# Flattening wood slabs with router



## Outonalimb

I'm pretty new to woodworking. For work I fall trees but when snow comes I have alot of down time so I am trying out some live edge pieces. Being inexperienced, I have been doing things the hardest way possible.....🙄 but found some videos on flattening slabs with a router. Can anyone tell me if a plunge router is a must or can you use a regular trim router? I have only seen it done with a plunge but is it possible with out?


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## GeorgeC

Welcome aboard. The problem with a trim router is going to be power. You could make it work, but you will have to use a smaller bit because of the less power in a trim router. Therefore taking longer to do the job.


You could make your jig so that the router starts off the side surface of the slab. That way you would not need the plunge function.


George


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## woodnthings

*What he said ^*

Invest in a plunge router at least 2.25 HP. A larger router than that will be heavy as a hand held, but very good for under the table mounting. Just one router is never enough, I know, I have about 10 of them. Trim routers are great, but not for this where you might spin a 2" diameter bit. Smaller than that will take forever and increase the amount of sanding afterward. You Tube is full of videos on Planing with a router sled.


This one needs a flat bench:







This one uses a frame on the floor:


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## Tennessee Tim

Outonalimb...WELCOME!!! You'll find here there's 2 sides....then some in between, LOL!!! I'm on both sides of traditional AND power tool BUT most are hard one sided....IF you truely like wood it DOESN'T matter the side JUST ENJOY!!!!

First your question....NO you DON'T have to have a plunge router....they just make it sweeter BUT you do need HORSEPOWER and sharp cutters!!!

For the traditional...knowledge AND SHARPNESS then it's easy....ask Jay Whitecloud.

Keep us posted as we LOVE pics of wood!!!


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## 35015

*Hello...and Welcome!!!*



Outonalimb said:


> I'm pretty new to woodworking. For work I fall trees but when snow comes I have alot of down time so I am trying out some live edge pieces. Being inexperienced, I have been doing things the hardest way possible.....🙄 but found some videos on flattening slabs with a router. Can anyone tell me if a plunge router is a must or can you use a regular trim router? I have only seen it done with a plunge but is it possible with out?


Hello Outonalimb,

I think you have already gotten some darn good leads for dealing with your challenge...(Thanks Tim for your kind woods...Blessing to you Brother!)

I noted you "fall trees"...???...Is this as a Forester or Arborist? I've worked in both fields and was the Tree Warden of my town for several years. Sounds like trees and wood are a big part of your life. Good for you!!!

As stated you don't have to have a plunge router, as any will do, but larger is better and a sharp bit is a must...Small routers are for small wood, and larger is a must for really big slabs...

I would be out of character (this will make most here either laugh at me or cringe...LOL) if I didn't suggest doing it traditionally just to get to know the wood and the traditional modalities. Yes, its takes some "elbow grease" to do it this way, but not as difficult as many think. I here folks all the time talk about how "hard it is to do," yet...when I ask how many they have done from beginning to end with only traditional methods and tools..the answer is always the same...NONE!!! 

Now don't misunderstand my suggestion, it is work, but I can state it is the best way to..."learn wood"...and the art of woodworking. If you take a good and sharp scrub plane, you can work a big slab down in just a few hours if you are even in remotely good shape. I still work down large slabs (3' to 4' wide and up to 12' long) with just hand tools alone just to keep in shape and in practice for such tasks.

Now, the other method that combines power and hand work is to not use a router, but a small (or larger as our is over 12" wide) hand power planer. Then you just finish with the scrub plan, a smoothing plane then a jack plane. This isn't as much work yet the same intimate knowledge of the piece of wood and what it has to tell you about itself...

Good luck and would love to see pictures of your work!!!

j


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## woodnthings

*You can use power and hand tools ...*

I made a large door from planks glued together, much like a bench top using a combination of handheld power planer, bent sander and hand planes here:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/door-build-2-xs-1-4-ply-55717/
No router used on that project.


The hand held power planer has a learning curve, but once you master it, the task of removing thin layers of wood and leveling an uneven surface is manageable. Same goes for the belt sander, especially with an aggressive grit belt. You can easily make some gouges and divots if you not constantly moving it about. The hand planes are definitely more controllable.


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## Outonalimb

Thanks for all the help! My next question is plunge router or fixed base? Dont really understand the difference lol. I'm excited to try this method. When I say I have done things the hardest way possible I mean leveling a slab by sanding......and sanding........and sanding. A month later....I finally had it but wasnt completely happy with the results. I then bought a 22 tooth angle grinding craving disc, which was alot better then palm sander. Lol 
Jay C to answer your question, Arborist. I mainly do residential trimming, falling, pruning all that fun stuff. Where I am from, all of the tree services use boom trucks. I am one of two that actually climb instead which has its advantages. There are alot of places you are unable to take a boom. I run a pretty small business, just me and I hire a couple crew members to help me on the ground.


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## phaelax

> plunge router or fixed base? Dont really understand the difference lol


It's pretty much as it sounds. A fixed base doesn't really let you change the depth of your router bit, which is fine if you're using a router table. The plunge router let's you "plunge" the bit down at your own control. You can adjust a stop so you only go so deep. It's helpful when routing areas out in the middle of work pieces. I'm still fairly new with using routers myself but that's pretty much the basics. I have a plunge router myself I got on CL for $50, gets the job done for me.

You might want to invest in a hand planar, even a cheap one will probably save you time versus trying to sand something flat.


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## woodnthings

*V 2.0 plunge vs fixed base*



phaelax said:


> It's pretty much as it sounds. A fixed base doesn't really let you change the depth of your router bit, *which is fine* *if you're using a router table*. The plunge router let's you "plunge" the bit down at your own control. You can adjust a stop so you only go so deep. It's helpful when routing areas out in the middle of work pieces. I'm still fairly new with using routers myself but that's pretty much the basics. I have a plunge router myself I got on CL for $50, gets the job done for me.
> 
> You might want to invest in a hand planar, even a cheap one will probably save you time versus trying to sand something flat.



Not really!
To adjust the height of the bit in a "fixed" base router when it's mounted under the table, first stand on your head upside down, then you must release the motor lock, rotate the motor in it's threaded housing and hope you moved it the right direction and the right amount... This is why a router lift is so beneficial. It makes the height adjustment in small increments from above the table, at least it does so on all three of MY router tables.


A plunge router mounted under the table has return springs that when the lock is released force the motor and bit down below the table. It is almost impossible to set the bit height properly when the motor is spring loaded down. Plunge routers are NOT typically found in router tables for this reason. However, they are great for hand held operations like dados, grooves mortises etc. at least that's what I use mine for.


