# Friction Polish and Ca Glue



## lucas.j.dunton (Feb 27, 2008)

I mainly use Mylands friction Polish of CA Glue to finish my turnings since I can finish them on the lathe, and don't have to wait between coats. I was wondering how many coats everyone uses on these types of finishes. I usually put at least 5-8 for either, but see little difference between 5 or 10 coats, as far as depth of shine or anything like that. They don't seem to build up as thick coats. I would like to get a high build finish for durability as most of my turnings are to be used (pepper mills, bottle stoppers, pens, things like that) and are gifts so I would like them to be as durable as possible. Thanks


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Wodcraft carries a CA finishing kit, the CA is modified for a longer open time to make it easier to finish objects larger than pens.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084563/38156/stickfast-ca-finishing-kit.aspx

Finishing with CA takes some time to learn to get right, I do my pens with two coats of thin and four coats of medium CA before polishing.


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I used Mylands friction polish for the first time. I only applied 3 coats because I did not see much change between the second and third cost.
Tom


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

If you are using the friction coat by itself, it doesn't hold up over time with items being handled on a regular basis (pens, peppermills). I'm sure the ca would, although I don't use that for a finish. I wipe on lacquer with a small piece of cloth. It dries very quickly and doesn't add any color to the wood. 
Mike Hawkins


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## HLW (Nov 19, 2008)

Lucas,I've never used CA for a finish but I have considered it. I prefer using Mylands,Librons or satan Poly with a coat of wax afterwards. I've never been too fond of a glossy finish on bowls.That's just my likes but as I said I might consider it some day?Hope things work out.:thumbsup:


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## IVANHO (Oct 27, 2012)

I use CA for most of my pens etc. I do one coat of thin, then BLO and then one coat of med CA followed by BLO. I then go through the grits with micro polishing pads. I then do another coat of med followed by BLO and then polish with the last three grits. I stop here if I get a real nice polish or maybe one more if I want a thicker coat. I also the next day wax with Ren wax. Keeps it from having fingerprints and does not water spot. The more coats you do the more it will look like plastic. I find folks like them better if they do not have that plastic feel. I am sure there are many other opinions on this.


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## lucas.j.dunton (Feb 27, 2008)

I have a Beall Buff that I haven't used yet. Will this greatly improve the finish on my turnings? I usually don't do any sanding etc after I put the finish on, just sand to 400 apply ca of friction polish , then done. I got the beall for larger stuff like bowls, etc and haven't even set it up yet. How do you hold small stuff like pen blanks to buff?


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## IVANHO (Oct 27, 2012)

lucas.j.dunton said:


> I have a Beall Buff that I haven't used yet. Will this greatly improve the finish on my turnings? I usually don't do any sanding etc after I put the finish on, just sand to 400 apply ca of friction polish , then done. I got the beall for larger stuff like bowls, etc and haven't even set it up yet. How do you hold small stuff like pen blanks to buff?


I buff with white diamond and put on the ren wax. Wait a few moments and then buff lightly. I never use carnuba wax. I just hold them with my fingers. No need to press hard. With CA glue I am not sure you need to buff at all if your application is done correctly.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

The simple to use friction polishes don't hold up in use. I've tried them all many years ago. I've used CA for pens but I don't turn many of them. I think it's too expensive to use for larger items and difficult to use on my hand mirrors so I just stay away from that.
I use lacquer. I apply a couple of coats on the lathe. It makes spraying multiple coats off the lathe go faster. For things like my simple inexpensive ornaments I just apply 2 coats of lacquer thinned with lacquer thinner. If it's too thick it streaks, if it's too thin it doesn't build well. About 60/40 works. 40% thinner. 
For items that get handled I put one coat on and then off the lathe I spray them with a 60/40 lacquer. I put on several coats. Because I have to spray outside it's hard to control the weather and my finish is seldom perfect. That's where the Beal comes in. I can level the finish with the tripoli and then polish it with white diamond. Make sure to let it cure as long as it needs. The Beal will cut through the finish and you'll be stuck with refinishing. I used to use a lacquer I bought at Lowes. It took a couple of days to harden enough to not burn through. I went to a commercial brand made locally and my problems went away.


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## jim dort (Dec 30, 2012)

*use of CA for polish*

I tried CA today for first time...used Stick Fast (from Rockler) w/ alternate coats of Stick Fast Activator while the wood was turning on a lathe. I used a paper tower to apply the CA with.

Results: horrible! 

The result was ribbed, hard, and ugly. I then tried sand paper, 400 and 600 grit. That made it a bit smoother but also took off what little gloss there was.

Obviously, I don't know what I am doing and need lots of help. Any suggestions appreciated.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

jim dort said:


> I tried CA today for first time...used Stick Fast (from Rockler) w/ alternate coats of Stick Fast Activator while the wood was turning on a lathe. I used a paper tower to apply the CA with.
> 
> Results: horrible!
> 
> ...


practice will make that much better i promise :yes::yes::yes:
here is some good reading too and watch the video rusdemka posted in thi thread
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/trouble-ca-finish-49161/


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

robert421960 said:


> practice will make that much better i promise :yes::yes::yes:
> here is some good reading too and watch the video rusdemka posted in thi thread
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/trouble-ca-finish-49161/


+1 :thumbsup:


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Mike, John and others who use lacquer with success, can you recommend products/brands? Sounds like you put 1-2 coats on while the piece is on the lathe, then another 1-3 off the lathe which in some cases is wipe on and others sprayed? When that is cured the tripoli then white diamond buffing. With lacquer do you use the carnuba wax or skip?


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## Foresta Design (Dec 26, 2011)

As for the CA not shining after you sanded the biggest reason could be that you didn't sand to a high enough grit. CA once cured is like acrylic or resins. Go get some micromesh from woodcraft and go through all the pads in order. By the time your done the CA should be nice and shiny. A word of caution, make sure you have enough CA built up so you don't sand through to the wood. Hope this helps.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

jim dort said:


> I tried CA today for first time...used Stick Fast (from Rockler) w/ alternate coats of Stick Fast Activator while the wood was turning on a lathe. I used a paper tower to apply the CA with.
> 
> Results: horrible!
> 
> ...


Sounds a bit like you were either using thick CA or spending too much time wiping it on. The trick is to wipe it quick back and forth just enough to cover and back off. If you do find bad ripple touch it up with a skew to bring the surface back level again. If the buildup is enough a micromesh polish is next, otherwise do some more buildup until the desired thickness is met.


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## jgilfor (Jan 25, 2013)

I don't do pens; and also don't use CA for finishing. That said (and don't flame me for chiming in... just trying to help), I've watched several good Youtube videos on CA finishing. One where the BLO and CA technique was demonstrated. All seem to work beautifully!

The constant theme in all these, is using plastic wrap (Saran-type) to apply and smooth the CA on. Paper towels would be BAD! Also, I would NOT use accelerator, as it can cloud the finish (that much I do know). The BLO with CA finish looks the best IMHO. I would check out those videos.

Would not recommend ANY commercially available friction polish for items that are handled frequently. It just will not hold up. It'll look wonderful after you're done, and will quickly degrade to crap in no time with use. If you want a quick and long lasting pen finish, seems like the consensus is that CA can't be beat. Alternatively, you can finish with friction polish and add a coat or two of *** (yes, they're compatible). Shake can laquer will work well too.


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