# Help me choose a table saw ~$1000 or less



## snmhanson (May 23, 2011)

Hi,

First post here other than my introduction post. I'll jump right into it though. I am looking for a hybrid or cabinet table saw in the ~$1000 or less price range. In my research the models that stand out are the Grizzly G0715P, the General 50-200 (on sale at a local dealer) and the Jet JP-10. I also have looked at the Rigid R4512 for a cheaper alternative.

Here is where it gets just a little tricky. First, I don't have a dedicated shop at this time so I need to be able to move it from it's place in the garage to my work area (which will be either in the garage or the pad in front of the garage). I also would like it to be 110/220 volt compatible. I want to be able to easily replace one of the extension wings with a router table. Cast iron table, cabinet mounted trunnions, 1-3/4HP+ motor, good dust collection, easy to set up and tight tolerances, etc... would also be preferable as well, but I know that you can't always have your cake and eat it too. Basically, I want to buy a saw that will serve my immediate needs, but will also fit well into a dedicated shop which I hope to build in the next few years. As far as use, I will be using it for everything from cutting plywood to ripping 6/4 hardwood, maybe even thicker on occasion.

Any comments or thoughts on the above saws or any others that may fit my criteria well?

Thanks,

Matt


----------



## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

First, don't count out the used market. My buddy just got a $2k saw for $500 and it was barely used (I never ever get that lucky).

For new, I would say Grizzly with a nice mobile underneath (I think Griz has a good $ on those, too).
Lucky for us woodworkers (bad for the corporations), the competition keeps pricing tight. Check out the box stores (Depot, Lowes, Sears).

If they didn't have good products, they wouldn't last 6 months in this market. So look for saws that have been around at least for awhile. Find what you like and run it through this forum. Trust me, you'll get a lot of response when you mention *names* and *models*. 
If you're not prejudice over your saw... you're not a true woodworker!

Good luck.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Welcome Matt! (pun intended :laughing

To your list of candidates I'd add the Craftsman 22116 made by Steel City/Orion. It features the big yoke style cabinet mounted trunnions, riving knife, granite top, full enclosure, and a nice Biese style t-square fence. I would not pay regular retail for it, but have seen it drop into the low $700's on sale now and then, and below $900 pretty frequently. The Steel City 35930 is nearly the same saw, and the Steel City 35925 has the same guts but offers a lesser fence for less money. 

The Jet Proshop 708480 and 708482k are also nice hybrid saws, but don't offer a riving knife. Is that the JP-10 you mentioned? 

If you've got 220v available, I'd also consider taking the plunge and getting a 3hp industrial type cabinet saw like the Grizzly G1023RL or G0690. They'll both push your budget by 20% or so, but are all the saw you're ever likely to need. 

A good used saw is always a viable option if the right deal comes along. 

Regardless of which you choose, the saw is only as good as it's blade and it's alignment, so be fussy with both of those aspects. 

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress! :thumbsup:


----------



## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

I will agree with Knotscott on suggesting that if you can go with a little more budget and 220V power, spring for a 3HP cabinet saw on a mobile base. I personally like the Grizzly G0690...


----------



## snmhanson (May 23, 2011)

Thanks for the replies. I am keeping my eyes on the used market, but am also being very picky about what I would consider. I figure that if I am going to keep this saw for many years, I want to be sure to get exactly what I want. Still, if the perfect saw and/or a great deal comes along I would be a fool not to at least consider it.

Yes, knowscott, that is the Jet I am looking at. The price is decent on it, but it is also lighter than the other saws I am looking at - with the exception of the even less expensive Rigid (which I'm only thinking about as a low cost alternative). I also can't seem to find a ton of detail about the saw, such as are the trunnions cabinet or table mounted? Also, the more open leg design takes away from the design and is indicative of a lighter duty saw in my eyes. Factoring in the price, weight, power and versatility, it seems like the Grizzly may be the better buy, but I am not sure.

As far as the Craftsman, I have heard mixed reviews when it comes to granite tops. It does look like a nice saw through. I will look into it a bit more. Maybe if I can find it on a great sale...

Finally, I will look into the 3HP cabinet saws. At least on the Grizzly website, they really aren't THAT much more than the hybrid. I could wire up a 220v plug since our circuit boxes are right there in the garage (though they are both full). At the same time, a hybrid that can run on 110 and 220 could come in convenient at times. I don't think I need anything more than a nice hybrid, but having the extra capacity certainly can't hurt. 

