# applying finish to chess pieces on the lathe



## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

Hello all,

I just started making some chess pieces for a chess set. I'm beginning with the pawns: 8 walnut and 8 white maple. I had thought I would do a CA finish so I bought the CA glue (thin) and the accelerator. I watched several videos on applying CA glue to pens and it looked pretty easy -- yeah, right! Applying the CA glue to the pawn isn't so easy, in fact, it's a PITA. This is mostly due to all the various surfaces on the piece; it ends up being a mess. 

My questions are: is there an easy way to apply CA glue to shapes with a lot of detail, like chess pieces? What about when I get to something irregular, like the knight? 

I'm thinking instead of using the Minwax Tung Oil, which I know isn't really tung oil, but I've had good luck with it in the past. Are there any other suggestions?

Full disclosure here: I'm very new to turning. Here's a picture of one of my pawns.

Thanks,

Kevin H.


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## cuerodoc (Jan 27, 2012)

Nice work!!
I'm not a CA finish guy, but see no problem in using traditional finishes--especially for chess pieces. I'm a fan of them showing the patina/changes in the finish as they're used.
Considered lacquer? Can be applied on the lathe or with a brush.


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

I use the thick CA glue and have learned to leave the accelerator alone. I quit using it because it was drying too fast and causing more of a mess. I use 3 to 5 coats and it will dry in less than 5 minutes so it goes quick. I use a paper towel on the back side of the piece and rotate at about 30-50 rpm dribbling it on the top of the piece


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

After that I run through the micro mesh grits from 1500 to 12k. I hope that helps


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

guglipm63 said:


> I use the thick CA glue and have learned to leave the accelerator alone. I quit using it because it was drying too fast and causing more of a mess. I use 3 to 5 coats and it will dry in less than 5 minutes so it goes quick. I use a paper towel on the back side of the piece and rotate at about 30-50 rpm dribbling it on the top of the piece


I think that's fine for pens and the like, but how do you deal with getting the CA clue in the narrow parts and other surfaces. By the time I get it applied to the tricky areas, it has started to harden.

Thanks,

Kevin


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

cuerodoc said:


> Nice work!!
> I'm not a CA finish guy, but see no problem in using traditional finishes--especially for chess pieces. I'm a fan of them showing the patina/changes in the finish as they're used.
> Considered lacquer? Can be applied on the lathe or with a brush.


Lacquer, hmmm. Can you give me some direction for applying lacquer? What kind? Where do you get good stuff? I have never used lacquer, but I might consider it.

Thanks,

Kevin


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

kjhart0133 said:


> I think that's fine for pens and the like, but how do you deal with getting the CA clue in the narrow parts and other surfaces. By the time I get it applied to the tricky areas, it has started to harden. Thanks, Kevin


I'm sure it wouldn't be without challenges. You would have to conform the paper towel to the contour as you mop it on. I guess I was mainly referring to the use of the accelerator in this case. I would shy away from it and allow it to dry on its own. I would also agree that lacquer may be a better option. I've used Deft in a rattle can


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

For the lathe I often use one third BLO one third mineral spirits and one thirds shellac. Goes on quick and easy apply at slow speed, dries on the lathe and polishes well at higher speeds. Apply with small piece of paper towel Viva works well

Jerry


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## Lilty (Dec 20, 2006)

Very nice work great looking pawn


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Most definitely do not use CA on pieces like that. Spray finishes would also be difficult to deal with in tight corners. My personal choice would be Minwax Antique Oil. It is actually an oil and varnish blend with the best characteristics of both. After one application it looks mostly like an oil finish. It develops a slight sheen after the second application. After the third application it has a nice satin finish and a semi gloss if you go for four applications. It cures slowly enough that you can wipe the corners clean and work it into the pores for a smooth french polish look. It is one of my favorite finishes.

For your chess pieces, I think that two or three applications at the most would fit your need.


