# As requested-Picture frames, a tutorial



## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

So, I headed out to the shop today to work on a few small projects and I figured that I would honour the request for a picture frame tutorial. So, without further delay, here we go. :thumbsup:



There are several things to consider when building a picture frame. First of all, there is the size of the picture. Secondly there is they type of backer that you will be using. Thirdly, is the thickness of glass or plexi that will be used. Fourthly, you will want to know what material you are using and lastly, you will want to decide whether the picture will be held in with brads, photo turns or another method.

The requested size of this frame tutorial was a 5"X7", so that was already decided for me. Next, I decided that I was going to make a walnut frame, with a hardboard backer, 1/16" plexi and I wanted to hold the photo in with small brads when everything was said and done.

With that out of the way, let's get started.

It was a little cold out in the shop today with the thermometer only reading 1 degree. That's 33.8 for my American friends. So I lit the wood stove, threw on my toque and got to work.









Because I decided that I was going to use hardboard as my backer, the first step is to cut the backer board to the same dimensions as the picture that will be in the frame.









The backer board is then checked to ensure that it is the correct dimensions and that the four corners are square. This is important because the backer board is what the frame will be built around and it is the reference point for all measurements from here on in.









I had an off cut of walnut sitting up in the rack and decided that I would use that for my frame. I'm not even sure what the thickness is, but I think that it was around 3/4".









It's time to start squaring things up. There are a lot of factors that can affect the miters in your frame. You want to be sure that you are checking your table saw blade for square before cutting and that you are doing test cuts with your miter gauge to make sure that your final cut on your stock will be 45 degrees. Making perfect 45 degree cuts with your miter gauge is useless if you blade is not square to the table. You will create nothing but gaps and frustration. Take the time to check your equipment. If you are in a hurry, then this tutorial is not for you and maybe you should hit Walmart and give them your money for a piece of junk frame that you will never be happy with. A home made frame might take a lot longer, but the end result will be something that you will be proud of every time that you look at it. With that rant being over, I now head over to the jointer and check that my fence is square to the bed of the jointer.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I face jointed and edge jointed the walnut to make sure that I had nice perpendicular surfaces to use as a reference point for the rest of my cuts.









From there, I checked my jointing with a straight edge and a square. Happy that the board was perfectly flat, and the edge was 90 degrees to the surface, I moved on.









From there, it was time to get out the thickness planer. I wasn't too concerned about the final thickness; I just wanted to plane the board enough to make the unjointed surface, parallel with my jointed surface. As you can see, I was quite happy to be doing this. :laughing: Or maybe I was happy that the temperature had risen enough to take my hat off. :laughing:









I'm not sure if this picture shows it or not, but apparently, my planer needs some adjusting. I have a small amount of snipe on the back end of the board. It is pretty minimal, but it can affect my frame, so I mark it, and cut it off. 









While I have my planer out and set up, I take the opportunity to plane some scrap maple down to a 1/4" thickness. You will understand the maple in a little while.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

The next step is to install my ripping blade into my table saw and check it for squareness to the table. 








I decide that I would like my frame slats to be 1 1/4" wide, so I set my fence at that measurement and rip my slats.









I also set my fence and rip some 5/16" wide strips of the 1/4" thick maple. Here, we can see the stock cut and ready for the next step. I know it doesn't look like much yet, but hang in there.









Here comes the funky part. You can omit this step if you want to, but this is what I wanted to do for my frame so that is what I did. I installed my dado blade to a configuration of 1/4" thick. I set the height of the dado at 3/16" and did a test cut in some scrap. I made sure that my 1/4" maple strips from earlier fit nicely into the test dado. 









From there, I cut a 3/16" deep, 1/4" dado down the center of each of my walnut strips. It is very important to pay attention to the orientation of the boards at this point. Be sure that you keep the boards oriented the same way for each cut.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Awe man i was just getting into this. Hurry back. Popcorn is done. Looking interesting.that was fast. :laughing:


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## gstanfield (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks for the how-to's Kenbo. I actually enjoy the reminders of checking for square, using safety equip, etc as it prompts me to do the same thing and not just go after my projects like a mad man on a killing spree! Plus, your how to threads explain things good enough to make me believe that even I can accomplish quality work!

