# my first strip canoe



## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

I decided to build a strip canoe and bought Ted Moores book Canoecraft. Great book. So here is my progress. This picture is of the station molds all setup on the strongback and gives you an idea of the shape of the canoe. Sorry about the sideways picture.








Here is a side view









And here are the stems that were steam bent around the stem molds. The inner stems are walnut and the outer stems are cherry.








I have my stems attached to the stem molds and i am currently shaping them to accept the ends of my wood strips. I am using pine for the majority of the strips since it is cheaper than cedar and if i mess up it wont hurt as much. I acquired some cherry and walnut for free that i will use as accents, inwales, gunwales, seats, etc. It has been great fun so far. I was using a small trimming plane to shape my stems but decided to order a veritas flat spokeshave from Lee Valley Tools since the trim plane is a little too small for hands. I cant wait for it to get here!


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## BigBull (Feb 10, 2010)

It looks really good. I'm going to be following this one for sure, can't wait to see it come togeather.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Oh cool! I'm signing up right now.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Sign me up as well. Very interesting so far.


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## 65BAJA (May 27, 2012)

IN. :thumbsup:

What do you have planned for finishing it? Looks like a neat project.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Im using 6# fiberglass cloth and epoxy for the finish. The cloth is clear so when epoxied the canoe will look like it is varnished. I will put a final coat of varnish on it also after sanding the epoxy smooth.


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## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

I'm excited to watch this one. I'm a canoe head from way back and only dream of building my own some day. I've seen many made from cedar so this will be different being pine but the accent woods will be beautiful for sure. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Ostie (Dec 19, 2010)

Very stoked about this build! I'm waiting to attempt one myself within the next year, so I'll be following this one closely.


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

I'm excited about this to, I have always been interested in the process of boat building.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I will be watching this one. Looking forward to seeing how you make out. Keep up the great work.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

I Love how you labeled this thread "my FIRST strip canoe". It can be addictive, though I recommend going a little faster than I do with my builds/rebuilds. Enjoy it and don't forget to get out and paddle her once in a while before you start another one.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Your right frank it is addictive so far and i am already planning on a kayak for my fiance when i am finished with the canoe! I saw your kayak build on here and looked great. Have you finished it? I sure would like to see some pictures of it.


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## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

Looking forward to this build....


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

I have a suggestion... I built a stripper and befor I built it looked at some others had built, I did not care for the staple hole marks on finished canoe. I eliminated them by boring holes to the station forms and used an assortment of clamps, rubberbands , tape and hot glue to hold strips to the forms. I also numbered the strips as I cut them so when I attached them the color and grain blended better. and the biggie.. get some help when you get to the fiberglass as I KNOW its almost impossible to lay cloth and mix epoxy by yourself ! there are pictures in my photo album....


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

I saw your canoe and it is awesome, Groovy. I hope mine turns out that nice. That is a great idea as I was wondering how the staple holes were going to look. I will definetely have some help with the fiberglass. How did you cut the scuppers in your inwales? I would like to cut mine instead of using blocks.


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## Ostie (Dec 19, 2010)

What is the estimated cost to build one of these?


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Those are blocks I routed a cove on each end.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Ostie said:


> What is the estimated cost to build one of these?


Ostie, it really depends upon the wood you choose and local prices for sourcing that wood. I haven't built a full strip boat, but I've built S&G, a strip deck (still working on that) and several skin on frame boats. The full stripper will obviously cost the most to build and materials (in my area) run around $150-200 for wood (cedar) and probably another $100 for fiberglass and resin. I can get an 18 foot kayak out of that, glassed inside and out.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

I paid about $100 for four sheets of 5/8 particleboard and screws for the strongback and molds. You need alot of clamps so i had to buy 7 more c clamps from HF for $3 a piece and i will need more. Im using 1x4x8 pine from lowes for $1.50 a piece and will need about 25 for my 15 footer. My walnut and cherry for stems and inwales and outwales was free. Fiberglass and epoxy will cost me about $400, so that is the biggest expense. I can probably get it cheaper but ive heard the West System is the best epoxy and hardner. Cedar of course is a lot more expensive. So you can say it can cost any where from 700-2000 dollars. Im shooting for 700. So im sure ill have it planked and sitting on the strongback for awhile while i save for the glass and epoxy.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Wow, u cant even tell those are blocks! Looks great. Ill try the blocks and see if i can get them to look like yours.


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## 65BAJA (May 27, 2012)

US Composites is much less expensive than West. It's what I'll be using on my 11" speed boat. I heard about them from some friends in a high powered rocketry club. If it's good enough for a mach 1 plus rocket going up to 20K ft or more then I figure it's good enough for my 25mph speed boat. I did contact the company to ask about marine use. From what the guy said it was the bulk of their market. :thumbsup:


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Thanks for the tip. Im not too familiar with epoxy systems so this is a great help. I agree that if its good enough for aircraft then a canoe should be fine.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Wow! Their prices are great. They are about half the cost of West. Ill be using uscomposites for sure! Thanks again!


