# R4512 fence/wing upgrades



## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Just thought I'd post some pics now that i have some progress. shown is the delta T2 rip fence, as well as the replacement wings i made out of 1x2 poplar, MDF and Formica. Still need to remove the square tubing part of the front rail so that i can bolt the left wing to the rail. the stock wings were 10" wide, the new ones 12" on the right and 24" on the left.

Also plan to make a fold down out feed table, and possibly a storage cart under the left wing for blades and such.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That's a real nice setup with the new fence and wings you've added. It also looks like you've put a Ridgid Titanium R1050C blade on it? (if so, nice choice for that saw :thumbsup


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Scott damn good eye! Yes it is, sadly i think they are discontinuing that line. i was able to grab 3 for 27 ea. but Ive been noticing at other HD's in the area the blades are disappearing without even empty spaces left on the display. The big question, what the heck am i going to switch too when i cant sharpen what i have anymore? lol. Ive taken them down to a local outfit that sharpens recently, and for 15 dollars they come back even better than they were new. IMO these are a bit better than the 10x50 Freud's.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

troyd1976 said:


> ...IMO these are a bit better than the 10x50 Freud's.


Those _are_ basically the 10x50 Freud's. :yes: They're essentially the same blade as the Diablo D1050 and the Industrial LU83R010 (which has more carbide) ...could be some slight differences in the anti-vibration patterns, but at $27 each vs $40/$50, I'd like them better too! :laughing: You should have plenty of time with 3 of those, and there are always plenty of excellent choices when the time does come. :thumbsup:


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

your right on the pleantiful choices. i will have to check into the industrial freuds when the time comes, something reasureing about stout carbide. I've thought alot of investing in forest, but don't know that i trust myself with that expensive of a blade. lol


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Nicely done!

I suggest you pick up a couple Onsrud blades from eBay... Great price for a better blade. Very generous on the carbide too, a deff plus if you have a good sharpening service handy!

I've done a few reviews here on Onsrud and have a few more to do as I get time to test the different ones out...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

OK....making ZCI's for these saws is a royal PITA with these saws. tried 1/2" MDF, too flimsy on the rabetts. Grabbed some scrap laminate flooring, I think its going to be the way to go. I realize that i could buy them for the saw, but @ 25 each i can think of alot better uses of the shop funds, lol. Now i just need to come up with a clever way to rig up something to hook onto the back edge of the opening.


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Thanks for showing this. I am the recent owner of this very saw and so far like it quite well. I am currently using the stock fence and will probably stick with it for a while anyway. Although I've not used them yet, I really like how the fence has T-slots in it, both sides and top. I can see this being a nice feature.

One bitch I've got, and you've solved it with the T2 fence, is I cannot seem to get both the LH and RH rulers to be 100% in agreement. I've moved the front rail both left and right a couple times trying to marry the two, but seems like one is always just a tad off...even after adjusting the pointers as much as possible. I am so far living with the LH side being off as that's the side to see the least use. I've never had a TS with a reliable guide and I really like being to just move the fence to where I want it, lock it down and my cut comes out right where I set it.

Another thing I've noticed, is that I frequently slightly bump the OFF switch during use and it doesn't turn the saw off, but makes it appear that I'm tripping the breaker or something. It took me a few times to figure out what the heck was going on. I have mine just about where yours is and might move it inbd since it's easy to loosen the bolts and slide it where you want it.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Looks really good. Are you planning on doing the router table in one of those wings or will that be separate?


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

chikn, I'd get in touch with Ridgid if i were you on the fence issue, it sounds like your two parts don't want to go together correctly and stay there. I'm sure they'd happily send you a replacement front rail set up. The T2 actually doesn't have an indicator for the left hand scale nor a scale, but than again i can't think of any time I've cut on that side of the blade when ripping.

dbhost, it wouldn't work well at all to have a router on the right wing on my saw, and as far as the left side goes I'd have had to made that wing even wider to accommodate (theres a bump out for the motor bevel swing). I've been debating of doing a fold down out feed table, than a separate router table, or doing a free standing out feed with the router table in one end, and storage under all of it. I've had the same "temporary" router table for 2 years now though so i think its time i build my real one. lol.


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## rone (Jun 27, 2011)

Nice job man. I did a similar modification. I added some cast iron wings and a Vega 50 inch fence that I bought for 50 bucks off craigslist. Works killer but this was not an easy modification. Took a ton of work but man did it pay off. Works very nice. 









The pics are a little noisy.

