# BAD craftsman BAD SAW any idea's????



## BigFishBite (Mar 22, 2008)

Sorry this is so long.
I bought 3 Craftsman power tools couple months back, and have all ready sold the drill press, and band saw, the quality of the tools was crap, all day tuning up the band saw and still would not produce a cut that did not need to much extra work to clean up, the drill press had a life time lubed bearing start making noise SEARS would not replace drill or motor.
The last and soon to go to my attorney's office is the Craftsman Table Saw(part # 315.218050, I replaced the blade with a $30 harbor freight blade it shattered and made hamburger out of two finger tips and shaved off the back of the thumb, one piece of the blade hit and shattered my shop door window.
This morning I tried cutting a piece of nylon and it also kicked back, I found one piece but don't know where the other went.
I have used machinist tools to check for square and blade wobble, saw is square and the blade only wobbles .003", however the throat plate at the front sits 1/32" below the table surface but is flush in the back, the small open side on the left tilts towards the blade.
I am now afraid to use the saw after so many kick backs and will soon be looking for a new table saw or go back to my 30 year old Black & Decker that has not ever given me any trouble.
Last but not lease, I will never buy another cra(F)(P)tsman power tool of any kind, the quality is not there any more and I don't trust them anymore.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Sorry to here you had so many problems and that is a pretty nasty wound. What kind of blade did you pay $30 for at harbor freight, and maybe it was the blade? I have the 14" craftsman professional band saw and have no problems. What model band saw and drill press did you have?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Dial 1 800 get a lawyer*

This isn't right. A blade should never come apart like that all other things being aligned properly. I have avoided HF blades just by chance, but now hearing this I would NEVER get one. A $30.00 Freud Diable is a great blade at Home Depot. That's a serious injury worthy of a lawsuit...JMO...:blink: 
I understand your frustration with Craftsman, but Harbor Freight is the 
"villain" here, rather than Craftsman, the way you've explained it. :thumbdown:
bill


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## Yeorwned (Jan 9, 2010)

I hate to say it in your condition, but you got what you paid for! As if the Craftsman power tools weren't cheap enough, you added a HF blade? I understand the desire to save money but maybe a Harbor Freight lesson was learned here finally for you. That sadly probably wasn't the saw's fault...

For the record, I also tossed all of my "modern" Craftsman tools after less than 15 minutes of use on a table saw and a drill press. Chinese garbage!

Sorry for your pain BigFishBite.


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## BigFishBite (Mar 22, 2008)

The HF blade is in the hands of my lawyer, as for the other kick backs, I went back to the Craftsman factory blade, and yes the saw is going to my attorney, it is going to be spec out by an independent firm to try to see what is wrong, if anything. It would be one thing if I was trying to do something that was not meant to be done but trying to cut 1/2" thick nylon and or 1/2" soft pine is another thing!
I guess the bottom line is no more HF blades and no more Craftsman power tools period......................................


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Yeorwned said:


> I hate to say it in your condition, but you got what you paid for! As if the Craftsman power tools weren't cheap enough, you added a HF blade? I understand the desire to save money but maybe a Harbor Freight lesson was learned here finally for you. That sadly probably wasn't the saw's fault...
> 
> For the record, I also tossed all of my "modern" Craftsman tools after less than 15 minutes of use on a table saw and a drill press. Chinese garbage!
> 
> Sorry for your pain BigFishBite.



For the record not all craftsman tools are junk. Grizzley, Shop Fox and many other brands including Delta, Jet etc are partially or entirely made in china. Most electric motors or made in China and the better ones are made in Taiwan. Unless its a 3 phase motor it's probably not made in the USA.

As for Harbor Freight blades I have used them on chop saws for a long time especially when nails may be involved. Most HF 10" blades are $10-$20 regular price I have used $5 blades with no problem. I looked on HF and only seen 12" blades and Dado blades for $30 that's why I asked what blade cost $30 at HF. Something is seriously wrong if he had a blade shatter and kick back while cutting nylon. 

For the record I have Shop fox, Porta Cable, Dewalt, Craftsman and even a few HF tools, I use Freud blades but have used some cheaper blades at times. Not everyone makes all good or bad tools and not everyone can afford the best tools. _*That said no tool or blade should do that no matter what the cost.*_


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## aggreX (Aug 14, 2008)

Good thing it was only the finger(s)! I may start using gloves regularly in addition to goggles when performing tablesaw cuts to avoid some projectiles. This confirms my avoidance of HF blades and some HF power tools. 
At certain pricepoints Craftsman is not the only retailer with imported powertools. Some highly regarded brands are closely related to Craftsman powertools and viceversa. HF is not the only source of imported parts, tools, blades, etc so buyer beware because brand name is not enough today.


