# Gun cabinet build. Help needed on how to do the gun slots



## Danny870 (Oct 7, 2015)

Hey guys, I have a customer that wants me to build him a nice set of built in type gun racks. It will be built kind of like a traditional gun cabinet, except it will be wider, and it will not have a door. I am building him two, and then another entertainment style cabinet that will go in between them. Do any of you guys have any tips, advice, or suggestions on how I can do the slots that the guns will sit in? They will all be riffles and shotguns, and he has no specific number in mind as far as how many it can hold on each side. Any help and/or advice would be greatly appreciated! V


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

"One way",because you're only limited by your imagination and budget....

A "U" bolt so that it is one leg directly over the other.These pass through the backer bd. secured with counter sunk nuts.Covered with a nice pce of tubing,cut to length and slipped over prior to install.Not to be confused with putting brrls. through the U.They are just vertical deviders.

Now,you can pass a plastic covered cable through U bolts,locked.

Buying some 1/4" threaded rod,bending on a makeshift fixture to whatever radius and leg length...or search for them.We'd just make them.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Danny870 said:


> Hey guys, I have a customer that wants me to build him a nice set of built in type gun racks. It will be built kind of like a traditional gun cabinet, except it will be wider, and it will not have a door. I am building him two, and then another entertainment style cabinet that will go in between them. Do any of you guys have any tips, advice, or suggestions on how I can do the slots that the guns will sit in? They will all be riffles and shotguns, and he has no specific number in mind as far as how many it can hold on each side. Any help and/or advice would be greatly appreciated! V


Does he want utility or is he interested in fancy display?

In a closet I used some screw in shaker pegs for the top and the butt stocks sit on a carpeted surface. It works for me because it is functional. That said, on the bottom I expect the best solution is the normal and usual solution, identical blocks spaced evenly maybe with some nice exposed brass or bronze screws. The top can be a hand made affair with notches that match the butt stock separation or you can use some sort of pegs. The surface that comes in contact with the barrels could be covered in felt.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The barrel end or the butt end?*

You could use this same approach on the barrel ends:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/clamp-storage-better-way-72833/

 

For the butt ends, I just rest mine on a heavy carpet pad on the bottom of the cabinet. That way there is not a specific location for each firearm, so you can change them around if needed. :smile3:

OR you could use the same idea and make "U" shaped blocks to retain them side to side leaving the front end open for easy removal.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Remember, all firearms aren't the same length or width. I would consider a standard slot for the average shotgun or rifle and a few for shorter carbine/22 cal etc, as well as a couple of wide slots for those with fore-stocks that extend up over the normal and usual as well as side-by-sides. You surely don't want the very first result of the customer moving his long guns to his new rack being he doesn't have a place for the Garand, his side-by-side or his carbines.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*That's for certain ....*

I wouldn't free comfortable giving anyone a list of my guns or their dimensions, so unless he's willing to do that there may be a "fitment" issue. It would be great if they could be made adjustable vertically, since rifle barrels are about the same diameter +- 1/4" or so. Shot guns are larger of course. :smile3:

Another idea is to make the barrel ends "wedge" shaped, or tapered, so the barrels fit snug at their correct diameter.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Go look at the gun cabinets/safes in one of your local gun stores.

They are all pretty much the same/common.

George


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

GeorgeC said:


> Go look at the gun cabinets/safes in one of your local gun stores.
> 
> They are all pretty much the same/common.
> 
> George


This, or since this is a paying gig, I could measure my safe for a cut of the profits... :surprise2::grin:


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Personally, I would refuse to do the job as wood cabinets are not theft proof- speaking from experience. I would recommend a safe and box it in with nice cabinetry. You could put a bookcase on the sides and top if room in the home would allow.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's a personal choice*



Pineknot_86 said:


> Personally, I would refuse to do the job as wood cabinets are not theft proof- speaking from experience. I would recommend a safe and box it in with nice cabinetry. You could put a bookcase on the sides and top if room in the home would allow.


I totally agree and would never put my firearms on display, but that's a personal choice. It may depend on a whole lot of other things as to whether someone wants to do this... person is retired, many large dogs, security system, close neighbors, someone's always home, type of neighbor "hood" ....

There are ways to install an alarm within the cabinet also. Children must not have access. 

I wouldn't refuse the job however. Money is money and it's better to make some than lose some. :smile3:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Don't measure a gun safe and replicate that. My gun safe barrel rests are all too high to let my AR's rest on them. I've been meaning to fix that....


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Did the OP ask for opinions on whether someone would or would not build a gun cabinet for some moral or political reasons? Did he ask about safety or security?

