# Wood paneled walls?



## Martyanderson

I am planning on putting some wood paneling on a wall in my new office. The way I plan on building it is to put up 1/4" wood veneer paneling over the whole wall then putting on some rails and stiles I think they are called. The question I have is that I need to router some ogee type joints for the rails and stiles and the only router bits that I can find also cut a groove on the bottom of the rails and stiles to put 1/4" grooves for the paneling. Since I am mounting the rails and stiles on top of the paneling already on the wall I don't need the paneling groove. It would be a lot more work to cut the paneling in squares and mount it in the grooves. 
I hope this explanation is clear, it seems kind of hard to explain. Can anybody steer me towards the right router bits to use? Thanks


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## jschaben

Martyanderson said:


> I am planning on putting some wood paneling on a wall in my new office. The way I plan on building it is to put up 1/4" wood veneer paneling over the whole wall then putting on some rails and stiles I think they are called. The question I have is that I need to router some ogee type joints for the rails and stiles and the only router bits that I can find also cut a groove on the bottom of the rails and stiles to put 1/4" grooves for the paneling. Since I am mounting the rails and stiles on top of the paneling already on the wall I don't need the paneling groove. It would be a lot more work to cut the paneling in squares and mount it in the grooves.
> I hope this explanation is clear, it seems kind of hard to explain. Can anybody steer me towards the right router bits to use? Thanks


scratch this -


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## Steve Neul

If this is the concept you are looking for you can buy panel molding which has the rabbet on the back side. All you would have to do is make your stiles and rails with 1/4" plywood over the paneled wall and then trim.


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## Martyanderson

This is the style I am going for with unpainted wood. The point I am trying to make is that the wall would be covered with with 1/4" plywood with a veneer on it and then the rails and stiles applied over that in a pattern similar to the picture. That way I don't have to cut the panels into squares to fit inside the rails and stiles. Also I am doing all the woodwork in Cherry that I already own.


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## Martyanderson

jschaben said:


> scratch this -


Scratch what?


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## Steve Neul

Martyanderson said:


> This is the style I am going for with unpainted wood. The point I am trying to make is that the wall would be covered with with 1/4" plywood with a veneer on it and then the rails and stiles applied over that in a pattern similar to the picture. That way I don't have to cut the panels into squares to fit inside the rails and stiles. Also I am doing all the woodwork in Cherry that I already own.


For that style you can cover the wall with 1/4" plywood and then make your stiles and rails with 3/4" solid wood or plywood and then trim around the inside of the opening with solid wood molding. If you glue your stiles and rails to the paneling it would eliminate the need to make frames with joints. If you have very much do I would recommend making a sled for your table saw to miter the molding with. It will make cleaner cuts and will be quicker if you make the openings of consistent sizes.​​​


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## cabinetman

If you cover the whole wall with ¼" paneling, you can just apply the moulding to the surface. 









 







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## Martyanderson

Steve Neul said:


> For that style you can cover the wall with 1/4" plywood and then make your stiles and rails with 3/4" solid wood or plywood and then trim around the inside of the opening with solid wood molding. If you glue your stiles and rails to the paneling it would eliminate the need to make frames with joints. If you have very much do I would recommend making a sled for your table saw to miter the molding with. It will make cleaner cuts and will be quicker if you make the openings of consistent sizes.​


I actually thought about this but I did that with an old door I restored to hold the bottom panel in and it was impossible to stain the cheap whitewood molding I bought at Lowes to match the door. It didn't take stain well and I wasn't happy with the result. Plus it is just more work and money and the result wouldn't look as nice as a solid piece of Cherry.


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## Martyanderson

cabinetman said:


> If you cover the whole wall with ¼" paneling, you can just apply the moulding to the surface.
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 That's what I want to do but I need to router the cherry to fit together at the joints. I am still not sure I have made myself understood. I am not the most descriptive writer.


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## Alchymist

cabinetman said:


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> If you cover the whole wall with ¼" paneling, you can just apply the moulding to the surface.


Not exactly the look you're looking for, but 1/8" plywood with custom made trim over it. Not quite finished as you can see. The real painstaking part is facing the bookshelves with the trim. All those 45's!


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## cabinetman

Martyanderson said:


> That's what I want to do but I need to router the cherry to fit together at the joints. I am still not sure I have made myself understood. I am not the most descriptive writer.


You can use a rail and stile bit set and not use the grooving cutter. 









