# Cleaning up jointer-surface rust



## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

About 3 years ago I bought a ridgid 6" jointer on clearance from homedepot for around 250 bucks if I remember right. Was an impulse purchase while walking through the store and saw it on clearance. I set it up and tried it out and haven't used it since! Now the surface of the table has some surface rust on it. 

Little off topic, I have a 12 year old brother that we recently found out has a cancerous tumor behind his right eye. So he is going through radiation and 43 weeks of chemo. Talking to him the other day he tells me since he is going to have lots of time off school he would like to do something with his time and try and make a little money. We thought about a few different things and came up with some woodworking projects and are going to start with some simpler clocks.

So it's time to tune up the wood working tools that have pretty much been sitting around idle and put them to use. The two that are in need of some TLC are my 6" ridgid jointer and my 15" craftsman industrial planer. Both like new expect for surface rust mostly and I think I need new blades for the planer, bought it used for a really good deal and haven't used it yet.

What is the best way to clean up the surface rust? I've tried some steel wool and wd40 but that doesn't really work all that well, unless I need to get some different grit steel wool? What grit steel wool works best? Or is there some scotch brite pads I can use on a die grinder that will take the rust off without damaging the table?

Also, I would like to wax the tables or something when I get them clean so I don't have to worry about this issue again. What is the best way to keep surface rust from forming on machines?


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## BernieL (Oct 28, 2011)

Scott - I inherited a few of my Dad's old tools that had been sitting around for a few years. I've dealt with rust before. A few products have worked fairly well for me. First things first - W-D40 is a good 1st step - it will take away the dirt and 1st layer of rust. Just be patient and let it soak for a couple of minutes.

Then get go to a local automotive store and get one of their metal cleaners. I like the "NeverDull" product which is a wading soaked in their chemicals. Just keep ripping off pieces of this wading and work out the rust. I work small sections at a time and work them well. I doubt you will get all the rust off, but you should have a major improvement. 

I have a 3rd procedure for extra nasty spots. On these I use a product called "Flitz". It's expensive and needs work. I usually like to work the Flitz with fine my finger nails or a (dish washing) scrub pads. When you're done this, you may still have a few spots.

As for protecting your tops, think automotive again. I've used some of their products that worked fairly well. Look for a non-oily product. Or just use a butcher block or bowling alley wax.


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## egw (Dec 26, 2011)

I have also received hardware with rust in various portions of the flat surface the procedures outlined perviously are very good the only thing to watch for is that with too much pressure you may take too much metal because the rust has eaten too much into the surface. Here is where you need to be careful and if you cannot take the surfaces down at a machine shop, because of cost, then sealing them with DryCoat or even wax will help keep some of the remaining rust, if there is any off the wood when you plane. You may not get the shiny surface back, on mine I didn't it remained a black "stain" on the surface, But I took a steel ruler to the surface and it was close enough as not to allow a piece of onion paper between the surface and the ruler. This made me very happy. 

Good luck and take your time. 

Ed


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## MoHawk (Mar 26, 2011)

Eezox works great for me. I use it on all of my tools and guns. Makes steel and cast iron surfaces very slick.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Some guys use a razor blade scraper to scrape away the rust with good results. You use up a lot of razor blades but they are cheap. Another technique is a Scotchbrite type pad on a sander or even by hand - used with WD40. Also, though I've never used it, Evapo-Rust is supposed to be excellent.

Once the rust is off, protect the bare CI with products listed above (that Eezox looks interesting) but beware of automotive waxes (or other products) that contain silicone. The silicone tends to get on your wood and wreak havoc with finishes. I just use plain old cheap Johnson's Wax. It's easy to apply and does the job. However, if you ask ten woodworkers, you may get ten different answers on coatings (Boeshield is popular).

Best wishes to your brother!

Bill


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I have no suggestions for the rust, but want to send your brother and yourself and your family my prayers.


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## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

I have used sandpaper, then for protection Johnson's paste wax.


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## yocalif (Nov 11, 2010)

Yo Poncho, sorry to hear about your younger brother, life is pretty tough as it is, having to experience such traumatic illness so young sure doesn't make it easier. It is wonderful that you are trying to make his time fulfilling and productive.

Regarding Rust
here is a quote from a post I made on restoring a Band saw cast iron table.



> I used PBbuster and Loctite Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver. I started with PB buster but it just wasn’t cutting the rust. So I switched to Loctite Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver. Using Steel wool, 3 different grit of sandpaper, a orbital sander, wet sanding, elbow grease


pics here

The nice thing about the Loctite Naval Jelly is being a jell it won't run lick other liquid rust removers, thus it sits there doing its thing.


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## MSST8DOG (Mar 6, 2021)

ponch37300 said:


> About 3 years ago I bought a ridgid 6" jointer on clearance from homedepot for around 250 bucks if I remember right. Was an impulse purchase while walking through the store and saw it on clearance. I set it up and tried it out and haven't used it since! Now the surface of the table has some surface rust on it.
> 
> Little off topic, I have a 12 year old brother that we recently found out has a cancerous tumor behind his right eye. So he is going through radiation and 43 weeks of chemo. Talking to him the other day he tells me since he is going to have lots of time off school he would like to do something with his time and try and make a little money. We thought about a few different things and came up with some woodworking projects and are going to start with some simpler clocks.
> 
> ...


I would use Corrosion-X or white vinegar. Both work great.


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