# Mixol Tints



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hey all,

I just got the 10 assortment Mixol Tint kit. It comes with a color pallette/mixing chart that seems to be primarily geared towards tinting paint. I want to use it to experiment with tinting some oil/varnish mixtures and well as with oil based poly. Is it pretty much trial and error for this? The chart gives percentages by weight but again that seems to apply only to mixing paint colors?

If anyone has any working knowledge if this stuff I would be very interested to here what you have to say.

Thanks.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I just got the 10 assortment Mixol Tint kit. It comes with a color pallette/mixing chart that seems to be primarily geared towards tinting paint. I want to use it to experiment with tinting some oil/varnish mixtures and well as with oil based poly. Is it pretty much trial and error for this? The chart gives percentages by weight but again that seems to apply only to mixing paint colors?
> 
> ...


Tom, i don't have any experience with those particular tints, but I'm sure there no different than dozens of others on the market that are just like them UT's universal tints. black red and yellow will produce most brown colors your looking for, ambers would be yellow and either brown or yellow red and blue. But as you've already assumed, it's up to you to make any custom colors you like. :yes:

Keep in mind that the more you add to your clear, the more opaque it will become. Thats why most people use dyes instead.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> Tom, i don't have any experience with those particular tints, but I'm sure there no different than dozens of others on the market that are just like them UT's universal tints. black red and yellow will produce most brown colors your looking for, ambers would be yellow and either brown or yellow red and blue. But as you've already assumed, it's up to you to make any custom colors you like. :yes:
> 
> Keep in mind that the more you add to your clear, the more opaque it will become. Thats why most people use dyes instead.


Got it...thank you sir......yeah I am going to play around a little bit and see what happens....

My wife is going to start selling her wildlife and landscape photography and i will be making the frames. She wants to do something out of the norm in terms of colors for the frames. I'll play around and see what happens.

Thanks as always....:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

In your experimenting, you can add drops to mineral spirits for direct application, or added to a small amount of oil base poly for coloring. Those solutions can then be added to a larger amount of poly.










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> In your experimenting, you can add drops to mineral spirits for direct application, or added to a small amount of oil base poly for coloring. Those solutions can then be added to a larger amount of poly.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for the tip sir.......let me make sure I have it because I will try today.

So are you saying to add drops of tint to straight MS and then once I acheived the desired color, I can apply the tinted MS mixture directly to the wood? Just let it dry? Wipe it off?

And then with the poly I think you are essentially saying the same thing? Tint a small amount until desired color is reached and then apply directly.

How is the knee coming along by the way? Started PT yet?


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

bump


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> Thank you for the tip sir.......let me make sure I have it because I will try today.
> 
> So are you saying to add drops of tint to straight MS and then once I acheived the desired color, I can apply the tinted MS mixture directly to the wood? Just let it dry? Wipe it off?


Depending on how much MS and how much tint, it can be a very bland, weak mixture, but still carry color. It gets wiped after the mix colors the wood, to make for an even application. This process is my method for making pickling stains using oil base paints instead of tint.



Tom5151 said:


> And then with the poly I think you are essentially saying the same thing? Tint a small amount until desired color is reached and then apply directly.


It's done this way to create a solution. Using the pre-mix allows a gradual mix ratio to the supply needed. It could be a "too much at a time" if done by adding the tint to the overall batch.



Tom5151 said:


> How is the knee coming along by the way? Started PT yet?


Thanks for asking. It gets a bit more usable each day. Another couple of weeks should provide normal use. I have a PT program that I was in a little over a year ago, when the doc tried PT first. It's the same set of exercises as post op.










 







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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Depending on how much MS and how much tint, it can be a very bland, weak mixture, but still carry color. It gets wiped after the mix colors the wood, to make for an even application. This process is my method for making pickling stains using oil base paints instead of tint.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Glad to hear you are making good progress with the knee. I am probably due soon for some shoulder work myself, but putting it off as long as possible.

I tried mixing the tint with MS and for some reason it just doesn't mix very well. I stirred and mixed for quite a while and it just never mixed in well.

On the other hand, it does mix quite well with poly and with my BLO/MS/POLY mixtures. I tried an ounce or so of Poly at a time with different color mixes. Not to bad at all. I have a lot more playing to do but so far so good...

Thanks.:thumbsup:


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

You'll find it mixes well with PGT also, mineral spirits is just to weak of a solvent for it is all.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> You'll find it mixes well with PGT also, mineral spirits is just to weak of a solvent for it is all.


Ah okay.....I'll try some in straight PGT......man does PGT smell a LOT....WOW.......lol:blink:


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> Ah okay.....I'll try some in straight PGT......man does PGT smell a LOT....WOW.......lol:blink:


HMMM............... I think they sell an odorless type at the art stores if i remember correctly Tom, I'll check it out and get back.

