# Sharpening with sandpaper on glass



## Dylan JC Buffum (Jun 9, 2019)

I’m sure there have been 1001 threads on this already, but here goes.

Looking to improve my sharpening system for chisels and turning tools, and I’m looking to do it on a budget. I have a WEN variable speed bench grinder for the major stuff. For more fine sharpening, I’ve been using wet/dry sandpaper adhered to a sheet of glass with spray adhesive.

The problem I’m running into is I can’t consistently get a reliably flat adhesion between the paper and the glass. Sometimes it’s great, but often it bubbles. When I sharpen the tool, the blade slices the paper.

I should probably just invest in some stones of some type. But I’d like to see if I can make the paper-glass system work. Anyone have any suggestions?


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

imo you can't go wrong with these $9 harbor fright diamond hones used with a $12 chisel sharpening jig
the jig gives you a consistent and repeatable angle for sharpening
i also made the wood jig for setting the depth of insertion into the sharpening jig
you'll have $22 invested in the whole sharpening set
i routed a base out of corian to hold the hones in place and for a little more room


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Ogre has it right for starting out.

I used 3m 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper from the auto parts store (couldn't find it anywhere else), And a polished granite floor tile. Just wet the tile then lay the paper on it... no adhesive, then wet the grit side and use with a honing guide. The paper stays in place held with the surface tension of just the water.


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## Dylan JC Buffum (Jun 9, 2019)

I’ve never used diamond plate. Does it need lubrication (water)? How do you maintain it?


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

i just wash it in the sink before and after use
don't oil the hf hones or the glue separates
before the hones i used the self stick paper on melamine surface, it got a little expensive


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Water and surface tension works for me with sandpaper. I use a piece of granite countertop instead of glass.

I have a set of diamond stones. Here are some hints about diamond stones:

* I use water on my diamond stones. Water provides lubrication so the blade moves smoother and easier across the surface. It also helps "float" away the metal swarf (dust) that comes off the blade. Water rusts tools quickly, so be sure to dry everything thoroughly. Protect your tools with wax or oil when done. 

* Diamond stones come in varying qualities. Some have poor adhesive where the diamond surface flakes off. I bought a cheap diamond stone and you can see patches where the diamond material flaked off the base metal. DMT claims that their "monocrystalline" diamonds last longer than competitors "polycrystalline" diamonds. 

* Pressing harder does not sharpen faster. It only puts more stress on the adhesive substrate that holds the diamond surface in place. You will wear out your stone faster, but not sharpen any more or faster than before.

* The metal particles will leave black stains on your fingers. Disposable gloves tend to catch and tear. I use gritty "pumice" soap; the kind that car mechanics use. It works okay, but the results are not "bank teller hands" nice. 

* The steel swarf and base can rust. You can clean up your diamond stones with ordinary kitchen cleanser and an old toothbrush. I wash them outside with a garden hose, because I don't want the metal particles to go down the drain.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Paul sellers recommends auto windshield washer solvent. You can quick dry them with your warm vacuum exhaust air. On how hard to press?...about the same as using sandpaper on a wet polished granite tile or glass.


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## redeared (Feb 7, 2019)

I tried that Harbor Freight holder it didn't work well, I find the Veritas jig is much better.
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=144
As far as stones I use these the 8x3 size
https://woodworker.com/dia-sharp-ex-fine-6-x-2-1200-mssu-106-544.asp
I use Windex as a lubricate.
Then a 3000 grit wet stone


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## Elden Cozort (Oct 30, 2018)

After going through several sheets of 1000 and 2000 grit sand paper, I got a 1000 grit and 3000 grit (cheapie) diamond plate on Amazon (About $20.00 total) a couple of years ago. I am still using them.

I second Windex as a lubricant. I was using water and forgot to wipe off the 3000 grit plate and in 10 to 15 minutes it started to rust.

For the courser grit work, I still use sand paper but I might give those harbor freight ones a try.

I've tried a couple of the sharpening jigs and the issue I've encountered is that the jig doesn't keep the iron square so I end up with an edge that is not perpendicular to the blade. I have found that doing a hollow grind on a grinder and then cleaning it up with the diamond plates works much better for me. I always try to get the hollow grind in the middle of the flat of the chisel and then use the edge and heel as a balance point to keep close to the desired 25 degree angle while sanding.


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## SWrick (Apr 8, 2020)

Should the chisels be sharpened at 30 or 35 degrees?


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Chisel Bevel Angle:

The default bevel angle for typical bevel edge (bench) chisels is 25 degrees. That said, woodworkers change the bevel angle to suit their needs. 

DMT Duo-Sharp Diamond Stones and the Holders that Are Supplied with Them:

I also want to comment about my DMT diamond stones. I have several, including two of the two-sided "Duo-Sharp" stones. DMT makes good quality diamond stones.

Diamond stones are expensive, so I bought the two-sided Duo-Sharp stones because they were a better value. The surfaces themselves are good, but the Duo-Sharp stones are not as easy to use as they should be. They are flat two-sided plates with thinner "tongues" sticking out each end, almost like tenons. They come with a plastic holder with a clip on each end that holds the plate on the holder. It works well, but:

* The clips are a pain to insert and remove. Thus, flipping the stone to the next finer grit (or back again), takes more time and trouble than it should. The clips work like those nylon buckles where you pinch the "arrow" tabs. You must pinch one of the clips under the plastic Duo-Sharp holder, then wiggle it all the way out to release the diamond stone and flip it. The clips are long, so they don't pull straight out of their slots easily; you must wiggle them out.

* The plastic holders themselves are bulky and do not store easily. They have internal plastic supports and a long rib on the bottom that prevent them from stacking or storing easily. They take up as much space as a push block, for something that should be flat and easy to store. 

* If you lose or break a clip, then there is no easy way to hold the stone in place. I assume that DMT can send replacement parts or you can make your own holder from wood, I suppose. Either way, it shouldn't be necessary.

Bottom line: 
DMT makes good diamond stones, but they did not think about the ergonomics of how people actually use their Duo-Sharp design. Despite the extra cost, I wish I had bought separate stones. I have one "Dia-Sharp" stone with rubber feet that is much easier to use.

Someday I will make my own, better holder, the one that DMT should have included with their Duo-Sharp stones.


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## JohnTC (Mar 1, 2018)

This stone is super cheap, but decided to give it a try anyway and was pleasantly surprised. It's good for the money. https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-107...07BWHBV8D/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pl_foot_top?ie=UTF8


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

When using sandpaper for sharpening, pull, dont push. If you push, the edge of your tool will cut into the sandpaper if the force tips it even a tiny bit, and as you can imagine, thats not good for the edge. If your blade doesnt cut through, the sandpaper will still bunch up in front of the edge and cause it to round off the, just a tiny bit. Again, not good for the sharpness of the edge. If you pull, the bunching of the paper will just roll a non-critical edge


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