# Making a downdraft sanding box



## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Every time we sand anything at all we find that the dust is just too much to deal with and takes hours to clean the shop. So I decided a downdraft sanding box is needed. I've read how some say they don't work very well but I see plenty of how-to videos so someone must like them. Even if it only helped 25% it would be better but after building it and using it I can safely say it is catching at least 75% of the dust, if not more. 

So nothing new or secret here, just a video documentation of how I built mine plus the slightly entertaining value of watching us work with a 4x8 sheet in a small shop.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you have my deepest sympathies ....*

I struggled with a basement shop for years, it only had a 8ft ceiling. I always had to break down any 4 X 8's before I could bring them into the shop and onto the table saw. I swore I'd never have another shop in the basement ... and I didn't. Instead, my shop is now on the second floor, which isn't quite as bad, but humping heavy sheets up 15 stairs is NO fun what so ever. So, I still have to break up the large sheets down below... in the nice weather .... when ever that is.

So, after years of thinking about it and helping my good friend bring home a $!5,000 Holzher panel saw he stole for $500.00, I decides I needs one of those. :smile3: I ended up making mine from an old Craftsman radial arm saw, a 10 ft piece of 1/2" plywood, some skate board bearings and some 2" angle. Some 3 x 3" oak legs and an Oak frame holds it all up. I built it about 5 years ago and have only needed to use it a few times since, but I don't know why really. The big advantage is the foot print is only 10 ft long by about 5 ft wide. I can either rip or crosscut a full 4 X 8 ft sheet. I call it a dual axis panel saw since it does both X and Y cuts. It's the perfect thing for a small shop with limited space. You actually need about 18 to 20 ft of run to rip an 8 ft sheet with a table saw. :surprise2:

In lieu of a panel saw, you can use both a cross cut guide and a ripping guide with a circular saw to break down large sheets. Here's my version of a crosscut guide:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/4-x-8-panel-cross-cuts-10476/


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

I usually get the big box store to cut a sheet in half but that wasn't going to work on this project. It is rare for me to even buy sheet goods so it isn't often an issue. Your solution is definitely a good one!! 

Thanks! David


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## wickedsolo (Feb 17, 2017)

woodnthings said:


> I struggled with a basement shop for years, it only had a 8ft ceiling. I always had to break down any 4 X 8's before I could bring them into the shop and onto the table saw. I swore I'd never have another shop in the basement ... and I didn't. Instead, my shop is now on the second floor, which isn't quite as bad, but humping heavy sheets up 15 stairs is NO fun what so ever. So, I still have to break up the large sheets down below... in the nice weather .... when ever that is.
> 
> So, after years of thinking about it and helping my good friend bring home a $!5,000 Holzher panel saw he stole for $500.00, I decides I needs one of those. :smile3: I ended up making mine from an old Craftsman radial arm saw, a 10 ft piece of 1/2" plywood, some skate board bearings and some 2" angle. Some 3 x 3" oak legs and an Oak frame holds it all up. I built it about 5 years ago and have only needed to use it a few times since, but I don't know why really. The big advantage is the foot print is only 10 ft long by about 5 ft wide. I can either rip or crosscut a full 4 X 8 ft sheet. I call it a dual axis panel saw since it does both X and Y cuts. It's the perfect thing for a small shop with limited space. You actually need about 18 to 20 ft of run to rip an 8 ft sheet with a table saw. :surprise2:
> 
> ...


I am currently in a basement shop and have to break down larger sheets outside or in the garage before taking them downstairs. 

I've watched a lot of videos for making a track for a circular saw, but I think I like your design more as it's much easier to square up. 

How would you rip an 8' panel lengthwise? Do you have another guide that's longer?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Oh, for sure.*

Ripping and crosscutting require different guides/jigs. A straight line guide can be made from a factory edge off of plywood or Masonite. There are many videos on You tube for the details.


