# Table Saw Blade Height Gauge



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Anyone built their own table saw blade height gauge? I've seen a few commercially available ones but the thing I don't like about most of them is that they measure in a very small place, which can easily be between two teeth, or not at the highest point on a blade. Therefore.....I want to build that addresses these issues.


----------



## Bumpus (Aug 4, 2012)

Do you smell that? That's the smell of our next swap item! :thumbsup:

I'll be watching this post, I know exactly what you mean. I bought the kit of bars...other than making me look like I know what I'm doing, they don't help me at all.


----------



## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

I have this http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=31192&site=ROCKLER I like it, can be used in decimals or fractions. There are probably way better things out there but this one works very well for a table saw or a router table.
Good luck!


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Bumpus said:


> Do you smell that? That's the smell of our next swap item! :thumbsup:


I'm in!


----------



## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

My fence is very accurate so I have ripped dimensional (hardwood) lumber strips at 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4.I have these in lengths longer then my ts insert plate to assure an accurate height from the table. This has worked well over the years and I use these for my router also.


----------



## tonyuno (Jan 5, 2013)

Crusader said:


> I have this http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=31192&site=ROCKLER I like it, can be used in decimals or fractions. There are probably way better things out there but this one works very well for a table saw or a router table. Good luck!


I have a similar type and they are a good cheap investment.


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

There are a lot of ways to build a saw blade height gauge. They all involve building a bridge of some sort. You can measure the height by cutting dadoes, driving brass screws or using a cheap HF fractional caliper.

Build your bridge so that it spans the throat plate opening. You want to reference cast iron and not the movable throat insert.

What height range do you need? Probably nothing more than 3/4" but you can make it anything.

The caliper and dadoes are obvious. The brass screws are a bit obtuse. In the underside of the bridge, drive some brass screws partially into the bridge. You need to use solid brass screws and not just brass color screws. Be sure to drill pilot holes for the brass screws. Flat head screws seem to work the best for this.

Each screw will be driven a bit deeper than the previous screw as you calibrate the gauge. Take a 2x4 and square it on the table saw. You want the sides flat and the edges as close to square as your saw will cut. You're probably going to need to rip the 2x4 into 1" a square piece.

I'm making the assumption that we're starting with 1/4" depth. Set the fence so that there is zero clearance to the blade. Fiddle with the blade until you get exactly 1/4" depth cut. You can not do this with an ATB blade. The blade MUST be either a rip blade or a combination blade (ATB + R). (A stacked dado blade would work also.)

When you have an exact 1/4" cut, make a zero clearance cut in the 1" square piece of 2x4. Turn the piece over and slide the kerf under the brass screw. Adjust the screw until it barely touches the kerf. Repeat the process for all other depths.

Why brass? You don't want to be rubbing steel against carbide.


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Lots of ways to accomplish this.......but start with a search and understanding of a Starrett 995 shaper/planer gage.

What is so dang interesting(to me) is that some folks "reckon" these are metal working only gages?Uhhhh.....not.

Further....."Backlash" within the gear sectors needs to be understood WRT the TS's up/down drive system.But once you understand a few general principals.......and then are exposed to some creative solutions,it isn't that big of deal.Interestingly,some are guarded "secrets" within certain equip manuf.........IOW's,you'll play heck trying to find intel on certain backlash eliminators.I was exposed to them by doing repairs.Carry on.


----------



## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I don't care much about gauges, I care about the cut. Always have a little extra stock that is prepared the same as your work pieces, make a test cut, measure it, adjust as necessary, preferably sneaking up. Then you know the actual results. Probably the most important step of any set up, a test cut. This will account for any discrepancies, a tooth or cutter that isn't perfectly in line or any other issue a gauge won't tell you.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Hammer1 said:


> I don't care much about gauges, I care about the cut. Always have a little extra stock that is prepared the same as your work pieces, make a test cut, measure it, adjust as necessary, preferably sneaking up. Then you know the actual results. Probably the most important step of any set up, a test cut. This will account for any discrepancies, a tooth or cutter that isn't perfectly in line or any other issue a gauge won't tell you.


