# Sell me on a router lift



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Im sure you guys are getting sick of questions from a guy that just cant seem to make up his mind. If so, blame Ryan. I had my mind made up allready before he started posting pics of his Christmas gifts! lol

My mind was all made up to buy the big Triton router, TRA 001 and a Woodpeckers plate and rings. This combo will cost right around $400.

The reason for selecting that router is that it gets the best reviews for table use without a lift. I really wanted a lift but I refuse to pay the rediculous prices for one. Its also a 3 1/4 HP router. I dont really require that kind of power from a router but it would be nice to know the power was there if I ever needed to do some raised panels.

So, the Jessem Rout R Lift II is just shy of $200. Going with this lift would require I go with a different router to stay in budget and I was advised with a router as heavy as the Triton, I shouldnt bolt it to a phenolic plate. The Jessem is phenolic. I know theres several good routers out there for sub $200 prices so thats not a concern. I guess Im looking for someone to sell me on the lift. Is it a decent lift? Will I be frusterated with it and wish I had just gone with option number 1? Ive read all the reviews that I can find out there for it and it gets mixed reviews.

So option 1, the big Triton mounted to a Woodpeckers plate or...
option 2, a lesser router mounted in a Jessem lift.

FYI, this is the only lift that fits into my budget so reccomending a more expensive one is useless.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I have the Jessum Master Lift II. It has a 3/8" aluminum plate and will accept small or large routers.

I put off buying it until recently. I would not trade it for something of twice the value. You don't know what your missing till you get your hands on one of these. They are awesome! :yes:


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

mdntrdr said:


> I have the Jessum Master Lift II. It has a 3/8" aluminum plate and will accept small or large routers.
> 
> I put off buying it until recently. I would not trade it for something of twice the value. You don't know what your missing till you get your hands on one of these. They are awesome! :yes:


 Im asking specifically about the Rout R Lift II. The master lift is way over budget. If the Rout R Lift II isnt worth buiyiing, Ill go back to my original plan.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The bearings posts and clamping mechanisms on it are well built and have excellent machining. The top has aluminum pieces built in to eliminate sag. If I was using it in a production situation I'd go for the aluminum, but it's going into a Formica top so I felt the phenolic top was more than sufficient. 

If you want any close ups just let me know...


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Have you had the opertunity to use yours at all Ryan? I was only able to find a few reviews for the lift at all. The bad ones were things like it was a pain to level but you only had to do that once. Another person complained that you had to crank it so much and Jessem advised not to use a drill for cranking because it could wear out the mechanism, etc. Another person said that thier posts rusted.

Im very interested in having a lift but I dont wanna buy one thats junk. It definately dosnt look like junk. I guess I just need a little reassurance.


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## retfr8flyr (Aug 7, 2013)

I had a Triton MOF 001 mounted in my table, trying to do the same thing and not buy a lift and it worked OK but not great. I use an Incra table and after mounting the Triton I couldn't raise it enough with the crank to change bits while it was in the table. The Triton has a push arbor lock and only 1 wrench. I couldn't reach the push lock from the top, so it was easier to just lift it out to change bits. Setting the height worked fine but again it was inconvenient to lock it in place after it was set. I finally got tired of it and I just got the Incra Mast-R-Lift II and a PC 7518 router. I love the new setup and it works like a dream. This is the way to go if you can swing the cost. I now use the Triton, great router by the way, for hand work.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Well a few things......

1. The fact that you have to crank it alot to make it go up and down....is a benefit in that you have great precision. When one revolution is 1/16th, you can control it really well. I don't see this as a bad thing.

2. Anything metal will rust, including the posts on a plunge router base if the conditions are right. So therefore....the rusting part is a problem of the shop conditions....not the fault of the tool.

3. The leveling of the plate......is a one time set up....and no better or worse than a plate or any other lift. 

4. I've only got to operate it out of the table....in which it seems to operate perfectly. its going to be a bit before I get to use it in


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

retfr8flyr said:


> I had a Triton MOF 001 mounted in my table, trying to do the same thing and not buy a lift and it worked OK but not great. I use an Incra table and *after mounting the Triton I couldn't raise it enough with the crank to change bits* while it was in the table. The Triton has a push arbor lock and only 1 wrench. I couldn't reach the push lock from the top, so it was easier to just lift it out to change bits. Setting the height worked fine but again it was inconvenient to lock it in place after it was set. I finally got tired of it and I just got the Incra Mast-R-Lift II and a PC 7518 router. I love the new setup and it works like a dream. This is the way to go if you can swing the cost. I now use the Triton, great router by the way, for hand work.


