# Shop Built Morticing Machine



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Here is another idea I thought I would share. After searching the net for plans. I found some were too simple and limited and others required too much work and I would have been better off buying one. This is 95% complete and will have at least one other table that can be added just by loosening 4 nuts, sliding one off and the other on. 

With this setup I will cut mortices and tenons. 







Al B

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## MTL (Jan 21, 2012)

that is some pretty sturdy looking aluminum extrusion you have there. where did you get it?


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Other views. I'm sure I have less than $100 in it

Al B

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

MTL said:


> that is some pretty sturdy looking aluminum extrusion you have there. where did you get it?


eBay. Cheap. It's found searching 8020 aluminum.

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Duck69 (Jan 27, 2011)

Wow, do you have step by step pictures of the build?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Very cool! :thumbsup:


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## adrianmcmanus (Nov 9, 2011)

Well done Al


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Al,

I really like that jig you made! I did look on ebay for the aluminum extrusion, and I am surprised at how cheap it is. That linear bearing is where the cost is at! do you have 4 on this jig.... 2 for depth, and 2 for width of the jig, or do you have 4 on each one? I gotta say.... This is really slick.

VERY NICE JOB!!!!:thumbsup:

Fabian


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Very nice job! Where did you buy the 8? linear bearings? Cheapest I could find were $28+ each!


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

thegrgyle said:


> Al,
> 
> I really like that jig you made! I did look on ebay for the aluminum extrusion, and I am surprised at how cheap it is. That linear bearing is where the cost is at! do you have 4 on this jig.... 2 for depth, and 2 for width of the jig, or do you have 4 on each one? I gotta say.... This is really slick.
> 
> ...


Fab
The way to save a lot on the bearing is to buy the parts separately, which you can on EBay. It's a no brainer "building them yourself









This is what you start with.









I have them lightly clamped to the rail with the plastic in place. Drill the holes slightly smaller than the screw you want to use. A machine screw will self tap. Then remove one at a time and drill a hole big enough to put the screw through. Then screw them together until you have all three sides together. Slide them off the rail and cut them apart on the table saw. Keep in mind when you do this to not mix them up because even though you were careful. They won't be perfect one to another. Buy shim stock from 8020 to fine tune each one. This is very simple to do. Shims are cheap. 

Feel free to ask about any aspect of the build and I will be happy to explain.

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Duck69 said:


> Wow, do you have step by step pictures of the build?


Not yet but it can be built from the pics and a few questions to me. I'm happy to help.

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Pirate said:


> Very nice job! Where did you buy the 8? linear bearings? Cheapest I could find were $28+ each!


eBay. Much cheaper if you build the bearings like I did. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

thegrgyle said:


> Al,
> 
> I really like that jig you made! I did look on ebay for the aluminum extrusion, and I am surprised at how cheap it is. That linear bearing is where the cost is at! do you have 4 on this jig.... 2 for depth, and 2 for width of the jig, or do you have 4 on each one? I gotta say.... This is really slick.
> 
> ...


I used 8 total. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Here is a list of the bearing parts.
80/20 Inc Aluminum Single Flange Linear Bearing Profile 15 Series 8531 x 2.78
8020 T Slot UHMW Bearing Profile 15 S 6811 x 36 N (370519894890)
8020 T Slot Aluminum Bearing Shims 15 S & 40 S 6881 N
8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 15 S 1515 L x 16 AH. You can get this any length that works for you. This is a lighter gage that works well on this fixture.

Don't buy their screws. They'er too short. I used 1/2" long machine screws from HD.
Don't buy the UHMW in packs of three. You can do a better job of drilling them yourself.
Don't pay for each item separately wait till they send you a combined shipping bill. $$$$$$ saved. They do this automatically. 

If you search the above on eBay you will find them. 

Al B Thayer

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

Thanks again for all your help with this, Al :thumbsup:. I am really looking forward to making something like this.

