# ripping a "2x4" into a "1x4"



## Mario Piper (Jun 28, 2014)

I was able to procure some nice maple lumber, some of it beautifully figured and curly. The conundrum is that they are essentially 2x4's. I don't want to use them as 2x's, and I'd like to get the most out of them without wasting it by planing most of it. What method would be the best to do this? Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks!


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

That wood is highly toxic. You need to send it to me ASAP for proper disposal ;-)


Bandsaw would be best, you'll waste less with the thinner kerf. If no bandsaw, use a thin kerf blade on your table saw.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

If no band saw, make sure your table saw blade and fence are square, cut through one side of board, flip and cut other side, finish with hand saw.


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## Mario Piper (Jun 28, 2014)

Yeah, that highly toxic nature is what drew me to it.  Thanks for the suggestion. I'll for sure carefully rip it or use a bandsaw. I'll try it on a regular 2x4, then on some non figured maple that has the same dimensions. Thanks for the suggestion!!!


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## Mario Piper (Jun 28, 2014)

Thanks for your suggestion. I will try that if no bandsaw is available. Thanks again.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

My opinion is to find a project where you'll need 8/4 lumber. That stuff is high dollar and it's almost wrong to cut it down in thickness, especially pieces that figured and pretty. Unless, of course, you're using it to make bookmatched jewelry box tops or something like that. If you do that then definitely use a bandsaw with the appropriate blade.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you have difficulty resawing it on a table saw try to get a blade with as few teeth as possible. A fiber cement blade works pretty good.


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## Mario Piper (Jun 28, 2014)

Thanks for that suggestion. I don't have much of it, maybe two 4'x2"x4" boards. I'd like to make a small display case for some fossils I've found and collected over the years. I'm kinda split whether to use this wood, or wait and use some apple wood I had quarter-sawn last month, but for that I'd have to wait for a year and a half or so, as it was milled to 5/4". Decisions, decisions.


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## Mario Piper (Jun 28, 2014)

Thanks for that suggestion. Yeah, I'd try to go as thin as possible, that is, if I do it.


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

If you use a table saw--be careful---maple often binds the blade and kicks back---

Two cuts,half way through would be safest---I've had a few scary kick backs with maple---


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## bzguy (Jul 11, 2011)

This wood appears to be beautifully sanded an clear coated.
I'd use a smooth board under it in the planer to avoid teeth marks in the already nicely finished sides.


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## jacko9 (Dec 29, 2012)

I wouldn't rip those boards until you have the design fully developed since they are so beautiful and rare. The bandsaw is the tool to use, ripping 8/4 maple on the table saw is a challenge even with a good blade.

Jack


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## Mario Piper (Jun 28, 2014)

Well, just to fill you in, got to use an old but good table saw to rip them into four useable boards. It was nerve-racking, but it worked out. Had a riving knife and immediately understood why. Got to create some boxes, I'll post some pics soon of some of them. One I sold, trying to sell more like it. Now I have another question. I'm really thinking of getting a jointer/planer and a thicknesser. I would love to work with figured woods predominately, and want to avoid tear out as much as possible, so would a less expensive straight blade type of jointer/planer be fine, or would I do well to spring for the helical variety? Since my work space is limited and I only have 110v in my apartment, I'll need a portable thickness planer. What are some good ones to consider, considering I want to work with figured wood? 
Thanks for all your help with the previous question.
Mario


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