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## farmerkev (Dec 4, 2009)

I am fairly new to woodworking on my own. And I have already made up my mind on crapsman tools. I just bought a brand new craftsman mechanics set, and as far as hand tools goes, I love craftsman. But if it has a power cord....:thumbdown:. I have a router that broke the first day I had it, it was replaced free and so far works, but I also bought a mid range price table saw from them that is junk. Hardly has power to cut pine, even with a nice marathon blade on it.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Wear no gloves!*



aggreX said:


> Good thing it was only the finger(s)!* I may start using gloves regularly in addition to goggles when performing tablesaw *cuts to avoid some projectiles.......
> 
> Every owner's manual and instruction book will tell you* never wear gloves* or loose clothing around rotating, or spinning tools or workpieces. They may get caught and pull your hand into the cutters..... Don't create a problem trying to solve a problem that has other solutions...push blocks or push sticks, hold downs etc.
> Stay safe! :thumbsup: bill


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## Ed'sGarage (Aug 16, 2007)

*Craftsman, blades and gloves*

I'm with the consensus here. First, it's definitely a tragedy what happened to your fingers. I hope they heal quickly and there are no after effects. That being said, as already mentioned most of the machinery we buy today, regardless of industry, is no longer manufactured here in the states. Although, I don't like Craftsman, it's because you don't seem to find anyone in their stores that knows anything, so the service kind of sucks. I DO think that regardless if you buy a Craftsman or a more expensive name, there is always a chance of having a problem tool. I tend to stay away from Harbour Freight becuase I firmly believe you get what you pay for. I use Forest Blades on my TS. I know they cost a lot, but I have a better chance of getting quality at a higher price.

I used to own a factory and YOU DO NOT WEAR GLOVES or anything else that could get caught in machinery when you're operating it. If you have to make a choice, buy a cheaper blade or tool, but please don't wear gloves.

Just my .02
Ed


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Just for the record. Nearly all woodworking equipment is made in the same overseas factories. Tolerances vary among brands.


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## old toymaker (Mar 15, 2009)

from my experience I have to say sears power tools are cheap tools in a nice looking package. I had trouble with sears tools throwing the contacts on the armatures during steady use, 10 to 20 minutes running time. (This was sears best) after third went in 6 months they refused replacement. Made it to head boy in Sears tower in Chicago. Was informed sears best was only designed to run 10 minutes in an hour. Contacts are held on by epoxy, when it gets hot epoxy softens, pieces move out of place. I have not been in sears tool store since. I buy name brand usually for less money and have not had any more problems.


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## aggreX (Aug 14, 2008)

Thanks for the update on gloves but that picture of the fingers was pretty gross. Gloved or not I always keep my fingers away with the push stick and the saw gets total respect.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

I would still like to know what blade was $30 at HF? How about some pictures of the saw? Sounds like something is bent or loose to me.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I am sorry for your accident and your injury, but:

I have been a Craftsman tool owner for 50 years. I have never had a problem with ANY of their tools. Virtually all of the tools in my garage are Craftsman. ALL of the large tools are Sears. They range in age from a couple only 2 or3 years old to over 25 years old.

But the thing that surprises me most is that they are refusing to take back any that you have problems with. I have NEVER heard of anyone having that problem. I have stood in Sears and watched them take back tools that were obviously abused by the owner. They never questioned it.

Have you talked to the store manager about your problems or only to a clerk?

You cannot accept just the first answer that you receive if there is a problem.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

rrbrown said:


> _*That said no tool or blade should do that no matter what the cost.*_



My thoughts exactly. Sorry about the injury. Not that I'm doubting the veracity of the story, and it could all be very true. I don't know exactly what was being cut or the methods used in that procedure. I will say that most injuries are operator error. 

In fact, I'll stick my neck out and say all injuries. It can be operator responsibility to make sure the tools/machinery are in good working order. It can be operator responsibility for rigging machinery improperly, or using subpar parts. It is the operator responsibility in the operation of the tool/machine. In fact a smart lawyer would say it was your responsibility to get out of the way, or just being in the way.

