# Kehoe Dovetail Spline Jig



## woodworks (Feb 12, 2008)

Hey guys, I just came across this link. I don't know if it has been posted before in here, but I own this jig and I think it is absolutely fantastic.

I have dealt with Kevin who is TexasTimbers and sells the jig and I think he is one of the nicest guys to deal with I have ever had the pleasure of meeting.

If you have questions about this jig, follow the link and it will answer them. I was lucky enough to buy this jig from the original maker and still have it. It will last a lifetime. I am glad to see Kevin keeping up the tradition of this jig.

*Video Review of the Kehoe Jig by Charles Neil*

Jay


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## woodworks (Feb 12, 2008)

Well when I posted this, I had come straight from the link and posted my comments. After I was through, I then started scrolling and to my surprise, there is the same topic.

Sorry for posting something that was already here. Go ahead and delete it.

(TexesTimbers) Do I still get paid?


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Thanks for the kind words Jay. I appreciate it. :icon_smile:


Now as to the ......


woodworks said:


> ..... Do I still get paid?


I think I already paid you up for while more than once! :laughing:


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Woodworks,
I am glad you posted this thread. I watched the video for the first time and had to order one from the Texas fellow. Looks like a lot of fun.
Mike Hawkins:thumbsup:


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## woodworks (Feb 12, 2008)

TexasTimbers said:


> Thanks for the kind words Jay. I appreciate it. :icon_smile:
> 
> 
> Now as to the ......
> ...


 
So in other words, the check is in the mail?

Thanks buddy. :yes:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

An interesting jig.

Does the video come with he jig? If not how can it be obtained?

G


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## woodworks (Feb 12, 2008)

GeorgeC,

That is a good question. I don't think the video comes with it. As far as getting it, I have no clue. Talk with TexasTimbers since he is the one who sells the jig. That might be something worth mentioning to him as I myself wouldn't mind having the video and I have had the jig for about 20 years.


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

That video is now "Not Available"... is there another one?
... or do you have to PAY to see it now?  ")


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Hey Joe,

The video works fine but cannot be embedded any longer so I updated the link in Jay's post which now takes you to the site. Just click "Play" once you're there. Thanks for the heads up. 






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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

Hey Kevin!

*IT WORKED!*

I needed that refresher... I got the jig some time ago... Ended up in a drawer... 

I'm going to take it OUT of the drawer and see if I can make a simple box to get my feet wet! Finally!

Thank you for the Link update... Makes a huge difference! :laughing:


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Joe Lyddon said:


> ... I got the jig some time ago... Ended up in a drawer...


 I over-nighted that thing just for it to end up in a drawer! 


Haha got ya. Let me know if you need any help. 







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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

Hi Kevin,

I've watched that video several times to be sure it's soaking-in OK.

One thing I've noticed... His box (sides) are glued together before he cuts for the Kehoe splines... that is fine... BUT, the clamping action of the spline has been negated because there is nothing to really 'clamp' (the glued joint isn't going to 'give' any).

It seems to me, the best way, if one can do it, would be to clamp the box sides together, route for the splines, then glue-up the box and splines at the same time where the splines would negate the use of any other clamps in the glue-up.

Does that make sense to you... or am I just letting my mind wander too much?

If so, what kind of clamping jig would be able to be flexible enough to do it easily and reliably? Has someone already done it?

I guess all you'd need to do is hold only two pieces together at a time to make the cuts... not the whole box... that would be easier... duh?
... just make sure all parts are properly labeled, etc.

edit:
After a little more thought, I picture a jig where the box joints are at the end of the jig where a hole box could be straddled into place, for the rest of the joints... Much like a Shoemakers Jig where the complete shoe is put onto the jig.

What are your thoughts?

Thank you....


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Joe,
I think you're thinking too much.:laughing: I have the jig and think of it more of an adornment and a secondary means of securing the joint so it will never come apart. You could probably do it like you're thinking, but I think the end result will be about the same. Here's some pics of my cigar humidor I made with it. Canary wood with bloodwood splines.
Mike Hawkins


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

OK Mike... I was wondering about that... :laughing:

Thank you...

