# Paste Wax



## gtg253r (Feb 4, 2013)

So, I am new to using paste wax. I bought a can of the Minwax Paste Wax yesterday at Ace Hardware. I opened it when I got home (never was in frigid conditions), and it's so hard it's like candle wax.

Is this normal? Or do I need to warm it up somehow? Or is it defective/old and should take it back?


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Most natural waxes melt from solid to liquid in the range of 125F - 145F (50C-60C).
Some petroleum waxes (candles) are harder that that and melt at slightly higher temperatures.
True, sodium stearate is added to make the waxes even harder.
Since you have the stuff at home, try warming it to soften in a shallow bowl of water not over 100F.
Average human body core temperature is 98.6F/37C so the heating isn't excessive. 
= = = 
Waxes crystallize and appear quite dull. The buffing process makes enough friction heating to smear the wax out flat. Like polishing an apple.
I'd like to know how this works out.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I wouldn't put paste wax on bare wood, stained wood, oiled wood, or finished wood. I do wax my vehicles though.









 







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## daveinjersey (Feb 27, 2013)

I'm reluctant to contradict cabinetman, but I'm pretty sure his view isn't universal. I think a lot of people likely use paste wax over finished wood. Bob Flexner certainly speaks well of using it over other finishes in some circumstances (though not best for bare wood).


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

gtg253r said:


> So, I am new to using paste wax. I bought a can of the Minwax Paste Wax yesterday at Ace Hardware. I opened it when I got home (never was in frigid conditions), and it's so hard it's like candle wax.
> 
> Is this normal? Or do I need to warm it up somehow? Or is it defective/old and should take it back?


 I've never used the Mixwax brand so I couldn't say if that was normal or not. I did use a Star brand finishing wax one time and it was pretty hard. I heated it to make it usable. The only other finishing wax I've used is Briwax. It's soft like Johnson's Paste Wax.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

daveinjersey said:


> I'm reluctant to contradict cabinetman, but I'm pretty sure his view isn't universal. I think a lot of people likely use paste wax over finished wood. Bob Flexner certainly speaks well of using it over other finishes in some circumstances (though not best for bare wood).


It's not a matter of contradicting me. I have my ways, likes, and dislikes. Doesn't mean I'm right or wrong, or that anyone has to agree with me. What someone else likes or does, or suggests, is up to them. Doesn't mean that they are right or wrong, or that anyone agrees or not. Everyone is entitled to their opinion.:yes:









 







.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

daveinjersey said:


> I'm reluctant to contradict cabinetman, but I'm pretty sure his view isn't universal. I think a lot of people likely use paste wax over finished wood. Bob Flexner certainly speaks well of using it over other finishes in some circumstances (though not best for bare wood).


 The topic was a wax finish anyway which is different than paste wax. A wax can make a finish just the same as a lot of oil finishes. The Minwax paste finishing wax is suppose to harden as it ages. 

As far as using paste wax on furniture a lot depends on the finish. Waxes are not helpful on urethanes but are good for oil finishes and varnishes. Oil finishes and varnishes will dry out as they age and the waxes moisturize the emulsion. A urethane is a plastic coating which the wax would just sit on the surface.


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## MrRyan (Jan 2, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> It's not a matter of contradicting me. I have my ways, likes, and dislikes. Doesn't mean I'm right or wrong, or that anyone has to agree with me. What someone else likes or does, or suggests, is up to them. Doesn't mean that they are right or wrong, or that anyone agrees or not. Everyone is entitled to their opinion.:yes:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think in the privacy of his own shop, when no one is around, Cabinetman puts together projects with his Kreg pocket hole jig and then slathers paste wax all over the bare wood. It's only his guilt that brings him here to bemoan the use of both! :yes:


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Allow me a bit of latitude here.

We all make projects for friends and family. Some are grateful, some are complementary and some are demanding. 

For the latter group I will finish with Minwax Antique Oil Finish and several coats of Johnsons Paste Wax. Then in about 6-8 months, when I hear the complaint that the project just doesn't "feel" like it used to. I'll explain that the project needs to be waxed with paste wax. (Revenge is sweet.)


