# Show off the tools you've made!!



## 3fingers

Other post have got me thinking about what tools you have made, whether hand or power. Here are mine... I have made 2 smoothing planes and one holder for a micro plane rasp. 

Show me yours....


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## firemedic

Those look great!


Haven't finished this one yet: low angle cocobolo jointer
View attachment 34370



Mock up for a marking gauge. Used oak and learned a lot for the Cocobolo one I have planed.
View attachment 34371



Built this one a while back, I use the heck out of it and need to build another out of pecan and one from fir for assembly.
View attachment 34372



A spoke shave a started and never finished:









I just got a 5' blade in for a bow saw! I'll be building that as I have time.

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## joesbucketorust

firemedic said:


> I just got a 5' blade in for a bow saw! I'll be building that as I have time.


That will be one seriously long bow saw.


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## firemedic

Pictures got messed up...

rrbrown turned one of the marking knife handles for me. The other carved with a spoke shave.

And does making a skew chisel from a crap marple count? Lol

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## firemedic

joesbucketorust said:


> That will be one seriously long bow saw.


:smile: I know! It wasn't a typo either... Five Footer! :smile:

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Adrenalin

Thor's hammer! 

Dad would love that!


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## lawrence

firemedic said:


> :smile: I know! It wasn't a typo either... Five Footer! :smile:
> 
> ~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


dude what you gonna cut with that?


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## Upstate

lawrence said:


> dude what you gonna cut with that?


Maybe this...


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## firemedic

Upstate said:


> Maybe this...




~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Woodworkingkid

all those hand tools look great. firemedic was the marking gauge you made tough to make because i am thinking about making one i just dont realy know how to.


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## firemedic

Woodworkingkid said:


> all those hand tools look great. firemedic was the marking gauge you made tough to make because i am thinking about making one i just dont realy know how to.


It really wasn't bad. Sourcing (improvising) parts was the only challenge. All of the hardware came from Lowe's hardware section... Even the brass flat bar.

For the thumb knob I epoxied a brass nut into the fence and into a screw.

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## Layne Zuelke

*Engraved Anderson Plane*

While I didn't make this plane, that's obviously Wayne Anderson, I did engrave it for him. Just completed this week. 
layne Zuelke
www.cajunhandplanes.com


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## Larrylii

Woodworkingkid said:


> all those hand tools look great. firemedic was the marking gauge you made tough to make because i am thinking about making one i just dont realy know how to.


Shop notes had an issue on how to make those. When I get home, I'll look for the issue #. Shop notes used an old jig saw blade for the cutter. Just filed and sharpened.


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## firemedic

Man, those are some old mock-up pictures from me! :smile: I've built some much nicer stuff since then.

Here's a sneak peek at something I'm working on right now -


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## timetestedtools

For the mallet swap









toothing plane









Beader









Scrapers









York Pitch smoother









Scraper









Bow saw









Krenov Smoother










Sanding blocks from broken plane parts









Jointer fence


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## Woodwart

Here is a chisel plane I made last year. I am working on a 18" bench plane, and have a couple of scrapers in mind for next year. I have also made a bandsaw table and fences. Drill press table coming, too.

The third picture is an old wooden plane that I reconditioned. It takes shavings I can read through.


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## Brian T.

I have no appetite to learn to be a bladesmith. For wood carvings such as spoons, bowls and kuksa, crooked knives are the only way to go. Mora (Sweden) makes #162, #163 & #164, ideal for this sort of work.
Instead, I rebevelled 2 pairs of Mora #171 Equus farrier's hook knives from 30 degrees to 12 degrees, including the little scorp-like hook at the tip. These are carving sharp.
I carve a lot of western red cedar pieces which I split out from log chunks (plentiful and usually free). Custom froe pounded out for my by a blacksmith. I need a straight tang. I made the bash-worthy mallet from an alder log.
To keep the undulations in the WRC, all I want to do is get the surface smooth enough to lay out a drawing. Started with a Mora #188, double bevel farrier's hook knife. Cut off the hook and down again to 12 degrees. Set this into an 18" willow handle. It was getting grubby-looking so the whip finish (dacron cord & glue) is really cosmetic. Because of the progressive sweep in the blade, you can't use a plane to smooth a surface like this does.
Lee Valley sells Haida-style crooked knife blades from Crescent Knife Works in Vancouver. They are very crudely sharpened. By the time you're ready to mess with these, you know how to make crooked blades "carving sharp" and you know exactly how to shape the handles for the way you like to carve. These are rosewood & mahogany glue-ups, the blades are canted 10 degrees. All double bevels carving sharp as 12 degrees. The whip finishes cover the mounting hardware.


