# PVA glue squeezeout make a mess



## stevekir (Sep 12, 2019)

PVA (Polyvinylacetate (I think), is the same as Titebond (I think).


I make small boxes with mitred joints on the sides ends and also but joints for the top and bottom. Inevitably there is squeezeout which invades the surrounding wood pieces. It can't be left of course. I use a drinking straw to swallow up most of the surplus then wipe with a wet paper tissue but traces of the glue inevitably remain and alter the appearance of wood stains applied later, or even varnish or French polish.


This must be a common problem. How to solve please?


Thanks.


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Steve - depending on how much woodworking that you do that 
ends up being stained, there is one product that "helps" to identify
where any residual glue may be hiding that could ruin your project.
it is a fluorescent glue that glows under a blacklight.
I have never used it as I do not do a lot of stained projects.
I know of a guy on another forum that swears by it as it helps him
turn out a better project and shortens the cleanup time.
the last I checked, it was only available in one gallon containers.
even tho the small hobby bottle is shown on their website, it is not available.
you can decant it into smaller bottles and keep them in the fridge to extend shelf life.
this is your call - as to if it is worth the investment or not.








*TITEBOND II FLUORESCENT WOOD GLUE*

Titebond II Fluorescent can help any woodworker achieve professional-looking results. 
It provides a strong initial tack and fast speed of set to reduce clamp time. 
It also develops bonds stronger than wood, offers excellent sandability and is unaffected 
by finishes. Titebond II Fluorescent contains a dye that, when viewed under a blacklight,
enables woodworkers to inspect the glue line and assist in the cleanup process. 
It is ideal for most porous materials, is easy to use and cleans up with water.

disclaimer: I have no personal gain in this product.

.

.


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

I use a dedicated sharp chisel to shovel under the beads of glue that squeeze out after clamping. The key is to wait until the beads of glue skin over and try not to add to the dilemma by smearing it. It usually skins over in about 20 minutes. any glue that smears into the wood must be sanded away before you apply finish or its permanent. In some cases you can pre finish the wood prior to glue up when practical, but you must be careful not to get finish on the joints you plan to glue.


----------



## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Titebond products are available in different sizes. I used the 16 oz. bottles for gluing cork rings for fishing rod grips. Compress and wipe with a wet paper towel and then turn on the lathe. For WWing, use lots of wet rags. I didn't do this and have to sand it out of stair treads. http://http://www.titebond.com/


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Think most of your problem is using the wet rag to clean off the glue. For me, thats always just spread it around, and the extra water dilutes the glue and forces it deeper into the wood. I just let the glue dry, then trim off the excess using a chisel. Never have a problem with stains or finishes that way


----------



## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

I use masking tape along the edges of corner joints during glue up and clamping.


----------



## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

I use a wet rag and don't have an issue if follow these rules:


1. Remove the bulk of the glue mechanically I usually use a putty knife.
2. Use a rag, not a paper towel

3. Rinse rag frequently
4. Repeat 2-3 times
5. Finish with a dry rag.

The problem with letting the glue dry is glue that has dried in the pores. Ultimately using the right amount of glue is the key.


----------



## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I have read many posts where people say to wait the perfect amount of time, then carefully scrape away the soft-dried glue squeeze-out. Like magic, it comes off clean, and leaves nothing on or in the wood! I keep trying it, but have not had good luck with it:

* Most often, I forget, and the glue is dried hard. 
* Sometimes I remember, but it is difficult to get the timing right. So far, the glue feels right, but underneath the rubbery skin is wet glue. 

-> Does anyone have any hints about to get a perfectly peeling glue bead using the wait-and-scrape method??

(I have used wet paper towels and rags, but worry that it makes a bigger mess of dilute glue. If you use enough water, it may get into the joint and weaken it, or it can raise the grain in the wood around the joint.)

Related, but off topic: 

_Note to Self: Buy a Cheap Kitchen Timer for the Shop_

Every time I see one of these threads, I remind myself to buy a cheap kitchen timer to keep in the shop. All too often, I lose track of time while I am working, and the time is long since gone when I should have:

* Scraped the squeeze out glue beads at the perfect point of soft/hard easy removal. 
* Wiped off the finish or buffed the finish or whatever was needed for the finish.
* Gone inside when dinner is hot and fresh. :-(


----------



## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

use less glue

when gluing up boards i just scrape off any squeeze out when dry
wiping with wet rag just spreads the problem when finishing

on finer joints like your boxes... use less glue or no glue
nails or pins will hold it together


----------



## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

If the glue sets, it is almost impossible to remove from the grain, unless you do a lot of sanding. AMHIK.


