# Sharpening Advice



## KTP (Mar 12, 2013)

Hello, Internet! Greetings from the Rust Belt.

I do a bit of hand planing and chisel work and I'm looking to better my sharpening. I've mainly been using sandpaper on plate glass with a bevel guide since that seems to be idiot-proof. This has worked well enough though a variety of projects so far.

However, I can only find paper up to 800 grit around here. My book-learnin' indicates that this is not really a fine enough edge for the best work, so I'd like to get a fine-grit stone. I do have an old combination waterstone that feels like maybe 150/1000. It doesn't seem to yield a better edge than the paper.

Any thoughts on what to get? Would it be too much of a jump to go from 800/1000 to something like 5000 in one step?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

There has to be an automotive store around Akron. Check their body work section where the bondo and stuff is, 3m's paper is up to 2500 in my local Autozone and O'reilys.


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## JQMack (Sep 24, 2011)

I've been able to get paper up to 4000 grit at Walmart.


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## KTP (Mar 12, 2013)

Sounds perfect, thanks. Would never have gone to Auto Zone or WalMart with an eye out for wodworking stuff.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

JQMack said:


> I've been able to get paper up to 4000 grit at Walmart.


:rockon: 4000x at wally world? There aint maybe an extra 0 in there, huh?

Who would have guessed! What brand is it?


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## JQMack (Sep 24, 2011)

Doh. Meant to say 2500. Starting to get my numbers mixed up, been debating buying some waterstones.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

KTP said:


> Any thoughts on what to get? Would it be too much of a jump to go from 800/1000 to something like 5000 in one step?


If you want to get all your desired grits in one place, the Klingspor store is the place. Likely better prices than local. Much better selection.

10% off until 18 March.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/abrasive-sheets/


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/share-your-sharpening-secrets-48401/


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

As soon as your edge touches the wood, it starts to get dull. You can spend a small fortune and waste many hours in pursuit of an edge than can split an atom. If you are splitting atoms, by all means, take sharpening to an abstract level. If you want to cut wood, keep it simple so you can work the wood, not the stones and gizmos.

My method takes about 3 minutes per edge unless I'm restoring something in bad shape. I use 3M 77 adhesive and stick a piece of 500 grit wet dry paper to my table saw wing, apply a little water and flatten the back. Next I set the blade in a honing guide, set to the primary angle. This seldom takes more than a dozen strokes. I move the blade in the honing guide to the desired secondary bevel. This angle is extremely important for a sharp and lasting edge. On chisels, this is 30 for softwoods and 35 for hardwoods. Two or three strokes on the 500 is usually plenty. I have a 1000 grit water stone I hit next, again only a few strokes. The last step is hitting a piece of leather charged with a fine metal/chrome polish, all with the honing guide. I flip the blade over and pull it off the leather to remove the last wire edge, maybe back and forth a few times, that's it. Don't try to shave any arm hair or you will be bleeding. 

In these pictures, I got a little carried away and made four strokes on the secondary bevel that I didn't need to. It's only the edge that does the cutting and the only part of a blade that needs to be seriously sharp. Eventually, I'll have to do it again and again and again. I say, get to the point and get back to work. Save your money and time for lumber and making saw dust.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Last few pictures.


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## TylerJones (Dec 4, 2011)

I sharpen chisels and plane blades to 8000, and I can tell you with no doubt that it cuts better than 1000 or even 2000 grit. Your cutting edge and back needs to have a mirror polish and be FLAT to yield superior results. The change in shaving, cutting and chopping that you will see will exceed your expectations.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Hammer,

If Norm ever saw you put wet sand paper on a table saw you would in his words be severely reprimanded.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

DST, why?


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Water + cast iron = RUST!


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I understand ... my table saw's top is not cast iron (a magnet does not stick to it). I am not sure if it is aluminum or some other non-magnetid metal, but my best guess it that it doesn't rust either.

I wonder what Hammer1's saw top is made of? Perhaps his won't rust either.


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## KTP (Mar 12, 2013)

Found some 2500 paper at an Advance Auto Parts and it made a world of difference. Thanks again for the tip.



TylerJones said:


> I sharpen chisels and plane blades to 8000, and I can tell you with no doubt that it cuts better than 1000 or even 2000 grit. Your cutting edge and back needs to have a mirror polish and be FLAT to yield superior results. The change in shaving, cutting and chopping that you will see will exceed your expectations.


Can you jump from something much lower like 1000 up to 8000? For instance, I wouldn't want to grind a new bevel angle at 80 grit and then immediately try to start honing it at 2000 because it would take forever to work out the deep scratches. Is that a big issue at the higher end?


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## TylerJones (Dec 4, 2011)

I go from 1000 to 4000 to 8000, that seems to work for many woodworkers.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

KTP said:


> Found some 2500 paper at an Advance Auto Parts and it made a world of difference. Thanks again for the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you jump from something much lower like 1000 up to 8000? For instance, I wouldn't want to grind a new bevel angle at 80 grit and then immediately try to start honing it at 2000 because it would take forever to work out the deep scratches. Is that a big issue at the higher end?


Yes ...you're still working out the scratches. It's just that they're so fine, you can't tell.
Progress the grits even at the higher end.


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