# Edge Joining With KREG Jig



## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

A little shelf project for the living room. Eight screws per joint. Maybe overkill?:icon_smile:


Shelf dimensions:

1.200 thick, 11.23 deep, 11' length. For displaying ceramic Christmas houses.

After letting the first joint dry overnight, tried busting it apart with a 2 lb. sledge, no movement at all.:thumbsup:

Screwed and glued.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

That's pretty good for end grain. I had no idea that it would be so strong. I always try to avoid an end grain joint. Maybe not any more.
Thanks for the tip.


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## bluedome (Oct 25, 2011)

How did you get the ends flat and square? Just the table saw?


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I've noticed something similar with poplar, Kreg and TB-III.

It was a face frame and I had to take the joint apart after about 45 minutes. (End grain to edge grain.) With leverage I was able to break the joint apart. HOWEVER even after 45 minutes the glue joint was stronger than the wood! I pulled edge grain off when disassembling the joint. 

The Kreg screw is a clamping device and TB-III joints should be clamped. (Isn't that what the manual says? :thumbsup: ) Amazing what happens when we follow the instructions.

Now, all that aside... In my house...

Ceramic / Shop built shelf / Possibility of sleeping in the truck bed ...

I think that I'll pass. :laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Half laps would be the way I would join end to end. Screws weaken the end structure of both pieces. IMO, that method is a very weak joint.












 







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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Finger jointing is faster/stronger....just sayin.BW


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

bluedome said:


> How did you get the ends flat and square? Just the table saw?



Just a square, and circular saw.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Half laps would be the way I would join end to end. Screws weaken the end structure of both pieces. IMO, that method is a very weak joint.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Just depends on "who" is making that joint. :laughing:


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## WHWoodworking (Nov 1, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Half laps would be the way I would join end to end. Screws weaken the end structure of both pieces. IMO, that method is a very weak joint.
> 
> .


If it was weight-bearing with the board in a horizontal position, i.e. pressure against the face, then maybe. But if it was being used for a table apron or other application where any load was against the edge, then it would be plenty strong. OP did say it withstood a 2lb hammer blow.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cabinetman said:


> Half laps would be the way I would join end to end. Screws weaken the end structure of both pieces. IMO, that method is a very weak joint.


I would also suggest that a tongue and groove would be another choice.









 








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## Artisan1993 (Oct 29, 2011)

H. A. S. said:


> After letting the first joint dry overnight, tried busting it apart with a 2 lb. sledge, no movement at all.:thumbsup:


Well that's one way to make sure a joint is strong:blink:


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

AFAIK, you're really only supposed to use a single screw at each location rather than pairs of screws. If you wanted to use 8 screws, I'd maybe put 4 in each board with an offset stagger.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

*Finally Mounted*

I'm going to let it sit on the Corbels/Brackets for a few days and let it relax. Bumped it a couple times bringing it in from the barn, still solid as a rock. Wifey loves it, too. Here it is with only one ceramic Christmas House. She will have it full before Christmas.:laughing::thumbsup:


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## mackem (May 20, 2007)

:thumbsup: If the wife's happy, that's all that matters.:yes::laughing:


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

Should have no problems with that nbr of support brackets.
johnep


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## omextreme (Nov 18, 2011)

Lookin good...


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