# Any chainsaw Medics?



## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

I'm hoping with all the mill owners around here that one of yall might be able to help me get a chainsaw running. My MIL gave me a Homelite chainsaw (model# UT10901B). It's a 33cc saw. I believe it was made in 2005 and has prob been sitting in her basement since that time and still looks new. I can't get this thing to start though. I drained all the old gas and replaced with new mixed gas, cleaned the air filter, put a new spark plug in it, and have pulled and pulled and can't get it to crank.

I did check to make sure it was firing and it is firing good. I did however tighten up the idle screw accidentally b/c it runs through the plastic handle and I thought it was just a loose screw that needed tightening. But either way, it wouldn't crank before I did that. I tried pouring a little bit of gas into the plug hole and still nothing. Anyone have any ideas? I don't wanna take it anywhere to be fixed b/c well, it's a homelite and Id rather put money into a better saw if I can't get it running.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

My secret to starting small gasoline engines that have been sitting for some time is direct gasoline injection into the cylinder. I take a small syringe, put some gasoline in it, remove the spark plug and inject the gasoline into the cylinder. Usually gets them started in there is not a a spark problem.

Be sure not to get too carried away with the amount of fuel you squirt in. I would say try about 1cc.

Sitting is not good for these engines. If it runs for a short time and then quits check the fuel system. You can get bad fuel lines.

G


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## dirtclod (May 7, 2008)

My first recommendation is to take it to a small engine repair and have them diagnose it. (I didn't know any chainsaw had the Homelite brand on it in 2005.) But you could end up with many years of service for little investment. 

Usually 3 years is not enough to deteriorate a gas line. But I've seen it happen. The one on our mill needs replacing and it's only 2-1/2 years old. Some of the factories use the cheapest gas line they can buy. But normally it's the gas that breaks down and gums up the carb and it requires an acid bath to clean it. 

You've allready narrowed it down to a fuel delivery problem. Something in the carb may be seized. You could try using starter fluid. I've seen small engine repair pros resort to it on stubborn units that have been sitting like yours. It is frowned apon but it frequently works. What have you got to lose? I've done the same thing many times and never regretted it. Take the cover and the air filter off of it and have someone squirt a little in the intake while someone else pulls the rope. Running a small batch of carb cleaner and gas mix through it afterward wouldn't hurt.


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## Oscar (Jun 7, 2008)

I've worked and played with Chainsaws (Internal Combustion Engines) for years and I have come to accept the fact, it's better to have a "Professional" look at it! However, if your bound and determined (like I too frequently am) to figure it out on the cheap, I would start at the spark. Just because there is spark doesn't neccisarily mean it's enough and the only true way to determine that is with a amp meter and specs for the saw. I aleays prime the saw with the primer button , if there is one, choke it and pul a half a dozen times. Then I pull the plug and check to see if it's wet, and how wet. If you appear to have good spark with the appropriate spark gap and the plug is visually wet then it's likely being flooded by debris under the primary needle valve. If the plug isn't wet than it could be a clogged fuel filter/line and/or debris not allowing the primary valve to open. If it appears there may be too much gas it will likely need a Carb Kit. The kits are generally cheap and the carbs are easy to rebuild, you just need to make sure everything is cleaned meticulously and is spotless when re-assembled. These small carbs are hyper sensitive to dirt and debris. Many times I have taken a carb apart to find the inlet screen to be full of sawdust, meaning a failure of the filter or that the filter has come off the inlet line (happens frequently). Hope i've been of some assistance. 





I,ve attached a picture of some of my mechanical endeavors/ abilities. I hope no-one minds. It's my other real passion!


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## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

I've rebuilt a few motors... (with success :laughing.

Neighbor gave me his Homlite "weed-wacker". I never did get it running. 
Probably just a testament to my skills, but... good luck.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Oscar, I cannot get a really good look at the rear end of that El Camino, but it sure looks like a 1967. I had a '67 for many years. Still think that is a great looking vehicle. Also more of a workhorse than people gave it credit for. I have pumped up the shocks and carried a ton (literally) of fertilizer in it. I had a customer who carried horse feed in his.

George


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## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

Thanks for all the advice guys.

