# Skil table saw - 3410



## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

I'll start out by saying I'm a total newbie, so bear with me. 

Here's what my issue is. I'm setting up a new workshop. I already have a cheapie table saw and I'm looking for a dado blade for it. I can't find a reasonably priced dado blade anywhere. I did find a bunch of 8 inch blades. Could I use them in a 10 inch table saw, or is that a no no? 

Also, can anyone recommend a decent beginner router? Thanks for lending an opinion!


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I have a skil 3400. I don't have a dado set, so I cannot talk about if the arbor bolt is long enough to use a dado set with or not.

10" blades are designed to be able to protrude out of the top by 3 inches. You will never make a dado that is 3" deep; at most. it might be 3/4". So an 8" blade is plenty large enough for a dado set.

For an inexpensive router, I would recommend the Ryobi plunge router. They are under $100, and have variable speeds and soft start. And the Milescraft template kit works with it, but you need to call them to get them to send a couple of bolts to attach it. Plunge routers can do everything a fixed base router can do, and some things they cannot do, like start in the middle of a piece.


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## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

Awesome! I can't wait to start building things! Thanks so much for your guidance!


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## carpenter1 (Jul 5, 2010)

It would be a good idea to get you a router table too. Being a beginner, the table will help you develop your skills and confidence.


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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

I've just moved up to a r3410. I got it for Christmas, and I got stuck trying to put the stand together. :huh: I've been busy, but I'll get back to it. You should be able to put a 8" dado set on it, and that will make dadoes as deep as you will ever need. 

I bought a plunge/fixed router kit from Canadian Tire a few years ago. It is similar to what you might get from Ryobi. It's 11 amp, and does everything I have needed to do so far. I also got a Ryobi router table, and last year I bought a used Skil router to put in the table as I got tired of switching it out. I use the router for cutting dadoes at present, as I don't have a dado set.

Don't look for a 'beginner router'. There really isn't such a thing. Get the best you can afford, with the power to do what you will need to do.


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## sweensdv (Mar 3, 2008)

My first table saw was a Skil 3400 and if memory serves me the widest dado you will be able to cut is ½" I can't recall for certain but you also may be limited to using a 6" dado set which even if you're not is probably a better choice anyways for that saw. Your Owners Manual should have this information in it.


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## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

How about that. There was a bunch of useful information in the owners manual. 

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I'm gonna grab the ryobi plunge router and start with a simple bookshelf for my daughters room. Here goes nothing!

Thanks again! I'm sure I'll be posting tons of dumb questions!


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## Bonedoc (Jan 14, 2013)

So here's my .02... It was explained to me that the 10" table saw was design to turn a single blade 10" in diameter, when begin to stack blades you need to decrease the overall diameter of the blade set to allow the motor to generate its load without straining too hard. That may be total BS but I just figured that is why my dado stack is only 8" in diameter for my 10" craftsman saw. I was also informed that the wobble head dados will not give you a tru bottom like the stack dados or even better the routed dado. Just something to chew on... Hope it helps


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I agree*



sweensdv said:


> My first table saw was a Skil 3400 and if memory serves me the widest dado you will be able to cut is ½" I can't recall for certain but you also may be limited to using *a 6" dado set which even if you're not is probably a better choice anyways for that saw.* Your Owners Manual should have this information in it.


There are few, if any times I need the full depth of an 8" dado.
Usually I'm making 1/4" to 3/4" deep dados for shelves or half laps joints, so a 6" will work for you. 
The other issue is whether you can stack enough blades and cutters on your arbor safely. You will have to remove the inner washer, if you have one, and leave off the outer one also to get a 3/4" wide stack at best.
The last issue is a dado insert for the saw table.
DO NOT use the dado set without a proper sized opening insert. 
Finally, save your money, unless you find a cheap set at a yard sale, and just use a router. You can make a T square guide for your router base and make dados of any width using either a 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" bit and making several passes if need be. Like this:






Routers are a great investment and are basically 2 types, fixed base or plunge. To change the height on a fixed base, you have to loosen a lock and either rotate the motor or twist a height knob or ring. Each time you change the height you should make a test cut to see if it's correct.

A plunge base has a platform with different height steps and a rod which sits on the step to determine the depth of the cut. Or you can swing the platform over and just plunge down as far as you want. You have to push against the spring that keeps the router in the UP position, no big deal. You can lock the motor at any given height and again make practice cuts to see if your depth is correct. 
The best bargain is to buy a kit with both bases. Craftsman has always been a good bang for the buck in router kits. I own Porter Cable, Freud, Trend and Milwaukee all of which are good. I don't have any experience with Skil, Black and Decker, or Ryobi. Bosch is highly recommended by lots of folks here. Triton is also recommended here.
Every router maker has decided they know best when it comes to guide bushing and lots of them are unique in size. The "industry standard" is the Porter Cable guide bushing, and they can be found in brass at Harbor Freight for about $15.00, half of the price of others, but just as good. I have several sets because I sometimes need to shorten the bushing for a particular operation and just file/grind off the brass, no big deal.
Finally, a router in a table will allow you a whole new world of of operations not possible holding it by hand. At first, I had a 1 HP Craftsman router in an Craftsman aluminum table and it was OK until a knew more what I was doing and graduated in size, power, and price. I now have Porter Cable routers in 3 1/4 HP, in Jess Em lifts and cast iron tables ...about ^ $900.00 or so for the whole shootin' match. So, starting out just get a decent setup and you can always, "move on up" as the Jeffersons would say. Free free to come back with specific questions and makes and models, we are here to help. :yes:


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## afx (Feb 5, 2010)

My first saw was a Black and Decker Firestorm and besides being ridiculously loud it worked well(ish)

I would keep my eye out on craigslist, you can get REALLY good quality items for less than buying a new not so quality item.


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