# how do i make a straight bevel cut with a jigsaw?



## jfall (Sep 10, 2009)

i end up with a freaking rhombus everytime,whats the trick?


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## jfall (Sep 10, 2009)

also,ive used a fence guide,they still come out massivly out of whack.
like 1/8 inch over 12 inches.
the saw is high quality,the wood is good,i dont know what else to do,i dont have 600 bucks to buy a sliding compound mitre,but this things pissing me right off.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Jfall,
You are asking a bit much out of a jigsaw. They are made primarily to cut curves, not straight lines. A lot of it has to do with what kind of blade guides are on the saw. Some are better than others, but you have to remember, you are cutting with a skinny narrow blade. They want to wander by nature. You would be better off using a circular saw with a good blade and clamping on a straight edge for a guide.
Mike Hawkins


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## jfall (Sep 10, 2009)

mike,you should see the mess i make with a skilsaw,lol.
once i'm into the cut a few inches,its nice and straight,i just cant figure out why it cuts inside for the first bit.
i'm sure it has something to do with the curved front of the base of the saw,i wish it was just flat,can't figure out why theyre all made like that.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

jfall said:


> also,ive used a fence guide,they still come out massivly out of whack.
> like 1/8 inch over 12 inches.
> the saw is high quality,the wood is good,i dont know what else to do,i dont have 600 bucks to buy a sliding compound mitre,but this things pissing me right off.


You do not need $600 to purchase a sliding, compound miter saw. The low line Craftsman saw is a very nice saw at a regular price of $249. It routinely goes on sale and if you are a Craftsman club member it can sometimes go below $200. It only tilts one way so that means you have to move the wood to a new position instead of tilting the saw. I have made many, many cuts with this saw over the past 2 years and have absolutely no problems.

I hauled it with me to a condo I was totally refurbishing and then used it at me house which I was also extensively refurbishing. these cuts included crown molding, a complicated wainscoating in the dinning room door casing and other. It has also been used in a few furniture building jobs.

George


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## TonyM (Nov 12, 2013)

*rough cut*

The method I use is to rough it out with the jigsaw and then use a "bump-sander" or equivalent to smooth it out. If you place a really good light directly overhead while sanding and make sure to scribe or pencil in an edge-line beforehand it gives good results. 

One thing I like about woodworking is the many ways to tackle each problem. Good luck.

TonyM


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i agree with mike, you are asking a bit too much of a jig saw to produce that cut, accurately.


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## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

I'm with Mike and Tim, you're expecting too much from your jigsaw. Maybe a high-end jigsaw with the right blade and a high-end guide system designed for the jigsaw would get you the results you're looking for but that setup would cost a lot more than $600.

If this is for a corner joint, you may consider hand cutting finger or dovetail joints. It will take more time but it would be a lot stronger than a mitered joint.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

Replying to a 4 year old thread ?


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## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

Maylar said:


> Replying to a 4 year old thread ?


:blush:

He's probably got a cabinetmaker's quality workshop by now. :laughing:


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

Maylar said:


> Replying to a 4 year old thread ?


Thats funny!! i guess we were bored. i have to admit that i don't look at dates.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

TimPa said:


> Thats funny!! i guess we were bored. i have to admit that i don't look at dates.


I am with you. I also do not look at dates. If it comes up on my "new posts" list it is fair game.


g


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