# Cutting strips for kayak



## asbjorn (Aug 30, 2020)

I am making a strip built kayak and need to cut strips 5 mm thick from a long board of pine. I don´t have a table saw and am going to use a circular saw. Are there any jigs (or has anyone made a jig) that will let med do even cuts this thin easily? Needs to have the guide on the outside of the board since I am cutting the whole board into strips and the width of the board will change every time I cut a strip


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

asbjorn said:


> I am making a strip built kayak and need to cut strips 5 mm thick from a long board of pine. I don´t have a table saw and am going to use a circular saw. Are there any jigs (or has anyone made a jig) that will let med do even cuts this thin easily? Needs to have the guide on the outside of the board since I am cutting the whole board into strips and the width of the board will change every time I cut a strip


I would recommend you look into buying a small bandsaw. A small bandsaw should be adequate for this project, without breaking the budget.
SKIL 3386-01 120-Volt 9-Inch Band Saw with Light is $165.00 on Amazon. (just as an example)


I can see no safe or accurate way to do what you are proposing, using a hand held circular saw. JMHO


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I would not use a band saw. You need to find a small tablesaw with a fence that moves forward or backwards ..

Because its for a kayak doesn't mean it has to be a kayak process...


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Rebelwork said:


> I would not use a band saw. You need to find a small tablesaw with a fence that moves forward or backwards ...


Why would you not use a bandsaw? Most builders of strip canoes and kayaks use a bandsaw for this specific task. The bandsaw will yield more strips per board and there is absolutely no danger of kickback. Yes a fence is used on the bandsaw to control the width of the strips. Once set for the desired width, it is left there and all strips can be cut without further adjustment.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Then go for it... I have cut thin strips for years. Bandsaw not my choice..especially not a cheap one...


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Rebelwork said:


> Then go for it... I have cut thin strips for years. Bandsaw not my choice..especially not a cheap one...


Thanks for sharing your reasons? I provided two reasons for using a bandsaw. I would assume you have reasons for the choice you have made? I wasn't insulting your expertise, just asking why not use a bandsaw.


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## asbjorn (Aug 30, 2020)

I have a band saw. No way I can get straight strips (and did I mention about 13 - 16 feet long) and about 6- 70 of them on a band saw.

My choice of tool is the circular saw. I have read articles where the builders say that is it much easier running a saw along the board that long rather than pushing the board through a table saw (unless of course you have an automatic feeder). I just need to find a jig. That was the question (that no one answered)


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

If you want help building a canoe/kayak then you should join a canoe/kayak forum. I’m a member of a canoe tripping forum and there are many talented builders on the site. I don’t have space to build a canoe so I don’t pay attention, but I believe one of the preferred way to cut the strips is with a skill type saw. They have techniques for doing so in a controlled manner.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Kayak or no kayak it's still the process. You need to go find a 1x12 x? As long as you can get as straight as you can get. I tend to use ash or maple. But anything including pine will work. Widthe reflects stiffness. Too narrow and it will flex with the pressure fron the skill saw. Unless you want to use a clamp in the middle..


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## asbjorn (Aug 30, 2020)

Rebelwork said:


> Kayak or no kayak it's still the process. You need to go find a 1x12 x? As long as you can get as straight as you can get. I tend to use ash or maple. But anything including pine will work. Widthe reflects stiffness. Too narrow and it will flex with the pressure fron the skill saw. Unless you want to use a clamp in the middle..


Plan is to sqrew/clamp the long board so it doesn´t move and run the circular saw along it cutting 5 mm (about 1/4 inch) strips. I just need to fint a good jig I can run the saw along. That was my question


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## asbjorn (Aug 30, 2020)

Terry Q said:


> If you want help building a canoe/kayak then you should join a canoe/kayak forum. I’m a member of a canoe tripping forum and there are many talented builders on the site. I don’t have space to build a canoe so I don’t pay attention, but I believe one of the preferred way to cut the strips is with a skill type saw. They have techniques for doing so in a controlled manner.


Thank you. So skil type saw is not the same as circular saw?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*This jig is adjustable .......*



asbjorn said:


> Plan is to sqrew/clamp the long board so it doesn´t move and run the circular saw along it cutting 5 mm (about 1/4 inch) strips. I just need to find a good jig I can run the saw along. That was my question


 Make a long ripping fence for your circular saw:


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## aclawrence (May 25, 2020)

If there’s any way possible to get a table saw that would be my vote. If I was going to be cutting a hundred of those thin strips I would set up a table saw with a thin kerf blade and go to town. Or I would get someone to mill the lumber. I think it would be a pain trying to do the build with less than perfect pieces. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A 16 ft long board requires 36 ft of run .....*



asbjorn said:


> I have a band saw. No way I can get straight strips (and did I mention about 13 - 16 feet long) and about 6- 70 of them on a band saw.
> 
> My choice of tool is the circular saw. I have read articles where the builders say that is it much easier running a saw along the board that long rather than pushing the board through a table saw (unless of course you have an automatic feeder). I just need to find a jig. That was the question (that no one answered)



To rip 16 ft long boards you need about 36 ft of run on a table saw from start to finish. To rip them with a circular saw you only need about 18 ft of run and a long extension cord .... :|


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

If you can setup your circular/skill saw so that there is a fixed guide on both sides of the shoe, than that might work. I cannot imagine getting a straight cut with only one guide.


