# Walnut finish



## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

I've been making gun cases out of Walnut and finishing them with just Danish oil.Do ya think polyurethane will make a nice finish instead of the oil?Itchy


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## beekeeper (Mar 26, 2009)

*walnut finish*

I cringe at the use of poly for any type of finish.
I would use the danish oil as it is possible to touch it up and poly isn't.
I use a mixture of boiled linsead oil and amber shellac on the gunstocks I make.
The oil lets you work the shellac a little longer and have fewer runs,drips, and errors.
It makes a durable and long lasting finish.


beekeeper


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## Barry Ward (Mar 22, 2008)

I agree,about all I use on anything is oil as I like the natural look it gives the wood.Plus like said it don't take anything to touch it up ,or even recoat it down the rd.
Ken


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I am a fan of lacquer over the natural wood.

G


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Itchy Brother said:


> I've been making gun cases out of Walnut and finishing them with just Danish oil.Do ya think polyurethane will make a nice finish instead of the oil?Itchy



Finishes that have on the label "Finish", like this Danish Oil Finish, are blends with varnish. They can be a stand alone finish.


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## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

I like shellac or lacquer over walnut, although oil looks good as well.


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

Most so called "Danish Oils" are mostly mineral spirits,Watco for example is over 70% ,over 20% linseed oil and less than 10% polyurethane varnish. The small amount of protection is provided by the varnish. If you like this type of finish try making your own-it isn't hard to do.
jerry
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## Barry Ward (Mar 22, 2008)

*Walnut Finish*

I used to use watco,but found out I can mix my own and its not only better,but a heck of a lot cheaper,I mix equal equal parts poly BLO an thinner,or mineral spirits,doen't really matter. I have been adding just a tad more poly in just to see what happens :yes: I get a better finish with this blend.


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

1/3 Tung
1/3 Poly (or any varnish really)
1/3 Spriits (could even cut this portion in half)

Wipe on, wipe off.

I respectfully disagree with beekeepers comments regarding poly


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

I have to agree about polyurethane varnish,while it has its place, I would never use polyurethane varnish on furniture.

jerry
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## Crapgame (May 6, 2010)

I'm surprised at the strong objections to polyurethane. I used Danish oil on a walnut dining room table, applying about four or five coats and sanding it in with progressively finer grits. When that process was done and the oil completely dry, I applied two coats of satin gel urethane for protection. The table is several years old, looks great and it's impossible to tell there's a topcoat over the oil. That being said, I wouldn't have used the urethane had I not felt the need for a more durable surface than that provided by oil.


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## Stick (Aug 23, 2007)

jerry said:


> I have to agree about polyurethane varnish,while it has its place, I would never use polyurethane varnish on furniture.
> 
> jerry


Isn't Poly just a type of varnish though? Haven't furniture makers been varnishing their furniture for centuries? I guess that leads me into the next question... then what would you use on furniture?

Personally, I like the water based wipe on polys for some things. It's easy and dries very quick. Cutting an oil based poly will give you a similar dry time with a touch of amber, so it depends on the species of wood. I like tung oil finish for many others as well... but it takes a while to dry so there's always the issue of dust in the finish at my house (table saw top = finish table).


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## Walnut-nut (Mar 15, 2010)

I have to agree with the sences, shallac or lacquer. Up unitl resently had used shallac on walnut with incredible looking results. When I tried poly(wipe on and spray) It seemed to cover the grain, well that probably would protect the wood, it did not give the grain in the wood that deep grain sparkle that the shallac does. So basically the poly (to me) made the walnut look flat and plasticly. 

my 2 cents
Casey (walnut-nut)


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## Walnut-nut (Mar 15, 2010)

I have to agree with the crowd on this one, shellac or lacquer. Up until recently had used shellac on walnut with incredible looking results. When I tried poly(wipe on and spray) It seemed to cover the grain, well that probably would protect the wood, it did not give the grain in the wood that deep grain sparkle that the shellac does. So basically the poly (to me) made the walnut look flat and plasticly. 

my 2 cents
Casey (walnut-nut)


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## ash123 (Mar 14, 2010)

I stain walnut, seal with vinyl sealer, sand 220, and spray on two coats pre-cat lacquer. If I want to get wild, I cut and spray a pre-coat of alcohol based NGR stain before the lacquer based wiping stains. Black is my favorite under dark mahogany lacquer stain. I don't do oils or poly on millwork, trim, cabinets or furniture.


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## Brian_Hinther (Sep 13, 2009)

The other thing you might consider is a good regular varnish like Pratt & Lambert 38 or Waterlox (not spar varnish). It won't look cloudy like poly, and it will be more scratch-resistant. Poly was designed for floors, so it is resistant to abrasion, but at the expense of being softer.


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## muso48 (May 4, 2007)

*hard waxoil*

Hi, Im from the UK & a really good, easy to use finish that has really caught on over here is Hard Waxoil by Osmo & a few other companies. They make a regular & fast drying versions & they look great on Oak and Walnut
Its as easy to apply as oil, doe'snt darken as much as oil, but is much tougher than oil. Its flooring grade, so pretty tough!
As with any finish, it takes a few weeks to fully "cure" before it becomes scratch resistant.
Dave

ps Does anyone know how to stop walnut fading over time in bright sunny rooms?


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