# Shop-made Bar Clamps/Wax Procedure



## jharris

Hello all,

I'm just finishing up a batch of these clamps featured in Woodsmith, Volume 31 / No. 186, page 6.

It's recommended to apply coats of wax to the clamps to prevent gluing work pieces to the clamps. 

No specifics on this procedure were provided in the article but I remember reading or seeing somewhere that paraffin flakes can be dissolved in turpentine to allow the wax to be brushed on.

Unfortunately I don't remember the ratio of ingredients or the procedure.

I'd appreciate any help you can offer.

Thanks

Jeff


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## mveach

I just melt the wax.heat the wood and was to get into all the pores. wipe off excess.


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## jharris

mveach said:


> I just melt the wax.heat the wood and was to get into all the pores. wipe off excess.


Great suggestion but I don't have a heat gun and don't want to spend precious tool bucks on one. How would heat the clamps (they won't fit in my oven!) am I missing another simple solution?

Anybody ever hear of the turpentine/wax method?

Jeff


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## jharris

Complete/No Wax

Considering just spraying on heavy coat of Pledge or similar furniture wax, letting it penetrate in the back of my 4-Runner while I'm at work (already an oven with rising spring temps) wiping off the excess at the end of the day and I'm set.

I figure I can re-coat periodically as needed sans oven.


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## Roger Newby

Johnson's Paste Wax........same stuff you use on furniture and tablesaw tops.


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## mveach

Roger Newby said:


> Johnson's Paste Wax........same stuff you use on furniture and tablesaw tops.


Very easy, inexpensive, will as well as about anything and no heat required


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## jharris

Roger Newby said:


> Johnson's Paste Wax........same stuff you use on furniture and tablesaw tops.


Bingo! I feel like an idiot. The only excuse I can offer is that I've been concentrating on learning cutting assembly etc. and have been neglecting the finishing aspect of woodworking.

Thanks guys,

Jeff


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## jredburn

*wood sealing wax*

Jharris
You can make an all round shop wax by taking a box of parafin from the grocery store and a bottle of mineral oil from the drugstore ((laxitive dept) and mixing one slab of wax to a small bottle of oil. Use one pan full of water with another pan inside of the first pan. Put the mineral oil in the second pan and heat it. Put a stick of wax in the oil and let it heat. The wax will melt slowly and you can stir it a little. When all the wax is dissolved, let it cool slowly. If there is to much wax in the mixture it will settle out on the pan otherwise it will be fine. 
You can use the mixture to finish cutting boards for a food safe finish. It makes an excellent sealer for wood but you can't paint over it. It can be stored in a bottle on a shelf for a long time and can be reapplied if the finish gets dull.
Regards
Buckles


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## jharris

Thank you very much Buckles.

I already have the wax and a partial 6 oz. bottle of mineral oil that I've been using on my cutting boards.

The box of wax is 1 lb. (4 ea. 4 oz. cakes).

Soooo, if I understand you the correct ratio would be 4 oz. wax/6 oz. mineral oil.

Yes?

Jeff


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## thegrgyle

Nice job on the clamps, too. I like those alot.


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## jharris

thegrgyle said:


> Nice job on the clamps, too. I like those alot.


Thanks. I used them today to put 3/4" banding around the new RT top I'm building. I needed something portable for working in the field.

They worked really well but I need to make some longer ones.

Jeff


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## cabinetman

Fancy looking clamps. I wouldn't be applying wax to anything that comes in contact with the wood.












 







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## MidGAOutdoor

how are u making the clamps?


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## jharris

cabinetman said:


> Fancy looking clamps. I wouldn't be applying wax to anything that comes in contact with the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nothing fancy really. Just a low cost shop made alternative to buying ready made clamps.

I had some maple leftovers so the only money I spent on them was on the hardware.

As far as your comment above, I'm not sure what your geting at. Are you saying that I should be concerned about a transfer of wax from the clamps to the workpiece (creating a problem when I stain)?

Your input is always appreciated.

Jeff


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## jharris

MidGAOutdoor said:


> how are u making the clamps?


Hello MidGA,

I got the idea from a magazine article. See my original post on this thread for specific info.

Where in Georgia do you live? I have a sister who lives on the lake in Greensboro.

Jeff


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## cabinetman

jharris said:


> As far as your comment above, I'm not sure what your geting at. Are you saying that I should be concerned about a transfer of wax from the clamps to the workpiece (creating a problem when I stain)?
> 
> Your input is always appreciated.
> 
> Jeff


That's what I was getting at...staining or finishing. Sanding articles that have been contaminated with wax (or silicone) puts contaminated dust in the area, which can and does land on anything.












