# Walnut Buffet



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

This is the buffet I am just getting started on. Part of my total dining set. I tell you what, I love Google Sketchup. If you don't use this program you should try it. It takes awhile for the learning curve but it is very intuitive and powerful. It's also free. Or you can pay for it if you want.

I'll probably refine the design as I progress as I usually do. I'll try to document the process, but I always say that and then get carried away in the work and forget about the photos. I'll try harder this time!

Bret


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*looks like another winner*

I think you've come up with your very own style Bret. You may become famous someday. :laughing: or write a book? It will be nice to see a photo of the whole room full of your furniture, so don't forget the photos! :thumbsup: bill


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

I need some drawer space in this thing. I'm considering taking the two middle doors out and putting some drawers there instead. Or maybe leave the doors and put in roll out shelving. 

I've got a full sized layout done in the shop. I have made it a little wider. My wife doesn't like the diamonds in the door panels. I like them but in order to have peace I may just have to use the diamond idea on some other project.

Bret


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Lola Ranch said:


> I need some drawer space in this thing. I'm considering taking the two middle doors out and putting some drawers there instead. Or maybe leave the doors and put in roll out shelving.
> 
> I've got a full sized layout done in the shop. I have made it a little wider. My wife doesn't like the diamonds in the door panels. I like them but in order to have peace I may just have to use the diamond idea on some other project.
> 
> Bret


Bret,

first of all, I love your work. The curves that you come up with are incredible, and your work is inspiring. 

The first thought that came to my mind when you said you needed drawers, was for you to somehow incorporate them in the curved top portion above the doors. I don't know if that would be feasible, but I know that if anyone COULD do it, it would be you. The only thing that I don't know how to handle is how you would open those drawers... a knob/handle would probably stick out too far.... maybe a magnetic spring loaded catch?

Just a thought.....

BTW, I am really hoping you do this as a build thread. I would like to see how you do some of your curved work.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Great design! :thumbsup:

FWIW... I like the diamonds. :smile:


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Fabian said "_The first thought that came to my mind when you said you needed drawers, was for you to somehow incorporate them in the curved top portion above the doors." 
_
Thanks and Yes, I have planned to make the rounded top band drawers as I have on my other similar pieces. What I meant was I need "more" drawers in the lower part of the cabinet

Bret


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## Ostie (Dec 19, 2010)

Bret,
As many others have stated, I love your work and look forward to seeing this project progress. It would be great if you could do a "how-to" on this one. As far as drawers go, if you're not wanting to alter the current image, maybe you could make the bottom skirt part a drawer. It could be a wide drawer that is kind of hidden. Just a thought.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Ostie said:


> Bret,
> As many others have stated, I love your work and look forward to seeing this project progress. It would be great if you could do a "how-to" on this one. As far as drawers go, if you're not wanting to alter the current image, maybe you could make the bottom skirt part a drawer. It could be a wide drawer that is kind of hidden. Just a thought.


Good idea, unfortunately I think I need that arched bottom skirt for support to the middle of the cabinet. I wouldn't want is to sag. I need the drawers mainly for table linens, I'm just going to put in slide out shelves behind the doors.

Bret


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

*Building a Walnut Buffet Cabinet*

Part One.

Now that I've worked out a design using the Sketchup program I will do a full size layout on some cheap 3/16" import birch plywood. I'll do a front and end view. Often I'll just do a story stick or layout stick which gives me all the lineal measurements. For this project, with all the curves, I've chosen to do a full layout to provide more help on proportion and balance.









I am going to build the carcass as a frame with the curved legs on the four corners and the rails interlocking into them. The end layout is shown in the photo which will have a fixed panel (built much like a cabinet door) set into the frame. 










The first parts I need are corner legs. The front two are 2-1/2" square and the back legs are 2" x 2-1/2" with a net 35-1/4" length. The thickest wood I have is net 1-3/4" so I'll have to do a glue up. I'll glue up two blanks, one 5-1/4" x 2-5/8" and the other 5-1/4" x 2-1/8" and both about 37" long. Once the glue has cured enough I will re-saw the two blanks into the four rough legs. Then I two flat faces, perpendicular to each other on each leg using my long bed jointer. I then run them down to the finished size using the thickness planer. Before I cut the curves on the tapered then flared legs, I wanted to cut the notches at the top of each leg where I will extend the leg up behind the rounded front drawer band which I will miter and and cut in decorative and functional corner spline, around these leg extensions.









