# Any extra ideas for this workbench?



## BamaMarine (May 3, 2011)

I'm finally getting around to building a workbench for my man/gun room(spare bedroom). I plan on bolting on a small vice for gun work eventually and some reloading equip. I'm going to put a shelf or two on the wall above it with a good light underneath it. 

So far I've got it planned at 6' long 30" deep and roughly 38" high. The legs are sistered 2x4 and all other supports are 2x4 as well. The shelves are both 3/4 hardwood ply with supports and I think I'm going to use a couple 2x12s and a 2x6 with a sheet of 3/4 hardwood ply glued and screwed(countersunk) for the top.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

BamaMarine said:


> I think I'm going to use a couple 2x12s and a 2x6 with a sheet of 3/4 hardwood ply glued and screwed(countersunk) for the top.


It sounds like you are thinking of laying the 2x's flat to make the width and lay the 3/4" ply on top. My thoughts are that the lumber laying flat may be subject to warping and twisting, which would affect the integrity of the plywood top.

You may benefit more by using 2x's on edge as a grid. 2x4's would work, 2x6's would be better. If I had my way, I would just double up 3/4" plywood For a 6" support, and make the grid out of that.










 







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## mveach (Jul 3, 2010)

When I use to reload, I used a bench that I could set at because my back gets tired easily. That would require room for your legs if you wanted to sit at it.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

By the pictures I'd say he has a place to sit figured out


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

The height should be 1/2 of your height, so you're not bending while standing at the bench.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Some general rambling from a longtime(30+ years)reloader......


Set up the height for standing,then you can find a chair that suits.An adj height,roll-around chair is what I use.Also think about mounting press or press's to a metal subplate.A 12 or 16" sq of 1/4" aluminum or steel can be drilled/tapped for bolts.This subplate really spreads out the load and allows for a MUCH less heavily constructed bench.To the point that the bench ain't much more than just cabinet work.This will work for 90% of your reloading needs.IF you get into bullet swaging then theres some pretty stout forces.........but even full length resizing on '06 sized cases just ain't that big of deal.Cpl layers of 3/4 ply is more than sufficient.Put that on top of cabmet units.Doors are nice....as are a few drawers.Lighting is crucial.Pigeon hole style bxs work good on counter top against back wall,the top of which can go the scale.It helps to have it closer to eye level.Some upper cabinets w/doors works well.I keep "store bought" bullets in upper cabinets but cast stuff goes in a drawer'd box on counter between the space from top to bttm of uppers.Counter is 1/4" Masonite over sumthin(too lazy to go look.BW


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

DST said:


> By the pictures I'd say he has a place to sit figured out


It would be very difficult to sit and work at a bench 38" high. He would have to build a lower section.

I guess you could use a stool, but I want something with a back.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> It sounds like you are thinking of laying the 2x's flat to make the width and lay the 3/4" ply on top. My thoughts are that the lumber laying flat may be subject to warping and twisting, which would affect the integrity of the plywood top.
> 
> You may benefit more by using 2x's on edge as a grid. 2x4's would work, 2x6's would be better. If I had my way, I would just double up 3/4" plywood For a 6" support, and make the grid out of that.
> 
> ...


I have never had any problem with laying the 2x's flat. That is exactly how my workbench in the garage is made, with a sheet of masonite on top. That bench is 10' long by 2' wide. Made with 2x6. 

I would think that he would have even less problems in a house where the environment will be more constant.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

BWSmith said:


> Some general rambling from a longtime(30+ years)reloader......
> 
> 
> Set up the height for standing,then you can find a chair that suits.An adj height,roll-around chair is what I use.Also think about mounting press or press's to a metal subplate.A 12 or 16" sq of 1/4" aluminum or steel can be drilled/tapped for bolts.This subplate really spreads out the load and allows for a MUCH less heavily constructed bench.To the point that the bench ain't much more than just cabinet work.This will work for 90% of your reloading needs.IF you get into bullet swaging then theres some pretty stout forces.........but even full length resizing on '06 sized cases just ain't that big of deal.Cpl layers of 3/4 ply is more than sufficient.Put that on top of cabmet units.Doors are nice....as are a few drawers.Lighting is crucial.Pigeon hole style bxs work good on counter top against back wall,the top of which can go the scale.It helps to have it closer to eye level.Some upper cabinets w/doors works well.I keep "store bought" bullets in upper cabinets but cast stuff goes in a drawer'd box on counter between the space from top to bttm of uppers.Counter is 1/4" Masonite over sumthin(too lazy to go look.BW


I agree with this. Putting a good top over cabinets will certainly increase your storage space. My garage workbench is built over recycled kitchen cabinets along with newly built cabinets. The top is 2x6 lumber 10' long by 2' wide. I covered it with a sheet of 1/8" masonite for a flat smooth surface. The masonite is cheap and can easily be replaced as it gets dirty or banged up.

Your original design could be used as a car stand. I think it is over designed for weight bearing.

George


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