# Can Ash wood really be finished?



## jdw6 (Jun 8, 2011)

I'm a fresher here
I have a Ash snooker cue that I have de-lacquered to prepare for an oil finish. Now most of the good oil finished cues that I have seen and touched are level with no undulations on the chevrons or the arrows. Iv tried 3 coats of an oil based grain filler and it helped a little but I can still feel and see it dipping on the chevron/arrows..
How can I get it level, spherical and smooth? :icon_smile:

Thanks a bunch
Jason


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jdw6 said:


> I'm a fresher here
> I have a Ash snooker cue that I have de-lacquered to prepare for an oil finish. Now most of the good oil finished cues that I have seen and touched are level with no undulations on the chevrons or the arrows. Iv tried 3 coats of an oil based grain filler and it helped a little but I can still feel and see it dipping on the chevron/arrows..
> How can I get it level, spherical and smooth? :icon_smile:
> 
> ...


When you had it stripped was the time to sand it smooth. If your grain filler is dry, try sanding.












 







.


----------



## jdw6 (Jun 8, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> When you had it stripped was the time to sand it smooth. If your grain filler is dry, try sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, yes I did sand it after and got it smooth then used the filler with sanding between coats but still there are slight bumps. What about a shellak or a silicone?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jdw6 said:


> Thanks, yes I did sand it after and got it smooth then used the filler with sanding between coats but still there are slight bumps. What about a shellak or a silicone?


Exactly what grain filler and oil did you use?











 





 
.


----------



## jdw6 (Jun 8, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Exactly what grain filler and oil did you use?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It is an oil based filler by Morrells in the UK. This is what is on the tin: Natural mahogany thixo-tropic filler. contains: Silica crystalline. Oh and its really strong toxic stuff.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You may be having a problem because the arrows and chevrons are a much denser material that the cue shaft. If you sand by hand (without using a sanding block) you will find that the ash sands quicker then the other material. Use a sanding block that is large enough to always be touching each side of the inserts.

George


----------



## jdw6 (Jun 8, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> You may be having a problem because the arrows and chevrons are a much denser material that the cue shaft. If you sand by hand (without using a sanding block) you will find that the ash sands quicker then the other material. Use a sanding block that is large enough to always be touching each side of the inserts.
> 
> George


Hi George, because its a Cue stick I'm using cut-down sections of differing sizes of plastic pluming pipes and sanding along with the grain with 400-1500grit. And I'm finding however much I sand the cue the chevrons always dip slightly, hence the ripple effect when sliding the fingers along the shaft.


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i'm guessing the uneveness is a result of sanding differant wood/materials. it looks like a laminated product (or heavily grained). sanding sometimes removes more material on the softer areas and less material on the harder - resulting in uneven surfaces.


----------

