# cross-cut sled for band saw?



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Does anyone have any tips or tricks for building a sled for a band saw, particularly one that will help counteract blade drift? I've been searching around on the internet but haven't been able to find much.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Blade "drift" is a separate issue.*

A properly tuned bandsaw, with a sharp blade, with "proper" tension will cut 1/16" thick slices until you get tired of pushing them through. There are plenty of instructions on how to do this in manuals, and online videos. Buy decent blades. I use Timberwolf, from Grizzly, at a moderate price. Tracking the blade on the wheels and setting the blade tension, wider blades require more tension and smaller saws can't handle more tension without frame flex or stressing the shaft bearings. This should be covered in your manual. I set my back rollers to just touch the blade with no feed pressure. The same for the side blocks, rollers wheels etc...just kissing the blade. The blade speed should be appropriate for the work. The blade should have enough set to clear out the sawdust. I use a 1/2" or 3/4" , 3 teeth per inch blade for resawing up to 7" thick stock. I don't think you can make a sled that will accomdate drift since it will vary with each blade, maybe I'm wrong, but I'd get the saw working as it should then go from there.:thumbsup: bill


----------



## Hhaines (Nov 26, 2008)

Amen......


----------



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks for that. Very useful information.

Just so you know, my budget afforded me a second-hand, 12" Craftsman band saw that's about 30 years old. I just replaced the tires and installed a new blade (1/2", 6 tpi) and have it tracking properly. The bushings have been cleaned and are (hopefully) appropriately placed. I've been wondering about replacing the guide blocks with non-metallic ones. One of the blocks moves inwards and pinches the blade when I tighten down on the set screw; I'm assuming the previous owner probably tightened it too much and now the block has an indentation. 

I still need a sled, however. Are you saying it's probably not fruitful to attempt to make one that is flush with the blade? Perhaps a properly placed fence would work better? I do not have a table saw and am hoping that my band saw can help with some of my ripping tasks.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The nature of the bandsaw is that it cuts curves*

However, it WILL cut straight lines as well. :yes: The width of the blade determines the minimum radius it will cut easily. So a "sled" and there the one in the pictures I posted, is used to support the weight of a long heavy log while it's being resawed or ripped along it's length into boards. A cross cut sled seems redundant. The throat depth of your saw, 12", doesn't require anything more than a miter gauge. Obviously a rip fence of greater height will better support a thick workpiece, like a log. This is what I use roughly about 6" high. What specific use do you intend for the saw that possibly we are missing here? I noticed that you say need help with "ripping tasks" so a fence extension will be what you want... and tuning up the saw. The saw you describe is not a "work horse" more of a light duty, if I remember. Can you post a pictuer or model no. Probably a 3/4 or so motor? A 6 TPI blade will not work well for ripping! I had a 12" Craftsman saw aluminum housing, nice for hobby stuff, but light duty only. I have a Craftsman 14" saw with a 1 HP motor and nice large cast iron table, but it's not my workhorse either...a MiniMax 18" does my resawing. :blink: bill


----------



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Yes, a cross-cut sled would be redundant. I shall be more careful with my terminology, as really I just need a sled. The saw is second hand, so it didn't have the miter gauge included. I checked the motor and it's 1/2 hp, which is fine since I'm more of a hobbyist. Although, I would love to mill my own lumber someday. Thanks for the tips on blades; The ripping I want to do will be mostly for getting board edges straight, since I also do not yet have a jointer. I will also have to devise a clever fence.



She ain't pretty, but what can you expect for $25? Add about $30 for parts and some TLC and she runs great. This is the first machine my grandfather taught me to use, so having my own now is a cool thing. He actually let me borrow a small, bench-top model when I was about 12 and told me to just start cutting shapes. I'm a bit surprised I wasn't supervised or anything! (Although he did tell me to wear safety glasses!)


----------

