# Table saw fence not square to table



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Im back again, with another oddball question! Ive an old craftsman contractor-style table saw that i picked up a while back, works well enough. One major issue, however, that ive found is that the fence doesnt sit square to the table. Now, i dont mean that it wont make a square rip cut with respect to the blade, that part ive adjusted out. More that the sides of the fence arent square, like rip cuts on a board pressed against the fence come out as if the blade were set at an angle. Presently, ive several different ideas on how to fix this. I can: 
A) Build a new saw fence. 
B) Try to cut a board at the same angle the fence is off by and bolt that to the fence
C) Rig up some sort of long, auxiliary style fence to the actual fence that attaches to the top, comes out to the side and sits at a square angle to the table, independent of the actual fence.

Moral of the story is, has anybody faced a similar problem to this? How did you fix it, and what are your thoughts on my ideas?


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## rustbucket (Nov 13, 2009)

Are you sure that the blade is square to the table? Ripping a board it shouldn't really matter if the fence is square to the table as long as it's parallel to the blade. If, in fact, the fence isn't square to the table, mount an auxiliary fence and shim square. There may even be a way to adjust. Take a few pictures to show what's going on.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Basic question ...is the blade square to the table? 

Building an aux fence and shimming that would be easy enough. You could also shim the fence at the point of contact to the front rail.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

" Now, i dont mean that it wont make a square rip cut with respect to the blade, that part ive adjusted out. More that the sides of the fence arent square, like rip cuts on a board pressed against the fence come out as if the blade were set at an angle."

To me these two sentences are contradictory. You are either providing too much information or too little. The term "square" has no meaning in a rip cut. The sides of a rip cut should be parallel to each other. Square means 90deg.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the simple test*

You need to test that the fence is parallel to the miter slot by sliding it over very close and lock it down, then feel along the fence down into the slot to see if there is any difference OR sight down to the slot and see if it's parallel. IF NOT, adjust it so that it is.

Next, measure that the blade is parallel to the miter slot at the front and the rear. IF NOT, that is your problem. 
This adjustment is more complicated, so before explaining that let us know what you find.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The miter slot is unimportant to a rip cut. All that's necessary is if the fence is parallel to the blade. If the fence on the blade side is tilted, then the cut distance may depend where on the stock it touches the fence. If the fence distance is read off a scale on the rail (if you have that arrangement), an accurate measure from where the stock touches the fence to the blade should be taken. 

Many fences are adjustable for the angle they sit on the table. Or, if not, a sacrificial add on shimmed to be 90° can be attached to that side of the fence.








 








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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> The miter slot is unimportant to a rip cut. All that's necessary is if the fence is parallel to the blade. If the fence on the blade side is tilted, then the cut distance may depend where on the stock it touches the fence. If the fence distance is read off a scale on the rail (if you have that arrangement), an accurate measure from where the stock touches the fence to the blade should be taken.
> 
> Many fences are adjustable for the angle they sit on the table. Or, if not, a sacrificial add on shimmed to be 90° can be attached to that side of the fence.
> 
> ...


The fence should be adjusted to run parallel with the miter slot regardless of what position the blade is in. If the blade is not parallel with the miter slot that is a seperate issue which needs to be fixed also. Otherwise when using a miter guage the blade can continue to cut past the arbor center. Two wrongs don't make a right.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

+1 with Woodandthings and Steve, everything needs to be square with the miter slot or you will never achieve quality work. Not only this but it is just plane dangerous to operate a saw out of square.

If the fence is only aligned to the blade it is only half adjusted. Its great to be able to rip, but what about crosscutting and or other attachments that rely on the miter slot.

Paul


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> The fence should be adjusted to run parallel with the miter slot regardless of what position the blade is in. If the blade is not parallel with the miter slot that is a seperate issue which needs to be fixed also. Otherwise when using a miter guage the blade can continue to cut past the arbor center. Two wrongs don't make a right.


Read the original post. The OP discusses ripping. The miter slot not used. What matters is if the blade and the fence are parallel.








