# Restoring a Wooded Tool Box



## SamCec (Mar 23, 2010)

Hi:

My 94 year old dad gave me a wooden tool box that must be at least 50 years old. I'm not sure of the wood but I think it might be maple. I would like to restore it. The tool box must have been in his Tool and Die shop for 50 years. There is grease and oil stains on the wood.

Can someone explain to me the best way to clean it and remove the oil and grease. What's the best way to restore it? 

I am a novice working with wood so please be specific including naming products where necessary.

Thanks,
Sam


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Hello Sam.

Try this link...

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/removing-motor-oil-wood-16188/


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

That looks identical to a tool box that I have that was also my fathers. Is the outside metal or wood?

On mine the case is metal and the drawers are metal. I know that the one I have is over 70 years old.

George


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Now that you posted pics,

I would leave it just the way it is! :yes:


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

mdntrdr said:


> I would leave it just the way it is!


Yea, so would I. :yes:


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## machinistchest (Mar 3, 2008)

*Cleaning a machinist chest*

Sam,

Try Go Jo hand cleaner, active ingredent is lanolin. It will remove the grease with out removing the the finish, It won`t hurt the label either.You might want to prep and give it a coat of shellac after to seal it

It`s got a serial # stamped in the lower front right hand corner on top of the base it should start with a DDD. Three D`s meaning 20" Two D`s 17" one D 14".
There is a ink stamp inside of the base usually with a glue lot # and what cut the wood is (plain or quarterd oak) The wood is oak.

The company that made it was Union Tool Chest Works ,Railroad st Rochester NY. They were founded in 1893 It`s been said by an old timer that this was the box that Gerstner copied.

.John


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## SamCec (Mar 23, 2010)

machinistchest said:


> Sam,
> 
> Try Go Jo hand cleaner active ingredent is lanolin it will remove the grease with out removing the the finish, however you might want to prep and give it a coat of shellac after to seal it...John


Thank you for the suggestion. I did try one thing called "Grease Aid". It took a lot off but there is still a residue. Instead of shellac, someone told me to use this mixture. Do you have an opinion?
- 2 parts Boiled Linseed Oil
- 2 parts Mineral Spirits
- 1 part Clear Coat polyurethane.

I have NOT done it yet, I am trying to get the opinion to use.

Attached are the latest pictures of how it looks.

Sam


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## machinistchest (Mar 3, 2008)

*Refinishing Prep*

I`m not familar with the above formula and personally I never did like the polyurethane, I mean it`s nice looken and is very durable however if one were to ever try to remove it again. it`s almost impossible. After refinishing about fifty chest I pretty much tried everything and shellac became my finish of choice , there is a learning curve with it . I like it because it`s alcohol based, cleans up easily with amonia, dries super fast, infact over brushing can be a problem however I can put several coats on within one evening and of coarse I would steel wool in between.

just from looking at the ring pulls on your chest they were the earliest version that were used ,they actually have a ribbon that held the ring in and there were only two pin fastners. later in the years the pull progressed to three pin and the bowl was formed where the ring would be trapped in.I`d say your chest was built in the early twenties if not earlier.It`s at least 90 years old.

The lock was made by eagle lock co. of Terryville Conn. It was called a machine lock not because it was machined but because of the way it was instaled by the use of a router,a round cavity as opposed to a chiseled out square mortise. Ther was actually a court case against eagle by I think corbin lock co.that claimed they had the orginial patant for the process ,however corbin lost the case. A google search can pull this up.It`s a beautifull lock.

Have you thought about removing the hardware before finishing it sure makes for a neat job . What I did was put all the hardware (except the lock) in a glass jar and sprayed easy off oven cleaner in there, then put the lid on and shook it up for about five minutes then rinse.

Here`s a link to a union that is not as old as yours however it was done in shellac,http://machinistchest.com/site/product_details.php?category_id=13&item_id=20


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## SamCec (Mar 23, 2010)

Machinistchest:

I do not want to sell the chest but do you have any idea what it's worth?

I don't have the key for the lock, do you know where I can get one?

As I mentioned in an earlier post, the drawers are lined with felt. That felt, because of use, contains a lot of grease and oil. Would it detract from the value if I replaced it?

Thanks,
Sam


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## machinistchest (Mar 3, 2008)

Sam,

There is also a # stamped in the lock. I`v been making keys for my boxes. Perhaps I have the same lock# and can copy a key I`ll have to check.

When I first started out in the refinishing biz, everyone told me not to refinish the antique that it would lose its value. I got to looken at some of the chests I had and decided that they were worthless in the condition they were in, as you know, dirty filthy, so I went against what every one said and refinished one that I had bought on ebay for $80. I turned around and sold it for $465.00 back on ebay, the fella that bought it sold it at a gun show for $965.00. What I`m saying is it the value depends on where its sold or who buys it. The folks at gun shows like nice things,on the other hand ebay is more of a rich mans garage sale.

Yes In my oppinion changing the felt will improve it`s value. it`s easily removed with hot water and a putty knife then scrub away excess glue with steel wool. Use Elmers white to refelt avoid yellow glues the tend to out gas.

There is much info on the web on refinishing. Here`s one that I like he`s doing an old antique table probably around the same period.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/techniques/archive/2009/02/20/restore-an-antique-oak-table.aspx

...mc


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## SamCec (Mar 23, 2010)

machinistchest: Thanks for the offer for the key. The number stamped on the back of the lock is 65. If you have one, I will be glad to pay you for the key and the postage.

Let me know and if things look good, I'll send you a PM with my address.

Thanks,
Sam
S


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## machinistchest (Mar 3, 2008)

*Eagle reproduction box lock*

Your fortunate the lock is still there, many are missing because the ease of removal. I`m just finishing up building 100 reproductions.There were two types, a non till which is the one showen and also a top till type it has two little hooks that pop up and out to hold the lid down also known as a piano or a roll top desk lock. I should have some pic`s in the near future.

Here`s a link to the non till...MC

http://machinistchest.com/site/product_details.php?category_id=55&item_id=37


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## machinistchest (Mar 3, 2008)

*Union wooden toolbox hardware*

And those famous flush mount finger ring pulls ...MC











http://www.machinistchest.com/site/product_details.php?category_id=55&item_id=1


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I did my grandfathers machinist chest with Minwax antique oil, after stripping the peeling paint and polishing the brasses. It doesn't change the look, easy wipe on but provides protection. Leaves a matte finish.


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