# Old craftsman jointer



## Splinterworkz (Jul 12, 2016)

Bought a 6 inch craftsman jointer recently with a burned out motor. Paid 50 bucks. Now I'm finding out that a new motor is impossible to come by (discontinued). My question is does anyone k now of a substitute from like Grainger or grizzly that would work? I don't know the frame size and it's not listed on the motor. The jointer I have is craftsman 6 1/8 jointer. 113.232210. motor part number is 820064. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I used to have one of those. If I remember right, any 1/2 or 3/4 hp motor that spins 3450 rpms should work. Four bolts hold it on, nothing fancy in the mounting.
Mike Hawkins:smile3:


----------



## Splinterworkz (Jul 12, 2016)

I've been looking at all kinds of motors. The one I currently have that came with jointer looks different than most motors I've been looking at or even seen for that matter. Maybe I'll take a shot in the dark and go with a grizzly 3/4 and see if I get lucky

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Splinterworkz said:


> I've been looking at all kinds of motors. The one I currently have that came with jointer looks different than most motors I've been looking at or even seen for that matter. Maybe I'll take a shot in the dark and go with a grizzly 3/4 and see if I get lucky
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I have a jointer very similar to that one. 1/2 hp is quite enough for it which is available a lot of different places.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ebay has tons of motors*

I would go for a 1 HP motor which is what I had I my exact same jointer. It takes some power to face joint a 6" wide board, so more is better. I used mine for about 40 years, then gave it to a friend since I had a newer one.


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

So long as its not one of the ones thats built into the casting in some way, id wager you could put on just about any motor that spins the right speed that you want, you just may have to get a little creative with the mounting. Odds are though, any motor you get is just going to be a matter of bolting it down and possibly replacing the belt. 

The only real hard part is going to be recovering from the sticker shock, new motors are expensive. If youre anywhere close to springfield mo ive got a few spares in various hp ratings im not too attached to


----------



## Splinterworkz (Jul 12, 2016)

Motor connects to a bracket which connects to casting. When installed the whole motor is recessed basically into the out feed table from underneath. That's what is making it difficult. And yes new motors are expensive!! Found a guy to rebuild burnt up one for 250. I may eventually buy a new jointer if it comes down to spending 300 on a motor. I'll just save and buy what I want. Still don't want to give up on this old craftsman though. It's a cool jointer. Very sturdy

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## Splinterworkz (Jul 12, 2016)

Also I live in Phoenix Arizona so that's a fair distance...thanks though

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Splinterworkz said:


> Motor connects to a bracket which connects to casting. When installed the whole motor is recessed basically into the out feed table from underneath. That's what is making it difficult. And yes new motors are expensive!! Found a guy to rebuild burnt up one for 250. I may eventually buy a new jointer if it comes down to spending 300 on a motor. I'll just save and buy what I want. Still don't want to give up on this old craftsman though. It's a cool jointer. Very sturdy
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I think i get what youre describing, maybe. Kinda hard to be sure without actually seeing it, but id wager that fitting a new motor to the bracket wouldnt be too challenging. So long as the new motor can fit in the same general space you should be fine. Worst comes to worst though, you could just build a new shelf below the jointer for the motor to sit on and use a longer belt


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

if this jointer is on a stand, consider mounting the motor below the unit and mount the motor so the pulleys line up (as they were made later, and most are made now). this way, most any 1/2 - 3/4 motor will work for you. they are $50 used.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Exactly!*



epicfail48 said:


> I think i get what youre describing, maybe. Kinda hard to be sure without actually seeing it, but id wager that fitting a new motor to the bracket wouldnt be too challenging. So long as the new motor can fit in the same general space you should be fine. Worst comes to worst though, you could just build a new shelf below the jointer for the motor to sit on and use a longer belt





TimPa said:


> if this jointer is on a stand, consider mounting the motor below the unit and mount the motor so the pulleys line up (as they were made later, and most are made now). this way, most any 1/2 - 3/4 motor will work for you. they are $50 used.



Having the same jointer, I made a wood cabinet stand for mine which included storage and dust collection:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/woodnthings-7194/albums/craftsman-6-jointer-cabinet/


----------



## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

If it is a belt drive from the motor, any electric motor shop will have a replacement motor. Just match the rpm and hp.


