# Danish oil question



## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I have made a box out of walnut, with inlaid maple dovetails (pictures to follow later in the project showcase). I want to try something different for the finish on this one and I have never used danish oil. I can get some clear danish oil tomorrow. I guess my questions are these..............
1) what should I expect from this oil as far as ease of application?
2) what would be the best method for me to apply this danish oil for the best results?
3) what kind of luster does danish oil provide, if any?
4) is danish oil a durable finish?
5) will the oil yellow over time and take away from the contrast between maple and walnut?

Basically, any information that you fellas are willing to share about danish oil would be greatly appreciated. I've never used it and just don't know what to expect.
Thanks


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

guess my questions are these..............
1) what should I expect from this oil as far as ease of application?
Any oil is easy to apply. Put some on the applicator, or pour a little on the wood then spread with the applicator.
Watch as the oil is absorbed and keep wiping the "pooled" areas over the "dry" areas.

2) what would be the best method for me to apply this danish oil for the best results?
Either lint free cloth 
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=49422&cat=1,190,43034&ap=2

or pad type applicators.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=49423&cat=1,190,43034&ap=2

I use pieces of the lint free cloth.

You can even use paper towel, it just may break apart before you are completed.

3) what kind of luster does danish oil provide, if any?
I think this depends on the brand. I think low lustre, but you can always buff it or apply wax.

4) is danish oil a durable finish?
This will not be a film over the wood, rather being absorbed into the grain. Looks nice. Water resistant at the beginning.
I feel oil will dry over time. Good news is easy to re-apply.

5) will the oil yellow over time and take away from the contrast between maple and walnut?
I would expect some yellowing, but maple and walnut are so different in colour, you will still see the contrast.
The walnut will go from dull brown to a rich brown with any oil.
This example was just "Butcher block cutting board" oil, namely mineral oil with no pigments.

Cherry ends, black walnut and oak.









Forgot to mention, you should apply a few coats. Takes more than 1 coat to get good penetration across the piece.
Normal instructions will say to let it stand for x minutes and wipe off the excess.
I constantly wipe until absorbed, leave a short time, then add the next coat.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

"Danish Oil" packaged as "Danish Oil Finish" is basically an oil/varnish/mineral spirit mix. It's a stand alone film finish, that can be wiped on. If you chose a "clear" it will be void of tints, but will instill an amber tone due to the oil (BLO) in the mix. 

As for a sheen, the varnish in the mix could be a gloss or a satin. You could mix your own, and vary the 1/3 ratios to suit your taste.









 







.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

It is very easy to apply: flood it on, adding more anywhere it looks dry, until it quit taking more oil. Then wait ten minutes, and wipe it down. Traditionally you apply three coats letting it dry a few hours in between coats. 

It definitely will pop the grain of your wood. And if you continually apply more coats it becomes durable. The old adage is once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a year, and once a month forever. It is my preferred finish for gun stocks, and tool handles, as it is really easy to touch up as you get the inevitable dings and scratches. 

It has a bit of a gloss, but not much of one. But it depends on how much varnish it has in it. 

I blend my own. 2 parts blo, 1 part varnish, 1part mineral spirits, is the starter for the first few coats. Then I add more varnish and mineral spirits until I get to a wiping varnish.

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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

You can apply danish oil and get a high gloss if you want or anything in-between. The real secret with danish oil is to wet sand the first few coats into the wood. This creates a slurry out of the sawdust and resin on the danish oil and fills the grain. very similar to doing a french polish finish. I start with 400 grit wet or dry paper and if I want a REALLY nice finish I will wet sand 4 coats going to a finer grit each day. 400 then 600 then 800 then 1200.

Each coat is after 24 hours drying. Now you can apply a quality paste wax and buff to a very nice gloss. If you don't want gloss just stop at 400 or 600 grit and don't wet sand as many times.

Do a sample board and try it out. It is truly one of the most beautiful finishes there is.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

also dif brands will produce dif sheens. depends on the mix. i find deft to be on the glosier side down to watco witch will give a more satin. i prefure making my own. of turp-blo-pine tar-japan dry
i like that idea wet sanding first coat, but then again it depends on the wood. i stay away from any wax on furniture.


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Ken, look at any of my projects, all I use is watco. I have the tinted versions for the different species, walnut, oak, cherry, etc.

You can apply Danish oil, then gloss poly if you prep it right, really pops out if you do both.

I have never used a stain, everything is either watco, poly, or if needed mineral oil.

