# Incra Ultra / Adding Table to TS



## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

I just purchased a used Incra Ultra Jig with the intention of using it on my primary router table.

Once I downloaded the user manual I discovered that it can be used on a table saw as well

I have an older Delta Unisaw and I like it alot but have always been unhappy with the fence. 









Whenever I shift the fence I have to raise my blade to full height and take blade to fence measurements at the leading and trailing edges of the blade to ensure an accurate cut. PITA!

So I've decided to use the Incra jig as a fence for my table saw as well as my router table.

My problem is this. The jig clamps to the saw table but currently if I do so the Max blade to fence measurement I can get is considerably less than if I use the original fence.









The way I see it I need to add more table to my saw in order to be able to mount the new fence further from the blade.

So far so good but......

The right hand "leaf" of my saw has no holes to bolt into.









The left hand leaf does although they are hard to see in this photo.









I am right -handed and for whatever reason am accustomed to using my TS with the original fence to the right of the blade, guiding/feeding material with my right hand and putting my body directly behind the blade.

From a safety POV I'd be better off placing my fence to the left of the blade, still feeding with my right hand and keeping my body to the left of blade and material yes?

This being the safety solution I can remove the right leaf of the saw and add it to the left leaf and clamp the new fence to it to get a greater cut width than I could by mounting it with the leaves in their current location but still not get the width of cut I get with the original fence and I'd lose material support on the right side of the table.

Additional photos:

















What to do?

Can I buy additional steel leafs (2) to add to the one currently left of the blade? 

If I do so both will be hanging off the existing leaf. That seems like alot of stress on steel table and connecting bolts.

Argh! My head hurts.

Any suggestions?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

PS, My TS is right tilt.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Keep it on the right. You can easily drill holes you need in the right table (leaf) and bolt on an addition made a number of ways. You might want to take the opportunity to add a router table as the addition. Look at table saw router table attachments from MLCS, Rockler, Jessem, Peachtree and others.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Thanks SD, 

I'm curious though. Why keep it on the right? Although that'd be most comfortable for me as that's what I'm used it seems counterintuitive from a safety standpoint.

Does it have to do with the saw being a right tilt?

And thanks for the router table idea. I didn't consider that because I already have two but a third would be great for three setup router operations.

I'll build the wing as you suggest and cut in for a router plate and combination track when I can afford the 3 HP router I've been wanting.

I'm not any good with metal but my neighbor will help me with the drilling and tapping on the existing right hand wing.

I'll leave the existing fence rails on and use them to support the new wing on right.

Thanks again


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## sawdust55109 (Mar 18, 2012)

jharris said:


> I just purchased a used Incra Ultra Jig with the intention of using it on my primary router table.
> 
> Once I downloaded the user manual I discovered that it can be used on a table saw as well
> 
> ...


Curious as to why you would want to use this as your fence.
It would seem as though your original fence is out of alignment and can easily be fixed.
Not sue if you have a Beismyer or Uni but either is simple to adjust.
-loosen the 4 bolts on the underside corners and align the miter slot parallel to the blade.
-adjust the fence parallel to the miter slot. (screws behind the hande where is slides on the back side of the fence guide. Carefull with these adjustments. There are two screws. One on each side and you must move them both. If you move one out 1/8 turn you should move the other 1/8 turn in.)

With a properly adjusted fence and table, most of your problems are solved.
Just a thought.


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## qgranfor (Jul 2, 2010)

Since you already have the Incra Ultra fence have you considered the Incra TS Base Mount packages? Such as http://www.incrementaltools.com/TS_...2_Rip_Capacit_p/ts-iiimount-fslash-rail72.htm

Kinda pricey though.....but you'd keep a decent rip capacity.

It was a quick bolt on replacement for the Delta TS I have which appears to be around the same time era as yours.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. The last photo on my original post here is of my existing fence.

Gotta get work but I'll check in later


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## Huxleywood (Feb 24, 2012)

I think the best way to go is get the TS base setup. I love my Incra TS fence. Trying to use it without the base gives very little rip width and seems like it would be a general PITA.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

I'd just like to have the option of using this fence. The more versatile a shop is and the more operational options that are available the better.

What I'm thinking of now is being able to make accurate incremental dadoes for drawer dividers, parts storage etc. There are so many uses for this jig. Probably many that I haven't thought of yet.


