# Plywood table how to get thick sides?



## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

i am designing a recording desk and found a cool looking one online. Here's a link to a pic. Link to cool desk
I was thinking of imitating the thickness of the side pieces.

The sides seem to be the thickness of 2-3 pieces of plywood.

How would I go about building those side pieces? Would I simply glue 3 pieces of plywood together? Use some nails? 2 pieces of plywood nailed to 1x1 spacers?

Thanks for your help!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

It does not look thicker than two pieces. You could do that and edge band it so that the ends of the plywood do not show.

Or you could just make it out of wood the thickness that you want.

George


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Glue and clamps, the answer is always glue and clamps, no matter what the question is


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

Haha thanks for the tips.

I have never done any wood project like this. I do not know what will work or what's a dumb idea 
(also don't know what responses are sarcastic 

What is the cheapest and most practical way to build the sides?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

destinationsound said:


> Haha thanks for the tips.
> 
> I have never done any wood project like this. I do not know what will work or what's a dumb idea
> (also don't know what responses are sarcastic
> ...


What are you looking for in a finish? Wood or paint like the one in the picture? Either way you can't use cheap construction grade wood or it will look like it. 
Like George said, looks like two thicknesses of plywood.
If you don't have many clamps you can position the pieces and screw them together from the inside as a way to clamp the glue up. But your going to need some tools. What tools do you have?

Al


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> What are you looking for in a finish? Wood or paint like the one in the picture? Either way you can't use cheap construction grade wood or it will look like it.
> Like George said, looks like two thicknesses of plywood.
> If you don't have many clamps you can position the pieces and screw them together from the inside as a way to clamp the glue up. But your going to need some tools. What tools do you have?
> 
> Al


Thanks al,
I'm going to be using a nice oak or maple plywood from home depot. 7.5mm thick. I am aware of construction wood with chips and holes in it. What I was looking at was very smooth. One sheet is $30-$50.

Is this the correct wood to use?

I will most likely be painting it black or doing a very dark stain. and adding trim along all plywood edges.

My tools
Wood glue
Electric drill (drilling and screwing)
About 5-8 clamps. 3 you squeeze the rest you twist.
Saws
Measuring tape and rulers

Will I be able to accomplish this design with those tools?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

destinationsound said:


> Thanks al,
> I'm going to be using a nice oak or maple plywood from home depot. 7.5mm thick. I am aware of construction wood with chips and holes in it. What I was looking at was very smooth. One sheet is $30-$50.
> 
> Is this the correct wood to use?
> ...


Well yes and no. If your cutting curves, you need a jigsaw with the right blade. 

You can iron on strips to cover the ends of the plywood.

Buy a ROS sander 5" disk size. Only sand with 220 grit or you will sand through the veneer.

Your going to need to learn how to make the joins needed to put the thing together.

Figure out how to screw it together without the screws showing. 

Best of luck. Consult here often.

Al


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## bzguy (Jul 11, 2011)

destinationsound said:


> Thanks al,
> I'm going to be using a nice oak or maple plywood from home depot. 7.5mm thick. I am aware of construction wood with chips and holes in it. What I was looking at was very smooth. One sheet is $30-$50.
> 
> Is this the correct wood to use?
> ...


7.5 MM is a little bigger than 1/4" and the price seems right, but the thickness dos not for this project. 18 MM is used a lot, closer to 3/4".


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## ADHDan (Sep 10, 2012)

I suppose if you're building something that thick you could also use torsion boxes rather than laminating multiple sheets of plywood. It would be cheaper and not as heavy. Home Depot (at least by me) only sells maple plywood in 3/4" thickness, but oak, birch, and sandeply come in 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses too. (I know, I know, technically I'm off by 1/32" on each.)

You also might be able to find somewhat cheaper plywood with only one veneered face, which would work fine if you're laminating or making a torsion box.


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

I had a custom cabinet shop for years and used to build custom audio in my electroniv=cs shop so know a bit about both.With something like this you want weight.Want something you can't bump.Since it's going to be painted anyway go with MDF.Cheap,heavy paintable.No reason for any ply here as it costs more and does not serve a real purpose.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ADHDan said:


> I suppose if you're building something that thick you could also use torsion boxes rather than laminating multiple sheets of plywood. It would be cheaper and not as heavy. Home Depot (at least by me) only sells maple plywood in 3/4" thickness, but oak, birch, and sandeply come in 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses too. (I know, I know, technically I'm off by 1/32" on each.)
> 
> You also might be able to find somewhat cheaper plywood with only one veneered face, which would work fine if you're laminating or making a torsion box.


Your replying to someone with no experience and few tools.

Al


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

One thing is for sure, solid construction, mdf or plywood, is going to weigh a lot. You might think about making it in several pieces that you bolt together.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

PhilBa said:


> One thing is for sure, solid construction, mdf or plywood, is going to weigh a lot. You might think about making it in several pieces that you bolt together.


