# I got screwed at Lowes



## Skeaterbait (Jul 28, 2009)

Ok, I am finishing a project and needed some screws to attach some drawer fronts. So I run by Lowes and grabbed some wood screws... well they may as well truly been made out of wood because every single one of the stripped the head before it fully seated. I even drilled pilot holes.

So, can anyone suggest where to buy, or what brand to look for to get some decent wood screws that won't strip when putting them in?


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## garryswf (Aug 17, 2009)

Skeaterbait,
What type of head did the screws have? I like to use the torques head screws from Lowes', never had a problem with them stripping out.


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## wfahey (Oct 24, 2009)

I have had this happen when the drive bit did not properly match the heads in the screw. If the bit fits well and the screw is driven straight, they go in cleanly. My experience anyway.


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## Skeaterbait (Jul 28, 2009)

Phillips head. They are zinc (according to the package). It could be the bit and the angle but they just seemed very soft even considering the other factors.


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## garryswf (Aug 17, 2009)

Skeater,
Try the torques head and see if you like them, like i said when i buy screws from lowes' thats what i use and don't have any problem with them stripping out.


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## Skeaterbait (Jul 28, 2009)

I'll give those a try. Thanks.


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## Lucas54 (Aug 21, 2008)

I love the square head screws. If I have the choice, that's what I use.


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

I hardly ever use anything but "Robertson" head (square drive) screws anymore.


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## hancockj (Jul 2, 2009)

*Scorpion Brand*

Skeaterbait, I really prefer to use the Scorpion Brand screws. They are square drive with a self drilling tip. I still drill pilot holes and countersink them. They do cost a bit more than regular screws and not all lumberyards in my area carry them. The ones I usually get are coated but I am not sure with what (at work now), kind of a light greenish color.

http://www.scorpionscrews.com/html/images/FSI Self Drill Cat.pdf


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

First, make sure your pilot hole is a comfortable fit for the screw size you are using. A too small pilot hole dramatically increases the torque needed to drive the screw in. Secondly, be sure your drill is perfectly aligned to the screw. If the drill is tilted a little and the screw requires a lot of torque, the drill will come out of the Phillips socket and strip it. Thirdly, use a torx head screw where you can. Kevin H.


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

Those square drive screws are "Robertson", invented by a Canadian.
Way nicer to work with than slots or Phillips.

To the Original poster: 

There is a European screw tip which looks a lot like Phillips, but isn't. 
They are often used in kitchen hardware. 
It is called a Pozi-drive. 
Most often the screw will have little marks on the screw head between the 'phillips' slots. 
Different angle to the tip, as well. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidriv


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## Larry Norton (Sep 30, 2008)

www.mcfeeleys.com

They have a HUGE selection of wood screws, most of them square drive. Once you use them, you won't like anything else.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Skeaterbait said:


> Ok, I am finishing a project and needed some screws to attach some drawer fronts. So I run by Lowes and grabbed some wood screws... well they may as well truly been made out of wood because every single one of the stripped the head before it fully seated. I even drilled pilot holes.
> 
> So, can anyone suggest where to buy, or what brand to look for to get some decent wood screws that won't strip when putting them in?


Specifically what type of screws did you get. What was the size? What size pilot hole did you drill? What type of wood were you screwing them into? Did you lubricate the screws when you noticed that they were hard to turn?

There are many factors entering into wether or not it was the screw or the operator.

George


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I use Spax screws.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Another Spax fan here. I like GRK fasteners even more, and will also use square if I'm out of Spax or GRK torx types. GRK makes fasteners for just about any application you can imagine. Best line of cabinet screws on the market IMO. GRK is another great product from north of the continental dee-vide.


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## KC7CN (Aug 21, 2007)

lucas54 said:


> i love the square head screws. If i have the choice, that's what i use.


+0.5 +0.5


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## wfahey (Oct 24, 2009)

TexasTimbers said:


> ...another great product from north of the continental dee-vide.


Uh TT, I'm pretty sure the Continental Divide runs North and South. :yes: So things are considered East and West of the Dee-vide.


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## AndersonsWoodworks (Jan 7, 2010)

I use drywall screws for almost all of my projects. The course threads hold very well and the heads are hard to strip.


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

Look on the container where it says 'made in.......?. That should answer the question.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

wfahey said:


> Uh TT, I'm pretty sure the Continental Divide runs North and South. :yes: So things are considered East and West of the Dee-vide.


I don't know how I learned myself the wrong way on that, but when I was just a wee lad I got it put in my head, or it was put in their correctly but it just landed wrong somewhere in there, that the CD is what divides us from Canada. I know better but I still revert to that wrong-headed thinking, when I don't think about it. :wacko:

What's funny is, I love geology (AND geography) and am fairly knowledgeable about the geology of our planet and can recite random (and useless) facts about our planet . . . that big Pacific/Atlantic watershed thing notwithstanding. 


Screws man, it's all about screws . . . loose ones. :laughing:




.


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

kjhart0133 said:


> First, make sure your pilot hole is a comfortable fit for the screw size you are using. A too small pilot hole dramatically increases the torque needed to drive the screw in. Kevin H.


That's interesting. What's the fizix behind this? This may be my problem. I usually drill a pilot hold that is the diameter of the screw shaft, leaving the full depth of the threads to grip the wood. Is there a better method?


