# Operation Mission Coffee Table Build...



## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

...is in effect. This thread was started back in February 2013, but I had to put the project on hold due to wet wood. I am now back at it. New posts being added as I progress. So check it out.

Today, after too long of a hiatus, I have begun building my first real piece of Mission Style furniture. It is a coffee table. One of the main reasons I wanted to get into wood working, as a hobby was to build Arts & Crafts style furniture, for my home and who knows if I get good. I have been looking at photos of mission coffee tables for months now, trying to figure out what I like. I found a couple of images, but no plans for what I wanted. So today I fired up Google Sketch-up, which I am far from good at, and came up with something. It is based on some other images I have seen, so thank you to the craftsman that blazed the trail.

These are just jumping off plans to get me cutting wood. I may add some breadboard ends and some corbels. Maybe some through tenons. Overall size is 46"long x 24" wide x 18-3/8" high. The aprons are 4.5 high. Two outside drawers are 12" wide by 3" high and the middle is 9" wide by 3" high. The legs are 2" square and 17.5" high. The top is 7/8" thick or as thick as I can keep my 4/4 rough oak. The slats are 8.5" high (not counting tenons) x 1.25" wide x 1/2" thick. The bottom stretcher is 2" high.

So please follow along, add comments and suggestions. If you followed my A Gem of A Jewelry Box build, you know I post lots of images, details and questions along the way. My wife loved the box, by the way.

After design, I went to the shop to look at some of the QSWO I have on hand. I got a great deal at $2 a BF for it. I have worked with rough lumber before, from a dealer, but this is right from a sawyer and super rough, with bark, knots, curves, bends and what not. Very hard to pick the best grain, rays and fleck. 

I found a board that I thought had potential and started milling. This is going to take me a while. I am still learning to read grain and this stuff like to tear our big time. The boards are also 4/4 some a tiny bit bigger and some a tiny bit smaller. It may be tough for me to get my 7/8 top I was planning, definitely 3/4+ though.

So enjoy.


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Ok I'm in! Those rays are really going to pop! How do you plan on finishing that QSWO?


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Paul, think about balancing the width of the drawers. Looks a little off with the narrower one in the middle, but that could just be me.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I will think about it Sawdust. The one I am modeling it after had a small one in the middle, it can be seen here. Another I really liked had a large one, with two small ones on each side and can be seen here. The way the wood milling is going I got a feeling I will have some time before I get to the drawers.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Its is funny, a couple weeks ago I was talking about my wood working funk, and now I can't wait to get back in the shop. I worked milling wood until about 10 PM down there before calling it quits. My basement wood shop is shared space with my brothers bedroom. He has walls and a door, he is not sleeping on the work bench, but I decided I would let him rest. My house, but I let him live here. What can I say, I like him and he needs a place to stay.

Crusader, I have not chosen how I will finish the table. I hate the finishing process and I am a novice at it even more than the building process. I would love to try old school Ammonia fuming. I am open all suggestions and please make them detailed.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Ok, the actual table looks good. I think it was a sketch up illusion.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Milled some more rough lumber today, looking for some nice thick pieces for the top. Turns out I still have not found it in my pile. Was going to use today's milled pieces for the side aprons, but somehow jumped into making the legs. I hope the grain, ray and flecks looks good when done. I had to cut spacers to fill out the leg dimension to two inches. I though I could get away with just gluing two boards together, but no, I was thinking wrong. I realized again today that I am the worst wood gluer in the world. I tried a new silicone glue brush from Woodcraft and it seemed to stick in the glue and was hard to spread.

Originally I was going to try all four legs in one set of clamps, like in the books I have read, but my sorry glue skills had me go with one leg in each set of clamps. I still have two more legs to do. I just hope the are semi square still. I am waiting for the glue to dry.

Wish me luck.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

All right Paul, just a tip or two to help with your glue ups. Get yourself a bucket of water and some rags (cut up old t-shirts). Put enough glue on to lightly but completely cover each mating surface. Apply just enough clamp pressure to close your joint and you should get just a small amount of squeeze out. Wipe off the glue from the side the clamps aren't on, apply a few clamps from that side, remove the others and clean the squeeze out from that side, then re-apply the clamps. Hope this helps.


