# What is the best tool for cutting into my hardwood floors?



## Travelguy73 (Jul 28, 2009)

Hi all, first-time poster here. I have been wanting to get into woodworking, and finally I have the opportunity to wade into shallow water with the reno of my 1930's home.

I had our return air vent relocated to the floor to get it out of the way of a new powder room. The AC guys did a good job opening up the floor to accomodate the vent, but now I need to expand the opening to install a flush no-frame oak grate (http://www.volko.com/orderwoodvents.htm). Basically I need to open up the hardwood hole, while keeping the subfloor intact for the grate to rest on. 

I am wondering, though, what the best tool to use for this job is. A MultiMaster? A router? I like the idea of the multimaster, but a router might be good because I can dial in a specific depth, and not worry about cutting into the subfloor, correct?

I would like a clean, straight cut so that the grate will rest evenly in the opening.

Thanks very much for any assistance you can provide. I am looking forward to learning a lot more from you guys.


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

router, make a template, use an upcut spiral bit, sharp chisel to clean the corners OR if you are brave :}:}:}:}:} radius the corners of the grille to match the radius of the bit, That wood look neat.:yes:


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I would second the router approach. You can dial in the exact depth needed with ease. 

A suggestion...
Make a wide base for the router so that you don't tilt the router when making the cut. If the cut that the A/C guys made is STRAIGHT then you could use a rabbet bit to make the opening for the grate.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If it were my house I'd use a router as well*

I see that this must be a precise fit, since it's a flush surface. Looks like a router and template is the preferred method. I would make an adjustable template from 2 "L s" instead of trying to the measure and get it right that way. Or if measuring is your strong point it's the length or width plus 2x the dimension from the outside diameter of the guide bushing to the cutting edge of the bit, plus a "tad" for clearance. Make a practice run or 2 until you get it spot on. I would just use a rabbetting or straight cutter. An upcut spiral is liable to splinter the flooring. JMO.:thumbsup: bill


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## Danxt (Jul 13, 2009)

router with template sounds like a great idea guys. I'm just trying to figure out how he's going to hold the template still to the floor while running the router.

you can't screw into the hardwood. There's no room for clamps. You certainly wouldn't want to mess with any glue.
Would double stick tape be strong enough?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Could you not use an edge guide on the router and use the existing floor edge. You run into a problem at the end, but surely there is a solution for that.

A circular saw can also be set for an exact depth, but you run into more chisel work at the corners.

If you believe DUAL SAW advertisements, that would be the ideal tool.

If you make a jig big enough you can have two large friends stand on the jig while you route or saw. Actually the jig does not have to be any thing other than a straight edge. A nice straight board with friends (could even be enemies) standing on each end.

I have rambled enough.

George


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## Danxt (Jul 13, 2009)

I don't have any friends... :-(

If you're good with a circular saw, and have a good finish blade for it, then that would probably be better than the router approach.

... but you'd better be GOOD with a circular saw.


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## Travelguy73 (Jul 28, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> Actually the jig does not have to be any thing other than a straight edge. A nice straight board with friends (could even be enemies) standing on each end.


This idea makes sense to me. Take one side at a time with a straight edge. I would probably use a chalk line to mark the opening and go from there. 



Danxt said:


> If you're good with a circular saw, and have a good finish blade for it, then that would probably be better than the router approach.
> 
> 
> ... but you'd better be GOOD with a circular saw.


My concern is overshooting the corner and leaving a gouge. But if I practice a bit on scrap, I might be able to get myself comfortable enough to do it.

So far no one has come back with the Fein MultiMaster as a suggestion. Would the blade be strong enough? I'm thinking its small size might make it more manageable for precision cuts.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*re circular saw*

My original post suggested CC, but I was concerned the blade would splinter the wood since it's pulling upward at the nose. BUT, if you have a high quality blade and test it out on some scrap flooring you might find that it will work. The problem will be overshooting the cut on the back stroke where the saw tends to pull itself backwards under power. If you have enough room to always cut the forward push this may not be a concern, but better safe than sorry I think and use the router and template. Still practice on some scrap before "plunging" into the actual flooring. :smile: bill
BYW, if you do decide on a CC, fill in the void with some scraps of flooring to further support the saw base and keep it from tipping.
Another thought: make the hole just slightly under size and hand plane the grate to fit precisely. Better that than oversize...now what do I do?????
Another thought: Is this one of a kind or do you have more to do? This all makes better sense with a template if you have more than one!


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Make a router template out of plywood. Make the plywood big enough so that you can rest your weight on it and still have room to operate the router. This way, you position the template, kneel on the template and route. You can also do test holes on some other wood and check the fit of the vent before you do the floor holes.


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## Travelguy73 (Jul 28, 2009)

Leo G said:


> Make a router template out of plywood. Make the plywood big enough so that you can rest your weight on it and still have room to operate the router. This way, you position the template, kneel on the template and route. You can also do test holes on some other wood and check the fit of the vent before you do the floor holes.


Great, thanks! I haven't ordered the vent yet since it is custom, so if I don't have a great first cut, and need to clean it up, then I can adjust the vent size accordingly.  Who know how large this thing will be when I'm finished!


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