# How to choose wood? End grain cutting board



## Mr_Dunev (May 3, 2013)

Sorry for the extremely noobish question but I just need a couple pointers.

Apart from fixing up an old industrial factory cart, and my 5th grade woodshop class, I have little to zero experience with wood.

My girlfriend just graduated from Le Cordon Bleu, and is a fantastic chef. I would like to make her an end grain cutting board.

I have done some research on different types of wood, the janka scale, etc. I am probably going to do something simple with Maple and Cherry, or Maple and Walnut. I also found a lumber store about 10 miles away that looks like they will have what I need.

How big should the wood be I want to purchase? the cutting board will probably be roughly 18x18 and 2" thick or so. I am trying to think of my own unique design, instead of just a square or rectangle.

What should I look for when choosing the wood? just color or are there certain specifics when I am at the lumber yard?

Thanks in advance,
Lucas


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

If your tools are limited you'll probably want to buy S4S or S2S wood, which means that it is planed to thickness (2 sides finished) and, for the former, jointed (4 sides finished). 

Avoid boards that are cracked, warped, twisted, etc. They'll also need enough usable wood without knots for your purposes. Since you'll be making small pieces for an end grain cutting board, you probably don't need to worry about knots as much as if it were furniture, but it will still make things easier to have fewer. 

You may want to peak at how she stores them when deciding on shape. We keep large cutting boards stacked so shape doesn't matter, but small ones are on end next to the knife block so a flat edge would be needed.


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## SrGatoGordo (May 15, 2013)

I would stick with fine grained woods. Nothing coarser than walnut. I would also stay away from the exotics as many people have allergic reactions to some of them. At least try to find some allergy info before using them. As for wood thickness, use whatever suits your design. Your keys to success will be smooth accurate cuts and extremely flat glue up. I would use cauls wrapped in plastic wrap. I would also consider using short feet to allow air circulation underneath to avoid warping.

:thumbsup: Good Luck and enjoy great food.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

What tools to you have available?

I would not recommend an end grain cutting board for a first project since a high school class. This construction requires more experience than you may expect.

I have made many cutting board with face or end grain. Much easier to make, not as difficult for the tolerances, and can be attractive.

This is hard maple aka sugar maple. If you purchase maple ask for the species. "Soft" maple is one of 5 sub-species. Only sugar maple is the hard maple.

The little dark squares are purpleheart (end grain). The strips are bloodwood.









This is more decorative. Hard maple for the base, walnut end grain for the left and right edges. Purpleheart for the top and bottom.

Middle is an assembly of wenge, bubinga and lacewood.









For a cutting board you want a close grained wood. Hard maple is common, so is walnut and cherry. I have some walnut boards which I would use, and some are not dense enough.

If you can get bloodwood, this is more dense than hard maple. Also consider bubinga.

If you want a non-rectangle shape, take a look at this site for inspiration.

http://dominikwoods.com/gallery/


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## Mr_Dunev (May 3, 2013)

Gilgaron said:


> If your tools are limited you'll probably want to buy S4S or S2S wood, which means that it is planed to thickness (2 sides finished) and, for the former, jointed (4 sides finished).
> 
> Avoid boards that are cracked, warped, twisted, etc. They'll also need enough usable wood without knots for your purposes. Since you'll be making small pieces for an end grain cutting board, you probably don't need to worry about knots as much as if it were furniture, but it will still make things easier to have fewer.
> 
> You may want to peak at how she stores them when deciding on shape. We keep large cutting boards stacked so shape doesn't matter, but small ones are on end next to the knife block so a flat edge would be needed.


Thanks I'll look into some pre-planned wood, since I am mostly going to be borrowing tools or visiting my friends woodshop.



SrGatoGordo said:


> I would stick with fine grained woods. Nothing coarser than walnut. I would also stay away from the exotics as many people have allergic reactions to some of them. At least try to find some allergy info before using them. As for wood thickness, use whatever suits your design. Your keys to success will be smooth accurate cuts and extremely flat glue up. I would use cauls wrapped in plastic wrap. I would also consider using short feet to allow air circulation underneath to avoid warping.
> 
> :thumbsup: Good Luck and enjoy great food.


Thanks, I'll keep in mind to look for wood that doesn't cause allergic reactions.



