# General questions about a 12'x8' woodworking shed



## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

I'm sorry if this isn't the correct subforum for this type of question, but I couldn't find any subforum that fit, so I picked the "General Woodworking Discussion" area.

I'm looking for any advice and tips or tricks with respect to using a 12' x 8' shed in my backyard as a wordworking and hobbyist shed.

My wife has given me the OK to buy a "Rancher"-style shed from Lowes and have it installed in the backyard. The discounted installed price will be about $2,600 and this includes the 12' x 8' structure along with a lot of upgrades (twin metal doors, a window, 2 skylights, storage, vents, etc.). I can save about $300 if I build it myself, but my skill level isn't there yet, so I'm going to pay Lowes to assemble it. (See Post #12 below for some photos of the shed and the space I have to work with.)

Anyway, I'd like to know if I'll be able to keep (*EDIT:* and _use_) all my tools out there (current and planned) without having the shed become a rust-bucket for the tools and machinery inside. I'll have a 10" contractor's saw out there along with a drill press, a sanding belt, a router & router table, and lots and lots of old tools that I inherited from my Granddad years ago. I live in the Seattle area, so it rains A LOT. But I'm hoping that with the proper ventilation I can keep the tools in the shed dry.

Is this possible? Would it help if I added, say, a vapor barrier to the shed after it's built, or if I added insulation + plastic sheeting? I'm even prepared to wipe down everything periodically with an oily cloth if that's what it takes. Or am I just asking for trouble?

The thing is: I've run out of room in the garage, so this is the best option for me to get the room I need for my various hobbies: wood working, RC airplanes & gliders, trap shooting (which involves cleaning the guns regularly), and building guitar pedals (soldering, etc).


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

Hi

I think 12x8 is going to be a tight fit in the long run, but I've seen pictures of people that make do with similar or less. You say you want to keep them out there, but you don't mention using them out there.

Anyway, you and I are from the same neck of the woods. I would suggest getting a dehumidifier. I have one in my 25x25 garage/shop and I can keep the humidity down to 35% during our wet winters. I keep all the iron waxed. So far this has worked out OK for me.
I pull about a gallon of water per day out of the air. I have not set up the hose that drains to the outside, so I have to empty every other day. That part is a drag, and the only reason I have not hooked up the hose is because during the winter I haven't figured out how to keep it from freezing and then backing up into the garage.
I have a LG model designed to function down to 30 degrees. Most units are only good to mid 40's or so.... so make sure to look for that spec when making a purchasing decision.

My garage was VERY damp and the first winter we moved in, all our box's of stuff that we hadn't unpacked were almost wet to the touch. I got the LG and within a few days of running you could tell the water in the cardboard had been sucked out. I also keep my motorcycle in there (lots of chrome), and it stays nice and dry.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Wood4Fun said:


> I think 12x8 is going to be a tight fit in the long run, but I've seen pictures of people that make do with similar or less. You say you want to keep them out there, but you don't mention using them out there.


I agree that I might quickly outgrow a 12x8 shed. Lowes also offers a 12x10 Rancher (same style, but more room), but the 12x10 is 9 feet, 4 inches high, and my community only allows a maximum height of 9 feet. :furious: The 12x8 is exactly 9 feet high. I'm afraid of getting "out of spec" if I exceed the height limit and then getting in trouble with the Home Owner's Association. Having said that, 12x10 would be about the biggest size I could get for the available area in my back yard, so even if I hire a shed contractor to do this, the shed would have to be 12x10 or smaller.

I am, however, planning to use all these tools in the shed, not just store them there.

I didn't think about using a de-humidifier. I'm not familiar with these things, so some research is in order. Thanks for the feedback.


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

Those dang HOA's.. dirty rats. well, like I said, I've seen pictures of people making do with less, so it is doable. You just need to be creative about how you use the area.

