# New Router Table



## Lucas54 (Aug 21, 2008)

Right now I have a little bench top cheapo table that has gotten me by for a while. I've been looking around at different designs and plans, as well as checking out some of the store bought tables.
What I've come to realize is that I don't need a real fancy cabinet style router station (although they are indeed nice). But I do need something that can stand alone.
What I've come up with is a very very basic router table, and I wanted to run it by someone before I put it all together.

I'm including a picture of my workbench that I built a while back (nothing fancy, just a sturdy workhorse). What I'm thinking is a smaller version with an MDF top. I would then cut out the hole and rout a 1/4" lip around the hole. Then attach the router to a 1/4" piece of plastic sheeting and drop it onto the lip. From there I can cut out slots for a fence and miter gauge. My question is, does this sound reasonable or am I being to optimistic? In theory it will work wonderfully, but I've had to many experiences with "theories" to trust it to much lol. Also, any suggestions on how to improve it are always welcomed. I'm trying to stick to a budget, but I may be able to squeeze out a few extra $$ for something good.

p.s. please don't mind the fact that it appears I had 3-4 different projects going on at once in this picture. :no:


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

Lucas - I agree on the router table. I love the looks of the fancy ones but because of cost and me destroying anything that looks nice I came up with a small table, mostly made of 2X4's and mdf. Works very well for me and low cost. Just an idea? Your idea sounds okay, but just make sure that the router base will not sag, that would ruin the project.
my other router table


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would say that you have pretty much made a table that will do everything required. And you have done it with a minimum of expense. I like it. 


g


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## red (Sep 30, 2008)

LarrySch, That is a great router table. It looks great and I'm sure very affordable. Red


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Larry, that`s a real nice router table. I`ve been wanting to build a four sided router station. I saw one in Fine Woodworking mag. along time ago. I believe it was set-up for cabinet doors. I can see how a four sided set-up could save alot of time...and also be set-up for dust collection. I`m going to have to get on that!! Rick


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## Lucas54 (Aug 21, 2008)

Wow, that looks almost identical to what I have sketched up in the garage lol. 
I have a piece of 1/4" plastic sheeting. I'm fairly certain it will be plenty strong to hold the router up, but I've been wrong before.


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## Lucas54 (Aug 21, 2008)

Also, how did you make your fence? That is what I have in my head, but I can't quite get it right.


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## jdixon (Nov 21, 2007)

Lucas, I like the look of your table. Looks good and sturdy. I have nothing to add re: the router table I just wanted to say I feel your pain as I noticed the Wrigley Field picture hanging on the wall.

John


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

You are pretty much on track. Save yourself the hassle of fabbing up the mounting plate, and pick one of the Harbor Freight #94331 router table plates. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331

This gives you the little "throat plates" that will allow you to use a wider variety of bits without either mashing the bit into the plate, or dropping stock into the hole...

Due to the abundance of discarded 2x4s around locally due to Ike, I have picked up several fairly clean, straight 2x4 studs (nails at the ends, easily removed), and will likely clean them up on the planer to reduce them to 1" and start working a similar router station, redo the current one I have. Probably slot a pocket for a 1/4" plywood filler between the 2x4 rails etc...


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## Lucas54 (Aug 21, 2008)

I had the day off so I went ahead and put the table together, I do want to get a pre-made mounting plate, but I'm out of $$ for the time being so I went ahead and cut one myself. I'll be upgrading this as soon as I have a few extra bucks. I'll also be adding a couple of cabinets and I'll be making a fence probably next week when I get another day off. Then I'll add some casters. Thanks for the replies, and I'm still looking for suggestions on ways to improve it. :icon_smile:


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

Lucas - your right - the basic build is pretty much the same. I will take a few photo's of the fence, it is nothing special but make help you with you ideas. The way you made it - you can enclose it at any time.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

You are going to need a router table power switch. I don't like most of them on the market, because they "Front Load" the power cable from the router instead of rear. The Craftsman power switch loads from the rear, meaning you can route your power cable more cleanly.

If you can find, perhaps on craigslist, an old Wolfcratft router table that is being torn apart, most likely due to the MDF top getting swollen by humidity, you can swipe the power switch off of one of those. The 6157 Router Table 470 previously sold by Home Depot had a particularly good switch. I am going to re-use mine when I build my next router table...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00925188000P?vName=Tools&cName=PowerToolAccessories&sName=Router%20Tables%20&%20Attachments&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

Of course you know you are going to want a miter track at the front, and T-tracks to guide the fence, I think Peachtree has some decent track at a reasonable rate. But you might check Rockler. I think they are clearancing off some of their T-tracks..

