# NEW Member: Live Edge Table Project (PICTURE), advice appreciated



## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Hey Gang, glad to be a member . Ive purchased a Pine live edge slab that i would like to create a table top for a side table. Ive got a few questions.











1) I know there can be pests,termites or worms in the wood, how do i make sure there are non before introducing this piece into my house, will refinishing,staining kill them? 
2) What is a good way to sand or smoothen down the wood.
3)What should i use for stain, seals varnish etc. My father is very good with this kind of stuff so i can have him help me.
4) Anything else i cant remember now?


I would greatly appreciate any help, any pointers and advice. I look forward to this project and posting up progress pictures.

Thank you.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

First off, Welcome to the club. 
Usually if there is any critters in the wood you find out about it pretty quickly. You will see little piles of wood dust under the plank where they are burrowing in it. Termites will come out and you will see them crawling around. Normal working of the plank and finishing will do nothing to the insect population if it has any. If you can determine that the plank has bugs then the plank needs to be heated in some way to kill them. Off hand I can't think of a way for plank of that size unless you would use one of these cylinder kerosene heaters. 
Before proceeding, how long has it been since the plank been cut from the tree. I would wait until it is thoroughly dry before working it. Normally that is roughly a year for every inch of thickness. As far as sanding the easiest way would be if you knew someone that had a drum or timesaver sander. You could also do it with a hand held belt sander starting with a 40 grit belt and finishing with a 80 grit belt. Then final sanding could be done with an orbital sander. The final grit would depend on what type of finish you use. If you are going to just use polyurethane I would sand it through 180 grit. Some people use a pour on epoxy finish. With the pour finish probably sanding through 100 grit paper would be good enough. They make a clear filler you could first fill the cracks in the plank and then use the epoxy to topcoat it all.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Steve, thank you for the response, i will have to look out for any evidence of critters, the wood is dry, bone dry actually, i will work with a sander and try to get it smooth i guess. The finish i am going for is a semi gloss look, and more of a darker stain, not high/thick gloss. Also i don't want to fill the cracks, it adds character. So what finish should i use for this? Thanks again.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think in the long run you will want to fill the cracks but that is something that be done later if you change your mind. A crack like that in a table top will be hard to keep clean. It will accumulate food crumbs and if you have young children they will stick everything in the cracks. I use Sherwin Williams finishes so I would recommend the Wood Classics stain and the Wood Classic interior polyurethane varnish. Be sure you varnish the underneath side also. If you just varnish the top and not the bottom the top may warp.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you want to dress the top yourself, you might want to keep it flat. You can make your own sanding blocks *(like these)* by using sanding belts for handheld belt sanders. They come in 3"x18", 3"x21", 3"x24", and 4"x24", in a variety of grits. Using a block made with any substrate you have laying around used in line with the grain will maintain a flat surface.

For a fine sanded finish prior to applying a topcoat, a random orbit sander (ROS) will provide a nice surface. You could use an interior oil base varnish, or an oil base polyurethane, either reduced 50/50 for the first few applications. 

If you can spray, you could use a lacquer sanding sealer, and lacquer. Or, you could use a waterbased polyurethane.











 







.





http://i39.tinypic.com/11l0y2u.jpg


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## Horatio (Apr 4, 2012)

One thing I discovered upon doing this type of work is that you have a large surface and as your sanding, take notice of how much material you're removing as you do so. It could come out real lumpy if you lay into one section and then move on. Maybe hit it with a big jack plane? need more experienced posters to confirm that. 

Filling the cracks can really be an opportunity to make the piece pop. I've seen alot of inlays with things like turquoise (used alot with mesquite because they originate in the same region) for example though with pine, turquoise might be a little weird. 

If you get a a good surface from sanding, you could just hit it with Tung oil or Danish oil. I did a mesquite table like this a few weeks back and while the joinery and support are rather amateurish...and the surface is a tiny bit lumpy, the surface looks good. I didn't fill cracks because, well, I'm a noob but at least maybe less so since then.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/mesquite-bench-40828/


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I think the "traditional" method would be planing and scraping.

