# Finishing Plan for end-grain Walnut Table



## spencerslade (Apr 19, 2014)

Hi all,

I'm a novice working on my first project -- a circular "cookie" cut black walnut slab that I plan to mount on a metal base for a small table. The slab I have is about 25" in diameter (incl. bark) and probably 1 3/4" thick. Since it came to me rough, I had it planed, then did my own (rather poor) filling of the small checks (none more that 1/4" thick) with an artist’s epoxy that dried close to clear, but did absorb into the wood a bit and darken the areas around the cracks. This is especially noticeable in the sapwood. I’ve accepted these discolorations and have sanded down to 150 in preparation for finishing. I’m looking for a relatively dark finish (hoping to obscure some of the discoloration), with a hard, durable, clear coat over top to withstand regular use. While I don’t expect this first project to be my last, I’m in an apartment and don’t have a dedicated work area or a particularly deep toolbox. Buying and using smaller quantities of materials is generally the preferred route for me. Based on reading here and elsewhere (including Flexner), below is my general plan. I’m hoping some of the experts here can help me revise my plan in light of my goals and (low) level of experience.

1. Because this is entirely end grain, I’m concerned with the absorption of any finish. I plan to sand to at least 400 before applying anything.
2. To help prevent absorption, it seems that I might want to apply a washcoat of shellac, maybe in a 1# cut, sanding afterwards with a 320-grit sanding sponge.
3. Next, I planned on using Formby’s Tung Oil finish. I realize that this is a varnish and may not even contain tung oil. My goal with it is simply to darken and add a bit of shine, so I was thinking about 2 coats, using the same sanding sponge in between and after.
4. To seal and add a bit more shine, I plan to use at least 2 coats of Minwax wipe-on poly.

I would love to hear if this sounds like a reasonable plan, and if not, what steps I should reconsider. As a complete rookie, all feedback is good feedback! Thanks in advance.
Spencer


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I bet if you wipe down the cookie with a solvent like mineral spirits the wood will be a uniform color. More than likely the epoxy you filled the cracks with has sealed the wood. A finish you apply should do the same thing and the spots disappear. If you plan to use the tung oil finish I would use that instead of using the shellac. The tung oil needs the open wood to get a bite into. As far as absorption, you could fill the grain with a pastewood grain filler. This would allow you to achieve a build quicker.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I think your plan will suffice just make sure you do it to BOTH sides of the slab. Only doing the top will force whatever moisture is left in the wood to dry through the bottom and it will completely destroy itself in the process.


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## spencerslade (Apr 19, 2014)

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm still thinking that some kind of sealing base layer is needed before I move into varnishing -- thoughts on paste filler vs. zinnsser sealcoat vs. mix-my-own shellac?

I'll definitely remember to do both sides, thanks for the tip.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

How dark is the discolouration from the resin ? 
Do you have a photo


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## spencerslade (Apr 19, 2014)

I'm away from home at the moment, but I'll post a photo tomorrow.

Objectively, it's probably not that bad -- it's just that I keep staring at, so it's very noticable to me!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

spencerslade said:


> Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm still thinking that some kind of sealing base layer is needed before I move into varnishing -- thoughts on paste filler vs. zinnsser sealcoat vs. mix-my-own shellac?
> 
> I'll definitely remember to do both sides, thanks for the tip.


 The pastewood grain filler would make the surface smoother so you don't see the texture of the wood. Even if you use it you should seal the wood with sealcoat before using varnish. If you plan to use any type of polyurethane be sure to use a de-waxed shellac like sealcoat. A varnish will adhere to standard shellac but not polyurethane.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

I have used resins , and super glue on cracks etc , in the same way you have , and by the time the wood was oiled and a finish applied , the darker wood had blended in


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## spencerslade (Apr 19, 2014)

Thanks for the guidance, all, the table is finished and looks fantastic!


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

spencerslade said:


> Thanks for the guidance, all, the table is finished and looks fantastic!


You can't tease us like that. Show us some pictures!!!


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## spencerslade (Apr 19, 2014)

Oh, will do! Finished late yesterday and had to take off shortly after. Will post pics when I get home Thursday.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

spencerslade said:


> Thanks for the guidance, all, the table is finished and looks fantastic!


What finish regimen did you use?








 







.


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## spencerslade (Apr 19, 2014)

2 coats of Zinnsser Sealcoat on the top, bottom and sides
2 coats of the Formby's Tung Oil Varnish (this didn't seem to have much of an effect -- I think the sealcoat did its job and the tung couldn't get a "bite" into the wood, as Steve described above) only on the top
4 coats of Minwax wipe-on poly, also only on the top

I did get some brush marks when working with the sealcoat using a cheap natural bristle brush (I probably overbrushed), but was able to sand some of that away with the 320-grit sponge I used between coats.


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## spencerslade (Apr 19, 2014)

pics attached


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## spencerslade (Apr 19, 2014)

and #2


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