# Would this be a terrible deal for $100?



## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

EDIT3: I didn't mind the possibility of putting in some elbow grease, but after looking around at reviews for this saw, seems like it might be a steaming pile. I'm just going to have to stomach dropping a grand and a half on a saw.










Possibly a Delta 36-600. Look like it has a decent fence, and a cast iron surface. Looks very similar to a lot of the older craftsman saws I've seen, lately.

How easy is it to break down these kinds of saws to fit inside a car? I have a somewhat large car. I know I should have bought a pickup by now, but I've been trying to avoid it.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

If it runs, it's worth close to $100, but not much more in that condition. It's got a universal motor with a small cogged belt. If the motor goes south, the saw is done. It's a little smaller than a standard full size saw....22" deep x 38" wide with the wings. The fence is ok. It weighs about 150#. The wings and fence should remove easily, and the main body can be removed from the leg stand. FWIW, mine did everything I asked of it for 2-1/2 years, but it's loud and a little light. A full size cast iron contractor saw with a belt drive induction motor in the same price range would have more upside potential.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You have to think about parts when buying equipment. It's difficult at best to get any parts for any Delta equipment. I would read the thread at the bottom of this section "Delta parts hard to find" before buying any Delta equipment. There was also another thread about a guy that had a Delta contractor saw that the gear to tilt the saw over to 45 degrees that was made out of plastic. Of course the threads were stripped and he could operate that function.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Yeah, once I discovered the model number, it wasn't hard to find all the negative stuff. I really did want a full-size table surface. And I did come across the fact that the lack of availability of parts makes any class of Delta not worth considering. Seems like just 10 years ago they were one of the better brands. 

While I'm saving for a Grizzly, I'll keep an eye out for something super cheap that's heavier, has a belt drive, and full-size cast iron table. I'm not holding my breath, however.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RobinDobbie said:


> Yeah, once I discovered the model number, it wasn't hard to find all the negative stuff. I really did want a full-size table surface. And I did come across the fact that the lack of availability of parts makes any class of Delta not worth considering. Seems like just 10 years ago they were one of the better brands.
> 
> While I'm saving for a Grizzly, I'll keep an eye out for something super cheap that's heavier, has a belt drive, and full-size cast iron table. I'm not holding my breath, however.


 At first I was going to suggest watching for a government auction but I see you're in my neighborhood. I never see one within reasonable distance from here. You might try traders village or Quinlan Fleamarket on the weekends. I bet you could also find a saw at the trade days in Canton. Personally I'm watching Craigslist for a jointer. If I come across a table saw I will let you know.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Thanks, Steve! Hope we both find what we're looking for! Here's a fantasy: You're out picking up the perfect jointer for $25, and the old lady selling it has a nice old yellow 5HP Powermatic for $100 and just needs to make space...


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RobinDobbie said:


> Thanks, Steve! Hope we both find what we're looking for! Here's a fantasy: You're out picking up the perfect jointer for $25, and the old lady selling it has a nice old yellow 5HP Powermatic for $100 and just needs to make space...


 I did find a powermatic table saw but it was $300, three phase and in Albany, Ga. I hope you have better luck finding a table saw. I've been looking for a jointer for about 5 years.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Yeah, also I made the mistake of looking at out of state ads. It's heartbreaking to see whats out there! 

5 years?! I'll admit, your attention span is longer than mine. I'd have to break down and pay retail long before then!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RobinDobbie said:


> Yeah, also I made the mistake of looking at out of state ads. It's heartbreaking to see whats out there!
> 
> 5 years?! I'll admit, your attention span is longer than mine. I'd have to break down and pay retail long before then!


Well I already have a craftsman 6" jointer and I need to upgrade to a 12" jointer. I might settle on a 8" if I could buy one cheap enough I could easily sell if I found a 12".

They have this craftsman table saw with extra blade and dado set listed on craigslist today for $200. http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/tls/3685016300.html


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Thanks! I did see that. I have the Android app that sends me a ding when a new result for "table saw" or "tabel saw" comes up. 

I don't know what's up with that table, is it aluminum? I think I want just a standard, smooth, cast-iron table.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RobinDobbie said:


> Thanks! I did see that. I have the Android app that sends me a ding when a new result for "table saw" or "tabel saw" comes up.
> 
> I don't know what's up with that table, is it aluminum? I think I want just a standard, smooth, cast-iron table.