 







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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Read the original post. The OP discusses ripping. The miter slot not used. What matters is if the blade and the fence are parallel.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I did read the post. What matters is everything, blade and fence is tuned to run parallel with the miter slot. If the blade isn't parallel with the miter slot, telling someone to tune the fence to the blade is just wrong.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> I did read the post. What matters is everything, blade and fence is tuned to run parallel with the miter slot. If the blade isn't parallel with the miter slot, telling someone to tune the fence to the blade is just wrong.


For ripping you don't use a miter slot. Some saws don't have a miter slot, so it's getting the fence parallel to the blade (for this specific discussion). Why are you arguing a simple fact. Sounds like another one of your hijacks...move on.:yes:








 








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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yep!*



Steve Neul said:


> I did read the post. What matters is everything, blade and fence is tuned to run parallel with the miter slot. If the blade isn't parallel with the miter slot, telling someone to *tune the fence to the blade is just wrong.*



Otherwise every table saw alignment/tune up video posted on You Tube, every owner's manual provided by the saw's maufacuturer and every woodworker who knows what the heck they are doin' is wrong.
Why not just throw out the miter gauge, put on a rip blade, and go merrily along in ignorance, never making a crosscut. Oh, you could adjust the miter gauge so it's "out of whacK" also to compensate for everything else being "out of whack" ... yeah, that makes sense. :no:

Do it right and be done with it, so you can use all the features and accessories that came with the saw and be accurate.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Otherwise every table saw alignment/tune up video posted on You Tube, every owner's manual provided by the saw's maufacuturer and every woodworker who knows what the heck they are doin' is wrong.
> Why not just throw out the miter gauge, put on a rip blade, and go merrily along in ignorance, never making a crosscut. Oh, you could adjust the miter gauge so it's "out of whacK" also to compensate for everything else being "out of whack" ... yeah, that makes sense. :no:
> 
> Do it right and be done with it, so you can use all the features and accessories that came with the saw and be accurate.


Ideally for all intents and purposes that's what I would recommend. But, this specific discussion wasn't about having it all in alignment. It was about a tilted fence. Like I said, some saws don't have a miter slot, and the OP didn't mention one or a miter gauge. Some shops have a dedicated rip saw, and the miter slot is moot.

I didn't mean to ruffle feathers here, just trying to stay on topic, and help with solving a problem.








 








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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Guys....no one is debating that the blade and fence should be parallel to the miter slot, but in theory the miter slot doesn't matter to ripping....let's not worry about semantics and just fix the issue.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ryan50hrl said:


> Guys....no one is debating that the blade and fence should be parallel to the miter slot, but in theory the miter slot doesn't matter to ripping....let's not worry about semantics and just fix the issue.


+1. :yes:








 







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## Chad Holst (Mar 11, 2014)

I'm new and dont claim to be an expert but the guy said:


> Now, i dont mean that it wont make a square rip cut with respect to the blade, that part ive adjusted out.


He also said he has a


> craftsman contractor-style table saw


I have never seen a contractors table saw without a miter slot. And IF his doesnt have one, how did he "adjust it out"? The only 2 things a person could reffereence the blade to are the mittor slot and/or the fence.

True, a person really only needs to have the fence in line with the blade, but what good is that going to do when you really dont have any other refferences to use? That is why several people have suggested to use the miter slot. You start with the miter slot, adjust the fence to that slot. IF the blade is not even with the miter slot, then the blade is in fact out of elignment. Its pretty simple and takes 2 seconds to check.

Slide the fence to one of the miter slots. Clamp it in place when its eligned with miter slot. If your table allows you to slide the wing the fence is clamped to...slide it over to the blade and see if its even with the blade. Adjust BLADE as needed. If your table does not allow that, then put a board against the miter slot eligned fence and cut it. flip the board over and place between the blade and fence...is there a gap/pinch on the board? adjust blade as needed.

