# Circular Saw Cross-cut Jig



## SebringDon (Jan 2, 2013)

As the son of a woodworker who lost a couple of fingers to a table saw (and with very limited shop room), I've been exploring alternative ways of ripping and cross-cutting. I'm using homemade tracks for ripping, and as long as I measure twice and cut once, I'm very happy with the results. I'm cutting parts for a horizontal panel saw, so my rips will soon be faster and cleaner. 

Smaller pieces, however, get tricky with a large track overlaying the piece. That meant I was really happy to discover this jig plan from Wayne of the Woods. I made a few modifications to the design, generated my own .skp (attached), and built my own version.

I extended the track to hold the saw when it's not in use and changed some materials to make sure it was as accurate as possible. I also widened the track enough that my first cut trimmed the edge, so between the edge of the track and the edge of the saw kerf, I have a precise cut line defined. It turned out pretty nice. I still need to notch the track so the blade guard is down when the saw is "parked" outside the cutting table.










Here it is in use. When our new bed was delivered today, I realized the single step our dog had before wasn't going to be high enough; he'd need two steps to climb that high. I got in a hurry with my track clamping and one cut ran a bit wide, so I ran the the sides of the steps through the jig together to make sure they were identical copies. Since the bed of the jig is 1 1/2" deep, two 3/4" ply pieces fit nicely.










While I had it up, I also ran another large piece of ply through, trimming all four sides. By the time I got all the way around, the piece was as square as I was able to measure it. I think this jig's a keeper. 

I still need to make some wedge clamps to speed up the clamping process, but with stop blocks, my cuts will be as repeatable as a table saw, if not quite as fast between pieces. It also feels extremely safe when cutting.

I hope others who don't have the space, money or inclination for a table saw will find this useful.


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## pepe' b (Jan 26, 2009)

*here's something I use for the same purpose*

I used this set up for a lot of the sheet goods break down. 

The good thing about it is you can make up different lengths and it is dead on to your measurements. 

I found it easier than keeping the sole plate of the circular saw pressed up against a straight edge.

I hope the pictures loaded tells the story.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

very timely posts ... i need to rip a 2x12 douglas fir plank into smaller pieces for a workbench i am building, and am leery of trying to do that with my cheap little table saw.

this gives me some other ideas to explore. thanks


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If you combine the two ideas...*

The crosscut sled and the bar on the bottom on the saw you will have a great sled...JMO. :smile:


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## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

Genius!


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## SebringDon (Jan 2, 2013)

pepe, I've got tracks in 8', 4', 2 1/2' and 1 1/2' lengths (although I'll never need the smallest one again, with this jig.) I'm going to look at retrofitting both the tracks and the jig with your bar idea to make it even harder to screw up a cut.  ETA: I wonder if T-track would be even better if the slide was smooth enough.

Also, for those interested in exploring these alternatives, here's a link to the "Saw Horse Panel Saw" (from Bob's Plans) that I'm building to handle big sheets for ripping.

Interesting "bootstrapping" issue; I needed the crosscut jig to build the panel saw, because there are a number of small pieces that don't lend themselves to being cut with a big hunk of track.

Right now I'm making knobs for the panel saw, because I refused to spend $5 each for the dozen knobs it takes. I'm not cheap, just frugal. :laughing:


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## Sarge240 (Feb 8, 2013)

I've been using the kreg rip cut jig, and a miter saw for smaller cross cuts. I like your sled, and I might copy it for pieces larger than 8 inches and smaller than 12, which eliminates safe cross cuts on both the circular saw and the miter saw. Great idea man!


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## Sarge240 (Feb 8, 2013)

Also wanted to add that your fathers finger loss is what is keeping me from buying a table saw! It scares the sht out if me, lol. I can't be the only one though.


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## SebringDon (Jan 2, 2013)

Sarge240 said:


> Also wanted to add that your fathers finger loss is what is keeping me from buying a table saw! It scares the sht out if me, lol. I can't be the only one though.


My dad was a master mechanic and (later) shop foreman for 41 years. His day job was doing in metal what he did with wood as a hobby. He was very safety-conscious, and he still got bitten by a hidden knot in a piece of wood. That's what convinced me to seek a different way.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Hmmm... I guess I've never felt my circular was safer than my table saw, since the table can cut with its guards on but the circular retracts its guard to cut.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

For someone working solo with long heavy pieces, I believe that a table saw is not easy or safe to use.

With stock like that, I think it is safer and easier to take the saw to the wood, not the other way around.

I am going to make something along these lines. Thanks to Don and Pepe for pushing me in this direction.

I'll document my build and progress on that in a separate thread.


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## SebringDon (Jan 2, 2013)

Gilgaron said:


> Hmmm... I guess I've never felt my circular was safer than my table saw, since the table can cut with its guards on but the circular retracts its guard to cut.


But unlike with a table saw, my body parts are never closer to a spinning blade than the handle of the saw, and the wood is clamped in place, not free to take off across the room if I mishandle it. Among track users, that's known as the "dead wood" concept.


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## big_d (Feb 20, 2013)

Chris Curl said:


> For someone working solo with long heavy pieces, I believe that a table saw is not easy or safe to use.


I just recently started woodworking on a TS and I don't feel unsafe if I keep fingers at least one foot away from the blade at all time. But my problem with cutting a long piece of stock on a TS is that I feel like I'd screw up the cut because it's hard to keep something big and heavy straight throughout.

This jig look like it would give much straighter cuts, thanks for posting! Now imagine attaching a long threaded rod to the circular saw and run it with a motor for a completely automated cut :tank:


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

big_d said:


> But my problem with cutting a long piece of stock on a TS is that I feel like I'd screw up the cut because it's hard to keep something big and heavy straight throughout.


this is my bigger concern.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I just came across this system in the sketchup components ... it looks really good and easy to make. I think I have found the setup I was hoping for.


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## SebringDon (Jan 2, 2013)

Chris Curl said:


> For someone working solo with long heavy pieces, I believe that a table saw is not easy or safe to use.
> 
> With stock like that, I think it is safer and easier to take the saw to the wood, not the other way around.
> 
> ...


I'll look forward to watching that thread. Take a look at the Saw Horse Panel Sled I posted above, I think in #6. I'm prepping to build one now; I'll document my build as well, since there seems to be some interest.

ETA: Can you post that .skp file, Chris? I think I'm in love. :laughing: It looks like I have a little rebuild ahead on all my tracks.

ETA2: If you make some track(s), be sure to make them wide enough and long enough for easy clamping to your stock. I made my first one a little too narrow, and clamping it to 3/4" stock without the saw body running into the clamps is an interesting exercise.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

sure. here it is:


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