# 10 x 6 work bench



## bearman (Sep 3, 2013)

new to the forum. i'll do searches for a work benchs. bought a house. open to suggestions/ info/ ideas. planing to construct a 8x6 or 10x6 bench, center island shelves, lower shelf- complete access from both sides. position bench back of garage, thinking access 360 around bench. retracting wheels added later. vises on one side- or end. router, mounted on on quick attachable table when routeing. thanks for any info/ suggestions.


----------



## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Here is a link to my bench... since you asked

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/versatile-small-shop-work-bench-unique-40361/


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

bearman said:


> new to the forum. i'll do searches for a work benchs. bought a house. open to suggestions/ info/ ideas. planing to construct a 8x6 or 10x6 bench, center island shelves, lower shelf- complete access from both sides. position bench back of garage, thinking access 360 around bench. retracting wheels added later. vises on one side- or end. router, mounted on on quick attachable table when routeing. thanks for any info/ suggestions.


Why so big?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*it sounds huge!*

It will be difficult to reach across and get small pieces, apply pressure, crank down clamps, attach stuff etc.

My out feed table doubles as an assembly bench. It measures 10 ft X 45" and if you count the saw tables 72" or 6' X 10". There are times I can't reach small pieces so I have to push them over to one side with a stick.

Unless you integrate it into a saw table with support on all sides, I would go "modular" and make sections that hook together with locating pins to keep them flush. This way the supports will be distributed all around the entire table and it will be strong and versatile.

The largest assembly table I have seen in friend's shops is 4' X 8'. and made with 2 or 3 pieces of MDF for strength and flatness. The top piece is removable for a new surface. The whole unit is on wheels for mobility. 


An assembly table doesn't need the same structure as a workbench where you will be planing or pounding with a mallet. Some assembly benches are 18" off the floor for making larger cabinets and furniture pieces.
It also need not be that much larger than the largest piece you intend to make.... 3' X 6', 4' X 4'...etc.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Bearman

While some here have benefited from reinventing the wheel (bench). Most times the size is around the same give or take a few and your numbers seem to be off the charts. Unless you build big items and want to set them on the bench to work on them.

Long is good wide might not be so good and really just becomes a place to stack stuff. Then there's the actual building of the bench. Quite a task if it's 6' wide.

Look into the kind of work you will most likely do and research benches suited for it. I build furniture and therefore build a traditional woodworkers bench with two vises. I believe the bench is the number one tool in the shop.

Al


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I agree wholeheartedly on the table being too wide.
Mine is 30 inches wide and works great for most of the things I do. Since it also serves as an outfeed table, assembly table and clamping table, I added an extension to the back side, that I can raise into position when I need the extra width, or lower it when it isn't needed.

This has worked pretty good. Especially since I am working in a one car garage, and everything is in close quarters. 

Note: For those times when a bigger project is being assembled, I set up my adjustable height work table to provide extra length support. :thumbsup:

Good luck.
Mike


----------



## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

I have been looking at work bench designs and ideas myself. I'm not looking for a bench to actually work on or assemble projects, but a bench to mount a contractors table saw, a router, and a miter saw. The best information I have found so far is to make the work bench the proper height when you are working on it. Don't make it to short where you are constantly bending over and makes your back hurt or too high where you are working in your face. Only you can decide this, depending on your height, how you are comfortable working, the size of your projects, and MOST important what is safe for you!!!!


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

dirty-curty said:


> I have been looking at work bench designs and ideas myself. I'm not looking for a bench to actually work on or assemble projects, but a bench to mount a contractors table saw, a router, and a miter saw. The best information I have found so far is to make the work bench the proper height when you are working on it. Don't make it to short where you are constantly bending over and makes your back hurt or too high where you are working in your face. Only you can decide this, depending on your height, how you are comfortable working, the size of your projects, and MOST important what is safe for you!!!!


Well Dirty, you need to check out the videos produced by Ron Paulk. He has the plans for exactly what you are asking for. Check out You Tube. Lots of info how he constructs the tables and all. I bought his plans mostly for reference when I was building my miter saw station.

