# Finish for kitchen cabinets?



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

For many years, I have stained my projects and then applied Deft Clear Wood Finish (sprayed).

These days, I have to set up in the yard to do my spraying.
What I like about Deft is it dries fast. I usually set my timer for 45 -60 minutes and spray another light coat.

Fast forward to this coming year. We are planning to replace our kitchen cabinets. Since I am working in a tight place (one car garage), I plan to build face frames, then build the boxes and assemble. I plan to use the prefinished plywood for the boxes and hard maple for the doors, face frames and drawers.

For you kitchen cabinet guys, what do you use for the finish? I don't want to spray with the cabinets installed so I will be doing my spraying outside (weather permitting).

I have never used the polyurethane but when I read the label on the can in the store, it says it is fast drying. Really? How fast is fast?

Your thoughts and advice appreciated.
Thanks
Mike


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I switched from lacquer to waterbase polyurethane when it came out. It dries fast, stays clear, and cleans up with water. In thin spray applications, dries to the touch in about 20 minutes (depending on the ambient conditions). It can be re-coated in an hour or so.








 





 
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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Some disclaimers: I'm not a cabinet guy, just a hobbyist. I also a dyed in the wool oil based finish guy. That said, I'm contemplating building cabinets for our kitchen, and if I do I'll be using a waterborne finish. Even fast drying oil finishes are a little slow.....the ones I would pick (non poly varnish) even more so. The waterbornes still aren't quite as durable as the oil based (according to Flexner) they have come a long way. The convenience they offer outweigh the slight negative. A downside to consider is the temp must be warmer for them to dry, and mostly they are water-clear, so you don't get the warming effect you might from an oil based. Just plan accordingly.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks For the help.

@Cabinetman - I like the drying time you quoted. I usually have pretty good weather to do the finishing outside. Typically, I will spray several coats, then lightly sand the piece with 400-600 grit sandpaper. Then apply one or two more coats. Projects turn out nice, I also have a pop up canopy that I put up to work under. 

@Fred - I am going to use some of the methods described in the videos produced by Kris Reynolds. 



 I have the tools and some of the skill required. 

What brand should I consider? MinWax is readily available at the local big box stores. I also have a Sherwin Williams store nearby.

I will do some test pieces and see how they turn out.

Thanks
Mike


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

MT Stringer said:


> What brand should I consider? MinWax is readily available at the local big box stores. I also have a Sherwin Williams store nearby.
> 
> I will do some test pieces and see how they turn out.
> 
> ...


You can use Parks Pro Finisher waterbase polyurethane. It's sold at HD, and is tough enough for flooring. Much better than MinWax.


















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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> You can use Parks Pro Finisher waterbase polyurethane. It's sold at HD, and is tough enough for flooring. Much better than MinWax.
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Is that what you use?


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I avoid any Minwax products. I'd probably go with Target Coating EM6000, or maybe the General Finishes HP. I've never used it, but have so much good about it I'd like to try it. Or try that stuff C'man suggested, I've not used it either but would bow to his experience with it. Any of the waterbornes can be tinted with Transtint dye f you want to give them some color.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> You can use Parks Pro Finisher waterbase polyurethane. It's sold at HD, and is tough enough for flooring. Much better than MinWax.
> 
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The time is drawing near. I bought some of this stuff and plan to try it out on a few samples.

Mike, can it be sprayed with a HVLP gun?

The wood we are using is knotty alder stained with General Finishes Colonial Maple gel stain and accented with Van **** glaze.

Thanks.
Mike


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

MT Stringer said:


> The time is drawing near. I bought some of this stuff and plan to try it out on a few samples.
> 
> Mike, can it be sprayed with a HVLP gun?
> 
> ...


It can be sprayed with an HVLP gun. I've done it but prefer to use a siphon gun. With HVLP you don't see the output and it's difficult to judge how much material is being sprayed.


















