# Zero clearence insert TS



## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

I have a Rigid TS3650 and decided to make a Zero insert. I did some web surfing and see people making their own, but the majority of them have 1/2" think inserts.

My factory insert is only about 1/8 inch thick. Any 1/8" material I might use to my way of thinking is not stable enough. Maybe I am wrong or not considering enough material?

I made an insert from 3/4" plywood, but requires a lot of routing, chiseling, sawing and carving to get it to fit, far too labor intensive.

After getting it to fit, I realize that the 4 adjusting screws will be threaded into 1/8" of plywood.I was going to use set screws like the original? Again seems to be inadequate? Maybe I am wrong.

Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, input or wise cracks greatly appreciated. JIm


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You can use the existing insert and...*

You can make a thin wood insert to insert into the insert... lol and then back it up with a thicker piece of stock. 
Here's how:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/make-zero-clearance-throat-plate-insert-10147/


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## kkalin78 (Dec 20, 2012)

I have R4512 which has same 1/8 insert. I made several ZCI using 1/4 hardboard, 1/2 ply and 1/2 mdf. 1/4 hardboard is already quite unstable. Thus I think that except steel nothing will be stable enough for 1/8. Personaly I like 1/2 mdf. Although it requires a bit routing it's very stable insert and cheap


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Thanks for the response and link. You get the Einstein award for this one! Great idea:thumbsup:

I would not be comfortable with the support glued in. I know you have tested it, but I will drill the factory plate and add a couple screws. My heart could not stand the stress of the insert dropping on the blade!

One thing I notice with the factory insert is it is not a tight fit. I would guess you compensate for this by making the support piece fit tightly??

Many thanks for sharing a great idea. JIm


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

Yep, I made one of these but I drilled the factory plate and screwed the base to it. I do NOT trust HOT Glue!!! Here's a tip. I made 3 at the same time and glued the 1/8" inserts to the bases so their solid. You can't cut the blade kerf with a 10" blade installed because the plate sticks down to far. Put a 7 1/4" blade on your saw and then cut all the kerfs. Store away the others and you'll have em when and if you need em.


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

I make them for my old Craftsman from UHMW 1/2" stock from Woodcraft. I cut the shape with a flush trim bit using the original as a pattern. Stick in on with good double stick tape. Use a rabbeting bit to cut the recess so it sits flush. I add 6 setscrews for final leveling.
















I have also used 1/2" Corian counter material free from the local counter shop.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

I am happy with this, got the 1/2" plywood support piece screwed on and then started looking for some 1/8" material for the slot. Found an old yard stick that was just the right thickness.

Then I realized one will not be enough! I am also going to need a 45 and one or more for dados. Oh well back to the drawing board.

Thanks Jim


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

I am up and thinking this morning. I am considering making a 2 part insert. The top may be plastic of some type with the support being 1/2" scrap.

I am questioning the need for 4 adjustment screws. I measured the sapce between the support lip and surface of the saw table and it appears to be .205 to .208.

Does trying to eliminate the adjusting screws seem like a practical pursuit? A practical pursuit for someone that does not have a complete machine shop at their disposal!

Any thoughts or ideas how to accomplish this? JIm


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

Jim, I first tried mine without the leveling screws and added them later. As you mention the variation between the lip and the surface exists on most saws and that's why the manufacturer uses them. You don't need a machine shop to accomplish this. I drilled the holes with a drill press but you can drill holes accurate enough with a hand drill and tap.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Thanks Joe

Sometimes manufacturers add things that look nice that have nothing to do with functionality!
JIm


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## TerryB (May 4, 2013)

I have the same saw. I made my inserts from half-inch MDF and routed a rabbet around the edge so they sit flush. No need for leveling screws. Made a dozen or so at the same time


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Looking at the setup it seems that the set screws could be eliminated.

