# Nervous using Table Saw



## Clive Driscoll (Mar 19, 2009)

Hey everyone, I'm still pretty new to this hobby and this forum but I've gotten some great advice and ideas over the last couple months. 

I was doing some basic rip cuts on my Table Saw the last few days (my table saw that I've hardly used) and was noticing that I wasn't getting perfectly straight rips. I'm 95% sure the reason is that the wood is "bouncing" slightly off my fence because I'm not putting enough pressure on the wood with my hands. The reason I think is that I get really nervous with my hands even anywhere close to the blade (even 6" away).... I use a pushstick but that doesn't totally keep the presure of the wood right up against the fence. I went to Rockler and bought a featherboard but it didn't fit my saw ( I have a craftsman saw with a "non standard" miter slot) ....

So I guess I'm just looking for general advice? Should I look into some kind of featherboards (that will fit my Craftsman)? Some other kind of "helper" I can buy for it?

One interesting point is that I took off the blade guard because I ended up spending way more time adjusting and readjusting it so that when the wood was thru the blade it wouldnt get stuck on the blade guard assembly - very frustrating. Seems like everytime I had it perfect, a few cuts later the thing would be off and my wood woudlnt get thru that assembly.

Thanks for any general advice on using my tablesaw safely and still getting nice accurate rips.


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## Cookn (May 26, 2008)

It's perfectly alright to be nervous around the saw, it means that you are paying attention. When I rip what works for me is not how tight I hold the wood but HOW I hold the wood. If I'm ripping a full sheet or a 1x6 it doesn't matter, my area of focus isn't the blade it's the fence and how I have to hold that piece of wood to keep it firmly tight to the fence. The blade is going to cut the wood if it's sharp and it's turning, that's all it has to do and that's all it can do. I have to push the wood through to get a straight cut. I hold the rearmost outside corner of anything getting ripped, with my left hand to apply pressure against the fence and to support the lumber, I use my right hand to push the wood through the blade. With anything under say 6" I use a push stick when the tail end of the wood goes over the edge of the table, any saw blade that is spinning deserves respect.

The blade guard is your choice, you're an adult and can make your own decisions and if your not your parents shouldn't let you play with sharp objects.


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

is your table saw an aluminum top? if not, get one of the magnetic featherboards

if it is the aluminum type, like I once had, I don't think I came up with a solution. I think I tried to c-clamp a board but couldn't really get a good grip on the wood and table at same time. That non standard slot is what kills me, I just don't get why the Sears folks considered that acceptable. I wonder what the guys buying these new granite tops do, then I remember, oh yeah, they have standardized slots.


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

Three things help reduce my fear. I keep a very sharp blade. I periodically check the fence for square. And I keep my table waxed up.

Not doing any of these three tends to make cuts harder to do. And I get nervous.


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## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

Have you tuned up your tablesaw? When you talk about the wood getting caught up in the blade guard, that means to me that the tuning of the saw is inaccurate.

Do a search on the web for tablesaw tuneup and you should fine many documents on how to square the blade to the miter slots and how to square your fence to the blade. This will make a ton of difference once everything is square.


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

Hi Clive,

You may find you will get a better cut if you do the first cut slightly over your finished size, say maybe 1/4" or so. Then run it back through and do your final cut to size. It's much easier to control the wood, which makes everything flow much easier.

I picked up one of those T-slot feather boards. It was only a couple of bucks and made by Samona.

Keep your table waxed.

Have a look at Woodnthings push sticks here ..... http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/woodnthings-7194/albums/push-sticks/ . There was a post that he provided some good info on push sticks, but can't seem to find it at the moment. 

Rick


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Somebody mentioned me?*

Here is the post you were referring to possibly:







*Kickback, lessons learned* 
Most of you already know that a structured wood like plywood or MDF or other manufactured sheet goods "generally speaking" will not close up behind the blade, the cause of most kickbacks, because they are stable. Other "natural woods, like pine and oaks MAY close up the kerf behind the blade and pinch and kick back. Therefore, use a splitter or riving knife which ever works or fits when ripping lumber off trees and when sawing sheet goods it's not "necessary". Don't get me wrong I've had plywood kick back from operator error, but not from the above condition. I was looking at my "welders leather apron" the other day and thought what a great shop apron for table saw duty, especially ripping. It would provide more protection than cotton or poly, IF a kickback should occur. Ballistic nylon would be best, but the best policy is never stand directly in front of a horse or a table saw when either is running! :yes:
I have NO spiltter on by sheet goods saw, a Craftsman 12" motorized, but I DO have a splitter on my 12", 5 HP Powermatic used for ripping exclusively. My first cut on that saw when it was new OOTB, was ripping a scrap of pine from a crate. (no splitter, right, you know how to rip. right?) The wood EXPLODED after it pinched the back side of the blade and shot all the way across the shop! No blood no tears, just a whole lot more RESPECT! I also use a zero clearance throat plate at all times. :yes: It helps resist the temptation to go down into the throat plate after a thin sliver gets stuck, while the blade is still spinning. :no::thumbdown: I had a kickback a few days ago, and it actually loosened the blade off the arbor, so I jambed a scrap into in after I had turned the saw off.. WOW! That was scary. Kickback occured when ripping a narrow piece against the fence wasn't pushed completely thru and pushed down as it exited the blade...overarm dust collector in the way! No Blood, no tears, just a lesson learned. :thumbsup: Move the collector out of the way, and a pressure hold down roller behind the blade might have helped. That's why I'm am passing on this rather wordy response. Bad advice is plentiful, Good advice...priceless. Off for now, Bill:smile:
Another idea is a set of Board Buddies that mount to the fence and pull the work in toward it. Doesn't work for narrow stock however:
http://www.constantines.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=119
bookemdano has a good push stick for resawing!









