# Cutting aluminium with a bandsaw?



## Check twice! (Mar 31, 2008)

Has anyone cut aluminium with a bandsaw?

It will range between 1/8" and 1/4" thick stock

1. type of blade required?
2. speed of cut?
3. WATCH OUT FOR THIS?(hazards)

Thanks for any information you may have or opinions!
John


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## smitty1967 (Feb 24, 2008)

Hey John: back in my heavy amateur radio days, I used to build antennas. The design I used most often used aluminum square stock for a bridge, and aluminum tube for the radiating element and the reflectors (these were beam antenna, three, four and five elements).

I used my little bench-top Delta bandsaw regularly for these projects. I couldn't tell you what blade I used, but I do recall that some of the square stock I cut had 3/16" wall...I'd hack it off with a hack saw by hand, then put a nice square finish cut on each end with the band saw...worked out well for me.

hope this helps.
smitty


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## mdlbldrmatt135 (Dec 6, 2006)

I've cut 1/4" T6061 plate on my Tablesaw using an old carbide tooted blade.......... Just a slow steady feed..........


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## Check twice! (Mar 31, 2008)

Thank you gentlemen!

I had never considered cutting metal with woodworking tools, my son said we could use the table saw with the carbide blade reversed..... but,,,, I thought bandsaw. 

Darn we both are right! I can never get ahead of him.

Thanks and have a great day!
John


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hello from the other end of our country.

Using a bandsaw is probably a safer way to go for cutting aluminum, although I have used both approaches. The trouble with using a table saw is the aluminum chips flying every where. The other drawback is that if you get a kickback with a piece of aluminum it could become lethal. With a bandsaw the chips are smaller and better controlled, you also don't have to concern yourself with the possibility of kickback. For cutting aluminum with the bandsaw you should purchase a blade designed for cutting soft metals, and you should have fairly fine teeth. I would guess about 12 TPI. Keep the speed lower than cutting wood, if you have variable speed control.
This should work fairly well for you. Be sure to clean away all the metal chips after you are done so they don't damage your bearings or guide blocks.

Gerry


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## mdlbldrmatt135 (Dec 6, 2006)

Yeah the flying chips are a pain........ But I don't do it that often..... and the 9" bandsaw can;t hack the aluminum. I was making special Jigs for my other Hobby (model building) for myself and a few Friends.........


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## Check twice! (Mar 31, 2008)

Great Gerry!

I let my young one (26) know the bandsaw is the choice of weapons for this duel of "man against aluminium"! 

I guess most non ferrous metals could be cut on a bandsaw, once in awhile. If this was going to be, an on going thing, I would have to find a more suitable solution.

Him and his projects and our shop.... gets interesting at times. Two projects ago we needed a welder (now I know enough welding to make me dangerous) this time a metal brake is in call for, don't figure. 

He does keep me thinking though, and always something new....  Great reason to get a new tool.
Thanks for your help
John


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## coffeetime (Dec 28, 2006)

I hope you don't mind a machinest putting in his 2 cents here. You can cut Aluminium on the table saw with a carbide tip blade PLEASE DO NOT TURN THE BLADE BACKWARDS! The problem with the table saw is that the blade turns to fast, causing heat issues, and yes hot flying chips. Now as for the band saw this is the way to go. The normal speed of a wood cutting band saw is just a little fast but much better then the table saw. As for the blade you do want as many teeth as possable but only so you don't get to much material in one tooth and break the blade. Now for the secret ingredant - WD40! spray it on the blade and where you are going to cut the aluminium. But be very carful as this will make everything very slick. The WD-40 lubercates the aluminium and helps keep the chips cleared out. Of course you will have to clean the whole machine when done to get rid of the WD-40 or it will get into your wood. The WD-40 does not work on any other metal, and don't ask why because I don't know.
This is the way I do it. Please only attempt this if you have the skills and common sense required. I can not be held responsable for your actions.
Yeap, that looks like a good disclaimer.

