# HELP! Severe table saw top rust!



## TonyBal (May 17, 2011)

I am trying to remove the rust off of the cast iron top of a very expensive table saw that that some idiot, (ME!!!), neglected. It is pretty bad & pitted in some areas. I know it will never look new again, but right now I will settle for functionality. At the moment I am using Boeshield Rust Free & a synthetic steel wool pad. This was recommended, & sold to me, by my local “Wood Works”. They also said not to use sand paper. :huh:I tried some WD 40 & a scrub pad just to compare products & the Boeshield Rust Free is working much better. I guess my question(s) is does any one know of a better product & is wet sanding with the rust removing product going to damage the already damaged top. Maybe I just need to hit it 5 or 10 more times & live with it.:bangin:


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Not sure just how bad we are talking about. I have brought back within reason, an old Craftsman contractor saw with a friend (he scored it off of Craigslist for close enough to free to make it worth the effort...). We used Evapo-Rust, WD-40, and those scotch brite pads under a quarter sheet sander that was on its last legs... While there are still some tiny pits left in the top, it wasn't nearly as bad as we thought it was going to be...

If the rust has gotten to the pitting stage, chances are shy of having the tables re-machined, you will never have the top dead on perfect again, but you can go a very long way with a good quality rust remover, WD-40, and an abrasive pad... And yes it takes LOTS of elbow grease to get it done...


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## Fishbucket (Aug 18, 2010)

I've power sanded and or used a 36 grit grinding disc to remove rust with narry a problem. 
Go in progression to finer sanding and you shouldnt have a problem... well, at least less of a problem with it being rusted to begin with.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Start out with Scotchbrite 7440. If that don't cut it, then I use wet/dry automotive paper with a little PB Blaster....then back to the 7440.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I just did a fair amount of rust removal on a Unisaw top I'm restoring. I have the advantage of having a sandblasting cabinet so I used it with fine sand and relatively low pressure. It was time consuming but worked. Then I finished up with a Scotch-brite type pad on a ROS and then 220 grit. I may go finer with the abrasive to finish.

Then I saw this link: http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95349 It looks faster than the blaster and uses much cheaper equipment (razor blades). Those guys working on ol' arn are rust removal experts. They have electrolysis figured out, too.

Bill


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I have a unisaw I bought new in 85 or somewhere about then and have used 100 grit on a ROS then on to a 220 grit then Johnson past wax and buffed out in a few minutes. While it has never pitted it was rust, kinda. Don't dig in one spot when sanding though and don't use a lot of pressure. My saw table is still flat and smooth like a grill down at the Waffle House. :thumbsup: I know some of the fellows here wouldn't do this.


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## TonyBal (May 17, 2011)

Thanks for all of the help. I am going to take some pictures tonight and post them. I'll show you what I'm up against & what I've done so far. Maybe that will help. Originally I was too embarassed :icon_redface: but WTH, you guys don't know where I live.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i use an electric drill, wire cup brush and wd40. run one direction then the other. finish off with car wax.


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## Fishbucket (Aug 18, 2010)

Put some power to it... You wont hurt it. :no:


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

*Get it wet*

sounds funny but the rust is often worse in appearance than it is. That said pull out the sander and go at it with W/D paper get the good stuff last twice as long. Sand for a short bit wipe off and repeat till the rust for the most part is gone then change to a finer grit paper, start with 200 then work your way through the grades until you reach 1200 then wash off with acetone. Fnish it off with melted paraffin wax canning wax work it in like you would BLO get it warn and remove excess, should be as smooth as a baby's bottom.

Jerry


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Why did they say "don't use sandpaper"?

Use an ROS, belt sander, drill/pad or sanding block. Work the table evenly so there aren't any low spots. Wet sanding with rust penetrant works like a dream, but makes a mess.


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## TonyBal (May 17, 2011)

Here are some before & after pictures. It is getting there. I'm going for smooth & flat for now. I guess I'll have to live with the stains.:furious: All of this advice sparked the idea of using a palm sander with the synthetic steel wool pad instead of just elbow grease. That sped things up X10. That & lots of Rust Away!:thumbsup:


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## TonyBal (May 17, 2011)

Brink said:


> Why did they say "don't use sandpaper"?
> 
> Use an ROS, belt sander, drill/pad or sanding block. Work the table evenly so there aren't any low spots. Wet sanding with rust penetrant works like a dream, but makes a mess.



They said it would scratch the top & damage it. I guess they didn't really know how bad it was.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

They make a product called evaporust that works really well. A bud of mine was the dealer for down here until they struck up a deal with auto-zone. It will remove the rust with no elbow grease and leave a slight patina behind which can be wiped or buffed off. Might be worth a shot. Get the jell version because your saw is obviously too large to 'soak'

~tom


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Used dry, aluminum oxide or garnet paper 100x-150x on a block will remove rust. When done wipe down immediately with either lacquer thinner or acetone. Coat the top with Topcote. I don't use wax.












 







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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

TonyBal said:


> They said it would scratch the top & damage it. I guess they didn't really know how bad it was.


Scratch and damage cast iron? They obviously don't make a living working metal. If you scratched it with 60 grit, it can still be polished out with finer grades.

you're after pics look great. The stains are really etching. The only fix for etching and pitting would be to have the top surface ground. Other than the appearance, they won't affect the operation at all.

Keep doing what your doing, it's cleaning up nice.


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## Jackfre (Dec 23, 2009)

*My '48 Unisaw's top*

was well used an a mess when I bought it 20 yrs ago. I took an angle grinder and a wire cup brush to it. That made short work of the surface rust. I then did the ROS, and Top Kote. I had to put all the tools up once for an extended period and knew if I wasn't working with them for a while they would rust up again. I had just used some POR15 on a car I was restoring and so I took the left-over, prepped and painted the table top. When I was ready to get back to work it cleaned up real well. Your after pictures look great. Your before pics...not so much:thumbsup:


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## TonyBal (May 17, 2011)

Here is the final outcome. Before & after:yes:. I did finally use a variety of sanding sponges which sped up the process. That was after using an entire bottle of "Rust Away". Final step was using a very fine eraser type sanding square & some carnuba wax. I will never let that happen again!!!!:bangin: Thanks for the input & encouragement!!!:thumbsup:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TonyBal said:


> Final step was using a very fine eraser type sanding square & some carnuba wax.


Wax...no. Topcote...yes...if you plan to ever do finishing. JMO FWIW NAFM ATTT BYM IGWT EPU












 









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## waterman1971 (May 15, 2011)

This is going to sound crazy. Mop and glo will protect the surface until you decide what type of finish to use.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Wax...no. Topcote...yes...if you plan to ever do finishing. JMO FWIW NAFM ATTT BYM IGWT EPU
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My stars, you left off AFL-CIO.:laughing: I know what two of them means but the rest just went right over my head.:blink:

Buddy, you did a great job on your top.


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## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

jiju1943 said:


> My stars, you left off AFL-CIO.:laughing: I know what two of them means but the rest just went right over my head.:blink:
> 
> Buddy, you did a great job on your top.


Also left out ILGWU


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