# Lathe



## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

Looking to get into getting a lathe machine seen bowls being made and really want to do this, been on CL and have seen many lathe machines "table top" around 2-300 what should I look for when purchasing one? Help


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## Lilty (Dec 20, 2006)

You will probably get a lot of info here but I would sugest joining a wood turning club in you area if possible.


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## 20/20 (Nov 7, 2013)

Be careful on CL buying a lathe especially if you're not that familiar with them. Not saying there aren't good deals but 90%+ are not worth what is being asked(at least in this area). I agree with Lilty, check out a club or if nothing else find a turner, most of us appreciate showing the art. I can recommend a smaller lathe that is capable of turning smaller bowls for a decent start up price, it's the 10 x 18 Harbor Freight model http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed-bench-top-wood-lathe-65345.html. I know a lot of folks will knock the HF line and that's understandable but I own this lathe and am VERY pleased at how well built it is. If interested do a search for discounts, mine cost less then $150.00 shipped to the front door. Keep in mind this is a small lathe with a higher low speed. If your wanting to spin large bowls then be prepared to spend big $$$$ for a large lathe with a low speed. Oh and there add is a miss print, it has the MT2 not 1.

If your set on buying used try to stay away from the cheaper reeves drive units, they can be a real head ache. I own one of those also that I have converted over to a 4 speed step pully.... MUCH BETTER! Also watch out for the cheaper craftsman style tube lathes(a lot on CL) unless your getting it for almost free I'd look elsewhere.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

There are a couple of turning clubs in the Boston area. The one I go to meets in Lexington 3rd Thursday of the month -- A.R.T. -- and there's one that meets in Abington -- MSSWT -- on the fourth Tuesday of the month.

Lots of friendly helpful folks both places. I'd say "look forward to seeing you Thursday", but I won't be at the ART meeting this week.


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

What's a good brand?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

bostonwindows said:


> What's a good brand?


Search the forum. A common topic. So will be questions about how to get started, which follows once you get the lathe.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/where-start-53053/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/getting-started-56449/


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

I agree about being careful on Craigs list. Most of what I see are crap however every now and then a good deal comes along.. 
The best thing is if you see a lathe that your interested in post it here and get an opinion. 
Good brands are Jet, Rikon, Woodfast, General, Nova, 
Harbour freight has some decent lathes and some junk, Grizzly has better lathes but still has some junk. Again the best thing is to let us know what your looking at and we'll try to stear you away from the junk. 
You can learn so much in a good turning club. You can play on other peoples lathes and get good advice so you have a better understanding of how to get into this hobby.


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

Dura craft any good 12" 36" pull over?? Help


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

Wl 1236


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

3/4 hp any good???


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

bostonwindows said:


> 3/4 hp any good???


It depends on what you want to turn.

3/4HP will be fine for spindle work. Can be a bit underpowered for roughing down larger bowls/platters, e.g., > 10in dia.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Without seeing a photo it would be hard to say. Duracraft is one of those generic names probably given to one of the cheap angle iron lathes that aren't very good but then it's hard to tell with just that name.
I looked it up and if it's similar to what I found it's a round tube bed lathe that looks a lot like all the Craftsman lathes of that era. Not very good but not horrible. If you get it cheap enough and everything is there and working it would be OK. You would have to rig up a jackshaft to slow it down enough to turn bowls. The taiilstock never aligns properly on those lathes so anything like drilling would be a challenge as well as turning pens. It has #1 morse tapers which isn't terrible but not great either just limits you on what you can do. 
Personally I would pass on it unless you can get it for like $100.


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

Cool so if you were to get one at harbor freight what kind and size should I get


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

bostonwindows said:


> Cool so if you were to get one at harbor freight what kind and size should I get


If you want a "benchtop", the one that 20/20 pointed you at has a decent reputation -- just be sure to buy the extended replacement warranty.

If you want a stand-alone, the one I got is THIS ONE. It served me well enough till I graduated to a Nova 1624 -- but the downside is its slowest speed setting is a bit too fast for starting out-of-balance bowl blanks. Had to chase mine around the shop a couple of times :laughing:

(Actually, I still have my old one -- if you're interested shoot me a PM.)


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

So a craftsmen is no good?? Seen a lot on CL for around 150


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## 20/20 (Nov 7, 2013)

Bostonwindows: craftsman itself isn't bad there were a couple of solid lathes they had(15" I believe was a good one, outdated now and would be hard to find parts for though). Most of the ones you'll find on CL ,"tube" style are only worth a few bucks, definitely not $150.00.

