# Cabinet doors too small



## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Hi - we recently added some new cabinetry and wanted to match the old cabinets doors and draws to the new. We ordered new cabinet doors and they were lovely... but... we noticed that they cut them to the exact measurements of the opening in the cabinet frames. We have framed cabinetry. I have tried contacting company who made them and they are not willing to help fix it. I cannot afford to reorder new cabinet doors and need to fix this anyway possible. Any suggestions from anyone? And please be kind... I have seen some other post of people giving their comments and saying "your screwed" this is already an upsetting situation so only intelligent and resourceful recommendations please :smile:


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

penbeckr said:


> Hi - we recently added some new cabinetry and wanted to match the old cabinets doors and draws to the new. We ordered new cabinet doors and they were lovely... but... we noticed that they cut them to the exact measurements of the opening in the cabinet frames. We have framed cabinetry. I have tried contacting company who made them and they are not willing to help fix it. I cannot afford to reorder new cabinet doors and need to fix this anyway possible. Any suggestions from anyone? And please be kind... I have seen some other post of people giving their comments and saying "your screwed" this is already an upsetting situation so only intelligent and resourceful recommendations please :smile:


if you can get some of the same kind of wood , you mite fram them with we will say 1" all the way around the door's or smaller that is what i would do, you can't add wood to the wood already cut. or take the door's to a cabnet shop and have them make a fram to fit if you don't have any tool's, sounds like you don't have any shop stuff ?? good luck if you have the drawing you sent in to have the door's made and they are to that speck, it is your's, if it isn't than they should make it right ? good luck


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

One option is to hang the new doors as inset doors, rather than as overlay doors. Meaning the doors fit flush in the faceframes, not over them. It requires a different hinge and the new doors may have to be shaved/cut down a little for clearance. Another option may be to add on to the new doors so they can be used as overlay doors. Some type of a mitered molding around the perimeter could be applied. You didn't say if they are finished or if you have woodworking skills and tools. Some knowledge about hinge types and how to install them is important.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

A little more information might be useful. Type of doors (overlay?), wood, they aren't finished (right?). Some pics of the doors, and maybe one cabinet might help. What about the drawer fronts, are they useable? That said, there may be a way (ways) to use what you have, but almost any I can think of will require at least some woodworking tools (have any?). Also, the final finish may be a factor, some things are easier to hide if the wood is painted. So... I won't say you're screwed, but you do have a challenge.


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Thanks for the response. Have some tools, some mild skill. I attached a photo of the type of doors. Was a phone order and they won't respond to me. The cabinetry is going to be painted just need to see if we can get doors to work.


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Thanks... yes I did think about if it would work inset. instead of adding to the door, my thought was to add a small strip to make up difference in the frame... if possible since they are going to be painted. any thoughts with that idea?


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Sorry for the lack of info... new to this kind of stuff. I added a photo of the doors. They are unfinished paintable maple. They were supposed to be overlay on framed cabinetry... all was to be painted. The draw fronts are unusable, I think only one is possible. They are not a huge concerned, will figure that out maybe get new ones. Have some tools and some mild skill enough to be able to make somethings work


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

No pictures are up, maybe you forgot to click the upload button.


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/penbeckr-40468/albums/


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Picture of new cabinet door.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Well, others will have another approach (probably better), but to use those as inset doors, you have to remove the outer edge profile and then glue some stock on. Possible, but it does add a complication. In fact, any solution I can think of to make these usable would mean having to square up the outside edge and add material. Then if you still wanted that profile, you have to cut a new one on the additional material. The tricky part about gluing on some more stock to machine would be the joint at the rails (horizontal parts) and stiles (vertical parts). I'm not sure how i would handle that, but if it's maple maybe it can be painted some none of the grain/joint lines show. Wait and see what other thing folks think up.

