# Not sure if this saw is a good deal



## SFNinMD (Feb 4, 2012)

Hello All,

I'm looking to buy my first table saw. I'm trying to balance portability with quality and price. I saw a Craftsman model 315.218290 (more commonly shortened to 21829) that was "only used once" advertised for $350. I then did a bit of research on the internet and found this review of the saw which was written about 4 years ago:

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/19

It appears that the model must have recently been phased out. I haven't been able to figure out what these saws were typically selling for when they were new or what a fair price would be for one now that is in excellent condition. I would love to hear your opinions about whether this would be a good deal.

Cheers,
Steve


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

This saw is made by Ryobi and is essentially the latest version of the BT3000/BT3100, and many parts are interchangeable between them. These saws have an avid following. They're not for everyone, but many folks love them. Sears sells the new in the $500-$550 range. There's a website dedicated to the saw called BT3central.com...it's a nice site with very knowledgeable folks who should be able to answer all your questions. 

$350 seems a little steep considering you up give the warranty. If you think it's for you, I'd try offering $300 and see how it goes. 

With that said, I'd still prefer a full size cast iron saw with a belt drive induction motor, but we each have to choose what makes the most sense. The full size hybrid style contractor saws like the Ridgid R4512 isn't that much bigger and comes with built in wheels so you can roll it out of the way. Good luck.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

See knotscott chimed in early and he's the forums expert on saws if you ask me. :thumbsup::laughing:


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## SFNinMD (Feb 4, 2012)

Thanks for the advice on the price etc. Perhaps I should go for a cast iron saw but I'm not sure how far into this hobby I'm going to get. I probably won't know that until I get the saw and working with so therein lies the conundrum. This is probably why there's a lot of slightly used table saws on craigslist! 

Anyway, I just checked out the Rigid R4512 and it does look like it is more portable than most other contractor-type saws would be. I also have an interest in the R4512 which runs at about $379 for a reconditioned version. I'll do a bit more research this weekend and then decide.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Some HD's will accept a 20% Harbor Freight coupon, which brings a new R4512 down to ~ $440. The Craftsman 21833 is the same saw, so watch for their sales too, but note that the R4512 has a lifetime service agreement (not to be confused with a lifetime warranty), and a 3 year warranty (read the fine print).


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

This is the saw I have. It's a very nice saw for what it is. I paid $305 after tax, new, in May of 2010 thanks to a sale and a couple of coupon codes. You can get it new for the price listed if you're patient.

It's got a couple quirks that you won't find on other saws: no miter slots, a sliding table instead. Aluminum top. Not the most fantastic fence, but a very usable one.

But it's also got some stuff going for it others don't: the best (IMO) portability of any table saw, period. Good dust collection. Router attachment with a spot for a plug. Riving knife. Quieter than other contractor's saws (IMO).

If you can deal without the miter slots, or make your own (one of my projects this spring) then if you aren't in the market for a cabinet or hybrid saw, this is one to at least look at.


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## SFNinMD (Feb 4, 2012)

I've done more reading over the past couple days and have thought more about what I will be using the saw for. With respect to portability, all I would really need to is to occasionally move the saw a few feet across the basement floor. So I am starting to think more seriously about a contractor saw and am following local craigslist ads. I've found Habor Freight coupons for a few items but not for any table saws so if you know of a source please let me know. Thanks!


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## drbob1 (Feb 5, 2009)

I think the saw you are talking about was replaced by the 21828. If this is the case, it is probably a good saw. the Craftsman Professional 21828 was recently judged the best budget portable table saw and retails new for about $470. You can read a review on Power Saw Reviews for more info.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

drbob said:


> I think the saw you are talking about was replaced by the 21828. If this is the case, it is probably a good saw. the Craftsman Professional 21828 was recently judged the best budget portable table saw and retails new for about $470. You can read a review on Power Saw Reviews for more info.


I don't think that's the case...the 21828 is a small portable jobsite saw that's nearly identical to the Ridgid R4516. The 21829 is a slightly larger compact saw on a legstand with a sliding miter table and router table. Both are made by TTI/Ryobi though, but have different drive systems and different features.


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## chirpfarm (Jan 30, 2012)

drbob said:


> I think the saw you are talking about was replaced by the 21828. If this is the case, it is probably a good saw. the Craftsman Professional 21828 was recently judged the best budget portable table saw and retails new for about $470. You can read a review on Power Saw Reviews for more info.


I'm just a rookie here, but you've made 4 posts mostly devoid of helpful info that contain links to the same shopping website. Whats your angle?


