# Oil finishing Lignum Vitae?



## Troop (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi Guys, I'm making a pair of knife handle scales out of Argentine Lignum Vitae. Although not on the knife yet, I wanted to see how they would look, at least partially finished.
I sanded one scale down to around 200 grit, then applied a liberal coat of Watco Teak Oil. 
Well, the Lignum didn't absorb any oil to any great extent, but now it's been 2 days since the oil treatment, and I'm getting "blackish" discoloration in some of the streaks, especially the more wider ones. The wood was very slightly damp when I worked it. The discoloration really looks terrible.
Do you guys think that the blackish discoloration was due to the wood being a little damp? Or, maybe a reaction of the oil of the wood with the Teak Oil?
Thanks for any help that you guys can give me.
- Mitch


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I have oiled lignum vitae in the past with no problems. What exactly is 'teak oil' though? What's in it? My guess is that the oil caused it, but that's just a guess. Try a small scrap with a different kind of oil. Perhaps 100% tung oil. Or even mineral oil. If you don't get the bad reaction, then there's your answer.


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## Troop (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi Mark, Thanks for your reply. "Teak Oil" is a Watco product similar to their Danish Oil; it's designed to penetrate into very dense woods.
Please tell me exactly what oil you used on the lignum; I get upset every time I look at the discoloration.:wallbash:
Thanks again,
Mitch


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

Mitch,
I honestly couldn't tell you for certain, because it's been a few years ago. However, it would have been one of three possibilities. Either Watco natural, or Hope's 100% tung oil, or mineral oil.
My guess is that it was mineral oil. I'm saying that because, prior to that, I'd had some really good results on some cocobolo using mineral oil and wet sanding it with 400 grit, then 600 grit, then either pumice or rottenstone. I think I may have copied that finish on the lignum vitae. 
Do you have any small chunks you could try the mineral oil on? Are the handles able to be sanded clean again, or is the staining seeped into the grain?


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## Troop (Jul 4, 2008)

Hi Mark, I tried some plain 'ol Tung oil on the other scale, and it's doing the same thing. Hmmmm....I wonder why it's doing that!
The scales (slabs, for you non-knife guys:smile are pretty thick, approx. 1/2", and the oil didn't penetrate too far into the Lignum, due to it's oily and very dense nature, so I'm going to sand them down and try the mineral oil.
But, Mark, do you think that mineral oil will seal the Lignum sufficiently? Some pretty grubby hands, including my own, are going to be laying their hands on those knife grips. 
I need something that will seal the wood that won't chip off during hard use. I've used oil in the past with great results, but this is my first time working with the Lignum.
Thanks again for your reply,
Mitch


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Mitch,

The mineral oil will seal it but will have to be reapplied quite often if the knives get heavy use. I use it on my cutting boards and have to work in several coats every 6 months or so, even with light use.


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## Troop (Jul 4, 2008)

frankp said:


> Mitch,
> 
> The mineral oil will seal it but will have to be reapplied quite often if the knives get heavy use. I use it on my cutting boards and have to work in several coats every 6 months or so, even with light use.


Thanks for the reply, Frank. I'd like to find something a little more permanent than Mineral Oil, but, it's good to know I have something to fall back on when all else fails.
The more that I think about this discoloration phenomena, the more I'm thinkin' that it's mostly due to the Lignum still being a little wet. 
- Mitch


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

Mineral oil while good for cutting boards will never seal the wood it is not a drying oil. If you insist on appling a finish to this wood, wait for it to entirely dry and just before you apply the finish sand with 120g and 150g then wipe well with acetone.

Regards

Jerry


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## Troop (Jul 4, 2008)

jerry said:


> Mineral oil while good for cutting boards will never seal the wood it is not a drying oil. If you insist on appling a finish to this wood, wait for it to entirely dry and just before you apply the finish sand with 120g and 150g then wipe well with acetone.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Jerry


Thanks for reminding me of that technique! I'd completely forgotten all about it! I'll betcha that would "be the ticket" for the Lignum that I'm working with.
But, Jerry, it sounds like you don't think that it's a good idea that I should seal this wood. Do you think that I'd be better off without sealing it? Do you think that the Lignum is so dense and oily that it doesn't need to be sealed? Just maybe a real good sanding, and maybe a buffing?
Thanks again for your help,
Mitch


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I guess I may have misunderstood something. It seems to me that if you are using ANY type of oil, it will not truly 'seal' the wood. Any of them you choose would need to be periodically re-oiled, wouldn't they? I mean, subject to a lot of hard use, the wood will discolor from the contact with hands, dirt, etc. It will also dry out some, thus the need for occasional re-oiling. At least, this has been my experience.


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## Troop (Jul 4, 2008)

mmwood_1 said:


> I guess I may have misunderstood something. It seems to me that if you are using ANY type of oil, it will not truly 'seal' the wood. Any of them you choose would need to be periodically re-oiled, wouldn't they? I mean, subject to a lot of hard use, the wood will discolor from the contact with hands, dirt, etc. It will also dry out some, thus the need for occasional re-oiling. At least, this has been my experience.


Mark, yes, you are right. But, if I'm using a Danish Oil, or even boiled linseed oil (but to a lesser degree), it will "cure" after a few days once it's inside the wood. So, it's kind of a "pseudo-seal". Better protection against dirty hands than not having anything at all, right?
Thanks again,
Mitch


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

If it were me,after sanding and cleaning,I would quickly apply shellac(color of your choice)- shellac will stick to peanut butter.

Jerry


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## Troop (Jul 4, 2008)

jerry said:


> If it were me,after sanding and cleaning,I would quickly apply shellac(color of your choice)- shellac will stick to peanut butter.
> 
> Jerry


Thanks, Jerry. I'm very concerned about marring/chipping with shellac.
- Mitch


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