# Bookcase Design



## fernie (Sep 10, 2015)

As my first project I decided to build a small bookcase for my office. Design of the book case includes:
3 shelves using Jatoba (measuring 32 inches long x 12 inches wide x 2 inches thick)

At this point I have sanded the jatoba wood working my way up the grits from 60 > 80 > 100 > 150 > 220.

My plan was to build the shelving structure using 1 inch galvanized piping. Came across some ideas on-line. Having been thinking about: 
1. Building two ladder like structures and just laying each end of the wood on the ladder piping.
pros: easy to do
cons: won't be very stable and looks a little un-finished

2. Building two ladder like structures, but drilling 4 holes into and through the wood on each corner. Using this technique I can then slide or lower each shelve onto the piping structure.
pros: bookcase should be more stable
cons: I have to drill through the wood

3. On the surface of each piece of wood, I will use galvanized pipe floor flanges and attach 4 in each corner of the wood using screws for each floor flange. I can then screw a pipe into each flange and build the shelf up that way.
pros: is the look I'm going for
cons: I've read that Jatoba wood is very difficult to put screws into, that screws break. Also each piece of this 32 inch long jatoba must weigh 20 pounds. I'm afraid the screws in wood of the floor flanges won't hold up say if I go to move the bookcase and it will come apart.

Option 2 might be my best way to proceed. However, I need to drill a 1 inch wide hole through Jatoba that is 2 inches thick. Do you think I can successfully do this with a hole saw attached to a drill? I don't have any scrap to practice on either.

Thanks.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

You have a tough wood to work with.
If you need a large hole a Forstner bit would work better than a hole saw, take small bites being careful not to burn the bit. The pipe flanges could be bolted to the shelves if strength is a concern and you would only have to drill small holes.


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## fernie (Sep 10, 2015)

FrankC said:


> You have a tough wood to work with.
> If you need a large hole a Forstner bit would work better than a hole saw, take small bites being careful not to burn the bit. The pipe flanges could be bolted to the shelves if strength is a concern and you would only have to drill small holes.


Thanks for tip, had not heard of a Forstner bit before. 
Yes the beauty of the wood caught my eye while at the lumberyard. Of course after researching it further after purchasing I read it was a bit difficult to work with. Lesson learned.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Dump the galvanized piping. You are working with a beautiful wood. Do not use some other material that will detract.

George


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## Bob in St. Louis (Feb 11, 2015)

Here's a random Google image I found, just an idea.
You can also finish the rods with painted PVC sleeves.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*exactly!*



GeorgeC said:


> Dump the galvanized piping. You are working with a beautiful wood. Do not use some other material that will detract.
> 
> George



That beautiful wood should be used with stainless steel, copper, even a satin black paint, not galvanized pipe...it's too crude. However, I have polished galvanized water pipe years ago, but I think the galvanizing was of higher quality back then. You can spin it with a drill and use sandpaper to create a " lathe turned" look.

As far as the mounting methods you could use a long interior pipe or threaded rod and then sleeve it in between the shelves with the "high end" tubing of your choice. Do NOT use pipe flanges, also too crude. If you are a student on a budget, then 2 X 12 planks of Doug Fir or other construction material, then it would probably fit in a low end decor. 

If you are going for an "industrial" design style, you may find spacers of some iron castings or weldments will be better suited for that.Check ebay for those. Often the remains of a laser cut sheet have a great "negative" spatial quality and make artful pieces if used creatively.


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## fernie (Sep 10, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> That beautiful wood should be used with stainless steel, copper,


Thanks, had not thought of using copper. After much thinking, I've come up with a design using copper piping. Will be a whole lot more complex, but will be worth it. Should look good when finished. I'll post up the bookcase when finished. 

Thanks all for the advice!


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## fernie (Sep 10, 2015)

Finished the bookshelf finally! Wanted to report back and show you how it turned out. Took the idea of using copper piping and ran with it. I think it matches the jatoba fairly well. Finished the wood with Waterlox. Thanks for the advice everyone!


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## asevereid (Apr 15, 2012)

Looks good, and nice job on the FBC product placement


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

Nice job. Look kinda Steam Punk.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Bob in St. Louis said:


> Here's a random Google image I found, just an idea.
> You can also finish the rods with painted PVC sleeves.


Please tell us you are joking. PVC sleeves? It looks better (though not good) as it sits.

George


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## Bob in St. Louis (Feb 11, 2015)

GeorgeC said:


> Please tell us you are joking. PVC sleeves? It looks better (though not good) as it sits.
> 
> George


UUhhhh "No". Not joking. 
Some folks don't like the industrial look of threaded rod, nuts, and washers. There's a thing called "WAF", and allthread generally falls into that category. 
So a fella could use PVC to cover those. The PVC could be painted, covered in contact paper, gold leaved, wrapped in fabric or whatever.


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## fernie (Sep 10, 2015)

asevereid said:


> Looks good, and nice job on the FBC product placement


Ha thanks! I visited Fernie, the town where my father was born and raised this summer. Kept that bottle, liked the phrase on the label too much not to display it :thumbsup:


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