# drawer locking router bit



## Jack142 (May 4, 2012)

I'm working on the plans for my kitchen drawers. I am using 1/2 inch stock ( wood not ply) for the box and then screwing in a drawer front.
I was thinking of finger joints, then someone mentioned using a router bit designed for drawers.
I been reading Rockler catalog on the bits. It sounds to me like I have to join 1/2 in sides to 3/4 inch fronts and backs ?
Not really what I want to do.
Am I right on this ?
Does anyone have any experience with a drawer locking router bit ?
Thanks Jack


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Jack142 said:


> I'm working on the plans for my kitchen drawers. I am using 1/2 inch stock ( wood not ply) for the box and then screwing in a drawer front.
> I was thinking of finger joints, then someone mentioned using a router bit designed for drawers.
> I been reading Rockler catalog on the bits. It sounds to me like I have to join 1/2 in sides to 3/4 inch fronts and backs ?
> Not really what I want to do.
> ...


No, you can join same thickness boards with the drawer lock bit. You don't really need that bit, it just mimics a locking rabbet which can be done with a slot cutter or a straight bit on the router table or just cut on the table saw. I figured that out after I bought one for my first set of drawers. If the drawers are overlaid and the fronts integral, it does make life a lot easier but for attached fronts it really isn't needed. :smile:


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## Jack142 (May 4, 2012)

*Locking rabbet joint*

Hi John,
Thanks for your reply, but now I have more questions ?
If I am using 1/2 in wood for sides, front and back.
I googled up a locking rabbet joint and it appears to me that I need 3/4 inch wood. 
At least, in all the examples I looked at they were 1/2 in to 3/4 in or just 3/4 inch, all using a 1/2 rabbet
It looks easy enough to do on my table saw. I have a dado blade setup. 
And I am not sure if I tried a 1/8 rabbet it would be strong enough.

The examples have the 3/4 inch board divided in 3 1/4 in cut out, and the 1/ in board fits into.

So, I got more questions then answers right now. All advice is welcome.


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## Jack142 (May 4, 2012)

*rabbet joint*

ok I saw one that works on 1/2 inch. its actually 2 cuts instead of 3. It works on 1/2 board 1/4 in rabbets. jeeze I feel stupid


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Jack142 said:


> ok I saw one that works on 1/2 inch. its actually 2 cuts instead of 3. It works on 1/2 board 1/4 in rabbets. jeeze I feel stupid


Hi Jack - not stupid, just unfamiliar with the things. I replaced my 15 kitchen drawers and built about a dozen shop drawers with 1/2" plywood (closer to 7/16" actually). I cut all the grooves 1/4" x1/4" and made the rabbets 1/4" x 3/16". Since I was using plywood, I wasn't concerned with seasonal expansion and attached the bottoms the same way. Talk about a solid drawer, especially the ones with dividers dadoed and glued in. 
I only used the drawer lock bit on the first 3 shop drawers I made, all the rest were done with slot cutters and straight bits.


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## Jack142 (May 4, 2012)

my table saw is going to be my workhorse in rebuilding the kitchen. Its old, real old, my dad built his house with it in 1950. 
Its solid 1/4 in steel not aluminum or cast. I been using it for almost 30 yrs now and it still cuts true.
I'm rebuilding drawers and doors, refacing the cabinet fronts, building 2 new cabinets to match.
Its a beadboard country look, painted off white, ( wife picked buttercream ? )
I want to make sure what I build looks good and is solid.
I'll try to attach a pic to show what its is going to look like.
I hope the pic attached


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## Jack142 (May 4, 2012)

oh wife decided I'm doing solid drawer fronts too much beadboard otherwise


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could do a simple drawer joint with just the table saw and a single blade. Just a simple rabbet to the drawer sides. Using ½" stock, make two cuts. The rabbet will be ¼"x ½". Groove the bottom of the sides and the front for the bottom. The back is cut short to slide the bottom in. The four drawer members are ½". Make a separate drawer front (to add) from ¾" material.









 





 
.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I'm late for this party, but you can use a locking joint on wood as thin as 1/4" all around. I've done it for drawers in jewelry boxes. You also can make them without a dado set or the special bit. All you need is a table saw with a good blade or a really steady hand with a hand saw.


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