# Drill Press Cart - Build Thread - My 1st Project



## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

First off thanks for all the help you great folks have given me in the last 7 months. I am so glad I found this forum. I have started my first project in my new woodshop. While there are many tools I still want to get, I definitely have enough to begin, probably more than a lot of people doing better things than I can accomplish. I am lucky to have a great wife who doesn't let me go nuts, but lets me get what we can afford, and maybe a little more.

All that said here is what I got done in my first couple hours in the shop today. I am building a rolling DP stand. It will be 28" high + 3" casters, 24" Deep and 19" wide. I changed the plans slightly, in my head. There will be one drawer and one shelf. I may build two more drawers instead of the shelf, but for now its a shelf. I made a door and a back also.

I got all the pieces cut today and will route dados tomorrow or soon. It will be my first time using a router.

The plywood is the Home Depot pine cabinet grade they sell for around $26.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Not sure if you said this is for a bench top Drill press or a floor model? 
Anyways I can't wait to see how this goes 
I was thinking about doing something like that for my floor model. 
Good luck.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks. I am going to put my 12" Craftsman bench top DP on it. It is actually the DP in the left background of the bottom pic.

Breaking down the full sheet of plywood was harder than I thought it would be, especially after I discovered that my brother broke my circular saw and I had to use a little 18v dewalt saw for some of the cuts. I am still not sure of what you should and shouldn't do as far as cutting plywood on the TS. I know it is ok on the longer ripping cuts, but what about the cross cuts of the shorter pieces? There were times when I had a, we'll say 24" by 54" sheet that I needed to cut 3 18"x24" shelves from. Is it ok to cross cut them with the fence to keep them straight?


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

What is this like where's Waldo, but with DP :laughing: it's going to be nice. 
I'm sure you can cut it like the way you stated. I don't think it would be a problem. 
Others may agree or not.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Looking good. Your shop looks great too. Looking forward to seeing some more of this one.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looks great Paul. Can't wait to see how it comes together.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Good good! I'll be tuned in for the progress!

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Spent a few more hours on the project today 1/16/12. I used a router for the first time today cutting the rabbets and dados. I am not counting the time 20+ years ago I used one in wood shop class for a day. It went pretty good for my first time. Took more planning than I thought it would for the cuts, but I think a big part of it was being new at it.

I cut the 23/32 dados 1/4" deep for the two shelves and the top rabbet. I had a few minor slips but it seems OK, no big deal. Everything went together snug for my dry fit, but it seems just right. The photos here are no glue or clamps just a nice tight fit. It is nice and square also.

I did not get a chance to pick up pipe for my pipe clamps yet. I am thinking about drilling pilot holes and using some wood screws to tighten her up with some yellow glue. What do you think? I think this would also give it some more strength since it would have a heavy DP on it and be wheeled around my shop. Not sure yet.

I was also going to rabbet and dado a 3/4 piece of ply for the back, but on second thought I might just tack a piece of 1/4" ply on the back.

After final glue up I am going to work on a pine face frame for it and the drawer and door.

I am fake measuring.


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

Looking good so far.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Looks nice Paul. I hope your fake measuring. If you were your measurements would be off, cause your not looking. :laughing: looks like it will work in the shop just we'll. My only concern is the dado's look like they should be at least half the thickness of the plywood, for better support and more glue surface. JMO. Other than that it's cool.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I am most likely wrong or maybe I was thinking of mortise and tenons, but I thought it was 1/3 the thickness of the board. So I made mine 1/4" of the 3/4" plywwod. If I am wrong then I will know for the next time.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> I am most likely wrong or maybe I was thinking of mortise and tenons, but I thought it was 1/3 the thickness of the board. So I made mine 1/4" of the 3/4" plywwod. If I am wrong then I will know for the next time.


Don't worry about me. That's JMO. I'm not saying its wrong. Just saying what I would of done. It will work no doubt about it. 
Thank for sharing.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

*Glue ups look so easy in the videos, haha.*

Well I got her glued up and it didn't go as well as the dry run. I used Titebond II, which I bought tonight and never used before. Seems as soon as I put the glue on and got the one shelf in the dado, it was hard to move, even banging on it. So I have some parts sticking out slightly. Of course I know that this is due to my inexperience. 

