# W table



## hofmann (Nov 15, 2009)

I have been asked by a client to build a dining table that is somewhat outside my normal field as a traditional cabinetmaker. She is after a glass top table with a w effect in the timber base. i intend to use 600mm wide laminated oak at each end as the legs. These will be vertical. From the base of these will extend another two 600mm oak panels at, say, 40 deg to meet at the middle and create a central support for the glass. The glass will not be part of the structure therefore my three joints need to be solid and thererin lies my question. Any suggestions on these joints?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

hofmann said:


> I have been asked by a client to build a dining table that is somewhat outside my normal field as a traditional cabinetmaker. She is after a glass top table with a w effect in the timber base. i intend to use 600mm wide laminated oak at each end as the legs. These will be vertical. From the base of these will extend another two 600mm oak panels at, say, 40 deg to meet at the middle and create a central support for the glass. The glass will not be part of the structure therefore my three joints need to be solid and thererin lies my question. Any suggestions on these joints?



*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

You have quite a project there. Sounds simple, but there aren't many choices. You didn't say the thickness or the height of the pieces, or the size and thickness of the glass, or, how the table will be used.

Anyway, I would orient the grain direction to be vertical for a table shaped like a *W* (looking at an end view). I would draw out the table in an end view to full size scale, showing the *W*. I would consider using a thickness like 8/4, just for the mass and additional gluing surface. Having the drawing will permit you to fit the cut pieces to it and see the fit.

You should consider that the joinery will be basically a butt type but could be fortified with a lock miter bit. You would have to practice with shim heights to have the mating patterns line up at a lesser angle than a 45 degree. This could be one solution, but not one I'd bet my retirement on.

Or, more simply, cut the angles for the bottom joints and machine for good size splines, like maybe 3/8". Those splines would be in a grain direction perpendicular to the wood, not long grain. On your drawing space them to get two for each joint. The one at the top of the joint will be wider than the one near the floor. Glue and clamp. Allow an overnight clamping for the glue to cure.

Using vertical grain on the *W* will prevent the bottom tip of the joint breaking along the grain line.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The glass is NOT part of the structure?*



hofmann said:


> I have been asked by a client to build a dining table that is somewhat outside my normal field as a traditional cabinetmaker. She is after a glass top table with a w effect in the timber base. i intend to use 600mm wide laminated oak at each end as the legs. These will be vertical. From the base of these will extend another two 600mm oak panels at, say, 40 deg to meet at the middle and create a central support for the glass. *The glass will not be part of the structure* therefore my three joints need to be solid and there in lies my question. Any suggestions on these joints?


 If the glass is not secured to the legs, what keeps the whole thing from collapsing like a empty box? It will just fold/fall over. Trestle tables have a center cross beam to tie the legs together. Other tables have an apron under the top for structure. What will you do? :blink: bill
Unless we are misunderstanding your design and there is a center brace and the "W" is in the side view rather than the ends? A sketch or additional explanation is needed.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

Not enough information.
When you say "laminated panel" are you refering to a laminated sheet like plywood or more than one laminated sheet or laminated glue up of solid wood?


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

Something like this? Is your clients name Laura?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Great job on the sketch up*

That's what I was wondering from his description it was hard to tell, but your image is great! And if that's not what he had in mind I would advise him to change it to this! :yes: bill
BTW who's Laura?:blink:


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

> who's Laura?:blink:


W's WIFE!


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## hofmann (Nov 15, 2009)

Time to own up. My father in law is the cabinetmaker and I am merely his conduit. He has an aversion to the interweb thingy and I am trying to show him the way. This is a genuine job he asked me about about but as a house builder I didn't have the foggiest. He's sitting beside me and he's as impressed with your drawings as I am mics. You nailed it and answered some of the previous questions I believe. We were imagining the laminations to be in the order of three pices of 8x2 for each panel but we both agree that your design makes far more sense. I assume you meant Lara, as in Lara Croft. He had a couple of other ideas but we're not even going to post them because none are as elegant as yours. The dimensions and so forth are still to be worked out with the client but its intended purpose is a dining table so as mic drew, I will need about 1ft overhangs all round. The glass of course will be clear so everyone can see the base so the remaining question is how to fix the glass while giving it the appearance of just sitting there. For obvious reasons, the top needs to be removable.


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## hofmann (Nov 15, 2009)

How do I print off mics pics?Sorry mic, I realise you did mean Laura.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Printing the sketchup drawings*

One way is to download the sketchup program, it's free.
Another way is to left click the lower right hand corner of the image and hold and scroll up to select the image. Then release and right click and choose "copy" or "save image as". Then choose "print" and in the printer window choose "print selection". If you saved the image in "my pictures" or a file you can print from there. 

BTW if you make the support as drawn, it will weigh a ton. Consider removing every other strut/ laminate to visually and physically lighten the table. The depth or thickness of the laminates need not be more that 1 1/2" or so and it will be very strong, in my opinion, because of the interlocking construction. You also mention the legs being "vertical" mics sketch shows them inclined, a better design, in my opinion.
:thumbsup: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

hofmann said:


> The glass of course will be clear so everyone can see the base so the remaining question is how to fix the glass while giving it the appearance of just sitting there. For obvious reasons, the top needs to be removable.



Your local glass shop should have the anti-skid clear flexible plastic discs. They are about the diameter of a nickel, about 1/16" thick, and will keep the glass from sliding around.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

The "legs" on the previous image are vertical. 
There is 5.67 cubic feet of wood building this from 2"x3" stock..which is how it's shown. So around 200 pounds would be my guess.
The overall dimensions were 2'W x 4'L x 32"H 
The glass is 4'x6' (one foot overhang)
As you can see in the image there are merely two patterns (if you make it this way) created so as to lap all the joints.

oh..and I was refering to Mrs G. "W" Bush... Laura

And I could see how building the base supports in the four units shown and lagging them together for assembly in about 9 places would work.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Vertical in your last image*

But not in the first, as they are NOT parallel with the edge of the border as they are in the last one. Small point however. "Ws" seldom have vertical legs anyway and inclined will look better. JMO :yes: bill


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

They were and are vertical. Your spacial visual recognition aquity is just a little off.:laughing: I can send you the .skp or a 3D pdf file if you need to make sure I did it right.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I am a MFA in Industrial Design*

There is nothing wrong with my visual acquity. I have been drawing in perspective for about 55 yrs. The legs in the 1st image are not parallel to the edge of the border, which would indicate vertical as in the 2nd image. If you drop a vertical from the table top intersection in the first image you will see what I'm saying. You may have created them vertical, but the 1st image does not show/indicate that as does the 2nd image. It's not that I don't believe you at all! It's just how it appears.
So, That's all I'm gonna say on this. bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> So That's all I gonna say on this. bill



What a let down. Just when I made popcorn.:laughing:


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

The latter image was in parallel projection mode which is more for orthographic views and plan dimensioning. But it looks strange when viewed as 3D
The former was in perspective mode which looks more appealing to the eye as it represents more realistic image as percieved by the human eye.
Two views..same image.


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## hofmann (Nov 15, 2009)

You guys make me laugh. Thanks heaps for all the help. I've told my father in law the rules so if he gets the job, photos will be posted. There's probably not much point getting all the details sorted till they have been sorted with the clients. I'll leave you boys to argue about visual acquity. To be fair, we actually argued about whether they were straight or not too. Neil reckons it might be better with the ends at an angle anyway.


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