# Getting my first router?



## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

What do you guys think about this craftsman router set?
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-12-a...a=00927683000P&kpid=00927683000&mktRedirect=y
I was also going to get the router table for it as well.
http://www.sears.com/die-cast-aluminum-router-table/p-00937596000P
I have a small shop I'm working on building so everything I get has to be small and portable. 
Any input you Guys could give me would be greatly appreciated. 
I am new to woodworking as well. I am more power tool oriented.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Look at the 27680 from craftsman. It's a better router and a better price.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

By the way....I have 3 of that set and love them...best router for the money in my opinion.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

I don't know why the prices are what they are online. In the store the one I gave a link for is $119. But I will look into the professional one you suggested. Thanks.


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

I have two of the Bosch combos...love them.
189.00 on Amazon.. Can be found cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423948409&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+router


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Raq

As far as routers go. They all are about the same unless your comparing routers in a different dollar amount or hp. It may be your first and you want it to do all end all but it won't. 

You need to "invest" in a router combo. Fixed base plunge base. It will cost you more but buying the two together get you the best price. There are more after market add on's made for Porter Cable than any other router but with the others building theirs on the same sizes and all. It's not as important as it used to be.

Start out right. Don't buy on price if the difference is only a few dollars. Porter Cable, Bosch or DeWalt would be your best bet as they are the standard by which many are set by. The Craftsman is probably going to have an enticing price and some models will be okay too. 

Never buy a router table. They are just too easy to build yourself and they are so much better. A sink cutout clamped to your bench with a router in it is better than the aluminum units sold today. Besides, your going to learn something building your own that will help you along. Google router table shop built and you will find one your comfortable with. Also it won't be your last. 

Good luck think big

Al B Thayer


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

Agree with Al about the router table and brands of routers. Make your own table and it will work for you. I could own a DeWalt or PC router combo and most likely be just as happy. But since I have had the Bosch for awhile now I will vouch for them. Plus they have the cool wooden handles!


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

The craftsman router combo is fantastic. I'm on my second one actually, but that's only because the first was stolen. Ive yet to find anything that can be done in a home shop that it can't do. For what you get for what you pay I'm pretty confident saying the craftsman ones set the best price/performance ratio you can get to start off with. 

I'd skip the table though. Ive never seen a commercially made table that costs less and worked better than just screwing the router to the underside of a piece of plywood. Make your own, or, if space is a concert, build a table into the extension wing of your table saw


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

raqumup said:


> What do you guys think about this craftsman router set?
> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-12-a...a=00927683000P&kpid=00927683000&mktRedirect=y
> I was also going to get the router table for it as well.
> http://www.sears.com/die-cast-aluminum-router-table/p-00937596000P
> ...








I have that router currently, just got it last summer. Its a nice workhorse for a mid-sized router. I really dont have anything negative to say about it.

I got mine when sears was having a sale for $89. The regular price is still a good deal.


As for the table, as was mentioned build your own. Youll get a more quality unit and exactly what you want, not to mention youll be WW'ing.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

mengtian said:


> Agree with Al about the router table and brands of routers. Make your own table and it will work for you. I could own a DeWalt or PC router combo and most likely be just as happy. But since I have had the Bosch for awhile now I will vouch for them. Plus they have the cool wooden handles!


Those do have the coolest wood handles.

Al


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Thanks guys. All of you responses are great. I will definitely take all of your advise on the router table. Seems everyone can agree on that. Good idea epicfail48. I just may have to do your table saw idea. That will defiantly keep its size down. Still not sure what router I will get but I will look into all the ones you guys suggested. 
Thanks again.


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

Routers are very versatile tools but be careful, they can be addictive. The only suggestion I have is to buy 1/2" shank bits whenever you can, they vibrate less and cut smoother.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Last I remember the Craftsman router didn't fair to well in router tables. Maybe they have changed there design since then?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The old craftsman models (7-8 years or more) didn't do well in tables, the current ones are great in tables. The fixed bases include above the table adjustments.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Installing a router in a table saw seems like a good idea but the TS height is far too low. Your going to spend a lot of time in setup and bent over the table will leave you at a disadvantage. The router table should be the tallest in your shop and works best somewhere close to your elbow height. If you can't put it on its own stand. A bench model will come out to the correct height if you clamp it to your bench. 

