# Chapel Build



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Building a small chapel in the Arts and Crafts style. First piece is the altar. Trying a new technique ... Fuming Qrt Sawn White Oak. Sanded Top to 220. Then 24 hours under Ammonia tent (extra-strength household ammonia). Another sanding with 220, followed by a coat of clear satin, brushing lacquer.
BTW .. 30x30 top size.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Here is one of the side panels before glue-up. I am waiting on the 1/4 Qtr Sawn Oak plywood sheets I ordered for the panels. When they arrive, hopefully tomorrow, then I can put it together. I am using loose tenon construction. (Sorry for the poor quality pic, I only had my old ipod with me at the time.) 

Time to work on the front and back panels. In the back will be a drawer and a cabinet door. You always need storage.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Thomas 
Very nice to see someone is using other methods of conditioning wood. Maybe you would like to expound on the process you are using. I have shared a method I use on cherry wood but it seemed to fall on deaf ears. Too bad all oak isn't quarter sawn. I think it looks best that way and gains a finer appeal.

Looking forward to seeing the rest.

Al B Thayer

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

looks nice Thomas. I like the look of fumed white oak. could you elaborate a bit further? I did a piece a few years back where I laid a pie tin under it filled with household ammonia and tented with plastic for about a month. do you use a fan?


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

If I may, I fumed a piece this last winter and the results were outstanding! But, here's the but, you need to use an Ammonium Hydroxide that's at least a 28% solution. Why? because a weaker solution isn't strong enough to interact with the tannon in the wood.
I tried a test with a 10% ammonia, an industrial stength it said on the bottle and even after 18 hours there was very little color change.
I'm hooked on fuming oak and I have another piece that is almost ready for the tent.
I fumed the piece in my garden shed and it wasn't bad at all.
here's a link to my build if your'e interested.
Good luck!

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/craftsman-style-sidetable-46992/


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## Tommie Hockett (Aug 26, 2012)

so could someone tell me what fuming the wood actually does? and maybe a before and after picture please:thumbsup:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Looking cool Padre, will there be a cutout for an Alter Stone? Those are still required, right?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Tommie Hockett said:


> so could someone tell me what fuming the wood actually does? and maybe a before and after picture please:thumbsup:


Using ammonia to darken the wood. Mostly done on oak. You let the fumes do the work.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

I have been hesitant to add dovetails to my projects because I've always been a little intimidated by the joint. I am giving Sandor Nagyzszalanczy's table saw jig in July/August 2010 Woodworker's Journal a try. Finished the jig and cut my first test pieces. I'll have to fidget with it a little more but I like the jig overall. 

I will try to document my fuming process later. I will say I am NOT using the 26% percent solution, and I am getting good results.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Firemedic, altar stones are not required anymore. Also this chapel will only be blest and not consecrated, so there are different rubrics; it will also by a Byzantine Catholic Chapel with an icon screen. I am still trying to figure out how do that in Arts and Crafts Style, no examples to look at.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

ThomasOSB said:


> Firemedic, altar stones are not required anymore. Also this chapel will only be blest and not consecrated, so there are different rubrics; it will also by a Byzantine Catholic Chapel with an icon screen. I am still trying to figure out how do that in Arts and Crafts Style, no examples to look at.


How strange that all of these things have changed, generally people point to the Second Vatican Council, yet it's nowhere to be found in writing - particularly not on the Council texts. :huh: What happened to Holy Mother Church's Historical Custodianship? 

As for the Byzantine designs - are you familiar with faux mosaics done with sheetrock? I wish I had pictures, my artist brother did some very nice ones. The rock is scored to look like a mosaic and painted / gold leaved to be quite convincing.

EDIT:
What did the Army Chaplains and Missionaries carry in leu of an Alter Stone - Greek Corporals?


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

firemedic said:


> How strange that all of these things have changed, generally people point to the Second Vatican Council, yet it's nowhere to be found in writing - particularly not on the Council texts. :huh: What happened to Holy Mother Church's Historical Custodianship?
> 
> As for the Byzantine designs - are you familiar with faux mosaics done with sheetrock? I wish I had pictures, my artist brother did some very nice ones. The rock is scored to look like a mosaic and painted / gold leaved to be quite convincing.
> 
> ...


