# Trouble finding stock fence for Craftsman 113.226880 table saw



## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Hey guys, I recently picked up a Craftsman 113.226880 table saw that I intend to use as a dedicated dado saw. The only problem is that the previous owner could not locate the fence, and I am having a heck of a time trying to find the part number on it so that I can search for a replacement on sites like eBay. Does anyone know of the original fence part number for the 113.226880 Craftsman table saw? I could just use a piece of wood clamped down to the table, but, getting that wood parallel to the blade on the front and back after every adjustment just sounds like a pain in the butt. If I can find a stock replacement, I would probably screw a piece of wood to it anyway. That way o can mount a feather board and stiffen it up a bit. I could also use this spare Biesemeyer 30" unit that I took off my cabinet saw when I upgraded its fence, but, I really don't want to mess with that at this moment.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Since it is an out of stock item I don't think the part number will help you. You might try searching on ebay for a fence. If the models don't match exactly you might need to modify the fence to fit. I have a model 113.298341 saw and the part number for the fence is 62773.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

I found the part number, however, I have been unable to locate the fence for this particular saw, the 113.226880. I have checked on eBay and several other sites, to no avail. Now I suppose that I should be looking into replacement fence options.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Now, I will probably use a piece of wood and clamp it to the table. I don't mind having to measure to the blade, I just don't want to have to constantly measure the front and rear of the fence to ensure that it is parallel to the blade.

Can any one recommend a DIY way to keep a wooden fence parallel to the blade at all times? 

(Note: this will be a dedicated dado saw and will never be used for anything else, I already own a good cabinet saw.)


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Depending on the size If you are making the same size dado's all the time you could put a strip on the bottom of the fence to fit into the miter slot. Make a different fence for each different size. On larger sizes you could make a board with a strip on the bottom to slide the fence up against. Personally I would either get an fence upgrade or get rid of the saw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's easy to search for info*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/craftsman-tablesaw-updated-tad-5705/

One of the posts states that the table is 20" deep, not the typical 27" deep on most contractor saws. This will present a problem in adapting a "standard" fence. This thread does show an updated fence, a Delta T 2. and the modifications.

The other issue with that saw, is it's a direct drive... built in motor. If the motor fails, you are SOL. there is no replacement except a parts saw on Ebay or other like Craig's List. You would be better off to make a sled for that smaller saw and use if for miters or crosscuts on small pieces. A contractor type saw would make a better dedicated "dado" only saw and will have the standard 27" deep table top, so there are many fence options.


Other info here:
http://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-006&ei=utf-8&fr=ytff1-gl-gen1&p=Craftsman%20113.226880%20table%20saw&type=


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/craftsman-tablesaw-updated-tad-5705/
> 
> One of the posts states that the table is 20" deep, not the typical 27" deep on most contractor saws. This will present a problem in adapting a "standard" fence. This thread does show an updated fence, a Delta T 2. and the modifications.
> 
> ...


Well, I got it for only $75 so I at least want to attempt to make it work. If the motor goes out, then I will either have the motor rebuilt, replaced, and only as a last option would I then replace it. I think that I can make it work though. Due to the adjustable feet on this saw, I was able to get my infeed, out feed and side feed tables that I normally use for my cabinet saw to also work perfectly with this 113 series Craftsman. That is a pretty nice convenience too.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> Depending on the size If you are making the same size dado's all the time you could put a strip on the bottom of the fence to fit into the miter slot. Make a different fence for each different size. On larger sizes you could make a board with a strip on the bottom to slide the fence up against. Personally I would either get an fence upgrade or get rid of the saw.


I like the miter slot fence idea. Only problem though is that the miter slot is only like 4" or so from the blade. So the max cut width would be limited to that, (if i understand correctly?). Another idea that I would like to throw out there would be to clamp a large piece of MDF on to the table top, covering the entire top, then have perfectly paraell lines drawn on the surface to indicate where the most common dado's would be so that I could clamp a wood fence to that exact spot, yet still have the flexibility to go out as wide as the surface of the MDF. Just need to clamp on the MDF top to the top of the saw. Then just raise the dado blade up so that it cuts its own way through the MDF. That would also negate the need for a zero clearance dado insert as it would then be built in. Does this sound reasonable?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Danny870 said:


> I like the miter slot fence idea. Only problem though is that the miter slot is only like 4" or so from the blade. So the max cut width would be limited to that, (if i understand correctly?). Another idea that I would like to throw out there would be to clamp a large piece of MDF on to the table top, covering the entire top, then have perfectly paraell lines drawn on the surface to indicate where the most common dado's would be so that I could clamp a wood fence to that exact spot, yet still have the flexibility to go out as wide as the surface of the MDF. Just need to clamp on the MDF top to the top of the saw. Then just raise the dado blade up so that it cuts its own way through the MDF. That would also negate the need for a zero clearance dado insert as it would then be built in. Does this sound reasonable?


