# Thinking of small Plane Collection, but don’t know what



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

So finally after years of admiring Plane collections in woodworking videos, I want a small collection. I’ve been looking at planes on eBay and I’m just blown away at the range of prices. Some are just so nice looking and are selling cheap while others are rusted and nasty with very high prices. I just can’t make any sense of it.

Anyway I’m looking for a small working collection and just don’t know what I need. I have a #6 corrugated plane and a 605 smooth plane. I also have a #3 plane that is cracked beyond repair, that I’d like to replace.

Any suggestions?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I've bought about 10 on Ebay*

Yah, they range all over the place, but overall I am happy with what I got for what I paid. All need the Evaporust soaking treatment and cleaned and sharpen up nicely. The wood totes and knobs were not always in the best shape. I got some nice rabbeting plane single and double bladed and some 4s, and 5s and a couple of 7's. That's all I need for now. I post a photo of the "collection"


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I’m thinking maybe I should have all of the same brand with different sizes if it’s going to be a collection. I have Stanley Bedrock so I guess I should look for those, but I don’t see any smaller sizes in bedrock.

There sure are a lot really nice looking Craftsman planes in a lot of sizes. They would not need restoring which I’m not interested in, but by the price of them it doesn’t look like much of an investment.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Reading "working" says to me you want a collection of good user vintage hand planes.

The potential list can be long, depending on your projects.

For bench planes, the No. 3 and No. 4 have almost the same length of sole, No. 3 - 8in and No. 4 - 9in. The No. 3 has 1 3/4in iron. The No. 4 has 2in iron.

The No. 5 has 14in sole, but shares the same iron as the No. 4, 2in.

The No. 6 and No. 7 share the same width of iron - 2 3/8in, but different sole lengths. No. 6 is 18in and No. 7 is 22 in.

The No. 8 is the longest plane Stanley produced and the widest iron, 2 5/8in wide and 24in long sole.

This gives you an idea on what parts may be interchangeable.

For Stanley - Bailey, I have 2 @ No. 4, 1 @ No. 5, 1 @ No. 6 and 1 @ No. 7 in the restoration queue with the intent to sell after restoration.

I also have what looks like a Craftsman No. 3 missing the lever cap.

I also have a No. 8 but I intend to keep this after restoration.

Beyond the bench planes, there are router planes, shoulder planes, scraper planes, block planes. The list can go on. I expect others will provide their own list.

Of my Stanley-Bailey vintage bench planes, I use the No. 4, 5, and 6 the most.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Thanks Dave, That's perfect all I know about planes is that they are different lengths. I'm going to start making a list of what they are used for like a "Jack Plane". I see them but don't know what they are used for.

Also I have a 605, but don't know the difference between it and and a #6. I bought a #6 but have to wait until it arrives before I can compare them.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

OMG Bill that's a large collection. I sure wasn't expecting that.:huh:


----------



## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

I started out with my grandpa's planes, which included a Stanley Two Tone #5 Jack Plane, a old Stanley Bailey #6 Fore Plane and a nearly unbranded (illegible on the iron) #5 1/2. So, very similar to what you have. To round out the set I bought a Sargent #4 smoother and Stanley Bailey #8 jointer on eBay and my sister gave me a second Stanley Sweetheart #4. 

Here is my order of operations with a rough board that ends up using all of them: 
-I plane down an edge of the board with my jointer plane so I can see what the face grain direction will be. 
-I remove the rough mill marks with a coarsely set #5 Jack Plane
-Once the high points are smooth I switch to the #6 Fore Plane and traverse the board until it is fairly smooth
-I true up the face with the #8 jointer plane
-I smooth out any tearout with the smoothing #4 planes
-Touch up with a scraper if needed
-Use a marking guage followed by a pencil in the line to delineate where to plane the other face to and then proceed as above
-cut the rough edge off with the table saw to have a squared board; I believe the pure old school method would be a rip handsaw and jointer again or panel gauge and scrub or jointer.

So really you just need two more planes if you want to do that: a smoother (3 or 4) and a jointer (7 or 8). If you just want users I wouldn't think you'll want to exclusively find Bedrocks, as they will cost more.


----------



## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I don't have any pictures of my planes together, but I'll list what I have/use them for as well as what I want.

SB #7 - flattening boards and edges.

