# Built in file cabinet and storage in office area....



## Mills (Jan 23, 2012)

Hey guys, I have a 10' wall, that I have added a wall office to and am looking to make it a little more functional. 

Basically, built it with base cabinets and a tall pantry cabinet.

I would like to make one of these base cabinets into a file cabinet. I am guessing that I would need a setup, similar to that of a slide out trash can.

I really don't want to buy something that wasn't meant for the purpose, so I am going to build it myself.

Any ideas?

I would also like to do some random slide out drawers in the large pantry cabinet for DVD storage, since the built in is in the back of my Home Theater. I assume that I could buy the slide out drawers from Lowes for $50 bucks a pop, but I am thinking that I could build something better, for less.

Your thoughts?

Pictures can be sent if need be.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

First thought ...use heavy duty slides for that file drawer....they get wicked heavy and they need to be full extension.


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## Mills (Jan 23, 2012)

tcleve4911 said:


> First thought ...use heavy duty slides for that file drawer....they get wicked heavy and they need to be full extension.


By chance do you have a line on any?

I have seen several online, but I don't want to get something that isn't going to work for me.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Mills said:


> By chance do you have a line on any?
> 
> I have seen several online, but I don't want to get something that isn't going to work for me.


Most standard full extension drawer guides are rated for a load of 75 to 100 pounds. The heavy duty drawer guides in my catalog are rated at 125 to 500 pounds. They have a 200 pound one looks like it was intended for like a doctor's office where they have a file drawer 42" wide. I can't picture building a drawer to hold 500 pounds. It says nothing about a motor to open it. I think a standard drawer guide would be sufficient. I use Knape & Vogt or KVTT drawer guides because they are the least expensive offered with woodworkershardware.com who I order my hardware from.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yep!*



tcleve4911 said:


> First thought ...use heavy duty slides for that file drawer....they get wicked heavy and they need to be full extension.


File drawers are a specific height and depth/width so I don't know if you can modify a base cabinet to be the correct dimensions. You may have to make new drawer fronts and do internal work since base cabinets are seldom the correct width as a file drawer. There are lateral files that are very wide but shallow in depth. 
No matter what you will want very specific drawer slides and there are a ton of them to choose from. Rockler has a decent selection as a place to start.  bill

also here:http://www.specialtysupplies.com/


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Mills said:


> By chance do you have a line on any?
> 
> I have seen several online, but I don't want to get something that isn't going to work for me.


Special file drawer slides are available. I just installed one I bought from Woodworkers Hardware. www.wwhardware.com

It is a 24" full extension #KV8505 P24. It is more expensive than a standard full extension at $27.34. IT IS HEAVY DUTY

At full extension it is solid as a rock.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

This thread is over 2 weeks old. The OP may have solved his problem...maybe not. The least expensive slides that work just fine you can get here.

The cabinet is a basic box. The drawers can be more specialized than just an opening and you place in manilla folders. Keep in mind the height of folders when planning multiple drawers or drawer fronts, so there's no obstruction.

For file drawers, folders can be placed in "file folders" which have little clips on the ends to slide on rails. This is basically a Pendaflex type of hanging assembly. Bar stock in brass, or aluminum is available at HD in 1/8" x 1/2" in lengths up to 6' I think. For a lateral file drawer, the components for the drawer box (not the drawer front) using the front and back can be notched with a saw kerf, and the bar stock cut and placed into the grooves. The bar stock then becomes "rails" to slide the file folders front and back. 

A small space should be allowed to the outer edges of the bar stock to allow for the clips on the folders. The depth of the rails or drawer sides should allow for a file folder height (including the 1/2" tabs) when planning the drawer parts. There needs to be a small space below the file folders when they are empty so they don't ride on the drawer bottom. When you jam papers and stuff in the folders, they protrude down a bit less...but don't plan for that.

Or, you can buy a Pendaflex type frame to carry the hanging files to just set into the drawer box. Folders and frames are available for either letter size or legal size.










 







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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

Modifying a cabinet to accept file drawers can be a challenge. Since file folders (and DVD's) are a fixed size, the trick is to come up with a plan to accomodate then without wasting too much space.

Start with the dimensions of your file folder hanger, and work from there. Allow 1/2" per drawer side and another 1/2" for the drawer glides.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Dave66 said:


> Start with the dimensions of your file folder hanger, and work from there. Allow 1/2" per drawer side and another 1/2" for the drawer glides.


I figure the spacing according to what is being used. For example if the actual file folders (the manilla ones) are going to be used, to allow the interior width (and height). Then to add whatever the thickness of the drawer material might be. It may not be 1/2". Then depending on which slides, and I use full extension 100 lb, the suggested clearances from the manufacturer. Most are 1/2" pus 1/32" per side or, you can figure it as 17/32". Overall outside dimension of the drawer to be 1 1/16" or figure it as 17/16" less than the width of the opening.










 







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