# Best Benchtop Surface??



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

I am just curious what would be the best benchtop surface.

I was considering basic plywood sanded on one side but wondered about flatness and roughness of the surface. Then I thought about MDF but that may not hold up real well. Can MDF be sealed? 

What about a cabinet grade playwood? Baltic Birch or cabinet grade birch?

Thanks,
Tom


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

From what I understand, YES MDF can be sealed. A lot of guys are applying a thick coating of paste wax on their exposed MDF surfaces. For resistance to every sort of nasty, my workbench top that is in the works will be 2 layers of 3/4" MDF laminated together, and then a 1/4" hardboard skin topping that off for a total of 1-3/4" thickness. The exposed MDF will be waxed with at least 3 coats of Johnsons Paste Wax in order to insure I don't miss any spots. This way I feel I can be sure I have a FLAT work surface, that won't be easily gouged or otherwise prone to premature wear and tear...


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Tom,
Depends what you are going to do with it. I have one bench that has a subbase made of 2x lumber, covered with a 1/2" sheet of bc plywood. I rebuild dirt bike engines on it, beat it up, etc, and it has held up well. My newer bench has 2x10's and 2x6's for a base with a piece of 3/4" maple-veneered plywood on top, with a piece of oak 1x for an edge. I put a few coats of varnish on it and it is a joy to work on. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

firehawkmph said:


> Tom,
> Depends what you are going to do with it. I have one bench that has a subbase made of 2x lumber, covered with a 1/2" sheet of bc plywood. I rebuild dirt bike engines on it, beat it up, etc, and it has held up well. My newer bench has 2x10's and 2x6's for a base with a piece of 3/4" maple-veneered plywood on top, with a piece of oak 1x for an edge. I put a few coats of varnish on it and it is a joy to work on.
> Mike Hawkins


Hi Mike,

Thank you.

Yeah I guess you could say that it's not really going to be like the classic woodwooker bench. I mean I will use it for quite a bit of woodworking but also as an "all around" garage bench. Nothing real nasty or gritty though. I make my own fishing lures so I'll use it for that at times as well. Just looking for something that will hold up well, be near dead flat and seal up nice.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

*Follow Up*

i guess a follow up question is what is the best way to attach the top to frame? My frame will be wall mounted.

Do you glue up/laminate the top first and then screw it to the frame? Would it be better to screw the subtop in place and then glue the final top surface to the sub top? I don't want crews shoing from the top at all.

Since this is going to be wall mounted I think i am going to have to build the whole thing (benchtop) first and then attach it to the frame using pocket screws from underneath so that no screws show on top. 

I am going to be edging the top with 1.5 inches of oak or poplar and i want to round that over. The problem is that if I attach the top first I can't round over the front to back part of the edging because the router will bump up against the wall. I am going to have to build the whole thing and round over the edging first and then put it on the top of the frame and attach with pocket screws from underneath.


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## bzbatl (Feb 10, 2009)

I'm doing the very same thing as you it seems.

My plan is using MDF because it's cheap and easily replaced - and it's almost always flat off the racks.

I'm laminating the pieces together first, then trimming with a flush bit if needed. Getting a friend to help me lift the 1.5" slab on top of the wall mounted cabinets then making the trim pieces and tacking them in with brads.

As far as your roundover - you could just shave down the last inch or so by hand... you know, how they used to do it before routers were invented 

I'm just doing a slight chamfer on mine.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

bzbatl said:


> I'm doing the very same thing as you it seems.
> 
> My plan is using MDF because it's cheap and easily replaced - and it's almost always flat off the racks.
> 
> ...


Yeah it does seem like we are doing a very similar project..........yeah i thought about that last inch or so of trim.......the chisel idea would certainly work but if it wasn't perfect i would know.....lol.........i thought about just leaving it and calling it "a design element".......but I'd look at it everyday and know better.....


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Here's mine.









2 layers of 3/4" MDF glued and screwed, edged with solid oak then a layer of Formica laminate attached with contact cement. Flush trimmed the laminate then chamfered the edge.


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## bzbatl (Feb 10, 2009)

Are you putting in bench dawgs (New Dixie Workshop here)?

