# Old Craftsman Jointer



## walleye vision (Mar 3, 2013)

So I found this jointer on CL (see picture). He's asking $150. Anyone recognize this unit? Is it any good? What would you offer?

Thanks,

WV


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## walleye vision (Mar 3, 2013)

Here's the pic


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## maple man (Dec 21, 2012)

walleye vision said:


> Here's the pic


Steve Ramsey of woodworking for mere mortals has that jointer and has many problems whit it the table in particular


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It's very durable but it isn't a very good jointer. I've been using one like that for about 40 years. The rear table isn't adjustable so you have to put the knives in perfect to work. Sometimes that can take hours. The fence won't stay at 90 degrees. You can set it up and use it for a couple of hours and then find it's off a degree or two. I finally took it off and made a homemade fence which I can depend on. It does have enough power for edge jointing. I've jointed miles of red oak on mine. The price is about what they are going for in the Dallas area.


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## walleye vision (Mar 3, 2013)

Thanks for the replies guys. I won't be pursuing it now.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I have an older one*

Mine has a fixed outfeed table. It looks like that one has a knob adjustment of the outfeed table...?
I've had it for about 40 years, with no problems except to replace the 2 arbor bearings.
The lack of outfeed table adjustment is not an issue for me, I donno about Steve Ramsey's experience. 
Setting the blades is easy once you understand the process.
As far as a reasonable offer $150 tops or $100 bargain. it's very bulletprooof and will serve you well. JMO.


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## nbo10 (Jan 26, 2011)

I got one like that for $50. Anything more I would have felt ripped off. The main complaint is that the outfeed table does not have an adjustment. This results in a lot of snipe at the end of a board.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*sounds like your blades are set too high*



nbo10 said:


> I got one like that for $50. Anything more I would have felt ripped off. The main complaint is that the outfeed table does not have an adjustment. This results in a lot of snipe at the end of a board.


here's a good yideo on set up:






Another good one:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

nbo10 said:


> I got one like that for $50. Anything more I would have felt ripped off. The main complaint is that the outfeed table does not have an adjustment. This results in a lot of snipe at the end of a board.



My jointer has no adjustable outfeed table. I have no snipe on boards run through that jointer. The secret is even pressure. Do not keep all of the pressure on the right side of the board as the end passes over the blades.
'
Even with an adjustable table you an get snipe with improper technique.

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> My jointer has no adjustable outfeed table. I have no snipe on boards run through that jointer. The secret is even pressure. Do not keep all of the pressure on the right side of the board as the end passes over the blades.
> '
> Even with an adjustable table you an get snipe with improper technique.
> 
> George


+1. :yes:








 







.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*even with proper technique...*



GeorgeC said:


> Even with an adjustable table you an get snipe with improper technique. George


Even with proper technique but with an improperly set up jointer, you will still get snipe....just sayin' :yes:


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i have what appears to be the exact same model. 
wish i had bigger -yes. 
wish i had better - yes. 
does it work - yes. 

like most machines, they require tlc and "tuning" to stay on. mine is "on".


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## cey146 (Oct 8, 2013)

I also have one which is very similar, think mine is a 1977 model. It is in pieces right now, as I have it tore down to replace the bearings. Overall, not bad for a homeowner/woodworker shop. If I was working at it full time, I'd want something with a little more power, and a longer table. I'd say here in Central Illinois, it would bring about $100.

Good Luck in your quest!


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## Stevedore (Dec 28, 2011)

I have an older Delta similar in design. It's a little annoying to set the knives without an adjustable outfeed table, so I've been watching CL for a little better model. Although I may buy a new Craftsman or Ridgid.

From what I see around my area, I'd probably hope for about $50-75 for the one I have now.


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

Well, just to add my 2 cents...I have one that looks very similar to yours and I just replaced the blades. All you have to do is install them level with the outfeed table, took about 15~20 minutes using a metal straight edge. The blades were $5.00 + $2.60 shipping so no need to ever have to use dull blades. I paid $75.00 for mine and you would have to steal it at midnight to get it away from me. Never had any problem with the fence. I do wish it was bigger, sure but if I work within it's limitations it preforms very well. TimPa summed it up very well, GeorgeC's comment is spot on too. I make sure I favor the outfeed side as far as pressure and try to push horizontally from the infeed side. :yes:


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

I'd echo adot45. Mine's a bit older, though. Got mine new in 1974. I use a magnetic gizmo to set the blades. No snipe. Not a great jointer for flattening, but I use the planer and sled for that as most of my jobs require at least a 10" bed. 
Never could wrap my head around the adjustable outfeed design. Just seems like one more thing to get out of whack.


