# Router table bit height



## elmansym (Oct 13, 2011)

I just bought my first router table the other day. The issue I'm having is when the bit is fully seated, and the router is set to its heighest position, the bit is not extending high enough above the surface of the table. I have the 1/4" collet sleeve in place, and 3/4" of the bit shank inserted into the collet. It seems I need another 1/2" of height, but im not comfortable pulling the bit shank that much further out of the collet (that would mean I'd only have a1/4" in the collet). Does anyone have any advice? Or did I just get a poorly designed/crafted table? I hate to admit it, but it is a harbor freight router/table; I just couldn't pass up the price. Thank you all in advance!

Haddy


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

Definitely don't pull it out that far. I had a bit come out on me doing some hand work and it's a scary experience. 

You could look at a bit extender (MCLS carries one, I believe. Peachtree as well). But you'd be looking at $22 for each size and some people shy away from using them. You could see if you could modify or build a new table for about the same price. You could get fancy and make a cabinet-style or just a simple setup on some sawhorses.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Some pictures of the table and the way that the router is mounted would definitely go a long way in us being able to suggest a solution. What is it that makes it so that the bit is unable to protrude as much as you need? With a router table, you should be able to get the full use of the cutting area of a bit without having to compromise the correct seating in the collet.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I agree with Kenbo in that some pics would go a long way in identifying the issue. Another is question is just what type of operation are you attempting. I can understand someone needing another 1/8 or even a quarter inch but half an inch is a long ways.


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## Chris86 (Aug 27, 2011)

Does the bit not come up high enough at all for any operation, or is it just not coming up high enough for a particular application you have in mind?

If it's only one particular application you're referring to, such as cutting a deep groove or dado, you may want to try to use an alternate method.


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## elmansym (Oct 13, 2011)

I'm using a roman ogee bit, and I'm not able to get the full curve in the wood. For a dovetail or a groove cut, I think it could be fine, but I want the roman ogee bit up a little higher. Here are some pics of the router and table in the highest position and dropped down some. Thanks to everyone for taking the time to check it out. 

Haddy


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

Is your top a uniform thickness, or is the area where you mount the router thinner? Might play a big role in a solution.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

That is a seriously thick table. Is there a thinner router plate for this unit that the router is attached to or does the router just screw to the underside of that thick table?


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## elmansym (Oct 13, 2011)

It looks to me like the router screws directly into the bottom of the table. The table is 3/4" thick and u inform all the way across. I've attached another picture looking up from the bottom of the table. In this pic, the router is raised again. 

Thanks,
Haddy


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you have 3 choices*

1. Thin the area where the router goes under the table by 1/4".
2, Use a 1/2" collet with a longer 1/2" bit.
3. You can't get there from here with that thick table. Take it back, and start over with a 3/8" or 1/3" thick router plate and make your own table.
Do not raise the bit out of the collet by more than 1/8", it's not safe. :no: bill

BTW a bit extension will work as suggested, but you also need a 1/2" collet for that.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Could be a table and router problem. HF. Are you surprised?
I would return at least the table, and make my own table.
Do have the orig base on the router? Removing it would help a little.
Route a recess in a 3/4" top, and bolt the router in.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi Haddy - Plus 1 with Kenbo, that is a seriously thick table, not so much table but where it's mounted. Also, from the pic of the router in a "down" position, you already have that bit pulled out a LOT, I would say at least half the shank. Not a good thing, especially with 1/4" shanks, worse thing if you are using a collet reducer. Also looks like the Harbor Freight router, will it take 1/2" shank bits?
If it takes 1/2" shanks, you can use a collet extender found here:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html
Personally not fond of them but I have one. I think I have used it once in a pinch. 
IMO, a better solution would be to install a 1/4" thick aluminum router plate, found here:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html#All_In_One_router_plate_kit_anchor
I recommend aluminum as you would need to cut a hole in the table and route a rabbet around the hole to support the plate. As your table is only 3/4 thick, I would recommend at least a 3/8" wide rabbet for plate support. Depth of the rabbet needs to be equal to the thickness of the plate. 
Best solution, IMO, would be to buy another table or make your own. Making your own is fairly easy and pretty cheap, a couple of pieces of MDF laminated together would do it. You could use the fence off the table you have, just duplicate the attachment method. :thumbsup:
Let us know what you think, will be happy to help:yes:


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> 1. Thin the area where the router goes under the table by 1/4".
> 2, Use a 1/2" collet with a longer 1/2" bit.
> 3. You can't get there from here with that thick table. Take it back, and start over with a 3/8" or 1/3" thick router plate and make your own table.
> Do not raise the bit out of the collet by more than 1/8", it's not safe. :no: bill
> ...