----------



## Splinterworkz (Jul 12, 2016)

I may just go with a 1hp grizzly motor and build a cabinet for base. I'll be able to add dust collection as well. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Did someone say dust collection?

Go snag a HF 2HP "bagger",and don't put it together.Adapt a 1/2 or 5/8 shaft coming right out of the intake opening.It will need a pillow block bearing near it's end.Leave an inch or so hanging past bearing.Put a dbl belt pulley on to mate up with dbl pulley on jointer.

Now wrap it all in a strong base cabinet.I wouldn't bag the chips.Either blow them outside or run them into a bin of some sort.Relocate switch.Jointer and DC comes on together.

Good luck with your project.


----------



## Splinterworkz (Jul 12, 2016)

Ooo I like your style! More complicated but kind of 2 for 1

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

Has anyone here replaced a motor on a jointer? I think it could be more work (and expensive) than it may sound.

Advice to OP: please don't buy a tool with a burnt out motor in future. You never know what else could be wrong with the tool.


----------



## Splinterworkz (Jul 12, 2016)

I avoid tools such as this usually. My buddy's dad was selling his stuff due to hardships and what not. I offered 50 bucks to 1 get it out of his hair and 2. To help him out a bit. Now that I have it though I want to get it up and running. I like the challenge

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Jig_saw said:


> Has anyone here replaced a motor on a jointer? I think it could be more work (and expensive) than it may sound.
> 
> Advice to OP: please don't buy a tool with a burnt out motor in future. You never know what else could be wrong with the tool.


Jointer? No. Bandsaw, table saw, drill press, belt grinder, yup. Adapting motors to fit tools isn't really that difficult. Takes some creativity some times, but nothing insurmountable


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*motors are like hammers ...*



Jig_saw said:


> Has anyone here replaced a motor on a jointer? I think it could be more work (and expensive) than it may sound.
> 
> Advice to OP: *please don't buy a tool with a burnt out motor in future.* You never know what else could be wrong with the tool.



Bullfeathers. :surprise2:
A broken hammer handle is easily repaired, replacing a motor on a pulley drive system is just about the same. Motors have standardized bolt holes on the bases. FEMA type 56 being the most common. They have adjustment slots to increase tension on the drive belt. They have wiring diagrams on the inside covers... some can be wired to run on 220 Volts. Some can be reversed by switching one or two wires. When you have the motor located either vertically or horizontally, wrap a string or cloth tape measure around the pulleys and take that to a hardware store or v belt supplier and they will match you up with a V belt. Automotive type V belts have a different shape, so be sure to get one that is rated "fractional HP".

Motors are most reliable these days and some I own are 50 years old and running strong ... Craftsman made by Emerson electric back then. Baldor motors are Industrial Rated and last forever. Grizzly motors are very heavy duty also. Grainger sells motors, Dayton brand. Leeson is a good brand and came on my 5 HP air compressor. Marathon is another good brand. I bought a 13" Foley Belsaw thickness planer 35 years ago, no motor, and never used., stole it for $300.00. I put a Baldor 3 HP motor on it and it runs like gangbusters.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/membe...inter-cabinet/
I also completely set up the motor in the jointer cabinet thread I posted above, and it was not the original motor, instead a Harbor Freight 1 HP farm type motor.... about $70.00 on sale.

I can't believe that someone who has never replaced a motor would offer such an "uninformed" opinion. If you don't have first had experience in the subject, it's probably better not to say something that makes you look silly. JMO


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Bullfeathers. :surprise2:
> snip
> 
> I can't believe that someone who has never replaced a motor would off such an "uninformed" opinon. If you don't have first had experience in the subject, it's probably better not to say something that makes you look silly. JMO


Seems to be a bit of this going around lately. :smile3:

Never hurts to pick up any cheap motor whether you need it or not, sooner or later you will be glad you did, particularly 3/4 HP and up.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Jig_saw said:


> Has anyone here replaced a motor on a jointer? I think it could be more work (and expensive) than it may sound.
> 
> Advice to OP: please don't buy a tool with a burnt out motor in future. You never know what else could be wrong with the tool.


Changing out the motor on that jointer wouldn't be very difficult unless you start trying to put a much larger motor on it than it was designed. I don't believe the mounting plate is strong enough to hold very much more motor than it came with.


