# Dovetail Saw - Winsor Kit Build - pic heavy!



## bigben

*Dovetail Saw - Winsor Kit Build*

As my interest continues to grow in hand tools I started to feel the ‘need’ for some good hand saws. I started doing my research and found that all the quality saws (ones that looked good too) were $125-$250+ dollars. Veritas makes a fine dovetail saw for about $70 but I was drawn to the more traditional look of brass backs and ornate handles.

Because of the high price of entry, I decided to look for a kit. It figured would be a fun learning experience to shape the handle and what better way to get a custom saw, maybe even an heirloom piece I could build myself. 

I came across Winsor Saw (winsorsaw.com) and saw that they offered a kit. There wasn’t a lot of info on these saws, but the feedback I could find was all positive. I contacted them and Robert was very helpful selecting a kit. A short time later a sharpened blade, brass back and two brass split nut bolts arrived along with the pattern Robert used to shape his handles. Well packed and in good shape. I felt the cost was reasonable, between the kit and the lumber, I will be well under the cost of a new Veritas dovetail saw. (the brass does have a little tarnish from the engraving, but it buffed right out)










From the beginning I knew I wanted to make a saw handle that was truely my own, I have large hands and wanted a perfect fit. I took a scan of Roberts template and began to tweak it to fit what I thought I would like in a handle. I also borrowed some design elements from other handle patterns I found online. I steepened the attack angle slightly, and tweaked the profile of the handle back. I also added an M flourish to the top, as my last name starts with M.










I found a nice piece of curly maple that will become the handle. 










I think the general consensus for thickness is about 7/8” for a saw handle, I milled the maple stock to a 15/16” thinking I would loose some to sanding, and a slightly fat handle would suit my large hands.










I printed my pattern to scale and used a light coat of adhesive to attach it to the wood, being sure to align the grain direction for strength in the handle.










Trimmed some excess and holes drilled to shape handle with a variety of forstner buts, waiting on drilling the blade holes for now.










The next step was to cut the slot to accept the blade. The blade plate for the Windsor saw was 0.02” stock, and I found the only saw I had with a thin enough kerf was a cheap shark pull saw. I’ve seen a procedure where you use the sharpened blade blank to cut its own slot, but the set of these blades would yield a kerf wider than the blade plate, which in my mind would result in a sloppy fit. So I proceeded with the pull saw. 
I trimmed the cheeks back within 1/32 of their final dimension and I used a marking gauge to mark the center around the entire cut, marking from both sides to make sure I was exactly centered. And yes, blood has already been shed for this project.










I used a square beside the saw as a reference to keep me plum, and proceeded slowly cutting the groove.










Try out a test fit and I’m in good shape, blade fits snugly and sighting down the handle shows it’s straight – I’m relieved!










Trimmed some more off the handle and call it a night.


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## thegrgyle

Well, I'm hooked! After trying my second set of handcut DT's, I have realized that I want/need an saw. After seeing the prices, I am very curious about this. Can't wait to see this play out.


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## autre

*I'm with Fabian...*

I'm watching too. -Had no idea they made kits, and I'm sure to follow your example.

So...

Thanks!


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## spark0506

I'm along for the ride. BTW....I had no idea you could get saw kits like this.


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## bigben

Quick update, only had about an hour in the shop last night. Time to cut the slot for the brass back. I started by fitting the brass back onto the blade and setting the blade in its cut to mark the edges of brass back for the cut. Used a marking knife as a landing area for chisels later.










The brass was 3/16” wide so I used a brad point bit of the same size to hog some material out










After a lot of chisel work and sever test fits, slot is complete. 










Blade and brass back fit nicely.



















I went to get started drilling the holes for the bolts. Come to find out the diameter of the bolt head is 7/16” not ½” like I originally suspected (by eye – at least I measured before I did anything…). Unfortunately I don’t have a 7/16 brad or forstner bit. All I have is a spade and that won’t work for the ‘countersink’. Nothing at local Home Depot so I had to order one – thank god for amazon prime, it should be here in 2 days. Probably start shaping the handle in the meantime….more updates soon.


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## LearnByDoing

Very cool. Can you tell us how much the kit it's self was?


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## Gilgaron

I pulled up the site but didn't see kits, just parts. Did you put the parts together from that list yourself?