I got my dehumidifier off eBay and it was a refurbished model. It has run continuously for the past 3.5 years - well, at least nine months out of the year. 
I think new they run about $300 or so, but well worth in in the long run.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Wood4Fun said:


> Those dang HOA's.. dirty rats.


Yeah, tell me about it! :laughing:

Those bums even have a stipulation that you can't connect any utilities to a shed. My plan is to adhere to the letter of the law if not the spirit. I plan to run a buried 20 amp power line out to the shed (this will be done professionally and properly according to whatever is required by the law), but it will require a manual connection to a junction box on the outside of my house to complete the circuit. That way, I can argue that the electrical connection is only temporary and is little more than a safe and buried version of an extension cord.

I'll bet I could make a convincing argument that I'll need power out there to keep a dehumidifier running 24/7. I think the intent is to keep people from building a "Mother-In-Law Apartment" in the backyard with electricity, plumbing, sewer, phone, cable TV, and so on. But with this HOA, I'm not taking any chances.


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## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

Armchair Bronco said:


> I agree that I might quickly outgrow a 12x8 shed. Lowes also offers a 12x10 Rancher (same style, but more room), but the 12x10 is 9 feet, 4 inches high, and my community only allows a maximum height of 9 feet. :furious:



If you have fair drainage there dig out 10" deep for the shed. Put down some 6x6 pressure treated to act as skids to keep your floor off the ground and your still below the 9' limit. Add a couple inches to the excavation if you don't want to take any chances.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Armchair Bronco said:


> Yeah, tell me about it! :laughing:
> 
> Those bums even have a stipulation that you can't connect any utilities to a shed. My plan is to adhere to the letter of the law if not the spirit. I plan to run a buried 20 amp power line out to the shed (this will be done professionally and properly according to whatever is required by the law), but it will require a manual connection to a junction box on the outside of my house to complete the circuit. That way, I can argue that the electrical connection is only temporary and is little more than a safe and buried version of an extension cord.


I had a similar experience with running electrical power to a shed. It turned out that I could build a 12x12 shed without a building permit as long as I did not run utilities, but getting a permit opened a whole new set of requirements that forbid me from having a shed at all. And when the nosey old woman next to me kept calling the building inspector on me, it was suggested that I could run an extension cord out to the shed anytime I wanted as long as it wasn’t fastened in a permanent manner. 
And back to the topic, there was not enough room to do much inside the shed when I got a table saw. I then decided to put wheels on everything and wheel stuff outside as I needed them.


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

> run an extension cord out to the shed anytime I wanted as long as it wasn’t fastened in a permanent manner.


that was my thought



> I then decided to put wheels on everything and wheel stuff outside as I needed them.


I'll bet the nosy neighbor loved that


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

ScottyB said:


> If you have fair drainage there dig out 10" deep for the shed. Put down some 6x6 pressure treated to act as skids to keep your floor off the ground and your still below the 9' limit. Add a couple inches to the excavation if you don't want to take any chances.


I thought about that, too, but drainage has been an on-going problem in the backyard, and if I were to dig down, I'd be asking for trouble.

We're planning to have a tree cutting service come in and take out a couple of diseased trees in the back part of our lot and then hire someone else to dig out the stumps. These trees are at the base of a small rise, and we're thinking about cutting into the "hill" a little bit and making a low retaining wall, maybe 18" to 24" high. But that's just intended to move the shed back a bit from the house. (Our total lot size is only 5,616 feet with an 1,800 square foot house.) Landscaping change like this won't affect current drainage patters, but anything else might make it worse.

