# Convert Table saw to cabinet saw



## frankel (Oct 6, 2017)

I am a very experienced non-pro woodworker and I plan to downsize my shop. My old Craftsman 10" contractors saw is fine but the cast iron top and steel base and extensions means it is quite heavy. I would like to build a plywood cabinet and mount the trunnions to the underside of the top. I realize that trunnion to top alignment is critical but I don't need the accuracy a pro needs. Do you think it could be done and remain in alignment.


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

Yes. It absolutely can be done. The question really is, why? Why not remove everything except the case and mount that in some kind of base. You get the registration points of miter slot and front edge of the cast table and gain the flexibility you appear to want. Plus, in most of the Craftsman 113 saws (I am making an assumption it is a 113 saw), you will have to mount the tilt handwheel anyway because it is generally mounted to the case.

It is not uncommon that a 113 case is mounted in a table.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't get it. I'm an old man and I can just pick up and carry my Craftsman contractor saw. You would loose a lot to get rid of the cast top. It would never be the same saw again. If you cut a groove in the top for a miter gauge and cut it to where it fits well in damp weather the groove would swell up to where you couldn't use it. Then if you made it work in damp weather when the weather dries out the groove would be so big the miter gauge would fit so sloppy you couldn't get any accuracy. Some kind of a mobile base would make more sense.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*why is the weight a factor?*

If you are constantly moving your saw, you just need a better base or better wheels. All the advice above is good, and you will cause more issues than you think. The miter slot will ne nomore and you will need "T" nuts which will show through the top. Moisture may be a factor if you make a daado for new miter slots. There will be no support for the elevation for th tilt or elevation wheels.

I speak with some experience on this issue because I had an old Craftsman 103 series table saw myself. I removed all the base and screwed in 1" round solid steel legs about 18" long with threaded studs for the table holes. The weight of the legs was substantial, but I didn't care all that much. I didn't care where the dust went either, since I used it outside for ripping 2" stock. I can't remember if I used the grid extensions on it, but that would have made it quite heavy as a total unit. The 2 HP Baldor motor had to be removed when I transported it and that got tiresome. I finally purchased a Bosch 4000-09 job site saw, a wonderful machine, accurate, powerful and light enough to carry around.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

I really don't see the benefits of what you propose. Like others, I just don't see it working out well, regardless of skill and I don't see it being reliably accurate either. My 10" table saw and stand weigh in at well over 140 pounds (probably because there is a second 10" saw and its cabinet sitting on the bottom of the stand). The stand sits on three casters. Two fixed ones at one end and the third, swiveling, locking caster at the opposite end mounted on a steel angle. My shop is small (12'x22") so the saw gets moved quite a lot to a storage position along one wall when not being used. The three casters allow easy movement and the rig always sits without any rocking. The locking caster prevents any movement while being used.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/memb...-wide-crosscut-setup-60-x15-x1-1-2-workpiece/


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

From an accuracy viewpoint there is not/should not be any distinguishable accuracy differences between your current saw and what you think of as a "pro" saw. The primary difference is in the user.

I think that what you are proposing will leave your saw virtually unusable I bought a $50 mobility base at Sears for my saw and it is easy for an 81 year old to handly.

George


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