Ron


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Where did you come up with the wings, and how much mod did it take? i'd like to go cast least on the left side.


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## rone (Jun 27, 2011)

I bought the wings from SawStop. 12 in. 

The holes on the wings don't match up with the ts so I had to drill through the wings. The hardest part was holding them up while trying to get the holes aligned which it took me a few tries. My clamps just werent strong enough to hold these very well. It was worth the learning experience if anything but I'm glad its done lol.


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## FumbleThumb (Apr 21, 2012)

*R4512 table extension specs?*

I've been admiring the photos of the r4512 table extensions that you built, and I'm thinking about copying your design (with permission) to put on the r4512 that I have just assembled.


When you edged the MDF/formica with the the 1 x 2 poplar strips, did you use the full 3/4" thickness of the 1 x 2's? It looks like there is less than 3/4" of poplar thickness showing, but I can't quite tell from the photos.

Many thanks,

Don


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

what i did Don was made tor-sen box's out of the 1x2 poplar, your seeing on the side the 2" (1 1/2") dimension. in order for everything to work right with wing at the same height as the table, i put about 1/4" rabid around the MDF so it sits down into the poplar frame. i had to do this to allow for bolt clearance where it attaches to the cast iron. the pieces of 1x2 under it all that you cannot see i ripped rather than dado them into the MDF. it also seems like if i remember right the 1x2 that attaches to the cast iron i had to trim a bit to clear the motor bump out on the left side. if i had it to do over again i think i'd make support legs for the left hand table and push the fence rails all the way over, as i don't ever use the fence to the left of the blade.
hope this helps some.


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## RJweb (Feb 25, 2011)

Troy,
was it much work putting the delta fence on the saw, i also have a 4512 and have been looking at the deta fence.


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

depends on your definition of much work..lol..it didn't line up quite perfect, so i clamped the T2 rails to get everything where i wanted it than had to drill. I never used the OEM fence, but to me it was worth the upgrade because of the silly split front rail set up Ridgid grew fond of. originally i had gotten the T2 for my R4511 which IMO had a not so great fence, the main issue being the split rail setup. though from what i did notice it looks like the R4512 they improved upon what they give you to align it, the R4511 just had small pastic tabs for it's junction.
i also replaced the T2 measuring tape with starett, but if i recall correctly it was because i was a little more to the left.
I will say that ive had the R4512 nearly a year now and IMO its a far superior machine to the R4511 Ridgid set it to me as a replacement for..smooth, accurate, trouble free.


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## FumbleThumb (Apr 21, 2012)

Troy,

Thank you, this helps a lot. I hadn't thought about building a torsion box but I can see why it would be needed to keep the MDF surface flat. I'll give it a try and see how it turns out. 

Don


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## FumbleThumb (Apr 21, 2012)

Troy: One more question about your table extensions. Did you bevel the outside edges of the MDF/formica? Don


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Don, i sure didn't. i took a file across the cut edges of the Formica just to get any burr's off. i had attempted to match the bevel on the front of the R4512's table, but i beveled the mdf and with the Formica on the bevel its more like a slight round over.


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## FumbleThumb (Apr 21, 2012)

Troy, Thanks. I think that I'll try to but a slight bevel on the MDF just so that there is not a 90 degree angle running into the bevel on the front of the cast iron table. If it ends up looking like a round over, at least I'll know that I'm in good company with your effort. Don


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## castlerock woodguy (Sep 8, 2012)

*Thanks for the pics*

Thanks for the pics of your upgrades. I have a new R4512 (a couple of weeks) and was thinking of upgrading the fence. I am also going to add the additional insert on the right side. I never thought of replacing the right side steel top and making it one piece. What a great idea. I also had to change the blade right away. I put in a FRUED THIN KERF COMBO and it made all the difference in the world. Thanks again for sharing your upgrades.


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

It's a great machine ESP. With that blade upgrade and a better fence though I've heard good things of the stock fence. I recently acquired a uni saw so I sold off the R 4512.


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## davidpai (Dec 10, 2012)

rone398 said:


> I bought the wings from SawStop. 12 in.
> 
> The holes on the wings don't match up with the ts so I had to drill through the wings. The hardest part was holding them up while trying to get the holes aligned which it took me a few tries. My clamps just werent strong enough to hold these very well. It was worth the learning experience if anything but I'm glad its done lol.



Rone398, did you buy the wings directly from SawStop? or did you get them off a classified add like Craigslist as well?

