# Router Table Plans



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hey all,

So I am at a place where I think I am going to take the plunge and build a router table. I have been using a Bosch benchtop model that works just fine. It's pretty accurate but not as good as I'd like. The pain with that is setting it up and then breaking it down and storing it everytime I need to use it. I have half of a 2 car garage as my workspace, so i need portability. I plan to purchase a deciated router in additon to what I have today that will stay in the table.

I know there are tons of plans on the web. I have done boat loads of searches and bookmared a lot of plans. That's part of the problem. Which one do I choose to build? I consider myself more of a novice woodworker. Built a few thing but nothing major. I don't think I want to tackle "Norm's Table" but I would like to build something with a cabinet and some drawers that is on wheels so I can move it around my small shop/garage. 

Any designs you all prefer? Should I try to build my own top or buy one? What about the fence? Make one or buy one? I want it to be the last one I build. I don't want to build a benchtop table or anythng that breaks down or folds up when not in use. Those are all good but not really what I am looking to build

Just kind of looking for your thoughts, ideas, and/or recommendations for plans or ideas.

If I haven't provided enough information please just ask.

Thanks


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## snookfish (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm pretty new to this game as well and just built my own router table. Few things I learned: Make the top thick, I used a 3/4 plywood under some 1/2 particle so the table is sturdy, However I plan on adding some laminate to the final top because even though the particle board I used had a finished top, my workpieces do not glide as well as I had hoped. Same goes with the fence, I plan on laminating that as well so that the workpiece has a nice slick and even surafce to run against. 
Buy a router plate, yeah they cost around $50 but I used clear acrylic and it bends just enough to take away the accuracy I was looking for. An aluminum router plate is far superior!
Enclose the area where the router is because if not, there isn't a dust collection system in the world that can keep your floor from looking like you killed your neighbors tree and got rid of the evidence in your garage. I had to go back and do that one. 
I used the basic 4 legged plan from woodsmithshop.com. from this link http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/111/111-routertable.pdf although I went with my own design on making a fence and attaching the fence with T-track. It just seemed easier than what they had and my skill level. My fence is just 2- 1" x 6" boards squared and then reinforced with 4 45degree blocks. 

It's not really that hard to build. I can say that my flush trim bit earned a place in the router with my limited ability to keep the table top pieces exactly even, but thats what thier for right! I suspect that I'll have it for a long time, but at some point I will go out and make the full on table/cabinet that "Norm" made mostly because I already need a place to keep all my bits, wrench, and accessories compared to the shelf I have them on now.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

snookfish said:


> I'm pretty new to this game as well and just built my own router table. Few things I learned: Make the top thick, I used a 3/4 plywood under some 1/2 particle so the table is sturdy, However I plan on adding some laminate to the final top because even though the particle board I used had a finished top, my workpieces do not glide as well as I had hoped. Same goes with the fence, I plan on laminating that as well so that the workpiece has a nice slick and even surafce to run against.
> Buy a router plate, yeah they cost around $50 but I used clear acrylic and it bends just enough to take away the accuracy I was looking for. An aluminum router plate is far superior!
> Enclose the area where the router is because if not, there isn't a dust collection system in the world that can keep your floor from looking like you killed your neighbors tree and got rid of the evidence in your garage. I had to go back and do that one.
> I used the basic 4 legged plan from woodsmithshop.com. from this link http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/111/111-routertable.pdf although I went with my own design on making a fence and attaching the fence with T-track. It just seemed easier than what they had and my skill level. My fence is just 2- 1" x 6" boards squared and then reinforced with 4 45degree blocks.
> ...


Thank you very much. The enclosed version is probabaly more of what I would likely build. I have a bunch of birch and maple ply sitting around and looking for some good ways to use it. This would certainly be a candidate.:thumbsup:


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## apprentice (Mar 31, 2010)

Hey Tom,
First off, good advice given by snookfish. IMHO, theres no good reason to not build your own table. 
Reasons to:
1) You will save $
2) you will increase your knowledge of woodworking and get a chance to further practice your skills
3) you will have that"i built it myself" reward
Built mine(primitive and portable for about $10, and very happy with it!
Step by step guide with pics if your interested, no charge!
Have fun!


