# New at turning?



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Help. I recently finished this GOOGLE locomotive. It is wood, bondo, and paint. I gave it to our son, and now want to make it again only out of solid walnut. 

I have a Jet JWL-1236 VS lathe. I have used it just a couple times, so very new at such.

I have a chunk of walnut 5-1/2" X 5-1/2" X 22" that was cut and put in hay loft over 60 years ago. Actually it was 3-1/2" X 20" X 72" B4 I ripped it. I glued up two pieces to get a chunk 5-1/2". Pictures coming. 

I need to turn it into a 4-1/2" dowel rod so to speak. I will then slice it down the middle to make the top of another locomotive like pictured. 

I wonder how I am going to keep it at the 4-1/2" O.D. straight for the 22" span. Is there a method/jig so to speak that will aid me in such? I have a caliper, but need some direction.......If only I had a table feed, hehehe, like a metal lathe.

I will ask questions on the front wheel in another post, I did turn the one pictured on my lathe, so have a bit of experience. 

Since this is going to be a NOT PAINTED piece, I can't screw up and cover with bondo and paint.

I'm a detail person, but need some lathe directions from you all.

You can't OFFEND me, so fire away.... 

Thank You,

Dale in Indy

P.S. This locomotive is 30" long.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*new*

Here are some shots of my turning the front wheel of the locomotive pictured. As you can see it used my band saw to cut away some of the material B4 turning. I had cut the diameter on the band saw too, got it close to proper OD. 

You can see I didn't use a face plate, and with this hardwood I would certainly think I will need to. I DON'T have a chuck. 

I then cut out the top right 1/4 of such out, and glued in the top long piece. I plan on doing the same with the walnut, but may make my joint between the front wheel, and long top, PRONOUNCED. Maybe.....

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Here are the pieces I need to turn. The 4-1/2" X 22" will come out of the middle of these two glued pieces. I will rip closer to size, and run through the band saw to get closer to OD B4 putting in lathe.

The big square chunk ( bottom pic ) will have the center drilled for the head light right where the growth rings meet. 

Dale in Indy


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Ideally if you are going to saw it down the middle I would have glued it together with a paper joint. Then it can be split at the joint by just riving a knife down through the paper. for safety sake if you turn it round before sawing either leave square ends on each end or glue them on later. It can rock on you quite easily when sawing.
To get the cylinder accurate use a parting tool and some calipers to cut down close to the 4 1/2" size. Do this about every inch. Then just waste away wood with a spindle roughing gouge until you can just barely see the marks left from the spindle gouge. If your good with the tool just keep going until it's all the right size. My dad wasn't that good of a turner so he would use his 3 1/2" belt sander at this stage to get it down to size and straight. I use a skew to do that but then I have a lot of years of experience.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, that's making good sense to me. I will square up the ends, and since my piece is approx. 3" longer than needed, such will work to leave the ends square. 

I had thought of the belt sander too. I have a Porter Cable small one hand belt sander that I love, plus a big 4" unit, so will consider that. I have made up some very long ridged blocks for sanding, and they work great for keeping things straight. I can dust with some paint to show me my highs, and lows, but probably won't need to do such. 

Any tips on the front wheel? I plan on making a sheet metal pattern to check my curve, NOT a 1/2 piece like my picture shows, maybe I will make half and full patterns. When I finished turning the wheel, I will need to drill a 4" hole through the middle, last time I used a 4" drywall ceiling can saw, and drilled from both sides. That was a bit tricky in that the saw drilling from both sides still didn't cut all the way through. Thinking about using the lather to do some of that removal. Tips???

Thank You,

Dale in Indy


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

What turning tools have you been using?

It seems like you are doing a lot of extra work on the the bandsaw to make the wheels. It shouldn't take more than just a few minutes starting from square blocks and using a spindle roughing gouge to shape the wheel profile on the lathe (assuming that the wheels will have the same grain orientation as the upper body).

John Lucas has some excellent YouTube videos. Even though you are just a beginner at turning, this is a fairly simple procedure and with a little practice on some scrap lumber you ought to be able to do it fairly quickly. John described a procedure in his earlier post for keeping the cylinder diameter constant using a parting tool and calipers. With a little practice, you ought to be able to get it nearly perfect and only need some light hand sanding. The main thing is to first practice on some scrap lumber. Nobody does things perfectly the first time on the lathe and you don't want to do your practicing on that nice walnut.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

smithbrother said:


> .... When I finished turning the wheel, I will need to drill a 4" hole through the middle....


