# final finish after danish oil



## Loutro (Jan 13, 2013)

Hi, I have a walnut bench that I have applied three coats of Danish oil to, wet sanding the second two. I have just a little woodworking experience and this is the first time that I have used Danish oil. 

I've read that the danish oil finish will loose its lustre and need to be refreshed after a couple years. This will be difficult to do in the case of my bench which will have a danish cord seat (the cording will wrap around the wood surface). I would like to put a final finish over the oil finish that will protect it and extend its life before I do the cording work. I've read that Watco's solvent wax is a option as is a coat of polyurethane.

I'm wondering if anyone here has an opinion on either of these options, or any other advice that might be useful. I don't want the finish to be overly thick, I like the smooth texture that I have now, but I would like it to not require re-finishing anytime soon.

Thanks!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Generally the Danish oil finish is a finish by itself and doesn't need to be topcoated. I built a clock out of walnut in 1972 and only put the initial coat or two of finish on when I built it and haven't added any more since and it still looks fine. Anyway if the oil finish has dried a week there is no reason you can't put polyurethane over it. It would have made a more durible finish if you had started with the poly and not put the oil finish on. I would recommend that you wipe the surface down with lacquer thinner and let dry before topcoating in case there is a residue of the oil finish on the surface. I've never use the solvent wax so I can't comment on that.


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## Loutro (Jan 13, 2013)

*danish oil might be enough*



Steve Neul said:


> Generally the Danish oil finish is a finish by itself and doesn't need to be topcoated.


This is a good point. I've read statements that say both this and that a topcoat is recommended, a few more of the latter than the former, which is why I've been looking into doing it. But, perhaps if I put a fourth coat of danish oil on, that will be enough. I believe that there is some varnish in the oil mixture and I imagine that this is what is making the surface smoother with each successive coat that is also wetsanded in the application. The piece won't be walked on or necessarily be at risk of damage from food and drink, so the level of protection that I need is on the lower end.

My only concern really is that the finish will significantly fade, or appear to dry out, loose the sense of depth one sees in the grain of the wood.

Please let m know if you have any further thoughts.

Thanks,
Loutro


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## Toolmaann (Feb 21, 2011)

I've always topcoated with Watco liquid satin wax after danish oil finishes... I built a walnut clock (in my album) that I used danish oil on, and twice a year (when I pull the clock down at DST) I throw on another coat of wax. I think the look is great.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Loutro said:


> This is a good point. I've read statements that say both this and that a topcoat is recommended, a few more of the latter than the former, which is why I've been looking into doing it. But, perhaps if I put a fourth coat of danish oil on, that will be enough. I believe that there is some varnish in the oil mixture and I imagine that this is what is making the surface smoother with each successive coat that is also wetsanded in the application. The piece won't be walked on or necessarily be at risk of damage from food and drink, so the level of protection that I need is on the lower end.
> 
> My only concern really is that the finish will significantly fade, or appear to dry out, loose the sense of depth one sees in the grain of the wood.
> 
> ...


 I have experienced Danish Oil drying out on red oak but not walnut. I have a book case I built a long time ago and a few years later it got to looking dead. I had planned to re-oil it but my wife wants a film finish on it instead so it just sits because I don't have the time to take it apart and take it out to the shop and finish it. I suspect if I had re-oiled as I planned on it would have been fine. It certainly hasn't gotten any worse.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A "Danish Oil Finish" can be a stand alone finish. It needs no top coating. I would not apply any wax. It can be thinned with mineral spirits for a smoother flow, or some interior oil base varnish, or an oil base polyurethane can be added for more of a varnish ratio to the finish. Or, either of those two additives can be used as a topcoat.











 







.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> My only concern really is that the finish will significantly fade, or appear to dry out, loose the sense of depth one sees in the grain of the wood.

Yes, that is a long term outcome of a using an oil/varnish mixture like Watco. It is primarily linseed oil and linseed oil dries out, loses its gloss and needs to be renewed periodically. I have a credenza I build 25 years ago an I have to wipe it down with mineral spirits using a scotch-brite pad every 4-5 years or so. I then apply a new coat of a home brew oil/varnish mixture.


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## Loutro (Jan 13, 2013)

*thanks*

Thanks to everyone for weighing in on this. I think the consensus is that the Watco Danish oil is intended to be left without a topcoat, but at the same time, it may look a little dead after 4-5 years. 

Some of you suggest freshening it up at that point, but I don't think that I will be able to do that due to the cording, which is why I was thinking of adding a topcoat of some sort now, before I do the cording work.

I will probably put a 4th application of the danish oil on and leave it there.

Thanks again!


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## Bill White 2 (Jun 23, 2012)

We use a BUNCH of Watco products on our reclaimed wood tables with excellent results. Never had a "fading" complaint.
Bill


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