# Buffet Table Build



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Just got done with the carcass. Going to start on the outside now.
Wood is Cherry plywood for carcass, Cherry for outside, and maple and cherry for drawers. I am going with three doors and two drawers.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Geez....I've got a TV stand going that I've made that much progress on in two months. 

Good work though.


----------



## arvanlaar (Dec 29, 2014)

Looks good! I like the different storage size areas.


----------



## arvanlaar (Dec 29, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> Geez....I've got a TV stand going that I've made that much progress on in two months.
> 
> Good work though.


Ryan I am starting to think you are just really slow at building  Just started reading your router table thread today lol.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Yeah....it's the byproduct of working too much, having too many projects going on at once, and having too many hobbies.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

mengtian said:


> Just got done with the carcass. Going to start on the outside now.
> Wood is Cherry plywood for carcass, Cherry for outside, and maple and cherry for drawers. I am going with three doors and two drawers.


Looking good. I like you glue up method. :thumbsup:
Mike


----------



## igster (Oct 31, 2013)

What's that "paper" under the clamped cross pieces? wax paper, to prevent them from becoming stuck to the piece by squeeze-out?


----------



## Travico (Dec 25, 2012)

When I first read the caption, I thought of JIMMY BUFFET!! It still looks like it is going to be a nice build!!


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Had to go get some 8/4 Cherry for legs. I don't have a jointer so cut the piece into a managable size (36 inches) and ran it thorugh my planer. It was cupped a little bit so I put shims under it and ran it through my planer a million time LOL......it came out really flat on both sides. Cut down to size and rough cut the legs. I need to shape them a little bit tonight.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Help on raised panels. I am going to do raised panels for the doors. The door will be about 17inches so the panel would be about 11 to 12 inches. Is it best to glue up two or three pieces to get the width as opposed to getting a large panel? Right now I have plenty of Cherry to glue up. I was also thinking that one panel would be more prone to movement.

Any advice?


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I've always glued up panels. Alternate grain direction on the end grain to help minimize movement.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Some progress. Will finish the face frame tonight. I already glued up the wood for the doors so might get started on that tommorrow.

My first raised panels...I was unsure if I would go with them on the sides but the wife said she wanted them. Doors will new raised panel as well. The sides were a learning experience as far as sizing. After routing them with an Ogee raised panel bit the fit was off. So I trimed each side by 1/8 inch and ran it throught the router one more time.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

The end piece looks good. It will look great when you get in finished.


----------



## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

This is looking great. Your wife was right, the raised panel on the end looks fantastic.


----------



## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Looking good!


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Got the face frame done and back panel (back panel is not installed, I just propped it up for pic) Just need the drawers and doors.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

I have used dowel and sliding dovetail joints. Only 4 screws were used so far and that was to hold the side panels in place while I took measurments and fitted some parts:smile:


----------



## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

mengtian said:


> Some progress. Will finish the face frame tonight. I already glued up the wood for the doors so might get started on that tommorrow.
> 
> My first raised panels...I was unsure if I would go with them on the sides but the wife said she wanted them. Doors will new raised panel as well. The sides were a learning experience as far as sizing. After routing them with an Ogee raised panel bit the fit was off. So I trimed each side by 1/8 inch and ran it throught the router one more time.


How did you attach the side panels to the carcass?


----------



## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

That's really coming along well. Nice design!


----------



## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm guessing the end panels FLOAT, 

Dale in Indy


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

smithbrother said:


> I'm guessing the end panels FLOAT,
> 
> Dale in Indy


If you mean the raised panel....yes. It is not glued in but set in 1/4 inch slots.


----------



## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

mengtian said:


> If you mean the raised panel....yes. It is not glued in but set in 1/4 inch slots.


But how was the side structure (post/panel) attached to the side of the plywood carcass? Glue or screw? Both? I am not trying to find fault in your project, just learn how it was done.

edit:

From this: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attachments/f13/121353d1421955024-buffet-table-build-carcass-assy.jpg

to

this:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/atta...ffet-table-build-16227481697_0d08b9cc29_o.jpg


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

cps said:


> But how was the side structure (post/panel) attached to the side of the plywood carcass? Glue or screw? Both? I am not trying to find fault in your project, just learn how it was done.
> 
> edit:
> 
> ...


Dowels(to connect side panels to face frame), spline(for the top part of the panels to the top panel, and floating tenons (tenons were on the lower face frame rail). The plans I based this off of is below. It called for biscuits. I thought of using some screws on the inside but it is solid and I do not think it needs to be done. I can still put screws in. I used them to hold them in place while I did the face frame

This is what I based my design off of:


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

BTW: If you are wondering why I went with so many different techniques is because I wanted to try different skills and to see what works for me

And if anyone sees a problem I would always appreciate feedback!


----------



## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

mengtian said:


> Dowels(to connect side panels to face frame), spline(for the top part of the panels to the top panel, and floating tenons (tenons were on the lower face frame rail). The plans I based this off of is below. It called for biscuits. I thought of using some screws on the inside but it is solid and I do not think it needs to be done. I can still put screws in. I used them to hold them in place while I did the face frame
> 
> This is what I based my design off of:


Thanks for the info....that does answer my question.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

cps said:


> Thanks for the info....that does answer my question.


