# Delta Unisaw Drive Belts



## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

I Am having a hell of a time getting a matched set of belts for my Delta Unisaw. it requires 3 belts if they aren't matched then one of the three always is longer than the others and it shakes the motor and table harshly upon startup and shutdown doesn't effect it doing any work but I just want it to run smoothly. I have seen many nickel test videos on YouTube where they have their unisaws running so smoothly that two nickels set up on end stay standing still during startup, running, and shutdown I want that after I get my belts changed if that doesn't help does anyone have any suggestions thanks everyone


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Have you checked with these guys:

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisawparts.htm


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

Yeah they were out of stock for a while I will have to check back. Found a company called polybelt on eBay they sent me some but they didn't match so they are sending me new ones so we will see if that works but I still want suggestions on how to keep the motor from kicking when turned off and on thanks for the suggestion


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Have you read what is discussed here about clunking on start up:
http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw_faq.htm


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you are going to replace all three, use the Delta kit of three. They aren't cheap. If you try to use standard V belts with the same number, they won't be a match. FYI...the Unisaw will run on one belt if need be.


















.


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

I had the same problem with my Unisaw and the replacement belts I bought were worse than the ones I had so I ended making my own link belts from this..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fenner-Driv...916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e100c254


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

Wow guys thank you so much for the info I think between these last few posts I will fix my problem really quickly thanks


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I had the same problem with my Unisaw. I put it together using three fresh Gates premium belts. You could see one or two flopping around loose, even though they were the same number and all. It would shake especially hard on shut down.

I bought the matched Delta set and the problem went away. When they say 'matched' it means they are cut off the same belt stock and sequentially numbered.

Generally, link belts aren't recommended for the Unisaw's triple belt setup. I have also read that since they are thicker, they can contact the bottom of the table.

Bill


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Wow...I didn't realize how lucky I am. I replaced mine with 3 Gates power rated belts and it worked flawlessly...Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket.


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

We'll I just spent $65.00 on some link belts since I can't seem to find three the same size I have two new belts that run together flawlessly and since we heard earlier in the thread that the unisaw could run on one belt if push came to shove I think I will first try running it with the two and see how that goes. If that doesn't work I will try my new power twist v belts suggested from above either way I will find which combination runs it the smoothest and finish this headache. I'm really tired of having this saw torn apart


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Link belts stretch unpredictably, it won't be long until they are different lengths. As the break in each link settles to it's own position. I was told (by them, many years ago when I had a day job) that they really aren't meant for multiple belts drives. But like Cabinetman said, you are just fine on one belt.0


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Hawkeye1434 said:


> We'll I just spent $65.00 on some link belts since I can't seem to find three the same size I have two new belts that run together flawlessly and since we heard earlier in the thread that the unisaw could run on one belt if push came to shove I think I will first try running it with the two and see how that goes. If that doesn't work I will try my new power twist v belts suggested from above either way I will find which combination runs it the smoothest and finish this headache. I'm really tired of having this saw torn apart


this issue always confuses me. i put these three *unmatched* belts on my unisaw ($15 total from grainger) and here's a video of how the saw operated.







BTW, the guys @ sawcenter waved me off link belts. i forgot the reason but it made sense when they mentioned it.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I should have mentioned, I also replaced my 3 belts with an unmatched set, and it runs more smoothly than it did with the factory set. The new ones I bought were the cogged belts, they seem to work a little better with the smaller sheaves.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Fred,

The Gates belts I used first (AX24 Tri-Power) were the cogged belts and they flopped (literally - two flopped around). I guess sometimes you get lucky and just happen to get a set that's all the same length by chance. Perhaps If I'd been patient, the shorter belt(s) would have stretched from use and they all would have matched and all tensioned the same. But I was after instant gratification and went after the matched Delta set, which worked for me. In 2011 they were $37 for the set of three (Delta No.49-124). The way Delta has been so bad at providing parts lately, I wonder if they're available now.

