# Thermal overload reset question



## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I have a Ridgid TS3660 TS with a 1 1/2 HP motor on it. The thermal overload reset is mounted on the rear of the motor and I must have hit it into the wall or something and broke the switch. I was sawing yesterday in the 100 degree garage and I think I fed too fast and the switch tripped. Now I can't get it to reset because it's broke. Ridgid service tells me that they don't sell just the switch, they only sell the motor and the switch is attached. ($450.00). Is a thermal overload on a standard electric motor pretty easy to replace you think? Has anyone had to do this? I am going to go to the motor shop later and talk to them, but I am hoping to not have to take the motor off and take it in to shop. It doesn't look too complicated to replace, I just need to find someone that carries one. Am I correct in thinking it acts as a fuse on the motor like in a fuse box where it gets too hot and you just reset the circuit when it trips? Any advice?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

After much research and speaking with an electric motor shop and Ridgid I've found that the overload switch is not common. It's a Chinese POS by SANG MAO and you can't get them in the US unless you buy a Ridgid motor. $500-600 for one of them. I guess I'll just be by-passing it and be very careful with the motor until I kill it. I love this saw but this is ridiculous. I little plastic switch breaks and I have to replace the entire motor? F-ing disposable society and F-ing Chinese crap!


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Sorry about no replies. Do you have pictures of the switch. I find it hard to believe that you would have to replace the whole motor. If you can bypass the switch then you should be able to replace it with a similar switch somehow.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

I would recomend not bypassing a safety. The switch tripped, saving the motor, preventing a fire, etc.

My suggestion would be to take the motor to a repair shop. They probably won't have the exact switch, but probably have one that would work.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

The switch is the M-9005Q pictured and described in this link. The motor shop actually advised me to just bypass the switch. They said they may have one that would work but they said it probably wouldn't work under the same specs and might not trip in time anyways. I am halfway tempted to burn it up and get a new saw, but I'll have to make the wife very happy somehow first. 
http://sangmao.com/other%20control/m-9005.htm


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Why not use a fuse like this*

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103774

These are standard automotive spade lug fuses. They can be mounted in a fuse holder or pigtailed in to the circuit on one leg. There are also resettable ones: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d28.html


This one sounds good:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Boat...2981531QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

Maybe we have an electrical engineer watching this thread?  bill


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103774
> 
> These are standard automotive spade lug fuses. They can be mounted in a fuse holder or pigtailed in to the circuit on one leg. There are also resettable ones: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d28.html
> 
> I realize the voltage is 12 volts, not 120 volts but that may not matter...amps are amps....I think? :blink: Maybe we have an electrical engineer watching this thread?  bill


12v fuses can't carry the watts of a 120v circuit. At x-amps, the wattage will be 10x more at 120v.

What ACP needs is a thermal switch, one that opens at 40 degrees C.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I found a 120 reset switch*

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Boat...2981531QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I think I'll run to the motor shop tomorrow and, even though they said they don't have a replacement, try to find an equivalent like that one you posted Bill. They have to have something I can make work. I refuse to believe there is nothing that'll work. It just boggles my mind.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Brink said:


> 12v fuses can't carry the watts of a 120v circuit. At x-amps, the wattage will be 10x more at 120v.
> 
> What ACP needs is a thermal switch, one that opens at 40 degrees C.


+1. Thermal resetable switches should be easy to find. A quick search I found a MFG site and the switches are only 15 cents...but you have to order 2000.:laughing::laughing:












 







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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

ACP,

I think you need to find another electric motor shop that wants to work with you. There are probably a number of ways to solve your problem that don't involve replacing the motor or going with no overload protection.

Bill


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

Here are some other possibilities
http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=thermal

I know the store, they're just up the road from me - lots and lots of oddball stuff like you're looking for.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Thank you all for the advise. I'm going to try one of these other switches mentioned. One other question. My broken switch has three terminals. One is a power in from the cord and then two going out to the motor. The fuses I've seen have two, I assume one in and one out. It is going to be an issue if I connect the two wires going to the motor to one terminal you think? They both require power, so I'd think that would work. I don't know why they were on separate terminals in the OEM thermal protector. Thoughts?


