# Advice Needed - BT3100



## jrh77 (Jan 26, 2011)

Hi all, first time poster here, and complete woodworking newbie! I've been searching the forums, looking for as much insight on the Ryobi BT3100 as I can find.
I found a used BT3100 available, and I have to make the decision today in order to get it before the next person in line takes it. It's approximately 4 years old (he thinks) and claims it's in like new condition, used very little. He was asking 250 but will take 175. I just need to know if you think this is a reasonable price for a 3100? I don't have a lot more specifics. I'm going to look at the saw in a few hours and looking for ANY advice you can give! Thanks so much in advance.


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## MattS (Feb 17, 2010)

I have no experience with Ryobi saws, but here's a link for those reading this who like to get an eye on what you are talking about;
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bt3100rvu.html


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

They aren't your typical table saw, the tops are a little less deep, they have a sliding miter table, and a universal motor, I own one, and love it. I would rather have this than say an old cast iron topped contractor saw. BUT... Would gladly give it up for a full on cast iron topped cabinet saw with a riving knife like a Grizzly G0691 (which is WAY out of my price range at this point). For me, the sliding miter table, and riving knife (HUGE safety improvement) far outweigh the added mass and deeper top of a traditional contractor saw. A lot of folks will disagree and that's fine...

For $175.00, if it is like new shape, that is one heck of a saw, and well worth every penny and then some!


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## jrh77 (Jan 26, 2011)

Thanks for the advice so far! I was either looking at entry level...120 dollar saws at Home Depot or something used like this, which I thought was a big step up. I just wanted to get the thoughts of those of you out there with experience and more knowledge then I possess!


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Mind you, the BT3x00 series saws are NOT your average table saw. There are no miter slots (it uses a sliding miter table instead), the fence clamps both front AND rear rails unlike a fence like a Biese which clamps the front only, the top is aluminum meaning less mass than a cast iron saw, and it uses a universal motor, meaning it's LOUD... 

On the plus side, it has a riving knife, which means radically reduced chances of kickback, and the sliding miter table means not having to build a crosscut sled, the wide array of accessories include miter slot tables, router mount kit with fences, wide tables and legs to increase crosscut capacity to 72", mobile bases, outfeed tables etc... 

Mind you, I have a SERIOUS case of table saw lust for a Grizzly G0691, or a SawStop 3HP PCS, but even the Grizzly is out of my price league at this point... Traditional cast iron contractor saws can be pretty nice, but I used one for a while, and the difference in kickback incidence is stunning, especially with the blade low and close to the table. I am big time sold on the safety of a riving knife, and simply won't have a table saw without one.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi

I have a BT3100 and find that it is an excellent saw for what it is -- entry level, starter saw. How much mileage you get out of it depends upon what you what to accomplish and how fast you progress in this hobby/obsession. 

You can get a fair number of accessories for this saw -- extra table wings, miter slots, etc. Check out the BT3 Central Forum for lots more on this saw: http://www.bt3central.com/

If the saw is as good as the seller makes it to be, $175 is more than a fair price and much better than anything you can currently get at Home Depot or Lowes (IMHO)

Good luck and happy hunting.

Greg


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

If it's in really good shape, I'd take a shot for $175. Not much financial downside if you decide it's not for you. The parts have to be worth close to that...maybe more.


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## Kirkus (Dec 19, 2010)

Funny how we're all different. I bought a used BT3100 when I decided to get back into woodworking and didn't have much money. I hated it. I quickly discovered that I didn't like not have miter slots. I'd much rather build my own sleds/jigs rather than paying a lot of money for Ryobi's. I was unhappy with the frequency in which I had to release and rescrew the miter table rather than quickly grabbing the miter gauge. Maybe it was my particular saw, but it seemed like I was always readjusting something to keep the cuts square. And lastly, I think I have permanent dents in my hips from banging into the front end of the miter table.

It didn't take me long to sell it and buy an old cast iron topped contractor saw.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Kirkus said:


> Funny how we're all different. I bought a used BT3100 when I decided to get back into woodworking and didn't have much money. I hated it. I quickly discovered that I didn't like not have miter slots. I'd much rather build my own sleds/jigs rather than paying a lot of money for Ryobi's. I was unhappy with the frequency in which I had to release and rescrew the miter table rather than quickly grabbing the miter gauge. Maybe it was my particular saw, but it seemed like I was always readjusting something to keep the cuts square. And lastly, I think I have permanent dents in my hips from banging into the front end of the miter table.
> 
> It didn't take me long to sell it and buy an old cast iron topped contractor saw.


