# Chain Saw



## CivilEngineer13 (Aug 29, 2008)

I just got a chainsaw the other day off craigslist for cheap! I know about the saws for the most part I guess, but I have little to no idea about the chains. Are there different kinds? Which ones are best? I will just be doing the normal stuff with it: cutting down trees, making firewood/turning blanks, etc. 

So far, it seems to be cutting through green wood really slow, but has no problems with dry wood. The chain on it now is new, but that's all I know about the chain.

Any help would be much appreciated!


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## jeffreythree (Jan 9, 2008)

Here is a bunch of info from one of the big names: http://www.oregonchain.com/faq.htm
I will let others that no more on this matter fill in the rest.


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## CivilEngineer13 (Aug 29, 2008)

Thanks. I was looking at that site the other day and I just don't know what to make of all those different chains. I was just getting more confused than anything.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

CE, 

You don't need to be a saw chain expert, but you should have a basic understanding of saw chain in order to get the most out of your saw. You shouldn't be having trouble cutting through live trees. What brand and model of saw do you have, and how long is the bar? Let's start there. 

The link Jeff posted is a good one, and so is this one. make sure to read at least the links titled:

Pitch and Gauge Explained
How Saw Chain Is Sized

Understanding Cutter Teeth
Round vs. Square

Racing Chain Secrets
What Pro racers Do To Cut fast 

They are all one page, quick-read articles that get right to the point. I know you won't be needing any racing chain, but read the article. It has great illustrations about various terminology which you need to understand. 

Even without knowing your particular saw, Stihl RCS chain is very good, but I have been very happy with Woodsman Pro (it's Carlton chain). Love the price vs durability. But it's difficult to suggest chain without knowing more details. or example your bar could be on the outer limits of what your saw can pull. If so, you would want to consider using skip or semi-skip chain. 

Post your particulars and let's go from there. 


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## CivilEngineer13 (Aug 29, 2008)

Thanks, Texas. That's the info. I was kinda looking for.

I got the Poulan Wild Thing. I know it's not the best and brightest, but it was a "steal-of-a-deal"

The bar is 18"

What would you recommend?


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

You probably have safety chain on it for starters. I hate safety chain. 

What I suggest is go to your nearest small engine shop and just buy one loop of carlton chain for it. Get square chisel full comp. Use it and see how it performs for you. Make sure he doesn't sell you any safety chain. I don't like oregon chain it is too soft but if that's all he has get it anyway and see what it'll do for you. It will take the saw about 8 to 10 tanks of mix to fully break in and give you all the power it can. 

Get it re-tuned after that, and if it still works too hard go to semi-skip and that should help a lot. You can also put a 16" bar on it if all else fails.


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## AuSable Junkie (Apr 28, 2009)

The Poulan wild thing was the first saw I started out with. I used it for 2 years cutting firewood for my home. While it did the job, this saw isn't designed for large jobs like cutting a years worth of wood. I had the same problem as you have with wet wood, and timber over 12" in diameter. I think the 18" bar is part of the problem you have. The engine displacement is 40 cc and the bar is 18" which is a lot of bar for an engine that size. Also check your chain tension. If its too loose, that can drastically effect the performance of the saw. 
As long as you are doing a small/medium amount of cutting, it should serve you well.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

CivilEngineer13 said:


> Thanks, Texas. That's the info. I was kinda looking for.
> 
> I got the Poulan Wild Thing. I know it's not the best and brightest, but it was a "steal-of-a-deal"
> 
> ...


Hi 
I also have the Poulan 18 inch wild thing, and it is an excellent little saw. I have to run mine with a little choke on until it is thoroughly warmed up because the factory adjustments are almost impossible to get at. When I bought the chain saw it came with an anti kick back chain, which never cut well, and as it wore would hardly cut at all, even when freshly sharpened. My brother explained to me that it was because of the anti kick back feature. The rakers [part of the tooth that ejects the chips, and controls depth of cut] were very long compared to standard chain. I eventually replaced the factory chain with a standard style chain with short rakers, and the difference is like night and day. It cuts like a banshee now. I have had the saw for several years, use it a lot, and it still is going strong.

Gerry


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