# new (to me) Jet 1200 DC



## jrcl (May 7, 2013)

Hoping someone can give me some insight on the DC I just picked up from Craigslist. It is a 1996 Jet 1200 2hp that can be wired as either 115 or 230. The color is blue, has the cork-screw-like baffel for the separator and has cloth bags for both the upper and lower filter. Very little wear (almose all the original paint is still intact - no chips, dents or dings) to the impellers. Bought it on a whim for $100 and hope I got a good deal. Needed something for use in my unfinished basement with exposed ceiling insulation. Plan on using it to filter sanding dust from a 6x48 belt sander for both wood and leather, a table saw, and lathe. Any thoughts or suggestions?


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Nice deal for $100. :thumbsup: You'll want to upgrade the stock bags to something with finer filtration.....a cannister is better yet. Run it on 220v if you have it available.


----------



## jrcl (May 7, 2013)

Thanks Scott. What is the advantage of running it 220 versus 110 (other than having to buy the special 30 amp plug and outlet and having it on a dedicated breaker)? It is currently wired in 110 mode but has no cord so I can set it up to whatever I want since I have to buy a cord either way.

Considering a Wynn filter and standard plastic lowers with a trash can pre-seperator. Not sure how the Wynn filter will fit on this though with it having the inner spiral.


----------



## BrandonD (Feb 14, 2013)

If you wire it for 240V then it will run at half the amps as 120V, potentially running a bit cooler and better on the motor life. Because of the lower amperage, your 240V circuit can use thinner (cheaper) wire. Additionally, it leaves amps that can be used by other tools or equipment in your house.

If you don't already have a 240V circuit available and weren't planning on adding one I would personally leave it at 120. Unless you are already pushing the max of your circuits as it is.


----------



## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

jrcl said:


> Hoping someone can give me some insight on the DC I just picked up from Craigslist. It is a 1996 Jet 1200 2hp that can be wired as either 115 or 230. The color is blue, has the cork-screw-like baffel for the separator and has cloth bags for both the upper and lower filter. Very little wear (almose all the original paint is still intact - no chips, dents or dings) to the impellers. Bought it on a whim for $100 and hope I got a good deal.
> 
> you got a very good deal.
> 
> ...





BrandonD369 said:


> ....Additionally, it leaves amps that can be used by other tools or equipment in your house.
> 
> this, IMHO, is the single most important reason for moving to 220v, as the motor develops the same power (watts used) in either 110v or 220v configurations.
> 
> If you don't already have a 240V circuit available and weren't planning on adding one I would personally leave it at 120. Unless you are already pushing the max of your circuits as it is.


hope this helps.


----------



## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

You really good a deal but if you run it on 240V, I'm sure it would be 20 amps (not 30). But it may take a 30 amp circuit on 120V. Generally, the largest motors you see one 120V are 1.5 HP or less. The start up draw on that DC is going to be a bit much for 120V...I think.


----------



## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

my delta 50-850 (1.5hp) is 12A @ 110v and 6A @ 240v.


----------



## jrcl (May 7, 2013)

Thanks everyone for the replies and advice. The basement is practically unwired at this point so putting in a 240 line is not an issue so I will plan on going that route. The casing of the motor lists it as [email protected] and [email protected] so 115v seems a little impractical. Interestingly, the cord that was provided with it (detached for whatever reason) was a standard 15amp cord so not sure how the previous owner ever actually used it :blink:.




> think a lot about adding a baffle to the jet's drum ring. it greatly increases the flow of debris into the collection bag and away from the filter, which keeps the filter cleaner longer thereby maintaining suction.


The existing separator ring is not a continuous cone, but has a cork-screw-like curve to it so not sure if the setup you showed would be practical or beneficial. In my recent research I see that this has been abandoned for the continuous cone style in newer designs. Not sure if it was for performance gains or simplicity in manufacturing.

Now to start figuring out how I want to run the duct-work or if I even want to. I'm only a hobyist so I moving the unit from piece-to-piece or dragging a hose in the small area I am setting up would not be a major deal. Only items I have to collect dust from are a Ryobi BT3000 table saw, a Delta 9" band saw, an old Craftsman 6x48 cast iron belt sander (with only a dust collection port on the 9" disk sander), and an old Craftsman 36" mono-tube lathe (definately need a dust collection setup of some sort for this). The seller included about 20' of flexible 4" spiral hose, a single gate, a single 4" 'Y', two flat collector plates - one large, 12"x12", and one small, 6"x6" (no idea how these are used) - and about 10' of 2.5" spiral flex hose. All the ports on my equipment are 2.5".


----------



## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

jrcl said:


> Thanks everyone for the replies and advice. The basement is practically unwired at this point so putting in a 240 line is not an issue so I will plan on going that route. The casing of the motor lists it as [email protected] and [email protected] so 115v seems a little impractical.
> 
> must be one really powerful motor!
> 
> ...


be careful not to starve the airflow by trying to draw air through a single 2 1/2" fitting.


----------



## jrcl (May 7, 2013)

Here is a view from above.


----------



## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

thnaks. cool integrated baffle. wonder what led jet to stop making it that way?


----------



## jrcl (May 7, 2013)

Online discussions indicate that this baffle design is not as effective as the cone design that is in place now. However, I would not be surprised if it is as-or-more effective but more costly and that is the true reason for the change. 

On a whim, I disassembled the switch to clean out any dust that may have accumulated in it and I am glad that I did. One contact pad on one pole of the switch was completely gone. The switch is rated 18 amp @ 115v and the previous owner had it wired for 115v operation. So, he was running a theoretical 30 amps through a single pole designed for 18 amps. Looking at the internal wiring, my assumption is the initial startup draw is 30 amps and running draw is much lower. The stock wiring from the switch to the motor looks to be 14awg wire which will handle an initial draw of 30 amps but is certainly not appropriate for a continuous 30 amp draw and not appropriate for even a continuous 15 amp draw if run in 230v mode. Since I am not the original owner, it could be that the instructions note that the wiring should be replaced with 12 awg or 10 awg if run in 115v configuration and the previous owner did not follow these instructions. I can't seem to find a copy of the original instructions for this particular model online so I cannot be sure. I'm replacing the switch with a 20 amp 220v industrial switch and beefing the wiring up just in case - 10ft of 10/4 for the power cord and 12 awg for the switch-to-motor wires. Better safe than sorry.


----------

