# Sled with "roller bearing" support for table saw?



## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

I may be asking here for something that might not exist, at least in the size and type I would like, but let's give it a try.

Some of you know that I am planning on getting a SawStop Jobsite table saw, to be the main machine in a highly compact, lightweight, and portable "shop". 

I will be cutting a lot of small exotic hardwoods parts, and am impressed by what an Incra Miter Express plus Incra Miter 1000HD “combo” can do. 

For those not familiar with Incra tools:

the Miter Express is Incra's "compact" solution for a SLED that fits most table saws, including the SawStop Jobsite saw. The sled uses fully tunable guides that you custom adjust to the actual width of your saw's miter slots. It gets custom cut by you to your saw's specific table dimensions, and ends up with two plates, one on each side of the saw blade, providing true "zero clearance". The plates each slide in one of your table's miter slots, and each have recessed clamping rails which you can use to clamp workpieces firmly in place for precision cuts.

The Incra 1000HD miter is a compact but high-precision miter that cna be set to sub-degree accuracy and includes an 18" miter fence that expands to over 2 feet in length when needed.

Because both Incra tools use a lot of machined or tooled metal parts, and the Miter Express uses an MDF base that is just 1/2" thick, you only reduce your 10" saw's cutting depth capacity by 1/2".

What I would really like though is a sled, with all the above features, that also rides on roller bearings of some sort, to take virtually all the friction out of sliding the workpiece into and through the blade.

I realize that such "sliding tables" exist, but they are usually only found on European table saws, or on a few of the really large U.S. table saws. I have looked hard and cannot find any COMPACT saw, European or U.S., that has such a sliding table (which typically rides on bearings or machined ways of some form).

I don't want to build my own, since I'd have to use wood (I have no metalworking or metal cutting tools or skill sets) to get the necessary strength, durability, wear resistance, and miniaturized size to be anywhere near as usable as the Incra products.

Is there such a sliding table or sled product, designed to work on COMPACT table saws, that "slides" on bearings or other low friction systems?

I need the compact size of even the clamps and rails, as some of the pieces I will be cutting will involve multiple sequenced miter, bevel, or compound cuts on pieces that start out as small as 3/4" x 2" x 2" befire the compound cuts. I need to be able to clamp those parts securely, using clamps and support systems that are small enough (i.e. thin metal versus thick wood) to not "get in the way" of either the cut or reasonable visibility. I also don't want the sensitivity of wood to ambient humidity, and I really like the Incra's ability to adjust the miter slot guides to essentially zero clearance.

Why not hold by hand? I just regard that as a bad unsafe habit, and even though I will be using a SawStop saw, and probably wouldn't lose any fingers doing it, I'd rather not "test" the saw stopping technology, AND it would still cost me about $170 ($70 blade cartridge and $100 blade) every time I managed to "get too close" to those blade teeth.

Is there a suitable commercial product out there to meet my need here, or should I just accept the Incra tools as "the closest I can get"?

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*This may be what you are looking for...?*

This is a sliding table attachment for a table saw. It well made with precision bearings and anodized aluminum and if it's anything my other Jessem products it's outstanding.

http://www.jessemdirect.com/Mast_R_Slide_p/07500.htm

You probably won't need the miter gauge with this unit and just substitute a digital angle gauge for precision cuts to 1/10th of a degree.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Why would you need roller bearings? A coat of wax on the tabletop and you have no real friction with a sled made of mdf, or with anything really. Roller bearing would just be a fantastic way to spend a lot of money, not to mention wear a groove in your tabletop


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

epicfail48 said:


> Why would you need roller bearings? A coat of wax on the tabletop and you have no real friction with a sled made of mdf, or with anything really. Roller bearing would just be a fantastic way to spend a lot of money, not to mention wear a groove in your tabletop


 It would be cool. Besides you can't take the money with you. Might as well spend it.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> This is a sliding table attachment for a table saw. It well made with precision bearings and anodized aluminum and if it's anything my other Jessem products it's outstanding.
> 
> http://www.jessemdirect.com/Mast_R_Slide_p/07500.htm
> 
> You probably won't need the miter gauge with this unit and just substitute a digital angle gauge for precision cuts to 1/10th of a degree.


