# DeWalt MBC 9" RAS, 1955



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I found a RAS, came mounted on a vintage Cornwell tool cab.
This thing was way out of adjustment.
These are fully adjustable, that means, it takes considerable amount of time to fully adjust it:huh:
I looked at a few of these, this one was more complete, unmolested, all the red knobs, no bent handles, and with the original maple table, with manuals, original sales recipt $239 in 1955.
I found for this machine to do a really good crosscut, the table must be flat, I carefully hand planed it very flat on both sides.
I discovered that, along with machine adjustments, how I pull the blade head is important, if pulling from off to one side, the cut wont be square.
The pull motion must be straight to avoid deflecting the arm/elevating post.
The saw is rated at only 1/2hp, but it seems to have plenty of power.
This solved a problem I was having, to just crosscut a board when my TS had something else going on, like a box joint set up.
I do feel a couple hundred bucks for this, is better then buying something new at Lowes for more.
The green splatter paint is pretty cool also:thumbsup:


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*that saw has found a good home!*

Used within it's limitations it will do most everything you will need. The additional cutting depth of a larger dia saw is rarely needed. That's a sweet old saw. As you said always pull the blade into the work and hold it securely against the fence. A new blade should have zero or negative hook angle to avoid climbing into the work. The Freud Diablo series will be OK with a lower HP saw, but may not be available in a 9". I just found an 8 1/4" myself recently. 

Amazon.com: Freud LU84R009 9-Inch 40 Tooth ATBF Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement

Dust collection will prove a challenge if you want to angle the arm from 90 degrees. If not there are some simple methods...I use a small box behind the blade which is connected to a Shop Vac. Here's another method:






Observe the technique of pushing the cut off away to the right with the remaining stock before making another cut.


----------



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Thanks for the link on the blade, this saw came with a 8 1/4" deWalt 24 tooth.
The Dewalt is not your ordinary saw as this photo shows, cutting plywood with the blade inches from your chest, safely and quickly!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Used within it's limitations it will do most everything you will need. The additional cutting depth of a larger dia saw is rarely needed. That's a sweet old saw. As you said always pull the blade into the work and hold it securely against the fence. A new blade should have zero or negative hook angle to avoid climbing into the work. The Freud Diablo series will be OK with a lower HP saw, but may not be available in a 9". I just found an 8 1/4" myself recently.
> 
> Amazon.com: Freud LU84R009 9-Inch 40 Tooth ATBF Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement


I think the stats on that blade shows a 15° hook...too aggressive. My first RAS was a 9", and the problem is that there isn't much of a selection for the correct blades, and they can get pricey.









 







.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A zero hook blade will be very hard to locate*

For a long time RAS's were sold with conventional table saw type blades with 15 degree hooks and while they did tend to climb a bit they were used until the "blade boys" firgured out they were too aggressive. That probably was the reason there were so many accidents using the RAS...just my WAG...
I Forrest makes a 9" miter blade, but it is pricey and doesn't state the hook angle AFAICT:
Amazon.com: Forrest MM09806 Miter Master 9-Inch 80 Tooth 5/8-Inch Arbor .105-Inch Kerf Wood Cutting Circular Saw Blade: Home Improvement


----------



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

This is it, Forrest blade 9" 5 degree hook,
$108.
I think its worth the price to avoid problems.
http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.c...ade_for_Older_9_DeWalt_Radial_Arm_Saws__.html


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I tried using the saw feeding from left to right like the guy in the above video.
Made me too nervous, I want to keep my dear body parts over to the right side of the machine, left hand on the saw head, right hand on the opposite side of the blade end of the motor.
I am going to set up my cutter grinder, and grind the blade that came with the saw to 5 degree hook, should work out good, I have sharpened metal slitting saws before.
The table has a pretty deep and wide blade path from past use, I am thinking of carefully using a dado, square that up, lay and glue a strip of maple there, getting some wood blow out on the board bottoms.


----------



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

I have a few hours of use on this machine now.
After spending some time getting it adjusted, table flat ect, this little machine does a great job. Cross cuts up to 15", goes through 2" thick-10" wide hard maple without much complaint, nice finished and square edges, accurate 45 miters.
I didnt need a portable saw like a compound sliding miter saw, so this fit my needs very well.
No lasers, lacking in dust collection, and perhaps in safety features, but easy to use, much more solid construction then the compound sliding miter saws, and cost less.
I did some ripping on it, worked well, but, I would rather use the table saw for that.
A valuable addition to my wood working for sure.

