# Radial Arm Saw Difficult to Raise and Lower



## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

Folks, 


For about 10 years, I've been the proud owner of a Craftsman Table Saw...speficially this model: 

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=4581


It looks like this: 

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=1329

Though that isn't mine specifically. 


Anyway - I got it for free - it was mostly disused, but I've cleaned it up and have been using it more than any other tool in my shop for the last few years. (mostly I've been doing home improvement stuff, etc...which involves a lot of trim cutting, etc...so the RAS has been excellent.)


So it really has been dead-on. 

The only problem has been raising or lowering the saw. It is INCREDIBLY difficult. Its much harder to raise it than to lower it. The crank meets lots of resistence - though it does raise the column and lower it again successfully. It just _hurts_ to do it. 

So here's my question: What are the checks that I need to make/steps I need to take in order to allow this saw to raise and lower correctly and easily? (I'm assuming that it shouldn't be as difficult to raise as it is.) 

I'm looking for any suggestions. 

Thanks so much in advance. 

PS. The saw is consistently difficult to raise along the length of the column - meaning it takes the same amount of force to raise it no matter what the height is. Lowering it is much faster, but still difficult.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*probably time for some grease and oil*

There are several places to oil on this saw. One is a center hole on the cap that tops the column. Shoot some spray or a few pumps in that hole. the next one requires removing the top. On the gear box that the long crank from the front runs into there's an oval shaped hole above the crank shoot some oil in there.
Next oil the bushing on the face of the saw on the crank.
And last make sure the couln itself has a liberal coat of spray lube that will run down in between the casting and the column. 
If that doesn't make it a whole lot better, then surgery is required and that means removing the cover off the gear box and cleaning out the grease that has solidified and replacing it with new lithium grease. While the table is off you may as well do that anyway.  bill

BTW You might check the cranks in/out position and see if can move and if it's easier to raise in more or out more ..... A clip may be missing to retain it in position or that may be the function of the cover, I'm not sure.


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## Murphy's Law (Dec 15, 2011)

I have that exact same model. I use it for almost everything and it's a real reliable workhorse. About 10 years ago it got a little stubborn on raising and lowering. Eventually I had to disassemble it. I found no grease in the gear box and just about every moving contact point was dry. I cleaned everything as well as I could, used lithium grease in the gear box and used graphite on every friction point I could find. For ten years now it has raised and lowered smooth and free.

You may want to inspect/adjust the friction adjustment screw on the back of the cast iron column. There is a fiber part in there that applies pressure on the column. It may need re-adjustment.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I had the same model. I would go with the lithium grease and check for a loose gear box. If the gear box / shaft / lowering threaded rod are loose, they can bind...


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I'm a little scared of lithium grease as the factory stuff on my ~'90 Craftsman RAS hardened and turned to glue as the years went by. Since then I've been using a synthetic grease for things like that (Syn-Lube, I think the name is). 

Get that elevation mechanism fixed, though. If it gets much harder you may end up looking at broken parts. I recently picked up a '60's Rockwell RAS that is stiff to crank up and down. I checked and parts of some of the teeth are missing on the steel bevel gears that control the elevation. I plan to pull the whole column assembly apart and clean/lube everything.

Bill


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## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

Ok, 

Thanks. Looks like I have several good places to lubricate. 

By the way, I did try loosening the set screws in the back, to see if that was the main problem. As it turns out, they were easily adjustable, and gave no resistance to my adjusting - i would half expect there to be some resistance felt when loosening those screws if they were the cause of my problem. 

Not sure if I'm thinking about that correctly. However - no fear - I will start lubing away. It sounds like the box at the bottom of the column where the crankshaft (?) meets it is where I need some good lubrication.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

skippy39us said:


> Ok,
> 
> Thanks. Looks like I have several good places to lubricate.
> 
> ...


NOt sure what set screws you are referring to. The columns come in 2 types, 2 halves bolted together and one piece with a
center adjustment wedge. Like these:


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## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

I'm referring to the second pic w the wedge. there are two set screws on either side of the center wedge thingy. I suppose the wedge itself could be too tight...haven't messed with it.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's a bit tricky*

The wedge is what keeps the wiggle out of the column upper.
It may be too tight, but wouldn't tighten of it's own accord. 
If it were smooth/easy to raise previously then that ain't it. :no: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Before I would do any mechanical adjustments, I would do a thorough lubrication of all the contact parts. Could be some internal rusting, dust, or other debris.











 







.


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## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

Yes....I will do the lubrication first. I should point out that the entire time I've had it, it has been hard to raise. I assume it was easy to raise when new. Either way i'll lube it up. 

Do i need to use alot of lithium grease for the contact points? Or just a little?


