# Marking your Projects: Branding Iron?



## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

In preparation for the upcoming holidays, I'm looking for a quality method of marking my projects. I have thought of using an engraver, but I just don't have a steady enough hand. 

I was originally leaning towards an electric branding iron that I can "stamp" my projects with before I finish them. Most seem pretty pricey. I was looking for something that says "Handcrafted By INSERT NAME HERE". It should look nice, but not overly fancy. Rockler sells them for over $140, which I feel is way too much. 

Can anyone recommend a good method of "branding" a project? Or maybe a good source to buy something that I can do it with? 

Thanks.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

I just tried a method that worked very well. I printed a mirror image of a logo from a laser printer onto standard paper. Place the paper print side down on the project. Wet it with lacquer thinner and rub the image with a blunt instrument and the laser toner will transfer to the wood. I later tried to scratch the transfer off with my fingernail but I couldn't get it to come off. 

Of course, you could always print onto a clear label and just stick it on.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I have one of the electric branding irons from Rockler. I actually recieved it as a gift last Christmas. It was something I always wanted but couldn't bring myself to spend that kind of money on it. After owning it a year, I wish I had bought it sooner! It may be expensive, but it's easy to use and I find it very gratifying! Go for it!!!


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

captainawesome said:


> I have one of the electric branding irons from Rockler. I actually recieved it as a gift last Christmas. It was something I always wanted but couldn't bring myself to spend that kind of money on it. After owning it a year, I wish I had bought it sooner! It may be expensive, but it's easy to use and I find it very gratifying! Go for it!!!


I have looked Rocklers about 3-4 times, but can't bring myself to spend that much $$. If I could find one for less than $100 I'd probably get it.

Mark


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Can't recall his name, but there was a member here that made them. 
Maybe do a search on it. Or if I can find him, I'll let you know.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Lee Valley sells electric "Handcrafted By" irons for $105. Use your own propane torch and get one for $65.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I got mine from brandnew.net. I got the torch heated one, and after a minor issue (that may or may not been a figment of my imagination) they voluntarily sent me a replacement. 

I'm really happy with it, but I have learned that the simpler the design the better. I got a large tree with hand crafted by Ryan ******, and if found I a bit difficult to get a uniform burn into the wood. If and when I get another, it will be a less detailed brand. 

I would however recommend brandnew.net 100%.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> If and when I get another, it will be a less detailed brand. I would however recommend brandnew.net 100%.


Well it seems there are a few that recommend them so I may look into their irons. I hadn't actually thought of designing anything, but I could add a saw or something simple to my name. I may have to brainstorm ideas...

Mark


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

They have 5 pages of brand designs....

This is the one I got.... http://brandnew.net/estore/shopexd.asp?id=53

It looks great......when I can get it right. Works best on maple and closed grain woods.... 

Oak is a bit harder......


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> They have 5 pages of brand designs.... This is the one I got.... http://brandnew.net/estore/shopexd.asp?id=53 It looks great......when I can get it right. Works best on maple and closed grain woods.... Oak is a bit harder......


I like the design, but since I want an electric on, their prices are a bit much for me.

Mark


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I brand all of my wood carvings with my own, custom-made, branding iron. Maybe 100, so far.
1. 8" and 10" spikes have 3/4" diameter heads. 
2. Chalk up a file and smooth that down, maybe 800 grit paper to finish.
3. Draw your pattern (backwards) on the nail head.
4. Carve that with a Dremel and cut-off disks. 1/16" deep is plenty.
5. I torch the head, but every different wood has it's own "smoke temp."
= = = =
Big deal = my brand is 'RV' (what else?). Was easy to make, carving steel is OK fun, might have cost me a whole $0.75 for the nail and the Dremel cutoff wheels.

Think about it. I can't register my brand because I'm not burning livestock.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Burb said:


> In preparation for the upcoming holidays, I'm looking for a quality method of marking my projects. I have thought of using an engraver, but I just don't have a steady enough hand.
> 
> I was originally leaning towards an electric branding iron that I can "stamp" my projects with before I finish them. Most seem pretty pricey. I was looking for something that says "Handcrafted By INSERT NAME HERE". It should look nice, but not overly fancy. Rockler sells them for over $140, which I feel is way too much.
> 
> ...


I just use an engraver. It may not be pretty, but it is effective and personal. I usually say who the project was made for and the date. Cannot do that with stick ons.

George


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

trc65 said:


> Lee Valley sells electric "Handcrafted By" irons for $105. Use your own propane torch and get one for $65.


My daughter gave me one of the propane torch models last year at Christmas. I think there may be an advantage to these (besides being a little cheaper), no coils to burn out. It does take a little practice to get the heat level right.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> I just use an engraver. It may not be pretty, but it is effective and personal. I usually say who the project was made for and the date. Cannot do that with stick ons.
> 
> George


That's what I use. A dremel works pretty good. I also use a flex shaft Foredom tool with a variable speed foot switch. Either a straight cutter or ball end will work. Each has its quirks for how it carves. But, I agree, for a custom piece, the signing looks more personal when it's custom too. It just takes a little practice.
.

























