# Ryobi table saw v Kreg rip cut guide



## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

Hello all, as rookie woodworker I'm trying to work out what equipment will be most useful to own. Together with some other tools I'm using my dad's old Emco Star 5-in-1 combination machine and although it's very convenient to have several tools in such a small footprint it's also pretty limited in what you can do with it. The table saw's table, for instance, is less than A3 size and it was pretty difficult the other day to cut short pieces off a longer piece of wood, because the weight of the long end made it so difficult to keep the wood flat on the table right through the cut.

So I'm looking at other ways to cut sections off the larger pieces of mdf and other wood I still have, but I don't have a specific project at the moment. I saw a small two-year-old Ryobi table saw - still seems a lot bigger than the Emco Star! - on Gumtree today for less than a new Kreg rip cut guide. I already have a circular saw, so the guide should also work, but then I'd still need some kind of surface on which to put the material I want to cut, of course.

I'm guessing the table saw, as low end as it is, would probably be more useful than the guide at the moment, but then I'd need to clear some space to use it. Oh, and there are no legs on the table, but I can just put it on any sturdy table or have legs made for it out of angle iron, right?


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Many of us use a portable hand held circular saw to cut large sheet good and long lengths of lumber. 
A rip guide is very useful on the sheet material. 
Once cut into smaller lengths and easier to handle, the table saw takes over as the go-to saw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Here's some "sage" advice ....*

Get your self a decent circular saw and two different saw guides.
This one for crosscutting:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Squa...361862&hash=item213aa556dc:g:OfkAAOSw8LBapLE9

OR make them:
https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/saws/two-essential-saw-cutting-guides/view-all/

https://images.search.yahoo.com/sea...osscut+guide+ciurcular+saw&fr2=piv-web&fr=sfp

And for ripping, your Kreg guide or :
https://images.search.yahoo.com/sea...p-images.search.yahoo.com&ei=UTF-8&n=60&x=wrt

OR make one:
https://tombuildsstuff.blogspot.com/2012/10/how-to-cut-plywood-with-circular-saw.html







Don't use an undersize table saw of any brand, they are just too dangerous.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

What model of Ryobi table saw? I have a Ryobi BT3000 table saw and use a hand held circular saw (18 volt cordless) with a 9' long aluminum guide clamped to the sheet for breaking down sheet goods. I lay four, straight 2x4s (don't know what the SA equivalent is) on the floor to support the sheet while cutting.


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## andr0id (Jan 11, 2018)

I don't have much room either. I bought a track saw and a small contractor size table saw. 

I built a portable 4x8' table using saw horses, a 2x4 frame, and a 1" sheet of 4x8" insulation board to cut sheet goods on. 

I can get my large plywood parts perfect with the track saw and only need to use the table saw for ripping and cross cutting board lumber.

Pushing 4x8' sheets across a table saw is not safe unless you have 16' of infeed + outfeed table and that requires a large shop.


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

OK, I've decided against buying anything new right away, since I don't have any particular needs right now. Thought the TS might be a good buy, but looking at it again, I realised that it didn't only not come with legs, but with nothing else such as a fence or guard either! Other Ryobis of the same size, but priced higher seemed much cleaner and more complete. This was a 1,500 W, BTW.

I've already seen numerous videos of people demonstrating both the Kreg Accu-cut and Rip cut guide, but this one posted by woodnthings has also led me to demos of other Kreg tools such as the jig for pocket screws. That wall cabinet was up in a flash, it seemed to me, but someone commented that it was a slow way of putting something like that together, just to show off the jig. Is this true?

I took the Emco's band saw blade to a place in town to hear about replacements and a very helpful gentleman explained to me that it would have to be outsourced to be made up at a minimum of five blades per order, which I went for. When I asked him about sanding belts for the sander he said they'd also have to be made up, but by yet another place. He gave me their name, but said they were only open on weekdays. Oh well, I thought, and resigned myself to not being able to have new sanding belts made until I'd be on leave again, but as he handed me the order form he'd just filled out he said he'd try and sort the sanding belts out for me as well! :surprise2:

Now just to find out a bit more about that small dust extraction system I saw at another shop. :wink: The Emco doesn't make provision for dust extraction, but maybe I'd be able to mcgyver it to work?!? :grin:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*custom length sanding belts?*

Maybe in your state, but typically they are a standard length...24' 36"...48" . If Amazon ships world wide that could be a source IF you know the exact length...?


