# Crown Molding Angles



## huskerwaz (Apr 23, 2010)

I am trying to cut some crown molding that is going around a 90 degree corner. I have tried cutting them at a 45 degree with a 45 degree slant and I tried 22.5a nd a 45 debree slant but not working.

Huskerwaz


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

Without getting confusing, you could simply set the moulding up on the table of the miter saw as it sits on the wall, prop the back from moving, set the angle for 45 degrees and make a cut.

Another form for that setup is:
.


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

Are you cutting it flat on the miter table? If you have a compound saw, you can do this, but you have to know the spring angle of the crown. There are tables that will give you the correct setting of both the miter and the bevel of the saw. 

You can also cut "nested", and this method allows you to use the standard miter setting (ie 90* corner = 45* cuts). You place the crown "upside down and backwards" on the miter table, at the angle it will sit on the wall. 

Is this an inside corner or outside? If it is an inside corner, then I recommend that you cope the joint. Much easier to get super tight joints that stay that way.

Check out other posts on the forum, as there has been a lot of conversations regarding crown in the past. Also, you can search around for videos demonstrating techniques. YouTube probably has several, This Old House, Gary Katz, etc


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

You may find *THIS POST* helpful. It explains not only "upside down and backward", but _why_ you do it that way. Complete with purty pictures.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

What Mike suggested is, by far, the easiest way to cut crown molding. Just remember upside down and backwards. (Cut the left piece on the right and the right piece on the left.) Use the 45° setting on your saw. Compound angles are not needed when using the jig as Mike explained.


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

Trail/error is the only method that works for me, since there is rarely ever a true right angle in a house. And every corner is different. But the basic upside down and backward is a starting point.

I once found a bunch of formulas for calculating crown molding angles in Fine Homebuilding. Pumped them into my scientific calculator and never used them. They only work for perfect angles.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

Truth Just Bill,
Only in a perfect world or as a math equation on a piece of paper. Too many things like strapping, shtrk, plaster, joint compound and out of square walls get in the way on new houses let alone when they're 80 to 100 plus.

I always purchase enough stock to include test materials. Lumb yds keep their molding in non climate controlled sheds, quite often the trim has some pretty curvy rolls, bends cupping to deal with.

I too use the back cope method, when most trim is still so wet, back cope makes joint repairs simpler


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## huskerwaz (Apr 23, 2010)

Thanks so much for all of your help.


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

Here is a fantastic exercise to help plant the 'UPSIDE DOWN & BACKWARD' concept in your brain.

Using the 'nested' method, but *NOT* cutting anything 'UPSIDE DOWN or BACKWARD', simply cut two pieces of crown molding to go around a corner at the bottom of your wall... at the baseboard.

This is not a trick. This is straight forward. You cut what you're looking at.

See how easy it is to cut? And how easily it fits together?

NOW............................. pick up those two pieces of molding, and take them straight up to the ceiling... left piece in your left hand, and right piece in your right hand. Try to get them to fit. They won't work at all, will they? No way.

BUT............................. put the left piece on the right, and the right piece on the left. (or BACKWARD) at the same time rolling them UPSIDE DOWN................. and What happens?

THEY FIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wow! How about that? It's called The 'UPSIDE DOWN & BACKWARD' concept.

*Here's another neat tip for remembering which way to cock the saw.*

For INSIDE corners, the LONG POINT of the molding cut will be on the INSIDE of the saw bed... (farthest away from you)

For OUTSIDE corners, the LONG POINT of the molding cut will be on the OUTSIDE of the saw bed... (closest to you)


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Willie,
Simply brilliant.


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

rrich said:


> Willie,
> Simply brilliant.


Thanks. And, candidly, I think so too. :laughing:

I have struggled for ages with the problem of getting the whole "reversed on the ceiling" concept (UPSIDE DOWN & BACKWARD) across to students. This just came to me one day... as clear as a bell.

*Here's another neat tip for remembering which way to cock the saw.*

For INSIDE corners, the LONG POINT of the molding cut will be on the INSIDE of the saw bed... (farthest away from you)

For OUTSIDE corners, the LONG POINT of the molding cut will be on the OUTSIDE of the saw bed... (closest to you)

(I've included this in the text above too.)


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## Ryan133 (May 13, 2010)

*Related but different issue dealing with crown moulding*

I've seen inside and outside corner blocks and I'm sure I've seen blocks that 'join' two runs of moulding as not to have to cut any angles / bevels / etc but I cannot seem to find anything online. Can anyone help me out with what these might be called? I saw something called Dentil blocks but that doesn't seem to be what I'm looking for.

Thanks,

Sorry to hijack your thread.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

http://crownmoldingcornerblocks.com/


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## timberrat (Apr 24, 2010)

*crown moulding*

cabinetman has a good image i usualy use a board that in 6-8"x24" roughly and hot glue it to the stationary base of my miter saw. i put a peice of crown moulding upside down and make shure the back and bottom of the crown molding is touching. and glue the board to the saw base tight to the crown molding this will allow for good repeat cuts which is very important. now as said earlier their is never a perfectly square corner in a house which is why i make jigs. i will cut two pieces of crown molding 6-8" one end with a 45 degree angle and the othe with a 45.5 degree angle (make sure to mark each one right after you cut it so you know which is which. now take a tape measure and measure from the bottom of the miter cut back exactly 1" and score a line on the bottom of the crown molding do this with all cuts. than put them up on the wall and find the angle that is best and take a utility knife and transfer the line to the wall. now you know the correct angle and the exact length of the board. measure from the wall to the mark and be sure to add the 1" and cut the crown you will have the perfect length and angle every time. it may take a little time in the begining but will save alot of time and frustration later. hope this will help


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