# Round table top



## JEC559 (Jul 1, 2009)

I am building a 46" round table top with oak and I do not have a bandsaw so I cut it out as close as I could with a jigsaw. For the most part it is pretty close. Does anyone have any tips on making the perimeter perfectly round. I was just planning on sanding with either the rigid oscilating sander or an orbital sander. If I did have a band saw would the cut be any better or would I still have the same sanding to do? My concern is keeoing the sander perpindicular to the top.


----------



## CivilEngineer13 (Aug 29, 2008)

If you have a router you could build a jig and use a flush bit to make a perfect circle. Just make a arm out of scrap wood, attach the router to one end, and pin the other to the middle of the table. Then you can rotate the jig all the way around. 

Hope that makes any sort of sense. If not, just tell me and I can clarify.


----------



## JEC559 (Jul 1, 2009)

That is how I drew the circle to cut it out I just didn't even think to use the router for this. I do have a router and a bit that I could use for this. I just need to make something to attach the router to the arm. Thanks for the idea I knew there had to be an easy way to do this.


----------



## CivilEngineer13 (Aug 29, 2008)

Should be able to find a screw with the correct threads and attach the router to the board with those screws. May want to use 1/4 thick board so you can still reach with the router.


----------



## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

Right idea. Instead of a board, you know those 2 holes for your edge guide rods to slide through? I got some long 1/4" rods and put them through those holes, made a small block and drilled two holes in it for the rods, using screws to snug the rods in place, and I stuck a short piece of 3/16" metal rod in the bottom face of the block, protruding ~3/8". I drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the table top, ON THE BOTTOM FACE, and I tap the metal dowel into it. I have my pivot point. Then I can adjust the distance of the router bit to the edge of the table. This way I can go several times around to make the cut using a straight bit. 
A plunge router is ideal for this, but if you have a fixed base router, you will need to do the cuts at graduated depths, I think.

CAUTION: When you are going around the curves, there will be a couple of points where the cut rotation is going against the grain knapp. It will want to tear out. If you make a few slight passes, you can avoid this. (i.e. if you try to take 1/8" off in one pass, you may well run into problems with it) The beauty of using the rods is that you can then bring the router another 1/32" - 1/16" closer to center very easily for the next pass. AND...you can use it for any diameter circle up to twice the length of you rods.


----------



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Just FYI, you can also make a circle cutting jig for your jigsaw (remove the shoe and screw the jig to the base plate). I just made a round table top a few months ago and used my jigsaw and came out with a perfect circle; I didn't need to trim with the router afterwards.


----------



## JEC559 (Jul 1, 2009)

Thank you for the great ideas. I like the metal rod idea since it is easily adjustable. I think I will give that a try.


----------



## thor54 (Jan 15, 2010)

I made a circle cutting jig for my table saw, but have never tried it with a circle over 2 ft.


----------



## Sawman7 (Nov 7, 2013)

Recently built a 4 ft round table top out of 2 1/2 in thick pine,
used a sawzall w/ a short fine tooth blade, worked fine , 
finished edges w/ orbital sander


----------



## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

JEC559 said:


> That is how I drew the circle to cut it out I just didn't even think to use the router for this. I do have a router and a bit that I could use for this. I just need to make something to attach the router to the arm. Thanks for the idea I knew there had to be an easy way to do this.


Save yourself some grief and use the Wrenn docking station. Router revolves around, pivoting in this coupling with no tangled cords or vac hose and your hands never leave the handles.


----------



## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

This ellipse jig doubles as a circle jig. Just remove the do-nothing engine and risers, and there you go. Just some ideas to get you started.










I also modified a Milescraft circle jig to accept a Porter-Cable template guide and it works well also. No pic.


----------



## Bill White 2 (Jun 23, 2012)

A spiral cutting bit will give ya smoother edges. I would cut with the bottom side up when using an up cut spiral bit. Carbide bit would be even better. Don't try to cut in one pass. Light cut depth and several passes will yield a much better edge.
Bill


----------



## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

Good points from Bill, and I'd like to add that in controlled router circle/ellipse cutting, you will want to 'climb' cut vs safety cut. 

IOW, if you're saving the round, cut direction is clockwise. If you're saving the frame, cut direction is counter-clockwise for the inside of the frame and clockwise for the outside of the frame. 

HOWEVER...any cut that will place the cutter in the open, is safety cut. Avoid this situation as it leaves a rough edge on the workpiece. And always work inwards toward the pivot.

Leave the 'cake' in the groove until finished. It keeps the pieces from moving at the final separation.

As always; be safe and have fun.


----------



## Sawman7 (Nov 7, 2013)

*Round Table*

Have a possible order for a 6 ft round table 
building w/ 4 2 1/4 x 20in x 6ft pine planks
plan to pin and dowel 
sitting on a 28 in, pine stump pedestal
any ideas best way to strengthen for support
Have not done anything like this before


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

To take a small bit off and get a good edge, or machining it originally, can be done in different ways. Using a router at the end of an arm with a straight faced bit works very well. The router base can be removed and an arm of ¼" plywood can be mounted to the router frame. Or, as suggested long rods can be used. Or, the circle can be cut on a table saw.


















.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Zachlie said:


> Have a possible order for a 6 ft round table
> building w/ 4 2 1/4 x 20in x 6ft pine planks
> plan to pin and dowel
> sitting on a 28 in, pine stump pedestal
> ...


Starting your own thread would get you more responses. We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself, your experience, tools and machinery you might have, and hobbies. You could go to your "User Control Panel", and edit your profile, and state what your general location is. That would help in advice concerning and pertinent to humidity, temperatures, and seasons.

















.


----------



## Chataigner (May 30, 2013)

The router idea really works, I've used it several times.


----------



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

bladeburner said:


> Good points from Bill, and I'd like to add that in controlled router circle/ellipse cutting, you will want to 'climb' cut vs safety cut.
> 
> IOW, if you're saving the round, cut direction is clockwise. If you're saving the frame, cut direction is counter-clockwise for the inside of the frame and clockwise for the outside of the frame.
> 
> ...



I was under the impression that it is never a good idea to climb cut with a trapped tool, such as one that would be fixed to a circle cutting jig.


----------



## Chataigner (May 30, 2013)

*Safety first !*

Like you Streamwinner, I'd be very wary of a climb cut. True, the finish will be better if you can control the router well enough, but the chances and consequences of losing control are too high in my view. 

Not safe !!!!


----------



## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

Gentlemen: anytime a router bit is cutting on both sides of the bit, such as dados, circles, one side of the bit is in 'climb cut' and the other is in safety cut. The operator determines which side of the bit is doing which by the direction of travel.


----------



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

bladeburner said:


> Gentlemen: anytime a router bit is cutting on both sides of the bit, such as dados, circles, one side of the bit is in 'climb cut' and the other is in safety cut. The operator determines which side of the bit is doing which by the direction of travel.


Aha! :thumbsup:


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

bladeburner said:


> Gentlemen: anytime a router bit is cutting on both sides of the bit, such as dados, circles, one side of the bit is in 'climb cut' and the other is in safety cut. The operator determines which side of the bit is doing which by the direction of travel.


It looks to me like the image you posted, that when the router is moved clockwise, the bit is fed into the cut (by virtue of it's direction...will cut on both sides). If the router was moved counterclockwise (in that image), I agree that would be a climb cut.
.

























.


----------

