# Before I hava a nervous breakdown I need help with molding



## Novicesaw (May 8, 2011)

Hello

I am putting 3/4 inch cove molding at the ceiling g wall junction. I have a miter saw that bevels one way. Please please tell me how I am to cut an inside corner. If I ruin anymore molding I will never hear the end of it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Novicesaw said:


> Hello
> 
> I am putting 3/4 inch cove molding at the ceiling g wall junction. I have a miter saw that bevels one way. Please please tell me how I am to cut an inside corner. If I ruin anymore molding I will never hear the end of it.


Inside corners can be coped, using a coping saw (by hand). Here's how. 

If you are using a CMS (compound miter saw), you won't be cutting bevels. You will cut miters. The table on the saw swivels to the left and right to 45 degrees.












 







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## Novicesaw (May 8, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Inside corners can be coped, using a coping saw (by hand). Here's how.
> 
> If you are using a CMS (compound miter saw), you won't be cutting bevels. You will cut miters. The table on the saw swivels to the left and right to 45 degrees.
> 
> ...


How does the molding lay the compound miter saw. And does a saw like mine that has 45 degrees to the right and 45 degrees to the left and the 45 degree bevel constitute a compound miter saw or does it need to bevel both directions?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Novicesaw said:


> How does the molding lay the compound miter saw. And does a saw like mine that has 45 degrees to the right and 45 degrees to the left and the 45 degree bevel constitute a compound miter saw or does it need to bevel both directions?


Compound miter saw means the saw motor can be tilted on a bevel, and the table can be set at a miter setting, and one cut does both at the same time. Some miter saws don't do the bevel. Some only bevel in one direction. Some (dual bevel) will tilt either left or right for bevel. But most CMS's and MS's will do a left and right miter by turning the saw motor.












 







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## Novicesaw (May 8, 2011)

So cabinetman I guess I still do not understand. How is the molding supposed to be placed in the miter saw? I have tried what I think is every possible way to put the molding in and I still can not make an inside corner.Do I only use a miter cut with my saw?


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

Hi,
If it is just cove molding place it in the saw as it would be on the wall/ceiling. Wall side should be against the fence & the ceiling would be on top pointing out towards you. You would be looking down at the ceiling side as you make your cut. Set the saw miter to the right 45º or to the left 45º. Blade should be straight up & down & not at a bevel. For a left side miter swing the saw 45º to the right & the opposite for the right inside miter. This is for cove that has two flat surfaces on the back side. 

If it is cut for crown (machined with a 38º/52º bevel on top & bottom of molding) then being only 3/4" I would place it in the saw upside down at the angle it sits in place. This is known as upside down & backwards. When you cut the 45º on the left side of your piece it will actually be the right hand cut as it sits on the wall. You might find videos on YouTube. Placing the piece at the spring angle it sits on the wall will give you a compound cut so you only have to cut the miter & not have to lay the saw blade over for a bevel.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jlord said:


> Hi,
> If it is just cove molding place it in the saw as it would be on the wall/ceiling. Wall side should be against the fence & the ceiling would be on top pointing out towards you. You would be looking down at the ceiling side as you make your cut. Set the saw miter to the right 45º or to the left 45º. Blade should be straight up & down & not at a bevel. *For a left side miter swing the saw 45º to the right & the opposite for the right inside miter. This is for cove that has two flat surfaces on the back side.*


I think you have this backward, but I could be wrong. The left piece needs a miter cut with the saw swung to the left. That cut when made produces the left side member. The point that goes into the corner will be to the right, and angled to the left. The opposite would be for the right side member. Visualize the look of the angles for the pieces for a picture frame type corner. This would be for an inside miter cut.












 







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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> I think you have this backward, but I could be wrong. The left piece needs a miter cut with the saw swung to the left. That cut when made produces the left side member. The point that goes into the corner will be to the right, and angled to the left. The opposite would be for the right side member. Visualize the look of the angles for the pieces for a picture frame type corner. This would be for an inside miter cut.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
You are correct.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

NoviceSaw. By now you will have a number of scraps. Take some of these and practise what you want to. I have the same setup saw that you have.

As cabinetman describes the cut you want to do is simple.

Cutting larger crown is more complicated. However, it still can easily be done with your saw. Since your saw only has the "bevel" one way you have to turn your work upside down to accomplish the cut for both sides of the corner.

I keep "patterns" of the cut for each type of molding that I have cut. I can always go back to these in the future and duplicate my work.
This saves having to learn all over again.

