# Router table electrical wiring



## stoneda70 (Oct 14, 2013)

Building a router table and want a switch, on budget, but haven't found much info online. Not an electrical expert either...I'm thinking:

-Router's a PC690 series

-2 handy boxes (found at HD). 1 with 15A dual receptacle, the other with a 15A 1-pole switch. For wire, 12/2 and install my own plug or cut up a 12 Guage extension cord (I didn't see any 12/2 at HD sold by the ft, only romix pre packaged). Male end would hang out the back to accept an extension cord. Switch would be mounted on the side, rather than front to minimize risk of accidental movement.

Does that sound ok?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would just buy  this . Gives you the big quick "off" paddle. Thaty price is pretty cheap.

George


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## stoneda70 (Oct 14, 2013)

Thanks.. I might do that.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Even better....I'd use one of these....

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243

and also order part number P0555020 from them which is a box for the switch (not online and they claim it doesn't exist, however i've ordered them twice from them using this part number)

Then use a handy box with a outlet in it, i'd go with a single plug outlet so the other plug isn't getting packed with dust.


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

I use a foot switch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LJNJOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Also for wire, home depot carries this on their big wire by the foot reel....12 gauge is fine, but really overkill. 14/3 carries 15 amps just fine and all you're doing is making your wiring harder to fit in the box. This wire is much more durable than any extension cord, and cheaper too. 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-14-3-SJOOW-Black-300V-By-the-Foot-55808699/204633006

Here is the plug i'd use...I have one of these on my router table, radial arm saw, dust collector and the 220 version on my table saw. They're good quality, easy to use, and durable. 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pass-Sey...ial-Grade-Straight-Plug-PS5266XCCV4/202664475

last but not least....to use the switch I posted you'll want to pick up a pack of ring terminals to connect the wiring to the back of the switch.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> I would just buy  this . Gives you the big quick "off" paddle. Thaty price is pretty cheap.
> 
> George


What George said. I have a dual router table with a pair of these and one for the router table on my table saw.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I just use a household light switch like you bought. In a double box I put the switch on one side and the other side I take a receptacle and break the tab that connects the two sides of the receptacle and wire one side of the receptacle to the switch and the other side just make it a hot receptacle. The router I plug into the switched side of the receptacle and turn the switch to the router on and leave it on and then operate it off the light switch.


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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> last but not least....to use the switch I posted you'll want to pick up a pack of ring terminals to connect the wiring to the back of the switch.


This is great advice. To avoid issues down the road never land stranded wire directly on a device terminals.m. If necessary first use wire nuts to pigtail to solid wire in the box.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

I used a 4" square bos with a dual switch and a duplex receptacle, recessed in the front. Pic here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/progress-report-router-table-64135/#post623497

The top switch controls the router (single outlet inside the router compartment), and the bottom switch controls a single outlet in the back of the table to power the shop vac. The duplex outlet in front is live whenever the table is plugged in.


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## SingleCarGarage (Nov 10, 2014)

I had an old 9 foot a/c extension cord laying around and a plastic box and standard household light switch. I cut the hot lead of the cord and wired it through the box and switch. I mounted the box to the side of my homemade router table. Works for me, zero dollars in purchase parts at that time since I had them laying around. If you go buy the stuff it would be roughly 10-15 bucks in material (mostly due to the extension cord).


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I get one of the switches with an outlet. Add a cord with a plug. Plug the router in and the switch is ready to go. 

Doubt the paddle stop sign switch will be needed but might get bumped running stock on the table.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> I just use a household light switch like you bought. In a double box I put the switch on one side and the other side I take a receptacle and break the tab that connects the two sides of the receptacle and wire one side of the receptacle to the switch and the other side just make it a hot receptacle. The router I plug into the switched side of the receptacle and turn the switch to the router on and leave it on and then operate it off the light switch.


Me too. Works great.

Al


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## TMA Woodworks (Apr 23, 2010)

last but not least....to use the switch I posted you'll want to pick up a pack of ring terminals to connect the wiring to the back of the switch.[/QUOTE]


Another option is to get the pass and seymour switch part # CSB20AC1* (*indicates color). I would suggest this vs a regular household switch. First it's a side and back wire device so it uses clamps instead of just screws so you can use stranded wire. It is also heavier duty and although the motor load will be handled by either I think this will last longer. Now granted your motor may only use 15 amps you need to compensate for the start-up (in-rush). P&S recommend a 20amp for a 1HP motor. 
2hp they suggest 30amp. I know the big box stores sell the 20amp. You may need to go to a distributor to get the 30 amp. Also plan to shell out some coin for that. What I would suggest is a relay. You can build them or buy them. We have a place in town that does web sales called the Surplus Center. They are good people. But here is a link to a motor start that would work with very little modification. 
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...-BUTTON-START-STOP-STATION-SWITCH-11-3352.axd


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## stoneda70 (Oct 14, 2013)

