# Rockler Thin rip Table saw Jig



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Just recieved my 2 Thin Rip Table saw jigs from Rockler. $15.00 ea. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056&filter=thin%20rip%20jig
part no 36833. They really work! I got 2 for more than one saw, but I found that by using 2 at once it acts as a roller pressure in towards the fence and makes for a more accurate cut, although 2 would not be required. The graduations are in 1/8" and 1/16ths, but you be better off to establish the thickness by trial and error for a perfect fit, if one is required. There is a method to zero it out and that should work also. I highly recommend this device and was able to cut 1/16" strips falling to the left of the blade, impossible any other way.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

WNT,
I just may have to get ONE of those. For fifteen bucks, it's not worth the time to make one. I see there is a little bearing in the tip, too. I have a set of those magnetic roller guides and featherboards, so one jig should be enough. Looks like it does a nice job. I also want a set of rocklers' new 'cookies', so it gives me an excuse to order both.
Mike Hawkins


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Bill,
Is there a roller at the point of the device?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yup*

Small, but mighty effective....."acts as roller pressure in towards the fence" ...probably should be larger, but for $15.00 not a bad idea.:thumbsup: bill


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## Mike Gager (Jan 11, 2009)

i recently got one of these too. works very nice and the quality of the jig is excellent. for $15 (got mine with shipping as well) you can not go wrong!


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Thanks Bill.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Hey Bill,
I just ordered one of the jigs and a set of the cookies from Rocklers. Couldn't resist. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

Is the thin rip jig used in conjunction with the fence? It looks cool.Wish I knew more about how it actually works.I see increment marks on it do ya just set it then keep moving the fence after each rip? Itchy


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yup*

You set the jig to the dimesion of cut off you want to the left side of the blade. You move the workpiece and fence to "bump' the roller on the jig, each time you make a pass. You need a self squaring fence or you will be frustrated with this jig. A feather board will work in the same fashion, if it's not flexing when you "bump" it. A rigid stop block clamped to the left side will also work. This jig sets up easily with the self clamping knob and that's the biggest advantage.
:thumbsup: bill


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## gregL (Feb 1, 2009)

I have this jig and it will not work on the left side miter slot of my Grizzly cabinet saw. When I extend the jig all the way out to try making thin rips, the closest I can rip to the saw blade is about 1 1/4". This jig would be useful it it were a couple of inches longer.
I can only use it on the right side of my blade since the right side miter slot is closer than the left. It feels quite awkward and dangerous using it this way.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I see what you mean from the photo of a Grizzly*

The left slot is about 7" from the blade, near as I can tell, unlike my Craftsman saws. I think that's because you get more support from the miter gauge on a longer piece by having it a little further out. I do like the quick clamp feature of the expanding bar on the jig however and possibly and adaptation of that concept could be made to work for you. It may just be a piece of that slippery plastic: http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm rounded off with a slot to reach a little further over. :thumbsup: bill


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