# Column-to-beam connection hardware options



## garya505 (Aug 1, 2013)

I'm designing my own patio cover. This will be freestanding, with four 6x6 or 8x8 columns (posts) and two 6x10 or 8x10 beams. It will be about 12'x15' in overall size. I'm planning to use off-the-shelf connection hardware (mostly Simpson), And I'm wondering which type of connection hardware is "best", or at least, what are the pros and cons of each. We have the T and L plates, the column cap, and the heavy gusseted angle to consider. I've attached pics of each to illustrate. I like the look of the heavy gusseted angle, but I can't seem to find many examples of these in actual structures so I'm wondering why they aren't more popular. And yes I'm going to use knee braces, but I'd still like to use the connector with the best lateral force capacity. The T and L straps, and the heavy gusseted angles are rated for lateral force, but the column caps are not.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Rdog (Nov 14, 2013)

Whats "Best" is to not use hardware but instead use joinery. (not what you wanted to hear I'm guessing)

The few projects I worked on that used hardware on timber frames were all custom made heavy steel, I don't think I've ever seen simpson brand of the same robust quality (I'm not doubting they make acceptable hardware for your application, I'm sure it would work for a time) But the right way to join Posts into girts/connectors is mortise and tenon joinery, pegged.

That hardware is for "pole barn" quality building. It may last as long as you need but it will not look as well. I don't know if its because of lower quality wood often used in pole barns (?), but I've never seen an old pole barn that was not pretty twisted.

This is just an old ex-timber framers opinion...use proper joinery.
(I spent some of my best yrs cutting frames, pounding pegs and praying I never fell off the rafters.)


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## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

I agree with Rdog, mortise and tenon joints are your best option. Use two dowels per joint and glue to make a permanent & unbreakable connection. It also looks better than hardware brackets.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You do not say where you live. That is important because you need to know if this structure is going to be subject to high winds or other external forces. You say it will be free standing so I assume you do not live in hurricane country.

George


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## Brian(J) (Feb 22, 2016)

garya505 said:


> I'm designing my own patio cover. This will be freestanding, with four 6x6 or 8x8 columns (posts) and two 6x10 or 8x10 beams. It will be about 12'x15' in overall size. I'm planning to use off-the-shelf connection hardware (mostly Simpson), And I'm wondering which type of connection hardware is "best", or at least, what are the pros and cons of each. We have the T and L plates, the column cap, and the heavy gusseted angle to consider. I've attached pics of each to illustrate. I like the look of the heavy gusseted angle, but I can't seem to find many examples of these in actual structures so I'm wondering why they aren't more popular. And yes I'm going to use knee braces, but I'd still like to use the connector with the best lateral force capacity. The T and L straps, and the heavy gusseted angles are rated for lateral force, but the column caps are not.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Not a structural engineer but once built a cabin for which I had to hire one. The cabin used actual trees for the main posts to support the ridge beam, and we wanted the simplest connection that would meet code. That turned out to be a 'kerf plate', where a steel plate was inserted into the top of the tree (post) and then morticed into the beam. We used 2 bolts in the tree and 2 in the beam, so all you saw was 4 bolts each tree-to-beam connection.
The first image is the can, I don't have a good image of the connection. The second I pulled off Google and it is similar except we didn't have the gap to show off the steel plate- we wanted to see the most wood and the least steel.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You didn't say what materials you were using. Generally with a structure like that the only real problem is how you have it fastened to the ground. You could use joints or a lot of different fasteners to prevent the wind from pulling the roof off but not fastened well to the ground you would soon see the structure leaning. I prefer to set posts 3' in concrete in the ground


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*free standing patio "cover" ?*

Will it be open to the sky or roofed over? If it's open, then no need to worry about any type of wind or weather. If it's roofed over, then wind may play some role as far as lifting off under certain conditions. If you tie it to the posts as you describe, that probably won't be a huge issue. I would not go to all the bother to make mortised joinery, it's just a patio cover. 0 The H-D Simpson Strong Tie braces and brackets I find have a nice appeal, and I've seen plenty of high end timber frame houses where they are used OR hand wrought blacksmith made types. It's just a patio cover...... 0

So, is the 12' X 15' free space OR are the posts going to be inside that? because the span will be less if that's the case. A sketch would be helpful.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Brian J*

That's a very contemporary looking design. What I don't get is why the beams are"floating" above the posts, rather than resting on them????


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## Brian(J) (Feb 22, 2016)

woodnthings said:


> That's a very contemporary looking design. What I don't get is why the beams are"floating" above the posts, rather than resting on them????
> 
> 
> The first image is my cabin, and there the beam sat right on the post, no floating.
> The second image, from google, only reason for the floating detail is because the designer thought it would look cool. It is slightly weaker than if they were in contact. Earlier posts suggested mortice and tenon and a kerf plate is a metal 'loose tenon' into two mortices, so it's similar.


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

I believe he meant draw pegged, not just a peg. The difference is two fold. No glue, hardware etc. needed.
The posts are pre drilled, beams are installed temporarily. Holes are marked with a transfer punch or an auger bit.
Beam removed. Holes are bored in the beam 1/16- 1/8" AWAY from the posts. Beam installed and pegs driven. 
Chamfer the pegs so the peg starts easily in the hole . After the peg exits the hole saw excess off each side. 
This method draws the tenon tight to the mortise. I haven't done timber framing but use this method for other types of construction. 
mike


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## johnedp34 (Jun 30, 2016)

Oh dear, you all put me to shame. I have a side shed made from posts and beams and then sided and roofed. The beams attached with just L plates from local DIY store. Never any problem. However, I would agree that M&T joints would be best.
Impossible in my case as I was roofing and siding existing structure.
Johnep


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

kwoodhands said:


> .....................


reply to a 4 yr old thread
the op hasn't been back since he posted


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## kiwi_outdoors (Jan 15, 2020)

garya505, it will be fine as long as you are relying on embedded posts (or equivalent) for lateral stability of the roof structure.


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## garya505 (Aug 1, 2013)

Well, for reasons I won't go into, the project was put on hold until now. I'm about to bring it back from the dead.


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