I don't bash brands, and I try to make do with the tools I use. I sure call some tools names when I get hurt, but it's me, not them.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That's a nasty looking injury, and I'm sorry to hear that you've had this experience.

I think RRBrown hit the nail on the head...Craftsman offers a very wide range of products....they compete with entry level DIY names like Skil & B&D, all the way up to well respected machinery names like Jet, GI, Grizzly, Ridgid, Delta imports and others. Whereas many companies offer different brands to cater to different levels of the market. Some Craftsman tools are very good...some are not, so it's simply not accurate to group them all together as being the same....they aren't. Ie: they currently offer a well regarded line of band saws that are thought to be made by Richen Enterprises (owner of Rikon), a very well regarded hybrid saw made by Steel City's Orion, and they used to have a red clone of the blue Bosch 1617 router. The Craftsman Professional 32808, 32809, and 32864 are made by Freud and are very similar to the former Freud Avanti line. There are thousands of folks that have gotten good service out of Craftsman tools, but it is important to pick their better products and avoid the inferior designs that are lousy tools regardless of the brand name slapped on them, whether the name is Skil, GMC, Tradesman, Ryobi, Central Machinery or other. It's also important to note that a defect from any brand can and does occur, but it's usually an isolated incident and not indicative of a widespread systemic manufacturing problem, which should result in a recall.

Harbor Freight is another supplier who has some reasonable tools if you select carefully, but they also have some really poorly made tools. I've had some good luck with a few, but by and large I advice against using their high speed carbide tipped cutters because there's too much at risk, and there are too many other good choices. The same $30 would buy a very good and very well proven Freud blade made in Italy, an excellent Delta 7657 made in the USA, or a great value blade from Oshlun.

FWIW. A Craftsman table saw with a model # prefix of 315.###### would have been made by TTI/Ryobi, the parent company for Ryobi and Milwaukee, and manufacturer of several of the Ridgid tools.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> I am sorry for your accident and your injury, but:
> 
> I have been a Craftsman tool owner for 50 years. I have never had a problem with ANY of their tools. Virtually all of the tools in my garage are Craftsman. ALL of the large tools are Sears. They range in age from a couple only 2 or3 years old to over 25 years old.
> 
> ...


George is right many of you know my wife works at sears (because I'm always getting deals). I'm not saying anything because of her employer. She works in the RTV where they take all stuff returned and send it back to the vendors. She says all the time that they get stuff that is obviously abused but they generally take it back. Occasionally they draw a line but they have taken stuff that has been taken apart by the owner then returned with 1/2 the parts missing. 

Cabinetman is also right about human error being the cause of most if not all accidents. I believe there could be more to the story that we don't know. If there is a problem with equipment we need to pass the word but we still need more info to help figure out what actually happen.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

cabinetman said:


> My thoughts exactly. Sorry about the injury. Not that I'm doubting the veracity of the story, and it could all be very true. I don't know exactly what was being cut or the methods used in that procedure. I will say that most injuries are operator error.
> 
> In fact, I'll stick my neck out and say all injuries. It can be operator responsibility to make sure the tools/machinery are in good working order. It can be operator responsibility for rigging machinery improperly, or using subpar parts. It is the operator responsibility in the operation of the tool/machine. In fact a smart lawyer would say it was your responsibility to get out of the way, or just being in the way.


My thoughts exactly. Can you post a picture of this shattered saw blade? I'd like to see that. I've had a tablesaw kick back one time, and it was my fault. Every time I've been injured by a power tool it has been my fault. Sorry, but I'd be willing to bet that's the case here too. 

Last time I got hurt was when my 18v Ridgid cordless drill bound and swing around and the battery hit me in the eye socket. Got several stitches and a black eye. Hmmmm....Maybe I should've sued Ridgid for not padding their batteries, sued the drill bit manufacturer for making bits that bind, and perhaps sued the lumber company that put the knot in the wood. :huh:

On a side note, it is a fairly well-understood courtesy on woodworking sites that if you're going to put graphic gory pictures in your thread, you need to let people know in the title. Lots of people don't care to look at your insides without being prepared for it in advance.


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## Norman Pyles (Dec 30, 2007)

First, sorry to hear about your injury, hope you heal quickly. 
Second, I think you should think about getting a new hobby. :smile:


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I have a mixed opinion on Craftsman tools, because I have some that are outstanding.
1. C3 cordless tools
2. Palm Router
3. New 1 3/4 hp router
4. mechanics tools
5. Roll away tool chest
6. Lathe
7. Bandsaw
8. Radial Arm Saw 

I have some that just flat out suck. 

