# Is Bradford pear wood good for anything?



## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

My new place has a fair-sized Bradford pear tree (about 12" diameter) that I'd like to remove. Before it gets chopped into firewood, is there any reason to keep some for higher uses?


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## Rodrat (Aug 31, 2016)

I have no real knowledge of it but a quick search has brought up a lot of information on wood turning. Some of them are actually quite pretty so I'm sure there is some use to be had out of them.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

It could be OK for turning, but otherwise it is not even good for firewood.

George


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## rbcarving (Dec 10, 2016)

Pear turns nicely...a nice creamy color. Here is a guy on penturners who just made a dozen pens from a family Bradford tree.. 
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/12-pens-christmas-grandfathers-heirloom-145288/


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## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

Those are nice; too bad I don't have a lathe! Oh well, I have some woodturning friends who might want it.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

The wood is prtty dense, if you can get it dry and flat it does make some good looking projects.


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## Roybrew (Nov 2, 2016)

I'd say cut and store for a year or so. I'm no expert, but did that with my peach tree. I heard all kinds of people say the wood to soft, or it'll curl up and walk away after cutting it, etc etc. I left the logs whole and on a shelf in the basement. I keep a box fan running on low and I have a dehumidifier that keeps about 65% humidity down there. I have no regrets. It was fun to do and I thought it neat that I grew the tree in the yard. Didn't get a huge amount of wood but it made nice trinket boxes.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Hope so as I have stack of it in the basement- drying out for two years. Go to www.woodturner.org and ask the question there.


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## dearlw (Nov 16, 2015)

I haven't found a wood yet that I don't think looks good after creating a turning project. lol


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Haven't tried it but I'm told its good in the smoker. No idea about the flavor it imparts.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

We have several BP logs that have been sitting on the front porch drying out for several years now. There once was a big beautiful old tree out front that just decided to ruinate a car for reasons unknown other than an 'act of God'. Apparently god hates cars despite the claims of the Westborrow Baptist people.. It's real dense stuff and heavy. However, most is crotchwood so splitting it remotely straight is pretty much out of the question.. I might take the chainsaw to it someday to whittle it down to fit in the bandsaw..


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

David Earl Walker said:


> I haven't found a wood yet that I don't think looks good after creating a turning project. lol


 Pine usually turns pretty crappy, but I've only got a limited sample size to compare with.


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## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

Gary Beasley said:


> Haven't tried it but I'm told its good in the smoker. No idea about the flavor it imparts.


Might have to try that. I know "real" pear wood is good for smoking, but somehow I never thought of using the Bradford for that. My contempt for the tree must have blinded me to the obvious.


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## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

allpurpose said:


> We have several BP logs that have been sitting on the front porch drying out for several years now. There once was a big beautiful old tree out front that just decided to ruinate a car for reasons unknown other than an 'act of God'. Apparently god hates cars despite the claims of the Westborrow Baptist people.. It's real dense stuff and heavy. However, most is crotchwood so splitting it remotely straight is pretty much out of the question.. I might take the chainsaw to it someday to whittle it down to fit in the bandsaw..


Breaking and falling over are the Bradford pear's two favorite activities. That's one of the reasons I want to remove mine.

Mine has an unusually (for its kind) long clear bole, so I might be able to get some straight pieces out of it. I still haven't cut it; it keeps getting pushed back on the honey-do list.


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## Roybrew (Nov 2, 2016)

Nathan Parker said:


> Might have to try that. I know "real" pear wood is good for smoking, but somehow I never thought of using the Bradford for that. My contempt for the tree must have blinded me to the obvious.


I threw some extra pieces of cherry wood in with the charcoal on the grill.







Umm those sausages sure we're good. Cherry was very noticeable in the taste.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Roybrew (Nov 2, 2016)

Roybrew said:


> I threw some extra pieces of cherry wood in with the charcoal on the grill.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sorry I meant peach wood.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

David Earl Walker said:


> I haven't found a wood yet that I don't think looks good after creating a turning project. lol


Couldn't agree more!!

Bradford (straight or crooked) has all kinds of good applications from turning to light timber framing elements within a structure under roof. Not a bad smoke wood either, but not compared to maple, apple, peach, alder or cherry...Burns o.k. for heating, but then again I design/build Masonry Heaters occasionally, and burn mainly softwoods which is the norm globally for heating...so my perspective is different on that perspective...

I say take it down and save it till reading to try your hand at turning (or making a pole lathe perhaps.) It's a fast growing wood and have help folks make a few Shaving Horse out of them over the years as the wood is common now in urban areas...


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## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

Thanks for the ideas, Jay! I've been considering making a pole lathe and a shaving horse. I'll have to make a bigger workshop first...