All good suggestions. I can understand looking at the table and router in terms of value (more than most, probably). And if you used a coupon, it's a good bargain. It really depends on where you want to go from here - if it's an occasional tool, then trace the router base on the underside and use the router to carve out a 1/4" thinner spot for it. I would be concerned that the table is made out of melamine or chipboard, though.

If I were in your position, I would take it back. I would spend the money solely on a router, because you can make a table out of anything, and a fence could be scrap. In terms of value, if you paid retail at HF you could get a Craftsman 2hp plunge and fixed combo for a couple of bucks more and mount it in anything sturdy enough. (Note, that price is good through tonight) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00927683000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

I'm partial to the Craftsman line for value routers personally, but I think even returning that router and table you bought for the 2hp fixed base Drill Master router at HF for half the price would be a wiser choice. Looks like a clone (Porter Cable?) of one I've seen before. Then you've got some cash to pick up a mounting plate, say from Rockler. (I've tried a phenolic MCLS plate and an aluminum Rockler plate, and I like the security and heft the Rockler one gives)

This, to me, would certainly be a better investment than spending additional money on an extender.


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## elmansym (Oct 13, 2011)

Thank you all for the advice. Initially I was leaning towards the collet extender, but now I think I'm just going to return the whole thing and take this as yet another lesson of "if it seems like its too good to be true..." At least now I know a potential issue to look for when buying in the future. 

I just saw on Home Depot's site has a Ryobi router + table at http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...talogId=10053&productId=100618267&R=100618267

Do people think this looks ok (I'm a beginner) or will it have it's own set of problems?

Thanks again to everyone who contributed. 

Haddy


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A 3/4" thick table top is not out of the ordinary for a router table. From your picture, it doesn't appear that the router is bottoming out to its base. 












 







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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

elmansym said:


> Thank you all for the advice. Initially I was leaning towards the collet extender, but now I think I'm just going to return the whole thing and take this as yet another lesson of "if it seems like its too good to be true..." At least now I know a potential issue to look for when buying in the future.
> 
> I just saw on Home Depot's site has a Ryobi router + table at http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...talogId=10053&productId=100618267&R=100618267
> 
> ...


Hi Haddy - that set also has it's own set of problems but I think it will do what you want. If there is a display model around, check and see how close the collet makes it to the table top. You do need something that will allow you to take advantage a full bit profile. 
I'm a proponent of buying the first router table to learn on. After using one a while, short while I may add, the tables strengths and weaknesses will become apparent. These strengths and weaknesses are also related to your own unique way of working. Ideally, IMO, a starter table and fence setup should be easily modifyable so that you can make changes here and there to make it friendlier to your personal way of working. At some point you will be able to develop a list of "gotta have" attributes as well as a list of "no way" features which will give you a pretty decent blue print for building your own. 
I don't know if there is a real cheap way into this. I started with an old Craftsman "router/shaper" table that I paid to much for used. Found out it really wasn't very good as a router table and was even worse as a shaper. After sticking a bunch of money and a lot of time in it, I gave up and bought a MLCS table which I still have, in addition to another I bought and one I built for special purposes. But, by the time I got rid of the old Craftsman thing I had a very good idea what I needed.
I'm not saying the Ryobi is a bad buy, if it will allow you to get started it will be fine. Craftsman also carries some table/router combination sets in that price range. Another thought would be to pick up a cheap table and a inexpensive fixed base/plunge base router kit so you can mount the fixed base in the table and just drop the motor out of the table to use the plunge base for hand work. 
Lots of options out there, Good Luck:thumbsup:

c-man - check the pic in post #9, sure looks to me like the base is bottomed out. Hmm, also looks like the table is particle board.


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## elmansym (Oct 13, 2011)

John, thanks, you are right: the router is bottomed out and the table is particle board. Good eye. 

