# Aircraft Carrier and Chest In Work Pics



## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

I had the chest started a week or so ago but got sidetracked as I normally do today and spent a few hours messing around. That's where the aircraft carrier shadow box came to life. Now I have to figure out how to get the glass cut for the odd shape? I normally cut glass myself but it's always standard cuts. If anyone has suggestions or directions on how to cut...inside corner-type cuts, please let me know. I'll post more pics as I get the chest top glued up and the shadow box stained and finished.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

That's going to be super cool. But I would just cut that frame from one piece for several reasons. 

Too bad she's not CV-6. My personal favorite.


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

TexasTimbers said:


> That's going to be super cool. But I would just cut that frame from one piece for several reasons.
> 
> One piece.....how would you do that? It's about 38 inches long and about 14 inches wide. The depth of it is about 3 inches and the facing piece has about 1/2 inch lip to hold the glass when I insert in from the back....that would be a pretty large chunk of oak and a ton of sawdust to cut this from on piece.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Al B Cuttn Wud said:


> One piece.....how would you do that?


Figure it out yourself or call a Chief to solve the problem for you.


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## John in Tennessee (Jun 11, 2008)

That was cold........................


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Only a suggestion, but you might want to consider plexi-glass or lexan for the glass. That would definately solve your cutting delima. Just a thought. Great work by the way.:thumbsup:
Ken


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

I'd use Lexan. I'm sure that a stain glass artist could do it but, the labor costs might be prohibitive
Nice looking projects. 
Gene


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

Thanks gents for the recommendation to use Lexan. That would be much more user friendly and should be able to cut with the bandsaw. I did find a place locally that says they can cut glass with a water jet but almost afraid to get a quote..ha.


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## 2lim (Aug 30, 2009)

A little advice form a newbie here. I am a glazier, have been for long enough to feel confident in telling you that lexan probably isn't going to do that shadow box justice. It tends to scratch very easily(we custom cut glass, plexi, lexan, and pyro where I work). To cut a piece of glass in that manner, I would suggest buying a small diamond tube bit from a hardware store, and at every corner in your design, drill a small hole. You can now score, and run your cuts from hole to hole, and you should get a pretty decent piece. Just make sure that your holes are covered by the rabbet in the shadow box.

Simon


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I agree with Simon on the lexan. Any of the "plastic" type of materials are going to scratch over time. I would not want a shadow box of the significance that you are making to have any detractions.

G


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Al,

Disregarding my poor attempt at humor, yes it would be a nice chunk of wood. Wouldn't be that hard to find though. If you make another like that in the future holler at me. I know I have one walnut log out there right at 30" so getting you a pith-free piece that size shouldn't be a problem. Even if it had a little, you'd be cutting 99% of it out anyway, and with so little wood left you'd have no trouble restraining movement. 

I'm not saying it's not going to be outrageously cool like it is, because it is. But if the perimeter of the deck will be visible and it looks like it will, I just think it would look even better without all the joint lines. 

Re: the glass, I'm not a glass mason but 2lim makes a good point. He did leave out one key step. After you drill your holes at each adjoining angle, you will also have to etch a line from the hole all the way out to the edge of the glass. 











Have the glass rectangle cut so there's not much overhang.


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## TheRecklessOne (Jul 22, 2008)

Al, 

Cool work man! Never seen a carrier shaped shadowbox. Just so long as its not the USS Carl Vinson...worst of the 3 ships I served on. :thumbdown: Either way that was a good idea. A lot more angles than I'd try to tackle... Keep it up!:thumbsup:

P.s TexasTimbers must know you're an officer..:laughing:

Take care!


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## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

Nice work Al. I was wondering how you were doing on the chest. That looks great and the CVN shadowbox? Who came up with that idea? It is a one of a kind without a doubt.

I used lexan on the shadowbox I made. Glass is too fragile and I didn't want any problems in the future. Especially the way the box was put together and the pain of replacing the glass pushed me to the lexan.


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

Simon,
Thanks for the info on going with glass. I've got plenty of scrap I can play around with. I looked at a sheet of lexan at Home Depot yesterday and think I'll try to the glass first.


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## toolman Steve (Jun 11, 2009)

I just want to say that this is one of the most exciting projects I have ever seen. Please show us the finished project when it is done. Great job , keep up the good work.


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

No worries, I made the assumption you was joking around. Ironically, you mentioned CV-6. I recently made 2 deployments on current USS Enterprise, 2006 and 2007....that was 19 of 24 months at sea when taking into account all the work up at-sea periods. Not fun, not fun at all!!!

Thanks for taking the time to draw out the glass cuts. I'm pretty comfortable making normal cuts so hoping by drilling the holes in the corners will work out. 

It would be something if it were one piece, so might try that the next time. A nice log of walnut would really be sweet! I had attempted to go with one piece for a Machinist Mate shadow box (pic in my photos) but after a few unfixable chunks ripped out by a router bit, I decided against for this go around. I sanded, routed and stained last night and the joints seemed to blend in pretty good. I'll shoot some more pics when I make a little more progress.


