# Which planer for 2x4?



## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

Hi All,

I'm planning to build some tables (dining, coffee, end, and maybe a sofa later) with 2x4s, and in one of the comments somewhere, someone mentioned planing the 2x4s would help "finish" it.

I've never worked with a planer before, and I'm unsure what kind I would need for 2x4s.

Could someone advise whether I need a handheld or a table planer? (I mean both electric, not the hand scrapers)

The tables I think I'm leaning toward are: http://www.ana-white.com/2012/05/plans/rustic-x-console but my husband and I are undecided whether to stick with the rustic look or go with a more finished look.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's the deal ...*

A quality bench top planer like a Dewalt 735, is a sizable expense, $600.00:
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735-13-Inch-Thickness-Planer/dp/B0000CCXU8

The smaller model is $400.00:
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW734-...TF8&qid=1461740675&sr=1-1&keywords=Dewalt+734

You can find them used also. If you are willing to spend that kind of money to start out, that's great. Some cautions are that 2 X 4 construction grade lumber is not all that stable. It may twist and warp when you get it inside you shop because the environment is different than in a stack of wood in the store. 

Also 2 X 4's will have rounded corners along the edges depending on the mill where they were made. Your table tops would be better having those removed, thus the need for a planer. :surprise2: However, a good table saw would work well also. What you could do is purchase, wider boards, like a 2 X 8 and rip off the rounded edges to reduce the number of cuts, giving a "wide plank" look to the tops. I did this in a door I made linked below.

Gluing up those planks, or many narrow 2 X 4's is a bit of a challenge also. You'll need a level surface and a considerable number of clamps. The saw horses must be level or the top will be twisted. I made a door out of 2 X 8 planks and the approach would be the same for a table top:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/door-build-2-xs-1-4-ply-55717/

That's my experience, for what it's worth. :smile3:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Planing 2x4's won't help you unless you flatten them on a jointer first. All you would be doing is making the wood thinner. Then if you used a hand held planer you would end up with all different thicknesses which would give you far more problems than not planing the boards at all. A jointer would be far more useful to you. You would need to straighten the edges of the wood and remove the rounded corners in order to glue them together for the tops.


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## 1acre (Apr 7, 2016)

These "DIY blogs" and making everything out of 2x4's. It serves the purpose short term, but it not anything I would keep in my house long term. And that pine makes me want to hurl when someone takes a can of minwax stain and tries to put a nice finish on it. At least paint it. Not to mention, all the warping, twisting and bending that will ensue because the wood wasn't properly dried. Then there are the rounded corners to deal with. 

I can't talk too much smack though, I built my workbench top out of 2x4's. I also let them acclimate in the garage for a couple week, hit it on the jointer then ripped and planed down the other 2 faces. Finished off with a dado on the short edge and spline to keep everything together. It looks nice for a garage, but I'm planning on going to more stable top. I get an 'A' for effort, 'F' for functionality.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

Yikes, ok, maybe you guys better tell me if this is feasible with what I have.

I'm looking to build the tables I mentioned (dining, coffee, end, and maybe a sofa table and desks later). I want to build them cheaply, and they need to look nice, but nicely rustic is fine. (Basically, we are not beautiful house people, we don't decorate, none of our furniture comes close to matching, I don't know how to explain it) Anyway, DH's new job requires us to entertain in our home, so we're trying to get it together so that it looks nice to visitors. (NOTE, we are not in that home, we are moving there in a few months, but hubby's birthday is in a week, and he's gone on business, so I wanted to build the dining table while he's gone, he'll be back in 2 weeks)

I am not a complete amateur builder, but I'm not capable of overly complicated stuff either, and to compound that, most of my tools are packed. I have access to my circle and jigsaws, my tabletop miter, my drill, screwdrivers and whatnot. My table saw and my drill press would be a real pain to get to, though not impossible. (Most of our stuff is already packed for the move and the drill press and table saw are buried in the garage.) Oh, and I can get to my sander, but I don't think I can find my belt sander, so I'm prepared to buy one of those for this. None of my tools are high end, usually the cheapest thing from Lowe's/HD (I paid like $99 for my table saw like 12 years ago), but they've met my purposes thus far (I've built loft beds, a Murphy bed (from the linked site), chicken coops, sawhorses, pig pen, stanchions, enclosed the back of my shed, and a few other things, I'll put a few pics below)