1. Older 1 3/4 hp router. 
2. 6'' jointer
3. craftsman pliers
4. Hand sander`
5. corded drill


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## gadwood (Feb 3, 2010)

*Craftsman OK*

I dont know if Craftsman today is the same as years ago, but I have a 1HP router 20 years ago that works great (for a 1HP router). I have a Sears 10" table saw I bought 7 years ago, cast iron, not the Professional series. This saw is terrific. I do take the time to make sure the throat plate is even with the surface, and the splitter is fussy; once it's set, the wood goes right through. I do use the guard, splitter and pawls. Never had a problem. Never had kickback, cause the pawls are in place. Also use a dado set (grizzly). 

I saw another thread in a different forum where all responders admitted they didn't use a guard. Too many said they don't even know what the guard looks like. I think we need more information to make a decision. A saw wont cause the blade to break apart. Something else did. He even said the throat plate wasn't even. Was it nylon, or a harder brittle plastic?


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## gadwood (Feb 3, 2010)

*Craftsman experience*

I dont know if Craftsman today is the same as years ago, but I have a 1HP router 20 years ago that works great (for a 1HP router). I have a Sears 10" table saw I bought 7 years ago, cast iron, not the Professional series. This saw is terrific. I do take the time to make sure the throat plate is even with the surface, and the splitter is fussy; once it's set, the wood goes right through. I do use the guard, splitter and pawls. Never had a problem. Never had kickback, cause the pawls are in place. Also use a dado set (grizzly). 

I saw another thread in a different forum where all responders admitted they didn't use a guard. Too many said they don't even know what the guard looks like. I think we need more information to make a decision. A saw wont cause the blade to break apart. Something else did. He even said the throat plate wasn't even. Was it nylon, or a harder brittle plastic?


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Colt W. Knight said:


> I have some that just flat out suck.
> 
> 1. Older 1 3/4 hp router.
> 2. 6'' jointer
> ...


 I have the Craftsman professional 6" jointer that I bought new with 2 yr warranty tax and all around $170.00 can't remember the exact amount but it should have been $600 plus. I love it and it works great but I've only used it a few times.

That's why I said no manufacture makes all good or bad tools. I don't know to many people that or brand specific for tools but someone on here has a shop full of Rigid tools. I don't remember who but it looked like the tool department in Home Depot when they posted their shop pictures. :laughing:


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

rrbrown said:


> I have the Craftsman professional 6" jointer that I bought new with 2 yr warranty tax and all around $170.00 can't remember the exact amount but it should have been $600 plus. I love it and it works great but I've only used it a few times.
> 
> That's why I said no manufacture makes all good or bad tools. I don't know to many people that or brand specific for tools but someone on here has a shop full of Rigid tools. I don't remember who but it looked like the tool department in Home Depot when they posted their shop pictures. :laughing:


I've me two other people with my exact model jointer from craftsman and they both had the same issues I've had. This particular model is just junk. Its probably nearly thirty years old.


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## bikebcarrell (Nov 16, 2010)

*I cut my hand off also with the same saw.*

I cut my hand with the same saw with a kick back accident. I lost my index finger and cut through the back of digits 3, 4 and 5. My little finger is fused at the first joint and I'm limited by my now impaired strength and range of motion. I won't post the gory pics. incase my mom or wife stumble across this post. Worst injury of my life. Sucks.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I have to disagree that all accidents are the fault of the operator. I have had several mishaps and have been cut, kicked back etc and they were my fault. I just narrowly escaped major injury from a miter saw. Back when I was building many stairs I had a 15 inch Hitachi miter saw as it would cut a 45° on a 1X8 standing up edge ways. 

I had just cut a small piece and the head of the saw was up, the blade was still spinning as I had just let go of the trigger. The brake was shot as the 15 inch blade was just too much for the brake after a couple of years of everyday use. I reached under the blade to get the small piece I had just cut and as I was moving the piece out from under the blade the spring holding the head in the up position snapped and down came the running saw blade just missing my fingers. I am sure some will say it was my fault because the guard was not on the saw but not having the guard would not have kept the spring from snapping.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Sorry to hear about your accident. I've seen a bunch.

