# What should I use to cut a toekick?



## Vexorg (Apr 16, 2014)

Hello,

I will be building some cabinets soon out of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood and I was wondering what tool I should use to cut the toe kick? It will probably be only about 2.5" deep. (so a 2.5" x 2.5" square).

Heres what I have available

Table saw (blade as high as it will go)
Japanese Pull Saw
Jigsaw (use speedsquare or something as a guide)
Circular Saw

I was thinking about just use a guide with a jigsaw. Any recommendations?

Thanks


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I must be dense. I do not understand your question.

"A toe kick is a recess at the bottom of a base cabinet. It provides a recess for your feet so you can get close to the counter top without losing your balance. If you do not think it is that important try standing with your toes against a wall."

A toe kick is a space.(or an indention under a cabinet) It is not something that is 2 1/2 by 2 1/2. The board that is at the back of the toe kick is probably cut on the table saw like the other boards in a cabinet.

George


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## Vexorg (Apr 16, 2014)

Ah I guess it depends how one constructs the cabinet. Lets say the side is made from one piece (Including the toe kick). See the image below, basically I need to cut out the 90° square that creates the space.


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Do you have a band saw?
Tom


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## Vexorg (Apr 16, 2014)

TomC said:


> Do you have a band saw?
> Tom


Nope


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## Sawdustguy (Dec 30, 2008)

A cabinet side would be to big to handle on a bandsaw in my opinion, I would use a jig saw / sabre saw with a straight edge to guide you straight.


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

George G said:


> A cabinet side would be to big to handle on a bandsaw in my opinion, I would use a jig saw / sabre saw with a straight edge to guide you straight.


Maybe for some people but I found it easy to do. I also use the fence and get a very straight cut and all sides cut identical.
Tom


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

It depends on your skills, I would use a jig saw with a guide, that way I can make both cuts on same side of material. 

With a bandsaw you have to cut one side, flip it over to make second cut, any chipping will be on exposed face for one cut.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

I use a jigsaw or a router with a template. 

Mine are also much larger than 2x2


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Vexorg said:


> Ah I guess it depends how one constructs the cabinet. Lets say the side is made from one piece (Including the toe kick). See the image below, basically I need to cut out the 90° square that creates the space.


Do you think the original poster is writing about cutting out that little rectangular corner?

I would start it on my table saw and finish with a hand saw. Or just do it with my Japanese style saw completely.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The ways mention above ...*

There are several good methods, but I like the jig saw, OR a bandsaw with stops on the fence. Any round blade saw, table or hand held circular will leave a portion of the material which must be cut by hand. A vertical blade tool like a bandsaw or jig saw will complete the cut with no hand work.

A snall amount of splintering will not be seen under the cabinet.

The real issue I see is the dimensions are not adequate for a toe kick. Here's a better size:

http://ergonomics.about.com/od/kitchen/f/toe_kick_dim.htm


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Why build them that way? I build boxes and toe kick separate. Set the kick and then set the cabinets on it. Lot easier to level it first then set the cabinets. I like the way the end panels look too.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ya sure....*



Al B Thayer said:


> Why build them that way? I build boxes and toe kick separate. Set the kick and then set the cabinets on it. Lot easier to level it first then set the cabinets. I like the way the end panels look too.


You come up with a completely different method of construction, rather than answer the question...  

However your method is the "professional" way to do it and requires much less work leveling them all out, since they sit on a common base which has already been leveled beforehand. :thumbsup:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> You come up with a completely different method of construction, rather than answer the question...
> 
> However your method is the "professional" way to do it and requires much less work leveling them all out, since they sit on a common base which has already been leveled beforehand. :thumbsup:


I posted that method because it sounds like the OP hasn't started yet. My guess is also if he has to ask about the cut, maybe we just save him the grief of cutting the blanking things. 

Al


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

When I have needed to cut the toe kick like the OP asked about, I used a jig saw with a guide. But I tape off the cut with painters tape and use a fine tooth metal cutting blade to make a smooth cut.

More like 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches. I don't think there is an industry standard.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> You come up with a completely different method of construction, rather than answer the question...
> 
> However your method is the "professional" way to do it and requires much less work leveling them all out, since they sit on a common base which has already been leveled beforehand. :thumbsup:


Nah, he answered the question, just in an unconventional and brilliant way


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

whats the max depth on the table saw?

how about a jig to stand the wood vertical (could clamp it to the rear fence of a sled or a miter fence). Then raise the blade into the material to the desired depth of cut. I think 2.5" should be doable. 3.5" may or may not depending on the saw, 10" blade has the theoretical ability to cut 3.5" deep.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I always use my old Porter Cable jigsaw with a fine tooth PC blade and cut it freehand. If you want, you could use blue painters tape to cut through, but I find with the proper blade, I don't get tearout. For such a small cut, you don't need all kinds of squares and jigs, cut right up to the pencil line and use your eyes. Take your time and don't force the cut. When you're done, take a ridged sanding block (piece of wood with adhesive sandpaper) and get rid of any blade marks. Key to the whole thing is training your eyes to follow a line and to have a good jigsaw that has guides on it to control blade wiggle.
Mike Hawkins:shifty:


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

On the jobs that I work on, the cabinet companies use a table saw for the ripping and a cop saw that it.