+1. :yes: Here we go again. Lets go out and buy some fancy gauge. Or, spend a lot of time developing some jig, and make it as complicated as possible.:laughing:


















.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

+ another 1 on a test cut. I set the blade to what desired height using a caliper. I then make a cut in a piece of scrap thicker than the height of the blade. I measure the slot and adjust the height. Make another test cut and repeat at needed.

Even if I had a fancy gauge I would not trust that I positioned the blade at the max height.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I hear ya, I usually set my fence with my caliper, and still usually perform a test cut, but virtually never have to make a second adjustment. That's what I'm going for here.


----------



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

It always surprises me when people think they need certain gadgets. The height gauge I use is called a tape measure. 

measure the height of the blade, make a test cut, check, adjust.

Bret


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I don't need one....but I'd like one. Again...If I can eliminate one or two test cuts per project...it ads up to real time. I'm not spending 50 bucks...this is a home build or nothing.


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I read this as setting the blade height not fence.

I normally calibrate my fence and check every now and again.

If you have a need to make exact width cuts and want a jig to tweak the fence, Matthias Wendel has a design if you have a dial indicator. I purchased one for blade/mitre slot/fence parallel calibration.

http://woodgears.ca/table_saw/fence_micro.html


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Nope....you read it right...I was just saying I set one axis with precision....I just want to do it on another axis as well.


----------



## subdajj (Mar 9, 2013)

I generally set my blade height using drill bits. I then do a test cut and check the depth.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The part I like about utilizing a caliper...dial indicator...ect.... Is the ability to creep up on the exact dimension without trial and error.


----------



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

If I had a height gauge it would just get lost in the clutter and I would still make a test cut. Thus, for me, knowing my work methods, a height gauge would just slow me down. No sale here.

Bret


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I have a caliper for measuring things. Seems accurate enough.
When I open the jaws, there's a long thin spine which comes out the other end.
Make a test cut with the TS. Extend that spine down into the cut.
When it bottoms out against the caliper frame = direct reading of the depth of the cut
at the jaw end. I'm done.
Same for measuring the precise(?) depth of drill bit holes. That's so I can drill a bunch of pilot holes in a wood carving to hog off almost exactly 7/8" wood ( or whatever.)


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

That's what I've been doing now...but I'm bound and determined to build a gauge that eliminates the need for a test cut...

I think I've worked out a design....now it's just a matter of putting the design into action.


----------



## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Wouldn't something like this be more repeatable than a gauge? Kind of like the drill bit suggestion, but a little easier.


----------



## Bastien (Apr 3, 2013)

I think I saw one in shop notes magazine earlier this year. I can look when I get home.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Thanks!!


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

I don't use one and there's several,60 or so feet away in the machineshop.

What goes on here is test cut method.BUT....we do a cpl "tricks" for repeatability.One is to mark right on the TS top with magic marker how many turns up the blade is.This is for casual use........it uses the handle on elev wheel as indicator.You find where the blade clears the table(downward)....and set the handle in the 12 oclock position.Then mark how many revs up to make this or that cut.Using the handle/clock method for repeatability.

That was casual usage.The next level of precision is to wrap tape around handle perimeter and mark EXACTLY where it is.An example might be "6 turns up,set @ #1 position on tape".Still written on top with marker.....it wipes right off with lac thinner.

But all this sees a craftsman always coming at the measure from the "up" side.If you overshoot the measure,clocking,or tape mark.....you'll need to lower the blade down,well past its mark.....and then sneak back up to it.That is backlash....and its done this way to preload the threads for repeatability.On CNC equipment,"ball screws" are used so that backlash is minimised.

