# What size Table Saw should I get?



## borisw37 (Jul 28, 2010)

I'm in the process of setting up a garage workshop. Have a few projects in mind. Hopefully be able to build kitchen cabinets at some point.
So the question is, what size table saw should I get that will be sufficient for cabinet making?
Amount of floor space and cost are obviously a concern.

Thank you,

Boris.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

borisw37 said:


> I'm in the process of setting up a garage workshop. Have a few projects in mind. Hopefully be able to build kitchen cabinets at some point.
> So the question is, what size table saw should I get that will be sufficient for cabinet making?
> Amount of floor space and cost are obviously a concern.
> 
> ...



Without reference to the type of table saw, I recommend a 10" for size. Bench top type saws are small and portable, but you may want something larger. A portable jobsite saw that can be moved more easily might be a convenience. 

As for footprint, a cabinet saw may be to your liking, and a mobile base could be added.












 





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## borisw37 (Jul 28, 2010)

I was curious more about the size of the table L x W rather than the diameter of the blade. I'm guessing a smaller portable saw will make handling and supporting larger pieces much more difficult.


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

I'm having this same issue. The problem for me is I have to keep everything in the garage and park both cars in there... and keep it clean/organized. 

The smaller saws alone make big cutting jobs more difficult, however I think a lot of people like us make bigger cuts using a circular saw and then use the TS for the smaller cuts. I've found myself using the CS a lot more lately anyhow since it's easier to drag out. Just put a decent blade on it and get/make yourself a cutting guide and it's not so bad. Using a foam backer board and making a scoring pass also seems to help. 

If you need to use the TS for larger cuts (and really the smaller TS can barely handle medium cuts on their own), just plan to use outfeed tables/rollers and extensions unless you have the room for larger setups.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*What's your buget?*

I recommend this one as the lower end $450.00 from Sears:

ON SALE save $100.00, ends 9/7/10
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921833000P?vName=Tools&cName=Bench&StationaryPowerTools&sName=Table%20Saws&sid=IDx20070921x00003j&srccode=cii_9324560&cpncode=22-78456209-2

Or this one: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...03j&srccode=cii_9324560&cpncode=21-74239588-2

It's difficult/impossible to add rip capacity to the right side of the blade afterward, so make certain you get enough 24" minimum or 30" desirable for cabinet making and ripping plywood. You can always add infeed and outfeed supports easily as separate tables or stands for longer work.  bill


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Bigger is better up to a point, but obviously budget and space constraints come into play. There are plenty of advantages going with a full size stationary saw...whether a cast iron contractor saw, hybrid saw, or cabinet saw, and there are decent choices starting in the $450 range. Once you get into a "true" 3hp+ motor, you'll need 220v to operate it.


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## rfcomm2k (Sep 3, 2010)

In my opinion, horsepower is much more important than the size of the table. You can easily add extensions if needed, or even build a permanent "table" around your saw, to make it easier to handle large pieces. But if you scrimp on the motor you will regret it much sooner than you think.


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## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

IMO a cabinet saw should be the goal. Preferably one with a 52" fence and a nice size outfeed table. Doing cabinets usually means cutting up larger sheets and with a degree of accuracy. Can you obtain that with a smaller or less beefy saw, absolutely, the large table though and weight of the saw make things a lot easier. Just my two cents and I do realize that not everyone has the space for the setup. 

I like many have wrestled a sheet of plywood over a contractor saw and then over a cabinet saw, life just seams easier with the later.


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## The Engineer (Mar 16, 2010)

I just bought the Craftsman 21833, the $449 one in Bill's suggestion, about 4 or 5 months ago. I'm loving it so far. My first couple of projects have been from plywood and the main thing I had in mind when I bought it was to eventually build cabinets and a dining room table for a remodel project. I think it does just what I expected, and the built in casters make moving it around the basement much easier than I expected. It's not real easy to set up the first time. Took me about 5 to 6 hours, and this ain't my first rodeo. 

One of the portable jobsite type saws, Like the Ridgid TS3400 or the Bosch 4100 might be a lot faster to set up and would be more portable, but they cost the same money and are more limited.They also can't use acessories that are magnetic because the tables are not iron. It's hard enough to fight with and lift a sheet of 3/4" plywood up to a table saw that is heavy enough to stay put, but it gets to be even more difficult (and dangerous) when the sheet weighs more than the saw. If you go portable with the saw, let your first project be a big base cabinet to mount it into. Of course, then you will have spent enough to buy the bigger saw in the first place and you just lost the portability feature.

