# Router table build



## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Busy weekend. Sat built the box for under my bench and today this router table i started. Need to do the drawers and doors. Made from 3 2x4. My first time doing panels.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Last few


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

*Lift*

You Might want to consider building this...

Router Lift

I did and it works GREAT!!!! Less than $20 bucks in materials


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Very cool. How long did it take you to make? I would love it.


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## HSpencer (Jan 21, 2013)

I'm all over your router table! This is something I have wanted to do, and there are millions of plans for them. I really like the way your doing it. I am using an antique router table that I had to stop and rebuild the other day as it was just falling apart. It works well now, and I put a new router into it, but I find I do most of my work with a hand held router. The way I have it set up, I get by ok, but I would like to do one like you are. Great job!


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

HSpencer said:


> I'm all over your router table! This is something I have wanted to do, and there are millions of plans for them. I really like the way your doing it. I am using an antique router table that I had to stop and rebuild the other day as it was just falling apart. It works well now, and I put a new router into it, but I find I do most of my work with a hand held router. The way I have it set up, I get by ok, but I would like to do one like you are. Great job!


 
Thank you. Im happy with how its coming along. Cheep too. I use underlament 1/4 $12 from HD 4x8 I actually had left overs. and 3 2x4 so far. Cut them in half and used a table saw to make the datto down the middle for the pannel. VERY strong. I would love to do the lift that Mission posted. If not its ok.


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

MasterSplinter said:


> Very cool. How long did it take you to make? I would love it.


Did it all in a weekend. Ace Hardware had all the parts I needed. Plans are very straight forward and easy to follow. It is Very Critical that the holes be drilled accurately so set up the Drill Press with HIGH ACCURACY


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> Did it all in a weekend. Ace Hardware had all the parts I needed. Plans are very straight forward and easy to follow. It is Very Critical that the holes be drilled accurately so set up the Drill Press with HIGH ACCURACY


Really. Ace had all of it? Even the solid rod? Where were you able to get the plans? Buy the back issue? Thanks


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Its been a while. I was being tormented with building a lift. Torn between a tilting one and a reg one. This was the most painful build. If i had only known before i built the table i could have built it around the lift. This whole time figuring out a design i like and keeping the cost low. Major pain fitting a design to my table. So sat i went down stairs determined to build it and wouldnt leave till i had it figured out. Sat there stairing at my bench for an hour and a half trying to get started. I had 3 different designs i liked. I ended up ditching the tilt. Maybe next time. Sat night i got alot done. Sunday night i finished it. Today i cut the top and cleaned up. I only needed to level it front to back the width of a plane blade. I used a #7 plane blade to do the job. Now i can finish up the drawers and fence.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Last few


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Ok now that's just extremely friggin cool! Good on you. What's your plans for the fence?


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Crusader said:


> Ok now that's just extremely friggin cool! Good on you. What's your plans for the fence?


I want to use maple plywood. Nice and ridged. I will install a t slot. Adj guides on both side o the bit with a sacrificial MDF for the bit. Dust port on the back. Anything else you think i should add?


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## Crusader (Jan 14, 2013)

Man that is going to be nice, what about an ON/ OFF switch mounted in an easy to get to spot? Nice safety feature :thumbsup:

man I gotta say that homemade lift is super cool!


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

MasterSplinter said:


> I want to use maple plywood. Nice and ridged. I will install a t slot. Adj guides on both side o the bit with a sacrificial MDF for the bit. Dust port on the back. Anything else you think i should add?


individually adjustable sides, so you can joint with your router would be a good addition.

that is ... if you decide you want to joint with the router as opposed to using a hand plane.

frankly though, i think that setting up a router table for jointing takes much longer than just grabbing a hand plane.

exactly what are you planning on doing with the router?

i don't use mine much anymore actually ... but i did use it the other day for the grooves in the shop-built honing guide i made. that was the first time i needed it since thanksgiving.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

On off switch is an excellent idea. 

Chris. I use my router alot. For edging. Dado. I want to do MT. I really want to step up my building to a higher level. . I have made my share of ugly things in my time. I have had limited tools. Now that ibought a higher quality router and dovetail jig. I want to challenge myself more in my building.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Splinter,

That is great, and I wish you the best. but PLEASE take dust control very seriously, epsecially if you plan on using plywood or exotic woods.

When I was making my router table, I did alot of routing, and most of it was with plywood. The fine dust that gets kicked up into the air is bad news, and plywood dust is REALLY nasty. That stuff will mess you up if you don't manage it appropriately. And believe me, a router can make a LOT of dust, really fast!

So, while a router is one of the most useful things you can have in a shop, it needs good dust control to be usable.