 The top on that saw is aluminum. My dad had one just like that I will be picking up sometime this summer. The only thing I didn't like about the saw is the mechanism you lock the fence down with. Other than that I liked the saw very much. The aluminum top was heavy enough it didn't give me any problems. The only craftsman saw I know of with a cast iron top is the 12" saw. I bought one in 1972 and used it until I wore it out six or eight years ago. Unfortunately I replaced it with a Delta Unisaw. Live and learn.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> The top on that saw is aluminum. My dad had one just like that I will be picking up sometime this summer. The only thing I didn't like about the saw is the mechanism you lock the fence down with. Other than that I liked the saw very much. The aluminum top was heavy enough it didn't give me any problems. The only craftsman saw I know of with a cast iron top is the 12" saw. I bought one in 1972 and used it until I wore it out six or eight years ago. Unfortunately I replaced it with a Delta Unisaw. Live and learn.


That one's got an aluminum top and a direct drive universal motor. 

Steve - There are tons of full size 10" cast iron Cman saws from the beginning of time up through the current 21833. King-Seely, Emerson, TTI/Ryobi, Steel City/Orion, and Dayton are some of the manufacturers of them.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Yeah, I've seen tons of rusty topped Craftsmans. They seem alright, for the most part. But, mostly what I've seen has just been old and over-priced for what they are. If I see a cheap one I might snag it. Otherwise, I'm eyeing a Grizzly G0715P. Maybe I can figure out how to save at least _something_ off of retail. Do they ever have sales?


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Picking this up tomorrow morning:










Looks like some kind of model 113. Not sure what's up with the base, I haven't seen a many bases like that. I hope I can fit it on my car after it's disassembled! The base might stay there... But, it looks like it's got a lot of the right stuff. Cast iron top(narrow without wings, it my be) with standard miter slots, belt drive, and full depth. Owner said the belt is new, so that's good. I suppose the other major problem that could happen to it would be the motor going out. But, I imagine since it's a belt drive, replacement motors are a lot easier to come by. Hell, I might just keep a look out for a 1.5hp motor anyway, since I think this has an over-rated 1HP, from what I've read.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That one's got some potential, and has better bones. Wings and a fence could make that a pretty slick saw. 

Here are a couple of examples:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Nicely done! All it needs is a table extension and you'll be good to go.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

what's the asking price for that 113 series TS? and don't underestimate that motor. if it's an emerson electric unit, it has plenty of torque to handle almost anything you'll encounter, with the right blade.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Got it. I'll post pics in a bit. The asking price was $75, but the seller accepted $60 once I looked at it and explained the problems it has. The rust isn't deep. But, there's a bit of crinkle on the front-right-bottom corner of the saw box, and adjusting the angle of cut is a bit awkward due to some missing screws. I think I'll be able to work with these things, but I wasn't aware of these problems when I left to get the saw. I like it when whatever I'm buying is a good price, and I know about everything odd before I get there. So, I didn't feel bad about talking him down a tad.

Now, before I left on the hour journey(hour and a half on the way there with traffic, I wanted to double check the table depth. But, it was impossible to get the seller to understand when I asked him to "measure the table depth, front to back." He texted, "Do you mean the dimensions?" and I replied that I needed the length of the miter slots. He said to email him a picture of what a miter slot looked like, so I sent him this:

"I need to know the length of the red lines." 









He came back with this: 









I gave up and decided to risk it. I think it was worth it, because the table surface is indeed 20" x 27". 

I was able to disassemble the whole thing and fit it all but one panel from the base into my trunk! 

Motor is *much* quieter than the direct drive Skil I have right now. Starts very smoothly, cuts through some mystery 3/4" plywood like butter. So, I don't think I'll even have to get a blade, for now. It's carbide tipped with lots of teeth. Maybe 80?

I stopped by woodcraft on the way home and picked up a zero-clearance insert for $25, and a plastic featherboard for $12. So, things are looking good!

The only thing is, I can't decide whether I want to use oak, UHMW plastic, or those Incra sliders for my sled runners. I went with oak on my last runners, and I made sure the grain was vertical, not horizontal. But, the humidity gets so high, I did experience difficulty sliding at times. Rainy or not, I want to be able to go out and get some stuff done, whenever I want. I think I'll get the UHMW runners for now, and when that wears out, I'll get the fancy adjustable aluminum stuff.

