# Walnut Table



## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

*“Before Getting Into Woodworking, I Thought Owning A Boat Was The Only Hole You Threw Money Into.”*

The wife and I had custom built home done for us three years ago. We blew our budget on all the usual things, but ran out of money when it came time to doing the dining room table. Instead we had opted for a nice 4’x8’ sheet of birch plywood set on some Ikea legs. It fit with the modern design of the house and was fully functional, but it had that Ikea (cheap) look in a custom home. 








As we have been able to afford it, our style has evolved into a contemporary rocky mountain theme. We had always thought a beautiful walnut slab table would be the way to go. We are fortunate to live near Goby Walnut and Western Hardwoods in Portland, OR. In the past year, I’ve bought a few small pieces of walnut for some custom side tables and a floating shelf. Their walnut collection really inspired me to take the leap of doing a large table once we felt we could afford it. A few months ago, my wife and I stopped by Goby, just to look around and talk about slabs. I knew that anything I wanted would take at least four to six months before it was ready to be worked on. In the pacific northwest it typically takes a year, per inch of thickness for a slab to dry. Most table slabs are 12/4, so anything I wanted had to be cut at least a year prior and then would be in the kiln close to six months. While we were wandering around, we met the owner Art Blumenkron who asked us what we were looking for. I told him something in the 48” x 96” range would work out just fine and that we had flexibility in the size. I also said I wanted something highly figured and unique. He thought for a moment and said that they had a slab that had been stored in a barn for seven years that might just what we were looking for. It was dry and ready to go. Would I like to look at it he asked? Of course both my wife and I chimed in. When we saw the slab we were taken aback by how amazing it was and knew this had to be ours. I also knew that something this gorgeous would command top dollar and while our budget was significant, this slab would more than likely shatter it. Art went back to his office, did some calculations and then gave us the price. It was an outstanding deal, but still about 10% more than the top of my budget. I could just about feel my wife pick pocketing my wallet to toss our credit card at Art like a Ninja warrior using a throwing star, when I winced at his offer... With just a little further negotiation the three of us came to a price that worked for everyone and we got a slab of our dreams. 








The slab was too big to fit in the back of our pickup, so delivery would have to wait. Work, two feet of snow an ice storm that knocked out the power for over three days, and waiting for a spell of dry weather to keep the slab from being soaked on the hour long drive home meant we waited nearly three weeks. Onto the trailer it went and then with the help of four strong backed guys, we moved all 500 pounds onto it’s makeshift work bench that had a packing quilt placed on it to protect the slab. Remember the packing quilt because it comes up in the epoxy section.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

*“Deficit Spending And The Point Of No Return.”*

Shortly after the arrival our future table, the wife looks at me and says “Those Ikea dining chairs won’t work with wood this beautiful. We need to look for something that will go with the table and the rest of the house” Now I love my wife and I’m willing to admit that there are very few times that she is wrong. This was certainly no exception. “What do you have in mind sweetie?” I asked. “Something high backed, large and comfortable” was her response. Hello google! I was off on my search. The chairs we both liked had a bit of a Spanish influence with turned legs, a beautiful upholstered back and glove leather seat. The armchairs went for $2,400. each!!! 








And we only needed eight! Keep searching became my mantra as I spent many late night hours looking online. The best chairs we found that would come close to doing the table justice started at $500 each. For that kind of money it should have steering wheel coming at me and not just a fork and spoon. Multiple trips to Portland resulted in even greater frustration. Most all the new chairs were pieces of junk that our teenagers would destroy before they got done with desert. At one point the wife asked if I had checked on Craigslist. I had, but completely struck out on anything in our motif. I did a four state search and if I saw anything with good bones, there were only six of them and not eight. Keep in mind this table will seat ten comfortably and I was hoping not have to get the fold up camp chairs out of the garage if we had a larger gathering for dinner. One day there was a CL ad for ten chairs, eight armed and two sides. Style was just what we were looking for as long as we could refinish and reupholster them. They also happened to be located only 45 minutes away. I called immediately and set up an appointment for two hours later.









