# Armoire conversion



## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

I picked up an armoire today off CL for free to convert into a gun cabinet. Overall dimensions worked well but the large compartment above is too short for my long guns. The armoire features two drawers on the bottom.

My options are: 
1. Glue the top drawer shut and expand the floor of the storage compartment fully
2. Expand the left half of the floor, where I intend to store the long guns, then have half a drawer. 

Then whichever way I do it, how do I do this? haha

I'm an amateur home DIYer. I figured I'd jigsaw through the flooring, install a new floor there, almost like a box that I'd attach to the original floor

It's solid wood, no particle board. It is fairly light, maybe poplar or pine?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Either way it seems like you'd have to convert the drawer into decoration, so I'd go all the way and expand the floor fully.sure, there are some ways to get what you want and not sacrifice functionality but that's all over my head. My way of going at it? Remove the drawer, jigsaw out the bottom of the cabinet, replace the drawer and glue the drawer in place. You keep the decorative aspect of the drawer from, don't have to build a box and it'll take 20 minutes tops


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you could post a picture we might be able to give you more options.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Sounds like there could be the possibility of a secret compartment in the other half of the drawer compartment that you access from inside the cabinet, photos would help.


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

I was lazy last night and didn't wanna go downstairs for photos lol. Here they are:

























The drawer rails, look of the drawer on top the armoire, and the inside compartment. 
Basically, my longest gun is a shotgun with a bird barrel, so it's about 48" long. The compartment maxed out is like 40" or 39"
Utilizing the one drawer will take care of the problem for sure. 

So, glue the drawer shut then jigsaw the ENTIRE floor or just two square dropouts? I'm concerned taking out the entire floor would compromise structural integrity


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

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You would have a problem to take out the entire floor cleanly. Removing it from the sides would likely be difficult without causing some repair. You could just do a cutout as large as you need it. If you have some woodworking skills, you could modify the opening to put in a floor on one side. Then cut the drawer and drawer front down to a single drawer. Make two drawer fronts out of the one (if you can). When you reassemble, half would be a deep area with a floor, and the other half would be a functioning drawer. 

If the drawer front is the front of the drawer and not just a false drawer front, you may have to reconstruct the new drawer size and add a front, so you can use the existing one once it's resized.






















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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

Here's a quick sketch of the half-conversion. That way I can lock the left half of the compartment while leaving the right open for hunting clothes, glasses, earplugs, ammo, etc


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> You would have a problem to take out the entire floor cleanly. Removing it from the sides would likely be difficult without causing some repair. You could just do a cutout as large as you need it. If you have some woodworking skills, you could modify the opening to put in a floor on one side. Then cut the drawer and drawer front down to a single drawer. Make two drawer fronts out of the one (if you can). When you reassemble, half would be a deep area with a floor, and the other half would be a functioning drawer.
> 
> If the drawer front is the front of the drawer and not just a false drawer front, you may have to reconstruct the new drawer size and add a front, so you can use the existing one once it's resized.
> 
> ...


Hmm that's an interesting idea. That's beyond my woodworking skills, so I might just do the false front the entire length. That way I still have a full drawer on the bottom


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

I like the idea of having only half of the top drawer being used for the full length. How many guns are you talking that will need to long? On the other half of the top drawer you could cut out a portion and install a piano hinge and have place to store ammo, glasses, etc. All the while it wouldn't be accessible from the outside. I like the idea of having almost a secret compartment that is only visible from the inside


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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

I worked on it the other day and made this extended box for the floor to handle the butts of the guns. Instead of going one drawer depth, I went two since it was cutting it close with my 48" shotgun.

so now the left side will be false drawers and the right side could have two half width drawers. I saved all the hardware and stuff, but how can I neatly disassemble the drawer and put it together again? The wood is joined via dado joints with staples. I don't foresee a neat disassembly.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You might try a heat gun and a block of wood and a hammer to pop the drawer apart. Get the joint hot, and the glue should soften. Once the parts are separated, cut & machine them to fit the opening.


















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## mendozer (Jun 10, 2014)

how do i remove the staples neatly? I don't see a glue line, and the fact that there are staples makes me think there may not even be glue


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## ClaytonB (Jun 18, 2014)

My suggestion would be with a pair of needle nose channel locks or other quality plyers. They have worked well for me in the past.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mendozer said:


> how do i remove the staples neatly? I don't see a glue line, and the fact that there are staples makes me think there may not even be glue


There probably is glue. If not, they would just pop apart. I would first try disassembling them after heating, with a hammer and a block with the fastener intact. They usually just come out with the first piece they are shot into. Once out, if either a staple or brad nail, remove the fasteners from the gun, and dry fire it once or twice. then feed the legs of the staple or the single nail carefully into the nose of the gun, as far as it will go. Then fire once, and the fastener should be driven out. It will come out (if it does at all) far enough to pull it the rest of the way with a pliers.

If you have to remove a staple while its seated, try working a thin bladed slotted screwdriver under the top of the staple. Then use a protective slice of something against the drawer side so the screwdriver doesn't dent the wood. Gently work the staple out far enough to get a grip with a pliers. Wear safety glasses, or better yet a full face protector. Remember, don't point the gun at yourself and fire at any time.


















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