# 45 degree dowels



## Rhaugle (May 12, 2017)

Looking for some ideas on how to install dowels on a 45 degree corner. I have the Jessem dowel jig.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Why and how?*

Why do you want to put the dowels in this joint? For looks, for strength?
How do you think they should go in, across the joint or through the joint?
Is there a spline which would strengthen the joint?
Can't say as I've seen this done before on a 22.5 degree mitered joint.
:|


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

photos, drawings. sketch or mockup for us to see would help

.


----------



## Rhaugle (May 12, 2017)

woodnthings said:


> Why do you want to put the dowels in this joint? For looks, for strength?
> How do you think they should go in, across the joint or through the joint?
> Is there a spline which would strengthen the joint?
> Can't say as I've seen this done before on a 22.5 degree mitered joint.
> :|


for strength. Im wondering if this would work better than a lapped miter joint, for boxed cabinets. ( i had another post about lapped vs miter lock joints in plywood).


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You mean this? The doweling jig should do it for you.


----------



## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Steve Neul said:


> You mean this? The doweling jig should do it for you.





Rhaugle said:


> Looking for some ideas on how to install dowels on a 45 degree corner. I have the Jessem dowel jig.


I was thinking the same thing. It would be no different than joining two boards to make a larger panel. The inside faces of the joint would be treated the same as the mating faces of two boards. 

Or maybe we are not answering your question, we seem to telling you how to locate and drill holes for dowels, rather than how to install those dowels.

Do you have multiple joints which must come together all at the same time? Sometimes an extra set of hands is needed to align and keep everything even as it comes together.


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

be aware that "some" dowels can exert a LOT of hydraulic pressure
if forced in with a lot of glue and pop out the wood it is going into.
some experimenting should be done if you have not done this before.

I used to use dowels for everything back in the day.
then, when the Biscuit Machine came out, that was my go to and the
dowel jig was retired. I no longer have the biscuit joiner and only
use the Slot Cutter used in a hand-held router.
the biscuits allow for some lateral adjustments while the dowels do not.
(just another option).









.


----------



## JohnGi (May 9, 2019)

I'm with John Smith on this one. In production, dowels are typically specified as a "drive fit"--0.003" to 0.005" oversized--and tenons are specified as a "slip fit"--0.003" to 0.005" undersized. I've broken production clamps intended for tenoned joints trying to drive dowel joints with them. It is hard to get sufficient force on a miter joint to close it if the dowels are well fitted to the holes. If they are loose, the joint strength just isn't there. Also, dowels are unforgiving. I'm used to holes bored with fixed machinery which gives more accurate location in end grain. Any drift of the drill will twist the joint. I love dowels for stuck and coped joinery, but it's hard to make them work with miters.


----------



## Rhaugle (May 12, 2017)

ah. my question was not correct.. i need them in a mitered corner on a box corner.. not a "frame" corner like the pictures.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

A spline would be easier and better.


----------