We got the chairs for $50 each and now had to pick out fabric and leather. How hard could that be? Well for the fabric backs we looked at hundreds of different patterns and found only one that will work. Oh we found probably 8-10 total, but at upwards of $100 per yard, that wasn’t going to happen. The fabric we settled on is only $35 per yard. I’m sure that is quite reasonable I say with tongue planted firmly in my cheek. We also found some gorgeous leather from Italy that was on sale for $4.00 per foot for the seats. Both the fabric and the leather are beautiful and work well together. Bottom line when the chairs get done, we won’t have to replace any rugs, repaint walls, change artwork or get rid of any of our other furniture. It should all fit together rather well – I hope. FWIW – the chairs got stripped of their blue lacquer paint and a distressed walnut stain was applied. On top of this, Waterlox Original was used which is the same finish as the table.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

*“There’s too much confusion. I can’t get no relief.” – Jimi Hendrix*

We blew the budget on the wood, so paying a pro to turn it into a table was out of the question. What the heck do I know about refinishing a several thousand dollar slab of walnut? I now have a slab of wood that I would either turn into an heirloom piece or the most expensive pile of kindling I’ve ever made. What was I thinking? I have to get over these champagne tastes on a beer budget before I give myself either a coronary or my head explodes. I mean I’m used to overcoming challenges in my chosen profession, but I’m as adept at woodworking as I am speaking Mandarin. Thank goodness for the internet and the discovery of Woodworkingtalk. Looking around I saw that there is a forum here for refinishing. “Search” is a newbie’s best friend and this is where I lurked for a while before my confusion made my head hurt and I made my first post. Thank you to all of you who helped with your advice particularly to Bentwood, Dominick and especially Chemmy.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

*“The Good Book of Chemmy.”*

This gentleman is the Google of refinishing. If I have a question then I PM Chemmy. The breadth of his knowledge is amazing. His techniques are at times complex and thought provoking. On more than one occasion – I’ve found myself lost as to what he was telling me, but learning this way works for me. What I love is how high he sets the bar and I know if I do as he says, my results though they will not be as good as his, will be far superior to anything I could have achieved on my own. 
I started on the bottom side. It had not been run through the planer at Goby, so I figured this was the perfect place to work on my sanding technique. It had a lot of saw kerfs that needed to be smoothed so I got a lot of practice. The belt sander did a great job, but on a 60” x 105” slab it was a lengthy process and one where I went through numerous belts. 








Then it was on to half sheet Bosch sander and going through the grades of paper starting at 60 and finishing with 220 grit. Once I got out all the sanding marks, I was ready to rout out recesses for the steel legs and plate steel butterflies.


















The steel butterflies tie in nicely with the powder coated legs and are a bit unconventional.





























In our home we have a lot of custom steel work both inside and out, so the steel legs also fit. 










For the finish, I went with a 1:1 dewaxed shellac to turpines solution as per Chemmy’s instructions. Four coats of Waterlox gloss and a finish coat of Waterlox traditional and the table was allowed to cure for one week before flipping it over.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

*“There Are No Mistakes, Only Solutions.” – Yeah, right!*

Whoever came up with that must have been perfect or never tried to fill a large crack with a gallon of clear epoxy. So before myself and four others flipped the table, I taped off the bottom with wax paper and painters tape.










I’m pretty logical and since I know that poo flows downhill then I figured that a 500 lb slab would press into the workbench and not let the epoxy flow out the sides. That was the first of my big mistakes. The second was to use a fast curing epoxy resin. I did this because the manufacture states that this is the clearest curing of all their epoxies. I wanted clear because the crack was large enough that guests will be able to look through it and see their feet. Also I left some of the bark in the crack and wanted to show that off. I figured if I kept my garage at a balmy 55F then the cure time would slow down and there would be a lot less bubbles especially if I did multiple ½” pours. My first pour seemed endless. I kept pouring more and more epoxy into the crack and it just disappeared. Remember this slab weighs as much as a Toyota Prius, so it wasn’t like I could lift it up and check the underside. The more I poured the warmer the epoxy got as it cured. When epoxy cures too fast – it off gasses. This means that I had to stand over the crack with a piece of wire popping the bubbles as they formed in the resin. It was like playing whack the weasel for an hour and a half. A bubble would bloat it’s way to the surface at one end of the crack – pop. Another one would form at the other end – pop! I got most of them, but missed some and those will stay with the table until it becomes kindling for one of my grand children.










This one got away from me during the curing process and bubbled really badly. Using the Dremel, I was able to get out all the bubbles and sand it smooth. In the hole, I placed a nearly petrified walnut half that I had found in the large crack. To that I added new epoxy. It's kind of a cool, but subtle detail that looks better than just a straight pour of epoxy.










