# Trimming a door



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I've had a bit of rot on the bottom of the brick mold around the back storm door. I've tried to patch it , but it continues. Today is the day.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The only thing I can suggest is to remake the trim with ground contact rated pressure treated. Just be sure it's not Yellawood.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I'm using PVC.. A lot of people wait till their door is rotted a little to completely. I was going to show how to take a piece off, replace and repaint to correct the problem without calling a contractor to replace the who door and jamb...


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

In my case I was lucky. Carpenter used scews to fasten the brick mold. Dont be surprised if framing nails were used. Not uncommon on exterior doors when your after the green. Before you pry your trim loose, make sure to run s knife down all caulk joints so you dontt damage another painted surfaces. Pry from the outside of the door versus the inside where you have trim..


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You want to remove any light fixtures, shims, etx that might restrict your work.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Now that you've pulled your trim you'll see nails at the top so be careful. Youll notice the rot on the trim and the door jamb.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You want to take the time to clean any unwanted caulk and rot.


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

I would suggest trying to get some forti-flash or flashing behind that and between the deck and the trim piece. If you can't, perhaps silicone the crap out of it. The PVC brick mold is the way to go.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Is that siding Smart Panel? How's the bottom of it holding up? I hope its not masonite.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

It holds up fine. Every product is about maintenance. Ignore and pay the piper. ...

My neighbor has siding but does no maintenance on his shed. No maintanance and has swelled on the bottom.

You can't preach enough maintenance. Just a visual look every spring and fall can save you a lot over time.. Just occasional looks under sinks faucets looking for leaks can save you hundreds if not thousands...


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

B Coll said:


> I would suggest trying to get some forti-flash or flashing behind that and between the deck and the trim piece. If you can't, perhaps silicone the crap out of it. The PVC brick mold is the way to go.


I've got one small repair at the bottom but put the trim on and primed the board. I'm in need of more caulk, but need it primed first..


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Doors can get out of plumb over the years, so better to make a sample to test it along with your saw.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I'll measure full length and trim off the bottom as needed. From the very top corner to the deck is 83 1/2.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Now with piece cut to 45 degrees and to full length of 83 1/2. Make sure you cut the angle in the correct direction.. you can now put the piece in place holding and test the fit.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

As in picture #14, you'll notice the trim isnt quite the same width as the the 23 year old brick mold. You could split the difference, but in my case the inside is the most important to match existing trim and the door fits correctly with the new piece installed. Also cut the trim piece to match the length of the right side


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

At this point I decided not to haul a compressor and lines around for 8 finish nails. I decided to use 2 1/2 galvanized finish nails, predrillef and using a nail set to set the nails below the surface for putty and paint On the other side of the brick mold I predrilled for exterior 3" screws.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

At this point I've went as far as I can. Before I caulk. I need to prime everything. More tomorrow...


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

Ironic that I did this same thing yesterday. I had 2ft of pvc trim left over from a window rebuild, I cut it in half and replaced the bottom foot on each side. Also replaced 6" of the jamb on both sides. 
I should say that my wife did 90% of the work, I'm the brains of the operation 😂


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

The moment you realize you don't have enough caulk to finish the job.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

What I use.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I'm most. Asesof ots new or replaced but the joint is good you only need a bead. of caulk 1/16-1/8 . Your only trying to bond prime to prime surfaces, prime to paint or paint to paint surfaces to repaint.Larger opening will require more. No point in taking off more than your applying . A steady bead goes a long way.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Had one small rot repair at the bottom. A little filler, primer a nail and we are ready to finish caulking.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

With a new tube of caulk, a little finger sculpting an we are complete. In a couple hours I'll touch up the re m.j ainder with promet and it should be ready to paint this afternoon.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

After the caulk and primer have dried enough according to the manufacturer's instructions? You can now apply the final trim paint. In this case I use "super white" on the trim of my house.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

So with the paint drying overnight I resumed installation of the storm door. If you've notice the trim filler pieces and new trim is just a hair smaller in this area, but not enough to replace all the brick mold.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

After putting everything back in reverse order its complete. There has been some sagging over the last 23 years and making the doir striker plates not align correctly. This will require me to pull the handle side and , cut nails and renail the door jamb. That's another day... Hope this helps.


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## haathi (8 mo ago)

Rebelwork said:


> After putting everything back in reverse order its complete. There has been some sagging over the last 23 years and making the doir striker plates not align correctly. This will require me to pull the handle side and , cut nails and renail the door jamb. That's another day... Hope this helps.


Thanks, it will. I need to do the same to the man door on my garage, and install the used storm door I just purchased.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Well I finally have time to get on the window box trim. I want this trim work to breath, but originallyI only blocked water from the top. I think I will put a fine line of caulk down the two sides to block and water from pentetrating behind the boxes causing a problem with the stucco.

When i




























made a comment on another topic about using red oak for exterior backs, this is it was knotty alder glued together on the corbels...


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

A little cloudy so I was able to do a little caulking before paint.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I think by next year the whole house may get a paint job. After 15 years this "watered down" paint is showing some age...


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

This kind of painting is not fun😞


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

As you can see I need a change to the flower box design.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

PVC Boards or some type of composite like used on decks?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Already bought a sheet of plywood a couple months ago. I'm thinking a 1×2 around the top will eliminate the exposed edge. I'm wanting to cut designs in 1/8 ply and apply to the front. Just haven't found apply design yet..


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Got all the brackets and trim painted. Guess ill.work around the garage doors. I doubt I'd get another year out of this paint. Cans getting rusty along the inside and at $70 a gallon ill paint till its gone.


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