# Ist Easywood turnings



## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Well I had my chance to try out my new toys.
I am very new to this and just trying to get things set up so I can turn a lot this fall and winter....man this is addictive and fun!!!

I know these are caveman compared to you guys, but I'm working on minimizing my sanding time and going inside a vessel.

I introduced these new tools to my system.

My new Easywood rougher & scraper and a nova chuck.










My homemade Longworth chuck










The blocks were temporary until I got my parts from Woodline.com.

I turned all three of these out in about three hours including unpacking and setting up.

Mahogany from a Newel Post scrap



















Black cherry air dried bowl




























I need a lot of design and form refinement so I find myself really looking at the shape of bowls these days.

So any and all critique is welcome.

Thanks to all of you who have shared info on my prior posts about starting this addictive art.:thumbsup:


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## txpaulie (Jul 21, 2010)

Lookin' good!:thumbsup:

The best piece of advice I received was, "turn 100 bowls".

I'm not there yet, but I can see a big improvement from #5 to # 50!:yes:

There's so much yet I'm itching to try...

'shrooms, for instance!:laughing:

...and pens, and tool handles, and lamp bases, and...

p


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## b00kemdano (Feb 10, 2009)

These look really good.

I'd like to see that cherry bowl in a couple days or weeks. With the pith right through the middle like that, I'd be surprised if it didn't warp or crack on you. How dry was it when you started? Did you dry it yourself, or buy a dried blank?


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

These are blanks I made from a cherry tree I cut down 2 years ago, cut it into 2" slabs and dried it overhead in the garage.

These four bowls are turned from the same slab










I turned the darker ones a month ago and they have darkened just by sitting around and being used all the time.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

When I was first learning to turn, one very experienced turner said something to me that really stuck. He felt that a bowl should have a nice smooth continuous curve both inside and out. Anything with straight(er) sides, he referrred to as a dog dish. The walls should be as close to uniform in thickness as possible. One way he had us practice this was to turn a small bowl and then take it to the bandsaw and cut it in half. Very hard to do when you're starting out as every piece feels like a masterpiece to you. 

Several critiques of the cherry bowl: There are still visible tool marks. The chuck recess seems a little deep...you don't need that much for the chuck to hold. Decorate the bottom of your bowls, because everyone always turns them over to look at the bottom.

The little one looks great. Like TX said, turn 100 bowls. Keep turnin' and learnin'.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

TC,
You're off to a good start. Our first bowls all look pretty simular, straight sides, a bit thick, etc. These bowls work really good for task work. I have one on my dresser I put my change in, known as a 'pocket butler'. Keep working on the shapes. When you are forming the bottom side, concentrate on getting rid of the outside lower corner. This will help your bottom become more rounded. Take a bowl from the kitchen out to your shop with you to compare the shape and give you something to visualize. Once you get the shape down, work on getting a little thinner. If you plan on using the bowl, don't get it too thin. Turn a few thin ones (1/8"walls) for the heck of it, then you'll find a happy medium. All in all, good work, keep it up.
Mike Hawkins


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Thanks so much, Mike.
I really enjoyed this session and for the first time was able to relax my shoulder muscles and get more of a "feel" for the tool.

I like to be able to see some sort of form before I just start removing wood but was just playing with the new toys.

I like your idea of modeling a plate or a bowl from the cupboard.

I envy the shapes you create and as txpaulie said ....turn 100 bowls.....I only have 90 to go......:laughing:


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

How do you like the easy wood tools. I am looking at buying one. Did you get the full size or mid size?
Tom


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

I bought the two larger sizes
The rougher & the finisher

The round finisher was awesome. I could go inside the bowl and not worry about catching a edge. 

The shavings were coming off in ribbons 3-4' long. 

I absolutely love them


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

sawdustfactory said:


> When I was first learning to turn, one very experienced turner said something to me that really stuck. He felt that a bowl should have a nice smooth continuous curve both inside and out. Anything with straight(er) sides, he referrred to as a dog dish. The walls should be as close to uniform in thickness as possible. One way he had us practice this was to turn a small bowl and then take it to the bandsaw and cut it in half. Very hard to do when you're starting out as every piece feels like a masterpiece to you.
> 
> Several critiques of the cherry bowl: There are still visible tool marks. The chuck recess seems a little deep...you don't need that much for the chuck to hold. Decorate the bottom of your bowls, because everyone always turns them over to look at the bottom.
> 
> The little one looks great. Like TX said, turn 100 bowls. Keep turnin' and learnin'.


Thanks so much for the critique.

Tool marks - Should I sand more or slow my cuts down? How do you minimize tool marks?

Recess - I wondered about that one but was scared of not having it deep enough.
How deep is recommended?
Is the same true of a tenon?

This is great being able to have artists like yourself share such valuable info for beginners like myself.:thumbsup:


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

As for tool marks try taking lighter cuts first. As for the recess, if the inner portion is flat ( and it should be) and has a nice clean, square edge ( again it should) then there is a lot of surface area for the chuck to contact. I like my tenons a little long, but they should not bottom out in the chuck. Also check your chuck, some require a dovetail, some straight.

Looking great for your first ten, only 90 more to go. ;-)


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

One other thing about chucking with a recess. Once you have it mounted, give it a good twist to check it. Check it every so often as you turn. Oh, and stand out of the line of fire :-0


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

sawdustfactory said:


> Also check your chuck, some require a dovetail, some straight.


Mine is a dovetail..... good? bad?


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

a dovetail should give you better grip
i have plenty of trouble with tool marks still too so hopefully practice will make better not perfect lol
you sure look to be off to a good start to me:thumbsup:


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

dovetail or straight, you can argue for either...just need to know what shape tenon you need to cut


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

really nice work


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## ronjboucher (Jun 28, 2010)

*take it to next level*



tcleve4911 said:


> Well I had my chance to try out my new toys.
> I am very new to this and just trying to get things set up so I can turn a lot this fall and winter....man this is addictive and fun!!!
> 
> I know these are caveman compared to you guys, but I'm working on minimizing my sanding time and going inside a vessel.
> ...


Looking at your turning projects, I can feel you enjoyment and pride of accomplishment, well done.

If I may

Turnoff, the bottoms(all), big ugly chuck holes.

1. Woodcraft sells a 1 in. 8 threads tap to make waste blocks. Good investment. Easy to make, I mass produce 12 or more at a time.

2. Either purchase a flat plate with pins/chuck comes as a kit, from Penn State or make jamb chucks, a great way to rework the bottom of your projects.

3. Voila ugly holes all gone. Ron Marietta Ga.


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