Al


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If you have room for a floor standing table, I have plans in the project showcase forum for this table. Which one of these days I'll get around to finishing.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

What do you guys think about this?
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618P...423971029&sr=8-3&keywords=routers+woodworking
I like it because it has a case to keep it in, just helps keep stuff neat and in its place


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

I wish I did man. That's a nice table


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

raqumup said:


> What do you guys think about this?
> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618P...423971029&sr=8-3&keywords=routers+woodworking
> I like it because it has a case to keep it in, just helps keep stuff neat and in its place





So one of the things that's annoying about that one to me is the motor rotates to adjust the height. Most other modern routers today have a "lift" mechanism built in for height adjustment.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

raqumup said:


> I wish I did man. That's a nice table



Thanks man!! It's got the craftsman 27680 router in it, however to be fair it is in a Jessem lift instead of the regular base.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

raqumup said:


> What do you guys think about this?
> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618P...423971029&sr=8-3&keywords=routers+woodworking
> I like it because it has a case to keep it in, just helps keep stuff neat and in its place


I still say go with the craftsman. Ive never been a fan of those screw body designs


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Ok guys. I think i am going with the craftsman router set. Not sure if I will get the professional one or not. I believe it's a difference of about $50. Next question. This is my plan for my router table. This is the work bench I built. 





















The 4 pegs lock the top to the base. I was just going to make an entire top dedicated to the router and my hand jig saw. Saw some cool ideas to mount a jig saw under it just like the router. Anyway, what should I make the top out of. I have 2 4X4 sheets of 3/4 MDF or should I go with plywood? If you can tell in the pictures my current top is 2, 3/4 cabinet grade plywood. I have also drilled 4 holes in my workbench to lock my sliding chop saw to it. (Not pictured). I'm trying my best to keep my stuff small and portable. I figured one day I will need a big surface to do routing on and I already have the bench legs built.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Make the top out of two thicknesses of 3/4 MDF, and then get some formica for the top of it. Perfectly flat, and easy to make


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

raqumup said:


> Ok guys. I think i am going with the craftsman router set. Not sure if I will get the professional one or not. I believe it's a difference of about $50. .



If I recall correctly....the pro gets you half a hp more, a longer disconnectable cord, a really nice bag case, and in my opinion a slightly nicer plunge base.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

So I got the professional one. $180 with taxes


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Are you recommending the Formica just to protect the top? From water? I know MDF sucks up water like a sponge and gets fat like one too. Formica is expensive. For the same price I can get another cabinet grade sheet of 4X8 3/4 ply wood


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

formica is more durable than any wood surface, it has low friction and yes, it protects from moisture. You actually want to cover top and bottom with it to prevent warping. Any sort of router table or outfeed table or whatever else you want that needs to be dead flat will likely be built of 1.5" MDF and formica laminate.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Formica is cheap if you don't care what color. Even if you do lowes has 4x8 sheets of white for 40 bucks or so


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Oh ok. Well that's better than what I saw on the Internet. I don't know if you guys know about the trick to seal the sides of MDF or not. You use 3 parts water and 1 part wood glue and paint it on then ends. 2 coats and it won't suck up paint. I built a overhead cabinet for my snap-on tool box at work for my books. I took a part of my toolbox to Home Depot and they color matched it, got matching handles and the snap-on emblem from snap on. Most people think I got it from snap-on.
Starting to work on table top design. I noticed the store bought ones have a miter slot going from left to right. Some of the built ones have either T rails or 2 miter slots going front to back. What do you Guys think would be they way to go?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The front to back ones are to attach a fence. The right to left Is to use a miter gauge or sled.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Here's white at lowes...

http://m.lowes.com/pd/Formica-Brand...tte-Laminate-Kitchen-Countertop-Sheet/4321914


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If you live near a menards and don't care the color....(most are fake stone) then here it is for 11 bucks...enough to do both sides. 

http://www.menards.com/main/mobile/p-2704634-c-3629.htm


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Yea I don't care about the color and I am looking at picture of ones people have built, I see most of them have both tracks. No minards near unfortunately. Question. The table is going to be about 2ft X 4ft. Should I put the router in the center or push it back some?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Depends on how you intend to use it....mines pretty close to centered. If you are interested, I have a plan in my router table build thread for the top laid out.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Sure that would great. I would defiantly like to see something with detentions that has been tested. You can't beat that.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

raqumup said:


> Sure that would great. I would defiantly like to see something with detentions that has been tested. You can't beat that.



Here ya are...

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/showthread.php?t=59227


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

raqumup said:


> Yea I don't care about the color and I am looking at picture of ones people have built, I see most of them have both tracks. No minards near unfortunately. Question. The table is going to be about 2ft X 4ft. Should I put the router in the center or push it back some?


