# Difference Between 1hp and 3hp



## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

I am new to Wood Working and I am looking at 2 Craftsman Table Saws and one has a 1hp motor and the other has a 3 hp motor. I am going to guess the 3hp saw is the better saw but can you tell me how this affects the process of ripping or crosscuts? Thank you!


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

That's all dependent upon the saws your actually looking at. If they have universal motors, they won't produce 3hp until that split second before the motor melts into a heap of windings and smoke. 

An induction 3hp motor (of which craftsman has none these days) will actually produce 3 hp. 

Show us some links of items your looking at and we'll be able to comment more accurately


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Here are the links to them. The 1st link is for the 1hp and 2nd link is for the 3hp.


http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/5547466810.html
http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/5555862827.html


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

So both of those saws are truly around 1-1.25 hp. That said, they're also both induction motors. The "3hp" saw is a workhorse saw that many on here still use today. The downside of that saw is the fence is mediocre, not an insurmountable issue, but one to be aware of. 

The price looks more than fair, and it's a better saw than anything you could buy new for less than 500 bucks.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

ryan50hrl said:


> So both of those saws are truly around 1-1.25 hp. That said, they're also both induction motors. The "3hp" saw is a workhorse saw that many on here still use today. The downside of that saw is the fence is mediocre, not an insurmountable issue, but one to be aware of.
> 
> The price looks more than fair, and it's a better saw than anything you could buy new for less than 500 bucks.


I was going to update the fence on either of these. My uncle actually has a Delta t2 that I am going to put on either of these. So this saw is better then the rigid around $500?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Clbell71 said:


> I am new to Wood Working and I am looking at 2 Craftsman Table Saws and one has a 1hp motor and the other has a 3 hp motor. I am going to guess the 3hp saw is the better saw but can you tell me how this affects the process of ripping or crosscuts? Thank you!


It depends on what you will be cutting with it. If you only cut plywood and whitewood pine then the 1hp saw would do alright for you. If you are planning to cut hardwoods then the saw should be at least 2hp and probably 3hp if you are going to cut very much of it. Keep in mind either saw will probably last a lifetime so if you can afford the 3hp saw it should do anything you ever want to do. There would be no reason to have to upgrade later on.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Steve Neul said:


> It depends on what you will be cutting with it. If you only cut plywood and whitewood pine then the 1hp saw would do alright for you. If you are planning to cut hardwoods then the saw should be at least 2hp and probably 3hp if you are going to cut very much of it. Keep in mind either saw will probably last a lifetime so if you can afford the 3hp saw it should do anything you ever want to do. There would be no reason to have to upgrade later on.


Thank you. If I were to buy the 1hp model would I be able to upgrade to the 3hp motor in the future?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Clbell71 said:


> Thank you. If I were to buy the 1hp model would I be able to upgrade to the 3hp motor in the future?


You might get away with upgrading to a 2hp motor but I doubt if the saw itself could handle a 3hp motor. I think you would be better off to choose one or the other and if need be at the time of an upgrade sell the smaller saw and get a larger one.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A 3 HP motor will NOT run on 120 V*

That 3 Hp is over optimistic. A true induction 3 HP motor will weigh close to 75 lbs and only run on 220 Volts. That's how you tell what motor is on the saw. Most 10" Craftsman saws with removable motors have about 1 HP and YES, you can upgrade it to a 2 HP IF that's indeed necessary. I had that on a Craftsman 10" saw years back, using a 2 HP Blade motor on 220v. Ir was a beast and ripped through anything I attempted.

For most home shops a true 1 HP motor is all you will need, and IF you use a thin kerf blade, like Diablo 40 tooth, it will be just fine.

