# Homemade Lathe tools



## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

I am planning to make my own set of carbide tipped tools (similar to easy wood tools). These seem too simple to make to pay the premium price for. I do, however, have a couple questions I am hoping you can help me with.

How much of the bar should go into the tool handle? I plan to make several tools, and multiple handles, but would like the handles to have set screws so I can switch out tools if needed.

My second question is whether or not I should round the part that will be inserted in the handle. I bought 1/2" square stock, and could round the end that goes into the handle, but not sure if one is better/more desirable than the other.

Last, I was curious what are people's preferred tool lengths? Handle length and tool length themselves. I have 10 ft of stock to use, and can buy blanks for handles, so I have options.

I have very little lathe experience, and I know a lot of this is personal preference, but a nudge in the right direction would be a huge help. Thanks!

Dean


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

The full size tools 1/2 square shafts are 12" long with 4" in the handle and 8" exposed. 16" wood handles

The mini 3/8 square shafts are 6" long with 2" in the handle and 4" exposed. 12" wood handles

If you can round the part going in the handle than do it but people don't want to pay for that extra feature since square shaft in round hole works just fine.

Full size uses #8-32 screw
Mini uses #4-40 screw.
Ewt cutters come with these screws so do other ebay sellers and other random suppliers..

I made a few of these tools for my self and others on this forum..  good luck


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

RusDemka said:


> The full size tools 1/2 square shafts are 12" long with 4" in the handle and 8" exposed. 16" wood handles
> 
> The mini 3/8 square shafts are 6" long with 2" in the handle and 4" exposed. 12" wood handles
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info! I saw you have sold some of the ones you make, but I thought I would try my hand at it. I appreciate the help!


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

ddiamondd said:


> Thanks for the info! I saw you have sold some of the ones you make, but I thought I would try my hand at it. I appreciate the help!


No problem. Feel free to contact me if you have questions. We would love to see what you come up with..


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

RusDemka said:


> No problem. Feel free to contact me if you have questions. We would love to see what you come up with..


Once I have some made I will indeed post some pictures. I did buy a set of PSI turning tools, so I will need to use those to turn my first handle. Once I have that, I can make the rest using the carbide tools, so the first one will be a bit of learning process. Can't wait to start turning though. 

Another thing I planned on trying is making my own hollowing system. I build snare drums (one of my favorites seen below)








, and up until now have used a router with a few jigs to round the shells. Now that I have a lathe, I want to turn them and use a hollowing system similar to this one -


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Before you build the captured bar system get back with us. I have built 2 and learned a lot from using them. The biggest thing is you don't need as much space between the main bar and the outrigger. Steve Sinner's rigs have the 2 bars welded together. I made my last one with only 4" between them but that was before I saw Steve's. 
Bar size for the main bar is also important depending on how deep you need to hollow. a 3/4" bar starts chattering pretty bad beyond about 10 or 12" depending on the cutter you use.


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## solidfab (Feb 5, 2013)

I built these four pictured, due to having a smaller lathe I had to have smaller handles. I really really like the longer one as it is solid when reaching into a bowl and getting deep. 

I turned 3in round tangs on mine before gluing them into the handles. 

I agree on making your own if you have the resources. They really aren't that hard to do and I already had the maple, scrap stock and the screws. It basically cost me the cutter to make em. Good luck


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

When I made mine, I stayed w/ square bar stock and just put epoxy in the round holes in the handle. It worked just fine.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/first-homemade-lathe-gouge-19990/


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

GMan2431 said:


> I built these four pictured, due to having a smaller lathe I had to have smaller handles. I really really like the longer one as it is solid when reaching into a bowl and getting deep.
> 
> I turned 3in round tangs on mine before gluing them into the handles.
> 
> ...





phinds said:


> When I made mine, I stayed w/ square bar stock and just put epoxy in the round holes in the handle. It worked just fine.
> 
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/first-homemade-lathe-gouge-19990/


Thanks for the input guys! I can't wait to get these started. The mech shop at my work has a mill I plan to use to cutout a little on the tip for the insert to sit flush in. Good info about the lengths and cutter tips too. Its a shame that site (http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html )doesn't sell round ones as cheap as the square, but this is a good start.


Just curious, but where do you get blanks for the handles? I dont keep wood thick enough to use in my shop, and I just found some red oak and poplar 2x2x24 blanks at lowes, but would love some maple or something exotic once I get some practice in.


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

One more question:

I will buy the square cutters from that site - cant beat that deal. But do you know anywhere I can get similar pricing on the round, triangle, or radius edge square bits? I might just buy the others from Capt Eddie - http://eddiecastelin.com/cutters_only


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

ddiamondd said:


> Thanks for the input guys! I can't wait to get these started. The mech shop at my work has a mill I plan to use to cutout a little on the tip for the insert to sit flush in. Good info about the lengths and cutter tips too. Its a shame that site (http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html )doesn't sell round ones as cheap as the square, but this is a good start.
> 
> Just curious, but where do you get blanks for the handles? I dont keep wood thick enough to use in my shop, and I just found some red oak and poplar 2x2x24 blanks at lowes, but would love some maple or something exotic once I get some practice in.


