# Hanging doors



## Treeoflifestairs.com (Jan 9, 2012)

Staircases are my specialty, but I've done a fair amount of installing pre-hung doors and when I go to hang my own I have a hard time keeping an 1/8" reveal between the door and the jam. I always end up with the hinge side being tight and the opening side being large.

when I route for the hinges they are flush and the jam is square and plumb. How do you create this reveal since the hinge itself closes completely?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You're probably using a swagged hinge. That's a condition that the leaves close towards the center (or beyond) of the pin. Check *this site* for the types of hinges, and you'll see how different they can be.











 







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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

That is some good information C-Man, I got that one bookmarked.

I will probably catch grief for this but it does work. If you place the end of your nail set that you hit with your hammer inside the open hinge, close to the pin, very gently close the door a little at a time until you feel the resistance of the hinge bending, then release. Check to see if you have enough margin and repeat as necessary. 

You will need to do that on all the hinges because just bending the top hinge open, will open the margin at the top of the door on the striker side. Be sure to check to see that the barrel of the door knob still works good in the striker as bending the hinges at the top or bottom only, will raise the striker side of the door or lower the striker side. BEWARE, over bending the hinge or bending to much can pull the screws loose.

If the margin is too wide on the hinge side you can use an open end wrench, adjustable wrench or channel locks to bend the hinge and close the margin up. Be careful with the channel locks they can scratch the hinge. Place the wrench on the tab of the hinge that is attached to the door and bend back towards the knob side, this will close the hinge up, be careful not to over bend as it will make the door hinge bound. You will need to bend all the tabs connected to the door on that hinge, just bending one tab won't do much.

Bending the hinge tighter on the top hinge will make the knob side raise up so be sure the margin at the top of the door doesn't close so much that the top drags against the top of the jamb. Bending the bottom hinge tighter will make the knob side of the door at the top margin open and bending the hinge will move the barrel of the knob so check the striker to see if the door closes ok. Sorry if this is inappropriate information but it does work when all else fails.


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## DanStan (Feb 5, 2012)

*EzHang for pre hung doors*



Treeoflifestairs.com said:


> Staircases are my specialty, but I've done a fair amount of installing pre-hung doors and when I go to hang my own I have a hard time keeping an 1/8" reveal between the door and the jam. I always end up with the hinge side being tight and the opening side being large.
> 
> when I route for the hinges they are flush and the jam is square and plumb. How do you create this reveal since the hinge itself closes completely?


. 

I am new to wood working and use pre hung doors. I always use a product called EZHANG for installing doors. Never have a problem with hinge binding, and it only takes about 5 minutes per door. I am sure they will work on the doors your pre hanging yourself too.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Passage door butt hinges don't fit tight leaf to leaf, there is a gap built in at the barrel. What are you using for hinges? You shouldn't have to do any hinge bending. Nice stairs.


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## Devildog (Apr 20, 2008)

C-man, that's a very eye-opening site. Never occurred to me.
So how to hang a door with swagged hinges and maintain a reveal? is the only way to not recess them?


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