# How would you rip cut at 22.5 degrees



## Ezee (Dec 24, 2011)

I'm building a bar in my basement that has two 45 degree bends. I need to rip cut some pieces for the face of the bar at 22.5 degrees. What would be an accurate and safe way to go about it? I don't have a bandsaw but have a table saw and circular saw. Thanks in advance!


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Ezee said:


> I'm building a bar in my basement that has two 45 degree bends. I need to rip cut some pieces for the face of the bar at 22.5 degrees. What would be an accurate and safe way to go about it? I don't have a bandsaw but have a table saw and circular saw. Thanks in advance!


Set your table saw to 22.5 with a Wigly Angle gage or similiar

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005894/18124/wixey-digital-angle-gauge.aspx


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## Ezee (Dec 24, 2011)

I have a Ridgid table saw and the blade only tilts to about 45 degrees


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*this is too easy unless...*

I'm missing something?:blink: Your bar top has 2 - 45 degree bends...right? that would be looking down on it from the top...right?
Then you want to face the edges with strips..right?
The strips need to be mitered at 22.5 degrees to match the top above or behind them...right?
They will be on the face of the edges or under the top, flush with the edge...right?

What part did I miss? A sketch or photo would help immensely. :yes:
I don't understand where ripping comes in...unless I missed something? :blink:


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

My solution would be to rip at 67.5 degree and flip it over... but I'm a bit confused here also. A visual is needed.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

for a bevel rip where the workpiece has 22.5 degree bevel the length of it's longest edge (i.e., a rip, not cross, cut):

set blade angle to 67.5 degrees (vertical is 90 degrees. tilt blade 22.5 degrees and remaining bevel angle, between table and blade, is 67.5 degrees)

make sure the saw has a ZCI

attach a sacrificial fence to the saw's fence

use a rip blade (i prefer a 24t blade, 30 would probably do for softwods)

it's kind of like raising a panel on a TS. in the pics below, i'd replace the OEM insert with a ZCI and reverse that panel raising jig sop the short side is on the blade side of the fence. with the work piece held vertically (it's narrow edge on the table of the saw), rip away. a featherboard would be a good idea for keeping the work piece pressed against the sacrificial fence.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

What material are you using to face the bar?

Will the bar be painted or stained?

Do you plan on adding any vertical trim at the 45° corners?

A drawing would definitely help us to help you with your questions.

It doesn't have to be CAD or to scale. A photo of a sketch would be just fine.


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## kimfarguson1 (Mar 19, 2013)

A router with a 22 1/2 degree chamfer bit would work great. Use it with a router table if possible. If a table is not available clamp it to a straight piece of stock to run your guide bearing on. This will give you a clean accurate joint.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Terrific Idea Kim. Thanks!


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## Troyscustom (Jan 7, 2013)

If your rigid table saw cuts a 45 degree bevel it will cut a 22.5 degree cut since that is half the bevel angle. Not sure what the dilemma is over setting the saw to cut what you want it to.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Troyscustom said:


> If your rigid table saw cuts a 45 degree bevel it will cut a 22.5 degree cut since that is half the bevel angle. Not sure what the dilemma is over setting the saw to cut what you want it to.


+1. :yes: I agree...what's the dilemma?








 







.


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> +1. :yes: I agree...what's the dilemma?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think the dilemma might be in the fact O.P. joined in Dec 2011 and has only 16 posts.

Maybe he is a newbie and still coming to grips with the terminology. Woodnthings explained what the question might have meant, be interesting to see if O.P. replies or has given up.

Sometimes, at the start, you have to push on into unknown territory.

Pete


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the dilemma ...*



Ezee said:


> I'm building a bar in my basement that has two 45 degree bends. I need to rip cut some pieces for the face of the bar at 22.5 degrees. What would be an accurate and safe way to go about it? I don't have a bandsaw but have a table saw and circular saw. Thanks in advance!


Confusion comes when "nubies and others" use the terms bevel, a long rip, when they might mean miter and the question is not clearly stated. Then there will be answers on how to rip at 22.5 degrees which are all correct technically.:yes:

When I read "two 45 degree bends", I think plan view or looking from the top down. Without out a sketch, it's hard to imagine where you might need a "22.5 degree rips for the face of the bar".:blink:

A vague question will result in vague answers...all of which may be correct technically, but not correct for the application. It's difficult to read minds on the net... just sayin'


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Without out a sketch, it's hard to imagine where you might need a "22.5 degree rips for the face of the bar".:blink:


Not hard to imagine at all. I've done quite a few bar fronts, and cabinets for that matter that have a "45 degree"..."135 degree" front, depending on how the line of the front is referenced. For the "45" formed by two panels, each will be ripped vertically at 22½ degrees, and joined.
.
















 







.