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

As for the chest, I've got the top all cut out, just need to put it together. Getting the bottom part together was a pain in the tail. I would get one side good and as I progressed, something would shift and have to go back and forth. Not to mention, I used a small open container of glue with an acid brush to apply....dump that all over everything in the panic. I used your advice on the straps, everything cinched up nice and tight. I was going to go with maple at first but the person I'm making if wanted oak to go along with the rest of his house. In effort to spice it up a little, I used walnut for the panels. I'll post pics when I get the top complete.


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## The Everyman Show (Jul 10, 2009)

Al very nice job - as usual :thumbsup: - this box looks great so far I also would love to see pics of it complete. I don't know how the funky shaped glass will turn out, but to say I am interested is a massive understatement. I myself would have gone for the lexan and not even considered actual glass but from the feed back and suggestions you are getting it certainly seems it is possible.


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

I'd get a quote from the waterjet guy. Shop time is usually $70-$100 and hour and I bet it's only a 15 minute job. I used to run a laser and we'd etch glass, then break it. But a laser has a tendency to reflect off the glass instead of going through it. That's why we just etched it.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Al, that's really cool. I couldn't figure out how the hell you thought that resembled a carrier until I realized it wasn't a profile view but an aerial view. Too slick. I look forward to seeing the finished product.


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

> Al, that's really cool. I couldn't figure out how the hell you thought that resembled a carrier until I realized it wasn't a profile view but an aerial view.


Oh Frank. You have to get out more.:laughing:


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## John in Tennessee (Jun 11, 2008)

*I vote for the glass but...................*

I would use 1/4-3/8 tempered glass. It's real tough and the only weak point (edges) will be eliminated. Yes it will cost more but it will be stronger and safer. Not to mention with no scratches. This project means a lot to you. Go with the good stuff. Now my disclaimer If this has been mentioned forgive as I'm having eye problems. Just had another idea.Take the frame to the glass shop so there is no doubt about the measurements.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Al B Cuttn Wud said:


> Thanks for taking the time to draw out the glass cuts. I'm pretty comfortable making normal cuts so hoping by drilling the holes in the corners will work out.


I got pretty excited seeing this and I probably just wanted to be involved. . It's gotta be the coolest shadow box (once done) that I've ever seen. 



Al B Cuttn Wud said:


> A nice log of walnut would really be sweet! I had attempted to go with one piece for a Machinist Mate shadow box (pic in my photos) but after a few unfixable chunks ripped out by a router bit, I decided against for this go around.


If you want to give it a go next time I'll work something out so it's not prohibitive in cost. Also remember you can "top it off" with a thinner solid frame so you're not working with a 3" thick slab. You could assemble the frame as you did and glue a 1/2" ~ 3/4" solid laminate over it. 

I sound like I am highly critical of the exposed joints but I am not, they look good as they are. I just think a solid would give it a more refined look. Keep up the good work can't wait to see it finished. 

P.S. Reckless was right about why I was ribbing you. :icon_cheesygrin:


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

*Glass Cutting 101*

Well....I made a few visits to frame and glass cutting places and I was told "can't do that shape" before I broke the plane of the door good. So I figured I'd give it the college try with a $7 piece of glass and a $11 glass cutting bit. I was successful with some practice holes but didn't have the same luck with the real piece for the box. 

So back to the yellow pages to find a place that was willing to take on the challenge, just around the corner from where I live. The quote I got was $12 for the glass and $15 for the "custom cutting". I figure the $27 is well worth the trouble. :thumbsup: 

The carrier shadow box is all stained and finished so will be done once I get the glass back next week. I can't wait to get this finished and show it off!


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Can't beat that. Just goes to show that if you don't get the answer you need, keep asking until you find someone who can deliver. :thumbsup:


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

*Carrier Shadow Box progress update*

I got the glass back today for the carrier shadow box. The guy said he used a small saw, like a scroll saw to cut it. I wonder if there's a glass cutting blade I could use with my scroll saw....I'll have to look into that for next time I need special cuts. 

Anyway, here's a picture of one of the corners he cut. He did a great job, especially for the $30. The other pics are with the glass and backing board in place. I used a 45 degree chamfer bit to add a little shape to both the inside and outside edges of the facing and went with golden oak stain to help highlight the grain of the oak.

I'm shooting to get this one wrapped up in the next few days for my part so I can turn over to the guys at work to mount all the medals, flag, etc.


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

*Shadow Chest progress pic*

Here's a quick pic of the top of the shadow chest. I've got to plane some walnut panels and will use walnut plugs to cover the screw holes. I've been moving slow on this one but steadily making progress.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

That turned out superbly. The recipient is going to be floored I bet. Make sure someone films the moment he sees it. You can snatch awesome stills from video.


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