# Confused on how to replace 605 plane blade



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I know how to remove the blade and all that, but I don’t know where to buy one and how to pick one. I’m getting frustrated on searching because all I find is other forums talking about them and not anyplace that actually sells them specifically for the No. 605 plane. 

I read that some recommend Hock Blades, but when I go to their site I don’t see any charts or model numbers and have no idea how to buy one. I'm not sure if the blades are universal or what.

I don’t want to do anymore searching because it just taking too much time. Does anybody know where I can just buy a new blade without pulling my hair out? :blink:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Takes a 2" wide iron. Hock and Pinnacle are both very good irons.

EDIT:

In other words iron and cap are identical to #5.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

firemedic said:


> Takes a 2" wide iron. Hock and Pinnacle are both very good irons.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> In other words iron and cap are identical to #5.


So should I be searching for "irons" instead of blades?


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

OK that was a big help. I just searched for a 2" wide Pinnacle iron and it took me right to a place that sells them 

So this looks like what I got as a set, but I'm not sure if i need the whole set. how do i know if I need to replace both?
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/20...blade-set-for-veritas-handplanes-4-and-5.aspx


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

The after market irons are thicker, so are the chip breakers. Heavier iron is an improvement, heavier chip breaker is an improvement, together is where you will see the greatest improvement.

$40 ain't bad at all for both, you can expect to pay that for just the Hock iron.

Have you spent time learning how to make the original iron and chip breaker work for ya? Even once you get a new one you should learn proper sharpening and honing on the original ones first because even the most expensive replacements (don't care what anyone says) need to be honed prior to using them and to maintain them. The originals can be used very effectively.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

BTW, be prepared to open up the mouth of the plane when installing an after market iron. It may not be necessary but it often is.

Also, if the lever cap screw head is chewed up you may want to consider changing that as well. Those are available from Stanley Parts services or from Highland Woodworking.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> OK that was a big help. I just searched for a 2" wide Pinnacle iron and it took me right to a place that sells them
> 
> So this looks like what I got as a set, but I'm not sure if i need the whole set. how do i know if I need to replace both?
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/20...blade-set-for-veritas-handplanes-4-and-5.aspx


This link is for a Veritas plane. This uses a Norris style adjuster which is a small round hole.

You need the rectangular hole for the "Y" Stanley style of adjuster.

Lee Valley sell their own replacements for blade and cap iron for Stanley planes.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=66868&cat=1,41182

They also sell the Hock blades.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32692&cat=1,41182,43698&ap=1

Woodcraft do sell the Stanley style blade and cap iron.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/20...de-set-2w-for-stanley-handplanes-4-and-5.aspx


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Good catch Dave :thumbup: you right


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I’ve been watching all the YouTube videos on sharpening and I also just bought a set of DMT Diamond Sharpening Stones, but now I have new dilemma. As I was searching for prices, I came across a brand new hand plane on Amazon for $55 


So now I’m struggling with whether or not to rebuild my dad’s plane or buy a new one. My dad’s been gone for 40 years and its one of only a few hand tools that I have from him. He used these tools everyday to support our family until he died.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

I'd go to the Lee Valley site and buy one of their replacement blades. 

Their steel, fit, finish, and overall quality is as good as any. They have good descriptions, and their tech support is excellent if you need help. Plus, their pricing is always competitive.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Sleeper, you said you have a 605, right? The difference between the worst bedrock ever made and the currently made Stanleys is such that I'd suggest going with the oldie.

The original iron in your 605 is better than the one offered in that new Stanley. Sad but true.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Sleeper said:


> I’ve been watching all the YouTube videos on sharpening and I also just bought a set of DMT Diamond Sharpening Stones, but now I have new dilemma. As I was searching for prices, I came across a brand new hand plane on Amazon for $55
> 
> 
> So now I’m struggling with whether or not to rebuild my dad’s plane or buy a new one. My dad’s been gone for 40 years and its one of only a few hand tools that I have from him. He used these tools everyday to support our family until he died.


You could buy the new plane you saw on amazon but you'll more than likely have to tune and hone the iron anyway. might as well stick with what you've got and feel the sense of pride using your dads.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

firemedic said:


> Sleeper, you said you have a 605, right? The difference between the worst bedrock ever made and the currently made Stanleys is such that I'd suggest going with the oldie.
> 
> The original iron in your 605 is better than the one offered in that new Stanley. Sad but true.


+1 with Firemedic. Very sad but true. Stanley do not make them like they used to.

The 605 you have is a lot better plane than the "Contractor Grade" new one.

In addition the 605 has history and sentimental connection. Using his old plane is a better connection to your father than using a new one.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

gideon said:


> You could buy the new plane you saw on amazon but you'll more than likely have to tune and hone the iron anyway. might as well stick with what you've got and feel the sense of pride using your dads.