I visited George Nakashima's place in New Hope, PA a few months ago and got to talk to his son. I asked about how they got the slabs flat and the answer was planing and scraping. Takes a lot of work.

Take a look at George's site if you want some inspiration.
http://nakashimawoodworker.com/

As Horatio stated, whatever you do to get this flat, pay attention to the level. It is so easy to get an uneven surface.

You can also make a sled for a router supported by straight rails, and then use this to get roughly flat, followed by planing/scraping/sanding.

Horatio mentioned about filling in some of the gaps. This can result in a very attractive piece.

There is a product called In-Lace which turners use to add decoration.
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...=packard&Category_Code=proj-supp-inlay-inlace

Here is an example of the turquoise in a recent board I made.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> I think in the long run you will want to fill the cracks but that is something that be done later if you change your mind. A crack like that in a table top will be hard to keep clean. It will accumulate food crumbs and if you have young children they will stick everything in the cracks. I use Sherwin Williams finishes so I would recommend the Wood Classics stain and the Wood Classic interior polyurethane varnish. Be sure you varnish the underneath side also. If you just varnish the top and not the bottom the top may warp.



Hey Steve, actually there will be no food on this table, its a side table that will go next to my entry door, so i think the cracks can stay? however do you see the saw/chainsaw cut at the edge there? i think i would like to fill that area, what do you think. I will most definitely do both sides. Thanks again. :thumbsup:


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> ​
> 
> If you want to dress the top yourself, you might want to keep it flat. You can make your own sanding blocks *(like these)* by using sanding belts for handheld belt sanders. They come in 3"x18", 3"x21", 3"x24", and 4"x24", in a variety of grits. Using a block made with any substrate you have laying around used in line with the grain will maintain a flat surface.
> 
> ...



Thank you ... . I plan on using a machine sander, my father has a few different kinds, hes also got a spray gun so we have access to that stuff. Thank you.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Horatio said:


> One thing I discovered upon doing this type of work is that you have a large surface and as your sanding, take notice of how much material you're removing as you do so. It could come out real lumpy if you lay into one section and then move on. Maybe hit it with a big jack plane? need more experienced posters to confirm that.
> 
> Filling the cracks can really be an opportunity to make the piece pop. I've seen alot of inlays with things like turquoise (used alot with mesquite because they originate in the same region) for example though with pine, turquoise might be a little weird.
> 
> ...




What exactly do you mean by "pop", and what is turquoise? Thank you.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> I think the "traditional" method would be planing and scraping.
> 
> I visited George Nakashima's place in New Hope, PA a few months ago and got to talk to his son. I asked about how they got the slabs flat and the answer was planing and scraping. Takes a lot of work.
> 
> ...




Thank you, but im not sure i like the colored filling. You know my moms cousin owns a nice shop with all the tools needed, and has a nice large planer, maybe i should just have him do it :yes:. Ive seen filled cracks that are resin? how about that?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

V-wiz said:


> Thank you, but im not sure i like the colored filling. You know my moms cousin owns a nice shop with all the tools needed, and has a nice large planer, maybe i should just have him do it :yes:. Ive seen filled cracks that are resin? how about that?


You can fill the cracks with clear epoxy. The In-Lace products just add pigments.

Just select the epoxy which will have sufficient working time for your needs.

If you do intend to stain, you need to mask the areas next to the cracks so that the epoxy does not get into the other areas, since it will seal the wood and prevent accepting any stain.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> You can fill the cracks with clear epoxy. The In-Lace products just add pigments.
> 
> Just select the epoxy which will have sufficient working time for your needs.
> 
> If you do intend to stain, you need to mask the areas next to the cracks so that the epoxy does not get into the other areas, since it will seal the wood and prevent accepting any stain.



Makes sense, so far i dont want to fill the cracks, i like the more rustic look, but ill look into it. Thank you.


