# woodworking bench



## jebbyjigsaw (Apr 12, 2010)

A few questions about constructing a woodworking bench. I'm considering making my first workbench. I have found a source for very old salvaged lumber. Thinking of a rather rough but extremely sturdy bench. The top is planned to be made of 2 planks 3" thick and 12"wide each (like some old benches were made). I can also get salvaged beams for the base. The questions I have are:

Can I leave the base elements rather rough or do I HAVE to plane all elements to perfectly square before construction?

My concrete is extremely uneven. How can I level the bench? It seems a little weird to make a heavy bench with 4x4 legs only to slip little wood shims underneath - wouldn't they move or compress?


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## dbol (Apr 3, 2010)

http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=2309&TabSelect=Details
You could use these from Rockler to adjust your table to level.
Where you are joing the two pieces I would say they need to be very square to each other. How do you plan on joining them?


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## dbol (Apr 3, 2010)

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2309
Sorry, these.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

yup, you can leave them rough. Be better to dimension them up nicely so you can get better joints and more stable table, but Ive made work benches with rough lumber before.


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

building this bench is a great opportunity to practice and hone your wood working skills.
dress the lumber, I say...


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## jebbylawless (Dec 31, 2008)

*Thanks!*

Thanks for the advice! I'll pick up a set of the levelers. I think that'll do the trick. 

I'm encouraged to see that I may be able to leave the lumber a little rough. I may yet try my hand at dressing it but my issues are that although I've been picking up planes (very used) and tuning them they remain for the most part untested so I don't want to get stuck either ruining a bunch of lumber or needing to buy more handtools. I also want to get a bench made so that my Summer project will not consist only of making a bench. I also don't have a bench to make the bench so I am not certain that I could dress the parts very square without a good flat reference surface.


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Jebbyjigsaw. A workbench is a very personal and critical tool. Perhaps the most important one you will have. It must hold everything you do and provide a reference plane for your work. If you want to do it with a finish to bring tears to the eyes of Duncan Fyffe or Chippendale:notworthy:, by all means do so, but lavish the work on the surface you must work on. Make it strong and heavy to resist your actions.

The best book I have seen on workbenches is by Chris Schwarz of Popular Woodworking. Takes you through an analysis of many benches and helps design a bench you only make once. It should outlast you.

The structure does not need to be highly surfaced, just cleaned up enough to avoid splinters! Levelers are OK, just make sure that they don't allow the bench to walk across the room as you plane or saw on it!:laughing:


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## mwhals (Apr 13, 2010)

My workbench is attached to the wall studs by lag screws. It doesn't move and it is perfectly level even though the floor isn't. I can jump up and down all day on this workbench and it will not move!


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

While I wouldn't worry about perfect, but a workbench project is a great skill honing project. Mill that lumber up nicely, and you won't have to spend too much time, effort, or frustration with your joinery...


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Any chance of a picture?


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## jebbylawless (Dec 31, 2008)

I'll post pics as the process unfolds. So far I have only cut a few stretcher beams to see if I could get the lumber square without any experience. I got stuck because my hand planes needed more tuning. The jointer's throat cloggs, my jack works pretty well but does not fall into the "obsessively flat" category - the right side of the heel is worn away about 1/8" from years of use by a previous owner. My foreplane and scrub and being tuned right now to get their irons cambered.

I picked up some fir timber. For the top I have 2 slabs of 4"x10"x7' planks. I want to leave as much length as possible but have a few concerns. One slab has a twist of 1/2" throughout the length. The other has a crown of about 1/2". I can't figure out if this is a lost cause or if I should attempt to plane these flat. I can't figure out how to establish a reference flat face on the large planks since their opposite face 'wobbles' as I try to hand plane them and I don't really have a large enough work surface.

Any ideas? Suggestions? I've considered running to the sawmill and crying "uncle".


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

I may have missed it, but what kind of wood are these two wonderful slabs? They may either accept planing quietly or get turned loose to show what stresses hide within! I don't know what a sawmill will do for you, except sell you more wood!

A power planer will quite possibly accomplish little or nothing. If it rocks, it will rock during planing and the pressure of the rollers may temporarily flatten the board only to have it go right back.

Hand planing will be a real bear, but you can straighten them.


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## Chris Adkins (May 12, 2010)

Like many have said on here building a bench is a personal experience. While there may be traditional ways...I don't think there is only one way to build your bench. Build it to suit you and make it sturdy. I do a lot of different project that not only include wood but also metal and glass so I often use metal and glass around my shop because I have access to it. The base of my bench is made with 4X4 steel post with 1 1/2" tube braces, you could sit a tank on it! The point is build it like you want and don't worry about what someone says you should do. Good luck!


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