# small part routing



## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I sometimes have to rout a profiled edge on smaller pieces and I often have to wonder if there is a safer way to do it. Anyone got any ideas or home made jigs that are specific for routing smaller parts on the router table safely. What methods do you use? Do you avoid the table and use an alternate method?
Ken


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Sled here..........approx 16x16 sq,1/4" aluminum plate riding in Tee slot.Attatched 1x1 alum angle,with slotted holes for square adj.Toggle or cam lock holdowns mounted behind angle but just as easy can be made pnuematic.Leave enough room between sled and fence for profiled,follow blocks which we cut on BS.We hang sled up on a nail next to shapers........but can be used on RT just as well.BW

Oh,and printed with one of those,embosed...sticky tape things,fr and cntr on shaper gaurd is:THINK SAFETY........it catches your eye everytime theres a bit change.


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## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

BW. i can't quite visualize your sled. could you post a pic?


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

A small hand screw clamp works great for holding small parts on the router table.
Horrible Freight sells the 4" one for $3.99 (sale price $1.99)
They work for clamping also!


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## jaxonquad (Jan 26, 2011)

I have an article on something similar to this, ill look for it when I get home. I would think something that moves freely around the table(not fixed in the tslot) would be more suitable for odd shaped pieces? ...


Idk about you but sometimes I feel like I spend more time making jigs than I spend on the actual "project".then I usually think to myself "maybe im not very creative after all"
:laughing:


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## jaxonquad (Jan 26, 2011)

Pirate said:


> A small hand screw clamp works great for holding small parts on the router table.
> Horrible Freight sells the 4" one for $3.99 (sale price $1.99)
> They work for clamping also!


Like this :laughing: like I said sometimes I think to myself....


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks for the replies guys. The pieces that I have to rout are quite often odd shapes with no square edges. I like the clamp idea. I'd rather tear into a clamp than into my fingers.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I go with the clamp too. When I first started woodworking, I inherited3 of these in different sizes and I didn't really like them or use them much. Now I'd be lost without them, I use them for so many different things.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Clamping pcs with router'd or finished edges is an issue.......try to use a sled where you have pressure in the down direction.On odd shaped pcs you can attatch guide blocks and create a sort of custom fixture.

And don't think sleds "always" have to be under wkpce.They in fact can be made VERY safe when used on top....to the point that you now can use them on piloted bits.BW


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Interesting BDub,

I've always thought of a sled below the workpiece.

Can you post a pic of an "over-sled?

J


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## WWWorker (Jan 12, 2011)

jxonguard,
I love the pic of that sled! I am currently building a router table into my TS extension and that is my next project!


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

This

Or this


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

jharris,your fixture looks fine.

Where the Black knobs are.....in the design phase be thinking,what would it take to have these knobs on the other side?And the nuts or bolt heads have to be recessed so as to not protrude from the surface.

Then lose the camlock altogether(or repostion to act on end of block) and that fixture can be used upside down....it also could be used against fence in the vert position.Subplate in or subplate out(its position reletive to fence).In the "in" position workpce would have to set heighth to keep subplate out of cutter,if thats a consideration.

It could be tweaked a bit more........Just run the what'ifs in the design phase.....Basically the more plain the original subplate is the more versitile it is.1/4 Aluminum works great here 'cause its about the minimum for being tapped.Plus it has a VG weight vs stiffness ratio.But Alum cannot and shouldn't be thought as the only way.In your fixture above,used in the vert position,the blocks that are squeezin on the ends of part are a form of follower block and will be profiled along with the part.Alum dosn't play nice with most cutter heads.

Next up....how to run multiple workpcs on a single fixture.Soon as you get into vacumn plates or pnuematic's its all gravy.Gonna have to use the 'ole noggin a touch more iffin you want mechanical multi wkpce fixture.But with a little thought..........look you have to build the fixture.You spend X amt time designing/building....if theres a need for many,many parts which equates to a bunch of part changes,mistakes,yadayada.........you then don't have to think very hard on the why's of multi part fixture.BW


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## jfwernicke (Jan 11, 2008)

A bit more expensive then a clamp. but MLCS has a Safety Small parts Handler on sale for $19.95. Free shipping. I have bought quite a lot from them - good quality, promptly shipped.

mlcswoodworking.com


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

these are all great suggestion. I just have to decide which one works for me.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Thanks BDub,

I really appreciate the input. I never considered using a small parts jig/sled in a vertical position.