 I don’t use it much and I’m responsible for most of the wear and tear from improper sharpening as well as misuse. 
I have to say though, I do feel a connection to my dad when I use it.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Lets see some pics!!!! 

Also, if you get an IBC you'll be filing the mouth wider. I couldn't do that to an old bedrock personally, but to each their own. 

I have used the A2 Veritas replacement blades and cap irons in two of my old stanleys and they are a dream. Now they have that PMV11 steel which is alleged to be the cat's hind quarters. They'll be releasing it for Stanley blades soon. But my A2 holds its edge awesomely and I didn't have to file my planes mouths to fit. They are thicker, but not as thicck as the pinnacles. Beautifully made irons.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

ACP said:


> Lets see some pics!!!!
> 
> Also, if you get an IBC you'll be filing the mouth wider. I couldn't do that to an old bedrock personally, but to each their own.
> 
> I have used the A2 Veritas replacement blades and cap irons in two of my old stanleys and they are a dream. Now they have that PMV11 steel which is alleged to be the cat's hind quarters. They'll be releasing it for Stanley blades soon. But my A2 holds its edge awesomely and I didn't have to file my planes mouths to fit. They are thicker, but not as thicck as the pinnacles. Beautifully made irons.


 I have to think about opening up the month. I made a horrible mistake by selling off all my dad’s planes at a flea market. I was in the process of moving a long distance and I had a box full of specialty planes, some I did not even know what they were for except that they were heavy. I know some were used to make moldings because I remember watching my dad making cove moldings at remodel jobs he took me to. 

Anyway before the flea market opened about 6 or 7 guys swarmed my booth and were interested in the planes. They were arguing among themselves about biding before the place opened and that it wasn’t allowed. Then at the exact moment or seconds before it officially opened one of the guys came back and offered me $50 for the whole box. And I being a stupid kid sold it. Within minutes of him leaving the others showed up and were very upset at what I sold it for. They said they were willing to go as high $800 if a bidding war broke out. 

So here is the plane that I started to cleanup and restore a little. It has some issues with the handles and I don’t know if it’s going to be worth anything when I finish, but it works. :smile:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

*I need new tote and knob for my 605*

My knob has mushroomed from years of tightening and I broke my handle a few years ago when it fell off my peg board (I hate pegboards :thumbdown. Is there some place I could buy a set?

I could make a new knob, but I’m not so sure about the handle, tot, or whatever it’s called

















http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=48302&cat=1,41182,48302


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Any Stanley #5 knob or tote will fit that plane. That's a beautiful looking Bedrock. Go on ebay and get some handles or go find a cheap #5 with some rosewood and steal the tote and knob. If you file the mouth of this plane I'm going to hunt you down. These things regularly go for $100.00 + on ebay depending on the condition. Totes, knobs, blades...all easy replacements, with OEM parts or aftermarket. If it were me I'd scavange some parts off a $10 #5 and then order the veritas blade/chip breaker combo. Provided the sole is flat that it. How hard of a drop did it take. Use a 2 straight edges like you would on a board to check for flatness or twist in the sole. If it's not out of whack (or too bad out of whack) it'd be worth investing $50 in to fix up. Not only is it a beautiful plane but he sentimental value is through the roof.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

You can purchase these, but I get a lot of enjoyment from making the items.

http://www.antique-used-tools.com/comparts.htm

Lee Valley has the template for the tote (handle). Key is to drill the hole while the blank is a rectangle.

See this post.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/stanley-plane-handle-template-42492/

Within the above post is a link by TimeTestedTools for his detailed description with excellent pictures for how to make a tote.

I recently made new knob and tote for two planes.

The rust bucket
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/latest-rust-bucket-plane-43433/

A #7
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/hand-plane-lot-purchase-finale-7-a-43206/


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

It landed upside down bending the top of the blade and breaking the tote. I think the blade took most of the shock and I did use a straight edge to see if anything else bent. So I think with a new blade and tote, it should be good as new. Oh and also a new knob.

I found this template at LeeValley and I’m thinking I might try to make a new tote unless I can find one.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/html/16j4010k.pdf


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Dave I guess we must have posted at the same time because I didn’t notice that you had also posted the LeeValley template, Thanks


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Highland Woodworking has replacement rosewood handle sets for $40.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

*Model Verification needed*

I need to verify for sure that I actually have a Stanley Bedrock No.605 plane because I noticed that the LEVER CAP says SARGENT V-8-M. I can’t believe I didn’t notice this before.

I looked at a lot of SARGENT planes on eBay and they don’t have the No 605 on the back so I believe that somehow the lever cap got mixed up with one I sold at the flea market.
























