# T-111 Siding Repair



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I built this shed after Wilma (2005), a 10'x12', and sided it with 5/8" T-111 (4" O/C). I painted the outside, and the bottom edge, but there is some rot along the bottom edge (about 6"-8"). 

For a fix I was thinking to set up a straightedge up from the bottom and just run a circular saw with the blade just deep enough to cut the siding. Then my choices are to what to put back on. Here's my choices so far. I think the issue of applying a thinner siding under the 5/8", in order to get some kind of run-off for water.

Use 3/8" T-111, and paint the heck out of it.

Some kind of vinyl siding, that might have some lip on one edge that would slip under the existing T-111.

Use hardiplank siding. 

Use cement board.

Any ideas for the repair, or choice of materials?












 







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## Roger Newby (May 26, 2009)

Cement board won't be affected by any moisture. Getting the plants/ground cover away from the building will also help.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> I built this shed after Wilma (2005), a 10'x12', and sided it with 5/8" T-111 (4" O/C). I painted the outside, and the bottom edge, but there is some rot along the bottom edge (about 6"-8").
> 
> For a fix I was thinking to set up a straightedge up from the bottom and just run a circular saw with the blade just deep enough to cut the siding. Then my choices are to what to put back on. Here's my choices so far. I think the issue of applying a thinner siding under the 5/8", in order to get some kind of run-off for water.
> 
> ...


 
Hi C-man - just kicking out some ideas, not to be confused with good ideas. 
Trex comes to mind. A litte thicker but a rabbet could be routed to slip under the existing T1-11. I'm aware it's not the greatest stuff on the planet. No structural strength and, unless there are special screws out there, nails and screws need to be pilot drilled. It is virtually impervious to rot though.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Funny that we just "repaired" a similar problem. The shop was totally sided with T1-11. Irrigation (fake rain) ruined some and the gable ends were flaking from the AZ sun. (ends face N east and S west). I replaced the rotted portion of one side, repainted it then applied vinyl siding, to match the house, over all of it. The vinyl on the house is 14 years old and has withstood our sun, 50 mph winds and the fake rain very well.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

One method/trick we've done is to make a horiz cut,losing rotted siding......then install a thick'ish,bevel'd drip cap(looks like water table brick,can be milled from PTP 2x4)to cover PTP 2x's that are run horiz.

The trick is to get the amt of PTP showing below,to get the "scale" right.Too low(2x6)and you don't really get a nice look.Too high(multiple 2x10's/12's)and it looks goofy as well.But get it right and its impressive.You can run an exposed,face side rabbit at dr trim.Do a Z flash under siding,lipped as far as you want on drip ledge......we usually don't cvr whole ledge.BW


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## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

how about cutting up enough for a horizontal 1 x. then you can slip a drip edge under the existing t-111. i would suggest using a vinyl 1x for the bottom. never have to paint, and will not rot.

something like this:
View attachment fix.pdf


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I thought about a Z flashing of sorts. If it is flat under the existing (top piece), water can seep under it and wick up the existing panel. That's why I was thinking of a thinner panel for the repair, to allow some overhang above.

As for what to use for the panel, doesn't hardiplank, or panel need to be painted to be water resistant? I will paint anyway, but I'm just concerned about waterproofing. How about a vinyl siding with a built in lip on one edge, that would act like a Z flashing. I'm also thinking cement board would be a good choice.












 







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## jstange2 (Dec 5, 2010)

I've seen this type of pvc trim with a lip on the one edge that could be used as a flashing.








You could always paint the t-111 before you install the flashing and trim board and leave a quarter to three-eighth inch gap so water would have less of a chance to wick up the panel. We always do this with siding that meets a roof or sits on a concrete/wood patio.
Edit.... We usually go 1" against shingles but in this case I would go less.


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## jstange2 (Dec 5, 2010)

Here is one that explains it better.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

I just did a barn with T 111, and the moisture wicks up the bottom edge. I primed the siding but didn't have time to do all the edges, so eventually I'll see some damage.


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## bEabLe4562 (Mar 2, 2014)

*Reply*

I would recommend Hardiplank. It is very durable. Just look at my signature and it might help you.


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

I made a repair like this a few years ago. Worked well. I use a lot of silicon calk. Be sure to completely seal the end grains.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Guys, this thread is 2 1/2 years old. I'm sure Cabinetman has fixed his shed by now!


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

DUH! I missed that one:wallbash::wallbash::wallbash:


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