# cutting board



## btreadway2003 (Sep 25, 2012)

Here's another cutting board. Using curly maple and purpleheart. My problem is i don't have a planer i do have a hand planer but I'm not that great with it. What other options do i have? Is it possible to sand it down enough to smooth out?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

With this design you have grain running in different directions.

I would recommend sanding this, but you likely do not have a drum sander.

Assuming you do not have a drum sander, the next approach would be a Random Orbit Sander.

If you do not have an ROS, then hand sanding would work - it just takes a lot of elbow grease.

Start with e.g. 80 grit, then work up through the grits to 220.

Edit - I forgot to mention, I do like the design. I have done many boards with grain "challenges" so this is a common problem.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

How about a router sled. Worked great with my burls. Grain in all directions. Just a thought. 
But like dave said a ROS would work to, depending how much you need to remove.


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## btreadway2003 (Sep 25, 2012)

Thanks guys there is almost 1/16 difference in spots.i have a couple different hand sanders honestly don't know exactly what they are (I'm a new guy that inherited some tools lol). One of them i have to cut the paper and it vibrates like crazy, the other almost like a belt, this thing is powerful but the paper keeps slipping on it. I also have a router and table but not sure what you meant by using that. Thanks again!

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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Sounds like you have a quarter sheet finish sander and a belt sander. A random orbit sander is different than these two. The belt sander is very aggressive. The ROS is more aggressive than the finish sander, but less than the belt sander. The belt sander will work, but can easily put divots in the piece if you're not careful. The ROS is aggressive enough to do the trick, just keep it moving. 
A planer sled is built so the router runs on rails so it can be passed over the piece both across the length and width. Search on this site for router sled. Dominick built a cool one to clean up his burls. 
That's a good looking cutting board by the way. Good luck with however you work it.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If you have to remove quite a bit of material you can use the belt sander, sand across the grain, I know it is not the way you are supposed to use a sander, but that is the best way to remove lots of material with a belt sander without gouging. Once the top is even then use the pad sander with the grain to remove the sanding marks.

Sounds like you may have to adjust the tracking or replace the belt on the belt sander before you start.


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## btreadway2003 (Sep 25, 2012)

Ok got back at it today, belt sander worked great going across the grain and then going with the grain. Started at 80 grit and finished with 220. I think it looks amazing, so far i have one coat of mineral oil.

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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Glad you got it smoothed out, and thanks for getting back to us.

I like the mineral oil formula:

Once a week for a month
Once a month for a year
Once a year for life.

I like to warm it before applying, seems to soak in better.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Glad it worked for you. Nice looking board.


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## btreadway2003 (Sep 25, 2012)

FrankC said:


> Glad you got it smoothed out, and thanks for getting back to us.
> 
> I like the mineral oil formula:
> 
> ...



Thanks for the tip!

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## btreadway2003 (Sep 25, 2012)

I'm starting some more designs this week and Christmas presents will be finished early! First time ever lol

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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

After the initial soaking I often use mineral oil with some wax melted into it. It seems to keep the wood looking finished a little longer than mineral oil alone. I doubt it adds any value other than appearance.


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## btreadway2003 (Sep 25, 2012)

And here is another one. do you guys sell these? If so what would you charge for one?

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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Very nice.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Nice boards. I sell mine for $75 or so, more if they are larger than my standard 12" x 20" - edge grain.


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## btreadway2003 (Sep 25, 2012)

The 2 I've made so far have been 15x 18 i was thinking 65 or so. Id like to make some extra cash for Christmas

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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

I do pretty well with mine. I sell about 20-30 per season.


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## btreadway2003 (Sep 25, 2012)

Id love to sell that many if i had time to make them all.

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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

btreadway2003 said:


> Here's another cutting board. Using curly maple and purpleheart. My problem is i don't have a planer i do have a hand planer but I'm not that great with it. What other options do i have? Is it possible to sand it down enough to smooth out?


If you have a lot of material to remove a router sled is the way to go. I build a lot of cutting boards and do have a planer. However after the glue up they may not be flat enough to run thru the planer. I can level most cutting boards in 5 to 10 minutes and then a lot less sanding.
Tom


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you have a belt sander I would first sand it across the grain with a 40x belt. When you get close to having it level change to a 60x belt and sand with the grain. As soon as you get it level I would change to a 80x belt continuing to sand with the grain until you get all of the scratches from the 40x belt out. When sanding with a belt sander let the sander do all the work. Don't add a lot of extra pressure, just keep it running flat. If you let the sander tip one direction or another you can make dents in the wood which are very hard to see. Then I would bring it to a final sand with a random orbital sander or finish sander. I would start with 80x paper and gradually change to finer paper until you finish with 220 grit paper.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

btreadway2003 said:


> Id love to sell that many if i had time to make them all.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy SII using Woodworking Talk


i do long glue ups, enough to get 3 boards out of - so about 60"+ kerf. cross cut them, get the juice channels routed in, 3/8" round over bit for the edges and sand em clean and finish.


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