# How To Join Pegboard and Drywall



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

My garage extension is progressing well. In a few days I will have the pegboard installed in the new section. 

I have been trying to figure how to have a decent looking joint between the pegboard in the new area and the drywall in the old area.

The only idea I have come up with so far is to take a 1/2" thick, 2" wide strip of wood and mill 1/4" off one side. When laid over the joint the 1/4" thick side would lay over the dry wall and the 1/2" thick side over the pegboard. The drywall is 1/2" thick. I will round over the edges on both sides.

Everything will be painted white.

Anybody got any ideas of an easier or better way to do this?

George


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

your gonna need space behind the pegboard for your peg hangers. i would put your furring strips on the back side and butt the pegboard together over the strip.
or take some 3/4" x 1 1/2 and cut an 1/8 dado a 1/2 from the back and do a complete frame. the center joining pc cut your dado on both sides. to stabilize the center area's a 1/2 spacer and a screw


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

No need for furring strips. This pegboard is being hung directly on the new studs. These studs will interfere some as they are on 12" centers.

I tend to be a pegboard fanatic. Many years ago I purchsed the next door convenience store/gas station to expand my feed & seed business. I lined the whole inside of the old building building with pegboard. I also had a 2,000 addition built on. I also pegboarded the entire inside of the airconditioned part of this new building. I did need furring strips in the old building.

Bought a whole pallet, 50 sheets, of pegboard for that project. However I did not have the problem of butting it to drywall because everything was pegboard.

George

George


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

i wouldnt want my wall to be open like that. i would insulate, rock, then hang the peg board.
to each his own.
good luck


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

There is a specific pce of metal that covers an exposed or cut edge of SR.Formed in a "J",the short leg of which goes twds finish side.They cost a few bucks,but does look professional.

Wood would be cheaper....basically just a vertical threshold really.BW


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Do you want the pegboard and the drywall to be flush with each other? In that case fasten 3/8" stripes (I assume the pegboard is 1/8") on the studs under the pegboard. Then cover the joint with a thin wooden stripe.

If they don't need to be flush just mill out 3/8" from the covering stripe.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

BWSmith said:


> There is a specific pce of metal that covers an exposed or cut edge of SR.Formed in a "J",the short leg of which goes twds finish side.They cost a few bucks,but does look professional.
> 
> Wood would be cheaper....basically just a vertical threshold really.BW


Can you give more specific information? Is there a name for this?

What is "SR?"

George


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Longknife said:


> Do you want the pegboard and the drywall to be flush with each other? In that case fasten 3/8" stripes (I assume the pegboard is 1/8") on the studs under the pegboard. Then cover the joint with a thin wooden stripe.
> 
> If they don't need to be flush just mill out 3/8" from the covering stripe.


I think it would be more work to make a lot of 1/4" (it pegboard is 1/4") furring strips than to make two routed ( or dadoes) strips.

George


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Sheet Rock

Google SR corner beads...then dig a bit.BW


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

1/2" aluminium J channel, will finish the end of the drywall cleanly. :smile:


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

jack warner said:


> i wouldnt want my wall to be open like that. i would insulate, rock, then hang the peg board.
> to each his own.



Same here, but then you're the experience guy down there so I figure I must be missing something.... why doesn't your uninsulated Florida shop suffer from lumber-and-steel-eating humidity swings?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

BWSmith said:


> Sheet Rock
> 
> Google SR corner beads...then dig a bit.BW


That is not what I am looking for. I have used that in other projects.

I want something that will completely cover the joint of the dry wall and pegboard and extend over each side.

George


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I would still consider the J channel. a small bead of caulk where the pegboard meets the channel would make that go away. :smile:

Will you be painting both?


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> That is not what I am looking for. I have used that in other projects.
> 
> I want something that will completely cover the joint of the dry wall and pegboard and extend over each side.
> 
> George


your gonna have to get creative and make a trim pc thats adapts to both.
im thinkin a 2" strip with a half lap over the sheet rock and the other side with a 1/8 in grove to recieve the peg board


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

SteveEl said:


> Same here, but then you're the experience guy down there so I figure I must be missing something.... why doesn't your uninsulated Florida shop suffer from lumber-and-steel-eating humidity swings?


Putting sheet rock on the walls would serve no purpose other than increasing cost and work. 

Remember this is a garage. Garage doors provide no air tight ability. Whatever the ambient humidity is outside it is also going to be that inside the garage.