With Titebond II how much time do you usually have to move things? Maybe I should be using a slower setting glue, if there is one. Funny I was so nervous to get it all together.

What can I use, if anything, to shave down this unevenness? Is it worth worrying about for a shop cart? I want to take pride in my builds, so I want it to look good. Everything seems square other than the protruding plywood.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Dominick, I may still throw some wood screws into it just because this is my first glue up ever and I am not even sure I got enough in there.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Couldn't you use a long clamp to even it out? Try it I'm sure it would work.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

If your not worried about how it looks and it's already glued up. A couple screws won't bother you, than go for it.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I probably could have used a clamp, but didn't think of it and now it is set. I will not worry about it and try hard on the next one.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> I probably could have used a clamp, but didn't think of it and now it is set. I will not worry about it and try hard on the next one.


Then just sand it a bit. I know it would bother me. Or you can use a round over bit and router it.


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## Sbrooks (Jan 15, 2012)

Thanks for sharing I'm learning a lot .


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looking good Paul. This is why we get experience on shop projects! I don't think the gap is a big deal for you. Get your sander out with 100 grit and smooth it over. I agree that the pipe clamp might have straightened that for you if you got it soon enough. Nice job with the router.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

*DP Stand Update*

I got to spend a few hours in the shop today working on my rolling DP stand. I got side tracked doing a small box for a friend, but now it is DP stand full steam ahead.

I started the day with my belt sander, taking down the plywood nubs from my uneven glue up. I then started cutting some S4S Home Depot pine I had laying around for the face frame and trim. I did the base trim first and then the top trim. Just some 45 degree miters glued and brad nailed on. Not sure if I should have used the brads, but it was easier than trying to clamp them in place. I might fill the holes with putty. The miters didn't get as tight as I had hoped.

Then I cut the pine for the vertical and horizontal face parts. Again these are just cut to fit and glued and brads. I guess I could have used a different joint, like pocket screw, if I had the jig or a M&T type joint. I think for my first project this was the way to go. As I hopefully get better I will start adding these to the mix on other projects.

I am going to sand it next and cut some hard board for the top and back. I also have to install casters. I think I am going to stain it with the Minwax red oak I have on hand When it is done. After that I will work on the drawer and door for it.

Any tips, ideas or things to make it better? Maybe something to think of next build?

Thanks.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Hey Paul looks very nice. But help me out here you said this is your first project right? 
By the looks of all those fancy tools in your pics, looks like you've been doing this for awhile. Just wondering.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Dominick said:


> Hey Paul looks very nice. But help me out here you said this is your first project right?
> By the looks of all those fancy tools in your pics, looks like you've been doing this for awhile. Just wondering.


lol, Paul likes to put the carriage first haha.'it's legit. He did what we all wish we could of and bought it ALL first!

--------------------------------------------- one day I'll be so good that I won't need this forum any longer... then I'll know I have full onset Dementia! ~tom


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Dominick, I have been buying equipment for the last 7 months while I cleaning out my basement. Most of the stuff, DP, Jointer, BS, Workbench, and other things, I got from Craigslist. The TS and the DC I bought new. I also had aquired some stuff over the last twenty years, both as a home owner and a son of a remodeler/iron worker. My wife is also awesome and lets me get what I want within reason. I think I might have about $1300 into my hobby so far. I have been wanting a woodshop since I was a kid watching Norm and NYWS and This Old House, so now that I hit my 40's, I decided it was time. So I just keep my eye on CL and buy stuff I would like for the shop when the deal is right.


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## PPBART (Oct 7, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> ...keep my eye on CL and buy stuff I would like for the shop when the deal is right.


