# Outfeed table for tablesaw



## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

I have my first built-in cabinet project coming up. I know I need all the help I can get cutting square pieces of plywood for the carcass so I decided to build an outfeed table out of some left over melamine and poplar I had laying around. I made the legs adjustable to accomodate my uneven floor. It's clamped to the table with some small c-clamps. I can remove it and roll the table out of the way when not in use.

I just got the attached Bench Dog router table extension. It replaces a crapy side table that I got with the saw. It desinagrated about a year after I bought the saw. So my max cut to the right of blade was like 14". Now with the side extension and outfeed table I should be able to cut much larger panels. And I am able to ditch my bench top router and free up more space. It's not perfect but should do the trick. Hope you like.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I like the way you made the legs adjustable. I made mine adjustable, but I have to crouch down on the floor, and turn a bolt I have threaded into the bottom of the leg. It looks like you might have an issue with the leg protruding up above the table top, and getting in the way when making a wider cut? I really like the idea, and may have to modify mine soon!

Thanks for the tip!


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

captainawesome said:


> I like the way you made the legs adjustable. I made mine adjustable, but I have to crouch down on the floor, and turn a bolt I have threaded into the bottom of the leg. It looks like you might have an issue with the leg protruding up above the table top, and getting in the way when making a wider cut? I really like the idea, and may have to modify mine soon!
> 
> Thanks for the tip!


You are absolutely right on the protruding tip. My saw is on my basement floor. The floor is uneven but not so far out of wack that I would have to lower the leg that much. My other thought was to make the same adjustment type mechanism but make a 2 part leg that overlaps and put the knob further down the leg. But for my purposes I think this will work.


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## panhandler (Apr 28, 2011)

I love what you've done here. I have been thinking a lot about an out feed table for my saw. I need a new work bench and was thinking of making it the same height as my table saw and using it as my out feed table

Btw I noticed you have the Rockler sled. How do you like it? I keep going back and forth about building one or buying this one


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

LearnByDoing said:


> You are absolutely right on the protruding tip. My saw is on my basement floor. The floor is uneven but not so far out of wack that I would have to lower the leg that much. My other thought was to make the same adjustment type mechanism but make a 2 part leg that overlaps and put the knob further down the leg. But for my purposes I think this will work.


Great minds think alike. Since I posted earlier, the two piece leg idea has been floating around in my head! I picture an exaggerated half lap type joint, but it would need two knobs to keep it stable, and some sort of channel to ride in to keep it from racking front to back. Probably more trouble than it is worth, and your method should get the job done well.

Also, you should go ahead and drill for some through bolts where the C-clamps are located. A couple of wing nuts will make removal just as easy. Plus, you won't have to worry about the table shifting or dropping during a cut. You would not want your outfeed support to all of a sudden drop out while you are cutting a large cabinet panel.


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## Ryan 4 custom (Jan 28, 2013)

I was just reading your post and you're adjustable outfeed table looks great I need one bad but my space is limited. I want to build one that will fold down if hinged at the table. Of course my motor and incra fence system are in the way. I know there would be a way to do it just haven't quite figured it out. Maybe a couple sets of fresh eyes might be able to help.


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## Ryan 4 custom (Jan 28, 2013)

Can't get the Pic to download. Gonna try again later. Anyway i have a jet special edition cabinet saw with the incra fence system attached. For those who are not familiar the fence consists of two 8'aluminum rails running the length of the saw on front and back with an adjustable bar straddling the rails. The rails sit just below the table top not giving much room to attach an out feed table with clamps or anything. Plus the motor extends from the back of the saw at least a foot. Just looking for a little input.


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

captainawesome said:


> Great minds think alike. Since I posted earlier, the two piece leg idea has been floating around in my head! I picture an exaggerated half lap type joint, but it would need two knobs to keep it stable, and some sort of channel to ride in to keep it from racking front to back. Probably more trouble than it is worth, and your method should get the job done well.
> 
> Also, you should go ahead and drill for some through bolts where the C-clamps are located. A couple of wing nuts will make removal just as easy. Plus, you won't have to worry about the table shifting or dropping during a cut. You would not want your outfeed support to all of a sudden drop out while you are cutting a large cabinet panel.


