# Exterior Door Build



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

I have read a few posts about how hard it is to build an exterior door so I thought I would give it a try with a little help from friends. Meaning YOU GUYS! I have already started on it, drawing plans, getting lumber fom sawmill, planeing and sizing. It is 1 1/2" Red Oak.

If there is any interest here amongst the forum members I will keep updating with pictures and video if requested. This is my first attempt at such a project and there will not be much hand crafting as I have only partial use of my left arm. Just purchased a bench mortiser for the through tenons.

The door is for my garage/shop and the following pics will show you why it is needed.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Finished dimension for the thickness of an exterior door should be 1¾".









 







.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Looks interesting. 
I'm subscribed.


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I'll be watching.


----------



## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

Interested....


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

If its good enough for Dom, its good enough for me 

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Finished dimension for the thickness of an exterior door should be 1¾".
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Whoever built the garage did not allow enough threshold or jamb to fit a1 3/4" door without totally redoing all framework.


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

If your door stop is nailed on you can pry or off and re-fix it to suit. If not just make your door to suit. Typically external doors are meant to be thicker but these days many don't bother to pay attention to that. 

If you are doing a solid timber frame it will be plenty strong.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jimmomech8 said:


> Whoever built the garage did not allow enough threshold or jamb to fit a1 3/4" door without totally redoing all framework.





DaveTTC said:


> If your door stop is nailed on you can pry or off and re-fix it to suit. If not just make your door to suit. Typically external doors are meant to be thicker but these days many don't bother to pay attention to that.
> 
> If you are doing a solid timber frame it will be plenty strong.
> 
> Dave The Turning Cowboy


The door stop shouldn't have to be moved, as the thicker door will just protrude further out from the stop. If you are trying to line up hinge mortises, and lockset alignment, you may have to move the stop. I usually hang the door, and then set the stop. It may not seem like much, but that extra ¼" adds quite a bit of structure to the door. 

You will have a lot of hinge barrel sticking out from the face of the door, and check to see if the added ¼" of hinge protrusion will affect the rotational axis of the door clearing the jamb. It most likely won't, but will look pretty funky.








 







.


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

So. If you build a door, vs what is there now, I would guess it would be for cosmetic reasons, but you are going to lose the insulation quality of what is there now. Being from Mn., I would think if you are working in the garage that would matter. The existing door looks to be a "class 'a' " standard metal insulated door with a foam core.
It's the overhead door that needs insulated and tightened up, not the man door.

Might I suggest a simple 1 1/2" foam board luan covered with a 2" x 3" frame cut to fit? For decorative effect you can add on various trims. Depending on the foam board choice, you can get as much as R7 per inch, and then the air infiltration around the perimeter is actually more important than the actual door.

Also use tempered insulated glass, upwards to 3/4". Tempered glass is a code requirement in a door.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Da Aardvark said:


> Also use tempered insulated glass, upwards to 3/4". Tempered glass is a code requirement in a door.


How about polycarbonate?









 







.


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Did not get much done today. Had to take the Shop Boss (Picture below) to the Dr. today for her shots and physical. She's not a "Happy Camper" after that.

Thanks for all the info people. It helps.

To Aardvark; The door that is on there right now is an interior hollow core that, if you look close at above pic, is warped over an inch top to bottom. So what I am building now will be a great improvement. Also the window (pic below) is a thermopane out of a side window on a School Bus. I also plan to back up the panals with insulated inside panals.

I included a picture of the lumber that I just finished jointing to size. It may seem like a lot of lumber for such a small door but that is because it took me 3 trips to the sawmill before I finally got to pieces long enough for the stiles that didn't warp after they were planed. The 3rd trip he found a piece 10" wide that had been tucked away in his shop for a few years which turned out straight as a arrow after milling.

The only thing I really got done today was cleaning the shop and marking the mortises on the two outside stiles today. Will cut them tomorrow. Have patience with me, I work slow. Probably get more production next week as it is supposed to be -15 below next week!


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

It is great to be able to build a door. Makes you feel good when completed.

However, my take on an external door is that it should be insulated metal. You can even have a fancy glass window in it if you want, but the basic door should be metal. It is more energy efficient and offers safety advantages.

George


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Cab't

Polycarb has sharp corners but is hard to break. It also doesn't come in insulated glass that I am aware of.
Honestly, in 30 years in architecture and as a Bldg Commish. the question has never been asked to me for residential exterior panes, and I don't know the answer.


----------



## 2lim (Aug 30, 2009)

As an experienced glazier, I recommend tempered insul. glass. Polycarb doesn't weather as nice as glass does. Polycarb may or may not meet code, tempered will for sure.

Simon


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

It's amazing how these threads wander off to different subjects. We are now into "glass". LOL!

Just an update. Used my bench mortiser for the first time today on the door stiles and was impressed with the accuracy of the cuts as you have to flip the board to do through mortises.

Question: Do you reccomend cleaning up the mortises or will that make the tenons to sloppy?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jimmomech8 said:


> It's amazing how these threads wander off to different subjects. We are now into "glass". LOL!
> 
> Just an update. Used my bench mortiser for the first time today on the door stiles and was impressed with the accuracy of the cuts as you have to flip the board to do through mortises.
> 
> Question: Do you reccomend cleaning up the mortises or will that make the tenons to sloppy?


Are you sure you want to wander off and discuss mortises and tenons?









 







.


----------



## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I don't think glass is wandering off, if it is part of the door you are building.
It shouldn't be overlooked from a "code' aspect.
Fancy joinery on a garage man door is excessive.


