# Kitchen cabinets with Lacquer



## Mia (Jun 22, 2010)

Hi All,

I live in California. I had my kitchen cabinets redone about 7 years ago. I kept the original cabinets, they were solid oak cases, and had them resurfaced with maple veneer. I also had several cabinets built new to add to the kitchen. All doors were new. The cabinet finisher used a Lacquer. In all areas where it has come in contact with moisture, the finish is shot. The wood is exposed on the top rails of the doors and other common moisture areas. I have read that I can not use a WB poly over lacquer. (off the manufacture site) I read that it wont adhere to the under finish even with sanding etc. I know I have to be very careful with the veneer on the old cabinets.

What products do you suggest? Any secret methods I can employ?

The cabinet doors have ridges and grooves similar to a bead board. I'm very concerned about the product pooling in those grooves. I can try to take a picture and attach it if that would help.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Mia said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I live in California. I had my kitchen cabinets redone about 7 years ago. I kept the original cabinets, they were solid oak cases, and had them resurfaced with maple veneer. I also had several cabinets built new to add to the kitchen. All doors were new. The cabinet finisher used a Lacquer. In all areas where it has come in contact with moisture, the finish is shot. The wood is exposed on the top rails of the doors and other common moisture areas. I have read that I can not use a WB poly over lacquer. (off the manufacture site) I read that it wont adhere to the under finish even with sanding etc. I know I have to be very careful with the veneer on the old cabinets.
> 
> ...



*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

Your easiest and best finish IMO, would be to do needed repairs, light sanding, and spray lacquer.


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## Mia (Jun 22, 2010)

Spray Lacquer as in a spray can by minwax? I do not have access to spray equipment. Also as I mentioned I live in calif. so the low voc rules apply. I do not have all products avail. I looked at the waterlox product but have to spend almost 100$ a gallon to get the low voc formula...

Can you suggest a specific product?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could use a brushing lacquer if you can get it. Or, a wipe on oil base polyurethane, or a wipe on oil base interior varnish.


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## ash123 (Mar 14, 2010)

Mia said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I live in California. I had my kitchen cabinets redone about 7 years ago. I kept the original cabinets, they were solid oak cases, and had them resurfaced with maple veneer. I also had several cabinets built new to add to the kitchen. All doors were new. The cabinet finisher used a Lacquer. In all areas where it has come in contact with moisture, the finish is shot. The wood is exposed on the top rails of the doors and other common moisture areas. I have read that I can not use a WB poly over lacquer. (off the manufacture site) I read that it wont adhere to the under finish even with sanding etc. I know I have to be very careful with the veneer on the old cabinets.
> 
> ...


 
Years ago I used nitrocellulose lacquer on kitchens but it didn't do well. Later I used Sherwin Williams moisture resistant lacquer and that did better. It falls down and after three years it's looking not as nice as new. Then Roger and Ted at Gemini came out with Apollo. It's a nitrocellulose base with a polyurethane resin that converts to a poly in 30 days. The same finish sprayed over it after it starts to cure will lift it. Apollo was wonderful. It did good with water, cold shock, and hold up, but it didn't have the uv blockers in it and it yellowed over time.

Now we have the catalized and the pre-catalized lacquers. They stand up to water and chemicals, have the uv blockers, and hold up well over time. They can be brittle and have a tendency to fracture on glue joints due to seasonal movement. 

Your finish is a bad finish. All the doors and drawer fronts probably need to be taken to a shop and repaired and then all overcoated with something really good. Like the best finish in the world. Find the best painter in your area and hire him after you do your homework by checking references. This time know what the painter is using and make sure it's the best finish on the planet for high moisture areas.


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## Mia (Jun 22, 2010)

ash123 said:


> Years ago I used nitrocellulose lacquer on kitchens but it didn't do well. Later I used Sherwin Williams moisture resistant lacquer and that did better. It falls down and after three years it's looking not as nice as new. Then Roger and Ted at Gemini came out with Apollo. It's a nitrocellulose base with a polyurethane resin that converts to a poly in 30 days. The same finish sprayed over it after it starts to cure will lift it. Apollo was wonderful. It did good with water, cold shock, and hold up, but it didn't have the uv blockers in it and it yellowed over time.
> 
> Now we have the catalized and the pre-catalized lacquers. They stand up to water and chemicals, have the uv blockers, and hold up well over time. They can be brittle and have a tendency to fracture on glue joints due to seasonal movement.
> 
> Your finish is a bad finish. All the doors and drawer fronts probably need to be taken to a shop and repaired and then all overcoated with something really good. Like the best finish in the world. Find the best painter in your area and hire him after you do your homework by checking references. This time know what the painter is using and make sure it's the best finish on the planet for high moisture areas.


 
I appreciate the information and definately would take your advice and have a professional take care of it, if I could afford it. I have to do something to the exposed wood, I cant afford to "have" it done. I asked the question here on the forum to get advice on which products would be compatible for the lacquer that is currently on them. Please do not assume because I am female that I could not possibly handle this job. The one thing I lack is a spray booth. I have refinished furniture in the past. I was afraid of stripping the lacquer because of the thinness of the veneer. I spent over 15 years building spec houses with my father and worked on several remodel jobs with him. I hang tile as a side job. I can do this I just do not know the products. If anyone has an opinion on which product to use I would appreciate it. 

Thanks very much :thumbsup:


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I think a WB product will work over the lacquer. The trick is to make sure the cabinets are VERY clean, wash with TSP and then VM&P Naptha. Sand to rough up the surface (this is the ONLY thing that is going to create adhesion of your finish) with 220 grit sandpaper. Seal everything with de-waxed shellac ( Zinsser seal kote will work if you don't know how to make your own) For a WB topcoat in a kitchen I would use Target Coatings Super Clear 9000 
Target also makes a WB shellac. Jeff Weiss from Target coatings could probably help you and they also have a forum on their site to answer questions. This is NOT the best way to do this but it will work. Kitchens require a very good finish as you have found out and this is at best a chemical cocktail. I also would do a sample on the back or a door before tackling the entire job.


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