Dave Paine said:


> What tools to you have available?
> 
> I would not recommend an end grain cutting board for a first project since a high school class. This construction requires more experience than you may expect.
> 
> ...


So you think I shouldn't make an end grain for my first project? What's the main difference between the 2?

I'll look into bloodwood and bubinga, and see what they look like.

And those dominikwood cutting boards are pretty awesome, I wouldn't mind making a bread platter as well.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Mr_Dunev said:


> So you think I shouldn't make an end grain for my first project? What's the main difference between the 2?


Time, effort, accuracy of your cuts, how straight and flat the boards are.

First you need to cut the pieces into strips and then glue together, same as for a face grain board. Then plane the slab and hope it is exactly parallel side to side and end to end.









Then you cut the slab into strips and flip each one on its end grain and alternate ones top to bottom to make the pattern.

Then you find out that any slight variation in the cuts not being exactly orthogonal, and any slight variation in board thickness will result in the pattern not lining up.

I made the mistake of assuming my table saw blade was still exactly 90 deg. After assembling the pieces of this board and seeing some slight differences, easiest to see in the top and bottom purpleheart rows, I re-checked and darn it, a tiny amount out of 90 deg. Drat, drat and double drat.

I had some gaps which I managed to close upon gluing, but it was a lot more effort than I expected.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Nice boards Dave.

I like the face grain boards better because of the design. Aren't the end grain boards supposed to be better for keeping sharp knives?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

rrbrown said:


> Nice boards Dave.
> 
> I like the face grain boards better because of the design. Aren't the end grain boards supposed to be better for keeping sharp knives?


Thanks.

I expect some site says end grain keeps the knives sharp.

The articles I read stated end grain did not show the cut marks and did not dull the knives as fast as face grain.

I have two working cutting boards, both face grain. One I made from hard maple, the other purchased so not sure of the species. The purchased one does show the cut marks and I sand perhaps once a year. The one I made shows a lot less cut marks.

I do not worry about the knives, I sharpen as needed.

For the original poster, if you decide on an end grain board, a close grained wood is very important. For example, white oak, or worse red oak, has rather open grain. Too easy for stuff to accumulate in the grain.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

The woods used most often for making cutting boards are maple, birch and beech. For accent purposes, some folks use cherry or walnut. Walnut some consider problematic as it may lead to reactions in folks allergic to nuts.

Here is some info that might be helpful.

There is a little engineering that needs to be considered when building an end grain butcher block or cutting board. First, choose wood where the growth rings (viewed from the end) run as close to 90 degrees or parallel to one edge. Remember, the expansion/contraction is about double along the annular rings verses perpendicular to the rings. You've got to keep the grain running in the same direction as you glue up your strips. In other words, don't glue a flatsawn edge to a quartersawn edge. 

Next, the way butcher blocks are made is to glue up strips of wood like you were making a laminated type cutting board. These laminated panels are then run through a planer to flatten them and bring them to equal thickness. Then the panel is crosscut into strips of blocks equal to the thickness that you want the butcher block to be. These block strips are then glued together again keeping the grain running in the same directions. 

Not paying attention to the grain orientation will lead to the block cracking and/or joints being pulled apart. 

A ANSI type II or ANSI Type I (Titebond III) adhesive will work just fine however, you need to be sure you do everything right to get good adhesion. Wood glues are non-toxic when cured. Your glue faces should be flat and freshly cut. It they were cut more than a few days earlier, freshen them up with about three swipes with 320 sandpaper and block to keep the faces flat. 

Generally, threaded rod is not used as maple has quite a bit of movement when it's moisture content changes. Threaded rod would restrict this movement and either deform the block or pull the nut/washers into the wood when it expanded leaving the rod performing no function when the wood later shrinks. Proper gluing will keep the block together.

Finally, it always much cheaper, and a lot less aggravating to purchase a butcher block than to make one. The firms that specialize in end grain butcher blocks have specialized equipment to apply the necessary clamping force, plane the initial boards exactly correctly, plane the first glue up and then clamps to make the final block.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

HowardAcheson said:


> Finally, it always much cheaper, and a lot less aggravating to purchase a butcher block than to make one. The firms that specialize in end grain butcher blocks have specialized equipment to apply the necessary clamping force, plane the initial boards exactly correctly, plane the first glue up and then clamps to make the final block.


