# type of plane



## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

I just got this plane for $10 on eBay, its a Stanley but im unsure if the type...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Looks like a "Handyman" is that what the lever cap says?


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Yes it does, what type of applications is it useful for?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

jdevico said:


> Yes it does, what type of applications is it useful for?


The same use as a Stanley No 5 which may be the Stanley model equivalent.

The Handyman line is a lower priced line, so some features are missing, or parts were less expensive.

For example, the Y lever on a Stanley at the time was a single piece of cast iron. The Handyman was a two piece steel, eventually used in the late 60's Stanleys up to present.

The frog may not have an adjustment screw.

The tote (rear handle) is more like an "I" vs the Stanley being an "L".

The wood for the tote and knob is a less expensive species, may be a softwood vs hardwood on the Stanley.

Once the plane is tuned, it should be able to do the same tasks as a Stanley.


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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

My Stanley #5 which I bought about 1974 was made in Canada in 1966-67. It has the same tote as the one shown here. It works fine.


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Thank you again everyone


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Another quick question on this plane...what bevel angle should I sharpen this too...its currently rounded for some reason and I know it needs to visit the Bandsaw for some work.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

jdevico said:


> Another quick question on this plane...what bevel angle should I sharpen this too...its currently rounded for some reason and I know it needs to visit the Bandsaw for some work.


Can be personal preference.

Stanley commonly use a 30 deg bevel. This angle is what I use on my bench style planes i.e., not low angle.


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Bandsaw, no one corrected me.  obviously meant belt sander


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

jdevico said:


> Another quick question on this plane...what bevel angle should I sharpen this too...its currently rounded for some reason and I know it needs to visit the Bandsaw for some work.


I assume you mean the blade is rounded corner to corner? It was probably set up as a scrub plane... I finally got the chance to play with a properly set up scrub a few weeks ago, and it was a revelation. Talk about fast removal of stock!

You might want to consider buying a new iron for smoothing, and keeping the rounded one for scrub work... I just bought a whole new plane (which is now lost in the mail... don't ask) for that, but a separate blade would work just as well and be easier to store.


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Yeah the iron is rounded on the top end to end...so what exactly is a scrub plane, and what would be the proper way to sharpen?


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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

Oh, my plane also has the pale blue japanning. I usually sharpen my planes to 25º and hone a secondary bevel of about 28º. Seems to work for me.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

This site has some information that seems useful about scrub plane irons: http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/scrubsharp.html
It also has good images of what the blade should look like.

As to what they're used for. First, a disclaimer: I have lots of theory, and very little practice. People here who've actually used the things regularly may well disagree with me, and they're probably right. But, in general, a scrub plane is used to remove large amounts of stock very quickly. Given the right wood and a sharp iron, a scrub plane should be able to remove about 1/8" in a pass. That's tough to do with a squared off iron (the corners tend to get stuck), but with a sufficient radius on the iron, it'll work well. It doesn't leave a clean surface -- you need to clean up with another plane, like a jointer -- but it does a fantastic job of making thick stock thinner. My understanding is that it's common to work diagonally or straight across the grain with a scrub, then follow up by using a jointer (a number 7 or 8 plane, usually) with the grain. Once everything is flat, you can use a smoother (number 3, 4, or, with a different blade, a 5) to give it a finished surface.


If you're just getting started with hand tools, I recommend both "The Anarchist's Tool Chest", by Christopher Schwarz, and "The New Traditional Woodworker", by Jim Tolpin. My review of the latter is here. (I have no connection to the authors or publishers of either... I just like the writing and found them useful.)


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Thank you for that, while I'm not getting strictly into hand tools, probably more into the powertools honestly, I'm dabbling because while I'm a very new woodworker, I do like the idea of using handtools and I really see their usefulness, and like the hybrid lifestyle of both power and hand tools.

I'll have some reading and studying to do. Again thanks...


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Sounds good. I like my bandsaw, and for large construction projects I wouldn't want to be without my electric drill, impact driver, and chop saw, but I'm finding that, more and more, I like hand tools. So far I've mostly build shop furniture, and a couple of small boxes, but I'm finding that, for a lot of things, hand tools are faster and easier. Also quieter, which is nice when your neighbor's house is 20 feet away....