I'm trying to read everything I can about building a foundation for a shed taking into account the wet weather and already-poor drainage we have in the yard. So far, some combination of a thick gravel bed + railroad ties with a plastic layer on top of the ties seems like the way to go.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Wood4Fun said:


> I'll bet the nosy neighbor loved that


Yea, she than started calling the fire department to report a family of illegal’s living in my shed. :no:


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## OpaDC (Mar 13, 2008)

I live in the second rainiest city in the country, Pensacola, so I am used to dealing with wet. I literally work out of my garage (read storage area, small woodwork area, washer/dryer...car? :laughing::laughing. I wheel bigger tools and table out to the little covered area in front of the garage. I have an 8 x 10 aluminum shed that is strictly garden stuff storage. I mention this for two reasons. 
1. You mention doing other hobbies which I assume means stuff scattered around for various projects. (Don't tell me you do one at a time or are a neat freak!!!:no How tall are the side walls to the shed? How high do you shuffle stuff around, i.e. flipping things over, moving wood around, etc? I can't imagine trying to do that in my shed, even if it were 2 ft higher than it's 7 ft center height. If you could build a platform in front it may help, especially if you can put removable cover over it (to please HOA).
2. Did I mention the rain here? How is your shed built? Are flooring and walls sealed to prevent water blowing and leaking in? When we get our summer thunderstorms the winds can whip up the rain pretty good and I even have to make sure garage door is closed sometimes. The shed??? Yea. it gets wet inside no matter how much caulk I use on floor gaps. Mine is on slab and shed not really designed to be waterproof. That being said, even if I got floor sealed it still lets some water in where walls meet roof. Not lots but makes for extreme humidity (or dew point if you prefer) levels. 

Maybe you can split your hobbies between the garage and the shed. Hope this gives you some things to consider from one who deals with lots of moisture.

p.s. Just thought of one last thing (promise): Is the 9' height from floor deck to top? Will the floor be built up a little? (Thinking HOA) You could end up exceeding 9'.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

They say a picture's worth 1,000 words. Here's a shot of the space in my back yard that I can work with. It's not much, although it's one of the larger lots in this neighborhood. We're planning to cut down the two trees closest to the orange & blue sand box -- both are very diseased and need to go.



And here's the Lowe's "Rancher" 12' (w) x 8' (d) x 9' (h) shed I've got my eye on. According to the HOA covenant, the shed must look like house, with the same siding (cedar) and roof material. By the time I get done painting it (cream white with a white trim and red doors and shutters), it will look like a miniature version of my house!



And here's a shot of the interior of the shed (from the left-hand side where the window is located).


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## Allthumbs27 (Dec 25, 2008)

Build a shed yourself and use it as "on the job training." Those straw built sheds are rinky dink. The people who throw them together are even more sketchy than the finished product. You will be tearing it apart and hauling it out within a few years. Or end up having to reinforce the building with more braces and another layer of flooring. Thats my 99 cents. Its not hard to build a shed especially one of that size. Cowboy up and give it a shot.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Allthumbs27 said:


> Build a shed yourself and use it as "on the job training." Those straw built sheds are rinky dink. The people who throw them together are even more sketchy than the finished product. You will be tearing it apart and hauling it out within a few years. Or end up having to reinforce the building with more braces and another layer of flooring. Thats my 99 cents. Its not hard to build a shed especially one of that size. Cowboy up and give it a shot.


You're not the first person to say this! I'm half inclined to use the Lowes shed as a starting point for my own design. But I do think I'd feel better if I could work as an "aprentice" next to an "old master". Someone at work is going to put me in touch with a guy who builds sheds for a living, and apparently he's competitive with the prices @ Lowes and HD. The Lowes shed comes with a "Handman Package" that I don't want but would end up paying for, anyway. The "workbenches" were laughably flimsy.


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## Allthumbs27 (Dec 25, 2008)

Yea I had a friend who went the HD route and in after putting new braces up for the roof and an extra layer of plywood on the floor he gave up the fight and tore it down. We ended up building twice the shed that was 100 times more sturdy for less than he had invested in the first one. I would go any route that is the opposite way of HD or Lowes. Learn from this guy.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

I just found some plans & an article on Popular Mechanics for building a 9x13 shed. It's not rocket science, but (as we say in the software business), "It's not trivial". I think I need to find a shed contractor who will let me work as an apprentice on my shed project.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I have an 8'x10' shed that I use for storage. That thing is SMALL!!!

