# rework of built in kitchen cabinets



## joea (Sep 14, 2018)

I have never attempted this before, so need some guidance.


My own kitchen has built in cabinets done by previous owner or his contractor. Built of some type of 3/4 inch veneered plywood, 5 ply + veneer. I would like to determine the species, if possible (or if it matters). 



The deal is I want to apply some veneer to the end of a modified wall hung cabinet that has some exposed end cuts/framing. I was going to apply some trim pieces to cover the seams, as an "artistic expression", but had this brainstorm that veneer could be used instead, making it look like I actually knew what I was doing and not a total hack job. It only look me two days after applying edge veneer to the shelf pieces and inside edges of the face frame for it to dawn on me. No, sadly, more coffee is probably not the solution to that part.


Since I am going to stain it to match (always a challenge anyway) does it really matter that much? As long as it is close in grain and natural tone?


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## joea (Sep 14, 2018)

And, I guess, what would be a good source for wide veneer? I see Rockler has some 24x32 as does HD a bit thinner but 3x as much for not much more. But the HD product seems to have a lot of "gotchas" in the install instructions.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you are going to use veneer I would recommend using a phenolic veneer. It is a real wood veneer that instead of a paper backing it is formica backing. It's more stable and more easily worked with contact cement. If for some reason the wood on the cabinet would shrink a paper backed veneer would bubble up because the cement isn't strong enough to hold it. The phenolic veneer is rigid enough in itself to resist the wood movement problems. The kitchen section of the box stores will order laminate in rolls for you and will be able to supply the phenolic veneer as well. 

If you have very many cabinets to do it would make it easier to purchase an underscribe router. It's a router especially made to seam laminate on cabinet faces. You cut the laminate a little long and apply it to the cabinet overlapping the joint. Then use the router to trim the laminate to fit perfectly.

The veneer would come in at least 4x8 sheets. I can't remember but I think it comes in 4x10 as well.


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## joea (Sep 14, 2018)

Steve Neul said:


> If you are going to use veneer I would recommend using a phenolic veneer. . . .



The two I am looking, Rockler and HD claim to use "real wood" backing. Or at least are "2-ply" of real wood.

[QUOTE
If you have very many cabinets to do it would make it easier to purchase an underscribe router. It's a router especially made to seam laminate on cabinet faces. You cut the laminate a little long and apply it to the cabinet overlapping the joint. Then use the router to trim the laminate to fit perfectly.

The veneer would come in at least 4x8 sheets. I can't remember but I think it comes in 4x10 as well[/QUOTE.


I only have the one right now. If I had not already cobbled up the face frame I would just get some thin luan or whatever sanded stuff is available and use that. However, in the end, it might be cheaper and more durable to do that and simply make a new frame.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

joea said:


> The two I am looking, Rockler and HD claim to use "real wood" backing. Or at least are "2-ply" of real wood.
> 
> [QUOTE
> If you have very many cabinets to do it would make it easier to purchase an underscribe router. It's a router especially made to seam laminate on cabinet faces. You cut the laminate a little long and apply it to the cabinet overlapping the joint. Then use the router to trim the laminate to fit perfectly.
> ...


The problem you will have is gluing real wood veneer to the cabinet. You would have to strip the finish off and sand it. Then rig up some means of clamping the veneer. It's difficult enough to do veneer work when it's just a flat panel that is loose where you can get sufficient pressure. We had someone this week talk about when they veneered a part they jacked up their car and slid the part under a tire to achieve pressure. Any little bubble will stay a bubble. You will have to get all of the air out from under the veneer and you only have one shot at it. You also need to use hide glue or a resin glue to stick the veneer. Wood glue will dry around the parameter and stay wet in the middle for a very long time. Contact cement on wood veneer will come back and haunt you. It works alright if you stick it to particleboard or mdf but solid wood or plywood moves and the contact cement won't hold.


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