# Stripped door hinge screw holes.



## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

When our house was built, I think the builder installed the interior doors in a bind. Over the years, the holes for the hinge screws have stripped out. I have tried the toothpick trick and the golf tee trick and these did not work. Before I get new doors, I want to try drilling and gluing 3/8 dowels in the stripped holes and redrilling the holes. Has anyone fixed this issue in this way? Or is there a better way? You guys are great, thanks for any help.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Ryan Walden said:


> When our house was built, I think the builder installed the interior doors in a bind. Over the years, the holes for the hinge screws have stripped out. I have tried the toothpick trick and the golf tee trick and these did not work. Before I get new doors, I want to try drilling and gluing 3/8 dowels in the stripped holes and redrilling the holes. Has anyone fixed this issue in this way? Or is there a better way? You guys are great, thanks for any help.


I feel gluing in solid wood is the best way if you are not able to use larger screws or longer screws.

Ideally the solid wood is a face grain plug. It may be worth getting a plug cutter. A dowel is the easy quick fix, but it will be end grain.

I have 3 plug cutters which look like this set.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2002088/3716/3-piece-plug-and-tenon-cutter-set.aspx

The smallest is 3/8in dia plug. I will be happy to cut some plugs from scrap pieces. Just send me a PM with your address and how many and the length.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The only luck I've ever had with this situation is use a screw long enough to reach the stud behind the jamb. Normally a 3" screw will fix it.


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

Using plugs instead of dowels makes very good sense to me. I am getting a drill press thurs night and had planned to be at Rockler fri morning they should have the 3/8 plug cutter. You have inspired a new project on a new tool. Thank you.


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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

For interior doors, I've always had good results with toothpicks (the larger, round, kind). I use glue and stuff in as many as will fit. The glue needs to dry before any screws are run in and the screws shouldn't be overtightened.

For exterior doors (and a few badly stripped interior doors), I use 1/4" or 3/8" fluted dowels (or whatever I have handy). As always, let the glue dry and don't overtighten the screws.


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I have only tried to use the toothpicks as shims. I never thought of actually filling the hole with them.


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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

> Using plugs instead of dowels makes very good sense to me.


Not necessarily - unless you can cut plugs nearly as long as your screws. The only "hold" will be the depth of the plug. If it's too short, the screw will eventually pull it loose. That's why I use fluted, hardwood, dowels.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

End grain dowels will work just fine. Drill out the hole, it may be ¼", and use a ¼" dowel, and glue them in, flushing out the face. When dry, position the hinge and draw a circle with a fine point pencil (5mm) on one of the close to center leaf holes. Eyeball the center of the circle and with a scratch awl place the point in the center and tap the awl to make an indent. Drill the hole with a small bit, ⅛" will work. Drill and insert dowels in the rest of the holes. 

Mount the hinge on the one screw, and position the leaf for a proper position. Mark and drill the rest of the holes in the same fashion. Remove the one screw, and slightly countersink the holes. Mount hinges with new screws.









 







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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

Dang. I understand that point too. To provide as much stability as possible I am thinking 3/8 dowel similar in length to the standard door screw as short as reasonable, since I do not have a plug cutter yet. Theoretically minimizing the screw's ability to move.


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## Printer (Oct 8, 2012)

I posted after you cabinetman. I see your instructions and will start tomorrow night when I get off work. Thank you all very much. I will update as this develops.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I use round tooth picks and or dowels. I always glue them in place. I use a vix bit to make sure the screw holes are aligned properly. It has always worked for me.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*agreed*



Steve Neul said:


> The only luck I've ever had with this situation is use a screw long enough to reach the stud behind the jamb. Normally a 3" screw will fix it.


I've tried toothpicks on smaller cabinet door holes, and cut triangle slivers off matching wood for larger ones, but the best cure on a heavy door is to use 3" or longer screws into the framing studs. :thumbsup: The casings are only 3/4" thick and a "band aid" fix may not be enough. A door can have a lot of leverage applied to the upper hinges 3 ft away, if someone leans heavily on the handle as can be the case accidentally. By screwing into the framing members you will have a solid and secure repair. JMO :smile:


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> but the best cure on a heavy door is to use 3" or longer screws into the framing studs. :thumbsup:


Best advice yet!

BTW - The longer screws can also adjust a sagging door.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Using long screws could solve the problem. They should be a #9, for a good head fit, and a screw that long is likely not to have threads all the way to the head. A precaution to using long screws, is that it could pull the jamb out of plumb, or create a twist.









 







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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

One thing that I forgot to add is to put a bit of lube in the screw threads before driving them. 

Palmolive DW liquid seems to work well but it is a little messy. (Don't dip the screw much more than 1/2")

The best lube that I've found is a wax toilet seal. I got the seal from the hardware store for a few dollars and a very large Rx bottle from CVS. Then I melted the wax with hot water into the Rx bottle. I use a tooth pick to put the wax on the threads.


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## mveach (Jul 3, 2010)

Before the holes get completely wollard out, "Chair Lock" works very well. For doors, I always use at least 1 long screw in each hinge. More depending on weight.


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## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

I drag the screws across a bar of soap filling the threads. Works great, no mess.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

tvman44 said:


> I drag the screws across a bar of soap filling the threads. Works great, no mess.


That is what I do also.

George


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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

> I melted the wax with hot water into the Rx bottle


Sure seems like a lot of work. - lol

I just keep a wax ring handy and dip the screw points into it. They come in a plastic "shell" and one ring will last for decades.


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## door_fixer (Feb 5, 2013)

*oversize threads*

Fringe Screw is the best way to fix loose door hinges. They have a standard #9 head matched with oversize threads that will tighten in the stripped out screw holes. It's much quicker and more reliable than toothpicks and glue or dowels.


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

Ryan Walden said:


> When our house was built, I think the builder installed the interior doors in a bind. Over the years, the holes for the hinge screws have stripped out. I have tried the toothpick trick and the golf tee trick and these did not work. Before I get new doors, I want to try drilling and gluing 3/8 dowels in the stripped holes and redrilling the holes. Has anyone fixed this issue in this way? Or is there a better way? You guys are great, thanks for any help.


Done that lots of times.


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## Gary0855 (Aug 3, 2010)

I 2nd the long screw method. You have to be careful not to pull the jamb in to far while driving the screw in.
Another problem is that a lot of guys don't nail the jamb in the right place and the shims behind the jamb are not in the right place, @ the hing locations, and the weight of the door is pulling on the jamb. The nails in the trim can only hold so much. You can tell by closing the door and looking at the gap around the door.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Amen to the fringe screw suggestion.

http://housefixer.info/wordpress/2011/04/14/a-new-way-to-fix-an-old-loose-door-hinge/


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

as a contrator, i always install at least one long screw in each of the top two hinges when doing door indstallations. many times the long screws come from the door manufacturer. like mentioned - sccrew should be long enough to catch the jack stud, screw head to fit the hinge, and don't over-tighten to misalign the hinge jamb.

seems the door jamb wood is getting softer and the screws seem to have less bite than they used to. especially when someone runs them in strong without setting a clutch for over-torqueing


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