# Building a Wooden "Safe"



## jonas190 (Jun 11, 2011)

I'm thinking about making a low-cost "safe" from rebar-impregnated hardwood. The main goal is to be a deterrent: too large and heavy to move and too difficult to break into in a short span of time. I'm not concerned with fireproofing (heck, I chose wood!), but I do want it to be as strong as possible using only joinery and internal bracing. The end result will have hidden hinges, a carpeted interior, dehumidifier, hooks and rests for guns, and a couple shelves. My theoretical locking mechanism is a deadbolt on each side of the door.

Since most cabinets aren't approached from this direction, I'm hoping to get insight on the best joints for pry resistance, i.e. strong in all directions. Obviously, the top and bottom must also meet that criteria.

The thickness of the wood will be at least one inch everywhere, and I'd like to do most of the joinery with my new router. Thoughts about internal bracing are welcome too.

Looking forward to your ideas!
Devin


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I do not know what "rebar impregnated hardwood" is. Can you explain?

A little over 20 years ago I built my daughter a storage/file cabinet. It had two file drawers on the right and storage on the left.

On the bottom of the left side I built in a steel safe. This was about 1 ft. square. It was made from 3/16" cold rolled steel except for the door which was 1/4" steel. As I did not want to try to be fancy I did not use a standard safe style of lock. I used two manul security locks.

The entire unit was made from oak. As a result of the steel and oak it is very hears and hard to move. It is also burglar resistent.

It has been awhile since I inserted a picture but I will try. If th is does not work I will come back later and get it to work.

George


----------



## Locodcdude (Oct 24, 2010)

I think it's definitely possible. You may want to make it be a wood carcass on the inside, then shell it with rebar, then another hardwood carcass on the outside of the rebar. This will give you theoretically 3 layers of bracing. For joinery, Dovetail corners that are pinned with metal dowels of some sort? I think a rabbet would be weak for this application. Basically all of the ideas I could think of right now..


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Wood is fireproof...sorta*

In a house fire sometimes the heavy beams sustain little damage.
At any rate, I can envision a double walled plywood box with rerod spaced in between the layers to discourage sawing and a metal frame to discourage prying. 
On the other hand, a well built cabinet with interlocking lap joints and double layer walls, no rebar, will be almost impenetrable by ordinary means. A thief will not know enough to bring a saw or "dualsaw" to gain entry. So, don't leave one laying around close by either!
It seems the the locking and hinging means will be the weak point to ordinary pry bars. An exposed locking bar system would make an interesting display or talking point if left exposed. Round or flat bars that pass through metal plates with holes that can be locked in place with a heavy duty padlock.
On the other hand, making the cabinet seem "innocent" may be a better idea. Hidden in plain sight so to speak. It could be disguised as a dresser with fake front drawers. Maybe a speaker cabinet with fake speaker circles behind stretched fabric for the door. It will also be heavy similar to a large speaker cabinet. 
A magnetic lock that requires the use of a powerful magnet to move a cross bolt may work rather than a traditional "lock"
Search hidden locks: http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=utf-8&fr=ytff1-tyc7&p=hidden%20locks&type=
Good project! :thumbsup: bill

BTW if you can afford the space a small closet or space under a stairway can be secured as well as anything. That was my first
"vault" I used a couple of dead bolt locks, keyed alike and metal strike plates. No handle in the door to pull on for leverage, just the locks. Hinge pins were exposed, but again the thief will have to come prepared with tools if yours aren't available. I hide the cutting torch on the welder so no one can cut off the locks on my tools. Avoid crimes of "opportunity" ...it was there so they took it.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

My favorite place to build a "safe", is inside the toekick of a cabinet. The floor of the cabinet is hinged with euro hinges (full overlay). It can be a tight fit, as the hinge side can be up against the cabinet wall. Under a bank of drawers, or just to look like the bottom of the cabinet, goes undetected that it opens.

For an invisible lock for cabinet doors or drawers, this lock requires a special "key" to open.












 







.


----------



## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

That's not a bad idea at all. I've been looking for ideas on similar hiding spots for tax documents, and such. And a magnetic locks allows the use of a lock without leaving obvious access points.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I guess that jonas190 posted and ran.

I am still wondering just what rebar-impregnated hardwood is.

G


----------



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> My favorite place to build a "safe", is inside the toekick of a cabinet. The floor of the cabinet is hinged with euro hinges (full overlay). It can be a tight fit, as the hinge side can be up against the cabinet wall. Under a bank of drawers, or just to look like the bottom of the cabinet, goes undetected that it opens.
> 
> For an invisible lock for cabinet doors or drawers, this lock requires a special "key" to open.


Toekick = great hiding place.

You can get a set of 4 of those magnetic locks at the BORG for about $20. They're "Tot-locks," marketed as child-proofing locks. I put some on our cabinets after my boy figured out the plastic latches and they cannot be forced open without the magnet.


----------



## jonas190 (Jun 11, 2011)

Hey guys. Sorry I've been away. I really like the toe kick idea. With Euro hinges: would you still need a gap as wide as the lid between the hinges and rear wall for the lid to open all the way?

Tomorrow I'm going to go look around at some furniture stores for a cabinet idea that I can adapt. Since I'm leaving town for a month and time is becoming a concern I might opt to buy something and modify it rather than make from scratch.

As to the rebar impregnated hardwood: Basically drilling a hole or mortising a channel across several pieces of wood and putting rebar inside for reinforcement from a hammer or saw. Tedious, but it was just an early idea. In the end I think there is just no getting around the ratio of efficacy vs. weight/effort in that design. If I can put some weather stripping in a hidden compartment and stash some silica in there I think that might be the best plan.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*FYI one thread per subject is adequate*

If there are no responses in a day or two, or someone may suggest a different subject heading, then make your second posting. As you can see it causes confusion otherwise. :blink: bill


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jonas190 said:


> Hey guys. Sorry I've been away. I really like the toe kick idea. With Euro hinges: would you still need a gap as wide as the lid between the hinges and rear wall for the lid to open all the way?


The floor (lid) can be wall to wall. You grab it on the overhang it has over the toe kick. It can be hinged on the same side as the cabinet hinges, and will open to a height that is permissable (what's available).



jonas190 said:


> As to the rebar impregnated hardwood: Basically drilling a hole or mortising a channel across several pieces of wood and putting rebar inside for reinforcement from a hammer or saw. Tedious, but it was just an early idea. In the end I think there is just no getting around the ratio of efficacy vs. weight/effort in that design. If I can put some weather stripping in a hidden compartment and stash some silica in there I think that might be the best plan.


Routing grooves in the door to receive structural support like rebar would in actuality weaken the door. If that technique is desired, a sheet metal plate would be better for protection. With wood or composite doors, it's fairly easy to bust through, or break through where there are hinge mounts.

Multi panel exterior doors are weak the same way, as the lite can be bashed out of the rails and stiles.












 







.


----------

