# Finish for 1911 pistol grips



## Hendo446 (Nov 25, 2009)

I am getting ready to make a set of grips for a 1911 pistol and I am looking for tips on what to use to finish them with. I will be carrying the pistol at work (I'm a cop) and the grips will be exposed to severe punishment. What type of finish can I use that will stand up to weather, sweat, banging around, and general hard use. I would also like to be able to buff it to a mirror polish. I realize that no finish will protect them from the hardest scratches or banging around, but I would like to get close. 

I have already made one set of grips for fun that I dont carry at work (below). I used tung oil on these and was happy with the results, although I am still trying to get that final "mirror" polish on them. Thats just a matter of practicing technique though. 

I have learned everything by trial and error so far so any tips or input would help.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A 2 part Automotive clear coat?*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/automotive-clear-stained-wood-chair-13417/
Consider this type of finish. Very durable and high gloss. Your requirements are extremely tough. A rubbed on oil finish can be easily recoated whereas a film finish like a poly, varnish or clear coat will be a little more work. JMO :thumbsup: bill


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## APJ (Nov 10, 2009)

I have to say Hendo , the grips are beautiful, not to mention the Springfield I'm in Canada and our gun laws are ridiculous , a bit like our Government. Guns don't kill, people do. You need to give your first child , left eye, ( makes it hard to aim ) and your soul to own a hand gun . 

If you would like to see what I mean click here 

http://www.canadianlawsite.ca/gunlaws.htm 

Adam


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

APJ said:


> ................in Canada and our gun laws are ridiculous , a bit like our Government. Guns don't kill, people do. You need to give your first child , left eye, ( makes it hard to aim ) and your soul to own a hand gun .
> 
> If you would like to see what I mean click here
> 
> ...


 
This is not a political site. This is about grips for this mans gun and not about laws.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Hendo*

Epifanes is a marine fnish. It is high gloss, crystal clear and very durable.
It can stand up to weather, sweat, and general hard use. As for the banging around, it can handle quite a bit of that although no finish is all that durable. I use it on my boat and in certain places it gets stepped on regularly. It can be purchases in marine stores such as West Marine. It runs about $40 / qt.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Hendo446, do you have a spray gun and a place to spray? If so then polyester is the best possible finish. They use polyester on very high-end car dashboards and steering wheels. Next best would be a 2k urethane product like Milesi (for wood products) or House of Kolor (for automotive products). If you can't spray then the epifanes products are excellent (Their PP varnish is excellent but VERY $$$) and Rock Hard table top varnish is very good also.


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## Hendo446 (Nov 25, 2009)

I never would have thought to look in a Marine store. Great Idea. Thanks! And the only spraying I have done has been out of a rattle can. Due to space constraints I will have to save that for another time.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Hendo,
Here's one more option for you. 
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003979/9201/Tru-Oil-Gun-Stock-Finish--8-Ounce.aspx

My buddy uses this and it ends up as a deep glossy finish. 
Mike Hawkins


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## APJ (Nov 10, 2009)

Tony B said:


> This is not a political site. This is about grips for this mans gun and not about laws.


Well excuse me for posting something that he might be interested in , for him being a law man in all.
This post wasn't intended only for you to read. Do you think there might be others interested in this info. I guess everyone is entitled to their 2 cents , just like I did !


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

APJ said:


> Well excuse me for posting something that he might be interested in , for him being a law man in all.
> This post wasn't intended only for you to read. Do you think there might be others interested in this info. I guess everyone is entitled to their 2 cents , just like I did !


No, I will not excuse you. This is a woodworking forum and not a political forum. There are places for that and oftentimes interesting posts get booted because someone turns it into a volitile political issue. As a side note, a lawman enforces the law and doesnt make the laws. If this continues we can send this to the moderators and they can sort it out because I am not going to respond to you any longer on this issue.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

These guys sell a 2 component automotive urethane in a spray can! They also have some other really cool finishes in spray cans and also for those of us with spray guns.

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/sc/speedclear.htm


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Rick Mosher said:


> These guys sell a 2 component automotive urethane in a spray can! They also have some other really cool finishes in spray cans and also for those of us with spray guns.
> 
> http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/sc/speedclear.htm


I need to start going back to automotive paint shops more often. I remember when I first got into woodworking (shortly after the invention of the wheel) we would always say that the automotive finishes are eons ahead of woodworking finishes. It makes sense when you think about reasearch and development going in the direction of the biggest market.


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

About 30 yrs ago I built a Thompson Center Hawken, .50 cal percussion, walnut stock. I used tung oil, maybe 8-10 coats. After many years of shooting, it still looks like new. And anyone that has used black powder(no pyrodex) knows how harsh that can be.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Nice job on the grips Hendo. I noticed them when I signed in and the scrolling gallery at the bottom of the site happened to be showcasing them. But this is the picture I saw . . . . . . 









