# Mixing Wipe On Poly with BLO?



## gideon (May 26, 2010)

I like the protective qualities of wipe on poly but I don't like its plasticy harshness. 

Does anybody have a formula for thinning it down or making it smoother with BLO and mineral spirits? Would thinning it down with BLO alone be sufficient to soften the finish?


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

A common starting point would be to mix 1/3 poly, 1/3 BLO and 1/3 MS. I've done a little of that and to be honest, I prefer to just take regular poly and thin it with MS for a wipe on version. Before you start adding BLO to the mix, I'd take a little poly in a jar, thin 10-20% (or somewhere near there) with MS and try wiping it on. I much prefer the look as you are getting it in much thinner layers than brushing. On a lot of small boxes and other projects that don't need a lot of protection, I'll use about three - four coats of wipe on poly and I don't think it has any of that "plastic" look that you can get with thicker layers of un-thinned poly that is brushed on.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Personally I think the chemists that have formulated these finishes know more about them than anyone here. I don't like trying to re-invent them mixing anything else into them. I think when you play chemist, initially you may have good results but may undermine the long term durability. Therefore I thin the first coat of polyurethane with mineral spirits as directed but the finish coat I try not to alter at all. The aversion to the plasticy I believe is the sheen. You might try using a flatter sheen than what you have been using or mixing two different sheens of the same product together.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Steve Neul said:


> Personally I think the chemists that have formulated these finishes know more about them than anyone here. I don't like trying to re-invent them mixing anything else into them. I think when you play chemist, initially you may have good results but may undermine the long term durability. Therefore I thin the first coat of polyurethane with mineral spirits as directed but the finish coat I try not to alter at all. The aversion to the plasticy I believe is the sheen. You might try using a flatter sheen than what you have been using or mixing two different sheens of the same product together.


I love the way tung oil/varnish mix has that dull sheen but it is not a very durable finish for things which will be in constant regular use. But the poly, the matte finish, doesn't even approach what the oil finishes do. I need to find a balance so I can get maximum protection with the nicest penetration and grain pop I can get.

I don't have the ability to spray and I can't use laquer due to the size and location of my shop.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

for example, check out these two links showing tables I've built - the first is a top with high gloss poly and the second is one with tung oil/varnish mix. how can I get close to the second photo with poly? 

Satin poly does not look nearly as nice.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f....315868188469856.72450.315797988476876&type=3

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f....315868188469856.72450.315797988476876&type=3

Most of my customers want the oil finish look and feel but with more durability...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

gideon said:


> for example, check out these two links showing tables I've built - the first is a top with high gloss poly and the second is one with tung oil/varnish mix. how can I get close to the second photo with poly?
> 
> Satin poly does not look nearly as nice.
> 
> ...


Which "tung oil/varnish" are you referring to? Oil base poly already has an oil ratio. Adding more oil will reduce its hardness, and not likely change the sheen. Both of your pictures look pretty shiny to me.









 







.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Have you thought about switching to a non-poly varnish. A product such as Pratt and Lambert #38 (an alkyd-soya oil varnish) or Sherwin Williams Fast Dry Oil Varnish (an alkyd-linseed oil formula) may give you an appearance that has a much nicer (IMHO) appearance. I gave up on anything poly quite some time ago due to that plastic look you mention (and a few other reasons). Non poly varnishes are much harder to find, other than the SW stuff, but well worth searching out.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

I don't have experience with finishes other than what I can get at HD or Lowes. There is a Sherwin Williams not far from me, I hadn't thought about going in there. Thanks much for the info!


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Fred Hargis said:


> Have you thought about switching to a non-poly varnish. A product such as Pratt and Lambert #38 (an alkyd-soya oil varnish) or Sherwin Williams Fast Dry Oil Varnish (an alkyd-linseed oil formula) may give you an appearance that has a much nicer (IMHO) appearance. I gave up on anything poly quite some time ago due to that plastic look you mention (and a few other reasons). Non poly varnishes are much harder to find, other than the SW stuff, but well worth searching out.


These finishes you mention, are they durable moreso than stuff like watco teak oil and formby's tung oil?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

gideon said:


> These finishes you mention, are they durable moreso than stuff like watco teak oil and formby's tung oil?


Watco Teak Oil Finish, and Formby's are an oil varnish mix. Their oil content is greater than a straight interior varnish. IOW, there is a greater resin to oil ratio in a straight varnish.









 







.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Yep, they most certainly are. Frankly they are as durable as any poly varnish as well, with one exception: they may be slightly less scratch resistant (poly's most endearing feature). But for chemical resistance, cleaning, or any other abuse they are very durable.


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