Thanks for all the great advice&ideas.. I'm re-assessing based on the info. Ultimately will post some photo's when I'm done with this project. Thanks again.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

TMA Woodworks said:


> Another option is to get the pass and seymour switch part # CSB20AC1* (*indicates color). I would suggest this vs a regular household switch. First it's a side and back wire device so it uses clamps instead of just screws so you can use stranded wire. It is also heavier duty and although the motor load will be handled by either I think this will last longer. Now granted your motor may only use 15 amps you need to compensate for the start-up (in-rush). P&S recommend a 20amp for a 1HP motor.
> 2hp they suggest 30amp. I know the big box stores sell the 20amp. You may need to go to a distributor to get the 30 amp. Also plan to shell out some coin for that. What I would suggest is a relay. You can build them or buy them. We have a place in town that does web sales called the Surplus Center. They are good people. But here is a link to a motor start that would work with very little modification.
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...-BUTTON-START-STOP-STATION-SWITCH-11-3352.axd


That switch linked won't be much use for a router table. Not many routers are 240V. Might be a good replacement for bigger 240v machines, though.

What I find handy is the "duplex toggle switch", pictured. And most routers will work fine with a standard light switch. First link is for a 15 amp duplex, and the second is a 20 amp version (little more expensive). I have used the 15 amp version on many a machine, and never wore one out, but if it should die, $8 or so is a cheap replacement. In fact both my router table and my lathe use these (15 amp) switches.

http://www.gordonelectricsupply.com...ocess~search?gclid=CLaMq9mfpsICFeVaMgod5V8AwQ

https://platt.com/platt-electric-su...Toggle/Leviton/5334-I/product.aspx?zpid=34898

$9 or so will get you a 20 amp 1HP rated single toggle switch:

http://www.galesburgelectric.com/Le...Req.-Neutral-Single-Pole-AC-Quiet-Switch.html


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## stoneda70 (Oct 14, 2013)

Think I've only got one more thing to sort out.. I'm curious about the most "right" type/method in terms of wire "type". I've decided to go with a standard light switch and really like the idea of using a half-switched (halfhot) outlet. After some research, I understand the wiring scheme. However, all the info I've found involves romex vice soow (ext cord) type of wire. Naturally, since switches and outlets are typically installed in walls vice portable devicesI'd assume romex is the recommended wire type for the devices (switches/outlets).. So, does anyone know if there's any risk with using pure soow type from router to wall outlet.. or is it basically a non-concern as long as I get it all wired up correctly?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The soow type wire would be fine to go to the wall outlet. It's the romex wire with the solid wire that wouldn't be good for that application. Solid wire should only be used where it stays in one position. It's not flexible enough.


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## stoneda70 (Oct 14, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> It's not flexible enough.


Rgr, thanks. I should have been more specific in that I was curious if a mixture should be used.. (ie. soow for the input / romex between the outlet and switch).. but right, that probably wouldn't make much sense.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

SJOOW or SOOW is available at Home Depot by the foot. Either will work great for the table wiring.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

Alchymist said:


> That switch linked won't be much use for a router table. Not many routers are 240V. Might be a good replacement for bigger 240v machines, though.
> 
> What I find handy is the "duplex toggle switch", pictured. And most routers will work fine with a standard light switch. First link is for a 15 amp duplex, and the second is a 20 amp version (little more expensive). I have used the 15 amp version on many a machine, and never wore one out, but if it should die, $8 or so is a cheap replacement. In fact both my router table and my lathe use these (15 amp) switches.
> 
> ...


I wouldnt want to cut the plug off my router though. no matter how dedicated it might be to the table, thats a bit "final". You could sacrifice the female plug of a busted extension cord I guess. Im thinking the ideal situation is a male pig tail, female outlet, and a switch to close the 2. add extension cord to plug it in and unmodified router.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Don't cut the plug off the router. Just use the switch to make a switched outlet in the table.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

stoneda70 said:


> Rgr, thanks. I should have been more specific in that I was curious if a mixture should be used.. (ie. soow for the input / romex between the outlet and switch).. but right, that probably wouldn't make much sense.


On several home built projects, lathe bench, router table, etc, I used soo series wire, old appliances make good line cords. Just make sure they are 3 wire and heavy enough, 14 gauge will suffice for most projects. The cord for my router bench was the line cord from a 10" table saw. 

Inside I usually use #14 NM with appropriate clamps in metal boxes, making sure the boxes themselves are grounded. Of course I have the advantage of plenty of 14-2 and 14-3 scraps laying around. The NM makes it easy to route the wires, and easily stapled or clamped in place. The 14-3 comes in handy when using a split receptacle, as I did on my lathe table. One outlet switched, the other hot on the backsplash behind the lathe. Quite handy.




bauerbach said:


> I wouldnt want to cut the plug off my router though. no matter how dedicated it might be to the table, thats a bit "final". You could sacrifice the female plug of a busted extension cord I guess. Im thinking the ideal situation is a male pig tail, female outlet, and a switch to close the 2. add extension cord to plug it in and unmodified router.


