# Turn A Crappy Desk Into A Decent Workbench?



## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Hey there, Everyone:

I have a crappy computer desk. It is pretty stable, but it has some sort of a vinyl covering on it (sorry, am not quite sure what it is), and it is kind of slick, so it is hard to clamp things and keep them from sliding around. 

Is it possible to just screw a sheet of plywood / osb / something else to the surface of it to make it less slippery?

How thin a piece can I get away with? I just don't want to go so thick that it makes the whole top too thick for my clamps to reach.

Thanks in advance.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Just buy a sheet of Masonite either 1/8 or 1/4 inch and put that on the top.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Can you post a picture of it? From that we can come up with some ideas.:yes:










 







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## Dave66 (Apr 6, 2012)

"Crappy desk"? "Mostly stable"? Is it really worth messing with? It will probably get much more abuse as a work bench than it ever got as a desk. - lol


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## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

It is possible, I built a router table from a TV stand lol. But it does need to be quite stable to be a good work bench... Well depending what type of work you'll be doing on it.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks again, Everyone:

I should mention that on my budget, it is either modify this table, or look for CHEAP saw horses and 2 X 4s. I thought modifying this would provide me with a more stable platform than sawhorses.

Here is a photo of the table:










It is sound physically. the surface is level. (there's a lot of sawdust on it at the moment, if you are wondering what all that yellow stuff in the front right hand side is).

Here are the *dimensions*:

30-1/2 inches tall

40-1/2 Inches wide

18-1/8 inches deep

3/4 inches thick material for top and sides.

has a pullout keyboard shelf that slides in and out smoothly. thought I could modify it to hold tools / screws / etc by putting some sort of retaining strips on it (or by gluing a very low "cubby" box to it.

Also, if you look on the right side you will notice that there is a convenient little board for creating a separate section where one would normally put their computer. could I make some small shelves there as a place to keep tools and other stuff?

*Stability*:

Front to back, it is very stable (give it an A in terms of stability)

Side to side, it is pretty darn stable (maybe a B or B+). If I needed it more stable, could I screw / bolt some 2 X 4 from one side to another (I guess you might call it a cross bar) to make it more stable from side to side?

*Purpose*:

Primarily, I would use it to crosscut 2 X 2, 2 X 3, and 1 X 12 soft and hardwoods with my circular saw and jigsaw. Also, I might use it to rip some sheet goods as well (maybe some 4' X 4') with my circular saw.

Also, I would use it with my hand saws and since I don't have a drill press, I would like to have some place to hold my material when I use my electric hand drill.

Oh, and transportability is not an issue for me. Won't be moving it.

Will the little overhanging "lip" be a problem? The top (purposely) extends past the sides by 1/16th of an inch. Should it be flush with the sides? Or does it not matter? 










What type of vice could / should I mount on it? Or should I just stick with clamps?

thanks in advance.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

One more thing:

Since the whole reason i want to modify this table is to make it less slippery, instead of mounting something on there, can I just sand the surface with some rough grit sand paper to remove the smooth finish on the top? If so, what grit of sand paper can I use? (I am sorry I don't know the exact material they used for the surface, but it is kind of slick).

thanks in advance.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Nice to have the picture.

I personally would not have a problem with a "slippy" surface. I frequently clamp on a piece of UHMW material, or a piece of shiny paper.

The paper in on top of the granite slab, and the UHMW sheet is underneath the granite slab.









The benefit of your present surface is that glue will not stick to it.

If you want to temporarily minimize the clamped items moving, try putting masking tape on the bottom of the wood in the area where you are clamping.

The 1/16in lip should not be a problem, unless you were attempting to clamp something vertical on the front of this table, but I do not expect you will be doing so, you would need long clamps. 

You certainly could make shelves for the compartment which used to house the computer.

This table will be high for sawing duty.

Saw horses are lower.

I have saw horses which are made from 2x4. I designed these to be adjustable for height. If you are interested in making some saw horses, let me know and I will take some pictures.

These do not have fancy joints, but the legs are cut to the desired angle.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks so much for the response, Dave:



> I personally would not have a problem with a "slippy" surface. I frequently clamp on a piece of UHMW material...


will have to look up what UHMW means exactly.



> If you want to temporarily minimize the clamped items moving, try putting masking tape on the bottom of the wood in the area where you are clamping.


thanks for the tip!!!



> This table will be high for sawing duty.


that's what I thought too, but now I am not so sure... I am 6 foot 3 and i have sciatica, so it is hard for me to bend over. Back when I was looking into the possibility of table saws, I was thinking to myself that they looked awful low and might be hard on my back.

also, if I get into hand saws, I would take a serious look at the pull saws, where maybe my body angle is different?

*One more thing*: Maybe it is the _*clamps*_ and NOT the table that is too slippery?!?!?!

I am trying to use some of the irwin quick clamps / face clamps and maybe the rubber bit that actually rests against table and material is too slippery?

thanks again.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

UHMW = Ultra High Molecular Weight
This material is often used for non-stick surface on things like table saw fences.

I have found that the quick grip clamps and pipe clamps do not clamp PARALLEL, so you may be experiencing movement due to the design of the clamp.

I have fought with this on many a project, before I decided to "bite-the-bullet" and get some parallel clamps.

If I need to use the quick clamps or the pipe clamps, I end up having to pay attention to alignment and may need to use extra clamps to ensure the pieces do not move while I carefully increase the pressure.

I am only 5 ft 7 in, so I can imagine your desk may be a better height for you than it would be for me. 

I have a pull saw. I rarely use it. I think I have used the push direction for so long, I have "muscle memory" and I do not find the pull saw as easy to use as it should be.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

> I have found that the quick grip clamps and pipe clamps do not clamp PARALLEL, so you may be experiencing movement due to the design of the clamp... I end up having to pay attention to alignment and may need to use extra clamps to ensure the pieces do not move while I carefully increase the pressure.


Thanks for pointing that out. i will pay special attention to that.

although, now that I think about it, that kind of eliminates the whole "quick" part about using the quick clamps... :huh:


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Why not just try using it as is?
Then if you want it rougher, take some 80 grit to the top.
Then if you want, screw a piece of ply or mdf to the top. I would use double thickness on the top, and overhang the orig top about 2-3" for clamping all around.

I really think you could make a 2x4 table base, and a 2 or 3 layer top, and be far ahead of the game.
The computer desk, doesn't look like it will hold up to much shop work.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Hi there, pirate, and thanks for chiming in:



> Why not just try using it as is?


Well, that's what I have been doing, and my workpieces just keep slipping around - kind of scary when you are a newbie using a circular saw...



> Then if you want, screw a piece of ply or mdf to the top. I would use double thickness on the top, and overhang the orig top about 2-3" for clamping all around.


That sounds like a good plan. I hadn't thought of that. Thanks!



> The computer desk, doesn't look like it will hold up to much shop work.


yeah, I can see your point, although it is sturdy (I would have no problem jumping up and down on it repeatedly - and I am 6' 3" and weigh 210 pounds).

the other thing was that if I don't find some use for it, it is probably just going out on the sidewalk - or a lnadfill somewhere.


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