# Wiring "tips"



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I'm currently wiring the overhead lights, out door lights and outlets in my garage. I bought no 14 wire in 250' rolls in 6 colors for which I made a dispenser to keep the wire from getting all tangled together and to prevent "overspooling" when you pull out the wire, another tangle confined to one spool.
I had some short ends left over and after years of using solid wire to wrap extension cords I came up with a loop and a half hitch which is so much better and also provide a hanging loop.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

That's an absolute stroke of unadulterated problem solving, task specific, job related, labor saving, time resolving, waste minimizing, cost conscious, shop tip. WTG.

In looking at the picture below, it's a good thing you ain't color blind.:laughing:
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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Woah!*



cabinetman said:


> That's an absolute stroke of unadulterated problem solving, task specific, job related, labor saving, time resolving, waste minimizing, cost conscious, shop tip. WTG.
> 
> 
> 
> C-man that's the nicest thing you've ever said to me. I *think* it's a compliment.......:blink: bill


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Bill I'm not sure about the codes there but outlets should not be on #14 wire. All outlets are on #12 which I agree with. #14 wire is just to easy to over heat when used on outlets.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Hey Richard*

It's my understanding that no 14 wire will carry 15 amps. If I use a 15 amp receptacle that should be good. If I use a 20 amp receptacle not so, and I need 12 ga wire. If I can fish some no 12 thru the conduit I will, just in case. I agree 12 ga is best.
:thumbsup: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I agree with Richard. He states a very valid point. I think your post showing the rack for the spools and the use of wire as a tie/hook are very good. I may be speaking out of my hat, but it's my belief that posts should show proper code approved methods for doing home repair or installations. 

We have a wide variety of members from all parts of the world, which may be prompted by a thread to emulate what is posted as it may seem an approved method. We sure don't want anyone to get in trouble with any authorities, or create a hazard for themselves or anyone else.

When I first read your post and saw the picture, it slipped right past me, as I didn't expect anything improper or inadequate. We all know you had good intentions and might not have been aware of what minimums are recommended. You've been around here a long time and have posted some of the best threads we've had, and I doubt you would circumvent codes or do any work without permits or inspections. 

It's entirely possible that your area has its own codes or lack of codes/permits/inspections, and in that case I apologize for the reference. Actually this is a good heads up for those posting suggestions, to see first if they are within accepted guidelines. It's also a heads up to those that bring into the discussion any foreseeable problems.












 





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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Thanks for the creds C-man*

Yes, I am am aware of the codes, that's why I would use a 
receptacle rated for 15 amps on a #14 wire. The breaker, the wire and the receptacle must all be rated for the same amperage/current draw. I probably have only one 15 amp recepticale in the entire house 2 shops and garage. But You guys are correct I should just pull the #12 wire and be done with it. :thumbsup: bill

FISHING no. 12 WIRE AS WE SPEAK!!


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Hey there are things that pass code that I think are just absolutely crazy. I have (2) bathrooms on one 15 amp GFI and they are on opposite sides of the house. The actual breaker is 20 amp and they used #12 wire but really who thinks a 15 amp GFI could handle 2 bathroom outlets. My wife and daughter if they are getting ready at the same time will be using blow dryers and or flat irons which will trip the GFI. Now I ran a new wire for our bathroom but the question is. Why would you put to bathrooms on one GFI and why do it when they are on opposite sides of the house?

I have another GFI in the back of the wife's closet that was hidden with boxes about drove me crazy trying to find out why the jacuzzi tub wouldn't work. Turns out she hit the test button with the boxes somehow. I didn't even know they had that outlet in there.

I'm just finishing the remodel of my laundry room. One big problem was the dryer vent through the attic and out of a roof vent. It's not bad enough that the vent goes up like 14' over 6 and up another two before it vents into a vent cover that has screen. The lint in the vent gets caught because of the long trip up, then what lint does make it out of the stack gets trapped in the screen . It gets wet from rain and becomes hard as cement blocking the airflow and creating a serious fire hazard. I had to go up there and clean the dryer, vent and stack up then try to clean the screen every 4 months are so because the dryer would take two hours and clothes were still wet.

