# dado for door slides?



## Microtus (Jun 22, 2010)

I've got a few posts but basically a lurker here. Still trying to get my garage/shop set up etc. I haven't built anything yet in part to massive clutter.

My garage has way too much stuff for the storage space available so I'm trying to kill two or more birds with one stone by building a workbench with multiple stacked drawers. 

I built the workbench into a dividing wall of my garage and the same height as my table saw with plans to use it for an outfeed table. Probably should have lowered it a tad but I'll see how it works. It's just shy of 10 feet long by 26" deep and 34" tall. Standard 2x4 construction with a 3/4" ac top and drawer bays skinned with 3/8" cdx.

I've never built drawers before so this will be a first. I was hoping to build the drawer frames out of some cheap pine or poplar using plain box joints with left over 3/8 cdx for bottoms and cutting a dado into the sides of the drawers to run on slats in the bays. I know I could use drawer slides but were talking 18-20 drawers and I'm broke.

My main concern is trying to support a fully loaded 26" deep drawer with a dado on a runner. I'm guessing if I pulled it out too far with some weight in it there would be a chance of tearing out the dado. To get around that I was going to make the drawer the full 26" but put a false back in it around 18-20" as a full 26" is kinda excessive anyway. That way there is no need to pull it out further and thus maintain some "meat" for support/strength.

Am I way off base or should I just start saving for some drawer slides? I know others in here have posted up links for some rather inexpensive slides but I just took a hit buying my first brad nailer and router.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I think for large drawers, the 3/8" sides will be too thin, when you dado them for the runners. Also I think the drawer dividers will be too thin at 3/8" Thats not a lot to hold screws holding the runners on.
When I make my larger tool chest, I think I will cut a shallow dado in the drawer dividers to locate the runners, and give more strength. Most likely use 3/4" for the large drawers.

I would like to hear more advise on this.


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

It largely depends on what you're putting in the drawers.......so the end user has final say.I might be putting stupid high $$ layout,precision tools in mine.None weighing more than a cpl ounces.Next guy thinks drwrs,fully compartmented,filled to the brim with sq drive screws is what its all about.

Not bustin on you,in fact you're doing exactly what needs to be done....asking/researching.But be aware that the answers are coming from many different viewpoints?

There is one way of "drawer" construction that sees the bttm extend past the sides(no dado in dwr side),and is in fact part of the slide system.The bttm fits into a dado on the cabmet.We use these for small parts bxs.,once slicked with bees wax they'll run effortless for years.The drwr part(simple 4 sided affair) just sits on top of bttm.It can be scaled up to 3/4 bttms.Obviously these are very utility style drwrs........and you won't be getting into any "shop" magazines.It just shows theres more than one way to do it.BW


----------



## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

It'll work. When you're strapped for cash, you can't be too picky. Been there most of my life. And you can extend just the sides instead of making 2 backs. Just mount the backs a couple inches in from the ends of the sides, no bottom necessary there. I've done similar.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

BWSmith said:


> There is one way of "drawer" construction that sees the bttm extend past the sides(no dado in dwr side),and is in fact part of the slide system.The bttm fits into a dado on the cabmet.We use these for small parts bxs.,once slicked with bees wax they'll run effortless for years.The drwr part(simple 4 sided affair) just sits on top of bttm.It can be scaled up to 3/4 bttms.Obviously these are very utility style drwrs........and you won't be getting into any "shop" magazines.It just shows theres more than one way to do it.BW


+1. If you are on a budget, this would be a way to save money. IOW, the drawer box is mounted on top of the plywood, and the plywood extends from the sides to fit into runner guides. The guides can be just two strips of wood mounted to accept the plywood edge. This would eliminate the need to dado the cabinet. The bottom can be further past the back of the drawer to stabilize it. It may be a bit of handling to get a deep heavy drawer out if necessary.

Another suggestion. If these are utility drawers, why not just use plywood (1/2" minimum, but 3/4" will be the best) and make rabbet joints instead of box joints. When glued, and fastening the box (when squared) on top of the plywood, it would be a sturdy drawer.

You could lay strips of Formica type laminate under the plywood edge that rides on the wood runner, and also on top of the edge of the wood runner. This gives you a mica to mica surface which will slide easily, and the plywood won't get damaged.












 







.


----------



## Microtus (Jun 22, 2010)

Great feedback, thanks all. 

I practiced a couple double rabbets on some scrap 6/8 pine last night using the table saw. Time to fashion up an adjustable stop block to clean them up a bit and see how that goes. I was thinking rabbets wouldn't work on plywood but will give that a try as well following Cabinetmans post. 

I also hadn't thought of just extending the bottom sides to lay on runners. I had it stuck in my head that the "extensions" needed to be in the middle.

Considering the cabinet shell is built, glued, nailed and screwed I think it's a weeee bit late to think about putting a dado on the inside. Wood runners are going to be the ticket, I just need to decide which method. Four bays, 4 different ways :huh:

Thanks again.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Just kind of a butt-in post with nothing to do with runners.
On my larger drawers, with the potential of becoming HEAVY, I put drawer pulls on the back as well. Gives something to grab when trying to remove and replace one.
I agree with CM suggestion of runners. One big advantage runners have over slides is you don't loose drawer size with them. Also, I was demoing a bunch of old kitchen cabinets and the guys who built them had kind of a unique solution. Instead of running wood on wood, they put a dado, 3/8 deep x 3/4 wide, down the middle of the runner, They put a half dozen or so pieces of 1/2" dowel, 5/8" long in the dado with a couple of stop blocks to keep them from all collecting at the ends. Sort of a poor mans roller bearings. :thumbsup:
Well, I thought it was unique anyway:yes:


----------

