# Another glued miter joint question



## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

I'm trying to make some "boxes" for a fund raiser. Not really a box, just a 1/2" thick pice of oak top with some words routed in it and then 4 sides that are 1/2" thick by 1 1/2" tall. I made one and just did simple joints where the sides meet together. Ran the front and back the whole length and then the sides glued to those. But you saw end grain on the sides. The next one I made I was going to miter the corners so you don't see any end grain. But they didn't glue up, just snapped since there was no strength gluing end grain to end grain. What simple joint can I use here that will look good and hold. I know simple, strong, good looking don't really go together but I'm hoping for something! Here's a picture of what I have now showing the 4 sides with mitered corners. Then there is a top that will sit on top of these sides. Any suggestions? I'm hoping to make a bunch of these for a fund raiser for a family member that has cancer.


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## d_slat (Apr 10, 2012)

If you want to stick with the metered joint, you could add some splines to add strength and dress it up a bit too.


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

I'm not against using a different style joint. But trying to keep it simple.

I like the idea of the spline. But what would be the best way to do that? Usually you join the pieces first and then make the cut for the spline right?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It looks like you may need a sharper blade to cut your miters. A joint mitered like that should hold pretty good. Granted it would be better to spline it but it looks like the joint isn't tight enough in the picture.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I have made simple mitered (end grain to end grain) joints that have held up perfectly well. They may not be as strong as other joints, but they have been perfectly adequate. You have to use sufficient glue and try to get it to "soak" into the end grain.



George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

d_slat said:


> If you want to stick with the metered joint, you could add some splines to add strength and dress it up a bit too.


+1. :yes: You could do splines like this. Or after it's glued up, cut in 'keys' like this. If your miters are right, the box sides should glue up OK, at least to use splines or keys.


















.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

if you have some money for a router but, a lock miter bit would fit the bill

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_lockmiter.html


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

or perhaps a rabbeting miter joint

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_rabbeting_miter_joint.html


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Looks like you're using right angle clamps. For something like that, you'll get better pressure in the right directions for a good glue bond with a band clamp.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Chris Curl said:


> if you have some money for a router but, a lock miter bit would fit the bill
> 
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_lockmiter.html


I have that bit and like it.

George


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

I have the lock miter bit as well. However, for this project, I would opt for adding splines after the miter is glued. It's a very simple way to greatly strengthen the miter joint while adding beauty at the same time.

What I refer to as splines, cabinet man calls keys. Look at the photo he linked. It's very simple to do on the table saw.


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

The miters in the picture aren't pushed tight, just laying there to show what I'm trying to do. Maybe I just didn't give the glue enough time to set up before moving it to glue the other joints. I will try it again and let them set overnight and then try and put a spline in the corners. 

Thanks


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

Sorry double post.


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## wdkits1 (Jan 16, 2009)

I have made lots of boxes using mitered corners. I add strength to the joint by drilling holes in the miters using a 5/16 bit in the dremel tool. Adds lots of glue surface . Never had a miter fail using this method. I pull the joints together using packing tape stretched tight.


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

I cut a sliver off each end to get rid of the dried glue. The miters came out a little better this time. Maybe I need to go over my miter saw to make sure it's aligned accurate. I have a good blade on it, think it was around 100 bucks or so.

But I re glued them and used masking tape this time instead of corner clamps so hopefully it will hold. I'm going to let them dry over night this time. Last time I only let them dry about an hour using tight bond II glue so that may have been why they just snapped apart.

I'm also going to go to the store and get some maple or something to make some splines. See how those will turn out!

Thanks again for the help.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

wdkits1 said:


> I have made lots of boxes using mitered corners. I add strength to the joint by drilling holes in the miters using a 5/16 bit in the dremel tool. Adds lots of glue surface . Never had a miter fail using this method. I pull the joints together using packing tape stretched tight.
> View attachment 90059


sorry ... i'm having a hard time visualizing this ... can you provide any pics of the process?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

". Last time I only let them dry about an hour using tight bond II glue so that may have been why they just snapped apart."

We now see the reason for this thread.

George


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## wdkits1 (Jan 16, 2009)

Chris
Here is a link to my blog where I go into detail on my method for constructing my boxes.
http://midlothianwoodworks.wordpress.com/buffalo-box-intarsia-a-work-in-progress/


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## ctf15 (Nov 19, 2013)

ponch37300 said:


> I cut a sliver off each end to get rid of the dried glue. The miters came out a little better this time. Maybe I need to go over my miter saw to make sure it's aligned accurate. I have a good blade on it, think it was around 100 bucks or so.
> 
> But I re glued them and used masking tape this time instead of corner clamps so hopefully it will hold. I'm going to let them dry over night this time. Last time I only let them dry about an hour using tight bond II glue so that may have been why they just snapped apart.
> 
> ...


Also...when glueing up end grain, I apply glue- watch it soak up for a couple of minutes- then reapply.


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## Bleedinblue (Mar 4, 2014)

wdkits1 said:


> Chris
> Here is a link to my blog where I go into detail on my method for constructing my boxes.
> http://midlothianwoodworks.wordpress.com/buffalo-box-intarsia-a-work-in-progress/



I know this conversation was a month old, but...I get what you did, I just don't get why it works. REMOVING material, leaving LESS contact surface area? It seems to go against the usual rationale.


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## Gary300 (Mar 28, 2014)

I would glue it back up, get it straight then use a brad nailer to shoot 3 or 4 per joint. HF has them for cheap, but don't use the HF brads. Get some brads at HD or Lowes.


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## jodasm (Oct 25, 2012)

There is a glue called. Corner weld that is made for end grain use that it works pretty good


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