# Craftsman Table Saw Question



## CLR2LND (May 13, 2010)

I have been making due with a power chop saw and hand held circular saw for a while and finally have the space for a contractors type table saw. I purchased a used craftsman contractors saw the other day and will need to pick it up this weekend. I failed to look at the attachment of the top to the base and if it can be separated for transport. I am hoping to separate the the top and base and move it in a minivan due to the cost of renting a truck. Anyone have experenience with this type of work. 

The saw is similar to this one

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ame=Table+Saws&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Thanks


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Hi - Sears has offered a great number of different style saws and models over the years. The one you linked to is new, and is unique. It'd be helpful if you had a model # of the one you purchased, or better yet, an actual picture.


----------



## CLR2LND (May 13, 2010)

Thanks for the quick reply I have attached a picture of the saw They advertised it with model #152.221040 . I have attached a picture of the saw


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would call the person from whon you purchased the saw and ask them if it can be seperated.

It should fit the mini-van without seperation. The main problem will be that it is top heavy and could tilt if you make any violent maneuvers.

G


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The 22104 has cabinet mounted trunnions, so the cast iron top can be removed by loosening the 4 corner bolts that hold the top in place. It's best to remove the fence, rails, and wings first, and be sure the blade guard is removed...all pretty straight forward stuff. Be sure to loosen the bolts to the cast iron top, and not to the trunnions. Also be sure to note the location of any shims used between the top and the cabinet. It's a heavy saw. The motor can also be removed to reduce weight if necessary. 

The leg base can also be easily removed. 

The correct bolts to remove to get the top off:









With the top removed, it'll look a lot like this inside:









The 22104 was the entry level "zipcode saw" in the Craftsman series....22114, and 22124 all had pretty much the same guts with different features. Introduced in 2004. Nice saws...with good alignment, and a good blade, it should cut just about anything you're likely to throw at it. There might be some online manuals if yours didn't come with one. 

Good luck, and please post back once you're up and running. :thumbsup:


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I had to move a 22124*

AS the 6 guys from Sears shipping stood around with a questioning look from my pick up truck and back to the saw on a dolly.
It struck me ..turn it upside down, table top on a cardboard slider and weight at the bottom and slide it into the truck. :thumbsup: If the rails and fence are removed you may be able to do this...the only problem is righting it after you get home but a few friends and beers and you're done. :yes: bill


----------



## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I was thinking of something similar to what Bill suggested. Take off the fence rails and table extensions. Then put it on its back, front or side in the rear of the mini-van. You could leave the leg assembly on that way.

Nice saw, BTW!

Bill2


----------



## CLR2LND (May 13, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies, i think the minivan method might just work. at $300 including the dado set i just couldn't pass it up.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Hello guys. That was some good "upside down" thinking.

G


----------



## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

That's a good looking tablesaw. Contrary to popular opinion in these forums, Craftsman does make some good tools. some not so good, but that saw looks great.


----------



## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

You got yourself a nice deal. That saw is usually known as a 'hybrid' which is a step up from a contractor's saw with the motor sticking out the back. It's cross between a contractor's saw and a cabinet saw. Good luck with it.

BTW, I'm another minivan fan. I've had pickups but always seem to gravitate back to a minivan, even though the kids are 23 and 26 now. I drive the thing all over the country and if I need to, I can camp in it.

Bill


----------



## CLR2LND (May 13, 2010)

After all the help when i first purchased this saw, i figured this would be the best place to come back with a quick question. I have had good luck with the saw and have been making due without the miter gauge for a while. When i purchased the saw the miter gauge was missing the "pivot" screw of the miter assembly. I called sears parts direct and they did not have a record or diagram of the part. I was wondering if anyone had an idea of the size/type of screw i could use in that spot.

Thanks


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Try here*

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...7/0744600/P0607066/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

I don't know which part ( no. 121, for $2.16) you need but if you hold your mouse over the miter gauge lower left, it will enlarge the picture and give you a part no. Then scroll down to find that no and order that part. Simple!  bill


----------



## CLR2LND (May 13, 2010)

Thanks. That was exactly what i was looking for, dont know how i didnt see it


----------



## Norton (Aug 27, 2010)

I bought one just like it in September. It took 4 of us to muscle it into my pickup from the Sears store.
It comes crated in a steel pallet.
It has a cast iron top and cast wings.
I needed to take it down to my basement. I took the motor out of it and my nephew helped me muscle it downstairs. 
Once downstairs we flipped it upside down, and put on the legs. Then flipped up upright-it takes 2 people to do this. Then add the extensions. I managed to do this using my roller stands to get it up to the proper height before bolting them in place. They are also very heavy. 

I suggest you remove the cast extensions, then flip the saw upside down. The legs can be removed then. You might also want to remove the motor. This is a fairly simple job.
BTW, I love mine. It has a better finished top then my 20 year old Delta saw.


----------



## AlWood (Apr 18, 2010)

*Be aware: flowed design of that pin!*



woodnthings said:


> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...7/0744600/P0607066/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=
> 
> I don't know which part ( no. 121, for $2.16) you need but if you hold your mouse over the miter gauge lower left, it will enlarge the picture and give you a part no. Then scroll down to find that no and order that part. Simple!  bill


Bill and CLR2LND: I just want you guys to pay attention to a not so little design drawback of that damn "pivot" part: it is a PIN (that screws into the upper part, but isn't holding to the bar), and it does NOT have a bottom SCREW (it goes for all the 22104, 22114, and 22124 Craftsmans). A difference? -- simple (and pretty bad at that): that pin DOES NOT hold the body of the miter to the sliding bar; it only hold the axis of rotation. The screw with a flat head that would prevent the miter body from moving UP from the bar, is missing (and was not in the design, as you can easily see by looking taht the thing from the bottom of the bar). It is really bad, because during the use of mitre (especially if you want to use a hold-down fixture that comes with those miters), it is creeping up by up to 1/8" or even more, which lifts up your board and makes it wobble as you cut it (and of course screws up the precision of your cut).

To understand what I am talking about, look at the design at any "classical" miter gauge (e.g. any regular Delta) from the bottom of the guiding bar; you will see the head of that holding screw that is missing in Craftsman design. Craftsman design is the same as in many cheap and design-illiteral off-market miter gauges...


----------



## passnthru2 (Nov 6, 2010)

i hope get it all worked out.. digital cameras are wonderful.. 

i just bought a new Hitachi table saw in the box.. store put it in the car.. i took it home in my Honda Fit.!!
it weighed 240 lbs... i got it out without too much trouble.. pushed it out from the inside on my back pushing with my legs.. got it almost half way out.. then put 4 layers of 2" Styrofoam blocks down and slid it out slowly.. rocked it in thru the garage door.. didnt even dent the box.!!


----------

