# Whats Best way to strip louvered door?



## tingtingcj (Aug 2, 2015)

I have been stripping an all wood louvered door for days and days and can't seem to get it stripped down. It's my first time with a louvered door. There are so many nooks and crannies and the top and bottom curve of the louvers..... It seems impossible to get it done. I saw some posts about dipping the door but it is just ONE door and I don't even know where I would take for that or what it would cost. I live in Sacramento, CA. I knew this was going to be a challenge, but now it seems endless. It's a really sturdy, well made, all wood door I picked up cheap at Habitat for Humanity but someone put a coat of semi-gloss over gloss without sanding and the paint peels off. It's gotta be done but I hit the louvers with stripper and it just keeps coming off and it's all stuck between the louvers. It's a huge mess. My husband even hit it with his power washer and it didn't even touch the mess. Any suggestions?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*what stripper are you using?*

The water washed types aren't as strong as the solvent types. You may not be able to get them in Kalifonia because of the VOC's ... I donno? The strongest is Aircraft Stripper in a blue can. I also use Klean Strip and they are pretty volatile, but strong. Work in a small area using a stiff fiber brush and rough towels to get the old paint off. Just keep on, keepin' on.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Gallon-Kl...hash=item1e6cf67782&item=130677110658&vxp=mtr


OR:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rust-Oleum-...hash=item2c97356ddf&item=191515422175&vxp=mtr


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Honestly, I think I would chunk it out the back door and get a replacement. You must really like it or you're a cheepskate! :thumbsup::yes:


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> The strongest is Aircraft Stripper in a blue can.


Cost me near 50 bucks for a can of that the other day... Good stuff. :thumbsup:

Guy at the paint store said I could use saran wrap to loosely wrap the parts so that the gases would better peel the finish off. I asked him how the saran wrap would NOT melt and make a big mess and he just said that it wouldn't without explaining. (the thick aircraft stripper not the thin watery kind)

Last time I stepped in some of this that I 'thought' I had cleaned up on the shop floor - The bottom of my shoe began to melt soon after... 

I wonder if the guy at the paint store was just messing with me?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You pretty much can't strip a louver door without a power washer. Still it takes a lot of elbow grease to strip one by hand. Personally I don't like dipping anything to strip the finish off. I used to have a dip tank in my business and got rid of it because I didn't like the sodium hydroxide residue that penetrates the wood so far you can't seem to get rid of. It gets the wood stripped clean but when you put a new finish over the top the chemical re-activates in humid weather and strips off the new finish for you. What would work better for the louver is a flowover strip system. If you can't find someone with a dip tank you probably can't find one with this equipment either. 

Doing it by hand and depending on the paint that is on it I would soak the door down with Kleen Strip remover, not the aircraft remover but the regular semi-paste remover. The aircraft remover is formulated for metal and is too strong for wood especially if you are going to use a clear finish as the new finish. Keep the door wet with the remover re-applying remover to the dry spots for about an hour and scrape off all you can. If it doesn't come 80% clean scraping wet the door down with remover again for about a half hour and then scrape it again. Then as quickly as possible rinse what finish is left off with a power washer. Use a power washer that is 1200 psi or lower or one that can be adjusted down. The power washer will lift all those little spots you can't get to with the scraper. If the Kleen Strip remover didn't do it for you, you might try Stripease remover. Usually what finish one remover will get the other one will. Stripease is usually better for finishes like lacquer anyway.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Cost me near 50 bucks for a can of that the other day... Good stuff. :thumbsup:
> 
> Guy at the paint store said I could use saran wrap to loosely wrap the parts so that the gases would better peel the finish off. I asked him how the saran wrap would NOT melt and make a big mess and he just said that it wouldn't without explaining. (the thick aircraft stripper not the thin watery kind)
> 
> ...


I use garbage bags when I have to strip something, but I also use ciristrip. I cake it on, wrap the garbage bags around the piece pushing it tightly on the stripper, and leave it for 24 hours. Works great.

Im with everyone else, wire brush the louvered areas best you can and pressure wash it as well.


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

RandyReed said:


> I use garbage bags when I have to strip something, but I also use ciristrip. I cake it on, wrap the garbage bags around the piece pushing it tightly on the stripper, and leave it for 24 hours. Works great.
> 
> Im with everyone else, wire brush the louvered areas best you can and pressure wash it as well.


 
Appreciate the help and advice Mr. Reed. :thumbsup:

I honestly thought the guy was messing with me and that the plastic stuff would just melt as soon as it hit the stripper (like the bottom of my shoe did). :blink:


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

OnealWoodworking said:


> Appreciate the help and advice Mr. Reed. :thumbsup:
> 
> I honestly thought the guy was messing with me and that the plastic stuff would just melt as soon as it hit the stripper (like the bottom of my shoe did). :blink:


Like I said, I have only used citristrip with the garbage bags, and Im sure its not as strong as other strippers, but this technique has always served me well.......and I hate using stripper!

Here is an article:
http://www.2littlesuperheroes.com/2013/04/stripping-painted-furniture.html/


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