# What paint do you use?



## Kali2024 (May 10, 2011)

Hi all..I would like to create some built ins, but not sure what kind of paint to use. I want to avoid the tackiness that some experience even a year after painting.

I don't want it to yellow either. I would like to paint them in either a semi-gloss or high gloss white paint. Any tips? What about the type of primer?


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Kali2024 said:


> Hi all..I would like to create some built ins, but not sure what kind of paint to use. I want to avoid the tackiness that some experience even a year after painting.
> 
> I don't want it to yellow either. I would like to paint them in either a semi-gloss or high gloss white paint. Any tips? What about the type of primer?


Hi - What are you building them out of? I've been face lifting a kitchen. Made new face frames from #2 pine and sanded the solid pine doors. Because it was pine and I wanted to avoid any sap bleeding through, I primed with Zinsser BIN and top coated with Krylon latex gloss enamel. So far so good. The BIN can be top coated in 45 min to an hour and the Krylon can be handled in 2 hours. 
I don't understand tacky after a year. Sounds like someone painted something over something they shouldn't have. Sounds like a trick an oil based product would do. 
:smile:


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## Kali2024 (May 10, 2011)

Implanning on using birch plywood ( not sure about the trim yet) since theyre going to be painted. I've read somewhere that latex paint has a tackiness to it even after several months and that oil seems to yellow with exposure to sun. Thanks for replying.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Kali2024 said:


> Implanning on using birch plywood ( not sure about the trim yet) since theyre going to be painted. I've read somewhere that latex paint has a tackiness to it even after several months and that oil seems to yellow with exposure to sun. Thanks for replying.


Hi - I haven't experienced a tackyness problem with latex paints. Make sure to pay attention to the information on the can concerning temperature/humidity requirements, they are usually pretty broad. Especially pay attention to recoat times. I've had problems where I recoated to soon and the entire coat hadn't cured enough. Krylon (available at WalMart as well as other places) also has primer formulated for their paints which is substantially cheaper than BIN. Incidentally, BIN is alcohol based, pigmented shellac. Cleans up with denatured alcohol (VERY flammable), dried BIN cleans up with ammonia. 
Oil bases will yellow over time. Especially noticeable on glossy light colors.


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

Behr ultra premium. It's worth the $$$.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Corbin3388 said:


> Behr ultra premium. It's worth the $$$.


Exterior house paint for cabinets:huh:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I use Coronada Corolite Semi-Gloss. It is a polyurethane, alkyd enamel. I use this on all woodwork. Cabinets, crown, base and just a few days ago on a french door. Inside and outside on the door. First time to use on an outside surface. 

This paint wears and cleans well. I have seen no indication of yellowing.

It does take overnight to dry. After 24 hours there is no indication of being tacky.

George


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

Behr ultra premium means it has primer in it. Mostly used for kitchens and bathrooms.


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## verdesardog (Apr 2, 2011)

Yes gloss or semi gloss latex will remain tacky for years, I have had great success using it and top coating with water based water clear polyurethane. Make sure to get water clear poly or it will yellow.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Corbin3388 said:


> Behr ultra premium means it has primer in it. Mostly used for kitchens and bathrooms.


My mistake, I painted my house last summer with Premium Plus Ultra. I didn't realize they had Interior *and *exterior paints under that banner.


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## sully9er (May 11, 2011)

Corbin3388 said:


> Behr ultra premium means it has primer in it. Mostly used for kitchens and bathrooms.


Behr Premium Plus Ultra dose have a built in primer. It's primer capabilities is not on par with priming then painting. If you are looking for something fast and quick, than this will work. If you are looking for longevity, you will need a primer.




jschaben said:


> Hi - I haven't experienced a tackyness problem with latex paints. Make sure to pay attention to the information on the can concerning temperature/humidity requirements, they are usually pretty broad. Especially pay attention to recoat times. I've had problems where I recoated to soon and the entire coat hadn't cured enough. Krylon (available at WalMart as well as other places) also has primer formulated for their paints which is substantially cheaper than BIN. Incidentally, BIN is alcohol based, pigmented shellac. Cleans up with denatured alcohol (VERY flammable), dried BIN cleans up with ammonia.
> Oil bases will yellow over time. Especially noticeable on glossy light colors.