Larry, Can you please post up some pics of the way the fence attaches to the table top? I personally haven't figured out how to keep the fence square end to end and was hoping to see someone else's idea...


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

dbhost - if you look at the first and fifth photos you will see two blue t-channels running just under the fence. In photo two you can see the knobs that I turn to loosen or tighten the fence's movement. Just with those two and being at the right dimensions, keeps the fence pretty much square to the markings on the Woodpecker router lift and square to the t-track in front of the fence. But as shown in photos one and three - I added two blocks, one on each end of the fence that helps even more to keep the fence square. As we all know the fence does not need to be square on the table when routing. That is the nice thing about the router bit being in the middle of the table, but I wanted to keep the fence square with the t-track in front so I can use a miter gauge at any time, and the blocks on the end of the fence do just that.. To keep the fence sliding smoothly, I first wax the top of the table, then let it dry totally - then sprinkle Johnson baby powder on the surface. Talk about slick - I have to remember not to push the work piece to hard or it slides right off onto the floor. Also your right on the T track - Rockler has T-track with several knobs thrown in at half price.
Lucas - I hope I did not high jack your post - and I hope anything I have shown will help you in a small way. As I stated - some of those Router tables - like the one that Norm builds are just fantastic - but way out of my price range. Being on a set income - I try to do things the most economical way (sound better than cheap) and yet have a product that I can use for years. My router table so far has just done that. (The Woodpecker lift was purchased at a steal from E-bay - for less that 1/3 of the price of a new one - and that is the only reason I have something that nice in the old router table.)


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## Lucas54 (Aug 21, 2008)

Please share away! :thumbsup: Any ideas are great. Thank you for the added pictures of your fence. I like the blocks at each end. That will solve one of the issues I've been milling around. 

As for a switch, I was considering just going with a regular light switch with maybe a couple outlets. Haven't decided on that one yet though.


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

Lucas - this may be helpful - it from another site but as your talking about using a light switch...and your outlets


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## [email protected] (Jan 10, 2009)

Can u guys help I put a piece of plexi 3/16 thick in router table.for insert. Whwn I put straightedge on plexi itself it is flat,but when I run straightedge across entire table theres a gap of about 1/16 right around area where router is attached. Insert is decently level in opening no more than 1/64 in places need to sand a little more,but would that little bit throw things off that much.Confused and Frustrated in Minnesota oh yah and cold too.


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## Lucas54 (Aug 21, 2008)

3/16" sounds a little thin. You are probably just getting some sag. I would go with a thicker plastic or buy an actual router table plate. I used 1/4" acryllic for mine, but I will definitely be upgrading to a metal plate down the road.


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## codgerbill (Jan 8, 2010)

*Router table*

Larry sch,

I was just looking at your router table pictures. I am in the process of doing the same thing. I have built the base from 2x4's and purchased 3/4' plywood (2'x4') and 3/4" MDF (2'x4'). I have purchased the Incra tracks for my miter gauge (3/4"X 4') and the "T" slots for the fence which is yet to be built. I have 2 questions (for now anyway):
1. How many inches from the proposed router bit center did you locate the miter gauge slot?
2. How far apart are your "t" slots for the fence?


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## cajtar (Jan 13, 2010)

LarrySch, that table looks sweet! Great job.

I'm curious about the small rectangular slot I see on the outfeed side of the table that goes thru the top - can you explain?

I see a small vent on the side of the table, I take it that's an inlet so not to build massive suction around the workpiece?

Also, how did you glue-up the MDF top? did you just use Titebond-stuff and then put a bunch of weight on top?

Do you think I'm crazy for building a rolling outfeed table like this [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZyguUCdw4s], but making it dual purpose (also router table). If I make the outfeed table long enough, should I make the infeed or outfeed part longer (I'm thinking outfeed just so it's easier to control the piece near the bit...)

TIA for your advice
Cheers,
cajtar-


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

larry said:


> Can u guys help I put a piece of plexi 3/16 thick in router table.for insert. Whwn I put straightedge on plexi itself it is flat,but when I run straightedge across entire table theres a gap of about 1/16 right around area where router is attached. Insert is decently level in opening no more than 1/64 in places need to sand a little more,but would that little bit throw things off that much.Confused and Frustrated in Minnesota oh yah and cold too.


I would try some thicker plexi, or look for an insert on sale.

Gerry


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Plastic cutting boards make great insert material


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## mics_54 (Oct 28, 2008)

> The biggest mistake novice woodworkers make is advancing the router in the wrong direction.


