# Jig for an awkward cut



## SomeDudeOnline (Mar 21, 2018)

Hello all,

I'm not much of a jig person partially because of laziness and partially because I can usually make do without. However, I'd like to make some cuts that are a bit sketchy and would like to make it more safe. I've made these cuts in the past and it turned out alright, but I want to be safer. What I'm working on are Knights for a chess set.

The first picture below is the finished version of a knight that I've done in the past, the second picture is that same piece from the back, the third picture is the piece that I have ready to cut with some red lines added so that you can see roughly where I'd like to make the cuts, and the final picture is a sketch of the jig idea described below (my bandsaw blade isn't that big haha).

The way that I made these cuts in the past was by laying the piece on its side in the groove of a flat board and then held the piece in place while making the cut on the bandsaw. My idea for a jig would be to screw the piece to a small board (I used a screw chuck to turn the piece) and attach that board perpendicularly to another board (with the ball resting on that board). This seems like a decent enough plan to me but I figured if I'm going to make a jig, I should consult folks that are more accustomed to making jigs.


----------



## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

I once watched a guy at a woodworking show make chess pieces in a bandsaw demo. He cut the pieces on the saw and then turned them. He made the cuts such that he always had a flat to rest the workpiece on the table. He didn't use a jig of any sort.


----------



## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

I htink you could do that with just the left end of the "L" extended to either side of the work piece enough to hold onto and keep it level; maybe 3" ech side. You don't need the piece underneath.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

yomanbill said:


> I htink you could do that with just the left end of the "L" extended to either side of the work piece enough to hold onto and keep it level; maybe 3" ech side. *You don't need the piece underneath*.


I disagree. The piece underneath is the carrier support, like a sled. You don't want to "hang the workpiece" by a screw on the just back because the downward force of the teeth may cause it to vibrate and KABLOOEY, the entire thing will self destruct. The sled will end up with two saw kerfs on either side of the ball as shown by the red lines.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

SomeDudeOnline said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I'm not much of a jig person partially because of laziness and partially because I can usually make do without. However, I'd like to make some cuts that are a bit sketchy and would like to make it more safe. I've made these cuts in the past and it turned out alright, but I want to be safer. What I'm working on are Knights for a chess set.
> 
> ...


Turn you another one that is about a foot long. That would give you something to hold onto to bandsaw the top. Then when you get it all shaped and sanded cut it to it's finished length.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Steve Neul said:


> Turn you another one that is about a foot long. That would give you something to hold onto to bandsaw the top. Then when you get it all shaped and sanded cut it to it's finished length.


That may work, but the workpiece has a "ball end" kinda hard to make a series if them with that end on them. 
You CAN make them one at a time, if that's what you mean, but you still have the issue of support of a round object which may want to rotate when the blade isn't centered ?
It's hard to know his process for making them. Maybe chuck up a long round and shape the ball, cut it off and start on the next one.


----------



## yomanbill (Jul 7, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> I disagree. The piece underneath is the carrier support, like a sled. You don't want to "hang the workpiece" by a screw on the just back because the downward force of the teeth may cause it to vibrate and KABLOOEY, the entire thing will self destruct. The sled will end up with two saw kerfs on either side of the ball as shown by the red lines.


I'm not suggesting that it "hang". The work piece could ride on the saw table just as well as it could ride on the "sled".


----------



## SomeDudeOnline (Mar 21, 2018)

Steve Neul said:


> Turn you another one that is about a foot long. That would give you something to hold onto to bandsaw the top. Then when you get it all shaped and sanded cut it to it's finished length.


That’s not a bad idea but it would mean wasting the pieces I already made. I think it would also be a little extra tricky to turn the ball properly (for me).


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

SomeDudeOnline said:


> That’s not a bad idea but it would mean wasting the pieces I already made. I think it would also be a little extra tricky to turn the ball properly (for me).


If you didn't mind a hole in the bottom of your pieces you could screw a board to the bottom to hold it so you could bandsaw the top. With the board perpendicular to the part it would help keep the cuts parallel with each other.


----------



## builtinbkyn2 (3 mo ago)

The nice thing about a bandsaw is all the forces are traveling down and forcing the work piece into the table. Maybe just make a thicker fixture to cradle the head being cut. I guess you can also make a relief for the base as well to keep things stable.


