# old craftsman jointer problem



## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

I was trying to joint some wide boards to glue up for tabletops and I kept getting uneven cuts. Besides a bit of rocking side to side from having a hard time keeping them square with the back guide I would get a little bowed cut or it would go the other way and get gapping at the ends. I finally gave up and did the job on the table saw and got perfect results. 
Is this machine really only good enough for getting stuff kinda square and not good enough for a glueup? I was thinking I was needing featherboards but couldn't figure out how I'd get away with doing it.
Does a good machine do a flush contact type cut without a lot of aggravation? Or am I asking to much?


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## jacobsk (Jan 19, 2010)

This is my first contributing post in these forums so be nice if I goof up the formatting ect...


As someone who uses a belt driven 50's era Sears jointer I've come to learn a few things about getting the best possible results without much help from the equipment itself... ha!

I assume you're talking about a cup in the wood after jointing a face?

There are only a few things that can cause a jointer to not cut straight, after all it's a machine with straight fence, straight tables, and presumably straight knives. (more than not it's the operator :thumbsup

What type of wood are you encountering the problem with? does the material have a significant cup that you were trying to remove with the machine? if so I'm willing to bet that you might be causing the wood to "flatten" out as you hold it down and run it through the machine, resulting in a bit of "spring back" afterwards.

...er are my assumptions incorrect - then you've got a whole different situation!


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

If it is indeed a jointer...it sounds like it`s not set-up right. When edge jointing...the lumber should be flat and straight. The out-feed table should be the same hight as the knives. Rick


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Here's a set up tip*

This thread will show you how to set the tips of your knives the same height as the outfeed table, more or less......using an aluminum block or flat hardwood block with an index mark or in this case tape on the edges, but not the bottom:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/honing-jointer-blades-how-10066/ 

If you can't joint an edge "straight" without cupping, try just jointing in a foot or so from both ends and not in the middle to "straight out" the board by eye first. Then maintain steady pressure on the outfeed table as you slowly feed the work over the cutters. Sighting the board by eye first allows you to know where to remove stock to straighten the edge.
Don't just run a board over the jointer and expect the machine to cure all the issues. Treat it like a powered hand plane and remove stock where it's necessary. After a little practice this will all seem natural and easy. Don't mean to "preach" here only give advice! :thumbsup:
bill


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I have an old Sears jointer my gpa left me. I understand what you are going through. Here is my advice. 

1. Remove the knives - have them sharpened or buy new ones. They are about 26$.
2. While the blades are removed, clean up all the rust and grime from the table top. Apply some wax or dressing to keep it from rusting. Don't pile it on, just enough to prevent constant rusting. 
3. Align the tables so that they are parallel. This may be easy or tough depending on how bad its out. You'll need a long straight edge. 
4. Now take a good square and make sure your fence is a perfect 90 degrees. 
5. Follow the steps on this forum to reinstall your knives. 
6. Make sure your jointer motor and belt are properly set so that they get the optimum amount of power. 

Then you should be good to go. 

Rigid makes a magnet feather board that works great on jointer tables.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Thanks for all the input. I checked the infeed and outfeed tables and they are dead on according to my Wixey cube. So is the fence. I'll have to install the new blades I got for it, been holding off cuz I've never done that before. Darned if I know how dull blades can make the cut cup but I'll trust the greater experience here and see what I can come up with.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Gary*

Not quite sure how you checked the tables with a Wixey? You need a straight edge, like an aluminum level about 4' long to lay down on the outfeed table lengthwise and then raise the infeed so it just kisses on the right and left sides on the table. What you are looking for is a table than is not in the same plane as the other, IE twisted, or tilted. You should be able to lay a perfectly flat surface on both tables without any "rocking"
Having set the blades at the proper height off the outfeed table and checking the tables for "co-planer" you should be all set.You can hone the blades as suggested in the thread or just put in the new ones. It's a PITA but once you get it down, you'll be fine. :thumbsup: bill


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

Gary Beasley said:


> I was trying to joint some wide boards to glue up for tabletops and I kept getting uneven cuts. Besides a bit of rocking side to side from having a hard time keeping them square with the back guide I would get a little bowed cut or it would go the other way and get gapping at the ends. I finally gave up and did the job on the table saw and got perfect results.
> Is this machine really only good enough for getting stuff kinda square and not good enough for a glueup? I was thinking I was needing featherboards but couldn't figure out how I'd get away with doing it.
> Does a good machine do a flush contact type cut without a lot of aggravation? Or am I asking to much?


I have been around 3 old craftman jointer's and I wouldn't take one home if it was free I didn't find them to be just old work horse and not that good always snip at the end's and wasn't good at making the board's so that they would glue up with out clamping real hard to close the very small opening Got buy tho I bought a ridgid jointer and out of the box It the best one that i have so far no snip and dead on as far as glue up goes no day lite in the boards What is good about those with both bed's that move you don't have to jack around with the out feed When the outfeed bed doesn't nove A real pain oh well my 3 cent's worth inflation


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I work off an approximately 30 year old Craftsman jointer. 

I have absolutely no problems with its use and resulting cut. If the infeed and outfeed tables are parallel and you have the fence adjusted perpendicular you should get a perfect cut every time.

Follow the suggestions above for setup and cleaning and I think you will be very happy with the results.

George


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

I also use an old craftsman jointer and changing/adjusting the blades is my least favorite thing to do. I think it's best to try to avoid the temptation of screwing the blades firmly when you think that they are in position. Rather, tighten the screws very gradually (mine has three screws across each blade), because tightening them too quickly can move it out of position (both at the site that you are screwing and at the other end of the blade). Just make sure that they are screwed tight eventually.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Duh*

posted the same info previously above, sorry :huh: bill
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/honing-jointer-blades-how-10066/


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## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

Gary Beasley said:


> Thanks for all the input. I checked the infeed and outfeed tables and they are dead on according to my Wixey cube. So is the fence. I'll have to install the new blades I got for it, been holding off cuz I've never done that before. Darned if I know how dull blades can make the cut cup but I'll trust the greater experience here and see what I can come up with.


The wixley cube will tell you that both tables are level, the cube cannot do much more than that. However unlikely, the table could have a slight bow, or one table could have a slight twist. The cube may tell you it is level in one direction, but not the other, etc. The wixley cube is not long enough, or sensitive enough to tell you much more. You would probably need a machinists level for better results.

If you really want to know if they tables are parallel. Set both tables to the same height, and compare them using a precision strait edge and feeler gauges. Check length wise and criss-cross. It may take a few tries to get them both to the same height and then make your adjustments. My old Craftsman can be adjusted by the bolts on the bottom.

Starrett sells some nice strait edges, some that will even dub as a ruler. The only thing that I don't like about their strait edges are that they have a +/- tolerance of 0.0002 inch per foot. Most strait edges will have a minus tolerance. Just be careful not to nick the edges or your readings will be way off.

http://www.starrett.com/download/308_p340_342.pdf


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