# Refinishing oak dining table - where to start?



## cclark (Oct 31, 2010)

I have an older oak pedestal table that I had stained with Minwax golden oak, and then covered with a liquid plastic. It has held up great and I just love it. However, I unknowingly, spilled a plug-in type room fragrance on the top, and it ate a hole through the finish down to the wood. Uggg. So, I am planning to refinish the table in a Sherwin-Williams Gourmet Oak stain and then recover with another water-proof type sealer. So,....where do I start on stripping and refinishing this piece? Please suggest products to strip, and then the steps to restain. I have no knowledge of this type of thing, but I love my table and want to do a good job. (I have no idea how I knew what to do to the table 20 years ago and why it turned out so good!) :smile: 

Thanks in advance for any input.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

i would start with jasco paint and opoxy remover.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

I would first use a chemical stripper. An MC (methylene chloride) based stripper would work the best. It's very toxic and you need good ventilation and hand/arm/face protection, and a respirator. One effective stripper is called "Aircraft Stripper", in a blue can sold at dedicated auto paint and body stores. Follow the directions on the can.

I would use an oil base pigmented stain. Once that has cured, a film type topcoat works best if you have the ability to spray. Conversion varnish, lacquer, or waterbase polyurethane will work well. If you can't spray, a wiping version of an oil finish, like a 3 part mix of varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits, or just a wiping mix of varnish or oil base polyurethane, and mineral spirits makes for a good finish.












 





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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

jasco paint and epoxy remover is methylene chloride based, and can be found at any home depot, lowes, and most ace hardwares.

the cabinetman's advice is spot on.

the 3 part mix blo-ms-varnish is also considered a varnish wipe. if you cant spray wipe on is the best way to go. use a bruxh you get brush marks. most " tung oil " products you buy are not a true tung oil unless it says 100% tung oil, but they make a good varnish wipe. a true tung oil takes way too long for dry/cure for most to deal with.


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