# Router Table Extension



## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

I am chewing on my plans for putting a router table extension on my table saw. In the google images I see folks that add it just to the empty space and others that remove the sheet metal insert adjacent to the cast table. the latter seem to be cabinet saws more often than not. Mine is a "hybrid" and I see more just fill the empty space.

I am leaning towards the latter. My thinking is it gets the router closer to the miter slot which might come in useful at some point. If I remove the metal insert (piece with tape measure on it just so we are talking about the same thing) I have about 27x27 inches of space to fill.

Wadda y'all think? Pros-Cons to removing the metal bit or leaving it be.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I would remove the sheetmetal extension and replace it with a router table to the end. I would make it out of plywood and cover the top side with formica and either paint the underneath side or cover it with plywood as well. The underside needs to be sealed to prevent warpage.


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## Jophus14 (Aug 21, 2012)

I have the same saw and would like to add an extension as well. I was looking at the benchdog attachment, but it is costly. Some concerns that I have about making my own are making sure it is absolutely level with the cast iron top and the overall weight of the attachment. Some people used multiple layers of MDF to make sure the router table top was stable, but then had to add a support leg to the fence rail to support the weight.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I have a cast iron extension*

Mine is a Bench Dog Pro Max, but peachtreeusa has one also. 
http://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_router_tables.htm

I just happen to like cast iron for machine tables. Here's mine in the table saw mounted on the right side, feeds right to left:











This one comes with the slots milled in, a standard size plate to support the router, and that's important.because you can get various size inserts for different diameter router bits. A shop built one will require you either make your own inserts OR make the opening a standard size of one manufacturer's inserts. Another advantage of a standard size plate is that many router lifts will work in the table....when the budget allows.

Many guys make their own and that's just fine. 

Also keep in mind that you will not want to use your table saw fence as the router table fence. When you get a router set up all perfect and you have to rip another length of stock ...well, you get it.


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

What does that weigh? That would be a minor concern to me I think. I seems like it might cause the saw to have a bias to that side. 

Not that it really matters much. I prefer to fabricate something myself...I do so LOVE the DIY aspect of anything I can do myself 

Also, I have the Rockler FX lift on the way as we speak. As I understand it that unit does not necessarily confirm to standard measurements? Dunno. Price is great, cant wait to give it a go!

Curious, why wouldnt I want to use my table saw fence?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

MrZ2u said:


> Curious, why wouldnt I want to use my table saw fence?


Murphys law. You'd get the fence dialed in perfect on the router, go to do whatever you need to do, and find out you'd need to use the saw to rip another piece


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*because.....*

Is that good enough, or do you want an explanation?

Think router setup, bit height, distance to the fence all carefully run test pieces until it's perfect. OOOPPS forgot to make one more piece, OR one piece blows out and it's no good, you need the fence to rip another length.... destroys the "perfect" setup.... it may happen, it may not.

Finally a table saw rip fence is not a router fence. For the router table you need a cutout for the bit which the rip fence doesn't have OR you need a router fence that caps over the tablesaw fence with the bit cut out opening. There is no dust collection port on a table saw fence. There is on a router table fence. 

Finally, seriously, a router table fence need only pivot at one end for minute adjustments as opposed to a sliding adjustment on the table saw fence.... much harder to get the "perfect' adjustment.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I was thinking about doing the same thing. Are you guys recommending building a separate router table, or building a separate fence?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*he asked about the TS extension*

I actually have both using cast iron the table saw extension for my free standing router tables as well as on the table saw.

Mine came with their own fence, so I didn't have to make or buy a separate one.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

A separate router table would be better however if you rarely use it or don't have the space then one mounted to your table saw would be a good option.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

hwebb99 said:


> I was thinking about doing the same thing. Are you guys recommending building a separate router table, or building a separate fence?


Yes.

A separate router table would be ideal, but failing that a wing extension with its own fence is the next best thing


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

epicfail48 said:


> Yes.
> 
> A separate router table would be ideal, but failing that a wing extension with its own fence is the next best thing


I have room for a stand alone router table. I don't know how much I would use one probably a lot. I was just trying to save money. I am going to do it right, and build a separate table.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Check out my router table plans in the project showcase forums if you're looking for ideas.


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

Links ?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

MrZ2u said:


> Links ?



http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/showthread.php?t=59227


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

Thanks...figures I find it right after I posted that 

I am not sure I have room for one like that. Definitely doing one on the table saw for now. The way I see it I can always convert it later to a stand alone like that later!

Will have to see how much space I can make use of as my garage takes shape.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

epicfail48 said:


> Murphys law. You'd get the fence dialed in perfect on the router, go to do whatever you need to do, and find out you'd need to use the saw to rip another piece


I simply look at the tape before moving it and can easily put it back whenever I wish in the same exact spot. 

