# Sliding Cabinet Draws



## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

I have a ton of left over plywood from a current project that I am working on and I am looking to use it on something my wife would like.

She requested some slide out shelves for the cabinets. Has any one made these? They look simple, but I was curious about their functionality. 

Do they need special slides? Do they really work? To me i looks like I lose some overall storage space. And in a railroad style kitchen...storage is at a premium. 

Here is a pic in case any one is wondering. 
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3552/3425345462_2b2f00aaa7.jpg


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

My wife insisted on them when we built this house. Would never give them up. Yes, you lose approximately 96 square inches per drawer. That's the price you pay to be able to get at the stuff on the back of the shelf without taking everything out while you are on your knees.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

You can get "full extension" drawer slides which should bring the back of the drawer even with the front of the cabinet.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16979

I have also seen over extension slides but never used them.. kinda spendy:smile:
http://woodworking.rockler.com/hardware/Over-Extension-Drawer-Slides


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I'm thinking of doing the same thing on some kitchen cabinets. This is where Euro style cabinets would be an advantage. Wider shelves.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Slide outs, or drawers behind doors may not lose space, but make space more available. I don't consider space lost, but more accessible. For instance in the kitchen below, there are pot and pan drawers and pot lid slide outs. Usually these items are hard to get to and requires the opening to be reached into and items sifted through. 

Even with fixed or adjustable shelving, there is space that just can't be used. Frameless cabinets make installing drawer slides much easier, and there's no lost space by having to clear the edge of the face frame. Drawer slide mechanisms have to be installed to clear hinge locations. Blum makes a zero clearance hinge to allow a slide out to clear the edge of the door when the door is at 90°.
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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

Thanks every one for the help.

I measured the depth of the cabinets and the front of the face frames are just under 24". Not to mention we have partial inset doors (ugh!). Looks like I'll be purchasing 22" slides.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

liquid6 said:


> Thanks every one for the help.
> 
> I measured the depth of the cabinets and the front of the face frames are just under 24". Not to mention we have partial inset doors (ugh!). Looks like I'll be purchasing 22" slides.


You will have to install build out strips to carry the slides, to clear the doors/hinges. Set the door at 90°, and measure across the opening. If you use full extension slides that require ½" space on both sides, your drawer measurement should be 1" plus 1/16" smaller than that measurement. IOW allow 17/16" smaller than the opening for the drawer outside measurement.








 







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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Yep... made a bunch of them for my wife, MIL, mom, aunt, and a few friends.

I have found that it is easiest to make each drawer with its own separate base, so that they actually work by themselves before they are even installed. I then install the lower drawers, and then all you have to do is cut 4 risers the same size (one for each corner), to install the upper drawers. Tack the risers in, and they will hold the drawer "base" at whatever height you need to install it permanently, and then slide all the drawers in.

As far as hardware goes, I just bought these types of slides from Menards, and no one has complained about them not being full extension. These full extension slides are almost as cheap, if you are willing to wait for mail order. the full extension also take alot more weight (100#). Thanks to cabinetman for pointing me in the direction for the full extension slides.

here are a couple pics that of ones that I installed.


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## kreuzie (Jan 10, 2008)

I use full extension plus 1", Knape & Vogt #8405, from Woodworkers Hardware. When you build a spacer to fill the space from the inside of the cabinet side to the inside edge of the face frame, add about 1/4" - 3/8" to its thickness so that the shelf doesn't hit the edge of the open door when it's pulled out. (DAMHIKT).


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