Just noticed you said .003 wobble? That's too much. Sure the blade was not BENT .003? If it was, it was defective.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

jiju1943 said:


> I have to disagree that all accidents are the fault of the operator. I have had several mishaps and have been cut, kicked back etc and they were my fault. I just narrowly escaped major injury from a miter saw. Back when I was building many stairs I had a 15 inch Hitachi miter saw as it would a 45° on a 1X8 standing up edge ways.
> 
> I had just cut a small piece and the head of the saw was up, the blade was still spinning as I had just let go of the trigger. The brake was shot as the 15 inch blade was just too much for the brake after a couple of years of everyday use. I reached under the blade to get the small piece I had just cut and as I was moving the piece out from under the blade the spring holding the head in the up position snapped and down came the running saw blade just missing my fingers. I am sure some will say it was my fault because the guard was not on the saw but not having the guard would not have kept the spring from snapping.


The lesson is to NEVER EVER put any part of your body in any position where it could contact a moving blade. Regardless of whether it is a mechanical failure or your movement, the results are the same. Wait until the blade has stopped moving

George


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## bikebcarrell (Nov 16, 2010)

*Safe table saw*

Hi After my injury with a table saw I think I will buy a "saw stop" brand table saw. for 1600 dollars it won't cut you. My injury was the most painful experience of my life. It took a 100,000 dollar + surgery to repair my hand that was 5 hours long and I stopped breathing 5 times during the operation. Is less likely to cut you badly. If anyone in going to a woodworking shop to shop for table saws and you see a saw-stop sitting next to any other brand of nice and you don't buy the saw stop, I think your an idiot. I really wish I was clearer in my foresight than my hindsight or I would have never cut my fingers off. I love my hands. I make beautiful cedar boats and can pick up my kids. I never want to have an injury like this again. There is only one table saw that is sold with this technology. Until all/more saw makers adapt similar safety protocols I wouldn't even consider them as viable options for a saw. Just my 2 c.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Years ago I was a Husqvarna dealer. I was engaged in a safety discussion with my rep when he mentioned that all the disclaimers and warning lablels on the US saws weren't present on the Swedish saws. When asked why, H e said "No self respecting Swede would ever admit they did something as stupid as Americans sue for".

On a side note. Craftsman tools are being separated from the Sears identity. They will be marketed as a tool brand and you will soon see them popping up in various retailers. (ie... Kmart and ACE).


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## NYwoodworks (Sep 19, 2010)

I am sorry to hear about your injuries and granted the saw may have had some issues with the plate but I have to agree with the others thinking there may have been operator error or poor judgment on the use of the saw.
The way you describe the plate being flush on the back and down in the front that should not have affected normal use of the saw. In my opinion if this did affect what you are doing you should not have been using the saw this way or you should take the time to fix it or replace it.
I would guess that you may have been trying to cut something too small and it bound up. I may be wrong but I have a feeling this is the case.
I have read this post several times before I decided to respond because I feel that there are many people out there that do not understand the consequences of improper use of a table saw or even what the improper use is.

I was taught at a very young age about safe use of a table saw had I not known I may have had an accident myself. 

The biggest thing I was taught was, "do not be afraid of the saw but respect it because it will bite". After 35 years I still think about that, in fact I make it a point to pause before I cut, I look at the whole situation, see where my hands are going to be and asses the cut to see if there could be any danger of binding or kick back before I even turn on the saw.

What really concerns me now is we have all these safety features on the saws to protect us and that's great. But I feel the best safety feature would be the teaching of proper use of the saw and the dangers of misuse.

I was on a big job this last summer where we had a table saw and I have to tell you the guys that were using it scared me have to death, I couldn't believe it. I saw fingers to close to blades, kick back pieces flying out the back of the saw, trying to cross cut using the fence on small pieces and other foolish cutting practices. The thing is these guys were supposed to be carpenters.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The basic safety "laws"*

Murhpy's Law...if it can go wrong, it will. 
The Law of Gravity, things fall down or over.
Newtons Law, things in motion tend to stay in motion.

