# Chainsaw suggestions?



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

I'm in the market for a chainsaw. I've got logs to cut up into blanks that are just too big, heavy, and ungainly to hoist up onto my bandsaw. 

Id like something with an 18" bar, and something that's not going to require constant maintenance and tuning. I would rather be woodworking than learning small engine repair. Looking for something in the 200-300 range, which I know is somewhat limited. 

What do you guys use?


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I have a Husky 353 which is a little above your budget. I have had it for about 15 years and it has never given my any trouble. I think Husky gives more bang for your buck than Stihl.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

I have a line on a husky 455 rancher w/a 50cc engine and 20" bar. In the 250 range, used. Ever use one?

Also came across a Jonsered 2255, 55cc & 20" bar. 200 bux used, looks super clean. 

I know squat about chain saws, I need all the help I can get lol


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Your requirements sort of say that you want a top quality saw which sort of means a Husky or a Stihl. After going through a few low cost saws, I bought a Stihl about 25 years ago. I'm impressed that it still starts on the second pull. I change the plug as needed and the air filter gets cleaned before it is filthy. I don't try to cut with a dull chain and I keep it clean.


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## saculnhoj (May 18, 2015)

Husky or Stihl. I have owned Husy's for over 20 years. I used one of them for over 15 years before it needed some heavy maintenance. After repair I'm still using it. I looked at Stilh hard but just couldn't justify almost double the price. I have used a lot of other brands. They all had problems, particularly restarting after use. That's a headache you don't need. The only problem I've had with the Husky's is the chain coming loose. Don't know why it happens but it's not a bad thing. I usually get a lot of cutting done before I need to sharpen so I just re tension the chain when I do that. I cut up 6 trailer loads of wood for my fireplace the other day and had to tension the chain about 4 times. That was a lot of wood.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It's been a long time since I've had one but McCulloch is the best brand I've had. They have just disappeared from store shelves in my area. When I could no longer get one I bought a Poulan saw. I never could get it started so I took it back and got another. The replacement was a little hard to start and over time increasingly got harder to start. I took the saw to multiple repair shops and nobody could make it better so I threw it away. Then I replaced it with a Stihl which wasn't a lot better but it's at least it's not getting worse. Some days by the time we can get it running I'm too tired or my arm hurts too much to use it. None of the Stihl dealers can make that saw run better either. It also seems to lack power too.


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## Stodg73 (Jul 10, 2012)

If you are cutting at home, what about using an electric saw?

Otherwise, you will need to get either a Husqvarna or Stihl. I have used both, and they both have their quirks.


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## MrFrost (Nov 10, 2014)

I just got a Echo CS-400 and I love it. $299.00 new, 40.2cc 18" bar. I jumped on a CL deal for new in box for $150.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

I have the 455 Rancher you asked about and have had no problems other than the fuel line. Once the fuel line was replaced with one less likely to fault with the ethanol gasoline I have not had a problem. New saws may have the newer fuel lines already. I do only mix one quart of fuel at the time and empty and run out all fuel in the saw before storing.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

After going through a variety of power tool brands, all of my outdoor power tools are Stihl. They've all held up well. There's a local dealer skilled in repair, but I haven't needed him much.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

I buy all Stihl lawn equipment, buy once cry once they say.

That said as others have stated Husky and Stihl seem to be the top choices for chain saws. I was fortunate to find a near new Echo at a garage sale over 10 years ago, got it for $100, it's done everything I've asked of it, and I have abused it a little. The bar adjustment is a little quirky, and it seems to need more attention than I would expect, other than that it hangs on the wall about 98% of the time. Starts when I need it, and cuts what I want to cut.

More key is to use non-ethanol fuel, and a good quality 2 stroke oil. I run a high end synthetic, after years of racing 2 strokes I know the difference in oils, and how they affect the life of a 2 stroke motor.


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## Woodychips (Oct 3, 2015)

I have two Stihl chainsaws, one gas one electric. Can't recommend them enough. The gas saw is a MS270 and has never given me grief. It has a 20" bar on it but you can get the 18" as well. Mine can sit for months between uses but always starts. The key is to put gas stabilizer in with your mix. Plenty of power for huge logs. 

The electric is what I use in my shop. Model MSE200 with a 20" bar as well. This one gets daily usage and kicks ass. It has a loggers chain and the saw will cut through 30" logs if needed. It also has enough power for me to cross cut lengthwise. 

Go with a Stihl.


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

I think you'll need to stick closer to the $300 range to get something decent, unless you run into a closetout deal or sale price.....used might be the ticket too. Stihl and Husky make some great saws, but nearly all of the $200 saws are strictly consumer grade regardless of brand. Echo and Dolmar (Makita) are other reputable names. Having one that can be locally serviced is a good idea. What you feed it will make a difference too....use ethanol free fuel, good two stroke and bar oil.


