# Cutting round dowels...



## eloko (Jun 12, 2009)

Hey guys, I have recently been working on a project and it requires 2" dowels to be cut. They are 7/8" in diameter and I am cutting with a table saw. I have made cuts on my table saw before without any problems at all. My problem is when I cut the dowels, they almost always kick back and fly yards away from the table saw. If you guys could give me some suggestions and such on how to cut these in a much safer manner, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.


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## rusty baker (Jun 14, 2008)

Using a table saw for that is too dangerous. I have cut them with a band saw and scroll saw, but I would never cut them with a table saw.


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## eloko (Jun 12, 2009)

Yeah I can see why, so its best if I use a bandsaw?


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## eloko (Jun 12, 2009)

Hey guys, I really need these dowel rods cut, please help me out. Thanks.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Make a jig for your TS*

Take a 2x8 about 18" long and set your blade to 45 degrees tilt. Make a V groove with 2 passes and a flip closer to one edge than the other. This will cradle the dowel. Saw only part way through the 2x8 piece so you know where the saw cut is and can use that to measure from and so you don't end up with a free piece of dowel flying around. I'm assuming you don't have a bandsaw here. :thumbsup: bill


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## eloko (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks a lot for your help! I am not quite sure if I fully understand though. So to cut the rod I would place it in the v-groove and cut completley through jig? I am sorry, im fairly new to all this. Thanks again!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*No, you would just saw up your jig.*

That's why I said use a 2x8 so there would be enough stock to cut the dowel but not the jig all the way through. And why I said to put the groove close to one edge, not right in the middle. Leave enough room to cut the dowel off, and not destroy the jig, Follow?:smile: bill
If you are really stuck I'll go make one and post a photo.


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## Jordy3738 (Jan 12, 2009)

It sounds like you should be wearing an armored suit for protection and safety. 

Put a block underneath the table saw fence so that it is angled upward. This way you can us it as a guide but the dowel rod won't be able to bind after it is cut because the fence is angled out of the way.

Set your fence 1 1/2" bigger and use an inch and a half spacer that does not extended to the saw blade. The spacer acts as a guide to get the dimension correct but because it stops short of the saw blade there will be nothing for the dowel ti bind against.


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## eloko (Jun 12, 2009)

Alright thanks guys! And Bill I think I get it now.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Another way to do this is to cut a 3/4" by 3" high strip of wood long enough to seat on the miter gauge and go past the blade. Measure off 2" to the saw blade and make a nick cut, with the blade about 1" high. Tack a stop on the end to stop the dowel.

Clamp the standing strip to the miter gauge lining up the nick with the blade. Set the dowel against the end stop and hold tightly to the strip. The blade will pass through enough to cut the dowel, and the cutoff won't go flying back.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Got a band saw or miter saw? I cut my thin dowels on the bandsaw, my thicker ones are on the miter saw with sandpaper on the fence to hold it in place. Works well.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I usually just cut dowels with a handsaw. I guess if you have a few dozen to do then a power tool would be good.

G


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

I have had good luck by not using the fence. I make a mark on the saw table for the length I want, and put the dowel against the miter gauge. I set the blade a little higher than half the thickness of the dowel. As I pass the dowell over the blade I rotate it so that it is cut completely through. 

Gerry


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