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

I just did three slab benches for a cultural centre/ art gallery. They were 8/4 and12/4 cherry 8 feet long by 15 inches or so wide.
I used a cheap power hand planer to remove the bulky areas to flattish. I removed the bark with a air hammer chisel. Then sanded with a 4x24 belt sander 80- 180 grit. Then i used a ROS to 320 grit. The sides only got the ROS sanding to keep the natural edge. Any critters were in or under the bark. I had dried them for 3-4 months in a shed. If I was worried about deeper insects, I would have put the slabs under a plastic sheet in the sun for a day or two to cook them.
I did it outside in a tent garage with a breeze. 
I filled a few large knot holes and a crack with West System epoxy with a bit of Cherry sawdust mixed in as a filler prior to the belt sanding.
The bottom was only rough sanded and a couple of flat wide grooves routed with a jig for the leg attachments.
Each took most of a day.
Finished with antique oil (min wax) they look great.
If the top was too rustic for eating you could have a piece of glass or lexan cut to top it. Maybe power washing and air blasting the cracks would be good.
Good luck
Bob


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## Horatio (Apr 4, 2012)

Just 'pop' as in eye catching, as in Dave's piece above. Turquoise is a semi-precious stone that is native to the southwestern US, used alot by native Americans for jewelry and whatnot. Again, Dave's piece has some in it. There are videos on youtube on application and use of it.

That 'Inlace' stuff looks really cool but I'm cheap and I like to do things the hard way. I have an experiment underway casting some crushed up quartz crystals in resin. Its set up and looks decent. I'll let you know how it looks after I finish it.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Normally I work with live edge and bark on pieces. They have their unique beauty and challenges.

A piece like that will take massive sanding to get down to a workable surface. I would find someone with a planer to bring the surface down. As far as cracks, they like to continue, especially if the wood isn't dried down to 10% or less moisture. Epoxy acts as a glue as well as fills the cracks, and bonds the cracks and I also use it for bonding bark edges in place.It's tricky to work with, but the best way for crack filling. Doing the crack fill later is asset backwards. That is the starting point.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

V-wiz said:


> Hey Steve, actually there will be no food on this table, its a side table that will go next to my entry door, so i think the cracks can stay? however do you see the saw/chainsaw cut at the edge there? i think i would like to fill that area, what do you think. I will most definitely do both sides. Thanks again. :thumbsup:


I think the saw cut would be considered a defect in what you are doing. If it were me I wouldn't stop sanding until it was removed. If you use a 40 grit sanding belt to rough it out it should work down fairly quickly. Also if you sand across the grain it will sand faster. When you get down to finer grit belts sand with the grain to get rid of the scratches made with the 40 grit belt. Anytime you sand with a belt sander you should keep the sander moving around the top and work the sander in a oval motion to make the wood as flat as possible. You'll never get it perfectly flat however you should be able to get it to where nobody can see the dips in it when finished. You could use framing square as a straight edge and drag it around the top to get an idea of how flat you have the top. A chunk of wood that big needs a wide belt sander such as a timesaver sander to really get it flat. For about 15 grand and if you have three phase you could get one. :laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Using a handheld belt sander it's very easy to leave small divots in the wood from the rollers. You won't likely see them until you topcoat.









 







.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Using a handheld belt sander it's very easy to leave small divots in the wood from the rollers. You won't likely see them until you topcoat.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well lets get realistic. He's probably looking at a minimum of 3 hours grinding with a 40 grit belt to get that top just surfaced. Sanding it with a sanding block would probably take 3 years. Granted a hand held belt sander will make divots however a proper follow-up with a orbital sander should take care of it.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Midlandbob said:


> I just did three slab benches for a cultural centre/ art gallery. They were 8/4 and12/4 cherry 8 feet long by 15 inches or so wide.
> I used a cheap power hand planer to remove the bulky areas to flattish. I removed the bark with a air hammer chisel. Then sanded with a 4x24 belt sander 80- 180 grit. Then i used a ROS to 320 grit. The sides only got the ROS sanding to keep the natural edge. Any critters were in or under the bark. I had dried them for 3-4 months in a shed. If I was worried about deeper insects, I would have put the slabs under a plastic sheet in the sun for a day or two to cook them.
> I did it outside in a tent garage with a breeze.
> I filled a few large knot holes and a crack with West System epoxy with a bit of Cherry sawdust mixed in as a filler prior to the belt sanding.
> ...