George


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> I think you have this backward, but I could be wrong. The left piece needs a miter cut with the saw swung to the left. That cut when made produces the left side member. The point that goes into the corner will be to the right, and angled to the left. The opposite would be for the right side member. Visualize the look of the angles for the pieces for a picture frame type corner. This would be for an inside miter cut.
> 
> If he is using cove molding machined for crown then the I would cut this upside down & backwards where the cuts would be the opposite of the other style as the piece is upside down.
> 
> ...


Hi Cabinetman,
I don't think this is wrong for this type of molding. The direction you described would be for crown cut upside down & backwards. without knowing which type of cove he has for sure I kind of gave instructions for both. If he has a cove molding with a 90º backside he would hold the piece against the fence as it would be sitting in position with the wall side against the fence & the ceiling facing up & cove facing towards you.

For a left inside miter you would swing the saw to the right. Cut on the left end of the molding. This would put the backside of the saw blade at long point to the left (standard miter cut). Swinging the saw left & cutting on the left side of the molding with the fence side being short point would be an outside miter. 

I would not prefer this type of molding with the 90º backside for wall/ceiling as it might leave gaps where the joint is unsquare. I hope I explained myself a little better. Without seeing the actual molding he is talking about it hard to help with instructions. One never knows what someone uses to trim out an area.

Cove with 90º backside:
http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/sto...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Cove machined for crown (I would cut this upside down & backwards):
http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/sto...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

If using this trim you will have two ways to cut this trim #1 is to cut on the flat with a compound cut (bevel & miter). But being so small I would cut it #2 method of upside down in position (the spring angle) & cut the miter. #2 is cutting just a miter with the material upside down on the saw will give you a compound cut so your corners meet when flipped right side up & installed on the wall.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

The how-to by DeWalt

http://www.dewalt.com/featured-articles/cutting-crown-molding-with-dewalt-miter-saws.aspx

~tom


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## Novicesaw (May 8, 2011)

I want to thank you all for all your input. I finished the bathroom molding


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## ctwiggs1 (Mar 30, 2011)

well lets see it!


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## Novicesaw (May 8, 2011)

ctwiggs1 said:


> well lets see it!


here it is sorry for the poor lighting

http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s150/morganmanic/?action=view&current=P6090139.mp4


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## JimRich (Jun 10, 2011)

I use this jig. Perfect corners every time. Comes with a gauge to measure the angle and spring angle of the corner. Set it and cut. Very easy.

Amazon.com: Kreg Crown Pro: Home Improvement

EDIT: crap... should have read the whole post before responding! It turned out awesome! WOW!


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

Nice job!!:thumbsup:


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## PurpleHeartJarHead (Jul 17, 2011)

firemedic said:


> The how-to by DeWalt
> 
> http://www.dewalt.com/featured-articles/cutting-crown-molding-with-dewalt-miter-saws.aspx
> 
> ~tom


I know I am off topic here a little, but...

...what kind of saw does a guy have to have that gives bevel and mitre angle readings in hundredths of degrees with the accuracy of the cutting table DeWalt has listed on this webpage? My own DeWalt is not _*that *_accurate. :thumbdown:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

PurpleHeartJarHead said:


> I know I am off topic here a little, but...
> 
> ...what kind of saw does a guy have to have that gives bevel and mitre angle readings in hundredths of degrees with the accuracy of the cutting table DeWalt has listed on this webpage? My own DeWalt is not that accurate. :thumbdown:


It's an approximation... You can at least get a half degree...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## PurpleHeartJarHead (Jul 17, 2011)

firemedic said:


> It's an approximation... You can at least get a half degree...
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


For sure Tom, that's just my sense of sarcasm coming out. I am a bit of jester at times.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

PurpleHeartJarHead said:


> For sure Tom, that's just my sense of sarcasm coming out. I am a bit of jester at times.


Where'd ya get tagged, jar?

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## PurpleHeartJarHead (Jul 17, 2011)

firemedic said:


> Where'd ya get tagged, jar?
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


As Saqliwiyah, Anbar Province, Iraq. 17 Sept 2005.  Three weeks before coming home. 103mm mortar. Lots of holes.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

PurpleHeartJarHead said:


> As Saqliwiyah, Anbar Province, Iraq. 17 Sept 2005.  Three weeks before coming home. 103mm mortar. Lots of holes.


Sucks, important thing is ya still made it home... Even if it was sooner than ya planned, lol

Thanks for your service

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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