# Paul Sellers Wall Clock



## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

Let me know if I'm boring you all with my newbie projects! I figured this was probably the most entry-level project in Paul's book, so this is where I'm starting. 

First, a little backstory: About a year ago, my father-in-law came over one day and for no reason, and without asking anyone, just decided he was going to hang a clock in our kitchen. Just grabbed a hammer and nail, and put up a clock. It was one of those heinous digital clocks that also tells temperature and stuff. It's been a sore spot for me and I threatened to take it down many times, but the wife didn't want to hurt her dad's feelings. Whatever. Anyway, she accidentally knocked it off the wall and broke it last week. Sweet, sweet karma. I said the only way another clock was going back up was if it was one I made. So here I am, making a clock.

*Pic 1*
Not a big fan of oak, but it's what we have in our kitchen, so oak it is. Here I've got my stock cut to rough length and width. The panel will be cut to fit after all of this is assembled.

*Pic 2*
Truing up the ends on my newly made shooting board. This was after planing up the other surfaces to final dimensions.

*Pic 3*
Laying out the joinery and labeling where I want everything to go.

A question for anyone who has built clocks before: where is a good source for clock inserts? This will probably take a 3" diameter insert. I've found a few sites, but nothing really jumps out at me.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Anthony, I ordered a replacement movement from this supplier. worked well for me, fast, knowledgeable, quality, price.https://www.clockparts.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjws8vaBRBFEiwAQfhs-GrP5Ka2dywdDJgFLeTG1vaF998kQminjZA7XmC3ychN8nWcXyYUIBoCTRYQAvD_BwE


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Anthony, by the way I'm interested in your new project, keep your pictures coming.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Anthony, I ordered a replacement movement from this supplier. worked well for me, fast, knowledgeable, quality, price.https://www.clockparts.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjws8vaBRBFEiwAQfhs-GrP5Ka2dywdDJgFLeTG1vaF998kQminjZA7XmC3ychN8nWcXyYUIBoCTRYQAvD_BwE


This supplier also has clock movements that adjust automatically to daylight savings times.


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## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

Is your shooting adjustable so it can go to another angle? (Maybe 45*) Your clock is going to look nice. I use to make a lot of clocks but haven't made one in several years.

Yes, we need lots of pictures. I would like to follow you making this clock.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

hawkeye10 said:


> Is your shooting adjustable so it can go to another angle? (Maybe 45*)


The top fence is adjustable in case it goes out of square. See *Pic #1* for how a speed square can be used for 45's. I found the plans for this shooting board online - I'll have to see if I can find my paper copy to look up where it came from, I can't remember. 

*Pic #2*
Running grooves to accept the panel with a plough plane. Here, I'm using the Sellers "clamp in vise" method to hold the piece. Can't really tell from the pic, but this is a Harbor Freight clamp that has been retrofitted - there's a piece of wood running the full length of the bar, so it's rock solid.

The 3/8" cutter was in bad shape - it took me a good hour to get it tuned up and sharp because I had to regrind the bevel. Because oak is so hard, there was a lot of adjusting for cutter depth to get a good shaving. Lots of lessons learned about the use of a plough plane this morning.

Up next, I'll do a dry assembly so that I can fit the two crossrails and add stub tenons. Considering the massive tenons I just completed for my workbench, this will be child's play.

*Pic #3*
This is the clock face I decided on. There's a very distinctive craftsman/mission look to the font, which is what I was hoping to find.


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Woodcraft or Klockit are good sources. I'm also interested in your project as I'm in the planning stages of a clock or two.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

*Pic #1*
A dry fit so that I can get some measurements for the crossrails. Here you can also see the "Poor Man's Beading Tool," which is just a slotted wood screw and a piece of wood. I still need to work the roundover of the bead, but you can see the grooves here.

*Pic #2*
Using a bench hook along with a holdfast to cut the tenons with a pull saw. One of these days, I need to get a western-style saw.

*Pic #3*
The crossrail tenons ride in the same groove as the panel. With this buttoned up, there's no more joinery on this project.

