# Setting up an old Craftsman Jointer



## larsbunch (Jun 1, 2012)

I bought an old Sears Craftsman 6" Jointer. This is my first experience with a jointer and I am going to have to learn a few things about how to use it. It's in ok condition, but I believe the blades need to be adjusted. 










I made a few test cuts and here's what tends to happen. As I move the wood (on edge) across the cutter, at first it seems to lay flat on the outfeed table, but after about 1/3 of the way through, if I am not careful, the board will rock forward as I apply a bit of downward pressure on the outfeed side. This can't be right. Does this seem like a blade or table adjustment problem or am I not feeding the wood across the cutter properly? (Actually I haven't checked if the outfeed table might be warped... it doesn't appear to be, but I don't have a really good straight edge, and currently I'm at work and can't check it.)

Second, I get a pretty significant bit of snipe at the end of every board. About 1/3 to 1/2 inch. I assume this is because the blades are not set properly. I ordered a Oneway Multi-Gauge Dial Indicator and it should come today. As far as I understand, I need to set the blades to be level with the outfeed table (or perhaps one or two thousands of an inch above)

On this model, the outfeed table is fixed and cannot be adjusted in relationship to the cutter so I assume I will have to be extra careful to get the blades adjusted exactly. There doesn't seem to be any adjustments to ensure that the infeed and outfeed tables are co-planer so I may be stuck with what I have on that issue.

Anyway, I've looked at a few videos on setting up jointers, but they mostly deal with higher end models with more adjustment points than this thing has.

Any advice on how to adjust or how to properly use this jointer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Lars


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

After you get the blades set to out feed table height and are checking for co-planer try this test. Check for co-planer both after increasing depth of cut and also decreasing depth of cut and see if one is more accurate than the other. 

The reason for this is that in general anything that moves has clearance and in some instances clearance can be called slop as in the kind of machines I have.:laughing: Also threaded adjustment parts will have thread slack so when I adjust depth of cut I like to over shoot on the thicker cut side and then decrease thickness of cut back to the desired depth and hope that's where the two tables are co-planer.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Yours is a bit newer than mine but, It looks to be basically the same machine. It sounds as if the right end of the infeed bed is lower than the left ( blade end).
The first thing you want to do is insure that the beds are co-planar. Adjusting the infeed bed is a royal PITA!! You almost need two people to do it. One on his back with the wrenches and one with the straight edge on top. The out feed is not adjustable.
Next, get the blades sharpened. Then, get an alignment jig. Here's an article about using one. JIG
You'll want to set your blades so that, when the infeed and out feed beds are even, the sharp edge of the blade at TDC is exactly even with the beds. To make things easier, When you find TDC with one blade, scribe a line on the fence, then go over it with a Sharpie. Then, finding TDC on the other two will be easier.
Good luck.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's a link*

It shows how to set the blade height using a simple bar of aluminum or wood which has a flat surface on the bottom An aluminum builders level will work also. It should just touch the bar ever so lightly and push it ahead about 1/16" to 1/8". It will be very close, but not perfect. 

Get that right first then worry about co-planer tables and all....
If they are not, shimming the gibs on the infeed is rather sophisticated....

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/honing-jointer-blades-how-10066/


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

That's a polite way of saying it....and an understatement.:yes:



woodnthings said:


> It shows how to set the blade height using a simple bar of aluminum or wood which has a flat surface on the bottom Am aluminum builders level will work also. It should just touch the bar ever so lightly and push it ahead about 1/16" to 1/8". It will be very close, but not perfect.
> Get that right first then worry about co-planer tables and all....
> *If they are not, shimming the gibs on the infeed is rather sophisticated....*
> 
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/honing-jointer-blades-how-10066/


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Beware of the understated...*



Gene Howe said:


> That's a polite way of saying it....and an understatement.:yes:


You got my drift.... :yes:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Gene Howe said:


> Yours is a bit newer than mine but, It looks to be basically the same machine. It sounds as if the right end of the infeed bed is lower than the left ( blade end).
> The first thing you want to do is insure that the beds are co-planar. Adjusting the infeed bed is a royal PITA!! You almost need two people to do it. One on his back with the wrenches and one with the straight edge on top. The out feed is not adjustable.
> Next, get the blades sharpened. Then, get an alignment jig. Here's an article about using one. JIG
> You'll want to set your blades so that, when the infeed and out feed beds are even, the sharp edge of the blade at TDC is exactly even with the beds. To make things easier, When you find TDC with one blade, scribe a line on the fence, then go over it with a Sharpie. Then, finding TDC on the other two will be easier.
> Good luck.


I think that you will find that Craftsman recommends that the blades be 1 sheet of paper thickness ABOVE the outfeed bed. At least that is what my Craftsman manual states. I would imagine that all Craftsman manuals are the same in this regard.

George


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> I think that you will find that Craftsman recommends that the blades be 1 sheet of paper thickness ABOVE the outfeed bed. At least that is what my Craftsman manual states. I would imagine that all Craftsman manuals are the same in this regard.
> 
> George


I don't have the manual. Thanks for the correction, George.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*what type of paper?*



GeorgeC said:


> I think that you will find that Craftsman recommends that *the blades be 1 sheet of paper *thickness ABOVE the outfeed bed. At least that is what my Craftsman manual states. I would imagine that all Craftsman manuals are the same in this regard.
> 
> George


Newsprint? Card stock? Bond? it's ridiculous, in my opinion. :thumbdown:
Level with the blades is what I've done for years and with the method I use I wouldn't be surprised if they are a touch higher anyhow, since the bar is moved slightly. If you want to use that method fine, but it's not for me. 

The guys who write owner's manuals, are not always the sharpest knife in the the set.... based on personal experience, I worked with some at GM when I worked there. They asked me for help in reorganizing the manuals back in the '70's. Our research showed virtually no one read them unless it was using about the radio/sound system, on which setting the time was very important to some. Finding and changing the spare tire was also very important. :yes: bill


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I've been using that model jointer for 40 years. That is why I'm on Craigslist every day looking to replace it. What Woodnthings doesn't tell you is it's very hard to get the blades level with the rear table. Back when I could see it was hard because the blades need to be within a 1000th of an inch level with the rear table for it to work right. Now it's almost impossible. Most jointers are made with a rear table that is adjustable. If it was you could set all three knives in close and then adjust the rear table up or down to match the knives. The block the knives set on have an adjustment where you can raise or lower them with an allen wrench. The trick is when you tighten the knives the blades rise up so you will have to get a feel for how much to have the knives below the rear table when you tighten them they rise up to the table heigth. Since I don't see as well as I used to this sometimes takes me hours. All it takes is one of the three knives to be up too far to throw the whole thing off.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Here is a picture of a magnetic gauge that holds the blades in place while tightening the gibs.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Steve I'm on my way over to your shop...*

This just shouldn't be that difficult. I can do it in under 15 minutes. Your jointer should have the leveling screws under the knives for ease of setting, if not then I feel your pain.
The fixed rear table doesn't enter into the equation the way I do it, since it's the reference and shouldn't be changed in the setting process even if it is of the adjustable variety. The blades must be at the same height regardless of whether the rear table is adjustable or not...... :yes:
Where's your shop? Call me. :laughing: bill

BTW I bought a Chinese made 6" jointer off Craig's List and it didn't have the leveling screws, so I removed the head had a machine shop bore and thread the 6 holes...$40.00 and worth every penny.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> Newsprint? Card stock? Bond? it's ridiculous, in my opinion. :thumbdown:
> Level with the blades is what I've done for years and with the method I use I wouldn't be surprised if they are a touch higher anyhow, since the bar is moved slightly. If you want to use that method fine, but it's not for me.
> 
> The guys who write owner's manuals, are not always the sharpest knife in the the set.... based on personal experience, I worked with some at GM when I worked there. They asked me for help in reorganizing the manuals back in the '70's. Our research showed virtually no one read them unless it was using about the radio/sound system, on which setting the time was very important to some. Finding and changing the spare tire was also very important. :yes: bill


Oh yes. Standard 20# bond.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Gene Howe said:


> I don't have the manual. Thanks for the correction, George.