Lamimation blanks work fine..


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

ddiamondd said:


> One more question:
> 
> I will buy the square cutters from that site - cant beat that deal. But do you know anywhere I can get similar pricing on the round, triangle, or radius edge square bits? I might just buy the others from Capt Eddie - http://eddiecastelin.com/cutters_only


Triangle cutters i have yet to find. But i get cutters from Eddie and on ebay.. They are cheaper from Eddie but not cheaper than from globaltooling..


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

Quick update. Finally got the pieces cut, drilled, tapped, and shaped. I am going to use a mortising chisel to cut square holes in the handles, but I hope to have completed tools soon! I will have round, triangle, square, and radius edge square tools. Is there any benefit to cutting a small recess in the top of the tool for the cutting bit to sit into? I would prefer to leave them as is...because I am lazy...but if there is a perk I am unaware of I will make it happen.


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

ddiamondd said:


> Quick update. Finally got the pieces cut, drilled, tapped, and shaped. I am going to use a mortising chisel to cut square holes in the handles, but I hope to have completed tools soon! I will have round, triangle, square, and radius edge square tools. Is there any benefit to cutting a small recess in the top of the tool for the cutting bit to sit into? I would prefer to leave them as is...because I am lazy...but if there is a perk I am unaware of I will make it happen.
> 
> http://s749.photobucket.com/user/ddiamondd/media/photo4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s749.photobucket.com/user/ddiamondd/media/photo3-1.jpg.html


The recess keeps the cutters square to he shaft and gives the cutter a flat face to sit on. I have had them crack and break before I cut the recess.. If your going to sell them I recommend u cut the recess and at the same height as the ewt tools. People don't like to re adjust the tools rest height when changing cutter type... Just my input


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

RusDemka said:


> The recess keeps the cutters square to he shaft and gives the cutter a flat face to sit on. I have had them crack and break before I cut the recess.. If your going to sell them I recommend u cut the recess and at the same height as the ewt tools. People don't like to re adjust the tools rest height when changing cutter type... Just my input


Thank you sir. Your opinion is indeed one I will take into consideration. I am, however, going to try and turn something with the tools as they are now, and see how they work. If need be, I will bring them to work tomorrow and cut a recess on the mill. I do not intend to sell these, so if they work for my use, I may just leave them be. Thanks!


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Your cutters are going to move on the shaft without a recess to hold them. Also and this is just a personal thing, but I started with traditional tools and got into a habit of running my thumb up the flute to clear chips from the tool. My first carbide tool was one that I made myself. The insert sat just proud of the shaft. First time I used my thumb to wipe it off I got a nice cut on my thumb. A brand new EWT cutter will lay you open like a razor. I now use a set of Rus's tools and his sit flush but I had to break that habit.


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

BassBlaster said:


> Your cutters are going to move on the shaft without a recess to hold them. Also and this is just a personal thing, but I started with traditional tools and got into a habit of running my thumb up the flute to clear chips from the tool. My first carbide tool was one that I made myself. The insert sat just proud of the shaft. First time I used my thumb to wipe it off I got a nice cut on my thumb. A brand new EWT cutter will lay you open like a razor. I now use a set of Rus's tools and his sit flush but I had to break that habit.


Lol.. Been there done that...


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## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

*Handles*

I've made a dozen handles from fallen limbs I found in the woods. Spalted maple makes a very pretty handle. Oak, hickory, even sweet gum works well too.


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

Good to know about the handles. 

I used the mill at work to cut a recess in the tools today, and, finally, I have made my first cuts EVER on a lathe! It's nothing to brag about, but I started to turn a test handle from a poplar blank I had laying around. Needless to say, I am hooked. Can't wait to get going on more projects!


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

Okay, first handle finished! I wasn't planning to use the poplar as a handle, but I think it will work just fine. The tool didn't go as far into the handle as I wanted, but for a first try, I am pleased. 13" handle with 10" of tool.


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## nmacdonald (Jan 13, 2012)

Looks good!


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

And another one. Oak this time.


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

So a friend of mine is getting into metal work and offered to make me a shield for the tools. Cut a piece of acrylic on the laser cutter for it and wow, what a great feature. Really keeps the wood chips from flying directly back at me when turning.


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

ddiamondd said:


> Good to know about the handles.
> 
> I used the mill at work to cut a recess in the tools today, and, finally, I have made my first cuts EVER on a lathe! It's nothing to brag about, but I started to turn a test handle from a poplar blank I had laying around. Needless to say, I am hooked. Can't wait to get going on more projects!
> 
> ...


Can I point out a few things about your new tools. As you can see in your Pic, your chips are very small and dusty and the surface left behind is rough(Scraped) requiring some work with some large grit sandpaper.

If you were to do this same work with a Roughing Gouge with the bevel rubbing as it should, the work surface would be smooth and burnished and you would have shavings in the form of curls like you get when you use a hand plain (cutting wood the way it prefers to be cut) and sanding would start with a much finer grit (180 or so) All saving time....

Make sure you try both tool types.

