# Blocking Face Frame Cabinets



## JLewis (Jan 20, 2021)

Upcoming kitchen renovation (refinishing / painting all cabinets). I'm Installing Blum Blumotion 155 Degree Clip top hinges (71B7650 ) on older 3/8" partial inset cabinet doors (1/2" overlay). In order to use the Blum hinges, I need to block out my cabinets.

What is the best method to attach the blocking to the face frame? Do I screw from the outside in to attach the blocking and countersink the screws? Or glue and screw them from the inside out (seems risky).

Thanks in advance for any info. I've been searching the web but haven't found anything on the best method to attach the blocking.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

why? this picture is a blum hinge, can you use this type?
most of my 20 yr old craftmaid cabinets are like this


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## JLewis (Jan 20, 2021)

I was told because of 3/8” lip on the partial inset that I needed a 155 degree hinge? (The hinge in the picture did not work)


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Right now your doors are 3/8 overlay , correct?


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## JLewis (Jan 20, 2021)

1/2” overlay. Inset lip is 3/8”


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

So you want to block the cabinet enough to allow for the new hinge... you really need a headless pin gun.


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

JLewis said:


> Upcoming kitchen renovation (refinishing / painting all cabinets). I'm Installing Blum Blumotion 155 Degree Clip top hinges (71B7650 ) on older 3/8" partial inset cabinet doors (1/2" overlay). In order to use the Blum hinges, I need to block out my cabinets.
> 
> What is the best method to attach the blocking to the face frame? Do I screw from the outside in to attach the blocking and countersink the screws? Or glue and screw them from the inside out (seems risky).
> 
> ...


It seems you need to pad the ff out by at least the rabbet depth dimension of 3/8". To make it look the best I would make up stock a little thicker than what you need, around 1/2" and make them to the exact width and length of the face frame, doubling up the face frame stiles. I would glue and pin them on. That will make them look like they belong there and not just thrown on. I would try to set the hinge plate to screw into the new stock. It appears from the pics that the ff are made of veneer core plywood, not the best for screw holding when screwing into the side. I do a good number of full inset doors and when using 35mm hinges that is what I do to accept the mounting plates.


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## JLewis (Jan 20, 2021)

B Coll said:


> It seems you need to pad the ff out by at least the rabbet depth dimension of 3/8". To make it look the best I would make up stock a little thicker than what you need, around 1/2" and make them to the exact width and length of the face frame, doubling up the face frame stiles. I would glue and pin them on. That will make them look like they belong there and not just thrown on. I would try to set the hinge plate to screw into the new stock. It appears from the pics that the ff are made of veneer core plywood, not the best for screw holding when screwing into the side. I do a good number of full inset doors and when using 35mm hinges that is what I do to accept the mounting plates.


Great info, thank you. So pin them through the front of the cabinet, correct?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

JLewis said:


> Upcoming kitchen renovation (refinishing / painting all cabinets). I'm Installing Blum Blumotion 155 Degree Clip top hinges (71B7650 ) on older 3/8" partial inset cabinet doors (1/2" overlay). In order to use the Blum hinges, I need to block out my cabinets.
> 
> What is the best method to attach the blocking to the face frame? Do I screw from the outside in to attach the blocking and countersink the screws? Or glue and screw them from the inside out (seems risky).
> 
> ...


Blum makes a special hinge for 3/8" offset doors. No blocking is needed.


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

JLewis said:


> Great info, thank you. So pin them through the front of the cabinet, correct?


No sir. I would pin them through the new stock into the ff from behind. If you have the time you don't even have to pn them, just clamp until the glue dries. That is really all the 23 ga. pins do anyway.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

B Coll said:


> No sir. I would pin them through the new stock into the ff from behind. If you have the time you don't even have to pn them, just clamp until the glue dries. That is really all the 23 ga. pins do anyway.


 Yes, glue is all you need. If you do not have enough clamps do it in shifts. You can remove the clamps in an hour and go to the next install.

George


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