Next, I'll measure and cut the panel to fit, then chamfer the edges so the panel floats in the grooves - kind of like a mini cabinet door.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

If you rotate the bench hook so that the lower lip drops into the tool well, the pull saw will probably work better. The work will be a little closer to you, which makes pulling it towards you easier, and the pull saw will push it into the fence the way a push saw does when it's set up as you have it now.

I highly recommend looking for a beading plane... I find they show up at antique stores pretty frequently, and I now have three or four of them. They're a joy to use, and look nicer on the shelf than the sharpened screw version. It's a nice thing to have!


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## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

AmishElectricCo said:


> *Pic #1*
> A dry fit so that I can get some measurements for the crossrails. Here you can also see the "Poor Man's Beading Tool," which is just a slotted wood screw and a piece of wood. I still need to work the roundover of the bead, but you can see the grooves here.
> 
> *Pic #2*
> ...


Anthony, you are coming right along with your clock. Your clock looks somewhat like a clock I made some years ago. Unlike yours, mine wasn't made with hand tools. I made 5 of these clocks, one for each of my four daughters and one for my wife and I.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

amckenzie4 said:


> I highly recommend looking for a beading plane... I find they show up at antique stores pretty frequently, and I now have three or four of them. They're a joy to use, and look nicer on the shelf than the sharpened screw version. It's a nice thing to have!


I'll definitely add a beading plane to my short list. I had my doubts about using the "Poor Man's" version considering this was oak, but it did the trick. Not something I'd consider a long term solution, though. Makes for a good teaching tool, but I doubt Paul Sellers uses this thing in his professional work.



hawkeye10 said:


> Anthony, you are coming right along with your clock. Your clock looks somewhat like a clock I made some years ago. Unlike yours, mine wasn't made with hand tools. I made 5 of these clocks, one for each of my four daughters and one for my wife and I.


Very nice clock, Don! I definitely want to make more clocks and move into more complicated designs as my skills progress. I really like the mission, prairie, and Greene & Greene styles.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Don, very nice! It wouldn't match my decor at home, but it's beautifully done.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

Got the panel fitted tonight. I went with the "pillow" chamfer that has soft edges instead of a typical panel with hard edges. The clock face I ordered is 3" and the panel is only about 6" wide. I figured it would look goofy with hard edges. I selected this section of oak for the panel at the beginning, and did the other layout around it. It has a nice grain pattern.

I'll work on getting the bead finished tomorrow.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

great project! looking forward to your door design. going with a pendulum? I like to use merritts for parts.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Nice work Anthony, Bet your lovin your new bench.

You can bead by shaping and sharpening a piece of that Stanley max saw blade you tossed. I did that once to make a profile into white oak, and I know what you mean...it takes some effort, but it does work, and works well when scraping in the direction of rising grain (not so good against the grain). https://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/07/31/how-to-make-a-scratch-stock


Or use a beading bit in your router.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Looking good so far!


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

No pendulum on this one, maybe the next! 



gmercer_48083 said:


> Bet your lovin your new bench.


I baptized it with a dent already. Apparently I need my eyes checked, because that's the second time I've gotten wild with a mallet. This time, I completely missed a holdfast. Oh well, it's a bench. It's not going to stay pretty forever.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

OH my! you can raise must dents by filling with water, let soak 5 minutes, then damp rag over the dent and iron (no steam setting) hi temp. The dent just may disappear.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Dents are how you know a workbench is being used! At least you can stop worrying about when you're going to put the first mark on it.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

Light duty tonight...

Finished up the beads by first rounding over with 80 grit, then 120. Next, I ran my tenon saw through the groove a few times to make it deeper and add definition. Then went over the entire piece with 220.

I used my Dewalt palm router with a 3/8" roundover bit on a test piece and got some burn marks. I didn't really care for the look anyway. Next time, I'll try a 45° chamfer.

Bought some Mission Oak stain, but I'm having second thoughts. I kind of want to keep it this natural color, and either semi-gloss or flat. Decisions, decisions. Hopefully the clock insert will get here this week, then I can see how the whole thing pulls together.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

Okay, NOW it's a clock!