So,one reason to use gages....whether or not your work demands such precision isn't the issue here(I can make way more $$ laying bricks or sitting at a Tig bench,both paling in comparison to even homeboy cabinet making precision) is that you've effectively taken backlash out of the equation.

Further,folks who talk smack about precision,more often than not have absolutely no experience in the subject.Precisionj in the form of a gage blocks is about as Fred Flintstone as it gets.....this is a good thing.You use marked "story poles" but won't use a dedicated gage block to set a TS?Oh well,like I said....we use the crank handle method here.And haven't measured but would easily hit .010" or better.


----------



## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I should take back my comment, wouldn't want to be a party pooper. Although, I haven't participated, yet, I think the tool swaps are awesome. Gives this place a sense of community. Just the same, if you have been around woodworking, you know that you had better check, double check and check again. The few seconds it takes is much less than having to remake a bunch of parts. Set up with a gauge if you like, but don't forget to verify by measuring the result. Who cares if that makes the gauge irrelevant when you are having fun.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Hammer1 said:


> I should take back my comment, wouldn't want to be a party pooper. Although, I haven't participated, yet, I think the tool swaps are awesome. Gives this place a sense of community. Just the same, if you have been around woodworking, you know that you had better check, double check and check again. The few seconds it takes is much less than having to remake a bunch of parts. Set up with a gauge if you like, but don't forget to verify by measuring the result. Who cares if that makes the gauge irrelevant when you are having fun.


+1. :yes: An excellent idea. Then all the gauges and jigs that are irrelevant can be kept together making up an impressive collection.








 







.


----------



## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> +1. :yes: An excellent idea. Then all the gauges and jigs that are irrelevant can be kept together making up an impressive collection.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have an impressively irrelevant collection!


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I use the 



 where applicable on the table saw and router table. Other times, I use a folding ruler and make test cuts.


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

I have the Kreg set up bars and they definitely have a place in my shop.

That being said there is no substitute for test cuts.

Trust but verify!!!


----------



## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

You guys crack me up, I swear for every question there's got to be at least thirty different answers and each of yours is way better than the next guys. 
You got the guy who laughs at the guy who uses a gauge who laughs at the guy who uses a stick who laughs at the guy who uses a drill bit who laughs at the guy who uses a tape measure.
Jeez louise! what a bunch of old crows.
Now don't get your bibs all in a bunch ,I'm just teasing.:yes:


----------



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

I try only to laugh at myself and to laugh with everyone else. 

Bret


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> Anyone built their own table saw blade height gauge? I've seen a few commercially available ones but the thing I don't like about most of them is that they measure in a very small place, which can easily be between two teeth, or not at the highest point on a blade. Therefore.....I want to build that addresses these issues.


I built one that works on the top tooth method. But I have in mind one that would touch on several teeth. It would have an ark in it. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Bumpus said:


> Do you smell that? That's the smell of our next swap item! :thumbsup:
> 
> I'll be watching this post, I know exactly what you mean. I bought the kit of bars...other than making me look like I know what I'm doing, they don't help me at all.


An excellent idea. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

BernieL said:


> My fence is very accurate so I have ripped dimensional (hardwood) lumber strips at 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4.I have these in lengths longer then my ts insert plate to assure an accurate height from the table. This has worked well over the years and I use these for my router also.


Hey Bernie
Do you stack them flat on the table?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Lola Ranch said:


> It always surprises me when people think they need certain gadgets. The height gauge I use is called a tape measure.
> 
> measure the height of the blade, make a test cut, check, adjust.
> 
> Bret


I've got a gauge I made that holds a steel rule 6" long. It's very fast and sets on the top on its own. I got Fs in tape measure.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

subdajj said:


> I generally set my blade height using drill bits. I then do a test cut and check the depth.


