# Lightweight Spackle



## pdxrealtor (Mar 8, 2014)

I've tried a couple different brands now and both seem to shrink. 

I like how easy it is to knock down the extra with a sanding sponge. 

Am I applying it wrong or is there simply better choices?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I like using Synkoloid's spackle. 
Amazon.com: Synkoloid Co. 1008 Interior Spackling Paste: Home Improvement









 








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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Vinyl spacke normally sands easier than drywall mud. I normally use Dap Dry Dex. It goes on on pink and when it's dry enough to sand turns white.


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## pdxrealtor (Mar 8, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> Vinyl spacke normally sands easier than drywall mud. I normally use Dap Dry Dex. It goes on on pink and when it's dry enough to sand turns white.



I'm using a Dap product, patch and paint. 

I put two coats of a black rustoleum brand primer on it, and am on my third coat of acrylinamel Miller paint and it's still bleeding through. 

The bleeding through are the places patched and sanded that actually did not shrink.

On top of that, in other spots, the spackle shrunk and also is bleeding through. 

Last time I used this product on a similar project/materials I sprayed coats of primer until the spackle quit bleeding through. 

Then this time I read the spackle container and it made me think there was no need to spray so much primer. 

I'm lost...... and I'm new to woodworking.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

pdxrealtor said:


> I'm using a Dap product, patch and paint.
> 
> I put two coats of a black rustoleum brand primer on it, and am on my third coat of acrylinamel Miller paint and it's still bleeding through.
> 
> ...


Which primer are you useing, aerosol or canned. The aerosol type has retarders in it that greatly extend the drying time. It's possible you didn't allow it to dry long enough. I think the real problem you are having though is sometimes when you prime over a spackle or grain filler the solvents make the filler swell up. Then you think it's dry and sand it and put another coat on and it looks great until the next day when the filler shrinks and shows the spot again. When I'm working with grain fillers or spackle I only do between the coats sanding in the morning after the finish has dried overnight. Then I put what ever coats I want on it during that day and wait until the next morning to procede.


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## pdxrealtor (Mar 8, 2014)

I'm using a spray can, so aerosol. It is this product here: http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-ultra-cover-2x/primer

My process was to fill the screw head holes (I sunk them 1/2 way into the MDF) with the Dap. 
Let it dry overnight.
Run a 220 sponge sand pad over it, lightly, just to knock down the extra. 
Prime
Lightly sand entire surface smooth

Attempt to apply the Miller acrynamel, which promptly shows the spackle has shrunk in spots but not in others. 

That's another problem in itself. It laid down great on the mill work in my room, but now it's not laying down so great. So I added some water and mixed it well with a drill mixer and it's not looking much better after another application. 

Maybe the lightweight spackle isn't the best for filling in holes on cabinet work.?. 

A few months back I used some to put between a couple joints on a basement foundation ledge flat board topping and it to this day is still soft.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

pdxrealtor said:


> I'm using a spray can, so aerosol. It is this product here: http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-ultra-cover-2x/primer
> 
> My process was to fill the screw head holes (I sunk them 1/2 way into the MDF) with the Dap.
> Let it dry overnight.
> ...


It sounds like the vinyl spackle has gone bad. Once the can has been opened it doesn't have a very long shelf life. 

It doesn't sand near as easy but you would have better luck on larger holes to fill with bondo. spackle works better for small cracks and nail holes.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I use some Dap products, but not their spackle. 








 







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## pdxrealtor (Mar 8, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> It sounds like the vinyl spackle has gone bad. Once the can has been opened it doesn't have a very long shelf life.
> 
> It doesn't sand near as easy but you would have better luck on larger holes to fill with bondo. spackle works better for small cracks and nail holes.


Thanks for the tip. How does bondo compare to a product like Elmer's wood putty? 



cabinetman said:


> I use some Dap products, but not their spackle.
> 
> What would you recommend?
> 
> ...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

pdxrealtor said:


> What would you recommend?


See post #2.