On the dining table only, I need to be able to take it apart, so I was thinking of building the frame for the top and the top first, and then figuring out how to attach the legs (thinking carriage bolts) without using wood screws that will strip the wood over time with taking them in and out. That way I could remove the legs from the tabletop (that can stay in one piece)

None of the plans I'm looking at call for jointers or planers, but I did read a comment on one about removing the rounded edges on the 2x4s with a planer, that's where I got that from. If I left them rounded, for the dining table only (I'm thinking it'll be a 6-7' table, 8' is too long I think) could I fill the "cracks" with wood putty and sand it smooth? I feel like a dining table should be a smooth surface without ridges, but I guess if I have to, I have leave it sort of picnic style?

These are the tables I'm looking at building:
http://www.ana-white.com/2012/07/plans/rustic-x-coffee-table
http://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/kitchen-and-dining/diy-dining-set/project#noop
http://jenwoodhouse.com/diy-dining-table/
http://www.morelikehome.net/2012/10/day-18-build-homestead-dining-table.html

Some pics of what I've built, the Murphy bed was by far the most complicated (involved veneering), and you can only see it in the pic of the chicken coop unfortunately. I don't have a pic of the free standing goat stanchion, but it was a lot more building than the cow stanchion I put in our "barn".

Also, I should mention, I have very limited space, outside, uncovered (but it's level concrete) to build this. I didn't plan on clamping anything as I will move it inside at night or when it rains. There's a pic of the front of my barn, that's my workshop when I'm "home", but unfortunately I'm not home right now :-(


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

1acre said:


> These "DIY blogs" and making everything out of 2x4's. It serves the purpose short term, but it not anything I would keep in my house long term. And that pine makes me want to hurl when someone takes a can of minwax stain and tries to put a nice finish on it. At least paint it. Not to mention, all the warping, twisting and bending that will ensue because the wood wasn't properly dried. Then there are the rounded corners to deal with.
> 
> I can't talk too much smack though, I built my workbench top out of 2x4's. I also let them acclimate in the garage for a couple week, hit it on the jointer then ripped and planed down the other 2 faces. Finished off with a dado on the short edge and spline to keep everything together. It looks nice for a garage, but I'm planning on going to more stable top. I get an 'A' for effort, 'F' for functionality.


 EEK! How short term are we talking???? I need the table to last 3 years and look decent....and yes I plan on staining NOT painting (a very light stain, I despise dark furniture, and I think painted wood furniture looks gross) I don't mind a rustic/farmhouse look, I'm not at all a fancy person, and I'd be using a tablecloth when guests were over, but not for everyday pop-in visitors...

If I skip the blogs, what do you think about the Lowe's plans for the table?? (Crap, suddenly I'm very glad I found this forum!)


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

Amilo said:


> EEK! How short term are we talking???? I need the table to last 3 years and look decent....and yes I plan on staining NOT painting (a very light stain, I despise dark furniture, and I think painted wood furniture looks gross) I don't mind a rustic/farmhouse look, I'm not at all a fancy person, and I'd be using a tablecloth when guests were over, but not for everyday pop-in visitors...
> 
> If I skip the blogs, what do you think about the Lowe's plans for the table?? (Crap, suddenly I'm very glad I found this forum!)



Some people hate pine. Kinda snobbish about it  I build all kinds of furniture out of pine but something you have to know going into it, it dents easy. If you are going for a reclaimed or rustic look than for me pine is fine. If you are trying to build fine furniture it will show wear overtime.



















Those are all reclaimed pine. They have nail holes in them, dents, and knots. And I love them for it. But I agree building "fine" or "fancy" furniture out of pine may not be a good idea.


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

michaelpugh said:


> some people hate pine. Kinda snobbish about it  i build all kinds of furniture out of pine but something you have to know going into it, it dents easy. If you are going for a reclaimed or rustic look than for me pine is fine. If you are trying to build fine furniture it will show wear overtime.
> View attachment 234626
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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

michaelpugh said:


> Some people hate pine. Kinda snobbish about it  I build all kinds of furniture out of pine but something you have to know going into it, it dents easy. If you are going for a reclaimed or rustic look than for me pine is fine. If you are trying to build fine furniture it will show wear overtime.
> View attachment 234626
> View attachment 234634
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> ...


Definitely not going for fine furniture. Your tables are beautiful. I don't have access to reclaimed wood, do you think I could still achieve a decent piece of furniture out of lumber store wood? (Your table with the grey chairs, what is the top? Is that plywood?)