I cut the first part of the notches using a little utility sled and the table saw and then used the band saw for the long side.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

*Walnut Buffet Build Part Two*

Once I have the notches made to create the upper leg extensions I need to cut the curved faces on the legs. Side note: a few years back I made a set of radius curves out of 1/4" plywood starting with 4" and going through 60". I do a lot of curved stuff so these cutouts have proved incredibly useful. 








The arc on these legs has a radius larger than what my set include so I grabbed a thin stick and measured from one end 92" and drove a small lath nail through the mark and into the top of my work table, lined up the end or the stick with the start and stop points of the arc and then scribed a line with a pencil and then cut to the line using the band saw.

















Using my layout, I marked on the legs where I needed to make my sliding dovetail motises as well as some slots for fitting the panels into the frame of the legs.

I have a router table as well as another router mounted under the right wing of my table saw. The one in the table saw allows me to use the saw fence for quick set ups. This is what I used to make the dovetail slots and after changing to a straight bit I cut in the blind mortises for the arched apron and finally switched to a 3/8" stacked dado to make the long ploughs where the end panels will be fit.

I laced the legs together temporarily on the assembly bench to figure out the remaining machining I have to do on the legs. I'll do that and cut all the rails and aprons, blind tenons and dovetails tomorrow. I will aslo take some photos of the router procedure.

Until then, Bret


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## ModCo Design (Oct 17, 2011)

I love watching the progression of your projects, I've been stalking you on the forum, hope you don't mind


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

*Walnut Buffet Part 3*

I started cutting and milling the material for the rails and apron. I use my little Crapsman shaper to put a bullnose on the front edges of the rails.









I got all the sliding dovetail ways cut into the legs using the router mounted under my table saw. Once I started mitering and notching the rails to fit around the legs, I realized that the only way I was going to be able to cut the dovetails mortises on the end of the rails was by hand.









It wasn't too hard to do and the first corner fit pretty well. It's a combination sliding dovetail, splined miter tied into the leg. I will have to cut the spline in later after I glue it up. If I do it by hand then I can make it a thin dovetail.

That's all for now, Bret


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

That's looking pretty awesome Bret. That's some pretty fancy joinery you've got going on to. 
I'm always intrigued by your work, and style. 
You've got my attention.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Beautiful design, and it's great to see the joinery you are using to put this thing together. Thanks for taking time to share. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build.


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## MSketcher (Dec 11, 2011)

Lola Ranch said:


> This is the buffet I am just getting started on. Part of my total dining set. I tell you what, I love Google Sketchup. If you don't use this program you should try it. It takes awhile for the learning curve but it is very intuitive and powerful. It's also free. Or you can pay for it if you want.
> 
> I'll probably refine the design as I progress as I usually do. I'll try to document the process, but I always say that and then get carried away in the work and forget about the photos. I'll try harder this time!
> 
> Bret


Beautiful work. It's really cool to see the whole process step by step. I've personally never been set up to do woodworking like that, my experience is mostly carpentry. Do you do most of your design work in Sketchup, or do you use any other program like AutoCAD?


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

I've been anticipating this build since I saw your sketchup idea posted recently. Really looking forward to see your handiwork "in progress". I'm sure I'll learn a lot.


Thanks for sharing this.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I like the design. I've tried gettin' into Sketchup, and get frustrated. My hands and fingers don't work so good anymore. The cursor at times can be a bit much.

I like the drawer idea. You may get away with no handles showing by using the drawer touch latch like this.










 







.


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Wonderful design (as usual) and fine joinery. I look forward to the progress of this.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

I haven't worked on the buffet for more than a week. I'll start posting photos again once I get back to it.

