# American Elm - the big red X



## Taderrickson (Mar 9, 2014)

In our area, a tree with a big painted on "X" means that the tree has been marked for removal by the electric utility. This is a large American Elm. It measures 40" in diameter at eye level. It should be about 18' to the crotch. The homeowner has managed to convince the utility to leave the main trunk on the property. 

The homeowner has hired me to slab it out for him. :yes::yes:

I've never milled Elm before, so any advice is most welcome. I'm planning on doing the job the weekend of Thanksgiving.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Post pics as you go!!!

Advice:...STRONG BACK!!! I've not cut one....YET!!!!:blink::laughing::shifty:


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I know they are hard like oak.
I've worked with small pieces of it for furniture and won't use it again due do it's toughness. Others might find that a positive.
So your saw is going to be working hard to cut it.


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

I've sawn Elm on my band mill but never one that large. I would have to rip it in half with a chainsaw to fit my mill.

Elm is a hard wood with interlocking grain (tough to split) but in my experience it saws very well when green although I like to let the logs lay for a year or two and spalt before sawing.

Be advised (or advise the homeowner) that it likes to move a lot, both during and after drying. If air drying, I would place plenty of weight on the stack.

Elm also has an unpleasant smell sometimes when milled although it doesn't bother me much.

Even with the negatives, Red Elm renders some striking lumber so it's definitely worth milling. On a 30" log, there should be a lot of the red heartwood, too.


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

Texas Timber used to be the forum expert.
johnep


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## Tom the Sawyer (Sep 4, 2012)

I've only milled a few Red Elm logs but they milled fine on my bandmill. The lumber was quite striking.


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## Taderrickson (Mar 9, 2014)

Man o man, that sure is pretty. I'm really looking forward to doing this job now. 



Tom the Sawyer said:


> I've only milled a few Red Elm logs but they milled fine on my bandmill. The lumber was quite striking.


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

This is a Red Elm and Walnut end table I recently completed. Red Elm is a beautiful wood and very under utilized.


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## Post Oakie (Aug 20, 2013)

I've milled on my band mill, too. Red elm has a lot more color to it than American elm, but you won't know until you slice it open. Most people don't know the difference. As mentioned, it is similar in hardness to oak. Make sure the homeowner has a plan for storing and drying slabs. He won't want to handle those slabs more than once. What thicknes do you plan to cut? You should definitely anchorseal the ends as soon as the tree is cut down (are you going to cut it down, too?).


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## Taderrickson (Mar 9, 2014)

Thanks for the input. The utility company is going to be taking down the tree. I have the AnchorSeal waiting for when the tree comes down. I've recommended milling at 10/4 for stability reasons, any recommendations would be appreciated. As to storing, he has arranged for the wood to be kiln dried. Not sure how he is transporting, or storing before and after. 



Post Oakie said:


> I've milled on my band mill, too. Red elm has a lot more color to it than American elm, but you won't know until you slice it open. Most people don't know the difference. As mentioned, it is similar in hardness to oak. Make sure the homeowner has a plan for storing and drying slabs. He won't want to handle those slabs more than once. What thicknes do you plan to cut? You should definitely anchorseal the ends as soon as the tree is cut down (are you going to cut it down, too?).


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## Tom the Sawyer (Sep 4, 2012)

Woodenhorse,

Very nice job on the table, the walnut really works well with the red elm. Another shot for those not familiar with this species, this is quartersawn grain.


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## marktever (Nov 19, 2014)

*American elm*

I've milled a 30"er with my homemade alaskan mill, no problem, pretty wood. Here's a table I built with it.


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## Taderrickson (Mar 9, 2014)

Tree is on the ground. Went out this afternoon to seal the ends and get some true measurements. It measured 14' long. 47" at the base, and the one visible crotch end is 34". I don't like the way they dropped it...

As you can see in the pictures, the crotch is perpendicular to the ground rather then parallel. I think I can get it rolled with a backhoe. The bigger question is the curve in the tree. 

Would love some advice as to the best way to attack this thing. I'm concerned that the slabs may move given the amount of curve in the log already. Thoughts? Warnings? Suggestions?


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## Taderrickson (Mar 9, 2014)

Another shot


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

First let me say, I'm not a sawyer, but I've helped out at a mill from time to time. So my suggestions may not be worth anything.
I noticed that curve when the tree was standing, so if it's 14' long, I'd make two 7' logs out of it. Cut it where the bend is the largest. 6' and 8', etc. I know a lot of band mill people like to just cut flitches (through and through), but in my opinion it would be a waste. If you have to cut some like that at 10/4, then do only the crotch end. But I would definitely saw the lower log into grade lumber (turn the log).
I would saw the boards just under 5/4 for stablilty reasons as stated.
And get some weight on the stickered pile soon if it's not going to the kiln right away.
Oh yes, as to the differences between American elm and Red elm, A. Elm smells like pi$$ to me and R. Elm smells quite good, or at least better. Once the A. Elm boards dry a bit and looses that initial moisture, you can clearly see it's not Red Elm.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

14'....glutting for punishment.... I just sawed these 8/4 red elm 20" one end and 26" on crotch end at 11'5''....about 160+ lbs each....the rest will be 7-8' long.

Elm is beautiful. mine has some color shifts due to being a blown down tree for ???long.


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