# Filling Large Voids Prior to Finish?



## swizzmeister (Jul 3, 2009)

Hi, this is my first post (besides intro). I apologize in advance for barging in with a question.
I am constructing a workbench/coffee table for my man-cave.
The top that I'm working with is a nice diagonal slice of Curly Sugar Maple (kiln dried) which has a thickness of 1.5".
The finished surface needs to be somewhat chemical and spill resistant (since I'm a known klutz). I opted for System Three Mirror Coat. I'm aware that the product will yellow somewhat after cure. After weighing out the pros and cons, I decided that this was the best product for my application since it will see very little in the way of UVs. 
I've already brought the piece to a shop and had the surface fine-sanded. What I'm interested in now is.....
How do I fill the gaping cracks that have occurred in two of the prominent knots prior to finishing? 
The cracks pretty much run (diagonally) all the way through the wood. I would prefer to fill them with a product that is black. I don't wish to disguise the cracks, I'd rather accent them. I figured black would be a subtle way to achieve this.
Anyway... I first thought epoxy might be the answer but then I got to thinkin'..... what if the chemicals in the epoxy bleed into the wood? Also... the epoxy would be difficult to use on the really small cracks, or where the larger cracks taper down to nothing.
So.... a friend recommended that I use a cellulose-based filler, but I only found one product (Wunderfil) that is available in black.
Am I missing the boat here? There's probably a really easy solution to this problem that I'm not aware of. 
Any help or advice would be much appreciated, thanks!
Here's an image to give you an idea of what I'm talking about:


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I would use Kwik Poly. It can be tinted to any color or you can add sawdust. Even better when first mixed it is as thin as water and will pour deep into any size crack. It will thicken up as it starts to get warm and then you had better move FAST. It also sands easily.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Ooops, here is a link...

http://kwikpolyllc.com/


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## swizzmeister (Jul 3, 2009)

Thanks for the reply Rick, I checked out the link.
I'm a little worried about that product staining the wood, especially if I tint it black. Would that be a concern with this product? On smaller cracks I'd like to have the option of overfilling them and sanding flush.


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

*I deal with defects/anomolies like those all the time*

and I always go with a clear, two part, epoxy resin. Several things make it my filler of choice but the main feature is that it does not penetrate the wood in a way that would prevent even absorption of a stain or any finish. It merely fills the void and the overfill justs rests on the surface waiting to be sanded off. I have never had a problem with getting it to fill even the smallest opening in a crack or blemish. I just pour it on and add to it from time to time as necessary. I use masking tape to block the rear of any holes that are through and if I need to be away and can't add as the void fills, I have learned to create a dam around the area so that I can overfill more than normal. To get rid of the entrapped air (the result of stirring the resin and the catalyst) I just let them rise to the top then I lean down real close to the wood and breathe across the pour. The bubbles will disappear like majic. As to the color, just using the epoxy without any dye results in a black orb with the appearance of incredible depth. Give it a try on a scrap piece and I am sure you will be happy with the results. Just as with any finish, when you sand the epoxy flush, it will take on a cloudy appearance. Rest assured that this will go away with the application of your chosen sealer coat.

Ed


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

The kwik poly won't stain the wood any different than the epoxy would.


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## swizzmeister (Jul 3, 2009)

Excellent advice Rick and edp, I very much appreciate it. Based on that.... I'm confident enough to go with an epoxy (probably the one Rick recommended). I'm also going to do a quick experiment with clear rather than black as edp suggested.
Many thanks!


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Experiment on a piece of scrap wood if at all possible...


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## swizzmeister (Jul 3, 2009)

I definitely will.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

My choice would be clear, as well. It will accent the cracks without overpowering anything.

That piece will make a very interesting table for your man cave.

Gerry


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## Leatherneck (Dec 14, 2008)

that'll make a nice hunk of wood for the cave ... can you post a full view?


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