# Easy mortise



## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Every mortise and tenon joint up to the moment has been on the edges of boards for face frames etc and I've been using the doweling jig. 









This build requires me to have my mortices on the flat side of the board and I was a bit worried at trying it. As it turned out - it was a piece of cake using my t-track bench - about 12 min/mortise and they came out perfect. Once I marked out the center, I drew a line 2 1/4 inches away and pinched the board on that line. The fence that pinches the board is also the fence for my router.









Add another line 1/8 inches for the other side of the mortise and I'm done except for the easy chisel work to square it off.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

That's a cool set up. What were they for...a tenon on the end of shelves?








 







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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Thanks - I used the same set-up for blind dadoes. Pinching the boards is such an easy set up, I use it to clamping lots... but these tenons are for a desktop galley.









The picture was taken during a dry fit so my son could see what he's getting.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Other than being smaller, what's the difference between that and a blind dado?








 





 
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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

I'm sure you know the answer - but discussion sake - blind dadoes can be open on 1 end and the width of the cut is the thickness of the shelves (usually what dadoes are made for while mortise and tenons are joints for holding a build together. When remodeling my kitchen, I took a couple of carrying walls down and replaced them with a huge beam and beam hanger. I ended up with a large post and I hid that with stacked fixed shelves and used blind dadoes. The shelving sides were secured to the wall and post...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I have to agree with you that a M&T is intended to keep the joint from pulling apart, and in some circumstances provide axial strength. Did you have a set up for a stop for the router (I didn't see any), or did you eyeball to a stop line?

Just for the sake of discussion, deciding on a M&T, or a blind dado, with the M&T you don't have to take out as much material as would a blind dado. But, OTOH, you have to create a tenon on the shelf. If using a blind dado, you have to take out more material, which really is just a plough...one, maybe two passes. Nothing more than a notch needed for the shelf. With doing a blind dado you don't necessarily have to square out the corners. 

With the M&T you have to have clean edges on the shelf, whereas with the blind dado, those get buried. Doing the M&T is a good joint, and getting a good fit makes it an effective one.








 







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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Cabinetman - I have read many posts by you and I know your woodworking skills are worthy of your name "Cabinetman". You are a Master and I have learned from your posts. As for myself, I would like to think of myself as a craftsman and I'm not going to live long enough to be a Master... but I'm happy considering I'm self taught...

I like to think of my whole workbench as a jig - it really is extremely versatile - so versatile, I could have easily added a stop for mortise cuts... but I eye balled the lengths of the cuts. We both know the beauty of mortice joints is that minor errors in the mortise cuts are never seen. As for the tenons - cut a good shoulder and your joints are perfect. That is why I cut my mortise 1st and my tenons shoulders are cut acculturate on the table saw, but cut proud on the thickness. The rest of the tenons are cut on my router table - 1st extra thick and sneaked down to the correct thickness. A good sharp chisel shaves off the extra thickness left behind by the ts. 

I know you know a good mortise and tenon joint is easily dry assembled by hand (no mallet or clamps needed) but stays together when moved and it needs no tool to disassemble it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

BernieL said:


> I like to think of my whole workbench as a jig - it really is extremely versatile - so versatile...


That's an interesting interpretation, and for those of us that are self taught, very true. Your post presents options for joinery, that in the long run after fitment may appear the same, and will likely afford substantial strength. One reason to bring up the blind dado (just for the discussion).

It's the thinking process used to evaluate the project and visualize the array of possibilities for the joinery. In doing so, being 'task intuitive' allows us to see each choice through its making and from the pros and cons for each decide which one to use. It's a gift almost, to be 'task intuitive'. Craftsmen like you are very creative, and can read between the lines.

So, yes, your bench is a jig, and being intuitive and creative will make the most of what you have. Your posts reflect that creativity.








 








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