Do you think a lighter stain on your dark tables would look as good? I think the darkest I would go (assuming Minwax) would be a cherry, and the lightest would be their Honey Pine.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

I should clarify, I can appreciate beauty in dark or painted furniture, it's just not my taste right now for my home. 20 years ago, when DH and I first married, we went all dark (granted it was Sauder furniture, but we went with the dark cherry and blacks)....now I want a lighter, brighter house (I like stark white walls!) I've also had painted wood over the years, I just find myself in a different taste right now. Thankfully hubby's taste seems to change about the same time mine does (and no I don't pressure him, I'm not that type of person lol, I'm all about function, not pretty.)


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

No plywood. Everything is reclaimed pine. That is 5/4 deck boards planed down then glued up into a panel. I have all the fancy tools now but when I first started I had a cheap "job site" table saw and a small makita miter saw and still made some cool furniture. The lumber from the store in some respects would probably be easier to work with. I have to remove all nails and screws and a lot of times remove a layer of wood that is just too weathered to look good.


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

I think the stain choice is totally yours. When staining we use dark walnut most of the time but have used other colors. We've even done a gray stain for a customer that came out pretty cool







We usually do three coats of poly that change the color and look a little and I like the sheen we get. We do the first two coats gloss and the last in satin.


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## 1acre (Apr 7, 2016)

I have nothing against pine, other than being soft. I don't think 2x4's for a table top is a good idea. Yes, it may last 2-3 years, probably more. I took some care with my workbench to acclimate the wood, milled the lumber, let it rest, cut it and did some final milling. And I still have boards twisting on me. I love that I can drop anything on it and I don't have to worry about it breaking what ever I am dropping. But the edges and gaps that have appeared over the last 9 months are a bit bothersome to me for woodworking. It all depends on what your standards are. We have our limitations and and budget constraints. So...I get the need for building furniture out of framing lumber. If that is the path the OP must go, I'm more than willing to help, I just wanted them to know what they are getting into... 

For the finish, guilty as charged, I hate the blotchy look. I'd wash coat, use a dye stain or gel stain and once the color is in place, use your choice clear finish. But, I'd prefer to paint it.


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## 1acre (Apr 7, 2016)

michaelpugh said:


> I think the stain choice is totally yours. When staining we use dark walnut most of the time but have used other colors. We've even done a gray stain for a customer that came out pretty cool
> View attachment 234666
> 
> We usually do three coats of poly that change the color and look a little and I like the sheen we get. We do the first two coats gloss and the last in satin.



That gray does look nice!!


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

michaelpugh said:


> I think the stain choice is totally yours. When staining we use dark walnut most of the time but have used other colors. We've even done a gray stain for a customer that came out pretty cool
> View attachment 234666
> 
> We usually do three coats of poly that change the color and look a little and I like the sheen we get. We do the first two coats gloss and the last in satin.


That grey is GORGEOUS. My kitchen in my home is grey (the home I own, not the home I need to decorate, it's light wood cabinets there) I wonder if a grey stain would be overkill with my grey kitchen? (I do not plan to use the dining table in my own home, I have a beautiful teak table I have coveted for years (it's my mom's) that will go there, I just don't have it now, nor do I want to go get it and risk damaging it in at least 2 more moves before we are permanently home. I WILL however, most likely keep the other tables for my home, so I would put an end table, possibly a coffee table (I don't understand my husband's fascination with those darn things, I'd rather have clear floor space), and maybe make a TV stand to match. Pics of my kitchen below, it's our "main room" in our house, 95% of our time is spent in there. The pics are not of my things, but we do put a couch in the same spot, and a large TV where the small one is. What kind of finish does the 2 coats of gloss and one of satin leave you with? I LOVE satin, hate gloss/shiny. (My stepdad, when Alzheimer's had taken it's toll, poly'd that beautiful teak table, so now it's shiny. I am hopeful I will be able to strip that off and restore it's beautiful oiled finish.)