Anyway, pics in a bit!


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

There's a loose plate dangling from the tilt screw. I think once I screw that back where it's supposed to go, lube up the screw, it might be easy to use. While I was at Woodcraft, I got the chance to play with a Laguna. Man, those hand wheels WANT to turn for ya! Very smooth adjustments. I don't think I can get the 30 year old craftsman that smooth, but I'll try.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

RobinDobbie said:


> ....I stopped by woodcraft on the way home and picked up a zero-clearance insert for $25,
> 
> if you have the OEM insert, inserts are really easy to fabricate out of almost anything flat and at least 1/4" thick. i'd put that $25 towards a good 40 tooth combination blade. the blade that's on there now looks to be almost a plywood blade. ok for sheet goods but tough sledding on hardwoods, especially rip cuts.
> 
> ...





RobinDobbie said:


> .........There's a loose plate dangling from the tilt screw. I think once I screw that back where it's supposed to go, lube up the screw, it might be easy to use.
> 
> correct a mundo! that plate is integral to th eoperation of th ebevel function as well as slightly stiffening the saw cabinet side.
> 
> ...


\

and when you're ready for that laguna, check out grizzly for saws that are almost identical for significantly less cost.

BTW, where's the splitter/blade guard? keeping one's fingers attached to one's hands makes woodworking a lot more fun.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RobinDobbie said:


> There's a loose plate dangling from the tilt screw. I think once I screw that back where it's supposed to go, lube up the screw, it might be easy to use. While I was at Woodcraft, I got the chance to play with a Laguna. Man, those hand wheels WANT to turn for ya! Very smooth adjustments. I don't think I can get the 30 year old craftsman that smooth, but I'll try.


 That yellow plug in the middle of the saw top, could you measure the diameter of it. I have a saw table with the exact-I-cut that belongs there. I'm using the saw as a router table and don't need the exact-I-cut anymore. Perhaps we can swap. Mine is 1 5/8" in diameter. At the moment I'm not sure if it's removable but I'm willing to try.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

toolguy1000 said:


> \
> 
> and when you're ready for that laguna, check out grizzly for saws that are almost identical for significantly less cost.
> 
> BTW, where's the splitter/blade guard? keeping one's fingers attached to one's hands makes woodworking a lot more fun.


I have a deep lust for a G0715P. Maybe I'll get one if I can't make this craftman sing like new. I don't see needing the blade guard with a crosscut sled.

I do have the OEM insert. It didn't occur to me that making one would be easy. But, I just looked at some youtube videos, and it looks pretty simple. I opened the package for the new insert, but I haven't cut into it, yet. I wonder if I can return it? Then again, even though I'm also going to have to return the featherboard(too small), the closest store is 50 minutes away from me. I'm going to have to think of something I can only get from woodcraft to make it worth the journey. 

Yeah, I was leaning toward the Incras, but I noticed the length of the runners is only 24 or 25.5 inches. I want my sleds to be 27-28 inches deep, so that after accounting for 3" of fence and stiffener, I can still work on 24" boards with ease. Maybe I'm missing something? I guess I could add a strip of UHMW to one end. Would it be ok to have free space on the operator side of the sled? 

About the loose plate, after a closer look at the pic I too earlier, it looks like the bearing retainer plate(what the manual calls it) is turned around and on the opposite side of the bearing that it should be on. It didn't just vibrate loose, someone took the saw apart at one point.










You're the second person I've seen refer to dry lube. I'll have to research it. Both the 113 manual and my old Skil manual talk about SAE 20 or 30 oil for maintenance lube. However, I'm all about doing it the best way. I plan on doing electrolysis on all the rusty parts and making the table top look like new. I'll have to see how easy it is to clean up drylube.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> That yellow plug in the middle of the saw top, could you measure the diameter of it. I have a saw table with the exact-I-cut that belongs there. I'm using the saw as a router table and don't need the exact-I-cut anymore. Perhaps we can swap. Mine is 1 5/8" in diameter. At the moment I'm not sure if it's removable but I'm willing to try.


