# Building a router table



## jeepme79 (Jun 1, 2007)

Since I don't have a router table, and I have all of this 3/4" MDF laying around I figured I would make a router table. I will use the MDF for the base and the fence, and will run to the local lumber yard for misc hardware. Is there anything else that I should consider or watch out for?


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

The only suggestion I would make is to make the top a double layer of 3/4" MDF. You will never have to worry about the top saging. Make the top big enough to hold any work piece that you will be working on. Also while your building the table - figure a dust collection for the router and the fence. My router tables are not really pretty ones, but I do not have any dust at all, and they do everything I need. Both have the double 3/4" MDF.


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## BlockHead (Dec 28, 2007)

I would apply a plastic laminate for the surface, as bare mdf tends to scratch easily and will swell if any mosture touches it. Also, your pieces will glide a lot smoother on Formica or similar. Maybe one with a low shean so it's not so shiny.


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## jimc48 (Sep 12, 2007)

*Router Table*



LarrySch said:


> The only suggestion I would make is to make the top a double layer of 3/4" MDF. You will never have to worry about the top saging. Make the top big enough to hold any work piece that you will be working on. Also while your building the table - figure a dust collection for the router and the fence. My router tables are not really pretty ones, but I do not have any dust at all, and they do everything I need. Both have the double 3/4" MDF.


LarrySch, how did you get the cool effects on your wood - use a torch on it? I recall seeing that done when I had some woodworking done in my office when I was stationed in Puerto Rico.

JimC


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

Yes on the effect on the wood. A small propane torch. And that is where I got the idea. I know a fellow woodworker that was stationed in the South Pacific. He said he could not get paint when he built desks and the such from wood pallets and crates, so he used a torch to burn patterns into the wood. My whole shop is done this way now.

Also as Blockhead stated MDF will scratch. I add Johnson Paste wax to all my MDF surfaces. It protects from any swelling from moisture. I wax both sides and the ends. Do it about each month and it is as slick as a baby's butt. In fact if you push a work piece too fast it will slide right off the table. The scratching does not really bother me as I am pretty careful and if needed, the top sheet of MDF is screwed to the second layer and can be removed and a new piece added if needed.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

I have to loudly second the dust control system. One that actually works would be a nice improvement. I have a Wolfcraft table and it spits shavings and dust everywhere! I am anxiously wanting to build a new cabinet / router table.


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

I have a portable 1 HP grizzly vacuum system, that I move from the jointer, sanding table and router (2) tables. It has a four inch connection and boy does it draw the air. Then on the fence I have a 2.5 inch dust hose connected to that. No dust at all. Also if you look at the photo of my router table you will see a hole just to the left of the bit. That was made for any slot/groove that is made in the bottom of a board. As you know saw dust collect there, but as the board slides over the hole, the suction will pull the saw dust out and as it goes back to the bit helps free any more saw dust that will collect in the slot/groove. Works rather well. I think I have rebuilt the top router table about 5 times getting what I wanted, but will remain the same now unless I build a finished cabinet on the bottom instead of the metal one.


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## jeepme79 (Jun 1, 2007)

Thanks for the tips.

Why is it none of the pics show up?


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

Not sure - they come up on my computer??


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## daryl in nanoose (Feb 18, 2007)

Here is a pic of my router table I built about 5 years ago. The top is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF glued together with laminate of both sides. Its as straight as a arrow and very solid. I made my fence out of MDF to but with humidity changes it sticks once in a while so I will be building a new one with hardwood. I have a full 4 inch dust control to the fence( haven't got around to branching it into the cabinet) with a ton of suction. I have t-track mounted on the front and sides and top of fence. I find my table quite versitile and with a 3- 1/4 HP router has all the power I need.


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## jeepme79 (Jun 1, 2007)

How did you guys build the fence? As of now, I am planning to use a roughly 2"x2" piece of 90deg aluminum, with two separate pieces of MDF attached to each side.


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

daryl - very nice looking table. Looks like it fashion a little after Norms. 
jeep - the fence is probably the easiest thing to make on a router table. The nice thing about it - is the fact that you do not have to fasten either end to the table except when routing. The fence can be at a 45% angle and it will still preform a straight line on your work piece. As daryl stated - MDF is the easiest to work with and preforms pretty dang well. But if you have the incline like daryl said - Hardwood would be the very best. I seem to damage my fence once in a while and the MDF is lots cheaper and easier to work with. You can put a good board behind the MDF and do not have to use aluminum unless you favor it. 
Try this web site:

http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_24.html


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## Lloyd James (May 27, 2007)

Hi, I built a router table that is a little different than those mentioned above. At the time I didn't have the money to buy one of mechanical bit adjustments that are done above the table. I also wanted to use an old model Ryobi 2 1/2 hp plunge router. I but off making a table for quite a few years, since I knew it would be hard to use the 2 locking wrenches w/o wrenching your neck. I saw some plans in American W. working mag. that you can lift the table top like an old phonegraph table top model with a metal slide on the side. Now I could lift the router table top by 2 back hinges and lock it at any angle with a bold going through the base housing and a wing nut throught the slide( like the phonegraph) to lock it at any angle. I know it is not as solid of a design using 2 MDF boards, but it has worked for me. I used a cut off piece of counter top that you can purchase a building store that specializes in counter tops. I left 1 1/2" of lip of the C' top on and but in the rear of the table pointing down. Then I glued and used some screws to attach a rectangle box using 13/16" x 3 5/8" oak board to the formica table top. I also added second wood bannana slide on the opp. side just to lock give an extra lock(wasn't in the plans) to help make the table top and base a bit more stability and to keep the table falling on my arms(which it has, if I don't tighten the right side wing nut enough. The base was made out of 2" x 4"s. Whew, not easy to describe. Still have to make a fence. Just clamping a oak board with a notch like they did in the 19th century. hehe. you never have to worry about the angle of the fence, since any angle the fence is clamped works.


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## daryl in nanoose (Feb 18, 2007)

Thanks, it turned out really nice for me. I got the plans for this from American Woodworker Mag March 2003 Issue #99
I took a few shots so you could get a idea how its built.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hi Daryl
Good looking router table. That is another project I am looking towards getting started on.

Gerry


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## daryl in nanoose (Feb 18, 2007)

Thanks Gerry, I need to redo the sliding parts of the fence but other than that has held up especially well over the years.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

daryl in nanoose said:


> Thanks Gerry, I need to redo the sliding parts of the fence but other than that has held up especially well over the years.


Hi Daryl

If you start making improvements perhaps you can post some pics. I have been haunting the router forum looking for ideas, and there are some good ones. Any major/minor suggestions to make for when I get started? So far I have ordered tee tracks and hardware kits from Rockler, and I need to order miter track from Busy Bee.

Gerry:smile:


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## daryl in nanoose (Feb 18, 2007)

I can not think of any upgrades other than using Hardwood for the sliding parts of the fence. I used 3/4" MDF for the hole cabinet and top mainly for the weight. Other than getting a user friendly 3HP router I can not think of a thing I would change. The original plans did not have the little pull outs for router bit storage, Drawer, so I alterd the plans a bit. I put a #12 Extention coard on the table with a switched plug outlet so I could use it anywhere in the shop.


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