# What happened to my dust collector?



## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

I had my dust collector on yesterday while I was working on the lathe. I use a woodcraft remote controller to start and stop it. Well, the dust collector decided to just shut off on me. I went over to take a look at it, and the power light on the remote controller was still on and it didnt trip the reset on it. I touched the plug that comes from the dust collector and it was hot. I unplugged the controller from the wall and tried to unplug the dust collector from the controller. The plug wouldnt come out, so I had to pry it out with a screwdriver. The plug looks like it got so hot that it melted the rubber around the prongs. What caused this to happen, and how do I go about replacing the power wire?
Nick


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## qgranfor (Jul 2, 2010)

Is there sumthing that jammed up the impeller causing the motor to pull alot of current perhaps?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*check the amperage ratings*

Check the impeller for blockages and to see if it spins freely. Check the filter and empty it. Check all the pipes leading to the housing for blockages. If all is well then it's probably an electrical issue.
If prior to this, everything has been operating normally, then something failed.
Check the amperage rating on the controller and the motor to see if they are compatible.
Ideally the controller should be rated more than the tool/motor it's controlling. If all is well with that I would suggest a short within the controller. 
To replace the plug on the motor just get a 3 prong plastic plug rated for 15 amps ?.... to match the existing plug. As a test I would plug the DC into a good protected outlet and let it run under a watchful eye for about 30 minutes and the feel the plug/cord for warmth. If all is well with that, then I would consider contacting Woodcraft with your issue to see if there are other failures and what your choices are.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

More than likely the problem is how the plug was made. Typically in Asian made plugs, the wires aren't connected very well to the prongs prior to molding in rubber/plastic. This causes the plug to overheat due to the current draw. 

You are going to replace the plug anyway so replace the chord to the DC at the same time. I put 12 gauge wire on my DC (Same Jet as yours.) Although mine runs through a Long Ranger and uses 220 volts the principal is the same.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

I am curious, did you ever figure out what did this? It seems to me that since the breaker wasn't tripped, the problem may not have been an overamperage heating up the connection and melting it. Which would tell me that there was excessive resistance in the plug itself most likely due to an improper connection. Not sure if your DC is still under warranty, but even if not, I would probably report that to Delta, and quite possibly the CPSC. That is a definite safety issue.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I have to ask something...............did you use an extension cord with any of these items. Using an extension cord on certain tools can cause the cords to overheat and melt the plug. I have seen it on more than one occassion with the exact same results as what you are showing here.


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## TMA Woodworks (Apr 23, 2010)

Woodnthings is on the right track. A breaker may or may not trip. A locked rotor on your motor may trip a breaker but not always. Since your meltdown did not happen at the remote I would be leaning toward the dust collector. I would bet it a very dirty bag or blockage someplace. This would cause the motor to work harder draw more power and melt the plug. Pass & Seymore puts out a very good replacement plug. Ask for a Nema 515 plug and ask for a spec or construction grade and that should get you the correct type of plug. The gauge of your cord may have something to do with it but most likely it is a 14 gauge. If they did put on 16 gauge replace the cord also. SJ143 or SJ123 will make an good replacement. If the bag is clean and there are no blockages then unhook the DC and run it full out to see if the motor has any issues. Good luck. It's the pits when the equipment gets in the way of really important things like woodworking.

Bob


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

I haven't looked into the problem yet. I will cheek it out on Monday and keep everyone posted.
Thanks for the help so far,
Nick


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

Update!!!

I took the hoses off the dust collector and there was a blockage right before it goes into the fan blade. I unclogged it, and then opened up the box that the cord connects into. These are pictures of what I found. Looks like I need something more than a cord and plug. What is this part and where can I get it.
Thanks,
Nick


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## Duck69 (Jan 27, 2011)

The start/run capacitor overheated. Luckily they are inexpensive and can be bought at Radio Shack.


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## TMA Woodworks (Apr 23, 2010)

You might want to check the thermal overload on the motor too. It really should have kicked off. Those are easy to replace too. I had to replace the one on my drum sander. Found on the net for about $20. If you don't have an overload on the motor you might want to put one on. Cheap protection.

Bob


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

I tried to find that capacitor and couldn't find it anywhere. Delta customer support, delta authorized repair center, radio shack, local electric supply house, and grainger weren't able to locate one. I was able to order a new cord and plug, but that doesn't do me any good without that capacitor. Anyone have any suggestions? Its a 30uf +_5% 250v 50/60hz capacitor
Nick


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

I do heat air condition for a living . You can use a 30 uf x 440 volt it won't hurt anything . Yo just can't change the mircofared (30 uf ) 
Any heating supply house or contractor should have them n stock . It's a common part


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## TMA Woodworks (Apr 23, 2010)

Try www.capacitorking.com. We use them at work for our lighting capacitors. They are reasonable and quick at shipping

Bob


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

that is your run capacitor. like others said, you can go up in volts, that's ok, if it fits. check the start cap too for leaks. if you can't get it local try grainger.


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

When you say i can go up in volts, what does that actually mean. What is the voltage rating for


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

the voltage rating is for the capacitor itself. if the voltage rating is higher, that simply means that the device can operate in a circuit with that (higher) amount of volts. You can replace with a cap of higher volt rating, not lower. The farad rating is what gives the capacitor the circuit response characteristics it needs, keep that number the same, as much as possible.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

If I get it right, that's like a speedometer that shows 150 MPH at the high end, the car may go that fast, you just don't have to?


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

Great. Thanks for all the help. I will see what i can find at grainger. 
Nick


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## qgranfor (Jul 2, 2010)

nblumert said:


> I tried to find that capacitor and couldn't find it anywhere. Delta customer support, delta authorized repair center, radio shack, local electric supply house, and grainger weren't able to locate one. I was able to order a new cord and plug, but that doesn't do me any good without that capacitor. Anyone have any suggestions? Its a 30uf +_5% 250v 50/60hz capacitor
> Nick


DigiKey or Mouser should probably have it.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

If your motor is good , this is what you need .
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Motor-Run-Capacitor-2MEC9?Pid=search


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

I went to grainger yesterday and looked at that capacitor. Its huge and wouldnt fit in the metal case.


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## SteelBenderMan (Oct 29, 2011)

As 'Info' stated, an A/C supply shop will have this part. The 30uf value must remain the same but voltage can be higher, not lower. As long as you are having to replace this one, replace the other. I make no suggestion that it may or may not need replacing, rather it's of little expense and time while the machine is down for repair. No point in not having all new caps.


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