The factory insert is held in place with a clip on the rear and a screw on the front. Have you done something to secure the insert. JIm


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

The factory insert is held in place with a clip on the rear and a screw on the front. Have you done something to secure the insert. JIm[/QUOTE]

My Craftsman has the spring clip that is fine for the factory inserts. For my shop made ones I drilled and tapped a hole that matches the one in the front (see my photo) so they are held down with two screws. The cast iron drills and taps easily.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Joeb41 said:


> The factory insert is held in place with a clip on the rear and a screw on the front. Have you done something to secure the insert. JIm


My Craftsman has the spring clip that is fine for the factory inserts. For my shop made ones I drilled and tapped a hole that matches the one in the front (see my photo) so they are held down with two screws. The cast iron drills and taps easily.[/QUOTE]

With screws at both ends shims can be added if the insert is not level with table.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

On any of the saws that I've made a ZCI, that only had a step for ⅛" stock, thicker stock routed with a rabbet to allow for the step worked just fine. There's not much pressure from sliding stock over it to cause it to break through.

Using a thick buildup under the insert may prevent the blade to be cranked all the way up. Using hot glue to keep it on may hold it temporarily, but if it comes loose, and it falls, it becomes a potential hazard of contact with a moving blade.


















.


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## TerryB (May 4, 2013)

When I described making the ZCI for my Rigid saw above, I should have added that I did drill and countersink a hole for the hold-down screw at the near end. At the far end I glued on a Popsicle stick protruding the appropriate distance for the hold-down tab. Thus the insert cannot pop up out of its opening. Sorry I forgot to mention this before


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

The first time I looked at the picture I did not notice the screws on both ends!

When I did my first insert from 3/4"" plywood I cut a slot in the rear to mimic the clip.

This looks potentially dangerous and time and effort should be put in it. So back to the drawing board to sort this out.

Thanks for all the input, some great ideas here. JIm


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

Jim, A couple more suggestions, then I'll be quiet. (1) put a lot of effort into the first one with all the holes needed and don't use it, put it away as a template for future ones. (2) If you do use wood laminate it with Formica or other countertop material and it will never warp. A local cabinet/counter shop will usually give scraps free. Good luck and show us your finished product


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## sweet willy (Jul 17, 2013)

I use scrop oak. I've had to make only two in the last 5 years. One for ZCI and one for my Dado set. Oak is a much better insert then plywood. Planed the oak to correct thickness. I use the original as my template. Double sided tape and then router it. I then use the original for angle cuts. Oak is your friend.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Dont be quiet, you never know who you are helping!

Solid wood might be a good idea. Planing to the proper thickness does have some possibilities. good idea!

The factory insert is a bit loose in the opening. To compensate for this, I clamped the factory insert to a piece of plywood. I routed one long side half way around the radius on each end. Then I moved the plate a skosh to the other side and routed that side. Touched it up with a belt sander and no play, takes a little tapping to get it in!

"skosh" technical term only understood by people of higher intelligence
. 
JIm


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## reynoldston (Sep 13, 2013)

I have had good luck making mine out of hard wood. I like the looks of the inserts made on some of the earlier post. The only thing is I am thinking of safety and always want my saw blade guards in place when I can.


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

I have the same exact table saw and ended up just buying one instead. It is a leecraft and has the screws in it for making it flush. I was too busy trying to setup my workshop to fool around with making one. So for $25, I popped this one in and was up and running in about 5 minutes.
Leecraft RG-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for Ridgid TS3650 Table Saw - Amazon.com 
It looks nothing like the picture. It is a lighter color ( I like it better than the amazon photo). Let me know if you want a photo of mine installed and I'd be glad to post it.
It was a really tight fit at first and I considered sanding the edges, but I am glad that I didnt because after popping it in and out several times over the past few weeks...it broke itself in and is now a perfect fit and is easy to use.
I really like it and while I could have made mine own for half the price, I thought it was worth the hassle of not making one myself....maybe if I get the freetime someday, I will try to make one just for the experience.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Here is the prototype. I used 3/4" because that is what I had. It is too thick for my bearing guided router bit. It was made as close to thickness of lip as possible and sanded to fit with no set screws.

