# Cauls



## Paul21 (Dec 9, 2018)

So tonight I tried my hand at making some cauls. I used red Oak and pieces of Birch I had laying around will soon see how they work when I glue up some cherry boards. I plan on making a few more so I am not limited to just a few glue ups at a time. Any comments good or bad are welcome.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

Curious. How do you keep the glue squeeze out from sticking to the cauls?


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

I use wood pieces for my glue ups as well, I have the inside face covered with packing tape.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If the wood is jointed straight and square you shouldn't need cauls.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

At the risk of starting a technique war, I don't use cauls for edge gluing. I use biscuits for alignment. Cauls are more traditional, predating biscuits by several centuries, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with using them. I've been using biscuits for the last 25 years and have never had a join come apart. I like a biscuit join as it leaves the glue line completely exposed for cleanup when clamping up. Just my preference. Here's a glue up I'm doing right now for a coffee table I'm building. This panel will be the 48"x21" back of the table with six boards. The top is a 52"x32" glue up of five biscuit joined boards.


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## WeebyWoodWorker (Jun 11, 2017)

Jim Frye said:


> Curious. How do you keep the glue squeeze out from sticking to the cauls?



I normally use wax paper for that sort of thing, others use tape or plastic wrap. 



-T


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I like the simplicity of them ...*

This photo wasn't shown, only linked, but it explains it much better:









I've used separate "loose" boards which are difficult to manage, so these are far easier to use. I've also used biscuits with some success. Minimal use of "cauls" here, just the edges of the boards or planks, but I had to deal with some serous offsets by hand planing:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/door-build-2-xs-1-4-ply-55717/


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I use an eight pound sledge hammer with a block of wood and hammer the glue up flat.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> If the wood is jointed straight and square you shouldn't need cauls.


I find that with the bar clamps that I use there's a tendency for the clamps to not put pressure on the middle of the boards and they want to buckle. And since I don't use splines or biscuits, a multi board glue up can shift / slide from the glue. Cauls keep everything flat.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Maylar said:


> I find that with the bar clamps that I use there's a tendency for the clamps to not put pressure on the middle of the boards and they want to buckle. And since I don't use splines or biscuits, a multi board glue up can shift / slide from the glue. Cauls keep everything flat.


How are you using the clamps? On a glue up 3' or shorter I put two clamps under the glue up one on each end and then put one clamp on top in the middle. I normally torque the middle one a little more so the pressure on each side isn't drastically different.


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## Paul21 (Dec 9, 2018)

I am using Piedmont Sheets 1/8 thick from Woodcraft (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/uhmw-sheet-1-8-thick?sku=124225) So far they are working great.
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## Paul21 (Dec 9, 2018)

I still have not mastered using my jointer so I will use anything to assist me.


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## Paul21 (Dec 9, 2018)

I have not had good luck yet with biscuits, but have had good luck with dowels.


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