# My first big build! (vanity)



## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

So i'm attempting to start my first build in the next few days. I'm going to tackle a beatup bathroom vanity in my new house. I'm thinking 3/4 inch birch or poplar plywood for the carcass is pretty easy, but i have a few questions on what to do for the rest. I don't really have access to a sawmill in my area, so i'll be getting my supplies from lowes or hd.

1) Should the doors be solid wood or plywood?
2) My wife wants it white, so is there a recommended paint out there that would leave me with the best finish? We have 2 small kids, so it has to be a pretty tough finish!
3) Is there any special veneers that I would have to use for painting?

I think thats it (for now). I'm sure i'll be updating this frequently.

Thanks for helping a rookie out!


----------



## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Lots of discussion about that here:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/wood-type-painted-cabinet-doors-47806/


----------



## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

hey ramond,
if you're going to go with solid doors instead of raised panel doors definitely use a wood instead of ply, Lowe's sells good poplar and some HD's carry maple I think, but not around here. Another option would be MDF if you're sure you're going to paint.  It comes in a 4 X 8 sheet and is easy to work with, and sands up nice. Two cautions about mdf: first, if you're going to do any sort of routing, be sure to sand whatever area exposes the interior of the board with fine (240 grit) sand. The original areas just 150. second: if you use a router bit on MDF, it is dulled and wont work as well next time you try to put it to wood.

on the paint question, I work for a custom cabinet shop that also has its own finishing shop, and we shoot all oil based "lacquer paints." It's basically a very thin, colored lacquer that dries a whole lot smoother than other types, thats assuming you're going to spray, if you brush good ol valspar is ok with some sanding.

on the finish, lacquer or polyurethane, lacquer dries faster but poly is tougher, maybe poly the top if its wood and not a sink top. Hope all this helps, shoot me a PM if I can help, love to share all the crap I've learned the HARD way!!


----------



## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

Great tips Will! Thanks very much! I'm looking to start this next weekend (my son turns 1 this weekend) so i'll be sure to update you as i go.


----------



## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

well congrats on the one year mark, our son Liam turns one month Monday, Im hoping once we get a year out my shop time will be more back to normal!! let me know if i can help in any way, and take "build pics" of your progress I suck at that but they're cool to look back on, PM me on here or email [email protected] anytime
Will Bess
Crowder Carpentry
Vale, NC
980-522-6408
http://www.facebook.com/CrowderCarpentryAndCabinets#


----------



## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

willbess08 said:


> well congrats on the one year mark, our son Liam turns one month Monday, Im hoping once we get a year out my shop time will be more back to normal!! let me know if i can help in any way, and take "build pics" of your progress I suck at that but they're cool to look back on, PM me on here or email [email protected] anytime
> Will Bess
> Crowder Carpentry
> Vale, NC
> ...


That's awesome, will! That was such an easy age, besides the no sleeping of course. Its crazy how they change everyday!

Anyway, my carpeting project for my house lasted way longer then i had hoped, so it gave me more time to out think myself.

Here is where i am now...I've decided to go with a birch carcass, and poplar frame & door/drawer fronts for this vanity. I do have a sprayer, so i was hoping to spray it since i want a nice smooth finish. I've never painted anything white before though, so i'm worried about the proper steps i need to take (and not turning it yellow). Would you be able to break it down for me? Pretend i'm your 1 month old when talking!


----------



## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

most painted professional cabinets (custom built) you see are actually painted with an oil based "lacquer," in other words, the base of the paint is a clear coat lacquer and pigment is added to it to make the desired color. Takes a bit longer for the paint store to mix, but what you get is a VERY thin paint that is easily sprayed and dries much smoother. At least thats how our finishing shop does it. Find a store near you, a real paint store, like Benjamin Moore, Glidden, etc. Tell them you want the lacquer paint, they'll have color chips, etc.

as for the actual spraying, we thin that stuff down even more, about 3/4 paint to 1/4 thinner, ALWAYS test your spray on a scrap piece the same type (birch, poplar, etc.) as your cabinet to make sure you like the spray setup before you hit the cabinet. 

Usually, one coat, let dry, sand VERY lightly with a 240 grit (fine) sponge or sand paper, then second coat, if it looks good to you, let it cure for a day then hit it with whatever clear coat you want, again clear lacquer is best, but some folks believe in poly

BEWARE THE POLY on white cabinets, if its a high gloss looking clean white, poly can yellow. "Country whites" and any white that has a little off tint to it wont yellow as badly. If you are worried about it, pick up some clear lacquer at the paint store, or at any woodworking store and use it for the clear coat.

