# New Ridgid Hybrid Table Saw available



## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

The new Ridgid R4511 10" hybrid granite topped table saw just became available at Home Depot in this area (Northern VA, outside of DC). I've got it uncrated but not assembled; it weighs 477 pounds in the box, so get help!! unloading it. If you pick it up in a van, try to get them to load the crate front-side-to-the-rear of your minivan (it won't matter in a PU). You need to lay it over on it's back to disassemble the steel shipping frame. I had to cut the shipping frame up to get it out of the van.

The granite is seems like good quality stone. I've heard criticisms about dropping a hammer on it, but cast iron will shatter, too, under a sharp impact.

$599 plus tax!

HD SKU is 750-663, I think.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

You might want to find out the name of a good hernia doctor in the Virginia area. :blink:

Great looking saw, but at nearly 500 pounds, you better have a darn good plan in place for getting this thing out of your van or truck and into your shop! Congrats on the new purchase.


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

*Ridgid R4511 assembly*

I'm about half-way through the assembly process. The directions leave a lot to be desired. They are frustratingly incomplete; they do not completely specify which bolts and brackets go where, and there is a mixture of metric and SAE hardware. 

Based on a cursory visual inspection, the trunnion appears very much like the Craftsman. It is cabinet mounted; very nice.

I managed to unpack most of the parts, and took the motor out to lighten the load. 

Anybody know any good Chiropractors, Osteopaths, or exceptionally muscular, mechanically gifted Samaritans? Beg for their help! I've never worked with anything this heavy.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Wow, you're not wasting any time, are you? I'm just about ready to head over to Lowes to pick up my Delta 36-979. It's *only* 300 pounds. Even so, I'm going to knock on a few neighbors' doors to line up some help when I return. I'm thinking I'm going to need help two times:

* once to get the heavy stuff out of the mini van and flipped upside-down
* once to flip the table saw right-side-up after I've assembled & attached the base


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Glassyeyes,

I'm surprised the instructions are poor. The instructions to my 3660 weren't perfect but were pretty good. I was particularly impressed with the way they bubble packed the hardware in appropriate (and labeled!) groups on large cardboard cards. Usually you get a bag of mixed nuts and bolts.

I saw a couple of the new granite topped models sitting boxed on the floor at two local HD's. I saw the steel frame and wondered if that was for shipping.

With all that weight in your saw, I think the nickel test isn't good enough. We'll only be impressed if you can balance a record album on edge! :laughing:

Bronco: When you do the upside-down part of your saw assembly, do it on a sturdy workbench if you can. If the bench is about the same height as your saw, you can grab the legs and somersault the thing 180 degrees off the bench onto the floor. That way the bench is supporting the weight through most of the operation. I put a couple C-clamps on the bench edge to make sure the saw didn't accidentally slide off the table during the pivot. I took the clamps off halfway through (while the saw was balanced) so the clamps didn't hit the saw and scrape up the paint.

Good luck to both of you with the cool new hardware!!

Bill


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

The nuts, bolts, bars and studs come in several packages, and are somewhat mixed (not sorted by assembly step). For instance, the steel tubing parts for the Herc-U-Lift rolling base are unlabeled, and the diagrams do not show the parts to scale. You have to carefully count the number and size of the holes in each piece. But you only assemble a saw once -- I hope -- and it's worked out so far, and the fit and finish seem quite good -- so far ( I still have the wings and fence to install, and adjustments to make).


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## Ed'sGarage (Aug 16, 2007)

*new saw*

Post some pics for us when you're done with the assmebly. Good luck with your new saw.
Ed


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

*"The Continuing Saga of 'Granite Man' --"*

Yestderday was mostly taken up with Honey-do's and selling the old saw -- I got enough to indulge in a Forrest blade.

ARBOR FLANGE RUNOUT -- under 1/100th inch

Blade-to-Miter-Slot at 90 degrees -- under 1/1000th inch

Blade-to-Miter-Slot at 45 degrees -- abour 14/1000th, easy to shim since the trunnions are cabinet mounted.

 The dust chute is mounted to the underside of the top flange of the leg set. BE CAREFUL. The first mounting option is shown prior to moving the exceptionally heavy main cabinet onto the leg/mobile base set. The leg set tends to flex A LOT during this process, as it depends on bolt-up to the cabinet for most of its rigidity.

The second option in the instructions is after final assembly. They show the saw being flipped on it's back to install the plastic. At about 450 poiunds, especially with such a top-heavy machine, is going to take several men and clearly risks breaking something expensive. A STUBBY SCREWDRIVER AND A LITTLE BENDING IS ALL THAT'S NECESSARY.

Pictures coming soon --


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

*Bad Day at Black Rock*

I guess there's always a skunk cabbage in every garden. It seems that the quality control on the R4511 isn't THAT great; the right wing was cut incorrectly, and couldn't be brought flush with the front edge of the main table. it was off 40/1000ths (short) in front, and proud 27/1000ths in the rear.One of the down sides of granite -- you can't work on it very well with ordinary shop tools.

When I went back to HD, they were very helpful, and called Ridgid customer service. Ridgid is shipping a new wing at no cost, and the HD manager has already said he'll take the saw back if the second wing doesn't fit.

