# Using Japan Drier in Oils



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

As I understand it, Japan Drier will accelerate the drying of oil based finishes. 

Does this include oils themselves?

Is there a downside to using it?

I’m assuming since it contains metallic dryers, it’s not food safe, right?


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Quickstep said:


> I’m assuming since it contains metallic dryers, it’s not food safe, right?


Sometimes called "Japanning" (a term I personally find not only offensive...but inaccurate to say the least.)

Siccatives do indeed (chemically) accelerate polymerization. Some would (rightfully in my opinion) suggest this is not the same as natural polymerization in any way and not the best method (aka best practice) of working with traditional oils.

Many fall into the class of toxic, and I know of none that are food safe or could be deemed healthy to be around...or work with...


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## WeebyWoodWorker (Jun 11, 2017)

DID SOMEONE SAY JAPAN!?!?

On a serious note, I have never heard of this before. However after looking it up it doesn't seem like the sort of thing that would be good for "Food Safe" objects. I wonder how well it actually works as speeding up finish drying is something an awful lot of people would want.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A general list of solvents and properties here*

This link show all the common solvents and thinners and what they do in a general sense. Click on the name to find out what it's used for. For example:

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/toluene

http://www.jasco-help.com/product/japan-drier1

Here's info on Japan Dryer:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_drying_agent


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## P89DC (Sep 25, 2017)

Jay C. White Cloud said:


> Sometimes called "Japanning" (a term I personally find not only offensive...but inaccurate to say the least.)...


Written in a sub-forum that appropriates the Finnish culture. And next time I see frozen Danish in the freezer section I'm gonna explode....


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

I use Japan Drier all the time in Minwax poly about 1/2 cap to two quarts on my gun racks. I have the same pint now for over three years. Why? I use it to give a quick skim coat and it helps to keep dust from forming on the surface. I also thin the poly about 5% with MS first. I apply one coat than let dry for 12 hours than lightly sand with 150 grit (this is on red oak) let dry for at least 24 hours than apply one more coat of Minwax poly. This gives the oak a very hard finish. I also apply Minwax stain prior to any ploy. I use foam brushes for the entire process. I also use a dry foam brush to smooth out any marks on all applications. This gives a spray on finish to the racks. This is on red oak 3/4" X 3 1/2".


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't really see the need in pushing a finish anymore. It used to be a oil based finish would take twelve hours or more before it got dry enough bugs wouldn't stick. Modern finishes already have a drying agent which gets there usually in a few hours.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> I don't really see the need in pushing a finish anymore. It used to be a oil based finish would take twelve hours or more before it got dry enough bugs wouldn't stick. Modern finishes already have a drying agent which gets there usually in a few hours.


Exactly...

I don't have a problem with siccatives in general...It's chemistry after all...

I don't think some modern finishes (not my world) could even work without them?

However, on the part of the OP, and other less experienced readers, there is simply no need to adulterate a traditional finish with these and many (most?) are quite toxic. That latter point is just for those that may not know this and are new to finishing...Each do as they please...

j


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