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

woodnthings said:


> Maybe in your state, but typically they are a standard length...24' 36"...48" . If Amazon ships world wide that could be a source IF you know the exact length...?


Apparently the Emco's sanding belts were a lot narrower than the ones you get currently, to the extent that people nowadays might say they're not even worth it. I don't have the one that I took off the machine with me anymore, since I'd left it with the chap who offered to see if he could have new ones made for me, but if I look at a tape measure and try to think back at its width I don't think it could be more than 2 1/2". Even less, in fact, because I think it would be no more than 55 mm and my conversion app shows that as 2,16-odd", but I don't know what fraction of an inch 0,16" is... Close to 1/6 or 1/7, I guess?

I also asked him about finding paper for the disk sander, which at 170 mm is just over 6 1/2" in diameter and he said most people who can't find the correct size disks for their sanders buy the 1 metre long rolls of "floor sanding paper," as it's called here, and cut their own. Maybe he even meant most people in general, because that paper certainly seemed very cheap, compared to the disks I saw in the same shop!


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## mjadams61 (Jan 1, 2016)

I dont had a ryobi but I do have the Rigid R4516 got at home depot a few months back when it was on sale and like it alot for a portable tablesaw especially after I got everything squared up and align. I also have the kregg rip cut guide and to tell the truth I used it about 3 times and its alright but I am a short guy 5'8" with short arms and anything over a foot was kinda a pain for me. I made my own saw guides from 1"x4"x8' popular slats from home depot and 1/2inch sanded plywood. I made 3 of them 2ft, 4ft, 8ft. and can use them much better and I have either home depot or lowes cut down any large sheets I need cut down roughly close to measurments I need and use my DIY guides and my portable tablesaw for final. The kregg ripcut sits on the shelf collecting dust now.


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## mjadams61 (Jan 1, 2016)

Now I dont have room for this but in the future hopefully near future I will 
http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/safety-speed-mfg-pro2k


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

My first "new" table saw was a Ryobi which lasted approximately 1 year. I then invested in a decent used Craftsman table saw and upgraded the fence on it to a Align-a-rip fence and I'm still not satisfied. I'm giving serious thought to a Sawstop saw, but I'd run away from the Ryobi if at all possible. For the price of the best Ryobi table saw you can probably get a MUCH better older Craftsman saw and for another bill and some change upgrade the fence for about $125.. All told, a good old 113 series Craftsman saw and align-a-rip fence you're looking at under $400.. You can often find older craftsman saws with the better fence upgrades on craigslist for around $350 or even less.. MUCH better saw than anything from Ryobi in my opinion.. At the very least check out your local craigslist listings for table saws. You might have to drive around a bit, but in the long run you'll likely find a much better deal than anything from the dreaded R saws..
Heck, I see old Craftsman saws on CL under $250 all the time.. I think I paid $150 for mine..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

If you're looking for sanding belts and disks you'll be hard pressed to find a better deal than Klingspor.. https://www.woodworkingshop.com <--- their online store
It's the only place I bother buying sanding supplies anymore..low cost and high quality..nice combination.


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

OK, the shop who'd had the band saw blades made up for me has let me know that they're done, so I'll go and collect them on Saturday. I didn't ask, but I'm curious to know if they've also sorted out some sanding belts for me... :smile2: Had occasion to use my handheld belt sander on a tiny piece of wood for the first time this past weekend and I must say a mounted sander would've worked better, but on the whole the handheld also did the job, and would probably do a better job on larger items than the Emco's belt sander. I can see the convenience of having a mounted sander right at hand when sawing though.

I've decided against getting a table saw for the time being, but there is a very nice heavy working table at one of the local shops that is calling out to me. Thick wooden legs with a 1" plywood top with a lot of holes all over for dogs. Think it would work well with a guide and my circular saw if I can get a piece of isoboard or something to put on top for protection...

