# Need a new workbench



## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Gang, I'm at a point where I really need a new workbench. Up until now, I've been scraping by working on what-ever flat surface I can find. But I am starting a project where I'll be doing enough work that I feel I really need a dedicated bench, with a reliable flat top.

I've looked around, and discovered that buying one of the pre-builts is out of the question (no budget). So I'm looking at building one.

The first two things that pop up are the vises, and the top.

Lots of options for both.
What are you folks using?
Do you REALLY NEED both a front & tail vise, or are they just nice to have (don't have either at the moment).

About the top: Is a sturdy plywood top on a torsion box frame "good enough" for a part-timer. or are those built up maple tops REALLY that good, and worth the time & expense to build?


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

A LOT of hobbyists are using plywood / MDF tops. I am not a huge fan of the torsion box mostly due to its complexity. I just don't see the advantage of having a big hollow box like that. You want your top that thick? Make the sucker solid! I know a LOT of guys make bench tops out of torsion boxes, but personally, I would MUCH rather have the mass of a solid top... 

Laminated butcher block type tops simply kick butt from an aesthetic point of view. And they are certainly something that, if taken care of, your great grandchildren can enjoy. But they are horridly expensive unless you have trees of your own and a way to mill them into lumber... (Maple is NOT cheap around here...) Certain species of pine (not all though) are excellent bench tops. Southern Yellow, Long Leaf, and Lodgepole pine all offer great bench top material. Around here, at the local lumberyards, SYP 2x4s are cheap and plentiful. And if you get yours at the right yard, already dried and past the will twist on you when you look at it stage, so having good, clear straight lumber isn't a problem... (Just steer clear of the BORG)...

So long winded answer made short. If I wanted to get something good and workable, split a sheet of cabinet grade 3/4" birch ply length wise and laminate it together to come up with a 1.5" top (or keep adding to get thicker top). That is the way mine is now. If you want an even heavier / sturdier top, get some good straight, clear and dry 2x4s of something like SYP, joint and plane them so you have good glue surfaces, and laminate up a 3.5" thick top together. You'll be able to drop a house on that no problem... A bit more work, and a LOT more weight to lift up...

Now the vise. I have a Central Forge (Harbor Freight) 9" quick release woodworking vise, and the same vise labelled by Jet that I got on sale at Woodcraft in the positions you mentioned. They both work VERY well. The HF vise comes caked in cosmoline, so a good cleaning and dry lube is in order, but aside from that, it's a good working vise. Other members here have the same vise but haven't had as good luck with it... If you can be a little patient, maybe look on Amazon or something, get the Jet...

My only wish I did different on my workbench, I made the base from Cedar because it is what I had... TOO LIGHT and TOO FLEXIBLE... The dumb thing wiggles when I am working the hand plane...


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I would make the table top frame from store bought 2x6's, and either Birch Plywood or MDF for the top. Thicker is better, but you don't need to go 1.5", 3/4" works for most of my work benches. Then just add some legs made from (2) 2x4's in an L shape for structure. You can tie in the legs on the bottom with some more 2x4s, and make some 2x4's that run perpendicular on the bottom. You can then store things under there. 


If you are on a budget, HF freight clamps work great, I have a bunch of HF clamps and even some of their vices. Save the big expensive built in vices for when you have a budget to build a super nice work bench, that is, if you ever need more than a simple bench like dbhost or I have discussed. 


Also, check your local trade papers for used or left over counter tops. Those things make great benches.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

How about the dog holes at the face vise?
How necessary (useful) are they? I can see a case for them, but they could be challenging to add to a torsion box (IF I do a torsion box, I'm really a solid top fan... But Maple is expensive, especially that much of it).
Around here, the 2x4s are mostly Douglas Fir, because that's what is plentiful. They grow thick as grass on the local hills. It's good stuff.
I've been considering using them for the top.
You rip 'em in half to make 2x2's, and laminate those into the top.
Then put a 2x6 apron type frame around the outside, and a 2x4 center brace up the center of the underside, and it should be more than tough enough. But I'm concerned about using a soft wood for that... 

I'll most probably do a torsion box arrangement for the base (three of them.. one for each end, and one for the back). It's tremendously strong, stable, and inexpensive. It's just a bit more trouble to build.

Maybe a composite.
Build the inexpensive torsion box base, and spend the money saved on the Maple (or Birch, depending on what's available, and affordable at the moment), to make a butcherblock style top.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Colt W. Knight said:


> Also, check your local trade papers for used or left over counter tops. Those things make great benches.