Remember, that those dimensions are OUTSIDE dimensions.

The actual inside working width in an 8x12 shed is much less than 8 feet. You could not even turn around in there with an 8 foot 2x4.

I think you would be wasting your money purchasing any thing that size.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Build your own shed!*

Make the foot print as big as they allow, make the roof pitch/slope
to allow 9' at the peak, I like a "shed style" roof, but that may not fly in your HOA.I'd put double doors on or one large one, pour a slab, or use patio blocks then lay down Wolman. plywood for a floor, I would use foam insulating board everywhere I could, walls, floor and ceiling. A few bin type windows or sliders would let in light and fresh air. If you can't get away with your wiring idea, I would use a HD 30 amp twist lock extension cord with an "outside weatherproof outlet" mounted on the home professionally installed for code, 2- 8' long flouresent lights, and a 20 amp outlet inside for a heater and dehumidifier. Dehumidifiers draw about 5-6 amps. You might be better off with a small 6000 BTU window or wall mounted AC unit,( $100 on sale at the Depot), it will take the moisture out of the air and cool it as well in the summer. I'd use thin wall conduit around the shop with about 4 double duplex boxes. You may be able to bring 220v. in and then split into 2-120v circuits. If you make ANY dust in this confined space you must first catch it with a shop vac, then filter the air, and wear a mask. A bathroom ventilator fan would exchange the air and be quiet. A slab in front would allow sawing outside weather permitting. A roll up canopy over the door way would provide "shade" and rain protection. I know this sounds like a lot of work, but I know you can do it if you try. You can get plenty of "free" advice here and from an expert close to you. My neighbor enlisted the help of a handyman for building his 2 sheds and they became friends and did tool swaps and labor trades for time worked. My advice to you.. go 4 it! bill :yes:
The brown shed is mine. The grey shed is my neighbors. The green structure is
the "dog house/clubhouse/get away..?


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Armchair,
A shed is a great project to earn your sawdust legs on. It is just some very basic carpentry skills. You could build the whole thing with a circular saw, hammer, utility knife, pencil, and tape rule. Find a friend or relative that has some decent skills to help. You could do it in a weekend. Keep the size on a four foot increment to minimize wastee. I would recommend a 12 x 12 or a 12 x 16 if you can. If you don't want to cut any rafters (which is really a simple process), you can order small triangle shaped trusses for the roof from your local lumberyard. If you are using T1-11 for the sides, get the real plywood based stuff, no waferboard. Same thing for the floor, use plywood (treated if you like). Cedar for the trim, not pine. The visqueen underneath is a good idea. Insulate the walls inside to help temper temperature swings. Build overhanges into the roof all the way around, 12" is nice. These really are a fun project. You can add a small window with a flower box underneath to make it look a little homey too.
Mike Hawkins


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Thanks for the suggestions.

Last night, I found a site called "ShedKing.net". For $5.95, I downloaded some plans for a 12x8x9 Saltbox shed. The basic layout is almost identical to the Lowes shed I was looking at, so I can compare apples to apples. http://shedking.net/Shed_plans_for_a_Neat_saltbox_shed.html










Something like this really does look like it would be a fun project. I guess I need to go out to the yard and use some stakes and brightly colored taped to mark off some different dimensions (12x8, 12x10, 12x12, etc.) to figure out just how big I can make this thing. If I'm building it myself, it'll be easy to keep the height right at the 9 foot limit.

I agree that even at 12x12, things'll be "cozy" inside. That's OK. Keep in mind that this will be a general purpose hobby shed, not just a wood working shed. Even 12x8 would be plenty big enough for building 1 meter wingspan bungee launched RC gliders. And for the electronics projects I do, I only need enough workbench space to do some soldering with a 3rd hand (for electric guitar pedals). If I need more room than the shed offers for wood working projects, I'll just roll the table saw down a ramp and do my cutting outside in the sun.