You have to square everything off of the miter slot on a contracters style table saw, as everything else is adjustable. You cant adjust a moveable fence to another moveable part of the table and expect it to be correct. The constant is the miter slot. Use it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The discussion is getting off on a tangent. The OP stated that he is getting square cuts, which means to me that his fence and blade are parallel, and possibly parallel to a miter slot. That's not his problem. He asks about a tilted fence, which means to me that the vertical surface on the blade side of the fence isn't 90° to the table. So you all can keep repeating how important (and I agree), it is to have the blade parallel to the miter slot, and the fence parallel to both, aren't helping the OP.








 








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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*we are probably all correct however ...*

The answers are only as good/relevant as the question is specific.

IF the vertical face of the fence is not 90 degrees/square to the table surface, that's one issue, and probably what the OP was about. Either there is an adjustment in the fence head for that, or NOT. If not, then shims are in order for the "fix". An additional face can be applied to the fence that is shimmed behind to get a 90 degree intersection. Having said all that... It don't matter all that much anyhow. As the work creeps up or down on the fence face due to material thickness the amount of "off" is miniscule..JMO. You will still get parallel rips no matter, if all else is adjusted properly. :blink::huh::boat:
My old Craftsman saws had an alloy or aluminum head with through bolts to attach the steel fence bar. Not much adjustment in that system.


Pictures of the issue would end all tangential discussion! :yes:


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

try to find data, either in the owners/service manual or online, to see if your fence body can be adjusted plumb, or perpendicular to the table. many are adjustable by loosening some screws. if not adjustable, possibly you can do some shimming. if not there, than a shimmed auxiliary fence is the answer.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> I did read the post. What matters is everything, blade and fence is tuned to run parallel with the miter slot. If the blade isn't parallel with the miter slot, telling someone to tune the fence to the blade is just wrong.


Not true on a rip cut. A rip cut can be made without the table even having a miter slot.

That is why the actual name of the fence is "rip fence." Please do not confuse the original poster.

George


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

I supposed i should have phrasedd this better. Let me try my art skills:

Normal, prefect saw during rip cut ___|________|___
Blade fence

My saw _____|________\___
Blade Fence

Not as drastic in real life, but you get the point. On wider boards, e.g ripping a 2x4 into 2 2x2's the fence doesnt throw it off too much, but something like ripping a 2x4 into 2 1x4's where theres less surface area on the table, the fence throws thr cut off by a fair amount. I end up almost cutting a triangle


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## rustbucket (Nov 13, 2009)

Can you post some pictures of the fence so we know what we're dealing with? A close up of the handle side would help. Maybe we can determine how to adjust the tilt of the fence.


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

epicfail48 said:


> I supposed i should have phrasedd this better. Let me try my art skills:
> 
> Normal, prefect saw during rip cut ___|________|___
> Blade fence
> ...


Granted the fence should be square but you're concentrating too much pressure against the fence allowing the 2x4 surface to come off the table. Relax a little and allow the saw to do its job. The fence is only a guide.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Gotta luv Ya George...*



GeorgeC said:


> Not true on a rip cut. A rip cut can be made without the table even having a miter slot.
> 
> George


You can rip a board without a fence, a table saw, a miter slot or any other fancy $hit, you just need a handsaw and a line.
NOBODY that has a table saw that uses it on a regular basis, for accurate ripping and crosscutting that I've seen here, on line or whose manual I have read, aligns the fence to the blade, and never uses the miter gauge, not even you. :no:

Technically it IS entirely possible, :yes: but it is a theoretical/philosophical discussion ...it doesn't happen in reality, unless in some third world country with some jungle built saw.

So you win, but there is no prize. Maybe a free cruise around the web.... :boat: to check the whole concept out?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> You can rip a board without a fence, a table saw, a miter slot or any other fancy $hit, you just need a handsaw and a line.
> NOBODY that has a table saw that uses it on a regular basis, for accurate ripping and crosscutting that I've seen here, on line or whose manual I have read, aligns the fence to the blade, and never uses the miter gauge, not even you. :no:
> 
> Technically it IS entirely possible, :yes: but it is a theoretical/philosophical discussion ...it doesn't happen in reality, unless in some third world country with some jungle built saw.
> ...


