# Band Saw Milling Help



## JamesN (Jan 11, 2017)

A neighbor recently chopped up a tree that was downed in a storm a while back. I was able to get one of the pieces, which i believe is cherry.

I just got this old Craftmans 12" Band Saw and have never resawn or milled a log before. I made a sled/fence for the log to sit on so it won't roll and had the idea to use plywood shims on the fence side so i could make perfect 1/2 or 3/4 thick cuts. 

I knew all along that the log was a tad bit too big to fit on the band saw but thought i would figure it out. But now that i've gotten to this point i'm kinda stuck. I thought about cutting the 2ish extra inches off on the table saw but the log is round and bowed, plus my Hitachi table saw has a 2-3/4 depth of cut, so that doesn't help.

Does anyone have some ideas that could help me out? Also, i have included a pic of the exposed face of the wood among the other pictures. What kind of wood is that? I think it's Cherry, but not totally sure. 

Thanks - James


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Do you have a jointer? You might flatten and straighten the log on a jointer. By then perhaps it will fit the saw. It would certainly be easier to saw with the log straightened.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

> What kind of wood is that? I think it's Cherry, but not totally sure.


I could be incorrect, but that does not look like a hardwood...sorry. It appears to be a conifer of some species...and...it has some pretty clear "reaction wood" inside of it so not something that most would mill, and those of us that do, use it for very specific tasks in traditional woodworking...

Blade in that saw is probably not going to be very good for "resaw work." If you still want to give it a shot...Snap lines on the bolt (aka section of log) and kerf with chain saw to said lines. This is similar to creating "juggles" for hewing work with an ax or adz. Once kerfed, knock off waste, hand plan flat with Scrub Plan, and try milling...


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## JamesN (Jan 11, 2017)

No, i don't have a jointer

Jay, By reaction wood, do you mean the darker wood in the middle? I throughly it was cherry because in the pile of logs that i could choose from, the outside was a tan-ish orange and the darker wood in the middle was a darker tan/orange, like how cherry sometimes appears to look. It is fairly soft, but I drew it up to be from the heavy rain we just had, 

I think i may still try milling it. Even if it fails, i will learn from my mistakes and have some practice for next time. 

What blade would y'all suggest? I got that blade from Olson Blades, or Olson something, can't remember. But it's stand new and said that it is ideal for resawing rough lumber. I do have some hand planes that i could use to flatten one side. Instead of using a chainsaw or hand saw, would kerfing in the table saw work?


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Hi James,



> Jay, By reaction wood, do you mean the darker wood in the middle?


No Sir, it is the way the annular rings present themselves in the end of the bolt. There is a far amount of tension inside that little section of word. I larger bolts like this, we mill/hew such pieces for cantilevered beams and/or beam that can take advantage of this woods natural desire to move in a certain way. Small piece like this would/could also be use for natural arches in door jambs that take load, or in certain furniture pieces like rockers in a chair...etc.

As to species, I can't tell for certain from a photo, but the "felting" (fuzzing) of the cut is indicative of pine or spruce. 



> I think i may still try milling it. Even if it fails, i will learn from my mistakes and have some practice for next time.


From an experienced learning perspective...this is a perfect piece of wood to learn on. It won't matter if you make mistakes and...so called "bad wood" teaches students some of the most valuable and hidden lessons that wood has to teach. You will really learn much seeing how this wood moves as it dries. As you might garner form my other posts, I work in almost exclusively green wood, and as such the Folk Styles that employ it most...including Timber Frames. 



> What blade would y'all suggest?


Can't really tell from the picture...but whatever is recommend for this saw for "resawing" which is usually a much wider blade (e.g. 20 mm or more if it can handle it) otherwise you may have to move really slow and get waves in the boards anyway...



> I got that blade from Olson Blades, or Olson something, can't remember. But it's stand new and said that it is ideal for resawing rough lumber.


If that is the case...Go for it and see what you get... 



> I do have some hand planes that i could use to flatten one side. Instead of using a chainsaw or hand saw, would kerfing in the table saw work?


Yes...???...but way harder to do (seen it done) very dangerous (seen the accident from the attempt), and not what I would care to recommend to anyone, but you could give it a shot if you think you have an idea that will work (safely I hope?)

Handsaw (slowest but safest) or Chainsaw (if you are comfortable with it) is the two easiest methods I have used for getting a facet on a bolt...

With small bolts this size, I have student practice their skills at ripping. It would take less than an hour (maybe 1.5 at most for a novice) to rip this with a good (pull stroke) ripping saw. It's not really that hard to do...

Regards,

j


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I have done some bandsaw milling*

The trick is getting a flat on the log to prevent it from rolling as you cut. There are a few ways including exactly what you have done. A 90 degree "sled" made from 2 boards, one to support the log, the other to keep it from rolling. This thread has some other tips including one where I use a hand held power planer to make a flat on the log:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/need-help-resawing-13041/










Here's my bandsaw resaw sled:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/cross-cut-sled-band-saw-9638/










As far as blades go, I use a 3 TPI blade 1/2" wide. I thank that little saw you have may take one like that. You may find that saw a bit underpowered as well, but not much you can do about it. The saw above is an 18" Min Max with 3 HP, so it doesn't bog down very much. That Spalted Maple was plenty hard to cut even for the big saw.


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## JamesN (Jan 11, 2017)

Thanks Jay, that information is very helpful! 

I only have 1 chain saw and it doesn't turn on and off realiabley, so i'm not really comfortable with using it. I might just take the slower route and kerf with a hand saw. How often should i cut a kerf in it, 3", 5"? 

And aside from stacking the wood with shims in between each, do i need to do anything else to aid in the drying process? Like add some weight to the top of the stack or something? 

