# Advice on tote and knob staining



## aztoolman (Oct 13, 2013)

I have recently acquired a Type 9 6C and it needs a good cleaning. I want to sand the tote and knob and restain/coat them. I have what was recommended to me Minwax Jacobean to re-stain them, but wonder what the best sealer is? I have a can of semi gloss varathane (outdoor), is that something i could use to seal them? Or is there something else that works better? Thanks for the help! I also need a couple parts for a Union No. 41 tongue and groove if someone happens to have some. Feel free to message me here. 

Pat


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

aztoolman said:


> I have recently acquired a Type 9 6C and it needs a good cleaning. I want to sand the tote and knob and restain/coat them. I have what was recommended to me Minwax Jacobean to re-stain them, but wonder what the best sealer is? I have a can of semi gloss varathane (outdoor), is that something i could use to seal them? Or is there something else that works better? Thanks for the help! I also need a couple parts for a Union No. 41 tongue and groove if someone happens to have some. Feel free to message me here.
> 
> Pat


I've used an interior oil base varnish, or an oil base polyurethane.








 







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## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

I use Truoil. It's a common gunstock finish. You can even buy it in Walmart in the gun section. I forget what it is, but remember it's nothing really unusual-probably some linseed or tung oil mix, and designed to be handled. It holds up well, and looks like original finish.

My first check for plane parts is nhplaneparts on ebay. He and his wife have been doing it for a long time, and have a most amazing inventory.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I also like to use Tru-Oil.

Take a look at post #19 in this thread.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/plane-restore-round-3-a-47883/

I think Tru-Oil is boiled linseed oil (blo) and some pigments. It cures faster than pure blo. Makes a nice hard coat. Easy to apply by hand. I let it cure overnight and then recoat the next day.

You may find you do not need to use the Minwax Jacobean stain.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Historically speaking it was lacquer. That's always what I use but there's not really a right or wrong on it if it's for you.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

firemedic said:


> Historically speaking it was lacquer. That's always what I use but there's not really a right or wrong on it if it's for you.


+1. :yes: I like shiny knobs...what can I say?
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## john sayles (May 27, 2013)

A type 8 should have rosewood knobs -- I hope you're not staining these.
Shellac or lacquer would be appropriate, but stains, BLO and the like will only darken them to the point that the grain will be obscured.
(Jacobean is a fine choice for hardwood knobs such as found on wartime models)


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

If your plane has the rosewood handles, you really don't need to stain them. Here is a good link on some tips on refinishing.
http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/handle/refinish.htm
Myself I use Watco Danish oil, then follow up with a couple coats of Teak oil applied with oooo steel wool, wipe off the slurry with a lint free cloth..You can get a real shiny finish with more coats or a semi gloss appearance. Personally I prefer the oil finish, because of the look and feel.
Fresh out of the box look is nice, but the period style look to me is better.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

acowboy said:


> Myself I use Watco Danish oil, then follow up with a couple coats of Teak oil applied with oooo steel wool, wipe off the slurry with a lint free cloth..


What Teak Oil do you use?








 







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## aztoolman (Oct 13, 2013)

john sayles said:


> A type 8 should have rosewood knobs -- I hope you're not staining these.
> Shellac or lacquer would be appropriate, but stains, BLO and the like will only darken them to the point that the grain will be obscured.
> (Jacobean is a fine choice for hardwood knobs such as found on wartime models)


I have been doing my homework on this plane, it has a type 8 frog but the body is that of a type 9. (two patent dates and no B cast into the plane). It looks like my new 6C is an example of "No parts left behind" at the Stanley factory. I am headed to an estate sale but will post pictures when I get home. 

Thank you all for the advice, I will check that website as well for the parts for my Union No. 41. 

Pat


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

cabinetman said:


> What Teak Oil do you use?


I use The Watco brand, been having some good results.
A came across this in another forum where you start off with the Danish oil first and follow up with the Teak oil, was posted by a old time cabinet maker who accidentally stumbled upon it. Works for me.

















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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

acowboy said:


> I use The Watco brand, been having some good results.
> A came across this in another forum where you start off with the Danish oil first and follow up with the Teak oil, was posted by a old time cabinet maker who accidentally stumbled upon it. Works for me.


The Watco Danish Oil, and the Teak Oil are basically the same thing. They are a BLO, varnish resin, mineral spirit mix. Each is a stand alone film finish, not just a penetrating oil.


















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## aztoolman (Oct 13, 2013)

Here are the pictures of the 6C I picked up as well as the Union No. 41 and the Stanley No. 79 I nabbed as well. 25 bucks for all three, hopefully they come out nice when they are cleaned up. I also picked up a Kennedy No. 1018 tool box for ten bucks and a Arkansas hard stone for FREE.. 

