# Christmas boxes-1rst time build thread



## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

I am building 12 boxes for presents and thought I would try a build thread. I have learned so much from the countless people that do these all the time I thought it would be only fair that I tried to give something back. I am starting with 12 1/2"x 9" by 4 1/2 boxes. There are 4 walnut 4 spalted white ash and 2 spalted and 2 regular cherry. Sides are 15/16 thick-I know a bit clunky for a box that size but when I get rid of the pesky wood that is not supposed to be there hopefully the proportions will be right. Corners have been 45'd and splines installed.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Looks good so far.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Here are 10 of them after a cove was cut out of top face with the tablesaw. They already look lighter. Sure changes the look of the wood. 1/4 sawn turns into flatsawn and spalt disappears and reappears.


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## Fudwrecker (Jan 27, 2011)

looken good!
I just did 4 keepsakes for gifts - it is a lot of fun and neat how you can end up with all of them being very different and unique from each other!


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Those look outstanding..dramatic difference after the cove. What the table saw trick to do that??


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Looking very good. Nice idea with the coves, they add a lot of caracter to the boxes.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

aaronhl, You clamp a wood fence at an angle on the saw and feed the piece into the blade at about a 40 degree angle-give or take depending on the cove you want. Start with the blade up about an 1/8 inch and each pass raise 1/16 inch. It goes pretty quick and works much better than it sounds. Sure shows how my dust collection is lacking on tablesaw-it makes a mess.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Looks great for sure. Nice work.


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Beautiful boxes.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Well I got rid of more of the pesky wood and they are much less bulky. Used a 1/2 inch straight bit for bottom to create legs-first one I screwed up and now it is a little shorter- I needed a short one.:huh: The rounded bottom I used what I call the airplane wing-1 1/2 " radius router bit-it is huge. Just used a small part to round the bottom. The ash spalt looks like somebody drew the lines on it.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Keep going, please. I'm interested in how the tops and bottoms come together on these.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I have never much been into boxes but those really look good, I especially like the spalted.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Gypsy woods your bowls are fantastic.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Great boxes, can't wait to see finished product.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Thanks for the reply, I'm going to see if I can find a video on Youtube for the cove cut.

The most recent pictures look really good!!


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

I'm glad you're doing a build thread. I never thought of shaping the boxes after they're built; I always thought you shaped the board first then cut it to assemble the box. 

Did you use a jig for the straight bit on the bottom to make the feet? Can you explain this a little more?


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

I thought about making the shape first but saw some obstacles that made me build the box first. The legs- no jig Just set up table with a 1/2" straight bit up above table about 1 inch. I marked the fence with a pencil so I knew where to start and stop. Started the bit about 1/16" out from fence. You don't want to take to much because when you start your cut bit wants to control piece. You just lay piece on side with bottom towards fence and start. With this design after first cut you can look down and see bit. Be slow and deliberate. Pretty easy.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

mike1950 said:


> Gypsy woods your bowls are fantastic.


That's my wife's work. :thumbsup: I'll tell her, she'll be flattered. I hope to do a Kenbo-style tutorial next time she makes a bowl to share how it's done.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

So in these pics, is the bottom already attached to the box? Or is it just 4 sides? If the bottom is there, how did you do that?


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Yes-sorry I should have said so. Bottom is 1/4 in ply in a 1/4 inch groove about 5/8's from the bottom. Please everybody ask ?'s, I am new at build thread stuff and skipped a few steps. Also I made a jig to hold box to put splines in. If somebody wants I will take picture. Also your wife makes fantastic bowls. :thumbsup:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Heheh...well, it's mutual admiration. When I was browsing this thread last night, she happened by and looked over my shoulder at the stacks of boxes and said "Oooo, those are PRETTY.". :laughing: I think on these forums, there's a natural appreciation for _everyone else's _work.

I would definitely like to see your spline jig. I know the basic idea of it, but the more pics I see of them, the better able I'll be to make my own. Along with that would be how did you get the spline to just the right width to snuggly fit? Did you get just it in the ballpark and than sand it down?

I can't wait to see what you do for the lids.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Will get a picture today. I cut the splines on the bandsaw-2'-3' lengths just a bit to thick. Used a sharp block plane to clean up saw marks and fine tune. If you make them long they are a lot easier to handle while planing.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

beelzerob said:


> That's my wife's work. :thumbsup: I'll tell her, she'll be flattered. I hope to do a Kenbo-style tutorial next time she makes a bowl to share how it's done.