Good Idea. Knock down Might be easier for him to build and still be strong.

Al


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Good Idea. Knock down Might be easier for him to build and still be strong.
> 
> Al


Ya I was going to make two boxes with outside two side taller than the inside 2. Then the top of desk will slide into place and attach with few screws or none at all. 

Then maybe one piece along the back to stop sagging from the top in the middle.

The top dimensions are going to be 30" by 78" not sure if it will sag much in the middle at that size


I'll post some of my first steps in case anyone is interested and can help me.


Appreciate the support guys


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

destinationsound said:


> Ya I was going to make two boxes with outside two side taller than the inside 2. Then the top of desk will slide into place and attach with few screws or none at all.
> 
> Then maybe one piece along the back to stop sagging from the top in the middle.
> 
> ...


Post the pics dad. We love pics.

Al


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## ADHDan (Sep 10, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> Your replying to someone with no experience and few tools.
> 
> Al


You're absolutely right; consider me properly chastised. Destinationsound, my apologies - it looks like you're getting plenty of good advice that will work just fine with your tools and experience. I'm sorry I didn't read closer before offering advice.


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

i might take your advice and do MDF with a laminate or veneer to cover it.

I'm curious how veneer and laminate hold up to scratching and peeling over time with MDF underneath 

At work we have this cheap IKEA desk with a white laminate covering MDF or some partical board. As usual it gets tiny scratches that you can't even see. 2 years later after moisture from drinks and in the air these tiny scratches have bulged out and are huge and ugly.

Here is a link to a veneer I am thinking of using
http://sklep.artdecor-folie.pl/veneers-veneer-apricot-black-p-45.html

Also, heres a link to the desk build DIY that i found the veneer link from.
https://www.gearslutz.com/board/stu...1-diy-fully-custom-built-studio-desk-b-w.html


Also what's the difference between veneer and laminate? What will be best to cover angles and some rounded corners?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

destinationsound said:


> Also what's the difference between veneer and laminate? What will be best to cover angles and some rounded corners?


To my knowledge, veneer is wood and laminate is generally a plastic or composite material.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

epicfail48 said:


> To my knowledge, veneer is wood and laminate is generally a plastic or composite material.


Well... not really, laminate can be wood. :smile:

If you do decide to go with plywood and paint, don't use oak plywood, it is porous and will show through the paint, pretty tough to make look good.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

BigJim said:


> Well... not really, laminate can be wood. :smile:


Isn't that wood laminate usually half plastic? I guess what I meant to say was veneer is usually pure wood ad laminate is a composite product


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## xmas (Nov 24, 2013)

Destinationsound, there's not much I can offer here that the others haven't already. I just wanted to say i love the project & that looks like an awesome desk. I'd love to see your progress on the build when you get down to it. I fell into woodworking by needing a Dj booth & a couple rack mounts for my home studio. Good Luck & can't wait to see it!


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

HEy all

Appreciate the help so far. I will be buying, cutting, glueing and sanding the MDF this weekend. 

I am now researching veneer. All videos on YouTube involve a huge vacuume plastic bag when adding veneer. Are there easier ways of going about it? 

Can't I just add some regular wood glue and slap the veneer on clamp it, then add a protective finish? Is this whole plastic bag thing required for veneer?

If so, what other options do I have for covering MDF? Should I go the plywood route and stain it?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

destinationsound said:


> HEy all
> 
> Appreciate the help so far. I will be buying, cutting, glueing and sanding the MDF this weekend.
> 
> ...


The vacuum bags are actually the clamping system. You actually described the process pretty accurately, slap on glue and add clamps, its just large sheet of veneer are difficult to apply even pressure to. A vacuum bag does this by using a vacuum to force the two sides of the bad together, usually with cauls in between the bag and the work piece, and excel at applying even pressure across a wide surface. 

To avoid the need for a bag, you could try using regular clamps and some cauls. Picture making a sandwich, with a oversized piece of mdf, the veneer, the side of whatever your making, and another piece of mdf. Add a crapload of clamps around the edge and bam. Not as good as a vacuum bag, but cheaper.

Also, for what its worth, without the proper equiptment i wouldnt recommend wood glue for veneer. A contact cement will work much better with slightly less need for clamps, just roll the glue on, let it sit for a few minutes and press it together. Since contact cement sticks on contact with itself, its a pretty instant bond, just give it a few good wacks. Id also look into PSA veneers, something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wood-Veneer-Cherry-Flat-Backed/dp/B0009V61T4

Not recommending that in particular, just using it as an example. Its a wood veneer with a contact cement already applies to it, kinda like the old PSA sanding discs. Just peel off the backing and stick to the substrate. Not as strong as the traditional "proper" method, but much much easier


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

epicfail48 said:


> The vacuum bags are actually the clamping system. You actually described the process pretty accurately, slap on glue and add clamps, its just large sheet of veneer are difficult to apply even pressure to. A vacuu a vacuum bag, bu


Thanks. Really cleared things up.

