# Planning to Restore Danish Modern Wall Unit (help)



## futurejoe (Apr 16, 2012)

Hi,

New to the forum - glad I found it.

I have a Danish Modern wall unit from the 60's and I feel like I need to either sell it or refinish it. I've always liked the piece, and it's actually a great storage cabinet.

The construction is a mix of solid wood and veneer over press board. I'd really appreciate if anyone can provide some tips on the following:

1. Surface prep: Just how 'sandable' is the surface? I'm assuming the whole piece should be lightly sanded after repairs are made with 320 grit paper.

2. Surface repair: Some dents look like they're a good candidate for some type of wood putty. However, the wood putty's I've seen either dissolve in water or state they don't dry to a sandable hardness. So, I'm a bit confused about wood putty!

3. Veneer repair: I have a fairly good understanding of the process, but any tips would help. For instance, teak veneer comes in several different thicknesses. 1/8", 1/42", 1/64". The veneer on this piece is very thin. Just wondering if anyone knows what the standard might have been back then, if there was one.

4. Refinishing: I'm assuming, not naively I hope, that this is not a lacquered finish. Rather, teak oil. Any thoughts on the refinishing process?

Most appreciated,
Joe


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Hi Joe, 

Sell it!!

Pressboard/veneer/with a small amount of soilds means it was made here, most likely by a North Carolina firm. . Veneer probalby 1/28 to 1/32, 1/28th was the standard then for good furniture. Had it been solids, then it would be worth restoring. Unless you have sentimental value attached to it, i really would sell it.


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## futurejoe (Apr 16, 2012)

My friend's parents bought in Denmark when they got married along with a hans wegner (solid) teak table.

Why would Danish Modern furniture be build here?

Also, I respect other opinions, but I really don't have a problem with veneered furniture if it's quality veneer. I know there's an ick factor to particle board but it's been in use since the early 50s. 

Any more thoughts?


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

futurejoe said:


> My friend's parents bought in Denmark when they got married along with a hans wegner (solid) teak table.
> 
> Why would Danish Modern furniture be build here?
> 
> ...


Nope, i can see you want to keep it, others will surely jump in on this, Thanks for updating me of first use of particle board in the netherlands though. Hang on to the table also though if you have it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

futurejoe said:


> Hi,
> 
> New to the forum - glad I found it.
> 
> ...


I wouldn't sell it especially if I liked it and had a use for it. That style was very popular, and still is. Modular units like that are still in demand. Depending on your skills and whatever equipment/tools you have I would keep the repairs and refinishing to a minimum.

The finish could be just an oiled finish, but you could feel it if it has a film like coating, which could be a lacquer finish. I've made many units like that with a lacquer finish and some with oil.

If you have to make any veneer repair, and it has to match up in thickness and appearance, try to get a section off where it won't show, to use as a sample to take to a supplier.

Some dents can be brought out with drops of water, or a wet towel and an iron. If you don't have the space or the incentive to indulge yourself, you may want to get bids from qualified finishers to get an idea what it would cost.










 







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## futurejoe (Apr 16, 2012)

*Wood Putty*

What types of tinted wood putty do you use that's also sandable? I suppose I could make some with teak saw dust and glue. But I don't have any teak saw dust...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

futurejoe said:


> What types of tinted wood putty do you use that's also sandable? I suppose I could make some with teak saw dust and glue. But I don't have any teak saw dust...


I would only use a putty as a last resort. There are several, a popular one is Famowood. It's available in many colors and can be tinted. Do a sample fill, as topcoating can change the color. 

There are also "fillers" that apply after finishing for small fills. They are like a crayon type, or come in small jars. Many colors and can be mixed for color matching. On all fillers, follow directions.










 







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