I don't know exacti what the exacti cut is, but I'll go measure the yellow right now.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

1 5/8" looked a tad big. But maybe I measured small. Pretty close to 1 5/8", anyway. It was hard to see in the dark, with the cell light. If accuracy is important, I can measure in the morning. I tried to pop mine out but only one side would come loose.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That should clean up pretty nicely.....you'll be amazed at what's possible. Have fun! :thumbsup:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RobinDobbie said:


> 1 5/8" looked a tad big. But maybe I measured small. Pretty close to 1 5/8", anyway. It was hard to see in the dark, with the cell light. If accuracy is important, I can measure in the morning. I tried to pop mine out but only one side would come loose.


The exact-I-cut is a block to measure against instead of the blade when setting up the fence. A lot of people expecially in a industrial setting will measure against the saw blade with it running and I've seen some cut their tape measures too. With this device you can get a accurate measurement away from the blade. Like I said I have no use for this anymore and I think it would fit. Our measurements are only about a 1/32" different and I don't think sears made two different sizes.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

RobinDobbie said:


> I have a deep lust for a G0715P. Maybe I'll get one if I can't make this craftman sing like new. I don't see needing the blade guard with a crosscut sled.
> 
> and if you have to rip cut before you get that G0715?
> 
> ...


dry lube products are available almost everywhere. the drawback to things like like lithium grease and oil based products is that they attract saw dust and create gummy messes that impede the movement of the saws internal components.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The spray on white lithium grease dries hard like a wax, so shouldn't attract dust once it dries.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Hold off on the exacti cut for now and see if I can get mine out. I got some info that it can be knocked out from the underside. The insert has been in there for more than 40 years and may be stuck.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

On one hand(pun intended), I do take safety very seriously. On the other, I don't put my digits behind the blade or on top of the blade without a pushing device. I do freak out when I see pictures like this:
*WARNING: GORE*: http://www.documentingreality.com/f...2405-table-saw-injury-duane_hand_injury_2.jpg

I did make my own featherboard out of red oak. I liked the store bought one because it clamps in the miter slots. The $12 cost was cheaper than I valued my time for making a DIY equivalent. I might have to reevaluate that assessment since this cheap one is so far from working. 

I like that sled. And, I keep forgetting that this new saw table is full depth, and that the runners will have plenty of time to make the sled true and straight before anything hits the blade.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

every diagram in the manual that might show the tilt screw bearing retainer installed is cropped or hidden. But, the parts blow-up shows the plate on the short end. I'm confused.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Judging from these UFO quality images from google cache and from another forum, looks like you're right, toolguy.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

that's the way both of my emerson electric built 10" TSs are. 

also, when you want to build your sled, there are a zillion "gee whiz" videos and plans on the web. but this one, from a well respected amateur WW (since deceased) who was extremely creative, provides a simple, dead accurate sled:

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t13945/


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

knotscott said:


> The spray on white lithium grease dries hard like a wax, so shouldn't attract dust once it dries.


is that what you use on your saw(s)' internals?


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> Hold off on the exacti cut for now and see if I can get mine out. I got some info that it can be knocked out from the underside. The insert has been in there for more than 40 years and may be stuck.


just push up from the under the table. the insert is a friction fit.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

This is how the thing is mounted. There is just a steel plate screwed to the insert. Once the plate is removed it just knocked out. I imagine the plastic plug is made the same way so you probably shouldn't pry on it anymore.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

toolguy1000 said:


> is that what you use on your saw(s)' internals?


:yes:


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Sweet, I go try and get my insert out. 

I already have some white lithium grease from when I had a car with a sun roof. I think the first lube I'll try is WD40 or some kind of oil. I want to get this current project out of the way. I can wash the petroleum based products off with Dawn and then do the electrolysis.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Alright, mine was pretty easy to pop out from the bottom. No plate, just friction.



















With the caliper tight, it's the same measurement I got last night.










At 1 5/8", there's a bit of a gap.










If it's loose in yours, I suppose some masking tape around the rim might tighten it up. 

