# formica adhesive



## jaxonquad (Jan 26, 2011)

I'm making a work surface (on the TS) and i want it to be slick... i was originaly thinking some white formica (i believe that is the name) glued to my BBplywood top. 
1) any sugestions on an adhesive for this?

2) or should i use another material for the top (MDF, Chipboard...)

Thanks in advance.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

jaxonquad said:


> I'm making a work surface (on the TS) and i want it to be slick... i was originaly thinking some white formica (i believe that is the name) glued to my BBplywood top.
> 1) any sugestions on an adhesive for this?
> 
> 2) or should i use another material for the top (MDF, Chipboard...)
> ...


I've always used Weldwood Contact cement, made by DAP. Stay away from the water based version. :smile:


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

Dap weldwood (red lable) is fantastic but unforgiving if you don't know what your doing. Once the two pieces make contact that's it your done. 
Hybond (water base) looks milky sort of, works just as good and is more forgiving. 
I can post pics of stuff I've done if you would like so you can see I know what I'm talking about. If not then good luck

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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jaxonquad said:


> I'm making a work surface (on the TS) and i want it to be slick... i was originaly thinking some white formica (i believe that is the name) glued to my BBplywood top.
> 1) any sugestions on an adhesive for this?


Definitely solvent based contact cement.



jaxonquad said:


> 2) or should i use another material for the top (MDF, Chipboard...)
> 
> Thanks in advance.


The impact resistance of HPL (high pressure laminate...AKA Formica), depends on what it's glued to. MDF, industrial particle board, or Melamine are more dense than plywoods, including BB. If all you have is BB plywood, that would work just fine.

FYI...HPL comes in two common thicknesses. For countertops, etc 1/16". For vertical applications, like cabinet sides, doors, etc., 1/32", AKA V32.

As for doing the laminating, I've posted this before:
_
I would recommend cutting the substrate to size first and the laminate separately. But, leave the laminate larger than the plywood...enough to rout off the edge. I leave 1/4" all around, but you might want to leave more. 

You can use a 60T carbide tipped blade to cut both, if you have only one blade. When cutting the laminate on the table saw, place a piece of 1/4" plywood or Masonite under the laminate against the fence. This keeps the laminate from sneaking under the fence or getting hung up on it.

Contact cement both the plywood and laminate, and you could use a 9" paint roller with an adhesive roller cover (sold at HD). When both surfaces are tacky dry...(you have at least 20-30 minutes for a coffee break using solvent based contact cement).

When ready to adhere the sheet, check both surfaces for any debris. Lay dowel rods (1/2" diameter) about 10"-12" apart to keep the sheet from sticking until you get it positioned. When you have equal overhang all around, gently slide the center dowel out, and press down on the sheet. Then from the center out, pull out the dowels and work the sheet down by pressing down. This forces out air pockets. 

When the sheet is completely down, use a block of wood (like a 12" 2x4) on edge using the 90 degree edge with a lot of pressure to press down the laminate. You could also use a block of wood and a hammer and pound it down. A "J" roller is made for rolling down laminate, but I'm trying to keep your expenses minimal. Then use a router with a flush trim bit and rout off the overhang.

*NOTE* - If you are going to laminate the edges, most of the time they get laminated first._












 







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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

jschaben said:


> I've always used Weldwood Contact cement, made by DAP. Stay away from the water based version. :smile:


Yes, the RED label can. The green or water based stuff is about useless. 

I was putting a nice end (veneer) on a cabinet and used the water based stuff. I stepped back to admire the process and the veneer just fall off. You can not imagine how much fun it was to rub all of that glue off the side of the cabinet. And the veneer (1/4" RO plywood) was just thrown away.


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## snipit73 (Mar 29, 2011)

While I agree using the solvent based adhesive seems to hold better on the initial contact I've had good luck using the water based stuff using 2 coats on both the laminate and the substrate. Besides I tried using the solvent based stuff in my heated shop in the middle of the winter:blink: Fumes are pretty strong :laughing:


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## mveach (Jul 3, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> When the sheet is completely down, use a block of wood (like a 12" 2x4) on edge using the 90 degree edge with a lot of pressure to press down the laminate. You could also use a block of wood and a hammer and pound it down. A "J" roller is made for rolling down laminate, but I'm trying to keep your expenses minimal.
> *NOTE* - If you are going to laminate the edges, most of the time they get laminated first.[/I]
> 
> 
> .