Watching and waiting


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

To help keep me from mixing things up, I marked the side that would always be against the fence with a letter "F" using chalk. 









I then took a measurement of the thickness of my backer board and my plexi combined.









I added a little bit extra, to give me room to install my brad nails to hold my photo in and decided that 5/16" would be plenty. I then set the height of my dado to correspond with this measurement. If I were to use photo turns to secure my picture in, the height of the dado blade would equal the thickness of the backer board, the plexi and the picture combined so that the backer board will sit flush with the back of the frame. Seeing that I'm not using photo turns for this one, I don't need to worry about that.









I then flip the slats over and cut a 5/16" deep, 1/4" wide rabbet in the other side of the slats, being sure to pay attention to board orientation, keeping the letter "F" against the fence while cutting. The reason for keeping the orientation the same, is if the previously cut dado is not exactly centered on the slats, they will not line up once the frame is assembled.









Looking at the end of the slats, you should have a profile that looks something like this.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then checked to make sure that my previously cut maple strips, fit into my centered dados on the walnut slats. See where I'm going with this yet? They are a nice tight fit, so I move on.









I then ran a bead of wood glue into the dado and clamped the strips in place. I'm not too worried about squeeze out on this one, but now, I sit and wait for the glue to dry.
















:whistling2::yawn::whistling2::yawn:









Okay, the glue is dry so I head to the planer to trim down my maple and make it flush with the rest of the slat. As you can see, I'm happy to be out of that bulky sweat shirt and down to a t-shirt. Or maybe I'm just happy to be woodworking. :thumbsup:









At this point, you should have some slats that look like this.









Now it's time to start with the 45's. I set up my miter gauge for the table saw, installed my fine crosscut blade, checked it for square and made a test cut on a piece of scrap. It's actually a good thing that I did do a test cut because my gauge was a little off. I adjusted the gauge, made another test cut and once I was satisfied with the 45, I cut each end of each slat at 45 degress. If I hadn't done the test cut and checked the test, my frame would have been a disaster from this point.









You want to be sure that these 45 degree angles are cut in such a way, so that when the frame is assembled, the previously cut rabbet will be on the inside of the frame.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

There are many factors that will affect the measurement that you set your stop on your miter fence while cutting a picture frame. If you are looking for those magical numbers, I don't have them. The width of the slats will greatly change the setting of the stop. I will, however, show you a foolproof method of cutting your frame to suit your backboard size. It is up to you from there, to record your fence stop settings for future frame builds. Remember though, the measurements that you record are ONLY valid if all other dimensions are identical. It is for that reason, that I don't use measurements for this part and I build the frame around the backer board. 
With the initial 45's cut in the slats, it is time to cut the slats to length. I am pointing at the corner, that your backer board has to line up with when the frame is assembled. A lot of people make the mistake of measuring their frame to the inner most corner. This will result in a frame that is too big. Place your backer board in the rabbet cut and line up the edge of the backer with the corner that I am pointing to with the pencil.









Then, mark a line on the slat at the opposite end of the backer board.









Draw a line squarely across the slat at this mark. Try to follow along here, because I'm probably going to confuse myself and I'm going to need you to set me straight. 









Then draw a line, using your combo square, to simulate where the 45 will be cut.









You should have something that looks like this.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Transfer the markings all the way around the frame, being sure that your 45's are angled the correct way. Don't laugh, I've screwed it up. 









With all of these lines in place, you should have some pretty good reference lines to set your stop on your miter fence. I usually set the fence so that the blade is about 1/8" outside of the line. I then cut the 45 and creep up on the line until I have the proper measurement.









Lining up the backer board with the corner that I previously pointed out, check to see that your backer board is about 1/16" shy of the opposite corner of the slat. You want a little play in the backer board and 1/16" is a good amount of play.









With the stop already set at the proper length now, go ahead and cut the matching opposite slat of the frame. Be sure to pay attention to which way the angles are being cut. As a little tip, I usually cut the longer slats first, that way, if I screw up on which way the angles go, there is usually enough room that I can at least cut a shorter side of the frame from the screwed up longer slat. 