Bill


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I equate the Gates brand with quality, but that didn't seem to be the case with your belts. It was explained to me (when i had a job as a reliability manager) by our technical engineers that the new manufacturing technologies do such a good job at precision that the matched thing was a thing of the past. Regardless, I bought the same belts (AX24) but they weren't Gates (can't remember, maybe Goodyear).


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

We'll I'm glad three unmatched belts worked for you that's great but it's certainly not working here the saw will run just fine and I could work with it but it jumps when I start it and shakes the table upon shutdown I really wish I could by three belts the same size I can't find them. one out of the three I bought was a full 1/2 inch bigger than the rest visually. It literally flops around I will probably try the links but ultimately they don't sound like they will work when this guy from polybelts sends me the other three maybe I can find three out of the six total total that will be close enough.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*go to your local auto parts store or TSC*

:blink:
Take all your belts.
They have a belt measuring gizmo that will tell you right off if the belts are within the same specs. Take the 3 that are closest to the same length and try those.


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

I also read all the speculation about link belts not being "meant" for 3 belt Unisaws however I couldn't find a good reason based on somebody actually using them. I did however find numerous people using them on Unisaws with no issues other than possibly hitting the underside of the table which mine will do if cranked all the way up (that is not an issue for me since I have never needed to crank it that high). In any case I tried 1 belt and it does work just fine as cabinetman says however I'll leave all 3 on since they have worked flawlessly and I no longer have the clunk on start up nor the shimmy on shutdown.

edit.. I just found the quote from John White formerly of Fine WoodWorking Magazine that led me to try these belts....


"There are a lot of myths and misinformation going around about link belts. The belts made by Fenner, the red ones sold by many suppliers, work very well in all applications including multiple sheaves. They are meant for long term use and will last as long, and probably longer, than conventional belts. They would be my first choice for replacing the belts in a Unisaw.

John White
John White Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007"


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

The composition of belts vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, replacing them with a brand other than the OEM will be the luck of the draw.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

I changed the belts on my Unisaw last year. I got them off eBay for about $25 plus $3 shipping. Haven't had a problem with them. Make sure the belts are matched to your motor speed. Mine runs at 3450 rpm but some older Unisaws have 1725 rpm motors. I checked to see who I got them from and found that he still is selling sets for around the same price in both motor speeds. Here's a link :http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-Unisa...276?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a37032bc
I was happy with his service.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

JohnK007 said:


> Make sure the belts are matched to your motor speed.


Now there's something I've never heard before....:confused1:


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Hawkeye1434 said:


> I Am having a hell of a time getting a matched set of belts for my Delta Unisaw. it requires 3 belts if they aren't matched then one of the three always is longer than the others and it shakes the motor and table harshly upon startup and shutdown doesn't effect it doing any work but I just want it to run smoothly. I have seen many nickel test videos on YouTube where they have their unisaws running so smoothly that two nickels set up on end stay standing still during startup, running, and shutdown I want that after I get my belts changed if that doesn't help does anyone have any suggestions thanks everyone


Accu-Link, Linkbelts or similar. I have used them at work on 7.5-hp compressors, which have far more start load than a table saw, and they work great. They Even have slightly less running resistance.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Fred Hargis said:


> Now there's something I've never heard before....:confused1:


Probably has something to do with the pulley diameter, maybe? I don't know but if I recall even the Delta sets were matched to the motor speed. Beats me.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Glad I read these posts. Reminded me I never put new belts on my old Unisaw. I belt had a split and about 2 years ago, I cut it off. Then for got to change the set.
Never had any problem with 2 belts, so I guess I will leave them on. It's a 1946 saw, and runs real smooth. 
I think it would run fine with 1 belt, being the motor pulley is a large diameter, with the 1725 rpm motor. lots of contact area.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

JohnK007 said:


> Probably has something to do with the pulley diameter, maybe? I don't know but if I recall even the Delta sets were matched to the motor speed. Beats me.


The belts for a 1725 RPM motor would be longer because it has a larger pulley to run saw at same RPM as a 3450 RPM motor.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Yes, the low RPM pulley is a lot bigger so needs longer belts. For some reason the bigger pulleys were made of alloy instead of iron/steel like the small ones. Pirate, they tend to wear, so when you change your belts, check the motor pulley. It the edges of the sheaves are as sharp as edge of your plane iron, better start looking for a replacement.