Once the final layer had a few days to cure, I got the crew to flip the table again. Before I could do that though, I had to take a large crowbar and break the epoxy between a packing quilt and the plywood workbench top. Then I had to peel off the resin soaked quilt from the underside of the slab. A few hours spent grinding away with the belt sander, another hour to go through all the grits with the half sheet sander and the troubled areas were ready to be recoated. Also the epoxy got a few wet sandings with 400 and 600 to clear up any imperfections. The first coat of varnish was applied over the 1:1 shellac / turpines solution today. One more coat of varnish and I hope to be ready to flip it finish sand and apply the first coats of Waterlox Gloss this weekend.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Lil heads up. To keep future coats of epoxy from bubbling, use a hand held propane torch to warm up the fresh poured epoxy. Bubbles come to the surface.
It's on the "envirotex lite" epoxy website as a method. Careful , don't lay the heat to it or surrounding surfaces too long.

This is turning out fabulously.
Oh, and thanks for incorporating these together and doing this story...Love It!


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

if you don't mind me asking, approximately what did this table cost you in total? 

i've thinking of taking something like this on a smaller scale but am having trouble getting an accurate cost of production (something i'd like a sense of before delving in - once you're in you know).


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

i only got 2 words for ya ....................

ITS BEAUTIFUL !


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## barnabaas (Feb 16, 2012)

Looks freaking great man! Show off the final pic with the kitchen when your all set. All that hard work is def. paying off. I wish we would've just gotten walnut wood but like you, finding a price that works for you with wood like this isn't always the easiest process. Looks amazing! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I agree with bob sacamono, it is beautiful.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks. It's nice to know that it's not just us who think the wood is beautiful.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

gideon said:


> if you don't mind me asking, approximately what did this table cost you in total?
> 
> i've thinking of taking something like this on a smaller scale but am having trouble getting an accurate cost of production (something i'd like a sense of before delving in - once you're in you know).


At Goby the prices are based on size and uniqueness of the wood. Before discounts this slab was priced at around $5,000. I bought another piece of 12/4 walnut for a stretcher to go between the legs for $60. Steel, fabrication and powder coating another $500. Epoxy - $100. Finishing products including sandpaper $200 or so. New chairs, leather, fabric, etc... - unknown.

Bottom line - I've looked at buying just a table completely finished and haven't found one with as much figure or character for anything less than $12 - $15 K. My whole project will cost far, far less.


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## mackem (May 20, 2007)

Fantastic work JB, it's going to look even better when
you have it all set up with the chairs around. :yes:
I also noticed that you must have a very enviable
view from your home, day or night.  Any chance
of a few pics of it? :smile:


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## dbales (Jun 21, 2011)

I wish I had a view like that from my shop. Hell I wish I had a shop! Lol. Great slab, very unique, it'll look great once you finish it. I agree, you should take the same picture as the first picture with the new table there.


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## MacDuffee (Jan 29, 2012)

What a great story teller and awesome pics! Love the table and your view:thumbsup:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Looking great. I agree with the others. Great read.
:thumbsup:


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## Warnock (Apr 4, 2011)

Wow. Absolutely beautiful.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

*"Mama Said There'd Be Days Like This" - Van Morrison*

I hate when things go really T.U. and are hard to correct. The wife and I had finally settled on the fabric for the backs of our chairs. It was a very unique red in a very plush chenille. We had looked at hundreds of different patterns, weaves, colors and none worked as well as this. We had been assured that there was plenty of it from a company in El Paso earlier in the week. So credit card in hand I called to place the order. "Oh I'm so sorry there is only nine yards left." was the answer. In absolute disbelief I hung up and started cursing like a drunken sailor. We had been looking for probably a month almost daily and got beaten to the punch by a restaurant who bought up nearly the whole batch. I know, you are saying "Calm down JB. Just order more." Well the mill won't be making any for at least six months. Kind of tough to sit in chairs without backs. So this weekends project is to find 15 yards of fabric that will take the place of something we had fallen in love with.

One other side note - I've noticed that the underside of the table that I had finished has really gone amber. It's kind of taken over the wood color, so I need to figure out what happened so that I don't make the same mistake on the top.