Good luck.
Mike


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

That's seems like a horribly inconvient size. Qwhat are you going to do when your pencil rolls into the middle of the bench? Personally, if you really need that much surface area, build 2 benches in the 2x5 range and put em on casters, when you need a bigger work surface, roll em together. 

Bigger isn't always better. You wouldn't use a 10 pound sledge to drive a Brad nail, would you?


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

BernieL said:


> Here is a link to my bench... since you asked
> 
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/versatile-small-shop-work-bench-unique-40361/


Bernie, I have my hand screw clamps set up right now to hold the ends of some crates I am putting together. The combination of tracks, hand screws and bolts/knobs make a wonderful pair of hands (or two)! :thumbsup:
Mike


----------



## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

Thank you MT, I will check out his videos tommorrow.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*let's call 'em what they are ...*



dirty-curty said:


> I have been looking at work bench designs and ideas myself. I'm not looking for a bench to actually work on or assemble projects, but a bench to mount a contractors table saw, a router, and a miter saw. The best information I have found so far is to make the work bench the proper height when you are working on it. Don't make it to short where you are constantly bending over and makes your back hurt or too high where you are working in your face. Only you can decide this, depending on your height, how you are comfortable working, the size of your projects, and MOST important what is safe for you!!!!



What you are describing is a tool stand and you won't find much help searching for workbenches.

Assembly tables are not workbenches, and are not meant for bangin' and planin' on. They are sturdy, don't wiggle or wobble but aren't made out of 3" solid lumber with 4 x 4 legs for added weight and stability.

A workbench can be any size, but most are about 5 ft to 8 ft long and from 24" to 30' or so wide,. if you are staying in the traditional joiners style.

so what you call them does make a difference in the replies you get and how you search for examples....just sayin'


----------



## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

I completely understand what you are saying woodnthings, however in all of my searches, I have had more luck in finding what I am looking for by searching work benches or work tables. Searching tool stands basically just comes up with a stand for a single power tool. In the wood working world we understand the difference between all of the diffferent tables and benches, but in cyber space, Google, You tube and Pinterest, that is not so.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*stands for multiple tools*

I searched for: stands for multiple tools

http://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...fr=ytff1-gl-gen1&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-006

There's quite a few interesting ones :yes:

table saw surrounds:

http://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...r2=piv-web&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-006&type=


----------



## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

Well I must admit woodnthings, you got me!!!! I never even thought to search for stands for multiple tools. I guess that's why rely on forums for help and information.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Workbench*

Bearman, 
Welcome to our forum. 
You've already received some good ideas and opinions on a workbench, but I want to to jump in on this subject too. 
The opinion of everyone who has responded so far is your bench plan is too large. The workbench can be a great new addition to your shop, but it shouldn't take up all the space in your shop. 
And a 5'-7" person may like a 30" tall bench, a 6'-2" person may prefer a 35" height. 
It is almost the same for length and width, the tried and proven sizes can be altered, but 5" one way or the other will make a big difference. 
Most of us like to move the bench occasionally. If you build your original plan, it will be to big and heavy to move. 
If you stay close to a normal size workbench, I think you will be much happier. 
You can then put all your personal touches on it to make it your design.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Lol...*



dirty-curty said:


> Well I must admit woodnthings, you got me!!!! I never even thought to search for stands for multiple tools. I guess that's why rely on forums for help and information.


Well after 17,000 plus posts I have become a pretty fair "searcher" LOL. I also use "Images" a lot and You Tube is one of the best resources, BUT you need to watch the entire show in case the guy is an idiot... yup ... there are some on the site.


----------



## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

My benches are getting progressively shallower, front to back. 

My first was just over 30", and 10' long. It was good, but I was constantly just piling things at the back, so nothing ever got put away. I also needed a step-stool to get anything off the pegboard behind it, because the wall was so far away.

My current bench is 24" front to back, and I lose a full inch at the back to a tool rack. It's pretty good, and once in a while I'm assembling something and use the full depth, but overall I'm still piling things at the back while I work.