I did like the General 20-200 on sale locally for $1200 that I took a look at last week. It's a bit more cost-wise but it also had a bit more power and seemed like a high quality saw. Anyone have any comments on that saw?

Thanks,

Matt


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The Jet has table mounted trunnions, but has a similar duty rating to other saws under 2hp that will run on 120v. 

Steel City might have a cast iron hybrid with cabinet mounted trunnions available, but I'm not sure. The former Cman 22124 (also made by Steel City/Orion) had cabinet mounted trunnions and a cast iron top, but most hybrids have table mounted trunnions. There is a Porter Cable PCB270TS that can claim cabinet mounted trunnions but they're not at all like the big yoke style system that we're used to seeing....much more like table mounted trunnions that bolt thru the front and rear strut of the cabinet, and still have the same small brackets similar to table mounted, and look to be equally difficult to reach. The saw has plastic elevation gears, and is generally a saw I don't recommend anyway.

There is a substantial jump in duty rating, mass, stability, power, and there's an increase in pleasure of use that's hard to quantify with a 3hp industrial type saw. The others will all cut wood, and will do a nice job, but if you've got 220v available and you up end spending $1200, none of the lighter duty saws really even compare to a 3hp industrial type saw. 

The pics below show the guts of a 3hp 220v cabinet saw, and a typical 120v hybrid.


----------



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

I bought a Jet JPS10 about a year ago. So far I've been pretty happy with it but like other hybrid saws it has shortcomings. The factory fence was fiddly to adjust and had a little too much deflection for me so I replaced it with an Incra TS LS. Big improvement! One of the reason's I bought it was because of the built in dust collection port on the back and enclosed cabinet. Even with those though I still get some sawdust coming out the bottom corners which aren't sealed. I tried putting some duct tape over them and I did get less dust on the floor but seemed to collect more dust inside the cabinet so the dust collection is marginally adequate at best. 
Yes, it can be run on 110 or 220 but there's no clear advantage to to 220 (doesn't increase your power or make it run any better) so I run it on 110. It does have enough power for most needs but I have been able to stall the blade at least once when ripping a really tough piece of red oak nearly 2 inches thick but I do use it for resawing stock too and haven't had any problems doing that. As for mobility, it's a heavy machine (I have cast iron wings and a router table extension replacing one of them) but it could be rolled around if placed on a mobile base. I like the stability of it without one though and don't need to move mine around.
Lastly, it has table mounted trunnions and I've had to readjust the blade several times. Nature of the beast I guess. Cabinet mounted trunnions may not need adjusting as often but I've never had a saw equipped with them so I don't know if that's true or not.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

For 1K you should be able to get a good used Unisaw, I saw one last wk. for $800 or best offer.It had a Biesemeyer fence. I think it was a 2004 model.

If you mention what area you are in, maybe someone has one for sale, or knows of one.

If I needed a cabinet saw, I would be checking a radius of 200 miles from my house on CL. For me an $800 Unisaw would be worth a 400 mile drive.


----------



## snmhanson (May 23, 2011)

Thanks again for the replies.

I looked for Unisaws in my general area and came up with a few, but not many. Most decent ones were in the $2000 range. There were a couple that were less expensive but they were either three phase or very old. BTW, by Unisaw, you are referring to Delta/Rockwell Unisaws, right? 

I also should mention that I have a thing about buying new, as you can be sure that there are no undisclosed issues and you also get the warranty. It takes a pretty good deal for me to give up that peace of mind and like clarionflyer, I never seem to get that lucky. Nevertheless, I'll keep my eyes open for used - until the time comes to just take the hit and buy new.

I am also being swayed by the full 3 HP cabinet saw argument and looking at options there. It's a tough decision though, as I am sure that one of the better hybrids would serve my needs just fine. Additionally, I would actually need to do a fair amount of rewiring if I need a 220 tap for the saw. And of course, there is the wife factor as well. I started out saying I needed a ~$500 saw such as the Rigid or Craftsman, and then bumped up to $900 or so for a hybrid, and now I am going to have to make the case to spend $1200 or more. I am sure I could pull it off, but there would be consequences. Since I am considering cabinet saws though, another saw to add to the mix is the Steel City 35905. Anyone know if that is a good saw and how it compares to the comparable General, Grizzly or Jet? The price is pretty good on it for a full cabinet saw, but in my experience, there is typically a trade-off of some sort when things are less expensive than competitors.