Mike


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## Check twice! (Mar 31, 2008)

Mike

I do appreciate your input and machinest knowledge. Like alot of us, hobbies require us to think "outside the box" and being metal I am working with, this is not a natural for me. 

I will try the WD40 and I am sure it will work fine, as well as some of the other lubricate ideas, that has been shared with me. I did not like the tablesaw idea from the start and this was why I posted this thread. A blade travelling at such a speed, is an accident waiting to happen, when metal meets metal. I have had a piece of wood knock the wind out of me and a piece of metal could go through me with "kickback".

BTW, I took my zip cut (grinder) and tried some aluminium to see the metal response, "no sparks" and it almost looked like it melted through. My son researched and found the aluminum "kind of melts" on the blade (as he explained to me). Like in wood working metal fabrication is a world of it's own. 

I will be giving this a go this afternoon and and the biggest thing I have learned is "do not be afraid of it, "RESPECT IT", and I am hoping that the aluminium went to the same school.

Everybody has been so helpful with ideas, hints and experiences, I feel I have a good chance for success. My sons "brain storms" never seem to end sooooo... I am sure I will be back with questions like "we want to build a space ship", or "how do you count the fleas on a dog", who knows.

I just know one thing for sure someone here will have the answer, or an opinion, or personal experience. THANKS!

Have a great woodworking day
John


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## Knot Home (Feb 14, 2008)

*Use wax as lubricant*

As a patternmaker I used to cut a lot of 1/2" thick aluminum plate on the table saw. Use a carbide blade (DO NOT INSTALL BACKWARDS!!) and have a helper hit the balde with a stick of wax periodically as you cut. He can also hold a piece of plexiglass just ahead of the cut to keep the chips from flying in your face. Go slow and you'll be fine. 

Roy


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

smitty1967 said:


> Hey John: back in my heavy amateur radio days, I used to build antennas. The design I used most often used aluminum square stock for a bridge, and aluminum tube for the radiating element and the reflectors (these were beam antenna, three, four and five elements).
> 
> I used my little bench-top Delta bandsaw regularly for these projects. I couldn't tell you what blade I used, but I do recall that some of the square stock I cut had 3/16" wall...I'd hack it off with a hack saw by hand, then put a nice square finish cut on each end with the band saw...worked out well for me.
> 
> ...


Smitty,

Sounds like a good beam method of construction!

Did you put the tube inside the square stock for good support or did you mount the tube on the outside of the square stock?

I've been a Ham since abt 1963... don't do much anymore.

Sure wish you could remember what type of blade you used.

Thanks...


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

from another long ago machinist: Just go get a good Starrett metal cutting blade and there will be no problems. That all they use in metal shops to cut metal, aluminum,steel, iron,brass etc. Vertical or horizontal bandsaws. The "keep it a bit slow" speed recomendations are right on.
Pc of cake John :} 
Jack


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Joe this one is for you :}:} .... --.. .----.- -... --. -.-. --.- -.. -..-:laughing:


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

Sky: --... ...-- .... .. 

It's hard to see the spacing...

73,
Joe


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## allthunbs (May 14, 2008)

Hi Check Twice!:

My band saw came labeled "wood/metal" and indeed came with a blade that resembled a fine hacksaw. It is about 3/4" deep. I have to agree that lubrication would also be important. Don't forget to make sure sawdust and other debris is cleared out before you start throwing hot chips around. Slow and steady will get you there.


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## smitty1967 (Feb 24, 2008)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Smitty,
> 
> Sounds like a good beam method of construction!
> 
> Did you put the tube inside the square stock for good support or did you mount the tube on the outside of the square stock?


Hey Joe...sorry about the poor memory. I'm 40 with two boys of my own! I know what my dad went through, I tell ya....

