# Pottery Barn Replica Abbot Dining Table



## audan2009 (Aug 6, 2014)

Hello,

Looking to build this: 

http://www.potterybarn.com/products/abott-concrete-top-round-fixed-dining-table/

How would I determine the length of those legs? I need to special order some 4x4's. 

Trying to imagine how they built that. I'm thinking there is a small 4x4 that those leg segments are connected to. 

I plan on using formica and concrete to form the top like this: http://littlegreennotebook.blogspot.com/2013/07/diy-concrete-countertops.html

I've done a solid concrete top on a huge table and it was crazy heavy. Trying to attempt faux concrete.


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## tke663 (May 26, 2014)

Im by no means a math wiz and im a complete newbie to wood working but looking at the picture it would appear the negative area between the top and bottom posts form an isosceles triangle. So you would need to know how high you want the posts from the ground. Then its good old pythogrean theorem. Without explaining the theorom (google) suppose your height is 34". 
34x34=1156. 
1156/2=578
Sq rt of 578=24.04
So your legs would be 24.04 inches on the sides that face outward. 

Like I said im not a math wiz but I think thats right. If any of the pros know a better way id love to learn as well.

Personally I would have designed this in sketchup (theres a free version) and let it do the math for me. I hate math.


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

I'm no pro either but I'd just model it in Sketchup. I think you are right that they used something to bolt the legs onto in the center. I'm betting its a square steel tube and they used lag bolts. You can see the cut lines on the side of the legs. There are 8 identical pieces. Not sure how you would attach those short legs any other way and have them be stable.


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## tke663 (May 26, 2014)

I didnt even look at the deminsions on the web site. If youre building it exact, with a 27" under clearance the legs are 19.09". But I would call it 19" and just go with the 26.87" underclearance and just keep that our little secret.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

That leg design has come up before, hopefully somebody can come up with a link to the past discussion where I believe it was explained.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Draw it out full scale on a sheet of plywood. The height of the table including the top should be 29"


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## audan2009 (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks guys, those are some good ideas!


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## Arckon (May 25, 2014)

I really wouldnt bother with faux-concrete top. By experience, there pretty much all very tricky AND fragile. I made about a dozen concrete table as well. The latest can be seen here and even tho there really are heavy its still is the best way to go. If you really want to cut weight your best option would be GFRC. Just my 2 cents


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## audan2009 (Aug 6, 2014)

Did you pour that one in place? I did my first one and tried in 2 pieces and it collapsed. Had to do it again but poured in place. 

I wonder how PB does theirs... Seems study enough. 

http://m.imgur.com/a/RM2Pa 

If I ever sell this house I don't think that's coming with me


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

One of the legs appears solid. The rest are attached. The solid piece for rigidity and the rest for balance. It might even be 2 solid pieces and the rest attached for balance.


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## Modfyd (Jun 25, 2014)

A lot like this one:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

audan2009 said:


> Did you pour that one in place? I did my first one and tried in 2 pieces and it collapsed. Had to do it again but poured in place.
> 
> I wonder how PB does theirs... Seems study enough.
> 
> ...


I'm sure the concrete used was the same kind they use for counter tops. It's not the same concrete that comes pre-mixed in bags, they use a different formula with more portland and smaller aggregate. I just don't know the formula to give you.


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## Arckon (May 25, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> I'm sure the concrete used was the same kind they use for counter tops. It's not the same concrete that comes pre-mixed in bags, they use a different formula with more portland and smaller aggregate. I just don't know the formula to give you.


you could use countertop mix but its truly not needed. I didnt used a countertop mix. I used standard quickrete and/or sakrete 6000 mix. If outdoor (use cheng outdoor pro formula addiditive) but if indoor it doesnt matter. 

I poured in a melamine foam and needed to then lift and reverse the tablttop in place. You use metal rebar to make it so its very solid. Even with a 12'' by 70'' hole thry the concrete it never bended when we lfted the top.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

I wonder what the chances are that they have a a big metal "jacks" kind of thing (best way i can describe the shape Im imagining).










a metal brace extending into the legs to provide the "real" support with the wood just as a facade.

Otherwise, aesthetics aside, thats a horrible engineering design as far as strength goes. And a really heave concrete top to boot. If it fails when someones sitting at it, they will be crippled.


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