# My GF wants a reclaimed chevron sliding door...Would like help with ideas.



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

My GF wants a sliding barn door in a chevron type pattern as seen in the pics, made out of reclaimed wood. This would be a sliding door for the bathroom, meaning water might play a part in construction plans. 

My thought is to get a marine grade plywood core, and use reclaimed wood veneers with some wood glue. Do ya'll think this would work well? Woul the veneers hold up and stay stuck?

-David


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It might sound odd but rather than using marine grade plywood it would be better you used particle board with a solid wood banding around the edges. It's not necessary to use waterproof plywood as the door isn't for the shower. Particle board would be more stable and the wood glued to each side of it would seal the moisture out. Particle board is what a door company uses as a core to make a solid core door. 

You plan would work however I would recommend using a resin glue to apply the reclaimed wood. Wood glue might take a month or more to dry and could cause the door to warp. Create a good flat surface to assemble the door and weight it down for 24 hours until the glue cures.


----------



## Minnesota Marty (Feb 27, 2015)

*i would agree*

marine plywood is overkill. Laminating onto the particle board would work but banding the edges is very important. Working on a flat surface will help keep the door flat. Any do some research on the type of glue that dries in 24 to 36 hours. 
It's a cool looking door ... go for it. 

Marty


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

Several options depending on the lumber you use.

A solid sheet is going to be heavy, glue up will be time consuming.

If I had rough lumber I would likely just build a frame from some 1x2, adding bracing strategically to nail the reclaimed lumber to. I would spot glue, and finish nail the boards to the frame. It's reclaimed lumber, there is no issue with a few more nail holes...


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

shoot summ said:


> Several options depending on the lumber you use.
> 
> A solid sheet is going to be heavy, glue up will be time consuming.
> 
> If I had rough lumber I would likely just build a frame from some 1x2, adding bracing strategically to nail the reclaimed lumber to. I would spot glue, and finish nail the boards to the frame. It's reclaimed lumber, there is no issue with a few more nail holes...


I was also thinking this plan, but I feel like this is a more expensive option. Also was worried about wood gaps from different expanding and drying rates.


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

David McNamara said:


> I was also thinking this plan, but I feel like this is a more expensive option. Also was worried about wood gaps from different expanding and drying rates.


Not sure how you quantify it as more expensive, 1x2's are relatively cheap, or you could rip the stock from 2x4's. Hollow core interior doors are made in a similar fashion.

The expense in your project is going to be the hardware.

Reclaimed lumber should be very seasoned, and not suffer much from drying at all. Any shrinkage should have happened years ago. And they will do the same thing attached to a sheet of particle board or plywood. 

I wouldn't leave reclaimed wood without some sort of coating or penetrating sealer for this application, or any other for that matter.

Good luck with your project.


----------



## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

What's a bathroom? :grin: 




OK, good luck. Something different than the plain old interior door.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Joining wood on the diagonal*

If you glue thin pieces like veneer down on a plywood or otherwise stable substrate it will have a greater chance of surviving than if the pieces were thicker... in my opinion. Having them meet at ninety degrees on a diagonal means they should not be able to move much, if at all. Wood moves across it's grain, rather than down the length, so you have a whole bunch of dissimilar wood pieces moving in different directions. I wouldn't count on having real tight joints initially and allow the pieces to move some what.

I really like the look and the sliding hardware, BUT don't count on quietly sneaking into the john in the middle of the night without waking up the dog, scaring the cat and startling the GF. :surprise2:


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

woodnthings said:


> If you glue thin pieces like veneer down on a plywood or otherwise stable substrate it will have a greater chance of surviving than if the pieces were thicker... in my opinion. Having them meet at ninety degrees on a diagonal means they should not be able to move much, if at all. Wood moves across it's grain, rather than down the length, so you have a whole bunch of dissimilar wood pieces moving in different directions. I wouldn't count on having real tight joints initially and allow the pieces to move some what.
> 
> I really like the look and the sliding hardware, BUT don't count on quietly sneaking into the john in the middle of the night without waking up the dog, scaring the cat and startling the GF. :surprise2:


Hah! WD-40 will be near by!


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

Ya'll think OSB or sheathing plywood would work fine with no warping? I can get a good deal for either one.


----------



## Wood&Steel (Dec 6, 2016)

David McNamara said:


> Hah! WD-40 will be near by!


