# Trouble Aligning Delta Table Saw



## wfleming (Feb 15, 2020)

I have a 10" Delta contractor's saw (model 34-444) that I'm trying to get the blade aligned on and am running into some trouble. It's pretty far out of true: from the right miter slot I'm measuring the outfeed as ~45 thou closer than the infeed. That's about 3/64!



The thing I am butting my head up against is that I am able to get the front/infeed to measure pretty close to true by loosening the trunnion screws and tapping the table top with a mallet: but when I tighten the screws up again the act of tightening them pushes the top right back where it was.


(I am trying to adjust the front because I already adjusted the back, and there isn't any further for it to move. That's how out of alignment it is. So effectively the back got pushed away from miter slot, and now the front needs to get pushed toward the miter slot.)


I am measuring from the same spot on the blade. There is a bit of wobble when I rotate the blade around, but not much: about 0.005".


At this point I'm thinking I need to do a more complete break down of the saw, something like detailed at https://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/alignment.html. But I'd really like to avoid that if it isn't necessary, and I'm also worried that this much of a misalignment could be a larger problem with the arbor or something else I'd need to think about. So before I take on the larger project of moving the very heavy table top I'm posting this in the hopes somebody will have some clever tips . Any input on how to best approach this successfully is definitely appreciated, thanks!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*First of all......*

Use the longest steel scale you own, 12" or 18" or even 24" next to the blade's plane, no teeth touching it at full height. Use strong rare earth magnets to hold it in place on the table. Now you can measure to the right side slot at each end of the scale who's length makes the measurement much more accurate. You can use a tri-square with the body into the slot and the blade reaching to the left and just kissing the scale. A feeler gauge will tell you when you are close. OR you can use a vernier caliper with the depth bar.

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/tablesaw-blade-alignment-miter-slot-11185/
 

 


 

Backing up a bit ...loosen the trunnion bolts front and rear to see which way they are allowed to move by the bolt shoulders. Try to center it by shifting to the right and left finding the center of the allowed movement. Now, remove any washers under the bolts one at a time and replace them with new star washers. This is what's making the trunnions settle back in the same place each time, the washers are probably bent.

Once the trunnions are centered, accurate measuring can begin as stated above. Snug the centermost bolt first, the remeasure. Then snug the others, and remeasure. That should get you as accurate as needed for woodworking.


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## wfleming (Feb 15, 2020)

Thanks for the reply! I realize now I should have given more details on how I'm currently measuring: I was erring on the side of brevity to focus on where I was struggling rather than being overly long winded about everything I have done, but I can see that I erred too far and more context will probably help. My apologies.



I'm currently measuring the distance with a dial indicator in a jig: picture attached. I believe I've made the jig accurately enough for my current purposes: it has play of about 0.005" within the miter slot, but by holding it steady against one edge of the miter slot I think it's pretty accurate. I also believe it's accurate because I also measured the blade alignment using a combination square (though without the addition of a straight edge) when I made the little jig for the indicator & came up with 3/64" that way, so the two approaches have agreed. Do you think the using a straight edge with the combination square will be more accurate than the setup I have with the dial indicator?


I will spend some time next trying to get all the trunnions centered, that's a good suggestion, thanks. One odd thing: there are no washers on the trunnion bolts. I presume I should put some on as part of this process since they'll prevent the alignment from shifting once I can get it adjusted properly?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Why use a straight edge?*



wfleming said:


> Thanks for the reply! I realize now I should have given more details on how I'm currently measuring: I was erring on the side of brevity to focus on where I was struggling rather than being overly long winded about everything I have done, but I can see that I erred too far and more context will probably help. My apologies.
> 
> I'm currently measuring the distance with a dial indicator in a jig: picture attached. I believe I've made the jig accurately enough for my current purposes: it has play of about 0.005" within the miter slot, but by holding it steady against one edge of the miter slot I think it's pretty accurate. I also believe it's accurate because I also measured the blade alignment using a combination square (though without the addition of a straight edge) when I made the little jig for the indicator & came up with 3/64" that way, so the two approaches have agreed. Do you think the using a straight edge with the combination square will be more accurate than the setup I have with the dial indicator?
> 
> ...



