# rubbing with steel wool for sheen



## music321 (May 29, 2012)

in another post, calzone mentioned something about using course (00) steel wool for a matte finish, and fine (0000) for a high gloss. 

This makes me wonder about 2 things: first, I have read that to get a good matte finish, it's advisable to put down a clear coat (or several) then a final matte coat, so as not to dull things too much. If I were to use several layers of clear coat, then roughly rub w/ 00 steel wool, could I avoid having to use a matte coat altogether, and get the same effect?

secondly, i wonder if there's a disadvantage to using steel wool as opposed to brass wool. do i have to worry about rusting issues w/ steel wool? if so, is there any way to avoid them (like wiping down the piece with something after using the steel wool)? thanks.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I personally don't like the appearance of altering the sheen of a finish with steel wool. I prefer to use a finish with the sheen approiate to the look I want. It comes out more uniform that way. I normally use some type of sanding sealer to begin sanding between coats until I have a base and then use only one product for the topcoat, normally 2 to 3 coats. On a high gloss table top I may sand it with a 1500 to 2000 grit paper with water but I bring the sheen back with rubbing compound and a auto polisher.


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

im not expert on finishing but i wouldnt use steelwool or tackcloth . steelwool braks down and leaves tiny pieces. tack cloth can leave residue.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I've rubbed finishes out with 0000 steel wool and never had a problem with rust. That's the funniest thing I've ever heard. If you apply a coat of finish and it cures fully, then no reason for impregnating the wood with metal. I use a good 0000 steel wool, not cheap 0000 wool from ace hardware. There's a difference. Besides usually when you rub a finish with wool, is done in combination with a lubricant such as wax, soap, water, or even wool lube. JMO. 
No tack clothes. Use denatured alcohol. Much better, and dries fast.


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## music321 (May 29, 2012)

i guess i'll have to experiment with a few approaches. where would i get "good" steel wool? who sells rubbing compounds? are some better than others? I have a huge bag of diatomaceous earth, can i use this stuff for rubbing?


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Woodcraft sells Liberon. I'm not sure about the earth stuff you mentioned. 
Good luck.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

music321 said:


> in another post, calzone mentioned something about using course (00) steel wool for a matte finish, and fine (0000) for a high gloss.
> 
> This makes me wonder about 2 things: first, I have read that to get a good matte finish, it's advisable to put down a clear coat (or several) then a final matte coat, so as not to dull things too much. If I were to use several layers of clear coat, then roughly rub w/ 00 steel wool, could I avoid having to use a matte coat altogether, and get the same effect?


You can do it that way. The appearance of an unmolested topcoat will not appear the same as one that has been rubbed out.



music321 said:


> secondly, i wonder if there's a disadvantage to using steel wool as opposed to brass wool. do i have to worry about rusting issues w/ steel wool? if so, is there any way to avoid them (like wiping down the piece with something after using the steel wool)? thanks.


The rusting issue is more related to using a waterbased finish. Steel wool, even the better brands have a sharper abrasion potential than other "wools". There are mineral wools and bronze wool that work as well or better. I prefer to use a synthetic abrasive pad, like Scotch Brite, which, IMO, produces a very nice finish.









 







.


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## music321 (May 29, 2012)

thanks for the tips


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## Calzone (May 15, 2012)

Dominick said:


> I've rubbed finishes out with 0000 steel wool and never had a problem with rust. That's the funniest thing I've ever heard. If you apply a coat of finish and it cures fully, then no reason for impregnating the wood with metal. I use a good 0000 steel wool, not cheap 0000 wool from ace hardware. There's a difference. Besides usually when you rub a finish with wool, is done in combination with a lubricant such as wax, soap, water, or even wool lube. JMO.
> No tack clothes. Use denatured alcohol. Much better, and dries fast.


