# How to cut angle iron



## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

I am looking for a cheap, easy and safe way to cut some angle iron on my table saw fence. I don't have a reciprocating saw, angle grinder or cutting torch. And the hack saw I have simply isn't going to cut it, pun intended. 

Is there a blade that I could buy to put in my jig saw that would cut it?

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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

Perhaps use a metal cutting angle grinder wheel to replace the saw blade.
johnep


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

johnep34 said:


> Perhaps use a metal cutting angle grinder wheel to replace the saw blade.
> johnep




You could use a carborundum blade.

Watch out for fire. :furious:

Or, you could buy a quality hack saw blade. :smile:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

+1 on a good quality hack saw blade. 

You can also purchase bi-metallic blades for the jig saw to cut metal.


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## Gary300 (Mar 28, 2014)

I have used a 10" DeWalt metal cutting chop saw blade in my radial arm saw to cut 3/4" angle iron, and it worked well. Perhaps this would work in your table saw. Go slow to avoid excessive heat build up. Lots of sparks, so face mask is mandatory!


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Go to HF and pick up an angle grinder for 15 bucks. They come with extra brushes. They are junk but for the price they are worth it. I get 3 or 4 years out of one before they are completely toast.

Then go somewhere else and buy some cut off wheels. I don't recommend buying the cut off wheels they sell at HF. I buy Norton wheels at my local hardware for a couple bucks each.


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

Gary300 said:


> I have used a 10" DeWalt metal cutting chop saw blade in my radial arm saw to cut 3/4" angle iron, and it worked well. Perhaps this would work in your table saw. Go slow to avoid excessive heat build up. Lots of sparks, so face mask is mandatory!


I wouldn't be able to cut it on my table saw or miter saw as the angle iron is already on the saw. I don't feel like taking it off completely.






BassBlaster said:


> Go to HF and pick up an angle grinder for 15 bucks. They come with extra brushes. They are junk but for the price they are worth it. I get 3 or 4 years out of one before they are completely toast.
> 
> Then go somewhere else and buy some cut off wheels. I don't recommend buying the cut off wheels they sell at HF. I buy Norton wheels at my local hardware for a couple bucks each.


This may be the way to go for me or using a hack saw. It may not be in my budget right now. I currently need to replace my random orbit sander, table saw pulleys and belt, as well as a mobile stand for my saw along with materials and a couple of other hand tools for a couple of other jobs around the house. 

Cutting down this may be put on the back burner for now but it's always good to get some ideas well in advance.



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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Not knowing what other tools you have, I would say...

#1. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up one of their cheap 4-1/2" angle grinders for $14.99 (Have a coupon? Even cheaper!). In heavy use you will likely kill one in about half the time you would kill a $100.00 Makita... In hobby / occasional use it should last you until you are sick of looking at it...
#2. While at Harbor Freight, get a pack of their 60 grit metal cut off wheels for that grinder. I have used the Nortons, I have used the HF wheels. No real difference in function aside from price. The Norton wheels do a better job of emptying out your wallet.

I would not recommend cutting it on the table saw as it would be far too prone to kickback, however, if you have a miter saw... go to Home Depot or Lowes, and pick up a 10" (assuming that is your miter saw size) abrasive cut off blade. You WILL produce a ton of sparks doing this so be careful!


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Any way you do it, not counting the hacksaw, use safety GOGGLES. Those hot metal sparks can get around safety glasses and removing steel shards from an eyeball ain't fun. :thumbdown:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

juice3250 said:


> I am looking for a cheap, easy and safe way to cut some angle iron on my table saw fence. I don't have a reciprocating saw, angle grinder or cutting torch. And the hack saw I have simply isn't going to cut it, pun intended.
> 
> Is there a blade that I could buy to put in my jig saw that would cut it?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Yes,s they make metal cutting blades for jig saws.

I have bought them at Sears. I have cut angle iron with them.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*sparks plus sawdust = fire*

Do not cut metal where there is sawdust! :thumbdown: Have a clean work area whether you use a sawzall, sabre saw, or an abrasive wheel as a small spark can ignite a dust pile and you won't even know until there is a larger fire. I grind all my metal projects outside whenever possible. It's better for you lungs also. :yes:

A metal cutting bandsaw would be my first choice, then a cutoff wheel, then a hacksaw.... if there were only a few cuts to make.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Pick up a couple good quality hacksaw blades, 18 TPI and go at it. Take your time, 1 stroke per second. You shouldn't need the second blade but if you do accidentally break the first one don't continue in the same cut, start from the other side and cut to meet the first one. Draw lines to follow before you start.