\
Engineers tend to be very technical. Philosophical is best left to over the bar conversations.

George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> Not true on a rip cut. A rip cut can be made without the table even having a miter slot.
> 
> That is why the actual name of the fence is "rip fence." Please do not confuse the original poster.
> 
> George


That's true a saw doesn't have a miter slot but most do and the miter slot is what we all use to tune a saw. It is also the reason a person can buy fancy tools like this to make a saw run perfect. Otherwise you have to measure against the outside paremeter of the table. Anyway the point is the blade should be tuned to the table not the fence.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> I supposed i should have phrasedd this better. Let me try my art skills:
> 
> Normal, prefect saw during rip cut ___|________|___
> Blade fence
> ...


Maybe to clarify things is this saw anything like yours, model 113.298341 

Anyway I think if you would loosen the screws illustrated at the bottom of the page you might be able to square the fence with the top. Woodenthings would know better. If not you could always shim the fence where it rides on the tract. I would be surprised if there is no way you can't adjust the fence. I have this saw but it's 600 miles from where I'm at so I can't look.


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## rustbucket (Nov 13, 2009)

Using a table saw for ripping where the fence is not parallel to the blade is dangerous. This is where kickback happens. It is irresponsible to give advice on machinery you are not familiar with.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

rustbucket said:


> Using a table saw for ripping where the fence is not parallel to the blade is dangerous. This is where kickback happens. It is irresponsible to give advice on machinery you are not familiar with.


The fence is off vertically, leaning toward the blade. It would just make a difference in measuring the parts cut.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> It would just make a difference in measuring the parts cut.


Yes it would...see post #6.








 








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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Yes it would...see post #6.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is only half of what was said on post 6. Are we starting over again. :laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> Are we starting over again. :laughing:


Not me...another hijack I see...move along..._onward_
















 








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## Chad Holst (Mar 11, 2014)

not everyone is trying to highjack the thread, I think that we simply didn't understand the issue.

I for one thought he was talking about the fence not being aligned with the saw blade. Yes, he said that it was, but that the cuts were not right still, leading me to think it was the fence being twisted to the blade.

His picture above ____I______\_____ made the issue clear. I apologize. 

So, how to fix it? I would guess that there are adjustments, as how would it get out of wack in the first place, unless it was actually bent...which would make me simply think "bend it back". (and hope it doesn't break it)

Really the only other option is to shim a fake face to the saw side of the fence. If this is what you are going to do....Take a piece of material. Raise the blade as far as it will go. Run the shim material down the BACK side of the fence, holding the material flat to the fence. Flip the piece over and attach to the front of the fence. this will give you the exact angle cut needed for a 90 degree angle.


Sorry for the crude drawing...


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Sweet Jimminy Cricket, this thread got way off topic really fast... Addressing a few points:

The blade is parallel to the miter gauge, the miter gauge perpendicular to the edge of the table that faces me, and the fence perpendicular, and square, to that edge. The rip fence is not square to the table IN THE VERTICAL DIRECTION. Looking at it from the level of the table, it looks like this:

_______|_____\___
Where the backslash is the fence. Now, i would post a picture, but its dark out right now, so ill try to get something up tomorrow. The question was, has anybody ever faces an issue like this, and beyond that, how does the general public think i should go about fixing this. 



SandburRanch said:


> Granted the fence should be square but you're concentrating too much pressure against the fence allowing the 2x4 surface to come off the table. Relax a little and allow the saw to do its job. The fence is only a guide.


Much as i appreciate this advice, and good advice it is were i to be ripping a strip from the wide end of 2x4, when im trying to rip say, a 2x4 into 2 1x4's, its not exactly practical, given there isnt a whole lot of surface area on the table itself.

