# building a new shop?



## thor54 (Jan 15, 2010)

I am planning to build a new shop this Spring. I am debating a wood framed floor vs a floating concrete slab. My thought is a wood framed floor will be cheaper, as I can do the construction myself. For a 16 foot span I am thinking of 2 X 10's 12" o.c. with a 3/4 inch T & G plywood floor. Any thoughts pro or con will be much appreciated.


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## garryswf (Aug 17, 2009)

Thor,
Everything you mentioned sounds good with the exception of one thing you didn't mention. With all the weight you will have in the center of this shop (TS and maybe a Jointer) make sure you put extra support in that area. Myself i would opt for 2x12 joists JMO


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You should consult a structural table*

For joist size and span. From what I read you are on the ragged edge for that span for a 2 x 10. (16'8"span 12" OC, live load 50# per sq ft) My shop has 2 x 12 on 16" centers with a 14' span. It's very rigid and I try to locate the heavier tools over the steel beams underneath when possible. Just make sure that you have enough support.If you can run a beam down the center you'll never regret it. :thumbsup: bill
BTW a lot depends on the actual species of the material as for it's strength, doug fir being one of the strongest.


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## thor54 (Jan 15, 2010)

Thanks garryswf and woodthings. I could pull support beams in 2 ft from each side. Cantilevering 2' on each side would reduce the span to 12. Will 3/4" ply on the floor joist 12" oc support TS, Drill press etc w/o substancial bow?


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## Johnny Yuma (Jul 14, 2009)

What I did for my floor was to pour 2-3" of pea stone on the ground, lay 2x4's-on the flat-12" on center, on top of the pea stone. Then I filled in between each 2x4 with pea stone, put down a vapor barrier then run 3/4" t&g plywood.

I can't tell you how happy I am with this floor.
It is SOLID yet soft on my feet, quiet and a lot warmer then concrete.

I am a certified wood foundation installer, and this is one of the techniques I have learned and used through the years.

It's a super easy, DIY floor you can put into just about any out-building. The only thing YOU HAVE TO DO is have some sort of rat-wall/ barrier to keep the pea stone from squishing out from under the floor.

Pea stone is non-compressible and spreads out weight enough that it won't sink into the worst soils (I think up to 2000#/sq.ft.).


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## thor54 (Jan 15, 2010)

thanks j yuma. that is a novel idea. I'll give that some thought. this is my first experience on this site. It's great.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Wood floors are nice since you live where its cold. That cold concrete really freezes you out from the feet up. 

I'd use 2x12s and put in some posts to support the middle. Check the local classifieds for some steel beams. A single steel beam down the middle will give you an 8' span. 

The hillbilly solution is to just sink posts into the ground throughout the middle and cut them off flush with the floor joists with a chainsaw. Ive built many a barn floor using this technique. Primitive, but effective.


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## garryswf (Aug 17, 2009)

thor54 said:


> Thanks garryswf and woodthings. I could pull support beams in 2 ft from each side. Cantilevering 2' on each side would reduce the span to 12. Will 3/4" ply on the floor joist 12" oc support TS, Drill press etc w/o substancial bow?


Thor54,
Anything you can do to eliminate "ANY" bow in the floor should be your main objective. Consider this example, you set the TS in the center of the shop with long rails with support legs and have it setup to be level and true. After a period of time things settle just alittle, getting what i mean. Good support down the center now is easier to accomplish then later. JMO


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*I'm jealous*



Johnny Yuma said:


> What I did for my floor was to pour 2-3" of pea stone on the ground, lay 2x4's-on the flat-12" on center, on top of the pea stone. Then I filled in between each 2x4 with pea stone, put down a vapor barrier then run 3/4" t&g plywood.
> 
> I can't tell you how happy I am with this floor.
> It is SOLID yet soft on my feet, quiet and a lot warmer then concrete.
> ...


