# craftsman 113.12171



## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

Hey,

Anybody have any experience with this saw?


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Used to have a similar saw. What's the problem?


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

H. A. S. said:


> Used to have a similar saw. What's the problem?


No problem that I know of. Looking to purchase on CL ($75), but was wondering if it would be worth it. I know the CM brand has not held up on it's history of late but this is an older model and wondered if this was one that was something I can depend on for my simple usage. Not building cabinets, but little week-end warrior type projects.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

As long as it has an outboard induction motor and a belt, it should be very similar to most other Emerson era contractor saws. The fences weren't very good, but are fairly reasily upgradable to something like a Delta T2. These saws basically have the same guts as the more recent Ridgid TS3650 saws and their predecessors. If it does have an induction motor, the motor is worth $50-$60, so no real downside if it runs.


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## Woodworkingkid (Jan 8, 2011)

that is a lot like my table saw and i realy like everything on it except the fence is not the best


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

Gonna take a look at it tomorrow. Thanks for the input.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

*New Pics*

Ok, so I went to see the saw. Took some pics. Tell me what you guys think. The top is a good bit rusty, any fixes? also, the belt is looking like it will need to be replaced soon. I turn it on and it ran nicely. A lot quiter than I expect for an older saw. The stand has wheel but can be lowered to sit on stable feet. This is a feature I like due to the need to move around in the garage for usage and storage. 

One thing we, the seller and I, couldn't figure out is how to raise the blade. Additionally, replacing the blade, do you have to take it apart? It was her fathers so she didn't know and I am just not familiar with it so I didn't either. Any suggestions?

Thanks.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

There should be an elevation hand wheel on that stem that's poking out. You can probably find someway to turn that shaft until you hunt down a handwheel, but also note that on these type of saws you'll need to loosen that elevation lock handle that sits in the front just below the table top.











The rust will come off with some elbor grease. Why is there a piece of laminate on the left side of the saw? It looks a little rough, but if it runs well, could be a good saw with some TLC. See if she'll take $50-$60 for it (unless you think she needs the $15 more than you do!)


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

Thanks for that info. That wheel was broken on this one. Not sure about why that lam is on there. she said some folks offered her that price, but she turned it down, maybe because she was betting on me going full price. Now seeing the things that need to be done and the cost to go along with it, I may offer her the 50-60 range. she seems like she could be reasonable if I explain to her why.

You know off-hand where I can find a belt for replacement?

Also, do you know if this allows for dado blade and such? Not sure if I will need them, just want to know the full capabilities of the saw.


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## CuznMike (Nov 24, 2010)

I believe the saw will fit your needs, since I too took a very similar saw and brought it back to life. If the arbor, which holds the blade, extends over and 1 1/4", it will except dado blades. With a little TLC and alot of elbow grease, it could be your favorite tool in the garage. I use 80/150/220 sand paper, sprayed and wiped it down with WD40 between grits. Clean with mineral spirits, then waxed top and fence. I also searched internet for manual using model # (PDF were free). It helps to have for alining blade and fence, part # ( for ordering at craftsmanparts.com) and for getting to know your saw alittle better. Sears still sales the elevation wheel. 
Enjoy and be safe.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

Thanks Cuzn..I really appreciate your info. It helps in making the decision. I tried searching for the manual and the wheel with no luck so far, but I will keep it going.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Any v-belt of the same length width and depth will fit...radiator shops, auto parts, Ebay, etc. Get a high quality rubber cogged belt if you can. 

You might find a handwheel on Ebay, or you can even place a want ad in the free classifieds. 

There were many iterations of this saw that were very similar, so there are many versions of the manual that should offer some help. In addition to the Emerson made Cman contractor saws (113.298###), some of the Ryobi made 315.######, and likely some of the Emerson or Ryobi made Ridgid contractor saws (TS2412, 2424, 3612, 3650, 3660) have very similar guts. You may find that many of the parts you need are interchangeable, but always check first before making an assumption.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Way back in my memory...*



knotscott said:


> Any v-belt of the same length width and depth will fit...radiator shops, auto parts, Ebay, etc. Get a high quality rubber cogged belt if you can. ......


I thought *automotive *v belts and *fractional* FHP v belts had a different angle or pitch? The designation I remember is 3L, 4L, 5Lxx is for the fractional HP up to 1 HP belts. http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.c...Belts-FHP/Fractional-Horsepower-Belts-FHP.asp
 bill


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> I thought *automotive *v belts and *fractional* FHP v belts had a different angle or pitch? The designation I remember is 3L, 4L, 5Lxx is for the fractional HP up to 1 HP belts. http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.c...Belts-FHP/Fractional-Horsepower-Belts-FHP.asp
> bill


You're probably right....it'd be a good idea to take the belt with you and have them match the dimensions. Note that the belts from some of the more recent Ridgid belts are serpentine belts, and won't fit unless you swap out the pulleys. You could always add a link belt to the stock pulleys.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

Hey guys. Thanks for all of this useful info. I plan to contact her tomorrow and make an offer.


