# fractional stick on measuring tape



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Couldn't figure out where in the forum to put this one, so I hope I have the right spot. Anyway, I'm wondering if anybody has a source for a stick on measuring tapes with fractional measurements, something like this:
http://images.spadepot.com/images/filters-read-tape-measure.jpg

To clarify, I know all tapes have the indentations marked in 1/16 inch increments, but I'm looking for something that's actually labeled. The intent for this is to smack it on my table saw fence rail to use to, well, set the fence. The fractional prints are something that I have on my tape measures and find extremely, as it makes it very easy to deal with the mess that is the imperial system. Many thanks!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Here Ya go*

*








Sticky Back Measuring Tapes
*








*Mylar Sticky Back Tapes: *These self adhesive Mylar measuring tapes are great for jigs and fixtures or to replace an old worn factory tape on your shop equipment. These Tapes measure in 16th increments with the graduation marks to the top and the inch marks to the bottom. Tapes are yellow with black print. 

*Come In:* 12", 24" & 48" Length Stick Back Mylar Tapes.
*

Steel Sticky Back Tapes:** These self adhesive Steel measuring tapes are great for long jigs and fixtures to give that added extra strength. These Tapes measure in 16th increments with the graduation marks to the top and the inch marks to the bottom. Tapes are yellow with black print. 

Come in: *6' & 12' Length Sticky Back Steel Tapes 

http://www.ptreeusa.com/layout_tape_measures.htm


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I make a concave cut on the edge of the wood and glue tape measure blades on with contact cement. The free 25' tape measures that Harbor Freight has with a coupon has the fractions in increments down to 1/8".


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

epicfail48 said:


> Couldn't figure out where in the forum to put this one, so I hope I have the right spot. Anyway, I'm wondering if anybody has a source for a stick on measuring tapes with fractional measurements, something like this:
> http://images.spadepot.com/images/filters-read-tape-measure.jpg
> 
> To clarify, I know all tapes have the indentations marked in 1/16 inch increments, but I'm looking for something that's actually labeled. The intent for this is to smack it on my table saw fence rail to use to, well, set the fence. The fractional prints are something that I have on my tape measures and find extremely, as it makes it very easy to deal with the mess that is the imperial system. Many thanks!


There is just too much information on the bottom of that tape, I grew up with the imperial system and the top is so much easier to read, when I look at the marks I think fractions, them being different lengths also helps.


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

FrankC said:


> There is just too much information on the bottom of that tape, I grew up with the imperial system and the top is so much easier to read, when I look at the marks I think fractions, them being different lengths also helps.


+100, I have a tape measure with numbers like that and have a very hard time reading it. It's so busy that unless I get really close, I simply can't tell. and there are lots of cases where you need to read it from a couple feet away or more. Give me different length hash marks and I can read it just fine. And my eyesight is pretty good - I can split the 1/16ths marks by sight. The numbers just add too much visual clutter.

And to be responsive to the OP, I think your best chance is to get a tape measure with that kind of marking an sacrifice it. Those are usually the cheapest ones so it's probably less expensive than the marking tape.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I'm so dumb I read my tape like this. One and one half inches and one little mark more. Or one half inch fat. Or one inch light. I build most everything in even inches and try to measure as little as possible. 

I looked at the fractions written tape and God love ya, Its like a maze to someone like me.

I think Neul has a good Idea and if I understand it correctly, it's free.

Al


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I gre up reading fractions...*

I was very familiar with the factional system of measure, and that's all I used for 25 years as a youngster. Then I went to work for General Motors design and they all used decimals to 1/100 th inches. So after a while I got used to reading those scales and we had to be as accurate as possible for the engineering group to record data from the scale models OR to input the changes back into the clay. Then they switched to the Metric System and we all had to learn that method. In some ways it's easier since it's in multiples of 10 like decimals, but different lengths. 2.54 cm equals 1 inch. I inch divided by 2.54 equals .3937, so a cm is about 4 tenths of an inch.

