# Would you?



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I had to miter the end of a small piece of base molding, not this one, but I put it on the miter saw and said "NO". Took it to the bandsaw and held it vertically in the extended miter guage, no problem. But I got to wondering how to do it safely on the miter saw, since bandsaws arent all that portable...hmmm I used the Woodworker's Secret Weapon, duct tape to Red Green, double sided tape! No problem. I taped it to a longer scrap and made the cut with my hands safely away, and for you non-believers, I had to pry the piece off with a knife...it was on there.  bill


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Smart idea :yes:. Not only for safety reasons but it's often difficult to have small pieces lay still on the table, especially if they are not fully supported by the fence.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Yep, double stick tape is great, a lil' goes a long way!

I might have let the sacrificial table run longer, so as to be supported by the fence and no chance of being sucked through.


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## schnitz (Sep 5, 2009)

I saw one cut similarly to that once, but the guy did it on a "sacrifice sled" on his table saw. I like your idea much better, though.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Hotmelt works good. Some double sided tape doesn't stick too well to composites and plywood. Dusty porous surfaces make questionable substrates to tape to.












 









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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Good call on saying "no". I try to go by the saying, "if it doesn't feel good, don't do it" That last thing we need around here is another poster in the "lets see some damage" thread.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

when posible i will cut my bevel first then cut my length.
but that worked well.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Bill,
I know the feeling, are three fingers in the shop vac worth the cut? 

First thought was chop saw at 90° and then miter at 45° with the work clamped to the fence. Awkward, ugly and kick out prone. Maybe the saw doesn't have the necessary depth of cut.

The next thought was a 45° fence on the disk sander. Not as quite ugly.

The next thought was table saw for you left tilting types and a good hold down push stick. Better but not the best.

Finally I thought of a 45° chamfer bit in the router table and a guide strip double side tape to the top of the work piece.

As an after thought, rip one long piece to make all of your bevel pieces. Then cut the bevels on the table saw. Last chop saw for the final cut to length of multiple pieces.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i would have.... flipped it and moved it to the other side of the blade ( after removing the screw). but, usually cut the angle first then to length when i can as mentioned earlier.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

I do some strange cuts like that, and you can pretty much tell how tight the piece is sticking before you attempt the cut. If you're not confident, don't do it.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

It's always dangerous cutting small pieces. When possible, make the miter cut on a long piece, then cut it to the shorter length. By screwing a wood back fence to the saw, you would eliminate the recess in the metal fence, scrap and the work piece won't get sucked in. You will have a continuous straight edge to register the work to.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*My example*

That piece was not the actual piece I need to cut, but the size was about the same. The real piece was a cutoff from a piece of molding that was prefinished and there was no more existing. 
So that's how this all came about. Absolutely make the miter cuts first then cut to length when possible, it just wasn't possible this time. Thanks all. good answers. :thumbsup: bill
FYI That sticky tape did work great.


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