# Dining Table



## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Hi. New to this forum and new to wood working. Looking for advice on a table I am building for my house. I just completed the base made out of metal and am going to start on the wood top. The table is large measuring around 12' long and 5' wide. I have some old mesquite planks that were milled a long time ago. I don't know much but to me they look beautiful. It looks as if they were cut to make two skinny tables but my wife wants one wide one instead. Here is where I need some help. I have four slabs all around 20" but two are 2.5" thick and two are 2" thick. My thoughts are to take one of the 2" slabs and laminate a 1/2" oak board to the underside so that all three rest on my base the same. I figure this would be easier then to try and plane the other two. Any problems with this idea. Also what is recommended method of joining the three boards together, biscuits or dowels or? Thanks for any help and I apologize up front for my ignorance as I'm new at this. I do have knowledgeable friend that is going to help me but I'm tying to learn as much as I can.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)




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## bberchin (Nov 25, 2012)

I think it's best to plane the other two boards. If you don't have a planer, you could bring them to a local shop that would probably do it for cheap. For your glue edge, you should have the same shop joint the edges for you. As long as you have a straight glue edge and good clamping pressure, a long grain to long grain glue up does not require biscuits or dowels. You can still use them if you like, of course. I use biscuits in my end grain to long grain glue ups.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Thanks for the reply. I'm wanting to build it myself so I am leaning towards building a jig and using a router to plane the boards. I saw one set up on a site called the whisperer that looked like it worked so I might copy something like that.


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## bberchin (Nov 25, 2012)

Yeah, the Wood Whisperer is great. He's got a lot of good tricks like that which are really useful. It looks like you've got some cool pieces of wood there- I would be more concerned with getting them straight line ripped if you're gluing them up rather than flattening them, though. You might even want to keep the natural imperfections the surfaces have and do some minor hand planing after they're glued up. That steel base you have there is killer! I look forward to seeing your finished product!


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

So I got the boards cut with the help of a friend, a borrowed saw, and a roller table I found. Cuts turned out pretty good but the edge planer proved more difficult than it looked. Used a Bosche but not sure if I was doing something wrong or if the fence on the bosche was flimsy. Trouble keeping the edge level. Planer wanted to lean one way or the other. Also seemed like the knots were resisting a little also. Lined up boards and clamped and they look pretty good as far as no gaps but took some pretty good clamp pressure on one section. Probably going to plane edges one more time while I wait for the Router jig that I ordered to arrive.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)




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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

This is going to be awesome, can't wait to see more progress


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Wow!!! Those slabs are bigger than I thought. 
Looking good and making some progress. 
My concern is the one slab has that check going down the length. 
What's your plans for that? Looks like you'll be adding some bowties?


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Both outer boards have cracks running the length of them. The underside of the boards dont have it and I still have to plane them down 1/2 inch to match the center board. Tying to decide whether to plane down the top side and potentioally lose the cracks or plane the underside and keep the cracks.

I Would like some input on my base. My idea was to use the rectangular 1 1'/4" angle iron on the top of my base and counter sink it into the underside of the wood top. The top is 2" thick. I thought I would cut the 1" groove into the wood then glue in the angle iron and also attach it with a few screws. I figured it would frame the three boards together maybe preventing the boards from pulling apart and keep the cracks in check.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I'm not sure if you plane them down those checks will disappear. They look pretty deep. 
How wide if a top do you have at this point? 
Depending on how wide you have you may be able to rip the slab that's checked and joint them together again.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

I'd say try to keep the checks and place butterfly keys in them with epoxy, and epoxy the entire length of the crack and emphasize the flaw instead of hide it. I don't know how deep they are though. Slow setting epoxy would be best here to let it seep in deep before hardening.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Yeah, epoxy will also glue those cracks so things will stay stable, if the wood is at a reasonable moisture content. 
(What is the m.c.?)
Also yeah, many use butterflies or bow ties. In your case, they could be made out of metal to match.

This puppy is gonna weigh enough where it will take 2 Swedes and a boy to move it.
Love the base and the use of the turnbuckles.


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## Rockerbox1 (Jan 21, 2011)

wow, now this is gonna be a table


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Thanks for the replys. Yes it is going to be one heavy sucker. Just in process of building a new house and we have a large kitchen nook like my wifes granpa had when she was growing up. It will have a booth seating on three sides and needed a special table. the angle iron bolts to the base with four large bolts so when complete I will attempt to move the two parts seperate and install in the house. Im gonna to a steroid search after I get off the wood forum. Ha! Seriously though could someone give me a specific brand a epoxy to look into?


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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

The table is going to look amazing!:thumbsup: Once you've finished, if we have a nuclear attack, just take your family and get under the table until it's all over. You'll be fine.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

I concur on the bowties. If it turns up missing, just tell the cops to look for four circus strongmen with hernias.