The only portion of the exposed blade you can measure is about 8" long. Now use a 24" scale and you have multiplied that length by 3 times, much more accurate. Accuracy is relative however. Typically there is some runout in the combination of blade and arbor. By simply rotating the blade 90 degrees while holding the arbor still, then measuring the runout at each 90 degree position, you may find it's "sweet spot" where it's less.


The trunnion bosses may not be perfectly flat, just rough castings. This allows them to "self locate" rather than precisely position when the bolts are snugged up. As particular as this process is, you would think manufacturers would give the bosses more attention. 

Some saws do use star washers, others not. Mine don't have them but they are from the late 1980's so I can't vouch for newer saws.
They will certainly bite in and make the trunnions secure IF you do choose to use them. Personally, I don't think they are necessary unless the bosses are very uneven. 

One tip I have after having done this process many times, is to tip the saw on it's back allowing access to the trunnion bolts while also measuring the slot to blade or scale on the top side. On a contractor type saw, you would remove the motor and mounting bracket. I haven't owned one of those in many years. Mine are direct drive, with the motors within the cabinet, but I still tip them on their backs for adjustments. I'm too old to be crawling around underneath making adjustments, and then getting up and testing my results, back and forth. :|


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## CharleyL (Jan 13, 2019)

I picked up a Delta 34-444 table saw and cleaned it up for my son because he is remaking his first house. To solve the problem that you are having I bought a PALS kit

https://www.amazon.com/LINE-INDUSTRIES-PALS-CTS-alignment/dp/B0036B0V22

I also needed to enlarge a couple of the holes a bit to be able to get the alignment that I wanted. Do a google search for "PALS table saw" and you will find the manual as well as several sources for these. I just posted a link to one of them.

You will find that the 34-444 is a pretty good and accurate table saw, once you get everything adjusted correctly. My son's saw turned out to be every bit as accurate as my Unisaw, and he is quite happy with it. It's biggest design failure is that there is absolutely no control for the saw dust. It goes everywhere. A bag is available that hangs under the saw to catch what falls straight down, but it does little to stop it from flying. There is also a plastic cover with a 4" hose connection that you can attach to the under side of the saw, but with the back wide open, it doesn't completely solve the problem either.

Charley


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

using the dial indicator on the same flat area of a tooth is the best method.
if the blade has any run out - and almost every blade does - laying a long rule alongside the blade introduces a magnified error at the ends.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yep, that's the reason for it .....*



TomCT2 said:


> using the dial indicator on the same flat area of a tooth is the best method.
> if the blade has any run out - and almost every blade does - laying a long rule alongside the blade introduces a magnified error at the ends.



By magnifying the "error", by increasing the length of the plane of the blade, you will get a more accurate result. If there is "error" then that would be good to know. You can also rotate the blade 90 degrees and see what the results are for each 90 degrees position .......


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

you don't understand the effect of run out on a blade. 

assume you have a saw where by mystical unseen methods the axle is absolutely 90 degrees perfect to the miter slot.
mount a saw blade with 0.010 total run out, lay a long rule on it and the rule may not be parallel to the miter slot.
depends on where you put it on the blade circumference. 



of course, you could use the dial micrometer to look for two perfectly planar spots at 180' degrees apart - but since you have the dial micrometer out and handy, you could just turn the blade to measure the same spot front and back to within 0.0005 inches. 

which should be plenty accurate for those who feel an alignment of +/- 1/16th is entirely suitable.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I respect your opinion and your approach.*

If you want to, or need to measure out to 0.005", then be my guest. I feel that's way too much "accuracy" for woodworking. Not every one has a dial indicator, even though you can get one for $20.00 at the H-F store, I looked at some today. I own about 3 or 4 of them from digital, to dial to old the school read between the line types, but I choose not to use one to adjust the blade to miter slot relationship. I've used a tri-square for many years and get perfectly fine results. No binding, no smoking, no burning on my rip cuts. I do use the proper blades for each type of cuts, rip and crosscut so that makes a big difference.

As far as blade runout, when the blade is spinning at 4500 RPMs the kerf is what it is. It may or may not be the "dimension" stated on the blade by the manufacturer. What matters is that you make your cuts based on the kerf your saw makes. You can tell by crosscutting a scrap and scribing either side of the kerf on the table top or if your saw has a kerf index use that, OR you can start a very small kerf and adjust your workpiece to cut to the mark.