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## cmac2012 (May 12, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> You can use Parks Pro Finisher waterbase polyurethane. It's sold at HD, and is tough enough for flooring. Much better than MinWax.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's good to know. The Minwax is better than nothing for many things but clearly it's not top of the line, and definitely not hard enough for floors. Benjamin Moore has a nice water based poly rated for floors.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

Actually, I did a restaurant bus cabinet 18 years ago which gets a lot of hard use. It had 3 coats of Minwax polyurethane. The only place the finish has any problems is where people have dragged the bus tubs across the shelf edge and it wore through the finish. That's it, after 18 years it still looks good. So I don't know what these guys are talking about with regards to Minwax poly.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Most of the bigger name Kitchen cabinet makers use Conversion Varnish which is an industrial precat lacquer. It can take a lot of abuse. Very easy to apply, you spray it just like any other lacquer, and you can use an HVLP gun with no problems.


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## Eddie Wallace (Jul 7, 2014)

RandyReed said:


> Most of the bigger name Kitchen cabinet makers use Conversion Varnish which is an industrial precat lacquer. It can take a lot of abuse. Very easy to apply, you spray it just like any other lacquer, and you can use an HVLP gun with no problems.


What is conversion varnish? I've never seen any in the stores. How is it different than regular varnish?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RandyReed said:


> Most of the bigger name Kitchen cabinet makers use Conversion Varnish which is an industrial precat lacquer. It can take a lot of abuse. Very easy to apply, you spray it just like any other lacquer, and you can use an HVLP gun with no problems.


There's a reason why it's used primarily by professional finishers. It's difficult to use properly, especially by a DIY'er in his garage, with minimal equipment and experience. There are much easier finishes that can be used.



















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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Eddie Wallace said:


> What is conversion varnish? I've never seen any in the stores. How is it different than regular varnish?


Water White Conversion Varnish is a catalyzed wood finishing system providing water white color and good resistance to yellowing. It is recommended for use over white “pickled” and
light color stains where good resistance to yellowing is required, but is regularing recommened due to its adhesion and wear and tear properties. This is great to use on any kitchen cabinets. I use SW's Conversion Varnish and it works great. Easy to apply. ​

Mix ratio:
1 part Conversion Varnish (V84F83 dull rub is what I use quite often)​3% Catalyst (V66V21 is what is used in the CV in my example)


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> There's a reason why it's used primarily by professional finishers. It's difficult to use properly, especially by a DIY'er in his garage, with minimal equipment and experience. There are much easier finishes that can be used.
> 
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> ...


If he has an HVLP gun, it shouldnt be a problem for him, even in a garage. I use it all the time. Simple to use. Here is what I do:

Finishing System:
1. Sealer—Catalyze and reduce Varnish as a sealer with thinner if you want, OR you can spray full strenght. Spray a full wet coat. Air dry 30 minutes.​​2. Sand with 220-280 grit paper, remove sanding dust.
3. Topcoat— Catalyze with Water White Conversion Varnish as a topcoat. For more depth apply a second coat.
4. Allow overnight dry before packing or stacking. Force drying may be used.​


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RandyReed said:


> If he has an HVLP gun, it shouldnt be a problem for him, even in a garage. I use it all the time.


You use it all the time? What do you do?


















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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I agree with RandyReed. The conversion varnish is very easy to use and extremely durable. I've sprayed with both a HVLP and Airless sprayer.

Only hard part is adding the catalyst and if you purchase a cheap digital kitchen scale even that becomes easy. It allows you to mix whatever amount you need with little to no waste.

His instructions to application technique are spot on.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Big Dave said:


> I agree with RandyReed. The conversion varnish is very easy to use and extremely durable. I've sprayed with both a HVLP and Airless sprayer.
> 
> Only hard part is adding the catalyst and if you purchase a cheap digital kitchen scale even that becomes easy. It allows you to mix whatever amount you need with little to no waste.
> 
> His instructions to application technique are spot on.


I use a 800ml graduate. For example, I would measure out 600ml of CV, then I have a 10ml syringe that I use and I measure out 18ML of catalyst. Stir it for about 1 minute, pour it in my gun and go to town. Sometimes I even add 5% of Butyl Acetate to improve the flow. Like I said, pretty simple to use.