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## Shop Dad

Layne Zuelke said:


> While I didn't make this plane, that's obviously Wayne Anderson, I did engrave it for him. Just completed this week.
> layne Zuelke
> www.cajunhandplanes.com


Beautiful work Layne. I can see having this done to a special plane that has been in the family or a very special gift. Making a mental note. :yes:


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## ACP

I've posted these at various times throughout my time here, but I thought I'd put them here in this thread anyways. All the above pics have given me various ideas so I would hope to contribute too.

My Saw hook and it's extension. I cut the angles for it on my table saw with my Osbourne miter gauge and then glued and tacked them in place around the blade of my crosscut saw from Veritas. That way it's really tight on the blade and allows for very accurate cuts. I also left a trench on the right side for some shooting. I need to make a true dedicated shooting board though. This was made with utility in mind knowing I'd chew it up and make another sooner than later. I would make it shorter next time.


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## ACP

This is my Moxon vise I use for sawing. It's made out of ash. The hardware is from menards. I just drilled out a dowel for the handles. This hardware is, I think some gate hardware of some kind. I can't remember. It is a screw with a post running perpendicular to it. It was like $10 for all the hardware and I had the wood laying around. It grips like a pitbull. It's much easier to saw upright IMHO.


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## ACP

Rear of the Moxon. Holdfasts hold it on the workbench quickly and allow its removal just as quick.


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## ACP

Here's another one. THis is a scratch stock I made awhile back.


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## ACP

Dovetail markers....


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## ACP

Lastly a bow saw from a Grammercy kit.


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## Greg in Maryland

Upstate said:


> Maybe this...


I think that he will need a bigger saw ....


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## firemedic

Greg in Maryland said:


> I think that he will need a bigger saw ....


How bout this one? It's 7'2"

Nahh, still need a bigger one.


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## tc65

Frame saw I built last summer. Blade is from Highland Woodworking.


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## SLAC_Engineer

Here are a couple from this last year. These have been posted around the site as well.

Carvers Mallet









Shooting Board









Tool Dauber









Radius Template









I don't really have a good photo but here is my workbench. Probably the most useful tool in the shop. 









On my todo list is a frame saw and a brass shoulder plane.


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## Woodwart

Love the mallet! Did you make the head, too?


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## SLAC_Engineer

Woodwart said:


> Love the mallet! Did you make the head, too?


Thanks, I made the head as well. Here is the build thread.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/homemade-mallet-40138/


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## gideon

This is a mallet I made for my first lathe project when I was in nightschool.

I didn't like the original plan that my teacher drew up - I wanted something more decorative with a nicer feel to it. So my teacher said "sure, here, change the plans and stick to them or I'll have to fail you on this project".

When I finished it, he wouldn't put it down - everybody loves to handle it.


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## Larrylii

Woodworkingkid said:


> all those hand tools look great. firemedic was the marking gauge you made tough to make because i am thinking about making one i just dont realy know how to.


The marking gauge was in shopnotes 54. A few other ones are available in other issues.


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## firemedic

Another peek at roughed-out parts for the plane I was hinting around at...


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## timetestedtools

> Another peek at roughed-out parts for the plane I was hinting around at...


OK, I obviously missed an important part. We're going to need more info!!


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## tc65

That's some nice machining. I really like the lever cap screw. Show us more! 

If I'm guessing correctly, you will also have a cross rib that will fit across the lever cap - will that be mounted in wood sides, or will you use metal inserts on the sides to stabilize the rib?


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## firemedic

timetestedtools said:


> OK, I obviously missed an important part. We're going to need more info!!