:vs_cool:


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

It doesn't matter what other tools or measuring devices you have, do this first and your problems will go away. Go to some place that sells garage door hardware. (I don't remember seeing these in either my local Lowes or Home Depot. I got mine from Ace hardware.) Purchase some hardened washers. Replace the washers on the saw with the hardened ones. 

The reason is that sometimes the washers develop a warp as they are tightened. Once the washer is warped or develops a burr you will not be able to align. 

You'll probably pay $10 or $15 for enough washers to do the job but the grief that you will avoid is worth a $zillion.


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## gm hops (Jan 7, 2020)

How timely this post is. I logged on today to ask about this same issue. I have a Delta 36-725 10" contractor saw. I have only used the miter gauge a few times since owning this saw. I noticed yesterday that the distance from the leading teeth on the blade is less than the trailing edge. After reading these posts, should I be concerned? There is about 1/64" difference and maybe my OCD has got me overly concerned. Thanks for your help.


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## CharleyL (Jan 13, 2019)

NoThankyou said:


> It doesn't matter what other tools or measuring devices you have, do this first and your problems will go away. Go to some place that sells garage door hardware. (I don't remember seeing these in either my local Lowes or Home Depot. I got mine from Ace hardware.) Purchase some hardened washers. Replace the washers on the saw with the hardened ones.
> 
> The reason is that sometimes the washers develop a warp as they are tightened. Once the washer is warped or develops a burr you will not be able to align.
> 
> You'll probably pay $10 or $15 for enough washers to do the job but the grief that you will avoid is worth a $zillion.


I forgot that I did this too. There are higher grade hardened washers available, just like bolts. Lowes and Home Depot even sell them, but they will be in the specialty hardware section, in the drawers in quantities of 1 or 2 sealed in plastic bags. They are usually not plain silver color either. The ones that I bought had a tan/gold finish. I replaced all of the washers on the bolts that hold the trunnions of my son's saw, as well as buying the PALS kit.

Charley


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

TomCT2 said:


> using the dial indicator on the same flat area of a tooth is the best method.
> if the blade has any run out - and almost every blade does - laying a long rule alongside the blade introduces a magnified error at the ends.


agree with this. the issue with using the blade and straight edge is that it does not account for a bent blade.

And, try loosening all 4 bolts at the same time.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Bent blades?*



TimPa said:


> agree with this. the issue with using the blade and straight edge is that it does not account for a bent blade.
> 
> And, try loosening all 4 bolts at the same time.


 https://www.amazon.com/Freud-FREUD-...aw+alignment+disc&qid=1581962031&sr=8-2-fkmr0


Bent blades belong in the trash. To align a table saw, use an alignment disc,which has no teeth, is precision ground and be done with it. It's a once in a dog's life ordeal so d it the correct way. Bent blades can be hammered flat by a professional sharpening service WD Quinn, a member here, does them:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

You don't need a disk to align the saw, a length of flat iron with a 5/8" hole drilled in it works just fine, measure it at one end of opening then flip it over to opposite end, which is actually no different than measuring from the same tooth on a saw blade.

This is not "rocket surgery" and there is no need for sensitive measuring devices, just a good sense of touch and patience.

If you can find hardened washers use them, otherwise buy new ordinary washers they will be fine the first time they are used, just don't use the original washers.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yep, you don't "need" an alignment/sanding disc ......*



FrankC said:


> You don't need a disk to align the saw, a length of flat iron with a 5/8" hole drilled in it works just fine, measure it at one end of opening then flip it over to opposite end, which is actually no different than measuring from the same tooth on a saw blade.
> 
> This is not "rocket surgery" and there is no need for sensitive measuring devices, just a good sense of touch and patience.
> 
> If you can find hardened washers use them, otherwise buy new ordinary washers they will be fine the first time they are used, just don't use the original washers.



They are nice to have regardless, since they can be used for accurate sanding of miters using a miter gauge as well as aligning the table saw blade. They are NOT cheap, but that's because they are precision ground I think to 0.002", but I won't swear to that number. Somehow I ended up with two of them over the years. :surprise2:

Those older members may remember niki who was a wealth of information. He posted this in this thread I started:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/...er-slot-11185/
Hi Woodnthings

I also use this method....but, as the others said, it's "almost"....

By extending the blade line to 24" (in my case 30") and checking the distances at the ends of the straight edge, you can minimize the error (misalignment)....well, instead of measuring the error (misalignment) over the 8"~9" of the blade, you are multiplying it a lot by checking the error over 24"...