Those aren't Greek Corporals, they were just corporals with relics sewn into them. It was easier to carry those around and put on top of a table or jeep, than to haul around an extra 5 pound stone and a special table with a whole cut into it to drop the altar stone into. The "Greek Corporals" or Antimensions have an elaborate icon of the Disposition of Christ on them, along with the date of its consecration, and the bishop who consecrated it.

There is a great picture of the Servant of God Emil Kapun using one during the Korean War. He was awarded the Medal of Honor posthumously just last month.


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## Masterofnone (Aug 24, 2010)

ThomasOSB said:


> Those aren't Greek Corporals, they were just corporals with relics sewn into them. It was easier to carry those around and put on top of a table or jeep, than to haul around an extra 5 pound stone and a special table with a whole cut into it to drop the altar stone into. The "Greek Corporals" or Antimensions have an elaborate icon of the Disposition of Christ on them, along with the date of its consecration, and the bishop who consecrated it.
> 
> There is a great picture of the Servant of God Emil Kapun using one during the Korean War. He was awarded the Medal of Honor posthumously just last month.


Hey! Father Kapun!

When you say a "small chapel," just how small are we talking about?

Bobby


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> Thomas
> Very nice to see someone is using other methods of conditioning wood. Maybe you would like to expound on the process you are using. I have shared a method I use on cherry wood but it seemed to fall on deaf ears. Too bad all oak isn't quarter sawn. I think it looks best that way and gains a finer appeal.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the rest.
> ...


Al,

You method for cherry didn't fall on deaf ears (I was the OP in the thread you shared it in), life (tough semester at school, challenged of new parenthood) got in the way and I actually am just now finishing up construction of the project. Probably going to have it all glued up and sanded this week or early next week. Then going to work on finishing. 

Craig


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## khowald (Nov 8, 2012)

*Fuming oak*



Tommie Hockett said:


> so could someone tell me what fuming the wood actually does? and maybe a before and after picture please:thumbsup:


Tommie this refers to darkening oak by introducing it to ammonia fumes, and yes it needs to be industrial 28%. This procedure was used by Stickley and also Green; pioneers of the "Stickley" type of furniture. Look up Stickley and Green and Green on the internet and you will see examples of their oak furniture, usually quarter sawn. The use of fuming ammonia is how they achieved the color of the oak. It is very, very, very strong ammonia and it WILL burn your eyes and take your breath away. You have to use rubber gloves and mask and limit your exposure. ken


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

khowald said:


> and yes it needs to be industrial 28%.


Please explain then how I am getting positive results without industrial strength.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Here's a little about the process I am using for fuming. I have not fumed woods earlier because I was continually reading that you needed aqua ammonia and the special precautions were nerve wracking. Everyone kept saying YOU CAN ONLY USE the 28% solution. There were a couple of places that said that regular household ammonia would do just fine. It will take longer and you have to make sure that the gases do not escape. It made sense. The principle is that the ammonia reacts with chemicals in the wood. So given enough time, the lower concentrate ammonia will react and as long as the ammonia fumes remain in the air within the container.

I used extra strength ammonia and placed it in two cafeteria trays. The more surface area covered the better results you will get. I have a couple of boards with some nails hammered in so that the wood does not overlap (if it overlaps there will be whiter areas - its like tan lines for wood). I also placed a strip of wood propped on blocks down the center so the tarp will not come in contact with the wood being fumed. I also have side supports to keep the tarp off the sides. I lay a thick, clear plastic tarp over the whole structure (Its clear so I can keep an eye on the process). I then place weights on the sides so that it keeps the fumes from escaping from under the tarp. I will wait 24 hours and then look at the process to decide if more time is required.

Here are some initial pictures I have taken. The first is the unprepared wood. The second is the setup before stacking the wood. The third is the wood stacked up and the fourth is everything covered and waiting to be transformed.


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## Reclaimed Wood Blog (May 28, 2013)

I'm glad someone ask about what fuming was if not i would have had to ask. Almost ever time i come on this forum I learn something new. Thanks

http://reclaimedwoodblog.com/


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Took the side panels out of the clamps.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

I'm reserving my front row seat now. I'm interested in seeing this come together.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Front panel on the left and back panel on the right. The back panel will have a drawer and two-shelf cabinet.