The next question is what does the leaver cap supposed to look like. I found two 2” and one has the same slot as the Sargent pictured and the other has backwards “6” shape

http://www.antique-used-tools.com/LeverCap2inchCompare.jpg


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Sleeper said:


> I need to verify for sure that I actually have a Stanley Bedrock No.605 plane because I noticed that the LEVER CAP says SARGENT V-8-M. I can’t believe I didn’t notice this before.
> 
> I looked at a lot of SARGENT planes on eBay and they don’t have the No 605 on the back so I believe that somehow the lever cap got mixed up with one I sold at the flea market.
> 
> ...


The link shows how the Stanley lever cap has evolved. Initially it did not have "STANLEY" embedded.

Then they added "STANLEY" and later they patented the "kidney" shaped hole. They claimed this shape prevented the lever cap from riding up during use.

The casting is a Bedrock #605. Many of the parts are interchangeable with competitor planes of the period.

The lever cap should be the same width as the blade. In this case 2in is the blade width.

The specific design of the level cap would depend on the "type" analogous to a version of the plane.

There are a number of sites which allow you to determine the "type", but these are based on having all the original parts.

You have a bit of a catch-22. You may need the original cap lever to determine the type so you can determine what the original cap lever looked like.

Unless you are trying to collect a plane with the all original parts, I would not worry. 

You can either leave the Sargent lever cap on the plane, or decide whether you like the straight keyhole slot or the kidney shaped slot.

I like the look of the straight keyhole, but this is just a personal preference. Choose whichever you prefer.

The back of the lever cap should have a steel plate to protect the lever from scratching the lever cap. Some inexpensive Stanley models eliminated this plate to save manufacturing costs.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Thanks Dave, I don’t care that much about the “kidney shape”, but it does bother me that it says Sargent on a Stanley plane. 

I was thinking about trying to restore it to a collectable tool, but with all the things wrong and mismatched, I now just want it to work. 

There are some with “Stanley” listed on eBay in both the straight and the “kidney” slot. I guess I’ll just go for the cheapest and best shipping. :smile:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

It's just a user plane, right? There is no reason not to use the lever cap you already have. 

The wood don't care what your lever cap says.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

firemedic said:


> It's just a user plane, right? There is no reason not to use the lever cap you already have.
> 
> The wood don't care what your lever cap says.


 Yes it is just going to be a wood plane that I’ll use and I’m probably being ridiculous, but I know I can buy one now and not so sure about later. 

I’m going to throw away my No.3 plane because I don’t have a clue as to what it is and its cracked. The lever cap on it is just a tiny bit smaller, but it fits and doesn’t say Sargent. I may use it although it does have a small nick and that may start to bother me at some point. :laughing:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

That would be a poor decision to place form before function on a user plane. The lever cap is intended to be the same width as the iron for good reason. Every little bit of chatter you can prevent with a more solid assembly the better.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

firemedic said:


> That would be a poor decision to place form before function on a user plane. The lever cap is intended to be the same width as the iron for good reason. Every little bit of chatter you can prevent with a more solid assembly the better.


Oh! I didn't think of that.  I'm glad you mentioned it, thanks.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I've been looking for a lever cap like that. How much you want for it?

The #3 cap that is.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

First I would ask why you are buying a new blade. 

Take a look at some of my blogs, the first 3 on plane restoration, making a tote and turning a knob should be helpful, http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/index/

Don't buy into the fact that a new iron is going to make your plane work better. I've replaced one iron in over 300 restorations, and that one was just pitted beyond repair.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

ACP said:


> I've been looking for a lever cap like that. How much you want for it?
> 
> The #3 cap that is.


I’m still thinking about it. I want to try welding the #3 bed first then I’ll let you know



timetestedtools said:


> First I would ask why you are buying a new blade. .


 Well the blade is bent and I can’t straighten it.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

timetestedtools said:


> Take a look at some of my blogs, the first 3 on plane restoration, making a tote and turning a knob should be helpful, http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/index/


 Oh my, when I look at what you have done and it deeply saddens me to think that I sold all of my dad’s planes for nothing. I wish I would have talked to someone before selling them. Now I want to label and inventory all my stuff so that my kids will know what the true value is when i pass on. 

I don’t mind if they sell off my stuff, but I want them get a fair price for them and not throw them into the garbage. :no:


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

> I don’t mind if they sell off my stuff, but I want them get a fair price for them and not throw them into the garbage.


I've been struggling with the same thoughts. 

Or let them go in box lots for $5 each at some auction!!


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Wow, I was just looking on eBay and I cannot believe what these planes are going for. Maybe I should try to restore this plane. I just wish I knew what the correct lever cap was.

I was also looking at the #607 22” planes to replace one I lost and I see one already at $218 and it still has a day and a half to go. I added it to my watch list to see what the ending bid is going to be.


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