# Ripping sheet plywood with a circular saw



## Gocubs (Dec 18, 2008)

Going to be ripping down some 3/4" plywood with a circular saw, as I'm still hunting for the right table saw deal (thy ply was on sale at my local Menards, which does not offer any type of cutting). Will be using a straight edge to keep me on track, ( http://wayneofthewoods.com/circular-saw-cutting-guide.html ) and I found a sheet rack I think I'll be using to help as well ( http://wayneofthewoods.com/circular-saw-cutting-guide.html ). I'm looking for input on a blade to use. Am I correct in thinking I want something with fine teeth, even though I'll be mainly ripping? I imagine that a large tooth blade meant for general ripping would cause a lot of chipping, etc... in plywood. I'm looking at the Avanti TK303 ( http://www.freudtools.com/p-51-thin-thin-kerf-general-purposefinish.aspx ) as my likely choice right now. Would I be better served to look for a second blade for cross cuts, or can this one handle both? Any suggeestions would be welcome. Thanks all.


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## justin2009 (Jan 5, 2009)

Yeah, more, smaller teeth will give you a smoother cut. I picked up a new blade for my circular saw as I had to rip three sheets of 3/4 ply. There was not a lot of tear out with the smaller teeth. Teh guide is a good idea as well, just make sure it's square across the ply. I would clamp one end and adjust the other then recheck the first clamp on my guide to be sure (after one out of square cut)...


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

It may sound like I am saying something that doesn't need to be said but make sure that you allow for the offset between your saw's baseplate and the blade. Forgetting this offset will result in a lot of cursing.  It sounds like it need not be said, but even experienced woodworkers make mistakes. That being said, I have *never* made this mistake.:whistling2:
Ken

(and I would agree that a finer blade would suit cutting ply better than a coarse blade to minimize tearout)


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

Kenbo said:


> It may sound like I am saying something that doesn't need to be said but make sure that you allow for the offset between your saw's baseplate and the blade. Forgetting this offset will result in a lot of cursing.
> Ken
> 
> The beauty of the jig he is looking at is that the edge of the jig is the cut line. So long as he uses the same blade thickness consistently.
> ...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

That straightedge and blade would be a good choice. I use a 40T, carbide tipped blade, nothing fancy,from the big box stores and I get a pretty good cut.

Pick a large flat area to do the cutting. Put supports under the sheet on both sides of the cut, so when the cut is finalized, the pieces are stabilized. Make sure there is enough space under the sheet for blade clearance. Cut with the good face down, and putting masking or painters tape on the cut lines to minimize chipping.

Make sure the saw is adjusted high enough to clear the guide on the straightedge. Have the cord laid out so it's clear of the cut and sufficient in length to do the entire cut. Since you will be moving yourself and/or your body to do the entire cut do a preliminary "walk through" just to acquaint yourself with what you'll be doing. When you start your cut make sure the guard is moving freely to allow the saw to smoothly enter the cut. When the cut is complete, allow the saw to come to a stop, make sure the guard returned to "safe", and then place down.


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## Sawduster (Dec 30, 2008)

Don't let someone who knows less than you do, hold things for you.:no:


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

If all that wasn't enough, I have one more thing.

Make real sure your blade and your fence are nice and parallel. If your saw ever got dropped it may not be. Without that the quality goes to the birds.


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## MF Poor (Jan 7, 2009)

Sawduster said:


> Don't let someone who knows less than you do, hold things for you.:no:


I'm not sure there is ANYONE who knows less than I do:laughing::blush:


I guess I gotta hold my OWN then


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Geez, I'm such a dope. I should have clicked on the link to the jig first before opening my mouth. Sorry guys.
I kinda wish I had that jig when I needed it.
Ken


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Gus Dering said:


> If all that wasn't enough, I have one more thing.
> 
> Make real sure your blade and your fence are nice and parallel. If your saw ever got dropped it may not be. Without that the quality goes to the birds.



There's gotta be something that we forgot. Oh yeah, I did think of something. Before starting check the cord to the saw and any extension cords for frays and they are in good order. Once you do that, the saw can be plugged into the power source.