Could attach the edging to the installed top using biscuits... clamp to the dogs.


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## mdeiley (Jul 4, 2007)

I like plastic laminate on top of a core stock. P-lam holds up very well. Glue just scraps off. I can write on it with pencil. When done a little alcohal and the top is clean again. It is also cheap.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Okay i think i have decided to laminate two layers of 3/4 ply sanded on one side and then a 1/4 inch hardwood top layer.

Here is my question. What's the best way to laminate the 2 - 3/4 layers? Just glue and clamp? Glue, and screw? 

What about the final hardwood layer? I have read some people just use double sided tape and then edge around the whole "sandwich." Then you just need to peel the 1/4 layer up when it needs to be changed.

I want to avoid screws on the top surface as much as possible. Maybe just a few in the corners of the 1/4 hardwood layer?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*TOM... now you're cookin"*

"Here is my question. What's the best way to laminate the 2 - 3/4 layers? Just glue and clamp? Glue, and screw?"
"What about the final hardwood layer? I have read some people just use double sided tape and then edge around the whole "sandwich." Then you just need to peel the 1/4 layer up when it needs to be changed."
Answer"
If the bench is less than 24" wide on the top you will get 2 pieces out of a 48" wide sheet. If it's wider than 24" you will need 2 sheets.. if price is a factor.
The final layer .....whether it's 1/4 hardboard/Masonite or hardwood ply, (which I don't reccomend since it's only a veneer thickness away from getting trashed)....I would double side tape it in place, put a little weight on it overnight and then seal it with shellac or wax it. There will be times when a slippery bench top is a problem, and the first time you drill into your laminated top you'll feel like an idiot for not backing up the work piece. "Workbench" by definition is a place to work so you've got to be able to spill on it, glue on it, drill into, clamp onto, drop heavy things onto etc. without feeling like you've ruined it. That's why I suggest a few strips of tape to hold the Masonite in place and when that side has seen better days, flip it over and trash the new side. Masonite is cheaper than dirt. It also comes in 1/2" from the Depot. That's what I use as I said in another post on top of solid core doors. One step work bench top. flat strong and available in various widths 28" 30" 36" and so on.Just my 2 cents worth to you Tom,:yes: bill


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## RStocker (Mar 18, 2009)

I like building a frame attached to the wall from 2x4's. Then run 2x10 across the top and then MDF and then a shet of tempored masonite. I can build an engine on it. I can pound and bend and I have 2 metal vices and a wood vice on it. For woodworking MDF on a heavy frame with Tempored masonite on top works. Glue can be chiped of with a chisel. Things slide on it very well and when you clamp on it it does not dent.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

My primary garage workbench is made of 5ea. 2x6 by 10' long. These are then covered by 1/8 inch hardboard. VERY solid. When I have decided he top has got too beat up or dirty I just take off the old hardboard and put on a new sheet.

George


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## jeffreythree (Jan 9, 2008)

My workbench is similar to what dbhost mentioned. I have a piece 2 pieces of laminated 3/4" mdf. Mine differs a bit, I have a 1/2" piece of mdf with a piece of 1/4" oak ply laminated to it that is screwed on from the underside of the bench. If it gets nasty or banged up, I just unscrew it and slap a new set on. I bet it would work just as well with hardboard instead of oak ply, may have to try that next time.


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## User3489 (Dec 6, 2007)

*Here is what I did*

When I built my log home I had a few logs left over. ( 6" by 6" By 8' ) I made a six legged frame with 6"x6" legs The same for cross pieces. I used 3 peices of particle board ( MDF???? ) 24"x8' and screwed and glued one sheet to the frame. I painted the top with glue and put on the second sheet which was predrilled with a 6" pattern. ( over kill ).
After screwing that sheet down,I glued the 3rd sheet on top. I put two 2"x12"x8' on top and put everything heavy that I could lift on top untill the glue set up. For finish I put 3 coats of poly on.
It is 10 yrs. old and going strong.
On the down side,it is quite heavy to move around.
Tom :yes: :thumbsup: :huh:


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

thanks again everyone.......your input has been extremely helpful.....


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