Which brings to mind Ikea. They sell solid wood counter tops, that are affordable, and very flat. Pick up a 6' section, and build a table under it. Quick & dirty, but strong & affordable.

I just need to shift my thinking down from the big all Maple Pro Workbenches. They're sweeeettt.. but I really can't justify spending that much for what amounts to a hobby bench. (for now at least).

I'll also look at HF for vises & clamps.
Been shoping Woodcraft & Rockler, and I was getting sticker shock for the face vise.

There's some good suggestions here. Keep 'em coming.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

I bet this would work for a face vise!


http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/vises/9-inch-quick-release-woodworking-vise-94386.html


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

WoodRic said:


> I bet this would work for a face vise!
> 
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/vises/9-inch-quick-release-woodworking-vise-94386.html


That's the vise I have. It works great... Like I said, just needs to be cleaned of the cosmoline, and dry lubed prior to use... (Especially the screw and quick release mechanism...).

I got mine on sale ($45.00 I think) then had the 20% off coupon on top of that...

Just like the Jet, and Anant and Groz 9" quick release models, it is just a copy of an old Record design...

Yes, the bench dog holes in the vice faces are very useful. HOWEVER, I got a set of the Rockler bench dogs that are WAY too long. I made shorter ones out of Walnut and they work great!

Thickness of a workbench, IF you are going to use holdfasts is pretty important. 1.5" is actually on the thin side for many holdfasts. I have the Rockler cast iron ones. A piece of advice, DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THESE.... I have 2 pairs of Grammercy holdfasts on my wish list... Other things a thicker bench top are good for are bench dogs, planing stops and the like will be much more solid in a thicker top... More material to work against...


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Never had a wood vise and still do not feel the need for one. For the few times that I have to "vise up" something I just pad my machinist/mechanics vise.

My workbenck is built of 2"x6"x10' lumber. The 2x6s are then covered in a sheet of 1/8 masonite. 2x4 frame underneath and cabinets. When I need something out in the center of the floor I put a sheet of plywood on top of saw horses. After I am finished with it I can store it. Sometimes if I need a really flat surface or something especially solid I use the top of my table saw.

George


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Thanks for the confirmation on the HF vise. It looked to me like a usable vise, providing that the quality isn't too bad.

The more seriously I dig around, the better this is looking.
At first glance it looked like this bench was going to cost a fortune.
But with some sense, it doesn't have to.

I'm going to make a trip out to Ikea to look at their solid wood counter tops. But I think they're only 1-1/2" thick. 
But then, the Maple tops are only 1-3/4", so it's not a huge difference. I could always back the Ikea top with a sheet of 3/4" ply to firm things up.

I'm talking myself out of the torsion box top.
I believe I'll go solid, of some type. At the moment, there's an excellent chance I'll rip down some 2x4's and laminate them up butcher block fashion. It won't last forever, but it should outlast a sheet of plywood.

I'm encouraged by what I'm finding on vises. When I scouted around last night, it looked like I'd have to drop $300 to get both of them. I'm seeing usable vises for a fraction of that today.

For the tail vise, I'm actually looking at a press screw. Anchor it to the frame, and put the inside end on a sliding block. Drill a couple of holes for bench dogs, and it's a tail vise. No need for the expensive pre-builts. 

The more I research, the better this is getting.
I'm even starting to find affordable vises at Woodcraft.
I missed those before, thinking it HAD to be the high-end model.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I think you'll find using 2x6s or good plywood will last longer than most proplebexpect.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

I have a workbench inherited from my father, who bought it off a guy who was clearing out his basement -- who knows how old it is. My father had it for at least 25 years, probably more like 30, and I've had it for almost 3. It's made with a 2x4 frame, and six foot long 2x6's for the top. It's no longer quite so smooth or level as I'd like, but most of that is down to damage sustained while it was being moved: if I took out the screws that hold it together, I could easily get the top as smooth as it needs to be. A shelf about 8" off the ground weighted down with scrap lumber makes it a lot more stable, and provides a good place to store scrap lumber. It has a machinist's vice and an old, old craftsman wood-working vice on the front.

