# help with adirondack chairs?



## Brian2828 (Dec 22, 2007)

I'm new to woodworking but have built a pair of adirondack chairs based on the plans at

http://pages.areaguides.com/ubuild/AdirondackChairs.htm

To keep costs down I used inexpensive pine (mostly 1X4, 1X6) from home depot (actual dimensions are .75 X 3.5). The chairs seem pretty sturdy and adults have frequently sat on the arms. I don't know that I would really need to go with thicker wood just for strength. Being a newb I used a stain that is not appropriate for outdoor furniture. I then used a Thompson's water seal spray.

For my next chairs, I'm not sure if I should bother changing the wood. It seems pretty sturdy (chairs have lasted a year, including through a Northeast winter-outside under a deck).

Overall, I'm pleased with my first attempt but would like to make a number of improvements in my next design. The chairs are fairly comfortable but they really need a rounded back and slightly bucketed seat. I picked up a router and will use a roundover bit to make the next chair a little less rough looking.

I'm leaning towards taking one chair apart and using the components to make templates so that I can make multiple identical chairs. I'd appreciate any suggestions on the following planned modifications.

1. Given what I've said about sturdiness, would it really make that much of a difference to switch to cedar or another wood? My templates wouldn't work. I didn't realize that 1X4 isn't really 1X4. If cedar is really the way to go, what is the thinnest I can get away with (trying to keep down some weight and bulkiness).

2. If I don't go with cedar. What is the best way to weatherproof the wood? Would spraying with Thompson's waterseal before staining be enough?

3. The biggest difficulty I've had is determining the correct angle for the back. My next chair, having a rounded back, would have to attach differently. Any thoughts?

4. I would also like the back to be easily detachable for storage. Any thoughts on making this easy?

Thanks!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I wouldn't go any thinner than 3/4" (actual) on whatever the application of specie you choose. Other than Cedar, you could use Cypress, White Oak, Redwood, or even SYP (Southern Yellow Pine), which would be a lot better than regular pine. I'm not a fan of Thompson's Water Seal, but it's better than nothing if applied regularly.

I would use BLO (boiled linseed oil) regularly, as IMO, it would provide more weather protection than TWS. Using a spar varnish would require extensive maintenance which would include sanding and several applications of finish.

You might be able to construct the back section to be applied with bolts and wing nuts, which would permit disassembly and storage. You would probably have to redesign the frame of the chair to enable the back to be removed.


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