# Rewiring my Dewalt Radial Arm Saw



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Hey Guys.....

So I recently picked up a dewalt radial arm saw....one of the old cast iron arm ones. Anyhow....So I was going to fire it up and try it out before I went through rewiring it.....but decided to pull it apart and take a look first. Glad I did...as the wiring is in TERRIBLE condition. Anyhow.....I'm pretty comfortable with wiring....but do have a few general questions....

1. The radial arm saw is one with the goofy key switch on the side of the arm......anyone ever move the switch to a paddle switch on the front? Seems it might be easier to use.....Thoughts???

2. Any particular type of wiring I should be using? The motor is a 14 amp motor......as my subpanel is just about full.....its going to have to run on 110.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> Hey Guys.....
> 
> So I recently picked up a dewalt radial arm saw....one of the old cast iron arm ones. Anyhow....So I was going to fire it up and try it out before I went through rewiring it.....but decided to pull it apart and take a look first. Glad I did...as the wiring is in TERRIBLE condition. Anyhow.....I'm pretty comfortable with wiring....but do have a few general questions....
> 
> ...


I'm not familar with the wiring on your Dewalt saw. There is no reason though you can't relocate the switch somewhere else with a different type switch. I have a Craftsman saw the switch wore out an I mounted a toggle switch under the saw to replace it. I just had to re-route the wires off the arm. With 14 amps I would use 12 gauge stranned wire to wire it.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I know I can make it work, just not sure if there's any reason I don't want to move the switch there 

Here was the condition of the wire in it....


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

Assuming you are referring solely to the wiring from the motor to the switch, 3 strand 14 ga or 12 ga would be fine. 

It appears it's just the jacket on that middle strand of yours that is bad. I assume everything inside the main jacket is fine so you could just address the exposed jacket issue and continue to use that same wire.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The wire from the wall to the motor is what I'm replacing. It's cracked in a few other places as we'll and is close to 50 years old.....I think the saw deserves some new copper...


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I've done several, it's not hard. It sound like you are replacing all of it. Without knowing what model that is: for the smaller motors (925, MBF, etc., the ones generally rated at 10 amps or less) I use 14 gauge wire. For the larger ones (1030, 1030K, etc.) I use 12 guage, although I'm sure 14 would be OK for those. The hard part is getting the cable clamp on the motor to accept it, that's why I prefer the 14. As for the switch, I'd suggest you try it where it is for a while before moving anything. I really don't see it as being that inconvenient, or unsafe (just my personal opinion). But I've seen several attempts at changing it, from putting a toggle switch on the top of the yoke handle to placing an entire handy box on the top end of the arm. They all look like chit and have wires stretching all over the place. I would suggest something about that keyed switch you have. I have one on one saw and reallt don't like the way it works. I intend (and suggest to you) that you replace it with a double pole, single throw (DPST) toggle switch. Have it break both lines in case you ever will be on 240V service. The GB switch I linked will fit right in exactly in place of the key switch (which may have some aftermarket value).

Edit to ad: you may want to go ahead and replace the bearings while it's dis assembled. It'a an easy job. The bearings will run about $20, you probably will need to have a way to pull them and put them back on. If that's a 925 or 1030K, they have a centrifugal brake that can be a little tedious when doing this, but still an easy job. BTW, if you want a coupe of PDF files to help with that saw, I can e-mail them.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

That would be great. It is a 1030. Can you send them to [email protected] 

Thanks. 

Ryan


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

E mail sent, let me know if it gets lost, I'll keep trying.


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> The wire from the wall to the motor is what I'm replacing. It's cracked in a few other places as we'll and is close to 50 years old.....I think the saw deserves some new copper...


Then 12ga (20a) to be safe; 14ga (15a) would probably be fine but the cost difference is negligible.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Fred....message received. Thanks. 

I was planning on 12 gauge, but I am concerned a bit about getting it through the clamp on the motor housing. The way that's designed it's a 90 degree angle in. 

