# Keeping a wooden tub surround safe from water



## EyePulp (Oct 4, 2011)

Howdy - first post, so be gentle;
We're remodeling, and in the master bath have a circular soaking tub (40" diameter, about 40" deep) that we're undermounting in a raised platform. The top of the platform is rectangular, and I want to do a wooden surface for it, versus more standard countertop materials (soapstone, concrete, etc). I want to do this right though, so I'm really concerned about the way I finish & seal the wood top so that moisture isn't an issue for the wood.

I've looked at some of the "Bar Top" epoxy sealants, and I'm fine with that sort of finish on top, but I imagine I need to seal all sides, not just the exposed faces due to the high humidity the bathroom will see occasionally.

So my question is:
1) is it possible to properly seal this platform topper to a degree that it will have a long, happy life in the bathroom

2) if possible, what products should I be looking into to do this right?

The wood, if it matters, is coming from old pine nailers I recovered from the house when we started the remodel. I'm going to cut them into long narrow 1" strips and gang them together for a sort of butcher block effect. I'm planning on Titebond III for the glue, but any advice is welcome...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

EyePulp said:


> I've looked at some of the "Bar Top" epoxy sealants, and I'm fine with that sort of finish on top, but I imagine I need to seal all sides, not just the exposed faces due to the high humidity the bathroom will see occasionally.
> 
> So my question is:
> 1) is it possible to properly seal this platform topper to a degree that it will have a long, happy life in the bathroom
> ...









 
A two part pourable epoxy will work as good as any finish. How long it lasts will matter how well you do the finish. Your fabrication and glue choice is fine. If the tub is an undermount you'll have to caulk that well.












 







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## EyePulp (Oct 4, 2011)

Thanks for the response cabinetman;

I was wondering what sort of sealant I should use on the underside of the wood, like waterlox or something, or if I needed to use the epoxy everywhere.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would seal the entire piece of wood with a two part epoxy: top, sides and bottom.

And, if cost is not a factor, I would use teak just to be sure. Just pretend that you are replacing a wood floor in a boat.

George.


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## EyePulp (Oct 4, 2011)

Thanks for the reply George - unfortunately, cost is a motivating factor.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

EyePulp said:


> Thanks for the reply George - unfortunately, cost is a motivating factor.


Did you think doing the job correctly would be cheap?












 







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## Porphyre (Jan 5, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Did you think doing the job correctly would be cheap?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


"Correctly" is such a hard to define word. The CORRECT method in this situation is to use a non-rotting product, such as plastic.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Porphyre said:


> "Correctly" is such a hard to define word. The CORRECT method in this situation is to use a non-rotting product, such as plastic.


That would not be the correct method if the desire was to use wood. The original poster (OP) expressed a desire to use wood.

George


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## LabRat63 (Oct 5, 2011)

I would seal every surface with the two part epoxy


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## Porphyre (Jan 5, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> That would not be the correct method if the desire was to use wood. The original poster (OP) expressed a desire to use wood.
> 
> George


*You *suggested epoxy sealing or teak wood, if cost was not a factor.

*OP *said cost was a factor.

*Cabinetman *implied he was doing it incorrectly if he didn't use teak and further implied OP was "cheap".

Ultimately, wood is a poor choice for a lasting surface in this usage. So *I *said plastic was a more "correct" choice.

The job has constraints. 1) Wood 2) Within a budget.

Suggesting that not using Teak is "incorrect" or "cheap" is asinine. "Wood" fits the constraints, but the price of teak does not. If the budget was large enough to pay for teak, then, yes, Teak would be correct and not using it would be "cheap". However, teak is too expensive, ergo it is not the correct choice.

Cabinetman chose to ignore the budget constraint in his suggestion. I chose to ignore the "wood" constraint in mine.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Porphyre said:


> *Cabinetman *implied he was doing it incorrectly if he didn't use teak and further implied OP was "cheap".


What I said was:


cabinetman said:


> Did you think doing the job correctly would be cheap?


I don't see in my statement that I mentioned Teak at all. In fact, the OP didn't mention Teak either. I didn't imply that the OP was cheap, but rather the overall process done correctly would not be cheap. If you are going to criticize members get your info straight. Your inferences are way off.



Porphyre said:


> Ultimately, wood is a poor choice for a lasting surface in this usage. So *I *said plastic was a more "correct" choice.


When we address questions we should try to maintain advice within the parameters of the OP's question. If you think wood would be a poor choice, what justifies any fact to that statement? The OP wants wood, but you decided that the correct material would be plastic. If you don't know how to suggest finishes that might last in that environment just say so.



Porphyre said:


> Suggesting that not using Teak is "incorrect" or "cheap" is asinine. "Wood" fits the constraints, but the price of teak does not. If the budget was large enough to pay for teak, then, yes, Teak would be correct and not using it would be "cheap". However, teak is too expensive, ergo it is not the correct choice.


Again, if you read the posts, you would have known the OP wants to use Pine, not Teak.



Porphyre said:


> Cabinetman chose to ignore the budget constraint in his suggestion. I chose to ignore the "wood" constraint in mine.


If you read the posts, you would have seen that any mention of any budgetary concerns wasn't until post #5.












 







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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Porphyre said:


> *You *suggested epoxy sealing or teak wood, if cost was not a factor.
> 
> *OP *said cost was a factor.
> 
> ...


For some reason you are not correctly reading the posts.

I suggested entire coating of two part epoxy. Cabinet man agreed.

In addition I suggested that is cost was not a factor to use teak. Two seperate and distinct suggestions.

Cabinetman said nothing about it was incorrect if teak was not used.

Oh BS. Why am I bothering to read this for you. You need to go back and read the posts and see what was really said.

George


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## Porphyre (Jan 5, 2011)

*Sayonara*

GeorgeC - Dunno why you're taking offense to anything because I never said anything to or about you. Grow thicker skin.

Cabinetman - I liked this board until you and LeoG started having your little primadonna moments so often. Dunno why good guys like Kenbo and Lola Ranch continue to spend time here. Newsflash - calling beginners cheap or stupid because they don't want to use the same methods or materials that a professional woodworker, when working on his customer's dime, would use is a turn off. One less newbie here, I'm off to another woodworking forum.


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## RedArrow (Jan 19, 2011)

I hate to jump into this thread just for this, but..... are you serious porphyre?


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## EyePulp (Oct 4, 2011)

Wow, I step away for a day or two, and... raging silliness ensues. =)

I didn't mean for anyone to get too worked up, and I didn't take cabinetman's point negatively. If I had my druthers, I'd be doing this surface in soapstone - but that's not in the budget for this part of the remodel. I have looked at teak as a possibility, and again, the cost started to add up.

So I wondered if it would be possible to use the wood I saved during the demo phase of this remodel, and seal it sufficiently that moisture won't be an issue. It sounds like the epoxy is the answer, and I'm moving forward on that basis.

Are there better options? Of course. Better at a similar price? That's gonna be tough.

I assume ya'll would say if this was off the rails stupidity to attempt, but it sounds more like it's doable but just less than optimal. Is that fair?

Also - I'll be epoxying every surface, with a heavier/second coat on the faces that will be exposed.


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