# sand paper (sandpaper) review



## Rileysan (Jun 15, 2015)

I recently bought an old kitchen cabinet from a garage sale for use in my shop. I decided to clean up a few rough edges so I got out my 1/4 sheet palm-grip sander. On numerous occasions, a splinter would catch and tear through the sheet of sand paper. I eventually got frustrated and switched to the random-orbit sander - which was much too aggressive.

Keeping in mind I am a novice, the quality of sandpaper had never crossed my mind until now. What brands of sandpaper do members here recommend, and why? Also, are there types of sandpaper that are better suited for removing paint (read: does not gum-up the sandpaper).

Thanks!

Brian


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I have to say I like the ShopSmith brand sold at Lowes. It seems to last long enough and it's very consistent in grit and cuts fast.

I also should point out price isn't a reason I buy anything in woodworking and I toss the discs well before they are worn out. Trying to get something out of a worn disc is going to get you a bunch of scratches and polished wood.

Al


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Finer grits are less aggressive than coarser grits (say 120 vs 320) but it just takes that much longer.
Patience can be a virtue at times when a bigger hammer just isn't the answer.

The other thing: when the paper begins to clog with debris, my inclination has been to push harder. The friction increases, the sheet heats up and the gunk melts into the sandpaper sheet. Instead: shut the sander off, turn it over and scrub the sandpaper with a crepe rubber stick (Lee Valley). It acts like an eraser and pulls the crud out of the paper.

As a note added in proof, I sometimes shape abalone sea shell pieces for wood carving inlay, mostly as eyes. Spinning a stone grinding wheel at 900+rpm in the drill press. I use the rubber stick to clean the shell dust out of the stone. Each stone lasts 15-20 eyes or more. Without the rubber stick, each eye would plug up and ruin at least 4 stone grinding wheels. You do the math!


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I've found letting my ROS run down on a carpet sample helps keep the paper clean. I also never set it on the bench paper down even if it's not spinning. It's a great way to pick up something on the paper that scratches the wood.

Al


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Robson Valley said:


> Patience can be a virtue at times when a bigger hammer just isn't the answer.


 When a bigger hammer won't work, surly a shop press will get it done. If that still doesn't work it is time to bring out the cutting torch.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Riley
I'm guessing from your post that you want to prepare your old cabinet for paint and not to re-stain the cabinet. 
If this is the case, I recommend you use Liquid Sandpaper first. You can buy this at a Lowes or Depot. It will remove the oils that get on an old kitchen cabinet and prepare you for new paint. Just wipe on and wipe off. Use 150 grit sandpaper to lightly sand only where needed. No need to sand everything to raw wood if the old finish is still adhering well. 
Sand with the grain in all cases. 
Good luck.


----------



## Rileysan (Jun 15, 2015)

Thanks for the helpful tips! My biggest concern has been durability of the paper. The 3m sandpaper I am using tears with the greatest of ease. The Shopsmith brand sounds like it's worth a try, but I wonder if there are others that members here might recommend.

Brian


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

There is an oscillating "dock" for ROS to sit on, shut off, as they run down. Don't know how the guts are constructed but the sanders & docks don't move. Silent. The furniture shop down my street might be sanding for 30 days straight. They claim the ROS docks are so effective that you can ignore them.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Rileysan said:


> Thanks for the helpful tips! My biggest concern has been durability of the paper. The 3m sandpaper I am using tears with the greatest of ease. The Shopsmith brand sounds like it's worth a try, but I wonder if there are others that members here might recommend.
> 
> Brian



I guarantee you won't tear it. I also believe the grit is ceramic. 

Al


----------



## Rileysan (Jun 15, 2015)

I ordered the Shopsmith 9x11 sheets last night. In the meantime, I had ordered 5" sanding discs for my ROS. I just wrote a review on them here http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/shopsmith-5-ros-sanding-pads-102834/


Brian


----------



## ddsalt (Sep 8, 2015)

I've had good results with Mirka and Klingspor paper, mosly 5" ROS hook and loop but some sheets from Klingspor as well.


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

we used to buy from grizzly and the local hardware stores. then tried Norton for the ros and sheets. all I can say is wow! should have switched years ago.

higher initial price, but the paper lasts soooo much longer and cuts better.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It's not the fault of the sander. It will only do that when there is a loose splinter there anyway. I don't care for a quarter sheet sander because it runs slower and more likely to make swirl marks. On soft woods it also tends to sand out the soft wood between the hard parts of the grain giving a washboard texture to the wood. Once I started using a random orbital sander I quit buying quarter sheet sanders. Still if you are not careful if there is a loose splinter a random orbital sander will pick them up too. If you are having trouble with them being over aggressive use a finer grit paper.


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

". . . . clean up a few rough edges." Not smart enough to read and comprehend your first post.

Edges. Would not start with sand paper at all. Something mechanical like a fine rasp or a hand plane, spoke shave. . . . those kinds of things. Not a draw knife for consistent shavings unless you have lots of experience with one. Sandpaper last of all. Gently to kiss off the tool marks.


----------