A combination kit is the best answer for a home shop. This kit includes both a fixed base and a plunge base which are easily attached or removed to the motor. There is also a "D" base, a type of fixed base which has the ON/OFF switch in one of the handles, a great convenience and safety feature. I love mine.

https://www.thespruce.com/best-wood-router-kit-values-3536802


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## Tennessee Tim

*Stop it!!!!*

Ya'll make it sound a fixed base isn't applicable to this project, that it's almost impossible etc., etc. It AIN'T that way.

Phalaex....you only change the depth AFTER a FULL complete pass is done AND it's just 2 turns to loosen the squeeze set by hand and no more than 1/8" drop or 1/4 turn /spin on most routers hieght adjustment. AFTER ALL the time you just spent sleding that's a drop in the bucket...pun intended!!!

Woodnthings....it AIN'T upside down and complex as you make it sound. IF YOU can't do it in 7 seconds flat in the position it will be used YOU NEED to quit woodworking!!!!! Outonalimb if is a absolutely noobie can do it in 10 if she/he knows where the adjustments are AND after 10 passes/adjustings can do it in less than 7. IT'S NOT HARD OR IMPOSSIBLE!!!

Outonalimb, I apologize for me EVEN having to post this in front of a person only asking for good simple advice. The plunge is a nicer option BUT NOT necessary. I'm 35 years into the trades including furniture, custom trims and projects...I do MANY spectacular builds with a 2 hp 30 year old fixed base....yes I've came close to purchasing a plunge and probably will when I purchase a additional router. 

I use this story with many people (I've dabbled in photography also)
.....I have a NICE camera AND MANY awh and drool over it and tell me they wish they had one that nice so they can take the great pics also.....I stop and advise them quickly, the ONLY thing I have above there cheaper camera is quality glass BUT that doesn't make great pictures....it's knowing how to use what you have (they don't know I can only operate about 4 functions on this digital pro...on/off..manual settings...flash...iso....SSssshhhHHH I got them fooled!!!!). I tell them I can do just as good with theirs...
Moral of this story....Bells and whistles don't make the train go, it's knowing how to use the working parts to make it move!!!!

Get us some pics...we LOVE wood!!!!


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## woodnthings

*C'mon Tim ...*

I NEVER said a fixed base was NOT suitable for this project. You mis-read my post. It was a reply to the one above that suggested a fixed base was good for under the table mounting. 

I said "not really" because changing the height of the bit requires reaching under the table etc ,, etc.., Read the entire post please before you call me out. :|:wallbash:
Ya know for a guy with only one router and no plunge routers you better have a good reason to admonish someone, me, who has about 10 of them in all sorts of configurations including 3 table mounted.. Can you tell I'm pissed ....?


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## Roybrew

I was working on a slab using a fixed base router. Made router sled from advice I got on here. I use blocks and plywood to raise and lower sled, eh it works for what I do. Bigger router I could use a large diameter tool and that would be quicker. Giving slab time to season out before finishing. Sure makes a lot of wood chips. Fixed base Hitachi router.


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## Larry42

I think the router sled and a decent router is your best bet. A Bosch 1617 is an OK router. It claims 2.25hp, perhaps, but router HPs are notoriously optimistic. I'm not a fan of electronic variable speed controls because they are far more likely to fail than a simple switch. Their only use would be for swinging large diameter bits where tip speed becomes excessive. There are uses for plunge routers but certainly not required for use on a sled. How big of a bit? Depends, a smaller bit can take a deeper cut all else =. A 1.5" diameter carbide tipped seems like a reasonable compromise for a 2.25HP router. Adjusting your depth of cut for successive passes will take less than 30 seconds. Be careful! Routers will want to pull you into the cut at the beginning, always two hands!!!!

It's worth noting that a router will be shearing the fibers and going "against" the grain 1/2 the time. So you still need to do a considerable amount of sanding or hand planning &/or hand scraping. 

We process live edge slabs for several furniture makers. For them it is a matter of time is money. They could do it with a sled, cheaper if they don't count their time. We use a 12hp CNC router swinging a 4" cutter. Then put the slabs through our widebelt sander. A straight line rip saw or CNC beam saw is used to prepare slabs for edge to edge joining.


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## 35015

Outonalimb said:


> ... I then bought a 22 tooth angle grinding craving disc, which was alot better then palm sander. Lol...Jay C to answer your question, Arborist. I mainly do residential trimming, falling, pruning all that fun stuff. Where I am from, all of the tree services use boom trucks. I am one of two that actually climb instead which has its advantages. There are alot of places you are unable to take a boom. I run a pretty small business, just me and I hire a couple crew members to help me on the ground.


Wow...Arborist and Climber/Rigger too...and its your own company...Good for you!!! I worked with a Forester/Botanist that also climbed. She and her husband became two of my all time favorite rock climbing partners. Its great to see Women coming into the field more!!!

I will presume you are getting some of your own trees you drop milled up into slabs? You really should do a post about your work and what you do, and the slabs you have. I'm sure many here would love to see what you do, and your work thus far...

I can't believe you actually "sanded" a slab down!!! That takes a great deal of patients...to say the least. It might have been hard, but you can at least say you did it, and not many could!!!

If you are going to go with an all power approach for flattening these slabs, and don't own a router yet, I would suggest going to a good tool supply store in your area and trying a few of them out. Hold them, see how they feel in your hand. Get them to let you feel them running, and note the gyroscopic force they produce, and what that feels like too. Then (no matter what...other than maybe a screaming sale of some kind) wait a day or two to think about it and perhaps compare some more even...Then purchase the one you want...

j


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## Tennessee Tim

woodnthings said:


> .....
> 
> Ya know for a guy with only one router and no plunge routers you better have a good reason to admonish someone, me, who has about 10 of them in all sorts of configurations including 3 table mounted.. Can you tell I'm pissed ....?


 So !!!!

All I said is it doesn't take all these configuration (bells and whistles) AND 10 plunge routers to do her job.....get UNpissed...?


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## woodnthings

*The best way to start out .....*

Get a router kit with both a fixed base and a plunge base, so you'll have both capabilities.