The beam antenna used the square stock as a bridge (or the 'beam'), and the round stock for the elements. I would then use stainless u-bolts to clamp the element to the bridge. The bridge was then secured to the mast (rigid pole, PVC, wooden dowel...I've tried several). The driven element was of course electrically insulated from the bridge. I tried several approaches here, too, the most effective one being an arc of PVC of corresponding size (PVC I.D. that matches the driven element O.D.). Then some rubberized electrical tape and away we go. I made three 6-meter beams, sold one, scrapped the second, and worked both coasts from the third, so I must have done something right...

73's 
N9JPE


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Check twice! said:


> Mike
> 
> I do appreciate your input and machinest knowledge. Like alot of us, hobbies require us to think "outside the box" and being metal I am working with, this is not a natural for me.
> 
> ...


A strong word of caution: Please do not use any kind of grinder on aluminum, or for that matter on any soft metal, however aluminum is particularly bad. The metal is so soft, and has a relatively low melting point, that it literally does melt, and clogs the pores of the grinding wheel. The result is that the wheel loads up, goes out of balance, and can literally explode, sending shards of grinding wheel in all directions, and at high speed.:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown:This is really bad Karma.

Oh, I forgot the other reason I gave up using the tablesaw to cut aluminum. The aluminum becomes very hot, and you are literally being bombarded with semi-molten chunks of metal. Even if you wear eye protection, those little suckers sure smart if they land on unprotected skin.:thumbdown:

Stay with the band saw. Lubrication will certainly not hurt, and will help keep the blade cool.:thumbsup:

Gerry


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## coffeetime (Dec 28, 2006)

Great point to bring up Gerry! If you need to debur aluminuim use a sanding disc or belt sander or you can just hand sand it with sand paper on a block.

Mike


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Sanding discs or belts should be okay, although you may find the abrasive surface will clog up fairly quickly. I've found that a fine file drawn along the edges will deburr aluminum quite effectively.
Gerry


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Joe; - .... ..-. ..-. --- ..-. :laughing:
Man tuff I used to be able to "talk" this stuff been long time since I used it.
Aunt and Uncle were "hams" w4ppq and w4ppr.


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## Graphiti (Mar 29, 2008)

Having cut *ALOT* of aluminum on the band saw, table saw, miter saw, circular saw, etc. I'd say most of the info is dead on. Two points I'd differ about are the TPI and blade sharpness. Don't use an old dull blade, the sharper the better, just like wood. Dull blades will load up and jam in the cut causing a wide variety of dangerous situations including blowing the carbide tips right off. As for the TPI, more teeth are *not* better, you want space between the teeth to keep loading to a minimum, especially on the band saw. If the teeth load up on the band saw, it can cause the blade to jam and snap resulting in the saw feeding the blade right out into your face. 

Also, as with all metal work, wear leather gloves and protective gear simular to that for welding and try to use a jig to hold the work if possible. When useing slow light cuts, aluminum is workable with virtually all wood working tools, I even use my router table to round the edges on aluminum plate. 1/4" roundover takes me about 5 passes and leaves glass smooth surface. 

Just use common sense and care, same as you would working wood, and you should be fine.

As a side note, I've been fabricating with aluminum for more than 15 years and have worked my way up to each technique over time. Working with aluminum is much more dangerous than wood, the cut edges are razor sharp, there is almost no warning when something is going to go wrong, and as mentioned above, the metal chips and dust come off the cut at a couple hundred degrees and burn like heck if they touch skin. 

And I agree, the bandsaw is probably the safest way to cut aluminum, just be careful about blade breakage.
Good luck.
Randy


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

My 2 cents... I tried to cut aluminum plate on the table saw once and the aluminum melted right onto the tips of the blade, almost immediately hardening. After a couple of inches, it was not only impossible to cut but it was burning and smoking. Couldn't get the hardened AL off the blade either. It went to metal recycling.

And once, when I was young, I was gullible enough to believe that FOOLISH MYTH about mounting a TS blade BACKWARDS in the saw....don't even. Dumb myth. Dumb idea. Bad results.


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