# My first mallet



## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

After viewing all of the finished pieces from the recent mallet swap, I decided it was finally time to make one. After seeing what I've got so far, there will be no question as to why I didn't partake in the swap...

I am using the "plans" found in FWW issue #230. I put "plans" in quotes because they aren't super descriptive. It is supposed to be an all hand tool build, but I don't have the skills for that yet, so I'm doing as much by hand and the rest with power tools.








I started by glueing up the head and handle. Head is walnut sandwiched between two pieces of maple. Handle is cherry sandwiched between two pieces of walnut.














I then jointed and planed the handle to thickness...








... and after squaring the head, I laid out my mortises.








more to come.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I drilled out the waste at the drill press.








Then squared the mortise using a square block on my scribed lines, and my new set of Narex chisels I got for Christmas. I finally had a chance to sharpen all of them and figured this was the best project to break them in with.








The mortise is also tapered from top to bottom, which is extremely difficult for someone with limited hand tool experience/skill. I botched this royally.








I laid out and cut close to my lines on the handle.








This is my first dry fit. It's in there, but the taper on the mortise needs a whole lot of work. I still need to final sand everything and shape the handle with a lot of planing and sanding.








It feels great and even though it's far from perfect, it's my first mallet and I will cherish it always. Hopefully I can get the fit dialed in a lot more so the handle fits nice and tight in the mortise. The plans call for no glue to hold the two pieces together, and my last resort will be to cut some kerfs in the top of the handle to drive wedges into in order to hold the thing together.








If you have any pointers or advice on fitment or finish, I'm all ears!!

Sean


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

While you knock your project, I say its far better that anything I could do, at least with my current skillset.

I have been wanting to build one as well. I am thinking of doing the following to make this a little easier for me:
- Cut out handle to finished size, except keep about 1/4" long on mallet end.
- Cut mallet pieces all about 1'4 long/wide
- Ensure the middle mallet pieces and the handle are exactly the same thickness.
- glue up all pieces with handle in place
- Trim mallet head using whatever saw works  (miter for sides, maybe top, etc)

This will allow for me to not have to do a MT, which I don't have the ability for at this point. WHile this might be a cheater method for me, it does get me there.


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## johnmark (Jul 21, 2012)

awesome man. 

i just made my second mallet a few weeks ago. My first was definitely not the most beautiful thing. second one either. my second one was the same style as yours, though i had stock large enough to do the head in one piece.

anyways. know that when chiseling out the mortise the most important thing is where the handle will come out and go in, so the part you don't see doesn't have to be perfect. if you have a long chisel or some kind of straight edge check that the matching corners can be touched by the chisel from one side to the other. just stick the chisel in and see if there's a gap or if it sits right into both corners. it may rock on some wood that needs to be removed. if that wood wasn't bumped out, but a bump in, it would be out of the way for the chisel to sit cleanly in the corner. that's not a mistake that you can see, so let's just call that a secret. 

also know that when using a mallet, you swing it with all different types of strength and speed. most times i am choked up near the head when i deliver a blow to my chisel. you'll want the handle to feel comfy in many positions.

this link is the video version of the original article you posted. if you don't know about the woodwright's shop and have hopes of using all hand tools, start to fall in love now. 

http://video.pbs.org/video/2365021538/


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Burb said:


> While you knock your project, I say its far better that anything I could do, at least with my current skillset.
> 
> I have been wanting to build one as well. I am thinking of doing the following to make this a little easier for me:
> - Cut out handle to finished size, except keep about 1/4" long on mallet end.
> ...


Don't worry, I cheated the whole way through. Used my jointer and drum sander to true things up. Cut all the tapers at the bandsaw and the curved part of the handle on the scroll saw (had my resaw blade on the bandsaw). I also plan to use my oscillating belt/spindle sander to further shape the handle.



johnmark said:


> awesome man.
> 
> i just made my second mallet a few weeks ago. My first was definitely not the most beautiful thing. second one either. my second one was the same style as yours, though i had stock large enough to do the head in one piece.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I think I had a couple of pieces that would have been big enough for the head, but the contrasting woods will hopefully distract the viewer from all the flaws. I fell in love with the thing on the first dry fit, and I plan to smooth over the handle all the way up to the head. I am really liking the fact that it provides such a large striking surface, but is also pretty light compared to my Eastwing. 

