# Hinges on Mailbox



## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

Hello all,
I attempting to make a mailbox and looking for some tips on how to hinge the top. It's at a 22 degree angle and I'm now realizing that when the top is open, it needs space behind the mailbox to clear that back edge making it hard to attach the mailbox to my house. Thought I'd ask if anyone has any other ideas on how to go about hinging the top of the mailbox....


Thanks,
Joe


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Will USPS accept it?


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## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

I didn't know that was a question to be asked, I've seen other mailboxes handmade that were being used without a problem...


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## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

Rip 1" off the entire back edge of your top. Mount this 1" rip to your mailbox. Mount a piano hinge to it and then mount the remainder of your top to the hinge.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

options


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

J L said:


> Rip 1" off the entire back edge of your top. Mount this 1" rip to your mailbox. Mount a piano hinge to it and then mount the remainder of your top to the hinge.


This will work, but will no longer be water tight. Any rain falling on the upper 1" drains into the hinge crack and into the box. 
I would use a 3/4" thick board as a stand-off from the side of the house. 
Attach the board to the house and the mailbox to the board. This 3/4" space allows you to open the top but keeps the interior dry.


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## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

Had built a similar style to yours out of cedar, but used a 2x4 for the back support piece, attaching that piece with heavy "mollys" (due to heavy mail weight) into the vinyl siding. Then attach your mailbox to the 2x4. As for water leaking inside - a piece of roof flashing did the trick for me. Doubtful if the USPO will object to style/material. Be safe.


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## DT Boss (Jun 27, 2013)

JoeMemphis said:


> I didn't know that was a question to be asked, I've seen other mailboxes handmade that were being used without a problem...


https://www.usps.com/manage/mailboxes.htm


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## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

Thanks for the illustrated pics, that helps a lot. I think I have enough scrap to use as a mounting board. Now I have been looking at it and I don't know about inlaying the hinges I have due to the 22 degree angle of the back of the mailbox. The hinges will lift the back of the top slightly, wondering where I would get thin rubber(strips?) to put along the lip of the mailbox to correct the hinges raising the back of the top up...thinking this could seal the mailbox from rain as well?


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

First thing, you don't want to seal the box from moisture. That also means that it will seal moisture IN if it gets in there. Mailman delivers a stack of mail in the rain, water gets into the box, then it starts to mold up in there because the moisture can't get out. It needs to breathe to dry out.

Second, if you're going to stand the box off the wall with a mounting system, there will be no need to inlay the hinges. They will be behind, virtually invisible from the front and sides.


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## JoeMemphis (Jan 19, 2013)

I had planned to attach the hinges to the back of the mailbox and the underside of the top which would rest on the lip of the mailbox raising the top the thickness of the hinge. since the top is 1/2 inch thick not sure if I find 1/2 wide hinges that would be sturdy enough, plus not sure about putting screws into half inch cedar without splitting it. Most hinges have holes that are off center so would be tricky. About the seal, what about some kind of rubber stripping to run across the back attached to bottom of the top and the back of the mailbox to hide the hinges and also keeping rain from entering. That 22 degree angle plus the mounting board would give rain a way in. I notice my current mailbox is the same angle and when the rain is sideways my mail gets a little damp.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Again, in steps ...
1) I never drive screws directly into "raw" wood. Pre-drill holes the size of the screws "shaft", the part of the screw that is NOT thread. Then, gently putting the screw in only engages the threads. This greatly reduces the chances of splitting the wood, as you are not wedging in nearly as much.
By pre-drilling the holes, you can put screws closer to edges without splitting out.

2) It's the lid to a mailbox ... not the top of a Hope Chest. 1/2 inch hinges will do fine.

3) I don't know what to tell you about a rubber strip. I suppose you could attach it across the top of the back, and let it hang across the seam?

I think someone else needs to give you some guidance on that point.


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