# poker table build discussion



## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

I'm working on getting my wood shop tooled up and have decided on an octagon poker table for my next project. I'm not completely new when it comes to woodworking but this will be the largest project I've tackled so I figured I would jump in the discussions here with both feet to pick you guys and gals brains for knowledge.

I'm trying to decide what type of wood I want to use for the wood ring around the top. I want a dark finish on it...am I better off using pine with a dark stain or using a dark wood like walnut? This would be my first time working with anything besides pine but I really think I would rather use a dark wood for the look and beauty. Cloth will be a burgandy color....what are yalls thoughts and suggestions so far? 

There will be many more questions I'm sure but I'm limited to a phone at the moment so my posts will probably be short and random for a while...lol. thanks in advance for the help, suggestions, and understanding! I will also add a picture or 2 when I get better signal.


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## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

Here is a picture of what I'm basing my build off of...


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## Itchytoe (Dec 17, 2011)

Pine stained dark won't look like walnut. If you want walnut, go with walnut. A naturally dark wood will look better than a light wood stained an unnatural dark color.


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## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

Any other suggestions for a dark wood to look at? 

With this being my first attempt at anything this large I'm kinda leaning towards pine just for the cost factor if I do screw it up...lol. 

Looks like I'm just gonna have to build 2, huh? Pine to practice on and then the one to go in my game room!


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

The dark woods are more expensive than pine.

If walnut costs too much then wenge is x times the cost, but very dark - black, the ultimate dark.

+1 with Itchytoe I prefer to use the wood's natural colour. I avoid staining if possible.

If you do want to stain, I would use ash instead of pine. You can get the walnut colour, but will not get the grain. If you do use pine, look carefully to ensure the boards do not have pitch pockets. A number of threads on the Woodfinishing forum where people have run into the issues with stain being uneven due to pitch pockets, or the resin coming out over time.

Sometimes the blemish seems small, but only when you cut in do you find the pitch pocket.

Poplar does not have this problem but the colour variations can cause challenges in staining due to the resulting inconsistent colour.

Cherry is more expensive than pine, not as dark, but will oxidize over time and get deeper rich orange brown tones.


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## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

Good info, thanks for the food for thought!


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Cherry would be a good option and go nicely with the burgundy. You could use walnut and maple for accents. Be sure to read John's http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/poker-table-build-39343/ thread.


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## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

I saw his build and it turned out very nice but his cherry did not turn out dark enough for what I'm wanting. I'm new to finishing wood but the entertainment center in the room the table is going is a very dark wood. I would like to get them as close as possible I believe.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

If you will be colouring the wood, you should read Rick Mosher's excellant thread on dye vs pigment (aka stain).

You will find stain's at the local big box stores.

Dye's will be found on-line at the wood related stores like Crafts Supply, Packard Woodworking. If you have a local Woodcraft or Rockler, they also have stains as well as dyes.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/difference-between-dye-pigment-42519/


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## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

Interesting read, thank you.


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## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

Looks like my first headache is going to be finding wood....I'm needing 1x8's for the octagon ring and the only thing my local lumber supply carries is spruce. That just won't work at all! 

Is anyone close to Memphis, TN that could suggest a place?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I think you could glue up a 1x8 from thin strips for the outside and then whatever size remains for the middle.

You could make this a design aspect by having the outer strips in e.g., walnut and the middle in something else, dyed a different colour.

A glue up would mean fewer rectangular holes to cut.


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## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

That's a cool idea and would look great when finished but the rectangle holes are the least of my concern. I plan on building a jig and using a router to get them all uniform.

I really appreciate everyone's info! I'm an active member on a few of road forums so I know it can get old when a newbie pops up asking too many stupid questions! Lol

I've always worked out of my garage but have also always had to keep it a garage for 2 cars so everything stays packed away until I need it. We just moved into a new house and next week I'm getting a 10x14 shop with a loft moved into the back yard so I'm finally going to have a "me" space. With my work schedule and getting my shop set up it might be a couple months before I get started on this table but you can never start learning and planning too soon, right? 

Thanks again for all the help!


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Personally I'd go with the glue up of some dark wood with an accent strip in the middle, think something like a pass line on a craps table... maybe put some dark card suit emblems along the accent strip one at every seat position. You'd have 2 of each, which you could do in different colors with dye or with different wood species. I personally prefer a solid rail rather than the ones with "pockets" for chips, and I think it would look better if you went with the glue up suggestion, but we each have our own ideas about what we want. Cup holders I might do as a "pull out" that hides under the rail, too, rather than embedded in the rail. That way all the beautiful work stays beautiful and there's no likelihood of drink rings ruining whatever finish you put on this thing.

Don't use any sort of soft wood for this, especially pine. You will be disappointed with the final results and the "feel" of the table, I think. The softest I would go would be something like poplar, which you should be able to get in 1x8 at your local big box store, if you absolutely can't find naturally dark wood. Also, poplar usually stains relatively well, in my experience and it's easy to work with and relatively inexpensive (at least where I live). 

I would prefer to go with wenge, walnut, or something like cocobolo or padauk that will darken with age. (Walnut is far and away the cheapest of those options.) Whatever wood you go with, make sure you know what your finish will do to the natural darkening process of the wood. Some woods darken with exposure to UV, others with exposure to air. Finishes can disrupt either, depending upon the type of finish.

As for building two, just take your time and be careful as you do each step. You'll also find that even when you make mistakes, you can usually use them to your advantage with just a little creative thought. Short cuts become accents at corner joints, etc etc. One final thing I'd say is you really only need "pretty" wood for the rails. The base and the table-top itself can be built with cheap(er) plywood and then stained/dyed to match or contrast the rails and will save you a significant amount of money and time in your build.


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## chrisja77 (Oct 4, 2012)

Great post, thanks!


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