# Base molding for a cabinet



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I need to ask the experts a question. How would you attach base molding to a cabinet (wine cabinet) on three sides. I have it cut to fit but would really like to not use nails. I don't have confidence in my pin nailer. The wood is 3/4 inch walnut. I'd rather not use the 18 ga brad nailer, but might have to.

Do y'all glue the joints before attaching it to the cabinet? If so, what should I use? I have some liquid nails construction adhesive that I was planning to use but I thought I would ask first.

Note the cabinet and the trim is finished. All I have left to do is attach the molding, install the drawers and doors.

I have about 12 hours to mull this over. 

Note: I did pre-drill the cabinet so I could attach the molding by running fine thread pocket screws in from the underside of the cabinet and skip the nails. Note that the holes are 1/8th inch and not pocket holes.

Edit: I forgot to mention the molding is 3/4 x 3 1/4 inch walnut.
Here is a couple of pics.
Thanks
Mike


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

What's the molding profile? 
You could also screw from the inside out to the molding. 
If the molding isn't supporting the cab you could bore the carcass and molding for dowels or splines then glue them in to both. 
How about sliding dovetail joints


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Ghidrah said:


> What's the molding profile?
> You could also screw from the inside out to the molding.
> If the molding isn't supporting the cab you could bore the carcass and molding for dowels or splines then glue them in to both.
> How about sliding dovetail joints


Thanks for the ideas.

I like the first one and that may be what I do...screw from the inside.
The molding is simple flat stock with a cove profile I made on the router table. Nothing fancy.

So the question is glue or no glue for the two joints? I don't really want to use super glue, but something that sets up quickly would be good.

Here is what the molding looks like.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

If it were a consideration, with the stain already in place will glue adhere? I never tried that before. As for the screwage, I'd glue the 45s and fix the corners with double screws then I'd elongate double cuts for screws at the middle and rear of the of the carcass sides and front for expansion then soap/wax up the half of the screws not in the trim for slippage.

PS, is big foot kith or Kin?


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Glue will not adhere to the finish so not really an option.

Since you already drilled holes with the intent of screwing from the backside I'd just do that. I never glue the joints on trim, others do.


Looks nice BTW.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Chamfer said:


> Glue will not adhere to the finish so not really an option.
> 
> Since you already drilled holes with the intent of screwing from the backside I'd just do that. I never glue the joints on trim, others do.
> 
> ...


Thanks. The 45 deg angles are raw. The clock is ticking. Time for me to do something, even if it is wrong.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

I was referring to gluing the trim to the cabinet. I assumed the joints were unfinished. 

Neither way is right or wrong as far as gluing the joints. If the joints fit well than IMO its not needed. I wouldnt let that hold you up from finishing it though. 

Attach the trim to the cabinet with screws from behind and its up to you whether or not you glue the joints. IMHO its not going to make or break the project. 


If you're still unsure just glue them, its not going to hurt anything.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

Any resistance to expansion/contraction is a good thing especially if you're anywhere around water and have high humidity, the Cape has an abundance of both.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks for all the advice. The molding is on. The Liquid nails didn't hold...just a waste of time. I guess I put it on too thin.

I wound up shooting several brad nails in the molding and then screwing it from the underside of the cabinet. A little touch up with the crayon and the nail marks disappeared.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Glad it worked out for you.

FWIW, next time if you get a second set of hands you can dry fit the trim and clamp it. Then just use the screws and avoid the brads altogether.


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Oh, and pics or it didn't happen.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Chamfer said:


> Oh, and pics or it didn't happen.


I'm working on it. :yes: As soon as I get the film developed, I will post some.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Finished and delivered. My buddy and his wife are very happy with it. And that makes me very happy 2! :thumbsup:

More pictures here...
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/mt-stringer-9532/albums/terry-s-liquor-cabinet/


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Very nice!


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

Wow that babies tall, will you be fixing it to the wall?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Ghidrah said:


> Wow that babies tall, will you be fixing it to the wall?


Did I mention it is heavy? :yes:

That will be up to him to anchor it. I will mention it to him. Thanks.


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## Ghidrah (Mar 2, 2010)

Chidrins young and old, dogs, Santa Claus, tornado alley, mental deficients, large parrots, so many things. One Xmas my late parrot Hammer flew to the tree in a panic, panicked worse, flapped his parrot ass off trying to figure out what the hell was wrong and pulled the tree down. After that I began tying the tree to the plant bracket above the window.


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