# I did it! Sliding dovetails to attach slab legs to a slab top



## gideon (May 26, 2010)

What a royal pain in the a$$ but I did it. 

Work got a little light and I managed to pick up 6 smaller walnut slabs for $300 so I've been building small tables with them - experimenting with other design elements to offer people.

I saw this from a youtube video showing a Japanese makers table with this detail. So I tried it. 

Any way, here it is. I'm going to trim the rails tomorrow and begin finishing. Not bad for 4 hours work.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

I really like the design. And I REALLY like walnut!!

Mark


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## Repliconics (Sep 9, 2013)

You've got to be happy with that.
It's totally way! :thumbsup:


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Wow great job


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Nice job. :thumbsup:


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## Travico (Dec 25, 2012)

You are the MAN!! I hope to incorporate sliding dovetails in some of my future woodworking!


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## Jeff Shafer (Nov 16, 2010)

Very nice! How did you cut them?


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Jeff Shafer said:


> Very nice! How did you cut them?


used a router for the slab section and my table saw for the rails.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

in finishing... they aren't as pronounced as I would have liked but its my first time doing them. next time I might use contrasting species.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*really nice look!*

:thumbsup: :blink:

How are the side panels made? The dovetails run wild at the top, but are they part of one side panel or a build up. Are they long grain, since that what it appears? How did you attach the long grain to the vertical end panels which would have end grain at the top where they meet? Photos of the underside?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Well done.


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## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

Very nice Gideon! :thumbsup:


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> :thumbsup: :blink:
> 
> How are the side panels made? The dovetails run wild at the top, but are they part of one side panel or a build up. Are they long grain, since that what it appears? How did you attach the long grain to the vertical end panels which would have end grain at the top where they meet? Photos of the underside?



the legs are 6/4 solid pieces which I basically mortised into the rails. The M&T's fit very snug and I used a lot of glue to make sure there was enough to hold when absorbed into the end grain sections. 

It looks like the dovetails are wild, but they're not. They were specifically placed. 

I blew through this very quickly, I have about 5 hours in it and I forgot to take pre-build photos.

I really wanted to do this for the past week or so. While I was considering how to do it, the main thing running through my mind was:

1. How do I run those dovetailed rails all the way through while keeping the space accurate? By cutting the dovetailed rails on my table saw to avoid router table set up,assembling the base first, then placing it on the top, measuring to where it would look balanced, scribing the lines of the dovetail keys, tape them off, use a straight edge as a fence and plunge router, assemble and then
2. How can I make this a very fast, efficient and strong build in case I get orders for these? Same as above.

So this is what I came up with. 

Here's a photo of how the join looks from the bottom. Again, fast, efficient, strong. And it needs to have a cool factor. I think I accomplished that.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

That's one beautiful bench right there. Congratulations on getting your dovetails to work well. I haven't tried sliding dovetails yet. But when I finally do I hope they work out half as well as yours. She's a real looker too. The bow tie was definitely a nice touch.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> That's one beautiful bench right there. Congratulations on getting your dovetails to work well. I haven't tried sliding dovetails yet. But when I finally do I hope they work out half as well as yours. She's a real looker too. The bow tie was definitely a nice touch.


well there was a crack and everybody ordering from me wants bowties. 

These dovetails needed a little shimming here and there but its endgrain protruding so good luck finding them


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

gideon said:


> ...
> 
> These dovetails needed a little shimming here and there but its endgrain protruding so good luck finding them


Shhh... We'll just keep this between me and you. No one else will ever know.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Shhh... We'll just keep this between me and you. No one else will ever know.


no secret... i found that there had to be about 1/16" play on each slot to avoid jamming and damaging the keys.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

gideon said:


> no secret... i found that there had to be about 1/16" play on each slot to avoid jamming and damaging the keys.