Thank-you, WoodnThings! I am researching it. SO FAR, here are the issues or questions raised about it:

- JessEm says it need a cast iron table to attach to. The SawStop Jobsite has a lightweight aluminum top, which may not be sufficient to support the JessEm. There is NO OTHER support for the JessEm other than the bolts that attach its EDGE to the EDGE of the saw table.

- It may require butchering (cutting off!) the left ends of the fence, which permanently alters and devalues the saw. This is what a number of buyers on Amazon discovered AFTER buying it.

- It is currently unavailable from JessEm (per the JessEm website)

- When available, it costs $599

- It does NOT support the workpiece all the way to the blad. The sliding/rolling bed is ENTIRELY to the left edge of the saw table. This means that the anti-friction feature won't work for me with my short workpieces

- This also means that the only clamping surface is the JessEm fence. I also need clamping surface on the TABLE (the horizontal surface) for many of my cuts

Still looking into it more though, in case I am missing something about other clamping surfaces . . .

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

epicfail48 said:


> Why would you need roller bearings? A coat of wax on the tabletop and you have no real friction with a sled made of mdf, or with anything really. Roller bearing would just be a fantastic way to spend a lot of money, not to mention wear a groove in your tabletop


The JessEm does NOT ride on the table, It rides BESIDE the left edge of the table (only).

While a waxed table certainly improves things, a roller bearing mlounted slide makes the movement VERY precisely smooth and controllable.

Jim G


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## pweller (Mar 10, 2014)

I would guess that you're looking for a 'do-all' type solution, which may not even exist. The reason I say this is because you're talking about making 'compound cuts on a 3/4 X 2 X 2' piece of wood. If you try to cut that with the blade angled, it's going to be very difficult to cut, and to clamp, just because there's not much material to hold.

My guess it that you will have to build specific jigs/sleds for specific cuts, and that some sort of 'do-all' solution probably won't work.

It looks like Bosch had something like what you're talking about, but it may not be available in the US or just discontinued. 
http://toolguyd.com/bosch-gts10xc-table-saw/


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*more food for thought ...*

Since you have such specific requirements I got to thinking about other ways to accomplish this:

_I need the compact size of even the clamps and rails, as some of the pieces I will be cutting will involve multiple sequenced miter, bevel, or compound cuts on pieces that start out as small as 3/4" x 2" x 2" before the compound cuts. I need to be able to clamp those parts securely, using clamps and support systems that are small enough (i.e. thin metal versus thick wood) to not "get in the way" of either the cut or reasonable visibility. I also don't want the sensitivity of wood to ambient humidity, and I really like the Incra's ability to adjust the miter slot guides to essentially zero clearance.
_
I came up with a compound sliding miter saw and a specific holding "trough" for each size blocks, much like the old wood miter guide for use with a back saw for picture frames. This jig would have a cam clamp to hold the pieces securely while your fingers are safely away from the blade. It would have stops so that all you do is drop your piece in, bump it to the stop, lock it down and make your cut. It would be dedicated for that particular dimension and angle of cut. It would be indexed to the saw table or fence for repeatability. You could make multiple cuts in the identical manner each time. You would need more than one jig for your different bevels and angles.... unless the resultant cuts did not alter the jig structurally.

You might research "segmented" bowls for info on how those folks make small identical pieces with compound bevels and angles.

If your Saw Stop table is like my Bosch job site, it is Teflon coated or some other propriety coating. It is very slick and smooth, no need for bearings in my opinion.

There are other sliding means than ball bearings such as this from Ebay:

*80/20 Inc 10 Series Single Short UniBearing, Part #6760. * 
This unibearing measures 1.875" wide x 2.062" long and is used in 10 Series UniBearing sliding applications. It has white unibearing pads which are made from UHMW-PE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethelene). Comes with extra shims. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-T-Slot...544001?hash=item4d3ae4a201:g:BeoAAOSwYHxWO3Pg


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

epicfail48 said:


> Why would you need roller bearings? A coat of wax on the tabletop and you have no real friction with a sled made of mdf, or with anything really. Roller bearing would just be a fantastic way to spend a lot of money, not to mention wear a groove in your tabletop


Totally agree. My plywood, homemade sled slides just fine. Even with a heavy load.

Remember the KISS principle.

