# Johnson Paste Wax vs Minwax Wax



## craigwbryant (Jan 22, 2012)

So I'm putting the finishing touches on a table and I've decided I want to take my finishing techniques to a new level this time around and actually do a wax (in the past I've just done coats of polyurethane). My plan is to do 3-4 coats of minwax satin finish polyurethane (scuff sanded with 220 in between), then after the finl coat rub down with 0000 steel wool then wax. I just moved to a new area (Fort Hood, TX) so my supply sources are limited as I learn the new place, so yesterday when I picked up the poly, I saw that the home store only was carrying Minwax brand wax. Everyone always talks about using Johnson's paste wax. Is there a huge difference? Am I committing a massive foul if I use the Minwax brand wax?


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I've never used the Minwax wax so I can't comment on the comparison. If you are going to rub out a polyurethane finish I wouldn't sand it with any sandpaper coarser than 1500 grit. The scratches from 220 are too coarse for steel wool to take care of. 

If you are looking for a high gloss start with wet sanding with 1500 grit and go through 2000 grit and buff the finish with a 7" auto polisher with a lambswool bonnet using rubbing compound. Even steel wool is too coarse for this process.


----------



## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

I've used both over the years. I think the Johnsons is a bit harder, but not enough to see the difference. I found some liquid Minwax wax a long time ago and liked the way it applied and rubbed out. I found it was easier to apply a thin coat and thus rubbed off easier. I bought a can of Minwax dark wax, liquefied it in a double boiler set up, and then thinned it with mineral spirits so that it would stay a liquid at room temperature. I ended up filling a two liter bottle with the mix and had some extra in a small plastic pop bottle. I apply it with a clean rag or paper towels and buff it off with a random orbit polisher. Follow Steve's schedule for a smooth poly finish. I usually rub poly with a white non-woven pad on a 1/4 sheet sander and the liquid wax, followed by the lambs wool on the polisher.


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Wait, there's a difference between the two? I've never noticed one, both work the same to me. Something like briwax would be a little different, but the Johnson's and minwax I've never noticed a difference with.

I'd recommend against using steel wool on poly, I've done it before and it just looks like crap. Poly just doesn't polish well, generally what you get off the brush is the smoothest coat you'll get


----------



## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

*The big question....WHY?????*

WHY do you even use a satin (or even a semi-gloss) IF your going to "rub it out" anyway... That defeats the purpose AND you lose some beauty in the wood. When I go for the best figure and grain I (and according to some finish companies) use gloss as all my fill coats (yes it takes more BUT the depth you get) THEN the last coat is satin or semigloss. This gives you great depth and chatouancy and the last coat gives the final look. IF I'm rubbing a finish I normally use minwax finishing wax as the final coat AND I use scotchbrite pads as the applicator and scuffer at the same time. I've done several this way and it has it's pros and cons. difficult to repair if needed as I have one I've slowly worked at, water droplets got into/under the wax finish and marked severals spots. I think all and all I'd just hand rub my finish without waxing. repairs are easier to fix and it's tougher. There's a style (????) where you rub the last few/many coats of finish (usually thinned down) by hand using a scotchbrite type pad giving a satiny sheen or finer scotchbrite for more polish.


----------

