# Walnut finishing



## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

Whats the best way to make the grain pop with kiln dryed walnut. I have heard people say that kiln drying walnut makes the grain muddy looking but I didnt want to air dry 2 inch thick slabs. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to finishing walnut?


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Blo then varnish and then pumice or rottenstone


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

pwoller said:


> Whats the best way to make the grain pop with kiln dryed walnut. I have heard people say that kiln drying walnut makes the grain muddy looking but I didnt want to air dry 2 inch thick slabs. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to finishing walnut?


The finish might depend on what the project is. What are you going to do with it?












 







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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

End table


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I have kiln dried plenty of walnut & I never notice any lightening. What does that is in a commercial kiln where they steam it at the end of the cycle to give a little moisture back & relieve the last of the stress. 

I never use stain with walnut, just clear coat it with Poly or BLO or shellac or whatever mood I'm in, or whatever can is handiest depending on the use. Cabinetman & others have a bunch more finishing experience than me let's see what they says. 








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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I treat Walnut a lot like Cherry, no stain. All of my finishes I consider a maintenance free finish. IOW, the client needs to do nothing to maintain the finish other than just dusting /cleaning.

What works pretty good is a 50/50 mix of BLO and Naptha. Wipe on wipe off in 5-10 minutes. When very dry apply either a wiping version of oil base varnish, or to spray lacquer if you spray lacquer, or waterbase polyurethane, which I prefer. Shellac is nice, but I don't consider it durable enough, IMO.












 







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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

*Thanks*



cabinetman said:


> I treat Walnut a lot like Cherry, no stain. All of my finishes I consider a maintenance free finish. IOW, the client needs to do nothing to maintain the finish other than just dusting /cleaning.
> 
> What works pretty good is a 50/50 mix of BLO and Naptha. Wipe on wipe off in 5-10 minutes. When very dry apply either a wiping version of oil base varnish, or to spray lacquer if you spray lacquer, or waterbase polyurethane, which I prefer. Shellac is nice, but I don't consider it durable enough, IMO.
> 
> ...


Do you have any pics of the mix of blo and naptha on walnut? I'd really like to see how it looks. Thanks for the suggestions.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

If you are not in California, Minwax Antique Oil Finish is probably the easiest to use and gives outstanding results. The MAOF cures in a day and can be given a second coat. Although MAOF can be coated with oil or WB poly in a day or two, I usually wait about a week.

As I said, MAOF and poly produce an outstanding finish on walnut.


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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

rrich said:


> If you are not in California, Minwax Antique Oil Finish is probably the easiest to use and gives outstanding results. The MAOF cures in a day and can be given a second coat. Although MAOF can be coated with oil or WB poly in a day or two, I usually wait about a week.
> 
> As I said, MAOF and poly produce an outstanding finish on walnut.


I'm not really looking for the easiest finish, since the table top is on display constantly and the figureing is outstanding. I'm looking for a finish that reall brings out the grain. I'm not against putting some elbow grease into it.


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## cowboy dan (Apr 11, 2010)

minwax poly urethane aerosol does pretty good. i like 3- 4 coats. one tip... always spray the final coat with a full can


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## Geoguy (Feb 22, 2008)

I agree with several of the others - clear poly on walnut is great - it's simple, beautiful, and very durable. I've also used amber shelac followed by lacquer with good results. The shelac really enhances the grain and the lacquer adds some durability.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

pwoller said:


> Do you have any pics of the mix of blo and naptha on walnut? I'd really like to see how it looks. Thanks for the suggestions.


I had to go through some boxes of pictures, but I found a cabinet I did back in the 70's when I was using lacquer. I thought this cabinet was going to be a gun cabinet, only to find out that it was for a display of over 350 antique salt and pepper shakers...what a disappointment.

Anyway the finish on this one is a BLO and Naptha mix, that got a lacquer topcoat. To me it turned out real nice as you could feel how smooth the finish was but feel the texture of the wood. Not a plastic feel. 
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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

Very nice cabinet.


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## cowboy dan (Apr 11, 2010)

i can totally see a sewing machine... must be from the 70s...lol. looks more suited for guns, but the walnut is not as dark, what species of walnut is it?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cowboy dan said:


> i can totally see a sewing machine... must be from the 70s...lol. looks more suited for guns, but the walnut is not as dark, what species of walnut is it?


It's American Black Walnut. It may not look dark as the picture is old and could be washed out some. Sometimes it's dark, and then sometimes it's not.:smile:









 







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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> It's American Black Walnut. It may not look dark as the picture is old and could be washed out some. Sometimes it's dark, and then sometimes it's not.:smile:
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> ...


That a great looking cabinet. I like it alot.


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## Fudwrecker (Jan 27, 2011)

I'm about to build my first hardwood project and I'm using walnut.
I hope this question not too stupid.....what is BLO?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Fudwrecker said:


> I'm about to build my first hardwood project and I'm using walnut.
> I hope this question not too stupid.....what is BLO?


BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil.












 







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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Fudwrecker said:


> I'm about to build my first hardwood project and I'm using walnut.
> I hope this question not too stupid.....what is BLO?


Since you may eventually use BLO make sure not to leave any rags you used it with lying around. Rags soaked with BLO can spontaneously combust under certain circumstances. 

Sounds crazy but it's true. I use BLO often and when I'm done I put the rags in a ziploc bag and squish the air our of the bag, seal it, then also tape it shut and throw them in my dumpster. Before I had a dumpster I would put them in a folgers can with water in it.









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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

I have actually had this happen. I have a friend that left a sponge with BLO on it in my garage. I woke up to a house full of smoke and found the sponge chared and smoking still.


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## cowboy dan (Apr 11, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 yea, it's like crack but it's for wood


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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I used minwax antique oil finish and it is everything you guys said and more! Awesome product.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

pwoller-Come on now where are the pictures. You have us drooling over the figured walnut and no pics.:blink:


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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

I havent finished it completly but I will get better pics soon. Do I need to use poly over the MAOF?


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

That's quite an End Table!

Beautiful!


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Looks Great!!


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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

Its a coffee table but I have more wood coming out of the kiln to make a dining table and a couple end tables.


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