# Over thinking a shelf pin jig...



## TCM (Sep 3, 2012)

I'm building a few bookcases. Nothing fancy, just something I can stick in my kids closets to organize some of their crap. 

I need to put shelf pins in. I don't have a jig, and I don't really want to buy one if I don't have too. 

Can I just take a scrap piece of board, drill 5 mm holes in it and use that as a jig? (I understand that I would have to do some measuring to line the holes up properly). That seems waaay too simple for the way I operate, so i'm sure that i'm doing something wrong. And cheap too. It can't be right if I don't need a $40 dollar tool to do it.

Any opinions?
Thanks!


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

TCM said:


> I'm building a few bookcases. Nothing fancy, just something I can stick in my kids closets to organize some of their crap.
> 
> I need to put shelf pins in. I don't have a jig, and I don't really want to buy one if I don't have too.
> 
> ...


What about using pegboard? The holes are spaced uniformly. Just be careful not to widen the pegboard holes with your drill bit. It happened to me.

Mark


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## TCM (Sep 3, 2012)

That's a good idea, thanks! 

Although i'm not sure if I have any peg board laying around. I'll have to look.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Drilling and making your own is fine. The only thing to remember is to always keep the same end at the bottom. If your holes are off a little bit and you drill some with it one way and flip it end for end they might not be exact and cause the shelf to rock.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you don't have any pegboard around, and don't want to buy any, take a strip of ¼" ply and make a hole jig. Figure out how far towards the inside of the cabinet you want the line of holes, and then add some for structure. You want the spread width far enough apart for the best support and balance.

If you want the holes like 1" - 2" from the front and back vertical edges, cut the strips about an inch wider than that. Mark the bottom of the strip...like "B" for bottom. You don't need a stack of holes, just a group of 3-4 holes for each shelf adjustment...about an inch in height separation.

When drilling the holes, use a new/sharp bradpoint bit. If the cabinet is together, it's easier to do the procedure with the back out of the cabinet. Set the strip flush with the front vertical edge and clamp it with the "B" at the bottom. Drill the holes. Then move it to the rear, and clamp it flush with the rear vertical edge, and drill the holes.

If you started with the left side, take the jig and just move it across the opening and do the same on the right side. As long as the "B" is registered at the bottom of the opening at all 4 places, the holes will all line up, and your shelves will be parallel to the bottom. 









 







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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> When drilling the holes, use a new/sharp bradpoint bit.
> 
> .


Use a depth stop collar on that brad point bit. If you don't have one then add the thickness of your jig to the depth of the hole you want, measure that distance up the bit from the point and wrap some blue tape around the bit as a reference.

If you use the tape method remember that the tape will have a tendency to move up the drill bit as you drill hour holes and the holes will get progressively deeper as you go.

IMO Stop collars are the prefered method. Use this type:

http://www.rockler.com/m/product.cfm?page=10617

I have some old ones that use a set screw that goes straight through the collar and contacts the bit perpendicularly. The set screw in these tends to slip into the channel on the bit damaging the cutting edge and making the collar loose.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jharris2 said:


> Use a depth stop collar on that brad point bit. If you don't have one then add the thickness of your jig to the depth of the hole you want, measure that distance up the bit from the point and wrap some blue tape around the bit as a reference.
> 
> If you use the tape method remember that the tape will have a tendency to move up the drill bit as you drill hour holes and the holes will get progressively deeper as you go.
> 
> ...


Using a stop collar is a no brainer. Instead of depending on a set screw that can slip easily, these compression stops work pretty good.








 







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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Yes, while depth stops may seem obvious to many of us I only mentioned them because I saw no previous mention of them in the preceding posts and I am unaware of the experience level of the OP.

That being said, those compression stops look like just the ticket. Since I'll be replacing the crappy stops that I have can you tell me where I can find those?

Thanks Cabbie


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Found 'em, ordered ' em.

Very cool. Thanks again cabbie!

