# Ebonizing Wood - Black Wood Finish



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

I decided to give the ebonizing process a test run today on some left over pine scrap. I know there are a few different methods but here's the one I followed. 

Since pine is light (as is the other wood I'm planning to use) I decided adding a little extra tannin might help, and found a tip online to use some strong coffee to pre-treat the wood and let this sit for about an hour.

I mixed 1 part Copperas (Iron II Sulfate) with 2 parts water, which was about the thickest I could get the mixture. I let it set for about 30 minutes and stirred again. I filtered the mixture and used the remainder to coat the wood. I coated 3 times, allowing each to dry before applying again. 

So... 7 hours later... I now have... 

VAMPIRE WOOD! 

(excuse the Twilight reference.. been a long day)










So, where did I go wrong? After some additional reading I'm considering just using India Ink since I need this thing to be as black as possible.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you want the grain to show, try a black aniline dye (powders) AKA "lampblack", alcohol based (methanol), to the bare wood. You can vary the concentration. Try it on samples.This is a very fast method.

It's not necessary to raise the grain and resand. Once dyed, light coats of sanding sealer and lacquer, or just a waterbase polyurethane.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Thanks for the info. I actually am trying to avoid having much grain come through on this piece. I'm shooting for an ultra smooth matte black wooden work surface (much like the desk underneath that wood in the pic above). I have had a heck of a time finding a tried and true solution that will produce the color and finish I'm trying to replicate.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Fiebing makes some good stuff. Designed for leather, but works amazingly well on wood. A lot better than india ink. 
http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CCoQ8wIwAQ#

Its used on guitars to get consistent color of ebony fretboards.


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## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

japan black smooth matte finish :blink::thumbsup:


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Black Lacquer*

Here is an old (1918) desk that I stripped and sprayed black with black lacquer. Did not use and stain or dye.

The effect you get will depend on the surface you have. On red oak without grain filler the pores in the wood will telegraph through which is the desired effect by most. If you have a smooth surface it will just be a smooth black finish and no teltale signs of what the substrate is. 

So, from the photo you show, the pores of the wood are showing (black). You wont get this effect with pine.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Colt, thanks for the link. I will check it out. Plus it's a bit cheaper than India ink.

Woody, do you have a brand or idea where that can be purchased?

Tony, thanks for the pic. My fear with lacquer is that the finish will be too shiny. The actual piece I will be working with is birch. I just haven't cut it down yet so no scraps to test. The results on the pine though were enough to tell me I need to go in a different direction.


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## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

in Australia yes gabots is the brand and any paint store but in the usa i have no idea :no:


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Bofa*



bofa said:


> ..... My fear with lacquer is that the finish will be too shiny. *Lacquer can be purchase in several sheen levels from high gloss, semi-gloss, satin, flat and dead flat. In addition, you can buy a 'flattening agent' to flatten the sheen any way you want.*
> The actual piece I will be working with is birch.......*Birch has relatively no physical grain pattern and is generally used for painting. If you put any colored finish on birch it most likely will be a smooth paint finish which is commonly referred to as a black lacquer finish. Ebonizing is generally referred to as a 'look' in which the grain shows through and is most commonly done on red oak. *


I hope this info helps.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Good to know and thanks for the clarification. Where is a good place to purchase flat lacquer? The hardware stores here don't seem to carry it but I'd image they sell the regular stuff and I could probably buy the additive separately. Would a paint store like Sherwin-Williams have it? And is the lacquer the final finish or would I need to add an additional sealant?


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

You can make gloss lacquer a semi gloss or Satin with just a little bit of steel wool after it has dried.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

bofa said:


> Good to know and thanks for the clarification. Where is a good place to purchase flat lacquer? The hardware stores here don't seem to carry it but I'd image they sell the regular stuff and I could probably buy the additive separately. Would a paint store like Sherwin-Williams have it? And is the lacquer the final finish or would I need to add an additional sealant?



You could use a waterbased polyurethane instead of lacquer. It is available in any sheen, easier to use, dries fast, no where near as toxic, and is as durable.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Yeah I've been checking around here and elsewhere and everyone seems to have a different opinion. Is there a "best" way? And I guess best could depend on perspective. 

For the finish I need something solid deep black, flat/matte, smooth enough to write on paper on top of it, durable, and hopefully something that can be sprayed (not really fond of aerosol but might try it. I have a full size LP sprayer and an airbrush as well). 

