# Ball bearing rollers for outfeed



## egeorge1 (Dec 18, 2009)

I'm considering making my own TS outfeed table that folds down when not in use. I am considering using ball bearing rollers such as those offered by Woodcraft. They have 5/8" and 1" versions with the same weight rating. 

Is there any reason to get one size over another? 

Is there anything else I should know about these?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*These rollers?*

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2000905/2000905.aspx
Before I build something with them, I'd ask the question "does anyone use them?"
I have a fold down roller extension table that uses rolling pin type rollers, a tube with a bearing in each end. This works like greased lightning!, almost too well. HTC make a model for most saw, but it's around $300.00 if I recall.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/table-saw-outfeed-table-ideas-12781/

:thumbsup: bill


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## egeorge1 (Dec 18, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2000905/2000905.aspx
> Before I build something with them, I'd ask the question "does anyone use them?"
> I have a fold down roller extension table that uses rolling pin type rollers, a tube with a bearing in each end. This works like greased lightning!, almost too well. HTC make a model for most saw, but it's around $300.00 if I recall.
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/table-saw-outfeed-table-ideas-12781/
> ...


Yes those rollers, and that's why I'm asking the question to see if others have used them and what their thoughts are. I was considering them because I read about some people having problems with tube type rollers having a steering effect if not perfectly perpendicular to the fence. Several people complain about the tube rollers in the following thread and skymaster at the end mentions the steering problem at the end of this thread. So I know at least one person here has tried them... http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/...e-support-best-30-bucks-ive-ever-spent-12651/


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Let me understand*

Are you going to get those flip top Ridgid Stands and then put the roller balls on the table surface? That seems like a good idea to me, rather than building a separate frame and attaching it to your saw. Better yet attach the rollers to a separate piece of ply that you can clamp/screw to your Ridgid tables so when you need a smooth top you have one.:thumbsup: bill


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## egeorge1 (Dec 18, 2009)

Well I found the answer to what the difference is between the sizes here http://www.woodzone.com/woodwork/Jigs/BB_Rollers.htm
Apparently the larger ones can carry more weight.

I did find a lot of favorable reviews here http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5328&TabSelect=Reviews
including one where it sounds like they replaced the tube roller with them with good results.


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## egeorge1 (Dec 18, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Are you going to get those flip top Ridgid Stands and then put the roller balls on the table surface? That seems like a good idea to me, rather than building a separate frame and attaching it to your saw. Better yet attach the rollers to a separate piece of ply that you can clamp/screw to your Ridgid tables so when you need a smooth top you have one.:thumbsup: bill


 That wasn't what I was thinking but it is something to consider. Why do you think that would be better than having a fold down one mounted to the TS?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I think its a preference*

The table saw mounted type needs a relief for the miter slot milled into the top or a gap for the bar. The portable ones are more versatile and can be used on other projects or for supporting long work on the miter saw for instance. I use both types in my shop and also the single roller stands which tend to be tippy when working with plywood sheets. Any thing that that sags a little will catch the roller mid way and push it over. PITA.
The Rigid ones look pretty stable. :thumbsup: bill


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

egeorge1 said:


> That wasn't what I was thinking but it is something to consider. Why do you think that would be better than having a fold down one mounted to the TS?


I have portable roller stands which I can move around to whichever piece of equipment I am working with. This is very handy. You could make a fold down unit which could also be portable and attachable. Then, if you want to work with a planer, miter saw, or whtever, you could move your stand to it. Saves having to build seperate out feed stands for each piece of equipment.

Gerry


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I like just a laminate covered outfeed table. this is what a lot of cabinet shops use.
Rollers steer the wood. Been there!
If I had the room, I would have an outfeed table with 2' on the left of the saw and 4' or more behind the saw including the extension table.
I have a few roller stands, and would trade them for ball rollers in a minute.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I use laminate in/outfeeds also, but if I had to choose between ball rollers and pin rollers I'd go with the high quality ball rollers for the reason cited; pins steer the sheet goods unless they stay perfectly aligned, something I never could achieve with pin rollers. 

But high quality, heavy duty ball rollers are very expensive if you need a lot of them and so that's why I use laminates. Actually for the last 4 years or so, my rip saw has been set up with two of those 30" x 8' long office tables with the fold-up/down legs. One for the infeed and one for the outfeed. They are just particle board with a cheapo laminated film covering the particle board. 

I did have to install a beefy 2 x 4 frame with a couple cross braces beneath it becuase after a few months i noticed the tables were starting to cup. When I set it up it was meant to be temporary, but they've served so well I never had to replace them. The laminate is almost worn through in some places so I probably need to retire them soon because the grooves will soon be deep enough to start steering smaller lengths of wood, but other than that I been well pleased with my cheapo office tables. 