The fence is the "heart" of the table saw, and if it's not easily adjusted and lines up parallel to the slots when locked down you will be constantly frustrated with it. So, between the two saws chose the one with the better fence. And YES, you can always upgrade the fence also, but now you have more money invested between the better motor and the better fence, thanb the saw is worth in dollars. However, many folks have done either one or both of those options and turned a used bargain saw into one that will work for ever. Craftsman made a few million tables saws and for the most part they are decent. I still own 3 - 12" motorized models and one newer hybrid. The fence on the hybrid came as a Biesemeyr and it's top grade. The otehr saws have a Delta Unifence, no longer available except on Ebay, but it's also a great fence. :smile3:


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## kroginold (May 2, 2016)

I owned the upgraded version of the 3hp Craftsman about 15 years ago. It was convertible to 220v if I remember correctly and came with solid cast iron wings and Beisemeyer fence. It was a great saw that I sold because of moving. The one you are looking at has plenty of power and will last you many years. The T2 fence will make either saw much better, and you also need to plan on new blades.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Check the miter slots in the older Craftsman, can't remember when it was but for a while they had narrower miter slots than the standard 3/4".


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The "3hp" model you found would be my choice between those two hands down. Add in a delta t2 fence and it's a great saw. 

Now if you throw in the ridgid saw, your really making that a tough choice. The ridgid saw has a riving knife, neither of the saws your looking at do. The ridgid has fairly decent dust collection options, the saws your looking at don't, the ridgid is new with a warranty, those saws won't be. 

Now to be fair, the ridgid is twice the price. 

Will you have to buy the fence from your uncle, or is he giving it to you??


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

ryan50hrl said:


> The "3hp" model you found would be my choice between those two hands down. Add in a delta t2 fence and it's a great saw.
> 
> Now if you throw in the ridgid saw, your really making that a tough choice. The ridgid saw has a riving knife, neither of the saws your looking at do. The ridgid has fairly decent dust collection options, the saws your looking at don't, the ridgid is new with a warranty, those saws won't be.
> 
> ...


For free he has upgraded to Biesmeyer. This may be a stupid question but what is the purpose of a riving knife?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The riving knife is a piece of steel that moves in concert with the blade to keep wood from pinching the blade or twisting into the blade and kicking back. 

Given that your newish in woodworking and have a t2 fence available for free, I'd pick the craftsman "3hp" saw and use the money saved on new blades. A few good blades make all the difference.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

I have and use a similar model to the contractor saw pictured with a 1-1/2 HP (3-HP) motor. Seems powerful enough. I also have a Delta T-square fence on it. The other 2 things I did to it were I added a link belt and a paddle switch. It does everything I need a table saw to do. I also happen to have and own the other saw as well. It is a restoration project. I believe the extensions on that are 10" inches not 12". Something to consider. Whether either, neither or both are worth the asking price that is a determination I couldn't make for another. The range of asking prices for those 113 saws is as varied as the saws. It ranges from $50.00 for a really good one to $500 or even $600 for something that can be considered junk. What you should pay is up to you. If you are looking for a saw today maybe you pay a bit of a premium, if you have some time maybe you can find a good one for a better price. I expect if you cut something with it, check the arbor bearings (actually take the belt off and check the bearings for play) and make sure the raise lower and tilt all work, that is about the limit you can do in a limited time. Make sure you actually look inside the saw to make sure it isn't all rusted out although I am not sure that is a real problem in Tucson.

Anyway, the best of luck to you in your search.


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## kroginold (May 2, 2016)

If you think about going with the new Ridgid hybrid, just make sure you get the upgraded trunnion. Most now in stores do have the new trunnions, but you do need to be aware of this. Otherwise it is a good saw for the price. The riving knife is a good feature, dust collection is good and it can be converted to 220v. It also comes with a very good mobile base. I would still upgrade with the T2 fence you have available, and either Freud Diablo or Irwin Marples blade. I never even bothered to install the blade the came with the saw.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

FrankC said:


> Check the miter slots in the older Craftsman, can't remember when it was but for a while they had narrower miter slots than the standard 3/4".


The narrow slots were on a cheaper saw.

George


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

That "3hp" claim is marketing, not fact. A true 3hp motor is what comes on a Unisaw, PM66, Grizzly G0690, etc., and requires 220v operation. The nameplate on the Craftsman "3hp" saw will say 1.5hp. It's basically the same motor as most Craftsman 1hp motors, but has an extra capacitor that might give it a little extra oomph. 

Under the hood, most of those Emerson made saws are pretty similar. In this case I like the "3hp" model better. 