Nice job on the handles regardless of the tools used.
Remember, turn safe....


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

Syd Sellers said:


> Can I point out a few things about your new tools. As you can see in your Pic, your chips are very small and dusty and the surface left behind is rough(Scraped) requiring some work with some large grit sandpaper.
> 
> If you were to do this same work with a Roughing Gouge with the bevel rubbing as it should, the work surface would be smooth and burnished and you would have shavings in the form of curls like you get when you use a hand plain (cutting wood the way it prefers to be cut) and sanding would start with a much finer grit (180 or so) All saving time....
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input. I initially wanted to try both kinds of tools (traditional and carbide tipped), but there were a few benefits to these tools I saw:

The cost of traditional tools as well as a sharpening system for them was much higher. As well as the learning curve to use and sharpen them. 

I would love to learn to use them at some point, but I am too obsessed with instant gratification to care for now. They do what I need and were very inexpensive to make. 

As far as the dust goes, I can indeed get the nice ribbons coming off the work piece. I used the round cutter at an angle to get a shear cut that left some dust. Are you saying there should never be dust?

I am still VERY new to turning so forgive my ignorance.

EDIT: I see the pic you were referring to. That was the first thing I ever turned, and I have already improved my technique to get nice shavings off of bowls and what not. That was a cheap piece of poplar that splintered and was not nice to work with. The last few walnut bowls have had nice long ribbons coming off of them.


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## Syd Sellers (Feb 2, 2013)

ddiamondd said:


> Thanks for the input. I initially wanted to try both kinds of tools (traditional and carbide tipped), but there were a few benefits to these tools I saw:
> 
> The cost of traditional tools as well as a sharpening system for them was much higher. As well as the learning curve to use and sharpen them.
> 
> ...


Right on, enjoy...


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

This is an interesting thread, as I like making my own tools sometimes. Curious though, what is the use of a square nosed lathe tool other than as a scraper for tenons? And where do you get the rounded cutters from?


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

Maylar said:


> This is an interesting thread, as I like making my own tools sometimes. Curious though, what is the use of a square nosed lathe tool other than as a scraper for tenons? And where do you get the rounded cutters from?


I use the square cutter for rounding spindles, shaping the tops of bowls, as well as tenons. I'm sure there are more uses but thats all I have used them for so far. I order the round ones from capt eddie (http://eddiecastelin.com/cutters_only)


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## bandman (Jan 15, 2009)

*Lathe tools*

Looking good, you are going to love your new tools and turning wood too. I'd like to make a suggestion; since you say you are new to turning I would like to suggest that you place your tool rest as close to the turning as possible. The picture you show of the handle being turned scares me....you could easily catch the end of a carbide chisel tip in between your tool rest and the spinning wood. You will notice a BIG difference if you keep your tool rest 1/8" away from your wood when possible.

Best of luck,

Bandman


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

bandman said:


> Looking good, you are going to love your new tools and turning wood too. I'd like to make a suggestion; since you say you are new to turning I would like to suggest that you place your tool rest as close to the turning as possible. The picture you show of the handle being turned scares me....you could easily catch the end of a carbide chisel tip in between your tool rest and the spinning wood. You will notice a BIG difference if you keep your tool rest 1/8" away from your wood when possible.
> 
> Best of luck,
> 
> Bandman


Thanks for the tip!


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## Ogee (Feb 21, 2014)

Here's a pair of tools I made out of 3/8" hexagonal stock. I only have a midi, hence small tools. The recess was easy to cut with a 1" bench top belt sander.


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

I just made a couple tools out of 1/2 round oil hard drill rod. I plan on hardening it after I machine it. Hopefully it will hold an edge longer. I'm a little concerned about using round stock now. Maybe I should have used square or rectangle stock.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ogee, very nice job.

Tewitt1949, Maybe you can grind some flat areas on the round shafts. Sure would help with holding on the rest. IMO

Dale in Indy


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

ddiamondd 
As had been pointed out , 
you are courting danger with the misplacement of your toolrest .

Before you go much further with woodturning , you would be well advised to take some lessons , in a club or one on one.
There you will learn the basics , with safety uppermost 

cheers , 
Jock


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

So as I've investigated these carbide tipped tools, I've found a few different shapes of cutters and two sizes of shafts that are popular. I'm interested to know from people who actually use them what you use most often.

I've seen round cutters (Ci0, Ci3) for a "finisher". Also square and radiused (Ci1, Ci2) for a "rougher". The radius can be 2" or 4", though I haven't seen radiused Ci2 ecxept from EWT. There are also square inserts with or without relieved corners to fit the Ci1 and Ci2, and finally a diamond shape with rounded ends for a "detailer"

I have some square steel stock comming and I need to buy cutters, so I'm looking for recommendations on which shapes and sizes are most useful.

TIA


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## solidfab (Feb 5, 2013)

I use all three finisher sizes, a 12mm rougher and also made one for the detailer. I use them all and,plan on making a smaller set for pens and so forth


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## ddiamondd (Apr 25, 2013)

Yeah I use the square, round, and triangle. They all come in handy. I also plan to order some of the radius square.


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