Thanks for the advice Bob.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Horatio said:


> Just 'pop' as in eye catching, as in Dave's piece above. Turquoise is a semi-precious stone that is native to the southwestern US, used alot by native Americans for jewelry and whatnot. Again, Dave's piece has some in it. There are videos on youtube on application and use of it.
> 
> That 'Inlace' stuff looks really cool but I'm cheap and I like to do things the hard way. I have an experiment underway casting some crushed up quartz crystals in resin. Its set up and looks decent. I'll let you know how it looks after I finish it.



Great thanks.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Thanks alot for all the help guys. Hopefully i can start this asap.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> Well lets get realistic. He's probably looking at a minimum of 3 hours grinding with a 40 grit belt to get that top just surfaced. Sanding it with a sanding block would probably take 3 years. Granted a hand held belt sander will make divots however a proper follow-up with a orbital sander should take care of it.



The top looks pretty flat from what I can see in the picture. Taking 3 years...that's funny...nice try. If in fact the top isn't that flat, I wouldn't use a sanding block, and for sure I wouldn't suggest a handheld belt sander. I would get it passed through a planer or a wide belt sander.










 







.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Another approach would be to make the table out of the slab as it is. 
It might look just great inside your door as is. You could sand the surface by hand with fine paper, just to eliminate the fuzz. 
Sometimes a surface other than plasticky-smooth is a good change.


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## Horatio (Apr 4, 2012)

JBSmall said:


> Another approach would be to make the table out of the slab as it is.
> It might look just great inside your door as is. You could sand the surface by hand with fine paper, just to eliminate the fuzz.
> Sometimes a surface other than plasticky-smooth is a good change.


That's a good thought. 

With one I did, I sanded with an angle grinder then a disc on a drill and then jack planed some of the humps out and turned the kids loose with the Mouse. It took a long time but it came out pretty decent. The supports and joinery on it suck but oh well, the top looks cool!

Here again, there is a world of difference between different woods. Pine is soft, mesquite is like iron. So..../shrug.Sanding won't take as long, I expect.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Thanks guys, the plank is cut fairly straight but as it has dried the one edge has bowed And doesnt lay straight. How would that come out if put into a machine for planing/sanding?


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

If you set the planer to take a very shallow cut, and flipped it with each pass, it would come out fairly flat eventually. 
If you tack thin scraps to one side first to fake a flat side, using winding sticks and straightedge to check, then you can send it through until the other side is flat, remove the scraps, and do the other side.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Little Update: I purchased a Belt Sander from Harbor Freight Tools for 29.99 and 80 Grit belts, it worked great. Total time was about 1 hours or maybe less, its fairly smooth, i plan on going over it with finer paper, any suggestions on what number?, also i do plan on leaving the live edges just the way it is. Any ways here are the 
photos.


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## Horatio (Apr 4, 2012)

I don't think you need to go for a glassy surface so not too fine but I'd at least work up to 220, maybe 320. 

Looks cool. The cracks are what they are. All you can do now is leave them as a rustic feature or try to fill them somehow but I'd probably leave them.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Thanks, yes i am leaving the cracks


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Looks good!
Is there some way you can design-in a use for the saw-cut? Tie it to the base somehow? 
Sometimes flaws like that lead to the coolest design-elements....because you would never think them up on your own....


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

JBSmall said:


> Looks good!
> Is there some way you can design-in a use for the saw-cut? Tie it to the base somehow?
> Sometimes flaws like that lead to the coolest design-elements....because you would never think them up on your own....



Hmm, im not really sure, ill take a pictures of the table/feet so you can see what im working with. Maybe i can get some ideas for the members?

Thank you.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Hey Gang, So here is that table the live edge piece will sit on top of. This table was purchased from a antique store for $30, its rusted naturally, however i do plan on making it rust even more and adding some patina agents.