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32245&cat=1,180,42311,42335


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

If you are going to build an adjustable shelf jig I would make the type for use with a plunge router. Buy far my preferred method. That is of course if you own a plunge router, if not here is a good excuse


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jharris2 said:


> Yes, while depth stops may seem obvious to many of us I only mentioned them because I saw no previous mention of them in the preceding posts and I am unaware of the experience level of the OP.
> 
> That being said, those compression stops look like just the ticket. Since I'll be replacing the crappy stops that I have can you tell me where I can find those?
> 
> Thanks Cabbie


That's a good point. I should have mentioned it. While it may seem elementry, we can't assume that an individual has that knowledge. The compression stops I linked to come in two sizes sold together. A small size for 1/16" to 1/4", and one from 1/4" to 1/2". For 1/4" sizes, I use the smaller one. I think I found mine at HD. 









 







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## bzguy (Jul 11, 2011)

You can buy all kinds of equipment for shelf drilling, right up to a multi-thousand dollar 32mm borer.
Unless you are into mass production, none of this is necessary, and evenly spaced holes floor to ceiling are ugly to boot.
A simple jig made from 3/4" x 3" ply or solid pre-drilled on a drill press to keep the holes perpendicular works fine.
I cut the bottom square and top angled so you cannot possibly use it upside-down.
Doing simple math for placement and drilling 3-5 evenly spaced holes for each shelf gives superior "custom built" look.
You can make your own depth collars out of any appropriately thick piece of wood, drilled and placed on bit below chuck.
I'm all for buying things that are truly needed, this however can get very over-complicated and costly for no good reason.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

make a simple jig with one pin of the right size sticking out. drill another hole in the jig the distance the holes should be from one another.

drill your first shelf hole. stick the pin from the jig in that hole and line up the other hole in the jig on the reference line. use that hole as the guide for the next hole.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

pegboard and this... so it doesn't drill out the pegboard holes. i installed a cleat on one end so i always know which end to reference. 

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5911&site=ROCKLER


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

I use this... I think it's the same as what Chris Curl suggested.


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## TCM (Sep 3, 2012)

I was just getting ready to ask if I could use tape as a stop collar. Although I might just go with a piece of wood. 

Buying the right tool for the job would be wonderful, but I think my husband would choke me if I brought any more stuff home. The router is next on my list of stuff to buy, but well, see the previous sentence. 

I do have another question though; this is my project cubby bookshelf. For the boards that go on the inside of the box, I assume to drill the pin holes, I need to drill all the way through the piece of wood? I'm using 1x12s, so the board is not very thick and I can't imagine being able to drill two holes in those boards without drilling all the way through.


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

Your Boards will Prolly be 3/4" thick. The shelf pins only need to be 1/4" deep. However for the interior uprights I WOULD drill thru holes.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> I use this... I think it's the same as what Chris Curl suggested.


yes that is what i was talking about. thanks for visualizing it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> Your Boards will Prolly be 3/4" thick. The shelf pins only need to be 1/4" deep. However for the interior uprights I WOULD drill thru holes.


If you drill through, back up the hole with a scrap wood where the bit exits, to eliminate tear out.









 







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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

TCM said:


> Buying the right tool for the job would be wonderful, but I think my husband would choke me if I brought any more stuff home. The router is next on my list of stuff to buy, but well, see the previous sentence.


heh, if i was your husband, i'd be right there with you!


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

TCM said:


> Buying the right tool for the job would be wonderful, but I think my husband would choke me if I brought any more stuff home.


The shoe is definitely on the other foot. 

You could do what many of the guys here do.

Get your hubby jazzed about projects for him. A fishing rod rack, a side table for the BBQ, gun rack, entertainment center etc..

Then tell him "well sweetheart, I could build that if only I had a _______.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

TCM said:


> A router is next on my list of stuff to buy, but well, see the previous sentence.


FYI, I have 2 routers I am selling right now in the classifieds section for a song.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't line bore enough to merit buying a machine. All I've ever used is a sheet of 1/4" plywood and a 3/16" brad point drill bit. As far as the depth to drill I drill through the center of a 1/2" dowel rod and cut it off to an appropriate length as a stop.


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