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Many of the more modern carvings made by Pacific Northwest natives have the most fantastic glossy (not shiny) finish. Spend 2 days in the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia in Vancouver to see what I mean. Comes in many colors. KIWI Brand paste wax shoe polish. 
I'm about to try a neutral shade on birch as that is the only known method to find out.
Each to their own, one isn't simply "better" than the others.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I finish probably 95% of my turnings with lacquer. But for a few special bowls that I use danish oil on, I'll finish up with a wax. I like this particular product:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2007263/1005/crystal-clear-wax.aspx

Crystal Clear. It goes on easy, dries quickly and leaves a very soft, slick feel. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Paste wax is used by caretakers at the Smithsonian to care for Chippendale furniture. Here is an excerpt from a furniture care document:

"Following simple cleaning, further protection and aesthetic enhancement can be obtained through the
application of a stable, hard furniture polish, such as a hard paste wax. The hard wax surface can be
dusted more easily because it will be more smooth, and the dust will not be imbedded in it as it would in
an unwaxed surface. Waxing need only occur infrequently because the wax itself is not readily removed
and it does not degrade chemically. Waxing too often can result in a built-up, clouded surface.
This simple approach avoids the problems created by popular methods of "furniture polishing" - such as
sprays and oily polishes - that may result in cumulative damage to furniture. Many polishes and residues
continue to be a vexing problem for furniture conservators, as they can build up over time and with
numerous applications, trapping and adhering airborne dirt onto the surface."

Here is the complete article if you are interested.

Also antique English tables were finished with wax only and survived for many hundreds of years and are still finished that way today. Personally I prefer a nice 2k urethane but have no problem using a paste wax to protect the finish. I apply the wax using 0000 steel wool and polish with a clean cotton cloth. (The steel wool won't scratch the surface because you load it with wax and use it just as an applicator. Scotch brite works nicely also)


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## MrRyan (Jan 2, 2012)

So Rick.....is something like Johnstons Paste Wax considered a "hard wax" as mentioned in the article? Or is there a "hard" paste wax out there I'm not aware of? Thanks.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax is what conservators prefer. I find most clear paste waxes are fine for use over a finish. You never want to use a wax made for automotive use it will turn white in the pores. If you are using it solely as a finish I would look into the English waxes designed for that purpose. I think Fiddes makes one for example.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> Is this normal? Or do I need to warm it up somehow? Or is it defective/old and should take it back? 







 

To get back to your question, I would return the wax. It has probably sat around in the store for a long period and the thinner/solvents have evaporated. Get your money back. You would be better off to buy Johnson Wax. Most home centers carry it as do many supermarkets in their floor care section.


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## gtg253r (Feb 4, 2013)

Thank you Howard... I ordered some Briwax too add some tint. I saw an article that mixed Briwax and Johnston's wax and the finish looks great.

Thanks everyone for the intriguing conversation!!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think when you get the Briwax you will find out you don't need to mix paste wax with it. I know a antique dealer that has a 55000 sq ft store that sells mostly pine. They finish all the pine furniture they make with Briwax. What they do is take antique wardrobes from Europe that had walnut veneer on them and put them in a dip stripping tank. The stripper would cause all the veneer to come off leaving a pine cabinet. Then they sand it off and wax it.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> I ordered some Briwax too add some tint.

Be careful with Briwax. It's primary use if for restoration. It contain toluene which can damage newly finished surfaces. It's fine to use when applied directly to wood or a well aged finish. 

Briwax makes a toluene free wax called Briwax 2000. It's a wax that contains a standard thinner. It comes in colors.


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## Dan44356 (May 29, 2013)

gtg253r said:


> So, I am new to using paste wax. I bought a can of the Minwax Paste Wax yesterday at Ace Hardware. I opened it when I got home (never was in frigid conditions), and it's so hard it's like candle wax.
> 
> Is this normal? Or do I need to warm it up somehow? Or is it defective/old and should take it back?



It is normal. We used it in the Marine Corps to wax the tile floors to a mirror finish.

You have to stir it up. The more you stir it, the looser it gets. You can also hold a cigarette lighter under it to warm it if your wrist gets tired of stirring.

I don't condone it, but as crazy as Marines are... I had some that would light the wax on fire to heat it up, then cover it with the lid to smother the flame. This made it easier to mix.

I use the paste wax on firearm stocks routinely over BLO. It works really well to protect them. Takes a while to get rid of the odor though.


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## Pondy (Oct 17, 2018)

I see you resolved the situation, but I would agree with other people's sentiment that paste wax should come out of the package as a paste, not a hard wax. The solvents evaporated. In the future, you may add some mineral spirit to soften it up.


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## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> I've never used the Mixwax brand so I couldn't say if that was normal or not. I did use a Star brand finishing wax one time and it was pretty hard. I heated it to make it usable. The only other finishing wax I've used is Briwax. It's soft like Johnson's Paste Wax.


Minwax is the same as Johnsons Paste Wax. I bet Johnson makes it for them. I have used both.


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