# cedar chest



## Donmcb6 (Jun 1, 2008)

I made a cedar chest using aromatic cedar. Finished the outside with danish oil and then polyurethane wipe on. Chest has been closed up for about 3 years with nothing in it. Now when I opened it there is a sticky pitch like substance coming through by the knots and white wood. Wood was supposed to have been kiln dried. How can I fix this? It is a graduation gift for granddaughter.
Thanks,
Don


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Try scuff sanding with 320x open coat silicon carbide sandpaper...the light grey paper, designed to sand dry. You could get away with 320x aluminum oxide, but I don't recommend garnet. Or rub with bronze wool. Don't use steel wool as the metal particles left will rust.


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## bsheitman (May 31, 2008)

Only one thing will truly seal wood knots...shellac. Or so I've heard. I'm quite a novice at pretty much all of this.:thumbsup:


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## YouNGwOOd (Apr 21, 2008)

Shellac is a great sealing product... Its a lot better than all the other products that are available to the public.


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## steck (May 7, 2008)

here's a link which infomed me (a noob) about shellac...near bottom it says about it's knot sealing capabilities...


http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=31



".......and is the only coating in the world that will effectively block wood knots and sap streaks, preventing then from bleeding into the finish paint"


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## Donmcb6 (Jun 1, 2008)

The problem I would have with shellac is that I would lose the cedar arouma, unless I just put it on the knots. First I will try sanding as cabinetman suggested, but still open to other and all suggestions.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Have you considered sealing the area with a two part epoxy? Maybe not the best solution, and you'd have the same concern re: losing the aromatic benefit unless you only sealed the knots. There are a bunch of good marine-grade epoxies that might work at sealing just that area. I'd leave the thing open for a few days afterward because the epoxies have a pretty strong odor themselves. I guess that would apply to shellac as well, though.


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## bsheitman (May 31, 2008)

Really? My impression of shellac is that it's almost completely odorless depending on the type of solvent you've dissolved it in. Denatured Alcohol you buy from the hardware store 90%ethyl/10%methyl smells only faintly, and it's dried in 5 minutes at which point it doesn't smell at all.

Now, BIN primer/sealer....that's another story but the smell still isn't lingering. I think they use butyl or something to extend the working time which is powerfully stinky stuff.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

bsheitman, I have only limited experience with shellac a long time ago, but I seem to recall an odor that I thought was pretty strong. My memory could be faulty though. I don't generally like the look of shellac so I go for other options.


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

The alcohol odor is gone when the alcohol is completely evaporated and this doesn't take long.

Regards

Jerry


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