Guess I'll see what Home Depot has by the foot.....maybe the outer diameter is a bit smaller than it was 50 years ago.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*ON 110 Volts*

http://www.stayonline.com/reference-circuit-ampacity.aspx

This chart shows No. 14 Ga wire with a capacity of 15 Amps.
If you were to change over to 220V you'll only need half that or 8 Amps. 
20 Amp switches are usually not that small, but they are available in double pole at the Home depot. I have used them for motors myself.
The other 110 or 220 V switches from Grizzly will also fit in a small outlet box, but probably not with 12 Ga.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I just did my 1030K (square arm version of the 1030) and I used #12. I can tell you it was a battle getting that clamp on, but not impossible. I also just redid a Frame 236 for a 925. That's an 11 amp motor, and I used #14, still a battle, but the clamp on that one is smaller than the one on the 1030. To get around that 90° corner, I bend the wire and then squeeze it in my wood vice. That way it holds it's shape for about 2 minutes while I try to get everything back into the hole on the motor.

BTW, should have mentioned this earlier, just thought of it. I have seen those saws fitted with a switch on the frame, then the wire from the switch just runs to the arm, inside the arm, and then to the motor. No switch at all on the arm. I still didn't like it but it was a lot cleaner than the other attempts I've seen.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I guess for now I'll keep the key switch and see how it is. If I was to do the switch, it wouldn't be mounted on the arm. That would look like junk.


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## Toolman2 (Jun 15, 2010)

ryan50hrl said:


> Fred....message received. Thanks.
> 
> I was planning on 12 gauge, but I am concerned a bit about getting it through the clamp on the motor housing. The way that's designed it's a 90 degree angle in.
> 
> Guess I'll see what Home Depot has by the foot.....maybe the outer diameter is a bit smaller than it was 50 years ago.


I just rewired my table saw for 240v and used 12 gauge that I got at HD. It was $1.10 a foot and I got 10 feet of it.

Also, I refurbished a 1950 Delta RAS some time ago and used 12 gauge as well. It worked well, even when I had to bend it 90 degrees in the back. If I were you, like someone else already said, I'd replace all the wiring.:thumbsup:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Power supply cords*

There are at least 2 types SO and SJO, that are used to supply power tools.
The SJO is slightly smaller in diameter than the SO.

http://www.ehow.com/info_8762299_difference-between-sjo-power-cord.html


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Ok, so I just picked up 15 feet of 14 gauge soow....the saw has had 14 gauge it's entire 55 year life....I decided it will likely be fine for another 50....

Also, there isn't much room in the motor cover, so the added flex of 14 gauge will likely be useful. 

After standing there thinking for a few minutes, I did opt for a switch....I think it will be more useable than the key. Here's the switch I opted for...any issue using ring terminals on a switch like this??


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Shouldn't be. I used the ones with the open ends (shaped like a "U"), and it worked fine.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Alright....all rewired. Saw fires right up....probably should have put new bearings in it.....but I guess that's getting saved for a later date. 


Next I need to get a new table built for it. The plan is 48 inches wide....

As for depth....where do you all set the fence....I'm thinking of setting it to get 1.5 inches of depth at the fence....thoughts?


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

The Dewalts factory fences were movable, adjusting them to the column allowed a wider ripping cut when needed. To do that the back section was 2 pieces, and could be switched around. One of those back pieces also had a large cutout in it, that was to allow clearance for molding head cutters/guards etc, when the motor was rotated 90º. Personally, I do do any of that (including ripping). Anyway, I gave it about 2 3/4" of clearance at the fence (that, BTW, is about 1/4" short of the maximum cutting depth), but you can make it anything you want. The fence needs to be of a softer wood which allows it to be squeezed flat against the table, which is perfectly squared to the arm and has a perfectly straight edge. If you want to go with the multiple back pieces I can probably find the factory dimensions somewhere, or come up with what you want. In my case that piece wound up being 6 3/4" wide. My arrangement gives me about 13" of 90º cross cut capacity. I made the fence so it's 1" above the table. While my fence is 48" wide, my table is only 40". I had a 48" years ago on a craftsman and found it to take up a lot of room. Did that #14 wire fit the cable clamp? I was wondering if it may have been a little loose.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I don't plan on ripping anything on it...ever...as I have the table saw five feet away, so I had planned on setting it up for crosscut only. I think ill set my fence back a bit further as I would prefer max crosscut capability over depth. 


