# T-111 question



## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

Isn't T-111 plywood treated? I always thought it was. I went to Lowes yesterday and didn't see it so I asked an isle guy. He had never heard of it. Then we found what I thought looked like it but it wasn't labeled T-111, it was something else that I can't remember. I didn't buy it but now I am wondering if maybe they quit making it. I want to build some birdhouses and I thought T-111 would work. Cedar will work but if I can find T-111 it would be a lot cheaper.


----------



## WoodRic (Jun 17, 2009)

Try a siding supply house.
I don't think they call it T-111 anymore though. But yeah, it's just treated plywood, with vertical "grooves" cut in it.


----------



## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

ok. Will the glue hold up to weather also?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Home centers here carry it. It's not treated, usually SYP plywood in 3/8" and 5/8" thicknesses. Vertical grooving is either 4" O/C or 8" O/C, and the two long edges are machined for shiplapping sheets for siding.


----------



## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

OUr local Lowes and Home Depot carry T - 111, but both use different brands and may call it by another name. If your salesperson isn't up to par, they probably wouldn't know what T-111 is. Hell, I asked for double sided carpet tape at lowes one day, and 4 sales clerks never heard of it, including the carpet department guy. 

It needs to be sealer or painted, or it will rot and mold just like plywood. It is a PITD to paint, If I did my shop all over again, I would have just bought painted steel sheeting.


----------



## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

> Hell, I asked for double sided carpet tape at lowes one day, and 4 sales clerks never heard of it, including the carpet department guy.


Unbelievable. I asked for double headed nails and the hardware guy never heard of them. Sheesh. Where do they get these guys? So, then I looked a little harder and found a box of them and when I showed them to him he said "Wow, I've never seen those kind of nails."


----------



## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Lumber yards...real ones...carry T-111.
Spraying paint is easiest. Thick nap rollers will work.
Tite Bond III will work for out door applications. Especially if it's painted.


----------



## Just-a-Guy (Apr 13, 2010)

Isn't T-111 used all the time as an exterior sheating, often as the final layer without any paint over it? I always assumed it was an exterior grade plywood (ie, glues will hold up to water), but not a treated plywood.


----------



## garryswf (Aug 17, 2009)

*T-111*

Bud i sent you a PM


----------



## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

My 5 cents on T1-11
T1-11 started in the late 70s to early 80s and got popular as an inexpensive means to provide structural integrity and a finished surface at the same time. The problem with it is that it isn't overly stable in respects to weather tight integrity. 

The lap joints aren't enough to act as a forever seal and caulking doesn't remain pliable forever. The panels move around too much and in general most people don't supply proper on time maintenance. Most of the houses I've done repairs on were sided in the early 80s, water invades between laps, makes it down to the sill plates and sub floor and rots them.

In the mid to late 80s when super insulated houses were getting popular and water/rot damage was starting to show up regularly with the T1-11 houses they got the idea to add a poly barrier to the ext. sides of the studding on new construction, that way the water would slide past the plates sub floor and box. 

The T1-11 continued to rot from the inside out. Some tried hiding it by shingling over the T1-11 without removing the rot, and as you know rotten wood calls termites and ants with a resoundingly loud and persistent dinner bell.

T1-11 is fine for barns and sheds that don't have a dead air space between the inner and outer walls. The panel will still rot, but if it can breath and is properly maintained it'll last longer. 

Quality requires sheathing and siding.


----------



## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

Ghidrah, That explains a lot. So, I am gathering that it would be an ok product to use for birdhouses if I painted or stained it. It won't last forever, but that's ok. I sell them another birdhouse in 5 years. It is definately a lot cheaper than cedar. And the cedar has a tendency to split.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TS3660 said:


> Ghidrah, That explains a lot. So, I am gathering that it would be an ok product to use for birdhouses if I painted or stained it. It won't last forever, but that's ok. I sell them another birdhouse in 5 years. It is definately a lot cheaper than cedar. And the cedar has a tendency to split.



Paint would last longer than stain, and paint all surfaces, both sides, and all edges. I use a brush to get good coverage.


----------



## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

The other day I was buying something at HD and the girl was kinda crabby so at checkout I asked her if they had any f15 tailhooks,you know the hook that stops the plane on aircraft carriers,she asked someone over the intercom for assistance in locating the f15 tailhooks.After she announced it I said "Thats ok I'll get em next time"hehehe.


----------



## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

It's sad that know one seems to know their jobs anymore.

I was trying to buy ammo the other day at Wal-Mart but I couldn't because only the dept manager was there who didn't know how to run the register, Plus i had to check out in sporting goods with ammo.

As for the T1-11 for bird houses your right you want to sell them another one in a few years. If you make it to good it won't need to be replaced and will cost to much for people to buy. :yes:


----------



## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Im with ghidrah, storage barns and sheds. 

I used it because I have a free standing building with wierd angles. I thought I would save some time by simply using the T 1 11. Well, all the surplus time I had after installing it on the ends of my building, I spent painting the damn stuff. I had to lay down an immensly thick layer or primer, and two heavy coats of paint. I tried spraying one side, but after I thinned my paint for my gun, it simply absorbed into the T 111 like a sponge. Probably didn't have the right gun or paint for it, but Im not a paint expert, and apparently the paint guys at HD aren't either.


----------



## unisawyer (May 7, 2010)

T1-11 Is more of a description of the pattern than it is a "type" of material. Thus T1-11 can be made by any manufacturer out of any material. It usually comes with 8" or 4" on center grooves 8" is common.


----------



## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

HD, Lowes and Wal-Mart have associates not knowledgeable tradesmen. The stores won't pay to have the informed in their ranks.

The only purchase ever in a box store was my 12g Mossberg pump at Mammoth Mart before they went out of biz in our town 36 yrs ago. I always bought from gunsmiths, there were 3 shops within 20 miles back then.

28 to 30 yrs' back Uncle Sam allowed a number of importers to buy up tons of US M1 and M1 carbines left behind in Korea. Sears got a bunch, (they still sold rifles and shotguns in our area). I bought and was assured they were original. I already had a 30-06 bolt and discovered I couldn't chamber a round when I got it home. 

I took it to the gunsmith, within 3 to 5 secs he said it was an import. Back then at least all imports had the importers stamp on the barrel which he found as he slid his hand over it. After some disassembly he said it had been modified with non US parts. All US wep manufacturers use IDs on all parts for replacement, none of the trigger parts had any ID. I took it back for a refund and schooled the manager with my new knowledge


----------