I did think of something else while I was typing this, but it slipped my mind. Maybe it'll come to me later.


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## Sawduster (Dec 30, 2008)

I bought a welder a few years ago and the book that came with it had a preface that read something like, "There is no book, video tape or DVD that can teach you as much about welding as just doing it."

You're going to make some bad cuts. Save your mistakes and cut them down for future projects. You'll get better with every job.


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## moondawg (Dec 17, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> There's gotta be something that we forgot. Oh yeah, I did think of something. Before starting check the cord to the saw and any extension cords for frays and they are in good order. Once you do that, the saw can be plugged into the power source.
> 
> I did think of something else while I was typing this, but it slipped my mind. Maybe it'll come to me later.


this advice is very important. You're going to be using a circular saw, which means you WILL be cutting through the cord at some point. No point in doing it halfway... you want to be cutting through a perfectly good cord. Cutting through a worn cable isn't NEAR as satisfying.:thumbsup:


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## benlkmary (Jan 10, 2009)

*Trick Learned at Woodworking Show*

Greetings all. Several years ago I attended several seminars given at a national woodworking show and one of the instructors shared a way to accurately rip plywood. He suggested clamping a 2x4 to a table and butting the factory edge of a piece of plywood against it. The joint should be tight and if not, find a 2x4 that is straight. Rip the plywood with your circular saw the entire length of the plywood. This creates a template that can be used to position your saw correctly for the entire length of the cut. Use the template to set your distance from the fence to the saw cut. Also mark the template for the saw and blade used. A second template can be made for the back side of the saw to the blade. These dimensions will obviously differ.

This can be used as long as you use the same saw and blade. A new blade will require cutting a new template for accuracy.

Just thought I would share that tip. I have used it for years with excellent results.

Best Regards to all.
:thumbsup:

Additional information

This technique also works great for your router as well for flush cutting wood of any type. A smaller template is obviously advised.

Ben:smile:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

benlkmary said:


> The joint should be tight and if not, find a *2x4 that is straight*.


Good luck getting one of those at the local Lowes or Home Depot.:laughing:
Nothing is straight there.:no:
Ken


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## Gocubs (Dec 18, 2008)

Thanks for all the great advice. I've had the saw for 3 or 4 years now, and it's been well taken care of, so everything should be parallel, but I'll double check it to be sure. Taping/scribing the cut lines is something I hadn't thought of. Moondawg, when I blow through that cord I'll make sure it's the one on the saw, not the extension, just to be sure to do it right! Anyone else who has something to add, by all means! Thanks again, guys!


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## Gus Dering (Oct 14, 2008)

I did think of something else while I was typing this, but it slipped my mind. Maybe it'll come to me later.

You funny:laughing:
At least I think you're being funny

When is enough enough? If you had to share a few tips on safely using a table saw, where would you stop? Maybe you leave that one thing out..... ouch


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

Just to chime in on the conversation, I have made it a habit to use blue painter's tape to cover the cut line, especially the bottom side to help prevent tear out. It seems to help from my experience.


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## TheRecklessOne (Jul 22, 2008)

Good call Al...Same with me. If I rip plywood I always tape the line. I use 2 inch masking tape though. Partly because I got 3 rolls for super cheap, and partly because I don't have to line it up perfectly. Plus its sometimes difficult to see a black mark on on blue tape.


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## moondawg (Dec 17, 2008)

Gocubs said:


> Thanks for all the great advice. I've had the saw for 3 or 4 years now, and it's been well taken care of, so everything should be parallel, but I'll double check it to be sure. Taping/scribing the cut lines is something I hadn't thought of. Moondawg, when I blow through that cord I'll make sure it's the one on the saw, not the extension, just to be sure to do it right! Anyone else who has something to add, by all means! Thanks again, guys!


Boy, you're off to a rough start. You never, and I mean NEVER us an extension cord with a circular saw when cutting plywood. 

You're only supposed to use the cord that comes with the saw. This is so that when you get halfway through your rip, the cord will come tight and then pull out of the wall... stopping the saw and pinching it in the kerf.