Lastly, if this is going to be your last cabinet for awhile, like a week, break down your gun and soak all the parts in thinner overnight, that lacquer paint will gum up your stuff like nobody's business!

hope this helps, I have to say spraying/finishing is my least favorite part of cabinets, I've sprayed probably two out of at least 40 cabinets that I thought went right without a hitch, but as long as you keep sanding and spraying it will eventually work, let me know if I can help, and put some pictures up!


----------



## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Just an idea for the doors.
If you go over to the cabinets section in the box store, they sell knock down cabinets. 
You buy the doors separately.
Buy a door or two and build your vanity around them.

95% of a cabinet is the doors.
If you don't have access to tools to make a really nice door, you'll end up with a botched looking cabinet no matter how well you make the carcass.

......and raise the finish height to 34-36"
It will give you more door choices because you can now use a kitchen door and drawer face.


----------



## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

willbess08 said:


> most painted professional cabinets (custom built) you see are actually painted with an oil based "lacquer," in other words, the base of the paint is a clear coat lacquer and pigment is added to it to make the desired color. Takes a bit longer for the paint store to mix, but what you get is a VERY thin paint that is easily sprayed and dries much smoother. At least thats how our finishing shop does it. Find a store near you, a real paint store, like Benjamin Moore, Glidden, etc. Tell them you want the lacquer paint, they'll have color chips, etc.
> 
> as for the actual spraying, we thin that stuff down even more, about 3/4 paint to 1/4 thinner, ALWAYS test your spray on a scrap piece the same type (birch, poplar, etc.) as your cabinet to make sure you like the spray setup before you hit the cabinet.
> 
> ...


Exactly what i was looking for! As always, thanks!


----------



## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

tcleve4911 said:


> Just an idea for the doors.
> If you go over to the cabinets section in the box store, they sell knock down cabinets.
> You buy the doors separately.
> Buy a door or two and build your vanity around them.
> ...


I think i'm most excited to build the doors! I should have all i need to make them, but i'm always open to run out and buy a new tool if need be! :yes:

I was actually thinking about putting a pull out step stool in the bottom of it for the kids to use, but decided against it since this is my first build. i didn't want to bite off too much. I drew it up as 33.5" so I'll meet them in the middle. I'm 6'4" and i don't need to break my back every time i try to wash my hands! The one thats in there now is only 31". Its ridiculous!


----------



## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

love the excitement on the doors, thats my job in the big shop and i love it, but when i get home to my little shop it never goes quite as easily, but setup is 99% the battle, cut test pieces and more test pieces, and put pictures up here!! what door type have u decided on?


----------



## raymondoooo (Jan 23, 2013)

willbess08 said:


> love the excitement on the doors, thats my job in the big shop and i love it, but when i get home to my little shop it never goes quite as easily, but setup is 99% the battle, cut test pieces and more test pieces, and put pictures up here!! what door type have u decided on?


Once i get the shop in order i'll be able to start and get pictures up. I had it full of some free carpet that i got, so everything has been on hold. Now that i installed what i needed i have to get rid of the extra and i'll be ready to roll!

I'm probably going to go with poplar rails and either 1/4 birch or MDF. I really like the symmetrical and clean lines so i'm not sure if i will route an edge on it. Once i get rolling i'm sure i'll be all fired up and route pretty much whatever i can find! I drew it all up on Sketchup and it looks pretty cool (although i kinda taught myself how to use it, so i'm sure i missed some great features). We'll see what happens once i start cutting!


----------



## Doghouse (Mar 2, 2013)

Hey Raymond, sounds like you're gonna have a nice vanity. I agree with the solid wood for the doors. Poplar has always turned out good for me for projects that will be painted.

willbess08, those are some great tips! didn't notice any mention of putting a primer or sealer on the wood before spraying it. Does it come out OK if you just spray the lacquer directly on the bare wood? I'll have to try your tips soon. I've never been able to get a brush painted finish to look as good as sprayed. My wife and i are thinking replacing our interior doors and I've been wondering about the best way to finish them. 

Thanks for the tips.


----------



## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

the pros at the shop always prime before they spray, i've sprayed it straight on bare wood before and it passes, but a coat of primer is always cheap and never hurts! a really good way to take care of the prep work is to ask the guys at the paint store where you get the lacquer paint, every brand is a little different chemical wise and those guys are wiz kids when it comes to paint work. you might could get by with a little less than what the recommend, buts its a good place to start. I've learned that thinner is always better when spraying, I used some old latex on a TV riser I built for a friend and thinned it by HALF! and it looked great with two coats. I'll say again i'm no expert at finishing, its my weakest part, so if anyone can find flaws in my posts please let these guys know. just saying what works for me!


----------



## Doghouse (Mar 2, 2013)

Thanks Will,

I'll check with a paint store in our area. They can probably recommend the best primer for the paint they carry


----------