Oh I recall reading about that not too long ago. Great Idea. If I remember they can do a lot of setting.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Al - I lay the scrap pieces of lumber to measure the thickness they were ripped at so they define the desired height - the 1/8 or 1/4 etc thickness is flat on the table and spans the throat. Been doing this for many years and I just match the highest point of the circular blade to be level with the wood. I don't even measure the result because I know they are accurate... have been for years.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

BernieL said:


> Al - I lay the scrap pieces of lumber to measure the thickness they were ripped at so they define the desired height - the 1/8 or 1/4 etc thickness is flat on the table and spans the throat. Been doing this for many years and I just match the highest point of the circular blade to be level with the wood. I don't even measure the result because I know they are accurate... have been for years.


I'm going to have to cut some for myself. I have a drawer on my saw that would keep me from loosing them.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Chataigner (May 30, 2013)

I have a nice well worn block of oak that sits on the table astride the blade. It has a range of cuts made by creeping up on the value desired and checked with a micrometer. Each cut is clearly marked. 

To use it, I raise the blade while turning it slowly by hand. As soon as a tooth touches I know I'm pretty close. After that it all depends on the job. For tenons for example, I dont cut to a dimension, but to fit the mortice. The gauge just gets me somewhere near quickly. 

"Measurement is the enemy of accuracy !"


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Knowing your machine is what will achieve accuracy, it is more in how you set it than what you use to gauge it. Every machine will have quirks, there are a lot of factors that come into play, once the start button is pressed the blade setting may not be the same as when it was stationary, any slop, backlash or whatever will affect it, this has to be considered and is why a test cut is still necessary.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

FrankC said:


> Knowing your machine is what will achieve accuracy, it is more in how you set it than what you use to gauge it. Every machine will have quirks, there are a lot of factors that come into play, once the start button is pressed the blade setting may not be the same as when it was stationary, any slop, backlash or whatever will affect it, this has to be considered and is why a test cut is still necessary.


I agree....knowing my machine, I know as long as I've moved at least 1/4 turn on the handle, the measurement will be dead on every time....therefore I know a gauge will work perfect for my use. 


The point of this thread wasn't to debate the use of a gauge, it was to see what gauge designs people have built themselves as I know they exist out there.


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

....


----------



## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Chataigner said:


> ..."Measurement is the enemy of accuracy !"


Measurement is the BEGINNING of accuracy.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> +1. :yes: Here we go again. Lets go out and buy some fancy gauge. Or, spend a lot of time developing some jig, and make it as complicated as possible.:laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is certainly the best way. I use a combination square to get the first approximate setting. Often that first setting is right on.

George


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Chataigner said:


> I have a nice well worn block of oak that sits on the table astride the blade. It has a range of cuts made by creeping up on the value desired and checked with a micrometer. Each cut is clearly marked.
> 
> To use it, I raise the blade while turning it slowly by hand. As soon as a tooth touches I know I'm pretty close. After that it all depends on the job. For tenons for example, I dont cut to a dimension, but to fit the mortice. The gauge just gets me somewhere near quickly.
> 
> "Measurement is the enemy of accuracy !"


Agreed. I try to NOT measure as often as possible. I use a gage.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> I agree....knowing my machine, I know as long as I've moved at least 1/4 turn on the handle, the measurement will be dead on every time....therefore I know a gauge will work perfect for my use.
> 
> The point of this thread wasn't to debate the use of a gauge, it was to see what gauge designs people have built themselves as I know they exist out there.


Okay I went to my shop and took some picks of my gauge. I've been using this for well over 20 years. I can build a better one now.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*a similar idea*

I use a combination square to get close, very close. I do have a digital height gauge if I need thousands, but a test cut work better for me.


----------



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

I am objective and open to anything that will make me work better. I just haven't seen anything in this thread that convinces me that I can save time or do a better job if I were to use it. 