Not to be a turd, but WD-40 would not make a good lubricant...spray some white lithium grease on the bolt the roller with spin on (minus the threads) and let it dry.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

Slight problem.

After I polyurethaned the pine wood side, the OSB has a slight cup to it on both ends. causing it to not lie flat. How do I fix this?


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

David McNamara said:


> Slight problem.
> 
> After I polyurethaned the pine wood side, the OSB has a slight cup to it on both ends. causing it to not lie flat. How do I fix this?


Don't use a product that isn't inherently flat, OSB is a bad choice.


----------



## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

It's not necessarily an issue of the osb not being inherently flat, it's an issue of an unbalanced panel. Doesn't matter the substrate. What I mean is you have solid wood on one side and a piece of ply (in this case osb) on the other. The ply isn't going to grow or shrink with moisture. The solid wood will. When the solid wood grows with humidity, it will bow the panel every time. 

Now if you had the same thickness solid wood on the opposite side too, you would have a balanced panel that would be much less likely to warp as both sides grow or shrink evenly.

The only way I've seen to get the bow out is to clamp it up with an opposite bow in the middle. Then leave it for a few days. However, this is just a temporary solution until the wood decides to move again.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

shoot summ said:


> Don't use a product that isn't inherently flat, OSB is a bad choice.


The OSB was flat before the pine wood was added.



J L said:


> It's not necessarily an issue of the osb not being inherently flat, it's an issue of an unbalanced panel. Doesn't matter the substrate. What I mean is you have solid wood on one side and a piece of ply (in this case osb) on the other. The ply isn't going to grow or shrink with moisture. The solid wood will. When the solid wood grows with humidity, it will bow the panel every time.
> 
> Now if you had the same thickness solid wood on the opposite side too, you would have a balanced panel that would be much less likely to warp as both sides grow or shrink evenly.
> 
> The only way I've seen to get the bow out is to clamp it up with an opposite bow in the middle. Then leave it for a few days. However, this is just a temporary solution until the wood decides to move again.


I will be adding the same thickness of wood on the other side as well, but it is reclaimed wood. I am also planning on adding flat metal bar on the edges, that would add rigidity. I just didn't want to add the reclaimed wood and potentially ruin it, as it was not cheap... If I were to redo the project, how would you go about it?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Agreed*



J L said:


> It's not necessarily an issue of the osb not being inherently flat, it's an issue of an unbalanced panel. Doesn't matter the substrate. What I mean is you have solid wood on one side and a piece of ply (in this case osb) on the other. The ply isn't going to grow or shrink with moisture. The solid wood will. When the solid wood grows with humidity, it will bow the panel every time.
> 
> Now if you had the same thickness solid wood on the opposite side too, you would have a balanced panel that would be much less likely to warp as both sides grow or shrink evenly.
> 
> The only way I've seen to get the bow out is to clamp it up with an opposite bow in the middle. Then leave it for a few days. However, this is just a temporary solution until the wood decides to move again.


I don't understand the Chemistry or the Physics involved, but in my experience anytime you do something to one side of a panel whether it be OSB, MDF, plywood or other, you do have to do the same thing on the other side to prevent warping. Either the surface is sealed off from moisture, or the glue does something, but the result is the same.

Before gluing on the other side I would flatten out the panel with a block in the center and a board with clamps or weights, anything to make it flat. I don't know what glue you used or how you applied it. That may make a difference.... I donno? Rolled on yellow glue, or contact cement...? 

Once both sides are "equalized" I think you may be out of the woods...... :laugh2:


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

David McNamara said:


> The OSB was flat before the pine wood was added.


The only OSB I've ever seen remain flat, was fastened down. It's not regarded as a flat/stable product on it's own. Even Plywood isn't typically the goto product for a perfectly flat result.

Others might be on to something, perhaps when you get the other side done, it will fix it, hope so, because it will be a lot of wasted work and material if it isn't.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

J L said:


> It's not necessarily an issue of the osb not being inherently flat, it's an issue of an unbalanced panel. Doesn't matter the substrate. What I mean is you have solid wood on one side and a piece of ply (in this case osb) on the other. The ply isn't going to grow or shrink with moisture. The solid wood will. When the solid wood grows with humidity, it will bow the panel every time.
> 
> Now if you had the same thickness solid wood on the opposite side too, you would have a balanced panel that would be much less likely to warp as both sides grow or shrink evenly.
> 
> The only way I've seen to get the bow out is to clamp it up with an opposite bow in the middle. Then leave it for a few days. However, this is just a temporary solution until the wood decides to move again.