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

I use an electric WORX chainsaw in my shop for cutting bowl blanks. I do a lot of my wood working at night the saw has either a 16 or an 18 inch blade and have no complaints about it except it does make a h**l of a mess inside.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Thanks for all the responses guys. I live in a development in a semi-rural area and I'm agonizing over whether I will make enemies out of my otherwise friendly neighbors with a loud chainsaw. I was skeptical of the electric saws but I think I will check them out.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

So it was a bit beyond my stated budget, but I went after work today and ordered a Stihl MSE 250. Figured a high price only hurts one time but a crappy saw will irritate me every time I pick it up, until it breaks lol. It will run a 3/8" chain on a 20" bar, with a 15 amp motor. I have one empty slot in my panel so I'll wire up a dedicated 20 amp recep circuit this weekend. Pick up the saw from the local dealer on Tuesday!


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## Woodychips (Oct 3, 2015)

My best purchase was my electric chainsaw. Wouldn't part with it.


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## Woodychips (Oct 3, 2015)

Good purchase. Make sure to use a heavier Ext cord with it. Don't want to starve the motor with a long skinny cord.


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

I will be honest, when I first even heard of an electric chainsaw I thought "that is a really STUPID idea!!! That is not practical at all" Well I read somewhere that people were using them to cut firewood in their garages or unfinished basements in the winter if they ran out of firewood. I thought that I could do that with cutting bowl blanks in my shop or in my barn, a lot quieter, a lot lighter, but you do have to watch not to cut the electric cord!!!!!


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

Stihl


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

dirty-curty said:


> I will be honest, when I first even heard of an electric chainsaw I thought "that is a really STUPID idea!!! That is not practical at all" Well I read somewhere that people were using them to cut firewood in their garages or unfinished basements in the winter if they ran out of firewood. I thought that I could do that with cutting bowl blanks in my shop or in my barn, a lot quieter, a lot lighter, but you do have to watch not to cut the electric cord!!!!!


I have both gas and electric chain saws. I use the electric to cut up the smaller stuff and also in applications where it's cumbersome to operate the heavier gas saw. Recently I've been cutting a tree down from the top down so I feel safer using the electric saw 20' off the ground in a tree. I think the Worx chainsaw was only around fifty bucks and it cuts good.


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## screaminghollow (Jan 3, 2016)

It is easy to say, choose this brand or that. A really great saw isn't worth crap if you can't get parts or service. I have had several POS saws over 20 years. The John Deere was the absolute worst. Keep in mind that big box stores sell specially made models that are not necessarily the same as you get from a full service dealer. For a while Home Depot sold some real POS made in China Husky chain saws. When I got tired of the crap saws, (Poulon, Home Lite, McCulloch, Sears) I bought a Stihl farm boss in 2003 and have never been happier. Why the Stihl? I have two full service Stihl dealers within 5 miles of home. There is an Echo Dealer closer, but I had such problems with them when trying to get parts for my Ariens lawn tractor that I decided not to subject myself to their ineptitude further. Since then we have acquired a Stihl pole saw, a little 14 inch Stihl chain saw, a Stihl weed wacker, and a Stihl hedge trimmer. I have never needed service for factory defects or problems. I have needed to replace the studs that hold the bar because I over tightened them. Replaced the fuel filter and air filter. I heat my house with wood in an out door boiler. Takes about 8 cords per season. The Stihls never failed to start. 

Stihl is good, The Better Huskys are good. My dad swears by Echo products, but has a better dealer near his property. Take one look at the landscape service trailers and see what they have. See where the local dealers are. Talk to others who use chain saws heavily and ask their recommendations. 

Visit the dealers. A Stihl dealer will not hand you a box. They will put it together and start it and adjust it. Then they will instruct you on starting. I found that Stihl chains are much better then the discount store Oregon chains and about the same price. I did buy a cheap harbor freight chain sharpener for $30 works great. 

I cut up a large walnut for bowl blanks in February. 22 inches in diameter. A 20 inch bar would not quite saw through. I got blanks that were suitable for bowls up to 17 inches in diameter and 9 to 10 inches from base to top. I don't thinkl there is an electric chain saw available that can handle that kind of thick wood. If you want to cut blanks for little 5 inch bowls, it may be good.

Cutting a cross the grain cut is one thing. That is what most chain saws are made for and for which the chain tooth angle is ground for. When you rip cut a log section (with the grain) to split the log section length wise into bowl blanks, you need a sharp chain. A slightly different tooth angle helps too. If you cut on one side and then the other because your saw can't reach across, you will waste more of the blank when cutting.