It sounds good to me. It's just a little difficult visualizing what you are doing. The last time I worked in a shop that had a dedicated dado saw was for running dados in the back side a cabinet faceframe parts. Most of the time the farthest the fence was set was 11/16" from the blade.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> It sounds good to me. It's just a little difficult visualizing what you are doing. The last time I worked in a shop that had a dedicated dado saw was for running dados in the back side a cabinet faceframe parts. Most of the time the farthest the fence was set was 11/16" from the blade.


I use a lot of dado's when building kitchen cabinets. I always start by dado'ing my face frames so that the sides can sit inside the dado. On the lower cabinets I dado the bottom shelf at 5 & 3/8" to the bottom of the side panel. I also do a lot of half shelfsin my lower cabinets which get dado'ed in to the sides at 12.5" up from the bottom. Then for the uppers, like say a typical 36" tall upper, I will dado the top and bottom shelfs at 1 & 3/8" from the end and 1 & 7/8" to the back of the dado blade, and then move the fence to exactly 12" to the center of the blade for the two fixed shelfs in the middle, then I rabbet our the back for the 1/4" MDF back that I always put into all of my uppers. I really do not enjoy setting up dado blades hence I like to keep a dedicated saw for this purpose.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

With that many different set ups I believe I would be looking for a good fence. Even if you managed to get a craftsman fence it would be more cumbersome than it would be worth. The craftsman saw we used in the faceframe shop was set at 11/16" to run 5/8" dado down the center of a 2" stile. Then for exposed end a board was clamped to the fence to place the dado 1/4" from the edge for a plywood panel. This was at a time when cabinets were made out of particle board. By doing this the fence was rarely used. At that shop there was no dado's done on the cabinet parts, only the faceframes. Cross dado's were done on the faceframe so the person doing the assembly would know where to place the shelf. They also had a craftsman radial arm saw which was used to cut the faceframe parts and the cross dado's. The cabinet parts were cut on a 16" radial arm saw. They would cut stock size shelving and fill a rack so the guy cutting cabinet parts could just pull out shelving and cut it. They also stocked 8' lengths of shelving with a strip of screen molding on edge for the shelves that showed.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*make a "no measure" fence jig*

Dado setting jig for the table saw.

You will use the miter slot for this jig.

For example, for a dado at 6" from one end of your workpiece, use an scrap piece of 3/4" stock about 20" long and about 5" wide.

Measure over 6" to the fence. Next, measure the distance to the miter slot on the right side. In this example 2". Set the fence to that dimension and make a 3/4" wide X 3/8" deep dado. This dado will now receive a 3/4" X 3/4" strip which will fit the dado and slide in the miter slot. 


Label the jig for the 6" dimension OR the application so it will be clear what it's used for. :thumbsup:

For your production runs, drop the jig into the miter slot and bump the fence over to it and you have your 6" dado location from the fence. You will never need to measure over to the fence again for this setting AND it will always be the same 6" no matter what. It will take about 10 minutes or less to make the jig, and it will save hours of setup time OR $$$$ if the measurement was incorrect and material was wasted.

