# Jumpin Jesus on a Pogo Stick - That was scary!



## Porphyre (Jan 5, 2011)

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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Well,glad you didn't get "bit".........but gotta ask.Are you cutting the little spaces on feather bd with a TS?The reason I ask is because we just make them on a BS,so that the relief cuts are square(and thinner kerf'd)....IOW's,because of TS's circular blade....just don't see that working all to well?But,may've misunderstood your procedure.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*same here*

usin' a bandsaw for the slots. You can keep your left hand in your pocket and still make most cuts on the table saw. :yes: bill

Unless of course you have a right tilt saw and are left handed and right eye dominant.....


And never reach *behind* a spinning blade to retrieve anything.


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## Porphyre (Jan 5, 2011)

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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*and furthermore...*

If you do reach behind the blade to retrieve something... 1 of 3 things can happen;
1.nothing 
2. you may lose your grasp on it and it will fall onto the spinning blade which will then project it forward at about 118 MPH into your body 
3. after you've dropped it, instinct will take over and you will be inclined to reach for it again and that's when Bad Things Will Happen :furious: :yes:

Therefore don't ever do it. Paint your throat plate RED if it isn't already, and try to keep your hands from entering the Red Zone!
It ain't always practical especially when ripping, but if that's the general rule it will serve you well. Yeah, I break my own self imposed rules occasionally. :blink: bill


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Porphyre,"Rustbelt" is a tad bit vague,haha.So,we're gonna be needing a little better directions.What size are you interested in?If a 10 or 12 will work.....and they do great on contour work,givin a quality blade and some TLC on a tuneup......they can be had for beer money.

Stepping up to 14's,16's it gets a little more convoluted....because they're in such hi demand......but can be had for beer money + maybe dinner for two.

Needing a 20?Alright then...now we can do some sawin,haha."Seen" one go to the dump a few weeks ago.Needed bearings and sheet metal work....nuthin a torch,a 2x4,and a 3# hammer would'nt fix though.These usually are what the PO's "might" consider wore out?Being much more the..glass is half-full type,I see them as workhorses just looking for a new home.This one would've been considerably less than scrap value.......seeing as someone could put it to good use.With a decent story might've got it for free.

Anything bigger and its prolly an old babbit bearing,no gaurds whatsoever.....oldster.Not really my cup of tea,but they can be dirt cheap.BW


Edit:took just about 4 minutes........dang,getting slow.......found a "broken" 24" for 100 bucks.The only other one I'd consider was a 30$,12"...but you'd have to really do some fabricating(not that's to big of a problem?)on that one.Oh,both needed tyres.......but hey,seen folks use masking tape and/or old bicycle rubber glued on.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Rip your feather board to width first. Then lay it on the table saw/machine in the position that you will be using it and which allows the best clamping, you should have two good strong clamps on it. Next mark the angle parallel to the blade on the end of the feather board and cut it. When you cut the slots for the fingers, start on the outside edge not the edge closest to the fence.That way you will always have solid, uncut board against the fence. Each successive cut will move the fence toward the blade, not away from it. Going the other way will mean what you have previously cut will be flexible and could get you in trouble. I like 1/8" fingers about 5" long. They will flex enough to accommodate slight variances in width. They will also hold the board tightly without forcing pressure on the fence and the flexibility will prevent the work from backing up. Circular saw blades leave about 1/8" between fingers which adds the flexibility you don't get with a bandsaw kerf. You should be able to strum the fingers and have the tips move fairly easily but still be firm.


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## wood player (Jan 21, 2011)

never ever reach behind a saw blade to pull work through. I tried it when I was an ignorant and ill informed kid of 13. Was pulled into the blade backwards and ended up with over a hundred stiches in my four fingers. That young Dr. sewed them all back together and set the joint and tied the tendon back together in his office (didn't use ER and special surgeons in those days) am blessed to have full use of thoes fingers. ALWAYS properly train young people before allowing them to use power equipment


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## ShaneLyall (Jan 12, 2010)

NEVER reach past a blade for ANY reason. I had to learn my lesson the hard way a few years ago. I cut the "pad" as the doctor called it off my thumb. On the bright side, If I ever decide I don't wan't to do woodworking I'm perfect for a life of crime with no print on that thumb! It healed up well and I still have good use of it but I learned a lesson that day. I use my riving knife and guard on every cut possible.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I think that the original poster has left us and taken his words with him.

George


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