Bret


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Still waiting Bret. Your doing a great job on it. Love the fine joinery.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Looking good Bret. I love that dovetailed/mitered corner joint. I would have never thought of doing something like that, and that is the reason I will be following the thread with great interest. I probably won't comment too much, but will be watching intently. Thanks for taking the time to try to remember to take pics as you go along.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

*Where was I?*

Finally I have been able to work on the buffet a little bit.

First photo. Cutting the male end of the sliding dovetails using an over-the-fence sled.









Starting the assembly. I use lots of cauls to protect the wood when clamping. When I get glue on the wood I try to circle it with a soft pencil so I can sand it out later.









The two front legs, lower rail and curved skirt or apron, valence?









With the a rear leg secured in my shop-made pipe clamp vise I am smoothing out the curved face that I cut on the bandsaw with a spokeshave and a sanding block. If I pull the spokeshave slowly I avoid chatter and it really smoothes out the curve nicely.









The skeleton of the buffet is starting to take shape. My shoot-from-the-hip design would drive some people crazy. Just the end and front layout then ad-lib. Kind of like working without a safety net. I just visualise all the parts and pieces in my mind and start cutting. No list, no plans. If I was building a set of kitchen cabinets or something, I would make and use a cutting list.

Bret


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Yay! Bret's back at it!

Looking sweet. Fascinating to watch you work. Love the idea that you can "wing-it", although you are obviously quite capable for it. The experience shows.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I love your build threads. Let me just get that out there right now.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

A design detour, maybe.

When I said I was retired and now I build what I want the way I want, well......that's not exactly true. When building something for my own home I must do as SWMBO tells me. And she doesn't like the diamonds in the door panels. She would like a more contemporary look.

Well, I had some book-matched panels I had made up earlier and was saving for a project which might work on this one.









Lets back up a bit to the frame which has turned out incredibly sturdy. All those interlocking sliding dovetails and tenons combined to make a very rigid construction. 











So then I made a sample end panel. Kind of like a reverse floating panel, instead of the panel being recessed into the frame, the frame is recessed into the panel. Don't worry, the panel with the big knothole is just a temporary sample. The panels will have some very cool grain patterns

















I think these panels will look very nice with the book-matched and the figured grain and provides for a more contemporary design. It's a compromise. and makes both me and SWMBO happy.

Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to build the doors.

Bret


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Yeah, that's a very creative compromise. And I like it a lot. 

I wasn't a huge fan of the diamonds anyways, but I'm not a huge fan of contemporary stuff either. Classic bookmatched panels will look great on just about anything, if applied nicely.

-Just an opinion.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

You really make quality and craftsmanship look easy. It's not, but you make it look easy.:thumbsup:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> I think you've come up with your very own style Bret. You may become famous someday. :laughing: or write a book? It will be nice to see a photo of the whole room full of your furniture, so don't forget the photos! :thumbsup: bill


I would leave the doors and put pullouts/drawers behind them.

A most interesting design.

George


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Had to google SWMBO.... Love it! :laughing:

Looking great, Bret. Thanks for including us on your deliberations as well.


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## sanguo (Mar 12, 2011)

"Using my layout, I marked on the legs where I needed to make my sliding dovetail motises as well as some slots for fitting the panels into the frame of the legs."

Could you please let me know how you make those slots? using router? if it is router on router table, what router bit you used?


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

I made some changes to my Sketchup drawing to reflect my current plan. The end panels will be solid book-matched panel reversed. I also have enough of these b-m panels to do the two door and the top. On the top I will use two crotch grained panels. The drawer fronts will all be curve inward and separated by styles and rails. The design is now simpler and more contemporary so SWMBO will be happy. The emphasis is now on the wood itself, which it think should be striking.









I got the two end panels installed today. Each end has a cathedral arch like this. I made the little inset frame the hols the panel out of maple which I'm hoping will set the panels off nicely when the finish is applied.









The question was asked "how I cut the various dovetailed channels and mortises and ploughs". The answer is "in various ways". 









