# Rabbeting back of a bookcase



## fiirmoth (Dec 26, 2011)

I have the sides and shelves done, getting ready to do the back. I was planning on using 3/4 plywood for the back and rabbeting down the sides and for each shelf. However, the more I look I dont see this done anywhere. Usually its just 1/4 or ply as the back. Is there some reason NOT to do it my way? Seems like it would strengthen the whole thing. This whole bookcase is pine plywood btw if it matters. Thanks for the help


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

fiirmoth said:


> I have the sides and shelves done, getting ready to do the back. I was planning on using 3/4 plywood for the back and rabbeting down the sides and for each shelf. However, the more I look I dont see this done anywhere. Usually its just 1/4 or ply as the back. Is there some reason NOT to do it my way? Seems like it would strengthen the whole thing. This whole bookcase is pine plywood btw if it matters. Thanks for the help


That's not usually done. The sides are dadoed for the shelves. The back edge is rabbeted to accept 1/4" plywood. I make that rabbet 1/4" x whatever depth you want to recess the back (the shelves have to be cut to that depth). I would finish the cabinet with the shelves installed, and the back loose. After finishing, install the back with staples, and staple across for each shelf.









 







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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Aside from the cost and trouble and weight there is no reason you can't do that. I think it is very unnecessary. A 1/4" plywood back is more than sufficient. If you are worried about the shelves pulling loose from the back you can put some 1" or 1 1/4" drywall screws into the shelves to supplement the staples.


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## sawdust55109 (Mar 18, 2012)

I guess it would depend on the overall construction. I don't see why you couldn't. I built mine with a 1/4 back and a rabbit on each side.
Its a knockdown bookcase and it was just easier with a 1/4" back.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/43205


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