# how do i cut formica without chipping the edge?



## Dan Rielly

:huh:I have to cut a piece of formica counter top and do not want a raggedy edge. what blade and what preperation?


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## Dave Paine

With a lot of care and even more luck.

You need a fine tooth saw blade. Preferably one which states it is for laminated media.

Score the cut line with a sharp knife.
Apply masking tape across the cut line.

If the counter flat or does it have a backsplash?.

Ideally you want the blade cutting on the up stroke, so if the top were flat lay it down on the laminate side, ideally on a piece of foam, thick cardboard or plywood to allow the the blade and to support the laminate.

If you have a backsplash you could lay plywood up to the backsplash, but you are likely to have to take your chances with the backsplash.

If not backsplash another option is to cut wide with the circ saw and follow up with a router and a trim bit. Will need a fence since will not be able to use the edge to guide the bearing.

Good luck. I hate cutting countertop. Too frustrating. Too many ways for "Murphy" to get involved.


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## cabinetman

Dan Rielly said:


> :huh:I have to cut a piece of formica counter top and do not want a raggedy edge. what blade and what preperation?











Do you mean you want to cut just the piece of laminate, or a countertop that has laminate already glued to it?













 







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## Steve Neul

I just use a straight edge and cut a formica counter top from the back side with a circular saw.


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## jschaben

Most, if not all, of the blades I've seen designed for laminates are TCG grinds.
http://www.buyfreudtools.com/index.php?page=Category.Browse&externalCategoryId=57995

If you don't want to pop for the blade, use the tape as the next best option.:smile:


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## H. A. S.

Just like what Jshaben says.:thumbsup:


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## MissionIsMyMission

I always use a laminate scoring blade and then snap the laminate like glass.
http://www.stanleytools.com/default...T&PARTNUMBER=11-942&SDesc=Scoring+Knife+Blade:thumbsup:


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## CharlieC

This may not be the best way....but it works. Turn your saw blade around, tape, mark, and score your line then cut slowly.


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## cabinetman

CharlieC said:


> This may not be the best way....but it works. Turn your saw blade around, tape, mark, and score your line then cut slowly.


 







It would be nice for you to introduce yourself. This thread is about 2 months old and the OP has likely found a way or has competed his project, as he hasn't come back to address his own thread.

As for your suggestion, carbide tipped saw blades aren't designed to be run in a reversed position. It can be a safety hazard. There is the potential for teeth to get knocked off or damaged.













 







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## jschaben

cabinetman said:


> It would be nice for you to introduce yourself. This thread is about 2 months old and the OP has likely found a way or has competed his project, as he hasn't come back to address his own thread.
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+ 1 on that, besides when I first heard about doing that years ago I tried it and ended up with a bigger mess. I'm thinin it should be something Mythbusters could bust.:yes:


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## CharlieC

As per your request...My name is Charlie, I have been a carpenter/cabinetmaker for over 20 years I still have all of my fingers and not even a stitch from an accident. I usually do not join forums due to the fact that some ego's get in the way of practical suggestions, after careful review of several posts I did not see any of the usual...so I joined. There are always several different ways of completing a task, and each is allowed his own opinion. I apoligize to the guy with 14,000+ posts, I guess I do not have the experience to post on this site either. I will let you guys get back to ruling your roost.


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## jschaben

CharlieC said:


> As per your request...My name is Charlie, I have been a carpenter/cabinetmaker for over 20 years I still have all of my fingers and not even a stitch from an accident. I usually do not join forums due to the fact that some ego's get in the way of practical suggestions, after careful review of several posts I did not see any of the usual...so I joined. There are always several different ways of completing a task, and each is allowed his own opinion. I apoligize to the guy with 14,000+ posts, I guess I do not have the experience to post on this site either. I will let you guys get back to ruling your roost.


Sorry you were offended because I disagreed with you. Good Luck


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## CharlieC

*Sorry Guys*

I apologize to cabinetman and jschaben, even though it has worked well for me in the past many times...I should have never posted an unsafe way of doing anything. I also apologize for losing my temper...bad habit... I am sure you both are very good guys with a wealth of knowledge. Have a blessed day


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## knotscott

CharlieC said:


> This may not be the best way....but it works. Turn your saw blade around, tape, mark, and score your line then cut slowly.


The backward blade method was an old trick that evolved when saw blades were steel tipped.....a carbide tipped saw blade turned backward would no longer be supported by the steel shoulder and would be at high risk of eventually having the carbide separated from the blade body and possibly being mated to a human body....not something any modern blade manufacture would suggest. Taping and scoring are safe and effective ways to reduce tearout. (No matter how much experience we have, there's always something we can learn. I think this is a pretty nice group of open minded folks Charlie, even if everyone doesn't agree with your views or ideas. Groups like this can enlighten us to new ways and ideas that we'd otherwise have no way of knowing about. The first thing we learned in the old days isn't always the best way, and certainly isn't he only way. We don't have to be in agreement on everything to get along....hope you'll give them a chance, and maybe teach us something new too.)

