# Using brad nailer to assemble cabinet instead of clamps?



## 240sxguy (Sep 13, 2010)

Alright guys, I am planning my attack on a couple kitchen cabinets. I own no clamps at all, except the 90 degree ones. 

I do own a brad nailer. Is it acceptable to glue my joints up and then tack together with a brad nailer? This whole thing will be painted so fixing the little holes isn't a big deal. 

I built a stereo cabinet like this about 10 years ago and it's still strong as can be. Just not sure if its viewed as acceptable. 

Evan


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ever watch Norm Abrams?*

That's what he does for a lot of joints....but he's not necessarily a good example for fine cabinetry. But for kitchen cabinets I would! Besides you don't have any clamps, so that settles it. 
Norm uses clamps and brads on some stuff.  bill


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## 240sxguy (Sep 13, 2010)

That settles it, I was looking at buying some clamps last night but wondered if this wouldn't do the trick. Thanks!


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

If you can use clamps it's better I use both.


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## 240sxguy (Sep 13, 2010)

Alright, it wouldn't hurt to have some around too. Maybe a few pipe clamps are in order.


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## sketel (Sep 15, 2010)

Brads don't hold very well at all. If you bump the cabinet while it is drying it could mess everything up, so be extra careful and go light on the spacing. 

If you have a stapler, that would be 100 times better. If you are using 3/4 plywood, you could always use screws, just be sure to predrill. Tapered bits work best.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A quick answer would be yes, just a brad nailer and glue will work. It's not a great answer, as considerations like correct length, material being joined, any dadoes or rabbets, or just butt joints?

If it's painted, I would tack it with the brad nailer, and then countersink some screws.












 









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## 240sxguy (Sep 13, 2010)

I planned on using rabbets & dadoes. Screwing together also seems like a reasonable idea. This will be 3/4" AC plywood construction throughout.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

240sxguy said:


> I planned on using rabbets & dadoes. Screwing together also seems like a reasonable idea. This will be 3/4" AC plywood construction throughout.


Which A/C plywood?












 









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## 240sxguy (Sep 13, 2010)

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, not sure. 

Whats the difference? Or what should I be looking for? I wanna say its a fir plywood.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

240sxguy said:


> At the risk of sounding like an idiot, not sure.
> 
> Whats the difference? Or what should I be looking for? I wanna say its a fir plywood.


If it's A/C Fir, that's an exterior grade of plywood with a very defined grain that will be very difficult to lose when you paint. You may get it all colored, but the grain pronunciation will likely be visible. IOW, highs and lows.

If you haven't bought it yet, you may compare prices to a tight grained interior plywood, like Maple, Birch, or Poplar. They are pretty smooth to start and are fairly easy to paint.












 









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## 240sxguy (Sep 13, 2010)

Indeed I have not bought it yet. Maybe Ill drop by the place that I plan on purchasing it from on Thursday and get a look for myself. There was a dramatic difference between birch and fir price wise if memory serves. I wanna say 40sht vs 70? 

Thanks!

Evan


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

240sxguy said:


> Alright guys, I am planning my attack on a couple kitchen cabinets. I own no clamps at all, except the 90 degree ones.
> 
> I do own a brad nailer. Is it acceptable to glue my joints up and then tack together with a brad nailer? This whole thing will be painted so fixing the little holes isn't a big deal.
> 
> ...


Evan this may sound like a waist of material but being you have limited tools and your alone this is a good way to insure a square and strong cabinet and do them extremely fast. For base Cabinets cut two sides 24" x 33 3/4" if your doing frameless or 23 1/4 "x 33 3/4" if your going to have aface frame. Now cut two cleats same depth as sides by the height of desired kick or furniture base. Cut bottom plate same depth as sides by desired finished width minus 1 1/2 and cut top same depth as sides by desired actual finished width. Cut back to fit inside sandwiched between sides top and bottom. Nail cleats to inside bottom of sides .nail bottom down to top of cleats and through sides into edge of bottom.put top on top of sides and nail down bringing you to 34 1/2 standard kitchen height.insert back flush to back edges and nail it all the way around .the whole cab is 3/4 material. If your doing frameless edge front edge and put door panel on side to finish it off. If your doing framed glue and nail 3/4 poplar or pine to front to finish side miter front frame side or over hang 3/4 and put other frame on side and maybe a little molding around inside of frame to dress it up. I'm sure I will here it from the guys on this but it is quick and easy nail away glue srew


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## 240sxguy (Sep 13, 2010)

Hey, that's a neat idea. Thanks for the help!


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