# warped table saw blade..



## andrewscevich (Dec 17, 2011)

so both my table saws blades developed some wobble - resawing 6" baseboards - .. the blades weren't very expensive ($40ish each), so it's not a total travesty, but is it possible to correct the wobble in the blades, or are they both garbage?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

What blades are they?


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## andrewscevich (Dec 17, 2011)

one is dewalt general purpose, the other is a freud ripping blade


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

Check all aspects first dust between spacer. Cross threaded nut etc. if it is the blade itself Absolutely get rid of it this is EXTREMELY Dangerous and nothing to experiment with

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Make sure blade nut is tight. Like masterhand said check for sawdust built in between. Happened to me, cleaned it and worked good. Also take the blade off and set it flat on a true flat surface to check if it's bent.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I probably wouldn't bother fixing them...especially if they were thin kerf blades. Both can be replaced fairly cheaply with new sharp blades.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I warped a nice Bosch 10" 40 tooth*



andrewscevich said:


> so both my table saws blades developed some wobble - resawing 6" baseboards - .. the blades weren't very expensive ($40ish each), so it's not a total travesty, but is it possible to correct the wobble in the blades, or are they both garbage?


I was ripping some 2X stock and it got hot, stalled out a few times and then wouldn't cut worth a hoot. It was warped and I could tell by holding a steel straight edge across the blade. :furious: bill

By having the blade at full height, the chips get carried out and downward more efficiently and the blade will stay cooler.


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## AlWood (Apr 18, 2010)

andrewscevich said:


> so both my table saws blades developed some wobble - resawing 6" baseboards - .. the blades weren't very expensive ($40ish each), so it's not a total travesty, but is it possible to correct the wobble in the blades, or are they both garbage?


Andrew, "deep" re-sawing on TS is tough on a blade, especially if you rise your blade to the max (close to 3") while the entire blade is inside the board; the main thing is an accumulated heat and instability in vertical position of the board. A major rule -- go slow; don't go by big increments; feel what is happening; stop if you feel you have to push too hard. Also provide high, strictly vertical, and strong support for the board on the side opposite to the fence, essentially making a well defined "channel" for the board. As the folks suggested, you can check out whether you've really got a warped blade. If you've got it, I doubt whether this can be reliably fixed -- at least in my experience -- but perhaps somebody can offer better advice.
Good luck.


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## andrewscevich (Dec 17, 2011)

thanks for the input... i was thinking the blades were toast... the thing is, i had about 600 lf of 6" baseboard to plane down, plus casings and window jambs. And it was taking too long with the planer, so i decided to cut the majority off with the ts, then plane it down. And yes, i was cutting about 3" per pass, and going slow. For the most part, it worked pretty good. I had the splitter on my ts, and fresh blades (1 just sharpened, the other brand new). However, a couple of the pieces bound so hard on the blade that even with the splitter in place, it still managed to stall out the motor. A couple of these pieces caused the blade to get real hot, and warp. I guess the blades are toast, not a big deal, i was just wondering if they could be saved. I would have cut them down with a bandsaw if i had one, and since it was taking too long (only an old dewalt planer, can't take much off each pass) i had to thin them down somehow... how else could i make boards thinner?


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## AlWood (Apr 18, 2010)

andrewscevich said:


> thanks for the input... i was thinking the blades were toast... the thing is, i had about 600 lf of 6" baseboard to plane down, plus casings and window jambs. And it was taking too long with the planer, so i decided to cut the majority off with the ts, then plane it down. And yes, i was cutting about 3" per pass, and going slow. For the most part, it worked pretty good. I had the splitter on my ts, and fresh blades (1 just sharpened, the other brand new). However, a couple of the pieces bound so hard on the blade that even with the splitter in place, it still managed to stall out the motor. A couple of these pieces caused the blade to get real hot, and warp. I guess the blades are toast, not a big deal, i was just wondering if they could be saved. I would have cut them down with a bandsaw if i had one, and since it was taking too long (only an old dewalt planer, can't take much off each pass) i had to thin them down somehow... how else could i make boards thinner?


