# Drill press as lite duty arbor press



## ny700 (May 23, 2015)

So here is an odd question. I do a little bit of wood working and have a small shop. I also do some gunsmithing on my own pistols and rifles. 

Of late i have been thinking about adding a drill press to my shop and there is a good condition delt 11-990 local for $100. 

Ive also been loojing st a small arbor press to assit with punching pins when working on fire arms. 

Is there any reason to think that a decent drill press with a roll pin punch chucked up wouldnt be able to handle a being used as a lite weigjt arbor press. Obviously we arent talking about driving 1000lbs of pressure here just replacing the impact force of a lite weight brass mallet

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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think it would work but the drill press isn't designed for that stress so it would soon wear out the gears in the drill press.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

ny700 said:


> So here is an odd question. I do a little bit of wood working and have a small shop. I also do some gunsmithing on my own pistols and rifles.
> 
> Of late i have been thinking about adding a drill press to my shop and there is a good condition delt 11-990 local for $100.
> 
> ...


I do a fair amount of my own 'smithing as well.

For small roll pins and push pins, I would think it would be OK, there can be considerable stress placed on the quill when you are drilling through steel, I don't see how small pins will exceed that. I think as long as you realize it really isn't an arbor press, it will be fine.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Well, it depends on how the works are put together. If the parts on the drill press are put together with roll pins and the like, maybe it is a bit much, but if things on the drill press are through bolted and use solid pins, maybe it will fine. I would look at how the thing is put together before I made a decision. But then again, $100 isn't all that much money and if it doesn't work out you can repair it, part it out or scrap it and and get the right tool for the job.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

The rack and pinion on a decent press should (SHOULD) hold up alright to those forces. Still though, I can't say it sounds like a good idea


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

It would likely work in a pinch, DAMHIK, but you can pick up an actual arbor press for around $50 at Harbor Freight so why risk damaging a tool worth much more than that if you have to replace it.


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## ny700 (May 23, 2015)

FrankC said:


> It would likely work in a pinch, DAMHIK, but you can pick up an actual arbor press for around $50 at Harbor Freight so why risk damaging a tool worth much more than that if you have to replace it.




The issue with the cheap arbor presses is they don't allow for very much clearance. Most only have about 4" of working height and depending on the firearm i would have 1-2" for the frame and then the height of the roll pin punches. B

I would have to construct a heavy raised base for the arbor press that would be strong enough to to handle the working pressure and still allow the item to fit under neath. 
The other option is a $150 shop press but that's a big cost for low use and a lot of floor space 


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

ny700 said:


> The issue with the cheap arbor presses is they don't allow for very much clearance. Most only have about 4" of working height and depending on the firearm i would have 1-2" for the frame and then the height of the roll pin punches. B
> 
> I would have to construct a heavy raised base for the arbor press that would be strong enough to to handle the working pressure and still allow the item to fit under neath.
> The other option is a $150 shop press but that's a big cost for low use and a lot of floor space
> ...


You'll be fine with the DP, it will give you the right amount of "feel" to know if the parts are going together properly. A press, arbor, or hydraulic is going to brute force it, and could lead to damage of the part. You know the limits of the machine, and the parts you are working with, like all operations, make sure you don't get into "if it don't fit force it" mode.

The ability to chuck a pin punch in the chuck is really nice too, again, realize what pieces can fail when you are pressing. I have a shop press, it scares the hell out of me, lots of pressure, things can go flying and break, I keep a 3/4" ply "shield" at the press. A small punch could possible break in the DP and send some ugly pieces flying. Do you have a good bench block? They are worth owning, and make quick work of pins and other driving/pushing operations. 

What are you working on?


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## ny700 (May 23, 2015)

shoot summ said:


> You'll be fine with the DP, it will give you the right amount of "feel" to know if the parts are going together properly. A press, arbor, or hydraulic is going to brute force it, and could lead to damage of the part. You know the limits of the machine, and the parts you are working with, like all operations, make sure you don't get into "if it don't fit force it" mode.
> 
> The ability to chuck a pin punch in the chuck is really nice too, again, realize what pieces can fail when you are pressing. I have a shop press, it scares the hell out of me, lots of pressure, things can go flying and break, I keep a 3/4" ply "shield" at the press. A small punch could possible break in the DP and send some ugly pieces flying. Do you have a good bench block? They are worth owning, and make quick work of pins and other driving/pushing operations.
> 
> What are you working on?




I have a CZ sp01 and a sig p938 I plan to do some trigger work on and both have a few pins that are notoriousfor being tough to work with 


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

If you would really rather have an arbor press here may be an idea for $75.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-Ton-Arbor-Press/T26413?utm_campaign=zPage
If you scroll down below the picture a bit and click on the catalog picture it will show you the tips that go in the arbor shaft. I don't know how hard this steel is but you may be able to cut off the tip and use the insert that goes in the shaft and drill a snug hole that will fit your punch and insert it in the arbor and gain a few inches.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

dirty-curty said:


> If you would really rather have an arbor press here may be an idea for $75.
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-Ton-Arbor-Press/T26413?utm_campaign=zPage
> If you scroll down below the picture a bit and click on the catalog picture it will show you the tips that go in the arbor shaft. I don't know how hard this steel is but you may be able to cut off the tip and use the insert that goes in the shaft and drill a snug hole that will fit your punch and insert it in the arbor and gain a few inches.


On the right hand side of that page there is a model T10049 where the top bolts on to the base, extra clearance could be got by adding a spacer.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

ny700 said:


> I have a CZ sp01 and a sig p938 I plan to do some trigger work on and both have a few pins that are notoriousfor being tough to work with
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So you're working on the most critical part of an $800 handgun. Is that really the kind of thing you want to leave to a "should work" situation?