The fixed base will be fine for planing slabs and other hand held operations where you can adjust the bit height/depth by rotating the motor in the housing. It's NOT the best for under the table mounting because adjusting the bit height is awkward and difficult to reach. However, some newer fixed base routers have an adjustment screw in the base which allows bit height adjustment from above the table, a great feature.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/media/RouterTables.pdf



The plunge base is for held held operations like stopped grooves, or mortises where you are entering the surface incrementally at increasing depths. It is not the best for under the table mounting because you have to overcome the spring pressure each time you release the lock to adjust the bit height, which is tedious. However, some newer plunge base routers have an adjustment screw in the base which makes bit height adjustment from above the table, a great feature.
https://www.portercable.com/product...e-router-kit-with-table-height-adjuster/895pk


Or you can modify your plunge router to make above the table height adjustments like this:


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## Tennessee Tim

Roybrew said:


> I was working on a slab using a fixed base router. Made router sled from advice I got on here. I use blocks and plywood to raise and lower sled, eh it works for what I do. Bigger router I could use a large diameter tool and that would be quicker. Giving slab time to season out before finishing. Sure makes a lot of wood chips. Fixed base Hitachi router.
> View attachment 370549
> View attachment 370551


Roybrew, This is what I'd call "spot on" AND thinking "out of the box"!!!! I admire that you took simple things to achieve a specific higher goal without fancy expensive options.....yes there's a few things to change for stability BUT you achieved the project. The pics are worth a thousand words!!!!

DON'T anyone take my posts as misleading.....I DO have GOOD tools AND I have advanced knowledge and have built creative jigs for repetitive work BUT I try to teach at a basic and minimum/limited tool knowledge. People create this high standard hard to accomplish bar that requires expensive tools and shops when the TRUTH is learning/knowledge of the wood/product and BASIC procedures......I have/ had elaborate setups of my own and access to them now BUT as a most of my business is mobile I have to stay basic and minimum as I do ALL the trades and a minimum toolage for each as a whole fills a 28' enclosed shop/trailer.

Roybrew...THANKS again!!!


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## Tennessee Tim

Larry42 said:


> I think the router sled and a decent router is your best bet. A Bosch 1617 is an OK router. It claims 2.25hp, perhaps, but router HPs are notoriously optimistic. I'm not a fan of electronic variable speed controls because they are far more likely to fail than a simple switch. Their only use would be for swinging large diameter bits where tip speed becomes excessive. There are uses for plunge routers but certainly not required for use on a sled. How big of a bit? Depends, a smaller bit can take a deeper cut all else =. A 1.5" diameter carbide tipped seems like a reasonable compromise for a 2.25HP router. Adjusting your depth of cut for successive passes will take less than 30 seconds. Be careful! Routers will want to pull you into the cut at the beginning, always two hands!!!!
> 
> It's worth noting that a router will be shearing the fibers and going "against" the grain 1/2 the time. So you still need to do a considerable amount of sanding or hand planning &/or hand scraping.
> 
> We process live edge slabs for several furniture makers. For them it is a matter of time is money. They could do it with a sled, cheaper if they don't count their time. We use a 12hp CNC router swinging a 4" cutter. Then put the slabs through our widebelt sander. A straight line rip saw or CNC beam saw is used to prepare slabs for edge to edge joining.


Larry...SWEET CNC setup AND you're right they don't count their time as a expense. Your info on the tearout is important also...I enjoyed reading this post as you DIDN'T condemn the basic way to do the OP's request BUT also explained what you can achieve by spending more money/ or letting a company do the one/few project(s) with a higher precision tool(s)/shop for the ones whom want to stay as a smaller basic shop or not invest into expensive equipment.

Thanks again!!!


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## 35015

Something that was given to me today (metaphorically) from a very old (98 years) woodworker as he admired a timber frame we worked on: "...The beauty of less being more..."

Whether going with power, hand or a combination there of, the simpler a setup is kept, and the more you can learn to do with it, typically the more skill you build, be it Woodworker, Blacksmith, Potter, or other tangible craft...

For me, I see too many today relying on (and getting wrapped up in) the tooling and not the out come of what they have "tooled up" for in the first place. As this mindset takes over, from jigs to machine complexity, the more this becomes the focus. In the end, I see (and have seen) many spend more time setting things up to do a given task and would have no way (or knowledge) to carry out that task without all the technology...All the while, many have (i.e. historical) and still do the same work almost as fast (sometimes faster) with nothing but the simplest of tools...and...I would suggest with more satisfaction also, but I own my bias on that one...:laugh2::grin:


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## woodnthings

*"fixed base" is a misnomer ....*



phaelax said:


> It's pretty much as it sounds. *A fixed base doesn't really let you change the depth of your router bit,* which is fine if you're using a router table. The plunge router let's you "plunge" the bit down at your own control. You can adjust a stop so you only go so deep. It's helpful when routing areas out in the middle of work pieces.* I'm still fairly new with using routers myself but that's pretty much the basics.* I have a plunge router myself I got on CL for $50, gets the job done for me.
> 
> You might want to invest in a hand planar, even a cheap one will probably save you time versus trying to sand something flat.



You don't have this right. The fixed base router is adjustable for bit height typically by loosening a lock which is on the outside of the motor housing, rotating the motor within the housing and relocking it... aka.... Porter Cable 690's and others. The confusion comes from the word "fixed", it's just misleading. A router whose depth of cut is not adjustable would be very difficult to work with.



The plunge base routers are more true to the description in that the bit is normally held above the work surface by springs in compression. Then when you want to begin routing, a groove for instance, you release a lock, lower the bit under spring pressure and lock it at the desired "depth". There is typically a 3 step post to set the bit at 3 different depths and it's adjustable. 



Because I have 3 router tables with lifts for various setups, I am very aware how difficult is is to adjust the height of the bit above the table without a lift OR a router without that feature built into the base. 



Often the dust collection is built around the router itself to contain it. This makes it nearly impossible to reach under the table to change the bit height in either type of router without a lift. If that's the case, you must then lift the heavy router and mounting plate out of the table, adjust the bit height, measure it and place the plate back into it's recess.... a PITA.



https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/evil-machine-28461/



On this project, I used both a 3.25 HP Porter Cable and a 3.5 HP Milwaukee fixed base router to make rabbets along both edges of about 1000 lineal ft of rough sawn Cypress for some large barn doors I made. Each board was 14 ft long, so using a hand held router was the best way for me:
 

 


 

Attached Images


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## woodnthings

*In the big picture here ...*



Jay C. White Cloud said:


> Something that was given to me today (metaphorically) from a very old (98 years) woodworker as he admired a timber frame we worked on: "...The beauty of less being more..."
> 
> Whether going with power, hand or a combination there of, the simpler a setup is kept, and the more you can learn to do with it, typically the more skill you build, be it Woodworker, Blacksmith, Potter, or other tangible craft...
> 
> For me, I see too many today relying on (and getting wrapped up in) the tooling and not the out come of what they have "tooled up" for in the first place. As this mindset takes over, from jigs to machine complexity, the more this becomes the focus. In the end, I see (and have seen) many spend more time setting things up to do a given task and would have no way (or knowledge) to carry out that task without all the technology...All the while, many have (i.e. historical) and still do the same work almost as fast (sometimes faster) with nothing but the simplest of tools...and...I would suggest with more satisfaction also, but I own my bias on that one...:laugh2::grin:



Jay you are a rare breed here on the forum. Your expertise in timberframing, masony, stone cutting, blacksmithing and all the other areas is exceptionally rare. Things today move a very fast pace for the "Me First Now" generation and there's only a few who want to take the old school traditional methods to make a living or to make their projects here. In fact there are only a handful of members here who actually make a living from woodworking. Most of our members are small home shops operation out of a garage, basement or other limited space with limited equipment and limited budgets. 