Lastly - I didn't get the winning Mega ticket last night.

"Mama said there'd be days like this."


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

mackem said:


> Fantastic work JB, it's going to look even better when
> you have it all set up with the chairs around. :yes:
> I also noticed that you must have a very enviable
> view from your home, day or night.  Any chance
> of a few pics of it? :smile:












Here is one of the house at night.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Contemporary homes are hell to furnish out if you want to do something above and beyond Ikea. Choices are minimal and expensive...(unless you can fabricate your own stuff)
I built mine and it's so contemporary that wood is almost out of place in it, even though the exterior is vertical and horizontal 6"oc cedar. It can be incorporated, but most is just cheesy stuff, that would fit fine in most standard modern homes. But NOT Contemporary.
It's my fault. I'm an Architect by trade, and when I bought this 1939 summer cottage, and went to work, tearing every wall to shreds and adding 900sq ft to her, I never lifted a pencil to draw plans and went by gut feel. Well the gut feel worked, but next was the chore of furnishing.

JB , your not alone. We are going through the dining room fiasco as I type this, and going about it assbackwards. We have the chairs, needing redone, and next it is time to go for the table. Budget is tight as are contracts to do Architectural work these days...nobody is building in Chi-town. I think a good slab table with unique edge like you have will be the way we roll as well, but I'm working with hollow log wood that I find very inexpensive. I have one now that I'm playing with but if someone likes it more than I, It's sold if the persons wallet is fat enough...and on to the next.

Good work, JB. 
I'm awaiting pictures of the table set up in your dining area.


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## mackem (May 20, 2007)

*WOWEE! What a sight to behold.*

Oh boy! JB, I am one very envious admirer indeed. :yes:
I would love to live with a view like that. Many thanks
for the picture. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

i noticed 2 holes on the leg ( sunlight shining thru ) -- is that for a bolt-on stretcher ?


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I appreciate the recognition JB. 
Your slab table is gorgeous not sure if I really helped you, but thanks. You pulled off those steel bowties as if it was wood. Nice touch. 
The finish is striking. Nice job working with that epoxy, and that walnut in the check is a nice touch. 
Can't wait to see it set up up in your beautiful home. Thanks for sharing.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

mackem said:


> Oh boy! JB, I am one very envious admirer indeed. :yes:
> I would love to live with a view like that. Many thanks
> for the picture. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks. Everyday we get to see something different. The last three days the rain has been falling sideways and we could rarely see more than 100 yards. The house was kind of a pita to build. There were some major issues to overcome to get that view. The drain field is 1/4 mile away. The well is at the beginning of the driveway 1/2 mile opposite of the drain field and the power line had to be trenched 6,000'. Since this is on a hillside - i'm standing on top of a 14' retaining wall that is 180' long. All in all though we love it.
The house is modern on the exterior, but other than having as many windows as our engineer would allow us, we have tried to make it really comfortable on the inside. The exterior was done in sheet metal because of wildfire danger and that effected the design concept. We have no wood at all on the exterior including doors. We call it the Mine Shack because it reminds us of silver mine buildings in Colorado.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

bob sacamano said:


> i noticed 2 holes on the leg ( sunlight shining thru ) -- is that for a bolt-on stretcher ?


Exactly Bob. The piece that I'm using was originally going to be used as a gun stock. It's highly figured and almost a shame to place beneath the table where it won't be seen.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Dominick said:


> I appreciate the recognition JB.
> Your slab table is gorgeous not sure if I really helped you, but thanks. You pulled off those steel bowties as if it was wood. Nice touch.
> The finish is striking. Nice job working with that epoxy, and that walnut in the check is a nice touch.
> Can't wait to see it set up up in your beautiful home. Thanks for sharing.


Thanks Dominick and you are welcome. Keep in mind - this is my story and I get to tell it the way I want to. LOL

Kind of having to go back to the drawing board for a bit because of the finish. I'm really unhappy with how amber the Waterlox turned the underside. I've been consulting with Chemmy and going to have it sprayed. The wood is so beautiful that I really want the natural colors to pop and not mask them at all. My other walnut side tables look great with urethane, but I'm not happy with certain characteristics that urethane offers. At this point with my work schedule and learning curve, it may not make it into the house for several weeks.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

I need to make a correction concerning one of my procedures. 