Fractional measuring is, or can be "visual" where the other systems are not, at least in my opinion. ....4 big marks, plus 3 medium marks, plus 2 tiny marks.... is 4 7/8" OR 2 tiny marks less than 5 inches.:blink: 

Measuring can be "subtractive" rather than additive, also.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> I was very familiar with the factional system of measure, and that's all I used for 25 years as a youngster. Then I went to work for General Motors design and they all used decimals to 1/100 th inches. So after a while I got used to reading those scales and we had to be as accurate as possible for the engineering group to record data from the scale models OR to input the changes back into the clay. Then they switched to the Metric System and we all had to learn that method. In some ways it's easier since it's in multiples of 10 like decimals, but different lengths. 2.54 cm equals 1 inch. I inch divided by 2.54 equals .3937, so a cm is about 4 tenths of an inch.
> 
> Fractional measuring is, or can be "visual" where the other systems are not, at least in my opinion. ....4 big marks, plus 3 medium marks, plus 2 tiny marks.... is 4 7/8" OR 2 tiny marks less than 5 inches.:blink:
> 
> Measuring can be "subtractive" rather than additive, also.


I sometimes wonder if I would have been better off if the country had forced the metric system.

Al


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

We would've been way better off if the country forced the metric system, but alas, it has not and most woodworking plans are in inches. As much as I'd like to slap on a meterstick it'd be a bit difficult for me to constantly convert between the two systems. I do also agree that having numbersfor each fraction is a lot of information to have on one tape, but its how I work. Like I said, I've already got a tape measure like this and I like the ease of measurement that comes from giving it a glance and going "okay, 5/16" without counting off the notches.

That all said, think I found one if anybody else cares:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2AFR3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_nqpdub1XWD4FA

Little bit more expensive than others I've seen, but it has the graduations labeled the way I like and as an added bonus has metric markings as well. Think I'll wait till payday and order a roll, unless anybody has a cheaper alternative


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Sooo not a fan of the metric system here. I went to a private school in the mid-80s and we were taught fractions starting at 2nd grade. By 5th grade adding, subtracting, multiplying and dividing them was something you could do in your sleep.

So when I got into carpentry/construction a few years ago it came pretty natural to me how to read a tape. And if youre one of us who wears one on their side everyday it becomes just as autonomous as anything else.


That being said, Ive seen the tapes with the fractions and as someone else mentioned they are too busy to me.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Chamfer said:


> Sooo not a fan of the metric system here. I went to a private school in the mid-80s and we were taught fractions starting at 2nd grade. By 5th grade adding, subtracting, multiplying and dividing them was something you could do in your sleep.
> 
> So when I got into carpentry/construction a few years ago it came pretty natural to me how to read a tape. And if youre one of us who wears one on their side everyday it becomes just as autonomous as anything else.
> 
> ...


I agree to an extent. Fractions are easy, but the imperial system is a mess. For precision decimal inches are used, but for most things fractional inches are used, sometimes the two standards are used in tandem, e.g aligning a table saw arbor is done by thousands whereas cuts are fractional. Beyond that, scaling is a mess. 12 inches to a foot, 3 feet to a yard, 5000 some odd feet to a mile, six rods to the hogshead, 2 cords to a gallon, one pint to an ounce, 9 ounces to a fluid ounce, there's no rhyme or reason!

Metric, you multiply or divide by 10 to get different units. 100grams? That's a hectagram, a tenth of a kilogram, 100000 milligrams, simple!

Metric 4 lyfe


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't know that reading fractions is all that necessary. I've known several fine craftsman that could build anything tht couldn't read a tape below 1/8". They just had their own system. I remember one of them would write 13/32" as 3/8"+.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> I don't know that reading fractions is all that necessary. I've known several fine craftsman that could build anything tht couldn't read a tape below 1/8". They just had their own system. I remember one of them would write 13/32" as 3/8"+.


To each his own my friend. May not be. Necessary to those mentioned fine craftsman but it does help my personal workkflow


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## Anguspapa (May 4, 2013)

Al B Thayer said:


> I sometimes wonder if I would have been better off if the country had forced the metric system. Al


Carter started drilling in the metric system and Reagan broke up. I believe his quote was we ate a free country and we will do is we want. I believe we are the only country does not use the metric system for metric system is a billion times easier. But I am also a rebel and use the standard system but only in inches. I have also heard all federally reviewed building plans are required to be in the metric system will be required to be in the metric system.