I am also rethinking whether I want to add the router extension to the table saw, or just have a separate router table. I recently read that it can be kind of a pain switching between router and table saw and most people end up regretting it. A decent router table doesn't look to be much more expensive than a router extension for a table saw, and a router table is something I actually wouldn't have too much of a problem buying used - or even making one myself. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks,

Matt


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Matt - The main advantage of putting the router table in a wing is to save space. My shop is pretty small so there's not a lot of choice in the matter. Nevertheless, I've really never regretted having one in my TS wing....it's just never seemed like much of a sacrifice, and easily offsets the space it saves. I've managed to get top and bottom side dust collection, and even have some storage from a built in cabinet. If you're not short for space, then there's really no compelling reason to do it.


----------



## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Matt, I can't add much to what Knotscott said... It really is an advantage having the router table in the extension wing if you are tight on space. But if you have room to burn, a separate router table could be nice...

I too have top and bottom dust collection, and a nice accessory fence that simply clamps to my rip fence. Since I don't make a cut, do some routing, then make the same sized cut... it really doesn't matter that I am using the rip fence in common... 

The only down side I can see to an extension wing router table is you are using typically a smaller table surface than a dedicated table. For what it's worth, I have a somewhat narrow table saw front to back, and I have yet to have any problems with my router table setup. I have molded profiles on 10' long stock with this rig no problem...


----------



## Chippin-in (Feb 4, 2010)

I have the Grizzly 690 and I really really like it. I have nothing to compare it to other than the little craftsman aluminum top saw I had. I spent more than I wanted to (well more than my wife thought I was going to), but I believe it was worth it. By the same token, dont chinch on $$ and get something your not gonna be happy with. If you have to, save a little more and get what you want. Theres nothing worse than admitting you messed up...to your wife.

Robert


----------



## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

I was just rereading some replies. If you can swing 240v, I wouldn't even consider a saw with less. I'm sure you'll be happier in the long run. Most of the medium size saws convert to both volts. 
Knottscott is always right on. I have a Craftsman (Steel City) and it has been flawless. (Don't think they sell mine anymore because it was too good and a value!). 
I've found HUGE opinions on saws merely from how they are set up! I ran a horrible Unisaw a few years back. Bad set up and a $6 blade... ? 
Good luck.


----------



## toollovingschultz (Jan 10, 2011)

snmhanson said:


> Hi,
> 
> First post here other than my introduction post. I'll jump right into it though. I am looking for a hybrid or cabinet table saw in the ~$1000 or less price range. In my research the models that stand out are the Grizzly G0715P, the General 50-200 (on sale at a local dealer) and the Jet JP-10. I also have looked at the Rigid R4512 for a cheaper alternative.
> 
> ...


 Matt If you don't have a shop full of tools yet don't waste your money on a table saw check out the ez one woodworking system from eurekazone. I have sold 2 table saws since I bought my eurekazone system and it has allowed me to turn my van into a portable woodworking shop. http://www.eurekazone.com/ check this system out watch the you tube videos.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

clarionflyer said:


> I was just rereading some replies. If you can swing 240v, I wouldn't even consider a saw with less. I'm sure you'll be happier in the long run. Most of the medium size saws convert to both volts.
> Knottscott is always right on. I have a Craftsman (Steel City) and it has been flawless. (Don't think they sell mine anymore because it was too good and a value!).
> I've found HUGE opinions on saws merely from how they are set up! I ran a horrible Unisaw a few years back. Bad set up and a $6 blade... ?
> Good luck.


If you want to run on 110 volts, I would recommend an older Unisaw, with a 1 or 1.5 h (110 volt) "Bullet" motor.
I have a 1hp model, and it runs smoother than the newer saws. It also has much more torque, and is said to equal a 2+ hp modern motor.
You can research them. People who have them love them. Of course they have to be set up, as any saws has to be.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Matt, there's a time and place for those guided saw systems and lots of people really like them in some situations, but there's no way I'd agree that a good TS is a waste of money or that a guided saw is a substitute for one.


----------



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

knotscott said:


> Matt, there's a time and place for those guided saw systems and lots of people really like them in some situations, but there's no way I'd agree that a good TS is a waste of money or that a guided saw is a substitute for one.


 
+1 on that! I simply don't see how you could build a quality piece of furniture or cabinetry with one of those systems.


