# table saw oops.



## RDufner (Jun 23, 2011)

well... I did it, I let my guard down while using my table saw. Luckily I only experienced kick back. I was ripping a piece of masonite and the smaller piece shot right back into my thumb. Instantly i thought i had done the big one. I shut the saw down and inspected my damage. i think what happened was the piece broke free before the blade finished the cut, lifted up, and spun into my thumb nail, which is now about half black. lessoned learned I guess.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Well you got lucky. 
It's a lesson learned. Maybe you can tell your wife what happened & you can convince her to let you buy the saw stop for safety. Heeheehee hahahahaha


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RDufner said:


> well... I did it, I let my guard down while using my table saw. Luckily I only experienced kick back. I was ripping a piece of masonite and the smaller piece shot right back into my thumb. Instantly i thought i had done the big one. I shut the saw down and inspected my damage. i think what happened was the piece broke free before the blade finished the cut, lifted up, and spun into my thumb nail, which is now about half black. lessoned learned I guess.


Did you have the blade guard on?










 







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## RDufner (Jun 23, 2011)

there is no guard on my saw, the one it came with was broken and i never replaced it. I know that's pretty stupid but...
I'm on more than a tight budget and a new saw or parts for this one is just not in the cards.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RDufner said:


> there is no guard on my saw, the one it came with was broken and i never replaced it. I know that's pretty stupid but...
> I'm on more than a tight budget and a new saw or parts for this one is just not in the cards.


Your close call was just a warning. Maybe you should equip your saw with the proper safety equipment, or just don't use it. Sorry to hear you had the crap scared outta ya, but it's the "I told ya so" applies. 

If I have an accident with the safety equipment missing or removed, whatever happens is entirely my fault, and attributed to my taking that risk. I've got to ask, what are your fingers, or eyes worth? Whatever the cost of a guard would be is a drop in the bucket for the loss of a finger, or fingers, or your eyesight. Yeah, pieces can fly anywhere.

Your post didn't sound like a safety warning, or a reminder. 










 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*broken? how so?*



RDufner said:


> there is no guard on my saw, the one it came with was broken and i never replaced it. I know that's pretty stupid but...
> *I'm on more than a tight budget and a new saw or parts for this one is just not in the cards*.


Post up a picture of the critter and let's see what can be done.  If it just the plastic cover then that's not too difficult, even scavenge from another saw? If it's a metal casting or weldment that's a bit tougher, but doable. 

I use my splitter almost 100% of the time which will prevent your issue almost 100% of the time. Can you use the splitter without the plastic cover? :blink: bill


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## gstanfield (Dec 23, 2011)

Now you guys have me feeling pretty dumb. I've used table saws for years and I've never owned one with a guard on it. It's not that I'm against them, but I just don't have one and my second hand saw (nor my Dad's old TSs) did not come with one. 

Are there any out there that can be retrofit to an offbrand TS? Is it something that can be built? 

Sorry to hijack the thread, but it seemed like a good place to ask.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

gstanfield said:


> Now you guys have me feeling pretty dumb. I've used table saws for years and I've never owned one with a guard on it. It's not that I'm against them, but I just don't have one and my second hand saw (nor my Dad's old TSs) did not come with one.
> 
> Are there any out there that can be retrofit to an offbrand TS? Is it something that can be built?
> 
> Sorry to hijack the thread, but it seemed like a good place to ask.


http://www.leestyron.com/










 







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## tgwoodworks (Jan 6, 2012)

I feel pretty stupid too! I just traded in my sawstop for a 12" slider. I couldn't afford the downtime any longer. I had 6 miss fires of the stop mechanism in the past 10 months. The saw would be down for up to a week waiting on a replacement cartridge. Started stocking an extra cartridge for the miss fires. There is an option on the ss to turn the safety device off if your cutting something conductive, but I never turned it off and had all my miss fires happen in white oak. Since white oak is my primary wood I use this was a real hassel. I finally threw in the towel on the saw and just traded it in. I am not advocating the removal of safety devices, but in my opinion, I don't need much more than a decent riving knife. 

An easy option for people with older saws is a splitter in the throat insert. Very easy to make, very effective at eliminating kick back, and virtually free.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*that's incredible*

who wooda thought? :blink: bill


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

tgwoodworks said:


> .........
> An easy option for people with older saws is a splitter in the throat insert. Very easy to make, very effective at eliminating kick back, and virtually free.


+1. Adds a lot of safety, easy to make and free so there are no excuses for not making one.


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## RDufner (Jun 23, 2011)

I'm having a lot of trouble posting pics, I got a new camera and it's 14 mp it keep saying my file size is too large. I tried resizing it but it still say the file is the same size any idears???


