# Need some help with Wood Turners Finish



## Waterboy12 (Nov 4, 2012)

As my turning has gotten better ive been venturing out and trying new finishes. I've been using Danish oil and antique oil a lot. But I'm very interested in getting a high gloss finish. A friend of mine gave me a bottle of Wood Turners Finish and as I was reading the directions I didn't really understand how it's supposed to be applied. Can anybody help me out?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

If you mean General Finishes Wood Turning Finish, then this may help.

No magic. Wipe on. Let dry. Apply more coats, then buff as desired.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/general-finishes-wood-turners-finish/

It seems the coats are thin so will need several.

If you want a friction polish, I have used this one. Several coats but fast to apply. More odour with this one though due to the solvent.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2001947/9593/mylands-high-build-friction-polish.aspx


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## Waterboy12 (Nov 4, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> If you mean General Finishes Wood Turning Finish, then this may help.
> 
> No magic. Wipe on. Let dry. Apply more coats, then buff as desired.
> 
> ...


Yea Dave that's the one. I guess I'll give it a go and see what happens


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I apply it on the lathe with the lathe spinning slow. My lathe only goes down to around 700 rpms. A bit slower would be better. The wood really soaks up the first couple of coats. I typically wind up using 6 or 8 coats letting it dry to the touch between coats, typically 3 or 4 minutes. Then I let the last coat dry for a couple hours and buff it on the Beal wheels. Ive had problems with ripples or "hills and valleys" as some say. I plan to try a light sanding of 1500 grit or so before buffing next time I use it.


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## Waterboy12 (Nov 4, 2012)

BassBlaster said:


> I apply it on the lathe with the lathe spinning slow. My lathe only goes down to around 700 rpms. A bit slower would be better. The wood really soaks up the first couple of coats. I typically wind up using 6 or 8 coats letting it dry to the touch between coats, typically 3 or 4 minutes. Then I let the last coat dry for a couple hours and buff it on the Beal wheels. Ive had problems with ripples or "hills and valleys" as some say. I plan to try a light sanding of 1500 grit or so before buffing next time I use it.


I've been doing some reading and I've found out to do 4 or 5 light coats fallowed by 600grit fallowed by 4 or 5 light coats and then again sand with 600 and then start the buffing process. I don't have the beal system but will try it with a coat of wax and a cloth.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I dont technically have a Beall system either. Mine is homemade. I think I have about 30 bucks in it. I use the Beall compounds though.

Thanks for the tips on the sanding, I'll give that a try. I really like the finish and would like it a whole bunch more if I could get a perfect finish from it.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Waterboy,
You can use a small square of t-shirt material or a foam brush to apply. Check after the first coat, it does tend to raise the grain a tad. Sand lightly to take off the fuzz, 600 grit is fine. Then apply more coats. Don't hold the t shirt on the piece to the point it starts to get tacky. You want to just apply a thin, wet coat. Leave the lathe spinning, it's designed to dry in a few minutes. The smoother you can apply it, the smoother it dries. If you want a shiny finish, do about 5 or 6 coats. GF recommends sanding after it dries with the micro mesh sanding system. It doesn't take much, just a light touch and go through all the grits. If you do that, you don't have to buff or wax. Here's a peppermill I used it on. 
Mike Hawkins


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