George


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

pweller said:


> I would guess that you're looking for a 'do-all' type solution, which may not even exist. The reason I say this is because you're talking about making 'compound cuts on a 3/4 X 2 X 2' piece of wood. If you try to cut that with the blade angled, it's going to be very difficult to cut, and to clamp, just because there's not much material to hold.
> 
> My guess it that you will have to build specific jigs/sleds for specific cuts, and that some sort of 'do-all' solution probably won't work.
> 
> ...


Yes! But per the article:

"The GTS 10 XC Professional is only available in the UK and EU."

Interestingly, even though I had googled "European table saws" a couple of days ago, it did not come up.

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> Since you have such specific requirements I got to thinking about other ways to accomplish this:
> 
> _I need the compact size of even the clamps and rails, as some of the pieces I will be cutting will involve multiple sequenced miter, bevel, or compound cuts on pieces that start out as small as 3/4" x 2" x 2" before the compound cuts. I need to be able to clamp those parts securely, using clamps and support systems that are small enough (i.e. thin metal versus thick wood) to not "get in the way" of either the cut or reasonable visibility. I also don't want the sensitivity of wood to ambient humidity, and I really like the Incra's ability to adjust the miter slot guides to essentially zero clearance.
> _
> ...


The compound sliding miter saw is something I considered, and actually played with 3 of them in store displays imagining making the cuts, but ended up concluding that while it would work on SOME work pieces, various parts of the moving saw head would collide with the workpiece or clamps on other work pieces. I COULD consider having BOTH a table saw and sliding compound miter saw, but that fights the compact shop requirement. Still, a possibility.

I have saved that eBay link for the sliding bearing. I need to think about how I could use a set of those for a sliding setup that would still be thin.

Thanks for the ideas!

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

GeorgeC said:


> Totally agree. My plywood, homemade sled slides just fine. Even with a heavy load.
> 
> Remember the KISS principle.
> 
> George


You might well be right. Since I don't have the SawStop Jobsite yet, I just don't know yet.

That model saw does have a powdercoated aluminum table, which may well be slick enough.

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*miter slot size?*

The Saw Stop job site saw may have "non-standard" miter slots.... I donno? The standard size is 3/8" X 3/4".

http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm

This UHMW plastic comes in standard and smaller strip for making sleds that fit the miter slots. As someone who made my first table saw sled just a few years ago after decades of not having one, I can attest that it is not difficult to make. Mine was a bit advanced, with adjustable fences right and left and a fixed fence at the front edge. 









Here's the build thread:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/table-saw-sled-build-49218/

Here's another way to make a "sled" using identical miter gauges:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/crosscut-sled-jig-30811/


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## NickB (Sep 24, 2013)

Jim, you are severely overthinking/overengineering this one. 

A good sled _*is*_ a precision piece of equipment. It seems the aluminum vs cast table is validly concerning you. I can put your mind at ease with the fact that I've used plywood sleds on my Bosch 4100 (alum table as well) and it works just fine. An MDF or especially anything with a melamine (or similar) coating will glide even smoother. 

I agree with woodnthings on the UHMW runners and use them on all of my sleds. I bought a "sampler pack" of different thicknesses and just rip the 3/4" one into strips.


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## pweller (Mar 10, 2014)

I built this sled a while back specifically to cut small pieces. I know it looks dead simple, and it essentially is, but it is also very effective. It holds your workpiece firmly, and keeps your hands well away from the blade. It also allows you to safely cut pieces with no straight sides, you can just clamp it in any position and make a straight side.










There's a bit more information about it here: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/table-saw-sled-build-62447/

I built another one, which runs on the right side of the blade only, so it can be used to cut bevels (since my blade tilts to the left). I also built a holder for that one to allow me to cut tenons as well. It's a versatile set up, and very safe.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> The Saw Stop job site saw may have "non-standard" miter slots.... I donno? The standard size is 3/8" X 3/4".
> 
> http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm
> 
> ...


The SawStop Jobsite does have standard sized miter slots - I checked a few days ago.

The UHMV does interest me a lot. Thank-you!

Jim G

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

pweller said:


> I built this sled a while back specifically to cut small pieces. I know it looks dead simple, and it essentially is, but it is also very effective. It holds your workpiece firmly, and keeps your hands well away from the blade. It also allows you to safely cut pieces with no straight sides, you can just clamp it in any position and make a straight side.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like your clamping arrangement especially. It has a lot of "reach" for different sized work pieces.

