# Board Buddies Hold Down Wheels?



## DIY (Jun 10, 2011)

I saw these in a magazine and they look promising. I found the set for $35, and another $21 for the track. Going to go look at my fence to see if I need the track or not tonight. 










Just wondering if anybody's used them? or heard good or bad about them?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*use only 1 Board Buddy, not 2 of them*

I've used something similar, but the problem is the front one is smack in the way when ripping narrow pieces 3-6" wide. The rear one simply acts as a hold down after the cut is made and as far as I know has a one direction rotation to "prevent" kickback. This is also a problem sometimes when you need to withdraw the workpiece and readjust the cut a little bit....you can't do it. To prevent the work from lifting after the cut, a feather board or something that will slip a little would be my preference if needed at all. A proper push stick that directs the forces downward and away is the best solution I have found.  bill
BTW the "gripper" may be a better solution if you are concerned with safety and lifting of the workpiece. There are videos on You Tube...check 'em out.


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## sweensdv (Mar 3, 2008)

In general I find them quite handy. As mentioned, they do have a couple of drawbacks but overall they are functional, increase safety and don't break the bank doing it.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Like woodenthings, I've used 'em but went back to feather boards and/or a Grrripper. Same reasons he gave, too.


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## bob h. (Aug 29, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> I've used something similar, but the problem is the front one is smack in the way when ripping narrow pieces 3-6" wide. The rear one simply acts as a hold down after the cut is made and as far as I know has a one direction rotation to "prevent" kickback. This is also a problem sometimes when you need to withdraw the workpiece and readjust the cut a little bit....you can't do it. To prevent the work from lifting after the cut, a feather board or something that will slip a little would be my preference if needed at all. A proper push stick that directs the forces downward and away is the best solution I have found.  bill
> BTW the "gripper" may be a better solution if you are concerned with safety and lifting of the workpiece. There are videos on You Tube...check 'em out.


I disagree with the premise that the front wheel is in the way on narrow rips. I have been using the "yellow wheels" for about 15 years, and have found nothing better or more adaptable for ripping on the tablesaw. These things especially shine when ripping large sheet goods, with their ability to hold the work against the fence. You need to make up the proper push sticks, and fixture the wheels so that they are easy-on, easy-off, otherwise you won't use them. I have mine set up with the track, on a longer carrier board dadoed to fit my Vega pro fence, and locked in place with two pressure screws. On or off in 10 seconds or less.

Bob


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## DIY (Jun 10, 2011)

Thank you all for your replies. My saw is one of the cheap "portable job site saws". I really like the idea of the magnetic featherboards, but this one must have an aluminum table & fence (all non magnetic).

I guess my choices are either design some sort of mount for feather boards, or go with these. It seems that they would mount easily to my fence, on the track for what looks like easy removal. 



bob h. said:


> I disagree with the premise that the front wheel is in the way on narrow rips. I have been using the "yellow wheels" for about 15 years, and have found nothing better or more adaptable for ripping on the tablesaw. These things especially shine when ripping large sheet goods, with their ability to hold the work against the fence. You need to make up the proper push sticks, and fixture the wheels so that they are easy-on, easy-off, otherwise you won't use them. I have mine set up with the track, on a longer carrier board dadoed to fit my Vega pro fence, and locked in place with two pressure screws. On or off in 10 seconds or less.
> 
> Bob


Bob,
You mention using a "carrier board". I'm a little confused here. I thought that they were designed to mount the track directly to the fence and had an integrated quick release. 


Could you possibly elaborate and maybe post some pictures of your setup? It would be much appreciated.


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## DIY (Jun 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> I've used something similar, but the problem is the front one is smack in the way when ripping narrow pieces 3-6" wide.


I'm don't quite understand what you mean by "in the way". The stock photos I've seen all show about a 4" wide board being ripped against the fence using both wheels. Could you explain?



woodnthings said:


> BTW the "gripper" may be a better solution if you are concerned with safety and lifting of the workpiece. There are videos on You Tube...check 'em out.


I'm taking a look at that now. It looks pretty cool, especially for small pieces. Thanks.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

I hate them. Anyone here want a set?

free, especially if local.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*funny!*

You might not get any offers here after this thread. :laughing: 
Free? then maybe
My objection to them is if you use both the front and the rear, the front restricts the use of a push stick ON TOP of the work.
Yes , you can always use a sacrificial piece to push them UNDER the wheels, but that doesn't work for me...just personal.
If they are easily and quickly removed, then that issue goes away.
The rear wheel may restrict the width or narrow cuts if you have a splitter or if the wheel bumps into the blade which it may, say on a 1 1/2" rip. There should be no contact from any device until after the kerf is made. They should be behind the blade if used at all. 

Somethin' similar is what I have. You must be certain the fence is securely locked when using these to provide the necessary down force and if there should be a kick back everything won't come back at you, including the fence.....
Mine can be easily raised up or slid in or out if they are in the way. I got these years ago at a Leichtung store. Probably not available, any longer. :no: bill


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I haven't used the Board Buddies, but do use a Vega "stock feeder" that I adapted to my Exacta fence.
It does a great job keeping the stock against the fence. You can start feeding a piece, 1/4" from the fence, in in a few inches, it's flat against the fence.
Ripping numerous pieces, it's a time saver.
You don't need a featherboard. Just push the stock thru.


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## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

*Yellow & Green*

The yellow Board Buddies only clockwise but the Green ones go both ways.


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## Ledhead (Aug 3, 2009)

I agree with Bill, using a board buddy before the blade gets in the way, so I use a feather board instead. A board buddy behind the blade works fine.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Am too lazy to go get pics of skateboard wheels,personally stolen from my kids.......mounted on a pce of 3x5 steel angle.One leg of that angle,mounts to fence system of whatever equip its on.The wheel's truck system is a 3 axle,wheel on each end.....which can revolve around the fore & aft shaft that they all ride on.That shaft is spring load adj.....which changes the pressure on either end of trucks.


Finished in Powermatic Green.Used to use it in the vertical plane once in awhile(BS.shaper)....well enough that it was/is a design consideration.Along with sledge hammer "test" reliabilty,rigidity,it works as intended.I got so frustrated with BB's.....just created what we needed specifically here.BW


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