# Segmented Vase – Build Thread



## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Well, after sitting here this morning enjoying a few build threads, and since I’m in the middle of the project anyways, I figured I would try taking a little stab at it.

The vase is already under way and I have been taking pictures with the thought of maybe putting a little video together later on. I have to admit I was a little leery about doing a build thread as I go without knowing how things will turn out. But since I have the pictures I figured what the hell, I screw up I screw up, (which I have alreadyJ) it’s part of the process. Just a note, I’m fairly new to turning so at the end I may end up with a vase, may end up with a bowl, or maybe even just a fancy coaster. No promises but we’ll see how it goes.:laughing:


First, the vase was laid out using Segmented Project Planner. The vase will have 10 rings of 12 pieces each. Each ring will be 7/8” thick and will be using maple and rose wood (I think its rosewood, wife got it for me for Christmas).

Here you can get an idea of how things should turn out.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

After I have all my boards cut to length width and thickness I start cutting the angles for each ring using my 15 deg sled. And a little safety note, the cut-off is held down with the eraser end of a pencil. Don’t want your fingers in there.:no:









One ring down, 9 more to go.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Once all the segments for each of the rings have been cut each pieces is sanded to remove any of the little stragglers left on the edges from cutting. After that each ring is dry fitted to check for good glue joints and then wrapped with a rubber band to keep all the segments in order till glue up.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I'm liking this. Been wanting to learn this.

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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

If you’ve got good tight joints glue up is pretty straight forward (if not, well I’ll get into that later. One of my screw ups). Put a good coat of glue on one side of a piece and give it a rub against its neighbor to smear the glue on the other guy. Just work your way around and of course the last piece you will have to put glue on both sides.:smile:

After I get glue on every piece I’ll put a rubber band on the ring to hold it all together. With the rubber band holding everything in place, I’ll work my way around the outside to make sure all of the outside edges line up and I’ll also push all the segments flat. After that I’ll put my band (hose) clamp on the ring and snug it up. Then the ring goes into the bowl press sandwiched between two pieces of plywood. Wax paper goes on the top and bottom of the ring to keep it from sticking to the plywood. I’ll add a little pressure from the clamp and then a little pressure from the press, a little at a time for each.

Did all that make sense?:confused1: A couple of pictures would have described it better but the last thing you want to do is grab your camera when you have glue dripping off your fingers.:laughing:

Here’s one of the rings after it's glued up and ready to be sanded flat.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I love the idea of hose clamps. I've been wanting to one of these for a while, but have been procrastinating. Maybe this will inspire me to try one.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

sawdustfactory said:


> I love the idea of hose clamps. I've been wanting to one of these for a while, but have been procrastinating. Maybe this will inspire me to try one.


The hose clamps work great. Lots of people use them for this type of thing.

There is at least one thing you need to look out for when using them that I found out (the hard way). There is a little tab on the inside, right below and a little behind the screw that needs to be centered on the segment or it will cause problems.

I've got pictures to better explain what happened, I just need to get them resized and posted.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

do you take the rubberband off or leave it on?
when you clamp it up do they find their own round or do you have to fiddle with them alot?
seems like everytime i have done something like that it never works for me
nice thread BTW:thumbsup:
thanks


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

I put the rubber band on and then mess with it to get everything lined up. After that I'll put the clamp on it. So yea, I leave the rubber band on. It helps keep everything together while I tighten the clamp down. The clamp will pull them round but I feel better getting everything lined up before the clamp goes on. 

Thanks and no problem


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Once all of the rings are glued up I take them to my sanding disc mounted on the lathe and flatten the tops and bottoms. To be certain that I got the whole ring I’ll scribble some pencil marks on both sides and sand till all the marks are gone.

Gotta watch your fingers, it'll take a fingernail down to the skin in a heartbeat.:laughing:


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Next thing, I’ll cut me a waste block, screw my face plate to it and true the block round on the lathe. (truing the waste block will help me get the first ring centered during glue up. It’s real important to get this first ring centered or else the center point in the bottom will be off.) Once the waste block is trued the first (bottom) ring gets glued to it using the bowl press to apply pressure.

