# Glass Railing



## Keshik (Mar 13, 2012)

Hi, brand new here!

I'm planning on building a wood/glass railing for my house and have a couple questions:

I'm planning on embedding a 3/8" thick piece of tempered glass on the top and the bottom in wood (see attached picture - single section shown). To do that, I need to cut a slot in the wood. What would be the best way to do that? ? Would it be better to use a dado blade on my table saw or to use a router? I currently have a table saw but don't have a dado blade or a router (or router table). What would be the better use of my money to purchase? I'm currently leaning towards the router. This project will be a combination of this project and the top row of this one.

Another question that I have is about mounting the posts to the floor. What would be the strongest way of doing that? I'm currently planning on notching the newel posts and screwing or bolting the posts into the floor joists. I don't currently have access to the far side of the joists but for most of them I could cut through drywall to get to the far side.

Also note that the attached image isn't complete and doesn't show fasteners or the other sections of the railing plan. I've also attached a zoomed out view (ignore the white posts, those were from an old idea) so that it is possible to get a view of the overall setup.


Thanks for any help!
Keshik


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If I understand your description, you could notch the posts, or a fitted lift out/off section that would allow you to screw/lag the post to the floor. Or, mortise holes in the bottom rails (below the glass), to set screws or lags.

I would use a router. You can set up a temporary router table very easy.









 







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## Keshik (Mar 13, 2012)

I was planning on notching the posts. My question was whether using lag screws would be strong enough or if I should make holes in the drywall to be able to use bolts instead (figured that would be much less likely to pull/strip out.

Question about your comment in regards to mortising the bottom rail. I figured that I could make countersink holes in the trough of the bottom rail and use that to secure it to the floor. Those screw head should then be hidden. Were you thinking of mortising the bottom rail sideways into the post?

Thanks for the response!


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## kg7il (Feb 24, 2011)

Keshik said:


> I currently have a table saw but don't have a dado blade


My thoughts lean towards the dado blade,
You have the table saw and can get there faster and cheaper with a good dado blade.

I wouldn't want to hand hold the router as I rout a quantity of narrow surfaces. Jigs, router tables are great and will make it easier, but add time or money. 

A dado blade (and appropriate insert) allows you the stability of the table saw while machining the wood.


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## Keshik (Mar 13, 2012)

Well, I just bought an almost new Porter Cable 693 router off Craigslist for $110 12 hours ago, so that ship has sailed a little bit.  I'm okay with having a few extra tools around and figured I could use the router to curve the edges of the bottom piece as well. Heck, I suppose I could even make my own hand rail now with it. My wife also wants a built in bookcase at some point so I'm sure it will be handy there too.

Question about notching the posts: what would be the best way to get a perfectly square intersection? Use a table saw with a dado blade and make a series of small cuts across the board until I get it far enough back to make the lengthwise cut?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Keshik said:


> Question about notching the posts: what would be the best way to get a perfectly square intersection? Use a table saw with a dado blade and make a series of small cuts across the board until I get it far enough back to make the lengthwise cut?


Are you meaning making a channel for the frame?










 







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## Keshik (Mar 13, 2012)

Sorry it I wasn't clear. See the attached picture:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Keshik said:


> Sorry it I wasn't clear. See the attached picture:


You could do that a couple of ways. If you do it on the TS, account for the curvature of the blade and where the furthest point stops (for both directions). The higher the blade...the lesser of the angle. Finish with a hand saw or a jig saw. It can be done easily with a band saw (if you have one). Or, it can be done with a jig saw, or a hand saw.










 







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## Keshik (Mar 13, 2012)

I don't have a band saw but I do have a jig saw and a hand saw. I think I have a plan for that figured out now.


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## kg7il (Feb 24, 2011)

Keshik said:


> Well, I just bought an almost new Porter Cable 693 router


This is a good thing! Every project should come with a new tool.




Keshik said:


> Question about notching the posts... Use a table saw with a dado blade..?


This is do-able, but it sounds like you'll attack it with the jig saw and hand saw. The table saw might be a good way to make the shoulder cut. It would also get you close for the ripped portion.
As cabinetman mentioned, account for the curvature. You can adjust the fence and flip the post to increase the controlled cut, then finish with the handsaw.

My luck (or skill) with my wobbly jig saws limit it to curves in thin stick.


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## Keshik (Mar 13, 2012)

Why do you think I do things myself instead of paying someone to do it? So I can buy another tool with my savings!

Yeah, I don't think that I can cut that straight of a line, particularly through a thick piece like a 4x4 with a jigsaw. Probably use the big saws and hand finish.

I just came across an 8" band saw on CL for $60. A Delta 28-180. Would this be worth getting? I don't have the budget or the space for a full size one at this point.


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## kg7il (Feb 24, 2011)

Keshik said:


> I just came across an 8" band saw on CL for $60. A Delta 28-180. Would this be worth getting?


Hard for me to answer this for you. I am always up for a new tool. This saw may be strained on the 4x4's, and possibly wander due to blade size.

If you limit your additional investment to a blade or two, you could turn it on CL at a later date.

I have two bandsaws in my home shop. One is set for straight line and resaw. The other has a smaller blade for curves or thin stock.

Depending on your planned and emergent projects, this may be a great addition for a fairly low price. 4x4 however ? ?


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## Keshik (Mar 13, 2012)

kg7il said:


> Hard for me to answer this for you. I am always up for a new tool. This saw may be strained on the 4x4's, and possibly wander due to blade size.
> 
> If you limit your additional investment to a blade or two, you could turn it on CL at a later date.
> 
> ...


I'm not planning on getting into resawing, just have something for doing smaller rips. One of my goals would be to go through 4x4s, though only occasionally. How would a saw that size do going through a 4x4 if it has a fresh, sharp blade and I go slow?

Question: what does the size in a bandsaw mean? For example, what is the 8" referring to?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Keshik said:


> Question: what does the size in a bandsaw mean? For example, what is the 8" referring to?


The 8" would mean that there is 8" between the column and the blade. A 14" means there is 14".










 







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