# Cutting beads around a 90 degree corner



## mavawreck (Nov 26, 2011)

Is it possible to use a beading tool (IE stanley 66) to cut a flat bead on the front of a board and continue the profile down at a 90 degree?










If it was stepped, it would be easy. 










Otherwise, it seems like you'd have to end it at a 45 like a miter joint.

Any thoughts?


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

mavawreck said:


> Any thoughts?


Yes, I have a thought. Reduce the size of that first image from 2600+ pixels wide to something more friendly to the forum.


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## mavawreck (Nov 26, 2011)

I've never been so tempted to make it larger. My deepest and sincerest internet apologies for making a mistake that so offended your sensibilities.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mavawreck said:


> Is it possible to use a beading tool (IE stanley 66) to cut a flat bead on the front of a board and continue the profile down at a 90 degree?
> 
> Otherwise, it seems like you'd have to end it at a 45 like a miter joint.
> 
> Any thoughts?


It would be a PITA to make it look like a machined profile. You could work to a stop, or, do the turn by a hand if your skillset is good. You might have to do some chisel work.








 








.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

mavawreck said:


> I've never been so tempted to make it larger. My deepest and sincerest internet apologies for making a mistake that so offended your sensibilities.



Go ahead... Make it bigger!

You will just get less responses from those of us who refuse to scroll back and forth just to read text associated with your dumb azz pics. :smile:


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## mavawreck (Nov 26, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> Go ahead... Make it bigger!
> 
> You will just get less responses from those of us who refuse to scroll back and forth just to read text associated with your dumb azz pics. :smile:


And I'll go elsewhere to ask questions :thumbsup:


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

mavawreck said:


> And I'll go elsewhere to ask questions :thumbsup:


 It is quicker to downsize the graphics . 
Traipsing from forum to forum getting the same advice each time as you did here is time consuming :thumbsup:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

mavawreck said:


> I've never been so tempted to make it larger. My deepest and sincerest internet apologies for making a mistake that so offended your sensibilities.


Personally I think this is an asinine response. The poster was only trying to be helpful. Most people will not take the bother to read a post where the picture is so large that it does not fit the page.

You should have thanked him for pointing that out to you.

George


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

mavawreck said:


> Is it possible to use a beading tool (IE stanley 66) to cut a flat bead on the front of a board and continue the profile down at a 90 degree?
> 
> If it was stepped, it would be easy.
> Otherwise, it seems like you'd have to end it at a 45 like a miter joint.
> ...


 This page has info about tuning up the Stanley #66. 
It may not addresses your particular radius query , never the less it is a good read.

Were the two edges you posted done by hand or by router ?


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

mavawreck said:


> I've never been so tempted to make it larger. My deepest and sincerest internet apologies for making a mistake that so offended your sensibilities.


I resent this guy's sarcasm. Sarcasm on this forum is MY job, dammit ! :icon_smile:


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Wow lots of passive aggressive behavior goin' on here, fellas. Everyone take a deep breath! Lol

Mavawreck I seriously doubt you'd be successful in trying to scrape that bead into the end grain as it goes around the corner of the board. I'd put the same profile on another same-sized piece of stock and cut a mitered return, like you would do to end a baseboard or chair rail run for example.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

BZawat said:


> Wow lots of passive aggressive behavior goin' on here ...


Hm ... I must be losing my touch. I wasn't trying to be passive at all :smile:


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

I don't know if this would work, but you could try it on a scrap and see what happens. I don't have a way to test it myself right now. My thinking is that there are two parts to the bead: one in the face of the board, and then the rounded part at the corner of the board.

If you run the beading tool almost to the end -- where it would intersect with the bead on the adjacent edge -- and then do the same on the other edge, you'd have the "face" part of the bead done. You could then use a rasp or plane to round the "outside" part of the bead through the corner, and possibly a chisel to clean up the face piece where the two beads meet. It seems like it ought to be possible, but I'm not sure how hard it would be.


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

I can not see the first picture, all i see is a small box with a red "x" in it, however, If I understand correctly, you are trying to scratch a bead on the face side of 2 intersecting corners? if so yes, you can do that. you will have to stop a little bit short of the corner and work into the corner from both directions. then when the inside corner is matched. you will need to use a single or quarter round scratch to finish the outside edge. or a chisel or rasp or by what ever other means you can find appropriate.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Wema826 said:


> I can not see the first picture, all i see is a small box with a red "x" in it, however, If I understand correctly, you are trying to scratch a bead on the face side of 2 intersecting corners? if so yes, you can do that. you will have to stop a little bit short of the corner and work into the corner from both directions. then when the inside corner is matched. you will need to use a single or quarter round scratch to finish the outside edge. or a chisel or rasp or by what ever other means you can find appropriate.


Yep! Finishing with a chisel would be the easiest way to get it finished.


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