# Ridgid R4512 Zero Clearance Insert



## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I know that there are a lot of ZCI how-to's out there, but I haven't been able to find one for this particular saw. I figured I'd give it a shot and document the process for those who want to do the same!

To the veterans that happen to be reading this, please tell me if I need to correct anything in my method of making these. There were a couple of instances where I thought there was probably a better, or safer way to accomplish a task, but I couldn't come up with anything.

DISCLAIMER: This is how I made my inserts. I am not saying that this is the only way to go about this, or that this is even the safest way of doing it. If you have doubts about the safety of a particular step, feel free to develop a better method, and please share it in this thread!


I started by tracing the outline of my Leecraft ZCI (however the stock insert will work just the same) onto a piece of 3/4" MDF scrap.








The scrap was wide enough for two so I traced another one on there as well. I then went to the bandsaw and cut out each piece.








Be sure to cut outside of the line. We will be trimming it flush with the router later.








I then took 3 small strips of double sided carpet tape (found in the carpet section at the big box stores) and applied them to the insert. The tape is a little expensive, but a little goes a long way, and this stuff is very handy around the shop.








Then, carefully place the stock insert piece onto the new one, making sure there is enough wood all the way around the edges to trim flush.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

*Routing*

For trimming it flush, I used my flush trim bit... imagine that.








After chucking it up in my router, I installed the router in my "router table". Being able to mount the router makes this step much easier and safer. All mine consists of is a piece of 3/4" ply with the fixed base of my router attached to it.








Take your time when trimming the pieces flush. Use push blocks and pay attention to which direction you are feeding the work piece. This could easily turn into a ZCI missile if you aren't careful! Here you can see how much material the bit is taking off. I often go around a few times to make sure I get everything as flush as possible.








After you are done trimming, I've found using a putty knife is the best way to detach the pieces from each other. The carpet tape has a very strong hold, and you could potentially damage the edges of the work piece if you try to pry it apart with a screwdriver or the like.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

*Clearancing*

This is where I wasn't to sure about safety. In order to make room for the blade, a groove is needed in the middle of the insert. As you can see in the picture, I set my fence about 1 3/4" from the outside of the bit to put it in the right location.








I was using a 1/2" straight bit, and gradually plunged the piece down as I was feeding it across the bit. In hindsight, this operation would have been safer if I had been using my spiral upcutting bit. I probably should have even taken the router out of the table, and used the plunge base to do this from above. I don't recommend doing it the way I did. The bit had a tendency to try and grab the material, which made this a little sketchier than I prefer.

Use the stock insert piece, and trace the location of the opening for the blade onto the new piece. This is only a groove, and won't be going through the top so the length isn't a big deal. You just want it long enough to clear the blade on either end when installing it initially.







As you can see in the picture above, The slot has been cut, and I have the tab clearance location marked. I simply used the stock insert again and traced each hole location onto the new insert. Just make sure you have everything oriented correctly using the stock piece as a guide. The size of each clearance hole was roughly 3/4" x 3/4" with some of them needing a little fine tuning.

I determined the depth needed for each clearance location as follows.

Measure the width of the stock piece. As you can see it is 7/64"








I then used the calipers to scribe a line on the insert itself for a reference.








Next, using the same 1/2" bit on the router, I adjusted the height until it was right on the line.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

*Clearancing continued*

I then set my fence 3/4" from the outside of the bit.








After transferring my layout lines to the top of the work piece, I also made pencil marks on my fence showing the location of either side of the router bit. This way I could know where I was cutting when the work piece was covering the bit.








This is a picture of one of the clearance locations. I did this with push blocks, and multiple passes. Taking a little bit at a time, and going very slow to ensure the bit didn't grab the insert and send it flying. Again, it didn't feel as safe as I like, and I will most likely be making up some sort of jig to hold the pieces next time I make some.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

*Installing*

Once your slot is cut, and the clearance for the tabs has been done, the piece will need a screw in the back left corner. This will allow you to fine tune for a nice snug fit in the saw opening. To do this, you will need a small rabbit on the back side of the insert. I left the router bit at the same height throughout the entire project, and only changed the fence location. This made any slight modifications needed much easier to accomplish. I made the depth of the rabbit about 5/16".








