# Sanding Blocks



## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

A pet peeve for decades . . . what my shop needed is a good 5 cent sanding block!
I like to have a medium and fine grit "at the ready" and adding to my block count,,, in a soft bottom/plate/shoe as well as a hard bottom. The hard bottom works well for sharp edges, knocking off itty-bitty bumps on the flat, joiner marks, etc. where as the soft bottom is better for rounded things or a more gentle surface pass.
So that's four blocks, and right now I have six - two spares for "special" projects....

Typical blocks sold are plastic with/without metal fittings, wires, bails, whatnot. Big downside is if you rub on something you'll likely to get unwanted marks from the block.
So most people just use some paper wrapped around a chunk of scrap....no?

I formalized that idea. Sandpaper comes in sheets 9 x 11 - half-sheet gets you 9 x 5.5; cut those in half and you get 4.5 x 5.5 - which is the size for most 'quarter sheet' (powered) palm sanders. Bit of an awkward size for hand sanding tho.

Cutting cross pieces from a full sheet produces four 2.75 x 9 - which is a good size for manual work.

The benefits:
- inexpensive - less than a buck for the hardware
- all wood - no marking/transfers. no sharp edges to gouge, etc.
- allows tight fit into 90' corners.
- good hand fit / feel

Pictured are from red oak - full 3/4 inch thick - finished width 2.75 inches x 5.5 inches long. 
Within reason, the length is flexible. A mouse pad makes a good soft bottom / cushion.

Pretty simple/straight forward 'build' - all from scraps (except hardware) After a couple prototypes I settled on this design. I recommend you make a batch while you've got the set-up. a drill press is a big advantage for setting / controlling depth stops on the blind holes. I dislike rust and used stainless hardware.

- Cut bottom and top blanks over sized; mark centers.
- Clamp top and bottom together, bore a small pilot hole thru top piece, but only as a location mark / hole on bottom piece.
- Drill blind hole in bottom for a 1/4 x 20 threadsert fitting (Forstner bit is my choice - do some test pieces because the drill diameter varies (a) by threadsert - they're not all the same and (b) choice of wood makes a big difference. Maple for example is tough threading and may require a slightly larger hole.)
- While the forstner is chucked I did a shallow counter bore on the underside of the top piece to ensures good clearance for the threadsert and a good clamp on the sand paper.








1/4-20 x 1" cap screws used to hold the top&bottom together. Again a Forstner bit (size to fit the 1/4-20 cap screw head) drill a blind countersunk hole bit bit less than 1/2" deep. 
I use a #10 washer under the cap screw so the wood is not crushed / dimensionally changed over time. I like to leave the cap screw just a bit proud of the top surface for tactal feed back in use.

A vice is handy to clamp the bottom plate white turning in the threadserts. 
Did a home spun jig to keep the threadserts plumb - btw, the washer between the threadsert and the double nut arrangement was a happen accident - it prevents the double nuts and the threadsert from locking up too tight and makes the bolt extraction process much easier.

Assemble the top and bottom snugly with the cap screw, then from the bottom, drill thru the bottom and half way thru the top for a locator pin. Space the pin about 1.25 inches from the end of the block so the paper has ample clearance to wrap around.

Pins made from a sharpened 16d nail - cut to length (just shy of 1.25 inches) - points blunted and butt end smoothed. The bottom hole should provide a very snug friction fit on the nail diameter. Drive pin into bottom plate flush / set just a smidge below the surface.

Disassemble and drill a larger hole in the top piece, from the bottom, to provide clearance for the locator pin. (Note: when clamped, things stay in place with no issue; the locator pin might not be necessary . . .)

Although the blocks are essentially "all the same" I did not take great pains to make parts interchangeable - so each is numbered to avoid mix-ups.

With the pin in place and the top/bottom snugged together, trim the edges flush and to size on the table saw. Round/smooth the top plate edges and corners. these are left 'unfinished' to avoid any rub-off.








Don'tcha just hate the hassle of trying to get the sandpaper stuck in the right place/slots/grooves on the block? . . . and then measuring & cutting the paper to size . . . 
But Wait! There's More!