I do have quite a few portable pin and ball rollers, but the ball rollers are the cheapies from big box and I never use them. The pin rollers have been so neglected they have a thick coat of dust on them so that now I can't remember what color they are.


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## Roger Newby (May 26, 2009)

I have found that the ball rollers, over time, get sawdust in them and stop rolling:thumbdown: I went back to a laminate top that I keep waxed. It also serves as a work surface, whereas the rollers only serve as an obstacle.


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## egeorge1 (Dec 18, 2009)

TexasTimbers said:


> I use laminate in/outfeeds also, but if I had to choose between ball rollers and pin rollers I'd go with the high quality ball rollers for the reason cited; pins steer the sheet goods unless they stay perfectly aligned, something I never could achieve with pin rollers.
> 
> I do have quite a few portable pin and ball rollers, but the ball rollers are the cheapies from big box and I never use them. The pin rollers have been so neglected they have a thick coat of dust on them so that now I can't remember what color they are.


Are the Woodcraft ones what you would consider high quality? Would the high quality ones keep the sawdust out of them?

Another option I was thinking of instead of ball bearings was using a thin sheet of uhmw or hardboard over the outfeed table that is slick and could be replaced if it got too beat up over time. Perhaps this is a better option?


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## Ed'sGarage (Aug 16, 2007)

*outfeed table*

Eric, I'm with those using an outfeed table with a laminate top. I got a new TS last year, searched the net and found plans for a table, I believe from Wood magazine. It's removable, in that I attached a cleat to the angle iron on the back of my saw. I usually leave it attached, however and it also serves as an additional work surface. If need be I can just lift it off the cleat, fold it and store it against a wall. If you want pics of it, PM me, I'll take them and send them along.
Ed


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## sofalinux (May 28, 2009)

I don't have any advice but I am going to take this opportunity to display my homemade roller stand. It was unbelievably difficult to make because I wasn't sure how I was going to do it. It was a learn-on-the-fly deal. But it is very sturdy, stable, adjustable and cheap. The roller is $4.99 at HF but it was on sale for, I forget, $1.99 or $2.99. The wood is scrap. Had to buy a few bolts.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

egeorge1 said:


> Are the Woodcraft ones what you would consider high quality? Would the high quality ones keep the sawdust out of them?
> 
> Another option I was thinking of instead of ball bearings was using a thin sheet of uhmw or hardboard over the outfeed table that is slick and could be replaced if it got too beat up over time. Perhaps this is a better option?


I'm not familiar with the Woodcraft ones Eric, but an old southern adage that says _Good meat ain't cheap, and cheap meat ain't good. _ . . . which you can probably also apply to tools in general. Maybe if you catch an industrial factory auction you could get some industrial strength rollers on the cheap. 

Barring that why don't you consider a sheet melamine plywood. last I checked most big boxes still carry it. Pound for pound that stuff is cheap. If you can't get it locally and you end up making your own, you can use the cheapest laminate (like Formica etc) that the big box carries, and adhere it to some 3/4" plywood. Don;t use MDF because that stuff doesn't hold screws very well and you'll be wanting to screw it to the table saw or at least to a hinge where you can drop it out of the way when you want. 

Just a few ideas of the top of the noggin, but I wouldn't use good money for cheap meat (rollers). Let us know what route you go and how it works out.


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## egeorge1 (Dec 18, 2009)

TexasTimbers said:


> Just a few ideas of the top of the noggin, but I wouldn't use good money for cheap meat (rollers). Let us know what route you go and how it works out.


Thanks. I'll post pics when I have something to show.


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## k4zmb (Aug 16, 2012)

Eric, I agree with Roger. Saw dust will eventually get into the case that holds the bearing and eventually limit the movement of the bearing. Think about why you wear a dust mask. If the tiny particles of dust can get into your lungs, they can certainly get through the space between the bearing and the case; there has to be some space, however small, that allows the bearing to turn. I would go with laminate. It's cheaper, slick, omnidirectional and longer lasting, AND you can use the surface for other tasks without the impediment of the roller bearings in the way.
k4zmb


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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

A piece of laminated ply is about all you really need for outfeed. Rollers or ball bearings will make the workpiece move a bit easier, but I've never felt the need for that.

I have both roller and ball bearing stands that I can use when/where I need them, and prefer the ball bearing kind. If they aren't set just right, the rollers try to "steer" your work for you.


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