# Suggestions for a new blade for my Jet Tablesaw?



## howarddavidp (Jun 12, 2012)

Hello,

My saw(JWTS-10JF) came with what seems like a nice 40 T blade. However, I am considering getting a Freud 50 T combo blade with the standard kerf. (LU84M011) Here is the WC link:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/20...lade-10-x-58-bore-x-50-tooth-combination.aspx

I am also considering the thin kerf version, then make my own insert:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/20...58-bore-x-50-tooth-combination-thin-kerf.aspx

So, 1/2 the reason I am looking at a new blade is to get the glue special WC is running this month, and the other part is that I would get a better cut from my saw. Not that the existing cut is bad, but it is more of a cross cut blade then a ripper. The combo I like b/c I don't have to change the blade, I can be lazy and leave that on most of the time.

My 3rd option is to gte a rip blade:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/20...ipping-saw-blade-10-x-58-bore-x-30-tooth.aspx

I like the idea of the Glue Line ripping blade, so I can cut and glue up right away w/o any prep work.

So, I ask the advice of the board, not sure which to get. My budget is around $70, so this proices out the Forrest WW2.

Dave


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

You don't need a blade that says "Glue Line" rip, to get glue ready cuts...that's sort of a marketing phrase. Many of the better 30T to 80T blades will provide a glue ready edge right off the saw if the board is flat and straight. The glue line rip blades (GLR) are recommended for 1" material or less....they work well in that limited range, but aren't suggested for thicker materials and don't crosscut well, so you still need a bulk rip blade for thicker stock and a crosscut blade for crosscuts. 

A 1/8" full kerf blade is 33% wider than a 3/32" thin kerf blade. A good quality TK blade will be easier for your motor to spin, and can help extend it's working life if you cut a lot of thick or dense material. 

The Freud LU84 is a good blade. The LU83 is their thin kerf version of it. The Freud Diablo line offers similar quality with smaller carbide for less money....they're affordable enough that you could buy a separate 24T rip blade and a 60T or 80T crosscut blade. The 50T ATB/R blades in general are easy to use and do a good job of many tasks, but note that they excel at none. The Infinity Combomax (010-050/010-150) are the best of this type of blade that I've used, and is what I'd get if I were buying an ATB/R type blade. 

Tips for picking saw blades


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I'm a big fan of the freud Diablo series*

I have them all over the shop, ripping blade 24 Teethfor 2" thick stock, in the RAS 60 Teeth, 40 tooth as a general purpose, but a whole lot of ripping of 1" thick stock. The 40 tooth has seen a few thousand feet of stock and still performs well....$30.00 at Home Depot. :blink::thumbsup: bill


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I'm a huge fan of the thin kerf glue line rip. that Freud blade is one of my favorite. I'd vote for that purchase


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## haugerm (Nov 19, 2009)

The Freud Fusion is a top of the line general purpose blade, and it's just inside your budget at $68 on Amazon. I've used one for a couple years for both rips and cross cuts, and I couldn't be happier with the quality of the cut. 

Amazon.com: Freud Fusion 10" x 40T x 5/8" Thin Kerf Saw Blade: Home Improvement

--Matt


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

haugerm said:


> The Freud Fusion is a top of the line general purpose blade, and it's just inside your budget at $68 on Amazon. I've used one for a couple years for both rips and cross cuts, and I couldn't be happier with the quality of the cut.
> 
> Amazon.com: Freud Fusion 10" x 40T x 5/8" Thin Kerf Saw Blade: Home Improvement
> 
> --Matt


Dave, if you're still following this thread, I'd have to agree with Matt. The Fusion simply leaves a cleaner cut than the LU83 or LU84. The 50T ATB/R blades tend to be a little less finicky about setup, but the blades like the Fusion and Infinity Super General excel in sheet goods, fine crosscuts, and polished edges in rip cuts up to ~ 1-1/2". It's a pretty revolutionary blade and $68 for the Fusion is a really good price. :thumbsup: 

(you can always buy glue separately....a good blade is more important to your TS setup IMO).


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Assuming that you used the manual to set up the saw AND algned the splitter / riving knife / whatever witth the blade, USE THE SAME KERF THICKNESS BLADE THAT YOU ALIGNED THE SAW WITH.


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## howarddavidp (Jun 12, 2012)

*Thanks for input*

Hello,

My saw came with a nice 40 tooth general blade already, which works well, but not perfect.

I wound up getting the 80 T ultimate cutoff thin kerf version, which works well for when I need to crosscut or work with smaller stock than tends to tear out.

If I get a replacement "General Use" blade, I will most likely get the Fusion.

What I am dissapointed with is my Freud 6" Dial-dado, the SD606. The cut is fine, but you lose a lot of clearance because of the dial, so you are limited in how high you can crank it up. I had to modify my insert to accomidate the dial. (easy because I made the insert out of wood, if I had a metal insert I would have had issues. My HF dado at 25% the cost of the Freud works better, same cut and I have to mess with shims (I bought the mag ones from Forrest). The dial is nice and is very acurate (I mean the number of clicks lines up with the chart perfectly for me), but the limits are disappointing. I suppose for regualr cuts it is OK, but I use my screw advance jig and this limits how deep I can go, as would any jig and this blade.

Thanks again for the advice, next blade will be the fusion.

David


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## 65BAJA (May 27, 2012)

howarddavidp said:


> Hello,
> 
> My saw came with a nice 40 tooth general blade already, which works well, but not perfect.
> 
> ...


I was considering the 6" dado for my Makita 8 1/4" saw. How deep of a dado can you make before the dial becomes an issue?


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## howarddavidp (Jun 12, 2012)

I will measure it tonight, but not very far, maybe 1" tops, or less. Look for my update tomorrow. IT will do 3/4", I cut those, but it was close at that depth, and I had to cutout my homemade insert to do 3/4".

David


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## howarddavidp (Jun 12, 2012)

Hello,

Thanks for the input thus far, it has been right on with what I have needed.

So now, I need to decide on a General purpose blade. I have narrowed it down to either the Freud Fusion or the Forrest WW2, in full kerf versions. For rips and crosscuts in bulk, I have dedicated blades for each (rips is the Freud Glue Line, crosscuts in the Freud Ult cutoff 80T).

I would prefer a blade with long life that will stay sharp for as long as possible, and also have a nice finish in the cut area. For price, with my coupons, I can get the prices within $20 of each other (Woodcraft has a sale coming to get the WW2 for under $90).

Thanks in advance for your input, this is the final blade to complete my set.
Dave


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## mattk8715 (Jan 22, 2010)

Combo blades are a whole different discussion, but Tenryu makes awesome blades regardless. Consider this one Amazon.com: Tenryu GM-25540 10" 40t combo gold medal bl: Home Improvement


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Dave - There's never a free lunch in saw blades....for every positive in a blade's design, there's a negative somewhere. The Fusion features a Hi-ATB with a steeper top bevel than standard ATB grinds, which gives it less tearout than other grinds if all else is equal....that's the positive....the negative of that same feature is that those pointy tips tend to wear faster than the tips of a standard ATB grind. So if long wear is high on your priority list, the WWII or some other similar 40T GP blade with a standard ATB grind will wear better....comparable blades are the Ridge Carbide TS2000 and the Tenryu Gold Medal. The WWII and TS2000 are made in the USA.

Food for thought....since you still don't have a rip blade intended for rips over 1", I'd consider getting the WWII 30T version. It cuts nearly as cleanly as the 40T, still crosscuts reasonably well, and will rip cleanly and more efficiently in 2"+ materials.


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