# Sanding scratches under first Topcoat



## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

Building a new maple counter top for a cabinet in a kitchen and after I put the first coat of finish on I could see some sanding marks under the finish. Is my only option to sand off that first coat and start again.

Using General Finishes Arm r Seal wipe on topcoat after one coat of wood conditioner, didn't stain the wood at all.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

wlofton said:


> Building a new maple counter top for a cabinet in a kitchen and after I put the first coat of finish on I could see some sanding marks under the finish. Is my only option to sand off that first coat and start again.
> 
> Using General Finishes Arm r Seal wipe on topcoat after one coat of wood conditioner, didn't stain the wood at all.


Consider it a learning lesson wlofton, yes sand it down with what ever your last grit was only one step finer, OK? You should have at least sanded it to 220 if not do so - 120/150/180/220/ then if you want to make sure no scratches are left you can apply a good coat of Mineral spirits to it and look to see, while wet, if any scratches are still visible, if not, then let dry and then recondition and coat again.

Normally i put a light colored pigment stain on the bare wood before i even start sanding with the coarsest paper i would use [120] till all the stain is removed [a prep stain] If any scratches or other anomalies are present they will stay colored until they have been sanded out. "THEN" you know for sure and can continue sanding with the finer grits and continue with the finishing procedures. OK?:yes:


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

Unfortunately sanding down is the only option. I have the good fortune of having a wide belt Drum sander but I still then sand with a 6" orbital at 150 grit and then with a Porter Cable flat sander at 180 grit

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## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

Appreciate the advice guys! I thought sanding was my only option to correct it.....the right way!

I originally went through 100 grit sanding drum then ROS 120/150/180 but didn't go all the way to 220 because I wasn't staining. Maybe I still should have.....you're right Chemmy, it's a learning experience!

Thanks for the tip of (pre) staining prior to any sanding!:thumbsup: Will use that.

Will sanding it down and start over. Will try to get pictures up before the weekend. Thanks guys!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

wlofton said:


> Appreciate the advice guys! I thought sanding was my only option to correct it.....the right way!
> 
> I originally went through 100 grit sanding drum then ROS 120/150/180 but didn't go all the way to 220 because I wasn't staining.
> 
> Will sanding it down and start over. Will try to get pictures up before the weekend. Thanks guys!


You could have used a stripper to remove the finish. That's a bit quicker and dust free. You might find that 180x is fine enough. Always sand with the grain. You might experiment with scraping. That produces a very smooth finish. 

For some woods 220x may be too smooth to get good stain penetration. It may stain lighter if used. Experimenting with project samples is the best way to tell.

I've made a habit of using an open coat sandpaper. Garnet, and aluminum oxide I find can get a build up which can cause scratching.










 







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## MNsawyergp (Jan 31, 2012)

Next time wipe your project with a rag that has paint thinner on it before you put any finish coats on. This will wet the surface and any scratches will show up. Let the paint thinner evaporate then sand out the scratches. Paint thinner won't raise the grain.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

MNsawyergp said:


> Next time wipe your project with a rag that has paint thinner on it before you put any finish coats on. This will wet the surface and any scratches will show up. Let the paint thinner evaporate then sand out the scratches. Paint thinner won't raise the grain.


CHEMMY 1st post = """ then if you want to make sure no scratches are left you can apply a good coat of Mineral spirits to it and look to see, while wet, if any scratches are still visible, if not, then let dry and then recondition and coat again.""":bangin::laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

chemmy said:


> CHEMMY 1st post = """ then if you want to make sure no scratches are left you can apply a good coat of Mineral spirits to it and look to see, while wet, if any scratches are still visible, if not, then let dry and then recondition and coat again.""":bangin::laughing:


For some unknown reason your post may not have been read, and another suggestion was made similar to yours. Not an uncommon occurrence. Others have experience that they share. Could be the poster thought his suggestion was more clear. Maybe that poster has you on "ignore", for some reason. 










 







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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> Is my only option to sand off that first coat and start again.

Yes, if you want to eliminate the scratches. Always sand with each grit until you remove the scratches left by the prior grit. Always finish by hand sanding in the direction of the grain with the same grit as your final machine grit. Use a felt or rubber covered sanding block to keep the surface flat.

Another hint. Wet the surface with mineral spirits or alcohol when you finish sanding. This will not only preview the color of the wood if you put a clear finish on but will also highlight any glue blobs or sanding miscues. I like to use alcohol as it evaporates faster than mineral spirits and I can get back to work faster. Which ever you use be sure to let the thinner evaporate completely.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> For some unknown reason your post may not have been read, and another suggestion was made similar to yours. Not an uncommon occurrence. Others have experience that they share. Could be the poster thought his suggestion was more clear. Maybe that poster has you on "ignore", for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I found it humerous C'man, that why the laughing emoticon. it doesn't matter or bother me. So please cool it with the guardian angel of the site comments ok? :yes:


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## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

My first time working with hard maple so it has been a learning experience. What I have figured out is that I DO like the wood, it machines very nicely and once finished....when it's done correctly.... I really like the look of it!

C'man.... I just got me first card scraper from Woodcraft as I was buying a new jack plane for a shooting board I made. I will practice my technique with the scraper, I already know it's going to be a very versatile tool! One I imagine I will be reaching for quite a bit. 

I usually do wipe all my projects down with mineral spirits prior to any finishing. I guess I just got complacent and in a hurry to get the finish on this one.....lesson learned! 

Thanks guys! Play nice while I'm gone! :laughing:


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