# Denatured Alcohol -vs- Paint Thinner



## GAF

I use denatured alcohol after sanding at any stage of refinishing in order to clean up residual sanding dust. It would be helpful to have some feedback on using paint thinner / mineral spirits instead. 

Thanks.

Gary


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## cabinetman

GAF said:


> I use denatured alcohol after sanding at any stage of refinishing in order to clean up residual sanding dust. It would be helpful to have some feedback on using paint thinner / mineral spirits instead.
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> Thanks.
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> Gary


I don't use either, but MS is petroleum based it can leave an oily residue/film. I prefer to blow off in an area away from finishing, and if wiping to use a dry tack cloth, not the sticky kind.








 







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## Leo G

Blow it off or vacuum it off. DNA should work as well as Acetone.


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## Dominick

I'm a big fan of denatured alcohol. It dries fast with no staining or raising the grain.


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## Steve Neul

I also just use compressed air. No need to waste chemicals on dust.


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## GAF

cabinetman said:


> I don't use either, but MS is petroleum based it can leave an oily residue/film. I prefer to blow off in an area away from finishing, and if wiping to use a dry tack cloth, not the sticky kind.
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Cabinetman, thanks for the advice. I may try this if I can isolate an area in which I can blow off the dust.

Gary


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## Fred Hargis

I generally use paint thinner/MS. It can leave behind a residue but it shouldn't be a problem if your finish is otherwise MS compatible. I would use alcohol because it drys faster, but the MS is cheaper. Doesn't really take much, I spray it on a cloth and wipe the wood down. If I want to preview the finish, I'll spray it on the wood. To be honest, I usually blow dust off at lower pressures, and that will leave some behind. The vacuum does a better job if you can get into all the nook and crannies.


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## HowardAcheson

It depends on the finish. Alcohol can damage a new waterborne finish or lacquer finish. Acetone also has the potential to damage a waterborne finish.

IMO, the best way to deal with sanding dust is to vacuum off the dust. Only prior to the final coat is it necessary to go further and wipe the surface down. I recommend using a rag lightly dampened with mineral spirits being sure to allow it to fully evaporate before applying the last coat. For waterbornes, wipe with a lightly water dampened cloth.

If good mineral spirits or paint thinner is used there is little danger from the minute amount of residue that may remain. I have never seen a case where residue affected the adhesion of the finish.


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## Leo G

I only use my hand and air when I get rid of the dust on any of my finishes.


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## cabinetman

Leo G said:


> I only use my hand and air when I get rid of the dust on any of my finishes.


+1.:yes:









 







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## Leo G

But I also have a nice spray room with a huge fan to pull the dust away as it's blown into the air.


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## GAF

Fred Hargis said:


> I generally use paint thinner/MS. It can leave behind a residue but it shouldn't be a problem if your finish is otherwise MS compatible. I would use alcohol because it drys faster, but the MS is cheaper. Doesn't really take much, I spray it on a cloth and wipe the wood down. If I want to preview the finish, I'll spray it on the wood. To be honest, I usually blow dust off at lower pressures, and that will leave some behind. The vacuum does a better job if you can get into all the nook and crannies.


Fred, thanks for the feedback. I have been using denatured alcohol because it flashes off so quickly. But it sound like MS is an option too. Also, I have been soaking a rag rather than spraying it on so that could make a big difference in my consumption.

Gary


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## GAF

HowardAcheson said:


> It depends on the finish. Alcohol can damage a new waterborne finish or lacquer finish. Acetone also has the potential to damage a waterborne finish.
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> IMO, the best way to deal with sanding dust is to vacuum off the dust. Only prior to the final coat is it necessary to go further and wipe the surface down. I recommend using a rag lightly dampened with mineral spirits being sure to allow it to fully evaporate before applying the last coat. For waterbornes, wipe with a lightly water dampened cloth.
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> If good mineral spirits or paint thinner is used there is little danger from the minute amount of residue that may remain. I have never seen a case where residue affected the adhesion of the finish.


Howard, thank you. I don't used waterborne finishes so that will not be an issue for me. But I like the idea of vacuuming in general and wiping down only for the final coat. That will save me some time.

Gary


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## cabinetman

GAF said:


> I don't used waterborne finishes so that will not be an issue for me.
> Gary



Why not?









 







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## HowardAcheson

>>>> I only use my hand and air when I get rid of the dust on any of my finishes

The reason I don't like using air is that the last thing you want if you are about to finish is to have sawdust laden air floating around the finishing area. I do everything I can to minimize airborne dust. 

In the shop I owned, the finishers would sometimes blow off items but they would do it in the paint both so it was captured by the filters


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## cabinetman

HowardAcheson said:


> >>>> I only use my hand and air when I get rid of the dust on any of my finishes
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> The reason I don't like using air is that the last thing you want if you are about to finish is to have sawdust laden air floating around the finishing area. I do everything I can to minimize airborne dust.
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> In the shop I owned, the finishers would sometimes blow off items but they would do it in the paint both so it was captured by the filters


The idea is not do it in the finishing area. A damp rag with a solvent doesn't remove fine dust, but can make it stick to the surface. 








 







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## Leo G

But I do have a booth, and I said that I did.


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## cabinetman

Leo G said:


> But I do have a booth, and I said that I did.


You are among the lucky ones.:yes:









 







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## GAF

cabinetman said:


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Cabinetman, I don't use waterborne top coating simply out of habit. I started learning with oil based products and simply stuck to that.

Gary


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