OK, checked it out, evidently the odorless type doesn't have the solvency power of the natural PGT, so forget that, lol. But if your only solving a small amount of UTC color, you can just use several drops of PGT and then continue thinning with MS, once it is in solution with the PGT, it should be fully miscible with the MS, try it and see, that will keep your smell down to a minimum at least OK? get back with your findings please, if that does not work out i have other methods, though it should. lol


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> HMMM............... I think they sell an oderless type at the art stores if i remeber correctly Tom, i'll check it out and get back.


Thank you chemmy. It would be great if they did. The stuff i got at the big box has a really powerful odor. It permeates the house right away. I use it in the garage but the smells goes everywhere and remains for a very long time....

I also found that it melts styrofoam cups very nicely too....lol......i was experimenting with some color mixes of poly and PGT. I walked away for about 5 minutes and came back and smelled a really odd odor. It was a combination of the PGT and the styrofoam......


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> HMMM............... I think they sell an oderless type at the art stores if i remeber correctly Tom, i'll check it out and get back.
> 
> OK, checked it out, eveidentally the oderless type is doesnot have the solvency power of the natural PGT, so forget that, lol. But if your only solving a small amout of UTC color you can just use several drops of PGT and then continue thinning with MS, once it is solution with the PGT it should be fully miscable with the MS, try it and see, that will keep your smell down to a minimum at least ok? get back with your findins pease, if that does not work out i have other methods, though it should. lol


Thank you for checking sir...I will give this a shot and see how it goes....

I am trying to get a nice honey/amber color....so far I have either gotten it too red, too yellow or too brown......I'll keep plugging away......:thumbsup:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> I tried mixing the tint with MS and for some reason it just doesn't mix very well. I stirred and mixed for quite a while and it just never mixed in well.


That's odd. Maybe I used something else. It was sometime in the last century. :laughing: 

Try:

Lacquer thinner/acetone
2-Butoxyethanol
Methyl ethyl ketone
VM&P naptha
Turpentine
Xylene
Ethylbenzene

One of these is likely to work.










 







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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> Thank you for checking sir...I will give this a shot and see how it goes....
> 
> I am trying to get a nice honey/amber color....so far I have either gotten it too red, too yellow or too brown......I'll keep plugging away......:thumbsup:


Tell you the truth Tom, you'd be better off with oil pigments, think artist type. black and orange and yellow is all you should need, save the tinnts you have for making a wood stain instead ok?:yes:

Some universal tints just are not really "universal" lol, i would have suggested xylol next like C'man if the PGT didn't work but i'm sure it will.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> That's odd. Maybe I used something else. It was sometime in the last century. :laughing:
> 
> Try:
> 
> ...


LOL.....I have several of those so i will try them as well......thank you sir


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> Tell you the truth Tom, you'd be better off with oil pigments, think artist type. black and orange and yellow is all you should need, save the tinnts you have for making a wood stain instead ok?:yes:


oil pigments?.....hmmmmmmmm....i assume these get mixed in with the poly?....are they readily available and fully soluable in poly?...any particular one you would suggest?


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> oil pigments?.....hmmmmmmmm....i assume these get mixed in with the poly?....are they readily available and fully soluable in poly?


Should find them at any art store, pearls, dick blick or others. Yes they are already in linseed oil so fully compatible especially in small added amounts, wouldn't use them in large amounts though since its raw oil not boiled unless i :yes:added japan dryer.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> Should find them at any art store, pearls, dick blick or others. Yes they are already in linseed oil so fully compatible especially in small added amounts, wouldn't use them in large amounts though since its raw oil not boiled unless i :yes:added japan dryer.


awesome......I will look for black oragne red and yellow to start with.....one of these days I may just get the hang of this.......or maybe i should just paint my peices.....lol....hmmmmmmmmmm


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> oil pigments?.....hmmmmmmmm....i assume these get mixed in with the poly?....are they readily available and fully soluable in poly?


Yes they will go directly into poly since they are in linseed oil to begin with, especially since your only using small amounts, if large amounts were used i would advise an additon of japan dryer to the mix. Oil pigments are a standard in the industry and i used to buy them in quarts to gallons for stain and glazing operations. These were "industrial pigments not highly refined like artist colors since it was for industria use not fine art. 

When you get to the point where your making dozens of things daily, probably in the next couple of weeks, i will give you any info on where to purchase gallons or drums ok, LOL!!! :laughing:

OOOOOPS, didn't realize the other went through. mybad.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Tom5151 said:


> awesome......I will look for black oragne red and yellow to start with.....one of these days I may just get the hang of this.......or maybe i should just paint my peices.....lol....hmmmmmmmmmm


something along these lines??

Amazon.com: Reeves Oil Color Paints- Set of 12 Colors: Patio, Lawn & Garden


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> something along these lines??
> 
> Amazon.com: Reeves Oil Color Paints- Set of 12 Colors: Patio, Lawn & Garden


Look for individual oil colors , dont spend money on colors not used on or in wood finishing Tom, ok?

