# I'm going to takle my kitchen remodel but need help



## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

I have never done a project this big before but I have enough tools and after watching some videos on how to build cabinets I should be able to do it since I have all the time I need. 

I'm going to use my kreg jig to do the joinery on the carcases, face frames.

What can you guys recommend me that will aid in helping me do this that a first timer will need to know?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

TrevortdogR said:


> I have never done a project this big before but I have enough tools and after watching some videos on how to build cabinets I should be able to do it since I have all the time I need.
> 
> I'm going to use my kreg jig to do the joinery on the carcases, face frames.
> 
> What can you guys recommend me that will aid in helping me do this that a first timer will need to know?


I followed the basic work flow shown in the videos Kris Reynolds has on You Tube. I watched a lot of other videos, but his are easy to watch and understand, and he doesn't ramble.

Dado for the cabinet bottom. Rabbit for the top and back. I used 1/2 inch for the backs of all of the cabinets and for the drawer bottoms on the bigger drawers (pots and pans - cast iron stuff).

All prefinished birch for the carcases. No finish needed. Just finish the face frames to your liking. 

Attach the face frames to the carcases with pocket screws, and glue if you like. Makes for a very strong bond. Believe me, I tried to take one apart. Couldn't do it without destroying the whole thing. That glue is good stuff. Glue and screws through the sides into the bottom and top stretchers.

I did make all of my face frames first. I wanted to make sure everything would fit.

Good luck.
Mike


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Thanks MT Stringer, I will check out Kris Reynolds!


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I woiuld suggest detailed drawings of each cabinet with part sizes. Give each cabinet a number or name so you can tell which cabinets are done and which one your doing at the time to keep things straight.

I like to get all my parts cut out and give each cabinet a number. When I cut a part I write the number of the cabinet on the edge of the part and stack it up. When cutting up a sheet of plywood you may be cutting parts for several different cabinets out of that one sheet so you make the most of the wood with little to no waste. Once I get all the parts cut I grab all the pieces to say cabinet 5 and put them on the assembly table and assemble the cabinet. After that one is done move on to the next number in line.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

What programs do you guys use for drawings, cut list, and best way to maximize sheets of plywood with least amount of waste?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I've only done a couple*

When I did mine I started with a bare room, took the measurements to within 1/8" when possible, and made a scale drawing. You could also use "butcher paper" taped together to form 36" wide strips. Lay them out on the floor and mark in your cabinet dimensions. That's one way.

Another way is to make cardboard rectangles that represent your base cabinet dimensions and move them about the room to find which arrangement works best.The spaces between the cabinets are usually filled with matching face frame strips/spacers. 

I should say at this point I used commercially available or stock cabinet sizes which were actually quite numerous in the brand I had chosen. If you are making up your own cabinets then you have more flexibility, but I would still try to stay within the stock dimensions when practical. Too wide a box means the shelves will sag, too narrow would make it somewhat limited in use. I used a maximum of 36" for my 3 drawer base cabinets, and even then the bottoms sagged enough to warrant an additional layer of 1/2" plywood for heavy cans.

Upper cabinets will vary in height and width based on their function, over the frig, over the stove, over the sink...etc..

A story stick using the dimensions marked out on it from one direction will serve to show how the layout will work. A single foot kick base under all the base cabinets will work better than separate foot kicks on each cabinet.

Others will have more suggestions.... :yes:


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

TrevortdogR said:


> What programs do you guys use for drawings, cut list, and best way to maximize sheets of plywood with least amount of waste?


Cutlist Plus fx.

I started with the free version but eventually upgraded to the gold edition. I didn't know how to use Sketchup until recently so I would make my own drawings, and enter the pieces into the cutlist. The fancier versions let you assign names like 24BR (24 inch base - right side of stove). Like Dave said, each one needs a name of some sort.

Create your own raw materials list and their prices. I used it to guestimate the cost for several projects including labor, materials, hardware, etc.

Print out the layouts and you should be ready to go.

