# Best way to attach railing cap to handrail?



## AndyDuframe (Jul 27, 2008)

I'm rebuilding/replacing a pair of stair railings for a front porch. I've got the railing cap ready, but I'm not sure the best way to attach it to the handrail just underneath. Construction glue? A few small nails just to keep it in place? It has a pre-routed groove that sits fairly solid on the handrail.

It looks kind of similar to this:










The wood is treated pine.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I like to use screws. Easier to replace the piece later, and most pieces eventually need replacing.


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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

I attached mine with screws from underneath the top rail. No holes in the cap to worry about.


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## AndyDuframe (Jul 27, 2008)

Dave Paine said:


> I like to use screws. Easier to replace the piece later, and most pieces eventually need replacing.


Good point about making it easier to replace later (I'm always griping at the previous owner of my house for not making things easier to repair).

It's going to be a little tricky driving screws from below, though, since I'm using 2x4s for the railing. Maybe I can go in from an angle.

While I'm on the topic, does anyone have suggestions for priming treated lumber? I eventually want a white topcoat on everything, but as you probably know, most of the treated lumber at the big box stores is really, really wet. I've been told by some people to let it dry for 3 MONTHS before painting. That's just not going to work for me!

Thanks


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

AndyDuframe said:


> It's going to be a little tricky driving screws from below, though, since I'm using 2x4s for the railing. Maybe I can go in from an angle.


You're saying you are using a 2x4 for the railing, and then attaching a cap to the 2x4. Can you post a picture/image of the cap?










 







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## AndyDuframe (Jul 27, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Can you post a picture/image of the cap?


Thanks. Here's a quick photo:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

You can use screws. Drill a hole a little larger than the screw head about 1/2 way through the cap, or whatever depth to allow for what screw length you want to use.

It looks like you should be able to get the drill/driver between the rails.

The fact the screw is going into the handrail at an angle should not be a problem.

As for painting, you will need to let the wood dry. PT lumber is famous for being saturated with water.

Even when dry, I am not sure which type of paint will adhere to the PT. The chemicals are different these days, but the old PT did not take paint well. Tended to flake off.


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## AndyDuframe (Jul 27, 2008)

Dave Paine said:


> Drill a hole a little larger than the screw head about 1/2 way through the cap


Hmm...not sure I'm understanding. You're talking about drilling from below (not through the top cap) right? I'd rather not have to patch a hole from above, but drilling from below means I have a really long pilot hole to make (3 1/2") -- unless I go in at an angle.



Dave Paine said:


> As for painting, you will need to let the wood dry. PT lumber is famous for being saturated with water.


Roger that...the big question is for how long?



Dave Paine said:


> Even when dry, I am not sure which type of paint will adhere to the PT


I'm thinking about trying a shellac-based primer (Zinsser), because I know this type of product does a nice job of adhering to surfaces and then providing a surface that can be adhered to. Just a guess, though.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

AndyDuframe said:


> drilling from below means I have a really long pilot hole to make (3 1/2") -- unless I go in at an angle.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about trying a shellac-based primer (Zinsser), because I know this type of product does a nice job of adhering to surfaces and then providing a surface that can be adhered to. Just a guess, though.


Yes the pilot hole would be deep, but your drill bit should be long enough and you would not see the screw. The alternative is to screw from the side. I have done this on many occasions. It just means you will see the screws.

It will take weeks if not months for the wood to dry out.

I like the Zinsser products, but I would not consider them for external use unless the product specifically stated it was for external use.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you are going to go through the 2x4 into the cap, you'll need a long drill bit for a pilot hole, to get it into the cap. Then you'd need to drill out the hole at the underside of the 2x4 a little larger than the head of the screw to a depth of about 1¾". Then you need a screw to seat into the cap at least ½" or more, so that would be 2¼" or more.

Or, you could drive some 4d or 6d finish nails into the top of the 2x4 and snip off the heads on an angle, leaving about ½" or more sticking up. Then set the cap on top and tap down.

If you use either waterbase or oil base paints, the wood has to be dry and wiped with acetone. Paint will need periodic maintenance.









 







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## AndyDuframe (Jul 27, 2008)

Thanks, Cabinetman, Dave,
I think I'll pass on drilling the long pilot holes from below (dang, should have done that before I installed the railing!)

I like the idea of snipping off some nail heads (pretty creative solution cabinetman!). I don't think the rail cap needs much support overall, just something to keep it from jiggling. My biggest concern is keeping the rail cap from warping end-to-end. I could probably hide a couple angled screws to keep that from happening.


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