# Jointer



## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I stumbled upon what I think is a pretty good deal today. I picked up a Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer on CL for 50 bucks. Mod # 113.20680. Best I can tell it was made in 1976 by Emerson. As you guys may know from earlier posts, I know nothing of jointers except that I need one (I just bought a load of rough lumber). I know I still need a planer but will keep hunting for a deal. This jointer looks practically new for its age. Everything seems to work real well. It does have some very minor surface rust on the bed and fence. What is the best way to remove that? I read somewhere that mineral spirits and steel wool works well. So what do you guys think? Did I get a decent deal?


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## sweensdv (Mar 3, 2008)

I'd start with WD40 and some 0000 steel wool to remove the rust.


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## NYwoodworks (Sep 19, 2010)

That's a good price and it is not a bad joiner. I have the same one.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Another question. The belt is in really bad shape. The spare that is hanging on the side there is pretty rough as well so a new belt is in order. I read a lot about folks swithing thier belt driven tools over to link belts. Is there any advantage over a standard v belt on a jointer?


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## AxlMyk (Mar 13, 2007)

PB Blaster and steel wool, or Bar Keepers Friend will remove the rust. WD40 is a water displacer, not a rust remover.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

PB Blaster is a penetrating catalyst. I know it works great for breaking loose rusty bolts and such but I read somewhere a while back that when used for things like what I'm trying to do now, it will continue to penetrate the steel long after you have wiped it all off. Over time it weakens the steel. I dont know if any of that is true or not but it makes since to me so I'm not gonna try it on my tools.

I ran to the store to pick up some steel wool and the only thing in stock was #3 so I opted for scotchbrite pads and WD. It has cleaned up surprisingly well. I think once I hit it with steel wool, it'll look brand new.

Another question. (I'm full of em, lol) I dont have a sharpening system so would it be best to buy a new set of blades or find someone to sharpen the ones that are on it? They actually dont look bad and feel pretty sharp but the previous owner said it has sat for a few years so I figure a sharpening couldnt hurt.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You stole that thing!*

I would give it back to that little ol lady and apologize. :laughing:
By all means get a second set of blades...and learn how to hone your own from these tips. Resetting them is also part of the process, you will need to learn that also.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/search.php?searchid=436419 
Look for my threads on "honing how to"  bill


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Lol, not a little old lady. The guy I purchased it from said he bought it years ago because it was a good deal. He said he paid 75 for it and never used it. He also had a table saw that he sold for 50 bucks. I didnt get too much info on it cause someone beat me to it but it sounded like it was a steal as well. That was also his asking price. I have been in the hospital with my wife the last few days having our new baby girl and he was nice enough to hold it for me so I didnt try to beat him up on his price.

I'll go ahead and pick up a new set of blades. I think I saw they were around 40 bucks.

Any thoughts on link belt vs v belt?

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out. I really need to learn how to sharpen my own tools. Not knowing how to sharpen tools is the only thing keeping me from buying a decent set of chisels.


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## Kirkus (Dec 19, 2010)

I use damp 0000 steel wool and rubbing compound to remove rust from my tool beds (TS and jointer), followed by an application of paste wax.


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

You got a great deal on what I think is a great jointer! I have the same one I paid $120 for without the stand. The reason I paid that much is because mine is brand new! :thumbsup:









Steel wool or a sanding pad along with some WD-40 will relieve you of your rust. Follow that up with some silicone free paste wax (I use Johnson's) where the wood meets the metal and you'll be good to go. Repeat as needed. Also, don't forget to oil your motor bearings at least annually! There should be a small yellow cap at the back end of the motor to drop some oil in (there I use Supco's Zoom Oil).

If you change over to a link belt you'll change them all out! They don't allow as much vibration as a standard V-belt does since they're not nearly as rigid which will make your tool motors and arbors last that much longer due to less stress on the bearings themselves.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I think you got a great deal. I'm pretty anal about what chemicals I use. Removing rust is one that there are a few ways I go about it. Depending on how bad, I might just use a ScotchBrite pad and WD-40. Immediately after wipe down with acetone, or lacquer thinner, and then use Top Cote. Rust can be removed dry with just 600x wet-or-dry silicone carbide sandpaper used dry (wrapped on a wood block), and then follow the regimen with acetone and Top Cote. Or, use either WD-40, or water as a lubricant, and 600x, followed immediately with the solvent and Top Cote. 

I don't use any waxes or silicones on machinery, especially if there is any finishing in the area. As for Johnson's Paste Wax, there's no telling what could be in it. As for wax in general, I consider the purpose of wax and figure it will play heck with what I have to do to wood.












 









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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks guys. I'm gonna try and get this thing cleaned up today. I doubt it will look like Mr Mac's but I think I can get it close. Other than the minor rust this thing looks perect.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

To get back to your link belt question - yes, a link belt will reduce the vibration the machine makes because standard V-belts tend to develop kinks where they sit on the pulley while at rest.

Now, how much you will notice this lack of vibration while face-planing a 5" piece of maple is probably not much! But you may notice more smoothness before that maple hits the blades. If it were my machine and it needed a new belt anyway, I'd go with a link belt.

Good luck with your new tool!

Bill


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

The vibration when turned on now with the old belt is very minimal. I'm actually surprised how quite this machine runs. Again, I'm not familiar with jointers so maybe they are not a loud tool. I'm gonna go ahead and get the link belt for it. I have to order a new set of blades anyhow.

Got her cleaned up today. The WD and the scotchbrite pads seemed to work the best. It isnt as shiny as the one Mr Mac posted but it is perfectly flat and nice and smooth. The fence adjusted to a perfect 90 and seems to hold really well. I'm excited to get a new set of blades and play around with it. Thanks everyone.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Play safely!*

You should get real familar with jointer safety rules..either download a manual or watch some You Tube videos by thintz or others. I don't like "expert village" that much, depends on who shows up that day, and some are less expert than others...JMO. 
Briefly, leave the guard in place at all times.
Never take more than 1/16 " cut until you become real familiar.
Watch for knots that are loose, and they are harder than the straight grained wood so it will change the feed rate.
Don't "push the feed" just let the machine work comfortably.
Check for "loose checks" that may split off while jointing...use only good solid wood. Don't joint plywood, if at all possible..dulls knives quickly.
USE PUSH BLOCKS FOR SURFACE JOINTING
Edge jointing they are not needed unless you can't grasp the work easily...too narrow....then not advisable. 
Support longer work with stands that won't tip over!
Jointers have a fairly high "incident/accident" rating if I recall.
:thumbsup: bill


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I can definately see how an accident could easily happen with a machine like this. I am very safety minded. I dont know how I got to be but I didnt used to be. I guess it just comes with age. Being safety minded and using common sence still cant prevent every accident especcially with an unfamiliar machine. I have watched a few videos on youtube. I'll check into the stuff you posted. Thanks.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

BassBlaster said:


> The vibration when turned on now with the old belt is very minimal. I'm actually surprised how quite this machine runs. Again, I'm not familiar with jointers so maybe they are not a loud tool. I'm gonna go ahead and get the link belt for it. I have to order a new set of blades anyhow.
> 
> Got her cleaned up today. The WD and the scotchbrite pads seemed to work the best. It isnt as shiny as the one Mr Mac posted but it is perfectly flat and nice and smooth. The fence adjusted to a perfect 90 and seems to hold really well. I'm excited to get a new set of blades and play around with it. Thanks everyone.


why don't you get this T9 and rust off I belive sears may have that now. If not







that is the best stuff . It is made by boeing aircraft company . That is what i use It will make metal look like new.


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