# Grizzly table saw circa 1986



## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

*Grizzly table saw circa 1986 *Update**

I've been looking for a used contractor or cabinet saw for a few weeks (just trying to find the right deal). I read the tips on what to look for and the classifications in the sticky threads here and they've been a huge help.

I'm going to look at this saw tomorrow and I'm wondering if there are any specific things I should keep my eye out for with Grizzly saw this age? I know it's a very reliable brand and a 25+ year old saw - if well taken care of, can still have many years left. But any "Grizzly specific things I should look for?

He's asking $400.00, but I think I can get him down to $300.00-$325.00

Here are a couple of pics:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Realisticly the arbor bearings are probably of stock size and a motor is replaceable so I would say the saw could be used for the rest of your life. Personally I'm not too impressed with the Grizzly brand. It's just cheap equipment like Harbor Freight.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

$400 for a steel pipe fenced contractor is a bit steep, IMHO. 1 hp dual voltage motor is nice if a bit light on power. lack of a splitter/blade guard assembly would be a problem as it wouldn't be $10 to replace. $200-300 (tops) is my best guess.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I think at 300 that's a ripoff. You should be able to locate a craftsman of the same vintage for somewhere in the 100-200 range, and then add a good fence for about what he's asking. At that, you'd have a bigger motor, a better fence, and pretty close to the same quality saw.


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## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

Wow, all good to know! I thought Grizzly had a better reputation than that. I'm also headed out to look at a Powermatic later nine afternoon, I don't know much about this saw, I've only seen one pic. and it hard to tell too much about it from that. He's asking $950.00, which again seems a bit high, i think $700.00-$750.00 is right if its in really nice shape. It also 220v so I have to figure the added cost of converting/adding another circuit to my shop.

Here's what the owner says about it:

"The saw is about 15 years old and I have used it intermittently as a
hobbiest. It is a 220V, single phase, 3 HP motor. I have not had the cabinet
saw station assembled recently, so the pictures will be of the cabinet saw
itself. I can pull the other components off the shelftonight*to photograph,
if you're interested. The saw and it's parts have been well cared for and I
silicon-spray the table surface and cover it with a moving blanket to keep
it protected. It's a good saw."

I have attached the picture I took this morning which I hope is helpful. It
was a little hard to get to in the garage!*


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

That's likely a good saw....but a few things that concern me. Silicone should be nowhere near woodworking tools....you'll have to ensure every bit of its removed or you'll have finishing problems. Second....things that sit idle for years need belts, bearings, motor bearings ect sometimes, so I'd want to see it in operation. 

Don't get me wrong....the grizzly isn't a bad saw....just the craftsman ones of that era are real workhorses. 

There are good new saw options in the 1k range, so I agree the powermatic needs to be cheaper given its condition...


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I had on of those Grizzly contractors saws. I also purchased it in 1986, mine had a 1.5 hp motor. I found that a little under powered so I replaced it with a 2 hp, 3,425 from Granger. I used the saw for a number of years I even put a Unifence and link belt on it. My problem with the saw was blade alignment I could never get the best of it. I even drilled the adjustment holes over size. I ended off removing the fence and motor and gave it to my Son-in Law. I ended out buying a used Unisaw with the pipe type fence system. I was able to reuse my Unifence. 

BTW, I would not give more than $100.00 for the Grizzly. I think when it was new it sold for $295.00.

If it were me I would check out the Powermatic. If you can get the price down that would make a real nice saw.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

$400 is waaaaaay high. $150-$175 is reasonable for that saw IMO. It's made by Mao Shan, and there are many nearly identical saws with a myriad of different logos slapped on them. The Grizzly name plate is about the extent Grizzly was involved with this saw back in 1986. It's in decent shape, and has grated cast wings, but $400 is more than it cost new. $400 should buy a pretty darn nice used table saw...I don't think this is the one.

The saws below all basically have the same guts, and came from the same factory. 








































This one is currently $175 on CL:


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Screw said:


> ....... He's asking $950.00, which again seems a bit high, i think $700.00-$750.00 is right if its in really nice shape.......


looks like a powermatic. left tilt but a splitter/blade guard assembly; no riving knife. if it's got a t-square fence, and is complete, $900 would be a good price IMHO. less if it's old enough to have round pipe guide rails for the fence system. also, lack of components (miter gauge, splitter/blade guard) are good points to haggle over.


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## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

Well I guess this is not the right saw  I see quite a few Delta Unisaws available, but they seem like SOOO much saw. My shop is not that big and I'm afraid the constant moving around of the saw would screw it up.

