# Is there a drill press with a movable head?



## jtrom (Dec 27, 2011)

I am still trying to find a drill press to drill 5 inch deep holes. The part I am drilling is 9 feet long so I can't do the raising the table method. Do they make reasonably priced drill presses with a head that can move up and down? (the long throw quill dp's are too $$$$$$)


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

What are the dimensions of your work piece? 9'x?x?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

How about one of these?

You might be able to come up with a jig or adapter so you can affix it to the end of your workpiece while drilling.

http://woodworker.com/drill-guide-w38-chuck-mssu-946-273.asp?search=Drill accessories&searchmode=2


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## jtrom (Dec 27, 2011)

jharris said:


> What are the dimensions of your work piece? 9'x?x?


9' X 7" X 4.5"....it's a wooden spar for an airplane. Perfect ream fit holes need to be drilled throuh the 4.5 inch face to attach fittings.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

I'm sorry. I have no idea what a "ream fit" hole is. Also, when you use the words "perfect" and "airplane" I have doubts about advising you. 

I Like to think I'm pretty good but the consequences of taking my advice regarding aircraft parts could (and probably would) be disastrous.

I believe I'll bow out gracefully.

Sorry


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## johnjf0622 (Feb 8, 2008)

Depending the size of the hole and type drill bit you are using, there are extensions out there that you can buy to get you the extra length you need to drill it through


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## Huxleywood (Feb 24, 2012)

jtrom said:


> I am still trying to find a drill press to drill 5 inch deep holes. The part I am drilling is 9 feet long so I can't do the raising the table method. Do they make reasonably priced drill presses with a head that can move up and down? (the long throw quill dp's are too $$$$$$)


 
The DPs with moveable heads are (significantly) more expensive than the low end of the 6" quill travel DPs. 

How large a diameter is the hole?


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## Bob R (Sep 22, 2010)

jtrom said:


> I am still trying to find a drill press to drill 5 inch deep holes. The part I am drilling is 9 feet long so I can't do the raising the table method. Do they make reasonably priced drill presses with a head that can move up and down? (the long throw quill dp's are too $$$$$$)


 
Here's just what you need.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=28854


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

jtrom said:


> 9' X 7" X 4.5"....it's a wooden spar for an airplane. Perfect ream fit holes need to be drilled throuh the 4.5 inch face to attach fittings.


That is a pretty good sized spar. What are you refurbishing?

You are obviously working in a large hanger or hanger type facility. Get a benchtop drill press. Many of then have "swing arm" heads. My old Craftsman does. Mount this drill press on some structure overhead that will have the head at least 10 foot off the floor. Then get on your ladder and drill away.

George


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## jtrom (Dec 27, 2011)

A "ream" fit just means no slop...the bolt should be contacting all the surface area of the inside of the hole, througout the entire length. The bolt should need light taps with a mallet to be inserted in the hole. The bolt diameter is 1/4 inch. What is the going used price for a 6" travel quill drill (that rhymes!) On CL?


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## jtrom (Dec 27, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> That is a pretty good sized spar. What are you refurbishing?
> 
> George


The plane is a scratch-build 2 place homebuilt amphibian made from Sitka Spruce. I am not anywhere close to finishing the spar, but trying to buy tools to use on the project and these holes are the most difficult and critical holes on the airplane


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## jtrom (Dec 27, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> That is a pretty good sized spar. What are you refurbishing?
> 
> You are obviously working in a large hanger or hanger type facility. Get a benchtop drill press. Many of then have "swing arm" heads. My old Craftsman does. Mount this drill press on some structure overhead that will have the head at least 10 foot off the floor. Then get on your ladder and drill away.
> 
> George


The holes are drilled on the face of the spar, not vertically down the length. A drill press with 5 inches of quill travel would solve everything....I am just wondering how cheap I can get one for.....


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## Huxleywood (Feb 24, 2012)

Again, what is the diameter of the hole. there may be an easy solution.


BTW he doesn't need a radial drill press or one who's hed rotates off the table, it is NOT the length or width or angle that is an issue. He needs a long quill stroke OR something that accomplishes a deep hole without it.


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## jtrom (Dec 27, 2011)

The holes are a quarter inch in dia


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## Huxleywood (Feb 24, 2012)

jtrom said:


> The holes are a quarter inch in dia


To small for my idea.


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## jtrom (Dec 27, 2011)

I think I need to bite the bullet and buy a dp with the long quill travel....what should I be looking for on CL?


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## Joe in MI (Jan 20, 2012)

I would call this a "bubba solution" which may not be the best for an airplane. You have a long drill bit to drill through this, right? So, what if you set the drill press up and drill the hole until the quill bottoms out. Then, block the spar up so that the bit goes into the hole before you even start drilling again. Turn on the DP and complete the hole. I would think any floor model drill press would be able to do this. It may even be better to start the hole with a shorter bit, then change to the long one, so that the long one has the hole as a guide to prevent it from walking or deflecting.