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

apprentice said:


> Hey Tom,
> First off, good advice given by snookfish. IMHO, theres no good reason to not build your own table.
> Reasons to:
> 1) You will save $
> ...


Why thank you sir. I appreciate the advice. Yeah i think it's time to take the plunge and build it. I would love to see your plans and pics. Thank you for offering.


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## Burnt_Blade (Dec 26, 2009)

Working in a small shop area like your garage, you may want to consider adding a router insert into the wing of your tablesaw. Not only will it save on space, but also the bonus of being able to use the tablesaw's fence for router table operations.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Burnt_Blade said:


> Working in a small shop area like your garage, you may want to consider adding a router insert into the wing of your tablesaw. Not only will it save on space, but also the bonus of being able to use the tablesaw's fence for router table operations.


You know that's a great point. I have a Ridgid 3660 contractor saw and I am sure I could fit something to that table. To this point I haven't really looked closely at that option. Might be worth spending some more time investigating.


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## Burnt_Blade (Dec 26, 2009)

Tom5151 said:


> You know that's a great point. I have a Ridgid 3660 contractor saw and I am sure I could fit something to that table. To this point I haven't really looked closely at that option. Might be worth spending some more time investigating.


I have an old Craftsman contractor TS, and removed the iron wing and replaced it with double layered melamine and it really has done the trick for me...somewhere down the road I want to build one of those nice tablesaw workcenters with dust collection and drawers etc, so for now I just clean up the mess from the router....all part of time in the shop, which isn't a bad thing :thumbsup:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I've yet to see a store bought router table compete with a descent shop built unit. Maybe it's just me, but store units lack that ellement of being built to it's intended end use.

If you know guys with router tables get ur hands on thier tables and see what works for you. Everyone has a different expectation and MO. If that's not possible look at the box store models real close and imagine using it and what you would want different.

Other than that, I rather a closed cab for reasons of dust collection and storage for bits etc. I like a fixed fence for most projects but keep a two part fence on hand as well. As for the work surface melamine works well for me, easily handled and smooth sliding. I've never built nor used a table without an insert... Can't ever see me doing so. 1/2 lexan is great for this, solid and stays flat if you don't make it too large. I have plenty of 1/2 lexan on hand pm me if you would like a piece...

Good luck with your build!!!


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## Ledhead (Aug 3, 2009)

Tom, I've got plans for this router table. I built it and like it.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Ledhead said:


> Tom, I've got plans for this router table. I built it and like it.


Thank you very much sir.


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## apprentice (Mar 31, 2010)

"I don't think I want to tackle "Norm's Table" but I would like to build something with a cabinet and some drawers that is on wheels so I can move it around my small shop/garage."

hey Tom,
I must have overlooked this when i responded before. My error. This router table( or table top really) is a simple portable unit that can easily by broken down and set up within minutes using a pair of saw horses or the like. In any case i'm sending you the link to what i mentioned earlier in a PM. Have to warn you though, it's very a simple configuration, no bells, whistles, AKA ******* :laughing: But...all the joinery in my photo albums was using made the "model A":huh:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Just a suggestion that has worked very well for me.

When I built my router table I used a "Microdot" laminate by either Wilsonart or Formica, sorry i don't
remember which.

This material is dimpled. I figured if I reduced the area of contact between table and workpiece I would reduce friction/resistance.

Works great. Once in a while I wax the surface with spray furniture wax and get a great glide when routing.

Jeff


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## DustMike (Mar 7, 2011)

One of the first things I built was a router table, on top of a cabinet. Decided that I really didn't have the ability to keep things square enough and threw away my attempt at a top. Bought a Rockler table top, now I'm happier and getting better with the squareness thing, also.
Daughter sez, 
IT'S ALL GOOD!!!:laughing:


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Thank you all once again for the excellent information. I am torn right now as to whether I should go ahead and build the router table as a standalone unit or if i should incorporate it into a wheeled table saw workstation. My issue is space or lack thereof and it probabaly makes most sense to do a full portable workstation although the thought of tackling a project that big is a bit intimidating for this novice...:blink:


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## Grubgrub (Mar 7, 2011)

I just saw a great episode on the Woodsmith shop for a router table top. You can put the table top on any base or add it to you table saw but the ideas in the show were how to make it inexpensive and easy. Using common building materials.

