# Help with Dewalt sliding miter saw...



## RipD (Jun 28, 2015)

I have a DW717 10" sliding compound miter saw. Bought it about 6 months ago and have been struggling to get square cuts with it. I'm relatively new to wood and figured it was just me being stupid and having bad technique. It still could be that. 

I've read everything I can, including a bunch here, and have tired to adjust it. I just can't get a square cut. I'm talking the simplest possible cut, btw: 90 degrees, regular lumbar. It appears to be off by ~1/16 over 12" 

Here's the real problem I'm struggling with: 

1. The fence seems to be flat. I put straight edge on it and it looks fine.

2. The blade is not square to the fence. No problem - I just loosen the guide and square it up. 

3. When I square it one one side of the blade, it's not square on the other side of the blade. This seems impossible and has me pulling my hair out. If the fence is straight, how can the blade not be square on both sides? 

Am I an idiot? Blind? Both? I have a new square that I'm using. Do I need better tools to measure this? It should not be this hard. 

Thanks for any help. Really hoping I'm missing something obvious. 

Rip


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Squaring the blade*

Rip
To square the blade, there are basically only two check so:
1. Lay your square firmly against the fence and square the blade by pulling the full length of the cut. Without rotating the blade, the blade should touch the square when in the back position and the forward position. 
This assures a 90 degree adjustment. 

2. Stand the square against the table and square the blade up and down. Keep the square off the teeth if possible because a carbide toothed blade can give you a mis-alignment. The blade should touch the square at the base of the table and at the top of the blade. 
This assures a 90 degree adjustment. 

If it isn't square after these two adjustments, you must have a bent square or a bent and blade.


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## RipD (Jun 28, 2015)

Toolman50 said:


> Rip
> To square the blade, there are basically only two check so:
> 1. Lay your square firmly against the fence and square the blade by pulling the full length of the cut. Without rotating the blade, the blade should touch the square when in the back position and the forward position.
> This assures a 90 degree adjustment.
> ...


Thanks. I completely agree with you. My square is brand new. I had the same issue with a previous square, so I went and got a new one. Johnson CS10 - 11" on one side, 6.5" on the other. It's possible this square is bent, but I doubt it. 

I doubt the blade is bent because it cuts perfectly smoothly. If it were bent I assume I'd get some rubbing, noise, vibration, a cut wider than the blade, or all of these symptoms. I'm not seeing any of these. 

FYI, I'm using the stock Dewalt blade. I have a new Diablo around here somewhere and can try that just in case. 

So if all those things you listed aren't it, I guess we're down to stupidity on my part? I just can't figure this out.

EDIT: Holy crap - just decided to look at the blade more carefully. It's got just the slightest wobble when I look at it on end. Still doesn't explain my mysterious fence issue, but I need to figure that out first. Will report back after I replace the blade.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

"3. When I square it one one side of the blade, it's not square on the other side of the blade. This seems impossible and has me pulling my hair out. If the fence is straight, how can the blade not be square on both sides?"

It does seem impossible. That is assuming that at least one of the squares that you have used is square. Put the base of each square against a straight edge. Now push the squares together. Do the both touch along the entire face? 

George


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## RipD (Jun 28, 2015)

Ok, brand new blade on the saw. Better, but not perfect. Still seeing some wobble in the blade. Only detectable in the last few revolutions when the brake kicks in. Running it looks fine, but that could be an optical illusion. So could be that all blades are less than perfectly straight, or that my spindle/shaft is not straight. Or maybe a small amount of wobble is to be expected?

I come from a machine shop background (many years ago). If you can see an alignment issue, it's likely WAY off. But then again this isn't a $30K milling machine. Is a little wobble to be expected?


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## RipD (Jun 28, 2015)

GeorgeC said:


> "3. When I square it one one side of the blade, it's not square on the other side of the blade. This seems impossible and has me pulling my hair out. If the fence is straight, how can the blade not be square on both sides?"
> 
> It does seem impossible. That is assuming that at least one of the squares that you have used is square. Put the base of each square against a straight edge. Now push the squares together. Do the both touch along the entire face?
> 
> George


Don't have the other square. One of my "I'll take it!" friends has it. Will go to the store tomorrow and get a new one to check it. 

