# Minwax Wipe on Poly problem



## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

I turned a piece of cherry I got from a friend (storm damage) into a bowl and have been trying to get a gloss finish on it.

After 6 coats of Minwax Wipe-on-Poly (gloss), I still haven't got a uniform surface -- it's like half the bowl is simply rejecting the poly!

Before the first coat, I sanded the wood through 600 grit and gave it 3 doses of Danish oil, wiping off all the excess and allowing it to dry between coats.

Then I gave it the first coat of Wipe-on-Poly, let it dry, sanded lightly with 220 grit and removed the dust (as per the instructions on the can), and gave it another coat of Wipe-on-Poly.

Lather, rinse, repeat ... now it's up to 6 coats.

In the photo, there seems to be a dividing line -- to the left of it, there is a reasonable build-up of gloss finish. To the right, it's partial cover (at best) and in places it's like there's no poly at all.

Any suggestions for how I can improve this?

Thanks!


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## jleep (Oct 27, 2011)

Hi hopefully this helps....sometimes cherry can benefit from a conditioner but most wil only use it if they're gonna stain...it just makes whatever you put on next more even.....secondly don't sand to 600 way too fine and will block out any absorption of the wipe on poly....sand 220 them wipe on heavy coat of the wipe on poly thinned about 10% with tung oil while it's on take 400 wet/dry sand paper and sand with grain let stand 5 min for max penetration then wipe off excess lightly (not all of it but leave a wet sheen loo to it) repeat process w/out wet sanding and leaving more of it on....it'll take longer to dry but I'll get a nice "build" with it. On the last coat (about 5) wetsand again w/ 1000 or use synthetic after it drys if there is inconsistencies from your sanding....too hard in some areas and the sheen isn't even them use rotten stone or liquid wool lube and 0000 steel wool to give it that baby butt smooth and satin finish.....if bight gloss is what u want then wipe on more coat after the 1000 sand and leave to dry....don't wipe excess!

And by the way you don't need to sand between coats of a wipe on poly .....even if the can says so....it's such Arjun coat you'll end up sanding through it and have about 1 1/2 or 2 coats rather than 5......just use green scotch brite pads between coats to remove any dust the's settled


Jleep


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## Upstate (Nov 28, 2011)

Your results may vary, but I have found when using wipe on poly, it's already such a thin coat that you're putting on, that it's easy to sand much of it off with 220 grit. I'd try either a 320 or 600 grit and see if you get better results. I've also used 0000 steel wool with good results (even though that's supposedly a no-no because it may rust, but I've never had that issue)


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Thanks for these tips.

In the photo, this is how the bowl looks after the 5th (or is it 6th?) coat dried.

I have not sanded it after the last coat was put on, but looks like there is bare wood in several quite large areas.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

duncsuss said:


> After 6 coats of Minwax Wipe-on-Poly (gloss), I still haven't got a uniform surface -- it's like half the bowl is simply rejecting the poly!


Assuming it is an oil base, that should have been sufficient.



duncsuss said:


> Before the first coat, I sanded the wood through 600 grit and gave it 3 doses of Danish oil, wiping off all the excess and allowing it to dry between coats.


"Danish oil" per se, is a stand alone oil base film finish. Sanding to 600 reduced the wood to properly absorb stain or topcoating. Most all woods need to go no further than 180x.



duncsuss said:


> Then I gave it the first coat of Wipe-on-Poly, let it dry, sanded lightly with 220 grit and removed the dust (as per the instructions on the can), and gave it another coat of Wipe-on-Poly.
> 
> Lather, rinse, repeat ... now it's up to 6 coats.


"Wipe-on-Poly" is basically the same as "Danish oil", and a redundant addition to the finish. The Danish oil likely has a longer dry time due to a higher ratio of oil to the varnish resin/solvent amount. Each application should have been scuff sanded with 320x prior to applying in order to get good adhesion.











 







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## hughie (Mar 22, 2008)

*not both*

I wouldnt have used both one or the other. The drying times are very different. DO can take forever with the wrong weather whereas wipe-on-poly is the opposite. 
With DO you can build a heavier coat coating faster, *** is very thin and takes much longer to get the depth of coat.


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## jleep (Oct 27, 2011)

Exactly on all accounts see above thread


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