Wow, she does beautiful work.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Here we go again. At the bottom of the cove on some boxes I have removed some more wood to round bottom into cove. On some I did not because I did not want to lose color or spalt. At the top I used table saw to cut final angle and then flatten the top. I used pictured plywood clamped to fence because there are no flat sides on box anymore. I used legs up against plywood. Also pictured is crude but effective jig for making spline cuts. Now these just need planing scraping and sanding-major shaping is finished-as always please do not hesitate to ask ?'s


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

mike1950 said:


> Here we go again. At the bottom of the cove on some boxes I have removed some more wood to round bottom into cove. On some I did not because I did not want to lose color or spalt. At the top I used table saw to cut final angle and then flatten the top. I used pictured plywood clamped to fence because there are no flat sides on box anymore. I used legs up against plywood. Also pictured is crude but effective jig for making spline cuts. Now these just need planing scraping and sanding-major shaping is finished-as always please do not hesitate to ask ?'s


After watching your build, I have way more appreciation for boxes, they really do look great.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Thanks Jim, I have not made a box in years and 1. I forgot how much work was in one 2 I forgot how many pieces of scrap they make-the fire is loving it though. :icon_smile: The design for these boxes came from a bedroom set I made last winter. The top drawers match a 1930's vanity top drawer. After I figuered out how to make it I decided it would make a nice box profile. You can see dressers and nightstands-just search the forum for walnut dresser. Oh number 3-boxes are one he!!uva lot of work. :blink:


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

I appreciate you showing me how a simple 4 sided mitered box can be made into such a decorative piece with using mainly a table saw. Can you explain a little bit how you rounded the bottom into the curve? To cut the top did you just angle the table saw blade?


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Mike, are you even going to bother with lids? These boxes stand great on their own as attractive pieces of work, I'm not sure they even need lids.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

But they have to have lids cause I already started on them and what is a lidded box with out the lid:blink: Thanks for the praise-they are fun. aaronhl-the bottom of the box is rounded as stated above with the 1 1/2" radius router bit but above the bottom spline I have remove just a small slice and the with block plane and sander will round it into the tablesaw cove. I think 4 of them do not have this cut-I was worried that I would cut of some color or spalt that I wanted. The box with the fine lined spalt is one without cuts. Keep the ?'s coming-I never would have guessed there would be that much interest in these boxes but it has been fun and sure has improved my skills getting pics onto forum.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

And yes I just used the plywood fence and put fence on left side of blade. Blade thus tilted away from fence and ran the box on it's side cutting the bevel then I put the blade back to 90 degrees and flattened the top for spot for hinges. I will take a pic of the closeup top profile. Right now got honey-do for wife-got to stay out of trouble..............


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Here I am again. I have cut all these 1/8" veneers for the tops-white oak-sunburst and black walnut. I also have already cut the stock for the frame top. So you see I have to have tops. :yes: aaronhl- I hope this picture is a better description of how the top is. You can sure see the saw kerf lines in the cove, these come out pretty easy with a round scraper. Hope this helps-keep the questions coming. By the way this box does not have saw cut at bottom of cove-it is rounded with block plane.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

You're the man, will be looking forward to the lid!


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

mike1950 said:


> I thought about making the shape first but saw some obstacles that made me build the box first. The legs- no jig Just set up table with a 1/2" straight bit up above table about 1 inch. I marked the fence with a pencil so I knew where to start and stop. Started the bit about 1/16" out from fence. You don't want to take to much because when you start your cut bit wants to control piece. You just lay piece on side with bottom towards fence and start. With this design after first cut you can look down and see bit. Be slow and deliberate. Pretty easy.


Thanks. Your boxes are looking great. Would you mind posting a picture of the bottom of one the boxes? I really like the proportions of the feet and want a closer look.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Stream, Here are pics of bottom and 1 1/2 radius bit that made profile. I love the shape of the leg. As I said before this shape was to match a drawer. I think it will make a great box profile. Lids this weekend.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Ok I am back. 10 years ago I built some boxes from a plan in Shop Notes, the lid used a bridal joint and a cool way to install an inset top. But when you are making 12 of them there sure are a lot of steps. This lid will be a variation of that top. First I cut my stock 1 5/8 wide and 1/2 thick. Then cut the female joint with table saw and jig. then cut the male with a dado. Once I got all 48 pcs. cut, I dry fit them. Then set up router table with 1/8 bit and made a groove around inside perimeter. This groove will hold the top which previously picture veneers will be attached. Earlier suggestion to make them without lids seems to be a very good idea at this point-this lid is overkill for strength but I am way too far into it now to turn back. Back to the shop to finish lid grooves and make sub-lid and groove it. As always shoot with ?'s


