# King Seeley Craftsman table saw



## portcitybone (Feb 23, 2013)

I purchased a Craftsman table saw on Craig's list for $50, Craftsman/King Seeley saw (103.22160). A few months ago I purchased a beautifully refurbished vintage Delta jointer, and thought I might be able to do the same to this saw. However, I am a rookie.

I have 2 questions I could really use some help with:

1.) I have the saw disassembled. I don't want to completely dismantle the gears, etc., as there are a number of spring tensioned bolts I don't want to re-set. My question is - Can I soak the entire cluster (the whole thing attaches under the table with 4 bolts) in some kind of solution that would clean/lubricate the parts? If so - what solvent would work?

2.) There is a bracket that's broken, that I believe turns the motor when the saw is beveled - turns the motor so the belt doesn't twist. Photos I've seen of this look like it's just a pin that rotates the motor. I'm not going to ever use this saw to bevel. Would any of you know if it's ok just to forget about this bracket - because - according to other things I've read, it can't be replaced.

Appreciate your help. And yes, I surely got in over my head. Not the first time.....


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

You would need a large volume of solvent to be able to dip the entire table - and an equally large container.

I would not try dipping.

Kerosine or mineral spirits is good for removing grease/grime, but will not do much for lubrication. You could brush this on with a stiff parts brush.

I would then follow-up with spraying WD-40. Good to remove remaining residue and leave a protective surface.

For lubrication I would use a dry lubricant. I have DuPont Multi-Use Dry Lubricant with Teflon. Also popular with the motor cycle crowd who also want lubrication without dirt getting stuck in the lubricant.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm

Sorry cannot help with the bracket question.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*solvent!*

Mineral spirits will dissolve old gunk. Use a plastic tub about 5" deep and a stiff brush. Then blow it out with compressed air. Let it air dry. Then use a dry lube, not an oil based product that will collect dust and gum up again. I use Gibbasize for lots of lubricating and rust preventing tasks, available online or at gunshows.

As far as the broken part, EBay has a large turnover of Craftsman table saw parts. A picture will help to give you advice. I had an old saw and the screw and hand crank didn't work for tilt, so I just moved it by hand and locked in position. For the few times it was OK. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...=craftsman+table+saw+parts&_sacat=0&_from=R40

If you remove the "carriage" containing the trunnions, height screw, tilt screw and arbor from the saw table you'll have to realign it after cleaning, not too bad of a project, but it must be done right. Take photos as you go. Post them here.


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## portcitybone (Feb 23, 2013)

*appreciation*

Thanks to both for the excellent advice. Much appreciated, especially the dry lubricant suggestions and reminder to re-align!


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## daddydodson (May 12, 2014)

*king seeley*



portcitybone said:


> Thanks to both for the excellent advice. Much appreciated, especially the dry lubricant suggestions and reminder to re-align!


king-seeley made great wood working machines you are very lucky to have one to restore. i just bought a king-seeley scroll saw made for craftsman and i love using it good luck on restoreing it


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

I think that dipping the entire saw in any sort of solvent, even something as inexpensive as mineral spirits, would be prohibitively expensive. If the action is rusty and thats what you want to get rid of, id recommend looking at electrolysis. Cheap and easy, the most expensive thing is a power supply if you dont already have one. If its dirt, grease and grime youre trying to get out of the gears, my usual method is to get a low-viscosity oil on there and work the action a lot. Keep adding lubricant, keep working the action until the dripping oil carries the majority of the grime with it. Any crap left that isnt in the path of the gears you could take a compressor hose and blast it off, but i usually stop when the mechanism is cleaned and moves smooth. Anything on, say, the sides of the gear i dont see the point in removing. It aint hurtin no one after all


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