Not sure I understand this,,, unless you were trying to change bits with the power switch on.. The Triton has a mechanical interlock that will not allow the router to travel far enough for the automatic spindle lock to engage when the router power switch is in the "ON" position. The push arbor lock is automatically engaged when the router is in the proper position.
The setup you ended up with is a great setup but I'm guessing you had to drop something north of $700.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you can't get there unless....*



mdntrdr said:


> I have the Jessum Master Lift II. It has a 3/8" aluminum plate and will accept small or large routers.
> 
> I put off buying it until recently. I would not trade it for something of twice the value. You don't know what your missing till you get your hands on one of these. They are awesome! :yes:





retfr8flyr said:


> I had a Triton MOF 001 mounted in my table, trying to do the same thing and not buy a lift and it worked OK but not great. I use an Incra table and after mounting the Triton I couldn't raise it enough with the crank to change bits while it was in the table. The Triton has a push arbor lock and only 1 wrench. I couldn't reach the push lock from the top, so it was easier to just lift it out to change bits. Setting the height worked fine but again it was inconvenient to lock it in place after it was set. I finally got tired of it and I just got the Incra Mast-R-Lift II and a PC 7518 router. I love the new setup and it works like a dream. This is the way to go if you can swing the cost. I now use the Triton, great router by the way, for hand work.


Ok, I was instrumental in mdntrdr's decision to get the Jessem Mast R Lift II, since I have two of them I had no qualms in recommending them. As retfr8flyr said he tried your first option and it didn't work out that great. I can't speak to the Router Lift II or it's qualities, it does get 4 out of 5 stars on Amazon.... however.

You can either get the router you mentioned and use it until you get the lift we recommend OR get the Lift now and make another router work. The Lift will take about 10 different size routers AFAIK. The Chevy will probably get you there, but the Caddy will do a lot more. 
I will say the newer Mast R Lift II has a cam spindle lock, which the first versions did NOT. :thumbdown: I have 2 of those also, and I found the height DID change in certain operations. If that is the difference between the two lifts here, then by all means get the spindle locking version...Mast R Lift II. :thumbsup:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The Rout R Lift II also has the spindle lock.....


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## retfr8flyr (Aug 7, 2013)

jschaben said:


> Not sure I understand this,,, unless you were trying to change bits with the power switch on.. The Triton has a mechanical interlock that will not allow the router to travel far enough for the automatic spindle lock to engage when the router power switch is in the "ON" position. The push arbor lock is automatically engaged when the router is in the proper position.
> The setup you ended up with is a great setup but I'm guessing you had to drop something north of $700.


Yes I have a separate power switch mounted to the table that the Triton was plugged into. I didn't know about the interlock until after I had it all set up. It was either go under the table and turn the power switch off, so it would raise high enough to engage the lock to change the bits, or just pull it out of the table, which was easier in the long run since I had it mounted in an Incra Clean Sweep box. The Incra Mast-R-Lift II is just their version of the Jessem lift with their metal throat plate system. Actually I got everything on sale so the lift and router cost me less than $600.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I was going to jump in on the topic of the Triton not raising far enough for the collet to lock but it was already addressed: Turn the switch off. I use a separate big "Off" switch but don't have a problem reaching underneath to make sure the router's switch is off, too, for bit changes.

For those who would feel the need, you can defeat the interlock. Here's a link: http://www.thewoodnerd.com/tips/tritonInterlock.html 

For what it's worth, I really like the Triton. I would go for a lift if it was little additional expense but the added convenience doesn't justify the big cost for me.

woodnthings and Ryan said:
<<I will say the newer Mast R Lift II has a spindle lock>>
<<The Rout R Lift II also has the spindle lock....>>

How does that work??

