# Newbie ? - Planer or jointer



## Marcus (Jan 25, 2010)

Ok, so I'm new to woodworking so this may be a little basic but I'm just trying to get an understanding......

I've seen all the steps that you need to do to get stock to the "S4S" standard. 

1st - Jointer on one side
2nd - Planer on other side
3rd - jointer on edge
4th - table saw on other edge.

Here's my question, why not just use a jointer on both sides of the stock? I've seen how you can make a sled for the jointer, but even without the sled wouldn't the board come out flat after a few passes through the planer and then flip it over and the other side flat?

Right now I have a whole giant stack of oak that is all rough and will need to be smoothed out and all the other stuff that comes along with preparing stock for projects. Maybe I just don't understand, or I'm just trying to get it done quicker.

Please provide some advice here all you experts and experienced woodworkers! The oak that I have is all free and I have virtually an unlimited supply of it that I can get for free so I'm not going to pass it up. Just have to prepare all of it before doing projects.


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## Marcus (Jan 25, 2010)

And one more thing - I do have a Delta 13" planer (purchased used at a great deal!) but I don't have a jointer. I don't know if I will be able to get a jointer and if I ever do it will most likely be a 6" jointer, not any of the big dog jointers.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Your "theory"...*

Quote:
Here's my question, why not just use a jointer on both sides of the stock? I've seen how you can make a sled for the* jointer*, but even without the sled wouldn't the board come out flat after a few passes through the planer and then flip it over and the other side flat?
You mean *planer*.


There is "flat" and then there is "surfaced parallel to a uniform dimension."
Jointers make boards flat, but will not make* both* surfaces parallel to a uniform dimension, hence the term "thickness planer".
A planer sled will level and support the first surface under the planer knives and repeated passes will make the entire board level and flat. Then the board is removed from the sled and final surfaced based on the opposite side being previously flattened/surfaced.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/planing-long-boards-sled-method-portable-planer-only-15020/
Here's a thread showing a simple planer sled:


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Just my opinion, but I'd take Woodnthings' advice. 
Here is another sled design. http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=5245
However you decide to plane the work, you still need a jointer. Again, just my opinion, but anything larger than a 6" jointer is a waste of space and $$, when flattening 10-12" boards with a sled and planer is so easy.


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## Marcus (Jan 25, 2010)

Gotcha. Thanks woodnthings! I wasn't thinking about it being parallel to the other side!

For the points of simplicity and cost I think I'm going to try the method that juanation posted on.

thanks guys!!


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## thor54 (Jan 15, 2010)

You will want a jointer if you're going to do much woodworking, so just go get one. I have an old 6" jointer and it does everything I need it to do. Picked it up for about 100.00. Watch pawn shops estate sales and auctions.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I agree*

A 6" jointer will be a great addition to a woodshop.
In the meantime a router table and a straight cut bit will also work for edge jointing.
If not that then, a table saw using a "straighting" board along the fence. 
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/gotta-bowed-board-no-jointer-12927/
If not that then a circular saw guided by a aluminum track like a Festool or Eurekazone system, but my preference is still the tablesaw. :thumbsup: bill


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## Marcus (Jan 25, 2010)

I do have a router table, Freud combo 3-1/4 HP and table combo, and I have a 2-1/2 straight bit. Gave it a try over last weekend with nothing special, just wanted to use it and it seemed to come out good.

Would like to get 6" jointer but not in budget at this time......


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## WoodMark (Dec 18, 2009)

I used a shaper with a straight cutter as a jointer some years ago with mixed results. In my opinion, if you are going to edge glue boards together, a jointer is the easiest, fastest way to get it done. With a little fussing over the infeed and outfeed tables, you can even acheive the slight concave edge along the boards length for edge glue ups. The longer the bed on the jointer the better.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I have had a jointer for 25 years. I just purhased a planer 3 years ago and it sat for a year before I even used it. 

A jointer is a very handy tool to use regardless of the type of wood that you purchase. A planer is mostly needed if you do not purchase finished wood.

G


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## Marcus (Jan 25, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> I have had a jointer for 25 years. I just purhased a planer 3 years ago and it sat for a year before I even used it.
> 
> A jointer is a very handy tool to use regardless of the type of wood that you purchase. A planer is mostly needed if you do not purchase finished wood.
> 
> G


Yes George, that's the main reason why I got the planer. Nearly 95% of the wood that I have so far has been unfinished oak. I have nearly an unlimited supply of it from work because all they do is have it hauled off somewhere, and they pay someone to do it. So they tell me that I can take all that I want.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

"finished" boards are rarely the same thickness. Lumber for panels, face fronts and door parts need to be planed to a common thickness. This requires a planer or a thickness sander. 

It's silly to buy s4s material for most woodworking projects as you must size and plane it anyway.

There are several ways to straight edge a board without a jointer.

Get the planer.


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## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

With that access to rough oak, you'll eventually want both.
Personally, I use the jointer a lot more than the planer. I constantly find myself walking towards the jointer for reasons I never imagined.

Since you're not in a hurry to buy, just keep an eye on the used market.


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## seanmacdougal (Feb 5, 2010)

As a machine tool woodworker, I'd select a jointer over a planer if I had to choose. And then I'd choose the best 8-inch jointer, with the longest bed I possibly could. If you're gonna stay a woodworker, save your lunch money and get quality. You'll never regret it.

As a hand tool woodworker, and I did that for four years, I'd choose a planer over a jointer. Sounds odd, but the work involved in removing thickness by hand is considerably more than flattening (for me). I handplane true all boards, even those out of the jointer.

Keep in mind that for some elements of furniture the absolute value of thickness is not terribly important. Flat and even thickness are much more so.


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## WoodMark (Dec 18, 2009)

You could go for a combo machine. Planer and jointer. These style machines seem to be commonplace in Europe.

http://www.felderusa.com/products_details.php?parent=08f95cc19ce57a7b9339&xat_code=f59e94f4bdfa7cd7b892&region=us-us?felder-group=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.feldergroupusa.com%2Fproducts_list.php%3Fsite_id%3D2%26region%3Dus-us%26category%3D08f95cc19ce57a7b9339
http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.ph...category_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=35
Amazon.com: Hitachi P12RA 12-9/32-Inch Planer and 6-1/8-Inch Jointer: Home Improvement


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