Jim G


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

I just realized:

Incra ships some pieces of "tape" with the Miter Express to use a friction reducers applied to the bottom of the sled. I'll bet that the tape is the "UHMV Slick Tape" seen at the bottom of the UHMV product page you linked! 

Jim G


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

JimGnitecki said:


> The JessEm does NOT ride on the table, It rides BESIDE the left edge of the table (only).
> 
> While a waxed table certainly improves things, a roller bearing mlounted slide makes the movement VERY precisely smooth and controllable.
> 
> Jim G


The point I was making is that roller bearings won't be much of a noticeable improvement over standard plywood sled. The only thing they'll do is empty your wallet faster and wear grooves into your table top, provided you can even find a sled with roller bearings. I suspect, however, that you won't be able to. 

Keep in mind that I'm referring to a sled, something that would ride on top of the existing table, NOT something like a sliding table. Different concepts at work there.

Again though, you really shouldn't be worried about excess friction with a sled. Build it right and it'll move when you blow on it, no trouble with controllability or accuracy there. Besides, if there were too much friction for the sled to move, there'd be too much friction to slide anything across the top to cut


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

woodnthings;1230986
Here's another way to make a "sled" using identical miter gauges:
[url said:


> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/crosscut-sled-jig-30811/[/url]


Another example where the splitter will need to be removed.


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

Toolman50 said:


> Another example where the splitter will need to be removed.


Not where the saw comes with the right riving knife, which stays as low or lower than the top of the blade!

Jim G


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## NickB (Sep 24, 2013)

JimGnitecki said:


> Not where the saw comes with the right riving knife, which stays as low or lower than the top of the blade!
> 
> Jim G


True. Low profile riving knives are pretty common. IIRC, I think the PM2000 shipped with a standard blade guard knife & a low pro. Like most of us, I usually foolishly just use the low profile knife for everything (no guard).


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## thereefgeek (Jan 18, 2010)

That's funny. The subject of this month's email was the pros an cons of manual wood working:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f97/pros-cons-woodworking-manual-tools-121626/

Maybe it's time to start sharpening up the plane iron and going at it old school...


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

thereefgeek said:


> That's funny. The subject of this month's email was the pros an cons of manual wood working:
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f97/pros-cons-woodworking-manual-tools-121626/
> 
> Maybe it's time to start sharpening up the plane iron and going at it old school...


The reason I prefer power tools is that my MANUAL skillsets are so poor! 

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ya know Jim ....*

After a beer or two and after some 200 posts on the various threads you started full of sage advice ... here's what I would recommend at this point. Get your Saw Stop contractor saw. Made a small sled for it. Try it out. Get yourself that Grizzly Mill/Drill and try it out. Get the shop vac which you will need regardless. Get a Rikon 10" bandsaw or the Craftsman clone. ....... AND GO FOR IT! 

None of the tools may be perfect, but you will learn just like the rest of us what works and what doesn't and how you may have to innovate here or there to make them work to your satisfaction. 

You may want to pick up a disc/belt sander to finish the surfaces. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Sanding-...836372?hash=item1c5ea32c94:g:G2oAAOSwv-NWURkg

You can get a 10" sanding plate for your table saw, but I would not care for the changeover drill that's required each time you go from sawing to sanding .... and that's why all my sanding plates stay in the drawer. I may need another table saw for sanding?  I actually have a spare, or I could use the Bosch job site .....

So, just get on with it and let us know how things work. If we can't help you decide which machine to get, then maybe we can help you with the process of making the toys or blocks or what ever it was you wanted all this stuff for in the first place......it's been a long time. :laughing:

All the Best to you, Jim :yes:


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> After a beer or two and after some 200 posts on the various threads you started full of sage advice ... here's what I would recommend at this point. Get your Saw Stop contractor saw. Made a small sled for it. Try it out. Get yourself that Grizzly Mill/Drill and try it out. Get the shop vac which you will need regardless. Get a Rikon 10" bandsaw or the Craftsman clone. ....... AND GO FOR IT!
> 
> None of the tools may be perfect, but you will learn just like the rest of us what works and what doesn't and how you may have to innovate here or there to make them work to your satisfaction.
> 
> ...


Good advice.