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## Bob R (Sep 22, 2010)

qgranfor said:


> Since you already have the Incra Ultra fence have you considered the Incra TS Base Mount packages? Such as http://www.incrementaltools.com/TS_...2_Rip_Capacit_p/ts-iiimount-fslash-rail72.htm
> 
> Kinda pricey though.....but you'd keep a decent rip capacity.
> 
> It was a quick bolt on replacement for the Delta TS I have which appears to be around the same time era as yours.


The price of the table extension from Peachtree is the same as the Incra TS Base Mount $239.00, i think i'd go with the Incra Base Mount.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Thanks, I'll look at the features on the Incra and Peachtree base mounts.

Realized I can switch the wings of my table saw top from left to right and visa versa. I think there mounted bass backwards anyway because the radiused corners are to the inside.

That'll put my mounting holes to the right where I need them.


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## Bob R (Sep 22, 2010)

Depending on what Incra base mount you get, they have mounting hardware for a shop made router table to be inserted alongside your existing cast iron wings,and they are reasonable.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

That's a pretty cool system. Hadn't seen the whole thing from Incra. Looks like you are on a good track! :thumbsup:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Canarywood said:


> Depending on what Incra base mount you get, they have mounting hardware for a shop made router table to be inserted alongside your existing cast iron wings,and they are reasonable.


Thanks Canary, Ill check this out before I make any decisions. If it'd be convenient for you would you please post a link to the mounting hardware you mentioned?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Shop Dad said:


> That's a pretty cool system. Hadn't seen the whole thing from Incra. Looks like you are on a good track! :thumbsup:


Thanks SD, ShopNotes said "this system is complex but not complicated" Still trying to wrap my head around that statement but I'm sure once I get past the learning curve I'll benefit from the effort.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Just curious, if you have used a Biesemeyer fence, or one of the clones? 
I like the ease of use, and removal, for crosscuts.

Can the Incra, be made easily removable? Seems like it would be easy to line up with the miter slot, when mounting.


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## Huxleywood (Feb 24, 2012)

Pirate said:


> Just curious, if you have used a Biesemeyer fence, or one of the clones?
> I like the ease of use, and removal, for crosscuts.
> 
> Can the Incra, be made easily removable? Seems like it would be easy to line up with the miter slot, when mounting.


The "standard" Incra table saw fence system is easy to remove, the only real issue is it is more bulky to store once off.


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## Bob R (Sep 22, 2010)

jharris said:


> Thanks Canary, Ill check this out before I make any decisions. If it'd be convenient for you would you please post a link to the mounting hardware you mentioned?


 
You may not need the whole base mount package, only the rails which are much cheaper depending on length $99.00 to $149.00.

Here's the link you asked for.

http://www.incrementaltools.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TSRTHW


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Huxleywood said:


> The "standard" Incra table saw fence system is easy to remove, the only real issue is it is more bulky to store once off.


My storage solution


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Oops.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Pirate said:


> Just curious, if you have used a Biesemeyer fence, or one of the clones?
> I like the ease of use, and removal, for crosscuts.
> 
> Can the Incra, be made easily removable? Seems like it would be easy to line up with the miter slot, when mounting.


Yes I have considered Beisemeyer. Who hasn't? I understand its a quality product but once I found I can use the Incra on my TS I thought it would be best to use it instead of buying a dedicated TS fence. @&*$% that dang budget.

Yes. Very easily moved from router table to TS.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

I checked out the ready-made options you suggested and there is just no in the budget for such an expenditure right now.

Since already have most of the materials I'm going to build my own platform, install it to the right and try to install it in such a way so I can either fold it down or remove it altogether (small shop). 

I'll use legs on the right side with height adjusting feet for outboard support.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Day 1:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Oops


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Day 2:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Day 2/2,


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Apologies, App crash


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

One more thing:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Another app crash, PITA!


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Your work is inspiring. And humbling. Great photo sequence! Keep 'em coming, please.

Dan


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Thanks Dan. Many techniques that I'm using on this project I learned from more experienced folks than myself in this forum.

I hope you're enjoying this thread as much as I'm enjoying the project.

I made some progress today.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

App crash


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

App crash, this would be easier with a computer!


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Very well deserved snack and clamato. 

Maaaan, that thing is nice.

You had me confused with the plexi lam, but I think I got it now. For thickness and support? Or is there more to it than just that?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Thanks Autre, 

I started out with 1" MDF and needed to build up from there to match the inside height of the aluminum angle.

I scrounged through materials I had on hand and found some clean 1/4" maple veneered plywood and the plexi.

The top of the aluminum angle ended up a fuzz below the surface of the laminate. I was hoping that it would be perfectly flush but in this case a fuzz under is better than a fuzz over.

