# What's the best type of Miter Saw?



## Sonoma Coma (Jan 12, 2015)

I am getting ready to replace some base board and crown molding in addition to building some nice shelving units and a couple of computer desks and dressers. I was wondering what would be the ideal Miter Saw for the job. I just came across a good deal at my local building supply house. It's a DeWalt DW715 12" Direct-Drive Compound Miter Saw that spins at 4,000 RPM with a single bevel, not a double bevel. The DW716 has a double bevel but it also has the motor mounted differently to accommodate that feature, it is belt-driven, not a direct-drive like the DW715 and spins 400 RPM slower at 3,600 RPM and the regular price is $349.00. I just purchased the DW715 on sale for $219.00 which is $80.00 off the regular $299.00 price. The sale price of the 12" DW715 is the same as the regular price as the 10" DW713 which is also a Direct-Drive single bevel Miter Saw which spins faster at 5,000 RPM. I originally went in there to purchase the 10" DW713 saw until I noticed the bigger 12" DW715 on sale. 
Now does a Direct-Drive Motor produce more wobble than a Belt-Drive? Will the faster 1000 RPM of a Direct-Drive produce a smoother cut? The difference in RPM's between the Direct-Drive 10" DW713 and the Belt-Driven 12" DW716 is 1,400 RPM. Which will produce a smoother cut, a 10" or 12" blade? Is there really a need for a Double Bevel? I've read that alot of people say that it is not necessary. And the Double Bevel Belt-Driven 12" DW716 would cost $130.00 more than the Single Bevel Direct Drive 12" DW715. And what about the belt-drive system, I know that more moving parts will be more stuff to wear out, more things to replace, more potential for things to go wrong. _What would you do...?_


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Wow, thats a lot of questions! 

Okay, firsts things first, what are your uses for it? First thing to think of is what sizes of materials do you most often cut? If youre always using 1/4 stock, the extra cut capacity of a 12 inch saw is wasted, whereas if you need to cut a 4x4 post and you have a 7 1/4 saw, youre boned. As far as belt vs direct drive, id go belt. Generally with miter saws a belt driven saw has the motor mounted closer to the hinge, so its (in my mind) easier to operate. As far as the single vs double bevel thing, its either or. Personally, id go with a single bevel, just because its easier to set one angle accurately than two.

I cant pitch a specific recommendation for a saw, i just havent used enough different ones to say. Personally, as a broad recommendation id look for a good 10 inch compond miter. Double bevel or belt vs direct driven wouldnt really factor in it for me. Id go with a 10 over 12 inch saw because 10 inch blades are usually easier to find, and have less risk of deflection. Unless you regularly crosscut materials wider than about 6 inches, id also recommend not looking for a slider. 

Final note, i wouldnt worry too much about the difference in blade speed overly much, i doubt it makes a huge difference


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## Al_Amantea (Dec 30, 2014)

As far the projects you mentioned, you will probably be happy with any of the mentioned saws.
I would not concern myself with the blade speed differences or the belt driven or direct drive dilemma. Any quality name brand (DeWalt in this case) miter saw is going to have more than enough power for what you want to do.
I do quite a bit of crown, and having the dual bevel is a big plus for that. Crown mold is cut upside down in a miter saw, with the fence being the wall, and the platform being the ceiling. A dual bevel saw is perfect for this.
Accuracy in setting your angles on a quality saw will not be an issue if the saw is setup properly. Most of the time you can expect a name brand tool to be properly set from the factory, but it is very simple to check it and adjust it on the saws you listed.

I would be more concerned with cut capacity, angle stretch (0-45 as opposed to 0-55), and additional capabilities of the saw.
I own a DW718 myself as i needed the extra capacity of a sliding saw.

Cut quality is more a function of the blade and proper techniques than whether it has a direct drive motor or not. A belt drive MAY develop more torque, but unless you are doing timber framing or building a log home, this will not be an issue with the saws you listed.
Just get the maximum capabilities on a 12" saw that you can afford. You wont be saying that it ever does too much, but you might be wishing you could do more in the future.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

WOW, too many long paragraphs for me to really read.

I did catch something about belt drive. Never seen a belt drive miter saw.