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## mina86 (Mar 11, 2011)

I bought a similar saw a few months ago in very rough shape. 

I ordered all parts needed including the belt for very reasonable prices from sears parts direct.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

mina86 said:


> I bought a similar saw a few months ago in very rough shape.
> 
> I ordered all parts needed including the belt for very reasonable prices from sears parts direct.


What parts did you need to get?


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## mina86 (Mar 11, 2011)

I had to replace the belt, both pulleys, and both pulley keys which were missing. 

Mine was very neglected. The previous owner kept it outside, possibly uncovered from what I could see. Top was covered with rust and inside was full of grime and spiders. 

My thread with pictures is posted here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/craftsman-113-299040-table-saw-arbor-key-question-24374/


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## mina86 (Mar 11, 2011)

Additional pics after getting it all cleaned up.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

Thanks mina86. I am not having luck on the parts website for the model I have. The only part that shows os the motor itself. You think some of these parts are interchangeable with your model?


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## mina86 (Mar 11, 2011)

The model number you posted is the model number for the motor. 

The model number for the saw itself should be on the left side of the saw, on a label towards the bottom of the saw cabinet. 


Once you located the model number for the saw itself, you should be able to locate the parts that you need.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

mina86 said:


> The model number you posted is the model number for the motor.
> 
> The model number for the saw itself should be on the left side of the saw, on a label towards the bottom of the saw cabinet.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I have her take a look at that. She gave me the number on the motor thinking it was the saw model number.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

So, got the model number 113.299040. Looked it on on the sears part site and bam, there it is. thanks for the suggestion mina. Gonna price out some parts.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

*Oh Brother..Need Help*

So, I just found the exact same model, in better condition, for $50. Problem is, after looking at it, the fact that the motor sticks out the back, it causes the saw the stick out into my parking area in my garage. It's a tight space already and my girl is not liking the idea of me taking up more space with a saw. 

My thought is if there is a way to make the extensions easily removable or swing down some way, it would fit in the spot reserved for a saw. 
Any advice you guys can give me about maybe trying to mod this in some way?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Not easily*

The side extensions that bolt on require considerable precision in getting them level, so that's out, The motor haging out the back could be removed if the saw is only used occasionaly, nothing I would want to have to do myself. But your have specific needs, so that may be best for you. 2 screw/bolts and the belt, if I can visualize what it's like. Sometimes there's more room at the back of the garage than the side so see if that works. and put you shortest car on that side....just get a Smart Car! :laughing: bill


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The motor is probably more feasible to take on and off than the wings. The reason for the outboard location is for easy access to remove the motor.


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## abetrman (Mar 18, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> The side extensions that bolt on require considerable precision in getting them level, so that's out, The motor haging out the back could be removed if the saw is only used occasionaly, nothing I would want to have to do myself. But your have specific needs, so that may be best for you. 2 screw/bolts and the belt, if I can visualize what it's like. Sometimes there's more room at the back of the garage than the side so see if that works. and put you shortest car on that side....just get a Smart Car! :laughing: bill


A Smart Car would be the only car that could fit lol. The washer and dryer are located in the back of the garage as well. We are limited on their location because the house was built that way. I am considering the motor removal idea. I am not in a rush when using it so setting it up and taking it down, I have the time to do so. If I dont finish a project in one day, I guess I could leave my car parked outside overnight (my girls car is out of the question, lol). It is technically a voilation of the HOA for my landlords property, but people do it all the time. There is no driveway due to the layout of the houses. Kinda strange, but IIWII. 

It is probably more saw than I need right now for my little projects here and there, but $50, I just have a hard time passing it up. Especially since I am just getting into this, I don't won't to spend a lot of money up front while trying to learn what the heck it is I am doing.

Thanks for your ideas everyone. I got today to ponder about it, se we will see.

Hey knotscott. Appears you have a similar saw, do you think I could attach my router to one of the wings? I don't have a table for my router and that would be perfect if I could do that.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

abetrman said:


> ...Hey knotscott. Appears you have a similar saw, do you think I could attach my router to one of the wings? I don't have a table for my router and that would be perfect if I could do that.


I've bought and sold a few of those as refurb/parts projects to fund my "other saw", so I'm familiar with those old contractor saws. Yes, is the answer to your question...the vast majority of full size stationary saws are 27" deep, and are similar enough to sponge ideas from. If you Google images of "table saw router tables", you'll have loads of ideas. Not all that hard to do, and is a great learning exercise. You can often make them from scraps, old countertops, etc., for very little.


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## jerminator (Aug 31, 2011)

*motor pulleys*

found the motor pulleys at ace hardware like 9.50 a piece works great have the same saw still crusty though


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