# Finding discontinued parts for Craftsman Miter Saw



## Mary Wiens Palmer (Dec 15, 2018)

Any advice on finding parts for a Craftsman Miter Saw Model 315212120? I'm looking for part of the blade assembly .... Part Number: 980270-001 and Part Number: 980288-001....the washers that hold the blade on securely. Sears Parts Direct have been no help nor has ereplacementparts.com. The washers are discontinued and the replacements that they sent that were supposed to work are nothing close to correct. Pictures are what they are supposed to look like. Thanks


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## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


Your best shot is eBay or by a used one on Craigslist for spare parts.


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## ducbsa (Jul 6, 2014)

The dimensions may be common to other current Sears saws. This is for a current saw, maybe their customer service can tell you the dimensions and you can see if it will work on your saw?

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/X3R9/0009/137.html?modelNumber=137212360&categoryName=Miter%20Saw&brandName=CRAFTSMAN


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It doesn't have to be a part specific washer. Any washer from any brand of saw or table saw will work. It just needs to have a 5/8" arbor hole. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-...=item3fb453ba71:g:z~IAAOSwJRxbLewv:rk:19:pf:0 The arbor nuts are a different story.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Nope!*



Steve Neul said:


> It doesn't have to be a part specific washer. Any washer from any brand of saw or table saw will work. It just needs to have a 5/8" arbor hole. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-...=item3fb453ba71:g:z~IAAOSwJRxbLewv:rk:19:pf:0 The arbor nuts are a different story.


If those photos are correct, the hole is not round, but elongated with flats. :|


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> If those photos are correct, the hole is not round, but elongated with flats. :|


The round holes would still work.


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## daiboy (Aug 9, 2019)

Hi - just found this post and was wondering if you ever found a replacement or substitute for this part? I'm looking for the same thing. Thanks


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

First the post is almost 8 months old. And by a one post wonder. . . 

Second, the model number seems to be wrong. Typically the sears model number scheme is three numbers a period followed by other numbers. The first three numbers identify the OEM manufacturer of the tool. If I had to guess, the number would be *1*13. mumble mumble. The manufacturer for 113 is Emerson Electric. If you contact them directly with a sob story and an offer of a bottle of adult beverage they might just go digging and find the part for you.

Just thinking about it, IIRC my DeWalt SCMS has a similar washer. You might try taking the washer to a DeWalt factory service store and see if theirs will fit.

That's my $0.32 for the day.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I am surprised to see so much demand for these washers. What happens to them, where everyone needs replacements? 

Do they crack or do they get lost?


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## daiboy (Aug 9, 2019)

NoThankyou said:


> First the post is almost 8 months old. And by a one post wonder. . .
> 
> Second, the model number seems to be wrong. Typically the sears model number scheme is three numbers a period followed by other numbers. The first three numbers identify the OEM manufacturer of the tool. If I had to guess, the number would be *1*13. mumble mumble. The manufacturer for 113 is Emerson Electric. If you contact them directly with a sob story and an offer of a bottle of adult beverage they might just go digging and find the part for you.
> 
> ...


My saw's model number is 315.212240. One of the washer's is a laser sight and the washer that I need to replace, mates up with it has a broken inner lip. You can see in the picture. Most of the washers I've seen don't have that lip. I've got a couple slotted washers that would work if I wanted to ditch the laser, but then I'd need to find a shorter bolt with the proper head... :wallbash:


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

Tool Agnostic said:


> I am surprised to see so much demand for these washers. What happens to them, where everyone needs replacements?
> 
> Do they crack or do they get lost?


Can't get lost if there is a picture. . . . . . LOL


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Two choices ... maybe three...*

Ditch the laser.


Get a different laser:
https://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-LG-R0...t=&hvlocphy=9016999&hvtargid=pla-489430636447


Machine a rib shaped ring and braze it on then true it back up in a metal lathe..... Machine away the rib and create a recess and press in a new ring shape rib.



:vs_cool:


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

woodnthings said:


> Ditch the laser.


OK, I use my SCMS for woodworking and not construction. I spent about $70 for a laser attachment many years ago. In the work shop, that was one of the dumber things that I've ever done. 

The width of the laser beam is close to 1/8 inch wide. The beam is located somewhere near the left side of the blade but ignores the set of the teeth on the blade. I found it so much easier to lower the non spinning blade and locate a tooth with left side set on the cut mark, position the stock, raise the blade, turn on and cut. 

I gave the laser away to someone who swears it is the worst thing he ever did in his shop by installing the laser on his saw.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

My spouse has a cheap Craftsman non-sliding compound miter saw with a built-in laser. Lasers seem like such a good idea in theory, but they don't work as well in practice. We removed the laser batteries from the miter saw years ago, to prevent them from leaking. Lasers on miter saws are nearly useless. Few miter saws have two lasers, so most can show only one side of the cut. 

We do the same thing as @NoThankyou: Bring the unpowered blade down to line up the work with the carbide teeth, raise the blade, turn on the saw, make the cut. The blade tells the true story about what will happen, not the laser. The method is both fast and accurate. Who needs a laser?

Yesterday I spent an hour chopping wood on the miter saw. I used a measured stick to line up the cuts. I held the unpowered blade down, pressed the stick against the right side of the teeth in the blade, matched the ends on the right side of the saw, removed the stick, made the cut. Repeat. The last cut on each board was made in reverse using the left side of the blade, so I could hold the longer work piece against the fence with my left hand while chopping off the small remaining waste on the right side. The laser on our saw could have been lined up for the right side cuts or the left side cut, but not both at the same time. I suppose that some people line up the laser in the middle of the blade and adjust in their head. 

Allow me to remind everyone to check and adjust their miter saws for accuracy. I tend to pay more attention to the table saw and neglect the miter saw. The table saw stays good, but the cheap miter saw goes inaccurate when it sits, parked.


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