# Finish Repair Problem



## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

I have an impaitient friend that spilled some scented oils onto a table top. The oils were wiped off with a cloth, but the stain has been removed also, leaving a section of bare wood. I wiped down the effected area with paint thinner and let it dry. The surface felt dry and the thinner did no new damage to the uneffected areas. I then apply a dark Minwax stain, but in order to get it to match, have to leave a thicker than normal layer of stain on the surface. I did not wipe off the stain, let dry and reapply as many time as needed to get the color match because of her impatience. The next morning, the stain had not dried and was tacky. If it were up to me, I would have removed the panel (hinge), stripped and redone the whole panel.

The question is:
1) Was overnight not long enough time for the stain to dry? I'll check this evening, but I want to go back prepared.

2) In your opinion, did the thinner not adequately clean the surface and I have an adhesion problem?

3) Is there anything I can do differently?

4) I do have a can of gel stain that would closely match; should I clean with thiiner and use the gel?

Thanks


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You might have better luck with the gel.










 







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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

djg said:


> I have an impaitient friend that spilled some scented oils onto a table top. The oils were wiped off with a cloth, but the stain has been removed also, leaving a section of bare wood.
> 
> CHEMMY: you don't say if there was a "finish on it, all I'm reading is that it removed the stain?
> 
> ...


Chemmy


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Thanks all. I'm waiting to hear back from her to see if it's dry yet, but if not I'll try the alcohol and gel stain on the BARE wood spots.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> The next morning, the stain had not dried and was tacky.

That's to be expected with Minwax Wood Finish stains if the excess stain was not thoroughly wiped after setting for 15-20 minutes. The stain will not dry properly and any clear coat applied over the stain will not dry properly either. Wiping off is important for things to work right.

There is probably some of the scented oil remaining in the pores of the wood. A paint thinner would have just thinned the oil allowing it to penetrate deeper into the wood.

I would get a gel stain--as I think has already been suggested--and try that. Gel stains are formulated to stay on the surface and to dry no matter what their thickness.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Yes there was still the scent of the oils when I GENTLY heated the surface to dry the thinner and the alcohol. I rubbed down and then dried with alcohol several times, and then dried with the heat gun after each wipe down. Then I put on the gel stain. Hope it's clean enough now that it'll stick. It still looks like a patch job, though. As I said I would have removed the panel, stripped it completely, probably given it a light sanding and then restained and clear coated it. But did I say how impatcient she was??

Thanks


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

djg said:


> Yes there was still the scent of the oils when I GENTLY heated the surface to dry the thinner and the alcohol. I rubbed down and then dried with alcohol several times, and then dried with the heat gun after each wipe down. Then I put on the gel stain. Hope it's clean enough now that it'll stick. It still looks like a patch job, though. As I said I would have removed the panel, stripped it completely, probably given it a light sanding and then restained and clear coated it. But did I say how impatcient she was??
> 
> Thanks


" But did I say how impatcient she was??"

Yeah you did lol, still...... get ready to re-do it in the future when she comes back asking you to fix it right!!! lol :yes:


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## MNsawyergp (Jan 31, 2012)

Woooah! Hold the phone. Stain is for color, not to build up the finish. The finish that dissolved is probably a varnish or lacquer over a stain. Wipe off the excess stain...to where none comes off on a rag. let that dry overnight. Is there a ridge at the edge of where the finish was dissolved? If there is, you need to blend that out a little with 220 sandpaper, very gently. I can't help with color blending without seeing it so you will have to get the color right. Next, you have to seal in the stain and the area next to the defect with Zinsser sanding sealer. This is a universal sealer which won't react with other finishes. Call the paint stores or Menards, Lowes, or Home Depot to find it. Actually, you could cover the whole top with this sealer rather than the defect if you want, then add coats of Minwax Wipe-on Poly to the surface to give a final clear finish. You could try to coat just the defect and surrounding area, but it may never fully blend in.


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