You can see one example here
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15608

And another example here
http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/v...502&highlight=

Please note that in both cases, I'm lifting the straight edge off the table (to cancel any drag or binding) and, I'm using a caliper for better accuracy......and I think that if you get some 0.002"~0.004" on the 24", you are good to go...on 8"~9" of the blade, you'll get much less...

I call the above adjustment/test "Static Check"...

After I finish the "Static Check", I like to fine tune (or fine test) the blade using the "Dynamic Check"...yes, yes with the blade running at full speed...with the "Dynamic Check", all the Arbor run-out and the blade run out (and every blade has a run-out) are already "Included"...you can see it here
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20188

By the way, all the checks/tests should be done with the blade a "Full High" position....correct me if I'm wrong but, on the pictures, your blade doesn't look to me at "Full high"...

Regards
niki


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

"As far as blade run out, when the blade is spinning at 4500 RPMs the kerf is what it is. It may or may not be the "dimension" stated on the blade by the manufacturer."


yes - and if you blow it by laying a long longer longest straight edge, at an angle to the arbor due to blade run out, the longer the straight edge the bigger the "false" error is indicated at the ends - and you will make the misalignment worse - the wider the kerf becomes, and the harder the saw works.


there are few blades that do not have a run out after even moderate use. a couple thou run out, that small angle extended out 18-24" becomes 1/16th, or more.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

gm hops said:


> How timely this post is. I logged on today to ask about this same issue. I have a Delta 36-725 10" contractor saw. I have only used the miter gauge a few times since owning this saw. I noticed yesterday that the distance from the leading teeth on the blade is less than the trailing edge. After reading these posts, should I be concerned? There is about 1/64" difference and maybe my OCD has got me overly concerned. Thanks for your help.



1/64 = 0.0156
I have the same saw and I've tweeked mine down to 0.003" with the rear teeth a smidge to the left, on purpose (see below)



does it matter? if you're chopping up 2x4's, no.


using the miter gauge on the left side, and the back of the blade is closer, you're apt to get 'tear out' on the top surface, since the rear teeth are moving up thru the cut.
similar issues if using on the right - whether the tear out is on the "good" side of the work piece depends on which direction the blade is heeled/cocked and which side the miter gauge is on.

there is no single answer to "does it matter" - because if matters only if it is a problem for you, others don't count.


you'll see the tear out on plywood and anything with a thin veneer - like big box white shelving - the plastic veneer chips off very easily. I try to manage my cuts on that kind of stuff so the waste piece gets any tear out/chipping . . .


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## gm hops (Jan 7, 2020)

Thanks Tom, I like when my OCD is justified. It seems I should first check the blade is true. Then work on making the saw true. How did you make those last minuscule adjustments? Tanks!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If blade run out really matters then ....*

No need to check a random "marked" tooth for the alignment, because you may just get the worst case scenario. Better to check the plane of the blade for runout first and find the position where's it's minimal, OR use a calibration disc where the runout is less than most blades.... maybe? 

What if the runout is in the arbor itself, not the blade or calibration disc? Now what to do? :surprise2:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=truing+table+saw+arbor







It seems like the rabbit hole has more than one exit. At some point you just have to go with the best you can and call that good, then see how it performs. Your random tooth may have been the "sweet spot" for that combination of elements, who knows? Regardless, an interesting discussion without anyone getting ticked off. :wink:


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

gm hops said:


> How did you make those last minuscule adjustments? Tanks!



the bad news is . . . . not easily.
did you find/download the Delta "instructions" on how to parallel the blade? the procedure is not in the 'original' manual.
goes like: take off the back panel, loosen two bolts on the post , , ,
I used the approach of loosening the bolts, but then making on just s big snug so when the whole motor assembly is moved, you can tighten the other bolt without moving the assembly. 

why there's no set screw to control the push left/right....dunno. definite design issue. apparently the Chinese adventure of Delta considers their ability to make/machine/mount as absolutely perfect so no use adjustments would ever be required.....