I'm obviously a newb when it comes "real" saws. I've been working on a Ridgid TS2400 for 8 or 9 years and while it's a fine jobsite saw, it leaves a lot to be desired for some of the finer work. Not to mention that the blade drops 1/16" with every pass over a data bade! Maybe I should consider a Unisaw, they seem to be easy to get parts for should the need arise and and it's certainly more power than I'll ever need.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If you pickup a unisaw in good shape.....it could be the last saw you ever need.........


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That Griz should make for a decent saw, but they're asking more than twice what it's worth (IMHO). It's a full size, cast iron saw with a belt drive induction motor, which is generally a step in the right direction. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to send an email about the Griz telling them that's severely overpriced, and make a reasonable offer....or keep looking until you find a better deal.

Here are a few that look like better deals and/or better saws to me:
http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/tls/3970185267.html
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/tls/3911168876.html
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/3947917747.html
http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/tls/3957616923.html


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## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

More proof of how much I don't know! 

I saw all of those adds and other than the DeWalt I didn't recognize any of them as even decent saws, I couldn't tell you why, I just didn't. Turns out the saws I was supposed to look at tonight both cancelled anyway so I'll inquire about about about those tomorrow. But just as I'm diving into "research table saw mode" my family and I leave for Europe for 3 weeks. If one of these saws works out to pick up this weekend that'll be great, but I may have to put it on hold for a while.

Again, thanks everyone for all the tips and advice!


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The ABC's of table saws....start here. :thumbsup:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Screw said:


> More proof of how much I don't know!
> 
> I saw all of those adds and other than the DeWalt I didn't recognize any of them as even decent saws, I couldn't tell you why, I just didn't. Turns out the saws I was supposed to look at tonight both cancelled anyway so I'll inquire about about about those tomorrow. But just as I'm diving into "research table saw mode" my family and I leave for Europe for 3 weeks. If one of these saws works out to pick up this weekend that'll be great, but I may have to put it on hold for a while.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for all the tips and advice!



The Dewalt or Craftsman would be the ones for me......the fence on the craftsman is a nice fence....and that saw is probably the most widely available saw of this style. Parts are easily available......and the saw has a pretty good reputation. If I recall....ones with that fence, and the cast iron wings are pretty rare.


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

The Craftsman looks like it's in great shape and priced well. Is the fence upgraded? It looks identical to the current Craftsman/Ridgid fence, not one back from when that saw was sold. Personally I think that fence is very under-rated.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

rbk123 said:


> The Craftsman looks like it's in great shape and priced well. Is the fence upgraded? It looks identical to the current Craftsman/Ridgid fence, not one back from when that saw was sold. Personally I think that fence is very under-rated.


That fence was offered on the Emerson saws at the tail end of their craftsman run. Most ridgids also came with it.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

i would go with a new ridgid 4512. thats what i'm upgrading to when i get into my new house. 

its $549 i think and has some great features like switching to 220, 36" wide extension, an aftermarket drop in for use with a router, great fence too.


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## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> That fence was offered on the Emerson saws at the tail end of their craftsman run. Most ridgids also came with it.


It looks a lot like the fence on my Ridgid 2400 which is horrible! Maybe they've been redesigned, but mine is off nearly 3/16" from front to back consistently. It's the whole reason I'm looking for a new saw.


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## rustbucket (Nov 13, 2009)

Screw said:


> It looks a lot like the fence on my Ridgid 2400 which is horrible! Maybe they've been redesigned, but mine is off nearly 3/16" from front to back consistently. It's the whole reason I'm looking for a new saw.


I had a Craftsman contractor saw from the 80's that had a crappy fence. I picked up a Vega for a couple of hundred, and it's been great. 

That Powermatic should be a really good saw. Looks like a 66. If I were closer I would jump on it!


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> That fence was offered on the Emerson saws at the tail end of their craftsman run. Most ridgids also came with it.


i have the same fence on my gray ridgid ts2412. holds it's settings and is rock solid once adjusted properly and locked down.



gideon said:


> i would go with a new ridgid 4512. thats what i'm upgrading to when i get into my new house.
> 
> its $549 i think and has some great features like switching to 220, 36" wide extension, an aftermarket drop in for use with a router, great fence too.


the 4512 is a nice saw, as long as a unit without the "blade/miter slot alignment changing with blade elevation issue" is located. and what is *"an aftermarket drop in for use with a router" ?*



Screw said:


> It looks a lot like the fence on my Ridgid 2400 which is horrible! Maybe they've been redesigned, but mine is off nearly 3/16" from front to back consistently. It's the whole reason I'm looking for a new saw.


