# Help with reclaimed barnwood flooring



## Busterbrot (Jan 7, 2018)

Hello everyone, thank you in advance for your thoughts and suggestions. I wanted to install hardwood floors in my new house and really loved the pictures of reclaimed wood that I saw online. So, last spring I took the plunge and went out to Amish country and bought some barnwood directly from a guy who tore down old barns. The wood needed kiln dried and then milled in order to get it ready to be used as flooring. I found a guy who said he'd mill it, and my instructions were to plane and tongue and groove the wood. I asked him to hit and skip the topside of the wood in order to keep some of the old patina and saw marks visible. I got a mix of 4,5,6,7, and 8” widths.

After getting the wood back from the mill and starting to organize it, I discovered a problem. Approximately 2/3 of the boards were cut to thickness 7/8” and the remaining boards were cut to the standard 3/4'’ thickness. That leaves 1/8” difference when the two different sizes are fit together with the tongue and groove, which is unacceptable for flooring.

The long and short of it is the guy who milled it needs to make it right/refund some of my money/give me more wood, etc. I’m working on that now, but in the meantime need to think of all possible solutions.

Possible solutions and their problems;

1. Planing 1/8” off of the top of the thicker boards would work, however I’d lose all of the patina on 2/3 of my boards, unacceptable. 

2. Planing 1/8” off of the bottom would not allow the tongue and groove to match up.

3. Ripping off the tongue and groove, planning 1/8” off of the bottom, re-tongue and groove. I’d lose a decent amount of the wood if that was done to 2/3 of my boards.

4. Using the thicker boards for one area of the house, and the thinner for another area, with a transition piece. This is the easiest solution, however, the thicker boards are the 4,5, and 6” width while the 7 and 8” widths are thinner. This would mean having one area of the house with all thinner boards and one with all wide plank. Not horrible, but not ideal.

Any other suggestions? The wood looks beautiful and I was so excited when I first saw it, but now this sloppy mistake has got me frustrated and scratching my head.

P.S. I'm dealing with approximately 700 sq ft of wood.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

I would go to the mill and ask why the difference in the thickness. He should make it right. Maybe two people were involved and each read his own spec's for the job.


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## Busterbrot (Jan 7, 2018)

Yes, I agree and am currently waiting for him to get back to me. Just making sure I'm not missing any easy solutions, so that when we talk we have all possible solutions on the table.


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## Roybrew (Nov 2, 2016)

If possible maybe add 1/8" hard board under the 3/4" thick pieces. I know that's a pain in the posterior. But would have to have future pieces milled 7/8 thick, they screwed up. I'd be on the look out with other screw ups, like the tongue and gooves. Just my thoughts. 

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## Roybrew (Nov 2, 2016)

Oops sorry. That won't work. That's a bad situation. 

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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Question!*

Does the tongue and groove fit off the top or the bottom of the boards? In other words when you mate them together, is the "offset" on top or the bottom. If on the bottom, them Roybrew's solution might work. Not so on the top, a 1/8" mismatch.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

The mill you used knew you were wanting flooring. They need to correct their mistake and make it right.


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## Busterbrot (Jan 7, 2018)

Thank you for the replies guys. Unfortunately the screw up is on the top side. The tongue and groove is cut closer to the bottom of the board, I assume to allow more board thickness for sanding and refinishing down the line. Flipping the board, while possible, would mean only 1/8-1/4" of sanding before you begin to impact the tongue and groove, meaning minimal floor refinishing. 

This is my current best option...I think. Use the 3/4" in one or two smaller rooms in the house and then either get money from this guy to purchase more wood at 7/8" (in the 7-8" width) or have him make it for me for free. If he doesn't like that, there's small claims court.

This guy was a red flag from the beginning; took forever to get back to me, never available, overshot his deadline and rushed his work. It's my own fault for going with him, but he was a younger guy trying to start a business. Figured I'd give him benefit of the doubt. Have some pride in your work for crying out loud!


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

This might be a lesson for all of us. Regarding instructions, I'm a firm believer in "Put it in writing." They get the copy and I keep the original. Eliminates the "You said- I thought."


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