Eric


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## unclefester (Aug 23, 2013)

Al B Thayer said:


> Why build them that way? I build boxes and toe kick separate. Set the kick and then set the cabinets on it. Lot easier to level it first then set the cabinets. I like the way the end panels look too.


I'll throw in another technique I'm see from cabinet shops. It's a blend of both.

In commercial work the "standards" are 2 1/2", 3" or 4" depending on the height of the vinyl/wood base being used. The idea is to have all the base heights the same height.

I'm seeing more cabinet shops building the cabinets with a rough toe kick already cut in. The cabinet carcass has leveling glides to bring the box up level and a separate toe kick board is scribed to the floor or left up 1/2" to apply vinyl base over.

This allows for the shops to use cheaper labor costs to build the cabinets. The union finish carpenters are a higher rate than inside guys. Also they don't have the luxury of time because they are the last trades on the job site and the date of substantial completion does not change.


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## Vexorg (Apr 16, 2014)

Guys, thanks for all of the responses! Seems like the best tool is the jigsaw.

Now I have to decide if i want to build the base separately like a couple of people have suggested.

Part of my consideration is that this will be going in a room where the floor with eventually be re-done (so I didnt really want to build the toe kick frame yet).


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*not in my 50 years....*



bauerbach said:


> whats the max depth on the table saw?
> 
> how about a jig to stand the wood vertical (could clamp it to the rear fence of a sled or a miter fence). Then raise the blade into the material to the desired depth of cut. I think 2.5" should be doable. 3.5" may or may not depending on the saw, 10" blade has the theoretical ability to cut 3.5" deep.


With 50 years of experience using a table saw....
I would never, NEVER attempt this operation on a table saw and I seriously doubt if you have either. It would be best not to post creative solutions that may be dangerous, or untried at best, since those who may attempt them may have an accident or injury.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

Actually, Id bet you make this cut ALL the time. 

Look at your table saw sled... The front and rear fence have exactly this cut.

All Im doing is clamping another sheet to that one, I cant imagine why 1 sheet is ok but 2 is not.

Ill admit at a certain size I would start to have concerns over the stability. I certainly wouldnt go clamping a full 8' sheet on there, but I think 30"x20" is within a reasonable limit.

and I have done this cut. YMMV, if you feel its unsafe, as always, dont do it.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*tall, narrow piece can be done*

I had to remake a bed rail for and older 1936 bed. The attachment brackets were slotted in to the ends probably with a 6" dia saw blade. I cobbled this setup together from my supply of angles and clamps and it worked OK, but a little scary for even me. The taller the work piece, the more unstable it is and that's why I needed the extra bracing against tipping. Don't do as I do.... do as I say.

Attached Thumbnails


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## Vexorg (Apr 16, 2014)

Cutting a vertical board like that is a little too risky for my taste haha.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> With 50 years of experience using a table saw....
> I would never, NEVER attempt this operation on a table saw and I seriously doubt if you have either. It would be best not to post creative solutions that may be dangerous, or untried at best, since those who may attempt them may have an accident or injury.


I agree. Sometimes it seems like people are just trying to out due the next. It amazes me how threads like this go on and on and the ideas get crazy. 

Now where did I put my laser?

Al


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

I guess what I have seen on job sites is not the correct way!  I do the electrical, not the cabinetry. 
Eric


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I have used the box base method, it's easy to level and then all you need do is scribe the kick plate to the floor. As for the cut method, I agree with the band saw, scroll saw or if you don't have anything else a good hand saw will do. The main thing is to do clean strait cuts. Remember this is finish work quality counts.

Paul


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## unclefester (Aug 23, 2013)

Al B Thayer said:


> I agree. Sometimes it seems like people are just trying to out due the next. It amazes me how threads like this go on and on and the ideas get crazy. Now where did I put my laser? Al


You left it at the tempered glass thread......


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

unclefester said:


> You left it at the tempered glass thread......


Beside the horse club.

Your dang funny!

Al


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## unclefester (Aug 23, 2013)

Al B Thayer said:


> Beside the horse club. Your dang funny! Al


Under the hide glue


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