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## woodtone (Jan 27, 2010)

I've had the same problem until I switched to a taper countersink bit. I got mine from Rockler.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

you didn't mention what material you were driving into. softer woods are more forgiving on the pilot holes, but hard woods make pilot necessary and even adding some lubrication (i use beezwax) to the screw for insertion. because they sometimes damage heads during install sometimes i'll even use one screw to set the screw and threads in all the holes then discard it and use new ones for final install, if they are going to show on a finish project.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Ditto on the lubrication. I've used candle wax or a bar of soap on the threads.


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## don716 (Mar 1, 2008)

Use the Square drive and your problem will be solved.My phillips head screws used to do that alot until I switched to square drive and no problem since.Lowes carries them.
Donny


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

Streamwinner said:


> That's interesting. What's the fizix behind this? This may be my problem. I usually drill a pilot hold that is the diameter of the screw shaft, leaving the full depth of the threads to grip the wood. Is there a better method?


There are specific sizes of holes for the various screw sizes and they are different for softwood and hardwood.

here is one link that lists the sizes: http://www.woodbin.com/misc/wood_screw_pilot_holes.htm


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

jlhaslip said:


> There are specific sizes of holes for the various screw sizes and they are different for softwood and hardwood.
> 
> here is one link that lists the sizes: http://www.woodbin.com/misc/wood_screw_pilot_holes.htm


Thanks for the link. I had no idea. I'll print out the table and keep it in my toolbox.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've posted this before:

*See Warning***

A tool used correctly is much more efficient, and produces good results. If one wants to totally demolish a phillips head when driving a screw, there are a few tips I can give. First use the fastest speed your tool has. Second, manage to be off the line of the screw, that is maintain a slight angle to the screw. Third, try to have minimal pressure on the screw bit into the screw head. Fourth, after the screw has seated, leave the bit spinning in the head.

Other tips for disaster: Don't bother to take the time to predrill any holes. Having the screw split the wood is only a minor setback. Having the screw skip off the starting point will allow your bit to nicely plow into the wood and leave a distinct pattern of the bit. Better than that, you could be lucky enough to have the bit skip off the screw and plunge directly into a portion of your hand causing you to bleed all over the work.

Another tip of the day for those who like metal objects falling on their face, is not to predrill for holes above your head. Try to keep the screw on the cool magnetic bit/holder for overhead work, and manage to do it directly above your face. Try to hold several screws in the freehand while doing this so they can also fall into your face.

For the muscle bound grip of steel craftsmen out there, holding heavy parts or ill fitted parts with one hand and driving screws with the other is a real time saver and proves clamps aren't really necessary.

It's not necessary to take the time to figure out what length screw should be used. Make sure it's a little long so it will poke through the other side giving maximum grip. There's holes to fill anyway.

Make sure short screws keeps spinning when fully seated. This assures that they won't go any deeper. Countersinking may be a useless step. Having protruding screw heads are so much easier to find.

For maximum bodily injury, work so that the screw/driver is pointing at your face or body.

***Warning: These are tips from a been there done that guy that should NOT be followed, or tried.*


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## Burt Waddell (Jan 6, 2010)

Simple. Buy only hardened steel screws. They are usually black and if you have the proper bit you have to try to strip them.

In my opinion buying a zinc screw is asking for trouble - kind of like crosscutting plywood with a one tooth blade.

Burt


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## wooddude9 (Sep 6, 2008)

After that happens to me on about the second screw I just wack:hammer::hammer: it with big waffle hammer and drive it in ,crack the wood , then throw the whole project away & start over, with a new bit ,screws,wax,and a pilot bit.(And try it out on a sample piece of the same wood.) But thats just me


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

thewoodworkingwizzar said:


> Hello All,
> 
> You can't go wrong with good ol fashioned dry wall screws. They work for any application and come in a variety of sizes. I have used them for technical projects or just everyday projects for framing. With any screws it's important when running them into hardwoods to have a good pilot hole and also a good bit and strait shot so you don't strip the screws out on the first shot. Slowing down your drill spread also helps significantly.
> 
> My 2 cents


How many 3-4 year old threads you going to resurect today?


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

mengtian said:


> How many 3-4 year old threads you going to resurect today?


Could you explain to me what is the harm in resurrecting old threads? Do you know how this maxim even got started? It used to be a valid argument when your state of the art was a Commodore 64 sitting on your desk and bandwidth was supremely expensive and very hard to come by. But bandwidth is now relatively super cheap by comparison and has been for a long long time - so this myth that reviving old threads is somehow "bad" - is no longer valid. Especially in a thread where the OP is not asking for time-sensitive information, or even where he is but others have contirubted usefull info - let's add to it. 

Some of the most entertaining and informative threads span years. Times change. It's best if we change with them on things like this and stop perpetuating things that are essentially irrelevant. Old threads are cool. If they are useless and to be considered verbotten then why not just delete them from the database and save all that expensive space.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

tends to bury recent threads seeking responses with old threads with problems that were long since resolved.


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## Ronnie1a (May 24, 2009)

*Try a little soap on the threads*

They also make a lubricant specifically for wood screws, about the consistency of a bar of soap.


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