As you can see, my clock insert came in the mail today. Used a 3" hole saw and it fits like a glove. One day I'll get a nice coping saw so I can do this by hand. Not a fan of using hole saws.

Decided to do the roundover with my palm router on the top and bottom after all. Not a full bullnose, just one edge. Any suggestions on how to get the burn marks out would be appreciated. 

Finally, after looking at stains and finishes for over an hour tonight, I decided to keep it simple and went with Danish Oil. Did a test piece and it came out a nice light brown color with a satin glow. Just what the doctor ordered.


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## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

Looks great Anthony, but I knew it would. Now you will never be late again. :vs_cool: :smile2:


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

hawkeye10 said:


> Now you will never be late again. :vs_cool: :smile2:


The whole family will be glad when this is done. We catch each other looking up at the nail in the wall where the old clock used to be all the time. I've even caught myself doing it, and I hated that old clock LOL!


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Beautiful work Anthony, Have you used hand scrapers? They are a little difficult to sharpen (turn the burr), but they can be used in difficult situations, and give you better results quicker than sandpaper.


You gave me the itch in regards of a bead plane. I am now in the planning stage, and I am going to make a pair of 1/4" wooden bead plane for my next project. It will be a side escapement type...one for each direction (to plane to the left/right) with the grain. I may possibly use bi metal sawzall blades for the irons. But for right now still thinking about the possibilities. I can see myself using a bead plane often, and figured why not?


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Beautiful work Anthony, Have you used hand scrapers? They are a little difficult to sharpen (turn the burr), but they can be used in difficult situations, and give you better results quicker than sandpaper.
> 
> 
> You gave me the itch in regards of a bead plane. I am now in the planning stage, and I am going to make a pair of 1/4" wooden bead plane for my next project. It will be a side escapement type...one for each direction (to plane to the left/right) with the grain. I may possibly use bi metal sawzall blades for the irons. But for right now still thinking about the possibilities. I can see myself using a bead plane often, and figured why not?


Lie Nielsen has tapered moulding plane irons if you're going to try making your own. I've thought about buying some, but I really don't have the time to start making moulding planes right now.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Andy, So far I have made around 15 hand planes. None have needed tapered irons, most have used 1/8" precision ground "Starret" O1 steel...All shaped and fitted, hardened and annealed by me. One of my favorites is one that is about 5" long and uses a bi metal sawzall blade for the iron, that is 1/2" wide. A bead plane is basically a rebate plane with a radius cut along the sole. it uses a narrow piece of boxwood to support the quirk (pointed part) of the iron while guiding it along the quirk (groove) of the bead.


Sorry Anthony, I don't mean to detract from your Clock posting.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Beautiful work Anthony, Have you used hand scrapers? They are a little difficult to sharpen (turn the burr), but they can be used in difficult situations, and give you better results quicker than sandpaper.


I've used a scraper a few times, so I'll give it a shot. I just worry about this application since it's a curved surface.

As for your beading planes - any chance you'd price out making a 3rd? I know someone who would be interested in one! :vs_cool:


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

looks nice Anthony! what a great project, and you get to look at the finished item daily!


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

AmishElectricCo said:


> I've used a scraper a few times, so I'll give it a shot. I just worry about this application since it's a curved surface.
> 
> As for your beading planes - any chance you'd price out making a 3rd? I know someone who would be interested in one! :vs_cool:



Burn some scrap wood with your router again, to test your skill first before you do your good stuff...and you will know how to proceed.


As far as the bead plane, I am still in the planning stage. Once I am convinced of my plan using sketchup, I will make a pair (left and right hand) and I will document and photograph for everyone to see. Once I have the drawings done I can see if I have all the tools to make them. That's how I roll. It may be a couple weeks before I can start.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

Finished project. Added two coats of Danish Oil and this one is a done deal.

This was a fun build! Took me about a week, and part of that was waiting on supplies. I could probably knock one out in a few days, and with the low cost (about $40) in materials, would make a nice gift.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Anthony, Beautiful clock, nice choice for the finish...I enjoyed your documented build. Don't forget to enter this build in your personal journal.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

Gonna build another clock. 