Also, in case I somehow turn my first milling into a success, how long do i need to let the boards dry for? And is there anything i can do to get it to dry faster?


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Hi James,



> ...I might just take the slower route and kerf with a hand saw. How often should i cut a kerf in it, 3", 5"?


This sounds like a really good plan...

3" to 5" is about correct, but you have to see how the "juggles" (aka the area between kerfs) takes to getting knocked off by a wedge or chisel. Keep moving the kerfs closer together until you find a happy balance.

The "slow part" is relative. I figure since I can use minimal tools and make a beam 15 meters long (~50'), and as large as a big tree can yield, in just a few hours on sight...It is a pretty fast method for a creating a really expensive beam...In your case with what I see in the photo, we are talking about a flat registration facet on your bolt created in under 30 minutes...



> And aside from stacking the wood with shims in between each, do i need to do anything else to aid in the drying process? Like add some weight to the top of the stack or something?


Not "shims" but "stickers" and they should be of hardwood if possible, or in a pinch 1" water pipe cut in half. I band my bolts that are fletched out (aka cut into boards.) You could use small ratchet straps and then it makes moving the small bolt easier. It also allows to store the wood in a better drying position...up on end with small blocks keeping it off the ground/floor. 



> Also, in case I somehow turn my first milling into a success, how long do i need to let the boards dry for? And is there anything i can do to get it to dry faster?


I work in green wood almost exclusively so not an issue for me being green. For you, if you want it dry, and this size bolt, I would say a minimum of 6 months to 1 year. Rushing the drying process is not something I would ever recommend. I can tell you that you need to End Seal that bolt as soon as possible. It should have been sealed right after it was first cut. Drying wood fast is not a good practice and something that is only happened in the last 50 years with current trends in modern woodworking. Very few have the skills (and equipment) to fast dry wood that is of any quality...and even then there is loss.

Regards,

j


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## JamesN (Jan 11, 2017)

The end seal is that waxy stuff that comes on the end grain of most exotics right? where can i find that?

I have already kerfed, chiseled and planed the board down (way longer than 30 mins haha) I also went ahead and made a quick fence.

Once I placed the log, or bolt (do you know why it's called that?) onto the sled, i realized that i still needed to take like 2 inches off. I have no idea how i messed up involved that...i followed the rule "measure twice, cut once" but apparently something went wrong. 

I'll probably go searching for another, smaller log tomorrow after school if it's not raining (haha only 15 yrs old). But, it would fit if I take the band saws guide system off. Only 2 screws. And it's not really like they would be adding much for these cuts right? it's just barely 3" to the tires inside the saw. 

And I think you're right about it being spruce...looks just like it under the bark when I was planing.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*likewise ...*

This term "bolt" of wood is not familiar to me either. We have usually referred to the squared portion of a log as a "cant" in all the discussions I have read. Lumber mills and sawyers use that term also as wood in the cant:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Understanding_the_Sawmilling_Term_Cant.html

Aside from the obvious definition ... nuts and bolts, I am familiar with the term "bolt" used in the sewing industry for the roll of cloth from which smaller portions are cut for use by dressmakers and the like. 
A bolt of vinyl would be found in an upholstery shop:
https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/c1296_fabric-by-the-bolt-wholesale-fabric-vinyl-by-the-bolt


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## JamesN (Jan 11, 2017)

Ok, thanks for the clearing it up. 

Do you think removing the guide assembly on the band saw is a bad idea? I really don't want to kerf/chisel/plane another 2 inches off. The tires in the band saw are just about 3" away from the material, would that still make the blade bend or wander a bit? I'm not totally concerned with the quality of the cut on this one because i think i should practice and experiment with cuts before i go find some hardwood logs, because then i would be bumbed if i ruined it. I just wanna make sure that it won't cause any harm to the saw or me if i take it off. 

Hahaha, i'm not sure if it's called a guide assembly, but i mean the little cage thing that drops down around the blade and houses the guide blocks and rollers.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

*Trees, Logs, Bolts and Cants*



> The end seal is that waxy stuff that comes on the end grain of most exotics right? where can i find that?


Googling "end sealer" will give you links. Anchor Seal is probably the most common, and there are perhaps better varieties but the cost much more...without perhaps doing that much better a job at sealing. 



> Do you think removing the guide assembly on the bandsaw is a bad idea?


Strongly not recommended! 

I think it great that you are getting into woodworking at a early age. I started much younger and by 13 was working with Old Order Amish as an apprentice Barnwright and traditional woodworker...You will have a huge jump on others if you stick with this...Woodworking (of many forms) can offer all manner of career if you really take to it! 

>>>



> This term "bolt" of wood is not familiar to me...


In the logging, and sawyer industries in the days of old, but still regionally used in some areas, the term *Log, Bolt and Cant*, are specific to different levels of processing harvested trees. 

When a tree is harvested and staged on a *Log Landing* the trees are in there most complete state. Traditionally (and among the better timber framing companies) we want to see Logs as trees in a forest first, or in log form before any further process takes place if at all possible. If we are unable to do this, there must be a lot of trust with a Sawyer, that they understand wood really well. 

Once a Log has been assessed for best yield or purposing, be it board, or timber it is cut into more manageable 
and processable sections. These sections are called *Bolts*. *Bolts* can be moved much easier than entire logs and stored for long periods of time if need be for some applications. Once a *Bolt* has been milled or hewn into a rectangular or square forms it becomes a *Cant* before it moves onto layout or further processing...


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## JamesN (Jan 11, 2017)

Jay, Thank you for all the great information. You really helped me out. I really appreciate it. 

I don't want to KCP (Kerf/Chisel/Plane, haha new acronym) the bolt again, and the wood pile doesn't have anything smaller. I'll just keep a look out for some nice ones, hopefully I'll find some soft woods to start so I can practice. 

Thanks - James


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