# Air drying lumber



## Chippin-in (Feb 4, 2010)

Since I have been neglectful in building my kiln (I have the plans, just haven’t got to it yet – room is an issue) I have questions.

If you are going to air dry lumber is it preferable to store the wood inside or outside? Or does it matter? 

I have a garage (cement slab) in the country that I can stack the wood in or I can stack it outside. I have room for the kiln there also, but I am unable to maintain and check it daily, maybe every 2 weeks or monthly. I understand that I could run a drain hose outside the kiln to drain water, but is that ok if I can only get there occasionally?

I’m sure the humidity in the air is factor and there is a high humidity percentage in the Houston area (1000% it feels like..lol). So how does this affect the air drying process? Enclosed space vs. open space?

Thanks for any insight you can give,
Robert


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

You are going to have to let the moisture out of the garage somehow if it is sealed tight air drying. I prefer inside, but I have a really breezy tin shed with plenty of room (well part of the time). And I am out there most days with all the doors open. If you want to air dry it in the garage you probably need a fan(s) on the stacks too.

Here is some reading about outside air drying. http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr117.pdf








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## Chippin-in (Feb 4, 2010)

Thanks Daren. 

The other option of using a drain hose from the kiln instead of the container: Is that a viable option if I cant check it on a regular basis (once a day or at least several times a week)? Like I mentioned only every two weeks maybe.

Thanks,
Robert


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Chippin-in said:


> Like I mentioned only every two weeks maybe.


A load of 4/4 (MOST species) that has already been air dried is probably not even going to take 2 weeks to finish kiln drying...so walking away from it for so long I don't know about.




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## Chippin-in (Feb 4, 2010)

So as far as stickers go, will plywood work or are there certain species that should be used so as to limit staining?


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

I have never used ply, so I cannot advise.(but it doesn't sound great to me) I use cottonwood/pine mostly, some silver maple. I also use 1" thick stickers, 3/4" would be a minimum thickness I would tell anyone to use. The debate on stickers goes way back, some say only sticker with the same species. Some say they have to be dried, some sticker with mill scraps from the same log as they go. Just don't use darker wood to sticker lighter wood. And oak does not make good stickers, it will stain the wet wood with tannic acid. You never mentioned in this thread what you are trying to dry, you may not have any worries...or if it is a difficult species you may have more than just sticker stain to deal with.


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

Darren, have you found this to be true? I sawed for a man for a number of years that had a W.O. export company and had three large kilns going. He told me that you should always place the first and last sticker as close to the end of the board as possible. He said lumber will generally only check up to the sticker. I am sure that there are exceptions to this but I have noticed that it seems to work.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Yes, exactly what you said. I always sticker at the very ends, now. I have seen checks run to the sticker and stop if they are in 6"-8" from the end.


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## Chippin-in (Feb 4, 2010)

Right now it will prolly be ash and pecan. Cottonwood, Hackberry and possibly Mulberry in the future.

I have some old 3/4 cdx plywood that I was thinking about cutting for stickers. Trying to save money where I can, you know.

I think I know the answer to this, but I'm askin anyway. I have another sheet of PW that was painted as realtor sign. Would the paint cause problems in the drying process? I'm sure no one has ever used painted stickers, just thought I would ask.

I guess I could just try it, screw up a bunch of wood and then report back with my findings :laughing:.


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