Combine that with an HVLP gravity feed gun and your in you will think you won the lottery. :laughing:


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

RandyReed said:


> I use a 800ml graduate. For example, I would measure out 600ml of CV, then I have a 10ml syringe that I use and I measure out 18ML of catalyst. Stir it for about 1 minute, pour it in my gun and go to town. Sometimes I even add 5% of Butyl Acetate to improve the flow. Like I said, pretty simple to use.
> 
> Combine that with an HVLP gravity feed gun and your in you will think you won the lottery. :laughing:


 I thought about going that route but the kitchen scale seemed to be easier. I use disposable liners for my HVLP so I can just set it on the scale, zero it out, pour in my CV then the amount of catalyst I need.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Big Dave said:


> I thought about going that route but the kitchen scale seemed to be easier. I use disposable liners for my HVLP so I can just set it on the scale, zero it out, pour in my CV then the amount of catalyst I need.


That will do it too. HAHA


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## SENNY (Feb 7, 2014)

I use lenmar CV and have had good luck with it on kitchen cabinets. I use a gravity feed HVLP gun and it works fine. Just remember to spray and cure your material in 65 degree or above area with a CV.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

How does the conversion varnish hold up to water over time? I have been told countless times by finishers that catalyzed lacquer is a great finish and won't water spot if it's done properly. However, I guess none of those guys do it properly because I have seen many a 2-3 year old kitchen with water spots on the cabinets in front of the sink. Hence, I use satin poly. No water spotting, ever.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

mmwood_1 said:


> How does the conversion varnish hold up to water over time? I have been told countless times by finishers that catalyzed lacquer is a great finish and won't water spot if it's done properly. However, I guess none of those guys do it properly because I have seen many a 2-3 year old kitchen with water spots on the cabinets in front of the sink. Hence, I use satin poly. No water spotting, ever.


I don't know how someone could do it wrong unless it's mixed wrong. I've never seen any water problems with CV On kitchen cabinets. CV has great moisture resistant qualities.

Remember there is a difference between "catalyzed lacquer" and conversion varnish.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RandyReed said:


> Remember there is a difference between "catalyzed lacquer" and conversion varnish.


Explain the difference.

















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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The only real problem I see with the DIY using conversion varnish is once catalyzed you have to use it or loose it. Depending on the brand the left overs will go bad from 8 hrs to a month and it's difficult to guess how much to mix. It's the same thing with fully catalyzed lacquer. I think a better alternative for the DIY is a pre-catalyzed lacquer. It normally lasts six months.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

mmwood_1 said:


> How does the conversion varnish hold up to water over time? I have been told countless times by finishers that catalyzed lacquer is a great finish and won't water spot if it's done properly. However, I guess none of those guys do it properly because I have seen many a 2-3 year old kitchen with water spots on the cabinets in front of the sink. Hence, I use satin poly. No water spotting, ever.


Really the lacquer problem with water spotting at the kitchen sink is from nitrocellulose lacquer. It's the kind of lacquer you usually see at the box stores. Catalyzed lacquers are a lot more water resistant. The pre-catalyzed has a hardener in it that is weaker and is mixed at the factory or at the store when you buy it. It normaly has a shelf life of six months. The fully catalyzed lacquer has a stronger catalyst that you mix by the batch because once mixed may only last eight hours. The conversion varnish is very similar to fully catalyzed lacquer but has even a stronger catalyst and more solids to the finish so it builds faster. I've seen conversion varnish on furniture that was so tough paint and varnish remover wouldn't even take the shine off of it.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> Explain the difference.
> 
> 
> 
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CV has a higher solid content of 40 to 60 percent by volume and a dried film density of twice that of catalyzed lacquer, conversion varnish takes fewer coats for a complete build and satisfactory film density. Catalyzed lacquer has about 18% solids depending on the brand you use. It takes 4-5 coats of catalyzed lacquer to equal 2 coats of CV.