Since you have a good aftermarket fence to add, go with whichever is in the best shape. 

Like this one - http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/tls/5565823318.html
Or this one - http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/5533931147.html


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

notskot said:


> That "3hp" claim is marketing, not fact. A true 3hp motor is what comes on a Unisaw, PM66, Grizzly G0690, etc., and requires 220v operation. The nameplate on the Craftsman "3hp" saw will say 1.5hp. It's basically the same motor as most Craftsman 1hp motors, but has an extra capacitor that might give it a little extra oomph.
> 
> Under the hood, most of those Emerson made saws are pretty similar. In this case I like the "3hp" model better.
> 
> ...


Is the fence on that craftsman any good?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It's not bad. I'd take the delta fence first though. 

That jet saw looks like a decent deal too.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

If it was me, I would try to get the Craftsman saw for $175 or $200. Sell the fence for $200 (minus the $50 shipping) on eBay and use your uncles T-square fence.


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

subroc said:


> If it was me, I would try to get the Craftsman saw for $175 or $200. Sell the fence for $200 (minus the $50 shipping) on eBay and use your uncles T-square fence.


Yep...the Delta T2 fence is better IMO, but that aluminum Exacta-Rip Craftsman fence is decent. You can keep it or sell it. 

If you were to spring for that Jet, I'd keep the Jet Xacta fence.

Here's another Cman with the Alignarip fence....asking price is too high, but is worth a look and maybe an offer. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/5520820086.html

Another older Cman with grated cast wings, "1.5hp" motor, metal wheels...priced right at $125: http://prescott.craigslist.org/tls/5500512654.html

If you want to get off cheap, this Ohio Forge is essentially the same saw as the Griz G1022....came from the same factory as the older Jets, older PM, older Bridgewood, Woodtek, Omega, AFF, etc....all made by Mao Shan in Taiwan in the late 80s through much of the 90's. Many of the parts are interchangeable. The fence is lame, but you have the answer for that.
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/5509571105.html

This Ridgid is a contender too...about the same saw as the Emerson made Craftsman saws: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/tls/5505067637.html


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

notskot said:


> ...
> 
> Like this one - http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/tls/5565823318.html
> Or this one - http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/5533931147.html





Clbell71 said:


> Is the fence on that craftsman any good?



It is fine.

That Craftsman saw is the same model as the one I have. I like the design of the T-square and it was worth it for me to change over. I paid $100 for my t-square set-up and sold the align-a-rip for $175 on ebay. That Craftsman fence is a 24/24 and a 1 piece front rail. There is an image of a 315 saw in one of the other links with the front rail that is 2 piece. I expect the 1 piece is a better set-up. That was designed to be used with 24 inches on each side of the blade. Nothing stopping you from using it 18/30 or 12/36 for that matter. If you strike a good deal on the saw and since you have the T-square fence availability, you could sell the align-a-rip and effectively end up with the saw for nothing or at least less than $100.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

What do you guys know about this 12 inch Motorized Craftsman


http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/tls/5569163541.html


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I wouldn't choose a 12 inch saw if I didn't need one as there are far more and less expensive blade options on 10 inch saws.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Thanks but take the blade out of the picture how does this saw stack up with the other Craftsmans listed in this thread again thank you so much for your help and knowledge Ryan!


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Virtually the same as the 10 inch version that looks like it. Although this one has steel stamped wings vs the cast iron wings that most prefer.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Thanks again


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Not so ...*



ryan50hrl said:


> I wouldn't choose a 12 inch saw if I didn't need one as there are far more and less expensive blade options on 10 inch saws.


The 12" saw referenced is a good saw, I have 3 of them in actual use. The arbor is 5/8" so any 10" blade will work. The $100.00 price is not bad either. The only issue is the motor is not easily repaired or replaced. The fence looks decent. Probably a decent starter saw. :smile3:


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Clbell71 said:


> Thanks but take the blade out of the picture how does this saw stack up with the other Craftsmans listed in this thread again thank you so much for your help and knowledge Ryan!


buy the ridgid 2424. the fence rails can be slid to the right to easily provide 36" of rip capacity. and the OEM fence system is as reliable as a delta t2.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

*3 hp lol !!!*

The 3 hp rating is marketing bs. A 3 hp (or 1.5) hp motors will not run, or have a hard time running on 110 volt/15 amp circuits.