With a featherboard or a stout *push* stick to help keep the bottom against the fence, I felt a lot more comfortable with this jig than I did with just *push* *sticks*. I still wish I had a nice big band saw for resawing, but I'll have to sell more pens before that can happen.


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

*rip 2X4 in 2X2s*

I think this is the one I had been thinking of, Bill :thumbsup:
The thread was about ripping 2x4's, but all the same, has some good pointers in there.

Rick



woodnthings said:


> It's here some where! :laughing: Seroiusly, *ditch the sacrificial fence.* If anything, add one that's longer than stock. USE the spitter! Most contruction/framing lumber will close down on the back of the blade, pinching it and cause kickback. So always use the splitter. Secondly, this type of wood will twist and warp after being ripped anyway, so there goes straight and true 2x2's. :thumbdown: This has been my experience. You can rip it to any width from 1/16th on up with no problems as long as your push stick fits easily between the blade and fence. I always use a zero clearance throat plate as well which keeps you from trying to "rescue" thin strips that get caught down the dark hole of death to fingers! :thumbdown: I prefer to let the thinner strips be the off fall, rather than be trapped bewteen the fence and blade even tho this is more difficult to do when making exact multiples. I've done it both ways successfully however. As a last suggestion...rip them on a bandsaw if you have one. And by all means support the outfeed ends no matter how you saw them. BTW, There are good push sticks and then there are useless and dangerous ones. A good push stick will not only push the wood though the blade,...But,and this is very important press down on the wood simultaneously! If your's doesn't can't or won't you need to make a new one that will. I'll post some designs that I use. Check out the pix in my photos,Bill
> 
> Never stand directly behind a horse or tablesaw that's running!:thumbdown:


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## Jordy3738 (Jan 12, 2009)

It is good to have a healthy respect for a table saw. Respect is the keyword here. You cannot be afraid of the tool. The fear will lesson the more you use it.

Everyone covered all of the important parts of getting straight cuts. Having fences tuned parallel with your blade, using a sharp blades and a waxed table are the keys to having success at making straight cuts.

The position of your body is really important too as you are feeding the material through the saw. Positioning yourself at proper angles that will ensure that you can apply perfect amounts of pressure without putting your self at risk develops through experience.

Have you thought about making a feather board and clamping it to the saw table?


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## Gary W (Apr 27, 2009)

Willie T said:


> Three things help reduce my fear. I keep a very sharp blade. I periodically check the fence for square. And I keep my table waxed up.
> 
> Not doing any of these three tends to make cuts harder to do. And I get nervous.



Having lost two fingertips on a table saw, many years ago using a commercial saw I had no business using, I have never taken another power tool for granted. 

I also have never had another mishap.
Willie T's advice is also my advice. I'd also like to add don't work when your mind is elsewhere and slower is safer. Good luck and happy sawing.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A Rule of Thumb, literally!*

One rule to try and always follow is *Never allow you hands or fingers* *to push beyond the leading edge of the blade*. Once your hand reaches close to that, within 1", reach for the push stick that's always kept handy just on the right side of the fence and finish the cut. :thumbsup: bill


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## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

If you can attach a feather board to the fence, that should help some with keeping the boards from wandering. Also you might be able to google homemade feather board plans and find a way to make your own for a non-standard miter slot. Just remember that the featherboard is attached before the blade and not behind the cut. Yeah I made that mistake several years ago when I was first learning.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I keep reading on here about people using their push STICK, singular. I routinely use two push sticks. One the hold the material laterally (fron the side) and the other to push the material through the blade area. I probably never let my pushing hand get within 12" of the blade. The lateral side will never get closer than 2". 

I too have a Craftsman saw and have found no problem with accessories fitting the miter slot. Does Sears make saws with more than one size miter slot? A standard size and an undersized slot?