The paper mounts by wrapping around the ends, over the top of the bottom plate, and is clamped in place by tighteing the cap screw. Keeping things convenient, I splurged on a 3/16" T-handle hex key which keeps itself handy in a purpose drilled hole in the work bench leg.

Up next is a cutting / mounting jig. Our youngest daughter has taken up hobby wood working, so the picture is her Christmas present. It's prettier than my own shop model - which is a tad beat-up looking having been through three prototype phases.

There's a stop batten on the left; with finger hole access. The first aluminum strip to the right is set to cut at 2.75 inches. The second (1" wide) aluminum strip cuts 4.5 inches on the left, and 5.5 inches on the right. The bottom fence keeps everything square. This allows me to cut either quarter sheets long (2.75 x 9) or quarter sheets "square" (4.5 x 5.5) for the palm sander.








To mount the 2.75 x 9 on the block, locate the wrap point & crease one end, slide / push the paper and the block bottom into the (spring loaded) jig opening. Fold down the flaps, mount & snug the top down with the cap screw.








One can actual have fun changing sand paper!


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## WeebyWoodWorker (Jun 11, 2017)

Well that awful fancy. I just use a piece of a jamb with one of those sticky random orbital sanding papers on it. But this is very well thought out.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

thanks . . . I have been know to get a tad carried away (g)


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*nice work*

I discovered these by accident or maybe by email blast, I can't remember. They use 3" X 21" maybe a bit pricey... sanding belts, but offer other features I really like. You can rotate the bellt around to get a fresh surface and the lever clamp works easily. Not to steal your thunder, but they work for me after years of sticky paper, staples and cutting full size sheets. Old broken sanding belts with the cloth backing are too stiff to bend around sharp edges, but they are very tear resistant. 
https://www.ptreeusa.com/abrasive_accessories.htm









A Valuable Addition To Every Tool Box!
*Innovative Design*
Multiple sanding surfaces for hard to reach spaces, providing precision sanding results with a flawless finish 
*Clever Lever*
Self-tightening, tool-free exchange of sand paper belt 
*3" x 21″ Sanding Belt *


Common belt size for easy replacement and reuse old sanding belts over and over again
 80 grit cloth backed sanding belt included





























California Residents: Click here for Proposition 65 information.​ Item# Description Price Quantity *10299* *Milescraft® SandDevil 3.0* - 1605​ *$19.99* ​


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

neat idea - bit big for my tastes but certainly useful in some situations.


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## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

For hand sanding, I use sticky 2 3/4" rolls and sanding blocks from dura block, some rubber profiles from lee valley, or some random off cuts of material lying around the shop.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

Yup, sticky rolls and rubber blocks. Any auto paint store has them. For flat sanding I have an old plastic thing that takes a 1/3 sheet.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I INTENSLY DISLIKE those rubber sanding blocks with the flaps and the three nails on each side. They are a pain to load and unload. They leave black marks on the wood. The marks are easy to remove, but why?

I am still on the hunt for a better sanding block. Any suggestions for commercial products would be welcome.

Until then, I have a small block of scrap wood that matches my hand. I hold the sandpaper in place by pinching it on the sides of the block. It is flat and 90 degrees all around. It is easy to change sandpaper, and it doesn't leave black marks.

I like @TomCT2's idea of making a sanding block. My design would be a sandwich of two blocks with three nails protruding from each end of the top block, and matching holes on the bottom block. If I wanted to get fancy, I could add a small hinge on the side, which would keep the two parts together and automatically align the nails and holes when changing sandpaper. (On the other hand, the hinge might get uncomfortable under my fingers.) I could add flutes on the sides to make the grip easier. Hey, what about decorating the top block with inlayed rare woods?


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## marianarlt (Nov 6, 2017)

Interesting concept, like it, but maybe a bit overly complex for what can be really easily made with a scrap piece and a saw. I know the following as a german concept for kids but it's actually a really well thought design, who knows where it came from. You could make two wedges if you feel the backside getting loose. Actually that Milescraft plastic block looks like it was based on something like this with a pressure lever instead of a wedge.


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