# Staining Poplar



## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

All

I'm building a small wet bar.
I chose poplar for the trim. When I stained it, "blotchy" would be a complement. So, okay, probably not the best choice of wood to start with.
But fortunately, I didn't stain the whole thing, just one end.

So before I do the rest, is there a way to stain the stuff without it getting blotchy?
If not, I'll just paint it. 

Thanks!

-Ric


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

For best results an analine dye mixed with water works better on blotchy woods than oil based stains. If you need to stick with the oil based stain then I recommend using a sanding sealer before staining.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

johnv51 said:


> For best results an analine dye mixed with water works better on blotchy woods than oil based stains. If you need to stick with the oil based stain then I recommend using a sanding sealer before staining.


That's just the problem, I used a stain sealer first (Minwax), and it didn't help.

After getting such bad results on the end of the wet bar, I started working with a piece of scrap. Poplar seems to be VERY absorbent wood! When I applied the sealer, I noticed that it soaked into parts of the wood faster than others. And that corresponds directly to where the blotchyness is.
So I started applying LOTs of the sealer, until it stopped soaking in (at least on 98% of the piece). Then I applied the stain.
It was MUCH better, but I can't imagine applying that much sealer to the whole project. I practically had to soak the stuff in sealer to get the super absorbent areas to stop absorbing so much.

I've read that shellac will work as a sealer. Just apply it, let it dry, and sand with something around a 320 grit paper to remover most of it.

I may give that a try next if no one has any better suggestions. 

This thing is getting close & closer to just getting painted.


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## ~WoodChuck~ (Jan 17, 2009)

for the best results defiantly use a gel stain. The gel stain uses pigment instead of dyes to color the wood. The gel will not penetrate into the wood as does the dye stain, rather it will get clogged in the pores before it penetrates thus less blotchiness. You can also use a wash coat prior to staining which it appears you have done. The only thing with wash coating is that the stain will not be as dark.


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

Gel stains will help, a lot. 

Rather than use a sealer, I generally apply a light cut of shellac before final sanding. I really helps with the final result.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Thank you for all of the tips.
I spent the evening sanding (grinding) the stained wood down so that I can start over tomorrow.

I've seen enough pointers to a coat of shellac & then sand it down that I'll go that way with it. I've seen hints that range from cutting it 5:1 with denatured alcohol, to using it straight! (the tip to use it straight was to coat it, let it dry then sand most of it off with 320, and then stain. I'll admit, his result looked really good, but I suspect I'll thin it down a bit & save myself a lot of sanding. 

BTW: I'll probably not go with gell stains.
I've had to mix some colors to get close to what I was looking for, and if I go to gel now, I'll have to start all that over. I'll hope for good results from the shellac.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

poplar is just a bad choice if you want an even staining. Anything you do to even it out is going to take a lot of time and. Effort.


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## ash123 (Mar 14, 2010)

On blotchy woods like maple, birch, and populus, some people glue size, then lay down an NGR base dye. Toners work pretty well over blotch wood. I'd maybe try glue size, NGR, lacquer stain, toner, then maybe glaze, then finish coats. Finish coats can be toned as well. The glue size is the key. Fixing any damaged areas gets harder with each added process. The best for me is always stain, sealer and top coats . . . but that will not address the blotchy issue. Make all process decisions on sample pieces. Document the processes on the back of the samples and save for future projects and to match as needed.


Edited to add: Be sure to keep all stain samples away from any light source. I wrap samples in cardboard. I found any sample exposed to light will be useless in a relatively short time. Just a fyi.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

If you have spray equipment then you can spray a full clearcoat or sealer on the wood and then spray another coat of tinted lacquer. It is almost like painting, except the mixture of dyes in the clear is transparent so the color will come out very even. You do have to put it on very even or you will get streaking.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Thanks all

The status of this is:
I've done a lot of experimenting with what I have on-hand. (which isn't much). I found that two coats of the Minwax pre-stain sealer, allowed to dry thoroughly provides a good base. Then wipe on the stain with a soft cloth, and little to no pressure, and wiping it off almost immediately. Repeat as necessary to get the desired darkness.
Any excessive pressure, or allowing it to "soak" in promotes the blotching.
I haven't done the final stain on the poplar yet, but plan to today.
I didn't get the chance to work with gel stain on this one. It probably would have been the final cure for the blotchies, but I needed to mix colors to get what I was after, and switching to gel would have meant buying twice the stain, and starting the mix & test cycle all over. I'm still hopeful of getting an acceptable result. The tests are looking promising. It's not fully what I'd wanted, but should still be acceptable.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

back from the dead ... i am considering a new project using poplar, and will want to stain it.

is this "pre-stain sealer" the same as what is called "pre-stain conditioner"

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner

if so, eHow has a page that says you can save money by making your own with two parts mileral spirits and one part poly. 

http://www.ehow.com/how_5912357_make-own-pre_stain-wood-conditioner.html

is that essentially what a pre-stain conditioner/sealer is, and would that work well on poplar?

thanks


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

There's nothing wrong with using poplar for stained work. Furniture companies have been using it as a secondary wood with mahogany and walnut for many years. Once you get the hang of staining it I think you will like it a lot. Using dyes is a good method as well as using a wood conditioner prior to staining.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Thanks, Steve.

So ... would two parts mileral spirits and one part poly be an acceptable substitute for the commercial pre-stain conditioner?


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## fshrmn43 (Apr 2, 2010)

The key to any stain job is in the sanding.....make sure that it is done evenly and I never use a sanding sealer. I always get great results this way.


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## fire65 (Apr 27, 2013)

Sorry to say, Poplar is just not made to stain. I tried a few times, tried prestain, all kinds of prep, It, I would say always look bad, BUT there is always that time that something works.
Then sand and try to putty it, same thing I think about Maple. JMO from where I live and the wood I get. 
Research staining Poplar.


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## Bonka (Mar 24, 2011)

*Pre-conditioner*

Two conditioners work for me. First is hide glue sizing. The second is Charles Neal's "Blotch Control."
I have made several projects with these products applied to poplar and it looks like cherry using a water based dye.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Chris Curl said:


> Thanks, Steve.
> 
> So ... would two parts mileral spirits and one part poly be an acceptable substitute for the commercial pre-stain conditioner?


 You might give it a try. I don't know any reason it wouldn't work. Just tinker with the formula on scraps first. I normally use 50/50 linseed oil and mineral spirits. Sometimes more linseed oil than thinner depending on the wood.


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