Part of the problem with this whole thing for me is that I don't have a reference tool and the entire process seems kind of loose. I'm sure it's just me. Some questions if you don't mind: 

- When I see people doing this on web videos it looks incredibly simple: loosen the screws, throw a square down on the table, rotate as needed, tighten, done. The reality for me is that I can't seem to find a position for the bladed where a tooth isn't hitting the square. The way around this is to tilt the square up so that it's on the inside of the blade. I can do that, but it's harder to hold the square and I'm worried about deflecting the blade. Am I over complicating this?

- I got it as square as I can get with the new blade. Still not getting straight cuts, still off by a 1/16", maybe a little more. At this point I have to wonder if it's my technique more than anything. 

- Am I the only one who thinks the clamp on the Dewalk saws is practically worthless? Does somebody make a cam clamp or something similar? Some sort of foot operated clamp would be ideal - that frees up both hands to position the material. I was cutting 8' of 1x12 today - not easy to hold and clamp.

Thanks for the help.

Rip


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

I'm by no means an expert on squaring up a miter saw, but 2 other things I would like to throw at you from reading different magazine articles and other posts. First, check the washer on the outside and inside of the blade for any little burs or other high spots that could cause the blade not to sit flat between the 2 washers. Maybe just run a file around the outside face anyway just to be sure.
Second, have you looked for play in the slide arms that could be causing your alignment problem? Not sure if this could cause your problem,just a thought.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

dirty-curty said:


> have you looked for play in the slide arms that could be causing your alignment problem? Not sure if this could cause your problem,just a thought.


If the tool has play, this could be causing your problem. 
There are several adjustments you can check to basically make sure everything is tight.


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## Justin Huisenga (Apr 2, 2011)

A square will only get you close. To true up a saw I use the 5 cut method and calipers. This article outlines the basic process. My 717 is off .00175 at 90* and .00150 on the miter both sides of the blade at its maximum cut capacity. Close enough to perfect for wood.

http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/07/23/miter-saw-tune-up/

The stock blade on a Dewalt saw is suitable for cutting framing lumber and not much else. Diablo blades are not much better. They have an industry nick name of "Diwoblo". The run out you see as the blade winds down is either the blade or the arbor bushing. The arbor bushing is the blade clamp on the right hand side of the blade. This part on all DeWalt saws is soft and can bend easily if a cut gets jambed. As mentioned before check the arbor washer for burrs or sap build up and check the arbor bushing for build up front and back. 

When I've had this problem it was almost always in the fence. The only other time I've had this was on a DW780 where the blade/saw head wasn't parallel to the rails. There is no adjustment for this. I returned the saw and its replacement was fine. 

For a sliding miter saw the 717 isn't bad. For accuracy I still prefer fixed saws. Fewer moving parts and fewer chances for something to go out of adjustment.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

1. try to square the saw without sliding first, lock it back. take the slides out of the equation.
2. adjust the saw to the cut, not the blade. most saws have some amount of wobble, but it is the cut that you want to be square.
3. this process requires a jointer and a straight edge. you need a board with straight edges, ran over a jointer. mark one edge for reference.
4. make a 90 degree cut in the middle. after the cut, flip one board over so the two cut ends meet, but one is flipped. hold the boards against a straight edge - this will double the saw error and make it easier to adjust. no square needed.
5. when you can make the cut, flip one and put them back together, and the two boards form a straight line, you have a 90 degree cut.

if using a square, you need to find one that is accurate. unfortunately, new doesn't mean accurate. you can spend hours "chasing square" btdt


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## RipD (Jun 28, 2015)

dirty-curty said:


> I'm by no means an expert on squaring up a miter saw, but 2 other things I would like to throw at you from reading different magazine articles and other posts. First, check the washer on the outside and inside of the blade for any little burs or other high spots that could cause the blade not to sit flat between the 2 washers. Maybe just run a file around the outside face anyway just to be sure.
> Second, have you looked for play in the slide arms that could be causing your alignment problem? Not sure if this could cause your problem,just a thought.


Good suggestions and certainly can't hurt. Will check tonight.


