# dovetail fit help please



## larry0846 (Feb 20, 2013)

appreciate your help -- 

cut the through dovetails using a porter cable dovetail tool -- the fit is very tight -- to get the 2 pieces you see together -- i did a lirttle careful sanding on both the tails and pins -- and gently assisted the fit with a rubber mallet -- then wondered if that was too tight a fit -- that might cause issues later -- wood is walnut -- very dry -- i processed it from rough lumber -- should i sand more to make the fit easier ? can you use paraffin or other lubricant to ? 

many thanks -- appreciate your insights and suggestions --


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Looks fine to me


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

The depth of cut look a little low to me, but thats subjective. The joint seems fine looking at it, but it really depends on how you're putting it together. If you're going for a clueless joint, a tighter fit is better, but adding glue will cause the wood to expand and could cause issues with a tighter fitting joint. The general rule of thumb I've heard for joint tightness is fitting the joint dry should be able to be done by hand. If you have to hammer it together dry it likely won't fit with glue


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

larry0846 said:


> appreciate your help --
> 
> cut the through dovetails using a porter cable dovetail tool -- the fit is very tight -- to get the 2 pieces you see together -- i did a lirttle careful sanding on both the tails and pins -- and gently assisted the fit with a rubber mallet -- then wondered if that was too tight a fit -- that might cause issues later -- wood is walnut -- very dry -- i processed it from rough lumber -- should i sand more to make the fit easier ? can you use paraffin or other lubricant to ?
> 
> many thanks -- appreciate your insights and suggestions --


i do dovetales and pins all the time, i use the gifkin's jig, a perfet fit, if you have to sand any tham the fit is to tight, check the setting's and do some testing for a better fit, you should be able to dry fit even than it should fit tight but you should be able to wiggle it apart. mine i have it set so that when i glue i have to pound some on the wood to get it togother than clamp to pull it tight, on your's look's like the dovetale is a little short, they should be a little proud, or sticking out past the pin cut, so whan you sand it come's out like one piece of wood, on my jig the dovetales and pin's are cut on one set up no need to change any thing, that way all come's out perfect every time , do a test tell they fit like i describe


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## larry0846 (Feb 20, 2013)

thanks for the replies -- 

the bit depth was set to 1/32" deeper than the jig called for so you would be able to sand back flat after assembly -- i may not have gotten that right -- i had to remove several of the pins in the side pieces to marry up with the tail pattern -- i took them off with a jig saw and sanded any nubs flat -- i was planning on just sanding the assembled joints flat -- whatever it took -- 

i have only put together the one in the picture -- decided i needed some help before i went farther -- to fess up -- i made a big mistake cutting the tails the first time and had to re-make the front and back pieces -- so i am very anxious / hesitant / snakebit -- really, really want to get this box assembled without screwing it up again -- 

the joint is so tight -- i wasn't thinking about any glue -- once the box is put together -- it will be screwed down to the top of the drawer assy -- 

i guess my plan is to carefully sand both the tails and pins wrapping 150 paper around a flat tongue depressor like piece and try to loosen up the fit so it is between sliding on by hand and a 6" mallet swing -- and not glue -- 

thoughts ? many thanks --


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## larry0846 (Feb 20, 2013)

and perhaps i should add that the box pieces are put together with blind tongue / groove (1/4"w x 3/8"d) --


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