# Bench Plane Advice



## high6ix (Aug 13, 2012)

I am relatively new to the world of woodworking. More so on the side of using traditional tools, such as hand planes etc...

I have a Stanley No. 4 Smoothing plane as seen here menards.com/main/tools-hardware/hand-tools/cutting-tools/no4-smoothing-bench-plane/p-1478897-c-9123.htm

Now my question is, what basic planes do I need? I am looking to just minimize the need for a powered plane for some basic planing of items like cutting boards, and basic furniture, coffee tables etc...

I don't buy rough cut lumber that i don't intend to keep rough cut, so it is just basic planing. Thanks for any advice!


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

A common topic.

Lots of earlier threads on the site should provide useful information.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/learning-hand-planes-39645/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/if-you-could-only-have-1-hand-plane-39795/

I would start with these two threads, they may either answer your questions, or help to know what questions to ask.


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## woodbutcher360 (Jul 1, 2012)

high6ix said:


> I am relatively new to the world of woodworking. More so on the side of using traditional tools, such as hand planes etc...
> 
> I have a Stanley No. 4 Smoothing plane as seen here menards.com/main/tools-hardware/hand-tools/cutting-tools/no4-smoothing-bench-plane/p-1478897-c-9123.htm
> 
> ...


I would buy a low angle block plane, a #4 and a #5. Small investment and will do all that you asked about. You can always add to the collection later. (and you will, I assure you :smile


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Since right now you are only planning on doing some basic planing and nothing with rough cut, I would recommend a low angle block like woodbutcher said. I think I would stick with that and your #4 for now and add to your collection as need arises (if you are like the rest of us, you'll probably find the need sooner rather than later


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Sometimes I'll use a 6 on something but, mostly, I use a 4 & 5. I've described the mini planes I use too. They are great for little things and just really handy to have around.

What kind of cutting boards are you planning to plane? I've found that using a belt sander with 120 grit and then the ROS on them is a better way to go. Planing end grain is really hard and with edge grain you run a good risk of tear out as the grains are running in a lot of different directions.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Even non-rough cut lumber needs to be face jointed. Whether you do this before or after a glue up.

You'll find yourself doing a lot less work sanding with the right planes. Obviously you know that being you are asking but to put it in relative terms trying to flatten a table top with a smoother or jack (3-4 or 5) is like starting sanding with 220... It's going to take a long time.

If you are doing small coffee tables and small cutting boards a jack plane (5) is adequate. If you get into the larger items you'll want to start with a larger plane. I have most every size bench plane from 8 to 3 with the 1/2 sizes in between... I mainly use an 8, 5-1/2 and block planes. 5-1/2 are tougher to find so replace that with a 5. If the largest item you'll ever do is a small table replace the 8 with a 6. 

It's all relative. For smaller cutting boards, whether long grain or end grain(true butcher blocks) then a jack or smoother are fine.

For long grain cutting boards or table tops align grain run-out. For butcher blocks work from the edges in to the center.


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## railaw (Nov 15, 2011)

Not meaning to veer off here but it seems right in line with op. I see you suggest a 5 1/2 over a five to the extent available. I have the number four number eight and 27. I only recently discovered that a 27 is equivalent to a six, not a five. The eight and the 27 need work. I have an opportunity to buy either five or 5 1/2, both of which are in pretty decent shape at roughly the same price. I.e. within $10 of each other. Plan on flattening in jointing all the boards I use by hand, as it will be at least a couple of years before I have power machinery. Largest scale project will likely be bookshelves. I don't plan on making any tabletops anytime soon, there's always chance for workbench. Would you recommend going for the five or the 5 1/2? More specifically, why do you prefer the 5 1/2? I don't foresee a scrub plane in my future unless it becomes necessary.thx.

Ps what the diff between Long grain and short grain?


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## high6ix (Aug 13, 2012)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the advice guys, I am going to get a hand plane and a jack plane asap, and start working with them to hone my skills. 

But I do have one question, a topic that has cause me confusion, i see multiple planes referred to as bench planes, but also referred to as jack planes at the same time, and often both. For instance Stanley Bailey® Jack Planes - #5 bench plane 2" x 14", so is this a jack plane or a bench plane or both? What is the important terminology? It is obviously different than what I have.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

railaw said:


> [...]


First I mistakingly wrote "short grain" when I intended to write "end grain."