I'm envious of all you guys who have shy acres of land to work with. Me -- I'll have to make due with 5,600 square feet.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

"I'll just roll the table saw down a ramp and do my cutting outside in the sun."

Now that should be fun. I have enough trouble rolling it around on the concrete garage floor, let alone up/down a ramp onto a grass/dirt yard.

George


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> "I'll just roll the table saw down a ramp and do my cutting outside in the sun."
> 
> Now that should be fun. I have enough trouble rolling it around on the concrete garage floor, let alone up/down a ramp onto a grass/dirt yard.
> 
> George


We're planning to rip up a lot of the so-called "grass" in our backyard and put down garden tiles. I'm thinking I could make a nice slate path out to the shed along with a small, level slate patio in front of the shed doors.

I admit, though, that "rolling the table saw down a ramp" might be easier said than done. If it takes a system of winches and pulleys to do this, I'll just keep the table saw in the shed and focus on smaller projects! :thumbsup:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> "I'll just roll the table saw down a ramp and do my cutting outside in the sun."
> 
> Now that should be fun. I have enough trouble rolling it around on the concrete garage floor, let alone up/down a ramp onto a grass/dirt yard.
> 
> George


You need bigger wheels. :thumbsup:
I have 5” casters on my saw and don’t have any trouble wheeling it around. I saw an article in one of the woodworking magazines about someone who built a cart with 16” bicycle wheels in front and 10” casters in the back of his saw. The cart had wood drawers to store his stuff. :thumbup1:I was and maybe someday build one for myself.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41523http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/general-questions-about-12x8-woodworking-shed-9370/index2/


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

Thanks for all the suggestions. It turns out that a friend of ours who lives in the same community is a carpenter. He specializes in finishing work but he's built sheds before and he's willing to act as my "mentor" on this project. His wife is visiting family back in Budapest, Hungary so he's on his own for the next 6 to 8 weeks. I'm going to show him the plans for the 12x8x9 shed I downloaded and we'll see if we can scale things up to a 12x10x9 shed, instead.

He's also offered to help me learn how to use my new table saw correctly.

I now have 3 weeks to get my act together and assemble all the paperwork for the Home Owner's Association (tree removal, stump removal, building plans, neighbor signatures, photos, etc.). I'm glad you guys convinced me to do this myself instead of forking over $2,600 to Lowes for a pre-built shed. As it is, I'll probably be spending more than that, but I'll get a much higher quality shed in the end. I can't wait to get started!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Tree removal!*

Hey guy,
Just as it is important to use tools safely, we don't what to hear any stories about how the tree "fell" on the house! I don't know if you plan to have it removed professionally or a "do it yourself" project, but, trees can be like women, tall, slender, good looking and   unpredictable. Get some qualified assistance, licensed, bonded and insured. And as far as the shed, I hope we have had a positive influence on you and will be looking forward to the "in progress photos" :yes: What a great stoke of good fortune to have the mentor as well!:smile: bill


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

^^Yep, the trees will be removed by licensed professionals. Not only are the trees too close to the house for comfort, but they're both diseased. We live in the Pacific Northwest, and tree removal is fairly common where we live (lots of tall pine trees and Douglas Firs). Dang expensive (up to $300 to $400 for really big trees), but that's what the market commands.

Then there's the secondary cost of getting the tree stump dug out. The removers can drill it out, be we've found it's cheaper to hire a small crew and let them dig away for a day.


