# Delta unisaw



## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

An ad in my local paper has an older Delta unisaw which needs some tlc for $425, or $500 with a new "in the box" mobile base. I haven't looked at it yet, but was wondering if it would be worth taking a look at. If the "tlc" is only some light rust removal I don't mind. If I do go to see it what should I be looking for as to condition and accessories? Also, what horse power motor should it have?

Thanks in advance

Gerry


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

there is one listed in the Portland Craigslist right now that doesn't need TLC - 3hp, for $1500.00 

there is also a 1949 restored Unisaw listed for $1200.00


I'd say it is worth taking a look at to see when they mean by TLC


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

As long as the arbor isnt bent and the motor still turns i would be looking at it


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Gerry, 
I don't remember all the motor options for the unisaws, but most of the ones I have seen came with at least a 3hp motor. My buddy bought one new 30 years ago and his has a 3hp. If I remember right, then you could go up from there to a 5hp, single phase, three phase, etc. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Thank you gentlemen.
I had absolutely no idea what a used unisaw might be worth, and now I do. I will give the owner a call and arrange to go see it if he still has it. This is a pretty sleepy little town, so it is probably still there.

Thanks again

Gerry


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*From the net:
What you should look for is a newer saw (the last 20 years or so counts as newer for unisaws), one that has a three horsepower, single phase motor. There are also some units that were built for a time using the one and one-half and two horsepower motors. Make sure that the motors turn at 3450 RPM, not the older 1725 RPM. Check the fence and make sure it slides easily and is true. Look underneath and check for rust on the gear racks ant other moving parts. Some light rust is ok, but it should be able to be removed easily. Check the angle and elevation gear rack and worm gears for excessive wear. Look at the inside left rear trunnion support ( a weak spot) to check for breakage. Check the table for rust or pits. Light rust is OK, it can be removed. The alignment of the blade to the table is not important if it is off a little, it can easily be adjusted. Make sure it cranks up and down and tilts easily. Be sure all the accessories ( motor cover, dust door, extension wings etc) are with it, as they can be expensive to replace. Make sure the proper electrical controls are there and working. They can also be expensive to replace or repair. Run the machine ( without a blade!) and listen for any excessive vibration. If found, loosen or remove the drive belts to localize the noise. If it is still noisy after removing the belts, the motor probably needs to be rebuild. If not then it’s the arbor assembly or the belts causing the noise, and will have to be replaced or rebuilt. If you still want the saw, use these points to bargain with.
*


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

I have one of the 1.5 HP unisaws and there is nothing wrong with it. I will put it up against a new 3 hp any day. There was never a "bad" model Unisaw made. There are some that are damaged of misused but they never made a bad model.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

I went to look at the saw yesterday, and it appears to be in decent condition. I have not tried it out, as it is tucked away, and the guy has had a recent hernia operation. He figures it is about 1980. He has had it for about 25 years. He upgraded a while back to a brand new Delta saw. I think he called it a T-max. It is beautiful, and came with a Beismeyer rip fence, and three hp motor.
The old uni-saw comes with a standard for the era rip fence, which he says is "so so", a steel miter gage, a blade guard and wrench. It could use a little cleaning up, but is not rusty or damaged appearing. I was a little disappointed when I asked about the motor, which he replied was a 1-1/2 HP, 220 volt, single phase unit. He told me the reason he decide to upgrade was that if he was doing repeated heavy cuts in 2x material the thermal cutout would shut off after several cuts.

As I mentioned, his asking price is $425, or $500 with the mobile base. He has indicated that he is negotiable within reason, as he feels his aking price is quite reasonable. 

My heavy contractor saw has a 1-1/2 Hp motor, and I thought I would be able to increase my ripping capacity with the unisaw if it had a three hp motor, so I am wondering if it is worthwhile for me to buy this saw.
I realise that the older motors are much stronger than simlarly rated newer motors. Has anyone else had issues with their thermal cutout under heavy load, and can it be cured. Would a slightly smaller drive pulley help?