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## 65BAJA (May 27, 2012)

Save enough to build a 2nd canoe.:smile:

Oh, I didn't notice before. You're in FL. So are they.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

I have to agree on the US Composites option, they're a lot cheaper than most other sources for glass and epoxy. I make my "strong back" out of a simple 2 x6 with stations attached directly to it when I build skin on frame (SOF) boats. I suspect the extra material is needed when doing a full stripper, though. I've built a bunch of my SOFs for well under $100 each, though, so despite the beauty of a good strip boat, I'll probably just build SOFs henceforth.


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## gstanfield (Dec 23, 2011)

I build boats as a side job / hobby and I buy 99% of my materials from www.boatbuildercentral.com not only are they good folks to deal with, but they also have a support forum that's great and their prices are pretty darn good too!


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## gstanfield (Dec 23, 2011)

Also, I saw where someone made comment about staple holes. One trick I learned that works realy good is to do your initial fairing (sanding) after the strips are all laid and then take steamy hot water on a rag and wipe the canoe down real good. The steamy hot water will actually swell the wood a tad which will cause the staple holes to swell shut. Then sand again and start your epoxy work and you'll not even see a staple hole when you are done unless you are using very very light (in color) wood and even at that it'll be hard to see them really.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

I remember now hearing of the steamy rag trick from somewhere. Thanks for reminding of this. Ill try it out


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## gstanfield (Dec 23, 2011)

Certainly. Another benefit is that you get an early glimpse as to what the wood will look like when wet out


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## CarpenterJerry (Jun 15, 2012)

Nice. Even the station molds look like art. I have a facebook friend that builds these. Check out vanhalcanoes.com


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Great website with beautiful canoes. I hope i can sell them for what he is getting for them one day!


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## CarpenterJerry (Jun 15, 2012)

Yes John Van Hall is able to get a pricey amount for his canoes.


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## CasinoDuck (Jun 15, 2011)

subscribed:thumbsup:


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

So here is what i got so far. Im using short strips so im using butt joints to connect the strips. Im also going stapleless and using L shaped clamps where needed. And painters tape to keep the joints tight. The light wood is pine and tha accent strip is cherry. Anyone have a good clamping jig idea for clamping the planks to the stems? Im using tape now but there must be a better way.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Are you using the bead and flute router bits to make your strips? Here is a link to the bits I am talking about.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flute.html


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Those are the bits im using. They worked great. You can buy a single bit that has both bead and cove cutters on it but it is expensive and i could not find one with a 1/4" shank.


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

try rubber bands, big-uns! I got from an office supply store. you can add some screws to your forms and rig around the heads, S hooks are handy for rigging too. I also used some scrap strips bead side to protect the cove side that I was holding. I wish I had a picture because its hard to explain. But I know stapleless is the way to go...


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

So here is my progress so far. Im goin stapleless and its working out pretty good. Got a ways to go!


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## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

I am intrigued with the "stapleless" approach. I've only dreamed of making a wood strip canoe someday :boat: , but the holes from the staples always bothered me on any I saw so.

What type of glue are you using?

I assume you glue the entire length of the bead/cove joint, correct?

On your next pieces you attach could you take a few detail shots of the clamping system you are using (rubber bands)?


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

That will be no problem. Im using titebond wood glue the entire length of the cove. Im also using short strips and butt jointing them.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

The butt joining is the only thing I would have concern with in this build. Are you at least staggering the joints so they're not all at the same point?


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Oh ya. Definetely staggering the joints. Also placing a scrap piece of planking along the joint and clamping it to keep the the cove of the two pieces lined up while the glue dries


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Thats a great idea you have there for clamping strips to stations.


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Did you order the kit or did you make all the planks


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Oh no, i cut the strips from 1x4x8 pine and put a bead and cove on each strip with my router table. About 200 strips total. That alone took me about a week, workin a few hours after work. This is my "test" canoe thats why i went with pine. Ive learned alot along the way on the stapleless method. And i will be buying alot of the small metal spring clamps for the next one. Im using a mixture of c clamps and other random clamps i have and the spring clamps will be a lot faster. I had to use a few finish nails here and there where the planks were pulling away from the station molds, but i can easily fill those in later. Its been fun so far!


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## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

scoffey said:


> Oh no, i cut the strips from 1x4x8 pine and put a bead and cove on each strip with my router table. About 200 strips total. That alone took me about a week, workin a few hours after work. This is my "test" canoe thats why i went with pine. Ive learned alot along the way on the stapleless method. And i will be buying alot of the small metal spring clamps for the next one. Im using a mixture of c clamps and other random clamps i have and the spring clamps will be a lot faster. I had to use a few finish nails here and there where the planks were pulling away from the station molds, but i can easily fill those in later. Its been fun so far!