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

ACP said:


> Thank you all for the advise. I'm going to try one of these other switches mentioned. One other question. My broken switch has three terminals. One is a power in from the cord and then two going out to the motor. The fuses I've seen have two, I assume one in and one out. It is going to be an issue if I connect the two wires going to the motor to one terminal you think? They both require power, so I'd think that would work. I don't know why they were on separate terminals in the OEM thermal protector. Thoughts?


Connecting the two motor wires to one terminal will work.

Keep in mind, you're going to be installing a amperage triggered circuit breaker in place of a temperature switch. They are different.

The best choice would be the switch c-man mentioned above. It would need to be manual reset. Auto reset could be dangerous.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Did you try this site http://toolpartsdirect.com


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Why can't he by-pass the broken thermal switch and install a magnetic motor starter or contactor with the correct size heater? Isn't that what the heater is for? A 1 1/2 HP motor would probably use a NEMA size 0 starter. A motor shop can figure out which heater elements are needed based on data from the motor nameplate. And yes you are correct ACP as I understand it. The thermal overload protects the motor from overheating. Kind of like a fuse or breaker, but it's designed to trip when the temperature rises to a certain point in hopes of avoiding the magic smoke. Whereas your shop's circuit breakers are there to protect your wiring from overload of amperage before the wires get too hot and bad things start to happen.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Can you use a Bic pen to push the internals of the switch?


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Wow it's amazing how a thread can get overlooked sometimes and have no relies. Sure do have allot of advise now. I wouldn't trust a motor shop that says to bypass the switch. It may be a long shot but, any chance you have another shop close by? I know it's hard enough to find one sometimes but if your anywhere near a big city you may get lucky.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The more I think about this motor problem, the more I think that the store selling the machine (likely Home Depot), might just be sympathetic to one of their motors failing, and just for good customer relations may just exchange the motor for you, or order the switch free of charge (hey it could happen).

If you go in with a good attitude, they may just agree to keep you happy. It's worth a try.












 







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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks for all the advise guys. I have tried toolpartsdirect with no luck. Malloy electric is out motor shop and they are a top notch group. I talked to the guy here in Sioux Falls and I had my dad talk to several shops in Sioux City, IA too. Their Malloy, a woodworking tool repair shop, Wyntronics electric supply company, and they all gave the same answer. Unfortunately I doubt HD will help me CMan, I bought the saw 3-4 years ago and it's about two models discontinued ago. I also don't think I'm in LSA territory here since I am the one who broke the switch somehow (probably bumped it agains the wall when I was putting it away). I have tried to do the Bic pen thing and it didn't work. I have it bypassed for now and am going very easy for the moment but I'll keep looking. My issue is I need it to pop at 40 C and I haven't seen one yet that's in that range. Also the motor is 13 amp so I worry about putting a 15 amp thermal fuse on it since it might not trip in time. What a mess. I'm going to run down some leads you've given me and go from there. Thanks again guys! 

I think I'll buy some lotto tickets too. I might have more luck there and I can get a new saw that way.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Maybe this one*

40 degrees Cent is 105 F this switch works down to 115 F, just a few degrees warmer. Maybe? http://cgi.ebay.com/THERM-O-DISC-TO...871?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b33b596f


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Oh, my bad. 40 C is continous. tripping should be 105-120 degrees C. 

Sorry about that.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> *Why not use a fuse like this*
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103774
> 
> These are standard automotive spade lug fuses. They can be mounted in a fuse holder or pigtailed in to the circuit on one leg. There are also resettable ones: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d28.html
> ...





woodnthings said:


> *I found a 120 reset switch
> *This one sounds good:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Boat...2981531QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear
> bill





woodnthings said:


> *Maybe this one
> *40 degrees Cent is 105 F this switch works down to 115 F, just a few degrees warmer. Maybe? http://cgi.ebay.com/THERM-O-DISC-TOD...item35b33b596f


Bill had a few suggestions. I'm bettin' he's gonna hit on one yet.:yes: Another gold star






for trying. He's up to 2 now. :yes:














 







.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Thanks, but I have my reasons....*

The thermal overload switches on the Craftsman 10" RAS ...little red button...tripped numerous times while ripping the Cypress 1 x 12's Feed pressure was not excessive. larger power cord helped, new rip blade helped, but once we had to go to breakfast and get a hair cut before it would reset....:thumbdown: so I'm just preparing for a catastrophic failure. I might need one myself., but I can still try to help a brother.
I just bought another 12" RAS for $50.00 yesterday...cheaper than reset switches, you know?  bill


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

did anyone find a solution to this problem? I have the EXACT same problem with my TS3650 table saw that I have JUST purchased used and cannot find the switch ANYWHERE!!! I'll paypal someone $$$ to find me the solution.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Modfyd said:


> did anyone find a solution to this problem? I have the EXACT same problem with my TS3650 table saw that I have JUST purchased used and cannot find the switch ANYWHERE!!! I'll paypal someone $$$ to find me the solution.


