# how to eliminate tear out if oak plywood when drilling



## gatorfreak (Dec 15, 2009)

I'm building build ins and using oak plywood and JIG IT® Shelving Jig from Rockler to make adjustable shelves but noticed it is really tearing out the layer of oak when using this jig. How do I stop this from happening?


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## gregL (Feb 1, 2009)

Are you using good quality brad point bits? I use brad point bits and they have drilled clean splinter free holes for the shelf pins. You could also put a thin strip if wood on top of the piece to be drilled as a backer strip to prevent tearout


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Gator,
I have the same jig and I have noticed the tearout sometimes. Doesn't seem to do it on most of the holes. I didn't try it but maybe a piece of blue masking tape applied to the wood would help. 

Mike Hawkins


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## gatorfreak (Dec 15, 2009)

I tried the blue tape on a scrap piece to see what happen & it didn't seem to help. Would it help if I completely stained and polyed before putting the holes in. Thanks for all the info so far.


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## dogshooter (Feb 20, 2009)

Speed up the drill press, and go slow. Good sharp bit is a must.


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

With this jig I have found that sometimes the self centering bit will not fully retract due to being clogged with chips. If this happens the bit contacts the wood before the nose can support the face which can cause tear out (especially if your drill speed is too slow and/or your feed rate is too fast). For extra insurance when drilling in plywoods such as oak/ash etc I will first run the drill in reverse long enough to "score" the veneer (mine has a brad point bit) and then drill as normal . Takes a bit longer and may dull the bit quicker but it leaves clean holes. :smile:


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

I generally use a Forstner bit when drilling plywood. However, you can still get tearout on the bottom/back side. If you back your plywood up with another board it helps reduce the tearout.

Gerry


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

+1 on the Forstners.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Could it possibly be the quality of the plywood itself?


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Right on Gerry...I always use a Forestner bit with a backer...and only allow the point to go through on the back side...then flip it over and drill the other side. Most of my pression drilling is done on the drill press. Rick


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

Based on my understanding of the first post he is using _a shelf pin hole drilling jig with_ _a specific drilling apparatus_. There is a brad point bit inside a housing with a spring loaded nose piece that centers inside the jig hole to allow drilling of evenly spaced/centered *non-through* shelf pin holes. In this situation I'm not sure how a forstner bit with a backing board will stop tear out *on the face* of his workpiece. :confused1:



gatorfreak2005 said:


> I'm building build ins and using oak plywood and JIG IT® Shelving Jig from Rockler to make adjustable shelves but noticed it is really tearing out the layer of oak when using this jig. How do I stop this from happening?





Gerry KIERNAN said:


> I generally use a Forstner bit when drilling plywood. However, you can still get tearout on the bottom/back side. If you back your plywood up with another board it helps reduce the tearout.
> 
> Gerry





Gene Howe said:


> +1 on the Forstners.





pianoman said:


> Right on Gerry...I always use a Forestner bit with a backer...and only allow the point to go through on the back side...then flip it over and drill the other side. Most of my pression drilling is done on the drill press. Rick


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Marv said:


> Based on my understanding of the first post he is using _a shelf pin hole drilling jig with_ _a specific drilling apparatus_. ....... In this situation I'm not sure how a forstner bit with a backing board will stop tear out *on the face* of his workpiece. :confused1:


Marv, I was reading this thread and wondered when someone was going to bring this up. :laughing:


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## BIP (Dec 21, 2009)

I had the Rockler jig and had the same issue after repeated use. The acrylic/plastic wears allowing the bit to move arround.

I have since upgraded to another jig that has metal grommets in a plastic frame instead of just plastic. It seems to do a much better job and the holes are much cleaner. Part of it is do to a sharp bit, however I think alot of it is due to the metal keep the fibers compressed closer to the bit and doesn't wear.

I can't remember tha manufacturer, but I will peek in my toolbox when I get home and let you know the brand.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Tony B said:


> Marv, I was reading this thread and wondered when someone was going to bring this up. :laughing:


OOPS!:laughing:

Gerry


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> OOPS!:laughing:
> 
> Gerry


No matter. The forstner is still a good choice:thumbsup:
I just use jig made from a piece of peg board. Cheeeep and expendable:laughing:


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

I use a home made spacing jig with my plunge router, a collar and a 1/4" downcut spiral bit to make shelf pin holes. Never had chip out.


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## gatorfreak (Dec 15, 2009)

thanks for all the insight. I used blue painters tape and an electric drill instead of my cordless drill and let the bit work its self into material and I had hardly any tear outs of holes. Also cleaned bit out on each hole. Very pleased with the turn out.

thanks again:thumbsup:


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## Jim Tank (Apr 28, 2009)

Try a left hand downcut bit from AMANA. Better to use a jig to punch center points with an awl, then drill on press than a drilling jig.


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## Ed'sGarage (Aug 16, 2007)

*Tear out?*

I'm with JohnV. I did exactly the same thing on my last project with adjustables. Home made jig, 1/4 inch in my plunge router. I don't remember any problems with tear out.


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## Larry Norton (Sep 30, 2008)

I used the Rockler jig for a while, and then did exactly what John V and Ed did. I drilled some 5/8" holes in a piece of ply and used a collar on my router with a 1/4" spiral bit.

If you use this method, I would paint the bottom end black abour 2" up, that way you always know which end to use, and you don't flip it over and get the holes misalligned.


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