# To glue and Screw or just clue?



## autoBrad (May 21, 2008)

Hey Everyone,

This is my 2nd attempted at a cabinet.. First one I learned some things and it's okay, but butt ugly... This one I am building with 3/4 Poplar plywood. I am attaching some photo's.. I have a rabbit on the top and bottom of the sides where it meets the top and bottom. I also did a rabiit on the sides, top and bottom for the back which is also 3/4 poplar plywood.. I dont' want it racking side to side, etc.. 

I don't know if I should clue and screw the sides and top/bottom together or If I should just clue? I have countersinking drill bits so I know I can coutersink them.. Also, I have a brad and finish nailer air guns... Don't think with ply that would have much holding power though.. 

I am also still trying to decide if I should put a shelf in the middle or not...

Thanks in advance, I know this is a junior type of question.


Not that it matters for this question.. but basically a version of this is what I am building...

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Ultimate_Miter_Saw_Stand/#


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## sausagefingers (Oct 1, 2008)

Screws are always stronger, they just don't look as nice as nails. But glue and nails would normally be strong enough for a typical cabinet. But since this is a saw stand and isn't treated as nice as a normal cabinet, I'd go ahead and screw it together. If you are not sure about a shelf, put a 1" band on both sides in the middle of it so you can just set a shelf in if you want it later.


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

I agree, go with the screws. Any project I do for the shop gets glued and screwed. I do think the 3/4" ply for the back is a little over kill but you are on the right track.


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## Nomes (Mar 21, 2009)

If you wanted to hide the screws drill the hole for them the size of a dowel cut small lengths and plug them.
I think dowels are made of poplar or birch or you can buy the plugs.


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## Conner (Sep 14, 2008)

The screws will act as clamps until your glue sets up.


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## autoBrad (May 21, 2008)

Great input.. I did go ahead and glue and screw it... I will upload some pics when this thing is done.. Or I might upload some while in progress also.


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

Here's an idea for next time......I just bought a pocket screw jig yesterday and this was my first attempt. It works like a champ. They have the blanks to fill the holes afterwards and they come it most common flavors of wood to match.


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## TheRecklessOne (Jul 22, 2008)

I've built more cabinets with buscuits and pocket screws than any other method. I really like it because it's rocket fast and (despite some peoples opinion) super strong. If you used bisquits and pocket screws all of your joints would be all shoulder except the tiny holes and bisquit slots. I personally think it's stronger than rabbets which cuts the width of the plywood in half. Just my opinion..


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## autoBrad (May 21, 2008)

Yeah, I have the kreg pocket hole jig also.. I haven't used it for much.. I think it would be good for face frame and some other things. I know some people view it as cheating on most things.. but to each their own I guess.. I checked out a book from the library once on making cabinets using biscuits.. I haven't done it yet.. I am an extreme cabinet novice.. 

Here's a pic of the creation in progress.. I am debating the wings and how to attach them.. two options are a riser that goes up the side with either a piano hinge or with folding shelf brackets(heavy duty ones that will hold 500lbs or more..

THanks


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

I used the folding shelf brackets on mine.


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## autoBrad (May 21, 2008)

Hey John,

Your stand is awesome. I am somewhat copying it.. My center will be different, but anyways. Did you put bolts into the wings from the top? Sinking the heads just below the surface? I was trying to figure out how to do it so I could level it, etc.. If you did from the top then I could figure that out easily.

Thanks


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## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

I like the idea of foldable wings on the side. It allows for smaller space for storage.

Also, anyone that is building multiple cabinets....I give my highest recommendation to the Kreg Pockethole Jig. I would argue that glue and Kreg pocketholes would withstand any amount of punishment!!


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

autoBrad said:


> Hey John,
> 
> Your stand is awesome. I am somewhat copying it.. My center will be different, but anyways. Did you put bolts into the wings from the top? Sinking the heads just below the surface? I was trying to figure out how to do it so I could level it, etc.. If you did from the top then I could figure that out easily.
> 
> Thanks


Sent you some pics. You're correct. I countersunk the heads of 1/4 20 bolts and used multiple nuts/washers to level the wings.


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## bzbatl (Feb 10, 2009)

Glue + Plywood = stronger than most any wood

Brads or finish nails are all that's needed if you've got a good joint. 1/4" rabbets in a 3/4" panel is all that's necessary for even heavy duty tool cabinets. I don't tend to question Norm's designs (although it's always healthy to be a skeptic).


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## autoBrad (May 21, 2008)

*Updated Pics.*

Here's some updated pics.. It's functional now. Both wings obviously fold down, but I was too lazy to fold the other down for the pics.. I still have to do drawers and doors.. gotta figure out how I'm going to do the face frame, etc.. but now I need to use the stand to do some trim work so.. it will have to wait haha.

That one mitre for holding the leg I screwed up and put 2 brads in it.. I should have taken a pic of the one without any brads in it haha.. 

Also the garage slopes out pretty good for water.. well I made both of the legs the same length like a dumbie.. so for right now I put a scrap piece of 2x pt under it..


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Great job Brad!


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

autoBrad said:


> Hey Everyone,
> 
> This is my 2nd attempted at a cabinet.. First one I learned some things and it's okay, but butt ugly... This one I am building with 3/4 Poplar plywood. I am attaching some photo's.. I have a rabbit on the top and bottom of the sides where it meets the top and bottom. I also did a rabiit on the sides, top and bottom for the back which is also 3/4 poplar plywood.. I dont' want it racking side to side, etc..
> *Smart move, in addition to strength it will also square up your box. Normally 1/4" will suffice especially if there are permanent shelves and dividers to also tack it to. With workshop stuff, 3/4" certainly wont hurt.*
> ...


 
*Have fun building it. I hope I have been of some help.*


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