# ceiling idea?



## smontanye (Jul 26, 2007)

im remodeling my house and thought i might have an idea for the living room ceiling. The walls will have 32" pine wainscot with natural stain so i thought 2'x2' pine panels trimed with 1.5"x.25" flat stock would look nice. Think of a suspended ceiling look but with wood. Any one seen this done before? pics would be great.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

No I haven't seen it but we are doing ceilings too and looking for ideas. In two of the bedrooms we're doing wood off the sawmill so that's decided. But in the living, kitchen, and dining we're wanting something ecclectic but not "too wierd" although niether of us are afraid of it. 

There won't be one single piece of shatrock in the abode. We have installed OSB for interior sheathing for a solid nail base. Walls and cielings. So our options are unlimited. 

We have had so many ideas it's been hard to pare them down. We even looked at cork for cielings, with all it's many differnet looks and material dimensions/sizes etc., and like it for some of the rooms but, the only one we liked was $4 sq foot, and doing this out of pocket we decided it didn't look that good. 

We have all our wall choices. But half of the ceilings are, well, still up in the air. 

Post a picture if you have anything close to what you are describing. I am not hijacking your thread. I am coming along for the ride.


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## TheStairguy (Mar 25, 2008)

I have done coffered ceilings in the past. Basically you manufacture all your panels ahead of time. What we did is made boxes. They can be rectangle or square, it doesn't matter. What we did was take 3/4" plywood, in this case quarter sawn white Oak, and cut them to the sizes we needed. In your case it would be 2' x 2'. We took solid 3/4 inch white Oak stock that was approximately 4 inches tall and screwed them to the white Oak plywood panel from behind to create a box. We then took 2 3/4" crown mold and trimmed out the inside of the box. In order to affix the box to the ceiling we screwed and pre-drilled mounting blocks to the outside of the box. For our purposes, we wanted the coffered boxes to look like we trimmed them in between beams. We made the space between the boxes 6 1/4" and then placed six-inch wide by 3/4" thick flat stock to span between the coffered boxes to create the illusion of a beam. We nailed through the face into the top of the box sides. What we ended up with was the look of a 6 inch beam with 1/8 inch reveals on the coffered box sides. Now for your purposes, you may not want to go that detailed. However you may want to try a smaller scaled down version of this by just taking some for plywood and nailing some 1" to 1 1/2" tall, 3/4" thick solid material all the way around your 2' x 2' piece of plywood to create your box. Then just simply trim the inside with a nice piece of molding. What you can do to make the installation easier is precut the moldings for your panel but don't put them in yet. Mark them and leave them out for now. Screw the box to the ceiling, staying as close to the side of the box as possible. Once that is done, just take your precut moldings and nail'er home. You may not want to be as far apart with your boxes as I was and you may not want to use as thick of material to span between the boxes. Half inch thick flat stock would do and maybe only span about 3 inches. This system is easy to do, quick, classy and relatively inexpensive. Hope this helps, ROLe.:thumbsup:


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Man I have read it 3 times and cannot picture it. I wish you had a picture. I have a head for numbers and can remember them for decades but I can't visualize stuff from words.


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## lucas.j.dunton (Feb 27, 2008)

mmmm i have the same exact problem as TT............


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## huntsman22 (Feb 2, 2008)

What is this 1/4 inch thick grid idea? Why not do a REAL ceiling?<grin>
10x10 fir beams with 6x6's inletted on 28" centers. You can put shatrock or t & g or even ply in betwixt.......


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

think siding board and batten, that is what i believe smontayne is saying for the ceiling look

Texas; picture a ceiling with exposed beams, then build boxes between them and shorter than the depth of the beams; at least that is the way I picture it


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Stairguy

I've done them like you described, and also with just 3/4" plywood. I made the boxes the height of the crown 1/4" less than the crown mounted height. Then mount the crown, and it stands proud of the sides of the box by 1/4". Then when they are all installed, lay in between the boxes on the top edge of the ply, 1/4" ply, and it flushes to the edge of the crown. I've done this with hardwood ply & crown, and paint grade stuff. Much less of a cost than solid wood.