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/what-type-woodworker-you-131657/


To be competitive in any field, time is money and that money goes into someone's pocket whether it the worker's or the owner of a business. So, the faster the job gets done the more money is made, but quality and workmanship must be maintained. My son is a "heavy" auto mechanic, paid on the book rate for each job that comes into the shop. The faster he can remove the rusted ball joints and replace them, them more money he makes. My neighbor is a framer and finish carpenter. The faster he can build a deck or frame a garage, the more money he makes, but he needs to bid the jobs accordingly. A wrong estimate of time will cost him.


My point is, that your perspective is very different than most of ours.
Not that we don't care about quality or craftsmanship and having a product that will endure, because we do. It's that for most the of the members here, this is a hobby and they have other full time occupations and families to attend to. Some of us are retired and not on a time crunch so there's less pressure to get a project finished. When I worked at GM's Design Studios, my time was billed at $140.00 per hour if I recall. I was one of the fastest sculptors there and could knock out a scale model in less than a week. That was most appreciated by management and I rose to the top early on.
I was sent to Japan as an "instructor" in the methods I used and to pass them on to the more traditional techniques they were using. I also learned from them and their culture. It was a great experience.


I love the traditional methods of working as well as the high tech ones. All my models were hand crafted in automotive modeling clay

with tools I made myself and sharpened weekly. As an innovator, I came up with devices and techniques that made the job go faster and that was appreciated by management. I carried that over to my woodworking and I often made a tool or machine that I couldn't afford. See the 2 axis panel saw and radial arm router I made in My Photos. I also made a RAS ripping setup for straight lining 14 ft long planks for a large barn door project. The setup was 28 ft long, too big to fit inside the shop.


I appreciate your perspective. Thanks. :vs_cool:


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## phaelax

> When I worked at GM's Design Studios
> I was one of the fastest sculptors


That's pretty cool, anything on the road you designed?


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## Tennessee Tim

woodnthings said:


> Jay you are a rare breed here on the forum. Your expertise in timberframing, masony, stone cutting, blacksmithing and all the other areas is exceptionally rare. Things today move a very fast pace for the "Me First Now" generation and there's only a few who want to take the old school traditional methods to make a living or to make their projects here. In fact there are only a handful of members here who actually make a living from woodworking. Most of our members are small home shops operation out of a garage, basement or other limited space with limited equipment and limited budgets. .....:


Woodnthings, get into your own big picture (your headline), you answered with your own statement.....most are hobbiest. Teach them the enjoyment of the craftsmanship....learning about the wood, the tools, the design, why we do this and why we don't do that.....I'll bet when you were doing the sculpting with the hand tools you had a pride of and were a part of it clay and/project...you felt every curve, smoothness, flow....you learned how to caress it to make it respond because you WERE a part of it. NOW put that to wood, it's just as relaxing IF you learn to start from the basics....I AM NOT against power tools/tooling, YES I use them BUT MY PLEASURE is KNOWING the basics from the ground up. SO I believe the teaching should be the same starting at the basics AND it is different for beginners/hobbiest that are either learning OR as YOU say limited to their budget and a experienced person that's learned about wood and joinery and desire a higher pace/knowledge.

As for basics and handtools AND making a living with them.........REMEMBER where YOU started from in your above post .....YOU DID what you're calling us as a oddity!!!!

Off my box.


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## woodnthings

*That post was not directed at you Tim*

I did not use the word "oddity" , I used the word "rare" which has a completely different meaning. I don't know why you are so offended by that post? I'm not calling anyone one out, in fact agreeing with a "hands on approach", for certain disciplines and applications. Did you read the last line? ... I appreciate your perspective......

As far as teaching the basics, that applies to those who are willing and want to learn, but not everyone here is in that position or has that desire, so it won't apply to those who, like in the case of the OP .. wants to use a router. He's already hand sanded a slab so he wants a different approach. Let's just agree to disagree, if that is the case, but I don't think so. :vs_cool:


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## woodnthings

*yes, there are some, but*



phaelax said:


> That's pretty cool, anything on the road you designed?



There are two distinct design studios at GM, production and advanced. I worked mostly in the advanced area where we worked on the fibreglas show cars for the new models you see at the auto shows. I did some work on the Pontiac on the Grand Prix, the Oldsmobie Arelo, the Fiero, the Corvette and a few trucks. It was a fun place to work with tremendously creative designers and sculptors. Before I retired, computer modelling and milling was just starting to take hold, and the old school hands on guys like me, could take the new training if they wanted or stay with the traditional methods. It was a time of transition. I chose to stay "old school".

:vs_cool:


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## gmercer_48083

Outonalimb said:


> I'm pretty new to woodworking. For work I fall trees but when snow comes I have alot of down time so I am trying out some live edge pieces. Being inexperienced, I have been doing things the hardest way possible.....🙄 but found some videos on flattening slabs with a router. Can anyone tell me if a plunge router is a must or can you use a regular trim router? I have only seen it done with a plunge but is it possible with out?


Flattening a slab can be done with any size router, Whether fixed base or plunge base. The biggest advantage of a plunge based router is that it is more stable while plunging down into the wood...which doesn't require you to tilt the router to make a plunge as with a fixed base router. This is a big advantage when you make a stop groove or a mortice. That is the basic difference. A trim router is a fixed base router that was originally intended to be used to trim laminates (countertops), but over the years marketing has expanded it beyond into woodworking.

A plunge router will do all the routing that a fixed base router will do, with the added weight of its mechanism. Beyond that different models plunge to different depths, and can use 1/4" and or 1/2" collets to hold the router bits here in the USA. Accessories are also important for safe use, like guides and bushings that can be used for template routing. A plunge router or a fixed base router can be used in a router table...Some routers easier than others.

Roybrew's photos will give you a good idea as to what you are getting into, and use his photos to help you decide how large and what type of router yo may want to get into. Hope this helps.