I've been watching CL for at least a couple of years, have yet to find one real deal... <sigh>

But I do like this thread -- I have a pretty ragged table for my drill press, at least 20 yrs old, which I may now decide to rebuild.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Alrighty then. Hey if your going to do it,you might as well do it right. Good for you Paul.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Believe me, there are plenty of things I want or think I need, but can't buy. I got some great deals on CL on stuff and I had 7 months of cleaning out my shop area and watching CL to aquire stuff. If you have seen some of my posts you have followed my equipment purchases. Just a quick run down. Craftsman TS-$400 (new on clearence at Sears), HF Dust Collector $135 (New on sale), Delta 14" BS-$165 (CL), Dewalt Planer-$175 (CL), Benchtop Jointer (crappy) -$50 (CL), Craftsman 12" DP-$75 (CL), HF Router Table with Router (not hooked up yet) $0 (curbside find), Craftsman router $85 (new), Narex chisels $41 (new). And about a $100 on odds and ends.

There are a million things I want and am holding off on. I am going back and fourth on the Veritas Honing guide and stuff to sharpen my chisel, but can't put out the bread at this point. I also want a benchtop mortiser, but have to wait until I find a great deal on CL or save some more money. I also want a better jointer, again waiting for a great CL deal.

So I am surprised that people think my shop is all geared up.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Hey Dom, don't mistake any tone in my posts, its all good. I am very lucky that I can spend a little money on my new hobby. We are far from having any real money. I am a newspaper photographer and they are going the way of the dinosaur and aren't paid that well to begin with. I am lucky to have a job. I also do some freelance work outside of my full time job and that is where a lot of my hobby/fun money comes from.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

You got a nice shop and some great tools to go with it. Keep on keepin on.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

We want it all. Can't get enough. I'm trying to sweet talk the wife in letting me go to my local sawyer to pick up some spalted maple slabs. I'll post pics if I get some.


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## toasterburn (Jan 3, 2012)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Believe me, there are plenty of things I want or think I need, but can't buy. I got some great deals on CL on stuff and I had 7 months of cleaning out my shop area and watching CL to aquire stuff. If you have seen some of my posts you have followed my equipment purchases. Just a quick run down. Craftsman TS-$400 (new on clearence at Sears), HF Dust Collector $135 (New on sale), Delta 14" BS-$165 (CL), Dewalt Planer-$175 (CL), Benchtop Jointer (crappy) -$50 (CL), Craftsman 12" DP-$75 (CL), HF Router Table with Router (not hooked up yet) $0 (curbside find), Craftsman router $85 (new), Narex chisels $41 (new). And about a $100 on odds and ends.
> 
> There are a million things I want and am holding off on. I am going back and fourth on the Veritas Honing guide and stuff to sharpen my chisel, but can't put out the bread at this point. I also want a benchtop mortiser, but have to wait until I find a great deal on CL or save some more money. I also want a better jointer, again waiting for a great CL deal.
> 
> So I am surprised that people think my shop is all geared up.


Ha, you sound like me. I've been putting my shop together for the last few months. $50 for a vintage table saw on CL, $100 for a vintage bandsaw on CL, $80 for a dremel scroll saw on CL, $130 for a craftsman drill press on sale, craftsman sliding miter saw was a christmas gift, grinder was also a christmas gift, several craftsman hand tools on sale for half off, ect. Full working wood shop for less then $1000.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

It takes time but things can be found on CL. I am currently keeping an eye out for a different jointer and a mortiser. I let several, nice ones, slip through my fingers because of other needs and I thought I had an OK one. The one I got doesn't seem to work right. This is one of the perils of CL. I am going to try and adjust it to get it right, but for $50 benchtop, it was always going to be a temp solution until I scored a better, bigger one.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Geez... I wish... I have at least 3k just in hand tools! 

Not bragging... COMPLAINING!!!

--------------------------------------------- one day I'll be so good that I won't need this forum any longer... then I'll know I have full onset Dementia! ~tom


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

I'd say you're doing great so far. We all get better with practice. And what better practice than making something as useful as this? You'll use this stand for years to come. Every time you do you'll have the right to be proud. Plus you're getting stuff you want for a fraction of the price it's really worth.

One hint on placing the shelves into the dados: if the fit is nice and tight, like yours, try aligning one corner of the shelf into the end of the dado and allowing the rest to "fall into place", as if you were closing a big book. By starting at the end you can avoid most of the repositioning that may otherwise be required if you try pressing the entire length into the dado at once.

