# router table accesories



## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

Hi, I built a small router table this summer out of plywood to do a project for the house. It worked good but I would like to build a bigger one that is more versatile and has some storage and also is more stable(the one I built was just a 20"x20" top and is about 12" tall). So I decided to build this one http://twistedknotwoodshop.com/router.htm, you have to scroll down to see it.

Building the router table shouldn't be a problem but I'm wondering if you guys could share some info on what I should use for accesories, like t track. The table plan are nice but don't have slots for feather boards and other accesories. Since I don't have much use with router tables can someone help me add what I need, would like to make this my last router table, don't need 3 router tables in the garage! And also don't think it would be fun to try and add stuff to the table top after it's built. Also the fence looks a little cheesy if someone else has a better idea for a fence.

So if someone could share some advice on where I should put the t tracks for feather boards and anything else that I might want to consider adding to these plans. Also if anyone has some suggestions for a good fence, Maybe one that uses t tracks to slide back and forth?

Thanks for your help, Scott


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Thanks for sharing Scott. Nice looking table. What is the purpose behind bevelling off the countertop corners?
I don't have any input on track location, or fences, but Rockler sells some very good miter track kits if you are looking to find one. A router table is on my list of projects to build so I am looking at any and all design ideas.

Gerry


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> Thanks for sharing Scott. Nice looking table. What is the purpose behind bevelling off the countertop corners?
> I don't have any input on track location, or fences, but Rockler sells some very good miter track kits if you are looking to find one. A router table is on my list of projects to build so I am looking at any and all design ideas.
> 
> Gerry


I'm not sure about the beveling, this one isn't mine it's just a plan I found online that I liked. I don't like the fence on this one and am still looking for a good fence design, maybe using T tracks to slide the fence back and forth and lock it into place. Still not sure how to place T tracks for feather boards and such. I think I want one on the table top and one on the fence for hold down feather boards.

Here is a good link with a bunch of other router tables and many other good projects http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2007/03/03/toolcribcoms-ultimate-guide-to-free-router-table-plans/


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Scott,
T track for the fence is unnecessary. The fence doesn't have to be square and locking it down in the manner the plans call for is perfectly adequate. I would use 2 ea. thicknesses of 3/4 Baltic Birch ply to make the fence hold downs. Further, t track in the table, parallel to the fence is unnecessary, also. For end cuts, such as cope and stick, use a jig that simply rides against the fence. I've never, ever, found a need for any type of "miter bar" guided jig. 
Feather boards to hold the work in against the fence are just clamped to the table. I face the underside with 220 sand paper to prevent slippage. Some use the non-slip shelf liner material. 
The only t track that MIGHT be useful is along the fence for hold down feather boards. Here too, I simply clamp them.
Dust control is a far more important issue than t track and, your plans handle that nicely. 
Gene


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hi Again Scott

As adjustments for the fence are pretty minimal I would tend to agree with Gene in that Tee track for the fence probably isn't required. While the fence isn't anything very fancy, the basic idea looks sound, and the dust collection appears to be much better than most designs I have seen. I still think it would be helpful to have tee tracks running parallel to the fence to hold down feather boards, and for a miter gauge. Placement would depend to a degree on the width of the stock you were planning to work with, and the width of the feather board. Alternately, tee track could be placed perpendicular to the fence to hold the feather board, and one could run parallel for the miter gauge. 
I already have a carcass built, along the lines of #3, the Cadillac, on the site you sent me, but where to install the tee tracks is something I am still puzzling over.

Gerry


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Hello, I think that is a cool looking table you are building. You might consider making the fence a bit taller depending on what you are doing. I made mine 7" tall which leaves plenty of room for t-track for holddowns. I was going to add T-track for a miter bar, but I have found I don't need it. You can make a nice wide push stick with a sacrificail piece that will ride your fence and prevent tearout at the same time. There are a lot of plans for these, but you can make it to suit your needs. I like the beveled edges. Prevent you from eating a corner in the charlie horse area.


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Hi Gerry,

First, let me explain my Jigs. All of them have De Staco clamps that hold the work tight to the jig. The work cannot move. 

If I were to use a miter gauge or miter bar guided jig in a t track, I wouldn't use the fence (unless it's absolutely square to the jig or miter gauge) which means I would be limited to only those bits with bearing guides on them. Also, I lose the dust collection feature of the fence. I do use bits with the bearing guides such as coping cutters, raised panel bits, etc. but I adjust the fence so that the guide bearing is even with the face of the fence. 

If guiding the jig and/or work against the fence is a problem, you can design a jig with a guide (1X1) on the bottom that rides against the front edge of the table. My jig for cutting cross dadoes in long stock is of this configuration. I clamp a block to the fence as a length stop and clamp the work to the jig. Much like cross cutting multiple identical lengths on the table saw.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hi Gene

What are De Staco clamps? I haven't heard of them.

I like your idea of using a jig guided by the edge of the table. Kind of like a sled I guess. I hadn't even thought of that.

You make good points about not requiring miter tracks. Has me rethinking. I have used small router tables, of the Craftsman variety, but I will be building a serious router table, as I want to tackle raised panel doors.

Are you able to post pictures of your router table set up, and jigs?