Edit in: I did have another thought: what about making the face frames smaller so the doors will fit? That would entail putting a piece of wood on the inside of each frame that measures 3/8" or so. If that's acceptable, t would be infinitely easier than modifying the doors, and probably look a lot better.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

How many doors/openings are you referring to? Are the new doors going to be next to or close proximity to the old ones? For the existing doors, I'm assuming they are overlay on a face frame. What's the overlay...IOW what's the spacing between the doors where two meet, or where doors are back to back? And, just for general info, how wide are the face frames?









 







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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Fred my thoughts exactly. I don't think I would attempt to modify the doors themselves. I feel comfortable modifying the opening. I figured I could just attach filler pieces and make sure put something (putty, etc) making the crack where they meet undetectable. This of course makes the opening smaller but I think that will be ok considering the opening of each is considerable and it's not really taking that much away in order to put things away. it is still a lot of work but, I think this is the best idea to still use the doors without modifying them. Anybody disagree with this route and what would be the concerns moving forward with this????


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Once you address Cabinetman's questions I think this approach may be feasible. His questions address the appearance of the new and the old.

George


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

@Cabinetman - there are approximately 15 doors of all varying sizes. Yes, they will be in close proximity to the new ones. Pictures below show old cabinets and just to the left is the new. Sorry these probably would have been helpful earlier but, I didn't realize I had these until now


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

new cabs to the left of old


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

@Cabinetman - I think the face frames are 2 inches not exactly sure since I am not at home I can't measure them

the space between the ones that meet is about 1-2in. I do have 2 doors for under my sink that does not have anything between them it is all open with the 2 doors meeting each other in the middle. you can somewhat see them in picture. Sorry about the lingo....


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

You might find if you add a 3/8" piece to each inside edge that it would line up exactly with the edge of the undersize door, making the seam unnoticeable. I'm still thinking that's the easy way out.....for the (sink?) cabinet that doesn't have the center stile, you could add one. Put it in so it's removable, in case you need to crawl in there for plumbing work.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I will just be up front about the situation. You have the new ones fitted (as overlay) to the left of the refrigerator. The bulk of the doors (15) are to the right. If the fix is to make the the ones on the right inset, they in no way will look similar to the others. Sure, filling in the face frame can make them work, but if you are like me, it will be a sore thumb every time you look at them.

If you make the new doors inset, they have a little cove on the face edge, that will set the face ahead of the face frame if the bottom of the cove is flush with the FF. It looks like about an eighth inch. I really don't know how to advise you. I know you don't want to hear it, but biting the bullet and re-ordering would be peace of mind, and a lesson learned. 

Instead of making a farce out of the kitchen, maybe wait until you can afford it to re-order . The whole point I'm making is that overlay and inset will look completely different.


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

@Cabinetman - there was never an intention to inset the new doors. I think that may have been confused with an option someone had stated that I did think about but, doesn't really make sense as you you make perfect point of. I purchased new doors to put up on old cabinets (to right of photo) that match the new cabinet doors (to the left of fridge). I would like to work this situation out to still have them overlay but wasnt sure how to accomplished that. I thought adding some sort of filler strip of wood on the face fronts of the old cabinetry would make it work. Unfortunately can't pay for more new doors budget busted.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I like this approach*



penbeckr said:


> Fred my thoughts exactly. I don't think I would attempt to modify the doors themselves. I feel comfortable modifying the opening. * I figured I could just attach filler pieces *and make sure put something (putty, etc) making the crack where they meet undetectable. This of course makes the opening smaller but I think that will be ok considering the opening of each is considerable and it's not really taking that much away in order to put things away. it is still a lot of work but, I think this is the best idea to still use the doors without modifying them. Anybody disagree with this route and what would be the concerns moving forward with this????


If you can add to the inside of each frame ... all the way around
and sand/fill and paint later I think it will work. Probably about 3/8" to 1/2" per side? It's easier to modify the frame than the door....unless you add on a thicker frame and rabbet the existing door in behind it. .. but that gets clumsy looking. A picture of the cabinet frames will help!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> If you can add to the inside of each frame ... all the way around
> and sand/fill and paint later I think it will work. Probably about 3/8" to 1/2" per side? It's easier to modify the frame than the door....unless you add on a thicker frame and rabbet the existing door in behind it. .. but that gets clumsy looking. A picture of the cabinet frames will help!


