# Starter hand plane set



## Bwood (Nov 28, 2011)

I am trying to get together a "starter" plane kit ( like three to start off), if you were to start off with a good solid kit what would they be, what brand and why?


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Unless you have the budget to go with Lie Nielsen, Veritas, or Clifton, I'd go for older Stanley Bailey, Bedrock, Record, or Millers Falls. The older planes are better made than the affordable new imports. 

Something like a low angle block plane, #5 jack, and #7 jointer are about all I'd really need. Couldn't hurt to add a #3 or #4 smoother and a shoulder planer later on. YMMV.
























Tips for buying older used planes


----------



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

knotscott said:


> Unless you have the budget to go with Lie Nielsen, Veritas, or Clifton, I'd go for older Stanley Bailey, Bedrock, Record, or Millers Falls. The older planes are better made than the affordable new imports.
> 
> Something like a low angle block plane, #5 jack, and #7 jointer are about all I'd really need. Couldn't hurt to add a #3 or #4 smoother and a shoulder planer later on. YMMV.
> 
> Tips for buying older used planes


I totally agree with Knottscott. Those would also be the first three I'd recommend. You'll find they are affordable too but will require a lil clean up and tuning. 

If you get a mesg from johnray looking to sell you planes I suggest you run. lol Check eBay, Etsy, and local flea market / antique malls.

~tom.  ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


----------



## Bwood (Nov 28, 2011)

Thanks guys for the feedback! What is the opinion of the low angle stanley sweetheart block plane? I am seeing mixed reviews.


----------



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Bwood said:


> Thanks guys for the feedback! What is the opinion of the low angle stanley sweetheart block plane? I am seeing mixed reviews.


I'm guessing you are referring to the new one available at box stores... It's made in china and I'd say it's only marginally better than a buck bro plane. Find and old one and you can't go wrong.

Here's the old Stanley block I like but I don't recall the model number.

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


----------



## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

Bwood said:


> Thanks guys for the feedback! What is the opinion of the low angle stanley sweetheart block plane? I am seeing mixed reviews.


Run away, run away! Find a real stanley block plane. I am very partial to the #60 low angle, adjustable mouth. The knuckle-joint ones are nice too but you can't have little girly hands to hold them comfortably, and finding one that's clean and affordable can be hard because of the collectors. 

Check out Mr. Leach's Stanley Blood and Gore 
Then head over to flea-bay and find one hidden behind a fine coating of rust or white paint splatters. Pick it up for cheap and take a couple hours to clean it up. And since you're going for the tool, not the name - Sargent made great copies of the Stanleys, as did Millers Falls. And Craftsman block planes were made by all the big boys.


----------



## Bwood (Nov 28, 2011)

Is there an issue with loss of "japaning" or could I just clean it up and repaint it? What things do I need to stay clear of in a used plane?


----------



## Bwood (Nov 28, 2011)

Joes! Forget about that last question! Found it in the article you provided!!! Thanks!


----------



## JaceAlan (Dec 9, 2011)

Might be a stupid question...What's the best way to find an older Stanley plane versus a newer one? I guess my question is, how do you know you're buying an older one on eBay (for example) versus a newer one? Model number differences?


----------



## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

JaceAlan said:


> What's the best way to find an older Stanley plane versus a newer one? I guess my question is, how do you know you're buying an older one on eBay (for example) versus a newer one? Model number differences?


It takes a little time to learn all the nuances. If you google Stanley plane type study you'll find a lot of charts. This one has pics:
https://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/planes101/typing/typing.htm

Some quick tipoffs:
Rosewood is good, black stained hardwood is not so good.
Laterall levers - one piece are good, folded are cheap.
For block planes - original #s (see the Leachmeister site above) are 2-3 digits. Newer stuff will be more. For example a 110 block plane might become 22-110 (that's an example, don't bother binging or yahooing for 22-110, I just made it up.)
You can't confuse the old sweetheart era planes with the new. It will jump out at you. The former will say "nicely patinated quality" and the latter will scream "gaudy overpriced bauble".

Patent dates behind the frog - 1,2,3 are a characteristic to look for. 
Look at the type study for the different logos on the cutter. Look closely at the flea-bay pics to match it up to a type/year. 
Low knobs are an even earlier type - much sought after.

At the flea-markets I can spot the cheapos a mile away - big shiny silver adjustment knob behind the frog, folded lateral and the rear tote isn't rounded, it's got squarish edges. 

So basically you just have to gain some experience, look at and hopefully pick up a lot of them. You will very quickly learn the difference in types and qualities. And remember - you can always buy a new iron (like a Hock) and put it in a good old plane, so if you find one with a dead cutter don't just give up on it.

Final note: my tip about folded laterals only works for Stanley. If you're a [email protected]@r then there are some other brands out there with folded, or twisted lateral levers that might be of interest.


----------

