# Table saw fence using round guide rails?



## coffeehound (Oct 12, 2014)

Bought an old Delta Unisaw a while back, and so far, it runs beautifully! Very pleased with everything, except the fence that came with it. Granted, there's a broken piece in the back that would hold it tight to the rear guide rail, and I could probably replace that and be alright, but if I'm going to spend the time and money on fixing the fence, I figure I might as well do it right.

That being said, all the aftermarket fence systems I'm seeing use square tubing instead of the round tubing like the stuff installed on my saw. I'd like to keep the guide rails if possible, but I'm catching whiffs and rumors that the round stuff tends to let the fence wiggle when you lock it down, so you're never sure if you've got the same squareness each time you lock it down.

So did these guys just have bad experiences, or should I look into replacing my guide rails? And if I can keep them, does anyone know of a round guide rail system that's any good?

Much appreciated!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

The guide rain on my fence is mostly round. Very good fence system. 
A Craftsman aftermarket upgrade.

George


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## 2lim (Aug 30, 2009)

Any fence that you buy, will come as a complete unit, including guide rails.

For instance, a new Biesermeyer fence comes with the actual fence, two pieces of angle iron(pre drilled), and a square tube. You unbolt your existing round rails, and bolt on the angle iron, then you bolt the square tube to the angle iron that you just installed, and poof, you have a new fence!

Simon


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Most round rails that ive seen lock on the front and back rail, something i hate. The reason is that 9 for 10 of those rails wont always lock parallel so the blade, because the mechanism that locks to the back rail wont allow the rail to move enough to self square itself. Personally, id banish the desire to keep the existing rail. Like 2lim mentioned, most fences you can buy are actually fence systems, and they generally come with the fence and rail setup. Personally, id recommend looking into upgrading to a t-square style fence. While ive never used it, id take a look at the one VerySuperCoolTools makes. Now, theres is one of the few that doesnt come with its own rails, but they actually have instructions for fabricating rails that the fence itself will fit. The part that i like is the fence itself uses aluminium extrusion as the portion the wood runs against. Aluminium extrusion is extremely flat, strong and easy to bolt things to, which is why i like it. At any rate, good luck!


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

I have a Hammer K3 saw that has one round rail for the fence to ride on, it doesn't require a second rail to lock the back of the fence. The fence is made from an aluminum extrusion, works very well, rock solid when locked and has the advantage of being able to slide the fence forward and backward relative to the operator. This comes in handy when you want to use the fence as a stop for cross cuts, but don't want it to bind as you push the stock through the blade.

The rail is 1.5" in diameter, if your rail is similar, it may work for you.


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## BaldEagle2012 (Jan 25, 2012)

I replaced the fence system on my Craftsman contrator saw, vintage 1995, with the Incra TS LS 32" fence system.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i happen to have a unisaw 90's vintage with the jet lock fence still intact. gets almost daily use. if you read and follow the directions, it can be a pretty good fence. perfect - no. most aren't.

yes, you have to keep the rails clean as most fence systems.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Putting a Biesemeyer style t square fence (Jet Exacta) on my unisaw, was as much of an improvement, as switching from a Craftsman saw to the Unisaw. BIG improvement.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The round guide rails just has a little quirks. When setting the fence you slide it past the size you want and then move it toward the blade and lock it down. It's not so much that it wiggles but tends to be out of square with the top of the saw which tends to pinch against the blade when you make a cut.


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