# My place.



## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Here are a few photos of my house

Hold on, they didn't go through. I'll work on it.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

See if that works


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

and some more


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Should explain some.

One I entitled _stares_

One's entitled _stove safety_

_Scraps for sashes program_

_Never too much insulation_

_my first boxes_

and_ Bows

Edit: and chute by the bed_


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

I hand cut the frame, and all joints and pegs, no metal.

I built the insulated panels, the biggest one is 12'x24'

I milled scrap and leftover timber to build the windows, they're operational.

The interior doors I built from the scrap timber and leftover aspen.

I gotta get some work done. I'll post more later if anyone takes an interest. Thanks.


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## jeff967 (Nov 28, 2008)

you will get allot of interest, nice place you got there.:thumbsup:


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Beautiful work. Very nice. Why is the wind brace in that bent in the 3rd picture so long? That's a serious brace - never noticed one that proportionally long relative to the tie beam height except like in some Cruck designs etc. 

I'd like you to consider letting me move this to the Timber Framing section especially if you have pictures from the very beginning. That section needs all the action it can get, and a start to finish project like this would be a first there. Then once you're done you could post a finished portfolio here in the Project Showcase. Your home is certainly worthy to be here even now, but this way you'd have it in both places and help the TF section out also. If you like the idea let me know and I'll move it for you. 


Your dog must be really smart. He's stooped down as if you said _"Fleabag, put your left paw on the step below you, your face isn't in the picture." _ 



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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Here's the whole picture. I did this because I didn't want a post in the middle of the room, or to have to point load it all the way down. I retroed this in, when I realized I needed some mid span support.:icon_redface:


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

I also, since, cut the end of that beam flat. I hand hewed the arch with a small broad axe, and left it somewhat rough.

Sure, move it if you like. I'll try to come up with more process pictures.

Edit: and we are moved in, and it's finished to a carpenter/owner state.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Here's a couple current one's from similar angles. Pardon the mess, my wife's out of town. Cleaning up today, if I get off this computer.

I bought and hung the cheap white door, because my wife didn't like the blanket I had there. She can be a little picky.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've got a question about the T&G. Are there cross rafters above what is seen in this picture, or is that the unsupported span?
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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

check out some of the rough frame photos, you'll see it.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

The roof is probably covered with SIPs so they are nailed to the OSB, or if not SIPs then whatever substrate the bents are covered with. 



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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

fromthehills said:


> check out some of the rough frame photos, you'll see it.


Aha. Not SIPs per se OSB or plywood shot with foam. 

I made my own SIPs in 2005. Bought a reactor and built a steel jig to house the 2x4's and OSB panels and made enough for the add-on and a kiln chamber. After I no longer needed it Katrina provided the impetus for me to recoup nearly all the money the reactor cost, and coupled with what I saved over buying SIPs I came out way ahead. 




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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

What I did is:

I ripped 16' 2x6 in half, dadoed them to fit7/16 osb. 

I then cut the osb to make a 12" roof panel, and an 8" wall panel

Gorilla glue and clamps.

Laid out 2' centers. Osb "plates" staples

Sheathed. (all in my shop)

I drug these out of the shop, flipped, slid them back in, then sprayed 2lb. foam in them.

Took them out and bolted them to the frame.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

fromthehills said:


> check out some of the rough frame photos, you'll see it.



Purlins.












 





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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

TexasTimbers said:


> Aha. Not SIPs per se OSB or plywood shot with foam.
> 
> I made my own SIPs in 2005. Bought a reactor and built a steel jig to house the 2x4's and OSB panels and made enough for the add-on and a kiln chamber. After I no longer needed it Katrina provided the impetus for me to recoup nearly all the money the reactor cost, and coupled with what I saved over buying SIPs I came out way ahead.
> 
> ...


I got an offer on that machine, and wish I had taken them up on it. But it may still come in handy. I'd build more panels. I sprayed my shop and two houses. I won't do that anymore.

Cool! You did? I thought it was my idea, but I was a couple years behind you.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Purlins.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




The purlins are what you see exposed. The framing the aspen is nailed to is what I described, and what you see in between the foam.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I wonder if you shouldn't build a king or queen truss in this bent. I'm not near the framer you are and have never built an entire frame so take this for what it's worth, which is almost nothing. But it seems like to me that lower post is taking too much of the load transferred by the brace. If you put a king or queen up top - or even a collar tie with a couple braces (essentially a queen) you still won't have a post and you'll spread the load out. 

