# oak and walnut cedar chest



## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

I think this is going to go great with the oak and walnut lamps.


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Here are some more, ill put hinges on tomorrow, finish sanding the cedar, install the trays, and share inside pics.


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## Itchytoe (Dec 17, 2011)

Looks pretty good to me.


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## dbales (Jun 21, 2011)

I really like the contrast in the two woods. Great job, can't wait to see it finished.


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## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

man that looks great!


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Looks sharp. Nice wood choices.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Awesome job Mac. Looks like it matches the fancy bread box.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

man that walnut finish is beautiful. Nice job on this chest!


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

nice work. looks like an oak and walnut chest


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Thanks guys.

Today I worked on the lining, and the lining trim.

It will have a way for small hanging cedar boxes for small items.
This is a customers build, and I am doing what they want, not my choice on some stuff, oh, I do get to display it this weekend when I go to the local fair. So it'll get to sit in my Booth, which might help sell more.





















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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Very nice. Is it a veneered top?

Bret


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Lola Ranch said:


> Very nice. Is it a veneered top?
> 
> Bret


no, its 5/8" thick i resawed from 3 1/2" material then edge glued, 1/2" cedar. all the walnut for the chest came from the same tree to match color.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

oldmacnut said:


> no, its 5/8" thick i resawed from 3 1/2" material then edge glued, 1/2" cedar. all the walnut for the chest came from the same tree to match color.


Are you concerned about the molding running perpendicular to the grain on the top and any wood movement that might occur over time? That much solid walnut can move a lot. Maybe you've planned for it.

Bret


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## Stick (Aug 23, 2007)

Lola Ranch said:


> Are you concerned about the molding running perpendicular to the grain on the top and any wood movement that might occur over time? That much solid walnut can move a lot. Maybe you've planned for it.
> 
> Bret


I'll bite... so what would y'all suggest for this type of top? I'm not a fan of using veneer with a substrate, but understand it's benefits. I'd rather use solid material whenever possible. So... how would you go about "planning" for the movement of the solid top at the end grain where it meets the molding?


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Stick said:


> I'll bite... so what would y'all suggest for this type of top? I'm not a fan of using veneer with a substrate, but understand it's benefits. I'd rather use solid material whenever possible. So... how would you go about "planning" for the movement of the solid top at the end grain where it meets the molding?


I would have designed the molding to be a frame and would have made the top a panel that would float within the frame, a frame and panel construction.

Three things could happen the way it is now:

1. Nothing, everything will be fine.

2. The walnut will shrink across the grain. The short molding on the end grain might come loose or the top might split.

3. The walnut will expand. The short molding will pull away at the mitered corners and it might separate from the end grain.

Bret


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Lola Ranch said:


> I would have designed the molding to be a frame and would have made the top a panel that would float within the frame, a frame and panel construction.
> 
> 
> Bret



Thats what i did, made the panel separate from frame.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Good! I stand corrected then!. Can't see that in photo.

Bret


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## Stick (Aug 23, 2007)

Thank you for the edification. Probably why I don't put molding around my table tops.... just leave 'em showing the endgrain. Framing that top and getting the molding just right sounds tricky...


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Stick said:


> Thank you for the edification. Probably why I don't put molding around my table tops.... just leave 'em showing the endgrain. Framing that top and getting the molding just right sounds tricky...


the top....was a major pain in the butt.

I've been stupid busy past 2 weeks. There is a (for lack of a better term) a monthly swap meat this coming weekend, and I've been trying to pump all sorts of stuff out to sell, plus to display if someone wants to place an order. I've never done something like that before, so naturally I'm a wreck right now.

The cedar chest is an almost exact clone of the one I made for my wife. Solid wood, not 1 piece of plywood, mortise and tenon, no nails/screws/metal of any kind. Walls are 1 1/4" thick if you count the oak, and cedar. The walnut inserts are individual pieces I machined, the cedar is from japan.

Top goes as follows....2" trim piece, walnut top is 5/8" thick book matched, cedar is 1/2" thick. Cedar is tongue and grooved, and placed opposite grain direction of walnut. I glued up the walnut, machined, then glued cedar, then glued the 2 panels together, then assembled into the frame with a dado in frame and panel assembly, using a "key" to hold everything in the tight fit.

The top has been done for 2 months, to allow it to move with the weather, I've flogged that top, in and out of house/shop during various weather changes, it has got no respect from me, and in turn it has proven to be very very stable.

The whole thing.....weighs a metric ton, and has a very solid feel to it.

I want to make another one, but cherry with Birdseye inserts. Maybe I'll make that one for my daughter.

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## Wood85 (Jan 9, 2012)

That is so gorgeous! I would really like to make a chest for the foot of my bed one of these days! Great job, keep up the good work!


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

How did I miss this thread Jim. Very nice work buddy. Looks awesome.


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