# Router for flattening slabs using sled



## zrodimel (Mar 23, 2016)

I am looking at buying a new router that will used primarily for flattening slabs via a router sled. I currently have a table-mounted Craftsman and a Ridgid trim router. I have a sled built for the trim router and use it for slab flattening currently but it's just not strong enough to keep up and I don't want to go very wide on a bit because of the 1/4" collet.

I'm open to suggestions on what to get I've been looking at the Dewalt DW618 with the d-handle. I can see the d-handle being really useful for pulling back and forth doing flattening work with a sled. Is that what that handle is for or am I misunderstanding it? 

Amazon has a nice package with the d-handle base and a plunge base for around $250.

I won't want to go much beyond that price point at this time. Musts for this purchase are variable speed and 1/4" and 1/2" collets.

Would this be a good router for this kind of work? Is there something better? Am I putting too much stock in thinking the d-handle will make use easier?

Thanks for the help!


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I have a very old Black and Decker 7613 router with something like a D handle. The router switch is in the handle itself. It is mid-size in size, but only 3/4 horsepower. It does not accept 1/2 inch shanks and it does not support a plunge base. I have to tip in and tip out. The only way to fix those issues is to replace the router. I keep looking at midsize router fixed/plunge sets, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. I really like the D handle on my old router. When I started looking for a new router, I wanted one with a D handle, based on my experience with the old router. 

The advantage of a D handle is that the router's trigger switch is built into the handle itself. You don't have to move your hand to start the router when you are guiding it by hand. If something goes bad, letting go switches the router off. D handles also come with a switch lock to keep the router running, for when you don't want to squeeze the trigger the entire time, like using it in a flattening sled.

Once the motor is running, I doubt that there is much difference between guiding a router with D handles and guiding one with rounded wood knobs. No doubt you can find people who prefer one over the other and vice versa. I have used both types. The difference is not significant; people adapt to whatever they are using. If you have arthritis or joint issues, you might consider your hand position on the router - palms sideways (D handles) or palms more down (wood handles). 

The drawback of a D handle is the connection between the base and the router motor. At one time, I was interested in the Bosch MRC23EVSK fixed/plunge set. I liked it because it comes with a D handle. That router has thin metal bars that form the electrical contacts between the base and the motor. The contacts transfer the switch on/off setting to the motor. If you remove the motor from the base, you have no easy way to turn the motor on. That is a big problem if you want to put the motor in a router lift. Bosch would argue that you don't need a lift, since one is built-in to the router, but it isn't the same. 

The similar Bosch 1617EVSPK set has wood handles and a switch on the motor. I wasn't interested until I learned about the router lift issue. I am not married to Bosch; they happened to have a D-handle router that I liked at one time. Who knows, maybe I'll get a Porter-Cable or other brand of router someday.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

go with 1/2" shank bits. the vibration/chatter is much less - the size is much stronger, they don't snap off all too easy.


for flattening slabs using a sled, holding a trigger for long periods of time is not the best solution.
it's a sled - it will/should have a "run off" area where you can start/stop/depth adjust.


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

Don't even think about flattening a slab with a 1/4 shank bit, either the bit will break, or the motor will fail. If you have to flatten with a router, get a half inch shank router with at least 2 HP. Go light on the passes, not too deep. Remember that the router bit is tearing the wood against the grain rather than planing with the grain, you need a very sharp bit and enough power to cut consistently through a large slab. I realize lots of people are flattening slabs this way, but if the slab is large, you should look into whether there is a mill nearby with a large planer. A planer cuts with the grain vs against the grain and leaves a MUCH cleaner cut. It may cost a few bucks to have it milled, but compare that with the cost of a new router, bit the sled and all the time you will spend sanding that slab.

