# Staining and Poly on wood over art



## sdocpublishing (Dec 18, 2008)

Hello, 
I am making several small gift boxes for xmas gifts. The boxes are pretty cheap soft wood bought at a local hobby store, probably balsa or other soft pine.
I have transfered art work to the wood from an ink jet printer using a wood burning tool.
Now, I have applied the stain and I want to start finishing with a semi gloss poly.
How do I sand the layers of poly with out sanding down the art work?
Should I lay several layers of poly before sanding the first time?
Should I use a steel wool instead of 220 grit?
I would like to achieve a solid smooth coat of poly at projects end with as little damage to the art work as possible.
I have heard from other people that they have used up 7 coats of poly before sanding or buffing, and have ended with as many as 12 coats overall.
When I apply a coat of poly and wait too long to sand it, it always seems to dry to an impenetrable shell and I have a difficult time sanding down any streaks, bubbles, etc. 
I am just trying to make the nicest gift I can with a great long lasting finish, so I appreciate anyone's comments and advice.

Thank you,


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I have used Rotten Stone and Pumice as a final polish. I have this will leave a very smooth surface without the microscopic scratches caused by steel wool. Both sold by Rockler.

G


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you use an oil base polyurethane, it will cast an amberish hue to the woodwork. I would lay a coat or two before sanding. I would wet sand initially with 320x to 400x with silicon carbide (wet-or-dry) wet with water. After you get a sufficient build, sand up to 2000x, and use a smooth pumice and then rottenstone to get the finish. You could also use automotive rubbing and polishing compounds.

Allow each coat to cure before doing any sanding.

In lieu of using oil base polyurethane, you could use a two part pour on type epoxy bar top coating...less work. One coat may do it.


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## RLHERRON (May 15, 2008)

"I have transfered art work to the wood from an ink jet printer using a wood burning tool."

Could you share the details of how this is done? Is there a picture of finished piece? 

Thanks,
RLH


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## sdocpublishing (Dec 18, 2008)

*Inkjet Application*

The artwork is printed from any standard laser jet printer. I spoke incorrectly when I said Ink Jet previously.
The art work is printed on to any printer paper, but reverse the image as you will be applying it face down.
The wood burning tool has a tip that is shaped round and flat giving you a surface to rub across the back of the printed artwork and the heat transfers the ink onto the wood. 

I will try to upload a photo shortly.


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## sdocpublishing (Dec 18, 2008)

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/sdocpublishing-6584/albums/various/

Maybe this will work.


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

Interesting idea. I couldn't get the photo link to work. Says the picture had been deleted.


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

Why do you want to use polyurethane varnish on a decorative box?,these boxes get very little wear.Any oil varnish,wiping varnish or shellac would be more than ample.

Regards

Jerry


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## sdocpublishing (Dec 18, 2008)

I want the art work to last and not wear out. I do not know much more about finishing wood then I learned in HS wood shop, 20+ years ago.
So, I am unsure what techniques would be best. I only remember being told to sand it more, and then some more, and apply poly, and sand some more.


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## mainzy (Mar 8, 2008)

they sell quite a few finishes in aresol cans now. This would be the best way. I think any kind of brush would smear the ink. Do lots of real light coats. don't sand until your 2nd coat at least.

I would recomend doing a small sample piece to be sure.


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## Seasoned Carpentry (Jan 6, 2009)

There are aerosol cans of finish made specifically for artwork and photos. I've used it on my photos. There is even a water based one that is quite good. A couple coats would protect the art, then you could use a water clear water based poly for real protection. Sand after the second coat of poly lightly with a very fine grit and lay down your final coat.


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## sdocpublishing (Dec 18, 2008)

Should you not sand the final layer?

I will have to give a try to the spray poly's that sounds a lot easier.

I have finished all my gift boxes for gifts, and I regret not taking photos to post. I was very happy with 2 of 3 of the boxes I made and I would have loved to show them off. 
Not bad work for an amateur I think.

Thank you everyone for all of your ideas and support!

Travis


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## CVGCOM (Jan 7, 2009)

go to your local store and ask for enviro tex as mentioned above its is a two part pour on finish that is used on bars and resturant table tops...very VERY durable and very easy to use


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## justin2009 (Jan 5, 2009)

If they're just gift boxes and will not be handled or used like furniture, I would use spray laquer instead. Rattle can spray laquer. It dries really fast and you can put on several coats in a short amount of time. It's easily repairable if you sand too much. Spray on three light coats at one time - wait a while (per can instructions), sand with probably 400 or 600 grit starting out, then recoat. You can keep adding layers as desired to build sheen and sand with higher and higher grits up to wet sanding and polishing if you want a mirror finish. I think Deft is the brand I used when I refinished my stratocaster guitar. It takes about 30 days for laquer to cure, so that might be a deal killer. You can wet sand it and get a really nice finish in just a few days, but to polish it, the laquer needs to cure. It all depends on how thick you want the finish and how shiny you want it.


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## justin2009 (Jan 5, 2009)

Oh, and whatever you do, you want to sand lightly!


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## CVGCOM (Jan 7, 2009)

deft spray laquer is very nice...good product and easy to use


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