# Refinishing dining table



## efrisbee (Nov 11, 2011)

Hi,

I have refinished occasional tables, and other items items including rifle stocks and have always used Tung oil as the finish. Is this a good finish for a walnut table that gets used everyday? If anyone has any comments, or suggestions I would appreciate it.

Thanks


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I wouldn't use a tung oil on dining table. Not that I wouldn't use tung oil. But if you plan on using it everyday and want to protect it, I would use a good varnish. The varnish I used on my walnut dining table was, Behlen rock hard table top finish. I put 6 coats thinned out with Behlen table top varnish reducer. I'm happy with results the only thing it only comes in high gloss. So I rubbed it out with good 0000 steel wool and bison paste wax. You could use wool and water, rotten stone. There's a lot of different things you can use. Do a search. Here's mine before rub out.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

hi esifbee,

I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. We've only made two
walnut projects so far and one was a kitchen table in walnut, the other a bird cage.

We're not professional woodworkers...here is how we finish
a lot of stuff. 
On our table, first we seal the wood with BLO and wait the required days for drying, then stain (if your staining the wood)
I am now a fan of sanding sponges -- and sand between coats.

we used minwax gloss finish poly thinned with turp (about 3 parts poly to 1 part turp) we apply all our finishes with
a rag (mostly a demin rag, cut from old jeans) rub the finish on, wait 24 hours between coats. lightly sand before applying the next coat.
apply several coats, wait several days and then rub on paste wax. 

The table is in front of a sunny bay window so the back of the table
looks shiny, however the front of the table shows the soft luster
that can be achieved with gloss poly. when thinned, applied with
a rag and light sanding.

I did use a little stain on this table to get it to match the chairs.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

For a table used daily, pure Tung oil, or BLO will offer very little protection. Your finish regimen may depend on whether you can spray (compressor/gun), not a rattle can.

You might want to enhance the look of the grain by using a slightly thinned mix of BLO and mineral spirits. Or a stain, and then an oil. If you can spray, I would use a satin version of a waterbase polyurethane, lacquer, or conversion varnish. 

For an oil base film finish, I would use a wipe on version of a varnish or oil base polyurethane.












 







.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Poly on dining table with everyday use will chip and crack with hot plates. Not as durable as varnish, especially uv. Just my 2 cents.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Dominick said:


> Poly on dining table with everyday use will chip and crack with hot plates. Not as durable as varnish, especially uv. Just my 2 cents.


From your statement it sounds like you speak from the experience of doing numerous table tops. You use the word "poly", do you mean oil base or water base? If you mean oil base, oil base polyurethane is a "varnish", and by some specifications is more durable than a straight interior varnish. 

"UV' is not an issue with interior wood finishing in most cases. JMO.












 







.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> From your statement it sounds like you speak from the experience of doing numerous table tops. You use the word "poly", do you mean oil base or water base? If you mean oil base, oil base polyurethane is a "varnish", and by some specifications is more durable than a straight interior varnish.
> 
> "UV' is not an issue with interior wood finishing in most cases. JMO.
> 
> ...


Yea I do a lot of table tops that I do use poly ( min wax oil based) yes I understand that oil based poly is categorized as a varnish. But it's not going to give you the protection of a varnish like behlens rock hard table top finish. Why is uv not an issue with interior wood finish when it sit in the sun? Maybe I don't know,and have been this all wrong.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Dominick said:


> Yea I do a lot of table tops that I do use poly ( min wax oil based) yes I understand that oil based poly is categorized as a varnish. But it's not going to give you the protection of a varnish like behlens rock hard table top finish. Why is uv not an issue with interior wood finish when it sit in the sun? Maybe I don't know,and have been this all wrong.


UV, for the most part, is stopped by glass.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Oh I didn't realize glass wasn't clear.


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## efrisbee (Nov 11, 2011)

*Thanks to all that responded*

Thanks to all that responded with GREAT! advice. Due to time constraints (my wife wants it done before Christmas) I chose what was easily available locally. That is Minwax oil-based poly.

The reason that it will take so long is that the table has 2 large drop leaves. When closed the table sits 2. With both leaves up it comfortably seats 8. that requires me to do it in three parts. And I can only work at one part at a time.

I just put on the 2nd coat, and it is looking great.

I am looking forward to my next project, I am going to replace the composite stock on my Remington 700 with a fancy grade Caro Walnut stock.

Again... Thanks to all


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Glad we could help, hope it goes good. Send pics of table. We all like pics,it helps us understand what you want. Good luck.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

efrisbee said:


> Thanks to all that responded with GREAT! advice. Due to time constraints (my wife wants it done before Christmas) I chose what was easily available locally. That is Minwax oil-based poly.
> 
> The reason that it will take so long is that the table has 2 large drop leaves. When closed the table sits 2. With both leaves up it comfortably seats 8. that requires me to do it in three parts. And I can only work at one part at a time.
> 
> ...


are you ragging it on? we used minwax gloss oil based poly as well,
cut a little with terp and ragged on.
it's our kitchen table
so it gets a lot of use. I always use placemats though... I have bamboo placemats --
always keep two rolled up (for quick and easy access) behind the table top plant.
good luck...and don't be afraid to apply_ several_ light coats.


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## annie (Feb 17, 2012)

This process is fairly straightforward. If you have an antique pine dining table, you might want to have it evaluated.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Dominick said:


> I wouldn't use a tung oil on dining table. Not that I wouldn't use tung oil. But if you plan on using it everyday and want to protect it, I would use a good varnish. The varnish I used on my walnut dining table was, Behlen rock hard table top finish. I put 6 coats thinned out with Behlen table top varnish reducer. I'm happy with results the only thing it only comes in high gloss. So I rubbed it out with good 0000 steel wool and bison paste wax. You could use wool and water, rotten stone. There's a lot of different things you can use. Do a search. Here's mine before rub out.
> 
> View attachment 31585


Hey D, you can buy flatting agents [stir in type] to flatten the alkyd varnish ok? My first use of B's, Rock hard was in 65 on our [my dads] D table, the last time i saw it was in 81, looked as good as when it was done. high fives here!!


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