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## blktoptrvl2 (Jul 18, 2016)

GeorgeC said:


> It could be OK for turning, but otherwise it is not even good for firewood.
> 
> George


I just found a site that says the wood burns very clean and hot.

https://www.firewood-for-life.com/bradford-pear-firewood.html


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## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

When you cut it down, cut it into lumber or quarter it right away so it doesn't develop a bunch of shrinkage cracks.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Gary Beasley said:


> The wood is prtty dense, if you can get it dry and flat it does make some good looking projects.



Bradford Pair is not dense. I think of it as very soft. 



George


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## sunnybob (Sep 3, 2016)

This guy seems to like them (lol)
https://eu.greenvilleonline.com/story/life/2016/03/21/curse-bradford-pear/82070210/


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Pear and many other fruit woods were prize woods to make hand planes. I have cut logs 3' in length, debarked, split in half, then applied titebondII on the ends and stored in the garage for 6 to 10 years. They had very little checking and made stunning hand planes. If you are a woodworking lover, it is worth the wait for that very special project.


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## sunnybob (Sep 3, 2016)

I'm working right now on a piece of swiss pear I was given. looks a lot like cherry in colour, but very open grain and quite brittle.
dont think I would actually buy any.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

*Known facts about Pyrus calleryana (Callery Pear)*

*SCIENTIFIC AND VERNACULAR NOMENCLATURE*

Family: Rosaceae

Genus: Pyrus

Species: calleryana

Common Vernacular Names: Chanticleer Pear, Callery Pear, and current common horticulture name: Bradford Pear. Korean: 콩배나무 (Kongbaenamu - Bean Pear) China: 豆梨 (Dòu lí - Bean Pear)

*ENVIRONMENTAL:*

This species is native to China, Korea and Vietnam.

It is now an invasive species in all other locations due to hybridization. It was a "sterile cultivar" in the beginning of its application in landscaping. The species is now causing environmental impact issues with native species of tree. It continues to have issues with bark inclusion at primary leader (limb) unions (crotch) and is known to fail commonly due this to structurally weak leader union at the primary trunk which leads to property damage as a yard cultivar near architecture. It is *recommended for removal* now by many Tree Warden, Arborist, City Planers and Foresters/Ecologists.

*WOOD CHARACTERISTIC AND USE:*

It is known to have the same characteristics of most within the genus Pyrus (Pear.) Its janka hardness ranges around 1,660 lbf (7,380 N) similar to many "fruit woods" which is greater than Q. alba (White Oak) or Acer (Maple) species. As such Pyrus calleryana develops hard, dense wood that is used in:

High-quality furniture

Wind instruments 

Turning projects

Kitchen items (spoons, bowls, cutting boards, butcher blocks, etc)

It is considered, by most sources, to be an excellent fire wood when dry and many enjoy the flavor imparted by the species for smoked meats especially when augmented with other species and/or mermaids.

I personally have found it to spalt nicely when give the proper conditions and makes bread small boxes, and cabinet panels for tradtional framework. It can often rives/splits "chunky" so can be a challenge if new to this method of processing wood, and though known for twisting when it dries within kilns, it air dries nicely if done slowly and/or "water logged" first. As a green woodworker, I like the species when I can find a clear limb or bolt from a but log.

When the size allows, this wood can (and has been) employed within small timber frame projects with the wood structurally (i.e modulus of rupture, elasticity, compression) presenting with similar or greater strength characteristics than a species like Pinus strobus (White Pine.)


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## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

Thanks for all the suggestions! The tree is still standing, because I'm a lazy bum, so I still have options. Spoons are an intriguing notion and seem like a good entry to working green wood, which I have no experience with.

I've now also got to take down a dying American elm. I'll see if any of that wood is salvageable and figure out some projects for it too.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Nathan Parker said:


> Thanks for all the suggestions...Spoons are an intriguing notion and seem like a good entry to working green wood, which I have no experience with...


You are most welcome, and I hope you try your hand at green woodworking. Its a great foundational skill to have!

Regards,

j


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

> The tree is still standing, because I'm a lazy bum


Just wait for high winds. The subdivision behind us is Bradford Place. The main road is lined with the trees. About 1/3 have had limbs broken off or completely blown down. They are out in an open area and there are no wind breaks around.


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## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

Pineknot_86 said:


> Just wait for high winds. The subdivision behind us is Bradford Place. The main road is lined with the trees. About 1/3 have had limbs broken off or completely blown down. They are out in an open area and there are no wind breaks around.


Oh, I know. Here in Tornado Alley I see plenty of downed, cracked, or shivered Bradfords - that's half the reason I want it gone. Other, more urgent priorities just seem to keep popping up around the house. The homeowner's quandary, I guess.


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## Nathan Parker (Jul 23, 2016)

Thanks Jay! I'm going to put some basic carving tools high on my "when I have money" list this coming year.


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## Brian T (Nov 3, 2018)

If your wood is broadly spalted like the pictures in this thread, forget small spoons.
They won't ever be a showcase for the visual figure in your wood.
Carve spoons if you want but I would look at much larger designs.
Big ladles. Feast dishes. Kuksa. Prep forks. Coffee scoops



Cut say 24" bolts and slab them 6/4 and 8/4.
Paint the ends to reduce checking then stack and sticker to air dry for 2-3 years.
Save all the clean chips for BBQ smoke wood.


