# Table Saw with a Circular Saw, with riving knife



## KADAMBI (May 19, 2015)

I would mention only a few distinct features of my build. Saw is mounted from top, with base plate resting on top, with appropriate rabitting. This would provide greater depth of cut. 

2. Saw table sits on a box, which functions as dust collector,y shop vac is connected at rear to create vacuum inside the box, ensuring only fine floating dust gets into shop vac dust bag. 

3. Table top is hinged to facilitate depth adjustment and emptying dust from box. 

4. Cross cut sled would slide on the two sides of table top, which are perfectly parallel to blade and sled has a front fence to feed at right angle or other angles and there is no traditional fence parallel to blade. 

5. Stop plunger and start/stop switch is handy in front side of box. Box itself mounted on a workmate for now. 

6. I have laminated the top, with 8mm HDF floor laminate.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*very interesting concept*

Mounting the saw in the top is good. It does look like there is another top that covers it however, providing a zero clearance kerf, a good idea. There is way too much gap around the blade without a separate cover top to be safe. 

I don't see any fence as yet. What's your plan for a fence. Please do not use the saw "freehand" without a fence. It's just not safe. Also what about miter slots? You could use T track aluminum for them. 

It looks like you have the switch safely mounted to the side and convenient to reach. 

One of the better circ saw conversions into a table saw designs I've seen. There is another thread also on this concept.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> Mounting the saw in the top is good. .


Only because he hogged out extra material for the motor to have some place to go as the blade depth is increased to max. Otherwise the motor would have hit the plywood before being able to come to full depth of cut.

Most circular saws at least...

Me personally - No WAY that I would be jacking a circular saw blade to near max like that and using it as a tablesaw. :no:

If you 'need' the blade that high to cut what you need to cut - You 'need' a real tablesaw and not a circular mounted upside down... 



I saw a guy freehand some stuff today that made me nervous. (I got out of the way) Freehanding the material was not an issue for me - It was the 'size' of his material. WAY to small to be doing that sort of stuff with in MY opinion. He pulled off his cuts with no issues or accidents but I would not have attempted such with that small of a workpiece. 

Freehanding with a bigger piece gives you more room to keep your digits well away from the blade in my experience. :yes:


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

So how'd you fabricate the riving knife? I'm thinking that that circular saw setup could make a pretty bloody good track saw with a few extra additions


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## KADAMBI (May 19, 2015)

AEG 7 1/4" circular saw (CS-66) has a built in riving knife, which moves in sync with blade depth. Can be removed for any plunge cut, in hand held mode. My first photo shows the pocket to allow saw to plunge full depth, in the large pocket to accommodate the motor.


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## KADAMBI (May 19, 2015)

@ woodnthings.. In my build the pocket I cut on table top, also allows the motor not to obstruct full depth adjustment. You have rightly said, the motor and set up could be frightening, frankly I have not tried on solid lumber but greater cutting capacity comes handy whenever I did 3 pieces of 3\4" pieces of plywood in one go by double taping all pieces together firmly.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

KADAMBI said:


> AEG 7 1/4" circular saw (CS-66) has a built in riving knife, which moves in sync with blade depth. Can be removed for any plunge cut, in hand held mode. My first photo shows the pocket to allow saw to plunge full depth, in the large pocket to accommodate the motor.


That is neat! :thumbsup: Never seen a circular saw with one of those before.


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

I like your ingenuity but imagine you could have found a used table saw on craigslist or similar for the money you have invested there.


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## asevereid (Apr 15, 2012)

mako1 said:


> I like your ingenuity but imagine you could have found a used table saw on craigslist or similar for the money you have invested there.


Not sure he has Craigslist in Bangalore?


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## KADAMBI (May 19, 2015)

asevereid said:


> Not sure he has Craigslist in Bangalore?




You are right, no Craigslist here. But we do have classifieds in local news papers but table saws are used in lumber yards and they rarely junk it and keep reconditioning them. Job site 10" saws are only Bosch, Makita and Metabo. And working surface is too small for any sheet goods work and one has to build a larger table around it. So for an adventurous guy here, circular saw into Table saw is a ready easier option. AEG (GERMAN) circular saw is preferred as it has roving knife. This costs US$120/- here. Cheaper chinese ones costs just US$40/-


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

KADAMBI said:


> AEG (GERMAN) circular saw is preferred as it has roving knife. This costs US$120/- here. Cheaper chinese ones costs just US$40/-


Really now, that cheap? i wonder if they import to the states...


