# HF lathe



## w1pers (Nov 27, 2013)

I hate to ask this knowing that I will get a lot of flack from the "don't buy HF tools" crowd but I am looking for some feed back from anyone that may have experience with the HF 12'' x 33-3/8'' Wood Lathe with Reversible Head. Central-Machinery - item#34706. I checked it out at HF today and it looks pretty well made. It gets good reviews on their site. I have a 25% off coupon that will bring it down to about $200. Also curious about their Pro lathe tools... any experience with those?

Just like with the lathe... not looking to spend large quantities of $ on tools that I am just messing around with. But want something I can get a few years from and maybe upgrade to something better later on.


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## gmcsmoke (Feb 6, 2011)

I think the complaint with these is the minimum speed is too high and lacks any real HP. there's a reason why Jet's and nova's are so expensive; even grizzly takes a beating on their lathes.

Unless you're not interested in turning bowls or anything heavy I'd pass.


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## 20/20 (Nov 7, 2013)

Good little machine for the price, yes low speed is a bit high, but it didn't stop me from turning fair sized bowls. even did a 15'' bowl once. The machine frame itself is plenty strong and well built. The motor is little under power but with "sharp" tools it'll do a decent job. The legs are not the greatest, they're strong but not heavy enough, this can be fixed by either screwing the machine down to the floor or by adding weights(or both which is what I did). The real issue with this machine much like any of these smaller variable speed machines is the reeves drive system. It will eventually break down, I know there are those here that say nope won't happen, same thing I said, it will become an issue sooner or later. It can be fixed and there are things that can be done to add hrs of turning fun. I completely ripped my out when the time came and replaced it with a 4 speed manual belt system still works good.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Whatever lathe you purchase is only part of the cost to begin turning.

Look back at earlier threads so you get an appreciation of what is involved.

I was surprised when I purchased my lathe at how much I had to spend on "accessories" in order to use the lathe.

An example of an earlier thread.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/getting-started-56449/

Whatever turning tools you purchase, you need to also get some method of sharpening.

Inexpensive turning tools work, but they dull faster than expensive tools. A dull tool is a dangerous tool.

Folks starting out in turning do not appreciate that a tool may need to be sharpened several times during a project. You would be lucky to get two projects from a given tool before the edge needs to be re-freshed. This can be hand honing, but it needs to be done often.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

I'm another satisfied user of HF #34706 -- but I strongly advise buying the "extended replacement warranty". If it breaks down in the time period covered, they simply give you a replacement lathe. (Yes, it happened to me once.)

I made mine dance a couple of times, putting big wet out-of-balance lumps onto it -- it helped a lot when I spent a little extra time at the bandsaw getting the blank closer to balanced.

And I managed to bog it down taking too heavy a cut, this isn't a Robust American Beauty -- but for $200 it's a very good deal.


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

I too have the HF 34706. Granted i have nothing to compare it to. But i am making pens..stoppers...bowls..ect with it and i have not had any problems other than the cheap belt on the reeves drive. In the year i have had it it has paid for itself many times over. If this one bites the big one..i will buy another.


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## cuerodoc (Jan 27, 2012)

That was my "first' real lathe after I tired of the shopsmith. +1 on the warranty--it's worth it.
It is a tad underpowered but you can still do some nice things with it. (mine's for sale btw)
I added weight to mine, no dancing.
Do look on HF's site Q&A's--to find out the correct sized replacement drive belt that you can get at NAPA or others.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

I saw the lathe at HF a couple weeks ago and was pleasantly surprised. Their lathes that I have seen previously weren't very impressive, but this one is pretty good especially considering the price. It's definitely not a Jet, but it is made well enough to be satisfactory for most small projects.


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## 20/20 (Nov 7, 2013)

I think Dave makes a very important point ......."Whatever turning tools you purchase, you need to also get some method of sharpening.

Inexpensive turning tools work, but they dull faster than expensive tools. A dull tool is a dangerous tool"..................... 

