# Veneer Newbie



## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

I recently purchased some exotic wood veneer to use on a jewelry box project. Small pieces of veneer (4" x 6"), nothing too large....wanted to start off small and work my way up. I do not have a vacuum bag or veneer press so I wanted to see what processes were out there to obtain a modest amount of veneering. 

I'm starting off with some figured maple veneer, which is relatively flat, but want to work my way up to using some Mahogany Crotch veneer which I found to be quite wavy. 

Looking for suggestions on gluing, pressing and and even finishing of these veneers. They're not paper backed.

Any and all suggestions and recommendations are welcome! :smile:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

wlofton said:


> I recently purchased some exotic wood veneer to use on a jewelry box project. Small pieces of veneer (4" x 6"), nothing too large....wanted to start off small and work my way up. I do not have a vacuum bag or veneer press so I wanted to see what processes were out there to obtain a modest amount of veneering.
> 
> I'm starting off with some figured maple veneer, which is relatively flat, but want to work my way up to using some Mahogany Crotch veneer which I found to be quite wavy.
> 
> ...


If the veneer is wavy, you could use a veneer softener. For sizes that small, I would just use weight and Unibond 800 glue.









 







.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If all you are working with is small pieces of veneer, I would just glue it with yellow carpenters glue. I would clamp a piece of scrap wood over the veneer to press it down. If there is any place where the glue could ozze out you might cover the scrap wood with plastic packaging tape to keep it from sticking. If you get to working with larger pieces of veneer I would use a resin glue. I've seen wood glue dry over the weekend around the edges and stay wet in the center. The resin glue will dry regardless.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

wlofton said:


> I recently purchased some exotic wood veneer to use on a jewelry box project. Small pieces of veneer (4" x 6"), nothing too large....wanted to start off small and work my way up. I do not have a vacuum bag or veneer press so I wanted to see what processes were out there to obtain a modest amount of veneering.
> 
> I'm starting off with some figured maple veneer, which is relatively flat, but want to work my way up to using some Mahogany Crotch veneer which I found to be quite wavy.
> 
> ...


I used to veneer yrs ago, i would use weld wood contact glue or get some contact form *Constantines*. wood they have a place in NY and Fla look up google and you will see the glue. Once the contact glue is applyed to both sides wait tell it is tackey to totch and than make sure when you put the pieces togother it is where you want it. It will not be able to move it, It is stuck, i would make it a little to big than sand to the finish edge.


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

The TB II or III can be used. You need to avoid too much. The glue sets up by the water absorbing into the wood unless you use way too much which should squeeze out if clamped well. Clamping between wax paper and MDF plus cauls works for small projects. Tite bond make a glue with longer working time if you are going to do much.
It is best to get one of the good books and/or DVDS if you plan to do much. There are tips and techniques for wavy veneer etc if you want good results. Too much to cover in a post.
Bob


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## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

I ended up using TB II extended wood glue for the more open glue time. I applied it very thin with a plastic trim roller without the paint roller on it (worked quite well!) and had very little squeeze out. Placed a sheet of wax paper between the veneer and a piece of 3/4"thk birch plywood. I let it set 2 days and was very happy with the results! 

Next new tool will be a veneer saw, most definitely! :yes:

Will post a picture very soon. Thanks for the advice everyone! I will continue to progress with the veneering a little at a time.


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## Jophus14 (Aug 21, 2012)

Much like you, I am getting ready to build a keepsake box which will incorporate a piece of veneer for the lid. I have never used veneer so your thread was informative. Please post pics of your jewelry box when you are finished. Thanks.


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## chicago (Jul 5, 2012)

wlofton said:


> I recently purchased some exotic wood veneer to use on a jewelry box project. Small pieces of veneer (4" x 6"), nothing too large....wanted to start off small and work my way up. I do not have a vacuum bag or veneer press so I wanted to see what processes were out there to obtain a modest amount of veneering.
> 
> I'm starting off with some figured maple veneer, which is relatively flat, but want to work my way up to using some Mahogany Crotch veneer which I found to be quite wavy.
> 
> ...


Here's my experience to date. You may find some info that will help you.

Best of luck on your jewelry box.


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

I feel that for any veneer work of this size hot hide glue is by far the easiest glue to use.


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## chicago (Jul 5, 2012)

*Amen on that!*



Keith Mathewson said:


> I feel that for any veneer work of this size hot hide glue is by far the easiest glue to use.


The more I use hot hide glue (HHG), the more I appreciate all that it offers. We're away on vacation and I cannot wait to get back and pick up where I left off on my veneered jewelry box.

Thanks for dropping' in.


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

Phillip,

I'm glad to see that you are having fun doing some veneer work but taking a quick look at your website I think I can save you some bumps on the learning curve. Hide glue works best using a veneer hammer, no plastic, rollers, melamine plywood, etc. That approach works best with veneer tape, not blue tape, and Unibond 800. A cut seam is better than a sanded seam, you don't want to sand your seams to fit, that will come back to bite you one day. Also a cheap plastic soup warmer will work better than the slow cooker. Perhaps most important is to not use the squeeze bottle. I've tried that and it doesn't work well. A larger brush or a hide glue spoon works much better. I believe that Tools For Woodworking still make hide glue spoons but for most projects you don't need it and if you do vacuum veneering will most likely work better. Start using an iron to reheat applied veneers. There is an english guy on Youtube who does a very good presentation on the use of hide glue. In England it is called Scotch glue. Viewing these will help a good deal.


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## wlofton (Oct 11, 2010)

Why is Hot Hide Glue preferred?


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## Jophus14 (Aug 21, 2012)

The guy at WoodCraft suggested that I use Titebond's "Cold Press Veneer Glue." I bought it, but have yet to use it. I heard that the hide glue has a real short shelf life. How true is that statement?


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

The reason I use hot hide glue for small projects is that it is easier and faster to use. A iron and water will soften the veneer in a minute and joining pieces of veneer can be done with a razor knife and straight edge. For larger pieces a vacuum bag is easier. Hide glue will last many years in its dry state and if kept in the refrigerator after hydrated will last a good month and in the freezer many months. Here is the link to the Youtube demo


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## chicago (Jul 5, 2012)

*Check these video's out!*



wlofton said:


> Why is Hot Hide Glue preferred?


Here are two video's that should answer your question:

How to prepare and mix hot hide glue

Hammer veneering with hot hide glue

While these are extremely informative video's, I have yet to find one that demo's how to use hot hide glue (HHG) on a quad-matched piece. 

If anyone knows of one, I would really like to have a link to it. The old Master's had a way of doing this with HHG while leaving nearly invisible seams, so that info would be invaluable to me a others as well.


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