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## Zircon (Aug 1, 2009)

Why not get two 1/4" drill bits, a short one and a long one. Drill 3" with the short one and then put the long one down the hole and chuck it up and then finish the hole.


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

Here's one for $1,750 + freight.
http://www.riverroadmachinery.com/viewitem.asp?itemid=260

If it was me, I'd be looking at some of the suggestions above and modifying one to fit my need. But then again, as someone else above alluded to - it's not me who has to go up in the airplane when it's all built. 
There's a link above to a portalign knockoff, one of those things you clamp your drill bit into and you get a portable drill press. Hint. The two rods that hold the round piece you lock your drill into, they're just plain steel rods that look suspiciously like the ones they sell at the end of the aisle at Home Depot. In any length you need. No reason you couldn't find one of those on the cheap, then go buy a couple of long rods - the only limitation is the length of your drill bit.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

jtrom said:


> A "ream" fit just means no slop...the bolt should be contacting all the surface area of the inside of the hole, througout the entire length. The bolt should need light taps with a mallet to be inserted in the hole. The bolt diameter is 1/4 inch. What is the going used price for a 6" travel quill drill (that rhymes!) On CL?


Thank you sir. Now I know.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

*Powermatic 1150*

My Powermatic 1150 has both a movable head and 6" swing. These can be found on Ebay, Craig's List, and government auctions. They are pretty plentiful and are an excellent DP. With your tolerance needs you will need to know how to tune your DP within an inch of it's life so there is virtually no runout. I actually have two 1150s at the moment. Here are pix as examples:

1150A - I believe from the late 1970's









1150 - 1970 vintage (awaiting cleanup/refurb)


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## vinnypatternmaker (Mar 27, 2011)

*increase bore*

Hi!
Technically. a "ream fit" is more commonly known as a "friction fit", as there exists no draft angle (as in morse or jacobs fits, for example), whereby a ream fit ususally involves straight bores of the same or similar diameter, depending upon stock.
How about an *old used* Shopsmith in horiz. or vert. DP mode?
Since the head slides over 2 columns, its alignment remains true over it's full length of travel (well over 2.5')! Head on this machine *can't *by design, lose orientation. This eliminates the need for longer bits (usuable flute length must be at least 5" in your case). Also, if bit length is not long enough, realignment is made easier since there is no need to keep bit in bored hole, so long as you have a reference jig (homemade) to realign stock after flip-over process is done, in this case). See www.shopsmith.com, and link towards DP demos and videos. 
A better solution may be to look for *used circa 1970's and before* Craftsman DP's, since most had a sliding head, though they lacked the double column advantage of the somewhat under-rated Shopsmith system. 
Best,
Vinny


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Vinny's Shopsmith idea is an excellent one! I don't know about your area but these pop up on Craigslist frequently around here at pretty reasonable prices. As a horizontal boring machine it might be right up your alley for what you're trying to do!


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## johnjf0622 (Feb 8, 2008)

It is a no brainer you want this to be perfect the first time being it is for a plane. It is just a bummer that the price you would have to pay to get what is needed to complete this task. Not knowing if you need a new DP or if it is because of the task at hand. What if you were to get a hold of a local wood shop and see if you were able to get them to get these drilled for them or you even paying a fee to used their DP to perform this task? if it is a one time thing you could save $$$ that way. Just my 1-1/2 cents


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## jtrom (Dec 27, 2011)

Great ideas on here..thanks!

I have decided to look for an old industrial drill press that has a 5" quill depth or greater. I really need time praticing with a tool before I attempt using it on the airplane project. (we all know our own machines have their own quirks that take time getting used to). I am in mid-Michigan if anyone has any leads.

Thanks!


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## AlWood (Apr 18, 2010)

jtrom said:


> I am still trying to find a drill press to drill 5 inch deep holes. The part I am drilling is 9 feet long so I can't do the raising the table method. Do they make reasonably priced drill presses with a head that can move up and down? (the long throw quill dp's are too $$$$$$)


Forget about drill press; use instead a good sufficiently powerful electrical hand-drill. Using braces, affix it horizontally at your work-table (make sure the drill piece is strictly parallel to the table surface). Then make a simple jig that can hold your work-piece and allow you to advance it toward the drill (e. g. by using a long screw used for putting pressure on plywood; you can also simply pull out a screw from any of your wood vices); attach the jug to the table top by clamps and make sure it moves paralles to the drill-piece. So, it would be an "inverse" drill-press -- moving your job instead of moving drill head. I've done this kind of things before; it works. Of course, you have to do test-runs first.


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