# better way to End this Chair Rail



## marfil0808 (Aug 9, 2012)

Anyone have a better idea to end this chair rail or any other suggestions.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Had the skirt board been installed over the sheet rock instead of the sheet rock being flush with the face of the skirt you wouldn't have that problem. Just off the top of my head I would install a 1/2 thick bull noise that would protrude beyond the chair thickness in place of that thin mold covering the joint. On the skirt side of the bull noise I would install a small cove or small 1/4 round to break up the thickness of the bull noise and also give some detail.


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Not sure there would be a better way other then changing the backband with something to match the thickness of the chair rail


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

However it doesn't look bad


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could just cut a 45° across the face where it dies in.










 







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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

In situations like this a mitered return is often used so you don't see a plain flat end cut. There are a number of ways to do it in your situation. You could stay on the present angle under the skirt band or you could make it a square cut that steps over the band. I have some pictures of mitered returns. They can return straight back, have multiple facets or be cut to look like they die into another piece. I think you can use any combination of bevels that add up to 90. 

A rosette, plinth block or carving could also be used. I have a picture of a stair rail ending that is pretty cool. You could continue the top of the chair rail and do something similar for a real unique look.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I'm not a trim guy. But it doesn't look bad to me. 
But maybe just removing it would be nice.


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## marfil0808 (Aug 9, 2012)

Thanks for all your suggestions. If I stay at the current angle and want to do a return, it is possible?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

marfil0808 said:


> Thanks for all your suggestions. If I stay at the current angle and want to do a return, it is possible?


That wouldn't work out well at the angle. Returns are usually done @90°.










 







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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Do a sample with some shorter scraps of the chair rail. If you haven't cut returns before, there are a couple of things that can help. First, make an auxiliary fence and table for the miter saw. This will show exactly where the blade will fall and provide support so the small pieces don't get sucked through the wide fence opening. Make the bevel cut on a longer piece first, then cut the return off. You can lay the piece face down on the saw and see where to make the straight cut on the back, even with the short point of the bevel. Use a strip of masking tape to anchor the return to the table so it doesn't fly away. Leave the saw down after a cut until it stops.

I often make a sacrificial table and fence to use with my miter saw. When they get cut up, like the one in the picture, I toss them. If you have to make a compound cut, the auxiliary fence will have to allow clearance so the saw can move forward.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think it would look better if the trim the chair rail butts into was changed to a larger molding, perhaps the chair rail molding or just build it out with another piece behind it however it would have to be moved forward since it terminates at the back side of the tread.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 18, 2012)

Is the chair rail the same height as the tread top, or bottom of rail same as bottom of molding under tread? Could you live with a different profile on that rail? A narrower rail and/or lowered a bit? Or raised? is there a match in profile of the bottom of rail and tread mold? Make a new rail from tread mold and top part of rail? A new one with same profile as tread and mold?
Remove the short piece of tread mold and angled skirt trim, mebbee mark it across where it meets rail top and bottom first. Extend the rail, cut and replace the skirt trim. If you could get the top of the rail to match and be flush with top of tread and the bottom the same as tread mold it might look OK. Cept for that abrupt change from black to white. Now all you gotta do is replace all the other rails in the room to match the new profile. 
Trim the back of that bottom tread even with the riser, extend the rail and return miter rail so bull is flush with riser, new tread mold coped to fit rail. Extend the rail to back of tread, return miter and cope new tread mold to fit and notch return to fit each other. That's complicated to explain ( and do) Thicker molding should return onto thinner, thinner parts cope onto thicker, looks like rail and tread mold will each have a return and a cope.
Orrrr... If enuff vertical height on angle; New rail notched and whittled to fit over new angled trim. Rail just long enough so 90 degree return miter's "nose" doesnt jut past angle. Or notch and cope the angle to accept longer return mitered rail.
Orrrr... Cut out section of angle, extend return mitered rail through gap so bottom meets top of angle. 
Ya know, I gotta stop thinkin out loud this way.


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