The big ones look like this:










My Uni originally had a 1725 motor but I bought it motor-less. It came with the pulley above, which I sold and then bought the smaller one since I planned to use a higher RPM motor.

Bill


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

That makes sense, I had interpreted the original statement as being the belts are matched to the speed they run at instead of just being the right size (length).


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

Hawkeye1434 said:


> I Am having a hell of a time getting a matched set of belts for my Delta Unisaw. it requires 3 belts if they aren't matched then one of the three always is longer than the others and it shakes the motor and table harshly upon startup and shutdown doesn't effect it doing any work but I just want it to run smoothly. I have seen many nickel test videos on YouTube where they have their unisaws running so smoothly that two nickels set up on end stay standing still during startup, running, and shutdown I want that after I get my belts changed if that doesn't help does anyone have any suggestions thanks everyone


how about the link belt's, that is what i use, but single and it is a nite and day difference on my delta uni


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

dodgeboy77 said:


> Yes, the low RPM pulley is a lot bigger so needs longer belts. For some reason the bigger pulleys were made of alloy instead of iron/steel like the small ones. Pirate, they tend to wear, so when you change your belts, check the motor pulley. It the edges of the sheaves are as sharp as edge of your plane iron, better start looking for a replacement.
> Bill


Being as the low rpm pulley is alloy, it's a good reason, not to use link belts. I heard they wear out pulleys. The old Unisaur, runs so smooth, I don't see any reason for link belts. Especially if they limit blade height as someone mentioned.


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

Follow Up: Well guys my guy at polybelt.com came thru the belts were a matched set. He told me to look at the markings and to line them up and that I would see they were cut off in succession. They are perfect I love them and my saw is running like new finally I can get my shop put back together


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Glad you got it worked out!


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Hawkeye,

What kind of belts did you finally end up with? Were they link belts? I looked at Polybelt's site and they make a lot of kinds of belts.

Bill


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Here's something of interest (at least to me). While this thread was going on, I e-mailed Fenner about using link belts on multi belt drives. They called me just a few minutes ago (!). The fellow explained it was acceptable to use link belts on multi belt drives, the only caution was to make sure each belt had the same number of links as the others. This is quite different than anything I had heard before, and I'm still not sure I buy into it. But my jointer has a bad belt slap on shut down, and I may replace them (2 belt drive) with the Fenner belts. The downside in this cse if those belts lengthen a little during break in, and adjusting the tightness on this particular jointer (Jet 8") is kind of a pain.


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

Dodgeboy77- I bought the Unimatch belts (the poly) regular belts. it's polybelt.coms belts that match the delta belt #49-124. I found him on eBay about $10.00 per belt after shipping but I had to have them. I ordered the links ones from rockier but these came first so I will store the links ones till I'm in need of a belt one day. If you need any further info let me know


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Fred Hargis said:


> Here's something of interest (at least to me). While this thread was going on, I e-mailed Fenner about using link belts on multi belt drives. They called me just a few minutes ago (!). The fellow explained it was acceptable to use link belts on multi belt drives, the only caution was to make sure each belt had the same number of links as the others. This is quite different than anything I had heard before, and I'm still not sure I buy into it. But my jointer has a bad belt slap on shut down, and I may replace them (2 belt drive) with the Fenner belts. The downside in this cse if those belts lengthen a little during break in, and adjusting the tightness on this particular jointer (Jet 8") is kind of a pain.


One of my former employers ran the link belts on two, three, and four belt sheaves. The Mechanical Engineer who ran the maintenance section did efficiency testing of the link belts by running them on pump/motor assemblies and measuring the wire to water horsepower. The link belts were more efficient, and we had no issues with longevity.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Our interest in them was the parts inventory reduction possible., A spool of link belt is cheaper than hundreds of V belts hanging on a rack. One problem we couldn't solve was that the link belts aren't directional, and quite a bit of our machinery was reversible.


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