I too don't like the idea of using a sanding disc on the table saw. Beyond the changeover drill each time, I continue to believe that a betl type sanding machine is better for at least 2 reasons:

- The linear sanding is less likely to sand "unevenly" than a circular motion must unavoidably do, due to the speed variance across the varying diameter of the sanding disc (rim is passing many more fps of sanding surface than near the center of the disc)

- The larger belt sanding surface enables me to place the entire side of a workpiece on the belt at once, again improving evenness of the sanding

Here are my current plans:

I just signed on as an IT project manager to assist a client in Indianapolis (1100 miles away) in preparing and executing a technology software and services request for proposal. Depending on how that effort goes, it COULD go as long as 4 months, or even beyond. This means I may be out of town except for part of each weekend, for up to 4 months. That makes this a poor time to spend the money on the equipment and have it sit unattended and unused in ambient temperature and humidity conditions. Logic suggests strongly that I wait until the assignment is over.

However, if a "great deal" on any individual piece of equipment comes up while I am still out of town, new or used, I might just jump on it to capture the saving. 

As of right now, here is what I plan to get:

Saw: 
(needed to substitute for planer to surface short sections of rough exotic hardwoods into planks, and then to crosscut, rip, miter, bevel, and perform compound miter/bevel cuts)
SawStop Jobsite saw
79 lb + 29 lb cart =108 lb 1300
26.25" x 28.75" x 45"H with cart (19.7 cu ft)
(saw, 28.75 is “handlebar width” when stored)
31.75” W x 28.75” D (26.63 w/o handle) x 15.5” H w/o cart (8.2 cu ft)
$1299
+Blade: Tenryu GM-25540 (“Gold Medal”, .111 kerf, very quiet) or GM-25540-2 if want a .125” kerf
OR Freud P410 
+Zero clearance insert TSI-SJB
+Incra Miter Express + Miter 1000HD “combo” 284.85 (combo saves 60.05) 
30 lb!!
Both the riving knife and the blade guard spreader are designed for 10” blades and have a thickness of 2.3mm. Only use 10” blades with a kerf between 2.35mm (.0925”) and 3.5mm (0.138”) , and with a blade body between
(.071”) 1.8mm and 2.1mm (.0828”).

"Drill press":
(Needed to drill holes in components, mostly to enable doweling togetehr of component pieces, and to drill axle holes in dowel "wheels")
Grizzly G8689 MINI MILLING MACHINE
20 x 20 x 30-1/4 in. (7 cu ft)
101 lb
$645+79 ship = $724

Sander:
(Needed to provide final smooth finish on components after table saw cuts, and on sub-assembled and assembled toys)
Benchtop belt sander / disc sander combo:
Rockwell RK7866 Belt Disc Sander
4.3 amp, 4x36 belt, 6” disc $145
10.6”w x21.75”d x 12.6”h (sand) (1.7 cu ft)
45 lb

Arbor press: (needed to press-fit dowels into wood component pieces)
Jet AP-1 (1-ton. Chosen for its throat and height capacity)
5w x 10.75d x12h (0.4 cu ft)
27 lb
$99 shipped

Shop vacuum:
(Needed for Mini Milling Machine chip extraction, and general cleanup)
Shop-Vac 5872410 
11.5 amps
17.2 x 14 x 17.8 inches (2.5 cu ft)
16 lb net
$85

+ minor accessories (FOLDING workstation, pushsticks, featherboards, etc)
Totals for "the compact and portable shop":

Cubic feet: approx 20 + folding workstation
Weight: approx 298 lb
Cost:approx $2850 + minor accessories if need to buy all items new

Not that bad.

The table saw and its onboard accessories are the big ticket cost contributors, but mainly because I am insisting on a SawStop Jobsite saw and that is $1299 plus tax by itself.

The primary weight contributors are the table saw with onboard accessories and the milling machine. Note that the Mini Mill is actually quite a lot lighter than any drill press with comparable capabilities.

Notice also how few total cubic feet are needed to store everything - just 20 cu ft plus whatever a folding workstation consumes when folded up.

I'm thinking I'll design and build a custom cabinet. 20 cubic feet is not all that big. 

The next thing I'll likely ask for help on here is to help me figure out what 3D design software (that runs on a Mac) would be the simplets for me to use to eliminate the manual "drafting" of drawings for the toys. 