First of all, what are you measuring to? An alternate top bevel saw blade or a stacked dado both make cuts with bat's ears in the corners. For a dado, I suppose you are measuring to the tip of the bat's ear but the important measurement is the flat area, so you still have to make a test cut and adjust. My tape measure is the only tool other than a pencil that is always in my apron pocket so I don't have to go looking for my depth gauge and I don't have it laying on the saw table getting in my way (did I mention that I am clutter "challenged"). 

For most cuts on the table saw, no height/depth measuring is needed just make sure the saw blade is cutting a little higher than the work piece and my eyeballs work fine for that. For rabbets, dados, tenons some form of measurement is required. For me to set the fence on the correct width using the hairline indicator and then using my tape measure to set the depth as close as I can by cranking the the blade up or down takes about 5 seconds, cutting the test cut another 5 seconds (provided the scrap wood is handy), checking the test cut with my tape measure, 5 more seconds. I do not use the hook on the end of the tape for checking and sometimes use a tri-square. If my measurements show that I need to adjust the height of the saw blade then it might require another 15 seconds and if I'm having a bad day maybe another 15 seconds to repeat the procedure one more time. If I was relying on some sort of height gauge I'd still be looking for it after the first 45 seconds. Sometimes I do not remember to put my tape measure back in my pocket and that is why I have half a dozen tapes laying about the shop.

For cutting tenons, where you are using a ATB saw blade to cut both the shoulders and the cheeks, a depth gauge seems useless to me. I have usually cut the mortises first and I am fitting the tenons to that. I do have some pre-set jigs that allows me to cut some tenons without measuring but for any one-off work a perfect fit is something I sneak up on after a series of test cuts and checks.

Even though I have been doing woodwork since I was a little boy I still discover methods or techniques that improve or speed up my work. Maybe some one can enlighten me on this subject.

Note: even though I say I'm trying to get faster, I am actually getting slower. Age and not having to do it for a living any longer are the reasons. Sometimes I do things a certain way knowing it will take much longer but I just want to do it that way. If using height/depth gauges is the way you want to do it then I understand!

After all I think most of us are doing this for fun!

If anyone actually reads this far down this thread I'll be amazed!

Bret


----------



## sweet willy (Jul 17, 2013)

Holy crap! You guys measure stuff? Well that explains a lot.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Lola Ranch said:


> If anyone actually reads this far down this thread I'll be amazed! Bret


Be amazed....

So my point wasn't to convince non users.....a gauge is something I use, and am just looking for an improved version. I currently use my caliper upside down. Which is a bit slower and more cumbersome than it needs to be, but I cut a lot of tennons, and I'm confident in my set up abilities enough that I don't remember the last time the test cut wasn't spot on after the first measurement with the caliper....and by spot on I mean less than .01 off....which is the tolerance I've set for the work I do. 


Anyhow....if you don't feel a gauge will make your work more enjoyable.....then don't worry...I won't be offended....but I'm going to get this worked out....I'm confident in that.


----------



## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

This thread has been really interesting to read. I had no idea that there were so many specific ways to line up blade height. I've always been one to size up manually and then test cut until it is correct. I picked up an iGaging 6" digital fractional magnetic height tool (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?...campaign=PLA&gclid=COKcqvfdkLoCFWfhQgoddx8A3Q) for just $10 on closeout locally. I use it for both TS and router table and really enjoy the accuracey--but I still make test cuts anyway!


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Lola Ranch said:


> I am objective and open to anything that will make me work better. I just haven't seen anything in this thread that convinces me that I can save time or do a better job if I were to use it.
> 
> First of all, what are you measuring to? An alternate top bevel saw blade or a stacked dado both make cuts with bat's ears in the corners. For a dado, I suppose you are measuring to the tip of the bat's ear but the important measurement is the flat area, so you still have to make a test cut and adjust. My tape measure is the only tool other than a pencil that is always in my apron pocket so I don't have to go looking for my depth gauge and I don't have it laying on the saw table getting in my way (did I mention that I am clutter "challenged").
> 
> ...


Be amazed Bret,
So you don't use the hook? I can't read the tape in the first inch anyway.