I'd said to my wife "Hey look at these nice grips." Then I said "Huh? Something's wrong with this picture. What's that lever on the right side? :huh: " 

Took me a few seconds to figure it out. :stuart:

I've been trying to decide what i want to use for mine. Problem is I have too much to choose from. I've traded for wood from all over the world and have too decision paralysis. Leaning toward Curly Koa or Bubinga.

Hope you'll post an update when you get the finish on. Did you take pics of roughing them out etc? I haven't delved into a tutorial or anything. Did you use factory specs as a starting place or just measure your old ones and go from there?


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## Hendo446 (Nov 25, 2009)

Rick, that spray stuff looks pretty sweet. It would be perfect for someone with my limited resources. 

Tex, sorry but didnt take any pictures of making them. I made them before I found this wonderful website and didn't think about it. I used the factory grips as a template for the ones I made. Good luck with yours. Those in the picture are actually my third attempt. The first two sets were the "error" part of learning by trial and error. 

Thanks again for all the information everyone!


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

The good folks of Birchwood Casey produce a product that is perfect what you are you doing called Tru Oil. Tru Oil is a hard finish designed for gun stocks and pistol grips. Its a simple wipe on finish which you simply rub multiple coats on with your fingers. Its easy to do, inexpensive and produces an excellent finish. Its only about 8-14 $ depending on where you buy it. Wal Mart use to carry it, but any sporting goods store that sells firearms will probably carry it.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

A lot of electric guitar builders even use Tru Oil as a high luster neck finish.


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## Randy Shelton (Dec 5, 2009)

*Nice job on the grips*

My two true loves are guns and woodworking. Nice 1911 and the grips you made are spectacular. There is nothing wrong with Tru Oil. Randy


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## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

I'm a grip maker as a small side business. If you're a police officer, I wouldn't recommend anything with a gloss finish. Gloss finishes like polys and spar urethanes would be excellent choices for a set of grips that you want to use for a BBQ rig. I would be hesitant to use that finish on a practical set of grips. Urethanes will be slick, especially if you have sweaty or wet hands. If you put a scratch or gouge in the finish you'll notice it more in the urethane and you'll have a longer process of removing the scratch or gouge. My recommendation would be a hand rubbed oil of some kind. Tru-Oil is a favorite of mine. I also use a lot of tung oil and marine teak oil. Other people like to use linseed oil. 

I personally use my own grips in the field because I want to know how they hold up. I don't want my grips to be "just for looks". I find that in the summer, the urethane finished grips become more slippery from hand sweat whereas the grips that are rubbed with oil will tend to absorb some of that sweat. 

If I can help in any way, just let me know. Nice looking grips too, btw.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Oly,

Do you do your own dying and stabilization, or buy the blanks that way already? 

Nice looking grips, and your prices are very reasonable. Looking at the price of the stabilized blue-dyed boxelder burl grips I'd guess you do it yourself, or else you have a source for it that's as reasonable on the wallet as you are. 

Good point on avoiding slick grips for a service sidearm.


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## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

No, I don't do the dying or stabilizing myself. I'm fortunate enough to have some agreements with several wood suppliers who treat me well. Some of them are family friends, so I get a bit of a break there. It's kind of my little niche in the market. I don't have all the fancy computerized equipment, so I can't compete in the $20 grip market. But since I am able to _usually_ get good prices on wood, I can make a grip that is comparable to the $75 to $100 for about half the price. 

And it's just mainly a hobby that I do on the side. Definitely not going to get rich doing this, but if I can make enough profit to upgrade a machine once a year and replace old files and stay stocked in sandpaper, that's all I can ask for. I mainly do it for the joy of finding really neat looking wood.


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## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

Those are some very nice looking scales.


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## Hendo446 (Nov 25, 2009)

Olympus
Those are all good points and I have considered them since originally posting this (I was still all excited about the gips I had just made when I decided to make a set for my duty weapon and didn't really think it all the way through). So here is what I decided: I am still going to make a set for my duty weapon, but I will only use them when I wear my dress uniform for ceremonies. Reasons: I can't and wouldn't want to have anything TOO showy or flashy, my stock grips take a BEATING just getting in and out of the car, and you are absolutely right about smooth grips not mixing well with sweaty hands. 
So I will still need all the good advice I have gotten about finishes for the ones I do make (thanks again everyone!) when I get around to making them. It might take me awhile to get the new ones made though. Due to the usual hustle and extra duties of the holiday season I have had to put that project on a back burner. That, and on top of my regular job, I have a wife and two daughters who keep wanting my attention for some reason. Although my 7 year old daughter IS getting pretty good at sanding! And add to all that I have a few other wood projects that I just couldn't resist getting started on (gonna use some of the finishing advice here on those too). 
I guess this is kinda off the subject of my original question, but if someone in my same situation comes across this, I hope it saves them a few minutes in their planning phase or gives them something to consider that maybe they havent thought of. 
I'll keep yall posted either here or in a new thread when I have some results to show. 
Chris


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