# Door inset trim



## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

I have 6 doors im my house. I'm half way though the 6 and have decided that stripping is not worth it. I plant to cut THIN pine down, 45 it or whatever it needs, and glue onto kerfs. Question is, what kind of glue do you recommend? I'm sure i will end up building 45 frame pieces to apply equal pressure across areas.


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

I have 6 wooden doors in my house, rather than buy new I am stripping and refinishing. Halfway through I decided that the interior trim is a waste of time to refinish, I would rather apply a flat angle on top of the route. My question is what glue/filler to use??? I will most likely build 45 angles to apply a little pressure when gluing. The face will b made with thin pine and I will custom fit at angles.

I will try and attach pics, im new here and not sure how this site works...no success...I deleted the pics from my phone.

I will ask what is WRONG with this site?! I have hd to retype multiple words to get correct spelling in there, apply is apple and kerf is kern! Aggravating! I would say it's my phone but I have not had this issue before.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Spell checking is generally not part of any site. It is usually controlled by the device being used. 

A sketch of what you are trying to describe would be very useful I cannot picture in my mind just what it is that you describe.

gmc


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## KI5AAI (Nov 4, 2021)

I read the post several times and I can't picture what is trying to be accomplished. A sketch would be fine like George said if you don't have the pics anymore.

As far as the website, I have never seen the website do autocorrect.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

It happens on my Ipad.


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

I don't understand your question. Can you elaborate and maybe include a sketch of what you are trying to do?
Having asked that, probably most any yellow or white PVA glue will work on wood in an interior environment.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

alecia.dooley said:


> I have 6 doors im my house. I'm half way though the 6 and have decided that stripping is not worth it. I plant to cut THIN pine down, 45 it or whatever it needs, and glue onto kerfs. Question is, what kind of glue do you recommend? I'm sure i will end up building 45 frame pieces to apply equal pressure across areas.



Do you have pictures of what your trying to do or the area your trying to trim?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

This is a duplicate post on the same subject.

G


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

GeorgeC said:


> This is a duplicate post on the same subject.
> 
> G



Yes! I didn't know the first 1 took and now I don't know how to delete!


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

Here are some pictures. I work nights and this is the first thing I did!


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

Rebelwork said:


> Do you have pictures of what your trying to do or the area your trying to trim?



















































Here you go! I will rip the pieces down of course...that is just a scap piece i grabbed to see if it would fit. I


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

So your trying to cover the inside door trim?


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

Exactly


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

So you intend to cut enough off to leave it proud with a profile?

Alecia.... I think once everyone is following what your trying to accomplish, they will start making suggestions..


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Alecia.... Are you trying to give an old door an "Applied molding" look?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> So your trying to cover the inside door trim?





alecia.dooley said:


> Exactly


Rather than cover that sloped detail, I'd use my router and a straight bit to remove it. You'll need a guide to keep it straight but that can be done pretty easily. Then apply a new molding of your choice.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Alicia, yes you can do what you’re talking about, you just have to lower the profile and overlap IOW not so much wood, something like a 1x2.

You can rout a similar profile in it if you wanted.

Routing off the profile is a bad idea IMO b/c it might expose too much of the groove.


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

woodnthings said:


> Rather than cover that sloped detail, I'd use my router and a straight bit to remove it. You'll need a guide to keep it straight but that can be done pretty easily. Then apply a new molding of your choice.



Hhhhmmmmmm, I agree, use my plunge router....or maybe my trim if i have a big enough bit. Have to think!


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

DrRobert said:


> Alicia, yes you can do what you’re talking about, you just have to lower the profile and overlap IOW not so much wood, something like a 1x2.
> 
> You can rout a similar profile in it if you wanted.
> 
> Routing off the profile is a bad idea IMO b/c it might expose too much of the groove.


 I hear you on the routing might not be the way to go.

Of course the wood will be ripped down, that is just a scrap thin piece i grabbed to visualize the idea.

I am mainly concerned with the glue. The trim will be painted but the door will only be varnished, so i want it NOT to show at all! Hence the 45D pressure piece to hold the length in place. AND when I do that i will do the vert pieces, then the horz ones. IOW? I know IMO...


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

Rebelwork said:


> So you intend to cut enough off to leave it proud with a profile?
> 
> Alecia.... I think once everyone is following what your trying to accomplish, they will start making suggestions..


no if proud means stick out, the face will be flush


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

yomanbill said:


> I don't understand your question. Can you elaborate and maybe include a sketch of what you are trying to do?
> Having asked that, probably most any yellow or white PVA glue will work on wood in an interior environment.


pics added


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

GeorgeC said:


> Spell checking is generally not part of any site. It is usually controlled by the device being used.
> 
> A sketch of what you are trying to describe would be very useful I cannot picture in my mind just what it is that you describe.
> 
> gmc


 pics added


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

KI5AAI said:


> I read the post several times and I can't picture what is trying to be accomplished. A sketch would be fine like George said if you don't have the pics anymore.
> 
> As far as the website, I have never seen the website do autocorrect.


 pics added


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

DrRobert said:


> It happens on my Ipad.


