# Walnut Table Plans - Right Direction?



## chriskoww (Jun 6, 2011)

I have not been working in the shop because I just moved, so I have been pretty busy and haven't really had a shop to work in. Well now that I am settled in, this summer I plan on making a dining table made of all walnut. 

I created the plan in sketchup, so it should be fairly simple to show how I plan on making this thing. I am looking for tips or pointers to look out for or suggestions that may help. Thanks in advance!

*TOP*
I plan on joining 4 inch pieces of walnut together, biscuits and glued to have a "butcher block" appearance. I am using 1 inch stock, so I plan on adding another piece at the perimeter to make it look like a nice thick slab. The top will be separate from the frame.

*FRAME*
I plan on having the legs, frame/apron all one piece. It will be walnut as well. I plan on attaching the top to the frame buy biscuit jointing a slot (or saw cut) into the apron and inserting a Z clip and placing a screw into the top.

*FINISH*
Sand....Wood Filler...Sand....Sealer (shellac)....and many coats of waterlox satin tung oil, sanding in between with 600 or steel wool. 

Thoughts? My descriptions probably are lacking, so I attached a bunch of pictures. 

Thanks for any help you can give


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The only thing I don't like about your plans is putting shellac under waterlox and using steel wool. If it were me I would seal the wood with waterlox and continue with it. The first coat keep applying it every hour or so until it won't accept anymore and then wipe off the excess and allow it to dry. I also never use steel wool for between the coats. Steel wool is dirty and gets fibers into the wood and finish. I would recommend using 220 grit or finer sandpaper for between the coats.


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## chriskoww (Jun 6, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> The only thing I don't like about your plans is putting shellac under waterlox and using steel wool. If it were me I would seal the wood with waterlox and continue with it. The first coat keep applying it every hour or so until it won't accept anymore and then wipe off the excess and allow it to dry. I also never use steel wool for between the coats. Steel wool is dirty and gets fibers into the wood and finish. I would recommend using 220 grit or finer sandpaper for between the coats.


Thanks Steve, I have read so many ways to finish I am starting to jumble them together. I will skip the shellac.


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## Nick Sandmann (Oct 24, 2014)

I'm not going to dive into which is the better way to finish(this is like the chevy vs. ford debate), but I will provide you with some good advice. Take some scrap boards and do some test finishes and decide what "you" like.

This will do 2 things:
1.) You will know exactly what the finish will look like before you apply to the real piece.
2.) If there is a problem with your chosen finishing methods, it should become evident on the test pieces.

I've personally used dewaxed shellac underneath other finishes on projects and never had an issue. I've also skipped the shellac on some too. It really boils down to personal taste and the "look" you are going for.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

chriskoww said:


> Thanks Steve, I have read so many ways to finish I am starting to jumble them together. I will skip the shellac.


Also when you finish be sure to finish the underside of the table top. This will reduce the wood movement and prevent it from perhaps warping.


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## chriskoww (Jun 6, 2011)

Nick Sandmann said:


> I'm not going to dive into which is the better way to finish(this is like the chevy vs. ford debate), but I will provide you with some good advice. Take some scrap boards and do some test finishes and decide what "you" like.
> 
> This will do 2 things:
> 1.) You will know exactly what the finish will look like before you apply to the real piece.
> ...





Steve Neul said:


> Also when you finish be sure to finish the underside of the table top. This will reduce the wood movement and prevent it from perhaps warping.


Nick - Good advice. I usually do test boards on all big projects, so this will not be different. I plan on making only two though

1. Sand..Filler...Sand...Waterlox Tung oil (x10 coats)
2. Sand..Filler...Bulls Eye Sanding Sealer..Sand...Seal Coat...Sand.. urathane top coat

Steve - Something i would have completely missed, but it makes sense. I do not want this dang thing warping. 

Thanks guys


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## Zircon (Aug 1, 2009)

I hope you are not planning to saw up large boards to make the butcher block effect. Generally when you see that type of top it's to use up small scraps of wood. Much nicer look with boards the length of the table and wide as you can get them.


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## Belg (Oct 2, 2011)

Make sure your scrap test pieces are sanded the same way the rest of your project is. The finish will vary by the grit size you finish sanding to.


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## chriskoww (Jun 6, 2011)

Zircon said:


> I hope you are not planning to saw up large boards to make the butcher block effect. Generally when you see that type of top it's to use up small scraps of wood. Much nicer look with boards the length of the table and wide as you can get them.



Its all preference. I like both looks, but am a big fan of the butcher block . Architects do it all of the time on my projects, and I really like the way it breaks up the monotony of the piece. I think 6 long walnut boards glued together would be beautiful, but the butcher block look will make it unique. 

Again, preference. I see it both ways

I did the butcher block look on my cribs side panels (with cherry) and loved the way it made a typically simple task a little more complex. You would have hated my earlier design (below)


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## chriskoww (Jun 6, 2011)

Finally Finished by Dining room table! 

Thanks for all of the comments - especially Zircon, who's comment stuck with me enough to the point I ditched the butcher block look and went with straight boards. Best decision I made


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## chriskoww (Jun 6, 2011)

JUST in case anybody would like to see how I made this, I document everything I make. Not sure if this is against rules or not - but I can delete if needed. 

Building the Frame - HERE

Building the Top - HERE 

Finishing the Table - HERE


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

chriskoww said:


> JUST in case anybody would like to see how I made this, I document everything I make. Not sure if this is against rules or not - but I can delete if needed. Building the Frame - HERE Building the Top - HERE  Finishing the Table - HERE


We love build threads! Thanks for sharing.


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