# Router table and fence



## Hightider (Mar 20, 2012)

I bought a used PC router from a guy and he gave me his unfinished router table top.
After some searching I decided to build a cabinet style router table for it with a homemade fence.









Lots of storage.








Router plug and shop vac plug on back of the cabinet are wired to the switch.








I used some 4"X4" aluminum angle for the fence backbone and incra track for it to ride on.
The fence front is made from 3/4" plastic sheeting.

I milled the aluminum with my router(first time trying this) and it came out pretty good.
After complete frustration looking for the correct fittings, Y's,etc, to fit my shop hose I finally built my own junction box... 








I only need a few more things to complete it and then I have to figure out what finish to put on it..

Wood used: Birch plywood and maple trim.


----------



## Hightider (Mar 20, 2012)

Close up of the dust box. I used some plexiglass for the sides.









The push clamps work good for keeping the table from moving.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*some nice ideas there*

Too bad you couldn't find the the necessary fittings for the shop vac. I have used round plastic bottles and cut the bottoms and top off to make sleeves to fit those kind of connections. Be aware that any sharp changes in direction affect the flow considerably.

My concern with that big PC 7518 router in a cabinet, which is almost entirely sealed, would be cooling. I know you want to draw the dust downward, but that also directs it over the motor. I find that a powerful shop vac will get most of the dust and chips right off the cutter/fence if you seal that off well. 
If you don't do long routing sessions you may not have a problem, but I'd keep a close eye on it.

Nice fence arrangement and drawer workout. :thumbsup:

Also be aware of any exposed switch knobs that may get bumped "on" inadvertantly. It should be a housed or protected type, where it's "push" for on/off rather than the typical toggle which is too easy to turn on accidentally. Been there. done that myself. :blink:


----------



## Hightider (Mar 20, 2012)

Thankyou for the feedback!! 
The cooling issue did cross my mind and I was going to keep a close eye on it and make whatever upgrades needed as I went...Any advice is really appreciated.

I also pondered the exposed switch idea but I was hoping that with the tops overhang it would work safely.....

Much thanks for the vac advice! I know very little about the most efficient way to connect it, so I winged it  I'll be hooking it all up soon, so I can do some experimenting while hooked up.
if I could find a standard plastic "Y" that my shop vac hoses would plug in to, then I would take my contraption off....


----------



## desertforest (Aug 6, 2011)

nice cabinet. the birch ply looks neat.


----------



## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

Could you give the dimensions of the cabinet (LxWxH), (NOT counting the top) please?


----------



## Hightider (Mar 20, 2012)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Could you give the dimensions of the cabinet (LxWxH), (NOT counting the top) please?


 
The cabinet itself is 45" L x 22-1/4" W x 30-1/2" H (not counting the top or caster height)


----------



## Jim West Pa (Jul 27, 2010)

Very nicely done Hightider :yes:


----------



## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

I like it, especially the fence.:thumbsup:


----------



## Ostie (Dec 19, 2010)

That's a very nice router table. I'm wanting to build one very similar to that myself.


----------



## Hightider (Mar 20, 2012)

I've been thinking about what "Woodnthings" mentioned about the vac hook up and I have another idea that maybe you guys can help me with.

If I get a really good seal at the fence port and hook my vac to that location only, would a small cooling fan mounted in the cabinet blowing inward work for cooling the motor?

Here's a link to fan for reference:
Amazon.com: Yate Loon 120 X 25mm (4.72 X 0.98 Inch) Ultra Quiet Cabinet Fan + Ac Power Adapter + Mounting Panel + Mesh + Grill: Electronics

I don't know if this will work or if it would effect anything(vacum,etc) by forcing air into the cabinet. Any thoughts?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The reason the seal the router area?*

The only reason I can see to enclose the router space is to reduce the noise, and that's not a bad reason. :no: Those things scream. I'd try it with the back end open, or if that's not possible at this point leave the door off and see what it sounds like. The router has it's own cooling fan, but I don't think it was meant to be confined in a cabinet. I'm sure other have enclosed theirs, but all mine just hang down in space under the table and I wear hearing protection when it's too noisy. I'm also pretty sure the router fan blows upward to keep the chips out of the motor, so it's drawing air through the motor from below. 

Sound absorbing material on the inside of the space might be a way to go and leave the door off when routing but put it on for "looks"or hinge it if you haven't already done that.  bill


----------



## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

Most tables I've seen completed have air ports on the door to facilitate with airflow both for the router and the vac. Else, any dust that falls to the bottom of the cabinet is probably going to sit there. Otherwise, it looks nice.


----------



## Hightider (Mar 20, 2012)

:thumbsup:


woodnthings said:


> The only reason I can see to enclose the router space is to reduce the noise, and that's not a bad reason. :no: Those things scream. I'd try it with the back end open, or if that's not possible at this point leave the door off and see what it sounds like. The router has it's own cooling fan, but I don't think it was meant to be confined in a cabinet. I'm sure other have enclosed theirs, but all mine just hang down in space under the table and I wear hearing protection when it's too noisy. I'm also pretty sure the router fan blows upward to keep the chips out of the motor, so it's drawing air through the motor from below.
> 
> Sound absorbing material on the inside of the space might be a way to go and leave the door off when routing but put it on for "looks"or hinge it if you haven't already done that.  bill


I do have the door hinged so maybe I should just play with it some to find the best solution. I have a tendancy to overthink things at times:w00t:



cocheseuga said:


> Most tables I've seen completed have air ports on the door to facilitate with airflow both for the router and the vac. Else, any dust that falls to the bottom of the cabinet is probably going to sit there. Otherwise, it looks nice.


Thats why "Woodnthings" suggestion about hooking just to the fence hit home. 
I did clamp it all down and hooked the vac to the cabinet port only while cutting a small scrap board(with vac on, door closed).

I didn't see anywhere near the amount of dust/chips enter OR leave the cabinet that I expected, Instead most of it stayed on or around the table top but it was much quieter with the door closed..

Learning as I go here:yes: 

Thanks for your help guys:thumbsup:


----------