Rockler makes at least two styles of feather board. One has a long retangular "lock" bar on the bottom that fits snugley into the miter slot. The other style is a small oval "tab" on the bottom that is somewhat a sloppy fit into the slot. Both of these work by tightyening against the sides of the slot. If you have the long bar type, and it is too large for the miter slot, you could go back to Rockler and see if they have the other type. It should fit with no trouble.

Alternatively, a little work with a metal file or grinder should bring your bar type down to a dimension that would fit the slot.

Good luck.

George


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

A little fear is a GOOD THING. It helps keep your digits intact.

Gerry


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## niki (Jul 16, 2007)

First, don't be afraid from the table saw but, respect it....
Keeping your hands "far, far and away" from the blade is a very good safety manner.
Personally, I like the blade guard installed, it makes me nervous to see the shiny blade rotating at 4,000 RPM and waiting for my fingers....
When the blade is not guarded, your attention will go to the blade and not to the fence. As Cookn mentioned, you must watch that the workpiece is always attached to the fence...if the workpiece moves out of the fence....the Kickback will follow...stop the saw immediately.

As for featherboard, as suggested by Wood4 fun, you can buy the magnetic one - if your top is of iron.

Or, you can make the traditional feather board
http://woodworking.about.com/od/woodworkingjigs/ss/Featherboard.htm
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?cat=691 (big selection)

I'm using something different...

One is the hand held "feather roller" that has a dowel that fits to the miter slot (the dowel can be moved over a few holes to adjust it to the workpiece width)


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## niki (Jul 16, 2007)

Another "Feather roller" that mounts on the rail has 2 wheel and I use it if I have to rip long boards...the wheels are not only pushing the workpiece to the fence but also down to the table top.
























Another method to hold the workpiece tight to the fence is the "Board buddies" but it's limited by the board width that you are cutting....below is the "shop version that I made but I'm not using them so much as the feather rollers.


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## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

You might also consider a magnetic feather board. I have a couple, and they do have draw backs, but they do function. 


Amazon.com: Mesa Vista Design GRIP-TITE Magnetic Table Saw Featherboard: Home Improvement


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## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

I leave my table saw guard on unless there is some cut I need where the guard is in the way. Then I put the guard back on when I finished. I just don't take any chances. Yes the guard can be a PITA. A lost finger would be more of a PITA.
(I also play guitar and cannot risk losing a finger)

I also use a feather board. This is a nice one from Rockler that I use. (yes Rockler is expensive)
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10644&filter=feather%20board


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Another infeed solution*

The problem with all these fence mounted sysytems is that they are in the way of feeding or pushing the board thru for the final 12". So, the side roller or feather board approach above is probably the best idea. With your "odd size" miter gauge slots, you might have to get creative to make a side push roller or featherboard. Magnetic solutions mentioned above will obviously NOT work on an aluminum saw top, if that is your situation. And as stated before never apply any side pressure behind the leading edge of the blade.:thumbdown: bill


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## Mike Gager (Jan 11, 2009)

i dont use my guard but i do use the splitter. in my experience when i dont use the splitter i get something like what you describe where the wood wants to wander away from the fence.

if you arent using the splitter give it a shot


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## Clive Driscoll (Mar 19, 2009)

*Thanks* for the boatloads of advice so far ! My particular Craftsman tablesaw, as I mentioned, doesn't have the "standard" slot, but it does have an iron top so the magnetic featherboards might help for most cuts. There is a lot of information here so I plan on re-reading this thread a few times. Thanks again everybody, and feel free to continue if you have a piece of advice not yet mentioned.


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## DeltaUnisaw (May 14, 2009)

Try this...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10477&filter=push blocks


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## Clive Driscoll (Mar 19, 2009)

Delta, have you used that before? It looks intriguing


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

This is the best feather board for use on a table saw. I am looking for one for applying pressure down on the table but this one works great for keeping work up against the fence. It's magnetic and strong, turn the knobs and it locks/unlocks, don't matter what size the miter slot is it don't use them. It cost like $40.00 at Home Depot but well worth it.










link to there site http://www.magswitch.com.au/


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## brad (May 31, 2008)

The Gripper is a fantastic tool, I recommend it strongly.


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## Rich Aldrich (Apr 26, 2008)

I mounted a set of board buddies on my fence. These rollers will turn in the direction the wood is fed, but not backwards. They also hold the wood tight against the fence. They work well for me, but you have to get used to something like this - they seem to be in the way of your sight until you get use to them.


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## leonkennedy (May 22, 2009)

Woohoo...some really great pics over here!
Thank you very much for the information!
How do you work with those beasts...holy moly!


