# Cut or Laminate first???



## scootac (Jun 3, 2011)

I'm doing a project for work on my own time where I need to cover 3/4" plywood with a laminate. Never worked with laminates before, soooo,,, is it better to cut plywood to size first then cover,,, or cover the whole sheet with laminate,, then cut to size??? Opinions???
Also, best blade to use on a table saw to cut both?
THANKS for the help!!!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

scootac said:


> I'm doing a project for work on my own time where I need to cover 3/4" plywood with a laminate. Never worked with laminates before, soooo,,, is it better to cut plywood to size first then cover,,, or cover the whole sheet with laminate,, then cut to size??? Opinions???
> Also, best blade to use on a table saw to cut both?
> THANKS for the help!!!


Without making things confusing, I would recommend cutting the plywood to size first and the laminate separately. But, leave the laminate larger than the plywood...enough to rout off the edge. I leave 1/4" all around, but you might want to leave more. 

You can use a 60T carbide tipped blade to cut both, if you have only one blade. When cutting the laminate on the table saw, place a piece of 1/4" plywood or Masonite under the laminate against the fence. This keeps the laminate from sneaking under the fence or getting hung up on it.

Contact cement both the plywood and laminate, and you could use a 9" paint roller with an adhesive roller cover (sold at HD). When both surfaces are tacky dry...(you have at least 20-30 minutes for a coffee break using solvent based contact cement).

When ready to adhere the sheet, check both surfaces for any debris. Lay dowel rods (1/2" diameter) about 10"-12" apart to keep the sheet from sticking until you get it positioned. When you have equal overhang all around, gently slide the center dowel out, and press down on the sheet. Then from the center out, pull out the dowels and work the sheet down by pressing down. This forces out air pockets. 

When the sheet is completely down, use a block of wood (like a 12" 2x4) on edge using the 90 degree edge with a lot of pressure to press down the laminate. You could also use a block of wood and a hammer and pound it down. A "J" roller is made for rolling down laminate, but I'm trying to keep your expenses minimal. Then use a router with a flush trim bit and rout off the overhang.

*NOTE* - If you are going to laminate the edges, most of the time they get laminated first.












 







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## scootac (Jun 3, 2011)

THANK YOU!!!:thumbsup:
I thought it would be easier to cut my wood to size first, and then apply smaller pieces of laminate, but wasn't sure. I'd think it would be a bear to work with a 4x8 pice of that! Also, when cutting the laminate,,, face up or down to prevent chipping? Glad you mentioned using another piece under it to cut! Something I would have thought of,,, *after* I messed up!
THANKS again!!!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

scootac said:


> THANK YOU!!!:thumbsup:
> I thought it would be easier to cut my wood to size first, and then apply smaller pieces of laminate, but wasn't sure. I'd think it would be a bear to work with a 4x8 pice of that! Also, when cutting the laminate,,, face up or down to prevent chipping? Glad you mentioned using another piece under it to cut! Something I would have thought of,,, *after* I messed up!
> THANKS again!!!


Cut the laminate with the face up. It will stay down to the table better if you cut with the blade high.












 







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## scootac (Jun 3, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Cut the laminate with the face up. It will stay down to the table better if you cut with the blade high.


THANKS again!!!
Now to check out my blades.....


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## scootac (Jun 3, 2011)

Making s--l--o--w progress on this in my little spare time, but have the plywood cut,,, on to the laminate!
I need 2 4x8 sheets for the project, cut down to 24x32 and 22x24 or close, including oversizing. Can/do Lowe's cut the sheets to size,,, and if not,,, can they be cut with a circular saw? Again,,, handling a 4x8 sheet on the table saw seems like a lot of material flopping all around!
What's the best way to cut it with a circular saw and sawhorses?
Any other tips or advice?
THANK YOU!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Use a carbide scoring tool*

I stopped sawing laminate a long time ago when I had lousy in feed and outfeed tables. I still prefer to score against a straight edge when the sheet is large.
Like this: http://www.bontool.com/product1.asp?P=SCORINGTOOL


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## scootac (Jun 3, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> I stopped sawing laminate a long time ago when I had lousy in feed and outfeed tables. I still prefer to score against a straight edge when the sheet is large.
> Like this: http://www.bontool.com/product1.asp?P=SCORINGTOOL


Do you just score with that or make several passes till it's cut through?
Utility knife with a new blade work as well?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

scootac said:


> Making s--l--o--w progress on this in my little spare time, but have the plywood cut,,, on to the laminate!
> I need 2 4x8 sheets for the project, cut down to 24x32 and 22x24 or close, including oversizing. Can/do Lowe's cut the sheets to size,,, and if not,,, can they be cut with a circular saw? Again,,, handling a 4x8 sheet on the table saw seems like a lot of material flopping all around!
> What's the best way to cut it with a circular saw and sawhorses?
> Any other tips or advice?
> THANK YOU!


I wouldn't let the store cut the laminate, unless they allowed PLENTY of overage. You can carry a full sheet easy by rolling it up, and sticking it in your car or truck. Roll it lengthwise so when it's rolled it's about 12" in diameter by 4' long. Don't leave it rolled too long (a few days is OK) as it can get curley.

Use masking tape to keep it together. Unrolling should be done on the floor or a large area because it can get a bit hard to handle. Be careful how you grab the edges as you don't want to crack it. You don't need to buy a special tool to score and break it. An ordinary utility knife works well, and cut on the color side, using a straight edge and making a few passes. Place the cut line on a scrap of any kind of substrate.

You can even cut it with a straight cutting tin snips, using them like a scissors. One of my favorites is a Wiss.













 







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## scootac (Jun 3, 2011)

THANKS cabinetman!!!:thumbsup:
Having the store make the initial cuts was an option for me,,,, not one I thought the best knowing the 'skills' of some of the people there. I knew I could roll it up and stuff in the SUV rather it blowing around and maybe OUT of the pick-up bed,,, so getting it home wasn't a problem. Glad to hear I can cut it with utility knife or snips. That's what I'll try first,,,, damage should be minimal that way!:smile:
Thank You!


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

The way I cut mine was to roll the HPL under at the saw and push through the saw. Be careful not to bind it in the saw, a kick back is really bad and be careful how you handle the edges as it will cut the dickens out of you fairly easy. Another way to cut the HPL if you have enough is with a straight edge and a small straight router bit.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Edges or sides being laminated?*

I have always cut the plywood or MDF to size first and then laminated. The laminate will overhang the plywood and then cleaned up with a router.
Are the edges or sides being laminated also? If so, you will have to do the edges first and then the top.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Cutting laminate*

I always cut laminate on my table saw. I go with the laminate curved 'up'. This way the laminate will lay against the fence's side rather than try to jam under it. This also means that the face is down on the saw table and the backing side is facing up.


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