# Diamond Edge Plane Resuscitation



## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

A few months back, I picked up a "Diamond Edge" brand plane that I have been slowly working at bringing back to life. Below are some photos. I started with a thorough cleaning and de-greasing (where needed). I removed the light surface rust from the components, primarily with a soft brass wire wheel. I sharpened the blade, which was in a pretty sad state. I also repainted the inside of the body and the back of the frog since the paint was largely gone. The handle is made of some kind of plastic/composite material and is cracked. Using scrap from my dog table project, I made a new handle from walnut and maple. I should mention that if you have the correct tools, this process should be a breeze. I glued three pieces of wood together (walnut - maple - walnut, grain parallel and parallel to the base of the plane) and traced a handle template that I had made. Since I don't have a drill press, I had cut a groove at 60 degrees into the maple section for the long machine screw that extends the length of the handle to pass through. I then drilled holes that roughly lined up with the concave curve at the front of the base of the handle and the top of the back of the handle. The rest was cut out with a coping saw. The sanding was done on my 4"/6" disc/belt sander, hand sanding, and a convex wood rasp. Needless to say, it was a PITA and reminded me of my need for some kind of dust collection. Once it was finally shaped and smoothed, I also sanded down the front knob. I considered trying to make a maple/walnut replacement for this to match, but that is outside of my skill set without having a lathe. Instead, I sanded the old one down and finished both in 3 coats of satin Minwax oil based poly. I need to work on the tuning some, but the blade is now sharp and it is ready to use.



















































































































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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Nice work on that handle. I really like the look of the lamination.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

i love laminated totes. I've made a few myself. Great work on the DE. Its good to see it back in service.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Nice to see a piece of old iron brought back to life.

I like the "racing" stripe handle.

I will be happy to make a racing stripe knob for you. Just send me a PM with the key dimension, including the hole diameter at the base and depth, etc.

I have plenty of walnut and maple scraps.

I have been thinking about replacing some of my handles. This is good inspiration.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Thanks all for your kind words and thanks Dave for the offer to turn a knob for the front. I've sent a PM with the dimensions of the existing knob.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

*Getting the blank round*

First set of pictures for Ben.

A little build. First prepare the pieces for gluing. The green sheet is a specially coated Aluminium foil I use to prevent the wood from sticking to anything.










The block after gluing. The darker areas is just the sponge used to clean off the excess glue.









The initial rough rounding of the bottom and tenon.










Now the blank is rounded. The round blank is bigger than final dimensions. I gave myself extra in case of hiccups for the initial rounding of the blank.









This piece of walnut scrap had wild grain since it was close to a branch. I think this will look good for the knob.

Thanks for looking.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Dave, that's going great! I can already tell that the grain on that "scrap" of walnut is fantastic! I am eagerly watching this one :thumbsup:


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

I see Dave has a better lathe than I do. I've got an old craftsman. When turning a knob, I drill a small pilot hole first, that way I always have my center. The first few I turned didn't come out with a perfect center, but then I've seen originals that were not perfect on center as well.










https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/05/04/a-new-604-jack/


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

You've got some great plane restores on your blog. I'll definitely be referring to this for future projects! I noticed that you tipped your totes at an angle on the boards so that you could easily use a drill press for the long hole through the handle. Are you concerned about the strength of the totes being effected by the grain being at a 30* (ish) degreen angle instead of parallel to the bottom of the plane? From the looking around that I did before I started, it looked like many preferred this, though I can't honestly say that 30* is going to make much/any difference, especially with the machine screw anchoring and compressing the wood together and in place. This may be one of those posts where I answered my own question :huh:.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

Ben, I always thought the angle would make the totes sttronger. Your not pushing directly with the grain. The other thing I do is adjust the tote angle to match the screw. If you've ever found a plane with a bent tote rod, that was done to allow for differences in the angle of the tap. I modify the angle instead.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

*Initial turning steps*

After roughing, the next steps.

Drilling 3/16in all the way through for the mounting screw.









Follow up with Forstner bit to drill 1/2in hole for the screw base.









