# 14" Bandsaw



## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

Greetings,

I bought the Harbor Freight Bandsaw a few years ago and really never used it. It seemed like everything I tried to cut was a hassle. I had the OEM blade and a 14TPI bi-metal blade that I bought from enco. 

I see a lot of folks online re-sawing they're lumber so I thought I'd give it a try and boy was it slow, nothing like the videos that I watch. It took for ever and made all kind of squealing noise, I dreaded using it (I didn't use it very often to begin with).

I remembered seeing a video on tuning up your bandsaw and I then seen a video that said that a three or four tooth blade was best for re-sawing. A few people had said that the Wood Slicer 1/2 inch Resaw Bandsaw Blade was a good blade. But since mine wasn't cutting so good and I dreaded using it, I didn't want to waste $30. I was at Harbor Freight and seen they have a 3TPI blade for $11 so I thought I'd try it out. BOY did it make a difference. After adjusting the guides and putting on the 3TPI blade that thing cuts like butter now. I thought for $11 I have waited to use my bandsaw. It makes a rough cut but man does it cut. I actually look for reason to use my bandsaw now. I am thinking about getting the riser block for it so I can re-saw taller boards. I wonder how many people out there have bought that bandsaw and thinks it is junk (which it might be) and if they would "Tune it Up" and add a new blade it would be a totally different saw. I will be ordering a Wood Slicer in the not to distant future.

I'm done rambling on now. 


Gary


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Sure, having the right blade for the job makes a difference on any saw. Even a table saw when you are struggling to rip thick hardwood the fewer the teeth make a profound difference. We used to use a fiber cement blade table saw with just six teeth on it to rip thick maple.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Before you buy anthing else ....*

For an $11 blade that's pretty good. I wouldn't jump into this with both feet until I used that blade a whole lot more. See if you can find a 6 tooth blade also. That will give a better cut and is good for crosscuts. The 3 TPI blade is for ripping, so don't expect a smooth cut, and you might want a spare. 

Are the blades made by Olson?

It's not very often you will need to resaw greater than 6", and your saw may not have enough power for more than that. So, hold off on the riser block until you see what you really need. My 14" bandsaw doe an awful lot as is, no riser block.


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

Steve Neul said:


> Sure, having the right blade for the job makes a difference on any saw. Even a table saw when you are struggling to rip thick hardwood the fewer the teeth make a profound difference. We used to use a fiber cement blade table saw with just six teeth on it to rip thick maple.





woodnthings said:


> For an $11 blade that's pretty good. I wouldn't jump into this with both feet until I used that blade a whole lot more. See if you can find a 6 tooth blade also. That will give a better cut and is good for crosscuts. The 3 TPI blade is for ripping, so don't expect a smooth cut, an you might want a spare.
> 
> Are the blades made by Olson?
> 
> It's not very often you will need to resaw greater than 6", and you saw may not have enough power for more than that. So, hold off on the riser block until you see what you really need. My 14" bandsaw doe an awful lot as is, no riser block.


Thanks for the replies. I'm not doing much hardwood right now but hopefully in the neat future.

Thanks fir the advice. I will check into the 6TPI blade and yes it will be a good thing to have a spare. I think it is a Portland Saw blade. I don't expect the Harbor Freight blade to last long I just got it to try out before spending $30.

Thanks again,

Gary


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## sweensdv (Mar 3, 2008)

I know you didn't ask about where to buy blades but take a look at the blades from this place, http://woodcraftbands.com/Pricing page.htm . I've been very happy with my purchases from them over the years. Ask them about that $30 blade you mentioned, they have one similar for something in the neighborhood of $16-$17.


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

Hey Gary have you recently checked to see if harbor freight sells the riser block kit? I haven't checked and was thinking about ordering the grizzly one because it would probably ship faster from amazon. 


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Get yourself a decent blade and follow advice in this video before discounting your bandsaw, you may be surprised,


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

I was pretty surprised with the reviews of the central machinery bandsaw. I expected nothing but bad reviews, but that's not so for the most part. 
I have a Ridgid 14" saw and it needs some work some day. 
Looking at the HF model it looks very much like the Ridgid saw . Mine is missing parts, mainly the bottom guides, blocks and the thrust bearing, but it still cuts. 
I wonder if the same parts for the HF model will fit the Ridgid..