EDIT: I just noticed it's 1 5/8 at the notches.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

OK I went and dug up my calipers and mine doesn't do fractions. The upper lip in the cast iron top is 1.620 . The diameter of the insert is 1.620 and the thickness of the upper lip is .245 The diameter of the lower part of the insert is 1.360 . The overall thickness is .507

Your insert is slightly smaller than mine but I think its so little you could grind it with a belt sander and make it fit. I could just put a little liquid nails on that one of yours and it would work fine.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Mine says 1.628 (which is 2/1000 from 1 5/8") when I measure across those notches on the side. The thickness is .253 - .256 depending on which side. Close enough!


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Decided to go ahead and do electrolysis on the table surface. I'm getting some naval jelly later today to finish up on the small parts and the table surface where the electrolysis was uneven for some reason. http://youtu.be/jfY_cLw4IQ0

For a dry lube, what about teflon? I mention this because my local home depot actually carries this: http://www.blastergroup.com.au/dry-teflon-lube.html

I don't know how teflon is in regards to not plugging wood pores like silicone. They do mention that it's ideal where *silicon can not be used*.

*EDIT* and then after that, would I put paste wax on top of that? Or would I even need the paste wax I just bought for the old aluminum saw? Only thing I don't like is it also says, "chalky white lubricant coating on almost any surface". I don'y want chalky white on top of the saw, but I could care less down below.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Right out of the electrolysis bath. Right side is after water rinse. 










Using a rotary tool with a small brush was cute, but just was taking too long and didn't really look good from other angles.



















30 minutes of naval jelly










After I brushed off the jelly using a plastic brush and water and let it dry:










I'm going to rinse this off again, let it dry, then do another round of naval jelly.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Instead of just rinsing, I gave it a vigorous wire brushing all the way around and on the top. 










After about 10 minutes:










After the rinse(which this time I did with a gloved hand, no brush), there's black all around, still. Curious that it's in the pattern of the plastic brush I used to rinse off the first naval jelly coating. Is it possible that's the plastic that came off the brush since the jelly is acid?


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Just to test, I put a blob of jelly in one spot.










15 minutes later, I wiped it aside.










A couple minutes later, I rinsed it all off. 










So, it's making a big difference, it just needs to be on much thicker than I had it. Tomorrow, I'll put a thick coat on the whole surface.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

you might want to check out the procedure covered in this unisaw restoration video:






here's what it's procedures did to the CI table of a unisaw i sold. no fancy chemicals or processes.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Looks good! 

I didn't want to remove any table surface that wasn't necessary. I suppose it doesn't matter, the Craftsman's original finish wasn't that smooth to begin with. 

If it really only took you a quick going-over with a couple of different grits and some mineral spirits, then I guess I wasted a lot of time. :wallbash:


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

that's right. and i wonder if progressively finer grits of paper (1000, 2000, etc) wouldn't provide a shinier finish, much like what happens when chisels and hand plane blades are sharpened with sandpaper, like was shown on the woodsmith shop and detailed in either shopnotes or woodsmith magazine.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Alright, sandpaper it is.

This is what it looked like today before I did anything:










After one more thick coat of jelly worked around. Then a rinse, dry, and mineral spirits with steel wool on just the closest section.










Hand sanding is next.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That's come along way in a short time! :thumbsup:


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Thanks! 

I think I should have just done sanding immediately after the electrolysis and wire brush. And, just one dry session of 100 grit per section is all I'm going to do for the rest of it. I tried 220 for just along with mineral spirits, but I didn't notice any difference. I think I'd have to go with some 50 and be really aggressive if I wanted to get rid of the factory surface lines and pitting to have a mirror finish. But, I'll be using this to cut wood, not fix my hair! 










This feels really smooth, so I think I'll just do the rest of it like this, then seal it up with some paste wax. Should I leave the bottom untouched?


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

RobinDobbie said:


> ......This feels really smooth, so I think I'll just do the rest of it like this, then seal it up with some paste wax. Should I leave the bottom untouched?
> 
> that's what i did. no point to exerting effort on a part of the saw that'll never be seen or come in contact with work pieces.


johnson's paste wax is good. auto waxes with silicone should be avoided.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Thanks! I got the johnson's paste wax for my old Skilsaw, and that made it an almost usable saw. The wax made a WORLD of difference. 

I heard pretty early on that silicone should be avoided, and why. It's amazing there's people on youtube that say they use it.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

It almost looked better with the dull gray sheen. That color and texture hid a lot of the defects caused by decades of neglect. But, I think I'm done with it. I'm going to give the slots and insert holes a quick wire brushing, then wax it.










