# 5/8" miter bars/miter gauge?



## daviddoria

Continuing to get bitten by this cheap saw:
http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/power_tools/table_saws/BTS12S#

The miter slots are not the standard size. They are 5/8". I haven't been able to find any miter bars that fit this slot. I tried making my own from some birch ply, but they don't seem to slide as well as I'd like. Anyone know where I can get some steel bars with predrilled/tapped holes for attaching jigs?

Thanks,

Dave


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## garryswf

Dave,
I wouldn't go to the bix box stores for something like you need, i normally go to a supplier that deals in different metals. You should be able to find something you need at one of these places. I do feel your pain when it comes to the 5/8" mitre slot.


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## mdlbldrmatt135

If you have a Drill press any 5/8" Cold rolled steel could work. Aluminum would work as well. Just avoid hot rolled as it'll more than likely be undersize. you could also try some UHMW plastic


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## garryswf

Dave,
Is 5/8" the width of the mitre slot? Also what is the depth of the mitre slot?


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## daviddoria

The width is .64" (I'm assuming it's supposed to be 5/8", that's what it says in the specs). The width of the bottom part of the T slot is .86" (probably supposed to be 7/8"). The depth of the slot is 1/4".

Dave


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## garryswf

Dave,
I would try to find a piece of flat bar 5/8"x1/4" in whatever length you choose, myself i would use stainless flatbar. The UHMW plastic would probably work but i would want something with a little more ridigity to it. Isn't that mitre slot a t-slot?


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## daviddoria

Yep, it's a T slot - the dimensions are in a previous post. You don't HAVE to use a T shaped bar in a T-slot though, right? It seems reasonable to find a flat piece of steel, but not a T shaped piece of steel!


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## garryswf

Dave,
To answer your question, no you do not have to use a T-bar in the mitre groove. If you do run on to someone that has the 5/8x1/4 flatbar, myself i would purchase enough to not only make a good mitre gauge but also enough to make a crosscut sled, and any other jig you think you might want to make. I have the Ryobi 10" table top saw that i used before i purchased my Delta and to be honest it worked fine except i couldn't use a dado blade on it because the arbor shaft was to short. Good Luck.


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## PreacherDave

Where were all of you guys when I was researching this saw. I knew I didn't want top of the line, cause it was my first table saw, but I had no idea that adding jigs would be so hard.


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## cabinetman

HD has metal stock in varied lengths in the hardware section. They may have something that would work. For width, .64 is wider than 5/8" (.625).












 







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## Pirate

I wonder if the 5/8" slot could be widened to 3/4"? Being as it's aluminum, it could be done with a router.
Assuming the area isn't hollow!!!
I think the saw is as loud as the lunchbox planer I had a few years ago!
For a cheap saw, it does have a fair amount of power.

I have a BTS 10 saw I picked up at a yard sale for cheap. I mainly use it at the rental house to cut aluminum screen framing for new frames.


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## woodnthings

*This issue has been discussed extensively*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/search.php?searchid=701875&pp=25&page=2

The tabs can be ground off if you have them?
The width of the slot can "possiblly" be widened to 3/4" using a router, straight bit, slow speed, lubricant.... I donno?
Depends on the amount of material which would remain underneath after removing either 1/16" off either side or 1/8" off one side, preferably the side furthest from the blade. 

Search: "fix for Craftsman 5/8" miter slots" or variations of that and see what comes up.  bill


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## PreacherDave

Cabinetman; I checked the local HD for the bar stock. Not a chance. Can't even order it. Might be different elsewhere, though.

Pirate; The tabs CAN be routed off, and the slot can be expanded a bit, but make sure your router is good quality, too. (Another expensive lesson for this beginning woodworker.) If the router is too cheap, it won't hold the bit, so it WILL mess up the table so you have to install a new "slot" where the old one used to be. Learn from my mistakes.:wallbash: {Stupid cheap tools.}


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## knotscott

Did you try any paste wax on the birch ply to help it glide? I'm wondering if solid birch, maple, alder, etc., would work better. 

Here's a simple sled idea:


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## Improv

woodnthings said:


> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/search.php?searchid=701875&pp=25&page=2
> 
> The tabs can be ground off if you have them?
> The width of the slot can "possiblly" be widened to 3/4" using a router, straight bit, slow speed, lubricant.... I donno?
> Depends on the amount of material which would remain underneath after removing either 1/16" off either side or 1/8" off one side, preferably the side furthest from the blade.
> 
> Search: "fix for Craftsman 5/8" miter slots" or variations of that and see what comes up.  bill


Why mess with a factory 'installed' miter? If both miters are used simultaneously, a guide smaller than the slot can be used against the outside/inside edges. 

Having owned a Ryobi TS and searched for 5/8" bar, it is not a commonly stocked size. I did find it at http://www.mcmaster.com/# but never order personally from there as I got a CL deal on a new TS (used that company at a lab I worked though)

Regards,
Steve


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## Pirate

How about clamping a saw guide to the top, and using a circular saw, to widen the slots?

Or sell it and buy a real saw!


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## woodnthings

*suggested above*

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-sheets/=eg3q7b
I've used these folks and they are great to order from and no questions return. :thumbsup: bill
I've also used a carbide saw blade to cut thick aluminum...very shallow cuts, very cautiously, until I reached the desired depth.


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