# Help me figure out how to build this bed



## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

I hope I'm not asking too many questions on too many projects since I'm new here. But I've got a list of stuff to be built for my master bedroom. One closet organizer is done, still trying to figure out how to do the closet doors, and I haven't even looked in to the nightstands I plan to build yet. 

BUT, now that one closet has been organized, it gave us the space to get rid of two dressers and the next project is the bed. I had a general idea in mind. It's very simple. And then once I joined this forum, I found this thread that links to almost exactly the bed we want. But I have one small change to make to it that I've not figured out how I'm going to overcome yet.

My wife and I have had our bed on an incline for nearly a decade, and we really prefer it that way. It's part of the reason why we are more interested in custom building than buying something. We're tired of the 4x4 blocks we have under the bed. 

If I were building it flat, then I wouldn't have any problem. But building it with the incline in it is making it a bit tougher for me to envision. I'd like for the incline to be built in to the base. But that means I have to determine the best stock to use. If I were gong flat, I'd use 2x12's. But with more than 3" incline over the length of the bed, I'm afraid I'd have to cut it down too short. I'm not sure I'm a fan of building a riser that attaches to the top of a 2x12 either though. The base is the biggest issue in my mind a this point.

Also, the actual platform likely needs to have some form of cleat, or recession for the mattress to hold on to. 

If anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them.

I threw together a very quick and dirty, and not to scale sketchup of what I want. Here's the 2D export:








and the sketchup file:
View attachment bed.skp


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

*Re-over*

Since this doesn't seem to be getting any kind of response or interest, let me pose a different question, but one that is related to this design. 

If I was building this to be flat, I would just simply use some 2x12's to build my base (I want the height) and then make a platform out of plywood and trim it out with some stained oak or something. But we like the inclined matress, so I'm trying to figure out how to get that. The easiest solution would probably be to cut the 2x12's to the angle. But I think what I'd rather do is to add a 2x4 to the tops of them and cut the angle there. But if I build out the box, it will have to have the center supports in it as well. how can I rip several 2x6's at the same angle easily? I want them to be full width at one end and 1 1/2" at the other. But about 76" long. I can't think of anyway easy to do it with any kind of form. At best I'd have to free hand them, but I'm not a fan of that idea.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

I would use plywood for the base, too.

I can see it in my head, easy as pie, hopefully I can articulate it.

You know the pattern. Cut it out of some oak, or what have you, 3/4 inch ply. Rabbit the corners, dado for a mid-span support. Cut more ply to fit lower than your outside frame to inset the mattress a bit.

Glue and nail/staple, glue and nail/staple. Hide as many of these as you can. Use any 1x for cross members, and nail those to your inset pieces.

Rip some wood to cover any end-grain showing.

I have it in my head, but would need specific questions to answer you better. Let me know.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

MitchelWB said:


> If I was building this to be flat, I would just simply use some 2x12's to build my base (I want the height) and then make a platform out of plywood and trim it out with some stained oak or something. But we like the inclined matress, so I'm trying to figure out how to get that. The easiest solution would probably be to cut the 2x12's to the angle.



You don't need 2x12's. You can do the tapered base out of ¾" Oak plywood (if you want Oak). For where you lay out the cross supports, do a take off from the sides of the base (for height and angle).












 





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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

I have a question. You appear to have a large, solid piece of wood at the top edge of the mattress. Is this really a hunk of wood right there at your head?


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

Maybe I have a tendency to overbuild. We are planning to get a tempurpedic matress. They come with a great warranty, but there is a clause in there that lets them out if they don't feel the matress has been supported well enough. Those things aren't cheap, so I'm definitely leaning towards something that is solid to put it on.

I did consider using 3/4" ply as my outter shell. it would definitely make it easier to cut. I was more concerned about the integrity.

My thought/intention was to build two similar boxes each about the size of a twin box spring, and two seperate platforms out of ply and trimmed out. The boxes would be small enough that they could be moved without dismantling them, and the platform would be the same way. I don't know how much you guys use sketchup at all, but I've attached another .skp file that shows each part of the process individually as well as a 2d view of it all.









