# Chessboard build questions



## chirpfarm (Jan 30, 2012)

So, I've decided that I want to build my brother a chessboard similar to the below as a college graduation present.
















However, haven't tackled anything like this before, so I've got a couple questions for the experts out there.

1. Why aren't chessboards end-grain? Most all the boards I've researched have been long-grained instead of endgrain like some of the cool cutting boards I've seen on here.

2. I wanted to put a frame around the board to trim it out, but I was worried about expansion until I saw the second pic. It looks like for that board, they allow the chessboard itself to float on top of a frame using those metal clips. Anybody know where I could find them?

3. For making the frame, it looks like I could just follow the tutorials on picture frame making I've seen on here recently?

Again, I haven't done anything like this before, but I like to challenge myself, so if anybody's got any pointers I'd really appreciate them. TIA.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Rocker for sure sells the table top fasteners/ clips. I think I have also seen them in Lowes but not 100% on that.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Chirp, it's easier to build the board face grain than end grain. Prep your material for squares by joining 2 (or 4, or all 8) long boards and then cutting those into segments for the board. A lot easier than trying to align them end grain. Also finishes nicer.

Here's a pic of one I did a while back.


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## Duncancruiser (Dec 6, 2011)

What wood did you use sawdustfactory


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

It's walnut and maple with a bubinga border.


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

Here's how I do it.









For mounting Table tops etc.. I use these Shelf clips and drill 1/4" holes.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

If you've ever leveled and sanded an end grain cutting board, you'd know why side grain is a preference. Plus, you can run it through a planer after glue-up - if you have a planer that's big enough. Running end grain through a planer is potentially hazardous.

That looks like a great project. Good luck with it!

Bill


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## chirpfarm (Jan 30, 2012)

sawdustfactory said:


> Chirp, it's easier to build the board face grain than end grain. Prep your material for squares by joining 2 (or 4, or all 8) long boards and then cutting those into segments for the board. A lot easier than trying to align them end grain. Also finishes nicer.
> 
> Here's a pic of one I did a while back.
> View attachment 44333


Thanks Sawdust. I know its easier, but I didn't know if there was some other reason. I noticed from some of the "professional" sites that they pointed out the matte finish on the boards so that glare wouldn't affect the "discriminating player". I didn't know if it was something similar with the end grain. How'd you attach the frame to the board? Have you ever had problems with expansion?


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## chirpfarm (Jan 30, 2012)

dodgeboy77 said:


> If you've ever leveled and sanded an end grain cutting board, you'd know why side grain is a preference. Plus, you can run it through a planer after glue-up - if you have a planer that's big enough. Running end grain through a planer is potentially hazardous.
> 
> That looks like a great project. Good luck with it!
> 
> Bill


Well, I haven't done either and I don't have a planer, so I'm looking at some extra work either way.  I just made myself a router sled that I just tested out. It needs some tweaking, but it's what I plan on using to smooth it out after glue-up.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Don't tell Cabinetman, but I used biscuits to attach the frame. The board was for a friend and I occasionally inquire about expansion, but so far no issues. On that note, all the wood for that project had been in my shop for quite a while and all of it was at 9% (my normal here) moisture.


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## Evilfrog (Aug 2, 2011)

I believe cutting boards are end grain because end grain absorbs being by a knife so much better.


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

I think an end grain board will look cool. Do what you like most.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I've never built or seen an end grain chess board. Too hard to build and would move like a mother unless it was 3" thick or more. Beautiful grain is what you are after. Your going to spend a lot of time looking down on it.


Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## chirpfarm (Jan 30, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies everyone, I'll post once I get it finished. I just tested out my new router sled tonight, and it looks like it should work pretty good once I get everything glued up. Now I've just got to go buy some wood...


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## toocool (May 16, 2012)

DST said:


> Rocker for sure sells the table top fasteners/ clips. I think I have also seen them in Lowes but not 100% on that.


I saw them at Home Depot as well.


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## nostrildamus (Feb 24, 2009)

If you want an easy shortcut, you can buy a pre-assembled veneer chessboard at constantines.com


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## chirpfarm (Jan 30, 2012)

nostrildamus said:


> If you want an easy shortcut, you can buy a pre-assembled veneer chessboard at constantines.com


Now what fun would that be?


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

nostrildamus said:


> If you want an easy shortcut, you can buy a pre-assembled veneer chessboard at constantines.com


Ouch!

$76 for 1/32" by 18" with 1 3/4" squares.


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## Medic716 (May 10, 2011)

Here the the one I bin working on. It's always better to make your own and probably cheaper


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## Medic716 (May 10, 2011)




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## chirpfarm (Jan 30, 2012)

Medic716 said:


> View attachment 44636


That's pretty sharp Medic. I'm still working on understanding wood movement, so I've got to ask: have you done anything to account for expansion, or do you think it won't be a problem? Just trying to learn... I'd hate to build this for him and have it crack in two :thumbdown:


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## Medic716 (May 10, 2011)

The playing area it made out of purple hard and cherry. The purple hart is pretty stable so that should not be a problem and it's 1/4 inch. Glued to 1/4 oak plywood that really steamed to stabilize it. It was in the garage for over 3 week un finished and had some big swings in the weather. Cold to hot heavy rain to over a week of dry weather with no noticeable movement at all. The one thing I think helps is that I had all the wood for a while so should be all around. The same starting moisture content.


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## Medic716 (May 10, 2011)

http://www.woodworkerssource.com/movement.php


Here is a wood movement calculator that might help


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