.


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## spark0506 (Nov 8, 2010)

I have an electric one from Lee Valley. I think I paid around 100.00. It seemed a bit high but I didn't find anything much cheaper. I got the electric because I didn't want to deal with using a torch around wood and sawdust. I always practice on a piece of similar wood before I "brand" the finished piece. 

I wished there was a way to also burn in the date.....now I just write the it underneath the brand.


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## Piper (Oct 8, 2012)

When starting out, I was making book cases and wall shelves. I used the router with a pointed bit to write a full message. We took a shelf down recently and on the back was routered in script,
"Merry Christmas 
******* 
from (me) 
1990". 
There is no question of the event, date, for whom, and from on those pieces. Unfortunately, you need a large flat concealed surface. It does bring nice memories of where we were in our lives at that time.


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## bandman (Jan 15, 2009)

*Branding wood*

Check out Branding Irons Unlimited, they can fix you up with _*anything *_you need.

Bandman


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## yank (Nov 15, 2006)

I got mine from WoodCraft. Electric. Works great but takes a while to get to temp. Less then $90.00

http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=branding iron


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## michigancritter (Mar 7, 2012)

I had a custom one made for a customer of their fishing club logo by these guys http://www.brand-first.com/ They were really easy to work with.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Burb said:


> "Handcrafted By INSERT NAME HERE". It should look nice, but not overly fancy. Rockler sells them for over $140, which I feel is way too much.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good method of "branding" a project? Or maybe a good source to buy something that I can do it with?


In the latest Rockler flyer $90. 
http://www.rockler.com/customized-electric-branding-iron-gift-set-mail-in-offer

I have one of the manual heat ones.

http://www.brandnew.net/estore/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=3&cat=Custom+Irons

It is customized with my signature.

My viewpoint is that if you're going to do a lot of branding at one time, get an electric one. For one or two brands or less a day get the manual one. 

The propane torch will have other uses like your neighbor changing a hot water heater. :laughing:


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

rrich said:


> In the latest Rockler flyer $90.
> http://www.rockler.com/customized-electric-branding-iron-gift-set-mail-in-offer
> 
> I have one of the manual heat ones.
> ...


 
I will definitiely think about that Rockler electric one. I have access to a hand held torch, but I firgured I'd have more success with a good even burn if it were electric.

Based on the # of people using a branding iron, I wonder if people bought the torch-style because of $$ but would prefer the electric.


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

So I recently order one of those custom 2 line branding irons from Rockler and let me tell you the supplier is horrible. After 5 weeks I received my electric iron only to find they misspelled my last name.
So I call c.s and they assured me they would take care of it. Exactly one week later I received the new head only this time they had screwed up the milling process, but at least they got my name right.
I paid right close to $150 for this after shipping and taxes and this just didn't sit right with me so I called again. This time a fellow from the company that produces them calls me and we are talking about these "issues" and I ask why is the second one a different size than the first, by about 1/2" The border was a lot bigger than the first and he tells me when they gang mill them they use the largest border for all of them, meaning the maximum 20 charactes per line.
When they do them one at a time they do it right!? 
His words not mine. Anyway third times a charm. I like it very much and it leaves a great brand. But What a pain in the kister!


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

I've looked at these a few times but have never taken the leap. Being a craftsman I have always wondered about making my own. i wouldn't be able to do the detail of a fancy cnc machine but I am wondering if I could carve something simple in brass or even in a piece of wood then cast it. t's been a few years since highschool casting class but i recall the basics. Another thing to mull over


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Rubber stamp (~$10)


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## J Thomas (Aug 14, 2012)

*Print Transfers*

If you google around there's a ton of tutorials on transferring print to wood. Some require a laser printer and other methods can use an inkjet. I found this one rather simple & straightforward.
..Jon..


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Seriously consider the laquer thinner transfer with a mirrored laser print. It's insanely easy, you can scale it to any size you need, and it is incredibly clear with practice. People ask me all the time where I got my brander from.

Here's an example from one of my cutting boards.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Using a laser printer just isn't an option for me.

Mark


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I carved my own brand. RV 8" and 10" nails have 3/4" heads. Carve the steel with a Dremel and cutoff disks, add a nice wooden handle and I'm done. Very hard to copy should that ever be an issue. I think that I've spent no more than a dollar.
Every different wood seems to have its own cooking temperature. Torch & test in scrap.

I really like the laquer thinner transfer appearance. Can't imagine how easy that would be on a surface curved in two directions. Don't know how that might stand up with a choice of finishes.

My brand, smoked into the butt of a carving, = I'm done.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Robson Valley said:


> I carved my own brand. RV 8" and 10" nails have 3/4" heads. Carve the steel with a Dremel and cutoff disks, add a nice wooden handle and I'm done. Very hard to copy should that ever be an issue. I think that I've spent no more than a dollar.
> Every different wood seems to have its own cooking temperature. Torch & test in scrap.
> 
> I really like the laquer thinner transfer appearance. Can't imagine how easy that would be on a surface curved in two directions. Don't know how that might stand up with a choice of finishes.
> ...