My drawings are crude but they worked for me. I built the cabinets for my brother in law. They had no idea what to do, so I guess I was designer and builder all-in-one.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I use ECabinets to design and give me cutlist. THey have a sheet optimization built in but it's for a CNC machine and doesn't work well for cutting on a table saw or with a panel saw or however you want to break down your sheets.

What I do is go through the cutlist and figure out how many rips I need of the biggest pieces and cut those then move to the next smaller pieces and cut those and so forth. You can always cut a smaller piece out of a drop off of a bigger piece and get very little waste. I have certain sizes that I use for cabinet pieces that work well for minimal waste.

If your interested in ECabinets pm me and I can tell you where to get it for free and then I can help you design the cabinets or even send you files from cabinets I've done and you can open them up and modify them to what you need.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

When we were finalizing the cabinet layout at Bro-n-laws rent house, I used strips ripped from thin plywood to create a story stick type template, sorta like Woodnthings did with the butcher paper. A hot glue gun held the strips together so we could take accurate measurements.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I ran my floor under all the bases*

Even though it costs a bit more, I ran my floor tiles in the entire room, before the cabinet instal began. Some folks tile up to the cabinets after the install, but I don't like having to trim the tiles to fit. Like this:


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Thanks guys for all tips and suggestions!

My kitchen has to be gutted and it a house built in 1929 and I will have to put sub flooring down where current cabinets are. It has tile up to existing cabinets and I want to redo the flooring to not sure if I will do tile or wood.

The wife doesn't care if the cabinets are stained wood or painted. 

Would pine be a good inexpensive choice if I painted face frames & doors or should I stick with a hardwood?

The wall where the stove will go is 100 3/4" up to trim of an opening, is it best to have cabinets on both sides, is it a negative to not have cabinetry on both sides of stove?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I used poplar for the face frames for cabinets built for two different kitchens, including the pics I posted above. 3/4 inch Birch plywood for the carcases.

Mom loves her white ones. Lots of room for pots and pans. No more digging under the cabinets for her skillet. :thumbsup:


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Thanks MT Stringer for photos and suggestions!


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I would put cabinets on both sides of the stove. It's pretty standard to do so unless it's just not an option.

I use maple for painted cabinets. To me the poplar is still kinda fuzzy even after sanding. The maple is a good tight grained wood that paints well and I can get either for the same price. You might be able to save money by going with poplar instead of maple so I would check around.

I agree with the prefinished birch plywood. It's so much simpler not having to finish the inside of the cabinets. I even bought prefinished iron on edge banding for my shelves and prefinished drawer side material for the drawers. Cut the pieces, nail them together and your done. Saves a ton of time which equals money. I think the savings in time outweighs the extra cost of material.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Is home depot the best place to get prefinished birch plywood be purchased?


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I'm pretty sure Home Depot doesn't carry it. You will need to get it from a real lumber yard. I get mine from a buddy who has a cabinet shop. 

You'll probably have to check around to see who can get it and prices. I paid around $48.00 a sheet for 3/4 when I bought it last week. That was a 6 dollar a sheet increase from when I bought some a month ago.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> I'm pretty sure Home Depot doesn't carry it. You will need to get it from a real lumber yard. I get mine from a buddy who has a cabinet shop.
> 
> You'll probably have to check around to see who can get it and prices. I paid around $48.00 a sheet for 3/4 when I bought it last week. That was a 6 dollar a sheet increase from when I bought some a month ago.


Wow what an increase!

I did a web search and I see my local menards has 3/4" x 4' x 8' UV Prefinished Birch Plywood for $45 with 26 in stock.
I will check them out and see how they look.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Don't forget you'll need 1/4 inch prefinished material for cabinet backs


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Since my kitchen is a small L-Shape does it matter if a base corner cabinet is not the standard 36" X 36" but 24" X 24" and still have a depth of 24"?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

TrevortdogR said:


> Since my kitchen is a small L-Shape does it matter if a base corner cabinet is not the standard 36" X 36" but 24" X 24" and still have a depth of 24"?