My plan for my next bench is 18-20" front to back, probably with a 3/4" gap in the middle. I'm thinking a split-top bench, maybe 11" at the side near me, a 3/4" gap in the middle, and then 7-8" on the side away from me. That's likely the smallest I'd want to get, but the gap would give me the option to extend it later by replacing the rear section. To be honest, I'm not convinced I'd need more space than that.


----------



## bearman (Sep 3, 2013)

i like height of bench 36". my thoughts of build, vises/ ass./ planking one side. reloading, bonsi build, kreg jig work other. won't have to section 2 benches together to obtain more work area when needed. i'm 6'4, center shelves won't be excessive to reach, screws/bolts/nails/fasterners will all be in containers. will make shelves removeable. won't need to move bench w/ 360 deg. use. also building a slip snatch block near bench. sno thrower, mower, portable stand- mitre saw , shelves out in the 10 x10 shead. and still have room for suv in the garage. everyone have a good week. rec. a notice to make 5 posts to answer thank yous and im's. have to research


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I built some cabinets for my garage/workshop a couple of years ago. No plans. I just winged it. They are hung on French cleats and screwed to the studs. They hold a lot of weight, but can me moved if I decide to redesign the garage (highly unlikely).

I have all of the screws, bolts, etc I use for my projects in tackle box trays. Pull one out and take it to the project or simply take out what you need. One tray has all of the drill/driver bits in it. I have used it so much, one tab is broke off.

The tools I use most often sit ready to go at any time. The dividers can be removed for storing wider tools such as a router. This type of organization has worked very well for me. Everything I need all in one place. The tool boxes are loaded with mechanical and woodworking tools.

Good luck getting set up in your garage.
Note: I have never parked a vehicle in my one car garage since buying the house in 1987. 
Mike


----------



## bearman (Sep 3, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> I built some cabinets for my garage/workshop a couple of years ago. No plans. I just winged it. They are hung on French cleats and screwed to the studs. They hold a lot of weight, but can me moved if I decide to redesign the garage (highly unlikely).
> 
> I have all of the screws, bolts, etc I use for my projects in tackle box trays. Pull one out and take it to the project or simply take out what you need. One tray has all of the drill/driver bits in it. I have used it so much, one tab is broke off.
> 
> ...


MIKE, like the setup for the drills. adding, saw and sander slots. ,deceided to go w/ an 8 x 4 table, no center shelves, casters that will raise up, garage level. then build a standing shelveing like your set up, but against a wall. almost everything, one bench one shelveing unit. what is going to help is the 10 x 10 shed in the back yardf or other storage.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

bearman said:


> MIKE, like the setup for the drills. adding, saw and sander slots. ,deceided to go w/ an 8 x 4 table, no center shelves, casters that will raise up, garage level. then build a standing shelveing like your set up, but against a wall. almost everything, one bench one shelveing unit. what is going to help is the 10 x 10 shed in the back yardf or other storage.


Sounds like a plan. Post some pics so we can gawk at your set up. :icon_smile:


----------



## bearman (Sep 3, 2013)

Mike, when we move in, i'll just have to find out how to post pictures. the garage can hold 2 veh., one behind the other. room is no option. during the winter spend alot of time in the garage. have to research maybe a gas heater, or section off the bench/ shelf area. starting to sketch bench and shelves. cut lumber and kreg jig the holes before move in. assembly on the level floors it should be easy. garage i have now, from wall out 3' tapers 1 1/2", a pain. the 12' bench i had was good, solid, used 2 large end tables and a living rm. table. the end tables had a lot of storage, other table mounted on top of end tables,also had compartments and shelves, built a bench attached it to the other tables, then plywooded the top. double vises spaced 5'. i could use a 3 lb. swinger and the bench never moved. my old mill buddie came and just smiled at the assembly. he has build some great looking bench/ drawer combinations in his celler. thanks for your info and time. have a good week. rich


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

bearman said:


