# Problems with jointer



## Chris Richardson (May 31, 2017)

New to wood working. New to the forum. I bought a jet 10" jointer planer combo. I am having problems with the jointer. I'm edging an 1" x 4" by 8' long piece of maple and it us causing a huge concave in the wood. I am pretty sure I have it adjusted properly but can't seem to get rid of it. I think my tables aren't long enough to support the work or maybe I'm doing something wrong. My goal is to glue edges together so I can make a DVD shelf. Having different types of wood making vertical lines. Let me know what you think or any advice. For a background I have 10 years as a machinist. But first time getting into wood working for a hobby.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

A common problem with a joiner until it is dialed in correctly is called snipe. Snipe occurs either at the start of the cut or at the end of the cut. Snipe is caused by not having the outfeed table height correct with the cutter-head. When joining most lumber, your depth of cut should be no more than 1/16" for most cuts. Two passes on two pieces of lumber to be joined and you cut off 1/4" of your expensive lumber. 
There are YouTube videos to show how to set your joiner. The best way is with a dial indicator but you can also set it using a framing square. Once set, you do not move the outfeed table. 
If you're joining long pieces of lumber, you may be allowing the board to to fall on the outfeed side.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Usually when it cuts more out of the middle of the board the rear table is slightly too high. Try adjusting it down but not so much it snipes at the end of the cut.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you got several issues at once*

Your board is too long, your tables are too short and the outfeed table is too low. If you start with a convex curve down, the ends fall off the tables in a short distance, and the convex curve keeps repeating itself.

To avoid this, joint in a short distance on each end by rotating the board end for end, just like you would if you were using a hand plane to remove the curve. It may be too far gone and you'll need to straighten it using a circular saw and straight edge guide. I use my table saw straight line rip guide that holds the board with toggle clamps. There are several solutions on You Tube that are very similar. 

_ The Masonite or other 1/4" up to 1/2", substrate will have a "factory straight" edge if you rip a 10" wide piece. Then mount your Oak flush to that edge, screw it down and then rip the opposite edge, it should be straight.

You can instantly adjust the board in the jig for maximum material useage. You can also cut tapers by aligning the marks at the blade side of the jig and cutting flush with that edge.  bill

_



How it's made:
  
Here's a helpful article:
http://newwoodworker.com/jntrprobfxs.html


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> Usually when it cuts more out of the middle of the board the rear table is slightly too high. Try adjusting it down but not so much it snipes at the end of the cut.


Which is the rear table? Infeed? or Outfeed?

George


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Chris Richardson said:


> New to wood working. New to the forum. I bought a jet 10" jointer planer combo. I am having problems with the jointer. I'm edging an 1" x 4" by 8' long piece of maple and it us causing a huge concave in the wood. I am pretty sure I have it adjusted properly but can't seem to get rid of it. I think my tables aren't long enough to support the work or maybe I'm doing something wrong. My goal is to glue edges together so I can make a DVD shelf. Having different types of wood making vertical lines. Let me know what you think or any advice. For a background I have 10 years as a machinist. But first time getting into wood working for a hobby.


How long is the infeed and outfeed bed on your jointer?

George


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Jointer setup and correcting a curve*

In this video by Charles Neil, he shows how to set up the jointers tables and knives. He demonstrates removing a curve by jointing in from each end at 6:00 into it:






When says it will make 2 "parallel" edges/surfaces .... he means "perpendicular" as suggested in the comments underneath!:surprise2:


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> Which is the rear table? Infeed? or Outfeed?
> 
> George


The rear table would be the outfeed table.


----------



## rfbilliards (May 21, 2017)

Chris Richardson said:


> New to wood working. New to the forum. I bought a jet 10" jointer planer combo. I am having problems with the jointer. I'm edging an 1" x 4" by 8' long piece of maple and it us causing a huge concave in the wood. I am pretty sure I have it adjusted properly but can't seem to get rid of it. I think my tables aren't long enough to support the work or maybe I'm doing something wrong. My goal is to glue edges together so I can make a DVD shelf. Having different types of wood making vertical lines. Let me know what you think or any advice. For a background I have 10 years as a machinist. But first time getting into wood working for a hobby.


Table length has nothing to do with it. I have joined really long boards on short joiners with absolutely no problems. I have had this problem before on my 12" scmi and the problem was the alignment of the tables themselves. The steps I took: Remove the blades so they do not interfere with the realignment process. Next is to use a really nice straight edge that will span the full length of the joiner bed. Using the adjustments for the bed adjust accordingly. One thing I always check is the flatness diagonally across the bed. Once the beds are perfectly aligned reinstall your blades. Setting your straight edge on the OUTFEED side, adjust the height of the bed to the top of your blades. I think that covers it all. Good luck any questions please ask


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

What do you do when the outfeed table is not adjustable?

George


----------