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

My understanding of fuming is that it is simply to darken the wood. Do you plan to put any sort of polyurethane or varnish on the wood?


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

If your are getting decent results with what you're doing, great!
People are just trying to be helpful, including me.

I have done several tests using a 10% solution and 28%. While both did change the overall appearance, the 28% gave the wood a nicer look. A much deeper color if you will.

I read in one of my books on Gustav that the reason they used a stronger solution was because of the depth at which the ammonia hydroxide penetrated into the wood. 
This may be of no concern if you are fuming a completed piece, but as Gustav noted, not all oak contains the same amount of "tannons"
in the wood and after fuming completed pieces he observed subtle color differences. Some sections would turn out a chestnut brown while other sections had a silvery brown to it.
Granted in the early 1900's they probably had more access to lumber milled entirely from the same tree, even so they took to fuming
the lumber, not the piece. 
After fuming, the craftsman could easily color match the lumber before starting on a build, which leads me back to the use of a stronger solution and a deeper penetration as this allowed the craftsman to be able to still work the wood without fear of sanding thru the "fume".

There, I said it. Now I'll go away. Have a nice day!


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Returned from vacation and got some time in the shop. There was some progress and some set backs. But here is where it stands now. Did a dry fit so that I can begin to lay out the dimension for the internal cabinet. The sides are all put together with biscuits. I used a story stick to lay them all out in the same spots on all sides.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

It's looking great so far :thumbsup: Keep up the excellent work.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ThomasOSB said:


> Returned from vacation and got some time in the shop. There was some progress and some set backs. But here is where it stands now. Did a dry fit so that I can begin to lay out the dimension for the internal cabinet. The sides are all put together with biscuits. I used a story stick to lay them all out in the same spots on all sides.


Looks very good and yes Jesus Christ did conquer.

I was wondering. After fuming, how much can you sand before it effects the color?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Al B Thayer said:


> I was wondering. After fuming, how much can you sand before it effects the color?


Al,
When I do the drawer, I will need to cut a little off the sides so you can see. I would not recommend aggressive sanding.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Three coats of Brushing Lacquer. I still need to make some cleats to secure the top and to make and fit the drawer.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

A few shots with the top in place.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Very nice,,,,,,,

How happy are you with BRUSHING LACQUER? Just wonder..

Dale in Indy


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ThomasOSB said:


> Al,
> When I do the drawer, I will need to cut a little off the sides so you can see. I would not recommend aggressive sanding.


Thanks. I was mostly concerned with finish sanding. I do most of my work finished with wiping varnish. So it seems there is always a little sanding before going to finish.

I like brushing lacquer too. Its a great product that the poly gang should give a try.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Just wonder, do you like brushing lacquer because you don't like to spray, or have the space to do such?

Personally I use ML Campbell sprays, MagnaMax. It's a production finish, need to wear good mask, and protective clothing. It does dry very fast, it is a pre-cat product, a gallon has shelf life of 120 days, and is approx. $45.00 per gallon. Lacquer thinner cleans the equipment. I use satin a lot. 

Just wondered about your reasons for brushing lacquer.

Dale in Indy


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Smith Brother said:


> How happy are you with BRUSHING LACQUER? Just wonder..


Dale,
There are a couple of different finishes I like to use: shellac, wiping varnish, and brushing lacquer. When I use lacquer, it is always Satin because I think the others give it too much of a shiny/plasticky look. I went with lacquer in this case because it gives a durable finish, doesn't obscure the fuming of the white oak, and it was what I had on hand. I have tended to use shellac in my last several projects though.
I have not done any spraying for finishes because I don't have the equipment. I do have my eye on one of the Earlex machines but the $300 price tag keeps me at bay when I like the results I get with my other techniques that cost a lot less.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Here's the drawer made with the dovetail jig from Woodworker's Journal.



















(Forgot to mention, the drawer is made out of pine.)


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## Effingham (Dec 2, 2012)

Loving this. For the record, THIS is in my back yard.


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## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Drawer front installed. I am off to Russia for 6 weeks, but when I return I will put a finish on the drawer, make the drawer runners, and build the table top cleats.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Great job. I have the same favorite finishes. That Oak looks really nice. Can't believe how much better quarter sawn looks. Have a blessed trip.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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