I like the new 4512 but I really, really, really want a full cast iron top or wings. I have been searching for aTS3650 or 3660 for about a year now and I am a day late it seems on everyone of them I try and buy off Craigslist. :furious:


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

David, you left a comment that you wanted more photos of the wings i had on the R4512, sadly i dont have more than those of it. heres a copy of what i did to build them i posted earlier in this thread
what i did was made tor-sen box's out of the 1x2 poplar, your seeing on the side the 2" (1 1/2") dimension. in order for everything to work right with wing at the same height as the table, i put about 1/4" rabid around the MDF so it sits down into the poplar frame. i had to do this to allow for bolt clearance where it attaches to the cast iron. the pieces of 1x2 under it all that you cannot see i ripped rather than dado them into the MDF. it also seems like if i remember right the 1x2 that attaches to the cast iron i had to trim a bit to clear the motor bump out on the left side. if i had it to do over again i think i'd make support legs for the left hand table and push the fence rails all the way over, as i don't ever use the fence to the left of the blade.
hope this helps some. 
Right now i am running a craftsman 113 series TS, but considering getting another R4512. I am in the process right now of finding out more details from someone on another forum, he's found cast iron wings that have the same bevel at the front edge that the R4512 has. @ 50 bucks a wing i think i will if i wind up with another R4512 give those a shot and see if i can figure a way to get them mounted up properly. i'd probably still go with the homemade set up to the right of the blade though.


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## joebob (Dec 4, 2012)

davidpai said:


> Rone398, did you buy the wings directly from SawStop? or did you get them off a classified add like Craigslist as well?
> 
> I like the new 4512 but I really, really, really want a full cast iron top or wings. I have been searching for aTS3650 or 3660 for about a year now and I am a day late it seems on everyone of them I try and buy off Craigslist. :furious:


Don't know how far you're willing to drive, but here's one locally to me for $225. Looks like a pretty good deal. Just a little table rust...

http://okaloosa.craigslist.org/tls/3476214635.html

Wish I'd waited a couple of weeks for this one, but I just bought a Delta w/ 42" Biesemeyer last weekend...


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## castlerock woodguy (Sep 8, 2012)

Troy, can you help me with something. I picked up the 4512 about 4 months ago. I use only the finest Freud blades (ripping, cross cut and combination), but I still cannot get a clean glue ready cut. I upgraded from a inexpensive Porter Cable portable saw and with the Freud blades the cuts were much better than the 4512. I don't know if it's the speed of the blade (5000 rpm - PC, 3450 - Ridgid) or the set up of my saw. I have checked and adjusted everything according to manual and still cannot get a clean cut. I have not did any adjustments on the trunion. Are your cuts clean and did you have to do any trunion adjustments. I am cutting all hardwood; Cherry, Maple and Oak. The cuts in pine are not even perfect. I would appreciate any suggestions you, or anyone else may have. 

Thanks.

Jerry


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

The first question would be what do your cuts look like, is there any burning, etc, and are you using specifically a "glue line" rip? Most manufacture's say that a glue line rip blade is only effective @ 4/4 or less. You should always when setting up a machine, and periodically check to make sure your blade is set square to the miter tracks (trunnion adjustment) and from that point that your fence is square as well. it's preferable to have the rear edge of your fence towed out a hair so that you arent contacting the back edge of the saw blade. 
It's achievable with the R4512 to get a glue ready rip, but i prefer to utilize a jointer.


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## castlerock woodguy (Sep 8, 2012)

*Thanks fro the input.*

Thanks Troy. I will check the trunion set up to make sure the blade is square to the miter slot.


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

troyd1976 said:


> Right now i am running a craftsman 113 series TS, but considering getting another R4512. I am in the process right now of finding out more details from someone on another forum, he's found cast iron wings that have the same bevel at the front edge that the R4512 has. @ 50 bucks a wing i think i will if i wind up with another R4512 give those a shot and see if i can figure a way to get them mounted up properly. i'd probably still go with the homemade set up to the right of the blade though.


Troy - did you ever confirm the cast iron wings (with the bevel) that you mention above? If so, can you pass on the info as I'd like to get 1 or 2 for my 4512and at that price it's a no brainer.


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## nomad26 (Feb 10, 2013)

rbk123 said:


> Troy - did you ever confirm the cast iron wings (with the bevel) that you mention above? If so, can you pass on the info as I'd like to get 1 or 2 for my 4512and at that price it's a no brainer.


I just bought an R4512 too I would love to find a set at that price too. Let us know what you came up with.
Thanks


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