# Table Saw/Router workstation project



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

Table Saw/Router workstation

I’m currently working on building a Table Saw/Router workstation based on ShopNotes #89. I’m about 1/3 completed at this point. Will post pictures and some of my notes later.

I’d like to be able to utilize the table saws fence at part of the fence for my router table. Rather then putting additional T-tracks or putting holes in my tabletop. I was thinking about building the router fence that slips over my Biesemeyer fence. 

My question is in dust collection from the fence. I like the idea of the vacuum/dust collection from the side that would be a little bit less hose to manage vs. having it come from the top. Would I lose a dramatically amount of dust collection having it pull down the side vs. the top?

(I found a few pics of what I was thinking about making.)


----------



## A-1 Jim (Dec 27, 2010)

I made one pretty close to 2nd photo of a fence and the dust collection works pretty well ,maybe 85% of the saw dust is collected. You can collect more if you able to collect from below the table also.


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

A-1 Jim said:


> I made one pretty close to 2nd photo of a fence and the dust collection works pretty well ,maybe 85% of the saw dust is collected. You can collect more if you able to collect from below the table also.


 
Yep, Enclosing the router from underneath, adding another hose, will substantially increase your dust collection.

Pain in the butt, if you dont have a router lift. :smile:


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*2 dust hoses*

Oh yea, I was going to put in a "T" and some blast gates (section off between the tablesaw and the router table). One hose from the dust collector to the "T" from that "T" one hose to the tablesaw and the other to the router table. From the router tab split into 2 hoses one for the fence and one for down under.


----------



## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

No gravity is on your side. My friend and fellow woodworker has almost exactly what you have described and it works great. I have used his setup which consists of a Delta TS and a biesmeyer fence. He built a beautiful off feed table and right side table with Cabinets below. The router is mounted top and is accessible from the Cabinets. He slides the biesmeyer fence over and it doubles as his fence for the router. He has a wood fence that drops over the biesmeyer to house the vacuum system that is piped from underneath. This auxiliary fence also allows for attaching different hold Downs and things depending on what your doing on the router. I've said for years I wanted to do it in my shop just never have time. He is retired by the way LOL


----------



## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Id like to build that too. What's the date of that issue of SN. I subscribe but don't remember seeing that project. Just what the doc ordered for my small shop


----------



## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

The router lift mentioned above is definitely worth it. I have one on all my tables in the shop and set up time is a breeze


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*ShopNotes Issue #089 Sep-Oct 2006*



PSDkevin said:


> Id like to build that too. What's the date of that issue of SN. I subscribe but don't remember seeing that project. Just what the doc ordered for my small shop


 
ShopNotes Issue #089 Sep-Oct 2006


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*Router Lift*



MastersHand said:


> The router lift mentioned above is definitely worth it. I have one on all my tables in the shop and set up time is a breeze


 
On the subject of router lifts, I was going to cut the hole and mount an aftermarket router plate in it. I'd like to think someday that I'll get a router lift. Can I just swap out the plate for a lift system in the future? If so what size of plate should I aim for?


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

MariahHolt said:


> On the subject of router lifts, I was going to cut the hole and mount an aftermarket router plate in it. I'd like to think someday that I'll get a router lift. Can I just swap out the plate for a lift system in the future? If so what size of plate should I aim for?


 
They vary,

But cutting the hole and rabbiting the recess is no big deal, you'r gonna do it to your new top, and if in the future your lift happens to require a smaller hole, it's time for a new top anyhow. :smile:


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

MariahHolt said:


> On the subject of router lifts, I was going to cut the hole and mount an aftermarket router plate in it. I'd like to think someday that I'll get a router lift. Can I just swap out the plate for a lift system in the future? If so what size of plate should I aim for?