I welcome any criticism. I'm fully confident I could build something that works and suits my need on my own. I'm also pretty positive you guys can offer a LOT of advice to make it better, faster, stronger and maybe even cheaper.

View attachment bed final.skp


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

3/4 ply will be more than strong enough. I would just build an outer frame from 3/4 ply with 1x4 or 2x4's going side to side spaced evenly apart similiar to a futon frame. If you are worried about the middle sagging just run the 2x4's on edge instead of flat.


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

*Another try*

Hmm... I just spent an hour doing another design in sketchup that I definitely like better than my first go. And then when I came here to post it, I re-read your suggestion and realized what I designed isn't what you suggested at all.

But take a look anyway. I really appreciate any/all help.









I only attached one pic, and it shows both left and right sides butted up against each other. I also attached the sketchup file if you want to nose around in it. It's not the cleanest drawing, but it does work.

I even considered, if I wanted to lighten it up some, I could also use joist hangers instead of building the lower portion of the center frames in each half. 

View attachment newBed.skp


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

One suggestion I might make is to redesign the whole thing to sit on a four or five inch recessed pedestal. You will suffer many a banged toe with the sides running straight down to the floor like that, trust me.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

If legs and a fabric skirt are an option, I'll take some pics of the rock solid never-squeaking design we used. It would be easy to modify for an incline.


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

Willie: technically, that pedestal is going to be recessed. the bed will be on a platform that will over hang it. I'm just trying to figure out how to do the base right now. Check my previous posts in the thread to see what I'm talking about.

Steve: We went and walked around the furniture places to get an idea what we wanted. I really didn't care much one way or the other whether it was on legs or a pedestal. My wife is the one wanting the pedestal.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

I wouldn't use a solid sheet on top, mattresses like to breath. I have a temperpedic knock-off, that was much cheaper, and works just fine. My frame goes all the way around. The mattress sits inside a couple inches. Span supports run from head to toe, then I have 1x6 running side to side, on the flat, with about 2" space between them. Plenty of support. Also remember that 3/4" plywood used in cabinets holds up granite, concrete, butcher-block, and marble counter-tops all the time, not to mention any dishes, pots and pans, and sometimes people changing lightbulbs. Sinks full of water.:laughing: Not strong enough?


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

fromthehills: That is a very fine point on the 3/4 ply holding up a lot of weight. As for the surface, here's a copy/paste from the tempurpedic site:



> Tempur-Pedic® mattresses are designed to work on a firm, solid-surface, non-spring foundation or adjustable bed base that is structurally capable of supporting the weight of purchaser's Tempur-Pedic mattress.


That doesn't specifically state a smooth surface or no slats, but the sales lady at the store told us that. Normal spring mattresses definitely need to breathe, the Tempurpedics I don't think need it so much. I'm certainly no expert on them, but that's my understanding.

But I guess I'm not 100% positive how to build it like I think you're suggesting. I'm certainly interested in how it would be done, but I've not done much work with ply.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

I wish I had time to try to figure out sketch up right now, I'd draw it for you. The design popped into my head reading your first post, and my wife has been begging me for a bed with drawers underneath, which I could incorporate. I have a good vision of things, but very little skill in explaining it, or drawing it.

But I gotta get off my butt, and finish framing these stairs I have to set this morning.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Here's a very rough sketch. Sorry for my lack of sketch up skill. It started doing things I didn't want to do.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Any way. Sides cans be shorter, you could do solid surface, or slats. Tilt it. On the tilt, insetting the mattress a little would keep it from sliding. My idea is to build some slides for drawers under the slats, then all the extra blankets and sheets won't be driving me out of my closet. 

Or put more mid span supports if you don't think one's enough.


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

I fully understand sketchup suddenly deciding to do something you weren't expecting. I only started using it a few weeks ago myself, so my drawings are still fairly simple for sure. 







