# Maple End-Grain Sanding Question



## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I am finishing up a maple end-grain cutting board as a present. This one isn't decorative, it's to be used, therefore the end-grain top. 

I just finished the final glue-up and plan to run it though the planer (very light cuts) to even the top and bottom. After that I'm not sure what sanding procedure to use to get a nice surface without getting permanent sanding marks on that hard end grain. My normal procedure with hardwoods is to start with a belt sander (120 grit), then use a ROS with 220. 

What do you think would be a good sanding method for this project? I'm going to finish it with a food-safe mineral oil.

Thanks,
Bill


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## wwinsauer (Dec 7, 2010)

Good luck with the planer and let us know how that goes. Most people i know of that have made end grain butcher blocks use a drum sander to plane and sand. 

120 should do fine then probably 150 then 220. My reason is not so much the grit but the fact that you will have to sand end grain at least 3 times longer than side grain. It wont hurt to throw the 150 in there and it will ensure you spend enough time with the ROS. I have also found that most 150 grit papers are very sharp and do very well on end grain without all of the grit coming off of the paper in 5 minutes of sanding. Just my .02

Wayne

Ahh, Just remembered. Pour some mineral spirits on to the board and use a #3 or #4 hand plane if your machine planer gives you trouble.


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## ed_h (Dec 1, 2010)

Bill-

I've made a couple of endgrain maple projects, including a frestanding 10-inch thick butcher block, and a 24 sq ft, 3-inch thick counter top. If you put it through a thickness planer, be sure to fasten some sacrificial blocks on the trailing edge. Otherwise the grain will seriously tear out. Use very sharp knives and light cuts.

I sanded mine to 150 with a belt sander. That actually might be good enough, but it wouldn't hurt to go over it with 220.

The block will absorb serious quantities of mineral oil over time.

Ed


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## Buildsafire (Dec 4, 2010)

I too would start with 120 grit, after planing. I would hit it with 120, then 150, then 220 - all with the belt sander, then I would repeat the same grits with a RO sander, and then use some Mineral Spirits to really clean that end-grain up.

Good luck!


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Thanks for the advice, guys! I have already glued on a sacrificial rear edge as I figured that area was going to chip no matter what. If the planer idea doesn't work out, I'll attack it with the belt sander.

Ed_H: Wow, you did some serious butcher block! This one's small - just 12x11x1-1/4". It's for someone with a small kitchen in their apartment and it will be able to be hung on the wall.

Bill


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## Jstove (Nov 18, 2010)

Why your at it run that end grain through your jointer too. I would not advise the end grain through the planer my brother now has 5 screws in his fore arm from his attempt at running an endgrain cutting board through my planer. I seen it happen not to mention I warned him 3 times. Shot out like a bullet and smacked him in the right arm which he stuck out to protect his chest. Good luck!!


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## ed_h (Dec 1, 2010)

Endgrain in a thickness planer probably is riskier than flatgrain, but endgrain/flatgrain is sometimes a matter of degree, especially around knots or wild grain.

With good gluejoints and a trailing flatgrain piece securely fastened (I screwed it on), you should be OK if you take it slow. Since both sides of the block will be uneven, you'll probably have to fasten the block to a sled to get a flat bottom reference surface.

If you use a jointer I think you'd need the trailing piece, too.


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

I have done a lot of dangerous things in my life but I still haven't been able to bring myself to put a end grain cutting board through my planer. 
I am not sure what you mean about the end grain not being decretive, there is so much potential in design in a end grain board.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Thanks for the idea of using a sled. Good point.

I had an extra end-grain piece cut and I glued it on as the sacrificial back edge. I figured I'd cut it off later. My jointer is only a 6" so it's not big enough for this.

I guarantee you that I will be standing nowhere near the back of the planer when I feed this project through!