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## gmercer_48083

My personal preference for slab flattening is using a cheap Harbor Freight Electric hand plane, and using winding sticks to rough it fairly flat, then finish with a #5 and #4 hand plane. I must admit it took some time on 2 slabs that were cut into boards 12" x 36" from a dead white birch using a chainsaw guided by eye. I had to remove up to about 3/4" in some areas. The mess was about the same as Roybrew's photos. I purchased an Alaskan chainsaw mill attachment after that, but as of now have not used it yet. I have used this method several times after riving (splitting) logs and using my workmate to clamp them while planning them into billets to make hand planes or mallets.


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## phaelax

> using a cheap Harbor Freight Electric hand plane,


I just picked up one of those a few weeks ago (the chicago electric one). With the sale and a coupon I think I only paid $40. I used it on the round table I'm work on it, I have mixed opinions about it so far but for the price I can't really complain. It's also the first time I've used an electric planer.


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## Larry42

I'm old and near the end, so my perspective on how much time I take to accomplish a task is skewed. Learn with the simple processes, then move up to the next level. Each time going just beyond what you are comfortable with. Learn from others, no point in reinventing the wheel until you run out of the information passed down. There is nothing wrong with technology, properly applied. For those with the skill to properly use it, it saves more of their life for some other use. Push yourself to learn something new each day. I love watching the translucent peel of wood come off my nicely tuned hand plane. I do it for the pleasure it brings, not for the result of making a cabinet to sell. The person I sell to can not derive any pleasure from how I felt making it. When it comes to making a living, I sell product, not process. Having had CNC equipment for 25 years there is no way I would do without. It takes a great deal of skill to use a shop full of CNC. It Isn't just pushing the green button!


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## woodnthings

*some things you said ....*



gmercer_48083 said:


> *Flattening a slab can be done with any size router,* Whether fixed base or plunge base. The biggest advantage of a plunge based router is that it is more stable while plunging down into the wood...which doesn't require you to tilt the router to make a plunge as with a fixed base router. This is a big advantage when you make a stop groove or a mortice. That is the basic difference. *A trim router is a fixed base router that was originally intended to be used to trim laminates* (countertops), but over the years marketing has expanded it beyond into woodworking.



First off, *you* can use a trim router to flatten a slab, but I wouldn't, it's only got a 1/4" collet and at 1.25 HP, not enough on either count.


Second, you can get a trim router kit with both a fixed and plunge base which is what I have, a great little router:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP61...1+router+kit&qid=1547692178&sr=8-2&ref=sr_1_2



Maybe your definition of a "trim" router is different than mine ... I donno? I do have some early Porter Cable trim routers I used for laminates with fixed bases, if that's what you are referring to, I donno? I believe those are no longer available, but they are really handy for small jobs like mortising in a door lock plate or door hinges. :vs_cool:


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## 35015

*Perspective opinions...Who are you? Who do you want to be?*



woodnthings said:


> ...Jay you are a rare breed here on the forum...I appreciate your perspective. Thanks. :vs_cool: ...


First forgive me for cutting up you post, but its the only way I could respond well to it...

So, thank you for the appreciation...I'm not really that "rare" at all, if I was, I wouldn't have so many folks to learn from still...and more importantly...SO MANY, young ones wishing to be taught!!!



woodnthings said:


> ...Your expertise in timberframing, masony, stone cutting, blacksmithing and all the other areas is exceptionally rare. ...


If you mean collectively...???...at best I'm uncommon, but I know many that have mixed medium skill with several at the Master Level within those arts...So no...not rare at all...



woodnthings said:


> ... Things today move a very fast pace for the "Me First Now" generation and there's only a few who want to take the old school traditional methods to make a living or to make their projects here. ...


I agree with your observation about the "Me First Now" generation completely...for those that are actually in it, and like being in it...

*I don't agree at all that there is only "a few" who want to take the old school traditional methods to make a living.*

You may wish it so...(???)...but that isn't even close to an accurate perspective...unless one chooses to ignore the virtually countless young artisans popping up all over the place in just about every guild craft imaginable from weaving to woodworking and everything in between...

I will agree it is dependent on what circles...one wishes...to move in and take notice of... 



woodnthings said:


> ...In fact there are only a handful of members here who actually make a living from woodworking. Most of our members are small home shops operation out of a garage, basement or other limited space with limited equipment and limited budgets...


Again Woodnthings...that isn't a fact, that is a rather narrow statistical pool and not one to really count toward much of anything other than who participated in it...There are hundreds of thousand of annual visitors to this and forums like it...I know, I get more emails from the "readers" (aka non-members) than I some time can keep up with!!!

And...if someone is a "small shop operation" and/or new to the craft, I would say all the better to start with the basics in both modality and tool...As a professional teacher of these many crafts and arts...I sure as heck don't start someone off with a table saw and router...I start them of with a froe and hand plane first...and, *if an actual apprentice they start off closer to the OP than anything else and that is learning about trees first!!!*



woodnthings said:


> ...To be competitive in any field, time is money and that money goes into someone's pocket whether it the worker's or the owner of a business...


*Sorry, that is a opinion at best...*

I would suggest a rather narrow and limited one from a perspective that has to be chosen by the viewer...

There are countless others that don't just "go for the buck" or think "speed" is everything...not only in woodworking but many other professions as well...and thank goodness for that!!!...I don't want my Doctor, Dentist, Accountant, and many more...ONLY...thinking about "speed and $$$$"

Further...???...You do realize I make a living doing this...right...???

And, I don't work alone, nor do I lack at all in having more collegues...(as well as competitors)...growing in number each year!!!

So no...simply put...it not just about "money" to many of us...but craft, professionalism, and quality...AND...we do get paid for it rather well...



woodnthings said:


> ...My point is, that your perspective is very different than most of ours...


*Yours...???...Yes*, I can agree with that completely and respectfully...other too...but "most" that is something I would suggest you would like to believe, but is far from my daily reality in both emails, phone calls and working actuality...



woodnthings said:


> ...It's that for most the of the members here, this is a hobby and they have other full time occupations and families to attend to...Some of us are retired and not on a time crunch so there's less pressure to get a project finished...


Err...Umm...???

None of that has any real bearing on "what methods" one chooses to follow...be it tradtional...or...the view that "fast is better"...or..."Me First Now" and how they like to do things...

Professional, hobbyist, or retired...is irrelevant...



woodnthings said:


> ......As an innovator, I came up with devices and techniques that made the job go faster...I carried that over to my woodworking and I often made a tool or machine that I couldn't afford. ...


So, you like fast and you like machines...I can tell that, and you like the work you do with that speed and those machine methods and techniques...Its what you "know" and what "works" for you best. That's great! It does not change a single point I make that I often feel you are trying to counter...

It's not a competition...If you like speed and machines...GREAT!!! 