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## DWalls11 (Nov 1, 2011)

sawdustfactory said:


> All right Paul, just a tip or two to help with your glue ups. Get yourself a bucket of water and some rags (cut up old t-shirts). Put enough glue on to lightly but completely cover each mating surface. Apply just enough clamp pressure to close your joint and you should get just a small amount of squeeze out. Wipe off the glue from the side the clamps aren't on, apply a few clamps from that side, remove the others and clean the squeeze out from that side, then re-apply the clamps. Hope this helps.


I think what you are trying to address is the prevention of marks left by clamps which is a great tip. I hate to discredit your method of glue clean up but wiping glue off with a damp rag is a bad practice. The glue gets pushes into the pours (especially with an open poured wood like oak) and creates lighter patches even after its been sanded which will give you headaches when it comes to finishing. A better method is to wait until the glue is almost a rubbery or gelatine consistency and clean it off with a sharp chisel or paint scraper.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I have seen glue clean up from both camps and am still forming my opinion. I have been going the wait a bit and scrap off route with one of those triangle scrapers. I will admit that I either put on too much glue or not enough. Today is a too much day. The first two legs actually cleaned up pretty well. Plus these first seems are being covered with veneer. It is a learning experience and I am having fun, frustrating fun, but fun. It is funny I feel more tire after working all day in the shop, as a hobby, than most days at my job as a newspaper photographer. I have one more leg in clamps and another waiting.

In the mean time I am prepping more rough lumber in hopes of finding my table top. I bought 100 BF of QSWO at 2$ BF from a local guy and while it is most likely a good deal, I am dealing with a lot of defects and waste. I may not have a good selection that nets out to 7/8" for my top. Sometimes it might pay, to pay a bit more and get better, graded wood. I still think I will be ahead in this deal, the local dealer wants 7$ BF for QSWO.


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## caliwoodmastergv (Feb 24, 2013)

I size my glue up parts big by a 16th then surface on a jointer. I agree with letting the glue set up a bit and going after it with a sharp chisel. 

If your getting your qswo for 2 bucks a board foot then waste is gonna happen buy extra. That's cheap. Gotta love medullary ray fleck pattern. Hehe


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

*Sorry for the mini hijack*



> I hate to discredit your method of glue clean up but wiping glue off with a damp rag is a bad practice.


 I've been doing this for years and have enver had a problem. Like caliwood, I usually leave parts just a hair large and plane to final dimension. I also rarely ever use open grain woods like oak. I aim for minimal squeeze out and go over the area 2-3 times with fresh rags and don't have residue problems, especially after planing.

Now back to your regularly scheduled thread.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

What has four legs, two bottom side stretchers and two side aprons? Paul's coffee table. Legs still need veneer on two side. Not to mention mortise and tenons on all.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

You may have had to sift through some blemished wood, bit you milled some clean, pretty stock. Keep up the good work!

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks Phaedrus, I just hope I find enough nice looking big pieces for the top and the shelf. I didn't want to use the whole 100BF for this one table, but I guess that may be the price paid for 2$ BF QSWO. I hope I don't have to buy some better grade stuff at the dealer for the top and shelf.

Do you guys think this coffee table top could be 3/4", instead of 7/8" I was planning, if I can't mill what I have without going under 7/8"? I like a thicker top, but 3/4" might still be thick enough to be pleasing to me.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

3/4 will be fine. Don't worry about super wood for the shelf, you know it's gonna be covered mist of the time. Mine is ;-)


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Paul, I've been in the same boat before and believe me only someone with a trained eye is going to notice an 1/8" and even then there's nothing wrong with a 3/4" top on such a small table.

On a side note, I'm sitting here all fifty shades of green with jealousy. $2 a BF!! sheesh..I would give my left ___ well anyway
enough of what I would give.

Looking great so far!


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

3/4 will be fine for the top. You could also thicken the edge with however thick a piece you want. The cherry tabletop I made is 3/4 except for the very edge where I glued on to make it appear 1 1/2 inch thick, and then cut it into a circle. Unless someone bends over and looks, they will never know.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Argh, the horror of going down to the shop today, to do laundry, and see a couple of my freshly milled boards cupping slightly. One of them in the finished size pile. The other is not at final size yet, but I think I did mill it to 3/4.

This was to be a side top apron. I guess I could flatten it again with the jointer/planer, but then I guess I will have to do all the other side pieces to match. I think it would take minimal planning to get it flat again.









This one has no specific use yet, but I think is milled to 3/4". Maybe I could use it for the 1/2" thick slats.









