# More Questions on Bandsaw milling



## Drew Pavlak (Aug 21, 2010)

Hello all again,

You all have been very helpful with the last couple of posts I had, but somehow I have more questions.:huh:

We are running a Norwood Lumbermate 2000 and the mill seems to shake when you start to get about 1/2 way through the log. It's not a vibration, so much as the whole mill kind of shakes back and forth from left to right. Doesn't seem to matter how fast you try to cut or if it is going through a knot or anything else. If you put a little pressure on the carriage it stops. Not sure if anyone has seen anything like this or not.

Second question - anyone recommend where to get blades resharpened? We are using Lenox Woodmaster C 2909197 (1-1/4" x 3/4" x 145") the length may be 144", that seems to be a common size for blades. My dad tried to measure it and it came up close to 145".

Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Drew


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I ran a norwood lm 2000 for quite a while. Never could get the "shimmy" completely out of it. :no:


If you get slow enough as you've discovered you can control it, but I could never totally eliminate it. It shouldn't be doing it 100% of the time though or even close. Depends on a lot of things i.e.e wood density, blade sharpness etc. 




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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

I have never ran a Norwood. But it seems like your shaking in the sawhead wiggling back and forth on the track (dragged by the blade). My mill has another bearing/wheel that rides the inside of the track to compensate for the torque of the blade in the log. I would look at the wheels and how they are riding the track and try to figure out how to stop that, if it is indeed your problem like it sounds to me.

I would PM you the name of my guy who sharpens (well sharpened) my blades...but I had 10 of the last 24 I sent him break prematurely IMO. Sent him 12 twice, same result, after never having this problem before. So I am looking for a new guy myself.

EDIT: I see TT was typing as I was and has experience with the Norwood. Bummer they just do that I guess.





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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Well I'm not saying they are supposed to do it, I just think each mill has different points of harmonics. I got to thinking about it more and I do remember getting it to where it wouldn't do it nearly as frequently. What you got to do is re-level it. I don't mean to infer it isn't level now, just take it off the blocks, move it over a few inches and/or backward or forward, and then level it again. This is what worked for me. It will change the harmonics that set up between the inertia of the engine and how it transfers into the carriage. Also triple check that all your bolts (all ten thousand of them haha) are tight, and that one or more of the frame members is not askew. 


And the blade length is 144". I used to buy my blades from Minominee. I now use MunkforSsagar that I get from Kennesaw Supply out of Georgia. Menominee sells Munks now too, but I don't know if they have 144" blades available. When I say "they" I mean Menominee not Munks. Minominee buys large rolls of the blades in long lengths, and they cut and weld their own lengths based on what they want to sell. There's a lot of LM2000 out there now so maybe they are making 144" blades now. 



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## Drew Pavlak (Aug 21, 2010)

Thanks guys for your help. I will try to relevel and see what happens. I will check the suppliers as well. Anyone ever heard of Lenox before? The blades seem to be holding up well, I just am not familiar with them. We have 10 blades and have used 4 or 5 so far. I think we have sawn about 12 to 15 logs so far, maybe. I think we can get 10 blades for about $175 from a supplier I found. I think they were about $15 a blade. That sounds reasonable to me, but I haven't purchased blades before, so not really sure.

Thanks,
Drew


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Lenox Woodmaster was what Norwood was using when I bought my mill. They are good blades but not as good as Munks IMO. You had to flip them inside-out to make the teeth point in the right direction. Do you still have to do that? Those prices seem reasonable. 

Remember that choosing a blade is going to ultimately be based on your own experience. Some like Stihl some like Husky some like Dolmar. Blades are no different. SOme swear by Woodmizer blades but I don't get that. Ya might give Cook's SuperSharps a try. I had a bad experience with them and didn't give them a second try, but I may in the future. 




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## Drew Pavlak (Aug 21, 2010)

I talked to my dad about the Shimmy problem and he looked at the rails yesterday and noticed one rail was a little lower than the other. He jacked it up and we will test it out this weekend. I will let you know if that take care of the problem or reduces it.

Thanks for the help.
Drew


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