# jointing 8ft boards



## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

tried a router on some scrap and it moves the straightedge. u hold it gently and move it along but idk. i have a other straight bit to use for what we are working on but with it pushing the guide its gonna ruin it every time. under a time crunch so need some help soon.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the guide must be clamped*

Use a factory edge from a piece of Masonite as a guide. Make it about 8" - 10" wide if you want to run the router base against the 1/4" edge with just a straight cutter, no bearing.
Use a 1/2" MDF factory edge underneath if you are using a bottom bearing bit. Clamp them all together to avoid movement.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

clamp your boards together as shown in the sketchup about 7/16" apart. Run a 1/2" router bit down between them. Two edges will be mirror images of each other.:yes:


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

yea id thought about the mdf. no bottom bearing. had also thought of taking this 3/16 thick 2x2 L angle and clamping it down and using it.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

well tried the VERY RIGID angle iron and im still getting a bow in the middle. the angle is true and it shouldnt be moving


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Why not clamp the adjoining boards together, good side-to-good side, and hand-plane a nice hollow joint in them. 
This is how I joined the 2 24"-wide poplar boards I'm pictured to the left reclining-on. They are 8'-long. 
Yes, it took me over a day to accomplish it, but the result is a 'perfect' bookmatched joint.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jschaben said:


> clamp your boards together as shown in the sketchup about 7/16" apart. Run a 1/2" router bit down between them. Two edges will be mirror images of each other.:yes:


+1. :yes: That will work if the two boards are first marked across the boards when they are together so when separated the marks will line up. They should be supported to be propped flat . I seam mica this way. The problem with using a router is that very little should be machined off. The bit can leave a small chatter pattern. I use a ¾" straight faced carbide 2 flute bit. 

I would rather do the jointing on the tablesaw, in lieu of a jointer.









 







.


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

Depends on what tools you have at your disposal and how comfortable you are with using them. Today I had to join two 16' lengths of 6/4 rough white oak for a wall side stringer. So ran them through the planer, then chalk-lined one side of each, used a track-saw to get close as possible to a straight edge and a Stanley #8 to true the edges. start to finish about 45 minutes.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I haven't done this...yet*

but if faced with the issue, I would clamp or fasten the boards as close to each other as possible, butting, then make a saw kerf down the joint. I would NOT clamp them together, just down on the bench or horses. Freehand would work or if the joint was fairly straght, use a straight edge from plywood MDF, etc. the factory edge. A full kerf blade would be best.
They should fit together like they were cut from the same board........ :blink: bill

EDITED


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> but if faced with the issue, I would clamp or fasten the boards as close to each other as possible, butting, then make a saw kerf down the joint. I would clamp them together, just down.
> Freehand would work or if the joint was fairly straght, use a straight edge from plywood MDF, etc. the factory edge. A full kerf blade would be best.
> They should fit together like they were cut from the same board........ :blink: bill



I have used my rail saw to do that when I was not in the shop.

It works great, every time though.


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