Sorry for the rant but the codes and design of things are impractical. People who make these codes and or the architects and design engineers need field training so they can understand what actually works and what is just stupid. 

Ok I feel better now


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Codes widely vary from locale to locale. I put an 8x12 kitchen in in Wisconsin and was required to put in 9, 20 amp circuits. A few years ago I put in one twice that size in Indiana and the rules weren't nearly so stringent.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> It's my understanding that no 14 wire will carry 15 amps.


Where I come from, the Canadian Electrical Code states that a wire can not be loaded for any more than 80% of its rated capacity. With that being said, #14awg is rated for 15 amps, but the circuit can not carry any more than 12.5 amps at the rated 80% load. That seriously limits what type of machine you can plug in, as the start up amperage on most shop machines is much higher than 12.5 amps. #14awg, (in most applications that I have seen) is mostly used for lighting only, where the amperage is constant and not a variable depending on what you plug in. I don't know the codes in your area Bill, I'm just passing on a little information from the CEC, that's all.
Ken


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## serpentine5 (Oct 13, 2010)

this has already been covered, just want to throw my 2 cents in.... If you run a circuit with 14, you need to have a 15am breaker feeding it. You can put 50 amp outlets on it... not going to cause any problem. Its the breaker that sets the tone for the circuit. the way wire is rated: #14 wire is 15 amp, 12 wire is 20 amp, 10 wire is 30amp. 
As Kenbo said, 14 is primarily used for lighting applications, and outlets are usually done in 12. I have been in some houses where the outlets were done in 12, but the breakers were 15amp. And I have seen some where the house was wired with 14 and had 20amp breakers. The 12 on 15 wasnt as alarming as the 14 on 20. THe 14 on 20 is a fire waiting to happen.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

My electrician buddy took a 5 gal bucket with a tool apron, and cut a 3" hole on the edge of the lid. He sits in comfort wiring switches and outlets and has an instant trash can built into his tool kit.

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About amp ratings.... 

What Serp said was my experience with the code officer and inspecting electrician on my rewire in mid Michigan. To summarize the rule:

Starting at panel and going to end of run... it is OK for hardware to go UP in amp rating but NEVER ok to go down. 

So if you plug a 18 amp machine into a 20 amp outlet wired with 14g wire and a 15 amp breaker the breaker will trip, no big deal. 

Do the same thing but swap the breaker for 20 and you overheat the 14g wire and very possibly burn the place down


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

It has been said before...

The purpose of the circuit breaker is to protect the wiring in the wall. If the circuit breaker prevents too much current from exceeding wire capacity all is good with the world.

Also, in the first picture you have far too many connections for the physical size of the box. With wire nuts I doubt that you'll be able to close up the box, even without any electrical components.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

rrich said:


> It has been said before...
> 
> Also, in the first picture you have far too many connections for the physical size of the box. With wire nuts I doubt that you'll be able to close up the box, even without any electrical components.


 Yeah rich, I pulled more wires than I needed, just because I could in one pull. There are fewer wires now and some just run through with no connections and no components to wire. 
I got the no. 12 pulled for the outlets and on it's own breaker, a 20 amp. There are 2 circuits of no. 14 wire each on it's own breaker, a 15 amp. I think I'm good to go here. The stranded wired these days is slightly smaller than the solid wire previously. Thanks for all the "tips" guys!  bill


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Oh, remember Mr. Kirchoff when wiring your circuits. He can save you some money.

Consider two outlet boxes, two circuits all through the same conduit. Run one black, one red, one green and ONE white wire. Be sure that the red and black wires are on different sides of the sub panel. (i.e. Connect the black to the black bus and the red to the red bus in the sub panel.) If both outlets/circuits are in simultaneous use, the actual current in the white wire will approach zero. It's a neat trick that saves money and is completely approved by the NEC.


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## serpentine5 (Oct 13, 2010)

Oh, nice caddy BTW.... a tip when running spools next to one another, run one clock wise, then counter then clock and so on on the same support, this way they roll against each other and help to stop roll off (over spooling).


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