# Varnish/Shellac Poplar Log Walls



## marngar (Nov 26, 2014)

Greetings,

I am preparing to embark on a major project in my home.

I built a log home 28 years ago with kiln dried yellow poplar logs.

I planed and stained the logs with a water based dark, cherry color stain.

Now, the wife and I would like to get a shine on them.

Could some of you experts tell me what product would be the easiest (We're not spring chickens) to apply that would give the highest gloss on these somewhat porous logs?

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Over that length of time oils from cooking have settled on the wood as well as handling it and possibly furniture polish has gotten on the wood. The first step should be a thorough cleaning. I would use a product called Krud Kutter Gloss Off to clean the wood with frequently changing rags. After which if it removes some of the stain you might have to freshen the color with some more stain. Then when dry I would seal it with a dewaxed shellac such as zinsser sealcoat. Then with a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper you could topcoat it with shellac or lacquer if you have the means of spraying or use a gloss polyurethane if brushing. Apply the poly with as soft a paint brush as you can find using as few strokes as possible. The more you brush it the more the brush marks will show.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

As with any finish, it's all about the preparation. If the logs aren't reasonably smooth, you can apply a glossy finish, but it won't look glossy if it's interrupted by nibs, nooks and crannies. 

That said, I'd imagine that big logs are somewhat subject to expansion and contraction, not unlike big boat spars. So with that in mind, I'd recommend a GOOD spar varnish. Spar varnish builds quickly too, so you should get gloss in just a few coats. Epifanes spar varnish is held in high regard for many. I assume you're planning on applying this to the interior, so UV protectors are somewhat less important that they would be outside. My second choice would be Waterlox. A good oval brush makes for a nice finish and fewer dips in the pain pail.

Not to be a wet blanket, but if you decide later on you want the natural wood look back, you'll play hell getting the varnish off.


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## marngar (Nov 26, 2014)

My logs are 6x8 rectangles. The contraction/expansion principle should be past. I was told that even after the kiln, they might move slightly for up to 12 years but after that they should be stable.

I was hoping someone would have a magic bullet product where I could get a nice shine in 1 application. :smile:

It doesn't sound like that might be the case from the responses. We're both in our 60s do we'd like to make this the least painful (literally) as possible.

Also, my porch extends all the way around the house so sunlight is not a problem on the walls.

I'd welcome any other replies and much thanks to those who already have.

Regards,


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## marngar (Nov 26, 2014)

I'd also add that the wife has cleaned the logs annually with Murphy's Oil Soap, so there's little buildup on the logs. I thought this might impact some of your thoughts.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

marngar said:


> I'd also add that the wife has cleaned the logs annually with Murphy's Oil Soap, so there's little buildup on the logs. I thought this might impact some of your thoughts.


You can use Krud Cleaner as suggested above or simply wipe the walls down with water. Murphys oil is not really an oil but mainly a soap, so it will be just fine. I suggest either a poly or a varnish as either will do well over the wood and will be just fine.


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## marngar (Nov 26, 2014)

*MinWax*

I found this product that says I would be able to reapply without sanding. 

Anyone familiar with it? Also, the wife informed me it was Pledge Lemon Oil she used to wipe the logs annually. 

Given that, should we use a water based or an oil based poly?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_85928-24-71...b678-9cc9-bf29-c318-000001b11f19&kpid=3099017


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

First of all polyurethane isn't known for being adhesion friendly. If a person isn't careful they can have adhesion problems going over old dried polyurethane. Anything like your murphy oil soap or especially the lemon oil is a threat to it adhering. You can really create a nightmare if you don't thoroughly clean it off first.

The fast dry polyurethane would be a easy product for you to use however the fumes will be strong and potentially explosive if there is anything in the house with a open flame or even a spark if you close the house up. It will need a lot of ventilation. A plus for it though is it be more likely to adhere than the water based counterpart. With the water based it would be necessary to apply a coat of Sealcoat prior to applying it. 

As far as sanding between coats, I sand everything whether it is absolutely necessary or not. Sanding between coats makes the finish smoother and better each time you sand it and with polyurethane it makes for better adhesion. With polyurethane it goes on it layers and the scratches from sanding aids the adhesion. Some finishes like shellac and lacquer each coat literally melt into the previous coat so sanding isn't necessary for adhesion, it just gets better.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

marngar said:


> I found this product that says I would be able to reapply without sanding.
> 
> Anyone familiar with it? Also, the wife informed me it was Pledge Lemon Oil she used to wipe the logs annually.
> 
> ...


That product is fine for what you are doing.

As far as the lemon pledge, you want to still do the krud cleaner or do a 50-50 mixture of water and ammonia to wipe away the wax and possibly silicone contamination.


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## pweller (Mar 10, 2014)

Be sure, whatever you do, to test the finish and application on an inconspicuous area before doing anything large-scale. You don't want to treat a large area only to find out it looks worse than when you started.


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## marngar (Nov 26, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> The fast dry polyurethane would be a easy product for you to use however the fumes will be strong and potentially explosive if there is anything in the house with a open flame or even a spark if you close the house up. It will need a lot of ventilation.


I plan to do this in January. I heat with a propane central unit so if I crack a window and close each room as we do it we should be good. right ?? 

This product dries quickly so that's a plus.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

marngar said:


> I plan to do this in January. I heat with a propane central unit so if I crack a window and close each room as we do it we should be good. right ??
> 
> This product dries quickly so that's a plus.


Well you won't be able to contain the fumes. You could leave the house closed up as long as you didn't pass out but everything that might ignite the fumes has to be turned off. I even turn on all the lights I need and leave them on. The light switch can make a spark which could ignite it. As dangerous as the stuff is it's better to go overboard with safety.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

marngar said:


> I plan to do this in January. I heat with a propane central unit so if I crack a window and close each room as we do it we should be good. right ??
> 
> This product dries quickly so that's a plus.


You can also use a water based finish if odor is a problem, which it sounds like it will be. There is a good product here:
http://www.permachink.com/log-stain/log-home-stain.html


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Perma ***** is one the finish companies specifically for logs. Sashco is also. Both companies have very good products and do extensive research.

They both make cleaners and finishes......The #1 problem I see you have is there's been a oil type substance already used and if I understand right there has never been a finish.....could be very tricky to get cleaned and prepped properly.

Best of luck....log homes are beautiful BUT expensive to maintain properly.


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