# Finishing wood slab desk, need help



## bugmcw (Jun 29, 2011)

Hey everyone,

I have been lurking for a little while now as I am building a desk from a 15' slab of kiln dried spalted gum...

I have repaired a lot of the edges where i have some splintering with stainable wood filler, but i do not know what to do about all of the hairline cracks along the top surface of the slab. Should i fill them or leave them open? I dont mind the look of the cracks, but would like them to remain smooth, as this is a desk and i may be writing on it.

I have shot a few photos of the slab for your reference.

Also I purchased some stain and satin poly from Cabot, but have not decided if I want to use it yet, any thoughts on the best type of finish for this usage?

Thanks!

Brent


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

That looks like a good candidate for an epoxy pour.

I wouldn't stain it. :no:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/getting-ready-pour-epoxy-27306/


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## bugmcw (Jun 29, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> I wouldn't stain it. :no:


Yeah, i had a feeling i would get that response here, i just want it a little richer, most of the wood in my home is fairly dark. What type of topcoat would you suggest using? Anything that i can use to get a little more richness out of the wood color?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

bugmcw said:


> Yeah, i had a feeling i would get that response here, i just want it a little richer, most of the wood in my home is fairly dark. What type of topcoat would you suggest using? Anything that i can use to get a little more richness out of the wood color?


 
You could experiment with some boiled linseed oil, tung oil etc.

I added a link to my first post with epoxy info.  :smile:


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## bugmcw (Jun 29, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> You could experiment with some boiled linseed oil, tung oil etc.
> 
> I added a link to my first post with epoxy info. :smile:


Would i seal or clear after the tung oil? it will be heavily used as a desk, i work from home, and will hopefully need to resist water marks etc.

Thanks again for all your help!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

bugmcw said:


> Would i seal or clear after the tung oil? it will be heavily used as a desk, i work from home, and will hopefully need to resist water marks etc.
> 
> Thanks again for all your help!


Yes, epoxy after the oil has cured, that could easily be 30 days.

The epoxy is the most durable finish I know of. :smile:


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## bugmcw (Jun 29, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> Yes, epoxy after the oil has cured, that could easily be 30 days.
> 
> The epoxy is the most durable finish I know of. :smile:


30 days! Yikes, i was hoping for more of a weekend fix :laughing:

what is the downfall of just using a semi-gloss poly? longevity?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

bugmcw said:


> 30 days! Yikes, i was hoping for more of a weekend fix :laughing:
> 
> what is the downfall of just using a semi-gloss poly? longevity?


An oil based poly will give a very durable finish.
downfalls are drying time and the crap that ends up in the finish while it is still sticky.

I'm not familliar with water base poly. :smile:


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## bugmcw (Jun 29, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> An oil based poly will give a very durable finish.
> downfalls are drying time and the crap that ends up in the finish while it is still sticky.
> 
> I'm not familliar with water base poly. :smile:


That is definitely bound to happen to me as i am working in a dusty garage... I suppose i need to reconsider some things. /sigh


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

bugmcw said:


> That is definitely bound to happen to me as i am working in a dusty garage... I suppose i need to reconsider some things. /sigh


 
Wipe the piece with mineral spirits, that will give you an idea of what it would look like with just a clear coat. :smile:


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## bugmcw (Jun 29, 2011)

mdntrdr said:


> Wipe the piece with mineral spirits, that will give you an idea of what it would look like with just a clear coat. :smile:


hmm will do, who knows, i may just fall in love with it!


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Brent 

Most spalted gum comes up relatively bright and lively.
By the look of it , that slab has aged a bit since it was machined.
Try sanding a portion with a few grades of paper back to the light and bright wood , and then pour water over that area . The colour that comes thru the water , from the highly reflective wet , to the matte look of the drained and damp , is roughly how it will look when finish coated with whatever you apply , gloss or satin .

'Danish' oils and the like are sometimes known as rubbing oils , due to the nature of their 'wipe on wipe off' application .
Done properly , rubbing it past the tacky stage , the finish should almost dust free when it dries. 

Try out the process on the end of that slab , you may be surprised .

Jock


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## jim douglas (Feb 8, 2010)

This is tedious but I liked the results on a cherry table I built that had similar cracks. I mixed some epoxy resin & carefully filled the cracks. Sanded & mixed 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 tung oil & 1/3 poly. Use a cotton cloth & apply several coats. 
Good luck,
Jim


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## bugmcw (Jun 29, 2011)

jim douglas said:


> This is tedious but I liked the results on a cherry table I built that had similar cracks. I mixed some epoxy resin & carefully filled the cracks. Sanded & mixed 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 tung oil & 1/3 poly. Use a cotton cloth & apply several coats.
> Good luck,
> Jim


thanks for all of the tips guys, i guess the epoxy is the way to go with these hairline cracks, another trip to the store it is!

brent


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## bugmcw (Jun 29, 2011)

so i rubbed some mineral spirits on the slab to see what type of color would come through and it wasn't quite as rich as i had hoped it would be, here are a few photos, this is about what they looked like in person too. I bought some epoxy and will get to repairing the cracks sometime today or tomorrow

I actually really like how the live edge came out and how the spalted portion did too, but the natural wood is so light, there isn't much character to it. Thoughts?


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