# Glue Block Question & Ideas



## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

So I have a question for experienced turners or any one who might know. 
Is it safe/feasible to use 2X6's or 8's, 10's or 12's of untreated wood (pine/spruce) as glue blocks? 

My idea is to use a cut these to size and turn it down to the size of a need glue Block. Or you a hole drill bit 2 inches or bigger and use that piece as the glue Block. 

Is pine strong enough? Advantages/Disadvantages?


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## cuerodoc (Jan 27, 2012)

Pine is fine!
I used glue blocks before i got my chucks. You just have to plan your cuts/shaping. And yes- the newspaper is important.


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

Ok so enlightened me on the newspaper? I plan on gluing my bowl blank to the glue block and putting my glue Block in the chuck.... Are we in the same page? Or am I missing something?


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Ack said:


> My idea is to use a cut these to size and turn it down to the size of a need glue Block. Or you a hole drill bit 2 inches or bigger and use that piece as the glue Block.


Hi Ack , 
how are you going to attach the glueblock to the lathe spindle , 
and what is the 2 inch hole for ?


The layer of paper is glued between the two pieces of wood . It does not weaken the bond , it makes parting the join with a mallet and chisel easier .
Test it out with two bits of wood and a bit of paper , newsprint , brown paper , craft paper etc.


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

I knew I did not explain well. I have actually thought about using a bit that drills out a perfect circle? For the life of me I can not think of the name of the bit. It leaves you with a perfectly round piece of wood about 2 inches or more (depends on the size of the bit). I figured these could be used for glue blocks? I thought it was ingenious hahaha. I will find the name of them

It is cylinder shaped with saw teeth on one end attaches to a drill or drill press..... Help?


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

:yes: Hole saws .
Good idea :thumbsup:

Are you using a scroll chuck ? 
If so , make sure that the newly cut round has a clean sharp edge and flat smooth face , and preferably a dovetail to match the chuck jaw


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

Yes a hole saw. Kept thinking drill.... OK so bear with me what is a scroll chuck? I have the super nova2 and G3 chuck.?


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Ack said:


> I have the super nova2 and G3 chuck.?


 Then you have two scroll chucks :icon_smile:
I have the Titan and Super Nova 2 too .
What lathe are you driving ?


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

Nova 16-24. So the idea will work? Even with just pine from an untreated 2x6 or whatever?


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Ack said:


> Nova 16-24. So the idea will work? Even with just pine from an untreated 2x6 or whatever?


Yep , good healthy wood is whats needed .
unless you are using the deep Powergrip jaws , inch timber will do.
I see that some folks in North America go with syp pine , whatever that is .
No need for it to be treated , best if it is not treated.

What are you making ?


DVR XP here


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

Nothing at the moment but I'd like to use glue blocks when I need to. I like Lyle Jamieson idea of glue blocks. I turn mostly bowls..


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

And I think not real sure but syp pine stands for "spruce, yellowwood, or pine" at least the "syp" part. Ha. But that's the type I'm thinking about using


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Ack said:


> And I think not real sure but syp pine stands for "spruce, yellowwood, or pine" at least the "syp" part. Ha. But that's the type I'm thinking about using



SPF = Spruce, Pine, Fir

SYP = Southern Yellow Pine. :smile:


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

Yeah that's it!


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

Nobody has mentioned it yet, but before you glue things together you need to flatten both faces perfectly flat so that there are no gaps between the pieces of wood. This is normally done on the glue block by putting it in the chuck and using a gouge to get a smooth flat face. Use a straightedge to verify that the face is flat. Using a hole saw sounds nice, but it is really not necessary -- just start with a square piece and turn the corners off with a bowl gouge. On the turning blank, mount it between centers and then true up one face.

Personally, I see no reason for using a glue block if you have scroll chucks. A glue block is typically used with a faceplate and keeps you from putting screw holes in the good wood.

