# shaker type table build



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

Well im going to give the build thread a try. Im a rookie so feel free to chime in if im doing something wrong or if you have any questions. Im making this table out of some older cherry i have that id like to use up, its pretty knotty stuff. I started off cutting and glueing some pieces to make the legs, i didnt have anything thick enough to make it a solid piece so they are laminated.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

For the table top i used the darkest cherry i had it does have some large knots but that really dosnt bother me. i glued up 3 pieces and when they dried i cut it down to size. I couldnt use my miter saw because it was to large and i did not make a cross cut sled yet so i used a circular saw. After i cut it i realsied it looked angled and checked it with a square and it was way off. so i adjusted and cut it again.


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Nice project, great wood choice. I like the Shaker style, so I'll be watching this one.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

After that i unclamped the legs and ran them through the jointer to true up the one edge. I then got them close to the finaly dimension on the table saw and then ran them through the planer for final thickness.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

Brink i saw a few pictures of the shakes you made and that why i decided to make one. I really liked the 2 you made with the dovetail inlay but im not going to even try something like that. Im not sure how the drawers works though. Is it supported on the bottom at the sides?


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks, that made my day.

The drawers are supported by a couple runners, glued to the aprons.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

That helps alot thanks!


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

I cut all the tennons on the table saw and cut a little to deep then cleaned them up with a chisel. . Then i marked out the mortises with my marking gauge and maked the start and stop point with pencil so it was easyer to see. I used a carbide spiral bit (first time using it) It worked *alot *better than the staight bit ive used before. I still took 2 passes for each mortise. Then i cleaned up the edges with a chisel.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

i cut the grooves in the side pieces between the legs for the table top holds. I played around for a go bit trying to get my taper jig set up right and actually sent a scrap flying across the room. There has to be a better way to cut the tapers than i did because it seemed a little dangerous. I was fine untill i got to the 4th cut there all the side being cut was tapered. It was very hard to keep the leg straight. I ended up using a scrap tapered peice to give the leg support but sometimes that would not move with the leg and id have to back out. But with all the trouble i had i still got 4 legs to come out with pretty even taper.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Looking good. Nice tutorial and pics. I'll be checking on this one.


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Question time...are you tapering all four sides?


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

Yes I tapered all 4 sides but after looking at a few pictures none of the tables have all 4 tapered lol i guess mine will be unique.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

The legs are a little on the big side but i think it still looks good. Got the frame glued up and im starting on the drawer but im not sure what material to use for the bottom i was thinking about 1/4" birch plywood but ive never used plywood before. I was at homedepot and looked at some but is seemed like it would not provide enough support. might glue up some cherry 1/2" thick and use that but im worried about it expanding in the spring and breaking the drawer.


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Wow, that's looking so sharp! 

I have seen legs tapered on all four sides. I think the ones you did look good.

Drawer bottoms. I'm not a fan of 1/4 ply. One trick I've done is to take 3/8 ply, and rabbet the edges down to a true 1/4". It'll fit nice and snug in the grooves, gives nice support.

Solid wood bottoms I like. Here's a drawer I just finished. 3/8" cherry, rabbeted to 1/4" and hand planned to raise the panel. It fits loose in the drawer, now. I allow almost 3/16" for movement.


----------



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

That looks awesome! Really, well done! I think the legs look more "modern" than shaker but that's ok!!! They look great!

I'll be waiting for updates!

~tom


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looking very good. I'm enjoying this build. Keep it coming!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Table looks good...nicely done so far. I would steer away from solid wood bottoms if you can. I use mostly 1/4" hardwood plywood with no problems. I don't captivate the bottom with a 4 way groove, rather, cut the back of the drawer short...slide in the bottom. A good snug fit will square the drawer, and then fasten to the underside of the back. I don't glue the bottoms either.










 







.


----------



## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

Looks awesome!!!! Enjoying this build.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

I got a good bit done today. I glued up some runners but goffed up and put them to low. So i had to cut a rabbet in the buttom runner to make the drawer ride just above the horizontal piece in the front. I then looked threw my pile of older planed cherry and found the perfect board for the front of the drawer.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

I used some lighter cherry dor the drawer bottom. I planned it to a little ticker than 3/8 glued the 2 pieces together them planned to final thickness. I set up my router table to cut a rabbet so the edge thickness of the drawer bottom was 1/4". I dug threw my old cherry pile again and found some peices for the sides. I cut a dado in all 4 pieces. I left room for wood expansion. I used miters even though i absolutely hate them lol. They did not line up perfectly when i glued them up but they looked ok. Feel free to laugh at my clamping setup for miters. I basicly just clamp 2 sides then put claps everywhere imaginalbe until things like like there staring to line up.:laughing:


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

I took a break and put up an new garge door motor. then got back to work. I sanded the drawe and the table i finished with that wiped them down took them over to my finishing room. wiped them down with DNA then put a coat of BLO on. As soon as i was done i remembered i wanted to put dovetail spines in the corners of the drawer. I probably should have waited a day or 2 for the BLO to dry before i cut then but i did not feel like waiting. So i cut them made the splines and glued them in. I also routered the table top and coated that in BLO.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

forgot some pics.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

For the splines i cut them big and hand plane them down until they fit snug.


----------



## Eric13 (Jan 15, 2012)

That's looking great Kevin. I really enjoy these build threads.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

Well the drawers done so now its just finishing, putting the top on and knob.


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

This looks soooo good! Love the way the color deepens when you put on the BLO. Great solution for the drawer runner, too.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Kevin very nice job on the build. And descriptions. Don't think I've ever seen a dovetail spline, nice idea.


----------



## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

Really looking forward to seeing the finished project there Kevin!  Amazing work thus far, love the simple and eloquent design! :thumbsup:


----------



## Nick6685 (Mar 23, 2011)

I think I'm addicted to these build threads, so much information! I like the tapered legs, it's gives it a very sharp look, and those dovetail splines are amazing, I might have to attempt something like that soon. Very inspirational thread!


----------



## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Another great project !!!*

Wow. I need to get busy on something. :laughing:


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

The dovetail spline is from what i heard one of the strongest miter joints out there. I stole the idea from Daren Ill post some pictures of how strong it is


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

Daren made a much nices one and i just coppied the idea to see if it worked. I believe its called a C or S chair The one i made is 3/4" thick and has 4 splines on each miter joint. I can stand on the back and bounce up and down unlike in the pic where i was more to the front.


----------



## Kevin07 (Feb 19, 2009)

got 2 coats of poly on so far


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Kevin, that looks great, well done!


----------



## hansmike (Sep 5, 2010)

the drawer looks awesome! Maybe you could just leave it open all the time..


----------



## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

That's a damn handsome table. 

Just when I start getting good with dovetails somebody shows me something cool like those splines (I hate miters too)! Next project maybe.


----------



## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Wonderful post and beautiful table Kevin. That's some good work!


----------



## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Thanks for the build thread, Kevin.
The finished table looks great.


----------



## dat (Nov 11, 2010)

that does look nice,


----------



## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

That is a sweet looking table. Love the dovetail splines too.


----------

