# Work Bench Build - over hang or no over hang



## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

Hi all

Just picked up a solid wood door for my work bench top, and fix'in to cut it down to size. I've seen several other benches online, and some have an over hang, and others are flush with the frame. Any thoughts on the pros and cons of an over hang. If I do put on over hang, it will be 1 1/2 inches all around. My thinking is it would be good for clamping things to a work piece to the bench. I intend to put a vise of some sorts on it too, but am still researching the different vise options to use. 

For those of you who gave advice on the build, I appreciate all the input. I decided the bench would be more stable if I put some kind of support in the middle, so I'm going to use a cross member from 2X4's in the center, and put shelving on both sides of the bracing. I'll use adjustable shelving brackets, so I can adjust as needed.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I like overhang. It gives you a place to clamp wood to the top. If you plan to install a woodworking vice I would put a lot of overhang on the end with the vice. 

Keep in mind if you cut the door down it will be a thick sheet of particleboard in the middle. I would recommend routing out the particle board in the middle about an inch deep and glue a piece of solid wood in the end.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I like an overhang.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*go with an overhang*

I would go with the overhang on the front, maybe flush on the back. Also I would favor more on one end to allow for a vise if you have enough length. I recall you wanted to have it accessible from both sides. So, maybe split the overhang to 2" on the sides if you have enough width on the door.

Check out this thread on vises:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/need-vice-advice-104114/


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

+1 Overhang.
Use it every day. :thumbsup:


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## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

Great...gonna go with the overhang. Thanks Steve for the tip on the solid door. That part never occured to me. I'll definatly router out the particle wood, and insert some "real" wood.

Just to show everyone's advice on this build has not been in vain. I agreed that while the bench seems stable now, I could see where it might start to loosen up down the road, in spite of my expert wood working skills......LOL..:laughing:. I'm going to put adjustable shelving on each side, just because I can. So the pics below are the result of good advice...,thanks!. 

Also heeded the advice of another poster who suggested a shallow drawer for small tools. If you look closely the plywood doesn't go all the way to the top. I'll install a drawer in the open space.

I'll post one last pic when I get the top put on.


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Overhang


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Here's a couple more pics to consider.

The top two drawers are for pencils, squares, rulers, that kind of stuff. The other drawers are for clamps.

I made my workbench top from a solid core door I bought at a Habitat Restore place for less than $10. It was 36 x80 and I cut it down to 30 x 48. My one car garage is full and space is limited, but I do a lot of work on that bench. I added an oak edge band on all four sides. It has held up pretty well to all of the beating it has taken over the last few years. Formica laminated on top. Kreg klamp track and "T" track.


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## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

Ok...got my bench top cut to dimension, and set it up on the bench. I have a 1/4 in rock from one corner to the diagonal corner. I guess my wood working skills leave some to be desired. I took my 48" level, and and laid it at different angles on the top, and it seems to be flat as a board (pun intended). So I'm convinced it's the bench.

Question...should I just screw it down as it is, shim a corner, or is there a fix to which some one can enlighten me? I'm not pulling the bench apart, so thqts not an option. The bottom of the bench sits flat and firmly on the floor.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Use the level to find the high spot on your frame. A hand plane can be used to shave off a little. If you don't have a plane, Harbor Freight sells one that is pretty affordable and works just fine for that kind of work.

http://www.harborfreight.com/no-4-jack-and-mini-plane-set-92553.html


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## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

I have the rock down to about 1/16 of an inch, and decided to call it good. I'm not sure how i'll fasten it down yet. Should I use regular wood screws or maybe lag bolts in the corners, and keep the middle free of hardware for bench dogs and perhaps t track. 

What size hole should I drill for the bench dogs, I've seen 1/2 and 3/4. 

What are the pros and cons of using t track?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

tchara said:


> I have the rock down to about 1/16 of an inch, and decided to call it good. I'm not sure how i'll fasten it down yet. Should I use regular wood screws or maybe lag bolts in the corners, and keep the middle free of hardware for bench dogs and perhaps t track.
> 
> What size hole should I drill for the bench dogs, I've seen 1/2 and 3/4.
> 
> What are the pros and cons of using t track?


Actually my table top is so heavy, it isn't fastened to the frame. I attached some 1/2 inch mdf strips along the outside edge of the top (from underneath) to create a cradle. The top sits on the frame and doesn't move. :thumbsup:

Love my tracks. I don't use the holes very much. If anything, my next top will have slots cut out for clamps the fit through, and more tracks. Even though I am retired and just a hobbyist, I use my table almost daily.

Typically, bench holes are 3/4 inch in diameter.

Good luck.

Here is a picture of a mobile workstation I built with the holes and slots. Lots of clamping options when you introduce slots.

The last photo shows the use of "T" tracks in action building face frames using pocket screw construction.

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

Well....Except for a few finishing touches, my new work bench is done !

It certainly won't win any beauty contests, but I believe it's going to be a good stout bench for many years to come. That would make a great new topic....Who's got the ugliest work bench...LOL It was actually my first major build, and was a great learning experience. I learned a few lessons, and found a few tricks on my own, but a lot of help came from this forum, and I want to thank every one for there feedback, and suggestions. I used most all of them I read.