Really looking forward to seeing the finished product.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

On my table I used epoxy from the big box stores, but it sets very fast. I've heard great things about west systems epoxy, and has a very accurate measuring method and different hardeners that will set at specific time constraints. The system isn't cheap, but can't be beat, well I've heard this from most everyone that uses west systems. It can be colored with dye, I would suggest black epoxy, it would look great on that walnut.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Thanks for the info. I will look up the epoxy and I was also thinking black. By the way it is desert Mesquite wood. Must of been a ginormous tree. Alos a big whole on the center board that goes all the way through. maybe a foot by 8". Whats the best way to go about filling it?


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

That's right you did say mesquite, I've been looking at so much walnut lately I think I'm dreaming about it.

I'm not too sure unless you have a better pic of the hole. If it looks stable you could leave it. Or if you question how stable it is you could use painters tape on the bottom, make it sturdy with the tape with a few layers and then fill with epoxy.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I use Enviro-Tek sold at Menards and art supply stores. It's $18.00 a quart.It sets in 24 hours @ 70deg, but you can re-coat after 12. Some settling will occur. and it is imperative to keep after blowing the air bubbles out with a hand held propane torch.
Final toughness will take weeks (6 to 8)
It is not compatible with many finishes, and I would never use it with oil based polyurethane. Cracking of the surface will possibly happen later. So I use water based poly almost exclusively. On a small crack fill it might not be an issue, but I can't say for sure.
.........
You had mentioned questions of mounting steel to the bottom.
I do this routinely by using a 18ga tube steel framework with cross ties in it and lag bolt it to the bottom face of the wood. It keeps the wood from cupping and moving.I never join my slabs together out of concern for the joints opening up or moving later (maybe it's a non-issue, but I just don't join em). My work is with very gnarly live edge wood and it seems to stay alive and moving after dried below 10%. Sorta like a snake with it;s head cut off....it stays alive a long time.

It sounds like you are trying to semi-recess the steel so the thing will set onto your steel frame near flush. I suppose you could use 1/8 thick " angle iron with 1 leg being 3/4" and cut a groove in the wood to set it in place. The other leg can be on the surface and lag bolted or screwed. 
Lotta available options.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Great comments. Thanks. Actually pretty excited that I stumbled across a friend of a friend of a friend of a cabinet guy that has a 20"+ planer so hopefully thursday I will get my two boards planed down. Then on to joining them


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

So I got up at 3 am to make an 8am rootcanal drove back home and arrived at 2pm just in time to take my boards to a guy with a closed down cabinet shop. He opened the doors and had lots of great old machines including the large plane. The boards turned out great and are all now beautiful. He suggested applying some sanding stain if I was going to be awhile before working on the boards. I think I am going to have some time to put the planks together tomorrow.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Looks great!


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Built a jig to use as a dowl guide and put my son to work.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Got the boards glued and joined and they fit really well considering I dont know what I am doing.:icon_smile:


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Taped the backside useing blue painters tape and using a suggestion I picked up the west coast epoxy from Rocklers and added it to the cracks. It mixed easily and even with the fast hardener it seemed to take forever to harden. Probably seemed longer because I had some  tape malfunctions and was wanting it done! Now gonna let it harden then sand the top again.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

A couple of questions that I could use some know how on.

1. I have a six inch line that has a tiny gap where the boards didnt quite join tightly enough. Probably handheld electric planer malfunction:yes:. Any way to hide it? Talking microscopic but still noticable to me. 

2. I had to sand the top where the boards joined pretty hard. It made the top slightly dipped in spots. Was thinking of renting a big floor drum sander to try and get it back fairly flat for the last sanding. See any problems with that or maybe a better idea?

Thanks for all suggestions.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Coming along nice. The epoxied cracks I think are going to add to the look.
It helps display the book matched appearance (if I'm seeing that right.).

1)You can make a white glue paste of sawdust and glue and get it into the crack to help hide the gap. Then sand er.

2)I've used floor sanders before.They will work but they can also cut fast if you re not careful.


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

You could belt sand the top, it also keeps from getting the swirl marks like orbital sanders can leave. The slight joining problem I don't think you should worry too much about. More black epoxy in the gaps. That top has checks and cracks, which I think really make the table, another small epoxy line should only add character. 

Are you planning on bowties?

Do you have any plans to allow the table top to move when placed on the legs? Depending on location and wood type it could move quite a bit. Az may not be as bad as other places, but just plan to allow for some movement just in case. I've had a top crack on me, and I had to start the finishing process over and it's a pain!


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

I wasnt planning on putting bowties. Not sure if it makes a difference but the wood was milled like 6 years ago and seems very dry. Also hoping that the epoxy will give the cracks some strength. I am planning on coutersinking the angle iron frame into the bottom of the table and epoxying it and screwing it to the boards. Then ataching it to the metal base. Hopefully in our AZ dry heat it doesnt move and crack but obviously Im new to all this and have no idea what im doing. I am crossing my fingers that 5 or 10 years down the road it is in one piece still:icon_smile:. 

Going to use two coats of dewaxed shellac and then some coats of Arm R Seal. Any one ever air brushed on Arm R Seal?


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Don't go too deep with your countersunk angle.
About 1/4 depth. I don't see the need of epoxying it in. The metals expansion rate vs wood is different. Let it float.

