# lapping films and metal abrasives



## bob talk (Jan 17, 2012)

Hello all. 
I've been delving into the world of sharpening and in turn, the world of sandpapers and lapping films. I've come the the particular issue of lapping the backs of blades / creating primary bevels / and lapping plane soles. In other words, I'm looking into systems that can remove metal fast on a flat plane and is durable. 

So in researching sandpapers and lapping films I've come across 4 main abrasives: _Aluminum Oxide_ (most common sandpaper), _Silicon Carbide_ (commonly used in scary sharpening), _Aluminum Zirconium_, and _Diamond_. (And occasionally blends with ceramic or chromium). So what's the best!?
I'll just give a brief summary of why one might be best from what I have found.

*Aluminum Oxide-* Probably the cheapest, easiest to find with PSA backing and in rolls, and high quality ones (like a stearated open coat - 3m or Norton) might do the trick just fine. http://directbuyautobodysupply.com/AWSCategories/p/49/PSA Stick Continous Roll Sandpaper

*Silicon Carbide-* This seems to be used mostly as wet/dry and as a finer abrasive such as with scary sharp, and is more costly. But I've also read that it may be more durable and quicker cutting, creating more sharp bits as the grit breaks down. Both things I'm looking for, and maybe money saving in the long run. http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/...shop&Product_Code=ST-MAF.XX&Category_Code=THS

*Aluminum Zirconium-* This one is very interesting as some sources indicate it is by far (save diamond) the most durable and fastest cutting for metal. Hard to find in the proper sheet or roll format (mostly is in disks). Used in machine grinding applications. http://www.woodworkingshop.com/category.aspx?id=22&f4=ALUMINUM+ZIRCONIA

*Diamond*- Obviously very hard but expensive, so probably not practical for lapping plane soles but maybe blades. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=68943&cat=1,43072 


I'm open to the idea of course grit stones, be it diamond or whatever, but I figured that in order to have a system that would be most versatile (allows me to do large work like lapping plane soles and heavy shaping like forming specialty bevels) that film on a glass or granite slab would be best and cheapest. (For edge honing I use Norton Water Stones.)

Thanks to any discussioners!

-T


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## truckjohn (Oct 31, 2011)

Aahhhhh Yes... Welcome to the Sharpening rabbit hole! How deep do you want to climb in?:thumbsup:

I started off with the Scary Sharp system - as it's a very low initial cost... Results wise - it's pretty darn effective, though time consuming...

I eventually went to diamond sharpening stone plates.... as they are far less hassle....

Silicon Carbide will work just fine to sharpen tools up to stuff like M2 and the CPM high speed steels.... They just sharpen more and more slowly as you get to that stuff....

I tried aluminum oxide - didn't have much luck with it except on the old fashioned plain carbon steel blades...

I actually bought the "Automotive" grade Silicon carbide sandpaper at the local parts store... A little water will keep it stuck down to your granite plate.... I went up to 2,500 grit papers - and got a "Scary Sharp" edge....

In the end... Remember this....
Sharpening is a means to an end... The goal is to work wood.... There are many ways to get them sharp and get back to work.... and it seems to me that sharp enough is sharp enough...

Thanks


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## cork4:@gmail.com (Feb 13, 2012)

I fooled around with about every thing that's on the market today regarding sharpening diamond plates,micro abrasives , sandpaper up to 2500 grit , glass 1/4 in plate, honing guides for plane irons and what ever else their is,then one day I purchased the work sharp 3000 and can honestly say I haven't looked back, if you want scary sharp irons and other tools with A mirror finish and razor sharp this is the tool for you,it is very accurate, and now through woodcraft you can buy A diamond system for the machine don't have that yet but I WILL. Ken householder.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

I use DMT stones and a Norton oilstone.

For that finish toi a mirror polish I use a 3-M product in a quart squeeze poly bottle made for dark autobody polishing. It's aluminum oxide in suspension I got for about $40.00 

I squirt some on a stick of wood a few feet long. 
Then I just take long smooth strokes and lickedy split I have a mirror polish and an edge that can split atoms.


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