There are 3 sizes of router plates that I know of: 8 1/4 x 11 3/4 . 9 x 12 and 9 1/4 x 11 3/4, so make sure that the hole you make will accept one of these sizes. Jessem lift make 2 sizes of plates, others like Bench Dog make the smaller size, Woodpeckers is another lift. Check out the lifts first, then make youropening that size. I use the Bench Dog cast iron tables and the Jessem Mast R lifts. I really like that combination.  bill
This may help: http://ptreeusa.com/routerPlates.htm


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I would recommend a separate fence for the router table.
I added a router table extension to my saw. At first I used the Bies. sytle (Exacta) fence for routing, building add ons to it. 
I got to realize, that, quite often, I needed to go back and rip a piece, and had to unset the fence for routing.
2 short t tracks and a dedicated fence were much better.
I bought a Rockler, aluminum/mdf fence, that had 2 faces, so you can adjust the opening, and shim the outfeed side for jointing, etc. It was around $30, but don't see it in the catalog, which just came.
I also bought a pack of their fence shims, for $5.
I usually make stuff like that, and use whatever for shims, but this was a simple, inexpensive solution, that has worked great.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Agreed*



Pirate said:


> I would recommend a separate fence for the router table.
> I added a router table extension to my saw. At first I used the Bies. sytle (Exacta) fence for routing, building add ons to it.
> *I got to realize, that, quite often, I needed to go back and rip a piece, and had to unset the fence for routing.*
> 2 short t tracks and a dedicated fence were much better.....
> .


If possible, have a separate fence for your router table, so you don't have to make a new set up if you need to use the Table saw! This is the main objection or having both the router and table saw mated together. A separate fence solves this issue.  bill


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*Progress on Table Saw/Router Workstation*

Made a lot of progress on my table-saw/router workstation over the last week or so. Top is bolted on, got all the trim done, all the drawers are done and drawer fronts on. I've got some drawer pulls on their way in. Found a good deal on ebay for some stainless steel ones. Still looking for just the right router plate to start on that side of it.


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

That is a sweet setup! 

Great job! :thumbsup:

Are you considering an outfeed table to go with it?
If you cut anything over 3', it is pretty much a necessity. :smile:


----------



## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

*Wow! That looks great!*

Very nice job on that:thumbsup::thumbsup:..... I am hoping to make some thing like that in the near future as well.:yes:

keep up the good work.

Fabian


----------



## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Wow, that's nice. I wish I had enough shop time to justify building one of my own. Can't quite tell from the pics.... did you already route extensions for the TS miter slots?


----------



## Kirkus (Dec 19, 2010)

That's looking really nice, Mariah. I just finished building one using the same plans as a starting point. I especially like your larger top. I only added extensions to my table and nothing extra on the back end.

Really, really nice job.


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*Follow Up*

I just wanted to follow up on my table saw workstation build. I've been using my setup now for about 6 moths. I've really enjoyed my table saw workstation! (True it's not the same as upgrading to a true cabinet saw.) The storage aspect of it is great. It has a huge cutting table top surface. I like the fact that the table top extends well beyond the overhang of the table saw motor thus protecting the motor from anything that falls off the cutting surface. The router table add-on is great. (I'm not too crazy with the router fence I made. Its rather big and heavy, made from MDF.) 

Lessons learned from the build:

If your building one, look carefully at the contractor saw you own vs. just following the plans. My cast iron top and base differs a slight bit than the one in the plans. I wasn't able to utilize 100% all the space available in my build. 

I wish I would have used a true hard hardwood vs the douglas fur I used for my trim around the top edge. 

Cutting out the area of the top for the table saw to fit around into was really tough! I have a slight bit of a gap around mine that I wish I could have avoided. It fills up with saw dust. (Having a buddy help moving around the MDF/melamine would come in handy.)


----------



## mn pete (Dec 10, 2010)

Wow! That thing is serious! Nicely done. Do you have any plans for an outfeed table, or maybe a workbench of the same height behind the saw?


----------



## Patrick. (Jul 11, 2011)

Very nice!


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*Follow Up*

Someone was asking about the fence I made for it. Here are a few pics.


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*Questions about sizes*

I've had some inquires about setup and sizes. The top 39" x 84" and 36" tall. The base is 24" x 72". The top extends past the back of the saw 11". If I were going to do it again, I would suggest the same if not maybe a few more additional inches. I can get away without having any out-feed support in most cases unless I'm doing longer than 4' boards. Here are a few extra pics. I also came up with a way to store my router bits. In one of my cubbies I did some 12"x12" MDF to hold them, they just slide out. Under the saw itself I put in a small sheet of hardboard that's angled towards the dust collection port in back. This left an odd triangle sized area in front. I build a simple pullout triangular box. I've got my finger joint jig stashed in there. Feel free to send me messages/questions/ect.