When I bought this wood the sawyer showed me it was 7% with his meter, just out of his kiln. That was an outside measurement. The wood has been sitting in my basement for over a month now and I though it would be dry enough to work. I think I may have to get it cleaned/milled up as thick as I can and then let it sit some more before final milling.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I wonder if the cupping is because the wood was sitting on flat surfaces, unstickered? Seems like it cupped to the up facing side. This could be because of uneven moisture drying. Wonder if I sticker the wood, if it will go back to the way it was?


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I am just a beginner, basically, working with real wood. I have done a ton of projects with plywood, and engineered products. That being said, it was always explained to me to "rough mill" your wood to close to your final dimensions, and then let them sit at a minimum, overnight. After they have acclimated again to your shop, then mill them to the final dimension. I realize this may be too late for your current project, but something to think about for future ones.

I also am jealous as all get out at the price you got for you QSWO. I remember when you posted that, and still can't believe you got that price. 

Your project is coming along nicely, though, Paul. Keep up the good work, and I will enjoy learning while you learn too.

Thanks for taking the time to include us in on this project as well.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

My second horror of the day is when I picked up the boards to put stickers between them and saw just how wet they must still be. Crazy red rust on my newly cleaned TS.


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## caliwoodmastergv (Feb 24, 2013)

Hence 2$ bf. sorry bud


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Paul, the moisture in the boards caused the rust. Looks like they weren't 7% and unless your basement is very humid they shouldn't pick up enough to rust the TS. As Fabian said, you mill a bit large then to final size after they have had time to acclimate. However, given the rust I think it would be worth getting a moisture meter before proceeding.

EDIT: I'll add that I'm sure many of us have had the exact same thing happen and no longer stack wood on our iron. ;-)


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Lessons learned Shop Dad, et all. I will pick up a moisture meter shortly. Any recommendations that don't break the bank? And I will still think kindly on my 2$ QSWO. The alternative was 7$ at the local hardwood retailer.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Lowes has one that is cheap and will get you in the ballpark.


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## ArmedFerret (Aug 24, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> The alternative was 7$ at the local hardwood retailer.



That the place in Annapolis?


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Lessons learned Shop Dad, et all. I will pick up a moisture meter shortly. Any recommendations that don't break the bank? And I will still think kindly on my 2$ QSWO. The alternative was 7$ at the local hardwood retailer.


Yep... that is still a steal of a deal... You just have to let them dry properly.... 2$ per bf usually means they aren't ready for working, unless you are Roy Underhill. :laughing: Unfortunately, if they aren't 7%, then the project will have to be put on hold till they dry, or you kiln dry the wood. Darren has plans in the classifieds area on how you could make your own kiln.

Man, I feel your pain with the rust on the saw. I sort of have the same issue with my iron surfaces, but mine is because of my son, who has some special needs. He tends to drool alot, so its hard to keep track of that when he is in the shop with me. I keep a very watchful eye, but sometimes I miss something, and find it the next morning. As Shopdad said, Now you know not to stack any wood on your iron surfaces in the future.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

As for the rust on your TS, it might be a good idea to wax (or rewax) the cast iron top. I just use automotive carnuba wax and have had excellent luck. It also makes the surface and miter slots extra smooth!

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

After seeing how the jewelry box turned out, I will enjoy watching this! Thanks for posting Paul.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Yes AF, it is the place in Annapolis that was 7$BF. Ben I will hit the top with mineral spirits and a scotchbrite and then some Johnsons Paste Wax, that is what I have been using. I have read you have to watch out for auto wax because it may have silicone in it which can affect the finishing process. I am going to pick up a moisture meter today and see where I stand with the wood. I am hoping it is not too wet. I cannot build a kiln, no space, so it will just have to dry on its own.


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

hi paul. you could sticker the wood under a tarp and run a dehumidifier for a couple weeks and it should dry. I just recently dried about 150 bf of cherry from 14% down to 7% in 3 weeks using this method. as for the rust on the table saw first treat it with a rust inhibitor then wipe it off. you can apply a thin coat of oil to protect it but dry it off with paper towel.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*"table" saw*

There are many times when I need to use my table saw as a "table". I have come up with different solutions from a 3/4" plywood top to a large piece of clean, dry cardboard. I have had the same rust issue when working with green wood and it totally shocked me. It even happened with a piece of Pressure Treated wood. So be aware of casually setting down a piece of of wood of unknown origin. :yes:


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Well I bought a HF moisture meter for 11 bucks today and while I wouldn't bet on its accuracy, I think is it probably in the ball park. I got readings of 10-14% on different boards in my QSWO pile. I tried it on some 10+ year old 2" thick cherry slabs I have and it didn't read over 00%. Maybe that wood is below the range of the meter. Some other older wood around the shop gave me 00% too. A two by four read around 8% that had been in the shop for years.

