# Reinforced 3-way Miter Joint



## buktotruth (Nov 15, 2010)

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to make a simple box that has plexiglass walls. I was thinking of doing this with 3-way miter joints all around the box, but I'm not sure they'll be strong enough (given the end grain joint). Any thoughts on either a) how to reinforce them or b) an alternative build suggestion?

Below is a quick sketchup version of what I'm thinking for the corners


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

buktotruth said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm looking to make a simple box that has plexiglass walls. I was thinking of doing this with 3-way miter joints all around the box, but I'm not sure they'll be strong enough (given the end grain joint). Any thoughts on either a) how to reinforce them or b) an alternative build suggestion?
> 
> Below is a quick sketchup version of what I'm thinking for the corners


You are correct a simple mitre is likely not strong enough due to all the end grain.

If you want the look of a 3 way mitre, the best method of construction I have seen to date is this "chinese" 3 way mitre. Good explanation.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/34825/3-way-miter-joint-chinese-style

This is not for the faint of heart. :laughing:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Dave Paine said:


> You are correct a simple mitre is likely not strong enough due to all the end grain.
> 
> If you want the look of a 3 way mitre, the best method of construction I have seen to date is this "chinese" 3 way mitre. Good explanation.
> 
> ...


no kidding:boat:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If the joint scares you*

Consider this. Think of making a mitered or bevel sided box. Make your panels in the rectangular form, then bevel or miter all the edges like you would if the panels were solid hardwood or plywood. The joints will take care of themselves if the plexiglas panels are structurally sound. A bond of adhesive or silicone in the dado/groove will hold them together while the bevels are carefully cut on the edges. Your saw must be set dead on at 45 degrees. A sharp blade of 60 teeth or so should give a nice clean edge. I haven't done it this way so you are on your own with this suggestion, but I have made solid panel boxes this way.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

buktotruth said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm looking to make a simple box that has plexiglass walls. I was thinking of doing this with 3-way miter joints all around the box, but I'm not sure they'll be strong enough (given the end grain joint). Any thoughts on either a) how to reinforce them or b) an alternative build suggestion?
> 
> Below is a quick sketchup version of what I'm thinking for the corners


Just a few questions: 

When you say "plexiglass walls", are you meaning wood framed acrylic panels? 

IOW, see through on all 4 vertical sides? 

If the panels are wood framed, what is the size of the frame pieces and what species?

What will be the overall size of the box?









 







.


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## buktotruth (Nov 15, 2010)

First, regarding the Fine Woodworking article. I saw that and it seems just a bit more complex than I'd like 

As for the questions:

The box will be roughly 16" long x 8" deep x 8" high. And yes, the idea is to have all four sides transparent (actually 5...including the top...though this is easier as it will be a hinged top so I basically just need to make a simple frame). The bottom will be a base that the four "walls" (plexiglass framed walls) are glued to and the top will be open (plus hinged lid).


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

What is the size of the frame pieces and what species?









 







.


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## buktotruth (Nov 15, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> What is the size of the frame pieces and what species?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


All TBD...maybe 1.5" square. Probably ash, walnut, our cherry (what I currently have in the shop)

Jeff

Sent using Woodworking Talk


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