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## Bellarosecabinets (Jan 28, 2017)

I used this form grizzly they work great


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## grnspot (Feb 5, 2017)

wickedsolo said:


> I am currently in a basement shop and have to break down larger sheets outside or in the garage before taking them downstairs.
> 
> I've watched a lot of videos for making a track for a circular saw, but I think I like your design more as it's much easier to square up.
> 
> How would you rip an 8' panel lengthwise? Do you have another guide that's longer?


Kreg KMA2675 Kreg Rip-Cut: https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675...=UTF8&qid=1487423213&sr=1-9&keywords=kreg+jig


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

difalkner said:


> Every time we sand anything at all we find that the dust is just too much to deal with and takes hours to clean the shop. So I decided a downdraft sanding box is needed. I've read how some say they don't work very well but I see plenty of how-to videos so someone must like them. Even if it only helped 25% it would be better but after building it and using it I can safely say it is catching at least 75% of the dust, if not more.
> 
> So nothing new or secret here, just a video documentation of how I built mine plus the slightly entertaining value of watching us work with a 4x8 sheet in a small shop.


I just viewed this from the link in another more recent dust collection post on downdraft sanding boxes, and you did a great job!
I can't believe how small the space is in your shop. My shop is larger, but more crowded and sometimes I have to move a lot of stuff just to use a machine!
Same difference, just about. 
I see that you used the 1/4" pegboard I suggested in my post and that it worked well enough. That's good to know.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

How fitting that a 5 year old thread pops up when I'm looking at building something to catch sanding dust. David, after using this one for 5 years, what would you change? Does that sloped bottom help or just add weight? Looks like the sides are 6", any reason 2" or 3" sides wouldn't work as well? Did you keep the pegboard holes the same size? 
I have a couple sheets of 4x4 pegboard and plenty BB plywood to play with. Was thinking that 2" inside would be thick enough. DC intake can be on the bottom If I overhang it on the work bench. Size is probably a personal preference, but what size would you have for version 2.0?


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

_Ogre said:


> after using this one for 5 years, what would you change?


Honestly, I wouldn't change much at all. It works great like it is though it is a bit on the heavy side. So I guess lighter materials would be in order. I don't recall why I chose that depth except that it accommodates the PVC elbow for the 4" DC hose. The sloped bottom probably keeps dust from piling up in the corners because the few times I've opened it up for cleaning there wasn't much in there to clean.


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## KellyCraig (Feb 12, 2021)

My sanding station is as valued as my bandsaws and table saw. I even do small router projects in it.

The HUGE difference between your station and mine is, sides, a back and a top. Obviously, all the air drawn into your sanding station comes from every direction. By adding sides, a back and a top, air can only be drawn from the front, where you are working.

For me, I found the efficiency of my system went up beyond belief, after adding the sides, back and top. I'd hazard a guess the improvement could be pushing toward 1,000 %. I can, aggressively, sand or carve something and watch the dust and chips go straight back, then do a 90 degree turn, as it's being sucked into the station.

Note that I did install solid walls, but they only come up about 10", to allow me to lift the nylon (it could be clear plastic or anything that would limit air flow) cover forming the remainder of the sides, back and top, so I could do longer pieces (I've sanded 10' pieces inside the station - they rested on the partial walls during sanding).

After I finish installing the big compressor, I'll peddle the Makita and the space would allow me to make a bigger station, which is in the plans because this one gets used so much.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Very nice, Kelly! Yes, that looks like an improvement. Mine works sufficiently for my needs and doesn't get used often, though.


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## Fishbucket (Aug 18, 2010)

I built mine from an old furnace fan. Doubles as my outfeed table and have added a router table that lifts up with another auxiliary table to the side of it. 
6 inches of filters total. 4” under 2” “prefilters”


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

While working at Jakobe I mentioned down draft tables for the sanding area. About 5k each. Owner wanted them , but the plant manager declined. Later the sanding department was put in a separate room. Walls had to be build , etc. would have been cheaper to buy the tables


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