Looks like Operation Coffee Table may be on hold for a while. Too bad to, I was having fun building it. I kind of knew I was going to have a problem when I first started milling it and it felt a little wet. I may try the tarp and dehumidifier, got to get one first. Maybe I will also go look and see what the hardwood dealer has, not that I can buy too much @ 7$ BF. Building full size kiln is out. I have no outside electric and no real space for one. Might be working on shop storage and jigs for awhile. I do want a cross cut sled.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Oh, I feel your pain, Paul. There have been many times that I have had a project put on hold, because I was waiting for parts, waiting for a finish to dry, or what not. Like you said, take this time to build some stuff (jigs) that you might anticipate needing for this project. That tablesaw sled would a great addition, and will take some time to get it dialed in. Other ideas are good push blocks if you don't have them. I recently was shot at by my TS because I was using crappy push sticks.

I really like that idea of the tarp and dehumidifier to make a "mini-kiln" That is essentially what Darrens kiln is, but on a much larger scale, I think.

I can't wait to see what you end up doing in the meantime.

As woodnthings pointed out too, you do have to be careful with woods of unknown origin. I have left sawdust from treated boards on my TS, and that ended up leaving some stains.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

All right, lets have another go at this. The 4/4 QSWO I bought last year and started building the table with, but was too wet then, should be dry. I also scored some 7/4 White Oak, most quarter sawn, after some cutting out the pith, for about around $1.40 BF. That story is here Sure the waste will drive up that price, but its still cheap. There are some weird cracks in the middle, probably stress related, but it works for $86 total.

Anyway, today I cut the rough edges and pith's out of that 7/4 and it felt good to get back in the shop. Here are some images. I may wind up changing the design of the table, not sure yet.


































































Here is the corner of the shop I hate. I would love to get rid of everything in the corner and make it usable space, other than storage. I will someday.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

That's going to be a nice looking top. 

Do you have a set thickness in mind for the top or are you just going to make it as thick as possible after milling?


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Not sure yet. I may have to redesign my whole plan. I was thinking around 4/4 or maybe 7/8th, if I go with my original plan. The tight shot of the boards does not do it justice. I think once I plane it, I will be able to choose better.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Glad to see you're back at it Paul. Looking forward to your build.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

OK, I am back in the shop and progressing. I decided that I was going to scrap my plans and go with Greg Paolini's Fine Woodworking plans. I signed up for a year online, watched the videos and then bought the DVD with plans for only $17. This being my first furniture piece to be built, I wanted something that I could follow a decent plan, plus I liked the look of it. I am forgoing the storage of drawers on this one. I think I will be able to reuse the leg blanks I glued up for my plan in this new build.

Yesterday I ripped a ballpark straight line on all my rough stock and tried to mill a 7 foot long board on the jointer and planer. I have decided I am not up to that task at this point in my skill set and will have to rough cut the boards to a more manageable size for squaring up. The longest boards I will need are 4' and that is easier for me to work with on the planer and jointer.

I picked a nice 9' board to start with and cut it in half. Squared it up and then cut some 3" wide pieces for the top long rails and top side rails. I just hope they don't twist/cup on me.

































Leg blanks


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I have had a problem with tear out when jointing and planing. My jointer knives are new and should be sharp. I think they are in right. I do get a tiny bit of scalloping, but livable and planes out easy. I really need to learn to read the grain, but I have a hard time.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Like you said, reading grain will help. When it starts tearing, flip the board around. When I'm planing I flip each piece one side to the other to avoid tearout. I have used my block plane to see which way the grain is going.i have a hard time too reading grain, lol.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

With my Baltimore Ravens blowing another game early today, I gave up watching it and listened to it on the radio in the shop. I was able to mill and rough cut the top and bottom end rails and prepped the slats that will go between them on the side of the table. I also cut some veneer to wrap two of the legs on the sides that are not QS. I am following a plan, but the way I am milling the pieces is hap hazard due the rough lumber I have and trying to pick the right pieces. I pick a piece and start squaring it up, but many times I find it will be less than the 3/4 I need after planing and jointing. 

So now I have rough cut the long side rails, top/bottom end rails and slats. I also have some leg blanks glued up from last year when I started the project. After they sit a few days I will mill to final sizes and then begin joinery. I still need to work on squaring lumber for the top and shelf.


