# Outfeed table for Ridgid TS3650 or TS3660



## TS3660

I know there was a thread here somewhere of someone that built an outfeed table for their Ridgid table saw but I can't find it. Can anyone help?


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## Ledhead

Bud, 
Is this what you are looking for? 

http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7542


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## TS3660

That's not the one I saw but it's much better. Thank you. Now I can get to work on one.


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## Ledhead

I'm going to break down and build one too. I'm tired of using a stool with wood and plywood stacked on top. Good luck with your outfeed table.


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## splinter2

*Outfeed Table*

Yes i need one to, how do you extend it off your Table saw, from the pictures i cant tell, But it looks as if they used aluimin (sp)...


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## TS3660

Yes, aluminum. But I am in the process of building one now and I am going to use wood to support mine. I'll post pics when I'm done.


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## rrich

*Beware ! !*

Bud,
You need to remember to create enough clearance for the motor of your saw when it is cutting a bevel.

DAMHIKT!

BTW - My out feed table used window cut outs from Masonite clad particle board doors, about 2 inches thick. The motor would stop the saw from making any bevel cut greater than 30° or so. With a couple of hours and a very sharp chisel I was able to fix the problem.

BTW2 - My approach was to attach the table to the saw. (A few 1/4x20 bolts) I did use legs at all corners for weight support purposes. The advantage of attachment is two fold. First, the motor clearance issue and second the miter slots stay aligned, almost.

BTW3 - Put your router with an old 3/4 bit in the existing miter gauge slot. Clamp a long straight edge (2x4) to your rip fence and use it as a cutting guide. You should only need to cut into the out feed table about 12" for full miter gauge clearance. After making the 3/4 cut into the out feed table, do it again but use a 1" bit. DON'T change the setting of the rip fence between the 3/4 & 1 cuts. (A 1-1/4 bit would probably be even better.) You'll probably have to clean out the end of the cut closest the saw using a chisel.
(Router bits don't really like cast iron. Again DAMHIKT!)


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## woody woodturner

what about expendable rollers we have a few at the club and when your finished you back them away:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## TS3660

rrich said:


> Bud,
> You need to remember to create enough clearance for the motor of your saw when it is cutting a bevel.
> 
> DAMHIKT!
> 
> BTW - My out feed table used window cut outs from Masonite clad particle board doors, about 2 inches thick. The motor would stop the saw from making any bevel cut greater than 30° or so. With a couple of hours and a very sharp chisel I was able to fix the problem.
> 
> BTW2 - My approach was to attach the table to the saw. (A few 1/4x20 bolts) I did use legs at all corners for weight support purposes. The advantage of attachment is two fold. First, the motor clearance issue and second the miter slots stay aligned, almost.
> 
> BTW3 - Put your router with an old 3/4 bit in the existing miter gauge slot. Clamp a long straight edge (2x4) to your rip fence and use it as a cutting guide. You should only need to cut into the out feed table about 12" for full miter gauge clearance. After making the 3/4 cut into the out feed table, do it again but use a 1" bit. DON'T change the setting of the rip fence between the 3/4 & 1 cuts. (A 1-1/4 bit would probably be even better.) You'll probably have to clean out the end of the cut closest the saw using a chisel.
> (Router bits don't really like cast iron. Again DAMHIKT!)


rrich, thanks for the tip on how to rout the outfeed table. Sounds good.

I did know about the motor clearance issue and I don't have an issue. Probably because of 2 things. One, my top is only 3/4" thick where the motor comes up (but the top is 1 1/2" thick around the perimeter underneath). Two, I moved the motor as far to the right (as you look at it from the back) as possible and then relocated the motor pulley back to the left to keep the belt aligned.


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## rrich

TS3660 said:


> Two, I moved the motor as far to the right (as you look at it from the back) as possible and then relocated the motor pulley back to the left to keep the belt aligned.


Now that is a very clever solution!


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## TS3660

*Outfeed table is done*

And it works great. No complaints so far and no druthers. I got the countertop for free and trimmed it in cherry. I had it, so I used it. The leg hinges are from Rockler. They work great.


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## TS3660

*A few more pics*

Here's a few more pictures


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## TS3660

Here's the last of them.


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## rrich

You had to cut a bit of clearance for the motor just like I had to with my old Jet. My top was a lot thicker so the hole was a lot deeper. :thumbsup:


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## TS3660

Yep. I thought I wasn't going to have to but I had to. Not much. Moving the motor certainly helped.


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## Ledhead

very nice!


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