Fred suggested that...you probably missed it...


Fred Hargis said:


> You might find if you add a 3/8" piece to each inside edge that it would line up exactly with the edge of the undersize door, making the seam unnoticeable. I'm still thinking that's the easy way out.....for the (sink?) cabinet that doesn't have the center stile, you could add one. Put it in so it's removable, in case you need to crawl in there for plumbing work.









 





 
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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

penbeckr said:


> @Cabinetman - there was never an intention to inset the new doors. I think that may have been confused with an option someone had stated that I did think about but, doesn't really make sense as you you make perfect point of. I purchased new doors to put up on old cabinets (to right of photo) that match the new cabinet doors (to the left of fridge). I would like to work this situation out to still have them overlay but wasnt sure how to accomplished that. I thought adding some sort of filler strip of wood on the face fronts of the old cabinetry would make it work. Unfortunately can't pay for more new doors budget busted.


If you are willing to consider adding a strip to the inside edge, that can work, but, you will have more of a reveal between the doors. There is a way to make that extra line disappear, but don't tell anyone I told you this.

Take off the doors. Use a peel and stick wood veneer, that you cut it in strips to lay on the overall frames to cover the seam. Just stick it down in the same configuration as if it were face frames. The peel and stick requires no glue, and cuts easily with a sharp utility knife. You can use a combo square and a metal yardstick (sold at HD for less than $5), as straightedges.









 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I really like Fred*



cabinetman said:


> Fred suggested that...you probably missed it...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I didn't miss it.....:no:


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Thank you to all who contributed thoughtful ideas on how to fix this mess I have. I am going to attempt adding some strips to the frame and see what that does... It's worth a shot to me to salvage the doors and I have enough filler wood pieces that will work. I was going to attempt some of this this weekend and if all goes well I will post an after pic. Comments will be welcomed (all nice of course lol)


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## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

how about cutting some strips, filling in one or two frames in a more unnoticable place, and seeing what you think? If it were me I would try a good pin nailer and putty it up, sand, etc. one thing to be thankful for is the fact you're painting! one suggestion though, it if won't look too crazy, is to only fill in the non-hinge side of the door opening, I would want my hinges to still go into the original face frame, its gonna split that little filler piece every time...hope this helps, I feel your pain, wrong door sizes are never fun. if they're all the same dimension off maybe a cheap piece of pre-made molding from a box store would work for a filler instead of having to rip all those skinny pieces...


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

penbeckr said:


> Thank you to all who contributed thoughtful ideas on how to fix this mess I have. I am going to attempt adding some strips to the frame and see what that does... It's worth a shot to me to salvage the doors and I have enough filler wood pieces that will work. I was going to attempt some of this this weekend and if all goes well I will post an after pic. Comments will be welcomed (all nice of course lol)



If you don't have a pin nailer or brad nailer, this is one of those jobs where it would pay to buy one. I'd prefer a pinner, but it will make this go so much faster you'll find the money well spent.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

willbess08 said:


> ...I would want my hinges to still go into the original face frame, its gonna split that little filler piece every time...


Once the filler pieces are added (glued and fastened) to the inside edge of the face frame, they should be secure enough to carry the hinges. The holes should be piloted, just like they should be on just a face frame installation. If mechanical fasteners are to be used (pin or brad nails), make sure their placement doesn't interfere with hinge plate mounting screws.








 







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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I probably should have elaborated...I would suggest using the pins/brads to hold the pieces while they are glued. The glued joint will give you the best strength for the hinges, etc. But using 2 or 3 pins per piece will really help with the positioning.


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Good idea.... I was thinking I might just spend the time pre-drilling and screws for strength.

This girl just might get it right after all.... I am going to take my time and pray for the best. 

One thing I did notice last night the will be a challenge... is the doors that are directly under the three draws. They will not be equal in size to the draw fronts. I think if I position the doors exactly in the middle it won't be too terribly noticeable.


