# Shelf gap



## B77 (9 mo ago)

Hello,

I am building shelving with pocket holes. One shelf that I cut and installed has a 1/4 inch gap. The pocket screws do reach and connect to the adjacent vertical support - though they don't go in very deep.

What should I do here? Get longer screws? Should I put small shims in the gap and then use longer screws (to better penetrate the vertical support)? 

Do I have to cut a new shelf and disgard this one over 1/4 inch?

(Out of pride: what you see in this picture is just primed, not yet painted.)

Thanks in advance for your guidance!


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

Ah, The old "I Cut it off twice an it's still too short". I'd remeasure and cut a new piece as you have to think about loading on the shelf.


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## swp (Dec 17, 2021)

It is not clear what the problem is. Are the uprights straight and plumb? Answer that first. If the upright is bowed, then the cleat attaching it to the wall may be too long. Of the shelf is too short. Longer screws may be part of the answer, but only after you have determined if the uprights are straight. Measure across the top, bottom, and where the gap is. They should all be the same. If not, something running horizontal is too long or too short.


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## DesignsforDIY (Jan 3, 2022)

I would cut a new piece, anything else will look kludgy.


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## B77 (9 mo ago)

The uprights are straight and plumb. This shelf is one of three - the two others are 1/4 inch longer.


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## JIMMIEM (Oct 12, 2014)

How about cutting a 1/4" piece of your material and glue/screw it to the end of the shelf. You'll be painting it so you should be able to make the seam disappear. Redo the pocket hole locations or get longer screws and use the current locations. You could also screw through the vertical sides into the shelf ends and plug/paint the screw holes.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

You can also cut the other 2 shelves to match and make the cabinet 1/4" narrower if it isn't glued up yet.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Simple fix, glue a strip onto the edge. Its not supporting anything, just space occupying.

Are pocket screws really the best option for fastening shelves? From the bottom?


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## B77 (9 mo ago)

Thank you all so much for your replies and help here.

One last question: when cutting shelves, what does "good" look like in terms of how close each shelf is in width? Right now I'm cutting the shelves (most are 33 inches wide). Getting them all to be precisely 33 inches wide seems to be incredibly difficult. They're usually within 1/8th of an inch of each other. Is that sufficient for pocket holes/screws?


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## JIMMIEM (Oct 12, 2014)

If the shelves are different lengths you may pull the sides out of square. Is the carcass assembled yet? There are ways to get them all the same length depending on your tools. If it's a real problem to get them square how about using shelf cleats. With cleats the shelves won't have to be exact...they will just rest on and be supported by the cleats.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Most of us would use either a stop block and miter saw or a sled and tabke saw. Without these one way is to cut one shelf as a pattern then rough cut the rest and use a router and flush trim to make them all the same. The top and bottom would be the same as the shelves.

Side issue but I still think you need to get away from pocket screws. 1) they’re isn’t a lot of thread capture, 2) if you’re screwing from the bottom the weigh of the shelf is relying totally on the thread strength, 3) the holes are unsightly even if on the bottom.

If you want this to last screw from the sides or use cleats.


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## B77 (9 mo ago)

Thanks for that information - very helpful.

I think the path of creating a template, rough cutting the rest, and then using a router to flush trim may make the most sense.

Wow, that's interesting to hear you take on pocket screws. I was under the assumption that a Kreg Jig would be the best way to connect the shelves.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

B77 said:


> Thanks for that information - very helpful.
> 
> I think the path of creating a template, rough cutting the rest, and then using a router to flush trim may make the most sense.
> 
> Wow, that's interesting to hear you take on pocket screws. I was under the assumption that a Kreg Jig would be the best way to connect the shelves.


I would want them the same width to within a hair or two. I don't have a problem doing this with a hand held circular saw, miter saw, or table saw. A router will likely chip out the ends.

I also don't think pocket holes are ideal for a shelf. The strongest joint is likely a sliding dovetail...but a dado is my go to joint for shelves. Screws will give ok strength, but screwing straight on from the sides gives you a full shank of support. Pocket holes are only held by the tip. They are still adequate for nicknacks but for books or heavy objects I personally would feel uneasy.


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## Skaggydog (10 mo ago)

This is what I would do. Pull the pocket hole screws. Put a support under the shelf, preferably screwed into a stud or two. Glue a piece into the gap and replace the pocket hole screws.


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