 Before starting any operation, as stated above run it through in your head and think of ALL the possibilities that can happen. Plan for them to happen and when they do have a plan as to what you're going to do about it. :thumbsup:

Last night I needed to slot or kerf a 20" piece of 2" PVC for about 10"down one end, but not all the way through. It was a "little" scary. OK, the PVC is round, it can twist or rotate in the operation, when or if I pull it back out it could rotate, maybe not. OK, I'll just shut the saw down with my knee kicker off switch. Fire up the saw at 1/2" depth of cut, slowly feed the PVC into the blade using the low position fence, so I can grasp the piece and keep it from rotating, (the Unifence has a high or low position) cut up to the mark, kick the saw off and wait until the blade stops...Great! No problems. 

I probably would not have done this if the kerf need to be a through cut. The band saw would be a safer way.

The laws of physics come into play at all times and the tool operator needs to have the vision to foresee the events that may occur. *With age comes experience* and having had Bad Things Happen previously adds to the experience stuck away in your memory. Younger operators don't have that bank of experience to rely on and sometimes BTH. Also being in a hurry, or working late when tired, we tend to "push" the envelope on safety and procedures that we normally would not do when thinking more clearly., then BTH....:yes:

If you can keep your hands and fingers back from the blade about 3" then chances are pretty good they won't get into it.
Stay out of the "red zone", and use a push stick when entering it and have it handy....just to the right of the fence at all times! And use the correct push stick, for the operation you intend to perform, they don't all work the same, different ones for different purposes!  bill

How and why kickback occurs:


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

burkhome said:


> Years ago I was a Husqvarna dealer. I was engaged in a safety discussion with my rep when he mentioned that all the disclaimers and warning lablels on the US saws weren't present on the Swedish saws. When asked why, H e said "No self respecting Swede would ever admit they did something as stupid as Americans sue for".
> 
> On a side note. Craftsman tools are being separated from the Sears identity. They will be marketed as a tool brand and you will soon see them popping up in various retailers. (ie... Kmart and ACE).



Have you seen the new Sears catalog? "Santamazingtools", it's called.

They must now be selling tools from every country on the planet.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

NYwoodworks said:


> I am sorry to hear about your injuries and granted the saw may have had some issues with the plate but I have to agree with the others thinking there may have been operator error or poor judgment on the use of the saw.
> The way you describe the plate being flush on the back and down in the front that should not have affected normal use of the saw. In my opinion if this did affect what you are doing you should not have been using the saw this way or you should take the time to fix it or replace it.
> I would guess that you may have been trying to cut something too small and it bound up. I may be wrong but I have a feeling this is the case.
> I have read this post several times before I decided to respond because I feel that there are many people out there that do not understand the consequences of improper use of a table saw or even what the improper use is.
> ...



Yeah, but carpenters don't necessarily make Cut-men.:no:


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## Chancewoodchuck (Sep 27, 2011)

Under powered tool + inferior blade = TROUBLE


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

farmerkev said:


> I am fairly new to woodworking on my own. And I have already made up my mind on crapsman tools. I just bought a brand new craftsman mechanics set, and as far as hand tools goes, I love craftsman. But if it has a power cord....:thumbdown:. I have a router that broke the first day I had it, it was replaced free and so far works, but I also bought a mid range price table saw from them that is junk. Hardly has power to cut pine, even with a nice marathon blade on it.


We had a guy at work last year lose half his arm because he was wearing gloves while running a lathe...gloves are scary dangerous around moving parts.


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## Plugger (Jul 24, 2017)

Don't wear gloves!!! If work gloves get caught in the blade, they will suck your hand in. Instead, make sure the motor mounts and blade are secure (e.g. not wobbling), use push sticks and the fence or mitre gauge as needed. Avoid freehand cuts and feed at a rate that the blade can cut at.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Ever notice the original poster went by bigfishbite. The whole story looked fishy to me and I'm not biting. I've seen blades get the carbide teeth broken off and other blades mangled but that is too much of a stretch to say a blade broke all to pieces.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

I have never heard of a saw blade explode either and in my younger days when I had the hot temper, I abused the chit out of some of them

When it was my fault for cutting something wrong

But since my kick back episode I am much more cautious


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I remember one time cutting particle board with a radial arm saw with a 16" carbide blade. There was something perhaps a bolt hidden in the particle board and it took nearly all the teeth off the blade. That was as close to an explosion I've ever had. It took a chunk about 6" diameter out of the board but nothing hit me or anyone else. I never even found what I hit.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Original post started in 2010. I wonder if Mr. Colt Knight ever posted again? 