Oh, OK. That makes sense. Good to know; I haven't thought of that.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*sliding dovetails allow for movement!*

They are more than a cool method of jointing the side to the top. I just figured this out...DUH. :blink:

I was looking at the photo of the side/leg attachment and saw what I think is an elongated hole. OK, all you need is one hole to keep things together. You could use 2 holes, but the second hole would be buried under the leg, and you can't get to it. 
My original question was how did you allow for movement in the top if the sides were long grain., and I think just by having the dovetails alone, it's enough. If so, it's a damn clever way to attach things which move at different rates. :thumbsup: Was that your intent, knowing it would solve that issue?


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

I'm not sure I completely understand the questions - it looked to me like a great and efficient way to check movement, combined with a heavy base I figured it would work. This thing is locked together. Its all just wood and glue - no screws anywhere. 

What did you mean by "two holes"?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Check as in prevent?*



gideon said:


> I'm not sure I completely understand the questions - it looked to me like a great and efficient way to check movement, combined with a heavy base I figured it would work. This thing is locked together. Its all just wood and glue - no screws anywhere.
> 
> What did you mean by "two holes"?


It would seem to me a great way to* allow* movement rather than prevent it, since there are no fasteners. Usually a top is secured to the aprons/legs in the center and has elongated holes at the front and rear with "two elongated holes" with screws just snugged up enough to allow movement across the width. This method using sliding dovetails, the top is free to move across it's width with no mechanical fasteners or other restrictions.

Hey, no matter, accidental or intentional, I like the concept and especially the execution! :yes:


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> It would seem to me a great way to* allow* movement rather than prevent it, since there are no fasteners. Usually a top is secured to the aprons/legs in the center and has elongated holes at the front and rear with "two elongated holes" with screws just snugged up enough to allow movement across the width. This method using sliding dovetails, the top is free to move across it's width with no mechanical fasteners or other restrictions.
> 
> Hey, no matter, accidental or intentional, I like the concept and especially the execution! :yes:


Oh that, yeah, when I make these types of tables, I usually use heavy rails and slotted holes in them for the screws to move around in as the piece moves. So like I counter sink with a 1/2" bore, then complete the channel with a 3/8" speedbore allowing the shaft of the screw to move as it needs to.


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## xmas (Nov 24, 2013)

Wow, that looks beautiful! Nice work


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

And she's done


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Very nice work! Beautiful end results. One trick I've had good luck with is to taper the slot front to back, and make the male dovetail with the same taper. Done right (not as hard as it may seem) the parts will be loose all the way to the end, but then snug up tight with no need for shims. I generally use a Formica sample chip taped to one side at the end to offset one end of both the male and female cuts to achieve the taper. No need to taper both sides. Cut the slot first, then offset your guide on one end to taper it with one additional pass. Make the male part as wide as the wide end, then use the chip to offset one end so the table saw or router will taper the matching edge to fit the slot.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Beautiful work, Gideon! I'd like to see some more pictures of the other piece too (the other one shown in the second picture). Do you have a thread on it as well? They sure make a great looking set :thumbsup:


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> Beautiful work, Gideon! I'd like to see some more pictures of the other piece too (the other one shown in the second picture). Do you have a thread on it as well? They sure make a great looking set :thumbsup:



Here you go Steve...

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/splayed-leg-walnut-crotch-cut-coffee-table-58022/


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

4DThinker said:


> Very nice work! Beautiful end results. One trick I've had good luck with is to taper the slot front to back, and make the male dovetail with the same taper. Done right (not as hard as it may seem) the parts will be loose all the way to the end, but then snug up tight with no need for shims. I generally use a Formica sample chip taped to one side at the end to offset one end of both the male and female cuts to achieve the taper. No need to taper both sides. Cut the slot first, then offset your guide on one end to taper it with one additional pass. Make the male part as wide as the wide end, then use the chip to offset one end so the table saw or router will taper the matching edge to fit the slot.


I have to digest this. Love the idea.


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