I've been thinking about getting a sash saw kit from TFWW for a while. I'm part way through making a LV wooden spokeshave from a kit, and it is lots of fun, and a far different challenge from making boxes or furniture. I was surprised with how many tools I had scattered across my bench trying to make a tool...


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## bigben

Pricing depends on what you want, in talking with Robert @ Windsor it sounded like he could accommodate just about anything you'd like, dovetail/carcass/tenon, sharpened & set or not, different blade lengths. 

Contact him through his site www.winsorsaw.com with what you have in mind. It seems like he makes things to order so lead time may vary. But I found the price very reasonable and worth the effort to build on your own. 

This is the first saw build I've ever done so take everything I say with a grain of salt.


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## hays0369

I am going to be watching this one. Very good, detailed post. Can't wait to the the project come along.


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## Shop Dad

This is awesome Ben! Thanks for posting. As with others, I'm very interested in how this goes together and thinking about making one myself some day.


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## bigben

Made a little more progress tonight and things are really starting to take shape. 

Started by trimming to final dimensions on the bandsaw










From there I cleaned up the flat surfaces with chisels and a flat file, still have more work there. Then the fun really began...I broke out my microplanes and started into shaping the handle. This was an iterative process of filing and testing for feel and fit. This was a really enjoyable hour in the shop, watching a big blocky handle transform into a nicely curved comfortable warm piece of wood, makes the effort worth it. One of the benefits of making your own is you can fit it to your hand. It ended intentionally asymmetrical, but it's a perfect fit to the shape of my hand (probably very uncomfortable if a lefty wanted to use it, as I hogged out some extra material where my thumb wraps around. 




























Still a lot of smoothing and sanding to go but it's starting to look like the real thing!


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## Ostie

That is coming along nicely and is going to be a beautiful tool when you're done. Thanks for sharing with us!


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## autre

Nice. Real nice. 

I would no doubt contour any handle to my hand as well.

On another note, the workbench (and vise) in the background sure looks handsome from what one can see of it in the pics. Care to share a few details about it (pics, etc.)?


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## bigben

autre said:


> Nice. Real nice.
> 
> I would no doubt contour any handle to my hand as well.
> 
> On another note, the workbench (and vise) in the background sure looks handsome from what one can see of it in the pics. Care to share a few details about it (pics, etc.)?


Thanks! I wish I could say I built it but I found it on Craigslist for an absolute steal. A photographer had bought it as a prop for some high end tools he was shooting so it was basically brand new when I bought it, as he had never used it as an actual workbench. Picked it up for $200 which is less than the materials cost to build it.


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## bigben

I was chatting with Robert at Winsor and he put my project up on his blog:

http://winsorsaw.wordpress.com/

Sweet!

As for kit prices, mine was $52 shipped, that included the sharpened and set blade, brass back and two brass split nut bolts. The lumber was part of a larger piece, but if you consider the BF price, I have $3 worth of wood in the handle - so the total cost will be $55 plus some quality time in the shop  That is assuming you don't count the $6 for a 7/16" forstner bit....

Also, I'm happy to share my handle pattern with anyone wanting to build a kit, just PM me with your email address and I'll send you a PDF.


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## autre

bigben said:


> I was chatting with Robert at Winsor and he put my project up on his blog:


How cool is that?!

:thumbsup:


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## terrysumner

Love this! Looking forward to seeing it done!


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## bigben

My 7/16" Forstner bit arrived so it's time to drill holes for the bolts. This is actually a fairly involved process, not difficult but lots of steps, so I took a lot of pictures...

First up, I squared up my drill press table, it was slightly off, but it's always good to check before you start any precision work. Start with pilot holes all the way through the handle, use a tiny bit, this hole is only to guide future cuts.










Next I chucked up the 7/16" forstner bit (a brad point would work here also, anything that will give a flat bottom hole). This is used to cut the countersink on both holes, both sides. I kept the brass bolt handy and checked for depth frequently. I went very slow here, easy to take off material, not easy to put it back if you go to far. 



















Finally, using an 11/64" bit I cut the last 2 hole all the way through. The pilot hole kept everything nicely lined up and centered.



















Next step was to chop out the....i don't know what it's called. The thing the keeps the bolt from spinning.... It's 1/4" square so a freshly sharpened 1/4" chisel will do the job. I worked slowly here, careful to get side as square and centered as possible.



















I left the bolt slightly proud here, it will be sanded flush later, better high than low.