Using the same method as I just described, go ahead and cut the rest of the frame pieces. This time, however, you will be using the shorter end of the backer board as your reference for cutting.
You should now have something that looks like this.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Okay, now we are getting somewhere. Time for a dry fitting. Get out your frame clamp. There are many different types and I have used quite a few of them, but this one is my favourite, by far. Set your frame in your frame clamp and dry clamp it together. Make sure that you 45's are lined up nicely and that your maple inlays are lined up. Don't forget to flip it over and make sure that your backer board fits as well.
















I then headed over to the router table and installed a small roundover bit. I want to soften the sharp profile edge of the inside of the frame window. This is better done before the frame is assembled. If you like, this step can also be done before the 45's are cut. That works as well.









I then used my small straight edge to allign my router fence with the bearing of my roundover bit.









I then routed the inside edge of the front face of each of the slat pieces. Don't be a hero here guys. Use eye protection, hearing protection and push pads/ sticks etc. It's never a good time to lose a finger over the sake of not using safety equipment.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Time for the glue up. I applied a generous amount of glue to the inside surface of the 45 cuts. I spread the glue evenly around the surface and clamped it tight. Don't forget to pay attention to allignment here. A little extra care can make the difference between a so-so frame and a great frame. You may notice the waxed paper under the frame. This works great in preventing the frame from sticking to your bench.









You can see here that there is a little bit of squeeze out. It is important to clean this up. I use Q-tips and water to clean and dry these areas. Be sure to clean the squeeze out on the front and the back. Squeeze out in the rabbet where your plexi and picture are supposed to go can make it so that the picture doesn't fit correctly.










Here we are, with the squeeze out cleaned up. You can see by the top right corner, that when the finish is applied, this frame is going to have some really nice contrast.









Okay, the frame is dry and it is time for a quick sanding.
I used my orbital sander to clean it up a bit and take off the fuzziness left by the water and Q-tips.










You should now have something that looks like this.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

Ken nice tutorial:thumbsup:
im curious who take your pics?


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Ken, you are a machine. Very nice looking frame.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

*Wait!!! We're not done*

Well, we are in the home stretch now. In my opinion, just glueing the 45's together is not a sufficient way to properly assemble a frame of any kind. There needs to be some other structural member, such as brad nails. Me personally, I hate brad nails. I prefer splines. Contrasting splines in this case, but if you don't like contrast, make the splines out of the same species of wood.
I installed my ripping blade and ensured that it was square to the table. Don't forget this step in any woodworking that you do guys. Taking 10 seconds to check a blade for square is what separates the woodworkers from the hacks.









I then got out my spline jig. This one is pretty simple and you can see that it has seem some serious use. I'm thinking that it is time to make a new one. I think I saw one in a fairly recent issue of shop notes. :yes:









I then checked to make sure that my frame sits properly in my jig.









I clamped my frame in the jig, set my fence so that the blade would cut in the center of the frame (this setting will depend on how thick you made your frame) and set the height of the blade. I think I set it at about 1/2" or so. This measurement isn't critical, you just have to make sure that you blade isn't so high that you cut through the inside corners of the frame. :blink:
Again, I stress not to be a hero. Push sticks/pad and eyeprotection is a must.









With the spline slots cut in all 4 corners, you should have something that looks like this.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then pulled a 1/8" thick piece of maple out of my scrap bin and checked it for fit in the spline slots. Once I was happy with the fit, I marked the splines in the configuration shown in the picture. This configuration isn't critical and I only marked it this way to get the most out of the piece of wood.









I then headed over to the scroll saw and cut the pieces apart. You don't have to use a scroll saw. A band saw, dovetail saw or any other saw will suffice but did you really think that I was going to do a project without incorporating my precious Excalibur? :laughing:









Here you can see the splines. Really nothing special when you just see them cut up like this but they sure pack a visual punch once they are completed.









I then proceeded to spread glue onto each surface that would come in contact with the edges of the spline slot.









Once I got the spline in place, I placed a clamp on the corner and cleaned up all squeeze out with Q-tips and water. Take your time on this and be sure to clean all of the squeeze out. Glueing the splines in place one at a time will make your job a lot easier.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Here we can see all four corners clamped and glued. Once the glue is dry, we can move on.









