# Help: problem with old Craftsman 100 table saw



## mofo83 (Oct 4, 2011)

Hello,

Today, I picked up my first table saw - a VERY old Craftsman 100 10" model. I have had good luck with other older power tools, which I like because they are built like TANKS (my old jointer is great) and are cheap on Craigslist.

I got it home, plugged it in, and tried running a 1/2" inch pine board through it. It cut it okay at first, but about 6" or so into the cut, the blade slowed down and then stopped. I could back the board out, the blade would get up to speed again, I would try to continue with the cut, and it would slow and stop almost immediately. 

*Any idea why this might happen?* 

Keep in mind I'm totally new to woodwork, so it could be user error.

My thought is that either the motor is weak from old age (?) or that the blade/fence aren't paralell for some reason, so maybe it's pinching as it moves across the blade? Also, I noticed that the motor was not "locked" in place, but could move up or down, and was only putting pressure on the belt via gravity. I thought it might be slipping or something, so I put a little tension on the belt and tightened the mount. Maybe it is still not puttting enough tension on the belt? 

Thanks!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I had that model saw for 50 years.*

OK, what stopped? The blade or the motor? If you've stalled the motor that's not good. If the blade is slipping on the belt, the motor may not be forward enough to "weight" the belt tight. The position of the motor on the 2 sliding rods is critical to keep the belt under tension. Make sure the sliding washer is loose enough to allow the motor to rise and fall easily.

If the motor is stalling, the wiring may be inadequate, the cord running to the motor, the switch or the outlet supplying the power is overloaded.. Does it blow a breaker?
Does the cord feel warm?

Lastly, the motor pulley or the arbor pulley may be slipping. With the cord unplugged, grasp the blade or wedge it with a stick and try to turn the belt by hand. If it slips easily somethin's loose. The pulleys have square keys that locate them on the shafts. Make sure the keys are in place and tight.

Check back in.  bill


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## mofo83 (Oct 4, 2011)

Hi, thanks for the quick reply. If it worked for you for 50 years, it should certainly be good enough for my limited needs! 

It was the blade that stopped. It would sound like it was struggling to make the cut as I pushed the board forward, then it would decelerate until it stopped completely. If I backed the board off, it would get back up to speed. 

So, the motor should be able to rise and fall on it's mount, huh? I'll loosen up that bolt I tightened  

I'll check out the things you mentioned and check back in. I did notice that the belt and/or the motor pulley was a little warm 

Thanks again.

PS - Great _looking_ saw, eh? Looks like a '50's Buick or something! They don't make 'em like that anymore.


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## mofo83 (Oct 4, 2011)

Hi,

I checked the things you mentioned, and it really doesn't seem to be electrical. Also, the belt isn't slipping, and the pulleys are snugly in place. 

I put on a new blade with a thinner kerf, which seems to help. It cuts smoothly through 6/4 oak... UNTIL I get about 8" - 10" into the cut, when I think I start to hear the blade rubbing, and if I continue the cut, the blade slows and stops. With some back and forth, I can complete the cut. Afterward, I can see that there are burn marks on the wood.

I checked to see if the fence was sqaure/paralell with the table, and it seems to be close, though there is a little play in it before it locks down, to the point that sometimes it will line up perfectly with the miter guide channel, sometimes it will be about 1/32" or 1/16" off.

The thing that concerns me is that when I bring the fence right against the blade, it seems like the BLADE is the thing that is off. It will touch the fence on the far edge, and it will be about 1/8" away from the fence on the near edge. If I push the fence so that it IS paralell to the blade, then lock it down, I can see with a rafter square that the fence is then NOT square with the table. 

Any thoughts on what I should do? 

Also, the piece that sits on the table around the blade, that is supposed to be flush with the top of the table, is not perfectly flush with the table... it protrudes very slightly in spots. Could this add to my problems? 

Does anyone know where I might be able to find an owner's manual for this saw? 

Thanks!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*there are 2 things to do*

After unplugging the saw....
First check to see if the blade is parallel to the right hand miter slot by using an adjustable tri-square set to just touch a marked tooth facing right on the blade at the front. Then rotate the blade around to the back and check to see it it just touches the same amount. The blade must have the same dimension front to rear to the slot. If not, you have a slight problem.

Next:
The carriage that holds the arbor has trunnions that allow the whole assembly to tilt. These are held to the bottom of the saw in 4 places by bolts with star washers. This assembly must be twisted every so slightly so that the blade at 90 degrees, IS parallel to the right hand miter slot. 
Figure out if the assembly has to rotate at the from to line up or the rear and loosen 3 of the 4 bolts that will allow it to pivot around the remaining one to line up parallel with the slot. CAUTION. Loosen them just enough to rotate the carriage assembly, not so much to allow it to drop down. The amount you have to rotate it is miniscule. 
This may take several attempts to get just right and go easy when you tighten the bolts back up. Do one at a time and then recheck for parallel. When all is good then you can wrench them down snug.
The fence must also be parallel to the right hand miter slot.
Loosen the bolts and line it up flush with the slot, tighten them up slowly and recheck.

Your blade and fence then will end up parallel to each other and to the miter slot, which is the reference for this adjustment process. Good Luck,  bill


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## mofo83 (Oct 4, 2011)

Excellent, I will try this out. I have a feeling this is what is causing the issues I'm having. I'll let you know what I find out. I'm excited to get the first trouble-free cut! 

Thanks


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

When you check the blade to be square to the miter slot, you can use the left slot if you wish. With the saw unplugged, raise the blade all the way and use the same tooth at the front of the blade (at the table), and then rotate to the rear. Take a measurement from the edge of the tooth to the miter slot at both locations. The high blade will provide a longer point of measure to the slot edge.