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## smontanye (Jul 26, 2007)

huntsman has the idea of what im thinking. The room only has 94" ceiling height so i think using thick beams would overwelm the room. All i really want your typical 2x2 grid acoustic panel ceiling but using plywood for the panels and say 1 1/4x1/4 flat stock as the "track". I could even just put up full sheets of ply and then trim it to look like their smaller panels.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

This is another way I've done a wood dropped ceiling. The wall angles/cross, and main tees are 3/4" x 1 1/2". The main and cross tees are grooved 1/4" deep to accept 1/4" plywood, glued in. As in the pictures below, the 1/4" plywood is notched at the ends to lay on top of either the wall angle (for main tees) or on top of the main tees (for cross tees). Hanging holes are drilled in the 1/4" for suspension wires. The wall angle has a built in vertical cleat to screw it to the wall, and that height can be just about anything...1" to 2". Laying in 1/4" plywood panels is easy, They just lay on top and but against the 1/4" ply. 

I've done these with all hardwood plywood. You can use iron on edge banding, and it will appear to be solid wood. The plywood panels could be exchanged for plastic translucent light panels.












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## TheStairguy (Mar 25, 2008)

*Wood ceiling*

I suppose you could just use sheets of plywood and then trim them out with small pieces of wood. However, everything would look too perfect to a point, and it would look like..........well, you just put up some sheets of plywood and trimmed them out with small pieces of wood. If you cut up the plywood and mixed them up in 2' x 2' sections the grains wouldn't look so uniform. The colors would be slightly different, and it would give the ceiling some life. I am not trying to be judgmental and I know everything comes down to cost and time. I just think if you are going to go through the paces to put up a wood ceiling it might behoove you to take a few more hours and do it this way. I am going out to a job site today where I did a coffered ceiling and I'll take some pic's. Good luck and thank you very much for giving me the opportunity to weigh in. ROLe.:thumbsup:


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## smontanye (Jul 26, 2007)

i think im gonna go with the 2x2 panels. From what im understanding by coffered is that its pretty much idea but theres mre depth to it? that might look good in the room if i do it on smaller scale, mabe instead of crown use 3/4 cove. Pics would be awesome. And i see your in mn, where about? Im in faribault/hollandale depending on the day. 

cabinetman, from your drawings i take it that you just made the track out of wood instead of the normal metal?


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## TheStairguy (Mar 25, 2008)

*Ceiling*

Here is what I was on about. What you may want to try to break up the room a bit is to use rectangular panels around the perimeter of the room with squares at the corners. then fill in the center. Just a thought.:huh:

herreid 011a.jpg
herreid 004a.jpg


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

smontanye said:


> cabinetman, from your drawings i take it that you just made the track out of wood instead of the normal metal?



Yesiree. You can lay it out for any size panel, and suspend it where you desire.


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## TheStairguy (Mar 25, 2008)

*cieling*

Oops I fergitted to put this in. I'm in Carver. Howdy neighbor.


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## TheStairguy (Mar 25, 2008)

*Ceiling*

Oops agin dangit! Click on the jpg's to see my pic's, ROLe.


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## aclose (Nov 11, 2007)

TheStairguy said:


> Here is what I was on about. What you may want to try to break up the room a bit is to use rectangular panels around the perimeter of the room with squares at the corners. then fill in the center. Just a thought.:huh:
> 
> herreid 011a.jpg
> herreid 004a.jpg


i'm not getting anything with the link you posted...  :sad:


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## TheStairguy (Mar 25, 2008)

*Pictures*

I'm obviously not doing something right. They open just fine on my "Putor" but when I try it on my other one it doesn't. Hmmmmm. I'm what is known as Putor chalenged. I will work on it a try to get'er fix'ed. ROLe.:wallbash:


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## Cdat (Jun 27, 2007)

Go for the coffered look:


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## smontanye (Jul 26, 2007)

i think i will go for a coffered look but on a smaller scale, with 8ft ceilings i think if they get too deep it look odd. Was thinking maybe just go 1.5-2" depth would be good. And id be doing this right now but ive been getting lucky and getting cabinet jobs for other people so mine can wait.


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## Cdat (Jun 27, 2007)

You should do a little of yours every day and by the time your cabinets are done, so too will be your ceiling.:thumbsup:


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## TheStairguy (Mar 25, 2008)

Like usual you have to look after someone else's stuff before you can do yours. Ain't it always the way? However like the old saying goes "When the sun shines, ya gotta make hay". Good luck and thanks for letting me weigh in. When you "get'er done" post your pictures so the rest of us can have a gander. Oh, by the way, I finally fingered out how to post the pictures I wanted to show you guys. I can figure out how ta build a curved stair but not how to push the right friggin button on the Putor.:wallbash: ROLe.


