# Wheels on Lathes?



## Podus (Feb 14, 2013)

Okay... here's one for you guys. I am currently using a Jet 1014 on a Jet Cast Iron stand. The first thing I did when I got that machine was to put locking casters on the legs so I could move it around the shop. Now admittedly, I turn slowly as I find extra body parts to be in short supply, but I have never locked those casters and I have never had my lathe move while turning.

So... if I got a larger lathe, what would be wrong with putting casters (appropriately sized of course) on it? As I understand this turning business, shaking is all about the size and balance of the piece and the mass of the machine. Casters wouldn't decrease the mass at all, it would just make it possible to move the lathe around when I'm using other equipment. (I do more than turn.) And obviously I could lock them as needed.

Anybody have any experience with this? And... do the larger lathes (Nova, Powermatic, etc.) stands even have holes in the bottom of the legs?

Thanks!


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

It depends on the lathe.

The local Woodcraft store has a demo NOVA DVR XP 2024 with locking casters, so this stand can take casters.

I expect most lathes with a stand have a provision for feet, so likely can have locking casters.

Just be aware that casters may add several inches of height and so a platform may be needed to get the desired comfortable spindle height.

I have the NOVA DVR XP 1624 which does not come with a stand. I was happy to make my own. I added adjustable feet and locking casters. I normally raise the front two feet so that the front casters are not engaged.

I do not experience vibration with spindle work, but a recent 10in platter ended up being mounted off balance and caused a lot of vibration until I got this running true.

If you are going to rely on locking casters alone, I would get the style which locks the swivel as well as the wheel.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

If you are turning something larger (more mass and extended further away from the center) then it will move substantially than on a lathe with a 10" swing. You might want to put straight casters under the headstock end and double lock swivel under the tail stock end to help with stability.


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## Art Smith (Oct 16, 2012)

Here is an option for the Powermatic

Lift Lock and Roll Lathe Mobility System


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It sounds like you make small turnings. If you ever turned a oak table leg I think you would reconsider the casters. I have a very heavy antique lathe that walks around a bit turning table legs. Anyway if the casters are not causing you any problems keep using them. If it becomes a problem take them off.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

What I would be concerned about with a larger lathe and casters is the amount of "shake" induced by the casters themselves because of the moving parts. The local club has a Powermatic and someone devised removable casters than one person can use with little effort and move the lathe by themselves.
A little like the one Art shows in that it relys on leverage.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> I have a very heavy antique lathe that walks around a bit turning table legs.


Wow, Steve posted pictures of his lathe recently. "Very heavy" is an understatement. I hate to imagine seeing this walk around from an out of balance table leg. That is a LOT of energy.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I had to google it. Here is a link. Costs more than twice as much as my lathe did!
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/5/-/25/110/-/4697/Lift-Lock-and-Roll-Lathe-Mobility-System

Wonder if there is a DYI version (for non-welders).


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

I've used a mobile base (HTC brand, I think) under a Harbor Freight 12/33 lathe for a while. It most definitely introduces a little instability compared with having the feet flat on the ground -- despite the fact that the casters at one end aren't even touching the floor when it's in the stationary position. The two uni-direction casters at the other end are fixed.

The same is true of my bandsaw, which is on a similar mobile base (2 straight casters fixed, 2 spinning casters that lower and raise.)

For my Nova 1624, I opted to get THESE Rockler workbench casters, which I only kick down when I want to move the lathe. Since the legs of the Nova stand are angled (in 2 directions!) I had to make wedges to re-verticalize the casters (I spent longer to try figuring out the angle than my eventual method, which was simply eyeball it and cut the pieces to fit.)


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I actually have been thinking about this style, since I will need to move my lathe once in a while.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2383&rrt=1


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Shop Dad said:


> I actually have been thinking about this style, since I will need to move my lathe once in a while.
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2383&rrt=1


Notice that - when parked - neither end of the lathe legs are actually in contact with the ground, and one end is still on casters.

I don't see how that is mechanically any different from the HTC mobile base that I've got on my bandsaw and old lathe.

I suggest you find somebody (or a store) who has a heavy tool on one of these bases. Give it a shake. Then try the same thing on a tool that is on the ground.

edit ... the HTB base I use on my old lathe is THIS ONE


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> I actually have been thinking about this style, since I will need to move my lathe once in a while.
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2383&rrt=1


I have this style sold under Delta badge a number of years ago. It is under my 6in jointer. I think it should work for your lathe.

Individual locking casters are perhaps less money, but will raise the height of the lathe.

