# Router Bit Options for Drawers



## MrZ2u (Feb 1, 2015)

Just for making drawers and nothing else and as an alternative to dovetail or box joints as a time saving measure. Might be from 11 layer Baltic Birch ply or solid Pine board.

Considering pros and cons of three different bits. With any of the three I would purchase the setup block.

Looks like it would do a good job. Do one vertical and one horizontal and your done. Except you need to make several passes so this one seems to be the most prone for errors of the three and also the one that would take the most time as a result.











Less gluing surface but also single passes.












And lastly, not intended for this purpose but couldn’t one just make a pass vertical and one horizontal to get a 90 and then also have a bit for another purpose? 












Your thoughts? Any personal experience with this specific task and one of these bits?


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Well, if you are planning on plywood, I wouldn't recommend the lock miter. I had horrendous tearout using that beast on plywood. 
The drawer lock isn't a bad choice but, it basically produces a locking rabbet joint which is pretty easy to do with just a straight bit or slot cutter. The exception being if you need to incorporate the overlay into the drawer front, as opposed to a separate drawer front, the drawer lock is likely the logical choice. 
Hadn't thought much about using the glue joint bit for corners but don't see why it wouldn't work if the stock is thick enough. I would say 3/4" thick minimum. I don't usually make drawers out of that thick of stock, usually I've found 1/2" plywood substantial enough.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

What is your goal? The strongest joint? The joint that takes the least time? Or what?

George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The lock miter bit would quickly wear out using it on plywood. It wouldn't cut it very good anyway and is unnecessary. The second bit is better but you would still have the problem with the bit dulling and again is unnecessary. It would be better just to make a complete box out of plywood and then attach a drawer front to it. If you wished what is illustrated in the second picture you could just rabbet the drawer front and glue and nail the drawer side to the front. I have drawers I've made more than 40 years ago that are made in that manor and have never come apart. 

The last picture is a glue joint bit. It is intended to be used as illustrated. The idea is the zig zag cut across the edge of the wood increases the surface area to be glued. It's like having the glue joint of a 1" thick board on a 3/4" board by doing it. It also helps force the boards to flatten out together as they are being pulled up in the clamps.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If you are looking for fast and strong, a sliding dovetail will work.


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