# Questions about building a bar top



## AKJeff (Oct 23, 2012)

Hi, I was recently asked to build a bar top for an acquaintances restaurant. While I'm not sure of the size of the bar just yet I do know that she wants a birch top as birch wood is a theme in the restaurant. I've never build a bar top before, at least not on of such a large size. I was wondering if anyone had any tips or ideas.
My main concerns are a bar top that is built to last and one that doesn't separate at any joints. I've done a little bit or research and was surprised to see a lot of people gluing down strips of hardwood to a ply base. This seemed odd to me, wouldn't this lead to cracking when it came to the hardwood top expanding or contracting?
Also, most bar tops i've seen consist of hardwood strips joined together. I'm sure the owner would love to enjoy the look and grain of wider stock but my experience with birch is that the wider the stock the higher risk of cupping. I'd hate for the bar top to warp over the years and get the patrons queasy before they even have a drink haha. 
Anyways, if anyone has any thoughts or advice it'd be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I realize you are wanting to do a good job and I don't blame you but I would make the top as cheap and simple as possible. Within a month someone will be carving there name in the top with a knife and all your good work will go to waste. I think it would be best to remake one from time to time than put a lot of work in the first top.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Building something with the intention of replacing it is like admitting defeat without ever setting foot on the battlefield. 
Maybe people would carve their names in furnishings in a craphole dive bar, but that bar probably wouldn't e interested in spending money on a new solid wood top now, would they?

Build it to last man. Strike a blow for permanence in this disposable society we live in lol!!! 

Gluing strips to plywood is a big no no, you're right on that one. I'd want the top made up of boards in the neighborhood of 6" or so wide by 1 1/4" thick minimum. If you take care to acclimate the wood properly, mill it properly, and join it properly, cupping should be a non issue with the proper finish. 

As for the finish I'd go with an epoxy base. A bar top has to be super durable. Ask about that in the wood finishing forum, lots of guys with good experience there. 

Good luck and post pics!!!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

This is a plywood top bar. I then applied epoxy for the finish. :smile:


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

Gorgeous. Just simply gorgeous.


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## yank (Nov 15, 2006)

We just finished building a new bar at my American Legion Post. 20'x30" on the front, and 8'x30 for two sides. Used one layer of 3/4 MDF and one layer of 3/4 birch plywood. I did the finish work and put 5 coats of gloss poly on. That was 4 months ago and the top still looks like it was done yesterday. 
Epoxy finish is a little on the pricey side, and we didn't have that kind of money for the bar. Also, I found out that the Epoxy scratches lots easier then the poly. All in all, it turned quite well.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

yank said:


> Also, I found out that the Epoxy scratches lots easier then the poly.



Where did you find this out at? :huh:


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## hays0369 (May 3, 2011)

+1 on Scotty. I made an outdoor table out of white oak and african mahogany and finished the top with epoxy, it has had horseshoes fall on it, bocce balls, and kids with every kind of toy abuse it and it has stood up quite well.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*Here* is a typical parts layout for a commercial type bar top with a Chicago rail and a glass rail. All these pieces cut without waste from 4x8 sheets of plywood. The actual materials for the top could also be hardwood...glued up.

As for durable finishes, epoxy would be the most durable. You could use ¼" clear plate glass, or, ¼' mirror. I've used both in commercial establishments and they hold up very well. Not as fragile as you might think.








 







.


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## yank (Nov 15, 2006)

mdntrdr; from my own experience. I have an island that was built by the previous owner, and he used the epoxy, and it has light scratches all over it. I have a window shelf I built for a double window in my dining room, 3 coats of poly, installed it 5 years ago, and still no scratch marks.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

yank said:


> mdntrdr; from my own experience. I have an island that was built by the previous owner, and he used the epoxy, and it has light scratches all over it. I have a window shelf I built for a double window in my dining room, 3 coats of poly, installed it 5 years ago, and still no scratch marks.



Thanx for the reply. I chose to use an epoxy finish because IT IS more durable than a poly finish. If it wasn't nobody would go through the hassle of applying it. :smile:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> I realize you are wanting to do a good job and I don't blame you but I would make the top as cheap and simple as possible. Within a month someone will be carving there name in the top with a knife and all your good work will go to waste. I think it would be best to remake one from time to time than put a lot of work in the first top.


The customers art work on the bar top just adds to the character.

I would make a nice top and NOT plan periodically making new ones.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

yank said:


> mdntrdr; from my own experience. I have an island that was built by the previous owner, and he used the epoxy, and it has light scratches all over it. I have a window shelf I built for a double window in my dining room, 3 coats of poly, installed it 5 years ago, and still no scratch marks.


There is a big difference between the type of wear and the amount of use between an island and a window shelf.

George


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