# Padauk



## Tyler96 (Jan 29, 2013)

I'm making a basic segmented bowl with maple, mahogany, and padauk. When I sand the bowl, the red saw dust seems to stain the maple. What can I do to prevent this or remove it before I put on a finish?


----------



## BigJoe16 (Feb 20, 2012)

You can try rubbing with a clean rag damp with mineral spirits. This has worked good for me. I always do this before applying a finish. And sometimes inbetween finish sanding grits. I can get it smoother this way.


----------



## Tyler96 (Jan 29, 2013)

BigJoe16 said:


> You can try rubbing with a clean rag damp with mineral spirits. This has worked good for me. I always do this before applying a finish. And sometimes inbetween finish sanding grits. I can get it smoother this way.


I tried cleaning it with DNA and it made the whole bowl pink. Will mineral spirits do this too?


----------



## BigJoe16 (Feb 20, 2012)

Honestly, I don't know. I wouldn't think so but I haven't tried. I made a segmented bowl out of ash and sapele, and had the same sanding problem you did with the dust in the lighter colored wood, and it fixed it. I haven't used DNA


----------



## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

It's best to blow off the dust as best you can. Also try to sand lightly and blow it out often so you don't burnish it into the lighter woods.


----------



## Tambotie (Jan 7, 2012)

Hi To solve the problem in the future spray/brush on a sanding sealer or blond shellac when dry sand and keep checking that the dust is not staining the light color wood. Repeat until the desired finish is achieved. 

To clean the piece now wash with methylated spirits using a soft brush no cloth. This is going to take time as each wash is with clean spirits. Hope this helps Regards Roger


----------



## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

I went through that a few years ago. Padauk is not the best wood to put in segmented turning. It's very bright of course when freshly cut but changes pretty dramatically when exposed to UV light and will a dark burgundy in a few years. 
When contrasted with light woods like maple it works well even after aging. If you contrast it with something like walnut or cherry it will lose that contrast as it ages.
Now to your problem. The solution I found thanks to Phil Brennion the former AAW president. Spray thinned lacquer or sanding sealer on it before you ever start sanding. The wipe it off between grits and spray again, between every grit. The sanding sealer partially fills the grain and helps keep the sanding dust out. It also seems to make the grain depressions less likely to hold onto the dust. 
If you must wipe on a finish do it by blotting because rubbing will smear orange dust into the white and then it hardens in the grain making it really hard to remove.


----------



## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

My approach has been to make sure I do not skip a grade while sanding. I think this has more to do with the transfer of the orange dust getting into the sandingmarks. I start with 150, 180, 230, 320,400, & 600. Wiping between grades helps but do not skip a grade. I frequently laminate S & P mille as well as celtic knots. Remember when you look at the results of each sanding grade make sure you are satisfied there are not sanding scuffs or remaining tool marks before you start the next grade.
One more thing have a good light and inspect your work before you continue to sand. The first two grits are very important if I see I have red (red heart), orange left in the pours I am not doing a good job of sanding.


----------

