# Need advice for mounting cabinet doors



## texastiger (Dec 27, 2014)

Hello everyone.......I making a cabinet for my wife's art supplies and need some help in attaching the doors to the carcass. I am trying to duplicate a design I saw on a showroom floor and have attached a picture so you can see what I'm trying to achieve. I also have attached a picture of the construction state of my carcass. I would like to have 2 side mounted doors opening from the middle out. I want to use hidden side mount hinges that will fit flush against the side panels of the cabinet. I don't have the side panel thickness to recess the hinges. I am going to use 3/4" pecan wood for the doors so they will be on the heavy side and the overall opening for the doors measure 43-1/2w x 35-3/8h. I have recessed the shelves back 1-1/4" all around to allow for the doors . How much space should I leave at the top and bottom of each door and what should the distance between the doors be? How many hinges on each door and what kind should I use? Any other guidance or suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks in advance.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

It looks like these hinges are what you are looking for.
http://www.blum.com/us/en/01/20/40/

Scroll down the page and click on "more pictures". One of them shows a framless cabinet installation.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Your pecan doors are large and will be heavy. You could use a piano hinge. 
I would leave only 1/8" at the top and bottom. I would not cut the doors final width down until you mount the hinges. Leave 1/8" between the doors.


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## Big Mike 69 (Oct 20, 2015)

Hi everyone, 
I agree that the European style hinges are the best answer. There are way to many varieties on the market. They can be very confusing for the first few times of using them. My best suggestion would be to take the pictures with you and visit a cabinet shop and ask someone there if they can help you. You said the walls are to thin so I have to ask how thick the wall is and also the if the face frame is flush with the inside or if it overlays into the opening. Piano hinges will not work for what you want to do. Three hinges per door will be fine. Also the adjustability of the hinges is the best feature of European hinges. I would ask if the cabinet shop would drill and mount the hinges to the door for you. I could give more instructions but confusion is what you do not need, hehe.
Good luck and pictures are great.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I agree with Toolman, 1/8 inch margin all the way around. Another hinge option is a no mortise hinge you can use, they can be used face mount or inset. 

http://www.rockler.com/non-mortise-hinges-with-finial

I would use three at least per door. You will need to make a stop in the center for the doors and a catch will be necessary with this hinge.


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## texastiger (Dec 27, 2014)

Hello everyone.......I decided to use 3 Blum blumotion 110 soft close hinges on each door and I think they will handle the door weight just fine. I still have to make some hinge adjustments. I used a natural opening in wood doors as a place to open the doors......really like the way that looks and is quite functional. Also lined up the wood grain on the door fronts for continuity across the front. I used poplar on the carcass and pecan for the doors. I applied BLO on both carcass and doors. On the carcass, I used a white pickling stain over the BLO. After the BLO dries on the doors, I plan on using a satin waterborne finish. 
The carcass already has the finish applied. I've had good success with waterborne over BLO on previous projects. I'll be putting metal wheels on....why? because my wife told me to....haha. Thanks for all the suggestions.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

That does look good, nice job.


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## Big Mike 69 (Oct 20, 2015)

Fantastic job and congratulations to you. 

For information: 
The hinges are plenty strong enough for the doors. As a rule in our shop 2 hinges for up to 30 inch doors, 3 hinges up to 48 and 4 or more for full height doors. The numbers are not related to weight but the added hinges help prevent door and or cabinet warp.


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## texastiger (Dec 27, 2014)

*Just one more thing*

What material would you guys recommend for a back panel? I was going to use 1/8 tempered hardboard but maybe there is something else I should consider. Thanks


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## Big Mike 69 (Oct 20, 2015)

Since you are making it a roll around unit ( for the wife, hehe) I would go with at least 1/4 inch for stability. 1/8 inch has a tendency to warp even in a fairly small area and pretty easy to bump into something and poke a hole in. ( never know who will be moving it around). 

With such a nice job do not forget to put your name or initials on it someplace. I always put my name and date on things I build so maybe someday some one will see it and know who I was.


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## texastiger (Dec 27, 2014)

*Big Mike 69*

Big Mike.....once positioned, the cabinet will be sitting on tile so I made my wife promise not to roll those metal wheels on the tile floor or else I could have a real problem with cracked tile. The cabinet has 2 each 3/4"shelves and a 3/4" vertical partition centered. Seems pretty stable, but I think I'll take your advice and go with 1/4" for the back to be on the safe side. Thanks for your response.


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## texastiger (Dec 27, 2014)

*Big Mike 69*



Big Mike 69 said:


> With such a nice job do not forget to put your name or initials on it someplace. I always put my name and date on things I build so maybe someday some one will see it and know who I was.


I agree with you wholeheartedly on that. In fact, I ordered a branding iron just a few weeks for that very reason. Some of my projects will no doubt end up with my kids some day and I would like them to remember "pops".


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