----------



## snmhanson (May 23, 2011)

I agree with you knotscott and xphnmn. I actually have a guided system that I bought a while ago. It wasn't too expensive and I didn't have anywhere for a table saw so I thought it would be a good alternative and maybe just a little more difficult to work with. While it is handy for a limited number of cuts where I don't have time to run up to my father-in-laws house to use his table saw, or for cuts that are too large for the table saw such as the middle of a sheet of plywood, it can't hold a candle to the precision and ease of use that a table saw offers IMO. Particularly when I need to cut several pieces the exact same width, a table saw is definitely the way to go. I'm not saying toolloving schultz is wrong and I appreciate his advice. The guided systems may work great for some people, but I am just not one of them.

Back to table saws, I am still undecided between a hybrid and a cabinet saw. Aside from the electrical requirements, one other concern I have is how easy it is to move a cabinet saw compared to a hybrid - assuming both are on a proper caster system. Hybrids seem to come in around 300-350 lbs or so while cabinets seem to run 500lbs or more. I may be working out of the garage for a few years before I can build a dedicated shop I will be moving it around the garage. I also might use the saw out of the apron in front of the garage which has a slight slope in it, so ease of moving the saw is something I needs to consider.

Matt




knotscott said:


> Matt, there's a time and place for those guided saw systems and lots of people really like them in some situations, but there's no way I'd agree that a good TS is a waste of money or that a guided saw is a substitute for one.


----------



## toollovingschultz (Jan 10, 2011)

knotscott said:


> Matt, there's a time and place for those guided saw systems and lots of people really like them in some situations, but there's no way I'd agree that a good TS is a waste of money or that a guided saw is a substitute for one.


 Knotscott 2 years ago I would agree with you. the complete ez system is not just a track saw that is what what changed my mind.It took a full 2 years for me to retrain my mind but now the system is making me money every day. I sold 2 table saws and am selling my third one to my brother.
Andy


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

toollovingschultz said:


> ...It took a full 2 years for me to retrain my mind... Andy


Oh Lord, that's 4% of my life! I love having a TS....it only took a full two passes to get the hang of it, but admittedly I haven't made a dime with it yet. :laughing:


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I have a Festool TS75 and lots of tracks...*

I've had it for about 3 months, and have yet to use it to do anything. I also have a few table saws....someone them are bolted together. There is no way in he** I would get rid of them, or replace them with a Festool as the only saw. If it took 2 years to "retrain your mind" that's 2 years longer than it would take on a table saw and you could be "making money" for the last 2 years. I got my first powered saw, a 8 1/4" Skil in 1956 and my first table saw, a 10 Craftsman in 1960.....a few years of sawing experience here. 
I can't image making a tenon on a "guided saw" or a few other cuts, dados? on a guided saw. The best use for them in my opinion and that's all I can give here is for "on site" breakdown of sheet goods. By the time you cart the 118" track around and a few other tracks and the folding table, I'd just as soon take my Bosch 4000 and the Bosch sliding miter saw. 
I can only relate to the Festool, not the eurekazone tools. Their site and videos were hard acquire any good information from.
I don't believe THIS thread is a place to debate this issue although I'm guilty of that myself somewhat. 
I am very happy with a 22124 Craftsman/Orion 10" 1 3/4 HP Hybrid saw
Cast iron tables and actual Biesemeyer fence unfortunately discontinued by Craftsman. 
 bill


----------



## toollovingschultz (Jan 10, 2011)

Hey guys it was 2 years before i retrained enough to no longer need my table saw to work as efficiently or I felt comfortable without it on the job. I _am not a newbie to woodworking I have been a professional carpenter for 25 years. Currently I specialize in custom interior and exterior trim and cabinet installation. If I had only a small shop to work in, the ez system offers a lot more bang for your buck. Most of the other track saw systems are just that a track saw. If you haven't used the system then it is difficult to fully give a opinion on whether it can do the job of a table saw. the retraining was 23 plus years of using a table saw and making that my first choice by habit._
_ What I really mean to say is that you really shouldn't judge a product if you haven't used it. The ez system is a american made product that supports american jobs. It is not good to bury our heads in the sand and ignore new ways if we haven't tried them. If we did that we would still be riding horse and buggies and using hand saws._


----------



## snmhanson (May 23, 2011)

I am going to dig this post up as I am still undecided about what to get and driving myself crazy. First off, thanks for the responses - they have been very helpful as far as opening my eyes to different options. I basically have my decision narrowed down to either the Grizzly G1023RLW (with router insert), or the Rigid R4512. I know, two totally different saws. Here is where I am coming from.