Do it all the time with no issues. :smile:


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

OnealWoodworking said:


> I simply look at the tape before moving it and can easily put it back whenever I wish in the same exact spot.
> 
> Do it all the time with no issues. :smile:


...or quick clamp two pieces of scrap against it ? Seems like that would work pretty great.

Not trying to be argumentative...just thinking aloud.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

MrZ2u said:


> ...or quick clamp two pieces of scrap against it ? Seems like that would work pretty great.
> 
> Not trying to be argumentative...just thinking aloud.


Yup. :yes:

I have several different auxiliary fences that clamp to the regular TS fence for use with the router (to keep blades / bits from digging into fence). Works like a champ.

Going back and forth from ripping on the TS to using the same fence for a router is a non-issue if one looks at the measurement on the tape and makes a note of it before moving it. 

The only time this 'may' be an issue is if one needs to rip something and the fence 'needs' to be where the router bit is sticking up at... This is why I prefer to have the router mounted as far to the right as possible while still being able to use the fence and tape and have a little bit of room to spare.

It sucks to have to lower a bit to make a few cuts /rips on the TS because the bit is sticking up right where the fence 'needs' to be. If your router being used has depth stops - This is not a big problem as you can still go back to a preset setting fairly quickly. Without those depth stops - Resetting the bit to the exact height that you had it at takes a bit longer.


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

So we have a Habitat for Humanity "Re-store" in Austin which can be a gold mine from time to time. Sink cutouts and otherwise damaged laminate counter top scraps are $5 each. Picked up a traditional laminate piece and a Corian scrap as well today.

In either case I plan to put the top in a hard wood frame because I cant figure a way to attach it to the fence frame and saw otherwise. 
On the front side I have to use a tee track kind of fastener like you see here



On the back side I can just drill into it like the OEM did no problem 



Would prefer to use the Corian but wonder about a few things. The Rockler FX lift I bought has a 9mm thick plate and the Corian measures 12.5mm If I route it down leaving only a 3.25 lip I dont think it will be strong enough so I will have to back it with something else. I would have enough Corian scrap to do it or just use strips of hard wood too...all sorts of options there. Question though...would that Corian be stiff enough on its own to span the area alone. Its 27x17 raw and I figure I will take 1.5 inches on all sides so thats what, 24x14 open span?

Thoughts?


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## regesullivan (Jan 26, 2007)

This link might be helpful if you have question about using/installing Corian.

http://www2.dupont.com/Surfaces/en_US/assets/pdf/Fab-Manual-for-printing.pdf

I don't think the lip would be the week point, the center of the unsupported area is what I would be concerned about. There us a table in the link I provided that give you acceptable overhangs. I would use that to estimate an acceptable unsupported area.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Corian won't "self support" that distance*

My experience is that Corian of that size would need under support. Your perimeter frame will help for sure, but I would also try a some internal ribs... Corian, hardwood, metal? The length is the issue and you could just box around the router plate opening allow clearance for controls and hold downs. I would build the entire table top on a flat surface, upside down, allowing easy glue ups on the ribs.

Another issue is that it will be heavier than the HPL laminate. It may throw the center of gravity of the saw a little off towards the router top, so a brace may be needed?


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

I put a router table in my R4512. I just screwed into the wood support pieces through the holes in the steel insert and the guide bar.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

How strong are these aluminum fence rails? Can they support a table and router? Clearly the sum of the whole is greater than it parts and being screwed to the saw table top and rails will make a pretty strong structure, but is it enough with that rail system? Further, it is my understanding that alignment of the rails to the right side of the blade is critical.


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

sanchez said:


> I put a router table in my R4512. I just screwed into the wood support pieces through the holes in the steel insert and the guide bar.


By guide bar do you mean the one at the end of the open space between the rails?

Maybe you have a picture?


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

subroc said:


> How strong are these aluminum fence rails? Can they support a table and router? Clearly the sum of the whole is greater than it parts and being screwed to the saw table top and rails will make a pretty strong structure, but is it enough with that rail system? Further, it is my understanding that alignment of the rails to the right side of the blade is critical.


I suspect they are plenty strong. Several folks have done these and I dont recall ever hearing about issues as such. In all this contraption is not going to be very heavy really. Still, I was considering making some fold down legs or perhaps a angled support to the saw legs just the same. Not sure it would be necessary honestly.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

MrZ2u said:


> I suspect they are plenty strong. Several folks have done these and I dont recall ever hearing about issues as such. In all this contraption is not going to be very heavy really. Still, I was considering making some fold down legs or perhaps a angled support to the saw legs just the same. Not sure it would be necessary honestly.