Just a pile of wood now, but coming along.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looking good .


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Got four hours of good shop time in tonight after a rough week at work. Today I got the six slats planed/cut down to size. I got all the rails cut and planed down to final sizes. I also got all the veneer for the legs cut and planed to size. Next step will be rough milling wood for the top and shelf to give it time to adjust and gluing the veneer to the leg blanks. Once I have all the parts sized, I will begin the joinery.

I have never done mortise and tenons before so wish me luck. Not sure what route I will take to cut the mortise. Either router or DP and chisel. That is unless I splurge with some of the freelance money I just earned and but a mortiser. I want the Powermatic bench top if I get one, but it is pricey and I would still need the chisels. There are not that many on this project, so I may do them by hand.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Paul, 

The bench top mortisers do make quick work of them. I hated mine till I went through and set it up correctly. Now I wouldn't be without it.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

How far are you from this one??

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/tls/4159420244.html


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Too far for gas and tolls to make it worth while. What one do you have? I see the Delta's pop up around here more often. I will eventually score one off CL if I don't buy new. I should have jumped on the PM one that was on CL last year for around $300+/-.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I have the craftsman one they don't sell anymore.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> I have had a problem with tear out when jointing and planing. My jointer knives are new and should be sharp. I think they are in right. I do get a tiny bit of scalloping, but livable and planes out easy. I really need to learn to read the grain, but I have a hard time.


I try to make the last pass through the planer a light one. I also try to have the correct direction of feed by watching the first passes as I get down to the final cut.

Nice build good choice on the plan.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looking good Paul.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

No pictures tonight, but I spent the day milling rough lumber for the top. I cut three 8'+ 4/4 boards in half and then set out to square them up. Not an easy process, especially since I had my jointer set to take such light cuts it was taking forever and killing me. I am sore now. So many passes. I wised up and change the cut to just under a 1/16" and things went faster. I think I might have started to get a handle on reading grain direction and had much less tear out today.

Part of my problem is the 4/4 boards I bought are shy of 4/4 and I am taking more material off than I had planned to get them square and smooth. It has been tough to keep them 3/4". I am also having to cut out some sap wood and knots. Add to this the problem I had with mold, some runs deeper than I can plane out, my big stack of wood is getting low. I may have to dive into the 7/4 boards I have, just to get 3/4" finished.

The boards I did plane today have some great grain, ray and flecks. I hope that they do not twist or cup after milling. I may try and post pics tomorrow.

Thanks for looking.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

*Table top progress*

Been off since Friday and have another week of vacation to go. I have spent the last few days milling rough lumber for the table top and hopefully shelf. I am practically out of my 4/4 stock, I have 1 9' x 10" board left. I bought the wood last year for $200 and was about 90-100BF. Which seems like a lot, but I guess with $2BF QSWO and my lack of milling knowledge, there is a lot of waste. To be honest, this wood was not quarter sawn at the sawyer. I it was flat sawn and it had a lot of QS in it. I cut a lot of pith and edge off the wood, contributing to my waste pile. The wood is also a shade less than 4/4 and after taking out twists and bows, it is tough to keep it 3/4". I also think his cuts were a bit wavy and thinner in some spots. But it probably is mostly me.

I also ran into some trouble jointing the glue lines. I seemed to be getting some gaps. All on the same left side. I did the thing where you mark an in face and out face and rotate the boards. I must have jointed this thing 4 different times and could not get it right. I wound up using one jointed side and ripping the boards on the TS with my combo blade and they seem way closer, basically no gaps. Not sure what I was doing wrong on the jointer. All the other milling on it came out fine.

So far in my coffee table building, the top seems to be the hardest to make. First taking rough boards and getting them all the same thickness has been a nightmare. Now getting the seems even for the gluing of the boards has been tough. I think I need a trip to HF to buy some more pipe clamps to reset my mind. Plus I need them for the glue up, I only have two. I also need to go to HD for some pipe.

To some up so far on the table top. While I have some nice boards for it, I am not 100% happy on grain patterns, but I am proceeding since I am almost out of 4/4. If I don't like it. I have some 6/4+ boards I bough separately, but now I am saving them if I can for something else. Plus all the 4/4 was from the same log and I figure it would have similar coloring.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Table top is glued up and drying. I pulled the clamps after a couple of hours. Scraped some of the excess off glue off, still a lot to get off, yet at the same time feel there might not be enough in the joint. It is also not easy getting the four boards lined up perfectly in the clamps. I should have made and used cawls.

