# Shellac over BLO



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

Im making a gun cabinent out of cherry and i was planning on finishing it with BLO the wax free shellac over it then some sort of poly finish on top. I was wondering how long you have to let the BLO to dry before putting the shellac on it.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

What is your thought process for 3 different finishes? Especially poly over shellac. What will the shellac do for you that the poly wont?


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Kevin07 said:


> I'm making a gun cabinet out of cherry and i was planning on finishing it with BLO the wax free shellac over it then some sort of poly finish on top. I was wondering how long you have to let the BLO to dry before putting the shellac on it.


it will best suite your purposes to apply a thin film of the oil on a glass/plastic/metal surface and check the drying daily, where you are to finish the piece, till you can determine for yourself in your particular atmospheric conditions, when it has hardened. Cool/cold weather will always impede its drying as to hot/dry conditions.

If further explanation or in-depth info is desired, just ask. 

Sincerely,

chemmy.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

DST said:


> What is your thought process for 3 different finishes? Especially poly over shellac. What will the shellac do for you that the poly wont?


+1.:yes: You can apply the oil base polyurethane over the BLO once the BLO has dried. You can tell if it's dry by just feeling it. Dry times on wood may vary compared to just the BLO in isolation (on a non porous surface) as much of the oil gets absorbed. 

IMO, shellac presents a less durable base for the polyurethane than just the polyurethane over the BLO.












 







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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

In the old days there was the "Day, Week, Month and Year" theory of finishing.

Apply the linseed oil, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year forever.

I think that the theory was before dryers were added to linseed oil, a.k.a. Boiled Linseed Oil.

I understand the finish that you are trying to achieve and I would suggest using a modern curing oil for the first two coats. Then depending on how you like the "feel" of the finish either Johnson's Paste Wax or a polyurethane.

Typically after a water based stain, I apply two coats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish (A curing oil) using a white ScotchBrite pad a day or so apart. The ScotchBrite knocks down any raised grain by the WB stain. 

Then

Depending upon how I like the recipient of the piece, polyurethane or paste wax.

I wouldn't use shellac for exactly the reason the Mike is saying.


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## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

Thnk guys. I read somewhere a wile back that the shellac is used to seal the oil in so the polly would stick better. Was this maybe for the old school linseed oil?


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