# Don't want to use coasters on the kitchen table!



## Ordinary Joe (Aug 6, 2012)

I recently applied 4 coats of waterbased polyurethane to a refinished maple kitchen table with great results, however I noticed that when using glasses without coasters that the finish took on a white haze when exposed to the sweating glasses. The haze resolved when allowed to dry. I know the easy answer is to use coasters, but feel that shouldn't be necessary on a kitchen table. 

The surface had only cured for 24 hours prior to use, will this become more resilient as it continues to cure?

Should I apply an oil based poly over the top? (not sure if oil based will even hold up to sweating glasses...)

What can/should I do??

Thanks for any advice!

Thanks!


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

It will get tougher as it fully cures, give it a few weeks and see how it does.
If you want the toughest finish an epoxy type finish would probably get you there.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Gary Beasley said:


> It will get tougher as it fully cures, give it a few weeks and see how it does.
> If you want the toughest finish an epoxy type finish would probably get you there.


+1. :yes:









 







.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> +1. :yes:
> 
> .


+ another 1. :yes::yes:


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

From previous posts, my opinion has been expressed that I am not a WB fan, the main reason is time. For a project taking 20 hours of work, finishing takes me no more than an hour. (Not counting 30 minutes for the seal coat to cure before scuff sanding and not counting 15 minutes between coats) The project is placed in service the next day.

I have not been able to that with WB finishes. The last one I tried was from one of the most reputable manufacturers, based on their recommendations I had to wait at least one week before buffing a table top (That already kills it for me) and after this the result looked like glass. A month later, all the wood grain re-appeared. Called them and the reply was I should have waited 4 weeks before buffing. This is OK for someone who has a lot of time on their hands, not OK for me.

This is a bit old, and a lot of new products have surfaced, but the linky makes good reading anyway.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Comparison_Test_of_WaterBased_Finishes.html


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Waterborne finishes are not as water and water vapor resistant as oil based finishes. However, even oil based finishes will allow water rings if water is left on the surface for a long period. Hot and cold items will be more likely to cause water marks. For the best water resistance, first apply a dewaxed shellac followed by 3-4 coats of a good oil based varnish. Oil based varnish takes 4-6 weeks to fully dry and cure. If not fully dried and cured, the finish will not provide its maximum protection.

If you really don't want to use protective pads, trivets or coasters, you might want to apply formica to the table top.


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## Ordinary Joe (Aug 6, 2012)

Thanks for all the great advice. I'm going to let it cure. Next time I'll be using oil based poly... Sorry Earth!

What finish do tables come with from the factory? They seem to be bullet proof.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Ordinary Joe said:


> Thanks for all the great advice. I'm going to let it cure. Next time I'll be using oil based poly... Sorry Earth!
> 
> What finish do tables come with from the factory? They seem to be bullet proof.


 It sounds like what you are describing is conversion varnish. It is probably not something that you can find at any retail outlet. You will more than likely have to find a professional finish supplier. I considered using it once but the supplier I use wanted $65.00 a gallon so I looked toward polyurethane. No telling how much they want for it now and it's possible they were just high priced.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> What finish do tables come with from the factory?

Factory finishes are generally fast curing two part pre or post catalyzed finishes. In some cases, kitchen tabletops are coated with polyester finishes. These finishes dry fast so the items can be quickly shipped and resist damage in shipment. The finishes can be rather dangerous to use so they are generally only used by professionals where a spray booth and air scrubbers are available. 

Probably the "toughest" amateur finish is an oil based interior varnish. However, these finishes take 4-6 weeks to dry/cure to a fully protective finish.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Great thread, and timely.

I just completed my first piece of furniture ever, a little side table made of oak for the living room. I used 3 coats of Danish oil, because that's what I had. :glare: It dried maybe a week before being used, and I already can see where someone left a glass. This table is slated to hold my chips and beer in another month.

Is Danish oil insufficient to protect against sweating glasses? Would it work better if I coated it and let it dry longer first? Or do I need to put on that interior varnish you mention instead? If I DO need to do that, do I have to sand out the danish oil before applying that?


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> Is Danish oil insufficient to protect against sweating glasses?

Yes, unless you let it fully dry and cure. I would give it at least 4-6 weeks. Of course, an oil/vanish mixture (aka Danish Oil) is not the finish I would choose for a surface that will get moisture, hot and cold glasses and dishes and any abuse except for the mildest form. It's not intended for those types of applications.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I did a walnut end table finished with only Danish oil about 3-4 years ago and it still leaves a mark. 
When that happens, I just rub a little on it and then it's good to go.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

HowardAcheson said:


> It's not intended for those types of applications.


Ya, I can pretty much confess that I used Danish oil...because it was what we had the most of. :thumbdown: Had a box of it sitting in the cabinet ever since we bought it at auction. I tried it on some test wood and it passed the spilled coffee test. Oh well.


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