George- I did try squirting some gas into the plug hole but still no luck.
Dirtclod- starting fluid was gonna be my next step if nothing else would work.
oscarratm- i don't know how to measure the spark but it does have a really good one and it's getting gas to the plug. I was thinking maybe a carb kit as well.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

FF,
I am surprised that it's giving you so much trouble being only three years old. That little engine needs spark, gas, and compression to run. Sounds like you are getting spark. Should be a bright blue color. You did say you had a new plug. The fact that you shot a little gas in the plug hole and it didn't fire kinda mystifies me. Normally they will pop for a second or two when you do that. I would stick to the simple things. Try disconnecting the kill switch wire just for the heck of it. If for some reason the flywheel key sheered and the flywheel were to shift, ignition timing would be way off. The only other thing I can think of from my vintage bike days is if you have a crankshaft seal leaking, it will cause a starting issue. I doubt that is it. The carbs on the small engines like this rely on a rubber diaphram to pull the fuel from the tank, through the carb and into the engine. I have had these go bad in some of my lawn equipment, but usually they are eight or nine years old at that point. Double check the basics, if that doesn't do it, take it to a local shop. Let us know what happens.
Mike Hawkins:blink:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

try squirting gas in again. Maybe a little more.

G


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## moneymgmt (May 7, 2008)

I recently got an older edger from a friend because he couldn't get it running. I tried everything you've gone over here and then stupid thing was driving me to insanity. When I pulled the plug to check for spark it did, but when i put it back in it never sounded like it was firing. I was just about to hard wire the on/off switch when it came to me.... the switch had been tampered with and somebody put it back on backwards. I'm pulling my shoulder out all because the wiring said "on" but was really off. After I figured that out it nearly shot to the moon with all the starter fluid and gas it had built up in the cylinder! Just thought it sounded similar to what you've got here... good luck!


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## Oscar (Jun 7, 2008)

George:
It's a 1969 SS, but it's real tough to tell the difference between the 67-69 when all or most of the marker lights etc.. are removed. I to like the EL Camino and in many years gone by can recall blowing the doors off of other "Muscle Cars" while coming back from the Lumber Yard:laughing::laughing:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Oscar, what engine does that SS have? My '67 had the 327. I also had a boat at the same time that also had the Chevy 327, but it had a 4 barrel while the El Camino had a 2 barrel.


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Hi, I saw this site and thought of a Stihl 031AV I have...the trouble I have is... it will run great for about 1 and 1/2 minutes or more then quits. I have been able to adj. the carb after it is warmed...with choak off and it idels fine. It`s acting as if...when it reaches normal running temp...it chuts down! Can`t figgure it out...maybe compresion falls off. Rick


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hi firefighter

A small saw that sits for more than a year, regardless of how old it is, will tend to gum up in the carburettor. The old gas goes stale, and breaks down. It loses its ability to fire up, and the gas turns to gummy residue in the carb. Also, gas that sits for some time may deposit granules of the additives.

I would suggest the following:
1 Empty the gas tank completely.
2 Remove the carb, disassemble it, and clean it thoroughly. 
Look for gum or particles and remove any found.
3 Replace any deteriorated rubber parts, such as the diaphragm if required.
4 Pull the fuel feed line partially out of the gas tank, and check the inlet filter, or sponge, for deterioration. Replace if it has gone gummy.
5 Inspect the fuel line for deterioration and replace it if it has gone gummy or has collapsed. Blow through the line to ensure it is clear.
6 Reassemble the saw.
7 Mix up a fresh batch of gas and refill the tank.
8 Make sure you have a strong spark and a clean unworn spark plug.
9 Pull the saw through and make sure it has good compression.
10 Try to start it again.

If it still won't run I have run out of suggestions.

Many manufacturers have web sites where you can download manuals. Try to google "Homelite" and see if they do.

Good luck.

Gerry


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> Hi firefighter
> 
> A small saw that sits for more than a year, regardless of how old it is, will tend to gum up in the carburettor. The old gas goes stale, and breaks down. It loses its ability to fire up, and the gas turns to gummy residue in the carb. Also, gas that sits for some time may deposit granules of the additives.
> 
> ...


Every thing he said plus one,, 

Make sure the switch is off, while the carb is off,
and the sparkplug out, pull the starter handle
quickly and as many as 25 or thirty times to clear
any fuel from the crank case.
Pour a small amount of oil in the sparkplug hole
and hold the saw so the oil will run down the cylinder 
and pull the starter slowly.

Pouring raw fuel in the plug hole to try to start it
can wash the oil off the rings causing a lose of
compression. Always use mixed fuel if you try
to prime the saw.

You might also look at the exhaust opening, it
can soot up and block the exhaust. All saws
have a screen, spark arrester over the opening.

*For safety I would take the bar and chain off
while working on the saw!
*


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## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

Thanks Gerry, I'm gonna give your ideas a shot tomorrow and look at the switch and see if it has been messed with. Can you get carb kits at a local ace hardware or big box store?