The only thing I can add is LEARN TO SHARPEN, no matter how you do it, sharpening can take as much time as turning, it's an art in its self. You can buy the most expensive sharpening system on the market, but it won't mean squat unless you get a feel for the tool itself. I sharpen all mine on DIY systems and would have no problem holding them against any of the expensive sharpening machines out there, in the end, sharp is sharp....... You can spend hundreds or you can spend pennies on the dollar, won't make a difference if there is no understanding of the tools used. I have some cheapo turning tools and yes they do dull faster but after all... they are cheap. The one + is a broke cheapo is easy to experiment with, an expensive tool can be a tear jerking if ruined. I destroyed the hardness of one of my gouges, thought it was junk. I then remembered a class I took yrs ago about hardening steel, figured what the hey and tried it, been using that tool for 3 yrs now with no problems.


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## 20/20 (Nov 7, 2013)

I believe the NAPA replacement belt # is 3L240 (please correct if wrong) I can check later to make sure. The belt does make a difference.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

The sharpening system can cost a bunch of money. 

Slow turning grinder with variable speed, special wheel, sharpening system like the wolverine etc. diamond wheel dresser and maybe a sharpening jig for bowl gouges.

I'm not sure what others have. :thumbsup:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I've looked at that lathe in the store and I would buy it if I didn't already have a lathe. I have seen chatter on the net that the feature which allows the headstock to swivel around 180 degrees is problematic. Personally I probably wouldn't use that feature and could be mounted solid. It's suppose to give under pressure letting the turning come out.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> I have seen chatter on the net that the feature which allows the headstock to swivel around 180 degrees is problematic.


Even if the swivel feature works without a problem, there is an inherent issue in swiveling the headstock - the detent may not be accurate when you return the headstock to 0 degrees.

The detent is not likely to align the headstock between the rails. These days I avoid rotating my headstock.

I was having problems with drilling projects on the lathe. The drill bit wandered off. I had checked the alignment of the headstock and tailstock by having a spur centre in headstock and the cone live centre. I adjusted the tailstock to be aligned with the headstock.

I continued to have drilling problems with slight eccentric holes, especially at the bottom of deep holes such as pepper mills. 

I even replaced the drill chuck in case this had run out problems, but no difference.

It took awhile before I realised I needed to check the headstock was locked in the middle of the bed ways. It was slightly off. Drat. Easy to correct, but lesson learned. If I ever move the headstock I will need to re-align the headstock BEFORE I check alignment with the tailstock. After fixing the headstock, I then had to re-align the tailstock. Not a big deal, but if one thing changes, you have to check other things.

I can now appreciate why some folks prefer lathes where the headstock does not rotate, but can be moved down the bed to the tailstock end for off lathe turning.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Dave Paine said:


> Even if the swivel feature works without a problem, there is an inherent issue in swiveling the headstock - the detent may not be accurate when you return the headstock to 0 degrees.
> 
> The detent is not likely to align the headstock between the rails. These days I avoid rotating my headstock.
> 
> ...


It's been some time since I read the negative feedback on that lathe but it had more to do with the mechanism breaking or the bolt that holds the headstock stripping out letting the headstock come loose. The problem with feedback like that though is the person that wrote it may have abused the machine. I just repeated it in case that feature was especially appealing to w1pers. If it really is true he might be in for a big dissapointment if he had to jury rig the machine so the headstock didn't swivel.


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

I've had the HF #34706 lathe for a couple of years now. I love it and have had a lot of fun with it. I use it mostly for spindle work and not bowls but have made a few bowls with it. My only negative comment would be that it is a little underpowered when using for large heavy bowls but still workable. The Reeves drive still operates smoothly and I've had no trouble with it, you just have to change speeds with the machine running. Well, I guess one other thing that is a sticking point for some is the minimum speed, it's up around 600 rpm. I have put a 6 ~ 7" piece of walnut 14" long and turned it down to the heartwood for a nice mallet however with no problem. 