I also agree with an earlier comment regarding that the dados could have been deeper. But don't worry: good glue and some screws and it'll be plenty solid.

Nice looking shop and tool collection. May they serve you well for a long time to come.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

This is really coming along nicely. Great work for sure.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Kenbo said:


> This is really coming along nicely. Great work for sure.


Thanks for all the compliments from everyone, you guys are the best. I know it is far from great work, but I appreciate the positive re-enforcement. This project makes me a little nervous to try with actual good, expensive wood, but that is why I started with a shop project made from pine plywood. It is definitely a learning process and I am having fun doing it. Hard working fun, but still fun.

I need to get better at taking and transferring my measurements into actual cuts. A big part of it is me. I also think some of it is getting my TS set up better, its close, but definitely needs some fine, fine tuning. I also have to work on getting things glued up better and faster. I may try some of the Titebond II Extended time glue.

Again thanks for all the kind words.

Paul


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

Looks pretty good! Maybe for the next project, a drawer for the top space?


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

That's the plan Jaydawg. Thanks for looking.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

very nice peice sir.....i really like it:thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Paul, Everyone has to start somewhere, and from where I'm standing, your first cart is turning out great. That is the best way to learn by building your shop projects. These lessons you are learning will help with future builds. Now, when you go to glue up your next dadoed shelves, you will remember 1) You only have about 5 or so minutes to work with the glue..... 2) to have a few extra "persuaders" laying around to help with alignment.... 3) that we will make mistakes.... A really good workworker knows this and covers them up very well. :shifty: 

As far as the type of glue you used.... I have always used regular wood glue, and found that, while i have to rush, it still gives me ample time to ge the glue up done. One tip I could make is that you should do a "mock" glue-up (with no glue), getting and using all the clamps that you are going to need, and then set them close by when you take it apart. That way they will be right there when you actually apply glue, and you won't be scrambling to try to locate that last clamp/Persuader while the glue is setting up.

I really appreciate your honesty with your pictures, but I still think that this has turned out fine.

Fabian


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

An update. Got some sanding done today and then some of my famous red oak stain. I have a gallon of it left over from my hardwood floor redo. I may do another coat of stain and then some poly. I think it looks decent for a first shop porject. Far from fine furniture. So many things I would never want to see on a piece of furniture in my house. Little things like slight cutting mistakes, sanding faux pas (wavy rounded areas), glue squeeze out that was sanded but not enough to take stain well. But, as said before by you fine folks, that is why we start with shop stuff. I am goint top get some of that 1/4 brown hardboard for the top in-lay and back. I am also going to try my hand a some kind of drawer and door. Plus the casters.


























Not sure why the wavy lines are in the last image, maybe not enough sanding. I though I hit pretty good.


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## believebraves (Jan 10, 2011)

Just a tip, the waves can be prevented by applying some Minwax pre-stain conditionar. Highly recommended when staining pine. But love the stand nice design!!


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks for the tip. I am new and everything is a learning experience. Sanding and finishing is definitely something that is going to take a while to learn. I am also using what is on hand in my shop, so I will have to pick up some of the conditioner for my next pine project.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

jaydawg74 said:


> Looks pretty good! Maybe for the next project, a drawer for the top space?


Great idea on the drawer for the top space. It looks like you could get two or three more drawers in the space below that. I don't know what you had planned to use the bottom space for but think of all the bits, hole saws etc. That you could organize into multiple drawers. 

Also, it looks like you have raised edging on the front and two sides of the top. Why not continue that on the back as well? Then you'll be sure to prevent bits from rolling off the back of the top.

May I also recommend locking swivel castors? In my small shop I've found that I often need to move things around for different projects.

Nice job Paul. I'm inspired to build one of these myself.