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## big treble (May 10, 2012)

If you want cheap and no sparks, sounds like a new hacksaw blade is your only option, especially since you really don't want to remove it from your dust filled wood working tools.

The only other easy no spark method is more expensive. That would be a cold cut saw blade for your circular saw, but if your saw is not heavy duty it can be hard on the motors if used a lot.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

If you had one a hand held band saw works great for that.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

Since you don't want to remove the angle iron from your saw and you have limited tools available it would make sense to me that he best way to address this is with a good quality hacksaw. After all it really not that big a job.

Paul


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

Fastback said:


> Since you don't want to remove the angle iron from your saw and you have limited tools available it would make sense to me that he best way to address this is with a good quality hacksaw. After all it really not that big a job.
> 
> Paul


I went out tonight and bought a new blade for my hacksaw. It is an 18 tooth per inch. It came with two. I'm gonna give it a try. If it doesn't cut it, then I will step it up to a more tooth per inch blade.

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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the number of teeth...*



juice3250 said:


> I went out tonight and bought a new blade for my hacksaw. It is an 18 tooth per inch. It came with two. I'm gonna give it a try. If it doesn't cut it, then I will step it up to a *more tooth per inch blade.*
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


The deal is .... the more teeth per inch, the thinner the material.
You would ideally like 3 teeth in contact with the material at all times. Your 18 TPI blades will suit most thicknesses down to 5/32" just fine. A 24 TPI blade is next in the line up and may prove to be "less aggressive" in the manner it cuts, and therefore.... slower.


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> The deal is .... the more teeth per inch, the thinner the material.
> You would ideally like 3 teeth in contact with the material at all times. Your 18 TPI blades will suit most thicknesses down to 5/32" just fine. A 24 TPI blade is next in the line up and may prove to be "less aggressive" in the manner it cuts, and therefore.... slower.


OK. Thanks.

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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

If you have a fair amount of metal cutting to do, an abrasive chop saw like this comes in real handy: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-14-inch-heavy-duty-cut-off-saw-91938.html Not necessarily that brand but you get the idea. I bought one from Pep Boys years ago for well under $100 and it comes out when I have more than a hacksaw's worth of steel to cut. Keep it away from combustibles, though. I use mine in the garage with the sparks aimed out to the driveway. I have also found that the brand of abrasive wheel makes a big difference in cutting speed.










Bill


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## mrbc (Apr 9, 2014)

Not sure where the solution stands, but I'll add my proposed solution to my metal cutting needs. Might consider the Lennox circular blades. They make a 20" and a 7 1/4" that fit on circ saws and miter saws. Can be bought from Lowes and others. Haven't yet used one but the product videos look OK (of course). Reviews are mostly positive. The downside is noise and sparks, but with a miter saw you have the benefit of the fence. My saw is not mounted so its easy for me to set up outside for sparks... but remove any dust bags!


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Before putting a metal cutting blade on any woodworking circular saw check how much plastic is in the vicinity of the blade.


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## Jetmugg (Apr 28, 2014)

A lot depends on the dimensions of the angle iron, and how many cuts you need to make.

As another poster described, I would prefer to use a metal cutting bandsaw first, then a grinder/cutoff wheel combo. Hand hacksaw as a last resort, especially if the angle iron is thick. 

Cutting metal with fire is good also, but you don't seem to have access to a plasma cutter.

I can't think of a good, safe way to use a table saw for this purpose.

Steve


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## Jetmugg (Apr 28, 2014)

Sawzall is good too, if a high level of precision is not required.


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

I ended up using a hacksaw with an 18 tooth per inch blade and lubricated with oil as I was cutting. I think the thickness of the angle iron was about 3/16" thick. It was definitely a little thicker than 1/8". It took me about 30 minutes to cut two pieces. I can post some pictures a little later. I made sure to keep it lubricated and kept pivoting the blade as I was cutting.

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