# Tools for logs on the sawmill



## reprosser (May 19, 2010)

Now that I have wrestled a few logs on the mill, I think it would be a good idea to get a tool or two that will provide some leverage and reduce strain on the body. Logs are HEAVY.:yes:
The wife likes to run the mill, but she can't help much with heavy lifting.

Any suggestions on tools for loading, turning, sliding logs on the mill? Cant hook, come-along, etc? (no hydraulics) Specific brands or types?

What works for y'all?

I guess I should also consider how to build the shed around the mill if other tools are recommended that might require attachment to rafters for lifting and such...

Not planning to become a production mill or anything, but a little inexpensive help here and there can go a long way.


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

One cant hook for sure and two if possible. We keep a big metal spud bar close by for prying logs around and wedging a partially cut board to remove broken blades. Another couple tools would be a axe and a hatchet, a good pair of vice grips (for pulling out nails)


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Leverage is a back saver, a good cant hook/peavey are worth their weight in gold. I made my own out of 1'' sch 80 pipe and some plate I cut for the hook part (I used to run a welding shop). If you are looking for store bought stuff, this is the store http://www.baileysonline.com/. LogRite makes some nice log handling tools.

You mentioned come-along. I also built (when my sawmill was in a shed on a slab, the very beginning days, hobby milling) a trolley of sorts. It spanned the deck and had wheels. I kept it out of the the way, but could roll it over the deck when needed, and up and down the deck. It had a hook where I hung a chainfall. I used it to flip ones I could not do by hand. I also used it to endload the mill. Hooked them up and just pushed them over the deck and dropped them.

Yep logs are heavy...they get heavier the older we get :huh: I use my skidsteer for flipping the biggies. Either with my pallet forks or straps. I work my myself 99% of the time, an extra set of hands would make things much easier. I too run a manual mill, sorta like yours. The times I have had help (goofy neighbor or something) I found 2 guys on a manual mill cutting big logs get 3X as much done. I do the milling, the help does the offloading/stickering.


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## reprosser (May 19, 2010)

I have been looking at cant hooks, and wow  ~ $100 seems like a lot for this type tool. The DIY in me thinks I can make one, but ... I have access to my brothers welding shop, and I can turn a wood handle on my lathe - or use pipe to start. Maybe I should buy one, and use it as a template to make some more... The hook curve and point placement could make a big difference in usability.


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## jwoods (Mar 8, 2010)

A handyman jack, length of chain and a grab hook make turning logs and cants soooo much easier.

After the opening cut on top, I drive a grab hook on one side of the log, into the flat surface, wrap the chain underneath and jack from the other side. 

I figured this one out after 2 of us broke a 6-foot cant hook handle on a big read oak years ago.

I'll try to get a picture sometime.

Joe


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Cant hooks are easy to make - and the Log Rite tools are also worth every penny IMO. So either way you can't go wrong. I bought two Log Rite hooks over 4 years ago and they are indestructible. I have 3 other homemade ones with wooden handles that came with the circle saw I bought over 5 years ago and two of them broke long ago.

Not saying you can't make indestructible DIYs but the log Rites are light as feathers. You'll get my Log Rites when you pry them from my . . . . well you get the picture. 

Jack sounds like he has a good idea on turning them on the mill. Sounds like a modified parbuckle. You'll still need cant hooks though. Don't try to use your tractor to "fine tune" the logs once they are on the mill. I used to have a manual mill and so I know from experience no matter how careful you are, you'll eventually damage your mill to some degree trying it. 

You're gonna find out how many things you need for even hobby milling. One thing that'll get scarce quick is shade. Soon, you'll have to start using weighted tin to cover stickered stack. Start keeping an eye open for used tin from torn town barns etc. Comes in real handy. And when you end up with smallish logs, and parts from logs that have too many defects for lumber, make 4 x 4s or 6 x 6s from them for bolsters. I prefer 6 x 6s but will use anything down to 4 x 4s. I also bought a load of #3 RR ties for dirt cheap a few years ago and cut them in half, and they are very handy for bolsters.


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## dustmaker (Dec 7, 2008)

I have an old hook that you can use for a pattern. It is one that I found in the woods. Think it was left on my property from logging many years ago. Might be willing to let it go as I have 4 other cants that I use with my mill.
Randy


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## reprosser (May 19, 2010)

Even if I could just get a trace on paper - it would help!



dustmaker said:


> I have an old hook that you can use for a pattern. It is one that I found in the woods. Think it was left on my property from logging many years ago. Might be willing to let it go as I have 4 other cants that I use with my mill.
> Randy


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## dustmaker (Dec 7, 2008)

You can use the one I have for a pattern. Give me a call sometime at 892-2065


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## reprosser (May 19, 2010)

I was able to DIY a Cant Hook that seems to work OK.










Used a metal fence post, gate hinge, and cut a piece of scrap steel with cutting torch. A couple of holes and bolts, and Bob's your uncle.

It won't win any beauty contests, but it seems to get the job done. A bit heavy though...

"And when you end up with smallish logs, and parts from logs that have too many defects for lumber, make 4 x 4s or 6 x 6s from them for bolsters. I prefer 6 x 6s but will use anything down to 4 x 4s. I also bought a load of #3 RR ties for dirt cheap a few years ago and cut them in half, and they are very handy for bolsters."

What's a Bolster?


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