# Spare Minutes = Endgrain Cutting Board CAD



## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

Hi all.

I can't tell you how inspired I have gotten, over the last few days, by looking at all the different projects that have been posted here.

There are two that have really peaked my interest. 
Cutting Boards & Pen's.

At this point in my wood working career, I've stuck to Joinery and is where I feel most comfortable, never before touching a lethe. I know, once I do, I'll be hooked.

I've decided to start with the cutting board!

I'm super stoked about it, as my second passion is cooking. (What guy doesn't like great tasting food?)

I CAD'd up a plan using Adobe Illustrator and I'm heading to the wood supply store (Windsor Plywood) this morning to get the materials. 

Any suggestions or advice for a first-timer?


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Substitute walnut for the wenge. Wenge is very pricy and a little oily...might not glue well. Also be careful when sanding as the paduak dust may stain your maple a little reddish.


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

sawdustfactory said:


> Substitute walnut for the wenge. Wenge is very pricy and a little oily...might not glue well. Also be careful when sanding as the paduak dust may stain your maple a little reddish.


Thanks for that info. 
Do you think Bloodwood would stain the maple, as Padauk?


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## whatalesyou1 (Mar 18, 2011)

Give this a shot to design boards: CBDesigner

Do you have a plan for smoothing the end-grain? I found a local cabinet maker that was willing to run my boards through his wide belt sander. It saved me a ton of time and energy!


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

whatalesyou1 said:


> Give this a shot to design boards: CBDesigner
> 
> Do you have a plan for smoothing the end-grain? I found a local cabinet maker that was willing to run my boards through his wide belt sander. It saved me a ton of time and energy!


I actually downloaded the program last night, but decided that I would stick to illustrator. I know it pretty well.

As for smoothing it out, I think I'll try my random orbital sander to get a smooth surface.

Cheers. :thumbsup:


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

So I got back from the wood store in my area, and they don't have any of the wood. So I have to go to one of their other locations, which will. So I'm still trying to decide on the wood selection. 

Wood Alternatives.

Wenge ---> Walnut or Cocobolo?
Padauk---> Bloodwood or Purple Heart?
Maple ---> Zebrawood??


Any thoughts?


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## whatalesyou1 (Mar 18, 2011)

They didn't even have maple? Where are you located?


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

whatalesyou1 said:


> They didn't even have maple? Where are you located?


They actually have zibrawood in-stock, but maple they have to order more, to meet the specs that I want.
They carry maple in 1" thickness, but not in 2"

They have Purple Heart and Bloodwood as well as Walnut in the dimensions I am looking for. 

I think I'm sold on the bloodwood.

I live Near Vancouver, BC.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Purpleheart looks good next to maple, but as it is exposed to UV rays it will brwon out a little, getting closer to the walnut, so I would try not toput them next to each other. Bloodwood/paduak is a matter of which one's cheaper/more available. I haven't done bloodwood on my cutting boards so I don't know about the "bleed" factor. As for zebra wood, I personally think the grain is a little too open to use on a cutting board. Just my 2 cents.


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

sawdustfactory said:


> Purpleheart looks good next to maple, but as it is exposed to UV rays it will brwon out a little, getting closer to the walnut, so I would try not toput them next to each other. Bloodwood/paduak is a matter of which one's cheaper/more available. I haven't done bloodwood on my cutting boards so I don't know about the "bleed" factor. As for zebra wood, I personally think the grain is a little too open to use on a cutting board. Just my 2 cents.


I've done a bit of research for the last couple of hours and found that Zibrawood is way too open of a grain. I'll probably go with the maple.

As for Bloodwood, I've found many sources that say there is no bleeding when sanding in mixed wood projects.

So, I think I have my woods chosen. 
Walnut, Maple and Bloodwood.

I can't wait to start.
Probably, this weekend.