1acre said:


> I have nothing against pine, other than being soft. I don't think 2x4's for a table top is a good idea. Yes, it may last 2-3 years, probably more. I took some care with my workbench to acclimate the wood, milled the lumber, let it rest, cut it and did some final milling. And I still have boards twisting on me. I love that I can drop anything on it and I don't have to worry about it breaking what ever I am dropping. But the edges and gaps that have appeared over the last 9 months are a bit bothersome to me for woodworking. It all depends on what your standards are. We have our limitations and and budget constraints. So...I get the need for building furniture out of framing lumber. If that is the path the OP must go, I'm more than willing to help, I just wanted them to know what they are getting into...
> 
> For the finish, guilty as charged, I hate the blotchy look. I'd wash coat, use a dye stain or gel stain and once the color is in place, use your choice clear finish. But, I'd prefer to paint it.


What is wash coat? I'm open to suggestions on the right type of stain to use. I usually use a wood conditioner on interior projects, does that help avoid the blotchy look?

If I don't build a dining table, I'm going to buy this from Sam's. I seriously do not want to drop a lot of money on something I only need for 3-5 years. I have SEVERAL dining tables already. I inherited an oak table, I believe it has 5 leaves, it used to be the table in my grandparents' hotel, and I love that table. I have my mom's teak table, AND I also have the table (only the table, we bought it from the house's previous owners) in the pics below. I have a huge covered porch (23' wide, 80' ish long) on my house, and I would likely put the table I build out there when we get home, or sell it.

Notice my diamond plate blacksplash...totally fell in with our not being fancy people haha. The pic with the dishwasher most accurately shows the grey, it's much darker than it looks in the other pics.


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

I've never understood the blotchy comment about pine but I know it's not just you that feels that way because I have seen it many times before. I assume you're talking about the different colors in the wood and that's something I love as I'm staining a piece. Seeing all the different colors etc come out. Obviously a taste thing. The more I think about it I understand what you're saying if you are going for that look.






i love all the colors lol. Is this what you mean by blotchy?


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

We use two coats of gloss first because satin can get clouded with multiple coats. We do the final coat of satin because we don't like the shiny either.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

michaelpugh said:


> I've never understood the blotchy comment about pine but I know it's not just you that feels that way because I have seen it many times before. I assume you're talking about the different colors in the wood and that's something I love as I'm staining a piece. Seeing all the different colors etc come out. Obviously a taste thing. The more I think about it I understand what you're saying if you are going for that look.
> View attachment 234706
> i love all the colors lol. Is this what you mean by blotchy?


Oh if that's what he means, I'm ok with that, That's a beautiful finish in my book.



michaelpugh said:


> We use two coats of gloss first because satin can get clouded with multiple coats. We do the final coat of satin because we don't like the shiny either.


HMMM! What do you think would happen to that teak table if I put satin over the gloss years after the gloss was put on? (Wondering if that would be better than trying to strip it, tho I still wouldn't have the oiled finish.)


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## 1acre (Apr 7, 2016)

blotchy looks good on birds eye maple. Pine is just too boring for it to appease my eye. But, I'm not asking you to "understand" what I like/don't like. 

Washcoat is a finish which is cut down with the appropriate solvent. Shellac cut to 1 lb. Poly/varnish cut 1:1 or 1:2 with mineral spirits. The latter is what is most likely sold as "Wood conditioner" "sanding sealer" "pre-stain" "tung oil" etc. It will help to keep too much stain from seeping into the grain which takes too much, and not enough elsewhere. Applied correctly, it will even out your stain job. a stain with dye only will also help. A gel stain helps to even out as well. run a step board (a scrap piece showing all your finishing steps) before you dive into the big piece.


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

I'm no expert so if someone else has an expert opinion I would listen to them but if you are going to strip it anyway I would try a satin coat first. You would want to sand the finish you have so it will adhere. If you're not happy with the result you can always go back to your first plan and strip.


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

1acre said:


> blotchy looks good on birds eye maple. Pine is just too boring for it to appease my eye. But, I'm not asking you to "understand" what I like/don't like.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't mean to sound rude with my understand comment I'm sorry. I've just always wondered what people meant by blotchy. I've never had a finish come out looking blotchy to me so I was trying to figure out what you meant. Is it the different colors of wood or is it something else?


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

1acre said:


> blotchy looks good on birds eye maple. Pine is just too boring for it to appease my eye. But, I'm not asking you to "understand" what I like/don't like.
> 
> Washcoat is a finish which is cut down with the appropriate solvent. Shellac cut to 1 lb. Poly/varnish cut 1:1 or 1:2 with mineral spirits. The latter is what is most likely sold as "Wood conditioner" "sanding sealer" "pre-stain" "tung oil" etc. It will help to keep too much stain from seeping into the grain which takes too much, and not enough elsewhere. Applied correctly, it will even out your stain job. a stain with dye only will also help. A gel stain helps to even out as well. run a step board (a scrap piece showing all your finishing steps) before you dive into the big piece.


