# Narex Chisels -size question



## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I am thinking about buying some Narex Chisels from Lee Valley. I have no good chisel and I am starting from scratch. In starting my wood shop this year I have been spending money and I am looking to save where I can. That being said I was debating between the 4 piece set and the 7 piece set. The 4 set comes with 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1" chisels and is $41 The 7 piece set has those four and the 3/8, 5/8 and 7/8 chisels for $69. Will I be missing the three extra chisels or would I be able to make do with the four? I am sure I could make do, but want to know if the other sizes really make a difference. Also if I got the four piece set, would it be wise to add the 1 1/4, 1 1/2 or the 2". I know it is an individual woodworking thing on what any person needs, I am just looking for opinions on the most general, useful combo. Maybe the four piece set and some M&T chisels.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67707&cat=1,41504

Thanks
Paul

Plus LV has free shipping until 1/3


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

I have a small (filled the middle five drawers on my bench) chisel problem. If it has a socket, I can't pass it up. Having said that, for normal stuff (no carving) the 1/4 and the 1/2 are the ones I use the most (a long thin 1/8 is helpful too).

The only time I've used the 1.5 or the 2 were for door-hinge mortises for a new door to the garage. That hasn't stopped me from gathering up every one I see though, or going all crazy-bidder at the auctions when I see a 3" chisel or slick. 

The only time having a 5/8 versus a 1/2 or a 3/8 comes in handy is in mortise/tenon work where it helps to use the same size chisel throughout the work, sized to the mortise - for example if I'm doing a 3/8" wide mortise I might use a 3/8" drill bit to start, power it out with a 3/8 mortise bit, and then clean up the two short sides with a 3/8" bevel edged chisel (and yes I know a lot of people would skip the drill or do it differently) Other than that, it's not an exact enough science. 

On the other hand, they are tools and it never hurts to have extra tools just in case.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Maybe I go with the 4 piece set and a 3/8 M&T to start me out. I plan on doing M&T's since my goal is to build Arts & Crafts style funiture. Then just add to them as I progress.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Just ordered the four chisel set to get me started. Silly question, but I am guessing that the wooden handled chisels don't like to be whacked with a metal hammer, perhaps a wooden mallet?

Thanks
Paul


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Just ordered the four chisel set to get me started. Silly question, but I am guessing that the wooden handled chisels don't like to be whacked with a metal hammer, perhaps a wooden mallet?
> 
> Thanks
> Paul


Right!! A metal hammer will destroy the wood handle of a chisel.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Maybe I go with the 4 piece set and a 3/8 M&T to start me out. I plan on doing M&T's since my goal is to build Arts & Crafts style funiture. Then just add to them as I progress.


I missed this thread yesterday, sorry. Yes, the 4 piece will suite you fine. I probably wasn't real clear when you asked about em last time, but the real reason I have as many sizes as I can is because I do so much by hand. You are making the right call getting the 3/8 mortice chisel, the 1/4 is not a bad idea either if your doing any small rail and stiles by hand. Those are the two I find that I use the most. Mortising with a bevel chisel is doable, especialy if you'll be drilling the waste first but mortice chisels sure are nicer and easier. Right tool for the job makes all the difference!

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Firemedic I am putting the M&T chisel on hold due to budget reasons, the wife's car needs brakes. I will get them later and make do wth what I have. They look like nice chisels and will now have to get a way to sharpen then. I guess that means some kind of stone.

Thanks
Paul


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Everyone has their own method but I don't use stones anymore. I find wet sandpaper on glass or granite works great for me. Even MDF instead of glass is fine as it's flat enough. It's cheaper than most stones too. I start at 400x and end up at 2500x.

Google scary sharp method for some good info. Also be sure to look into "micro bevels" it's particularly important on the m&t chisels when you get them as the edge is brittle otherwise. 

There really is no mystery to sharpening, just need the knowledge. I like to flatten the backs and side bevels of my chisels too. Be SURE to "ease the edges" though if you do that... The sides will cut you with a quickness otherwise.

Good luck!

