# Nelson swag desk - need help with ideas



## radionightster (Apr 8, 2009)

Hi guys,

For my next project, I want to (mostly) duplicate this Nelson swag desk. 

For the desktop: 
(This is the main change I am making), I wanted to laminate two 3/4" 13-ply birch plywood sheets together to expose the nice end-grain that was consistent with that period of design. Then cover the desktop in white laminate. 

For the sides:
Use walnut for the sides (I've never worked with it before). Or possibly use normal cabinet wood and stain it.

Cubby holes:
The little cubby-holes will be wood (what thickness does that look like to you?) covered in laminate too. 

Some notes:

I've never covered wood in laminate before. I've watched some videos on it and it seems you just put a lot of contact cement down, lay down the laminate, and trim it flush with a router. 

Thank you guys for any ideas!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Looks like an interesting project. 

Do you have a source for the legs? Or do you intend to fabricate them?

I guess that my first thought is why someone would want to cover beautiful wood with laminate? Of course if that fits the decor of your room then the answer is obvious.

I had never thought of plywood as having "nice end grain."

Good luck.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

From looking at the edges of that desk and its parts, it looks like the top (working surface is 3/4", the sides 1/2", and the dividers 3/8". I would think for the size intended 3/4" would be sufficient by itself for the top. If you needed a thicker look for the front edge, just add a buildup to the underside at the front.

To laminate plywood, apply a thin coat of contact cement (I prefer solvent base), to both surfaces. You can brush it down, or use a roller with an adhesive roller cover, or you can spray contact cement with an ordinary spray gun and cup. Allow them to flash dry, (approximately 20-30 minutes).

Having the laminate cut over sized, lay on the surface and press down or roll down, or with a hammer and block of wood, pound down. Then rout off the overhang with a flush trim router bit. Block sand or file the routed edge off flat to the next surface. 

If you choose to laminate the top and front edge, laminate the front edge first and the top last.

For the dividers, laminate both outside surfaces and do the front edge last. Final edge work would be to file off the routed edge with a mill file and maintain a thin file line to the previous piece. always file towards the previous piece.


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## radionightster (Apr 8, 2009)

Hi guys!

Thank you for the great ideas. A whole lot to think about!

One more question. How would you attach the side rails (the walnut) the desktop itself? Would glue be sufficient or would you put a few nails in there too?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

radionightster said:


> Hi guys!
> 
> Thank you for the great ideas. A whole lot to think about!
> 
> One more question. How would you attach the side rails (the walnut) the desktop itself? Would glue be sufficient or would you put a few nails in there too?



After you have laminated the top, you could rabbet the bottom edge of the side pieces, 1/8" to 1/4" by the thickness of the top and just use glue and clamps. Make sure the sides are 90 degrees to the top when clamped up. 

If you want to create an artsy look, you could drill out the side into the top and glue in dowels of a lighter color specie. Leave them a bit proud, and sand them flat to the sides. Three or four might look good.


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## radionightster (Apr 8, 2009)

Hi guys,

I'm still gathering my thoughts on this project. I'm starting to see George's idea of why would I cover gorgeous wood with laminate.

I'm now thinking to make the desk without any of the laminate. Just have the outside of it in walnut and the inside in a lighter wood.

I was at the big box hardware store today and they had poplar and pine in nice plank lengths with widths that would be perfect for this project. The pine boards were way smoother than the poplar. Does that matter at all? (of course I'm going to sand everything. ) I would love to buy some walnut instead of staining wood walnut color, but I am still very new at this and I don't think I'm ready to risk wasting such a nice piece of wood.

Thank you for any ideas
RN


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yes, why would you?*

But I don't think that's the problem, just use laminate over plywood or other "structured" wood. Save the walnut for the ends, and trim. If you do otherwise you aren't keeping in the style of the original photo, but maybe you don't care about that. It would seem inappropriate to create a desk in this style and not be true to it's character. JMO. If you want the laminated edges to show in the design, use a Baltic birch ply, 2 pieces glued together say 1/2" to save on cost, would give you a 1" thick surface if you have to buy a full sheet. If not, do what cabinetman suggests and run a border around the perimeter to have a thicker look. The idea of pine or poplar stikes me as totally not in keeping with the style. The question was raised about a source for the legs...you gonna make 'em or buy 'em or have someone fab 'em?This will be the most expensive part of the project in my experience. Bent stainless would not require plating, and could be welded by most metal fab shops. A form for bending would be necessary if you're gonna make 'em. There is also a slight taper in the legs as they near the floor, very difficult to achieve in metal. You could make a lamination out of wood that would mimick the original, but again not stritcly in keeping with the style. All things to consider, but still a very worthwhile project. 
JMO. bill


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## radionightster (Apr 8, 2009)

Well, my problem with laminating the wood with the different colors is the cost of laminate. I can't seem to source the different colors for under $80 for the 8x4 sheets. And I'd be using like 1 sq foot  So I'm looking at like $300+ in laminate alone. 

I found pretty similar legs at a table leg shop online. They aren't perfect, but they are pretty similar.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Be resourceful to save $*

Just use laminate for the top (white). Paint the dividers (colors) or use a analine dye or stain on hardwood. Try cabinets shops for small pieces of colored laminate rather than whole sheets, you might find a helpful individual. Sign shops might have colored "plexi". If you do a proper paint job and sand with 400 wet/dry between coats, it will be hard to tell it's not laminate. :thumbsup: bill


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