Also, CV sands ALOT better.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> The only real problem I see with the DIY using conversion varnish is once catalyzed you have to use it or loose it. Depending on the brand the left overs will go bad from 8 hrs to a month and it's difficult to guess how much to mix. It's the same thing with fully catalyzed lacquer. I think a better alternative for the DIY is a pre-catalyzed lacquer. It normally lasts six months.


CV will go twice as far as any precat. Just today, I sprayed 16 sample kitchen cabinet doors for a customer, 14 inch X 16 inch doors and only used about a 1/2 quart or a little less. They were 8 cherry, 4 oak, and 4 alder doors. Slick as a babies butt.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> CV will go twice as far as any precat. Just today, I sprayed 16 sample kitchen cabinet doors for a customer, 14 inch X 16 inch doors and only used about a 1/2 quart or a little less. They were 8 cherry, 4 oak, and 4 alder doors. Slick as a babies butt.


I agree it's good stuff but the DIY may only finish one little jewelry box or small project. It's kind of awkward to mix a batch of a catalyzed finish for small projects. Also there is more of a health risk spraying these two part finishes. They are doing good to have a sprayer. They sure won't have a spray booth with a proper exhaust fan or an air supplied respirator.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> Really the lacquer problem with water spotting at the kitchen sink is from nitrocellulose lacquer. It's the kind of lacquer you usually see at the box stores. Catalyzed lacquers are a lot more water resistant. The pre-catalyzed has a hardener in it that is weaker and is mixed at the factory or at the store when you buy it. It normaly has a shelf life of six months. The fully catalyzed lacquer has a stronger catalyst that you mix by the batch because once mixed may only last eight hours. The conversion varnish is very similar to fully catalyzed lacquer but has even a stronger catalyst and more solids to the finish so it builds faster. I've seen conversion varnish on furniture that was so tough paint and varnish remover wouldn't even take the shine off of it.


That is true, pre-cat has a shelf life of 6 months or so depending on the manufacturer, but post cat has virtually an unlimited shelf life until catalyzed. The particular one I use has a 24 hour pot life when catalyzed, but, you can add 300% of the uncatalyzed varnish back into your mix and it will last for weeks. When you reuse it, just add the 3% catalyst (in my case the one I use calls for 3% cat) for the 300% varnish you added the day before and your good to go.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> I agree it's good stuff but the DIY may only finish one little jewelry box or small project. It's kind of awkward to mix a batch of a catalyzed finish for small projects.


That's why I mentioned earlier that I use an 800ml graduate and a 10ml syringe. A simple box fan as an exhaust works wonders for the DIYer. I always suggest a respirator when spraying CV in a garage etc, but you should wear one with whatever sealer/topcoat you spray. Nitrocellulose is nasty stuff for the lungs!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've got no complaints using WB poly. It's a finish that works out well with most weather conditions.

















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## SENNY (Feb 7, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> I've got no complaints using WB poly. It's a finish that works out well with most weather conditions.
> 
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Do you use a conventional siphon gun with the WB poly? And do you thin, or spray right out of can? I've been planning on getting a descent WB poly to play around with. There are some applications I deal with where it would be a good product to use.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

"The best all–around finish that looks pretty good and will hold up to harsh abuse is oil based polyurethane if you apply finishes by hand, and catalyzed varnish and lacquer if you spray. Water base versions of these finishes are almost as durable, but lack the depth and warmth of the oil based versions. In a warm, damp environment like a kitchen or bathroom, long oil based poly or varnish is the best choices. Floors are a good choice for oil poly, but the smell and dry time may be an issue, in which case water base poly works best. Most professional floor finishes now use water base poly for these reasons." :thumbsup:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> That's why I mentioned earlier that I use an 800ml graduate and a 10ml syringe. A simple box fan as an exhaust works wonders for the DIYer. I always suggest a respirator when spraying CV in a garage etc, but you should wear one with whatever sealer/topcoat you spray. Nitrocellulose is nasty stuff for the lungs!