Yeah always use some kind of lubricant to lift particles. if you don't like steel wool, you can use sandpaper with lubricants just like you would with the steel wool. I like the steel wool because it doesn't corn up like sandpaper does. It also lets you get in small corners better. Main disadvantage using steel wool is that you can't level a finish with steel wool, so I usually Level it with 600 grit and mineral spirits, followed by 000 and 0000 steel wool to polish it up depending on how I want to control the sheen.

as for the steel wool brand, what brands would be good? I haven't a clue how to discern good from bad, save price and actually feeling the wool. Most hardware stores I go to just have some packages marked with steel wool with about 10 pieces inside.


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## music321 (May 29, 2012)

how does polished finish look compared to that which has been left alone?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

music321 said:


> how does polished finish look compared to that which has been left alone?


This can be a bit difficult to explain. A freshly wiped on topcoat, or a finish just off the gun will dry, and its surface is actually made up of minute deviations , some high, some low, that catch and reflect light in a certain manner. When sanded, or rubbed out, all the high spots get leveled out to the low spots, and the entire surface becomes more uniform. 

The appearance looks more evenly polished.








 







.


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

I would not use 00 steel wool for a final finish, much too coarse! Use 0000 steel wool with a good wax for a matte finish, or 1500 wet/dry paper. Use pumice and rotten stone, or an appropriate auto compound to get a high polish.

Kevin H.


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## music321 (May 29, 2012)

should the wax be left on, or removed after this final rubbing? it seems that if it's left on, it will collect dust.


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

when you are using 0000 and wax for a matte finish......................what kind of wax are you using ?


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

bob sacamano said:


> when you are using 0000 and wax for a matte finish......................what kind of wax are you using ?


You can use all different types of wax. I used bison paste wax. I like the smell of it, but the wife doesn't. It kinda smells like cigars. Lol


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## Charles Neil (Oct 21, 2007)

couple of notes here, I do not like a steelwool rubbed finish, I agree with all here. One of the things with a rubbed finish is they can tend to look cloudy, they lack the clean crisp detail. If your going to rub a finish, check out your local auto body supply and ask for either a finishers glaze or swirl remover, its a polish designed for new finishes, and is designed to handle the cloudy issue. Wax can often streak on new finishes, its a reaction to trace amount's of solvents not letting the wax fully harden, it can also slow the final cure time, the auto body stuff doesn't. 
I have become a fan of the Mirka abralon , which is basically fine sanding sponges, in a range of grits. Rubbing to a high gloss is easy, auto body rubbng and polishng compounds do excellent. Rubbing to a satin , semi gloss or matte sheen is more difficult.
There are several brands of the pads, Festool now has them , also another called Sia Air, all do well.
1000 is the matte, 2000 is a satin, 3000 a semigloss and 4000 is a gloss, they work well. The best thing about the pads is you can use them on yur random orbit , so no defined rub line is seen, no matter what, steel wood leaves a scratched look, the pads are also producing a scratch , but because of the random orbit as well as a very consistent grit, it is much better. This has just been my findings.


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## james23 (Nov 13, 2012)

Steel wool normally reduce the shiny sheen. It is consist of low carbon steel and its fibers can leave particles that may rust in high humidity environments. The availability of wool's is in many materials such as copper, brass, aluminum, stainless steel, bronze.


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## Purrmaster (Jul 19, 2012)

One note: Don't use steel wool on oak unless you're quite sure the oak is sealed up with finish. Steel wool reacts badly to oak and makes it go black. You can use synthetic steel wool instead.


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## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

I've had a pack of 0000 steel wool for years, used it once, didn't like it, switched to scotch brite. It's flat, more flexible, gets into corners much easier and doesn't leave the metal residue.
I use the maroon between coats and black for a final rub if I want a flat finish and white if I want a semi gloss.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

+1 for Charles Mirka Abralon. It is the best there is for rubbing out a finish. Use a DA sander with a velcro pad, sprinkle a little water on the surface and perfect rub out every time. 

Rubbed finishes do look and feel different than sprayed finishes so they aren't for everyone. The feel of a rubbed finish beats anything off the gun but for overall eveness of a lower sheen sprayed is more consistent.


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