# How are the Harbor Freight lathes?



## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

Hello all,

May's military check is going to get me a lathe. From knife making I know that the tools at Harbor Freight can be hit or miss. The metal cutting band saw is very mice as is the 12" disc sander but the mills, don't even think about it. 

Does anyone have experience with them? 

I am looking to do small turning projects, mostly pens and other projects like the seam rippers and pepper mills.

Thanks,
Jim


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## robhodge1 (Feb 14, 2011)

I have the 12" x 33-3/8" Lathe (item #34706) and it's been a good starter lathe. I haven't had any issues with it as of yet. If your turning some large out of round pieces it's a good idea to add some weight to the base to keep the vibration down. My few complaints are that there's only a 12" swing and that there's no hand wheel. I haven't attempted to rotate the headstock and turn larger pieces. 

For the price, I would recommend it to someone just starting out.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

They used to be junk, but I saw their newest models recently and they are OK considering that they cost far less than Jet and Delta. HF lathes are not in the same class as those lathes, but still they are usable. Unlike the more expensive lathes, you won't be able to get parts after the warranty expires and it won't have any meaningful resale value (garage sale pocket money) when you are ready to move up to a better lathe some day.


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## rechilcot (Nov 29, 2012)

I started with this one http://www.harborfreight.com/garage...ch-wood-lathe-with-reversible-head-34706.html, a few years ago. It was a fine starter lathe and I produced a great number of bowls and pens on it. I eventually upgraded to a variable speed 16x42 Jet.


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## Dale W. (Feb 22, 2012)

I am going to respectfully disagree with Mr. Bill if you compare apples to apples. If you compare pics of the Jet JWL 1236 and the HF 12x33 about the only difference you will see is the location of the on/off switch. Compare specifications between the two and they are identical. Look at the owner's manual. One is a photo copy of the other. If you need parts for the HF then order from Jet. I recently replaced a set of motor pulleys and key on my HF with parts from Jet. 

No there will not be much resale value but you will have less than 1/3 invested.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

I used model 34706 for a couple of years. Completely satisfied with how it performed, except for the low speed being a bit too high for my liking when starting a large/heavy/out-of-balance blank.

However: the first one I had developed a problem, I think something in the headstock swivel/clamp mechanism broke. I took advantage of the "extended full replacement warranty" -- glad I bought it when I got the lathe, definitely worth the extra $25 or whatever it was.

The smaller (benchtop) lathe that gets good reviews is the model 65345. To all intents and purposes, it's the exact same iron as a lathe sold by Rockler, PennState, and some other "store brands". It has a 10" swing, 18" between centers, so it is plenty big enough for the projects you named.


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## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

Thanks guys,

I normally make tool benches out of Home Depot cabinets with MDF mounted on top and (depending on the weight of the machine) braced with 2 x 4 under the MDF. Seems to work well for my buffers, belt sander and disc sander. Would screwing the lathe down to such a setup help with the vibration issue mentioned?

Jim


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Drac said:


> Thanks guys,
> Would screwing the lathe down to such a setup help with the vibration issue mentioned?


IMO ... no. What I experienced isn't vibration, it's the whole shebang jumping around like it's on a pogo stick. Unless your cabinet was filled with sand/cement and had *really* strong screws holding it together, it wouldn't do it.

But to be clear: this was an 11" diameter by 10" tall chunk off a freshly felled tree. It was heavy and it was out of balance, and the slowest speed is 750rpm.

Take a look at both the lathes linked to. The big one has its own stand, the smaller one could well benefit from one of your cabinet/stands.


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## ghost5 (Aug 19, 2012)

I have been turning on my HF 10x18 for several years. It gets run more than any small lathe should and I have had very few issues and they were minor considering the run time. I would buy another one or their larger size without hesitation.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Dale W. said:


> I am going to respectfully disagree with Mr. Bill if you compare apples to apples. If you compare pics of the Jet JWL 1236 and the HF 12x33 about the only difference you will see is the location of the on/off switch. Compare specifications between the two and they are identical. Look at the owner's manual. One is a photo copy of the other. If you need parts for the HF then order from Jet. I recently replaced a set of motor pulleys and key on my HF with parts from Jet.
> 
> No there will not be much resale value but you will have less than 1/3 invested.


