# dust collection/contractors saw



## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

To Do list
finish screened porch project (making progress every day....uh oh, I think Verizon owns that phrase)

find a website where lots of people know much more than I do (DONE):thumbsup:

get table saw (DONE)

get dust collector (DONE)

hook up dust collector to table saw (in progress)

starting by connecting dust hood to table saw, following Kenbos setup.

What I've Done









Used a jigsaw to cut an opening in 1/4" plywood for the dust hood to sit in. I then used scrap strips (pictured below) of the plywood to cover a few gaps. Nothing is secured. The hood is just sitting on the wood. I bought some liquid nails. Should I glue the strips to the plywood I cut out? Kenbo used some screws and caulk. Necessary?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

That looks good so far. I think you made a good choice with that type of dust chute. I have a "jointer" type dust chute on mine that has less slope and I find I get a good amount of build-up along the flat sides of the chute. Your style should help to prevent that.


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

ACP said:


> That looks good so far. I think you made a good choice with that type of dust chute. I have a "jointer" type dust chute on mine that has less slope and I find I get a good amount of build-up along the flat sides of the chute. Your style should help to prevent that.



should I just let it sit there, or glue the panels to the plywood underneath? and caulk around the chute?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I screwed my chute into place. I glued, screwed and caulked the plywood around my chute to the table saw frame to make a tight seal. I wanted to be able to remove the chute though for maitenance reasons. You should be able to access the guts of your saw if you need to as we all should be providing regular maintenance to our saws. Its hard for me to reach around my motor and pulleys in the rear into the guts to clean off the screws and lube stuff. For that reason I'd screw it or use velcro. I wouldn't leave it just hang of its own weight cause I think you'll find some dust will escape around the chute.


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

"I glued, screwed and caulked the plywood around my chute to the table saw frame to make a tight seal"


demonstrating my inexperience, a pilot hole and a sheet metal screw to get into the table saw frame?


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## JimRich (Jun 10, 2011)

I just bought a used Delta 36-445, I found this article on another forum. May give you some ideas for the next step.

I just finished it, I put a reducer so I can hook up my 6.5hp shop vac, it works perfect.


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http://lumberjocks.com/MarkColan/blog/17598
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*hope that doesn't break any forum rules.


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

thanks for the info Jim!


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## JimRich (Jun 10, 2011)

No problem! Here is a couple of snapshots of mine, i found it easier just to hardboard in between the bottom of the saw case and the legs. I over drilled the holes to make it line up easier. Hope it works out for you as well as it does for me!

Remember, you will have to cut the slot for the belt much larger than then guy on that link. I made sure I had full range of motion on the blade height because of the smaller dado stack's means you need to adjust higher then with a 10" blade. If you do any angle cuts, the whole back has to be removed. If your saw is like mine, the whole motor, belt and frame moves with the tilt. :thumbsup:


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

added some mdf to the plywood to close some small gaps. will caulk.


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

and now I am working on closing the back, so that I can continue to use the blade guard.

in progress....


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

bothered kenbo with a pm on this. may as well post it on the boards as well. finally got my cover made.

I cut out for the belt
I also cut out for the screws and the metal bracket the screws go through.
I then put the belt through the opening and moved the motor into position. 

(This is where I ran into a problem.)

I had a heck of a time getting the motor belt back on because the cover needed to be flush against the saw base in order for the belt to fit, or am too weak to stretch the belt enough. 

am doing this wrong? Or do I just need to suck it up and stretch the belt more.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Ignore my PM about posting photos. It's looking awesome. I'm not sure about the answer to your belt question. Either way, nice setup.


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

with the pic above as a reference,

i then cut out for the belt.

after that, i cut out for the motor assembly to screw back in.

may have made a mistake here....i then put the silver bar (where the motor attaches to the saw) through the rectangle i cut in the middle. 
i put the belt through the opening i cut and then i tried to put everything back, stretching the belt back into position, but the cover i made squeezed my arm since as the belt got into position the cover moved tight against the saw.

working on getting a pic...


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

latest pic of template...

i cut it in half (for no good reason...for a sec, i thought i would try it in two halves.) so this piece is scrap.


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## JimRich (Jun 10, 2011)

Hey, got your PM. I cut the board the opposite direction. Horizontally. That way I could use a simple jig saw for the cuts. Also the bottom half is all you need to remove for the occasional clean out. Give me a second and I will get you a measurement and drawing...