SB #5 - it has a heavily cambered iron for rapid removal of wood (thicknessing). With that iron, it functions as a fore plane. I also have a regular iron for that plane, but don't use it much now that I have a #7.

SB #4 - smooth plane - final smoothing of boards after the #5 and #7.

SB #60 1/2 block plane - it is a low angle plane and is great for trimming end grain and difficult figured grain. I also use this on my shooting board for small pieces.

Stanley #92 shoulder plane. This is one of the recently manufactured Stanleys - trimming shoulders and rabbits.

Veritas #80 cabinet scraper. This is a recent acquisition and is very close to the SB #80 cabinet scraper. It is fast becoming one of my favorite tools.

Veritas Low angle smooth plane. This is a very new purchase and is not in my possession yet (tomorrow). I just bought this plane in Lee Valley's Cyber Monday sale. 

Other planes I want/need. Router plane, plow plane, rabbet plane and a #8 just to compare the use of it to my #7.


Side notes: The Stanley Bedrock planes were only the bench planes ranging in number from 602 - 608. The last number is equivalent to the regular Stanley Bailey numbered bench planes. I.E. your 605 is the same size/function as a Stanley Bailey #5. Typically the Bedrock planes command a higher price than the other SB planes - I've never used one so I can't comment on usability of them versus the "regular" Stanley Bailey bench planes.

I don't know if you have this link, this is the source that many go to for information on SB planes: http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

It has all the information and more than you could ever want on Stanley Bailey Planes.

One other note - when I use the abbreviation of SB it is for Stanley Bailey, not Stanly Bedrock.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> Also I have a 605, but don't know the difference between it and and a #6. I bought a #6 but have to wait until it arrives before I can compare them.


The Stanley Bedrock 605 is the Bedrock model equivalent of the Stanley-Bailey No. 5.

The Bedrock model had a frog adjustment mechanism decades before Stanley added it to the Bailey line. The Bedrock frog adjustment is very different to the design in the Stanley - Bailey.

A Bedrock 606 would be the equivalent of the Stanely - Bailey No. 6 you got from EBay.

Stanley got a higher price for the Bedrock model back in the day. Some of this was marketing, some may have been ability to keep its tuning better.

I love the lines of the "flat top" Bedrocks, like your 605. The normal humps of the side have a flat top. Reminds me of the Spier Infill planes of old. To my eyes the lines are more graceful. The earlier Bedrocks had the normal hump on the sides. Not sure when this changed to the flat top, but the first Bedrocks I saw were the flat tops.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Wow! Thanks everybody this is great stuff. I'm going to study on this for a while and then see what I can pick up on eBay.


----------



## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

A LOT of planes get moved through ebay. If you set your upper limit on a particular one, and look often, some deals can be had. The Bedrocks always go for more money. Once in a while, one will pop up with a good "Buy It Now" price. 

Personally, I like the Record planes, but have bought Stanleys too. For instance, I was looking for a Record 8, and was the 6th person to view a Stanley 8 at Buy it Now for 75 bucks that had almost 100% Japanning, and a full length blade, like it had never been used, so I hit the button right then.

All of mine are users, and I didn't have to fight rust. They all needed the bottoms flattened, but I'm set up to do that.



I never did figure out why they bothered to make a Bedrock 5 (605), but it would make a decent shooting board plane.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Thanks Tom, that's great eBay advice.
I don't want to spend a lot of money and I'm in no hurry so I can do just that. 

I've been looking for a week now and I don't remember even seeing Record. I've never heard of them before.


----------



## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Beware..you might get bitten. You will find one, fix it up and it works great, looks great. Maybe one more and I don't have one of those.
Good luck, you will enjoy yourself.


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

I admire those that pick one subset and stick with it. I started with some Bailey users. Having worked with wood all my life planes were not new to me. Also my wife loved to antique and I needed a way to make the time useful. I started buying some and restoring. First it was Baileys, then I found some nice old Sargents. I picked up a Shaw patent #15 for $5, so they became a passion. How about a cute little Ohio Tool. How could you not want more. Or the rare Ohio #7 with a frog adjuster. It just never stopped. Then a $5 gage and a $30 Siegley. 

Vintage Craftsman are good users, but don't currently hold much value. Stanley-Baileys can be great, easy to find and some are very valuable. Sargents are the same but information is harder to find on them. There are so many good brands, if you can pick just one and go with it, you'll keep the collection smaller. Best of all, have some fun!!


