# Installing Concealed Hinge Help Requested



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Though I have been woodworking for a long time, I have never installed concealed hinges on cabinet doors. I have a new black walnut project going and me wife selected concealed hinges. The wood is too expensive for trial and error. I will practice on scrap, but still worried about missing something.

Rockler sells jugs for proper centering. Is this necessary? Is there some type of home made jig I can use.

All of the cabinets in my home that use concealed hinges use doors that are what I call face mounted. That is the whole door sits on the face of the cabinet.

I like to rabbit the edges of doors and drawers so that they are partially inset into the cabinet. Is this possible with concealed hinges, and if so does it change the mounting any?

All help will be greately appreciated.

And last, is this the best place in this forum to ask this question or is there a better major topic?

George


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

George, most of the concealed hinges I`ve seen require a 1 and 3/8s" drilled hole in the back of the door. These hinges accomadate over-lay or flush mounted doors. The only ones I`ve seen for 3/8ths rabbited inset doors require a visible notch on the edge of the door. And they can be a real pain depending on the profiled edge on the door. The Euros can also be a problem...say, an OG profile that`s too deep would interfear with the 1 and 3/8ths hole. There are some pin or knife hinges that mount top and bottom of the door. The concealed henge was designed for the euro look!... plain with on profile on the edge of door...but I`m with you...I like the 3/8ths inset doors. You need a good set-up to run the notch for the 3/8ths" inset hinge. A 3/8ths dado in a table saw...with a stop for the plow...It`s really a production hinge! Maybe someone else can give you a link to a hinge I don`t know about. Best regards Rick


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## mdlbldrmatt135 (Dec 6, 2006)

Most Euro Hinges are 35mm 1 3/8 might be snug......... IDK only ever used 35mm bits....


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

Since you are already familiar with Rockler, go to their site. They are offering a concealed hinge for lipped doors (rabbetted edge) though they are rather pricey. Search item #24964. Curent catalog lists them at $17.19 a pair I believe. The only jig you should require would be a fence on your drill press table to control the distance in from the edge for the 35mm cup hole. This and the depth will be the only CRITICAL dimensions. Distance in from the top and bottom is at your pleasure.

Ed


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

edp said:


> Since you are already familiar with Rockler, go to their site. They are offering a concealed hinge for lipped doors (rabbetted edge) though they are rather pricey. Search item #24964. Curent catalog lists them at $17.19 a pair I believe. The only jig you should require would be a fence on your drill press table to control the distance in from the edge for the 35mm cup hole. This and the depth will be the only CRITICAL dimensions. Distance in from the top and bottom is at your pleasure.
> 
> Ed


:thumbsup:

Many thanks ED. This is exactly what I wanted. From the illustration this hinge looks adjustable. That is good as it can help take care of any errors I make in installation.

I had looked at Rockler and missed these. As of now the price is $22.95, but to get what I want this is OK. This is not a cheap project. The granite top alone is costing $250. I have no idea the cost of the black walnut as I have been collecting it for years and have done no measurements to determine the number of board feet I am using.

I am also going to use the Target Coatings water based lacquer. First time I have tried this but it has been highly recommended. Expensive to get that shipped in.

Thanks again, your input has made my morning.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

At least all was going well until I actually tried to order the hinges from Rockler. They ARE OUT OF STOCK. At least now I know the manufacturer. Rockler has an estimated restock date of 23 September.

Monday I will get on the phone and see if I can find the same hinge from someone else who carries the same brand. Maybe even Salice, the manufacturer can tell me where to get.

George


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

George, I just recieved a copy of woodworker's hardware and they have a hinge on page #10 that may be just what you are looking for. It's called the "No Bore Concealed Hinge" and it appears to have a ton of applications from 3/4 overlay to full inset and several stops between. Again, it is a little pricey listed at $4.30 each with quantity discounts. Their web address is www.woodworkershardware.com

Ed


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> I like to rabbit the edges of doors and drawers so that they are partially inset into the cabinet. Is this possible with concealed hinges, and if so does it change the mounting any?
> 
> All help will be greately appreciated.
> 
> George



Is there a definite reason for you to recess the door into the cabinet?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Ed, thanks for the tip on Woodworkers Hardware. I will look into that.

Cabinetman, the main reason is that I like that type of door. I also feel that the style is somewhat more forgiving of minor errors than other styles.

I think that after much web searching and many phone calls I have the hinge I want on the truck moving this direction. Salice hinges put me in touch with Hafele America a major distributor. They had the hinge in stock, though very pricey, and are sending it to me.

Hopefully now all is well and the project can proceed. Yesterday I got the two drawers constructed and stained. I always finish the inside components. Stain a relatively dark color and only use two coats of finish.

On this project the black walnut is going to be left natural.

Thanks all.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> Cabinetman, the main reason is that I like that type of door. I also feel that the style is somewhat more forgiving of minor errors than other styles.
> George




Whether that door/hinge design is forgiving can be a subject of discussion. That design had a few thoughts when it was a popular technique. It was first thought that it would provide a dust stop, as the rabbeted step followed the opening of each door. Since that design required face frames and some with a center divider frame between doors closing together, the face frames were a design feature in addition to one thought of as structural.

Disadvantages at the onset and for many years were that the hinges allowing the 3/8" did not permit much adjustment, and most allowed none. The design also brought the face of the door closer to the cabinet, which did not permit much of an edge profile, and gave view to any out-of-adjustment between doors, or their alignment with the face frame spacing.

Depending on how much space you allow between the 3/8" offset ramp and the shoulder of the rabbet may not allow enough door adjustment. You could diminish the faceframe gaps by making narrow enough frames to bring the doors closer together. But, to get an 1/8" gap your minimum faceframe dimension would be 7/8", with adjustment only in the direction of the hinge. Then, the larger the space in between doors has the benefit of diffusing an out-of-adjustment condition.

Every door design, and manner of hinging has its pros and cons. For the flatest look demanding stringent spacing and alignment would be flush (inset) doors. I'm just sittin' here having coffee and a raspberry filled danish with a lot of that sweet icing, and felt like yaking about doors.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Huoliuhi said:


> just my two centsbump


Project was finished. Se my post under the Projects thread, Black Walnut Project Finished. The hinges turned out expensive. Be the time all was added up they were over $60 for the four.

G


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