The 14 gauge wire was a tight fit, after some careful measuring that's exactly what came out of there and I don't see how 12 would have fit....


Thanks to all....I'll update as I get further.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Ok, so wiring was done and I moved on to building a new table. While I had planned on just putting a new table on and leaving the rest alone...one part lead to another and tonight I pulled the entire post apart. Cleaned out all theirs dried up grease, cleaned and lubed the post, and lubed the screw post with dry Teflon lube and put it all together. What before would tire you out cranking the arm all the way up or down....now it cranks easily with one finger. 

I did break a few bolts taking the table off....and were in the middle of an ice storm so i think I'm done working on it till tomorrow. 


I did also cut down the table and wrapped it in laminate....however I screwed up the edge banding on the front so tomorrow I'll have to fix that.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Those bolts and the gib on the back of the column need to be set correctly as well, you likely did that when you re assembled the column. That packed grease on the screws has been a problem on all the ones (5 of them) that I've worked on. Sometimes it looked like folks just packed axle grease in there on the screw. You can have that too loose, so watch for arm creep in use.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I took me forever to get all that grease cleaned out....but now that I did it moves like a knife through butter. 

Picked up a bunch of new machine screws today to replace all the table and post hardware that the heads were anywhere from partly stripped out to broken off....all the old ones are out and now I just need to drill the table holes. No room for error here....I really wish I had a full size drill press right now.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I was a little disappointed the hardware store didn't have machine screws in black in sae sizes, only in metric so now I have an old saw, with shiny new zinc hardware. Oh well....looks clean and new. 

Anyone know I there's a list somewhere showing date of manufacturer on old dewalt stuff from serial numbers?


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

The motor would be your first clue. The first 4 digits of the motor's serial number should be the year, then the month the motor was made. Which is probably close to when the saw was built. The arm has a casting number that can sometimes be tracked, but the arms were made a full year ahead of time, and then seasoned for a year before final cleaning for installation on a saw. But sometimes the motors were swapped around, so OWWM has a chart with serial numbers and approximate date of manufacturer.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Thanks Fred, look like both my motor and arm were 1959.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Saw table all attached. I still need to make a better fence...currently just a scrap of plywood. 

One question....absolutely nothing comes out of the dust port on the guard...it all shoots straight off the back of the blade....pretty normal??

So complete list of what I did....

Rewired switch and motor....replaced key switch with toggle 

Cleaned and lubricated carriage 

Disassembled post and screw elevator, relubricated with Teflon lube. 

Replaced all post and table hardware. 

Built 44 inch wide table, MDF with Formica covering 

Leveled and aligned table to arm. 

Replaced blade with Freud blade.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I'd say the dust issue is typical*

The dust is generated at the front of the blade by the fence, and wants to exit right there. My Craftsman has the dust port at the rear of the blade cover also, but I hook that to a small shop vac. The front of the blade at the fence has a box type collector with another shop vac off the bottom. Most of the dust gets corralled in the box and then sucked down. :yes:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I realize that....It just doesn't make sense why they'd put a dust port there if it does NOTHING at all....


