# Epoxy Resin Issues (Help would be appreciated)



## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

First off, hello everyone; new member here.

So I recently took my coffee table, sanded a square chunk in the middle, primed it with black primer and had a friend hand paint some designs on it with acrylic paint. I then tried to pour epoxy resin over it and the results haven't been stellar. 

There are quite a few little pits that just seem like they wouldn't fill in. Pits as in... imagine a bubble popped and the space just never filled in. The resin also seemed like it just wouldn't evenly flow over the edges and wouldn't really level itself.

So my questions...

First off, any ideas as to what is causing these pits?

Secondly, my plan is to let it cure and sand it down a bit to hopefully take down some of the uneven parts and bumps and then re-pour. Is this a good idea, and if so, what grit(s) sandpapers should I use for it?

Lastly, if I re-pour over the scuffed, sanded surface will it clear it back up or does it need to be buffed before pouring or something?


Thank for the help!
Nick


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

As a followup, does resin shrink after it settles? I poured the second half of the table (it's split in two sections) about a half hour ago and after just checking it, there are now a bunch of bare spots...


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## fareastern (Sep 19, 2014)

Your first post might relate to the outgassing of volatile constituents from below.It can be caused by temperature increases.Some googling may yield useful information.

The problem referred to in the second post might be more easily diagnosed if we knew more about the temperature on each occasion.Warmer temperatures tend to reduce the viscosity of the epoxy,which will allow it to be absorbed more deeply.


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Will clear up after sanding 220. use a notched trowel to spread, bare spots probably oil or wax on surface, instruction give advice for bubbles.


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

Sorry. it was done in my basement so the temperature was constant, (68-70F).

It was just strange that after pouring it look somewhat decent, relatively, but then after checking it about 30mins later there are bald spots all over. I used way more than what was required on the box, so it would be hard for me to believe that there wasn't enough.

And I've taken care of the bubbles with a torch; those aren't a problem. I just thought it may be a good idea to try and sand it down a bit to smooth it out before doing another coat. The sanding will obviously scuff it all up, but will those scuff marks go away when more resin is poured on it?

Thanks again,
Nick


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## CNYWOODS (Apr 22, 2012)

Yes sand marks will go away with second coat. I typically do 3. You will never get it in your first as that's more of a sealer coat. 75-80 degrees is much better for flow and cure. Think you have some contamination in your bald spots. Ps with some practice you won't need a torch... Haven't had a bubble in years. It's the random spider or winged bugs that get me.







Here's a dinning table that will cure for 2 weeks at 80' then sanded with 600 then topcoated.


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

Thank you very much.

Anything I could do about this possible contamination?

And any other opinions on sandpaper grit?


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## CNYWOODS (Apr 22, 2012)

You could try to sand contaminated areas with say 120 grit, then hit with some rattle can shellac before your next resin coat .if the shellac sticks your in good shape, just make sure it's wax free shellac.Then 180-220 on the rest before your final coat.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

YBRmuggsLP21 said:


> First off, hello everyone; new member here.
> 
> So I recently took my coffee table, sanded a square chunk in the middle, primed it with black primer and had a friend hand paint some designs on it with acrylic paint. I then tried to pour epoxy resin over it and the results haven't been stellar.
> 
> ...


when pouring expoxy did you break the bubbles?? sound's like you didn't do that , that is why you are getting the little dimples , that is where a air bubbles was, you can make a pour right over the one that is their now, let this set a day or so , make a mix and pour right over the surface , now use a tourch with flame , pass this over the new pour about 5" above the new pour and you will see the bubbles break, now wait about 15 min and do this again , this will make the pour look good, i have pour hundres of cypres clock's and other item with expoxy and this is how i have done this, also their is a bubble breaker in a spray bottle that you can get, i never used this, because i like my way , good luck oh don't sand you don't need to


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

YBRmuggsLP21 said:


> Sorry. it was done in my basement so the temperature was constant, (68-70F).
> 
> It was just strange that after pouring it look somewhat decent, relatively, but then after checking it about 30mins later there are bald spots all over. I used way more than what was required on the box, so it would be hard for me to believe that there wasn't enough.
> 
> ...


i made a post before i read this one with tourch, yes the sanding marks will disapear after the next pour, the pour should have more than enough so that it can even out and run over the sides, be sure and have something under to catch the run off , you can't wipe this stuff up, also the white hand cleaner will take this stuff off of your hand's and will clean the brush, unless you are using a thro away , the brush is to just move the expoxy around to make sure and cover all the top,


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

In addition to what del schisler said you can create bubbles in epoxy resin by over aggresively stiring it.


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

Great, thanks everyone!



del schisler said:


> the pour should have more than enough so that it can even out and run over the sides


I watched a lot of YouTube videos prior to my attempt and they all seem like they had no problem having it evenly flow over the edges. When I did mine it wouldn't evenly flow over so I had to use a foam brush to get even coverage over the edges, but then, it would still seem to have build up spots where it would continue to drip only in certain areas... Does this perhaps have something to do with the finish on the table?


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Make sure the part you are sanding and then epoxying is DUST FREE. And the area you are epoxying is DUST FREE as well. Do not epoxy next to where you cut wood. As the wood soaks up the epoxy, bubbles will form, bubbles are already in the epoxy when you stir it. You need a clean surface and then heat with torch after pouring to eliminate any bubbles


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

If you are having a problem with flow you will need to thin the epoxy with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol.


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

You can do that? They seem to put a lot of emphasis on making sure you have exact proper amounts when mixing the components, so that seems like it would throw a total curve ball in it.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Yea adding the thinner will do exactly that make it thinner and change the properties. Not a lot of thinner is necessary- the epoxy I use does not recommend any more than 10%. If it's not a structural epoxy joint then I would go with more thinner. You gotta play around with it but you will not have a smooth clear surface after one layer of epoxy. It will probably take 3-4 making sure you are sanding and removing dust in between each layer/coating


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Epoxy is going to drip so sanding (maybe even wet sandning) on particular edges might be necessary.