The fence is basically a Delta T2 without the auxiliary faces. I wasn't crazy about the two-piece fence rail, but a homemade internal alignment spine seems to be keeping the two pieces in alignment. The back rail is useless, structurally; it is also in two pieces, and each piece only has two bolt holes, one in the main table and one in the wing, so there is no structural support at the back for the wings. A four-foot piece of 1/8" flat stock cured that, though, without interfering with the hold-down hook at the end of the fence.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

glassyeyes said:


> ...ARBOR FLANGE RUNOUT -- under 1/100th inch


I want to make sure that I'm understanding that number correctly.....0.01" of runout on the arbor flange seems quite high to me, and it will likely be amplified by the blade.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I was wondering about that arbor runout, too. Glassyeyes, did you drop a '0'?? Or was it Wayyy under .01".

Bill


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Wow. Looking at all these tiny numbers has made me feel like I just threw my own table saw together. I used a couple of straight edges and a T-square when doing the assembly, but in general I just held a metal straight edge against the parts I was aligning and I looked for any light bleeding through. Then I kept adjusting until I could see no more light.

How does one make sure precise measurements? My most accurate "tool" for such things is my right eye! Granted, I've had 20-15 vision for years (that puts me in the 85th or 90th percentile for good vision), but am I asking for trouble by not using something more sophisticated?


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

The wonder of dial indicators!


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## Domer (Mar 23, 2008)

*Rigid Table Saw*

Our local HD had one of the new saws on display. It looked terrible. The miter gauge would not go through the slot on the left hand side of the table and fit poorly on the right hand slot. 

I don't know who puts them together but the saw had to be only a few days old and looked worn out. 

Hopefully, they are better when you get them home. 

Domer


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

*Pictures and Replies*

knotscott and dodgeboy, no added zeros. I used a machinist's dial indicator for the arbor runout, for the fence alignment and for the blade-to-miter alignment, accurate to the one thousandth of an inch. Except for the arbor runout, this was probably excessive. When installing and leveling the wings, all I used was a straightedge, until I couldn't get the front of the darn wing to set flush with the front of the main table. I took pix and measurements to HD; they get serious kudos for helpfulness.

Armchair, I don't think the dial indicator is needful except on arbor runout, especially for people with reasonable eyesight. But mine was 20/700 prior to two corneal transplants, 3 more corrective surgeries, and a hard contact, so I don't trust my unaided vision.

Domer, the miter slot seems okay to me, but I've heard of the problem before.

I'm not crazy about the two-piece front and back rails, as I noted elsewhere. I planed a snug fitting wooden insert for the front rail, and added a 48 inch by 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick strap to the back rail, as noted before. I hope they show up in the pictures. "O" indicates the original rear fence bolt holes (two in the main body, in in each wing), "B" indicates two additional bolts added outside the wing, for stiffness.

Pictures attached (I hope!)


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Glassyeyes,

I just checked out your pictures. Very cool saw! It even comes in it's own steel play-pen!

Some observations: The heaviest part of my 3660 was the main unit with the table, apron and trunnion. With yours, you have those parts with the heavier stone table, _plus_ a bigger apron, _plus _the motor. Hernia city! My two sons took the main part down the stairs to the basement and they had their hands full (Dad just had rotator cuff surgery and avoided that chore). Yours would have been a real challenge.

Were those cracks in your concrete floor there before you put the saw down? :laughing:

Regarding your wing alignment. My 3660 came with fence shims for that very reason. I didn't need them but apparently they expected some misalignment. What I didn't like is that my left wing has a low spot in the top middle (or the table has a high spot). The front and back is level but the middle is low (about .010-.020). I think by slightly loosening the middle bolts and judicious application of a dead-blow hammer I may be able to 'adjust' it.

Your fence system is completely different from the 3660's.

The 3660's have a problem in that the thin kerf blade they come with is thinner than the splitter on the guard, causing the wood to bind in the splitter. This should be a recall, IMHO. You'll have to let us know if they corrected that with your saw. Yours has a riving knife?

Good luck with it. You'll have to give us a report on your first test drive.

Bill


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

*Test Drive*

I started cutting new dining room chair seats for reupholstery. The trapezoidal shape was interesting. The fence was quite steady -- rock solid, really. I don't miss my old, non-standard, undersized B&D saw at all. I managed some very nice rabbeting on the seat blanks, too.

Now all I have to do is find that darn foam and reupholster six chair cushions before 7:00 pm tonight!

I helped put together a Cra***man with pierced wings -- we had to use a bucketful of C-clamps and wood blocks and warp them to align with the table.

It is set up for a riving knife, but instead includes the usual cra**y splitter/blade guard combo. I'm going to have to make one, I guess.


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

*Whodunit?*

:furious:Gardner shipped the new wing in two days. However, they wrapped it in all of two layers of bubble wrap, stuffed it in a box that was far too large, and padded it with a little crumpled-up newspaper. It would be interesting to know whether Gardner or FedEx ends up paying for this mistake.

Guess what? I have some interesting black gravel for sale --

I can't say I'd recommend this saw at this point, given the design flaws and quality-control issues.


