# Danish Oil Question



## Geoguy (Feb 22, 2008)

I'm wraping up a white oak night stand and was planning to finish it with medium walnut Danish oil followed by a few coats of polyurathane (sorry, don't have any photos of the piece, just finished the assembly last night). However, I read somewhere recently that a good finish can be achieved using a minimum of three coats of Danish oil followed by wax. Any thoughts or suggestions by some of you guys with more experience using Danish oil?

Hey, thanks in advance for any input.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

Yes, a beautiful finish can be attained with just oil and wax. I would suggest applying the oil and then wet sanding it in with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Then wipe it off. Wait a couple of days before waxing, and wipe down several times between the final oiling and the waxing.

HOWEVER, you need to realize that this is NOT a finish which provides much protection from moisture. If, for instance, you plan to have a beverage glass on the nightstand, you should definitely use a coaster. Any spills could cause the grain to raise. At the same time, such a thing is easy to fix. Just sand it lightly and reapply a coat of oil to the top. Wax again after drying. 

I would comment that a few coats of danish oil, then a few coats of polyurethane seems redundant to me. I can see applying the medium walnut oil for the color, then the poly over that for protection. I'm not sure what's to be gained with THREE coats of oil before the poly. But maybe there's something there I'm not aware of.

Another alternative is this finish: equal portions of boiled linseed oil, tung oil, satin spar varnish, and lacquer thinner. Mix it well and apply as you would the danish oil.(after a good coat of the med. walnut for the color.) This has the virtue of penetrating into the wood, but after the 2nd coat, it actually provides some sealing capability , also. It's a pretty finish. If interested, try it on a test piece first to see how you like it.


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## Geoguy (Feb 22, 2008)

Thanks, Mark, good advice.
The piece is being built for my 16-year old son, so I'll likely use the poly for maximum protection (there's no telling what will come in contact with the top of a nightstand in a 16-year old's room). Coaster? What's that?

I'm starting the matching dresser this weekend.
Thanks,
Terry


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

A very unusual finish. If I read it correctly 25% each BLO.tung oil,spar varnish and lacquer thinner ?.

Jerry


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jerry said:


> A very unusual finish. If I read it correctly 25% each BLO.tung oil,spar varnish and lacquer thinner ?.
> 
> Jerry



Ditto your thoughts. Actually, "danish oil finish" being a retail hype to a very easy mix of oil (BLO or Tung), varnish, and mineral spirits, would not be necessary for an interior finish under oil base polyurethane. A very easy finish could be a wipe on oil base stain (if a stain is wanted), and a wipe on oil base polyurethane. No need to do an oil then poly, unless the attempt is to visually enhance the grain in some way.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

jerry said:


> A very unusual finish. If I read it correctly 25% each BLO.tung oil,spar varnish and lacquer thinner ?.
> 
> Jerry


This finish formula came to me from a shop in Seattle. The story is, I was hired by a woman to build some bookcases for her, solid cherry, full wall. She used to live in Seattle and had some furniture made by a custom shop, there. She wanted the same finish which was on the furniture. It was, indeed, a beautiful looking finish. So I contacted the shop and explained the situation, and they gave me this formula, which they use. I have been very satisfied with it, and so have my customers. 

I know there are a lot of different formulas out there that produce beautiful finishes. But I got this one early on in my learning about finishes, and I've never had a good reason to try another, I guess.(at least, as far as a wipe-on penetrating finish goes)


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

cabinetman said:


> A very easy finish could be a wipe on oil base stain (if a stain is wanted), and a wipe on oil base polyurethane. No need to do an oil then poly, unless the attempt is to visually enhance the grain in some way.


Cabinetman: I agree with you on that. At the same time, I have, once or twice, used the Watco tinted oils as my 'stain' because I like the clarity of color they tend to give, better than I like many of the stains I have tried. Since I don't do much staining anyway, I've never invested the cash into trying out the numerous different stains and dyes available, say, through Rockler or Woodcraft. But what's available locally is largely limited to Minwax, Benmoore, Varathane, and Pratt & Lambert. I haven't liked the results of those too well. Too muddy, by & large. Especially if you sand only to 150 or 220 to enhance stain absorption.


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