It's your kitchen. Build your cabinets to fit it. Factory produced cabinets usually require filler strips to fill in the gaps when standard size cabinets leave an opening. My cabinets were like that - three to 5 inch fillers. Lots of wasted space.

Edit: Just make sure you leave enough room for the doors to open.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

TrevortdogR said:


> Since my kitchen is a small L-Shape does it matter if a base corner cabinet is not the standard 36" X 36" but 24" X 24" and still have a depth of 24"?


 If that's what you want to do then that is up to you. Basically what your wanting is what is called a blind cabinet. I've attached a picture to show how it needs to be done. You have to make sure to have 3 inch stiles on the inside corner to allow for the drawer fronts to pass and miss what ever knob or handle you use.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

What would you guys suggest for my base cabinets sizes, should I stick with a 24 x 24 corner or go bigger?


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

The advantage to going bigger is easier access to the space. Going 36x36 allows you to put a door on it to access instead of having to reach in through a door like in the picture I posted above.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> The advantage to going bigger is easier access to the space. Going 36x36 allows you to put a door on it to access instead of having to reach in through a door like in the picture I posted above.


Good point but it leaves with very little room for a cabinet with drawer between sink and it. 

Does it make sense to put stove right next to right side of corner cabinet with a larger one on right side of stove which would go to opening trim, or put a small cabinet next to corner one, then stove and a small one next to right side of stove?


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

How long is the stove wall from corner to trim?

Edit: Never mind. I went back and seen where you said it was 100 3/4" long. If you stay 3/4" away from the trim that leaves 100". Take that number and subtract 36" for a corner then subtract 30" for a stove and it leaves you with 34". You can either put that on the opposite side of the stove from the corner, which is what I would do, or split it into a couple cabinets on either side of the stove. They would be small and not very useful that's why I would make it one cabinet.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> How long is the stove wall from corner to trim?
> 
> Edit: Never mind. I went back and seen where you said it was 100 3/4" long. If you stay 3/4" away from the trim that leaves 100". Take that number and subtract 36" for a corner then subtract 30" for a stove and it leaves you with 34". You can either put that on the opposite side of the stove from the corner, which is what I would do, or split it into a couple cabinets on either side of the stove. They would be small and not very useful that's why I would make it one cabinet.


I think you are right with putting stove next to corner cab. with a larger one on the right side of it as it will give more room.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Just a note: The sink cabinet should be at least 36 inches wide. That will allow room for a 33 inch wide sink to fit.

Here is a drawing to scale for you to mull over.

How wide is the door opening by the fridge?
What is the total length of the fridge wall?

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

More tinkering. :yes:
Mike

Edit: OOPS. I left off the width of the small cabinet. 11 1/4".


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)




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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> Just a note: The sink cabinet should be at least 36 inches wide. That will allow room for a 33 inch wide sink to fit.
> 
> Here is a drawing to scale for you to mull over.
> 
> ...


Wall to door trim is 32 1/4"
Door trim to trim width is 36 3/4"
Fridge wall is 35 11/16"
Fridge is 30"


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> More tinkering. :yes:
> Mike
> 
> Edit: OOPS. I left off the width of the small cabinet. 11 1/4".





Big Dave said:


>


Thanks guys for those sketch ups, I was trying to do that in sketchup 2015 but I have never used it and like most things there is a learning curve.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Would you guys do an upper sketchup for me?

Window width trim to trim is 35 3/4" 
Left Side wall to window trim is 35 7/8"
Ride Side Wall to window trim is 35"
Ceiling 98 3/4"

My plan with uppers is to go 1 cabinet top to bottom height.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Good luck. Having counter top space on either side of the stove is really handy. There is a code but I forgot what it is - 15 inches minimum (I think) for sitting pots and pans.

BTW, we put all drawers in the base cabinets. We aren't spring chickens any longer, and SWMBO demanded it. They are working out great.

Note: The diagonal corner drawers have 28 inch drawer slides instead of 22.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

TrevortdogR said:


> Would you guys do an upper sketchup for me?
> 
> Window width trim to trim is 35 3/4"
> Left Side wall to window trim is 35 7/8"
> ...