You didn't really miss anything, Don. I only posted a picture of the rear of the plane. I'm building a hybrid fore plane for a friend of mine. It has a persimmon sole and sides, rosewood infill, a 5/16" O1 iron I made, the lever cap you see and cap knob have more work to go. I can't post the plane itself because it's a surprise to the recipient. I did include a picture of the iron though.

I'm building this as a hybrid of sorts because the next one will be a dovetailed steel infill. 



trc65 said:


> That's some nice machining. I really like the lever cap screw. Show us more!
> 
> If I'm guessing correctly, you will also have a cross rib that will fit across the lever cap - will that be mounted in wood sides, or will you use metal inserts on the sides to stabilize the rib?


Yes, it does have a cross pin - also steel. It will be in wood sides but I'm not concerned with reinforcing them with steel, they are into persimmon, an extremely durable wood. 

I'll post pictures of the finished plane once Rob gets it's, I don't want to ruin the surprise!


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## scsmith42

Layne Zuelke said:


> While I didn't make this plane, that's obviously Wayne Anderson, I did engrave it for him. Just completed this week.
> layne Zuelke
> www.cajunhandplanes.com


Layne, both the plane and the engraving are stupendous! Thanks for sharing.


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## mike1950

Some very nice tools but I agree with bench being most important tool and what about the box to put the tools in??


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## firemedic

Nice bench and chests Mike!

A couple more sneak peeks of the plane I'm building for Rob over at Funktionhouse... Hope he doesn't see these!


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## Gilgaron

That looks awesome! How does one knurl knobs, by the way? Buying them as parts always seems very expensive so I imagine they must be tricky.


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## timetestedtools

I just ordered some knurled knobs for my infill, but I was/am thinking of making some. Yours look GREAT. I'd like to hear how you made them as well.


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## mike1950

Thanks Jean, Nice plane!!!!!! Are the sides persimmon? I do not think Rob comes here- he will love it.
I read a little further and see it is persimmon. Pretty slick stuff????


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## Shop Dad

That is looking so good Jean! What are you using for metal work?


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## ACP

That looks like it's gonna be pretty darn nice. That iron is SHINY on the bevel. Can't wait to see more.


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## firemedic

Gilgaron said:


> That looks awesome! How does one knurl knobs, by the way? Buying them as parts always seems very expensive so I imagine they must be tricky.





timetestedtools said:


> I just ordered some knurled knobs for my infill, but I was/am thinking of making some. Yours look GREAT. I'd like to hear how you made them as well.


Thanks! That's not a true knurl. I just eye-ball grooved it with a slim taper file :smile:

I started with a 3/8" slice of 1" rod. Drilled and taped the center at 5/16" threaded a pieces of bolt in and put it in the drill press. That didn't work out so well. I put it in a drill instead and put it too a belt sander to bevel and round it. I then put it in the vise and groves it. In the drill press to polish... Still needs more work though.

There is a knurling tool for metal lathes that I believe is pretty simple to use.


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## firemedic

mike1950 said:


> Thanks Jean, Nice plane!!!!!! Are the sides persimmon? I do not think Rob comes here- he will love it.
> I read a little further and see it is persimmon. Pretty slick stuff????


Yes! That's your persimmon, Mike! It's going to be great for this!!! 



Shop Dad said:


> That is looking so good Jean! What are you using for metal work?


I don't have any true metal working tools other than a fairly large drill press and bench grinder. I used those, a hacksaw, belt sander and a LOT of hand filing to so far!



ACP said:


> That looks like it's gonna be pretty darn nice. That iron is SHINY on the bevel. Can't wait to see more.


It cuts so well! Man, it makes short work of thicknessing - it's going to be a bitter sweet moment when this plane goes in the mail


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## timetestedtools

my mind couldn't get past the need for more grooves. I like the way you did it even better than the ones you buy. Now I'm thinking the ones I ordered will be used elsewhere.


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## firemedic

timetestedtools said:


> my mind couldn't get past the need for more grooves. I like the way you did it even better than the ones you buy. Now I'm thinking the ones I ordered will be used elsewhere.


Want me to make you a knob? Tell me what thread you want and I'll make it if ya want. Might be a couple weeks though.