Dust control issues (router and table saw) is actually the main reason why I went to primarily hand tools ... that and the way I don't want to have to have tubes everywhere and wear eye, ear and lung protection to make a drawer.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Thank you chris. I plan to have a dust collecting port on the fence and some type of moveable one on the leading edge of a piece.


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

Hey Chris i just wanted to let you know im getting a DC for my basement. Im getting the middle size one from HF. Better than nothing and better than a shop vac.


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## gimmodog (Feb 3, 2013)

I'm not sure how much the DC is from HF but I think its around $200. Woodcraft is having a clearance sale on 1 of the Jet DC's. reg $499 on sale for $369. It was enough discount that I couldn't pass it up! I needed 1 badly. I had to order it through the local store so I won't get it until next week. Now I have to figure where to cut the hole in the wall so it will be outside under the 2nd floor stairwell and small deck. I like the idea of out of the way and this very quiet. I will eventually build over & around it to better protect it from the weather.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

gimmodog said:


> ...I will eventually build over & around it to better protect it from the weather.


...and better protect you from angry neighbors! :laughing::laughing:

Spinter, the table is looking great. I am really impressed with the lift system. I look forward to seeing the whole project complete.


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## gus1962 (Jan 9, 2013)

That's looking great !


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

My next addition to my router table. I did it tonight. Still need to install the t tracks. This will mount across the back to the t tracks. Its a Micro adj fence.


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## windygorge (Feb 20, 2013)

Super cool raise and lower design


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## ChipperOfWood (Oct 18, 2012)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> You Might want to consider building this...
> 
> Router Lift
> 
> I did and it works GREAT!!!! Less than $20 bucks in materials


I have seen many lifts but I think this is among the best. I am on the cusp of building one myself because I am at present building a new cabinet for a new router.

I have a couple of concerns. One is whether or not the hole for the wrench to operate the lift might interfere with a fence.

How large is your table? Maybe I missed it but I didn't see it. What material is it?

Regarding your getting parts from Ace. My wife works for an Ace hardware and I get a discount. :thumbsup: So what parts did you get there. She was not aware of the rods or bearings but did admit that she doesn't know everything that comes in and goes out of the store.
I can understand the nuts and bolts etc. But the rods and bearings are of concern.

Lastly, I am wondering if the router motor were placed a bit higher if the bit might be changed from above the table eliminating the need for the hinged top. Or perhaps one of those angled wrenches might be the answer.

Bottom line is I like this alto.:thumbsup: Thanks.

Charlie


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> You Might want to consider building this...
> 
> Router Lift
> 
> I did and it works GREAT!!!! Less than $20 bucks in materials


I built that one. Love it. No reaching under. Easy bit change. Micro adjusts. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## ChipperOfWood (Oct 18, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> I built that one. Love it. No reaching under. Easy bit change. Micro adjusts.
> 
> Al
> 
> Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


Beautiful job. I looks like you might have modified the original. Does yours ride on wood rails instead of the steel rods? Your cabinet appears to be all MDF. I am on the fence about that. I love MDF except for the dust. :thumbdown:

I am still trying to figure out how I might be able to change fits from above the top. However I may still do as you did and hinge it. What is your top made of?

Overall I like what you did. Nice job. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Charlie:smile:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

ChipperOfWood said:


> Beautiful job. I looks like you might have modified the original. Does yours ride on wood rails instead of the steel rods? Your cabinet appears to be all MDF. I am on the fence about that. I love MDF except for the dust. :thumbdown:
> 
> I am still trying to figure out how I might be able to change fits from above the top. However I may still do as you did and hinge it. What is your top made of?
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kind words.
I did modify. My thinking was that the movement up and down did not require a bearing type slide. It needs to be tight and rigid. I think the method I used also has no slop and very rigid. Also requires no locking screws to hold it in place. I used 1/4" plate aluminum for the top. I anodized it and it's hard as a rock and slick. Aluminum alone would oxidize and leave black marks on the wood. If I had my first choice for a top it would be Corian. Since the router doesn't hang sagging is not a problem. I never intended to put a slot in it because I almost never use a miter gauge. With a top like this there are better ways to push the wood through than a miter gauge. If you build one, one of the best things about it is bit changes. Nothing makes it easier.

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## ChipperOfWood (Oct 18, 2012)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> You Might want to consider building this...
> 
> Router Lift
> 
> I did and it works GREAT!!!! Less than $20 bucks in materials


What did you get for $20. bucks? Just wondering which material you refer too. Makes no difference because I ordered the bronze bushings and steel rods today. I'll be starting the lift as soon as I complete the new cabinet.

Funny I missed the directions for this in the magazine. I take it. Thanks for the link. I am anxious.

Charlie


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