# low $$$ router table and circle jig



## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

this is my low $$$ router table. i don't have the need for a big permanent router table, though i seem to use this one more and more.










all routers have mounting nuts in the base. get some bolts, measure the distance between them and the center of the bit.










layout your bolt holes and drill some holes. counter sink the bolt and washer heads. i cut the bit hole base on the largest bit i normally use.










that's it. kiss (keep it simple stupid) i did add a few screw holes to fasten it to my table.










i've also used it on the job site or just outside to minimize mdf dust in the shop


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

*cheap a$$ circle jig*

i made these speaker inclosures for the 58 chevy truck in my avatar a while back.
here's how to cut speaker rings on my cheap a$$ router table; 

i see a lot of people using a jigsaw to cut rings and do a poor job at it. yes you can use a jigsaw. you realy need a router to round over. my 1978 router burned up, i bought this one at home depot for $49. i don't like plunge router, never did, never had a need for one.

i'll show you how to make this speaker ring. these are for my kick panels.










when i do my layout, i draw everything full scale on the mdf. i drill a 1/8" hole in the center of each ring. then i drill 1/4" holes where i want to route a groove. there are 2 sets of rings on this board. the top ring and the bottom ring. i'm doing a reccessed ring for the speaker.
first you want to cut the outside of the ring and then the inside of the ring. if you reverse the order and cut the inside first, then you have no pivot to cut the outside. place the outside hole over the 1/4" spiral bit and use a screw thru the center hole to screw it down the the table.










cut to the marks










my photo of cutting the inside did work, so i move on. place the big ring on the outer hole, screw down the center and cut to the mark. 










then place the inside hole over the bit and cut 90% around the hole.










you can cut all the way, but you risk digging in with the router bit. tape the cutout securely in place










and then finish the cut 










peal the tape and you have this










i used a bandsaw to finish the arc connecting the 2 rings, then sanded all the edges smooth to get rid of machine marks and did a test fit










then i used a 3/8" roundover bit to dress the inside radius and 1/4" roundover bit to do the outside radius, raising the bit to get a 1/8" rabbit for stapling the cloth on.










buy a good cabide spiral cut bit. it will pay you back in labor savings. i had a tool steel straight cut bit and had to make 3 passes to cut each ring. these spiral cut bits are sweet!

yes, there are 10 ways to cut rings. this is how i do it.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

and not that this has anything to do with wood working...
these are the finished kick panel speakers for my truck

finished frame work










covered in fabric










first layer of fiberglass










a few more layers of glass, some body filler, wrapped in vinyl and installed in my truck


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

i will be using this same jig to cut a thein baffle for my shop vac dust collection system
i'll post pics when i do


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

If I had the room, being as I seem to attract routers, from garage sales! I would make a simple table, and have a few routers in it. Each with a different radius roundover bit. It would be a time saver. Sort of like having 3 or more bench grinders, with different wheels on it. I have a single pedestal, with 3 grinders on it, and am thinking of adding a 4th that I came across.

I have a router table in my ext table on my ts, which is nice to use, but a simple board with a router bolted to it works also. It would sure beat the crappy small metal Craftsman "router table" a friend gave me!


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Here is a great guide for routing different profiles using 3 basic bits. 

It's what turned me on to the idea of having multiple router tables.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...kXkRkL&sig=AHIEtbQo-8WbStIxRqc2WJlFeu81aFz0ZQ


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## robjac (Sep 8, 2014)

speaker grills looks nice.. What kind of speaker did you install ? 
good job..


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

i used some 5 1/4'' arc audio components, 4 sets; kicks and doors
here are the door panels and sub enclosure using this same low buck router table







and a shop vac converted into thein baffle, mice had destroyed the blue shop vac. 
i cut off the motor and bolted the thein baffle to the quick release top section.
the bottom picture shows shop vac and thein baffle after cleaning up under my table saw
even this small baffle cuts shop vac filter clean out to a minimum


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

sub/amp enclosure for behind the seat of my truck
cut the speaker ring with low buck router table
the rest is just me showing off 

base


fiberglassed: battery, sub, console and 2 amps behind driver


painted


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## robjac (Sep 8, 2014)

thanks.. very good job, looks nice.. found your grills on ebay :thumbsup:


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## gj13us (Apr 19, 2016)

_Ogre said:


> this is my low $$$ router table. i don't have the need for a big permanent router table, though i seem to use this one more and more.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Given that the KISS router table is unsupported on one end, do you have a problem with sagging of flexing?


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

not really, if you look at the top pick the router is very close to the workbench. i did have to bullnose the ends of 4 foot 5/4 stair tread this summer and needed to put a stiff leg under the far end. i just cut a 1x2 to length and stuck it in next to the router. typically this is not a problem, but with the 4' length i was using 3/4 melamine on the back side of the workbench and needed to prop it up flat to the melamine support


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

since this thread popped up... i had to replace the low $$ router table due to the amount of screw holes i had in it from making all those speaker rings. with some slights modifications. :grin:

first poor planning had the router switch in a bad location and there was less room for wrench swing on bit changes. 1st mod was to rotate the router for better switch access and wrench swing

next mod was for dust collection with a shop vac. you can see the added shop vac port auxiliary fence on top. another dust port on a box screwed to the bottom of the table. it's either or, not both as i use a single port shop vac, though i could use 2 shop vacs. it has greatly improved the dust collection (seeing as i had none previously)


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

last mod was a router lift for the low $$ router table, _well sort of_ :grin:

i had never noticed this 5mm hex end on the router height adjustment before
i drilled a corresponding hole in the router table to match the hole in the router
drop the 5mm nut driver in the hole and turn

walla, i have a router lift on the low $$ router table
well sort of :vs_cool:


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

I recently needed a new router and finally decided on the Triton 3.25hp. I chose it for several reasons but one is that it came with its own thru table router lift. I also ordered Kregs router table insert designed for the Triton routers and with a piece of 3/4" melanine from a big box store I had a pretty darn nice router table for about what some router lifts alone cost.
Ogre I really like your speaker boxes and will probably use your process for future projects. How well did your thien baffle work for you? Any problems with clogging? Mine doesnt seem to like planer or jointer chips much and I have to keep an eye on it so it doesnt clog up.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

i rarely use my thien baffle, chips probably clog the hose more than the thien
thanks, built my speakers 9 years ago with the truk in my avatar


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

new router lift installed :grin:


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