I like simplicity, fiscal conservation, efficiency with less and traditional methods above all others...but that's me, and that the perspective I share from...

*So...for the young OP that wants to "flatten a slab" with some method better than "sanding"...and with the kind of background she is coming from...* I would suggest that starting with traditional methods (or at least learning them first) might serve her better (long term) while she also may explores other modern modalities...In the end, she will form her own concert and repertoire of skill sets accordingly...:vs_smile::vs_closedeyes:


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## woodnthings

*You are correct about some aspects ...*

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f28/

If you look at this first page of questions/threads on the Timber framing forum, it goes all the way back to 2015, quite a small number. 

This is only a sample on WWT, but there are not that many folks here with that interest. Your name pops up more often than any other, so I would suggest it's a narrow field of interest compared to all the other WWT forum subjects. That's why in my experience as a member here since 2008, I call your expertise a "rarity", since I'm not a member of other web sites and I distinguish visitors from members. A visitor can not ask a question here until they sign on as a member, they can only browse. So, if you are getting emails and questions in great numbers, we wouldn't be privileged to know about those. 

We don't have blacksmithing, iron forging, blade making, stone carving, arborist, glass makers forums here so that's another reason I suggest your skills are a rarity, at least here. This site is my only frame of reference, and I agree it's limited as was the survey I posted, a small statistical sample but still relevant. Again, only active members were allowed to participate which limits the sample size. You can usually tell by the response to a question or the very question itself, whether the reply is made by a professional shop owner or a hobbiest. There is just a small number of active members here who are true professionals making their sole income from a form of woodworking, whether luthiers, furniture makers or cabinet builders. So, the 63% response from hobbiests in the survey I feel was representative, and that's was all I had to go on.

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/what-type-woodworker-you-131657/


In my view of the world of technology, albeit limited to the web and current TV channels, the age of artificial intelligence is upon us and has been for quite a while. Using my 23 year old son as the closest example, his smart phone is always on and active at his side, his high end high speed computer with 2 monitors and water cooled tower is running with either games or technical programs work related, sometimes all 3 screens are on simultaneously. While it's possible that some younger folks may have an interest in traditional hands on skill sets, it doesn't seem to be the norm, but I could be wrong. The living "off grid" TV shows certainly are interesting to me as a "prepper" who feels that we are too tied to technology, and if the grid "goes down" we will all go hungry and starve to death. WE just don't have the skills to survive. But that's a whole 'nother discussion and this thread has evolved far away from the original question .... how to use a router to flatten a slab, my fault ... sorry.


FWIW, I posted this on a different thread:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/...ening-ends-glued-up-block-209981/#post2032135

*Use a hand plane ....?* 
Our first project in wood shop was to square up a lopsided wood block using a hand plane that we sharpened for the first time.... two birds with one stone kinda thing.

All the rush to use routers and belt sanders is fine, BUT if you want to learn some planing skills try that here. You start by using a tri-square amd mark a line all around on all four sides connected to each other. That's your reference line and what you will plane down to in from each side to the center, checking the levelness/flatness with the tri-square as you go. Within 5 or 10 minutes, you'll be finished...... amazing!


The secret to successful hand planing is securing the work so it isn't moving under your forceful strokes. You need some good clamps and a stable bench of some sort to hold the pieces vertically. This is critical, so you won't be chasing the workpiece around the bench because it keeps shifting. :vs_cool:


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## Scurvy

*Agreed*



Jay C. White Cloud said:


> First forgive me for cutting up you post, but its the only way I could respond well to it...
> 
> So, thank you for the appreciation...I'm not really that "rare" at all, if I was, I wouldn't have so many folks to learn from still...and more importantly...SO MANY, young ones wishing to be taught!!!
> 
> 
> 
> If you mean collectively...???...at best I'm uncommon, but I know many that have mixed medium skill with several at the Master Level within those arts...So no...not rare at all...
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with your observation about the "Me First Now" generation completely...for those that are actually in it, and like being in it...
> 
> *I don't agree at all that there is only "a few" who want to take the old school traditional methods to make a living.*
> 
> You may wish it so...(???)...but that isn't even close to an accurate perspective...unless one chooses to ignore the virtually countless young artisans popping up all over the place in just about every guild craft imaginable from weaving to woodworking and everything in between...
> 
> I will agree it is dependent on what circles...one wishes...to move in and take notice of...
> 
> 
> 
> Again Woodnthings...that isn't a fact, that is a rather narrow statistical pool and not one to really count toward much of anything other than who participated in it...There are hundreds of thousand of annual visitors to this and forums like it...I know, I get more emails from the "readers" (aka non-members) than I some time can keep up with!!!
> 
> And...if someone is a "small shop operation" and/or new to the craft, I would say all the better to start with the basics in both modality and tool...As a professional teacher of these many crafts and arts...I sure as heck don't start someone off with a table saw and router...I start them of with a froe and hand plane first...and, *if an actual apprentice they start off closer to the OP than anything else and that is learning about trees first!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> *Sorry, that is a opinion at best...*
> 
> I would suggest a rather narrow and limited one from a perspective that has to be chosen by the viewer...
> 
> There are countless others that don't just "go for the buck" or think "speed" is everything...not only in woodworking but many other professions as well...and thank goodness for that!!!...I don't want my Doctor, Dentist, Accountant, and many more...ONLY...thinking about "speed and $$$$"
> 
> Further...???...You do realize I make a living doing this...right...???
> 
> And, I don't work alone, nor do I lack at all in having more collegues...(as well as competitors)...growing in number each year!!!
> 
> So no...simply put...it not just about "money" to many of us...but craft, professionalism, and quality...AND...we do get paid for it rather well...
> 
> 
> 
> *Yours...???...Yes*, I can agree with that completely and respectfully...other too...but "most" that is something I would suggest you would like to believe, but is far from my daily reality in both emails, phone calls and working actuality...
> 
> 
> 
> Err...Umm...???
> 
> None of that has any real bearing on "what methods" one chooses to follow...be it tradtional...or...the view that "fast is better"...or..."Me First Now" and how they like to do things...
> 
> Professional, hobbyist, or retired...is irrelevant...
> 
> 
> 
> So, you like fast and you like machines...I can tell that, and you like the work you do with that speed and those machine methods and techniques...Its what you "know" and what "works" for you best. That's great! It does not change a single point I make that I often feel you are trying to counter...
> 
> It's not a competition...If you like speed and machines...GREAT!!!
> 
> I like simplicity, fiscal conservation, efficiency with less and traditional methods above all others...but that's me, and that the perspective I share from...