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

acowboy said:


> Beware..you might get bitten. You will find one, fix it up and it works great, looks great. Maybe one more and I don't have one of those.
> Good luck, you will enjoy yourself.


 Oh god I hope not, years ago I was fascinated with model trains and $10k later I’m asking what the hell was wrong with me. That’s why I’m trying to limit myself to just what I’ll be using.


----------



## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Sleeper said:


> Oh god I hope not, years ago I was fascinated with model trains and $10k later I’m asking what the hell was wrong with me. That’s why I’m trying to limit myself to just what I’ll be using.


Good luck on that one...:icon_smile:
Anyways, have fun, post some pics on some of your progress, think we all like to see a good clean up or restore.


----------



## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

When I started with planes ( fairly recently ) I didn't have any sort of plan. Even though they are cheap on ebay I soon realized I couldn't get them all. So I narrowed it to Stanley's and further narrowed it to Stanley bench planes. Then I decided that I would get even more picky and narrowed it to Stanley bench planes with keyhole caps. (pre 1933) I use sawmill lumber when I can and so I also have a #40 scrub plane that takes the cupped edges and high spots down quickly. Then I cheat and run it through my 734. As far as users the first one you might want to pick up is a 5. Often called the best all around plane for usefulness. ebay is littered with 5's if you are patient you will find one for a good price. This is just my opinion. I don't think this is going to run you as much as your trains did....:icon_smile:......have fun, here is a picture of a #5 I got off ebay for $4.00.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

adot45 said:


> When I started with planes ( fairly recently ) I didn't have any sort of plan. Even though they are cheap on ebay I soon realized I couldn't get them all. So I narrowed it to Stanley's and further narrowed it to Stanley bench planes. Then I decided that I would get even more picky and narrowed it to Stanley bench planes with keyhole caps. (pre 1933) I use sawmill lumber when I can and so I also have a #40 scrub plane that takes the cupped edges and high spots down quickly. Then I cheat and run it through my 734. As far as users the first one you might want to pick up is a 5. Often called the best all around plane for usefulness. ebay is littered with 5's if you are patient you will find one for a good price. This is just my opinion. I don't think this is going to run you as much as your trains did....:icon_smile:......have fun, here is a picture of a #5 I got off ebay for $4.00.


OMG, are you kidding me, I just can't believe it. That is beautiful.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

A good number of hand plane restorations on the forum.

These two are perhaps my best examples of before and after.

I purchased both from a local flea market for not much money.

Stanley No. 5
Before.










After. I stripped and repainted, but the original knob and tote.










A Sargent 408, equivalent to a Stanley No. 3.

Before.









After. In this case original paint, but I replaced the knob and the tote.









I still have these planes. Hard to let these go.

If you are interested in the restoration, this was the thread.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/latest-rust-bucket-planes-46494/


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

here are some before and after
https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/some-before-and-after-pictures/
https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/some-before-and-after-pictures-my-restores-page-2/
https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/09/17/page-3-some-before-and-after-pictures-my-restores/


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I just don't understand how you can clean them up like that. I've tried to clean tools up before, but I've never even came close to what you guys are doing.

I just bought this Stanley #5 plane and now I wondering if I can get it to look like the planes I've seen here. After I bought it another one that looks 10 times newer popped up for less money, but I guess I'm stuck with this now.:smile:


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> I just don't understand how you can clean them up like that. I've tried to clean tools up before, but I've never even came close to what you guys are doing.
> 
> I just bought this Stanley #5 plane and now I wondering if I can get it to look like the planes I've seen here. After I bought it another one that looks 10 times newer popped up for less money, but I guess I'm stuck with this now.:smile:


here is how

https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/09/17/page-3-some-before-and-after-pictures-my-restores/


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> I just don't understand how you can clean them up like that. I've tried to clean tools up before, but I've never even came close to what you guys are doing.
> 
> I just bought this Stanley #5 plane and now I wondering if I can get it to look like the planes I've seen here. After I bought it another one that looks 10 times newer popped up for less money, but I guess I'm stuck with this now.:smile:


I feel your No. 5 would clean up very well.

Not easy to tell from any picture how good the paint is, but I have restored a few which looked grimy, like my Sargent, but once you start to clean off the grime and dirt, the old beauty shines through.

Send this plane to me and I expect it will look a lot different.