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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Wow, thanks for the replies guys. There's a lot of information there. I'm going to give it a try tomorrow. I'm just concerned out the wet sanding part of it. Will the slurry that is created stain the maple inlays?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The only Danish oil finish I've used is Watco. I used it in 1972 in High School to finish a grandfather clock I built. The clock was made out of walnut and I sanded it through 400 grit and finished it with the clear finish. I just used one application applied with a rag and I haven't done anything else with the finish on the clock since. As far as I can tell the color is the same today as it always has. Just looking at it, it looks like it has a satin finish on it. On the other hand in the 1980's I built a bookcase out of oak and used the Watco with the pecan color and it doesn't look too good. Initially it looked real good but now it looks dry and the doors where they have been handled have dark marks from skin oil and dirt.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> The only Danish oil finish I've used is Watco. I used it in 1972 in High School to finish a grandfather clock I built. The clock was made out of walnut and I sanded it through 400 grit and finished it with the clear finish. I just used one application applied with a rag and I haven't done anything else with the finish on the clock since. As far as I can tell the color is the same today as it always has. Just looking at it, it looks like it has a satin finish on it. On the other hand in the 1980's I built a bookcase out of oak and used the Watco with the pecan color and it doesn't look too good. Initially it looked real good but now it looks dry and the doors where they have been handled have dark marks from skin oil and dirt.


So apply a new coat. It is pretty easy, if you wipe it on at the dirty spots with some of the fine synthetic steel wool pads like the scotch brite pads. You can nick the grease dirt gunk off.

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## KRM45 (Nov 27, 2011)

Here's a walnut/maple aquarium stand I just finished with Watco.









It was easy to apply, and I'm happy with the result.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

jigs-n-fixtures said:


> So apply a new coat. It is pretty easy, if you wipe it on at the dirty spots with some of the fine synthetic steel wool pads like the scotch brite pads. You can nick the grease dirt gunk off.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


 It's on my to do list that I've been adding to over the years. Actually if I get to it I'm going to strip it, sand it and put a polyurethane finish on it. From now on I will leave the Danish Oil to walnut.


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## slevapaul (Aug 25, 2012)

Furniture is the most important part in the home and it needs the best finishing. The oil based paintings offers the best finishing to the furniture which can spread eventually through each and every corner of the furniture part.


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## Andrew LB (Oct 30, 2012)

Rick Mosher said:


> You can apply danish oil and get a high gloss if you want or anything in-between. The real secret with danish oil is to wet sand the first few coats into the wood. This creates a slurry out of the sawdust and resin on the danish oil and fills the grain. very similar to doing a french polish finish. I start with 400 grit wet or dry paper and if I want a REALLY nice finish I will wet sand 4 coats going to a finer grit each day. 400 then 600 then 800 then 1200.
> 
> Each coat is after 24 hours drying. Now you can apply a quality paste wax and buff to a very nice gloss. If you don't want gloss just stop at 400 or 600 grit and don't wet sand as many times.
> 
> Do a sample board and try it out. It is truly one of the most beautiful finishes there is.


You use the exact same method I use for gun stocks. I'm not a big fan of glossy finishes on firearms like they all seem to come with today, so I typically finish the wet sanding w/danish oil @ 2000 grit and some Watco satin wax.


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## Jophus14 (Aug 21, 2012)

Lots of good info here. Thanks.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Kenbo said:


> Will the slurry that is created stain the maple inlays?


It shouldn't, maple doesn't have open pores so the slurry from the walnut should just wipe right off the maple. I would do a sample board (Just glue a strip of maple and walnut together) and see for myself.


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## Jophus14 (Aug 21, 2012)

Kenbo, did you ever apply the danish oil to your box? I am also building a box using walnut and maple and I was curious as how everything worked out for you. Thanks.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Jophus14 said:


> Kenbo, did you ever apply the danish oil to your box? I am also building a box using walnut and maple and I was curious as how everything worked out for you. Thanks.


 
I did in fact apply the Danish oil and was very happy with the results. You can find the results here


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## Jophus14 (Aug 21, 2012)

Thanks for the reply. That box turned out really nice. I bet the couple that received it were extremely happy. Besides the danish oil, what else did you apply to the box as part of the finishing process (wax, poly, shellac, etc)? Since this will be my first time using danish oil, is there any tips/suggestions that you might have after applying it to your project? Thanks.


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## RNrunner (Dec 12, 2019)

Would I be able to get a more walnut color if I applied the medium walnut over the natural. I applied a few coats of natural and not in love with the color. Is it possible to still be able to apply one of the tinted watco oils without removing all of the natural first?


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## GeneT (Feb 24, 2014)

It has been my experience that once you apply Danish oil, applying a darker tinted one will not change the color. I also want to add that please make sure you dispose of the rags properly. They can spontaneously combust. I usually open them up and spread on concrete or hand up to dry until hard. They are safe to dispose of then.


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## RNrunner (Dec 12, 2019)

I thought this might be the case. If I decide to remove it, what is the best way?


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## GeneT (Feb 24, 2014)

IMHO because the oil penetrates the wood you won't be able to remove it. You may be able to use a gel finish but it would obscure the grain.


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## RNrunner (Dec 12, 2019)

Well, I did at least try and remove it. It took a very long time, but I think I got the majority of it off. I won't be trying that again though!


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