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

BHOFM
You have made some good additions. Definitely safer with the bar and chain removed.

Firefighter
If the big box stores don't have the kits, and probably do not, try the local power saw or small engine shops. They will usually carry kits for these things, or can get you one in.

Gerry

Gerry


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## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

ok so last night i got the saw to crank. what i ended up doing was, taking the carb off and completely taking it apart. i didn't have any carb cleaner handy so i just wiped everything off and blew it out good. i also took the flywheel off and took some steel wool to the contacts. put fresh gas in it and it fired right up. it will run wide open for a few seconds but if i let off on the throttle it will die. didn't mess with it very much after it started b/c it was getting late. do you think it just needs some adjusting on the carb or is it just been sitting for a while and needs to run wide open for a while? any recommendations are appreciated.


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## dirtclod (May 7, 2008)

2-cycle engines have two adjustment screws on their carbs. One is for idle mix and the other for gas mix at high rpms. (Caution - if you lean out the high speed mix too much it will rapidly lead to piston/cylinder failure.) The problem's in the low speed mix. It could be blocked or out of adjustment. Getting these settings right takes experience. The low speed is easy but the high speed is tricky.


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## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

the only adj screw that i have messed with is i believe the idle adj. will that mess with the gas mix?


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## dirtclod (May 7, 2008)

I'm at the limit of my knowledge on this. I have rarely seen a 3rd adjustment exclusively for the throttle idle adjustment. It's easy to distinguish this because you can see it moving the throttle or its linkage. Most likely you are looking at the low speed mix adjustment. Some designs have "L" and "H" stamped on the carb or sometimes on the chainsaw case next to the adjustments to designate the low and high speed adjustments.


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## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

i went and investigated a little further. the screw that i adjusted does control the throttle. when the screw is screwed in, it actually moves the throttle on the carb. there is 2 screws that are on the side of the carb that are recessed. i saw on the internet that the left one is the low adj and the right is high adj. you actually need a special tool just to adjust these b/c the screw heads are round with 1 flat spot on them and there's around 1/16th on an inch of room around the screw for the tool. im guessing that i shouldn't mess with these.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/homelite/homelite_gas_chainsaw_product_list.html

This site has lots of owners manuals. I found one for my Jonsered. They are free pdf files. Registration with the site is required.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

firefighteremt153 said:


> the only adj screw that i have messed with is i believe the idle adj. will that mess with the gas mix?


You have it running. That's the first big step. :thumbsup::thumbsup::yes:
The two recessed screws are your low and high mixture adjusting screws. If they haven't been touched they should be okay. You can adjust the throttle idle stop out to give it more gas at idle. If the saw still won't idle down it is possible that there is still gum or resdue in the idle jet. Running the saw may clear it, or may not. Worth a try anyway.
You didn't mention wether or not you pulled the choke on to start it. most saws need the choke partially or fully on until they are well warmed up. My little Poulan needs a bit of choke all the time to idle. I think the idle screw needs adjusting, but it is like yours. Hidden and special tool that I don't have.

Gerry


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## Oscar (Jun 7, 2008)

The primary reason I will take my saws to a professional is because the manufactures started putting in the adj screws that req specialized tools about 5-10 years ago and to telll you the truth the reason I made the decision was I sorely messed up the screws on a nice saw several years ago and it cost me dearly to have the saw repaired. It would have cost only $20-25 to have the saw adj instead it cost over $65 because theyhad to remove the carb to extract the srcews and the screw where $10 + themselves. I'd suggest you have the saw looked at and save yourself possible problems!


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## dirtclod (May 7, 2008)

I'm with Gerry on this one - sounds like the low speed is still gummed up. They boil carbs in acid at small engine repair shops to clean everything. I would be tempted to try to run it for a while on a small batch of gas mix and carb cleaner. (The kind made to be mixed with gas.) And also use some spray-on carb cleaner down the throat. I may not get into the valve if it's too plugged. But it's worth a try. From there it has to go to the shop.


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## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

I fiddled with the saw some more last night but still couldn't get it running any better. So what I did was take the carb off ande disassemble it completely and soak it over night in carb cleaner. later on I'm going to put it all back together and see if that made a difference.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

firefighteremt153 said:


> I fiddled with the saw some more last night but still couldn't get it running any better. So what I did was take the carb off ande disassemble it completely and soak it over night in carb cleaner. later on I'm going to put it all back together and see if that made a difference.


Word of caution Firefighter: Most carb cleaners are very caustic, and will disolve any rubber and probably plastic parts. Make sure you have removed the diaphragm and any other non-metallic parts before you soak the carb.

Gerry


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