# Table saw miter gauge binds up...



## tra (Dec 27, 2009)

Hello everyone, 

I'm a noob to woodworking, and have been acquiring tools over time because I've always wanted to learn to work with wood. I inherited a Tradesman 8032 10" table saw and the miter gauge binds in it's track. I was told that it always did that, but was curious if I can just buy a new one or if there is any advice?!? 

Also, the rip fence doesn't hold down very tightly and moves under pressure as the material further away from you. 

I appreciate any help or advice you can offer.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Miter guage ?*

As far as the gauge binding it's one or both of 2 things. The slot was not machined well or the gauge bar has become dinged up over time or bent.
Take the bar off the head by unscrewing it and lay it on flat surface, maybe the table saw top, on a piece of 180 wet dry paper with a little light oil. Slide the bar back and forth until the surface is even on all four sides. Try the bar in the slot for fit and if it slides easily that was your problem. If not, find a block of wood that when wrapped with the 180 you can slide it in the miter slot to remove the offending material evenly testing with the bar frequently. You will eventually have a perfect fit.
The fence is another issue and with out photos it's hard to determine a cure for that. Other than taking it apart, removing the crud, cleaning the rails with a Skotchbrite pad and tightening the clamping mechanism that's about all I can recommend on that. :thumbsup: bill
BTW there are 2 slots, right? Does it bind in both slots? If so, then it's the bar, not the slots.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Since the binding of the miter gauge in the track has been described as "always" I would not think it is caused by dings. But check this first as it would be the easiest thing to remedy. Your fingers are a good tool for feeling any dings in the bar.

Does the bar seem to fit the track? That is does it wiggle in the track or does it seem fairly reasonably snug? It is possible that if it is too lose it could get very slightly sideways and bind. 

Check that both the bar and the track are straight. You will need to find something that you are assured is straight to do this. 

Try a light coating of a very light graphite based lube on the bar. Be very careful that you do not get this on the top of the table. Graphite lube is frequently sold for use on locksets.

Do you have a friend with a table saw? If so borrow his/her miter gauge and try it in your track.

George


----------



## Dusty82 (Dec 23, 2009)

Have you tried waxing the miter gauge slot? Take a block of paraffin (or just the base of a candle that'll fit in the slot) and rub it back and forth in the slot a few times. Apply it to the bottom and sides of the slot. I keep a block of paraffin under my table saw and give the slot a few passes every time I use the miter gauge just to keep things slip-sliding away. You don't have to apply a huge amount of wax - in fact, if you can see it building up in the slot, you've applied too much - you just need enough to lubricate the gauge. If you get flakes of wax on the saw table, just blow or wipe them off. They won't hurt anything, but large flakes can leave residue that can get embedded in the piece you're cutting and cause you finishing problems later.


----------



## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

My miter gauge always fit nice in my slot. Then I got the Osborne Miter Gauge and adjusted it so it was a very snug fit. I noticed that the slot in the TS varied in width in certain areas. I took a file and smoothed them out. Now the sticking is much less. 

Waxing the slot is a great idea too. Do both the slot and the miter bar.


----------



## tra (Dec 27, 2009)

Great ideas, and I appreciate the help! :thumbsup:

Yes, the bar binds up in both slots. I'm going to get on in the garage today and check the bar against the table top and a precision straightedge.


----------



## iamwelty2 (Oct 18, 2009)

can you see if it's bent?


----------



## tra (Dec 27, 2009)

I went down there today and saw that the bar had a slight bow to one side. I filed down the high spot a little bit and got it to slide without binding. 

Thank you sirs!


----------



## Clouseau (Mar 22, 2009)

*fence adjustment*

Your fence probably just needs adjusting. I am not familiar with the Tradesman brand. Designs are not that different or complicated. There should be a set screw or two or a nut somewhere to snug up the fit. While you are at it you should check to make sure the fence lines up parallel with the slots with about 1/64 to 1/32" kickout at the rear.
Dan


----------



## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

A few thousandths is more than adequate at the rear of the fence. A 32nd is too much.


----------



## Clouseau (Mar 22, 2009)

Leo G said:


> A few thousandths is more than adequate at the rear of the fence. A 32nd is too much.


 
LEOG is correct if you are skilled and using a high quality carbide-tipped blade. If you are not, then use 1/32. It is safer for beginners.


----------