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## timetestedtools

firemedic said:


> Want me to make you a knob? Tell me what thread you want and I'll make it if ya want. Might be a couple weeks though.


I really appreciate it, but making it is half the fun. I'm going to give it a shot. Did you do something specific to get the spacing of the grooves even? 

I've been thinking just always cut at half the space.


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## firemedic

timetestedtools said:


> I really appreciate it, but making it is half the fun. I'm going to give it a shot. Did you do something specific to get the spacing of the grooves even?
> 
> I've been thinking just always cut at half the space.


I just eye balled it. So a few are a bit off but who cares - not me!


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## timetestedtools

Well, thanks for the inspiration.....


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## firemedic

Very cool, Don! Did you use a plumbing fitting?

I bent the back of the cap down on mine so that the screw would contact the iron flat instead of at an angle. - Something to think about when you work on the cap.

Keep the pictures coming!


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## timetestedtools

its a piece of copper pipe. There are more pic's and the process on the blog.

Thanks for the tip. I'm not sure I can bend my piece, but its something to think about.


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## 3fingers

timetestedtools said:


> Well, thanks for the inspiration.....


Love it


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## STAR

*Rose Sheoak Awl*

Here is my contribution to this thread: 

It is an Awl made from a branch of a Rose Sheoak which is pleantiful around here on the Gold Coast plus a Concrete nail and an offcut of some old Plumber's brass buffed up to its former glory.

I find them extremly handy. This particular Awl is now an International traveller and is hopefully still sitting on a bench in a workshop somewhere in Kentucky.


Pete


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## ACP

Nice awl! I like that idea. I may have to steal that. Not may, but will.


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## Chris Curl

I guess these are more jigs than tools, but they are home made, so maybe they fit in the spirit of the thread ... ?

here is a little center finder tool i made ...

here  is another home made thing for circular saws ...

then there is this one for shappening chisels ...

some home made rulers ...

A router table for 3 routers ...

Some milk jug knobs ...

A hose holder ...

a grinder chop saw ...

A shop built bench grinder ...

And a shop built "miter" saw that is actually not a miter saw at all, just a weak attempt at a chop saw.


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## Tilaran

You gents are too normal. Here's a start in my shop.


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## ACP

Tilaran said:


> You gents are too normal. Here's a start in my shop.


That is a nice molecular polarizer you've made there. And it appears to run on some form of gas to boot! It always helps to have a spare tank nearby when polarizing molecules and such.....


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## amckenzie4

Tilaran said:


> You gents are too normal. Here's a start in my shop.


Is that a table-saw driven belt sander? It's fascinatingly complex, whatever it is.


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## bigbo1234

ACP said:


> That is a nice molecular polarizer you've made there. And it appears to run on some form of gas to boot! It always helps to have a spare tank nearby when polarizing molecules and such.....


No, no, no. That's no molecular polarizer, it's clearly an abbreviated continuum transfunctioner


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## Chris Curl

i don't know about all that, but I love the bungee-code belt tightener!


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## Billy De

Marking gauges and a panel gauge.


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## bigg081

Billy De, 

Would you consider selling a marking gauge?


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## Billy De

bigg081 said:


> Billy De,
> 
> Would you consider selling a marking gauge?


All joking aside I think marking gauges are like clamps you can never have to many.


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## Wrangler02

I think I may have posted these before, but here ya go. I've made these over the last few years.


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## Chris Curl

bigg081 said:


> Billy De,
> 
> Would you consider selling a marking gauge?


just fyi, harbor freight has marking gauges and they are not expensive. they are pretty nice too.


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## firemedic

bigg081 said:


> Billy De,
> 
> Would you consider selling a marking gauge?





Chris Curl said:


> just fyi, harbor freight has marking gauges and they are not expensive. they are pretty nice too.


I still want to do a marking gauge swap. They're not that tough to build.


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## bigg081

Chris Curl said:


> just fyi, harbor freight has marking gauges and they are not expensive. they are pretty nice too.


I have heard both good and bad. I take a look over there. I just thought it would be cool to get a hand made one from a fella on here.


