# New and improved router table



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I have a plan put together for a new router table. I've searched the world over and haven't found anything like it. This will incorporate vertical and horizontal routing. Lift. Ease of use, setup and bit changes (one of the things we all hate to do). Shop made. 

I'm looking for the best fence ever made. Anyone have one they're proud of? What makes a good router fence? What does it need to cover all the bases?

Can anyone help? Please share.

Al


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I have a Freud router table and while I'm sure the fence isn't the be-all end-all, I do like it. It's sturdy, it has dust collection which I've connected to a shop vac. It has infeed and outfeed fences that can be adjusted to close in on the bit and have screw adjustments for each fence to allow for precise adjustment and each fence operates independently. 

Interested to see your design. Easy bit changing and horizontal capability would sue be great to have.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Quickstep said:


> I have a Freud router table and while I'm sure the fence isn't the be-all end-all, I do like it. It's sturdy, it has dust collection which I've connected to a shop vac. It has infeed and outfeed fences that can be adjusted to close in on the bit and have screw adjustments for each fence to allow for precise adjustment and each fence operates independently.
> 
> Interested to see your design. Easy bit changing and horizontal capability would sue be great to have.


Love the Freud. But Im looking for shop made fences. But could you post a picture?

Al


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Al, I discovered I had to make a temporary fence and attach it to my regular fence, which is shop made similar to the one Steve Ramsey built in one of his videos.

The reason for a temporary fence was so I could cut notches to fit closely to a raised panel cutter. The bit was too big for the dust cavity of my fence and didn't allow the stock to easily pass the cutter and transition to the other side.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Could do a bisenmeyer style rail and locking system with an aluminium extrusion fence, use some bolts and the like to fasten some melamine to make a split fence


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Mine is a Benchdog Pro max*

http://www.benchdog.com/profence.cfm



















You want 2 bolts and a slot on either side to hold it down securely when using featherboards which lift it off the table OR you want it long enough to extend beyond the table so you can clamp it down in any location. 

You don't need a "T" square fence parallel to the edge because a router bit is round with a point contact, unlike a saw blade which is a large plane and requires a fence which is parallel to that plane/blade.

You want sliding faces on either side of the cutter to allow for different cutter diameters, and to close down the opening for the best dust collection.

Not "shop made" but hard to beat the features with the aluminum tracks and right angle table mount:







​


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Heres a picture of the Freud that I found online. 












http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71xIVoqoH7S.jpg?ref_=sp_dp_imgzm


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Mine is nothing fancy but may have some ideas. I have a micro adjust to fine tune the fence placement. I also put in a fine adjust to keep the fence perpendicular. (the one with the screw on the far right side when looking from the back. The fences are individually moveable. I also made 6 sets when I made the first set as replacements in case they were needed (sometimes I forget to use an aux fence LOL)


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Could do a bisenmeyer style rail and locking system with an aluminium extrusion fence, use some bolts and the like to fasten some melamine to make a split fence


It's not going on a table saw. But thanks.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> http://www.benchdog.com/profence.cfm
> 
> 
> You want 2 bolts and a slot on either side to hold it down securely when using featherboards which lift it off the table OR you want it long enough to extend beyond the table so you can clamp it down in any location.
> ...


Oh that is one fine fence. I do want a split section. I'm going to have to check my 8020 catalog for profiles

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Quickstep said:


> Heres a picture of the Freud that I found online.
> 
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71xIVoqoH7S.jpg?ref_=sp_dp_imgzm


I like this fence too. Made like a shaper fence. A while back I almost bought one on eBay. I wonder if it stays true from one side to the other?

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

mengtian said:


> Mine is nothing fancy but may have some ideas. I have a micro adjust to fine tune the fence placement. I also put in a fine adjust to keep the fence perpendicular. (the one with the screw on the far right side when looking from the back. The fences are individually moveable. I also made 6 sets when I made the first set as replacements in case they were needed (sometimes I forget to use an aux fence LOL)


Now we're cookin with gas. Gota have the micro. Just seems like all the set ups require a micro smidgen of adjustment. 

