# How to finish teak?



## ctopherb (Apr 9, 2014)

Are there any special steps to take when finishing teak? I was planning on finishing a teak bench for the shower in Epifanes clear varnish, but I wanted to make sure there weren't any additional steps I need to take or if this is even the best way to finish it? Thanks!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Wipe it down with a solvent to remove the oils just prior to finishing. :smile:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

mdntrdr is correct. Because of the oil content of the wood after sanding wash the wood down with acetone to cut as much of the surface oil as possible before you finish it. The first coat I would thin it quite a bit.


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## ctopherb (Apr 9, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> mdntrdr is correct. Because of the oil content of the wood after sanding wash the wood down with acetone to cut as much of the surface oil as possible before you finish it. The first coat I would thin it quite a bit.



I believe acetone is the same thing as paint thinner, correct? I would also use the paint thinner to thin it down too, correct? Thanks for the help!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ctopherb said:


> I believe acetone is the same thing as paint thinner, correct? I would also use the paint thinner to thin it down too, correct? Thanks for the help!


Acetone is not the same as paint thinner, and not a thinner for oil base products. Paint thinner is similar to mineral spirits, which both are a thinner for oil base products.








 







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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

In preparing Teak for either glue ups, joinery, or finishing, it should be wiped with acetone after machining or sanding, and fabricated or finished within a short time period. For joinery, a two part epoxy is what I would use.








 








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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Lacquer thinner is a substitute for acetone. You can use either as your wipe-down. When wiping down change the face of your rag or towel for each stroke otherwise you will be just smearing the oil around.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

If you're just doing the varnish, I would wash down with what the directions on the can say to use. That's probably going to be some proprietary and expensive Epifanes product, but in my experience these products do seem to outperform their generic counterparts, especially with marine finishes. 


If the bench in question is going to literally be _in_ the shower, I think even epifanes will eventually let some water get under the finish and eventually ruin it. There's a school of thought that says that encapsulating the wood with epoxy before applying the varnish will exclude water for a longer period of time. Nothing's forever where water intrusion is concerned, but this may elongate the time between re-finishing. 

Here's an article:

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

ctopherb said:


> I believe acetone is the same thing as paint thinner, correct? I would also use the paint thinner to thin it down too, correct? Thanks for the help!


 Acetone is a much stronger solvent than mineral spirits. Lacquer thinner would be a second choice however it is weaker than acetone. Lacquer thinner is a blend of solvents which varies from brand to brand. It often contains acetone or methyl ethol keytone, toluene and alcohol and I think a few more. Mineral spirits is often turpentine and naphtha or stoddard solvents. The idea is to use the strong solvent to cut the natural from the surface of the wood so the finish can bond better. 

You can use mineral spirits to thin the Epifanes.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I can speak for both marine and indoor furniture uses. 

Generally teak is "unfinished" so to speak. The finish is a specially formulated oil made specifically for teak. 

I've applied the teak oil in a marine environment. I was too dense to realize that the marine version of teak oil is too thick for furniture.

The teak oil for furniture is much thinner and really suited to the task. 

Neither are a "curing" finish and will need to be redone about every 6 months for furniture. I'm not sure about the marine recoating. On furniture, nose oil is a good spot repair until recoating.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

After an acetone wipe down, a film finish can be applied if desired. The so called "Teak Oils" available could be made from Linseed oil, Tung oil, and some are even from mineral oil, Castor oil or Soy oil. There can be additives to thin the oil for better penetration, polymers, accelerants to promote the drying, and UV inhibitors. 








 








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## ctopherb (Apr 9, 2014)

Quickstep said:


> If you're just doing the varnish, I would wash down with what the directions on the can say to use. That's probably going to be some proprietary and expensive Epifanes product, but in my experience these products do seem to outperform their generic counterparts, especially with marine finishes.
> 
> 
> If the bench in question is going to literally be _in_ the shower, I think even epifanes will eventually let some water get under the finish and eventually ruin it. There's a school of thought that says that encapsulating the wood with epoxy before applying the varnish will exclude water for a longer period of time. Nothing's forever where water intrusion is concerned, but this may elongate the time between re-finishing.
> ...


I like the sound of this idea. Hopefully I won't have to re-finish it as often. But sounds like I will still need to use Acetone to wipe it down first. Thanks for everyone's information on the difference in Acetone and paint thinner.

I was wondering...is Teak ever stained in any type of way to bring out the look of the wood? Or are clear coats only normally used?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ctopherb said:


> I like the sound of this idea. Hopefully I won't have to re-finish it as often. But sounds like I will still need to use Acetone to wipe it down first. Thanks for everyone's information on the difference in Acetone and paint thinner.
> 
> I was wondering...is Teak ever stained in any type of way to bring out the look of the wood? Or are clear coats only normally used?


I don't know about others, but I usually don't other than an enhancement of a 50/50 wipe with BLO/VM&P Naptha. Pure Tung oil won't darken Teak, like BLO will.








 








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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> Lacquer thinner would be a second choice however it is weaker than acetone.

The primary ingredient in most lacquer thinners is acetone.


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## ctopherb (Apr 9, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> I don't know about others, but I usually don't other than an enhancement of a 50/50 wipe with BLO/VM&P Naptha. Pure Tung oil won't darken Teak, like BLO will.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply. Although, I just was reading on the page that was suggested for using the epoxy and they recommend a water-based stain under the epoxy. I'll have to decide what I'm going to do.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I've been using epoxy as a sealer/grain filler in figured woods and discovered that the epoxy itself "pops" the grain just about as much as tung oil. The amber color of the Epifanes will also "pop" the grain of teak. Unless you're looking to dramatically change the color of the teak, I don't think you need stain or dye.


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