2 more things

What about the ironing technique? Apply wood glue to both surfaces let dry to the touch then take extra hot iron and iron together.

Also, how do you suggest dealing with curved corners and tight angles. How do I apply pressure to those tricky areas?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

destinationsound said:


> Thanks. Really cleared things up.
> 
> 2 more things
> 
> ...


I've never heard of the wood glue iron thing, so I won't pitch my thoughts on that. As far as pressing into curves and the like, there's plenty of ways. One of those whalebone stylus thingies would probably be best, but you'd probably do just fine with a rounded over stick


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

So I started cutting the Side pieces that will be glued together. 

The wood I got was flat when purchased in sheets but once cut and possible temperature change, my pieces are bowed out. 

Is this normal? Will my gluing and screwing correct this issue?


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

I know Im a little late in the game here but the pic you posted looks more like a single piece of 3/4 or 4/4 material thats been faced. Or it could be boxed. Its really hard to tell how thats been designed from that one pic. Either way Im willing to bet that its not side by side panels, or even single pieces of really thick solid material.

In addition to being a carpenter for a living Im also a certified audio engineer, so Ive been in a few studios. Generally, housing for equipment is made much like cabinets.


FWIW....


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## woodbadger (Oct 20, 2014)

I hope this project isn't too much for you. I would have recommended trying something simple to start with. If you bought oak plywood and it is bowing/twisting it will be frustrating for you. It is a sign of cheap "big box" plywood. If you were planning on a stained oak, I would have recommended oak veneer on MDF core, and veneered edges. Painted, use MDF ,and veneer edges with a veneer that takes paint well. You could have used 2 layers of 3/4" for the look like picture and give you needed weight to stabilize the unit. With that intricate profile, I'd recommend a full size pattern to pattern route the parts after roughing to size. For some of the assembly knock down fittings would work great.
I commend you for wanting to build this yourself,but I think , after some of your questions that this is a bit too much for your skill level.


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

Thanks for all the help and concern.

The jury is still out on whether my overly ambitious personality is a good or bad thing 

I'm not gonna stop building since in already about $300 in of wood and tools.

Yes I did go for a cheaper plywood because I have a small budget. One side of the ply looks great the other side looks like subfloor quality. I figured since I'm gluing/screwing together I would face the uglies on the inside.

The only 3 edges of the desk legs that I need to be perfect in relation to eachother is, 
bottom
top 
and the top angled part(this is where recording equipment goes on racks want it to be the same for the left and right ears if the rack gear)


Here are some pictures of what I've done so far and the Bowing of wood.




1. Do you think it will flatten out with glue and screws?

2. Once all 8 pieces are cut, how should I go about sanding to make all of them even? Should I glue and screw pieces together then sand? Should I clamp all 8 pieces, sand, then glue and screw?



























Sent from my iPhone using woodworkingtalk.com


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Glue and screws should straighten the bowing out, though me being a belt and suspenders sort of person id recommend putting some clamps on as well


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

Thanks for the tip I will post more pics soon


Sent from my iPhone using woodworkingtalk.com


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

OK, So Done sanding edges and was thinking it is time to paint before i start to attach all the hardware.

Laminate is too expensive for me so was chose paint.

I am hoping to be able to paint black to simulate a look of black laminate. 

What painting technique and supplies will i need to get a smooth clean paint job on my pieces?

Any links to good tutorials or videos would help along with some tips


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

destinationsound said:


> OK, So Done sanding edges and was thinking it is time to paint before i start to attach all the hardware.
> 
> Laminate is too expensive for me so was chose paint.
> 
> ...


Prime it before you paint, and make sure to sand the primer well. You might look into automotive primer. Little bit more spendy than your standard primer, but the automotive stuff is usually more of a thinned body filler than a primer. Couple coats of that, then sand it nice and smooth. After that, paint as normal. To replicate the look of laminate, id go with an oil based enamel. Can be a pain to get right, but its got more of a glossy, slick look to it.


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## trusted604 (Nov 7, 2014)

*Re:how to get thick sides*

Lots of good ideas above , I like the idea of using 2 identical pieces of plywood and wrapping the edges with some 1/4 inch stock sawn out of a solid piece .


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

Sorry for the delay I'm still workin on the desk. It's at my parents house so process of working on it is slow.

I sanded all sides and smoothed the edges using 320 grit paper.

Then started the painting process with kiltz 2 Latex primer. After 4 coats its starting to look smooth. I think I will stop at that and sand it smooth.

I will be finishing primer and sanding this coming week will check back in with results


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## destinationsound (Sep 29, 2014)

Sorry for not posting my last set of pics. Before primer I used wood glue to stick the pieces together and then used about 20 screws to hold in place. 

I then clamped all pieces and used my grandpas old school tool (not sure of name) and a hand held belt sander to even all pieces out the same.


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