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## A-Ron (Jun 12, 2011)

Your boxes are beautiful! I love how each one has a personality of their own. I've never built a box before and came into some 1/8" wood that was free that I thought I could make boxes out of, but you're making me reconsider that.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

1/8 " wood-you could make some little dovetails or box joint. Bad thing about these boxes is the pile of sawdust when you get down-there is so much wood that is not supposed to be there! :furious: I think picking the right wood can be the difference between a great project and a ho-hum one. Thanks for the compliment.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

*lids*

Back again. Last center lid piece is glued. Only have enough clamps to glue 2 at a time. 2 pictures of of boxes with lid roughly done. I know the one has a hole in the top still. Kathie liked this box so it will be hers. Decided I would a a little more to it. So I cut the 45's and :furious: they were short. Now this is curly walnut and I have more but I hate to waste it so I used a little ebony as a board stretcher and now it looks like I planned it. Tomorrow I should be able to finish machine work after glue dries. I hope hinges come on thurs-time to be done.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Isn't that a little overkill on the clamps? Leave no doubt that it's tight, huh?


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

It might be but I hate going to all that work and having a void where the 1/8 veneer meets the other wood. I guess my thought is more is better and it sure cannot hurt. Also the white oak knots did not want to flatten out.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Didn't realize that was what you were clamping, so nevermind about the overkill comment.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

hello I am back again- Had stuff to do but here we are getting closer to the finish line. These 2 have to be shipped so I almost have them finished. I reduced the size of the top put a bevel on lid edge and used a file to cut a finger hole to open- hinges and the rest of them next. Finish is general gloss wipe on. Hope you like them. Now If I skipped something you need to know I will answer ?'s


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

So nice man. I love your boxes.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Yea, those are awesome


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

How did you do the little divot where the finger pull is for opening the lid? Must have been difficult to do on so curvy a surface...?


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Well I got to the finish point and realized I had not thought about a way to open them-DAAAAAAh- Did not want a handle so I got out the wood file and there was a finger pull. They are all a little different but it worked out well. Lucky for me..........


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Hehe..., ya, I was looking for the opening mechanism too, until I saw that little divot in one pic. It does indeed work nicely. Subtle.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Hello, this will probably be my last picture post. I do not want to wear out my welcome. Thanks to all of you for the praise, these have been fun. I had to show the walnut they are my favorite, the raised top one is for the wife. Have a great Christmas and thanks again.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I for one never get tired of seeing others projects. Keep them coming. Those walnut boxes are awesome by the way.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Yea don't leave now!!!! I was getting popcorn :laughing: hurry back.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Thanks guys, when the rest of the boxes get finished I will post more pictures.:thumbsup:


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## SeanStuart (Nov 27, 2011)

Those are some nice boxes. And I read about your wife's lovely bowls, but don't see them?


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Thanks- Not my wifes bowls I think that was beelzerob's wife. They are great looking bowls. Look on page 2 you will find his post and click on Gypsy woods.


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Mike I am in the process of box building and have started on one, I will try to post pictures. My question is what type blade do you use on tablesaw cove shaping? I started with a ripping blade and switched to a crosscutting blade with more teeth still left some serious mill marks. I am about sanded out and after reading your post see that you mus have fabed a custome scraper. But still seems like a lot of work smoothing cove and retaining those crisp corners...


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Groovy- I use a ROS- gently start with 100 grit except on really hard stuff and start with 60. I keep it moving and apply very little pressure. My last batch I bought a cmt cutter which reduced sanding. You could probably round the edges on a sawblade and improve surface quality.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Wow! Those are some damn fine looking boxes!


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## f6maniac (Dec 14, 2012)

Great thread and excellent boxes. I enjoy making boxes and know they are a lot of work for such small projects. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and techniques. I'm going to have to try putting a cove into a project, that really stands your boxes apart from others.

One last question for me: What type of hinge did you use? I have had problems trying to use brass screws to mount the hinges.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Thanks I love building boxes also. This was the first build thread that I had done. When it was mentioned yesterday I looked thru it and to say the least I could have done better. 
I used a selfmortise hinge purchased from fxworks on ebay- cheapest place I have found and screws are provided. Using brass screws- you must make pilot holes almost the size of screw-chase holes with steel screw using beeswax (toilet ring) for lubricant.
Also I have a much better build thread on these boxes over at woodbarter in the classroom under Build Da Box. If you have questions ask away.


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