> Mike, when we move in, i'll just have to find out how to post pictures. the garage can hold 2 veh., one behind the other. room is no option. during the winter spend alot of time in the garage. have to research maybe a gas heater, or section off the bench/ shelf area. starting to sketch bench and shelves. cut lumber and kreg jig the holes before move in. assembly on the level floors it should be easy. garage i have now, from wall out 3' tapers 1 1/2", a pain. the 12' bench i had was good, solid, used 2 large end tables and a living rm. table. the end tables had a lot of storage, other table mounted on top of end tables,also had compartments and shelves, built a bench attached it to the other tables, then plywooded the top. double vises spaced 5'. i could use a 3 lb. swinger and the bench never moved. my old mill buddie came and just smiled at the assembly. he has build some great looking bench/ drawer combinations in his celler. thanks for your info and time. have a good week. rich


My garage floor is unlevel and uneven.  I think the guys that poured the streets in our neighborhood, also poured our slab. :yes:

When I built my workbench/table, I made home made leg adjusters for it. They have worked great for several years. Yeah, I know the table doesn't really have to be level, just flat. However, I did want it somewhat level and sitting solid on the legs.

I used 5/8 inch bolts, nuts and washers to make the adjusters. Two nuts are sunk into the legs and secured with Gorrilla glue (the foaming stuff). To insure the threads would work together on the bolts, I ran a bolt through the nuts, then pounded them into the holes. I had previously drilled the holes and chiseled out the sides so the nuts would fit.

Add a washer and a third nut to the bolt and you are ready to adjust your hearts content! :icon_smile:

My bench is heavy and the top is a solid core door cut to fit w/Formica on top.

Check out the pics below. The adjusters make it easy to level your table/bench.

With all that said, they might not work for you if you have it on casters. I forgot about that. 

Good luck. Take your time getting all set up. When I see my pics from a couple of years ago, I realize things have been moved around, rearranged, and/or modified from their original position. 

The only thing that is in the same spot is the table saw and this bench. I have about 4 feet from the overhead door to the front of the saw. I cut with the outfeed going into the garage and out over the work bench. If I am ripping anything longer, I open the door. I try to plan that to keep the weather out and my cool air from the AC inside! :thumbsup:

Question- Are the walls finished with drywall or are the studs exposed? If they are exposed, this would be a great opportunity to run some electrical and add insulation. :yes: :yes: :yes:


----------



## bearman (Sep 3, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> My garage floor is unlevel and uneven.  I think the guys that poured the streets in our neighborhood, also poured our slab. :yes:
> 
> When I built my workbench/table, I made home made leg adjusters for it. They have worked great for several years. Yeah, I know the table doesn't really have to be level, just flat. However, I did want it somewhat level and sitting solid on the legs.
> 
> ...


mike, like your bench. change #17. gonna forget about the casters. the 4x4's, w/ the bolt adjusters will be used. just blocked walls in garage, but the idea of studs, then, drilling for wireing, lath the studs is a good suggestion. there are many outlets in the garage. also have to research, have an estimated covered 10'x17' flat slab area under the back porch that comes from the den not counting the footage for the steps. good cover for the mitre saw on portable stand that can extend out to 13'. don't mind the cold. thanks for the pictures/ info and time. rich


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks.

The legs are 2x4's that have had the rounded edges ripped off, then they were glued together and milled to make each leg about 3 inches square. The bench is assembled with lap joints, glue and lag bolts. It is built like a tank.


----------



## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Now I may be wrong Mike, but are you saying you glued worksurface down? I would suggest to not glue down the bench top because if your like me, stains, glue and paint will get spilled on it and sometimes the drilling and sawing gets a bit aggressive. My bench top gets a new look every few years.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

BernieL said:


> Now I may be wrong Mike, but are you saying you glued worksurface down? I would suggest to not glue down the bench top because if your like me, stains, glue and paint will get spilled on it and sometimes the drilling and sawing gets a bit aggressive. My bench top gets a new look every few years.


Yep. Contact cement. I will probably change out the whole top in a year or so. I have a lot of use out of that $8 solid core door. :thumbsup:

Maybe I will make the next one replaceable.


----------

