# Sandpaper vs. 3M Scotch-Brite Pads



## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

What are your thoughts on using each in between finishing coats?

What are some pros and cons of either type?

Thank you in advance for any and all feedback! :smile:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

wlofton said:


> What are your thoughts on using each in between finishing coats?
> 
> What are some pros and cons of either type?
> 
> Thank you in advance for any and all feedback! :smile:



I like Scotch-Brite pads. They can replace sandpaper. I take my ROS and leave a sanding disk on it and slap a pad on the disk. It adheres well. It works great. Here's a thread about the pads, with a sandpaper grit equivalent chart.












 









.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Wl,
I use both. The scotch brite is nice if you are using water based finishes. No worry about steel wool pieces left behind messing up your finish. Course a good shop vac and tack rag should eliminate that.
Mike Hawkins


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

What the others said. I use them interchangably. When I am getting toward the final coats I go to pads, less scratching. But for a glass like finish, I wet sand the finals coats with 1200-1500.


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## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

Thanks guys! 

I picked up one to use on my test pieces and I got the ultra fine pad and it barely does anything so I think I need to move to a more aggressive pad. I am going to pick up the maroon one for the in between coats and then use the light gray one right before the final coat.

I hadn't thought to use one as an applicator but then again I am fairly new to this too! :smile:


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Use both, depending on what I'm doing. Never thought about puting pad on ROS though. Have to give it a try. Thanks Cman.


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## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

Are the 3M pads reusable? Can I clean them somehow and continue to use them on other projects? I thought about a quick rinse with mineral spirits followed by soap and warm water, just wasn't sure about the material breaking down.

I picked up a general purpose pad and found that it worked wonderfully! :thumbsup: I would much rather use this than sandpaper especially between the first and second coats of finish, I found that you're less likely to sand through the first coat by accident.


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## Milele (Jan 14, 2013)

Hello,
May I have the code number or spec number for the Scotch Brite-#M pad? May I have the Article number for the maroon pad to sand bewteen coats? Thanks in advance


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

One of the things you want to accomplish when between coat sanding is to make or keep the surface as flat as possible. The flatter the surface, the nicer the surface will look when finished. You don't want to see hills and valleys or ripples. 

The best way to accomplish this is to use a sandpaper mounted on a felt covered flat sanding block or other flat padded surface. The flat rigid face will sand the high spots bringing them down to level. Once they are level, the flat sanding block will keep them level. 

Using a flexible pad, even backed by a hard block, will tend to ride up and down over a non-flat surface without making it flat.

A non-woven abrasive pad is fine for between coat abrading of non-flat and/or curved surfaces.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I like using scotch brite to scuff crown moldings or carvings where I want to avoid burning the color off the edges, otherwise I am with Howard, I want to flatten the surface and a hard block/pad and sandpaper is the best way to so that. ( I like 3m Tri-mite for my scuffing)


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

HowardAcheson said:


> One of the things you want to accomplish when between coat sanding is to make or keep the surface as flat as possible. The flatter the surface, the nicer the surface will look when finished. You don't want to see hills and valleys or ripples.
> 
> The best way to accomplish this is to use a sandpaper mounted on a felt covered flat sanding block or other flat padded surface. The flat rigid face will sand the high spots bringing them down to level. Once they are level, the flat sanding block will keep them level.
> 
> ...


+1 I agree completely


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## BClem (Jan 14, 2013)

These work well, too:
http://www.3m.com/product/information/Flexible-Sanding-Pad.html
You can cut them up into smaller sizes and they are washable.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Some finish products are activated by successive coats, shellac and lacquer, for example. Others need a mechanical bond with previous coats like many urethanes. Sandpaper provides cut scratches for that mechanical bond. You can also get runs, dust nibs, hairs, etc. in a finish coat. Sandpaper will remove these much better than synthetic pads. As others have said, sandpaper will also will flatten a surface. Pads are better suited in steps to polish a final finish coat rather than between coats. The synthetic pads have their uses but they are not a direct replacement for sandpaper. I use them much more with metal work than woodwork


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