# Need Help Removing Drill Chuck



## TwoRails (Jan 23, 2016)

I'm working on a friend’s Porter Cable PCC600 that he just got for cheap because the prior owner couldn’t get the chuck off. The retaining screw’s head has already been drilled off. Judging by the marks on the outside of the non-working Jacob chuck, everyone’s already tried what I tried, and that is to stick a pipe wrench on it to knock/spin it off.

I’ve removed a number of chucks before, but on old school manual chuck drill motors. They’ve always come off easily and as expected. But I’ve never removed a Jacob chuck before and apparently there’s a different trick to it…??? We both Googled it and from what I can tell, it should come off ‘normally,’ though.

Any tips, tricks, and ideas? All I’ve tried so far is a pipe wrench with a good bite and smacking it both sharply and heavily with a fair sized hammer.

Here's what it looks like: (Don't know if it makes a difference, but there's no 'LB' in the model number that's on the drill.)
http://www.portercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=28551#


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Since the chuck is no good you might try cutting it off, just outside the mounting screw. It might make digging the mounting screw easier to access. You could try cutting the chuck in two with a dremel tool with a metal cutting blade however you would have to use extreme caution not to damage the shaft. Sometimes you can cut the metal down to paper thin and use a wedge to break it the rest of the way. Still by the time you buy a new chuck and do all the work getting the old one off it might be easier to buy a new drill. I just bought a 20v dewalt drill for around $130


----------



## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

TwoRails said:


> *I'm working on a friend’s Porter Cable PCC600 that he just got for cheap because the prior owner couldn’t get the chuck off.* The retaining screw’s head has already been drilled off. Judging by the marks on the outside of the non-working Jacob chuck, everyone’s already tried what I tried, and that is to stick a pipe wrench on it to knock/spin it off.
> 
> I’ve removed a number of chucks before, but on old school manual chuck drill motors. They’ve always come off easily and as expected. But I’ve never removed a Jacob chuck before and apparently there’s a different trick to it…??? We both Googled it and from what I can tell, it should come off ‘normally,’ though.
> 
> ...


Well, I don't know what cheap means but that drill can be had as a factory reconditioned for $28 on ebay or $44 for a new one delivered. 

How much is the time worth?


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

probably already considered the possibly that it could be left hand or right hand thread??


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Many chucks are locked on with an Allen screw with the opposite thread direction to the chuck that threads into the end of the shaft. Unfortunately with worn chucks if a certain size bit spins in it the Allen socket gets rounded it out and makes things really difficult.


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

If memory serves youre supposed to tighten the chuck jaws down hard on an allen wrench, then smack the wrench clockwise (left hand thread) to loosen it. Either that, or theres an allen wrench cap screw thing down in the chuck youre supposed to loosen


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*remove the screw in the center of the chuck*

The retaining screw that's in the center of the 3 jaws is reverse thread:
Makitas:





Dewalts:


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

TwoRails indicated the head of the retaining screw had been removed already.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you did not watch the videos*



Steve Neul said:


> TwoRails indicated the head of the retaining screw had been removed already.


There are other tips to remove a stuck chuck in the videos as well as removing the center screw....... :smile3:


----------



## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

All this turmoil to remove a "cheap" drill chuck! Imo the effort, time, & anger are not worth it, and you don't know if the new chuck will work safely & proper. Scrap it and get a new name brand drill. Be safe.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*this thread maybe helpful others*

Two Rails is not the only one who may have to remove a worn out drill chuck... I have several. The replacement videos are very helpful in knowing the differences in the various manufactures attachment and removal methods. 
We can't look at a single "need help" post as exclusive to all others, since the information applies to anyone who may come across this in a search.... just sayin' :smile3:

The cost of a new chuck may be comparable to that of a new drill, so that would be a more economical solution, but not in every case. A keyless chuck may be replaced by a keyed type.. who knows?


