# New Guy Needs Advice for Crosscut Sled



## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

I am a beginner to woodworking projects. I just upgraded my table saw to a Dewalt dwe7491rs. So far I love it.

I decided to build a crosscut sled based on some of the wood whisperer video. I used 1/2 inch plywood for the base. I used 3x 1/2 pieces for the base fence and 2x 1/2 inch for the far fence. The base fence had a small bow in it but I felt like I got most of it out.

My issue is that I am trying to adjust got a straight 90 cut based on the video but I cannot seem to get it right. I followed the 5 cut strategy and the 2nd round improved but the 3rd round got slightly worse. Based on the strategy, the different between the bottom and the bottom thickness is .038. The top part of the cut is thicker than the bottom part.

Is there a better way? I have adjusted the fence 2x now so I have a ton of countersink scores hold now and am running out of room. I know my fence was not perfect but it wasn’t that bad. I’m a beginner so I want to make this good enough to confidently cut crosscuts without worrying about crooked cuts.


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## Iron & Branch (Dec 14, 2020)

djtech2k l said:


> The base fence had a small bow in it...
> 
> I know my fence was not perfect but it wasn’t that bad...
> 
> ...I want to make this good enough to confidently cut crosscuts without worrying about crooked cuts.


If your fence isn't straight, you're not going to get straight cuts. It's that simple. The biggest mistake you can make at this point is trying to compensate for one error by making another. Your best bet is to start over using 3/4" plywood. The added thickness will make your sled and fence more rigid and straight.

When you glue up your next fence, clamp it to a known flat surface like a 6' level until the glue dries.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Agree with the above post, you only have to make the sled once but you will use it for years.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

djtech2k l said:


> I am a beginner to woodworking projects. I just upgraded my table saw to a Dewalt dwe7491rs. So far I love it.
> 
> I decided to build a crosscut sled based on some of the wood whisperer video. *I used 1/2 inch plywood for the base. I used 3x 1/2 pieces for the base fence and 2x 1/2 inch for the far fence. The base fence had a small bow in it but I felt like I got most of it out.*
> 
> ...


Make a new fence. Use 3/4" thick straight and dry hardwood rather than a glue up. It should be at least 3" wide. The 1/2" base should be fine it it's flat. When you have made your first saw kerf, use a known "true" framing square to align the fence square to the kerf. You next step is to use a large enought piece of plywood to get a cut about 12" to 14" long. Make you cut and then flip the cut off end for end and fit it next to the first piece to see if it forms a straight line when they are placed on a flat surface. This is a common method to determine whether a cut is square to the bottom edge or the fence edge.
OR try this:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I do not know about any videos, but Woodsnthings procedure is very simple and to me foolproof. 1/2" is adequate for the base.

You do not mention your runners. What are they made of and do they fit the groovs?

George


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

djtech2k l said:


> I am a beginner to woodworking projects. I just upgraded my table saw to a Dewalt dwe7491rs. So far I love it.
> 
> I decided to build a crosscut sled based on some of the wood whisperer video. I used 1/2 inch plywood for the base. I used 3x 1/2 pieces for the base fence and 2x 1/2 inch for the far fence. The base fence had a small bow in it but I felt like I got most of it out.
> 
> ...


I know you are new so please do not take this wrong, just some common mistakes people make. Your sled base should be a decent quality ply for that purpose. Baltic Birch stays nice and flat, I like MDO for the smooth surface. Any decent American made cabinet ply will do. Before attempting this make sure your saw is set up properly, that the blade is perfectly parallel to the miter slots. An easy way to do this is, if you do not have a lot of tools, is to set the base of your combination square in the miter slot and run the edge of the ruler along the face of the blade with the blade all the way up. This is not a preferred method, but will get you by. If the blade is out of alignment with the miter slot than no mater how square you make the sled, it will not square up when checked. Only saying this as you should not be having the difficulties you are having. Make sure the runners fit snuggly and move after being waxed. Should be somewhat tighter than you would like, they will loosen up with time. You should not have to force them though. I like white oak for my runners. The main fence, near you, needs to be dead flat and S4S. I like to use 5/4 x 4. I really believe though that if you are having these issues, start at your saw setup.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Thank you all for the advice. Let me provide some more info. I know this does not change the advice but showing some context.