I'm just getting into wood working, so at this point I'm buying the entry level of most items to see how much I'll use it before investing in high quality (expensive) tools. My garage is full if Ryobi, Skil and HF tools. Once I realized how much I enjoyed the scroll saw, I upgraded to a Dewalt. 

I'll check out the craftsman router options and be sure to examine the display models. I was just wondering if collet height was a common problem, or I just got what I paid for the first time out. 

Thanks,
Haddy


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I commented on the router not appearing to be bottomed out. It just looks like the way the base is made that there is a height to the base that creates the distance. If the router is a plunge type as this setup (it may be yours), there may be a fixed base available for the router, that might be shorter and would allow the collet to bottom closer to the base.

A plunge router is convenient for a table router, but not necessary. The top is a 3/4" composite, which is a very common thickness for router table tops. Using a plate (1/4"), rabbeted in from the top, will give another 1/2" of height to the collet. That might be just enough, and also provide a functional plate.












 







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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

elmansym said:


> Thank you all for the advice. Initially I was leaning towards the collet extender, but now I think I'm just going to return the whole thing and take this as yet another lesson of "if it seems like its too good to be true..." At least now I know a potential issue to look for when buying in the future.
> 
> I just saw on Home Depot's site has a Ryobi router + table at http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...talogId=10053&productId=100618267&R=100618267
> 
> ...



You would be better off, just buying a better router, with a fixed, and plunge base. Make a simple table, and attach the fixed base. Then you can use the plunge base for handheld work.
A router table, can be as simple as a piece of plywood, with a recess routed in the bottom, with the route bolted in place, and a piece of straight wood, clamped on as a fence.
Invest in a quality router, rather than a cheap router and a crappy table.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*agreed!*

Something like this: 




or this:





The reviews are here:
http://www.wood-router.net/

The router plates and interchangeable inserts can be seen here:
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerPlates.htm

The advantage of a "manufactured" plate is that you can change the center inserts to accommodate different diameter bits, a safety feature! If you have a large diameter opening and a small diameter bit. the workpiece can get hung up or fall into the opening...not good.

Keep in mind that a table mounted router should have a minimum of 1 3/4 Hp preferably more... 2 1/4...3 HP! The advantage there is you can use larger diameter bit much more safely than with a hand held!

:yes: bill


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Here's one that is light years ahead of the Chicago Electric for about the same budget. Not a high end machine by any means but should do a respectable job. Likely won't find a predrilled plate for it but that, also, is a non-issue as they are easy to drill.
http://www.reconditionedtools.com/f...ml?start=5&cgid=routers-and-laminate-trimmers
:thumbsup:


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## elmansym (Oct 13, 2011)

Thanks everyone. I'll be returning the HF setup today and I'll invest in a quality router. Sounds like a table is easy enough to make so I'll give that a shot. Thanks again!

Haddy


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## princesss54603 (Feb 6, 2017)

Chris86 said:


> Does the bit not come up high enough at all for any operation, or is it just not coming up high enough for a particular application you have in mind?
> 
> If it's only one particular application you're referring to, such as cutting a deep groove or dado, you may want to try to use an alternate method.


It absolutely does not come up high enough for any cut. Mine came with the router installed on the table already, I took it off thinking something had to of been installed incorrectly.....NOPE! The design is horrible, not sure how anyone can use it. I'm taking it back tomorrow and getting a trim router for now, don't want to invest in a more expensive brand at this time and I don't care what anyone says, the trim router works as it should and is easy to use.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

This thread is over 5 years old.

George


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

In my collection of both new and old router bits I have several that have shorter shanks than others. 
The shank length will be important when mounting under a table. It doesn't matter if the shank is 1/4" or 1/2" diameter, I'm talking about the length of the shank. 
I suggest you take your Roman Ogee bit with you to a good woodworking supply and compare the shank length. You may find your bit has a short shank. Short shanked bits will still work well when not using the router table.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Yipes! I responded to another old thread.


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## RobertKza (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks for the comment. I've been raising the bit in the collet and wasn't happy. Maybe I'll have to investigate another table. It's disappointing because it was a Ryobi router table with a nice fence and dust extraction port. I can't recall seeing a collet extender but on my next visit to the tool store I'll scout around.


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