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Firemedic I am putting the M&T chisel on hold due to budget reasons, the wife's car needs brakes. I will get them later and make do wth what I have. They look like nice chisels and will now have to get a way to sharpen then. I guess that means some kind of stone.
> 
> Thanks
> Paul


The owner of our local hardware store gave me a piece of 1/4" plate glass (about 4" x 9"). I use auto finishing paper (180 grit to 2000 grit) for honing. After the 2000 I rub some polishing compound on the inside of a pasteboard from a Chex box and polish the blade. The system works well and it doesn't get any cheaper.


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Silly question, but I am guessing that the wooden handled chisels don't like to be whacked with a metal hammer, perhaps a wooden mallet?


Wood on wood is good, you can turn one fairly quickly on the lathe. Keep an eye out for an old leather mallet too, they're nice to have. 



Wrangler said:


> The owner of our local hardware store gave me a piece of 1/4" plate glass (about 4" x 9"). I use auto finishing paper (180 grit to 2000 grit) for honing. After the 2000 I rub some polishing compound on the inside of a pasteboard from a Chex box and polish the blade. The system works well and it doesn't get any cheaper.


I too have plate glass as part of my sharpening-tools stash. I've never gone over 600 grit on the paper, but that's just because I haven't seen anything finer around this 1-horse town and I've never bothered to order anything online. Now the polishing compound on the Chex box sounds very interesting and I wouldn't mind seeing some before/during/after pics. I prefer Cheerios or Cap'n Crunch but if it means a scary-sharp blade I'm willing to spring for a box of Chex. :smile:


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

joesbucketorust said:


> Wood on wood is good, you can turn one fairly quickly on the lathe. Keep an eye out for an old leather mallet too, they're nice to have.
> 
> I too have plate glass as part of my sharpening-tools stash. I've never gone over 600 grit on the paper, but that's just because I haven't seen anything finer around this 1-horse town and I've never bothered to order anything online. Now the polishing compound on the Chex box sounds very interesting and I wouldn't mind seeing some before/during/after pics. I prefer Cheerios or Cap'n Crunch but if it means a scary-sharp blade I'm willing to spring for a box of Chex. :smile:


I don't see why the others won't work! A Bud-Lite carton works just fine.

I get the paper at the local NAPA store. Any auto parts store should be able to get it.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Wrangler said:


> I get the paper at the local NAPA store. Any auto parts store should be able to get it.


I buy from the local auto body supply distributer... Cheap cheap for 3M.

Call a local body shop and find out who they buy from... Had to find a cheap source, I go through quite a bit of it with all the sharpening that goes on in my shop :smile:

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Just don't drink all the Bud Light before handling the chisels, could be dangerous. :smile:


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

Couldn't agree more, I pick up the cartons after the neighborhood parties!


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Every day is like Christmas for Paulie when he gets new toys in the mail. My chisels came today and I scored 57bf of nice cherry wood. I may actually build something in my shop someday.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Every day is like Christmas for Paulie when he gets new toys in the mail. My chisels came today and I scored 57bf of nice cherry wood. I may actually build something in my shop someday.


Nice! Flatten the backs, ease the edges, hone the cutting bevels and you'll love em like I do!

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

All things I would like to do Tom, all I need is an explaination of what that means. Is the back the flat part with no bevel? I am guessing it is. Easing the edges I guess is softening the sides so they are not sharp? And honing the cutting bevels is making the point/front blade sharp? Is that the only edge I want real sharp on a chisel? Can you recommend some starter sharpening stones that will not break the bank. What are the basics? Do I need a guage to keep the bevel until I get good at it? Thanks for the help.

Paul


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> All things I would like to do Tom, all I need is an explaination of what that means. Is the back the flat part with no bevel? I am guessing it is. Easing the edges I guess is softening the sides so they are not sharp? And honing the cutting bevels is making the point/front blade sharp? Is that the only edge I want real sharp on a chisel? Can you recommend some starter sharpening stones that will not break the bank. What are the basics? Do I need a guage to keep the bevel until I get good at it? Thanks for the help.
> 
> Paul


Your spot on with the guesses. Believe me when I say easing the edges is important. I didn't quite soften them enough on the last batch I got and cut my self on just about every size I had while making paring type cuts.

