# How to Trim/Rip 2x6x10?



## hunterswerdloff (Dec 9, 2020)

Hi all,

I will be building a 10 ft long dining table in the next few weeks. I’d like to trim off the round edges of the 2x6s I’ll be using for the table top so they all sit flush to each other for the glue-up. For shorter table tops, I’ve used a jig that I build for my table saw that allows me to rip off the edges and get a perfect cut even if the edge of the board has wobbles or is warped. However, the jig is only 36” long or so, so I won’t be able to use it to rip the 10’ long boards. Any suggestions on getting a near perfectly straight glue-ready edge on 10 ft long 2x boards? I don’t have a jointer or router, but am willing to pick up a router for the project if it’ll help. I’ve attached a pic of my current table saw jig. Thanks!


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## Fishbucket (Aug 18, 2010)

I would have a long in feed and out feed table/ rollers. Then set up a long strait sacrificial fence and use it to joint the boards on the saw. 









How to use Your Table Saw as a Jointer - Woodworker's Journal


Even if you own a jointer, you'll want to master this technique.




www.woodworkersjournal.com


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

hunterswerdloff said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I will be building a 10 ft long dining table in the next few weeks. I’d like to trim off the round edges of the 2x6s I’ll be using for the table top so they all sit flush to each other for the glue-up. For shorter table tops, I’ve used a jig that I build for my table saw that allows me to rip off the edges and get a perfect cut even if the edge of the board has wobbles or is warped. However, the jig is only 36” long or so, so I won’t be able to use it to rip the 10’ long boards. Any suggestions on getting a near perfectly straight glue-ready edge on 10 ft long 2x boards? I don’t have a jointer or router, but am willing to pick up a router for the project if it’ll help. I’ve attached a pic of my current table saw jig. Thanks!
> View attachment 423971


Make up a 10' plus by about 10" piece of 1/4 - 3/8 "material. Attach a narrow strip to the top set further in from the edge that the distance of your circular saw base plate to the blade. Make sure you attach it dead on straight. Then using the strip as a fence, cut the base material with your circular saw. The circular saw will now cut straight, wherever you put the edge of the sled. Should look something like this.


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## JIMMIEM (Oct 12, 2014)

A good lumber supplier will have 10 foot long plywood which you can use for your guide for any of the 3 mentioned options i.e table saw, router, or circular saw. If you have a helper or want to set up infeed/outfeed tables use the table saw. If you have a good circular saw this will be a quick process. If you want to invest in a router this would be a doable option.....but a little more time as it's not a good idea to hog off too much wood in a single pass of the router and you may need a couple of different router bit styles.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I have a "left over" 10 ft sliding door rail that makes a good straight edge for ripping. The "U" shape allows a Irwin squeeze clamp to slide right in at any point for clamping to your material.








National Hardware Galvanized Plain Box Rail 5116BC 10 BOX R - The Home Depot


National Hardware provides the Track, Hangers and Sliding Door Hardware components needed to create your own barn and commercial sliding door system. Our advanced designs are made of galvanized steel in round or box rail and are made for easier mounting and smoother operation. Used primarily for...



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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

two tricks I use:

#1 - make a long fence - see below: 8' aluminum angle clamped to the fence. works wonders
check any warping - put the concave side to the fence & straighten the convex side first.
#2 - take light passes - finish with ~ half a kerf width. full kerf cuts require more feed-force and that can make things wobble & go bonky. yes, takes more time....


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

TomCT2 said:


> #1 - make a long fence - see below: 8' aluminum angle clamped to the fence. works wonders
> check any warping - put the concave side to the fence & straighten the convex side first.


Thanks for that Tom, I've been wondering what the best way to extend my TS fence is, what are the specs on yours? Width of sides and the thickness? Is that what you'd get again?


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

8' long - bought it at Home Depot. 1.25x1.25x0.125"
I use 1/4" thick shims to raise it up from the table. for 2xX you could use 1/2" shims.

I do have a semi-local metal supplier that probably has 20' lengths of any web thickness one can dream of.....
just not yet had the need to go that far overboard.

I buy rough sawn lumber usually in 10' lengths - and getting the long edges parallel is Step #2.
however my typical 'blank length' is on the order of 4-5 feet, hence the 8' extended fence works for me.


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