Ideally it would be a fairly easy to use for a newbie. While I realize any finish will take a bit of finesse and patience, I am hoping to get this right the first time.

So... this all may sound like too much wishful thinking, hopefully that criteria helps figure this out.

I have used water based poly before though and even the flat finish ended up a bit glossy. It might have been my inexperience or the product... probably the former.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

bofa said:


> ....For the finish I need something solid deep black, flat/matte, *You can get your black lacquer - any sheen, from **woodfinishersdepot.com. Or you can get it from Sherwin Williams and buy the flattening agent from Wood Finishers Depot. You can make it dead flat if you want to.* Tony B
> smooth enough to write on paper on top of it, *I would never write directly on top of any table. Pens and pencils can be quite sharp at times.* Tony B*. *and hopefully something that can be sprayed (not really fond of aerosol but might try it. *(DONT ! If it comes out of an aerosol can it has to be quite thin and would require a gazillion coats, not to mention the spattering and sputtering from time to time.*Tony B.)I have a full size LP sprayer and an airbrush as well).
> 
> Ideally it would be a fairly easy to use for a newbie. *It dont take long to master a spray gun.* Tony B*.*
> .........


I use a vinyl sealer and pre-catalized lacquer almost exclusively. 
You can add primer and 2 finish coats, clean up and handle the piece in less than a total of 1 hour. Finishing chemicals are always up for debate on here. Look at the furniture in your house and see how well the finish held up over the years, more than likely, it was a lacquer finish.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Thanks for all the tips Tony. You make some valid points. I will
check out that site when I get home.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

I guess the pricing isn't too bad but the shipping costs are a bit over the top (understandably). I'm trying to search here locally. I did find out today that there's a Woodcraft about 10 miles away so I may see what they have tomorrow. This finish is becoming a pain in the arse and I haven't sanded the first piece yet... lol

Have any of you guys ever used talc as a flattening agent? I called Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin-Moore, ACE, Lowes and HD today... all of them say they don't have flatteners so I'm exploring my options once again.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*one more option*

Check your local refinishing shops and they may be able to help you out. Most of us have our lacquers in 5 gal cans or 55 gal drums. We usually flattening pastes also. maybe you will get lucky and get some locally. 

Tony B


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Tony B said:


> Check your local refinishing shops and they may be able to help you out. Most of us have our lacquers in 5 gal cans or 55 gal drums. We usually flattening pastes also. maybe you will get lucky and get some locally.
> 
> Tony B


What is a "flattening paste"? what is the function? A novice painter (A "right out of the can" type):smile: wants to know.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Gene Howe said:


> What is a "flattening paste"? what is the function? A novice painter (A "right out of the can" type):smile: wants to know.



It's a "flattening agent" and can be thick...hence...called paste. It takes the shine down the more you add.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

A flattening paste is used to change the sheen (downward)of certain finishing products. For example, if added to high gloss it could make it a semi-gloss, satin, dead flat finish etc, depending on how much of this stuff you use. It contains various particles to break up the light and thus break up the shine.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

I struck out at Woodcraft. No black lacquer, no flat lacquer, and no flattening agents. I did manage to pick up some vinyl sealer, steel wool, and some fine sanding pads for this and another project. I also scoped out some nice wood for future projects maybe and almost had the wife convinced that I should get a lathe (she wants a pen.. lol)

I ran into another woodworker there (woodworkers seem to be a very friendly community.. much different than some of my other hobbies) and he suggested mixing a poly with some acrylic black paint. It's an idea I'll keep in mind. 

The guy running the store chatted with me for a bit during my search for lacquer. He suggested just going with the gloss for the first 2 coats and then do the final with the flat. The problem is.. no flat yet and no flattening agents. I do recall reading similar advice elsewhere, 2 coats of gloss and after the 3rd, hit the surface with some 000 steel wool. But after finding the store was pretty low on those supplies, he eventually suggested the vinegar and steel wool trick for the black. I swear I'm going in circles at this point...

So, I'm going to try some steel wool and vinegar on some scrap to see how it turns out. I figure if it doesn't work, I don't have a lot invested and can just say screw it and go with poly. That said... I have a few questions again. 