Sirlips: Thanks for the first coherent answer to the problem presented. Only possible issue is that im not certain that the two sides of the fence are parrallel to each other. i did think about taking the angle from the fence with a bevel gauge and copying that angle on the blade, rigging up a temporary fence, ripping a board to that angle, then fixing it to the fence. Only problem is i dont own a bevel gauge...


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Steve beat me to it, in terms of posting a page from an old Craftsman manual (post 27). I have and use an old benchtop, model 113.295752. The manual steve posted shows the fence for that saw. The only adjustments are horizontal - to push the far end of the fence closer or further further from the blade (or slot if you do it that way).

On my saw, the zero end of the glued-on rule is determined not to stay stuck flat. When it peels up a little, it keeps the saddle of the fence from sliding like it should. It makes the fence lean just a hair before the saddle pops off the rail altogether. 

When I got the thing, (CL purchase) the rail itself wasn't in the same plane as the table surface, i.e., the rail was out of up-down adjustment. That's been several years now and I don't remember the symptom, just getting out the manual and dialing it in. 

Then there's the saddle itself. Does it ride on the rail like it should? Is there where wear on the various points of contact that could be throwing it off?

What about the side of the fence away from the blade? Is it square to the table? Asked another way, is your fence square in cross section or could the side toward the blade be damaged somehow?

Hope that helps. When you figure it out, please share. I might have the problem in the future too!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

SteveEl said:


> Then there's the saddle itself. * Does it ride on the rail like it should? * Is there where wear on the various *points of contact* that could be throwing it off?


THis is probably it. I can't remember what it glides on, but I think there were nylon pads on the bottom. See if one is missing... this would tilt the fence toward that side. The last illustration on this page shows the underneath view of the fence head:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Another option if there is so much wear on the fence that it's sitting on a angle the fence could be modified to adjust it. This Jet fence is made with adjustment screws to level it vertically. All that would need to be done is drill and tap the fence to accept a nylon bolt.


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## Chad Holst (Mar 11, 2014)

> Sirlips: Thanks for the first coherent answer to the problem presented. Only possible issue is that im not certain that the two sides of the fence are parrallel to each other. i did think about taking the angle from the fence with a bevel gauge and copying that angle on the blade, rigging up a temporary fence, ripping a board to that angle, then fixing it to the fence. Only problem is i dont own a bevel gauge...


If the back of the fense is not even with the front, then you COULD do it off the front also. I was actually going to draw it up that way, but thought the back would be safer, as you have more material to hold on to. If i needed to rip a shim and use the front of the fence to do it, i would use materail that is much higher than needed and rip into the material but still have something to hold at the top edge of the material, then simply cut of the waste when done.

I wouldnt try to find the angle with a tool, as it will be extremely hard to get it perfect....try this:










Remember the shim doesnt have to be really thin, as long as the blade side is flat to the blade. It also doesnt have to go to a point like in my drawing. This is probably a better way to draw it...









This way it gives you alot of safe material to hold onto.


Good luck.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Me, I'm thinking yikes a-mighty.... 


Obviously something is wrong, but you don't know what, right? If it's stable, and you are sure it will remain that way no matter what normal things you ask of it, then sure.... you could make a new face for the stable damaged fence. But if the damaged fence is unexpectedly _not_ stable during some operation, then you might be needing to make a new face for your face. 

Serious joking aside.... in your place, erring on safety's side, I'd figure out mechanically what's wrong before deciding on a solution. 

Here are pics of mine, and assuming your old fence is the same generation as mine I wonder if you might have ground away the little cast-in bit of aluminum on the side closer to the blade (I point with screwdrive in photos below). Check the ruler on the rail if you have one for being tightly glued down. (I had trouble there.) 

Anyway, I took some pics.... wait for it...


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

OK, here's the pics....


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*nice photos Steve!*

Nice screw driver?  paint can opener? cement drill? bead breaker? 

Serious joking aside ..... why not cement a small pad of Formica on the "low" pad and see if that will square the face to the table.?

Also check the front mounting rail for parallel to the table surface.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> Nice screw driver?



