# Help staining pine doors with poplar casings



## TimHixson (Nov 1, 2011)

I am remodeling a 100+ year old house. This is one of those big ol boys with 10' ceilings and the doors all have transoms on top of them. I have bought standard 6 panel pine doors and built my own door frames out of poplar. The original woodwork in the house was a medium dark red(ish) type color. It seems that the poplar stained with minwax "red oak" is pretty close. 

My problem is getting the pine doors to look close in color to the poplar casings and trim. My initial thoughts are to use a conditioner on the poplar with a standard water/oil stain, and then use a glaze or gel type of stain on the pine doors to get the color close. I am ok with losing some of the grain in the doors due to useing a topping type stain.

I have already tried several stain colors on sample boards. It seems that the pine is not taking in the stain as much as the poplar and is lighter in color. I figured I should ask for advice before I blow a bunch of $ on random products.

Please advise.

Thanks - Tim


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I would start with scraps to experiment with. Have Poplar and Pine scraps to use facilitates making as many samples as it takes. When I've done stuff like that, it just takes a lot of experimenting. I've had the matching problem with the same species, but from different sources/trees. So, it's one of those situations that you solve by experimenting and getting lucky. There's no one liner that will solve your problem.

There are a few factors that determine how well or how dark a wood will take stain. Experimenting on the prep stage with sanding grits is a good start. The rougher the finish, usually the darker the stain will get. You might start with both species at 150x and use a pigmented oil base stain (the same on both). You may have to go to 180x (smoother).

Looking at the results, determine what would be the easiest method to do to one piece over another. I might add here that it's likely you won't get a perfect match, but it can be very close. One may need a little conditioner. You can get out of whack with conditioner, as too much or too concentrated will prevent stain from penetrating. This would be more experimentation.

I suggested pigmented oil base stains, as they have a dry time that doesn't put you in a rush. You might try one of the dyes, as there are many colors available, and you could luck out sooner...maybe not. 

Gel stains go on heavy and get wiped down to the desired color. They may be another choice.

Another part of the experimentation is that whatever your final finish will be, i.e., topcoat, that it will further change the look. So, if you get some samples that are close, take them out to the final finish to see what they will look like. Another tip is to mark the sample (either front or back) so you know what you have and what you did. Keep track of mixing ratios, to include quantities of stains or stains that were mixed together, any thinning, and degrees of sanding grits you used.

For measuring, I use cooking spoons and small plastic cups for mixing. Those little single serving apple sauce, desserts, pudding, etc. make excellent mixing containers. I have LOML trained to save them.










 







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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Cooking spoons here as well.Chinese "take-out" qt plastic containers are to be had...."free w/purchase",haha.I also use these small glass(easy to clean),graduated containers.Get them at the W-mart for a buck.They're intended for mixing drinks.....and in this instance,really like working in "Litres" vs oz's.BW


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