Should I still plan to use the sealer under the vinegar/steel wool concotion or just apply directly to the wood?
Would a light sanding between coats help or hinder the color process?
For the finish, I suppose I will then use a clear gloss lacquer since it's easy to find. Maybe go with two coats on the desk top area and then try roughing up the final coat with the fine sanding pad (or just order some flattener online.. at least it doesn't have a $25 hazmat fee + $30 shipping). Does this sound reasonable?


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Hmm forgot about the Fiebing dye mentioned above too. I swear I should get a little of every method mentioned and try them all out just for comparison. I think my question with that and India ink is how much would I need. Most come in 2-4oz containers and I have no idea how far that will get me. 

One additional question.. anyone know if the vinegar/steel wool can be applied using a sprayer?


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## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

this is japan black http://www.feastwatson.com.au/pdfs/FeastWatson_Back_Japan_Floors.pdf
:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

I tried out a few methods this morning on some scrap and I have to say... the lacquer mixed with a little black acrylic paint looks wonderful and covered with the fewest coats. I think this is the route I'm going to take.


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## modpod77 (Jul 25, 2010)

woody woodturner said:


> this is japan black http://www.feastwatson.com.au/pdfs/FeastWatson_Back_Japan_Floors.pdf
> :thumbsup::thumbsup:


this is helpful, thank you:thumbsup:


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

@#$%... so in researching spraying lacquer, it appears I do not live in a location that will be suitable for lacquer finishes for a few more months. Anything above 60-65% is very bad from what I've found. Where I live we are constantly in the high 80% to mid 90% for humidity. No paint booth access. 

So, it looks like I'm stuck with poly. Will the box stores tint poly or will I need to order the tints myself? I need to try to finish this up this weekend if possible.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

And can acrylic paint be used in tinting water based poly?


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Sorry to keep posting... easier to post new reply from my phone. =)

I'm seriously considering painting all surfaces with black acrylic thinned with denatured alcohol so I can spray. Then using water based poly for the exposed surfaces and to use fine sanding pad to get the matte finish.


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## Grain Man (Jun 26, 2010)

Colt W. Knight said:


> Fiebing makes some good stuff. Designed for leather, but works amazingly well on wood. A lot better than india ink.
> http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CCoQ8wIwAQ#
> 
> Its used on guitars to get consistent color of ebony fretboards.


Agreed. 

I needed to do this to a fretboard a while back, and I spent a good week digging into this. 
India ink is a pigment, which is not nearly as good as a dye.
Bottom line is fiebings leather dye is a much better method.
In fact, Stewmac sells fiebings specifically for ebonizing fretboards.


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## Grain Man (Jun 26, 2010)

bofa said:


> Hmm forgot about the Fiebing dye mentioned above too. I swear I should get a little of every method mentioned and try them all out just for comparison. I think my question with that and India ink is how much would I need. Most come in 2-4oz containers and I have no idea how far that will get me.
> 
> One additional question.. anyone know if the vinegar/steel wool can be applied using a sprayer?


It's tough to say, but it only took a very small amount to do a fretboard.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Colorant*

I recently bought 844 Colorant from Wood Finishers Depot. It was "Lamp Black". I needed it to color crackle lacquer a jet black color. 
The colorant comes in quantities as small as 4 oz. bottle. This will color 1/2 gal of pre-cat lacquer - clear which you can get from Sherwin Williams or any other reputable paint store. The 844 Colorant is referred to as a Universal Colorant.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Thanks for the tip Tony. If the acrylic is a bust this weekend I'll give that a shot next.

So here's the game plan... After I finish sanding, I'm going with the Bullseye 1-2-3 primer. Then 2 coats of the black acyrlic paint (mixed 2:1 with denatured alcohol). I'm going with the Satin Polycrylic finish, probably 1-2 coats on the internals and 3 coats on exposed surfaces, sanding between. If the final sheen is too glossy I'm going to hit it with a ultra fine 3m pad. All coats will be air sprayed in the shade outside. 

That said, any last minute tips or ideas (that don't involve too many new materials.. lol)


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

bah! Florida weather... no go on the project due to rain. Hopefully I can get in a day or two without rain this week.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Well, I managed to get the primer sprayed outside this weekend but had to move everything inside before too long. I applied the black using a brush and I have to say it went on very well and looks great so far... smooth deep black. 

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get to the poly-crylic. I think I'm going to have to apply by hand. :blink: I'm not to fond of applying this stuff... hope it goes well.


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