# Circular saw rail guide build



## Chris Curl

I came across a sketchup model for a rail guided sled for a circular saw, so I had to build one.

In my garage, I have a bunch of scraps, t-nuts, 1/4-20 bolts and some hardboard.

Here is my build thread for it.

The hardboard is 8" wide, and my saw's base (a Ryobi) is little over 6" wide and 11" long. I also dug up a piece of 1 1.2" wide poplar. Yesterday, I bought a 5' length of 1 1/2x3/4 maple for the rail. Today, I came across some t-track I have had for a while. It is also 3/4" wide.

So I cut a 15" long piece of the hardboard for the sled. The smooth side will go down to reduce friction.


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## Chris Curl

I cut a piece of the poplar 14". This goes on the edge of the hardboard, to hold the sled agains the rail.

Then I had an idea. I should make it adjustable so that I can make sure there is no play and it glides easily.

So I put some t-nuts at the ends, about 12" apart.

I'm a t-nut freak ... I love those things.


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## Chris Curl

Then I cut a few more scraps (paint stirrers glued together) at 4" and drilled holes to cross the rail and hold the other runner. I slotted one side a little to give it some adjustability.

But I didn't have enough poplar for the other runner, so I started digging and came across a piece the I made a while ago for another hairbrained project: 3 paint stirrers glued together. It was 1 1/2" wide and 3/4" thick. That would have to do.


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## Chris Curl

The first dry fit revealed a couple of problems. First, I put the t-nuts on the wrong side, so the HD stamp was on the top. Sigh.

The bigger problem though, was that the tops of the runneres didn't line up. Since the hardboard is 1/8" and the poplar is 1/2", the sled side of the runner is 5/8", 1/8" lower than the 3/4" of the runner. 

I decided to skim off enough of the paint stirrers with the TS to bring it down even with the other side. This also allowed me to fix the other problem of the stamp being on the wrong side!


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## Chris Curl

The 2nd dry fit went better. Then I noticed there is a lip on the edge of the saw's base that was flush against the runner. That was when another idea came ... I had a cutoff of an L-bracket from another hair brained scheme lying around.


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## Chris Curl

The screw is so short though that I needed another way to hold the bracket down. More t-nuts to the rescue! I put 2 inmore , on either side of the saw's motor in case I need another bracket. I spaced them out like that so that the motor wouldn't hit the bracket when it is all the way down. There is only 5/8" clearance under the motor, and the runner just barely under there as it was.


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## Chris Curl

Glue up time. I did it in stages, with the runner to the hardboard first, followed by the front hold in, then the back old in.


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## Chris Curl

So the sled is complete, save a little possible cleanup/trimming of edges that are a little oversized, and maybe make another hold down bracket.

I am very pleased with how the adjustment mechanism allows me to snug up the to rail so there is ZERO play. That worked out great.

Next: decide on the final rail and secure it to the base. Then the maiden cut will be to trim the base at the edge of the blade.

Time to decide if I want to hold on the the t-track for a use more suited to t-track. or I should go with the dado and the 3/4" maple I bought for the purpose.


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## SebringDon

It looks like you're off to a great start, Chris. Now you've got me back at the drawing board too. I'm gonna go sit and stare at my circ saw for a while, and see what visions I can conjure up.

BTW, I'd go for the maple in the first round. I always test the least-expensive feasible solution first. I'm frugal, not cheap. :laughing:


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## J Thomas

That looks great Chris! How bout a video of it in action??? hint hint.. nudge nudge:yes:


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## Chris Curl

will do, if i can swing it


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