Click here You may have to enter you e-mail to get to the episode preview but the do have free plans for the table top.

I'm not sure how to get to the episode itself. "Season 3 episode 303"


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Check your inbox, Tom:huh:


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## Kirkus (Dec 19, 2010)

One of the first things I every built was a router table. I built the one that snookfish posted, including the fence. Having some experience now, I wouldn't have built the fence that comes with the plans but rather something simpler. I'd also use melamine rather than laminate just because it's easier. I sold that router table several years ago and now have one built into a TS work station.

Despite what plan you decide to use, have confidence to know that you'll be able to pull it off, and probably learn some significant things in the process. if you get stuck, there are a whole bunch of woodworking guys and gals right here who will help you figure it out.

Don't forget to take photos and let us watch the progress! Good luck! :thumbsup:


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## repeters (Dec 11, 2009)

Hey Dale,
Any chance you could send me the plans for your router table? 
I have an older Craftsman table that is too small and a real plain Jane for what I want to do. This looks like it could work for me. 
Does the top hinge up? Do you have any pics with the doors open? 
Thanks.
Pete


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

Hey Everyone...I am questing for the perfect router table. As is the case with everybody- my table has design needs that are set by my working environment. In my case it's portability. My "shop" is under a tree in the backyard. It's been out there for years and will remain there for the foreseeable future. As you can imagine, all of my tools must be portable and there use is seasonal (California has nice weather but here in Santa Cruz- it rains often). 

As my skills progress- so does the need for better tools (you can only do so much with a circular saw before you trow up your arms and tell your spouse that you can't do another thing without a decent table saw!).

I have been looking at the dozens of benchtop router tables on the market and am not really satisfied with any of them. The two that come closest to what I have in mind are the Veritas and one by Benchdog. Both meet the demands that I can foresee- but they aren't exactly right and cost way too much. Interestingly enough- the stand's "carcass" looks like something I can not only build, but build better.

So I began by searching the web for different plans and happened upon one posted by Larry Okrend (12-09-2012). ( http://freebies.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=freebies&cdn=hobbies&tm=6&f=11&su=p284.13.342.ip_&tt=3&bt=9&bts=9&zu=http%3A//www.handymanclub.com/projects/articletype/articleview/articleid/5404/router-table-woodworking-plans ).

I'm going to follow Mr. Okrends advise re the Woodhaven Table Plate. That thing will last a lifetime and I only like to buy tools once. Mounting it with cleats seems like a good idea in the event I add a second surface to the table top (Has anyone had experience using plexiglass for a surface top?). The dc collection attachment may help a lot too. I plan on adding a couple 1"x2" rails on the face. 

Attaching an auxiliary power/master switch is a great idea. Mine, however, will have to include a second outlet for a shop vac. I have looked on line for this part and again, am not 100% satisfied with what is available. I'm currently drawing up some sketches to take to the local lighting store (they have a shop in the back of the store for custom work) to see what they can do. Sadly- electricity scares me enough that I have absolutely no interest in making this myself.

I'm going to add a Router Bit Guard that I saw on pg19 of this site...http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/111/111-routertable.pdf.

All ares of this project that involve hardwood I'd really like to use cherry...but we'll see. I'm a retired cop on a pension-not a millionaire.

I figure I have until May before the rains end and I can begin this project. I've owned a router (PC 690) for about 15+ years but have never had a proper table for it. I would appreciate any input you guys can give me. 

Joe


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I would forgo cherry and use hard maple. It's harder and more durable in my opinion. 

Otherwise...good luck.


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

Thanks for the tip Ryan. I have never used maple. I'll need to go to the lumber yard and check it out. I have used cherry before. I made some earthquake proof supports for a couple of stacked book cases in my library. I was not only impressed with how beautiful the wood was- but the 3/4" thick pieces I used were like iron.

