# Red Oak Stair Treads...Is that sap?!?



## HLucia (Feb 28, 2013)

Hello, 
I bought red oak stair treads from one of the big box stores. They came sanded to a 150 grit finish. I sanded them to a 220 grit finish then stained them with oil-based stain. I did two coats of stain and as it was drying noticed that there are small wet spots on the wood. It looks to me like sap as it is coming from the darker grains of the wood-if that makes sense. What can I do about this? I want to make sure the boards are completely dry before the poly goes on as I don't want issues with the poly adhering to the boards. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Heather


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

I've used and stainned red oak stair treads. There shouldn't be any sap in them. Oak is not a sappy wood. Could it be your that the stain has not dried? Can you snap a pic to give us a better idea?


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## Kahlua (Dec 6, 2012)

Oil based.. If you put on enough it should absorb all the way through.


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## HLucia (Feb 28, 2013)

Thanks for the quick responses! 

The last coat of stain was done on Monday (been drying for about 60 hours in temps from 60-70, not sure about humidity) excess stain was rubbed off thoroughly, seems like it should be dry by now? I can take a picture when I get home, not sure how well the spots will show up but I'll give it a go.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

The pores, the vessels penetrate the entire length of the wood (and the whole height of the tree.)
Your oil-base stain has been sucked way, way down inside the wood. Without exposure to air/oxygen, that stain will never set up/dry. The wood is going to drool stain for ages.


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## HLucia (Feb 28, 2013)

Robson Valley said:


> The pores, the vessels penetrate the entire length of the wood (and the whole height of the tree.)
> Your oil-base stain has been sucked way, way down inside the wood. Without exposure to air/oxygen, that stain will never set up/dry. The wood is going to drool stain for ages.


So what did I do wrong? And is there a way to fix it?


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## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

Robson Valley said:


> The pores, the vessels penetrate the entire length of the wood (and the whole height of the tree.)
> Your oil-base stain has been sucked way, way down inside the wood. Without exposure to air/oxygen, that stain will never set up/dry. The wood is going to drool stain for ages.


That sounds odd to me. I have stainned a fair amount of red oak including stair treads I just did and they came out great. 

You might try asking your question in the "finishing" forumn. some experts over there. I certainly am not.


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## HLucia (Feb 28, 2013)

Thanks, I will try that.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

If the stain was very liberally applied, capillary action will suck that stain far into the wood.
Any woods in the red oak (Quercus rubra and others) group, the hickories (Carya sp) and the Ashes (Fraxinus) need a paste pore filler. Dried, that is sanded back and you can do as you like.
The pores in the woods of the white oak group are naturally plugged with tyloses = waterproof.
While I know the wood anatomies, I do not know of any 'fix.'


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## HLucia (Feb 28, 2013)

I found someone who was in a similar situation on this thread: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/my-red-oak-bleeding-after-staining-14210/
Looks like I will try to continue to wipe, wait and hope for the best.


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## HLucia (Feb 28, 2013)

Good news, the boards have stopped leaking oil and appear to be dry. I will let them sit a bit longer before applying poly just to be safe. 
Thanks for your input!


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