This is looking good. Very fun watching it come together! I've always been interested in building one, maybe when I retire.

I'm sure filling the nail holes will be easy, but for your next canoe maybe drilling clamping holes along the frame jig like you did for the front and back will prevent having to nail it? Its more work, but I think it will return a finer product in the long run. I'm not criticizing, its a great idea, just pondering other solutions. 

Either way I will be keeping up on this build, and hope you share any more that you do! Great work and I love the patience!


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

scoffey, I'd say you're doing a good job but with pine that boat is going to be crazy heavy. I would also recommend scarfing your strips together on the next build. It's a much stronger joint than the butt joint and almost invisible when done properly. That combine with stapleless construction makes for a very pretty boat.


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Like i said, this is my test canoe. When i do decide to use cedar on my next one ill be more comfortable with the process. Im going to try some scarf joints towards the bottom of the canoe so i can practice with that. Southern yellow pine is not that much heavier than cedar plus i dont plan on hiking this thing in anywhere. I have a landing on the Wacissa river here in Tallahassee less then a 1/4 mile from the house. I might name the canoe "Test Dummy".


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

I'm fixin to start my first canoe 
It looks like you are building yours outside has it made it difficult and do you have any advice or pointers you mind sharing that would help


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Only tough part of building outside is the heat and mosquitoes here in north Florida. I recommend not using tarps to cover your canoe or wood with because they leak, no matter how expensive they are. Use the rolls of plastic that come in 4 mil, 6 mil thickness, etc. Its called visquine, and im sure i spelled that wrong. If you have a pop up canopy tent use it. It keeps the sun off of you. I built my strongback out of particle board, so i used some paver bricks i had lying around an placed them under the legs to keep it off of the ground because particle board and water do not mix! You cant have enough clamps. If you think you do, buy 20 more. Im using c clamps and small spring clamps that i got at Lowes for $.99. Lots of duct tape. I use this as clamping also. When i see that there is some space between 2 planks i use the tape to pull them together. Lots of glue. Go ahead and buy the gallon jug of titebond. I recommend using the stapleless method. The staples dont always go through the planking and attach to the forms, and if they do they usually pull out over time. If you dont have it already, buy the revised version of "CanoeCraft" (one word). Its the best book to me anyway. Dont rush through it. The most imprtant part is getting the strongback PERFECT! If you rip and cove and bead your lumber as i did, keep them bundled up tight together so they dont warp on you. I found this out the hard way, but i made them work. Im sure ill think of more and when i do ill post them.


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks very much that's the type info I need 
Have you had any problems with your bear mnt plans


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks that's the kind of info I was looking for 
Have you had any issues with the plans from bear mnt


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

I had no issues with their plans. Im building the bobs special, but in CanoeCraft, Ted is building the redbird. These two plans are different. In the book he says to use 2 4x8 sheets of ply or particle board. This will work for the bobs special but not the redbird. The redbird needs 2 1/2 sheets because it is a wider boat. So be sure to know how wide your 0 station mold is before cutting out your molds.


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks alot I ordered my plans for the ranger prospector today I'm super pumped on getting started you've been a big help


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

No problem. Also, im not sure if the ranger is symmetrical or not, but if your molds are like mine and you are cutting 2 of each station mold and they are the same size, use a band saw and cut 2 at a time. Cut just outside the line. I used a jigsaw because i dont have a bandsaw yet, and its ok to use also. I used my combo belt disc sander to sand to the lines. Make sure your table is at a 90 angle to the sander so your station mold edges are at 90 angles also. This is very important so that your planks lay flat against the molds. If you shape by hand, use a good square to check the mold edges for square.


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Nice!! I'm sure I'll have more questions in time to come. You've been very helpful


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

What deminsion were your strips and roughly how many LF did you need


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## woodbutcher360 (Jul 1, 2012)

very nice


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

my strips are 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide. I just set my tablesaw fence to 1/4" and cut away. Im using 1x4x8 I bought at lowes so they are actually 3/4" thick. Id have to add up the LF but I bought 20 of the 1x4's and i think got about 8-9 strips out of each board. Ill have to get back to you on the exact footage


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks bud I was looking at getting cedar but man are they proud of it I may have to make a plan B I was trying to figure out how may I could get out of one board


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

How's the boat coming haven't seen a post in a while 
Finally got my plans today looking forward to getting started


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Had to put it on hold for awhile. Im getting married in october so havent had the time to get any further. Its ok though, itll be alot more fun when it cools down and the mosquitoes are gone!


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

No doubt about the heat and congrats on the up coming nuptials


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

married huh? gonna be awhile for boat building....


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