There won't be any build pics this time, since it's the same project. I found this piece of Rainbow Poplar today and thought it would make a neat looking clock. 

I came across this modern blue face when I was looking for a clock insert for the first build, so I ordered it for this one.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

Got all pieces cut to width and rough length, so I figured I'd share the mock-up. I used about every inch of that board to make sure I got the most out of the figuring. I _should_ be able to cut the center panel so the stripe in the middle is centered instead of diagonal. Hopefully there's enough wiggle room.

Anyway, see ya in about a week with the finished product!


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

Dang thats some beautiful wood!! (the poplar I mean)
Loved the clock and the way you document your work. Please keep on sharing your work with us.

Ok now you should build an ugly clock, go to the inlaws, hammer a nail in their wall and hang the ugly clock on it. Then stand back and present it as your finest piece ever.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Mikhail2400 said:


> Dang thats some beautiful wood!! (the poplar I mean)
> Loved the clock and the way you document your work. Please keep on sharing your work with us.
> 
> Ok now you should build an ugly clock, go to the inlaws, hammer a nail in their wall and hang the ugly clock on it. Then stand back and present it as your finest piece ever.


That's funny!


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

*Here it is...*

6 coats of satin polycrylic finished off this project. I went with a water-based finish to prevent the poplar from yellowing, yet bring out the other colors. Sanded between each coat with 220 grit.

The wife and kids laughed at me when the blue clock face came in the mail, but I knew I'd prove them wrong in the end. Sadly, the photo doesn't show the full spectrum of color in the rainbow poplar. There are subtle blues, greens, and purples and the blue face really makes them pop. The rainbow also has...a sheen. I don't know how to describe it, really. It's almost like there's glitter embedded in the wood.

I decided not to cut the panel so the stripe ran parallel. I thought it looked fake and manufactured. This way is more visually interesting.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Anthony, Your wood selection and layout for this clock is awesome. Beautifully done!


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

What a knockout piece! I didn't like the colors in poplar before, but then you showed me this. Now I have to rethink what I can do with poplar. Well done indeed!


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

WOW!! That really turned out great. I knew that wood was going to look good but i wasnt expecting it to stand out like that. Great job bud. Hope I can do half as well on my stuff. May the day soon.come when I actually get started.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

Boring boring boring.. You should only post extremely exciting stuff.. 
I'm kidding.. You're fine and if someone does feel bored that's their problem and extraordinarily irrelevant. You do nice work.


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## Onefreetexan (May 3, 2018)

Both your clocks are very nice looking,,....My only question is why did you make the clock so much taller than needed for that size clock face?


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Onefreetexan said:


> Both your clocks are very nice looking,,....My only question is why did you make the clock so much taller than needed for that size clock face?


This is a "Paul Sellers" designed clock. He has made furniture for Presidents, and is known worldwide for his work.


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

Here is the latest: #003.
Cherry and maple. Cherry was has a walnut stain.

The original plan was to use walnut for this build. I bought a rough sawn board at the local farmer's market last year for $12 - but it had some crazy grain that couldn't be planed in the same direction. I got several cherry boards from another farmer who had the stuff sitting in his hay loft for the last 20 years, so I dove into that stash for this project.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Anthony, I take it your #80 scraper wouldn't smooth the wild grain. Nice clock!


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## AmishElectricCo (Jan 3, 2018)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Anthony, I take it your #80 scraper wouldn't smooth the wild grain. Nice clock!


I sunk hours and hours into trying to get that board smooth. There was tearout no matter what I did. I found the attached pic online - the whole board was similar to this - it's like it was one giant knot.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

That's too bad. It would have made a nice background.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Did you try sanding it smooth?

Sanding usually does not lift the grain like a cutting edge does.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Tony B said:


> Did you try sanding it smooth?
> 
> Sanding usually does not lift the grain like a cutting edge does.


Sanding that twisted grain would take a lot of patience ... or leave a lot of cross-grain scratches. 

Such a beautiful piece of wood.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Random orbit sanders wont leave much in the way of cross grain scratches.


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