I use an insulated main garage door and the walls are insulated. However, this is only to help in those times when I am working in the garage during hot weather and have the air conditioner running. Or in cold weather and the heater is running.

Otherwise this is just a garage. It has the same fluctuations in temperature and humidity as the outside.

George


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Am I missing something? Wouldn't this be the easy way to do this?


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

ya like that. my sugestion with the addition of a grove for the pb to be even with the face of the rock


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Then you must have stripes on the other studs to get the pegboard flush with the drywall, and he didn't want to do that?


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

Longknife said:


> Then you must have stripes on the other studs to get the pegboard flush with the drywall, and he didn't want to do that?


not sure if he said that. my bad. would not need to do full strips, just small blocks, or spacers of any kind and a screw, every 10" or so. ( not through a hole ). that way your not killing the use of the holes over the studs.


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

Yep, that would work too.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Longknife said:


> Am I missing something? Wouldn't this be the easy way to do this?
> 
> View attachment 21324


That is the way I said in my opening post that I knew how to do. I was looking for other potential methods. Hopefully someone knew of something I could purchase and not have to make while the garage looks like a cyclone hit it.

I guess I can wait until all is back in order and make strips like that.

George


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

just shove the crap of the table saw. thats all you need.:yes:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

jack warner said:


> just shove the crap of the table saw. thats all you need.:yes:


That would be nice. Right now my garage and everything in it looks a cyclone hit it. I can get to NOTHING.

As soon as I can get rid of the workers and get the use of the new space it will gradually get better. Then I can get to my tools and make the strips.

George


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> Putting sheet rock on the walls would serve no purpose other than increasing cost and work.
> 
> Remember this is a garage. Garage doors provide no air tight ability. Whatever the ambient humidity is outside it is also going to be that inside the garage.
> 
> ...


That's not strictly true. Codes require sheetrock on attached structures because it's a fire retardant material. There are specific versions of sheetrock for fire proofing, but normal sheetrock is code required because it's a retardant.

if you don't want to put it up because you don't like it, don't want to extra work, cost, or whatever that's none of my business. But, there's a reason why it's specified in codes and it has to do with fire protection. Just tossing this out, but your homeowners insurance might balk at paying if a fire in your workshop spreads to your house if they found you did not use sheetrock. But that's none of my concern. 

As for attaching pegboard to sheetrock, not sure there's a good way to do that. pegboard isn't structural, and sheetrock even less so. A furring strip seems the only way to me.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

its called climate seal. goes around the outside of garage door. my double wide lets very very little air flow through.
if your turning it into a work shop its not "just a garage". i probably went a little overboard. i insulated rocked, and installed 1/2" ply on all intirior wall of the garage/shop.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Quote...pegboard isn't structural, and sheetrock even less so.


I have seen many a building go up 3 storys with 5/8" sheetrock for exterior sheating.

It is structural. :smile:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

klr650 said:


> That's not strictly true. Codes require sheetrock on attached structures because it's a fire retardant material. There are specific versions of sheetrock for fire proofing, but normal sheetrock is code required because it's a retardant.
> 
> if you don't want to put it up because you don't like it, don't want to extra work, cost, or whatever that's none of my business. But, there's a reason why it's specified in codes and it has to do with fire protection. Just tossing this out, but your homeowners insurance might balk at paying if a fire in your workshop spreads to your house if they found you did not use sheetrock. But that's none of my concern.
> 
> As for attaching pegboard to sheetrock, not sure there's a good way to do that. pegboard isn't structural, and sheetrock even less so. A furring strip seems the only way to me.


Sheet rock may be code for a garage where you live, but it not here. I am not putting it up because I have no use for it. Sheet rock is good fire protection only if it intervenes between the fire and the structure to be protected. In my case the only thing sheet rock would be protecting would be the plywood that is 2" inside the brick exterior. There are no walls of my house adjoining the added section of the garage. Makes no sense to hang rock and then cover it with pegboard. 

Everything else under the sun is required. You should see the number of threaded rod from the footing all the way through to the top sill.

They even require ground fault outlets in a garage. 

I am not turning a garage into a work shop. The garage IS my workshop. Now I will also have the space needed to place my two cars in the garage. 

What I now(or will) have is essentially a 3 car garage turned on end. With the 12' addition it has an interior space of 22' wide by 34' long.

George


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

ya i dont know any state that allows sheetrock on the exterior.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

jack warner said:


> ya i dont know any state that allows sheetrock on the exterior.


You do now.

Chicago, northeast IL. district council of union carpenters.

Spose we had any codes to follow? :yes:


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