# Router Table



## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

I'm getting ready to build a router table and I was wondering what to use for the top surface. Is formica good enough or is there something else that would work better?


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

That is fine, but you might want to look at Lowes or
where ever, they have broken boxes of laminate
flooring for little or nothing some times.

It is very hard, and very slick. I use it for table and
desk tops all the time. I use construction adhesive
spread with a 1/16 notch trowel to stick it down.

If you use a laminate bit to trim the edge, use some
sandpaper to smooth the edge because it leaves a
razor sharp corner. A nice 1/8 round over would work
as well.


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

I used white Formica on mine. I face-glued 2 sections of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood together and put Formica on both the top and bottom faces to stabilize it. Edged it with hard maple. 
No problems after 6 years.


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## Sawduster (Dec 30, 2008)

That's the perfect solution! I priced a half sheet of 3/4" melamine plywood at Woodcraft. $59.00! I've been holding off and hoping an idea like this would pop up. To sweeten the story, I have a half box of Pergo sitting in my shed. While we're on the subject of router tables, is there a standard distance to put the miter gage slot from the router spindle?


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## LGC KX5 TC (Dec 23, 2008)

I would say that you want it as close as you can for better support, but far enough away it doesn't interfere if you run something big like panel bits or something.


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

Sawduster, From the center of the collet to the center of the miter track on my router table it is 6 1/2". I don't know if there is a standard but that is the measurement on mine.


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

I'm glad you asked that question sawduster. Being new I didn't think to ask it and it brings up another question. How do I attach the fence, should I make some sort of guides and a locking mechanism (if so suggestions?) or just clamp it down? I have to tell y'all a little story. You ever have an idea, and trick all the people that need trickin' (the wife) and the plan works out for ya only to find out you just screwed up? Yeah. I was contemplating the router table yesterday. I was looking ay Lowe's website for laminate flooring (as suggested by BHOFM-thanks, great idea) and formica for the top surface. My wife went into the kitchen while I was looking at the formica and I looked up to see what she was doing and when my eyes hit the cabinets I had an epiphany. There is a section of cabinet that is about 5' long that would work perfect as a router table. Just add router!!! She has mentioned wanting new cabinets so I crafted a plan. If she gets new cabinets I could have that cabinet for a router table. So I told her I wanted to put the new cabinets in. (I didn't tell her why because she would say no right?) She said ok so I get my router table. Yes! I tricked her!! Then reality set in. What have I done?!?! Now I have to replace all my cabinets. I'm so smart, I got her good. That's gonna be one expensive router table.


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

jporter, you would have been better using the vanity in the bathroom instead of the cabinets in the kitchen, it wouldn't been so expensive. Now to your question. I cut slots on either side of the table from the bottom. I'm not sure how big they are its been a few years since I buit it. I think the little one is 3/8. The slots are step cut, I mad the first cut with 3/8 straight bit all the way though the top, then using I think its 5/8 straight bit you make the second cut centered in the first cut about 1/4 of the thickness of the top. The slot will allow you to used t-track bolts to hold your fence down. then all you have to do is drill the hole in the fence for the bolts. I can take some pics if you would like some clarification on all this rambling. I hope i didn't confuse you.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

jporter5333 said:


> She said ok so I get my router table. Yes! I tricked her!! Then reality set in. What have I done?!?! Now I have to replace all my cabinets. I'm so smart, I got her good. That's gonna be one expensive router table.


OOPS!

PS: Check out Rockler for router table accessories, such as tee tracks, guides, and clamping for tee tracks. They have some real good stuff. :thumbsup:

Gerry


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

Thanks AZ. I understand, no pics necessary. It sounds funny but it's exactly the way a toilet is anchored.


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> OOPS!
> 
> 
> That pretty much says it all Gerry. Thanks for the tip.


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

Just an FYI, I forgot to add that the slots are about 10" long. They go from just in front of center of the collet and go towards the back. They are inset from the edge of the table about 4" on either side.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Building a decent router table is also on my "to do" list. The cabinet I am going to use is about 18 inches by 72 inches long. Does anyone have a good overhead picture showing the layout for a good router table set up? I already have the tracks and clamps from Rockler. 

Gerry


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

*router table*

Hey j,
I think you should reconsider using melamine. And dont go to woodcraft. Home depot has 49"x97" double sided for $34.00 and you wont find them any flatter anywhere else. That might be too much waste for you, but I use melamine for a lot of things including jigs, fences and extension tables. As for the router table part, I dont have enough room as it is so I used melamine for my saw outfeed table and then used the outfield table for my router table. Melamine scraps for the fence and I had a cheap, accurate, easy to use, easy to build router table for somewhere around $50 and a day or so of labor. Fence adjustment slots are in the fence instead of the table and the hand screws thread into T nuts in the table. Good luck with yours.


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

Thanks 10penny and everyone who responded. The melamine sounds like the easiest idea and the will not be an issue. I can think of a few uses for the leftovers. I appreciate the pics too. That helps alot.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Thanks for the pictures 10penny. Those are excellent. Your dust chute looks like it would work very well.

Gerry


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

Thanks, doesnt work as well as I would like. Some dust still gets pulled down past the router and ends up in a pile on the floor. Still better than having it all over the shop. Do store bought tables have the same problem?


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

I get some dust and chips in the bottom of mine. The table that I have I bulit from the NYW plan. I have a dust port in the top on my fence and there is one in the cabinet. I don't have the one in the cabinet hooked up yet. If your table is open on the bottom you may want to build a cabinet onto it to close off the router. The only thing with that is you will also have to have some sort of door on there to allow air to move to help cool the router and aid in dust removal. You will also have to put a dust port and hook it in with the one on the top. Here are a few pics of mine


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## sawduststeve (Jan 11, 2009)

I have a delta 10" table saw with a 54" side table I made the table out of 3/4" MDF and mounted my router into that that way I can use the adjustable mitere gauge of the saw for the router. I took paste wax and waxed the MDF and everything slides smooth as silk.