I have a couple more questions for you guys out there-

1) How often do you use a miter gauge when routing? It seems that most router table work is done against the fence.

2) I like the idea of using a depth gauge for bit height adjustment. Does a bit guard get in the way?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Keep in mind soft maple and hard maple are two different species entirely. Soft maple weighs about half of hard maple. The cherry I have used was closer to soft maple.

Added bonus....about half the cost of cherry.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

Not sure if you've decided on a design/plan yet, but I thought I would throw in a suggestion that seems pretty easy to construct . . . *Steve Ramsey's Router Table & Fenc*e

There is a nice video Ramsey made taking you through the construction process as well.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/Gf5tRp35EEU



Just thought I'd throw in my two-cents worth.

:icon_cool:


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

Ryan/ Capt. Marvel-

I didn't get a chance today to look at the hard maple- will do it tomorrow. I took a look at the Steve Ramsey video- nice table. I thought the 3/4" laminated particle board on top of the 3/4" plywood made the top too thick. I still like the plexiglass/ acrylic idea. 

I also spent some time looking at the Kreg PRS3038 insert plates/ PRS3040 levelers. The 3/8" thick phenolic material shouldn't flex and the plate dimensions seem a standard size. All the reviews for the levelers themselves seem positive. Nobody mentioned anything about the pins backing out due to vibration etc. 

Any opinions re the necessity of a miter track or bit guard obstructing measurements?


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Have you considered building a work station that incorporates both your TS and router? You can make them portable to be pushed up against a wall when you need it out of the way. Im getting ready to do this myself except I'll be using levelers instead of wheels since I wont need to move it around.

Heres a thread I started to get suggestions. It has several pics and links with various ideas.....

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/table-saw-surround-57087/


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

Bass- I don't have a "TS" yet. I have been getting by all these years by having long cuts done at the lumber yard. if you are respectful and ask them to square up their blade prior to cutting they do a great job (I also have the reputation there that I'll buy them lunch!). This will all end this spring however. I will have put enough aside for the Bosch 4100.

As far as attaching a router table to the end of my saw station- I'm reluctant to do that. My brain needs a little more separation between tool stations to fluidly think the necessary steps ahead.

Also- in my case, all this stuff has to be moved indoors at night and when not in use.


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

Hey- I just returned from my project scouting trip.

Lumber Yard: I got some samples of hardwood to use for the fence, edge banding, etc. Brazilian Cherry, "Hard" Maple, and Birch. I'm gonna fool around with this stuff before making my final decision (the Brazilian Cherry- not American Cherry) is the stuff I was telling Ryan about a couple days ago. It currently sells here for $1.39 per board ft. The Birch is the highest at $3.39 pbf.

Lighting Store: I have a couple of the guys there looking at building me an Auxiliary Power Switch/ Box for the table. I want to Start/Stop my router and Shop Vac simultaneously.

Plastics Place: I found that using a Plexiglas/Acrylic top over my 3/4" plywood sub-base is a viable idea. This stuff is sold in mm thicknesses. I want a piece for the top that is 3/8" thick (Table Insert Plate Specs). He can get the thickness withing .00002". That's damn close! I also will be using the plate levelers sold by Kreg- so this should come together nicely. I just think using particle board is never a good thing and laminating plywood is making this project overly complicated. 

Any thoughts?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Where are you that you can get Brazilian cherry do 1.39 a foot? I can't get pine for 1.39 a foot here.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

A satisfactory router table doesn't need to be fancy. Mine is 3/4" plywood with Formica laminate on top. The base is 2x4's and 1x3 pine strips. I've used this for 20 years with a crappy Sears router. Soon I'm gonna replace that with a nicer router and add a miter slot to the table.

The switch can be a switched AC outlet mounted in a standard electrical box screwed to the apron. I use mine with a foot switch.


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## wood_chucker (Oct 18, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> Where are you that you can get Brazilian cherry do 1.39 a foot? I can't get pine for 1.39 a foot here.


