# tip for drilling steel



## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

drilling through a piece of quarter inch steel without a drill press used to be a long process for me. start with a good 1/8" bit and some lube. slowly get that first hole through. then graduate to the size needed. 

but today, i was finally putting an outfeed on my table saw and i needed to drill through the angle iron. luckily i remembered a trick i used a few weeks ago. i had grabbed some self tapping panel screws an used them to start holes in 1/2" thick square tubing. yes 1/2" thick. so they worked easily in the angle iron. in fact i used the same screw for three holes. and it took all of 30 seconds. using an impact driver is nice but is not absolutely necessary. i would have been there for at least 10 minutes using some dull bit if i had gone the other route. 

anyway, i hope this helps someone else with what can sometimes be a frustrating job. and of course, here is the proof:


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Learning twist drill geometry and how to sharpen them seems to be a dying subject.We sharpen them free-hand on a 6x48 sander.....as a daily,matter of course.

Part of the problem is the metal you're trying to drill.Old bed frame angle is wierd stuff....as is some of the pac-rim angle/tubing(typically a metalurgy hodge-podge).Another thing is slow N steady WRT the rpm and feed rate.BW


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You must have some dull drill bits if a self tapping screw cuts better.

I recently bought some Hitachi drill bits and they were terrible right of the box.

George


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## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

BWSmith said:


> Learning twist drill geometry and how to sharpen them seems to be a dying subject.We sharpen them free-hand on a 6x48 sander.....as a daily,matter of course.BW


BW, is there a thread that goes over this process? i would love to hear some more about it.


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## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> You must have some dull drill bits if a self tapping screw cuts better.
> 
> I recently bought some Hitachi drill bits and they were terrible right of the box.
> 
> George


yeah. not the best bits. in fact i believe they are hitachi. but i don't think i have ever drilled through steel this fast with a twist bit. even a nice one.


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## Gary0855 (Aug 3, 2010)

Gus,
Your right about the self-tapping screws. I have done my share of door hardware and have used a lot of them. Now they don't last very long but they are not made to last. One and done.

Having said that, a good HHS drill bit, not one that's chrome!!!!!, will last a long time if properly used. As with the SPS, they don't last forever and need to be sharpened from time to time. I always tell the young guys as long as the metal shavings are flying out of the hole, it's cutting, when that stops, so do you, and sharpen the bit.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

A good, sharp drill bit, the correct RPM, and correct lube will put a hole through 1/4" plate in no time. 

Sharpening a twist bit is easy, but IMO, it needs to be taught, hands on.

Also, a Drill Dr. works very well. I will sharpen a few by hand, but when I have 15-20 to do, it's the Drill Dr's job


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Sharpening bits by hand*

I was taught how years ago. I use a Craftsman sharpening guide for larger than 3/16" up to 1", unfortunately it's been years since I've seen one like I have. Modified of course. :yes: bill
Hurray! I found one on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/G1081-Drill-Sha...352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a7309740

Here's a video for hand sharpening:


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

http://www.icscuttingtools.com/the-champ/drill_point_geometry.pdf


Heres one guy's idea......decent read.BW


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Brink said:


> A good, sharp drill bit, the correct RPM, and correct lube will put a hole through 1/4" plate in no time.
> 
> Sharpening a twist bit is easy, but IMO, it needs to be taught, hands on.
> 
> Also, a Drill Dr. works very well. I will sharpen a few by hand, but when I have 15-20 to do, it's the Drill Dr's job


+1. Looks like you are drilling a table saw fence rail. A good sharp bit on slow speed with lubricant should go through quickly. Care has to be taken when the bit starts to break through that it can catch and twist your wrist like you can't believe. You can clamp a block of wood to the backside.












 







.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> +1. Looks like you are drilling a table saw fence rail. A good sharp bit on slow speed with lubricant should go through quickly. Care has to be taken when the bit starts to break through that it can catch and twist your wrist like you can't believe. You can clamp a block of wood to the backside.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had to put 25, 3/4" holes through 1" plate. Of course, doing it in increments, was like 75 holes drilled. Using a Milwaukee gear drive 1/2" drill, when it caught, it would wrap your arms up, then spin your whole body...what a way to make a living


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> I was taught how years ago. I use a Craftsman sharpening guide for larger than 3/16" up to 1", unfortunately it's been years since I've seen one like I have. Modified of course. :yes: bill
> Hurray! I found one on Ebay:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/G1081-Drill-Sha...352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a7309740
> 
> Here's a video for hand sharpening: YouTube - ‪How to Sharpen Tools : Sharpening a Drill Bit‬‏


I used to have one of those sharpening guides and did not like. I think it went in a garage sale some years ago. I found I could do a better job just hand held. My father taught me how to do that.

It has now been so long I am not sure I could sharpen a bit. I need to go to the garage and "sharpen" my skills.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I know that feeling*



Brink said:


> I had to put 25, 3/4" holes through 1" plate. Of course, doing it in increments, was like 75 holes drilled. Using a Milwaukee gear drive 1/2" drill, when it caught, it would wrap your arms up, then spin your whole body...what a way to make a living


I had to make some 1 1/4" holes in 3/8" plate for a fork lift frame for my tractor...1/2" Craftsman drill, electronic speed reducer about 100 RPM and a dead man foot switch. Incremental drill sizes from 1/4" pilot to full size. Scary.

What were you makin' a bridge? :laughing: bill


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> I had to make some 1 1/4" holes in 3/8" plate for a fork lift frame for my tractor...1/2" Craftsman drill, electronic speed reducer about 100 RPM and a dead man foot switch. Incremental drill sizes from 1/4" pilot to full size. Scary.
> 
> What were you makin' a bridge? :laughing: bill


Mounting belly pans on a wheel loader.


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