# Don't understand hand planes



## Timurray2000 (Aug 21, 2010)

When I set the plane down on the wood and push, it cuts a shallow groove from the point I start to the point i stop. I do this across the board and I end up with these grooves and ridges all over the board.

I'm sure I am totally missing here.

How do I use this tool to create a smooth surface?


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## skymonkey (Apr 12, 2010)

Welcome to the forums. I can't answer your question because I need the answer myself. Hopefully someone can enlighten us both.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

There is a learning curve involved (that I'm still trying to figure out) that involves good setup and proper choice of which plane to use for a given task, though there are many different ways to make many of them work for you. When your first chewing into a rough sawn board, you use a scrub plane or a plane with a large opening to grab a lot of wood....it's normal for these plane to leave a rough surface and lines. For just taking a little off the top, I typically use a bench plane (3 to 4-1/2), or a jack plane (5 and 5-1/2). You'll want a plane with the frog setting adjusted so the mouth opening is closed up quite a bit, and the blade just barely peeking through, making minimal contact. I file the corners off a little to help prevent them from digging in. Be sure the blade is razor sharp, and that the plane's sole is nice and flat. 

This article might be useful for you....good luck!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Timurray2000 said:


> When I set the plane down on the wood and push, it cuts a shallow groove from the point I start to the point i stop. I do this across the board and I end up with these grooves and ridges all over the board.
> 
> I'm sure I am totally missing here.
> 
> How do I use this tool to create a smooth surface?



You may have nicks in the cutting edge. The iron (blade) may be set with too much exposure. If it's sharp (that's another story), set the plane down with no iron exposure. Slowly adjust the iron until there is the slightest contact and see if it will shear thin ribbons of wood. Continually extend the iron until you get even cutting action. If it's sharp there shouldn't be much resistance.

It may plane better one way better than another, depending on the grain.


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

In order for the plane to cut properly the blade must be sharp. Stanley planes that you pick up off the shelf at Lowes are not sharp. With a sharp blade you will get thin ribbon of wood.
Tom


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## mart (Apr 1, 2007)

The blade of the plane needs to be slightly cambered or curved to prevent the plane tracks you are describing. Even a cambered blade will leave noticable tracks if it is set to take a deep cut. Fine woodworking has some good online video describing how to camber a blade and there are many other resources as well in the form of books and DVD's. There are videos by David Charlesworth, Christopher Schwartz and Rob Cosman that are all excellent material. I have watched the Charlesworth DVD's and they are informative and educational.

The sole of your plane must also be flat. You can check this by holding it upside down, retracting the blade and placing a steel rule on edge on the sole. If you can see any light under the rule you may want to lap the sole. With a well tuned plane with a sharp blade should be able to take shavings of around .001". 

Get some good videos and books and save your yourself a lot of time and headaches. I tried the self taught route and it cost me a lot of time and grief. I am still learning and have a long ways to go before I can even stand in the shadow of someone like Charlesworth but the videos are helping.

mart


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## Jackfre (Dec 23, 2009)

*Charlesworth videos*

I bought the Lie-Nielsen videos. They have helped tremendously. I at least know the technique. Now, all I suffer from is operator error:laughing:


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Taunton Press [Lee Valley Tools] puts out a good book on sharpening tools. This is a good start.

Gerry


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Timurray2000 said:


> When I set the plane down on the wood and push, it cuts a shallow groove from the point I start to the point i stop. I do this across the board and I end up with these grooves and ridges all over the board.
> 
> I'm sure I am totally missing here.
> 
> How do I use this tool to create a smooth surface?





skymonkey said:


> Welcome to the forums. I can't answer your question because I need the answer myself. Hopefully someone can enlighten us both.


I don't know what you have near you, but I took a 2-hour class for free at a WoodCraft location near me (it's in Springfield, MA), and it helped immensely. I'd never gotten it before that, and now it seems possible, even if I'm not very good at it.

Also... what kind of plane are you using? If it's a thicknessing plane, it's not going to get things smooth, it's just going to remove a lot of material.


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## Butch (Dec 18, 2006)

lotsa good advice already given, it would pay to adhere to it. one thing not mentioned, is the fact that it takes about an hour or 2s worth of work to get a plane to cut as good as it possibly can...the exception being a high dollar plane from Lie-Neilsen/Lee Valley/custom made planes..they'll cut right outta the box. but for what most of us have here, Stanley Bedrock/Baileys,Miller Falls,Sargent,etc, they need tuned up.and that'll take some effort..not alot, but enough that it'll help you understand the mechanics of it. I rec'd a video from Rob Cosman when I ordered his chipper/blade combo for my favorite plane... my Dad's #9 Miller Falls.. the video was remarkable in what he showed, and what the finished plane could do... impressive to say the least. I highly recommend that video. I'm sure other videos may be as well inforamed, but I can't speak for 'em, as I've not seen 'em. 
It's nice to hear that you're interested enough to help continue a tradition.:thumbsup:


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