# Changing a Table Saw Blade



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

A friend called to ask for help changing a table saw blade. (He was using a Crescent wrench on the nut and vice grips on the blade.)

His saw was a borrowed right tilt and he was unaware of physics and left hand threads. So I thought that I would write the procedure down because it is so easy but not very obvious. 

Left or right tilting, the procedure is the same. (BTW - A right tilting uses a left hand thread on the arbor.)

First unplug the saw and raise the blade to the full height.

Remove the throat plate or insert.

Use a piece of scrap or your push stick and wedge it into the teeth of the blade. Lay the push stick flat on the table and just slide it into the teeth of the blade. Put your arbor nut wrench onto the nut and pull TOWARD the operator while holding the blade with the scrap or push stick.

The nut should be loose and can be removed by hand. Remember that the TOP of the nut should be turned toward the operator. Also remove the blade washer.

Remove the blade and install the new blade flush against the arbor flange. Re-install the blade washer and arbor nut. The top of the arbor nut should be turned AWAY from the operator to tighten. Make the nut finger tight.

Put your wrench on the arbor nut with the opposite end resting against the throat opening closest to the operator. Grasp the blade between thumbs and index fingers and pull the blade toward the operator. Pull on the blade until it is a bit more than snug. 

Re-install the saw safety components. (ZC throat plate, splitter, blade guard, etc.) Plug the saw back in and go.

The physics of the saw will completely tighten the arbor nut just by starting the saw. 

The key point of these instructions is that to loosen the arbor nut is ALWAYS to pull the wrench toward the operator. Right or left tilt does not make any difference.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A maintenance tip before installing the blade. While the blade is off the arbor, it's a good time to clean the arbor flange, arbor threads, blade (especially around the arbor hole), washer for the blade and the arbor nut (including the threads). 

While the blade is off, it may also be a good time to clean out all the saw mechanisms. Dirt, sawdust, and dust gets built up and can interfere with raise/tilt movements. When installing a used blade it's wise to clean the blade of tar, pitch, muck, grime, and any hotdog residue.












 







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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

It may only partially apply to OP.....well sort of......

I'm not the least bit bashful when it comes to labeling operating or maintenance dictum on a pce of equip.In big bold majic marker.....LEFT HAND THREADS.Or GAURD MUST BE IN PLACE.

You can wipe the marker off with acetone if you're worried about defacing your prized whammerjammer machine.BW


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Excellent tip.....I suspect that a lot of folks over tighten their blades and actually distort the body of the blade. (why doesn't my $100 blade cut better than my $15 blade? :huh

It's also an excellent idea to keep your blades clean....a clean blade cuts like new for a long time. A dirty blade cuts like a dull blade, and actually dulls carbide prematurely.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I stopped using a block of wood to jam the blade, when I noticed the blade deflect to one side when doing it. I just use a 7/8 box wrench, and a 7/8 open wrench, which I ground down to fit the flats on the arbor.

I mounted a 4 outlet box on the back rail of the saw, so I can unplug the saw, easily, and grab the wrenches, hanging on a bolt, next to the box. The saw plug also has a short tether on it, to keep it from droping to the floor. Fast, easy, safe, and no chance of bending a blade.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Pirate said:


> I stopped using a block of wood to jam the blade, when I noticed the blade deflect to one side when doing it.


If you use the scrap or push stick as though you were feeding it into a cut, there should be no blade deflection. (Or at least no more deflection than making a cut.) The intent is to have a tooth come forward as if making a cut and dig into the scrap.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I don't like the block of wood method either. I use the arbor wrench that came with the saw. I also like to remove the throat plate before I raise the blade, that way there is no risk of damaging the teeth of the blade should the throat plate slip. Just my 2 cents.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've always used the wood block method without any problems. If the block is straight there should be no deflection. I use a piece of 3/4", and that height puts the pressure close to the table (on the down side of the blade edge). Removing the throat plate first is what the OP suggested.












 







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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

rrich said:


> If you use the scrap or push stick as though you were feeding it into a cut, there should be no blade deflection. (Or at least no more deflection than making a cut.) The intent is to have a tooth come forward as if making a cut and dig into the scrap.



Oh.... you mean, your not supposed to ram the wood into the side of the blade! lol


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

pirate said:


> oh.... You mean, your not supposed to ram the wood into the side of the blade! Lol


+ lol!


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

rrich said:


> If you use the scrap or push stick as though you were feeding it into a cut, there should be no blade deflection. (Or at least no more deflection than making a cut.) The intent is to have a tooth come forward as if making a cut and dig into the scrap.


Rich, I find it oxymoronic (if thats a word) that your post about using a scrap of wood to hold the blade, is followed by "use the right tool for the job" lol


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Pirate said:


> Rich, I find it oxymoronic (if thats a word) that your post about using a scrap of wood to hold the blade, is followed by "use the right tool for the job" lol


Funny!

At school they have push sticks CNC'd out of 3/4" Baltic Birch. They have us use the push stick to block the blade during changes. That was where I learned the technique.

Also, I never had the luxury of flat spots for a wrench on any of the table saws that I owned. My UniSaw only came with one wrench and I never looked for the flat spots on the arbor.


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