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## amckenzie4

I wrote a review of the HF gauge I bought, which is somewhere in the archives at http://cheapsawdust.blogspot.com/. Short version, take it out of the package before you buy it; some are usable, some aren't. If the beam locks down tight, you should be fine. It will work a lot better if you file the pins to be shaped like a football (or, at least, an American football).


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## Chris Curl

firemedic said:


> I still want to do a marking gauge swap. They're not that tough to build.


I'm in!


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## firemedic

Chris Curl said:


> I'm in!


I'll draw up some rules.


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## ACP

I too am in.


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## firemedic

Chris Curl said:


> I'm in!





ACP said:


> I too am in.


I started a thread in the General section - can't link to it from mobile though.


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## mengtian

*Nothing fancy*

Nothing fancy at all and technically an accessory. I do not know I got buy the last few months with out a feather board. I made several yesterday. Here is one. It also makes me wonder why folks buy them!

(I got the miter slot bars on sale. Rockler had them for 5 dollars a pair I believe. I got 10 of them for future use.


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## Chris Curl

firemedic said:


> I started a thread in the General section - can't link to it from mobile though.


Here's the link:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/marking-gauge-swap-49324/


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## JQMack

Not pretty or fancy. But it works.


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## firemedic

This one is almost done...


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## mengtian

firemedic said:


> This one is almost done...


Did you make the plans or get them from somewhere....I am intrgued about making my own someday.

Looks fantastic!


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## timetestedtools

ssaawwweeeetttttt!!


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## Wema826

Sweet lookin plane!


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## firemedic

Thank you all for the generous compliments.



mengtian said:


> Did you make the plans or get them from somewhere....I am intrgued about making my own someday.
> 
> Looks fantastic!


I didn't have plans. I knew what my bedding angle would be and I knew basically what profile I wanted, the rest was built by the seat of my pants :smile:

The picture attached was a plane I found in a shop and was the inspiration for the handle on mine.


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## Shop Dad

Where do I place my order?!!

Seriously Jean, that is just gorgeous! Looks like it's ready to hog out some material. Is that mouth for a cambered blade?


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## Gilgaron

Nice! Does the 06 mean that this is your sixth plane or that it is a #6 size plane?


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## firemedic

Shop Dad said:


> Where do I place my order?!!
> 
> Seriously Jean, that is just gorgeous! Looks like it's ready to hog out some material. Is that mouth for a cambered blade?


If you really do want one, rest assured I have no intention of breaking the mold! :no:

Yes the iron is heavily cambered as typical with a Fore Plane - see picture below.



Gilgaron said:


> Nice! Does the 06 mean that this is your sixth plane or that it is a #6 size plane?


I've adopted the Stanley size scale - so yes to the #6 size, it's a Fore Plane.


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## 3fingers

What is it?


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## cabinetman

Some simple ones...

A wide scraper...









A small miter gauge...
.

























.


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## Wema826

I like the scraper idea, It sure does put a good use to used planer blades!


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## BZawat

3fingers said:


> What is it?


Ergonomically contoured sanding block?


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## 3fingers

BZawat said:


> Ergonomically contoured sanding block?


You are correct sir.


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## 3fingers

cabinetman said:


> Some simple ones...
> 
> A wide scraper...
> 
> A small miter gauge...
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Great idea.


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## johnmark

some of these are too pretty to use. 

whoever made the bow saw, bench, and marking guage. these are all of the projects i want to do in coming years.


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## renaissanceww

*Resaw Frame Saws*








Since there are a few mentions of frame saws in this thread I thought I would throw in my contribution. I built 2 resaw dedicated frame saws based off the now famous Andre Roubo plate. The beast is a 4x48" blade with 3 ppi. I tried 2 and 3" wide blades too but the 4" works best for tracking a line through really wide stuff. (most I have cut is a 24" wide Walnut slab so far). The smaller guy is a 2x36" blade also at 3 ppi and a slightly shorter wheelbase to the frame. This is one I use for veneer work as I usually am only sawing veneers for smaller things like drawer fronts. It handles 12" wide stock nicely and I have sawn 1/8" veneers with it. I'm sure it would go thinner but I like a heavier veneer since I usually tooth it and smooth it later.