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## BobJax (Apr 17, 2016)

BZawat said:


> Thanks for all the responses guys. I live in a development in a semi-rural area and I'm agonizing over whether I will make enemies out of my otherwise friendly neighbors with a loud chainsaw. I was skeptical of the electric saws but I think I will check them out.


Have 3 chain saws. All for different jobs. Worx electric, as many have said here, is a great saw. 
Hated the constant adjustments on a couple of other chainsaws in the past. The Worx makes life easier. Tightening the chain is a breeze.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

screaminghollow said:


> It is easy to say, choose this brand or that. A really great saw isn't worth crap if you can't get parts or service. I have had several POS saws over 20 years. The John Deere was the absolute worst. Keep in mind that big box stores sell specially made models that are not necessarily the same as you get from a full service dealer. For a while Home Depot sold some real POS made in China Husky chain saws. When I got tired of the crap saws, (Poulon, Home Lite, McCulloch, Sears) I bought a Stihl farm boss in 2003 and have never been happier. Why the Stihl? I have two full service Stihl dealers within 5 miles of home. There is an Echo Dealer closer, but I had such problems with them when trying to get parts for my Ariens lawn tractor that I decided not to subject myself to their ineptitude further. Since then we have acquired a Stihl pole saw, a little 14 inch Stihl chain saw, a Stihl weed wacker, and a Stihl hedge trimmer. I have never needed service for factory defects or problems. I have needed to replace the studs that hold the bar because I over tightened them. Replaced the fuel filter and air filter. I heat my house with wood in an out door boiler. Takes about 8 cords per season. The Stihls never failed to start. Stihl is good, The Better Huskys are good. My dad swears by Echo products, but has a better dealer near his property. Take one look at the landscape service trailers and see what they have. See where the local dealers are. Talk to others who use chain saws heavily and ask their recommendations. Visit the dealers. A Stihl dealer will not hand you a box. They will put it together and start it and adjust it. Then they will instruct you on starting. I found that Stihl chains are much better then the discount store Oregon chains and about the same price. I did buy a cheap harbor freight chain sharpener for $30 works great. I cut up a large walnut for bowl blanks in February. 22 inches in diameter. A 20 inch bar would not quite saw through. I got blanks that were suitable for bowls up to 17 inches in diameter and 9 to 10 inches from base to top. I don't thinkl there is an electric chain saw available that can handle that kind of thick wood. If you want to cut blanks for little 5 inch bowls, it may be good. Cutting a cross the grain cut is one thing. That is what most chain saws are made for and for which the chain tooth angle is ground for. When you rip cut a log section (with the grain) to split the log section length wise into bowl blanks, you need a sharp chain. A slightly different tooth angle helps too. If you cut on one side and then the other because your saw can't reach across, you will waste more of the blank when cutting.


 If you cut that much wood do yourself a huge favor and buy a pro saw. After you use a pro saw the only time you will use the farm boss is when you get the good saw pinched and need to cut it free. Try a Husky 550XP or a Stihl MS261. A 555xp puts out equal hp ( actually better but a rating is a rating) to a farm boss, but weighs 3 pounds less.


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## Ned Lamont (Apr 8, 2016)

I have used stihl chainsaws in the past an love them. However I now live in a neighborhood and recently purchased a craftsman 18 inch electric chainsaw. They go for $100 and I was pleasantly surprised at the power it produced.


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## Woodychips (Oct 3, 2015)

screaminghollow said:


> I cut up a large walnut for bowl blanks in February. 22 inches in diameter. A 20 inch bar would not quite saw through. I got blanks that were suitable for bowls up to 17 inches in diameter and 9 to 10 inches from base to top. I don't thinkl there is an electric chain saw available that can handle that kind of thick wood. If you want to cut blanks for little 5 inch bowls, it may be good. Cutting a cross the grain cut is one thing. That is what most chain saws are made for and for which the chain tooth angle is ground for. When you rip cut a log section (with the grain) to split the log section length wise into bowl blanks, you need a sharp chain. A slightly different tooth angle helps too. If you cut on one side and then the other because your saw can't reach across, you will waste more of the blank when cutting.