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## Horatio (Apr 4, 2012)

I don't know but that's an awesome find for supports.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Horatio said:


> I don't know but that's an awesome find for supports.



I agree


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Yes. 
Maybe some kind of rusty scroll could come up through the sawcut to tie them together




visually


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

JBSmall said:


> Yes.
> Maybe some kind of rusty scroll could come up through the sawcut to tie them together



Im not able to imagine that... The wood is larger than the table itself, so that saw cut wont actually be sitting on-top of the iron table.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

V-wiz said:


> Im not able to imagine that... The wood is larger than the table itself, so that saw cut wont actually be sitting on-top of the iron table.


 Hey, sometimes a sawcut is just a sawcut. 
It's just that sometimes by meditating on a 'flaw', an idea comes and transforms the piece. 
Keep up the good work.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I've got a question. 
What's the other side of the slab look like?
Does the saw cut show on the other side?
Maybe you could just flip it over. 
Or just buck it off. 
Show pics of the other side.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Dominick said:


> I've got a question.
> What's the other side of the slab look like?
> Does the saw cut show on the other side?
> Maybe you could just flip it over.
> ...


True...the other side may have more useful surface...this side has a large wane at one end....


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I typically like the look of the live edge in that position. The Wayne to me adds character. 
Just thinking if he doesn't want the cut, then he could flip. It's a personal preference.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Hey guys, the saw cut is on both sides actually, plus the side ive been working on is much nicer, the live edge shows more and the grain is alot nicer


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

I actually dont mind the cut at all, like you said it adds character. Im hoping i can stain and finish it saturday. Will report back with more pictures once that is done


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

It will be a cool place to plop stuff inside the door, whatever you do to the surface.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Over the weekend i was able to sand the surface down with #120 sand paper then stained it. I'm not to crazy with the stain, its a bit dark, or at least the live edge's/Wayne came out dark, how should i lighten the edges? sand it a bit? any other suggestions?


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Sand the whole thing. Get as much of the stain out as you can, and wet it with alcohol to see how it looks. The stain in the crevices will make it rich-looking, but it makes the entire surface look kind-of dirty, doesn't it?

Wane, like what the moon does...


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

JBSmall said:


> Sand the whole thing. Get as much of the stain out as you can, and wet it with alcohol to see how it looks. The stain in the crevices will make it rich-looking, but it makes the entire surface look kind-of dirty, doesn't it?
> 
> Wane, like what the moon does...



Are you suggesting re-staining it or bringing it back to its natural color?


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

I'm just suggesting that you manipulate the surface until you like it.
I'd sand and take a look at it wet, with alcohol or thinner, and probably start finishing it . Natural is always good.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

JBSmall said:


> I'm just suggesting that you manipulate the surface until you like it.
> I'd sand and take a look at it wet, with alcohol or thinner, and probably start finishing it . Natural is always good.



Im all ears and willing to take any advice.. As id like it to look better. So i would take any suggestions. Thanks.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Another look at the last photo looks pretty good. Just try wetting that with alcohol to get an idea how it will look...it might come out fine as is.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I would of just clear coated it to bring out the grain. Stain covers the beauty.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

GRRRR, really don't know what to do with it now.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Let it dry real good and sand it by hand with 220.
Wet it and see if you like the look.
You will.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Well Gentlemen, i did just that, i couldn't take it, I didn't like the look, it looked dirty, like JBSmall said. I got home from work and got the orbital sander and went at it with #120 sand paper. I also added my own touch to the live edges. Tell me what you guys think. I plan on leaving it natural but when we spray with the clear/finish coat i want to add just a tad bit of stain or tint. Since this is Pine it will come out slightly yellowish, true? and id like it to be more on the redish/brown tone.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

As you can see from the previous photo i posted after staining the live edges are really dark and boring.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

It's not boring


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Looks like the original way you had it to begin with.


