# How smooth of a finish do you get from ca glue?



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I sanded this handle to 600 it was perfectly smooth. I used a clean paper towel. I put on one drop of medium ca glue and quickly wiped it across the handle. I let the glue dry and applied another coat. After 3 coats I lightly sanded with 600 grit. I applied another 3 coats, then lightly sanded. I then put on the last coat. I used a clean part of the paper towel for each coat. The finish has scratches in it.


----------



## jgilfor (Jan 25, 2013)

No matter how careful you are, you will get streaks in CA finish. It's inevitable! You can minimize them by only applying the CA in one direction with one single pass, and you can try a thinner CA preparation with more coats.

Getting rid of them is the secret.

I wet sand lightly with foam backed 1000 grit, then with foam backed 1500 grit. Not too aggressively, or you'll eat through the finish. Lastly, polish with plastic polish. You can use the automotive variety or the stuff (several brands) made for CA finish polishing.

That will (should) leave a glass finish that is hard as any acrylic finish.


----------



## dartman (Oct 12, 2012)

What jgilfor said.You can get a glass like finish.


----------



## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

I've found that to get rid of the streaks, you have to use something on the back of the sandpaper that is somewhat firm and flat, not your finger. It has to be firm and flat enough to sand only the high parts, not the slow areas. If you use your finger you sand the highs and the lows and won't gain anything. If you had something like the stuff a plastic milk bottle is made of but only flat yet somewhat flexible.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Would a dense foam work, or maybe thin sheet metal?


----------



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I use Micro Mesh sanding pads and Novus plastic polish. 

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-Pe...57044&sr=8-5&keywords=micro-mesh+sanding+pads

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=t&ref=pd_sl_5j5c8dfl9k_b


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

How long do those sanding pads last?


----------



## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

I do not apply CA on the lathe. I follow Alan Trout's method. I fold half of a bounty paper towel so that I have a 45° corner that is eight layers thick. I use super thin Starbond CA and saturate about ¾" of the end of the 45° corner and then take one quick swipe across the piece -- that's it ... one swipe and toss the paper towel on the ground. I then quickly spritz it lightly with Starbond accelerator in the pump sprayer. Aerosol accelerator will cause the CA to fume and it may also fume if you do nothing, but it shouldn't fume with the pump sprayer Starbond accelerator.

The largest piece that I have done with this method is a vase that is about nine inches tall. I was able to start sanding with 1500 grit Micromesh and I progressed through all of the grits up to 12,000 which resulted in a glass-like shine. Here is a link that shows the vase thread: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/box-elder-vase-62699/

To emphasize what I mean by quick, I mean no more than about one second. I don't rub the paper towel back and forth nor do I try to cover the entire surface of the piece.


----------



## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

hwebb99 said:


> How long do those sanding pads last?



I buy the much bigger Micromesh pads from Rockler's. They last a very long time if you take care of them. It is best to use them wet, but you can use them dry. Wash them frequently.


----------



## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

One thing that helps make the sanding marks disappear is to cross sand with the lathe off after sanding while running. Do it with each grit. It helps to randomize the inevitable microscratches you get from sandpaper.


----------



## knika (Jan 15, 2012)

I think the problem is the paper towel. Use bathroom tissue that is not quilted or Kleenex tissue. Always sand with the grain.


----------



## G.A. Clymore (Jul 7, 2014)

I use thin ca with a clean paper towel each coat. Put a few drops on and make an even pass let dry and repeat. When you get the coats on that you want I spray a shot of accelerator to set it. Wet sand with the micro mesh pads and it looks like glass.


----------



## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

OK. I realize I will probably catch hell for my method but here goes. I don't even worry about being so finicky with the finish. I always take the wood down a few thousandths below the bushings. Then I put the pen between centers and do a build-up of CA a few thousandths over where it needs to be. I don't even care how smooth it goes on. Then I use 400 grit wet to level it all off and bring it close to measurement. And continue polishing through the grits down to measurement. Last few grits are Micro mesh to 12k. Finally plastic polish completely eliminates any fine lines. This all ads up to a deep, smooth, durable finish that is less finicky. Although it certainly take me longer than some people.


----------



## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Also... Make sure you are cleaning between grits. All it takes its one little grain to leave those fine scratches.


----------



## dartman (Oct 12, 2012)

tewitt1949 said:


> I've found that to get rid of the streaks, you have to use something on the back of the sandpaper that is somewhat firm and flat, not your finger. It has to be firm and flat enough to sand only the high parts, not the slow areas. If you use your finger you sand the highs and the lows and won't gain anything. If you had something like the stuff a plastic milk bottle is made of but only flat yet somewhat flexible.



I use the wide emery boards.


----------



## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

george a clymore said:


> ... When you get the coats on that you want I spray a shot of accelerator to set it. Wet sand with the micro mesh pads and it looks like glass.


This reminds me of one other thing. Do not apply a new wipe of CA until the previous layer is fully hardened. This can be especially troublesome if using medium CA and applying a new layer over one that is not fully cured.



PSDkevin said:


> OK. I realize I will probably catch hell for my method but here goes....


If it works then it works. I don't think that there is anything wrong with your method. It might require more sanding that some methods, but then you won't be as concerned about sanding through the finish because it is thick.


----------



## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

PSDkevin said:


> OK. I realize I will probably catch hell for my method but here goes. I don't even worry about being so finicky with the finish. I always take the wood down a few thousandths below the bushings. Then I put the pen between centers and do a build-up of CA a few thousandths over where it needs to be. I don't even care how smooth it goes on. Then I use 400 grit wet to level it all off and bring it close to measurement. And continue polishing through the grits down to measurement. Last few grits are Micro mesh to 12k. Finally plastic polish completely eliminates any fine lines. This all ads up to a deep, smooth, durable finish that is less finicky. Although it certainly take me longer than some people.


I basically use the same method as this
although i start with the 1500 wet sand and go up


----------



## Haus (Jan 29, 2014)

I'll throw in my $.02.
Sand up to 600, 2 coats of diluted sanding sealer. 
4 coats thin, accelerator, 1000 grit sand (lathe off), re-wipe with the accelerator paper towel just to remove dust.
Repeat the above twice, for a total of 12 coats. 
Wet sand from 1,000 - 12,000.
Even after the 12,000 grit it will still be a bit dull, secret here (as mentioned above) is 2 coats of the Novus polish. I've heard people use automotive scratch remover/compounds as well. 
Example of a shift knob with this finish -


----------



## joek30296 (Dec 16, 2009)

Go here: http://www.penturners.org/forum/ 

Lots of good information and you should be able to find a suitable answer to your question.


----------