I have picture that shows how I get things centered that I’ll have up in a bit.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

dmh said:


> Next thing, I’ll cut me a waste block, screw my face plate to it and true the block round on the lathe. (truing the waste block will help me get the first ring centered during glue up. It’s real important to get this first ring centered or else the center point in the bottom will be off.) Once the waste block is trued the first (bottom) ring gets glued to it using the bowl press to apply pressure.
> 
> I have picture that shows how I get things centered that I’ll have up in a bit.
> 
> View attachment 34672


Hi.
How about including pics of your press. I need to make one & I'm looking for ideas on which way to go. What do you think about the software you used? Thanks.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

I like the sanding setup, Im gonna have to try that.
Nice thread too.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

I noticed this on a piece I did before. When your segments all come to a point, like on the bottom piece, the center where they all meet doesn’t always look that great. This one didn’t turn out to bad but I wanted to try something different. After seeing a lot of different thing that people do to the bottoms I figured a plug fits my skill level.:laughing:

With the piece mounted back on the lathe I set up my tail stock with a ¾” forstner bit. I’ll drill till I hit waste block material and then back it out. I then swap out the forstner bit with a 1/16” drill bit and finish going all the way through the waste block. This small hole will do a couple of different things. Vent the air and give any excess glue a place to go when the plug is pushed in and it will also serve as a center reference point on the back side of the waste block if I need it later on. Not sure if I will but if I do it will be nice to have.
















The plug turned and sanded to fit.









Plug glued in and turned flush. It won’t be noticed (unless you look inside or on the bottom) but I think it adds a nice little touch.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

jlord said:


> Hi.
> How about including pics of your press. I need to make one & I'm looking for ideas on which way to go. What do you think about the software you used? Thanks.


I like the software. He has a trial version that I played with a month or two back and Santa got me the full version for Christmas. I don't have a lot of experience with it yet but yes i do like it. It's simple and easy to work with. Give it a shot. I think the trail is good for thirty days.

And as far as the bowl press... It's nothing fancy but it works. The mechanical parts were scavenged out of an old scissor jack.


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## Double (Feb 17, 2010)

That's really cool, keep updating!


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

dmh said:


> I like the software. He has a trial version that I played with a month or two back and Santa got me the full version for Christmas. I don't have a lot of experience with it yet but yes i do like it. It's simple and easy to work with. Give it a shot. I think the trail is good for thirty days.
> 
> And as far as the bowl press... It's nothing fancy but it works. The mechanical parts were scavenged out of an old scissor jack.
> 
> View attachment 34699


Thanks for the pics, I'll give the software a try.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Pretty cool stuff!

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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Great tutorial
You do some really nice work.
This gives a few of us great guidelines on how to do these
The center plug makes great sense.....

Thank you


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Okay, you've got me glued to this thread. Very nice tutorial and nice work. Looking forward to the next installment.


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## Theobroma (Nov 19, 2011)

Thanks for the tutorial. This is something I want to try when I get the time. I was trying to come up with a method for sanding the rings because I don't want to have to buy a whole new sanding machine. That plate on the lathe looks pretty straight forward. Thanks for the tip.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Math and angles. Blah! You look like this is not your first rodeo in this area. That press looks very handy. I can't wait to see how it turns out. I think the segmented turnings are some of the neatest looking ones out there.


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Very interesting thread and some cool ideas and techniques. I'm looking forward to see the progress.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Thanks for all the nice words guys! I can’t take credit for hardly any of ideas on how this stuff is done though. Kenbo kinda planted the spark in my head about turning with a razor set he posted here a while back. After that and looking around the web I found out about segmented turning and I was hooked. There’s a bunch of talented people out there doing this stuff and putting it on the net for everyone to see. I’ve just read all I could and enjoyed their work.

I mentioned earlier about me screwing up. Since this is the point to where ring number nine (second from the bottom and the one I screwed up on more than once) gets glued on I figured I’d let you know the screw ups. Maybe it will help keep someone else from doing the same thing.

The first try at this ring left me with a gap between two of the segments that I didn’t really care for. Don’t know why, the dry fit was all good. I decided to make another. The second try at the ring I used some dowels at the middle point in the ring. It basically turns the glue up into two halves and afterwards you just sand the halves flat and glue them together into a ring. This is probably the best method to use but I’m lazy and if I think something might work one way I’ll do it. The only problem is when I tightened up the clamp, a tab on the bottom side pushed up against one of the segments and forced one edge of it out. I didn't notice it untill the glue was dry and I was ready to put the two halves together.









This is what I ended up with. I figured ohhh well, I’ll be the only one that notices it. I sanded the corner off to help my ego and moved on.