This is going to require a lot of sanding. I hope my choice in grain selection and orientation works out well when it is finished. These were the best boards I could come up with in my stack. I am not 100% happy with them. After planing and jointing the boards are just shy of 3/4 at .73". I guess that is pretty close.

Panel glue ups are way harder than they look in the videos and on TV. I know this is mostly because it is my first large panel with multiple boards. I did a two board 13"x12" for my jewelry box and that came out uneven at the glue line too and needed some sanding to make right. I can't imagine doing a larger one than this, at 48", at this point. I will have to learn/get better if I am to continue building furniture, like I want to.

I know one of my major problems is not having an adequate assembly table or work bench. My work bench is a sea of uneven boards, from years of wood movement. It needs flattening or a new top. It was also not wide enough to hold the clamps. I put a piece of particle board and a piece of plywood on top. I need to build a good, flat assembly/outfeed table for behind my table saw.

I have been trying my hand at sharpening the card scraper I have and will try and use that on the top, before I go to the sander tomorrow.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Table top is glued up and drying. I pulled the clamps after a couple of hours. Scraped some of the excess off glue off, still a lot to get off, yet at the same time feel there might not be enough in the joint. It is also not easy getting the four boards lined up perfectly in the clamps. I should have made and used cawls.
> 
> This is going to require a lot of sanding. I hope my choice in grain selection and orientation works out well when it is finished. These were the best boards I could come up with in my stack. I am not 100% happy with them. After planing and jointing the boards are just shy of 3/4 at .73". I guess that is pretty close.
> 
> ...


Well Paul a card scraper is a step in the right direction. I would if I were you, pick up #80 cabinet scraper. Also, if you do more prep before you glue the wood together. It will make less work after. When I glue up I try to put as little pressure on the wood as possible until It's lined up. In a few minutes when your all aligned the glue will help keep the pieces aligned rather than slide them apart. Then I put on more clamping pressure.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks Al. I have been looking for a #80 on eBay. Not sure what I should pay for a used one. I know the Veritas #80 at Lee Valley gets good reviews, but is $69 plus $12 shipping. Don't know if I should go that route or spend $40-50 on an old Stanley.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

As far as letting the glue set up, I am already scared of glue drying before I am done, I constantly feel like I am in a race. I can't imagine slowing down even though I should. How long would you think one has with titebond 2 to get the four boards set?


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Paul, here are the application guidelines for Titebond II and Titebond III. TB II lists an "open assembly" time of 5 minutes with a "total assembly time" of 10-15 min. Those same times for TB III are 10 minutes and 20-25 minutes.

I've always used TB II, but with lower temperatures in my shop, I've started using TB III. I also like the longer working time.

If you are worried you are taking too long with getting everything glued and clamped, just glue two at a time and then glue the two halves together. As long as they fit together well, they only need to be clamped for about an hour.

I've got to give a big +1 on Al's recommendation on using a cabinet scraper. I was looking on ebay for quite a while before I bit the bullet and bought the Veritas a couple of months ago. After using it on my current project, I don't know how I worked without it. 

Two tips on getting it a little cheaper. Lee Valley periodically has free shipping on orders over $40 - that's when I bought mine. I don't think they really advertise this, I've just noticed it posted on their homepage.

The second tip is Lee Valley usually has a Black Friday sale where products that don't pass QA are heavily discounted. The items usually have small visual blemishes and nothing wrong with them that would affect performance. If you want to go this route be warned, they have limited quantities so you need to shop as early as possible. I have a couple of items I plan on purchasing this year and will probably do some late night/very early morning shopping.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Thanks All. I have been looking for a #80 on eBay. Not sure what I should pay for a used one. I know the Veritas #80 at Lee Valley gets good reviews, but is $69 plus $12 shipping. Don't know if I should go that route or spend $40-50 on an old Stanley.


A used one would be easy to tune up due to its small sole. Just stick some sandpaper on some plate glass and get it flat. Lee Valley is very fond of their tools, aren't they? My 80 is a Kunz.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> As far as letting the glue set up, I am already scared of glue drying before I am done, I constantly feel like I am in a race. I can't imagine slowing down even though I should. How long would you think one has with titebond 2 to get the four boards set?