I would not center it, feed direction of a router is non-directional, sometimes more table between you and the bit is better, other times you may want to be closer to it.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Hang on....feed direction of a router absolutely is directional. On a table in front of the bit feed direction is always right to left...


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Does your fence have adjustment back and forth? Not the slides in the table, I mean let's say you were using it as a jointer and you took off a 1/16 inch. The second fence would be 1/16th closer to the front of the table correct? If I am correct about this, how do you achieve this adjustment in the fence?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

You can use a shim behind the left side fence face.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Got it. That makes sense. Once I finish my design on paper. I'll post pics. Would you mind giving me feedback on it, if I should change anything?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Absolutely. Post it up when you get it done.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

raqumup said:


> Got it. That makes sense. Once I finish my design on paper. I'll post pics. Would you mind giving me feedback on it, if I should change anything?


You'll get feedback, no question about that. You'll get feedback about the plans, you'll get advise on building it, you'll get advise on rebuilding it because you took the feedback on building it and messed up because that feedback didnt agree with this feedback, you get feedback on the lighting of this photos, you'll get critiques on how your tools are arranged in the background and once the feedback finally drives you crazy you'll get feedback on how you hung the noose.

I love this place


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*that's too deep*



raqumup said:


> Yea I don't care about the color and I am looking at picture of ones people have built, I see most of them have both tracks. No minards near unfortunately. Question. The table is going to be about 2ft X 4ft. Should I put the router in the center or push it back some?


24" wide/deep is too much in my opinion. There is nothing going on behind the bit except dust collection, so no need to have a lot of wasted space behind it. I think an 18"or 20" wide table with the router located 6" from the rear would work better.

Here's mine:











Feed direction is always right to left. :yes: See the direction of the fingers on the hold down? They only allow feeding right to left.

I would incorporate a T track or miter slot near the front edge of the table. It's nice for running a sled to hold rails for end routing and other smaller workpieces.
A 2 piece fence that's adjustable to allow for larger or smaller diameter bits and keep the dust port small is good....more T tracks. 

You can anchor the fence at the left end OR make slots
at either end. Micro adjustments in the amount the fence is away from the cutter can be made with a bolt in a slot or hole and pivot at the other end, real handy.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If you want to use the table to cut dados, you need be ability to move the fence back. If you're only doing edge profiles than sure the bit can be back further.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

^^^ yeah you also get feedback if you hold the mic too close to the amplifier lol


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Yep, someone will even tell you it's a PIECE OF S--t, IF IT IS SUCH, hehe. 

Dale in Indy


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

I understand what you mean about wasted space but the router table top is going to the workbench base I already have. I just have to decide where to put the router. Then top im building is 2ft X 4ft. Was thinking of putting it right in the middle. Then it won't be too much table int he front but also thinking maybe I should put it back some so I have more table to hold larger projects. I will play with my drawings and see what happens. Hard finding time to work on my plans. When I get them done I'll post them. Thanks for all the advice so far.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Ok. The first one I took my time with to try and lay it out as close to scale as I could without graph paper. Second one I just traced from the first one. 














For the miter track thinking of going with this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00153JTLM...UTF8&colid=CGJNA5808HP3&coliid=I17PE7FIPT75W0
I measured and I can use my miter that came with my table saw. 
Do you guys have any recommendations with links for a t track?
I have looked and found several. Some come with hardware (bolts and screw knobs) but most review say the hardware is junk.
Please give good and bad feedback on my table design. I know it's big but as I said in my previous post. I want make it fit my existing table base. 
Thanks in advance


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I think the bit is too far back to be easy to reach.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> I think the bit is too far back to be easy to reach.


Agreed. The middle is a horrible place to put the router. For one, whenever you need to use the router you havea foot between you and the bit. Doesnt sound like much, but its still a bit far to reach. Beyond ergonomics though, in order to mount the router in the middle of the table, you have to cut a hole in the middle of the table (profound statement, i know!). Doing that weakens the middle of the table by a fair bit, and itll probably sag under the weight of the router over time. That would be a bad thing

I can understand the desire to try and save space by making a work bench thats also a stand for multiple tools, but honestly, its a bad idea. A workbench really needs to be its own thing. Id give some extra though to maing a dedicated router table, preferably a collapsable benchtop one. That way, you get the portability you were wanting without having to sacrifice the entire bench. 