I think I plan to put some kerf cuts length wise through the OSB, flatten it out with clamps/wedges, then nail/glue the other wood and hope for the best....



woodnthings said:


> I don't understand the Chemistry or the Physics involved, but in my experience anytime you do something to one side of a panel whether it be OSB, MDF, plywood or other, you do have to do the same thing on the other side to prevent warping. Either the surface is sealed off from moisture, or the glue does something, but the result is the same.
> 
> Before gluing on the other side I would flatten out the panel with a block in the center and a board with clamps or weights, anything to make it flat. I don't know what glue you used or how you applied it. That may make a difference.... I donno? Rolled on yellow glue, or contact cement...?
> 
> Once both sides are "equalized" I think you may be out of the woods...... :laugh2:


I hope so too...



shoot summ said:


> The only OSB I've ever seen remain flat, was fastened down. It's not regarded as a flat/stable product on it's own. Even Plywood isn't typically the goto product for a perfectly flat result.
> 
> Others might be on to something, perhaps when you get the other side done, it will fix it, hope so, because it will be a lot of wasted work and material if it isn't.


Will try it and I hope it works out...


----------



## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

Next time - do both sides at the same time and don't use OSB. Currently, assuming the uninstalled lumber has been stored with the current panel, I'd do what you can to flatten out the existing panel with clamps. Let it set up overnight. Sometimes you can get back what you need. OSB tends to hold a curve well so it may do what you need. Once flat, I'd move forward with the install of the other side. If you're pressed for time, I'd clamp it slightly bowed the opposite direction and install as much wood as possible before removing the clamps. You're essentially installing the wood under tension and hoping that when it's released it will help hold its shape. Obviously riskier that way but sometimes you've gotta do what you've gotta do.

Looking forward to the finished pics.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The glue you are using can easily cause warpage too. Normal wood glues take a long time to fully cure. When laminating something like the door it would work better to use a resin glue. A resin glue has a hardening agent that will dry throughout the glue up. In order to use wood glue you might have to keep a door like that clamped flat for a week or more. 

I also agree with woodenthings in that whatever you do to one side you do the same to the other side. If wood was laminated to the other side and clamped flat for a week I think you might have a chance of salvaging the door.


----------



## Wood&Steel (Dec 6, 2016)

Is one really saving any effort and money doing pine-on-osb doors verses making a hardwood door?


----------



## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

Wood&Steel said:


> Is one really saving any effort and money doing pine-on-osb doors verses making a hardwood door?


It's the style he was after. If you make a hardwood door, you'll have typical frame and panel construction. Which is fine, but a different style than the reclaimed lumber on a diagonal.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

J L said:


> Next time - do both sides at the same time and don't use OSB. Currently, assuming the uninstalled lumber has been stored with the current panel, I'd do what you can to flatten out the existing panel with clamps. Let it set up overnight. Sometimes you can get back what you need. OSB tends to hold a curve well so it may do what you need. Once flat, I'd move forward with the install of the other side. If you're pressed for time, I'd clamp it slightly bowed the opposite direction and install as much wood as possible before removing the clamps. You're essentially installing the wood under tension and hoping that when it's released it will help hold its shape. Obviously riskier that way but sometimes you've gotta do what you've gotta do.
> 
> Looking forward to the finished pics.


I have it clamped up flat right now. Plan to leave it for a couple of nights and glue/nail the side with clamps on, or at least as much as I can nail.



Steve Neul said:


> The glue you are using can easily cause warpage too. Normal wood glues take a long time to fully cure. When laminating something like the door it would work better to use a resin glue. A resin glue has a hardening agent that will dry throughout the glue up. In order to use wood glue you might have to keep a door like that clamped flat for a week or more.
> 
> I also agree with woodenthings in that whatever you do to one side you do the same to the other side. If wood was laminated to the other side and clamped flat for a week I think you might have a chance of salvaging the door.


