# Installation help



## hyebred (Dec 30, 2008)

Anyone have suggestions for fastening cabinets to brick. Tapcon screws are not working.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Drill, glue and plug where screws are going to be, let dry hang cabinet.


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

*My first suggestion would be to erect a studwall*

and cover it in drywall. The studs could be layed on the flat to reduce the loss of space if that is a concern.

Ed


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Hyebred,
I would at least fasten a 1 x cleat on the wall top and bottom. For any exposed cabinet ends you will have to do a little trim work to hide the space made by the 1 x, no big deal. 
Mike Hawkins:smile:


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

firehawkmph said:


> Hyebred,
> I would at least fasten a 1 x cleat on the wall top and bottom. For any exposed cabinet ends you will have to do a little trim work to hide the space made by the 1 x, no big deal.
> Mike Hawkins:smile:


I have done this too. I run a 1x4 on the wall at the top and the bottom of were the cabinets are going to hang. I cut the ends of the 1x4s at a 45* angle and run a 1x4 verticle between them.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

With all of the suggestions above you still have to fasten something to brick.

The best solution would be that the wall behind the brick has an opening that will allow the use of Toggle Bolts,  DESCRIBED HERE 
If you can use these Toggle Bolts you can drill through either the brick or the mortar and have a strong, secure holding system.

If you cannot use these then you will need to use a system that expands in a hole that you drill into the brick. I do not recommend drilling into the mortar for this because it does not provide the strength. The old fashioned lead, plastic, or other soft material that you insert into a hole ad then screw into is also no good for what you want. You need a good quality Expansion Anchor designed for concrete/brick work. Your local big box store should have these.


In my experience, the key to fastening to brick is in having a good hammer drill and bit combination. You want to be able to drill an accurate hole that will be a good fit for the diameter that it is supposed to be. I have found that the ordinary drills that we have hanging around our workshops and the cheap masonary bits just do not drill a sufficiently accurate hole.

Much is going to depend upon the number of holes that you are going to have to drill. If you are just drilling a few holes you might get by with your current drill and a very good drill bit. Just be careful not to "wallow out" the holes.

Good luck.

George


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

You mentioned the tapcons are not working. I could see you having problems with them if you are relying on them to fasten the cabinets up and trying to keep everything lined up at the same time. But they should work for fastening a cleat to the wall. I have had very good luck with tapcons. Just a few things: they work best when going into a solid material. In other words, if you were going into a concrete block, aim for the solid webbing and not the hollow spot. The hole has to be a little deeper than the length of the fastener. You have to use the proper size masonry bit for the fastener. I use the bits that tapcon sells so there is no mistaking the proper size. Can you post some pics of the wall, maybe that would help. 
Mike Hawkins


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Sleeve anchors, like Red Heads, work well in brick.


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## Jason W (Dec 18, 2008)

The only problem with adding cleats of any size at this point (he has the cabinets) is that they wont fit in the corners if their are any. It will screw the whole lay out up.

I agree with Warner. At this point you might just bust out half a brick where needed and add a filler block so you have something to screw too.

Break out the brick and use some PL glue to hold it in. Make sure the hole is cleaned out well before you glue it. Give it 12 to 24 hours to set before you hang your Cabinets from it.


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## Jordy3738 (Jan 12, 2009)

We use something called "Red Heads" at times to anchor cabinets into concrete. Once they grab a hold it's a good grip. As previously mentioned, I've drilled 1/4" hole and driven wood shims in the hole and then screwed into the wood.


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