Eric


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Since we are OT, I'll continue the tangent. I've done a lot of circuit board design and we mix metric and imperial all the time. It's pretty much second nature to switch between. While metric is good for doing easy math (well, sort of), I've never found imperial to be hard. inches to feet - x10 plus 20% for linear. bdft calcs are a little harder. inches to metric and back is pretty easy - just memorize 25.4 mm to the inch and use 25 when precision isn't important. 300 mm to the foot. 3.3 ft to the meter. and so on, when you need precision, use a calculator/phone/computer.

For CAD users, the biggest pain is grid alignment. In electronics the grids are either imperial (in mils 1/1000 of an inch) or metric but using an imperial measurement (.0254 is a mil - UGLY grid). Try mixing components from the two different systems - nothing lines up easy. In sketchup, I ran into this using 18 mm baltic birch with otherwise imperial based lumber. Need to get a decent metric tape measure to make sure it comes out right.


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## ptofimpact (Apr 29, 2013)

If you have a HomeGoods store in your area, or a TJMax, they have FREE pliable plastic Yardsticks, for measuring the furniture pieces they sell. Got me one, used rubber cement, stuck it to workbench. It is helpful for many quick measurements, does not have the 'numbers' that you are looking for, but thought I ould post this anyways.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Anguspapa said:


> Carter started drilling in the metric system and Reagan broke up. I believe his quote was we ate a free country and we will do is we want. I believe we are the only country does not use the metric system for metric system is a billion times easier. But I am also a rebel and use the standard system but only in inches. I have also heard all federally reviewed building plans are required to be in the metric system will be required to be in the metric system.
> 
> Eric


USA, Burma and Liberia


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## Hubshooter (Jul 26, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> I'm so dumb I read my tape like this. One and one half inches and one little mark more. Or one half inch fat. Or one inch light.
> 
> Al


Just a fuzz more is a standardized unit of measurement in the south. Unfortunately they can't fit on the tapes either!


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Hubshooter said:


> Just a fuzz more is a standardized unit of measurement in the south. Unfortunately they can't fit on the tapes either!


Fuzz, smig, scosh, red hair, lite, heavy, tence, tad

Al


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

4 and a half and an eighth and a little bit. The little bit being less than a 16th past and closer to the 8th mark.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

ptofimpact said:


> If you have a HomeGoods store in your area, or a TJMax, they have FREE pliable plastic Yardsticks, for measuring the furniture pieces they sell. Got me one, used rubber cement, stuck it to workbench. It is helpful for many quick measurements, does not have the 'numbers' that you are looking for, but thought I ould post this anyways.


Ermm... Table SAW mate. Good suggestion though


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I guess that what puzzles me about this whole thread is, Do people really use those rulers that are built into the table saw. I have never even considered using that method. I always measure the distance between the blade and the fence with a good measuring tool.

Can you get any amount of accuracy with that built in?

George


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> I guess that what puzzles me about this whole thread is, Do people really use those rulers that are built into the table saw. I have never even considered using that method. I always measure the distance between the blade and the fence with a good measuring tool.
> 
> Can you get any amount of accuracy with that built in?
> 
> George


i have the usa made delta and i use the ruler on the tube we will say 2" and than measure blade to fence, it is right on , now you have to set up the ruler to do this tho. make test cut's tell you get it right? works for me


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> I guess that what puzzles me about this whole thread is, Do people really use those rulers that are built into the table saw. I have never even considered using that method. I always measure the distance between the blade and the fence with a good measuring tool.
> 
> Can you get any amount of accuracy with that built in?
> 
> George


I have a Unisaw. I've been using the tape on the saw for almost 30 years. It has a hair line cursor and when the mark on the tape disappears. Your spot on. It's very accurate and stays true. 

Al


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Al B Thayer said:


> I have a Unisaw. I've been using the tape on the saw for almost 30 years. It has a hair line cursor and when the mark on the tape disappears. Your spot on. It's very accurate and stays true.
> 
> Al


When you switch full and thin kerf blades how do you account for the thickness difference?