A box fan presents a substantial safety issue. The only way I would use a box fan is to blow in clean air from outside. They don't have a explosion proof motor and build up paint on the inside of the motor. All it would take is a small spark with solvent coatings to have a really bad day. I don't even use light switches when there is flamable paint in the air.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I wouldn't use CV in my kitchen due to the formaldehyde off-gassing. It is a very durable finish, has good moisture resistance IF used with a vinyl sealer and can shatter like broken glass if not done properly. (NOT beginner friendly)


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> A box fan presents a substantial safety issue. The only way I would use a box fan is to blow in clean air from outside. They don't have a explosion proof motor and build up paint on the inside of the motor. All it would take is a small spark with solvent coatings to have a really bad day. I don't even use light switches when there is flamable paint in the air.


I should have mentioned that you should place a filter on the back side of the box fan to do it the safe way. For example, a 24 X 24 fits almost perfectly.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rick Mosher said:


> I wouldn't use CV in my kitchen due to the formaldehyde off-gassing. It is a very durable finish, has good moisture resistance IF used with a vinyl sealer and can shatter like broken glass if not done properly. (NOT beginner friendly)


ML Campbell makes EnviroVar which is a Formaldehyde Free Conversion Varnish. There are a few other brands out there as well.

You also dont need to use a sealer under a CV topcoat. CV is a high solids topcoat so you can reduce the CV as I mentioned earlier in the thread and use that as a sealer then use the same CV straight right over that for a good finish AND its very easy to sand......but you dont have to do that. 2 coats of CV is perfectly fine and has alot more build than a catalyzed lacquer topcoat, just for an example.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

All CV is self-sealing, if you read the can they all recommend a vinyl sealer to achieve KCMA specifications for moisture resistance. (They all are prone to shattering as well. :yes


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*box fan motors*



Steve Neul said:


> A box fan presents a substantial safety issue. The only way I would use a box fan is to blow in clean air from outside. They don't have a explosion proof motor and build up paint on the inside of the motor. All it would take is a small spark with solvent coatings to have a really bad day. I don't even use light switches when there is flammable paint in the air.


Obviously a filter on the intake side of the fan would be required to keep paint dust from building up on the motor internals causing it to overheat. The second issue is whether there are any sparks from these motors on startup or in run mode. In my experience there are no sparks to ignite any fumes, so that would not be an issue as far as "explosion proof", BUT there may still be some risks involved.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rick Mosher said:


> All CV is self-sealing, if you read the can they all recommend a vinyl sealer to achieve KCMA specifications for moisture resistance. (They all are prone to shattering as well. :yes


The CV I use (which is in the SW V84F81, 82, 83 series) meets the test requirements of the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA) straight out of the can. It is process efficient, meaning many three coat applications can be done in two coats because of its high solids and high build. No need for a sealer. I always shoot a straight coat, sand with 240, then apply a second coat, done. Ive never seen "shattering" as long as it is applied in the 2.5- 4.0 wet mill thickness range. I will add that if it is mixed wrong or you go beyond the suggested pot life, which mine is 24 hours, the resultant film may have inferior cure and crosslinking and a tendency for long-term cold checking.



Im not here to debate with anyone, just suggesting something that I know will work and is the best thing to use on Kitchen and bathroom cabinets. :smile:


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Randy, I'm not debating either. I don't use it and I have seen it shatter. I am sure you put out a fine product and am not inferring that you don't. I just don't recommend using CV to a beginner or for that matter most shops. 

Why do you think there is a dry film limit on the thickness? If I were finishing kitchens I think I would want to know the finish I am using has the potential to completely fail 6 months after I have finished it. 

Not only will it shatter because you put it on too heavy, it will shatter if the temperature dips below 60 degrees F for 48 hours after spraying. Also it will shatter if you over catalyze. If you don't believe me just do a search on one of the professional finish sites. There are a ton of articles on shattered finishes and what do I do now. Many shops have gone out of business. 

Years ago the shop where I work now got a bad batch of catalyst from the manufacturer and the finish shattered. The manufacturer would only replace the defective finish (even though it was their fault), not the tons of things that were already finished and needed to be stripped. Lawsuits followed. I am only sharing this because I don't want anyone else to have to go through the process. I have inspected jobs from other high end shops in custom homes where the finish shattered and they had to completely strip the finish in the house. Could easily put a small company out of business. 