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## JimRich (Jun 10, 2011)

Ok here is a pic and a drawing. I am far from a trained or professional drafter, but I did my best. If your saw is like mine you can start with these measurements, then trial and error your way to a good fit. As for screw holes I drilled them after the fact. I used 1/4 pan head bolts, drilled slightly smaller holes initially, then tapped the holes. Screwed the pan heads in from the inside of the saw, then twisted on the wing nuts. 

The trick is to get the back on without having to move the motor back the inner hold covers the motor support arm and allows all the fittings to be stock. Eg no stretching. 

EDIT... I used 1/4 hardboard for mine. 

Good luck and let me know if you need any more help! :thumbsup:


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

thanks so much!

will post some pics when I'm done.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Glad that you got your answer Joe. Sorry I couldn't help you on that one. By the way, you stated that you "bothered me with a PM" HOGWASH!!!! Don't ever feel that you're bothering me. I'm here to help in any way. That's why I'm a member here. If I can help, i will and if anyone wishes to PM me, I'm more than happy to take the time to read the PM and respond. Bring on the PM's!! :laughing:


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

showed this to a few people via messaging...










even if it's not essential for dust collection, figured I'd show this. this, obviously, is the top half. trying to work around the piece that the guard attaches to creates a large opening on the top left side. i know I can close the opening on the right side, but not sure about the upper left opening.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

I have one similar to yours but don't forget to take it off when you tilt the blade, I do everytime, and I keep wondering why the blade won't tilt!


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I was under my saw a couple days ago cleaning the mounds of saw dust that build up around the edges and it dawned on my that there is no reason I couldn't fab a DC shroud similar to the ones on cab saws... it would attach to the trunion and even tilt with the blade! I'm gonna get cracking on it soon.

I'm sure I'll throw some Picts up when done!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## rbdhd (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks all for the great info and I can see what I need to do to cover the back side of the saw but I'm not sure how or what I need to do to get the bottom "collector" built or do I purchase that someplace?

Thanks,
Dave


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## joetab24 (Aug 15, 2010)

are you referring to this?

dust hood


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## rbdhd (Aug 11, 2011)

That's what I'm looking for.

Thanks,
rbdhd


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

firemedic said:


> I was under my saw a couple days ago cleaning the mounds of saw dust that build up around the edges and it dawned on my that there is no reason I couldn't fab a DC shroud similar to the ones on cab saws... it would attach to the trunion and even tilt with the blade! I'm gonna get cracking on it soon.
> 
> I'm sure I'll throw some Picts up when done!
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


I have been thinking along the same line of thought. I have been thinking about a pipe fitting that is similar to a tapered register fitting w/ 4" adapter.


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## Argon (Oct 30, 2011)

First off - I am fairly inexperienced - so I will probably ask questions that are obvious to some. I have had a Delta 36-465 for some time and used it very sporadically. I usually wheeled it out the garage door and worked outside. I want to use it inside but like everyone else do not want to deal with the dust. That is how I (happily) came across this thread. Should be a Sticky.

I am at work and not all the pics are coming through. I can not see Joe's pics. I will check tonight to see if I can view at home. Question for JimRich - your model saw looks similar to mine - do you know the exact model number? I am guessing that Delta kept the same body and legs across mutiple models so your diagram may work exactly or - as you say be a good starting point. Thanks for taking the time to post. It looks like you put a layer of hardboard between the saw body and the legs - is the dust hood mounted to the hardboard? The tubing that comes out reducing down to shop vac size - is that product sold with the hood or is it pvc plumbing product? Is there a trick to separating the legs from the body without getting a hernia?


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Nicely done. I made mine from aluminum and it is more of a square funnel. I get some build up around the edges, but the steep sides send most of it straight into the vacuum's pickup.

Something I'm still confused about though is why folks close in the back of the saw. Unless you have a real dust collector ( all I have is a shop vac) what difference does it make?


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## Argon (Oct 30, 2011)

Just to bring closure - I struck out on my own based on the info here and the pictures posted. After purchasing the hood posted in a link and discovering that it was too big, I swapped it for a flatter model and completed the setup. I used the plumbing fixtures to hook in the shop vac and 2 piece hardboard similar to the posted diagram (albeit with slightly different dimensions). Put it to the test last night and it worked perfectly. None of the fine dust escaped despite quite a bit of ripping and crosscutting. The actual shavings were also contained. I did have some shavings come out the front opening where the raising wheel swings when chaging for an angled cut. I can work on that. Also looking at a Shark Guard to catch the shavings coming off the blade due to the ZCI being so tight. Thanks to the original group of posters.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I guess I'm just lucky. There is a shroud around the blade in my TS that does not allow dust and/or shavings to escape from the rear. Of course I have a flex drive (a cable not a belt), so I have more of the back side enclosed by the saw body. Still there is a fairly large opening in the back.

