# Repair table drawer



## Kimball House (Oct 9, 2016)

I built this hall table 10 or 15 years ago. The drawer divider and kicker have separated from the table carcase, specifically the frame against the drawer stops. The frame - divider - kicker joint looks to be merely glued (error). Not reinforced with a spline or biscuit. This causes the drawers to sag.

I cannot remove the top of the table. It is veneered ply and was not fastened with clips to the frame. I must have glued it (error). So not possible to access from the top.

Best idea I have is to reapply glue and sink a angled screw on the front edge of the drawer divider up to contact the frame - kicker. Perhaps the smallest Kreg screw. Then plug the hole. Front edge of drawer divider is not visible when the drawers are closed.

I could place a screw straight through the front of the frame into the end grain of the kicker, but that doesn't seem great. I suppose I could put a couple of pin nails across this joint using a nail gun.

Any other ideas are appreciated.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Put a pry bar between the top and the divider and the top and pry it down enough you can put some two part epoxy on the end of the rail and on top of the divider. If the top is made out of plywood and not solid wood you could also put epoxy between the top rail and the top. Then put something soft on the top of the table such as foam or a furniture blanket to protect the finish on the top and lay a scrap piece of plywood on top of the top. Then you can clamp the parts together and allow it to dry. This should be enough however if you want to make sure you have it you might drill a hole and put a nail through the front into the top rail.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Here's what I would do....*

Remove both drawers first. 
Turn the desk upside down on a blanket or cloth to avoid scratching it.
Drive a small wedge into the front edge of the drawer divided to open it up.
Fill the gap with epoxy, not glue since glue doesn;t stick to itself after it cures.
Place books or other weights so it pushes the gap between the divider closed. 
Leave it overnight.


The reason for inverting it is you won't be able to clamp it all along the dividers length enough to close the gap properly. Most of the clamping pressure would be concentrated right under the clamp at the front.
Having said that, .... a clamp right at the front certainly would help along with the weights. IF... you can get to the back of the divider and place another clamp at the rear, that would be best.

If you can work quickly with a small brush and get the epoxy into the gap all along, then you could use the 5 minute, type. BUT if anything goes wrong, then you are SOL. For security sake it may be best to use a slow cure epoxy... :wink2:


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