# Workbench top



## ccrow (Jan 14, 2010)

I've seen lot's of maple laminated tops, but for my budget i doubt that will do. I'm getting ready to be given an average size kitchen island that I'm going to put a new top on and use for another workbench. Is there a reason I couldn't/shouldn't use cut down 2x4's laminated together? I would cut off all the factory edges and lose the rounded corners before glueing and clamping. It will probably be a total of 3'5" x 6' with a cut out where the range went that I will use for a mister saw drop in.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ccrow said:


> I've seen lot's of maple laminated tops, but for my budget i doubt that will do. I'm getting ready to be given an average size kitchen island that I'm going to put a new top on and use for another workbench. Is there a reason I couldn't/shouldn't use cut down 2x4's laminated together? I would cut off all the factory edges and lose the rounded corners before glueing and clamping. It will probably be a total of 3'5" x 6' with a cut out where the range went that I will use for a mister saw drop in.



Other than being on the soft side, and knots, it should work out. This is assuming they get laminated on edge (face to face).












 









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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

no problem. heck, i still have and use my first workbench that is a 1 x 6 top, and its taken it's share of beating. granted, it is not equal to a 3" thick maple lam.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

My workbench top is 2"x6"x10's laid side by side. It is as solid as any thing I could want. I covered that with 1/8" masonite for smoothness and because I could easily replace it when it was too banged up or dirty for my taste. By using the masonite top you do not have to remove the round corners on the 2 bys.

George


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## b00kemdano (Feb 10, 2009)

I saw a magazine article about using 2x4s for a benchtop. They cut them down and glued them together, just like you said. 

I think it's a great idea. When it gets really banged up, you can just sand it down again.


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## <*(((>< (Feb 24, 2010)

This is what I plan on doing with some douglas fir 2x4's. Rip each of the rounded edges off and glue them face to face, leaving you only with their edge grain exposed to the wood top, the edge grain is the strongest surface of the wood and will resist abuse. And once it gets beat up it won't be hard to take a hand plane and/or belt sander to it to give it new life.

A big plus is how cheap it will be, 34-30 or so 2x4x8's will be a lot less than solid maple which I would love to go with but for the price.


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## ccrow (Jan 14, 2010)

Thanks everyone....

Sounds like I have a good consensus and approval that this would be a suitable workbench top. Once I get gifted the island and get it made I will post pictures. The only catch is I have to take the island out, it's the price I'm paying for it, cheap, but could suck a bit.


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## ccrow (Jan 14, 2010)

Ok, so I've got the island, i've got the mobile base and now I'm working on the top. I'm repurposing some 2x6's and they seem a little warped. I've trimmed off the rounded edges and thought about not cluing them, but clamping them togetherthen screwing each one down tight. I'm not sure why, but these seems like a problem in the making with expansion, plus they're not very flat. Should I go back to cutting strips then laminating them or proceed ahead? The first attempt, was out of anxiousness to get it used.


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## beerdog (Mar 13, 2009)

USe the glue even if you use screws. It will only help.


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## ccrow (Jan 14, 2010)

Alright, for starters, i don't have a planer, and i've been trying to repurpose some 2x6's for my top. Now that I have them all screwed down they are pretty warped. I was hoping screwing them down would pull some of the warp out, but it didn't...:furious:

Any drawbacks or positive's of dumping the 2x6's alltogether and moving onto 2 layers or 3/4 ply with a hardboard top?


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## mrbentontoyou (Aug 3, 2010)

when i comes to using 2x stock for a bench top, i've read that you're best off getting 2x10's or 2x12's and ripping them down to desired width before face glueing. the bigger boards are straighter, have less knots, and are more stable. 

as for a bench top laminated out of sheet material, I'd throw a couple sheets of 3/4" mdf between the two sheets of ply and edge the whole thing in solid stock. matter of fact, that's exactly what i did for my bench. solid as a rock, flat, heavy and the holdfasts work well.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

ccrow said:


> Alright, for starters, i don't have a planer, and i've been trying to repurpose some 2x6's for my top. Now that I have them all screwed down they are pretty warped. I was hoping screwing them down would pull some of the warp out, but it didn't...:furious:
> 
> Any drawbacks or positive's of dumping the 2x6's alltogether and moving onto 2 layers or 3/4 ply with a hardboard top?



I would have run one side through a jointer. If you don't have a jointer or a planer, you could rip the 2Xs to get one side flat, (for the top), then glue and screw. You would need to get one surface flat, either way.:sad:


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## beerdog (Mar 13, 2009)

I made a bench top by stacking a hardwood ply over MDF. Then faced it in oak.Works great.


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## ccrow (Jan 14, 2010)

So... the top is together now. I ran all 4 sides through the table saw (barely) to clean them off and get flat sides. I glued it together edge to edge. I missed the advice about not doing that above. My top was still not flat so I dropped it off at a local shop who ran it through their big sander. My finished top is now 1 5/32" thick. Is this going to be too thin? If it is could I add some 3/4 ply under it or have I wasted it?


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

ccrow said:


> So... the top is together now. I ran all 4 sides through the table saw (barely) to clean them off and get flat sides. I glued it together edge to edge. I missed the advice about not doing that above. My top was still not flat so I dropped it off at a local shop who ran it through their big sander. My finished top is now 1 5/32" thick. Is this going to be too thin? If it is could I add some 3/4 ply under it or have I wasted it?


Unless you're planning on parking your truck on it you are likely OK. :blink:


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## max510 (Jun 6, 2010)

<*(((>< said:


> This is what I plan on doing with some douglas fir 2x4's. Rip each of the rounded edges off and glue them face to face, leaving you only with their edge grain exposed to the wood top, the edge grain is the strongest surface of the wood and will resist abuse. And once it gets beat up it won't be hard to take a hand plane and/or belt sander to it to give it new life.
> 
> A big plus is how cheap it will be, 34-30 or so 2x4x8's will be a lot less than solid maple which I would love to go with but for the price.


for about that price you could get this http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9912-Solid-Maple-Workbench/dp/tags-on-product/B0000DD0XL


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