# ryobi BTS21 or BTS30



## hotrod351 (Apr 13, 2011)

hope this is the right section, but here goes, i go to home depot because i just broke my pro-tech 10" saw, it was old and i think cheap. anyway i see the ryobi bts21 and figure it will do the job, i buy it and get it home, open the box and get started, i did notice that something seemed different about the saw but needed to get my work done, it worked great. the next day i had to go back to home depot and while there checked out the saw again on display, sure enough it was different, its the bts21 and the one i bought is the bts30, they dont have anymore bts21,s only the 30,s. i see the difference in the fact that the 30 has bolt oon leg extensions where as the 21 doesnt, all one piece, and the 21 has adjusters on two of the legs where as the 30 doesnt, also the 21 has a miter plate that extends and moves where as the 30 doesnt. now i have the chance to take the 30 back, they said they would take it back glady, well maybe not glady, but the display model is missing the piece that mounts to the miter plate. there going to see if the ryobi rep can come up with it. my question is it worth it to swap out for the 21. seems that it has more features than the 30. seems like ryobi made the 30 cheaper. what does everyone think ?


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

Welcome to the forum hotrod! Can I assume that you are a Ford man?!? Me too (despite the fact that I own a '72 El Camino, all the rest are Fords!).

As for your question, can I assume that you are looking at the RTS30 and BTS21? I ask because the BTS30 is a very basic saw that doesn't look a bit like the BTS21. Either way, I had the older BTS with the sliding miter table and found it to be a disadvantage rather than a feature as it was notoriously inaccurate. I sold it and bought a used contractor style saw that is heavy enough that I don't have to weigh it down to keep it still while I rip pieces through it.

What kind of work are you doing with your saw? That answer might better help us help you.

Mac


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Like Mr. Mac, I'm wondering if you'd be better off with a full size stationary saw that has a belt drive induction motor (the kind that usually has the motor hanging out the back...aka "contractor saw"). Unless you NEED portability or really can't spare the space, the belt drive full size saws have the lion's share of mechanical and performance advantages over a small direct drive saw with a universal motor. There's a lot more operating space in front of the blade, they're heavier and much more stable, have more torque, are much quieter, can be easily upgraded, are more reliable, retain value better, and are cheaper to fix if there's a problem. 

A good used contractor saw would be a more prudent purchase IMHO. Saws like this one often go in the $150-$250 range:


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## hotrod351 (Apr 13, 2011)

i really dont use it much. i just installed some redwood railing and balusters on my deck, had to rip down a bunch of 2" X 4". wont be doing that again, no need, i dont do it for a living, i do roofing. the thing is that my old saw broke the gears in the motor so i needed a saw. home depot gave me $100.00 off any tool for singing up for a commercial account. needed a saw so checked them out. dont really need a high dollar unit. thing is i saw the ryobi and figured it would do the job. problem is that the display is the 21 and the boxed ones are the 30. i just figured the fact the 21 had adjustments on two of the legs, and a sliding miter was a benefit. i know ryobi is cheap but for my use its good enough. just like to know if you were offered one of these saws for free which would be the one to choose.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Mind you, I have the older BT3100 (nice saw with some quirks). IF I were to chose from the BTS21, and the newer RTS30, I would go with the 30 as it has miter slots instead of the sliding miter table, and it appears to have a riving knife which is a HUGE safety feature! 

My first Ryobi table saw was a BTS21, and even though I love the sliding miter table on my BT3100, the BTS21 I could never get lined up straight... Not worth the effort... I am not sure how you would align blade to miter slot on that RTS30, but if somebody gave me one, I would try to figure it out...


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## hotrod351 (Apr 13, 2011)

well i broke down and bought the ridgid R4510. much better quality. a lot of adjustments, which can be a bit of a pain. anyway the first thing i noticed was the soft start, nice to have that, and the lifetime warranty, thats a good thing. cost me $200.00 more than the ryobi but i feel it was worth it. after all the ryobi only comes with a 2 years warranty. and i really didnt like the plastic gears that rise and lower the blade. even my cheap pro-tech and a metal screw and metal block to rise and lower it. any way its a done deal and i think ill be real happy with it.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

That's a good saw. I bet you'll be happy with it for a long time...


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Sounds like a good investment. You'll be less likely to be in the same boat anytime soon. Enjoy!


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## hotrod351 (Apr 13, 2011)

thats what i figured. life time warranty. worse case, if i keep it nice, in 10 years i can sell it for at least 1/2 of what i paid.


