# First 'serious' wood working project - Bookcase from repurposed wood



## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Hi All, well I've started my first project few days ago. Plan is to build a bookcase for my nephew and neice who are expecting their first baby - it'll be a gift. 

I found this 30 yr old armoire build in New Orleans - The owners were moving and getting rid of it for FREE. Its built with solid Cypress and larger than the bookcase I'm planning so I figured I'll give it a try. I took it all apart, removed all the nails, cleaned up the dust and cobwebs  already. 

Any suggestions before I start the project? I'm sharing the potential design below. I plan to stain all of it except the roof which will be painted. What kind of joint would you use to attach the roof to the sides?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

The old armoire certainly had nice looking wood. I would attach roof to sides with dado.

I guess you could cut the top of the sides with the appropriate angle but that would not be as strong a joint.

george


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

That Cypress has some interesting grain, the doors look like Walnut.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

GeorgeC said:


> The old armoire certainly had nice looking wood. I would attach roof to sides with dado.
> 
> I guess you could cut the top of the sides with the appropriate angle but that would not be as strong a joint.
> 
> george


I imagine cutting a dado at an angle isn’t easy. I’ll have to YouTube that. I’m thinking it would be easier to cut the vertical side edge at an angle and cut a normal 90deg dado. Does that make sense?


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

SMG said:


> I imagine cutting a dado at an angle isn’t easy. I’ll have to YouTube that. I’m thinking it would be easier to cut the vertical side edge at an angle and cut a normal 90deg dado. Does that make sense?


I wouldn't dado that joint, the picture you show is all butt joints, for that piece, they would be fine.

Nail/glue the shelves, nail or screw the top to the sides.

I would consider a dado for the back to inset into the cabinet, but again, it isn't necessary, the piece in the picture it is probably tacked on the back.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Just because the one in the picture looks cheaply made I would not let that influence how I made it. Definitely no nails and be very sparing with screws.

That dado is not that difficult. You tilt the blades to angel needed. I would also dado the shelves.

George


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

GeorgeC said:


> Just because the one in the picture looks cheaply made I would not let that influence how I made it. Definitely no nails and be very sparing with screws.
> 
> That dado is not that difficult. You tilt the blades to angel needed. I would also dado the shelves.
> 
> George


He will need 3 angled for the top, and they will have to be stopped dados as the top over hangs the vertical pieces.

We agree that dados are the right way to do it, it's just a question of adapting to the skill level of the person building it.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

SMG said:


> I imagine cutting a dado at an angle isn’t easy. I’ll have to YouTube that. I’m thinking it would be easier to cut the vertical side edge at an angle and cut a normal 90deg dado. Does that make sense?


It won't when you draw it out, the dado has to be angled, if you cut it straight the sides of the dado would not have the same angle as the sides of the cabinet.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

shoot summ said:


> It won't when you draw it out, the dado has to be angled, if you cut it straight the sides of the dado would not have the same angle as the sides of the cabinet.


The best and easiest and possibly only way to make angled dados is on a table saw or radial arm saw with the blades titled. I may have done it on my table saw long time ago....?
You can make a wedge shaped base for a router, but that's a whole 'nother thread.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> The best and easiest and possibly only way to make angled dados is on a table saw or radial arm saw with the blades titled. I may have done it on my table saw long time ago....?
> You can make a wedge shaped base for a router, but that's a whole 'nother thread.


I can't recall that I ever have, guess I could look through all of my old throat plates and see...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I wouldn't have used a throat plate for mine, just 6 ft long boards for window "eye brows" for shade and rain deflection. I needed about 10 or so for casement windows on the South side of the house. Made 'em from Cedar. Stained 'em milk chocolate brown. Made an extra one. One failed in the joint, so I need to replace that one.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

GeorgeC said:


> Just because the one in the picture looks cheaply made I would not let that influence how I made it. Definitely no nails and be very sparing with screws.
> 
> That dado is not that difficult. You tilt the blades to angel needed. I would also dado the shelves.
> 
> George


George, I had the same thoughts - The picture is mainly for a reference design. I'd like to make it as high quality as possible. If I Dado all the shelves and inset (dado) the back panel, would glue construction be strong enough? ( I would use screws in the back panel) The side and top panels are 3/4" thick solid wood. I think shelves are 7/8". 