If you want to see the saw in action I posted a video on my site and it also has links to the blacksmith and saw maker I worked with on the hardware.


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## timetestedtools

the frame saws are fantastic.


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## Alchymist

Nothing as fancy as what the others are posting, but they work. Made to accompany my homemade pen lathe; skew from an old rusty file, gouge from a piece of steel rod from a printer, and a fixture for pressing pen hardware. Skew works quite well, used it to turn the handle for the gouge. Still need to practice my sharpening skills on the gouge! :yes:


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## timetestedtools

More pic'e and the blog.


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## firemedic

I'll be finalizing some design sketches today for a project that member Layne Zuelke and I will be collaborating on soon. 

This is just a teaser - no clues and no peeks :smile: but I will just say they will be one of a kind cool! Oh and a matched set of 5.


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## Wema826

firemedic said:


> I'll be finalizing some design sketches today for a project that member Layne Zuelke and I will be collaborating on soon.
> 
> This is just a teaser - no clues and no peeks :smile: but I will just say they will be one of a kind cool! Oh and a matched set of 5.


Can i guess? Hollows and rounds?


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## firemedic

Wema826 said:


> Can i guess? Hollows and rounds?


An odd number of H&R's wouldn't be all that "matched" now would they?


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## Wema826

Could have been a matched set of 5 pairs......


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## firemedic

Wema826 said:


> Could have been a matched set of 5 pairs......


lol, no


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## firemedic

renaissanceww said:


> Since there are a few mentions of frame saws in this thread I thought I would throw in my contribution. I built 2 resaw dedicated frame saws based off the now famous Andre Roubo plate. The beast is a 4x48" blade with 3 ppi. I tried 2 and 3" wide blades too but the 4" works best for tracking a line through really wide stuff. (most I have cut is a 24" wide Walnut slab so far). The smaller guy is a 2x36" blade also at 3 ppi and a slightly shorter wheelbase to the frame. This is one I use for veneer work as I usually am only sawing veneers for smaller things like drawer fronts. It handles 12" wide stock nicely and I have sawn 1/8" veneers with it. I'm sure it would go thinner but I like a heavier veneer since I usually tooth it and smooth it later.
> 
> If you want to see the saw in action I posted a video on my site and it also has links to the blacksmith and saw maker I worked with on the hardware.



Nice looking saws, buddy. Did you tooth the saw plats or find a place willing to make em? I want a veneer web but have been coming up short of time to source the steel and tooth it... I went back and for with Thomas Flinn and despite making a few for CW they couldn't seem to wrap their head around what I wanted. They did I nice job on my open Pit saw though.

I also have to make a frame pit saw to accompany my open pit saw for the museum. I'm probably going to just tooth a piece of band saw stock for 'decoration' lol


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## woodnthings

*Bump....*

This is an awesome thread for handtool woodworkers! :smile3:


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## Belg

*My small collection*

I know I'm WAY OUT CLASSED but they are very functional.


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## Belg

A couple more. 
Plane screwdriver









panel gauges


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## BZawat

I'm definitely going to order a kit for that frame saw from Blackburn tools, as soon as I recover from all the money I spent this week on a shelix head & a chainsaw lol

I've been hoping to find a way to resaw a 3" thick walnut burl slab, and a 4' frame saw is the answer!!


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## philmy

Just finished these yesterday. 









Turned the handles and milled/cleaned up the1/2" steel.


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## jessesnowden

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums...obile Uploads/20160505_164325_zpsjp4vyp5d.jpg

It's hard to mess up 2 pieces of wood... but other than my work bench I think this is all that counts as a tool.


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## Wyo7200

My first hand made planes.











Decided to add a deep adjustment/stop to them to add some stability and control.


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## Bruce Miller

*Cold in the shop*

Made a quick mallet last week between the cold cold days.
I make models so don't need a heavy duty one.
This is a dead blow mallet.
Mahogany walnut oak.
Then one from last year.
Oak, mahogany with a touch a walnut.


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## Bruce Miller

Love cyclones really helps in the shop.
Turned me into a cleaner upper.


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