I totally agree with Jay’s points throughout this thread. My grandfather was a 6th or 7th generation cabinet maker who taught my dad and uncle his craft, and all 3 of them taught me starting at age 5. Over the arc of my 50 years of working wood and other things, the hand tools came first for learning the proper way to handle the task at hand. Over time my skill sets improved and I began acquiring more advanced power tools to aid my pursuits.

Without realizing it, I had entered the Great American Tool Arms Race, which this thread spells out quite well, and I felt compelled to keep upgrading and going bigger and more “capable.” Yes, tool manufacturers are in the business to sell product and they do so with very persuasive marketing and we must all check our heads as we ponder spending our hard earned money. There can be no ignoring the fact that on this forum, as well as many others, there is an element of tool competition and pride on display that represents another vein of woodworkers: The folks who are more focused on the tooling and hotrodding of the shops rather than end results of the project. The process is where their hearts like to go,a nd that is just as good as the end result, so you ought to figure out what kind of woodworker you hope to be.

Now days, I am a hybrid woodworker who’s shedding power tools for a variety of reasons, but what pushed me to do so is for health and space reasons. The single most valuable, precious, and expensive tool in woodworking is the shop itself and shop power tools generally take up huge amounts of space when set up for efficiency; I live in an urban environment and do not have and will not get a decent sized shop to house those sexy industrial tools. Then there’s the health concerns: power tools quickly produce vast amounts of unhealthy sawdust and noise, which triggers a whole additional layer of very costly tooling and power for effective mitigation. Also, modern power tools are largely designed for working sheet goods, and it will be very helpful for you to understand what kind of woodworking you plan to do. It might be useful to realize that in your professional capacity, a bigger, more powerful chainsaw is often better, but that doesn’t necessarily apply to woodworking, particularly since chainsaws are brutal tools for brutal work — it’s a very different mindset. 

Jay’s comments about the aesthetics are spot on for me. I love the sound of the hand plane as it bites into the wood, I love the feel of the traditional wood grips and wood or cast iron bodies in my hands. The nature of the wood itself is revealed as it gets worked with hand tools in a way not possible with power tools, and this includes the ability to quickly and safely touch/assess the wood with my finger tips. This subtle interaction provides guidance for future steps in the process. Power tools do what they do often times too quickly to pick up on these moments and pieces get ruined that way.

Lastly, Jay correctly points out that it’s quite possible that you can work your slab down faster by hand than with a router. The one key puzzle piece not mentioned by the router advocates is that a router planing setup requires you to correctly and accurately fabricate (gotta have the right tools to do this) and then setup the planer frame before you can make your first router pass. Of course, you have to continually recalibrate the router as each pass is completed, and that further slows progress and easily goes wrong. Best case scenario for the router planer is that it is really tedious (as stated by Mark Spagnello, The Wood Whisperer). With hand planes, all you have to do is anchor the work piece and GO, instant satisfaction as the chips fly. In numbers, the router planer can realistically make 1” passes at a 1/4” depth at best, and a sharp scrub plane is 2” wide and can take a 1/8” pass. A quality scrub plane costs about $170, no additional bit cost needed.

I’m finding that for my one-off hobby projects, quality hand tools are cheaper, quieter, healthier, more satisfying to use, and take up much less space than the equivalent quiver of power tools. IMO, if you don’t already have one, your best and wisest money is spent on a quality workbench — notice I’m not suggesting you go buy one, because you can build your own. Suggestion: Watch some of Paul Sellers YouTube vids.


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## woodnthings

*There may be a misunderstanding here ...*

I am not a "power tool is best for all applications" guy, but I am a guy who will use use the most effective and efficient tool or machine for the project. I have a great collection of hand chisels, mortising chisels and spoon gouges as well as all manner and sizes of hand planes and some wonderful Japanese timber framing slicks:


https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/chisel-storage-box-36553/


https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/chisel-storage-box-36389/


My Stanley 60 1/2 block plane in action;










Some of the hand planes:




















There is no one method or tool that is best under all circumstances. :vs_cool:


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## 35015

Scurvy said:


> I totally agree with Jay’s points throughout this thread...
> 
> Without realizing it, I had entered the Great American Tool Arms Race, which this thread spells out quite well, and I felt compelled to keep upgrading and going bigger and more “capable.”
> 
> Now days, I am a hybrid woodworker who’s shedding power tools for a variety of reasons, but what pushed me to do so is for health and space reasons...It might be useful to realize that in your professional capacity, a bigger, more powerful chainsaw is often better, but that doesn’t necessarily apply to woodworking, particularly since chainsaws are brutal tools for brutal work — it’s a very different mindset.
> 
> Jay’s comments about the aesthetics are spot on for me...
> 
> Lastly, Jay correctly points out that it’s quite possible that you can work your slab down faster by hand than with a router...


A deep and humble thanks Scurvy...You, "get it,"...and you seem to have also started making it work in your craft as well...!!!



woodnthings said:


> I am not a "power tool is best for all applications" guy, but I am a guy who will use use the most effective and efficient tool or machine for the project...There is no one method or tool that is best under all circumstances. :vs_cool:


Hi Woodnthings,

I believe that about you...

I think our views (in general) are just different when it comes to woodworking approaches and philosophies (not a "right-wrong" or "good-bad" thing) and the lens at which we view the woodworking world collectively is vastly different...

I don't believe it would be untrue of me to say, and I don't mean it in any way other than pure observation but you...*LOVE TOOLS...!!! and the application of them!!!* 

You present with each post having a much more leaning bent toward power than hand tools. If that is not true (??) then its not easy to see about you. Almost all of the advise I have read from you on these many post threads is a "power first" solution and often "big power"...That is your style, and you are frankly (I think?) extremely good with it...That's you, and I accept it fully!

As to your self reflection of only going for the most* "effective and efficient tool or machine for the project,"* I believe...you believe...that is true about yourself....

I mean that in a kind and observatory way. I know you own "hand tools" and actually own quite a few of them...which again...is reflective of the above fact once more...YOU LOVE TOOLS!!! I dare say you fall close to somewhere (perhaps) between collector or "hoarder" of them...LMAO!!! Nevertheless, your shop, your posts and your advise suggest a "machinest" and "engineering" mentality that focuses more on "mechanization" than tradition of craft...

I guess (??) in closing this post Woodnthings, my observation is that of the "means, methods and materials," your passion and knowledge base (as reflected here on this forum which is the only way I know you at this time) is focused and gifted towards a dedication to primarily...the means...within the modern context. Then you share (mostly) a very...mechanized...focus on any given approach method...and you apply this to the...material...(aka wood) with a very contemporary and modern bent.

Its who you are...now, and if you are happy with that...so em I!!!...:vs_cool:


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## FrankC

Getting back to the original question, there is no difference between a fixed and a plunged router once they are set. You don't need a plunge router, however you may appreciate having one. The only difference is being able to adapt to the tool you have on hand.