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## nbo10 (Jan 26, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> here's a good yideo on set up:
> Setting Straight Jointer Knives - YouTube
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the videos. I didn't know that the knifes themselves can be adjusted.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I just got one just like that. It was a friend of mine's who died recently ... his wife gave it to me.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

GeorgeC said:


> My jointer has no adjustable outfeed table. I have no snipe on boards run through that jointer. The secret is even pressure. Do not keep all of the pressure on the right side of the board as the end passes over the blades.
> '
> Even with an adjustable table you an get snipe with improper technique.
> 
> George


George, 
The secret is not even pressure. The secret is to have the knives/blades adjusted correctly. If you don't have the blade height on the money, you will get snipe regardless of the pressure applied to the board. That's a fact. >


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Toolman50 said:


> George,
> The secret is not even pressure. The secret is to have the knives/blades adjusted correctly. If you don't have the blade height on the money, you will get snipe regardless of the pressure applied to the board. That's a fact. >


That is true. You really have to pay attention to both. Regardless it has been a good jointer for me for these past 30+ years.

George


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Seems to me one needs both, well adjusted blades and even pressure, especially if the wood is soft and/or thin.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

GeorgeC said:


> That is true. You really have to pay attention to both. Regardless it has been a good jointer for me for these past 30+ years.
> 
> George


My joiner was probably at least 20 years old when I got it used. It's an old 6" Heston Anderson with a 60" table. I've had it since about '74. Great joiner.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I don't know about "even" pressure ....*



Chris Curl said:


> Seems to me one needs both, well adjusted blades and even pressure, especially if the wood is soft and/or thin.


I owned this exact jointer for about 40 years and it worked just fine.
I always set my own blades using an aluminum bar resting on the non-adjustable outfeed table and watching how far it moved when the cutter head was rotated. Each side of trhe blade was tested in the same manner until they all moved the bar the same amount. By having the bar move, it's obvious that the blades were slightly higher than the table surface. So much for setting the blades..... :smile3:

 

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/honing-jointer-blades-how-10066/

As far as feed pressure, I used various pressure depending on the actual condition of the board. A severely curved board required that I joint in from each end until the curve was all but eliminated. I used a light pressure for this part of the process. Then, when ready to make a full pass, I started with "firm" pressure on the infeed and transferred that same pressure to the outfeed when sufficient length was on the table. I use the jointer like it's a giant hand plane, only it's powered so I don't have to work so hard.


And BTW, I never got any snipe using this technique. :|


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> I owned this exact jointer for about 40 years and it worked just fine.
> I always set my own blades using an aluminum bar resting on the non-adjustable outfeed table and watching how far it moved when the cutter head was rotated. Each side of trhe blade was tested in the same manner until they all moved the bar the same amount. By having the bar move, it's obvious that the blades were slightly higher than the table surface. So much for setting the blades..... :smile3:
> 
> And BTW, I never got any snipe using this technique. :|


I used your same technique for about 40 years. Usually using my framing square. But about a year ago I re-set using a dial indicator for the first time. It made a real difference. Much better. The moving bar technique gets you very, very close. (You may even say "close enough") But the dial indicator gets you dead-on, on the money. I was impressed and will now always use this method. :yes:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Not everyone has one.....*



Toolman50 said:


> I used your same technique for about 40 years. Usually using my framing square. But about a year ago I re-set using a dial indicator for the first time. It made a real difference. Much better. The moving bar technique gets you very, very close. (You may even say "close enough") But the dial indicator gets you dead-on, on the money. I was impressed and will now always use this method. :yes:


While I have several dial indicators, I never felt the need to use one on this jointer since I got good results using the "stone age" method. I have a woodworker buddy who uses a powerful magnet from an old loud speaker to hold his blade even with the outfeed table. I haven't tried that method, but it may be more accurate than mine. My concern is that it might be difficult to work around the magnet to make the adjustments ...... I donno?


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I just looked at it again ... it is a 113.206932 ... 1985.


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