 BIN is a great primer for drywall and wood work. The only problem is the adhesion on it is nothing like zinnser cover stain. BIN is mainly for stainblocking and useful as a vaporbarrier. Go with Zinnser Cover Stain, its oil base and has great adhesion.




verdesardog said:


> Yes gloss or semi gloss latex will remain tacky for years, I have had great success using it and top coating with water based water clear polyurethane. Make sure to get water clear poly or it will yellow.


This is true. A *water based* poly is what you would want to put over it for added protection. Oil will only not adhere to the latex paint, it will yellow.



For top coat of paint, I will give you recommendations:

Sherwin-Williams:
ProClassic
SoloGloss

Benjamin Moore:
Aurua
Regal

PPG:
Manor Hall

Big Box Stores:
Behr PPU Semi-Gloss
Valspar Ultra Premium Semi-Gloss(Floetrol'd)

All different types of paint and price ranges. I wouldn't do anything cheaper than the high end box store paint if you want results that last.


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## ~WoodChuck~ (Jan 17, 2009)

after reading some of these posts I am a bit confused. The answer is simple.

USE ENAMEL PAINT. Thats is. Enamel paint is designed for a hard finish. Use this on interior woodwork. Sherwin Williams makes a waterbourne enamel, Impervo. It works just as well as alkyd enamels. Most latex paint is good for interior walls and exterior applications due to its flexibility. Use any enamel paint and trust me, you will be satisfied.


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## eccentrictinkerer (Feb 18, 2009)

~WoodChuck~ said:


> after reading some of these posts I am a bit confused. The answer is simple.
> 
> USE ENAMEL PAINT. Thats is. Enamel paint is designed for a hard finish. Use this on interior woodwork. Sherwin Williams makes a waterbourne enamel, Impervo. It works just as well as alkyd enamels. Most latex paint is good for interior walls and exterior applications due to its flexibility. Use any enamel paint and trust me, you will be satisfied.


 
+1 on Impervo (I'm pretty sure it's by Benjamin Moore).

Best paint I've ever used. 

Primer and two coats (Floetrol added) rolled on and backbrushed on 37 cupboard doors and drawers.

My wife loves the fact there's not a single fingernail scratch or abrasion anywhere. And they're really easy to clean.

I've had contractor friends ask me what kind of sprayer I used!


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## ~WoodChuck~ (Jan 17, 2009)

yes, My mistake. It is Benjamin Moore. Good stuff


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## Spike2101 (May 3, 2011)

I also strongly recommend Benjamin Moore paints. We use them a lot on trim & custom carpentry. If you have going to spray... apply Aura. Aura is some of the best paint I have ever used (pricey though). If you are going to brush/roll...use also a Benjamin Moore paint called Advance. It is made especially for trim and it levels extremely well. If you sand in-between coats it can be hard to distinguish from spraying.

Both are also quite resilient against yellowing.


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## craftsman jay (Jun 26, 2010)

Corbin3388 said:


> Behr ultra premium means it has primer in it. Mostly used for kitchens and bathrooms.


I wouldn't use any Behr paint, especially their hybrid primer/paint. I've seen adhesion issues with their paint. 

I'll use oil cover stain primer most of the time for most applications. Then top-coat with Satin-Impervo or similar paint(it gives a fairly hard finish and just under a semi-gloss). Prime and 1st coat the first day, 2nd coat later the next day after a quick 220 sanding.


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## QuinnHazel (May 25, 2011)

Wooden furniture is a great way to spruce up and add to the identity of the home. However, as time goes by, the furniture loses its sheen and polish, and there are many amongst us who will discard good quality furniture because they do not know that it is actually very simple to add some new life to their old furniture with a simple coat of paint. Painting wooden furniture is quite simple, and it is actually a pretty happening DIY project if you have a weekend to yourself with your family.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I just picked up a couple of cans of Pro Coat for a kitchen cabinet update I'm doing. Initial impression isn't all that great. Good paint but 4X the dollars of the Walmart Krylon. Nether application nor coverage seemed that much better. Still got a lot more to do so maybe it will get better.


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