And before i seem like too much of a jerk, i tried the do-it-all bench myself. I had a big 4x8' workbench-outeed-planer-miter saw stand that i thought was a great idea because i had a small shop and wanted a huge work area. It was horrible. To use it as an outfeed table, i had to clear everything off of it, and then i had to heave the planer back up to thickness stock, and then i had to run around to use the miter saw, and then id realize i forgot to cut a piece and clear everything off to use the table saw again, and then id have to set up the miter saw again, and then i had to shove everything off again to use it for assembly, and then i had to walk around the giant table because i left my hammer on the other side, and then id have to shove everything off because i need to cut a new leg because when i walked around to grab the hammer i knocked the chair i was building off and broke a leg. 

I took a circular saw to that bloody thing and built a nice 3x3 torsion box. Now, all my tools are on their own stands and i have a nice, dedicated assembly table, and im much happier or it


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

I think for your very first top it's a good idea to look at what Rockler has to offer. For the price of materials and your time you can get a feel for someones take on it and later on, after some experience you can design one that best suits your preferences. And those are preferences you simply don't have in the beginning. I also urge the use of a router lift plate as others have suggested. Much easier than reaching under the table to make fine adjustments. Someone mentioned the ability to offset the left and right side of the fence for jointing purposes and most commercial fences incorporate that feature, but in my opinion that's where they fall short. I do like being able to adjust the opening between fence wings to allow for proper dust collection around the bit and maintain good contact between my workpiece and the fence.

On a final note. I have limited floor space and as not all my tools are used on all projects I sized several workstations, including my router table, to roll under one of the work counters. One cabinet has a flip over top, picture the Green Hornet from the 60's TV show where the car flips over in the garage floor, so the portable planer bench can be used as a worktop when the planer is not needed. My grinder shares a cabinet with my small combo disk/belt sander in the same way. Except for larger stationary tools, everything else slips away under a counter or workbench so floor space can be cleared quickly. It's an idea I picked up from a special issue by Fine Woodworking on shops and workspaces. There is also a plan I know of from Woodsmith where a router station flips down and is mounted to a wall to save space. I opted away from that style based on my needs but perhaps that's a design you might find useful.


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I have a different viewpoint (I respect yours, everyone is a tad different). I was going to buy a Rockler or other top but then decided I wanted to hone my skills and by making the table I was learning how to use my router and other tools. I made my own template and routed the insert out, put in the tracks and made my fence and cabinet.

For me...I thought it was worth it. The price was about the same or cheaper than a store bought one and I felt pride in what I made. Plus, yo make the top to the size you want.

Anyhoo, either way works, just depends on the individual.
BTW: The lift in the table now was not the first one. I had a Kreg insert


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Mengtian, I see your fence guides go all the way to the miter slots. Have you actually used that part of the track? Or was that just the length of track you got and just decided to use it all?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Well I'd like to appeal to the OP for a much simpler first table. This one isn't going to be your last one no mater how many bells and whistles you incorporate into it. 

Best off if you skip the t slots for the fence. It's much easier to just hang the fence over the top and put clamps on the fence that clamp to the table. It makes for easier micro adjustments. Which you will do almost every setup. Most times you will only have to move one end of the fence. Split fences also can be a problem if they aren't one of the better made type. 









This fence is easy to build and has the adjustable throat like Woodenhorse was referring to. Which is something your going to use more than a split fence. 

Also, save from cutting a miter slot until you actually need it. You may find out you don't and will have saved the money. It can always be added and there are methods you can use and never need a miter slot. 

One more idea I have learned from building and using router tables is they can be a little narrower than most but should be longer than most also. Most of the work done on them is with a long narrow board.


Al


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I mis-spoke here*



woodnthings said:


> I would incorporate a T track or miter slot near the front edge of the table. It's nice for running a sled to hold rails for end routing and other smaller workpieces.
> A *2 piece fence* that's adjustable to allow for larger or smaller diameter bits and keep the dust port small is good....more T tracks.


I did NOT mean a 2 piece fence, I meant a 1 piece fence with an adjustable throat which is what I have. DUH. :furious:
I bevel the leading edge of the rear piece so the work doesn't get hung up on it. It's nice to close down the opening easily for the best support and dust collection. 

All this can be shop built, but you may need a router table to build a router table. Just like you need a workbench to build a workbench. :huh:


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

raqumup said:


> Mengtian, I see your fence guides go all the way to the miter slots. Have you actually used that part of the track? Or was that just the length of track you got and just decided to use it all?


Just was easier to install. It serves no real purpose to have go all the way to the miter track. 