My next project is going to be dust collection. I have a 12 gal 11.8 amp vac, and a 16 gal, 11.0 amp vac. I bought the Onieda Dust Deputy, and want to build a cart to hold the dust deputy on top of the vac. I've seen a few vids online and am getting some ideas. 

Tomorrow I'll post the build vid of the work bench on my you tube channel, and post the URL here if anyone wants to see it.


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## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

Ok
I got the Bench video posted on you tube.
Here's the link if any ones interested.

Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr_Nnak8ngo
Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDIBpdb34lE


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

tchara said:


> Ok
> I got the Bench video posted on you tube.
> Here's the link if any ones interested.


Good videos and nice bench. :thumbsup:

Wheels looked way too flimsy though. Those are going to seriously fold under any sort of real weight. If they do fold up on you - Replacing them will not be fun as you will have to empty the bench and flip it.

An all steel wheel with a better weight rating may cost a slight bit more but may save you some headache later. 

Just an opinion.


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## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Good videos and nice bench. :thumbsup:
> 
> Wheels looked way too flimsy though. Those are going to seriously fold under any sort of real weight. If they do fold up on you - Replacing them will not be fun as you will have to empty the bench and flip it.
> 
> ...


I don't plan on moving it very often, and I've used these wheels several times before on cabinets heavier then this one. But if it does become a problem, I can jack up the bench high enough to take the castor assembly out from the bottom and replace them. 

Thanks for the compliment on the bench. I used mostly scrap stuff around the house, so it's not spit and polished, but I believe it will serve my needs just fine.


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## MFolks (Jan 1, 2013)

Overhang, as on my build, I'm going to put a long power strip, and need protection from items falling into the electrical tool power plugs.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

tchara said:


> I don't plan on moving it very often, and I've used these wheels several times before on cabinets heavier then this one. But if it does become a problem, I can jack up the bench high enough to take the castor assembly out from the bottom and replace them.
> 
> Thanks for the compliment on the bench. I used mostly scrap stuff around the house, so it's not spit and polished, but I believe it will serve my needs just fine.


I have killed a small pile of those same wheels. (or seen others kill them)

Don't know the number in pounds but those wheels are only good for about 250 board feet of material or less. 150 BF is safer and less likely to fold up. (unless it is balsa)

The way you did the drawer boxes was cool. :thumbsup: I plan to steal (incorporate) that idea into my main bench as soon as possible. :yes:


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## sharbin (Feb 21, 2013)

In the first video, you weren't confident about the retractable caster system. Now that you have completed the build, are you happy with them? Would you do anything different? Looks like a good system that I might want to give a try.


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## obfuscode (Feb 21, 2012)

I'm about to build a new workbench as well and am interested in using the clamp tracks but the Kreg track is so pricey for just extruded aluminum. I also dabble in hobby robotics and will be buying some aluminum extrusion linear rails from SMW3D and seeing if they work given they are a 1/4 the price and can get longer rails up to 1500mm.

Here's the product page - I don't know if the slots will fit the clamps and I can't find the Kreg slot dimensions listed anywhere - anyone who has them, can you measure and tell me the width and depth of the clamp Ts?

http://www.smw3d.com/aluminum-extruded-v-slot-from-openbuilds/
I apologize if I'm not supposed to post to other sites - feel free to remove this link if it's not allowed.

- Jace


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## NickB (Sep 24, 2013)

The 80/20 extrusion that obfuscode posted looks pretty ideal for any edging, but at roughly 1" deep it seems like it would be tough to incorporate in "the field" of most tables. 

The best value I've found in T-Track is Orange Aluminum. It's smaller than the Rockler, Kreg & other name brand track, but fits 1/4" hex bolts perfectly. It's also about 1/3 the price or less and shipping is fast and reasonable $. _It does not work with most T-Bolts though, so a lot of store bought accessories will need adapted or cannot be used..._. 

The orange aluminum stuff is what I made my T-Track Table out of.


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## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

*retractable castors*



sharbin said:


> In the first video, you weren't confident about the retractable caster system. Now that you have completed the build, are you happy with them? Would you do anything different? Looks like a good system that I might want to give a try.


Yes, I an happy with them. They seem to be working pretty good. The only change I made, was I put a strip of thin metal on the board where the cams contact the wood. That way it cams over easier, and will save the board from wearing down.


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## tchara (Aug 1, 2015)

*T Track*



NickDIY said:


> The 80/20 extrusion that obfuscode posted looks pretty ideal for any edging, but at roughly 1" deep it seems like it would be tough to incorporate in "the field" of most tables.
> 
> The best value I've found in T-Track is Orange Aluminum. It's smaller than the Rockler, Kreg & other name brand track, but fits 1/4" hex bolts perfectly. It's also about 1/3 the price or less and shipping is fast and reasonable $. _It does not work with most T-Bolts though, so a lot of store bought accessories will need adapted or cannot be used..._.
> 
> The orange aluminum stuff is what I made my T-Track Table out of.


Thanks for the info. They look pretty good, and seem resasonably priced compared to Kreg or Rockler


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