# Downdraft idea



## Something2do (3 mo ago)

I was wondering about making a downdraft table with a 10 inch pvc pipe cut at an angle 0 to 5 inches . With the dust port at the end. Maybe 8 foot long for sanding hand rail. Think it would work?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Try to buy a section of 10" PVC, you may need to reconsider?
I think an 18" square of 1/4" pegboard over a 3" square frame of 1Xs. would be a better choice, and you can enlarge the holes to 3/8" if needed.
To make the transition to your 4" DC hose, you can come off the bottom or two of the sides with shop vac hoses. 
You didn't say what the overall size was?


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

Something2do said:


> I was wondering about making a downdraft table with a 10 inch pvc pipe cut at an angle 0 to 5 inches . With the dust port at the end. Maybe 8 foot long for sanding hand rail. Think it would work?


Im not sure I picture your meaning...
If it is what I'm picturing then probably not.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

I made one of those about five years ago, detailed here - Making a downdraft sanding box


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

difalkner said:


> I made one of those about five years ago, detailed here - Making a downdraft sanding box


I hadn't seen that build before and you did a great job!
I have great sympathy for you needing to work in such a small space.
Good thing you build guitars, not double basses!


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> Good thing you build guitars, not double basses!


That would seriously take up some room, right!!

Glad you like the sanding box - it was fun to build and works pretty good.


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## JamesTinKS (Nov 15, 2012)

I took a piece of 1/4" pegboard sized to cover the main table of my table saw, added some 1" squares about 1/4" thick to the underside about every 6". Added 1/2" strips on the front and back to hold it in place, 1/4" strips on the sides and short strips for the miter slots. I take out the throat plate and pop that baby onto my table saw. Works like a champ. Hangs on the wall out of the way when I don't need it.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

If you have a sander with effective dust extraction paired with a good dust extractor I don’t see the need for a downdraft table. Considering the space requirement, and the CFM‘s it requires, it seems like a significant investment for something that may get used intermittently at best. Are you going to break out the DD table for a 3 minute sanding session or every single time you sand something? in addition, it begs the question how big is big enough? I see 4” ports on most of them, which means you need more than a shop vac.

So I’ve never been able to see the usefulness other than maybe small parts, or in a production tyoe situation. If you’re sanding a larger surface how can it even work? Maybe I’m nit seeing the purpose, but if it can’t pull air from at least 6” above the surface isn’t that dust going to escape? Tells me you need some serious CFM’s, no?

All that said, I think every serious ww’er should invest in a HEPA certified dust extractor if at all possible, with or without a cyclone. Make dust extraction the major purchase factor when buying a sander. In addition, mesh type sandpaper is a better choice. But, unfortunately that could mean upwards of a $700 investment. The next best choice is a shop vac with a HEPA bag and filter.

Air quality is so often overlooked, or the last thing addressed when setting up a shop. Many people are working in climate controlled spaces adjoined to living space, and in the cold climates you can’t air out a shop. No doubt sanding is a dangerous thing, but the amount of dust a table or miter saw can spew out is quite amazing.

An air filtration unit (or several) that can turn over the air in a few minutes is really a must. Depending on the size of the shop, you could need more than one of the smaller 400 CFM units. I see lots of DIY units, but those box fan/AC filter contraptions are useless..


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

JamesTinKS said:


> I took a piece of 1/4" pegboard sized to cover the main table of my table saw, added some 1" squares about 1/4" thick to the underside about every 6". Added 1/2" strips on the front and back to hold it in place, 1/4" strips on the sides and short strips for the miter slots. I take out the throat plate and pop that baby onto my table saw. Works like a champ. Hangs on the wall out of the way when I don't need it.


you're saying you have the pegboard spaced off the table saw and using the DC hooked to the table saw for extraction?
*freaking brilliant! *i'm going to look into this


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## JamesTinKS (Nov 15, 2012)

_Ogre said:


> you're saying you have the pegboard spaced off the table saw and using the DC hooked to the table saw for extraction?
> *freaking brilliant! *i'm going to look into this


That's what I did. Nice and easy and takes up virtually no usable space because it hangs above my lumber rack in otherwise unusable space.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

JamesTinKS said:


> That's what I did. Nice and easy and takes up virtually no usable space because it hangs above my lumber rack in otherwise unusable space.


Did you put weatherstripping or something around the edges to seal it, or just make it tight enough so that air leakage isn't a problem?

I'd like to see a picture of it on your saw.


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## JamesTinKS (Nov 15, 2012)

Woodworking Wolf said:


> Did you put weatherstripping or something around the edges to seal it, or just make it tight enough so that air leakage isn't a problem?
> 
> I'd like to see a picture of it on your saw.



I did. Your asking reminded me. Here are pictures of the top and the bottom. It fits pretty snuggly to my saw.

LOL, just looked at the post. I should have edited out by fat belly.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

Freaking brilliant!


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

JamesTinKS said:


> That's what I did. Nice and easy and takes up virtually no usable space because it hangs above my lumber rack in otherwise unusable space.


I used JamesTinKS idea for a downdraft sanding station. Basic Craftsman table saw that I added DC to. Saw table is 27*40, I cut pegboard to that size and added 1⅛"x⅝ plywood spacers around the perimeter and for support. The top is locked in by small filler strip in the miter slots and short plywood sides. 
I used it 2 days and am pleased with the results. I did buy ¼" weather strip to go around, but haven't installed it. The top sucks down pretty well, I figure that the small leakage will only gather more sawdust
I was going to build the box type, but was concerned about weight and bulk. This top is light and stores easy peasy next to the drill press
Thanks JamesTinKS


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