# Router Lift Help!!!



## howarddavidp (Jun 12, 2012)

Help!

I fallen, and I can't get up until I buy a router lift! 

Seriously, here is what I have, and plan to do:

Own:
Ryobi 1.5 Router + Low End Metal Table and Fence. Fence was improved with metal mitre fence. Problem: Router only takes 1/4 collet, no provision for 1/2 inch.

Porter Cable 690 Router: Love this, have the 1/4 and 1/2 collets. 1-3/4 HP. I have some 1/2 bits already.

General/Excalibur Cast Iron Router Table wing for my Jet JW-TS10JF saw.

What I cut: I plan to do some raised panel doors, not production, but a few, and maybe even will redo the kitchen at some point. I am 1 guy, and weekender, not a production shop by any means. I have a mix of hard and soft woods that I use. Aside from the doors I plan to make, I also make boxes for everything, and I also own guided bits for dovetails and making electric guitar bodies. I plan to try and make a neck in the future out of maple.

So, I need to know which lift to purchase. I have it down to either the Woodpecker/Sidewinder 350 or the 420. The main point of the crank lift is that it is 1 less crank for me to loose. I looked the the Kreg and other Jessem and Woodpecker lifts, but they all have the detachable cranks that I will most likely lose at some point. This is the main point for a sidewinder, nothing to loose except the inserts, and I usually make a holder for those that will attach under the wing.

Between the 350 and the 420, this is where I am stuck.

Pros and Cons of the model 350: Cheaper, will work out-of-box with the 690. Cons: Cannot expand to larger routers like the 7518 later on if needed. If I ever need to go to a bigger router, I will also need to buy another lift.

Pros and Cons of the model 420 : Can expand to the PC 7518/9 later if needed, bigger bits, sturdier constuctions (it seems). Cons: Price, need to buy $40 pads to make my 690 work now.

The only curveball I will throw in is that I have access to the woodshop on base at Ft. Belvoir, and they have several router tables and I think they even have a shaper too. It is open 5 days a week, and it only costs $5 per hour to use the shop. So, while I could save money and live with the 350, I would be able to go use the bigger stuff if needed on base. I did not buy a jointer b/c I use the one on base when needed, and this seems to work out fine so far. (Also use their 5HP TS's when needed if my Jet can't handle bigger rips).

So, do I spend the $400 ($360+$40 for mtr pads) and get the model 420, or do I get the 350 and save and then use the base shop if I have a bigger job?

Thanks, so far the advice from here has been dead on.

David


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I have this PRL-V2 unit, which is the same carriage as in the 420.

I have been using this for 2 or 3 years. Well built. I like having a post on either side of the router.

Hard to say which you should get. I normally go for the bigger or most robust of two options.


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## mattk8715 (Jan 22, 2010)

I have the Kreg router lift, which I'm pretty sure is exactly the same as the Woodpecker PRL-V2, just re-named and I'm sure I payed too much for it. I love it, awesome and user friendly. 

I think the PC 690 is a tad underpowered for a router table application IMO. I started w/ a PC 892, and now run a PC 7518 and it's a moose. The 892 treated me well though, nothing bad to say about it as routers go.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

It only costs a little more to go first class!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

howarddavidp said:


> Help!
> 
> 
> So, I need to know which lift to purchase. I have it down to either the Woodpecker/Sidewinder 350 or the 420. The main point of the crank lift is that it is 1 less crank for me to loose. *I looked the the Kreg and other Jessem and Woodpecker lifts, but they all have the detachable cranks that I will most likely lose at some point.* This is the main point for a sidewinder, nothing to loose except the inserts, and I usually make a holder for those that will attach under the wing.
> ...


I would not dismiss a router lift with a detachable crank.

http://jessem.com/MAST-R-LIFT_II.html

I just ordered and extra one or two with my JessEm Master Lift II units. I would be a little suspect of a right angle drive if that's what the Kreg units have. The JessEm are direct drive and the newer II units lock in place. The older one would change heights mid-cut so I was glad to see them improve on it. As far as the lift itself I was so impressed I got 3 of them and mounter one in the table saw extension wing:


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## Icutone2 (Nov 4, 2011)

I have a MLCS Power Lift. I love it . Works GREAT!
Lee


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## howarddavidp (Jun 12, 2012)

Well, what I am thinking this is what I should do:

Buy the bigger 420, and then I will buy a Porter Cable 7539 router used for $200 and put that in my table and leave it there. I read the 7539 and the 7518 share the same motor, and this would eliminate the need to buy the $40 motor pads for my 690, which might not have enough power to begin with (doubt this for most of my jobs, but when I get to raised panel doors...)

If I can't use the motor out of the 7539, please speak up, but I think it will work.

thanks,

David


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## howarddavidp (Jun 12, 2012)

Well,

I bought the 7539 plung router tonight used, got it home, and completely dissassembled it.

What I found out is that the motor housing is not the same as the bare motor. However, from ereplacementparts.com I was able to order the bare housing from the diagram of the motor only for $49.

I should most likely make a post explaining how to do this in case someone else thinks of going this way. It was not hard to take apart, except for the bottom armitage bolt that connects to the collet and nut. I saw a video, and they suggest you use an impact wrench to get it off, which I was lucky enough to have so this trick worked great. That bolt was torqued and frozen, but it came off easy with impact tools.

So, in about a week I will get the housing and I should be able to post if this will work.

FYI - I have a type 2 7539 plunge. Since I will use this on a router table mostly, I am NOT going to buy the switch, I will direct wire the router and use a remote switch for the table. The switch costs $27 for the motor type switch, and the one that comes with the plunge is a momentary on type, so you always have to hold it to make it run.

Wish me luck, if this fails I will have sort of wasted $200, and then I will still need to spend $270 for a bare 7518 motor.

Dave


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

which lift did you go with? details? am looking into lifts now and interested.


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## howarddavidp (Jun 12, 2012)

*I went with Woodpeckers 420 and PC 7518 router*

Hello,

I went with he WoodPecker Sidewinder 420. My thoughts were I would never have to upgrade, since this would be the biggest and best at the time of purchase. Also, I did not want to spend $40 on motor shims to hold my PC 690. I already have a cheap-o Ryobi benchtop table and a 1-3/4 router, which works great for what it is. So, I figured this setup would be for the "BIG JOBS" and I did not want to wonder what it would be like to have more power. So, small jobs gets the Ryobi, big jobs gets the 3HP PC/Woodpecker setup.

As stated, I bought a cheap PC7539 plunge and converted it for less than $50 to a 7518 motor. So, if you need to shop for a router, look for the bare 7518 motor, a 7518 standard, or a 7539 plunge and expect to spend $45 for the lower housing assembly online.

I love it, it works as good as expected, and it can cut any size doors with 3.5 IN bits without any problems.

I would not suggest the Sidewinder 350 unless you are 100% positive you will never do bigger doors. I would also suggest not getting the 420 unless you already have the bigger, 3HP router, as it defeats the point of getting a lift that big.

Dave


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