If what you need is a solid, heavy-duty bench, it's hard to beat. If what you need is a bench that can provide a large area that's perfectly flat, you'll probably want to keep a chunk of MDF or something around to set on it, because this won't provide it. If what you need is something attractive... well, this isn't it.  It'll easily hold 250 pounds or more, though, and once it's weighted down it won't shift no matter what you put on it.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

I built my own work bench this last winter. I had a stock of alder 2 X 4 rough sawn lumber donated by my brother, so that is what I made the top from. I laminated them together on edge and planed them down with a router set up on a cross sliding jig. The final thickness was about 3-1/2 inches. The carcass s built up from 3/4 inch plywood dressed up with 1/4 inch birch veneered plywood glued on. The carcass is set onto alder 2 X 6 lengthwise with more pieces set across, and carried by six inch industrial swivel/locking casters. The overall dimensions are 38 inches wide by 120 inches long, and about 38 inches high. I built ten drawers into it, six in the middle, in two rows, and two at each end to allow room to mount two quick release woodworking vises. The space behind the vise have shelves to collect what ever needs to be collected. The whole bench is very solid, and can take a pounding because of the solid top. I keep a thin carpet runner on top to protect the surface, which I finished with seven coats of water based varathane.

I was considering adding holes for bench dogs, but so far I haven't found the need for them. If I should ever decide to add them it will be very simple to drill the holes then.

Gerry


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Lots of great suggestions, and insights here!

Something that JUST became apparent: I'd seen suggestions to use 2x6's for the top. What didn't occur to me until I read the last few posts was that the reference was to lay them FLAT! 

I think for an overall stability standpoint, I'm still looking at a hardwood top of some species. Possibly even still a softwood (Pine, Fir, ...). But taking the 2x4's, or 2x6's (what-ever) and ripping them the long way (basically turning them into 2x2s), and laminating those. It would prevent them from cupping later. I'd have concerns about a 2x6 laid flat cupping over time.

I like the Alder top! Probably not the most budget friendly for most of us, but I bet it looks great! I used Alder for my kitchen cabinets, and the familyroom fireplace mantel. Nice looking wood.
Funny thing about Alder. I grew up considering it a nuisance tree. Around here, they are the first thing to grow in when an area was logged off, or cleared for some reason. They will choke out an area, and prevent the fir trees from growing back if you don't maintain it for several years after clearing it. Or re-plant firs, and then still go in & keep the faster growing alders pulled out until the firs get a better start. Used to consider them as little more than a big weed.

Now, they're being harvested, and used for furniture. It's a good end to those things. lol


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## bandman (Jan 15, 2009)

Just my two cents worth. I've been doing this for many years and have never found the need for a fancy work bench except for when
I'm carving something. My work bench is also my table saw out-feed table and it was built that way on purpose. I have a bench/out-feed table made up of 2x4 framing with 4x4 legs and 3/4" industrial board top. It is 8' wide and 16' long and I can build anything I want on it. Below it I have storage for sanders, planers, drills etc and I love it. I have been using those sanding mats instead of bench dogs or vises for almost 20 years and find that they work great. I can throw bar clamps on it and glue stock up, then just wipe the glue up or scrape it off the next day...no problem. Spend money on tools and dust collecting, not on a fancy bench.

Bandman


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Bandman

You bring up an interesting feature that I hadn't considered: Making this the same height as my table saw so I can use it as an out-feed. I absolutely need something like that because my table saw is one of the portable "job" type of saws, and it is seriously lacking in an outfeed.
I was originally going to build a kind of combination "super-bench" that had a spot for the table saw & router & miter saw, etc in in. I've pretty much talked myself out of that idea, but simply making this the same height as the saw makes it an extension "When I need one". 

This table has morphed a LOT since I started this thread. I'm not even going to start drawing again for a little while.


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## splinter2 (Dec 5, 2009)

*WorkBench*

I had a cheap one till i made my way to an Auction last week and bought a Soild Wood desk (Large) 4'x7' and it has Large drawers on both sides, it works Great, I also bought another Cabnit that had a wood vice on it so i can use that Cabnit when i need a Vice, So keep in mind Auction's the one i went to was a Estate Auction, and the couple were old 1 had passed and 1 was in a Home.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

I used to watch the papers for auctions. Amazing what you can pick up. I should go back to those.


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## The Engineer (Mar 16, 2010)

*I'm building a bench with a little mix of all these ideas.*

I got a sheet of 3/4 A-C plywood, ripped lengthwise, shortened to 7 feet, then laminated to give me 1 1/2" thickness. The bottom layer has 4 square holes, 3 1/2" X 3 1/2" cut into it, 12 inches from the corners on the long sides. Bought 1 x 3 clear maple boards at Home Depot to band the top, set 1/4" higher than the top surface of the plywood. Then I cut a sheet of 1/4" hardboard to 2 feet by 7 feet to drop in the top, held on to the top sheet of plywood with double sided tape. I had left a 1" hole in the laminated plywood near one end so I can take a rod and push the hardboard top out of the frame to replace it when it gets all banged up. If you are following me up to now you know I have a top with a replacable work surface and an edge that looks like the expensive bought benches, 2 1/2" thick. 