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## woodnthings

*no difference?*



FrankC said:


> Getting back to the original question, there is no difference between a fixed and a plunged router once they are set. You don't need a plunge router, however you may appreciate having one. The only difference is being able to adapt to the tool you have on hand.





Yes, once the depth is set, they operate the same way. But, there are times when a plunge is better and safer than a fixed base, and that's why they were made. I use mine for mortises and stopped slots where a fixed base would be a real pain. For a sled used on flattening a slab, a fixed base would work, but a plunge with the adjustable depth stop would be my preference. I don't recommend a plunge base for under the table use. IF you can afford a lift or get a one with the above the table adjustment feature, that's the best option. The dual base kits are certainly the best value for the money. :vs_cool:


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## Tool Agnostic

Outonalimb said:


> I'm pretty new to woodworking. For work I fall trees but when snow comes I have alot of down time so I am trying out some live edge pieces. Being inexperienced, I have been doing things the hardest way possible.....🙄 but found some videos on flattening slabs with a router. Can anyone tell me if a plunge router is a must or can you use a regular trim router? I have only seen it done with a plunge but is it possible with out?


Did @Outonalimb get the answer she needs? Part of the problem is terminology. Does Outonalimb really mean "regular trim router" or did she mean "fixed base router"?

Here is my response:

* Routers come in various sizes. I like to think of them as:
++ Small trim routers
++ Medium general purpose routers
++ Large, heavy, powerful routers.

* Routers can be mounted in various common ways:
++ Fixed base
++ Plunge base
++ Screwed under a flat plate or directly to the underside of a router table
++ Router lift in a router table

* Routers have other limitations:
++ Small trim routers are low power and accept only small, 1/4 inch shank router bits. They are not very suitable for flatting boards with a sled. 
++ Larger routers have more power, but they can be heavy and challenging to maneuver for handheld uses. 

*Recommendations:*
* If the router will be used ONLY to flatten boards, get a powerful, full-size plunge router. The large base will give it stability, and the powerful motor can spin large router bits without strain. A 3 horsepower router would be nice for that job.
* If the router will be used for general purpose woodworking, in addition to flattening boards, then buy a medium-size, general-purpose router "set" that comes with a fixed base and a plunge base. A 2 1/4 horsepower router would be good. It won't be as easy and light for handheld uses where a trim router is best, but it can do an excellent "all around" job for you. 
* Routers can be loud and dangerous. Wear eye, ear, and dust protection when you use a router. Be sure you know how to operate it safely at all times. Sadly, I know several people who have been "bitten" by their routers. None of them planned to get bitten when it happened.
* With any new tool, practice first on scrapwood until you understand how to use it safely.

*If you want a general purpose router:*
* Consider a Bosch 1617EVSPK. Makita is also a good brand.
* Porter-Cable has declined in quality and customer service lately, and many people will tell you to stay away, but you might consider a PC 895PK fixed/plunge router. Many people think of Porter-Cable as the "standard" router. Base plates, guide bushings, and other router accessories are pre-drilled or sized to fit Porter-Cable routers. The other brands are generally compatible, but sometimes adapters (or extra drilling) may be required.

*Caveat:*
* If you are going to use the router with a router lift in a table someday, use care when looking at routers with switches in the handle (sometimes called a D-handle). Be sure the motor itself has an independent switch. (NOTE: I am not sure such routers exist!) I was shopping for a router with the switch in the handle until I learned that the router's motor base has only metal contacts AND NO SWITCH. Those routers cannot be used in a router lift, because there is no easy way to switch them on and off.


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## abdulbasit

You can do your desired job even without any sort of router. You can have the manual slab straightener that works pretty well but of course, it would not be that effective and takes more time. And as you mentioned, you are a beginner in it, I recommend buying a plunge router to have more grip over what you do.


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## woodnthings

Quoting TA's post above:
_* If you are going to use the router with a router lift in a table someday, use care when looking at routers with switches in the handle (sometimes called a D-handle). Be sure the motor itself has an independent switch. (NOTE: I am not sure such routers exist!) I was shopping for a router with the switch in the handle until I learned that the router's motor base has only metal contacts AND NO SWITCH. Those routers cannot be used in a router lift, because there is no easy way to switch them on and of_f.

The "D" handled routers have a very short cord on the motor which plugs into the handle with the ON/OFF switch.

Quote;
_* If the router will be used ONLY to flatten boards, get a powerful, full-size plunge router. The large base will give it stability, and the powerful motor can spin large router bits without strain. A 3 horsepower router would be nice for that job. _

I have never seen a 3 HP plunge router myself. I donno, but that's a lot of power/torque to be starting into a piece of wood with just your two hands to control it IF the bit is on the larger size. Triton makes one, but it's claiming 3.25 HP on a 120 volt line, which is not really possible, so one of those "optimistic" claims. JMO








Triton 110-Volt 3.25 HP Precision Dual Mode Router with Plunge TRA001 - The Home Depot


The Triton TRA001 has a powerful 3.25 HP motor, able to handle even the toughest work pieces. The Patented Rack and Pinion adjustment allows you to switch from plunge to fixed routing with the push of



www.homedepot.com





Another Triton with 2.25 HP:








Triton 110-Volt Precision Dual Mode Router with Plunge MOF001 - The Home Depot


Quiet, easy to control and simple to adjust, this compact machine is ideal for those looking for a router equally suited for table-mounted and hand-held use. Soft start allows close control during hand-held



www.homedepot.com


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## John Smith_inFL

this is a bit of an older thread - but sill useful information.
(the O/P, Out on a Limb, has not come back since her original post in 2019).
for me personally, having used hand-held routers in my profession, I want to keep both forearms on the table for stability and control. The Triton router with the high knob handles would take away that stability and (for me) quickly become a liability rather than a useful tool. Even if it was free, I would not want it in my shop as a free-hand tool.
for a novice wanting a free-hand router should do a lot of research prior to getting anything over 2hp for free-hand work.


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## Rebelwork

John Smith_inFL said:


> this is a bit of an older thread - but sill useful information.
> (the O/P, Out on a Limb, has not come back since her original post in 2019).
> for me personally, having used hand-held routers in my profession, I want to keep both forearms on the table for stability and control. The Triton router with the high knob handles would take away that stability and (for me) quickly become a liability rather than a useful tool. Even if it was free, I would not want it in my shop as a free-hand tool.
> for a novice wanting a free-hand router should do a lot of research prior to getting anything over 2hp for free-hand work.


I've carved out many chair bottoms and the PC 690 worked fine. Believe me, that's work...


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