# Concrete walls in shop



## Rdog (Nov 14, 2013)

I am trying to set up shelves, storage, pegboard, etc. in the garage shop. There are two walls that are concrete. Whats the best (cheap and easy) way of attaching 2x strapping to the concrete...drill and use tapcons, or use a powder actuated tool? 

I've used both in the past for attaching sills to a pad, but never on a wall.

I'm trying to avoid building entire interior walls, and just want to add the strapping where needed to then attach whatever else I want.

Is there another option?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you are just putting up pegboard common drywall anchors would do. Anything of any real weight I would use toggle bolts if it's hollow block. If it's solid concrete I would probably use a wedge anchor. I've had about as much luck with drywall screws at Tapcon screws. Neither hold real great. The powder actuated tools are nice but I've never needed one often enough to make it worth the investment.


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## 44260 (Aug 29, 2013)

I have cinder block walls and I've used Tapcon screws and I do not like them. They are a bit more work but I like using the plastic anchors in the cinder block and screw through the wood into the plastic anchors. If it is solid concrete I agree with Steve and use wedge anchors


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

Cinder blocks are quite fragile. Use toggles, not wedges. Wedges can destroy them.

I don't use powder actuated unless prints specify them, they're more trouble than they're worth.


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## Tree Hugger (Sep 1, 2011)

Solid concrete I use these https://www.amazon.com/Powers-Fastening-Innovations-05512-Anchor/dp/B00ITG78HA


They are pricy but worth it.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Tapcons work alright, i use them in my basement for securing electrical conduit, but i dont know that id trust them to hold up shelves. Im not convinced on the pullout strength of them. For a shelf id be more inclined to trust something like a wedge anchor that has a mechanical means of forcing it to anchor in the hole in the concrete, but as has been mentioned i dont believe those work in cinderblock


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Years ago I remodeled the main area of my store. I used my 22 cal. powered nail gun to hang 1x2 furring strips on the concrete block walls. Then covered with decorative peg board. Much, much easier than trying any other method that I knew about.

Not only were items for sale hung from the peg board. shelves were also installed.

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> If you are just putting up pegboard common drywall anchors would do. Anything of any real weight I would use toggle bolts if it's hollow block. If it's solid concrete I would probably use a wedge anchor. I've had about as much luck with drywall screws at Tapcon screws. Neither hold real great. The powder actuated tools are nice but I've never needed one often enough to make it worth the investment.


They single shot tools are not all that expensive. About $50 on amazon. They can also be rented for one time use.

George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> They single shot tools are not all that expensive. About $50 on amazon. They can also be rented for one time use.
> 
> George


That isn't too bad, I think the HF one was closer to 80. I probably only need to shoot about six nails once a year so I just improvise.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

I've had pegboard hanging on Tapcons for decades without issues. I don't hang millstones, tho - 

for shelving I run 2x4 uprights to the floor joist above, attach with drywall screws. on narrower shelves (16") I use a Tapcon toward the bottom just to keep them 'up against the wall'


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## Rdog (Nov 14, 2013)

Yes, I should have said its a poured concrete foundation wall, not block.

I was hoping to save both money and materials and not frame up floor to ceiling studs w/sill and top plate, and instead just have sections where I wanted, like above a work bench in one area, etc.

The down side is I don't have the rotary hammer drill, nor the powder driven nail gun. I think the single shot ramset tools run ~$25-30, far cheaper than buying a new drill...but I am not going to need it much, where I can see likely getting more use out of the drill.

My fear was the ramset tool may chip out the concrete, as this is ~35 yr old foundation, it may be to hard and brittle? (if this was the floor I was talking about I'd use the ramset, just never did this on a wall.)

I guess I'll try drilling with my normal drill and see how it goes for now, and look into the wedge systems.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Rdog said:


> Yes, I should have said its a poured concrete foundation wall, not block.
> 
> I was hoping to save both money and materials and not frame up floor to ceiling studs w/sill and top plate, and instead just have sections where I wanted, like above a work bench in one area, etc.
> 
> ...


Old concrete can be hard. Too hard for the ram set. I had this problem on a rental condominium. Could not drive the nails for the tack strip. Rug people had to use adhesive.

George


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

it was earlier this year that I got a new hand drill - and it's the first I've ever owned that has a 'hammer' feature.

not sure I can recount how many holes for plastic & lead anchors I've drilled with nothing but plain ole' masonry bits..... it's entirely doable.


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## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

Been a few years since I've done this, like about 30, but you can get a cheap hammer drill at Harbor Freight for 25 to 35 bucks. Drill your holes and use concrete/masonry nails with a good concrete/masonry epoxy and it should hold well. Worked in the past and today's epoxies are far better than what we had 30 years ago.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Kerrys said:


> Been a few years since I've done this, like about 30, but you can get a cheap hammer drill at Harbor Freight for 25 to 35 bucks. Drill your holes and use concrete/masonry nails with a good concrete/masonry epoxy and it should hold well. Worked in the past and today's epoxies are far better than what we had 30 years ago.


A number of years ago I had a number of holes to drill in brick and concrete. I got a "cheap" Black and Decker and it was still a lot of work. 

Sometime later I got a good Craftsman and could not believe just how much easier it was to do the job. 

The message is be careful with "chea;" hammer drills.

George


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

tapcons have a high shear strength, but poor pull out strength. will work fine if you run the board all the way to the floor, and/or up to the sill plate.


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## Rickcin (Aug 9, 2016)

GeorgeC said:


> Old concrete can be hard. Too hard for the ram set. I had this problem on a rental condominium. Could not drive the nails for the tack strip. Rug people had to use adhesive.
> 
> George


I have the exact same situation and decided to frame out a section, adjacent to & behind my workbench with 2 X 4's, about 10 lf.
I will hang metal pegboard , Wall Control System from Amazon and have built in tool storage in-between the studs (16 " oc ) where there is no pegboard. I left a 4" space behind the 2 X 4's for this since that aligned with my floor joist above.


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## LTRR-CB (Sep 7, 2016)

A good hammer drill is an awesome tool. I have a Bosch 1199VSR and have used a Hitachi DH24PE. The Bosch has a standard 1/2" chuck and drill/hammer functions. The Hitachi takes special locking fluted bits - a hammer drill. Both do a good job in concrete walls. I like the nail/epoxy idea although the wedge anchors should work especially if the holes are made with a good drill and a good bit so the anchors fit well.


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