Flipping apple! this is an adroid phone. IT is VERY unlikely that I have NEVER used the word angle before...kerf i get but angle, c'mon!!! Technology is NOT as great as we think it is!


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## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

If you lay a strip of molding directly on the the painted stepped profile, I think you are risking the failure of any glue to properly adhere to the paint. Also, the gaps created by the steps will not allow good contact. I believe you have two choices: Use a 45 deg router bit to trim off most of the stepped profile and expose some fresh wood for most any PVA (Titebond or similar) to stick to, or nail your new trim pieces on. If you are going to paint them, the second option should work just fine if you use small finish nails (brads). This assumes that I correctly understand what you are trying to do.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Be careful using a router..


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

alecia.dooley said:


> I hear you on the routing might not be the way to go.
> 
> Of course the wood will be ripped down, that is just a scrap thin piece i grabbed to visualize the idea.
> 
> I am mainly concerned with the glue. The trim will be painted but the door will only be varnished, so i want it NOT to show at all! Hence the 45D pressure piece to hold the length in place. AND when I do that i will do the vert pieces, then the horz ones. IOW? I know IMO...


A little glue goes a long way. Most people have a tendency to over glue out of fear of the bond not holding. If the piece is going to be stained I would stain it before adding the trim. You do not have to poly it at this point. This will remove any chance of the glue interfering with the staining. It appears you will have sufficient bare wood on wood. It looks like the process of applying the pieces may take a bit of time, so I would recommend Titebond Extend. It is a regular aliphatic resin wood glue, same as regular Titebond but gives you extended working time. Your other option would be an Epoxy glue. I would recommend West System with a slow set hardener, but the Titebond Extend is about 1/4 the price of epoxy. If you have access to a micro pinner (23 gauge), that would speed the process and save you clamping without visually having nail holes.


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

yomanbill said:


> If you lay a strip of molding directly on the the painted stepped profile, I think you are risking the failure of any glue to properly adhere to the paint. Also, the gaps created by the steps will not allow good contact. I believe you have two choices: Use a 45 deg router bit to trim off most of the stepped profile and expose some fresh wood for most any PVA (Titebond or similar) to stick to, or nail your new trim pieces on. If you are going to paint them, the second option should work just fine if you use small finish nails (brads). This assumes that I correctly understand what you are trying to do.


Sounds like u understand!


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

B Coll said:


> A little glue goes a long way. Most people have a tendency to over glue out of fear of the bond not holding. If the piece is going to be stained I would stain it before adding the trim. You do not have to poly it at this point. This will remove any chance of the glue interfering with the staining. It appears you will have sufficient bare wood on wood. It looks like the process of applying the pieces may take a bit of time, so I would recommend Titebond Extend. It is a regular aliphatic resin wood glue, same as regular Titebond but gives you extended working time. Your other option would be an Epoxy glue. I would recommend West System with a slow set hardener, but the Titebond Extend is about 1/4 the price of epoxy. If you have access to a micro pinner (23 gauge), that would speed the process and save you clamping without visually having nail holes.


I will look into it thanks! You guys are great!


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## Jar944_2 (Oct 30, 2020)

Stripping the original moulding will be a lot easier than getting that to work and look right/good.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Jar944_2 said:


> Stripping the original moulding will be a lot easier than getting that to work and look right/good.


I think in the long run it would be better.


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

Rebelwork said:


> I think in the long run it would be better.













Rebelwork said:


> I think in the long run it would be better.


These r two I already cleaned. They need cleaned better in some areas but in other areas there is dust. Drywall dust too and that will eventually be done. But I will be making custom trim at 45s also. I am going to give it a try on the bedroom door. We will see!


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

alecia.dooley said:


> View attachment 434984
> 
> 
> These r two I already cleaned. They need cleaned better in some areas but in other areas there is dust. Drywall dust too and that will eventually be done. But I will be making custom trim at 45s also. I am going to give it a try on the bedroom door. We will see!


Custom floor trim


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

Rebelwork said:


> I think in the long run it would be better.


Those are old doors, very common in the 40s-50's. I still have that shaper profile in cope and stick from doing restorations.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

If you do not have one, this set may help you when stripping the profiles.









Quick Release Contour Scraper with 6 Blades & 12 Contoured Profiles


Scrape moldings, chair rails, stair spindles, door and window casings with one of 6-blades or 12 scraping contours.Hyde 14050




www.mcfeelys.com


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## alecia.dooley (12 mo ago)

I may have figured out how to cut these down!


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