Heading back to the scroll saw, I then cut off the excess material of the splines. You can sand these off, but I find it easier to cut the excess and then sand. A bandsaw also works well for this.









Once the excess is cut off, a quick sanding brings the splines flush with the rest of the frame.









I then installed a 1/4" roundover bit in my trim router and rounded over the outside edges of the front and the back of the frame. Don't set your router too deep, as doing this can result in the bit cutting into your splines.









I then got out my 1/4 sheet sander and gave the frame a final sanding to 220 grit. I hand sanded around the routed perimeter and interior sections. Don't forget the protective gear guys. Dust in the collectors, not your lungs.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

And here we have the finished frame, complete with maple inlay and splines. 













Now find yourself something pretty to put in the frame and you're done. :laughing:











I hope you guys have enjoyed this tutorial and I hope that it has helped those of you who had questions. If there is anything that you don't understand, let me know and I'll try to explain it a little better for you. Thanks for looking in.



Oh, and by the way. In answer to the question..........I take my own photos. Tripod and a timer.
:thumbsup:


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## gstanfield (Dec 23, 2011)

Love it! Thanks again for doing this, it's educational and entertaining.


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## tackbb (Jan 9, 2012)

This is a great inspiration, looks like I will have to try this out.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Thanks Ken you did a great job explaining the steps. The frame looks very nice. 
Looks like you had a good time doing it.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Dominick said:


> Thanks Ken you did a great job explaining the steps. The frame looks very nice.
> Looks like you had a good time doing it.


 
I always have a good time. It's just what I do. :laughing: Thanks for the kind words guys.


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## haugerm (Nov 19, 2009)

As always, thanks for putting the time and effort into a nice tutorial. It is appreciated.
--Matt


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## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

Thanks Ken. I have always been curious on the process of frames and have thought of trying one here one of these days. Thanks for the tutorial. I am sure it will come in handy for me soon.


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

very well done - nice and clean - just my style - i may have to build one similar to yours


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

Thanks for sharing! I've wanted to build more frames, this tutorial has given me some ideas.

I understand that the frame is assembled so that it is glass/picture/backing, but how do YOU keep the three attached the the frame? That was never covered in the tutorial.


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## cody.sheridan-2008 (May 23, 2010)

very nice as always ken!


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

As always inspiring and educational too. Thanks Ken!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

you can repost the photo of the toque when the counting thread get a little higher


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Great tutorial :thumbsup:. You my think that a picture frame is something quite straight forward, but you make an art of it and it comes out wonderful.
Any special reason for growing that beard? Is it that cold in the shop? :laughing:


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Very good, Ken. I'm always learning something from you.

...GEAUX KNICKS...


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## dmh (Sep 18, 2010)

Excellent as always. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. :thumbsup:


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Great job on the tutorial, Ken.
The photos from different angles around your shop allow me to look in the background and get a good feel for how your shop layout works.
You have some great organization skills.

Now throw another stick on the fire will ya? It feels a little cool in here......


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## ArmedFerret (Aug 24, 2011)

Kenbo said:


>



Why is this not your avatar photo yet? :laughing:

Adding yet another Kenbo thread to the bookmarks. :thumbsup:


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## Tucker43 (Sep 8, 2011)

excellent job kenbo!

made it so even the noob understands the process! :thumbsup:

what is your estimated total time on the frame?


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## ponch37300 (Feb 27, 2008)

Thank you very much for the detailed how to!

I've always wanted to try to make some picture frames but have read the 45s have to be absolute, even a tenth of a degree would throw everything off. I only have a bosch 4100 table saw and the miter gauge that came with it so don't think that would be accurate enough. what miter jig do you have for your saw? Might have to see if I can get one for my table saw.

Out of curiosity, if I was to go to a box store and buy the wood how much would you guess a frame like you made would cost in wood? Just trying to get an idea, I know you probably don't buy from box stores but wondering how expesive of a project this might be?

Thanks again for taking the time to write this all up:thumbsup:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

aaronhl said:


> I understand that the frame is assembled so that it is glass/picture/backing, but how do YOU keep the three attached the the frame? That was never covered in the tutorial.