If you guys feel this is a worthwhile investment I will go back and see the guy and pull it out for a test run.

Thanks again for all your input.

Gerry


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Using a good rip blade for heavier stock may give better performance to the smaller motor. I've used contractor saws with 1 1/2 HP motors and if necessary you could go to a 10T or a 24T to do the job. I've had good luck with a 32T.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> *From the net:*
> *What you should look for is a newer saw (the last 20 years or so counts as newer for unisaws), one that has a three horsepower, single phase motor. There are also some units that were built for a time using the one and one-half and two horsepower motors. Make sure that the motors turn at 3450 RPM, not the older 1725 RPM. Check the fence and make sure it slides easily and is true. Look underneath and check for rust on the gear racks ant other moving parts. Some light rust is ok, but it should be able to be removed easily. Check the angle and elevation gear rack and worm gears for excessive wear. Look at the inside left rear trunnion support ( a weak spot) to check for breakage. Check the table for rust or pits. Light rust is OK, it can be removed. The alignment of the blade to the table is not important if it is off a little, it can easily be adjusted. Make sure it cranks up and down and tilts easily. Be sure all the accessories ( motor cover, dust door, extension wings etc) are with it, as they can be expensive to replace. Make sure the proper electrical controls are there and working. They can also be expensive to replace or repair. Run the machine ( without a blade!) and listen for any excessive vibration. If found, loosen or remove the drive belts to localize the noise. If it is still noisy after removing the belts, the motor probably needs to be rebuild. If not then it’s the arbor assembly or the belts causing the noise, and will have to be replaced or rebuilt. If you still want the saw, use these points to bargain with.*


My wifes uncle has one of the originals over 60 yrs old it was his fathers saw and now he has it. That saw only has a 3/4 hp motor but the motor is almost twice the size of my new 3 hp motor. It cuts like hell though.


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

Sounds like a good deal to me, if I needed/wanted one I would probably buy that one. Of course keep in mind I am not looking at it either. But it sounds very reasonably priced to me, assuming it is complete and not damaged.

Swapping motors isn't a big deal but if you have to buy a new motor it can be pricey. Used ones are around if you shop. But I am betting he was using the wrong and probably a dull bade too. I agree with the correct blade for the cut you will probably be happy with it. Thinner kerf blades help too. I wouldn't let the 1.5 hp stop me.

FWIW, others will disagree I am sure but an 80's motor is not going to noticably different than a new one. It's still a capacitor start motor. If you go back to the 50's and earlier you get into the R/I motors. A 1.5 hp motor was still 1.5 hp but they did have more torque from what I read and my '46 model with a 1.5 HP R/I has never let me down.

A lot of people don't like the old tube fence, but they work just fine. That one is new enough to be a Jet Lock and I have always heard about the rubber bushing that wears out inside and will give you problem with it locking down right. But the repair is simple and dirt cheap. They are not as nice as a Bessy fence by any means. But they work just fine, just not as smooth or nice to use. So don't assume it is junk, you might find it's just fine. I never swapped mine out.

One last thing. Once you use a cabinet saw, you will never want to go back to a Contractors saw. It might not cut wood any better, smoother or anything else. But there is something about using one that is just more pleasurable.


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## IAMAFREEMAN (Mar 9, 2017)

Kudzu, You must live south of the Mason-Dixon! How al you ole boys doing? I haven't been south since 1990 building the new paper mill outside Augusta.

I am putting an old 34-761 back together; inherited it Nothing wrong but someone cranked up the riser piece until it cracked right at the bore. Going to see how much $$$ to weld - and possibly true up the bore, but as an old B&S machinist I think it can be welded and still be true. Hell's Belles, it doesn't spin on the shaft so a few thousands of an inch ought'n to hurt nothing!

