# Are all CSMs this slow?



## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

As I mentioned before, I don't mill much at all and my whole operation is small (Chainsaw = 18' Husqvarna, Truck = Ford Ranger, me = 5'10", 170 lbs.), so I was only able to get one tree when I was at my friend's new farm this morning. He wanted me to cut down a cherry tree that was in the horse pasture. My arm still hurts from where he had to twist it to get me to do that.

I only had time to cut one board out of a log before it started to rain today, so I covered the cut log with a tarp and will try again later. Anyway, I'll bet it's taking me about 30 full seconds to rip 12". That's about 4 minutes for an 8' log. It's slow. Is this normal for a CSM? Or if there's a problem, what could it be?

I bought the rip chains online (can't remember where) about 4 years ago. I sharpen them in between rips and they were this slow even when new so I don't think it's a sharpening thing. Could my saw be too light for the job at a mere 46 cc? The logs I've been cutting aren't that big.

Also, does a rip chain look much different than a regular crosscutting one? I was comparing the rip chains I bought to my regular chain and they look nearly identical (picture of the chain attached). Did they send me the wrong chain?

Although it would make me feel like a big idiot to find out I've been using the wrong chain, I'd love to find out I can mill faster with this thing.

The pictures attached are just meant to help determine any answers you might have.

Thanks,
Rob


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

I have no experience chainsaw milling...but I have ripped a log or 100. And bandmilled plenty of cherry. It cuts very easy green, so even though your saw is underpowered for milling I think it is the chain. I can't see the top view of the chain, that would tell me if it is ripping chain or not (but it does not look like it from the side). And you would be surprised what you _think_ is sharp on a chainsaw for ripping it may not be near sharp enough.


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

When I sharpen it, I grind the teeth at about a 30 degree angle. I found a website where guys were saying the chains need to be ground at 10 degrees and, on the same site, where someone said that you don't even need a rip chain (suggesting it's all a scam for more money).

Only got more confused there. Is it a difference in angle that makes it a rip chain? It wasn't fast the first time around, though, as I remember.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

10 degrees is a ripping chain, that'll help to do that. I have ripped with 10-15 degree chain and with 35 degree, the difference is noticable. And I rip with a modded 99 CC powerhead.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

This "chart" I have was brought up in another thread about sharpening in general.http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/sharpening-tools-9407/ Here is the zoom in on chainsaw chains, if it helps.


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## RHarkins (Mar 6, 2009)

When I had a couple ripping chains made for my Alaskan Sawmill by a chainsaw dealer, he completely ground off every 3rd tooth as well as re-ground the angle steeper. Your chain looks like an ordinary crosscut chain to me, as a rip chain sould have a lot fewer teeth than a crosscut chain.


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

I managed to get the angle at about 15 degrees on each tooth and decided to try it and see if there was any difference. It moved about 1/3 faster through the cut, so I'm going to work on getting them at 10 degrees.

I also really like the idea of grinding off every third tooth. I think I'll try that on one of the chains. Or I may find someone more skilled to get these right for me.

I'll be checking Craigslist for a beefier saw, too, I think.

Thanks for the help.

Rob


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Rock, I have tried every angle and I prefer 5º ~ that's not to say 5º is the best, only that I like it the best as a balance between speed, longevity, and smoothness of cut. Experiment like you are doing and you'll find what you like you best.

But here's something you won't read on most of the forums. At any angle you choose there's two things you can do that when combined with the 5º or 10º bevel (whichever you choose) will turn the chain into a true ripping chain.



Grind the rakers .010 (ten thousands) of an inch more than the recommended depth of the crosscut chain you are modifying.


Grind a 50º hook angle on the cutters if your machine will do it.
Re: grinding off every 3rd tooth that's just modifying a full comp to a semi-skip chain. Just buy a full skip and modify the bevel, hook, and depth. I didn't know you wanted to get serious with milling but it's a good decision to make it easier on your saw.


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

TexasTimbers said:


> I didn't know you wanted to get serious with milling but it's a good decision to make it easier on your saw.


I probably won't get very serious with it, considering the investment and what I already spend on woodworking tools, but I do want to make things easier on me and the saw. 

Thanks for the recommendations.

Rob


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

All your advice now has me cutting twice as fast as before. Still not fast, but I think it's all I'm going to get out of this little saw. I'll keep the logs small until I can get more cc's. Thanks, guys.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

That does look like a fairly small saw for the logs you are tackling, so I think you're doing pretty good with it.

Gerry


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## Kirk Allen (Nov 7, 2006)

Please wear chaps!

If you hit something solid in a log it can easily kick back and from the pics you legs would be toast. We have transported two chainsaw injuries this spring already and chaps would have prevented both injuries.


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## Dean Miller (Jan 29, 2009)

I mistakenly started with an oregon chain then changed to a rip filed at 15 degrees and was much happier with the results. Faster and much smoother cuts. I use a 365 husvarna, can't imagine going any smaller than that. Looking for a bigger one. These large oaks here work me to death. 




Don't put a solor wood kiln under a tree.:thumbdown:


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Hey Rock,

The best advice you have gotten so far is to wear chaps. Although that blade is hidden beneath the mill and you feel quite safe and in control, it doesn't take much to go from "no way I could cut myself doing this" to "Honey call 911!". 

A slight touch into the femoral and you're toast. Stranger things have happened. Here's a good pair at a good price from a company second to none in customer service and reliability.


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

You're right, TT, with one hand on the saw and one on the mill's handle, I did feel pretty safe. But you and Kirk are right. I'll get the chaps. Thanks for the link.

Rob


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## Kirk Allen (Nov 7, 2006)

Odds are it will never happen but if it does, you will thank the Good Lord for having them. 

Its kind of like keeping a fire extinquisher in the house. Chances of a fire are slim but its there if it happens!


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

well i use a husqvarna 445 with 16 inch bar with that same mill. have to sharpen every 2 cuts. using a standard chain


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## HomeBody (Nov 24, 2010)

Who makes that milling attachment? Gary


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

Granberg, Northern Tool is where i got mine from.


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

Yeah, it was a Granberg Alaskan Mill III. I kept it for a while, hoping to get a good deal on a bigger chainsaw. But then I found a guy nearby with a bandsaw mill that would saw up a log fast and cheap.

Ended up selling the chainsaw mill.

Rob


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