Man I'm pretty sure that encouraging woodworking is what the forum is about.


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## hays0369 (May 3, 2011)

Just wanted to chime in my .02. As a novice woodworker, I did a cutting board as my first project. I used African Mahogany and White Oak. 
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/hays0369-20515/albums/very-first-project/16258-finished.jpg 

I agree with most everything everyone has said except purchasing one. I am sure she will get much more satisfaction with one you built. My only comment would to build it a tad bit bigger than what you might think you need. I made mine big enough to cut an entire brisket. As a home cook, there is nothing I hate more than having items fall off my cutting board. Having a really nice size cutting board is always a nice thing. Good luck and be sure to post pics along the way many members here will go out of thier way to assist you in your build.

Hays


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## whatalesyou1 (Mar 18, 2011)

Hi!

I think an end grain cutting board is a great first project! I made several two years ago as Christmas presents. They were a big hit!
Check out these great resources:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/how-make-end-grain-cutting-boards-28721/
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-cutting-board/

I use hard maple, walnut, cherry, and purple heart for my boards.

Tyson


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## Jo D (Dec 13, 2012)

Lucas:

Go to Bellforest.com and look at there cutting board kits. They are fantastic and come out just beautiful.
You have a choice of Maple, Purple Heart, Walnut and Paduk (not sure of the spelling). I have made there Paddle cutting board kit and also the end grain kit. They are great company to do business with and there shipping is fast and and well packed. Go to Matt's Basement online and watch his Paddle Board video and also I bought the Woodwhisperer's Cutting Board Video and it is well worth the price. The cutting board was one of the first projects I did as a beginner and gave 4 of them as Christmas Presents and everyone loved them. I am sure you will love making them.



JoAnn Duggan:


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## Mr_Dunev (May 3, 2013)

Wow thanks everyone for the help. :thumbsup:

I am having trouble getting the wood. The Exotic(ish) Lumber yard is open from 7am-3pm which happens to be my work schedule, and to top it off, they aren't open on weekends....

I was planning on making a couple trips since I only own a motorcycle, but it is become quite difficult to get off early.

What about purchasing wood online? Anyone have any recommendations? 

Thanks


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Earlier reply recommended Bell Forest.

http://www.bellforestproducts.com/exotic-lumber-projects/cutting-board-package/

I did purchase a couple of Woodcraft kits to make a couple of quick boards. Rather inconsistent. I used some of the pieces, but needed to supplement with a lot of my other stock.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2083205/33694/Cutting-Board-Kit--Milled.aspx


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## Julie Mor (Feb 10, 2013)

Dave Paine said:


> This is more decorative. Hard maple for the base, walnut end grain for the left and right edges. Purpleheart for the top and bottom.
> 
> Middle is an assembly of wenge, bubinga and lacewood.
> 
> View attachment 70912


Dave, did you have any problem with the grain of the wood in that board being 90 degrees to one another? I initially designed the board below with the board grain 90 degrees on the ends so the handles would be strong. 









But after a lot of discussion was convinced the grain needed to be oriented parallel.








The woods are maple and jatoba.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Julie Mor said:


> Dave, did you have any problem with the grain of the wood in that board being 90 degrees to one another? I initially designed the board below with the board grain 90 degrees on the ends so the handles would be strong.
> 
> But after a lot of discussion was convinced the grain needed to be oriented parallel.
> 
> The woods are maple and jatoba.


Nice looking boards. I only recently got some jatoba. Nice looking wood.

I hope not, although this board was made for my neigbour to give as a wedding present to a family member. I have not heard of any problems. I see the sister of the recipient now and again.

The classic bread board end is installed with grain of the end piece at 90 deg to the main slab.

The board is not too deep, perhaps 14 inches. I normally install the bread board ends with either 
a) dowels 
b) rout a tenon on the slab and a stopped dado/mortise on the bread board end. 
c) Rout a stopped dado in both pieces and use a spline.

I made this about 3 or so years ago. Not sure which method I used. May have been the dado and spline.

I have a face grain hard maple "working" cutting board which is about 14in deep x 22in long. This was originally laminated without bread board ends. After a few month I noticed splits in the end due to being stood on end while draining.

I did the b) method to add a bread board ends of hard maple to fix this. Must have been 12 - 15 years ago. No signs of problems.


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