Yes, I've considered the bolt and wingnut idea. May move to that. I can also leave them on the TS when the table is removed. Another solution the the leg would be to just make the back skirt wider. Then you could have the same set-up but more travel on the leg.


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## Ryan 4 custom (Jan 28, 2013)

Another leg idea, you could make inline adjustable legs by making two 2"x2" legs of whatever length. Put a3/4" **** attack on your table saw and take a1"x1" groove out of the center of the stock. Using ash or another hardwood make a 15/16x15/16" square Dowels to now travel the centered groove. Cap the cut side with 1/4" x2" ply wood. Cut off about 4"of the entire leg and attach the Dowel to the 4" piece only. Now you have a Dowel and foot connected that is traveling the length of the remainder leg. With the Dowel and leg slid together you can now drill 5 or six holes through the leg and dowel and by using a hitch pin you can pull the leg to desired height and reinstall pin. Just a thought. I did it with table i recently built. Works great.


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## Ryan 4 custom (Jan 28, 2013)

Sorry dado stack


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

nice outfeed table. 
i'm getting a table saw complex on this site


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## mark_anderson_us (Jan 14, 2014)

Ryan 4 custom said:


> I was just reading your post and you're adjustable outfeed table looks great I need one bad but my space is limited. I want to build one that will fold down if hinged at the table. Of course my motor and incra fence system are in the way. I know there would be a way to do it just haven't quite figured it out. Maybe a couple sets of fresh eyes might be able to help.


Hi Ryan

Did you ever figure this out? I have a new Steel City 35990c. My incra fence system arrives this weekend and I want to make a fold-down outfeed table. Looking for suggestions about how to attach to saw

Regards

Mark


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Mark, If your interested I have a spare folding outfeed table from my steel city built table saw I'd part with. It looks like this....


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## mark_anderson_us (Jan 14, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> Mark, If your interested I have a spare folding outfeed table from my steel city built table saw I'd part with. It looks like this....


Thanks for offer Ryan, but I was thinking of making one about 4ft deep x 6 ft wide (I have 92" rails on my Incra), which would double as an assembly table as I'm real short on space

Thanks again

Mark


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

No problem.


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## Priusjames (Jan 13, 2014)

Ryan 4 custom said:


> Sorry dado stack


LOL...*that* I have...


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## Dodis (Feb 25, 2013)

*Fold down outfeed*

I have worked up an idea for my tablesaw (Craftsman zip code/Steel City). I saw a reference to the Knape & Vogt folding shelf supports and their high load rating (can't find the exact rating right now). Layout drawing attached.






My plan is to attach the supports to the body of the saw and the outfeed, using spacers to locate pivot so that it will swing clear of the guard/splitter mount. Fine tuning by using washer or shims between the spacers.

The outfeed is going to be 24"x48" melamine, and should catch 80% of what I cut. I can then setup my outfeed rollers for longer rip jobs. When I have my assembly table setup, it is usually too crowded to serve as outfeed, so I have to stick with the rollers...


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## mark_anderson_us (Jan 14, 2014)

Dodis said:


> I have worked up an idea for my tablesaw (Craftsman zip code/Steel City). I saw a reference to the Knape & Vogt folding shelf supports and their high load rating (can't find the exact rating right now). Layout drawing attached.
> 
> Knape & Vogt 206 ZC 16 206 Series Adjustable Folding L-Bracket 16", Zinc - Amazon.com
> 
> ...


Interesting idea Mike. I might borrow that (or some of it). I'm installing my Incra system on my steel city saw this weekend and then I need to build the outfeed table. Do you need to release each side independently, or do you lift past 90-degrees to release?

Regards

Mark


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## Dodis (Feb 25, 2013)

Mark,

The hinges have a release button, so you need to lift just past 90 and press the releases at the same time, so don't use more than 2 hinges!

And borrow away, that is what we are here for, to help each other :thumbsup:.


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