A blade with a steep top bevel like a Hi-ATB grind will give the cleanest possible cut of any other grind....the steeper the bevel, the lower the tearout. When combined with high precision manufacturing and a high tooth count, you'll have the best possible blade....Infinity 010-080 Ultrasmooth, Forrest Duraline, Freud LU80, CMT 210.080.10, Amana MB10-800. Using one of those blades along with taping and scoring should yield as good of a cut as you can get.


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## TimPa

CharlieC said:


> This may not be the best way....but it works. Turn your saw blade around, tape, mark, and score your line then cut slowly.


I though you were implying a jig saw blade, because I use a jigsaw and a down-cutting blade - works great.


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## cabinetman

TimPa said:


> I though you were implying a jig saw blade, because I use a jigsaw and a down-cutting blade - works great.


That does work better than an upcutting blade for wood. I've had the best luck if using a jig saw with using metal cutting blades.









 







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## ihackwood

Straight edge and a router if your letting the bearing rest on Formica use Vaseline on the Formica edge

May not be right but it's how I do it


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## PETERS WOOD WORKING

I have always used the score and tape method


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## Wendel17

I've always cut my laminates over sized and trimmed with a laminate trimmer. Using a thin kerf TCB has always given me a nice cut.


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## dougpke

cabinetman said:


> It would be nice for you to introduce yourself. This thread is about 2 months old and the OP has likely found a way or has competed his project, as he hasn't come back to address his own thread.
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The best part tho is all of the smoke alarms in the area go off!


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## vinnypatternmaker

Hi!
In addition to many of the above suggestions, we find these "shears" to be very helpful, both for straight or curved work.
The first two on this website have lasted us 30+ years of use, and seem indestructable :thumbsup:! 
Great for on-site work or repairs...no scoring needed :thumbsup:!
http://www.klenktools.com/main/products/laminateshearsnew.asp
You cut from the top of the laminate, and if you get any chips, they appear on the underside only :thumbsup:!
Little pricey, but hey...:blink:!
Best,
Marena and Vinny


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## Acer

All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.


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## Steve Neul

Acer said:


> All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.


There's one problem, Charlie hasn't been here since Nov 2012.


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## notskot

Acer said:


> All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.


Charlie is that you?


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## BigJim

Acer said:


> All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.


Why did you wait 4 years to respond to this thread, check out the date it was posted. I wish some of these fellows could respond to you, they have passed on and we miss them.


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## TimPa

Acer said:


> All you supposed experts giving Charlie a hard time make me sick. You sound like a bunch of egotistical know-it-all's. Charlie's backwards blade method works great. You make it sound like only carbide-tipped blades are now available and plain steel-tipped blades are no longer available. Well steel-tipped are readily available and work great per Charlie's advice. I think you all owe Charlie a great big apology.



it appears that your first post to this forum is to criticize postings from years ago. although ego's do flavor a response from time to time, the information is being shared in good faith to help those asking for help. 


when a post is written that I may not agree with, I read it again. usually there is merit to the part I don't agree with - and I just learned something new. give it a try!


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## GuitarPhotographer

I just cut some laminate on my table saw with a 80-tooth non-carbide blade. I stuck the laminate smooth side down to a piece of scrap plywood and cut it as normal. I had great results. Forgive my method, but I didn't know any better...


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## Tony B

I normally use my 50 Tooth Freud Combination Blade with Carbide Tip. Run it right through the table saw blade. The edge chip up is so small as to not be a problem with a 1/8" over hang to be cleaned up with the hand held router. If one side has to butted against the backsplash, I would cleanthat edge up first with the hand-held and a straight edge. then lay it down and clean up the other sides after it is laid.


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## Ranger44

I was cutting soffit, and having trouble, when a friend (carpenter) suggested that I do the same thing, reverse my blade (fine tooth) and go slow. Worked well, on the aluminum. Now I know of another place to use that tip. Thanks


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## Ranger44

*Sorry*

New to the game, didn't mean to intrude. Wasn't using a carbide tipped blade, just a fine tooth cheap blade. Again my apologies.


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## Steve Neul

Ranger44 said:


> New to the game, didn't mean to intrude. Wasn't using a carbide tipped blade, just a fine tooth cheap blade. Again my apologies.


It's find to dig up old threads. Usually the problem though is someone is looking for answers from members long gone.


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## m.n.j.chell

Ranger ... as my Mom used to say, "If you didn't draw blood or break a bone, no need to apologize."

Of course, we were also allowed to ride in the car without seat belts (an option on some vehicles) back then.

How did we ever survive???


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