Jim G


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If you get lost around the Detroit area ...*

Send me a PM and I'll have you over for a beer, or hot chocolate depending on the weather. :yes:


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> Send me a PM and I'll have you over for a beer, or hot chocolate depending on the weather. :yes:


Hey, Indianapolis to SE Michigan is probably over 400 miles each way . . .

But I sure would like to meet you in person some day. Maybe on one of my cross-country trips some day (I have that enclosed toyhauler/garage/RV trailer that I use to haul me and my Harley around the country when I get the urge to vacation). 

Jim G


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## [email protected] (Apr 27, 2012)

Where did y'all get the idea "roller balls" and ball bearings are "friction-free". NOTHING is friction-free. Remember, too, that you're working with wood. Tolerances with wood are less precise than metal. Even if you have two perfect surfaces glued together, the "thickness" and "unevenness" of the glue will make the joint less than perfect. Maybe y'all should waste more time looking for something like the last significant digit for the value of pi.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Blah blah blah. Near zero friction is close enough. Better then 2 pcs of sandpaper rubbing on each other.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Your sarcasm is NOT appreciated*



ngk20000 said:


> Where did y'all get the idea "roller balls" and ball bearings are "friction-free". NOTHING is friction-free. Remember, too, that you're working with wood. Tolerances with wood are less precise than metal. Even if you have two perfect surfaces glued together, the "thickness" and "unevenness" of the glue will make the joint less than perfect. * Maybe y'all should waste more time looking for something like the last significant digit for the value of pi*.



That's pretty sarcastic and uncalled for. :thumbdown:


You are the only one to mention "friction-free" or "roller balls" and for a newbie poster with only 5 posts at this count, you have no "street creds" here. I suggest you find another place to vent your "opinions" about the subject OR tone down your remarks and actually contribute something useful. :furious:


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## JimGnitecki (Dec 5, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> That's pretty sarcastic and uncalled for. :thumbdown:
> 
> 
> You are the only one to mention "friction-free" or "roller balls" and for a newbie poster with only 5 posts at this count, you have no "street creds" here. I suggest you find another place to vent your "opinions" about the subject OR tone down your remarks and actually contribute something useful. :furious:


Thanks, WoodnThings. You beat me to it. (I've been on airplanes and in meetings all day).

It's nicer when we all help each other. :smile:

Jim G


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

I bought 36 5/8' roller bearings to put on a Bandsaw resaw table. The Five 200 pound walnut logs well the first one was not sliding very well. Hense the bandsaw resaw sled is 5/8 plywood that will be rolling over these bearing that are spaced about 6" apart. Anyone had any experience on this before? This is my first friction reducer table I have built.

The bearings will have rest on a plywood base and a 1/2" plywood with forstner holes in it will hold them in position every 6" or so. Then I will screw the plywood base and this forstner cheese looking plywood together with screws. The bearings with then only show up about 1/8" above the work surface. 

I am thinking here and about to do it tonight. If you have any opinions holler!
Picture of what I am talking about. 
http://readyrangers.tzo.com/2019ShopUpdate/2019Shopupdatei013.jpg


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

epicfail48 said:


> Why would you need roller bearings? A coat of wax on the tabletop and you have no real friction with a sled made of mdf, or with anything really. Roller bearing would just be a fantastic way to spend a lot of money, not to mention wear a groove in your tabletop



Could not agree more. Wonder how the manufacturer keeps the saw dust out of the roller bearings?


George


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

SawStop makes a sliding table option for their table saws but I have no idea if it will fit the jobsite model. On a second look it fits the contractor saws but not the jobsite. Heres the link though it may not work for what you want.
https://www.sawstop.com/saw-options/sliding-tables#options


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

Well I am purchasing another 14 of these bearings. My Resaw sled just using half of the table from the blade to the side away from the neck of the bandsaw did a great job using these bearings with the 200 lb walnut logs. Yet I got lazy and wanted a return pull on the winch that I was using and the weight on the infeed side of the sled caused the sled to derail 1" and I sawed right through the edge of the sled.... so... making a new sled for the table. It will have a slot that the blade goes down for 5 feet. One end will be able to remove a clapse when I put it on the saw table. Then close that so both ends of the sled stay in place. The other end will be 28" wide of 3/4" plywood and 5 foot long with guides on both sides of the table not using the miter slot anymore. This will allow me to still use the winch pulling from the middle of the sled and also use a weight that will allow me to reverse the winch and the weight will pull the sled back to start after it's cut off a slab. Using the winch is a major work saver. Pushing those 12" wide logs 4' would wear you out after a couple of hours. 

