# templates for W&H machine



## shopman (Feb 14, 2013)

If anyone has a W&H this is a good way to set up your work. It makes repeat work extra fast as its just a matter of putting in the right template and blades. this could probably be adapted to other molders.

First get some 3/4" MDF blanks and thin 3/4" strips (1/4" high is good)

nail strips on underside of MDF to keep MDF from sliding around on steel bed. The two side strips keep out sliding and the long third strip makes it so you can only slide the template on one way.

set your blades into the machine (cord unplugged) and drop rotating blades lightly into MDF. This will give you reference marks to set up the two wood strips that will guide the raw wood into the blades. Note-make sure no nails are used anywhere blade may contact these strips

Use a piece of scrap molding that represents what your making on the mdf in between the top strips and set height of blades. read the height scale and mark this height right onto the mdf somewhere along with what your raw wood dimensions need to be. This info will help speed up repeat work.

I use spring clamps to hold template in place and I am good to go. I thickness plane all of my stock so that there is no chance of the raw wood binding up between the guide strips. Plus you should leave a space about a business cards width between guides and raw stock.

After your done you remove the template with all of its info and place the blades on it and into storage. I also write what job I made these moldings for on the template. I store mine in a blueprint drawer set.

In the one pic you will see I even have a template for two common moldings which are ground into the same blade. When I get long 3/4" x 3/4" scraps I quickly whip up some nose and cove or shoe to keep on hand. I have a roller set up which is in another post that i use to handle the long lengths coming out of the macine. Note - you will have to adjust your infeed and outfeed support rollers 3/4" higher than normal to account for the template thickness.

Its a great system because I never have to worry about dipping to low into the cast bed, second runs are easy as pie, and all the info i need is right on the template.


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## Rob Schramm (Jul 12, 2010)

How do you like that machine? I looked at it before buying the Woodmaster but I did not know if it had enough power for long use. I would like to find a used one for small runs on narrower stock.

Are you buying your stock from the home center or a mill? I get all my wood from a local mill. In fact I just started selling moldings to a few of the mills woodworkers. The mill gives me great discounts based on what all I buy.

Question about the machine that you have: How fast will it put on moldings and do you have adjustable speed?

Rob


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## shopman (Feb 14, 2013)

Rob,

It is probably my most favorite machine in my shop and has made me more money than any other stand alone machine. It is very powerful and I have had no service issues in the ten plus years I have had it.

My stock comes from a local lumber yard (not home center). There are two reasons for this. 1-the lumber yard keeps its lumber outside in covered bins which keeps a better moisture content for milling. Home stores get very dry lumber which chips a lot when milling. 2-Home center lumber is usually thinner than lumber yard stock. Its to the point now where 1x material is not even 3/4" but heading straight down towards 5/8"!

For paint grade molding work I only run poplar. I do not like to run finger joint material because it to is usually too thin and I dont want to have to plane 5/4" down just to get a full 3/4" which is what most moldings need. I NEVER run preprimed lumber. Did that once to save money by using left over material. The paint must have some kind of metal in it because a blade that can usually run 1000's of feet burned out at around 150'.

If you are to get this machine you MUST get the mutipass kit and the variable speed kit. I went for years without them and had some sketchy times with some larger oak profiles. The multipass and vari speed solved all these problems and I could not be happier.

I looked at the woodmaster but never ran one. How do you like it?

Take care,

John


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## Rob Schramm (Jul 12, 2010)

John,

I have 2 Woodmasters and love them. There is no double passes, 1 run and your done. Gary Striegler had a great class at Mark Adams School of Woodworking at the first of the month. I am taking another class with Gary in Sept at MASW which is going to go over more on the Woodmaster as well as building all types of interior projects (ie.. Fireplace mantles, wainscot and pilasters just to name a few things). Here is a link to the class:
Gary's Class
I too buy all my lumber from a local sawmill, I buy mostly basswood for moldings but do run knotty pine, clear pine, red pine and poplar. In the last couple of months I have been getting a lot of requests for moldings in other species (ie.. walnut, tulip, qs white and red oak). I am still trying to get my billing down on the majority of my specality species.

Rob


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