# build in ?



## catoway (Feb 3, 2012)

im trying to come up with a way to put doors on a, build in/ tv/shelf,about 8' 6" h. by 6' 1" w 13" deep with the 50" tv in the center.they dont wunt to see the tv when its not on .so how do i build the doors so they will go away when the tv is in use?:blink


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

catoway said:


> im trying to come up with a way to put doors on a, build in/ tv/shelf,about 8' 6" h. by 6' 1" w 13" deep with the 50" tv in the center.they dont wunt to see the tv when its not on .so how do i build the doors so they will go away when the tv is in use?:blink


A pic would help. Pocket doors, track that slides turns 90' then back.
Tell em not to be cheap. Enclose the TV with some eglass. It would look awesome 

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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

Sliding door with counter weight. The center door in picture slides up with one finger to reveal a Flatscreen TV. Custom MDF counter weight makes door lift as if it weighed as much as a feather
PS please go in an Edit your Post to "Built-In"
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## catoway (Feb 3, 2012)

Corbin3388 said:


> A pic would help. Pocket doors, track that slides turns 90' then back.
> Tell em not to be cheap. Enclose the TV with some eglass. It would look awesome
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


where&what are the hinges called?
and the piece has not been built yet.its going to be only 13" deep would that be enough? thanks for you time.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

catoway said:


> where&what are the hinges called?
> and the piece has not been built yet.its going to be only 13" deep would that be enough? thanks for you time.


 





 
The hardware consists of cabinet side mechanisms that slide in and out, and attached thereto is a follower strip that carries euro hinges. It can be called pocket door hardware, or flipper door hardware:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21577&filter=flipper door

Most of the hardware should be about 3" longer than the door is wide, so when the door opens and pushes back, the whole door goes into the cabinet.










 







.


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> The hardware consists of cabinet side mechanisms that slide in and out, and attached thereto is a follower strip that carries euro hinges. It can be called pocket door hardware, or flipper door hardware:
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21577&filter=flipper%20door
> 
> Most of the hardware should be about 3" longer than the door is wide, so when the door opens and pushes back, the whole door goes into the cabinet.
> ...


Yup he just beat me to it. Still say eglass is the way to go

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## ArmedFerret (Aug 24, 2011)

Eglass has many definitions. Perhaps you'd be kind enough to elaborate for us less edjumicated folks?


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

ArmedFerret said:


> Eglass has many definitions. Perhaps you'd be kind enough to elaborate for us less edjumicated folks?


panels use a lamination process which encapsulates a PDLC film between two or more glass sheets. By means of a minute electrical current, users can immediately switch the MagicGlas™ from clear to private (opaque) and vice versa. When the electrical supply is switched on, the liquid crystal molecules align, the panel instantly clears and light passes through. When the power is switched off the liquid crystal molecules are randomly oriented, scattering light, and the panel becomes opaque.

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## jacksmith1 (Jun 10, 2013)

you build shelf on front and door will be build on side of shelf then your problem will be solved.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Your unit would need to be deep enough to accommodate the width of the door sliding in to it, plus any extra needed for the hardware (which you won't know until you at least spec some specific hardware). 

In lieu of having adequate depth, maybe you could make a pocket in the wall behind the unit to accept each door when folded in. That would buy you another 4" anyway...


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