# Wooden drawer handles prototype



## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

I'm building a workbench, 12 drawers, full extension drawer slides, 24"x24" drawers, bottom drawers hold heavier tools and power tools, blah, blah, blah, etc. I want to build custom wooden drawer handles.

* I'm wondering if 3/4" pine is strong enough for the finger pull handles. Maybe I should use maple, or white oak. Maybe the finger pull sections should be a little thicker?

* I'm also wondering about the size of the finger pull. I wonder what is a good ergonmic size.

The drawers are recessed 3/4" when closed w/o face. I put a 3/4" drawer face and the drawers are flush on the front. 

I'm using a 1/4" cove bit to route the finger pull. (that is the only cove bit size I have at this time. I'll probably buy another size.)

Here is the full bench, but of course, the final verison will be on the floor instead of saw horses.








Cross section of prototype handle. Is pine strong enough for the finger pull?








This feels comfortable. It fits my fingers OK. Maybe I should get a different router bit to cut the finger pull.








In the final version, the inside edges of the drawer face will be beveled or rounded over.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

The pine should be perfectly adequate for the pulls. If you are using good drawer hardware (I assume that you are) the pull should not be very hard. If the pull is hard then something is wrong with the hardware or the alignment. I would think that you would need something a little larger than 1/4", but that is really dependent upon the size of your fingers.

George


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

That cove bit looks bigger than 1/4"r. If it's not 1/4"r you could use 3/8"r or even 1/2"r. Pine would be OK for a pull. just use clear sections that don't sport knots.

Another profile that would work is slice a bevel on the back edge. Leave about 1/4" on the front edge.

Here's another suggestion. You can make an integrated continuous pull that glues right to the edge of the drawer front.
.


----------



## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

That is a fine looking bench you are building. To me 1/4 inch sounds a little small, but I have fairly large fingers. Try loading up one of the drawers with some heavy tools and see how it pulls. If it still gives you an adequate grip then I would say you are good to go. The pine shoud work out fine as you are putting the handle right across the drawer face. I like the nice clean simple design.

Gerry


----------



## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

About the 1/4" cove bit, that is what it says on the box. The box is probably labeled wrong. I did not measure it.

Cabinetman, that is a nice tool chest. Very classey. I like that design better than what I had in mind. Time for a new prototype.

Thanks for the input.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

nelcatjar said:


> About the 1/4" cove bit, that is what it says on the box. The box is probably labeled wrong. I did not measure it.



You can tell by how far the profile extends from the top to the side edge...that would be the radius.




nelcatjar said:


> Cabinetman, that is a nice tool chest. Very classey. I like that design better than what I had in mind. Time for a new prototype.
> Thanks for the input.



If you don't want to make a pull like that (there are *router bits* for that profile), you can buy lengths of pull *like this*. You can cut a kerf in the top edge of the drawer for the tenon, but that leaves the little lip overhang in the front. If you buy that pull, cut off the tenon and lip with one pass on the table saw. Then it can be glued to the drawer front and the front of the pull can be sanded flat to the drawer face.


----------



## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

I like the continuous drawer pull. I'm going to make mine from pine. It is a high grade of pine... no knots. Instead of a specialized finger pull bit, I'm just going to use a cove bit on the top finger pull, but probably a different size. And I'll use a round over bit for the bottom part. Then I will just sand the sharp edges smooth.

Since this is the only application I am planning for wood drawer pulls, I can't justify a specialized bit. There will be more applications for a cove bit than a finger pull bit.

More pictures to come.


----------



## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

*Prototype 2*

Here is my second prototype wooden drawer handle. I ripped 3/4" pine into 1" strips, used the 1/4" cove bit on the finger pull and 1/2" round over on the internal edges. (I ordered a cove bit set which I will get tomorrow.)

This the actual wood I will use in the final. It's called "Select Pine" from either Lowes or Home Depot. This is also what is used on the plywood edging. So it will match in the completed unit with the stain on it.

The 1" strip provides enough strength for the finger pull (I think), and covers the drawer plywood edges and hardware when closed.

I feel the round over internal edges, softens the harsh look of my original prototype.

What do you think? Any suggestions? Questions?


----------



## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

I agree, the round over of the internal edges does soften the appearance. A small round over on the outer edges might soften it even more. Maybe try a test piece. That is going to be areal nice work bench. Are you going to mount it on casters, or build in a toe board? 

Gerry


----------



## Jim Tank (Apr 28, 2009)

Just out of curiousity, what do you do when you have glue or stain on you fingers and you need something fast, open a drawer with your elbow?? Seems like whenever I do a complicated assembly that requires four hands, 28 clamps, and a south breeze, all of a sudden I need the catsenfloffer in the drawer RIGHT NOW!!! But I think you'll have a real nice storage cabinet there. But wouldn't quatersawn white oak just blow everybody away?


----------



## chevyll_1967 (Aug 7, 2008)

Hey Cabinetman. Love the looks of that toolbox,whats made of I have several ideas of what I want to build in one but not sure what gonna end up with yet. But do like the looks of yours reminds me of a larger machinst box, with larger drawers,very very nice.


----------



## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

It is mounted on adjustable leg levelers. I'm using 8 of them. (yes, overkill) But I did not want it to sag and cause the drawers to bind. The concrete floor in my garage is very unlevel.

I don't have a toe kick per se. But there is enough recessed space at the bottom to serve the same function. (that is a temporary board in the picture... won't be there later)

Here is a thread I started about the leg levelers I'm using.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/load-rating-3-8-x-16-thread-leg-leveler-10760/

All the legs can be adjusted from the top with a screwdriver or hex driver. (except the back 2 corner legs, have to be adjusted from the side of the bench) I have drilled holes for each leg. 

I will do a set of detailed finished pictures when complete.


----------



## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

Mmmmmm.....quatersawn white oak. (I'ld love to, but I'm already overbudget)


----------



## 2UpDuc (Dec 16, 2013)

nelcatjar : thanks for posting. I am planning my large tool box that is similar to what you have built. Curious on how much weight you put in your drawers and what size thickness of wood you used for the drawers. I am going to use standard 3/4 cabinet plywood for the box but not sure about the drawers. 42 inches High and 44 inches wide. One long drawer at the top but two drawers wide all the way down. Various depth drawers on the way down like you did. Did you put wheels on yours.? Saw some cool wheels here. WoodRiver Machine Leveling Caster Plate Mounted 4 Pack - Amazon.com curious if they will hold the weight. They should.. Any advice would be appreciated. 
Should look similar to this when I am done but out of wood..


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I don't know about pine. Why not use hard wood? Only regret I have is I used two pulls instead of one.









Would have been better to have one handle. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


----------



## Noek (Jan 26, 2013)

Looks like a very nice chest, and heavy. Just read a post where someone was building a workbench and wanted to be able to move the bench around the shop, but have it still be sturdy for planing/sanding. This is what they came up with:

Leveling Cast Plate - Woodriver

I know you said your shop is very uneven so these may not be the best solution, but I know I move my tool chest around my garage all the time.


----------



## 2UpDuc (Dec 16, 2013)

Can you take a pic from the side of the drawer. need to see how you did your full length pull. I like the fact that it is full length. Is that two pieces of wood???




cabinetman said:


> That cove bit looks bigger than 1/4"r. If it's not 1/4"r you could use 3/8"r or even 1/2"r. Pine would be OK for a pull. just use clear sections that don't sport knots.
> 
> Another profile that would work is slice a bevel on the back edge. Leave about 1/4" on the front edge.
> 
> ...


----------