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## ny700 (May 23, 2015)

epicfail48 said:


> So you're working on the most critical part of an $800 handgun. Is that really the kind of thing you want to leave to a "should work" situation?


I really dont see this as a situation that would damage the firearms. Even in a comp,ete fail it will be pressure applied far more controled than hitting a punch with a hammer. 

The real question is could a DP apply enough force to push the pins. And is the DP robust enough that the force applied wont cause an emediate failure in the DP

I know many gunsmith will use a full size shop press to do so e of this work. 6-12 ton presses arent needed but the work height they provide is sometimes needed. 

I just dknt have room for such a press. My thought is the DP will provide me the working height i need 

Ill need to take a closer look at that grizzley arbor press it has decent height without getti my into the $300 range ive seen with others

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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's a simple test*

Get out your bathroom scale put a block on it to distribute the force and lower the drill press and apply a moderate amount of pressure. You should be able to get at least 200 lbs of force from a decent drill press. If that's not enough then you will need to step up to a rack and pinion arbor press like from Harbor Freight. I have a small 2 ton unit like that, but I don't use it much. The hydraulic types using a bottle jack range from 6 ton, 12 tons and up to 20 tons and are almost always on sale.

I just tested my 20" Jet DP out at 250 lbs and my 15" Craftsman at 240 lbs. both maxed out.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

ny700 said:


> I really dont see this as a situation that would damage the firearms. Even in a comp,ete fail it will be pressure applied far more controled than hitting a punch with a hammer.
> 
> The real question is could a DP apply enough force to push the pins. And is the DP robust enough that the force applied wont cause an emediate failure in the DP
> 
> ...


I have an import DP that is at least 25 years old. I have literally forced bits, hole saws, etc into wood and metal on the thing, not the best respect for it, but what ever I was caught up in the moment with, the DP paid the price for it. I've performed operations where I put a lot of lateral force on the quill, which is far worse than downward force. And yet it still is just fine, no issues or problems with it. The handles are going to limit the amount of downward force you have, again, you will know when you are putting too much effort into it.

When you are working with sears and hammers in the pistol, remember to go slow, and be deliberate, it's pretty easy to ruin a sear. 

This is one of my recent projects, I milled the muzzle, blasted the entire pistol, and had it Cerkoted black. This particular family of S&W .22 has a low barrel, and is easy to adapt muzzle accessories to...










This is a 6" version of the same family of pistol that I milled.










The intent was to get a similar appearance to the factory "vent rib" pistol which sells for 4x the standard pistols.










I might have an OCD issue, this was the last time I pulled them out for a family picture, the family continues to grow...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*shoot some??*

Some of those look like Brownings, the others look like Smith and Wesson... all .22's? Very cool.:nerd2:


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> Some of those look like Brownings, the others look like Smith and Wesson... all .22's? Very cool.:nerd2:


Thanks!

All S+W .22, all the same family except the smallest blued one, it's the same design, but from the early 70's. The others are based on the same mechanics.

These are the 422(black/aluminum), 622(silver/aluminum), 2206(silver/stainless), 2213(silver/aluminum/compact. They share the same slides and internals, just the frames differ.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*get a grip bro .....*

I like the grip on this one and it reminded me of my Browning .22 Medalist switch barrel. I sanded off the sharp edges and oiled it, ruined the antique value. OH Well. Who cares?


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> I like the grip on this one and it reminded me of my Browning .22 Medalist switch barrel. I sanded off the sharp edges and oiled it, ruined the antique value. OH Well. Who cares?
> 
> Nice grip!


Those are made by Altamont, I snatch up every set of those I come across, they are a nice grip.

The way I look at it, is it's your gun, do what you want to it, if you like it smoothed out and oiled, then that's what matters. I have an old Ruger standard .22, had it re-blued, it's gorgeous, but ruined the collector value, don't care, I like it the way it is now!!


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## Connor5543 (Jan 19, 2021)

ny700 said:


> So here is an odd question. I do a little bit of wood working and have a small shop. I also do some gunsmithing on my own pistols and rifles.
> 
> Of late i have been thinking about adding a drill press to my shop and there is a good condition delt 11-990 local for $100.
> 
> ...


I have this 30yr old delta that has been well abused, WELL abused. There is nothing I have not made this thing do, I have only ever had to replace the belt and the on off switch and the plastic hight adjustment handel (vicegrips) still drills holes with precision still i use it for leather pressing and metal stamping, boring big ass barstool, milling, burnishing. Ect s**t this thing has fallen off the bench and hit the ground. Correction broke the friggin ground. This thing would effectively stop an Abrams tank In its tracks. Don't be scared it'll work


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

ny700 said:


> So here is an odd question. I do a little bit of wood working and have a small shop. I also do some gunsmithing on my own pistols and rifles.
> 
> Of late i have been thinking about adding a drill press to my shop and there is a good condition delt 11-990 local for $100.
> 
> ...


See my previous post number 14!
That will work fine. There are some stubborn pins on an AR front sight that it won't work well for DAMHIKT. But for roll pins it should be fine. A older 1/2" drill press will have a fair;y substantial rack and pinion drive fro the quill, BUT no where near as robust as a 1 ton arbor press:
1 Ton Arbor Press
If you can affod the $60.00 in addition to the drill press, that a much better way to go. I've had one like that for years for bearing and seals in auto repair. I wish I had a 20 ton press sometimes though ...just sayin'


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