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*pics*

pics


----------



## Duck69 (Jan 27, 2011)

Excellent job man. I will hopefully be starting mine soon.


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...480892126&q=shopnotes+89+table+saw+workcenter


----------



## Hoppywood (Dec 7, 2012)

MariahHolt said:


> Made a lot of progress on my table-saw/router workstation over the last week or so. Top is bolted on, got all the trim done, all the drawers are done and drawer fronts on. I've got some drawer pulls on their way in. Found a good deal on ebay for some stainless steel ones. Still looking for just the right router plate to start on that side of it.


I was looking for pictures on how you covered up around the belt drive. 

Looks GREAT though.. MP


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

I didn’t cover up the drive belt, that was the original plastic cover that came with the saw. Unfortunately the nuts that held it on had came loose one day and the belt chewed it up before I could shut down the saw. The top that I made extends over the backside an additional 11” inches. If I was going to do it again I would extend it longer maybe go for 15-18”. The reason being, you can cut a 4’ board without any it wanting to start tipping off the back side.


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

Just a note for all those folks reading this post thinking about doing something similar with their saw. My top was made from 1 sheet of MDF sandwiched with a sheet of melamine. It makes it thick, flat and very heavy to work with. The two issues I’ve had with that setup are: melamine does get dirty and stains over time. The second thing is, if your MDF gets wet it swell up and start falling apart. I’d recommend rather than using MDF for the bottom sheet, to use high quality ¾” plywood for the base, with the melamine sandwiched on top.


----------



## MrSlurpee (Nov 15, 2012)

MariahHolt said:


> Just a note for all those folks reading this post thinking about doing something similar with their saw. My top was made from 1 sheet of MDF sandwiched with a sheet of melamine. It makes it thick, flat and very heavy to work with. The two issues I’ve had with that setup are: melamine does get dirty and stains over time. The second thing is, if your MDF gets wet it swell up and start falling apart. I’d recommend rather than using MDF for the bottom sheet, to use high quality ¾” plywood for the base, with the melamine sandwiched on top.


When I made my router table, I used melamine as well. I used 3/4" Birch ply underneath, mainly because after cutting out a dado for the miter rail, I felt the particleboard under the miter rail would be too weak and eventually break. So far I haven't had any issues with the melamine on top of ply combo.


----------



## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

MariahHolt said:


> Made a lot of progress on my table-saw/router workstation over the last week or so. Top is bolted on, got all the trim done, all the drawers are done and drawer fronts on. I've got some drawer pulls on their way in. Found a good deal on ebay for some stainless steel ones. Still looking for just the right router plate to start on that side of it.


*EDIT:*
Was asking about the measurements of the stand - but then I saw you answered this previously. 
(no "delete post" option)


THANKS !!

:thumbsup:


----------



## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

Nice job Mariah! Now I want one! :icon_smile:

Have you had any problems with sawdust building up near the hose connection on the router fence? I sometimes have that problem with mine if I'm routing "stringy" wood.


----------



## Yed (May 25, 2014)

*Workstation plans*

Mariah!
Thanks so much for posting this. I am looking to build something similar and through your post and the replies I have gathered a great deal of info. I was able to find the referenced Shop Notes issue and plans and will begin to brainstorm and layout my station.

Hope yours is running well. It is awesome! As you posted a few years back would be interested in any thoughts now if you were to build it again. 

Best,


----------



## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

*If I was to do it again*

If I were to do it over again based on what I know now. Melamine is neat stuff, I had used partial board under it. It’s a bad combo, don’t ever get it wet! Also that white surface loses its luster after awhile and always appears dirty. I would have made the top a bit deeper to accommodate longer boards. The storage is great, I still enjoy the router bit storage. I should have used some hardwood for the edging.


----------



## Yed (May 25, 2014)

*Thanks for the reply*

I appreciate it!


----------

