# jointing without a jointer



## chsdiyer (Dec 12, 2011)

I have some 8/4 rough walnut i'm trying to make into a countertop and was wondering how I can joint the edges. Could i clamp a straight edge on the face and run the router down it with a straight bit. Since the straight bit is not long enough for the full thickness, if i flip the board, and then go back with a straight bit that has a bearing on it, would that joint the edge? Then do the other side on the table saw. 

I also saw a clip where someone clamped a board to their table saw fence and let the saw cut up into it so the board behind the fence was "shimmed out" and used that to joint edges. Does that work well? 

I was also just thinking. I have an electric hand planer and was wondering if I glue a thin piece of laminate or something on the plate behind the blade, would this then make it work as a jointer?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The biggest problem milling the edge for a glue up is the wood is rough. You could get if fairly close using a table saw trimming a little off each side until you get it straight. Then I would finish it with a hand plane. With the wood rough it would be difficult to get the edges correctly square from one end to the other but if you are patient could be done. Just dry fit it with clamps on it and examine the joint on both sides.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*use a straight line jig*

Here's some info as well: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/do-i-need-planer-10105/

Using a table saw as a jointer:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/1-8-rip-table-saw-jointer-19513/

The tip you described will also work. Mount a sacrifical board to the fence, lower the blade, move the board over the blade so it will be exposed on the left side, and raise it the amount of your stock thickness while the power is turned on. You must then add on a thin strip equal in thickness to the offset of your kerf behind the blade at the rear. You are essentially making a jointer table on the side of your fence. 

You slide your stock into the blade and it removes the material a kerf thickness wide. Then the clean portion rides on the strip you added behind the blade.

It sounds more complicated than it really is. :yes: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could joint with a straightedge and a router. That could leave an edge with some chatter. 

To joint on the table saw, a very simple method would be to attach to the subject stock, a straight edge...could be thin plywood or Masonite, so the clean edge rides on the fence, and the edge of the subject stock goes through the blade. 

To attach the straightedge, you can just nail it down on the wood's backside, with 4d finish nails...3 or 4 should be plenty.









 







.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Whip out the #7 and get busy...


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## chsdiyer (Dec 12, 2011)

Thanks for all the info! I ended up going down the street to a woodworking shop to get the boards jointed. One board was a little warped so I needed to get it "fixed" more than just getting the ends jointed. They got the warp out but the end joints didn't like up all that great. I tried planing like Steve suggested where I could see the need and it got fairly close. Problem is, on glue up I think i need more clamps than i had and stronger ones. I have 5 but only two were probably strong enough, the other three bars were bending. 

I put the glue on heavy but tried making it uniform with a sponge brush (i know, not the best idea), and I dont think i had enough in the end (there was not a whole lot of squeeze out). The literal ends didn't get enough for sure and when i let the clamps go, it moved apart a slight bit. I through a pocket screw in there to keep it tight. I haven't examined the job too well yet but i'm wondering. If it looks like there are weak spots, should I add more pocket screws, or should I cut the joints with my circular saw (using a clamped board as a guide) and try again with more glue and more clamps?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the joints should mate up dry*

If there are gaps at the ends that's worse than a gap in the center. If you can run a saw down the glue line it will mate up better. I would not have used a pocket screw, just on principle, since the best and proper joint won't be needing one.  bill


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## chsdiyer (Dec 12, 2011)

thanks bill. Sounds like maybe I should cut it and do the glueing again. I'll check it when I get home today. I should have enough room to spare if i need to lose the 1/4" from two cuts. I ordered a few pipe clamps so this time i'd be better set for clamping.


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## Shavings (May 27, 2012)

When I rip an edge on the t/s that I'm going to glue I use a 8" hollow ground planer blade. Nice smooth edge.
I also will use my Starrett 4' level as a guide (between the fence and stock) I made 1" wide X 2" long tabs from oak to go in the hand slots of the level with 1/4" locking knobs. The tabs extend onto the stock to hold the stock securely against the level. Then set the fence to desired width and feed the stock through holding the level tight against the fence.


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## Larry Sockwell (Mar 18, 2011)

I built this jig based on an idea from Niki, R.I.P. 










It worked well enough to build this tabletop.










More of Niki's stuff.
https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t17581/


Larry


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