# Best Way to Avoid Chipping



## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

I just got my table saw a week or so ago. I am still using the blade that came with it, which I think it s 24T blade. The only thing I have made so far is 2 sleds. I noticed that on my last sled I saw a lot of chipping on the kerf cut and more chipping after when making the fences our of plywood. I am hoping to make some furniture soon so I really don't want chipping on thing that will get a finish on it.

I have been reading and I have seen mentions of the zero clearance plate around the blade and also mentions of raising the blade higher.

So what is the best way to avoid the chipping? I am also assuming that the blade can make a big difference. Any suggestions on the best blade to use and how to know when its time to replace it?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The more teeth you have the better at cross cutting. Using the 24T blade if you put masking tape on the back side and rub it on real hard it will minimize the chipping. First chance you get purchase a 40T blade. It's a pretty all round blade to use for both solid wood and plywood. With plywood an 80T blade would be better but it wouldn't cut solid wood well at all.


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

Yes to the zero clearance insert. Also, for cutting plywood, you might consider a high angle top bevel blade. I bought my first one a short time ago and I'm pretty impressed with the smooth cuts and minimal chip-out and edge fuzzyness.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

I call bull feathers.
the only way to prevent tear out on cross cuts is to "back up" the work piece with a sacrificial board.
the 'back up' board pressed/clamped to the work piece supports the 'being cut at outfeed' fibers.

alternative"
leave the work pcs "too thick" so if there is tear out, it will be eliminated when planed down to final thickness.
if you don't have a thickness planner, that's not an option.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

I don’t mind sacrificing a piece but I don’t have enough material to do that for every cut.

Any idea where I can buy zci? I see lots of things about making it but I’d rather just buy it. I don’t have a router table which most say you need to make a zci. Plus I want to start cutting sooner lol.


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

Easy to make and you don't need a router to do it. Use your jig saw or band saw to rough it out. Refine the shape with rasp or coarse sandpaper so that it fits the opening. Screw it down with your blade below the table. Turn on the saw and slowly raise the blade through it.
Otherwise, check out the woodworking supply places on the web such as Rockler, WoodCraft, or even Amazon, etc. You should be able to find some there.
I have never purchased a zci and I'm not sure if they are available ready cut for a particular saw or not. I suspect that they come sized approximately and you have to cut to fit as above.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

The blade you're using is for ripping - cutting a board to width going with with grain. No matter what tricks you try with tape or even a ZCI, you're going to get horrible tearout because the teeth are flat ground.

As Steve mentioned, you can start with general purpose or combo type blade. 40T is a good choice, any blade with ATB teeth.

The blades that come on many machines are often off brand & not good quality. No matter how good your machine is, it will preform better with a good quality blade such as Freud, CMT, Amana. 

Last but by no means least, I implore you, before you use your table saw again, go to some reputable sources and learn about safety and correct usage of your table saw!! 

Second, before you use your saw again, go through the standard alignment checks. You can find this information on an Google search or YouTube.

Safety begins between the ears. Every time you turn your saw on, think about what it could do to you, the cut you are making, and always use push stick or push block where applicable.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

DrRobert said:


> The blade you're using is for ripping - cutting a board to width going with with grain. No matter what tricks you try with tape or even a ZCI, you're going to get horrible tearout because the teeth are flat ground.
> 
> As Steve mentioned, you can start with general purpose or combo type blade. 40T is a good choice, any blade with ATB teeth.
> 
> ...


More likely just a cheap "combination" blade that is sold to be used for ripping AND cross cuts. Something like this;
IRWIN® Classic 10" x 24-Tooth Combination Circular Saw Blade at Menards®


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