# Coping base



## Cyclone Hammer (Mar 27, 2010)

Anybody cut their copes on base with a mitersaw? If you dont know what I mean, after cutting the 45 degree turn the saw to a 30 degree turn it over and end turn it then use the saw to do the cutting. one hand on the base, slowly sliding it to match the profile of the base, you may need to plunge the saw a few times to cut off the scrap so it doesnt break the point your tying to save. I can cut copes 20-50% faster and require less filing and doctoring up. Thoughts? Improvements?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

I've done that and it's easy to screw up, or catch the piece. Hand coping for me is pretty quick and accurate.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

I usually use the following methods for coping trim. The accuracy of the copes obviously depends on the finishes to be applied to the trim.

In image A I cut the trim at 45 degrees the as in image B, for the straight portions I flip the trim or lay it flat on the miter saw and back cut where possible. 









Then...using a sabersaw I remove more waste in the curved sections as in image C. I finish the curved profiles with a hand held cordless grinder as in image D









I usually set up a work station equipped with a light and necessary jigs for holding the trim in the desired positions for the processes.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i'll have to try that. presently i do all my coipes on the table saw. blade all the way up, work piece good face up and parallel with blade. then just nibble away - takes a minute, and accurate.


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

Tim

I've done that some also...but it's not hardly worth dragging a table saw to some jobsites for coping base or crown....at least not "my" table saw. I have a small TS I could use I guess. I can't believe some one hasnt developed a very fast tool for this. I might work on it.


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## Cyclone Hammer (Mar 27, 2010)

interesting..... sorry i should have posted this in a more appropriate forum!!


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I cut mine all the way with a jigsaw. Then touch up with a rattail file. I can move pretty quick with the jig saw so the touch up is minimal. 
Mike Hawkins


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

I`m with Mike on this...I use a Bosch jig on slow speed with no cam action after back cutting the straight part. Then touch-up with 80 grit sand paper . Rick


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I back cut mine on a 10 or 15 degree, then use a coping saw. for tricky profiled 7 1/4 base and crown I use a sweet machine called the copemaster. With it I can cope any profile perfectly and very quickly. It aint cheap, but when you make a living at it, it pays for itself in a very short amount of time!


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Since I don't do this professionally, I cut on a miter saw to expose the profile, then back cut with a coping saw. That Copemaster looks pretty cool.


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## Allthumbs27 (Dec 25, 2008)

Just learned how to do coping recently. The initial cut I made with the miter saw and then I made the last cut with a hand coping saw. It was real easy and fast.


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## G Fresh (Mar 22, 2009)

I too cut all my copes with my bosch jig saw and a collins coping foot


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## jeffbayne (Nov 13, 2007)

I use a coping saw to very quickly get sorta close, then I use my dremel tool with a little 1/2" sanding drum to do the finishing up. It's deadly accurate and I use it like a paring knife, like sanding toward my thumb, so I have total control so I don't go too far. Fastest and cleanest system I've used yet.


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

The two best methods I have used are the jig saw w/coping foot and an angle grinder. 

Unless you have dust collection on the grinder, it is messy. Fast, easy, and accurate - but messy. There are several videos on YouTube and other forums that detail the technique. 

All in all, my preferred method is the jig saw.


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