You should be able to get the manual either from Sears or from ManageMyLife.com

George


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## larsbunch (Jun 1, 2012)

Thanks for in the information. The blades seem to be set to 1/100 inch above the outfeed table. I'll set them to even or around 1/1000 above and see if that reduces the snipe. I'll have to stick my head under the thing to see if I can figure out how to adjust the infeed table so it is co-planer, but I'll worry about that later.

Again, thank you. This information is very helpful.

Lars


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> This just shouldn't be that difficult. I can do it in under 15 minutes. Your jointer should have the leveling screws under the knives for ease of setting, if not then I feel your pain.
> The fixed rear table doesn't enter into the equation the way I do it, since it's the reference and shouldn't be changed in the setting process even if it is of the adjustable variety. The blades must be at the same height regardless of whether the rear table is adjustable or not...... :yes:
> Where's your shop? Call me. :laughing: bill
> 
> BTW I bought a Chinese made 6" jointer off Craig's List and it didn't have the leveling screws, so I removed the head had a machine shop bore and thread the 6 holes...$40.00 and worth every penny.


 This jointer has been like that since day one. It has the leveling block with the set screws and you can get the blades set perfectly and when you torque the blades down to tighten them the blades rise up. I have to set the blades slightly low so when I torque them down they rise up level with the rear table. Sometimes I set the blades too low and have to do it over and then get them too high and repeat the process over and over until it works. I've been needing to sharpen the blades on mine for a couple of months now and I can't stand the idea of doing it.

My shop is in Texas. When should I expect you! No the jointer fit my needs at one time but I've outgrown it. I really need a minimum 8" jointer with a longer bed. I hope to replace it this year and I bet I will still find other uses for the craftsman.


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## larsbunch (Jun 1, 2012)

Thanks for the suggestions.

The blades had been set to about 2/100 of an inch above the outfeed table. I re-set them to about 1/1000 above. This seems to have effectively eliminated the bad snipe I was getting. But I discovered a new problem. I suspect the blades have been sharpened unevenly because when the edge of the blade is about 1/1000 above the table, the center of the blade is about 2/1000 below. I suppose I have to learn to sharpen the blades myself, so now is as good a time as any to start.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*There are 2 types of hold downs*



Steve Neul said:


> This jointer has been like that since day one. It has the leveling block with the set screws and you can get the blades set perfectly and when you torque the blades down to tighten them the blades rise up. I have to set the blades slightly low so when I torque them down they rise up level with the rear table. Sometimes I set the blades too low and have to do it over and then get them too high and repeat the process over and over until it works. I've been needing to sharpen the blades on mine for a couple of months now and I can't stand the idea of doing it.
> 
> My shop is in Texas. When should I expect you! No the jointer fit my needs at one time but I've outgrown it. I really need a minimum 8" jointer with a longer bed. I hope to replace it this year and I bet I will still find other uses for the craftsman.


Steve,
My oldest Craftsman has long wedged shaped bars that retain the blades. They are drawn down and locked by screws that are radial to the cutterhead and are easy to use without shifting the blades.

The newer types and similar on Jet and Chinese/Taiwan imports have screws that are perpendicular to the blades and wedge the blades against the cutterhead slot. These are more difficult to adjust because the torque of the screws shifts the blade as you tighten them. Make certain the gibs, the blades and the surfaces of the cutterhead are perfectly clean and smooth by sanding them lightly with 320 wet/dry. A thin coating of grease will cause them to "stick" together while assembling them. 

It has been suggested by mdntrdr that old speaker magnets be used to hold the blade even with the outfeed table since they are very powerful. :thumbsup: 

BTW lars good news! And yes, sharpening or honing them yourself will be a big asset in your shop. Serach this forum for tips on the methods and jigs you will need.


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