# Glue clean-up



## todd-leback (Oct 5, 2007)

It seems that one topic that is never discussed in woodworking books or articles is the best way to clean up glue squeeze-out from glue-ups (especially inside corners). Is it better to clean the glue out wet with a wet rag (and risk staining), wait till it skins over, or scraping after it has dried. Or is the best approach to tape the inside corners. I have tried all these approaches and would like some input on the best way that others have found.


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## BULLHART (Oct 30, 2006)

I wipe with a lightly damp rag, them use a soft dampened toothbrush. The toothbrush gets it all out of the nooks and crannys.

BULL


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## Tweegs (Sep 8, 2007)

Welcome Todd,
I have had reasonable luck using the tape method anywhere that would be difficult to clean up later. (i.e. inside corners of a box).
Even with the tape, I'll hit it with a damp cloth before things start to skin over.
Inevitably I'll discover a drop I missed that defies being sanded. In these situations I'll break out a small carving chisel and very carefully remove the glue.

Tweegs


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

After you gain some experience you will find that you can judge the amount of glue that is required in a joint. This will lead to very little squeeze out and enough glue to do the job correctly. On my style and rail doors I have learned to use an acid brush to spread out the glue on the end grain of the rail. I know just how much to apply and never get any squeezout in the inside corner or coped corner. It just takes time and you need to pay attention to what you are doing and remember how you do it. After a while it will become 2nd nature to you.


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 2, 2007)

Leo G said:


> After you gain some experience you will find that you can judge the amount of glue that is required in a joint.


I hope I get to this point soon, I'm sick of scraping dried glue!


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## woodboxs (Aug 17, 2007)

*inside connors*

When you put glue on any joint you should have only a little glue squeez out so there is just a very fine bead. Inside connors are tuff enough already but my exsperiance has been to put just enough glue so if any squeez out it is very little. But remeber the glue squeezing out lets you know that you have enough glue on the joint and remeber you should not have tons of glue comming out there should be very minmial squeez. The best way to clean glue is to clean it within the frist half hour or hour you do not want to let it get rock hard but you do not want touch it when it is wet an just sqeezed out let it get a fine skin on it it will still be wet under the skin it forms on the outside. An there will be very little stains on the wood to worry about. Hope this was of help an this is just my thoughs.


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## Kingfisher (Oct 14, 2007)

Shop tip for epoxies, West System expoxy, maybe others, will clean up with viniger just as well as anything. This is cheaper , non-flammable, non-toxic, and nicer on hands. Make sure that it will not react with the wood do to its PH.


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## todd-leback (Oct 5, 2007)

Denatured alchohol works as well, without the Ph problem.




Kingfisher said:


> Shop tip for epoxies, West System expoxy, maybe others, will clean up with viniger just as well as anything. This is cheaper , non-flammable, non-toxic, and nicer on hands. Make sure that it will not react with the wood do to its PH.


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## Kingfisher (Oct 14, 2007)

Yes but, the PH never has given me any problems just wanted to say it, don't wont someone telling me I ruined there prize peice. The viniger is cheaper and I never worry about the wet rags


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## Harddog Wood (Feb 9, 2007)

on 90 degree miters, I always use tape. On the outside, I try to wipe up with a damp cloth right away and I check it again about a half hour in to it. I would use the tape on the outside but I'm trying to move from super novice to scary novice.


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