# grizzly chain grinder



## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

I am looking for a good chain grinder. I saw those speedsharp stars on Bailey's but man they are expensive. I borrowed a cheap HF one my friend had but hated it. Cheap plastic flexed alot and it just wasnt accurate. So i was in the Grizzly store the other day and they have one for $120 that seemed pretty sturdy. Has anyone used one? I will spend the bucks for the speedsharp if it means well sharpened chains but I suspect very sharp chains can be had at a better price. 

Any advise is appreciated


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## woodtick greg (Sep 12, 2011)

I use a oregon grinder when I do machine grind, usually just hand file my chains on the saw, It's more convenient and I think my hand filed chains are sharper then a machine ground chain. after 3 or 4 files I do machine grind just to set all the teeth the same. not familiar with grizz bran of chain grinder, I find that their large tools are of good quality but not so much on the small power tools. often times you get what you pay for.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

I hand file too but either I am no good at hand filing or I am asking too much. My chain mill cut pretty good new but no matter how I sharpen just seems dull. I know. Chains wont last forever but these chains arent that old. 
In theory wont a proper sharpening return the chain to new or like new performance? I understand grinding can ruin the temper but shouldnt i be able to get the chains to cut good for a short period? 


I hand file in the field but would like a grinder to true/sharpen the chains when I get a chance back at the shop. 

I agree about grizzly small tools but this one seemed pretty solid. But I could find zero reviews. Which i guess should tell me something right there.


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## woodtick greg (Sep 12, 2011)

I assume that you are using a ripping chain for milling, I find that they will work good until about half the tooth has been ground or filed away. the rakers, which is the tooth that regulates how much the cutting tooth can cut will need to be reset as the cutting teeth get smaller from grinding or fileing. Check northern tool, I saw a grinder in their cataloge for about $125 I think, chinese copy of a oregon, they also sell several models of the oregon. the trick to not ruining the temper is to take very light cuts with a grinder, just touch the tooth 3 or 4 times to get to the full depth of the tooth and then move to the next tooth. proper technique won't ruin the temper, don't let the tooth get hot and turn blue and you'll be ok. hand fileing in the field and grinding to set all teeth the same in the shop is what I do. Learning to hand file is important to know, It can save you time in the field, especially if you hit nails, It's easier to file a chain than to change one out imho.


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## bugman1954 (Apr 1, 2008)

*Grizzly sharpener*

Kevin, if you will buy me one of those grinders I will test it for you. I then will be able to tell you how good it is. Right now I just use files. Files cost about $3 and I can sharpen about 10 times before it gets clogged up. 

One thing I noticed on my Alaskan mill was when I took those speed bumps down performance really picked up. I was half-ing a cherry log Saturday and it cut through like butter. I was almost ready to just put on a new chain. I took the bumps down on my 046 with a 24" bar and now it cuts the way it is supposed to. I suspect it is down .020 below the gauge. Good trigger control and pressure are key also. Wood chips are better thap dust.

Where are you that you are near a Griz store? I'm in Spfld mo.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

I am in the fort leonard wood area. So yes the springfield store is where I was. Cool it's nice to meet someone on here that is fairly close to me.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I have the most expensive of the Grizzly chain grinders and am very happy with it. I'm also near Springfield Missouri.


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## kmwhalley (Dec 22, 2011)

Bugman, what do you mean by the "speed bumps" and how did you take them down. I run a 
24" bar on a husky 570, with an Alaskan mill...up in Liberty, mo


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## bugman1954 (Apr 1, 2008)

*Rakers*

Its actually called the raker in front of the cutter. They make differrent gauges so all the rakers are set the same depth. I don't what depth I have it just wasnt agressive enough for me. Where you buy your round files there are flat files, these are called raker files. I basically used the gauge to see where I was at and then made two full passes with the raker file to see how much deeper the top of the raker was. You could use anything as a gauge but the gauge will help you get all the rakers at the same height. I was looking at Baileysonline and saw they have differrent depth of gauges. .025 up to 070. 

I would never tell anyone to remove their rakers. For safety ask a professional. I am a sawyer and I use my chainsaws for milling wood. I never undercut the log which is a major contributor to kickback. 

Kevin, next time you are in Springfield or if you know your are coming give me a call. I've viewed Big Daves web site and he is close. I'll try to make it a point to go see him some time.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

@bigdave...is it the one they sell for around $120? 

Sounds like MO is nicely represented here! 

@bugman...I would love to drop by next time i am in SGF. I'd like to see your setup and ask a few questions. Actually till i can get down there, if you dont mind a little Q&A I will jump over to PM.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Yes, it's the one for $120.00.


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## kmwhalley (Dec 22, 2011)

Bugman...I appreciate your insight and am very intrigued by the alteration to the raker...I have not yet ventured into sharpening or altering my own chains but I really would like to as it sounds like it could save me a lot of time and money


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

Filing down the rakers will definitely make the saw cut more aggressively but it also increases the risk of kickback. Most sharpening services around here won't do it. If you do it yourself, just be aware of the increased kickback risk and use proper technique to mitigate it.


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## kmwhalley (Dec 22, 2011)

ETWW...thanks again for the insight...when milling with an Alaskan mill, it seems as though there would be little kickback opportunity...you may have differing.experiences.than I.though

Also, is there naturally difference between the top of the "tooth" and the raker ...and by filing the top of the raker 1or 2 strokes, you are essentially depening the bite of the tooth...right?


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## woodtick greg (Sep 12, 2011)

kewhalley said:


> ETWW...thanks again for the insight...when milling with an Alaskan mill, it seems as though there would be little kickback opportunity...you may have differing.experiences.than I.though
> 
> Also, is there naturally difference between the top of the "tooth" and the raker ...and by filing the top of the raker 1or 2 strokes, you are essentially depening the bite of the tooth...right?


With a ripping chain and milling there is little if any chance for a kickback. Each time you sharpen a chain the height of the tooth gets shorter and it cuts less material. If the rakers are not reset periodicly the tooth can be razor sharp and still not cut as it won't be able to contact the wood. If to much of the raker is removed the cut will be very aggressive and can actually stall the chain. Think of a raker as a depth gauge.


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## kmwhalley (Dec 22, 2011)

Woodtick...thankd for the insight. I now light know why one of the ripping chains I have cuts So slowly...do you have a suggestion for a raker file and the process


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## woodtick greg (Sep 12, 2011)

kewhalley said:


> Woodtick...thankd for the insight. I now light know why one of the ripping chains I have cuts So slowly...do you have a suggestion for a raker file and the process


Any good chainsaw shop will have a raker gauge, they sell for a couple of bucks. having the gauge will take the guess work out of it and teach you how much material to remove. They will also have a flat file and that's all you need. the rakers can be set with the chain still on the bar, just a few strokes with the file flat across the top of the raker and then lay the gauge on the chain to check the height of the raker. After you do this process a few times you will know how much material to remove and the process will speed up. It has been my experiance that with a ripping chain after about half of the cutting tooth has been filed or ground away from sharpenings it's time for replacement. Even with setting the rakers after a while they just won't cut as well. chainsaw milling is a slow process anyway and I want every advantage to speed things up. Lay the gauge on a new chain just for a referance to see how they look new. If you don't have a decent shop neer you I order alot of my stuff from baileys, ask them for a cataloge, all kinds of equipment for aborist, millers, and lumberjack kinda guys:yes: Just google it.


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## kmwhalley (Dec 22, 2011)

Thank you so much...this sight is so valuable!!!


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