the 2400 is a job site saw and it's fence system is different from the one of the linked c-man.



rustbucket said:


> I had a Craftsman contractor saw from the 80's that had a crappy fence. I picked up a Vega for a couple of hundred, and it's been great.
> 
> That Powermatic should be a really good saw. Looks like a 66. If I were closer I would jump on it!


the less than optimal fence system on older c-man 113s is quite different from the one on the c-man KS linked. the fence on the linked c-man, although not a t square like a bies or a delta t2, is nonetheless a first rate and eminently usable fence.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Screw said:


> It looks a lot like the fence on my Ridgid 2400 which is horrible! Maybe they've been redesigned, but mine is off nearly 3/16" from front to back consistently. It's the whole reason I'm looking for a new saw.


the newer fences are great on the ridgids. love the one on my folding saw.


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## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

QUOTE=gideon;504752]the newer fences are great on the ridgids. love the one on my folding saw.[/QUOTE]

That good to know! I couldn't get over to look at/pick up the Craftsman or the DeWalt - just too much to do before vacation and I'm sure they'll be gone when I get back. But in the lat week my air compressor crapped the bed and I picked up a big enough job to justify a planer and a joiner (woohoo!). But with the budget only slightly increasing, I'm going to go with a solid contractors saw and upgrade it in the future.

Thanks again for all your help guys, it's been invaluable info.


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## Doomi (Aug 5, 2013)

Just registered to mirror what the rest of the posters are saying. I just picked up a Mao Shan badged one for $35 a month back.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

toolguy1000 said:


> i have the same fence on my gray ridgid ts2412. holds it's settings and is rock solid once adjusted properly and locked down.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


you extend the right table out and theres an extra table that fits in the gap which accommodates a router for use with the ts fence.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

gideon said:


> you extend the right table out and theres an extra table that fits in the gap which accommodates a router for use with the ts fence.


got a pic of one?


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## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

So I went with a new Rigid 4512. 

I've got a friend who is an assistant mgr. at a local HD and he gave me "discount" - he matched a non existent Harbor Freight coupon for $50.00  So for just over $500.00 I went with the new saw with w/warrantee and support over a used one. I kept getting nervous that the used saws I was looking at had been worn out or misused and I don't have the experience to tell for sure. 

The 4512 is plenty of saw for what I'm doing and if I need to I can always upgrade. I like that can add cast iron wings and there is room for a drop in router table (I don't have room for a full a dedicated RT).

So thanks to everyone for the knowledge and tips, it made my decision much easier.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Screw;512327...I've got a friend who is an assistant mgr. at a local HD and he gave me "discount" - he matched a non existent Harbor Freight coupon for $50.00 :) So for just over $500.00 I went with the new saw with w/warrantee and support over a used one........ [/QUOTE said:


> wow, the list price for the 4512 in my market is $500 @ HD. applying a 20% HF coupon gets the pre tax price to $400. what's the 4512's list price in your market?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I think the price went up to 550 recently.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

FYI....anyone looking to buy a new saw right now....the usually more expensive craftsman is on a pretty good sale right now. 

http://m.sears.com/productdetails.d...itemSrc=Online&threshold=0.0&fullFillment=DDC


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## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

toolguy1000 said:


> what's the 4512's list price in your market?


Its 529.00 here (and on the website)


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Screw said:


> Its 529.00 here (and on the website)


boy, that stinks. here in the NYC metro area, it's still $499, or $400 after a HF 20% coupon. where are you located? i guess saving a little over 5% is better than saving nothing at all. 

while i personally like the 4512, the first thing i'd do is check it's blade to miter slot alignment with the blade @ 1" elevation and then at 3" elevation. some saws seem to vary their miter slot alignment as the blade's elevation changes. not a good thing and, from many reports, there's no field remedy. if yours has that condition, return it for another one. once one is located without that issue, it is reportedly a good TS offering a lot of value.

congrats on the buy.


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## Screw (Nov 25, 2012)

toolguy1000 said:


> where are you located?
> 
> ...check it's blade to miter slot alignment with the blade @ 1" elevation and then at 3" elevation. some saws seem to vary their miter slot alignment as the blade's elevation changes. not a good thing ...
> .


I'm just outside of Boston, I'm surprised there is a difference in price at all, let alone only being 300 miles apart. This may be the first time ANYTHING has been cheaper in NY 

The miter issue does kind of concern me, but I'm not sure I even know exactly what you mean. How would I check it? I've just checked a bunch of measurements with my square and I'm not finding any noticeable differences at any height.


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