# New Jointer questions



## Turbo v6 Camaro (Dec 23, 2010)

Hello 

i just got the porter-cable jointer from Lowes thats $250 

I did this stuff in high school but i forgot stom stuff I think 

how do you feed it? I remember passing my hands over the blade after a point, but vieods i find do not show them doing this

What my issue is:

I can still see light when I put the 2 pieces up together and hold it to a light, now i have to move around the angle i'm looking to see the light, if i squeeze the pieces a little it goes away is this okay or should it be perfect out off the blades? 

on this jointer I notice i have to keep the pressure on the feed side or the joint only get further apart

I have checked the alignment of everything, The blade are even wit hthe out feed table

and i noticed the in-feed table has a slight uphill from the blades moving to the right. shouldn't these be perfectly flat? ( i put a long straight edge on the out feed over the blade onto the in feed, the gapp at the blade is more then gap on the far side of the infeed table. Does this need corrected?

It seems when i adjust the cut height only the infeed near the blade moves, the back does move just not as much 

Can i adjust this table with shims or do i need to return to lowes and try another one ? 

I would rather just adjust it and use it then have the hasell of return and setting up again 

I'm practicing on a 2x4 for the moment, and side to side is square the square is tight once both sides or all 4 are planed/jointed 

just seems the joint is not perfect for jointing, seems fin for other uses like flatting it 

Andrew


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Well, the feeding part; is experience. Run it through and study the cut.
Should be very smooth and flat, check it with a dial indicator or straightedge.

Yes, jointers can be shimmed, if necessary.

Once the wood gets past the head, pressure is applied on the outfeed table. But not too much.

Jointer is like a lathe, certain pressures applied at different times will vary. Every machine is a different beast, that can be controlled.:thumbsup:


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## thintz (Apr 21, 2010)

I would suggest getting a little time on the jointer to get a better feel for it before you change anything on it. The jointer is very technique-sensitive despite how simple it is mechanically. Get your downward pressure a little wrong and you can influence the jointer in a big way. We see way more technique issues than problems with the jointer itself.
I have a few stories on using the jointer with photos and video that might be of some help initially. See the link below.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/index.html


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## Turbo v6 Camaro (Dec 23, 2010)

thanks for the link reading now

I practiced last night, I found if i move pressure to the out feed I get a bow in the board 

so eather something is out of adjustment or i'm doing it wrong with the pressure on that side


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## Turbo v6 Camaro (Dec 23, 2010)

after reading here: http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntrprobfxs.html 

it would seem my infeed table is the issue 

If i lay a long straight edged across the table the infeed table has a downward slope into the knives, by the end of the table it is nearly even with the out feed table 

so eather the out-feed table is slanted down or the in-feed is. 

so how do i check this. 

i'm not arguing my technique might be wrong, but it will be easier for me to adjust knowing the machine is right as it can be

I and geting more cuting in the center of the board then the edges, 

i'm using about 2-3 feet peace for this practice if that matters. 

the edges are clean and 90* to each other, a straight edge does not so a defect, but if i put the 2 edges up to each other like i'm going to glue, I can see some light


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

Turbo v6 Camaro said:


> Hello
> 
> i just got the porter-cable jointer from Lowes thats $250
> 
> ...


 You didn't say if it is the bench. First off this is me talking. I wouldn't have a jointer that didn't have a adjustment on the out feed table and the end feed. You could have got a ridgid 6" jointer which has both table's that move. i have that one and it will edge 2 board's that when you put them togother their is no daylite showing. The problum with only 1 bed that moves you have to adjust sometime's and that is a real pain to get it right.After blade exchange now the work begins . They have to be about perfect. Now with the out feed table that moves just adjust that and you are done. My advise is to take it back and not mess around. My ridgid out of the box was right on. the only thing that had to be set was the fence for the 45 degrees and 90 degrees.It has a good dust colection port on it also. And i belive a lifetime warrenty. I guess do what ever you want. my 2 cents


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## Turbo v6 Camaro (Dec 23, 2010)

del schisler said:


> You didn't say if it is the bench. First off this is me talking. I wouldn't have a jointer that didn't have a adjustment on the out feed table and the end feed. You could have got a ridgid 6" jointer which has both table's that move. i have that one and it will edge 2 board's that when you put them togother their is no daylite showing. The problum with only 1 bed that moves you have to adjust sometime's and that is a real pain to get it right.After blade exchange now the work begins . They have to be about perfect. Now with the out feed table that moves just adjust that and you are done. My advise is to take it back and not mess around. My ridgid out of the box was right on. the only thing that had to be set was the fence for the 45 degrees and 90 degrees.It has a good dust colection port on it also. And i belive a lifetime warrenty. I guess do what ever you want. my 2 cents


this is a bench top jointer. I have a small 2 car garage and have my Drag car in over half of it. I don't have a lot of room and need to be able to move things around easly to switch hobbies 

at 213# of the ridg that could prove difficult unless it has wheels? 

I would really perfer not to spend any more money


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Turbo v6 Camaro said:


> after reading here: http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntrprobfxs.html
> 
> it would seem my infeed table is the issue
> 
> ...


A simple check using a 4 ft aluminum level will show any slope in the tables. By dropping the infeed and checking for a parallel gap under the level any slope will be apparent. It's agood time to check the outfeed height if it's adjustable to the top dead center of the cutter knife rotation as well.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Turbo v6 Camaro said:


> I and geting more cuting in the center of the board then the edges,


Both tables have to be co-planer. Not that they are level to eachother (on the same plane) but in whatever position they are level..in parallel plane to each other. IOW, if the jointer is adjusted to take off 1/8", the infeed table is 1/8" lower than the outfeed, but level in parallel. It ain't easy to describe. 

If you are taking off more in the middle of the board, you might be just exerting too much pressure near the cutterhead in that area.












 







.


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## Turbo v6 Camaro (Dec 23, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> A simple check using a 4 ft aluminum level will show any slope in the tables. By dropping the infeed and checking for a parallel gap under the level any slope will be apparent. It's agood time to check the outfeed height if it's adjustable to the top dead center of the cutter knife rotation as well.


when i put the straight edge on the gap nearest the blades on the infeed is more then a gap at the very end of the table 



I'll check my prssue to make sure i'm not putting to much down 

also if ia shut the tool down in the cut the board is the slightest bit off the infeed table and this get worse as mor board feed onto the out feed. is it possible the out feed table is the that is miss setup ?


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## Turbo v6 Camaro (Dec 23, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Both tables have to be co-planer. Not that they are level to eachother (on the same plane) but in whatever position they are level..in parallel plane to each other. IOW, if the jointer is adjusted to take off 1/8", the infeed table is 1/8" lower than the outfeed, but level in parallel. It ain't easy to describe.
> 
> If you are taking off more in the middle of the board, you might be just exerting too much pressure near the cutterhead in that area.
> 
> ...


so if out table has a 2* slope into the blabes it fine so long as the infeed table has this same slope? 

they are suppose to parrales like if they where on top of each other right?


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

Turbo v6 Camaro said:


> when i put the straight edge on the gap nearest the blades on the infeed is more then a gap at the very end of the table
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Take it back you are messing around to much. It should be good out of the box. That one doesn't have a out feed adjustment like a handle on it to lower or raise. Only the infeed. The out feed table should be good out of the box. and work. If not take it back. good luck


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