It is a great finish. I have shot MANY 55 gal drums of it and not had problems. Just be aware of the risks with using it. I love 2K urethane and would never go back to CV but that is just me.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rick Mosher said:


> Randy, I'm not debating either. I don't use it and I have seen it shatter. I am sure you put out a fine product and am not inferring that you don't. I just don't recommend using CV to a beginner or for that matter most shops.
> 
> Why do you think there is a dry film limit on the thickness? If I were finishing kitchens I think I would want to know the finish I am using has the potential to completely fail 6 months after I have finished it.
> 
> ...


There is a wet mill thickness recommendation for all products if you look at their data sheet. You put too much on, say with nitrocellulose for example, you will not only get runs and sags, but also inconsistant gloss issues, adheshion issues, and more than likely end up with cracks. The same goes if you put too little on, there are many issues that will happen with that as well. Thats why there is a range on all product.

Now I dont think I understand what you mean by "shatter". If you use too much catalyst, the first thing you will notice is fisheyes. The finish will be dry on top but "cheesy" underneath and you will get bad adhesion. It will cold check after 2 weeks. This is the only thing I have seen it do when I worked in a lab for a certain company. Most of the time when we recieved complaints we would go back and retest the batch from both the returned material and a standard retain from when the batch was filled. Most of the time it ended up being customer errors.....and this was not only happening on conversion varnishes. Its always good to pull a data sheet on what you are using, even experienced finishers should do this for first time products use.

I couldnt tell you how many UV coating complaints Ive seen over the years. Some was the material and some was customer or machine error. It happens in all products from time to time.

Im just gonna end this topic for me on this note, If conversion varnish was bad, it wouldnt be the most recommended topcoat for kitchens. Most all finishes you see in the box stores is conversion varnish. if you research what the best topcoat to use on kitchen and bathroom cabinets, it will be conversion varnish. 

No harm no foul.  There are other topcoats in this thread that will work too.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> You can use Parks Pro Finisher waterbase polyurethane. It's sold at HD, and is tough enough for flooring. Much better than MinWax.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I tried your suggestion (Parks pro finish). So far it looks great. I sprayed the face frames with a couple of coats. After a little light sanding, my wife applied a glaze using the Van **** glaze. Tomorrow I hope to finish them off.

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I may have found a new finish to use.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

RandyReed said:


> I should have mentioned that you should place a filter on the back side of the box fan to do it the safe way. For example, a 24 X 24 fits almost perfectly.


Any electric motor has the potential of creating a spark. This is why spray booth fans are made with explosion proof motors. Putting a furnace filter over a box fan will reduce the paint getting in the fan but it won't eliminate it. Over time the box fan motor will build up with paint inside anyway, even using a spray booth filter. If sufficiant flammable vapors are pulled through a box fan it will ignite it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

MT Stringer said:


> I tried your suggestion (Parks pro finish). So far it looks great. I sprayed the face frames with a couple of coats. After a little light sanding, my wife applied a glaze using the Van **** glaze. Tomorrow I hope to finish them off.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. I think I may have found a new finish to use.


I'm glad you liked it. The more you use it, the more you will appreciate it.



















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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RandyReed said:


> I should have mentioned that you should place a filter on the back side of the box fan to do it the safe way. For example, a 24 X 24 fits almost perfectly.


You're suggestion of using a filter sounds easy and simple enough. It may not pass code.

















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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> You're suggestion of using a filter sounds easy and simple enough. It may not pass code.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was suggesting that for the DIYer on small projects, not for every day use......although I have seen alot of everyday finishers do that and change the filter daily or when needed.

Here is an article on a simple make shift cardboard spray booth using a regualr box fan, Its also a good read for the DIYer:

http://www.google.com/url?url=http:...gQFjAF&usg=AFQjCNGJgpE-UT8B8tyIihpD0TGMdkrOaA


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