# Re Using Teak inside to outside:



## Phinicky (Jun 26, 2011)

I am seeking advise on how to convert my old solid teak furniture that is not being used, to an outside "Bar table top" . The existing Teak is all 3" x 3/4 " with various lengths . I would like to make the Bar table top 9" wide, and it will be outside on my front Deck rail as my House is at 1000' above sea level, so I have a beuatiful view of Vancouver from this deck, but the current rail is not wide enough to put down a mug of beer and snacks. 

So that is the goal, here are my specific questions: 

1) How do I dis assemble my old tables? I had several splined mitre joints at 45 degrees that I may just have to cut through, but I want to minimize my waste. Also, this was built in High School in 1980 so can I still expect to cut this old teak at all? 

2) Which would be the best joint / glue combination to use? 

3) Once completed, how should I finish it? It is Vancouver weather, Rain all year and some times snow at this altitude.


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## Oneuni (Sep 6, 2009)

*Teak reclaimed*



Phinicky said:


> how to convert my old solid teak furniture that is not being used, to an outside "Bar table top" . The existing Teak is all 3" x 3/4 " with various lengths .
> I would like to make the Bar table top 9" wide, and it will be outside on my front Deck rail
> 
> 1) How do I dis assemble my old tables? I had several splined mitre joints at 45 degrees that I may just have to cut through, but I want to minimize my waste. Also, this was built in High School in 1980 so can I still expect to cut this old teak at all?
> ...


Oiled(teak oil) and bee-wax is the best one, if you can get Tung Oil also good too.
Other alternative is by Mowilex Aqua Pollytur acrylic water base. Or ICI weather-shield paint.
by technical specification is that you need a paint material that having water-repellent character. If possible it is a waterproof one.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Can't comment on taking the existing table apart without seeing it but age doesn't change the lumber much. You can use a number of waterproof, not water resistant glues, resourcinol, epoxy, Titebond III. You should either use the glue on fresh milled edges, or wipe down with acetone, since teak emits an oil that won't let the glue adhere. You don't have to put any finish on teak, that's the beauty of it, extremely weather resistant. Or, you could use a teak oil.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It would help to post some pictures of what you have to work with. As suggested, fresh cut, or joinery done after the wood has been wiped with acetone. For glues, I prefer a two part epoxy. A good oil finish with 100% pure Tung Oil works good. Be wary of oils called "Teak Oil". Ones labeled as "Teak Oil Finish" may not be a pure oil, but an oil varnish mix. Or, no finish can be the way to go. The wood after time will take on a gray weathered look which can be rejuvenated by brush cleaning, or scrubbed with a synthetic microfiber pad.












 







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## Oneuni (Sep 6, 2009)

As for the Glue, epoxy is very hard massive one after drying, whilst the hardwood even *teak-furniture* or glass sheet are still can shrink and expand according to the moisture-content and water absorption. especially when the piece is not coated or sealed with waterproof paint. 
Again, for *solid hardwood-furniture*, use the glue that having a bit elasticity to adapt with moisture contents exchange that come along with the climate changes. those kind character of glue, you only can get it from PU or acrylic base blue.


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## Phinicky (Jun 26, 2011)

*Old Teak Photos*

Thanks you all for the advise. 
I think I will go with the epoxy, so name brands available in Canada would be appreciated. 
Also I will go with the oil finish. I don't mind the extra maintanance to keep the application on and exploit the natural water repelant. 
Here are the photos. 
Also now that I pull it out from storage, I see the groves cut for placing the glass. I may exploit that as well and use a Dato type joint.


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