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## jessrj (Mar 30, 2012)

penbeckr said:


> Thanks... yes I did think about if it would work inset. instead of adding to the door, my thought was to add a small strip to make up difference in the frame... if possible since they are going to be painted. any thoughts with that idea?


In set is your best option overall butI think adding some material to the face frames will work too. It wont be perfect but it will work. Just remember that whatever you add to the frame you will need to add at the back of all the drawer cabinets so the drawer guides will work. Also think about the bottom of the other cabinets. You don't want a huge lip you have to lift things over when you set things in the cabinet.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jessrj said:


> In set is your best option overall butI think adding some material to the face frames will work too. It wont be perfect but it will work. Just remember that whatever you add to the frame you will need to add at the back of all the drawer cabinets so the drawer guides will work. Also think about the bottom of the other cabinets. You don't want a huge lip you have to lift things over when you set things in the cabinet.


Some good points. If wood strips are added to the inside edges, the drawers will be required to be narrower. Depending on how the slides are mounted, they too will have to be moved. If a build out from the cabinet was used to set the cabinet member flush with the opening, then more would have to be added to the build out.

On face frame cabinets, I make the bottom rail flush with the floor of the cabinet just for easy access and cleaning.

It might be easier to just cut off the edge profile, and add an edge to the door, and re-profile the edge. That might match much better.








 







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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

*Cabinet Doors too small *FIXED**

Well, it was a long, tiring and sore weekend for me.... I have all but 2 doors hung (the ones above the fridge left) adding some strips of wood to the face frames worked out great in my opinion.... I didn't over think it I just took my time, measured, hung the doors on the side where the old hinges were and then added strips of wood to take up the gap on the other side, top or bottom as needed. @cabinetman... thank you for tip of using the peel and stick wood banding. I think this will finish them off nicely and then they will be ready for painting. At first I couldn't find any that I felt were wide enough since they come pretty standard @ 2" and lower. I finally found a 5" wide unfinished maple.... PERFECT. Just need to wait for it to be delivered. Also, need to figure out the draws still. Probably going to just replace with new draw fronts that fit. Attaching pictures of end result of weekends work.

Proud of this girl... she got 'er done :thumbsup:


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

pic2


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

pic3


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

pic4


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I'm glad you got things worked out, congrats.


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

Thanks Fred.... all you suggestions very very helpful.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

penbeckr said:


> @cabinetman... thank you for tip of using the peel and stick wood banding. I think this will finish them off nicely and then they will be ready for painting. At first I couldn't find any that I felt were wide enough since they come pretty standard @ 2" and lower. I finally found a 5" wide unfinished maple.... PERFECT.


Depending on where you buy it, a usual width is 24" by 8' long. That would be the least expensive way to purchase. As for installing, cut strips to allow an overhang of a minimum of ¼". You will need the overhang to allow for placement. With PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) wood tape, it's like using contact cement, without the smell of glue.

For applying the strips, the outer stiles just lay on top to bottom. For the rail pieces, once you have sized them for width, have a helper hold one edge to the edge of one of the stiles, and mark the other end where it meets the edge of the other stile. You can cut a straight line using a combo square and a sharp utility knife. You may allow a smidgen on the length. Test it before peeling it. You don't want to lay a strip right on the old seam of where a rail meets a stile. In your case by adding strips, your seam will be beyond that. With your experience I wouldn't try cutting the veneer to keep the joint back of the amount of the new add on area. 

For trimming the edge, use a plain mill file, like the one to file plastic laminate. You will notice that the edges of the file are milled like a rasp. Lay the file on the edge perpendicular to the face. IOW, when filing off the overhang on a face frame, start with the file on the edge, with the far end of the file tipped slightly up.

Use the edge of the file in short sharp strokes only on the down stroke, to rasp off the veneer. You want the handle of the file held back in the direction that you are filing. IOW, a slight angle of the file to the veneer will cut the edge smoother than having the file straight up and down. Once you try this out, you'll find it's really the fastest way to trim the veneer. If you use a utility knife or a flush trim router bit, it can catch the grain and cause a tearout. Once most of the bulk of the overhang is off, you can go back and dress the edge with the face of the file, at about a 10 degree angle or less. You will get the hang of it pretty quick.