You have a couple very good points. I also have ordered parts from Jet for brand X machines. And it has been around ten years since I turned on a Jet 1236 and I had forgotten the similarity (a little better fit and finish on the Jet cast iron). Maybe this is why the current HF lathe looks so much better than previous versions. HF stuff has been getting better in recent years. A new HF opened up close to me a couple years ago and I have bought quite a few things there. Their roll around tool chests are as good or better than any of the other consumer grade chests that I have looked at so I have bought two of them in the past few months. Their air tools and hydraulics are also very good.


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## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

Thanks. This will be my first investment in wood shop tools. A lot of the others I have are wood working tools but were bought for other reasons. This is a first step into setting up a shop.

From my reading after the lathe I will need the cutting tools (the books list 3 I just can't remember their names), a mandrel, barrel trimmer and bushing as far as hardware go. With some optional tools of the tube inserter, drilling jig and pen press. On the consumables side I will need wood, turning kits (pen and seam rippers are the first on the list), and sanding supplies (have tons from my other hobby). 

On finishing since I have quite a bit of stabilized woods around my shop I was hoping to use them at the start. Rather easy to finish as I already have the buffers and compounds. I know stabilized materials are used in turning but will the added hardness be an issue? Would it be better if I start with a natural wood?

Thanks,
Jim


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Stabilized wood hardness is not an issue, it just means the tools will dull faster. This is the same as turning a very dense piece of wood.

Your list of things to get did not include a faceshield or the equipment to sharpen the tools unless you are intending on buying carbide insert tools.

FYI the tools get dull faster than you will expect. You will need to refresh the edge a few times during a turning session, or at least between turning sessions. This can be hand honing. Then eventually re-grinding the face. Does not take long, just getting a new edge, so do not take off much metal.

If you go with the carbide insert tools, these do last longer than HSS, but also do not last as long as you may expect. Carbide also is brittle, so can chip. I have a couple of carbide insert tools. The one I use the most has chipped the edge more often than I expected. Rotate the insert in this case to get a fresh edge.


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## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

I forgot to mention it but I do have eye protection, filter masks and hearing protection from my other hobby. Safety first and always 

Thanks, I hadn't thought of the sharpening aspect. I will probably go towards the carbide inserts as quite frankly I am not the best at sharpening things. I use a sharpening system in the kitchen for my knives there and put a good usable edge on the ones I make but they are very far from scary sharp that most people put. I doubt I would be any better at tool sharpening.

Jim


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Drac said:


> I forgot to mention it but I do have eye protection, filter masks and hearing protection from my other hobby. Safety first and always


A faceshield is more than just eye protection ... I use THIS ONE (in addition to safety glasses).

Even small pieces of wood can fly off the lathe unexpectedly. One of the members at the club I go to had to pay his dentist nearly $1,000 to repair the couple of teeth that got broken when a candle-stick he was turning met his mouth.


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## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

duncsuss said:


> One of the members at the club I go to had to pay his dentist nearly $1,000 to repair the couple of teeth that got broken when a candle-stick he was turning met his mouth.


Eek!

Noted. Will invest.

Jim


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Jim, since you will be doing pens, the five-speed mini lathe would be far better than any of the other HF lathes for that. The reason is that the small lathe has a higher top speed which you need for pen turning and the fixed pulleys on the mini lathe are much smoother running than the Reeves pulleys on the 12 X 33 lathe. Don't even think about the 14 X 40 lathe -- it is the poster child for junk tools. Same goes for the 14 X 41. Lining up the headstock and tailstock are critical and the larger lathes are not very accurate in that respect. Your lathe will be just a portion of what you will need to spend. Get a quality mandrel -- the adjustable length type is better than the fixed length type. Don't use the live center that comes with the lathe -- its point won't work well with the dimple in the mandrel. Instead get a 60° cone tip live center for a metal turning lathe or a hollow tip live center designed specifically for pen mandrels. The carbide tipped tools are OK fpor a beginner because they are scraping tools and easy to use, but they can also cause grain tear out especially on figured wood and burls. They also are much more expensive than regular steel turning tools.


