# scratch stock bead detail



## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

I was asked in another thread to show details on using a scratch stock. Here is my scratch stock tool, it is the vetitas model.

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You should notice that the blade or scraper is in line with the fence. This insures that the bead is on the edge.

Here are a couple other profile options. You can also use blank profiles and shape custom profiles

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To start. You need to secure your work piece, i am using a scrap piece of poplar.

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Next, read the grain. I find it easier to go in the direction that the grain will pull the tool into the wood ensuring the fence stays tight up next to the piece.


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Then lightly drag the tool. You want your first cut to be as light as possible. Like so

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The pencil is pointing to the scratch line.

Continue to take light cuts, this is after about 8 passes or so

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Continue on untill you have the basic shape scratched in. Notice i still have a small flat spot at the apex of the bead? This is intentional. 

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If i were to scratch it to perfectly match the profile, i would rub a flat spot when i flip the piece.

Now flip your wood! And wash rinse repeat to the second side like in the next three photos

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Now that you have the basic profile cut. You should have a bead with a flat on each side, now, remove the fence. When you remove the fence you will use the profile and the cutter as your fence. It really does track very well, now refine your profiles on both sides and remove the flats.

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You can even use the tool at an angle to further refine the bead just be careful not to dig into your corners.

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Once your done you should end up with something like this.




















Reminders:
Take light passes
Read your grain.
When you are refining. Go with the grain. 
Practice practice practice.


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

It seems my pics did not want to load. So here they are. They should be in order. Sorry bout that.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

John, thanks for the explanation and the pictures. I've never worked with anything like that, but what a great way to add detail. It's now on my list of new tools/skills I need to acquire.


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## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

John good post well detailed and clearly explained I like it.

Just a heads up you say that blanks can be used to make profiles and that's quite true.Going back we used to use old saw plates cut up to make the profiles, card scrapers cut up will also make good profiles.
The stock holders can also be made out of wood infact I still have one tucked away somewhere in the shop.

The veretas holders look real cool and I mean that but I stuck with my old Stanley 66 and it is still doing me good service. Nicely done my friend.


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## Tom King (Nov 22, 2013)

I use the Stanley 66 with LN cutters, and the wooden version of the the LV one. I like the scraper you have, but we are making mantles with reeded field panels, and needed the wooden one instead because the fence can go farther away from the cutter. 

We're using the little three bead cutter to match some 1828 mantles. It's a perfect match. We run three beads, and then move over with the fence to run three more.

The LN cutter, and the LV are close enough to a perfect match without fiddling with the stock profiles. I do find that I can get the LV cutters sharper than the A2 LN ones, so even if both are used, the reeds (multiple side by side beads) are finished with the LV.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32679&cat=1,41182


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

When i bought the tool it was more of an impulse buy at the time. I agree there are literally dozens of different designs. But they all do the same basic thing. Hold the cutter. Lol some are prettier then others some have more features. And some are just a flat head slot screw screwed into a block of wood.


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## Billy De (Jul 19, 2009)

And some are just a flat head slot screw screwed into a block of wood.[/QUOTE]

So you Know that trick as well:thumbsup:


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Hmm... now I want one... or at least to get some blades and try to make a wooden body for them.


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