My knowledge is limited to be sure. Most, if not all, I have seen were attached to steel angle bar. I just don't recall seeing any tied into this specific set of aluminum rails found on some Craftsman saws as well as your Ridgid.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

MrZ2u said:


> By guide bar do you mean the one at the end of the open space between the rails?
> 
> Maybe you have a picture?


Try this thread!
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/ridgid-r4512-router-table-extension-51863/


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

sanchez said:


> Try this thread!
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/ridgid-r4512-router-table-extension-51863/


I took a look at your thread. How did you tie the router table into the side rails and the saw table top? I don't see any fasteners other than what appears to be 3 screws through the spreader bar?


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

sanchez said:


> Try this thread!
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/ridgid-r4512-router-table-extension-51863/


So you didnt go thru the aluminum at all then?


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

I'll take some more pictures of the setup when I get home.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Here are a few pictures. The first shows the screws through the stamped steel part of the table saw. The other two show the screws through the spreader bar. There is nothing attaching it to the rails.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Thanks for the images and clarification. I just assumed you attached the router table to all 4 faces including saw table extension, front and back rail as well as the spreader bar. I see you only attached it to the table extension and the spreader bar. How much table deflection do you have from the saw table to the spreader bar with this set-up?


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Nothing significant. I laid a 4 foot straight edge on it and it looked even.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

sanchez said:


> Nothing significant. I laid a 4 foot straight edge on it and it looked even.


Thanks, nice set-up.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

You're welcome. And thanks!


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

I suppose I will call this version 1.0 because I am sure at some point I will build it again with some changes in mind. But then thats how this goes right 

So here is the subframe. Its just plain old pine which is one of the '2.0' things I may change. Was going to use Hickory or Maple but wanted to first build one in pine so I didnt chew up the better wood with "oh, yeah, that would have been a better idea" 

It will be secured to both fence rails the same way the metal inserts are and it will also be screwed to the insert itself for good measure.

You may notice the much wider piece on the bottom. In the near future I may put a miter channel in that area so I wanted more meat below the Corian because It will likely go through the surface but even if it doesnt its going to leave a very thin amount of material and this stuff is very brittle when its thinned out.



In the pocket I put six leveling bolts. They are threaded inserts from the bottom side. I sanded the tops of each flat and smooth to make for the best mating with the lift.





And from above mounted and leveled...


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## d_slat (Apr 10, 2012)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Yup. :yes:
> 
> I have several different auxiliary fences that clamp to the regular TS fence for use with the router (to keep blades / bits from digging into fence). Works like a champ.
> 
> Going back and forth from ripping on the TS to using the same fence for a router is a non-issue if one looks at the measurement on the tape and makes a note of it before moving it.


Or you could do what I did. I bought a used fence from another member here who upgraded his. Now I have 2 fences and just use the 2nd one for the router table.


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## jspadaro (Mar 20, 2015)

MrZ2u said:


> I suppose I will call this version 1.0 because I am sure at some point I will build it again with some changes in mind. But then thats how this goes right
> 
> So here is the subframe. Its just plain old pine which is one of the '2.0' things I may change. Was going to use Hickory or Maple but wanted to first build one in pine so I didnt chew up the better wood with "oh, yeah, that would have been a better idea"
> 
> ...


That looks awesome. I really like the corian! What do you cut corian with? I guess you decided against pulling the sheet metal? What will you do about a miter slot by the router?

I did a somewhat ghetto job extending the previous owner's baltic birch wing on my table saw. One thing I'm still wishing I had is a slot where your sheet metal extension is, and I'm definitely going to be putting one 
in sooner rather than later.

I have really liked my ******* fence better than I thought I would, though. I have been toying with some ideas for improvement, but the general idea of having the fence hang off of the table saw fence has been great - that adjustment parallel to the miter slots for free is awfully nice.


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## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

jspadaro said:


> That looks awesome. I really like the corian! What do you cut corian with? I guess you decided against pulling the sheet metal? What will you do about a miter slot by the router?


Cut hole in the Corian with a 1/4 inch end mill in the router. Otherwise with the table saw and a 60t blade.

I did decide against pulling the sheet metal but I am going to at some point rebuild this and might at that time. Couple little things about this one that I dont like that I want to solve. I have a ton of other things to do first so who knows when. In hind sight I dont think I would use Corian again. Its heavier than standard counter top and while it doesn't cause the saw to tip on its own it definitely gives it a bias that way.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

MrZ2u said:


> Couple little things about this one that I dont like that I want to solve.


Yep, I have similar thoughts on mine. Couple of things to change. That's part of making your own. Build, use, revise, repeat!


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