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

There's so much going on withe the natural weathering and the irregularity of the piece, it would be good not to add any stains. Just put on a protective coat of varnish and enjoy it. I still favour a oil surface in the wood with minimal buildup. 
I did ROS the benches to 320 and oil/ varnish with minwax antique oil. Makers a beautiful and very tactile surface.
Bob


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Yes the surface is the same but the edges are even better. So I should use minwax antique oil and thats it? Thanks guys


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

I'd use their wipe-on poly.
Either way you're in for sticky fingers.
Lookin good, by the way!


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

So i think ill pick up a Antique oil finish (still need to do some research). Before doing this what are the preparations that i need to do, id like to wipe the surface to remove the fine dust, should i use a damp cloth? air blower will follow. Thanks again


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

Always remember that oil finishes can be touched up easier in the future. Once poly has cures another coat does not bond other than a weak mechanical bond. Poly is slightly ore water resistant. I prefer to use poly only when there will be little or no wear like on a decorative box.
They both pad or wipe on about the same. If its in weather at all a "spar" finish has better UV and movement properties.
Bob


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

V-wiz said:


> So i think ill pick up a Antique oil finish (still need to do some research). Before doing this what are the preparations that i need to do, id like to wipe the surface to remove the fine dust, should i use a damp cloth? air blower will follow. Thanks again


Just wipe with a dry rag and/or vacuum.
Wiping-off the residual antique oil will remove dust, and even some of the stain from pores and crevices.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Denatured alcohol and a clean terry cloth. 
And it dries fast.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Well guys, since i live in California, and the area i live in is very strict with air quality, i cant find this product anywhere here. They don't sell it


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

For there: vodka.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

JBSmall said:


> For there: vodka.



Lol, why waste vodka when you can use Thinner.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

If they don't sell denatured alcohol, do they sell 'thinner'?
Drink the vodka for a better looking finish.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

JBSmall said:


> If they don't sell denatured alcohol, do they sell 'thinner'?
> Drink the vodka for a better looking finish.


Or drink it after you finish, for celebrating.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

They dont sell the Minwax antique oil, They DO sell thinner. lol


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Watco would be great on the flat surface.
You flood the surface and sand with 220 wet-or-dry. It fills and seals. 
You might like that.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Update: i ordered the oil from another county, i should pick it up in 2 days


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

AAAHH. Well it turns out they couldnt get the minwax antique oil. Can i just use Danish oil from home depot, is that any good?


EDIT: I actually purchased 100% Tung Oil.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Hundred-dollar tung oil?
Only in California.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

JBSmall said:


> Hundred-dollar tung oil?
> Only in California.


LOL, meant to say 100%. Ive already applied one coat, so far looks great.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

V-wiz said:


> LOL, meant to say 100%. Ive already applied one coat, so far looks great.


 That's a good choice. Why didn't I think of that?


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Back with some update, here it is with 1 coat of Tung Oil, if time permits i plan on adding one more tomorrow.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Let it dry, then you can add more coats. 
Are you planning on putting a clear coat on it?
Tung oil on its own wont be a durable finish.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Dominick said:


> Let it dry, then you can add more coats.
> Are you planning on putting a clear coat on it?
> Tung oil on its own wont be a durable finish.



Ive been told Tung oil by itself is sufficient. It wont need any other applications. Is this right? I will add 1 to 2 more coats, the more coats the more shine.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

V-wiz said:


> Ive been told Tung oil by itself is sufficient. It wont need any other applications. Is this right? I will add 1 to 2 more coats, the more coats the more shine.


Tung oil builds slowly with multiple coats, and if it is too shiny, you can buff it down with 0000 steel wool.
That should suffice for this kind of table.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

JBSmall said:


> Tung oil builds slowly with multiple coats, and if it is too shiny, you can buff it down with 0000 steel wool.
> That should suffice for this kind of table.



Thanks, thats what i was hoping to hear. My garage smells HORRIBLE, how am i going to put this thing inside the house with the stank?


