# Old fashion wall panels



## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

I'm a new jack but not new to woodworking,i perfer building most things from scatch when i can.Its easier to order but not near as rewarding.I purchased some stock material and prefabed these wall panels at my home shop,popped them in,of course they fit like a glove.We had the painter spray them insted of brushing them,for a better finish.There very simple to make and really don't cost all that much to make.They were installed in a 130 year old home on long island.


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## Tom R (Oct 11, 2006)

Very impressive, to say the least.

Great touch!! :thumbsup:


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## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

Thank you Tom,its worth the effort when you here comments like yours


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

Those are great lookin!


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## David (Oct 30, 2006)

Nice work, Wiz.

Is it safe to assume that the walls in the first pic are square and plumb and the ceiling planes fairly flat? And since I am assuming, you re-built the stairs, right? Looks like new treads and skirts. 

I'm just curious to learn more about the whole process.


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## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

*Not quite*

The walls in 130 year old house level ? you're funny,the first pic wall is actually level,it was an added half bath.the stairs with cherry treads were purchase,we just installed them and dressed them up a bit,the beading on the back and front stringer were made on site to replicate the original stairs,not to mention they look much better than the typical trim most carpenters use.When making these panels we add the appropiate amount for scribing to the wall,height is not an issue ,6" base moulding will cover the gap.We did however have to relocate some duct work to avoid cutting into the panels, lowered the outlets and turned them sidways so we could mount them in the base trim(not to code but he said he'll take the heat if nessasary),the homeowner wanted a nice clean look.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Very nice. I can't wait to see the handrail once you have it installed.


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## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

Funny you should mention railings,the stairs are very narrow and he specificaly did not want to put them up until all the furishings were brought up stairs,its been a while and he said he don't mind it the way it is at least until he's about 80 years old and needs them.


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## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

I found a couple more views


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## Tom R (Oct 11, 2006)

nywoodwizard said:


> lowered the outlets and turned them sidways so we could mount them in the base trim


Good move, - - that just added to the 'old world' look, anyway.

I'm not aware of that being against code, - - maybe I'm wrong . . .


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

Wizzard,

Reallly looks good. I like flat panels with an overlay molding too. I didn't see much of it used in the East till the 90's. You get a lot of base and relief that way. Your profile looks like one I really like and had knives ground for in 4 or 5 different sizes. 

Tom R.,

I don't think you are mistaken - at least on a national code level. I don't think I ever trimmed a house in Westchester County NY or Fairfield County CT that DIDN'T have the outlets in the base.

In fact here's a link to the preface of an article I wrote a couple years ago dealing specifically with that issue. It was never published , possibly because I wrote it to harrass the nazi editor I had who was always armed with a full automatic eraser capable of wiping out whole paragraphs with a three swipe burst.

You may get a kick out of it Tom. Nathan, if you are around and would like to put it on your new website - send me an email. 

http://www.miterclamp.com/perfect_miters/pages/Red_neck_philosophy.html

Regards,

jimc


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## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

*May be so,But.....*

I was told it may or may not be code (For todays standards on long island).even if its all through out the rest of the house,any new or upgraded outlet/wiring should be at a much higher height,long island inspectors are a little strange,sometimes it depends on there mood if things pass or not,historic homes may be differnet altogether,which this one really was.since i'm not an electrician i don't know the actual code ,after a few years of restoration we never once had an inspector in the house,electrical or building,just an ocasional drive by and wave from the local historical society,i guess after you pay 20-30,000 a year in taxes they don't care what you do.


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## Tom R (Oct 11, 2006)

clampman said:


> You may get a kick out of it Tom. http://


 
That is one great article, Jim!! So, so true . . . :thumbsup:


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## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

Nice article Jim i enjoyed it


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## trim man (Nov 3, 2006)

Nice looking work. That looks like some pretty steep stairs. Did you get any grief from building inspectors.


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## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

Thanks ,building inspector? who's that? :blink: there not that bad my size 14eee fits on them,well part of them anyway.


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

Wood,

Ha! You're lucky. I did a stair job in Maine after many years of working away for a homeowner/GC. I looked at the small bundle of spindles he had for the railing and counted them up - Waaaayy short.

He says "There's plenty there. I don't like too many cause it looks too
busy".

"Is the inspector going to go for it?"

"I let her have full control of the kitchen and those expensive cabinets she picked out. The rest of the house is up to me!"

It's nice working rural after CT.

Regards,
Jim


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## billybokay (Oct 30, 2006)

Now for a business question... How did you figure the price for that installation. I have done that on several occasions (oak stain grade) and wondered how much someone other than stupid ole me would charge. I am on Long island as well.


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## desert door and trim (Nov 2, 2006)

Depends on how much you want to make.

I usually figuire out how much time I think it will take me or my crew, and put an hourly dollar amount into the equation ie. $45/hour if there is traveling involved I add $100 dollars per day that I am going to be there, mark up the material if I am ordering it by 30%, and then throw in an extra $400 for unexpecteds. 

But at the same time know your audience. If you really want to do charity work for a friend, or if a homeowner thinks he or she is going to get a killer deal from you. I always like to shock them with costs, and then reject the work if they counter bid. They call me up in two weeks wanting me to finish there crappy job, and tell them I'm too busy. 

I am a jerk, but I have a name too keep, and people have to understand that.


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## nywoodwizard (Oct 31, 2006)

The installtion barely took a day,everything was made in the shop.The homeowner,(who actually became a friend,but a paying one) picked up all the materials and dropped them off at my shop,and picked up the panels when they were completed.I calculated $ 60.00 per hour,with all materials paid by customer,including wood,sandpaper,glue,nails,biscuits,blade wear,and any needed router bits and bit wear.I don't generally mark up materials,i plan on making my money on labor only.It averages out to about $500 per day and took aprox 3 days from start to finish.Some may charge more,some less.Im not a greedy man,thats why i always have work and make a fair wage for the day.Once and a while i get customers who after i give a very good price for a job,ask if i can do it for less,those are the ones who piss me off,one customer just had a brand new home built in a very nice area,$ 800,000 easy,tells me his taxes are a little over $ 20,000 a year,and he has the balls to ask me to give him a better price,then the excellent one i already given him. If i had his money i'd burn mine.I usually just hang up on them,sorry i don't work just for lunch money.


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## 747 (Dec 3, 2006)

SWEET!!!!!!!:thumbsup: Also excellent color choice by homeowner for dining room walls.


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## Cole (Oct 3, 2006)

Beautiful Work!!!


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