Yeah, that's my baby. Dedicated marking knife for the finest work I do


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It looks like it might take more thickness than formica. My guess a nylon floor glide would be a better fit.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Well, i tried getting a picture but with my crappy camera and the bad lighting in my shop it doesnt show up to well. Now, i hadnt thought of shimming up the pads that rnu on the rails, but to be honest it seems like the amount of shim id have to have under that pad would interfere with the tracking of the fence on the rails, which isnt that great to begin with. Im thinking ill just try to set the blade to the same angle the fence is off by, rig up a temporary fence up to rip that angle to a board and then attach that to the fence. Ill post back with how well that works.


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## pweller (Mar 10, 2014)

First off, it would be nice if you posted the exact model of your saw, as far as I've seen you've only indicated that it's an older C-man contractor's saw - there are quite a few different varieties and a few different fence types.

I own one of the C-man saws shown in a previous diagram, and with that system there is no adjustment for the vertical alignment that you need.

As a previous poster asked, it would be best to figure out exactly what the problem is before trying to solve it. It would be nice to know exactly how many degrees you are off, is this a subtle thing, or is it pretty drastic? Are we talking 1/8" over the height of the fence, or 1/64"?

My guess is that a previous owner may have hit the back of the fence (where the handle is located), and may have bent it out of alignment. This casting is most of what determines the vertical alignment. I doubt that either of the two rails could be off enough to give you much trouble. You might also check the alignment with the fence locked and unlocked, just to see if the locking action is causing you any error. When it is locked, can you shift the fence into vertical alignment, or is it tight?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

The previous diagram posted was actually a dead ringer for my saw. As far as the actual model number, i havent a clue, all the original branding is gone, save for a logo. The fence is pretty basic, t square design, 2 bolts in the top that attach the main body to the t square. As for how far its off, its really not too drastic, maybe a degree or two, just enough to mess with things when making resaw cuts


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

The fence vertical alignment is fixed by the front rail being parallel to the top of the table, and the fence casting that rides on it as already mentioned. It should be possible to skew the front rail a bit by opening up the mounting holes where it bolts to the top.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It seems if the vertical positioning of the fence facing was caused by the rail, or the bracket that rides on the rail, that it would be obvious just from looking at it and having it appear irregular.








 








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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

BTW, at least on my saw, there's a rear rail also. Then there's the tension rod inside the fence itself. I had mine out once. I don't remember if they can be put in wrong, but its another thing to check if you're still stumped. Somewhere I have a parts diagram if you need it


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Maylar said:


> The fence vertical alignment is fixed by the front rail being parallel to the top of the table, and the fence casting that rides on it as already mentioned. It should be possible to skew the front rail a bit by opening up the mounting holes where it bolts to the top.


There could not be much skew in the mounting rail or it would not connect at the ends.

George


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

SteveEl said:


> BTW, at least on my saw, there's a rear rail also. Then there's the tension rod inside the fence itself. I had mine out once. I don't remember if they can be put in wrong, but its another thing to check if you're still stumped. Somewhere I have a parts diagram if you need it


If you still have that diagram id love to get it from you. Im sure itll come in handy at some point


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> If you still have that diagram id love to get it from you. Im sure itll come in handy at some point


The entire manual is available on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sears-Craftsman-Table-Saw-Manual-Model-113-298051-/130524155802


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Getting a manual is a good idea. Meanwhile, this is what I have.... saw model number 113.2957302; fence # 62782; Another possibility is that some past owner overtightened the bolts when attaching an auxillary or tall fence, and smooshed in that face


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## Littledog (Mar 12, 2021)

You guys are funny, everybody is correct with the fence square to the blade. I recently built a 12 inch tall fence that overlays my OEM Jet fence only to find my new fence masks the original fence that sits about 94 degrees to the table, just as the original post. So my slots,grooves and tennons also are cut at 94 degrees where the cut meets the stock, causing those tenons to fit tighter once installed into the mortise.


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