turnings are just shellac burnished with 0000 and maybe shavings. Sealer first then regular strength until all pores are filled, burnishing between each coat.


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