# how do I epoxy my natural shaped bar top?



## simitch01 (Nov 17, 2010)

I've got a bar top that consists of a 2.5" thick slab of white oak which on the patron side of it is the natural outer tree shape that slants at a downward slope of about 45 degrees or so... I stained it and coated it with 2 coats of oil based laquer but the laquer seems to keep soaking in and I'm not getting the results I would like. The only reason that I went with laquer is because I couldn't figure out how to finish it with pour-on epoxy because of the slope on the one side.

Now I'm thinking that I might be able to do it if I found some type of removable molding putty to form a barrier along the natural side and sand it later.

Am I completely screwed or do I still have options?

P.S. I'm not an experienced wood worker.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

simitch01 said:


> I stained it and coated it with 2 coats of oil based laquer but the laquer seems to keep soaking in and I'm not getting the results I would like.


*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

You mentioned "oil based lacquer". You might be mistaken about what you are calling what you used. Here is a few tips that I've posted before.

The work area should be absolutely clean, with no moving air. Don't clean, brush off, blow off, or sneeze in or near the work area. If the top has any cracks, knots or holes, they should be plugged/filled with epoxy prior to the pour. The top should be sitting level.

Have the top in an easy to work and move around area. Cover the floor with drop cloths. Visqueen (brand or other brands of clear plastic sheeting) the area completely.

*Mixing:*
When ready, do not stir either container per se, but rather use a stir stick and slowly pass the bottom of the can for any settling that may have occurred. Slowly mix equal parts so as not to create any bubbles.

*For tops that will have an edge with overflow from the top pour:*
Use a brush and coat the edges with the mix so when the top is poured it will have a clear run on the edges. Pour from the center of the top near the end and slowly work your way to the other end. For long tops, pour from the center to the outer ends. Allow the mix to run off the edges until you get coverage all the way around. Once cured you can repeat the pour for a thicker coating.

When the consistency gets to a gelled state, take a knife and cut off the excess from under the top.

*For tops with a captive edge:*
Depending on the height of the pour desired, you may want to do two pours. If you get ¼" to ⅜" minimum per pour that is fine. 

*Right after the pour:*
Use a propane torch passed over the top (keep it moving), keeping the flame tip off the epoxy. This will heat up the material so any bubbles will rise and dissipate. Using a heat gun or a hair dryer may cause a gelling or areas that kick too soon, due to the hot forced air. Block or belt sand the cured epoxy off the bottom and ease the sharp edge where it ran off, and it was cut off.












 









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## LuckyInd (Nov 16, 2010)

I made a 3 inch thick white pine 5' x 7' island made of with the outer tree shape.
I used masking tape to prevent to pour-on epoxy from running off. After curing I sanded that corner edge with a nice radius. Then I brushed the "bark" sides with the several coats of the pour-on epoxy. Worked well for me.
I do not know if you'll have a reaction to the laquer you have put underneath.


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## mec2137 (Dec 1, 2010)

*Bartop*

I recently coated a bartop area with Parks Super Glaze. For the most part it I am pleased with the results. However, I apparently didn't seal a few of the cracks in the grain well enough during the prep and kept getting nonstop bubbling until the cure. This despite hitting it with a torch. Now I have about 10 dimples on the bartop.

My questions are - 1. Will another pour ruin the look? 2. Should I attempt to brush more epoxy into the dimples directly before the pour? 3. Is there any kind of prep I should do to the first glaze layer before a second pour? 

Thanks for any help.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I have done litteraly hundreds of live edge tops with the pour on epoxy. There are several tricks to it that I have found out but the biggest thing is just brush on a liberal coating onto the live edge only and let it drip off. After that then do a full pour onto the top and use a brush to gently pull the epoxy over the edge and coat the edges for a second time.

For mec2137 just do another full pour and it should come out perfect. Make sure you scuff the surface with a fine sandpaper or scotchbrite pad first. Yes any cracks or holes can cause grief and you just have to learn the tricks. The biggest thing I can say about cracks or holes is to do a coat over just those areas and try to fill them as best you can before you do a full pour. A plastic spatula is great for trying to work the epoxy into the cracks or holes.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I did these two bar tops in a restaurant in Mooresville NC. I poured both of these in one day and was a 7 gallon pour. Biggest epoxy top I've done to date.


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