You've really got me thinking of the possibilities.

I really love building jigs. They make woodworking so much safer and allow for increased accuracy and consistancy. That's what is all about right?

Thanks again for your help.

Jeff


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Jeff,different folks see or have a knack for different things(ain't that great).Within that "knack",once a certain level of proficiency is attained....the wheels REALLY start to turn.Theres probably some slick buzzword for that process in management world?Duh....

But once a person really starts to "see" that project,craft,chore ect....then the sky's the limit.In jig/fixture design(we have some college level eng. books somewhere in the library,ain't seen'M in years)really try to get the visualization thing down.Start flippin it over within the mind's eye.....see the part,see the part get loaded,see the part get shot across rm,wait don't do that.haha.Yeah I like fixtures because of repeatability.Talk to you later,BW


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

BWSmith said:


> Jeff,different folks see or have a knack for different things(ain't that great).Within that "knack",once a certain level of proficiency is attained....the wheels REALLY start to turn.Theres probably some slick buzzword for that process in management world?Duh....
> 
> But once a person really starts to "see" that project,craft,chore ect....then the sky's the limit.In jig/fixture design(we have some college level eng. books somewhere in the library,ain't seen'M in years)really try to get the visualization thing down.Start flippin it over within the mind's eye.....see the part,see the part get loaded,see the part get shot across rm,wait don't do that.haha.Yeah I like fixtures because of repeatability.Talk to you later,BW


Yeah, I know what you mean Bdub.
I believe the corporate term for this is "thinking outside the box". Soooo glad I'm in the shop or field and not sitting at a conference table in some stuffy boardroom with a bunch of suits being strangled by my own necktie!

Jeff


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Couldn't add this photo to previous post because I'm now jharris2 due to phone change.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

I was sorting through my thread subscriptions and came across this link.

Here is a PDF plan for the small parts jig I posted earlier.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...14CIAQ&usg=AFQjCNFjbVCDwxyQfg6hN4BzewRZooATog


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## evilzed (Jan 3, 2013)

I have had success using my MicroJig Grripper.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Being unfamiliar with the Grripper I'm having a bit of trouble visualizing how that could be done.

After watching this video 






and knowing the advantages of using the micro jig at the TS I can see your point.

I've been wanting one for quite some time.

However.... the Gripper Micro Jig would not work on small irregular parts like this.











Conversely my jig would not help at all in eliminating the snipe issue depicted in the video.


The gripper stays on my wish list.

;(


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks for the PDF file. Looks like I have another jig on my "build" list.
:thumbsup:


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Kenbo said:


> Thanks for the PDF file. Looks like I have another jig on my "build" list.


Your welcome Ken. I can see how that jig would be very helpful to you with some of your modeling etc.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

When I makes knobs for jigs and such, I usually make a lobed knob 2½ -3" in diameter. To round over something like that I usually just use one of those plastic table saw push blocks with the rubber pad. I just place it on top of the work piece and go for it. Since the bit is bearing guided and doesn't extend above the work piece, it's just fine. You just have to keep bit direction in mind and be careful not to get on the wrong side of it. :smile:


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## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

i just bought the woodpecker coping sled a couple weeks ago, was unsure about use vs. cost (about 130 bucks) but my local klingspor shop is awesome and said i could bring it back, it will be staying in the shop! i like doing stiles, end grain profiles, etc. with it because it doesnt require a T-slot, it rides the fence. I have three router tables, a shaper, and a TS insert and it works great on all of them. my fingers feel a lot safer now! hope this helps


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

willbess08 said:


> i just bought the woodpecker coping sled a couple weeks ago, was unsure about use vs. cost (about 130 bucks) but my local klingspor shop is awesome and said i could bring it back, it will be staying in the shop! i like doing stiles, end grain profiles, etc. with it because it doesnt require a T-slot, it rides the fence. I have three router tables, a shaper, and a TS insert and it works great on all of them. my fingers feel a lot safer now! hope this helps


Woodpecker makes good stuff, but they charge you for it too.:thumbsup:
I was about ready to pull the trigger on one of those sleds a couple of years ago but some guys on another forum talked me into making a large push block first. Put a sacrificial face on it and haven't felt the need for sled since.:smile:


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