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## Thadius856 (Nov 21, 2011)

This saw looks eerily similar to the a Skil model. Does Ryobi re-brand for Skil as well?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Thadius856 said:


> This saw looks eerily similar to the a Skil model. Does Ryobi re-brand for Skil as well?


Doubtful, b/c Skil is owned by Bosch, but I'm not sure...


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## Rumplestiltskin (Mar 13, 2012)

Steve, you're in a tough spot since you don't know exactly what you'll be doing with the saw. But since you've mentioned that you'd really only need to be able to move the saw a little within the basement, I would seriously lean towards full functionality, stability, and quality. If you end up with a saw that lacks any of those, you may get frustrated, or even worse, injured. If you haven't used a table saw much, or any at all, then ending up with a saw that has a crap fence, cheap blade, weak motor, or any of a number of issues, you may get discouraged. With a full size contractor saw, you'll have a standard fence(however crappy, but it can be replaced), and you should get something with a cast iron table. When I finally decided to stop using my father in law's table, I found a deal on an older 12" Craftsman. It needed a good bit of clean up, and only runs on 220V, but hey, I only paid $100. The 12" saw had a certain appeal to me, as it allows me to resaw a 2x4 in one pass - something that I needed to do, but couldn't with a 10" saw. Again, here's where knowing what I wanted in a saw helped me make the most of my purchasing opportunity.

If you think you might ever want to cut anything with some length and heft, I would really shy away from any of the compact benchtop saws. The best use I see for them is flooring contractors using them to rip strips of flooring, and with the short fence, it can be difficult to rip anything that's 8' long if it has any weight to it.

As for the table surface, I personally wouldn't get anything other than cast iron, even after buying one that had been neglected, abused, etc. After taking a scouring pad and some elbow grease to mine, I managed to get all the rust off. The occasional application of some Johnsons paste wax and it's slick as ice. There is a reason all of the top saws are cast iron, and it sure isn't reduced manufacturing and freight costs.


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## SFNinMD (Feb 4, 2012)

*shifting this thread to a somewhat new topic*

Thanks to everyone for the advice they gave as I stumbled through my first table saw purchase. I ended up buying a used Craftsman 113.298762 for $150. It was stored in a garage and needs some TLC (and a bit of assembly) before being used. I've been going through the users manual and following the instructions do adjust everything properly. I'm nearly ready to saw the first board but have run into one problem. I am not able to achieve a 90 degree angle between the saw blade and table. The image shows how close I am able to get before the tilt handwheel bolt becomes really tight. It is tight enough now that I don't feel comfortably pushing it any further. (Shortly after I got the saw home I noticed that the tilt handwheel was cracked and have been using a socket set to turn the long screw which controls the tilt.) According to the users manual, if this happens you are supposed to be able to loosen a stop screw in the top of the table with an allen key. I did this and it didn't make any difference. I don't seem to have any trouble tilting the blade in the other direction although I can't recall if I have had it all the way to a 45 degree angle. Do anyone have any suggestion on what to try next? Thanks.


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## Rumplestiltskin (Mar 13, 2012)

Wow, that's a good ways from 90 deg 

I had a similar issue, although not as severe. Turned out there was sawdust and gunk built out, and the moving parts bottomed out before the stop screw even became a factor. You will need to either crane you neck and lean up under the table or flip it on it's side. Then turn the wheel and notice all of the moving parts, and then see if any of them get close to anything else right as you're approaching 90 deg.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*there are 2 stop screws*

One for 90 and one for 45 degrees.... make sure you loosen the right one by backing them both out. 
As suggested you may have to spray and blast the accumulated crud out of the trunnion ways if it's built up too badly. 
It's easier to turn the saw upside down on a bench or horses and get a good look and use an air hose. BTDT :yes: bill


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## SFNinMD (Feb 4, 2012)

Sawdust build up did cross my mind but it is really hard to see up there. It may take a few days before I get to this but I'll turn the saw over and see what I can see and report back. I do have an air compressor so I should be able to dislodge whatever is there. I'm pretty certain I loosened the stop screw that was indicated in the users manual but I'll check that too. Thanks.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Automotive brake cleaner works really good for cleaning crud out those types of mechanisms. Working in a basement though, make sure you get the non-flammable stuff.:smile:


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Automotive brake cleaner works really good for cleaning crud out those types of mechanisms. Working in a basement though, make sure you get the non-flammable stuff.:smile:


+1 takes care of gunk in no time. Check to see if it also removes paint though and keep it contained if so.


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