 








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## pdxrealtor (Mar 8, 2014)

^^ lol.... oops. 

Thanks!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

pdxrealtor said:


> Thanks for the tip. How does bondo compare to a product like Elmer's wood putty?


Bondo is an automotive fiberglass filler. It is mostly used to level improfections in auto body repairs. What makes it nice is you can fill a hole the size of a golf ball and have it ready to paint in less than a half. I sometimes also use it for stain grade by adding a universal color tint to it before adding the hardener. The Elmers wood filler air dries instead of having a hardener. On deep repairs you have to apply it a little at a time in layers or it would never dry in the center. Both sand about the same.


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## pdxrealtor (Mar 8, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> Bondo is an automotive fiberglass filler. It is mostly used to level improfections in auto body repairs. What makes it nice is you can fill a hole the size of a golf ball and have it ready to paint in less than a half. I sometimes also use it for stain grade by adding a universal color tint to it before adding the hardener. The Elmers wood filler air dries instead of having a hardener. On deep repairs you have to apply it a little at a time in layers or it would never dry in the center. Both sand about the same.



Oh - I was thinking Bondo was a one part filler and resin you use with fiberglass was a different product. 

Sounds like you're saying the resin part of fiberglass work is the Bondo. I can do some research on that. Thanks. 

I wanted to run something by you guys re: the spackle. 
*
I've been thinking about this spackle thing. *

I'm applying the spackle to bare MDF and wonder if the spackle is sealing the MDF in the spots applied, so that the MDF is not absorbing the primer as it does over the rest of surface. 

Because, those spackle spots bleed through multiple layers of primer and multiple layers of two different kinds of paint (a light truck bed liner and a Miller Acrinamel). Eventually with enough of either paint the bleed through _*will *_disappear. 

None the less. Could it be the MDF and the order of application I'm using? 

Maybe I should be applying a layer of primer before applying the spackle? 

As you can tell this has been driving me  NUTS! :laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

pdxrealtor said:


> Oh - I was thinking Bondo was a one part filler and resin you use with fiberglass was a different product.
> 
> 
> Maybe I should be applying a layer of primer before applying the spackle?


Bondo and spackle are two different types of filler. Bondo is a heavy bodied filler, totally unlike spackle. So, don't get confused by it being brought up. Spackle will adhere to primed surfaces, but IMO much better on bare surfaces.








 








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## pdxrealtor (Mar 8, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> Bondo and spackle are two different types of filler. Bondo is a heavy bodied filler, totally unlike spackle. So, don't get confused by it being brought up. Spackle will adhere to primed surfaces, but IMO much better on bare surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I understand. 

Why is the spackle bleeding through the primer though? 

No one thinks it is because of the way the MDF is soaking it up then leaving a different surface for the primer to adhere to? 

Im baffled. 

Someone mentioned bad spackle but it happened on my last project using a different spackle.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

pdxrealtor said:


> I understand.
> 
> Why is the spackle bleeding through the primer though?
> 
> ...


If you get a bleed through, you may want to use a better primer, or more applications.








 








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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

pdxrealtor said:


> Oh - I was thinking Bondo was a one part filler and resin you use with fiberglass was a different product.
> 
> Sounds like you're saying the resin part of fiberglass work is the Bondo. I can do some research on that. Thanks.
> 
> ...


It's very possible the MDF is causing problems with the spackle. When they make MDF it is several time the thickness and is pressed to close to the thickness you buy. By pressing it much of the formaldehyde is on the surface. I normally sand MDF before I put any finishing product on it so it would make sense to me that vinyl spackle would have a problem.

Bondo is fiberglass resin with solids mixed in. It will never really harden unless you add a cream hardener. I used some today when I reversed the direction a door was hinged filling the place on the door jamb where the hinges were and the lock strike plate. It filled the spots and was ready to sand in 10 minutes and was soon ready to paint.

It's possible your bleed through is the primer trying to lift the spackle. If it doesn't bond well enough the primer can affect it.


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