# Delta Table Saw Power Switch



## walnutavenue (Nov 9, 2011)

This switch failed on my Delta table saw: 

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-4380101...020184&sr=8-5&keywords=delta+table+saw+switch

I need to replace the switch, but do not want to replace it with the exact Delta part that has already failed me once. Can anyone guide me to a replacement switch that fits, or a whole new switch assembly if there is no other option?


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## walnutavenue (Nov 9, 2011)

I should add: the saw model is 36-979, with a 1.5 hp, 115V, 15 amp motor.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It won't be a direct fit, but it would be worth your time reworking the saw to use something like this. Grizzly also has them cheaper, but you'll need to order a few parts from them. 

http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

Well, I don't pay the high price for to replace a dedicated item like a switch.

I'd use a house hold metal box mounted to the saw and then just use a good light switch. You may have to extend the wires but no big deal. Done it, works good. Usually the light switch is heaver duty than the original. You might have $5-$6 dollars in it when done.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

tewitt1949 said:


> Well, I don't pay the high price for to replace a dedicated item like a switch.
> 
> I'd use a house hold metal box mounted to the saw and then just use a good light switch. You may have to extend the wires but no big deal. Done it, works good. Usually the light switch is heaver duty than the original. You might have $5-$6 dollars in it when done.


I think what you want to do is a MAJOR safety problem. Little light switch does not have a button that is easy to find and hit in an emergency.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

walnutavenue said:


> This switch failed on my Delta table saw:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Delta-4380101...020184&sr=8-5&keywords=delta+table+saw+switch
> 
> I need to replace the switch, but do not want to replace it with the exact Delta part that has already failed me once. Can anyone guide me to a replacement switch that fits, or a whole new switch assembly if there is no other option?


The odds of another switch failure are very small. Just replace with original.

George


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

Woodstock D4160 110-Volt Paddle Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005W17HYY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tO7Sub051S6SN

This is one I use on my table saw. It mounts right inside of an electrical box. I wouldn't recommend using the slide in connectors to connect the wires on these. I would solder them to the posts inside the switch.


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## juice3250 (Mar 27, 2014)

Also, I would steer clear of a regular light switch. It would be too easy to bump it with your leg or knee.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think it would be a lot easier to just replace the factory switch. The factory replacement switch functions the same as a household light switch. If you are not wanting to use the replacement switch I would just use a light switch. While it's true you can easily bump it and turn the saw on you will have to install a box anyway. Just locate the box in a place not easily bumped. As far as the emergency stop, in more than 40 years of working professionally I've never had to use an emergency stop. In fact I had to relocate the switch on my unisaw because it had an emergency stop and I kept bumping the stop button while I was cutting creating a danger that wasn't there.


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## walnutavenue (Nov 9, 2011)

I took my broken switch to Grainger; they were able to provide a replacement for under $10 that fits in the same assembly, but is a rocker switch rather than the paddle-off type original. 

I'd like to think that the chance of another switch failure is low, but I just replaced the switch in my jointer a few hours before this one failed. Both switches are made by "Kedu." You can be sure I'm not buying another one of those.

If Grainger didn't have anything, I was going to go with the light switch method. I have exactly that on my bandsaw. The switch is mounted to the wall next to the machine, about shoulder-high. It would be pretty hard to accidentally bump a switch that's 5 ft off the ground. When was the last time you stumbled into a light switch and turned it on by accident? Besides, the factory switch on that bandsaw was mounted to the side of the cabinet about 2 ft from the floor. If you lean over to reach it, you put your face right in front of the blade. Now that's a safety hazard! The wall mounted light switch is a vast improvement. 

The Kedu switch on the table saw failed in the ON position... good thing there was no emergency and pulling the plug out of the wall was convenient. The light switch on the band saw has never failed. So which one is the safer one?

I'm not trying to be anti-safety, I'm just saying that there's a reasonable limit on how safe you can make a woodworking shop. Each person needs to decide for themselves (perhaps with some supervision) what that level of safety is. If a person is so accident-prone or clumsy that a lightswitch creates a dangerous situation... how can they safely do _anything_ in the shop? Wanna make your shop as safe as possible? Turn off the lights, lock the door, and never go back in there.


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

Since it sounds like you are going with a light switch, you can get a 15 amp switch which is a heavy duty switch. Heavier than the average household switch (10 amp). To be honest I don't know what the amperage rating for the original switch is but they don't look or feel all that heavy.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

He found a replacement switch at grainger


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