# Best Way To Strip Stain (Minwax Water Based)



## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Hi there, Everyone:

So I put minwax water based stain on my project and I really don't like how it looks. I used prestain, but I have not sealed it with anything yet.

How hard would it be to strip it? And what would be the best way. I unfortunately don't have any kind of belt sander or any other electric sander.

It is one 2 X 12 by about 60 inches and three 2 X 3 by about 60 inches as well. All pine and douglass fir.

I do have an electric drill (corded). Can I put a sanding attachment on that? 

Should I just build new ones? (The wood was about $20 total)

Oh, I want to use danish oil instead once I strip them.

Thanks in advance.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could use a chemical stripper. Or a block of wood and sandpaper. If these parts were for your display, I would have done any glue ups before doing any finishing.










 







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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks again, Cabinetman;

Yup, they are for the clothing racks that I made.



> I would have done any glue ups before doing any finishing.


Just so I understand, you mean put the thing together first, and THEN do the finishing, right?

(Again, thanks for ALL your help on these forums. I REALLY appreciate it.)


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Wood4Brains said:


> Thanks again, Cabinetman;
> 
> Yup, they are for the clothing racks that I made.
> 
> ...


Yes...parts that are glued. You could also use lacquer thinner to wipe off the stain.









 





 
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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Wood4Brains said:


> Hi there, Everyone:
> 
> So I put minwax water based stain on my project and I really don't like how it looks. I used prestain, but I have not sealed it with anything yet.
> 
> ...


 With water based stain I don't think you will have much luck with solvents. Since you don't have a sander I think I would try using bleach to get rid of the color. You can use just common laundry bleach. The color shouldn't be too deep since you used a wood conditioner.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

id stay away from bleach. what about it dont you like? your best bet is to saturate with lacquer thinner, wipe off, the sand with 220. let dry then use your danish oil. your probably not gonna get all the color out so you might consider a darker danish oil to make up for whats left.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.



> what about it dont you like?


well, I DID like the lack of odor from the water-based stain.

But compared to the Danish oil, the water-based stain just seems so fake. Maybe I let it sit for too long before wiping off (the can said between one and five minutes, and I was pretty meticulous to wipe off within three minutes). 

I know I am not describing it well; just the danish oil seems a lot more natural than the stain.

Of course, this is probably entirely due to my technique (or lack thereof). Just for my competence level, the Danish oil produces lots better results.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Wood4Brains said:


> Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No, you are describing the water based stain very well. It had nothing to do with your technique, it's just the product. An oil based stain will penetrate the wood and bring out the grain much better. I normally will use a latex stain when I'm trying to make real wood work with a vinyl woodgrain print or formica. It needs to look more fake in this application.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thank you Steve for explaining that. I thought it was primarily just me.

The best way to describe it to those who might be thinking about using some is the water based stain is the equivalent to wood what the spray on tans are to people. While they do allow the grain to show through, they somehow seem to have a paint-like feel (i.e., on the surface) to them.

I will try calling minwax on Monday and see if they have any suggestions on how to strip it.

I did buy one of those round sanding disk inserts for my electric drill and I am tempted to use it... I worry that it will leave so many sanding marks that I am going to end up doing TWICE as much sanding by hand afterwards.


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## Bill White 2 (Jun 23, 2012)

Put the MW stuff in the trash. Then, buy some water based dye stain (if ya wanna use water). Remember that any WB product will raise wood grain, and require a light sanding between stain and finish coats.
I use a wiping varnish after staining. Good results after several coats, wax and buff with 0000 steel wool. A very tactile finish, and long lasting.
Bill


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

I still haven't called minwax yet, but it does look like you can remove the stain with 40 grit sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease - I don't have a sander :sad:


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