# A deck for some friends.



## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

Hi guys! Just wanted to show a deck I built for some good friends of mine. I also have some questions that some of you may be able to answer. Tell me what you think!

6x6 posts, 2x12 beams, 2x10 joists, 5/4x6 decking, 2x4s and 1x1s for railing. The stair treads were cut from 2x10s with 5/4 for the risers. We left a small gap between the tread and riser for water/snow drainage.

1. I built this deck for no fee. It was for some friends who are like family to me and he helped me so I didn't charge them. I'm not a professional deck builder, so I wanted to ask, how much would you guys charge to build this deck?

2. I have some concerns. One, should I install some cross bracing from post to post or maybe some Y braces from beam to post? I'm concerned with the deck racking and toppling over lol. I'm pretty sure it wont, but I did not install a ledger under the door so water has a place drain (yes, there is a ledger against the other wall).

3. I have some concerns over the stairs. A master stair builder I am not! My friend wants to add a lower deck in the near future so those steps will be somewhat rebuilt to sit on the future lower deck. Should I build a landing in between the decks when I build the lower deck? I used every bit of 3 2x12x16s for stringers and had to finagle them a bit to get them (what I think) is safely secured to the 6x6 sleeper we buried in the ground. I guess I'll find out when the inspector comes for a final inspection!


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## buggyman1 (Nov 16, 2011)

Deck looks good. The bottom of the stairs are usually resting on piers or a concrete pad. Nice job on the deck.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Looks very nice. You did a good job. 
Looks like the birds like it to.


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Thats not a deck....Thats a space station...


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

buggyman1 said:


> Deck looks good. The bottom of the stairs are usually resting on piers or a concrete pad. Nice job on the deck.


Yeah. I wanted to pour a small pad for them to rest on, but honestly, I had no experience in building such a long staircase and didn't know exactly where they would end up and I didn't want them to end up sitting on the front lip of a 4 foot deep pad! Also, with his plans on building a lower deck in the near future, I just didn't see the point in putting more concrete in the ground. What we did is bury 2 6x6's in the ground, then rest another one across them. I put in some ledger lags and 2 1/2" screws to hold them together and rested the stairs on them. Eventually, when we build the lower level, the stairs will just end right on it.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

As a builder and Project Manager I give you a Not bad

_We left a small gap between the tread and riser for water/snow drainage._ Not on the bottom two where the snow will be.......

I don't like the baluster details. I see them done this way all the time and I've always disliked them because the snow and leaves just collect and there's no where to shovel or sweep.

You used three posts on one girder and two posts with huge cantilevers on the the other one???? Did you forget a sonotube????:laughing:

I don't like the deck being level to the inside floor system.
Rain and snow splash inside the door.

I sound like a jerk, huh?
I'm not
I'm just pointing out details that you asked about.
If we all just say nice job and well done, you don't learn anything.

You did a great job on what you knew.
The rest is just details

You're a good friend and I commend your effort......nicely done.....
Tom


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

tcleve4911 said:


> As a builder and Project Manager I give you a Not bad
> 
> _We left a small gap between the tread and riser for water/snow drainage._ Not on the bottom two where the snow will be.......
> 
> ...


Thanks Tom! There are a few things I didn't like either. Mostly with the stairs. Such as the railing on the deck side. My friend did the ballasters himself after I had to leave one day and I think they look pretty sloppy, and the risers on the last two steps, but hey..... it's his deck!


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## ecr (Jan 4, 2011)

the one thing you should think about next time is to build up your beams. they will be stronger lamanated together. also notch your post so the beam is suported by the post. this way you are not putting all the weigth on the lag bolts. here is a pic of one of a beam on one of my decks. i use a 3 ply beam with a notched post. the post is notched for 2 plys and a 2 x 6 block is bolted to the post for the third ply of the beam.


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

thanks ECR. I've seen it done like that before and I like it! I think I will build like that in the future. Definitely makes a stronger deck.

What is the easiest way to mark out and form the the notches? I would think that I would set all of the posts, set a string line and cut to height, then use the string to mark for the notches. How do you like to go about cutting the notch itself?


