# Half lap joint on deck planks for gate?



## Lennyzx11 (Dec 14, 2019)

I started building a farm gate out of 5/4x6 deck boards yesterday and ran into something that seems like there should be a more efficient way so I’m asking for advice.
Thank you.

I futzed through it but I have more gates to build to match and would like to learn a better way.

I want to half lap all corners and the X in the middle glued and screwed for strength.
These will be double thickness with fence grid wire sandwiched between in the middle.

I know how to do a half lap but my trouble was on the longer 9 ft horizontal pieces.
I tried the circular saw kerfing across and breaking out, cleaning up with a chisel, router which I think using a larger base/jig may work after reading up last night. It couldn’t span the area with the stock footprint and would tip. 

I ended up using the method below but that meant carrying the 9 ft pieces up into my second story wood shop and cutting them there and bringing back down.










On the shorter 50” verticals, I used a circular saw set at half the boards depth to set the cheek cut and then the table saw with the board vertical and blade raised all the way and then flipped the board to cut the other side same way. Then did same on opposite end of board.
A pencil mark on the saw table and marks on the outside of the board showed me where to stop the cut.
Then used the bandsaw to cut the triangle out inside that the tablesaw didn’t reach.










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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

What you have done is alright. I would recommending using an exterior glue though. Gravity tends to make the joints pull apart over time and the glue would help.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

With long, heavy boards, bring the (circular) saw to them. With lighter, small boards, bring them to the (table) saw. Kerfing and chiseling out the waste is the mot common way done "on site". A router with a dado or rabbet bit will make it a bit easier, but not a great deal.
Just make a wider base for your router and use stops to prevent "over running" your lines. Knock out most of the waste before using the router like you have, it will save wear and tear on the bit and the motor.

Years ago, Craftsman sold a small 3 1/2" dado for your circular saw. I found a few on Ebay and I snatched them up a while back:








Sears Craftsman Dado Set No. 3268 for Circular Saw - Complete Set in Case | eBay


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Use an edge guide to keep your angles correct for the circular saw, at least to start with and mark the lines accurately first OR make a jig for them that straddles the deck boards.

They will look real nice when finished! Good Job.

I used half laps on this deck gate and they have held up great:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I use through bolts and a metal plate at all critical joints. Never had a gate sag or come apart. End poles in the ground rot off first. I am just going through that problem right now with the gates on both sides of my house. Already replaced one. Replacing with vinyl. Boy, is that stuff light. Letting a contractor take care of it this time. It is my personal joints that keep me from doing the job.

George


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Clamping it up in a vise and using a fat chisel probably wouldn't kill you. It's a lot more tedious, but you do get a lot more control of what gets cut away on difficult edges and corners..


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## Lennyzx11 (Dec 14, 2019)

Well, I got it done and it is tight.

I’m going to make a jig but I stumbled onto something that allowed me to finish this one. 

I cut the cheek line with the circular saw set to half. Then kerfed every 1/8” or so. Then chiseled/broke off the scrap.

But I left the center one inch in and used that to help steady the router
And cleaned up the bottom of each side of that. Then I broke out the middle and used a 3/4 chisel and mallet to smooth that out. 




















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