Two fixed casters on one end. The other end has the swivel caster which you engage with a pedal. It will lift the tool sufficient for moving on a flat concrete surface.

I did not like seeing flexing of the 1 1/2in x 1 1/2in wood section to which the pedal/swivel is attached, so I doubled up this section.

If I did use this style again, I would make ship lap joints on the pieces to help reinforce the angle brackets. I can see them flex a bit. I know the steel is not likely to break, but the engineer in my does not like this. I rarely move the jointer these days, or I would have put in the effort to rebuild the wooden pieces.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

duncsuss said:


> I don't see how that is mechanically any different from the HTC mobile base that I've got on my bandsaw and old lathe.
> 
> edit ... the HTB base I use on my old lathe is THIS ONE


I have a similar style under my bandsaw, I think also HTB badge.

The mechanical difference is two pedals vs one.

I had to bolt the bandsaw base to the HTC base at the pedal end since flipping one pedal first tilts the bandsaw and I did not want it popping out of the base, or worse tipping over.

I am happy that I do not need to move the bandsaw often or I may have looked for a different design.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Dave Paine said:


> The mechanical difference is two pedals vs one.


I didn't mean "mechanical difference when operating the lift", I meant "mechanical difference in the static configuration" -- that is, one end of the base is supported by a pair of wheels.

Which by definition means "supported by the axle bolts" of those two wheels.

Play in those bolts = play in the base = chance of vibration.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

I will try to explain what the club did. This allows all four feet to be on the floor so that the lathe can be balanced compared to leaving it sitting on casters.
Image two of these. <$20 each. They go to the inside of the lathe lengthwise. They are removed while turning.
http://www.harborfreight.com/movers-dolly-93888.html
On the end that you slide under the cross bracket on the lathe you may need to add more 2X4 until the feet will be about ½” off the floor.
Slide the one end under the brace from the inside and step on the other end. 
When you slide it under the leg brace it will be angled up. Since the fulcrum is so far away even Barney Fife would have no problem lifting one end of a 600 pound lathe. Have a section of 2X4(s) cut to fit upright between the open end of the dolly and the bed of the lathe. The weight of the lathe will keep the 2X4 from slipping.
Now do the same at the other end. Only takes a couple of minutes.
Move where you want, step on the free end(s) to remove pressure and remove the 2X's to lower it. It is now on the lathe feet.
When not in use the lathe can stay on the dolly.
The club used this method to move a Powermatic from the stage to a hydraulic cart in the storage area (about three feet below stage level).


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

The Lift Lock and Roll is ideal and I've thought about how to do a DYI version but haven't gotten to anything yet. I agree having the lathe feet on the ground is best if possible. Here is one idea:
http://blip.tv/popular-woodworking-videos/mobile-workbench-3818242


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

Thats the same thing I did with my table saw about 20 years ago. But...my table saw is not that heavy so it is not a problem to pickup one end at a time. 
Would work for a mini lathe. Lift, pull on the cord to pull them under. Lift, give 'em a kick to set it back down.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

You may also want to take a look at this. Not casters but leveling.
I first saw this on Lyles’ full video years ago. In the video the procedure was…..
Mount a blank intentionally out of balance and turn the lathe on. Not so out of balance that it is dangerous of course.
By default either the FL and RR will be like a fulcrum on a seesaw (or vise versa the FR & LR)
Adjust one front foot up or down as needed. You will see and hear the vibration lessen (you make the adjustment with the lathe running). Of course it you adjust too far then the opposite diagonal legs now become the fulcrum.
I did this with my Nova 1624 and it reduced vibration/shake by about 66%; I still haven’t added any ballast.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Thanks for posting the vid. I just installed a new switch dang it.


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## Art Smith (Oct 16, 2012)

Theres no way I can pick up one end of my 3520B:no:


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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

I made a heavy table for my HF lathe. I wanted to be able to move it, so I put two wheels on one side of the table. I'll put a picture below to show how I did it. In use, the wheels don't touch the ground, and the table doesn't move. To move it, I lean it backwards and roll it to where I want it. Only problem is, the thing is so heavy that I have to wait until my son drops by to move it.I'm thinking handles might help.

In the picture, taken before I installed the lathe and the grinder, you can see the far wheel situated on the pedestal. It is not touching the ground, but only needs to be leaned a little to allow it to roll.


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## jarvis89 (Mar 11, 2013)

*wheels*

On my monster lathe which weighs a ton I use 1" acme thead attached to the plate in top of the caster, Then I use my electric impact to raise and lower the wheels. 
ED


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