Black, burnt umber, raw umber, raw sienna, burnt sienna, yellow french ochre, Van **** brown, titanium white, mineral orange, light chrome yellow, etc.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Crap, forget that!!

just go to http://www.earthpigments.com/index.cfm, forget buying already made concoctions, just by the dry colors them selves!!

Then you can mix them in any medium you want!!!

Brain is going numb here, cant see, cant remeber, fading fast.............................. sigh lol:laughing:

This where iget all my touch up powders from and special use colors, extra fine pigments 50 microns or less.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> Crap, forget that!!
> 
> just go to http://www.earthpigments.com/index.cfm, forget buying already made concoctions, just by the dry colors them selves!!
> 
> ...


Thank you sir. I appreciate it. I see they have a fairly reasonably priced kit of powders....I may try that as a start. It has most of the colors you mentioned above.....:thumbsup:

so these can be put right in poly or some of my home brews?.......and do they effect transparency much?


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> Thank you sir. I appreciate it. I see they have a fairly reasonably priced kit of powders....I may try that as a start. It has most of the colors you mentioned above.....:thumbsup:
> 
> so these can be put right in poly or some of my home brews?.......and do they effect transparency much?


no more than what you have, all colors have "opacity" though Tom, so yes it will affect the transparency of the wood. The only way to overcome that is with dyes. Depending on how much color pigment you add will determine how opaque it becomes, so if your just looking for a semi-transparent amber, then it should not affect it very much, but you will need to be the one that decides how much you like or dislike it no matter what pigments you use. 

Before you spend anymore money, have you looked at trans-tints amber dyes? you may want to consider using them if opacity is something you'd rather avoid.

On the dry pigments it is best to initially slurry them with the thinner to wet them out and then add to the poly. Mix them up with MS first, then slowly add a little poly, and then add the rest of the brew once the small batch is thuroughly mixed and stir well ok? Also make sure to strain the mix before use in case the is any agglomeration of the particles that cuased tiny lumps.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> no more than what you have, all colors have "opacity" though Tom, so yes it will affect the transparency of the wood. The only way to overcome that is with dyes. Depending on how much color pigment you add will determine how opaque it becomes, so if your just looking for a semi-transparent amber, then it should not affect it very much, but you will need to be the one that decides how much you like or dislike it no matter what pigments you use.
> 
> Before you spend anymore money, have you looked at trans-tints amber dyes? you may want to consider using them if opacity is something you'd rather avoid.
> 
> On the dry pigments it is best to initially slurry them with the thinner to wet them out and then add to the poly. Mix them up with MS first, then slowly add a little poly, and then add the rest of the brew once the small batch is thuroughly mixed and stir well ok?


Makes sense......I appreciate the detailed instructions very much....I am not really opposed to the opacity...i was just more curious than anything else.

I have an experimentation budget this year....so if it would be a good idea to try those to get the warm amber tones i am looking for, I am very open to doing so. Maybe i should experiment with that first before the pigments. Although I'll probably do both just to see what I like best.

Are the trans tint dyes available under a certain brand name or should I just google "trans tint dye"?

I just googled and saw that it is readily available. Am I correct in reading that it cannot be mixed with poly? It appears this is to be mixed with either water or some other solvent and appied directly to the peice and allowed to dry? Is that accurate?


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> Makes sense......I appreciate the detailed instructions very much....
> 
> I have an experimentation budget this year....so if it would be a good idea to try those to get the warm amber tones i am looking for, I am very open to doing so. Maybe i should experiment with that first before the pigments. Although I'll probably do both just to see what I like best.
> 
> Are the trans tint dyes available under a certain brand name or should I just google "trans tint dye"?


http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/index.html


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

chemmy said:


> http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/index.html


 
I see that there is a lot of very good info out there on this stuff. I do see that it canot be added to poly. I will probabaly try it along with the dry pigment powder and see what i like better.

Thanks again


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> I see that there is a lot of very good info out there on this stuff. I do see that it canot be added to poly. I will probabaly try it along with the dry pigment powder and see what i like better.
> 
> Thanks again


That's correct...not to poly. You could use Tints-All, miscible in most anything, which I think the box stores carry, along with some paint stores. 










 







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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Tom5151 said:


> I see that there is a lot of very good info out there on this stuff. I do see that it canot be added to poly. I will probabaly try it along with the dry pigment powder and see what i like better.
> 
> Thanks again


Sorry tom wasn't thinking again, your right, won't mix with alipahatic solvents. 

Oil solubles are out of the question because of bad fade resistance, That leaves nano pigments. The only comany offering them now that i know of is rustoleum but i dont know if the BB stores are carrying them or not so you will have to check ok? also i dont know what colors they come in so check that also.

Well checked it out their "ultimate stain nano pigments, is unfortuntely a polystain mix not unlike minwax polyshades. so thats out of the question, i looked at the color selection anyway and saw nothing of real use.

So i suggest either sticking with the dry pigment colors or the artist colors ok?


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Gentlemen as always I appreciate your time and help. I cannot tell you how helpful this information has been. 

If you guys lived closer I'd buy ya a beer...:drink:


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