# Table saw blade height changes



## KatHelms (Feb 16, 2012)

So I am new to woodworking. My table saw is just a little 10" craftsman, which I got as a gift some years ago.

It's been fine for general around the house stuff, but now that I have an interest in woodworking, it's proving to be difficult to use - or maybe it's just me.

When I set the height for a specific depth, after a few cuts the blade falls. This is annoying because it makes cutting something simple - like a half-lap - into a super time-consuming process.

Is this common on cheap saws, or table saws in general?

Does anyone have some trick for keeping the knob from vibrating/turning after I've got it set?

I know the easiest solution is probly, 'get yourself a saw that doesn't suck' but I am on the budget plan right now, and that doesn't fit the budget (although I am on the lookout for used ones..)

Thanks!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's a test*

make a cut at 1" and check it with a steel scale. Make a mark on your height adustment knob at 12:00 noon or vertical. Make some more cuts and then look to see if the mark as rotated either way from vertical. If so figure out a way to clamp it, tape it, tie it, fasten it based on how it's made and the best way. A small clamp or wedge behind it may be enough. 

All this is assuming there is no locking knob to keep the height fixed. Check back in with what you find out. :yes: bill

Post a photo of the saw, knob and other info....


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## tito5 (Apr 5, 2011)

model number of your saw or a picture might help also....


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## KatHelms (Feb 16, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> make a cut at 1" and check it with a steel scale. Make a mark on your height adustment knob at 12:00 noon or vertical. Make some more cuts and then look to see if the mark as rotated either way from vertical. If so figure out a way to clamp it, tape it, tie it, fasten it based on how it's made and the best way. A small clamp or wedge behind it may be enough.
> 
> All this is assuming there is no locking knob to keep the height fixed. Check back in with what you find out. :yes: bill
> 
> Post a photo of the saw, knob and other info....


Yeah, it definitely dropped somewhat.

I wish I had just overlooked a lock knob! After you mentioned that I spent a good long time looking it over and going through the manual, just in the off chance I hadn't seen one all this time.. no luck! 

Just a lock for the tilt.

Anyway, I have been so busy with work and family the last 2 weeks I haven't been able to even get out to the shop, but I will try to tie it down somehow and let you know how I did.

Thanks for the suggestions!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

tito5 said:


> *model number* of your saw or a *picture* might help also....


+1. :yes: There should be a lock, like a knurled ring, or something similar.









 







.


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## Benny Blanco (Apr 21, 2012)

Often on machinery, slop in the mechanics will cause a movement to drop or move.
On my table saw, if I set the blade height by lowering it, it will drop further in use, or just from the shock of starting the motor.
If I set the blade height by bringing it up from low,it tends to stay where it should.

On my saw, there is a wave washer on the blade arbors yoke pivot, its pretty stiff.
When lowering the blade, the worm gear that moves the gear rack, is puling the works down.
Then vibration, causes the blade to drop because of the slop, or lost motion in the gear and rack.
If it is raised to to height, the lost motion or slop is taken up, and it tends to stay put.

So, if I am setting blade height, and I overshoot the height I want, I bring the blade back down below where I want it, and then bring it back up, taking out the lost motion of the mechanical parts.
Just a little problem I found with my saw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*excellent advice!*

My Craftsman 12" saws have the same "condition" and they also have a height adjustment lock. It's always best to come up to the height you need, usually in making stopped cuts from the bottom of the work like a 2 cut rabbbet. However, for ripping in general the exact height is not critical.  bill


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## Murphy's Law (Dec 15, 2011)

I think these guys are giving you good advice by telling you to come to your measured height from below. Not down from above. This acts to remove the "slack" or "play" in the height adjustment mechanics of the saw. It doesn't always do the trick but it sure helps. I don't know if I have ever seen a TS without some type of locking device on the adjustment wheels.


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