# Black Walnut Bar



## DayTripper (Jul 22, 2016)

Hi , I'm a newbie here. This last year I took on the challenge of rebuilding my entire home (down to the studs) after a very bad fire. I've taken my time, done a lot of research and finally got my occupancy. I've attempted a very modern industrial look. I'm now down to finish features and really want to do things right. I built concrete counter-tops, which I've always admired, and am now trying to offset the look with a nice dark wood breakfast/dinner bar overhang that faces the stove top area. A local sawyer had a beautiful 2 and 1/2 " piece of Black Walnut leftover which he sold me at a reasonable price. I'd really like to use it but A) want to make sure it doesn't crack too much with my wood stove in winter and B)would love to hear some suggestions on joining the two pieces together to give me the width I need (17") including glue or epoxy suggestions. Is it as simple as biscuits or are there some other options for longer runs of heavy wood? Here is what I can tell you.

1) I need a 96" L x 17" W finished product

2) The stock was too thick for my liking so hes ripping it down to 2 x 6/4 thick lengths . 8.5" wide each to join.
3) Moisture content varies from 8 to 12 along lengths at this moment in late July. I live in new England. Very muggy now. Hopefully this slows down drying too fast?
4) Supports will be 45 degree black re bar brackets for industrial look

He has suggested not fastening permanent yet until board is down to about a 6-8 moisture evenly. Then use jointer/method of marrying/ and finally planing.

Appreciate any general thoughts, suggestions or ideas. Attached a few pics before it was ripped down


Scott


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## jeremymcon (Oct 16, 2014)

So, you need to know how to glue up a panel from walnut for a countertop, correct? I'm pretty new, but I can tell you that you need to edge joint them and glue them. Use a mechanical jointer or hand planes to make the two edges you want to glue together perfectly straight, so that when you put them together you don't see any cracks or gaps. Then simply spread wood glue (titebond 2 is the one I use most often) on both of the faces you'll be gluing, ensuring full coverage, and clamp the pieces together until the glue sets. Make sure when you clamp that you use some clamps on top and on the bottom of the panel to keep from ending up with a cupped/bowed panel. 

Biscuits aren't necessary, but if you already own a biscuit jointer they can make it a bit easier to get the pieces nicely aligned during the glue up. And epoxy for edge jointing would be a bad idea. You'd end up seeing a clear line of epoxy between the boards! Wood glue is standard for this sort of operation. 

I'd think if you design the counter to allow for seasonal movement of the wood you could install the top now. Your piece is quite dry, I think. People have used air dried lumber for most of history, and here in Pennsylvania, air dried doesn't get much drier than 15-20 percent from what I've read! Wood expands and contracts across the grain, so attach the countertop with a fastener that will allow it to expand and contract. If you own a solid wood table, take a look at how it's attached to the frame. Often it's with special hardware that has a slot through which you place the screw. Screw is free to move side to side 1/4" or so depending on the width of the panel, but still holds the panel down. I've also done it with blocks of wood with slotted holes (drill two holes close together and forn the slot between them with a chisel).


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## robertwsimpson (Mar 8, 2016)

I love the look of your new place. It looks like your hard work is paying off!

Are you going to be supporting the cantilevered side with some brackets? if yes, then wood glue might be all you need. I'll let smarter people than me chime in, but I'm subscribed to see how everything turns out!


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## Cowboy18 (Aug 21, 2017)

LoL, Drive down to Texas, I'll sell you this 10' x17"x 1.5" Bartop for $650. No joining needed, bring maple syrup! As bargaining tool.


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