# Joining Barn Lumber



## cibula11 (Feb 14, 2008)

I just picked up 3 pieces of 100 yr old 2x8 barn lumber. I want make a table top from the pieces. They haven't been de-nailed so needless to say they are in the "rough" stages. I will be joining 4 pieces, but I wasn't sure of the best way. I don't want the finished product to be too perfect, but rather a rustic top combined with an industrial/modern legs. I only have a router and table saw, so should I 1.) Line the boards up and join them the way they are 2.) rip a small portion from the egdes and then join

Secondly, should I use a spline joint or dowels or something else?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Old Barn Wood!*

First, I would get a hand held metal detector or stud finder, and check for nails. Harbor Freight has one for $30. Rare earth magnets would work if you "scan" the wood with them they will find a nail. You didn't say how long the boards are or how long you want to make the table top. You will need a straight edge to "join" the boards, which can be done with a factory edge of plywood or Masonite as a guide, and a circular saw.
Or you can make a straightening sled for your table saw. It's a platform longer and wider than your workpiece, with a miterslot guide underneath. You start out with a piece that's wider than the dimesion from the miter slot to the blade, then attach the 3/4" x 3/8th" guide underneath, then make the first rip, which will cut off a strip to the left of the blade and give you a saw cut line. Place the work piece of top of the sled and locate it slightly over the cut line. Hold the workpiece on the sled with rough sandpaper or some hold down clamps. Obviously you will need infeed and outfeed supports. 
Or, you can just screw a straight edge to the boards and rip one straight edge on the opposite side using the table saw. Once you get one good edge just flip the board, and make another rip to make the other edge parallel. If you want a rustic look, leave the old edge on the 2 outside boards, but the center board will need 2 straight edges for glue up. The same concepts will work with the router,(attaching a straight edge as a guide) but it will take a 2" long bit, 1/2" shank, and a good sized router.
I don't think you'll need any dowels or splines or bisquits, since you are not trying to perfectly align the boards, but they would be optional, in my opinion. I'd use Titebond glue and immediately clean off the squeeze out after clamping to prevent staining. I assume that you'll need to have about 6 pipe clamps for an 8' long table.
Wear a flak jacket and eye protection!:thumbsup: bill


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

Bill (man your up early) has some great ideas and very sound - we built a table out of my father-in-law's barn wood. Everything was left as is - except the jointing edges and the bottom of the table. The top looked old and rustic and carried the nail marks, bug holes, ect. The bottom was smoothed to get a flat surface to work with (and no one looks at the underside anyhow), ends were left rough. The jointing edges were smoothed to get a good gluing edge and also doweled. Also making the bottom smooth still left the top with some of the board a little higher than the other,a few days outside weathered the edges that we smoothed and a small hammer took care of the rest.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Larry, I live to type...heh..heh!*

I think these forums can be addictive. Someone always needs some help/advice and I guess the "good samaritan" comes out in me. 
60 yrs of working with wood and tools doesn't hurt either. I forgot to mention the "Powder Post Beatles" sometimes found in old wood. A good dousing with a "green" pesticide wouldn't be a bad idea.
I also forgot that a handplane in the right hands could straighten the edges, but that wouldn't have been my first choice,, something about work and sore joints.....and I have a jointer or 2 and a power plane, There's another concept. The ideas just keep coming!
I also liked your story "off topic"! Off to reload some rounds, find my cuffs and the pepper spray, :yes: bill


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## cibula11 (Feb 14, 2008)

Thanks for the input. The legs are a "U" shape with the outside edges of the table the only place where they will connect. I know in a perfect situation the glue-up would result in a strong joint, but since I'm a novice at this, would it hurt to add s few dowels to be on the safe side? I guess I'd like it to look rustic, but obviously I won't be able to join edges that are severely bowed or warped.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Roddy Mc Dowels?*

A "properly prepared, squared and glued" wood joint is stronger than the wood itself, tests have shown. :thumbsup: I wouldn't use dowels myself, since they have to be on center and perpendicular, the holes have to be identically located on each mated piece, and in the"panic" of glue up if one is misaligned... ....it's a big problem. They don't add strength in the cross direction of your application. End grain to long grain is a different story. The legs as I understand your explanation will only be attached to the outermost planks. Yes? Leaving the center plank unsupported? The wood wants to move across it's width as humidity changes, not much in length. So the method of attaching the legs should allow for a slight movement...1/16th to 1/8th" ? This old wood can have moisture in it so it should room acclimate for a while before attaching the legs. You said the legs would be contemporary...welded steel perhaps? With a cross piece at the bottom, a "U" shape as you described? Maybe some slots or oversize holes in the underneath attachment plate, so the wood can move, but not rattle.:yes:
Good Luck, bill :icon_cool:


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## cibula11 (Feb 14, 2008)

You are correct in saying that the pieces would be unsupported from underneath. Would I need some sort of material (wood or steel) running perpendicular on the underneath side of the table? Or just making sure the pieces have a chance to move would be enough? Yes the legs are pre-made for a table so it would be a matter of simply (tongue in cheek) attaching them to the table top.


similar to this...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Reclaimed_Wood_Table/#


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