# Router Table Build



## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

I decided to make a thread on this after a number of steps had already been completed. The most important however are still to come. This is the top being glued. The top is two 3/4" MDF glued together and hit up with a trim bit to keep the edges true. The edges are maple. They'll be rounded over due to a little snag with the trim bit.  I'll keep updating this with new stuff.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Sorry I missed your intro Jimmy,

Welcome!

Nice job so far.

What are the dimensions of this top?

It may be me but it seems a bit small.

If I'm right you may want to reconsider unless this table is for a compact router and fence.

What router, plate, fence do you have in mind?



Jeff


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

rounded over is a good thing. sharp edges are a bad thing.

how do you intend to attach the router?


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

The top is only 19.5 x 25.5. It's meant to be small. 

I have a simple aluminum plate. It doesn't have a lift. I'll upgrade once I get tired of changing bits the manual way.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

That top is small but not too small.

It was hard to establish scale when I was looking at the pic.

Your project is going nicely.

I've built two router tables and neither one has a lift.

The right combination of plate and router will allow you to make bit changes and height adjustments from above.

A router lift isn't a necessity for most of us. Having said that, those who have them say that they increase accuracy. It seems that they would also make setups faster.

The right combination of plate and router will allow you to make bit changes and height adjustments from above.

I use the Rockler plates. They are compatible with lots of routers.

http://www.rockler.com/m/product.cfm?page=31820


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

also, you can get grizzley plates for about $13 each. even that is more than i want to spend ... i used 1/2" plywood.


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

Rounded and sanded the edges. Installed t-tracks


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

So I have a question. The top is high pressure laminate from Nevamar. How much sanding with this thing withstand before the white starts to disappear? I'm asking because I wanted to sand the maple more but didnt want to mess up the edges of the white. What do you think?


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

a view from the side may reveal the color depth in the laminate. i would suspect you could hit it some without changing color, but i would not rely on it. cover the laminate with some tape to protect it, or use a sanding jig where it won't touch the lam. also, you may consider having as much real estate in front of the router as possible. you don't need much room behind it except for the fence/vac.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

If your edging is flush with laminate leave it alone or sand by hand using a block with an edge guide.

Thus can be easily made by gluing up some 3/4 stock at right angles (butt joint).

Make the exposed portion of the top piece the same dimension as the thickness of your edging.

Use spray adhesive to fix sandpaper to the bottom of this piece *edit: 
-trim the sand paper flush with the edges of the block-: and you'll find it impossible to mar your laminate.

Plus 1 on what Tim said re plate placement also.


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

Placement is still up in the air. Thanks for the advice though. It all depends on how deep the fence ends up being.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Hey Jimmy, have you considered building your fence?


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

Yah. I have a fence bracket. I'll probably use some 1/2 plywood. Maybe MDF. I want a 3" face with UHMW and maybe a t-track above it. I have some left over. 

Why do you ask? Got some free tips burning a hole in your pocket?


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

No just curious.

My fences are Craigslist finds.

Some of the folks here have built very nice fences.

The t-track in the fence face is a good idea for feather boards, stops and a bit guard.

Other features you might consider would be a tall fence of you plan on routing pieces on the vertical, dust extraction, a two piece fence that will accommodate different size (radius) bits.

I have to get to work now but I'll try to dig up some plans for you.

PM me your e.mail address if you'd like me to send you some PDF plans.


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

I can't pm yet. Guess I'm too new. Whatcha got for plans?


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

So I start the fence tomorrow and had this CRAZY idea today. I have this aluminum 1/2" rod (2 actually) and linear bearings (4) to fit. How cool would it be if the table face had a large groove in it on either side of the t-track with the aluminum rod mounted in it below or flush with the surface. I could mount the fence to the bearings and the fence would slide back and forth and clamp down with the cam clamps. The only issue is that the bearings and their housing is an inch tall and the table is only 1 1/2" thick. Makes me want to start all over again to make it work.


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

Did some more work today. All disappointing. A guide board slipped when making the primary face opening so there's an extra 1/8" on one side of the router plate. 
The UHMW I got off eBay is crappy and melts a little on the table saw and melts a lot with a router. 
The aluminum fence bracket I ordered came with no bit opening so I spent an hour with a dremel, a hacksaw and a file trying to make a decent one. 
I'll post pics when I can.


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)




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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

Radio silence from everyone here. Still posting progress though. The cabinet was already made. It's meant to be small. I added a hinge to the top to make bit changes easier. I used a skil router as the permanent router for the table. I have a bosch for everything else.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

looks great! you might consider putting in some drawers in the lower section and enclosing the upper to help with dust collection...


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Gray job Jimmy!

Out of curiosity what are the horizontal inside dimensions of the top section of the cabinet?

You might be able to install one of these horizontally in that space and pipe it to a vacuum on the side or behind the cabinet

http://www.rockler.com/m/product.cfm?page=11312

Also consider one of these to run your router and vac off one easily accessible switch.

http://www.kregtool.com/MultiPurpose-Router-Table-Switch-Prodview.html

Could you post pics of the back and end of the fence?

You could modify this design to fit onto one side your cabinet and put pegboard on the other side to hang other accessories.

http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/store/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=31_DP_00769


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

If you build a bit storage rack like the one above you might consider using these.

100 Nylon Spacer Bushings .257 I.D. 1/2 O.D. Length 1/2:Amazon:Automotive

They will allow you to drill all the holes 1/2" diameter and insert these into the holes that will hold 1/4" shank bits.

That way you can organize your bits more easily by type.


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## MORRIS76 (May 6, 2013)

Very nice work on the top! I like the edge banding you did. I have a cabinet similar to yours and I'm thinking of putting a small vacuum I already have in the space below my table and running the hose through a hole in the back and up to the fence hose connection.


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## JimmyB1775 (Mar 30, 2013)

Drawers and dust collection is coming. Time is limited.


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