# Table saw jointer options?



## borisw37 (Jul 28, 2010)

Got a couple piece of fairly rough boards that I need to joint the edges on.
Saw a couple jigs to do it on a table saw. Some use the T-slots as a reference some use the table saw fence. Is there a difference / preference?
Seems like the ones that use the fence are easier to build since the width adjustment is already built into the fence...


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

borisw37 said:


> Got a couple piece of fairly rough boards that I need to joint the edges on.
> Saw a couple jigs to do it on a table saw. Some use the T-slots as a reference some use the table saw fence. Is there a difference / preference?
> Seems like the ones that use the fence are easier to build since the width adjustment is already built into the fence...


 
Hi - Don't know just what your stuff looks like but Rockler has jointing clamps where you clamp the bowed board to a straight one and run it throught the table saw.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6415&filter=jointing clamps



:smile:


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Sometimes it is possible to screw the piece to be jointed to a straight board. Put the screws through the waste and then trim the opposite edge.

With the opposite edge now straight, remove the screws and trim the edge where the screws were.


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## borisw37 (Jul 28, 2010)

Built this little widget today. Fairly simple construction:
a 2'x4' 3/4 birch plywood
6' x 3/4" piece of oak for the miter slot
a 2x4
1/2" bolts, washers and wingnuts
two toggle clamps with longer screws installed so they can reach below the level they are mounted on.
I cut 1/2" slots and 1" wide recess for the carriage bolts to slide in. This allows me to adjust for just about any board width.
Not claiming to be the original inventor of the design, but this is my version:
The board clamped down in the pic is a piece of very rough sawn lumber that did not have a single straight edge. Checking the results with a level showed no more than a 0.005 gap here and there and thats using a low tooth count ripping blade. The edge can probably be even better with a second pass using a 60T blade.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

:thumbsup: Nice jig.


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## Kirkus (Dec 19, 2010)

Oh, I like that. I think shop-built jigs are usually the best anyway. Nice job!


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

The sled I made just had a movable fence with 2 hold downs on it. I prefer the miter slot guide, as when your done making the sled, just run it in the miter slot and cut the sled to size. Now, you just have to line the cut line up with the edge of the jig.


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## kg7il (Feb 24, 2011)

*and after the cut.*

When the cut is complete, you may still have sawmarks.
A small shop may not have a jointer or other method to clean-up the cut. Again, the table saw can handle this.

A beveled sander can work as a jointer on your table saw.

The board runs between the fence and the disc's tangent.
When set to 7 degrees, the radius of the bevel is square to the table.









Some discussion can be found at http://everythingdulcimer.com/discuss/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22359


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## joek30296 (Dec 16, 2009)

borisw37,
Good looking jig. Hope you don't mind if I copy it. ("Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery")

Just curious though, any particular reason for cutting to left of blade instead of right? Will it work either way?

joe


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Clamping to a straightedge works well. Using the miter slot for a sled of sorts won't help much if you want to joint a long board (unless you have an outfeed table with an accurate slot). Using the fence would be the way to go for that. There should be an outfeed table to carry the cut board.












 







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