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## dollis (Dec 28, 2008)

*Electrical Service.*

IMHO Try to talk to the HOA first and see what they will allow before you try finding a way around it though. the honey approach is better than the vinegar. The electrical service is an easy one to get around. The term "Temporary" is limited to one year in a lot of states. However if i was in a HOA i would use a direct burial cable in conduit run it to a 240v 50Amp outlet plug located on the house main breaker box. This way you have a sub panel in the shed allowing a second circuit for lights plus 2-3 more for the future expansion. If you put a plug on both ends you can also argue that the building can be moved at any time by simply unplugging it at both ends. If they through a fit over it the direct burial cable can be used as a heavy extension cable if you need to lay it on the ground.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

dollis said:


> IMHO Try to talk to the HOA first and see what they will allow before you try finding a way around it though. the honey approach is better than the vinegar. The electrical service is an easy one to get around. The term "Temporary" is limited to one year in a lot of states. However if i was in a HOA i would use a direct burial cable in conduit run it to a 240v 50Amp outlet plug located on the house main breaker box. This way you have a sub panel in the shed allowing a second circuit for lights plus 2-3 more for the future expansion. If you put a plug on both ends you can also argue that the building can be moved at any time by simply unplugging it at both ends. If they through a fit over it the direct burial cable can be used as a heavy extension cable if you need to lay it on the ground.


I'm also thinking that given the wet weather over here, I can make a pretty compelling argument that a shed used to store metal tools needs to have power to run a dehumidifier 24/7 during the wet fall and winter months (not to mention the wet spring and summer months!). Otherwise, the shed will be little more than a mold factory.


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

Put the double door on the end of the building, and put a man door on the face, Then put your table saw up against the double doors and you will not need to move it, just open the doors and fold up a out feed table and you are good to go. With a 12' deep shop you should be able to work 10' material that way. For small hobby work I think 12x10 will work. It will be about the bare minimum, and you will really need to keep it clean and organized but it should work. Also make sure you have 8'clear so you can stand up plywood. But the doors on the front like lowes has will never work, and for reference, I have a 8X10 shed in my backyard I built in a weekend for my wife's crap, looks very similar to the lowes shed, but properly framed with 2x4 on 16"centers and a 40 year roof, and I only spent $850 in materials. I am betting you could build a 14X10 which would be a much better size for around 2k insulated and sheet rocked.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Scribbles, 
Good idea on the doors, makes a lot of sense. 
Armchair,
You ought to design your shed like Youngwoods bird houses. Make it a themed shed. You might end up the envy of the neighborhood. (At least the envy of the guys in your neighborhood.:laughing
Mike Hawkins


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Armchair Bronco said:


> ^^Yep, the trees will be removed by licensed professionals. Not only are the trees too close to the house for comfort, but they're both diseased. We live in the Pacific Northwest, and tree removal is fairly common where we live (lots of tall pine trees and Douglas Firs). Dang expensive (up to $300 to $400 for really big trees), but that's what the market commands.
> 
> Then there's the secondary cost of getting the tree stump dug out. The removers can drill it out, be we've found it's cheaper to hire a small crew and let them dig away for a day.


'
Your tree removal is cheap compared to here in the panhandle of Florida. At my condo we recently paid a little over $2,000 to have an oak removed. 

On the other hand we have people with machines that grind out the stumps. Stump grinding is relatively cheap.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> '
> Your tree removal is cheap compared to here in the panhandle of Florida. At my condo we recently paid a little over $2,000 to have an oak removed.
> 
> On the other hand we have people with machines that grind out the stumps. Stump grinding is relatively cheap.


My wife just said that we got a deal on the last tree removal we had done. The guy was a friend of a friend, and we let him keep the cut down pine tree to sell for firewood (which isn't cheap). But we ended up hiring a small crew to remove the stump because that's what's really expensive around here.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Around here no one would buy a pine tree for firewood. The feeling is that there is so much pitch in pine that it contaminates the fireplace and chimney. Here they would charge you less for any tree cutting if they did not have to haul off the wood.

George


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

^^^That's the beauty of Federalism and regional variations, isn't it?