I didn't advocate cutting off the router plug in my previous post, in fact I stated "The top switch controls the router (single outlet inside the router compartment)....".

Here's pictures of the outlets and covers I use - available at most box stores:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

The only thing is all the sjoow and soow wire I've seen use stranded conductors which aren't my favorite for use where the termination is under a screw head, such as with most switches and many outlets, unless they have been tinned to keep the strands together and not be squeezed out of the terminal.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

jschaben said:


> The only thing is all the sjoow and soow wire I've seen use stranded conductors which aren't my favorite for use where the termination is under a screw head, such as with most switches and many outlets, unless they have been tinned to keep the strands together and not be squeezed out of the terminal.




I always use ring terminals with the Stranded wire when it's going to screw terminations.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

jschaben said:


> The only thing is all the sjoow and soow wire I've seen use stranded conductors which aren't my favorite for use where the termination is under a screw head, such as with most switches and many outlets, unless they have been tinned to keep the strands together and not be squeezed out of the terminal.





ryan50hrl said:


> I always use ring terminals with the Stranded wire when it's going to screw terminations.


Crimp terminals work ok, sometimes it's a pain to find the right size, and when I use them, I remove the screw instead of using the split or fork type terminals. Sometimes it's a little difficult getting the screw back in the receptacle, but doable. When I buy new, I buy spec grade which have the clamp type terminals, they work well with either solid or stranded, and usually only cost a dollar or so more than the cheap ones.

I absolutely refuse to use the "stab" type stuff.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Alchymist said:


> Crimp terminals work ok, sometimes it's a pain to find the right size, and when I use them, I remove the screw instead of using the split or fork type terminals. Sometimes it's a little difficult getting the screw back in the receptacle, but doable. When I buy new, I buy spec grade which have the clamp type terminals, they work well with either solid or stranded, and usually only cost a dollar or so more than the cheap ones.
> 
> I absolutely refuse to use the "stab" type stuff.


 I totally agree with all this. Crimp is about the best (IMHO) way to handle stranded wire. Either ring, 'U' or 'J' crimp terminals will work fine. I have also used crimp butt connectors to attach a short length of solid to the stranded. 
I also buy clamp style outlets but haven't found many switches with the clamp terminals.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I like the crimp connectors too however for stranded wire if you solder the ends it can be worked just like solid wire.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> I like the crimp connectors too however for stranded wire if you solder the ends it can be worked just like solid wire.


If you solder stranded wire:
1) Don't use where the wire is subject to vibration
2) Tighten well, as in some cases the solder can "cold flow", creating a loose connection. Tighten the screw down well, wait a while and re-tighten before closing the box up.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

All I do is solder the very end to keep if from going fuzzy. I don't think a little solder on the end would be affected by vibration. I also tighten screws very well even using the crimp connectors.


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

I just go to Home Depot and buy a Switched Plug and mount it in an Electrical Box. Plug the router in and I'm good to go. You can put a Hinged cover on the top if you want to make it a bit more safe.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> I just go to Home Depot and buy a Switched Plug and mount it in an Electrical Box. Plug the router in and I'm good to go. You can put a Hinged cover on the top if you want to make it a bit more safe.
> 
> http://s1018.photobucket.com/user/WoodOnGlass/media/WoodWorking/SwitchedPlug.jpg.html


This is exactly what I use.

Al


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## Anywhy30 (Dec 2, 2011)

stoneda70 said:


> Building a router table and want a switch, on budget, but haven't found much info online. Not an electrical expert either...I'm thinking:
> 
> -Router's a PC690 series
> 
> ...


When it comes to wiring by foot..
Most rural king farm stores carry most common by foot.
For on and off I have found a three pack plug ins one switch has kill for each in one handle, love it. Menards also sells wire already in flex conduit.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> Don't cut the plug off the router. Just use the switch to make a switched outlet in the table.


Of course, you don't cut plugs off routers, you cut them off circular saws.:laughing:


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> All I do is solder the very end to keep if from going fuzzy. *I don't think a little solder on the end would be affected by vibration.* I also tighten screws very well even using the crimp connectors.


It wont.

Guy have been tinning speaker wires on BIG systems for many years with no issues and those tend to vibrate a LOT.


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## stoneda70 (Oct 14, 2013)

Heres what I got so far.. making drawers next. Electrical will be (almost) last step.. then a fence!


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Looking good so far!


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## Anywhy30 (Dec 2, 2011)

Looks great!


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## stoneda70 (Oct 14, 2013)

Finally got the drawers made but still need to finish faces.. then back and finally will start on electrical.


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## stoneda70 (Oct 14, 2013)

Got the elec done today (tested sat)..never said I was fast. Wired a half-hot outlet as suggested on here and thanks for the advice to use ring terminals! Still need to tie down cable, get some drawer knobs attach back and top.. then on to a fence.


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