I've never seen a sawblade come apart. 
Years ago some of the old shapers used blades sandwiched between two washers. This design has about been totally replaced with cutters made with a centerhole to drop over the spindle now. But years ago a lot of guys still cut their own molding designs in their blades. I saw a blade come out and hit a man in the shoulder when the shaper was started. It was bad but I'm amazed it wasn't much worse. Guy was back on the job the next day.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Toolman50 said:


> Original post started in 2010. I wonder if Mr. Colt Knight ever posted again?
> 
> I've never seen a sawblade come apart.
> Years ago some of the old shapers used blades sandwiched between two washers. This design has about been totally replaced with cutters made with a centerhole to drop over the spindle now. But years ago a lot of guys still cut their own molding designs in their blades. I saw a blade come out and hit a man in the shoulder when the shaper was started. It was bad but I'm amazed it wasn't much worse. Guy was back on the job the next day.


You can still buy a smooth collar and bar steel and make your own sets of knives. This is what I do. What made it bad is how these guys were making the knives. They would make just one knife and just stick any old knife on the opposite side. This throws the machine badly out of balance and greatly increases the chance of a knife coming out. Also when you start up a shaper with that kind of knives in it you should put a big piece of wood between the cutter and everyone else just in case. In more than 30 years I've never had a knife come out but I make two knives as close to each other as possible and make them within five tenths of a gram the same weight as each other.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> You can still buy a smooth collar and bar steel and make your own sets of knives. This is what I do. What made it bad is how these guys were making the knives. They would make just one knife and just stick any old knife on the opposite side. This throws the machine badly out of balance and greatly increases the chance of a knife coming out. Also when you start up a shaper with that kind of knives in it you should put a big piece of wood between the cutter and everyone else just in case. In more than 30 years I've never had a knife come out but I make two knives as close to each other as possible and make them within five tenths of a gram the same weight as each other.


The accident made me scared of the shaper from that point on. Especially with cutters snugged down between two collars. Later I bought a small Sears shaper but only used 3 wing cutters with a center hole. I sold the shaper years ago after larger bits became available for the table router.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Toolman50 said:


> The accident made me scared of the shaper from that point on. Especially with cutters snugged down between two collars. Later I bought a small Sears shaper but only used 3 wing cutters with a center hole. I sold the shaper years ago after larger bits became available for the table router.


Back when I was a kid on one of my first woodworking jobs I was suppose to run some molding on a shaper which the boss set up for me. He had done like I warned about had one knife for cutting and a much smaller knife on the other side. It was a Delta shaper you can't really get a good tight on the knives anyway and it threw the knife. It didn't hit anyone and I don't remember if the knife was ever found. I didn't run a shaper again for many years and then it was for a company that had Northfield shapers and had all their knives well made and balanced. The only shortcoming there was they would grind a design on both ends of the knife and sometimes there wasn't very much in the middle. I remember I heard an unusual noise when I was tightening the knives and noticed a crack in the middle so that set was retired. In my shop I will grind a design on both ends as long as it leaves good metal to fasten in the collar. The only time it's a little frightening is running panel raise knives. It creates so much wind it almost deafening.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Years back I bought a 3hp 220 shaper, that sucker scared the dickens out of me. Some of my cutters were 6 inches in diameter, man talk about noise, that thing sounded like a jet warming up, I sold it. I have a smaller Delta shaper now but use router bits in it mostly.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

BigJim said:


> Years back I bought a 3hp 220 shaper, that sucker scared the dickens out of me. Some of my cutters were 6 inches in diameter, man talk about noise, that thing sounded like a jet warming up, I sold it. I have a smaller Delta shaper now but use router bits in it mostly.


You should try some of mine. :smile3:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> You should try some of mine. :smile3:


No thanks, I will pass, I just don't trust the big shapers.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Toolman50 said:


> Original post started in 2010. I wonder if Mr. Colt Knight ever posted again?
> 
> I've never seen a sawblade come apart.
> Years ago some of the old shapers used blades sandwiched between two washers. This design has about been totally replaced with cutters made with a centerhole to drop over the spindle now. But years ago a lot of guys still cut their own molding designs in their blades. I saw a blade come out and hit a man in the shoulder when the shaper was started. It was bad but I'm amazed it wasn't much worse. Guy was back on the job the next day.


Not sure why I am being called out on a 7 year old thread? I use to hang out on this forum and one for guitar building a lot. Once I started back into Grad school I didn't have time to kill on the forums anymore, so I just quit visiting. Still get the email notifications though.


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