# My new Ripsaw mill is here!



## jeffreythree

Here are some photos of the ripsaw bandmill I just received. I included a photo of the main assembly, the drive side band wheel, the guide plate unmounted, and the guide beam hardware. The hardware is used to position the 2x6 aluminum beam on the log. The plate rides across this beam or the cut surface of the log using the adjustable finger to track the side. Still need to mount the Stihl 036 Pro for the drive unit. Got a date with an oak that blew over at a nearby water plant. The only problems I encountered were they ran out of blades and their order picker forgot a bag of one-of-a-kind nuts for the guide plate. They are shipping me blades as soon as they get them and said "pay us however you want when you get them." and shipped the nuts as soon as I informed them they were missing. Real nice people, maybe too nice.


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## Daren

:clap:. Cool, now get out there and start milling some logs MR.! :laughing: (and don't forget the camera :no


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## TexasTimbers

Hey that thing looks fun! I've never seen close ups of one. 

That is a wierd experience to open a thread and see a sawmill lying by the return air grill in someones house. :laughing:


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## Daren

TexasTimbers said:


> That is a wierd experience to open a thread and see a sawmill lying in someones house. :laughing:


I bet he walks by it and talks sweet to it a couple times tonight (I would :laughing.

How wide of a cut can you make Jeff ?


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## jeffreythree

It can make a 14" wide cut, about a 20" max log. The beams that it came with will cut a ~10' log and it can be extended out as far as you want to push it with extra beam kits since it has adjustable pins to keep sag from happening. The cool thing is that the guide beam works real well guiding chainsaw mills, cant or quarter big stuff with the chainsaw mill and use the ripsaw for boards, and they have a built in adjustment for log taper. I have a used ebay alaskan mill, but no big saw yet. I am gonna wait and see about that. Gonna practice on some small, easy to find stuff first.


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## joasis

Looks interesting...post pics when you attack the first log.


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## jeffreythree

It's alive, and with pics! I mounted the powerhead today, but it sure seems hard to start now that it is on the saw. The Stihl 036 seems to be a decent tradeoff between weight and power. It cut through the straight grain very well but bogged down at the crotches. The band tooth seems a little aggressive in these areas for the power. The band literally pulls the saw through the wood. It also throws it to the right making it hard to keep everything in its place. Gonna have to work on some sawhorses with adjustable wedges. Pic 1 is the plate for thickness adjustment, it cut dead on to the measurements marked, also notice if you adjust one side diferent from the other you can cut siding. Pic 2 is the beam setup on the log. Pic 3 is is the four 4'-4-1/2' boards I cut out of a 9" thick limb from a cedar elm on our neighborhood greenbelt. 3 are 1-3/4" thick and one is 1" thick. The beam brackets evidently require a 1-3/4" board to miss them. The 1" board was to see how it cut without the beam. It was not hard to push through the wood at all, it was harder to keep from moving right and holding that trigger is gonna build up some forearm/hand strength


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## Daren

This is very interesting to me. Your first experience, initial review and follow up modifications to make it work for you. We have a "tool review" section in the general woodworking forum, a thread in the milling section would be a great help to guys/gals thinking about making their own lumber. The high points would be ease of use, quality of lumber milled, cost of unit and the other variables like maintenance. In my case maintenance was a factor, I spent my money (less that $5K total) on a sturdy mill and have put $0 in repairs/modifications in 5 years. Stuff like band sharpening/gas/oil/grease don't count. 
Cut some more lumber Jeff and post pics :thumbsup:.


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## Marauderer

Nice thread. More pictures Jeff, Please.


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## Daren

I would be interested in an update too, like how it is holding up for you, if you have even had time to use it again that is.


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## jeffreythree

Nope, have not used it again yet. My job requires travel, so I am usually out of town during the week. All the close freebie logs I found this week ended up hollow or already cut to firewood length. If only my company would give me a truck instead of a Charger. Then I could collect from all over the place, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Louisiana, middle of knowhere Texas. First upgrade is happening tomorrow. Loctite(the removeable kind) on every screw or bolt. Sparks flew on the very first log, ended up one of the 2 nuts holding the powerhead on. I am kind of waiting to get one my solar kilns built, too. If you notice in the background of my photos there is a lot of wood in the garage. Green and kiln dried in an enclosed garage? I like my wood straight.


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## Marauderer

I have looked into the Ripsaw. They, the company, are about 1.5 hrs from me and I have a Stihl 039 Farm Boss in the barn that would work. I am waiting for J3 to post some more about his Ripsaw and get some hrs on it to see how it holds up. Locktite is good and sometimes it is even a fashion statement.


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## mdlbldrmatt135

Even if you use the red loctite........ (as opposed to the removeable blue one) all it takes is a bit of heat (from a heat gun) to losten the bolts up.........


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## Gypo Logger

Just came across a used ripsaw, but can't seem to find the free download for the manual to see what parts I may be missing.
Thanks for any help.
John


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## jeffreythree

Here is the manual, better get it while the site is still up. I heard the guy who made it passed away last year? Now I here the company who bought it may not have parts anymore, but have not checked myself.

http://www.ripsaw.com/manuals/ripsawmanual.pdf


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## Gypo Logger

jeffreythree said:


> Here is the manual, better get it while the site is still up. I heard the guy who made it passed away last year? Now I here the company who bought it may not have parts anymore, but have not checked myself.
> 
> http://www.ripsaw.com/manuals/ripsawmanual.pdf


 Thanks for the link Jeffery, that helps alot.
I don't understand why they want you to block the oiler on the saw, but then they say oil is required or gear damage will result to the Rip Saw.
John


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## jeffreythree

I did not block it, just turned it down to a minimum flow. My manual said do that, they may have changed it? The oil flow would help move wood chips away from the gear as well I would think. If you had no oil it would need grease, and that grease would load up with sawdust in a hurry. Oh, and make sure you put plenty of your preferred gasket in a tube around the oil passage on assembly or a lot will drip between the mill and the powerhead instead onto the gear.


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## reberly

Have you used it again yet? I thought of buying one years ago but picked up a new norwood 2000 instead.
Rich


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## jeffreythree

It is gone, I sold it. After going through quite a bit of cedar and the inaccessible logs I was originally after the well (ab)used 036 powerhead was getting weak, and I realized a proper bandmill would serve me, my lungs, and my ears better. Probably should have listened to some wiser sawmillers than me that are on here, but I just had to get at some logs that were piled up in a dry creek bed.

On a side note, I finally used some of that wood pictured to make a box for someone that asked for a rustic cedar elm box. There response was "Eww, it has a nasty knot in it and weird colors. Don't you have plainer, even colored wood?"


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## rdomikis

Any chance your still on this forum and have a pdf copy of the RipSaw manual you can share? Thanks,
Rich


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## johnedp34

Had not seen this thread before and got excited when I saw that Daren Nelson had posted....in 2008!.
I will look on utube.
johnep


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## Tony B

Daren was a moderator on here for a long while. He is a great guy. Also, very knowledgeable.


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