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

KADAMBI said:


> You are right, no Craigslist here. But we do have classifieds in local news papers but table saws are used in lumber yards and they rarely junk it and keep reconditioning them. Job site 10" saws are only Bosch, Makita and Metabo.* And working surface is too small for any sheet goods work and one has to build a larger table around it. So for an adventurous guy here, circular saw into Table saw is a ready easier option.* AEG (GERMAN) circular saw is preferred as it has roving knife. This costs US$120/- here. Cheaper chinese ones costs just US$40/-


 
You definitely got your thinking straight here in my opinion.

A saw without a proper table is not much worth having. (especially if the small saw with no table has a crappy fence)


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## MattS (Feb 17, 2010)

With a well built sled this looks like it would be a high utility budget build - nicely executed! I haven't seen a circular saw with a built in riving knife before, that is beyond slick.

Just a thought - you might want to cut a few small vents in the front of the box to allow some air cross-flow, since the small volume of air permitted through a zero-clearance surface might kill your shop vac over time.


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## Powell (Aug 17, 2015)

mako1 said:


> I like your ingenuity but imagine you could have found a used table saw on craigslist or similar for the money you have invested there.


I wouldn't spend any less than 700bucks on a new table saw. For a good quality used saw I'd say around 350-400. If you are experienced in carpentry/joinery there is a notable difference. Not just in quality of machinery but also when it comes to your own safety. Cheap flinsy powertools can be extremely dangerous.


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## KADAMBI (May 19, 2015)

MattS said:


> With a well built sled this looks like it would be a high utility budget build - nicely executed! I haven't seen a circular saw with a built in riving knife before, that is beyond slick.
> 
> Just a thought - you might want to cut a few small vents in the front of the box to allow some air cross-flow, since the small volume of air permitted through a zero-clearance surface might kill your shop vac over time.




MattS, I have provided two 1" dia holes in the front side, positioned in front of both sides of motor, for keeping it cool. Glad you observed the need for cross ventilation.


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## MattS (Feb 17, 2010)

KADAMBI said:


> MattS, I have provided two 1" dia holes in the front side, positioned in front of both sides of motor, for keeping it cool. Glad you observed the need for cross ventilation.


Good stuff :thumbsup:


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## WillyDC (26 d ago)

Oneal-Woodworking said:


> Only because he hogged out extra material for the motor to have some place to go as the blade depth is increased to max. Otherwise the motor would have hit the plywood before being able to come to full depth of cut. Most circular saws at least... Me personally - No WAY that I would be jacking a circular saw blade to near max like that and using it as a tablesaw. 🇳🇴 If you 'need' the blade that high to cut what you need to cut - You 'need' a real tablesaw and not a circular mounted upside down... I saw a guy freehand some stuff today that made me nervous. (I got out of the way) Freehanding the material was not an issue for me - It was the 'size' of his material. WAY to small to be doing that sort of stuff with in MY opinion. He pulled off his cuts with no issues or accidents but I would not have attempted such with that small of a workpiece. Freehanding with a bigger piece gives you more room to keep your digits well away from the blade in my experience. :yes:


 Hi Oneal, I know this is reviving a very old post, but is there some reason that using a circular saw at full extension in this way is particularly dangerous? Assuming the use of a riving knife and fence and that the saw is very firmly fastened to the table. It's a project I'm interested in and want to consider every safety concern. Thank you!


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

WillyDC said:


> Hi Oneal, I know this is reviving a very old post, but is there some reason that using a circular saw at full extension in this way is particularly dangerous? Assuming the use of a riving knife and fence and that the saw is very firmly fastened to the table. It's a project I'm interested in and want to consider every safety concern. Thank you!


Just don't do it. If you make a bad table, you might break a glass. If you make a bad tablesaw, you can loose a hand.

Lots of parts means lots of ways to mess up the design or construction


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

WillyDC said:


> Hi Oneal, I know this is reviving a very old post


Welcome to the forum.

Oneal-Woodworking is no longer active here. I think you are better off getting a used table saw.


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