Sorry but I don't follow the 'blade tilt' comment. How would I get an angle dado like that? I tried to search on Youtube, couldn't find any such videos. How about a router, do they make a bit to make the angled dado?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

The dado is a stack of blades and chippers, so it would be the same as tilting the blade(s). When you adjust the bevel or tilt control on the side of the saw it will tilt the blade(s) over to as much as 45 degrees. The dado would be at what ever angle you set it to based on your design. All the other dados will be at 90 degrees to the surface.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> The dado is a stack of blades and chippers, so it would be the same as tilting the blade(s). When you adjust the bevel or tilt control on the side of the saw it will tilt the blade(s) over to as much as 45 degrees. The dado would be at what ever angle you set it to based on your design. All the other dados will be at 90 degrees to the surface.


Thanks, I recently bought a Delta 34-444 and it came with a dado stack - I've yet to use it. I'll give it a try tomorrow.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

You better get some knowledge before you jump right in using a dado. They take 4 to 5 times the "bite" of a single blade, so there's more resistance and more pushing force is required. There are chippers to properly arrange as well. Watch You Tube for instructions first:





Another reliable source here:


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

The OP posted that he purchased a "starter saw", which tells me he might not have a lot of time on a table saw.

Jumping right into a dado, and an angled dado at that, seems like a high risk situation.

OP, please be very, very careful.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Thanks for the videos and safety precautions. I have owned a table saw for about 10 years, so generally aware of the risks. But no experience with dado stacks etc. Will definitely take it slow and practice on scrap pieces. I do have a good cross cut sled, which makes the work piece much more stable. Actually the saw isn't exactly a starter saw. Its a Delta 34-444 contractor saw - I consider my old direct drive craftsman with aluminum top a starter saw


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

SMG said:


> George, I had the same thoughts - The picture is mainly for a reference design. I'd like to make it as high quality as possible. If I Dado all the shelves and inset (dado) the back panel, would glue construction be strong enough? ( I would use screws in the back panel) The side and top panels are 3/4" thick solid wood. I think shelves are 7/8".
> 
> Sorry but I don't follow the 'blade tilt' comment. How would I get an angle dado like that? I tried to search on Youtube, couldn't find any such videos. How about a router, do they make a bit to make the angled dado?


Glue would be very strong. Good luck with the project. 

Now is as good a time as any to learn how to use your dado set. There always has to be a first time.

George


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

Let's talk about dados.

You stated you are going to stain all of it except the roof which will be painted.

You do realize the dados will be visible from the front if you do "through" dados? That's not exactly a demonstration of high quality, visually.

How do you plan to address that?


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

shoot summ said:


> Let's talk about dados.
> 
> You stated you are going to stain all of it except the roof which will be painted.
> 
> ...


I was thinking about that too. I would cut a 1 inch step in front of the shelf and stop the dado 1 nch away from the front. Don’t know the technical term for it, but it should hide the dado slots. Where I stop the dado cuts I would have to chisel out or route the area to make it fit square shelf. I’m guessing that might not be easy.

I would love to build this without any nails or screws if possible (except the back piece). But that may be too ambitious 😄


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Did anyone else notice the small doors and windows on the sides? That adds to the complexity of the project.

I would not recommend through dados for @SMG's proposed bookcase. Instead, consider stopped dados. If he wants through dados, consider edge banding or a face frame to hide the joinery. See my example bookcase with through dados, below.