I see your splines were just about the last thing you did when constructing your humidor... NICE job!

I guess you just jury-rig some cradle to put the box in to get the corner to be cut to the top? Just stick it in a vise? ... or what?

The Finish you did sure made a huge difference in the looks! Beautiful!
... what did you use to Finish it?


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Sorry I missed this before - thanks Mike for the help. 

Joe, I have used all the methods you mentioned and then some. I usually just glue the joint (whatever it may be) together and after it dries cut and install the splines. Remember most end grain glue joints are pretty much not going to stay together under any amoiunt of stress for very long, but once the splines are in and dry they won't come apart. 

Z-lock miter joints etc. will stay glued together without splines when properly executed, except with some species (very oily/porous etc.) as long as the joints don't see much stress. 

You can almost not go wrong with any approach you use as long as you follow the same procedures you would if you weren't going to install the splines. The splines add eye-appeal obviously, but they also make the joint virtually impossible to come apart when correctly installed.

Let me know if you need any help you can call me anytime - but in the meantime get your feet wet. 



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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Joe Lyddon said:


> OK Mike... I was wondering about that... :laughing:
> 
> Thank you...
> 
> ...


For the finish, I started with a coat of shellac. Then about four coats of lacquer, sanding with 0000 steel wool in between coats. Part of the reason the wood looked so light in the unfinished pics is the sanding dust stuck to it. Canary wood is one of my favorites. It's hard to find it with the maroon streaks in it. When I see it at our local woodcraft, I buy it and save it for a special project like this one.
Mike Hawkins


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Wow, great humidor Mike. I love the splines.


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

I took a look at my router table... Looks like this jig would slide over the bit very nicely...

Anyone use it a router table?

Any unforseen problems... clamping, etc.?


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Anyone use it a router table?


I suppose one could, but why would you want to? One of the main advantages of the Kehoe is that you can use a handheld router and install the splines to any length workpiece, and so you are not *confined* to the router table. 

A router table is handy in many situations, and even excels in many areas where a handheld router is inadequate, but this isn't one of them. Stick with the handheld router when using the Kehoe Joe and you'll be much better off. :yes:

For example, can you imagine sliding a 24" x 48" blanket chest across a router table? Not my cup of tea. :no:





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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

I would NOT think of putting a huge piece of furniture on the router table...

Maybe I should have said 
"Has anyone used the Kehoe jig for small items like boxes, etc., that could EASILY be controlled, on the router table?"

I just put the jig on the router table, Flat side down, slid it around as if I was routing, and it really appeared that it could be EASILY done. Then I wondered if anyone else had tried it...

Any reasons to NOT try it? Anything to look out for?

Thank you...


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Any reasons to NOT try it? Anything to look out for?



To my thinking it would put your fingers more at risk, because when you're using the hand held router your fingers are busy holding it and can't accidentally come into contact with the bit. And I guess I'm having trouble understanding why you would want to even do it, unless you don't have a router other than the one in your table. 

Personally I can't see how it could be more advantageous than using a free hand router in way, shape, or form - but that's just me. If you're determined to do it nothing I say will stop you. :no: Let us know how you like it if you try it. 




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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

Kevin,

I picture my hands being more above the jig and around the box, etc. ... no where near the bit...

I thought there may be problems clamping things down, etc. BUT ALWAYS making safe cuts.

I would feel that I would have more 'control' over the cuts by moving the workpiece/jig over the bit where it could NOT tilt accidentally making a bad cut.

*Another question:*
If I used a 1/4" straight bit... it looks like I would get 1/4" (+- 1*) spline cuts.
Cutting the Splines would be simply cut starting off with a square vertical cut, then flipping, cutting, flipping, cutting, etc. to get the splines for the jig cuts...
Am I thinking right on this part?

In determining the width stop for spline cuts... At the leading edge of the spline going into the blade... should it be a "scouch" over or under 1/4"?


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Joe I am sure it is not my place to speak up and say what I am about to say...but that has never stopped me before :blush:...You are way over thinking this man. Just clamp the jig on and go to town. If you feel uncomfortable practice 1-2 times on a scrap (I did on the edge of my old workbench) Then it will become second nature.