(Completely understand we all have difference preferences about what is appealing to our eyes)

Thanks for the explanation, and I will absolutely do a test piece! Can't remember if I've used a gel stain before, I know I've used liquid, and I've used the combo stain/poly (didn't love that).



michaelpugh said:


> I'm no expert so if someone else has an expert opinion I would listen to them but if you are going to strip it anyway I would try a satin coat first. You would want to sand the finish you have so it will adhere. If you're not happy with the result you can always go back to your first plan and strip.


Thank you, I will definitely try to remember that! (Be 3-5 years before I tackle that table, unfortunately)


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

Sooooo....let me put this all together, as far as building the dining table.

I would be better off (less warping/twisting) if I went with wider board? How wide would I need to go? I'm thinking about 44ish" for the total width of the table. (The room is about 11x11 but DH doesn't want a square table, and thinks he would want a matching table for use as a sideboard) I'm leaning toward 6-7' long, I think 8' may be "too" long.

If I had Lowe's cut most of the wood, could I get away with just using a jigsaw, miter saw, circle saw, drill and sanders? I don't have a Kreg jig, but I can get one. Would modifying the legs to be put on with carriage bolts keep it sturdy?

And could/should I fill the gaps created by the round edges with wood putty or would that just be tacky and I should just keep the ridges?


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## 1acre (Apr 7, 2016)

TO me, this is blotchy. 












Amilo said:


> Sooooo....let me put this all together, as far as building the dining table.
> 
> I would be better off (less warping/twisting) if I went with wider board? How wide would I need to go? I'm thinking about 44ish" for the total width of the table. (The room is about 11x11 but DH doesn't want a square table, and thinks he would want a matching table for use as a sideboard) I'm leaning toward 6-7' long, I think 8' may be "too" long.
> 
> ...


If planning to stain, filling with wood putty would look awful. I'd get rid of the rounded edges. But, I have the tools to do so. Another option would be to go to lumber yard specializing in lumber for cabinet makers/wood workers/fine furniture, pick out your rough lumber and have them do the milling for you. Call and make sure they can do the same day if you have a significant trip to make. 

I'd personally cut the top of the legs to accept the cross members. Then glue and bolt in if you want. Glue + pressure while curing + some screws would more than be enough. and this will look better and be significantly stronger. With a 44" table, if you can get it through the door and need to disassemble, going with carriage bolts will be fine.


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

I've seen several videos on YouTube for building a table with basic tools. You ought to watch some. That would probably be more helpful than trying to write out a process on here. After you've watched some videos you could come back with any questions you have.


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## djhb20 (Jun 10, 2015)

Another option - if you are stuck - is to buy 1 by of milled boards (pine/poplar/whatever you can get at HD/Lowes) and glue them up. If you can find fairly straight boards, that'll work fine and without the issues of construction grade lumber. It'll cost more (the wood) but require way less tooling. You just need to worry about lining up the board salon the width, as you can always trim the lengths with your circ saw after they are glued up.


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

Amilo, If you do wish to advance your woodworking--go buy a thickness planer---

I've built a lot of furniture out of pine construction lumber, using only a DeWalt thickness planer , a table saw ,router and a few small power tools.---

The ability to smooth out and change the thickness of a common bit of construction lumber will amaze you.
Insetting marble or granite tiles can add some color interest to the project--

4x4 fir posts are available at the Home Depot and make for nice looking legs.

Drilling and inserting walnut dowels can add the illusion of a pegged joint.

With proper sanding, pine can take a stain and finish quite nicely.

Good luck---go buy that planer--Mike---


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## jdonhowe (Jul 25, 2014)

Okay, a little late to the party, but that won't keep me from putting in my 2 cents!
First, I agree that for your plan you need to get rid of the rounded edges of 2x4's. Given the equipment you already have, the best and fastest way would be to dig out your table saw. Neither your circular or jig saw are going to be of much use for that.

Sure, a planer and jointer would be great, and Dewalt makes some nice planers. A reasonable alternative would be to check on CL for other brands- not as powerful or well finished as the Dewalts, but certianly adequate for your needs- a used Delta suits my needs fine.