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

I use a similar method, although I have a cabinet saw, not a table saw. Instead of would I mount my magnetic dial indicator on a cast iron sled I use for doing cope cuts on my spindle shaper. I usually use a plate instead of a blade since a blade can have runout due to heat and other things. I am sure you did, but you also need to make sure the blade is balls on 90 deg. to the table. Otherwise, the lightest rising or dipping of the dial indicator will really throw off your readings.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Loose is a relative term, in this case the bolts should be just loose enough that you can turn the washers with your fingers, then snug them just a bit. Now tap the trunnion gently with a brass hammer, check and repeat if necessary. You need some resistance against the hammer taps to move that "jist a jista" as my dad would say. When in position tighten everything down and check again.


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

*PALS are the way to go*



CharleyL said:


> I picked up a Delta 34-444 table saw and cleaned it up for my son because he is remaking his first house. To solve the problem that you are having I bought a PALS kit
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/LINE-INDUSTRIES-PALS-CTS-alignment/dp/B0036B0V22
> 
> ...


I had to use these for my Delta contractor's saw. Holds the top when tightening the bolts. Still took a couple of tries but it had been impossible for me without them.


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## wfleming (Feb 15, 2020)

Original poster here. Apologies for going quiet here for a few weeks: work got busy and I didn't have much time to spend in the shop. I appreciate all the discussion this question prompted: lots of good ideas.

For me, loosening all the arbor bolts was what allowed me to get the whole thing roughly into line, and then I used a PALs kit to micro-adjust it so now it's within about 2/1000" of runout on the blade, measured with a dial indicator.

I used the "longer straight-edge with a square" to then double-check that on a longer distance, and that agreed with the dial indicator that it was very close to true. Then I took a plywood square and did the "cut every side a few times, going around" test (is there a better way to describe that?) and measured it after, and it was also very close to true, so I'm fairly happy with the result for now. Thanks woodnthings for the suggestions!

The reason I say "for now" (and the reason I could not get it better than 2/1000") was that I ended up with the front & back of the arbor pushed as far as they would go in opposite directions to get it straight: so the front is adjusted as far left as it would go, and the back is adjusted about as far right as it would go. Since they're both basically at the limits of their travel, the blade is sitting a little closer to the side of the throatplate than I would like: it's close enough that it starts to hit the throatplate if I tilt the blade past about 35 degrees. So at some point I'll probably need to take it apart and file out the arbor's mounting holes a bit so it can be more centered, but I don't need to do that yet.

I'll probably also need to do that more serious disassembly at some point as well to adjust the backlash for the height adjustment. I've had to re-tighten the locknut on that a few times, and I think I need to adjust the eccentric sleeve (B in the diagram on page 16 in the manual: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/5392.pdf), but I have not been able to get an effective grip on it to adjust it from the back of the saw. So in order to adjust that & file out the arbor mounts I figure I'm going to be taking apart my fence, table extension, etc., and flipping the saw, and that's not a project I feel quite prepared for yet.


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

basically have the same saw as you and I was having the same trouble getting the blade adjusted to run true. I'd get it aligned with a dial indicator, make a cut and it was evident the blade was crooked. I ended up putting new bearing in from amazon and problem fixed.


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## yulem (May 15, 2020)

Hi,
I'm posting here because I have the same saw and a similar blade alignment issue.
After moving the saw the blade alignment is out about 1/8th inch. It was NOT out before the saw was moved. That error was determined using the combination square-marked tooth method.
I loosened all four trunnion bolts and can visualize left to right movement in both front and back trunnions.
The problem is that the trunnions bottom out against the table top (the posts receiving the trunnion bolts) before I can remove the misalignment. I have checked everything but obviously must be missing something. I've cleaned any sawdust that might be interfering as well.

Please help!
Thanks,
Ralph


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Between both of these attachments, you should be able to align your blade.
Most contractor saws are built alike. It helped me out on my old Delta Contractor Saw


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

I had problems keeping the alignment with Craftsman contractors saw. I turned the saw upside down the floor after removing the leg and base. I removed 4 bolts and washers. Elongated the oval holes another 1/8" in each direction using a Dremel tool. Then I smoothed the casting at each hole with an orbital sander. Replaced the bolts and washers, turned the saw right side up on the legs and base. I had left the bolts slightly loose. Aligned the blade to the miter slot using two combination squares. As an added precaution I hot melt glued at each hole before snugging up. 
Looked perfect so I finished tightening the bolts. That did the trick for me.
Make sure the casting is smooth at the bolt holes. Elongate the holes if necessary. I used ordinary washers but hardened ones sound like a good idea.
mike