I put alignment marks on the bottom and second ring to make sure my joints were staggered. Put glue on both pieces, got it centered, and put them in the press. About 20 minutes later it hit me, I didn’t line up my marks!









Back to the lathe and cut it off.









Finally on my third try on this one ring everything went smooth and like it should.

Sorry for going on about my screw ups but hopefully it will keep someone from making the same mistakes. Plus my wife is tired of hearing me talk about it and I had to tell someone else. :laughing:


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Ok, no more screw ups from here on out (or at least any that I tell you guys and the whole world about).:no:

With the next ring ready to glue here is how I get it centered. The first (bottom of the vase) ring has already been trued round on the lathe. I just snug a clamp on the second ring with a little bit of overhang and cut 4 spacers. Then the spacers go between the clamp and the first ring. After it’s glued up and in the press for about 5-10 minutes I’ll pull the spacers out and take the clamp off. Pretty self explanatory with the pictures. Notice all the alignment marks? :laughing:


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

looking farward to more progress


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

im just glad to see im not the only one that screws up
keep up the good work


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Next ring glued up and it’s back to the lathe. I don’t have anything that I would be comfortable using to hallow this thing out with it all glued up so I’m doing it as I go.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

Any chance we could get a full view of your ring press?


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Were would the world be if there were no screw-ups and learning from them? Thanks for sharing yours so we can learn from them.
Nice progress, keep it coming.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

Excellent thread. Thanks for posting.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

phinds said:


> Excellent thread. Thanks for posting.


Ditto from me!!

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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

slicksqueegie said:


> Any chance we could get a full view of your ring press?


Look back at 1st page. Post #15


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

Im paiently waiting on more pregress:yes:


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

robert421960 said:


> Im paiently waiting on more pregress:yes:


You and me both.:yes: It's been cold down here the past couple of days and it's kept me out of the shop.

Us Florida people don't know how to deal with cold weather so when things start hitting the low 40's we just shut down.:laughing:


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

i lived in jacksonville for 10 yrs and it seemed as cold in the winter as se ky does


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

I agree, It's a different kind of cold. We visit NC at least once or twice a year and 40's there I'm fine with. I don't know, may be it's the moisture in the air or something, but 40's and below gets old real fast around here.

Anyways weather looks good for the weekend and I'm definitely getting back in the shop.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

I had a job to do this morning so I didn’t get as much time to work on the vase as I wanted but did manage to get a couple more rings glued and turned.






















I use a timer because I can't ever remember what time I glued things up.:blink:








And I'll have this waiting for me in the morning ready to go.:yes:


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

so im assuming you are just turning the inside finished right?
im really liking this education you are giving us


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

robert421960 said:


> so im assuming you are just turning the inside finished right?
> im really liking this education you are giving us


Yea, as good as I can get it. I don't have anything that i'm comfortable using (or good enough with) to get to the bottom rings with it all glued up. I'm just using a round nose scraper that I rounded one of the sides a little further around and just kind of blending one ring to the next. Trying to keep the taper down as nice as I can.

This is the first time I've tried anything this deep and narrow so I'm learning as I go also.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

well keep learning lol


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

dmh said:


> I like the software. He has a trial version that I played with a month or two back and Santa got me the full version for Christmas. I don't have a lot of experience with it yet but yes i do like it. It's simple and easy to work with. Give it a shot. I think the trail is good for thirty days.
> 
> And as far as the bowl press... It's nothing fancy but it works. The mechanical parts were scavenged out of an old scissor jack.
> 
> View attachment 34699


Ok. This is now jumped way up on my to do list. What is the maximum thickness that one will clamp?


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

slicksqueegie said:


> Ok. This is now jumped way up on my to do list. What is the maximum thickness that one will clamp?


Probably about 15-16". The opening is about 17" from the particle board to the bottom of the 2x4's on top.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

More gluing and turning...

























I'll be doing this in two halves and probably should have waited and glued the feature ring to the top half. :blink: But we'll see how it goes.









It's getting out there a bit and I was starting to get some vibration on those last two rings. I'll end up building some kind of steady rest before it's all done.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

The top half going together starting with a waste block and the top ring.

BTW, If your looking for a nice true running face pate for your 46-460 this isn't the one. I don't know if it's the fact that it doesn't bottom out like the delta one or what, but I had to true the waste block up about a 1/16 of an inch. Had a pretty good wobble to it.:blink:









One more ring to go after this one.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

ok im confused.why are you gluing a wast block to the top ring?


