# rip fence for 20" table?



## bstarkey (Mar 24, 2015)

Hi, new here. I'd like to find/build/whatever a rip fence for an old 1940's Power Kraft 8" table saw. Problem is, it's only got a 20" table. Does anyone know of a decent fence and rail that would fit on it or point me toward a DIY?

Appreciate it in advance :smile:


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

When all else fails you can always clamp down a 2x4.

George


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Check Ebay*

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...lesaw+fence.TRS0&_nkw=tablesaw+fence&_sacat=0

I would be interested in the Ryobi fences listed here especially., since they are for a shorter saw. This one is 17 1/8" long, but it may be too short. Others will be too long. A longer one could be cut down to fit and then shorten the lock rod. I've cobbled together some fences back when I has a Craftsman with a lousy fence.


If all else fails you can make a simple fence like this:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/shop-made-bought-bandsaw-fence-lets-see-44227/


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't know of a fence system made for a table smaller than 27". If I were trying to make it work I think I would fabricate a 7" extension for the table so you could buy a fence system to use it. Probably the best solution would be to just use that saw with a miter guage and get you another saw that had a fence with it.


----------



## coxhaus (Jul 28, 2012)

I added a Delta T2 fence to my 9 inch Delta table saw with a 22 inch top. The fence is made for a 27 inch top. I bought off eBay. I had to drill one hole and reposition the back foot on the fence to fit the 22 inch top.
Here is my link.
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/50722-my-delta-9-inch-table-saw.html


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

You might be able to adapt a Vega Fence to your saw.
http://vegawoodworking.com/product/table-saw-fence/

I put one on my 1977 10 inch Craftsman table saw and it made the saw act like a new one. The pro 40 was cheaper than the others so that is what I bought. It kinda dwarfed the saw but still worked very well.

EDIT: Note that that table top is only 20 inches deep also.


----------



## bstarkey (Mar 24, 2015)

Thank you GeorgeC, woodnthings, Steve Neul, coxhaus, MT Stringer for your timely and well thought out replies.

I appreciate all your suggestions. I forget to mention that the saw still has it's original fence. It's hard to line up and you have to check it often (Takes all the fun out of cutting.) which is why I'd like to replace it. Better than clamping down a 2x4 I suppose. :laughing: Anyhoo, that being said the Delta T2 and Vega both look like good options. So what if they hang over a little. Might even help stabilize a long cut. Cutting a fence to fit, hanging a table extension and flat out making one are great ideas too. You have all given me much to think about. Cost, effort and feasibility being top of the list. So again, I thank you. I'll consider all of your sage advice before deciding which avenue to pursue. :smile:


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*just so you are aware*

There are 2 types of fences. 
Like the original, one type clamps both to the front and the rear of either the table or the rails. My old Craftsman slid and squared on the front rail and, but clamped to the rear of the table.

The other type clamps and squares only to the front rail, and that what MT Stringer has shown. It easier to use that type than "finagle" the other type which has to be the correct length for it to clamp up.

The Biesemeyer style or Vega clone, uses the rear rail for the sliding pad on the bottom of the fence OR it can also slid on the table surface. MT Stringer's saw has very long rails and no table between them , so it slides on the rear rail.

For a small saw, you may not rails all that long .... I donno? Rails can be made from angle iron/steel, round tubing like old Deltas, or rectangular tubing like Biesemeyers. Clamping mechanisms are either twist types or cam types. With a twists type, your puting a rod inside the fence in tension to apply the clamping pressure, For a cam type you are just squeezing the front shoe against the rail... a big difference. That's why a cam type would be easier to work with ... no rod to shorten, and the rear of the fence just slides along for the "ride" when you slide it.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't believe I would put one of those high dollar fences on that saw. The fence would be worth more than the saw.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Lol ...*

I think all my fences are worth more than the saws they are on.... I donno? :blink:

That why I posted the ebay links, they aren't all that expensive.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I helped our member garryswf build one*

I took some photos of mine, so garrry could weld one up:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/ts-fence-rails-12770/


----------



## coxhaus (Jul 28, 2012)

bstarkey said:


> Thank you GeorgeC, woodnthings, Steve Neul, coxhaus, MT Stringer for your timely and well thought out replies.
> 
> I appreciate all your suggestions. I forget to mention that the saw still has it's original fence. It's hard to line up and you have to check it often (Takes all the fun out of cutting.) which is why I'd like to replace it. Better than clamping down a 2x4 I suppose. :laughing: Anyhoo, that being said the Delta T2 and Vega both look like good options. So what if they hang over a little. Might even help stabilize a long cut. Cutting a fence to fit, hanging a table extension and flat out making one are great ideas too. You have all given me much to think about. Cost, effort and feasibility being top of the list. So again, I thank you. I'll consider all of your sage advice before deciding which avenue to pursue. :smile:


I decided not to shorten my fence as I am adding an out feed table which will allow me to use the additional length.