I need to decide how to do the legs. The aluminum won't keep the heavy wing on plane with the TS on its own.

I'll have to glue up some 3/4 oak I have and use that. I'll put leveling feet on the legs.

I have to figure out how to attach the legs to the wing with hinges so I can swing them towards the saw base when I have to move the saw.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

This is looking great! Thanks for posting all the pix. Why don't you make it a cabinet and give yourself more stability and some storage?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Thanks SD, 

The cabinet is out of the question. I have way too much storage already. JOKING!!!

That's a great idea. It would allow me to get my TS blades and accessories off the pegboard and at the TS where it belongs. 
The saw is on a mobile base so attaching the wing/cabinet to the saw cabinet with some kind of horizontal struts (from the bottom of cabinet to the saw base) would make it easy to move if I put the lift pedal for the base on the other side of the saw.

That being the case the struts would need to be adjustable so that I can keep the wing top on plane with the TS top.

I'm not sure how to do this.

Any suggestions?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

My saw:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Sorry, here ya go.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Ok. I think I have this figured out. Stay tuned.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Look forward to your solution. I'd be concerned about torking the top by lifting one side. Typically a top like that is attached to the rails. Wondering if you could add some angle iron behind the existing rail to extend?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Dang, I really need to learn sketch-up. 

This evening I'll hand draw a rough sketch, take picture of it and post it.

My idea will eliminate the need for adjustable feet and make it possible move the saw without any subsequent adjustment.

Decided to use your cabinet suggestion. 

I need drawer storage more than a third router table right now.

I'll add a router table to my RAS bench when I rework it.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I've been looking at doing something like this:
http://www.woodstore.net/mosaroce.html

You have additional challenges with a cabinet saw to avoid putting full casters under it, raising it too high. I think there are a number of ways around it but could take some creativity since I don't think anyone makes an "out of the box" solution. (That sounded kind of "corporaty" didn't it? :laughing: ) My HTC mobile base just has the feet you screw down so it doesn't really lift.

The cabinet side is easier as you can build it to requirements using double locking casters of your choice.

Maybe just swivel casters and a couple of these?
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/w...enches/making-workbenches-mobile-and-immobile


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Thank you for the links. 

The first is seems like it would involve a "start-all-over" on my current project but it's really slick. If you decide to do it please start a build thread when you begin. I'd follow it for sure. 

The second link seems like it might be the solution to my primary router table issue. 

The swivel casters that I presently have are not locking because I have no access to them.









The existing solution is this:









on both ends of the opposite side of the bench. 

I'm not at all happy with this now but it's really gonna suck once I get a face vice installed, restore some hand planes and start learning how to use them. Rock & Roll is great but its not a desirable trait for a work bench.

Regarding my current project this is the solution I've come up with.









The drawing is not to scale and is meant to be self explanatory but that's easy for me to say as the illustrator. 

Please feel free to ask questions. I really appreciate your input.


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## Kirby Hidy (Apr 3, 2012)

Looks to me like you could simply swap the cast iron leaves. Unbolt them from the saw table, turn the left one end for end, and bolt it onto the right side. Then you could build a router extension table (space permitting) and have the router on the right side and use your Incra fence. BTW - having had both a Beismeyer and a TS-III on my table saw, I found myself preferring the Beis. TS-III was indeed great for repeatability and did some neat things. However, removing it occasionally for special cuts was awkward and it's difficult to place out of the way when you need to. Also might want to do some alignment work on your saw top to make it parrallel to the blade as previously suggested. Just my 2 cents.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Hey Kriby - Welcome to the forum. :smile:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Hello Kirby,

I did swap the wings end for end so I could bolt the new wing on the right.

The router table suggestion is good one but I already have two.

Shop Dad suggested a cabinet for storage TS accessories and because I need storage more than another router table I'm going to go with his suggestion.

I think I've come up with a way to have a rigid but adjustable connection between the bottom of the cabinet and the TS base.

Here's a rough sketch. Please take a look at it and tell me what you think. 

I appreciate your input.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Here it is:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Here's a better picture,

The area highlighted is the area showing how I plan to level the new wing with the existing steel wing in order to eliminate the need for castors or height adjusting feet. 

I move my TS alot because my shop is small (two car garage).

Threaded rods (2) will be installed into through-holes drilled into the bottom of the TS base and extend through one continuous piece of steel angle attached to the bottom inside corner of the drawer stack accessory cabinet.