My base is 1/2" blondewood plywood. The back fence is 3 pieces of that same wood, glued and screwed. I saw a small bow in it so when I put it together, I put 2 big car batteries on it to make force it flat. The runners are oak 1x2. I would guess they are red oak, but its definitely oak. I used the runners with the 1" side in the channel. I did not have to cut it for it to fit. I cut strips for how tall they are. I do think I left them a little too tall because I can see some paint scraped off on the left channel. I ran a sander over them and then I put the paste wax on it and they slide very easily. There is a very small amount of plan in the channels. The runners fit fairly well in the channels. I can feel a very slight bit of play but it does not seem to be much.

I see some recommendations about using different wood for this stuff. I struggled to find good material honestly. I bought everything from my local Lowes and their selection sucks. They do not have a ton of options, a LOT of what I see there is not straight, and when it comes to plywood I am trying to by 2'x4' pieces because I don't really have a place to store a whole sheet of plywood even if it were straight. So my material options seem to very limited. That is the primary reason that I used these materials.

There are 3/4" 2'x4' pieces of plywood there. Based on the videos, I just thought the 1/2" glued/screwed would suffice.

I ran the 5 cut test 3 times. The first try the difference between the front part of the cut to the bottom was .104, the front/top was thicker. I adjusted the right part of my back fence back towards me and re-screwed. The 2nd run was .033, with the front part thicker again. I tried to move the fence again slightly from the middle near the kerf to the right side. Re-screwed again and did a 3rd round. The result of the 3rd round was a difference of .038. So the 3rd round got slightly worse, but still much better that the first round. The piece of wood I used for the cutting is about 17" x 13".

Since I am very new to table saw work, how good/bad is that difference? Is that terrible or is it usable? I do want to get this right but I also do not want to spend forever to adjust something that I may never see the difference.

My back fence is not perfect. It just isn't. It is not bad I don't think, but its not perfectly straight. The runner fit is not perfect but again it seems to be a very slight variation. Now that I have tried to adjust the fence at least 2x, I do not have a bunch of screw holes in the bottom of the base. I may run out of room if I keep adjusting lol. For the runners, I do not know what other material I could use. The 1x2 seemed perfect but if the width has any play, there is nothing I can do about that. For the fence, I suppose I could try to find a straight 3/4" plywood piece and use a piece or glue/screw 2 pieces together. I need to decide if I am going to take this thing apart and try to redo any parts of it or keep it like it is and consider it close enough.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

The back or rear fence doesn't come into the equation. A slight bow won't matter.
Make a new front fence and attach it on one end of your base as shown in the video. Square it up best you can with a framing square as shown in the video. The other end needs an oversize hole so you can adjust it easily. It will not take much adjustment at all. When it's square to the kerf, snug it down with a washer under the screw so it will still allow for adjustment. Make your cut on a scrap piece large enough to get a reliable length cut. If it's "off" decrease the angle by 1/2 the necessary amount. Test it with a framing square that's know to be "square" OR do the flip test with the cut off and determine the "gap" ..... if there is one? Change the fence position to reduce the gap and retest. You will eventually get too close to even measure. Then add more holddown screws on either side of the kerf and you're done. Retest if you are in doubt, but it should be good.

As far as your saw's alignment, blade to miterslot, blade to fence or the fence to miterslot .... it should be as close as possible, but don't fret over a few thousands. The sled will be aligned to the blade and will slide in the miterslots. Your first saw kerf into the sled will be the reference for adjusting the sled's front or main fence. The table saw's fence is out of the equation when using the sled.
🙃
For the complete sled build that I 'finally" made check this out. Mine's a bit different than most:








Table Saw Sled Build


So many threads on sleds. So I had to make one. I used 1/2" hardboard, like Masonite, for the sled. Maple runners. Oak for the front rail. I haven't decided to cut though the rear portion yet. I don't see the need so far. The semi-circular 5/16" slots for the "T" bolts were routed on the...




www.woodworkingtalk.com


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

If did try to remake the fence (the one closest to me), would the best option be to use 3/4" plywood? And should it be 1 layer or 2 layers thick?