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

jimmomech8 said:


> It's amazing how these threads wander off to different subjects. We are now into "glass". LOL!
> 
> Just an update. Used my bench mortiser for the first time today on the door stiles and was impressed with the accuracy of the cuts as you have to flip the board to do through mortises.
> 
> Question: Do you reccomend cleaning up the mortises or will that make the tenons to sloppy?


If it goes together and lines up don't touch it

Generally I think every thing fits the context of your thread title, with maybe a few other comments thrown in here and there.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Da Aardvark said:


> I don't think glass is wandering off, if it is part of the door you are building.
> It shouldn't be overlooked from a "code' aspect.
> Fancy joinery on a garage man door is excessive.


I did not mean that comment to be offensive. Sorry it got taken that way. All comments are appreciated. As far as the joinery being fancy, I understood that this was the proper way to insure the door was strong enough to last opening and closing and prevent warping. Correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## mavawreck (Nov 26, 2011)

As a forum go'er for many years, I've noticed that comments tend to be more misconstrued during the colder months post-holidays 

Going to be a nice door. I've got a few to build myself so I'm enjoying watching your progress. 

On the subject of glass, insulation, etc... I doubt you would ever see any sort of difference one way or the other so you might as well just build what you want to build.


----------



## J.C. (Jan 20, 2012)

jimmomech8 said:


> I did not mean that comment to be offensive. Sorry it got taken that way. All comments are appreciated. As far as the joinery being fancy, I understood that this was the proper way to insure the door was strong enough to last opening and closing and prevent warping. Correct me if I am wrong.


Nothing wrong with mortise and tenon, it's the gold standard. :thumbsup:


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

+1 it is the good standard.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Finished the mortises on the stiles today. Told ya I was slow! Will set up the router table tomorrow and do the 1/2" slot for the panals and the haunched tenons.

Have a question for you. The source I am using to build this door suggests that I bevel the outside of the mortises to accept wedges after the tenons are inserted. Me and chisels don't get along to well. Do you think that drilling through the mortise and tenon and inserting hardwood dowells would be just as good or am I missing an advantage that the wedges serve?

Thanks, Jim


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

You could cut a slot in your tenon and put a wedge in that way. Advantage of wedge over dowel is you can 'tighten' the stiles on the rails if there is shrinkage or movement over time.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

DaveTTC said:


> You could cut a slot in your tenon and put a wedge in that way. Advantage of wedge over dowel is you can 'tighten' the stiles on the rails if there is shrinkage or movement over time.
> 
> Dave The Turning Cowboy


Thanks. But how could you tighten it when they suggest putting glue on the wedges when you install them?


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

I would only use one drop of glue on one side only. Then if you need to tap it the glue joint will break and you can therefore tighten it.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*which is it?*



J.C. said:


> Nothing wrong with mortise and tenon, it's the *gold* standard. :thumbsup:





DaveTTC said:


> +1 it is the *good* standard.
> 
> Dave The Turning Cowboy



Maybe it's as good as gold....I donno?


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Cut the 1/2" X 1/2" slot today and set up to make tenons tomorrow.
Wanted to use tenoning jig but saw blade will not cut deep enough so I will use dado on table saw.


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Don't know if your still interested in this thread but here is another addition. Making upper and lower rails and fitting them.


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Yep we are following

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Did not get much done today. Just fitted the tenons and dry fitted the outside frame. Happy though, dimensions are perfect and right on square. Should get window and lock rail in tomorrow. Do you think I should put a mullion in the lower section between bottom rail and lock rail?


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Cut a bit of scrap when assembled and see what it looks like (dry fit of course)

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

How are you making your tenons on the rails? Looking good by the way.


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

rayking49 said:


> How are you making your tenons on the rails? Looking good by the way.


Not sure what you men by making them on the rails. I have a secured stop on my cutoff miter saw so they are all the same length and then I cut the tenons on the table saw. Then I hand fit them with a wood file,Royobi saw, shoulder plane, and sand paper. Thanks for your interest.

Jim


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Cut all the rails and refitted all the tenons as I didn't think they were loose enough. They slide in by hand now. I have found that Red Oak tends to swell up immediatley when you put glue on it making glue up a real b&$(*. I am still contemplateing a mullion in the bottom half. Maybe do that tomorrow along with routering the inside of the top and window rail to fit thermopane. 

I am thinking of making double panals and put them back to back after using a raised panal bit on the fronts of both. That way they will fill up the 1/2" + slot and also hold window. Your thoughts?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Plus 1 on the center mullion*

Also most doors have a bottom rail that's wider by 1/2 again of the rest. It helps prevent racking the wider it is. It's not too late to add/glue another piece on ...now.... :no: Maybe it is based on mortise and tenons. ...I donno? BTW, nice job on the joinery!!


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Probably my last post on this. Frame is finished. The rest of it I am sure most of you have done hundreds of times. Hope this post was helpful to at least one person.:thumbsup:


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

We wonna see it finished and swinging.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## raveon (Dec 12, 2011)

Ditto, we want to see it swinging!


----------



## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

Just thought you might want to see finished assembly. Will wait for warm weather to hang,stain,and poly.


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Excellent quality looking door. A few design features not quite as I would have done but maybe that is just a down under thing. 

Next .... We wanna see it swing. Come on autumn ( or spring in your case )

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------



## Loganville Tiger (Dec 23, 2012)

_Nice Work!!!_

LT


----------



## JakeAnderton920 (Apr 17, 2013)

Nice door. Planned use to be for the front or just an exterior/side door?


----------



## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

Very nicely done!


----------