This will also work for ripping workpieces to identical widths. This will work best for crappy fences that do not lock up square when moved. Of course, you must have the fence squared up before making any cuts to make this jig... :smile3:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Dado set up jig continued*

A nifty set up jig for setting the fence to a consistent dimension for dados or ripping widths on the table saw.
Label it for the dimension or application and keep it handy if you are running production:


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Looks like you got a good start on a DIY fence. One problem with Sears is that they contract with a manufacturer and change a few things so all OEM parts won't interchange with the Sears parts. If you could find who manufactured the saw, it might be a miracle that the OEM fence will work unless it was one of the things that varied from the OEM fence. Sears figures to stock parts for a certain period of time, based on estimated usage. I used to work at Sears and saw many people disappointed when they were told parts were no longer available.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> A nifty set up jig for setting the fence to a consistent dimension for dados or ripping widths on the table saw.
> Label it for the dimension or application and keep it handy if you are running production:


Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this! However, I am not sure if I fully comprehend. Does the piece of stock to be dado'ed ride on top of the board in the miter slot? Or does the stock slide next to the left edge of the jig, which in this case is 2" from the inside edge of the dado blade? What would you do if say I was needing to put a dado on my lower cabinet side panels at exactly 5 & 7/8" to the back of the blade? That would be wider than the distance from the inside edge of the blade to the miter slot?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The example I showed ...*

 

My example is for a rabbet starting 6" from the right edge. If you want one for a rabbet 5 & 7/8" all you do is set your fence where you want it. We can't talk about "from the back of the blade", it's either from the right edge or from the left edge..... or up from the base or bottom of the cabinet. So, I'm not sure which it is you want?

So, you set your fence one time, at the proper location as you would if you were making a bunch of dados on a bunch of pieces. This jig just "remembers" where you set the fence for the next time you have to make the dados in the same location.. :smile3:


 
Then you need to know where the miter slot is relative to the fence, so take that measurement and make your dado for the miter slot strip. That's all there is to it.

 

Once you drop the set up jig in the miter slot, you set your fence and remove the jig, hang it on the wall ready for the next production run. Label it "dado for cabinet bottoms 5 & 7/8".... or what ever.


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> My example is for a rabbet starting 6" from the right edge. If you want one for a rabbet 5 & 7/8" all you do is set your fence where you want it. We can't talk about "from the back of the blade", it's either from the right edge or from the left edge..... or up from the base or bottom of the cabinet. So, I'm not sure which it is you want?
> 
> So, you set your fence one time, at the proper location as you would if you were making a bunch of dados on a bunch of pieces. This jig just "remembers" where you set the fence for the next time you have to make the dados in the same location.. :smile3:
> 
> ...



Oh wow, I see what you are saying now! That is a great idea! I will get to work on some jigs for this tomorrow. Most of the dado's that I do are very repetitive, for example, if I have a set of cabinets to build for someone's kitchen, and let's say there are 10 lower cabinets in the set, plus 2 bathroom vanities, and maybe a sink base in a laundry room, that would be 26 lower side panels, and each of the panels would have a dado in the exact same spot. Same for the uppers, let's say that there are a total of 12 uppers, I know from the start that they would all need a dado for both the top and bottom shelf, which I would make in the same spot for all 12. Then let's say the tall uppers (i.e. 36" or more) I would have to dado two fixed shelfs in those, and for a 36" upper I would set the fence to 12" to the center of the blade. 

To do this, I could make 3 different jigs and never have to measure to the blade again. That would be pretty sweet! Thanks for the advice! You just solved my fence conundrum!


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Think that I will order three miter slot bars from Rockler today. I will need to make sure that I build this jigs absolutely 100% square to the blade because the right edge of these jigs are what my fence will reference off of. That will make this much easier than having to measure it out every time I move the fence for a different cut. Thank you so much Woodnthings! You have been a tremendous help!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Just to be clear now...*

You will still need a fence of some sort, a crappy original one or a shop built one that clamps on.... You will need one to make the jig's dados and then for running the dados on the workpiece.

And it must be *parallel* to the miter slot when locked down! There is nothing on a tablesaw that is "square to the blade" except the front and rear edges of the table!

Here's shop built one I made for a bandsaw, same idea will work on the table saw. More "stuff" to build....hah ...hah...
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/shop-made-bought-bandsaw-fence-lets-see-44227/


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## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> You will still need a fence of some sort, a crappy original one or a shop built one that clamps on.... You will need one to make the jig's dados and then for running the dados on the workpiece.
> 
> And it must be *parallel* to the miter slot when locked down! There is nothing on a tablesaw that is "square to the blade" except the front and rear edges of the table!
> 
> ...


