# Helping choosing coating to spray on cabinets



## romeyjdogg (Sep 23, 2016)

Hey all,

I apologize in advance for another cabinet question:

I have no idea which type of coating to use to get my cabinets white. Rolling and/or brushing is not an option for me because of the stippling and brush strokes. I have an el-cheapo Wagner turbine HVLP from Amazon that did a decent job when I sprayed my entry door with SW Solo (thinned ~10%).

The big question is: given my current equipment (el-cheapo turbine HVLP), are there any coatings that would work for interior cabinets? The usual suspects are BM Advance and Cabinet Coat, but I'm wondering if I could use a Target coatings tinted waterborne lacquer or some kind of milk paint and clear top coat? I'm open to any suggestions!

It is my understanding that, in general, lacquers are harder and wear better than paints. I have no idea if Target 6500 is thin enough to spray through my HVLP or if it is a good long term choice for cabinets. My concern with Advance and CC is that I would have to thin them past the recommended amount to get a nice spray. Other concern is that I will be spraying base cabs inside my home, so solvent based coatings are a no-no.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I've never seen anyone have nice things to say about a wagner sprayer. They are a type of airless which doesn't produce enough pressure to spray waterborne finishes without splattering.

I would recommend you get a air compressor and a pressure pot rig to spray cabinets. The gun attached to a hose is pressurized with paint and you can turn the gun at any angle to spray, a big plus when spraying the inside of a cabinet. 

If you take the necessary precautions you can spray solvent based finishes inside your house. I do it several times a year. The main thing is turn off everything anywhere in the house that has an open flame. Pilots on the furnace and water heaters, stoves etc first. Then even a light switch or something like a fan can create a spark which can ignite it. You could put fans in a window a distance from where you are spraying blowing fresh air inward. The light switches, turn every light you need on first and perhaps put tape over the switch. It's the action of turning a switch on or off which can make a spark. Then since you don't have an exhaust fan with an explosion proof motor don't just keep spraying, stop from time to time and let the fumes dissipate. 

As far as paint, you could use a pigmented lacquer however most of them are a type known as nitrocellulose which are not very water resistant. In time it may lift on the doors and such in front of the sink. A better type would be a pre-catalyzed lacquer. It would be more water resistant. Really the best finish you could use would be a pigmented conversion varnish.


----------



## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

On a car maintenance prog, they always use aerosols.
johnep


----------



## sbrader (Aug 27, 2015)

I sprayed SW ProClassic on a bathroom vanity. It looks very nice and worked well. Prep was crucial, though.

Scott


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I have brushed Coronada Rust Scat White Enamel on most of the wood trim in my house. I am not what you would call particularly good with a paint brush. However, from the results I had I would not hesitate to use it on cabinets. It is tough as nails and cleans easily.

 Rust Scat 

However, I do prefer lacquer for the job you are doing. I have used the Coronade white lacquer for two student desks with hutches and was very pleased with it. If memory serves the lacquer was under their Lennmar lable.

We used to have a paint store in town that most of the professional painters used. The owner and his manager really knew their business. All of the products I have mentioned were recommended by them. Unfortunately the owner died and the business closed.

George


----------



## romeyjdogg (Sep 23, 2016)

Thank you all for the valuable input!

Yes, the Wagner sprayers are kind of junky. In retrospect, I wish I had chosen something different. Interestingly though, it gave a decent finish on my entry doors. As far as lacquers and conversion varnishes go, are those thinner material than typical latex paints? Also, are there water based versions, or is solvent based the only "good stuff" available? I assume cabinet makers spray conversion varnishes for pigmented coats.

I've heard decent things about ProClassic, but haven't used it yet. I have been brushing BM Advance for my trim work and I like it. Takes a bit of getting used to, gives a great finish, but not something I would consider acceptable for cabinets (still some small brush marks). I assume ProClassic produces a similar result.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

As far as I'm concerned the solvent coatings are the good stuff. There are waterborne lacquers and conversion varnishes though. They are called that but the waterborne finishes are different and take a lot more elbow grease. For one thing the waterborne finish because of the water will raise the grain of the wood causing more sanding between coats. The last time I used waterborne lacquers was about 20 years ago and I know things have improved but it took 15 to 18 coats to equal what I was doing with a solvent lacquer with one coat of sealer and one topcoat. 

The proclassic line of paint is pretty good however I think you would find that glidden paint is thicker and covers better.