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## RipD (Jun 28, 2015)

Justin Huisenga said:


> A square will only get you close. To true up a saw I use the 5 cut method and calipers. This article outlines the basic process. My 717 is off .00175 at 90* and .00150 on the miter both sides of the blade at its maximum cut capacity. Close enough to perfect for wood.
> 
> http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/07/23/miter-saw-tune-up/
> 
> ...


I read about that issue with your saw, and it's why I posted here.  I doubt I have that same problem you do - I need to eliminate everything else first. 

And yeah, the cuts I'm getting from that Diablo are pretty ragged. I bought this saw to do a bunch of landscape work. I knew it wasn't square but was close enough. I needed a do-it-all saw, but I expect much better accuracy than this. For furniture or other precision work I agree fixed saw would be better. 

Right now I'm doing 1x12 butts - that 1/16" difference is huge.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

TimPa said:


> 1. try to square the saw without sliding first, lock it back. take the slides out of the equation.
> 2. adjust the saw to the cut, not the blade. most saws have some amount of wobble, but it is the cut that you want to be square.
> 3. this process requires a jointer and a straight edge. you need a board with straight edges, ran over a jointer. mark one edge for reference.
> 4. make a 90 degree cut in the middle. after the cut, flip one board over so the two cut ends meet, but one is flipped. hold the boards against a straight edge - this will double the saw error and make it easier to adjust. no square needed.
> ...


How do you make a cut with a sliding miter saw with the head locked back?

George


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

GeorgeC said:


> How do you make a cut with a sliding miter saw with the head locked back?
> 
> George


On my Makita I turn the inside knob on front of saw, locks head in any lateral position.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

FrankC said:


> On my Makita I turn the inside knob on front of saw, locks head in any lateral position.


With the head locked how do you make a cut? My sliding miter saws head moves to make a cut. With the head locked no cut can be made.

George


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> How do you make a cut with a sliding miter saw with the head locked back?
> 
> George


the dewalt saw head pivots up and down to make a cut, and also slides on rails for wider cuts.

you may be referring to the head pivoting up and down, which obviously has to happen to make a cut, you are right.

my recommendation was to "lock it back", the dewalts have a lock knob that when locked, prevents the head from sliding on the rails.


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## asevereid (Apr 15, 2012)

As a follow up to the two previous posts... With the rails locked, and with a 10" saw, you should still be able to produce the 5 cut test with up to 4-1/2" stock. 
Not the most accurate, but it'll help you dial in your chops.


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## RipD (Jun 28, 2015)

asevereid said:


> As a follow up to the two previous posts... With the rails locked, and with a 10" saw, you should still be able to produce the 5 cut test with up to 4-1/2" stock.
> Not the most accurate, but it'll help you dial in your chops.


Was hoping to get through 5-1/2. If not I'll need to rip something to 4-1/2. When I flip the ends it should still be pretty obvious if I'm off.

Once I get that locked in I'll start working on the slide. Other checks mentioned here are also TBD. Hoping to get to it tomorrow when I'm off work. Need to find some jointed stock today. Will report back.


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

I realize this is 3 years old but I am having the exact same issue...How did you resolve this? 

left side squares ok, but right side is just a hair off...

any ideas?



RipD said:


> I have a DW717 10" sliding compound miter saw. Bought it about 6 months ago and have been struggling to get square cuts with it. I'm relatively new to wood and figured it was just me being stupid and having bad technique. It still could be that.
> 
> I've read everything I can, including a bunch here, and have tired to adjust it. I just can't get a square cut. I'm talking the simplest possible cut, btw: 90 degrees, regular lumbar. It appears to be off by ~1/16 over 12"
> 
> ...


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## Kmajik7 (Oct 26, 2018)

Did you ever find a solution to this problem. I just got my Dewalt DW717 yesterday and its the EXACT same case with mine. About to pack it back up and send it back.


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## Kmajik7 (Oct 26, 2018)

I have the exact same issue... how did you solve yours!


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## vdotmatrix (Jul 28, 2014)

Sorry I am just seeing this...I packed it up and took it to the service center after they wanted to do all these ridiculous things to solve the problem, they realized that it would only make sense to give me a new saw without warranty so they did...it came in the mail a few days later...Take it to a cervice center and show them


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