I prefer to cut dados on a table saw, but for certain dado cuts, the table saw is a poor tool choice and should not be used for dados. Here are examples:

Stopped dados - Table saws leave a long tapered curve that matches the shape of the blade. Sometimes it works, most of the time it doesn't. A table saw would not be suitable to make stopped dados for @SMG's bookshelf.
Crosscut dados on long boards, especially near the ends - It is difficult to move the full length of a long board perfectly straight in a crosscut over a table saw dado stack. Any small twist on the board during the cut could result in a nasty kickback. A router with a guide or a radial arm saw would be much better tool choices for crosscut dados across a long board.
When I want stopped dados, I use a router and a guide jig with a stop block. The jig is just two straight scrap boards with fences to keep them square. See this post:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/recommended-joint.223255/post-2137953

We have a bookcase that was thrown together quickly about 40 years ago. It was made with through dados. It is very strong and sturdy, but it has a crude look because of the through dados. We hide it in our hall closet, where it is practical, but not seen by others.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Tool Agnostic, thanks for the comments. 

"Did anyone else notice the small doors and windows on the sides?" - 
* I don't plan to build those features. *

"Instead, consider stopped dados." 
* So thats what its called . Yes I think thats what I described in my previous post.*

"It is difficult to move the full length of a long board perfectly straight in a crosscut over a table saw dado stack."
* Wouldn't the long board be stable with a cross cut sled? *

" Table saws leave a long tapered curve that matches the shape of the blade."
* Yup agree. Think I'll follow your recommendation of using a router with a stop block. Coincidently I saw some videos yesterday about building this simple jig. *


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

SMG said:


> "Did anyone else notice the small doors and windows on the sides?" -
> * I don't plan to build those features. *


Those features actually really compliment that piece. It's a house, the windows and doors make it...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Another way is to make through dados, a lot easier, then cover all the exposed edges with a very thin veneer ....... which you would want to do anyway IF the boards are plywood from the armoire? If solid wood glued up, then not necessary.

Now as to the design. The version you show is a child's playhouse looking piece, not fine furniture. It has a "playful" look. 
Whether or not you put doors and windows in will definitely affect the look.
A "fine furniture" look would not have a "peaked roof" on it in my opinion.
The wood already has a beautiful stained look, not consistent with a child's playhouse, again my opinion.
It's kinda up to you and your "team" which way to go. 
A bookcase in a child's room should be playful, in my opinion, so mine would be painted in a colorful manner, not stained.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Shoot summa and woodnthings - you make excellent points, agree that much of the 'playful' furniture is painted. I'm trying to gather a bit more info on exactly how this piece will be used by my neice and nephew. I guess that'll help with the design direction. I was going back and forth between two designs actually. Attaching the 2nd option here, I wouldn't use the black screws for assembly, and stop-dado all the shelves including the top shelf. I thought it was an interesting decision to leave out the back cover in the middle section. Not sure I like that.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

SMG said:


> Tool Agnostic, thanks for the comments.
> 
> 1. "Did anyone else notice the small doors and windows on the sides?" -
> * I don't plan to build those features. *
> ...


(See numbers, inserted above.)

1. I agree with the others that the doors and windows in the first design are what make that design so cute and appealing on the bookshelf gift for a baby or toddler.

2. If you use a router to make stopped dados, the ends will be round. There are various solutions to that issue, such as squaring up the end with a chisel or rounding the nose of the shelf to match. Practice on scrap first.

3. A crosscut sled would help, but the entire long board must move evenly and smoothly across its full length. The longer the board, the more likely one end may catch on something and cause problems or a kickback. I started woodworking with a radial arm saw where it is no problem. When I got a table saw a few years ago, I tried doing the same thing, and found the issues. After ruining two long boards and noting the kickback potential, I switched to a router for those cuts and won't try them again on a table saw. To be clear, I make crosscut dados on the table saw often enough; it is a judgement call of the threshold for how long a board is too long to be safe.

