# Liquid glass prep and finishing



## DavesWood (Sep 10, 2012)

Hey folks,

Just a few quick questions about liquid glass. I have a number of timber slabs that I'm preparing for a bar set up and was just wondering if I should use a sanding sealer on it before application, what sealer would be compatible with the liquid glass and if I have a large slab to coat, what are the chances of a cold joint occurring between mixing batches? Last of all how would I coat both sides of a slab without creating a lap line in the liquid glass?

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers guys
Dave


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

DavesWood
Your going to have to be more specific on the product/who makes it/ how it i to be applied.(sprayed/troweled/etc).
I work with epoxies that are troweled on but when I Google "Liquid Glass" it goes 20 directions including a nano tech layering sprayed on.

Fill me in, and maybe I can help (or not)


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## DavesWood (Sep 10, 2012)

G'day aardvark,

Its called aristocrat high gloss resin (liquid glass) it's a two part epoxy sodium silicate. There's a post on YouTube showing the application of pouring it on and spreading with a notched trowel. I've read into it a fair bit but not sure if I should seal the timber before I coat it in case of delaminating or similar problems. As it is poured on and creates a drip line on the edges, I was chasing a few pointers on how to coat the opposite side later without creating a lap line over the previous coat.

Thanks for the reply aardvark, hope this helps.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Well 
It doesn't sound any different than most epoxy coats. Glass coat means nothing unless we are talking a resin spray coat that is a nano product....not well tested that I am aware of.

I use a product called "Envirotek" and it is a 50/50% epoxy mix and has been out for ~15+ years.
I would first off, stick to tried and true products (even available at big box stores for $55 a gallon). 

I exclusively use it as a first coat to toughen grains and stand out the color and detail. Problem is, 1 coat rarely works, and yes it's troweled on and takes 8 hours minimum to skin over and 24 hours to be strong. I wouldn't touch it for 72 hours + before resurfacing with a differing substrate, and waterbased poly is all I know that is compatible (DON'T go oil based).

Yes, it's troweled on with a fine toothed trowel, and yes it runs off the surface. The surface must be 100% level, or your asking for issues. The other option is side sealing the edges but they better be 100% tight, since the stuff will find a pinhole to seep through and with the long drying time, most will end up....gone on the floor. It is recommended to not go over 1/4" depth per pour, if you are floating the stuff and wether troweled on or flooded, dust and bugs are a big issue.
I generally let it sit for days, and sand it, then poly it.

But I don't know the product you are using without a link to check it and don't know your proposed application.
I use it for toughening wood grains on soft lumber and as a 2 coat (minimum) process on table tops, followed by poly (usually 5 coats).

This stuff is not easy to use and takes practice. The drying time is actually up to 2 months for a total cure, but usable in 72 hours (depending on drying temperatures).
I've done over 5 major sized table projects with the stuff, and I still get surprises working with it.


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## DavesWood (Sep 10, 2012)

Thanks for the info aardvark, 

I've posted this photo of the project half finished. I just put it together to get sizes etc.
The top is not 100% flat, is this going to be a major problem using the resin? Also the edges I've left near enough to the natural state. Will this resin coat over the top of bark?





















Not sure if these photos worked or not,

Thanks for your help and advice mate


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

It's doable, but it will take more than one coat, and be ready with a foam brush to touch up the live edge.
The stuff seeks it's own level, so it will pool in some areas and run off from others leaving dry spots...colored but dry.. Make sure the top is as level as you can possibly get it before you start.
Got a propane torch for bubbles?

Looks good by the way. I work mainly with live and bark edged woods.
Heres my site. Most of these tables were first coated with epoxy. Go to the "Projects" section to see in process tables. I don't show the epoxying process but you can see beginning to end results in short form...in a slideshow.
http://gnarlywooddesigns.weebly.com/


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

DavesWood said:


> The top is not 100% flat, is this going to be a major problem using the resin? Also the edges I've left near enough to the natural state. Will this resin coat over the top of bark?


Before I pour the top, I fill all cracks, splits, and holes with a 2 part gel epoxy to prevent seepage. For the edges, I use a bristle brush and brush on the edge from the amount ready to be poured. Bristle brushes are less likely to leave bubbles, or get caught or torn on the bark. Having the edges done first allows the pour to overflow onto the edge. As it does, a brush can even out the edge.









 







.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

^ 
What he said!
Agree!


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## RVR Woodworking (Dec 30, 2016)

*Liquid Glass issues*

Is there an expiration date for liquid glass or is there something else that would affect the surface? I have done countless projects that turned out great. Now, I have a different shop and the two projects I did have both had a very slight textured that almost resembles an oil slick randomness pattern. I am not sure what caused this or what I should do to remedy it. Anyone else had this experience? Thanks.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RVR Woodworking said:


> Is there an expiration date for liquid glass or is there something else that would affect the surface? I have done countless projects that turned out great. Now, I have a different shop and the two projects I did have both had a very slight textured that almost resembles an oil slick randomness pattern. I am not sure what caused this or what I should do to remedy it. Anyone else had this experience? Thanks.


I have never used liquid glass so I don't have any experience with it. I do know that all finishes have a shelf life and are also vulnerable to weather conditions. There should be information on the product listing the temperature and humidity range of the product. The finish should also be dated somewhere. It may be in their own code which you may be able to get online or from the company.


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