A little better detail on the cuts.


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## bigben

*More Shaping*

For the top of the cheeks I wanted a chamfer that was rounded on the handle end, so I used a small round microplane to shape the rear rounding I wanted, basically by eye but making sure to leave some material at the top of the cheeks so it didn’t come to a point where it meets the brass back, about 1/8” of flat.



















From there I chiseled the chamfer with paring strokes – needed sharp tools for this, maple is pretty but it’s hard (TWSS)



















I finished off the night with some more smoothing on the back of the handle, used a round/flat bastard file to smooth what was left behind by the microplane. Some sanding should finish it off.










Here’s a trick I picked up looking through Roberts blog at Windsor that was a big help. Using a wood screw clamp in the vice raises the work piece up where it’s easy to file and sand, and the angled jaws allow for better angles with the files etc.










That’s all for now…


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## terrysumner

*Looking good!*

Can't wait to see the handle with the finish on it!!! Thanks for posting such a detailed in-progress thread!


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## bigben

terrysumner said:


> Can't wait to see the handle with the finish on it!!! Thanks for posting such a detailed in-progress thread!


That brings up a good topic, what do you all think is the best way to finish this? I'm no expert with finishes...


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## Shop Dad

Boy does that look good! Finish might be nice to have a coat of BLO to bring out the curl, shellac to seal it, then maybe laquer?


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## sawdustfactory

I'd go with BLO and just some wax so that handle ages well with use.


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## bigben

I like both of those ideas, BLO + wax appeals to me as it would be easy to repair/renew. Also pretty hard to screw up = bonus. Still not sure exactly what technique I'm going to use and open to more suggestions + opinions.


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## Shop Dad

Danish oil would be another option. Typically 1/3 BLO, 1/3 MS, 1/3 varnish. Similarly renewable.


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## bigben

I think Danish oil could be a good option, I've been reading up on finishing tool handles and Danish oil comes up a lot...

Anyway...

Had a lot to do in the shop tonight so I only worked on the handle for about a half hour. Finished the rough shaping and filing, added a slightly rounded chamfer to the rest of the cheeks and filed the rest of the handle smooth. 

Let the sanding begin! Did some work with some 80 grit to clean up tool marks, lot more sanding to do...


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## autre

That is just inspirational. 

Rather nice presentation, to boot. 


FWIW - I don't see why those square holes wouldn't/couldn't simply be referred to as mortises. Anyone?


Edit: If you opt for Danish oil, mix your own per Shop Dad's formulation as opposed to store bought. -My two cents.


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## ACP

I love it! What a great thread. I wondered about these saws too. I can't wait to see the cutting performance when you are done.


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## bigben

autre said:


> FWIW - I don't see why those square holes wouldn't/couldn't simply be referred to as mortises. Anyone?


Makes sense to me. 

I'd like to file a motion, henceforth to be know as....


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## Chaincarver Steve

Looking great, Ben. I like the handle design. That's going to be a prized tool for sure. :thumbsup:


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## Wema826

Great post and Great looking saw, I am anxiously waiting to hear how the saw performs. I am thinking if it performs as well as it looks, I would be interested in building a set for myself, thinking crosscut, tenon and dovetail.


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## bigben

Quick update, done a lot of sanding but, pictures not really necessary for that. I did prep the blade today as I'm almost ready to assemble the saw. 

The blade and back were cleaned with alcohol, and I put the back in the vice to free up my hands to insert the blade. I ran a bead of locktite medium (blue) into the groove in the back, I wiped the excess quickly before proceeding. I aligned the blade and inserted it. The locktite set up almost immediately so take care that everything is lined up. It's an extremely strong hold. 










From there I put blade in the tote and headed for the drill press. With the blade assembly where I wanted, I used the correct sized bit in the existing hole with the press turned off. With light pressure I spun the chuck a couple of rotations by hand, doing this in both holes gave me a centered mark to drill the holes for real. 










I removed the blade from the tote and used the marks to drill the holes.










A dry fit test and I'm right on the money.


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## autre

Smart. Looking real handsome. 

And you can see the refinements from the sanding on the handle, very nice.


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## STAR

Woh! Love this. That is a fabulous pictorial you have done Ben, one of the best I have seen.

I can understand which Winsor Saws would like to display it. I have more than a passing interest in these DT saw builds, Being in Oz puts one at a disadvantage when building these.

