# Blotchy finish?



## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Below is some pics of a trunk lid. I think the finish came up pretty blotchy. However, there seems to be some grain sticking up in many places. The rest of the trunk has the same exact finish and came fairly even. Anyway can I sand this down and fix it, or is it best to buy some better wood?

What I used:
Minwax wood conditioner
Minwax walnut stain
General finishes, arm-r-seal semi-gloss top coat




























The finish isn't dry in the pics, fyi.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It would be easier to start over with a better selection of wood. But, if you use this, you'd need to strip it and sand it.












 









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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> It would be easier to start over with a better selection of wood. But, if you use this, you'd need to strip it and sand it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, kinda what I thought. :sad: It almost has a burnt look to it. Some people like that look I guess?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cheese9988 said:


> Yeah, kinda what I thought. :sad: It almost has a burnt look to it. Some people like that look I guess?



Some people do. It was pretty popular in the 70's.












 









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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

straight mineral spirits work beter than minwax conditioner.also on wood like that you need to tone the light areas, using a gel stain is better for that. i prefure a gell its esier to blend color.with a penatrating stain after putting it on you get what it gives you.
i agree with starting over and better wood.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Thanks guys. It was free wood, so I'm not complaining there.


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## monty1975 (Apr 6, 2009)

What sanding grit did you use? It almost looks like you went too fine and the lighter sections of the wood would not take the stain. A coarser grit might have given you a more uniform (and much darker) color.

Brian


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## Jr.Woodchuck (Nov 9, 2010)

Your wood looks like pine. On pine sand to 180 grit and stop. I use a shellac 1 pound cut for my conditioner coat. It seals the wood so most of the dark spots will not take stain as well. Test this on a piece of scrap. You may need another coat of shellac to get rid of all the dark spot. Gel stain is a lot easier to use in my book. Additional coats of shellac over the top of your stain can also help you fill the grain. Sand with 220 of even 320 between coats. When the grain is filled to your liking. Sand final coat with whatever grit you were using and put several top coats of your finish on. In some cases, depending on what my top coat is, I will use a 2 pound cut of shellac to seal the stain.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

i dont think SEALING the wood b4 staining is a very good idea. then your lighter area's wont exept hardly any stain and your right back wher you started.
the only time i would SEAL the wood first is if i was doing a glaze over it.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

I finished it with 180 grit and a ros.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

So you just wipe on strait mineral spirits. Do you let it dry first or do you apply stain right away?


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## monty1975 (Apr 6, 2009)

Something doesn't seem right - 180 grit sand on pine + walnut stain should result in a very dark color. If the overall color was very dark the blotches would hardly stand out. Was the sanding disk full or dull?

Brian


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

New disc. the stain directions actually recommend 220 grit. The finish is a little darker, I took the pics with a camera phone and I flooded it with light.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

you dont want the ms to dry usually aply stain within 15 min.
220 is just fine.


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