# Building a 16' gate & post support for 8' pannel Fence



## j_v_z (Jun 30, 2013)

Hey all, first, let me say thank you all for the help thus far with this project, it is going together quite nicely indeed! pics will follow upon completion. 


I have to build a rather large gated section however; 16' wide, & I need some help with ideas on how to support my posts so as to prevent warping/sagging. I am considering using 6x6 pressure treated (if i can find them) as posts, but i am concerned that over time, these too will bow with the weight of the gates... Is there some way you guys might recommend that I reinforce the posts (with minimal visual sacrifice from the front side)? 
Further. any suggestions as to an interesting gate design to incorporate into this fence? my panells are 8' sections. and 2 of these as gates, would not quite look right IMO, especially lacking a post between the two. 
Thank in advance, and again for all your help thus far.!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If it were me I would set a 4" or 5" round galvanized steel post with 1/4" sidewall 3' to 4' into the ground in concrete to mount the post to. The steel post could then be laminated around with some of the 5/8" cedar picket wood to look like wood. I think you would always have trouble with any wood post and would constantly have to be adjusting the gate so it would close right. 

If you do use steel be sure to paint it first and tar the inside of the post so it doesn't rust out. Even if it is galvanized it will eventually rust.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Your fence lookks very nice so far!

A 16' wide gate sounds pretty aggressive. I am not sure how something that wide will not start to bend/sag on its own, unless you plan on using turnbuckles on the inside.

I do see your concern about the two 8' gates missing a post being visually "not quite right".


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## Bill White 2 (Jun 23, 2012)

Support wheels where the gate sections meet?
Bill


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

sounds like a gate for vehicle access? i would make a man gate for man access. for large access, i would make panels/posts that slide down into pipe placed in the ground. lift out istead of swing open. as they slide down you can have brackets on the adjacent panels to accept it.


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## j_v_z (Jun 30, 2013)

wheels will not work in this location due to grade issues. Vehicle access is the intended use, yes. I'm not sure how slide in/out panels would work on a 6' high fence as there will generally only be one person, it doesnt seem practical to me unless im perhaps missing something.


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## Deanr (Jul 29, 2011)

Have you considered a 16' long rolling gate that rolls along side your existing fence when opened. This is made of metal and you would attach your wood sections to it. 
It may not be the most appealing at first but will probably still look the same in 5 years. Swinging 8' wood sections attached to 6x6 will not look as good in 5 years. I would guess that a bigger problem than the 6x6 deforming will be in the middle where they meet. The sections will twist.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*me either ...*



sanchez said:


> Your fence lookks very nice so far!
> 
> A 16' wide gate sounds pretty aggressive. I am not sure how something that wide will not start to bend/sag on its own, unless you plan on using turnbuckles on the inside.
> 
> I do see your concern about the two 8' gates missing a post being visually "not quite right".


My experience with even 10 ft gates is that the post will lean because of the weight of the gate. Your double board on board fences/gates will be heavy. As suggested a roller wheel would support the weight OR split the gate in the center making two 8 ft gates . That's what I did for a 12 footer. Even those are heavy and I usd 6 X 8 ft landscape timbers. The other issue you will have is the gate will sag of it's own weight since all the pickets are parallel and there is no diagonal, but I understand that it won't look right.

You will need to make each attachment of the pickets a secure joint with at least 3 fastners per joint. The fastners will squeeze the wood together adding some shear resistance but most will be taken up by the fasteners themselves. Make a sample out of 1 x 4 in an L shape and then apply pressure to the leg trying to twist the joint..... it will eventually either break the wood or the screws will shear off. Don't use drywall screws, use coated deck screws, square heads or torx.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=heavy+duty+gate+hinges

I wouldn't worry too much about the post bending if the ewieght is not always hanging from the hinges. I would not use a pin type hinge rather a farm gate hinge or a heavy duty strap hinge where pin is lagged into the post. I speak from experience here.

http://www.snugcottagehardware.com/Snug%20Product%20Pages/Heavy%20Duty%20Hardware/Heavy%20Duty%20Hinges%20Index.html


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## j_v_z (Jun 30, 2013)

I'm thinking about making a removable & detachable center post as the gate will not be used frequently, but, must be built incase we need to come and go, and or move anything large. 

I drew a pic which illustrates my idea, and also present questions I have pertaining to the assembly & materials/hinges recommended (ps: thanks for the hinge links woodthings! which would you use in this application?). also, please advise on cross member supports as surely i will need more than just the 2 2x4's

thanks again for all the great ideas guys!

-Justin

ps: if you have reading the writing, save the pic and then zoom in! thanks!


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