# How can I keep the red in cedar



## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

I've done a few projects using aromatic red cedar, it starts red with some white sap wood, but always turns brown after a short time.
I'd like to make a cedar chest for each of my daughters, but is there a finish that will keep the red in the wood?


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't believe anything is going to keep it red indefinetly. I would suggest using a product called Sun Block made by Kwick Kleen. It is advertised as a sun screen for wood. It is a pre-finish treatment which should be followed by a UV protective finish which are normally found in exterior marine grade varnishes.


----------



## TaleSspin (Jan 7, 2013)

This is a natural oxidation process of the wood. Take, for example, purple heart. It starts brown but oxidizes to purple. Sealing you cedar can help protect it from air and uv, but eventually it will still fade. Sorry! Often cedar is used unfinished, such as in cedar chests. That's often why if fades so "quickly."


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Yup. Natural oxidation process, even indoors under my carving bench. Over the past 10(?) years of carving local western red cedar, I have split some wood which was the most stunning PINK! color inside the block. In my experience, 30 days and it's gone to an insipid pale yellow. Even a shake block 6" x 8" x 24" that's been outdoors for a decade is brownish-yellow right to the core.
Rocky Mountain Juniper (_Juniperus scopulorum_) goes off even faster. Fresh, I've seen livid purple!

In painting color theory, there isn't much (eg stain) that you could apply to fake the original color. I share your disappointment, big time.


----------



## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help:thumbsup:. Unfortunately, I kind of expected as much. Years ago I was told spar varnish would work, I made T&G paneling for our MB. I only finished the visible side and it turned brown in a few weeks.
Thank you
Rick


----------



## TaleSspin (Jan 7, 2013)

Robson Valley said:


> Rocky Mountain Juniper (_Juniperus scopulorum_) goes off even faster. Fresh, I've seen livid purple!


My grandfather-in-law used to use Rocky Mountain Juniper for all his projects. He fell in love with the wood when he moved to CO just outside Golden. He sourced the wood on their land up at 8400ft. Surprisingly, many of his projects are still bright red after several years (turning brown after 8-10)! His secret was to slop the heck out of it with poly. Granted, it's not the most becoming finishing technique, but I suppose it worked to some extent.


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I had the privilege to meet a home-stead rancher in the Cache Creek region of BC. In his later years, he made a lot of small furniture items, like telephone tables, from RMJ. The ranch is maybe 5k? 6k?

As you said, he slopped on 10x coats of finish to hold the colors. But, in the last 10+ years, I can see it changing, all the same. Inasmuch as I miss the crusty old coot, I'm in there every year for a visit. Better than Hollywood-pretty high country.


----------



## bentwood (Jan 26, 2012)

Rick I suggest building the chests and finish them with what you are most comfortable using. Far too much value is placed on trying to make wood look different to what it natually should. Thousands of cedar chests 75+ years old are used and apreciated for thier natural patina,so will those given to your daughters. Cedar chests are amoung most popular heirlooms and antiques seldom look bright and new. You may find comfort in knowing that if somone desires to restore color when your chests are 50 years old,a card scraper or sandpaper will do it. The color is suprisingly close to the surface of an old grey fence post,and even nearer to the brown of furniture. There are many different trees known as cedar and/or juniper according to region of growth. Native to Ozarks and Eastward is _juniperus virginiana_ which I am refering to. 
The real beauty of wood is that no two pieces are identical so atempts at changing that is often futile at best and counter to best practice at worst.
With that said,there are some who prefer a chest of oak,walnut or other wood,in which case that species is used for chest and cedar is only used to line it.


----------



## Woodington (Jun 14, 2021)

Rick C. said:


> Thanks guys, I appreciate the help:thumbsup:. Unfortunately, I kind of expected as much. Years ago I was told spar varnish would work, I made T&G paneling for our MB. I only finished the visible side and it turned brown in a few weeks.
> Thank you
> Rick


I have made a number of projects using eastern red cedar including multiple cedar chests. In my first attempt I used varnish and had bubbling in a number of locations. I read an article years ago about eastern red cedar and they suggested shellac. I have used clear shellac on all subsequent projects without any issues. The cedar retains its color perfectly and the shellac is easy to apply for a smooth, even finish. I hope this helps.


----------