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

sweensdv said:


> I know you didn't ask about where to buy blades but take a look at the blades from this place, http://woodcraftbands.com/Pricing page.htm . I've been very happy with my purchases from them over the years. Ask them about that $30 blade you mentioned, they have one similar for something in the neighborhood of $16-$17.


Thanks for the reply and the info on the less expensive blade. I will check them out.


Gary


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

FrankC said:


> Get yourself a decent blade and follow advice in this video before discounting your bandsaw, you may be surprised,
> 
> https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU


That is the video that caused me to re-think my band saw. That guy is great.

Gary


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

allpurpose said:


> I was pretty surprised with the reviews of the central machinery bandsaw. I expected nothing but bad reviews, but that's not so for the most part.
> I have a Ridgid 14" saw and it needs some work some day.
> Looking at the HF model it looks very much like the Ridgid saw . Mine is missing parts, mainly the bottom guides, blocks and the thrust bearing, but it still cuts.
> I wonder if the same parts for the HF model will fit the Ridgid..


I don't think Harbor Freight sells the riser block anymore. I have read about people use the Grizzly riser block. That is the one I am thinking of getting.

From what I've read a lot of these bandsaws are pretty much the same with a few different parts. 

Gary


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

Well I ordered the riser block last night . I'll confirm if it is a direct fit


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

tylerdru90 said:


> Well I ordered the riser block last night . I'll confirm if it is a direct fit
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you sir. I curious to see if it is.


Gary


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

I got the kit today. It looks like everything will fit except for the guide rod. I'm not too worried about the guide rod since it's just a steel rod. I'm sure I can find something that works


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

tylerdru90 said:


> I got the kit today. It looks like everything will fit except for the guide rod. I'm not too worried about the guide rod since it's just a steel rod. I'm sure I can find something that works
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



That didn't take long to get. Let us know how it works out.

Gary


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

NewBi said:


> That didn't take long to get. Let us know how it works out.
> 
> Gary



It bolted on just fine. I had to remove the pins that help align the block to the saw because they were not in the same spot. Still have to get a steel rod for the guide post. Everything is pretty straight forward



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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*that may be an issue...*



tylerdru90 said:


> It bolted on just fine. I had to remove the pins that help align the block to the saw because they were not in the same spot. Still have to get a steel rod for the guide post. Everything is pretty straight forward
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Those pins keep the wheels in the same vertical plane. If you don't have them parallel, your blade won't stay on. My solution to check that, FWIW, would be to take 2 - 1 X 6" boards long enough to span the wheel from edge to edge, horizontally, and remove enough of the center to allow for the hub to clear. Hold each board against the wheel on the bare rim and sight them like you would "winding sticks" and check them for parallel. You might have to stand on a ladder to sight down both of them. 

It's a cheap and easy way to check them. There are probably more sophisticated methods, but they would require gauges and other $$ stuff....?


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## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

I've never owned a HF bandsaw so this might not be true of them. Riser blocks require a stiffer frame or the frame will flex while trying to saw thick material. It will then go into harmonic vibration that is very difficult to deal with. You will need to tighten the blade a lot more also to prevent blade wander. It may work for soft wood but not likely maple. With your low horse power you will want to let the saw cut at it's pace and not push it too hard. Fewer teeth allow for more gullet space which allows for faster cutting. Once the gullets fill it will stop the cutting. Always have at least 3 teeth in the work.


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

I was aware that I would need to check the wheels since the alignment pins are gone. As far as the frame flexing, I just looked into it a bit and read from someone else that they did not experience the issue. The frame is cast iron so we shall see.


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## woodfordtooling (Jun 30, 2017)

Bandsaw’s being such a versatile tool has become an integral part of any woodworking. Any respectable wood shop has one. Whatever your saw, it is only as good as the blade you put in it, so always use the best – and at the correct cutting speed too of course! A band saw is a great addition to any workshop, so much so that it should be your first choice when it comes to cutting timber as it’s safe, easy to set up and use, and is extremely versatile.


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

Ok so I finally got this saw running properly. I bought this thing knowing that I would be upgrading the motor. I added the riser block and of course it was way too underpowered. I think part of it was that I didn't have it tuned up properly. I upgraded to a 2hp motor, added a link belt, and bought a timber wolf 1/2" 3 tpi blade. I had the saw tuned up with a horrible blade, and it was cutting OK. Now with the new blade, we are in business. Still have to get everything put back together. 
.


























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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

What brand of Saw is that? I think a 2 hp motor would make a big difference. Is it 220?


