# Question: do I need to caulk coped joints and outside miters?



## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

Do we caulk coped joints? How about outside miters? Do we force a little caulk, glaze, or putty into the gap, or do we just roll the edge with a nail set? 

Here's my corners, I KNOW they don't look too hot, but I'm beginner and still in the learning phase. 


























Thanks


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

Hey Rick, for a beginner it looks like you're off to a fine start. From what I see on those gaps, a little caulk will do ya just fine. For the inside joints I'd use caulk. For the outside miters I'd try a sandable filler, smear it on a little proud of the surface so that you can maintain the intended shape, and then smooth it out with sandpaper. A big mistake a lot of people make with caulk is not wiping the area with a damp cloth. Nothing looks worse than a great paint job that is ruined by poorly filled nail holes and a bad caulk job.

Try and remember most inside outside corners are not a true 90...over or undercompensate on your miter saw when you make those cuts and you'll have nice tight joints.


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## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

GREAT!! Thanks for the help!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

joesdad said:


> Hey Rick, for a beginner it looks like you're off to a fine start. From what I see on those gaps, a little caulk will do ya just fine. For the inside joints I'd use caulk. For the outside miters I'd try a sandable filler, smear it on a little proud of the surface so that you can maintain the intended shape, and then smooth it out with sandpaper. A big mistake a lot of people make with caulk is not wiping the area with a damp cloth. Nothing looks worse than a great paint job that is ruined by poorly filled nail holes and a bad caulk job.
> 
> Try and remember most inside outside corners are not a true 90...over or undercompensate on your miter saw when you make those cuts and you'll have nice tight joints.



I agree. Your coping looks good. Make sure whatever filler or spackle you use that it doesn't shrink. Some holes and gaps may need filling more than once.


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## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

> Make sure whatever filler or spackle you use that it doesn't shrink


Does this normally happen when it dries or over an extended period of time (days or months)? 

Thanks Again


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## joesdad (Nov 1, 2007)

I like a product called MH Ready Patch. You can buy it at most home centers for around $6.00 a quart can. It's heavier than spackle, but not gritty like some wood fillers. I've had no problems with it shrinking, sands nice, and it can be used outdoors too.

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-55835/Detail







.


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## loneframer (Mar 28, 2009)

The goal is to not need caulk, but that is only a goal, not always achieved. I agree with the earlier post, to caulk the inside corner and use a filler on the outside.


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## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

Okay... I'll take a look for that MH Ready Patch and give it a try. Thanks for the help!


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## craftsman jay (Jun 26, 2010)

Rick,

jobs look fine. I always caulk my coped joints even if they're tight. And I prefer to cut 2 copes on a long run than cut a cope and outside corner. Just my preference. I try to avoid doing cope and 45 most of the time. 

You can cut the long pieces a hair long/tight and snap into place. But those short pieces have no forgiveness.


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## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

> those short pieces have no forgiveness


I agree!!

I picked up a few things today, but haven't found the MH Ready Patch yet. I have a tendency to overthink things, but I purchased five different Dap products today (33, 53, Drydex, Fast N Final, and Vinyl Spackling) and they all have issues (drying, shrinking, crumbling, sanding, ect....). I'm going to check out a couple more places for the MH Ready Patch tomorrow, but I'm hoping whatever I use I'll be able to apply it and have enough time to prime by this weekend. 

Thanks


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## loneframer (Mar 28, 2009)

craftsman jay said:


> Rick,
> 
> jobs look fine. I always caulk my coped joints even if they're tight. And I prefer to cut 2 copes on a long run than cut a cope and outside corner. Just my preference. I try to avoid doing cope and 45 most of the time.
> 
> You can cut the long pieces a hair long/tight and snap into place. But those short pieces have no forgiveness.


 This is a crown job I did awhile back. It's the 45 degree corners that kill you.:laughing:


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

RickDel said:


> Does this normally happen when it dries or over an extended period of time (days or months)?
> 
> Thanks Again


Well depending on the weather conditions in your area it could be both. Most times it may shrink a little right off the bat and just need another touch up with filler. Other times over time the wood moves and can cause gaps.



loneframer said:


> This is a crown job I did awhile back. It's the 45 degree corners that kill you.:laughing:


I learned to use an angle finder on 45's especially, divide the angle by 2 and set the saw. Works well on all angles.


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