This setup worked on the first sled several times but as the log got lighter it pulled the sled out of the slot and caused the resawing boards to no longer be straight. So the guides on bothsides will fix that. The bearings after resawing 15 logs are still clean as the sled overs most of them up while the log is being resawn. 

Was thinking of using a triangular shape to lock the sides of the sled into so it stays in alignment up and down and left to right. N


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

Does anyone have a good idea on a 10' rail for each side of this table that would keep it from going left to right and up and down. Is there something I can purchase or suggested parts?

Thanks.

Mark Jones


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Linear bearings that ride on a shaft might work.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

hwebb99 said:


> It would be cool. Besides you can't take the money with you. Might as well spend it.



If I just have to spend some money, I can think of a LOT of better uses.


George


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

Leo G said:


> Linear bearings that ride on a shaft might work.


Do you have a source for these?


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node=238905011&field-keywords=linear+bearings


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

Thanks. I searched yesterday for these and found a site they are getting back to me on a bid. Rails need to be about 6' long to provide the alignment with the blade. Attached 4 pictures. The rails would be on both sides. I have not ruled out a triangular edge on the plywood sled that would meet a inverted triangle that the sled would slide into on each side. I have not done a moving woodworking joint like this and don't know if it would hold up long. Thought using some Angle iron channel but the linear bearings and 6 foot rails look like a good solution. 

Here is a video on the table setup and if you fast forward to about 3/4 way through the winch is pulling the sled.





I have a bunch more logs to resaw if I want to. It's kind of fun. I have 3 pallets of walnut, cedar and ash to make something out of when it cures out. 

Always open to ideas and suggestions. Thanks for the ideas and help.


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

Once I added the weight on the backside the pressure between the winch and the infeed side after the log lost some weight the sled would come out of the miter slot. It worked great until that happened! Then it cut about a 1" off of my sled and I no longer had a blade cutting guide on the sled. So am remaking the sled out of 3/4" plywood and guiding it on both sides of the table with the miter slot guide. 

The 5/8 plywood sled was not thick enough the t-tracks that make the fence adjustable would come loose after a while so it needed to be thicker. The new sled will run over the entire width of the table that will stop any deflection from happening..this became a issue when I added a weight on the infeed side. I will be extending the roller bearings over the whole top of this table to support the entire weight of the sled. Those walnut logs are way heavy. Cedar not so much...but 4' of 12" of raw log can get heavy.

It's a project. Should have it made this weekend unless I go kayaking...ha Fun then more fun!


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

Placed the extra 18 bearing to cover the whole resaw table top. Using the 1/2" plywood as a keeper so all I had to do was drill wholes in the half inch plywood with a forstner bit and slip in the eyeball bearings and put a piece of tape over that to hold them when I flipped them over one time and then screwed that down to the 1/4" plywood already on the table. Screws went into the table wood not just the 1/4" plywood. 

I used some 3/4" red oak plywood. put a 7" side on each side of the table flush with the bottom of the table then cut a 1 and 5/8" piece and screwed that to the top edge to act as a guide and a limiter. The new sled is 3/4 red oak as well that covers the whole width of the table and slides against these side red oak runners and limit boards. Used some paste wax to lube this friction point. 

Sled worked great. Nice and smooth and almost no slop. Cut about 10 1" by 9" cedar boards with it. 

Said to say my grizzly saw motor gave up the ghost. It will run but has no power. It is now kicking the breaker. Bought it in Feb so it's under warranty. With out warranty it's 300.00 smackers. This hobby is expensive! Yet it fun! here is a brief writeup on this update and my shop update for the past 2 years. 
http://readyrangers.tzo.com/2019shopupdate/shopupdate2019.htm


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

The old motor had a winding fault to ground that made it non fixable. Installed the new warrantied 2hp 220 volt motor and finished the resawing and cleanup. Took down the table am done with resawing for a while. Will store it back up in the attic tonight. On to summer fun with Rangers. Cardboard boat regatta, Camping, Kayaking, Fishing and fun!


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