I also gouged out the end where clip would be on original to hold in place. It is a jamb tight fit with absolutely no play!

This was a PIA project starting with the 3/4" plywood, 1/2" would have saved me some grief. Still need to drill the screw hole. 

I have some blanks to finish, will have to wait for new router bit this one is smoking now. Next time will try to do a two piece. something thin for the top and a support piece.

I also have some odd angles to rip, I am going to experiment with mounting a sheet of something to the top of the saw instead of messing with inserts for a few cuts.

Thanks for the input Jim


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## ecuadee (Jun 28, 2012)

*Quick and dirty zci.*

I have a Bosch table saw with the thin insert. I made a plastic insert that fits inside my existing insert which I think would work ok but I have not found suitable screws (I want flathead screws)available here to fasten it to the stock insert. Some things are very hard to come by in Ecuador. My solution is to run a strip of masking tape along side the saw blade. It only lasts for a dozen cuts or so, but that is often all I need. I was worried about it at first,but I really needed to cut a thin strip and tried the tape out of desperation. I was surprised how well it worked and how long it lasts.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Many times we just have to do what we need to do. JIm


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

I was thinking:blink:, something I should refrain from:no: I like woodnthings idea:thumbsup: but it is one insert and the factory plates are expensive. Making them from blanks seems to take too much effort, well more effort than I want to put into it:thumbdown:.

So dis is what me did:laughing: I simply adapted woodnthings idea by drilling and counter sinking two screw holes into the factory plate. I used 1/2 inch plywood for the backer, cut to be a tight fit side to side. but no worry about the length, the factory screw hole holds it in place length wise. I had a yard stick that was the right thickness for the slot, it is glued to the backer.

Now I can quickly make some of these up and change them out in a reasonable amount of time. I may use ??????? can not think of the name, help me out. The threaded metal things that stick in wood???? Instead of screws.

Whatever floats your boat:boat: and this floats mine. HTH JIm


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

Thanks to the forum I have a usable, inexpensive zero clearence insert. After removing screws to do 45's several times the screws holes were enlarging. I picked up a couple T'nuts and put them in. Should extend the life of the insert for a loooong time.
Thanks JIm


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## OldEd (Jan 14, 2014)

I don't know about you guys... I made my ZCI from a "scrap" of 3/8" plexiglass. I *carefully* cut it to the _*exact*_ width and length of the slot. and *carefully *rounded the ends. Then I drilled and tapped 4 holes for hex-drive set screws for leveling purposes. Obviously they line up with the ledges inside the opening...

I have it adjusted dead level with the table.

The huge advantage of using plexiglass, or some other plastic, is that it doesn't swell with humidity... Following the advice given in a rag which shall remain nameless, I made my first one out of Maple. It fit like a charm - in the winter time... Come the humid days of July...

I had to split it out with a chisel in order to change the blade. Not fun, considering the work I did making it _*PERFECT*_.

The second great advantage is that the threads don't wear out, or seize up the setscrews.

I can now use it a pattern when making a zci for bevel cuts.


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## xmas (Nov 24, 2013)

After searching a lot of threads about this on this forum, I made mine & another one for my dado blade out of poplar (i live in a desert with almost no humidity), cut to length & width, used the double sided tape to stick my old throat plate on and used it to template route my new one with. with the old plate still attached, I used the holes as guides for my drill bit to cut some holes just small enough the self leveling screws from lowes would bite and thread it them selves. I then attached a heavy duty picture hanging hook (about 1/2" wide) and bent it to flat, doubled over in the back underside so it sticks out about 3/4" as a hold down underneath the plate using both nail holes ground out a little wider to accept screws. sanded them down & rubbed some paste wax for less friction. both have served me very well so far, though it's only been a few months.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

If your ZCI is stuck on many saws you can reach in past the motor with a hammer and drive the insert out with a couple taps.

Of course wear hearing protection, unplug the saw, wear safety glasses, do not hit the saw blade with hammer or hand, you get the idea.
JIm


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