 







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## Martyanderson

cabinetman said:


> You can use a rail and stile bit set and not use the grooving cutter.
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 Now were talking! I guess that means that they can be taken apart right? I found a 2 piece set that said "the panel groove and stub tenon must be cut seperatly" Does that sound like what I need? Here is a link to the one I was looking at buying. I am using 3/4" cherry stock. Could you look at this please and tell me if this is what I need? Thanks for the help. 
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-4964-classical-stile-rail-cutters.aspx


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## jschaben

Martyanderson said:


> Now were talking! I guess that means that they can be taken apart right? I found a 2 piece set that said "the panel groove and stub tenon must be cut seperatly" Does that sound like what I need? Here is a link to the one I was looking at buying. I am using 3/4" cherry stock. Could you look at this please and tell me if this is what I need? Thanks for the help.
> http://www.toolstoday.com/p-4964-classical-stile-rail-cutters.aspx


Hi Marty - I think that's exactly what you are looking for:smile:
My "scratch this" post was a suggestion to use the rail and stile without the cutter but realized after I read it that that would throw the proportions off, giving sort of a goofy profile unless you did a lot of planning.:laughing:

Another thing you could do would be just use a standard profile bit, ogee or whatever, and miter all the joints so the profiles meet.


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## Martyanderson

Thanks jschaben, I appreciatte the help.


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## GeorgeC

cabinetman said:


> If you cover the whole wall with ¼" paneling, you can just apply the moulding to the surface.
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'Yes, it is a pretty simple job. You either buy or make the molding and then a simple miter joint at the corners.

George


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## Zircon

I did the same thing you want to do. 1/4" ply and glued on the rails and stiles. I purchased oak molding and applied it. The wall on the right with the pilaster is original and I added the paneling straight ahead with the light switch and the door knob. The door is a metal door and to hold down the added weight, I routed out the backs of the rails and stiles so they are just a shell. This is a condo apartment in a large old house that was converted to condos.


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## cabinetman

Martyanderson said:


> Now were talking! I guess that means that they can be taken apart right? I found a 2 piece set that said "the panel groove and stub tenon must be cut seperatly" Does that sound like what I need? Here is a link to the one I was looking at buying. I am using 3/4" cherry stock. Could you look at this please and tell me if this is what I need? Thanks for the help.
> http://www.toolstoday.com/p-4964-classical-stile-rail-cutters.aspx


There are a few ways you can get the same type look. If you are using lumber, you'll need to use the R&S bits to get the cope and stick mated corners where the rails meet the stiles (to get a squared inside corner). 

Or, if you made up the rails and stiles with lumber as a frame, and ran a profile bit around the inside edge, you would have a rounded profile in the corners...not squared off. For some projects this could look good. But if you want to make it look like actual door type panels, the inside corners should be square.

Or, you can cheat by using hardwood plywood for the rails and stiles, and just butt the rails to the stiles. Then cut moulding for the inside edges, and the outside edges and miter the corners. 

I did these bar front panels similar to that.


















 







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## Martyanderson

Zircon said:


> I did the same thing you want to do. 1/4" ply and glued on the rails and stiles. I purchased oak molding and applied it. The wall on the right with the pilaster is original and I added the paneling straight ahead with the light switch and the door knob. The door is a metal door and to hold down the added weight, I routed out the backs of the rails and stiles so they are just a shell. This is a condo apartment in a large old house that was converted to condos.


 Very nice! How did you get the metal door to look like wood? I will have one metal door in a firewall and I would like to get it to look like wood. I am re-using the old door below in the restroom and private office. Before and after pics.


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## Zircon

Martyanderson said:


> Very nice! How did you get the metal door to look like wood? .


Thanks for the compliment. I attached the 1/4" oak plywood to the metal door using self drilling self tapping screws where the rails and stiles are. I then glued the 3/4" solid oak rails and stiles to the plywood. These pieces are just butted together, no joinery.As mentioned before, that adds a lot of weight to the door so I routed out most of the bulk of the rails and stiles so they are just hollow shells.


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## Martyanderson

Zircon said:


> Thanks for the compliment. I attached the 1/4" oak plywood to the metal door using self drilling self tapping screws where the rails and stiles are. I then glued the 3/4" solid oak rails and stiles to the plywood. These pieces are just butted together, no joinery.As mentioned before, that adds a lot of weight to the door so I routed out most of the bulk of the rails and stiles so they are just hollow shells.


 Thanks for the info, I assume the metal door had a flat surface to work with correct? Was it a pre-hung door? If so did you have to modify the casing to accomodate the thickness of the wood panel?


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## Zircon

Martyanderson said:


> Thanks for the info, I assume the metal door had a flat surface to work with correct? Was it a pre-hung door? If so did you have to modify the casing to accomodate the thickness of the wood panel?


Yes, the door was flat and pre-hung. It has about a 2" metal frame that sits about 3/8" proud of the sheetrock wall. The stiles on either side of the door are 3/4" by 4". After adding the 1/4" plywood to the wall up to the metal door frame, the metal frame was 1/8" proud of the plywood. I rabbeted the stiles 1/8" by 2" so the stiles would sit tight on the plywood. No need to modify the casing.


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## GeorgeC

WOW. I wonder just what position sserun holds in that company??


Also, seeing this old thread makes me miss Cabinetman.


George


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## Fabiana Rivas

*Other*

you should try other decoration options http://www.panelsforwalls.com/products/decorative-wooden-panels/


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## joelwillsmith

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## True newtype

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## John Smith_inFL

this thread is closed for further additions - it has turned into a spam attractor.


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