Have you considered buying a hand plane? You can get an adequate one fairly inexpensively, and use it to joint the edges and smooth the table top after it's assembled. It might not be perfect, but hey, it's rustic, right? It would be a physical workout, but by teh end you'd be a real pro at planing, and I think it's the cheapest alternative. You'd need means of sharpening the blade- search "scary sharp" for an inexpensive method. 

If it's not already in your plans, one thing which might help reduce twisting and warping would be to use 2x4 cross members running perpendicular to the 2x4's on the table top, to which they are securely fastened with screws. Don't bother with a Kreg jig (says the man who's never used one!).

I've never been able to stain softwoods very well, and I don't like how satin accentuates the grain pattern, grotesquely, IMO. Instead of stain, I've had success using dyes. Dyes give the wood a nice color of your choice, give a much more even grain pattern, and are very forgiving of misakes. I like Transtint dyes- a bottle is more expensive than a can of stain, but it will last for a very long time- a little goes a long way. I highly recommend using dyes, especially on softwoods.

Good luck with your project!


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

1acre said:


> TO me, this is blotchy.
> 
> If planning to stain, filling with wood putty would look awful. I'd get rid of the rounded edges. But, I have the tools to do so. Another option would be to go to lumber yard specializing in lumber for cabinet makers/wood workers/fine furniture, pick out your rough lumber and have them do the milling for you. Call and make sure they can do the same day if you have a significant trip to make.
> 
> I'd personally cut the top of the legs to accept the cross members. Then glue and bolt in if you want. Glue + pressure while curing + some screws would more than be enough. and this will look better and be significantly stronger. With a 44" table, if you can get it through the door and need to disassemble, going with carriage bolts will be fine.


I haven't found a place in internet searches, but I'm not sure I'm searching correctly. I did find some thread about my area but the wood stores seem to be a few hours away. (Does Woodcraft do milling? There's one about 1.5 hours away)



michaelpugh said:


> I've seen several videos on YouTube for building a table with basic tools. You ought to watch some. That would probably be more helpful than trying to write out a process on here. After you've watched some videos you could come back with any questions you have.


I've watched quite a few, and I'm pretty sure I should be good. I did find a place about 1.5 hours away where I can go use a planer and a jointer, but I can't take kids in, and I don't have anyone to watch them while I go that far away.



djhb20 said:


> Another option - if you are stuck - is to buy 1 by of milled boards (pine/poplar/whatever you can get at HD/Lowes) and glue them up. If you can find fairly straight boards, that'll work fine and without the issues of construction grade lumber. It'll cost more (the wood) but require way less tooling. You just need to worry about lining up the board salon the width, as you can always trim the lengths with your circ saw after they are glued up.


I'll go look at Lowe's/HD and see if that's something that might be a better option.



mikeswoods said:


> Amilo, If you do wish to advance your woodworking--go buy a thickness planer---
> 
> I've built a lot of furniture out of pine construction lumber, using only a DeWalt thickness planer , a table saw ,router and a few small power tools.---
> 
> ...


I'm still not sure I have a good grasp on what exactly a planer and jointer would do. If I'm understanding correctly, they can put the sharp edges on wood, and even up rough spots? I watched a YouTube where a guy put a crooked, warped board in the machines and it eventually came out straight and pretty LOL. But I read an article that said I need both to put the edges on, so I am still a bit confused.

I'm don't really want to invest in a planer if all I would use it for is the table. I already know it isn't necessary for the beds I plan to build in 6 months or so, and after that most of my stuff will be like flower pots and maybe a fancy trellis or two, and then practical stuff for the critters when we are back on our property.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

jdonhowe said:


> Okay, a little late to the party, but that won't keep me from putting in my 2 cents!
> First, I agree that for your plan you need to get rid of the rounded edges of 2x4's. Given the equipment you already have, the best and fastest way would be to dig out your table saw. Neither your circular or jig saw are going to be of much use for that.
> 
> Sure, a planer and jointer would be great, and Dewalt makes some nice planers. A reasonable alternative would be to check on CL for other brands- not as powerful or well finished as the Dewalts, but certianly adequate for your needs- a used Delta suits my needs fine.
> ...


