# Need advice on where plinth block meets base shoe



## Smiledoc (Dec 27, 2011)

Hello fellow woodworkers! 

I would appreciate input on the best look to finish off my living room for base. We currently have 5/4 plinth blocks in the door ways and are installing new base. The room will require shoe moulding as it is a floating floor with many dips. Baseboard will be a three piece design with middle piece flat stock so I have control over width.

Question: What have you found to be the best solution at the shoe moulding/ plinth junction. Seems I either have to cut the moulding back or build up the plinth block. Any advice or photos greatly appreciated! Great group!


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Smiledoc said:


> Hello fellow woodworkers!
> 
> I would appreciate input on the best look to finish off my living room for base. We currently have 5/4 plinth blocks in the door ways and are installing new base. The room will require shoe moulding as it is a floating floor with many dips. Baseboard will be a three piece design with middle piece flat stock so I have control over width.
> 
> Question: What have you found to be the best solution at the shoe moulding/ plinth junction. Seems I either have to cut the moulding back or build up the plinth block. Any advice or photos greatly appreciated! Great group!


I had roughly the same issue a while back.

I beveled the shoe where it meets the plinth and didn't like they way it looked. So I rounded off the bevel with some sanding to see if it would look any better rounded and curved. Looked better but not great. So I just went and got some 4/4 lumber and milled my own baseboard to the exact thickness I needed. Then I ran the shoe in front of both the baseboard and the plinth and did a simple miter at the outside corner. It looks okay I guess.


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

Plinth needs to be thick enough to accomindate both base and shoe.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

You can dress the end of the shoe back on a 22 1/2° with the end cut square, or you can return the shoe into the base at the plinth or you can add a 1/2 inch thickness onto the front of the plinth and butt the shoe. 
If I were to add onto the plinth I would make it the same width as the existing plinth, drop it down 1/4 -3/8 inch from the top of the existing plinth and camphor the top edge about 1/4 inch so the added piece wouldn't look so thick or added.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*check your other identical post*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/advice-finishing-where-plinth-block-meets-base-shoe-33354/

Why did you post the same identical question in 2 places...you expected better answers in one over the other.....:blink:

This mucks up the forum as more posts get added...
One thread per subject is all that's needed. :yes: bill


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

Plane the base down to 1/2" or slightly less, or use mdf. 

Run the base cap through a table saw with the detail facing the saw blade to make the bottom groove deeper (closer to the back of the molding) so it won't project beyond the top edge of the base (or be too close and look like ****).


Use a thin shoe mold. Then just butt to the plinth 


> Why did you post the same identical question in 2 places...you expected better answers in one over the other.....:blink:
> 
> This mucks up the forum as more posts get added...
> One thread per subject is all that's needed. :yes: bill


 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Big Stud (Dec 2, 2011)

You COULD scribe the base to the floor and forget about shoe altogether. I have done this in the past with great results. It does take some extra time to do, but is workable,


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

It looks great as is...no shoe. :yes: bill


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