But I now have a good supply of Brass Back which has been slotted. The spring steel we got from the States along with a few 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 brass saw nuts.

You would think that Forstner bits for these would be easy to obtain. the 7/16 and 9/16 bits are not available here so I had to order them from Woodcraft along with an 11/16 bit.

It appears the steel and saw nuts are the same that goes into Lie Nielsen and Veritas line. I also had to send my steel blank out to get the teeth cut.

Because you guys can get the kit over there I suggest you give it ago. The one I have made was designed to be able to fit into my toolbox, and it is surprising how often I have to use it especially if I am somewhere and I do not have a hand saw with me.


You can also use one of those Scraper blades as a saw blade. The ones we have here have a Rockwell hardness test of about 59 which is about the right hardness required.

Pete


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## bigben

Took the sanding up to 220 tonight and was satisfied enough to end it there










Threw in a little personal touch, slipped on the 1 in 2013 but oh well. Adds character as far as I'm concerned. 










Finally the moment I had been waiting for, the first coat of finish. I decided to go with Danish oil. In talking with Robert @ Winsor he recommended applying a finish around the tote (where you would risk getting finish on the blade) install the blade and back, sand the bolts flush and finish the rest. Well once the oil started going on I just went for it, the grain came alive. The next few coats I'll concentrate around he tote so I'm not repeating myself once I sand the bolts flush.


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## STAR

I really enjoyed all the detail in those photos as I had an interest in making some Brass backed saws a few years ago.

At the moment, no time for anything, However, all the DT saws I have seen have small handles, I know you said you are a bigman but my experience has been when you grasp a DT saw it always feels like your hand is slightly cramped until you get used to it.

The reason for that I was told is by being slightly smaller, you had more control and could cut more accurately.

Be interesting to see what others think.

Pete


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## Shop Dad

Wow Ben that looks great. And the figure really pops! That will be a beautiful saw, and for the company PR you can't pay for. I'm sure they will end up selling a bunch of these as a result of your thread! (I know I'm looking hard at one.) Wouldn't it be nice if they threw you a tenon or carcas saw kit for another build!


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## Art Smith

This has been an awesome thread. Well done:thumbsup:
I know I will be giving this a try for sure. These folks sound like the kind of folks that I like doing business with. And with the information contained in bigben's build I feel that I can do this. Thanks!
ps: I agree it would be cool for them to give bigben another saw kit to build. Even cooler to give us a discount for following along:laughing:


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## bigben

Shop Dad said:


> That will be a beautiful saw, and for the company PR you can't pay for. I'm sure they will end up selling a bunch of these as a result of your thread! (I know I'm looking hard at one.) Wouldn't it be nice if they threw you a tenon or carcas saw kit for another build!


Haha that would be nice, but I didn't post this thread for freebies! 

From what I can tell Winsor is a small operation, perhaps a one man show but I'm not sure. Either way Robert @ Winsor has been a huge help during this build, lots of advice and encouragement, so if this thread sells a few kits than I happy I could help a small (and domestic) company. 

I'll post post finished pics in a week or so, getting the finish on is going to take a little time and not really worth updating with pictures each time...


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## MasterSplinter

Beautiful job. Just so you know. This thread is what got me to order one. Thank you


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## Wema826

Shop Dad said:


> Wow Ben that looks great. And the figure really pops! That will be a beautiful saw, and for the company PR you can't pay for. I'm sure they will end up selling a bunch of these as a result of your thread! (I know I'm looking hard at one.) Wouldn't it be nice if they threw you a tenon or carcas saw kit for another build!


your absolutely right Shop Dad, on both accounts. Bens saw is amazing, and winsor did get at least one additional customer because of this thread, I bought a tenon saw kit from them. its a 14 inch filed at 13 tpi, this thread has inspired me to build a couple saws, i had an older lynx gents saw that i am just now finishing the handle on. and the tenon saw kit is in the mail. the handle blank is already roughed out for it! 

Robert at Winsor is a great guy to talk with, and very easy to do business with. I am planning on building a dove tail as well as a cross cut in the near future as well.

As far as cost goes, I got the sharpened blade, brass back, brass bolts for roughly half of what you would pay for a lie - nielsen. 

Cudos to Ben for starting a new Craze!!! who knows it might turn into the next tool swap!


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## bigben

Made some progress tonight and the saw is finally assembled, just need to apply finish to the rest of the handle. 