The Grizzly would be all the saw I'll ever need and I'd be done with it. It also has the built-in router table which saves me ~$300-400 and the time of building one (although that would also be a fun "chore"). However, I would have to deal with adding a 220v circuit to an already cramped electrical panel. And I would need to purchase a mobile base as well - and figure out how to integrate that with the additional support legs for the router extension. Of course, Grizzly has a great name associated with it, and with the exception of a few of the comments I've heard about the G7015, seems to put out a well calibrated and in-tolerance product. Plus, I would get the quality of cabinet-mounted trunnions and a full cast iron table, as well as the additional power that the G1023 offers.

On the other hand, at less than 1/2 the price (including a mobile base) and simple 120 volt electrical requirements, The Ridgid would be the easier decision and may be all the saw I really need right now. Although I have the funds and am sure I could get the spousal approval for the Grizzly, a table saw isn't the only thing on my wishlist and being able to put $800 towards something else would be nice. If I go with the Ridgid, I would ultimately plan on upgrading a few years down the road once I build a shop - unless I find the Ridgid perfectly adequate. I have read quite a few comments about the perceived short-comings of the Ridgid but the few user reviews of the Ridgid that I have been able to find seem to be pretty favorable.

So, here's the thing. Although I certainly do my fair share of woodworking, I don't think I am quite as dedicated of a woodworker as most of the others on this board. I am a DIY kind of guy and prefer to build things such as file cabinets, speaker boxes, entertainment centers, poker table, etc... myself rather than buy them due to the superior results I can typically attain and the cost savings. I do have a big list of things to build, but at the same time, I don't typically go out and build things just for the joy of working with wood - though I like to be proud of what I build. If the Ridgid will get me by and not constantly frustrate me, I think that would likely be my choice. However, I just don't want to be telling myself, "I wish I would have just bought the Grizzly" everytime I use the Ridgid.

I keep going back and forth. Sometimes I am convinced and determined that I should buy the Grizzly, and then the next day I think that the Grizzly is overkill and that the Ridgid will be plenty of saw for me and be the responsible choice. I think I just need someone just tell me what to do! Anyone got anything else to ad?

Thanks,

Matt


----------



## mwhals (Apr 13, 2010)

If you think you will be wishing you bought the Grizzly, you answered your own question. If you think you will upgrade the Rigid saw in the future, you also answered your own question.

My advice is get the Grizzly and don't look back. It will be less expensive than buying the lesser saw today and upgrading in the future. You will have no regrets getting the better saw, but will have doubt and regrets if you go with the lesser saw.

That is my two cents and my humble opinion.

As to the cramped circuit panel, add a sub panel like myself. Much cleaner and easier.


----------



## snmhanson (May 23, 2011)

Thanks mwhals. I agree that I don't want to regret not buying the better saw - but I also don't want to regret spending 3 times what I really might need to spend. I guess part of my question is whether I would regret, or be happy with the Ridgid - keeping in mind I am coming from no table saw at all, other than using my father-in-laws old contractor Craftsman. I am just not sure that my requirements are as high as some of the other board members. Sure, if money were no object I would buy the Grizzly (or a Powermatic, or a SawStop). But there is an opportunity cost to getting the more expensive table saw and I just want to make sure I am being smart. The Grizzly would certainly be more powerful and effortless, but is it going to give me that much better results, consistency and solid performance over the Ridgid?

Thanks again for the advice, and I will certainly take it into consideration. And I promise to make a decision soon and put an end to this thread...

Matt


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's a little free advice...*

You said:
_
So, here's the thing. Although I certainly do my fair share of woodworking, I don't think I am quite as dedicated of a woodworker as most of the others on this board. I am a DIY kind of guy and prefer to build things such as file cabinets, speaker boxes, entertainment centers, poker table, etc... myself rather than buy them due to the superior results I can typically attain and the cost savings.* I do have a big list of things to build, *but at the same time, I don't typically go out and build things just for the joy of working with wood - though I like to be proud of what I build. If the Ridgid will get me by and not constantly frustrate me, I think that would likely be my choice. However, I just don't want to be telling myself, "I wish I would have just bought the Grizzly" everytime I use the Ridgid.
_
If you think about this over a time period of say 15 - 20 years, the life of a saw, and amortize the cost over that period, the additional cost of the Grizzly will be negligible. Even $500.00 over 5 years is only $100.00 per year. There is something satisfying about the heft and feel of a quality tool when you are using it, when you hear it run and when the work comes out as precisely as you planned it and cut it. I have older Craftsman saws, a Bosch job site saw, a new Craftsman Hybrid saw and a big 5 HP 12" Powermatic. They are all really great tools in their own realm.
A Biesemeyer fence makes a great difference in repeatability of parallel rips. Even if you start out as a DIY guy, you will not regret a quality saw when and if you evolve into higher quailty projects. In fact a really good saw will inspire you to higher standards. This is not to say that quailty work can't be done on lesser tools, but really good work requires a passion not all of us possess.  bill


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Come on guys/gals. Someone with a nice Unisaw,, should sell it to this guy, for a fair price, and buy that Saw Stop, you've been wanting to buy.
A win win deal!