He want some tips, tricks or advice on building the cabinet.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

No different in pointing out a dangerous situation in a shop. Not moral or political- just common sense. Kids? No problem but not the biggest problem. Dogs? The thieves drugged our two Irish setters who were not friendly to strangers. They only stole our guns and a few small items. New chain saw and mother's fur coat were in plain sight and they never touched them. Alarm? How long would it take for the police to get there? How long would it take to lift the firearms and scoot? Neighbors? How many homes are burglarized with people in the homes around them? How many people are at home during the day?
A gun shop in NC was robbed- full alarm system, heavy steel door. The thieves backed a truck up and crushed the door, stole what was closest to the door and were gone in less than a minute, according to the police investigation.
I just don't want anyone else to go through what we experienced. Three of the guns stolen were my grandfather's. When they are gone, they are gone. Record all the information of your firearms, including pictures, and give the list to your insurance agent for your file. You might get lucky and get them back. But don't count on it.
I'm in the process of helping to write the new Hunter Education manual for Tennessee. One point I will expand on is the need for total security for your firearms.
I'm done as you all know my position on this.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> Don't measure a gun safe and replicate that. My gun safe barrel rests are all too high to let my AR's rest on them. I've been meaning to fix that....


For spacing only, not for height, as you point out, height wise they are too tall for some items, and way too tall for short items that require tax stamps... :surprise2::grin:


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

"A gun shop in NC was robbed- full alarm system, heavy steel door."

That statement, pretty much, proves that no matter what you do, the bad guys can always find a way around it.

So, a good looking gun display. Don't try to "re-invent the wheel".
It's been done, and will continue to be done this way. Easily accommodates any size rifle or shot gun.

You can even put a locking bar across the upper rest, if security is desired. Even better security would be individual cable locks through each trigger, secured to the back of the display.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Mike, you are so right. BTW, that cabinet is like the one we had. It was the second one- first and last.
Please note that the thieves in NC were in and out in less than a minute. Give them something to delay their actions and that will deter them. The retired county sheriff is a personal friend of mine. When questioned about this topic a while back, he said in 30+ years of law enforcement, he has noted that thieves want to get in and get out *fast*. He says the heavy locker or safe is the best way to prevent firearm theft. 
Trigger locks can be removed at a later time. Cables can be cut. 
Over 4,000 firearms are stolen each day. Why do something to contribute to the statistic? Why take a chance on losing something valuable? My grandfather's guns are gone. That was in March, 1970.
I have stated my position and stick with it with for the reasons given. No further replies are needed as I see no need to come back to this thread.
Good woodworking!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Pineknot_86 said:


> Personally, I would refuse to do the job as wood cabinets are not theft proof- speaking from experience. I would recommend a safe and box it in with nice cabinetry. You could put a bookcase on the sides and top if room in the home would allow.


What? You would refuse to do the job because the guns are not in a safe. 

That is a rather far out reaction to something that is none of your business. The customer did not ask for your opinion on whether or not to build. He asked for something to be built.

It would be your loss.

George


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Go back and read my original post. Such cabinets are not theft-proof!
Mike, you miss the point of the gun shop- the theft occurred in less than a minute. When the thieves broke in, they only took a few guns that were in a rack close to the door. The shop had probably 200-300 firearms. It was a loot-and-scoot!
The same idea applies to a glass front cabinet in the home- similar to what we had in our home. Why make it easier for the thieves to have all your guns readily accessible for another loot-and-scoot? Plus we had to sue the insurance company for the claim. My purpose for sharing this is to keep someone else having to go through the same thing.
George, I would tell him why I would not take the job based on my personal experience as stated.
'Nuff said.


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

Pineknot you also miss the point. The original poster asked for assistance in building a cabinet that a friend/customer has asked him to build. Your posts are continually about a personal experience that add nothing to conversation of helping answer the original poster's questions. I am truly sorry that you had a bad experience where less than honest people stole something of great value to you. However the OP's customer is not the first, and will not be the last, person to build or purchase a cabinet to display their firearms, no matter how many times you come here to post about it, you aren't going to change that. Please, let the thread get back to the topic of answering the OP's questions. To the OP, sorry, I have never built a gun cabinet or a built-in, so I can't add much, but please let us know how your project turns out as I know I and others here on the forum are interested.


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

I prefer rubber cushioned "wavy" lengths of support. They sorta kinda make a pocket for each barrel, but they are not super size sensitive. Each wave can be as deep as your eye likes and as close as you want each gun to rest (but use caution. Some guns are wider than others) . I also like to duplicate the wave on the floor as well as it helps index each piece. Position the floor piece so that each firearm rests squarely on it's butt; the barrel will be close to straight up. This will help prevent twisting of the gun.

I would also be aware of depth of the supports. A scoped varmint rifle can be very tall. Don't want the scope to hit the back wall.

I use rubber for all cushioning (including the floor) since it won't retain moisture, dirt / dust or oil like carpet or fabric. 

Cheers,


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