You can drill the hole on the lathe if you have something to hold the wheels -- a faceplate and waste block or chuck. You will need a Jacobs chuck with a #2 Morse taper. If you have a drill press, you might be able to borrow that one depending on the design of your drill press. If not, they're pretty cheap. If your standard drills are not long enough, you can get an extra long drill bit. You might need to order one or find a local industrial tool supplier.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Is my SPUR CENTER all I need to hold my 4-1/2" X 22" straight piece while turning? Of course the tail stock piece to hold the other end. 

I will use my face plate to turn the 4-1/4" wide X 7-1/2" wheel. 

Thank You, I have checked out the YouTube videos that you suggested, and they are/will be good help. 

Thank You so much,

Dale in Indy


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

smithbrother said:


> Is my SPUR CENTER all I need to hold my 4-1/2" X 22" straight piece while turning? Of course the tail stock piece to hold the other end.
> 
> I will use my face plate to turn the 4-1/4" wide X 7-1/2" wheel.
> 
> ...


Are you using a spindle roughing gouge?

You ought to be able to use a spur drive for both pieces if you are using a spindle roughing gouge. Even better would be a Stebcenter or a dead center in the spindle because the spur drive mars the wood where the spurs dig in. There is less marring with the other drives, but they require you to have a lighter touch with the spindle roughing gouge.

Let me revise what I said about the 7 1/2 inch diameter wheel -- if it is oriented so that the grain direction is perpendicular to the spin axis then do not use the spindle roughing gouge ... a bowl gouge would be the proper tool for that. If the grain is running parallel to the spin axis like the longer piece then the spindle roughing gouge will be fine.

The main thing with using the spindle roughing gouge or a bowl gouge is to make sure that the tool is oriented so that it is slicing the wood and not scraping it. If you are getting shavings and flakes then you are using them correctly. If you are getting sawdust then the tools are not being used correctly.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Bill, in post # 3 the lower picture shows the wheel I need to turn. 

It will be spinning head on like pictured, so rounded sides will be like the growth rings show, so to speak. The pictures shows the HEAD-ON view of the wheel. My face plate will be attached to the left as you look at the picture. So based on such, WHICH TOOL SHOULD I USE?

Regarding SPUR CENTER marks, they won't be an issue as I'm leaving 1" square on each end so when I split down the length I have something to hold it from twisting. I may screw a long side board to the piece to run against the fence. 

Thanks for your help,

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

My Jet came with 7-tools, 14" long in total, and they don't feel that SHARP.

Questions: 1st. My unit is VS, has 1-5 speed markings, plus FAST.
What speed should I use to start?

2nd. Should I use the largest GOUGE?

I am looking forward to my first long turn, 4-1/4" OD, X 22". I plan on starting approx. 1" in from each end. Should I start that with a PARTING tool, or maybe it doesn't make any difference?

Thank You for putting up with my questions.

Dale in Indy


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

A general rule of turning speed is diameter x RPM should be between 6000 and 9000.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Dale,

From the photo, I can see that's a Reeves Drive speed control.

One thing you must know about them is that you cannot change the speed unless it's spinning.

I learned "the hard way" :laughing: to *always* return the speed handle to the slowest setting before turning off the motor -- since it's impossible to slow it down before turning it back on again ... and it's always safe to start the lathe running too slow, but can be very dangerous to start it running too fast.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I don't have a tack, the speed indicator shows, SLOW, 1-5, and FAST.

Am I to think that # 1 is 1000 RPM? Seems then if such is true, then FAST would be in the 6000 RPM range. 

I'm going to set a tad above SLOW, and see how the large gouge works. 

I will read up on sharpening tools too, the gouges don't seem sharp to me, and even a few nicks in the large one. 

I always welcome comments, I can't be offended,

Dale in Indy


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

smithbrother said:


> I don't have a tack, the speed indicator shows, SLOW, 1-5, and FAST.
> 
> Am I to think that # 1 is 1000 RPM? Seems then if such is true, then FAST would be in the 6000 RPM range.


I don't think so -- check out this PDF of the MANUAL, somebody has written a list of speeds on the cover. You might want to read inside to see if they got them right!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, that is big help. I have manual, but no speeds are mentioned.

I will try 1250 and see how it works, and if I feel comfortable with such.

Dale


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

smithbrother said:


> ... o based on such, WHICH TOOL SHOULD I USE? ....


