# Drying a crosscut slab



## FrankP20 (Dec 11, 2009)

I've just had a Modesto Ash removed because of invasive roots. It has been a great shade tree, and we already miss it. I saved a 4" thick crosscut disc from the lower trunk, about 24" diameter. What's the best way to dry this slab to minimize checks, cracks and warp? Many thanks, Frank in SoCal.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

cover both ends in anchorseal and keep it out of the sun.


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## FrankP20 (Dec 11, 2009)

Thanks, Julian. Will it actually dry with both cut edges sealed, leaving only the bark circumference unsealed?


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

It's going to at least slow the drying down, but it won't stop it. You'll probably get some cracks, but that is the nature of cookies(slabs).


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

FrankP20 said:


> . . . leaving only the bark circumference unsealed?


Frank, I haven't dried any Ash cookies before that I can remember, but I'm not sure I'd leave the bark on it. Maybe it's okay once it's sealed and taken out of the high moisture environment, but I can't say. Maybe someone else has more experience with Ash cookies; all I have is with the lumber end of it. Bugs love Ash and so does mildew/fungus/mold etc. 

Not sure what your RH is there, but once you complete the project you don't want to put the table in service outside. Ash isn't a good exterior species. 

An update in the Project Showcase would be welcome when you get it done.


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## FrankP20 (Dec 11, 2009)

Thanks for that good advice! I'll report back as the project goes on.


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## Paul Allison (Jan 1, 2013)

I planted three Pin Oak Trees 30 years ago and two of them died at the same time last year. Someone told me it was due to a blight. This week we felled the two dead trees that were about 30 inches in average diameter. The trunks provided about twelve nice 36 inch long sections. The center of the tree trunk's wood looks just fine. The trunk of the tree still has all its bark on it with no cracks or bugs. The sapwood looks fine and the core is clean and very hard.

*My question is: Will this material make good lumber for me to use in my woodworking shop to make furniture?*

I plan to split the 36" long sections of the trunk in half using an axe, a maul, and hammer and wedges. Then I plan to use a froe to section each half of it, then a broad axe or hatchet to very roughly shape it into planks that I can use. After that I plan to seal the end grain with latex paint, or whatever is best, and set it aside in a controlled environment for three months. I then plan to true it up using a Scrub Plane and a #5 Jack plane to get it shaped as a useable board and put it away for three more months. Then I will take each piece of approximately 5/4 x 10 x 36 and finish truing it up using a #6 Fore plane and #7 or #8 Jointer plane followed by a #4 Smoothing plane.

*Will this material from the dead tree hold up over time as I work with it or does the fact that it was standing dead for one year make a difference in the quality of the finished product?*


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## Tom the Sawyer (Sep 4, 2012)

Paul,

Unless the path to your boards is a feature of your final plans (that you want to do everything by hand), consider finding someone with a bandsaw mill who could saw those pieces into the desired thicknesses. With all that splitting and hand planing you'll end up with less wood than if someone just milled it to your specifications. 

I mill 3' logs, and some shorter, frequently. Its not the ideal but it can be done and if one turns you down, call another one. If you are going to end seal the sections, do it before you start. The sooner after cutting the better and it is much easier to seal one large end rather than individual boards. 

Tom


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