I've applied it to curved surfaces, I've soaked mineral oil in and through it, stained over it, poly'd over it, shellac'd over it, danish oiled over it... and they've never smeared or worn away.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

USMCSergeant said:


> Seriously consider the laquer thinner transfer with a mirrored laser print. It's insanely easy, you can scale it to any size you need, and it is incredibly clear with practice. People ask me all the time where I got my brander from. Here's an example from one of my cutting boards.


lacquer thinner? That sounds different than the one J thomas linked above. I like how yours looks on the board and the fact that it can be finished different ways. Do you have a link for the method?
thanks


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

DST said:


> lacquer thinner? That sounds different than the one J thomas linked above. I like how yours looks on the board and the fact that it can be finished different ways. Do you have a link for the method?
> thanks


I personally use Acetone. Put your logo, or pretty much anything in a word processor, mirror image it, and print it on a laser printer, must be laser. Then ink down, hold it steady and wipe it a few times with an acetone soaked towel. Then before it completely dries take a dry towel and go over it again with some pressure. You should have a nice transfer. It takes a few times to master but it is very simple. Here is where I learned it:


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## davester84 (Aug 28, 2012)

J Thomas said:


> If you google around there's a ton of tutorials on transferring print to wood. Some require a laser printer and other methods can use an inkjet. I found this one rather simple & straightforward.
> ..Jon..
> 
> Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSfj6eiNzew


This looks a lot like water slide decals. For those of you doing this, try looking into clear "water slide" decals. They are even easier than the above method. I have used them several times to customize wood projects with sport logos, graphics, names, etc. 
For repetitive branding , I'd recommend an electric iron though.... I got my iron from rockler and really like it.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

USMCSergeant said:


> I personally use Acetone. Put your logo, or pretty much anything in a word processor, mirror image it, and print it on a laser printer, must be laser. Then ink down, hold it steady and wipe it a few times with an acetone soaked towel. Then before it completely dries take a dry towel and go over it again with some pressure. You should have a nice transfer. It takes a few times to master but it is very simple. Here is where I learned it: Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kj3X0vLWtEY


Thank you so much


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## Chataigner (May 30, 2013)

No-one has mentioned custom made metal badges. These look really fine and are not terribly expensive. I cant find the link at the moment, but there folks out there who make them to your design with modest set up charges. Round ones can be inset with a forstner bit.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Most of this discussion seems to be centered on the ego of the person who built the project. He/she wants a fancy way of marking his project.

What about the wants of the grand children or other ancestors. Do you think that they would prefer something that was personally signed? Or some fancy branding or plaque?

George


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

There is nothing wrong with wanting a nicer way of "signing" your work. Most of us here don't do this for a living we do it for love.
Sure ego may play a part in it, just as it seems to me your ego played a part in your last post George.
Who cares! Sign it with a crayon, a felt tip marker, or heck even one of them fancy brands. I think most folks are absolutely happy to be on the receiving end of something that someone took the time and built with their own hands.
I'll let the future generations worry about how it should have been signed. I'm sure ole Gustav Stickley was kept up at night thinking about this very thing. :laughing:


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I made several projects (including 3 cutting boards as Christmas presents) before receiving my brand as a Christmas gift from my parents last year. I've had my friends and family bring over the items I have made them just so that I can put the brand on it.

I was the best man in my friend's wedding earlier this year, and made them a sign with their names, and the date of the wedding to hang in their home. His future wife didn't believe that I had made it, and they made sure I took it back home and branded it before giving it to them.

I see the "fancy signature" as other people taking just as much pride in my work as I do. I don't need to feed my ego, and I highly doubt that was the OP's intent either.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> Most of this discussion seems to be centered on the ego of the person who built the project. He/she wants a fancy way of marking his project.
> 
> What about the wants of the grand children or other ancestors. Do you think that they would prefer something that was personally signed? Or some fancy branding or plaque?
> 
> George


I see your point here, and I don't entirely disagree. But if I had anything built by my ancestors, I'd rather it was signed with a brand or plaque than not signed at all. And given my handwriting, most people looking at something I signed would assume a 2 year old got at the thing before the finish was put on...


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

As the OP, I will say this thread was not based on ego but rather appearance. After the many gifts I made last Christmas and a couple picture frames, I have been asked by most receivers why I didn't sign them somehow. I have a small engraver but I just can't control it very well. So in looking for a good method to put my name on it I started to look around. If I had access to a laser printer I would consider that method as it provides a lot of options that a fabricated branding iron doesn't. But, I have come to the conclusion that the iron will be simpler and actually look better. My intention is to place brands on the backs, sides, or other somewhat hidden places to not detract from the item itself.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I live in a little village, surrounded by ranches. People understand branding irons although ear-tags are the modern/preferred method for marking livestock.
If & when my wood carvings are large enough, I will sign them on the underside with a felt marker that soaks into the wood. The Kitchen Stick Project didn't leave much room for tagging. My finished steel branding iron is about 5/8" diameter. It makes my mark of my own creation which I can roll into a curved surface. Just remember to carve the thing in mirror image! Not too much guessing to figure out how I learned that one, huh?


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