----------



## builtinbkyn2 (3 mo ago)

Just a thought since this is a turned piece. When you turn them leave a longish section that's still square so it can rest flush on the table and long enough so you can push it thru the blade with your hands away.

Edit: Just read Steve's reply above. That's what I suggested here and certainly the easiest way to go about this.


----------



## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

All good ideas but I a bandsaw?

I would use a handsaw, specifically a Japanese dozuki. If you don’t own one, buy one today 😁. 

That said, I might do this with a chisel. You are paring downhill grain, lay the piece with head against a stop.

Another way to do it is a belt sander.

With all 3 of these, I would do what you suggested about screwing to larger piece of wood you can stabilize or clamp.


----------



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

SomeDudeOnline said:


> That’s not a bad idea but it would mean wasting the pieces I already made. I think it would also be a little extra tricky to turn the ball properly (for me).


Rather than use a large piece of “good” stock, I frequently glue a piece of “good” stock to a piece of sacrificial wood; sandwiching a piece of brown paper in-between. I do this when using exotics to reduce waste. The joint separates relatively easily when the job is done and the residual paper can be sanded off. You could still do this to ones you’ve already made and glue a support piece under the ball if necessary. It doesn’t have to be a ton of glue.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Quickstep said:


> Rather than use a large piece of “good” stock, I frequently glue a piece of “good” stock to a piece of sacrificial wood; sandwiching a piece of brown paper in-between. I do this when using exotics to reduce waste. The joint separates relatively easily when the job is done and the residual paper can be sanded off. You could still do this to ones you’ve already made and glue a support piece under the ball if necessary. It doesn’t have to be a ton of glue.


We did this when turning bowls in college and it does work as described!
In this case I would use square stock of the same OD, so the bandsaw will cut 90 degrees on either side of center.


----------



## SomeDudeOnline (Mar 21, 2018)

Steve Neul said:


> If you didn't mind a hole in the bottom of your pieces you could screw a board to the bottom to hold it so you could bandsaw the top. With the board perpendicular to the part it would help keep the cuts parallel with each other.


Can you elaborate on this? I'm not sure how it's different than my sketch.



builtinbkyn2 said:


> The nice thing about a bandsaw is all the forces are traveling down and forcing the work piece into the table. Maybe just make a thicker fixture to cradle the head being cut. I guess you can also make a relief for the base as well to keep things stable.
> 
> View attachment 445096


I definitely like this idea for added stability. Would you just carve that out with a dremel?



Quickstep said:


> Rather than use a large piece of “good” stock, I frequently glue a piece of “good” stock to a piece of sacrificial wood; sandwiching a piece of brown paper in-between. I do this when using exotics to reduce waste. The joint separates relatively easily when the job is done and the residual paper can be sanded off. You could still do this to ones you’ve already made and glue a support piece under the ball if necessary. It doesn’t have to be a ton of glue.


That's a handy tip. However, I'm leaning toward the screw idea though since it's more easily repeatable (just thread the piece on and go).



DrRobert said:


> All good ideas but I a bandsaw?
> 
> I would use a handsaw, specifically a Japanese dozuki. If you don’t own one, buy one today 😁.
> 
> ...


I like the bandsaw because it's quick and I'm familiar with it (especially if I'm going to be making the jig anyway). I'm familiar with the belt sander too but anytime I try to use the belt sander for something like this, I manage to screw up the angle or go too far.


----------



## builtinbkyn2 (3 mo ago)

SomeDudeOnline said:


> Can you elaborate on this? I'm not sure how it's different than my sketch.
> 
> 
> I definitely like this idea for added stability. Would you just carve that out with a dremel?
> ...


Use a Forstner bit for the round end (head). This needs to be smaller so the round end (head) is elevated and level with the table. Then make a slot for the base end. A few drill holes connected with a file keyhole saw will make that. Then if needed, carve out some area for the funnel shape. If your bandsaw table doesn't tilt or if you just want to make plumb cuts, you'll need to finish the head with files/rasps/sandpaper/etc.


