# First time desk. Thoughts on design



## NLarson801 (May 4, 2016)

Hello,

I have been tinkering around with woodworking a bit, mainly making picture frames for my photography. I have been wanting to make a larger project and have spent a lot of time watching woodworking youtube video's. I finally decided that since I need a new office desk I would attempt to make one. While searching around youtube I stumbled upon this cool Japanese-y bench design and thought with some changes it would actually make a cool desk design. 






So I fired up Sketchup and quickly made an early mock-up. I still need to add some supports to the back to stabilize the desk and add some small drawers to it.


desk by Nick Larson, on Flickr

As for materials and color I had thought about making it all in walnut, but then decided that it would be really expensive and also it would be nice to have some contrasting colors. So then I played with the idea of a walnut top and some black legs with the black stringers going across the top. I think it looks pretty good.


desk color by Nick Larson, on Flickr

Today I will try working on some designs for some support and drawers. I have toyed with the idea of either two horizontal slats in the back legs, or an X pattern. Right now I am leaning towards the horizontal slats as it seems to fit the design better.


----------



## Brian(J) (Feb 22, 2016)

*pretty nice.*

Hi Nick, I like where you are going with this. One thing I would consider, the stretchers between the legs you show in a horizontal plane, you might flip them vertical. To me that would look better. It would also resist racking front to back much better. I think I would also make them 1/2" or 5/16" thick so they don't look so 1" x 4".

Best of luck,

Brian


----------



## Wyteness (Jan 6, 2016)

I have no build input. But I do REALLY like this design. Keep us updated!


----------



## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

For what it's worth, from a wood selection standpoint, I also think you might consider cherry for your top. A cherry top against dark legs would give great contrast and as the cherry ages it would pick up a nice look I think.


----------



## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

That's a nice design. Depending on the thickness of the top you may need some support (apron). I like it better without aprons but sag looks worse. Also need to consider how the legs attach over the top while still allowing for wood movement. Maybe it's not attached...and the top just slides in and it's a friction fit...


----------



## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

I think it's a great design and I also love the style.I would have also added another bottom stretcher.
Very nice video and I will check out your others.


While not japanesish but more European I thought you may appreciate some of the work of James Krenov and his students at the College of the Redwoods if your not familiar with him.I'm a huge fan and his work influenced some of mine .
http://crfinefurniture.com/projects/


----------



## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Just remember that gravity is your friend. There is no known need to attach the top to the frame. None. You cannot move it, otherwise. I have 5 desks. None of the tops have floated away in the past 20 years. The top on this one is 32" x 96". 3 computers, 2 printers, a scanner and a couple of outboard writers and drives on the deck allow me to sleep in peace. Plan for it.


----------



## Nguyen Duc (May 9, 2016)

wow look simple but very nicely


----------



## NLarson801 (May 4, 2016)

It's been a while, but I am finally in a place where I can start working on this desk. The design I made has a 1.5" top and is 60" long and 30" wide. I think the substantial size of the top would look great, but looking at my local hardwood supplier 25 BF of 8/4 Walnut is $376.16. That is going to drive the cost of the desk waaay up. What is everyone's opinion on thinning out the top?

As for the legs, I have some samples of Maple, Cherry, and Oak at home that I am going to test out some black ebonizing procedures on to see which one looks best.


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

You can make the top thinner. But, then use trim (or call it an apron or whatever) on the sides that is 1 1/2" deep. It will make the top look 1 1/2" thick.

However, I do not think that you are going to save enough to make up for the difference is what you want.

George.


----------



## NLarson801 (May 4, 2016)

GeorgeC said:


> You can make the top thinner. But, then use trim (or call it an apron or whatever) on the sides that is 1 1/2" deep. It will make the top look 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> However, I do not think that you are going to save enough to make up for the difference is what you want.
> 
> George.


I don't know that an apron would really work with the tapered ends would it?


----------



## NLarson801 (May 4, 2016)

I'm looking for opinions on how cut the taper on the ends of the table top. I had someone suggest a bandsaw, but that would only work if the individual top boards were cut one at a time and matching them could be a pain. The diagonal is a little over 5" so cutting it with a table saw with the top on end wouldn't really work I don't think. Plus building a jig to hold it upright would be a bit difficult.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Using a combination of Walnut plywood and Walnut hardwood for the top might cut your cost. 
You will have Walnut plywood left over from the project because you won’t use a full sheet. 
Center piece: made up of two thicknesses of plywood. 
Choose your overall thickness. 3/4” + 1/4” = 1”
3/4” + 1/2” = 1 1/4”
3/4” + 3/4” = 1 1/2”
A solid Walnut hardwood edge will be joined as a leading edge two thicknesses of plywood so no plys are visible. 
Solid Walnut is joined at the seam under the solid hardwood cross grain pieces at each end for the tapered ends. 
The two cross grain pieces will hide the seam where the plywood joins the hardwood. 
Just another construction method.


----------



## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

NLarson801 said:


> I'm looking for opinions on how cut the taper on the ends of the table top. I had someone suggest a bandsaw, but that would only work if the individual top boards were cut one at a time and matching them could be a pain. The diagonal is a little over 5" so cutting it with a table saw with the top on end wouldn't really work I don't think. Plus building a jig to hold it upright would be a bit difficult.




I would taper it with hand planes. 


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


----------



## NLarson801 (May 4, 2016)

I am currently building a 1/4 scale version to give me an idea of how everything will go together. I started hand planing the taper on it. I think it would be a good idea for someone who is well skilled with planes. I only own a cheap block plane, so I don't have the equipment nor do I think I am skilled enough.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

NLarson801 said:


> I am currently building a 1/4 scale version to give me an idea of how everything will go together. I started hand planing the taper on it. I think it would be a good idea for someone who is well skilled with planes. I only own a cheap block plane, so I don't have the equipment nor do I think I am skilled enough.


If you used the method of construction I suggested above you could cut the tapered ends quickly on a table saw.


----------



## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

what tools do you have available?

the tapers could also be done by constructing a sled for a router, followed by sanding, etc.
or, given the fairly limited amount of taper length, even a belt sander and "great care"

it's a neat design - the first photo looks like the legs 'slide on' - but your drawing looks like they are inset into the top. a contrasting color scheme would be more my style - ie walnut and maple vs walnut and (something bloack)

if your going to do the top by pieces/lamination and the top leg runner is inset, the end pieces could be smaller and more manageable on a band/table saw.

I second the idea of rotating the horizontal leg braces to vertical/parallel with the leg edge - better stability.


----------



## NLarson801 (May 4, 2016)

I currently don't have a shop so I will be doing the build at a local maker shop that gives access to many tools. I don't think they will have any planes.

I had thought about making the jig to hold the table top vertical and cutting the taper as far as I can with a table saw. Then I could use that as a cutting guide to cut the remainder with a hand saw.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

NLarson801 said:


> I currently don't have a shop so I will be doing the build at a local maker shop that gives access to many tools. I don't think they will have any planes.
> 
> I had thought about making the jig to hold the table top vertical and cutting the taper as far as I can with a table saw. Then I could use that as a cutting guide to cut the remainder with a hand saw.


You could cut the tapers on each board prior to glue-up. And although it would most likely be uneven and need work; 90% of your taper work would be done. You could quickly complete it with a hand plane or a belt sander.


----------



## NLarson801 (May 4, 2016)

Toolman50 said:


> You could cut the tapers on each board prior to glue-up. And although it would most likely be uneven and need work; 90% of your taper work would be done. You could quickly complete it with a hand plane or a belt sander.


I thought about that too, that way I could set up a fence on a band saw at the correct angle and cut them.


----------