George


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I didn't read all of your post but here is a pretty good review of some mire saws:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/cupp/14/


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Belt drive miter saws are pretty common, they have the motor mounted up above the blade. If your doing moulding, a dual bevel is really nice. I started with a single bevel direct drive and have since changed to a dual bevel belt drive....

Dewalt, Makita, bosch and hitachi all make great miter saws.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

The 715 (what I have) would do everything you need to do.

Contrary to what a lot of people like to think, it is not necessary to have a dual bevel saw to do crown molding, unless your working with very wide pieces. The easiest way to cut crown is 'nested', which involves using the spring angle of the molding and cutting it upside down. Using this method there is no need for any bevel as all cuts are just mitered. I bought Dewalts crown stops ($22) shortly after I bought my 715 and they make this process that much easier. When working with very wide crown it is cut flat on the deck and thus a dual bevel is a benefit.


You can do anything with a single bevel that you can do with a dual bevel, it just may require flipping material around to get the cut. Is the dual bevel more convenient, sure, but its not a must have.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

any way you go, Id go with a 12". its good for cutting call or long pieces. 

blade speed does play into cut quality, but speed is RPM* Diameter. so a bigger blade can turn slower and still come out ahead.


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## Sonoma Coma (Jan 12, 2015)

I was looking for something that has good accuracy like a non-sliding 10" miter saw. I have seen some of the DeWalt and Rigid Miter Saws where the entire turn table would move away from the fence when locking it into place with the flip-handle. The Hitachi has a turn handle to lock the turn plate into place but it also has a two-piece fence that seems difficult to put into alignment and keep aligned with the blade. The DeWalt has a stationary fence mouted solid to the frame and the turn table moves to align the blade to the fence, not the fence to the blade. But that turn table moves when locked down. The Bosch I saw has a two-piece fence too. The Makita 10" did not get good reviews for accuracy. http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/07/23/miter-saw-tune-up/


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

If I gotta cut angles of depth I'll use dewalt 708 anything newer is junk. If its within reason I'll use a Dewalt 706 and anything newer is junk. For simple squares and miters I use my trusty cast iron makita.

Buy older in really good shape if possible.

Did I mention the newer versions suck....


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

ignorance and bias is a shame in suggestion threads such as these...


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Ya....Id go with ignorant.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Sonoma Coma said:


> I was looking for something that has good accuracy like a non-sliding 10" miter saw. I have seen some of the DeWalt and Rigid Miter Saws where the entire turn table would move away from the fence when locking it into place with the flip-handle. The Hitachi has a turn handle to lock the turn plate into place but it also has a two-piece fence that seems difficult to put into alignment and keep aligned with the blade. The DeWalt has a stationary fence mouted solid to the frame and the turn table moves to align the blade to the fence, not the fence to the blade. But that turn table moves when locked down. The Bosch I saw has a two-piece fence too. The Makita 10" did not get good reviews for accuracy. http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/07/23/miter-saw-tune-up/





FWIW you can cut the same width boards on a non sliding as the sliding, you just have to flip the material over. I wouldnt worry about 10" versus 12" for accuracy. I use my 715 (12") for work and at home and its as accurate as anything could possibly be. Mine doesnt move when the turret is locked down.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

well...

if we are flipping the material (not something I love doing) sliding can do it too... and still have twice the capacity.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Flipping only works if the two edges are perfectly parallel, which means you have to have ripped the material down before cross cutting. 

And if we're talking flipping, I can cross cut 30 inches with my radial arm saw.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

It also tends to show you exactly how well you've aligned your fence.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

*What is the best type of miter saw*

Getting back to the original question, the best type is the one most suitable for the job at hand.
If you are cross cutting 2 X 4's all day long you don't need a 12" slider, particularly if it is at the top of three flights of stairs and you don't have a young strong helper to lug it up there. DAMHIKT
If there was one best tool that worked in all situations there would not be much choice out there.
That being said these discussions are very informative for anyone thinking of purchasing their first tool.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

bauerbach said:


> ignorance and bias is a shame in suggestion threads such as these...


From what I've read in the last month on here is nothing more than, "I bought this one, it's great I love it". Can't believe all the recommendations that get handed out lately. Some here haven't been woodworking long enough for a cheap tool to break.

