# Another router table - comments?



## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

Hey there - so I'm reaching out to see what you think. I'm the kind of guy who will research til his eyes hurt, then execute to nearly what he wants with some improvisation along the way. With that in mind, I've come up with a router table plan that I think is fairly simplistic, easy to build, and uses little more than 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood, some scrap 2x4, casters and t-track. 

The main cabinet is an old bathroom sink cabinet that I already have, just sitting in my basement collecting dust and holding my clamps. Why not make it into something useful??? 

I thought of a way to make a guard useful and somewhat flexible. I'm thinking of cutting a stock piece of 1/2" plywood 3"x3" and also make a matching 1/2"x3" hole above the bit. Nothing fancy... it can slide in and out of the fence. If pushed all the way in, it will hide inside the dust collection cubby. Or you can pull it all the way out and hide it somewhere. Only thing is I can't see through it or adjust the height... I can do the same thing out of plexi, which would allow more visibility, but I still can't adjust the height this way.

I'm thinking build a base to raise it up a little bit, and also to make it more mobile. Then build a top out of ply, route some dado's for some t-track, cut a hole for a plate, build a fence out of scraps, and viola! A new table! Let me know what y'all think. Overall dimensions are 36" x 22" x 40.5" (L x W x H).


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i would at least - double layer the top for stability (esp with slots), spring for an aluminum fence (~ $30) you can throw a piece of oak on the front for more heighth, get a decent mounting plate that has minimum flex. why do i say these things, had these problems, btdt.


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

Tim - I was thinking of getting a plate from HF (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331), but haven't been able to find a fence for only $30... plus, as many of us are, I'm on a tight budget already. The t-track I already have. Good thought about doubling the thickness of the top. That alone would eat into the $30 fence budget! LOL


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

while doubling the top for a stable surface is the most important, and a stiff mounting plate a close second. the fence is relatively minor, just has to be straight and square. but http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1383&filter=router%20fence i've built homemade finces like your design for my drill press table. they are ok. and, you could always upgrade as the bucks roll in. nice drawings by the way!


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

TimPa said:


> while doubling the top for a stable surface is the most important, and a stiff mounting plate a close second. the fence is relatively minor, just has to be straight and square. but http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1383&filter=router%20fence i've built homemade finces like your design for my drill press table. they are ok. and, you could always upgrade as the bucks roll in. nice drawings by the way!


 
That is one great price for a router table fence and also included a dust port. If I had not made one my self just like it I would jump for one myself. By the way a great table top can be had by getting a sink cut out from your local cabinet shop or sometimes the big box store sell them back in the cabinet section. The formica top makes for a great smooth surface. I was lucky enough to get a corian top sink cut out from a local cabinet builder for $0.00. :thumbsup: They said take what I want its only collecting dust. I also doubled the top thickness by adding 3/4 ply that was on sale a HD. I bought the guide rails from Rockler as a set which included the "T" bolts and knobes, but like I said go for the Rockler fence.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

You can find parts to make your own fence at Peachtree Woodworking. 

http://www.ptreeusa.com/routertablefence.htm


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I would definitely make the guard out of plexiglass or something clear that you can see thru....I like the slide out concept though. 

I'd also plan for some DC and/or storage with the space below...or at least build it so it can be added later. 

Have fun! :thumbsup:


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

knotscott - there are 2 - 2.5" holes for DC, one in the back of the fence and one in the back of the cabinet. There's plenty of room inside the cabinet, I dont' know what I want to store in it yet, so I'm leaving it empty for now. I'll configure up some plans for storage once I kinda realize what I'll be putting down there. There are 2 small drawers currently on the right half, but I'm thinking they'll be in the way of the router hanging down. We'll see.

I do like the idea of a $30 fence... sounds like a good price, but I might have to build one for now and save my pennies. I like the idea of getting a cut out scrap from a store - haven't really thought of that one. thanks!

Any thoughts about the plate from HF? Anyone have any success or problems with it?


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## garryswf (Aug 17, 2009)

Check your messages


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Table top*

I would double the thickness of the top.
I also would get (i have one ) a insert to mount the router to.

T-slots for the fence adjustment are a must.

Build a box around the router for more dust collection and add shelves, drawers and doors.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Why not make the guard an "L shape" and drop it in from the top, rather than horizontally. You could then make it long enough to give you some options about height adjustments with either a "lock" pin for height adjustment or just a sliding height adjustment such that the guard rides on the top surface of the wood. Some minor slopes on the edges should allow it to "lift and slide" along the surface of the wood without too much trouble.


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

*fence / guard idea?*

So maybe a guard like this? If I can get a piece of durable plastic, I'm sure I can cut it like wood right? Then fashion something like this. I can have 2 holes in the back of it (to keep it vertically straight) and a matching elongated hole through the fence. This way, with a few bolts and nuts, I can adjust the guard up and down. I like this better, but now I can't adjust the depth like I could before...

I've also added (for very quick reference) some t-notches in the fence so I can add stuff. Still not sure about the height on the face of the fence, but any suggestions would be welcome!


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

Actually - let's do that better, how 'bout making it inset so the face is flush? Now the face of the inset will keep the guard nice and straight.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Definitely a T track on the fence so you can mount featherboards easily.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Eusibius, that's pretty much what I had in mind, only I'd put the guard at the top for more range coverage.


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## Back to the Wood (Dec 19, 2009)

Great looking plan. Like you, I've been reading everything I can find about router table plans. I'm planning to build a fence with a split face so I can adjust the outfeed to account for removed wood when necessary. Maybe you or some of the others here can tell me if this is worth doing.