Then do NOT use the SRG (spindle roughing gouge) for that piece. A bowl gouge would be a better tool to use, but it takes some training to learn how to use one properly without getting catches. Maybe some videos would help if there is not a woodturning club nearby where you could get some mentoring.



smithbrother said:


> My Jet came with 7-tools, 14" long in total, and they don't feel that SHARP.


You can rest assured that the tools are NOT sharp. You will need to learn how to sharpen lathe tools so that they are razor sharp. I am not exaggerating. If you can shave the hair off your arms with the edge then maybe it is sharp. Isn't it amazing that one thing seems to lead to another? It's like chewing on a tough steak. The more you chew, the bigger it gets. :laughing: Same thing with turning.



smithbrother said:


> Questions: 1st. My unit is VS, has 1-5 speed markings, plus FAST. What speed should I use to start?


Start slow and increase speed until you feel nervous and then back off the speed one notch. The speed on a Reeves drive is a guessing game because it dithers around and isn't nice and smooth like a fixed pulley.



smithbrother said:


> 2nd. Should I use the largest GOUGE?


That depends. What is it? Can you post a picture? If it is the SRG and you are talking about the wheel then no. If you are talking about the long piece and the tool is an SRG then YES.



smithbrother said:


> I am looking forward to my first long turn, 4-1/4" OD, X 22". I plan on starting approx. 1" in from each end. Should I start that with a PARTING tool, or maybe it doesn't make any difference?


Since you want the ends to be left square, a parting tool is a good choice.



sawdustfactory said:


> A general rule of turning speed is diameter x RPM should be between 6000 and 9000.


A bit of clarification is needed here. First of all, the numbers 6000 and 9000 are just numbers and NOT speed. Diameter in inches times speed in RPM equals a number. This brings up the second important part of this rule of thumb -- it absolutely does not mean that the calculated number must fall between 6000 and 9000. What it means is when you multiply the diameter by the lathe speed, do NOT turn at a speed that results in a larger number. They state a range because many lathes have fixed speeds. An example would be at one pulley speed the product of diameter and speed equals 6000 and at the next higher pulley speed range the product of diameter and speed equals 9000. In this case, either of the two lathe speeds would be marginally acceptable. From a safety perspective, there is nothing to prevent you from using the slowest speed on the lathe, but from a practical perspective, things work better when turning faster. The final point about the rule of thumb is that it applies to faceplate turning and not spindle turning.



smithbrother said:


> I don't have a tack, the speed indicator shows, SLOW, 1-5, and FAST.
> 
> Am I to think that # 1 is 1000 RPM? Seems then if such is true, then FAST would be in the 6000 RPM range....


The slowest speed is probably around 500 RPM and the fastest speed is probably around 2500 RPM. You probably will need to be between 1 and 3, but start at 1 and don't go faster than you feel comfortable turning.



smithbrother said:


> I'm going to set a tad above SLOW, and see how the large gouge works.
> 
> I will read up on sharpening tools too, the gouges don't seem sharp to me, and even a few nicks in the large one.....


Sounds like a good plan, but remember don't use the SRG on the wheel. You will learn the "why" of some of these rules as you get more familiar with woodturning.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Thanks to all,,,,,,,

I'm going to stop in at my Rockler store, and get some info on a turning group, and make contact with them. 

I am/have/will watch more YouTube, I see some good stuff there, John Lucas has been nice to watch, so will keep at it. 

I will keep you posted as I move along.

Thank You,

Dale in Indy


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

smithbrother said:


> I'm going to stop in at my Rockler store, and get some info on a turning group, and make contact with them.


Another possible route to find a club ... AAW chapter finder


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I found one a few minutes ago, they are holding monthly meeting tomorrow Wed. evening, so sent them a note to confirm. Approx. 30 minutes from here, south Indy, I'm north.

Thank You,

Dale


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I made contact with one of the members here in Indy, so going to their meeting tomorrow, Wednesday evening. 

He asked me to bring some of my tools so they can look, and give me some sharpening info. 

I'm really looking forward to meeting and joining with a group. I'm going to ask if someone would be interested in coming to my shop and get me started on my equipment, we will see.....

Dale in Indy


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Dale, looks like you are on the right road ... have fun, and turn safely :thumbsup:


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I attended the woodturners meeting last night, approx. 75-80 attended. Very nice group, I had called the leader to confirm date/time and was asked to bring SHOW/TELL, so took my locomotive. 

In explaining how it was built, and WHY, I asked if anyone lived in my area that would be interested in getting me REALLY STARTED IN A SAFE MANNER.