I'll post some pics when done.
Thanks for the help.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Capacity Workstation said:


> Thanks for that info.
> Do you think Bloodwood would stain the maple, as Padauk?


From my experience, the bloodwood will stain the maple even more than the padauk will. I'm not sure what your sources are but I can guarantee bloodwood can stain maple with a random orbital sander... at least from 60 to 600 grit. Either will be fine if you can use a cabinet scraper instead of sanding.

Edit: I'd also suggest, since you're going to be gluing up anyway, buy the maple in 4/4 and just glue it up to 8/4. Use the walnut and maple, they will be cheaper than the alternatives. Purpleheart is a little cheaper, around here, than padauk but not too much. The padauk will not stay that reddish color in your design, either, which may be a reason to select something else, if you're looking for color contrast.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Capacity Workstation said:


> I've done a bit of research for the last couple of hours and found that Zibrawood is way too open of a grain. I'll probably go with the maple.
> 
> As for Bloodwood, I've found many sources that say there is no bleeding when sanding in mixed wood projects.
> 
> ...


My experience with purpleheart is that it will turn greenish brown when machined or sanded and return to purple when exposed to the sun, padauk will stain the maple but with proper sanding it will go away. I have not had this problem with bloodwood, or redheart either. When you stain the maple what is happening is the you have very small tears in the grain or fine chip outs. Again it is all in the sanding. I also think it originates while turning from not using a sharp tool. I use all of these wood when laminate my pepper mills. The correct way to sand is start course and don't skip a grade as you work toward your finish.


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

*Update*

I started my cutting board and once I started, it was as I expected... my new addiction!
I have a few more things to do with it still.

- I have to thickness plain it, to get the surface flat.
- I have to route the edges and hand grooves
- and then sand and oil it with mineral oil.

Some questions I have for the experts...

How many coats of oil should I give it... I heard 2-4 coats??

When sanding, I've done a lot of research and I've gotten many different opinions of how high a grit I should go... from 60 grit - 1500 grit. 
Some say I only need to go to 220 grit. 
What do you guys think?

Thanks for any advice.

Ben.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I wouldn't put an end grain board through the planer. You're asking for trouble, aka tearout. As for sanding, for a cutting board I stop at 180 grit. End grain boards also soak up the oil. I apply a coat, let or soak in for 1/2 hour, wipe off the excess, let it sit overnight, then repeat until it seems like it's not taking anymore oil.

Good luck.


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

sawdustfactory said:


> I wouldn't put an end grain board through the planer. You're asking for trouble, aka tearout. As for sanding, for a cutting board I stop at 180 grit. End grain boards also soak up the oil. I apply a coat, let or soak in for 1/2 hour, wipe off the excess, let it sit overnight, then repeat until it seems like it's not taking anymore oil.
> 
> Good luck.


Hmmm... if not in the thickness planer, how do I get the board completely flat?


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

That's a great looking cutting board. I really want to make one soon. In fact, I think I will. I too am looking forward to the answer about flattening the cutting board. Once again, it looks great.


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## Dvoigt (Dec 6, 2007)

I know i'm late to the game here, but I made a maple and Padauk board and had very little issues with the dust getting into the maple.

I use a drum sander to flatten it, or as someone mentioned previous, find a shop that will run it through a wide sander for you. I have known people to run end grain through the planer taking VERY light cuts with sharp blades.... but that is something that I wouldn't try.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Mad skills with a belt sander, or find a shop like mentioned earlier. Or attach a sacrificial piece totheend of the board and use the planer.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Capacity Workstation said:


> Hmmm... if not in the thickness planer, how do I get the board completely flat?




Try a fly cutter in a router jig. Fast and almost perfectly flat.