All you need is for the head of the screw to go inside of the outside edge of your template.








Then, simply pre drill and install the screw in the back left corner. I used a 1" sheet rock screw, and it works fine.








When you go to put it in the saw for the first time, you will need to play around with the friction screw previously installed until the fit is snug. This will take very minor adjustments with a screw driver, but make sure the fit is as tight as possible without damaging the piece.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

*Making the cut*

Raising the blade through the slot is fairly easy. Just take your time, and make sure you have it secured before doing so. I move my fence over until it just covers the outside edge of the insert, making sure it won't be over top of where the blade will come out. Next, I personally like to clamp a piece of scrap over the other side, and cover where the blade will protrude. This can eliminate any possible tearout, and helps keep the insert firmly in place.








Then, just turn on your saw and slowly raise the blade to full height!
















I have a stiffener plate on my blade, which limits my max cut depth, but provides a much smoother cut.








I like to cycle the blade up and down a few times to make sure I have a nice smooth opening.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

*Label!*

Lastly, make sure to label each insert with the blade used and the angle of each.








As you can see by all of the markings and additional cuts on the "45 degree" insert, this process involved a bit of trial and error. I hope this thread will help reduce the "error" part of someone else's attempts.

Thanks,

Sean


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Nice write-up! I have the same saw and my lousy attempt at a ZCI was a piece of 1/4" MDF, which was not nearly stiff enough for non-through cuts on smaller stock. This is good inspiration!


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I have made several ZCI plates for my Craftsman and did pretty much exactly what you did to make them. Same process, different saw.
The one I made for the 45 is far uglier than yours as I was trying to make one insert to handle all the possible angle settings. In fact it is so very bad that I rarely use it. :laughing:

As for the cut outs for the screws, I've had good luck by simply routing a rabbit along the sides rather than trying for separate areas.

Nicely done though.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

sanchez said:


> Nice write-up! I have the same saw and my lousy attempt at a ZCI was a piece of 1/4" MDF, which was not nearly stiff enough for non-through cuts on smaller stock. This is good inspiration!


The most time consuming part was figuring out all of the dimensions needed. Now that you have them, you should be able to make several in just a couple hours!


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

johnnie52 said:


> I have made several ZCI plates for my Craftsman and did pretty much exactly what you did to make them. Same process, different saw.
> The one I made for the 45 is far uglier than yours as I was trying to make one insert to handle all the possible angle settings. In fact it is so very bad that I rarely use it. :laughing:
> 
> As for the cut outs for the screws, I've had good luck by simply routing a rabbit along the sides rather than trying for separate areas.
> ...


Thanks johnnie. I thought about doing that, but didn't know if it would effect the overall strength of the outside edges. Especially since it is MDF. They are so easy to make now that I might try that next time around!


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## tagwatts1 (May 17, 2013)

*Zeo Clearance*

_Captain Awesome,_
_I want to thank you for the informative material. I think you have done a masterful job of writing and picturing the this item. My only problem is, I am very new to wood working. I have the same exact saw you mentioned. So I am going to steal your information and put into my Woodworking Book, for future reference. Again, I think you have done a great job here. Thanks Tagwatts1:icon_smile:_


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## jonathan0908 (Jul 20, 2014)

It's nice...

__________________
jet 708315btc


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## tagwatts1 (May 17, 2013)

*zero clearance*

This looks everoy bit or better than the one I paid for. Great job to say the least. I may even give it a try. i have to say though you are a Craftoy Cratsman.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

I make mine almost the exact same way. Only difference is youre better at measuring than i am, so i have to use leveling screws


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## Mcetaco (Sep 13, 2014)

Thanks for the details in you're write up. Much obliged.??


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## Ezee (Dec 24, 2011)

Would you mind showing us your out feed table and how you attached it? Thanks!


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Ezee said:


> Would you mind showing us your out feed table and how you attached it? Thanks!


http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/my-ridgid-r4512-table-saw-outfeed-36414/


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