 
There are 2 methods that I use to hold the picture in the frame. For this particular frame, I will be using brad nails to hold in the frame.
I use a pair of picture frame pliers which you can pick up for about $10 or less to install the brad nails.
They look like this.









I place the glass, then the picture, then the backer board into the frame and lay a 1" brad nail against the lip of the rabbet like this.










I then give the picture frame pliers a squeeze and they set the nail into the frame about 1/2".









After you set the brad into the frame, you end up with something like this. 









Just place several around the photo and the picture will be securely placed in the frame. I usually place 2 brads per side.


Another method that I use is photo turns. When I use photo turns, I make sure that the depth of the rabbet is equal to the glass, the backer board and the picture combined. The backer board must sit flush with the back of the frame when fully assembled. Then the photo turns are installed. They look like this.







Just remember that most of these photo turns are installed with brass screws, so drilling pilot holes and installing a steel screw into the hole before going ahead with the brass screw will save a lot of frustration from twisting the heads off of the brass screws.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

> Any special reason for growing that beard? Is it that cold in the shop? :laughing:


I work outside at my normal job and it can get pretty cold in the winter. I usually grow the beard in the winter and shave it off in the spring.




> Why is this not your avatar photo yet? :laughing:


Done!!!




> what is your estimated total time on the frame?


It's really hard to judge the time on this. I was working on other projects while I was working on the frame so there wasn't really any designated time frame. There was also a lot of set up of my tools as I have to set up each tool before I can use it in my shop. There was also a lot of time spent waiting for glue to dry etc. Time isn't really that important to me when I am in the shop and I am rarely in a hurry, but if I were to put a time of actual work on the frame (cutting, rabbets, dados, 45's, splines, routing, sanding etc) I would say just over an hour, but it is time well spent and the results are well worth it. The actual time to build the frame is much more due to the other factors though.




> what miter jig do you have for your saw?


I have the INCRA 3000SE miter gauge and I absolutely love it.




> Out of curiosity, if I was to go to a box store and buy the wood how much would you guess a frame like you made would cost in wood? Just trying to get an idea, I know you probably don't buy from box stores but wondering how expesive of a project this might be?


I most definitely do not buy my lumber at a big box store and the price of their lumber for a frame would be through the roof. Not even worth the gas it took to get there. I buy rough cut lumber from the mill and dimension it the way that I see fit. I just did a rough calculation of this frame and at 3/4" thick X 3" wide X 12" long, that equals .19 BF. I paid roughly $8 a board foot for the walnut so this frame cost me approximately $1.52, plus tax. ($1.72) So if I factor in glue and the maple splines, this frame cost me about $2.00. If I factor in the plexi, then I am at about $2.50 in total. Try to get a frame this nice from Walmart for that cheap. :thumbsup:



Thanks again for all the kind words guys. Your compliments are very humbling and it is always a good feeling to be complimented by woodworkers of your calibur. Thanks again.


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## desertforest (Aug 6, 2011)

excellent work, as usual. Thanks for posting Kenbo.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Just as I had hoped (and expected), this tutorial is exactly what I need to get going on these myself. I had never thought of going from the backer board...those measurements were always what killed my brain, and your method doesn't even bother with measurements. Brilliant!

Thanks as always. And I'm glad you chose splines, because that is my preferred method too (though I've never done any!).

Excellent work, and I think the new avatar photo is great!


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

beelzerob said:


> Just as I had hoped (and expected), this tutorial is exactly what I need to get going on these myself. I had never thought of going from the backer board...those measurements were always what killed my brain, and your method doesn't even bother with measurements. Brilliant!
> 
> Thanks as always. And I'm glad you chose splines, because that is my preferred method too (though I've never done any!).
> 
> Excellent work, and I think the new avatar photo is great!