4. And ...

(Repeating from above) If you use a router to make stopped dados, the ends will be round. There are various solutions to that issue.
If you do a dado in one pass on the router, one side may be rough because it is a "climb cut." Some people use a narrower router bit and do one side of the dado in one direction, and the other side in the opposite direction. It means setting the guide twice, accurately, for each dado. It also means that a stopped dado end will have a "double round" look and require one plunge.
Some stopped dados (such as ones that are stopped on both ends) will require a plunge. Many straight bits are not plunge bits. Know the difference before you try a plunge with the wrong bit.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Bit of info on dados:




__





Dados 101






sawdustmaking.com


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

SMG said:


> Shoot summa and woodnthings - you make excellent points, agree that much of the 'playful' furniture is painted. I'm trying to gather a bit more info on exactly how this piece will be used by my neice and nephew. I guess that'll help with the design direction. I was going back and forth between two designs actually. Attaching the 2nd option here, I wouldn't use the black screws for assembly, and stop-dado all the shelves including the top shelf. I thought it was an interesting decision to leave out the back cover in the middle section. Not sure I like that.
> 
> View attachment 428432


This design lends it self to "either or" applications. Either a child's room or a teen's room or whatever....If you make the roofs detachable, they can be used in any environment, especially as the children get older and want a more refined piece of furniture. That would definitely be my choice!


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Tool Agnostic said:


> The longer the board, the more likely one end may catch on something and cause problems or a kickback.


I will definitely be attempting stop dados. The sides will be around 48" tall - guess thats not terribly long? The saw I recently bought actually came with a left and right Dubby sled, so I can possibly use both to stabilize the piece. If that doesn't work on a practice piece, I'll have to look into using a router. My guess is stop dados made with a table saw will require more clean up than ones made with a router. I picked up the Makita 18v LXT compact router, and made a simple dado jig yesterday. But found the straight bit didn't reach deep enough to make a dado when you add the jig thickness. How deep can the larger corded models reach?


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> If you make the roofs detachable, they can be used in any environment, especially as the children get older and want a more refined piece of furniture.


 I like the detachable idea - Not sure how to do that cleanly without using glue. Maybe with dowel pins?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

SMG said:


> I like the detachable idea - Not sure how to do that cleanly without using glue. Maybe with dowel pins?


I'd use rare earth magnets, recessed into both the top and the "bottom" of the roof which you'll need to make.
Otherwise a few small trips of sticky tape.
Other than that Velcro strips.
Maybe just some metal pins, but not wood dowels, that fit into holes drilled into the top of the case.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Your router does not have to ride on the jig, it can run beside it as shown here:


Router T-Square


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

SMG said:


> I will definitely be attempting stop dados. The sides will be around 48" tall - guess thats not terribly long? The saw I recently bought actually came with a left and right Dubby sled, so I can possibly use both to stabilize the piece. If that doesn't work on a practice piece, I'll have to look into using a router. My guess is stop dados made with a table saw will require more clean up than ones made with a router. I picked up the Makita 18v LXT compact router, and made a simple dado jig yesterday. But found the straight bit didn't reach deep enough to make a dado when you add the jig thickness. How deep can the larger corded models reach?



There are two ways to make a router jig. Both rely on a sliding fit.
One uses a guide bushing slight larger OD than your straight bit with a channel for the bushing to slide in.
The other uses a much wider channel for the entire router base to slide in.
The channels must have parallel edges, and be a "slip fit" or you will get warbles in your dado, slight deviations that will be visible.
The dado will most likely need to be made in 2 or 3 passes before it's deep enough, A 3/4" wide bit takes a sizeable amount of material out as it makes the pass, so you'll need to make more than one pass.
Plywood is no longer exactly 3/4" thick, rather 23/32" just so you know... and there are special router bits for that size dados.
Another type of jig, like the woodwhisper's version, make the dado an exact fit using two lengthwise passes and a smaller bit:





Stumpy has a pretty cool jig:


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## Biotec (Mar 14, 2021)

good day
as others have go with a router.
you were looking for a router on another page. i have the DW618b3 about $260. look for it also i have seen it used, and open box for $195.
i have done both the router with a jig, by they work great as shown in the above video.
the table saw works well also but take more time and practice to do so. there is a lot of videos on the using a dados blade. on another post you you already have a dado blade.

both will work. i recommend the router.
also if you get a router, get one that you put in a table. also see this link use a delta saw table
good luck


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## Biotec (Mar 14, 2021)

i forgot this link How to Make a Dado Sled for Table Saw there are others @ The Apprentice and The Journeyman woodworking


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Hi All, here is an update on my bookcase project. As a reminder I've included the image again - this is what I'm attempting. A lot has happened and I've already learned a ton. I started cutting the sides and my 'new' Delta contractor's saw did a great job keeping everything square. After cutting the shelves I quickly realized there was significant warp along the edge for the dado slot. There was no way these would fit the dados. I had heard of planers, and in brief I ended up with a 1 yr. old *Dewalt DW735x* for $400. A businessman bought it to remodel his office reception area and never used it again, almost new condition. 

This machine is life changing - I jumped on Youtube and learned to make a sled and shim/hot glue the pieces to get one flat side - flip over and plane the other side - now I have near perfect shelves - In this process I reduced my 0.9" thick shelves down to 5/8", but I think thats plenty thick enough. Did the same for the 48" tall sides - Reduced those from 0.9" to 3/4". The slow speed gives such a nice smooth finish - I would've spent hours trying to sand the old wood. This money was well spent - I can't imagine doing another project without the planer. 

*Dust control *- quite a bit of time spent to get all the fittings and adaptors for the planer, router, delta saw, orbital sander - I have a very temporary but effective dust control for everything. 

*Dado Jig -* Made couple of unsuccessful jigs so far - all because I didn't have the patience to watch and follow some suggested videos ( ha ha). In my last one the vacuum hose was interfering with the jig because wood is too thick. For this project I now plan to make a simple 'T' guide jig. I have a 5/8" straight cut router bit that should work fine. Eventually I'd like to make an adjustable jig as in Stumpy Nubs video. 

*Question - *All the cut edges are sharp. What kind of edge treatment should I do? I got a beginner edge router bit set that has a 1/8" radius bit, but even that seems too much. I just want to knock off the sharp edge but in a consistent way - rather not use a hand sander.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

Yep, one project can teach you a lot.



SMG said:


> I just want to knock off the sharp edge but in a consistent way - rather not use a hand sander.


Do you mean a hand held power sander? I'd go with a hand powered sander, a piece of scrap wood say 3/4 x 3 x 6 inches, a piece of sand paper, 120+ grit, 6x5, your hand holds the paper in place on the long sides. Hold at a 45 degree angle to the edge you want to soften, only takes few strokes.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Bob - Yes I meant a hand held powered sander. I was hoping to use a router bit if possible - I'm sure I'll get a better result. Like a tiny chamfer or radius.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

SMG said:


> I got a beginner edge router bit set that has a 1/8" radius bit


Aka a round over bit, you can buy those individually with a 1/16" radius. I've used them from that size on up to 3/4" or so.

An example, there are other good brands too.




__





Freud 34-100 1/16'' Radius Rounding Over Router Bit (1/4'' Sh


Freud 34-100 1/16' Radius Rounding Over Router Bit (1/4' Shank)



www.routerbitworld.com


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I am enjoying @SMG's updates and posts.

Congrats on getting a DW735x planer. I got a used one a while ago. It was a game changer for me, too.

There are so many options for softening sharp edges. Sometimes it is as simple as a sanding block and moving your wrist to round the edge as you go along. Practice helps.

I have a 1/16 inch roundover bit and use it fairly often. It can yield consistent results with practice. When I first started using it, it wasn't as easy as you would expect to get consistent results. It is very finicky to set the perfect bit depth, and any tips or bumps when cutting can affect the perfection of the edge. Now that I am used to it, I like it.