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

scribbles said:


> Put the double door on the end of the building, and put a man door on the face, Then put your table saw up against the double doors and you will not need to move it, just open the doors and fold up a out feed table and you are good to go. With a 12' deep shop you should be able to work 10' material that way. For small hobby work I think 12x10 will work. It will be about the bare minimum, and you will really need to keep it clean and organized but it should work. Also make sure you have 8'clear so you can stand up plywood. But the doors on the front like lowes has will never work, and for reference, I have a 8X10 shed in my backyard I built in a weekend for my wife's crap, looks very similar to the lowes shed, but properly framed with 2x4 on 16"centers and a 40 year roof, and I only spent $850 in materials. I am betting you could build a 14X10 which would be a much better size for around 2k insulated and sheet rocked.


These are all good ideas / suggestions. Now that I've decided to do this myself, I have lots of options. I'll still probably have some double doors along the front because in the summer I want to be able to keep the shed's doors open so I can see back towards the house & patio and to let in more light. But maybe putting in rollup door or a second set of doors on the side would work well. Not sure if a rollup door would be insulated well enough for me. I'm definitely planning to insulate and drywall the shed so I can stay warm & dry in the winter.

Another option might be a pair of oversized windows with shutters. This would let me work with longer pieces of 2x4, although it probably wouldn't work as well for larger pieces of plywood.


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## windstorm (Dec 21, 2008)

Armchair, I faced the same issue with running out of room in my 10'x20' garage & last fall I built a 12'x8' shed in my back yard in a small space similar to yours. After looking at all the pre-built units at the big box stores, which are pretty flimsy & built mostly from 1"x3"s & particle board, I decided to build my own shed. It has a concrete slab floor & cost & bit more than the pre-fabs that are out there, but it is a solid stick construction with 2"x6" joists, etc. (If you get a foot of snow on the roof, most pre-fab sheds will eventually sag.) I insulated the interior with R-30 & lined it with lapped cedar & also ran 120V electricity from the house. To cut down on the humidity, be sure the building has cross-ventilation. The most expensive part of the project were the doors & windows. My construction skills are average & it took me a couple of months of weekends to do the job. I hope this reference is of help to you. P.S. Here are a couple of books that I found helpful... Barns, Sheds and Outbuildings by John D. Wagner & Clayton DeKorne, and Building a Shed by Joseph Truini. I got the idea for my shed from page 25 of the Wagner & DeKorne book. Also, since the shed is so small, right now I store lumber in it & don't use it for woodworking. I will likely turn it into an office in the spring. Good luck.


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## Armchair Bronco (Mar 24, 2009)

windstorm said:


> Armchair, I faced the same issue with running out of room in my 10'x20' garage & last fall I built a 12'x8' shed in my back yard in a small space similar to yours. After looking at all the pre-built units at the big box stores, which are pretty flimsy & built mostly from 1"x3"s & particle board, I decided to build my own shed. It has a concrete slab floor & cost & bit more than the pre-fabs that are out there, but it is a solid stick construction with 2"x6" joists, etc. (If you get a foot of snow on the roof, most pre-fab sheds will eventually sag.) I insulated the interior with R-30 & lined it with lapped cedar & also ran 120V electricity from the house. To cut down on the humidity, be sure the building has cross-ventilation. The most expensive part of the project were the doors & windows. My construction skills are average & it took me a couple of months of weekends to do the job. I hope this reference is of help to you. P.S. Here are a couple of books that I found helpful... Barns, Sheds and Outbuildings by John D. Wagner & Clayton DeKorne, and Building a Shed by Joseph Truini. I got the idea for my shed from page 25 of the Wagner & DeKorne book. Also, since the shed is so small, right now I store lumber in it & don't use it for woodworking. I will likely turn it into an office in the spring. Good luck.


Great looking shed, Windstorm. And not too shabby for someone with merely "average" building skills. :thumbsup:

I'll definitely keep my eyes open for the books you recommended. I've already started downloading PDF plans from the internet, and I enjoy reading through DIY shed building articles at night before I go to bed. I've got a lot of ideas floating around in my head...now I just need to zero in a game plan and put things in motion.


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