----------



## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

Try leaving it in the deep freeze overnight. Then next day dip the chuck in boiling water and see if that breaks the seal. Hopefully the chuck will expand while the screw stays cold and contracted.
johnep


----------



## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

woodchux said:


> All this turmoil to remove a "cheap" drill chuck! Imo the effort, time, & anger are not worth it, and you don't know if the new chuck will work safely & proper. Scrap it and get a new name brand drill. Be safe.


I agree. Today's cordless drills are disposable. A brand new one with 2 batteries and charger can be had for fifty bucks.


----------



## TwoRails (Jan 23, 2016)

epicfail48 said:


> If memory serves youre supposed to tighten the chuck jaws down hard on an allen wrench, then smack the wrench clockwise (left hand thread) to loosen it. Either that, or theres an allen wrench cap screw thing down in the chuck youre supposed to loosen


 That’s the way it’s always worked for me, but the chuck is inop so I can’t use the Allen wrench trick. 

I was wondering if it being a Jacob chuck made any difference…? Hitting a pipe wrench on the outside of the chuck with a hammer, the Jacob chuck seems to have a little give; i.e. not a solid sounding hit.

( The retaining screw’s head was already drilled out when I got it, so that should be good to go.)


----------



## TwoRails (Jan 23, 2016)

Hi All. I haven’t had a chance to work on it again, but on my next attempt I’m going to go ‘bull moose’ on it and see what happens. I can’t really make an unusable item any more unusable, LOL. Hopefully I didn't miss anything:




Steve Neul said:


> Since the chuck is no good you might try cutting it off, just outside the mounting screw. …


 That’s one option for sure. If it were some one of a kind or otherwise a special item, I’d probably try it. 



subroc said:


> Well, I don't know what cheap means but that drill can be had as a factory reconditioned for $28 on ebay or $44 for a new one delivered.
> 
> How much is the time worth?


 Thanks for the price tip, and I passed it along to the drill owner. On if it’s worth the time, it’s just a for-fun challenge and learning experience. 



TimPa said:


> probably already considered the possibly that it could be left hand or right hand thread??


 Yes, thanks. I did try it both ways ‘just in case’ this unit was different, but no luck. And that’s why I’m here :smile3:



woodnthings said:


> The retaining screw that's in the center of the 3 jaws is reverse thread:
> Makitas:
> Drill Repair - Removing a Stuck, Seized, Stripped or Stubborn Chuck (Makita LXPH01) - YouTube
> 
> ...


 Thanks for the links; yes I watched both videos as you never know what you could learn if you don’t. :wink2:



woodchux said:


> All this turmoil to remove a "cheap" drill chuck! Imo the effort, time, & anger are not worth it, and you don't know if the new chuck will work safely & proper. Scrap it and get a new name brand drill. Be safe.


 Naw, no turmoil or anger here. It’s just for a fun challenge to help a friend out in my spare time and figure I won’t have more than a 1/2 hour in it after my second attempt. Yeah, now him knowing he can get a whole new unit for little more than a chuck only, I imagine he’ll go that route.




woodnthings said:


> Two Rails is not the only one who may have to remove a worn out drill chuck... I have several. The replacement videos are very helpful in knowing the differences in the various manufactures attachment and removal methods.
> We can't look at a single "need help" post as exclusive to all others, since the information applies to anyone who may come across this in a search.... just sayin' :smile3:
> 
> The cost of a new chuck may be comparable to that of a new drill, so that would be a more economical solution, but not in every case. A keyless chuck may be replaced by a keyed type.. who knows?


 Totally agree! I often find the answer to something without needing to post.



johnep1934 said:


> Try leaving it in the deep freeze overnight. Then next day dip the chuck in boiling water and see if that breaks the seal. Hopefully the chuck will expand while the screw stays cold and contracted.
> johnep


 Interesting. If he doesn’t get a new drill, I’ll give it a try.


----------



## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Use it for a door stop or paper weight and buy a new drill. Too small for a boat anchor.


----------