Man am I jeaous.
Can't do that down here in Texas. Darn pesky termites would eat it up in a year. :thumbdown:


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

might consider doubling up on the floor thickness for point loads.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Some of the barns I have seen up here they use rough sawn 2x lumber for the flooring. It's not that expensive when bought from a local mill. Same stuff they sell for decking equipment trailers. Usually oak. Nice and solid.
Mike Hawkins:smile:



jlhaslip said:


> might consider doubling up on the floor thickness for point loads.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

firehawkmph said:


> Some of the barns I have seen up here they use rough sawn 2x lumber for the flooring. It's not that expensive when bought from a local mill. Same stuff they sell for decking equipment trailers. Usually oak. Nice and solid.
> Mike Hawkins:smile:


Yes, sawmill lumber will make a sturdy floor, but I wouldn't want to use it in a shop because after it dries, you will have a quarter inch gap between boards and the boards themselves will have the tendency to cup unless you nail the fire out of them.


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## thor54 (Jan 15, 2010)

Thank you all once again: This site is great. So many good ideas, i'm more fired up than ever to move my shop out of the basement and into the "mancave" i'll have to post some pictures of my work. I do alot of mission style furniture.


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## John in Tennessee (Jun 11, 2008)

*Here Comes My Ole Fart Practicality*

If your close to building it slow down and get a few more bucks. I know if I was building it would be my dream shop. Your going to be in it for a long time build it big enough and right don't cut corners. BTW don't forget a overhead door or a double style.
It'll make it moving big stuff in and out.


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## Ogee Fillet (Aug 20, 2009)

Johnny Yuma said:


> What I did for my floor was to pour 2-3" of pea stone on the ground, lay 2x4's-on the flat-12" on center, on top of the pea stone. Then I filled in between each 2x4 with pea stone, put down a vapor barrier then run 3/4" t&g plywood.
> 
> I can't tell you how happy I am with this floor.
> It is SOLID yet soft on my feet, quiet and a lot warmer then concrete.
> ...


 

Very interesting
I have a small shop that has compacted #8 lime stone as a floor. Was thinking about putting in a concrete floor this spring. Would much rather have wood. Rebel, do you have any links to this type of construction?
If this works for you in S.E. Michigan it should work for me in N.W. Ohio. Thanks


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## Johnny Yuma (Jul 14, 2009)

Ogee Fillet said:


> Very interesting
> I have a small shop that has compacted #8 lime stone as a floor. Was thinking about putting in a concrete floor this spring. Would much rather have wood. Rebel, do you have any links to this type of construction?
> If this works for you in S.E. Michigan it should work for me in N.W. Ohio. Thanks


This system works just about anywhere in the country.

Here is a link for more info.
Permanent wood foundations


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Rebel*

Your link "page was not found" Is this the site?
http://www.woodfoundation.com/ 
I see an 810 area code. Lapeer, Macomb Co. ?
I'm near Lake Orion myself.  bill


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## Johnny Yuma (Jul 14, 2009)

Try this 
http://www.southernpine.com/pwf.shtml


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## Ogee Fillet (Aug 20, 2009)

*Very Cool*

Thanks a lot Johnny
The added (link) info pretty much sold me on this method of floor construction. 
I think it would be an ideal way to get a wooden floor in my little shop. 
Cost wise, I’m looking at a savings of about 30% possibly a little more. Now that is a sweet deal if I ever seen one.
Thanks


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## flor1 (Jan 21, 2010)

Your in MN I see whatever type of building you put up you'll need footers below the frost line. For me I'd have a concrete floor there you can always have a heated floor put in when you build friend of mine did it with a wood burning stove worked great.


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## thor54 (Jan 15, 2010)

Thanks A Lot!!!! So much information. bookmarked the span table page. NOw my question is what live load calculation should I use for a wood shop. I think I'll start a new thread and see what I can find out.


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## Johnny Yuma (Jul 14, 2009)

Ogee Fillet said:


> Thanks a lot Johnny
> The added (link) info pretty much sold me on this method of floor construction.
> I think it would be an ideal way to get a wooden floor in my little shop.
> Cost wise, I’m looking at a savings of about 30% possibly a little more. Now that is a sweet deal if I ever seen one.
> Thanks


I think you will be very pleased.
Not only is it the best floor for a shop (IMO), but as you noted it is cheap. Pretty easy too.


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