Then you have to rearrange the pile of bricks, cats and 5gallon buckets that you were using to support the plywood so that everything is closer to the outlet so you can finish your cut.

You've got ALOT to learn, buster!


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## LNG24 (Feb 20, 2007)

moondawg said:


> this advice is very important. You're going to be using a circular saw, which means you WILL be cutting through the cord at some point. No point in doing it halfway... you want to be cutting through a perfectly good cord. Cutting through a worn cable isn't NEAR as satisfying.:thumbsup:


Brand New Porter Cable Saw...Third Cut with it....Didn't Cut the cord until I was setting it down and the cord wound up catching the blade 

I had a male end in the truck so I threw a new one on. But Now...
This :thumbdown: :thumbdown::thumbdown: happens all the time :laughing: Guess I gotta spring for a new cord. 



moondawg said:


> Boy, you're off to a rough start. You never, and I mean NEVER us an extension cord with a circular saw when cutting plywood.
> 
> You're only supposed to use the cord that comes with the saw. This is so that when you get halfway through your rip, the cord will come tight and then pull out of the wall... stopping the saw and pinching it in the kerf.
> 
> ...


FWIW: I would NEVER use a 2x4 as a straight edge! Don't know what that teacher was talking about, but they are never straighet enough for cabinet making. Maybe ripping sheething for roofing or framing, but nothing else.


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## moondawg (Dec 17, 2008)

LNG24 said:


> Brand New Porter Cable Saw...Third Cut with it....Didn't Cut the cord until I was setting it down and the cord wound up catching the blade


That's EXACTLY how I cut the cord on mine. There's JUST enough room for the cord to get between the saw deck and the blade guard.

And I did the same thing, put a new plug on the end... and always have an extension handy.

Well, that's what I did after a while. For a long time, I just twisted the exposed neutrals together.... the hot didn't get cut. Yeah, I'm lazy... sue me!


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## mlightfoot (May 13, 2008)

Gocubs - I have used very similar jigs, with 3 different lengths for the past 7 years. I just switched to the Frued Avanti blade you mentioned in the first post last year. It was the cleanest cutting blade I've used for plywood and definitely worth the money. I make my jigs with 1/4" ply on the bottom with 3/4" plywood on the top. I also made a couple of the jigs I can use with my router to make dados.


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## mlightfoot (May 13, 2008)

OOPS - I forgot the other thing I was going to add. I use a sacrificial 1x4 grid that sits on saw horses to hold the lumber. I have no idea how to draw pictures with this keyboard so I will attempt to spell it out. I have 2-8' 1x4's that sit on the saw horses about 2 feet apart. I have 4-4' 1x4's that go across them. I used my dado blade to cut half way though so it all fits together quickly and without tools. THis gives me a stable and flat surface for any size sheet and allows for clamping almost anywhere. Just set the saw blade 1/4" deep and rip away. I have been using mine for 5 years. There are lots of cut marks but it works great. As for cut cords, I have done more than my share building houses and remodeling. I use the stock cord until I, or another worker/fiend/neighbor cut it. Then I replace with a 20' cord and a replaceable end. Then, when it happens again, i have plenty left.


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## Rich Aldrich (Apr 26, 2008)

I have a Bosch CS20 Circular saw that has no cord. There is a male plug on the saw and a hook for an extension cord. If I cut the cord, the extension cord just has to be replaced. This was after I rapped the cord around the blade on my previous saw.

The best blade I found for cutting plywood is a 40 tooth Freud that was purchased at HD. I really like the blade, but it was $20 for a 7 1/2" blade. Well worth it in my humble opinion - especially when you look at the price of A-1 hardwood plywood.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Festool TS-55 or TS-75 and a long rail. No eaisier way to rip large sheet goods.


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## Gocubs (Dec 18, 2008)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> Festool TS-55 or TS-75 and a long rail. No eaisier way to rip large sheet goods.


Yeah, I'm sure that would be easier, but the whole reason I'm doing this with a circular saw is because I don't have a table saw, and if I did have $400+ to spend on a new tool, it would go towards a table saw. Nothing against the rail saw, but it's a lot of money for a saw with a pretty limited use, although I'm sure for this project it would be perfect.


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