This bed is the basic style I'm going after, but I am also looking to do it a bit more modular so that it can break down in to a few pieces that can be moved up and down the stairs if necessary. And it will be necessary if I don't want to build it in place in the bedroom.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

I saw a plan for that bed, somewhere, a couple years ago. I'd be hard pressed to find it, but I'll look.


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

any kind of plans would be awesome. I'm hoping to start on this this weekend. If I've not found anything better, then I'll be going the 2x4 route. Overkill? maybe, but as of right now, it's the best plan I have.

If you can throw down some kind of rough sketch, even just pencil and paper that I can see, I'll try to convert it to sketchup to get a better idea.


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

*one more try*

here's another idea. It's less material, but I assume it would still be fairly strong. Considering it will have a 3/4" ply sheet laid over top of it before the bed goes on. I'm not as big of a fan of the east west supports instead of the north south of my previous design. Plus, this one isn't made so that it can be done as two seperate individual boxes. I could probably modify it to be that way, but I was just throwing the file together.

This one is made of ply and 2x4's with 1x2 cleats on the inside of the left and right sides. 

Anyway, I keep trying. :blink: Image and sketchup files attached.









View attachment plybed.skp


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

MitchelWB said:


> here's another idea. It's less material, but I assume it would still be fairly strong. Considering it will have a 3/4" ply sheet laid over top of it before the bed goes on. I'm not as big of a fan of the east west supports instead of the north south of my previous design. Plus, this one isn't made so that it can be done as two seperate individual boxes. I could probably modify it to be that way, but I was just throwing the file together.
> 
> This one is made of ply and 2x4's with 1x2 cleats on the inside of the left and right sides.
> 
> ...


Fine if you never intend to do anything the least bit athletic in bed. That design is just waiting for the top part to collapse.


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## MitchelWB (Sep 2, 2010)

Willie, are you suggesting something other than sleeping?

At this point, I'm still leaning towards my 2x4 design. Maybe it's overkill. Maybe there's other ways to do it, but it should be more than solid enough to handle any sporting events. And should be fairly easy to productionalize since it's essentially just the same thing 6 times.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

It won't collapse, even with heavy use. . It's not much different, in concept, than my current bed. Especially if you dado for the mid-span support.

At this rate, Mitchel, we might be building ours at the same time. I'm finishing up two big projects, then I'm sure my wife will put me to work on a bed. She doesn't like seeing me sit down for a minute.


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

You do realize I am talking about lateral folding collapse, not weight carrying capabilities? You have three points of contact up at the top on 3/4" x 11" legs that are not braced nor angularly supported at all. Even sliding the bed sideways on carpet could begin to compromise those plywood joints.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

I know exactly what you're talking about. I don't slide my bed on carpet, I still think that if it were joined, glued and fastened well, it would hold up to scooting it around. A guy could easily add corner reinforcement, or cross bracing, if he saw the need. The sketch isn't a stone tablet.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

My wife said I could dismantle our "cosleeper" and I took pics to help me put it back together. [Cosleeping is controversial, but let's not get into that on this forum] Since I was shooting pics in the bedroom anyway, I snapped a few of the legs that make my 2x4 framed platform rock solid. You could easily tilt the 2x2 ledger on the side to make the incline, and hang whatever faces you wanted between the legs. The ledgers are under the overhang and out of sight unless you're on hands and knees. *It's the legs that make it work and that I mean to show here. *It's a bit confusing since I have two tops. The original 2x4 platform was for when I had a "full" size mattress, but later I upgraded to a queen, and just built a plywood and 1x3 extension for the original platform. Then I got married. There is no
noticeable deflection in the bed, nothing ever wobbles squeaks or bumps. You know how they say if you have no basement you should get under sturdy furniture in a tornado? In my prior house, this was it.























What's a cosleeper you say? That was mighty nice, since we chose to breastfeed for a long time, and this child was born in winter. (Had to put snow chains on the car when my wife went into labor!)








Sigh. They grow up too fast. Anyway, maybe you'll see something useful in above ramble.

SteveEl


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