# Question about oil for old scroll saw



## Nurseryman33 (Apr 15, 2016)

I have a 1946 Delta Milwaukee 24" scroll saw. It tipped over and the oil leaked out. The manual says to use "lightweight winter grade automobile oil or Finol." What should I be looking for in the automobile oil aisle? Thank you to anyone who can help.


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

Finol is a European oil, here in the states you have a choice of 10w-30 or 5w-30 or 5w-40. 10w-30 is good for temperatures from 0 degrees to 120 degrees, 5w-30 and 5w-40 are good for temperatures of -30 to 120 degrees. 10w-30 and 5w-30 should be readily available. I do know that a lot of 5w-30 oils are synthetic which I would NOT use in a machine that old because there is a possibility it may deteriorate any rubber seals inside. I would stick with regular 10w-30 oil unless you live in extreme cold temperatures.

What you need to be looking for in the automobile isle. You will see all of the bottles will all be different colors and will look very confusing but don't get overwhelmed. First will notice all the oils are grouped together buy brand names (castrol, pennzoil, mobil,etc) for what you need, in my opinion, the brand doesn't matter I just wouldn't get Walmart special oil. In that group of brands there will be a bunch of different color bottles, this where you need to pay attention.You will see all of the bottles have the "weights" written on them 10w-30, 5w-30,10w-40,etc. Look for any bottle that has 10w-30 written on it. Now read the front of the bottle further and see if it says, synthetic, hi performance, extreme duty, off road or anything like that. If it does put it back. What you are looking for is a bottle that says 10w-30 motor oil, nothing more


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

dirty-curty said:


> Finol is a European oil, here in the states you have a choice of 10w-30 or 5w-30 or 5w-40. 10w-30 is good for temperatures from 0 degrees to 120 degrees, 5w-30 and 5w-40 are good for temperatures of -30 to 120 degrees. 10w-30 and 5w-30 should be readily available. I do know that a lot of 5w-30 oils are synthetic which I would NOT use in a machine that old because there is a possibility it may deteriorate any rubber seals inside. I would stick with regular 10w-30 oil unless you live in extreme cold temperatures.
> 
> What you need to be looking for in the automobile isle. You will see all of the bottles will all be different colors and will look very confusing but don't get overwhelmed. First will notice all the oils are grouped together buy brand names (castrol, pennzoil, mobil,etc) for what you need, in my opinion, the brand doesn't matter I just wouldn't get Walmart special oil. In that group of brands there will be a bunch of different color bottles, this where you need to pay attention.You will see all of the bottles have the "weights" written on them 10w-30, 5w-30,10w-40,etc. Look for any bottle that has 10w-30 written on it. Now read the front of the bottle further and see if it says, synthetic, hi performance, extreme duty, off road or anything like that. If it does put it back. What you are looking for is a bottle that says 10w-30 motor oil, nothing more


*Myth #3: Synthetic engine oils can wear down seals in an engine and cause leaks.*
This is an often-cited myth. In fact, if your seals and gaskets are in good condition, synthetic oil will not leak in your engine. Synthetic oil has not been shown to deteriorate engine seals or gaskets. But it might find an existing leak. The smaller molecules of synthetic oil are able to pass through very small cracks and crevices that the larger molecules of petroleum-based oil cannot. Eventually, those small cracks and crevices can lead to bigger problems — with or without synthetic oil.


I always select a synthetic oil when/where available.


George


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

In any application with a sump you should use non-detergent oil. Detergent oil is designed to carry contaminants in suspension to a filter, with a sump you want them to drop to to the bottom.


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

I have been using straight 30 weight engine oil in my 1950 Delta 24" scroll saw since around 1970 when my grandfather willed all of his tools to me (he bought the saw new). I know what he used because the left sideplate developed a slow leak and there was a used quart on the stand under the saw when I went to load up his shop. I added oil from that very jug periodically for many years (I always kept the table and saw wiped clean so the leak and sawdust mix didn't turn to goop). 

I finally repaired the leak in, oh, 1985 maybe? Cut a new gasket for the side, slapped it on, bought a new jug of 30 weight and filled er up. Still purring like a kitty cat today. Even the blower still works like a charm.

I do wish the blade was a bit easier to change though. Makes intricate puzzle work a little aggravating at times!

Thanks Grandaddy.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Shop_Rat said:


> I have been using straight 30 weight engine oil in my 1950 Delta 24" scroll saw since around 1970 when my grandfather willed all of his tools to me (he bought the saw new). I know what he used because the left sideplate developed a slow leak and there was a used quart on the stand under the saw when I went to load up his shop. I added oil from that very jug periodically for many years (I always kept the table and saw wiped clean so the leak and sawdust mix didn't turn to goop).
> 
> I finally repaired the leak in, oh, 1985 maybe? Cut a new gasket for the side, slapped it on, bought a new jug of 30 weight and filled er up. Still purring like a kitty cat today. Even the blower still works like a charm.
> 
> ...


Ditto on the non-detergent straight 30 weight. I have a 1944 24" Delta that I restored a couple of years ago and it's one smooth running saw.


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## Nurseryman33 (Apr 15, 2016)

Thank you all for your help. This was also my grandfather's saw, and I want to get it running for my daughter.


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## dahrgb (Jul 2, 2017)

Thank you for this post. I am restoring one as well, and was curious about the oil. I am also struggling with the blades and guides. How small of a blade works in this saw? Do you have the guide behind the blade or on the right side? If you can take a picture, that would be helpful.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

dahrgb said:


> Thank you for this post. I am restoring one as well, and was curious about the oil. I am also struggling with the blades and guides. How small of a blade works in this saw? Do you have the guide behind the blade or on the right side? If you can take a picture, that would be helpful.



Those old saws (I have one too) won't use the fine blades the parallelogram jig saws use, the older ones use a spring for the return stroke instead of the upper arm pulling it back and keeping it tight

The blade guide roller is in the rear of the blade to stop it from deforming when you cut


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