# redwood for turning???????



## dublinjohn (Dec 27, 2011)

Hi guys I'm pretty new to turning. I have recently come across a heap of large redwood branches and I am wondering if the are any use for turning, lamps and candle holders etc..... or would I be better off just burning it. Thanks in advance for any advice you guys have. Cheers.


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## wildwood (Jan 25, 2011)

*Have never turned Redwood would turn it if had some. If wet might cut into blanks, end seal and let it hang out awhile to air dry. Go for it!*


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## dublinjohn (Dec 27, 2011)

Cheers pal. Thanks for the advice. It was only cut down on Wednesday morning so I'll blank it up and get some p.v.a. on the end grain. Thanks.


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## bond3737 (Nov 13, 2009)

dont know about turning it but I know it smells great. We split alot of it at work and it can have some interesting patterns in it. Dark red striations and curlyness in some points. Depends on the how large they are. Also makes a great firewood but fresh split smells like a spicey cinnemon something or another. Anyway. Never seen it turned let us know how it goes!


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## dublinjohn (Dec 27, 2011)

Will do bond. Thanks for the advice. I'll stick up a couple of pics as soon as I have them. Cheers.


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## supershingler (Apr 28, 2009)

I have made a few things over the years out of redwood and was pleased with the results. Only issue i had was finishing it as it turns really dark when finish is applied.

I would think turning it you would have good results. It should turn nice and easy i wouldl say.

Any free wood is worth a try in my book

kendall


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## cabomhn (Jan 14, 2012)

I don't know if the guys at my local shop are 100% accurate or not but their view on redwood is that when it's wet it turns great, but as it dries thoroughly, it can become brittle and a little hard to finish.


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## JLTex (Sep 8, 2019)

Just turned my first redwood bowl. It was a kiln dried blank. Turned easily and the shear scrape smoothed it without a problem. It does retain some scratches from the prior grit, so hand sanding is necessary. I am wondering what finish to use. I am considering either micro crystalline wax or Tried and True Original formula. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I currently use Tried and True Original on turned bowls and like it as a food-safe finish. I just turned a rolling pin and finished it with Tried and True Original. Tried and True original is a food-safe linseed oil and beeswax, that's all. I use linseed oil for seasoning cast iron pans, and chefs use it in food (sometimes it is called "flaxseed oil"). 

I have watched other bowl turners finish with a chunk of pure beeswax or carnauba wax held up to the bowl surface while on the lathe, and then buffed to a shine. Some use steel wool to apply it. There are important safety rules to keep in mind if using a cloth to buff - very small bits only. You don't want to injure or lose a finger!

Micro-crystalline wax (e.g. Renaissance Wax) is more of a personal judgement call. Like paraffin, it has petroleum components. It might be worth your time to read the MSDS sheet for your wax. Mineral oil (another petroleum product) is often used for cutting boards and food-use utensils. Personally, I would choose beeswax or carnauba wax over micro-crystalline wax.


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## JLTex (Sep 8, 2019)

Tool Agnostic said:


> I currently use Tried and True Original on turned bowls and like it as a food-safe finish. I just turned a rolling pin and finished it with Tried and True Original. Tried and True original is a food-safe linseed oil and beeswax, that's all. I use linseed oil for seasoning cast iron pans, and chefs use it in food (sometimes it is called "flaxseed oil").
> 
> I have watched other bowl turners finish with a chunk of pure beeswax or carnauba wax held up to the bowl surface while on the lathe, and then buffed to a shine. Some use steel wool to apply it. There are important safety rules to keep in mind if using a cloth to buff - very small bits only. You don't want to injure or lose a finger!
> 
> Micro-crystalline wax (e.g. Renaissance Wax) is more of a personal judgement call. Like paraffin, it has petroleum components. It might be worth your time to read the MSDS sheet for your wax. Mineral oil (another petroleum product) is often used for cutting boards and food-use utensils. Personally, I would choose beeswax or carnauba wax over micro-crystalline wax.


I use Tried and True for all my bowls if they are to be used for food. This bowl will be a decorative piece and not intended for food use. I am safety aware at all times. I agree with your suggestion on small pieces of rags. I cut my rags into small squares so I can control them. Also I adjust my lathe so that it is turning at about 250 RPM's. I don't use steel wool because of the possibility of small particles of steel in the finish. I use 3M gray pads for buffing. Thanks for your suggestions and interest.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

I have looked several places on line for a guide to the "turnability" of various species of wood. I have some nice looking air dried Red Elm, that is horrible to turn and sand. Yet the American Elm I have had was a little soft, but great.


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## Per_Dan (Mar 21, 2021)

Tool Agnostic said:


> I currently use Tried and True Original on turned bowls and like it as a food-safe finish. I just turned a rolling pin and finished it with Tried and True Original. Tried and True original is a food-safe linseed oil and beeswax, that's all. I use linseed oil for seasoning cast iron pans, and chefs use it in food (sometimes it is called "flaxseed oil").
> 
> I have watched other bowl turners finish with a chunk of pure beeswax or carnauba wax held up to the bowl surface while on the lathe, and then buffed to a shine. Some use steel wool to apply it. There are important safety rules to keep in mind if using a cloth to buff - very small bits only. You don't want to injure or lose a finger!
> 
> Micro-crystalline wax (e.g. Renaissance Wax) is more of a personal judgement call. Like paraffin, it has petroleum components. It might be worth your time to read the MSDS sheet for your wax. Mineral oil (another petroleum product) is often used for cutting boards and food-use utensils. Personally, I would choose beeswax or carnauba wax over micro-crystalline wax.


Sounds good


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