It sounds like the .038 difference on the 5 cut test must be too much.

I had been following this as my reference: 146 - The Cross-Cut Sled - The Wood Whisperer


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

I just went to Lowe’s and bought a 2’x4’ piece of oak 3/4” plywood. It’s the only thing I could find that was even close to straight.

My current fence is 4” tall and 32” long, which the width of my sled. I am still consider if how I am going to move forward. Should I double up the 3/4” for the fence thickness?


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Welcome to the forum! Photos always help with things like this if you care to show us what you're working with.

David


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## Iron & Branch (Dec 14, 2020)

djtech2k l said:


> My current fence is 4” tall and 32” long, which the width of my sled. I am still consider if how I am going to move forward. Should I double up the 3/4” for the fence thickness?


Yes, double up the fence for thickness. It will give you something comfortable to grab ahold of. You could even do 3 boards if you wanted to. As I mentioned in my first reply, just make sure to clamp it to something flat so your fence dries straight. Some other tips:

If your finished fence is 4" tall, cut your pieces at 4 1/8" or so then trim to final dimension on the table saw. Also, after you've slathered glue on your boards for the glue-up, sprinkle some table salt. This helps give some bite, and your boards won't slip and slide so much.

Katz-Moses Stop Block - $32
36" T-track - $25

The above are cheap and will add a ton of functionality to your sled. Good luck!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Another way to make more accurate crosscuts is to use two miter gauges with a braced fence between them. It's a "sled" without a bed. The width limitation is still the short length of the OEM miter gauge bars, but aside from that, it's very controllable with longer boards. If you don't have a RAS or a miter saw with a long rear fence then this might be a cheap alternative for you:








crosscut sled/jig


This jig can be used for crosscutting longer boards as well as shorter ones on the table saw, usually an awkward operation. I rounded over the edges so it won't "hang up" going over the front table edge. By using 2 miter gauges you can make a cheap alternative to a sled. It doesn't reduce the...




www.woodworkingtalk.com


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

djtech2k l said:


> I just went to Lowe’s and bought a 2’x4’ piece of oak 3/4” plywood. It’s the only thing I could find that was even close to straight.
> 
> My current fence is 4” tall and 32” long, which the width of my sled. I am still consider if how I am going to move forward. Should I double up the 3/4” for the fence thickness?


Here is a fool proof way to square the fence to the miter slot.
Assuming the wood is flat. Remove fasteners from the base to the fence. Install one screw half way on the fence. This acts as a pivot. With the base upside down so the fence is down, push the base forward til the fence hits the saw table front edge. You may have to remove the rear fence temporarily. 
Now the fence is square to the table and also to the slots. Add more screws til the fence is secured .
Turn the base over and try a cut. The cut piece will be dead square. Sometimes the saw fence channel or angle iron may be in the way. Just do the same method on the rear of the saw table. 
Miter squares are made dead square the same way. The difference is no fasteners are used just the locking knob.

mike


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## David Nickell (Jul 6, 2020)

I have a Dewalt table contractor's saw, the one that folds up for transport/storage. I acquired an extra miter slide and connected a straight and planed board to the two of them. They run through the two slots in the table top, which allows me to attach stop blocks or add-on miter jigs and I am using the saws top for the bottom...no bottom or fabricated slides needed. It won't do everything, but its quick, easy and accurate. It's as accurate as the table's top and miter slots.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rather than aligning the sled fence to the miter slot, I would recommend aligning it square to the kerf in the sled. This will eliminate any variation which may exist between the blade and the slot being parallel. Of course, that would not be desirable, but they are not always factory aligned parallel or that easy for the home shop owner to align. There are many videos on You Tube to explain the process. I don't know how easy it is to do on a job site saw, I've only done it on contractor type saws, and it was no picnic. However, by squaring it to the kerf in the sled, you will guarantee that those cut will be square.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

David Nickell said:


> I have a Dewalt table contractor's saw, the one that folds up for transport/storage. I acquired an extra miter slide and connected a straight and planed board to the two of them. They run through the two slots in the table top, which allows me to attach stop blocks or add-on miter jigs and I am using the saws top for the bottom...no bottom or fabricated slides needed. It won't do everything, but its quick, easy and accurate. It's as accurate as the table's top and miter slots.