Jeff


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Don't know how I missed this one, but your cart is really looking great for a first time effort. I'll agree that continuing the raised edge all the way around will help prevent bits from rolling off the cart and into "unexplored" areas. Small things in my shop seem to always find the places no one except the builders ever saw.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Thanks for the advice and kind words from everone. I had not thought of using the raised edge of the top trim as a barrier for stuff. I was actually planning on cutting a piece of 1/4 hardboard and setting it into the space. Not sure what I will do.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Working on a drawer today. I got the sides, front, back and bottom cut and routed. My first drawer. Someday I dream of dovetails, but today it is rabbeted joints. I need to do some rough sandinging and then glue up, but not today. Taking it easy tonight before back to the real work tomorrow. Where do the weekends go?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Lookin' good Paul. I checked my flip-top holding my Rigid belt/spindle sander today and it seems that I have room for a drawer without interfering with the flip operation. 

Ill have to keep the belt and spindle assemblies off the machine but they should fit in the drawer along with belts, multiple diameter spindles, miter gauge etc.

Thanks again for the idea.

Jeff


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## Kirch3333 (Dec 23, 2011)

Interesting. I built one that's nearly identical. Great minds think alike I guess. I also plan a door and drawer just haven't had the time to go pick up the hardware. And I also had a similar problem with the mis-alignment of the pieces when put together. This was because I had a brand new table saw (Ridgid r4512) and the blade wasn't quite heeled perfectly and the fence would go out of square when locked down. I corrected those issues and it fixed the alignment issues. Here's a pic of mine. You'll probably enjoy it since they're very very similar.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Kinda looks like you guys built them together. :laughing: looks nice


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## fiirmoth (Dec 26, 2011)

*Question*

Great looking project. I am especially interested because I have been thinking of building some display shelves and some book shelves using this same basic design of 3/4 ply dadoed. My question is this...if I dado/glue/brad nail is that strong enough for a bookshelf or do I need to use screws? I just got my nail gun and I am new to all of this in general. I am not sure how much I can trust glue/nails compared to screws. Thank you for sharing your project. It is amazing how much I learn each time I see someone else build something. Thanks!!!


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I am no expert on building these. Like the title says, this is my first shop project since high school 24 years ago. I didn't use any nails or screws in the dados, just glue. The shelf seems pretty sturdy. The joints were a tight/good fit. We will see if she holds up to the DP going on it. If I need screws I will add them later.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Got a couple of hours in the shop today, pre Superbowl, and got my drawer sanded and glued up. I am starting to think I am the worst glue up guy in the world. Never goes smooth, I wrestle with the clamps and where to put them and I get glue everywhere, but in the joints. I am sure I will get better with practice, its just frustrating. The drawer is pretty square though. I also hit it with some brads, for added strength. I am thinking about leaving it natural color with just a poly finish to contrast the red oak stained cabinet.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

fiirmoth said:


> Great looking project. I am especially interested because I have been thinking of building some display shelves and some book shelves using this same basic design of 3/4 ply dadoed. My question is this...if I dado/glue/brad nail is that strong enough for a bookshelf or do I need to use screws? I just got my nail gun and I am new to all of this in general. I am not sure how much I can trust glue/nails compared to screws. Thank you for sharing your project. It is amazing how much I learn each time I see someone else build something. Thanks!!!


In theory, all you need is glue. Good glue forms a bond that is literally stronger than the wood it's bonding. Nails and screws only really serve as clamping agents whilst the glue sets up.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Spent a few more hours working on the project before the game. The drawer fit in the hole, that's a plus. I wasn't sure how I was going to mount the drawer. There is less than 1/2", 7/16" to be close to exact, on each side of the drawer box inside the cabinet. I cut a couple of runners and stapled them to the sides to make the drawer slide even and added a stop in the back. I had to plane the runners to get a nice fit. Not sure if there is room in there for actual metal slides, anyone know? Hopefully my solution works for the longer run, but I am not against metal slides. I also put a knob on and cut the top and fitted it. Next step will be a hardboard back, four blocks on the bottom to attach the casters to, add casters, a little more sanding and a few coats of poly. She is almost done.

Thanks for watching, to be continued.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Did not really get any shop time in this week, until today. Cut a hardboard back and attached it with 1" staples. Attached some blocks to the bottom and then the 3" casters. Also cut a shelf and door for the piece. They need to be sanded and the door attached with hinges. Plus a knob for the door. Then the whole thing needs a coat or two of poly. Then its done.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Really looks great, Paul. Well done!

