# Miter or Cope modeling for 90 degree corner?



## nateoverbey (Nov 22, 2010)

I'm building a L shaped desk out of plywood etc. I planed on edge banding with molding. My question is should I miter the inside corner of the L or do I cope it? The suspect the corner is pretty close to a perfect 90.

Nate


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

nateoverbey said:


> I'm building a L shaped desk out of plywood etc. I planed on edge banding with molding. My question is should I miter the inside corner of the L or do I cope it? The suspect the corner is pretty close to a perfect 90.
> 
> Nate



Those glue on corners I always miter.












 









.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

I would miter it and get a good fit and work out from there. I use a angle finder then spit the difference, if its 88 degrees I cut (2) 44 degree cuts.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

Definitely miter in This case . Not even a discussion needed than the first reply You got


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## Andrew1 (Jan 12, 2011)

To me, the purpose of coping is to deal with the movement of the wood from expansion and contraction, in addition to cutting the trim a bit long and snapping into place. Also you can choose which side of the two pieces to cope, one is usually more visable to traffice than the other. On walls that are not square, coping can give a more precise fit (with practice).

On a small "very" glued and nailed piece of trim, no need to cope in my opinion.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Typically and traditionally, you don't cope moldings on furniture and cabinetry. Coping is often done with interior architectural moldings, crowns, baseboards, etc. As I'm replying, there is an ad directly above this box showing an intricate crown molding. Do you see it? Although this is an interior architectural molding I wouldn't even attempt coping it. I would bisect that angle favoring a tighter fit at the face.


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

If it`s a piece of furniture...miter it. I don`t know what profile of molding you are using...be where, some moldings can`t be coped.


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