I recently built a 10' x 43" black walnut dining table using a live edge slab. The saw mill where I bought the slab advertised a 100" planer. They showed me this monster (four independent helical 33" cutting heads) and then told me they could flatten the slab for me. The cost was about $250 to have it flattened on both sides. I factored in my sanding time and the cost of building a sled as well as the MUCH better finish and easily agreed to have the mill flatten the slab. When I picked it up, it was almost finish ready. No tear out, chips or defects at all. Even the knots in the slab were smooth and well preserved. All it needed was a light sanding with 220 grit and it was ready for finish.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ways to flatten a slab ......*

There are ways other than a router and sled to flatten a slab, especially a large one. A hand held power planer comes to mind to start with. This woodworker uses one to flatten very large slabs combined with "winding sticks", and belt and ROS sanders:
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5606c048e4b052251e9f720b/t/580f9cefb3db2b9be8c82df3/1477418227160/Flattening+large+slabs+%282%29.pdf






 

Another method involves a "planer head" in a radial arm saw:






If you need advice for the router, I would use a 3 1/4 HP Porter Cable 7518 router which accepts 1/2" bits and has a rocker switch on the top. So, no need to constantly hold down a momentary switch for long periods. This is the same router motor I use in my router tables and will run deep passes with large diameter cutters. It is fairly noisy, however. Really any of the Porter Cable routers shown here would be a good choice and that would be based on your budget of course:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=porter+c...512354&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_58wjpk1su3_e

I would go with this one which has variable speed and accepts 1/2" 

bits and is priced reasonably:
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE...er+cable+7518&qid=1566970398&s=gateway&sr=8-6



:vs_cool:


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Restating what I said above: 

My very old Black and Decker router with a trigger switch and D-handles has a lock button. Hold the trigger down, press the lock button, and the router keeps running until you press the trigger to release the lock. The trigger lock is easy to engage and disengage. When the trigger lock is engaged, you do not have to hold the trigger down while operating the router; just use it like any other router with a fixed on/off switch. 

I assume that other brands of D-handle router have a similar trigger lock mechanism, especially routers with more than one horse inside that might be run for long periods. The D-handle Bosch MRC23EVSK has a trigger lock. Who would make a D-handle router without it? Who would buy one if they did?


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

IMO a 2HP is the minimum. I don't see any advantage to a D handle in this application.


A lot will depend on how large the area is. For a large area you would want a large bit, which means a big router.


Personally, I use a Triton 3 1/4HP router with a 2" planer bit. With that comes the consideration of the width of the slab and the tendency for the sled to sag due to the weight of the big router.



I used it to flatten the top of of a workbench I made from a section of bowling alley lane. 40X80" (This was my Hitachi M12 router before it died)


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

I love the idea of re-using bowling lane hardwood for a bench, curious how you got your hands on it...


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

Ed - back in the mid '80s, I happened to pass by my local bowling alley
that had been sold to a restaurant chain and they were gutting the inside.
removing the lanes with wrecking equipment and tossing it outside for anyone
to grab. I got a pickup load of Hard Rock Maple for $50. of course most of it
was split and splintered, but still very usable in the hands of a Craftsman.

_that_ is how you find it - just by pure luck. (just keep your eyes open).

.

.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

EdS said:


> I love the idea of re-using bowling lane hardwood for a bench, curious how you got your hands on it...


A friend of mine got several sections from a friend of his who did demolition work.


I see it on Craigslist around me from time to time.


If you every get some for a workbench I highly recommend taking it apart, removing all the nails (they usually aren't glued together) and reassemble using glue.


Why? You'll find out when you start drilling dog holes they use hardened nails :wink:


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## JohnGi (May 9, 2019)

The 3 1/4 hp Porter Cable routers are in a class by themselves for power and durability as far as I'm concerned. They are the only hand held router that acts at all like the spindle in a stationary machine. I built several into production machines when I couldn't justify the cost of a Perske, and they held up very well. In my own shop, it is the tool I've used to flatten slabs. They are heavy and don't handle easily for light intricate cuts.


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

I agree JohnGI, I have two PC 3 1/4 hp routers, one in my router table and another set up with the plunge base. They are workhorse machines and handle big jobs with ease. I also agree they are a little heavy and hard to use for some applications, but like anything, choosing the right tool for the job sure makes the process easier.


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