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Hey guys, so i applied the 2nd coat last night, however its not getting the shine i want, (not to much), will the 3rd coat do the trick? should i apply it and not wipe/buff off with a rag. It looks really nice when applied with a brush, but once you wipe it off the shine goes away. Thank you


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

V-wiz said:


> Hey guys, so i applied the 2nd coat last night, however its not getting the shine i want, (not to much), will the 3rd coat do the trick? should i apply it and not wipe/buff off with a rag. It looks really nice when applied with a brush, but once you wipe it off the shine goes away. Thank you


If you want shine? Why don't you just add a couple coats of gloss poly?


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Dominick said:


> If you want shine? Why don't you just add a couple coats of gloss poly?



I guess just a little bit. Will it be okay to apply poly over Tung oil? it wont chip or crack?


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

I avoid poly for any project thar will wear and may need a touch up coat. Once poly cure you're done.
The live edge cherry benches I just finished got at least 5 wipe on coat after the initial soak. I still favour the none rung oil. Plain tung oil is a dull finish.
You can still keep wiping a coat on 1 to 2 times a day untill it builds. Softwood can take a while. I wipe on using an abrasive pad (the red or green) and wipe dry with a lint free rag. 
Good luck.

(ps the minwax antique oil works well for me)


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

V-wiz said:


> I guess just a little bit. Will it be okay to apply poly over Tung oil? it wont chip or crack?


Sure if you apply an oil base poly. 
I would.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Love that table! Looks great.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Well i applied my 3rd coat, this time i only brushed it on, didnt wipe it. Well see what happens. I just might spray poly over it, or might not.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

V-wiz said:


> Well i applied my 3rd coat, this time i only brushed it on, didnt wipe it. Well see what happens. I just might spray poly over it, or might not.


Maybe you might mask the wane and other rough places?
They may get weird with a plastic film on them.
Won't hurt the flat part, though.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Not buffing and removing the excess was a huge failure, there are areas where its glossy and areas where its flat. Ive started to sand it down to get rid of the differences. Now its all white and dirty. Aaahhh. Ill have to sand, clean and reapply AGAIN. Newb mistakes.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Pain is a good teacher.


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

It may be that the flat areas are still soaking up the finish and taking a long tine to build to a"shine". The dull spots are often where the grain comes up like a bit of patial end grain. Wipe in the oil with a scrubber of the plastic sanding material. Green or gray work well with lots of elbow grease. Then firmly wipe off as much of the oil as possible with a lint free rag like a piece of o ld tee shirt. This helps fill the pores. The main mistake is to leave a film hoping to speed up the build. It just makes a mess that has to be scrubbed off. Sometimes rubbing the oil with 220 - 400 grit paper is need if it's very bad.
Bob


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

PROJECT COMPLETE. I am finally happy with the finished product, i had guests over last night and this was the center of the conversation.


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## Horatio (Apr 4, 2012)

Looks great, awesome job!


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Yup. It turned out fine.
The legs fit the decor well also. Well worth the effort.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Thank you Sir.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Should I ask....What's next?

Seriously though, I love live edge or bark on pieces and unique cuts.

Working on a walnut slab kitchen table now with bark, and gnarled grain.
Just finished a Catalpa bench with bark on. 

Both are pin nailed to keep the bark in place, even though it is tight, and then 3 coats of epoxy finish to lock-er-down. 
I finish with satin w/b poly.

Love this stuff.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Well i have mulberry in the backyard that i cut down few months ago, with live edges, ill post pictures later, its still green, so it needs to dry


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Mulberry has a very interesting yellow pulp, and the graining is a great medium brown.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

I worked some mulberry about 5 years ago, and the pieces started out chartreuse; they are now a dark rust color. The radial grain is quite beautiful.

The table has a nice warm-looking surface, no doubt the product of all your efforts.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Good to hear, ive never worked with mulberry, i will take pictures tomorrow. There is good and bad news for you guys. Lets just say there is alot of fire wood . I enjoy smoking my BBQ so ya, this was before i got into working with wood..