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## robhodge1 (Feb 14, 2011)

I have had good luck with General Finishes Wood Turners finish. It goes on pretty nice and dries quick enough.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

I use thinned lacquer. I thin it about 50/50 with lacquer thinner. Wipe it on with the lathe running slow, then speed up the lathe and wipe it some more blending the finish. If you get streaks put just one drop on the rag and use that area to blend the streaks in. It takes practice to get it right but it's a quick easy finish. 
The other option is the abrasive waxes like Hut Abrasive. You can get those from several of the wood turning sources. It's not as durable as the lacquer but fairly fool proof once you do a few. Just stick the bar into the wood. Coat it evenly. Then run the lathe at high speed and use a cloth to "melt' the finish to an even gloss. 
Use small pieces of cotton cloth. Never use a large piece. I use gun cleaning patches.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I've been using General Finishes Woodturner's finish too. I dries fairly fast, but no where near as quick as CA. I use a fine artist brush to get it into the nooks and crannies. Because of the slower drying time, you have more time to work with it before it gets messy. For larger areas, I use a cosmetic sponge with a piece of panty hose stretched around it. It leaves a nice smooth finish. 

I added a couple of drops of TransTint Amber to warm it up a little bit. To me it has a little bit of a pinkish cast when used straight from the bottle.


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

GF's Woodturner's Finish sounds good. I will search for it on the Web, but if you have a good on-line source, please reply with a link.

I might also try a test piece with lacquer.

I've made 8 pawns so far. The first one was a throw away. The second one I made came out pretty good and I'm using it as a my model for subsequent pawns. After making the second one, I figured out I would need to add some weight to the base of the piece. By itself, the pawn was just too 'light.' It didn't have a good feel when picking it up and putting it down. I'm not a chess player, but I think chess players like their pieces to have a bit of heft. So, for my third piece I bored out a 3/4" hole 1/4" deep into the base before mounting on the lathe. I purchased a melting pot, a ladle and some lead and poured a bit of lead into the base after turning it. I was a bit ham-fisted on this first attempt and overfilled the reservoir - ruined that piece. I then cut out some test blanks, bored the right size hole in both ends and practiced pouring. Got the technique perfected I think. I'll post some pictures over the weekend.

I've since made five more pawns that I think are keepers. I'm thinking I should make a 'build thread' documenting my 'experiences' making this chess set. I'm down to about 20 minutes to turn a pawn; five or ten minutes or so to sand to 400 grit. With the screw chuck I'm using, I can remount the piece to do the finishing later.

Thanks,

Kevin H.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

You probably already know all of this about chess pieces, but I found it an interesting source of information about the size of chess pieces and boards: *Chess Piece Size Guidelines*

I didn't see any weight guidelines, but putting weight in the base sounds like a good idea.


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

Bill Boehme said:


> You probably already know all of this about chess pieces, but I found it an interesting source of information about the size of chess pieces and boards: *Chess Piece Size Guidelines*
> 
> I didn't see any weight guidelines, but putting weight in the base sounds like a good idea.


Bill, that's great info. I was using a picture of a Staunton set and taking dimensions off that. This method's not real accurate so I'll have to check out my pieces relative to the info on your link.

Thanks,

Kevin H


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## judgment (May 22, 2014)

kjhart0133 said:


> GF's Woodturner's Finish sounds good. I will search for it on the Web, but if you have a good on-line source, please reply with a link.
> 
> I might also try a test piece with lacquer.
> 
> ...


High-quality - and many average quality - chess pieces are generally labeled as either double- or triple-weighted, with triple-weighted generally being preferred by most players. This means that a hollow is created in the base of the piece that will accept a piece of steel or iron appropriately sized so that the resulting weight of the piece is two or three times the weight of a solid wood piece. 

You are correct in that the weight added to the base of chess piece used to be poured molten lead until lead became a big no-no for health reasons. I actually think that lead would be preferable if you could be certain to mitigate the health risks. 

There are other resources available on the net that describe how high-quality chess pieces are typically manufactured and finished. From what I understand, high-end Staunton chess pieces that are finished to a natural appearance are generally wax polished. 

Much of what I have read on the subject is rather disheartening, to be honest, being that the processes described seem to require quite a bit of fairly unique tools and materials to duplicate. However, I am sure knowledgeable woodworkers could substitute other methods to achieve a satisfactory result.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Hit one of the reloading supply shops and buy #6 shot. Fill the bottom recess of the piece with it and a gob of epoxy to close the hole. You can even mix the shot into the epoxy and apply.


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