# Titebond vs. Epoxy with Filler



## twking83 (Sep 2, 2013)

I have a joint I used Titebond II on and realized afterwards that the fit wasn't tight. The joint came apart. It is my understanding that wood glue soaks in deep and thus you can't use it to re-glue the joint. Does anyone have any experience with using epoxy with a filler in a situation such as this? Any other recommendations?


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

In what type of joint?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

twkin83 said:


> I have a joint I used Titebond II on and realized afterwards that the fit wasn't tight. The joint came apart. It is my understanding that wood glue soaks in deep and thus you can't use it to re-glue the joint. Does anyone have any experience with using epoxy with a filler in a situation such as this? Any other recommendations?


You are correct in that epoxy is better for a reglue however it would be better if there was something you could do to make the joint fit better before you reglue it.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*what type of joint? X 2*



twkin83 said:


> I have a joint I used Titebond II on and realized afterwards that the fit wasn't tight. The joint came apart. It is my understanding that wood glue soaks in deep and thus you can't use it to re-glue the joint. Does anyone have any experience with using epoxy with a filler in a situation such as this? Any other recommendations?


A mortise and tenon can be shimmed, a round dowel can be sleeved, a hole can be filled/plugged and rebored. Mixing PVA and epoxy may not work. You can heat a PVA joint with a hair dryer and it will release it's bond. Here's a good description of all the Titebond products. There are different products for loose fitting applications.
http://quality-woodworking-tools.com/tools/Titebond-Wood-Glues.html


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Generally, it would help to see the application to offer a suggestion. Epoxy as an adhesive works best when there is a gap of sorts, as it needs some thickness to be effective. Just heating and separating the parts doesn't present the joint to be free of the existing glue. Trying to remove it will likely change whatever fit was there initially.











 







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## twking83 (Sep 2, 2013)

*Thanks and a little more info*

Thanks to all for your quick responses. A little more info for the stream. I am building a cedar strip canoe and the joint I am glueing is the stem. I got a good fit on most of it, but the last 2-3 inches did not. I was working a bit blind and really should have held up - too much of a hurry. So imagine 3/4" wide X 1/4" strips, standing vertically with one side beveled to lay against the other. Glue them up, trim off the excess of one side and then work it to a nicer look with a rasp. I can get the strips to fit together with clamps - I just didn't do so the first time.


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