I have been using my 22 oz. framing hammer through this build, and once I picked up the new mallet I instantly hated myself for not making one sooner. I do watch the Woodwright's shop every weekend, however I don't have any hopes of all hand tools. I like having a nice balance between the two, however my hand tool side is still lacking. I feel more accomplished if I can do it by hand, but I like knowing that I can at least finish a project with power tools if needed.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

*Mallet*

Looks nice now you are ready for the next swap What ever you do don't put a spline in it the slight taper will more than hold any force that you can put on the head. If for some reason you either break ( highly unlikely or want a new head you will be able to swap it out ) Also popping the handle off makes it easy to carry if you are short on space in a tool box. 

Jerry


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

That's a nice looking mallet and should serve you for years.

Here are some ideas on making further mallets:

In making up some mallets for the mallet swap, I discovered (found plans on the web) a couple of shortcuts to cutting the M&T and still using a taper in the head. 

Cut the taper in the handle first, then use it to mark the angle on the center piece. Cut the excess off the center piece. Then when you glue up, don't glue all pieces at once, glue the two center pieces to one of the outside pieces and use the handle for a spacer while you clamp. Once it is clamped in place, remove the handle and wipe up glue. Once dry, glue the other outside piece on and clean up glue on the inside so your handle will still fit well. Using this method, made sure your handle and the center pieces are exactly the same width. 

If you have one, a spoke shave is the ideal tool for shaping handle. If not, use router, files, spindle sander or whatever to shape it.

I prefer a less blocky shape to the mallet. To make mine, I used a block plane and smoothing plane to round the outer sides of the head and give it a more "streamlined" look. I also used block plane to give each face a small (~1/16") crown.

I think the best finish for a mallet is oil - specifically boiled linseed oil (BLO). Film finishes will get beat to crap, and are tough to refinish, but with oil all you need to do is add some more with a little sanding first if needed. On my mallets, I thin the BLO with mineral spirits and the first coat is just flooded on and kept wet with oil for 30-45 minutes. Wipe off the excess and let dry for a day or two depending on conditions. Further coats are applied with wet dry sandpaper (starting with 400x) to create a slurry to help fill the grain. On the mallets I traded, I sanded three times with 400x and three times with 600x. A little excessive, but I wanted it to feel really nice. You can do as few or as many as you like.

Another tip with BLO - it can take a long time to dry, particularly if your finish area is cool. I always add a little bit of Japan Dryer when I use BLO and it is usually dry in 24 hours even at 60 degrees in my basement.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

trc you just answered all of the questions I was going to post later tonight so THANK YOU!!! Also, where were you two days ago when I was doing the initial glue up?!?!?! I do plan to make a few more in the future (probably a smaller one at some point) and I most certainly will taper the handle and fit the head to it. That is a great idea, and although I had thought about gluing everything up all at once I'd never tried to make a mortise before so it was a good exercise for me.

Where is the best place to get BLO? Is it one of those finishes where the stuff sold at the big box stores isn't the actual product, like tung oil?


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Nope, BLO is BLO. Buy it wherever you can get it cheapest.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

trc65 said:


> Nope, BLO is BLO. Buy it wherever you can get it cheapest.


Awesome thanks! I'll be picking some up tomorrow on my way home. Hopefully I'll have everything finished tonight and can get the first coat on it tomorrow night.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks to all of the helpful advice I got on this yesterday, I was able to get this puppy ready for finish. I finished touching up the mortise, and did a final sanding on the head after I put a slight radius across the top. I also shaped and final sanded the handle.














I'll pick up some BLO on my way home today, and hopefully get the first coat on tonight.


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## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

Nice mallet. :thumbsup:

Excuse my ignorance, what is BLO? I know it isn't what it sounds like, or is it?


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Carvel Loafer said:


> Nice mallet. :thumbsup:
> 
> Excuse my ignorance, what is BLO? I know it isn't what it sounds like, or is it?


Hahaha, no I don't think it's quite what you are thinking. The term is new to me as well and it is *B*oiled *L*inseed *O*il. This will be my first time using it so I will let you know how it goes.


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## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

Whew! Glad to hear. Anyway, nice mallet and a few good tips from some others.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Carvel Loafer said:


> Whew! Glad to hear. Anyway, nice mallet and a few good tips from some others.


Thanks Loaf! That is a great compliment coming from you. I've seen those picture frames you've been making and they are top notch!


