# Make wooden inserts for SawStop Table Saw



## StevenWoodward (Aug 14, 2020)

The bottom of a SawStop insert is difficult to replicate in a shop made wooden insert. 

If we limit the application to vertical cuts, and exclude maximum height of the blade, then the insert becomes much simpler, and still works most of the time.

Wooden inserts have the advantage of zero clearance around the blade. Also they are quick to make and low cost so you can have one for each dado width.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Steven - I like your videos and your ideas are great. Thank you for sharing them.

Nice job on your SawStop insert instructions. I am sure a lot of people will find them useful and make their own zero clearance inserts. Here are a few (hopefully) helpful comments:

* Another way to shape the inserts would be to use a router with a flush trim router bit. You can use the SawStop insert as the model, but you would have to place it on a pedestal so the front hooks hang down. Personally, I would make a "master pattern" from wood, then use it as the template for future inserts.

* I would use a keyhole router bit to cut two slots underneath the back end of the insert. The slots would fit around the two screws at the end of the insert hole, and prevent the back of the insert from lifting up. Keep the insert relatively flat and push the slots over the screw heads, then let the front of the insert drop in place. Drill small holes through the top of the insert so you can use an Allen wrench through the holes to raise and lower the SawStop screws to level the back of the insert. I saw this design on the Infinity Tools throat plate for SawStop.

* The problem with using an 8 inch blade to start the slot for the 10 inch blade is that the kerf of the 8 inch blade must match or be wider than the 10 inch blade you are using. Instead, I would use a router or a dado stack to cut a non-through relief slot on the underside of the insert, to leave space for the 10 inch blade to fit before raising it. Measure the distance between the table surface and the top of the fully-lowered 10 inch blade to determine how much clearance you need. (If I were doing "B", I would count how many cranks of the blade raising handle it takes to achieve the right "depth" of the relief slot, then write it down for future inserts.

* The reason for the full slot in the back is so you can install the insert for use with the splitter that has the anti-kickback pawls and blade guard attached. Otherwise you would have to install the insert, raise the splitter through the truncated slot in the insert, and then attach the anti-kickback pawls and blade guard to the splitter. Besides, if you cut the slot all the way to the back, it is easy to do it on the saw with the rip fence, rather than a separate router table.

* When I wrote the procedure for the Bosch REAXX inserts, I didn't bother with tapping the wood for the set screws used to level the insert. I learned that the set screws do a good enough job of making their own threads. They are tight and secure on their own. See:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/thr...w-make-your-own-zero-clearance-insert.196969/


_An Alternate Solution - Zero Clearance Throat Plate with Replaceable Inserts from Infinity Tools:_

With the Bosch REAXX, I made my own inserts, just as you do. When I replaced the REAXX with a SawStop cabinet saw, I bought an aluminum throat plate with replaceable inner inserts from Infinity tools. The replaceable inner inserts are 4 for $15.90, or you can make your own. I posted a detailed review of their redesigned throat plate with replaceable inner inserts a few days ago in this thread:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/thr...ceable-inserts-for-sawstop-table-saws.225337/
https://www.infinitytools.com/sawstop-zero-clearance-throat-plate-with-two-inserts-4758


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