# I think I've got an OMG going on here!



## M1911Bldr (Aug 24, 2009)

I haven't been deeply involved in woodworking for very long but I'm a relatively "well informed" practicioner. In my endeavors to build and sell high-end inlaid butcher block cutting boards, I've been on a vertical learning curve since March. I've gleaned many many tips, tricks and ideas from all here and I'm obliged to pass on something I've discovered about rust/tarnish/drag control on all those cast iron table tops out there. I've spent a lot of time and money trying to come up with a viable, reliable cleaner and preservative. I think I've found the ultimate combination. I stumbled on a product called Corrosion X that's mil-spec accepted for aviation corrosion control. It works wonders for cleaning and preserving the table tops but it's not very slick so I tried putting paste wax down on top of it. OMG! Now I have to be careful about leaving wood pieces on the table tops 'cause they'll slide off if they're bumped or pushed! The Corrosion X saves my tables from rust (I sweat at the drop of a hat and drip on the tables sometimes), lasts a L-O-N-G time between applications, and is perfectly compatible with the paste wax. And it's half the price of Top Saver, T-9 and BoeShield!


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## b00kemdano (Feb 10, 2009)

I need this! My most recent project has been a bunch of plywood cutouts for a friend's horse farm. I used a sheet of the treated plywood as a large table top by laying it over my table saw. The cast iron did NOT like that wet treated ply.  I'll have to find your Corrosion X stuff to fix it. Thanks for the tip!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Treated and wet wood*



b00kemdano said:


> I need this! My most recent project has been a bunch of plywood cutouts for a friend's horse farm. I used a sheet of the treated plywood as a large table top by laying it over my table saw. The cast iron did NOT like that wet treated ply.  I'll have to find your Corrosion X stuff to fix it. Thanks for the tip!


We all learn by experience and that's the way I learned about treated wood. Came back the next day to find a rectangle of rust underneath the scrap I had left on the TS. Gibbs is another great rust preventer that I use. www.gibbsbrand.com Not available in stores. I also have Corroision X I got from somewhere, I don't recall. http://corrosionxproducts.com/corrosionxpage.htm
:thumbsup: bill


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## Dejure (Sep 2, 2009)

*Me too, me too*

I bought a bottle of Corrosion X (don't get the heavy duty stuff, it's sticky) and applied it to my band saw table top.

After I applied the Corrosion X, I left some damp apple wood on the top overnight, to see what would happen. I the past, I would have had to remove the rust and apply a new coat of wax and such. This time - nothing. It works well and I give it a big thumbs up.

I polish my table tops with my granite polishing equipment (the worn out 3000 grit diamond pads work good with oil) and they end up near mirror quality. That actually seems to slow rust, but when rust does hit, it really gets annoying. Corrosion X takes away the fun of a super shiny finish, but maintains it against rust.

Another plus with Corrosion X is, I don't have to shoot as many of my friends [for leaving their Coke cans and coffee cups on my machined surfaces. Friends are hard to come by and I really hate choosing between them and my woodworking tools.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

Excluding leaving PT or fresh cut lumber on a table, running a dehumidifier in my shop has pretty much eliminated rust damage


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## xeddog (Dec 14, 2009)

A friend would only have to be told once not to do that, so you must have a LOT of friends. 

Wayne


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## mikro4127 (Jul 22, 2010)

which corrosionx product exactly did you use? theres a lot on there web site. You mentioned the aviation, but they have a home /shop section too. I need some for my table saw.


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## Dejure (Sep 2, 2009)

*Choices of Corrosion X*

They've changed their site and product offering since I've been there. It looks like you want the "General - Marine" version. I'd like to know more about the aviation version.

My records show this is the one I got:

91002-s - CorrosionX 16 oz Trigger Spray

You can call a supplier (I talked with one out of Spokane, Washington, who warned me about the sticker industrial version), or the company and pick their brains.


