# Brad point drill bts



## coffeetime (Dec 28, 2006)

I was thinking of buying a set. When I was looking around online today I ran accross a review about them. I was surprised when the author said that he would not use them very often. His complaint was that due to the little tips on the outside of the cutting edge they overheated very quickly. Now I like the idea of a drill bit that won't wander but I was wondering if this overheat problem is really a problem?
What do you all think about the brad point drill bits?

Mike


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## drcollins804 (Jan 11, 2008)

They don't all have the little tips on the outside. I have a couple of sets and also use a set at work and none of them have these "cutters". I have seen the type that he is referring to and would not purchase a set that were made that way.


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## MrRodeoCC (Mar 15, 2008)

Another thing to be aware of are bits with a lot of twist in them, I bought a set of De-walt Pilot Point Bits and hate them, you have to be really careful, the many twist act like a screw and draw the bit in fast and chunk out your piece. I use them ONLY to get a hole started, and using very little pressure to just get a hole just past the surface then swap to a standard metal cutting bit. I almost threw them in the garbage after ruining a project I was working on, I had to cut new pieces to replace what was ruined.


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## JON BELL (Nov 2, 2007)

I was using a 1/2" brad bit to drill out a dado in maple.It was constantly overheating.Being extremely _impatient _I just kept dunking it in a cup of water.Eventually one of the tips broke off.I just kept using it,no problem.
If I was using them a little I would get good ones.If You're using them alot I would get cheap ones and just run them into the ground and replace.


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## Paul K (Jan 14, 2008)

Mike, I can't say I like mine too much either. Had a set that was garbage, but have had some individual ones I think I bought from Woodcraft or someone, that were pretty good. The IDEA seems like a good one, but they do overheat it seems too easily. If I want that nice smooth hole, Forstner, or if not so perfect, then pilot first and then a twist. Faster than the brad points generally. IMHO
paul


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## Howard Ferstler (Sep 27, 2007)

coffeetime said:


> I was thinking of buying a set. When I was looking around online today I ran accross a review about them. I was surprised when the author said that he would not use them very often. His complaint was that due to the little tips on the outside of the cutting edge they overheated very quickly. Now I like the idea of a drill bit that won't wander but I was wondering if this overheat problem is really a problem?
> What do you all think about the brad point drill bits?
> 
> Mike


I use some cheap versions and while they do eliminate start-up drift, they also tend to tear out the hole more than conventional bits. More expensive versions might not do that, however. Any bit is less likely to drift if you use a drill press and clamp the workpiece.

One problem with the brad-point bits is that you cannot sharpen them. I have a "Drill Doctor 500x sharpener and I use it to sharpen my collection of conventional bits. Very useful, especially since that particular model will let you sharpen bits at either 135 or 118 degrees. It cannot sharpen brad-point bits, unfortunately, and I doubt that any other home-use machine could, either.

I have some "split-point" bits on hand that kind of split (pun intended) the difference between brad-point and conventional twist bits. They resemble conventional bits, but with notches near the tips that help to control start-up drift. The Drill Doctor device will let you sharpen bits like that and will also allow you to convert standard twist bits into decent split-point versions, although they are not quite as spiffy as factory cut split-point types.

Howard Ferstler


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I am just in shock! I am stunned to hear so many gripes about brad point bits! I have been using them for years and I think they are the greatest thing since sliced bread! I use them when I need to plug a screw hole in a visible surface, & I especially use them when drilling peg holes for adjustable shelving, PRECISELY BECAUSE they cut such a CLEAN hole with NO TEAROUT. I will drill 1/4" holes for half an hour and I have NEVER had a bit heat up on me. What brands are you guys buying?? I've been using Irwins for more than a decade. And I use them in hard maple, cherry, oak, alder & ash, both solid wood and plywood. Both in the drill press and with my hand held drill.

In fact, the only time I ever have a bit heat up on me is if it's NOT SHARP. Speaking of which, they ARE SHARPENABLE. I use a small triangular file. No big fancy machines. I have even used the corner of a sharpening stone.


