# table saw outfeed extension design



## fantaglub (Aug 30, 2009)

Hi all,

Well, I have just bought a grizzly G0690 table saw (a clone of it in fact) and while it may take some times before I receive it (I live in la Reunion island), I am in the process of "designing" an outfeed table.

I wonder if I could get some advice here. 

here is how the saw looks like, it is a short extension table saw









What I already read is that the outfeed table should be long enough so a full 4x8' sheet cut in the lenght shall not fall after being cut. So the width shall be at least 4' at the end of the saw blade insert. 

would you have some other advises or even pictures or links for such an outfeed table, that would be nice.

for example, I dont understand why there is often an open gap between the two miter gauge tracks on some outfeed tables i've seen.

for example on this outfeed table










thank you


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

In my shop the size of the out feed table was governed by the size of the shop, a.k.a. a garage.

My out feed table is about 6 feet wide and about 42" deep. The table top is of torsion box design. The top was covered with a good quality 3/4" plywood and then a sheet of Formica. (HD has Formica at about $40 a sheet for white.) The edges and legs are good KD 2x4 from Lowe's. I added an additional 2x4 to the edge facing the saw. This 2x4 was ripped to size and rounded over to fit into the rear fence rail. I drilled two holes through the rail and into the extra 2x4 for threaded inserts. The bolts through the fence rail only prevent the out feed table from moving. The legs are 2x4s with braces and leveling feet. (Appliance parts store had the feet with a 2 inch long thread portion. Again a threaded insert to the rescue in the bottom of the leg.) The legs support all the weight of the table and the screws through the rear rail only are used as "locating pins".


----------



## mike65072 (Apr 13, 2008)

The gap you are referring to is for the blade guard/splitter.


----------



## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

My outfeed table is 4' x 6' and is of a modified torsion design. Not as much of a grid and 1 1/2" thick MDF top with formica on top and edges.
the base is 4x4 legs with 2x4 rails top and bottom on 3 sides then the whole thing is wrapped with 3/4 MDF on 3 sides. the open side has a 3/4 MDF removable panel to close off the under table storage.


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Richard's post reminded me of another option, industrial doors.

Typically 1-3/4" thick and as much as 48" wide. They are usually about 7 feet long. These doors are HEAVY and a particle board between two sheets of 1/4" Masonite. I would not try to cut these doors to length but if you have the room they will make a very good (And Flat) out feed table. BTW - The Masonite holds Johnson's Paste Wax very well. It does darken the Masonite somewhat but it seems that the paste wax last forever.


----------



## adpanko (Jun 25, 2009)

Obviously outfeed tables are highly customizable, but in my experience I'd say there are three things that are an absolute must:

1) Miter slot extensions (this is the most obvious and clearly required)

2) Deep enough to rip a length of 8' and be able to have the cut piece rest on it without you having to hold it down after passing the back of the blade. If you shop isn't large enough or you don't want to sacrifice the space to have a fixed table that is about four feet deep, you can make the fixed portion of the table less than four feet, and then make a separate detachable extension piece to make up the difference. After all, most cuts aren't a full 8' rip anyway, so you won't always need a 4' deep table. But with an extension piece for the outfeed, you can simply put it on whenever you do need an 8' cut. I did this extension method in my shop. The table is about about 3' deep, and as wide as my table saw top (SawStop contractor saw with 36" rip capacity; total width is about 70")

3) A nice smooth top. I built mine out of 3/4" ply with a 2x4 frame underneath, and the ply has a sheet of Formica on the top. I have a relatively small shop (11x24 one car garage), so my outfeed table doubles as an assembly table too. The Formica is nice and slick, durable and glue, paint, etc rub right off it.


----------



## daxinarian (Sep 8, 2008)

Related to the miter slot extensions, do you make them a tight close fit or is it just clearance so that the miter bar doesn't get stuck?


----------



## adpanko (Jun 25, 2009)

[/QUOTE]


daxinarian said:


> Related to the miter slot extensions, do you make them a tight close fit or is it just clearance so that the miter bar doesn't get stuck?


I made mine long enough so that I can have the face of my miter gauge extend about 2 inches past the end of the blade when at its full height, and it is wide enough that there is about a quarter inch clearance on each side of the miter bar. I don't see any harm in making the extensions slightly larger than you need instead of trying to cut exact dimensions.

To the original poster: I made mine really simple as you can see. 3/4" ply with Formica top. I used the black Formica because it has tiny little indents/holes all along the surface instead of being completely flat and smooth. I thought this would add to making it easier for wood to glide on it as the little holes would hold little air pockets and prevent excessive surface friction. Seems to work really well. The top is glued and screwed into a simple 2x4 frame, which is itself glued and pocket screwed together. As you'll see in the pictures, I have the end of the table closest to the saw actually sitting on and screwed to the rear angle iron of the saw. I though this would make the table and the saw really firm and sturdy together, and further, I like that some of the table's weight is resting on the saw. It makes the saw that much sturdier and further reduces vibrations. The table isn't so heavy that I have to worry about tipping or otherwise putting undue pressure on the saw. My saw is only a contractor saw model, but the Sawstop is built like a tank, and I upgraded to the cast iron extension wings, so it is real heavy and stable. I'm eventually going to make various storage units like roll out cabinets or storage trays for all the space underneath the table.


----------



## fantaglub (Aug 30, 2009)

thank you for these pictures.
the last one looks really good. I may build one like this but I wonder if the fence resting on the table directly instead than resting on the rear rail does matter? I've never had a table saw myself so excuse me if that is an inappropriate comment.


----------



## adpanko (Jun 25, 2009)

fantaglub said:


> thank you for these pictures.
> the last one looks really good. I may build one like this but I wonder if the fence resting on the table directly instead than resting on the rear rail does matter? I've never had a table saw myself so excuse me if that is an inappropriate comment.


When you say "fence", do you mean the rip fence? Judging from the picture of your saw, it appears to be constructed like mine in that the rip fence doesn't actually make contact with the rear rail at all anyway. With Biesemeyer style fences like this, the fence only rides on and touches the front rail, not the back at all. So the rear rail's only purpose is to provide support and connect together the backs of the top and extension wings. So anyway, resting the outfeed table on the rear rail of my saw has zero impact on my rip fence at all. It appears your saw would be the same story


----------



## fantaglub (Aug 30, 2009)

hello adpanko, thank you for your answer

the grizzly rip fence has a rear rail foot that stand on the rear rail, and it is written on the user manual that the fence shall be adjusted high enough off the table so that it does not drag across the table. Anyway, your design must be good for my saw too, what i'll make is just take off the rear rail foot and insert a thin piece of teflon so that it does not drag across the table.


----------