I've checked CL but there isn't much there. (There's a Craftsman that gets terrible reviews that the CL guy wants triple from it clearanced out at) and then some beyond my price range. I can dig out the table saw, I guess. Supposed to rain through next Thursday, I REALLY miss my shed/workshop. Never used dyes, I will definitely check them out!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You don't need either!*

For your project all you need is a saw that will remove the rounded edges. This can be your table saw or a newer, better one. 
I made this board straightening jig for my table saw:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/board-straightening-jig-table-saw-16999/

OR you can use a track saw. This is the best deal on a track saw I am aware of:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/t25552?utm_campaign=zPage






You can also make a straight edge guide for sawing straight edges using a circular saw:





For your information a jointer will make a flat surface or a square, straight edge on a board. This would remove your rounded edges, but it will take several/many passes over the cutters AND it's a rather long and heavy piece of equipment.

A planer aka, thickness planer makes a board a uniform thickness along it's length. You still need a flat surface on the bottom to start with from the jointer IF it's not flat already.

Jointing and gluing boards with good results is a simple woodworking project, BUT you must start with straight and square edges or the glue bond will not be uniform and it will fail. :frown2:


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## 1acre (Apr 7, 2016)

@Amilo, where are you located? We can help you find a lumber yard. Woodcraft sells boards, it will be a bit more expensive than a lumber yard probably. I avoid the big box stores for "S4S" lumber, as sometimes the stud pile looks better than what they are offering. 

Whenever I rip studs, I always joint 2 edges. I don't think I would try ripping a stud without doing that first.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

I'm in Williamsburg, VA. Time to show my ignorance....what is S4S?


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

Sorry hit send too soon. I've talked to Waterfront (they don't have the size) and Yukon (looking at around 450 just for the top of the table, more than I want to spend) so I bought 2x10s at Lowe's and had everything cut except the 4x4s for the legs, hoping my miter can handle those.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*lumber....*

Lumber is of two types, hardwood and softwood. Box stores will carry construction lumber, Spruce, Pine, Fir, etc. all softwoods. They may also have a small amount of Oak, Cedar or Poplar. Lumber mills carry all types, but some concentrate on hardwoods, Oak, Maple, Walnut, Cherry and some exotics/imports.

Lumber from the box store is S4S or Surfaced 4 Sides. However, it will probably have the the "dreaded" rounded edges. You can get it from the mill, S4S OR rough sawn. Then you have to joint and plane it in your shop to get it S4S. For that you need a jointer and a thickness planer.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

woodnthings said:


> Lumber is of two types, hardwood and softwood. Box stores will carry construction lumber, Spruce, Pine, Fir, etc. all softwoods. They may also have a small amount of Oak, Cedar or Poplar. Lumber mills carry all types, but some concentrate on hardwoods, Oak, Maple, Walnut, Cherry and some exotics/imports.
> 
> Lumber from the box store is S4S or Surfaced 4 Sides. However, it will probably have the the "dreaded" rounded edges. You can get it from the mill, S4S OR rough sawn. Then you have to joint and plane it in your shop to get it S4S. For that you need a jointer and a thickness planer.


That makes sense, THANK YOU! An awesome guy in the lumber dept helped me lay it out on the floor (the 2x10s) and I'm ok with the little ridge that was left without the squared sides. Yukon *might* have enough oak for me to do the table top, at about $70/board (I need 5) and then jointing/planing them would be another $60. Waterfront said they had nothing 2" thick (I didn't think to tell him I could go with different widths, I just asked about 2x10s)

I really liked some premade panels Lowe's had, and I thought about the 1x oak board they had, but the guy that was helping me and I thought 1x wasn't really thick enough for the tabletop.

Now to figure out where I'm putting this thing together, darn rain.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

Any thoughts on whether I should finish before or after I put it together? I got gel stain, wood conditioner, and poly, I've done a test board with wood conditioner and stain to pick my color. (Couldn't find the TransTint without going to Virginia Beach, so Mixwax won the draw. Also, gel stain is WEIRD, but I think I figured it out!)

Basing the table off the Lowe's plans (made some modifications, hopefully I figured the measurements correctly. Got the pocket hole jig thingie (Kreg) and I'm using 2x4 for the "base" of the top, 4x4s for the legs. The base of the top will be a full rectangle from 2x4s, they will not meet the legs on either side like in the plans. My legs will go on the inside corners of the rectangles with carriage bolts, so I can remove them for moving. My planks are 2x10s.

Lowe's plans call for staining/poly'ing the planks before assembly, but most other sites I look at for plans do the finishing once it's built. Is there an advantage to either method? My whole table will be one color, not two like Lowe's did.


