# Steel Wool vs Wet Sandpaper



## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

I'm using 0000 Steel Wool in between coats of oil poly, but I wonder if wet sandpaper would be more appropriate to get a more level finish? Rubbing out a run or high spot with steel wool seems to cause a uneven area. If so what grit(s) should I use? Also, would I use water or mineral spirit, the later of which would actually dissolve the finish.
If wet sandpaper is not used in situations like this, when is it required?

Thanks


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

We have had a steel wool expert on the forum. Do a search.
johnep


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

I personally use 0000 steel wool and I'm happy with the results. I've had allot of people tell me wet sanding was better but never tried it. As for water or mineral spirits Water for the reason you mentioned.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I believe that sandpaper would be best for leveling out a high spot. Use a straight piece of wood (or other hard, flat object) as a backer so that you gen an even sanding.

George


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

I have been redoing a 36 Plymouth woodie, all ash. I have 8-12 coats of marine poly, sanded between coats. After about 5-6 coats, I went to 600 wet paper, then to 1200 for the last few coats. looks like glass!!! But probably not too practical for hauling manure and passengers luggage.

Steel wool left to many very fine scratches to suit me.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I would use 3M Freecut silicone carbide paper. I use 320 grit to scuff sand my seal coat and the first couple coats after that. Use with a sanding block to assure a nice flat surface and should be used dry. This is good enough for most projects. 

If you are going for a closed coat finish or high gloss then wet sanding is required. I really don't do any wet sanding until after all coats have been applied, I start with 800 grit and work my way up to 4000 grit before buffing. 

The problem with wet sanding or sanding with too fine grit sandpaper when using polyurethane is that poly requires a mechanical bond between coats for adhesion. If you sand too fine or don't sand at all then that coat of finish could peel off or wrinkle.


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## DRJZ1974 (May 19, 2010)

I used 320 between coats of urethane on a recent project and I ended up with a very glassy finish, but had several fine scratches that appear to be in the layers of urethane. Anyone have ideas where I went wrong?


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## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

These guys all know what they're doing. Trust me, I'm writing them down.
But I've had great luck with staggered grits of dry paper (sand with a flat surface to keep your work flat). Work your way up to the standard 220 grit (using a flat surface). 
Then I end it with an automotive grit (I like 400-600). It doesn't take much... as a matter of fact, you can definitely over-do-it. If it's too smooth, it will also show. 
Be careful (especially with paper) to keep the project flat. 95% of the people will just look and say "wow". But the woodworkers will touch it and feel the hills and valleys if you're not careful.
Hope it helps.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

DRJZ1974 said:


> I used 320 between coats of urethane on a recent project and I ended up with a very glassy finish, but had several fine scratches that appear to be in the layers of urethane. Anyone have ideas where I went wrong?


You applied the urethane too thin. If you apply a very thin coat of urethane sanding scratches will telegraph through the finish. I like to apply oil based urethane with a foam roller if possible and then tip off with a quality bristle brush. (Actually I would prefer to spray but this is for those who can't spray)


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

depending on the thickness of you poly or vqarnish get your self and sanding spunge and wrap some 280 on it and use long strokes with the grain. now thats good for the first two coats. b4 the last coat use the wool lightly, just to knock off the sheen. make sure you wipe down with denatured alcohol, ( poring on the rag not matirial surface ) the wet streak fallowing your rag should evaperate in seconds. steel wool has an oil coating on it to prevent it from rusting and you want to remove any residue that may be left

my expireance with foam rollers is they create bubbles i never use them, better of using a 4" mohair roller but i spray everything i can.


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