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## Runs with Chisels (Jun 4, 2009)

I have to agree with George C. I use 2 push sticks. I do alot of work with rough (unmilled or slightly milled) stock, so maintaining control of the workpiece is always a challenge. Using 2 sticks, one to hold against the fence and one to advance the piece through the last inches of the cut work well, just watch the wood/fence contact all along the length of the fence. Also, don't underestimate the value of infeed and outfeed tables if you're nervous about getting valuable fingers near the sawblade. Not having to balance a workpiece allows you to focus your attention where it needs to be.


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

I hope you have made yourself a crosscut sled.Dont do crosscuts using the fence unless you clamp a piece of wood on it to get the length right and if you do it that way make sure the wood being cut isnt touching the wood mounted on the fence and the blade at the same time.There are lots of plans on how to make one,on the internet and u-tube.They keep ya from getting kickbacks.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Clive,

I too have a craftsman saw and I just c-clamp some homemade featherboards to the table and my fence. The first thing I did with my saw, though, was take off the blade guard and splitter. A lot of people will tell you not to do this, but I found I couldn't see what was going on well enough with it on, so for me it's safer to take it off and be able to see what's happening around my blade. 

The magnetic featherboard would be nice, I have to admit, because I am constantly having to readjust my featherboards because the clamps start to loosen.

FrankP


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## Toolgut (Jun 11, 2009)

Hey guys, I am kind of new to wood working as well what do you guys think of Saw Stop? I dont know if I can justify the cost but this thing is really cool:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

There are two types of people who seem to have the most problem. Those that are too nervous and those that are too confident.

I do not know your financial situation or just how nervous you really are. If you are in the too nervous group and have sufficient cast them I would say get the Saw Stop.

G


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## jcmabes (Feb 18, 2013)

Grip Tite Baby! I love this thing. I feel so much better about feeding wood through my table saw. It works for me. You can find all sorts of info on the web.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think until you get more experience with the saw you should put the guard back on. I don't like the guards either but I had the benefit of having someone experienced watching over me training me to safely use a saw without the guard. The employer I had was conscientious enough to spend a great deal of time making sure I didn't hurt myself. My brother-in-law had the misfortune to go to work for a place that gave him ten minutes training and left him on his own. Within two weeks he ripped his hand up the middle all the way to his wrist. 

As far as being nervous around the saw that’s a good thing. It's usually when someone gets comfortable around a machine they get hurt. After 40 years in the business I have to work at it to be nervous.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

+1 on everything Steve said. For me, the biggy is the riving knife/splitter, that's what keeps the kickbacks down. Kickback pawls and blade guard are almost always on. I can't use kickback pawls and blade guard on narrow cuts but the riving knife is always there. I have push sticks, push blocks, Grippperr and board buddies, whichever I happen to be most comfortable with for the job at hand is what I use. :thumbsup:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Make sure it's tuned and the blade is sharp. Try to push the boards through the same way every time. Use a well designed push stick. I can lay two fingers over the back side of my fence when I'm ripping. It keeps me aware of where my hand is.

Build a sled. Safest thing I know of for a TS.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## JohnnyTooBad (Dec 9, 2012)

You guys realize you dredged a 3 1/2 year old thread, right?:yes:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

JohnnyTooBad said:


> You guys realize you dredged a 3 1/2 year old thread, right?:yes:


:laughing::laughing::laughing:time flies when you're havin fun..... no I missed that:laughing::laughing:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*where's old Clive?*

He's been gone since 2011:



Total Posts: 32
Posts Per Day: 0.02
 Last Post: More outputs on my DC? 05-09-2011 08:21 AM
Find all posts by Clive Driscoll
Find all threads started by Clive Driscoll


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## afx (Feb 5, 2010)

I haven't read all of the posts but my biggest piece of advise is this.

Before you turn your saw on again you need to go buy a good combination blade for ripping and crosscutting. Then you need to spend half your day tuning your saw to cut perfectly square and parallel to the fence. Cutting wood with a good blade and a plum fence makes the entire expirence so much better.


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## jeffsw6 (Nov 24, 2012)

Okay, I know it's an old thread, but...

I don't even know how to use a blade guard. On my R4512 (and my second one.. and eventual new saw probably) I couldn't understand how to adjust it, and the pictures in the manual weren't very helpful, so I just took it off.

I love the riving knife. This wasn't a feature of the table saws I used as a kid and I think it's great.

I just don't understand how to use those pawls and the plastic shield.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I'm too stupid to look for the date. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> He's been gone since 2011:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What's that all about?








 







.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

FWIW, being nervous is one thing, but allowing the use of the saw to interfere with your concentration can be dangerous. It's OK to be wary, but proper operating procedures will allow full attention to what you are doing.

For example...some have made a point of how far to stand away from the line of the blade while cutting. If it puts you into an uncomfortable operating position, that could enable poor stock handling.









 







.


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