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

Toolman50 said:


> What brand of Saw is that? I think a 2 hp motor would make a big difference. Is it 220?




It's the harbor freight model. It's running on 120 at the moment. Yes that motor made a world of difference. It's hard to tell what made the biggest difference between getting it tuned, upgrading the motor, and getting a better blade because it all kinda happened at once. I resawed some
Mahogany and red oak about 6" wide with no problem at all. I do know when I first used it completely stock, the saw was having trouble on a pine 4x4.


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

tylerdru90 said:


> Ok so I finally got this saw running properly. I bought this thing knowing that I would be upgrading the motor. I added the riser block and of course it was way too underpowered. I think part of it was that I didn't have it tuned up properly. I upgraded to a 2hp motor, added a link belt, and bought a timber wolf 1/2" 3 tpi blade. I had the saw tuned up with a horrible blade, and it was cutting OK. Now with the new blade, we are in business. Still have to get everything put back together.
> .
> 
> 
> ...


Looks good! I just got the wood slicer blade in today, (yesterday now) and plan on putting it on within the next couple of days.


Gary


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

Good Morning,

I got the new Highlander Wood Slicer blade in and on and it makes a really nice cut. I'm wishing I would have bought a quality blade a long time ago.

Quick question. What is a good speed to run the bandsaw at? I mostly cut soft wood but do the occasionally cut a little hard wood.

EDIT: How to convert 1640 RPM to FPM or SFPM? 

Thanks,

Gary


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Any change to your RPM will be by changing your pulley size. 
Bigger pulley at top for slower. 
Smaller pulley at top for faster.


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

Toolman50 said:


> Any change to your RPM will be by changing your pulley size.
> Bigger pulley at top for slower.
> Smaller pulley at top for faster.


How do I figure out which is 3000 FPM?

Thanks,

Gary


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

I don't know the answer. Personally, I think I would stay with the original pulley sizes from the factory. I think they would know what speed their saw performs its best.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

NewBi said:


> How do I figure out which is 3000 FPM?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gary



Plug your pulley sizes in here to get the RPM of the drive wheel:
http://gadi.agric.za/software/renting/pulley_calc.php

A 14" wheel has a circumference in inches of C = IID or 3.14 X 14" or 45". Divide by 12" to get feet or 3.666 ft.

Multiply by drive wheel RPM from above calculation, to get FPM 


Most bandsaws from from 3,000 to 5,000 FPM.
The 5,000FPM is for the Industrial size machines:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/19-Ultimate-Bandsaw/G0701?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

The smaller cast iron saws are around 3,000FPM. The welded frame type is 3,000 FPM:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-...457?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

I would aim for 3500 FPM IF you feel it's necessary to even change speeds....? :nerd2:


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

I had to find a pulley that would get me the right FPM and I calculated with the pulleys I bought that I'm running 3300 fpm. If your saw is still stock then it's got 4 speeds, the highest being 2500ish FPM


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

tylerdru90 said:


> I had to find a pulley that would get me the right FPM and I calculated with the pulleys I bought that I'm running 3300 fpm. If your saw is still stock then it's got 4 speeds, the highest being 2500ish FPM
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks for the reply. Yes, mine is still stock. I only said 3000 because I read somewhere that that was a good number for cutting wood and I don't want to dull my new blade to early. I will set it at it fastest setting (which is 2670 RPM) and leave it.

Thanks,

Gary


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

woodnthings said:


> Plug your pulley sizes in here to get the RPM of the drive wheel:
> http://gadi.agric.za/software/renting/pulley_calc.php
> 
> A 14" wheel has a circumference in inches of C = IID or 3.14 X 14" or 45". Divide by 12" to get feet or 3.666 ft.
> ...



Thanks for the reply and info. I think I will just set mine to the fastest setting and leave it.

Gary


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## NewBi (Mar 23, 2017)

Toolman50 said:


> I don't know the answer. Personally, I think I would stay with the original pulley sizes from the factory. I think they would know what speed their saw performs its best.



Thanks for the reply. I'm not looking to change pulley sizes. I didn't know if one of the factory settings was 3000 FPM. One of the other posters said that it wasn't so now I know.

Thanks,

Gary


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Here is a calculator for blade speed, instead of wheel rpm.

http://vintagemachinery.org/math/sfpm.aspx

I changed a pulley on my old Delta bs, and went from 2200 sfpm to 3160 sfpm, and it was a great improvement.


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