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## jkline805 (Nov 14, 2011)

Something to keep in mind also, when using sono tubes, one of the ways they work to prevent frost heave (not sure where you live) is to create a smooth surface on the outside of the footing so the frozen dirt has nothing to grab onto when heaving. If you just pour the concrete into the jagged hole, it will conform to the shape of the hole and will be more prone to lifting when/if the ground freezes and heaves. Another alternative to footings would be a product called Diamond Pier. We sell them up here in Mn with great success.


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## ecr (Jan 4, 2011)

jaydawg, i use a water level or a laser to get my post height. then mark the notch with what ever the beam will be 2x10 or 12. i have a prazi beam cutter i use for the post and notch. you can do it with a circular saw and recip also. i also use a 2x4 longer than the post to get my post height. that way i can mark the 6x6 on the saw horses and cut it on the ground instead of in the air.


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## no1hustler (Nov 17, 2010)

It looks pretty good. I can't tell from the pictures, is there an overhang with the stair treads?


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

Looks nice.

Wouldnt pass here for several reasons. _*Built up*_ beam must be sitting on top of post or in notch. Rail posts must be full size (no notch to fit it over joist). No footers for stairs. No graspable handrail.

But it looks nice.


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

no1hustler said:


> It looks pretty good. I can't tell from the pictures, is there an overhang with the stair treads?


There is a slight lip, which I don't like, but they first wanted the stairs open, with no risers, then after it was done they wanted the risers. So I had to move them all forward an inch to allow for the riser and still have a wide tread.


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

12penny said:


> Looks nice.
> 
> Wouldnt pass here for several reasons. _*Built up*_ beam must be sitting on top of post or in notch. Rail posts must be full size (no notch to fit it over joist). No footers for stairs. No graspable handrail.
> 
> But it looks nice.


I'll keep that in mind. In my buddies development, all of his neighbors decks use the post and girder system that I used. I'm going to use the built up beam and notched post for now on, I really like the way that looks and it's definitely more structurally sound. As far as the steps... I'm not at all happy with them, but he wants to build a lower deck later in the year or next year so I can correct what I don't like then. In fact, I'll probably have to completely rebuild them because there's no way that the rise will come out right. For now, I'm confident that the stairs are safe. They don't consider a 2x4 a gripable hand rail where you're from?


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## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

Very nice work. As an engineer I have to say I agree with some of the comments on construction technique, not that I could have done any better I just can't help but look at every structure from an engineer persepctive and search for potential points of failure (just ask my dad about the swingset that I helped him build for my niece, a hurricane my tear the house down but that swingset will still be there, LOL). Did your buddy not have to get a building permit and submit plans for the deck? I only ask because I know the rules for decks are different from place to place and I had a buddy build a deck sans plans/permit and it caused some insurance problems along the way if I remember correctly. There is actually a lot of science behind woodframe construction like this, many engineers when studying for their master's degree in construction management or architecture or other similar disciplines have to take master's level courses in woodframe construction, blew my mind when I saw it in the course catatlog!


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

jaydawg74 said:


> I'll keep that in mind. In my buddies development, all of his neighbors decks use the post and girder system that I used. I'm going to use the built up beam and notched post for now on, I really like the way that looks and it's definitely more structurally sound. As far as the steps... I'm not at all happy with them, but he wants to build a lower deck later in the year or next year so I can correct what I don't like then. In fact, I'll probably have to completely rebuild them because there's no way that the rise will come out right. For now, I'm confident that the stairs are safe.* They don't consider a 2x4 a gripable hand rail where you're from?*


No they dont because for a small child or your elderly mother in law it isnt graspable.

ETA...let us know how the inspection goes.


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

Yes, he got a permit. I made it clear I won't do it without a permit. We followed the plans. He hasn't gotten his final inspection yet, I ask him every time I see him lol. I'm interested in what they say.


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

12penny said:


> No they dont because for a small child or your elderly mother in law it isnt graspable.
> 
> ETA...let us know how the inspection goes.


But..... do you really WANT your mother in law to grasp it? :laughing:

If the rail doesn't pass code here, I think I have a pretty good solution. I'll add a post half way up, get some galvanized plumbing pipe, make some small "L" brackets with the pipe affix it to the 2x4.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

Like this?


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## jaydawg74 (Nov 24, 2011)

Exactamundo!


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