----------



## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> Changing out the motor on that jointer wouldn't be very difficult unless you start trying to put a much larger motor on it than it was designed. I don't believe the mounting plate is strong enough to hold very much more motor than it came with.


My advice to OP to avoid buying a power tool with a burnt out motor: Unless we know what caused the motor to burn out in the first place (it could be a fault in the mechanism which caused it) I would not buy such a tool. In the long run it may turn out to be more expensive than buying a fully functioning tool. Just an advice from my limited experience (I don't know why some people are getting worked up over this).:smile3:


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Jig_saw said:


> My advice to OP to avoid buying a power tool with a burnt out motor: Unless we know what caused the motor to burn out in the first place (it could be a fault in the mechanism which caused it) I would not buy such a tool. In the long run it may turn out to be more expensive than buying a fully functioning tool. Just an advice from my limited experience (I don't know why some people are getting worked up over this).:smile3:


Nobody is getting worked up, they are just throwing their thoughts in the pot. I agree with you if a tool is not working at the time of purchase to avoid it but if you can determine what the problems is and the price was right it might be worth doing. The way tools are made today you might take a bigger chance buying new.


----------



## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> Bullfeathers. :surprise2:
> A broken hammer handle is easily repaired, replacing a motor on a pulley drive system is just about the same. Motors have standardized bolt holes on the bases. FEMA type 56 being the most common. They have adjustment slots to increase tension on the drive belt. They have wiring diagrams on the inside covers... some can be wired to run on 220 Volts. Some can be reversed by switching one or two wires. When you have the motor located either vertically or horizontally, wrap a string or cloth tape measure around the pulleys and take that to a hardware store or v belt supplier and they will match you up with a V belt. Automotive type V belts have a different shape, so be sure to get one that is rated "fractional HP".
> 
> Motors are most reliable these days and some I own are 50 years old and running strong ... Craftsman made by Emerson electric back then. Baldor motors are Industrial Rated and last forever. Grizzly motors are very heavy duty also. Grainger sells motors, Dayton brand. Leeson is a good brand and came on my 5 HP air compressor. Marathon is another good brand. I bought a 13" Foley Belsaw thickness planer 35 years ago, no motor, and never used., stole it for $300.00. I put a Baldor 3 HP motor on it and it runs like gangbusters.
> ...


Well, it may look silly but I stand by my advice not to buy any power tools with a burnt out motor. If the original Craftsman motor is available (which I doubt very much), a replacement one may end up getting burnt out too. Do we know what caused the motor to burn out in the first place? Every time you replace a motor, it becomes an expensive undertaking, and if you have to do it several times, it may be downright foolish. It is much better IMO to invest in a fully functioning tool with original components.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*a jointer is a simple machine....*

In this case it's a jointer, a simple machine. Blanket statements don't make sense as a rule. Depending on the ability of the purchaser it may be a perfect buy without a motor as it was in my case, a thickness planer, again a simple machine to test on the spot for dubious bearings. A table saw is also a simple machine, 2 bearings, a "V" belt usually, some manual controls and it's easily tested for bad bearings, blade tilt and elevation and table damage or flatness. No need to fear buying one without a motor.

Spend some time searching 120 V motors and you will find hundreds of them have the same mounting base, just different cooling types and wiring. They are easy to replace or exchange. Wiring is also easy and there are diagrams galore on the web.

A jointer has two tables, a rotating cutterhead, 2 bearings, a "V" belt and a motor.... not a whole lot can go wrong. At most it may need new bearings, about $10.00 each or so and a new belt about $7.00 or so, if nothing is cracked or broken. You can spin the cutterhead by hand and listen to the bearings for clicks and smoothness.

If you have no experience in replacing or exchanging motors, then it may seem intimidating. But if you jump in and run into issues, we can help here, since many of us have experience with that. As a woodworker you will run into this issue eventually as I have several times and each time it gets easier.... the motor, the wiring, the switch, the correct length belt and a few bolts, not exactly rocket science.

Having said that, I would not buy a tool/machine with an integral motor like a circular saw, router, drill without having tested the operation in person. However, I did buy a Milwaukee 1/2 sheet sander off Ebay once because they have a good guarantee, a seller with high favorability ratings, and Pay Pal's guarantee as well. It worked like new. :smile3:


----------

