# Do you have a good recipe for wipe-on varnish?



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

I've been trying different recipes for turning a regular polyurethane into a wiping varnish but haven't had much success. I've tried mixing different ratios of BLO, mineral spirits, and poly, but it still comes out blotchy when I try to wipe on.

Do you have one that works?

Thanks in advance, -SW


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I don't think that mixing poly with BLO is a good solution. If you are really intent on making something like Minwax Antique Oil Finish substitute a varnish for the poly. 

Good News / Bad News

GN - Minwax already makes the product, red can, quarts and can be purchased at home centers or paint stores or hardware stores.

BN - MAOF can not be purchased in California.

GN - You can make something similar from materials available almost everywhere. Mix equal parts of BLO, Mineral Spirits and oil based varnish. (Sometimes also called a resin varnish.)

BN - You will probably need to wait a couple of weeks between coats. You will need to wait about a month between final coat and any other finish applied.

My advice is that if you don't live in California use MAOF.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Streamwinner said:


> I've been trying different recipes for turning a regular polyurethane into a wiping varnish but haven't had much success. I've tried mixing different ratios of BLO, mineral spirits, and poly, but it still comes out blotchy when I try to wipe on.
> 
> Do you have one that works?
> 
> Thanks in advance, -SW



If all you have is an oil base polyurethane, try just a mix of that with mineral spirits and leave out the BLO. Your first few applications could be 50/50, and after try 25% MS.

The first few applications (even with the BLO) may look blotchy until you get some film build.


----------



## Rob Schramm (Jul 12, 2010)

Minwax Wipe on Poly is only $8 a qt, why make your own?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Schramm said:


> Minwax Wipe on Poly is only $8 a qt, why make your own?



Because you can.:laughing:


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I've used tung oil, mineral spirits, and poly in equal parts, and have gotten good results.


----------



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Because you can.:laughing:


Exactly. In fact, I feel that if I can learn to do this myself, I'll have many more options than just the number of cans on my shelf. I'd like to eventually learn how different mixtures behave with different woods (esp. with different sized pores) and for different purposes.

I actually have a can of Minwax Wipe-on Poly and it works fine. I'd like to learn to have more control over the process.

rrich - I live up the coast from you a ways, so MAOF is not an option. I've tried the equal parts ratio but it is still a little to thick.

cabinetman - thanks, I'll try leaving out the BLO. It may have been contributing to the overall tackiness. I have been hesitant to use just mineral spirits and poly because I read in Flexner's book that--while you can thin and apply fine--you should always finish with a coat of full strength. I read an article by him a few days ago that said to take care of brush marks, you should sand down and finish with a coat of thinned poly (50/50). I may have misread the initial article.

knotscott - I haven't tried tung oil with poly. Is this mixture one you wipe on? I'm really trying to avoid using brushes. I hate them.


----------



## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

the original oil finish is equal parts of blo and turpintine. not what you want to do is mix thi a day in advance, stir up well let sit covered with a rag not with a tight lid. a min. of 5 days in between 1st 2 coats. depending on the type of wood could take 4-5 coats. let piece sit for 3 weeks b4 last coat. thats how it was done in the 1800's. i use this prosess for antique furniture.

thats alot of work and time make it easy on your self and aply 3 coats of danish oil


----------