George


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> When you switch full and thin kerf blades how do you account for the thickness difference?
> 
> George


Well I don't switch but the cursor is easy to adjust. If you haven't experienced this type of table saw. Your really going to like it when you do. 

I have been breaking all the rules when it comes to table saw blades. The only time I use a different type of blade is when I'm ripping junk wood or lots of soft wood. Otherwise I use an 80 tooth blade for everything except long rips. I found I don't want to give up the super smooth cut that reduces my sanding so much. Got to clean them often though. When I really want a smooth cut I switch to an 84 tooth. Been doing it this way for over 20 years.

Al


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Well I don't switch but the cursor is easy to adjust. If you haven't experienced this type of table saw. Your really going to like it when you do.
> 
> I have been breaking all the rules when it comes to table saw blades. The only time I use a different type of blade is when I'm ripping junk wood or lots of soft wood. Otherwise I use an 80 tooth blade for everything except long rips. I found I don't want to give up the super smooth cut that reduces my sanding so much. Got to clean them often though. When I really want a smooth cut I switch to an 84 tooth. Been doing it this way for over 20 years.
> 
> Al


Dang, you must have a beast of a saw to be making rip cuts with an 80 tooth. Mine bogs down with a 50


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Dang, you must have a beast of a saw to be making rip cuts with an 80 tooth. Mine bogs down with a 50


I have a 3hp Unisaw. I don't do a lot of ripping but it cuts right through it. I mostly build furniture. Never any remodeling or construction. But I do have a cheap Irwin on hand for soft wood.

This is one of a hundred reasons why I always encourage guys to buy the best tools and not settle for box store tools.

Al


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*let's see the beast and the blade*



epicfail48 said:


> Dang, you must have a beast of a saw to be making rip cuts with an 80 tooth. Mine bogs down with a 50


I'm betting it's a full kerf blade with a fair amount of set. :blink:
I've always believed that when ripping you need a large gullet to carry away the long grain fibers as opposed to crosscutting which "cuts and chops" them into smaller pieces AND the blade should be high enough above the work so the gullet bottom shows. Now I've never tried an 80 tooth blade for ripping, so I can't speak from first hand experience.

If your experience is different then by all means show us the way you do it. :yes:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> I'm betting it's a full kerf blade with a fair amount of set. :blink:
> I've always believed that when ripping you need a large gullet to carry away the long grain fibers as opposed to crosscutting which "cuts and chops" them into smaller pieces AND the blade should be high enough above the work so the gullet bottom shows. Now I've never tried an 80 tooth blade for ripping, so I can't speak from first hand experience.
> 
> If your experience is different then by all means show us the way you do it. :yes:


For me it's just a matter of smoother cuts. I don't care if it's wrong or not best. It might be a full kerf but it's no where near as full as the blades they used to sell. But not a lade that is labeled thin kerf.

Al









This would be the beast but I'm not in the habit of taking pictures of my saw blades. It's one of those cute little red ones found at the box store. Use it and pitch it type. 

Al


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

epicfail48 said:


> Couldn't figure out where in the forum to put this one, so I hope I have the right spot. Anyway, I'm wondering if anybody has a source for a stick on measuring tapes with fractional measurements, something like this:
> http://images.spadepot.com/images/filters-read-tape-measure.jpg
> 
> To clarify, I know all tapes have the indentations marked in 1/16 inch increments, but I'm looking for something that's actually labeled. The intent for this is to smack it on my table saw fence rail to use to, well, set the fence. The fractional prints are something that I have on my tape measures and find extremely, as it makes it very easy to deal with the mess that is the imperial system. Many thanks!


The thread went off a bit so I didn't read it all to see if this has been posted however these are the ones I use on my Unisaw as well as other jigs...

http://sommerfeldtools.com/16-metric-or-standard-self-adhesive-measuring-tape

Nice thing is they are printed on both sides (l-r and r-l) and come with a roll of double sided tape to attach.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Marv said:


> The thread went off a bit so I didn't read it all to see if this has been posted however these are the ones I use on my Unisaw as well as other jigs...
> 
> http://sommerfeldtools.com/16-metric-or-standard-self-adhesive-measuring-tape
> 
> Nice thing is they are printed on both sides (l-r and r-l) and come with a roll of double sided tape to attach.