My biggest problem is dust on the table top due to the ZCI.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Just brainfood here......

>Look at the legs that come on a contractor saw as temporary supports.Temporary because they're only on there so that your first project.....a proper base cabmet....won't see you crawling around on the shop floor cutting out the pcs.

>When you build the cabmet,in some ways bigger is better.....if you're intending to make a seperator out of it.This is where having twin saws on a common base really comes into focus.....more rm for sheet metal shrouding and/or "organ pipe" style seperator.

>Even if you don't have DC,do yourself a favor when building cabmet and have the whole fr panel come off.Well.you'll need a smallish FF around perimeter.....but in effect the whole front can be.....say a 3/8 std cabinet dr edge profile.Well fitted and there won't be any need for further air sealing.

>The goal here is to keep as much heavy particles at the point of creation.The shop produces "X" amt of chips and dust,irrespective of how big or how $$ is thrown at dust collection.The problem is you're moving chips/dust through a system of ducts,which is in some ways creating MORE problems than its solving.

>Sheet metal wins here,hands down...WRT under saw baffle plates or tube style.....its thin.Plastic pipe and/or wood takes up a HUGE amt of space.So start looking at your tool inventory...

Nice pr of aviation style right N left,snips.

A hammer and some scrap,straight wood used as "Bucks" for bending forming.

A drill motor,1/8" drill and some pop rivets.

Pop rivet gun.....and look on the Bay for Cleco's,get a little starter kit.

Oh yeah,better brush up on your layout skills.....I find the layout to be one of the most entertaining....in a brain challenging sort of way....of just about any craft that we do here.The web is full of OLD methods and techniques.Look for laying out a round to square transition......look,there were guys doing this stuff 'round the latter part of the 19th century.Their tools weren't as complicated as anything near what the guys on this site use daily in WW'n.

So,any and ALL layout tools must be found and brought together for an inventory!Framing squres and str leg deviders are the principlas here....combo sq and deviders w/pencils(compass) are the minors.Calculator for those too lazy(me)to do the math longhand.

Heres the non-pc editorial partust collection which really should be dust management......is one of those marketed processes thats all about the money....duh,isn't most things?This ones a bit different because the industry gravitated twds what was affordable.Take that to mean theres way more than one way to skin a dusty cat.The problem is some of the alternative designs to dust control are labor heavy.....the "organ tube" style is,just like pipe orgen plumbing is,duh.BUT...if you're suppyling the labor,and get your chit together...its amazingly quick processes(sheet metal).But in that seemingly split second of labor time.....that don't sell on a price point when co's are trying to "manage" the consumer into thinking typical(for the day) dust systems are "it".

"I can name that tune in ___ steps".......Don't matter if its a long since vanished game show,bidding a remodel or cabmet job......or building/marketing DC systems.For good reasons these engineers and companies are just like us.....they have to get a product on the table.Dust control and sheet metal is one of those areas where the benny's are huge.....and one that an industry would rather you not figure out.Yeah,go down to BB store and buy plastic pipe...its a dead end street and industry know's it.The aversion WW'ers have with metal?Which still freaks me........is part of this marketing process.BW


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Alright...if that last post wasn't enough.Had an interesting conversation yesterday afternoon here at the shop.One of my contractor buddys was over dropping off some furniture.....

He grew up in the nascar world.Back in the day.Back when some of the air handling principals were "set in stone" so to speak.We had a long interesting discussion on how a simple hotdog wrapper can and does cause problems when stuck to the "grill" of a car doin laps at a super speedway.....Hotdog wrapper,or woodchips,don't matter...its still an obstruction.Getting it off the grill of a racecar is in some ways exactly like getting chips out of the airstream of a DC system.

All the air that enters a system has to be accounted for....which is why we don't just cut a hole in the shop wall and shoot dust out into the yard.Well, theres a way to accomplish this and its almost free......but the way to do this in shopworld ain't anything new.Several huge company's have taken this nascar approach.But like story in prev post.....it ain't cheap.But thats because of labor,much moreso than the "parts".But just like the hillbillys in the early days of stock car racing,with a little ingenuity and a few tools....its such an easy process to test.......

I'm a bit recalcitrant to just say....do this,bend that,hook up here.Because it dosen't give the whole story.A person needs to have that curiosity gene sometimes.Which just can't be satisfied with the typical tutorial,as has been documented over the years on the net.IOWs somethings are STILL better figured out for oneself.BW


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