Too bad you aren't closer because my motorcycle is going to turn into a bigger, better lathe this Summer. At 68 I don't think I can bounce like I used too.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

20/20 said:


> I believe the NAPA replacement belt # is 3L240 (please correct if wrong) I can check later to make sure. The belt does make a difference.


I haven't looked at it to verify the belt size, but most machines in this size range with poly rib belts use J-section belts. A lot of mini lathes use three rib J-section belts. My Robust American Beauty lathe uses a ten rib J-section belt.


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## w1pers (Nov 27, 2013)

rrbrown said:


> The sharpening system can cost a bunch of money.
> 
> Slow turning grinder with variable speed, special wheel, sharpening system like the wolverine etc. diamond wheel dresser and maybe a sharpening jig for bowl gouges.
> 
> I'm not sure what others have. :thumbsup:


Any recommendations on the jig and grinding wheels?. Can the standard grinding wheels be swapped out? Where would I find a the jig? Or would I need to make one?


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## w1pers (Nov 27, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> I've looked at that lathe in the store and I would buy it if I didn't already have a lathe. I have seen chatter on the net that the feature which allows the headstock to swivel around 180 degrees is problematic. Personally I probably wouldn't use that feature and could be mounted solid. It's suppose to give under pressure letting the turning come out.


I didn't look that closely at the rotating feature but I did notice that there was a cap on the outside of the stock head that appeared to have some type of mount system under it. I was thinking that maybe this was a mod. of that system, so you could mount the your work (bowl?) on the outside? Instead of having to rotate the head. Don't know the correct terms to describe it so I hope this makes sense.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> Even if the swivel feature works without a problem, there is an inherent issue in swiveling the headstock - the detent may not be accurate when you return the headstock to 0 degrees.


I mentioned this to one of the members of the club I go to who's used a Nova 3000 for several years. He recommended I get one of the Nova "Acruline" gadgets -- simply a double-ended morse taper -- which he uses to quickly get the headstock and tailstock aligned again after he's used it off-axis.

Link (though it's out of stock at Nova right now -- I bought mine through Woodcraft, they ordered it and called me when it arrived.)


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

duncsuss said:


> I mentioned this to one of the members of the club I go to who's used a Nova 3000 for several years. He recommended I get one of the Nova "Acruline" gadgets -- simply a double-ended morse taper -- which he uses to quickly get the headstock and tailstock aligned again after he's used it off-axis.
> 
> Link (though it's out of stock at Nova right now -- I bought mine through Woodcraft, they ordered it and called me when it arrived.)


I may get one of these next time I order from Packard Woodworks, which sells the same thing, although generically called Morse Taper Alignment Adapter.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...Code=packard&Category_Code=lathes-acc-mrstool


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

w1pers said:


> Any recommendations on the jig and grinding wheels?. Can the standard grinding wheels be swapped out? Where would I find a the jig? Or would I need to make one?


The forum has a number of threads on sharpening, purchase vs making jigs like the Wolverine and Vari-grind.

You may want to look around some mail order sites.

Packard Woodworking located in N. Caroline. Closer to me than for you.
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=packard

Craft Supplies, located in Utah so closer to you then for me.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s/7/2/Turning-Tools

Lee Valley. Canadian company, but ships in US from a warehouse in Buffalo, NY.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/Index.aspx


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> I may get one of these next time I order from Packard Woodworks, which sells the same thing, although generically called Morse Taper Alignment Adapter.
> 
> http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...Code=packard&Category_Code=lathes-acc-mrstool


Yes, that's the same gizzmo.

I've used mine to get the tailstock back on the same axis as the headstock -- they were parallel, but not exactly on the same centerline. (Drilled holes were uniform but just a smidge larger than I wanted them.)


