# Hand saw id and evaporust questions



## railaw (Nov 15, 2011)

I picked up some hand saws some files and a number Four c from a garage sale. the 4 c was from eBay. I threw everything in evaporust for about 20 hours. Now I have a couple questions. First, not all of the black what I presume to be former rust is rinsing/rubbing off. What's my next step? Also, the 13" or so hand saw has some writing on the blade which I can only sort of make out. The most prominent design is three a's in a circle. Any ideas on its maker or age, or what it says? 

Also have a stanley 118p block plane for my son. Does the. Pace go bevel up in this?

Thanks in advance.


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## joe bailey (Dec 15, 2011)

That is the logo of the E.C. Atkins company (Indianapolis, IN). The three "A"s is a reference to their motto: "Atkins Always Ahead".
Atkins etches are notoriously shallow and light -- your best bet is to match to known model using handle shape.

Evaporust, citric acid and naval jelly all leave castings looking a dull grey. You're gonna have to scrub the heck out of it using scotchbrite pad (maroon) and some lube (like WD-40)


Block plane=bevel up.


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## railaw (Nov 15, 2011)

Thanks. One more question - whats a good indicator of when the evapo is used up? I had two tubs going and one is a pretty deep brown now while the other was mostly clean. 

Also, not a good idea to use a cardboard box with a trashbag in it then set that hanging half way off a stack of 2x4s sittin on top of the new cypress picnic table I built for my kids. Evaporust doesnt make for a particularly attractive stain....


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## joe bailey (Dec 15, 2011)

I have personally never used Evaporust. Instead I use citiric acid - and I dispose of it after a single use. But this brings up an interesting topic. I am not a proponent of chemical rust removers (or electrolysis for that matter) when it comes to saw blades.
There is evidence that electrolysis, as a rust removal techinique, results in hydrogen embrittlement, which can weaken the blade. I have no idea whether or not that's true. I avoid chemical treaments on saw blades because of 1) the dead grey look they impart, and 2) the effect they can have on what's left of the etch.
The proper technique, as far as I'm concerned consists of two basic steps: FIRST - use a single edge razor blade to shave the rust from the plate. SECOND use wet / dry silicon carbide paper (220-600 depending on state the saw plate is in) with some kind of cutting fluid (WD-40 or mineral spirits). Always use a *light touch and a sanding block* when working over the etch to avoid wiping it out.


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## JQMack (Sep 24, 2011)

Evaporust will start to get gray once you've used is and almost black when it's done.

I use it for some tools, but follow the same basic procedure Joe recommends for saw blades.


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## railaw (Nov 15, 2011)

Thanks. I have two more saws that I will likely try without the evapo.


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