# How to remove soft wood while keeping hard wood in a hard to reach area



## mpjbay (Jan 15, 2018)

Hello All, 

I have a gourd and I'd like to remove the soft sponge like material and keep the hard wood. I am working with a 1/2 in ID for access which is where in lies the issue. 

The type of gourd I am working with have a very hard wood shell with a sponge like soft inner layer which is what I need to remove so only the hard wood is available to work with. 

I am currently using a scraper and it works OK however it does not reach everywhere. I also custom made a couple sanding mops but they do not really work. 

Typically I do not like using chemicals but would be willing to if it would solve this issue. Any suggestions for tools or chemical or critters?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Put some water and a handful of aquarium gravel into it and shake hard. Rinse and repeat.


----------



## mpjbay (Jan 15, 2018)

Hi Gary,

I tried this with medium sized coarse sand from a local beach and it did not work. Will a larger gravel work better, if so why?

Thank you for the quick reply.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Be sure it is rough gravel and not pebbles from a creek.

George


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Maybe if you would let the inside dry completely the soft material inside would harden.


----------



## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

mpjbay said:


> Hi Gary,
> 
> I tried this with medium sized coarse sand from a local beach and it did not work. Will a larger gravel work better, if so why?
> 
> Thank you for the quick reply.


You need some weight and sharp edges to get the abrasion. Beach sand is a bit light. Dont fill the gourd all the way up with water either, a third to halfway will do. You need room to slosh and create some inertia in the gravel. 
As Steve suggested letting it dry will make the spongy stuff harden up. You could even use the gravel dry at that point.
What are you making?


----------



## mpjbay (Jan 15, 2018)

I picked up a couple hand fulls of pea gravel. I am making another scraper as well. I will try both an let you guys know. 

I am making a lamp. 

Thank for you help. I do not have anyone local to talk about this stuff with.


----------



## mpjbay (Jan 15, 2018)

The pea gravel worked sort of. I still have a mm or two of soft material on the inside the rocks are not getting off. Any suggestions?


----------



## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Let it dry. Is there a reason it all has to go away?


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Beach sand won't work well since it has been tumbled = worked and all the useful sharp edges have been worn off.
You need "sharp" sand = crusher dust = masonry sand. Still has the sharp edges.

Me? I'd use a wood carving tool called a "scorp." You can reach in and cut away what you like.
Scorps are not cheap. And, they are an advanced issue to maintain "carving sharp" or you get nothing done at all.

Visit your local farrier and see if you can get a few worn down farrier's hoof knives.
The hook at the tip is meant for cleaning the frog on a hoof.
Just so happens, with a 12 degree bevel, that the hook becomes a fabulous scorp for wood carving.

New, the Hall brand farrier's knives cost me $50.00. I give the local farrier $5.00 each for my pick of the pile.


----------



## mpjbay (Jan 15, 2018)

Yes. For the effect I am looking for the sponge material is causing issues so I need to remove all of it.


----------



## mpjbay (Jan 15, 2018)

I looked up what a scorp is and this looks like what I need. I will contact my local ferrier and see if they have any laying around. How do you sharpen them?


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

With a lot of sweat.
The farriers run their knives about 25 degrees, given what they are carving.

I have converted 4 brands for wood carving:
Hall (Canada), Mora/Frosst #171 (Sweden), Diamond #272 (Taiwan) and Ukal/Supervet (France).
Have seen pictures of maybe another 8+ brands, they all should be OK.

I begin with a 7/16" chainsaw file which makes the scorp a little bigger = not a problem.
With a graphic guide, the knife gets clamped to the edge of the bench. I try to cut back the bevel to 12 degrees, no more than 15, and that should work really well for you.
I buy Oregon/Swiss-Made chainsaw files in boxes of a dozen. Each file lasts maybe 2 farrier's knives. 
Just rods of hard steel when I get done with them.

Next, I'll wrap grit grades of 3M fine automotive sandpapers around old chainsaw files (as mandrels) to refine the bevel edge.
Usually start with 400 then 600 then 800 then 1000 then 1500 then hone with chrome green (CrOx) on filing card.

In use,
I find that I rarely ever need to use less than 800 to touch up a dull edge.
= = =
They are very similar to the crooked wood carving knives so common to the native community of the Pacific Northwest.
I've revised less than 20 of them. Also some traditional Haida-style blades. All for daily carving.


----------



## mpjbay (Jan 15, 2018)

Robson Valley this sounds perfect. I emailed a couple local farriers, in the mean time I went to the hardware store and picked up a small washer, threaded rod, screws, nuts, etc. Plan to sharpen the washer around the perimeter and create a tool that may or may not help. I also ordered a surgical hoop scoop sharp but, this will take a few weeks for delivery.

I love BC. Spent a lot of time up there.


----------