Duncsuss; brought up one of the other lathes I own from HF. it is the one with the reeves drive. This is a solid lathe just don't care for the drive system, that's why I converted mine once it died. I also weighted mine down to make it stable. I can not knock the lathe completely, I turned for many hours before the drive went out and even made my $$$'s back with it. I now have it on a manual change pully and it's still going strong, I even turned a 15'' diameter bowl once(took a lot of patience).

I agree with the others, find a few that you might have an interest in and post what they are. Once we know what you're looking at we can give opinions. If you can't get a picture then try to get model #'s makes and sizes. I'd also recommend staying away from this style, this is the HF model but it goes under other disguises/brands http://www.harborfreight.com/14-inch-x-40-inch-lathe-with-7-inch-sander-67690.html


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

How about this one


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

bostonwindows said:


> How about this one


I wouldn't spend any money on that.

Look for a lathe with a cast iron bed ("ways") that the tailstock slides along, not a tube. (Not even two tubes.)

If it were a gift, that would be different -- but it simply is not a good lathe.


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

How come? Does it get stuck? He is asking 100


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## 20/20 (Nov 7, 2013)

I agree with Duncsuss, free yes, $100.00 NO


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

bostonwindows said:


> How come? Does it get stuck? He is asking 100


The alignment accuracy cannot be trusted.

How well do you expect the tailstock center point to remain aligned with the headstock center point? It slides along a cylinder. As in "round" ...


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## BigBopper (Jan 16, 2014)

Ok, been looking at this. Im just getting started in turning and can get this at around $200.00 with coupons. What is some opinions on this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-x-33-3-8-eighth-inch-wood-lathe-with-reversible-head-34706.html


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

BigBopper said:


> Ok, been looking at this. Im just getting started in turning and can get this at around $200.00 with coupons. What is some opinions on this?
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-x-33-3-8-eighth-inch-wood-lathe-with-reversible-head-34706.html


Perhaps better to start your own thread.

If you read this thread, post #14 has a comment on this lathe by forum member duncsuss.


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## 20/20 (Nov 7, 2013)

Big Bopper; I also commented on this lathe, it is a solid machine but the reeves drive is slacking. I eventually had to rework mine into a manual 4speed pulley setup. I did a lot of turning with it before it failed but it did fail. Pay a lot of attention to the reeves drive and when running the speed control be VERY EASY and it might last for awhile. The reeves drives on these cheaper lathes can be a HUGE disappointment, especially when in the middle of a project.


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## Priusjames (Jan 13, 2014)

Here's a cast iron version of the craftsman lathe. 

I have no comment or knowledge other than to show an apples to apples visual reference.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Priusjames said:


> Here's a cast iron version of the craftsman lathe.
> 
> I have no comment or knowledge other than to show an apples to apples visual reference.


Oldie, but goodie. :yes:

I think this was the design prior to Craftsman going with the mono-tube or two tubes. I think the cast iron design should have less vibration than a tube style.

I see these now and again on my local Craigs list. Sometimes with motor, sometimes without.


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## 20/20 (Nov 7, 2013)

Priusjames said:


> Here's a cast iron version of the craftsman lathe.
> 
> I have no comment or knowledge other than to show an apples to apples visual reference.


 
Great little lathe but not very up to date. Mine has a dead center(believe that's what it'd be called), have to use wax so the wood doesn't burn. It actually worked well but is limited to what can be done, at least by todays standards.


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## bostonwindows (Jul 7, 2013)

Thank you everyone for your help!!


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## BigBopper (Jan 16, 2014)

20/20 said:


> Big Bopper; I also commented on this lathe, it is a solid machine but the reeves drive is slacking. I eventually had to rework mine into a manual 4speed pulley setup. I did a lot of turning with it before it failed but it did fail. Pay a lot of attention to the reeves drive and when running the speed control be VERY EASY and it might last for awhile. The reeves drives on these cheaper lathes can be a HUGE disappointment, especially when in the middle of a project.


What kind of oil do you use to lube the reeves drive with?


