# Love minwax spray on polyurethane for durability, love linseed oil for look



## taiden (Jul 30, 2012)

Hey all,

I make wooden headphone accessories, and as of now I use minwax spray on polyurethane to give my products a very tough finish.

The problem is, just using the poly on bare wood doesn't give a very interesting finish. Linseed oil in my opinion really shows off the wood.

I need something that is a compromise between the two. The thing I like about the poly is once it dries, it has zero odor. Since these are 6 inches away from your nose at all times, this is pretty important.

I use honduran mahogany 99% of the time.

Any thoughts are much appreciated.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Try getting the same polyurethane in a quart and add linseed oil and mineral spirits (by the batch) to use as your first coat. I would mix the amount you intend to use because it will have a shorter shelf life after mixing. Then you can finish with the rattle can.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Minwax, as well as almost all other oil based poly varnish manufacturers, use linseed oil as the drying oil in their product. You could test adding a small amount of linseed oil and wiping it on. If effect, you are making an oil/varnish or danish oil product. Adding the linseed oil will slow up the drying and curing of the finish by quite a bit.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

You don't need a compromise between the two, use both of them. Give them a coat of BLO and when dry finish with the spray on poly. I'd thin the BLO with 25-50% mineral spirits.


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## taiden (Jul 30, 2012)

Thanks all for the quick replies. I had tried BLO under poly previously, and found that there were some dark splotchy parts. The Minwax spray on poly doesn't specify if it's water or oil based. Should I assume oil based?

I like the Minwax spray on because there is no need to clean brushes, thin, etc. Recoat times are FAST. I can do 4 pairs of headphone cups to a polished finish in an afternoon, allowing full cure while stocked or even during shipping if need be. :yes:

I will try BLO again. The piece I had tried on before had multiple coats of BLO, left to cure about a week, and then quickly wiped off before poly. I suppose some BLO could have risen to the surface like it tends to do.

Do you all suggest one light wipe on coat of BLO, quick wipe off, then poly? I know it's not rocket science but there are always little nuances that give the best result.

Thanks :smile:


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I don't think that multiple coats of BLO will do anything other than darken the wood. I usually apply BLO with 400-600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and sand it into a slurry. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes and wipe off the excess. Let it dry for 24-48 hours or so and then apply poly. Sanding the BLO will fill some of the pores and leave an incredibly smooth surface. 

I don't use spray poly so I don't know the answer but I'd assume it was oil based unless it said otherwise on the can. Do a quick search for Minwax's website and it should tell you all you need to know about what you are using.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

The way to apply BLO is to wipe on a coat, let it set for 15-20 minutes and then wipe it as dry as you can. Then let it fully dry for 24 hours (48 is better). You may get some bleed back on larger pored woods like oak and mahogany. Just keep wiping it off until it stops bleeding back. Then you can apply your spray poly clear coat fully following the directions on the can. If the product you are using says Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane, you are using an oil based poly varnish. If you are using a product that says "Polycrylic", you are using a waterborne acrylic product.


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## bentwood (Jan 26, 2012)

trc65 said:


> I don't think that multiple coats of BLO will do anything other than darken the wood. I usually apply BLO with 400-600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and sand it into a slurry. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes and wipe off the excess. Let it dry for 24-48 hours or so and then apply poly. Sanding the BLO will fill some of the pores and leave an incredibly smooth surface.
> 
> I don't use spray poly so I don't know the answer but I'd assume it was oil based unless it said otherwise on the can. Do a quick search for Minwax's website and it should tell you all you need to know about what you are using.


^ ^
What he said + 1


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## taiden (Jul 30, 2012)

Thanks guys, I'm going to give that a go on a test piece. I'll post up the comparison when it's time, probably a week or so.

And it is fast dry minwax poly, so it looks like it's oil based. :thumbsup:

Can I do less coats of poly since the linseed oil somewhat seals the wood? I typically do three medium coats of poly, then sand and burnish.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I wouldn't skimp on the poly coats. Your headphones are going to be in contact with sweat and body oils and I would want the protection of the poly. BLO really won't give you that protection.


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## taiden (Jul 30, 2012)

Alright, so I tried BLO under poly a few times and it's just not working out for me. I lightly oil sand with 400 grit and BLO, then wipe. Let sit 8 hours, wipe dry. Let sit overnight, no bleeds... wipe dry again anyway. Light coating of poly, it gets wet FAST and takes forever to dry. Forever as in a week instead of a few hours like when I use straight poly.

I need to really step up my finishing game, and maybe it's time to look at things other than poly. I've heard people get good results with lacquer? Parts are small so I could probably get a small spray gun (or airbrush?) and start mixing my own.

I need more grain contrast without adding too much luster.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

It sounds like the BLO isn't fully dry when you apply the poly. It can easily take 2 days (or more) for it to dry enough without interfering with the drying of the poly. I just did the same thing. Applied BLO, waited 24 hours, applied poly - took > 24 hours for the poly to dry.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

your parts are so small. forget the spray and use a danish oil/wipping varnish. simple and will provide plenty of protection for what they are. the trick to blo is a little japan dryer. i make my own oil with turp-blo-pine tar-japan dryer. all natural, and three coats with over night between each and done


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## taiden (Jul 30, 2012)

Can danish oil be polished to a mirror finish? Is it a hard finish? I should really try some. The poly I can buff with a paper towel (sounds crazy, I know), and it buffs to a near mirror without much trouble.

I like how with the poly I can drop my workpiece on a hardwood floor and it doesn't really show any marks.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

taiden said:


> Can danish oil be polished to a mirror finish? Is it a hard finish? I should really try some. The poly I can buff with a paper towel (sounds crazy, I know), and it buffs to a near mirror without much trouble.
> 
> I like how with the poly I can drop my workpiece on a hardwood floor and it doesn't really show any marks.


actually if you drop and it hits on an edge any film finish will dent/chip.
try this stuff. http://www.deftfinishes.com/trade/products/deftoil-danish-oil-finish

you dont have to mix
out of all the danish oils ive used this one will give you a glossy finish. 3 coats and buff away with a t rag


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## taiden (Jul 30, 2012)

Thanks Jack I'll give that a go


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