# need help with boiled linseed oil



## woodmeistro (Jul 9, 2010)

I put 2 coats of boiled linseed oil on a oak cutting board top and after the second coat the finish is gummy in spots and some it is a nice oiled wood finish I was after, did I use the wrong finish for a cutting board, if so what is the correct one and how can I fix the top. I was thinking just sand it down , Please advise


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

oak is not a good wood for a cutting board. pours are deep and will collect bacteria. how soon after the first coat did you apply the second.
blo if straight should be left to dry for 4 or 5 days in between coats


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodmeistro said:


> I put 2 coats of boiled linseed oil on a oak cutting board top and after the second coat the finish is gummy in spots and some it is a nice oiled wood finish I was after, did I use the wrong finish for a cutting board, if so what is the correct one and how can I fix the top. I was thinking just sand it down , Please advise


Red Oak is a porous wood. White Oak is not. You didn't say which one it is. With what you've already done, clean the BLO off with mineral spirits. If anything use plain mineral oil.












 





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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

there are over 600 species of oak and although whgite oak is a little more dence, with a tighter grain there are several white oak species that are very pouris. one that comes to mind is chestnut oak.
anyway...i wouldnt use thinners on something your gonna cut food on. i use 100% tung oil on cutting boards, although you have to wait a couple of weeks in between coats for drying.


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

First of all, the oil which is not drawn into the wood after 20 minutes should be wiped off otherwise you will have that "gummy" effect. Repeat with new oiling/wiping until there are no dry spots anymore.

Boiled linseed oil will have less ability to penetrate the wood than raw oil. The boiling make the molecules larger. The benefit of boiled oil is that it dries must faster.

In general linseed oil is not suitable for items that are in contact with food. It will get the food a bad taste. Instead I use liquid paraffin for such items.

Also remember to dispose of your wiping rags in a safe way. Linseed oil is likely to self-combustion.


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## woodmeistro (Jul 9, 2010)

Thanks, I will try cleaning the sticky stuff off with MS and then go with mileral oil. Red oak was used because it was FREE, I acquired about 40 peices of 6/4 x 6'' x 6' a while back and am glad to use it up. I did let the first coat set for about 3-4 days and the second has been sitting now for well over a week. thanks again for the input


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

as cman said, mineral oil is the best choice for food prep wood finish. i wouldn't worry about the oak, studies find that the food handling is 99.9% responsible for the cutting board safety. and, the high quality cutting boards are end grain on the cutting surface, how much more porous can you get from a piece of wood.

http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingboard.htm


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

very interesting read tim thanx, although i have never seen and end grain cutting board


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

jack warner said:


> very interesting read tim thanx, although i have never seen and end grain cutting board


oh, I bet you have and just didn't think about it. Most professional cutting boards are end grain.

Here is a picture of one (of 12) I made for Christmas gifts last year...


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

that is very posible. i did a google search on pro cutting boards and didnt see any.
but thats a purdy one you have there


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