On Blades,
Freud has in thier Diablo line, Blades for sliding miter saws that have the correct hook angle "5 degrees".
For this 9" saw, a 8 1/2" 60 tooth, fine finish, thin curf, works very well, no climb, just smooth cut, and only $42.


----------



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Came up with this push block to hold work to the fence, without my hand being flat and under the motor.
Works good cross cut, and doing miters, when the holding hand is on the blade side of the motor.
Scrap pieces, with sand paper glued on the work side, makes sliding the work piece to my mark easy, hand clear of the blade.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Benny are you a lefty?*

From the photo it looks like it. My RAS saw has about 48" of table to the left of the blade as I am a righty and pull the saw with my dominant right hand and hold the work with my left hand. That way I'm not pulling the motor over top of my hand as you would have to do in the photo, hence your hold down idea. 
Consider making a new table which extends farther to the left if you like the idea.


----------



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Yes, I see the logic in that!
There is only a few inches on the left in this stock setup.
This is how the Dewalt directions say to use the saw as it sits.
This saw, I will only most likely use for simple cut off and miters and leave as is, at this time because of my space considerations

I am seeing more the useful things that this type of saw has the ability, to do.
When I can, I am going to knock out some walls in the basement, giving me much more room----and get a bigger radial saw, bulding a dedicated long bench along a wall.


----------



## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Benny,

I wondered the same thing as bill, whether you're a lefty. I'm surprised that the DeWalt manual says to hold the stock with your right hand and pull with your left as that is counter-intuitive, I don't like doing it that way by having the motor over my hand, either, so I like your push block.

I always keep a work support at the left side of my RAS for longer stock. 

Bill


----------



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Thanks for the input guys! I have only gone motorized for around 6 months.
The vintage not much to it manuals shows using either hand.
Like here, I have the saw, but not the bench or the babe.









The table being small, the only way to reasonably do miter cuts, is swing the arm to the right, use the right hand on the saw head, support the work with the left hand.









I am used to standing and working from the right side of machines, most all metal working machines are that way.
This little saw runs out of table space, on the left when cross cutting, on the right when cutting miters.

There is about 10" of table to the left when cross cutting, just not enough room unless rigging up a work support.
For this little saw its not a big deal to me when I can feed work from right to left.
I need to be able to push this saw out of the way at times. I am starting to get a little crowded, but not as crazy as the metal working tools in the garage.

This little RAS is replacing this "photo", and doing it better then I expected.
When I carve out more space, I think a long bench is the way to go, and a bigger RAS.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*FIW 12" RAS setup*

Benny here's my setup for a 12" Craftsman RAS. I use a 10" blade on it although it's a 12" saw. The 5/8" arbor makes it a bit difficult to find 12" blades which are usually a 1" arbor. Yeah I know bushings and all, but I really haven't come across a need for the full depth cut on this saw. I do have a 12" Dewalt SCMS for those 3 1/2 cuts on a 4 X 4 for example. I would not necessarily rush out and get a 14" RAS until the "need" arises if I were you. A blade that large can be very intimidating (read unsafe) and if it's an older model it won't have the best blade cover/guard.


Evey so often I slap some Bondo in the saw kerf, sand it flush and get a new precise kerf. The 3/4" plywood table sits on 2" X 1/4" thick angles that run the full length under the top and extend off the metal base both ways, right and left.  bill


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*More 12" RAS setup*

I have a long stick (shown above) as a fence to which I can clamp a stop for precise cutoffs up to 96". The small shop vac gets the blade dust the large one under the table gets the large quantity of dust spit off to the rear and contained in the catch box. There's a hole in the table as a suction port. A foot switch turns it on and off without reaching underneath. The table is just one 3/4" piece and the fence is screw to the top after it gets squared to the blade. A little oversize in the screw holes allow for precise adjustment. A moveable magnet mounted light on a steel plate goesd where it's needed.  bill


----------



## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

That is a nice set up! Thanks for showing me that.
You have ample room on the left. The dust control is a for real plus also.

I am not in a rush to get another RAS, there must be over 50 for sale within 100 miles of me. And at that, I will find one with a 5/8" arbor.

This little DeWalt is low power, from past experience, its best not to bog down 50yr old single phase motors.

This saw actually takes up less space then a new sliding miter saw, and is doing outstanding cuts that I dont have to shoot with a plane.


----------