If you use a foam brush you don't need to brush hard, just the tip and let the epoxy settle. Make sure your piece is level


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

Wow, yeah everything on YouTube just made it seem like one layer and you're good to go.

For coverage purposes would you recommend slightly less resin and some thinner or using more resin and no thinner? Any flattening differences between the two?


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Since you are epoxying over a painted surface the epoxy isn't going to soak into the wood as mush as it would over bare wood. The painted layer might even cause some unevenness or bubbles to form. I would recommend using the ratio the manufacturer recommends for the resin but just add a little thinner. Don't mess with the resin or hardener ratios

Thinner will not make the resin "flatter". How many coats do you already have? Because if you have to sand in between coats, you'll need to make sure you have enough thickness to not sand through to the paint

The paint might even cause the resin to pool up and not have complete coverage. Similar to rain on a car after the car gets waxed. So what I would recommend is putting the first coat on with thinner. Sand very lightly by hand with like 220 making sure you don't go through the paint, then a second coat with no thinner. That coat should be thick and spread on with a scraper (if the project is big) then follow up with a brush. I would sand a little more aggressively getting the pits out. Lastly a third thick coat. Again make sure there is no dust and use a blue torch to your advantage

Do you have a picture of your piece?


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Here is a box I spray painted. After that, I assembled the box and coated with one coat of resin (second picture). You can see how the resin didn't spread fully. After lightly sanding the first layer I added a thick coat for the second layer (third picture). All the was needed was two coats. The first one not to thick, the second coat was a lot thicker. All it's going to take is more epoxy for you

The top outside edges are done a little differently. I put 3 coats on them, I recoat them each time I epoxy because I also epoxied the outside of the box when it was flipped over. Sometimes the epoxy will drip from the sides and I will have to sand the hardened droplets.


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

http://imgur.com/nwHbxNI 

That is the table before it's first coat that's on. It isn't all painted, which would make sense as to why a lot of the problems are on the unpainted parts...



Separate question all together:

The table splits in the middle so that it can be pulled apart and you can store stuff underneath. For the first coat I used painters tape in the crack and essentially poured the table on two halves, (as the tape worked like a divider). Any tips as to how to keep the two sides the same height, (at least at the split so they don't feel uneven if you run your hand over it)?


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Like I said if you have a first coat on, lightly sand it and then add another coat with a brush. Looks like you have some open grain, especially with the routered edge, so you will need a few more coats. You could wipe any dripping on the underside when the epoxy starts to harden a little bit.

I would put two coats on with the tap still there, or maybe wax paper instead of tape. Then sand the two halves flush. The third coat could be made without the tape when it has hardened you could try to cut it with a knife?


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

How smooth of a cut can be done on such a small gap? I feel confident the gap is tight enough that even on the first coat it wouldn't have leaked, but I didn't know of a good way to make a nice clean cut.


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

Anymore info on the cutting? After taking the tape off from the first layer there is definitely a huge bump the length of the crack in the table where the resin is much higher. I think doing the resin and trying to cut it may be the only option.


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

Nothing? This is the point I'm at and I feel like I'm boned.


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## fareastern (Sep 19, 2014)

Having now read this thread,since I got home yesterday from a few days away,it seems you are trying to use epoxy solely as a coating.It may sort of work in this context......but there are other things epoxy is best suited to.It is a phenomenally strong adhesive and you are using it as a surface finish.Would you use paint to join things?Epoxy is also known to be vulnerable to UV and discolours or goes slightly opaque.The fellows who build highly finished wood strip canoes always cover their boats with a clear varnish with UV inhibitors,maybe a wood canoe forum could give specific recommendations.The other item that would concern me is compatibility between different coatings.Its all too easy to add a layer that dissolves or smudges the coating beneath-be sure to try anything new on a small test piece first.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

YBRmuggsLP21 said:


> First off, hello everyone; new member here.
> 
> So I recently took my coffee table, sanded a square chunk in the middle, primed it with black primer and had a friend hand paint some designs on it with acrylic paint. I then tried to pour epoxy resin over it and the results haven't been stellar.
> 
> ...


this may been answard, i didn't read the post, first off you didn't break the bubbles that is why their are little looking pits, you need to use a butain tortch with the flam just maybe 6 or 8 inch above the pour, you will see the bubbles break, do this once and about 15 min later do it again their should be less bubbles or none? this will set up and be smooth, their are no need to sand, the little pits will fill in, if you have already sanded the sand marks will disapear, i have pourd hundred's of cypress clock's and other tables ect with expoxy, but the poubles have to be broke, now they make a bubble breaker that you spray on also, but i never used that ?? good luck


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## YBRmuggsLP21 (Oct 5, 2014)

I'm actually looking for information for the best methods for cutting this stuff. My table is supposed to split in half, but is bound together by resin. I have a very thin line I can follow, but seems like it would be an endless task with an x-acto knife.


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## fareastern (Sep 19, 2014)

The normal method to break an epoxy bond is to apply heat.Quite how you can do this with your table is difficult to say.95 deg C is normally the sort of temperature to do the job.


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## John Doyle (Mar 7, 2014)

YBRmuggsLP21 said:


> As a followup, does resin shrink after it settles? I poured the second half of the table (it's split in two sections) about a half hour ago and after just checking it, there are now a bunch of bare spots...


I spray a coat of sanding sealer on first then apply heat from a butane flame to the bubbles very lightly. You need to refine your technique a little. Practice makes perfect.


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