Dude, i love you. That is exactly, spot on what i was looking for. Id give you a cookie if i knew you in person


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> For me it's just a matter of smoother cuts. I don't care if it's wrong or not best. It might be a full kerf but it's no where near as full as the blades they used to sell. But not a lade that is labeled thin kerf.
> 
> Al
> 
> ...


I want your shop


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Dude, i love you. That is exactly, spot on what i was looking for. Id give you a cookie if i knew you in person


Send out that cookie! We have a winner!

Al


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Send out that cookie! We have a winner!
> 
> Al


Winner in a big way. 100% spot on what i wanted


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

Chocolate chip will be fine! :smile:


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Marv said:


> Chocolate chip will be fine! :smile:


Hell, I'm so happy at this point if you sent me your address I would


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

epicfail48 said:


> Hell, I'm so happy at this point if you sent me your address I would


 I tell you what, we'll call it even if you can find me a left handed (r-l reading) fractional marking tape measure with a lever lock on the bottom instead of a thumb lock. :smile:


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Marv said:


> I tell you what, we'll call it even if you can find me a left handed (r-l reading) fractional marking tape measure with a lever lock on the bottom instead of a thumb lock. :smile:


http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-PSSR25-Lefty-Righty-Measuring/dp/B0001GUE3Q

Found this, but its not lever lock. I must admit, I think you've got me stumped, but I'll keep looking. I have a debt to repay


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## Marv (Nov 30, 2008)

epicfail48 said:


> http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-PSSR25-Lefty-Righty-Measuring/dp/B0001GUE3Q
> 
> Found this, but its not lever lock. I must admit, I think you've got me stumped, but I'll keep looking. I have a debt to repay


Thanks and I haven't seen that one however it could be a contender if I don't come across one with the lever lock. :smile: Something I have never understood is why "standard" tape measures read left to right yet most people are right handed and typically hold the tape with their left hand so they can mark with their right which puts the numbers upside down. :huh:


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Marv said:


> Thanks and I haven't seen that one however it could be a contender if I don't come across one with the lever lock. :smile: Something I have never understood is why "standard" tape measures read left to right yet most people are right handed and typically hold the tape with their left hand so they can mark with their right which puts the numbers upside down. :huh:


....thanks, i never realized that until you just pointed it out


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## Hubshooter (Jul 26, 2014)

epicfail48 said:


> Dang, you must have a beast of a saw to be making rip cuts with an 80 tooth. Mine bogs down with a 50



I use an 80 tooth blade on my BT3000 for everything which has a small motor, but i go slow and let the blade do all the work, I know its not the ideal situation but I rarely get burn marks or paint transfer from the blade to wood and I enjoy the baby bottom smooth cuts i get from it. Plus being young, broke, and new to woodworking, I went with what I "thought" was the best overall blade.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Hubshooter said:


> I use an 80 tooth blade on my BT3000 for everything which has a small motor, but i go slow and let the blade do all the work, I know its not the ideal situation but I rarely get burn marks or paint transfer from the blade to wood and I enjoy the baby bottom smooth cuts i get from it. Plus being young, broke, and new to woodworking, I went with what I "thought" was the best overall blade.


Been there my friend. For the longest time until fairly recently I just used a 60t crosscut ATB blade for everything, and it worked alright for most things. The I got one of the Irwin classic line 2 pack blade things with the rip and crosscut blades, and boy did I see the light. I went from only being able to make 1/2 inch passes on a rip cut at a snails pace to being able to tear through a 2x4 at full depth without the motor breaking a sweat with the rip blade, and since I wasn't pushing the crosscut blade too hard and causing it to overheat, I've found both blades lasted longer.

Done get me wrong, I still keep a 60t crosscut blade in 90% of the time, but if I know I'll need to do a lot of ripping, I'll switch blades. Right tool for the job and all that jazz.

I'll step off my soapbox now


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