Gerry


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## routermaniac (Nov 1, 2009)

I would at least include a miter track. That way if you want to use standard accessories such as coping sleds, miter gauges and featherboards, you are ready to go.


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

I bought the plans and built the Deluxe Router Station from NYW. It has a standard miter track on the table top that is great for a miter gauge or sled, and t-slots cut in the fence. The two lower sections slide to close or open the gap to allow for different sized bits. It also has t-slots cut in the upper section for using feather boards and hold down. The dust collection that is built in works great, and it has more storage room than I will probably ever use. The design of the table is very similar to the table you linked. You might want to check it out. I love my table and will never use anything else.


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

AZ Termite said:


> I bought the plans and built the Deluxe Router Station from NYW. It has a standard miter track on the table top that is great for a miter gauge or sled, and t-slots cut in the fence. The two lower sections slide to close or open the gap to allow for different sized bits. It also has t-slots cut in the upper section for using feather boards and hold down. The dust collection that is built in works great, and it has more storage room than I will probably ever use. The design of the table is very similar to the table you linked. You might want to check it out. I love my table and will never use anything else.


Would you have any pictures of your router table showing the placement of the tracks you mention? Thanks, Scott


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

I just went to rockler to lock at router table accesories and I ended up buying a fence that was on clearance http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1383&filter=router table. It was on closeout for 30 bucks so I figured it would make a good start and if I don't like it I'm not out a lot and I will have a good idea on building my own design after using this one. I also bought a 4 ft peice of T track that comes with a bunch of knobs and bolts for 20 bucks http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21276&tagem=rv. These should be enough to get me started. They also had a router table accesory kit that comes with a dust collector and 3 feather boards(2 hold downs for the fence and one table feather board). It was 40 bucks so I held off for now. 

I thought these were pretty good deals and thought I would share if anyone else is interested. 

Scott


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> Hi Gene
> 
> What are De Staco clamps? I haven't heard of them.
> 
> ...


Gerry,
Here's a link to De Staco. http://destacoclampstore.com/manual_clamps.htm Mine are the "Horizontal Hold Down" variety. 

Sorry, can't post pics of my table and jigs. Son borrowed my camera and hasn't returned it. My table is an extension of the table saw table. The fence is a purchased one and fits the purchased table only. Made by Jointech as part of their "Saw Train" system. They (Jointech) would have shipped me the table with the t track in it, but, after talking with several owners and using one at the plant in San Antonio, I declined the offer of the t track. Concensus of the owners was that it was unnecessary. Other's mileage may vary.

My jigs are VERY simple. All start with either 1/4" tempered hard board or 1/4" Baltic Birch ply as a base. Mine is 12"X12". Then, a piece of 4" (or as wide as necessary for the De staco clamp) 3/4" hard wood 12" long as a backer glued and screwed to the base at 90 degrees to the edge that will ride the fence. Then mount the clamps (2) so they can clamp the work down to the base. I also glue a strip of 220 sand paper on the front edge of the backer board. That's all necessary, however I cut a hand saw handle shape from 3/4" material and mounted it to the base about center and behind the backer. I also cut away a strip from the fence edge of the base from the front to the backer for bit clearance. My first one, I just let the bit chew it up. Still serviceable but not pretty.

The jig for using the table edge as a guide is essentially the same except with the 1X1 glued and screwed to the outside edge. Your base will need to be sized to reach from the bit to at least 1" beyond the front edge of the table. I made my 1x1 16" long so I have 2" extending in front and back.

These jigs are so simple and cheap that you can have one for each type of bit that you use for end grain shaping. That way your back up board doesn't get chewed up by using different profiles.

Gene


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

ponch, if you look in my photos under New Shop, there is a picture of it. If you would like a better pic let my know


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Thanks for the link Gene. I have seen that style of clamp, but under a different name.

Gerry


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

I recieved my router table fence and T track kit today from rockler and I am pleased with the purchase. The fence is on clearance for 30 bucks and is a peice of aluminum angle that comes with 2 adjustable boards on front for different router bits and it also comes with 8 knobs and t bolts. The 4 ft T track kit comes with track and 8 more knobs and bolts. Now I have a nice sturdy fence and I can put different sized wood on the front if I want it taller. I'm really happy for the money I spent, thought I would post this for any others that are thinking about building a table. They also make a dust kit that screws right on the fence that I held off buying in case I didn't like the fence.


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

Glad to hear you are happy with the purchase. Good luck with your project.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

ponch37300 said:


> Hi, I built a small router table this summer out of plywood to do a project for the house. It worked good but I would like to build a bigger one that is more versatile and has some storage and also is more stable(the one I built was just a 20"x20" top and is about 12" tall). So I decided to build this one http://twistedknotwoodshop.com/router.htm, you have to scroll down to see it.
> 
> Building the router table shouldn't be a problem but I'm wondering if you guys could share some info on what I should use for accesories, like t track. The table plan are nice but don't have slots for feather boards and other accesories. Since I don't have much use with router tables can someone help me add what I need, would like to make this my last router table, don't need 3 router tables in the garage! And also don't think it would be fun to try and add stuff to the table top after it's built. Also the fence looks a little cheesy if someone else has a better idea for a fence.
> 
> ...


check this site they are the best people Bob and Rick for router stuff I have their table top but built the botton http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html


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