Are you wanting to go all the way to the ceiling?


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> Are you wanting to go all the way to the ceiling?


Yes that is what I have and I am going to stay with except my current ones come down to low and there is not enough space between couter tops & bottom of cabinet so I know when I build new ones they will not have the same height.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Crown molding?
Microwave over stove?

I would be willing to bet the ceiling is unlevel. Leave maybe an inch and cover it with crown molding.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> Good luck. Having counter top space on either side of the stove is really handy. There is a code but I forgot what it is - 15 inches minimum (I think) for sitting pots and pans.
> 
> BTW, we put all drawers in the base cabinets. We aren't spring chickens any longer, and SWMBO demanded it. They are working out great.
> 
> Note: The diagonal corner drawers have 28 inch drawer slides instead of 22.



That is a really good idea, but I wonder if its pretty challenging to build and I wonder if they ever pose a problem unlike the traditional way.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> Crown molding?
> Microwave over stove?
> 
> I would be willing to bet the ceiling is unlevel. Leave maybe an inch and cover it with crown molding.


ok, I bet it is to and it is plaster.

I have a microwave but it's not a built in one, I might get a built in one, but I do want it over the stove.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> Are you wanting to go all the way to the ceiling?


Current cabinets go to ceiling and they are 52" with only 12 1/2" between bottom of cabinet & countertop.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)




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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


>


What about the joining wall where the stove would go and wouldn't a corner cabinet be better on the right side with joining wall?

Good work and thanks for the sketches.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

TrevortdogR said:


> What about the joining wall where the stove would go and wouldn't a corner cabinet be better on the right side with joining wall?
> 
> Good work and thanks for the sketches.


 Not in your case. An upper corner is 24x24 which doesn't hardly leave any room for another cabinet between the corner cabinet and window or corner cabinet and cabinet above microwave.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I can draw it that way if you want to see it.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> Not in your case. An upper corner is 24x24 which doesn't hardly leave any room for another cabinet between the corner cabinet and window or corner cabinet and cabinet above microwave.


Could a corner one be extended to the cabinet above microwave?


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

TrevortdogR said:


> Could a corner one be extended to the cabinet above microwave?


 
If you do that then the front is so close you would hit your head on it trying to get to the counter underneath.

If we did a diagonal corner the cabinet next to the window would be 10 1/4 and the cabinet between the corner and microwave would be 11 1/4


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

I see because the depth of the corner one would be 24".

I like to the 2 large cabinets flanking the window best. Will the size of door be an issue with cabinet above microwave?


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

TrevortdogR said:


> I see because the depth of the corner one would be 24".
> 
> I like to the 2 large cabinets flanking the window best. Will the size of door be an issue with cabinet above microwave?


No. You will do two doors that meet in the middle.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I drew this quick so some of the details aren't done yet. You can put a stile in the middle if you want but usually they just meet with an 1/8" gap.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> No. You will do two doors that meet in the middle.





Big Dave said:


> I drew this quick so some of the details aren't done yet. You can put a stile in the middle if you want but usually they just meet with an 1/8" gap.



I see what you are saying as I had it in my head it was one large door.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Big Dave said:


> I drew this quick so some of the details aren't done yet. You can put a stile in the middle if you want but usually they just meet with an 1/8" gap.


My wife wanted a false stile, so I cut a piece of plywood and fastened it to the left door. When closed it looks like a stile is there.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

MT Stringer said:


> My wife wanted a false stile, so I cut a piece of plywood and fastened it to the left door. When closed it looks like a stile is there.


I've done that before. Just have to remember which door to open first, lol.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Yes sir. We are both right handed so I put 'em on the left door.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Here is the fridge wall.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Another idea I have about a upper corner cabinet would be to make it have a 12" depth but extend the right side of it to the cabinet above the stove.

Like these:


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Yeah, you could do that. makes the stuff in the corner easier to get to. Door will be a pain to make.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Or, no door(s) at all.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> Yeah, you could do that. makes the stuff in the corner easier to get to. Door will be a pain to make.


Why would the door be a pain to make?