Bill


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

...the Triton was listed on amazon for $199 yesterday...just sayin'


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

My table routers are the Freud FT1700 and Milwaukee 5625. I've never owned a lift, and have never felt like something was missing. That doesn't mean that it wouldn't be handy, but with above table adjustment features available, a lift would be about 23rd on my priority list.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Jess em Mast R Lift II*

The "spindle lock" is a cam that locks the .....:
http://jessem.com/MAST-R-LIFT.html


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

I'm with knotscott, even though all my woodworking friends have 'em.
I setup at eyelevel, so I'm already near the knob. Although I suppose my horizontal table is a lift, since it has a crank!


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks for all the relplies guys.

Have any of you ever read the reviews for the Triton routers? The routers are designed to have incredible adjustability without having to purchase a lift. I cant throw that one out the window because one guy here had an issue with it when it gets amazing reviews everywhere. I was aware of the power switch needing to be powered off for bit changes. Thats a non issue.

The Master Lift II is out of the question. I refuse to pay more for a lift than the router its gonna be lifting. I say that as I get ready to purchase a fence that cost nearly 4 times the cost of the saw Im gonna put it on, lol. I dont allready have a lift because I cant justify that cost. I can justify the cost of a $200 lift when its cheaper than my option of not having a lift at all.

I had really hoped to get some opinions from those that have and use a Rout R Lift II but I guess there isnt alot of them out there yet as I cant find many reviews.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

MT Stringer said:


> ...the Triton was listed on amazon for $199 yesterday...just sayin'


 It still is, and with free shipping. Thats a beast of a router for 200 bucks!


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

<<_The "spindle lock" is a cam that locks the .....:
http://jessem.com/MAST-R-LIFT.html
_>>

Ahh - but after reading that link I see I misunderstood what they meant by 'spindle lock' on the Jessem. They mean that they are locking the spindle's vertical position, not locking it for a bit change. So if you want a router to lock the spindle shaft for a one-wrench bit change, the Triton or some others would still be the way to go.

Bill


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I know that some of the early Triton's had issues with nylon or Delryn gears wearing prematurely, but AFAIK they've replaced those with metal gears and no longer have that chronic issue. Other than that, the only issues I catch on forums are very occasional odd random issues that pertain to every router and every motorized tool ever made. FWIW, I don't have a Triton, but I have a smaller 13 amp FT1700 Freud that I choose 90% of the time over my beasty 15 amp MW5625....not because it's a superior router, but b/c I find those topside features so darn convenient. Can you add a router lift down the road if you want one?


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## retfr8flyr (Aug 7, 2013)

BassBlaster said:


> Thanks for all the relplies guys.
> 
> Have any of you ever read the reviews for the Triton routers? The routers are designed to have incredible adjustability without having to purchase a lift. I cant throw that one out the window because one guy here had an issue with it when it gets amazing reviews everywhere. I was aware of the power switch needing to be powered off for bit changes. Thats a non issue.
> 
> ...


I think you misunderstood my post. The Triton is a great router and handeled everything I threw at it when it was in my table, in most table setups it would be fine. It just didn't work in my setup because I drilled the hole in the plate for the adjustment rod before I found out about the power switch lock problem. I had it mounted in the Clean Sweep DC box, this required me to lower the door to the box as well as reach inside and turn off the switch, the switch was hard to reach due to the way I had mounted the router. It worked, it was just inconvenient and easier to just pull it out for bit changes, so I decided to get a lift. I still use the Triton for hand work and it is a great router. I would imagine the TRA version is even better, mounted in a table, then my MOF was.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

knotscott said:


> Can you add a router lift down the road if you want one?


 Yes and that may be the best direction to go at this point. I dunno that I need a lift especially with the adjustibility of the Triton.


retfr8flyr said:


> I think you misunderstood my post. The Triton is a great router and handeled everything I threw at it when it was in my table, in most table setups it would be fine. It just didn't work in my setup because I drilled the hole in the plate for the adjustment rod before I found out about the power switch lock problem. I had it mounted in the Clean Sweep DC box, this required me to lower the door to the box as well as reach inside and turn off the switch, the switch was hard to reach due to the way I had mounted the router. It worked, it was just inconvenient and easier to just pull it out for bit changes, so I decided to get a lift. I still use the Triton for hand work and it is a great router. I would imagine the TRA version is even better, mounted in a table, then my MOF was.