----------



## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

In my boxes, I use blue painters tape. I install the tape when the box is still apart. It does take some time, but if done right you will not have glue stains.


----------



## stevekir (Sep 12, 2019)

*I will go with tape*



hawkeye10 said:


> In my boxes, I use blue painters tape. I install the tape when the box is still apart. It does take some time, but if done right you will not have glue stains.


Kerrys also recomended this so I will go along with the taped method. I will experiment by taping across the inside joint corner before cutting the mitres. With luck, the remaining tape will still cover the troublesome area accurately and keep the glue off the wood before peeling the tape off with its soft squeezeout. If not I will tape the inside (both) of the already mitred joint hard up to the internal corner in the hope that still soft squeezeout will come cleanly away when removing the tape. 

The problem of using a chisel is in getting access to the inside of a box.


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

I think ultimately... careful placement when gluing is key. Personally, I try to place the glue sparingly...to prevent squeeze out...or try to have the squeeze out in an area that can be scraped/sanded without effecting the outcome. On small detailed items, I often use nail files...they have worked well for me. As a final check before staining/finishing, the wood can be wetted with Denatured Alcohol or Mineral Spirits to make the glue still remaining stand out. I shutter when I watch YouTube/Tv shows...where they spooge glue out of a joint, knowing it causes this very problem.


----------



## stevekir (Sep 12, 2019)

*Squeezout problem solved!*



stevekir said:


> Kerrys also recomended this so I will go along with the taped method. I will experiment by taping across the inside joint corner before cutting the mitres. With luck, the remaining tape will still cover the troublesome area accurately and keep the glue off the wood before peeling the tape off with its soft squeezeout. If not I will tape the inside (both) of the already mitred joint hard up to the internal corner in the hope that still soft squeezeout will come cleanly away when removing the tape.
> 
> The problem of using a chisel is in getting access to the inside of a box.


I can report that I have tried the second method ("...tape the inside (both) of the already mitred joint hard up to the internal corner...") and it works perfectly. I waited for a few minutes for the squeezeout (which went on to the tape only of course) had stiffened slightly. No trace of glue went on to the wood. I also tried the first method with equal success (although more tape is needed). Squeezout problem solved!


----------



## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

I use a flat head screw driver with a rag on the tip. Just change the rag position after each corner is cleaned. Works great.


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

DrRobert said:


> I use a wet rag and don't have an issue if follow these rules:
> 
> 
> 1. Remove the bulk of the glue mechanically I usually use a putty knife.
> ...


Agree.....nothing fancy to it...


----------



## stevekir (Sep 12, 2019)

I am now doing what Rebelwork suggests.


----------



## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

immediate 'scraping off' plus liberal water wash plus dry-with-a-towel works best for me.
my scraper of choice is a sharp chisel...at a high angle . . . immediate scrape and immediate wash plus dry.
gets tricky gluing lots of joint length because 'time flies'

in addition to the glow-in-the-dark glue - after 'all is dry' a wipe down with denatured alcohol reveals spot/flaws/places you missed - on sanding & gluing....
very helpful, works best on darker woods - requires good light and careful examination on light woods.
I go through a fair amount of denatured alcohol - nothing unmakes my day more than finding a spot I missed after/during staining/finishing.

also of much usefulness - applying the glue with "something" other than the bottle nozzle, to more carefully control the amount and placement.
I use wooden skewers (cheap at the grocery store, snip off a used end=fresh dabber...) also popsicle sticks are great for cheap spreaders dabbers.

I use Scott shop towels - ie paper - but it is important to not just smear the glue around - multiple fresh rags, never soaked&rinsed&saturated&reused...
fresh towel, fresh water on every "pass" - when the ketchup bottle is empty, they make a good bench "water dispenser"

if you're cheap like me, rinse & hang them up to dry and reuse _after_ they are dry. if they're too stiff after drying, toss them.


----------



## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I wish I could be better at it. Despite years of practice and trying everything, I still have squeezout issues. I have tried wet rags, scraping, and tape:

* Wet rags: 
Can make matters worse by spreading watered-down glue over a wider surface. If it penetrates the joint, it may weaken it. It also raises the grain. This is what I do now anyway, and try to learn from my mistakes. After years, perhaps I am untrainable for this method.