I appreciate the and understand this idea however I think it's an opportune moment to interject that there is also a time for letting a router "run" in a controlled manner to eliminate tearout and dressing an edge before the final pass in the other direction. I use this technique often.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I never have any luck letting the router run with the cutting direction. It always seems to grab and take off creating feathers in my work piece. just my experience making guitars. Other guys say to always route downhill, and again, that never worked out well for me either.


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

Boy - going back to an old post - but I see questions were asked that I completely missed. 
codgerbill - I guess by this time - your table is built and you do not need the measurements - sorry for missing that.
cajtar - the rectangular slot is to catch all the sawdust/shavings that are left in a groove, rabbets when they are cut. As the project passes over the slot - the down draft from the vacuum system pulls it out of the groove/slot and if your making the groove a little larger - rather than have the sawdust shoot out the left side of the project (outfeed side) onto the floor - the rectangular slot again will pull the sawdust down through the vacuum system. Also the vent on the side of the table is for relief to the 4" vacuum system when a project covers all the openings on the top of the table. With out it, the vacuum really labors. Yes, on the gluing of the top, just as you stated. I did revise the fence and made a removable slot for the bit.


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## codgerbill (Jan 8, 2010)

codgerbill - I guess by this time - your table is built and you do not need the measurements - sorry for missing that.

Larry,

As a matter of fact I just finished gluing the 3/4" MDF to the 3/4" plywood and trimming the edges and then I used contact cement to attach the formica to the MDF. :icon_smile: I will be using either maple or oak for the edgeing on the table. So.... I would really appreciate the measurements for the miter slot and tracks tracks as well as measurements from the front edge to the center of the router base:yes:. I was at the woodworking store in my area ( Electric Tool in Ann Arbor Mich) and someone made a template out of aluminum for the Rousseau router baseplate and even have a bushing with a removable collar with the kit. That person gave it to the tool store for others to take it home and use it (no charge). Once I finish routing for the router base and slots I will paint the underside (Plywood) and then attach it to the base. After that I will build a fence using what you have done as a guide. Ill plan on posting some pictures too:thumbsup:.


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## cajtar (Jan 13, 2010)

LarrySch,
Thanks a million for the info - that table is absolutely sweet. I can't think of a thing that is missing! Me thinks I'll need to build one just like it! When that happens I hope you don't mind if I have a couple more Q's...
Cheers-


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## LarrySch (Dec 31, 2007)

Colt - Your right - those cutting boards do make good inserts and also great patterns. Very long lasting. (Plus they are cheap!!!)

Cajtar - glad I could help. The table may not look like much - but it works very well. 


Codgerbill: Sound like your on your way with the router table. I should of edged mine - but it was an after thought and doing it now would not work. I put the wagon in front of the horse. (*sigh*)


> I would really appreciate the measurements for the miter slot and tracks tracks as well as measurements from the front edge to the center of the router base


The center of the router sits 13.5 inches from the front (I would again say that this measurement is just personal - If you are not 6' tall as I am - you may want the router closer to the front so you do not have to reach so far - all the measurements are personal - as I stood at the table top and did some reaching to see where the router would be best for my reach). The miter slots for the track - are approx. 2" from the base plate on each side. (This slot really can be placed any distance for the style of fence you are building - I made mine - again - personal - so I could push the fence with one finger - back and fourth - without it binding.) The track between the front and the center of the router is 7.5 inches from the front. *NOTE*: I made a mistake in placing the track and wish I had though of this before. Before you cut the groove for this track - you need to make sure whatever type of featherboards you are using - is going to reach (almost) to the bit. I failed to think of this and my featherboard - at full extension - sometimes is short of making it to the project. Thus I wish I would of made the distance of 7.5 inches at least 7 to 6 inches or maybe less. Also if you are making inserts for the fence - such as I have - make sure that you make a number of them - they will get destroyed with the router bit hitting them (sometimes.) And it is much easier to make them at one time - all would be the same size - than to try and go back later and figure out what size they really are. Also one other thing that I did with the inserts for the fence - was to drill numerous small holes in the insert. I found out that when I ran a small piece of wood past the router bit - I needed to drop the insert all the way to the table - so the project would not go into the insert hole - droping it to the table was no problem - but it cut off my vacuum system for the fence. Drilling the holes in the insert allowed the vacuum in the fence to keep working - and still pulling the dust and small saw dust from the project. Hope this helped.
(My featherboards and dust port came from here: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21266)


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