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Bad news is no more berries to eat.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

That may be good news.
The year was 1964. Location, behind the Little League field, by the railroad tracks. 
Sitting on my Roadmaster AMF bicycle, I ate mulberries 'til I $#!T myself. 
Mom never asked what happened to that pair of underwear....


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

HA!
Every year when ripe. I lay down a tarp and shake the trees.
I probably get 2 to 3 gallons (by volume) and then the bugs and particles get picked out. 
The neighbor makes liquors out of em, I just eat a handful or so. 
Shorts are good (so far).

We usually get 3 good shakes.


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Lol, good times. We had two trees, the older one that didnt give fruit and another one that did give white berries. Ill post the pics tomorrow


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

This may not be the project you would want to learn your skills with hand planes but it's what I would start with. Well, lets back up a bit. The first thing I would do is set some winding sticks across it in a few places to see how much twist it has and also set a straight edge down the length to check for wow. But before you start knawing on this plank, check the moisture content. If it's more than 10% you might want to wait.

If there are some really high spots I might take those down a bit with a hand held power planer, very carefully. Then I would start in with a freshly sharpened and tuned jack plane with the plane iron sharpened slightly convexed and I would attack the high spots at a 45 degree angle from both sides. Again with the aid of winding sticks and a straight edge I would continue this until the whole plank is fairly flat. Then I'd move to a big heavy 6 and start working end to end and only angling where the grain becomes troublesome. You will become familiar with where the trouble spots are and you may have to turn around and work the other way several times as the grain changes. 

Now, once the plank is really pretty flat, break out the smoother and the card scrapers. If the difficulty of the grain exceeds your skill with the hand tools (as it sometimes does with me too) then I might consider sanding it with a random orbital with no coarser than 150 grit. But once you start sanding you must sand the whole top evenly. But the livelyness and beauty of the grain will be captured best if is never sanded and only finished with very sharp cutting tools.

Or you could stuff it through the wide belt. Your choice. I've done it both ways.

Bret


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Additionally....since you know the history of your plank, it may not be an issue at all, but let's say you get a plank which has...been around...you will want to check it for stones and grit (nevermind NAILS!) and wire-brush it to make sure your plane will have the best chance of staying sharp. 
Planks are heavy, and even if just the ends are stood on the ground or a driveway, the grit they pick up can put nicks in jointer, planer, and handplane.
(I always cut the ends off boards before surfacing them on the jointer, just to eliminate that stuff.)


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

V-wiz said:


> Lol, good times. We had two trees, the older one that didnt give fruit and another one that did give white berries. Ill post the pics tomorrow


The white ones are sweetest around here. I used to shun them, thinking there was something wrong with them, or they were not ripe...


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Lola Ranch said:


> This may not be the project you would want to learn your skills with hand planes but it's what I would start with. Well, lets back up a bit. The first thing I would do is set some winding sticks across it in a few places to see how much twist it has and also set a straight edge down the length to check for wow. But before you start knawing on this plank, check the moisture content. If it's more than 10% you might want to wait.
> 
> If there are some really high spots I might take those down a bit with a hand held power planer, very carefully. Then I would start in with a freshly sharpened and tuned jack plane with the plane iron sharpened slightly convexed and I would attack the high spots at a 45 degree angle from both sides. Again with the aid of winding sticks and a straight edge I would continue this until the whole plank is fairly flat. Then I'd move to a big heavy 6 and start working end to end and only angling where the grain becomes troublesome. You will become familiar with where the trouble spots are and you may have to turn around and work the other way several times as the grain changes.
> 
> ...



Bret thanks for the advice, but the project is all done, i would hate to go back at it, plus we really like it the way it is. Thank you.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

After I posted I looked at the age of the thread and realised I was a bit late.

I'm kind of surprised you even read it.

Good job on the table!

Bret


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## V-wiz (Jul 31, 2012)

Lola Ranch said:


> After I posted I looked at the age of the thread and realised I was a bit late.
> 
> I'm kind of surprised you even read it.
> 
> ...



Thanks Bret, why wouldn't i read it? i hope to learn more and more. Check out my Mulberry thread.


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