# What should I make this out of?



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

I am making a shotglass shelf as shown. It will be painted. I would like opinions on materials to use. 

The dimensions for the carcass and shelves are missing from the plan. Carcass is currently 3/4, but still open for changes. The shelves are currently 1/2, probably good for shotglasses. The back will be 1/4 ply.

No planer so store bought thicknesses are required.

Thanks!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

As long as it's going to be painted, I would use 3/4" MDF, and edge the front with iron on edging or solid wood.


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

I have never made anything from MDF. Will the regular wood screws for keyhole slots stay in MDF when its loaded up?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I don't use the tapered "wood" screws for anything. Sharp coarse thread screws or confirmat screws work good in MDF.


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Thought of something else while mowing the lawn tonight. Can I cut dadoes in MDF for the shelves?


----------



## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

sanchez said:


> Thought of something else while mowing the lawn tonight. Can I cut dadoes in MDF for the shelves?


Absolutely


----------



## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

sanchez said:


> Thought of something else while mowing the lawn tonight. Can I cut dadoes in MDF for the shelves?


Dados work fine. And in fact, for a small shot glass shelf like that, I'd probably do dados for the shelves, and rabbit the 4 outer corners. Then glue it, & shoot a few 18ga brads in just to hold it till the glue dried. Tightbond II would do just fine for this. 

For a project this size, IMHO screws would be overkill.


----------



## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

I'll second glue and brads. There's no need to use screws since mdf takes glue so well. Once it is glued up it will never separate at the seam thanks to the simple fact that there is no grain pattern to it.


----------



## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

About two years ago, I did one pretty much like this. 

The left shows what I needed to modify... the right, the final product.

It was originally made from pressed board closet shelving (hard as flint, and every bit as difficult to work with). I used cabinet grade plywood where I couldn't reuse the original stuff.


----------



## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

One additional thing. For strength, do the 4 outside corners with a dado & rabbit combination. Once it's glued in & set up,. it won't pull apart.


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Thanks for all the tips guys! :thumbsup:


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

*Glue up order?*

Okay, so I'm ready to assemble this shelf. I have rabbets cut in the carcass corners and stopped dadoes cut in the carcass for the shelves.

My new question is, in what order should I glue this up?


Carcass first, then slide shelves in from the back, and deal with glue sliding around?
Start at the bottom and work my way up, finishing with the top?
Shelves first, then top and bottom?
All at once, and hope for the best?
Something better?
Thanks


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

sanchez said:


> Okay, so I'm ready to assemble this shelf. I have rabbets cut in the carcass corners and stopped dadoes cut in the carcass for the shelves.
> 
> My new question is, in what order should I glue this up?
> 
> *All at once, and hope for the best?*Thanks



That's what I would do...all at once. If you have enough clamps, and you're ready. I would first do a dry fit to see if all is really ready. Then lay out the parts and tools so you're not running around looking for something. Have your clamp layout figured out and adjusted enough to fit where they go.

Have some cross sticks ready to keep the unit square when clamping and doing any fastening. They are nothing more than wood that can be 3/4"x3/4" or larger to lay across the face (or back) and tack nailed to the edge from corner to corner to keep the parts square.


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

And what if I dont have enough clamps? I was going to get 4 36" clamps tonight.


----------



## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

sanchez said:


> And what if I dont have enough clamps? I was going to get 4 36" clamps tonight.



You never have enough clamps because you can never have to many. looking at your design 4- 36" and 4-12" should work to glue it up all at one time. The 12" clamps are for the bottom area on your drawing.


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Okay, that sounds like a plan! I'll see how it goes after much dry fitting and hand wringing!


----------

