# Can anybody help me adjust a Craftsman Jointer?



## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

This old work horse has served me well up to just a month ago. The Model is 113.206931 and it's about 35 Y.O. The out feed is not adjustable. 
I attempted an adjustment of the in feed a year or so ago and it seemed to be working fine. Then, I installed newly sharpened blades (had done this several times before, with no problems) I use the magnetized bars that slide on rods to set the blades. Also, done many times before. But, now I get a really bad snipe on the last 2-3" of a semi flat board. I assumed it was due to a bow, but I get a similar snipe on a truly flat piece. 
With a 4' straight edge across both tables and perfectly flat on the outfeed, I can slip a piece of typing paper under the straight edge at approx. 2" from the end of the table. It get's progressively wider (two thicknesses of paper) at the cutter end of the table. Just now, in typing this, I realize that that is about the depth of the snipe. Duh!
I'm an old man with a bad back. So, laying under the unit, while still possible, ain't fun. As I said, I ATTEMPTED an adjustment before but, I'm not sure I did it correctly. I guess I'm asking if anyone has an easy way to accomplish the adjustments and, are there specific bolts to loosen and how to move the gibs easily. Is there a way to gauge how far you've raised the table without a helper and/or without having to climb out from under and back down again? But, I'd rather climb under than remove it from the base and lug it to the bench.
Any hints or suggestion would be greatly appreciated!


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

*Owners Manual*

Looks like this is the correct owners manual in case you don't have it.
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0805383.pdf

There is info on the infeed table starting on page 14. Typically each corner has an adjustment bolt and for this jointer it looks like they are on the underside.

You might also look into a feeler gauge set for more accuracy. I have these from Amazon which, at $4.24 are cheap and work just fine.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

That is exactly the information I needed!:thumbsup:
My manual is long gone.
Thank you very, very much.


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## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

Gene,
I've recently had the same problem with a much newer Craftsman. Worked great for several years. Now it started sniping and I can't seem to set the blades correctly, even with a magnetic guide (never had problems before). 
I keep thinking the outer corner of the infeed table seems low now, but I haven't changed depths at all... or even moved the jointer? 

But you've inspired me. I'm out to try and find the culprit. I can't operate without a jointer.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

clarionflyer said:


> Gene,
> I've recently had the same problem with a much newer Craftsman. Worked great for several years. Now it started sniping and I can't seem to set the blades correctly, even with a magnetic guide (never had problems before).
> I keep thinking the outer corner of the infeed table seems low now, but I haven't changed depths at all... or even moved the jointer?
> 
> But you've inspired me. I'm out to try and find the culprit. I can't operate without a jointer.


After setting my blades 3 times, I'm almost certain blade height is not the problem. Next week, I'm going to attempt to readjust the in feed. Does your newer model still have a solid (non adjustable) out feed? Hope so. one less variable.
That BANG when the snipe occurs is quite annoying, isn't it?:furious:
Good luck with yours.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You can download the manual for your machine here.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/own...-Planer-L0805383?brand_name_search=113.206931

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You got a 4' aluminum level?*

I use this because it doesn't fall over as you move it across the outfeed table to check the plane of the infeed (IF). Crank up the infeed so it just bumps the level resting in the center of the outfeed (OF). Then slide it across and look for daylight under the level in the IF. If you see any daylight either on the edges or at the rear....or if it bumps the rear BEFORE it touches the front of the IF it's out of co-planar ...the tables are not in a parallel plane.

Then it's time to either raise or lower the front of the IF using the adjustment screws described in the manual. Lossen the locknut and move the screws 1/4 turn only. Check to see what happens. and which way to turn the screws based on the effect. 

If the table is not off edge to edge that's all you will have to do...tighten the lock nuts and check it again. TIP: a real long 18" 3/8" socket extension rather than a wrench will assist in getting to the nuts and screw heads/machine bolts. I have the same 35 yr old jointer, and it works like a charm even after sharpening the knives and resetting the heights many times.  bill


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> I use this because it doesn't fall over as you move it across the outfeed table to check the plane of the infeed (IF). Crank up the infeed so it just bumps the level resting in the center of the outfeed (OF). Then slide it across and look for daylight under the level in the IF. If you see any daylight either on the edges or at the rear....or if it bumps the rear BEFORE it touches the front of the IF it's out of co-planar ...the tables are not in a parallel plane.
> 
> Then it's time to either raise or lower the front of the IF using the adjustment screws described in the manual. Lossen the locknut and move the screws 1/4 turn only. Check to see what happens. and which way to turn the screws based on the effect.
> 
> If the table is not off edge to edge that's all you will have to do...tighten the lock nuts and check it again. TIP: a real long 18" 3/8" socket extension rather than a wrench will assist in getting to the nuts and screw heads/machine bolts. I have the same 35 yr old jointer, and it works like a charm even after sharpening the knives and resetting the heights many times.  bill


Hey Bill,
Wanna summer vacation in beautiful Snowflake, AZ????:laughing:
I could use the help!:thumbsup:


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> I use this because it doesn't fall over as you move it across the outfeed table to check the plane of the infeed (IF). Crank up the infeed so it just bumps the level resting in the center of the outfeed (OF). Then slide it across and look for daylight under the level in the IF. If you see any daylight either on the edges or at the rear....or if it bumps the rear BEFORE it touches the front of the IF it's out of co-planar ...the tables are not in a parallel plane.
> 
> Then it's time to either raise or lower the front of the IF using the adjustment screws described in the manual. Lossen the locknut and move the screws 1/4 turn only. Check to see what happens. and which way to turn the screws based on the effect.
> 
> If the table is not off edge to edge that's all you will have to do...tighten the lock nuts and check it again. TIP: a real long 18" 3/8" socket extension rather than a wrench will assist in getting to the nuts and screw heads/machine bolts. I have the same 35 yr old jointer, and it works like a charm even after sharpening the knives and resetting the heights many times.  bill


Beat me to it, that's what I was thinking.


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