# Zero Clearance Hinges



## ljensen1 (Apr 1, 2012)

I've almost done with the biggest woodworking project I've ever attempted - kitchen cabinets - but I realized I have made life difficult for myself when it comes to hinges for a couple of them.

I have two cabinets with pull-out shelves. The cabinets are frameless and the doors are 1/4" overlay. I was going to use Blum or Solice concealed hinges, but I'm not sure they'll work in this application. I don't need partial overlay hinges - I've got 1 1/2" between the cabinet openings - I just liked the look of the 1/4" overlay.

The pull-out shelves are already installed and the doors are already made, so I need to find something that works with this set up.

Is there any combination of hinge and mounting plate that would give zero clearance in this situation. And even if there is, I suppose the cabinet door will have to be opened quite far to get that zero clearance? 

Are there any other types of hinges that offer zero clearance?

Thanks for any advice.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could just use a zero clearance hinge:



















 







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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

What I do for my rollouts is put a 2 1/2" x 22" x 1 1/4" Maple block on the hinge side of all cabinets that will have roll outs. My box is Pre Finished Maple so it looks nice and alleviates this dilemma


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## ljensen1 (Apr 1, 2012)

Thanks, but I don't think that will work with a 1/4" overlay. It says the overlay (D) = 12 + the drilling distance (3mm or 6mm).


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ljensen1 said:


> Thanks, but I don't think that will work with a 1/4" overlay. It says the overlay (D) = 12 + the drilling distance (3mm or 6mm).


Then the alternative would be to use a build out behind the cabinet member slide thick enough for the drawer/pull out to clear the door edge when the door is at 90 degrees. Similar to what MH explained, but the thickness only necessary. If you have the door hung already, it would be easy to figure out how thick. 

The drawer/pull out would have to be 1 1/16" (17/16") narrower than the opening between the build up and the opposite cabinet wall.












 







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## ljensen1 (Apr 1, 2012)

I already have the pull-out shelves installed and I have the door cut to size (but not yet hung). I was hoping there was some kind of hinge out there that would work with this this situation.

Maybe I'll have to take the pull-out shelves out and cut them down, but that will be a pain because they have routed and finished hardwood sides. I would basically have to rebuild them.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ljensen1 said:


> I already have the pull-out shelves installed and I have the door cut to size (but not yet hung). I was hoping there was some kind of hinge out there that would work with this this situation.


The problem is with the door edge being in the way. Or, the plate and arm are in the way. Hinges can be spaced to clear the pull out, like above or below the hinge, if the door edge swings out of the way, done like this.



ljensen1 said:


> Maybe I'll have to take the pull-out shelves out and cut them down, but that will be a pain because they have routed and finished hardwood sides. I would basically have to rebuild them.


BTDT.:yes: That can be done without too much grief if you are careful. What are your pullouts? What kind of joints?











 







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## ljensen1 (Apr 1, 2012)

I found one! Grass makes a zero clearance hinge that will work with a 1/4" overlay. I'll just use Grass hinges for everything. They seem to have a good reputation.


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## ljensen1 (Apr 1, 2012)

Took a closer look at the technical drawings. The Grass hinge will only be zero clearance in a full overlay situation. Looks like the best I can get (with a 1/4" overlay and a 3/4" thick door) is about 6 or 7 mm of door protrusion.

I guess I will have to cut down those pull-outs. The shelves themselves are 3/4" birch plywood. I have 2 1/2" tall, solid birch sides biscuited and glued on to the edges of the plywood, all around the shelves. The birch is 3/4" thick, so I could take off a 1/4" on each side and give myself a 1/2" of clearance on the hinge side of the cabinet.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ljensen1 said:


> Took a closer look at the technical drawings. The Grass hinge will only be zero clearance in a full overlay situation. Looks like the best I can get (with a 1/4" overlay and a 3/4" thick door) is about 6 or 7 mm of door protrusion.
> 
> I guess I will have to cut down those pull-outs. The shelves themselves are 3/4" birch plywood. I have 2 1/2" tall, solid birch sides biscuited and glued on to the edges of the plywood, all around the shelves. The birch is 3/4" thick, so I could take off a 1/4" on each side and give myself a 1/2" of clearance on the hinge side of the cabinet.


If you are using drawer slides that suggest 1/2" + 1/32" per side, use the clearances I suggested in post #5. With the door at 90 degrees see what the protrusion is. You might be able to only need to cut one side, between the 3/4" edge and the substrate. 

You didn't state if there was any particularly intricate joinery, so I'm assuming it's like a rabbet, miter, or a butt.









 








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## ljensen1 (Apr 1, 2012)

I am using slides that require 1/2" clearance.

I used butt joints, so at least that won't be a problem when I cut down the pull-outs.

I'll hang the door with the 170 degree hinge from Grass. Then I'll do as you suggest and figure out how thick a build-out I need behind the slide and how much I need to remove from the pull-out.

Thanks for your help!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Dang, I was hoping you found the magic hinge. I looked for a little while and gave up. Since you are cutting the pull outs down anyway, I would cut them down enough there is a 1/2" space between the slide and the door. My customers complained that their pull outs were scraping the door anyway when it was just them not opening the door enough.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Welcome to the school of hard knocks.


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## ljensen1 (Apr 1, 2012)

That makes sense. I'll make sure I leave plenty of room.

I can be certain I'm never again going to use a 1/4" overlay on a cabinet with pull-outs.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ljensen1 said:


> That makes sense. I'll make sure I leave plenty of room.
> 
> I can be certain I'm never again going to use a 1/4" overlay on a cabinet with pull-outs.


Reminds me of this sign:















 







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