Wing leveling will be accomplished with the nuts and lock nuts located on the threaded rod where it passes through holes drilled in the steel angle attached to the bottom corner of the drawer stack. 
Yes? 

Other suggestions?

See any problems with this arrangement?


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Shop Dad said:


> I've been looking at doing something like this:
> http://www.woodstore.net/mosaroce.html
> 
> You have additional challenges with a cabinet saw to avoid putting full casters under it, raising it too high. I think there are a number of ways around it but could take some creativity since I don't think anyone makes an "out of the box" solution. (That sounded kind of "corporaty" didn't it? :laughing: ) My HTC mobile base just has the feet you screw down so it doesn't really lift.
> ...


Corporaty? That's a new word for me. My dictionary was no help. Always looking for new vocabulary. Help please.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

jharris said:


> Corporaty? That's a new word for me. My dictionary was no help. Always looking for new vocabulary. Help please.


Made it up. :yes: AKA corporate-schpeak. A candidate for boardroom bingo. Throwing around words and phrases like "solution" and "out of the box" etc.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

One important thing I'm not clear on from your drawing - you are planning to use swivel casters to support the cabinet? I think it would be a problem if you didn't as it would pull down that side of the table and possibly make it dangerous of tipping. Assuming the use of casters on the far corners of the cabinet, I think it becomes a question of rigidity. The threaded rod at the bottom may work ok as long as it's thick enough, but what do you have connecting the top? That will get stressed too.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

I hadn't planned to use castors because I think the threaded rod once adjusted would would provide enough support.

However, that was before you suggested a cabinet. Now I'll be adding alot of weight to the wing.

I also hadn't considered tipping. Thank you for bringing that to my attention.

I'll add height adjusting casters.

The new wing will attach to the existing wing with three bolts, washers and lock washers through the aluminum angle attached to the wing.

Along with the threaded rod and casters this should provide plenty of support. Yes?

I don't want to eliminate the threaded rod because it'll allow me another layer of adjustability and greater lateral support to prevent the bottom of the cabinet from swinging towards the TS base.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

jharris said:


> However, that was before you suggested a cabinet. Now I'll be adding alot of weight to the wing.


Maybe at this point I should just come over and help instead of throwing off your build! :blink:

Definitely keep the threaded rod. You may be OK with the aluminum angle. If you find you need more support you might be able to incorporate some steel angle.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...53&langId=-1&keyword=angle+iron&storeId=10051


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Shop Dad said:


> Maybe at this point I should just come over and help instead of throwing off your build! :blink:
> 
> Definitely keep the threaded rod. You may be OK with the aluminum angle. If you find you need more support you might be able to incorporate some steel angle.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Metal-Stock/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1vZ25ecodZar1m/R-202183572/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=angle+iron&storeId=10051


Your not throwing off my build at all. The cabinet storage and castor suggestions were dead- on and I really do appreciate you interest in my project and the help.

You'd be welcome in my shop any time. As a matter of fact I often wish I had a woodworking buddy here in town.

My best bud's don't live in Albuquerque anymore and I don't see them but once in a blue moon.

It's funny how thing's work out sometimes. After deciding to use your cabinet idea I was wondering how much it was going to cost me to buy cabinet plywood.

I'm currently involved in a kitchen remod where we had to tear out the cabinets. The cabinets that were installed by the previous contractor (fired). The client is a bit of hoarder (takes one to know one) so we broke the cabinets down and stored the components in her already packed garage.

Now she can't even walk in there so today she tells me if I build her a little tea cart I can have what I want out of the garage.

Short story long now I have the material for this TS cabinet project plus a bunch of unused maple 1x8x10', a little cherry and what looks like walnut.

There are a bunch of drawers that can be modified to my project or I can at least cut down the drawer fronts and use them.

I hope this isn't coming across as a gloat. I'm so jazzed about it I just had to tell someone.

I'll start hauling some of this stuff home tmrw and keep you posted on the project.

In the meantime if you have anymore ideas I'd like to hear them.

Thanks SD


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Just wanted to let you know that I haven't abandoned this project or this thread.

I got sidetracked by another project.

I suffer from PADD (Project Attention Deficit Disorder) 

I hope to I hope to build the TS drawer stack portion of this project thread soon and I'll resume posts on this thread.

Best wishes,

Jeff


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## qgranfor (Jul 2, 2010)

jharris said:


> I suffer from PADD (Project Attention Deficit Disorder)
> Jeff


I think I have a new sign to hang up in my shop. :thumbsup:


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Please make two. I'll buy the second one.

Serious!