I needed something for more accurate measurements, so I bought myself an Incra T ruler. That thing is amazing! :surprise2::vs_cool:


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## KennK (Sep 29, 2017)

For ripping plywood and similar material, a higher quality alternative to the Kreg Rip Cut is the Eurekazone.com Universal Edge Guide (UEG). You attach a circular saw to Eurekazone's "Smart Base", and then attach the UEG for ripping.

The same Circular Saw + Smart Base can also be used on Eurekazone's guide rails (tracks) which can be purchased separately - think track saw, giving very high quality accurate cuts. Add their Miter Square to make repeated cross cuts with an angle as you set it.

If you want to use the guide rails to cut 48" long material I'd suggest a 64" long rail, with two Smart Clamps. To cut 96" long material you just buy an additional 48" rail and two rail connectors and attach the 48" rail to the 64" rail.

There are a bunch of videos on Youtube - search using "Eurekazone". Eurekazone's web site is http://www.eurekazone.com. 

I've been using their rails and accessories for quite a few years. I recently bought their EZ-One. I actually am avoiding buying a table saw to avoid injury risk (I got this old with 10 fingers!). BTW, I also use a Compound Sliding Miter saw for cross cutting.


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

allpurpose said:


> If you're looking for sanding belts and disks you'll be hard pressed to find a better deal than Klingspor.. https://www.woodworkingshop.com <--- their online store
> It's the only place I bother buying sanding supplies anymore..low cost and high quality..nice combination.


I didn't have it with me when I first read your post, but I just thought I should let you know that we have them here too! :vs_cool::grin:


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

stadleroux said:


> OK, the shop who'd had the band saw blades made up for me has let me know that they're done, so I'll go and collect them on Saturday. I didn't ask, but I'm curious to know if they've also sorted out some sanding belts for me... :smile2: Had occasion to use my handheld belt sander on a tiny piece of wood for the first time this past weekend and I must say a mounted sander would've worked better, but on the whole the handheld also did the job, and would probably do a better job on larger items than the Emco's belt sander. I can see the convenience of having a mounted sander right at hand when sawing though.
> 
> I've decided against getting a table saw for the time being, but there is a very nice heavy working table at one of the local shops that is calling out to me. Thick wooden legs with a 1" plywood top with a lot of holes all over for dogs. Think it would work well with a guide and my circular saw if I can get a piece of isoboard or something to put on top for protection...
> 
> I needed something for more accurate measurements, so I bought myself an Incra T ruler. That thing is amazing! :surprise2::vs_cool:


:clap: So I picked up my five brand-new band saw blades and six sanding belts that they'd also had made for me at the shop yesterday, and fitted one of each with the help of the manual, learning more and more about the machine all the time. Also figured out how to disengage the clutch between the table saw and the belt sander so that the former can be used without having the latter running right next to it at the same time... :laugh2: The clutch was a little jammed, but I levered it out with two small screwdrivers and cleaned it with brake cleaner. Shunted it in and out numerous times and now it's pretty easy to operate. Sanding dust will probably jam it up quite soon again, but at least I now know how to unjam it! :grin:


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## OldDon (Feb 19, 2018)

While waiting for a project you might built up an in feed or out feed extension table to expand the size of your TS's table. Also buy or built a movable support with a roller for helping with long/large wood pieces. In the USA Harbor Freight sells a support for about a few dollars. Should be easy to make if you can't find something like this.



https://www.harborfreight.com/132-lb-capacity-roller-stand-68898.html


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

OldDon said:


> While waiting for a project you might built up an in feed or out feed extension table to expand the size of your TS's table. Also buy or built a movable support with a roller for helping with long/large wood pieces. In the USA Harbor Freight sells a support for about a few dollars. Should be easy to make if you can't find something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/132-lb-capacity-roller-stand-68898.html



What a great idea, thank you very much for that! I'll find out if something similar is available here, but if not it would obviously be a lot easier to make something as infinitely adjustable as that out of metal rather than wood, and that is my brother's forte, not mine. I'll ask him! :wink:



Oh, and I actually already have a project lined up: Both my bathroom cabinets, made out of chipboard, have swollen out of shape as a result of water damage, so I intend making new ones after having seen how simple they actually are to make. I'll probably use shutterply though, but I must still decide on the thickness of the ply to use. Most plans and videos I've seen seem to use 3/4", so I guess that's the one to go for?