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I had that problem too*

I switched to a cheaper camera. You can also control the megapix size of your camera in the menu. Back off to 5 MP for photos for this forum and you probably won't have a problem

In the mean time you need a photo resizing program. I use http://www.getpaint.net/download.html It's free. There are others. The maximum jpeg size here is 19.5 KB or 620 w x 450 high if you need to enter dimensions.

 bill


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## RDufner (Jun 23, 2011)

I'll give it a whirl later on tonight.


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## RDufner (Jun 23, 2011)

try that
now that i look at it a little more, the silver part, is that the riving knife and could i use just that, the way that this guard mounts would only be good for rips, i would be able to to do anything else, excuse my ignorance on terms but cuttin rabbits (slots) in boards would not be possible, what to do?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*use the splitter without the guard!*

By all means use that splitter. That plastic cover/guard looks like a generic part and other saws would use the same piece. Try www.searspartsdirect.com with a model number fro a newer saw if can't use yours. Try Craftsman 22114 parts should be available. :blink: bill


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## RDufner (Jun 23, 2011)

so i would have to take it off to make other types of cuts other than ripping? serious question


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yes*

Any cut that's stopped or not full depth through the wood. Dadoes also of course. 
What you have there is a "splitter" not a riving knife.
Check E Bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-1...440?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc09acdb8

It's newer cousin is a riving knife which tilts and rises as you raise or lower the blade...big improvement!
There are aftermarket versions, Bork riving knife. 
http://community.woodmagazine.com/t...t-Retrofit-Riving-Knife-Does-Exist/ba-p/41357

others like this:
http://www.leestyron.com/sharksplitter.php

search riving knife:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=ytff1-tyc7&va=riving+knife


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## RDufner (Jun 23, 2011)

can a riving knife be installed all my saw?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RDufner said:


> can a riving knife be installed all my saw?


It's possible, but I would be more concerned about getting a guard/splitter on the saw.










 







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## RDufner (Jun 23, 2011)

Cman I admire your dedication to proper shop safety.:thumbsup: I'm sure that, that is something that will come with more experience. I do my best with what I have. I know the cost of a proper piece of equipment is less than the cost of a new finger, but unfortuneately I cannot afford to replace either one. I think I have a healthy respect for my tools and the table saw in particular. hopefully some day I'll have the money for a new saw. In writing these posts I keep wanting to say that I can use my saw the way it is without incident but none of us really know if we can. I will definitely install the splitter if I know I will be making through cuts. I am just starting out into wood working and it is still a learning experience. thankyou Cman for sharing your knowlege. I also believe that this kickback experience will make me more aware of what is happening on my saw.


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## jlsanborn (Jan 11, 2012)

I know I'll get hammered here, BUT..... I feel that the splitter/gaurd you have there is going to be more dangerous than nothing at all. It's one thing if your ripping long boards, but as soon as you're dealing with smaller pieces you can't see what you're doing and you'll get into a jam and fumble. That older style is such a PITA to put on and take off that you'll probably ditch it after your first attempt to use it. It's important to not have excessive blade height. You also must have solid control of your piece with a push stick or block and keep your digits clear. Stand to the side of the cutting line or where the piece may come back at you. Wear safety glasses. A knee switch is also a nice feature if you do wind up in a bind. A homemade zero clearance throat plate is also much safer. Consider other tools when making smaller cuts too. Modern chop-saws are awesome.
That machine is probably the most dangerous thing in your shop next to a chainsaw. You've obviously witnessed the bite and have found new respect. Think about what you're doing and common sense is the BEST safety feature for any dangerous tool. That kind of thinking will also produce finer results in your projects.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I have the old style splitter also*

It is a PAIN to remove and then realign again accurately in my case. What I would suggest is a new throat plate and a Micro-Jig Splitter which is easily removed. They come in different thicknesses to match your blade or kerf thickness.
These: Amazon.com: Micro Jig Splitter-1/8" Kerf: Home Improvement


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A micro-jig splitter can only be used for 90 degree cuts. Some kickbacks can be attributed to where the blade enters the stock...which is the front of the blade. At low level blade height, the blade has an upward force, which can lift the stock, and that would have nothing to do with that type of splitter, or a riving knife.

In the event of a kickback being attributed to that circumstance, stock can be shot at the operator, and could likely clear the bottom edge of a blade guard. This phenomenon is not all that rare. A blade guard still does what its supposed to do. Protecting fingers and hands from the blade (hopefully), and acting as a restraint for upward moving stock, that has the momentum to be directed at the operator. 










 







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