# Attaching Shelves to Bookcase w/o routing



## All_Thumbs (Jan 30, 2012)

Hello! I am new here. I am pretty much a woodworking newb. I managed to build myself a nice workbench using my own plans and materials (i'll try to post a pic later), but that is the extent of my woodworking experience. I have basic tools, a drill, and a circular saw.

I am working on building a wall-to-wall bookcase for my basement. I have it all measured and planned out. I am using 1x12 x48 solid aspen boards as my starting point. I just finished staining them and I am about to start building. 

My question is what is the best way to attach the shelves to the sidewalls without routing out horizontal grooves for the shelves or vertical grooves for those metal clip strips? I do not need the shelves to be adjustable. 

Right now, I was considering using four 1x1 inch angle brackets (1 in each of the corners.) I was planning to hide them with facia on the front. However, I also though it might look better to screw in wooden supports strips runinng the depth of the walls for the shelves to sit on. 

Any advice as to which would look better/be more functional? Again, I do not have to tools to use dados.

Thanks!


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

My first set of shelves I did just that, ran wooden cleats beneath each shelf. I also cut a 45 degree on each cleat where it faced the outside of shelf to minimize the look. I learned how to do dados soon after, but those shelves are still a part of my bathroom.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you have a drill, you could just drill 1/4" holes, and cut up some 1/4" wood dowel as a shelf support. If you want to make the dowel less visible, cut a little recess in the bottom of the shelf for the dowel to sit in. This would also prevent the shelf from moving around.

If you just place the shelf on the dowels, the shelf can be flipped if necessary.











 







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## DLW Mark (Jan 30, 2012)

You could use pegs or screw 1" X 1" wooden cleats to the sides but either way a 4 foot long by 1 inch thick aspen board is gonna sag like crazy without some kind of support in the middle. If you don't want to get fancy you could use large shelf brackets I guess.


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## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

There is always the pocket hole screw as much as some woodworkers dispise them.


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## Pauley (Jan 21, 2012)

You could also use the little brass pins for adjustable shelving. Just be sure to drill all the holes level.

Author: The Other Casualty Of War


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## Evilfrog (Aug 2, 2011)

I'm a big fan of shelf pins. They make jigs to make it easier to keep the holes uniformed. I like pins so I can rearrange the shelves if the need comes about.


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## All_Thumbs (Jan 30, 2012)

I was planning on using something like this:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

All_Thumbs said:


> I was planning on using something like this:


IMO...fugly. Too mechanical looking. There are much more subdued ways, unless that's the look you want.










 







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## All_Thumbs (Jan 30, 2012)

Thanks guys. I think I will go with the cleat option.


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## Evilfrog (Aug 2, 2011)

All_Thumbs said:


> I was planning on using something like this:


Those would work. A pocket hole jig would secure them as well (as someone mentioned) and would look a little nicer. But those would get the job done, and might not be too noticeable if you spray paint them black.


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## All_Thumbs (Jan 30, 2012)

Thanks guys (and any gals). One more quick question: Is it better to attach the sides of the bookcase to the horizontal or vertical plane of the top and bottom of the case? I was planning on having the sides touch the ground and having all shelves and the top fit between them, with a toekick on the bottom.....but I have also seen bookcases where the sides are sandwiched in between the top and bottom


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