# Inset drawer question



## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

I'm building a component cabinet without a face frame that will have 3 drawers above 3 doors that will all to be inset.

Is there any tricks or tips when doing this or will inset drawers not look right without a faceframe because of the slides?


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Just put a second front board on the drawers. That hides the drawer slides.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

sanchez said:


> Just put a second front board on the drawers. That hides the drawer slides.


Ok thanks!


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Oh yeah, don't forget to move the cabinet half of the slides back the thickness of the second front.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

sanchez said:


> Oh yeah, don't forget to move the cabinet half of the slides back the thickness of the second front.


Thanks, the front will be 3/4"


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

What are some tips you can give me to installing slides.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

What I usually do on one like that is cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to the height you want the drawer guide and just place it in the opening and mount the slide on top of plywood. This insures they are all the same. Then I make an L shaped piece of wood to hold under the drawer box to position the drawer member.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Plywood trick is right on. As for space, the common space between drawer and cabinet sides ought to be a half inch... the slide manufacturer will have those specs for their slides but 1/2 " is what I've seen.

As for the fronts of the drawers and the doors, make sure you cut them a bit larger then the opening of the draw and door cavities. It is possible that the openings are not quite square (maybe something slipped while gluing or wood moved etc.). You will need to sneak the fronts and door down to the opening size minus 3/16 or 1/8" on all 4 sides. To get even spaces on all 4 sides, some folks use coins and I use craft sticks. Here is an example when I built my son's desk...


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Thanks guys for the tips.


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

My measurements could be challenged... I watched a video after my post and the Master woodworker said he gives his insets a total of 3/16" which translates too 3/32 on all 4 sides. I personally know another who gives 1/8" on all sides. All boils down to preferences and what type of wood and size or in a nutshell, amount of anticipated wood movement.

But my method works for me. I may replace my craft sticks with thinner material...


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

BernieL said:


> My measurements could be challenged... I watched a video after my post and the Master woodworker said he gives his insets a total of 3/16" which translates too 3/32 on all 4 sides. I personally know another who gives 1/8" on all sides. All boils down to preferences and what type of wood and size or in a nutshell, amount of anticipated wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> But my method works for me. I may replace my craft sticks with thinner material...



I'm using cherry for drawers & doors and drawer measurements will approximately be 19 X 3 3/4.

Should I have a rail between door & drawer because my plan doesn't have one, or is that a personal preference?


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Personal preference does come into play for anything you build but so do basic building components. I'm not sure of what exactly you are trying to build but think about your draw slides or rails... they need to be attached to sides of cabinet or a web if a rail is to be used. 

Before preferences come into play - how ire the components going to function and what do you need to make them work?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

If you have an opening of 30" x 30" in width/length I'll make the two doors for a pair 14 15/16 x 29 15/16. Mount the hinges install door for a dry fit and remove/sand whatever needed to fit the openings depending on the gap necessary. Your season tells another story to be concerned about with winter and summer when deciding the gaps.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

BernieL said:


> Personal preference does come into play for anything you build but so do basic building components. I'm not sure of what exactly you are trying to build but think about your draw slides or rails... they need to be attached to sides of cabinet or a web if a rail is to be used.
> 
> 
> 
> Before preferences come into play - how ire the components going to function and what do you need to make them work?



I'm building a cabinet for my electronic components receiver, DVD player, game systems.

Since my cabinet doesnt have a face frame should I put a rail/divider between drawers and doors since I will have a drawer above each door or is that not necessary to add that?


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Since I don't know what you are building - only you can answer the question. How are your drawers sliding in and out and if your drawers are 2 wide, then you will need 2 slides in the middle unless they are riding on a rail mounted on a web. Look at post #2 by Sanchez - his drawers are riding on slides mounted on the sides so he needed a divider between the the drawers - looks like sort of a face frame even if it's not. The beautiful cabinets by Rebelwork have face frames.

I can't answer your questions because I can't visualize your build. You need to do that and answer your own questions.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

TrevortdogR said:


> I'm building a cabinet for my electronic components receiver, DVD player, game systems.
> 
> Since my cabinet doesnt have a face frame should I put a rail/divider between drawers and doors since I will have a drawer above each door or is that not necessary to add that?


You have to have a divider wherever you have hinges or drawer guides. It doesn't have to be seen and be behind the drawers or doors. 

is this similar to the design you are trying to build, A frame less cabinet?


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Rebelwork said:


> is this similar to the design you are trying to build, A frame less cabinet?



Yes, that exactly what I'm talking about. There is no rail/divider between face/front of door and drawer.

That answers my question that it doesn't need to have one.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You stated a "no face frame" cabinet in the beginning but we over looked it. You'll need to look into "full overlay" when it comes to hardware and design...


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Rebelwork said:


> You stated a "no face frame" cabinet in the beginning but we over looked it. You'll need to look into "full overlay" when it comes to hardware and design...



Im probably going with Euro hinges and since doors will be inset I should get inset hinges not overlay


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

TrevortdogR said:


> Im probably going with Euro hinges and since doors will be inset I should get inset hinges not overlay


This is overlay..............


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

TrevortdogR said:


> Im probably going with Euro hinges and since doors will be inset I should get inset hinges not overlay


This is inset............


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

Rebelwork said:


> This is overlay..............


I understand the difference between inset and overlay and mine will be inset with no face frame.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

So i think if you don't have a divider between the drawers and the doors, your doorstops will have to be on the bottom of the cabinet, or you'll have to go with very expensive soft close inset euro hinges.

Also I think it may look strange not to have a divider below the drawers. If you're going to the effort of making inset doors and drawers, the divider helps to show that they are inset. You'll have to have dividers between the drawers so put them below as well.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

sanchez said:


> So i think if you don't have a divider between the drawers and the doors, your doorstops will have to be on the bottom of the cabinet, or you'll have to go with very expensive soft close inset euro hinges.
> 
> Also I think it may look strange not to have a divider below the drawers. If you're going to the effort of making inset doors and drawers, the divider helps to show that they are inset. You'll have to have dividers between the drawers so put them below as well.


Thanks for chiming in and I think you are only only one who understood my question.

I know typical face frame rails and stiles are 1 1/2" wide so will it matter if I make the divider 1" or less?


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

The metal insert for the doors is .020" thick what do you guys suggest for cutting a groove for this to fit without it being so wide it moves around when doors open and close?


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

I don't know how to cut a groove that thin. Is that right, 0.02", 1/50th of an inch? Or is it 0.2", 1/5"?

You don't necessarily have to cut a groove for it. You could just hold the panel in place with a small strip of wood that is set flush with the back side of the door.


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## TrevortdogR (Feb 1, 2013)

sanchez said:


> I don't know how to cut a groove that thin. Is that right, 0.02", 1/50th of an inch? Or is it 0.2", 1/5"?
> 
> You don't necessarily have to cut a groove for it. You could just hold the panel in place with a small strip of wood that is set flush with the back side of the door.


According to home depot website it is and it is really thin. 

I had thought about the small strip of wood thing but wanted to see what else you guys had to offer.


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