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## smontanye (Jul 26, 2007)

i wish i could work on my stuff at the same time, but with limited space and time it doesnt work out. Trying to build about 24' worth of cabinets in a small one car garage isnt the easiest chore, ive pretty much turned my whole first floor of my house into a wood shop.


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## smontanye (Jul 26, 2007)

Stairguy, that stair case looks awesome. Im thinking ill have some material left over from this job to get started. Another thing where do you usually get your wood from?


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## TheStairguy (Mar 25, 2008)

Yeah, I can see where space could be a problem. I run into that all the time. My wife would be a little pissed though is I started choppin and glueing in the living room. My advice to you is don't put your miter box too close to the kitchen sink cause the blade'll get rusty. Heh, heh, heh. The guy I use for lumber right now is a gentleman out of Waconia. His prices are very reasonable and he will deal in small quantities (25-50 BF lots to where ever). He is the perfect wholesale supplier for the small shop. Strictly cash and carry. You pick up the stuff at his warehouse. If you like go to www thestairguy com email me from there and I will give you the phone number and address. Have a great day. ROLe.:smile:


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

I think I'm give the coffered ceiling a try in my kitchen when I redo it.
Thanks for the tips :thumbsup:
Rick


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

One thing you might want to consider, when redoing your ceiling is fire resistance. Drywall has natural fire resistance. Before you start putting wood ceilings up check your local building codes. It might be in violation due to low fire resitance. I believe some jurisdictions specify gyproc for this reason. Just a thought. 

Gerry


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## Clive Driscoll (Mar 19, 2009)

Gerry, I am interested in more information (if you have any) on that issue? I recently put up pine ceilings in several rooms in my residence and never once thought about how it could be against any bldg codes etc....


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Clive Driscoll said:


> Gerry, I am interested in more information (if you have any) on that issue? I recently put up pine ceilings in several rooms in my residence and never once thought about how it could be against any bldg codes etc....


 I wish I had information on this Clive, but I don't. I haven't checked my area codes, as this house was long built when we bought it. There is cedar panelling on almost all the ceilings. It looks great, and I wouldn't change it, I was just wanting to let people know that they might want to look at their local codes. Some areas might require drywall between the wood panelling and the structure to act as a fire break. 

Gerry


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> One thing you might want to consider, when redoing your ceiling is fire resistance. Drywall has natural fire resistance. Before you start putting wood ceilings up check your local building codes. It might be in violation due to low fire resitance. I believe some jurisdictions specify gyproc for this reason. Just a thought.
> 
> Gerry


 
Good point Gerry!

I was considering using mdf for the coffered look......but now you've got me wondering. I will have to look into that a little further.

Thanks,
Rick


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## Clive Driscoll (Mar 19, 2009)

I spent several hours today on the net looking for information on the subject... found such a wide range of answers... a few that said you only need a layer of drywall barrier on exterior walls and ceilings, another that said just attached garages, some people said you don't need it at all, others said its required... so now I'm even more confused than ever!!!! I will see if I can find anything else


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Clive Driscoll said:


> I spent several hours today on the net looking for information on the subject... found such a wide range of answers... a few that said you only need a layer of drywall barrier on exterior walls and ceilings, another that said just attached garages, some people said you don't need it at all, others said its required... so now I'm even more confused than ever!!!! I will see if I can find anything else


 Sorry if I got you all messed up Clive. In Canada we have a National Building Code, and we also have building codes in various jurisdictions. I am not sure how your federal system works as far as building codes go, but I suspect that it is more up to the individual towns, cities, or counties. Go to your city's building department and ask for a set of local building codes, or ask them a direct question. Don't tell them up front that you have already done it, just say you are thinking of doing it, just in case you don't like the answer. I will also have to add that some areas, up here at least, are classified as unorganised, and the building codes are pretty loose.
I just thought that people should take this into consideration because some areas are very tight on their building codes.

I am fortunate in that I live in an unorganised area, so I can almost do pretty much what I want. I still try to stay to code, for the sake of resale, and safety.

Gerry


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