# Project critique



## crockettlarry (Dec 13, 2020)

I am almost done with this project: https://go.rockler.com/plans/dowel-speaker-box-plan-lr.pdf

I had a lot of tearout on the pieces. I suspect it is because I am budget-limited and used Home Depot wood (Pine, I guess), instead of the suggested hardwood. I also had tear-out on the holes for the dowels, but probably same reason. I used plywood for my sacrificial wood on the jig, but it was smooth, so I don't think not having MDF was a problem, but tell me if I'm wrong. My drill battery was a little slow, but I replaced the battery, ran faster, still had tearout.

Another thing that was problematic was cutting the excess dowel. I damaged many of the pieces (I'm making 3). Is there an art to cutting close to the surface, or should I depend on sanding to get leveled? (I had stained the box dark walnut, but planned to leave the dowels unstained for decorative contrast. Then seal it all with polyurethane.

Last, I tend to overglue, and then can't get enough off, and then the staining doesn't look just right. Tips on this, other than using less glue, obviously?

A lot to unpack, but I need critique and help.

Larry


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Well, I see a lot of novice "mistakes" but they can be corrected! A brad point drill will not tear out at the surface, but will "blow out" when coming through the bottom, so a back up board will prevent that issue.
When sawing a dowel flush to a finished surface use a sheet of aluminum flashing, very thin, to prevent the teeth from scratching it. Use a Japanese "pull saw" with little or no set to the teeth to further reduce any scratching.


https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Japanese-Woodworking-Flush-Flexible/dp/B071471SDF/


Use a small soldering brush to get the glue down inside the hole and only a thin coat on the dowel itself. Cut the dowel off as soon as possible and wipe the excess off quickly using a wet rag. Then sand it completely flush after it's dried.


----------



## crockettlarry (Dec 13, 2020)

I used the drill bit recommended by Rockler in the instructions. Is that a boo boo in their instructions?

I also used a Japanes Pull Saw, again the same one in the instructions, but I didn't use aluminum flashing. Thanks for the tip!

Larry


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

crockettlarry said:


> I used the drill bit recommended by Rockler in the instructions. Is that a boo boo in their instructions?
> 
> I also used a Japanese Pull Saw, again the same one in the instructions, but I didn't use aluminum flashing. Thanks for the tip!
> Larry


I shoulda looked at the plans, but the dowels are huge at 1 7/8". I'd still use the pull saw and the flashing however. It will be difficult drilling at a 45 degree angle to avoid tearout no matter which drill is used. If it were me, I'd avoid that process entirely and use splines in the miter, unless that look is your only preference. Splines with miters will make a virtually invisible joint if that's what you want? If you do want some type of external spline across the miters, then use this approach on the table saw:


----------



## crockettlarry (Dec 13, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> I shoulda looked at the plans, but the dowels are huge at 1 7/8". I'd still use the pull saw and the flashing however. It will be difficult drilling at a 45 degree angle to avoid tearout no matter which drill is used. If it were me, I'd avoid that process entirely and use splines in the miter, unless that look is your only preference. Splines with miters will make a virtually invisible joint if that's what you want? If you do want some type of external spline across the miters, then use this approach on the table saw:


The dowels are only 1/4". The 1-7/8" hole is for the speakers.

I was only doing the dowels because it was in the instructions and I wanted to learn something new, so it wasn't my preference, really. It was just there. But I do like the look of the finished box; I don't like the look of what my result is.

As an aside, my shop is 30 minutes from my house. I try to do a lot (too much?) when I'm there because of the longish drive, so part of my problem is that I get in too big of a hurry.


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If you plan on doing a lot of exposed dowels get a flush cutting saw that has teeth set on one side only.



https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/japanese/32928-veritas-flush-cutting-saws?item=05K3601&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-PK_Kyt6H8v6zg52r4F4qGhwt3r48KXhXjBhEkUNTO-XAYSYMCR_xhoCE_gQAvD_BwE


----------



## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

FrankC said:


> If you plan on doing a lot of exposed dowels get a flush cutting saw that has teeth set on one side only.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/japanese/32928-veritas-flush-cutting-saws?item=05K3601&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-PK_Kyt6H8v6zg52r4F4qGhwt3r48KXhXjBhEkUNTO-XAYSYMCR_xhoCE_gQAvD_BwE


This is the one I use. Picked it up locally and it gets the job done just fine. Double Blade Fine Cut Pull saw


----------