Here is what I do:


Starting between centers, I use a parting tool or bowl gouge to make a small tenon about ¼" long and a diameter that is roughly ¼ to ⅓ of the planned final diameter of your bowl (for a bowl with a final diameter of 8" this would be approximately 2 - 2½" diameter tenon). It is easier if you put this tenon on the side that facing the tailstock because you will have more working room.
While the piece is still between centers, go ahead and shape the exterior.
Next, put the chuck on the spindle and chuck the tenon that you created earlier to hold the piece of wood.
The exterior may not run perfectly true once you turn the piece around and mount it in the chuck so the first thing to do now is use the bowl gouge to re-true the exterior before moving on to the interior.
I would suggest keeping tailstock pressure against the piece of wood when you start turning the interior of the bowl. Keep the tailstock in place as long as you are able to turn the interior without it getting in the way. Once you remove the tailstock, make sure that you do not get aggressive when cutting the wood or else you could wind up knocking the wood out of the chuck.
Finally, when the bowl is done and the tenon needs to be reshaped into a suitable foot, use a piece of your pine to make a friction chuck -- that basically looks like a waste block except instead of being flat, it is rounded to match the curvature of the interior of the bowl. A diameter of 2 -3 inches is about the right size. Put a piece of thin material like an old mouse pad or Funky Foam sheet or drawer liner material between this friction chuck and the inside of the bowl. Bring up the tailstock to hold the bowl firmly in place and then at a slow lathe speed, carefully turn the tenon away and create a nice foot. The foot should have a concave bottom so that it won't rock when placed on a table.
Remove the completed bowl from your lathe and apply a finish of your choice.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

I agree with what has been said but... then you bring up Lyle Jamieson and that may be a reset to me.
Lyle normally turns green wood and you do not want to use paper (news, craft, etc) with green wood. He also uses CA glue not wood glue (titebond or yellow). Wood glue will not adhere well to wet/green wood. I do not know if you have watched his full video or his youtube post but I agree he is very through.
You do not say what thickness your blank is or whether it is dry or green. 
Glue blocks are fine but if thickness permits, the wormwood screw (which you have) holds just as well and is much quicker.

If you haven't watched it you may want to view Mike Peace's video which covers almost every holding method. About 1.5 hours.


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## Bill Boehme (Feb 9, 2014)

NCPaladin said:


> I agree with what has been said but... then you bring up Lyle Jamieson and that may be a reset to me.
> Lyle normally turns green wood and you do not want to use paper (news, craft, etc) with green wood. He also uses CA glue not wood glue (titebond or yellow). Wood glue will not adhere well to wet/green wood. I do not know if you have watched his full video or his youtube post but I agree he is very through.
> You do not say what thickness your blank is or whether it is dry or green.
> Glue blocks are fine but if thickness permits, the wormwood screw (which you have) holds just as well and is much quicker.....


All excellent points. I had forgotten about the woodworm screw since it has been such a long time since I last used them, but they are a very good way to hold a blank while roughing the exterior and turning a tenon. The method of mounting the blank between centers that I described above is a more advanced technique that requires balancing the piece first. You shouldn't try it unless you are familiar with balancing a piece of wood to minimize vibration.


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

Thank you both (Bill and NCPaladin) for your insight here. You've got me thinking I don't actually need a glue block. I have not seen the complete series of Lyle Jamieson video and failed to realize he always uses a faceplate. This is where the difference lies I believe. 

I've done most of my turning the way Bill has laid it out with the exception of a few steps that I now will be including. Thanks again! 

All the wood I have as of now is wet wood. Nothing dry. So wet blanks is what I'll be using.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Ack , 
if you have either of these ,
you could use them . 










screw to flat surface on the blank , and thread onto the spindle 










screw to blank and grip with jaws .


Screw the plate to the side/end of the blank that will be the top of the bowl ( with good sturdy screws with a wood thread , and seeing as your wood is wet , make them longer , not shorter) , and turn the tenon for the jaws on the base .

Did you buy the Nova lathe new or second hand ?


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## Ack (Mar 13, 2009)

I bought the lathe second hand technically. The man I bought it from never turned a single thing on it. It was in perfect condition for half the price. I really enjoy the lathe but I'm looking into creating a stand that either connects to the existing legs or build a new stand to add a lot of weight to the lathe. Thanks again for the advice. 

Any suggestions on a lathe stand?


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

I built a cabinet bench for mine and weighed it down by loading the drawers with metal tools etc .
It is still to light for the large outboard turning I like to play around with .
That may be due to the fact that the lathe sits along the front edge of the benchtop and thus is not at the apex of a triangle as it would be on the cast iron stand . 
With the extra bed sections I have , 3 stand frames to span 2.2 metres would cost me NZ$ 1200.00 plus .

I am thinking of milling the top of a large hardwood log to fit the bed onto , and using smaller logs for legs .


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