I am seeing superficial rust/oxidation layer. To be expected for the age. This cleans up easily.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Sleeper said:


> I just don't understand how you can clean them up like that. I've tried to clean tools up before, but I've never even came close to what you guys are doing. .:smile:


I use Evapo Rust, a liquid you can get from Harbor Freight and other sources. You soak the plane bodies and iron overnight and "presto" it looks almost like new, slightly darker.

http://www.always-free-shipping.com...rabber&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=evapo-rust

Another thing I do use use a wire brush in a bench grinder for polishing the brass and cleaning up other parts.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> I use Evapo Rust, a liquid you can get from Harbor Freight and other sources. You soak the plane bodies and iron overnight and "presto" it looks almost like new, slightly darker..


 I have some of that Evapo Rust. I bought last summer trying to restore an old Swamp cooler. I ended up tossing the swamp cooler after a week of trying to clean it up, but I don’t remember any results like I’ve seen here. :smile:










I think maybe Saturday I’ll give it a tray on my 605 and see what happens.


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> I think maybe Saturday I’ll give it a tray on my 605 and see what happens.


Your going to practice on a bedrock?


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Rust removal products like Evapo-Rust and oxalic acid work very well.

They do need exposed rust. So if the metal parts have grime or grease, this will prevent the rust removal product from being able to attack the rust.

I suggest you clean up the parts first with a cleaning product like Fast Orange with Pumice. Even Dawn is better than nothing.

I then will use some wet-dry paper to see what can be easily removed. 

After the initial cleaning I will put in Evapo-Rust or oxalic acid.

The Evapo-Rust will leave a dark colour on the metal. You will need to use some fine grit wet-dry paper to remove this film.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

timetestedtools said:


> Your going to practice on a bedrock?


Is that bad? 

Well I have this cracked #3 I was trying to clean up last year that I could practice on but it seems like such a waste. I was using a wire brush wheel when I found this crack. You can see where I slipped and got a little bit of the knob.


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> Is that bad?
> 
> Well I have this cracked #3 I was trying to clean up last year that I could practice on but it seems like such a waste. I was using a wire brush wheel when I found this crack.


 Ha, just a bad joke. You really can't hurt it really. Go for it. Post the progress.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> Is that bad?
> 
> Well I have this cracked #3 I was trying to clean up last year that I could practice on but it seems like such a waste. I was using a wire brush wheel when I found this crack.


I think TimeTestedTools was inferring that a Bedrock has higher value than a normal Stanley-Bailey, hence not a good item for "practice", although Evapo-Rust should not damage the components.

So many planes state "crack" when they really ought to say "break".

A crack in my mind would not go all the way through. I expect this goes all the way through.

I purchased a No. 5 on EBay stated as having a "crack". I purchased for the parts expecting the crack was in fact a break. Sure enough, I could snap the front off if I wanted to do so.

I still have the casting. The other parts were used in different restorations.

The No. 3 is not worth spending any more time on restoration or cleanup.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

The Bedrock is all I got right now until the other ones I just bought on eBay show up. I was really hoping the # 6 would be here by now. I bought about 10 train cars and locomotives from eBay and they all showed up already. I guess the plane takes a little long because it weighs more.


----------



## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Sleeper said:


> The Bedrock is all I got right now until the other ones I just bought on eBay show up. I was really hoping the # 6 would be here by now. I bought about 10 train cars and locomotives from eBay and they all showed up already. I guess the plane takes a little long because it weighs more.


Trains are known for tight schedules..
Kidding aside, adot45 uses Evapo Rust alot with no ill affects to the japanning, I myself use electrolysis or just plain ol lemon juice.
Lemon juice takes a little longer but works real well also.
If the japanning is affected then rust more likely was under it.
Electrolysis is fast a pretty much inexpensive, might try it out on your #3.
Some pics of some of my planes.
Halfway done with the Defiance and Shelton


----------



## Camden (Oct 22, 2013)

I've been collecting planes for a while, and this is my method for collection(emphasis on "my"):
I don't allow myself ebay purchases for planes; my son has to go to college at some point. And even if he doesn't, he likely wouldn't appreciate me annexing his room for surplus plane and brace storage.

I make a list of what I'm looking for, broken down by want vs. need, and listed in order of priority.

I try not to purchase any common planes with damage beyond surface rust. If it's really rare or really old, and the price is right, I don't mind repairing(gives me an excuse to hunt for more planes for parts).