As you can see with the two patent dates and no B the plane is a type 9 and the frog is a type 8. With the pictures can any of you tell if I should use the danish oil or sand/stain the tote/knob? Thanks again for your help!

Pat

EDIT: The lateral lever has a patent date of "7-24-88" that's why I believe the frog is a Type 8.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

It is not easy to see any detail from the pictures. On my computer they are rather small.

The earlier replies mentioned the finish Stanley would have used, or you can use a more modern finish, but not the "true" Stanley.

You should decide what to use on the knob and tote based on whether you want true to the period or a finish for a user plane.


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## aztoolman (Oct 13, 2013)

Dave Paine said:


> It is not easy to see any detail from the pictures. On my computer they are rather small.
> 
> The earlier replies mentioned the finish Stanley would have used, or you can use a more modern finish, but not the "true" Stanley.
> 
> You should decide what to use on the knob and tote based on whether you want true to the period or a finish for a user plane.


I'm not sure why the pictures came out so small. I uploaded them to my google images and then uploaded them to the website. Either way, lots of good info here for a nice updating of the tote/knob. Thanks again everybody.

Pat


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

You use the No 48 yet?


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

I simply wax rosewood.


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## jamesicus (Nov 24, 2010)

timetestedtools said:


> I simply wax rosewood.


Me too - in fact all exotic hard woods


http://jp29.org/wwtools.htm


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

cabinetman said:


> The Watco Danish Oil, and the Teak Oil are basically the same thing. They are a BLO, varnish resin, mineral spirit mix. Each is a stand alone film finish, not just a penetrating oil.


Thanks for that info,guess just the repetitive steps where the only thing that was making the finish look better.

















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## aztoolman (Oct 13, 2013)

firemedic said:


> You use the No 48 yet?


I haven't used it. I think there is a screw/blade/arm missing perhaps. There's only one screw/blade and if I'm not mistaken there should be two, correct? Also are the knobs from the Union No. 41 and the Stanley No. 48 compatible? Thanks, 

Pat


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## rb61 (Nov 25, 2013)

acowboy said:


> If your plane has the rosewood handles, you really don't need to stain them. Here is a good link on some tips on refinishing.
> http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/handle/refinish.htm
> Myself I use Watco Danish oil, then follow up with a couple coats of Teak oil applied with oooo steel wool, wipe off the slurry with a lint free cloth..You can get a real shiny finish with more coats or a semi gloss appearance. Personally I prefer the oil finish, because of the look and feel.
> Fresh out of the box look is nice, but the period style look to me is better.


I agree. If it is rosewood, oil is all you may need.


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## john sayles (May 27, 2013)

OK, Pat
now that we have all that out of the way -- go back and read my post (about the 6th response to your question)


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## jamesicus (Nov 24, 2010)

From my article relating to rehabilitation of an early production Millers Falls No. 2 hand drill:

" ........ All that was needed to restore the original beauty of the wood surfaces was a brisk rub-down using a soft dry rag. The surfaces soon took on that warm soft glow of polished exotic hardwood .........." -- rosewood without any finish applied.




































http://jp29.org/wwtools.htm


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## aztoolman (Oct 13, 2013)

jamesicus, I have found most of the totes/knobs/handles I come across here in Arizona are dry and often cracked. I would say more often than not, they need something more than just a dry rub, sometimes more than just wax.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I've used a bunch of different finishes over the years restoring older tool handles. These days, I use an aerosol can of Deft. I'm likely to buff it out after several light applications using #0000 steel wool and follow with a coat of paste wax. It gives the handle a nice feel and provides adequate protection. Looks good, too. 

Here are some plane totes, the #3 top is an original finish. It was dipped and is quite thick. Pretty good durability but tends to chip and obscures the wood. Left is a Record #6. This is not rosewood. Years ago, I stained the tote walnut and just applied boiled linseed oil. BLO is popular on tool handles, shovels, ladders, etc. but it doesn't add much protection. On the right is a Stanley #8. Rosewood, natural, Deft spray, buffed and waxed. 

Also are pictures of some saw handles, all done with Deft but with different levels of build. The walnut handle was stained with walnut, which by the way, doesn't change walnut very much, a few light coats of Deft. The Beech and black handle has close grain and I applied more coats than normal, buffed and waxed. The red handle is under restoration, actually birch, stain a red mahogany, several coats of Deft, a few more to go and a buffing and wax. 

These are, after all, tool handles. They will get beat up over time and may get restored again. Not a bad place to try some different finishes and see how they hold up and look. Biggest thing is that the handles are smooth and pleasant to the touch.


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