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

robert421960 said:


> ok im confused.why are you gluing a wast block to the top ring?


I'm layering from the top to bottom now to cut this part.









I don't know how good I'll be able to get to it once everything is glued up so I went this route. After this step I think I'm ready to glue the two halves together.

























I wish I would have glued the Rosewood ring to this part instead. Ooh well, we'll see how things turn out once the two halves are glued together and the waste block is cut off. May have a lot of sanding or a new tool in my future.:laughing:


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

dmh said:


> I'm layering from the top to bottom now to cut this part.
> 
> View attachment 35267
> 
> ...


how are you gluing up the 2 sections?
i wish you would hurry up lol 
great job man


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Great Project.*

WOW !!!
What a great thread. I have been toying with buying a lathe. This is helping my decision making. :laughing:


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Robert I'm thinking you may be more inpatient than I am. The bad (or good) thing about this stuff is most of your time is spent sitting on a stool with a beer in your hand watching glue dry. :laughing:

At the point to where the two halves are ready to be glued together I drill a small hole in the top half’s waste block to keep any pressure from building up inside. Don’t know if it’s really necessary but why not.









When time came to glue it up I was going to put it in the press but with the way I center each ring, and the best way to do it would have had the top part up, I envisioned glue running all the way down to the bottom of the vase. I didn’t want to deal with cleaning that up afterwords so it went to the lathe and clamped it with the tail stock.

















And finally I get to make a decent pile of shavings with this project...


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

i sure hope i didnt souind pushy or impatient in any way.
you are doing a fantastic joc on this in my opinion and im learning alot
ill try to be more patient and drink a few waiting on your next post:smile::smile:


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

robert421960 said:


> i sure hope i didnt souind pushy or impatient in any way.
> you are doing a fantastic joc on this in my opinion and im learning alot
> ill try to be more patient and drink a few waiting on your next post:smile::smile:


Not at All. Just givin ya a hard time. and thanks :thumbsup:


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I know I am coming on to this thread way late, but this is awesome what you are doing.... I LOVE the idea of the screw band clamps, and the whole project as a whole. 

This is yet another reason I want to get a lathe. Keep the good work coming!

Fabian


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Wow that's really looking cool.


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## The Everyman Show (Jul 10, 2009)

This is a great build thread and you are answering questions I have always had about how to build a vase on a lathe. This is looking fantastic :thumbsup:.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

It was time to turn the waste block off of the top part but since I was starting to get some vibration on the middle rings when cutting the bottom half I figured it would be best to build some kind of steady rest. Plus with it hanging off the faceplate about 10 ½” the plywood waste block makes me a little nervous with no support on the other end. (probably would have been best to use a piece of maple or some other hardwood)

I seen one by bobham5 on youtube a while back and liked it. I changed it up a little and it works like a charm.

Anyways the waste block on the top is now gone and the opening is turned to it’s rough size. I’m hoping by the end of this weekend I can get the final turning done and start getting some finish on it.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Holy crap this is awesome. One of these days, once I finished practicing and get a little more confidence and skill under my belt, I'm going to try this. I will most definitely be trying it on a smaller scale than this and working my way up, but just the cutting of the angles, the glue ups and the turning seems like a fantastic all around skill builder project. Thanks again for sharing this one, I'm still loving it.
:thumbsup:


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

man i love that steady you made
it sure is looking good:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

This is fantastic! An excellent build thread that I'll bookmark and maybe try out some time. The steady rest looks great too :thumbsup:


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

After finish turning the opening I removed the steady rest and turned a cone to fit in the end. (had a nice thick piece left over from the center of the steady rest build) This will give me a way to use the tailstock to support the top of the vase for the final turning of the outside.









Tailstock is just snugged up enough with a little bit of pressure to support the piece.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Final turning, sanded through 600 grit and ready for finishing…


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

looking really good


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I'm with Kenbo on this. I am loving this thread. I've got to get way better to ever try this though, very nice steady rest too!

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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

And I can't wait to see the finish you choose. Excellent job man!

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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Three coats of water based poly, cabinetman mix (diluted), so far. (Thanks cabinetman!) Wiped on with a rag and sanded between coats. The way things are looking I will probably end up with about ten coats before it’s done.