That's exactly what I did above. Do you have any photos of yours?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Here's a simple crosscut sled. It's simple but effective for cabinetry...


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## PA WOODCHUCK (Feb 11, 2018)

djtech2k l said:


> I am a beginner to woodworking projects. I just upgraded my table saw to a Dewalt dwe7491rs. So far I love it.
> 
> I decided to build a crosscut sled based on some of the wood whisperer video. I used 1/2 inch plywood for the base. I used 3x 1/2 pieces for the base fence and 2x 1/2 inch for the far fence. The base fence had a small bow in it but I felt like I got most of it out.
> 
> ...


 Have a link to wood whisperer video ? thanks


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Here is the wood whisperer video link mentioned. 146 – The Cross-Cut Sled

As I look at this thing, I am considering starting over. I really don’t want to but not sure how I can save this one. The kerf cut is all the way thru the base so if I remove the fence nearest me, I am thinking it would fall apart or have more alignment issues. My runners do have some play because I can see the is a little variation in the kerf line. It’s slight but I can see it. Honestly, I don’t even know what to use for the runner material then. I use the oak 1x2 and did not trim the width. I did sand a few spots a little bit to make it slide a little better.

So do you guys not use 1x2 for runners?

The more I look at it, nothing is perfect. I did but the quarter sheet of 3/4”oak plywood so I do have that but if I start over I will need to get new material to make a new base.

For kicks I measured the channel and it shows .7625. My runners are around .74x depending where I measure. I have extra 1x2 and it measure about .748x.

What should I do?

Here’s some pics.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Update:

I went to Lowe’s and bought a 2x4 piece of 1/2” maple plywood to make a new base. I have the oak 3/4” to make a new fence. I have an extra piece of oak 1x2 that seems to be a little bigger than the piece I used for the runners, so maybe this one will fit tighter.

So I guess I am starting over.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Do not lay the new pice flat down on a surface so the air can't get to both sides at the same time. Give it a thin coat of shellac and stand it up vertically. It will dry very quickly, then it shouldn't warp.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

So you are saying to put shellac on all of the wood before I build it?


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Ok so I am building a new one from scratch. I am mounting the runners now but I cannot get them to run smoothly. I’m afraid of working them too much and creating play. I mounted one side and then the other. It slides with some pressure and it seems to “hang” slightly in a few spots. I sanded them until they would fit in the channels. 

Should I sand them more, adjust them more, or keep going and wait to see how the wax helps it?


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Here are some pics of the new one in progress. I moved on to building the fence. Main fence is 2 pieces of 3/4” oak. It’s screwed, glued, and clamped. It looks straight to me so hopefully it stays that way. Letting the glue dry now and will attach it afterwards.


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## David Nickell (Jul 6, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> That's exactly what I did above. Do you have any photos of yours?


I'll try to take one tomorrow.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I dont put anything on my jigs other than wax. They seem to work fine.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

kwoodhands said:


> Here is a fool proof way to square the fence to the miter slot.
> Assuming the wood is flat. Remove fasteners from the base to the fence. Install one screw half way on the fence. This acts as a pivot. With the base upside down so the fence is down, push the base forward til the fence hits the saw table front edge. You may have to remove the rear fence temporarily.
> Now the fence is square to the table and also to the slots. Add more screws til the fence is secured .
> Turn the base over and try a cut. The cut piece will be dead square. Sometimes the saw fence channel or angle iron may be in the way. Just do the same method on the rear of the saw table.
> ...


Mike,
You lost me on your procedure. If the base is upside down, the runners will not engage the miter slots. What keeps the base aligned to the miter slots when one "push the base forward til the fence hits the saw table front edge." ?


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

I think hard maple makes better slides. it also "marks" better - slide in the slot, any binding spots show up easily.
I use a sharp chisel as a scraper - it's a bit more 'focused' than sanding. once the slides/rails are "done" I use polyurethane on them to minimize shrink/swell from humidity changes.

for the back rail I have a dressed 2x4. I did an over size hole from the top, screwed the other end fixed, applied glue, used a framing square to get it perfectly 90' over the sliding length to a single tooth on the saw blade. tighten the over sized hole&screw, then clamp to dry.

don't forget to double check the framing square beforehand - using the old [ a^2 + b^2 = c^2 ] - I do mine in mm - which one can read to 1/2 mm - much more accurate than 16ths/32nds.
why? I redid my whole shop - new bench, the works. set everything up from scratch. then found out my old steel framing square was not really itself square . . . .