Verify shellac and Arm R Seal won't react with the Epoxy. I doubt it's an issues, since it is only a crack.

Can't speak for long term but your climate is pretty steady. I think you should be fine .


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

Just a tip on coloring epoxy-----powdered tempura paint----cheap--stores well--works great---


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Armor-seal brushes on like a dream. Use a foam brush and don't over brush. Don't touch the brush to the side of the can. Load the brush, gently shake the surplus off and go for it.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

So I flipped the table and with some help from a friend and my nephew got the underside epoxied and sanded. Put a couple coats of shellac and three coats of arm r seal. Then attached my metal frame. Went with strap instead of countersinking the angle iron.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Metal attached


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Flipped back over and put three shellac coats and 1st coat of arm r seal. Gonna put another coat tomorrow.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

It just gets awsomer!


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

That is gorgeous!


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

So those are strap iron? Do you consider them rigid enough? what is the thickness?
May I suggest 2 more intermediate runs in the center?
The reason I suggest that , is that I did the same on my own walnut table and it still moved and cupped on the outer boards. 
The second table I did w/ intermediates stayed flat. 
""Your mileage might vary""

Love how it's turning out.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Thanks, I am extremely happy and ready to get it done. The angle would have been way more rigid but I was nervous to cut into the table as they went right down the bottom of the cracks. The Table wont need much as it is mainly supported by the large metal base legs. At least that is what I am hoping!


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## JDMeek2020 (Dec 7, 2012)

*wow*

looking forward to seeing this finished project... For someone who "doesn't know what he's doing" this is great work (it is great for someone who does know what he's doing as well)....awesome job!!


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Ha. Thanks. I am really happy. I like the base real well also. I had a good friend that is a great wood worker and he put in a lot of time with me. Should look good in the dining room.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Got four coats of arm r seal then ran out. Gonna put a few more. In the mean time I mounted it on the base to see what its is going to look like. I am thrilled. Never know when you take an idea in your head, put it on paper, then make it, if it will work. Thanks for all of you who gave input it was appreciated and helpful.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Beautiful job. Doesn't look light. Lol


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Did you do something to the finish of the metal base? It looks like you let it oxidize.
The top turned out great.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Sprayed a mix I found on the internet that rusted the bases. Then sanded most of it back off and sprayed a clear coat on it. Put some heavy duty rollers in legs. Rolls to easy now so I'm gonna have to put some small chocks once its in place.


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## bberchin (Nov 25, 2012)

This table is just awesome- I've built a lot of tables and I'm continually inspired and challenged by what others do. Great work!


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## gudstuff (Feb 27, 2013)

*More is better*

When you secure the table to the legs more is better the wood will cup and when it dose you cannot get it back . I have seen many tear out screws when the wood was dried for years. Have a bar in my town that i questioned them when they put it in . Now it has an 8" lift and twist at the cash register (where it used to be)
Just my 2 cents looks great By the way
Tim
http://i.gudstuff.com/8874


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

You can get locking casters or use rubber cups under the wheels.

Interesting on letting it rust up, and a neet process. I.m considering doing that to a engine block coffee table I made on the blocks head surfaces, since even after clear coating it, it oxidized a tad. Might as well let the whole surface rust up, so I'll be sanding the surfaces down and letting it go to it's natural state (rust). The re-clear.


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

I sure dont want it to cup so I will definately look at putting a few more straps. Pretty quick and easy to drill and screw them on. It is only resting on the bases and bolted at the ends so your probably right about needing more. 

When I got done with welding up the legs and the turnbuckles I sprayed em with muratic to clean off the grease and oil. I then sprayed them with peroxide, vinegar and salt mixture that rusted them almost instantly. Kind of a fake reddish looking rust, but after I sanded the surface rust off and cleared them they darkened up to what I think is a nice color. The base was made with stuff I had around the shop. The middle sprocket I attached with a big grade 8 bolt that must of been zinc plated or something because it wouldnt rust. I ended up painting it brownish to match. The sprocket ended up being cast iron and didnt weld all that well with my mig welder, ha ha.


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## RogerInColorado (Jan 16, 2013)

Sorry about the sprocket. Chris Schwartz at Popular Woodworking just published a how to for removing zinc plating. He used a citric acid in water solution and got results in about 30 minutes. He called that one safe. He earlier had use a toilet bowl cleaner called "The Works" he got a Home Depot. It turns into hydrogen chloride, pretty nasty stuff, but it worked pretty fast. Stick it in your "the next time I do this" file.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/strip-zinc-with-citric-acid


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## USMCSergeant (Aug 21, 2012)

Looks great!


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

So I finally got the booth finished in my new house and got the table moved in. I am thrilled with how it turned out and fits. Especially considering my wife told me the size she wanted based on her house plan.


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## info (Oct 3, 2011)

Great job


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Beautiful!!!


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## Jakedunn (Feb 7, 2013)

Thanks, Local guy covered seats for me. couldnt find hangers I wanted so built my own for the backs.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Beautifully done!


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