# Blade Alignment Jig



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I needed to check alignment on my new TS and I didnt want to spend 100 bucks on a jig to do it. I dont feel like I can get the accuracy I'm looking for with squares and straight edges so I started searching online for ideas. Took a couple ideas I found and modded them to work on my saw. This works amazingly well and was just made out of a couple pieces of scrap.


----------



## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Nice job!! Way to think outside the box my man. :thumbsup:


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Nice jig. Looks like it would work pretty good. A bit too scientific for me.












 







.


----------



## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

BassBlaster said:


> I needed to check alignment on my new TS and I didnt want to spend 100 bucks on a jig to do it. I dont feel like I can get the accuracy I'm looking for with squares and straight edges so I started searching online for ideas. Took a couple ideas I found and modded them to work on my saw. This works amazingly well and was just made out of a couple pieces of scrap.


Nice job The beall tillt box will get the blade 90 Degree's and other degree's that you need . But will not set blade to miter gage slot or frount to back. The beall tilt box you can set anything that to be set at a perfect 90 degree's and other's . Drill press table and band saw jointer fence setting's. Nice unit Here is a link http://www.google.com/search?q=beal...group&ct=image&resnum=3&sqi=2&ved=0CD8QzAMwAg http://www.ecrater.com/p/2052129/beall-tool-tilt-box-digital


----------



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

del...I have the igaging magnetic angle block and its freakin amazing!! I put it on the blade to test the 90 and 45 stops and to my surprise they read 00.00 and 45.00. I thought for sure they would be out a percentage of a degree but they were spot on. I love that little cube!!


----------



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Nice jig. Looks like it would work pretty good. A bit too scientific for me.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Thanks

I have seen you post numerous times about not speaking in thousands and likeing a simple setup. I'm just curious how you set your machines up. For example, my blade to slot is currently 6 thousands out. My understanding is it should be closer to 2 thousands. 6 thousands is the thickness of 2 sheets of paper. Maybe my eyes are worse than I thought but I cant see 6 thousands with a sqaure and straight edge. It looks pretty spot on if I check it that way. So...without scientific equipment, how are you adjusting to these tolerances? Just curious if I'm doing all this for nothing.


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Looks good,maybe try to get closer to table.Logic being,you're gttin closer to the cnt line of blade.....which spaces measurement out as far as possible.Good luck,BW


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

BassBlaster said:


> Thanks
> 
> I have seen you post numerous times about not speaking in thousands and likeing a simple setup. I'm just curious how you set your machines up.
> 
> So...without scientific equipment, how are you adjusting to these tolerances? Just curious if I'm doing all this for nothing.


I'm not knocking the use of gauges to get readings in the thousandths. If you feel you have the best setup as possible, that's all that really matters. I'm not one to urge beginners to go out and buy all the jigs, gauges, and equipment to do woodworking. In fact I'm really in the group that tries to do with what is at hand. That's the way it was in the beginning of my woodworking career. Besides there wasn't enough money starting up to splurge on stuff like that.

When I was used to cutting parts on a piece of plywood with a skil saw mounted underneath, most anything after that was an improvement. I think if a new saw is out of spec enough to affect the work, it needs to be adjusted. I can't quote statistics, but the brand new saws I have bought were pretty much dead on. I remember a method suggested in an owners manual back in the 70's that was confirmed by a couple of technicians that installed Delta saws at the time.

First to unplug the saw. Raise the blade all the way up. Pick a tooth and mark it. Rotate the blade to the front of the saw table. Measure from that tooth to the left miter slot. Then rotate the same tooth to the rear of the saw at the table and measure the same tooth to the miter slot. A similar measure would be to use the saw body instead of the tooth. 

Rotating the same marked tooth to the rear of the saw, mark another tooth at the front, and use that tooth (or saw body) to do the same measurement (it's a 180 degree check). If I experienced some inordinate burning or saw marks (from either the front of the blade or rear), that would be an indication that there was a problem. The sounds of cutting could also be a giveaway.

How close to a parallel setup may be that by my doing that check, that I was within whatever thousandth within spec. As for sawing accuracy, I guess my setups are close enough, as I very satisfied with the cuts I get, and the work comes out pretty good, IMO.












 







.


----------



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks and I'm not knocking your methods either. I want to learn whats best. Maybe this dial indicater thing is just making me way over think this whole deal. As I said, If I measure it the way you describe, everything looks perfect and I'm not getting any burn marks are saw marks. It seems to cut perfect. But...it is 6 thousands out and I'm told it should be closer to 2 thousands. My biggest issue is if I go down there and try to adjust it and get it further out of alignment and cant get it back. Again were talking 6 thousands here, the thickness of 2 sheets of paper. I sure cant measure that with a rule!!


