# best oil to care for for an oiled walnut slab table?



## tanner (Sep 8, 2008)

Hi! I just got a solid slab walnut dining table, about 1.5 inches thick with an "oil finish." It was made by a small company that makes reclaimed/sustainable wood furniture, but the salesperson at the shop I bought it from was unsure what kind of oil was used. I am guessing Tung oil, but who knows... 

The table is right in my kitchen and will get LOTS of daily use--with kids and NO coasters or placemats. I expect it to "age" with use, not be treated lightly...

Anyway, I'm just trying to figure out what kind of oil would be best to use on it for regular upkeep. It was a floor model, so it's already a bit dry and looks like it could use a coat right away, but I don't want to use the wrong thing. I imagine Tung oil would be best, but honestly, I would love to use something with less vapor/fumes, especially as I am pregnant. Could I use pure lemon oil? Old English Lemon Oil? Food grade mineral oil? Your advice is much appreciated!


----------



## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

My kind of table. I would just use the mineral oil as it is food safe, easy to apply and will continue to give it a deep, richer look. Oils though offer no protection, except from maybe a little moisture.


----------



## tanner (Sep 8, 2008)

Thanks.
Can I use mineral oil for general upkeep, but do a coat of pure tung oil once a year or so? I did a little research that suggests PURE tung oil is totally food-safe/non-toxic. However, I imagine it takes quite a quite to dry. Anyone know?

Also, anyone familiar with Boos Mystery Oil, which is made for butcher blocks?

Thanks so much!!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

tanner said:


> Thanks.
> Can I use mineral oil for general upkeep, but do a coat of pure tung oil once a year or so? I did a little research that suggests PURE tung oil is totally food-safe/non-toxic. However, I imagine it takes quite a quite to dry. Anyone know?
> 
> Also, anyone familiar with Boos Mystery Oil, which is made for butcher blocks?
> ...



You could use Mineral oil, or boiled linseed oil. Tung oil takes longer to dry than BLO. Even though you aren't going to prepare raw food directly on the table, any of the oils will work safely, they will all dry.

The Boos Oil is a mix of Linseed Oil, Tung Oil, and Mineral Oil.


----------



## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

I am afraid you are going to be disappointed,there is a reason tables are properly finished.

Regards

Jerry


----------



## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

I have to agree with Jerry, this is no application for an oiled table. I think some catalyzed laquer would be in order. You can treat that stuff like crud and it justs smiles back at you.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Some woodwork can be just an "oiled" finish if that is what it was. Some resellers have no idea what finishes are on their products. For a table like that you may consider an oil and varnish mix, or an oil and oil base polyurethane mix, both could be thinned some with mineral spirits and be wiped on for a more durable working surface. Or, use a packaged product that's already mixed like a "Danish Oil Finish", or Waterlox Original.


----------



## tanner (Sep 8, 2008)

jerry said:


> I am afraid you are going to be disappointed,there is a reason tables are properly finished.


My concern has been that all of the "properly finished" tables I've seen require, or so I am instructed, care such as coasters, placemats, etc. I don't mind giving it a quick oil rub once a week if that's what it would take... When I was thinking about getting one custom made, I'd been leaning toward a zillion coats of Tung Oil, as per someone's recommendation here (the once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for life method); alternately, I was also thinking about looking into Waterlox further. But, since I ended up getting a great deal on this gorgeous table already made, and since it is supposedly just "oiled," I'm just trying to figure out the best maintenance approach... Maybe I should schlep it out to the garage and go with the Tung oil applications for a while...?

Waterlox, catalyzed lacquer, Danish Oil Finish question: which is easiest to apply? Also, with each of these, will the *finish* show the scratches and water marks the way a poly often seems to? Can they be touched up/maintained easily?

And how about one of those oil and wax applications, such as this: http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/kitchen/best-products-bees-oil-040350

Thanks SO much!


----------



## danncd (Apr 23, 2009)

I believe if you Oil it on an ongoing basis the table will last for a very long time. Let me know how it worked out for you. I have a table 5 years old that I oiled and it looks brand new. I typically oil it about once per month.


----------



## Dvoigt (Dec 6, 2007)

Why not put a coat of Ren Wax on top of it. That will give so additional protection and is easy to apply as needed.


----------



## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I'm with DVoigt. Just wax it with a quality wax, or save money, and make your own beesxaw polish. This will give you more protection than just to keep oiling it.


----------



## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

I don't think the the *once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for life method* is meant for something that will have food spilled on it daily. I'd go with mineral oil myself, 'cause I love the fresh look it gives, but you will definitely have to follow through on your once a week plan for the kind of heavy use you describe.


----------



## tanner (Sep 8, 2008)

Well, out of laziness, mostly, we used the table for three months--placemats most of the time, oiling it with Boos Mystery Oil, which is butcher block oil made from tung and mineral, mostly, i believe. we'd just oil it at night when it looked especially dry, which varied from once or twice a week to once every two or three weeks. it worked out fine, but it did seem too dry, like that wouldn't be good for the table in the long run. also, once i used a foodsafe oil and wax paste ("bee's oil" or something) made for wood bowls and butcher blocks. after that, though, i did get some white rings with damp glasses, which i did NOT like! that's exactly what I wanted to avoid. 

last week, though, we finally pulled the table out into the garage and have started tung oil applications. we got "pure tung oil" and "citrus solvent" from the milk paint company. we mixed them approx. 1/2 and 1/2, and so far we've done three coats, 2-3 days apart. i'm hoping we can just keep this up for a few weeks and we'll eventually have a hard, deeply oiled surface that will last quite a while, no placemats or anything? then maybe an upkeep coat a couple times a year, as needed?

out of curiousity, if i did a serious wax application like some of you are recommending, properly buffed an all, would I not have the water rings issue?

very much appreciate your time and thoughts...


----------



## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

Any oil finish will offer very little protection and in time will begin to flake off. Oil finishes offer very little if any water vapor protection,chemical or any other kind and wax is worse. You are expecting oil to act as varnish. Good luck.

Jerry
}span.jajahWrapper { font-size:1em; color:#B11196; text-decoration:underline; } a.jajahLink { color:#000000; text-decoration:none; } span.jajahInLink:hover { background-color:#B11196; }


----------



## HSBD (Apr 25, 2009)

*Renegade Wood Finishes*

Have any of you tried Renegade Wood Finishes http://www.awa.cc/wood_care_home.asp

I have it on my front door that a custom made craftman style door that is 2 1/2" thick Maghogany. It works great and was invented by a guy how is a enviromental cemist. I rubbed four coats on. The door gets full southern exposure and Kansas City winter and it holds up great. Next week I will clean the door with a cleaner and reapply a couple of coats, no need to strip the doors. I will use some foam sanding pads to apply the first coat, then a rag to clean of extra. After a couples hour aplly more with rag. Wow! great looking door.

I also have done all inside cabinets with the same product. If it can handle a midwest winter it can handle a wet towel.


----------

