# Water-based Poly on red oak ply.



## ianjeisenberg (Jan 6, 2012)

Alright folks here's the skinny. 
I'm building an end table for a family friend and it's gotta be perfect. I want her to think I went out and bought this thing. 
I'm using 3/4'' oak plywood I bought from Lowes and the project is just about ready for a finish. Ultimately, the topcoat will be water-based polyurethane. (Rustoleum)
I sanded the surface of some scrap (random orbit) with 80, 120, 220, raised the grain with water and hit it one last time with 220. Glass-smooth. When I put the Poly on my newly-surfaced scrap I encountered a problem, though. Even though the surface is well-sanded, after about 6 coats of poly I can still feel the grain when I run my finger over the surface. 
You know those dark, curved, cathedral lines on red oak? It seems like those lines have little tiny straws hiding in them that wick the polyurethane away from the surface. Everything BUT those dark grain lines looks perfect.

Y'all have never led me astray. What do you think? Keep slapping on poly until it finally seals over? Should I use sanding sealer before the poly? What about clear, de-waxed shellac?


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

I do not like the water based polyurethanes for furniture. Period.
I know that's not much of an answer but that's been my experience.

I've said this before and others will chime in....


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ianjeisenberg said:


> Alright folks here's the skinny.
> I'm building an end table for a family friend and it's gotta be perfect. I want her to think I went out and bought this thing.
> I'm using 3/4'' oak plywood I bought from Lowes and the project is just about ready for a finish. Ultimately, the topcoat will be water-based polyurethane. (Rustoleum)
> I sanded the surface of some scrap (random orbit) with 80, 120, 220, raised the grain with water and hit it one last time with 220. Glass-smooth. When I put the Poly on my newly-surfaced scrap I encountered a problem, though. Even though the surface is well-sanded, after about 6 coats of poly I can still feel the grain when I run my finger over the surface.
> ...


I wouldn't ever use 80x sandpaper...way too coarse. You may not get out that severe of an abrasion without perforating the veneer. 

I've been using waterbase polyurethane since I stopped using lacquer...about 25 years ago. I don't wet the wood first. For veneer faced plywood, I will lightly sand (with the grain) with 180x-220x, with open coat sandpaper, just to clean up any handling or tool markings. I sand in between coats with 320x (same type sandpaper). 

I apply thin sprayed coats 4-5 or whatever is necessary. The finish I get IMO is equal to look, feel, and durability of lacquer.










 







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