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

bostonwindows said:


> View attachment 87054
> 
> 
> How about this one


I'm just getting into lathes but I think it looks pretty clean. I just bought one of the same for $60 but had to spend $30 for a center and spur. I was missing the foot but improvised. It only had a 12" tool rest so I had to buy a 6" tool rest for $22.
And then I found this one with what appears to have everything for $89 :furious:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sears-Craft...750?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d185e9dc6

There is no shipping but I would have sent my sister who lives near buy to pick it up for me :smile:


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

Another + for staying away from the tube type Craftsman. I had a very similar Jet (who may have made sears). The tailstock alignment is a small guide on the bottom, at most 1/8". You can move the tailstock about 1/2" side to side so no way to have it really aligned.
The tailstock does not have a crank, just the wheel you use with the plam of your hand. About the second bowl I started it shook like crazy and broke the guide underneath. I cut the tube and had a mine tube lathe :yes:. Destine to someday be a sanding disc.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

NCPaladin said:


> A
> The tailstock alignment is a small guide on the bottom, at most 1/8". You can move the tailstock about 1/2" side to side so no way to have it really aligned.


:huh: What are you talking about? It does have an adjustment.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> :huh: What are you talking about? It does have an adjustment.


The screw tightens the tailstock but there is no adjustment for the small pin which registers in the small groove in the mono-tube to align the tailstock to the headstock.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> The screw tightens the tailstock but there is no adjustment for the small pin which registers in the small groove in the mono-tube to align the tailstock to the headstock.


 Actually that's not true. the large bolt above with the crank handle tightens the tail stock and the small brass screw removes the side play. The side play has to be taken out before tightening the Tailstock and before aligning the centers
The center adjust is done at the front at the bottom of the head. the only problem is that if you tighten the head setscrew before aligning the tail, it creates ripples in the tube surface which requires filing to be able to correct the alignment afterward.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

Sleeper said:


> :huh: What are you talking about? It does have an adjustment.


I assume the brass bolt is the alignment? Mine did not have that, it had a slot milled into the tailstock. I can not see the bottom of the tube but again, I assume, there is something for the bolt to register against to keep the tailstock from rotating around. I still had the old section I cut off of mine, the guide is about 1/8 thick and 1/4 wide.
Worked OK with spindles for many many years but when I tried an out of round bowl it was too much for the little guide and it broke on about the second bowl. To have a new guide made would be as much as the lathe was worth so I just cut the tube off.
Maybe yours has a better system.

OK, you posted your second pic while I was taking mine. Your alignment does seem better (at least you have one). But beware, with an out of round piece that small strip is taking most of the abuse.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

My Sears 12in Lathe guide is 1/2” wide and 1/4” thick.











I forgot to mention that the original brass alignment bolt broke off at the hands of the original owner due to his ignorance and I replaced it with a toilet bolt that I just happened to have lying around.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I was just out in the shop playing around with my Sears #11323800 12” Wood Lathe and even after having to fix and replace parts that were destroyed by the previous owner because he just didn’t understand how it worked, I LOVE it. 

I wish I would have found a cleaner one with all the parts, but what can you do if can't wait. For me this lath was perfect and I'm so glad I didn’t spend my money on one of the other recommended lathes. 

Now I have to explain this lathe is NOT heavy duty by no means, but for the small stuff I’ll be doing personally, I just can’t see any other lath that would fill the bill for my particular circumstance. I have a small 2 car garage shop packed full with woodworking equipment that I share with my wife for storage. 

This little lathe is light enough for me to pick up and put completely out of the way when not needed and really if you align it correctly in the right order, I cannot foresee any problems. Plus it was CHEAP. Thats a big plus for me.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

Sleeper said:


> My Sears 12in Lathe guide is 1/2” wide and 1/4” thick.
> 
> _*That should hold up a long long time.*_
> 
> ...


*It should work a long time. My Jet went about 25 years for spindle orientation as needed for flat work. Then I saw this hole and peered in ...  stood too close to the edge and fell into the vortex. *


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## Camden (Oct 22, 2013)

I briefly had a similar craftsman(king-Seely actually made it) with the cast iron ways and tubes set into it. From what I understand, that lathe was designed to be a wood/ metal lathe. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough of the parts(milling vice w/ multi access, etc), and I already have a hot-rodded version of the HF lathe mentioned earlier, so I traded the Craftsman for a motorcycle for my lady. It was a good lathe, though, and on a proper stand(heavy sawhorse ballasted on a lower shelf worked great) it was very still and quiet. If one can be had inexpensively(under 150), I'd buy it.

WCT


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