If you add up the dimensions you see that the banding around the top hangs 3/4" below the bottom of the bottom layer of plywood. I added a 1 x 4 flat against the bottom plywood, and pulled against the maple banding. That way I can clamp to the bench top anywhere around the edge without messing up my banding; the top is solid 2 1/2" thick at the outside edge all around. The 1 x 4 is cut to leave the 4 square holes open; that's where the legs will be inserted. 

For legs I used 4 x 4 oak I got from a pallet maker and dressed down to 3 1/2" square. You could glue up some maple legs with 1 x 4s as well, but they would get a little expensive. That stuff is around $2.50 per LF around here. Any way the legs have 2 x 6 stretchers, mortised into the legs at 8" off the floor, and are self standing, very ridgid. The footprint of the legs is 2' x 5' outside to outside and they will fit into the holes I cut into the bottom layer of the plywood top. I cut a 3/4" x 3/8" deep dado into the legs on the facing short sides, 3/4" from the top. When the top is set on the legs I will cut a couple of oak 1 x 4s, about 17 3/4" long that should slide into the dados between the front and rear legs, flat up against the bottom of the top. These two boards will be screwed to the top and will serve to keep the legs attached to the bench.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hey Woodric

Another idea to consider is to keep your eyes open for any one getting rid of old steel office desks. The older, the better, it seems. They used to make them pretty solid. They are going these days at giveaway to free prices. A couple of matching desks placed end to end, with a plywood topper makes a solid and inexpensive work bench.

Gerry


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> Hey Woodric
> 
> Another idea to consider is to keep your eyes open for any one getting rid of old steel office desks. The older, the better, it seems. They used to make them pretty solid. They are going these days at giveaway to free prices. A couple of matching desks placed end to end, with a plywood topper makes a solid and inexpensive work bench.
> 
> Gerry


It sure is hard on saw blades when you cut through the topping.

g


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Thanks Gerry,
I don't need to go quite THAT cheap, I just didn't want to spend $2,000 on a professional maple rig either. I think I've found the middle ground that will get me what I need.

This has been a great thread overall for gathering ideas, and even adding a feature or two that I hadn't considered. I haven't actually started re-designing yet, but it's looking like I'll still do a laminated top, but I may just use good Doug. Fir 2x4's split down the long way, then dress them & laminate 'em. Should give me a top that's about 1-3/4" thick, that is affordable, but will last a while. The apron & tail vise will probably be maple.

I'm still tossing a coin on whether to make the base out of 4 - 4x4's with stretchers, joined with mortise & tenons, or make three torsion boxes that bolt together, so I can take it apart for storage when I'm not using it. I guess I need to consider the weight of that top. It will be a challenge to move around without the base under it.

Hmm... could make the 4x4 post base disassemble as well. It just wouldn't be as rigid for side to side movement... maybe some extra bracing . . . lol

Okay, was just thinking out loud. I need to start the re-design.

The posts on this thread have been great for giving me ideas. 
Thanks to everyone for the input.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Very Heavy and Very Strong*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/tony-b-5040/albums/workbench/


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

I've got it... Hardwood flooring.
Lumber Liquidators has utility grade Maple flooring (solid hardwood, 3/4" x 2-1/4") for $0.89 a sq ft.

So put down two layers of 3/4 ply, and a layer of 3/4" hardwood flooring. The top would be 2-1/4" thick, and Maple for a fraction of the cost.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Tony B

Sorry, i missed your post.
That's a good looking table. Looks like it would be sturdy, and economical to build.

Tempting...


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

WoodRic said:


> Thanks Gerry,
> I don't need to go quite THAT cheap, I just didn't want to spend $2,000 on a professional maple rig either. I think I've found the middle ground that will get me what I need.
> 
> "Okay, just a thought."
> ...


 
"Have fun designing and building your work bench. I know I did.":thumbsup:

Gerry


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

WoodRic said:


> That's a good looking table. Looks like it would be sturdy, and economical to build.