Let me tell you my experience with the jig. Some of this is personal between Kevin and I, I hope he doesn't mind. When he was first looking at getting this company (and I did not know he was, he was keeping that under his hat) He wanted me to check out the jig and sent me his old personal one to try, then return. 

Let me back up and tell you more. I am not a "router guy", that is just one tool I am not fond of, for whatever reason I am just not. I know the vast majority of woodworkers simply cannot live without theirs...I could take it or leave it in my work most of the time.

And another thing I am not "an instructions guy" either now that I am typing might as well tell all.

So back to my first experience with the jig. Kevin talks to me and says "I know you are not a router guy, or a gadget guy for that matter, but you gotta check this thing out"...so I did.

Not being an instructions guy I just took it out of the box, pretty much had it figured out how it worked and made something. Piece of cake. It was just a "practice" thing, did some inlays on a cutting board. Then I made a stool and found how strong the joint was. I have since made several stools, a chair, some boxes...

So like I said in my first paragraph, not my place to tell you what to do...but quit overthinking it and give it whirl. I know you will like it. :icon_smile:






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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Joe, yeah what Daren said.  

To answer your spline question, yes it makes great non-dovetail splines. And as you might guess you can get them as tight as you can the dovetail splines. All you need to do in order to make straight splines is cut them the same as you do dovetail splines just keep the blade at a perfect 90º (0º on the scale) and cut your splines using your table or miter saw spline maker the same as you do when cutting dovetail splines. 



Joe Lyddon said:


> If I used a 1/4" straight bit... it looks like I would get 1/4" (+- 1*) spline cuts.


Your 1/4" will make an opening larger than 1/4" at the open side of the slots. If the bit has a 5/8" bearing or guide bushing on it, as it clears the corner of the workpiece and reaches the end of the cutting slot the 5/8" bearing will stop at the end of the slot radius with no space between the OD of the bearing and the ID of the end radius (this on a K-12 & K-24; K-8 end radius is 1/2"). This will mean that as you start to enter the backside of the joint on your pull cut, the slot will have opened up just a hair and so backside of the spline groove in the work piece will be just a hair bigger than the 1/4" bit (or whatever size bit you're using). 

To get the right size spline, cut one on your table saw that is a hair wider than 1/4" on the narrow side. Use a spline blank that's about 1 3/4" in width so it's wide enough to give a little room for error, but not so wide that being a hair wider than 1/4" on the narrow end means being 3/4" on the other end (!). 

The sled will take care of the 1º taper. Set your bevel to zero, shave the end of your spline blank to get the 1º taper, and then after you have zeroed in on the right spacing (using a stop block or a pencil mark on the conveyor which is my favorite method) then as you said you can proceed to cut, flip, cut, flip, cut, flip. 

The whole process of finding the right spacing (and bevel) when setting up for a new type of spline should take no more than 5 minutes once you have done it a time or two, and doing so the first time shouldn't be difficult either for a man with your experience and for one especially who has met George Nakashima. 

As always let me know if you need more help and I can elaborate further. 












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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

Thank you, Daren for your very good comments...

Kevin, thank you for yours too... When you really "think" (which I didn't do), if I use a 1/4" straight bit, it's NOT going to cut a slot any smaller than 1/4"... duh... talk about being brain dead! 

I really like working with routers... I'd rather use one in a table than hand held... I just feel safer and more in control on the table... I have & DO use them handheld though... but I've found that one has to be extra careful NOT to tilt it the wrong way... One joggle & you have a bad cut... That's why I always try to think Table first... if I can.

I will jump in and get my feet wet... hopefully this week... I have other projects I'd like to clear up first... Maybe when I take a break, I'll do it.

Thank you for the help...


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## Cracker749 (Sep 1, 2010)

This is probably a stupid question, but can you spline inside corners?


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

I don't know... BUT, my guess would be "From the Outside In"...
... and, if you want to see them, cut the slot 'deeper'... :confused1: :confused1:  :laughing:


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