# Better 'Tung oil' finish



## Shannon (Jun 5, 2010)

I've read how there is a big difference, ingredients wise, in real 100% tung oil and the mixes that are called tung oil, such as Behr's Scandinavian tung oil. But performance wise, how big of a difference is there? 

And further more, which would be best for my application. I'm working on a bathroom counter top. I used Koomaroo (sp?), which is as hard as my head, so I don't think scratch resistance will matter. Also, I'm in no hurry, so the extended drying time of 100% isn't an issue. I guess my biggest concern is protecting against bathroom girly chemical spills. The high density of the wood might make that a non-issue as well. Not sure there. 

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!


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## BIGVIN (Jul 21, 2009)

Waterlox $$$$


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A straight oil finish will offer little protection. The "Tung oil" finishes may not even have Tung oil in the mix. It could be Soy oil. Your best bet would be to use a film finish.












 





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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

BIGVIN said:


> Waterlox $$$$


+1:thumbsup:


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## Shannon (Jun 5, 2010)

Thanks guys! Waterlox is on the way.


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## mrbentontoyou (Aug 3, 2010)

*already been ordered but...*

+3 on waterlox.

it is tung oil based.

cabinetman is correct, "tung oil finish" is like "cheez". it often ain't tung oil, and it often ain't cheese.

kind of like "teak oil".
it contains no ingredients that have anything to do with teak.


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## Shannon (Jun 5, 2010)

I've read a lot of good articles about the evolution of mislabeled finishes. Really, I could care less what it's called. I'm just looking for performance. If a barely tung oil concoction is better than the real thing, that's good enough for me.

Thanks for all the input! Package just got to my door. I'll be slopping on the Waterlox in a few hours.


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## mrbentontoyou (Aug 3, 2010)

some advice for the waterlox- 

as you use it try to keep transferring it to smaller and smaller airtight containers. it cures with exposure to air (or oxygen) and a half full can will start to cure. I've seen gallon cans 2/3's full and solidified. this stuff is too expensive for that! 

I've heard of people using clean marbles or nuts (as in nuts and bolts, not food) in the cans to take up space so there is as little air in the container as possible. 

I blow into the can for a couple seconds and cap it quickly hoping to displace the oxygen rich air in the container before closing it. that may be ridiculously futile but i feel like i'm at least trying...


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