Thanks for the pics.

Al


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

*I love what this person did with the Freud fence and the Incra components*


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

I just got an email from NextWave Automation showing an automated router lift that you can add to their existing automated Ready2Rout fence. 

http://shop.nextwaveautomation.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=129. $399
http://nextwaveautomation.com/Ready2Rout.aspx. $599.

Not sure the setup is worth a grand when you still need a table to install it on, but interesting tech now that you can control bit depth as well as distance from the fence down to .001. 

4D


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

4DThinker said:


> I just got an email from NextWave Automation showing an automated router lift that you can add to their existing automated Ready2Rout fence.
> 
> http://shop.nextwaveautomation.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=129. $399
> http://nextwaveautomation.com/Ready2Rout.aspx. $599.
> ...


Even the simplest fence is better for me. I have no desire to make those two tone dovetails on the ends of my drawers. Come to think of it,cI've never opened a single drawer that had those on it.

Thanks for sharing but rule one in this query is its going to be shop made.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I have access to aluminum like that and may use it for the fence. But not for the fence to solve my problem. 

We all found out years ago that the shop built router tables are better than store bought. My pursuit is for a better unit anyone can build. I think I have 90% of it. I just thought I could get a few ideas here from guys that have been using them.

Al


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> It's not going on a table saw. But thanks.
> 
> Al


I know its not, but no reason you couldn't have the same ease of setting and locking in a distance on a router table


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*locking rail vs pivoting fence*



epicfail48 said:


> Could do a bisenmeyer style rail and locking system with an aluminium extrusion fence, use some bolts and the like to fasten some melamine to make a split fence


As I pointed out in a previous post, a router fence on a rail would not have the ability to pivot on one end. The router cutter is a "point" contact tool, whereas the table saw has a blade "plane" which is the width of the blade in it's extended or "up" position...maybe 6" up to 9"
.
To adjust the depth of cut, not the height, on a pivoting fence, loosen one bolt and simply bump the fence toward or away from the cutter OR you can use a micro adjustment knob. A rail fence would take numerous trial and error attempts top move it the small incremental amount.

Having said that, and it's just my opinion, if you can make it work on your router table, go for it. I would not have one on any of my router tables....

Further, if the side panels are adjustable, not "bolted" on you can change the distance to the cutter to minimize exposure for safety and to better contain and collect the dust from a "restricted" area maximizing the suction.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> As I pointed out in a previous post, a router fence on a rail would not have the ability to pivot on one end. The router cutter is a "point" contact tool, whereas the table saw has a blade "plane" which is the width of the blade in it's extended or "up" position...maybe 6" up to 9"
> .
> To adjust the depth of cut, not the height, on a pivoting fence, loosen one bolt and simply bump the fence toward or away from the cutter OR you can use a micro adjustment knob. A rail fence would take numerous trial and error attempts top move it the small incremental amount.
> 
> ...


A railed system can also be micro-adjusted in many different ways. As far as the adjustable panels go, i did say use some bolts and a piece of melamine on a piece of aluminium extrusion, i didnt say permanently attach the fence. 

Neither of our ways are right or wrong, the only difference between our methods is how the fence moves. Yours rotates, mine slides, one isnt inherently better than the other.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> A railed system can also be micro-adjusted in many different ways. As far as the adjustable panels go, i did say use some bolts and a piece of melamine on a piece of aluminium extrusion, i didnt say permanently attach the fence.
> 
> Neither of our ways are right or wrong, the only difference between our methods is how the fence moves. Yours rotates, mine slides, one isnt inherently better than the other.


Fail
I would question the T style fence on a router if for no other reason than ,I have never seen such on a router table. Do you own one that you could share? I could build one. I've built two for table saws.

