# home made friction polish



## jim dort

I once read of and since have used a recipe for homemade friction polish. It is equal amounts of linseed oil, thinner (mineral spirits) and shellac. I use a mixture about 2 oz of each, shaking it well just before use.

Recently heard a variation: using denatured alcohol rather than the thinner.

Rocker has a friction polish that sells for over $30 for a pint. Is it better than the recipe above? Has anyone a homemade recipe for something better?


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## knika

It is called OB shine juice from Captn Eddie Castelin. 1 part Boiled linseed oil, 1 part DNA, and 1 part shellac. I use it all the time.

Jack


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## robert421960

i need to make some of it and try it:yes::yes:


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## cuerodoc

That's what I use too --Shellac, DNA, BLO--for the first coat or two, then any other coats I use equal mix of shellac and DNA.
Dave H


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## Jim Meyer

*friction polish*

I would recomend that you do not mix to much at a time Even stored in a glass jar and metal lid the dna will evaperate, Jim


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## bond3737

I've used that on the last few pieces I have done via cappn eddies advice and on the figured maple stuff that's full of stain and figure it really seems to deepen the tones to a very rich degree without getting rid of the lighter colors. Danish oil and other oil varnish mixes darken the wood too much for my taste. I've also used it on walnut and it looked awesome... there is really no reason to pay for any finish that purports itself as deep penetrating fast drying, blah blah blah. Every finish comes from the a set basic ingredients you can buy on your own and mix to your liking. It's kind of like buying a cake from the grocery store. You can buy the cake or you can buy the ingredients and make your own.... The difference is, if youre making your own you're doing it cheaper than if you buy a premixed finish


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## sawdustfactory

Same goes for the shellac. Buy flakes and DNA and mix your own. Much cheaper in the long run than buying the premixed stuff. Plus you can mix different "cuts", for different uses.


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## Firechic

I use boiled linseed oil and shelac mixed in a 250 mil glue type dispensing bottle with a little cap, mix 4 parts shelac to 1 part boiled linseed oil and apply while spinning with coffee filters, apply 3 to 4 coats, I have never had issues with the mixture drying up but maybe I use if fast enough just need to re shake every tiome I use it as it will seperate. if you check my photos all the peppermills and bowls have that finish.:smile:


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## jim dort

That is a higher ratio of shellac to linseed oil than what I've seen before. And you also use no DNA (denatured alcohol)? I am going to give that formula a try.


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## ChiknNutz

knika said:


> It is called OB shine juice from Captn Eddie Castelin. 1 part Boiled linseed oil, 1 part DNA, and 1 part shellac. I use it all the time.
> 
> Jack


Since the solvent used to make Shellac is already DNA, do you really need more DNA? So far I have only used BLO and Shellac (pre-cut) w/o add'l DNA. Just wondering if it's necessary.


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## knika

I am not sure that it is needed. I will have to try it without the DNA. 

JACK


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## nblasa

Jim,
Thanks for bringing this up. I've been curious for a while but I don't like to ask questions about projects that I may not get to for a while. Everyone wants to see what you do with the advice they give. I can almost hear the collective groan of forum members jonesing for project pics when I ask about something that I'm thinking about but can't get to in the near future


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## Chevhead

Jim Meyer said:


> I would recomend that you do not mix to much at a time Even stored in a glass jar and metal lid the dna will evaperate, Jim


I know it's an old thread but he mentions storing it in mason jars upside down. That way the DNA does not evaporate. :thumbsup:


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## jgilfor

I've been making and using my own for years. This is a modification of the standard, well known and variously attributed to many turners. No one really knows who first shouted it out. Anyway:

1/3 by volume DNA
1/3 by volume pure tung oil (BLO may be used, but I prefer the tung version)
1/3 by volume "hard" shellac.

Variations add some carnauba wax (tablespoon or two of "pure carnauba" car wax works very well for this purpose.

The "hard shellac" is the key to making this finish virtually indestructible after a two week cross linking period. You can purchase the pre-made hard shellac from U-Beaut, but I prefer making my own from 2# cut blonde shellac and hardening additive (http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop...-to-formulate-hard-shellac-for-500ml?vmcchk=1). Alternatively, you may use old fashioned shellac additives such as sandrac (a natural resin). I feel that the chemical stuff works better though.

This finish seems to last quite well on the shelf for me. I mix up a small squeeze container (Rockler and others carry them) as I need it. Lasts a lot longer than you would think. I've used the same batch for several months without issues.

Not only can this make a wonderful friction polish on the lathe, but it work well as a hand rub or brush on finish. Just need to wait for each coat to dry (30 minutes) before adding another coat.

After a few days or so, the finish is set enough to buff (Beall system or equivalent) or take some super fine steel wool to it for a satin finish if you like. After the two week cross link period, this stuff is solvent resistant to the point of needing to be sanded off to repair. This is NOT you father's friction polish.

Occasionally, the mixture will need to be "topped off" with a bit more DNA. This is not rocket science, you can wing it. No need to pull out the burettes and glass measuring cylinders from organic chemistry (I hated organic chemistry!!!). I simply eyeball the amounts.


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## jgilfor

Oh, and you do need "more DNA" to thin out the polish. For application on the lathe, you really do want a thin product. Too thick, and you will instantly get streaking. This is perhaps less important in hand rubbing and brush application, but (and I guarantee you. As I have done a fair amount of experimentation) it is vital for on the lathe friction use.

You just can't use 1, 2, or 3 pound cut shellac as friction polish without thinning with additional solvent.


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