# Some sliding dovetail benches



## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Walnut 
40" x 12" x 16 1/2"


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

2 figured maple benches ~ 24" x 12"-13" x 16 3/4"


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Great stuff!*

Any build photos to show the "how" ?
Looks like the sliding parts are attached to the legs as separate pieces? Maybe mortise and tenoned together?
Router with a dovetail bit?
lots of questions.... very nice work. :yes:


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

The legs are m&t to the rails which I cut on a table saw. 

I use screws going thru the tops moving down into the dt rails and into the legs. The holes are slotted to allow for movement.

I didn't take any photos during the builds. Keep forgetting to. They seem pretty straight forward to me but I guess not. I'll do that next time.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*how about this...?*

Do you really need the screws down from the top? Why wouldn't the sliding DT joint itself secure the legs structurally? A small wedge could retain them. Seems a shame to have holes showing in the top.... minimalist speaking here. :laughing:

I assume the router was guided along a straight edge?
How did you maintain an accurate spacing dimension side to side so the tail would mate into the top?
Maybe a parallel sided template with the correct spacing between them? 

You say simple, sure enough, but what makes it great is it's simplicity. It's not so obvious how you did it. The Devils in the details kinda thing. :yes:

I really like the 2 part leg idea. It makes handling the pieces a whole lot easier, since they aren't so large and unwieldy. Very innovative!

I would not be surprised if you used a circular saw on a bevel to get the dovetails ... ?


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Nice maple walnut and use of it.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

If I wedge the dt rails in place, some of that end grain show and it'll look rough so I opt for the screws with plugs. Besides, over time, if and as the wood shrinks, could wind up loosening up and I don't people to have to think about that. I thought about tapered sliding dt's but I think the same issue could apply. 

I mainly do the m&t'd rails because I really like the end grain/edge grain contrast. I also bevel the recesses and the dt rails on the edges to make the joins pop out a bit more. 

I mostly use my table saw to cut these. Router and fence to clean up and make more precise. Still though, as expected, fittings can be a little difficult if you don't pay close attention during the process.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I agree. They look simple enough, but I'd still like to see how you did it.

Very nice benches! :thumbsup:


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Lately, I haven't been taking photos of any builds. I forget to do that and time is a factor right now as well. 

Next time I make one, I'll take photos and post them. 

But you guys have all pretty much summed up how I make them, router and fence setup, table saw, etc. I'll tell ya though, one mistake I made was using an edge guide with my router on a dovetail cut where the router and fence basically pinched in the workpiece... big effin mistake, that was no joke when it started to bind and kick back.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Nice job, thanks for sharing.:thumbsup:


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## steaksauce (Apr 30, 2014)

Very cool, really like how these turned out and nicely done.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

I really like the design. I love the idea of sliding DTs and I hope to incorporate them into projects. It appears (at least to me) that the sliding DT was attached to the end of a different board? If I am correct, why did you choose to do this and how dod you attach the DT's to the other pieces?

Thanks.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Burb said:


> I really like the design. I love the idea of sliding DTs and I hope to incorporate them into projects. It appears (at least to me) that the sliding DT was attached to the end of a different board? If I am correct, why did you choose to do this and how dod you attach the DT's to the other pieces?
> 
> Thanks.


The rails are glued to legs via a mortise and tenon join. I do this pretty much because I prefer the contrast of edge grain to end grain. Also, in the case of the walnut bench, the top overhang front to back is different to accommodate molding above the floor in my clients entry hall and I don't like notch cutting things like this. To me, this is cleaner and more "complete".


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

Love them very cool. Nicely done.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

gideon said:


> The rails are glued to legs via a mortise and tenon join. I do this pretty much because I prefer the contrast of edge grain to end grain. Also, in the case of the walnut bench, the top overhang front to back is different to accommodate molding above the floor in my clients entry hall and I don't like notch cutting things like this. To me, this is cleaner and more "complete".


That makes sense. Thanks for explaining why you did it. Helps me understand things in designing my own stuff, though most stuff never gets out of my head


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## Travico (Dec 25, 2012)

I really like the build of the benches. You have given me a DOVETAIL idea I hadn't thought of yet.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Travico said:


> I really like the build of the benches. You have given me a DOVETAIL idea I hadn't thought of yet.


It's a Japanese technique. I saw a guy from Japan join a top to a base this way. The video didn't show how he did it. I still don't know his method but mine works just fine.


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## Fishinbo (Jul 23, 2012)

The sliding dovetails look neat. That is one sweet piece of work.


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