# Advice for curly maple finishing



## willhartigan (Aug 7, 2011)

Hi guys, im getting ready to build some custom curly maple furniture. I had some questions in regards to a couple points of the process working with this wood.

1. I am going to be staining with water based aniline dyes to pop the grain and achieve desired color. What grit should I sand to before i dye, as well as what grit should i use in between dye coats?

2. In regards to finishing, I want to acheive the most 3d poping effect possible with a super high gloss. And I want to retain a very rich glass like look.

So far in my reading is seems boiled linseed oil under a shellac is a great combo, possibly followed up with a lacquer sanded and buffed 2000+ grit for a high gloss. 

Would you recomend anything different or better? Conversion varnish in place of lacquer? A totally different approach?

As a side note, is buffing lacquer to a super fine grit nessesary to make it super high gloss? I read many people doing this

Thank you!


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

willhartigan said:


> Hi guys, im getting ready to build some custom curly maple furniture. I had some questions in regards to a couple points of the process working with this wood.
> 
> 1. I am going to be staining with water based aniline dyes to pop the grain and achieve desired color. What grit should I sand to before i dye, as well as what grit should i use in between dye coats?
> 
> ...


1. i would go to 320, and then 400-600 between coats

2 i would forget about the blo and shellac and go the conversion varnish

buffing lacquer makes for a mirror finish just mack sure you achieve a good build, or you will burn through. i would try and stay away from buffing. easy areas like tops are no prob, but legs and other areas are hard to buff.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

willhartigan said:


> Hi guys, im getting ready to build some custom curly maple furniture. I had some questions in regards to a couple points of the process working with this wood.
> 
> 1. I am going to be staining with water based aniline dyes to pop the grain and achieve desired color. What grit should I sand to before i dye, as well as what grit should i use in between dye coats?
> 
> ...


what this video on blotching which you will get . It is by charles neil http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=InTheWorkshop#p/u/33/IfCYMdrP8rM


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## tjwoodworking (Oct 3, 2010)

The wood will need to be washed to raise the grain, then sanding to 320 to smooth it back down. 

Aniline dye really does bring out the best in figured maple, but it fades quickly and drastically. There are modern non-fading dyes, such as those made by Homestead. 

I've had success with aniline by top-coating with a light wash of asphaltum. Asphaltum also enhances figured maple, has a nice color for maple, and is 100% light fast. I've found that the coat of asphaltum protects the aniline dye from fading.

Asphaltum is mixed with either BLO or Tung Oil, and spirits. A touch of asphaltum in the mix produces a light amber tone, a lot of asphaltum can produce a dark walnut color. 

I agree with Jack about the finish, although I don't have experience with conversion varnish and don't know how it buffs out.

Achieving a wet look with lacquer requires building up the finish over a period of time, and when it's cured, buffing. You have to let the lacquer cure between coats. It has to set a week before buffing to ket the lacquer cure. Buffing won't work if the lacquer isn't really really hard.

As Jack pointed out, plan on buffing out table tops. You'll never be able to buff out nooks and crannies, you'll just end up with uneven shiny spots, even with gloss lacquer.

Another alternative is to do all the prep work, then take the pieces to a finishing operation and have a polyester finish applied. Definately will give the wet look.

Personally, I like to tell my clients how perfect a satin finish is for them.:yes:

If they're not convinced, I let them know just how much extra this will cost:









:laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I wouldn't go any smoother than 180x-220x on the bare wood to start, and, 320x between coats. I like using a silicon carbide sandpaper (intended for dry use), called either "Fre-Cut", or "No-Fil". It's a light grey color.

Use BLO, or pure Tung oil (or china oil), thinned at least 25% with naptha. Tung oil will be more of a clear application. Once dry, using a lacquer sanding sealer, and then a "water white" lacquer will give a build. 

If you retard the lacquer minimally, you can get a very nice finish "off the gun", on your last applications. That type of application may suffice, and just may be OK for the hard to get to areas. For the most part, you can go with the wet-or-dry sanding with water to the 1500x-1800x and then use polishing compounds.

Try any variables in making samples first.












 







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## Custom B Guitars (Jul 20, 2017)

jack warner said:


> 1. i would go to 320, and then 400-600 between coats
> 
> 2 i would forget about the blo and shellac and go the conversion varnish
> 
> buffing lacquer makes for a mirror finish just mack sure you achieve a good build, or you will burn through. i would try and stay away from buffing. easy areas like tops are no prob, but legs and other areas are hard to buff.


I'm a luthier and glass finishes are required. I use a nitrocellulose but I have an excellent spark free spray booth because this lacquer is extremely flammable not to mention explosive. But I've also used polyurethanes. After your stain work, with any varnish, a sanding sealer is a must, even with nitrocellulose there is a sealer vinyl coat . It helps keep the finish in place years down the road but mainly makes the first layers of varnish absorb consistently. I always spray my finishes, brushing will require considerable more coats to sand out brush marks. As far as thinning you lacquer or varnish you should check the manufactures label because thin finishes can create a lot of headaches if running begins to occur. A saggy layer will not dry consistently and if not allowed to dry longer it can crater during wet and dry sanding. I will always build layers before initial wet/dry sand using a very fine steel wool 00000 and barely wiping the surface between layer to add tooth and wiping down with denatured alcohol to remove any fine wool dust. Stacking layers between sanding prevents sanding through to possible stain and exposing woods original color. My first sanding is usually 150 working to 220, 320 and finally 400 and possibly 600 but, always wet sand, never dry sand. In my guitar buffing is the final process and there is of course a whole array of buffing compounds but usually always start with a medium and then fine, use a different pad for each compound. Minor rough areas can be buffed out but do this with a very watchful eye. That's how I achieve glass finishes and it takes a great deal of patience. If you rush it will fight you.


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