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## Ezee (Dec 24, 2011)

Cabinet man that's exactly what I was going for. Thank you to the majority of replies and my apologies for the lack of clarity. To clarify, I was referring to looking down the top of the bar at a 45 degree angle and jointed the two together. Maybe it is just my interpretation of a few posts, and if so I'm sorry, but I sense a little animosity. You are correct that I am new to woodworking. My full time job involves protecting the public from criminals and not professional cabinetry or furniture production. If this forum is geared towards a professional and not a "noobie" then I won't post anymore.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*no animosity from me*

As always the more detailed and clearer the quetion, the easier it is to give an answer that is appropriate. Just jump back in and you'll feel right at home. Sorry for any confusion on my part. :yes: And as always there may be more than one applicable solution that works well. That's what we are best at here, usually offering more than one solution. :blink:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Ezee said:


> Cabinet man that's exactly what I was going for. Thank you to the majority of replies and my apologies for the lack of clarity. To clarify, I was referring to looking down the top of the bar at a 45 degree angle and jointed the two together. Maybe it is just my interpretation of a few posts, and if so I'm sorry, but I sense a little animosity. You are correct that I am new to woodworking. My full time job involves protecting the public from criminals and not professional cabinetry or furniture production. If this forum is geared towards a professional and not a "noobie" then I won't post anymore.



Welcome
Your in the right place. This forum is not above any level of woodwork. Take a look at the project section and you will see many beginner and lesser experienced guys here. Lots of new woodworker questions are answered and the group is more than willing to help. Sometimes the thread question is answered in the first few posts but the thread will go on for days without the OP.

Read through some of the threads you may be interested in and get a taste for "how it goes here". Set your smart phone to macro and put us into your woodwork world.

Al B Thayer

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## P8tr10t (Jan 19, 2021)

So I am building a similar bar and while I’m good with the angle. My bar will have wall around the front at the same angle. The question I have is how do I calculate the length of each wall as they will be longer by a factor of the angle for example, the cabinet in the 45 is a 36” with a sink; the inner dimension is obviously 36” but what is the outer. I need to figure this out for not only the wall but the countertop as well. The wife wants wormy maple top and I am having a dickens of a time figuring this out.

thanks in advance.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Make a full size drawing.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Ezee said:


> Cabinet man that's exactly what I was going for. Thank you to the majority of replies and my apologies for the lack of clarity. To clarify, I was referring to looking down the top of the bar at a 45 degree angle and jointed the two together. Maybe it is just my interpretation of a few posts, and if so I'm sorry, but I sense a little animosity. You are correct that I am new to woodworking. My full time job involves protecting the public from criminals and not professional cabinetry or furniture production. If this forum is geared towards a professional and not a "noobie" then I won't post anymore.


Even professionals at rocket science begin as beginners...hence the word begin.. To my knowledge I've never been a professional at anything, even jobs I worked years at...Experienced, maybe. Professional? Ehhhh.. I think of the word professional as being someone who gets paid as opposed to someone who isn't paid...like amateur athletes vs professional athletes. Hey, I was a professional dishwasher at one point..my professional career was cut short due to injuries, broken glass, sharp knives, wet floors, poor working conditions, bad management, etc..Doncha just love how advertisers throw around the term, "the pros.."? Toilet paper the "pros" use...


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

DrRobert said:


> Make a full size drawing.


Agreed. I can build bars in my sleep...


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

P8tr10t said:


> So I am building a similar bar and while I’m good with the angle. My bar will have wall around the front at the same angle. The question I have is how do I calculate the length of each wall as they will be longer by a factor of the angle for example, the cabinet in the 45 is a 36” with a sink; the inner dimension is obviously 36” but what is the outer. I need to figure this out for not only the wall but the countertop as well. The wife wants wormy maple top and I am having a dickens of a time figuring this out.
> 
> thanks in advance.


this should have been a new thread, not attached to the end of a 8 yr old thread
the easy way is to mark the inside edge, this is 45° you'd obviously use 22.5°


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## kiwi_outdoors (Jan 15, 2020)

Ezee - your cut is not ripped - its a flat miter cut. Rips go along the length of the board (which is why a handsaw for rip cuts has fewer teeth per inch than a handsaw for cross cut). Beginners and noobs always welcome here  It seems that I am always noobish at one thing or another.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

_Ogre said:


> this should have been a new thread, not attached to the end of a 8 yr old thread
> the easy way is to mark the inside edge, this is 45° you'd obviously use 22.5°


Haven't you heard? Old threads ard new threads these days.

Once considered the forbidden fruit


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

Ezee said:


> Cabinet man that's exactly what I was going for. Thank you to the majority of replies and my apologies for the lack of clarity. To clarify, I was referring to looking down the top of the bar at a 45 degree angle and jointed the two together. Maybe it is just my interpretation of a few posts, and if so I'm sorry, but I sense a little animosity. You are correct that I am new to woodworking. My full time job involves protecting the public from criminals and not professional cabinetry or furniture production. If this forum is geared towards a professional and not a "noobie" then I won't post anymore.


Keep on posting, there are no dumb questions. Only dumb answers. Everyone of us was a "noobie" at some point. I did not realize what the problem was until I saw the picture of the bar. Because the three pieces look wide to me I would not attempt to rip the joint on the table saw. 
Set your hand held circular saw for 22-1/2° , or as close as you can get it. Using a straight edge saw the cut at least 1/8" too strong. Use a router and straight edge with a 22-1/2° cutter and make this cut exact. Sawing wide of the line is best, then rout to dimension. Tape the joint with masking tape and roll it down hard before sawing. This may alleviate chipping on the veneer. There is a much better way to alleviate chipping that I will not want you to try. This method is safe but not for rookies. If anyone is interested in this method let me know and I will post it. Make sure your panels are flat, any warp or cup will make it impossible to get the mitered joint perfect. When you glue up the panels use a glue with a long open time . 
Thank you for your service, 
mike


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