# making router templates for my own designs



## Dvoigt (Dec 6, 2007)

I would like to do some inlays for some designs that I have been creating. If i have a drawing of what I want to inlay, what is the best way to create a template so I can use my inlay kit? 

I was just thinking that I need to take my design and then offset it 1/2 the thickness of my bushing... and then trace that offset onto a piece of MDF or something and then manually cut it out alone that line. 

Is that correct?

My design does have some shape corners, so I know that I won't be able to do all the recess with my router and I will need to go in with a chisels, I'm just looking to get the bulk of the design done via router


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## RussBoyd (Feb 28, 2009)

*template*

Your method seems right to me, but I haven't actually done it yet. As far as the distance to allow for the bushing, I would figure it out on some scrap. Should only take a couple of tries. Let me know what you come up with. Russ


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

try this - it may help??


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## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

No, it would not be 1/2 the thickness of your bushing... assuming you mean 1/2 the diameter.

That would be too much, as you would actually be offsetting from the very center of your bit, not the cutting edge.

As Russ said.... do nothing without testing for cut. But the measurement you are looking for is the distance from the cutting edge of your bit to the outside rim of the bearing (bushing).


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## Dvoigt (Dec 6, 2007)

I bought a Freud inlay kit that comes with the 1/8" bit. 

Can someone tell me the OD of the guide bushing? I can measure it when I get home but i'm hoping to work more of my design during lunch at work. I'm going to modify it more to try to get eliminate any chiseling.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Inlay bushiing kits are available from Rockler, HF and many others. All of the one's I've seen use 1/8" spiral bits.


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## artdunbar (Apr 19, 2007)

The easiest, and most accurate, method to route both sections of any inlay design is to purchase a router inlay kit. Cost is about $30 and is available at any woodworking retailer, such as Rockler or Woodcraft. The down spiral bit is only 1/8th inch, allowing fairly tight angles. The collar guide has an on / off ring the precisely adjusts the inside / outside cuts to compensate for the bits width. Recommend using a waste backer board under the work, eliminating most tear out at the bottom of the cut. A good kit comes with a centering guide that insures the bit is in the middle of the collar. Also, double-check that the bit is straight into the chuck's collet. Good luck, you'll feel so good when the insert slips in snuggle.


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## Dvoigt (Dec 6, 2007)

I did get the Freud inlay kit with the 1/8" bit, however it was a up bit, not a down bit... I thought you didn't want a up bit because it it can chip out. Should I call Frued and see what the deal is?


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## artdunbar (Apr 19, 2007)

Yes, please ask Freud why the use an up spiral and post the response? Perhaps up or down works best is certain situations, although my experience has been good with a down spiral.


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## Dvoigt (Dec 6, 2007)

This is the response I got from Freud:

"The problem with using a down cut with such a small bit is if cutting a blind cut like you do with inlays the chips load up and the bit breaks.

Jim"


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## artdunbar (Apr 19, 2007)

*Inlay Down Vs. Up Spiral Bits*

Below is my inquiry and response fro Marc Spagnuoloat the Woodwhisperer.com.

Art Dunbar says: 
March 28, 2009 at 8:56 am
Featuring inlays dovetails nicely with an inquiry I’ve been considering. Some inlay kits come with down spiral bits, some with up spiral bits. Freud’s kit comes with an up spiral. They state a down spiral can cause the 1/8th inch bit to break more often, getting hung-up in the saw dust. Do you have a comment?
Reply 









thewoodwhisperer says: 
March 28, 2009 at 9:33 am
Well, from a manufacturer’s standpoint, I can understand why they would want to sell up-spiral bits. Less broken bits means fewer replacements and tech service inquiries. And the results are usually “good enough”. But ultimately, the down-spiral bit gives the cleanest edge. And unless you are plowing through too much wood at once, you should never have a problem with broken bits. So if I were to make a choice, the down-spiral would be it.


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## dman (Sep 4, 2019)

You really do need an inlay kit for this. The amount of extra space you need is as follow:
Remove the collar on the inlay kit's router guide. Use a caliper to measure the distance from the outer edge of the guide to the far end of the 1/8" bit in the router.
Remember that this extra distance must be applied in 2 dimensions -- not just one! This is not trivial. I figured out a way to make this easy -- use a vector-based program -- I use Photoshop -- to do all the work for you! It makes it all SO easy!

I have a somewhat complete set of instructions for how to make a set of templates for complex patterns at 
http://dmasterman.com/wood/

Hope this helps


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## JacktheRipper (Feb 6, 2021)

Hey, new to the forum, and I got here by searching for info on how to make my own inlay rings for my existing guide bushing set. (I used my 3d printer to make the rings, and they work very well, incidentally).

What caught my attention was the discussion of up cut vs. down cut bits. I have found either works well for making the inlay because the inlay is experiencing a climb cut, assuming you traverse the guide template in the clockwise direction. However, if you traverse the guide in the clockwise direction when making the pocket, the pocket experiences a push cut, and tear out is worse with the up cut bit. So, for the final pass on making the pocket, I always traverse the guide in the counterclockwise direction, making that final cut of the pocket a climb cut. Both types of bits work well using this technique.

In fact, since I can easily print my own inlay rings, I actually print out a second "fat ring" by 1/32" or so in diameter, do a roughing cut with that ring using push cuts, then put on the nominal ring for the finishing cut in the climb cut direction.


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