# Breadboard edge?



## info (Oct 3, 2011)

I watch couple you tube videos on this for my new project . 
I have ? My top is Ambrosia maple with walnut banding 
Top size not made yet maple 63x 15 with 2 " black walnut band 

1st.. Does the banding need to be a min. Size for this project 
2.. When I make this joint for the end Pieces . I see videos drill hole in the
Other edges . Then screw the band to the end grain . 
Can I install the banding . No end screws . Drill holes from top banding thru grove install dowell rods for looks ? Due to , I want to do a round over edge 
Thanks


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The breadboard end is mostly decoration but it also serves the purpose of helping keep the top from cupping. I think with a normal breadboard end your 2" walnut would be sufficient. 

I don't think it would work as well just putting dowels through the mortise and tenon. When you use a screw the hole in the tenon is a shank hole and the screw pulls one side of the mortise against the other side sqeezing the tenon between. I think if you are going to use a dowel it would be better if you made the walnut end wider and make the tenon on the top longer.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

If you are looking for a traditional answer - never screws. 

The center of the breadboard is through pinned and with a bit of glue... Any other pins are through a slotted hole in the tongue with no glue.

Draw boring helps to pull the breadboard tight.

This allows for E&C with no issues. Oversize the bread boards (legnth) and trim after fitting and environment acclimation.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

If I'm using a 2" banding . How deep do I grove it ? 1" or 1/2 
Thanks


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

info said:


> If I'm using a 2" banding . How deep do I grove it ? 1" or 1/2
> Thanks


Lets get on the same page. 

What are you calling "banding?"


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

see if this helps here


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Here is another picture


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

info said:


> If I'm using a 2" banding . How deep do I grove it ? 1" or 1/2
> Thanks


 I believe I would make the groove about 3/4". That would leave 1 1/4" of stock to hold the top flat and enough tenon the breadboard wouldn't feel like it was coming off.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> I believe I would make the groove about 3/4". That would leave 1 1/4" of stock to hold the top flat and enough tenon the breadboard wouldn't feel like it was coming off.


Thanks . I'm finally on the right path now . This top project may start this week or next weekend . 
I got a new planer steel city , still in box . I have rough saw Ambrosia maple . It will get its work out . 
Another ? 
My maple top is 15 "deep . My rough cut about 12 1/2 wide . I will have to glue up . 
I have a delta 6" wide jointer . Now should I cut 3 boards 5 " wide . Keep it all same size ? Or one board 10" then glue a 5" board. . 
Thanks


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

info said:


> Thanks . I'm finally on the right path now . This top project may start this week or next weekend .
> I got a new planer steel city , still in box . I have rough saw Ambrosia maple . It will get its work out .
> Another ?
> My maple top is 15 "deep . My rough cut about 12 1/2 wide . I will have to glue up .
> ...


The best way to tell if you should cut the boards 5" wide is look at the end of the board. If the end grain runs more horizontal it was cut toward the outer part of the tree and would be stable enough to use in one piece. If the wood was cut more toward the center of the tree it is more likely to cup warp and would be best to cut into more narrow pieces. Maple isn't bad to cup warp anyway so I would be inclined for appearance reasons to avoid ripping them if possible.


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## Oakwerks (Mar 24, 2013)

***x


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I believe you would be better backing up a bit.


The design you posted looks nice but has a few concerns for E&C. I don't have time at the moment but will explain later today or tomorrow. There are better ways.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Thanks .
Yes the top will start next weekend . I will post pictures on the maple boards next weekend


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

I am learning so much on this project . I just don't cut , glue and stain .


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

firemedic said:


> I believe you would be better backing up a bit.
> 
> 
> The design you posted looks nice but has a few concerns for E&C. I don't have time at the moment but will explain later today or tomorrow. There are better ways.


What would you suggest?
I want this last a lifetime or some what .
thank you


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

info said:


> What would you suggest?
> I want this last a lifetime or some what .
> thank you


Sorry, I'm working my tail off - slammed with builds!

The problem is with E&C. The table top will experience some movement so what will happen when it expands is a crack at the corner miter. When it shrinks a crack at the tongue and groove on the sides.

The best way to remedy this would be to glue the sides of your "banding" and let the bread board float. This means either the banding stops at the bread board or you make the bread board out of the same lumber as the banding. Ascetically I believe the later option is best. 

You could have the banding continue through the bread board but with E&C the edges won't align after movement.

Is that clear enough to understand? Sometimes difficult to explain these things.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Is this a good you tube video on breadboard end. He uses a dowel rod to hold system together


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

info said:


> Is this a good you tube video on breadboard end. He uses a dowel rod to hold system together
> 
> Video Link: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oDvdfuzk6pU


Yeah, it's fine. Tough to really tell much detail in the vid but it appears his outer tenons are a bit wide for the mortises. 

To answer your question though, overall it's sound.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Perfect . Thanks a lot


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