Al


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Some are making that assumption without knowing the facts...

But let's be honest, you can't give an honest review unless you've tried it, it would be like saying dominos pizza is terrible, having only eaten Pizza Hut for the last 15 years...


By the way Sonoma coma, did you decide to switch your saw for another or are you going to keep the one you bought?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

"Some are making that assumption without knowing the facts.."

Who's making what assumption?


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> From what I've read in the last month on here is nothing more than, "I bought this one, it's great I love it". Can't believe all the recommendations that get handed out lately. Some here haven't been woodworking long enough for a cheap tool to break.
> 
> Al


but of course.

I mean... does anyone here own multiple miter saws? might be a few shops...

Everyone does their own research and buys the product they determined to be the best.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

This is not the place to get an unbiased answer. 

To the OP. You should do as has been posted. Decide what your use is and read up on it from a source that tests them. Most can be bought by the size needed and the color you like looking at. Most are very much the same. Most are made for the trade that uses them the most, trim carpentry. The bigger they are the more they cut. Bigger units have biggest blades and bigger motors. There is more quality in the larger units. Pick it by the shape of the handle. But above all. Don't judge them by looking at them in the box store. They almost are never assembled correctly, parts are missing, bolts and screws are loose and people have messed with them trying to make them move without disengaging the stops. 

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

bauerbach said:


> but of course.
> 
> I mean... does anyone here own multiple miter saws? might be a few shops...
> 
> Everyone does their own research and buys the product they determined to be the best.


Exactly but you left out price shop. 

Al


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> But above all. Don't judge them by looking at them in the box store. They almost are never assembled correctly, parts are missing, bolts and screws are loose and people have messed with them trying to make them move without disengaging the stops.
> 
> Al


Well look at that....we both agree on something.....roll out the cake!!!

It's true that you should never judge a tool based on the floor model at any store....even good tool/woodworking stores don't always assemble things the way you would in your own shop.


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## Eddiec1025 (Feb 14, 2021)

GeorgeC said:


> WOW, too many long paragraphs for me to really read.
> 
> I did catch something about belt drive. Never seen a belt drive miter saw.
> 
> George





GeorgeC said:


> WOW, too many long paragraphs for me to really read.
> 
> I did catch something about belt drive. Never seen a belt drive miter saw.
> 
> George





Sonoma Coma said:


> I am getting ready to replace some base board and crown molding in addition to building some nice shelving units and a couple of computer desks and dressers. I was wondering what would be the ideal Miter Saw for the job. I just came across a good deal at my local building supply house. It's a DeWalt DW715 12" Direct-Drive Compound Miter Saw that spins at 4,000 RPM with a single bevel, not a double bevel. The DW716 has a double bevel but it also has the motor mounted differently to accommodate that feature, it is belt-driven, not a direct-drive like the DW715 and spins 400 RPM slower at 3,600 RPM and the regular price is $349.00. I just purchased the DW715 on sale for $219.00 which is $80.00 off the regular $299.00 price. The sale price of the 12" DW715 is the same as the regular price as the 10" DW713 which is also a Direct-Drive single bevel Miter Saw which spins faster at 5,000 RPM. I originally went in there to purchase the 10" DW713 saw until I noticed the bigger 12" DW715 on sale.
> Now does a Direct-Drive Motor produce more wobble than a Belt-Drive? Will the faster 1000 RPM of a Direct-Drive produce a smoother cut? The difference in RPM's between the Direct-Drive 10" DW713 and the Belt-Driven 12" DW716 is 1,400 RPM. Which will produce a smoother cut, a 10" or 12" blade? Is there really a  need for a Double Bevel? I've read that alot of people say that it is not necessary. And the Double Bevel Belt-Driven 12" DW716 would cost $130.00 more than the Single Bevel Direct Drive 12" DW715. And what about the belt-drive system, I know that more moving parts will be more stuff to wear out, more things to replace, more potential for things to go wrong. _What would you do...?_


I think the only purpose of a belt driven saw is to accommodate the required room for a dual bevel saw.


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## kiwi_outdoors (Jan 15, 2020)

Best = the saw for which you read the manual and check/adjust the settings so that the saw can do its best work.  And you give it a blade appropriate for the cut.


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