# Ceruse (or pickling/white lead) finish



## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

I saw this ceruse technique on million dollar contractor and am thinking about doing it for my wine cabinet. It's very hard to find a lot of information on so I had a couple if questions. Theres several techniques but I think the most simple is to sand the piece, then use a wire brush along with the grain. Next you apply a light coat of thinned white latex paint. After it's dry you sand lightly until only the grain is white still. Then apply your stain of choice. 

Does this seem right? I want to make sure I understand the process before I try a test piece. 

For latex paint you thin with water correct? 

For the stain afterwards do you have to use latex since it was latex paint you used? Or is oil based stain fine since the paint is dry? 

Also does this have different effects on oak ply then solid oak? I'm using red oak for my cabinet with oak plywood for the side inserts, door inserts, bottom, back, and shelves. 

Thanks for any info or help. I included a couple of pictures to help clarify the effect I'm after.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Dwillems26 said:


> I saw this ceruse technique on million dollar contractor and am thinking about doing it for my wine cabinet. It's very hard to find a lot of information on so I had a couple if questions. Theres several techniques but I think the most simple is to sand the piece, then use a wire brush along with the grain. Next you apply a light coat of thinned white latex paint. After it's dry you sand lightly until only the grain is white still. Then apply your stain of choice.
> 
> Does this seem right? I want to make sure I understand the process before I try a test piece.
> 
> ...


Actually your doing more of a limed finish than a true ceruse' finish. There are many different ways to accomplish this, it has been around since the early part of the last century and maybe before in some instances if you want to include faked antiques. 

that said, some of the most common ways the factories used was to stain the wood the color they wanted, seal it in a couple of coats, and then apply the pigmented filler/ colored plaster/ heavily pigmented oil stain or japan/ distemper color made up with water and a small amount of glue/ cabinet makers cement and pigment/ pigmented alkyd enamels, or others. Depending on whether here or Europe, and at what time frame. 

After the filler had set up [depending on the type], the excess would be either sanded off or wiped off and then sanded again with fine paper to remove any last color traces from the surfaces. 

Then the compatible clear coats were applied over this till the affect was achieved. 

As to your preparation of the wood, always wire brush before sanding to maintain the crisp pore edges as much as possible If the pores fill with sanding dust then blow the dust out or at least vacuum it out. This will give you the best professional look. And make sure you sand it dead flat smooth also. 

Although I'm sure latex or oil base paint and a host of other pigmented finishes will work, i would personally choose something that is totally compatible with the rest of the finishing system i chose to use. It's not wise to mix anymore differing kinds of materials than is absolutely necessary. 

For example my schedule for a lacquer limed look would be:

1 Apply a dye of the color brown desired, let dry.
2 apply 2 coats of 50/50 sanding sealer, let dry in between coats and sand lightly with 320 and cork block.
3 apply another 50/50 coat of gloss lacquer, let dry.
4 apply my liming pigment mix, [ i used natural filler and flake white japan color for mine mostly]
5 remove excess filler with burlap across grain not with it. then follow with a fresh piece of burlap to insure as much removal as possible.
6 let dry 4 hours minimum, better if over night.
7 sand the clear with 320 wet or dry, wipe clean with paper towels or cotton cloths.
8 spray the second coat of gloss lacquer, let dry.
9 build with as many coats as wanted or needed.
10 sand 320 and final coat with whatever desired sheen you need or like.

Lastly, yes.. it will look different on plywood veneer than on solids, mostly due to the difference in grain figure. Also keep in mind that if using oak you will possibly run into quarter sawn flake areas and would not want that to be on any of the face areas.


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## 27207 (Jan 25, 2012)

Wow, I did not know the true ceruse was so in depth. I very much appreciate that great info. Unfortunately as a newbie I don't think ill be going that route anymore with this project. But thank you again, I do love that look so I'll start having to try it out on some scrap to get the hang of it. Then down the road when my projects continue getting better I'll give it a shot. I'm nervous too that if I do try it on this it's going to look like crap with the plywood, and I don't want to fix this big of a project or turn it into firewood lol.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Dwillems26 said:


> Wow, I did not know the true ceruse was so in depth. I very much appreciate that great info. Unfortunately as a newbie I don't think ill be going that route anymore with this project. But thank you again, I do love that look so I'll start having to try it out on some scrap to get the hang of it. Then down the road when my projects continue getting better I'll give it a shot. I'm nervous too that if I do try it on this it's going to look like crap with the plywood, and I don't want to fix this big of a project or turn it into firewood lol.


LOL, well....a true "ceruse'" can only be done with lead carbonate that most people could not get anyway except in the conservation field. It may seem hard but with a little practice anyone can do it, the "limed" finish that is. try it on some samples when you have time and good luck with your projects.


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