# Cutting Out A Hole For A Drawer...



## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

Hello all, 
Thought I'd run it by some more experienced woodworkers before I buy and test out different tools. My goal is to make a sofa table with a drawer. The drawer will be in the skirt of the table. I have to cut out a rectangle in the skirt...I'm used to cutting out "inner cuts" with a scroll saw but the scroll saw won't be an option this time around since the skirt length will be 30 inches. Only other tool I got is a crappy old jig saw that didn't do well in the test phase. What would you guys do to cut out that rectangle? What tool do I need? Would a better quality jig saw be any better? 

Thanks,
Joe


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

I wouldn't cut the drawer out from the skirt face as you are suggesting you'll do. Start with a board that is a little wider and longer than you need. Rip the top and bottom frame from the top and bottom of that board. Cross cut the ends of the frame from ends of the center piece that is left. Glue the frame pieces back together. Trim the center piece that is left to be the drawer face. Grain should still align. Color will match. Scroll and jig saws are NOT suggested here. I'd use my table saw with crosscut sled for all cuts. You should find someone who can cut the board up for you if you can't afford a table saw.


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## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

So you are saying to build the frame with 4 pieces (skirt cut up)to get my rectangle hole? Kinda like a face frame for cabinets? Only problem is the skirt is about 4 1/2 inches high and the top and bottom of the hole would only have 1/2 inches of wood, wondering of I would be able to glue the narrow 1/2 strips back up without being flimsy..1/2 seems too narrow for pocket hole screw... 

Skirt: 30 in long, 4 1/2 high
Rectangle hole in skirt: 10 in long, 3 1/2 in high...


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

a frame might be the way to go, but if you cant do that, I make the cut described with a table saw, lower the blade, position the board so the bottom of the blade will not extend beyond your cut line, raise the blade into the material. repeat on all sides. finish the portions of the cuts that the circular blades left with a hand saw or jig saw.

Alternatively, cut it all with a jig saw against a guide, sand it flat. or even use a flush cut router with a straight edge. Its just the corners that you cant easily perfect...


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## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

Would I be able to cut the rectangle hole out with a router, flush trim bit, and a template taped to the workpiece? I'd probably would have to get rid of most of the wood in the hole then right? Maybe jigsaw out most of it, then the flush trim bit...


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

If I had to do it, I would lay out the area that needs to be cut out. Drill a couple of holes inside of the lines. Use your jig saw to rough cut the opening leaving approx 1/8th inch of material that needs to be removed.

Then take four piece of 1/2 inch mdf and some double sided tape and stick the mdf around the outside of the frame. Use a router with a flush trim bit and follow the inside of the mdf edge. You should wind up with a nice clean opening that only requires a little clean up in the corners with a chisel.

Good luck.
Mike


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

I think what 4d suggested would be the "best" solution, if not the easiest. If you can live with a bit of a gap between the face of the drawer and the face of the table, the jigsaw would probably be easiest. You mentioned it failed testing, would you mind elaborating on that?

Last note, why wouldn't a scroll saw work? You mentioned the sides were longer that the throat depth, but many scroll saws I've used allow installing the blade sideways and making the cut perpendicular to the arms of the saw


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

JoeMemphis said:


> So you are saying to build the frame with 4 pieces (skirt cut up)to get my rectangle hole? Kinda like a face frame for cabinets? Only problem is the skirt is about 4 1/2 inches high and the top and bottom of the hole would only have 1/2 inches of wood, wondering of I would be able to glue the narrow 1/2 strips back up without being flimsy..1/2 seems too narrow for pocket hole screw...
> 
> Skirt: 30 in long, 4 1/2 high
> Rectangle hole in skirt: 10 in long, 3 1/2 in high...


The 1/2" should work just fine. no need for pocket holes just glue strips back on, this is a very common method of putting a drawer in an apron. It also gives you the added bonus of the grain matching.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The skirt of the table is there to prevent the top from sagging. If you cut a drawer hole in it you eliminate the purpose of the skirt and the top will sag. If you are going to do this you need to leave enough space at the top to screw a couple pieces of 3/4" angle iron to the top to structurally take the place of the skirt. As far as cutting the hole if you could remove the top you could drop cut it with a hand held circular saw and do the corners with a jig saw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*a completely different approach*

If you can, turn the table upside down and make a torsion box out of it by setting and gluing in place 4" pieces that would form the opening for the drawer. They should be 1/2" less wide than the skirt/apron.to allow for a plywood bottom to be set in after the grid is in place.

As stated above cut the opening with a jig saw, circular saw or just a hand saw, push or pull type. drill holes for the corners and start the saw in those holes.

Then after all the cross pieces and grid is in place cover the bottom with 1/2" ply to form the other skin of the torsion box. This will make a very strong structure. The plywood could be screwed in place if there is no room to install drawer slides OR just allow the drawer to run on HPL Formica, strips to reduce wear and friction. 

:yes:


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## Pauley (Jan 21, 2012)

Here is one that I made...like someone else said, rip the skirt length wise, you now have three pieces. Take the middle piece and cross cut your draw out of it and glue everything back together. If you have a think kerf blade, that would be best. That way you could use the piece for the draw front. I hope I explained this correctly. Look close at the picture and maybe you can see what I'm talking about.


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## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

Thanks for all the tips and advice. I think I'm going to go with cutting the skirt lengthwise on the top and bottom and then cut out the drawer opening and glue it back together. the only question I have is when I glue everything back together will I run into problems drilling Kreg pocket holes through the glued up pieces of the skirt?


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

To make a cut longer than the depth of the throat of your scroll saw, find the middle of the cut, and drill your starting hole there. Then put the blade in the scroll saw backwards, thread through the hole, and make the cut pulling the material toward you. Reverse the material to complete the cut. Max length of cut is double throat depth minus whatever you want to leave uncut on each end.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> The skirt of the table is there to prevent the top from sagging. If you cut a drawer hole in it you eliminate the purpose of the skirt and the top will sag. If you are going to do this you need to leave enough space at the top to screw a couple pieces of 3/4" angle iron to the top to structurally take the place of the skirt. As far as cutting the hole if you could remove the top you could drop cut it with a hand held circular saw and do the corners with a jig saw.


I have made tables in that size range and even larger that contained a drawer. They never required angle iron if at least 1/2 to 1" was above drawer.

The part of the skirt below the drawer also provides support.

George


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

JoeMemphis said:


> Thanks for all the tips and advice. I think I'm going to go with cutting the skirt lengthwise on the top and bottom and then cut out the drawer opening and glue it back together. the only question I have is when I glue everything back together will I run into problems drilling Kreg pocket holes through the glued up pieces of the skirt?


Forget about the pocket holes, the glue alone will hold it all together.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I would still put a plywood bottom on it*

A thin plywood bottom, 3/8" even 1/4" will add a whole lot of strength and won't even show. :yes:


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## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

Ok, I used the Rockwell Bladerunner which if you have never seen it is just a jigsaw upside down with it's own table. It's actually pretty smooth when cutting and cut out most of the opening and then finished up with a flush trim bit. Didn't turn out too bad. Now I can start to make my first drawer...


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Looking good there. I think youre the first person ive heard who actually has one of those bladerunners, how do you like it?


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## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

The Bladerunner is very good. I cut out a curved sign with it today and it has great control. Haven't tried it with any hardwoods but it cuts smooth...


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

JoeMemphis said:


> The Bladerunner is very good. I cut out a curved sign with it today and it has great control. Haven't tried it with any hardwoods but it cuts smooth...


Good to know, ive always been skeptical. Think ill still stick to the bandsaw though


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