I stated that Chemmy had advised that I mix unwaxed shellac 1:1 with turpines. He didn't say that and I didn't do it. I believe it was he who told me to mix the shellac 1:1 with alcohol - which is what I did. My first cleaning after sanding to prep the surface was done with turpines.

I don't like it when I make a mistake and it in turn reflects poorly on someone who wasn't responsible.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

JB97031 said:


> I need to make a correction concerning one of my procedures.
> 
> I stated that Chemmy had advised that I mix unwaxed shellac 1:1 with turpines. He didn't say that and I didn't do it. I believe it was he who told me to mix the shellac 1:1 with alcohol - which is what I did. My first cleaning after sanding to prep the surface was done with turpines.
> 
> I don't like it when I make a mistake and it in turn reflects poorly on someone who wasn't responsible.


Hi Jock, not a problem, i'm more concerned with the top than bottom anyway, as we talk i'll make sure there is complete and utter understanding of all the steps and processes were to use ok? :yes:


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Well I'm finally back. Work got in the way for over a month and I had no time to even look at the table top, much less think about it. 

This weekend will get the finish sanding done and then hopefully next weekend will allow for the finish to be applied. As mentioned in an earlier post I decided to go with Chemmy's suggestion and have the table sprayed with a urethane from Delta Labs. With any luck the table will finally move out of the garage and into the dining room by the first of June. Photos to follow.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Chemmy's got it together in the finish dep't.
I would bow to his expertise there.

I just finished 2 book matched pieces of Walnut for a small kitchen table (~3' x 6') with some similarly wild grain, and bark on.
I used an epoxy finish for the durability of a bar top in a biker bar. It seems to have a darkening effect above what polyurethanes do. Thus far I'm thrilled with it, and I don't think this stuff will yellow much over time.
Many don't like it for it's plasticy look.I agree and if it is put on too thick it takes that look on. I needed a high gloss look with the ultra modern design of my house.

Can't wait to see your finished product.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

aardvark said:


> Chemmy's got it together in the finish dep't.
> I would bow to his expertise there.
> 
> I just finished 2 book matched pieces of Walnut for a small kitchen table (~3' x 6') with some similarly wild grain, and bark on.
> ...


I did an epoxy finish on two other small walnut slab tables in my house. I found they darkened the wood too much and I lost a lot of the figuring. I ended up being so unhappy with the results that I sanded both down and coated them in urethane. All the tones and figure came to life. After that I can't say that I'm a fan of epoxy for anything where it's important to show off the wood. Now a friend stained OSB and used epoxy and it's looks amazing!


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## SawdusttillSunset (Mar 15, 2012)

Wow! That is one Beautiful slab of walnut! Makes for a Great Table! Nice job, and thanks for sharing!


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

JB.
I actually did a few tests before doing this. I wanted dark, to almost a black effect. I didn't get that, and it's lighter, yet the polyurethanes were far too light (and we're talking clear finishes here), but the grain sure isn't hidden. It stands out fantastically.
I've got 3 + kinds of grain going on. Heartwood which is coco brown. As you move out, you get a blackening with curly action going on, and the outer edge wood is near yellowish next to the bark.
Nothing subdued about this grain.
Worst part is the slow drying time means there is a chance of some dust particles. Not many but a few. I'm 6 hours into my 2nd and final coat, and it's tacked up to where dust is not going to be an issue soon. It's not touchable, but the surface is skinning. It can't be repaired anymore (I was touching it up for the first 3 hours)
Now I've seen that you can take the surface and turn it satin with a few tricks, but I'm after a very hi gloss, and a later car wax finish, just like a car.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

I'm glad for you that it's working. Mine went way dark. Not sure why since my friends OSB top didn't seem to darken anywhere near what happened to me. FWIW- I used System 3 Mirror coat.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Certain cuts of walnut that look dark to begin with may go 4 or 5 paint , grey scale shades (up the scale of 1-10 ...1 = no change...10 = black) when clearcoated.
Mine went up about 5, and I was hoping for 6 or 7, but I'm good with it.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Well after months of this table languishing in the garage because of work, life etc... it was finally completed yesterday. It took five us to move it the 50' from the garage to the dining room. Thank goodness for French doors or else the table never would have made inside.

Here are some pictures of it in it's new home.