It's a shame companies have to do that. I guess when someone who doesn't know better, and sees a 3 hp saw for the same price as a 1 hp saw, they will buy the 3 hp. Other companies follow, with the deceptive rating, to keep competitive. Dewalt even does it. My 1980's Dewalt 7790 saw says 3.5 hp. I think it draws 17 amps. More like a 1 1/2 hp motor.

Go here to find the real hp, based on volts and amps.

https://www.easycalculation.com/unit-conversion/amps-to-hp-calculator.php

I think I would buy the Jet (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/5533931147.html )
I have the same Jet Exacta fence on my Unisaw. Great fence!
The jet also has a cast iron wing, and router table extension. Oh yeah, then there is the mobile base.
Plus it looks real clean.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Any reviews on this saw listed below. I have sold my old saw and I buying a saw this weekend. 


http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/tls/5578227507.html


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Clbell71 said:


> Any reviews on this saw listed below. I have sold my old saw and I buying a saw this weekend.
> 
> 
> http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/tls/5578227507.html


Good deals can be had.

I expect you will be happy with that saw especially considering it has a t-square fence and a 1.5 hp motor. A simple search of the internet illustrated that many of those saws also have extended tables so I will be surprised if that one doesn't. When you pick it up, give us a report.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

subroc said:


> Good deals can be had.
> 
> I expect you will be happy with that saw especially considering it has a t-square fence and a 1.5 hp motor. A simple search of the internet illustrated that many of those saws also have extended tables so I will be surprised if that one doesn't. When you pick it up, give us a report.


I am thinking its the Powermatic 63.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Clbell71 said:


> I am thinking its the Powermatic 63.


So, you believe it has the Vega fence? Or, did the seller tell you that?


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

subroc said:


> So, you believe it has the Vega fence? Or, did the seller tell you that?


I don't know I am just guessing by looking at the pictures. He is out of town until Thursday so I have to wait for more pictures. So I thought I would ask the board brothers to see if the could spot what model this saw is.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Clbell71 said:


> I don't know I am just guessing by looking at the pictures. He is out of town until Thursday so I have to wait for more pictures. So I thought I would ask the board brothers to see if the could spot what model this saw is.


I just did a cursory search of the internet.

I saw some examples of the front plate with the silver top with both fences as well as being called 63, 64, and 64A. There was an image that showed that saw with a fence that looked like some kind of align-a-rip. After looking at all the images, I wouldn't be surprised if that saw came with optional fences. You order it with the one you want.

I couldn't venture a guess.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

subroc said:


> I just did a cursory search of the internet.
> 
> I saw some examples of the front plate with the silver top with both fences as well as being called 63, 64, and 64A. There was an image that showed that saw with a fence that looked like some kind of align-a-rip. After looking at all the images, I wouldn't be surprised if that saw came with optional fences. You order it with the one you want.
> 
> I couldn't venture a guess.


Yeah I did see the same thing as you. Do you think its a steal at $150?


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Clbell71 said:


> Yeah I did see the same thing as you. Do you think its a steal at $150?


Far be it for me to decide what is a "steal" or even a good deal for another. I have a bit of a skewed view of the whole buying and selling on Craigslist thing. I have bought and parted out a handful of saws this year, netting me a complete spare saw, 3 t-square fences and $100.00 for my effort. I paid $85.00 for my saw and $50.00 for my spare and sold the fences for $175.00 and $199.00 respectively.

Those Artisan saws, I believe sold for a lot of money for what I consider a contractor saw. I believe they were over $1000.00 new. If you check that saw and the bearings and the motor are good and it has a good fence on it, in my view, $150.00 would be a bargain.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Okay guys here is the Powermatic 64 that I bought for $150.00 and $30.00 in cash and Inn and Out Burger. LOL. I cant believe I got this deal. I feel like I hit the lotto.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

That will be a great saw for you. I'd change the belt and make sure you have good blades!!


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

ryan50hrl said:


> That will be a great saw for you. I'd change the belt and make sure you have good blades!!


