# Garden Shed Construction



## Toolman2 (Jun 15, 2010)

I'm in the process of building a garden shed. It's 8' x 16' and I want to know a good way to design the rafters. The back wall (16') is about 6" away from the fence. I would also like to know what you all think about which way the roof should go, i.e. pitch on the short length or the long length.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.:icon_smile:


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

You want the slope of the roof to fall on the 16' sides.The other way would just look weird.Why would you want a 16' gable on a 8' wide shed?That is if you want a typical roof with gable ends.You coud do a dormer roof but the framing would be more involved.I would stick with a 6/12 pitch.
Some home center sell premade trusses for sheds and this would be a standard size.Saves a lot of time and they are inexpensive.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It may depend on where you want the entry. To me it makes more sense to run a center rib board (2x8 or 2x10) the 8', and your rafters would be about 8'. It would be simple to make birdsmouth ends on the rafters. You might check the codes in your area for a required setback from the property line. That's what I used when I built my shed.
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Here is a free plan for a suggested construction plan that you might use just as a reference.
http://www.just-sheds.com/1201f.pdf


















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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

Cabinetman:Your stating one thing and your pic is showing what I stated which is the opposite?Either way will work .I just think it is more aestheticaly pleasing to have the ridge run the length like in your picture.For the time it takes to set a ridge board ,joists and rafters those premade shed trusses look pretty appealing.Although,I still build my own but I am a contractor and usually have leftovers from jobs.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mako1 said:


> Cabinetman:Your stating one thing and your pic is showing what I stated which is the opposite?Either way will work .I just think it is more aestheticaly pleasing to have the ridge run the length like in your picture.For the time it takes to set a ridge board ,joists and rafters those premade shed trusses look pretty appealing.Although,I still build my own but I am a contractor and usually have leftovers from jobs.


It can be done either way. I would think how the entry is oriented which way would look best, that's his decision. It sounds like the OP is orientating the 16' along the back edge of the property, and the view from the front is the 16' length. He could be setting the entry at one end for all we know...he didn't say.


















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## Toolman2 (Jun 15, 2010)

Cabinet man: I like the idea of running the ridge along the 8' section. Most of the wood I'm using to build it is left over wood from other projects and wood given to me. On that particular side of our yard, I don't have to worry about any setbacks, only in the front and back property lines. The only other restriction is that it can't be more than 18' high (no problem there). My wife suggested that I might want to consider just raising the back wall above the 8' height and just using a single slant roof to the front (16' portion). I can easily get 10 or 12' sections of metal roofing that'll do the trick.

I would like to start building the rafters and roof support this weekend, so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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## Deanr (Jul 29, 2011)

I built an 8 x 12 shed several years ago and used the center ridge instead of trusses. I was happy with how it turned out. My ridge board (2x8) runs the 12' Length. 

I built the walls first and stood them up. ( used full 8' 2x4) Then I tacked a plywood support board on each end with a notch for the ridge. (This determines your pitch) Then raised the ridge up into the slots. I then cut the rafters, with bird mouths, and screwed them from my ridge to my walls.
Using this method I wouldn't precut the rafters before placing the ridge board.

If I remember I did all myself except maybe raising the walls.
I would design at least 12" overhang on you roof. 
I fastened purlins to my rafters and screwed the roof to them. 
I used 4x8 sheets of hardie board siding.
An extra wide door is a plus. Mine is 42 or 48.
I put two windows in because I had them lying around. If I did it again I wouldn't put any windows in.


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## Toolman2 (Jun 15, 2010)

I'm going to put windows in as I'll have them when I replace them on the house (another pending project). I do plan on having at least a 12" overhang and plan on building some sort of overhangs on the gable ends. I already have water nearby, so I'll plumb that in as well as I found a nice sink earlier this year on trash day.

:hammer:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Toolman2 said:


> I'm going to put windows in as I'll have them when I replace them on the house (another pending project). I do plan on having at least a 12" overhang and plan on building some sort of overhangs on the gable ends. I already have water nearby, so I'll plumb that in as well as I found a nice sink earlier this year on trash day.
> 
> :hammer:


I'm thinking that you are in a different zone for hurricanes than me. But, here, short overhangs don't give uplift winds a good grab. For my roof, I used a product called Ondura, that I got at Lowes. It's been up about 9 years and not one problem, and no leaks.








 







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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Toolman2 said:


> snip My wife suggested that I might want to consider just raising the back wall above the 8' height and just using a single slant roof to the front (16' portion). I can easily get 10 or 12' sections of metal roofing that'll do the trick.
> 
> I would like to start building the rafters and roof support this weekend, so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


If your door is in the 16' side it may be better to slant the roof to the back unless you plan on putting a gutter on it. You wouldn't necessarily need an 8' high wall on the low side so front would not have to be over 9' high.


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## Toolman2 (Jun 15, 2010)

I don't want it slanting to the back because I don't want the water to drain into the neighbors yard. The back wall is about 6" from the 6' privacy fence and there's a chain link fence behind that, both of them are ours.

The front of the shed (16') is where I want to put the windows. That's also where I'll put the sink.

Also, what do you all think about storage options? I'm thinking about adding a small addition to the shed (about 4'x3') for the lawn mower, generator, power washer, and gas cans because I don't want those stinking up the main shed.

Thanks


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I built a 10 x 12 shed in 2000. 120 square feet is the limit the HOA would approve. There are set backs from the property lines that the city erequires so I moved mine 4 feet from the fence on two sides. I matched the roof pitch to the house which is 5/12. Another requirement is that the bottom of the roof (where a gutter would be attached) has to be lower than the existing house. I was able to build the shed with a slightly less than 8 foot wall height so the roof fit that requirement.

For rafters, I made trusses. The ridge line runs the length of the twelve foot side. When I built the trusses, I raised the center section slightly to allow more head room inside. I used 1/2 inch plywood for the truss plates and a LOT of glue and staples.

So far it has held up through two hurricanes. Not a single shingle has gone missing. I cant say that for our house. Hurricane Ike made quiet a mess of our house anfter several sections of shingle were torn away...and then the rain came in! :-( The insurance adjuster even made a comment about the shed. Man, that thing didn't have any damage at all.


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## cudaman (Aug 31, 2014)

*Woodworking tricks of the trade*



Toolman2 said:


> I'm in the process of building a garden shed. It's 8' x 16' and I want to know a good way to design the rafters. The back wall (16') is about 6" away from the fence. I would also like to know what you all think about which way the roof should go, i.e. pitch on the short length or the long length.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.:icon_smile:


More woodworking tricks than you could possibly 
use in a lifetime!!!!

http://shed_plans_and_design.gr8.com


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## cudaman (Aug 31, 2014)

More woodworking tricks than you could possibly 
use in a lifetime!!!!

http://shed_plans_and_design.gr8.com


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## 03svtsnakevert (Oct 16, 2013)

cudaman said:


> More woodworking tricks than you could possibly
> use in a lifetime!!!!
> 
> http://shed_plans_and_design.gr8.com



Link doesn't work


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