# Laminate countertop edge detail help



## Tony Curnyn (Feb 18, 2010)

I am planning to build my own laminate countertops, and would like to use an edge detail that is a little more interesting than just a 90 degree corner. What I would like to do is apply the laminate as I would if I was going to do a 90 degree corner, except add a piece of hardwood at the corner, and then cut a 45 degree bevel, cutting the laminate and the hardwood underneath in one pass, hopefully resulting in a clean 45 degree bevel edge detail. The attached PDF should do a better job of explaining what I want to do. My concern is the appearance of the edge of the cut laminate. Will I end up with a dark line at this laminate edge? Can the laminate edge be sanded after the cut is made and what will that look like? I know Im throwing out a lot of questions, but this is my first attempt at countertops, and I want to jump in with as much information as possible. If anyone has any suggestions on how I can better achieve the detail I want, they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

The only way to avoid the dark line (which is the laminate substrate) is to butt the laminate into the back of the solid wood banding which happens to be something that is done all the time.

Ed


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You're gonna have a problem*

Quote..."to do is apply the laminate as I would if I was going to do a 90 degree corner, except add a piece of hardwood at the corner, and then cut a 45 degree bevel, cutting the laminate and the hardwood underneath in one pass, hopefully resulting in a clean 45 degree bevel edge detail....."
If I understand your idea. Where the 45 runs up on the angle there will be a feather edge with no support behind it to keep it from pulling away and getting snagged. Personally I don't think it's a good idea. You could just band it with the hardwood after the top is trimmed like suggested.
Another idea would be a solid surface like Corian rather than wood. A 1/2" round over bit would make a user friendly edge that won't cut off the circulation on your forearm or other areas. :thumbsup: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you fabricate as you stated to get the look in the picture, the dark edge will show. To get that look, you would have to rabbet both flats right up to the 45 deg angle, the thickness of the laminate.

That way the wood will cover the laminate edge.


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## jraksdhs (Oct 19, 2008)

*inlay*

What your looking for is called an inlay in the countertop world. I just some tops a couple weeks ago this way. Using wilsonarts Deepstar laminates and a solid oak inlay makes for a stunning look. Generally you would stain and clear the oak edge to match the cabinets. When making your templates be sure to deduct for the 3/4" oak inlay on all your overhangs. Build your substrate including your oak, then laminate the edge. Route, belt sand flush, then laminate the top. Before routing your bevel, mask off the top and the edge, then route. It cuts the tape on the right line. Then, sand, stain(if necessary) and clear coat. 

jraks


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## Jordy3738 (Jan 12, 2009)

Laminate should be put on first and then add the already beveled wood edge.


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## bb71 (Jan 23, 2010)

Jordy3738 said:


> Laminate should be put on first and then add the already beveled wood edge.


 
When using this method, I assume you use a router and a bottom cleaning bit of some sort to ensure the oak band is flush to the laminate? Does this make sense? Can you get it perfectly flush?


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## mifirecop (Mar 2, 2010)

*counter Bevel Edge*

I am also attempting a bevel edge for my recently laminated counters but without the inlay. Should this be done with a 45 chamfer bit on the router table, by hand after trim is mounted, or with a table saw? I tried a test piece on the router table and got no where with it. Not sure if I have it set up wrong or what. 

Great site and thanks in advance for the help....


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## Jordy3738 (Jan 12, 2009)

bb71 said:


> When using this method, I assume you use a router and a bottom cleaning bit of some sort to ensure the oak band is flush to the laminate? Does this make sense? Can you get it perfectly flush?


We put a strip of masking tape over the laminate and then glue and screw the wood-edge on flush by holding it in place with bar clamps.

The other option is to use a Lamello machine. This works very good too.


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## ash123 (Mar 14, 2010)

Tony Curnyn said:


> I am planning to build my own laminate countertops, and would like to use an edge detail that is a little more interesting than just a 90 degree corner. What I would like to do is apply the laminate as I would if I was going to do a 90 degree corner, except add a piece of hardwood at the corner, and then cut a 45 degree bevel, cutting the laminate and the hardwood underneath in one pass, hopefully resulting in a clean 45 degree bevel edge detail. The attached PDF should do a better job of explaining what I want to do. My concern is the appearance of the edge of the cut laminate. Will I end up with a dark line at this laminate edge? Can the laminate edge be sanded after the cut is made and what will that look like? I know Im throwing out a lot of questions, but this is my first attempt at countertops, and I want to jump in with as much information as possible. If anyone has any suggestions on how I can better achieve the detail I want, they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


For no black line with a real wood edge, use color core laminate. For no black line with a chamfered laminate edge see link.

http://www.countertop.com/edges/laminateEdges.aspx


Real wood edge can be installed using standard postform grade laminate with no black line using a Betterly router. Search for Art Betterly. Art's dead but his company is still in business.


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