What kind of Belt do you recommend? I thought the link style belt was good.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I've never used a link belt ...*

But If you get a good quality 4L*** prefix drive belt, you should be fine. Auto parts type V belts have a different profile, so they don't work well for "fractional" HP motors, and that includes up to 2 HP. 

That saw is a "right tilt" and it shouldn't be an issue unless you want to make bevel cuts, in which case the fence will need to be located on the left of the blade. For all other 90 degree rips it's fine to have the fence on the right of the blade. That may be the reason it was "reasonably" priced...?

I have a 12" Powermatic 5 Hp tablesaw and it's a great machine. I haven't used it in a few years, so it is now truly a "table" saw ... :surprise2: more of a table than a saw.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Can you steer me in the right direction of good belt. Maybe like a brand or type. I am new to the Belt Drive Saws.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

It looks like a link belt. If it is I wouldn't change it.

That is a fine saw for some reasonable money.

Well done!


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

subroc said:


> It looks like a link belt. If it is I wouldn't change it.
> 
> That is a fine saw for some reasonable money.
> 
> Well done!



Good catch, I'd agree you probably don't need to change the belt since it already has a link belt. They don't tend to take a set like standard belts do. 

Unless your getting vibration or the motors jumping around while rubbing, leave the belt alone for now.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Clbell71 said:


> Can you steer me in the right direction of good belt. Maybe like a brand or type. I am new to the Belt Drive Saws.



If you do ever need a new belt, link belt is available from rockler, woodcraft, or even from harbor freight.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

As far as the link belt is concerned, I don't know if one is better or not. I do know the saw vibrates less with the link belt, it passes the penny test (I didn't have a nickle) and it starts different. When starting the saw with the link belt it seems like the saw just starts and progressively gets to speed. With the V-belt it appeared like the motor had to overcome some resistance at the initial moment of start up. Then again, maybe it is all in my imagination.

BTW, what blade is in that saw?


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

I will find out the Morning when I pick it up. From one picture one side looks red(Freud) then form another picture it looks like a normal blade.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Are these CMT Orange Blades any good?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Clbell71 said:


> Are these CMT Orange Blades any good?



Not my first choice. Freud is a great value for what you are getting. They're always my first choice.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Clbell71 said:


> Are these CMT Orange Blades any good?



Is there a reason you're considering cmt?


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

No I just saw them when I was looking up 10 inch Combination Blades. I am going to go with a Freud


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Is your plan to go with one general use blade, or multiple blades for multiple uses?


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

ryan50hrl said:


> Is your plan to go with one general use blade, or multiple blades for multiple uses?


My ultimate goal is to have 1 rip, 1 crosscut and 1 combo. But for know I am going to start with the combo.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

That miter gauge looks like some kind of upgrade. If it is don't forget to ask for the original.

Also, ask if it comes with any spare blades.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

subroc said:


> That miter gauge looks like some kind of upgrade. If it is don't forget to ask for the original.
> 
> Also, ask if it comes with any spare blades.


Good thinking I will ask about both.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

I don't know what anything is worth, but some want a lot of money for an artisan saw. These are from my local Craigslist.

$1000.00 artisan

$500.00 artisan


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> That saw is a "right tilt" and it shouldn't be an issue unless you want to make bevel cuts, in which case the fence will need to be located on the left of the blade.


I make bevel rip cuts on my rt Uni all the time with no problem.


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

subroc said:


> I don't know what anything is worth, but some want a lot of money for an artisan saw. These are from my local Craigslist.
> 
> $1000.00 artisan
> 
> $500.00 artisan


It's worth noting that both have been for sale for quite some time. The $500 version isn't a bad deal. $1000 is just nuts IMO.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Clbell71 said:


> I will find out the Morning when I pick it up. From one picture one side looks red(Freud) then form another picture it looks like a normal blade.



So did you get it??


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

I got it all set up yesterday. He had the original Miter Gauge and Manuals. It came with 2 Freud Diablo blades(24 tooth Rip Blade and 50 Tooth Combination Blade) It also came with a mobile base but I need to replace the casters. Here is a picture of the saw set up in my workshop.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Congrats!!


