# Help with a built in



## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

So i backed myself into a corner
i have this built in for a flat screen. All the boxes are built and attached to the wall and now it is time to attach some face frames. My plan is to use biscuits in the edges of the plywood and i dado-ed an appropriate groove in the back of the face frames to fit onto the biscuits. i am positve the glue and biscuits will hold it once it is attached but my dilemma is in how to clamp it properly while the glue sets. Typically with cabinets you would clamps to the back but being that it is all built and attached i cant do that. Any ideas? I dont want to use any nails in the face or have to put plugs in pocket screw holes.










I suppose this is one of those "he who fails to plan, plans to fail" moments


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

There are clamps that are designed to hold boards of this configuration. The look like a "U".

However, I would probably use an air gun shooting very small brads. These make such a small hole that a tiny amount of filler will fill the hole and not show.

Clamps you will probably have to buy. An air compressor you can probably rent.

G


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## Geoguy (Feb 22, 2008)

Here's another frame clamp from Woodcraft ( I think it's $18) but I would also recommend a brad nailer or pin nailer (pin nailer uses 23 gauge fasteners).


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you don't want to use a fastener, a clamp like this will work.


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

I have used both those clamps. The ones Cabinetman linked to work pretty well, but you would need a great many for your job. You will also need to cushion between the plywood and the opposing clamping screws or you will get dents in the plywood.The other clamps are primarily for butt joined face frame corners which pocket screws made obsolete for the most part in my opinion. They will work for that, but it will be a huge chore to get the u-shaped padded binding end of the clamp apart to remove them after the face frames are on.

Neither will work for your bottom rail down on the floor, and I would pull the unit off the wall. 

In the future, you might think about installing the faceframes before putting the backs on. It makes gluing the faceframes much, much easier and better since you can position clamps where they are needed. It is also easier on glue cleanup since you can see and get to the glue from the back.


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

Lots and Lots of masking tape. If you boxes are nice and flat, and square, you do not need much pressure. #1 reason joints fail is bad jointing not lack of pressure. Just line everything up, spread the glue well and use the tan 1" masking tape, not the blue stuff, the tan stuff will stretch. Let it dry overnight and you will be good to go it will never break. If you can not get an area to suck up a nail will hold that trouble spot. But you should not need it.


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

Well i think it turned out all right


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks for all your help and suggestions:thumbsup:


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## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

Just a note...it isnt completely done yet. I will post a pic when the drawer front, crown, base are in and it is loaded up with the customers crap.


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## beerdog (Mar 13, 2009)

What technique did you end up using?


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