I used PL premium Construction adhesive as it had a 24 hour fully dry time. The resin glue was to expensive for such a large application.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

Wood&Steel said:


> Is one really saving any effort and money doing pine-on-osb doors verses making a hardwood door?


I only used the osb to have an attachment site for the pine and reclaimed wood. Myg GF wanted one side pine with a 45 degree angle slope upwards and the opposite side with a chevron pattern with reclaimed wood. What is your thought process?


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

David McNamara said:


> I have it clamped up flat right now. Plan to leave it for a couple of nights and glue/nail the side with clamps on, or at least as much as I can nail.
> 
> 
> 
> I used PL premium Construction adhesive as it had a 24 hour fully dry time. The resin glue was to expensive for such a large application.


Oh boy, the construction adhesive really never hardens. It will remain flexible enough it may go back and forth between being flat and warped. I'm not sure what would be a fix at this point. It's uncharted waters. Maybe if you are going to laminate the other side put a bunch of screws into the other side first. I would stop using the construction adhesive. If you aren't going to use a resin glue then use wood glue and clamp it to a flat surface for a week.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

Steve Neul said:


> Oh boy, the construction adhesive really never hardens. It will remain flexible enough it may go back and forth between being flat and warped. I'm not sure what would be a fix at this point. It's uncharted waters. Maybe if you are going to laminate the other side put a bunch of screws into the other side first. I would stop using the construction adhesive. If you aren't going to use a resin glue then use wood glue and clamp it to a flat surface for a week.


I thought construction adhesive would work better than wood glue in terms of water from the glue damaging the OSB? As it stands right now, I have the pine screwed to the OSB with construction adhesive. 

I am basically following this guys plan, but I'm using different wood and different lay out for the wood:






I will also be adding the metal edging, which I believe will help with the warping as well?


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

David McNamara said:


> I thought construction adhesive would work better than wood glue in terms of water from the glue damaging the OSB? As it stands right now, I have the pine screwed to the OSB with construction adhesive.
> 
> I am basically following this guys plan, but I'm using different wood and different lay out for the wood:
> 
> ...


It's pretty difficult to damage OSB with water. It's made for sheathing and roofs of houses which often get rained on before being properly covered. 

The construction adhesive is mainly used to lay OSB subfloor. It's only purpose there is to be enough of an adhesive to keep the floor from creaking when you walk on it. it's not enough of an adhesive to be used to laminate with. You won't find anything manufactured using this adhesive. If you have some that has dried feel how gummy it is where wood glue gets really hard. The hardness is what is needed to make something like your door rigid enough to resist wood movement. 

The metal edge might save the day. How thick is the steel? If it's 1/8" or more that should do it. You might lay the door out on horses and put a weight in the middle of it and see if you can bend it a little in the opposite direction for a couple days. The closer you have it to flat when you apply the steel the better.


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

David McNamara said:


> I thought construction adhesive would work better than wood glue in terms of water from the glue damaging the OSB? As it stands right now, I have the pine screwed to the OSB with construction adhesive.
> 
> I am basically following this guys plan, but I'm using different wood and different lay out for the wood:
> 
> ...


Looks like the guy in the video used 3/4" OSB, still not a great material, but the thicker product is going to resist moving more than the 1/4" or 3/8" product you used.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

Steve Neul said:


> It's pretty difficult to damage OSB with water. It's made for sheathing and roofs of houses which often get rained on before being properly covered.
> 
> The construction adhesive is mainly used to lay OSB subfloor. It's only purpose there is to be enough of an adhesive to keep the floor from creaking when you walk on it. it's not enough of an adhesive to be used to laminate with. You won't find anything manufactured using this adhesive. If you have some that has dried feel how gummy it is where wood glue gets really hard. The hardness is what is needed to make something like your door rigid enough to resist wood movement.
> 
> The metal edge might save the day. How thick is the steel? If it's 1/8" or more that should do it. You might lay the door out on horses and put a weight in the middle of it and see if you can bend it a little in the opposite direction for a couple days. The closer you have it to flat when you apply the steel the better.


Wow, I thought construction adhesive was stronger than wood glue... guess not. Would a gorilla glue work or what do you recommend? 

The metal is 1/8 thick.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

shoot summ said:


> Looks like the guy in the video used 3/4" OSB, still not a great material, but the thicker product is going to resist moving more than the 1/4" or 3/8" product you used.