It looks darn funny but you can get someone that weighs about a buck fifty and have them set on it then grab their feet and slide them back and forth.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

mveach said:


> It looks darn funny but you can get someone that weighs about a buck fifty and have them set on it then grab their feet and slide them back and forth.


Got any pics of the process? :smile:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mveach said:


> It looks darn funny but you can get someone that weighs about a buck fifty and have them set on it then grab their feet and slide them back and forth.





mdntrdr said:


> Got any pics of the process? :smile:


That process calls for a video.:yes:












 







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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I like the solvent type best also but the water base will hold if it is stirred up good enough and isn't old stock. I was using the solvent base glue several years ago in my shop that was heated with one of the torpedo kerosene heaters, the fumes that burned and were blown back into the shop almost killed us, we had to draw outside air through the heater.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

So guys, if anybody ever bothers to read the directions on the contact cement cans, there are large warnings about making sure ALL flames are extinguished, about how extremely FLAMMABLE the fumes are, and how you MUST have ADEQUATE VENTILATION so you don't get brain damage. If you follow these precautions, you won't have a problem using the solvent based cc. And my experience leads me to join in recommending it over the water based.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

mmwood_1 said:


> So guys, if anybody ever bothers to read the directions on the contact cement cans, there are large warnings about making sure ALL flames are extinguished, about how extremely FLAMMABLE the fumes are, and how you MUST have ADEQUATE VENTILATION so you don't get brain damage. If you follow these precautions, you won't have a problem using the solvent based cc. And my experience leads me to join in recommending it over the water based.



15° outside, only heat in shop kerosine, deadline next day, HPL has to go on, your call.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mmwood_1 said:


> So guys, if anybody ever bothers to read the directions on the contact cement cans, there are large warnings about making sure ALL flames are extinguished, about how extremely FLAMMABLE the fumes are, and how you MUST have ADEQUATE VENTILATION so you don't get brain damage. If you follow these precautions, you won't have a problem using the solvent based cc. And my experience leads me to join in recommending it over the water based.


+1. I had ventilation. Don't know if it was adequate though. LOML always tells me I'm crazy.:yes:

BTW...Avoid direct skin contact, and by all means don't put the cement in your mouth.












 







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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

jiju1943 said:


> 15° outside, only heat in shop kerosine, deadline next day, HPL has to go on, your call.


I'd ask, Was it worth it, given the result?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

mmwood_1 said:


> I'd ask, Was it worth it, given the result?


MM, back then all we had mostly was hospital work, FedX and building for Pizza Hut + others, 99% of our work was with HPL. After we fixed the heater to draw outside air there were no burned fumes. We did the gluing a good ways from the heater as we were aware of the flammable deal. It worked and we finally got mostly out of the HPL work, none of us liked working with it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jiju1943 said:


> MM, back then all we had mostly was hospital work, FedX and building for Pizza Hut + others, 99% of our work was with HPL. After we fixed the heater to draw outside air there were no burned fumes. We did the gluing a good ways from the heater as we were aware of the flammable deal. It worked and we finally got mostly out of the HPL work, none of us liked working with it.


We don't get too many really cold days, but it does get down to the low 30's. Doing mica work in temps like that is useless as the mica will just peel right off, no matter how long it dries. 

I've had to ventilate with heated air in, and using band heaters on 2 gallon pressure pots in order to spray. The area, the glue and the substrate should be above 65 degrees for a few days before and after lamination. 












 







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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> We don't get too many really cold days, but it does get down to the low 30's. Doing mica work in temps like that is useless as the mica will just peel right off, no matter how long it dries.
> 
> I've had to ventilate with heated air in, and using band heaters on 2 gallon pressure pots in order to spray. The area, the glue and the substrate should be above 65 degrees for a few days before and after lamination.
> 
> ...


You are right about that, if substrate, HPL and glue are cold you are just spinning your wheels as you will be redoing that work. I worked for a while in another cabinet shop when work got slow and we did mostly HPL cabinets and tops. There were times the fumes were so strong we staggered out of the shop to get some air. They just would not vent the fumes, that is probably what is wrong with me now, that is probably what is wrong with me now, that is prob...:blink:


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## Corbin3388 (Jan 22, 2011)

jiju1943 said:


> You are right about that, if substrate, HPL and glue are cold you are just spinning your wheels as you will be redoing that work. I worked for a while in another cabinet shop when work got slow and we did mostly HPL cabinets and tops. There were times the fumes were so strong we staggered out of the shop to get some air. They just would not vent the fumes, that is probably what is wrong with me now, that is probably what is wrong with me now, that is prob...:blink:


LOL. That's a good one

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