I was fortunate to have someone give me a half sheet of 3/4" plywood. I cut it in half and doubled it up. Then I went to the local Habitat Restore and got a 2'x4' piece of formica for $0.50. So, if you have your top and want to find a surface for it, check for a Habitat Restore in your area. I get lots of things there. It also helps that I volunteer at their construction and they give me 25% discount, so I actually only paid about $0.40 with tax, and while I was there I bought a gallon of semi-transparent deck stain for $8.00. It's hard to beat their prices and it helps them raise money for homes.

Bob


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

Hmm - good thought about Habitat ReStore... I've never been there, but have always wanted to check it out. Maybe I'll donate a few things while I'm there!

I've been thinking alot about my fence. I'm re-doing the entire thing thinking that a split fence is going to be better in the long run for 2 reasons:
- you can adjust the opening width
- you can adjust in/out feed for removing wood...

So, with that, I'm working on a new fence. Haven't had much time to work on it lately, but plan on getting to it again soon. I'll post another soon.


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## Back to the Wood (Dec 19, 2009)

I am just starting to learn Sketchup so my plans are paper and pencil. The part that I'm having trouble with is how to mount the bit guard on a split fence. I liked you drawing for the guard, but it was for a solid fence.


If you could come up with an idea of how to mount it on a split fence, it would be a great help. I was thinking of mounting it to the infeed side and extend over the bit, but I haven't got it figured out yet. I'm not in a big rush. I've got a long way to go before I need that part.

Thanks


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

Yeah - I noted that too right away. I looked at some retail fences and saw how they handled it. Instead of having holes run vertically in the fence holding the guard, have them run horizontally on each half of the fence. It looks like most bit guards available also have holes pre-drilled that also run horizontally, so it gives you a few inches of room to open/close your fence to your bit. I'll post a close up once I get the sketch done.


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

The only thing I've ever seen a bit guard do in my 65 years is get in the way.

But here is the most convenient one I've seen. http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/303/routertableupgrades.pdf


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## Back to the Wood (Dec 19, 2009)

Eusibius2 
I just read this on a post in another forum ( http://www.theroutermaniac.com/building-router-table-fences/ ). I hadn't thought about it yet, but it makes sense.
It is important to know that good quality fence extensions are usually 1” thick or more since they have to house the t-track in a dado or groove. If you tried to use ¾” stock, you would have a very weak extension that would not hold up very well in the workshop. Standard t-track is ½” thick , if you were to groove or dado out ¾” stock, that would only leave you ¼” stock left over.

Another post - There are obviously quite a few options out there. I'll still probably build one and then have better clarity as to what features I want or not? My previous fences have consisted of primarily of a 2x4 that has been joined on two sides...Tom 
At $1.60 for 8 feet of 2x4 you can have many fences precisely suited to each task.

If I keep reading as I'm building, I might not make too many mistakes on this first (though probably not the last) router table. 
Bob


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

*Revised the fence...*

Revised fence... much simpler yet incorporates most everything and keeps it basic. 
- Split face, so can now adjust opening for different sized bits. 
- Also can adjust for in & out feed fences with paper shims (or playing cards I heard works really well, too). 
- Bit guard is adjustable on 2 planes, or removable. 
- T-track (incra) for attachments set 2 1/4" up from face of table.
- still has dust port for shop vac in back (fixed)
- attaches to table face using another pair of t-track in table with knob screws...

Let me know your thoughts, good or bad!

Thanks!


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

and here's the fence with the reconfigured table...


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## Back to the Wood (Dec 19, 2009)

It doesn't get any better than this! 

I can't imagine needing anything else.

Maybe some of the old timers will think its overkill, but i feel that it would be easier and more accurate, for me, to be able to set the fence close and "dial it in". 
Like you said, the bit guard can be moved up or down and the fence opening can be narrowed or widened to accomodate the bit that you are using. Its great!

I've seen many remarks about never having too big of a table so I made mine 24" x 48". I have aslo seen comments about needing the room in front of the bit and on the outfeed, so I plan on mounting my router center with 18" of infeed and 30" outfeed and 10" from the back, leaving 14" of front surface. The thought is that I will be on the infeed side supporting the workpiece as it goes in and the table supports the other end as it progresses. I think that the 10" behind the router center will give me enough fence movement and if I am going to rout something that would be farther from the edge, I would do it hand held.

I would appreciate anyone's thoughts about this.

Thanks,
Bob


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## MX5-Speed (Mar 24, 2010)

Just a thought, two layers MDF screwed and glued to each other. Laminate both surfaces.
Why? I see he lives where temperature and humidity change, and the possibility of warpage.
MDF is more stabile than plywood, the laminate on both sides minimize inconsistency and stress due to one surface
with different coefficients of expansion from the opposite. Use screw inserts where you join the table to the stand.

The laminate is much slicker than the plywood top, less drag when using

A nice hardwood around the outer perimeter would look nice


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## Eusibius2 (Jan 6, 2010)

MX5-Speed said:


> Just a thought, two layers MDF screwed and glued to each other. Laminate both surfaces.
> Why? I see he lives where temperature and humidity change, and the possibility of warpage.
> MDF is more stabile than plywood, the laminate on both sides minimize inconsistency and stress due to one surface
> with different coefficients of expansion from the opposite. Use screw inserts where you join the table to the stand.
> ...


While I agree that if one side is going to be laminated, the other side should as well, but in this case I'm not going to be using lam at all. Would look nice to do a perimeter trim though. Might have to think about that. I have some 1x2 in stock, maybe I'll use that! Thanks for the idea!!


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