# How would you build this?



## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

I need to build pretty much an exact duplicate of this storage bin, minus the fancy laminate and colors.










I'm planning on:

1. Building the outer box first, and dadoing slots for the shelves into the two sides.
2. Dadoing slots for the upright dividers into the shelves and top/bottom.

Is that the best way to do this? Getting everything lined up properly will be a PITA but I'm not sure how else to proceed. BTW, the cubbies will be 12" deep and construction will be of 3/4" ply, if that matters.

Possibly, an easier build that would require more "Prework" is: I'm also considering building a TS sled for a 3/4" dado blade. That would allow me to make very deep through dadoes (rabbet?) half way through both the shelves and the divder pieces and use the "interlocking x method." Like this:










That would avoid me having to make and line up 30 separate dados for 15 dividers. Thanks for the advice. I need to get it done this weekend.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Yep.. This will be a PITA! 

The cross-lap method would be strongest, but tolerances will have to be fairly tight to get everything to align. :smile:


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

*sigh* Where's a CNC machine when you need one? So, the dado-with-TS-sled method, right?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

mikeintexas said:


> *sigh* Where's a CNC machine when you need one? So, the dado-with-TS-sled method, right?



Your cross-laps will need to be 6" deep.
There will be some clean up work involved. :smile:


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## SevenPin (Dec 15, 2009)

Mike,

I can see two ways to do this. You could cut out the shelves to be horizontal and set up the dado to make your slots for the vertical dividers. It looks like it is symmetrical and one setup would make the dados on each end (or the first vertical divider in from each side) and re-adjust the fence to make the two inner dados. The other option would be to make the same type of dados but use the vertical dividers as your long pieces.

The problem I see with making the criss-cross dividers would be (based on the picture) you need to make it one more column wide. Then you would have three groups of interlocked pieces. You would still need to make dados in the vertical or horizontal pieces to hold the dividers. Since you would have to set up for the dados anyway, what's a few more .

Good luck.

SevenPin


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

What will it be used for?

Can you dado your shelves in and just use butt jointed dividers?

That would be easiest. :smile:


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Thanks guys! It's going to be a shoe rack. The boxes will be bigger than the picture above, but same general idea. I like the idea of butt jointed dividers (a lot less work!) but how do I secure them? Toenailed brads from a nail gun? I don't want the dividers to be all crooked as in something that looks like this, crooked dividers are real obvious.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> Your cross-laps will need to be 6" deep.
> There will be some clean up work involved. :smile:


CROSS LAPS! I knew there was a proper name for the joint. Not "through dado" like I called it. :huh:


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

For the top and bottom, start with sheets are 2x the depth and height) of the cubby AND A LITTLE LONGER /HIGHER THAN THE CUBBY. (You get to calculate how much longer)

Also make your horizontal sheet wide enough to account for all of your horizontal shelves.

My reason for taking this approach is to make it easier to set up the dado spacing and allow the top/bottom and the horizontal members to all be cut with the same set up. The first set up needs to take into account that the top/bottom will be trimmed ON EACH END to the correct length and ditto with the horizontal member. It sounds harder, but it works better, too.

Cut the dados in the top/bottom sheet and in the horizontal sheet. Then cut the top /bottom piece to the right length, then rip them to the right width to create a top and a bottom. This should assure correct line up. 

Now cut the dados in the side/side piece. Cut that piece to the correct length, then rip it to the correct width to creat a left and a right side. This should assure correct line up.

Assemble the top, bottom and sides. Now measure to verify length of the horizontal members then trim to length (REMEMBER ALIGNMENT) and then rip that sheet into the correct widths.

Now go cut the verticals.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Thanks very much, Roger. That sure does sound like a more sure-fire way of insuring the dados line up. And for a relative noob like me, that's a very good thing. About the verticles; if I make them butt joints, how do I secure them in place? Toenails from a brad gun?


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

I'm recommending the horizontals have dados and the verticals be cut to fit, not egg crate style, so, yes, brads would work, but I'd glue for sure since I don't know if your cubbies have enough space to use a brad nailer. If the nailer won't fit, the glue would keep then in place.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Thanks again, Roger. It'll be interesting to see how much firewood I wind up with before this thing is built! But it will be a great learning experience for me since this is pretty much the most complicated thing I've ever built from scratch. Like I said, I'm a noob.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Just wanted to say that I'll be going with Roger's suggested course of action from post #9. Cutting the dados for opposing sides (top/bottom, left/right, shelves) at the same time will go a long way towards getting everything to line up properly. Measurements will be the key here. :yes: Buying the ply tonight; having Lowes rip it down so it'll fit in the car. Will wind up wasting more wood that way, but it is what it is.

For the dividers, I'm planning on just gluing them in since my brad nailer probably wont' be able to get in there. Assuming I'm accurate with my measurements and if anything, cut the dividers a hair too tall, I can sand to fit and the glue will be enough to hold each divider in it's respective dado. This is a shoe rack, not a stand for a piece of machinery.

I will post a build thread in the Projects Showcase. Hopefully I don't embarass myself too badly. Thanks again for all the advice.


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## cowtown_eric (Feb 16, 2013)

'm thinking svensborgitation, ( Ithinks it's called IKea)



make the outside, draw yer centres , and then use a marples 148 diowelling jig for precise dowel location. If you dont have one of those, google it and scope out the principles. Shouldn't be too much of a problem if you are only doing a one-off. I sometimes use brass plumbing fittings threaded into baltic birch, and rebored with dowel size just to get the veticality and consistency for multiple joints.

Eric

Just cut down and reworked an IkW ahwlf unir to fit into an architects office. Javelacrit! but a fella has to do what is requested. 

Remember precision in layout in centers and dowel boring!!! It can turn to a nightmare if you dont.

Eric in Calgary


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Just wanted to update this thread. It's built an it turned out really well. Not really a build thread, per se...would've been really boring to see "Here's a piece of wood. Now here's the same piece of wood with dadoes in it." *chuckle* Here's how it turned out: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/basic-shoe-rack-48559/


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## jsei555 (Jun 17, 2013)

Wow that's nice build up with the great effort i really impressed with your work this pic tell us that you are really hard working man..I salute on your work..


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

looks to me like lots of dados would do it.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

something along these lines ...


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