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Nice!

Huge work surface. Out feed right there. Nice fence. A router set-up. 

You did good!


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Man going from the cheap $80 craftsman jobsite saw to this is crazy. Its like cutting warm butter with a light saber.... How do you recommend cleaning the cast iron top?


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

That's really a nice deal. Clean those blades with something like 409 and an old toothbrush and see how they cut.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Clbell71 said:


> Man going from the cheap $80 craftsman jobsite saw to this is crazy. Its like cutting warm butter with a light saber.... *How do you recommend cleaning the cast iron top?*



I only use a scrubbie (scotch-brite). Others will suggest sanding. I would not be among that group. A green scrubbie, red or brown, some kind of oil, I use WD40 because it is always at hand and some elbow grease. A systematic approach and some diligence and in short period of time it will be fine.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

subroc said:


> I only use a scrubbie (scotch-brite). Others will suggest sanding. I would not be among that group. A green scrubbie, red or brown, some kind of oil, I use WD40 because it is always at hand and some elbow grease. A systematic approach and some diligence and in short period of time it will be fine.


I used some WD-40 and some scotch brite scrubbies to clean the top and it looks much better but is there anything else to help clean the rust off the top? Here is the most recent picture


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

Some would cringe, but I often use WD40 and 150 grit sandpaper with my ROS, then work my way up the grits as far as you want to go. 

Then I treat with a light coat of Boeshield T9 dried and buffed, then add a coat or two of paste wax. All my cast surfaces look pretty good...the newest is 8 years old, the oldest is 15 years.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Here is a picture of my old saw and the extension top/ fence I built. Talk about a major upgrade.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Some use "Naval Jelly" as a rust remover. When checking Amazon virtually all of the brands get good ratings.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

I am having a few issues and was hoping to get some feedback from you guys. 


1st: Does anybody ever have a problem with there saw blade(Right Side of the blade) rubbing on the side of the zero clearance insert? How would you try to fix that? Could you put a washer in between the blade and the Arbor Flange? I am making a new Zero Clearance Insert but the Blade does not go down far enough to raise the blade through the new Insert. Any Ideas?


2nd: I seem to be having an issue with the raising handwheel. It goes up and down but it seems like it should be smoother. What kind of lubricant should I put on it?


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## gj13us (Apr 19, 2016)

Clbell71 said:


> 2nd: I seem to be having an issue with the raising handwheel. It goes up and down but it seems like it should be smoother. What kind of lubricant should I put on it?


Sawdust built up on the gear causes this problem on my saw.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

gj13us said:


> Sawdust built up on the gear causes this problem on my saw.


So hit with my air compressor and grease/WD-40? How do you clean that?


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

This is the first project that I completed on my new saw.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Clbell71 said:


> I am having a few issues and was hoping to get some feedback from you guys.
> 
> 
> 1st: Does anybody ever have a problem with there saw blade(Right Side of the blade) rubbing on the side of the zero clearance insert? How would you try to fix that? Could you put a washer in between the blade and the Arbor Flange? I am making a new Zero Clearance Insert but the Blade does not go down far enough to raise the blade through the new Insert. Any Ideas?
> ...


When making the initial cut through the new zero clearance insert, start with a smaller blade, raise it as far as it will go, then replace with the bigger blade.The cut with the smaller blade should allow the bigger blade to clear before it's raised.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Alchymist said:


> When making the initial cut through the new zero clearance insert, start with a smaller blade, raise it as far as it will go, then replace with the bigger blade.The cut with the smaller blade should allow the bigger blade to clear before it's raised.


Thank you I will take my 7 1/2 circular saw blade to make the initial cut through the insert. Any idea about the blade rubbing against the insert? Is it okay to put a washer in between the blade the arbor flange?


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Clbell71 said:


> 1st: Does anybody ever have a problem with there saw blade(Right Side of the blade) rubbing on the side of the zero clearance insert? How would you try to fix that? Could you put a washer in between the blade and the Arbor Flange?...


First, see if there is any fastener play that will allow the insert to to move over just a bit. Barring that, you could buy a thinner blade. You could just take a file and take a pass or 2 on the right side. Check it, do it again.