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## Camden (Oct 22, 2013)

Interesting that I logged on specifically to post about this lathe. Underpowered? Yes, depending on what you're turning. For "messing around", it's got plenty of power. Low speed too high? Yes, if you're chucking up large, out of round pieces, it will be nearly impossible to cut safely. This is easily remedied with a VFD or some such drive train mod. Rotating head... I haven't used it, but I could definitely see that being a problem. Light weight base? Trash. Either ballast the heck out of it or build a new stand altogether. It will dance bunches at higher speeds. 

The Reeves Drive is pretty gosh darn beefy. As long as you have some respect for it, and keep a good belt mounted, it'll do really well. The ways are, surprisingly, very true and very smooth. I buffed mine out with steel wool and WD-40 out of the box, followed by paste wax, and haven't touched them again in almost a year. Slick as snot on a log. There are other positives, too. I'll start a new thread to avoid highjacking this one, but suffice it to say that, yeah, you're gonna want to go ahead and get that warranty if this is the route you go. I'm not going to advise against it, because it's not a terrible lathe, but it does have limitations that other lathes of this size do not. More about that later. Good luck with your decision. Oh, and anything Dave Paine says, HEED! Him, John Lucas and many, many others on this forum are the reason I am the turning junkie I am now... And that's a good thing.

WCT


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## fixer (Jul 24, 2011)

I've had my 12 -33 HF lathe for 4 years

the good--------
it still works fine !
head stock and tail stock still aligned and I've done 
several outboard rough outs with the head turned 90 degrees
so I could finish a bowl to 12"(it will clear 12" but not 12 1/8 " !

reeves drive still working(apply a little dry graphite spray
lube once a year) !

I put on a new belt after 2 years of abuse ( i was brand new to 
turning) !

the bad-------

the motor is a little under powered for heavy cuts 
on large pieces (I've stalled the motor more times 
than I can think of) !
the lowest speed is 600 rpms a little fast for large 
out of balance pieces (well maybe a lot fast for 
some of the stuff I turn) !

the the legs are sheet metal, not heavy cast !
----------------------------------------------
if you set the HF lathe next to a jet 
and were color blind 
you couldn't tell the difference by looking at them
till you look at the price tag !
the jet is probably a better lathe but that is reflected 
in the price tag:blink:
----------------------------------------------
just my 2c worth:yes:
your milage may vary:icon_smile:


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

*I'm hardly one to give advice, but ...*



20/20 said:


> I believe the NAPA replacement belt # is 3L240 .....





Bill Boehme said:


> I haven't looked at it to verify the belt size, but most machines in this size range with poly rib belts use J-section belts.....





Camden said:


> ... The Reeves Drive is pretty gosh darn beefy......


Thanks for reminding me that the lathe has a Reeves drive. Most woodturning lathes with Reeves drives use A-section belts and not the thin multi-ribbed type. Reeves drives work best with wrapped belts, but in all likelihood, the belt supplied with this lathe (and most other similar woodturning lathes with Reeves drives) is probably the garden variety raw edged belt. 20/20 may be thinking of the HF mini lathe.



Camden said:


> .... Yes, if you're chucking up large, out of round pieces, it will be nearly impossible to cut safely. This is easily remedied with a VFD or some such drive train mod.....


Because this lathe is an entry level tool, putting a VFD and motor (don't forget that you can't just add a VFD, it is also necessary to add a three phase motor) on this puppy isn't too far removed from putting lipstick on a pig. She will look pretty, but you will be spending more than twice the new cost of this lathe for the upgrade and what you will have in the end is still the same entry level lathe, but with low speed capability. However, if you are like me and like to tinker with machines to make them better even when it goes against common sense then I understand where you're coming from man.


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## Hwood (Oct 21, 2011)

I find it rather interesting how much this machine looks like some other brands on the market. I have wondered if I could swap motors from a better brand with the motor on my hf machine...and the tool rest.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Hwood said:


> I find it rather interesting how much this machine looks like some other brands on the market. I have wondered if I could swap motors from a better brand with the motor on my hf machine...and the tool rest.