----------



## SomeDudeOnline (Mar 21, 2018)

builtinbkyn2 said:


> Use a Forstner bit for the round end (head). This needs to be smaller so the round end (head) is elevated and level with the table. Then make a slot for the base end. A few drill holes connected with a file keyhole saw will make that. Then if needed, carve out some area for the funnel shape. If your bandsaw table doesn't tilt or if you just want to make plumb cuts, you'll need to finish the head with files/rasps/sandpaper/etc.


I see, I see. Thanks!


----------



## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

SomeDudeOnline said:


> My idea for a jig would be to screw the piece to a small board (I used a screw chuck to turn the piece) and attach that board perpendicularly to another board (with the ball resting on that board).


Similar to this? (which may need support block under the "ball" portion depending on the diameter of the base portion of the chess piece).









As I understand it, this fixture above, is only the 1st half of an entire "jig". This fixture does nothing more than hold the work piece for free hand cutting on the bandsaw.
If you are making multiples and want repetitive results, there needs to be a way to index the fixture angle to angle and maintain a known relationship to the bandsaw blade.
Thus your work holding fixture could be set on top of a sled base, that is guided using the miter slot in the bandsaw table. Dowels or stop blocks in the sled will locate the holding fixture in either position "a" or position "b" for repeatable results.

Red line indicates blade path.
Tan rectangle is guide rail on bottom surface of the sled to engage miter slot in saw table.


----------



## SomeDudeOnline (Mar 21, 2018)

Dave McCann said:


> Similar to this? (which may need support block under the "ball" portion depending on the diameter of the base portion of the chess piece).
> View attachment 445111
> 
> 
> ...


That is smart. I was just thinking I'd use the initial cuts I make that also cut the base as guides for future cuts. I think I might make this sled though. Thank you!


----------



## builtinbkyn2 (3 mo ago)

I know we all must be careful and work safely around power tools and machines, but has anyone ever watched how Sam Maloof used to freehand with a bandsaw or router?  If you haven't, it's worth watching a video. The man worked into his 90s and still had all his digits.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

SomeDudeOnline said:


> Can you elaborate on this? I'm not sure how it's different than my sketch.
> 
> 
> I definitely like this idea for added stability. Would you just carve that out with a dremel?
> ...


My scanner isn't working so I can't post a sketch. For example lets say your part is 1 1/2" in diameter at the bottom. Just screw a piece of wood 3/4"x 1 1/2" wood to the bottom of it making a T shape. This would hold the part for you as well as holding the part where you could cut both sides and have both cuts parallel with each other.


----------



## jdonhowe (Jul 25, 2014)

I could easily be missing something obvious, but could you form the head with your bandsaw _before_ turning the base? You could make a tapered jam chuck to wedge the knight head into (base toward the tailstock), or leave extra material at the base and mount with a worm screw.


----------



## SomeDudeOnline (Mar 21, 2018)

jdonhowe said:


> I could easily be missing something obvious, but could you form the head with your bandsaw _before_ turning the base? You could make a tapered jam chuck to wedge the knight head into (base toward the tailstock), or leave extra material at the base and mount with a worm screw.


That... is probably the way to go in the future. I hadn't considered that because when I turn things on the lathe, the first thing I do is get a nice round surface and making the cuts first would leave me with two surfaces. I've avoided things like this in the past because it makes the turning a little scarier but I think I'm comfortable/familiar enough with the lathe now to give that a shot next time I do a pair of knights.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Turn the round first and you'll have no tearout . If you cut the sides first the gouge may jump around and it will prbably leave tear out.
The solutions we have provided will work, and they are safe. Stick with Plan A ....


----------



## Olwoodguy (1 mo ago)

woodnthings said:


> That may work, but the workpiece has a "ball end" kinda hard to make a series if them with that end on them.
> You CAN make them one at a time, if that's what you mean, but you still have the issue of support of a round object which may want to rotate when the blade isn't centered ?
> It's hard to know his process for making them. Maybe chuck up a long round and shape the ball, cut it off and start on the next one.


I would use a 1/8" paring tool to indicate the length of each piece. Round the top into it. Cut the belly out. Using a sander you could cut the top bevels in. Mark your edges. Good luck.


----------