As for stone recommendations, by far the cheapest route, which is also what I use not because it's cheaper but simple, is wet sanding paper on a flat surface. A piece of granite, plate glass on a base or a piece of clean MDF. 

I found a few of the set were pretty flat while others took a bit of time to work them. I started with 400x (could have been coarser for the bad ones) and went up to 1200x. I did the same on the cutting bevel and then went up to 2500x for the micro bevel and back after to remove the bur from sharpening. 

A honing guide is helpful but not a must. I did find that despite yrs of experience sharpening without one that I got better results with one. I guess I'm just not gifted with free handing it. Google "scary sharp method" you will find all the info you need to get underway!

~tom.  ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## eagle49 (Mar 22, 2011)

*tools*

Just buy some old Stanleys at the flee market,there as good as they get. I never get over $4 each for the smaller sizes.


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

I bought a set of Woodriver chisels, with butt handles, on sale for $29 about a month ago (normally around $52 or so). They are really nice.. nice handles, rings, metal. Sharpened very well. Seem nice and heavy.

Only problem is now I need a 1/8" chisel and I dont know what to get. They don't have a wood river chisel in 1/8". I don't want to pay $30 for a pfeil or stanley, nor do I want to buy the ugly $11 Irwin blue chip chisel.

What should I buy, a Narex from LV?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

woodgeekess said:


> I bought a set of Woodriver chisels, with butt handles, on sale for $29 about a month ago (normally around $52 or so). They are really nice.. nice handles, rings, metal. Sharpened very well. Seem nice and heavy.
> 
> Only problem is now I need a 1/8" chisel and I dont know what to get. They don't have a wood river chisel in 1/8". I don't want to pay $30 for a pfeil or stanley, nor do I want to buy the ugly $11 Irwin blue chip chisel.
> 
> What should I buy, a Narex from LV?


Last I checked Narrex doesn't offer an 1/8" chisel in any style... Sure wish they would, I'd be first in line for one!!! 

You could get a Stanley Sweet Heart socket in 1/8" or buy any chisel in 1/4" and make an 1/8"

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

firemedic said:


> You could get a Stanley Sweet Heart socket in 1/8" or buy any chisel in 1/4" and make an 1/8"
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...


I bought a used 1/4" chisel and did exactly this. It works well. I don't use it very often so the investment level was proper.


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

I don't know how you guys go about making a 1/4" chisel a 1/8". I don't think I could get the sides perfectly paralell and perpendicular to the edge

I checked out the irwin 1/8" chisel and the handle is really long and the blade is long too.. I plan on using this for morticing and dado's so that would be a nightmare.. i'd like to get a butt version of a 1/8"


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

I started by grinding it on my bench grinder getting it close. I finished with a Dremel style die grinder. I wouldn't say it's perfect; but it seems to work OK. I only narrowed the first inch and a half.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

If you're going to use it for mortising, buy a chisel that is meant for that application. Lie Nielsen makes some nice mortise chisels.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

1/8" mortice...??? What the heck needs an 1/8" mortice???

...build n burn - live n learn...


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

firemedic said:


> 1/8" mortice...??? What the heck needs an 1/8" mortice???
> 
> ...build n burn - live n learn...


LOL! It's for a miniature shaker chest I am making my grandmother for use as a box for mail


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## woodgeekess (Mar 16, 2012)

sawdustfactory said:


> If you're going to use it for mortising, buy a chisel that is meant for that application. Lie Nielsen makes some nice mortise chisels.


Ok, thanks, I've just been enlightened. I now see that these "mortise" chisels are taller than they are wider to help keep the cut straight. The woodriver butt set I have (1/4 to 1 inch) are just beveled chisels. So I can't wait to get a set of mortise chisels--this should make dovetailing, mortising, dado's easier!

I guess I'll just buy the 1/8", 1/4", 1/2" Narex Mortise Chisels from Lee Valley, thanks. They are $14, $13, and $17 respectively:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=66737&cat=1,41504

(There you have it firemedic--1/8" mortise chisel!)


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