 
Now this post is the reason that I do the tutorials. I'm not out to help thousands of people. I'm interested in helping one person. All it takes is for one person to ask me for help and if I can help them, I will. You were the original poster that asked for the tutorial and the fact that you are satisfied that it helped you makes the time and effort more than worth it for me. This forum is a community and I am part of that community. And when the day comes that I am no longer on this earth, I would hope that people will look back and say that I was part of the glue that held the community together and not the solvent that tore it apart. The fact that this tutorial helped more than one is just a bonus to me. As long as there are members of this community that benefit by my tutorials, I will continue to do them.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

You're the man


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## mackem (May 20, 2007)

Excellent tutorial Ken, thank you very much
for taking the time to help folk out. It is
really appreciated by all. :yes::thumbsup::smile:


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

awesome Ken...very timely for me as well. The wife is setting up to sell her photos and guess who will be making the frames??......I haven't been using splines in mine to this point but i will be now......:thumbsup:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks guys. I'm glad that this is helpful to someone. Be sure to post pictures of your frames when you do get around to making some. I'd love to see them.


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## Eric13 (Jan 15, 2012)

Thanks for posting this tutorial Kenbo. That frame really turned out nicely!


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

I build a ton of picture frames, I am interested in your frame clamp. What kind is it, how much and where did you get it?

Sent from this Droid thing on this wood app thing...


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I don't know how I missed this tutorial thread, but it is most excellent. You really do great job a putting these together, and it is very educational, to say the least.

I have a question, though..... What kind of clamp do you use when clamping the actual frame together? Where did you get it from? What are the largest frame dimensions that you could clamp with it?

Thanks again for doing this thread?

Fabian


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

To answer both of you in one fell swoop, I use a Veritas 4-way speed clamp. The basic clamp will clamp a frame that is 23" square. With an optional extention bar kit you can increase it to a 44" square frame, or a 23"X65" rectangle frame. I've had this one for years and I use it for all of my frames and boxes. I love it so much, that I'm planning on getting another one for those times that I have more than one on the go. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for asking about the clamp. Follow the link to get more info on the clamp and where I purchased it from.


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## chsdiyer (Dec 12, 2011)

Thanks for the great tutorial Ken! I'm wanting to make some frames for some poster prints i have. Is there anything different (reinforcing) you need to do for a larger frame or is it all the same. When I say larger, i'm looking at about 22x40 (i think) for the biggest one i have.


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## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

Wow kenbo! You got me thinking I can make one just as gorgeous! Problem though for me... My table saw doesn't have a miter gauge. And I don't have a dado set. It's a pain cutting dados or rabbets without one.  in time I guess, I'm bookmarking your post until then. Great work!


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

> Is there anything different (reinforcing) you need to do for a larger frame or is it all the same.


 
The process is the same. You just want to make sure that you don't put too much pressure on your clamps and bow the longer pieces of the frame. Bowing the frame will change the way the miters sit.



> Wow kenbo! You got me thinking I can make one just as gorgeous! Problem though for me... My table saw doesn't have a miter gauge. And I don't have a dado set. It's a pain cutting dados or rabbets without one.


You CAN do this. You don't need a miter guage. The miters can be cut using a miter box and hand saw, or you could use a miter saw, or you could build a sled for your table saw and build an attachment to cut the 45's. You could even rough cut the miters and then use a shooting board and a plane to cut them down to their correct angle. As far as the dado set, you could make multiple passes with your table saw blade, moving the fence slightly after each cut to get the thickness that you require. Or you could use a router table and a straight bit. There is more than one way to skin a cat....think outside the box.....or in this case, frame.


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## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

Completely forgot about my miter box. As for dados, moving the fence was what I was referring to as a pain. Plus all of my teeth are bevelled so it doesn't leave the bottom flat. My biggest problem is I haven't learned the patience for great setup and building jigs. But I am quickly learning that patience with my current and biggest project yet... A wine buffet/cabinet about 60" long. I do have a lot of scraps though so I will have to try my hand at a frame while pieces are drying. Thanks for the words of wisdom and confidence

Edit: just remembered my new/used bandsaw has a miter gauge


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## Eric13 (Jan 15, 2012)

Mr. Kenbo, this is the first frame I've ever made that had good miters on the first try. All four corners are nice and tight! 
Thanks again for your tutorial.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Glad to hear that the tutorial helped you out. Be sure to post the pictures of your frame in the project showcase section of the forum. I would love to see it. Great job!!!!