Al


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Fail
> I would question the T style fence on a router if for no other reason than ,I have never seen such on a router table. Do you own one that you could share? I could build one. I've built two for table saws.
> 
> Al


Yes and no. Ive never seen one built on a dedicated router table, however, how many extension wings with router table built in have you seen? I actually do the same thing on my saw, that is i have a rudimentary router table built in to the wing, and i use the crappy fence on my saw for the router side as well. Ill admit its an unorthodox way to do it, but a biesemeyerseems leaps and bounds easier than most "real" router table fences ive seen in terms of use.

I also feel the need to state that im not suggesting slapping a full table saw size biesemeyer on a 1x1 router table, im suggesting using the same concept and shrinking it down to more suitable proportions. Although, a table-saw sized router table could be handy...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*one of my router tables is a tablesaw extension*

The right side mounted router table is fed from right to left and the fence must be behind or on the left side of the cutter. In order to use the table saw fence for the router, I would need to use the right side of the fence. 
There would need to be a hole in the fence or additional side panels to allow full size cutter to spin without engaging the metal part of the fence. ...... Not gonna happen in my case. 
My Bench Dog Pro Max extension came with 2 slots for the fence and it works great. Also when you have the table saw set for a rip and then need to move the fence to use on the router then move it back for another rip, you have lost your setup on either or both of the machine....Not gonna happen in my shop.




Like I said if it works for your great. If it were such a great idea, it would be on more, if not all commercial router tables.


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## Develin (Oct 1, 2012)

I don't actually own a router table... but I do own a spindle moulder and I can post some pictures of that or maybe even a video because it is a custom job, might give you some ideas? If you're interested.

Dev


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Yes and no. Ive never seen one built on a dedicated router table, however, how many extension wings with router table built in have you seen? I actually do the same thing on my saw, that is i have a rudimentary router table built in to the wing, and i use the crappy fence on my saw for the router side as well. Ill admit its an unorthodox way to do it, but a biesemeyerseems leaps and bounds easier than most "real" router table fences ive seen in terms of use.
> 
> I also feel the need to state that im not suggesting slapping a full table saw size biesemeyer on a 1x1 router table, im suggesting using the same concept and shrinking it down to more suitable proportions. Although, a table-saw sized router table could be handy...


Routers in table saws are tantamount to working off the floor for me. Just way too short. Router tables need to be at lease as high as your elbow.

Don't need extension wings either. Too much trouble.

Al


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Routers in table saws are tantamount to working off the floor for me. Just way too short. Router tables need to be at lease as high as your elbow.
> 
> Don't need extension wings either. Too much trouble.
> 
> Al


Wasnt suggesting an extension wing table, just providing am example of the conceptual fence usage.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Well we have a winner!

Shop made.
Easy to build.
Split center for close fit to bits.
Great clamp style. No need for slots.
Easy to add hold down clamps and guards.

If anyone sees a problem or a better fence, chime in. 









Comes from the first issue of ShopNotes. I like the legs too. Don't need much of a cabinet like the Norm version.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Wasnt suggesting an extension wing table, just providing am example of the conceptual fence usage.


Oh okay.

Al


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> Well we have a winner!
> 
> Shop made.
> Easy to build.
> ...


That is pretty much the fence I was going to make but decided to do my own thing. I had included a link earlier about it.
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/303/routertable.pdf

The fence is half way through. It is also the same cabinet.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

mengtian said:


> That is pretty much the fence I was going to make but decided to do my own thing. I had included a link earlier about it.
> http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/303/routertable.pdf
> 
> The fence is half way through. It is also the same cabinet.


I think this is all I need. Sometimes the do all everything in the box approach is just waste.

Thanks for sharing. post your pictures.