BTW, I sanded this thing to 600 before starting the finish. I did it because the paper was there and it only took a few minutes. Plus I wanted to see what it looked like real smooth. :laughing: There’s no real need to if you’re going to use a water based finish. Once you put the water based finish on, the grain will raise and you will have to sand again anyways.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Thanks for all the kind words guys. :thumbsup:


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

man that really is looking good with the poly on it:thumbsup::thumbsup:
cant wait to see it totally finished


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

Turning out great. How many board ft do you have in this project?


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Good question. I didn't even pay attention when I was cutting everything up.:blink:

Looking at the cut list I'm guessing in the 3-4 range.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

The program gives all your measurements? Are they pretty accurate to follow? How do you like it?


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

jlord said:


> The program gives all your measurements? Are they pretty accurate to follow? How do you like it?


Yea, you just enter in your number of sides, layer height, outer diameter and it figures everything out for ya. It seems to be accurate, I cut everything for this project based on that cut list. It also has options to compensate for blade width and cut accuracy.

Like I said before I don't have a lot of experience with it yet (and I'm sure I haven't even scratched the surface of all it will do) but I do like it. It's nice to be able make a change without re-doing a bunch of math. And it also gives you a picture with cut lines to kinda give you an idea of what it will look like. My opinion if your going to do more than one or two of these things it's well worth the 37 bucks.

I forgot. The one thing I didn't fallow is the board length. I gave myself a few more inches so i had a little bit of wood to hold onto when making the last cut on a piece.

Here's a bigger screen shot to kind of give you an idea of the different options and setting. *Edit:* Scratch that, it was bigger, the forum software resized it. :sad:


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

dmh said:


> Yea, you just enter in your number of sides, layer height, outer diameter and it figures everything out for ya. It seems to be accurate, I cut everything for this project based on that cut list. It also has options to compensate for blade width and cut accuracy.
> 
> Like I said before I don't have a lot of experience with it yet (and I'm sure I haven't even scratched the surface of all it will do) but I do like it. It's nice to be able make a change without re-doing a bunch of math. And it also gives you a picture with cut lines to kinda give you an idea of what it will look like. My opinion if your going to do more than one or two of these things it's well worth the 37 bucks.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I think I'll look into getting the software. Just wanted to be sure it wasn't a waste of time.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

More poly, more sanding, more poly, more sanding AND more poly AND more sanding… :laughing:

I’ve put more coats on this than I originally thought I would need to. The reason being that the rosewood has some fairly good size pores in the grain and I wanted to get them filled the best I could for a smooth finished surface. If you look at the first picture you should be able to notice the small dimples I’m trying to fill.

My process. Apply poly, sand with a fine or ultra fine scotch brite pad. Repeat a few times to build up the finish and then sand with 220 grit paper to flatten everything out. Do it again and again until its perfect or I get tired of doing it and say that’s good enough. It’s usually the latter. :laughing:









I’m pretty happy with this so I think I will leave it alone and be done with the finish. The diluted poly has had about 30 minute to cure and then it was buffed with a paper towel.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

dmb that vase is as beautiful as anything i have seen
you have done an outstanding job of explaning the process
i have learned alot from this
thanks 
Robert


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

OK, I’m ready to get this sucker done!! Lets go!

I’ve got the faceplate off and I’m ready to work on the bottom. Remember the small hole I drilled to reference the center in the waste block back in this post? Well, it’s going to come in handy to center the piece on the donut chuck.









I’ll use the tail stock to get it centered on the disc and then tighten everything down.









Hope the wife doesn’t find out what I’m doing with here towel.:laughing: BTW, if anyone decides to build one of these things, be very careful when using it. Those threaded rods spinning around will get ya. I put some tape on the ends so It’s easier to notice when everything is going.









Once everything is setup I’ll leave the tailstock in place and turn the bottom down as far as I can. After that the tailstock is removed and the remaining piece of the waste block is broken off and the bottom gets a final turning. And also according to everything I’ve read you have to sign it.

















AND for entertainment purposes, I want to let everyone know, I screwed up again. When I signed the bottom I misspelled my last name.:blink: I left a letter out.:laughing: Had to turn it off and do it again.:bangin:


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

*Done*

After some practice I finaly got my name right :laughing: and the finish on the bottom.