George


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

I totally agree that a bandsaw is the best tool for this. But you need a good bandsaw, accurately aligned and a good blade. A jointer is necessary to re-joint the edges every now and then.

What you’re going to find is little errors multiply if you don’t have a good setup.

But if you’re determined to use a circular saw and can devise someway to accurately do this, then all I can say is good luck, stay safe, and have at it!


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

The bandsaw requires some investment. I have a powermatic with a woodslicer blade and it's never been out of the package. Even I would rather use a skill saw and a jig than attempt those long boards on a bandsaw...I've cut 4" hickory on mine and it's work...when I cut backs for adirondack chairs it still requires me to run accross the straight edge...


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## asbjorn (Aug 30, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> Make a long ripping fence for your circular saw:
> Cutting Straight Lines with a Circular Saw - Making a Circular Saw Fence - YouTube


Finally an actual answer to the question. Thanks


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

deleted. took too long to answer.


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

asbjorn said:


> Thank you. So skil type saw is not the same as circular saw?



It is, just didn’t remember what term you used in the original post


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Rebelwork said:


> The bandsaw requires some investment. I have a powermatic with a woodslicer blade and it's never been out of the package. Even I would rather use a skill saw and a jig than attempt those long boards on a bandsaw...I've cut 4" hickory on mine and it's work...when I cut backs for adirondack chairs it still requires me to run accross the straight edge...


I see your point. I forgot how long the boards are. ;-)

Watched the video. The fence is on the wrong side of the blade. Do you see the wobble? That will come back to bite you.


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## ducbsa (Jul 6, 2014)

DrRobert said:


> The fence is on the wrong side of the blade. Do you see the wobble? That will come back to bite you.



Yes, better to have the wider part of the baseplate on the work, even if it makes the top blocks' kerfs more complicated.


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## asbjorn (Aug 30, 2020)

DrRobert said:


> I see your point. I forgot how long the boards are. ;-)
> 
> Watched the video. The fence is on the wrong side of the blade. Do you see the wobble? That will come back to bite you.


Forgive me as I am a novice woodworker. But in my head the fence needs to be on the outside og the blade (and the outside of the board) since the width of the board decreases as I am cutting the strips. I need to measure from the outside, don´t I? (5 mm from the fence to the blade).


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If you are going to use the circular saw I would suggest something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2685-Circular-Saw-Guide/dp/B073PFYN4T


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## cynrich (Mar 27, 2020)

BigJim said:


> If you are going to use the circular saw I would suggest something like this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2685-Circular-Saw-Guide/dp/B073PFYN4T



Thanks BigJim for posting this link! It's exactly what I have been imagining for cutting all the 3" strips I need for my windows! I put it in my Amazon inbox for the next order I make!


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

one way to use a circular saw would to use a guide. it will need to be as long as your longest cut, plus a foot or two. it can be 1/4 - 1/2 plywood, about 12" wide. measure form the inside edge of the saw's foot, to the blade. add 1/8". take that measurement and measure in from one edge of the plywood strip. you can use a chalk line to snap a straight line. attach a cleat (1/2" x 2") on that line.

do this next: note that the first cut will remove that 1/8" overhang which was added earlier. 

you attach the guide to your stock, and you will guide your saw along that (hopefully) straight cleat. this "straight line rip jig" is now cutomized to that saw, and will cut wherever you put that edge.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*No guide will be 16 ft long .....^*

:sad2:That's the length of the OP's longest boards, so not practical. 

More practical is to attach a 18" long shoe to the saw base at the desired thickness from the blade OR have it adjustable within a small range, say 1/8" to 3/4" for this project. Obviously it must be parallel to the blade, no big deal, but requires some precise alignment. I think the video shows all this, but I didn't watch it all.....?


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

are you saying i (or anyone) can not make a 16' (plus a foot or two as mentioned) straight riip guide?

if he is insisting on using a circular saw, this would be one way to do it, among others...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*No, I'm not say that ....*



TimPa said:


> are you saying i (or anyone) can not make a 16' (plus a foot or two as mentioned) straight riip guide?
> 
> if he is insisting on using a circular saw, this would be one way to do it, among others...



Here's what I said:
:sad2:That's the length of the OP's longest boards,* so not practical*. 