The post that Al put in is the plans I used for my cabinet. I made the fence my own way for several different reasons. I was going to make the one on the pic.


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## mengtian (Nov 8, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> I did NOT mean a 2 piece fence, I meant a 1 piece fence with an adjustable throat which is what I have. DUH. :furious:
> I bevel the leading edge of the rear piece so the work doesn't get hung up on it. It's nice to close down the opening easily for the best support and dust collection.
> 
> All this can be shop built, but you may need a router table to build a router table. Just like you need a workbench to build a workbench. :huh:


When I built my router table and cabinet I did not need a router table...just the router.
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/303/routertable.pdf4


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I built my router table without needing a router table....not sure what I'd have needed one for to complete it.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

So I have not built it yet, I am taking pieces of everyone's advice. I think I have decided to build the top that fits my existing workbench base. I know what one of you were saying about having to move everything anytime you need to switch tools if you have a all in one work bench and I can appreciate that. I am going to do it anyway because if I really do run into this and it becomes an issue I will just build more collapsible table bases and then no more issue. I'll just make each base work with each top. My next question is I have this sweet router now but no bits. I have never really used a router before and want to get some bits. Based on the suggestions on the net, seems 1/2 shank is more stable and seems to be, if you can get it in a 1/2 go with that, also I see there are tons of different quality bits as well. I definitely don't want to go with the cheapest thing I can find and I don't want to take a second mortgage for the top quality. I'm looking for a nice average starter set. What would you guys recommend?
I was thinking of getting this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S...=UTF8&colid=CGJNA5808HP3&coliid=IVSP3B4BSKB51


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

You could do that.....or buy the bits as you need them. If you plan ahead, you can find top quality Whiteside or Freud bits on Ebay fairly cheap.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

raqumup said:


> So I have not built it yet, I am taking pieces of everyone's advice. I think I have decided to build the top that fits my existing workbench base. I know what one of you were saying about having to move everything anytime you need to switch tools if you have a all in one work bench and I can appreciate that. I am going to do it anyway because if I really do run into this and it becomes an issue I will just build more collapsible table bases and then no more issue. I'll just make each base work with each top. My next question is I have this sweet router now but no bits. I have never really used a router before and want to get some bits. Based on the suggestions on the net, seems 1/2 shank is more stable and seems to be, if you can get it in a 1/2 go with that, also I see there are tons of different quality bits as well. I definitely don't want to go with the cheapest thing I can find and I don't want to take a second mortgage for the top quality. I'm looking for a nice average starter set. What would you guys recommend?
> I was thinking of getting this
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S...=UTF8&colid=CGJNA5808HP3&coliid=IVSP3B4BSKB51


You could do a lot worse to start with. MLCS isnt a horrible brand. Their tools arent the highest quality, but they do fit a budget nicely and the bits i have from them cut pretty well. Any cheap starter set is a good thing to start with, because as you wear the cheaper bits out you can upgrade them to the better quality ones


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Cool thanks. Good to know. I think I will get the ones I showed you guys. Also I am 
Looking for some old counter top to make my table out of. No luck yet but I'm sure some will turn up.
Thanks again for all your guys advise. It has been a extremely helpful to me and my decisions. As I get my parts and pieces I will post how it's going with pictures.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

How much are you willing to spend on a top??


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Well I have 2 4X4 sheets of MDF that was going to use, and then top it with laminate. I was going to add miter slots and slots for a fence. It's not really the cost at this point, if I can get a free countertop to play with and learn what I want, I think that is what I'm looking for at this point. Free stuff that could mess up on and it not be a big deal because I did not waste money on it. I'm still thinking about the drop in plate, do I go with 1/4 inch plexi glass? Do I buy a pre made drop in plate? After people on here were talking about the size I was going to make being too big because it may have some flex in it and not cut correctly as a result, that made me rethink my whole design. Then I saw a video of a guy for woodworking magazine that made a top the same size I was going to make and he just added some hardwood braces under it, so I thought ok I'm going to go back to my original plan and just add the braces to the underside. Then I started thinking about so many times I. The past I have been on my way to work or driving around and I would see countertops out for trash at people's houses. Now of course I don't see them when I need one. I have told a lot of friends and family to keep an eye and ear out for some old countertops. So far no luck, but I have a few more options before I give up on the countertop thing.


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

That 15 pc MLCS set is as good a place to start as any. It's well proven, decent quality, has the most commonly used profiles, and doesn't make you pay for a bunch of oddball bits you won't use. As a similar option, Grizzly offers a 12 pc set for ~ $37 shipped.










