# Half Laps On Router Table



## Crick07 (Nov 14, 2012)

I need to make about 25 half laps in 1-1/2" x 3" inch Douglas Fir using a router table and was wondering what the best approach would be without getting overly complex with fancy jigs and such. I am relatively new on a router table.

I don't want to sound like I am over-thinking it but just want some feedback/help. My plan was to:

1) Set router fence to 3 inches as a stop for the shoulder

2) Use a simple MDF push block riding on the fence to push material
through

3) Start cutting on the end of the work piece with a 3/4" bit (biggest I have) and move work piece towards the fence.

4) For the last cut, make sure work piece is against fence and push block to establish a straight shoulder and repetitive along 25 separate pieces. 

This may be the way everybody does it or may not be a good way at all. I'm just looking for simple ideas. Also, I think I prefer to not use a miter gauge strictly due to the fact of having to have the fence absolutely parallel.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Crick07 said:


> I need to make about 25 half laps in 1-1/2" x 3" inch Douglas Fir using a router table and was wondering what the best approach would be without getting overly complex with fancy jigs and such. I am relatively new on a router table.
> 
> I don't want to sound like I am over-thinking it but just want some feedback/help. My plan was to:
> 
> ...


That sounds like it would work. You might do them in more than one pass though. Probably three passes. 








 







.


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

That's the way I do it too. However, if I'm using oak I pre-score the shoulders on my TS. Oak likes to bend away from the cutter leaving a frizzy edged shoulder. 80% of the time it sands away....that leaves too much to do over, IMHO!

Typically, I'll nibble at full height about 1/4" - 5/16" each pass since height is critical for half laps. But I do them quickly.

Also, since I took a pic for someone else today, you may find something like this helpful. The block is 7 X 7. Closet rod handle is held by a 3" screw, counter-bored on the bottom. All 4 edges have 1" wide rabbets, from 3/4" to 3/8" deep. Workpiece slips under the ledge and provides more control. Leading edges get a little nipped sometime, but doesn't affect the function. Enough said, here's a pic.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

Crick07 said:


> I need to make about 25 half laps in 1-1/2" x 3" inch Douglas Fir using a router table and was wondering what the best approach would be without getting overly complex with fancy jigs and such. I am relatively new on a router table.
> 
> I don't want to sound like I am over-thinking it but just want some feedback/help. My plan was to:
> 
> ...


 you may add a backer block to minimize tear out on the bit exit.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Bladrunner, your pictures look like you are showing a lock miter bit operation.

George


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## Crick07 (Nov 14, 2012)

Thanks for the tips guys. I got them cut using this method (bought a 1" straight bit). I'll put up pictures of the workbench when its completed.


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

GeorgeC said:


> Bladrunner, your pictures look like you are showing a lock miter bit operation.
> 
> George


Yes, the sample piece happened to have a lock miter edge. But the object is the push block, and that gets used for a lot of router table operations.


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