# face frame attachments



## mancavewoodworks (Mar 5, 2011)

how the heck do you attach face frames to a cabinet carcass??? biscuits???


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

The cabinets that I've made used melamine for the carcasses. The face frames were of red oak. I used a lot of Titebond glue, shot 16 gauge finishing nails through and gently clamped around the edges until the glue dried. Try to put the nails into parts of the grain so that they don't show. The nail holes can be filled with matching filler. (WB if you're using WB finishing products.)

Come to think of it, the cabinets in the kitchen were done that way. Yes, I can find the filled holes but I really have to look for them.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Face frames can be just glued and clamped. For whatever the cabinet is made of I pass a block sander over the leading edge before gluing on the FF. That will do a final swipe to leave a smooth surface. It will also take care of a slight differential where panels meet at the corners.

The same holds for the back of the face frame, to insure a good smooth gluing surface. 












 







.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

+1 on what Cabinetman said. 

Additionally, being one for ridiculous amounts of overkill (I believe it's actually some sort of mental problem I have) I use glue and pocket hole screws driven into the back of the face frame through the side panels, underside of the deck and top side of the top stretcher. It's extremely tedious to drill all of those holes and drive all those screws. Not sure how much of a difference it makes in terms of strength but doing it that way helps me avoid taking sleeping pills. The only issue I had was coming up with a way to positively index/align the face frame with the carcass when attaching them. I have come up with a very simple jig and clamp method that solves the problem for me.


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

I have done pocket holes where they wouldn't be seen, I have also used the Sommerfeld tools tongue and groove router bit set. That worked really well, and it lined up every time. If you don't want to have to attach the face frame to the cabinet box, just make frame-less cabinets. That way the hinge mounts to the inside of the cabinet. You can just edge band the plywood sides that you face-frame would normally mount to.
Nick


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

3/8" x 1/4" rabbet on the cabinet sides, groove cut in the faceframe, partitions aren't rabbeted, instead the back of the faceframe is grooved 1/4" x 3/4" to fit over. Everything glued and clamped, no fasteners.


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## LIHR (Feb 23, 2011)

Hammer1 said:


> 3/8" x 1/4" rabbet on the cabinet sides, groove cut in the faceframe, partitions aren't rabbeted, instead the back of the faceframe is grooved 1/4" x 3/4" to fit over. Everything glued and clamped, no fasteners.



That makes for a very nice high quality made cabinet.


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## mancavewoodworks (Mar 5, 2011)

I love tthis place!!! Thanks y'all:thumbsup:


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## Silver fox (Feb 28, 2011)

Hi, there. I use pocket hole joinery on the outsides of the carcas sides, and a few biscuits on the lower edge front to align the bottom edge with the floor of the carcas. This works really well. After I glue in the biscuits, I tack a couple of nails from my gun on the top two corners of the face frame to hold it while I screw in the pocket screws. Works like a charm!
Good luck.


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## TGRANT (Jan 25, 2011)

I just glue them on and clamp them. I just glued up a set of cabinets last week. Photo shows the technique I use. It works fine, but is easier with two people. I prefinish the parts that show to make glue cleanup easier. The wood to wood joint is plenty strong and then I can use the frame to square up the cabinet as I tighten the clamps.


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