Aww, yes, you are correct! Just want to say again that I am very grateful for all the help! Now, got the 3 miter slot bars ordered from Rockler. Any tips, tricks, or helpful advice on ensuring that I get these jigs perfectly square to the miter slot?For the fence, I plan to just do one out of hardwood.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the miter slots bars are....*



Danny870 said:


> Aww, yes, you are correct! Just want to say again that I am very grateful for all the help! Now, got the 3 miter slot bars ordered from Rockler.
> 
> Any tips, tricks, or helpful advice on ensuring that I get* these jigs perfectly square to the miter slot?
> 
> *For the fence, I plan to just do one out of hardwood.



:nerd2:
You keep using the word "square" which I have explained doesn't apply. The only time you would need anything "square" is when using a miter gauge to make 90 degree crosscuts OR to make certain the blade is at 90 degrees to the table. *Square means at 90 degrees.* The miter slots are precisely machined into the top, so they are the reference for all other setups... for the blade and for the fence which must be "parallel" to them, not square. 

Any measuring must be from the miter slots to the fence to insure that it is parallel to them, both at the near and far ends. This why I thought the "dado set up jig" would be useful, since there is no need to measure for that dimension once you have the jig set to your required dimension. Then you drop the jig into the slot, bump the fence over until it touches all along, then lock it down. DONE.

I keep hammering on the terminology because words do mean specific things to us here, and we must use them correctly to get good advice and also to give proper advice. Just so you understand why.....:smile3:



As to making a fence like the one I posted using a long clamp. Take your 3/4" thick X 2" wide boards and separate them by the thickness of your bar clamp... probably about 5/16" with a narrow piece of stock or plywood, but not as tall as the 3/4" stock, so the clamp with be contained in the slot thus formed. 

Make the boards as long as the table top, PLUS 1 1/2" on the front. Up from underneath, using 4 long screws, attach a 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 7" long hardwood block at *90 degrees *to form a "T". When you tighten the clamp, it will grip on the rear edge of the table, forcing the "T" section against the front edge. This will "automatically" create a parallel condition for your fence in relation to the miter slots... in other words, a "self squaring" fence. OK, the square refers to the 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" block on the front, nothing else. :smile3:

It will look something like this:










Let's just assume that you make a fence like this and you are totally happy with it, BUT the bar of the clamp is too long and sticks out the front too far. You can just saw off the extra length to make it a dedicated clamp for this purpose, but it will still be useful for other clamping operations, just not the original length. You will always want the twist locking handle on the front for convenience.

I will make one of these for you IF you have any questions, I can't answer here. ... 2 pieces of wood for the sides, a spacer in between them, and a small block, a few screws, and a bar clamp, that's it.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

Danny870 said:


> I found the part number, however, I have been unable to locate the fence for this particular saw, the 113.226880. I have checked on eBay and several other sites, to no avail. Now I suppose that I should be looking into replacement fence options.


Be aware that the tables on that series of saws were all the same, and that virtually any Craftsman rip fence from that era will fit. They were not specific to any given saw part number. The're on eBay all the time - I sold one with the rails and an auxiliary fence for $50 on eBay last year.

This one should fit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-M...508187?hash=item5b2196165b:g:j-UAAOSwh-1W5KKG


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ya know ....*



Maylar said:


> Be aware that the tables on that series of saws were all the same, and that virtually any Craftsman rip fence from that era will fit. They were not specific to any given saw part number. The're on eBay all the time - I sold one with the rails and an auxiliary fence for $50 on eBay last year.
> 
> This one should fit:


Well maybe you didn't know... that this table saw is only 20" deep front to back, not 27" deep like most contractor saws AND that's why he's having trouble locating the proper fence AND that's why I posted how to make a simple one. ... just so's you know. :smile3:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/craftsman-tablesaw-updated-tad-5705/


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> Well maybe you didn't know... that this table saw is only 20" deep front to back, not 27" deep like most contractor saws AND that's why he's having trouble locating the proper fence AND that's why I posted how to make a simple one. ... just so's you know. :smile3:
> 
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/craftsman-tablesaw-updated-tad-5705/


... and now I know.


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## G-Man (Jan 21, 2018)

*Fence for Craftsman 113.226880*

I know this is an old post but I just ran across it. If you are still looking for this fence, I have one used VERY little, Really, like new!


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## Gladius (Nov 27, 2018)

If you still have it G-man I'm looking for a new fence for my craftsman 113.298051.


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