# muttered corners



## purplenurple (Dec 15, 2013)

I am building a shadow box. Where my sides meet I'm going to have two 45° angles meeting. I don't want to use nails or screws how do I make them join tightly and hold solid after glue dries. Is thus the best type corner to use on a box frame


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I f you meant mitered corners, a number of earlier threads on how to reinforce.

One example.

Woodnthings has good pictures in his post #16

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/best-way-reinforce-long-miter-joints-42434/

A thread showing a jig to cut the grooves for the length spline.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/spline-miter-joints-44021/

A thread showing a jig to cut grooves across the joint.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/splined-frames-jig-44889/


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

On a shadow box, I think I would be inclined to reinforce the corners with corner blocks.... small, triangular strips glued to the inside corners and running the depth of the box. While visible, they wouldn't be so large as to be intrusive but would add a lot of strength to the box. The strongest, IMO, would be to use a back on the box.:smile:


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

purplenurple said:


> I am building a shadow box. Where my sides meet I'm going to have two 45° angles meeting. I don't want to use nails or screws how do I make them join tightly and hold solid after glue dries. Is thus the best type corner to use on a box frame


45 not that good for hold, just cut a couple splines for each corner and sand down flush , that would re-inforse the corners


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

On shadow boxes, I make the back my primary structural member; usually 1/2" plywood, sometimes 3/4". The back carries any shelving and the sides are supported by full rabbets, especially with impossibly skinny sides. I've made some that feather out to 1/8", on others I've used splines, both long and cross.


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## purplenurple (Dec 15, 2013)

I've opted with the splines three to a corner. And will utilize the corner blocks. My sides are 5/8" and my back is 1/8" I will add cork board covered with felt so I went with 1/8 to keep my depth. Plus I'm adding a wireless light to the inside top. I'm making it out of purple heart. I want to bring out the natural color. I've purchased some really high grit paper to get it super smooth sheetrock sand paper up to 2000 grit is this ok? Also any suggestions for lacquer to cover ut. And how might I add my wood strip that holds in the glass with nails?


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## purplenurple (Dec 15, 2013)

Also the saw blade left that o so noticible notched groove in the spline track how do i flatten it out if its just 1/8" i have no putty and want that tight no holes


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

purplenurple said:


> Also the saw blade left that o so noticible notched groove in the spline track how do i flatten it out if its just 1/8" i have no putty and want that tight no holes


 If you can find a flat wood file that will fit you can clean it up.


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

In the future, use a FTG (flat top grind ) found on most 18-24 tooth rip blades.


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