# tenons



## [email protected] (Jan 10, 2009)

Well after much messing around, Ive finally cut a tenon with near perfect shoulders. I'm curious as to how many of you guys use this joint and how often,seems to take an awful lot of time,not to mention patience to cut it properly. I know pocket hole joinery would probably be just as strong,and a whole lot faster.Whats you're opinion on pocket hole joinery,or is there a better method. Appreciate answers from you guys in the know,as I'm not a master woodworker, only a wood butcher. I make nice sawdust tho.


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

I doubt a screw is anywhere near as strong. Maybe plenty strong enough for your application though.

It does take some work to get them right, but the more you do and quicker they go. Now that you know what to do the next set up should be much quicker too.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Larry,
Depends on what you are making and how strong it needs to be. I use pocket screws all the time for faceframes and cabinet boxes. But for furniture pieces, the tenons are usually the better way if you need a nice strong joint. I was just looking at the beaded tenons that some of the catalog companies are selling. It is a jig that you use to drill about four or five holes right in a row, each one overlapping the other a bit.. Then the tenon piece is a piece of wood to match the hole you just made. Looks like it would be easy to do, kind of a stronger version of a biscuit joint.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18092
Mike Hawkins


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

I use mortise and tenon joinery all the time because I make a lot of beds and a deep tenon is the strongest joint. To me, the time to make the joints is just part of the process of making a piece. I only use my pocket hole jig on face frames.


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## Vin55 (Dec 18, 2008)

I make a lot of tables and the mortise and tenon is the way to go. I cheated though, went out and bought a Delta hollow chisel mortiser.:laughing: Got tired of doing them by hand. The tenons are easy with a tenoning jig on the table saw. Just finished some patio tables out of cedar. Have to get some photos to post. Only problem I run into is when I have to cut a tenon in a long piece of wood because it stands up on end in the jig, my ceiling is too low. When that happens, I have to roll the table saw outside and cut them.


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

Forgot to mention, I have the mortising jig for my drill press.


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## wolfdog (Jan 31, 2009)

I've done a bit with tenons on some tables I've built. Yep more challenge, but well worth it. Now I doing a bed and plan to use blind wedged mortises at the posts. 

Is there a ratio for the depth of the mortise into the post? My posts are 2 1/2 square.


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## Domer (Mar 23, 2008)

*Tennons*

Loose tenons are easier to make than integral tenons. From what I have read, as long as the tenons are similar to the integral tenons, they are as strong.

Using a router to make the mortises is relatively easy and accurate. I make the tenons on my table saw. 

In addition, it is easier to make the parts because you don't have to calculate the length of the tenon. 

A more expensive way is with the Festool Domino but is probably the easiest way of all.

Domer


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Not sure if it was beginners luck for me or what, but I have now done mortise and tenon for two tables. For the tenons I used the dado blade method on my table saw and they have come out really nice and tight (with the exception of one....my fault) and the shoulders are nice and square to the table legs.

The key for me was making sure everything including stock, blade, miterguage, fence, etc were all true and square. Once that was set it was really kind of easy. It seemed like a very comfortable and safe method and the joints themselves now seem to be really nice and strong,

Tom


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

I picked up a refurb Delta mortiser and the tenoning jig from Woodworkers Supply (it's like the Delta version but painted green and yellow). With these the tenons turn out fine.


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## Terry McGovern (Feb 5, 2009)

I haven't had a table saw (no room) and so I've been using dowel joints for tables. Not as strong as tenons, but I was having a hard time getting a good tenon on the radial arm saw. I have a Delta mortiser, so that part was no problem, but getting a good tight tenon was a real bear.

I hope I've solved that problem now, with the purchase of a new table saw. It's en route right now, along with a tenoning jig from Rockler. Once that's set up and running, I'm hoping all my joinery will see improvement, and not just the tenons.


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