I really, really enjoy cleaning up old planes, metal or wood. My method for surface rust is a bit more labor intensive than the evapo-rust, but for me it's meditative. I start by degreasing the raw iron surfaces with an industrial kitchen degreaser and 0000 steel wool. Examine japanning or enamel or paint, and proceed to do the same thing(provided there is a consistent surface). If there is a lot of chipping, I may end up soaking, rinsing, and rubbing down with an old shoe-shine rag. For surface rust, I like WD-40 and steel wool. If it's stubborn(most times), then 120-150 grit usually works out. Just clamp down in my benches tail vice(non-marring) and work the sanding with the existing machine marks. Always try to finish with a finer grit for shine. Knobs and handles, I try to keep original, though I won't tolerate a cracked handle. I have severe OCD, so wood filler or epoxy ain't gonna cut it. Knobs, I just turn, handles, I cut out with a jigsaw or bandsaw, whittle with my Opinel cheese knife, and hand sand to shape. It's a lot of work, but like I said, this stuff keeps me from blooping out. 

Having said that, I have a lot of wall hangers that end up just getting cleaned up a little and going on display somewhere in the apt. Last night, I aquired an old Walker-Turner jointer, and the fella gave me an Ohio Tool company wooden block plane. It's got the original iron, but the wooden box is rough. Probably give it a period refinish, clean up the iron a bit, and put it in a shadow box, as I really like the lines. 

Yeah, this stuff is addictive. Watch out for old braces and hand drills. If you think planes are catchy...


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I wish I would have had a made a list of planes before I started buying. I guess I probably was lucky that I was overbid on a couple of planes on eBay. I’m still trying to figure it all out and I can see how this can be addicting. 

I’ve been reading up japanning because I didn’t know what it was and I had NO idea of what that was all about. I was going to remove all of that because I thought it was “just” paint. Then I started looking into how to replace it and wow, I may have to leave that alone.

The one thing I want is a draw plane and I had one because I remember how impressed I was the first time I used it. I haven’t seen it in at least 15 years and I have looked for it a couple of times. Actually I’m missing a couple of old planes that belonged to my dad and keep hoping that I’ll come across a box full of stuff that I used to have.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

trc65 said:


> Side notes: The Stanley Bedrock planes were only the bench planes ranging in number from 602 - 608. The last number is equivalent to the regular Stanley Bailey numbered bench planes. I.E. your 605 is the same size/function as a Stanley Bailey #5. Typically the Bedrock planes command a higher price than the other SB planes - I've never used one so I can't comment on usability of them versus the "regular" Stanley Bailey bench planes.





Dave Paine said:


> The Stanley Bedrock 605 is the Bedrock model equivalent of the Stanley-Bailey No. 5.


I don't know why this didn't set in before I bought the #5, but even after reading it twice, I still didn't get it. :wallbash::blush:

So now that I know I actually have two #5s, I’m a little bummed out. For some reason it just didn’t register in my head because I was thinking I had 2 #6s and justified it by having one corrugated and one not. I had a hard workday that day working up in high elevations in 17 deg temps and just wasn’t thinking too clearly when I got home. The thing that bothers me the most is the shipping costs I paid. I wish I could find the planes I want from one seller and combine shipping.

Now I’m thinking about buying a #4, #7 and a Rabbit plane. I had a rabbit plane once along with about 6 or 7 other specialty plans for moldings and sold them all in a box for $50 out of shear ignorance. 

I’m also thinking of maybe a block plane, but I don’t know what to get. I had one years ago and it was a real piece of crap. I don’t know if it was because it was just dull or I just didn’t know how to use it, but I ended up buying Surform Pocket Plane instead. it worked for what I was doing and I never used it again because it got dull real fast.


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

having 2 #5s isn't so bad. Sharpen them different. One with a very aggressive camber and one with a slight camber or keep one square like a smoother. You'll find all kinds of use for either configuration.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

timetestedtools said:


> having 2 #5s isn't so bad. Sharpen the different. One with a very aggressive camber and one with a slight camber or keep one square like a smoother. You'll find all kinds of use for either configuration.


 :huh:Woo what a minute! I never heard of this before. Camber and configurations? I’ve heard of camber on car wheel alignment, but planes, OMG I guess I have a lot more to learn. :laughing:


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> Now I’m thinking about buying a #4, #7 and a Rabbit plane.


