# Finishing my cornhole boards



## JoesterVT (Sep 5, 2009)

I built a set or cornhole boards. For those not familiar, its a bean-bag toss game with a 4 x 2 foot deck with a 6"inch hole at one end. Anyway, I'm ready to finish them and have a few questions.

What I'd really like to do is stain the deck a light color to bring out the woodgrain in the beautiful oak plywood I used. Then, I'd like to paint some details (stripes most likely) over the stained deck. I also plan to apply some decals, then go over the top with some kind of clear coat.

So my questions...

1) Can I stain the deck and then paint over it? If so, what product should I use?

2) What should I use for my final clear coat?

Thanks!


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## JoesterVT (Sep 5, 2009)

hmm....thought sure someone would have an answer for me. I'm open to any ideas....


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## LouLewyLewis (Sep 2, 2009)

In answering your question, I would like to know a few things if I may.

1) when you say light stain, do you have a color of lite stain in mind?

2) is this going to be used inside only or exterior at times.?

3) will it be a light color stain, or a pickled effect.?

4) and last is there going to be any children chewing on it.?


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## JoesterVT (Sep 5, 2009)

LouLewyLewis said:


> In answering your question, I would like to know a few things if I may.
> 
> 1) when you say light stain, do you have a color of lite stain in mind?
> 
> ...


Lets see...

1) I was thinking a very light, almost natural color....just enough to bring out the grain a bit.

2) This is played outdoors normally

3) I'm not sure what a pickled effect is, but if you think about the look of a wooden basketball floor with paint and decals, thats sort of the look I'm going for.

4) No kids chewing on it...

Thanks!


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## LouLewyLewis (Sep 2, 2009)

A lot of painters have curtain brands they like best. I myself like min wax stains. And marine spar varnishes.

On a scrap of oat do some tests as to the color you are trying to achieve. 

1) Do to it will be out side , I would suggest you use a gel stain.

2) Put some varnish in a container to work out of, just a little and mix a little gel stain in it and stir.Now test it on your scrap oak to see if the color is what you want. Add or decrease the amount of stain until you get the color you desire. After you got your samples made , let dry for 24 hours. After dry , pick which sample you like best.

3) Now sand your corn hole board lightly to open the pores in the wood,dust,tack cloth wipe to remove remaining dust. Do not wipe with mineral spirits, as it will leave a oily film behind that may inter fer with the varnish stain from sinking into the wood.

4) Now take your varnish stain and due your hole project. let dry for 24 hrs.when dry if is the shade you wanted then great, if it needs darker than repeat step 4

5) After step 4 to finish put 2 additional coats of plain varnish with no color in it , to give it that 3 coats needed .let dry 24hrs between coat, and lightly sand between coats and use tack cloths to remove dust.

6) Now let whole project dry for 30 days to cure out. After 30 days you have a hard surface to do the painting and decals you wanted to do.

7) Over a oil varnish , for the paint part, use a oil paint. Do not put a latex over a oil varnish, due to it has nothing to bite on to. And it will peal off in a short time. So 2 coats of oil paint for your design.

8) After letting oil paint cure for at least 7 days.Now you can place your decals.

9) After placing your decals on , if you want everything to have a extra coating of protection , then give it at least 1 more coat of varnish. let dry for at least 7 days to cure.

Side note. As with all oil varnishes, and oil urethane s it will over time start to take on that g oldish hue. I find it desirable due to the antique look

So I suggest min wax gel stain , and Benjamin Moore marine spar varnish , and good exterior oil paint for design, which you can also get a BM.


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## JoesterVT (Sep 5, 2009)

Well...that whole process sounds a lot more than I have the skill and patience for. I may just give up on my woodgrain idea and just paint the suckers....


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## LouLewyLewis (Sep 2, 2009)

I have given you the process for toning it. Not knowing the exact color of stain you might want, i gave you a way to build up color till you get the one you want.

Now here is the just plain staining with a color you definitely want.

1) after sanding your wood, dust off, and use tack cloth.

2) Dip brush in gel stain and apply to wood piece , work in sections, then with clean cloth wipe off excess.

3) Let stained piece dry over 24 hours.

4) Apply 1 coat of varnish or polyurethane, let dry for 24 hours.when dry lightly sand to remove wood hairs that has risen. dust off ,and use tack cloth to remove remaining dust.

5) Apply 2nd coat of varnish or polyurethane. let dry 48 hrs.

6) Now apply your oil paint graphics and art work. let dry 24 hours for each coat of painted artwork , apply 2 coats.

7) Apply decal after 30 days due to the coatings needs time to cure.

And this is the quick version to do it. Just remember you are working on soft uncured coating in this version and any mistakes will be noticeable .

It isn't as hard as it sounds, but does take time. But all good things come to those who take the time. And you can do this ....


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## claypot (Jun 9, 2016)

I used semi gloss latex paint and it doesn't
seem to dry and is to sticky what now?????????


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

claypot said:


> I used semi gloss latex paint and it doesn't
> seem to dry and is to sticky what now?????????


Make sure you have plenty of air movement and it should dry.....

I dont know why you posted this on such an old post, but I hope if your finishing cornhole boards you dont listen to the advice posted above. You dont put a spar varnish on cornhole boards. That finish is way to slick of a finish. The bags will slide right off the boards!


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## aghir (Jan 11, 2015)

subscribed to this thread, this seems like a very interesting thread


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