Even if you can get it straight to avoid deflection in the center, it would either need to be accurately measured and clamped/nailed or stiff/wide enough to not deflect. To me this just isn't very practical, when I could fence off the base of my circular saw and literally "zip" down the length of the boards as fast as the saw would cut accurately. Yes, it would require a slight force in towards the board as you cut to maintain registration to the fence just like on the table saw. It would be my preferred way to do this using a cicular saw.
I have done my share of "measure twice, check twice, cut once" rips including on 14 ft long White Oak:
 




After trying several alternative guides and saws, I settled on this combination. I had a 10 ft X 3" piece of 3/8" plywood as the guide and my trusty PC 6 1/2" circular saw. White Oak even at 3/4" thick is tough stuff to rip, but a slow and even feed pressure worked. I did have to move the guide board which I screw right onto the plank one time per cut to make a complete pass:


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I think a guide fastened 1/4" from the outboard side of the blade would do the trick. -But- The problem I see is that once you've cut several strips, the part of the board that the shoe of the saw is riding on will get so narrow that it won't be able to provide enough support to keep the cuts square.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*No problem .....*



Quickstep said:


> I think a guide fastened 1/4" from the outboard side of the blade would do the trick. -But- The problem I see is that once you've cut several strips, the part of the board that the shoe of the saw is riding on will get so narrow that it won't be able to provide enough support to keep the cuts square.



Just place another equal thickness board side by side to it. Then it becomes the next board to get resawn and so forth until you run out of boards. You will always need one extra board for this method to work.
:wink:


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

You can cut the strips with a hand held circular saw. 
Bolt the saw to a piece of plywood . Bolt 4 corners if possible. Make a saw cut thru the plywood the full depth of the blade. Turn the plywood upside down and place it between two horses. Set the blade depth for 3/4" depth of cut .
Install a straight edge 1/4" from the set of the teeth. Make sure the straight edge is parallel with the blade. 
You need to have a way to start and shut off the saw. The trigger is blocked in the on position with a tapered block of wood. Get a receptacle with a switch and fasten it to the table so you can easily reach it. 
I used a switch like this that had a 6'-0" wire and plug already on it. Came off a Craftsmen contractors saw.
Make a push stick and your ready to cut. Install a 24 TPI or less thin kerf blade.
mike


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

kwoodhands said:


> You can cut the strips with a hand held circular saw.
> Bolt the saw to a piece of plywood . Bolt 4 corners if possible. Make a saw cut thru the plywood the full depth of the blade. Turn the plywood upside down and place it between two horses. Set the blade depth for 3/4" depth of cut .
> Install a straight edge 1/4" from the set of the teeth. Make sure the straight edge is parallel with the blade.
> You need to have a way to start and shut off the saw. The trigger is blocked in the on position with a tapered block of wood. Get a receptacle with a switch and fasten it to the table so you can easily reach it.
> ...


I like THIS ^^^

My first table saw about 40 years ago!!


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## flubberchutney (Sep 4, 2020)

I am going to suggest something that will likely make many people on this forum scream. I suggest flipping the circular saw upside down and mounting it with screws to bottom of a board. plunge cut through the board from the bottom to get a zero clearance cut next to the blade. set up a fence at the desired distance from the blade, and run your pieces against the fence. Make sure your blade height just clears the thickness of your board for safety reasons. 

I built a cedar strip Adirondack Guideboat about 20 years ago. In my experience, cutting the pieces on a table saw and then running them through a planer was the best option. We then took the strips and ran them through a router jig to make a bead on one side, and a cove on the other side to allow for the curves we wanted to accommodate. 

Just a suggestion. 

Jeff
P.S. I forgot the password for my usual login, and had to create another account to post this. (GRRRR!) My other user name is Skakid73 and there is more info about me there.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Read the post just above yours ^*



kwoodhands said:


> You can cut the strips with a hand held circular saw.
> Bolt the saw to a piece of plywood . Bolt 4 corners if possible. Make *a saw cut thru the plywood the full depth of the blade. Turn the plywood upside down and place it between two horses*. Set the blade depth for 3/4" depth of cut .
> Install a straight edge 1/4" from the set of the teeth. Make sure the straight edge is parallel with the blade.
> You need to have a way to start and shut off the saw. The trigger is blocked in the on position with a tapered block of wood. Get a receptacle with a switch and fasten it to the table so you can easily reach it.
> ...





flubberchutney said:


> I am going to suggest something that will likely make many people on this forum scream.* I suggest flipping the circular saw upside down and mounting it with screws to bottom of a board.* plunge cut through the board from the bottom to get a zero clearance cut next to the blade. set up a fence at the desired distance from the blade, and run your pieces against the fence. Make sure your blade height just clears the thickness of your board for safety reasons.
> 
> I built a cedar strip Adirondack Guideboat about 20 years ago. In my experience, cutting the pieces on a table saw and then running them through a planer was the best option. We then took the strips and ran them through a router jig to make a bead on one side, and a cove on the other side to allow for the curves we wanted to accommodate.
> 
> ...



These ideas are essentially the same. :surprise2:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Pretty simple process surprised it takes this much thinking...


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