Well LUCKY me, a fellow found me after the meeting, he lives very close, and in fact drives right by our home twice a day going to and from work. So he is eager to help, and get to know someone so close that is a wood worker TOOOOOOOOOOOO!

First thing I want is SHARPENING help, so will do that in a couple days. 

So glad I asked on this site, and THANK YOU all for your help. 

I will keep you in the LOOP.

Dale in Indy


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Excellent -- sounds like you are off to a great start :thumbsup:


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*New to Turning*

Don't LAUGH..........

Here is my walnut 5" X 24" piece B4 and after my first lesson. Pat Meyer, my new woodworker neighbor friend stopped by, showed me how to sharpen my tools.

He checked my mounting, and speed, showed me how he likes to hold the tool, and started cutting so I could see how he does it. 

I did a test of holding the tool, without turning on the lathe, then proceeded to turn it on and TURN. He suggested I start with the tool pointing more sky ward, then slowly raising the rear of the handle until it started giving me some chips, not dust. He suggested I keep the rear of the handle up against my hip, and off I went. 

So tonight I plan on finishing the piece. I will use my parting tool to dig in every inch thus giving me a close diameter to shoot for. 

He also suggested I consider a TALLER TOOL REST. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*New to Turning*

Ok, here is my FIRST turning. Walnut, 4-3/16" X 24"

At tad off in same diameter for the length, will correct that tomorrow, looks like 1/16" is about it, so will address that. 

I took my time, felt comfortable for the most part, but RESPECT the dangers that can occur, so played it safe.

I know it's NOTHING, but I'm at least started. 

I am going over to my friends shop this weekend for more teachings, so very please at this point. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*New to Turning*

Here is a picture.

Dale in Indy


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

smithbrother said:


> Here is a picture.


:thumbsup:

It's round -- you're up and running :yes:


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Now it's on to turning the front wheel of the locomotive. I will use a face plate with a wood disc so as to hole the piece approx. 3/4" away from plate. See picture in post # 1. What I just turned will be sliced length wise and will be the top of the main body. 

I will post pic's. Trust this is TOOOOOOOOO boring. I can not be offended, so comments are always welcome/needed. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*new*

Hello!

I made a face plate spacer, as I want to turn the front wheel, and the curve will wrap around, and without the spacer I would be contacting the steel face plate. 

This chuck of walnut is 8" square, by 6"+ thick.

Question: I plan on cutting off much of the corners on my band saw B4 turning, is a face plate mount the way to go, or could I just use the Spur center? Too should I use the tail stock when using the face plate, of course I would if I went the spur center route. 

It is going to be turned to 7-1/4" diameter, X 4-1/4" wide, then a 4" hole in the center. 

Comments welcome/needed.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*New to Turning*

Had a little time tonight, so started turning the front/wheel of my solid 30" walnut GOOGLE LOCOMOTIVE. 

It will be 4-1/8" wide, X 7-1/4" in diameter with a 4" hole in the center for the side panel. 

Post # 1 shows a picture of what I am making, only this one will be 
oiled walnut. 

Post # 2 shows the wheel contour I am now turning. 

I have a metal template to gauge my contour. 

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*New to Turning*

I know this is BORING to you good turners, but as this LOCOMOTIVE build progresses, I will share such with you. 

I am 95% there on the 7-1/4" X 4-1/8" front wheel, it is a fixed non-movable part of the locomotive. See post # 1 for pic. I need to trim just a tad off the left half, and then sand.

Dale in Indy


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

*New to Turning*

Found an hour and a half to work on the walnut locomotive front wheel this evening, so squared off the sides so that it is at the 4--1/8" width I need.

Then sanded up to 400 grit, I will leave it at that for now. Tomorrow I hope to drill a 4" hole through it. I will use a ceiling can hole saw to go in and set the side walls, then turn out the guts to such. I will stop an inch from going through, then after removing from lathe I will use the hole saw to finish the cut. The hole saw only allows me to go approx. 2" deep with first cut. 

Dale in Indy


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Looks good so far. Keep us posted.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Glad you found the club. Nothing better than getting started on the right foot. I haven't demoed for the Indianapolis club. Need to work on that some day since I have relatives up there and have met several of the members over the years. Dick Gerard and Betty Scarpino are good friends. don't know if they attend that club. Also Jennifer Shirley and Clay Foster are good friends and live up there. Any of those people have probably demoed for that club if they aren't members.


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