# How to build a display drawer that droops



## Adcox Crafts (Feb 24, 2012)

I'm not sure how to explain this but here goes. I'm building a supply cabinet that will have several long shallow drawers for holding brushes and such. When the drawers are pulled out nearly to their full extension I want the drawer to angle down so everything will be clearly displayed. The slides will be hand built out of wood. How would I angle/curve the slides so that drawer will angle down without falling out. For some reason, perhaps because it is late, I just can't seem to visualize the geometry.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

All drawers hang down when they don't have kickers at the top of the carcace. Add a tall back that requires you to tip it up to remove it. Shorter sides than the hole they go in will make it droop.

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


----------



## Pauley (Jan 21, 2012)

Let me build it.... Everything I build sags, droops, or is crooked.

Author: The Other Casualty Of War


----------



## Adcox Crafts (Feb 24, 2012)

Normally that kind of uncontrolled droop is bad because either the drawer falls out or stresses the wood. The idea for the taller back might work but I'll have to reinforce that joint so the back isn't pulled off. Unless anyone has any other advice I'll just try some experiments.

Thank you for the responses.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Just to clarify a couple of details.....
What is the angle of the "droop" 5°, 10°, 35° ?
Is the drawer to sit level when closed and then droop when opened?
Can you make a large box and have a sloped bottom?


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Al B Thayer said:


> All drawers hang down when they don't have kickers at the top of the carcace. Add a tall back that requires you to tip it up to remove it. Shorter sides than the hole they go in will make it droop.


I don't know what "kickers" are, but for this method to work there would have to be a rail across the opening at the top of the drawer opening that hangs down enough to catch the higher back. Maybe that's what his "kickers" means.

If the drawer sides and back are the same height, a section wide enough to fit inside the drawer can hang down near the front, to catch the back of the drawer as it tips down at the "out" position.










 







.


----------



## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Pauley said:


> Let me build it.... Everything I build sags, droops, or is crooked.




Hey, most of what I build droops too, and my wife says "so do you honey".... still laughing....


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> I don't know what "kickers" are, but for this method to work there would have to be a rail across the opening at the top of the drawer opening that hangs down enough to catch the higher back. Maybe that's what his "kickers" means.
> 
> If the drawer sides and back are the same height, a section wide enough to fit inside the drawer can hang down near the front, to catch the back of the drawer as it tips down at the "out" position.
> 
> ...


A kicker is a single rail or double rail running back to front over the top of the drawer. It keeps the drawer from tipping down. Therefore.......

Al

Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

You could make pens in the side of the drawer to run in a slot, there could be a bearing or runner on the front edge so the drawer could slide. The pens would be just in the bottom back edge of the drawer, when the drawer is open it would pivot on the pens and the front would drop down. It would need a track sorta like a roll top desk sides. It is hard to explain but hopefully you can get the picture.


----------



## Adcox Crafts (Feb 24, 2012)

tcleve4911 - I would like it to decline at about 10 degrees once the drawer is pulled out to full extension. Before that point it should be horizontal for the full length of the draw. The shelves themselves are 3 inches tall and 22 inches deep.

jiju1943 - I'm considering using pins as you suggested. I will have to figure out a way to remove the drawer, probably a gap a few inches back that I can lift the pins out of the tracks.


----------



## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Try a rail like this with pis in the drawer sides. Adjusting the height of the vertical routing will adjust your drop angle


----------



## fixrite (Dec 1, 2010)

if you know the degree of angle you want you could simple cut a slight angle on the sides near the back along with a notch on the bottom edge of the drawer sides ( like a birds mouth). If you made the back tall enough to catch the front face frame then it would not be able to fall out. You would have to do some trial and terror based on how long your drawer is and how far you wanted it to come out before it dropped down. Hope I have explained it well enough for you to understand.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> All drawers hang down when they don't have kickers at the top of the carcace. Add a tall back that requires you to tip it up to remove it. Shorter sides than the hole they go in will make it droop.
> 
> Al
> 
> Friends don't let friends use Craftsman.


Well, this is a design I came up with for an undercabinet tray for the little K-cup coffee deals. I wouldn't think it would take much modification. I've got pics from other angles if you're interested. :smile:


----------



## mackem (May 20, 2007)

Nice work John :thumbsup:, I reckon Dennis has found
the solution to his problem thanks to you. :yes:


----------



## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Well, this is a design I came up with for an undercabinet tray for the little K-cup coffee deals. I wouldn't think it would take much modification. I've got pics from other angles if you're interested. :smile:


I really like your picture - now I have to come up with a project to utilize it in:yes:


----------



## lymangage (Mar 12, 2012)

I would like to make some raised panel drawer fronts. Can I use the same router bits as for the doors or will they be too large?


----------



## Adcox Crafts (Feb 24, 2012)

*Thanks for the help*

I just realized I hadn't posted a thanks. Thanks jschaben. I'm going with your design. I've got everything cut and shaped. Now I'm putting on a finish. Once it is assembled I'll post the finished product and a review of how I did the drawer assuming it works. Fingers crossed.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

DennisCA said:


> I just realized I hadn't posted a thanks. Thanks jschaben. I'm going with your design. I've got everything cut and shaped. Now I'm putting on a finish. Once it is assembled I'll post the finished product and a review of how I did the drawer assuming it works. Fingers crossed.


Hi Dennis - glad you liked the concept. Just a couple of tips. As I had glued in the guide dowels, I screwed the front and back stretchers otherwise there would be no way to dissassemble it should the need ever arise. Must be my paranoia but seems like anytime there are moving parts, at some point in time it will need to be worked on. I also coated the inside of the guide track with a parafin/mineral oil mix before painting to help in the sliding action. :smile:


----------