You can also use a chamfer bit in a router. Setting the bit depth to achieve the desired results can be finicky, too.

Some woodworkers use a hand plane for chamfers and even roundovers. That takes practice, too. Sharpening and setting up a hand plane is another skill to learn. A block plane (a small hand plane) can be a very handy tool in the shop. The smaller ones fit comfortably in your apron pocket where you can pull it out and use it.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

In general, compared to a lot of other woodworkers I'm not a fan of or skilled with hand sanding. Sometimes I use a 1/16" round over bit, but at that small scale you really aren't very aware of the shape, whether it is round or a chamfered 45 degree flat. Doing it with a block of wood and sand paper is very easy and quick. Try it on a piece of scrap with an edge one or two feet long. Stroke in the direction of the edge.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Ok - the following might be a stupid question but here goes. I've cut most all the pieces and sanded with 120 and 220 Grit sandpaper. I'm close to glue-up - question is - Does it make sense to stain and poly BEFORE glue up? Or should I stain / poly after glue-up. Obviously a lot easier to apply the finish before assembly. If I glue up after poly, would the glue work on 'coated' surfaces?


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## Biotec (Mar 14, 2021)

I did a similar project few years ago and I also prestained everything that had to be put together so it would get uniform color the downside was I had to tape all the glue joints before staining or sealing. i did not have good way to the stain after it was done. too many small places to do.

i am sure others will some good ideas to do this.

good luck.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Thanks Biotec, I wonder if there is an easy way to mask the dados.


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## Biotec (Mar 14, 2021)

Sorry to say there is no real easy way.

in the dados. I use 3/4 inch tape for the bottom of the joint. Split the tape for the sides.

maybe the next time I might make blocks that would fit into the bottom of the dado tight and eliminate that part of the taping. also take them out before the stain dries to avoid tare out.


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

OK time for a quick update and a question. This is how far I’ve gotten with the bookcase. My wife and I caught Covid sequentially and I lost about a month on the project. Anyway it turned out better than I expected. I did the best I could with the blind dados. I messed up a bit doing the glue up and ended up with about a 16th inch gap in the front of one of the shelves on the center bottom. 

question: to make the top section of the bookcase I need to make some 30° cuts. I tried tilting the sawblade to the 30 deg. mark but that makes 60° cuts from the horizontal. Is there a way to achieve this with the tablesaw?


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Finally I’m done. This was a gift for our new born neice and we delivered it yesterday. It came out better than I expected amd I learned a lot of new skills. Thanks for all the advice. Things done for the first time:

Dados/blind dados
Using a router
Planing wood
Cutting circles with a table saw


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Nicely done!


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Looks good.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

I missed the circles being cut on the table saw part, but it turned out great!


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

BigCountry79 said:


> I missed the circles being cut on the table saw part, but it turned out great!


Thank you. I saw the technique on YouTube, works pretty well but you end up a tiny hole on one side of the workpiece.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

SMG said:


> Thank you. I saw the technique on YouTube, works pretty well but you end up a tiny hole on one side of the workpiece.


I assumed you meant router, if it was on your table saw please post the link. I'll keep using a band saw and router for making discs, but am curious.

If the small hole is unacceptable for a project you can make a template, put it on the work piece with double sided take, then use a pattern bit in your router.

What is your next project?


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## SMG (Jun 8, 2021)

Bob Bengal said:


> I assumed you meant router, if it was on your table saw please post the link. I'll keep using a band saw and router for making discs, but am curious.
> 
> If the small hole is unacceptable for a project you can make a template, put it on the work piece with double sided take, then use a pattern bit in your router.
> 
> What is your next project?


Bob, I meant 'Table Saw'. I don't own a band saw yet. But here is the method I used and it worked just fine. I made a quick and dirty sled that I don't mind drilling holes into. 




Next project? Thinking about something small to use as Christmas gifts - possibly cutting boards. But I don't know where to get some hardwoods ( looking for Maple, Cherry and Walnut etc.) without paying too much


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