MT Stringer said:


> Or, no door(s) at all.


I think that will be the best looking and I like MT Stringer's idea of no door just shelves.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

TrevortdogR said:


> Why would the door be a pain to make?


They just are. Trying to get he hinges in the right place so everything shuts flat and tight. It's not impossible but I wouldn't want to do it. Of course I'm looking at it from a point of view of trying to make it for a customer and make money. Quicker equals more money in my pocket.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> They just are. Trying to get he hinges in the right place so everything shuts flat and tight. It's not impossible but I wouldn't want to do it. Of course I'm looking at it from a point of view of trying to make it for a customer and make money. Quicker equals more money in my pocket.



I will trust your experience, and I will go for the open shelf look.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> My wife wanted a false stile, so I cut a piece of plywood and fastened it to the left door. When closed it looks like a stile is there.



I really like the look of the microwave in a spot not over the stove, very inconspicuous.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

We moved it there from above the stove so SWMBO could put her mosaic tiles on the wall. I made a frame for the tiles. I think we built a pizza joint!


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Hey Big Dave I wondering if you were going to do that cabinet sketchup of the wall over the stove for me?

I found 2 ways to make base cabinets and just curious as what method you guys use? 2 seems easiest to me.

1) build the base/toe kick separate and add the sides to it
or
2) cut out the bottom of sides for a horizontal board for toe kick to be joined between them.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

In post #40 I attached a sketch of the sink wall and stove wall. Unless your wanting something different that I missed. 

I do your #2 option for toe kick. I actually just make the notch, 4"x4" then when all the cabinets are in cut a toe kick board and nail it in so you can run it full length.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> In post #40 I attached a sketch of the sink wall and stove wall. Unless your wanting something different that I missed.
> 
> I do your #2 option for toe kick. I actually just make the notch, 4"x4" then when all the cabinets are in cut a toe kick board and nail it in so you can run it full length.



Thanks Big Dave for responding, I was wanting one of the upper stove wall. 

My plan for base cabs is based on the video starting at 1:01, I think that is what you are talking about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3zh2cMmsNM


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

The drawing below has the whole stove wall. Lowers and uppers.










And yes, the video shows the way I do it too.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> The drawing below has the whole stove wall. Lowers and uppers.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thank you so much for doing that sketch for me, I really appreciate the help. I'm sure I will be back with more questions. 

Is it best do use hard wood for shelves & drawers?


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

TrevortdogR said:


> Is it best do use hard wood for shelves & drawers?


 You can use whatever you want. I use the same prefinished plywood for shelves as I do for the carcass. You can purchase a prefinished edge banding that irons on and makes it look like a solid wood shelf. Some people use the plywood and attach a solid wood piece on the front to hide the ply layers.

I have found and purchase prefinished birch plywood drawer side material. It is already edge banded and has the groove cut for the bottom.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> You can use whatever you want. I use the same prefinished plywood for shelves as I do for the carcass. You can purchase a prefinished edge banding that irons on and makes it look like a solid wood shelf. Some people use the plywood and attach a solid wood piece on the front to hide the ply layers.
> 
> I have found and purchase prefinished birch plywood drawer side material. It is already edge banded and has the groove cut for the bottom.


What's that site for the prefinished plywood drawer site?


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

http://www.baersupply.com/baer/serv...od=2119187&tabName=Catalog&ParentKey=G4964806


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> http://www.baersupply.com/baer/serv...od=2119187&tabName=Catalog&ParentKey=G4964806


Thank you!


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> The drawing below has the whole stove wall. Lowers and uppers.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just curious as to why you have 19 1/2" between counter & bottom of cabinets, as I have read 18" is the standard?

Do you have face frames 2" width calculated in or do you have it a different width, or are you leaving that up to me?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

@Trevor - Finished base cabinets are usually 36 inches tall. You do plan on putting a countertop on the cabinets, right?


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> @Trevor - Finished base cabinets are usually 36 inches tall. You do plan on putting a countertop on the cabinets, right?



That made me laugh but yes counterop will be on top of cabinets.

