# Recommended Coping Recs Saw for beginner? vs Jeweler's Saw?



## TimeTurnsElastic (May 4, 2015)

Hey Friends:

Disclaimer: I am completely lost when it comes to hand tools but would like to get started on a couple very basic projects entirely by hand. 

I searched to forum and couldn't find much info relevant to my questions. I wish to cut some clean, simple curves in primarily 1x1 and 1x2 softwoods, and perhaps the occasional dovetail. Can anyone recommend a good "starter" coping saw? In an ideal world I'd go out and get me a Knew Concepts. But money is tight right now and I'm trying to find a serviceable frame/blade set up for about $20 max. On TFWW and I saw this Olson 360-degree coping saw that fits the bill at $ 11.95 (attached pic below). Am I headed in the right direction? Or would I be better advised to buy an even cheaper Stanley Max or Irwin ProTouch, and upgrade my blades (any blade advice appreciated!) FTR, I don't mind cheap plastic handles. Paul Sellers speaks highly of the Zona blades. Will these fit most modern new coping saws?

There are so many options out there and as n00b to hand tools, it can be a little overwhelming: what kind of TPI should I seek out? Standard coping saw, or will a finer fret/jeweler's saw better serve my purposes? Has anyone had any experience good or bad with the Japanese PICUS TopMan Saw (pic attached), which includes 360-degree spiral and diamond cut blades? It's a little beyond my price range but I'm somewhat intrigued because they're supposed to be pretty good little saws, only I haven't been able to find a legit review.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

I have the Olson and it's easily the best coping saw I've ever used. And for under 20 bucks it's a no-brainer.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I don't know if the coping saws have changed a lot in the last few years but I always stretched my saw when I first got it. I would take the blade out and bend the saw to be just a little bigger than original. The blade was just not tight enough for me, I hate a saw where the blade flexes.

Another thing I did was put the blade in the saw backwards so it would cut on the push instead of pull, that way the face was never splintered.


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