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

*Just showing the contrast of the frame*

For those that followed this thread, I just wanted to show you the beautiful contrast that came out when I finally applied the finish to this one. I haven't decided what photo I'm going to put in it, but when I do, I have the frame ready at least. Thanks again for following this tutorial and for those that built their own, way to go!!!
:thumbsup:


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## Warnock (Apr 4, 2011)

Absolutely great Ken. I told you a lot of folks thank you for these picture shows. Picture worth 1000 words blah blah blah. Yep, that is right. We all learn from viewing your methods, may not always follow them exactly, but you present in such a way as to provide instruction with tolerance for personal preference.

Thanks Ken and may the temps stay above zero for you.


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## 6SpeedSD (Jan 21, 2011)

Fantastic write up as usual Ken. From now on, your official job here is to do tutorials! 
I kid of course!

This is why I love this site. People like you who take time out of their day to help the up-and-comers like myself.


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## ol104 (Dec 7, 2012)

Absolutely GREAT tutorial. I read it a few months back and just again a few minutes to freshen up before I head to the basement to make some frames for a co-worker. Everything is all set to start but i have a clamping question...

I typically use a Bessey band clamp. Have you ever used the band clamps for your frames and what is your opinion as it realtes to a frame glue up. Im not averse to getting a clamp similar to yours just curious on your thoughts of the band clamps.

Thanks gain and keep the tutorials coming. They are invaluable for someone just getting into the hobby...err lifestyle.:thumbsup:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

ol104 said:


> Absolutely GREAT tutorial. I read it a few months back and just again a few minutes to freshen up before I head to the basement to make some frames for a co-worker. Everything is all set to start but i have a clamping question...
> 
> I typically use a Bessey band clamp. Have you ever used the band clamps for your frames and what is your opinion as it realtes to a frame glue up. Im not averse to getting a clamp similar to yours just curious on your thoughts of the band clamps.
> 
> Thanks gain and keep the tutorials coming. They are invaluable for someone just getting into the hobby...err lifestyle.:thumbsup:


 
There is nothing wrong at all with using a band clamp. There might just be a little fussing around, if you don't have the clamp inserts to assist in the seating of the corners. With the glue applied, the corners can shift with a band/strap clamp. You will need to keep an eye on this and make sure that they are not misalligned in the clamp. If they are, break the joint apart before the glue has a chance to set and start over. It can be tedious, but it can be done.


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## SeanStuart (Nov 27, 2011)

Thanks for the tutorial. Your attention to the grain direction early on shows up nice in the final picture. Beautiful clean frame. 

I have maybe a silly question: You mention eighth inch splines, do you cut the slot with an eighth inch wide blade? Most blades these days seem to be 3/16. No problem to make 3/16 splines, but I'm just curious if it's a difference that makes no difference? 

Thanks again.


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

One my favorite parts is that I see a Ridgid TS in there with what looks like a stock fence, makes me figure if its good enough from someone making stuff like this then it should be more than good enough for a beginner-intermediate like myself!


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

SeanStuart said:


> Thanks for the tutorial. Your attention to the grain direction early on shows up nice in the final picture. Beautiful clean frame.
> 
> I have maybe a silly question: You mention eighth inch splines, do you cut the slot with an eighth inch wide blade? Most blades these days seem to be 3/16. No problem to make 3/16 splines, but I'm just curious if it's a difference that makes no difference?
> 
> Thanks again.


 
The 1/8" splines is just what I chose to use.  I like that size because they are easy to cut. My thickness planer bottoms out at 1/8" so any rough cut thinner and longer scraps are planed down to 1/8". This way I can use up scraps by cutting them into splines. If you like 1/4", use 1/4". If you like 3/16" use that size. The size doesn't matter as long as you like the way it looks in the frame.




> One my favorite parts is that I see a Ridgid TS in there with what looks like a stock fence, makes me figure if its good enough from someone making stuff like this then it should be more than good enough for a beginner-intermediate like myself!


I've always like the stock fence on this particular Rigid table saw. It's sturdy. I don't trust any fence to set my measurements and even if I am using the gauge, I double chekc my measurement from the fence to the saw blade.

