# Large pine box - glue and brads sufficient?



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

I'm building a 40" by 13" pine box, about 18" high. 3/4 pine. I'll use Titebond 3 and shoot in brads. Box will be a shoe box for the mud room and a seat. Should I also use screws?

Thank you


----------



## wwinsauer (Dec 7, 2010)

Don't underestimate the power of PVA glue. IE Tightbond.
Tightbond III has a little less power than II but it is more water proof.

Your brads will basically hold everything together for a faster glue up but the glue will be doing all of the work.

Try not to use screws and only use brads if a faster or easier glue up is necessary. Pine is very soft and expands and contracts greatly depending on temperature and humidity. metal does not. Therefore the less metal you use the more successful your pine project will be.

I use a lot of seriously weather beaten reclaimed pine to make a lot of projects. It can be a very difficult material.

Also, since you are using 3/4" pine (which again is very soft) you may want to consider some bracing along the inside. Probably not 100% necessary but since people may be sitting on it you may want to think about how your box will handle the stresses of everyday use.


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Are you describing a box with a hinged lid?

Or an open front box?


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

Ok, I'll use TB II, thank you. 

It's a hinged box.

As for support, I plan to brace the inside of the top with 1 x 1s or thereabouts that I'll mill from 2x4s. Glue and nail.

I'll also add rails to the inside of the top as the pine I use is small pieces glued together. I've had failure before with this.


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

wsommariva said:


> As for support, I plan to brace the inside of the top with 1 x 1s or thereabouts that I'll mill from 2x4s. Glue and nail.
> 
> .


If you are running cleats across the grain of the top, you need to allow for top movement.

Slotted cleats with screws, no glue. :yes:


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

Slotted cleats it is. I always use sheetrock screws. Ok in this instance?


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

wsommariva said:


> Slotted cleats it is. I always use sheetrock screws. Ok in this instance?


 
Proly be ok, but DW screws are very brittle.

I prefer a good wood screw. :yes:


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

I've never had good luck buying large wood screws. They would break. What is a good brand?


----------



## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

wsommariva said:


> I've never had good luck buying large wood screws. They would break. What is a good brand?


 
http://www.mcfeelys.com/?src=M7GLMC...||5952754165&gclid=CJfg3Jzp3KUCFcjsKgodA1VX5Q


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

Thank you, I'll check that site.

I'm all set for this "easy" project.


----------



## wwinsauer (Dec 7, 2010)

:thumbsup: Good luck!
And post some pics when the dust starts flyin!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I would use dadoes and rabbets for the joinery, and any yellow wood glue would be fine. For screws, coarse thread flat head screws, either phillips or square drive. 

Drill pilot hole, and countersink. Drive screws with a cordless on slow speed (has more torque than electric drills on slow speed). When close to tight, bump the trigger to tighten. Spinning screws fast can snap them or cause over spinning, losing thread grip. 












 









.


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

I was thinking of using rabbit dado joints as I've done them before successfully. If I do use them with wood glue, would I still need brads and/or screws? I'd rather not have any nail or screw holes showing


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

Wood selection question. I was planning on buying pine boards from Lowes made of narrow pieces glued together. 

Should I buy 1 X 6 pine stock instead and do my own laminating? I do not have a joiner.

Thanks


----------



## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

wwinsauer said:


> Don't underestimate the power of PVA glue. IE Tightbond.
> Tightbond III has a little less power than II but it is more water proof.


Tightbonds own web site rates III with a higher psi rating than II. Both are excellent but III will leave a darker glue line if that matters.


----------

