# Finishing African Mahogany



## Butternubs (Feb 21, 2015)

Hello Everyone.

I am working on a desk top and this is my first time working with Mahogany. I want to put on a nice finish that really brings out the fiery glow that I've seen on other Mahogany pieces. I saw in a previous post that the user had used Teak Oil and Polyurethane to achieve this (seen here http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/working-african-mahogany-6377/#post50060). 

I also want a really nice smooth finish, like show room pieces. I have read that grain fillers are the recommended item for doing this, but I don't have any experience in it. I would just like some advice on how to go about putting a nice finish on it, any do's or don'ts, and then some guidelines for what order I should do things. I figure Oil, filler, poly is a the best method but i just want to be sure.

My plan for right now is a layer or two of oil to get the color, sanding between, then put on another 3-5 coats of clear poly to finish it off. For the last few coats using some ultra fine steel wool to clean it rather than sandpaper. Does this all sound good or should I try some other things. 

This is what it looks like currently. Thanks for the help


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The wood will either do the fiery glow or it won't. Each piece of wood has it own characteristics and you can't make it do that if the wood doesn't have it. All you can do is cross your fingers. 

For a smooth glass like finish you will need a grain filler. It's not difficult to do. It's like a very thin wood putty you brush on and let it thicken to a paste and squeegee off the excess. I use a squeegee like you clean off the windshield of a car with. Then if you have a few places left the squeegee didn't get you can rub it off with a rag in a circular motion. Let that dry overnight and then lightly sand it with some fine sandpaper to get what residue off that might still be there. Then you can stain and finish it as you would any wood. Many grain fillers only come in a natural color. It would be good to have it tinted to a dark reddish brown before using it. After it dries it doesn't stain very well. I use the mahogany grain filler from Mohawk Finishing products. It comes already tinted. 

For what you are doing I don't believe I would use any teak oil, I would just stick with the polyurethane. Polyurethane inherently has adhesion problems so it would be better if you just thinned the poly about 50% for the first coat so it could soak in. Then proceed as normal. Having grain filler in the wood you will need to allow extra time between coats. The solvents in the finish can make the filler swell up out of the grain and when you sand between coats you can sand the filler off and when it shrinks back down when it dries it will look grainy again. 

I would recommend you not use any steel wool in the finishing process. Steal wood is dirty and gets into the wood and finish. Steel wool is really only good for polishing after the finishing is done.


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

...or, if you want or are willing to go lacquer you could also use several coats of sanding sealer till you get the grain filled and then finish it out with the lacquer sheen you like.


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

Your not going to get the firey grain from the boards you have .Your probably thinking of the older pieces of bookmatched crotched mahogany you have seen.These were mostly done with select pieces of veneer.
For what you have I would put on a sealer coat of amber shellac and shoot with a precat lacquer.
As Steve said ,forget about the steel wool.that is an old method when that is all they had.There are a lot better things to use these days which are more user friendly.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

For mahogany, I happen to prefer the open grain look and I think Warterlox does a nice job of popping the grain in mahogany. It will do what the oil and poly do in a single step, but it doesn't fill the grain. If you want the showroom look, fill the grain and topcoat with lacquer. You'll almost certainly need to spray the lacquer (take all safety precautions), sand level and polish to gloss.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Whenever I do unstained wood and want a smooth finish, I apply a high build sealer. 

I apply 2 coats, then sand with 320 grit. I apply another coat, then sand with 280 grit. I keep applying the sealer until the pores are closed.....usually take 5-6 coats. Then I apply a lacquer in my choice of gloss. Done.


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## CharlesNeil (Jun 26, 2007)

I have a little different approach, this video is from our on line class , something to consider http://www.iplayerhd.com/playerframe/share/355ea1e9-179f-45db-8f65-0cbf79379c3c


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

CharlesNeil said:


> I have a little different approach, this video is from our on line class , something to consider http://www.iplayerhd.com/playerframe/share/355ea1e9-179f-45db-8f65-0cbf79379c3c


 
Eureka!!!! This helps explain why I can't get pores to fill when spraying mahogany. Surface Tension! I would imagine this is exacerbated with WB finishes. I'm going to try rubbing the first coat and see where it gets me!


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Sherwin williams sells a HAPS complying, self crosslinking washcoat formulated for sealing Mahogany and Walnut substrate to help prevent pinholes in Sealer and Topcoats. 
SHER-WOOD MAHOGANY WASHCOAT T69CH29


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## CharlesNeil (Jun 26, 2007)

Just be aware, if you have a water base colorant and you try to work a water base finish in to the pores, it will pull color, we use the oil over water base dyes, if you have a oil base stain then a water base finish can be used, the term is like on like, if you use an oil over a oil base stain, it can do the same , many products are re-dissolved by their medium. oil is not as bad if you let it dry well , just be sure the stain is completely dry. If you have African Mahogany and it has a lot of ribbon you really need to to use a pre- stain , or it can go super dark. Honduran or Santa Dominican its not as bad, often referred to as "Genuine" mahogany .


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## CharlesNeil (Jun 26, 2007)

Randy, I have not used that product , but will , The issue I have encountered is finishes do not like to turn corners, they have to "flow" and pores especially smaller ones have sharp walls and the finish will repel from them, I have shot Mahogany and it looked like I had a zillion fish eyes, it was simply the finish was not flowing into the pores , I then came up with this method. Problem solved


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

CharlesNeil said:


> Randy, I have not used that product , but will , The issue I have encountered is finishes do not like to turn corners, they have to "flow" and pores especially smaller ones have sharp walls and the finish will repel from them, I have shot Mahogany and it looked like I had a zillion fish eyes, it was simply the finish was not flowing into the pores , I then came up with this method. Problem solved


Best way to describe it is it acts like a modified "self leveling" washcoat. I finished a Mahogany desk for a customer to show at the high point furniture market last spring (2014) and used this product. I sprayed a light dye stain, then the T69CH29, wipe stain, 2 high build sealers and a 30 sheen topcoat and it was slick as glass.

I sanded the white wood mahogany with 150, 180, and then 220 and proceeded with my finishing schedule. No pin holes.

This product contains 12.06% solids. Color coats must be dry. Apply 3-5 wet mils depending on the amount of sealing action required. Flash 10-15 minutes, then sand gently with 320 to remove raised fibers and smooth the surface. 

Charles, I guess I dont need to tell you how to use it, but I thought I would throw the info out there for anyone else who is curious to try it once they stumble across this post. :laughing:


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