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Ok I have pressed forward and here is the status.

I put on both fences. The main fence (nearest me) I put 1 screw on the left side and squared it with the kerf. I am using a new metal square so I sure hope it’s square. Once it looked square, I put a 2nd screw on the right side. I did not put any screws in the middle in case I needed to adjust.

While doing the 5 cut test, I noticed that the sled will slide fine and then all of a sudden it gets “stuck” and gets very hard to move. If I lift the sled so the runners come out and then put it back down, it will slide fine again. I had to do that a few times. I cannot figure out why it does this and why it just does it sometimes. It’s puzzling.

I ran the 5 cut test 2 times. The 1st result was a difference of .042 and the 2nd time it was .078. The cut seems to be bigger at the end closest to me.

I have triple checked: kerf is square, main fence looks very straight, there is no play/wobblingwhen the sled slides. I’m really at a loss for why it’s not straight and why the sled “hangs” sometimes.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

OK, loosen the right runner at the far end. Slide the sled and see if it"self adjusts " and will slide easier. If so, look at the hole and see if it's still aligned below. If not plug it and put another screw in a new/different hole. If that doesn't work try the right side runner and do the same. Either the miter slots aren't parallel, unlikely, or there may be a slight "bulge" in one of them. Take your newest and flatest mill file and run it down the vertical faces of the miter slots on both sides. I've done that on just about all my miter slots and they work great now.


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

djtech2k l said:


> Update:
> 
> I went to Lowe’s and bought a 2x4 piece of 1/2” maple plywood to make a new base. I have the oak 3/4” to make a new fence. I have an extra piece of oak 1x2 that seems to be a little bigger than the piece I used for the runners, so maybe this one will fit tighter.
> 
> So I guess I am starting over.


Did you check your blade for parallel to the miter slot?


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Ok I will try that tomorrow. Before I put on the fences, that is kind of what I did. There are a couple things that I forgot to mention that I wanted to.

I noticed that some areas of my runners have a gap between the base and the runner. It’s small but there’s some gaps. I think it’s just because the washers must have not made the runner stick up enough. It seems like every time I put in a screw it slides worse so I stopped trying to adjust. The last thing I did was some sanding and I waxed the runners and let it sit to dry.

The other thing I wanted to mention was that I do not have a screw in my right runner for about the first 4 inches on the side closest to me. I had one there but the runner started to split. It does not seem to move hardly at all and when the sled is in the channels it has no play.

I tried not to put in screws on the very edges to avoid cracking and also so that it would not be under the fence. If I needed to adjust I didn’t want a screw under the fence.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

B Coll said:


> Did you check your blade for parallel to the miter slot?


I did not check that. Not really sure how to do it. I certainly have not noticed it.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

djtech2k l said:


> I have triple checked: kerf is square, main fence looks very straight, there is no play/wobblingwhen the sled slides. I’m really at a loss for why it’s not straight and why the sled “hangs” sometimes.


Either your runners arent a consistent size, the miter slots arent a consistent width, or your runners arent straight. Any one of those can cause the runner to bind up


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

Dave McCann said:


> Mike,
> You lost me on your procedure. If the base is upside down, the runners will not engage the miter slots. What keeps the base aligned to the miter slots when one "push the base forward til the fence hits the saw table front edge." ?


I used this method to square a miter gauge to the slots. This method will not work as stated on a sled.. I feel like like an idiot for the post,


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

djtech2k l said:


> Update:
> 
> I went to Lowe’s and bought a 2x4 piece of 1/2” maple plywood to make a new base. I have the oak 3/4” to make a new fence. I have an extra piece of oak 1x2 that seems to be a little bigger than the piece I used for the runners, so maybe this one will fit tighter.
> 
> So I guess I am starting over.


You do not just buy a piece of wood and hope it fits. You CUT it to fit.