Scribe landmarks and begin turning to required diameter. For a short piece I should not need tailstock support, but using just in case I get a catch.









Turned the bottom to final diameter. I included an extra 1/2in length for the tenon.









I removed from the chuck after this picture and intended to mount the tenon internally on my spigot jaws. Drat, drat and double drat, the specs said 1 5/8in internal. This was only 1 3/8in, but did not fit. I had to remount as above and turn down to the 1 5/16in diameter which did fit. 

Note to self, do not believe specs without physically checking. :bangin:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

*Final shape pictures*

Pictures of the final steps.

The shape is almost finished. Not yet sanded.









I am not applying a finish but wanted to show the grain so I wet the surface with denatured alcohol to get the grain to show.

First walnut side.









The other walnut side.









The maple stripe.









OK Ben, just awaiting you to approve and then I will part off. :smile:

I thought you would want to apply the same finish as the handle. If you want me to apply friction polish I can easily do so.

I have not drilled out the top hole for the screw countersink. I only have 45 deg countersink and I think you need 30 deg for the screw.

A nice practice project before I make some knobs for my old planes.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> After roughing, the next steps.
> 
> Drilling 3/16in all the way through for the mounting screw.
> 
> ...


Approve!

That's a great looking knob! I really like how that grain looks on the walnut. As for the countersink, the screw is a 45°. I can do that if you want. The diameter of the head is 7/16" at its widest point. That is a first class knob. It is going to make the rest of it look shabby. 

I certainly don't mind applying the finish so it matches exactly. It has been in the low 20's% relative humidity here. Will this cause any problems unfinished?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Ben, if the countersink is 45 deg, I am happy to do this. I keep a brace with a 45 deg countersink installed for such use.

I really like the control a brace provides for countersinking.

I am happy you approve. :smile:

This has been fun for me.

I have kept my scraps for a long time. I hate to burn or throw in the trash a piece which has nice grain, but is too small for present use.

Before I purchased the lathe, I had a number of "small" pieces which were not practical for "flat work".

Now that I have a lathe, I have a new frontier for potential use of small pieces. This is a good example.

I may have turned over 50% from the original block, but we still got to use some of the wood. It was too small for "flat work" use.

So all you need to do is send me a PM with your address and I will put this in the mail on Tuesday.

The last step to close out the thread will be to post the final pictures with the knob installed on the plane.

I will be happy if this knob helps you to enjoy your plane. :thumbsup:

The knob is so small, I would not expect any moisture content differences to impact the piece. Any potential movement differences will not be measureable.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

I've been advised by Dave that the new knob is now on the way from PA to WA. I'll be standing by at my mailbox... :thumbsup:


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Of course the new knob that Dave made for me arrived while I was out of town last week. As soon as I arrived home, though, I got to work! I had to drill out a small amount of material from the mounting hole. After that was taken care of, it was just 3 coats of the same oil based satin finish poly that I had used on the rear tote. Thanks again, Dave!

Below are a bunch of photos:

















































































































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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Ben, that is a nice looking plane, all dressed up and ready to go. I am happy to have played a small part. :thumbsup:

I love the innovative stand for the finishing. :icon_smile:

Thanks for the pictures. The tote and knob are a good compliment to the overall restoration.

Now time to go and make some nice fluffy shavings.

You did get me going. I have made a replacement tote for my Stanley #7. I am now working on a replacement knob. I recently purchased Stanley a #4 which was restored by someone who replaced the knob with one which is too large, so it does not fit into the ring. So this will also need a new knob.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> Ben, that is a nice looking plane, all dressed up and ready to go. I am happy to have played a small part. :thumbsup:
> 
> I love the innovative stand for the finishing. :icon_smile:
> 
> ...



Yup, she's all ready to make some shavings. I may have to make a run to my local wood dealer and get some materials for a new project later today. I hope you'll post images of the planes that you're working on.:yes:


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## Fishinbo (Jul 23, 2012)

You can be rightfully called as master restorer. Brand new look means brand new life.


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