# Jointer adjustment jig?



## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

Sorry, this is a request. 
Has anyone tried this or something similar?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=24438&filter=jointer 

I love working with tools, but this is getting tedious. As you all know, the blade adjustment is super critical, and I was wondering if anyone has used it, and if it works? I hate to spend money on junk, and have literally been spending an hour replacing/adusting my knives each time.
Thanks,
Dave


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I use a 6" round magnet out of an old speaker.

Works great. :thumbsup:

I put a piece of paper between mag and outfeed table, this sets knives just a hair above.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Having done the dial indicator method a few months ago, I wished I used a magnetic jig instead, and will in the future. Whether you buy or make your own, it's the way to go :thumbsup:


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

I brought my Dads jointer to my shop this summer. That "thing" was stuck to the side of the cabinet. Now I know what it is :^) just went out and tried it. It's a lot easier than holding a straight edge on end and making the adjustments.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

I use cow magnets. After all it is Dairy Country here.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i have an aluminum combination square i remove the rule from and place on the outfeed table overhanging the knives. as i rotate the cutterhead, i raise the knives until they just tick the square and move it about 1/8". have to adjust a couple of times to get it exact on both sides of the knife. works well for me, and the aluminum won't hurt the knife edge. i haven't had a jig that works yet.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

That tool from Rockler does the job quite well. Original set up is critical.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I use the same method Tim*



TimPa said:


> i have an aluminum combination square i remove the rule from and place on the outfeed table overhanging the knives. as i rotate the cutterhead, i raise the knives until they just tick the square and move it about 1/8". have to adjust a couple of times to get it exact on both sides of the knife. works well for me, and the aluminum won't hurt the knife edge. i haven't had a jig that works yet.


This thread has photos:http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/honing-jointer-blades-how-10066/  bill


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

*jointer blade*

if you jointer has both bed's that move. Infeed and out feed. Just get them as close as you can than eather drop or raise the outfeed table tell you get a smooth cut all the way across your board. If only infeed table moves. than the blades must be dam near on the money . I sold my jointer that only had the end feed table that moved. Now i have a jointer that both tables that move. So far i haven't moved the out feed table yet. But i bet then i put in knives i will have to move the out feed table.

You can sharpen your blade's in the jointer with out taking them out. That way no down time putting them back in. I done this many time's. Also with my planner . Use a magic marker and darken the blade edge . Now you can see what you are doing. once the black is all gone you are done.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I use the Wixey height gauge. Perfect alignment every time.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Good Video*


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Yep, that is what I do. Just use a different gauge.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

For the old Craftsman I restored, I used a calibrated strait edge to check the infeed outfeed boards. I raised the infeed board so that it was close to the same height as the outfeed. Then I slowly lowered and raised the adjustments to get both tables on the same plane. 

I sharpened the flat surface of the blades with a knife sharpening stone (off of the machine). The infeed table was lowered and the blades set just high enough (on both sides) to touch the strait edge. Then I wrapped a piece of paper around the sharpening stone, and I stoned the blades parallel to the outfeed table. The paper protected the surface of the table. I secured the pulley with a wrench to keep it from moving.

It does pretty good, even with my technique, I can straiten a 3 foot board to within 0.010 inch. I suck on the longer boards, 8 foot, maybe 0.050 inch if I'm lucky. From my experience, your technique makes the difference.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I do this also*

Quote " I sharpened the flat surface of the blades with a knife sharpening stone (off of the machine). The infeed table was lowered and the blades set just high enough (on both sides) to touch the strait edge. Then I wrapped a piece of paper around the sharpening stone, and I stoned the blades parallel to the outfeed table. The paper protected the surface of the table. I secured the pulley with a wrench to keep it from moving."

I use the same technique, my theory is to put a micro bevel on the edge of the blade to increase cutter life. Is that why you do it too? :blink: bill


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## cody.sheridan-2008 (May 23, 2010)

I think "the Wood whisperer" at www.thewoodwhisperer.com has a video on this where he tests several different ways.

Just noticed this is my 100th post yay!


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> Quote " I sharpened the flat surface of the blades with a knife sharpening stone (off of the machine). The infeed table was lowered and the blades set just high enough (on both sides) to touch the strait edge. Then I wrapped a piece of paper around the sharpening stone, and I stoned the blades parallel to the outfeed table. The paper protected the surface of the table. I secured the pulley with a wrench to keep it from moving."
> 
> I use the same technique, my theory is to put a micro bevel on the edge of the blade to increase cutter life. Is that why you do it too? :blink: bill


I figure I can get the blade a tad bit sharper and closer to parallel if I use the above technique. I actually read it somewhere. Its worked well for me.

I might try the indicator technique. I just have to make a holder for it, and keep everything square. The only problem I see with indicator, is that everytime you adjust the blade, you would have to spin the chuck to find the reversal point again. I guess it would just be more time consuming.


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## cody.sheridan-2008 (May 23, 2010)

Here is the link to the video http://thewoodwhisperer.com/jointer-setup/


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## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

Thanks for all information, folks. There are a lot of great ideas here.


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