Enjoy your woodworking, and there's a lot of knowledge on this site; lots of people will chime in on most questions, though the hand tool forum is a little quieter.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

A scrub plane is a very specific plane. It doesn't matter what you do to a jack plane it will not be a scrub plane. If you camber, or round, the iron of a jack you get a Fore Plane. Used in a similar manor but different.

One day the forum will catch on :laughing:

Sorry, I had to interject.


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

firemedic said:


> One day the forum will catch on :laughing:


Since you live down there in Gator fishin country, im sure you will get this, if you want us to " catch on" just hang the bait a little lower and we will bite!


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

firemedic said:


> A scrub plane is a very specific plane. It doesn't matter what you do to a jack plane it will not be a scrub plane. If you camber, or round, the iron of a jack you get a Fore Plane. Used in a similar manor but different.
> 
> One day the forum will catch on :laughing:
> 
> Sorry, I had to interject.


Thanks for the clarification... I did put in my disclaimer, didn't I? :laughing:

Can you give us a clarification on what the difference is? My understanding, apparently wrong, was that a scrub and fore were essentially the same thing, much as a jointer and try plane are the same thing by different names... Looking around, the first few articles I found seem to use it that way, too ("I saw it on the internet, so I know it's true..."), so I'm still confused.


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## bigbo1234 (Feb 13, 2013)

I've recently asked Roy underhill about jointer and try planes, he told me that a jointer in for the edges of boards and a try plane in for the face. In regards to a scrub plane, in still confused. I'll be watching for sure


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

A jointer is a jointer.

A Fore Plane (as in Stan #6) with a cambered iron is a fore plane - with a flat iron it's a Trying plane.

A jack with a cambered iron is still a Fore Plane.

A scrub plane, in the truest sense, is a much narrower shorter plane than a jack. The radius of the camber is also much higher. Notice in the pictures below a true "scrub plane" as utilized by the Germanic craftsman. Notice how narrow the iron is! It's typically no more than around 1-1/2" wide.

The confusion is no surprise. There are a lot of factors at play here in making this convoluted. 

A scrub plane is used by Germanic craftsman in a manner similar to the French or English use of a Fore Plane. ie the different cultures had different tools for the same job. The reason I differentiate is because there truly is a difference in design.

What adds to the confusion is that along comes the iron plane revolution and the game changes a bit. Manufacturers are naming planes what they will and there is no true cross reference.

A wooden Fore plane is closer in size to a Stan 5-1/2 than a 6. Being Stanley produced a scrub plane they likely should have named the 6 a Try plane... but we've seen enough examples of corporate disconnection to understand why the guys designing / naming these plane likely never used one.

I'll add more to this later, have to run for now.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

BTW... That mess in the back ground isn't my shop... It's an attic at the museum :smile:


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Another quick question...what type blade should I buy for this plane, mainly size


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

jdevico said:


> Another quick question...what type blade should I buy for this plane, mainly size


Are you referring to the Handyman plane in your original post? The picture shows it already has a blade, so you can measure.

If this was a No. 5 it would use a 2in wide blade. The length is standard, so may not be used in the "size" on a web site for ordering like this one.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=42607&cat=1,41182,43698&ap=1

The blade in the picture does not seem too short. I would try sharpening and see how it performs before purchasing a blade.


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Well I actually lost it I have no clue what I did with it


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

jdevico said:


> Well I actually lost it I have no clue what I did with it


LOL. :laughing:

I am laughing with you, not at you.

I purchased a Hock blade for my first hand plane, a Record No. 5. I know I put the original somewhere, but so far it is managing to allude my attempts to find it. Hoping to find it for use in a future restoration.

Measure the mouth in the sole, which will confirm the blade width. For example, if 2 1/16in - 2 1/8in wide then using a 2in wide blade.


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Yeah I was playing with the plane, put it in a box(maybe  ) then cleaned up because we were redoing the floor in that particular room.


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## reclaimedvt (Dec 26, 2012)

Found it it was on one of my shelves ill have to take a picture of the rounded edge


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