There was pitting where sawdust had almost petrified in place from not being cleaned off in forever. I guess the miter gauge rested at that spot for a while, trapping the moisture in.










Tomorrow I'll tackle the miter gauge and fence/rails. 

At some point, the blade came in contact with the blade insert and the miter gauge tip. Not a genius at that workshop.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

congrats. looks really nice. i had always wondered about naval jelly. glad now that i never tried it.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

I'm sure naval jelly isn't useless, it probably needs to be in the right hands. But in my case, it wasn't useful.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I got the plug today and will send out the insert tomorrow.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Thanks, Steve! I can't wait to get it!


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Trying to wax this has been a little bit more complicated than it should be(like everything else). 

After a wipe down with mineral spirits, I waxed it last night after dark. Problem was, it just wouldn't dry. So, I brought it inside and waited an hour. It still hadn't dried. I tried to buff it anyway, since most directions I've read said it would be ready in about 10-30 minutes. It was really difficult and the paper towel just kind of stuck to the saw in various places. I gave up on it and figured I'd clean it off again and try again in the morning.

This morning I cleaned it with mineral spirits and steel wool, just to make sure I was working with a clean surface. I let the remaining mineral spirits evaporate, then I gave it another thin layer of wax and let it sit in the sun 10 minutes. It wasn't as difficult as it was last night. But, overall it's not as smooth as it was before I started. And, it was nowhere near as smooth as the cast aluminum on my old table saw. 

I'm confused.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

What kind of wax are you using?


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Johnson's paste wax in the yellow tin.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

To fix the wax situation, I just waxed it a couple more times. I read somewhere you gotta put several layers of wax on a brand new iron surface. Didn't make any sense, but I did it anyway. Now, it's smooth. 

It was missing a stop collar for the angle adjustment screw, so I made one. 




























After struggling(and failing) with getting the saw to achieve a full 45 degree angle, I realized a stop for 45 degrees was unnecessary. So, I didn't even need to make that. 

The quality, metal Exact-I-Cut that Stephen was kind enough to trade for my flimsy plastic one unfortunately did not fit. As much measuring as we did, I didn't measure the inside diameter of the inset or whatever it's called. The metal Exact-I-Cut is 1/4" too large, and the hole in the table isn't centered, anyway. 










Outside diameter was perfect:



















I made a little insert out of some laminate flooring left over from a project and some home-made set screws I made using bolt cutters on some drywall screws. I ground the cuts almost flat, then used the rotary tool's cut-off disc to put a slot in one end. Probably took 20 minutes, but a trip to home depot would have been an hour. 










My first time using a scrollsaw, so it's not perfect, but it's good enough. 



















*EDIT:*I'm not going to keep this saw. I'm going to put it back on craigslist and get a new saw. The saw table is warped just a tiny bit, I can't get it to work anywhere close to 45 degrees, and I'm just tired of effing with it. It was a waste of time, I feel. Thanks to all who had suggestions! And Stephen, thanks for the Exact-i-cut trade. I went ahead and mailed it back to you since I can't use it here.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I got the insert back today. I assumed when I saw the yellow plug in your saw the exact-I-cut as an accessory you had to buy seperately. It came with the 12" saw I bought and still can't believe the table tops didn't have a standard size hole where you could just install it. I guess I'll save it for the next person and maybe next time will know what to measure.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

Hopefully someone can take full advantage of it, someday. Again, thanks for the trade. I think that's in indicator of what a great board this is!

I read on another board that people used the yellow indicator by marking the blade position on it with a pencil. I suppose that would work. A lot of the time, I think I'd be using a crosscut sled, or jig of some sort that would obscure the indicator.

Now, I just need a grizzly coupon so I can get a saw that just works.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I've never seen any Grizzly coupons but they have sales through Sep 21st. Their G0732 is 695.00. G0715P is 795.00. G0713 is 850.00. G0661 in 875.00. G1023RL is 1250.00. G0690 is 1295.00. G0691 is 1375.00. G0652 is 1995.00.


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## RobinDobbie (Jan 31, 2013)

If they have a sale from now until september 21st, it's not really a sale! No, I heard there are coupon codes on certain woodworking magazines. I'll have to acquire one of those.


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