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## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

Something like - http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TCLC10VS-B.html

Jim


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Drac said:


> Something like - http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TCLC10VS-B.html
> 
> Jim


That is a very nice starter kit for a pen turner and a great sale price. The lathe has variable speed drive and #2 Morse tapers on both ends -- both of those things make it nicer than the HF mini. The pen kits, Shellawax, epoxy, and blanks don't really add any real value to the package, but most of the other stuff does.

Personally, if I were thinking about turning more than just pens, I would lean towards the *fixed speed version* that has five speeds from 650 to 3000 and a 3/5 HP induction motor. That will enable you to turn some larger things and have much more torque available at the low speeds. Here is basically the same starter kit for about $32 less than the variable speed version. To me, the variable speed version has more disadvantages than advantages for what I would want to turn. For pens and other tiny things, the variable speed would be slightly more convenient.


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## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

Thanks. I was looking at the kit from a "grab and go" perspective. The price of the lathe seemed good (seems to be about $60 dollars for the supplies above the lathe price) and I get 10 pins to destroy while figuring out how to use the tools :icon_redface:

I have little doubt the first couple will be epic fail if I'm lucky. I'm more worried about making sure I don't get hurt figuring it out. Hence the reading, reading, reading and more reading.

I have been debating on taking a turning class locally but they are all rather expensive and while the fun money from the reserve weekend is a nice chunk for getting a tool it is finite :smile:

Jim


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Drac said:


> I have been debating on taking a turning class locally but they are all rather expensive and while the fun money from the reserve weekend is a nice chunk for getting a tool it is finite :smile:


About $80?

Do it. There's no better way to learn if you've never done it before. Everything from tool post height and location, your stance, how to actually do all the prep work, and (at last) how to turn the parts. Then apply a finish and assemble the pen.

It's all easier when there's somebody helping you do it right. And you don't get into bad habits which are hellacious difficult to break later.

:thumbsup:


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## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

Classes are about that. I had really considered it as I know that shop time can accelerate your learning curve a huge amount but it is one of those either or issues. Either take the class and wait another month plus before getting the equipment (and hope I remember what I learned), get the machine and practice until the following month for a class or wait several months until I have enough for both. 

It is always a hard choice. I will admit I am not a patient man :laughing:

Jim


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Drac said:


> Thanks. I was looking at the kit from a "grab and go" perspective. The price of the lathe seemed good (seems to be about $60 dollars for the supplies above the lathe price) and I get 10 pins to destroy while figuring out how to use the tools :icon_redface:
> 
> I have little doubt the first couple will be epic fail if I'm lucky. I'm more worried about making sure I don't get hurt figuring it out. Hence the reading, reading, reading and more reading.
> 
> ...


Well, since you are in the DFW area, there are several opportunities depending on which part. There are a couple Woodcraft stores and a couple Rockler's plus Wood World if you are near TI in far NE Dallas. Besides that, there are several woodturning clubs. I belong to the Woodturners of North Texas and we meet at the Handley-Meadowbrook Lions Club in east Fort Worth almost in Arlington. The Dallas woodturning club meets in far west Dallas. The Golden Triangle Woodturners meets in Denton and the Hunt County Woodturners are east of the metroplex. The cost of learning pen turning from a mentor in any of the clubs would be free (most of us can afford free), but you probably would be expected to join for a nominal cost. Our club charges $24 per year which is a super good bargain and besides we get discounts at Rockler's and Woodcraft. At our club, if a new members says, "I want to learn how to turn _______ (fill in blank), mentors will be on him like a duck on a june bug. I am sure that the other local clubs are the same in that regard.


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## Drac (Mar 26, 2014)

That's something I didn't think of. I live in Richardson so the Dallas Club should be fairly close. This them? 

http://www.dallaswoodturners.com/

I was looking at going to Wood World as I need some resawing services. Unfortunately a resawing band saw is pretty far down the list and the table top one had a hard time cutting straight lines before the guide broke off.

Jim


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

That would be them. It's dangerous to go to a woodturning club meeting in a store that sells woodturning stuff. :laughing: Better arm yourself with extra cash.

BTW, we are a long way from Wood World here -- at least an hour drive, but we can call them and place an order and one of their people will deliver it to our next club meeting -- can't beat a deal like that.


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