Well I just wanted to point out prep. Making sure the mating surfaces go together without requiring a great deal of clamp pressure. If you clamp them in place and have good alignment. By the time your finished they should already be stiffening up to a point where they won't move when you crank down on the clamps. I know I can get excited in a hurry too when doing a glue up.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> *I try to make the last pass through the planer a light one. *I also try to have the correct direction of feed by watching the first passes as I get down to the final cut.
> 
> Nice build good choice on the plan.
> 
> ...


After I make the "final" pass to achieve the thickness desired, I make one more pass through the planer *without changing the settings*. Doesn't affect thickness, but does seem to make a smoother surface. Could just be my planer. :huh:


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> I have had a problem with tear out when jointing and planing. My jointer knives are new and should be sharp. I think they are in right. I do get a tiny bit of scalloping, but livable and planes out easy.* I really need to learn to read the grain, but I have a hard time*.


 
I have been learning to read the grain....Maybe these will help:

http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/determining-grain-direction

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CDgQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.popularwoodworking.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2010%2F10%2FWM_Grain_Direction.pdf&ei=TYeLUsG2FMvokAfKiYDYAg&usg=AFQjCNElSay7XjbHwESguNjNMgN2CIvWZg&sig2=lpdLb7iW-FgB910IL55yhQ&bvm=bv.56643336,d.eW0&cad=rja


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Al do you like the Kunz #80 scraper? I saw that you were using one and I just won an auction for one on Ebay for $10, plus 5.50 shipping. So for $15.50 I am able to get scraping. I wanted a Stanley or the Veritas, but the one, I won, looks almost new and there were no other bidders. I guess they are all going for the Stanley's because bidding is fierce on them, even for beaters. I never heard of Kunz before.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Alchymist said:


> After I make the "final" pass to achieve the thickness desired, I make one more pass through the planer without changing the settings. Doesn't affect thickness, but does seem to make a smoother surface. Could just be my planer. :huh:


My planer would leave drive roller marks.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Al do you like the Kunz #80 scraper? I saw that you were using one and I just won an auction for one on Ebay for $10, plus 5.50 shipping. So for $15.50 I am able to get scraping. I wanted a Stanley or the Veritas, but the one, I won, looks almost new and there were no other bidders. I guess they are all going for the Stanley's because bidding is fierce on them, even for beaters. I never heard of Kunz before.


I like it just fine. I don't know where the differences are if any. Good for you for $15.50. The Veritas has a longer aft side so they say it doesn't tip off the front of the wood as easy. They might start out flatter but that can be tuned up in no time.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Oh the humanity! I have to be the worst glue up artist ever. Watching Greg Paolini's video, building the coffee table I am making, he keeps saying glue is cheap, so use plenty. Well let me tell you something, I used plenty on gluing my veneers on my first two legs and it is a nightmare, so far. Pictures to come. The squeeze out got crazy on the top. I don't usually use the wet rag wipe method for squeeze out, but figured I would try it this time on at least one leg. I created a nice glue sheen on the entire bottom portion of a leg. I hope it planes/sands off. I am going to let the rest of the glue firm up and then scrape the, what looks like beads of caulk off. I really hope I don't need to redo these legs.

On a side note on the legs, the plan calls for them to be 2" square, well it tunes out they are going to wind up about 1-7/8+/-. Do you all think that is a big enough deal to worry about? I am leaning towards no.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Here are some shots from the earlier leg glue up. I got the veneers glued to the squared leg blanks, I still need to joint and plane to final width once all four are dry. I have two in clamps now. Lot of glue to clean up. Hope it all comes off and they look good.










































































More to come.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

While they were drying I decided to try and cut the table top to rough size with a bad circular saw and a edge guide. Results were not too good. This led to a 2-3 hour side project of building an impromptu table saw cross cut sled. I had some QSWO cut 3/4" already from all the 3/4" material in the build. I ripped the runners to the right height and cut a piece of 1/2" plywood that I had to TS top size. Screwed the runners to it and with some sanding had a somewhat smooth sled. I then milled a piece of oak I had lying around into the fences and screwed them on. Cut the slot and check for square, close, but needed an adjustment. After the adjustment it was cutting square. Now I didn't get fancy with the five cuts method of checking sqaure, I just checked with a few different squares I had in the shop.

So I got the top cut to final size. I almost came up too short with one of my boards in the glue up. I was lucky that it was about a 1/16" bigger than I needed. Not sure how I came that close.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Looking good so far Paul. 
Can't wait to see some more big updates.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul your protect looks pretty much like any I do. But I have to confess. I do not use that much glue. But hey, no worries about anything coming apart. If your dimensions change it's no big deal. I have this happen all the time. I used to end up with table tops less than 3/4" all the time. So I planed them to 7/8" but then they have a been coming out over 3/4". Go figure.