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

*Another bad day at Black Rock*

The second replacement wing arrived today. Boxed as badly as the first. Chipped up, but not broken. I sent it back with the FedEx driver. I spoke with the manager at Home D, intending to return the saw; he offered 25% off ($150). I'm not sure whether I'll regret taking the discount or not! I guess I'll order that Forrest blade, now.

And it passed the "nickel test," too.


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## rick11 (Jan 25, 2009)

The Bay City, Michigan HD store just called me and said they have the R4511 in stock and on sale for $75.00 off. Today is Thursday April 23.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

This is the first time I’ve ever heard of a granite topped saw. I think I heard granite mentioned before, but I had no idea what it actually was. I went to the Ridged web site to take a look and it sure is a nice looking saw. :thumbsup:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Stone Table Saws*

If God wanted tablesaws to be made out of stone he would have had Moses carve one while he was doing the 10 Commandments.
It's a marketing gimmick, and it must have a lower cost point than cast iron.
Check out this thread: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/gah-i-want-granite-topped-rigid-table-saw-9663/index2/
:yes: bill


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## DaddioDave (Apr 21, 2009)

This beginning woodworker has purchased his first table saw! Home Depot is now running their "Ultimate Power Deal" until May 6th. If you buy over $600 of power tools, you get $150 off (instant savings). Since the Ridgid R4511 table saw is $599, you just need to buy another inexpensive power tool to bring your total purchase over $600. I bought a $20 B&D power screwdriver with the table saw and the saw ended up costing me only $450.

I didn't want to spend very much right now on a saw, since I'm not sure how much time I'll actually be devoting to this new hobby. While I would have preferred a cast iron table top, I'll make due with the granite. My top shows no defects. This saw seems quite competent for an entry level saw, and there is nothing else out there with a riving knife that comes close in price. Now I just have to finish getting it down into my basement shop by myself.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

DaddioDave said:


> This beginning woodworker has purchased his first table saw! Home Depot is now running their "Ultimate Power Deal" until May 6th. If you buy over $600 of power tools, you get $150 off (instant savings). Since the Ridgid R4511 table saw is $599, you just need to buy another inexpensive power tool to bring your total purchase over $600. I bought a $20 B&D power screwdriver with the table saw and the saw ended up costing me only $450..


You have peaked my interest, so I went to Home Depot only to be disappointed. I guess these new saws are only on the east coast because the only thing I can find is a JET 1-1/2 HP 10 In. for $689.99 in Southern CA :wallbash:


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## glassyeyes (Mar 25, 2009)

*Riving knife for Ridgid R4511 table saw*

Steel City (or Orion or TTI) is apparently the manufacturer of this saw. Several steps were taken to cut costs, as you'd expect. The riving knives were not included.

I ordered them from Steel City: 1-877-724-8865
Part #'s: SC10150 and SC10151 for the 2.5 (thin kerf) and 
3.0mm riving knives.
$11.00 each
$08.00 shipping
$03.95 credit card surcharge

DON'T tell them it's for the Ridgid!


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## red (Sep 30, 2008)

It is a great saw at a great price. There have been some "misfits" out there, but most are well machined. My saw had no problems. Once I tuned it, it is very accurate and stays accurate. The fence slides smooth and is right on the money. It is a very heavy saw with no vibration while running. They are readily available here in the south east.


Red


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## jraksdhs (Oct 19, 2008)

*rigid*

buy the jet....rigid only makes good plumbing tools, threaders, pipe wrenches and the such



Sleeper said:


> You have peaked my interest, so I went to Home Depot only to be disappointed. I guess these new saws are only on the east coast because the only thing I can find is a JET 1-1/2 HP 10 In. for $689.99 in Southern CA :wallbash:


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

My interest was also peaked. I went to the HD in Twin Falls, Idaho and after looking at the display model, I totally lost interest in the new top. The top on the display unit, was cracked, had a big chip in the corner and very un-level. Why they are showing this unit in the condition that it is in, is beyond me. No one looking at that display model would purchase this saw. I am sure most will be just fine, and I hope the folks that have purchased them are well pleased. I think I will stay with my six year old Ridgid for now.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

LarrySch said:


> My interest was also peaked. I went to the HD in Twin Falls, Idaho and after looking at the display model, I totally lost interest in the new top. The top on the display unit, was cracked, had a big chip in the corner and very un-level. Why they are showing this unit in the condition that it is in, is beyond me. No one looking at that display model would purchase this saw. I am sure most will be just fine, and I hope the folks that have purchased them are well pleased. I think I will stay with my six year old Ridgid for now.


Odds are good that the damage you see is cumulative. The displays tend to get raided for replacement parts for anyone who received a saw damaged in transit....why they leave them that way is beyond me, but what you see in a display doesn't necessarily represent what you get. There's little doubt that the granite isn't quite as rugged as cast iron, but I'd think under normal home shop circumstances, it'd hold up fine, and is repairable in many cases...time will tell though. The granite on R4511 I looked at was perfectly intact, but a clip on the fence was broken. It otherwise looked like a lot of saw for $599....or $450 with current promotions.


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