# Kitchen Cabinet Hinge issues



## RickMNJ (Apr 12, 2013)

Hi all,

I'm trying to straighten out a situation and need some advice as to which direction to go.

I had the majority of my Birch (plywood) kitchen cabinet doors refinished with a few being remade. Done by a friend who owed me a favor.

When reinstalling I found that some doors did not fit properly. Apparently the original hinges have next to no adjustment capability. To make matters worse I can't even find these or similar hinges anywhere.

So, thinking that these are no longer available, especially in a version that's adjustable, I'm hoping I can get some recommendations on which (inset?) hinge to use. 

I'm guessing I may have to either leave the notch at the top of the door or fill somehow. BTW, most doors have some measure of alignment issues so I'm likely going to rehinge the majority of them.

Attached is a pic to illustrate my set up.

Thanks in advance!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Those hinges are available if you want them. Their adjustment is from the slotted holes.









 







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## RickMNJ (Apr 12, 2013)

Thanks for the quick reply, Cabinetman. Unfortunately I need more flexibility adjustment-wise. I'm hoping to gain door height and left/right (horizontal) adjustment capabilities.

Can you tell me what type of hinge I have and what I might use in it's place?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RickMNJ said:


> Thanks for the quick reply, Cabinetman. Unfortunately I need more flexibility adjustment-wise. I'm hoping to gain door height and left/right (horizontal) adjustment capabilities.
> 
> Can you tell me what type of hinge I have and what I might use in it's place?


If you can fix the cutout at the outer edge, you could use a concealed euro hinge for face frames and an overlay type. They would need to be bored (35mm) into the back of the door.









 







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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

In my area that type of hinge is known as a knife hinge. Sometimes if you put in new hinges and change brands its necessary to alter the size of the door to make fit. There really isn't very much adjustment. 

http://www.thehardwarecity.com/getProducts.html?start=KM&end=KP


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Those style hinges are common and still available, known as a pivot hinge, knife style hinges are a little different. There is limited adjustment once the screw holes are drilled but you can drill holes as needed. It's important to be able to drill the pilot holes dead center of the screw holes in the hinges. Use a sharp awl to mark the hole, use the correct size drill bit and wrap a piece of tape around the shaft of the bit so you know when to stop and not drill completely through the doors. There are also Vix bits that will center and drill the holes at the proper depth. You can fill existing holes with a piece of wooden match, point the end a little and drive them in the existing hole, cut the excess off flush. The hinge plates will cover existing holes so they aren't seen. A piece of paper or cardboard can be placed underneath the hinges, too. Paper matchbook covers are a handy size for shimming if needed. With a little ingenuity, you can make those hinges adjust to the conditions, within reason. Changing out those hinges, especially to Euro styles isn't an easy task if you aren't an experienced woodworker with the necessary tools.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinge...+Hinges+for+Cabinets/Amerock+1242+Pivot+Hinge


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## RickMNJ (Apr 12, 2013)

Gentlemen, Thanks for the responses and for the proper term for the hinge.

I'm thinking of using this to replace what's there now.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Euro-Hydrau...619?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5c873433


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RickMNJ said:


> Gentlemen, Thanks for the responses and for the proper term for the hinge.
> 
> I'm thinking of using this to replace what's there now.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Euro-Hydrau...619?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5c873433


It appears that from your first picture that your cabinets are faced framed. The hinge and mounting plate you pictured as a replacement is meant to be cabinet wall mounted in a frameless configuration. If you have face frames (wood added to the face edge of a cabinet that protrudes slightly into the opening), you need to pick a hinge/mounting plate for face framed cabinets. 

Face frame hinges are figured in inches of overlay that the door lays on the cabinet, and orients its hinged edge.










 







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## RickMNJ (Apr 12, 2013)

Thanks for pointing that out. Yes, I was in error, I need hinges for an overlay configuration. 

I see that there are different size hinges. I took measurements and documented in a drawing. Is the size I'm concerned with the "A" in my drawing? Also, am I looking for all "Full" overlay hinges or do I also need "Half" overlay when two doors meet back to back and are mounted to a common cabinet wall?

Thanks again.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You would need a different euro hinge for that application. With most of them full overlay means the door will overlap the opening 3/4". You are needing to overlay 1 1/2". Blum makes a "Compact 33" hinge with the wrap around backplates that would overlay 1 1/8" to 1 5/8". With that much adjustment if you had 3" of face having doors back to back you could use the same hinge for both applications.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> You would need a different euro hinge for that application. With most of them full overlay means the door will overlap the opening 3/4". You are needing to overlay 1 1/2". Blum makes a "Compact 33" hinge with the wrap around backplates that would overlay 1 1/8" to 1 5/8". With that much adjustment if you had 3" of face having doors back to back you could use the same hinge for both applications.


It's been a while since I've used the "33" hinge, but IIRC, the doors cannot back up to eachother (hinge edge) with minimal clearance (⅛"), or less. They need more room for opening rotation. They also protrude the door off the face frame a minimum of 3/32". The cup hole should be drilled as close to the edge as possible...I drill them about 1/16" heavy, to 2mm.








 







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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> It appears that from your first picture that your cabinets are faced framed. The hinge and mounting plate you pictured as a replacement is meant to be cabinet wall mounted in a frameless configuration. If you have face frames (wood added to the face edge of a cabinet that protrudes slightly into the opening), you need to pick a hinge/mounting plate for face framed cabinets.
> 
> Face frame hinges are figured in inches of overlay that the door lays on the cabinet, and orients its hinged edge.
> 
> ...


How about building out the space between the cabinet wall and the face frame. Then he could use a non-faceframe cabinet hinge.

I do not know if there is any advantage to this.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> How about building out the space between the cabinet wall and the face frame. Then he could use a non-faceframe cabinet hinge.
> 
> I do not know if there is any advantage to this.
> 
> George


IMO, frameless hinge plates provide a sturdier mount for hinges.










 







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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The compac 33 hinge would work but I think the best solution would be to cut the faceframe off the end panel and using a standard euro hinge. The faceframe was just put there to mount the knife hinges.


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## jessrj (Mar 30, 2012)

Totally changing the door hinge will be a lot of work. I would be in favor of tweeking the existing hinges. You can shim the hinge plate attached to the face frame or move the hole that it is attached with if you cant get enough adjustment. Even if you have to Bondo the holes before you move it so the screws dont slip back in the same hole. This will take less time than changing the hinges.


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