# Porter-Cable Router



## Kleptican (Jan 14, 2013)

Hey all,

I'm just a beginner and there are a couple of small projects that I think a router would be perfect for. I'm not looking for professional versions that are expected to be used constantly; however, from what I hear, Porter-Cable seems to be one of the go-to brands for routers. I came across two models: 690LR and 9690LR.

Is there any real difference between the two? They seem identical except for the design.

Thanks for any input.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Looking on Amazon.....

They say that the 690 is 1.5 HP one place and 1.75 another place.
The 9690 boasts both 1/2 and 1/4 collets and 1.75 HP.

All the 690 that I have purchased came with both collets. I think that 690 is an older designation for the router. The PC brand has been bounced about between different companies of late. At one point the then current owners tried to use a six or seven digit model number. The market place refused and continued to call it by the 690 nomenclature. 

If you can find a new 690LR, I would go for that one because the probability that the router is American made is much better. PC has moved some manufacturing to Asia over the last couple of years. I don't know if the routers are being made off shore.


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## GISer3546 (Jan 30, 2013)

In my opinion if you're going to have one router it has to take both 1/4 and 1/2 inch bits and have adjustable speed. If it doesn't you're limiting yourself substantially to a small percentage of what routers can be used for. I returned my first router bc it didn't have those things. Besides that I just purchased a porter cable drill press and am beyond surprised with the quality.


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

The 690LR is 1 3/4 and is kind of the industry standard, comes with both 1/4" and 1/2".

Grizzly has a good deal at the moment for $129.00, Lowes had the same price a couple of weeks ago, but they are back up to $149.00, see if you can get them to price match.


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

Couple weeks ago I picked up a Ridgid router that came with both fixed base and plunge base for about $175 or so. Considering its essentially a 2-for-1 proposition and you get the Ridgid LSA (with registration) its a pretty good deal.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

If I remember correctly, the 690LR is a fixed speed, 27,500 rpm router. Way fast for most table use bits. The LRVS is the variable speed version.:smile:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

craigwbryant said:


> Couple weeks ago I picked up a Ridgid router that came with both fixed base and plunge base for about $175 or so. Considering its essentially a 2-for-1 proposition and you get the Ridgid LSA (with registration) its a pretty good deal.


The Ridgid combo kit is a pretty decent machine. There are several good routers in that general price range, Hitachi, Bosch, deWalt, Milwaukee and Porter Cable to name a few.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

I have the Bosch 1617EVS Fixed/Plunge combo. It's variable speed, comes with 1/4 and 1/2 collets and can be accessorized to accept any number of template guides easily enough. 

I know you're looking at PC but Bosch is worth a look too.


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

I have the PC 893 plunge router with 2.25 HP, it comes with a fixed base as well, but I don’t ever use it. I also run a PC 7518 3.25 HP in my router table. It gives me great power in even deep cuts and I just got sick of always having to pull the router out of the table. A plunge base is great for versatility; I would suggest you go with a plunge base if you are you only need one router. One of these days, I will pick up a small palm router for detailed work. That is one drawback of the PC routers; they are heavy and a little cumbersome.


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## ashley1284 (Jun 4, 2013)

*Pc893*

I was thinking of buying the PC893PK but I see your comment about having to lift it out of the table. Is this in order to access the spindle locking pin in order to change bits? I definitely don't want to have to deal with that. I am also looking at the Jessem mastr lift excel table and I'm wondering if I can get the body of the router lifted high enough (using that table) to be able to access the locking pin from the top-side. Any advice ?


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