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## MrRodeoCC (Mar 15, 2008)

Using a drill press helps tremendously, it makes sure you are perpendicular to the workpiece and lets the bit cut evenly giving you a good clean cut. Just go real slow to get the whole started. The DeWalt bits with the high twist count will bite and dig through the work piece so be careful. I would use the brad to start then a regular bit to finish if you are going all the way through. Drilling freehand with those bits has always given me trouble. Maybe I cant drill straight, LOL.


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## Graphiti (Mar 29, 2008)

I've used brad point bits and found their performance to depend alot on the quality of the bit. Irwin, mentioned by Mark, are excellent and I've never had a problem with them overheating. As for as drilling a very accurate hole, which I often have to have accuracy in the range of 1/2 thousanth placement and an anglular accuracy of less than a thousanth/foot, I use a solid carbide twist bit about 1/32nd smaller than the finished hole then use a 4 blade, up-cut type carbide end mill. I know these tolerances sound nuts but the hole I'm refering to is centered in the joint of a pool cue and drilled on a 40" Jet metal turning lathe useing a drill chuck mounted on the tailstock. Prior to my current method I used brad point bits made by Irwin followed by a straight blade reemer. With that setup I didn't have over heating problems and I ended up centered within 2-3 thousanths of an inch on a .3120 diameter hole. All this was in various hard woods and drilling into the end grain, I spent 2 months of trial and error finding a reliable way to do it.
BTW. Anyone know any way to reduce the overheating with small diameter Forestner bits? It's just 3/8" and smaller.
Randy.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I was thinking about this yesterday when I stopped into the HF store in Eugene to see if they had anything in stock of decent quality. Nada. I once bought a 1/4" brad point bit because it was cheap. The scoring edges were longer than the center point, so there was no way you could drill a clean hole with it. It made me wonder...did some of you guys buy similar bits? Or just other cheapos, like from HF? That could explain your disappointment.


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## MrRodeoCC (Mar 15, 2008)

The DeWalt pilot points I got have a longer center pilot point than the outer edge. I get good clean holes as long as I clamp the piece to the drill press and go real slow. The high twist rate of the drill bit is what gives me trouble, once the blades catch it draws itself into the wood too fast tearing and chunking the wood rather than cutting clean. If the wood is not clamped down, it can pull the wood and my hand holding the wood down off the bed of the drill press. I bought them to do countersinks, but after it ran through 3/4" oak in the blink of an eye I wont use it for that anymore. The depth gauge was set it pulled the wood up the bit like a screw. Hate to keep harping on this but I hope newbies learn from my/our mistakes and don't ruin their project and become disheartened with woodwork.


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## jistincase (Apr 10, 2008)

I never used brad point bits for a long time now I use them all the time. The set that I got was from woodcraft and they were only like 10 bucks and they work super. Drill press or hand drilling I have not had a problem. Nice smooth holes with no tear and if you back the hole with a scrap no tear out there either even on luann plywood. I want to get more of them.


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## Graphiti (Mar 29, 2008)

The main problem with overheating is you need to spin all types of bits at the proper speed for good results. I learned recently that I was spinning all types too fast and have since had no troubles with over heating. 
http://www.americanfurnituredsgn.com/Drill%20Press%20Rules%2004.htm
This chart is a good starting point but these are actually maximum speeds, often you get better results at a slower speed. I tend to run at about 3/4 the speed listed and have since had zero over heating and scortching, and my bits last about 3 times as long between sharpenings. Also, most of the time I'm actually drilling holes in less time - especially in metal.
Randy


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## jistincase (Apr 10, 2008)

About Dewalt pilot points I really don't think that when they were made that they had the woodworker too much in mind. Like a lot of people have said they are just way to aggressive with that large pilot point on them. They are really more suited for doing metal work as the tip prevents them from walking even when you are drilling on a rounded surface.


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