This means you can basically ignore the wood to settle down while you get on with other house stuff.
But, you have a stash. Value-added when you care for it. Maybe sell some.
I bought a lot of really fantastic birch that way.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Brian T said:


> If your wood is broadly spalted like the pictures in this thread, forget small spoons...Cut say 24" bolts and slab them 6/4 and 8/4...Paint the ends to reduce checking then stack and sticker to air dry for 2-3 years...Save all the clean chips for BBQ smoke wood...


Hi Brian,

I'm unclear on some points and on other I'm not sure I could agree with the share perspectives...

The wood chips for smoking meat is a grand use for this wood in my experience. Especially if augmented with other species of fruit wood and/or marinated first for added flavor...

As for not making spoons or related items if "broadly spalted" logs. That doesn't make any sense to me as that is exactly the type of wood you are looking for...just like in the picture. Splatted kitchen wear items have been some of my most stunning work in the past, and that of collegues as well. They bring top dollar and are hard to come by for consumers. Unless the wood is completely rotted it works fine. Even if punky and soft, if the pattern is extra special, plant based wood solidifies can be used to harden the wood and then the items shaped with rotary type carving methods. More difficult, but the results can be stunning...

On the slabbing of bolts, one its really hard to effectively mill 24" lengths on mill, so I will presume you mean resewing on a vertical shop band mill? As for drying, that is an option for...some work...but not spoons, bowls and related. It can be done, that's true, but it isn't the standard nor the tradition. These are made by working green wood most typically. As for other items that too is a personal choice more than "need to" perspective. I don't work in dry wood too often and I make all manner of thing, from building to furniture...

If I missed anything, or miss understood, do please correct me...

Regards,

j

"Whittle and Stitch Green Wood Carving"



















"V/M Green Wood Spoons" Spalted Maple










"Spalted Pecan"


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## Brian T (Nov 3, 2018)

All is well. I was observing the degree to which the lines of the spalting traversed the wood.
All of your pieces show a very fine spalting = lots and lots of lines throughout the wood.


Yes, I guess that a big bandsaw for resaw is what I had in mind from my carving perspective.


Spalted birch is used here for water ladles in sweat lodge ceremonies.
Try as I might, I've never had any success to finish a ladle (spalted woods) without some substantial piece breaking out.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Brian T said:


> All is well. I was observing the degree to which the lines of the spalting traversed the wood...All of your pieces show a very fine spalting = lots and lots of lines throughout the wood...Yes, I guess that a big bandsaw for resaw is what I had in mind from my carving perspective...Spalted birch is used here for water ladles in sweat lodge ceremonies.
> Try as I might, I've never had any success to finish a ladle (spalted woods) without some substantial piece breaking out.



Phew...:thumbup:...That makes me feel better Brian,

There are some key members here on this forum that if I'm not on the same page with them about a topic...I check myself...to see if I am missing something or confused about there perspective/meaning...

It is a real challenge with some species/genera (Acer, Platanus, Populus, Betula, Fagus, ) that once the figure within the spalt gets to where it is really nice (aka heavy "zone line effect") then it can also go really soft too. This isn't always the case thought. Please don't ask me why...I would be guessing at my best. I have been studying this for 40 years now and can't figure out why two logs, from the same tree mind you!!!, look the same in pattern...yet!!!... one "goes punky" and the other is hard as a rock...:vs_whistle::vs_worry:...It just is mysterious, or was to me, until I began to understand successional fungi progression in wood and how one could control "rot" to a degree. There is much research and work to do, and thank goodness others are very keen on this subject! More is learned each year...

Dr. Sara Robinson has made some great videos on the subject and is a great POC if wanting to really dig into the "tech side" of all this for us "wood :nerd2: geeks." 

northernspalting.com and spaltwood.com are both great resources to get started on with the subject if you have a tendency to like the science side of woodworking...
*
Fixes for Soft Wood in Spalt*

There has been some ground breaking work done since the late 70's and 80' with Methyl Methacrylate modalities to solidify and harden wood. This same organic compound is used in grouts for orthopedic surgery joint replacement. It is relatively benign in nature, yet for me it is still a rather invasive chemical. I personally have had success enough with hardening oils, and with very special pieces plant based (safer) food grade epoxies.

Once a spalted area that has gone soft is hardened, often it can be worked just like regular wood. This isn't always the case, yet for special patterned pieces its worth the effort I have found. However, if growing and nurturing your own spalted wood, one has more control, and/or more than enough wood to do the required projects so the expense of fiscal, time and material resources aren't necessary. It is nice to have the methods understood though as a way to perhaps just "tweak" a piece here or there if necessary...

For thin necked ladles perhaps some of the methods would help or perhaps more controlled maturation of the wood is in order?

Regards,

j


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