Thanks for all the pics and write up. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Here are some shots from the earlier leg glue up. I got the veneers glued to the squared leg blanks, I still need to joint and plane to final width once all four are dry. I have two in clamps now. Lot of glue to clean up. Hope it all comes off and they look good.
> 
> More to come.


If your in doubt about the glue coming off or if you got it all. Wipe over the wood with Min spirits. You will see the tale signs without messing anything up.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Well I destroyed one of my table legs today trimming the veneer on the jointer. Somehow the knives are out of whack, maybe they always were and that is why I couldn't get most of my 4/4 rough lumber milled to 3/4, always taking too much off to get the one side flat. Well my leg has a weird taper, unsquare cut in it and not enough material left to correct it. I will need to make one new leg. Even worse is I have to mess with the jointer knives again. I hate doing it and really suck at it.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Paul, I know you recently bought new blades, but you might want to check these out. http://www.estausa.com/self-set.html
I got a set of these last year and they are super easy to install.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I think you have told me about those before. They look like a good, easy system. But to be honest, if I was going to spend $275 on a system to replace the regular straight knives in my Delta 8" Jointer, I think I would spend $175 more and get a Shelix head for it. It is something I am seriously thinking about. Supposedly the many cutters give a cleaner, less tear out prone cut. If the Disposablade system was a bit cheaper, like $150 start up and then $35 for replacement blades I would have given it more thought.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> I think you have told me about those before. They look like a good, easy system. But to be honest, if I was going to spend $275 on a system to replace the regular straight knives in my Delta 8" Jointer, I think I would spend $175 more and get a Shelix head for it. It is something I am seriously thinking about. Supposedly the many cutters give a cleaner, less tear out prone cut. If the Disposablade system was a bit cheaper, like $150 start up and then $35 for replacement blades I would have given it more thought.


I'm so close to biting the bullet and getting the Shelix head for my planer. But I think you just need to give your jointer a tune up.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Yeah, the problem is I am terrible at tuning up the jointer. I changed the knives about six months ago and thought I finally had them set right, after what seemed like days of trying to set them up. I jointed a lot of wood for this table and they seemed right, but I did notice that I was having trouble getting a flat side, needing many passes or big cuts to get it un rough from side to side. This took more wood off than it should have and my 4/4 wood quickly became less than the 3/4 I needed. I will get back to setting the blades after I finish watching The Ravens Jets game. Stay tuned.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Yeah, the problem is I am terrible at tuning up the jointer. I changed the knives about six months ago and thought I finally had them set right, after what seemed like days of trying to set them up. I jointed a lot of wood for this table and they seemed right, but I did notice that I was having trouble getting a flat side, needing many passes or big cuts to get it un rough from side to side. This took more wood off than it should have and my 4/4 wood quickly became less than the 3/4 I needed. I will get back to setting the blades after I finish watching The Ravens Jets game. Stay tuned.


Go Ravens.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## caliwoodmastergv (Feb 24, 2013)

I did my jointer and plainer with Byrd industries helical heads. Worth every penny and easy to put in.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Now I am starting to think my jointer beds might not be co planer and in need of shimming. I need a good straight edge and some knowledge. I think I have watched and read just about every video or article on jointer set up. I actually wrote to my local woodworkers guild asking if they had anyone with expertise in jointer set up and they are going to get back to me. I went to a meeting a couple of months ago and they were very nice people. I am joining and going to go when I can once a month. We will see.


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## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Now I am starting to think my jointer beds might not be co planer and in need of shimming. I need a good straight edge and some knowledge. I think I have watched and read just about every video or article on jointer set up. I actually wrote to my local woodworkers guild asking if they had anyone with expertise in jointer set up and they are going to get back to me. I went to a meeting a couple of months ago and they were very nice people. I am joining and going to go when I can once a month. We will see.


 
I bought a used 8 inch Grizzly G0656 jointer and the beds were not co-planer(has dovetailed ways). I also did a lot of research on how to adjust the beds. I ended up using the straight edge/feeler gauge method and shimmed the out feed table to the in feed table. I used a cheap feeler gauge set for the shims. I also used a magnetic jointer jig to set the bladed height to the out feed table: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AJYQIO/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Rockler Magnetic Jointer Jig - Amazon.com[/ame]. This made setting the blades very easy.


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