# Fish Tank Stand



## Doc7 (Aug 2, 2011)

For a 40 gallon tank, 36 inches long x 18 inches deep

Thanks so much to all the help from people on this forum! Regarding using a router, staining, using oak instead of pine, etc... This forum had an immediate and definitive positive impact on my work!!


----------



## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

That looks very nice. Oak is such a nice wood to work with. Are you putting glass in the doors?


----------



## Doc7 (Aug 2, 2011)

I will be making or purchasing doors once I take stock of my remaining wood and costs to build (would include buying a set of router bits at minimum - may need a router table etc, need to research). Probably several weeks out before I worry about it as I think most of my free time will be devoted to deciding upon and purchasing the actual aquarium equipment for a while.


This is the first thing I have ever built with wood outside of decks/sheds with father, and I am immensely proud of it.


----------



## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

That is the nicest oscillating fan stand I have ever seen. :laughing:


Seriously though, that is fantastic and you have done a great job. Please be sure to post some photos once the tank is in place. As nice as your project is, without the tank, it's incomplete. Great work


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The cabinet looks great. Did you have the aquarium there to take measurements? As a note, a full piece top helps keeping the twisting and racking out of the cabinet. You could make R&S type doors with a panel without a lot of fancy tooling or machinery.












 







.


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Very nicely done! Can't wait to see it set up with fish. What kind are you getting? Moving up from a smaller tank?


----------



## Doc7 (Aug 2, 2011)

Thanks for the comments!! 

The oscillating fan is because I took my AC units out today for Irene : )

The tank will sit on the framework (sliding in from the back), and the molding seen in the pic will actually cover the bottom 1 5/8" of the tank so that the bottom rim is hidden and basically the viewing part of the tank will start immediately above the molding. The bottom molding is 1/8" above the bottom of the frame so that it does not take any load and of course I will be shimming all around the bottom of the stand and adjusting for level.

I do have the tank - I will be loading it on once I get assistance, later this week - it is a 40 gallon breeder size (36" long, 18" deep and 18" tall) - not worth it to try to load it on by myself for a picture when a slip could smash the thing : ) It will be my 2nd tank, my first being a 20 gallon that is set up on a purchased stand which is made out of fiberboard and generally not as sturdy (I was worried about it during the earthquake earlier this week, even all the way up in NJ). The focus on this tank will actually be on the freshwater plants more so than the fish. It will be a while yet to set it up as all my energy has been devoted to the stand so I have not purchased anything besides the tank and lighting, and still need filtration, heating, gravel, and finally a plant shipment.

I was in the "DIY" mode because I also built the CO2 injection system (for the plants in the tank) - a Victor dual stage regulator, with a Burkert solenoid, Ideal needle valve, Swagelok check valve... a home made counter for the bubble flow rate out of check valves and a Walgreen Oral Syringe...and a PVC piping injection system : )

The frame is constructed as such below, and with the bottom, 2 sides, and face frame glued on w/ nearly 100% coverage I do not see how this could twist or rack in any direction. All pieces are flat to the frame because I routed the areas out where the strong ties and screw-heads are placed.


----------



## cowboy dan (Apr 11, 2010)

that is pretty nice. but when you set the tank, you should set it on a pice of foam insulation board. it helps distribute the weight better. my brother is a profesional fish breeder. he has had tanks as small as 40gal crack because of uneven stands. it takes less than a 16th to cause it to crack or bust a corner seam. the plastic framed aquariums are worse for this. i have a 33gal and a 120gal. both sit on construction foam board. even my 30gal filter tank sits on the stuff. cheap flood insurance imo. i had to support the 120 from the basement with treated 4x4 posts. over time, your joists will sag even with a 40gal.... but you should be fine if you place the tank accross the joist as apposed to setting it on the length of the joist. 

i can't wait to redo the 120 tank stand. but it's gonna get costly.

oh and doc, if you have any questions about fresh or salt water, my bro has or has done both. i would be happy to share any insite with you about nitrate levels, and how to set up tanks. i'm no pro, but i have learned from the the best. here is a tip. buy used gravel and make sure it's not washed. it speeds up tank set up. i wasted alot of money on fish and they died rather quickly, because i had gravel that was sterilized by the previous owner.


----------



## cody.sheridan-2008 (May 23, 2010)

What are you using for the filtration system? Also what are you using for lighting? Are you considering a sump (highly recommended)? Are you trying to achieve any particular ecosystem for the tank? or is it just going to be nice plants? Are you going to make a hood for the tank  ?

Maybe you could put in a couple of hooks to hang nets ect from inside. Also to hang the power boards to keep that neat.

The stand looks great and I wouldn't worry about twisting or racking. Just make sure you use some styrofoam underneath the tank which will make any movement negligible and also prevents the tank cracking if it is put on a piece of gravel, sand ect.

I have a couple 4ft and a 3ft at the moment but at one stage had 14 tanks running... oh how I miss them...


----------



## Warnock (Apr 4, 2011)

Very nice looking. It will really shine with the tank full of fish.


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I'd be concerned about using someone else's unwashed gravel. You also get any problems that tank may have had. Basically you just need to build up the beneficial bacteria and not put more load on the tank than it is ready to handle. I've had great success with Eco-complete which also jump starts your eco system and is made for a planted aquarium. Add fish slowly starting with something on the hardy side. Sounds like with the plant focus that won't be too much of an issue. Shrimp are a fun addition to a planted tank. :yes:

Whatever you do we want to see pix!


----------



## Doc7 (Aug 2, 2011)

I'm quite familiar with the nitrogen cycle as it pertains to fish tanks folks - thanks for the tips though : ) 


It will be open topped with a couple of slim Coralife light fixtures. Dual canister filters likely 2215 or 2217. Haven't quite figured out how to properly mix the CO2 throughout but that will be a process of experimentation once I get plants in (and before adding fish so I don't gas any out!) 

I will be using Eco-Complete - though because I like the look and properties, not because I believe they actually kick start your bio filter : )


----------



## Doc7 (Aug 2, 2011)

Here it is with a tank!











Looking for first-time cabinet door suggestions in this thread:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/cabinet-door-making-materials-christmas-32221/#post266197

thanks for looking!


----------



## info (Oct 3, 2011)

That is super great ......


----------



## cody.sheridan-2008 (May 23, 2010)

Looking great! I love the scaping. 

Are you running CO2?

What lighting are you using?

ps. you could put a nice sump under that tank


----------

