# TableSaw - Miter Gauge vs Panel Sled vs CC Sled



## Suzanne Queen (Jul 7, 2017)

I am looking for rules of thumb on what situations call for which solutions. 

I use a miter gauge with an extended arm for cross cutting thinner pieces. For wider pieces that doesn't work and a cross cut sled would extend too far off the front of the table. So here it seems that a panel sled (stop on leading edge) is better.

If I needed to cross cut a really wide piece I guess I would use a table on the left of the saw and hand support the trailing edge of the work as I push it along the fence.

So the questions are: which conditions are ideal for a traditional crosscut sled (when is it better than a miter gauge) and is there anything wrong (unsafe on inaccurate) with my methods above?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Nope, you've got it!*

The width of the material determines the best method to cross cut it. I use and extended fence on the miter gauge 90% of the time, cutting right into it since it's tall enough to permit that. I use the standard rip fence to crosscut wide pieces of plywood for panels and cabinets. My table will rip to the center of a 48" panel so there is no issue of "not enough capacity".










A warning on crosscutting panels! 
Use the splitter or the riving knife at all times! A kickback will occur when the rear edge of the panel comes off the fence at the rear of the blade, rotates and jumps on top of the spinning blade coming directly back at you!:surprise2:

You must have a proper out feed table to support panels and long rips. If you don't have one, build one. It's one of most important safety accessories you have add to your table saw. It will help you in NOT reaching over or behind the spinning blade to "save" a workpiece from falling to the shop floor. :surprise2:

I made a beautiful cross cut sled with adjustable angles on either side of the blade as well as a front fence and I've yet to use it. Pprobably because I haven't had the need. 
Here's the build thread:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/table-saw-sled-build-49218/


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## Suzanne Queen (Jul 7, 2017)

Thanks! I have the original MJ Splitter on the saw now but I wish it did have a proper riving knife. I will search other posts to see if it make sense to upgrade to the newer dual splitter from MJ.


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## Suzanne Queen (Jul 7, 2017)

woodnthings said:


> Use the splitter or the riving knife at all times!


This got me thinking and wondering if my MJ splitter is any less safe than the splitter that was part of the blade-guard assembly that was once part of this unit. 

I looked around that "auction site" and it looks like that complete assembly can be had for $50+ and plenty more for shipping. Not a good deal unless it is very much safer than the MJ splitter. I do realize that the splitter that came with the machine tilted with the blade, so that is one plus for the original equipment.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The auction site is great!*

Ebay is not a bad word in my vocabulary. I've had great luck in buying stuff there from old hand planes to electric sanders, to truck parts.
This is what you probably had on your saw:









It has a blade guard and splitter combined. I didn't like the blade guard, so I drilled out the rivets, removed the antikick back pawls and plastic guard leaving only the splitter. I then attached my own wood blade guard which I can pivot at any angle over the blade. See it in the photo I posted above.

The splitter does not allow you to make partial depth cut because it's in the way. Taking it on and off can be a PITA to get it aligned parallel to the blade again, BUT it's worth it , in my opinion. It will absolutely prevent the rotational type of kickback where the work comes away from the fence at the rear and jumps over on top of the blade! It can't move away from the fence because the splitter retains it. Simple. 

Of course, it also functions as a splitter to keep the kerf open when the wood reacts to internal stresses and closes on the rear of the blade, either jamming it or propelling it up and over back at you.
I didn't have my splitters on for years and then realized how and why they were necessary. Now they do not come off. I have a newer saw where the riving knife snaps in and out quickly, so when I need to make a partial cut I use that saw.

Go for it. :thumbsup:


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## ducbsa (Jul 6, 2014)

Can you post a pic of your own wood blade guard?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Check the photo above*



ducbsa said:


> Can you post a pic of your own wood blade guard?


It's in the photo I posted above.


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## ducbsa (Jul 6, 2014)

Thanks, but when I try to enlarge it to see details it is blurry.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*how it's made ...*

It's made of 3 pieces, and some washers and a bolt. The red side pieces are just 1/4" plywood, the center is either 1/4" or 3/16" maybe 1/8"... can't recall. They are a snug fit on the splitter and they can be tightened using the bolt and washer for a "friction" fit.

You are limited to the max cut thickness by the space remaining under the side pieces, but for me that's enough, about 2 1/2" or so. It's more of a reminder to keep your hands away than a protective device. It also deflects a good amount of sawdust off the spinning blade. It is always used with a zero clearance throat plate, another valuable safety accessory to keep narrow strips from sliding into the gap between the blade and the plate and the tendency to retrieve them while the blade is spinning. :surprise2:


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

There are always different ways to make a cut.
I have a Incra mitergauge, as well as a few others. The other day, I realized, it has been in a cabinet for months. I do 90% + cross cuts ( up to about 20" ) on my ras.
small pieces I cut on a small sled on the ts.


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