I think the workbench and bolts and nust ran right at around $100. I used Mirante Plywood which was relatively inexpensive. 
The Vise was a Harbor Freight Vise which saw less than 20 hours of light use before it started giving me problems. It was around 50 bucks or so and although it looked and felt substantial, it turned out to be a typical HF POS.


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## timberrat (Apr 24, 2010)

*workbench*

makeing the workbench the same height as the tablesaw is a must. than its double duty. I made my framing out of 2x4 legs in a l shape i also put 2x4 parrallel to the top on the bottom of the sort sides. and fasten them to the inside of the 2x4 framing for the top and poket hole the frame and i fasten a 4x8 sheet of mdf malomine for the top. its cheap very sturdy and makes for a excelent assembly tabe also and easy cleanup of glue that always seems to find its way to the table.:yes:


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> "Have fun designing and building your work bench. I know I did.":thumbsup:
> 
> Gerry


Thanks Gerry. I think I'm coming into the final stretch of the design phase.

The single biggest change, with the exception of the material: I'm leaving the tail vise off. I think the face vise will do everything I'll need. I just can't come up with a need for the tail vise. I can always add one later if I do.


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Tony B said:


> I think the workbench and bolts and nust ran right at around $100. I used Mirante Plywood which was relatively inexpensive.
> The Vise was a Harbor Freight Vise which saw less than 20 hours of light use before it started giving me problems. It was around 50 bucks or so and although it looked and felt substantial, it turned out to be a typical HF POS.


I've seen a lot of mixed reviews on the HF vises (actually, ANYTHING HF). You count your blessings if you got lucky & got a good one. All the rest . . .

Woodcraft has a couple of "economy" face vises that look pretty good and are still under $100. I'll most probably use one of those.


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## georgewoodie (Oct 20, 2009)

I made my own work bench using two sheets of 3/4 ply for the basic top. These are glued together. I was not able to clamp the large surfaces so I used screws to hold the sheets tightly together until the glue set. Then I took out the screws. To that I added a 1/4 inch tempered hardboard that I varnished about 8 or 10 times with floor quality material. When it was very dry, I waxed the surface for easy cleaning. I made dog holes that I find very useful. It is all edged with fir trim held in place with screws and then plugged. To replace the top I will drill out the plugs, take off the trim and change the top, then put the trim back on.

In order to improve the holding power of screws into the plywood edge, I pre-drilled and inserted plastic plugs, the kind that are used to hold on to concrete blocks. Cheap and effective.

I clean the top once a year and then apply wax. This picture was taken after the last waxing therefore no sawdust at this time. The wax permits easy cleaning of glue and varnish drips.

The legs are made of scrap 4 x 4 [fence post] with top runners of 2 x 6 and the lower ones of 2 x 4.
















I added a pair of legs to the inside [front and back] at the vice for extra support and should I need to used extra force here. Overkill as I have never needed to do that.

The vice is a quick release and the largest that I could buy. Under the vice I store longer jigs.









To the right of my vice, I built a carcass to hold drawers for hand tools and other junk.

Attached at the bottom I fastened a channel iron that would hold an upright [2 x 10] which locks into a dog hole at the top. This upright will support a long board or door. However, when I do that, I can not get into the drawers so I have to plan ahead and take out what I might need before I start.









The drawers are otherwise flush mounted and I used a finger hole rather than a pull. They do get sawdust inside them.

I wired my bench with several 110v outlets so I do not have power cords draped over the work surface.









The movable jaw of my vice is fitted with hardwood and I have a replaceable strip at the top. I have changed it once. My bench s now 8 years old.

This site allows only 4 pictures so if anyone wants to see more, I would be happy to oblige.

Woodie


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

This came up in a conversation last night.

Through this thread, and other sources, I've noticed that many people have their workbench up against a wall. It was my thought to make my bench semi-mobile so I could slide it out in the middle of the floor for working.

So, for those of you who have it up against the wall.. Is the lack of 360 degree access a problem? I would think it would severely hinder your working area.

If not, I'll build mine in and save some space.
But to be honest, I was planning to put some kind of wheels under mine so I could move it around as needed.

OR build a smaller, low "assembly" table that is on wheels, and I can do my cabinet assembly on there.

Thoughts?


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

WoodRic said:


> ....I've noticed that many people have their workbench up against a wall.....So, for those of you who have it up against the wall.. Is the lack of 360 degree access a problem? If not, I'll build mine in and save some space.....OR build a smaller, low "assembly" table that is on wheels, and I can do my cabinet assembly on there.


