# Adjustable Mandrel vs. Regular Mandrel



## NNJG_Matt (Dec 14, 2011)

So what are the pros and cons and over all differences between a adjustable mandrel and a regular mandrel?


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

The difference is that the adjustable or pro mandrel can be made whatever size you need it to be. A regular mandrel requires spacers to make it the length you need it to be. I'm a complete noob and have only used the pro mandrel but I would think the regular one would also be more likely to flex while turning small items that dont require the full length, maybe not though. Also if the mandrel ever gets bent, I can replace the shaft at less than have the cost of a new mandrel. The other type you would need to buy an entire new mandrel.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Bassblaster's pretty much got it on that one...no need for spacer bushings and less flex.


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## JTTHECLOCKMAN (Dec 31, 2011)

I use an adjustable mandrel because I rarely like to do more than one blank at a time to elliminate flex and OOR blanks. Also I forgo the mandrel and just turn between centers using the appropriate bushings designed to allow this. Works a whole lot better.


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## Whaler (Mar 9, 2011)

I'm with John on this, once you start turning between centers you will never use a mandrel again.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

JTTHECLOCKMAN said:


> ..... Also I forgo the mandrel and just *turn between centers* using the *appropriate bushings* designed to allow this.


How do you use bushings when turning between centers? Maybe a photo would help.
Thanks


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

As a noob who has only been turning pens, I'm interested in this method as well.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

You could also use a mandrel saver from PSI. The mandrel shaft slides inside for adjustment & tightened down by the tailstock. Totally adjustable. No more nut to tighten down. For turning between centers I would use bushings made for it. Penturners Products sells these & he has a demo on his site. The bushings are a little more than stock bushings but they last longer & machined with top quality. John is a great guy & ships fast. You can also use the stock bushings between centers but you could still end up with a blank off center as some holes are off from factory. I used to do this till I had a blank that was off center. I had a set of John's bushings that I had not tried yet & mounted the bank on them & they trued up the blank. Now I only use the bushings made for turning between centers. They do up the anti on quality.

http://woodturning.pennstateind.com/search/index?query=mandrel+saver

http://www.penturnersproducts.com/


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## Whaler (Mar 9, 2011)

I see James posted a picture while I was out in the shop taking some.
I too use the bushings from www.penturnersproducts.com, I have used the factory bushings in a pinch but John's are the best.
Here are the pictures that I took
A set of john's bushings.
60* live and dead centers.
A blank mounted.


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## JTTHECLOCKMAN (Dec 31, 2011)

There you go. I would have taken about the same photos because I too use Johnny's products and I will say this he stands behind his work 100% You do not have to worry about precion using his product because they are well made. That is the way to turn between centers. Thanks guys for posting.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

I browsed the Pen Turners site cited, but I could not find the specific bushings mentioned. This is what I was looking for in my earlier thread about turning seam rippers.
Are those bushing just the standard one typically used on a mandrel?
If so, I was told that the bushings only ride up against the face (end) of the trimmed blank once the tube had been inserted. What keeps the blank and the bushings lined up? Normally it would be the mandrel running down the center. Or do thes bushings have a tenon that run doun inside the tubing? If I'm missing something that is obvious, then I apologize.
Thanks


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

All the bushings are different. Some just ride against the face and some actually fit into the tube. It all depends on the tube diameter and the kit itself. Thats what I told you when I responded in your thread. I didnt say they only ride against the face.

These bushings for turning between centers I know nothing about yet but they are definately not the same as the ones that fit on a mandrel.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

djg said:


> I browsed the Pen Turners site cited, but I could not find the specific bushings mentioned. This is what I was looking for in my earlier thread about turning seam rippers.
> Are those bushing just the standard one typically used on a mandrel?
> If so, I was told that the bushings only ride up against the face (end) of the trimmed blank once the tube had been inserted. What keeps the blank and the bushings lined up? Normally it would be the mandrel running down the center. Or do thes bushings have a tenon that run doun inside the tubing? If I'm missing something that is obvious, then I apologize.
> Thanks


The bushings from Penturners are different. They are solid with a tenon that fits the pentube. The outside has a 60º countersink. You will need a 60º live center & dead center. He sells these also. They are machined to much tighter tolerances then the stock bushings for a mandrel. He probably does not have them for a seam ripper. He might be able to do a custom set but you need to e-mail him to find out. 

When mounted on the lathe the combination runs very true & you can notice the difference. Dick shows a picture of his bushings. If you have a live center & a dead center you can try turning between centers with the bushings meant for a mandrel. There is still a chance the turning could be off center. But that's also a complaint from many about a mandrel. Watch the turn between centers video he has on his web site to see how they are different.


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## JTTHECLOCKMAN (Dec 31, 2011)

The bushings that are used to turn between centers as you can see in the photo have a longer stub end that goes into the tube. The other end has a cone shape hole to fit a 60 degree center. The blank automatically becomes centered when all parts are mated properly. Each kit has its own size bushings and yes they are abit more expensive because they are not mass produced. Again one thing I mentioned in the other post the tube and the blank ends must be flush and true or else nothing you use will help OOR problems.

OOPs I see James had answered as I was typing. But I agree with what he said.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

JTTHECLOCKMAN said:


> The bushings that are used to turn between centers as you can see in the photo have a longer stub end that goes into the tube. The other end has a cone shape hole to fit a 60 degree center. The blank automatically becomes centered when all parts are mated properly. Each kit has its own size bushings and yes they are abit more expensive because they are not mass produced. Again one thing I mentioned in the other post the tube and the blank ends must be flush and true or else nothing you use will help OOR problems.
> 
> OOPs I see James had answered as I was typing. But I agree with what he said.


I sometimes have the same problem. I'm a slow two finger typer & I don't like to abreviate everything like the younger texting crowd.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

BassBlaster said:


> All the bushings are different. Some just ride against the face and some actually fit into the tube. It all depends on the tube diameter and the kit itself. Thats what I told you when I responded in your thread. I didnt say they only ride against the face.
> 
> These bushings for turning between centers I know nothing about yet but they are definately not the same as the ones that fit on a mandrel.


 I guess I misunderstood earlier, thanks for clarifying it again.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

djg said:


> I guess I misunderstood earlier, thanks for clarifying it again.


About the only bushings for a mandrel that fit flush to the blank are the 7mm slimline types. Looks just like a spacer. For the larger kits the bushings are two step as they have a center hole for the mandrel & they also have a tenon that fits inside the larger pen tubes.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

BassBlaster said:


> The other type you would need to buy an entire new mandrel.


 The shaft screws into a Morse taper. You can take it out and get a new one for it.


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