You are correct about the 27, assuming we are talking about a Stanley or Stanley Liberty Bell it's a transition foreplane or also in the Stanley family No 6 or 806. Generally speaking an approx 18" long bench plane. 

It's the right choice for dressing down a board considering you have no scrub plane. A camber in the blade is important if you'll be using it this way. 

I use the 5-1/2 the most because it's a bit longer, wider an heavier - especially the post war. I work with some pretty reasonably large lumber stock and for the most part, bigger board = bigger plane. I'm not saying a 5-1/2 is a must by any means. I tend to use a jack for rougher work and hence I keep the iron set a bit deeper. I think of the 5-1/2 as my "big smoother," it works amazing well for smoothing large glue-ups after they've been tried (jointed/flattened).

How much are the planes in question? If the 5-1/2 is under $60 and in good shape I'd suggest you snatch it up. 

The important thing to realize when starting with planes is that you don't have to have them all. I recommend to anyone who asks me to start with a jack plane. My first plane was a Record No 5. I learned a LOT with that plane and the experiences from that one plane are still applicable to my techniques and tool selection over 16 yrs later. I feel It's important not to get caught up in the buying frenzy, like I did several yrs ago, prior to having a decent handle on the basics. I've bought some junk over the years because I wanted the "item tittle" and over looked condition and utility. Take your time.




high6ix said:


> [...]


Here's a break down, while over simplified (not to insult) it shows the the progression of plane tool groups and subgroups.

Woodworking tool-Edged tool-Hand plane- Bench Plane- Jack Plane

Bench planes are a group of planes intended mainly for dressing lumber. In the Stanley world these would be No's 1-8. there are 1/2 and 1/4 sizes between a few of them but they all share the same basic design with the major difference being scale.

Stanley Model numbers are just that... one Co's model numbers. The planes had names based on function long before Bailey or Stanley came into the picture. The numbers have since replaced the names to some extent due to familiarity. 

The Proper names for these bench planes are as follows along side the corresponding baseline Stanley Number.

Useless - #1 & #2

smoother - #3 through 4-1/2

Jack - #5-1/4, 5 & 5-1/2 (yes the 5-1/4 is smaller)

Fore - #6

Jointer - #7 & #8

The Scrub is also important to lumber dressing however is not considered a bench plane. The Stanley numbers for those are #40-1/4, #40 & #40-1/2

For more information visit Patrick's Blood & Gore site. It's invaluable in identifying Stanley made planes:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Although I do disagree with a few of the author's opinions on technique / use I really can't argue with one of, if not the most, complete compilation of Stanley planes.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

firemedic said:


> The Proper names for these bench planes are as follows along side the corresponding baseline Stanley Number.
> 
> Useless - #1 & #2
> 
> .


Tom, you did a nice job explaining the different sizes; however, I beg to differ with you when you state that the small smoothers are useless. Take this from someone who doesn't follow rules well; but I use my #2 a fair amount as a block plane with a tote. It is my main tool for chamfering edges and ends of boards. It also it is great to maneuver when trying to deal with tear out where the board has wild grain. That being said, the only reason I don't consider mine a luxury is the arthritis in my hands. It just fits better than a block plane.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I hear ya... we can agree to disagree :laughing:

I don't even pick up a 3, really. Each's own preference :smile: where you been? Haven't heard from you in a while.


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## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

First a little of track so apologies to the OP.

Wrangler sorry to hear about your arthritis heres a tip that may or not help you.

Shipwrights will often use a No3 or 4 as a block plane When cleaning up templates by pulling the plane to them and not pushing it away.

With the stock resting flat on the bench 
Just place the plane in the palm of your hand with the knob on the back of the hand you dont have to hold it, it sits there quite natural.

You can also use this when you have curly grain in the face edge saves changing the position of your body or the stock.

I can use the plane in this mode for hours on end with no fatigue.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

Billy De said:


> First a little of track so apologies to the OP.
> 
> Wrangler sorry to hear about your arthritis heres a tip that may or not help you.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip!! I get along ok with the small smoother used in the conventional manner. Next time, I will try your method, it looks interesting.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

> The Proper names for these bench planes are as follows along side the corresponding baseline Stanley Number.
> 
> Useless - #1 & #2


Well, I don't know about my plane... but at least *I* am a _NUMBER 1 WOODWORKER!!! 
_


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