One reason I use the gauge shown in a later post is to repeat the setting when going from one type of cut to another and then back to the cut requiring the set depth. 

Another is my gage is flat and sets on the saw and not just the insert plate. Some saws have really crappy inserts that are not the same height as the table where the wood actually rides.

Another is I can hold the gauge in my hands at a level easy to read while setting it. Unlike trying to read a tape bent over the saw. I know this is a faster method but understand your reason for not needing speed.

I never use a tape to set the table saw. I did enjoy your post and can relate to some of your points.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

sweet willy said:


> Holy crap! You guys measure stuff? Well that explains a lot.


Actually I try to measure as little as possible. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Al B Thayer said:


> I built one that works on the top tooth method. But I have in mind one that would touch on several teeth. It would have an ark in it.
> 
> Al
> 
> Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


How many animals will the ark accompdate?

G


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Al B Thayer said:


> Another is my gage is flat and sets on the saw and not just the insert plate. Some saws have really crappy inserts that are not the same height as the table where the wood actually rides.


It would be worthwhile to modify your ZCI to be flat to the table. All your material slides over it. Small narrow stock could be affected by either one that's too low, or too high. One that is too high could be a hazard.



Al B Thayer said:


> I never use a tape to set the table saw.


I like using my tape measure. My first new Unisaw was delivered and set up by two techs from Delta. I watched them use nothing more than a tape measure. 


















.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> How many animals will the ark accompdate?
> 
> G



:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

















.


----------



## Hackberry (Jul 4, 2013)

Read a tip years ago. Use a wooden zero clearance insert. Use a square to scribe a line across the insert to a blade tooth lined up with the top of the insert. You can label several lines at 1/8, 1/4, 5/16 etc.

If you use pencil I suppose you can erase for a different blade or resharpened blade. 

I get close, sneak up and measure the cut with a good steel ruler then lock the crank. I have never been able to guarantee the tooth is at 90 degrees to the table top. Close but not exact.

I also measure as little as possible. Trifocals are real pain sometimes.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

no response


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> It would be worthwhile to modify your ZCI to be flat to the table. All your material slides over it. Small narrow stock could be affected by either one that's too low, or too high. One that is too high could be a hazard.
> 
> I like using my tape measure. My first new Unisaw was delivered and set up by two techs from Delta. I watched them use nothing more than a tape measure.
> 
> ...


Well Cab I don't need to adjust my Unisaw either. My response was for the cheap contractor box store saws. If your going to start picking at my post best off if you give up. Your out of your league. I've butt heads with you before and this time I'm not going to play nice. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Al B Thayer said:


> Well Cab I don't need to adjust my Unisaw either. My response was for the cheap contractor box store saws. If your going to start picking at my post best off if you give up. Your out of your league. I've butt heads with you before and this time I'm not going to play nice.
> 
> Al
> 
> Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


Be my guest. I've got my opinion...you have yours. You're just not satisfied with that.








 







.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> How many animals will the ark accompdate?
> 
> G


George you will find many spelling errors in my posts.  Few in my hands and what they produce.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Be my guest. I've got my opinion...you have yours. You're just not satisfied with that.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Mark my words Cab. Best off if you ignore my posts. Seems you have a comprehension problem.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Hackberry said:


> Read a tip years ago. Use a wooden zero clearance insert. Use a square to scribe a line across the insert to a blade tooth lined up with the top of the insert. You can label several lines at 1/8, 1/4, 5/16 etc.


I like this one. I have similar marks on my fence for starting and stopping blind cuts. If you used a scratch awl then the marks would not wear off as fast.

Thanks, Bret


----------



## sweet willy (Jul 17, 2013)

Cabinetman. Al B. At first I was going to send you guys to your room. Then I thought you can settle your "little dispute" the old fashion way like manly men. You can have a duel! The rules will be you can both choose the handgun of your choice but instead of 40 paces you take 3 paces so neither one of you miss. That will end your "little dispute" in a manly way!