This photo shows cutting one of the sliding dovetails ways which all run perpendicular through the legs. I am using the router mounted to the right side cast iron wing of my table saw. I've clamped the leg to a square piece of scrap plywood so that I have a large edge to run against the saw fence and in this case I'm backing the workpiece into the cutter. I have to cut half the slots backing in and half going forward because the legs are curved on two sides and flat on the other.









This photo shows the straight ploughs in the legs and the rail frames. I used a 3/8" stacked dado to plough the legs. I mark the fence with a sharpie at the entry and exit points and drop in and then lift out. WARNING! don't try this without first receiving expert instruction first. Dropping a workpiece into a spinning dado head can result in the instant removal of your fingers if you don't know what you are doing. The dado cut results in the smoothest edges of the cut but you then have a sloped entry and exit to deal with by either chiseling the plough or shaping the tenon. 

I also cut some of the shorter ploughs with a straight cutter in the table saw mounted router, again using the marks on the fence for starting and stopping. This requires a very firm grip and consistant feed rate to keep the bit from chattering or catching or just snapping off but produces a very clean cut if done properly.

Then in the photo, you can see that there is a rough edged plough on the back of the rail frame which I cut using the shaper and power feed. I'll sand the rough edge but this cut does not show. I used the shaper for consistancy, saftey and speed. I could have produced a smoother cut by klimb cutting or reverse feeding into the cutterhead.

I hope I answered your questions. Let me know if you need more info.

Bret, Oh, thank you for all the nice comments.


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## chrisgerman1983 (Jan 17, 2009)

Looks awesome! I cant wait to see the whole set together


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## uphillblowfish (May 2, 2012)

What program did u use to make the one pic send me a message if u want to tell me


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

uphillblowfish said:


> What program did u use to make the one pic send me a message if u want to tell me


If understand your mutilation of the English language correctly then the answer is "Google Sketchup".

I mutilate it too, even when trying to use it properly. :laughing:

Bret


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

A good day in the shop. I got the top all fabricated and installed with the two big reversed flange floating panels that match the sides. I cut all the pieces for the top on the table saw. I then put on a 5/16" dado and cut all the slots in the edges of the top frame and also in the edges of the panels with the aid of a feather board to keep everything snug against the fence. I can't wait to get the finish on this, I think it will look great.









Next it was the curved drawer fronts and decorative horizontal band. I sequence cut this piece from right to left but didn't have a long enough board to wrap around the left end. I cut a little sample profile and used it to set the table saw for making a series of angled cuts to create the curved front and finished it with a few quick strokes with some hand planes.


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Love it!


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## uphillblowfish (May 2, 2012)

Lola Ranch said:


> If understand your mutilation of the English language correctly then the answer is "Google Sketchup".
> 
> I mutilate it too, even when trying to use it properly. :laughing:
> 
> Bret


Thank u


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Bret, 

This is coming along Great!!! I love the top! I can't wait to see the finish on it as well... What do you use? 

I was wondering though.... I have always wondered if you I should put a coat of finish on any panels before the piece is put together, because of the expansion and contraction of the wood, won't there be a possibility of unfinished gaps? I have yet to make a piece of fine furniture like you do all the time, and am trying to learn from your experience.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

thegrgyle said:


> Bret,
> 
> 
> I was wondering though.... I have always wondered if you I should put a coat of finish on any panels before the piece is put together, because of the expansion and contraction of the wood, won't there be a possibility of unfinished gaps? I have yet to make a piece of fine furniture like you do all the time, and am trying to learn from your experience.


That's a good question. Most typically, panels have a tendency to shrink once they reach equilibrium in an indoor environment unless they are going into a boat or some other humid situation. I expect the panels in my buffet to shrink as much as a 1/4" in width, and it will only show at the bottom of the groove. I can touch up the finish if need be.

Bret


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## Ell (Dec 4, 2011)

Looks amazing! Keep up the good work, and the pictures


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Amazing work !!!!*

WOW. Amazing work. :thumbsup:


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Here are the latest pics from today.

All the framework is complete. Now I can start building the drawers.

Bret


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## dm112375 (May 14, 2012)

Man, You sure are talented. Takes a special person to work wood, but an artist to make works of art like this.


