# Cutting 1/4" AL



## Jackfre (Dec 23, 2009)

I occassionally have need to cut AL for jigs or whatever and I have a heck of a time with it. I am going to take a run at Mr Neil's tapering jig and need to cut some AL . So, what do you all use? Tablesaw, bandsaw, circ saw? What blades? Do you find that AL shavings into the table or band saw affect the saw? Thanks!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Bandsaw*

Bandsaw with a fine tooth blade, 6 TPI. You can use a metal blade with less teeth but with out coolant doesn't work. The higher speed of the woodworking saws heats up the AL and it tends to stick in the gullets of small teeth. That's what I use 6TPI reg set wood blade. I've cut it on the table saw but it's kinda scary, noisy, and you have to take incremental cuts. :thumbsup: bill


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## falbergsawco (Nov 25, 2009)

There's a million ways you could do it, but the most practical way, over-all, that I've found is to do it with a jig saw and a spray bottle. Draw a magic-marker line, keep it wet with water. Easy clean up, safe, cheap, no elaborate set-up. File the edges first and last to avoid burr cuts - very annoying. Bosch jig saw and 318-B blades :thumbsup:


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

The old hand held hack saw.

Sawsall with metal blade and go slow.

How big? straight cuts? Curves?

Die grinder with cutoff blade?

I cut a lot of 1/8th and just use the old hack saw.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

BHOFM said:


> The old hand held hack saw.
> 
> Sawsall with metal blade and go slow.
> 
> ...


Hack saw and sawsall are good answere. Also good questions.

An angle grinder with a metal disk is also good.

Of course you could buy a Dual Saw and then send it to me when you are finished.

George


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

falbergsawco said:


> There's a million ways you could do it, but the most practical way, over-all, that I've found is to do it with a jig saw and a spray bottle. Draw a magic-marker line, keep it wet with water. Easy clean up, safe, cheap, no elaborate set-up. File the edges first and last to avoid burr cuts - very annoying. Bosch jig saw and 318-B blades :thumbsup:


Depending on what I'm cutting it for, I use the above method. Sawzall for stock cut off and rougher stuff.


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## falbergsawco (Nov 25, 2009)

"Sawzall for stock cut off and rougher stuff." 


I meant to say that.:icon_smile:


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## Jwolf24601 (Dec 4, 2009)

falbergsawco said:


> There's a million ways you could do it, but the most practical way, over-all, that I've found is to do it with a jig saw and a spray bottle. Draw a magic-marker line, keep it wet with water. Easy clean up, safe, cheap, no elaborate set-up. File the edges first and last to avoid burr cuts - very annoying. Bosch jig saw and 318-B blades :thumbsup:


I do the same, go slow and keep the bit cool.


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Aluminum*



Jackfre said:


> I occassionally have need to cut AL for jigs or whatever and I have a heck of a time with it. I am going to take a run at Mr Neil's tapering jig and need to cut some AL . So, what do you all use? Tablesaw, bandsaw, circ saw? What blades? Do you find that AL shavings into the table or band saw affect the saw? Thanks!


You can use your circular saw with a sharp carbide blade. Just make sure you wear a face shield or safety glasses using this process. I worked at a company several years ago where we used a circular saw to cut 3/4" thick aluminum sheets to smaller sizes before sending them to the mills.
Bandsaws work also if using a fine tooth blade and let the blade do the cutting. Don't force it. Depending on how much time in the cut you are going to be, you may want to take breaks to let the blade cool off as the bandsaw blades are thin and will build up heat faster than with wood.
I would not recommend using a table saw unless you have a zero clearance insert.
I have cut aluminum angle on my table saw but it was not 1/4" thick. It was closer to .06".


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## Dinty (Dec 31, 2009)

I have cut aluminum stock up to 1/2" inches on my table saw. Have cut material from dead soft 1/8" to 1/2" as well as 6061 (half hard) up to 3/16" for brackets & fittings for aircraft usage. Use a carbide blade, feed steadily and it cuts smoothly and safely. If you compost your saw dust - clean the machine out before and after sawing (i.e. - don't use mixed wood & aluminum dust for compost) if you burn it for shop heat in an old drum burner the aluminum should cause no problem.
Let the blade do the cuttiing - if you force it - or go to slow you will get an edge burr. Watch your setup, don't forget the safety glasses, use feather boards side & top, watch where you stand - a kickback will leave a mark.


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## interceptor (Feb 6, 2010)

I've used my miter saw as well as table saw for aluminum from time to time, used candle wax for a blade lube on a carbide blade and take my time. Don't let the finer aluminum cuttings get into your motors, can raise heck with the commutator and brushes as they're very conductive.


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## ~WoodChuck~ (Jan 17, 2009)

i use my chop saw to cut aluminum. Usually cutting 3/4" solid dowels for balusters. I use a carbide blade. You don't need to lubricate. Aluminum is a very soft metal and can be cut easily. If you are only cutting stuff to length you will be fine.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I have cut 3/8" soft aluminum with an old RAS. There is no reason it couldn't be cut with a table saw. I know that many machine shops use router bits to do the edge treatment on aluminum. (Round over or chamfer)

Just be slow and easy with lots of push pads, push sticks and feather boards. 

BTW - If you clamp a guide on your table saw fence that leaves about 1/16" of space above the aluminum it helps to prevent kick backs. A straight piece of hardwood would work very well. (3 or 4 Clamps)


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## mdlbldrmatt135 (Dec 6, 2006)

I've used my TS to cut up to 1/2" plate and my Chop saw to cut 1.5x1.25" barstock. A decen carbide blade and a slow steady cut is all you need....


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Milwaukee portable bandsaw. Amazingly useful tool. Makes quick work of cutting metal.


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## smithingman (Jan 8, 2010)

I used to work in a machine shop running an abrasive water jet-we cut a lot of aluminum. I cut plate from 3/16"to 1-1/2" thick with a cheap circular saw with a decent carbide blade-no problem. Just go easy or you'll burn up the motor-I did that several times.Good luck, 
Mark Emig


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## Dejure (Sep 2, 2009)

I used to work for Keyport Naval Torpedo Station in Washington. Though I was in charge of certain electron control devices, some of my friends worked the metal shop, where I'd go visit them. Since it was a government installation, it had a lot of nickels at its disposal. One room was filled by a laser capable of cutting five inch thick aluminum (keep in mind, this was the seventies). In spite of the neat and pricey toys, they had a Unisaw that was their go to saw for cutting thick plate in small quantities. It wasn't anything unique, it just ran a good fine tooth carbide blade. Of course, it didn't have any protection over the blade and you didn't get within ten miles of it without eye protection when it was doing its job.

I just cut some 3/8"x1-1/2"x60" aluminum stock down to 3/4" strips for miter guides. Seven bucks for the initial piece and I have three miter strips for future jigs at a fraction of the price it would cost me down town. 

For the cut, I just used a carbide tooth circular saw blade. A forty tooth ten inch blade would work fine too. In either even, use a feather board to maintain the dimensions of your miter guide.


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