As an upgrade option, the Whiteside 7pc basic set is ~ $95 shipped:


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

So I managed to get some solid surface countertop. This will be my router table surface. It 74 x 22







Plan is to cut it down to the final size, cut the hole in the middle and use the leftover to make the drop in plate.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

raqumup said:


> So I managed to get some solid surface countertop. This will be my router table surface. It 74 x 22
> View attachment 142105
> 
> Plan is to cut it down to the final size, cut the hole in the middle and use the leftover to make the drop in plate.


I used SS material on my router table but I don't worry about the top sagging because my router doesn't hang from the top. If your going to hang your router on a plate you need to really beef up the top. Otherwise it will soon sag and cause problems.

Al


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

How did you do it if you did not hang it?


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Ok tell me if this sounds good to you guys. Going to cut this piece in half. Going to cut the edges of the second piece off so it fits inside the existing wood to make it double thick. Going to cut a smaller hole in the lower piece and a bigger hole in the top piece so I have a shelf to rest the insert on. I will get another piece of the same top and make a drop in plate. I have decided to make another base for it that is taller than the workbench base I already have. Do you think this is a good idea?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

raqumup said:


> How did you do it if you did not hang it?


My lift mounts to the side of the router table. 
Here's the thread.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/best-router-lift-date-65267/

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

raqumup said:


> Ok tell me if this sounds good to you guys. Going to cut this piece in half. Going to cut the edges of the second piece off so it fits inside the existing wood to make it double thick. Going to cut a smaller hole in the lower piece and a bigger hole in the top piece so I have a shelf to rest the insert on. I will get another piece of the same top and make a drop in plate. I have decided to make another base for it that is taller than the workbench base I already have. Do you think this is a good idea?
> View attachment 142489


Raq

You have the right idea but your going to need some glue that will make the SS material adhere to each other. Have you looked at all the millions and gazillions of ways to build a router table? Many things about the router table are unforeseen until your finished, then your either fighting it or trying to fix it after the fact. Some guys spend over $1000 dollars building one. Some quite a bit less. I think its crazy to spend more than a few dollars. Also your first will not be your last.

Al


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

This is proving to be more than I thought but it will do what I want it to do, or at least I hope it does


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

raqumup said:


> This is proving to be more than I thought but it will do what I want it to do, or at least I hope it does


There are simpler and quicker ways to build a router table. I would look for a simple table you can clamp to your bench. The first table I made was 30 years ago. Made it out of a sink cutout with two rails screwed to the bottom so I could clamp it to the bench. I ran a pile of wood through it and when it was to saggy to use I built a little better one. I'm on my 6th now.

Al


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

I'm in this deep so go big or go home. I was able to go back to restore and got a 2'X2' piece of the same lot of SS counter top. So I will make the drop in plates with that.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

Finally got some time to work on it. Here is what I got

























My plan is to cut the bigger hole in the top corean and maybe a one inch smaller hole in the lower corean so there is a lip for the plate to rest on. I found at Home Depot, these brass screw inserts to put into the under side of the top surface so I can screw them together, better than glue in my mind, I could take it apart if I needed to. What do you think? The base is not done obviously, it will have 3 boards connecting them with hinges so it can fold up and only be 7 inches wide. Will post more as I progress.


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

So I finally got some time to finish the base. Very happy with it.







Still trying to decide how to go about the mount for the router. Originally I was going to make my own drop in plate but i thought about it and I may try and drill a hole for the router and route out a grove to fit the drop in plates from my oscillating drum sander to fit different router bits and use surface clamps to hold the router in place. I was thinking of cutting the hole in the bottom plate to fit the router perfectly so it can't move in any direction and then surface clamps to hold it. What do you guys think about that idea?


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## raqumup (Dec 28, 2014)

OK, so yea it's been a while but I actually need the router table now so I have to finish it. So I was a little upset because it had a dip in the middle and was not flat. I decided to try and flip it over and drill 4 holes for screws and bolts to secure the two counters together. When upside down the top surface was flat. So I did it and it worked. Anyway here is where I was thinking of cutting the hole for the router plate. What do you guys think? Also being new to routers I have never seen anyone use the pin that comes with the router plate. What instance would you use it? And what side of the router is it supposed to be? My plate has two holes for the pin, both on one side of the router but they are in front and behind the router? They are hard to see but they are both to the right of the yellow ring in the picture. Is that where they should be or do I need to flip the plate around?


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