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## Fins59 (Oct 16, 2011)

I probably have the same saw. I think I purchased mine in 1975. Still works fine, raises and lowers like new. Never oiled or greased anything. Can't really add anything to above tips.

But, in case you're interested, there is a recall on this era RAS. Just google "Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Recall" for details. On the web site they will list model numbers and if yours is on the list you can contact them (Emerson Tool Co) on-line and they will send you a blade guard, a new handle, and a complete new table, all free of charge, shipping included. My saw qualified and I received all this stuff about 2 weeks after contacting them. Haven't found time yet to make the upgrade. There's a couple of Youtube videos out there showing how a couple guys installed theirs.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Do you have the instructions, along with pictures of the set screws in the back? It's hard to figure out nwhat they do, without at least a picture.
A while ago, somewhere on the net, I downloaded a field service manual for those saws. Not sure where it is! You should look for it. It's very helpful, if not nesceeary to have for proper adjustment.
If you need any parts, I have a parts saw, with all but the motor and carriage.
Bye the way, if you send a saw back on the recall, for the $100, be sure to get a receipt from Fed Ex, and have them specify, the address it's going to.
I recently sent 2 saws back, in the 2 boxes they sent me and only got a chack for 1. Calling them (1 girl, claims to handle the whole show) she claimed, she had no record of sending the 2nd box, or receiving the 2nd saw. RIPPED OFF! Wonder who kept my check?


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## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

Folks. I was able to successfully lubricate the saw at the bottom of the column where the crankshaft meets the raising mechanism. And yes..it was dry. 

I also sprayed PB on the column itself, in the key way as well. Also i lubricated inside the column. - i noticed that inside there was a 5/8" rod surrounded by a rectangular colar that rode up and down it. So thats been lubed as well. 


Raising is much easier. I notice that its still not the best but it will do. 


Thanks to all for your help.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

skippy39us said:


> Folks. I was able to successfully lubricate the saw at the bottom of the column where the crankshaft meets the raising mechanism. And yes..it was dry.
> 
> I also sprayed PB on the column itself, in the key way as well. Also i lubricated inside the column. - i noticed that inside there was a 5/8" rod surrounded by a rectangular colar that rode up and down it. So thats been lubed as well.
> 
> ...


Sometimes there's a simple fix. Glad to hear lubing helped.










 







.


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## GaryRoach (Jan 30, 2012)

Hi

Your saw is a different model than mine but may be similar enough. You absolutely must have a manual. The procedure for adjusting the blade perpendicular to the rip fence will probably call for adjustment of some set screws in the front of the column. These are pretty touchy on my model and can cause the column to bind if too tight. Also there are 2 yokes that act as bearings for the column that need to be tweeked to get the column to slide properly. 

If the unit has been dropped, like mine was, you might find that the shaft from the crank to the gear assembly is bent. To find out you need to expose the gear assembly and watch the end of the shaft as someone turns it. A machine shop can probably streighten it for a few bucks.

Maybe the shaft just needs cleaning and oiling.

GaryRoach


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## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

Actually, 

everything looks like it was in working order - nothing was bent. The saw itself just needed some TLC after having been neglected for a long time. ALthough I've been using it for 10 years, I never lubricated any of the critical areas. 

Its still a little difficult to raise and lower, but it is much better. I've ordered a new crank handle (the one I have is NOT the original one with the saw, and it has some play in it. Don't like that too much. ) 

Also, not sure if the set-screws in the back would be the problem. The saw is VERY easy to lower (its working with gravity.) Its raising it that is harder - though again - its still MUCH better than it was.

:thumbup:




GaryRoach said:


> Hi
> 
> Your saw is a different model than mine but may be similar enough. You absolutely must have a manual. The procedure for adjusting the blade perpendicular to the rip fence will probably call for adjustment of some set screws in the front of the column. These are pretty touchy on my model and can cause the column to bind if too tight. Also there are 2 yokes that act as bearings for the column that need to be tweeked to get the column to slide properly.
> 
> ...


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

GaryRoach said:


> Hi
> 
> Your saw is a different model than mine but may be similar enough. You absolutely must have a manual. The procedure for adjusting the blade perpendicular to the rip fence will probably call for adjustment of some set screws in the front of the column. These are pretty touchy on my model and can cause the column to bind if too tight. Also there are 2 yokes that act as bearings for the column that need to be tweeked to get the column to slide properly.
> 
> ...


In this day in age, can you really get a machine shop to do anything, for "a few bucks"?
Maybe a retired person, with a lathe in his basement.


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## skippy39us (Jan 26, 2012)

Fortunately, I am still able to get several parts for the saw at: 

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Saw-Parts/Model-11323100/0247/0744500?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11323100


Thats where I've just ordered a new crank for it. :thumbsup:


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