I like mine against the wall with the pegboard overhead. It's all about your own work habits and what you actually do on your work bench.
I use my work bench for repairing tools, holding boards in place in the vice or wedged on the top with dogs for hand planing and belt sanding and for working with small pieces to be drilled, sanded, hand tooled, etc. Most of my projects are cabinets or furniture and so I use my tablesaw outfeed table for assembly. I also have roll around carts for assembly and different shaped tables with lazy susans for spraying. I start and end every day with a clean and cleared workbench however it stays in constant use throughout the day.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

WoodRic said:


> I've noticed that many people have their workbench up against a wall.


I've got 2. One against the wall, the second against the table saw acting as outfeed support... To be honest, not having 360 degree access has yet to be a problem... I can always roll my table saw away to get access to the back side of my mid floor bench...


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## georgewoodie (Oct 20, 2009)

I have used my workbench against the wall for about 8 years now and have not been sorry that it was put there.

I was concerned about things falling off behind the bench and then having difficulty retrieving. I put some blocks on the wall just below the bench surface and placed a strip on the blocks to take all the space between bench and wall. Now I only collect sawdust there.

I have a Dremel with a cable hanging over the bench and to accommodate it, I drilled a hole to fit the cable and it resides there.

Were I to do my shop over, I would still have the bench against the wall.

I don't think I would have a bench on wheels. I want it to stand very still and firm when I am working on it.

Woodie


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## Dean Miller (Jan 29, 2009)

There are a lot of short cuts and make-do benches for less money. If you get serious about woodworking it is just a matter of time and you will be building a heavy hardwood bench with vises at both ends. Can't imagine spending significant time working wood without one.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

One big advantage to having your workbench on wheels is ease of cleaning under it. I move the bench, clean the floor, and move the bench back. 
Sometimes I like to move the bench to where I am working, which can vary with the project I am building.
As time progresses I am slowly putting the bulk of my equipment on casters for ease of use.

Gerry


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

I can see advantages and disadvantages to putting these on casters. The obvious disadvantage is that until they come up with a good workable retracting wheel system, even if you lock them, the table is going to move around when you're working on it. For most situations that may not be critical, but I could see where there would be times it could be inconvenient.

I too a stool out to the garage yesterday, and set it in the middle of where my (limited) shop space will be. Then I just sat, and visualized working in the area, and where I would want things to be. I came up with much grander plans that what my budget will allow. But I'm starting to see some shape to this.

I'm starting to think about a separate, and smaller table on wheels to use as a portable build table, for when I'm assembling "things". That one could double as the TS out-feed, and would not need to be nearly as "stout" as the workbench. Also a fair bit smaller, maybe only 4'x4' or so. That would allow me to make that one the height of the TS (36"), and leave my built-ins standard cabinet height.

Much of this will get answered when I actually start building.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

WoodRic said:


> I can see advantages and disadvantages to putting these on casters. The obvious disadvantage is that until they come up with a good workable retracting wheel system, even if you lock them, the table is going to move around when you're working on it. For most situations that may not be critical, but I could see where there would be times it could be inconvenient.


Actually, when I started building my workbench I wondered if that would be an issue. The six inch casters I put under the bench have medium soft rubber tires, and they have a fairly effective locking mechanism on all four. However, I seldom need to use the locks, because the bench is so heavy that it is a pretty good "grunt" just to get it moving.

Gerry


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## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Right this moment I realize that I need 3 components in the garage/shop.

(in order)
1) A router table
2) Lumber storage shelves on the wall
3) A good sturdy Workbench


Of the three, I'll probably start with the router table. I can make a temporary worktop by putting a piece of 3/4 ply across a couple of saw horses.
Why?
When I build things, I want the ability to round over edges & such, and I'll need the router for that. I can freehand it down a long board, but for the smaller pieces, the table & fence would be nice to have.

I've worked out a very basic router table using 2x4s, and the top will be either 3/4 ply, with layers of hardboard, and a laminate top, or 3/4 mdf. I haven't decided on that yet.

That little project shouldn't take more than a day or so. The table top itself will take the longest.

Then the lumber storage, because I have some sitting in the middle of the floor that need to move. I just need to work out a good way to secure the shelves to the wall. But that shouldn't be difficult once I set into it.

THEN I can get to the workbench. lol

I'll probably also build a smallish (3'x4') portable knock down table that I can use as an assembly area for cabinets and an outfeed for the table saw. THAT one will be on wheels. I think the permanent workbench will not.


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