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

OK, I've decided to postpone the bathroom cabinets mentioned above and rather build myself a simple workbench first to create some standing and clamping room for when I eventually do get to those cabinets... :grin: Once again, I've seen some really innovative stuff on Youtube, I really like this guy's video, even though I probably won't build a bench just like his. 




I like his way of presenting and he's certainly got me started on a lot of ideas! :vs_cool:He built his bench out of birch plywood, but I see people here saying you could just as well use the cheapest ply you can get, which would be pine around here. What thickness, 3/4" or 1"? I would like it to be good and heavy! I could put on a masonite or MDF top, but I think I might save on the amount of stock I'd have to buy if I could use one type only. Going to look at prices on Saturday.


Oh, and my band saw is like it's just come out of the box with its new blade! :vs_OMG:I could see when I had the old blade off the machine that there were areas on it where the teeth were just about completely gone and when I was still using it it would turn like something crazy. I would have to move the object I was trying to saw around to try and follow the blade and keep it on the line I was sawing, but the other day I just sawed two small blocks quickly and the new blade went through them like butter, in spite of me forgetting to tighten the blade! Can count myself very lucky that the blade didn't come off, but tightening the blade before using it is a habit I'd have to acquire with more frequent use, I guess... :|


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

The Kreg rip guide can be very helpful but you will still be passing the saw over the wood versus passing the wood over the saw with a table saw. 
Prior to a rip guide, woodworkers clamped a straight edge (could be another board) to saw against as the guide. 
A bolt-on guide is good for someone who wants to get the most from a circular saw. But for the very next cut it may be in the way and you need to remove it. 
I own a Kreg rip guide and it’s just another helpful “do-dad”. 
I have many do-dads. 
If I had to choose one over the other, I will choose the table saw. Even a cheap table saw wins for me. 
I started my woodworking with a small 8” tablesaw. It allowed me to start developing a few basic skills and a desire to get a better saw in the future and more tools.


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

Toolman50 said:


> The Kreg rip guide can be very helpful but you will still be passing the saw over the wood versus passing the wood over the saw with a table saw.
> Prior to a rip guide, woodworkers clamped a straight edge (could be another board) to saw against as the guide.
> A bolt-on guide is good for someone who wants to get the most from a circular saw. But for the very next cut it may be in the way and you need to remove it.
> I own a Kreg rip guide and it’s just another helpful “do-dad”.
> ...



Yeees, I have a bit of a weakness for those do-dads! I do believe, however, there's a fine line between just another do-dad and the right tool for the job, and I have a firm belief in the latter. I've basically discarded the idea of a rip guide, for now(!), in favour of an Accu-cut, because it seems it would be more useful in different situations than the rip guide. Even so, I can get by without either one at the moment, because in most cases I can have stock cut where I buy them, but that might obviously change when I have the additional working space of a bench... :wink:


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## stadleroux (Apr 18, 2018)

While googling around for ideas to make shutterply somewhat more water resistant today I came upon someone warning that it's not a good idea to glue sheets of plywood together with PVA glue, as the water in the glue could cause warping in the plywood, so now I'm wondering what would be best: 
some other type of glue,

PVA glue with screws to keep the sheets together

or screws only.
 I intend using two layers of plywood for my workbench's top, with a layer of tempered hardboard, if it's not too expensive, on top, and some meranti edging. I'm hoping to cut the hardboard accurately enough that I can simply let it down into the edging without screwing it down, but the ply underneath will have to be attached to each other in some way.
The legs will probably be five 4" wide lengths glued together each, so they'd be small enough not to warp too much, or not? If the bench is approximately 61" long, will the stretchers down the length warp if they're two layers glued together?


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