What switch are you referring to? Your saw motor has an integral overload with a reset button. Is that what is tripping or do you have a bad switch?

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/141102/Ridgid-Ts3650.html?page=14#manual


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

Alchymist said:


> What switch are you referring to? Your saw motor has an integral overload with a reset button. Is that what is tripping or do you have a bad switch?
> 
> http://www.manualslib.com/manual/141102/Ridgid-Ts3650.html?page=14#manual



That reset button on the diagram broke into pieces literally. All i need is that button.


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

wondering if this will work even though it's single pole instead of dual pole? (like the factory one seems to be): http://www.grainger.com/product/CARLING-TECHNOLOGIES-Circuit-Breaker-4VA73


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

I know this is a long shot but check out a grizzly catalog the big one several hundred pages. They have parts In that cat. that are several times less and in cost switch for my Powermatic lathe $20.00 plus cost through grizzly $6.50 same numbers on inside of switch. Just a thought

Jerry


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

I emailed the manufacturer of the Thermal Button, which happens to be Klixon by Sensata, to see if they have a button still left over in stock. Or if not, what they sell similar to it. We'll see what happens.


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## vinnypatternmaker (Mar 27, 2011)

*Craftsman?*

Hi!
Since your saw is only a few years old, you might want to see if *Craftsman *branded a similar style...a couple years back?

If that's the case, a Craftsman parts manual may be available, and hopefully the "reset" button will fit, and is still available :yes:!

Sorry, we have no links to offer you (bad PC), but somewhere here we're sure can post good search criteria!

Best of luck,
Marena and Vinny


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

Found a reset button for $54 from:
Steve Cross Electric
Rancho Cucamonga, CA

Had to be special ordered from the manufacturer Klixton? Fitment was perfect and peace of mind restored.


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## papap60 (Sep 6, 2014)

Having the same problem. I called Steve but got answering machine. Will try again Monday.


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

They're closed weekends.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> The thermal overload switches on the Craftsman 10" RAS ...little red button...tripped numerous times while ripping the Cypress 1 x 12's Feed pressure was not excessive. larger power cord helped, new rip blade helped, but once we had to go to breakfast and get a hair cut before it would reset....:thumbdown: so I'm just preparing for a catastrophic failure. I might need one myself., but I can still try to help a brother.
> I just bought another 12" RAS for $50.00 yesterday...cheaper than reset switches, you know?  bill


i have a 36" exhaust fan if i leve it on we will say 1/2 day it may kick the inside thurmal switch , what i do is get my air hose and put the air to it, in a min. or so it reset's and work's again , i bet it would work on the RAS also ?? i would try it on any thurm switch , of course if it trips right a way than it is bad


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## papap60 (Sep 6, 2014)

*Broken*

Th problem we are having. Is the button has broke


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

That is cool. I never found a solution and just wired it to bypass the reset. Been working good for the last three years. Im to the point I don't care if it burns out.


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

Burning the motor scares me because if it burns, you'd have to retrofit a new motor unless you'd like to pay $300+ for a new one. Not for me.


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## papap60 (Sep 6, 2014)

Do you have the sale ticket or item number Steve ordered for you?


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## d_slat (Apr 10, 2012)

Modfyd said:


> Burning the motor scares me because if it burns, you'd have to retrofit a new motor unless you'd like to pay $300+ for a new one. Not for me.


Sounds like a good excuse to upgrade to a better saw. I'm guessing that is why he didn't care.


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

d_slat said:


> Sounds like a good excuse to upgrade to a better saw. I'm guessing that is why he didn't care.


Nope. The saw is good. I just don't see a purpose for replacing a perfectly good saw because of my negligence.


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

papap60 said:


> Do you have the sale ticket or item number Steve ordered for you?


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## papap60 (Sep 6, 2014)

Ok. Thanks. I sent steven the picture.


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