----------



## bstarkey (Mar 24, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> There are 2 types of fences.
> Like the original, one type clamps both to the front and the rear of either the table or the rails. My old Craftsman slid and squared on the front rail and, but clamped to the rear of the table.
> 
> The other type clamps and squares only to the front rail, and that what MT Stringer has shown. It easier to use that type than "finagle" the other type which has to be the correct length for it to clamp up.


Yes, mine clamps to both rails too. It's a pain and I think what I'm looking for is, like you describe, one that clamps and squares only to the front rail. Not sure exactly how to find that though. All the ones I see use a two rail system. So, does that type have an exact name so I can find it? Thanks :smile:


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> ...and I think what I'm looking for is, like you describe, one that clamps and squares only to the front rail. Not sure exactly how to find that though.


Look at my pics of the Vega fence. It clamps on the front only. The rear just rides on a teflon button on the rear rail. The Utility 26 or the Pro 26 might be the best choice for your saw. The fence dominated my 10 inch Craftsman, but it worked well.

Hope this helps.
Mike

Edit: Even the fence on my Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw only clamps on the front rail.


----------



## bstarkey (Mar 24, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> Look at my pics of the Vega fence. It clamps on the front only. The rear just rides on a teflon button on the rear rail. The Utility 26 or the Pro 26 might be the best choice for your saw...


Yes, I see that. Thanks. :smile: I haven't been able to find a utility 26 or pro 26 but it seem to me I could probably get about any fence really as long as it clamps down on the front rail. Then just add a nylon slider to the back so it will move nice. Is that right?

edit: wait, re-read woodnthings post.

The Biesemeyer style or Vega clone, uses the rear rail for the sliding pad on the bottom of the fence OR it can also slid on the table surface.

So only a Biesemeyer style or Vega clone will work? Like maybe the Delta T2? What about the Shopfox? (I'm just thinking money)


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*it doesn't matter ...*

The fences like Biesemeyer can either ride on a long rail on the rear or on the table surface if it is available. 
See MT Stringers set up .....

 

Some setups don't have all the table surface "filled in" between the front and rear rails, others which are in a large surround won't use the rear rail anyhow. You would have to see the bottom of the fence to determine where a slider pad can be located to suit your set up. I relocated mine to slide on the table and removed the rear rail.
I pealed it off, used two sided tape and that's all it took.


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I am trying to remember...it has been a few years. I think the nylon pad was bolted to the underside of the Vega fence. Since my table was only 20 inches deep, I had too relocate the pad. The topside was similar to hard card stock and a screw held it in place. I removed it and that gave me access to the bolt. I drilled a new hole and re positioned the pad and put the covre piece back on...and I was off and running.

Don't hold me to that. It has been at least three years.

I just checked the fence on my Grizzly 1023. It is a Shop Fox model. It has an angle iron bracket that slides along a rectangular tube and the handle operates a cam clamp to secure the fence in place. The rear just goes along for the ride.


----------



## bstarkey (Mar 24, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> I am trying to remember...it has been a few years. I think the nylon pad was bolted to the underside of the Vega fence. Since my table was only 20 inches deep, I had too relocate the pad. The topside was similar to hard card stock and a screw held it in place. I removed it and that gave me access to the bolt. I drilled a new hole and re positioned the pad and put the cover piece back on...and I was off and running.
> 
> Don't hold me to that. It has been at least three years.
> 
> I just checked the fence on my Grizzly 1023. It is a Shop Fox model. It has an angle iron bracket that slides along a rectangular tube and the handle operates a cam clamp to secure the fence in place. The rear just goes along for the ride.


Thanks for you reply. Hey, how does that shopfox work for you? I've seen them advertised but never ran into anyone that's used one. Just wanting to know if I should steer clear of 'em. :smile:


----------



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

bstarkey said:


> Thanks for you reply. Hey, how does that shopfox work for you? I've seen them advertised but never ran into anyone that's used one. Just wanting to know if I should steer clear of 'em. :smile:


I bought the saw in Dec 2012. I haven't had any trouble from the fence or saw.

Don't let the pics confuse you. I moved the fence 10 inches to the right to give me 37 inches of rip capacity. I had to drill a couple of holes and I modified the rear rail by adding some length to it with a piece of hardwood. Then I filled in the space and drilled some dog holes in it...just because. :yes:


----------



## bstarkey (Mar 24, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> I bought the saw in Dec 2012. I haven't had any trouble from the fence or saw.
> 
> Don't let the pics confuse you. I moved the fence 10 inches to the right to give me 37 inches of rip capacity. I had to drill a couple of holes and I modified the rear rail by adding some length to it with a piece of hardwood. Then I filled in the space and drilled some dog holes in it...just because. :yes:


Yeah I saw it was doubled up with a router. Hey, you got it on there and it works! Very nice. Being a less expensive fence I was just wondering if it stayed square, moved Ok, anything you didn't like, those kind of things.

Thanks :smile:


----------