As it is that post is in a lot of lateral tension on the outside and as much compression inside. I think it might bend outward over time as the arrow indicates and the junction at the brace beam/girt/post will tend to come in. Like I said I am not experienced enough to say this with authority just tossing it out there because you expressed some doubt about it to. 















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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TexasTimbers said:


> .



There's that little red pen again.:yes:












 





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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

The batteries died in the camera. I'll see if I can explain it.

The dumb move on my part was that I built the full truss with only a collar tie, and spanned 36 feet. 

I looked at it, after I set it and said " That's not going to work"

On the west side I have a full height wall, so I retro fit a post there. Then I retro fit this "flying buttress" deal on this side to add triangles. In theory it should transfer some of the mid span rafter load down to the foundation.

See, with time the truss will want to spread under it's own weight. Even with the collar tie, I thought it needed a little help. As it spreads, it would push the top of the wall out. With the triangles in place the force of wanting to spread actually prevents the spreading.

The bottom of this post, that you pointed out, can't move anywhere. It's locked in to the plate, that you can't see in the photo, which is locked into the foundation.

I didn't take it back down, because it was a bear to set. My lift was at her max, at 18 feet in and 24 feet, plus strap length, up. I'll see if I can find pictures of that.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

no, but I found the easy one.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

notice how strong that fork joint is?


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

If my arrow is pointing to the right brace I can't see that bent well enough to know what's going on, but from your description it sounds like there's just a collar tie up there, is that correct? 

I'm not questioning your design so much as just trying to learn. I do have another 16 x 50 addition to build and although I'm going to use mostly post and beam construction (because all but two bents of the frame will be ERC) I am going to TF two of the bents, and both will be clear span also. Of course 16' is no long stretch at all but still you can never learn too much.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

The first is the collar tie I was talking about. The second is the knee that you were pointing at. I just did that for fun. Don't worry, Question away, that's why I'm here, and I'll definitely ask questions when I'm trying to learn. Got batteries for the camera now, too.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

If I had a red pen that drew on my screen, I could explain things better


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

here are a few more


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Cabinetman's just jealous of my red pen. Haha. 

Moving in to a house before it's completely finished is usually the kiss of death to finishing it. I'm not inferring you won't finish it - you seem like the kind of guy that sees things through to the end. But our story goes like this - we had to move into ours going on 3 years ago, before it was even close to finished because crime is real bad in rural areas here especially vacant and nearly-finished houses. They usually gut all the wiring. Ours didn't get that thankfully but our shop and tool trailer got hit to the tune of somewhere over $12000 mostly in tools. It's much closer to being finished but still isn't. I'm going to finish it though - if I live long enough. And I should live long enough, if I don't kick the bucket first. :blink:

Hey I just noticed we use the same tape measure. Like me I'm sure you have many but for the small carry-around I like my little Komelon Touch Lock. The backside of the tape has the handy diameter rule which in my line of work is right handy. I didn't really need to repost your picture and point to it with the arrow, I only did that to show off my new chartreuse colored pen, for Cabinetman's viewing pleasure. :icon_cheesygrin:













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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

The only things I lack are finishing the master shower. A few odd tiles. Installing the rest of the doors and drawer fronts on the cabinets. I built them already, but then I used the hardware on another job. Some baseboard. I have to cut my newel posts to length, and the missus wants a handrail, for some reason. And a few spots of plaster. Oh, she also wants a bedroom door, of all things. And the laundry room needs to be finished. 

Oh and I need to build the back porch, and set stones against the foundation, under the panels, and build a yard wall, and a set of stairs off of the south side. Tile the mudroom and trim that out. Build a ladder to a loft, I was going to make into a little library. So I have to build book shelves. A lid for the laundry chute....

I'm getting depressed. Let's talk about the cool stuff I already did. I didn't do anything today, but there's always tomorrow.


And that's actually my axe sharpening stone, but I do have tons of tapes, I have them all over the place so there's always one when I need it.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

It looks just like a Komelon Touch Lock. But I did get to use my chartreuse pen. 