 Thanks


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*possibly an issue?*

If the Triton has anything other than machined feed screws like Acme or other you may have to use the "up from the bottom" approach to set the height. This takes out any play in the feed screw that raises the router assembly and puts the weight of the assembly on the screws so when you raise it, it will be under load. If you over shoot the height you will have to start over. 

That may not be the case with the Triton, I donno?


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

My Freud 3000 has the built in lift so I left the plunge springs in. The opposing forces, gravity pulling down and the springs pushing up, pretty effectively neutralize any hysteresis in the system.:smile:


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> If the Triton has anything other than machined feed screws like Acme or other you may have to use the "up from the bottom" approach to set the height. This takes out any play in the feed screw that raises the router assembly and puts the weight of the assembly on the screws so when you raise it, it will be under load. If you over shoot the height you will have to start over.
> 
> That may not be the case with the Triton, I donno?


 Im not sure I understand. The Triton comes with a crank handle much like a lift for above the table height adjustment.



jschaben said:


> My Freud 3000 has the built in lift so I left the plunge springs in. The opposing forces, gravity pulling down and the springs pushing up, pretty effectively neutralize any hysteresis in the system.:smile:


 Triton reccomends removing the plunge spring for table mounting.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

BassBlaster said:


> Triton reccomends removing the plunge spring for table mounting.



If you remove the springs, there will be up and down slop in the threads. You will have to go under the table to lock the router to eliminate the slop. :yes:


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Guess if I decide to go with the Triton Ill try it both ways and see. I havnt read a single review about anyone complaining of slop in the adjustments and there are tons of reviews out there for this router.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

BassBlaster said:


> Guess if I decide to go with the Triton Ill try it both ways and see. I havnt read a single review about anyone complaining of slop in the adjustments and there are tons of reviews out there for this router.


I researched the Triton, and others, before buying a lift.
There is considerable play up and down when not locked.

One of the Youtube videos I watched, highlighted this fact. He grabbed the spindle and you could see it move up and down. This was a deal breaker for me as was the power switch under the table. :smile:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If that's the way you want to go......have at it......I can't see how you'd want to forgo a lift, when the main purpose of the router is in the table......for all about the same price. But that's just me......I hope it works out how your hoping.....report back when its all set up and let us know.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

ryan50hrl said:


> If that's the way you want to go......have at it......I can't see how you'd want to forgo a lift, when the main purpose of the router is in the table......for all about the same price. But that's just me......I hope it works out how your hoping.....report back when its all set up and let us know.


 I still havnt decided. I could go either way at this point. Im beating myself up trying to decide whats the best direction for me. Id really like a lift but reading through this thread alone, everyone says to get the Mast R Lift which is just not a possibility. Will the Rout R Lift be okay for my shop? I think so. Im a hobby shop so my tools get limited use and are never abused. I think a $200 lift will suit me just fine. I just cant find much info out there. The reviews that I did find are positive though. If I go with the lift, Im also gonna go with the same Craftsman router that you have.

I guess Im waiting for you to get yours together and put it to use and report back so get to it!!:laughing:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*just so's you know*

The Router Lift will handle The PC 690/890 and the Craftsman 28190 and 28084 series... as described here:
JessEm Rout-R-Lift II Router Lift For 3-1/2" Diameter Motors, JessEm# 02310 - Amazon.com

It will not accept the larger PC 7518's like the Mast R Lift II. That may not be a concern but we know that a PC 690 is a very durable router based on first and second hand experience. I don't know about the Craftsman series. :no:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The craftsman router I have....i'd put up against any router on the market in its same class.......the thing is next to bullet proof.....precise to use....the bases are great.....tons of power.......I've yet to find one thing I dislike about it. Seriously......every tool I have there are things i'd like to change.......except my router. 


As to the lift...Its going to be a while till I get it installed and in use......but I can't find anything that I don't like about it yet.....it looks like its built great....its smooth to operate....and its very precise for adjustment......

Anyhow.....I'll let ya know when I get it in place and try it out.....


