# Cutting board "how-to" question



## Carl (Nov 29, 2008)

Hello. I'm making a cutting board in a woodworking class, and I'd like to rout in a rectangular channel in one face of the board. I'm not sure of the best words to use to describe what I mean, it's a sort of "moat" that collects liquid and stops it from running off the edge of the board; many cutting boards (mostly plastic ones) have this feature.

I'm trying to decide the best way to do this. I'm thinking that if I cut a piece of plywood (or similar) to about the size of the channel, then somehow attach it to the face of the board, I can use a plunge router to make the channel. So for example, if I have a 12 x 10 cutting board, I'd create a 10 x 8 guide board, attach it (centered) onto the cutting board, and then rout around it.

Does this sound like a good plan? Is there a better way to do it?

If this sounds good, any ideas on how to attach the guide board securely to the cutting board without damaging the cutting board? I was originally thinking of using clamps and just shifting the clamps around as needed, but then I thought maybe double-sided carpet tape might work better. I've never used this tape on wood, and am worried it would leave a residue.

Also, is there any special technique for centering the guide board onto the cutting board? It would look really bad if the channel rectangle was skewed. I really only need to align it with one axis of the cutting board -- the board is rectangular with a handle on one end. If I can align it with two sides I think that would be enough.

Thanks!

Carl


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## Majestic Builders (Nov 15, 2008)

i would say use a guide that slides onto your router so you know that the Chanel your cutting in your top is absolutely parallel to the out side edge of your board.


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## tribalwind (Dec 7, 2008)

yea i 2nd majestic's suggestion.
use a router edge-guide/fence.
i'd use a combination square to draw the offset line around the edges,like half an inch in should be good enough.(that'll be the outside edge of the well/moat) 
be careful when u get to the corners, dont go too far.the pencil line will let u know where to stop and then cut from the next side. easy as cake (actually cake would be harder) i'd use a 1/2"Dia core box bit, on that small a board.

edit: 
in case you dont Have a guide fence(theyre really handy,get it if you dont) 
and have to do the guide board way..instead of 8x10 as in your example , make it 9x11 , align it flush on 2 sides(1 corner) clamp it,route the 2 exposed sides then repeat on other side. done deal . use a brass template guide in that case..


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

I don't have an edge guide for my router so if it were me, I'd either use my shaper with stop blocks or make a jig for the cutting board to sit into. If the cutting board is 1x material, I would use a strip of 1x laid flat that butted against the cutting board then take a piece of 1x maybe 2" wide and brad nail it on edge to the flat board. The width of the flat board would be determined by where I wanted the channel and the reason for the flat board would be to keep my router level throughout the cut. The on edge strip would be a guide for the edge of my router. And, I'd use a fluting bit.


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

Carl,
I would go with your idea. Make the template as perfect as you can and use double sided tape to place in position. If you put center lines on the cutting board and the template (extended down the edges) you will be able to center it exactly.
I would use a bit with a bearing on it. If the bearing is a different size than the bit, take that into consideration when sizing your template.


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## Carl (Nov 29, 2008)

Thanks for the responses! :smile: The router isn't actually mine (I wish...), but belongs to the woodshop at school. I don't know if they have any edge guides, though I might consider buying one as I've been wanting to get one anyway. But I am not sure that would work for my cutting board; the board is a rectangle with a handle: at one of the short ends of the rectangle sticks out a long handle, sort of like you would expect on one of those pizza peels that you use to put a pizza in and out of the oven. I don't think the edge guide would work, as the end with the handle is curved, not straight. But maybe I am not thinking of the right sort of edge guide.

Rob -- thanks for the idea of the centerlines, I think I can make those with my combination square. You don't think that carpet tape will harm the wood (hard maple), or leave a sticky residue?

The instructor says he has a bit he thinks can work, though he seems a bit skeptical of the whole idea. :laughing: I'm considering just not doing the well, even though I really want to. Would be a shame to spend all this time making something, just to ruin it at the end.


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

Carl,
Some mineral spirits or naptha (lighter fluid) will help take off the residue and do no harm to the wood.
The bit I would use is this: Core Box and 'V' Groove Router Bits - By Amana Tool
The darker brown area in their drawing denotes the template that the bearing will ride against.
Like anything else in woodworking, if you haven't done it before and don't want to screw up the cutting board, practice on a piece of scrap wood that is flat...plywood, MDF, particle board.
I don't think I'd want a groove like this anything more than 3/16 deep...tops. I would probably go 1/8" deep.
This is a pretty basic procedure. Rout *counter*-clockwise...I would think one pass would do it. Keep the router flat and the bearing snug to the template.
I don't understand why the instructor would be skeptical.
***Edit: _counter clockwise_ has been inserted in the above text.


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## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

I recently did this and it worked out perfect.
I simply built a temporary square guide, from scrap, that's taller than the cutting board. Build the guide by figuring the distance between the bit and the edge of the router... the guide surrounds the board.
Just secure the cutting board in the middle of the guide and run the router around, inside the square. The outside edge of the router rides on the inside edge of the guide that surrounds the board. 
Hopefully I explained it OK. Mine turned out just right.


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## tribalwind (Dec 7, 2008)

Ohhh that kinda handle, ok i guess thats more of a breadboard . 
well,could still use edge-guide on 3 sides and then clamp a board across the inside as a fence for last cut on handle side...
but the other idea of using 9x11 scrap with template guides still works out fine, i think this is the easiest option of all.


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