# Quick and easy picture frame assembly



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

I've made hundreds of frames, tried all kinds of clamps, jigs and what not. I can say I didn't like any of them.

So, here's my technique.

This started out as rough cut ash yesterday afternoon. After finishing the cove profiles and rabbets I cut the miters.

2 most important details, the cuts have to be perfect 45 degrees, and the opposite pieces need to be the same lengths. If not, there's no clamping that will pull the joints together.

Here's the frame dry fitted.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Here I fastened the end of a roll of stretchy electrical tape to the frame.

Next I applied some glue to the joints


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Now I stretch and wrap the tape around the frame a couple of times. 

As I wrap it, I make sure the corners are lined up, and the frames are flush together.

If you work fast, the pieces can be nudged into alignment before the glue starts to set.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

And a look at the back side...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

That's one way, sad to admit it but I've bought more frames than built... 

Anywho cool tip

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

firemedic said:


> That's one way, sad to admit it but I've bought more frames than built...
> 
> Anywho cool tip
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


This particular one is for a close friends wedding, Monday.

One by one, I'm replacing the bought frames in my house.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi Brink - Do you use v-nails or any reinforcement on the corners or just strictly glue joints?:icon_confused:


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi Brink - Do you use v-nails or any reinforcement on the corners or just strictly glue joints?:icon_confused:


I try to use the straightest grain wood when making frames. Up to 2" wide I've had great luck with titebond II and tight joints. Occasionally I'll use splines, but mostly for looks. Never had a failure, and that's with oak, teak, mahogany, maple, polar, cherry and some pallet wood.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Was that a panel raiser or table edge bit? I wouldn't have thought to use that for a frame.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

firemedic said:


> Was that a panel raiser or table edge bit? I wouldn't have thought to use that for a frame.
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


The cove and rabbet was done on the TS. Then I added detail with a 1/2" core box bit and a router table.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Brink said:


> The cove and rabbet was done on the TS. Then I added detail with a 1/2" core box bit and a router table.


Ahhh ok! I tried cutting a cove one time with a RAS... Results were terrible and the set-up was so dangerous that it scared me off from ever trying it again... I was 16 and had no clue what I was doing. I do want to learn how though.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Nice tip Brink........we don't do a whole lot of framing,mostly for art stuff 'round here.We use an ancient Stanley 400?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Stanley...189?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25656b7575

Looks like this.BW


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

BWSmith said:


> Nice tip Brink........we don't do a whole lot of framing,mostly for art stuff 'round here.We use an ancient Stanley 400?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Stanley...189?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25656b7575
> 
> Looks like this.BW


 
I have a German built device on the same principal as the Stanley 400...just never liked it much.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

*Frame cutting jig*

Thought I would share the jig I made to make picture frames. Makes it easy to set equal length sides.
I's for smaller frames. If I need to make a big frame, I'll build a larger one.
The adjustable stop makes it easy to get the lengths equal.
Where the legs attach to the sled, it sits on a channel, with a slot and wing nut to secure. I set the leg all the way in and tighten the nut. Then I adjust the stop for the length. Then move the leg out of the channel about 1/32" Then cut the miter. Then slide the leg all the way in, and cut to length, with a fine cut. The last time I made a frame, I didn't bother using the 2 cut method. The blade was cutting good that day!
It's amazing how fast it is to cut all 4 sides to length.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Pirate, that will make cutting the parts easier.


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## Vexorg (Apr 16, 2014)

Brink said:


> Now I stretch and wrap the tape around the frame a couple of times.
> 
> As I wrap it, I make sure the corners are lined up, and the frames are flush together.
> 
> If you work fast, the pieces can be nudged into alignment before the glue starts to set.


How do you wipe the glue off the bottom if it overflows? Or do you just sand it off?


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