# Going all-in on a Dovetail Saw



## dejones (Oct 15, 2010)

Hi,

After trying to use cheap saws to cut dovetails (with results so depressing that each time I stop trying for a month), I have decided to buy a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw (though I would welcome comments of folks who swear by their own brand). So now my choices are down to three: a .026 kerf blade; a .026 kerf - Progressive-Pitch blade, or a .021 kerf blade. I have swallowed the fact that I need to spend $100 to $150, so the varying price of these is not a concern.

Are any better for novices (but not so good for when I improve) or at this level are the differences too subtle for a hobbyist to notice?

Thanks


----------



## MarcR (Nov 28, 2010)

I own a LN .026 kerf dovetail saw and love it. I was able to demo the progressive pitch saw and would recommend it as it will be easier to start the cut. As for a going to the .21 kerf doing a whole lot. I learned how to cut dovetails with a Veritas dovetail saw and still use it from time to time. If costs is an issue it can be had for about half the price of the LN. Both are excellent. Good Luck


----------



## glh17 (Jul 7, 2010)

I don't think I can be very helpful because I don't have a lot to compare. I've had a LN .026 kerf for several years and am very happy with it. Prior to that I had a Duzuki "Z," which worked well but the .012 kerf was so small I couldn't use my fret saw to cut out waste very easily. I began with a cheap Zona dovetail saw that works well for thin stock. The saw is just not big enough for stock thicker than 1/2 inches. I don't think you can go wrong with the LN. I don't know which thickness and tooth configuration would be best. 

As an alternative you might consider is the Lee-Valley dovetail saw. I've never used it but I do have the LV Veritas carcass saws (rip and crosscut). These are great saws. I've heard good things about the dovetail saw but never used it. Maybe someone else who has will chime in.
Regardless, I think you'd be happy with LN saw.


----------



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

You sure it's the saw? What kind of problems are you having?


----------



## dejones (Oct 15, 2010)

Not sure it is all the saw's fault. The sides of the cuts are very rough and the edges are not at all smooth. The kerf is very thick. I don't think it was ever designed for this purpose.
Once I get a saw designed for the job, I will know absolutely where the imperfections are coming from...


----------



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

dejones said:


> Not sure it is all the saw's fault. The sides of the cuts are very rough and the edges are not at all smooth. The kerf is very thick. I don't think it was ever designed for this purpose.
> Once I get a saw designed for the job, I will know absolutely where the imperfections are coming from...


I gotch'a, if the kerf if too thick that will hamper your results. Have you tried putting blue masking tape over the wood? Allows for better line marks and will lessen the tear-out a bit...


----------



## midcent' dave (Dec 20, 2010)

Just buy yourself a nice late 1800s- early 1900s Disston or Sheffield made saw, and restore it. 

While I'll probably buy a LN eventually just to have one, having these pieces of history in your hands and cutting like butter just feels good.


----------



## glh17 (Jul 7, 2010)

dejones said:


> Not sure it is all the saw's fault. The sides of the cuts are very rough and the edges are not at all smooth. The kerf is very thick. I don't think it was ever designed for this purpose.
> Once I get a saw designed for the job, I will know absolutely where the imperfections are coming from...


That's the advantage of using a good saw initially. You know that any errors are most likely to be user. I also layout dovetails with a striking knife instead of pencil/pen, although I sometimes use a .5 mm lead mechanical pencil or a knife-shaped sharpened regular pencil to fill in the cut lines. My eyes aren't what they used to be. By sawing on the waste side of the knife cuts and letting the thin blade fall in the cut line, my saw tracks a little better. There are several good knifes available but I like this one best. 
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=60044&cat=1,42936


----------



## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

A friend gave me this saw an guide. 

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=41718&cat=1,42884

Really helped me get started. I still use the saw.


----------



## Jackfre (Dec 23, 2009)

*I have the .026 LN*

and it is fine in all respects. One consideration on the progressive that gives me pause. I've always sent my saws out for sharpening, but am trying with some of my "not so good" saws to get my hand at sharpening my hand saws. So far, I've done some reasonable work and more not so reasonable, but I'm improving. When thinking about sharpening the LN I think I would have a hard time dealing with the progressive pitch and the straight is so nice I think I'll stick with it.


----------



## mrbentontoyou (Aug 3, 2010)

of the LN saws i prefer the thin kerf saw, but i also like the gramercy dovetail saw, a lot. can't go wrong either way.

i heard LN has a few more 9" thin kerf saws to sell before they introduce their 10" model. that may be the hot ticket.


----------



## Radco (Mar 7, 2010)

*Thanks*



Brink said:


> A friend gave me this saw an guide.
> 
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=41718&cat=1,42884
> 
> Really helped me get started. I still use the saw.


Great link thanks


----------



## Radco (Mar 7, 2010)

*Thanks*



dejones said:


> Hi,
> 
> After trying to use cheap saws to cut dovetails (with results so depressing that each time I stop trying for a month), I have decided to buy a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw (though I would welcome comments of folks who swear by their own brand). So now my choices are down to three: a .026 kerf blade; a .026 kerf - Progressive-Pitch blade, or a .021 kerf blade. I have swallowed the fact that I need to spend $100 to $150, so the varying price of these is not a concern.
> 
> ...


Glad you started this thread,, alot of GREAT advice 
Rich


----------



## Chelsea3684 (Feb 18, 2011)

I am a novice as well and I found out that with skill you can make anyuthing work. I have seen guys use an old tool and have beautiful results. Me on the other hand try to buy the best tool that I can, knowing that I am going to take care of it and it will last a life time. My LN saw is over 8 years old and still works and feels great. I was never disapointed with in in makeing any part of a piece of furniture.

Home Décor


----------



## Woodwork Guy (Jul 1, 2011)

I use the LV Veritas 14tpi dovetail saw. Can't beat it for $65. I'll get a L-N or Bad Axe one day, but for now it's good.


----------



## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

+1 on the marking knifes. I also agree on the old disston. I have multiple saws and that is the one I like the most. I do not have one but I am sure the Lee would be great. I have 3 Lee N planes and I love them.


----------