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## woodjoiner (Aug 20, 2010)

Not trying to step on anyone's toes, I would just like to put my two cents in, personally for the rust problems I would use some simple steel wool to get off the rust. The next key thing to do and always do is to keep the top waxed, if you keep the top waxed it will protect the top therefore no rust not to mention things will just slide across the top with ease. So as basic maintenance goes to quote a line (wax on wax off) on a daily July weekly ritual. I hope this little tip helps and keeps things moving smoothly and rust free. I'm just the woodworker on a budget and I know everyone must have wax laying around the house are shop and if you use any type of finishing all your projects other than oil then you should have some steel wool to rub out blemishes in the finish between coats. Comments on my posts are always welcome, good or bad.

Best regards
woodjoiner


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I was watching tv the other day and a CLR commercial came on and got me to wondering how it would work on cast iron. It is the stuff used to dissolve calcium lime and rust stains in tubs and such. That stuff is available at many grocery and hardware stores and isn't expensive....


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## 9michael9 (Aug 10, 2010)

:thumbdown:A slick table saw is a very dangerous tool indeed. I waxed mine so it would be slick, and a cutoff was sucked into the spinning blade and became an arrow that stuck in my garage wall 12 feet away. In went in about 3 inches. Please take the wax off and leave the table top dull.:yes:

~~Mike Griffin


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## qgranfor (Jul 2, 2010)

Julian the woodnut said:


> I was watching tv the other day and a CLR commercial came on and got me to wondering how it would work on cast iron. It is the stuff used to dissolve calcium lime and rust stains in tubs and such. That stuff is available at many grocery and hardware stores and isn't expensive....


I used CLR to clean up the surface rust on the used cast iron tablesaw I bought that saw too much rain during the auction. It cleaned it up quite nicely imho.

In fact, I plan on using it to clean up the rusty planer I just picked up. We'll see how it works......as this particular rust has been there awhile and might not want to move out.  Hopefully I get around to doing that this weekend and can try to remember to post my results.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

believe it or not penetrol works freat as a rust inhibator, mostly use for oil conditioning.
i did a job in oakland they wanted all the steel to be natural. the commercial co. i worked for at the time used the penetrol, rolled and brushed 3 coats 15 yrs ago, and still looks loke the day we did it. it dries hard and not sticky at all.i use it on all my metal,including table saw keeps the rust off my shuvels and actually helps gliding through the dirt


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## woodmeistro (Jul 9, 2010)

I have been using a product called Top coat that I get from Highland Hardware, (check them out on line) for years, and it works great, occasionally I get careless and set a cold beverage on a machine top but now worries it won't rust. This stuff leaves no residue on your wood so it will not effect your finish and it acts as a lubricant, I treat my tops about every 6 months or so.


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## MSST8DOG (Mar 6, 2021)

M1911Bldr said:


> I haven't been deeply involved in woodworking for very long but I'm a relatively "well informed" practicioner. In my endeavors to build and sell high-end inlaid butcher block cutting boards, I've been on a vertical learning curve since March. I've gleaned many many tips, tricks and ideas from all here and I'm obliged to pass on something I've discovered about rust/tarnish/drag control on all those cast iron table tops out there. I've spent a lot of time and money trying to come up with a viable, reliable cleaner and preservative. I think I've found the ultimate combination. I stumbled on a product called Corrosion X that's mil-spec accepted for aviation corrosion control. It works wonders for cleaning and preserving the table tops but it's not very slick so I tried putting paste wax down on top of it. OMG! Now I have to be careful about leaving wood pieces on the table tops 'cause they'll slide off if they're bumped or pushed! The Corrosion X saves my tables from rust (I sweat at the drop of a hat and drip on the tables sometimes), lasts a L-O-N-G time between applications, and is perfectly compatible with the paste wax. And it's half the price of Top Saver, T-9 and BoeShield!


I use Corrosion - X all the time. I fish salt water and it works great to prevent you tackle form disappearing in the box.


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## MSST8DOG (Mar 6, 2021)

MSST8DOG said:


> I use Corrosion - X all the time. I fish salt water and it works great to prevent you tackle form disappearing in the box.


I also use white vinegar to remove rust (light, not flaky, pitting rust) from tools all the time.


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## Kenh3497 (Jun 5, 2021)

Another product is ACF-50. This is an aircraft specific (more or less) product. Similar to Corrosion-X. It is avaliable all over the inter web.

Ken


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