# Concerns about safety of a table saw...



## blktoptrvl (Jan 1, 2010)

Hello All. I have a few questions... for those who own this model and a general - what would you do? 

I own this table saw. I purchased it only year ago and have not used it much because I don't think it is very good. My chief concern for using this saw was that it does not seem to be accurate enough. When I set the angle and depth of the blade, and then turn it on, the motor/blade assembly always jumps (hard) and there go my "fine settings." As I said, this WAS the primary reason for me not using this saw, but today I found another...

The blade guard...

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/protection-p-957267.html

... always seemed suspect to me. It is a "quick install" unit that you pretty much have to stand over the blade and press down on in order to attach it. Not liking that proposition, I decided I would always unplug the saw while attaching or removing the guard.

When I first attached the guard I was also weary that the attachment mechanism was (IMO) not all that secure so the first few times I attached it, I would then stand to the side and turn the saw on and off a few times to see what it would do.

I also noticed that if the guard was in place and I lowered the blade at some point the guard would bind against the table top and then "pop off." Fortunately at those times the blade was not spinning.

Today, I needed to rip a piece of thin (1/8") plywood. While using the saw (with the blade high enough that I don't think there was any pressure on the guard), the guard popped off, hit the blade, and flew into my chest/arm. I had been standing slightly to the side and not directly in front of the blade and the result was that, (i) one of the arms of the plastic guard broke (ii) my chest was a little sore for a while, (iii) there are a 1/2" cut and a one inch abrasion on my arm from the flying plastic.

So, my questions are: 


has anyone else this experience with the Skil model 3310? After the guard popped off, I still needed to finish the cut so I took a look at the guard and found that the front clamp pin (that holds the guard in place) is free floating and can slide laterally with nothing to keep it from detaching - except the pressure it is under while "locked." 
Can anyone with this or a similar model saw confirm for me that this pin is supposed to float? Or is it supposed to be locked somehow?

Needing to finish, I reattached the guard with the now broken arm and standing far to the side completed my cut. 

I am not sure if I should now replace the broken plastic guard arm, see if I can find a more secure design for the saw, or just get rid of the saw altogether, eating the $150 bucks I paid for it, and save up to find a better saw.

Any thoughts?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> $150 bucks I paid for it


There in lies the problem. You know the old adage "You get what you pay for".

I would be skeered to ever start it again. Honestly.

Good luck. I don't have an answer for your problem.

I have two saws, one for the shop work and one for work on location. They both work well. I am not a professional, just a retired guy that does a lot of woodworking related stuff including cabinets.

There is a big difference in cost (and size) of my saws. The little DeWalt was on sale at CPO tools for $306 (reconditioned). I don't think you would have that problem with a saw like it.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*fix the guard or ...*

Leave it off if you can't fix it to make it stay on. A guard that flies off and hits you is worse than no guard at all.... just my opinion. It should latch in place securely so when you pull on it it won't come off in your hand.

Even a cheap saw should have a functioning guard. I didn't see where you bought it...? It is clearly defective and should be returned. Skil would want to know of this defect and a call to customer service "should" result in a clearance to return it. The lack of this response "may result" in a law suit as they should well know... good luck to you.


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## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

Great advice from previous posts. Although you have invested (some) $ into the Skil table saw, consider looking for a newer/better/top brand TS that has parts that fit & work well together. Trying to "fix" a safety problem IMO may cost you more than the old TS is worth, which should only be used for parts or "rough" cuts. Be safe.


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## Pcride (Jun 4, 2012)

As I've stated in my table saw thread, feel free to search my recent posts. I've concluded if your not spending at least $500-800 on a table sat with a cast iron top and a good fence, expect inaccurate cuts and frustration.


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## blktoptrvl (Jan 1, 2010)

Of course, we all seek the buy the best we can. But I was hopeful with this table because I had previously owned a similar size and shape Skil model that cost about the same (when inflation adjusted) and served my needs well. This is very unfortunate for me because it will take some time to get a better table, I will search out a universal guard that actually bolts to the table.

If anyone has this model, I would still like to hear your experience with the guard and the pin I mentioned.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

I had the 3410 years ago, a similar Skil model to yours but with a few extra features. All of the safety gadgets that came with it looked extremely flimsy/cheap so I took them all off. Had the saw about 2 weeks and ripped a bunch of stuff at 0* bevel with great success. The first time I tried a beveled cut the saw got stuck at the 30* bevel I had it set on. After about an hour and fooling with it I gave up and returned it the next day. Swore I would never buy a TS that cheap again.

I have the DeWalt similar to the one MT posted and have been using it for about 3yrs now. It's a fantastic saw and is night and day from the cheaper $200 or less job site saws.


Sorry I can't help you on the pin question, as I mentioned I didn't use any of the safety stuff when I had mine because of poor quality. IMHO I would upgrade to a better saw. I don't know if you'd be able to return it being that you've had it for a year or so. At best you could maybe get a free replacement guard if you contact Skil.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*fix it or flip it*



blktoptrvl said:


> If anyone has this model, I would still like to hear your experience with the guard and the pin I mentioned.


If you are mechanically inclined fix the pin so it stays put. Beat on it, flatten it, wire it, clip it, epoxy it whatever. If you can't fix it, sell the saw ... as is. 


if you can't fix it, you can leave it off, and use it without the guard only IF you contact Skil and tell them the story you have told here. That will get their attention. There was a $ 1.2 Million dollar lawsuit against Ryobi if I recall, because an experienced operator used a saw without the guard in place and used it improperly, but the jury found for the operator regardless. You have some leverage, use it.


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## blktoptrvl (Jan 1, 2010)

Follow-up...

I wrote to Skil and told them of the experience I had with this saw.

I was invited to return it because they wanted to get a look at it in the engineering department.

In return, they sent Back a Bosch saw that is worth about 3.5 times the retail value of the one I'd bought. Looking at it, I think it may be a refurbish of another model that was not so well reviewed (motor trouble). As far as accuracy and safety, this "new" table is head and shoulders better than to one I'd purchased. It is very accurate, very stable, and has tons more features.

I am very happy with it.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Pcride said:


> As I've stated in my table saw thread, feel free to search my recent posts. I've concluded if your not spending at least $500-800 on a table sat with a cast iron top and a good fence, expect inaccurate cuts and frustration.


WOW!!

That is one conclusion to draw from only owning one saw.

George


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