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## Matt tennessen (Jan 23, 2011)

Thanks for the update, it looks fantastic! I wondering about this one just a few days ago too.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Beautiful job JB. The finish looks really nice and the figure shows deeply. Let's see pics of the base and how you attached it to the top. 
Thumbs up.


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## Fudwrecker (Jan 27, 2011)

Wow
that is beyond words
absolutley incredible


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

That turned out gorgeous! For all the effort you will have a beautiful, unique family heirloom treasure to enjoy and pass down. Well done.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks guys, glad you like it. The chairs should be done by next week, so I'll have truly finished photos then. Dominick - I'll get some shots of the base tonight. There is so much glass in the room that I'll really need to light the base to show it at its best. The figure in the stretcher bar is as nice as the table.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

LOOKS GREAT JB:thumbsup::thumbsup:. Glad my build wasn't as heavy as yours......I'd thought we were moving a PIANO....OH my back.

Finish looks deep. Fits your home beautifully.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Looks nice, and the setting works.
It must weight 500+ lbs, just in wood. Hope your floor structure is adequate (us architects think like that). If you need calcs done to see if that will cause a floor sag, I can work em up for you and suggest strengthening techniques as well.

Beautiful wood!


Dom. Got mine inside today as well.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

aardvark said:


> Looks nice, and the setting works.
> It must weight 500+ lbs, just in wood. Hope your floor structure is adequate (us architects think like that). If you need calcs done to see if that will cause a floor sag, I can work em up for you and suggest strengthening techniques as well.
> 
> Beautiful wood!
> ...


Thanks. The slab and base weigh about 600 lbs. The floor is 2" of concrete on top of 12" TJI's spaced every 16". Should work for the load.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

What is the span of the TJI's? 
Is their in slab heat (which is a usual reason for running conc over a wood floor)?
Is the concrete a light weight aggregate mix (which has foam in it)?

Actually 600 lbs isn't bad, but it's the point loads of the legs, like high heels on a fat woman walking across a lawn...she sinks in..


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

aardvark said:


> What is the span of the TJI's?
> Is their in slab heat (which is a usual reason for running conc over a wood floor)?
> Is the concrete a light weight aggregate mix (which has foam in it)?
> 
> Actually 600 lbs isn't bad, but it's the point loads of the legs, like high heels on a fat woman walking across a lawn...she sinks in..


14' span and there is radiant heating, but no foam in the concrete. Went with a standard mix for durability. Engineer factored that in. Without going back to the blue prints, I believe the TJI's run the same direction as the table not that matters a whole lot as the legs are 30" wide.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Yer good.

Don't turn it the opposite way, or your running 300lbs point load in-between the 16" o.c. floor joists and it could stress crack the concrete. BE SURE those legs are spanning over a few TJI's.

Floor systems are designed for 40lbs per sq. ft. live load, but the TJI 12's are vastly over-designed for that load, and rightfully so in your situation, due to 2" floated out concrete, and the reality that any movement can cause cracking, thus causing the heat tubing to be damaged. Fine hairline cracks won't hurt but big ones will ruin the heating system.
I see no issues unless you are sitting in-between the 16"o.c. spacing.

Looks good.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Here are the chairs along with the table.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Night shot.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Nice job JB. You pulled it off flawlessly. I love the color of that walnut.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Yep!
The chairs give it scale.
Love the table.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

So a bit of an update on the table. It's been about ten months since I finished and installed it and it has gotten a fair bit of use. I have some thoughts on the finish that I would like to share as I chose to go with Waterlox.

Pros: Easy to use for a DIY project. Brush on and sand. Looked great for a couple of months.

Cons: After ten months I need to refinish the table and go back to square one.

1. Waterlox scratches easily. Even taking great care, the table looks terrible.
2. The ambering of the tung oil in the Waterlox has made all the chatoyance virtually disappear. The only way to really enjoy this aspect is if there is a lot of light being shined on the table.
3. The sapwood edge which had been a beautiful blond color is saturated and darkened to the point where it no longer stands out against the rest of the darker figure.

I'm not sure which direction I'll go once I sand off the finish. I just spoke with a rep from Epifanes and he suggested I try their Rapid Clear product. If I could easily have the table sprayed, I would consider going with a catalyzed urethane.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I've followed your build process and love the table. Sorry to hear you are having issues with the finish.
When I read your plans on it's finish, I was suspect but since I've never used those products, it wasn't something I could comment on with any authority.