----------



## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

I've been doing what C-man said, using this trick as the measuring tool, and some backligthing in a dark shop
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/use-bevel-blade-for-tablesaw-tuneup/

But now this thread has me curious how many 1000s it would take to tell a difference this way (and given my eyesight) so I'll have to rustle up some feeler guages.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

BassBlaster said:


> Thanks and I'm not knocking your methods either. I want to learn whats best. Maybe this dial indicater thing is just making me way over think this whole deal. As I said, If I measure it the way you describe, everything looks perfect and I'm not getting any burn marks are saw marks. It seems to cut perfect. But...it is 6 thousands out and I'm told it should be closer to 2 thousands. My biggest issue is if I go down there and try to adjust it and get it further out of alignment and cant get it back. Again were talking 6 thousands here, the thickness of 2 sheets of paper. I sure cant measure that with a rule!!


Here's the deal. I couldn't tell ya in thousandths what my blade is off. It may be within specs it may not be. But realistically, I can cut some lumber in the afternoon, and the next morning it's a different size. I'm not saying that has anything to do with the sawcut. That's just what wood can do.

Ok, here's another one. I can clamp up some wood and change its form by compression. Have I changed it from what I needed it to be originally? So, what I'm saying that in woodworking some differentials can be so minimal that they don't matter in the end. Or, some differentials get worked into the project by the mere advancement through the project. 












 







.


----------



## repeters (Dec 11, 2009)

I bought the TS Aligner Jr. when I was using my Craftsman contractor saw because I couldn't seem to get it square with the measure from tooth / rotate / tooth method. The TS wasn't cheap but it got the job done. Also, I was able to get a perfect 90 deg blade to table and jointer to fence also. I just did my new / old Unisaw and it too seems to cut easier and a cleaner noise when cutting through the wood.
I've also used it on quite a bit of my other tools with great results. Did I spend too much? I don't think so. Maybe I missed a few beers but I think the accuracy was worth it.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

BassBlaster said:


> Thanks
> 
> I have seen you post numerous times about not speaking in thousands and likeing a simple setup. I'm just curious how you set your machines up. For example, my blade to slot is currently 6 thousands out. My understanding is it should be closer to 2 thousands. 6 thousands is the thickness of 2 sheets of paper. Maybe my eyes are worse than I thought but I cant see 6 thousands with a sqaure and straight edge. It looks pretty spot on if I check it that way. So...without scientific equipment, how are you adjusting to these tolerances? Just curious if I'm doing all this for nothing.


In reality wood working does not need those type of tolerances. Yes, it is very nice and very satisfying if you can set your saw up very accurately.

However, in all practicability an engineers square set to the blade will provide all of the accuracy needed. Most cuts you will make will be in material that is only 3/4" thick. Your eyeball will never be able to tell any difference between the 00.002 and the in actuality 00.02 that you may get.

As far as aligning your blade to the fence it all comes down to the measurement that you make when setting the fence for the actual cut. What matters is the distance between the edge of the blade nearest the fence and the fence. You do not use a micrometer to make that measurement. You will generally use a steel (or wood) rule.

There are huge differences between the tolerances needed in metal machining and woodworking.

George


----------



## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Ripping hardwood with the same blade, is there much difference in the cuts surface smoothness, when the blade is .010" out of parallel instead of .002"? Is the difference enough to care? What I mean is, for some precision itself is fun or aesthetically pleasing... but does it actually save work before gluing or finishing?


----------



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I can tell you this much. I was able to get the blade to miter slot adjustment to .002 and the fence to blade adjustment to less than .001. My cuts are perfect. Absolutely zero work required after the cut to make a perfect glue joint!!


----------



## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

When machines are being manufactured, they are set up and aligned to a couple thousandths. Sometimes, less. The teeth on a blade are set to a thousandth. Every company has their own tolerances, some are better than others.

Say you cut two pieces of wood for joining...if you can't see light between them, you are dealing with a tolerance of 1 or 2 thousandths; whether you think or not. 

People are actually using very close tolerances, so no need to fear setting up your tools with a dial indicator, micrometer, or calipers.

The human finger can feel .001-.002 difference in surfaces, the eye can sense a few thousandths also.

Whatever makes you comfortable.:thumbsup:

I notice as I get older, I can't see that close, but the 'Feel' is still there. It's all about the surfaces....


----------



## repeters (Dec 11, 2009)

I agree whole heartedly about the age / sight thing. 
It was after I wasted a lot of time and wood trying to set up the old craftsman that made me decide to get the TS Jr. 
Now that the fence on the saw is also set with better tolerances, I haven't had any binding or kickback. 
And as I said before, you can hear the difference when the wood is going through the blade.
Everybody has their own methods of setting up their tools. I say, what ever does it for you.....:thumbsup:


----------