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

It doesn't do _nothing_, but it does very little. My first stationary tool was an RAS, and I did rip boards on it. The port was useful in that operation. With the guard tipped all the way forward, a goodly a,mount of dust was ejected though that port, which I pointed toward the back of the saw into the huge Sears dust catcher I had. For the record, I do not advocate ripping on an RAS; this was in the early 80's when Sears had convinced me it was the only tool an aspiring woodworker would need. Anyway, a lot of guys block that port off. I have a 2" hose connected to mine that in turn fastens to the 6" Duct to the back of the saw. There is little air drawn through that, but enough to evacuate what little dust gets there. A question about that blade, is that the LU91?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It is a LU91 blade. Happy with it so far.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

ryan50hrl said:


> Saw table all attached. I still need to make a better fence...currently just a scrap of plywood.
> 
> One question....absolutely nothing comes out of the dust port on the guard...it all shoots straight off the back of the blade....pretty normal??
> 
> ...


wow! nicely done. that is a good looking saw. if it performs as well as it looks, you're in great shape.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

So far it's performing great!! Much of an improvement over my miter saw.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

So the dust collection was pretty weak on my saw.....so I wedged a hose in the back and put up a shield to test a bit of improv dust collection.......Its pretty darn successful so i'll be building a permanent collector......


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

To me, that's another improvement of the RAS over the miter saw. DC on an RAS is just something on the order of a big gulp iat the back of the saw, and works really well. Over the years I had tried several contraptions on my Dewalt miter saw, and never could get it to work nearly as well. Consider an HVAC boot of the right right size fastened behind the blade, with enough air flow it catches almost everything the saw throws.


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## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

Sorry I missed this earlier. If it needed 14 amps at 220 v, I can't figure out why it would not need 28 at 110. If you have not run it much, it might still be okay, but I'm not sure that running it much converted to 110 with wire for 20 amps is good for its long term life.

I might be completely wrong, but that's the way I'm thinking this morning with the flu.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It's 14 amps at 110...7 at 220.


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## Pat Newnam (Sep 1, 2014)

Fred,
Sounds like you're familiar with the old Dewalt radials. I inherited one from my dad that needs rewired and maybe more. I tried to get the motor apart but would like to find some pictures or other info. Any help would be much appreciated.


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## leslyons (Nov 12, 2014)

*Rewiring an old Sears Craftsman Contractor Table Saw*

I read with interest the string about rewiring, and am hoping it's OK to reply on this thread vs. starting a new one. I've got an old (circa 1990?) Craftsman 10" Contractor Table Saw Model 113.29*** that is wired for 240v, but has a short 14 ga OEM cord. I want to replace it from the switch to the wall plug with a 16 ft. cord so I can run it up, over and down, so I don't have to keep plugging and unplugging. Of course it's 2 wires plus ground. I have a 20 amp receptacle it plugs into. If it's on 240v, the motor indicates it's only drawing less than 7 amps, so shouldn't 14 ga wire be perfectly fine? Or, since it's a 20 amp breaker, do I need to rewire with 12 ga, or change the breaker to a 15 amp? And what kind of wire can I get at Home Depot to do this? I want what looks like an "extension cord wire" like is on it - black, round, flexible rubber (or maybe PVC) sheathed wire. Basically what kind of wire is power tool wire? Thanks everyone for the assist. (p.s. - all wiring is in great shape - I just want longer)


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If your running it on 220 (7.5 amps) then 14 gauge is sufficient. Home Depot carries 14-3 SJOOW and SOOW which I've used on a number of projects. The SOOW is a bit bulkier as it has a thicker shell. 

Since your use is below 300 volts, either will work fine. Choose which ever you want.


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## leslyons (Nov 12, 2014)

Thanks a lot Ryan. I appreciate the response and information!


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

No problem


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## blasby (May 19, 2017)

*Request for PDF's...*

May I get a copy of your PDF's. I have a 1957 DeWalt Radial Arm Saw. Not sure of the model # but I do know
it blows the breaker when I turn the key on. A new development since last year. Since I just replaced the motor bearings
in my pellet stove I feel confident I can change the RA saw bearings as well. Any information you have will be greatly
appreciated.

Thank You
Wayne Blassberg, New Boston, NH
[email protected]


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