I don't care what anybody says, that there is just plain funny.


----------



## Hackberry (Jul 4, 2013)

Just watched Woodsmith Shop on PBS. Episode 612 Morris Chair.

The guys made a what looked like a 2 X 4 block with a large dowel hole bored length wise. The dowel looked about 3/4" or 1" with a flat spot on the side for a stick on tape measure. Cut flush on the bottom.

The block had the top corners nipped. Just set the block and dowel on your router bit and crank up. The also put a slot in the block so it could be used for a table saw blade.


----------



## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

Hammer1 said:


> I don't care much about gauges, I care about the cut. Always have a little extra stock that is prepared the same as your work pieces, make a test cut, measure it, adjust as necessary, preferably sneaking up. Then you know the actual results. Probably the most important step of any set up, a test cut. This will account for any discrepancies, a tooth or cutter that isn't perfectly in line or any other issue a gauge won't tell you.


I use digital micrometers for some things. The Wixley someone posted a picture of earlier in the thread is absolutely fantastic for repeating router bit depth for different jigs. I write the depth on the jig with a Sharpie for easy setup next time. The quote above saved me the trouble of explaining how I do it on the table saw. I might measure the depth of cut on the test piece with a micrometer if it needs to be that accurate, but to start I just get it close with a tape measure. Finding TDC takes up any time advantage using a gauge on the blade might save.


----------



## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

*It's simple enough*

First, scribe a line above the center line of the arbor on your TS, on the cast iron part, not the insert. (This must be accurate) Then adjust your (precision) tri-square to the depth you wish cut. Place the maximum outward tooth of the saw/dado blade even with the scribed center line you made in step 1. Place the square head on the outermost part of the saw/dado blade with the square blade on the cast iron of the TS. (You can use back lighting for this next part). Adjust the height of the blade till there is no light coming through between the square blade and the cast iron TS top. This will get you pretty close.
.
.
.
Then, like everyone else has said, *cut a piece of scrap and check it out. *


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

It's really hard to beat this guage. Yesterday I used it to set the depth of my dovetail bit. Makes it easy to see how much I have moved it. 









I can measure with it and transfer a measurement without knowing what it actually is. Like plywood. I think if you guys had one you would use it too. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


----------



## w1pers (Nov 27, 2013)

Your gauge looks interesting Al. Did you make that? Looks like you may have used a good old fashion metal ruler. I am intrigued. I may try to make one. Do u have plans for it?


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

w1pers said:


> Your gauge looks interesting Al. Did you make that? Looks like you may have used a good old fashion metal ruler. I am intrigued. I may try to make one. Do u have plans for it?


I made it about 25 years ago. The metal rule has lost most of the paint in the markings and I plan to replace it with a new one. Sorry I don't have a plan but maybe it could be found on the net.

To make the T slot. Cut a dado, then cover it with a thin piece of wood. Then cut a narrower dado. Then make the mating piece to fit. I don't think I used a dado blade. Just make a few cuts with the table saw blade. If you make it out of a longer and wider piece of wood it will be safer to handle in the saw. Then cut it down to size.

Glue it to the base and true it up. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Years ago, I made a simple gauge. Just a 2" x 2" x 12" (est) that is planed flat on one edge. Near the center, I cut 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", and 1" deep dados. 

Just lay across the table, above blade, and raise blade, until it raises the gauge, then, adjust, until it just touches it.

It worked great, until the shop absorbed it!


----------



## Hackberry (Jul 4, 2013)

Pirate said:


> It worked great, until the shop absorbed it!


 :yes::yes: I do understand


----------



## unclefester (Aug 23, 2013)

I prefer the Wixley for my router table but here is another product, the Incra gauge which I have used for set up as a story stick from Incra. 


http://www.incra.com/product_incragauge.htm


----------

