# working with fresh cut pine



## mmaccaro (May 25, 2009)

Hi, I joined the forum and did some searching around, but couldn't find a quick and easy answer. I cut down a few pine trees in my yard and thought it would be cool to cut a few slices and shellac them. I figured my wife and I could use them as hot plates, coasters, etc.

The problem is, I don't have the slightest idea what to do. Do you have to dry the pine to get rid of the sap before you shellac it. Do you have to sand the pine discs with the grain? Do you wash off the sap with alcohol or something like that? I really don't know where to start.

Basically I just wanted to try to make some cool little coasters but couldn't find the info on where to start.

I really did try to search the web and this forum...but couldn't come up with anything.

Thanks for any help or advice you can offer.


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

Because it would be a tedious task to sand with the grain on a disk, use a ROS (random orbital sander) to make them smooth. They do not need to sand with the grain and you can get a pretty good one for around $50-75 new. 

Consider a mineral oil finish if you're willing to do the upkeep on occasion. A lot of clear finishes don't hold up well under wet conditions. You'll probably get better details from others here.

Good luck,
Rob


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Well, you could always experiment if you are a tinkerer like me. A couple ways to dry the slices are the microwave (preferably not the one in the kitchen, like a $10 yard sale one in the shop) or boil them. 
The microwave put them in for 30-45 seconds on high, then take them out to cool for 3-4 minutes. Repeat this several times. One draw back drying them fast is they will most likely crack. 
Boiling wood may seem like it wouldn't work, but it does. Drop those slices in boiling water for 15 (?) minutes. Then take them out and stick them in a paper sack for a week or so. They should dry slower/more stable. 
Rob mentioned mineral oil...this is a good experiment. In the past I have successfully dried large cross sections (like 24" diameter) of maple/walnut by soaking them with tung oil fresh sawn. I saturate them after I cut them and kept applying oil as the piece would take more (as water left I replaced it with oil) They did not crack and I just finished over the tung oil. Mineral oil should do the same thing.
That was hardwood though and I am not 100% sure how the sap will react in pine, that would be my only question since I have not dried a pine cross section for any reason. Microwave or boiling would both reach the temperature needed to "set the pitch" we call it in the pine, make the sap crystallize and stay hard and not a future problem.


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## mmaccaro (May 25, 2009)

thanks for the replies so far. I think I'll try the boiling method and see how this works for me. Although one of the pieces I want to try to make into an end table is about 2ft in diameter...I don't have a pan that big and it won't fit in a microwave...I'll have to think about what to do with that one!? 

I do have an orbital sander...so I guess I'll use that for sanding the discs.

I'm looking forward to this project...should be pretty cool once its done.

Thanks again for the info. :smile:


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## mmaccaro (May 25, 2009)

Daren,
Thanks again for all the info. I did a google search on "setting the pitch" after you mentioned it and came up with a lot of interesting info. Although nobody mentions boiling water...but I'm trying it anyway!  I checked out your website...cool stuff! You do great work! I was surprised by the ugly on the outside, beauty on the inside pics....Never would have guessed it would look like that! - Marc


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