My Stihl electric with a 20" bar had no problem cutting through my 28" diameter black cherry log this past winter. If you start at the top of the log and cut downwards on the far side and then swing down on the front side you can cut through in one pass. As far as doing a rip cut, I don't change saw chains or the angle of the teeth. What I do is leave a bit more slack in the chain to let the long wood ribbons flow. Stihl simply makes a beast of an electric chainsaw but you do need to get the most powerful model.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Woodychips said:


> My Stihl electric with a 20" bar had no problem cutting through my 28" diameter black cherry log this past winter. If you start at the top of the log and cut downwards on the far side and then swing down on the front side you can cut through in one pass. As far as doing a rip cut, I don't change saw chains or the angle of the teeth. What I do is leave a bit more slack in the chain to let the long wood ribbons flow. Stihl simply makes a beast of an electric chainsaw but you do need to get the most powerful model.


Thanks for the cutting pointers! The dealer called me yesterday to tell me the saw came in, but I have too much going on this week to pick it up. Probably won't get to it until Saturday. The anticipation is killing me lol

Have you ever tried to put a ripping chain on your MSE200?


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Picked it up today!!


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## Woodychips (Oct 3, 2015)

BZawat said:


> Thanks for the cutting pointers! The dealer called me yesterday to tell me the saw came in, but I have too much going on this week to pick it up. Probably won't get to it until Saturday. The anticipation is killing me lol Have you ever tried to put a ripping chain on your MSE200?


No need to use as ripping chain as far as I can see. I would need two saws then with each chain. It works as explained above in a previous post of mine. Here's a picture of my saw. The chain is way too loose as you can see but a bit of slack will allow you to rip. Your saw looks good. Didn't know there was a mse200 model. Maybe a step down from mine. Enjoy!


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## screaminghollow (Jan 3, 2016)

First I haven't been shopping for saws and didn't know there were 20 inch bar electric. Must take a pretty serious extension cord to handle the amps. 
Second, I have 50 acres. I'd rather cut the wood where the log falls than pick up or tote logs to the nearest electrical outlet. 

You don't need two saws for cutting and ripping. In the old days of hand saws, yes there were two different saws with different teeth patterns. Perhaps, at most, you need two chains. Although, I found the better ripping chain was the one without the anti-kickback bumps in the chain. (for those who don't know, most "home owner saws" take chains that have bumps between the teeth to minimize the depth of cut of the teeth and to prevent kickback. Once you get up to the heavier duty saws, you can get chains without the anti-kickback feature. It permits the teeth to grab and cut deeper. 

It is usually prefereable to have two regular chains anyway. Never know when you will find a spike, wire, stone etc, embedded deep inside a log. Don't take but a second to dull a chain. 

When a person does a lot of sawing, there are different tooth angle grinds for green wood, hardwood, etc.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Woodychips said:


> No need to use as ripping chain as far as I can see. I would need two saws then with each chain. It works as explained above in a previous post of mine. Here's a picture of my saw. The chain is way too loose as you can see but a bit of slack will allow you to rip. Your saw looks good. Didn't know there was a mse200 model. Maybe a step down from mine. Enjoy!


My mistake, I thought you said yours was a 200. I bought the 250, I believe it's just the newer version of your 220.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

screaminghollow said:


> First I haven't been shopping for saws and didn't know there were 20 inch bar electric. Must take a pretty serious extension cord to handle the amps. Second, I have 50 acres. I'd rather cut the wood where the log falls than pick up or tote logs to the nearest electrical outlet. You don't need two saws for cutting and ripping. In the old days of hand saws, yes there were two different saws with different teeth patterns. Perhaps, at most, you need two chains. Although, I found the better ripping chain was the one without the anti-kickback bumps in the chain. (for those who don't know, most "home owner saws" take chains that have bumps between the teeth to minimize the depth of cut of the teeth and to prevent kickback. Once you get up to the heavier duty saws, you can get chains without the anti-kickback feature. It permits the teeth to grab and cut deeper. It is usually prefereable to have two regular chains anyway. Never know when you will find a spike, wire, stone etc, embedded deep inside a log. Don't take but a second to dull a chain. When a person does a lot of sawing, there are different tooth angle grinds for green wood, hardwood, etc.


Well I have .5 acres, and a neighbor on either side lol. Hence the difference in our saw choices


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

BZawat said:


> Well I have .5 acres, and a neighbor on either side lol. Hence the difference in our saw choices


 So they probably wouldn't like it if I fired up my 372XP which is like 119 decibels?


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

hwebb99 said:


> So they probably wouldn't like it if I fired up my 372XP which is like 119 decibels?


That would be a great big negative haha


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

BZawat said:


> That would be a great big negative haha


 But just think how fast it cuts. 😀


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Finally got to give this saw a run after work today. Cut into half of a shag hickory crotch log, 18" wide x about 14" thick. Saw made the cut in about 20 seconds. For an electric saw with the stock anti-kickback chain on it, I am totally satisfied! 
Rip cutting was a little slower but that's to be expected I guess. Especially on account of the harder crotch grain and the stock chain.


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