# Finish on a Walnut (Veneer?) Dining Room Set



## Janet (Aug 23, 2008)

I'm trying to resurrect a dining room set that may or may not be walnut veneer--->I'm not sure if it's solid walnut. The set is at least 35 years old (likely older) and there are many cloudy white areas on the table (which was covered with glass) and the chairs get sticky when I hold on to them (as in when I was washing them). Does anyone have any ideas as to what kind of finish was used on this set that would cause it to get sticky? Second, any suggestions as to how I can get rid of the white areas on the table. Third, what can I do to the chairs to stop them from getting sticky with heat and/or moisture. 

I currently have the table covered with mineral oil which it seems to absorb in certain areas. 

Thanx in advance!


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## johnjf0622 (Feb 8, 2008)

Hello Janet 
Welcome to the site. It definitely sounds like it is in need of refinishing. The on way I usually know if it is a veneer by looking at the edges. Does the grain on the top follow down the edges? (If the edges of the top are visible that is.) If it is a leaf table look at those edges that may give a clue. If you are able to post pics with close ups that would help too. Ran you question by the wife (she was in the furniture biz for over 20 years) and pics would definitely help. We have an old Bennington Pine piece and that had the same problem with the sticky spots. 

John


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

More than likely the finish has been damaged over the years by some of the cleaning,waxing,dusting,etc products applied to it. It would be helpful to learn what the finish is now. A few tests can usually determine this. If I were to hazard a guess now I would say lacguer.

Regards

Jerry


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## Janet (Aug 23, 2008)

Well, I've managed to eradicate the white hazy marks with one of those household 'magic eraser' type sponges---->and it was like magic but alas, it also seems to have stripped off all of the finish (which I now believe is oil). The 'magic eraser' has also managed to strip the goopy/tacky finish from the one chair (that I tested it on) and now I'm wondering how best to proceed?

Should I continue to strip the finish on the table (completely) and chairs....or simply get rid of the nasty bits (as I have done) and move on.

And...if semi or permently stripped, what kind of finish to use? Could I use another oil finish or wax finish? I neither want nor need to use any of the "____thanes".


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## johnjf0622 (Feb 8, 2008)

Janet
Are you able to post a picture of the table? If you stripped a portion of it in spots then you have to look at matching the new with the old. If the table is that old chances of it being a poly I think are slim it is probity it is lacquer like stated above. A pic would help getting a answer.

John


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Janet said:


> Well, I've managed to eradicate the white hazy marks with one of those household 'magic eraser' type sponges---->and it was like magic but alas, it also seems to have stripped off all of the finish (which I now believe is oil). The 'magic eraser' has also managed to strip the goopy/tacky finish from the one chair (that I tested it on) and now I'm wondering how best to proceed?
> 
> Should I continue to strip the finish on the table (completely) and chairs....or simply get rid of the nasty bits (as I have done) and move on.
> 
> And...if semi or permently stripped, what kind of finish to use? Could I use another oil finish or wax finish? I neither want nor need to use any of the "____thanes".



You could just continue with your process, but some little voice in my head tells me that no matter what finish you apply over, that it will not look uniform. If you use an oil or a wax finish, there will be maintenance to the finish in the future.

My suggestion is to chemically strip the entire finish. You could use a waterbased stripper, like Citri-Strip, or non-MC Aircraft stripper, which are more friendly than a MC (methylene chloride) stripper. You may have to do more than one application. Extreme care and protection should be used when working with strippers.

Your most trouble free finish would be IMO, a wipe on varnish, that you can make yourself. Your basic mix would be 1/3 interior varnish, 1/3 BLO (boiled linseed oil), and 1/3 mineral spirits, which can be of the low odor type. Or you could just buy a "finish", which may be called "Danish Oil Finish", or "Tung Oil Finish" or any variety of finishes which are basically a mix.

Using several wipe on applications, and sanding between cured applications with 320x (with the grain direction), you'll have a nice finish.


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## Janet (Aug 23, 2008)

Sadly, I'm unable to post a pic...and I should also add, that I really don't know the technical terms (nor, if I were to be truthful, what I'm talking about:blink. 

Table: In the places where I've removed the 'finish', the colour is notably lighter, less reflective and the grain of the wood seems somewhat 'raised'? I picked up a product called 'Restor A Finish' in 'walnut color' and am wondering if I should proceed to remove the entire 'finish' before applying it, or attempt to touch up the areas that have been 'stripped'? And having written that, I'm kinda thinking I already know the answer--->take it all off.

Chairs: I was absolutely thrilled to be able to remove the tacky finish...and...well, that was only from the back of the chair (which is all I'm really concerned about) But, along with the goop, came the colour. I'm wondering if I can use the same product to touch up the colour and more importantly, if I risk it transfering onto my clothing when I use the chairs? Does anyone have any experience with 'Restor A Finish'? According to the directions, I cannot put polyurethane on top of it and further recommends that I use wax on top of it!?!?!?---->More goopy build-up?

I'm not looking to hold onto this set forever (3 years?) and am simply trying to make it bearable for the time being. To wit, my wish list is as follows: remove all the cloudy bits/areas from the table and restore some colour and/or finish to it (it will later be covered with glass); find something to apply to the back of the chairs that will even out the colour without making them sticky. Oh and before I forget, bundles of crisp $100 bills:laughing:--->just call me princess!

Your thoughts and comments are much appreciated and thanks for bearing with me!


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## johnjf0622 (Feb 8, 2008)

As a matter of fact yes my wife uses it. She started using it when she sold furniture and it was what they recommended for touching up scratches and such problems. The wax they are talking about doesn't leave the film you would think. She still uses it on the wood and there is no build up like you would think. If you are going to only hold on to it for a little while longer and looking to just make it look presentable, then use it. You are going to put glass over it so use the wax and you should be fine the dust wont settle on it where you would need to do it again. As far as the chairs go use like a Murphy's soap and remove the goop and then try treating that. It seems the finish is breaking down on you considering the age.

John


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## Janet (Aug 23, 2008)

Hi John...Quick question....has your wife ever used the 'Restor A Finish' on items that come in direct contact with clothing--->as in the back of a chair?

Thanks to all for your advice!


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## johnjf0622 (Feb 8, 2008)

High Janet
OK she used it on tables that had cloth runners sitting on them. Our chairs are black distressed like a country style. But she said the way she used it was she put it on heavy and let it soak for a few mins. And then she would buff it out real good and let it dry. That is the part you want to make sure of that it is dry. And you should be good. You can always test it with a paper towel. Then buff the wax in with a clean cotton cloth. She never had a problem with the color transferring onto fabric. Hope this helps you out.

John


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## SwordofGabriel (Sep 6, 2008)

Hi Janet, 
Sounds like you just had a build up of furniture polish over a wax paste finish that accumulated a period of time. It would be best to continue to strip the pieces all the way down to the bare wood and start over. I would reccomend going back with a paste wax such as LIBERON Black Bison Wax or maybe Briwax. hope this helps


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