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

One more final suggestion before you apply the finish. Consider putting a chamfer on the top (and maybe bottom) of the handle. Because you'll occasionally be hitting it on your bench to "seat" the head, it will prevent splitting that may occur if you catch an edge.

BTW: I like the radius you added to the top: such a little thing adds so much to the overall appearance!


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I just picked up some BLO and Japan Dryer. Care to share your ratios with me trc? I know not much of the Japan dryer is needed, I'm more curious about the BLO to mineral spirits ratio.

I added the top radius last night per your reccomendation and I will add the handle chamfers tonight before putting on the finish.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I never measure with the BLO and mineral spirits, anywhere between 1/4 to 1/2 MS to BLO. Just getting it thin enough to flow easier and absorb a little quicker. Japan Dryer is not very much. The bottle should give you a rough idea on oz/gal of paint, I try to stick to that ratio as I dribble some into small bottles that I use


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

Nice looking mallet!

Also great advise from TRC65, another bit of advise is. when you make a second mallet of what ever size, If you want a smaller mallet with equal weight. If you follow Tim's advise on the way to glue up the middle section to 1 outside face first. you can drill a couple hollows in the middle section and pack them with lead weights. I would get the smallest split shot fishing weights and fill the voids drilled in the middle section. depending on how tight you pack them in. you may end up with a "dead blow" style mallet.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Wema826 said:


> Nice looking mallet!
> 
> Also great advise from TRC65, another bit of advise is. when you make a second mallet of what ever size, If you want a smaller mallet with equal weight. If you follow Tim's advise on the way to glue up the middle section to 1 outside face first. you can drill a couple hollows in the middle section and pack them with lead weights. I would get the smallest split shot fishing weights and fill the voids drilled in the middle section. depending on how tight you pack them in. you may end up with a "dead blow" style mallet.


Thanks Wema! I like the idea of the lead weights. I'd seen it done that way, but wanted to take a more traditional approach on my first go at it. I see many more mallets in my future, and most likely a lathe!


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I just got the first coat on it, and it looks incredible. I'll be sure to post some pictures tomorrow.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

John, do you mean like this one :laughing::laughing:

















I kind of got carried away with the mallet swap and made 6 mallets, one of which was the dead blow pictured above. Made exactly as John described. This one comes in at 24 oz. Handle was a little different as I wedged and glued this one.

Edit: Forgot to mention, glued 1/4" thick leather on faces to help prevent blemishes during bashing.


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

Lol yup!


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Last night, I whipped up some of trc's "secret" recipe using the following items.








Then, per his recommendations, I kept the surface flooded as best I could for about 45 minutes.














I then wiped any excess finish off.


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## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

That turned out nice, I like your brand too.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Very nice mallet!! Great job.

Mark


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

That is one nice looking mallet!


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## MapleMoose (Sep 25, 2012)

Thor called. Mjölnir's in the shop for repairs. He is coming to borrow your mallet. Closest thing he could find.

Seriously though, your mallet looks fantastic! Looking forward to some action pic's of you putting it to use.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Just once in my life, I'd like to spend a day wood carving and using a mallet like that. In the meantime, I use carver's mallets (round & tapered heads) with polyurethane covers. Don't slip and don't split, one is 12oz and the other is lead core & 30 oz.

Adding weight: Since Canada does not use pennies anymore, a stack of them would help. #8 lead shot for trap-shooting clay targets works well = add epoxy as you fill the space to fill the voids and the shot won't slosh around, dead blow style. #8 is about as small as you will find, commonly. Smaller shot, smaller voids, more weight. Trap loads are usually 1 oz and 1 1/8oz shot. Even 71/2 shot would be OK, #6 is too big, too much space inbetween.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks for the kind words everyone. I'm dying to use this thing, but it will need a few more coats before I can put it into play.

Trc, I am planning on doing the slurry method for my next few coats, but had a question for you, or anyone else that can answer this. With the two contrasting woods, will the dark sanding "dust" in the slurry bleed into the lighter maple and cherry? 

I plan to use this method to fill the grain in some walnut wine bottle holders I made, but they have a birch butterfly or bowtie inlay that I'm worried will get muddied by the walnut slurry.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I think they probably will "bleed" together to a certain degree. I've not done this on two woods that contrast as much as what you've used. It's really creating a slurry that is filling the grain (as well as smoothing) so I'm sure it will darken the lighter wood. 