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

ryan50hrl said:


> The craftsman router I have....i'd put up against any router on the market in its same class.......the thing is next to bullet proof.....precise to use....the bases are great.....tons of power.......I've yet to find one thing I dislike about it. Seriously......every tool I have there are things i'd like to change.......except my router.
> 
> 
> As to the lift...Its going to be a while till I get it installed and in use......but I can't find anything that I don't like about it yet.....it looks like its built great....its smooth to operate....and its very precise for adjustment......
> ...


 No problem, Im just messin with ya. Im sure Ill make a decision and place an order here soon.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I know...no problem.......just the way I see it.....is the lift/router option gives you a great router.....a lift....and the ability to quickly pull the router out...use it in the base....and then throw it back in the lift with one screw......


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

After 40 years of buying cheaper tools that fit my budget, only to throw them away when they quit working or just in favor of a better tool, I have come to believe I am better off buying the quality tool, even if I have to save for awhile to afford it. I have the Master lift II and use a PC 7518 in it, which has 3.25 hp. This thing will take on any bit in any wood. The lift is magnificent. You might consider a used high HP router and the Master lift II to help bring the price down.


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## router worker (Jan 30, 2014)

Woodpeckers PRL V2 with the porter cable 7518 is your best bet you'll have 650.00 in it but 1/16 per crank equal precision, lift all the way out for easy bit changes. I have 2 of these set ups and highly recommend them, the craftsman professional 2 1/2 hp combo 26780 is a very nice unit for hand held routering.


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

Anyone out there have some WD40 they can spare for Ryan? His "." key appears to be sticking quite badly these days.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

rbk123 said:


> Anyone out there have some WD40 they can spare for Ryan? His "." key appears to be sticking quite badly these days.


Nope........it's working fine...... See.......... No problems at all........


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

After buying Freud 1700, I was sold on above table changes, adjustments. Too bad the router is a pos.
I have an old PC Speedtronic, router motor, (5182?)waiting for me to get or make a lift for it.
Haven't found a lift, to fit the 4 1/2" diameter. It's larger than the PC 7518, and weighs 3 1/2#'s more!


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> Nope........it's working fine...... See.......... No problems at all........


:icon_smile:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's beast!*



Pirate said:


> After buying Freud 1700, I was sold on above table changes, adjustments. Too bad the router is a pos.
> I have an old PC Speedtronic, router motor, (5182?)waiting for me to get or make a lift for it.
> Haven't found a lift, to fit the 4 1/2" diameter. It's larger than the PC 7518, and weighs 3 1/2#'s more!


I have the same router. It seemed like bigger was better at the time, but there are no lifts that I know of that will fit this one. I bought the older Jess Em Mast R Lift II thinking it would fit, but no dice.

The newer ones with the 12 way adjustable cams may work, I donno? a call to Jess Em may help. I've given up on that project,as it makes a monster hand held, but with few applications. Maybe a router/planer sled where you can use the factor fixed base? :blink:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Pirate said:


> After buying Freud 1700, I was sold on above table changes, adjustments. Too bad the router is a pos.
> I have an old PC Speedtronic, router motor, (5182?)waiting for me to get or make a lift for it.
> Haven't found a lift, to fit the 4 1/2" diameter. It's larger than the PC 7518, and weighs 3 1/2#'s more!


 I doubt you will find a commercial lift for the 1700, motor is just to big. I have a 1700 in a portable table and a 3000 in a freestanding table. The operation of the 3000 is much nicer but the only real issue I've had with the 1700 is the above table clamp doesn't,,,, at least not very well. The other operations, height and bit changing haven't been an issue. I do like the location of the speed control on the 1700, never have to look for it, always dead center on the bottom.:smile:

Back to the lift though. There are several plans out there for shop made lifts that could be adapted for the 1700.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's not the 1700 he's looking for a lift*

It's the Porter Cable:
Quote.... I have an old PC Speedtronic, router motor, (5182?)*waiting for me to get or make a lift for it*.
Haven't found a lift, to fit the 4 1/2" diameter. It's larger than the PC 7518, and weighs 3 1/2#'s more! 
That why I posted what I said just above your post. :yes:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Boy, was I confused... Thanks:blink:


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