# Planer, Thicknesser or Both?



## Chrome

I'm a little confused and could do with some help (perhaps I'm just dumb?).

In the past for projects that call for it I've always bought planed and finished wood, and otherwise have a pretty good spec of equipment throughout the workshop. But now I'm doing quite a bit of work re-cycling/reclaiming wood, so I'm wanting to expand the workshop equipment to include more wood prep equipment.

Having never used either, I'm considering whether I want a thicknesser or a planer or both (perhaps even both in one machine).

I've been looking at the Jet JPM-13 CSX 330mm Thicknesser as well as the Jet JPT - 310 Planer Thicknesser combined unit.

I'm making all sorts of stuff commercially that I want to be able to use consistantly thickness of wood for. But I also want to cope with wood wide enough to make solid guitar bodies (which is really just a hobby), so ideally want to be able to handle hardwood up to about 14 inches wide, but might have to compromise based on budget.

Surely if I have a thicknesser I don't need a planer do I? To me it looks as if a planer takes a layer off the bottom as it's passed over the blades, but a thicknesser takes it off the top. What is the difference and what is it best to use each for?

I know the answer is probably best to get two separate units. but a single one appeals due to space restrictions. What do you think?

Cheers, Chrome


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## DaveTTC

I have no problem with combination machines. As you state, often it is an issue of space. If you have limited space and you are the only one on the work shop a combo machine sounds the go. If you have a bit more space and especially of others work with you then independent machines would be more ideal. 

At a recent wood show I saw a newer design cutter drum for a surface planer. It had small 4 sided blades that screwed to the drum. They were screwed in a spiral pattern around the cutter head / drum. In a demo they planed the end grain of a large piece of wood and it did not chip out the end of the cut. It had been a while since I had looked at new larger machinery so it was the first I had seen like it.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## GeorgeC

When I Google "thicknesser" all I come up with is a planer.

What is the difference between a thcknesser and a planer?

George


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## woodnthings

*It's a UK thing*

In the UK a "planer" is what we call a jointer. They use the term "thicknesser" for what we call a thickness planer. 
Craftsman has caller their jointer a planer for a long time. It adds to the confusion especially for those new to the field. :yes:

A brief explanation:

A jointer works from the bottom of the work, can make an uneven board straight and flat.

A planer works from the top of the board and will make that straight and flat board an even or constant thickness.


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## DaveTTC

In Australia the jointer is also called a buzzer. 

While a thicknesser is also known as a planer or a thicknesser planer I am aware that to some a planer is what is known as a jointer or buzzer. 

Personally a planer to me is either a hand plane or hand held electric plane

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## knotscott

Both is the way to go IMO. The jointer (planer) flattens and squares a board to give a reference face and 90° adjacent edge. A thicknesser makes the top side of the board parallel to the bottom side at a consistent thickness....if that board happens to be twisted, it'll come out still twisted, but smoother and thinner. It needs a flat reference face in order to make the opposite side flat too, and that task is best done with a jointer/planer. It's possible to coax a thicknesser into flattening if you use a sled to represent a flat reference face, but it's more cumbersome and it doesn't square an adjacent edge, so you'd need to move to another tool like a TS or router for a squared edge. 

*Jointer /Planer:*

















*Thicknesser (planer in the US)*:


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## cabinetman

woodnthings said:


> In the UK a "planer" is what we call a jointer. They use the term "thicknesser" for what we call a thickness planer.
> Craftsman has caller their jointer a planer for a long time. It adds to the confusion especially for those new to the field. :yes:
> 
> A brief explanation:
> 
> A jointer works from the bottom of the work, can make an uneven board straight and flat.


Both machines mill the surface by means of a rotating cutterhead positioned at 90 degrees to the grain. There is a difference in how the jointer does it compared to a planer. It has an adjustment in the table height to account for how much material is milled off. The machine looks different than a planer. Here is a picture of a jointer...
.







.
The terminology of "jointer" is also used for the tool sometimes called a "plate jointer" AKA "biscuit jointer"...
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woodnthings said:


> A planer works from the top of the board and will make that straight and flat board an even or constant thickness.


A planer does mill from the top of the board, with the cutterhead 90 degrees to the grain, but differently than a jointer. A planer has no adjustment for infeed to outfeed in relation to how much wood is milled off. It is set for a depth of cut, and "planes" off that amount. Planers look different than a jointer. Here is a portable planer...AKA "bench top" planer...
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.
The terminology of "planer" being electric, could be confused with what is called a "portable power plane", or "handheld power plane", which looks like this...
.
















 







.


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## cabinetman

Knotscott and I were thinking on the same lines, except my post took too long. :laughing: His post included some very good milling details. We shant forget a similar sounding tool, called a "handplane", cordless, (batteries not needed), of which there are many types...
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.


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## Fastback

The pressure rollers on a thickness planer pushes the wood down against the table forcing the wood straight even if it has a twist or cup. However, when it exits the thickness planer it returns to its original shape. 