Bill


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## ed_h (Dec 1, 2010)

IMO, the trailing "sacrificial" piece shouldn't be endgrain up. The knives will tear the grain away at the trailing edge. With multiple passes, it might chew up the entire extra block and then some. At best it'll make a racket, but it can't be good for the planer, either. I'd securely screw a piece on the end that has logitudinal grain, or at least cross grain, but not end grain up.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I sure wouldn't sacrifice my planer blades, and maybe the planer, running an end grain cutting board. Even if it doesn't break up and shatter in the planer, it will dull the knives quickly. A couple beltsander belts are a lot less expensive.


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

I agree with those advising caution. Have patience and just do a lot of sanding or hand planing.


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## smoky10 (Oct 23, 2009)

I run end grain cutting boards through my planer all the time. My planer says nothing shorter than 14" should be run through it to keep it from kicking back so I make mine 15" and take very light cuts. I also use strips on each end to stop tear out.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Well, guys, the deed is done! I didn't have complete success but was close enough. 

Here's how it went: I knocked down the high spots on the board with a coarse belt in my sander. It wasn't too bad as I did the glue up on my table saw's table (on a piece of wax paper). I pushed the board through my planer (power off) until I just felt it catch the rollers. Then I powered on the planer (DeWalt 733 2-blade) and made about three or four passes before any cutting occurred, while standing to the side and pushing the board with a stick until the rollers caught. 

I was advancing the feed only 1/8 of a turn (1/128"). After a few passes the planer knocked off a hunk of the artificial strip I had glued to the back, then got some more of it on subsequent passes (see pics). Then I got some chip-out on the main board which required some trimming later (slight project re-design :whistling2: ). Actually, I think I only lost about 1/4" off the outer edge.

I should have done as ed_h said and not used an end grain strip for the sacrificial. I just had a spare strip laying on the bench so it was easy. It would have probably worked, too, but I only laid a light bead of glue across it instead of enough to cover the whole joint. Live and learn.

Anyway, then I flipped the board and started on the other side and that went well, too, except for chipping the back edge. After planing I trimmed the bad edge on my RAS. Then I started sanding with the ROS but that didn't get some of the sanding marks out from the initial belt sanding so I went back to the belt sander with 120 then to the ROS again to finish.

The board is getting a cherry handle that will be glued and doweled in place. I cut a 1/2x1" dado in the 're-designed' end with my router table for that handle. I got a little chip-out that I glued back on which is why there is tape in the corner in the last pic. I also rounded the corners on my disk sander and radiused the edges on the router table.

Anyway, I wouldn't hesitate to run end grain through the planer again. Just take tiny cuts.

Oh, Mizer said - "_I am not sure what you mean about the end grain not being decorative, there is so much potential in design in a end grain board. _ "

I agree completely. It's just that this board is to be more for cutting/chopping and I didn't want it to be so pretty that it wouldn't get used for that. I made a cherry/walnut board for friends last Christmas with inlaid initials (pictures in my album). I'm quite sure that board will never see a knife. The one I'm doing now is meant to be a kitchen utensil, especially with the advantage that end grain has for knives.

Bill


The three pics are: 1) before planing 2) after planing and knocking the sacrificial edge off 3) after sanding, rounding edges and cutting dado for handle.


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## ed_h (Dec 1, 2010)

A nice finished project, and some practical knowledge about working wood. I'd call that a success all around!


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## wooddude9 (Sep 6, 2008)

Ya know that is one hell of a jolt on your tools to do that besides unsafe.It may have worked out this time but there are so many other ways to do that. So just be safe


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## wwinsauer (Dec 7, 2010)

Hey! That came out really nice!
Good job! :thumbsup:


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I got the board finished up today. I added a cherry handle and doweled/glued it in place. Then I soaked it with mineral oil for a while, which I will probably do some more. Oh, I added screw-on ribber feet on the bottom that I counterbored some shallow holes for with a Forstner bit.

Anyway, one Christmas present done, about five to go!

Bill


Ready for the meat cleaver!


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

Bill, that looks real nice I like the cherry handle. I hope that your other ones come out like this one, be careful. I was fortunate enough to find a great deal earlier this year on a Performax drum sander that has made it easy to make end grain CB's.


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