# Mystery box of projects



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Pretty cool old toolbox. I figured it must be worth the 50 bucks. But what's inside?


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Isn't that Al Capone's tool box?


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Brink said:


> Isn't that Al Capone's tool box?


Would that be "who?" then? 

Looks interesting...


----------



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Oh boy! Come on... Spread em on out and let's see!


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Had to tuck the kiddies in. :smile:

Let's untuck these guys. First look at a few.









Who has 17 saws in their toolbox? :blink:


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

*Drill baby drill!*


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

*Da Plane!*

Stanley Bailey #5, #6 and a Sargent 3422 transitional along with what may be a #9 1/2, a block plane body and an extra cutter and chip breaker.


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Odds and ends. The Dake 001 arbor press is a separate score, not part of the tool chest goodies.


----------



## Treeoflifestairs.com (Jan 9, 2012)

It doesn't have a body stuffed in it somewhere too does it?


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

A look inside the empty chest.









Hinged door in the front opened.


----------



## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

Looks well worth $50 to me for the box alone. The rest is gravy. Good score, where'd you find that?


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

CL find. Enough clean-up projects for a while!


----------



## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Wow.


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Wow! Nice haul!

I see your buying local...I think I see eight Richardson bros. saws, maybe nine. That's so cool.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Eggbeaters...cool.









 







.


----------



## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

That there is awesome!


----------



## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

Great find!


----------



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

That IS a great find! Looks like someone has a bit of work ahead of em but some great planes, saws and probably a couple scrapers...


----------



## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

Wow!!!! I just bought an 18" Kennedy Box for $30 and it was empty!!


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Yeah, I'm going to be busy for a while. Need to go back and read some of yall's restore threads for advice. I may actually set up an electrolysis bath. #5 tote is broken and I may make a new one. One of the saw handles is split and I may take a crack at making a new one of those too. The big egg beater is completely frozen but hopefully with some rust removal I can get that working. I'll try to make a handle for the mallet head. Not sure what I need to get that scraper working. It's only the handle.

Anyone know if those are star bits in the middle of the odds and ends picture? Looks like they get used in some sort of driver I don't have.

Is there any way to tell what grit those stones are? Not sure if they are oil or water.


----------



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I'll suggest it one more time then hold my peace again for a while... Evaporust will clean those planes up well and free up the Yankee drill parts. My big problem with electrolysis ESPECIALLY for tools like that Yankee drill is that it's not removing rust, IT'S REMOVING IRON/STEEL.... The rust floats off and it looks shiny clean because it's like sand blasting it and removing a layer of metal. That means small parts can really suffer from that technique. This is the same concern with acid baths. Evaporust reacts only with iron oxide so it's safer.

...back to my cave...


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Shop Dad said:


> Anyone know if those are star bits in the middle of the odds and ends picture? Looks like they get used in some sort of driver I don't have.
> 
> .


I don't see a scraper. I see what looks like a #51 spokeshave.

The star bits are concrete drills. I never saw them with square shanks, unless it's for a handle. They get struck with a hammer, rotated 1/8 turn, hit again, rotate....


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

firemedic said:


> I'll suggest it one more time then hold my peace again for a while... Evaporust will clean those planes up well and free up the Yankee drill parts. My big problem with electrolysis ESPECIALLY for tools like that Yankee drill is that it's not removing rust, IT'S REMOVING IRON/STEEL.... The rust floats off and it looks shiny clean because it's like sand blasting it and removing a layer of metal. That means small parts can really suffer from that technique. This is the same concern with acid baths. Evaporust reacts only with iron oxide so it's safer.
> 
> ...back to my cave...


Before you go into your cave...

Maybe I have it wrong, but my impression is that electrolysis uses a similar chemical conversion to Evaporust. My thinking was that this volume of rust would take a substantial amount of Ev. and electrolysis would end up more economical. Solid layer on most of these. I can see how far my current gallon gets me and take it from there.


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Brink said:


> I don't see a scraper. I see what looks like a #51 spokeshave.


Sorry, yes spokeshave! Is it worth trying to make this complete or is it not worth the cost of parts needed (and what are they?)


----------



## CenCal_Sawyer (May 5, 2012)

That's awesome! You just don't see those old toolbox finds in California, or at least I never do. There seems to be a much better tool heritage the further East you are. Probably for the best that way I concentrate on the projects and not the tools, it looks addictive.


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Shop Dad said:


> Sorry, yes spokeshave! Is it worth trying to make this complete or is it not worth the cost of parts needed (and what are they?)


Here's all the parts. Sorry, don't know what prices for replacements.


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Brink said:


> Wow!
> 
> I see your buying local....


What I meant is half those saws are from Newark.


----------



## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

Just got back from town and doing a quick read so sorry if I am overlooking the obvious - but what is missing from the spokeshave? I see a body, cap, cutter. That's all they are supposed to have.


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

After getting some of the crud off a handful it looks like most of them are Disston and at least one Warranted Superior.