To the orig. poster. Have you called or emailed any used machinery places?


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I've never regretted buying the "upgrade" the first time around, but have definitely regretted settling for less tool. My cabinet saw was my 4th new saw. It's definitely easier and cheaper to buy the cabinet saw now as opposed to in a few years. My 2nd and 3rd saws were plenty capable for hobby work (GI 50-185, Cman 22124), but there's really no comparison when you fire up a 3hp cabinet saw and cut with it.


----------



## snmhanson (May 23, 2011)

OK, OK, you all have me convinced that I should go for the G1023. Not sure exactly what my timeline is, but hopefully by the end of June. It's never a done deal until it's sitting in my garage though - and I'm still going to keep an eye on CL for that once in a lifetime deal until I make the purchase. Think I'll opt for the version without the router insert actually. It's a bit less expensive ($107 once shipping and sales tax is factored in) and it seems like it would be easier to move around and deal with. It will give me a great first project of building a router table, plus I could always add it later or build me own extension if I decide I really want it later. Living in Washington and buying from a Washington-based company sucks to the tune of an extra 7% tax. On smaller items I don't worry about it too much, but on larger items is can add quite a bit to the cost. Wonder if Grizzly ever gives breaks to Washington residents. It sure would be nice to have the subsidize the sales tax - though I know they still need to make their profit.

Thanks again for all of the replies and advice.

Matt


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Good choice on the routertable-less saw*

Here's my reason if you do want to marry a router table onto the saw get one that allows for a rectangular plate for a lift. Other wise you will want a router that's height adjustable from the base/upside down. There are a few Triton. Milwaukee, Freud, others. Another thing you don want to use the table saw fence for both the router and table saw. It requires changing the set up on the router just to rip another piece.....PITA. Use separate fences.
A router lift that locks on height is a joy to use Jessem Mast R Lift II, I think...anyway the newest one. I have both and the height does change as you are routing believe it or not :wallbash:...DAMHIK Good choice on the Grizzly. You'll be impressed with the quality. I have a few Grizz's in the shop.  bill


----------



## snmhanson (May 23, 2011)

So I called Grizzly just to check the stock of the 1023 and they are back ordered until the end of July . They do have the G0690 on sale right now, but that would be over $1400 and probably out of my price range. I was hoping to get something in the next few weeks, but even the the G1023RL at $1200 was pushing it. Here's the other thing. I was looking at CL today and saw a Ridgid 3650 that seemed to be in good shape for $150. I am considering going with that for the time being. Then, when the 1023 becomes available and I am ready to buy one, I am sure I could sell the Ridgid for very near what I paid for it. Make sense? The 3650 was a decent saw for what it is, right? I just want something that will be reasonably accurate and usable so that I can get going on a few projects that I have lined up.

Matt


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

$150 for a 3650 in good shape is a good deal, so it'd have little to no depreciation. It's no cabinet saw but is a good saw...if it's in really nice shape, you might be able to make another $50-$100 toward your dream saw. If you put a good blade on it and align it well, it should do a good job for you.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

toollovingschultz said:


> Matt If you don't have a shop full of tools yet don't waste your money on a table saw check out the ez one woodworking system from eurekazone. I have sold 2 table saws since I bought my eurekazone system and it has allowed me to turn my van into a portable woodworking shop. http://www.eurekazone.com/ check this system out watch the you tube videos.



I just ripped a 3/4 " x 3/4" x 6" piece of wood, into 1/8" strips.
How do you go about this with a Eurekazone, or other track guided saw?


----------



## toollovingschultz (Jan 10, 2011)

Pirate said:


> I just ripped a 3/4 " x 3/4" x 6" piece of wood, into 1/8" strips.
> How do you go about this with a Eurekazone, or other track guided saw?


Pirate I can cut those all day long with my powerbench from eurekazone and never get my fingers anywhere near a spinning blade. Look at the you tube videos of Dino cutting small pieces on his power bench. all I have to do is set the fence and cut. That is the beauty of the power bench small repeatable cuts and no safety compromise.
Andy


----------