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Lola Ranch said:


> ...Now I can start building the drawers.
> 
> Bret


Yay! Dovetails!


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

I've gotten started on the drawers now. By using maple on the drawer sides, I've got a nice contrast for showing off the hand dovetails. 

I use a sliding sled on the band saw to assist cutting the tails and then chop out the waste. The receiving half of the joint on the drawer fronts are worked mostly with hand tools but also using the drill press with a 3/16" Fortsner bit to establish the back edge which I work to.

There are no drawer guides. The flush sides of the drawers will slide against the hardwood frames. I like to make the furniture drawers this way. The feel of a well fitted drawer sliding on waxed wood along with the cushion of air it creates while being pushed closed is not something you get with a store bought roller guide. But, obviously, this requires a precise fit. I just start with the drawer a little too big and carefully remove the parts that rub with hand planes until it slides smoothly. But I have to wait until the piece is completely finished before applying the wax to the parts that slide on one another. Otherwise the wax may give me problems with the finish.

As you can see, my tools are fairly simple, some old some new. Notice the little dovetails marking tool I made from black locust. I made a couple of these with different angles. 

Bret


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

Nice work Bret.:thumbsup:

What do you use and how do you do your drawer bottoms?


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

WillemJM said:


> Nice work Bret.:thumbsup:
> 
> What do you use and how do you do your drawer bottoms?


1/4" birch plywood, set into a 1/4" deep dado on the sides and front. I then screw it from the bottom into the back. I think this is superior to the old fashioned solid wood drawer bottoms which often warped and split.

Bret


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

Lola Ranch said:


> 1/4" birch plywood, set into a 1/4" deep dado on the sides and front. I then screw it from the bottom into the back. I think this is superior to the old fashioned solid wood drawer bottoms which often warped and split.
> 
> Bret


Thx Bret.

I do much the same, but the dado is in all four drawer sides, so there is no glue or screws. Disadvantage of my way is the ply sits up in the drawer, so it is not part of the sliding air cushioning effect.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

WillemJM said:


> Thx Bret.
> 
> I do much the same, but the dado is in all four drawer sides, so there is no glue or screws. Disadvantage of my way is the ply sits up in the drawer, so it is not part of the sliding air cushioning effect.


This allows me to get the drawer nice and square before I screw the bottom in place.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Another outstanding piece, Bret. Thanks for sharing with us mere mortals.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

It is amazing some the simple jigs you have that make all the tedious work that much easier. I love the look of your DT's, and the simplicity of them. You are a true craftsman, and I am loving this build.

Thanks again for illustrating/documenting the process of the build.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

*curved front drawer update*

I started making the curved drawer fronts today beginning with some 5/4 rough walnut, cutting the pieces a little bit over-sized, jointing one face and edge flat and square, surface planing and then re-sawing them on the band saw. Then I surface planed the pieces to a 1/4" final thickness for a three piece laminated 3/4" thick drawer face. 

I got one front glued up and out of the clamps and then milled it to fit the opening. I really should have made the fronts with four laminations 3/16" each instead of three at 1/4" because I got a little more spring back than I wanted. I have two reasons for doing this, the main one being that I was afraid to run thinner stock through the planer because the grain in these boards changed direction like a snake. The second reason is that I didn't want to cut into any more of my dwindling supply of walnut lumber. 

I make my bending forms out of old glue lam beam cut-offs. They work great. As you can see I like to apply lots of clamping pressure uniformly. end to end. Once I make a bending form I keep it for future use. I've got a dozen or so at this point.

Photo #1: My very simple re-saw setup

Photo #2: laminations milled and ready for glue-up.

Photo #3: A good looking clamp-up.

Photo #4: fitting the first curved front drawer.

The two "round front" top drawers are all fitted and just need to be final deatailed.

I can see myself completing this project by the end of this week and then a few days next week for finishing.

Thank for looking, Bret


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Damn! You make things look so easy. Easy enough to try. That brings forth a large compliment in my book.

Thanks for this. (-Or, pretty much what Fabian said in #51)


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