Al


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## Wendel17 (Apr 20, 2009)

My router table is probably as basic as it comes. 16"x48"x36" high. Just an open bench with a shelf at the bottom. Open for easy bit changes, and lots of room at the back to clamp my fence. Works for me.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi Al - from what I've read in your previous posts, you are an advocate of the KISS principal.... please don't abandon that now!
All a router fence needs to be is straight. The ability to clamp it where you want is tantamount. Since the rotational axis of a router bit on a router table is vertical... no matter where the fence is, it will be "parallel" to the bit. 
I just use the fence that came with my table and use stop blocks and shims to adjust the depth of cut.. I would have built my own table but was getting so stacked up with projects wasn't willing to trade off the time...... turns out I should have as it would have taken less time and been cheaper to build my own than to rebuild to POS I bought:thumbdown:


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

Here's mine. It has worked quite well for me so far.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Here's mine. It has worked quite well for me so far.


Oh that's a beauty! Its not too tall is it? I guess you have the track in the upper section for hold downs. Is that center line important?

Nice build.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Al - from what I've read in your previous posts, you are an advocate of the KISS principal.... please don't abandon that now!
> All a router fence needs to be is straight. The ability to clamp it where you want is tantamount. Since the rotational axis of a router bit on a router table is vertical... no matter where the fence is, it will be "parallel" to the bit.
> I just use the fence that came with my table and use stop blocks and shims to adjust the depth of cut.. I would have built my own table but was getting so stacked up with projects wasn't willing to trade off the time...... turns out I should have as it would have taken less time and been cheaper to build my own than to rebuild to POS I bought:thumbdown:


I agree. I'm on my third router table. The last fence I made was out of mahogany because it's one of the most stable woods around. But it was too simple and this time I want to at least have the opening adjustable and cut a tee track in it for hold downs even though I don't used them much. 

This new table has two positions for the router. Vertical and horizontal using one lift. I've actually built it 4 times to get it right. When I'm finished I'm going to sell the plan.

Thanks for you vote of confidence on the KISS principal.

Al


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

In to see the results, and maybe purchase the plans if I think I can work with them 

Ive heard of some offering an offset fence for jointing abilities. Not sure how that is accomplished though. Is that overcomplicating things? unnecessary if you own a proper jointer?


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> Oh that's a beauty! Its not too tall is it? I guess you have the track in the upper section for hold downs. Is that center line important?
> 
> Nice build.
> 
> Al


Thanks, The height has not been a problem at all. In fact the taller fence has come in handy several times. Actually the wings are about 1 1/2" taller than the "fence" itself. The wings do slide right off. If anything, I would have cut the track a little farther down, closer to the table. I have centerlines drawn on the table in both directions and it visually helps, but I don't really index anything critical off of them.


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

bauerbach said:


> Ive heard of some offering an offset fence for jointing abilities. Not sure how that is accomplished though. Is that overcomplicating things? unnecessary if you own a proper jointer?


For what it's worth I did some jointing with mine until I got a jointer. I simply placed a shim...actually it was a scrap piece of laminate... between the (outfeed) wing and the "fence" and tightned up the knobs. This caused the outfeed wing to be slightly proud of the infeed wing. Carefully align the cutting edge of the router bit with the outfeed wing and joint away.


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## Wendel17 (Apr 20, 2009)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> For what it's worth I did some jointing with mine until I got a jointer. I simply placed a shim...actually it was a scrap piece of laminate... between the (outfeed) wing and the "fence" and tightned up the knobs. This caused the outfeed wing to be slightly proud of the infeed wing. Carefully align the cutting edge of the router bit with the outfeed wing and joint away.


I do it all the time on my router at home. If I had the option of a jointer, I'd use that instead. For small stuff the router works fine, but you're limited to the length of the cutter on your bit.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Danno said:


> I do it all the time on my router at home. If I had the option of a jointer, I'd use that instead. For small stuff the router works fine, but you're limited to the length of the cutter on your bit.


I remember a thread on this subject and the guy trying it was really messing up his wood. Not for the new guy that's for sure. 

Al


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## Wendel17 (Apr 20, 2009)

Al B Thayer said:


> I remember a thread on this subject and the guy trying it was really messing up his wood. Not for the new guy that's for sure.
> 
> Al


For sure. It takes practice..and a good set up. A nice sharp bit won't hurt either.


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