All those item specific descriptions should make it real easy to find the parts. Thanks again!

Another question though...... Why did you make the riser part that holds the router so tall? I think of a reason as to why you did that.

Fabian


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

thegrgyle said:


> Thanks again for all your help with this, Al :thumbsup:. I am really looking forward to making something like this.
> 
> All those item specific descriptions should make it real easy to find the parts. Thanks again!
> 
> ...


Fab
This was a build as you go and maybe I could have made it shorter. The plate that holds the router is 12"X12" so when you raise it up to it's highest point it's about 3 to 4 inches off the table. I don't really know what size stock I may want to cut on it so only time will tell.

Also after making my first cuts, it works so well. I have decided to build another table for the upper section that will increase the "throw" to route panels on. This will inner change by loosening 4 nuts. Making a back and forth swap quick and easy. The whole idea of not having to slide material on the machine adds another factor to safety and quality of the cut. much like the sled on the table saw when cross cutting.

You know I do have a harmonic hum noise coming off the plate that may not be there if it were shorter. Let me know if I can help in any way or if anyone has a suggestion.

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

This is the completed machine. It works quite well. I used a 3/8" threaded rod to raise and lower the router due to the 16 threads per inch. One turn of the wheel raises or lowers the bit 1/16". It's easy to give it a quarter turn for a fine adjustment of 1/64" or one half for 1/32". The router plate fits tight in the slot for obvious reasons and still moves up and down without trouble. No need for a locking screw.

The stop blocks slide into the rails and are L shaped to provide more surface area and also to keep them from spinning when moved into place. Set up for two adjoining pieces is done at the same time and both cuts are done without changing the set up. Very fast.

I made a few test cuts and couldn't be more pleased. There was a short learning curve on clamping the stock but all that is worked out now. The bearings and rails are well suited for woodworking. They need no protection from dust because there are no wheels rolling getting clogged. They don't move unless I move them which makes it operate safer. No worrying about the work moving unexpectedly into the bit. They are self lubricating self cleaning. If they need replacing they're cheap and easy to change out. These bearings are the same as used in rapid fire long wearing applications on production machinery. I doubt they will ever need replaced.

I think the uses in woodworking for these bearings and rails are endless, and I would hope that by sharing this project with the forum, some of you will come up with your own applications and do the same.

Al B Thayer

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

It looks like you are using basically the same materials as a DIY TS fence build that I read about recently, although it sounds like you sourced the materials for a much better price. I may have to explore that and other possibilities...

Thanks!


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Phaedrus said:


> It looks like you are using basically the same materials as a DIY TS fence build that I read about recently, although it sounds like you sourced the materials for a much better price. I may have to explore that and other possibilities...
> 
> Thanks!


I would hope others will feel compelled to pursue the build and come up with new or better ideas. I believe you will be hard pressed to find a better source. eBay rocks.

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Is there a next phase*

That has the 8020 for the vertical adjustment rather than the wood? You seem to have mastered the stuff! Another great idea and work out. :thumbsup: bill


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> That has the 8020 for the vertical adjustment rather than the wood? You seem to have mastered the stuff! Another great idea and work out. :thumbsup: bill


On this machine the vertical movement is not changed in the process of cutting the mortice so the wood is working fine. I machined the parts with a tight fit to reduce error and movement in use. Also there is less cost. 

When cutting the tenon I cut one side and then flip the piece and cut the second side. Or cut both parts and use a floating tenon. The next phase will be a longer top table capable of cutting long profiles like raised panel doors. The top table is held on by 4 bolts that lock the top rails to the MDF from their bottom slots. This will be a quick change from on to the other.

Thanks
Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


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## Duck69 (Jan 27, 2011)

Interesting!


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

That's nice! And nice shop!


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## Woodworkingkid (Jan 8, 2011)

Very nice.


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## Toolman2 (Jun 15, 2010)

You can find similar machines, plans, and designs at www.woodgears.ca


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