My latest "distraction" is in "Project Showcase". Search "Charging Station/Shopcart Makeover" if your interested.

Jeff


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

I finally had the time to complete this project.

The entire project was made from salvaged materials with the exception of the stain, aluminum angle, threaded rod, nuts and washers.

Thanks for suggesting the cabinet Shop Dad.

There was some concern that by suspending the cabinet I might end up with a tippy TS. I kept the cabinet as small as I could while still being able to store my TS accessories close at hand and the unit is very stable.

I'm very pleased with how this project turned out. I have my accessories close at hand, I've freed up a lot of pegboard for other purposes and I can move the saw around and never worry about racking the new wing out of alignment with the the original top.

My original intent was to extend the blade to fence distance on the TS but I only added a couple of inches.

Still, I consider this project a successful one.

I can still use the original fence by simply unclamping the base for the incra fence.

That base will be reconfigured so I can move it to my RT for accurate incremental cuts on long workpieces.

My next steps are to install a flexible hose from the "dust diverter " under the blade to the DC connection mounted on the back of the TS base.


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## Kirby Hidy (Apr 3, 2012)

Holy Smokes! I am more than impressed and inspired. So much so in fact, I want take a similar approach in my own shop that's in the process of being rebuilt and re-tooled (a long story). Indeed a nice piece of work my friend. Dang I like that! Thanks!


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Wow, that's awesome! Really looks great. I keep thinking onboard storage is the way to go with machines as I look around the mess in my shop. You really nailed it! Thanks for following up and posting the finished work.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

looks like a lot of thought and effort was put into that extension wing to hold the incra fence. any fear that gravity, continually pulling down on that structure seemingly suspended solely from the fence rails, will, in time, create deflection in the rails? i see why the threaded rods are there to prevent the structure from swaying, but they don't appear to offer any vertical support.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Thanks TG,

It wasn't an easy build at least not for me but I enjoyed the design challenge and I'm very happy with the results.

There is no connection at all to the original fence rails.

The threaded rod works well because the fulcrum of the downward force is at the connection of the left side of the new wing to the original top.

Gravity wants to pull the right side of top down so that load is transferred down the right side of the cabinet then back to the saw chassis via the threaded rod.

I placed a six foot level with a magnetic strip on the original top and across the new wing in order to align every thing.

Once this was done, all the lock nuts were tight and I loaded the drawers I pushed down on the wing hard enough to tip the saw and everything stayed in alignment.

Your right though. Had I used 1/4" threaded rod instead of 3/8" there might have been enough lateral deflection in the rod to drop the wing.

So far so good. I'll check with the level occasionally but I don't anticipate any issues.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> Wow, that's awesome! Really looks great. I keep thinking onboard storage is the way to go with machines as I look around the mess in my shop. You really nailed it! Thanks for following up and posting the finished work.


Thanks very much SD. Onboard storage is definitely the way to go.

Not only does it keep needed items close at hand for each particular machine it maximizes what is usually wasted space below our machines and frees up other spaces for better use.

Your ideas and suggestions really helped me along in this project and I'm very grateful for your input.

Please keep us posted on your onboard storage projects.

Jeff


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

The sawga continues...

I've wanted a large outfeed table for my TS for some time now.

My neighbor works as a set builder for the movie industry. Knowing what a miser/cheapskate/dump rat I am he gave me two TS outfeed tables.

They're made on site out of 1x4s with a 1/8" top and disposed of at the end of set production.

First, I removed the 1/8" top. I then added a 3/4" frame between the bottom frame and the top.

After this I ripped some salvaged 2x lumber into 1/2" strips, routed a 1/8 RO at the top corners and brad nailed them to the two lower horizontal frame elements to create additional storage.

Next I added 3/4" trim to hide the slat ends and flush the shelves with the legs.



I recently replaced Formica (HPL for you more technical folks) counter and bar tops with concrete tops. I used the 60"x36" Formica bar top for this project.



Because I wanted to attach the top to the frame with pocket screws (yes yes I know)...



... and because the top is considerably wider than the base I had to add 1x material to the bottom of the top so that I'd have something to screw into.



After attaching the top I needed some sort of leveling mechanism and found these...

http://woodworker.com/adjustable-corner-leveler-mssu-943-713.asp?search=levelers&searchmode=2



The only thing remaining is to to rout miter bar slots for a panel sled.



Total material cost for this project? $23.52 plus whatever I paid for fourteen pocket screws.

Say it often and say it loud, "I'm cheap and I'm proud!!!"


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