# ripping/crosscutting ipe on an underpowered TS?



## yudkib (Jul 15, 2011)

hey guys, first time poster and hopefully many more.
i'm looking to take on a small, low-precision project with some 3x1 ipe decking. the problem is, i am broke, live in a tiny apartment, and dont yet own a table saw (see part 1 and 2).

ill have to rip and cross cut it, so a TS seems like the logical choice. im looking at buying a used compact one... theyre cheap (cheaper than renting), theyre small, i could store it... the problem is most compacts are low on power for something as hard as ipe. so thats question one: would you ever cut ipe on an underpowered saw? i wouldnt be opposed to two or even three rip passes to make sure i don't choke it. i also wouldnt be opposed to going really, really slow and knocking it out in one pass.

number two, a new blade was a given no matter what saw i get, so i could use some help deciding... the one im looking at is an odd size (8"???) so ill probably be looking for an 8 or 7.25. im thinking a thin kerf, maybe 24 tooth, carbide tipped, and something specifically labelled as an all-purpose wood blade. should i highly consider investing in two blades for this? anyone with other suggestions?

thanks in advance...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

How large is this project of yours? Hand saws cut just fine!... I often grab a hand saw off the bench for odd angles rather setting a saw for a cross cut... And rippings not bad either if not too long.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Ipe is tough stuff, but considering that its only 1" thick, I think a decent 7-1/4" blade will work fine. I'd look for a Freud Diablo, CMT, or Ridgid Titanium ($11)...something with 18T to 24T and a steep hook should be fine. 

You might find a decent used portable jobsite saw that'll be built better than your average $129 benchtop....Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, Ridgid, Hitachi, or Porter Cable would be worth a look.

Good luck! :thumbsup:


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## yudkib (Jul 15, 2011)

im guessing i'm going to have to rip about 25-30 board feet, and somewhere between 20 and 40 crosscuts all on the 45. as was already mentioned ipe is tough stuff. ive read that it's 2.5 times harder than oak, so considering doing it by hand was a pretty short decision.

ive considered looking for a portable instead of a benchtop, but most are bigger, and if i can't break the legs down to flat pieces (some looked like they're one-piece plastic), then its way too large for me to store. 

thanks for the tip on the blade. im guessing with a brand new blade and such thin planks it'll manage just fine, but i figured i'd ask someone with more experience. i think the benchtop i'm looking at is 1-1/4 hp... with that being said, would you cut it in two passes? rips/crosses/both?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I'd only rip it in two passes if the saw is struggling. Crosscuts typically need less power, so those should go fine. Try it and see! 

Something like the Makita isn't all that big, and I'd bet the ranch it'll outpower the ones below it:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I would keep my eye out for a 10" jobsite type saw, that folds up. With that size blade you can get a 20T carbide tipped. Ipe @ 1" is hard to saw. I would stick with a full kerf blade as it's less likely to flex. 

It would be a good idea to have an infeed and outfeed support even if it's one of the roller top stands. Those fold up and at times go on sale for $12 and some change.












 







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## yudkib (Jul 15, 2011)

im sure the makita could destroy this one. like i said, its only 1-1/4hp. the thing is every inch counts -- im hoping to put it in a closet. seriously my apartment is about 600 square feet for me, my girlfriend, and two cats. we have floor-to-ceiling storage everywhere thats not blocking a window, and its gotta fit in there.
plus most 1.5-2hp used TS's ive seen are 60-75... this one is 30 bucks, which is the going rate for benchtops on craigslist from what ive seen. if it doesnt work out i dont need to feel too bad.

not overly concerned about in-and-outfeed rollers since ill probably crosscut the wood to about 3' lengths before i rip it, then bevel cut it to proper dimensions afterward.

as for the blade, i figured a thin kerf would help make up for the lack of power. if i get a rough cut its not a problem, i can always plane it down if it really bothers me. just my line of thought -- if going with something studier is the way to go i'd definitely go that route. id much rather listen to someone experienced the first time than end up buying two blades.


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## yudkib (Jul 15, 2011)

bump -- looking for one more opinion on thin kerf vs. full kerf...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

yudkib said:


> bump -- looking for one more opinion on thin kerf vs. full kerf...


Thin kerf... Just make sure you get your blade and fence set square so you don't get blade deflection / pinching / burning / kick-back / injury / death... 

Good luck!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I would go with a thin kerf blade, 20 - 24 teeth for ripping.
As for infeed and out feed support, if ripping long pieces, clamp a board to a chair at the right height. If you buy a roller stand, beware, that they can steer the board away from the fence and ruin the cut, and cause kickback. I split a piece of pvc tubing and covered the roller on mine, and it works just as good, but doesn't steer the wood.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

yudkib said:


> bump -- looking for one more opinion on thin kerf vs. full kerf...


A 1/8" full kerf blade is only 1/32" wider than a 3/32" TK blade but that's a 33% increase, and requires proportionately more power to spin. TK's have more tendency to flex, but the better quality blades are pretty good. If posed with a choice between flexing and bogging, I'd choose flexing considering your application.


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## yudkib (Jul 15, 2011)

thanks for the input guys. ive been keeping my eyes peeled for a 10" since the guy with the 8" has done a great job pissing me off by constantly changing when hes available. there was one i was || this close to getting haha... 

at what hp/amperage would you go to a 1/8"? 2hp minimum?


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