George


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

djtech2k l said:


> Ok I will try that tomorrow. Before I put on the fences, that is kind of what I did. There are a couple things that I forgot to mention that I wanted to.
> 
> I noticed that some areas of my runners have a gap between the base and the runner. It’s small but there’s some gaps. I think it’s just because the washers must have not made the runner stick up enough. It seems like every time I put in a screw it slides worse so I stopped trying to adjust. The last thing I did was some sanding and I waxed the runners and let it sit to dry.
> 
> ...


There's no real need for screws in the runners if you have them raised above the surface and use glue and weights on top. The screws "may" tend to bulge the runners or split them as you have discovered.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

I did not use glue on the runners. I was concerned about adjustments so I used screws. 

I plan to work on this again today. I plan to test the runners since I waxed them.

So what could be causing the results in the 5 cut test? Nothing seems out of square that I can see.


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## Elden Cozort (Oct 30, 2018)

djtech2k l said:


> Here is the wood whisperer video link mentioned. 146 – The Cross-Cut Sled
> 
> As I look at this thing, I am considering starting over. I really don’t want to but not sure how I can save this one. The kerf cut is all the way thru the base so if I remove the fence nearest me, I am thinking it would fall apart or have more alignment issues. My runners do have some play because I can see the is a little variation in the kerf line. It’s slight but I can see it. Honestly, I don’t even know what to use for the runner material then. I use the oak 1x2 and did not trim the width. I did sand a few spots a little bit to make it slide a little better.
> 
> ...


To "save" the base you could glue a strip of wood or plywood to the edge of the base before you remove the fence. This would probably hold it in position. When I make a sled I always try to position the fence so that it is about an inch in from the edge of the base. Also, since your sled overhangs on the left of the saw top, you could clamp the fence to the base (instead of screwing it) while you make your adjustments and after you get the 90 degree you want screw it in place.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Ok so I may have some progress on my new sled.

Since I sanded and waxed last night, it is not hanging like it was...so far at least.

I took some pictures of the sled with my square on it. It is very hard for me to see with the square but maybe the left side has a fractional difference. In all of my 5 cut tests, I have been putting the wood on the left side of the blade. I decided to try the Test on the right side this time. I used the same exact piece of wood as in all the other tests so it’s getting small now lol. Anyway, the result was a difference of .013. It was a much better result. So the right side is more accurate than the left. So my guess is to move the left side of the fence forward now.

Am I missing anything?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Check your square for "square" before going any further. If you are going to use a square for the setup, that's fine. Howeber, the best test is the "cut and flip and look for a gap" method in my opinion. For that you need a flat surface and a board with parallel edges. You make one cut across, filp the board upside down and butt it against the edge you cut to see if there's a gap. If there's no gap, you're good to go. If there is a gap, your fence is off by 1/2 the angle. Readjust and repeat the test.
To check a square for square, line up the short leg on the edge of a straight edged surface and scribe a line all along the long leg. Now flip the square over and realign it so it a fraction of an inch away from your line and then scribe another line right next to the first one. Any deviation from parallel in between the two lines is the amount the square is not "square". Using a center punch, make indents either on the inside corner to expand the long leg, or on the outside corner to decrease the angle. It won't take much to change it.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

I started typing this message before I saw your last post.

I just moved the left side forward. 5 cut test shows a difference of .027 now. 

So right now 5 cut shows a difference of .027 on the left and .013 on the right.

Should I keep adjusting the left or is that an acceptable difference?


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

djtech2k l said:


> I did not check that. Not really sure how to do it. I certainly have not noticed it.


it's also not of any issue. if the blade is slightly out of parallel you'll get a wider kerf, not a crooked cut.

definitely check your square. I went to HD to buy a new one - measured and did the math on four 'brand new on the peg' squares before I found one within 0.5 mm of what it should be.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Just made another adjust on left. 5 cut is now .006 difference.

I’m going to add more screws to the fence and run 5 cut with a new piece of wood.


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## djtech2k (Dec 19, 2020)

Ok I think I may have it dialed in now.

Left side is a diff of .005 and the right side is a diff of .006 in the 5 cut test. Can I assume that this is accurate enough to accept?


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Bingo!


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