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## yulem (May 15, 2020)

Thanks,
I'll fiddle with the front trunnion more today and if that fails I'll elongate the bolt holes. The saw is already built into a larger work table with an upgraded fence mechanism so getting to the front trunnion to enlarge them is a chore. But then again the saw is worthless as it is now. :-(
Ralph


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

welcome aboard, Ralph.
this is an open forum with all levels of skills and talents.
please feel free to join in the conversations that you find interesting
and ask questions to expand your skill levels and share what you know.
if you would like to know more about something, you can start a new thread.
we like to see photos of projects to share with others.
when you get time, you can complete your profile through the "User CP"
with your location and whatever you want in your signature line that will
show in all your posts. looking forward to seeing some of your projects.
hope you enjoy your stay.

.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

gm hops said:


> How timely this post is. I logged on today to ask about this same issue. I have a Delta 36-725 10" contractor saw. I have only used the miter gauge a few times since owning this saw. I noticed yesterday that the distance from the leading teeth on the blade is less than the trailing edge. After reading these posts, should I be concerned? There is about 1/64" difference and maybe my OCD has got me overly concerned. Thanks for your help.


This thread reactivated and I noticed this post. I understand that the quoted post is a few months old.

My concern is that the blade alignment might be pinching on the rip fence side of the table saw. I do not know whether it would be a concern for a such a small deviation (1/64 inch). 

The concern about pinching between the blade and the rip fence relates to kickback. Some of my friends set their rip fence to toe out very slightly to avoid pinching concerns. Others do not, including me, but I am careful when aligning the blade and aligning the rip fence.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You may need to elongate the holes as another member did*



yulem said:


> Hi,
> I'm posting here because I have the same saw and a similar blade alignment issue.
> After moving the saw the blade alignment is out about 1/8th inch. It was NOT out before the saw was moved. That error was determined using the combination square-marked tooth method.
> I loosened all four trunnion bolts and can visualize left to right movement in both front and back trunnions.
> ...



Here's how to picture what you need to do. 

Imagine a 4 legged table sitting near a wall. The legs are the 4 bolts and the edge of the table is the miter slot.
But, ... it's a little bit sideways and needs to be parallel against the wall. 

You can either move one end or the other, but you may bump into the wall with just one end.

So, in some cases you need to move one end further than the other, so both ends need to get moved to make it parallel.
When you bump into the wall, that's the same as bumping into the trunnion holes... not a big enough hole to get where you need to be.
So you need to elongate that hole, maybe it's twin as well?


:vs_cool:


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

Tool Agnostic said:


> This thread reactivated and I noticed this post. I understand that the quoted post is a few months old.
> 
> My concern is that the blade alignment might be pinching on the rip fence side of the table saw. I do not know whether it would be a concern for a such a small deviation (1/64 inch).
> 
> The concern about pinching between the blade and the rip fence relates to kickback. Some of my friends set their rip fence to toe out very slightly to avoid pinching concerns. Others do not, including me, but I am careful when aligning the blade and aligning the rip fence.


I also set the fence about 0.002 or 0.003 wide at the back. The only issue is if I'm cutting with the fence to the left of the blade.

So you don't have to ask.
Cutting bevels on a right tilt saw. I was told must be left side of the blade. 
Pftttt.
No further comment.


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

I had the same problem with my saw. I'd get the blade aligned with the T-slots and cut a board and it would burn the wood with the sides of the blade.

Turned out it was the arbor bearings. Cheap fix. About $12 from amazon.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Picked up an older Grizzly 10 inch some time back, and had the same type alignment problems. Saw cut well when I got it, but that was because the rip fence was adjusted parallel to the blade, so it ripped OK. To make a long story short, after a week of banging my head against it. emailed Grizzly, and was told if what I said was happening, I most likely would have to enlarge the trunnion slots. Trip through the milling machine for each trunnion, and finally got it adjusted. It just plumb ran out of adjustment. Grizzly tech had no explanation why. Been fine ever since, blade, fence and miter slot all line up.


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## yulem (May 15, 2020)

Update - The working solution was to elongate the trunnion holes to allow greater adjustment range. I only needed to enlarge the rear holes which made my life easier.
I still would like to know how a saw that was properly aligned could be so far off after moving it. It's not like moving it would alter the trunnions unless the broke! I could see no play in the arbor.
Thanks to everyone for your help.


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