Yeah, I used 1/2 inch OSB. I should have just followed with my gut and spent extra on the 3/4 birch ply....


----------



## Wood&Steel (Dec 6, 2016)

J L said:


> It's the style he was after. If you make a hardwood door, you'll have typical frame and panel construction. Which is fine, but a different style than the reclaimed lumber on a diagonal.


Good point



David McNamara said:


> I only used the osb to have an attachment site for the pine and reclaimed wood. Myg GF wanted one side pine with a 45 degree angle slope upwards and the opposite side with a chevron pattern with reclaimed wood. What is your thought process?


Honestly, not sure what the best way to approach this. I'm half tempted to use a thin MDF core plywood and resin to attach the pine to the plywood....or as somebody else mentioned, attach pine to both sides and use a thinner plywood along with resin.


----------



## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

The PL adhesive is plenty strong for the application at hand. You'll be fine. It wouldn't have mattered if you had used a resin type of adhesive with 100% coverage, the panel would still warp unless it is balanced. 

You say you currently have it clamped flat. I would recommend clamping it past flat and putting an opposite bow in it about double the amount of the initial bow. For example, if you could take a straight edge from top to bottom on your door and there was a half inch gap in the middle, then lay your door upside down on a long work bench, place a 1" shim in the middle, and then clamp the ends down.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

David McNamara said:


> Wow, I thought construction adhesive was stronger than wood glue... guess not. Would a gorilla glue work or what do you recommend?
> 
> The metal is 1/8 thick.


The Gorilla wood glue would be fine but if you mean the foaming polyurethane glue that isn't. It's better than the construction adhesive but isn't suitable for that project. 

I still think the 1/8" steel will save the day, just try to make the door flat before mounting it. The steel may bow if you use it to force the door flat where if it were flat to begin with would maintain it well.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

J L said:


> The PL adhesive is plenty strong for the application at hand. You'll be fine. It wouldn't have mattered if you had used a resin type of adhesive with 100% coverage, the panel would still warp unless it is balanced.
> 
> You say you currently have it clamped flat. I would recommend clamping it past flat and putting an opposite bow in it about double the amount of the initial bow. For example, if you could take a straight edge from top to bottom on your door and there was a half inch gap in the middle, then lay your door upside down on a long work bench, place a 1" shim in the middle, and then clamp the ends down.


I thought PL Premium would be strong enough well. I bought some Titebond 3 just in case though. How long would you clamp it in the opposite way for? 



Steve Neul said:


> The Gorilla wood glue would be fine but if you mean the foaming polyurethane glue that isn't. It's better than the construction adhesive but isn't suitable for that project.
> 
> I still think the 1/8" steel will save the day, just try to make the door flat before mounting it. The steel may bow if you use it to force the door flat where if it were flat to begin with would maintain it well.


its the foaming poly glue. I think the steel will be my best friend as well....Will be sure to clamp it flat upon steel addition.


----------



## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

Give it a night then unclamp it and check. Longer if necessary. After 3 or 4 days if it hasn't moved it probably isn't going to. At that point I'd look at taking it in to a climate controlled location to see if you can drop the moisture content a bit and bow it back the other way.


----------



## David McNamara (Oct 25, 2016)

In case you guys were wondering on the build.

I clamped the OSB/Pine in the opposite direction of the bow/cup for 48 hours. After I unclamped it, the OSB/pine was flat at the ends, but still had a very slight twist to it lengthwise. I put some weight on the corners which brought the twist out. With the weights still on the board, I glue/nailed the reclaimed wood to the OSB. I have it clamped up with some jointed flat 2x4s right now, so its as level as it can get. Will buy the 1/8 or 3/16 metal edging this week. 

Here is how it stands right now.


----------



## rachelwise001 (Jan 13, 2017)

Hi everyone!
I love the idea as well and it can be great for a bathroom. Top-quality marine plywood will serve you long and effectively even in such a moisture-conditioned area as a bathroom and you and your GF will love the look for sure!
Good luck!


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*not for this project*



rachelwise001 said:


> Hi everyone!
> I love the idea as well and it can be great for a bathroom. Top-quality marine plywood will serve you long and effectively even in such a moisture-conditioned area as a bathroom and you and your GF will love the look for sure!
> Good luck!


You can't get marine plywood in herringbone pattern which is the desired look. :|


----------