Before I attached the blade, I applied another coat of danish oil around the tote, followed by two coats wet sanded at 400 to fill the pores (although not much in the way of pores in this maple). This way all parts of the wood that are in contact with the blade (or near it) have the complete finish (except wax, which I'll apply to the entire saw so it doesn't need to be done ahead of time). I held off on applying any more finish on the rest of the handle because i still needed to file the brass bolts flush with the tote - which you'll see shortly.

Next step was to finally attached the blade/back assembly to the handle, but I don't have a split nut screwdriver. So I have to make a tool to finish making a tool. I found this process somewhere on the internet, so I won't say it's an original idea, but I couldn't find it again to post the source...

Anyway, the outside diameter of the split nut is 7/16". So I'll sacrifice a little used 7/16" spade bit to the cause:










I cut off the pilot point and drilled an 11/32" hole roughly centered in the bit. I don't have an angle grinder but a dremel did the trick, sparks flew and I ended up with this:










I found an empty file handle in my tool box and it fit the shank of the bit nicely










Works like a charm










From there it was time to sand the bolts, both sides, flush with the tote. I tried taping some sandpaper to my table saw top, but the tape didn't hold. I ended up using some 3m 77 adhesive to attach it to a granite surface plate (but I didn't take a picture of that) and that worked a lot better. Doesn't matter what you use as long as it's somewhat flat. I thought about using my belt sander but was afraid it would take off to much too quickly so I did this process by hand and it didn't take long.










Here's the bolts with a little sanding, basically how they look 'before'










I used 150 grit to get the bolts flush and 220 grit to finish it off. The 220 does leave a scratch pattern so if you want polished bolts you'll have to go higher up the sandpaper grit scale, I wanted the brushed look as it matches the brass back. This process did leave some brass dust on the handle so that required a little sanding to clean it up. Also gave it a wipe down with MS to get the last of the brass dust off.










Just need to apply finish to the rest of the handle and it will be done. Will post finished pics when I'm done.


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## STAR

I would like to thank Big Ben for taking the time to do the build, explain the process and pot the W.I.P. photos up.

I have done a lot of research on making a brass back dovetail saw. I have seen and handled the Lie-Neilsen which is what I think most of us would call the bench mark if we tried to build one.

The photos and the explanations by Ben would have to be the very best I have seen. it is all their. Maybe, because of my research and the fact that I have made one plus a few handles for larger saws I understand the process, but Ben's work was a great Primer for me and I even learnt new ways around some problem areas I had.

I have a bit on my plate, at the moment, a few unfinished projects that are taking forever. But I always wanted to build some more of these Brass Backed Saws.

I really have no excuse because I have already got all the necessary parts in my possession.

I have about 4 feet of slotted brass, about the same amount of saw steel which we got from Mike Winzloff and Sons and I have about 9 of each 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 brass saw nuts also from Winzloff.

The biggest problem I had was sourcing the 7/16 and 9/16 Forstner bits. They are unavailable in Australia, the 1/16 increments are not here only 1/8 increments. Fortunately I have a tool mule who got some from Woodcraft for me which I guard with my life.

Apparently Winzloff was the supplier for the Lie-Neilsen from my research. But the Saw nuts are the same as Big Bens so I would say go with the Winsor guy.

I had to get my saw steel toothed by a professional saw sharpening firm here in Australia, My 15 T cross cut dovetail cost about $22 to get it toothed. So, the Winsor saw blade is good value.

I was going to try and tooth mine myself, but that was before I had too much infront of me so I would skip that. Just another learning curve that leads to nowhere when you have finished.

Anyone interested in these should have ago because I have learnt a lot. Some just use a router to form the edges, but I went the rasp way which then led me on to doing some carving,

My little dovetail goes into my tool box, its a little beauty, I always have the teeth protected by a plastic page binder you get from places like stationery suppliers. I can't think of the names you have, but it is on the tip of my finger. Zinko ? Mail Boxes ? Office Supply?

When people see me put it into my tool box they look alarmed and often say, you are not going to put that in there, you will damage it. The look I get when I say no matter, if that happens, I'll just make another.