I see my mistake now, I was thinking that the measurements was counting for the countertop and it is not, the measurement it is to the top of base cabinets.
Thanks MT Stringer for helping me see that.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I watched that video. Maybe I overlooked something, but he said to cut the cabinet sides 22 1/4 inches wide. I made mine 23 1/4" wide. Add the 3/4 inch thickness for the face frame and you have 24 inches.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> I watched that video. Maybe I overlooked something, but he said to cut the cabinet sides 22 1/4 inches wide. I made mine 23 1/4" wide. Add the 3/4 inch thickness for the face frame and you have 24 inches.


My plan is to do the same as you, 23 1/4" carcass plus 3/4" for face frame for base cabinets.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Should face frame have any overlay when butted to wall or even with cabinet carcass since side wall will not be seen?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

TrevortdogR said:


> Should face frame have any overlay when butted to wall or even with cabinet carcass since side wall will not be seen?


Definitely a good idea, because you know, walls aren't always plumb.

For the stuff I have built in three different kitchens, I built the face frames first so I knew they would fit by subtracting just a tad or so from the width to give me some wiggle room.  It is pretty easy to add a thin filler strip if you come up short. Or scribe the cabinet to the wall to fit perfectly if you have a little overhang.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Called a local lumber yard for rough lumber for face frames, just wondered what you guys think of pricing.

Maple $3.35 FBM
Oak $2.65 FBM


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Looks like you guys figured it out but I'll put in my .02 worth. I make my sides 23" for an unfinished end. Reason is that when you add 3/4 face frame and 1/4 back you come out to 24". If it's a finished end then I make it 23 1/4 and rabbit it to accept the back. 

If your not putting backs on the cabinets, which some people don't, then ignore what I just said.

Lumber prices don't sound too bad. I'd still price shop between lumber yards to get the best deal.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> Looks like you guys figured it out but I'll put in my .02 worth. I make my sides 23" for an unfinished end. Reason is that when you add 3/4 face frame and 1/4 back you come out to 24". If it's a finished end then I make it 23 1/4 and rabbit it to accept the back.
> 
> If your not putting backs on the cabinets, which some people don't, then ignore what I just said.
> 
> Lumber prices don't sound too bad. I'd still price shop between lumber yards to get the best deal.


Good tip on measuring since I will be adding a back. 

I will definitely call other lumber yards.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Now I need help with how much material to get. The wife wants painted cabinets & I'm going to do shaker style doors so I can use unfinished 1/4" for the insert. 

3/4" pre-finished plywood for carcasses & shelves
1/4" unfinished plywood for backs of cabinets & doors 
Oak Hardwood for stiles, rails


anything else you guys can think of feel free to say.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

When I get home I'll generate a material list.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Big Dave said:


> When I get home I'll generate a material list.


Sounds good!

I plan on getting material this weekend or next and start in on it.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

TrevortdogR said:


> Now I need help with how much material to get. The wife wants painted cabinets & I'm going to do shaker style doors so I can use unfinished 1/4" for the insert.
> 
> 3/4" pre-finished plywood for carcasses & shelves
> 1/4" unfinished plywood for backs of cabinets & doors
> ...


If those cabinets are going to be painted, I suggest that you use poplar or maple.

Oak will leave a grain that will show through making the finished product look like you simply painted over the original installation.

I have been happy with red oak when stained and finished, but I use poplar for painted face frames, doors and drawer fronts.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> If those cabinets are going to be painted, I suggest that you use poplar or maple.
> 
> Oak will leave a grain that will show through making the finished product look like you simply painted over the original installation.
> 
> I have been happy with red oak when stained and finished, but I use poplar for painted face frames, doors and drawer fronts.


Thanks for cluing me in on that, I will go with maple since poplar soft for a hardwood and have read it dents pretty easy.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Painting over OAK will allow the grain to show through, but lots of folks/designers LIKE that look. I know I do, it can add an interesting affect, IMO. I have done it often for high end customers, and ALL have liked such.

Each to his/her own. Do a test piece, see what you think.

Dale in Indy


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