# Can something be done with this?



## S Hobbs (Jun 12, 2012)

So,, my neighbor felled a tree last year and I put this log on the side of my house thinking...one day?.. One day is here. Is the anything that can be done with something like this? Slab cuts for rustic tables, blocks to learn to turn? It was a carrot wood tree. I am in so cal and do not have access to milling equip. Anyone out there near me that does?









It's about 45 in long and 12-20 diameter.

Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Many would kill for the shapiness and gnarlyness of that thing.
I don't have a clue of the characteristics of carrot wood(?). 
I would slab it out for coffee tables and try to get 2, 2" thick bookmatched pieces out of it.

I'm sure others will have better ideas.


----------



## stevem2 (Jun 13, 2010)

Square the ends, remove the bark and use it for a table support?


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

It would come close to making 2 kitchen table supports or 3 coffee table supports (27" or 16", but the top thickness needs subtracted)


----------



## S Hobbs (Jun 12, 2012)

aardvark said:


> Many would kill for the shapiness and gnarlyness of that thing.
> I don't have a clue of the characteristics of carrot wood(?).
> I would slab it out for coffee tables and try to get 2, 2" thick bookmatched pieces out of it.
> 
> I'm sure others will have better ideas.


So I found a new piece of wood I am thinking to use as a base for a coffee table with this log slabbed. But this pice is huge and wondering what is the best way to dry it. It is currently in my garage. Temps range 75-95. I have a thermostatic ventilation set at 95. Then I need to figure out how to level the top. How long should I let it dry?


----------



## stevem2 (Jun 13, 2010)

FWIW: 

I'd start to level it with a chain saw and cut off the half sticking up.

Then to level it use a router with the wood on a level surface. Router mounts on a frame work jig to support the router which would be in a narrow "C" channeled sled that rode on the frame work that allowed it to move fore and aft, right and left. You can adjust depth of cut at the router.

That round will split! You might consider a plunge cut on one side all the way to the heart center full length. That will more or less force the split to where you want it. Again a chain saw would work. You can fill the cut line later with a matching piece of tapered wood if needed for appearance sake.

Probably take about three to four years to dry but the length won't change with the drying and a finish could be applied before completely dry. Sealing both ends with some sort of finish or wax based sealer will slow the drying and reduce splitting.


----------



## S Hobbs (Jun 12, 2012)

stevem2 said:


> FWIW:
> 
> I'd start to level it with a chain saw and cut off the half sticking up.
> 
> ...


Thanks Steve, I will have to borrow a chain saw. Should I cut the top before cutting to the center? I am new to this. Will it split immediately or during the drying process?


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

You can actually buy a electric chainsaw fairly cheap (under $60.00), and then you have access to one. My shop unit is a 14" and I use it for many furniture projects for cutting/shaping pieces. Beauty is they require very little maintenance. Use caution with them. They will cut you up like the big boys.

Agree with the others on leveling that log off so it dries more even. As a rule it will crack. Drilling it and notching might help, but it's the nature of the beast to even get hairline cracks in the ends. Slow drying or actually submersing it in Glycol will aid in the cracking. I've never done the glycol thingy, but am told it takes the moisture out fast.


----------



## stevem2 (Jun 13, 2010)

S Hobbs said:


> Thanks Steve, I will have to borrow a chain saw. Should I cut the top before cutting to the center? I am new to this. Will it split immediately or during the drying process?


The start of the splits are already there. It can happen within hours of being cut. Your just trying to reduce the gap and control where they will occur. doesn't harm the load carrying capability of the wood, just appearance. Wood drys from end grain a lot faster than the sides so the ends become "smaller" than the center sooner. Also the late wood and early wood (light ring verses dark ring) shrink at a different rate thus internal stress that cause cracking. And with the whole round you have opposing forces of shrinkage. Any piece of wood with heart center (pith) will crack, be it a board, beam, or timber because of the opposing forces. That's one cause that make boards cup as they dry. 

Glycol will replace the inter cellular water thus preventing the shrinkage and expansion with humidity changes. All you every wanted to know about glycol: http://owic.oregonstate.edu/pubs/peg.pdf

Enjoy your wood


----------

