# Dowel Joints 101



## Oldiebutgoodie (Jun 26, 2012)

Just starting out, but I have bonehead question about dowel joints. I have a doweling jig but I can not figure out how to use it across the middle of a board, the cross-tee shelf of a bookcase, for example. I can see how the jig allows for the making of perfectly spaced holes at the ends of a board, but I don't see the correct way to place holes across the middle of a board that are going to line up with the cross board (and then make it level with the shelf end at the other side).

Also, if I am making a book case type object and it will sandwiched in between a header and footer board. Will there be any way to do any of the dowel joints after the project is partially in place which wouldn't allow a cross board to inserted because of the length of the dowels. Do have to build it as a cage with the glueing left open while all the interior boards are inserted, but then I'd have a problem getting the glue into the holes. It would also require a pretty keen measurement to make sure the cage will slip just-right into the aperture without forcing. Is there something I'm not seeing that will allow me to proceed?

Thanks,

:wallbash:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Oldiebutgoodie said:


> Just starting out, but I have bonehead question about dowel joints. I have a doweling jig but I can not figure out how to use it across the middle of a board, the cross-tee shelf of a bookcase, for example. I can see how the jig allows for the making of perfectly spaced holes at the ends of a board, but I don't see the correct way to place holes across the middle of a board that are going to line up with the cross board (and then make it level with the shelf end at the other side).
> 
> Also, if I am making a book case type object and it will sandwiched in between a header and footer board. Will there be any way to do any of the dowel joints after the project is partially in place which wouldn't allow a cross board to inserted because of the length of the dowels. Do have to build it as a cage with the glueing left open while all the interior boards are inserted, but then I'd have a problem getting the glue into the holes. It would also require a pretty keen measurement to make sure the cage will slip just-right into the aperture without forcing. Is there something I'm not seeing that will allow me to proceed?
> 
> ...


I don't know if this will help since you specifically asked about dowels. At the onset of a project I make an assessment about all of the joinery and assembly sequence. I would rarely use dowels for a shelf as you describe. I might go with a blind spline, or a stub tenon, or just a dado.









 







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## Oldiebutgoodie (Jun 26, 2012)

Thanks, so I'm heading into it the wrong way. I can see where the dado would allow the boards to slip in. Which of the three joints are easiest to do with the the least amount of power toolery?

Is the only way to make a dado on a bench saw? Good thing about the dowel was I could use a power drill only, but I guess there would be no way to add the cross boards into the interior of the box.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Oldiebutgoodie said:


> Thanks, so I'm heading into it the wrong way. I can see where the dado would allow the boards to slip in. Which of the three joints are easiest to do with the the least amount of power toolery?
> 
> Is the only way to make a dado on a bench saw? Good thing about the dowel was I could use a power drill only, but I guess there would be no way to add the cross boards into the interior of the box.


All three can be done with a handheld router and appropriate bits. As for which is easiest, once set up, they are all easy.









 







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