# X Legged Bench



## TacticBlue (Jun 19, 2012)

Hello:

I am looking to build a bench with a "X" style legs. I am going for a rustic look and plan to use 2x4 cedar for most of the bench. 

In order to mate the crossed 2x4s for the legs I need to cut a "channel" that is 1/2 the thickness of each in the center, so that they will fit together flush, but I'm looking for suggestions on how to do this. I am considering simply building a jig and ruotering out the portion that I need to remove. Is there a better or more accurate was to accomplish the same thing? 

Thanks, 

Joe


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

TacticBlue said:


> Hello:
> 
> I am looking to build a bench with a "X" style legs. I am going for a rustic look and plan to use 2x4 cedar for most of the bench.
> 
> ...


I built my picnic table and benches that way. Router worked just fine. I used a good 3/4" bit and about a 1/2" depth of cut. I thought about using the table saw and dado blade but wasn't to confident about managing a piece that size on an angle. I did kerf the edges of the cut with a circ saw and just used guides to keep the router between them.:smile:


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## TacticBlue (Jun 19, 2012)

Glad to hear I wasn't too far off base! I considered just leaving them offset; however, the "right way" would be to cut the channels and have the legs flush. 

I'll try your idea of marking my outside bounderies with a circ/table saw. 

Cheers!

Joe


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

There are a few ways to do the half lap. If you have a RAS, kerfs can be cut and just chiseled out. You would make a jig to hold the piece at the correct angle. If the length is prohibitive, you could swing the arm to the appropriate angle.

Likewise, you could make a jig to hold the 2x4 and the edge would allow a pass for a handheld circular saw, by the shoe for the correct angle. This method also would be done with kerfs, and then chisel out. 

Both kerf methods could benefit from using a small block and sandpaper to flatten the bottom of the groove. 

The legs could be ganged together to allow passes for kerfing all 4 pieces.













 







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Or, make a jig for a handheld router, and make the necessary cross passes, and for incrementa depth passes.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Good advise from the other replies.

If you use a router, ensure the base of the router will span the 3.5in for the last pass. If not, add a 1/4in temporary base.

I have used hand saw and chisel, the RAS, router and table saw methods mentioned in earlier replies. They all work. The difference is what tools were available.

The hand saw and chisel method is not difficult. Two kerfs then chisel out the waster 1/4in at a time. Will go fast with cedar. You can achieve same accuracy as power tools, just need to take the time.

My first saw was RAS, so this was used the first time I wanted to use a power tool to make a half lap joint.

The next time I used the router method. At this point I preferred by hand held router to the RAS.

The most recent time I used the table saw, since by now I had one.

If I needed to make a half lap joint and the pieces would fit on my table saw, this is what I would use today. I also have a good mitre gauge which helps.


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