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I'm spraying a kitchen full of cabinets I built for my son's house right now. I'm using SW Chemvar conversion varnish, white. If you don't have a good gun and a big enough compressor to run it, don't bother. The chemvar has to be reduced and a catalizer added. Sprays nice and dries to touch in about ten minutes at 80 degrees. I'm spraying in a three sided 10' X 10' home made booth outside my shop. You really don't want to breath this stuff at all, so a respirator mask with organic filters is a must. I would not recommend shooting this indoors at all. I sprayed the first coat on Thursday. Sanded everything today, going to spray the second coat tomorrow. The sanding is a light pressure sanding with 400 grit just to take the fuzz off. The only place I had fuzz was on the birch veneer plywood I used on the boxes. The gun is a HVLP by devilbiss, has a built in regulator and gauge in the handle, takes 13 cfm. I have a 5 hp twin stage compressor that has no problem keeping up with it. That gun was $200. The Chemvar cleans up with lacquer thinner, but you can't use it for thinning. SW makes a specific reducer for it. 
Mike Hawkins:smile3:


----------



## romeyjdogg (Sep 23, 2016)

Looks great, Mike! I agree with your sentiments about not trying to spray something that harsh indoors.

Wondering if anyone has used the Target 6500 series (waterborne tinted lacquer) and can comment on the durability vs paint (i.e Advance), thickness of the material out of can, and if there are any concerns about the material cracking over time with wood movement.

Is checking or cracking over time a concern with lacquers or conversion varnishes over time due to the hard nature of the finish?


----------



## ColorStylist (Jul 19, 2014)

romeyjdogg said:


> Looks great, Mike! I agree with your sentiments about not trying to spray something that harsh indoors.
> 
> Wondering if anyone has used the Target 6500 series (waterborne tinted lacquer) and can comment on the durability vs paint (i.e Advance), thickness of the material out of can, and if there are any concerns about the material cracking over time with wood movement.
> 
> Is checking or cracking over time a concern with lacquers or conversion varnishes over time due to the hard nature of the finish?


The only way you should see cracking is:
1. applying a hard finish over a soft finish.
2. Apply too thick off a coat.
3. applying a coat over a non dry coat.
4. checking of the wood.....which should not be an issue in this instance.

Go to your local Sherwin Williams store and pick up some of the Pro Classic Acyrlic Latex. Super safe to use in doors and easy to spray. Pick up some Floetrol while your at it as that will help it to flow better. They can also give you advise on how to reduce the latex to spray through the wagner......although like Steve, I dont prefer using that equipment.

SW 7008 Alabaster is a Sherwin Williams color of the year for 2016. Ive used SW 7646 First Star white with great results as it a little cooler color. Go in and pick you a Swatch and they will tint to whatever color you want.


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Sprayed the second coat on today. Looks a whole lot better. Sprayed easier, fine tuned the settings on my gun, everything dried quickly. 
Mike Hawkins:smile3:


----------



## romeyjdogg (Sep 23, 2016)

Mike, that's look great! Nice work. Is everything birch? Did you use any primer prior to spraying your top coats?

I've tried spraying Advance with mediocre results due to my type of gun, so I assume ProClassic would be similar due to viscosity. I also have concerns about durability of paint vs something like a Target "lacquer". Anybody have experience or can speak to the difference in durability?


----------



## ColorStylist (Jul 19, 2014)

romeyjdogg said:


> I've tried spraying Advance with mediocre results due to my type of gun, so I assume ProClassic would be similar due to viscosity. I also have concerns about durability of paint vs something like a Target "lacquer". Anybody have experience or can speak to the difference in durability?


Spraying with a wagner sprayer, I have no experience other than spraying a privacy fence with 1 time, and the last time I will use one. You would probably have to thin the material and add a flow additive to get it to spray and lay down right. Once both finishes are dry, its a toss up on durability, because pro classic is an acrylic latex enamel which drys harder than a regular latex paint that you would buy and paint a wall with. 

Here is a good article you should read:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/kitch.../how-to-spray-paint-kitchen-cabinets/view-all

If you want superior durability, you can not be a catalyzed system.


----------



## romeyjdogg (Sep 23, 2016)

I am familiar with BM Advance, which I would guess is similar to ProClassic from a durability perspective. Target says adding their cross-linking additive to the EM6500 makes it like a "post-catalyzed" finish. Hoping for some feedback on that.


----------



## ColorStylist (Jul 19, 2014)

That goes with what I said above....you can't beat a catalyzed system. If the Wagner will spray it, that's the way you should go for more durability.


----------