 





 

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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

OK I'm going to take this another direction for a minute. Not to make you feel worse or give you a hard time. I think that if this was your mistake then sure fixing it somehow is the best action. If it is there mistake then they should make it right or they should have some action against them. Even if the only thing is getting it known who they are and what kind of screw up they caused. However depending on the following answers they may be more that can be done then as been. I hate when people get taken advantage of and they except that nothing can be done. 

What was the company that you got the doors from?

How did you pay? Cash, check or charge?

Who measured?

What was measured door or opening?

Do the door dimensions match what was ordered?


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

@Cabinetman.. ok thanks for the info. Sounds kinda like how I had to file off the excess of the formica end caps. I didn't have a file meant for laminate and my husbands file was too aggressive so I just used one of my fingernail files.... worked great! (the advantage of being a resourceful girl LOL). I think I may have to go buy me a mill file as you suggest though. I hope all goes well with the banding a little scared cause I have never used it before and I know the wood is very thin and I would expect the adhesive to be pretty strong. My husband will have be the helper this time! (good for him he was on a bike trip this past weekend, he won't escape this next time


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

@rrbrown... we did try to contact company that we ordered from and they have ignored us. I believe it was clearly their fault. This was truly and upsetting situation for us to be ignored.... that being said... we were able to fix this mess and move on. I have no intention of blasting this company and I think in general they do good work.. their biggest fault being not wanting to take responsibility for this, which I understand is huge. Had we not been able to fix this situation I definitely would have disputed payment with my credit card company for a response from them till it got fixed. Mistakes happen ... but would I order from them again NO, would I recommend them NO. This initially created an unhappy experience that we have made into a positive one. Thankful for all the help and suggestions here in this forum.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

penbeckr said:


> @rrbrown... we did try to contact company that we ordered from and they have ignored us. I believe it was clearly their fault. This was truly and upsetting situation for us to be ignored.... that being said... we were able to fix this mess and move on. I have no intention of blasting this company and I think in general they do good work.. their biggest fault being not wanting to take responsibility for this, which I understand is huge. Had we not been able to fix this situation I definitely would have disputed payment with my credit card company for a response from them till it got fixed. Mistakes happen ... but would I order from them again NO, would I recommend them NO. This initially created an unhappy experience that we have made into a positive one. Thankful for all the help and suggestions here in this forum.


I'm glad you got it straight and that your happy to move on. However to just move on and do nothing encourages them to do the same thing again next time. Next time someone else gets screwed over by the same people it may be worse. A good company does good work, stands behind it and cares about there customers and there reputation. If they are lacking in any of those things then they are not a good company. With a little experience in negative feedback they may still become a good company but they must own up to the mistakes they make first. 

I'm just trying to encourage you to help protect the next guy. Wouldn't it have been nice for someone to have done that for you. 

Good luck and I'm glad you were able to fix the problem.


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## penbeckr (Apr 18, 2013)

@rrbrown You are absolutely right. It is important for the next guy and yes if this is how that company works it would have been nice to know from the beginning. I will find a way to convey my experience and disappointment constructively for the next guy. Thanks for your input


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

If I had proof that I had submitted the correct dimensions to the company, I would have disputed the bill (with the credit card company) the minute that the door manufacturer refused to correct the work.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

rrbrown said:


> I'm glad you got it straight and that your happy to move on. However to just move on and do nothing encourages them to do the same thing again next time. Next time someone else gets screwed over by the same people it may be worse. A good company does good work, stands behind it and cares about there customers and there reputation. If they are lacking in any of those things then they are not a good company. With a little experience in negative feedback they may still become a good company but they must own up to the mistakes they make first.
> 
> I'm just trying to encourage you to help protect the next guy. Wouldn't it have been nice for someone to have done that for you.
> 
> Good luck and I'm glad you were able to fix the problem.