You don't really "need" to do a slurry sanding on any of it, it just makes a really nice feeling mallet. If you are concerned, I just do the sanding on the lighter colored wood of the handle and skip the dark areas. The grip looks to be mostly your lighter wood so that would work.

On this or other projects, you could keep bleeding to a minimum by selective sanding and wiping, keeping (as best you can) light/dark slurry separate.

You could try some samples of walnut/birch treating them the same as what you plan for the bottle holders. Flood coat, then sand a slurry on the walnut then smear that on the birch and sand. Wipe off and see what you get - might not be too bad depending on what look you like.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

trc65 said:


> I think they probably will "bleed" together to a certain degree. I've not done this on two woods that contrast as much as what you've used. It's really creating a slurry that is filling the grain (as well as smoothing) so I'm sure it will darken the lighter wood.
> 
> You don't really "need" to do a slurry sanding on any of it, it just makes a really nice feeling mallet. If you are concerned, I just do the sanding on the lighter colored wood of the handle and skip the dark areas. The grip looks to be mostly your lighter wood so that would work.
> 
> ...


I just tried out a test piece and it doesn't look like it will bleed much if at all. Now, do you wipe off the slurry or let it dry and sand in a day or two when dry?


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I sand to get a good slurry, rub it in all directions with my hand, wipe off and let dry. Only thing to be careful about is to keep it wet while sanding and if you need to add more oil, don't let it wash off the slurry.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

trc65 said:


> I sand to get a good slurry, rub it in all directions with my hand, wipe off and let dry. Only thing to be careful about is to keep it wet while sanding and if you need to add more oil, don't let it wash off the slurry.


First off, trc what is your first name? Second, what can I send you as a thank you for holding my hand through the finishing process?


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

It's Tim. 

Glad you found it all helpful. I appreciate the offer, but your thanks is all that's necessary!:yes: 

The process is not new and definitely nothing I've developed, just some things I've read here and other places on the web. I'd credit those who originally posted if I could remember who they are.:laughing:

I've gained so much knowledge from this site, it is nice to be able to pay a little bit back once in a while.

BTW - another little twist on the BLO finish is to use turpentine instead of MS to thin. Turpentine has solids which will add to the finish, helps the oil flow out and dry quicker. Al B Thayer is the one who turned me on to the benefits of using turp. Here is a link that he shared on the benefits: http://www.violinvarnish.com/turpentine.htm
Unfortunately when it is cold I have to finish in my basement as I have no heated shop - the smell is too much in the house so I only use the turpentine during warm weather.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

MapleMoose said:


> Thor called. Mjölnir's in the shop for repairs. He is coming to borrow your mallet. Closest thing he could find.
> 
> Seriously though, your mallet looks fantastic! Looking forward to some action pic's of you putting it to use.


I think Thor would be a little disappointed, but I for one am not.




trc65 said:


> It's Tim.
> 
> Glad you found it all helpful. I appreciate the offer, but your thanks is all that's necessary!:yes:
> 
> ...


Well thanks again Tim you are too kind. I hope to one day be able to give back to this forum as much as I've learned here. I was actually able to pick up a lathe for Jean/firemedic here and Charleston, and ship it back to him in LA through my factory and freight discounts. If you ever need a large piece of machinery shipped from Charleston to your location, I'm your man!


I plan to do the second "slurry sanding" tonight. I will post pictures if it looks any different. If not, I will just update this thread once I have put her into action and get some dings on that face!

Sean


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I officially have a new "tool" for the shop with the mallet finished. After letting everything dry for a few more days, I finally gave it one last wipe down and put it together.








I even used it to persuade this little box I'm making together.









The plans in the magazine only got me so far. I would have ended up with a decent mallet that would have been perfectly adequate for me. A big THANKS to Tim and the rest of you that helped me take this thing to the next level! I had never tried the slurry method or BLO, and I'm thrilled to have that new skill in my arsenal. Picking it up feels like I've found my missing piece, and the the finish is smoother than a baby's bottom.

Thanks again everyone, and be on the lookout for this bad boy in the background of any future photos I'll be posting!

Sean


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

I finally got a chance to put some dings in the new mallet. I figured the best way to break it in was to try hand cutting dovetails for the first time. The mallet was incredible and felt great in my hand. The dovetails were a different story.....
















I have a ways to go, but all I need is more practice. I've got the saw, the chisels, and now the mallet to get the job done.


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## jdpber (Mar 25, 2014)

Nice


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