Pete


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## bigben

STAR said:


> I would like to thank Big Ben for taking the time to do the build, explain the process and pot the W.I.P. photos up.
> 
> I have done a lot of research on making a brass back dovetail saw. I have seen and handled the Lie-Neilsen which is what I think most of us would call the bench mark if we tried to build one.
> 
> The photos and the explanations by Ben would have to be the very best I have seen. it is all their. Maybe, because of my research and the fact that I have made one plus a few handles for larger saws I understand the process, but Ben's work was a great Primer for me and I even learnt new ways around some problem areas I had.
> 
> Pete


You're making me blush! Seriously though I appreciate it.

It's been a fun project and I couldn't be happier with the result. I would encourage anyone to try their own build. No part of the process is very difficult if you are patient and don't rush it.

Now that the blade is tight in the handle I tried a few test cuts, this is one smooth operator. Granted this is the first quality back saw I've ever owned, but it really is a pleasure to use. Once it's complete I'm going to start practicing my hand it dovetails and ill post a full review once I've put a few miles on it, I can already tell I'm going to like it.

Few more days to go with the finishing and ill post some final pictures.


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## STAR

*


bigben said:



You're making me blush! Seriously though I appreciate it.

It's been a fun project and I couldn't be happier with the result. I would encourage anyone to try their own build. No part of the process is very difficult if you are patient and don't rush it.

Click to expand...

*We have a guy here in Australia called Ray Gardner. He is an absolute researcher of these old saws and their history. It was from him that I got all the bits and pieces. 

He organised the steel which came out in rolls & the nuts from the States. He even organized the brass and got it slotted for us. Their was quite a few of us chipped in to mke a reasonable orde and Ray did it with no profit for him just the thrill of encouraging others to have a go.

For Big Ben's and others he has a website called www.backsaw.net 

and then have alook at his tutorial for Saw Handles.

http://www.backsaw.net/SawHandles101.pdf

These were not put on her to distract from Ben's work, rather the opposite to show how well explained the procedure is.

You will then realize how good Ben's effort was. We are really blest with the sharing talent we have here.

Thanks Ben


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## autre

This is Top-Drawer stuff BigBen.

I've also found that after you've made your first* tool out of necessity (i.e. the sacrificed spade bit/split nut driver), many others come rather easily to us, instead of the limitations we place on ourselves. Trust me- you'll make more.
Good old-fashioned ingenuity.

Nicely done.


*Not to suggest this is the first time you've done anything like this. Just generally speaking.


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## bigben

*Saw is finished!*

The saw is finally complete. For the sake of completeness here's how I finished the handle:

I did the finishing process twice. First without the blade in place and only applying finish around the cheeks/tote, any area that would be adjacent to the blade/back once installed. Than again a second time after the blade and back were attached and the bolts were sanded flush, applying finish to the rest of the handle. The second time around I was careful to keep finish away from the blade and back, where I applied finish the first time.

So the process:
1st coat - liberal application of danish oil, approximately every 5 mins for 30-40 mins. Wiped dry after the last application and checked every 30 mins for 2 hours for oil seeping out. I didn't have any with the maple but other more porous woods may have leakage - eewww. Cure 24-48 hrs.
2nd coat - repeat 1st coat procedure, no sanding between coats.
3rd coat - 400 grit wet sand application of danish oil to fill pores (not much to fill on the maple, but the handle was noticeably smoother after sanding. Lightly wipe surface to remove excess.
4th coat - Repeat 3rd coat with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
5th and 6th coat - Renaissance Wax and buff (entire saw, handle blade and all)

Here's the result!























































I've tried a few cuts and it performs beautifully. I'll put up a detailed review once I've had a chance to use it a while and really get a feel for it.

I couldn't be happier with how the handle turned out, it's a perfect fit and I think this is one of the best finishes I've ever put on a piece of wood - really happy with the result.


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## autre

I must say...

If not for this post as proof, you would be hard-pressed to convince me (and I'm sure, others) that you did/made that yourself.

I would be damn proud.


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## Shop Dad

+1 you have a saw to rival any out there. That has family heirloom written all over it.


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## Chaincarver Steve

Well done, Ben. It looks like you've made yourself a real treasure. Beautiful saw.


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## Billy De

Ben you`ve made a saw any one would be proud to own and use and in the process written a fascinating and interesting thread.

Well done:thumbsup:.


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## bigben

Time to start puttin this bad boy though its paces, but since the build is done I started a new thread:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f5/first-attempt-hand-cut-dovetails-50104/


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## Ostie

Ben, that is gorgeous! This thread has really inspired me.


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