It may be worthwhile to explain exactly how this mistake was made. Richard was right, in that solving the problem (whatever that was) will help the next guy. Well, maybe the next guy is on this forum, and about to order doors.

I've ordered many doors over time, and what was asked is length (height), and width. When I get the doors, they are either right (most all the time) on those dimensions, or slightly larger, but not larger than 1/32". This allows for any sanding that may be done.

Those are the only two dimensions that matter to them. If a mistake was made in reading the dimensions, and the submitted dimensions were different than the actual door sizes received, the company would and should have stood by making an exchange. If the door sizes received were the dimension of what was submitted, you can't blame the company. 









 







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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

The noise in the background is your audience cheering at your success!!


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## sancho57 (Oct 23, 2011)

I kinda agree with rrbrown. You should of had at the very least have someone come in and measure for you.

But with that being said

You didnt not show us what the inside of the F/F look like. Im guessing that there is some sort of gaps in the f/f where you added the filler piece.

Because you are painting these doors what I would do is go the extra step and use some bondo to fill any sort of line or gap in the f/f and sand smooth to hide any gaps. Do this prior to painting.


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## emcaruso (Dec 9, 2015)

*Measured Cabinet Doors Small*

I know this might be a late entry but apparently this is a common mistake when ordering new door fronts and one that can be a really expensive boo boo if your only choice is to reorder the doors. I recently measured our doors exactly 1 inch too small which made them all the same size as the opening. I was told by the company to add molding to the surround or the back of the door and/or try different hinges but nothing was going to work or look as good as the beautiful doors I'd purchased. I was really upset and ready to give up and reorder the doors and eat the $2500 when a happy accident occurred that has fixed the problem perfectly and the doors actually look better than the originals. We were doing a total gut job reno on our new house and the garage was full of our supplies including different types of molding for the whole house. The day the doors were delivered and I pulled them out to see what my options might be I happened to look over at our pile of moldings and I got distracted as I pulled out a piece of tiny molding that was supposed to be for our baseboard caps but was way way too small. I was already in a bad mood thinking "oh great" something else was wrong but when I was inspecting that tiny molding and accidentally had it right next to the cabinet door I was inspecting I had an ah ha moment that saved our kitchen and our budget. The molding is sold by Lowe's:

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...1852&partNumber=80956-1487-2258&storeId=10151

It is called EverTrue 1/2" x 8' Interior/Exterior PVC Stop Window Moulding. I actually ordered it by accident - I was trying to purchase the 1 1/2" baseboard cap which looks very similar but it much larger. This product is $2.78 per 8 ft piece and it's a PVC product so it's solid but bendable and can be cut. You'll need to measure out and cut 45 degree angles to make a "picture frame" to attach to the outside of the door. When you put this molding flat side back to the side of the cabinet door - you cannot tell that it's not part of the door. It adds exactly a half an inch to every side of the door which is what is needed if you've measured the opening and not added the 1 inch they tell you to in order to have a perfect sized door. We attached the molding with little dabs of liquid nail and finishing/small brad nails. Any holes from the nails were filled, sanded and painted. There were no gaps due to the awesome construction of that molding and it looks wonderful. This was done for all of our cabinet doors and drawer fronts with no problems at all.

The cabinet doors we ordered were the beadboard center and they look great - Once we've hung them I'll post a picture so you can see what it looks like but just in case I thought I would post this to hopefully help someone else. I measured the doors perfectly I just forgot to add the inch. I think I was just so worried about getting it right that I totally missed that step overthinking everything and if you're on a budget this fix could be under $120 rather than spending 3k on another set of doors. Hope this helps someone - I had a lot of trouble finding a simple yet doable fix for this problem. Hope it helps!


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

If you are dead set on using the doors, I see only one option, because you can't inset the new doors. 
I would shim-out the face frame by adding the width of material needed to the bottom of the opening and the side where the hinges will be mounted. Use a soft wood (pine or poplar for your filler.)
After painting, you will be okay.


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