And it's done.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Beautiful job. That finish looks very nice. 
Thanks for taking the time to show the steps.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

congratulations on the vase:thumbsup:
and the correct spelling of your name:laughing:


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## Tnm9304 (Jan 8, 2012)

That looks amazing. You have set the bar high for us turners that are still learning.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

dmh said:


> Well, after sitting here this morning enjoying a few build threads, and since I’m in the middle of the project anyways, I figured I would try taking a little stab at it.
> 
> The vase is already under way and I have been taking pictures with the thought of maybe putting a little video together later on. I have to admit I was a little leery about doing a build thread as I go without knowing how things will turn out. But since I have the pictures I figured what the hell, I screw up I screw up, (which I have alreadyJ) it’s part of the process. Just a note, I’m fairly new to turning so at the end I may end up with a vase, may end up with a bowl, or maybe even just a fancy coaster. No promises but we’ll see how it goes.:laughing:
> 
> ...


 
This is a fantastic thread as well as the finished vase. I have a question, what package/packages did you buy for the "segment project planner"?


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Bob, It's just the standard Segmented Project Planner. I did the download version for 36.95. If you go to the "Products" page you can see the payment options at the bottom of the page. That's the one I got.



And guys I really appreciate all the props and kind words along the way. It means a lot coming from this group. :thumbsup:

It was a fun project and I learned a LOT. I'm glad I put the process on line. It added that little bit of pressure to try and go that extra step and hopefully it took a little bit of the mystery out of the basics of how it's done.

Now, all of you guys that were on the fence, wanting or wondering how to do it, go give it a shot and lets see what you come up with!:yes:


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

robert421960 said:


> congratulations on the vase:thumbsup:
> and the correct spelling of your name:laughing:


Practice makes perfect! :laughing:


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

outstandin job, beautiful end product.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I'm finally getting caught up on some of my "subscribed" threads, and in absolute awe of what you accomplished here. That vase is incredible!

I can't wait to get a lathe, so that I can start developing my turning skills, so that someday I can reach this level of skill.

One question.... on your steady base thingy.... I see the guides (with wheels on the ends) are bolted down with bolts and wingnuts, but is there anything else that hold the legs in place, i.e. something in the grooves that keeps the legs in position (like a dowel)?

Fabian


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Fabian, Thanks. The pieces that the wheels attach to just set in dado's in the ring section.









And to give everyone a little heads up that may want to try one of these based off this thread. I read an article the other day about bases. Seems I chose one of the worst options.:yes: I hadn't had any problems yet but I figured I would let everyone know. If I do have any problems I'll be sure to post them.

Here's the link to the article. Check it out if you haven't already. It's a good read.


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## bmapple123 (Jan 29, 2012)

Thank you dmh i'm only 17 and last year in my woodshop class as a side project i made one just like this. i kinda flew by the seat of my pants when i made it, i was happy with the results but this year in wood shop i plan to make another one more planned out and more detailed. with this thread you tied up alotta lose ends for me that i struggled with my first one so for that i thank you. heres a picture of my first one if your interested


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

bmapple, that looks great! I bet you got all kinds of ooohhh's and aaaahhh's when you finally got to take it out of wood class. and I like the sign too.:laughing:

Be sure to take lots of pictures and share your next one with us. Looking forward to it.


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## bmapple123 (Jan 29, 2012)

can you go into more detail on how to remove the waste block thats the part im most worried about doing while turning my vase, or at least show how to make the jig for removing it 
-thanks


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## cabomhn (Jan 14, 2012)

bmapple123 said:


> can you go into more detail on how to remove the waste block thats the part im most worried about doing while turning my vase, or at least show how to make the jig for removing it
> -thanks


bmapple, this is what I was referring to when I commented in my thread. 

http://www.tahoeturner.com/instructions.html

Watch at 6:53 and you can see how Malcolm Tibbets takes his vase off of the lathe.


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

bmapple123 said:


> can you go into more detail on how to remove the waste block thats the part im most worried about doing while turning my vase, or at least show how to make the jig for removing it
> -thanks


Post #75 shows how I took the waste block off. If you have any specific questions about it let me know. The donut chuck is just two pieces of ply cut into circles. One gets screwed to the faceplate and the other gets a circle cut in the center. They are just bolted together with threaded rod to hold the piece in place.

If you build one watch out for the threaded rods while your using it (wrap some tape around the ends or something to help with the ghosting). It's probably not the safest thing to put your hand into while it's spinning.:no:


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