 







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## jharris

Thanks Cabman,

I haven't put any wax on them yet. What do you think about waxpaper between these clamps and a workpiece? Yes?

Jeff


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## Absinthe

The reason they always recommend waxing those kind of clamps is to prevent glue from sticking to them when you use them to clamp things that are being glued. 

If you wax the pads and it can "squeeze" out then it will leave wax on your wood and it will become apparent when staining later. I have, used paste wax on my table saw table, bees wax on hand saw blades and not and never really had any problems. 

Just a thought.


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## Gene Howe

Why not just spray or brush on some poly? 
I always lay down a strip of blue painters tape on my clamps. Protects and is easily removed.


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## ironhat

You could lay somebutchers' paper or waxed paper on the clamps. If you get the right kind of butchers' paper there will be one shiny side and the waxed paper doesn't have enough wax to be concerned about. But, I just lay on a couple of coats of high gloss poly.


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## eigersa

just give them a good coat of laquer or poly. then just keep on eye out for any glue that's squeezed out when you clamp and wipe it away.


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## thegrgyle

I have been doing some bent wood laminations recently (for the first time), and I put packaging tape on my forms..... works great!

Just a thought......

Fabian


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## Visions

WOW! Those clamps look awesome! Great job on them, really look nice!

As for wax to use, I like Briwax aerosol spray for ease of application over Pledge or other commercial products. It's made by a very reputable brand and contains fewer chemicals and additives than some of the commercial stuff does. I really like their paste wax as well.
As for other good waxes, Williamsville and Mylands have served me well. Renaissance wax is also a very good wax, expensive, but very tough. I've never used it on bare wood, but it's excellent on finished surfaces and also machine tables such as the tablesaw, planers, jointers and such.

As long as you don't have gobs of the wax contacting bare wood, I doubt you will have any finishing issues. Anyway, you will likely be sanding or scraping after gluing most times, and this will remove any surface contamination, as it will only be slight anyway.

If the wax proves to be an issue (I doubt it will) a coat of shellac will cover it, as shellac can be applied directly over wax without any issues at all. 

Good luck and thanks for sharing. Again, nice clamps :thumbsup: , I want some now!
Wayne


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## cabinetman

Visions said:


> As long as you don't have gobs of the wax contacting bare wood, I doubt you will have any finishing issues.


Sounds like you don't know for sure.



Visions said:


> Anyway, you will likely be sanding or scraping after gluing most times, and this will remove any surface contamination, as it will only be slight anyway.


Exactly, and the contaminated dust gets airborne and will affect finishing in the area.



Visions said:


> If the wax proves to be an issue (I doubt it will) a coat of shellac will cover it, as shellac can be applied directly over wax without any issues at all.


Again you don't sound like you know for sure. But, I disagree with you. Shellac will not stick to wax. In fact no finish will except for more wax. 












 







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## Visions

First off, shellac WILL stick to wax, as a matter of fact, all but de-waxed shellac contains wax. So how, if it won't stick to wax, could it possibly adhere to anything if it contains wax and yet won't stick to it? 

As for the sanding contamination issue you speak of, it's a total moot point and completely irrelevant. A simple wipe with naptha or mineral spirits will remove any of this "contamination" you speak of.

Anyway, why on earth would you be finishing right after sanding if dust is in the air, and why would you finish in the same area if you had just finished sanding? And if there is dust on the piece you fear is contaminated, why not wipe it down with an applicable solvent to remove said contamination?

I, along with thousands of other very successful woodworkers, have been waxing the tables on our saws, planers and jointers for a long, long time without any ill effects. And as well, shellac has been used to seal wax contaminated surfaces prior to finishing for decades if not centuries.

Here is a link that will totally clear up all your "issues".
You will notice that shellac is described as a solution for sealing a wax contaminated surface, and in the very beginning of the video, wax is described as a lubricant for the tables on your machines so the wood will slide better. If it would contaminate the wood by the wax being there, I doubt wax would be so widely used in that manner.





I'm sorry if you didn't understand or were unaware of these things, but please don't call me out in that manner without first asking me where I found the information I have provided. I don't speak of things I don't know, nor do I provide "bad" information.

Hope this clears up any confusion. And for the record, everything I stated in my original post is accurate, good information. Wax, if applied properly to clamps, machine tables and workbenches, will not cause any issue. I have had wax on all my machines, clamps and my workbench since day one, and have NEVER had a finishing issue that was wax related, NEVER.

Wayne


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## Visions

And another little bit on why I wrote things as I did: I can not know for sure what wax anyone will use, nor do I know how they will use their clamps or how they finish. I can't be sure that every wax on the face of the planet will have the same effects as what I use either. I do know that everything I use in the manner which I described has yet to cause me issue. Sorry for wanting to leave a little room for "interpretation" and error room for products I'm not familiar with. 

