# raised grain on cutting boards



## indychips (Jan 9, 2012)

I have had a request from a local winery to make some cheese boards for their wine shop. They did not want the expense of end grain cutting boards, so they opted for some edge grain boards. I typically sand my cutting boards to 400 grit and then apply several coats of mineral oil. 

Use and care instructions come with every board I make and it says in big bold letters "DO NOT SOAK IN WATER or USE IN DISHWASHER". However, even with a little water used just to wipe clean, this raises the wood grain. I explain to my customers that all wood when wet will have the grain raised a bit. That's the nature of wood.

Is there anything I can do, finishes I can use to slow down or prevent the grain from raising? Would there be a problem with soaking the wood, let dry completely, then resanding before applying the finish? 

I have read several posts related to cutting board finishes. But none of them mention raising of the grain.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I don't know that I'd soak them, but you could certainly wet them down and re-sand when dry before finishing. I also personally would stop sanding at 180-220 grit, it is a cutting board after all :laughing:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

+1 for NOT soaking. Too much moisture can result in expansion and the glue joints giving way.

It is common to wipe a surface with a wet cloth to raise the grain prior to using water based finished. This is really a wiping action. Not trying to get much moisture, just superficial.

The wood is then lightly sanded before applying the water based finish.

You did not state the wood of construction. I rarely have issues with raising e.g., maple, but some other woods do raise the grain.

It is unusual for a face or edge grain board finished with mineral oil to exhibit grain raising.

You could switch to a wax finish. This may be better to prevent raised grain - for awhile.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2021064/24112/Georges-Club-House-Wax-4-oz.aspx

If this is an issue for the customer, plan "B" would be to use a hard coat like a Salad Bowl finish.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000752/9151/general-finishes-salad-bowl-finish-quart.aspx

If you go for changing to either of these, you will need to clean up as much of the oil as possible. Start with mineral spirits to dissolve as much as you can. If you sand the oiled surface the paper will get gummed up very fast. DAMHIKT


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## HollyC (Jan 31, 2019)

I make walnut live edge charcuterie boards and have tried a multitude of things to keep the grain from raising after washing. Haven't found the answer yet. I sand only to 180 because i don't want to close the pores from accepting the beeswax finish i apply with a polisher. I have also tried wetting first before finishing. I use Boos cutting board oil on my cutting boards (maple and walnut mix) and i have the same result. I see online that many are experiencing the same problem and some are even sanding all the way to 600 grit. I don't want to have to tell my clients they have to sand their boards before conditioning so there HAS to be an answer somewhere? Help! Are there any other recommendations for other products or application? Thanks!


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## imknotsquare (Mar 8, 2015)

I've seen some nice Cutting boards. Too nice to cut on. Doesnt that damage /scratch the board?
I know that's the purpose of the board, but it's a shame too


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## Brian T (Nov 3, 2018)

The wood surface was shredded to smithereenes. That's what sand paper does.
Big shreds, little shreds, always shreds. Fact. You can't use sandpapers and avoid shreds.



Two fixes:
1. Finish the surfaces with cabinet scrapers. They cut wood fiber. Fact of anatomy.
I make my own cabinet scrapers from the hard steel used as lumber strapping.
You will find easy-to-follow instructions for scrapers in Leonard Lee's book = all of Chapter 11.
Not opinions, real pictures.


2. Use *** coarse steel wool. The strands are flat, not fine and round. Fact.
A 'bun' of that stuff cuts like a million chisels to take off the mess left by sandpapers.
Fine steel wool does break up. I don't care about fine steel wool = useless.
Bulldog Brand X-coarse (or whatever it's called in this day and time) works extremely well on wood carving curved surfaces.
OR, I wouldn't waste the time to describe how well it works.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

indychips said:


> I have had a request from a local winery to make some cheese boards for their wine shop. They did not want the expense of end grain cutting boards, so they opted for some edge grain boards. I typically sand my cutting boards to 400 grit and then apply several coats of mineral oil.
> 
> Use and care instructions come with every board I make and it says in big bold letters "DO NOT SOAK IN WATER or USE IN DISHWASHER". However, even with a little water used just to wipe clean, this raises the wood grain. I explain to my customers that all wood when wet will have the grain raised a bit. That's the nature of wood.
> 
> ...


As you are sanding up to 400 grit when you change grits if you would wet the wood and raise the grain it wouldn't raise near as much when you get done with it. About the only thing that can be done on a cutting board that is used is to sand it a little every time the board is re-oiled.


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

Have you tried a walnut oil finish? (Salad oil section of the supermarket) It kind of cures and tends to keep the water out. 

BTW - If it is a commercial establishment serving food, there are requirements that make washing mandatory.


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## justdraftn (Feb 20, 2019)

NoThankyou said:


> Have you tried a walnut oil finish? (Salad oil section of the supermarket) It kind of cures and tends to keep the water out.
> 
> BTW - If it is a commercial establishment serving food, there are requirements that make washing mandatory.


I use walnut oil on kitchen spoons and such. Works very well.

Not to hijack this thread....BUT....

What kind of glue do folks use for cutting boards?


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

justdraftn said:


> I use walnut oil on kitchen spoons and such. Works very well.
> 
> Not to hijack this thread....BUT....
> 
> What kind of glue do folks use for cutting boards?