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## hotrod351 (Apr 13, 2011)

well had to go out and cut something. now im not a complete novice to this but it was kind of scary, i was cutting 2" off a couple of 2" X 2" redwood slat. set the fence at 2" and away i went. well the pieces shot back at me. figured they might so i stood to the side. the blade that came with the saw is a 28 tooth so i swapped in a 60 tooth id bought for my old pro-tech, sure made a huge difference. im thinking the 28 tooth is for cutting, well i really dont know what its meant to cut. but it does seem that you have to concentrate a lot more when using this saw. sure have to respect it more.


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## <*(((>< (Feb 24, 2010)

hotrod351 said:


> well had to go out and cut something. now im not a complete novice to this but it was kind of scary, i was cutting 2" off a couple of 2" X 2" redwood slat. set the fence at 2" and away i went. well the pieces shot back at me. figured they might so i stood to the side. the blade that came with the saw is a 28 tooth so i swapped in a 60 tooth id bought for my old pro-tech, sure made a huge difference. im thinking the 28 tooth is for cutting, well i really dont know what its meant to cut. but it does seem that you have to concentrate a lot more when using this saw. sure have to respect it more.


Where you using the fence and miter gauge at the same time. If so that is a big no-no. If this is the case what happened is the fence and miter used together can put a piece in a bind, causing pieces to potentially become projectiles. 

Generally speaking:
Miter gauge = crosscutting
Fence = ripping

It sounds like you work around tools often, but just thought i would throw that out there.


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## hotrod351 (Apr 13, 2011)

ok thats the problem. im learning. most of my sawing has been done with a framing saw and a 14" hand held gas concrete saw for tile roofs. nothing i like more than to buy a good tool. i built a couple redwood decks, price of redwood has really went up. cost me damn near as much to do 35' of railing, 2" X 4" ripped down the middle, and a 2" X 6" top rail with 45 degree angled, then it cost to build the deck, ofcourse i built the deck about 15 years ago. did one deck using a pro-tech, 95% for ripping the 2" X 4". i use it around my place on and off for years, but it broke the gears in the drive when i started on my rails, so i bought he ryobi. it did the job but is really a cheap saw. figured it wouldnt last me that long and for $200.00 more i could have the ridgid, thats the one i wanted to begin with. i do remember now that you have to have a lot of respect for these wood working tools. my 14" concrete saw can get near your foot or leg and you dont have to worry, diamond blade might rub your shoe and give you a little cut on your leg, but thats it. its like when i use my framing saw i have to keep a better eye on things. added question, the 60 tooth blade i have then would be good for crosscutting and the 28 tooth then would be good for ripping, right ?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

You'll also want to make sure that the fence and blade are aligned as closely as you can get them. Be sure the riving knife is aligned as well. Your new saw will only be as good as the alignment and blade. A new blade or two might help optimize your investment....I know, more money to spend, but you'll want to get the most from the extra $200 you've invested. Another $40 or so might be in order. 

A 60T blade would typically be regarded as a crosscut blade, but it depends on the actual geometry of the blade. Some 60T blades have a steeper hook angle and can actually rip up to 1" material or so. What brand and model is it? 

The stock blade is probably best reserved for junk wood. You can do a lot with a decent 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blade, or you can buy two separate "specialty" blades like a 24T ripper and 60T or 80T crosscut blade. Something like the Freud Diablo D1040X (~ $30), D1050 (~ $40), Ridgid Titanium R1050C (by Freud - ~ $40), CMT ITK Plus (~ $40), or the DeWalt Precision Trim DW7140PT (~ $31) are all solid performers for a variety of tasks, and will rip pretty well upwards of 1-1/2" (maybe more). Specialty blades like the Freud Diablo D1024 for thicker ripping (~ $27) is a good mate to a crosscut blade like the D1060, D1080, Ridgid R1060C, or CMT ITK Plus P10080 (all < $50). (The D1060X and R1060C are two that will also rip cleanly and fairly efficiently in upwards of 5/4" material, and are good crosscut and plywood blades). There are many other terrific blades, but these are all readily available at HD or Lowes, and are considered good bangs for the buck. Good luck!

p.s.: Keep your blades clean and they'll perform better and last longer.


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

hotrod351 said:


> ok thats the problem. im learning.


Don't feel bad, many people here have made that same mistake! My son was the latest victim around here and I told him to not to!


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## hotrod351 (Apr 13, 2011)

a lot of good information on this site, thanks


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## dans65 (Feb 26, 2016)

will the rip fence on bts30 fit a bts21


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Good choice. Had a bad experience with Ryobi and HD.


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