And really, before you cut me up, make sure you know what you're talking about, and if you think I'm wrong RESEARCH IT _before_ you throw digs at me. And really there's no reason to be rude or harsh to anyone here. It just doesn't make this enjoyable for anyone. And accept that sometimes, someone else might just know something that you don't.

Now let's get back to the topic at hand.
Wayne


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## GeorgeC

jharris said:


> Nothing fancy really. Just a low cost shop made alternative to buying ready made clamps.
> 
> I had some maple leftovers so the only money I spent on them was on the hardware.
> 
> As far as your comment above, I'm not sure what your geting at. Are you saying that I should be concerned about a transfer of wax from the clamps to the workpiece (creating a problem when I stain)?
> 
> Your input is always appreciated.
> 
> Jeff


That is exactly what he is saying. This would be a problem wether you stain or paint.

If you are worring about glueing the clamps to your project just wrap a piece of your wife's foil around the end of the clamp.

George


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## Visions

Where is all this worry of "wax transfer" suddenly coming from? I have never heard of it being such an issue, nor has it even been a problem for me. And I wax my clamps, bench, all my machines, heck, I even wax my smoothing plane, which is often the last thing to touch the wood prior to finishing, and yet I have never had a single issue with fish-eyes, adhesion, etc., that would indicate a contamination issue.

And really, if someone has actually seen this or had this "contamination" occur from properly applied and buffed wax, please bring it to my attention.

I have discussed this with a very well known wood worker and furniture maker, and he agrees with me, it's mostly an old wives tale. Unless you leave a large amount of wax on the surface, you have more chance of your own body oils contaminating the surface than you do wax.

Now, please don't get me wrong, I'm open to hear anything, and if you have had a definite contamination, I will hear you out. But it needs to be serious and from properly applied and buffed wax. 

One word to the OP: In all reality, the chances of having something contaminated by wax to the point it causes an issue is so slim it doesn't warrant nearly as much discussion as it has brought up.

Really, we're finishing wood here. It doesn't require a "clean room". Wood has plenty of natural oils present, and finishes are made to deal with this. Unless you wax the piece you are trying to finish, I just can't see you having any issue. 
If "airborne wax" from sanding dust, etc., contaminated everything it touched to the point it caused finishing issues, nearly every woodturner would be swamped with finishing issues, especially if they use HUT Crystal Coat or other friction finishes that contain wax.

Wayne


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## ecuadee

*Wax and finishes*

Years back I was detailing my motorcycle and wanted to renew the appearance of my footpeg brackets.They were triangular in shape,with a polished aluminum rim and a leather-grained interior portion painted black.After polishing the rim, I went to paint the interior,and had the idea to mask the polished part with paste wax.I used automotive paste wax,applied at least twice as thick as you would when waxing your car.I then painted them, and after about an hour, I figured that if I was careful, I could rub off the paint from the polished part.I had the Devil's own time removing the paint from the heavily waxed surface.Granted, Aluminum and wood are different substrates,but that experience tells me that paint will generally stick.Clear finishes and stains may show some distortion,But since then I am not obsessive about preparation.


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## jharris

Wayne,

Thank you for your input. 

I guess maybe my question was a bit silly but that comes from my own ignorance and inexperience with finishing rather than obsessiveness.

Thanks to you all for your input as well.

Jeff


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## mikekahle

ecuadee said:


> Years back I was detailing my motorcycle and wanted to renew the appearance of my footpeg brackets.They were triangular in shape,with a polished aluminum rim and a leather-grained interior portion painted black.After polishing the rim, I went to paint the interior,and had the idea to mask the polished part with paste wax.I used automotive paste wax,applied at least twice as thick as you would when waxing your car.I then painted them, and after about an hour, I figured that if I was careful, I could rub off the paint from the polished part.I had the Devil's own time removing the paint from the heavily waxed surface.Granted, Aluminum and wood are different substrates,but that experience tells me that paint will generally stick.Clear finishes and stains may show some distortion,But since then I am not obsessive about preparation.



Not to hijack this post but I have to ask... you painted the leather? And just how long before it started to peal off? a couple of hours? Maybe I just read this wrong.... 
For any leathers (except suede) oil, use mink oil, neets foot oil or use mineral oil. Then Dye it once the oil has "dried" on the surface. then oil some more if you dont seal. And oil it periodically especially if it is out in the elements.
Do your work boots the same too.... will keep them from drying out and cracking and such especially if you get your boots wet...


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## Old Clockguy

Hair dryer will work in a pinch also.


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## Oneal-Woodworking

thegrgyle said:


> Nice job on the clamps, too. I like those alot.


I said the same thing to myself when I saw the picture.


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