Once you do that, rotate the blade 180 degrees, and repeat the process at a different tooth. If the blade measures the same at the four points of measure, the blade is square to the table. If the blade is the same at say 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, but different at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, it could be a warped blade, or dirt or debris where the blade mounts the the arbor, or the arbor itself. 

Then measure the fence to the miter slot to check for parallel. If it's out, adjust the fence to parallel.

One more thing to check, and it's electrical. Your motor may have a start and a run capacitor. The start allows the electrical load to get the blade spinning, the run capacitor carries on to run under load after that. I'm no electrical genius, so that's how I describe them. Have them both checked.










 







.


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## mofo83 (Oct 4, 2011)

I used the very easy and handy tri-square method you guys suggested and found that the blade is indeed not square at all with the miter slot. It is about 1/8 to 3/16 off from front to back (I measured various different teeth, as well.) This has to be what is causing the pinching problems I mentioned... right? 

I didn't have time to fix it yet today, but I will try doing so by this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. 

Thanks again!


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## vinnypatternmaker (Mar 27, 2011)

Hi!
I think these guys hit the problem, from what you said. Such a high tolerance front to back, can be downright dangerous! 
The protruding insert you mentioned may bump the stock ever so slightly (but enough) to add to your misery. That's an easy fix, but not your main problem!
Cabinetman and others have given you great adjustment advice. Capacitor(s) may have to be looked into as well! 
Old Craftsman were great long lasting machines (we own 2) and can be upgraded with aftermarket fences, etc. They were built largly for the average "Joe", but Sears estimated "Joe's" lifespan to be a few hundred years LOL!
Enjoy your "adventure and "new" saw, Best
Marena


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## mofo83 (Oct 4, 2011)

Thanks Vinny. 

Still haven't had a chance to fix the blade angle. 

But... what is the "easy fix" for the warped/unlevel insert?

And yes, apparently the "average joe" they had in mind needed a saw that could survice a nuclear meltdown!


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## vinnypatternmaker (Mar 27, 2011)

Hi, Mofo,
Without a picture for reference, I can guess; a) insert is sheet steel w/tabs designed to be carefully bent up or down, until throat plate is flush with cast table, many are fastened w/ a single slotted screw, b) much older models may utilize a steel insert (heavier duty) and can be removed by removing any screw fasteners, and pulling backward/forward in order to lift plate. Check underside for adjustment nibs, tabs or check cast table opening for any adjustment possibilitites.
Actually, your best bet is to make your own wooden or plex *zero clearance* plate. You must use a unique plate for different width blades (if you use various thickness blades)!
Overall, this will become an upgrade (less chips, accidents, etc)! Again, be certain that the plate top is *flush* with the tabletop!!!!!
Check out http://youtube.com, then, search for *table saw zero clearance*!
All of the Best,
Marena


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## eagle49 (Mar 22, 2011)

did anyone mention a new belt?


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## mofo83 (Oct 4, 2011)

Well, a little update:

I got underneath the saw, unscrewed the assembly, tapped it with a mallet, and remeasured the blade. I got it very, very close to being parallel... but not perfect. I tried adjusting again, but it wouldn't move any more.

But, I went ahead and tried to saw a few more boards (which turned out better, but not great) and I think I've figured out that the problem might have had a few different causes:

1. The non-parallel blade issue. (FYI, I just saw an old manual online, and it looks like there might actually be 6 bolts instead of 4 that hold the assembly to the table? So maybe I'll try again tomorrow to get it perfectly parallel.)
2. I noticed that after being cut, the wood is bending inward and pinching the backside of the blade (I don't have a "splitter"). I jammed a shim in the kerf after it cleared the blade and it helped a lot. 
3. The lever that locks the angle of the blade (didn't know there was one) was totally loose, so it could have been wobbling a bit, perhaps? 
4. I may not be using the right kind of blade? I have a 60-tooth DeWalt general purpose blade, and I'm mostly ripping 6/4 red oak. 
5. The steel insert is not perfectly flush with the table (I will try to make a zero-clearance insert...)

Thanks again, I'll let you know how it goes once I address all these issues.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*6 bolts is correct*

You should be able to get it spot on with a little more work. There is an angle lock and possibly a height lock. The angle lock is right under the top on the centerline of the table. Top lock location is not coming back to me, maybe there isn't one? 
The insert issue should be easy just lock it in a vise and twist it back into a flat plane with a large wooden Jorgensen clamp if it's warped. Don't over do the twist or it will go the other way. I think I used a glob of solder then filed it down to level mine out. 
There weren't any leveling screws back then. :no: 
You need to get or make a splitter. Jambing a wedge in the kerf takes your concentration off the process and could result in a mishap.
l
The 60 tooth is too fine for ripping. 
A 40 will work, but a Freud Diablo 24 tooth is the one to get.
It's thin kerf. There some great buys on Ebay on Delta blades.


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## mofo83 (Oct 4, 2011)

Thanks.

Looks like it should be pretty easy to make a simple splitter, if/when I make a zero clearance insert.

This seems the simplest route:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00066_sb1.asp

I'll have more time to work on all this Saturday...

Also, I do have a less-fine blade that came with the saw, that the owner said wasn't used much. I can try that out, and also look into getting one of those Freuds...


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## thanhlybanghe (May 13, 2017)

mofo83 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I checked the things you mentioned, and it really doesn't seem to be electrical. Also, the belt isn't slipping, and the pulleys are snugly in place.
> 
> ...


Looks like it should be pretty easy to make a simple splitter, if/when I make a zero clearance insert.

This seems the simplest route:
<a href="http://thanhlybanghe.net/"> Cửa hàng thanh lý 9D </a>


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## mangorockfish (Feb 27, 2017)

My throat insert has four allen head set screws to adjust it flush with table.


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