Andy, you can do re-sawing on TS, all right, but what you said, 3" per pass, is completely unsafe and out of good practice :thumbdown:. I personally, prefer TS re-sawing to using band-saw -- you get it quite clean without need for jointing -- but I go usually no more then 1/2" -- 3/4" at most!!! -- per pass. Of course, it takes time, but not too much (you do all of your boards on 3/4", then rise the blade, and do all of them again, etc.). (Besides, don't go to the very end! leave a little uncut bridge, say 1/2" thick, and then cut it through by a say hand-saw; otherwise, your blade will get stuck in the worst sitaution... After re-sawing, use your hand-plane to remove remnants of the bridge) . Compare this to having trouble with the blades, being frustrated, then crying on the forum:yes:, and so on... Good luck next time! And let us know about your updated experience...:thumbsup:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Andrew - If you want to replace those blades with something decent but affordable, there are still a few German made Onsrud industrial grade blades on Ebay being blown out dirt cheap.


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## andrewscevich (Dec 17, 2011)

i appreciate the input... next time i will try taking off less per pass... the thing is, is that it did in fact work, and work quite well. It went quite quickly, and i got the result i was looking for. i was just curious if my blades were toast. next time, however, i will NOT try taking 3" per pass.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

andrewscevich said:


> so both my table saws blades developed some wobble - resawing 6" baseboards - .. the blades weren't very expensive ($40ish each), so it's not a total travesty, but is it possible to correct the wobble in the blades, or are they both garbage?


If it is actually the blades causing the wobble they are garbage. Lay the blades on the top of you saw table and ensure that they are perfectly flat.

George


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

andrewscevich said:


> i appreciate the input... next time i will try taking off less per pass... the thing is, is that it did in fact work, and work quite well. It went quite quickly, and i got the result i was looking for. i was just curious if my blades were toast. next time, however, i will NOT try taking 3" per pass.


Were the blades 3/32" thin kerf by any chance as opposed to 1/8" full kerf? Even though they're easier on your saw's motor, the TK's are more prone to flexing under pressure and don't handle the heat from the friction as well. It's likely that those blades have lost their tensioning.


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

I missed if you tried a different blade and it ran true?
The flat surface test is a good start but the blades may be different when hot.


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## andrewscevich (Dec 17, 2011)

*Master'sHand was right*

So.. i did some checking into the saw, and the spacer washer (inside one) is worn down, and worn on an angle a lil bit. So now all my saw blades sit a little askew (figured this when brand new saw blade was also "warped").... anyways... new part is like $12, so i'm all good to go. Thanks for the advice!!!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

When you finished resawing did you shut the saw off immediately? I've had better luck leaving the saw running until the blade cools. I've even corrected a warped blade by resawing oak or something hard to where I get the blade really hot and then letting it spin itself true by leaving it running. Of course it never goes back perfect but the blades are usable.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

andrewscevich said:


> the spacer washer (inside one) is worn down, and worn on an angle a lil bit.


I'd be curious about how that happened.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*hmmmm?*



Cliff said:


> I'd be curious about how that happened.


too many bevel cuts? :blink: Took the washer off the wobble dado set?  Bad lathe operator? :boat: bill


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## AlWood (Apr 18, 2010)

Cliff said:


> I'd be curious about how that happened.


Celebrated a Valentine day too avidly...:laughing:


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## andrewscevich (Dec 17, 2011)

well... some of the pieces were quite cupped, which i removed on the jointer, but the wood itself was still under tension, so when i cut into it (3" deep) the wood clamped down on the blade... HARD... and even though the splitter was in place, still managed to pop the breaker (20 amp). A couple of times instead of blowing the breaker, the blade came loose, and the arbor was freewheeling. I never thought anything of this, and just tightened the nut a little and was good to go. I guess what actually happened was that the blade was clamped so tight by the board and the motor wanted to spin soooo badly, that it was stronger than the soft metal of the spacer washer, and that wore down. do this a couple of times, and it's not hard to imagine a less than perfectly flat surface. And that's where my wobble came from. I put my blades on a flat surface, and they appeared perfectly flat, not even a little deviation, but i was getting quite a lot of wobble, and that's how i came across my worn out washer.


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