I use mostly troweled on and self leveling 2 part epoxy as a base and sometimes cover it with 1 to 2 coats of wb polyurethane to set the sheen, but the poly isn't required and if you want a bullet proof finish that won't yellow out, epoxy is an option, and then hand rub the epoxy to the sheen you want with pumice or rotten stone powder in a water slurry like paste to dull it down to a semi-gloss. It needs to sit for a number of days before you de-gloss it. Also the epoxy doesn't really cure for at least a solid month+, but is usable after 2 to 3 days. It tends to shrink during curing.

Figure if it's bulletproof enough for a bar scenario, your kitchen/dining use won't hurt it in the least.
On my walnut live edge table I use no coasters or pads. We do use hot pads for hot pans and the likes, but I'm not even sure that is necessary. My table was done just before yours, and hasn't yellowed or changed in the least. The blonde edge is still blonde.

Sorry for your misfortune in this.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

Da Aardvark said:


> I use mostly troweled on and self leveling 2 part epoxy as a base and sometimes cover it with 1 to 2 coats of wb polyurethane, but the poly isn't required and if you want a bullet proof finish that won't yellow out, epoxy is an option, and then hand rub the epoxy to the sheen you want with pumice or rotten stone powder in a water slurry like paste to dull it down to a semi-gloss. It needs to sit for a number of days before you de-gloss it. Also the epoxy doesn't really cure for at least a solid month+, but is usable after 2 to 3 days. It tends to shrink during curing.
> 
> Figure if it's bulletproof enough for a bar scenario, your kitchen/dining use won't hurt it in the least.


Thanks. I did an epoxy finish on another project involving figured walnut in another part of the house. Yes it's bomber and no offense, it's not my style. Ultimately decided to sand it off and go with a urethane finish. Only problem is that I have no clue as to what product I used. Old age and a lousy memory sucks!


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## 4thStreet (Mar 2, 2013)

....


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Welcome, but a glossed epoxy has no comparison to one in a semi-gloss sanded finish.
One sanded and polished to your gloss spec has a whole different appeal.

After all.. The seal to the wood needs to seal the wood, not change over time and needs to be durable. The finish is interchangeable.
The depth of a epoxy finish actually is not there when the sheen is removed.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I like LM Campbell's MagnaMax. Holds up well, easy to spray. Catalyzed Lacquer. They add the Cat, then you have up to 120 days to use it. $54.00 per gallon with tax of 7%. Must be sprayed.

Must use good mask, NOT DUST MASK.

Dale in Indy


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Yeah, that catalyzed material is very toxic to breath, install and sand.
I used to paint cars. After they did away with basic lacquers in shops (epa) I quit spraying, even with a very good mask and a body suit. 
You don't mess with that stuff without a very good spray booth with a good air replacement system, or you chance possible health issues, and if you pass out, they may not be able to revive you.

Not for me thanks.


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## 3fingers (Dec 7, 2011)

JB97031 said:


> Pros: Easy to use for a DIY project. Brush on and sand. Looked great for a couple of months.
> 
> Cons: After ten months I need to refinish the table and go back to square one.
> 
> ...


I have used Waterlox for over 15 years an have never had the issues with scratching. I made a desk 10 years ago that gets daily abuse an still looks great. 

Did u use the original formula? At least 6+ applications? If not I would suggest to lightly sand the top with 320 an then follow with 0000steel wool. Then reapply the Waterlox. 

This is a great finish


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Even though, it doesn't solve his yellowing problem.


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## JB97031 (Feb 19, 2012)

3fingers - I did a total of nine coats using original formula. As I mentioned, it looked great for a couple months until it went amber on me over time.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

For a clear film finish you might consider a waterbase polyurethane. There are many that are suitable for flooring. For a non film finish you could use a pure tung oil.









 







.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I agree with the polyurethane finish. It only very slightly will yellow over time. It is a durable finish by most folks standards.
My understanding is what you used has that yellowing tendency. If you know that going in, and expect it, I guess that's fine but then there is that durability issue. Also black walnut is already dark by nature so more darkening/yellowing would be (to me) disappointing. 
For myself, I assume the worst of conditions and abuse in my house. We don't baby our furniture. I also want it to remain as close to the original finish sheen and color as the day I install it. 
Epoxy has done that for me, and Poly (in water base only over epoxy) has held well in my projects.


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