I mentioned in my post #4 that I had planes in the restoration queue with intent to eventually sell. You did not respond so I presumed not interested.

I have 2 @ No. 4 and a No. 7.

My local flea market may have a Stanely 220 and or a 9 1/2 block plane. I normally do not look for block planes. I have a 9 1/2 and a Veritas Low Angle block plane.

I know the frustration of EBay shipping. Prices are all over the map.


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

And if Dave doesn't have it, check out my blog. My inventory is getting low because of the time of year, but spring it'll be back up.

As for the multiples. I have multiples of most common sizes. First, because I have a bit of a sickness, and second, you'll want different configurations. #3, #4 and #5 are most common to have 2 or 3, along with whatever your choice of jointer (#7 or #8) is or sometimes one of each, but still in a different configuration.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> I mentioned in my post #4 that I had planes in the restoration queue with intent to eventually sell. You did not respond so I presumed not interested.
> 
> I have 2 @ No. 4 and a No. 7.


Oh yes I am interested, sorry I didn't didn't understand. What can I say its been a bad week. :smile:
PM me with a price and I'll see if its in my budget.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

*How far is too much to take apart*

I dissembled my No 605 to start cleaning and I don’t think I’ll need to soak it because it’s cleaning up pretty good with just WD40. All I have left is the frog but I’m hesitant to remove the drift pins because way back in my automotive days they made us replace them if we removed them.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Looks good. WD-40 does a good job at cleaning. :thumbsup:

I only remove the pin for the Y adjustment lever if I am repainting. I do not try and remove the rivet for the lateral adjustment lever.

I have had a couple of lateral adjustment levers where the rivet was loose and I had to peen over.


----------



## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Sleeper,
Here is a link of various images of different planes and makers
http://www.flickr.com/photos/-snapshot-/7261393280/
Some real nice planes and tool images.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

acowboy said:


> Sleeper,
> Here is a link of various images of different planes and makers
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/-snapshot-/7261393280/
> Some real nice planes and tool images.


 Thanks those are really cool photos. I wish there were some photos of mine because then I would print them to past on my future plane rack. :smile:

I wanted to buy a Stanley No 378 Rabbet Plane on eBay and was searching for information on it to see if it had all the parts and discovered a brand new one at Home Depot in the box for $55. I had no idea they were still making them. :no:

I did make one big mistake while looking at Stanley Rabbit planes and I accidently mistook a Sargent #49 Rabbet Plane for a Stanley. A Sargent popped up and the price was right. I didn’t notice it at the time and I bid on it. And then I was hoping that I would be outbid after realizing it which didn’t happen so I ended up with it. :wallbash:

Now that I know a little about rabbit planes I also know that it is missing the depth gauge and I don’t know what else. Maybe I can prefab a depth gauge. :blink:

I also saw a shiny new No 5 Bailey Bench Plane for $61 at Home Depot and I’ve seen them on eBay used and rusty for well over that. What the hell!  Well I just paid $25 plus shipping, but it needs cleaning and hopefully no missing parts so I guess I’m still OK. :shifty:


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

the vintage is a far better plane than the new one at home depot. I'd recommend you avoid the new Stanleys.

And the Sargents are well made as well. You won't be unhappy with it.


----------



## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

> Now that I know a little about rabbit planes I also know that it is missing the depth gauge and I don’t know what else. Maybe I can prefab a depth gauge. :blink:


I believe a Stanley depth gauge will work and almost be a exact duplicate of the Sargent.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

acowboy said:


> I believe a Stanley depth gauge will work and almost be a exact duplicate of the Sargent.


Well thats great news because I think I came across one yesterday on eBay while looking for something else.


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

the depth gauge may work, but the Stanley will probably have different threads for the retainer screw.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I wish I would have watched this video before I started buying planes. The guy makes a lot of sense to me for just haveing a working collection of planes.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

*Well I was not expecting this*

I don't know anything about this Stanley No. 4, but it looks brand new and made in England. :smile:
I don't know if that's good or bad, but the price was definitely right after my last purchase and its all there. :thumbsup:


----------



## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

That's a sharp looking plane! I don't ever think I've seen a iron, chip breaker and lever cap so new looking on a used plane.


----------



## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

nice looking plane.


----------



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I think its brand new and never been used so for $27, I’m very happy with it because I came close to just buying a new one from Home Depot anyway.


----------