The motor may depend on
a) Mounting bracket and hole pattern
b) Shaft diameter
c) Rotation. Normally able to be changed by switching a couple of wires.

The tool rest should be easy if the post diameter matches.

Oneway and Robust make good tool rests.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> The tool rest should be easy if the post diameter matches.
> 
> Oneway and Robust make good tool rests.


Watch out for the tool post diameters ... the HF banjo has a 25mm hole, not 1". The difference (about 16 thou) is enough to stop a rest with a 1" post from fitting.

Feel free to ask me how I know this :laughing:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

duncsuss said:


> Watch out for the tool post diameters ... the HF banjo has a 25mm hole, not 1". The difference (about 16 thou) is enough to stop a rest with a 1" post from fitting.


Good clarification.

The 1in Woodcraft system with replaceable tool rests is likely to be 25 mm based on the sloppy fit in my NOVA lathe.

http://www.woodcraft.com/category/5/1002087/2000391/WOODCRAFT Lathe Tool Rest System.aspx


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

You know the old adage, ask the man that owns one. I own one. I have had it now for I guess 4 years, and it has been a good reliable lathe, YES it does spin a little fast for large turnings, but the swing is only 12", so that isn't that big of a deal to me. The motor is pretty skimpy at 3/4 HP, but it compares pretty solidly to the lathe it copies, the Jet JWL1236.

The shortcomings of this lathe can be overcome by using sharp tools, and a light touch. Yes if you just jam the roughing gouge into a workpiece you WILL stop this lathe. However if you actually let a well sharpened roughing gouge do the work, it works VERY well...

I cannot attest to the HF turning tools as mine came from Penn State, however I hear reports that the Windsor Design HSS and the Bejnamin's Best HSS 8 piece kit are more or less the same thing, and aside from a truly horrible wooden box they came in, the turning tools have been very functional for me...


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## w1pers (Nov 27, 2013)

I appreciate everyone's input on this. I am sufficiently concerned with "total" cost of acquiring any lathe that I need to start looking at the cost vs. benefit. My nephew has offered to loan me his Jet mini lathe for a short time to play with and decide if I want to continue to pursue. Looking at cost of bench grinder, proper grinding wheel, sharpening jigs, lathe tools...etc. Need to decide if I am ready to basically double the cost of the lathe. If HF has it on sale this weekend (Parking lot sale) at the new HF with my 25% off coupon might be enough to get me to pop on it. We will see. :blink:


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## Camden (Oct 22, 2013)

Because this lathe is an entry level tool, putting a VFD and motor (don't forget that you can't just add a VFD, it is also necessary to add a three phase motor) on this puppy isn't too far removed from putting lipstick on a pig. She will look pretty, but you will be spending more than twice the new cost of this lathe for the upgrade and what you will have in the end is still the same entry level lathe, but with low speed capability. However, if you are like me and like to tinker with machines to make them better even when it goes against common sense then I understand where you're coming from man.[/QUOTE]

Bill, you got me pegged there! I DO tinker, in spite of sense, common or otherwise. This was a fun one. Treadmill guts, among other things, allowed this pig to get all gussied up on the cheap. But I agree; I would NOT pay for a VFD conversion, motor and all, for ANY harbor freight machine. As much as I like tinkering, I know when it's just not worth it. Generally speaking, if it's metric, I don't tinker...

WCT.


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## w1pers (Nov 27, 2013)

Got the Jet mini lathe from my nephew today. He brought over a couple of blades so I can mess with it. Looking forward to trying it out.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

w1pers said:


> Got the Jet mini lathe from my nephew today. He brought over a couple of blades so I can mess with it. Looking forward to trying it out.


Turn safe -- always wear a faceshield, and have fun :thumbsup:


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## w1pers (Nov 27, 2013)

Thanks for the advice. My nephew told me the same thing.


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