It's not just the BTs, you either love, or you hate sliding miter tables. I love mine, but to be honest, I added the miter slot accessories to my saw as well... As you can see I have the miter slot accessories on either side of the main table, and I have lined them up to the blade (a TEDIOUS procedure by the way, a lot of guys say impossible, but it's not...). There are a TON of jigs out there based on the fence instead of miter slots, which is what most BT and Craftsman clone users do. The forum at www.bt3central.com is probably the most useful place for info on these saws... 

If I were to get a cabinet saw, I would most likely upgrade to a Grizzly G0691, and add their sliding miter table to it just to get back the features I am used to having...

Not sure what you mean by release and rescrew the miter table. You are supposed to leave it on the saw. Now the fence is another story... 

No issues with keeping things square once it is set here. I have heard of a few lemons, but then again, I have heard of a few bad Sawstops as well... Most of the duds can be traced to misadjusted, or bad threads in the head clamper assembly on the rip fence. A fairly easy fix. Again, BT3Central members have that info.

Anyway here is a detail pic of mine...









And another shot showing the entire table saw rig.









Not counting the Shark Guard, which is my second, the saw came with one, but I upgraded to a new one with a 4" port instead of the smaller 2" model I had previously, and the wide table legs, and of course the shop built wide table top, the saw is as I bought it. Extra rails, mobile base, router kit, regular, dado, and a stack of zero clearance throat plates. The switch was relocated to the far left of the rail just past the SMT. I paid $200.00 for mine, which wasn't bad considering the extras. 

Hopefully by now you have snatched that saw up. It's a good one..

If you do get this saw, go to www.bt3central.com and send a private message to user LCHIEN with your email address asking him for a copy of his BT3K FAQ sheet. There is more info on that saw than you will ever want to know there, and it is frequently updated...


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## Kirkus (Dec 19, 2010)

The one I had was the older model. It was first bought in '98. And being "used", no one knows if it was cared for or abused. That could explain why I couldn't keep it square.

There's that little sliding lock on the front of the sliding table that's held in place by a phillips-head screw. It slides down into that little slot in the track to lock the table in place. That's what I meant by "release and rescrew" the sliding table.

I didn't mean to dis' the saw as much as I did. I think my biggest complaint was that _I_ wasn't used to that style of saw. I'd done all my learning on a cabinet saw with miter slots.

Your set up looks sweet! If jrh ended up buying that BT3100 for $175, I'd say he got a good deal, indeed.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Kirkus said:


> Funny how we're all different. I bought a used BT3100 when I decided to get back into woodworking and didn't have much money. I hated it. I quickly discovered that I didn't like not have miter slots. I'd much rather build my own sleds/jigs rather than paying a lot of money for Ryobi's. I was unhappy with the frequency in which I had to release and rescrew the miter table rather than quickly grabbing the miter gauge. Maybe it was my particular saw, but it seemed like I was always readjusting something to keep the cuts square. And lastly, I think I have permanent dents in my hips from banging into the front end of the miter table.
> 
> It didn't take me long to sell it and buy an old cast iron topped contractor saw.


I don't have a BT3x00, but I do have the sliding table on my Craftsman. It requires constant adjustment, and there is considerable side to side play. I don't know if the Ryobis are the same. I have to square it up and be very careful to push it slowly forward to get a somewhat satisfactory cut. The rip fence is accurate, so I ended up buying a miter saw for accurate crosscuts.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

cheese9998, what model is your Craftsman? Most likely 22811 or 21829. The 21829 uses a different SMT, similar, but different... The 22811 I believe is just a BT3000 with some minor cosmetic tweaks... (MUCH nicer elevation handle for one). The Sliding Miter Tables on all of these can get sloppy as the nylon guides wear. There are adjustments for that, which are covered in the owners manual. Likewise the BT3K FAQ that Loring (LCHIEN) at BT3Central.com has covers a good amount of this material, particularly regarding the sliding miter table.


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

dbhost said:


> cheese9998, what model is your Craftsman? Most likely 22811 or 21829. The 21829 uses a different SMT, similar, but different... The 22811 I believe is just a BT3000 with some minor cosmetic tweaks... (MUCH nicer elevation handle for one). The Sliding Miter Tables on all of these can get sloppy as the nylon guides wear. There are adjustments for that, which are covered in the owners manual. Likewise the BT3K FAQ that Loring (LCHIEN) at BT3Central.com has covers a good amount of this material, particularly regarding the sliding miter table.


Sorry, just read this, its a 315.218060.


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