# Router table?



## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

I'm limited on space being that I have an apartment garage in which my wife's car has to fit. Like to make a router table none the less. I've considered a design that is hung from the studs and swings down when not in use. I've looked at table top versions as well as an extension to my table saw.
For those of you who have already built your router table what are the benefits and drawbacks of what you have?


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Whether you build a table and stand or set up a hinge table to the wall or even add to your table saw is simply a preference. What is important (or I should say "very" important), is the top. I built a whole cabinet last year but I have a 24 X 24 dedicated workshop. I toyed with the idea of building my own top and did lots of research as to size, material, etc. etc. I came to the conclusion that it was more efficient to buy a manufactured table top and opted for a Rockler model. 

The table top needs to be precise, strong and versatile. Strength and precision are manufactured terms. Versatility are the options you chose. I can't remember the name of the material my top is made off, but I do know it will not sag after years of holding a router. I did chose to have an installed T - track and it was machined into my top,thus it is precise. The plate also fits precisely into my top Besides the T track, I also chose a lift for my top. These are the options but worth the extra money. 

The final decision is yours'! Weigh the cost, time, and probable outcome. Good luck and keep us posted!


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## mveach (Jul 3, 2010)

I recently saw a neat setup. it was just the router table top and it attached to the top of a Workmate clamp table.


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

I use both a standalone setup, as well as a extension wing on my tablesaw. Personally, I prefer a standalone setup. It always seems like I need the full capacity of my saw when I have it setup for a router operation. It is handy to have both when I am doing cope and stick doors.

BernieL's advise on accuracy and rigidity is excellent. I would also recommend that you choose one of the standard plate sizes. If you need it in the future, it is easy to have multiple routers, or at least router bases, prepared for the table.


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

Well, I found an old table by the dumpster. I think it would make a nice fold down work bench. I'll make a cutout for the router insert in that. I'm trying to figure out if I want to make my own insert. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade, so I'm very comfortable working with aluminum. I found a piece of 10x12 1/4 inch aluminum for $15. Shipping is $10, so I might buy two and bore out two different size holes so I don't have to bother with inserts.


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

Here is the table. I also found a piece of somewhat warped 1/4" UHMW (I think) plastic lying about. I'm not sure if I used contact cement that the plastic would stay in place, so I may just sand and then urethane the top of the table.


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

If you want a router table cheap: If you have a shop in your area that makes kitchen countertops the sink cut outs are usually thrown away or sold cheap. A full size sink cut out is 21-1/2" X 31-1/2" more than enough for a router table. You can customize it with T Track or whatever suits you. If you can get two glue and screw them together for a 1-1/2" top that will never warp. Do not use anything that even slightly warped. I have the Rockler top like Bernie but sometimes need an additional set up so I made an extra one. Fortunately I have a counter top shop on my street and visit their dumpster daily.


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

Joeb41 said:


> If you want a router table cheap: If you have a shop in your area that makes kitchen countertops the sink cut outs are usually thrown away or sold cheap. A full size sink cut out is 21-1/2" X 31-1/2" more than enough for a router table. You can customize it with T Track or whatever suits you. If you can get two glue and screw them together for a 1-1/2" top that will never warp. Do not use anything that even slightly warped. I have the Rockler top like Bernie but sometimes need an additional set up so I made an extra one. Fortunately I have a counter top shop on my street and visit their dumpster daily.


I was thinking of foregoing the plastic for that reason. The table is only warped about 1/64 or so across its 50 inch length, so not very worried about that.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

mveach said:


> I recently saw a neat setup. it was just the router table top and it attached to the top of a Workmate clamp table.


This is mine. I built the top but you can very easily modify a manufactured top to use with a WorkMate.


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## chnsws (Jan 6, 2013)

*confused*

this was first posted in 2011. and people are still answering it? if the router table isn't done yet, what the heck?


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

chnsws said:


> this was first posted in 2011. and people are still answering it? if the router table isn't done yet, what the heck?


Looks to me like Islandboy just resurrected the thread.... actually a new topic to him.:smile:


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Looks to me like Islandboy just resurrected the thread.... actually a new topic to him.:smile:


I'm a bit surprised too. I got a little busy in '11 getting married, so the router table took back burner. When I finally got time to build it she said it was just gona be more "stuff" in the garage. Now she wants some stuff built, so I have an excuse to build more tools.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

islandboy85 said:


> Here is the table. I also found a piece of somewhat warped 1/4" UHMW (I think) plastic lying about. I'm not sure if I used contact cement that the plastic would stay in place, so I may just sand and then urethane the top of the table.


Looks like a good size, how wide is it? Putting the centerline of the bit much more than 12" back from the front edge can give some ergonomic issues with having to lean over to far. If you're fairly tall, you can go further, shorter maybe a little less. Just need to give it some thought when deciding where to place the router. 
Are those grooves/seams? They would need to be covered. I would suggest HPL (high pressure laminate, aka Formica) smooth and rigid and glueable. I think the UHMW will be problematic trying to glue that. IMO that has more value in other applications anyway. You should be able to get some offcut Formica from a cabinet shop or one of the big boxes around. The UHMW would make great fence faces. 
Using sink cutouts isn't the best idea, most use a particle board substrate which will likely sag over a 4' span. The 30" or so span may be OK if doubled. Some of that is just personal opinion as I'm not a fan of particle board. 
Good luck, let us know how it goes.:smile:


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## chnsws (Jan 6, 2013)

*lol*

thats why you built it BEFORE you get married!
ed:laughing:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

chnsws said:


> thats why you built it BEFORE you get married!
> ed:laughing:


 
:laughing::laughing::laughing:I think we can all relate though:boat:


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

chnsws said:


> thats why you built it BEFORE you get married!
> ed:laughing:


Oh, but you know how it goes. We're in love. We're different from everyone else. Lol. Oh we'll. At least I've learned to get more tools than I actually need, but want every project I do.


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## sancho57 (Oct 23, 2011)

Have you checked out festoons? A bit pricey but would do everything you need. All portable, modular type tools that make a complete system. They are German and are made for the small workshop.

www.festoolusa.com

I dont work for them, but I do like their tools. Since your starting from scratch might be a good idea for you.


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## islandboy85 (Sep 17, 2011)

sancho57 said:


> Have you checked out festoons? A bit pricey but would do everything you need. All portable, modular type tools that make a complete system. They are German and are made for the small workshop.
> 
> www.festoolusa.com
> 
> I dont work for them, but I do like their tools. Since your starting from scratch might be a good idea for you.


I think that would probably be a bit over the budget.


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## sancho57 (Oct 23, 2011)

there a lot of things you can do. Once you start in the system say get the MFT with a TS 55 to begin with you can add a router table to set on the MFT.

go here

http://www.holzwerken.net/video/index.cfm?id=6&eventfilter=1&display2=5#1

look for 

Der mobile Frästisch im Einsatz 

Its german but its pretty easy to follow.

Also go to U tube and look at Ron Paulks Ultimate Work bench.

He sells the plans for like 5 bucks or so…


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

sancho57 said:


> there a lot of things you can do. Once you start in the system say get the MFT with a TS 55 to begin with you can add a router table to set on the MFT.


That set up there is just about triple what I have tied up in my router table, sliding compound miter saw, table saw and three routers. :thumbdown:


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