# Chicago electric/Harbor Freight router problem



## esselgee (Oct 29, 2014)

I have a chicago electric (model M1R-JL) router and table that keeps allowing the bit (1/4" straight bit and 1/2" dovetail) to rise up and creep through the top of the piece i am routing. I am starting with the 1/4" straight bit to clear material for the dovetail. I started the straight bit an 1/8th" deep into the poplar and continued cutting into the material in 1/8" increments til i had gotten approx 7/16" +/- deep. That seemed to work as intended.

Then i switched to the 1/2" dovetail trying the same 1/8" incremental method. As i am sure you have already surmised the wide part of the dovetail bit cleared material as i went deeper into the wood so it was no longer a dovetail cut. So i after re cutting another straight bit groove i tried again to cut the dovetail in one pass, not incrementally. Got about 2" into the cut and the material stalled (for lack of a better phrase) and the dovetail started to creep up out of the collet and through the top of the material.

Any ideas what i am doing wrong? I have the right collet in the chuck and had it as tight as i could get it. I am trying to cut a sliding dovetail joint if anyone needs that info. Also when i tried to remove the bit from the chuck the shank of the bit was stuck in the collet. I had to beat it out with a screwdriver. That definately did not seem normal.


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## esselgee (Oct 29, 2014)

Ok, so part of the problem (i think) is that in order to get the full cut of whatever bit im using i am having to pull the 1/4" shank bits too far up out of the collet which is causing it not to be tight/vibrating loose/whatever. I turned the table over and tried to loosen the router and allow it to get closer to the table so when the bit is inserted properly and the unit is tightened i would then have the proper relief for a full cut. Long story short the router simply will not move any closer. Letting the bit settle all the way down into the collet and pulling it out an 1/8" just does not allow for full relief on the cut. I have read about extenders and from a rookie's perspective that seems like the solution. But most posts i read say they either would not use an extender for safety reasons or have never had the need in the first place. I thought about taking the motor completely off and using a dremel tool to rout out 3/16" or 1/4" where the footprint of the motor is and re-attach it which would then allow enough relief for full cuts. Does that idea have potential or is it the dumbest thing most of you have heard today....?


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## Kansas Gary (Nov 13, 2014)

As for it moving in the router is the bit bottomed out in the router? If so that will cause it to "creep" on you. Now if there is a "real" woodworking store close to you go get yourself a longer shank bit that will reach what you are trying to do. One more thing does your router let you use 1/2 shanks bits instead of the 1/4 style???? If it will trash the 1/4 and step up to the 1/2 size............Gary


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## esselgee (Oct 29, 2014)

I don't believe it was bottomed out as i was pulling the bit out of the chuck in order to obtain a full cut from the dovetail bit. My router takes 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" so i am going to look at woodcraft next time i am there. I wondered if going with a bigger shank would help any. I don't have a zillion dollars lying around so i can't afford to try something new, have it not work and still be at square one with the same problem.

I did manage to get the cuts made i was trying for when all this started. I just couldn't get the full 1/2" dovetail...but it is good enough. Hopefully the larger shank bits help in the future.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Is the router brand new? I bought three of their routers last year and all of them had oil on the collet and the 1/4" adapter. I had to rinse them off with lacquer thinner before I used them. 

When you use a router you should always put the router bit all the way into the collet and then pull it back out about 1/16" before tightening. 

If the collet is clean and you put the bits in like I described I would take the router back if it won't hold the bits.


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## esselgee (Oct 29, 2014)

No i got it last january. I don't see any oil on the collet anywhere but cleaned it tonight after you mentioned it. I had good luck using it today so.... I have some other things to rout tomorrow so guess we'll see how she goes. The more I think about it the more I think I just had the shank way to high in the collet trying to get the full 1/2" dovetail. Looked at some 1/2" shank bits also to prevent future issues.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

esselgee said:


> No i got it last january. I don't see any oil on the collet anywhere but cleaned it tonight after you mentioned it. I had good luck using it today so.... I have some other things to rout tomorrow so guess we'll see how she goes. The more I think about it the more I think I just had the shank way to high in the collet trying to get the full 1/2" dovetail. Looked at some 1/2" shank bits also to prevent future issues.


The 1/2" bits are always better anyway. 1/4" bits are easily bent and sometimes so slightly bent you don't really notice. When is one is bent it throws the router out of balance and can cause the bits to come loose.


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