The bade is designed to sit firmly between the two flange faces of the arbor and the flange washer. In no way would I recommend any washer for this particular thing.



Clbell71 said:


> ...I am making a new Zero Clearance Insert but the Blade does not go down far enough to raise the blade through the new Insert. Any Ideas?...


Yes. Add a couple washers or spacers under the new insert. Make sure it is tight and aligned. Raise the blade just enough to give you the clearance to install it properly. Install it properly and complete the blade raising process.



Clbell71 said:


> ...2nd: I seem to be having an issue with the raising handwheel. It goes up and down but it seems like it should be smoother. What kind of lubricant should I put on it?


Some kind of dry lubricant is what I use. I am currently using some graphite spray. Any oil based product will attract sawdust and could exacerbate the problem. I watched a video on YouTube where the guy made a wax and graphite mixture. I expect there are lots of good solutions.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

subroc said:


> First, see if there is any fastener play that will allow the insert to to move over just a bit. Barring that, you could buy a thinner blade. You could just take a file and take a pass or 2 on the right side. Check it, do it again.
> 
> The bade is designed to sit firmly between the two flange faces of the arbor and the flange washer. In no way would I recommend any washer for this particular thing.




I understand what you are saying but would this be okay to put in between the blade and Arbor Flange? I would think that this is a specific Blade Bushing. 


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1-in-x-5-8-in-Saw-Blade-Bushing-D58***/205388112


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Clbell71 said:


> I understand what you are saying but would this be okay to put in between the blade and Arbor Flange? I would think that this is a specific Blade Bushing.
> 
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1-in-x-5-8-in-Saw-Blade-Bushing-D58***/205388112


There are many ways to skin a cat. I expect you can find a solution to your problem. I offered a suggestion. Feel free to use it, dismiss it or even pooh pooh it, makes no difference to me. I won't be offended.

I would not use that washer to solve the alignment problem. That washer is designed to allow use of a saw blade with a 1" hole on a saw with a 5/8 arbor. Further, from the posting it looks to be .80" or is it .07" that is 800/1000. That is 4/5". I expect it is a misprint to be sure and it is probably 0.080. Either way, is that how much you need to move your blade over? Without knowing the exact amount, you are just throwing a dart at the moon.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

OK, let’s take this to its obvious conclusion.

This is a flanged washer from a Craftsman Table Saw. I expect yours is similar. It has a 2” OD, a 5/8” hole and ¼” of machined surface area around the OD to press on the blade. There is a similar surface on the arbor. The blade gets sandwiched between the two. Nuff’ said. When looking at the rest of it you can see that the area that isn’t machined to press against the blade is 1-1/2” and it tapers to the 5/8 hole. When using the washer in its correct intended use, it aligns the blade with a 1” hole and the flanged washer performs as intended. No harm, no foul. In your question you ask if you can use it move the blade over. Well, you would put this washer on the side with the arbor. How far in the tapered area will it sit? An unknown. When you put your $60.00 saw blade on next and then the flanged washer and then the arbor nut as you tighten the arbor nut the flanged washer is pushing on the blade without the support arbor flange but it is against the washer that is of different face height. There is a distinct possibility that the flanged washer could deform that $60.00 blade. Still we don’t know exactly how far the blade was moved with the insertion of the washer into the tapered surface of the arbor.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

subroc said:


> There are many ways to skin a cat. I expect you can find a solution to your problem. I offered a suggestion. Feel free to use it, dismiss it or even pooh pooh it, makes no difference to me. I won't be offended.
> 
> I would not use that washer to solve the alignment problem. That washer is designed to allow use of a saw blade with a 1" hole on a saw with a 5/8 arbor. Further, from the posting it looks to be .80" or is it .07" that is 800/1000. That is 4/5". I expect it is a misprint to be sure and it is probably 0.080. Either way, is that how much you need to move your blade over? Without knowing the exact amount, you are just throwing a dart at the moon.


Hey man I really appreciate the advice. It makes total sense to me.


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## Clbell71 (May 2, 2016)

Here is the new insert I made. I used a router to cut out the kerf so the blade would not rub.


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