# Glueing Laminate to wood what to use?



## tito5 (Apr 5, 2011)

I am building a router table and want to glue a sheet of plastic Laminate aka counter top material to both MDF(the table top) and either plywood and or hardwood (the router fence). 
What is the best process for doing this, and what type of adhesive would be the best to use? Should I cut the pieces to size first then glue the laminate on, or should I cut the pieces oversize glue the laminate on and then cut to size? The table will be stored out in my garage which is not temperature controlled so it can get to below freezing in the winters, and above 110 in the summers. 
Thanks
Tito


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Contact cement.
It may take more than 1 application if the glue is soaking into your substrate.
Apply laminate oversize, trim with flush cut router bit. :smile:


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## joek30296 (Dec 16, 2009)

Ditto what Scott said. Cut pieces to size, cut laminate oversize and trim with flush trim router bit. 
It's a piece of cake to do.

joe


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## BigBull (Feb 10, 2010)

I'm sure you know this, but you should make sure you clamp / press the Laminate to the wood / MDF for best results.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

BigBull said:


> I'm sure you know this, but you should make sure you clamp / press the Laminate to the wood / MDF for best results.


 
Contact cement is an instant bond, use a laminate roller. :smile:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

To make it easier to apply the HPL, once the glue is dry, use small strips of wood placed about 8-10 inches apart placed all the way across. Make the sticks longer than the top is wide so one end of the stick will extend out the front so it will be easy to remove. Lay the HPL onto the sticks, position the HPL and start by pulling a stick at a time out. The HPL will stick down and you can continue until all sticks are removed.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jiju1943 said:


> To make it easier to apply the HPL, once the glue is dry, use small strips of wood placed about 8-10 inches apart placed all the way across. Make the sticks longer than the top is wide so one end of the stick will extend out the front so it will be easy to remove. Lay the HPL onto the sticks, position the HPL and start by pulling a stick at a time out. The HPL will stick down and you can continue until all sticks are removed.


+1. I use 1/2" dowel rods...less wood contact. I would add, before positioning the sheet on top of your sticks/dowels, check the substrate and the back of the laminate for ANY debris. Anything present can leave a bump once laminated. Before pulling any sticks/dowels out, make sure the piece is aligned where there's overhang (I usually leave 1/4", but you can leave what makes you comfortable), and gently pull out the middle stick/dowel first, and press down. this will fix the sheet. as you pull out from the center, press down from the center out to remove any air that can get trapped.

If you don't have a "J" roller, you can use the edge of a block of wood and press hard, or a block of wood and a hammer will certainly pound it down.












 







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## tito5 (Apr 5, 2011)

found this online....basically seconds all of your tips....
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/PortablePowerTools/InstallingLaminate/


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Darn, I can't add anything 

Oh, wait...lots of ventilation with contact cement, it'll make you loopy.


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## tito5 (Apr 5, 2011)

Well went to the store tonight and got the cement, j roller, and flush trim router bit. hopefully over the weekend I will be able to try this stuff out. it is the next part that makes me nervous.......cutting the hole for the router plate!!!!


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

Contact cement is best (red lable stuff you can't buy in California) if your working fast. If you don't know what your doing use hybond it's white and milky sort of. It gives you a longer working time. It's waaaay more forgiving then contact cement. If you screw up don't panic use a heat gun and peal it back up just make sure to clean all the buggers.


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## Eddie (Dec 20, 2008)

*Before you apply the laminate to your substrate, cut the router plate hole out first, it will make it much easier to cut out later. Drill a 1/2' or 3/4' hole and insert your trim bit and follow the cut out pattern. 
*


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## jredburn (Feb 20, 2011)

*Glueing Laminate*

Tito,
Take a bar of paraffin (from the grocery store) and rub it on the sticks that you put on the work surface. It keeps the laminate and the wood from sticking to the pull sticks.

Once the laminate is caught in the middle, start rubbing with the roller and roll to the edges. This moves the air bubbles out from under the laminate.

If you screw up, lacquer thinner will dissolve the contact 
cement quickly. Just squirt a little into the seam and it will come apart.
If you do get a lump of something under the laminate, take a hacksaw blade and grind a hook in the end, push the blade in under the laminate and hook the lump. It should pull right out.
regards
the other Joe


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jredburn said:


> Tito,
> Take a bar of paraffin (from the grocery store) and rub it on the sticks that you put on the work surface. It keeps the laminate and the wood from sticking to the pull sticks.
> 
> Joe


Where did you get this bit of information? Doing that will deposit paraffin (wax) on either the substrate or the laminate or both and keep the bond from working. Or, will contaminate the bond causing it to fail. I wouldn't do it or suggest it.












 







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