One of my main requirements was to have standard miter slots. When you get get into the under $300 saws, almost all of them have non-standard miter slots. The woodworking magazines and books all have neat jigs and fixtures you can build to increase the functionality of your table saw; things like miter sleds, tennoning jigs, box joint guides, etc. You can't do any of these with non-standard miter slots. It's not that the slots are too small, it's the fact they have little tabs sticking out to hold the wimpy non-standard miter bars in place. So, I don't regret for one minute that I stayed away from these saws.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Extension table for limited space*

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodvision/?playlistId=158528

Table saw Tips and Techniques: scroll right arrow until you find *table saw out feed table/bench*  bill


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

You can make due with a contractor style saw & a 30" fence, but for cabinets I would shoot for the 3hp cabinet saw w/52" fence. It's good to have the power for the sheets of ply you will be cutting up & the flexibility of the 52" fence. You can make it mobile so you can tuck it away when not in use. Buy a good used one if necessary. If cabinet making is what you are after I think you will be glad you did.


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## against_the_grain (Aug 15, 2010)

Since you did not mention a dollar figure in your post I would suggest that you make a couple of compromises. Take some of the suggestions above regarding saw types and then do a search on craigslist in your area. Often great deals can be found there.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

You can do a lot with a small inexpensive saw. I had a friend in Indiana that had an old Craftsman 10" with worn out bearings and could do amazing work. However, a good cabinetmakers saw is hard to beat in the pleasure it gives. I started with a shopsmith and moved through several to the Delta Unisawthat I have now. Given a choice, give me the big saw every time.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Building cabinets will require cutting sheet goods. Generally speaking you'll be ripping sheet goods to about 23-3/4" wide for cabinets. 

As for the size of the saw... I think Mike suggested a ten inch blade. That is probably the best choice.

After the blade size, almost any table saw can be used depending upon operator skill, patience and the supporting tables around the saw.

I would avoid a job site or bench top saw. I have used a contractor style saw (Motor hangs out the back and gravity is the belt tensioning mechanism.) to build cabinets. A 30" (minimum) fence system is a must. 

For safety you'll need a 48" out feed table. (This should be your first project.) That out feed table will support half of the sheet that you will be ripping. The out feed table is a very important safety device.

Your second project should be some sort of a left side table. This can be your work bench that will also help you in cutting those large sheet goods.

As for the brand of saw... I have owned both a Jet contractor and Delta cabinet table saws. I have also used General and Powermatic cabinet saws. While I can see differences between cabinet saws and contractor saws, I see little difference between the brands of cabinet saws. I like my Delta Unisaw but it's the only one that I currently own.

My preference is for a "T" square style of fence system. (Biesemeyer) I have used an Incra fence system and it is very repeatable and accurate. The Incra is limited to about 30 inches, although it can be kluged to open up to 41 or 42 inches. The Incra is great for small pieces but lacking when making wider cuts. The Incra is capable or repeatability to within a few thousands of an inch BUT THIS IS WOODWORKING. 

I would avoid any mobility platform for a table saw because of the safety aspect of the out feed table. As a safety device the out feed table is as important as proper alignment of the saw itself.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

I'd buy an old Craftsman 8",from the 1950's.They can be had for 100$Then use it and see how the whole garage shop evolves.After a cp nice projects with C'man you "should" be in a better position to make a choice.But would still keep the C'man 8" and install Dado head on it.It can be easily fitted into outfeed table.BW

Cutting sheetgoods on a TS is about the dumbest thing you can do........IN A SMALL SHOP.You'd be much better served with an X-Y vertical panel cutter.You can fab one up in an afternoon.It's mounted on wall and utilizes circular saw for cutting action.Thats the first project you make with above,baby C-man ".BW


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

This is the advice I wish someone had given me when I started 2 years ago:



BWSmith said:


> I'd buy an old Craftsman 8".... see how shop evolves.... still keep the C'man 8" and install Dado head on it.....It can be easily fitted into outfeed table.... vertical panel, the first project you make with above,baby C-man ".BW


With a couple years of tinkering, the two biggest things I cry over are the crappy fence and the direct-drive low HP motor of the benchtop type. I am really feeling the pain of this comment these days:



rfcomm2k said:


> In my opinion, horsepower is much more important than the size of the table. You can easily add extensions if needed, or even build a permanent "table" around your saw, to make it easier to handle large pieces. But if you scrimp on the motor you will regret it much sooner than you think.


Unsolicited advice beginner-to-beginner: read a lot, especially about TS safety. Its one of the biggest sources of serious injury in the home shop. I love Taunton's book, and wood magazine and shop notes. Lots of beginner-level ideas in those.


QUESTION FOR YOU EXPERTS OUT THERE: If I keep the old direct-drive benchtop with a dado setup as BW suggests, but fit it with a performance fence, will the fact it is a belt drive or lower HP let me down?

Thanks
Steve El
CentralPA basement slug


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