I am doing a lot of "firsts" for this build. That is why it is taking about three weeks to get done.

Firsts:

1: Raised Panels
2: Rabbeted hal-blind dovetails for drawers
3: Floating tenons
4: Splines

500 years from now some archeolgoists will uncover the table and wonder what the heck I was thinking about by using so many different techniques for joinery


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

*Got my first raised panel doors done*

Well, I finally did my first set of raised panel doors. It took about 2 hours from start to finish. Most of that was second guessing my self and doing the calculations a thousand times. I was off about 1/4 inch so I just need to shave an 1/8 of an inch off of each door.

The instrcutions that came with the bit set were excellent. The equations came out pretty much right on. The 1/4 inch error was self induced because I never did these before and figured I would round up.

Oh, part of the two hours was to make a coping sled.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Coping sled....simple but it worked


----------



## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

The doors look great. That's a skill you will use on many many projects. Sled looks good too, does it slide along the fence instead of mitre slot? I usually just use a wide scrap piece along the fence but it isn't always fun....


----------



## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

The doors look great, as does the rest of the project. Nicely done!


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

was2ndlast said:


> The doors look great. That's a skill you will use on many many projects. Sled looks good too, does it slide along the fence instead of mitre slot? I usually just use a wide scrap piece along the fence but it isn't always fun....


It rides against the fence. I was going to do a miter slot bar for it but I don't really see the need. Then again,,,,I am no expert since it was my first three doors LOL....(I got the third one a bit ago)


----------



## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

Looks nice. Well done so far


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Finally got back to work on the buffet. Got the back panel cut and glued up the table top. I am finally getting better at glue ups. I will do a close up later but you can't see the joint lines. I wold appreciate any thoughts on the table top and how to complete it.
Options:
1: Leave it alone
3: Round over bit or ogee bit for the edge
3: Banding around the edge
4: Breadboard ends (or mitered ones all the way around

I was going to do an inlay but the Cherry is figured pretty good with the grain and I thought inlay would not look good.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

FWIW:

I ripped the 4 boards for the table top with a Freud Rip blade and then lined them up. I saw very minor hairline gaps. Most likely would have been ok and no one would have noticed unless they were looking at the craftsmanship behind it.

I then put my Freud glueline blade in and ripped each board again. No gaps at all.

Peoples experience may vary....but for me the glueline does perform better. I have done four glueups and tested each one out this way and the glueline does give a better joint. I do need to get a jointer some day though!


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Wow, this is turning out really nice. I am enjoying the build.


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

As far as the top goes, I think a profiled edge would look best on your design. But that's just one free opinion.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

sanchez said:


> As far as the top goes, I think a profiled edge would look best on your design. But that's just one free opinion.


I am leaning toward round over bit or using the ogee raised panel bit right now.....might change my mind later today


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

I think I am getting better at getting my boards to match up during a glue up. I got the grain to look half way decent.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Almost done. Finally did rabbetted half-blind dovetails. I ran the dado too deep for the bottom (slight opening in bottom tail). Other than that I was happy with it. Just got to put hardware on and finish.


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

What kind of finish do you guys think? I want something clear, not a stain/


----------



## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

Looking real nice


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

My wife wants these for the drawer pulls:
http://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/furniture-hardware-chippendale-2-1-2?sc=11&category=95

Does anyone have a good cheaper source for atique brass pulls?


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

I got the doors fitted, put in the drawer guides and kickers. Ordered the hardware. Once that gets in I am done:icon_smile:


----------



## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

Beautiful work. That looks fantastic!


----------



## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

It does look great. One question, why do you not have the spacing between doors even? Maybe it's just the angle? Or its a hinged 2 door setup on the left


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

was2ndlast said:


> It does look great. One question, why do you not have the spacing between doors even? Maybe it's just the angle? Or its a hinged 2 door setup on the left


2 door set up on the left. If I had thought about it more I would have done it a bit differently. If you sre standing up it is not so noticeable.


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Looks good! 

But I wouldn't leave the miter saw on top like that.


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looks good. You could use a small sliver of wood to fill the gap in the drawer, if it bothers you. You're doing a fine job on it. The top would look good with a round over or an ogee. I think I'd run a bevel on bottom and a small round over on top.


----------



## Jeff Shafer (Nov 16, 2010)

Man that's a great looking buffet!


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

All done except for the pulls. I am really tickes at a certain vendor. I ordered them on Tues with 2 day delivery (15 bucks) and they do not arrive until Monday. I wanted this complet by today since we are having family over for dinner and the wife wanted it done. Anyhoo, 3 coats of waterlox. I think it came out OK. I need to shim one door after I put the pulls on. Otherwise I am happy with it.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Looking good!!!


----------



## cps (Jun 21, 2013)

Turned out great!!!


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Beautiful job. Great finish. Hopefully others will be inspired to put down the poly and do the same.

Al


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Man, that turned out nice.


----------



## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

Beautiful piece. Love cherry too. Excellent job and thanx for sharing


----------



## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

All done with hardware


----------



## new2woodwrk (Mar 16, 2015)

Wow, looks great - grats on a great project


----------



## blackpearl (Jul 20, 2012)

What a royal look! Really a superb piece of furniture. I admire your workmanship.


----------



## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Wow! Thanks for posting the finished product where it belongs!


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Outstanding!!


----------