* Scraping before fully cured: 
Scraping too soon may pop the skin and spread more glue around. Scraping before it is cured is hard to get the timing just right, and I added a magnetic kitchen timer to my shop to remind me. Furthermore, different glue-ups seem to need different times. It seems that there is no one timing that is "right." 

* Scraping (or sanding) after fully cured: 
Time consuming and likely to tear the wood or cause other issues, and leaves some behind anyway.

* Tape: 
I used the 3M blue painters tape on baltic birch scrap to try it out. I let it cure too much. The glue soaked through and glued the tape to the wood, making things worse. Would cellophane tape, Scotch magic tape, or another plastic tape work better?

* Getting the amount of glue right every time: 
Maybe in heaven. 

I use the Rockler silicone glue trays, brushes, and spreaders. I like them very much for wood glue. The glue just peels off if you have time to let it dry, otherwise you can wash it off. Sure, you can use disposable flux brushes or sticks or your finger (and I do on occasion), but I like how they leave the right "glue ridges." They just work for me:
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-piece-silicone-glue-application-kit
For drill holes and my spouse's small scroll saw projects:
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-silicone-mini-glue-brush-2-pack
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-silicone-micro-glue-brush-set

I thought they were exclusive to Rockler, but I also found this, available from Peachtree and Amazon:
https://www.ptreeusa.com/gluing_sili_products.html


----------



## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

OK, I'm thinking box joints. I'm thinking tape. I'm thinking reality.

Only on the inside of the box is the problem. Before assembly I'll put a strip of blue painter's tape covering the pins of the box joint and on into the inside of the project. I roll it with a wallpaper roller to insure that the tape is stuck. I'll clamp a straight edge across the inside exactly even with the depth of the joint. Using a single edge razor blade I'll score the tape deeply. Then I'll remove the tape from the pins. 

After the glue has significantly dried (30 minutes or so) I'll peel the remaining tape from the joint. 

The outside of the joint will require sanding but with a modern ROS that is a piece of cake.


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Y'all make glue squeeze out much harder than it has to be.


----------



## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

gmercer_48083 said:


> I think ultimately... careful placement when gluing is key. Personally, I try to place the glue sparingly...to prevent squeeze out...or try to have the squeeze out in an area that can be scraped/sanded without effecting the outcome. On small detailed items, I often use nail files...they have worked well for me. As a final check before staining/finishing, the wood can be wetted with Denatured Alcohol or Mineral Spirits to make the glue still remaining stand out. I shutter when I watch YouTube/Tv shows...where they spooge glue out of a joint, knowing it causes this very problem.


I agree. I watch some of these guys using this glue and its oozing out all over the place and I am thinking look what your doing to yourself. 
I remember a shop teacher after a chess board glue up chastising me for making a mess of it. When I see them doing that I remember my foolish mistake of way to much glue. 

I was glueing up box joints this past week and that is some messy work. I may go to what one of the main YouTube Box joint makers uses and that is construction adhesive. 

Tiebond has a new to me glue that isn't supposed to run and it is thicker. That may be a good try. Always something to go and try and do.


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

I don't do box joints: (or boxes).
but, I have done many other projects that excess glue would seep 
into the endgrain. ruining the stain application and final results.

if you do box joints, is it possible to do at least apply the first coat of stain
and/or clear coats on the wood first ?? then, do the cutting and glue up.
the clear would seal the wood and prevent the glue from wicking into the endgrain. 
after assembly, a quick wipe with damp cloth should be all that is necessary.
just thinking out loud here for another option to deal with the messy glue issues.

[unless you are planning to ship bowling balls in your box, the parts of the joints
that are sealed will not hold glue. but, the freshly cut parts will be bare wood and
"should" be enough to hold the box together - for ever.
again - depending on what the box is designed to be used for].

.


----------



## redeared (Feb 7, 2019)

Mark Jones Ozark said:


> I use a flat head screw driver with a rag on the tip. Just change the rag position after each corner is cleaned. Works great.



That is my method for corners


----------



## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

redeared said:


> That is my method for corners


I saw a guy use a drinking straw in the corners to get the glue out. I may try that one of these days. Glue can be your best friend and your worst enemy.


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If a little is good, more is not necessarily better, often the need felt for excess glue is because of poor fitting joints so the natural reaction is to fill the gap with glue.
That strip of masking tape is to catch the small amount that will inevitably squeeze out, not half of what you applied.


----------