Okay now when I get depressed about my progress I'll refer back to this list and ask if you have completed the tiles, or door, or trim, or . . . . . 
:shifty:


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Had to look the tape up. I bet it's handy. I sometimes think about a pocket sized tape.

I was using a Starrett, when they were made in America. Nice tape, but I prefer the 16' Fat Max, now. Not as bulky as the 25', but still has the stand out.


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

that 'red pen' picture looks like about a third of a hammer beam bent.
did you do one on the opposing side of the bent?
And no tie beam?

*edit*
I finished reading the second page now. Ignore those questions...

The angle on the dovetails at the purlin ends looks a bit extreme. What angle is it? and why is the short end so narrow?


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Don't know what you mean by "extreme". I don't remember the angle, and I don't remember actually finding the angle. I measured my points out and drew the lines, and cut it.

If you notice, these dovetails have housed shoulders. Which is traditionally reserved for summer beams, but purlins often split, due to the weight being on a smaller portion of the timber. I didn't want that. So I went a little further.


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

no problem with the housing. good idea, actually.
typical dovetails that I have worked with would be around 15 degrees. yours look like about 45 degrees.
they would work fine, but they just look a bit odd for what I am familiar with. not saying it is wrong at all.
there is always more than one way to skin a cat.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

I gotcha. I'm self-taught, as with most of the stuff I do. I'm sure there are other things that are unconventional in my work. It would be nice to have apprenticed for it, but I think I do alright. I haven't had anything fall down..

Of course, odd looking or not, the dovetails don't show, but the purlins are still tight to the rafters.

I'll take a look at the slighter angle on the next job.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Oh, and yea I got that idea from the hammer truss. I'd never built one before, so I gave it a shot.

I didn't have plans for this house, and since it's mine, I just did whatever I wanted to.


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

Seeing how the rafters are being flown it onto the wall plate, I assume the walls are framed using an English tie joint at the mid wall posts to tie beam connection? If so, what does the tiebeam to plate connection look like? Any pictures of that?


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

You lost me, but I'm assuming you mean this:


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## Gerald (Aug 21, 2008)

Very impressive!!!!!!!
Thank you for sharing...I have always been interested in TF just never took the time to really learn it. Your pictures are fantastic.
I have been thinking about a TF strucure for my sawmill shed. This just helps fuel the fire.

Thanks again,
Gerald


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

fromthehills said:


> You lost me, but I'm assuming you mean this:


No you don't mean that, because you can see that on the other side. I don't know what you mean.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Gerald said:


> Very impressive!!!!!!!
> Thank you for sharing...I have always been interested in TF just never took the time to really learn it. Your pictures are fantastic.
> I have been thinking about a TF strucure for my sawmill shed. This just helps fuel the fire.
> 
> ...


It's a lot of fun. If you do more than a shed, I'd recommend having a good plan to work off of, and spending the money on a chain mortiser before you hand cut so many mortises with a chisel that you get tennis elbow. Those were my biggest mistakes.

You have a saw mill, so you are already pretty good at manipulating big timbers, so I won't get into that. Thanks for your interest.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I might mention to you Gerald a product called Timberlinx. Accomplished traditional framers don't like them and I don't blame them, but I think they are fantastic especially when you want the look of timber framing and want to finish the project before having to master complex joinery. 

You still have to use simpler TF joints and you still have to develop good skills such as housing the beams into the post, but the Timberlinx connectors allow you to connect the beams without having to cut the mortise and tenon. 

I've used them with a mix of traditional joints and they're great IMHO. 




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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Interesting. I've never seen those. How long have they been around? I wouldn't use them, but they would probably help a guy that wants to build a porch or entry, without using plates and bolts. How do they work to prevent twisting, if your timber's a little green when you build? 

I did a lot of through bolts and steel plates before I learned to cut joints. That was the engineer's call, though, not mine.


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## fromthehills (Aug 21, 2010)

Here's one that you can see that second truss that shows my temporary solution


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## Gerald (Aug 21, 2008)

TexasTimbers said:


> I might mention to you Gerald a product called Timberlinx.
> 
> Thanks TT I never saw these before. Looks simple enough. I understand why a master TFer might not want to use these. But for a minor leaguer like me they are very appealing.:yes:
> 
> Thanks again....


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