Thanks for the kind words guys. Now quit messin' around on the forum and go make a frame!!!!


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

Kenbo said:


> Now quit messin' around on the forum and go make a frame!!!!


But Kenbo, I have been making frames!!!


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

I don't know why I can't load pictures from the PC?

Sent from my iPhone


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

goXtreme said:


> View attachment 61774
> 
> I don't know why I can't load pictures from the PC?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


 
Now THAT'S what I'm talking about!!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

Thank you sir!!!

I owe you for the tip on the clamps

Sent from my iPhone


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

*The video version*

For those who are interested, I've made a tutorial for this picture frame in a video format on my youtube channel. Parts 1, 2 and 3 have been posted and this Saturday, I will be posting the final video for the tutorial. For those who are interested........here ya go.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

And finally..............


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Kenbo said:


> And finally..............


Thank you sir. I will check it out later on the iPad. I've made a couple following your method, but I have 2 more I'd like to try & make this weekend.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Move over Steve Ramsey! :icon_smile: Awesome kenbo, thanks!


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Thanks Ken,

I have a bunch of things that need framing and want to do it myself.

Your concise tutorial will be my guide.

I haven't watched the frame videos yet but thanks in advance for those.

The time and effort you put into your tutorials and videos is obvious and very much appreciated.


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## ctwiggs1 (Mar 30, 2011)

Kenbo said:


> The 1/8" splines is just what I chose to use. I like that size because they are easy to cut. My thickness planer bottoms out at 1/8" so any rough cut thinner and longer scraps are planed down to 1/8". This way I can use up scraps by cutting them into splines. If you like 1/4", use 1/4". If you like 3/16" use that size. The size doesn't matter as long as you like the way it looks in the frame.
> 
> I've always like the stock fence on this particular Rigid table saw. It's sturdy. I don't trust any fence to set my measurements and even if I am using the gauge, I double chekc my measurement from the fence to the saw blade.
> 
> Thanks for the kind words guys. Now quit messin' around on the forum and go make a frame!!!!


But do you have to measure before and after the blade? And do you have to readjust because your stupid fence keeps moving every time you tighten it down?

Lol I can't wait to upgrade...


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Ummmmmmmmm no.  A moving or unstable fence sounds like a serious hazard to me. You may want to get that fixed up. :laughing:


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Made a dozen or so frames this past week thanks to this thread. Thanks kenbo! These were made from reclaimed floor joists from a house built in 1880.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

Those are great looking frames. I need to make a few more myself...

Mark


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Black540i said:


> Made a dozen or so frames this past week thanks to this thread. Thanks kenbo! These were made from reclaimed floor joists from a house built in 1880.


Those look fantastic. I'm glad that my tutorial could help you out. Thanks for posting your project here. Keep up the awesome work. :thumbsup:


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Kenbo, I ordered my very own version of "Kenbo's favorite Canadian clamps" last week from Lee Valley! I've taken a shot a building one of these frames before, but I won't post the abomination that resulted from that effort. Of course, the week after I threw it in the burn pile you started your video series...

I'm excited to try again, I just need to figure out a better way to get more accurate miters. The last one I used my 12" SCMS, and it didn't give me the accuracy or control I wanted. The Incra is on my wish list, so fingers crossed I get it for Christmas this year!

Thanks again for the great tutorial and videos!


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

BUY THE INCRA!!!
It is by far the best attachment that I have bought

Sent from my iPhone


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

goXtreme said:


> BUY THE INCRA!!!
> It is by far the best attachment that I have bought
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


Agreed. I bought the Incra V27 and just added my own fence. A very economical way to get an extremely accurate miter.


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

Yes, it's very comforting to know when you set the angle and the length, it is perfect, AND repeatable

Sent from my iPhone


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## Treejoey (Mar 1, 2014)

Hey Kenbo, Treejoey here and I am new to this forum,anyway I just watched your tutorial on picture frames and thought it was great. Nice job on the splines. Really adds nice effect. I would like to make that spline jig and was wondering if you had any info on making one ? Thanks again !


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Check out my YouTube channel. (The link is in my signature). There is a video tutorial on making a frame spline jig as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

To save you the trouble, here's the link to the video

Spline Jig


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