~tom "Ignorance is not a lack of intelligence - it's a lack of know-how"


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## Kirch3333 (Dec 23, 2011)

Looking good! :thumbsup:


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

It's really coming together nicely.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looks great Paul. Better be careful the wife doesn't confiscate it for the kitchen! :smile:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

That sure is looking real good. Your drawer looks like it should work well, too. 

Just a note about the drawer and planning for hardware for it..... If you plan on using full extension drawer slides, you should measure your opening width, and subtract 1 1/16" from it, and that new measurement would be the actual width of your drawer. So if your opening measured 16", then you should make your actual drawer width should be 14 15/16". I used to only subtract 1", but then C-man pointed out many times that the extra 1/16" is the way to go, and it hasn't failed me in my last dozen or so drawers that I made.

Fabian


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Home stretch update...almost done. This will probably be close to the last update for this build thread. Perhaps one more glorious shot of it in place with the DP on it, when completed. Today I sanded the door, mounted the knob and then the hinges and door on the stand. I kind of took the lazy way out and put the hinges on the outside. I started to chisel the side of the door to mount the hinges inside, but the plywood was no co-operating and chipping weird, my chisels are new and need sharpening, so they went on the outside. I then put a coat of poly on it and it is now drying. I will most likely hit it with another coat, but it is getting tough to keep working on this project. I start to get a little wonderlust for the next project, what ever it may be. I hate sanding and finishing/painting. But it is part of woodworking and I am telling myself to push through and get her done. I think my brother has been eyeballing this as a nightstand, he thinks it is too nice for the shop.

I tried a new trick I read about, new to me anyway, to fix a indent I had from the clamps on the drawer. I wet a towel and put it over the dent and went over it with an hot iron. It lifted the dents right out. I did need to sand the raised grain back down but I was happy it worked.

Thanks for watching and look for the final update soon.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Lol. Oh theres more to this. I thought this was done. 
Looks nice. Keep it up.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I wish it were done and I guess it could have been, but I figured I should make it done, done, instead of Paul Gillespie done. I have a way of moving on from projects when they are about 90-95% complete, as in my kitchen, shed, deck... All done enough to use, look good, but not 100% punched out.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> I wish it were done and I guess it could have been, but I figured I should make it done, done, instead of Paul Gillespie done. I have a way of moving on from projects when they are about 90-95% complete, as in my kitchen, shed, deck... All done enough to use, look good, but not 100% punched out.


I hear ya, man. It seems like that last 5-10 percent can be the most daunting. ur maybe we just lose interest once we reach the stage of usability. I say "we" because I do it a lot of times too.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> I wish it were done and I guess it could have been, but I figured I should make it done, done, instead of Paul Gillespie done. I have a way of moving on from projects when they are about 90-95% complete, as in my kitchen, shed, deck... All done enough to use, look good, but not 100% punched out.


Paul, my friend, you are not the only one like that. On most of my early projects, I still have a piece of something missing, because I ran short of this, or didn't finish enough of that. I in fact, start my planning of my next project, while working on a current one, and sometimes, even start a new project while waiting for glue to dry, or hardware to come in for my current one.




Paul W Gillespie said:


> I start to get a little wonderlust for the next project, what ever it may be. I hate sanding and finishing/painting.


I don't know of too many that really enjoy it, especially the sanding, but this is where you really need to take the time to get it done right, because a botched finish job will make the best of projects look bad. 

With all that being said, you are doing real good with this. Keep up the good work! :icon_smile:

Fabian


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Well, this is looking great. Can't wait to see it all set up. I have to be honest and say that I would have like to see you mortise in the hinges but everything in time right? You've still done a very nice job. Sounds like the next thing to do is sharpen your chisels. :laughing: Don't forget as well, that you can score the outline of the hinge with a knife, remove the majority of the material with a router and a straight bit and finish it off with a chisel. Give it a try, you'll love the results. Either way, great work on the DP stand. You've learned a lot on this one.


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