My thougthts exactly


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

My Mistake...I'm rereading the receipt from the Yard. Jatobas3s (Brazilian Cherry) : Unit Price- $5.00. I bought .33 bf and was charged $1.65 for it. I bought 1 LF of Birch and was charged $3.49 for it. The Hard Maple was $2.49 per LF and I bought 1ft of that. All the sample pieces I bought today were 3/4"x4"x12".

Sorry for the misinformation (this cherry is REALLY nice!)


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

Hey Dave (Maylar) when you get a chance, I would really appreciate it if you could tell me how to post a photo into my messages. Thanks


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

When you reply or create a post, scroll to the bottom of the page and click, "manage attachments", then click "browse" and select the image. Once you have selected the images you want to post, scroll to the right of that box and click "upload", when you submit your post, your pics will be part of it.:thumbsup:


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

Like This!


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

The rcpt from the Yard today


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

The rcpt from the yard today


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*bench top router table*

I'm determined to get this (the receipt from the Yard today) through. Thanks for your patience


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

I got the wood today to make the fence and ordered the Kreg aux start/stop switch (I'll figure out how to mount it when it gets here).

I'm starting some measured drawings and I have a question for you guys- How useful would some type of reference marker be located on the router table top? I'm thinking of two inlaid metal rulers on each side of the table measuring from the front to the back.


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

I Heard back on the cost to make an auxiliary start/stop switch...$55 in just parts. Ouch! I ordered one built by Kreg.

Any thoughts on:

the importance of a miter gauge?

a bit guard being in the way of bit height adjustments?

Also- bit reducer rings (they thread into the insert ring like bushings). Whiteside makes an 8 piece set (woodriver.com #9510). Seems like a better answer than zero clearance rings. Any of you guys ever tried these?


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

*Benchtop Router Table*

re router plate reducer kit- I saw them on the Hartville website- not woodriver


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

I'd like to thank everyone who helped me in the process. I'm still not sure why no one could address my last couple of questions (ie need for a miter slot, etc.) but that's just as well. With some careful thought, I was able to work it out for myself. 
I completed the router table project a couple months ago. I discovered ironically enough that a perfect tool to have when building a router table is a router table! I followed Larry Okrend's plans but did change some stuff:

I added 2" to the inside height 
I added Jatoba edge banding to protect the plywood edges/corners
I attached the table top using brackets- no glue (I wanted the option of being able to replace that one piece if down the road I needed to)
I cut the hole for the insert plate using a $14 template from Woodpeckers (jig saw/ router with a flush trim bottom bearing bit)
Kreg Multi Purpose Power Switch
Kreg Insert Plate and Plate Levelers
Whiteside reducer rings and set up bars
I made a split fence system and had a local plastics company make acrylic false fences and two shims for joining
I made clamping blocks for the fence system and placed the star knobs underneath the fence "tails" to better accommodate the universal fence clamps
I figure the total cost of this project to be somewhere in the neighborhood of $300. But it is exactly what I wanted in a router table. I have been using it extensively and its now a tool I turn to frequently


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Looking good!!


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

No miter slot: use a sled indexed off the front edge instead. Miter slots are just a place for things to hang up.

You don't need any kind of index system for the fence. Use a witness block and shims instead, it is actually more accurate. If you need to move the fence forward a bit, put the shims between the front of the fence and a block. Clamp the witness block to the table loosen the fence clamp, remove the shims and push the fence against the witness block and clamp it in place. The remove the witness block.

I'd recommend you buy one of Bill Hylton's books, "The Router Table Book", or "Woodworking With The Router". Both are a wealth of information and well worth the price.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I opted for a combo track with bothe a miter slot and a mini t track for mine. I have used a miter guide in my old one and plan to on this one too.


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> I opted for a combo track with bothe a miter slot and a mini t track for mine. I have used a miter guide in my old one and plan to on this one too.


I decided that I would leave out the miter slot on the table surface and use a push block against the fence to support the work as it travels through the bit. This also helps prevent tear out. I am thinking that I may build a second set of split fences- if I do, these will have a miter track so I can use feather boards.


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