# Router Miters?



## borisw37 (Jul 28, 2010)

Planning on making a keepsake box.
What are your thoughts on router miters? 
Was thinking of using a 90 degree V bit to both cut the board into pieces (sides) and create the miters.
Set the depth so the point of the bit just barely cuts the top surface. Attach a sacrificial board to the top of the wood being cut, to keep the two pieces together and run it through...
Or set the bit just below the top surface and see if the thing membrane, can be bent into 90 degree corner?



















It looks like these router bits come in 90 and 91 degree angles... What would the benefit / purpose of 91 degree be? (Small gap for glue?)

Link to the router bits.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*It's anidea worth trying out*

The biggest issue I see is keeping the work flat to the table so as to get a constant depth "V" groove. The biggest advantage I see is there is only one piece of material with 3 hinges and a miter joint. Less slippage and chanches for misalignmen and making the glue up easier.
The 1 degree cutter differences stand out to me because whoever came up with the idea probably ran into a "fitment" problem and the joints would not close completely.

For a small shop making a number of small boxes I think it would be perfect.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Oh no, a router bit I don’t have!


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## J_L (Apr 22, 2014)

You don't want to cut all the way through. These are used a lot on CNCs where the depth can be controlled to the thousandth. On plywood miter folds, they normally leave the majority of the outer veneer intact. Same for what you're doing. Leave a 1/32 or so to hold everything together. Test it a few times on scrap to see what works best for the lumber you're using. 

I could see making a sled that sits on top of the piece for the router to ride in to make the cut.

Not sure on the 90 vs 91 degrees. 1 degree open seems like a lot when you multiply it by 4 corners.


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