# Precision Miter Saw



## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

I need some recommendations for a precision power miter saw. The scales that I work with are a variety of hard woods, but the dimensions are pretty small. Only about 2" wide and about 5/16" thick. So size and power on the miter saw are not big factors. The most important factor is precision of the cut. 

Any advice and recommendations would be appreciated.


----------



## Jim West Pa (Jul 27, 2010)

Absolutely beautifull stock work Ed !!! :thumbsup:


----------



## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

Jim West Pa said:


> Absolutely beautifull stock work Ed !!! :thumbsup:


Huh?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I think that was a brain furt!*

Adam..have you considered a table saw sled for precision cutting of smaller pieces? I would not like the blade exposure of a miter saw for very small pieces and holding them with anything less than a secure fixture. The table saw sled on the other hand, offers minimum blade exposure and the sled can have various angled pieces for fences for each type of cut...if I understand your process...? :blink: bill


----------



## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

I do understand the process. I just figured it would be easier to do with a miter than a table saw. Especially with the angle. I've never had precise angle cuts on a table saw.


----------



## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

This should do it for you.
Miter saw


----------



## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

If you can't get precise angle cuts on a table saw, there is something wrong with your saw, your blade or your technique. You can also get very precise cuts with most miter saws, again, it's the set up of the machine, the blade and your technique. When you need absolute accuracy and be able to repeat it, you won't be just putting the work on a standard table and fence and eyeballing to a mark. You would likely make a sacrificial fence and table with stops to hold the work securely and provide zero clearance backing, same basic concept on a table saw.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Gene Howe said:


> This should do it for you.
> Miter saw


I think you got the wrong link.

G


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I love that desert ironwood. There were others that I also liked, but that was the one that really caught my eye.

I have a Sprinfield 45 that I have owned 15 years and never even fired. Those would look good on it. How much are they.

George


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Adam..have you considered a table saw sled for precision cutting of smaller pieces? I would not like the blade exposure of a miter saw for very small pieces and holding them with anything less than a secure fixture. The table saw sled on the other hand, offers minimum blade exposure and the sled can have various angled pieces for fences for each type of cut.*..if I understand your process...?* :blink: bill





Olympus;262603[B said:


> *]I do understand the process.*[/B] I just figured it would be easier to do with a miter than a table saw. Especially with the angle. I've never had precise angle cuts on a table saw.


I wasn't certain what your process was for making the cuts...I'm sure you know what is is! :yes:

You may have mentioned it here at some point but I can't recall. I remember something about extensive use of a belt sander?
Without being specific and revealing your procedure I would assume there's a need for cutting the scales in thin slabs, making the angles precisely, and then rounding them on the sander. I'm pretty sure there are reliefs on the flat side for various projections which are probably done before rounding.

I agree with Hammer that if you're not getting precise cuts on your table saw, that it may need a tune up or a better jig/sled?

For safety reasons I recommended the TS, rather than any lack of accuracy with a miter saw. I have 2 sliding compound saws and chop saw and I don't like holding smaller pieces on any of them. 
Possibly a bandsaw with a fine tooth blade and then sanding to a
precise line or angle may be better. I donno?  bill


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Olympus said:


> I need some recommendations for a precision power miter saw. The scales that I work with are a variety of hard woods, but the dimensions are pretty small. Only about 2" wide and about 5/16" thick. So size and power on the miter saw are not big factors. The most important factor is precision of the cut.
> 
> Any advice and recommendations would be appreciated.


I've never used any of this stuff but I have heard some good reviews about them. 
http://www.proxxontools.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=29&idproduct=86


----------



## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

i have this saw







it's a Makita 10" sliding compound miter saw - it is EXTREMELY accurate!

if you are doing this for your gun grips (by the way real nice!) I too have concerns with small parts being held so close to the blade - even more so in a high qty.

but if you are dead set on a miter saw this one cuts great, and with the right blade the cut is smooth as glass, I would recomend a shop made fixture to hold the grips in an exact location for repeated cuts and would also allow for for you to keep the fingers away from the blade

hope this makes sense


----------



## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

Thanks for the tips. The cut I am trying to make more precise is the bottom edge of the grip. Right now I am using a bandsaw with a fine tooth blade, but there is still fluctuations with the blade, so I cut the scale a fair long and come back and detail the bottom edge with a file. I just thought a nice miter saw would make a nice, smooth, and even cut along the bottom edge that would save me the time of having to go back with a file. I'm not overly concerned about safety because even though the scales are only about 2" wide, the cut is on the very bottom and the scales are usually about 5" long to start with. I think I would have plenty of room for my hand to hold the scale on the saw.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

That Proxxon I linked to is designed for cutting small parts safely. The part clamps to the table and the table is rotated. Proxxon specializes in model makers tools and those need to be pretty precise. That is also reflected in the price. You can buy full sized equipment for what they get.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

wfs said:


> i have this saw
> View attachment 31881
> 
> it's a Makita 10" sliding compound miter saw - it is EXTREMELY accurate!


another Makita guy.....good!!!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## jim douglas (Feb 8, 2010)

If your looking for a precision cut you can't beat this cutter. Make your first cut with a saw & remove the last 1/16" with this. 
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6533

Jim


----------



## jraksdhs (Oct 19, 2008)

*umm*

For what your explaining a nice( anything from a rigid to a makita ) miter saw will do just fine. Blade selection is also VERY important. Good luck. Oh and I prefer Makita.....


Jraks


----------



## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

What should I look for in regards to a blade?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Some more things to consider*

When using a miter saw or chop saw, or RAS where the saw enters the work from above, the rotation of the blade and the teeth are trying to lift the work off the table. It must be held down and toward the fence firmly.
Now introduce the other issue of smaller pieces and you may have a safety concern....possibly...I donno?
If it were me I would use a table saw and a sled with a hold down fixture specifically designed for the angle and length of the pieces. In addition you have to make rights and lefts.... another concern.
This is why I wondered about your process earlier....slabs then angles, then lengths, then round over? You don't want to be cutting angles on rounded pieces that may shift. So, the order of operations may play a role in safety concerns, I don't know. The advantage of using the table saw is simply that the rotation of the blade and the teeth are pulling the work onto the sled or table rather than trying to lift it up. For me that is a major issue. I don't want small pieces flying around and blades close to my fingers. You are in a production mode and production work can be boring and lull you into a false sense of safety.... Oh I've done this a 1000 times.. sorta thing. :blink:
A sliding compound miter saw may be very accurate, but is it the correct tool for this application. I can't answer that, but I have my preferences.  bill


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Not trying to stick my nose in but.......

More often than not when working with smallish pcs,will cut on BS and finish to sq or scribe line on a stationary sander......either an edge or vert,belt sander.Especially,if the cut is gonna require sanding anyway......from a "finishing" standpoint as well as overall safety.BW


----------



## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

Well, I ended up getting a new miter saw. I got a Hitachi 10" from Lowe's, the model without the laser. I also got an Orange blade for precision fine cuts. I tried it out yesterday and it works great. Even for the small scales that I'm using it for. It's very accurate and the table stays nice and firm for my miter angles. The blade is great too. It has taken a lot of time out of my process and ensured a perfectly straight cut and correct angle every time. 

Thanks to everyone for all of the advice and recommendations. I appreciate the help.


----------