I use Titebond III. It is strong and waterproof and food safe when cured. I bet that it is the choice of most woodworkers for cutting boards. 

Titebond II is also strong, water resistant, and food safe. Some people use it for cutting boards, but I suspect that most people prefer Titebond III for its "waterproof" rating.


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## Brian T (Nov 3, 2018)

Oven-baked veg oil finish done at 325F. Take advantage of Charles' Law of Physics.
No argument, no dispute, absolutely predicable results. You cannot possibly wash it out.
I carved 70 spoons and 30 forks in birch. One treatment for 3 minutes 30 seconds and my carvings are finished
for a lifetime of service in boiling liquids.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

indychips said:


> I have had a request from a local winery to make some cheese boards for their wine shop. They did not want the expense of end grain cutting boards, so they opted for some edge grain boards. I typically sand my cutting boards to 400 grit and then apply several coats of mineral oil.
> 
> Use and care instructions come with every board I make and it says in big bold letters "DO NOT SOAK IN WATER or USE IN DISHWASHER". However, even with a little water used just to wipe clean, this raises the wood grain. I explain to my customers that all wood when wet will have the grain raised a bit. That's the nature of wood.
> 
> ...


Hi Indychips,

I won't do one of my long posts on this topic unless you ask for more information from me. I have and still make professional abattoir, and related "high end" kitchen food prep and traditional butcher block...My posts here on the forum regarding this subject seem to either "annoy" some forum members and/or is counter to certain commonly held "beliefs and feelings," so I won't go past this point unless you ask for more...

1. *I do not use of ever recommend the use of an "mineral oil" based products* (no matter the common belief and like for them...:|) on any of my professional products that I facilitate. This...is not...a traditional finish for them (irregardless of the advertising hype out there) nor do many (not all) Chef's condone the practice themselves. *Walnut oil and coconut oil are the first two primaries and olive oil the close third*...among other traditional "food grade" finishes blended in depending on the project...

2. * I second Brian T.'s advise...X2!!! * Even if you "wet polish sand" (like I do on some projects) up to 10µ (~2000 grit) grain can still raise. 

The only addition I would add to his post is trying to learn about "glass scrapers" and the finish they can leave on wood.



NoThankyou said:


> ...BTW - If it is a commercial establishment serving food, there are requirements that make washing mandatory.


3. If the charcuterie and related cutting boards/blocks are of the smaller size...and for "commercial use" ...*.they should be able to stand up to dishwasher cleaning and/or commercial steam sterilizers...at least quarterly per annum...*as this is a requirement by many (most actually?) of all Health Departments, FDA and related organization. Regulation can very, but insurance companies the cover restaurants, bakeries, abattoir, and related food prep facilities are even getting involved in this matter now...

*Yes...if they are designed and built correctly....*they should be able to be placed in a warm water (even soaked in a warm solution of "lime and white vinegar" for a few minutes) after each evening shift to clean, sterilize and "sweeten" before the client/proprietor or kitchen staff reapply the "maintenance finish" recommend with your product. This can actually suffice in satisfying not going into "dishwasher or sterilizer" for many health departments as it acts as a "chemical sterilization." 

:laugh2:...Let me know if you would like me to expand on anything...otherwise good luck...!!!

j


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

This thread was created 2012 and Indy last time posting was 2015.....MAYBE ok to talk to the others BUT I HOPE he's done got past this issue.....:surprise2::wink::crying2::sad2:

I've done it TOO before....WE can laugh together on this one!!!:vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


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## Brian T (Nov 3, 2018)

Yes. Very cheesy. I didn't look at the dates.
But the info is still good. Wooden cutting boards will be made for a long time and the finishing question
always comes up like acid indigestion.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

I too did not look at the date...!!!???

I just got an update for a "new posting" for it...Which is weird, as I never commented or bookmarked it?

Oh well...Still good info as Brian T. suggested...


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## Echo415 (Apr 3, 2018)

Jay C. White Cloud said:


> I too did not look at the date...!!!???
> 
> I just got an update for a "new posting" for it...Which is weird, as I never commented or bookmarked it?
> 
> Oh well...Still good info as Brian T. suggested...


I got baited on an old thread a few days ago...something weird going on with the forum.


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## jamesgang (Dec 18, 2021)

35015 said:


> Hi Indychips,
> 
> I won't do one of my long posts on this topic unless you ask for more information from me. I have and still make professional abattoir, and related "high end" kitchen food prep and traditional butcher block...My posts here on the forum regarding this subject seem to either "annoy" some forum members and/or is counter to certain commonly held "beliefs and feelings," so I won't go past this point unless you ask for more...
> 
> ...


The points you have made make perfect sense. I have recently made a few walnut knife handles to some new knives so we can get rid of some of the junk ones in the kitchen. I used multiple coats of a beeswax/mineral oil finish. There are too many opinions on the internet, but this seemed one seemed to have enough believers to convince me it would work well. 
My wife just used the first one, a paring knife. When done she wet it wiped it clean and dried it and asked why the grain raised so much. It was done under hot running water and it took her less than 30 seconds. As I'm writing this it has dried and is smoother than when wet but still rougher than when I finished it. I sanded these down to 400. There must be a better way?? What would you suggest?


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