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

joesbucketorust said:


> Just got back from town and doing a quick read so sorry if I am overlooking the obvious - but what is missing from the spokeshave? I see a body, cap, cutter. That's all they are supposed to have.


That was Brink's to show me all the parts. I have only the body and see its a #52. 





















Edit: I thought maybe you were boycotting this thread because I used the "e" word!


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

So after looking at some of the little stuff here are some tidbits. The little block plane body is a Stanley N. 220. Has the knob but no frog or cutter. Interestingly it's maroon in color. I have no idea if that was common, repainted or what. Insights? Worth trying to sell?









Then there was the rusty old 2 1/4" plane blade and chip breaker. Looked pretty bad and I was thinking to just throw away. But I noticed it felt pretty hefty so I went ahead and gave it a bath in Evaporust, then scrubbed off the black with a SandFlex block. They are pretty pitted but from what I can tell it's good steel. Anyone know the manufacturer?


----------



## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

Shop Dad said:


> Before you go into your cave...
> 
> Maybe I have it wrong, but my impression is that electrolysis uses a similar chemical conversion to Evaporust. My thinking was that this volume of rust would take a substantial amount of Ev. and electrolysis would end up more economical. Solid layer on most of these. I can see how far my current gallon gets me and take it from there.


---------

With due respects to everybody and Firemedic, my thoughts and study say that Electrolysis is less damaging then a rust remover which I suppose includes Evaporust.

Now this would be an interesting new thread, the pros & Cons of either.

I am not pushing for an argument but those against Electrolysis have not convinced me otherwise. 

Maybe , its because I have had better success with Electrolysis then an Evaporust competitor, which is mainly Phosphoric Acid.

Can some body tell me what the active constituent in Evaporust is , so I do not have to bang on about the benefits of Electrolysis.

Peter


----------



## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Evaporust is completely safe, no phosphoric acid. This link will lead you to the MSDS for it.
http://www.evaporust.com/docs/MSDS%20Evaporust.pdf

This will bring you to their homepage.
http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

I don't work for Evaporust but it certainly has worked well for me. I'm not against Electrolysis either though, this is just easy and clean for me. To each their own for sure.


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I guess no one has comments on the 220 or the old steel.

As far as Evaporust, as ACP says, it's much safer than phosphoric acid or most other rust removal chemicals. Here are some pix of what I've got going on.









The rust becomes a black gunk on the surface.








Here are tools that have been taken out and wiped down to remove most of the black. The chisel and plane cap have been scrubbed with http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/sandflex-blocks-39515/








Here the top star drill has been scrubbed with a sandflex block and the bottom has not. The cutting edge cleaned up nicely with a sharp shine which isn't very visible in this pic. 








You can see the Evaporust in my tub is black. That means it's shot and doesn't have much rust removal strength left. New gallon stands ready to take on the next batch of tools. It's pretty effective and I like that it's as safe as it is.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

*Try comparing the stones to wet-dry paper*

One idea which comes to mind is to take a blade from one of your many new restoration projects, and apply wet-dry paper on flat surface, then review with a 10x lope or magnifying glass.

Take another blade and apply one of the stones. Review with the same lope or glass. You should be able to detect which one has finer lines, representing the grit.

I do not know how close you can get, but it should allow determining which of the stones is coarser vs finer.

This was reply to the earlier comment from Shop Dad about how to determine the grit of the stones.
"Is there any way to tell what grit those stones are? Not sure if they are oil or water."


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Dave Paine said:


> One idea which comes to mind is to take a blade from one of your many new restoration projects, and apply wet-dry paper on flat surface, then review with a 10x lope or magnifying glass.
> 
> Take another blade and apply one of the stones. Review with the same lope or glass. You should be able to detect which one has finer lines, representing the grit.
> 
> I do not know how close you can get, but it should allow determining which of the stones is coarser vs finer.


Wrong thread? :blink:


----------



## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

Shop dad I thought other`s would have answered but not so far.

The back iron is from the sorby family of cuttlers that included Robert, Isac and H sorby all amongst the finest sharp edge tool manufactures of Sheffield UK.

The plane iron itself ? I`V looked for the cuttler Samuel Hearnshaw but drew a blank,the trade mark the boat and the words" Oxford wins" IMHO re fares to the annual boat race on the Themes between Oxford and Cambridge Universities still held today.
May be Hearnshaw was a old Oxford boy IKN.

The weight and width of the plane iron suggests it comes originly from a wooden Plane, possibly a transitional because the plane irons from the old wooden planes usually show marks from miss use IE hitting with a hammer to get it set up in depth and lateral.

The old wooden plane iron where usually laminated there are two schools of thought on why,one it didn't use to much of the expensive cast steel and the other is the heaver steel gave backing to the cast steel and stopped it from flexing in the plane take your choice.

Hope this is of some interest not much fact on the cuttler and mostly guess work really billy.


----------

