# Delta Table Saw Motor



## Brentwood (Mar 15, 2016)

I bought a Delta table saw in 1991. I have replaced the motor in it twice. It died about 12 years ago and has been taking up space since. 

Does anyone know of any optional motors I can use since they don't seem able to make a good one for it?


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## Ecurb (Mar 1, 2016)

do you know what was going wrong with the motors, my thought is that would be easier than fitting another motor.


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

Look on the nameplate of the motor. Is there a NEMA frame size (FR)? If so, almost every motor manufacturer makes a motor that is identical to yours. A 56 frame is the exact same thing from Baldor, Leeson, Siemens or Marathon. 

Most of the motors on our stuff is of the 'open drip proof' type. And unless they are shielded pretty well, they will need the dust blown out of them occasionally. If you don't ever want to fool with it again, buy a 'TEFC' motor (totally enclosed fan cooled). More bucks, but sawdust doesn't stand a chance!


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

Yikes 3 motors in 13 yrs, and were they all Delta motors? I agree with Ecurb. Were they wired to the TS correctly/securely? Is your area prone to lighting strikes and or power line surges and or brownouts? Do other tools and or appliances cook prematurely? Infrequent use along with high MC can wreck wiring too.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Not a lot of info to go on here, which saw, what voltage, was it running on an extension cord, seems strange that two motors would both burnout in that time. I think I would be checking the cause before trying a third.


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

Delta has a lot of different models out there, with several different motor types. You'll need to get more specific with a model #. It's like asking generically about a Chevy motor.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

unless there were very harsh conditions (and even then it is questionable), that is an unacceptable failure rate. there is likely another condition causing this.


1. I would check in with the manufacturer and explain this issue.
2. You need to verify the voltage being supplied (at the motor) to the motor during operation. Motors receiving low or high voltages (+/- 5%) are going to experience overheating and premature failure.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*what's the horsepower rating?*

If it's a 1/2 HP motor or even a 3/4 HP motor it's really not powerful enough for ripping on a table saw. You need a 1 HP motor.

The supply wiring AND the switch must be rated at at least 15 AMPs, 20 AMPs is best. A 12 GA wire from the outlet is best, but a 16 GA wire will work OK. A 20 AMP rated outlet is best, but a 15 AMP supply outlet will be OK. A good plug is needed, so check it out.

I doubt if it's the motor's fault, more likely the wiring/supply or the environment. Too much dust will make a motor overheat and "burn out" Make certain you don't have a tripped "over load" button the motor.

A replacement motor will most likely have the standard NEMA frame 56 mount. It's the most common mount for fractional motors under 1 1/2HP. So, any brand motor will work with that type frame, Leeson, Martathon, General Electric, Dayton, Craftsman, etc.

Like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-1...024003?hash=item3abf7205c3:g:J60AAOSwYlJW5q3n

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-S...515815?hash=item464a3237e7:g:47QAAOSwyjBW52wm


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

good point bill.


op - did you replace the motor with oem every time?


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## Bob Vaughan (Oct 29, 2008)

If it was one of those "skill saws in a box", made in Taiwan, table saw substitutes, then three motors in that many years isn't too bad. I've seen guys box those things up to control dust so the motor was constantly swirling sawdust through it. Those motors usually last about a year with frequent hobby use.
In 1991, there were two Delta lightweight "bench saws" on the market, the 34-330 and the 36-510. The 34-444 was the contractor's saw that had the motor hanging out the back. There were also two "motorized" low-cost 10" saws, the 34-740 and the 34-670. These two had a universal motor up inside under the saw's table but were still better than the first two saws mentioned. Google the model numbers to get an idea what they look like and parts availability. These were the model numbers of low-cost table saws listed in Delta's 1991 catalog for home shops and builders.


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## Brentwood (Mar 15, 2016)

It is the 34-670 model.
I am looking but not finding any cheap motors. Maybe it is just time to replace it all.


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## Brentwood (Mar 15, 2016)

It is a 1 hp, 15 amp direct-drive, or internal belt driven motor. The blade bolted right onto the shaft.
I replaced the motor with originals both times and it was stored inside all of the time. Somewhere I saw there was an upgrade to the old motor (906297) but can't tell if it is any better.


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## Bob Vaughan (Oct 29, 2008)

in 1991 the 34-670 listed for $450.00. For comparison, the Unisaws at that time were at or slightly above $2K, depending on configuration, so it wasn't the worst of the lot by any means.
The motor you're looking for is a purpose-built size, but you probably already know that. At that time, those brush-type motors were rather well built for the price bracket they were in. It had a full length shaft driven by a timing belt on the opposite end.
Sometimes those motors can be repaired. I've done several of the 34-080 miter saws with similar motor design. Since those motors are Taiwan-made, there's only so much someone can do.

Over the years, I've seen many of the 34-670 saws sitting in sheds rusting away because of motor problems, so your situation isn't all that uncommon. That saw was a great value when it was made and a lot of people bought and used them for years, but as you've found, the motor was the weak link.

Consider a replacement saw with a standard motor such as what's called a "contractor" saw these days. Naturally, I'm on the side of those that know that fixing up an old Unisaw is the best way to go for the long-term durability.


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

If you can find a cheap used 34-670, 36-600, or TS300 I'd consider replacing it, but I wouldn't spend the money for a new OEM replacement motor. These were compact saws that are only 22" deep, and had universal motors. Motor life on those doesn't have a good track record, so you'll likely be replacing it again in the future. 

For about the same money I think you'd get more from a used full size contractor saw like a Delta, Grizzly, Jet, GI, Ridgid, or Craftsman....look for the outboard belt drive motor, and verify that it's 27" deep. Then you'll have a capable saw with some growth potential that will accept a lot of accessories, and is more feasible and easier to fix if ever needed.


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## Brentwood (Mar 15, 2016)

What a great resource this site is!
I have learned a lot!
Thank you all for your expertise!


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## Brentwood (Mar 15, 2016)

I came across a guy selling his power tools. He has a big Craftsman Contractors 10" table saw. It is probably between 5 and 10 years old. 
A new one is $600. but this looks like it has nicer extensions. 
How much is a good used saw like that worth?


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