# Splitting log for Quarter Sawing



## Drew Pavlak (Aug 21, 2010)

Hello all,

A while back I posted some pics of some logs that I was going to need to split and I got some good advice, but I don't think it went as well as it could have gone.

The first thing we did was cut the log down the length with my dads Husky (model 162 w/20"bar and chain) on one side only and then started driving some wedges. Needless to say we got it apart, but it didn't want to split all the way through the pith, kinda of went off at an angle. See Pic 1. Is this just the way it goes or could I have done something different? This was the base of the tree (first log from stump up 6') if that has anything to do with it.

The second split we tried to cut half way down the log length, but from both sides so that we had a through cut half way down. Problems there was we didn't ger the cuts matched up and then trying to split it we had pieces criss-crossing and that just made it difficult to get it apart. How do some of you match up your cuts when trying to cut a log in half? Is it just a bigger Bar and Chain? 

Any comments would be appreciated. It took almost 4 hours to get this one log apart and some how I think this is a little excessive, maybe I am wrong as this was the first log I tried to split.

Hopefully I can improve my time. My goal is to make the Olympic Log Splitting Team for 2012. :laughing:

Thanks,
Drew


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I use a chalk line*

After you run your bar in as far as you want to go, maybe not in full, just saw down around the ends in a little to transfer the cut to the top and then snap a chalk line and just score it with a circ saw or the tip of your bar to keep the line visible. Keeping the bar vertical is the trick and hopefully you were able to do that on the first cut. I've also made some "giant wedges" from hardwood and use cooking spray to lube them when I pound them in. :wallbash: bill


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

Here are couple pointers to consider for your next log splitting adventure. 
1. If possible get both ends of your log off of the ground. 
2. Saw all the way down each end. If it helps you can plum a line on the end of the log as a guide.
3. Climb up on the log and saw length ways from one end to the other.
4. Roll log 180 degrees and saw length ways again.
5. If you have a piece of equipment with forks you can position the log with the but end against something solid (like a tree or pile logs). With the saw kerf at a horizontal to the ground you can push a fork into the end and it should split.

From the picture it looks like you only sawed half way down the ends and did not saw down the length on both sides. Sawing both ends and both lengths makes a big difference when you go to split it. 

There are a whole lot of things that can go wrong here like running your saw into the ground, log rolling, backing off the end of the log while sawing and getting your fork hung or bent. So proceed at your own risk and be careful.


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## Drew Pavlak (Aug 21, 2010)

Mizer and Woodthings-

Thanks for the input, I will try that this weekend and post back hopefully with better times.

Thanks,
Drew


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## Drew Pavlak (Aug 21, 2010)

Well my times didn't much improve.:sad: Oh well, and to make matter worse, when the log split it cracked into the other log so we ended up wasting several boards because they have a crack running through them. :furious:

Live and learn, hopefully everything else we can saw on the mill without haveing to split it.

Drew


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## bugman1954 (Apr 1, 2008)

I quarter saw allmost all my lumber. I use a Boardmaster from Hud-son to make my first cut straight. I've tried freehanding but I need a flat surface for my verticle mill. My quarters ride on gravity roller beds as I feed them through the bandsaw. I tried using my husky with a 20" bar. This wasn't enough power so I purchased a Stilh 046 and put a 36" bar on it. That wasnt really the right solution either. I put the 20" bar on the stihl and use it on the halved logs. I purchased a Stihl MS660 with a 36" bar. This requires some muscle but it is well worth it. 

Looking at your mill in the background, how are you going to hold a quarter cant in the mill to quartersaw it? 

There is a video of my mill in action on another thread under "cheap Sawmill" 



 
I tore down my 10 X 16 shed and am currently breaking ground for my new 24 X 24 woodworking shop. Pictures to follow on a new thread.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Hey bugman*

You've got my dream bandsaw sawmill setup bud. Someone asked what had happened to you lately. Glad to see you are "hardly" working. Them are some big chainsaws. You must be havin' lots of fun! Keep on... Good idea on the separate shop. That will free up your garage! :thumbsup: bill
BTW Do you think a 3HP 19" Grizzly bandsaw would be adequate or does it take all the 5HP on your 21"?


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## bugman1954 (Apr 1, 2008)

It strugles on hard maple and when the boards are 14" wide. I've learned to sharpen my own bandsaw blades so I don't have to send them off now. The 3hp should be ok for short periods of cutting as long as you keep a sharp blade on it. Sometimes I think 5 HP isn't enough. I purchased a 10HP single phase that I am going to install this winter when I am building some furniture. The most bd ft I've cut in a day is around 250. I spend a lot of time flipping the cant back and forth trying to get the best board.


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## buroak (Mar 25, 2010)

try kanting the log first. keep the defects on the corners. come down 1/3 distance of the kant and cut. flip remaining 90 degrees and cut in the middle. resulting in three peices. set them up and start slabing. 90% will pass as quarter sawn lumber.


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