# Block Plane Mouths



## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

SO I have these two block planes that I got for $5 and $2 this past weekend at garage sales. They are the only block planes I have. Both are 220's.. one made in usa and one made in england (more modern).

Below I have the blade set on both so they just start shaving--like very fine ribbons. Notice the top one's (the english made modern 220) iron is about 1/2 way into the mouth whereas the bottom one (the older usa made 220) is just barely into the mouth.

Is the bottom one useful at all with that big of a mouth opening? Is the top one good enough for most things? Between the two do I still need to buy a 9 1/2 with adjustable mouth or can I get by with these fine?


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

The 220's do have large mouth openings. I use mine mostly to ease an edge, or put a small chamfer on. Get them super sharp, they work well. A 9-1/2 with an adjustable mouth works well for light end grain work, like trimming the ends of dovetails.


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

+1 to Brinks input. Just make sure it's super-sharp and held on tight. It helps to hold the 220 at a slight angle when cutting - turns it into a cheap skew plane. It will do for most general block-plane work until you can find a 60-1/2.


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

THe only block plane one needs is the 60 1/2 ? I won't waste my time buying any others if so. Thinking about the veritas low angle block plane--it don't look ugly like some of their other planes.

How about a stanley low angle block plane.. 60 1/2.. the modern ones? Are they ok? I think I can get for $40 new. If they have problems, what kind of problems? I might have spare parts from these 220's for it.

Amazon has this SW one for $77 : Amazon.com: Stanley 12-139 Bailey No.60-1/2 Low Angle Block Plane: Home Improvement


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

woodgeekess said:


> THe only block plane one needs is the 60 1/2 ? I won't waste my time buying any others if so. Thinking about the veritas low angle block plane--it don't look ugly like some of their other planes.
> 
> How about a stanley low angle block plane.. 60 1/2.. the modern ones? Are they ok? I think I can get for $40 new. If they have problems, what kind of problems? I might have spare parts from these 220's for it.
> 
> Amazon has this SW one for $77 : Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-139-Bailey-No-60-1-Angle/dp/B002B56CVI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332800751&sr=8-1


I wouldn't say a 60-1/2 is the only block plane needed, but they sure are nice. Any adjustable mouth can be made to work well, my highly refurbed 18 is one of my favorites. 

I don't have a low angle anything, yet. But like Joe said, skewing the plane helps out immensely. 

Those new sweetheart's I think I'd like, but with three in college, that kind of buying is on hold.


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

woodgeekess said:


> THe only block plane one needs is the 60 1/2 ?


What is this word "need" I keep seeing on this forum???? I speak German and Arabic and it's not that, must be French??
And why stop at just one block plane? It's not like you're collecting full-sized steam engines or 1:1 scale models of your favorite architectural landmarks. They're block planes - they fit in the palm of your hand. You can cram a dozen in a drawer. You could get those flat tupperware bins from Walmart and store 500 safely under the bed for planing emergencies. :laughing: Here's a few from my insurance photos. The 60-1/2 is my personal favorite. That's why there is the one up front and the other three in the back as spares. 2nd from the left up front is a Sargent low angle knuckle-joint. It's very nice, but I have small hands so I like the thinner 60.5 more. The LN on the far right is something I bought in a moment of weakness back in 2004 as a retirement gift to myself. It is comfortable, and it holds an edge forever but it's not quite as thin as the 60.5. Between them is a Stanley 140. That one has a skewed cutter and the side can be removed to make it a rabbet plane. It all comes down to what feels good to you, and what you want it to do.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

joesbucketorust said:


> What is this word "need" I keep seeing on this forum???? I speak German and Arabic and it's not that, must be French??
> And why stop at just one block plane? It's not like you're collecting full-sized steam engines or 1:1 scale models of your favorite architectural landmarks. They're block planes - they fit in the palm of your hand. You can cram a dozen in a drawer. You could get those flat tupperware bins from Walmart and store 500 safely under the bed for planing emergencies. :laughing: Here's a few from my insurance photos. The 60-1/2 is my personal favorite. That's why there is the one up front and the other three in the back as spares. 2nd from the left up front is a Sargent low angle knuckle-joint. It's very nice, but I have small hands so I like the thinner 60.5 more. The LN on the far right is something I bought in a moment of weakness back in 2004 as a retirement gift to myself. It is comfortable, and it holds an edge forever but it's not quite as thin as the 60.5. Between them is a Stanley 140. That one has a skewed cutter and the side can be removed to make it a rabbet plane. It all comes down to what feels good to you, and what you want it to do.


I need me some of that! 

Seriously though, I have two blocks, a low angle woodriver and a Craftsman 220 knock off. They both do good for what I want. Someday the Veritas, but blocks are so easy to find and tune up. My sons POS blue Stanley 220 I got him for Christmas evens works ok. I make adjustments with a hammer more than the knob, but he loves it (he's only 4 what kid wouldnt?)


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## Rwelch (Mar 11, 2012)

Brink said:


> I wouldn't say a 60-1/2 is the only block plane needed, but they sure are nice. Any adjustable mouth can be made to work well, my highly refurbed 18 is one of my favorites.
> 
> I don't have a low angle anything, yet. But like Joe said, skewing the plane helps out immensely.
> 
> Those new sweetheart's I think I'd like, but with three in college, that kind of buying is on hold.


My two favorites are my old Stanley 18 and my lie-Nielsen 60 1/2. They cover almost any task that you could throw at them. That being said I own a dozen or so different block planes that sit around and collect dust because of it.


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

What advantage does the adjustable mouth have over the 220. At smoothing depth my 220's iron edge is 1/2 way into the mouth. Under what circumstances would I want that gap to be smaller (or larger)? Can I do most things one does with a block plane with the 220 or do I really need the adjustable?


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

The adj. mouth is just very convienient . If your putting a slight bevel on a highly figured piece, or trimming end grain, like on a dovetail, sometimes helps make a cleaner cut if the mouth is closed up to the point that the shaving just pass through.


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## Murphy's Law (Dec 15, 2011)

Man! I can see that I need to learn about planes. I have had two old block planes in my shop for many years and I hardly ever use either. In fact I couldn't put my finger on one right now as I don't know where they are. Is there a place for a "plane novice" to learn about them? Books or websites?


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Youtube, lots of videos. Rob Cosman has great DVDs and books. Garrett Hack's Handplane book. Lie Nielson has some great videos on youtube.


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