# Using a BEVEL saw guide for circular saw?



## kaitlyn2004 (Nov 4, 2020)

I've watched countless youtube videos for various ideas on rip guides, fences, crosscut jigs, etc. etc... Looked at various retail fences and guides, etc.

It seems NONE of these demonstrate/support the idea of using the circular saw at a bevel. Searching for a circular saw bevel jig gives me zero examples of people doing this?

I don't have a ton of spare/scrap plywood to experiment around with right now, so moreso trying to work out the idea in my head... and would it not work with a bevel?

Does a different bevel affect the "entry point" of the saw in the wood? It seems the bevel angle rotation isn't happening around the central point, which would seemingly throw things off for each degree?

And lastly, it would seem as though you could not align the same way for a crosscut, because where it first hits i.e. the fence/surface of the jig is not the exact measurement of the wood layers below it?

Basically, having a whole bunch of confusion around getting a good fence/guide setup for a bevel rip cut... and getting more and more worried as I find no examples of doing so!

I don't have a table saw, and looking to first rip the plywood into 8'x6" strips (this is the easy part!) and then cut each of those 6" strips in half with a 45 deg bevel, for french cleats.


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## redeared (Feb 7, 2019)

To be honest I only use a circular saw for cutting plywood with a clamp on guide or for what I call rough cuts on 2X's where it doesn't have to be perfect. Maybe a sacrificial board as a base with a vertical board attached adjusted to the base plate of the saw for what you want to bevel rip could work


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

There are guides available for most saws like the one in the picture below. It rides on the edge of the board and isn't affected by the angle of the saw.

Instead of trying to cut 6" strips in half, I would cut the angle 3" from the edge of the full sheet, then make a square cut 3" from that edge and then an angled cut and so on.

Since the edges of the blade are cutting a parallel path through the wood, no matter how bad your cut is, either side of the cut will still mate perfectly with the other half. Even if you just drew a line and followed it, you'd probably still be fine.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Quickstep said:


> There are guides available for most saws like the one in the picture below. It rides on the edge of the board and isn't affected by the angle of the saw.
> 
> Instead of trying to cut 6" strips in half, I would cut the angle 3" from the edge of the full sheet, then make a square cut 3" from that edge and then an angled cut and so on.
> 
> ...


This reads like an excellent method to do the job.

George


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## kaitlyn2004 (Nov 4, 2020)

Quickstep said:


> There are guides available for most saws like the one in the picture below. It rides on the edge of the board and isn't affected by the angle of the saw.
> 
> Instead of trying to cut 6" strips in half, I would cut the angle 3" from the edge of the full sheet, then make a square cut 3" from that edge and then an angled cut and so on.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this. I've never used one of those rip fences. Given the relatively short "edge guide", would the saw not still want to wander or does the guide hold it securely aligned as long as you're aligning with the edge of the board?

In terms of ping-ponging back and forth 45, 0, 45, 0... do you think there would be any inherent problem if the "bottom" of my french cleats on the wall were also beveled? It should end up being the sold edge against the wall, but obviously not as much material/not as thick at the bottom

Also, the manual for my ridgid octane circular saw states the rip fence is part #202050004, though I can't seem to find this actually available anywhere!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

There are "generic rip fences online, including Ebay. All that matters is the width of the bar and that needs to be slightly smaller than the slot in which it slides. Also required is a set screw or threaded knob on the slot to secure it from sliding about. 





Rigid circular saw rip guide at DuckDuckGo
 

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Your sawing technique should be as follows:
Using your left hand, apply sideways pressure against the fence to maintain a constant registration along the edge of the workpuece as you push the saw with your right hand. Go slow and easy to get the best and cleanest cut. Of course another approach is to use a straight edge guide longer than your workpiece and clamped at each end to run the shoe of the circular saw against. 
This requires determining of the distance between the tilted/beveled blade and the side of the shoe riding along the guide. BUT, there's an easy way to establish that! Set your blade to 45 degrees, nail a short scrap on top of another larger plywood scrap and press the saws' right side shoe against it and then make a short cut about 1" in. This is where your saw kerf will be on your final workpiece. Measure it and set your straight edge guide to the amount you wish to have removed.


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