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## Jordy3738 (Jan 12, 2009)

Formica is the perfect solution. One of the things that we have done for many years is wax the surface of the router table with any paste that contains carnauba. 

Be careful though because it will be extra smooth and slippery if you do this. 

The color of the laminate is important too. If you don't use the correct color you will have difficulty seeing the edge of your fence. 

When you get to be in your mid forties like me, anything that makes something easier to see is a plus.


We always is "Standard" thickness plastic laminate rather than the VT grade.



Jordy


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

Well I was digging around in the shed and found a piece of 1-1/4 plywood I had forgotten bout. It is 18"x34". Is that a good size for a router table or will I wish I had a bigger one?


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## blackcruzer (Oct 28, 2008)

Where can I get some of that melamine? I'm not finding it on Home Depot website.


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

blackcruzer,

I couldn't find the melamine on the Home Depot website either but they do have it. I saw it last time I was in there. I was going to build my table out of it until I found this 18"x34" piece of 1-1/4 plywood. I will probably make my table out of that now since I have everything else I need and the table will be free now except for a miter gauge. Unless someone thinks that 18"x34" is not big enough.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

blackcruzer....click on "pro" at top of HD web page, then click on contractor services on the left. Then building supplies, lumber and finally melamine. $33.57.

jp....34" is probably long enough but I think the 18" width is too small. Dont forget you have to install a table insert, a miter slot and get a fence on it too.


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## blackcruzer (Oct 28, 2008)

12penny said:


> blackcruzer....click on "pro" at top of HD web page, then click on contractor services on the left. Then building supplies, lumber and finally melamine. $33.57.
> 
> jp....34" is probably long enough but I think the 18" width is too small. Dont forget you have to install a table insert, a miter slot and get a fence on it too.


Thanks for the lead, I'll check it out.


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

Thanks 12penny,

I had seen some router tables that were 18" and thought that seemed awful small my self. I think I will stick to the melamine idea. I had just found that piece of plywood and though maybe I would try to use it. Any ideas on what it would be good for? I hate to throw it away. Or worse yet just sit there taking up space in the shed like all the rest of the junk because I hate to throw it away :laughing:.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

jp..... yur askin the wrong guy. I save everything. Might make a good sled or something. But as sure as the sky's blue, as soon as you throw it out you'll find a use for it. Hey... how bout a "keep out" sign for the shop door? :hammer:


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

Good idea 12penny. But I've decided to break it with my forehead. :wallbash:


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

I built Norm's Improved router station with a few extra improvements of my own. Last year when Rockler had a sale I picked up the Mast-r-lift and pc7518 motor and rebuilt the top. I used T track for the fence mounting system where Norm cut slots into the top for bolts. I also put some casters on mine to move it around the shop (also known as garage). The top is 2 pieces of MDF, 3/4 and 1/2 laminated together, edged with oak and topped with formica.


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## blackcruzer (Oct 28, 2008)

I've seen that PC7518 Router mentioned a few times, is that a good one to start out with? I noticed it a 3 1/4 HP.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

It's a good one to finish up with. Many lift mechanisms are designed for it. It's pricey but you won't buy another one for decades.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

I made a router table from a 3 x 6 foot desk, reinforced the underside with a 2inch x 48inch angle iron, added a Master Fence then inset the router insert from my old Bosch table. It needs the height boosted a bit but I love the size of it.


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## TheLt (Feb 14, 2009)

Unless Rockler has done something to correct the problem of the edge banding falling off (see picture 1), I don't recommend any of their tables (band saw, drill press, etc). After the edge banding fell off the cut-outs for the miter track don't line up (see picture 2). And then two ends don't meet in the back. (see picture 3). I have had no response from them on correcting this problem. At one point, after a two week vacation, I came home to the edge banding laying on the floor.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Did you wipe the edge with any solvents? Looks like the plastic shrank big time. They may have used the wrong material to make them.


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## top (Mar 24, 2008)

it seem and look to me that it was poorly made send it back now if you can, if not time to get the oak out and trim it yourself hope it work out for you good luck

* "THE SHOP OF TOP"*


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## TheLt (Feb 14, 2009)

*Rockler Tables*

I had the same idea, get out the oak, but how do I make the oak go around the radius of the corners? The other thing I thought of was using the iron on edge banding if I can find it that thick (1").


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

You should be able to cut a thin strip and soak it until it's flexible enough to bend around the radius of the corners. Maybe CA glue will do the job if the particleboard will hold it. I'd cut oversize and trim down flush of course.


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## terrysumner (Oct 5, 2008)

I too built my router table from Norm Abrams plans...it's a great design. I made a couple of changes though. I made the top with a double thickness of the 3/4" Melamine so it's 1 1/2" thick...nice and heavy. And I edged it all around with some hardwood. The second change I made was to hinge the top. I used a piano hinge on the back so I can lift up the top. Made a big difference in convenience.

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki


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## TheLt (Feb 14, 2009)

terrysumner said:


> I too built my router table from Norm Abrams plans...it's a great design. I made a couple of changes though. I made the top with a double thickness of the 3/4" Melamine so it's 1 1/2" thick...nice and heavy. And I edged it all around with some hardwood. The second change I made was to hinge the top. I used a piano hinge on the back so I can lift up the top. Made a big difference in convenience.


Looks great. I think I'll hinge mine like that. Good job on the RT.


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## jporter5333 (Dec 6, 2008)

Nice table, Terry.


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