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## michaelpugh (Dec 31, 2013)

Amilo said:


> Any thoughts on whether I should finish before or after I put it together? I got gel stain, wood conditioner, and poly, I've done a test board with wood conditioner and stain to pick my color. (Couldn't find the TransTint without going to Virginia Beach, so Mixwax won the draw. Also, gel stain is WEIRD, but I think I figured it out!) Basing the table off the Lowe's plans (made some modifications, hopefully I figured the measurements correctly. Got the pocket hole jig thingie (Kreg) and I'm using 2x4 for the "base" of the top, 4x4s for the legs. The base of the top will be a full rectangle from 2x4s, they will not meet the legs on either side like in the plans. My legs will go on the inside corners of the rectangles with carriage bolts, so I can remove them for moving. My planks are 2x10s. Lowe's plans call for staining/poly'ing the planks before assembly, but most other sites I look at for plans do the finishing once it's built. Is there an advantage to either method? My whole table will be one color, not two like Lowe's did.


 It's not a bad idea to finish the top in separate boards if they're not being glued up into a panel. If you poly after assembly when the wood moves (and it will) the poly that went between the boards will show up and crack. We have some tables that have done it. Doesn't look terrible but doesn't look great either.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

michaelpugh said:


> It's not a bad idea to finish the top in separate boards if they're not being glued up into a panel. If you poly after assembly when the wood moves (and it will) the poly that went between the boards will show up and crack. We have some tables that have done it. Doesn't look terrible but doesn't look great either.
> 
> View attachment 235193
> 
> ...



Oooo, thanks! Don't want that. Finish them first it is!


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

Really glad you guys talked me out of 2x4s, called myself looking over the 2 I did buy (for under the table top) well, but when I went to sand them I discovered they're horrible. Not twisted, just rutted from the saw/planer/whatever is used to cut them. Fine for my project, but really glad I didn't have to dig through the stack to try to find enough "pretty" ones for a table LOL. The 2x10s are looking pretty nice, if I had more time I could probably get them to square corners with just the sander, as I've done it accidentally while prepping them.

Weather is really wreaking havoc on me, not sure I will have it done before the husband gets home in a week, but if not, a friend has volunteered the garage in their vacant rental home for me to hide it to finish.


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## DustySaw (Aug 6, 2011)

A planer like a DW735 will put a nice finish on the 2x4s and will ensure that they are the same thickness. Taking out warps and twists is a job for a jointer which can also put a nice finish on the wood. If you like the look of finished pine and can live with the softness, I say GO FOR IT.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

I would suggest trying some 2x6s. Much easier to work with than 2x4s. Just have to make sure they are straight. Here are some pics of the ones I have made. I have hundreds more of these pics if you would like to see them. 

I started with a Porter Cable 12&1/2" planer I paid $225 for at Lowe's. I now have a 20" wide but need a 24" wide. 

I plane the boards, then cut on the table saw, then glue up then plane again before sanding. Let me know if you have any questions. Making stuff with construction or #2 grade wood is possible.


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## Amilo (Apr 27, 2016)

VIFmike said:


> I would suggest trying some 2x6s. Much easier to work with than 2x4s. Just have to make sure they are straight. Here are some pics of the ones I have made. I have hundreds more of these pics if you would like to see them.
> 
> I started with a Porter Cable 12&1/2" planer I paid $225 for at Lowe's. I now have a 20" wide but need a 24" wide.
> 
> I plane the boards, then cut on the table saw, then glue up then plane again before sanding. Let me know if you have any questions. Making stuff with construction or #2 grade wood is possible.


Those are really pretty Mike!

I mostly got my table done before hubby got home. He loves it...me, I'm pissy cuz the rain made some of my previously flat boards not so flat. But, we're going to use it for a while, and once we're settled, we'll build a prettier one (and a smaller one, this one turned out bigger than I thought it would!). We love the color (thanks Michaelpugh), I didn't love the stain at all (Minwax, the water-based that they add color to)...it might be easier with a 2nd person wiping it off immediately after one paints it on. He doesn't love the legs, he wants more decorative legs (router is already packed and I'm not very experienced with it), so when we build another, we'll do prettier legs. He loves the way the boards look, especially the knot holes. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for all the advice, I'm really glad you guys talked me into going with wider boards.


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## djhb20 (Jun 10, 2015)

Looks pretty damn good. Congrats!


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