# Mission style bookshelf



## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

I'm looking at building some mission style bookshelves and have a few questions.

First, I was thinking it would be good to glue up a whole side at a time but that looks like 70 surfaces to glue in a very short time. If I build a jig to line up the pieces and use an extended set glue will I be ok or do I need to break it up into smaller sections?

Second, for a 28" span is 1/2" ply too thin or should I look at something thicker? 

Third, My sketch doesn't show it but I plan on using a face frame to hide the laminations and support the shelf. I also plan on adding a similar detail to the back side. My thought was that this would add strength to the shelf and help to hold the whole unit square. Is my thinking right on this or am I going about this wrong?

Forth, I don't have any clamps that will handle 30" spans and looking at my sketch it would appear that I would need 10 to do the job right. Can I get away with gluing the shelf in place and pining it with a few brads or are clamps still required?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Nice design those mission style shelves*

I'd make each side in 2 steps, but it's still a challenge to get all the pieces lined up perfectly. I'd use blue tape to prevent the glue from squeezing out on the insides where it would be difficult to clean out.
I'd also go sparingly on the glue to minimize that problem by using a method of measuring like a 1" long stripe or 3 drops, on samples so you get good coverage without excess. 
It looks like the dado for the shelves is at the top of the spacer blocks...I'd make it more in the center to cover the joint's top surface.
After you get the sides assembled then run the dados across for the shelves. For the final glue up, you'll still need some long clams or ratchet straps like motor cycle tie downs from HF ...4 @ $10.00 or so. "Norm" would probably pin nail at an angle from the inside, I donno, if that's necessary but it won't hurt and it won't show.

Quote:Third, My sketch doesn't show it but I plan on using a face frame to hide the laminations and support the shelf. I also plan on adding a similar detail to the back side. My thought was that this would add strength to the shelf and help to hold the whole unit square. Is my thinking right on this or am I going about this wrong?

A 1/4" back panel would be the strongest and hold the unit square, but may not fit the design. Racking will be a problem if the unit is moved when loaded. Books are heavy and 1/2" will not be strong enough for a shelf that long, 3/4" ply is better and a hardwood glue up would be best for a long shelf. I've made similar shelves with 12" wide red oak, with no appreciable sag over a 30" span.
Good Luck and get a patient helper! :thumbsup: bill


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## oniram (Aug 14, 2007)

I like 3/4 " ply for the shelves along with a face frame that will cover the plywood edges. I might consider extending the top so has to create an overhang and installing mission style corbels to the four corners.


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## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

Thank you for the replies. I have been on the road and haven't had the chance to reply. I do appreciate the time taken to reply.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

This project should not be that hard. You don't need to glue & clamp all the pieces at the same time. I would use a flat surface to work on. Cut all your long & short parts before you start. 

Stack all your long pieces together on edge & layout the position of all your short pieces across the edges with a square so they all line up the same(the darker your pencil line the more sanding you will have to do). Start with a long piece & glue up your short pieces & use a brad nailer to shoot them to the long front piece on your layout from the inside so no nails on front face (if using 3/4" material to build then use 1-1/4" brads). 

Then attach the next long piece to the short pieces shooting brads to attach to the short pieces. Alternate you shorts & longs till you have reached finished width. Then make the other side. There should be no nails showing when finished & done without needing clamps. Keep a damp rag handy to clean up any glue squeeze out as you go.


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