You think the older 1.5 hp is better than the newer 3hps? I know they are rated differently from the old days.

Don't know what year mine is; maybe the Co can tell me from the serial #. Don't care except for parts and curiousity.

IAMAFREEMAN


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> *From the net:
> What you should look for is a newer saw (the last 20 years or so counts as newer for unisaws), one that has a three horsepower, single phase motor. There are also some units that were built for a time using the one and one-half and two horsepower motors. Make sure that the motors turn at 3450 RPM, not the older 1725 RPM.
> *
> 
> ...


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## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

I've had two Unisaws. A 3 hp that was underpowered for my use and a 5hp. OK saws but they had a poor design on the way the tilt would trap sawdust. Employees would keep turning the handle when the dust was packed in and break the front trunion. A lot of Unisaws and Powermatics are being replaced in commercial shops and schools because the SawStops are so much safer, and better designed (liability & insurance!) Check with industrial machinery sales places for used saws. I've seen a lot of them go for $550 +-. If the saw you looked at has the original "jet" rip fence you will probably want to up grade to the newer style fence. The newer fence will have a sliding aluminum fence that can be set either upright or flat ways allowing thin materials to be ripped without binding under the upright fence. Thin things like plastic laminates are laid on top of the thin part of the fence so they don't bind.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

I agree with most said. 1 1/2 hp unisaw running on 120v, I use it extensively.. would likely run better if rewired for 220, I know its limits. just lazy I guess. I have the jet lock rip fence, and am able to keep it tuned to match any aftermarket. 


my shop at work, 3 table saws and 2 of them sawstops so we can run without blade guards (somewhat) safely. and, after 5-6 years, the ics cabinet saw has a terrible problem with sawdust packing in the mechanism for blade raising. sawstop wrote a procedure on how to get the dust/chips out. so I guess that hasn't been solved on this model.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

TimPa said:


> I agree with most said. 1 1/2 hp unisaw running on 120v, I use it extensively.. would likely run better if rewired for 220, I know its limits. just lazy I guess. I have the jet lock rip fence, and am able to keep it tuned to match any aftermarket.
> 
> 
> my shop at work, 3 table saws and 2 of them sawstops so we can run without blade guards (somewhat) safely. and, after 5-6 years, the ics cabinet saw has a terrible problem with sawdust packing in the mechanism for blade raising. sawstop wrote a procedure on how to get the dust/chips out. so I guess that hasn't been solved on this model.



If you have the proper sized wire, it makes no difference if 110 or 220, but if you don't have heavy enough wire for the 110, it will cause it to bog down if pushed hard because of voltage drop


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

IAMAFREEMAN said:


> Kudzu, You must live south of the Mason-Dixon! How al you ole boys doing? I haven't been south since 1990 building the new paper mill outside Augusta.
> 
> I am putting an old 34-761 back together; inherited it Nothing wrong but someone cranked up the riser piece until it cracked right at the bore. Going to see how much $$$ to weld - and possibly true up the bore, but as an old B&S machinist I think it can be welded and still be true. Hell's Belles, it doesn't spin on the shaft so a few thousands of an inch ought'n to hurt nothing!
> 
> ...


Just an FYI for a first time poster. Check out the Hudzu's profile before posting and resurrecting a thread from 7 years ago. The OP hasn't been on the forum in a long time. Just sayin'


> Last Activity: 03-10-2011 02:41 PM


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## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

Watch out for OSHA, they don't recognize the electronic system as being a replacement for the plastic guard.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Is OSHA still operating?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

The problem with the packed dust on Unisaws in the early days was dust collection. It was rare in the 80's to see anyone in a profitable shop to even worry about it. Most of those saws didn't get cleaned out till it was throwing it back at you.

Today dust collection is king in the shop. why? Time. Companies want to keep dust down to keep the machine running . They don't want to shut it down for cleaning.

Most think they do it for the employee, not so...


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