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## byron9393 (Nov 19, 2010)

I am no expert by a long shot but I have made quite a few chopping blocks. Personally I think of a cutting board as being long grain and chopping blocks as being end grain. If you plan on actually using the thing then there is no reason to sand beyond a 150/180 grit on the working surface. I sand mine to 150. Also because it will soak up so much oil the first time it is usally best to let it sit in a bath of oil over night. This will allow the oil to penatrate deep w/in the wood. Then oil once about each month. The worst thing you can do to a chopping block is let it become dry of oil. This will cause it to start splitting were you did not get enuff glue or maybe even tightened the clamps to much and caused the glue to be squized out. Either way its a bummer.
Just my 2 cents.

Forgot to say. That is one nice board that will last you a lifetime if properly cared for. Enjoy.


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

Kenbo said:


> That's a great looking cutting board. I really want to make one soon. In fact, I think I will. I too am looking forward to the answer about flattening the cutting board. Once again, it looks great.


Thanks a lot Kenbo.
When you make your cutting board, be sure to post pictures.

PS: saw your scroll saw work. Absolutely wonderful!


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

Dvoigt said:


> I know i'm late to the game here, but I made a maple and Padauk board and had very little issues with the dust getting into the maple.
> 
> I use a drum sander to flatten it, or as someone mentioned previous, find a shop that will run it through a wide sander for you. I have known people to run end grain through the planer taking VERY light cuts with sharp blades.... but that is something that I wouldn't try.



Thanks for the input.

This board is Walnut, Maple and Padauk. and I've had more issues with the Padauk getting on my clothes then I have with it staining the maple.

I'll probably run it through the belt sander and see how it turns out.


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

byron9393 said:


> I am no expert by a long shot but I have made quite a few chopping blocks. Personally I think of a cutting board as being long grain and chopping blocks as being end grain. If you plan on actually using the thing then there is no reason to sand beyond a 150/180 grit on the working surface. I sand mine to 150. Also because it will soak up so much oil the first time it is usally best to let it sit in a bath of oil over night. This will allow the oil to penatrate deep w/in the wood. Then oil once about each month. The worst thing you can do to a chopping block is let it become dry of oil. This will cause it to start splitting were you did not get enuff glue or maybe even tightened the clamps to much and caused the glue to be squized out. Either way its a bummer.
> Just my 2 cents.
> 
> Forgot to say. That is one nice board that will last you a lifetime if properly cared for. Enjoy.


After I did the final gluing and sanded it, I did up to 220 and it felt like glass. I think I will take you up on 180 and not go past that!

Thanks for the input.


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

byron9393 said:


> I am no expert by a long shot but I have made quite a few chopping blocks. Personally I think of a cutting board as being long grain and chopping blocks as being end grain. If you plan on actually using the thing then there is no reason to sand beyond a 150/180 grit on the working surface. I sand mine to 150. Also because it will soak up so much oil the first time it is usally best to let it sit in a bath of oil over night. This will allow the oil to penatrate deep w/in the wood. Then oil once about each month. The worst thing you can do to a chopping block is let it become dry of oil. This will cause it to start splitting were you did not get enuff glue or maybe even tightened the clamps to much and caused the glue to be squized out. Either way its a bummer.
> Just my 2 cents.
> 
> Forgot to say. That is one nice board that will last you a lifetime if properly cared for. Enjoy.


Thanks Byron.
I just got commissioned to make another one.
It's crazy big. 34" x 19" x 2"

The customer has a kitchen island that has a big hole in it from where is old stove used to be. He wants a chopping block to cover it up.

How did I go from designing and building recording studio desks... to making cutting boards and chopping blocks? I love it!!


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## SargeVN (Jun 26, 2011)

Nice cutting board and the advice Byron offered is sound.. Keep up the good work...


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## Capacity Workstation (Jun 6, 2011)

SargeVN said:


> Nice cutting board and the advice Byron offered is sound.. Keep up the good work...


Thanks SargeVN.

I've found that most people who comment, have given sound advice. 
This is one of the best forums I've been apart of, as everyone is really nice and is willing to give advice and help others.
Thanks to all.


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