# Where is a sawyer for small projects in Ohio?



## David K (Oct 9, 2007)

I plan to take down three large red oak trees that are too close to my house. The contractor will cut them into 8' lengths, and set on pressure-treated 4x4s until I can get them sawn. I have a large basement where I can stack the lumber while it dries (for as long as it takes).

I'd like to find someone who can bring a portable re-sawing unit, because I have no way to move the logs. Does anyone know how to find such a service? I live in northeastern Ohio.

Also, I really like the look of quarter-sawn white oak. Why don't I ever see quarter-sawn red oak? Is it worth the loss in wood to ask the sawyer to quarter-saw my trees?


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Here are a couple places to start looking.
http://yellowpages.aol.com/sawmills/oh/
Your Dept. Of Natural Resources, Forestry may have a list of sawyers, (Illinois does) you could call them.http://www.dnr.state.oh.us/forestry/Home/forests/map/tabid/5158/Default.aspx
Wood-Mizer (a name brand of sawmill) also keeps a list, they can usually direct you to a guy http://www.woodmizer.com/us/index.aspx

1/4 sawn red oak is cool too. I have some in the shed, I could post a picture. The loss being worth it is up to you. If you have some big trees, 1/4 sawn would be the way to go IMO, but the loss maybe 30%+ (?) for true 1/4 sawing. Have some of each flat and 1/4 is what I would do.


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## hcbph (Oct 3, 2007)

*Sawing logs*

When you get your trees cut down, seal the ends to reduce checking and cracking. When you put it inside, put sticklers between them evenly down the length and weight the stack down, obviously keep it off the floor. Expect a fair amount of water over time, so either have a mop handy or hear a drain.

Good luck

Paul


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Daren said:


> I have some in the shed, I could post a picture.


Planed not sanded.


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## David K (Oct 9, 2007)

Thanks, very helpful! I found a couple numbers from the Ohio Extension service. I can't find a list of mill operators on the WoodMizer site, but it's so full of stuff, that I might be overlooking it.

I'm surprised to read that there might be enough water to actually drip. I figured I'd make a 'tent' with plastic, and include a couple de-humidifiers in it. I air-dried walnut several years ago, by just letting it sit in the basement for 2 years. I might want to use this sooner, so I'll look at moisture meters. Any thoughts on brand?


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

David K said:


> I can't find a list of mill operators on the WoodMizer site, but it's so full of stuff, that I might be overlooking it.
> 
> I air-dried walnut several years ago, by just letting it sit in the basement for 2 years. I might want to use this sooner,


I think you just call the 800 number on the top of the first page ? (I don't know, I have never called needing a sawyer :laughing

This thread on drying lumber may interest you? http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/showthread.php?t=3103


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## hcbph (Oct 3, 2007)

*Sawing*



David K said:


> Thanks, very helpful! I found a couple numbers from the Ohio Extension service. I can't find a list of mill operators on the WoodMizer site, but it's so full of stuff, that I might be overlooking it.
> 
> I'm surprised to read that there might be enough water to actually drip. I figured I'd make a 'tent' with plastic, and include a couple de-humidifiers in it. I air-dried walnut several years ago, by just letting it sit in the basement for 2 years. I might want to use this sooner, so I'll look at moisture meters. Any thoughts on brand?


I've heard about the water from others on a couple of forums, I have not had any timber cut. It was one of the things that was mentioned.
Good luck.

Paul


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## arkyrick (Feb 13, 2008)

When I lived in Ohio a guy down the street from me filled his basement with cut firewood to furnish his wood burner with nearby fuel, now this fire wood was mostly green he figured it would dry out while in the house,he had seceral cords stacked through out his basement. The moisture got so bad that his roof began to warp and the walls would sweat making stains on them, the insulation in his attic was soaked, so that will give you an idea how much water can be in green lumber.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

You might want to place the green lumber outside, under a tarp for the first six months to get rid of some of the moisture before moving it inside. After you move it in the dehumidifier would be good, or just place a box fan blowing at the pile for several months. I am finding that fresh cut cedar and hemlock will drop from 22 to 24% down to about 11 to 12% over a period of several months if the lumber is stickered in my shop and air is circulated around the stack. After that I move it into the house, where it will reduce down to 6 to 8% after a few more months. I do not know how bad oak is for producing moisture.

Gerry


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## lucas.j.dunton (Feb 27, 2008)

That firewood story sound kinda weird to me, for the first 20 years of my life we cut, split and stacked 15-18 cord of wood every fall for the winter in our basement, always fresh cut and green as hell when we put it in and never had any puddles or moisture of any kind in my basement


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## woodworks (Feb 12, 2008)

David K:
Where are you in Ohio? I am down on the border next to WWVa. Just south a few miles of St. Clairsville.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Some woods must retain a lot more moisture than others. Daren will probably weigh in with an answer to that one. I have never had green wood leave drips, but if laid on the concrete floor you can definitely see the moisture imprint when you move it.

Gerry


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## David K (Oct 9, 2007)

I'm in a suburb of Cleveland.

The first tree (of three) is down. It looked healthy, though it leaned over the house. The center at the base has white insects (grubs?) about 3/4" x 1/8" with obvious damage. I don't know how high up the center they go, but the contractor cut four 8' sections that are wide enough to cut for lumber (24" diam widest). I imagine in a few years it might have become weak enough to fall in bad weather. (Thinking that made my wife stop crying).

I found a sawyer who will take a look this week. There are cinderblocks ready in the basement, to keep it above the floor. I need to cut stickers. I really can't imagine humidity damage from the wood, now that I've gotten through two episodes of basement flooding. Three dehumidifiers and two fans brought that under control, so as long as the wood doesn't get mold....


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## woodworks (Feb 12, 2008)

Well you too far from me to do you any good. I usually deal with a guy in WWVa. I had him cut up some walnut that I got for $10 bucks a tree. I had him cut and dry. But it would be too far for you.


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## CaptZZ (Feb 26, 2008)

*Water moisture*

A tree can be comprised of up to 50% water, I saw a pretty cool graphic about how much water a mature oak can move in a day; supposed to be one natures most efficient water pumps...all without moving parts! Couldn't find the graphic but here's a neat link http://www.trees-and-landscaping.com/aloft.html


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## ecologito (Jan 27, 2008)

Interesting topic about drying wood. 

I've been tapping a maple tree to make my own syrup. In 2 weeks I got about 9 gallons of sap and the tree is not any bigger than 14 inches diameter.
I also live outside Cleveland. Good luck with your lumber


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## aclose (Nov 11, 2007)

oooh, tell us how your syrup turns out. have you made it before? is the maple a sugar maple? or some other maple species?
i love maple syrup


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