It really is necessary to have both machines. The jointer for flating and edging and the thickness planer for bringing the work piece to size.


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## Davis jenn.

Hey Fastback. You couldn't answer a question for me. I have 3 # 3ft bye 6 inch thick slices from a oak tree that I would like to use for rustic table tops. Was wondering why u never see tops that are sliced from the tree horizontal. There always cut parallel with the treehorizontal out of the meat of the tree. Bare with me I'm new at this. Is it possible to use them for table tops


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## Dave Paine

Davis jenn. said:


> Hey Fastback. You couldn't answer a question for me. I have 3 # 3ft bye 6 inch thick slices from a oak tree that I would like to use for rustic table tops. Was wondering why u never see tops that are sliced from the tree horizontal. There always cut parallel with the treehorizontal out of the meat of the tree. Bare with me I'm new at this. Is it possible to use them for table tops


Yes it is possible to use horizontal slices, also called "cookies" to make projects, take a look in the Project Showcase forum. 

Do a search for "cookie" on the site and you will find other threads.

The challenge with a horizontal slice are :
a) Not many people want to use them, so most mills will cut the logs based on what they can sell.
b) They are difficult to dry without some cracking. The bigger the diameter, the more the piece will crack. Some of the other threads will talk about this.

Your 3ft sections will have started to crack if they were not sealed after they were cut.

I recall a thread by Daren, one of the moderators, where he had a nice piece, perhaps your size. He knew it would crack, so was trying to get it to crack in a controlled manner. He ended up adding some bowties, which looked very good.


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## DaveTTC

Dave Paine said:


> Yes it is possible to use horizontal slices, also called "cookies" to make projects, take a look in the Project Showcase forum.
> 
> Do a search for "cookie" on the site and you will find other threads.
> 
> The challenge with a horizontal slice are :
> a) Not many people want to use them, so most mills will cut the logs based on what they can sell.
> b) They are difficult to dry without some cracking. The bigger the diameter, the more the piece will crack. Some of the other threads will talk about this.
> 
> Your 3ft sections will have started to crack if they were not sealed after they were cut.
> 
> I recall a thread by Daren, one of the moderators, where he had a nice piece, perhaps your size. He knew it would crack, so was trying to get it to crack in a controlled manner. He ended up adding some bowties, which looked very good.


I know I've said it before, but I love your posts Dave They are very informative. How did you go with the balsa research.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Dave Paine

DaveTTC said:


> I know I've said it before, but I love your posts Dave They are very informative. How did you go with the balsa research.
> 
> Dave The Turning Cowboy


Thanks, I just try to explain. :thumbsup:

I found the balsa pieces.

I looked up the strength of various woods. My PC hung and I have to re-find the link.

Balsa is used for hobby work, like radio controlled aircraft. No surprise due to the light weight.

I saw many comments about "pound for pound Balsa is stronger than...."

The challenge is that it is not practical to use x in thick Balsa to match the strength of 1in pine.

I had been thinking that your requirements is not only compressive strength, bending strength, but you also need to hang decent loads.

So my next step was to install some hanger bolts in my 3/4in thick Balsa and find out how well I can thread without stripping, and what type of load the hanger bolt can take. I am expecting not much.

FYI, this is what I mean by hanger bolt. What we call a "lag" thread to go into the wood, and a machine thread for the attachment.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=40988&cat=3,43576,61994,40988

Balsa also dings very easily. This is why so many applications use a core of Balsa with e.g. epoxy or laminate surface.

I will report back later. :icon_smile:


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## Chrome

Thanks everyone... Much as I would like separate machines, I think I'll have to go with a combi unit in order to fit it in the workshop (space is at a premium). 

Cheers All, Chrome


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## Fastback

Davis, I tend to agree with Dave. I have seen tables made from oak slabs, but they tend to check or crack a great deal. It can take years for it to dry. If you seal it is will slow the crackin, but it will also slow the drying. I guess it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. I like the idea of bowties holding eveything together.


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## Chrome

Well I ended up purchasing two separate units and will have to re-arrange the workshop to cope. A 410mm (16") Thicknesser (Thicknessing Planer) and a 150mm (6") Planer (Jointer). Thanks for comments.


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## Fastback

Congratulations, I hope you will be able to show us some pictures of the new machines.


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## DaveTTC

Good decision I reckon, congratulations.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## tucsonguy1

*Jet® 8'' Bench Top Jointer/Planer Combo*

Has anyone bought one of these yet? Interested in what people think.


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## GuitarPhotographer

tusconguy, did you not notice that this thread is over 5 years old?

You will have more getting an answer to your question by starting a new thread.


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## Steve Neul

tucsonguy1 said:


> Has anyone bought one of these yet? Interested in what people think.


With any benchtop jointer they are only good for someone building small projects with short lumber. The length of the bed is critical for straightening 8' or longer lumber.


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