# My first project with African Mahogany...



## magguy (Oct 28, 2015)

New to the group.. About 10 minutes new . Im working on my first project using African Mahogany and was curious if any of you guys know the best way to make the exotic finish "POP". Like examples below. Please let me know your tips/tricks :smile:


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

With that wood it isn't difficult to make the grain pop. Any oil stain would do it. If you don't want to add any color you could just use linseed oil or tung oil prior to using an water based finish. If using an oil based finish it has the linseed oil in it already and doesn't need a prior treatment. Please note an oil based finish tends to be a little yellow and continues to yellow over time. Any finish that is acrylic would remain clear. Catalyzed lacquers and waterborne finishes also will remain clear.


----------



## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

I lurve tung oil


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Any oil finish should do the trick. My first choice would be tung oil. From what you said I assume that is not your actual piece of wood. Most wood doesn't have grain that beautiful, so don't be disappointed if yours doesn't look that good. You can see what your piece looks like by rubbing some alcohol on it


----------



## magguy (Oct 28, 2015)

hwebb99 said:


> Any oil finish should do the trick. My first choice would be tung oil. From what you said I assume that is not your actual piece of wood. Most wood doesn't have grain that beautiful, so don't be disappointed if yours doesn't look that good. You can see what your piece looks like by rubbing some alcohol on it


You are correct not wood, but my wood actually has more grain believe it or not!  Thank you for the tip


----------



## magguy (Oct 28, 2015)

Ghidrah said:


> I lurve tung oil


Thanks for the tip! I think this is the route I am going to go


----------



## magguy (Oct 28, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> With that wood it isn't difficult to make the grain pop. Any oil stain would do it. If you don't want to add any color you could just use linseed oil or tung oil prior to using an water based finish. If using an oil based finish it has the linseed oil in it already and doesn't need a prior treatment. Please note an oil based finish tends to be a little yellow and continues to yellow over time. Any finish that is acrylic would remain clear. Catalyzed lacquers and waterborne finishes also will remain clear.


Thank you very much for the detailed response, very much appreciated


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Shellac and lacquer finishes will offer a more brilliant shine than an oil finish. You can rub these finishes out to the point you see your reflection in the wood. 
Good luck.


----------



## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> With that wood it isn't difficult to make the grain pop. Any oil stain would do it. If you don't want to add any color you could just use linseed oil or tung oil prior to using an water based finish. If using an oil based finish it has the linseed oil in it already and doesn't need a prior treatment. Please note an oil based finish tends to be a little yellow and continues to yellow over time. Any finish that is acrylic would remain clear. Catalyzed lacquers and waterborne finishes also will remain clear.


Steve, how long do you let the oil dry before applying a wb topcoat?


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

was2ndlast said:


> Steve, how long do you let the oil dry before applying a wb topcoat?


If the weather is reasonably warm and dry overnight should be enough. If it's cool and or damp you might wait an extra day to be sure. If the oil isn't dry enough it can cause some adhesion problems.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

I usually paint mahogany.


----------



## jacko9 (Dec 29, 2012)

While painting mahogany is one option, I usually go the shellac and arm-r-seal finish. A nice white paint would give it a lot of protection form the elements however:thumbdown:


----------



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I guess before long, people are going to think I work for Waterlox, but I don't. 

I like Waterlox for figured woods. It's made with tung oil so it's kind of one-stop-grain-pop-shopping for an oil+varnish finish. I use Waterlox "Original"; I apply the first coat by repeatedly applying the finish until no more is absorbed, then wipe off the excess. The next coats I apply by brush. I just keep adding coats until I get the gloss I like.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I usually paint mahogany.



Warner, 
Tell me you're joking!


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Toolman50 said:


> Warner,
> Tell me you're joking!


Nope. I make a lot of screen doors. They are expensive, I use the best lumber I can (have a large stash of mahogany) most end up painted. 

I will be painting a bunch of Sapele soon too.


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Nope. I make a lot of screen doors. They are expensive, I use the best lumber I can (have a large stash of mahogany) most end up painted.
> 
> I will be painting a bunch of Sapele soon too.


You might try eucalyptus red grandis where your located if the price isn't too high. We use it for exterior tables for restaurants. Very good to work with...


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Nope. I make a lot of screen doors. They are expensive, I use the best lumber I can (have a large stash of mahogany) most end up painted.
> 
> I will be painting a bunch of Sapele soon too.



I wouldn't have thought of mahogany for a screen door. 
I'm too low rent I guess. 
I used to get a catalog from a place that featured a lot of higher end screen doors (many were a Victorian design) but I think they were all made from Fir. 
I bet your Mahogany screen doors are beautiful.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Rebelwork said:


> You might try eucalyptus red grandis where your located if the price isn't too high. We use it for exterior tables for restaurants. Very good to work with...


Only thing its not more then, is honduras mahogany.

I can get 6/4 sapele for under 5 bucks a bf.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Toolman50 said:


> I wouldn't have thought of mahogany for a screen door.
> I'm too low rent I guess.
> I used to get a catalog from a place that featured a lot of higher end screen doors (many were a Victorian design) but I think they were all made from Fir.
> I bet your Mahogany screen doors are beautiful.


Very stable, especially for a 1 3/16" thick door that slams closed every time you use it and for the harsh climate changes of NE IN.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Only thing its not more then, is honduras mahogany. I can get 6/4 sapele for under 5 bucks a bf.


 How much a BF do you pay for mahogany? Local mill wanted $8 per BF.


----------



## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I'm not sure how much the eucalyptus red grandis is in 6/4. We only get in 4/4 and 8/4. The 8/4 we get directly of the ship from overseas.


----------

