# Mobile saw base - development.



## Shade (Nov 15, 2011)

Well this is more me bouncing ideas off y'all. I have a small shop, 
that is best described as 10 pounds of sh** in a 5 pound bag.

As a result items need to be mobile and often serve multiple 
functions.

Here are the givens.

1. I have an old Delta Rockwell 10 table saw with a Biesmeyer fence
2. I just purchased an old DeWalt/B&D Radial arm saw off ePay for a 
steal. It is in great condition, no rust, no dings dents or abuse and 
in great condition!
3. Recently purchased Bosch router table.
4. I will build a steel base for the unit for added weight and stability. 
For those who do not know me I have a well equiped welding shop
with an engine lathe and bridgeport so the steel fabrication part of 
this will be easy.
5. I would like to incorporate all three tools into a single mobil base​The base would have a single 230V plug and the tools would plug 
into the base with good cord management. The base would be on 
heavy duty with jack screws in all four corners so the unit can be 
lifted and leveled where needed and there would be 4 way fork 
pockets so I can move around my property as needed or load it on 
a trailer or my truck and move it where needed.

The top would be 3 layers of plywood and or MDF with 3/4" T-slots 
for jigs and fences and miter gauges as needed. And storage under 
it for all the fences, blades, gauges, router bits, etc.

I will be working out a method where I can fairly easily remove the
radial arm saw column and all if needed. The base will be steel so
I am thinking to develop a mount for the RAS to directly tie in to the 
base same as the table saw. The router table I am think will sit in a 
rabbeted edge and could be lifted out and the hole filled by an 
insert.

Attached is the existing table saw layout for what it is worth, the 
saw is an the OEM Stand and the extension table is 3/4" particle
board with formica top and is beat to death and the far right end
is on 1x3" legs, as is as I purchased it a dozen years ago or so.

My initial questions for the group.

Should I go with a formica top or would another finish be better?
- Function and durability are primary.
- Appearance is secondary
- Cost is always a consideration but I do not want to go cheap 
on this project.​Has anyone incorporated dust collection in a mobile base before?
What do you think of the layout and positioning of the tools?

Any other thought comments concerns, things I am totally missing.

TIA,
Ron

The first drawing is my existing saw.

The second drawing is my initial pass at a concept.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*think process*

Tables saws "rip" best.
A RAS cross cuts best.
I'd orient the TS on the narrow width leaving enough to rip a 30 or 36" panel against the fence. 
I'd locate the RAS with a long fence, maybe a "plug in" type for cross cutting longer boards with full support. 
I'd make real certain the router and all it's fences and bits can be lowered or removed so there is no obstruction. Personally, I won't use the TS fence as the router fence because if you have to recut or rip a new piece the set up you so laboriously made is now gone.
I know you are trying to centralize your wood working equipment and probably wall space is at a premium, but I've found it best to locate the RAS against the wall with a table extension of 24" to the right and about 48" to the left. It stays at 90 degrees fixed at all times because I have a sliding miter saw for angles or use the table saw with an extended miter gauge.
No matter where you put the RAS, the column is in the way and removing it will knock your fence set up out of whack each time.
No easy answer as far as I can see.....  bill


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## Shade (Nov 15, 2011)

Little project from the last week.

I have had this table saw for over a dozen years. I purchased it used and
never had the proper wrench for holding the arbor so I milled one to fit.

The table saw is a Delta Rockwell Model 10.

The last picture shows the Radial Arm Saw I will be working with on this project.


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## Shade (Nov 15, 2011)

All excellent points.



woodnthings said:


> I'd orient the TS on the narrow width leaving enough to rip a 30 or 36" panel against the fence.
> I'd locate the RAS with a long fence, maybe a "plug in" type for cross cutting longer boards with full support.


I plan on having just over 48 inches clearance to rip on the table 
saw as drawn with room for the fence and not remove the RAS 
column.

With the RAS their will be plenty of room to the left of the saw and 
not so much to the right. I was thinking of including a telescoping
support for the right side like many portable saw stands have.



woodnthings said:


> I'd make real certain the router and all it's fences and bits can be lowered or removed so there is no obstruction. Personally, I won't use the TS fence as the router fence because if you have to recut or rip a new piece the set up you so laboriously made is now gone.


The dedicated router fence will be removeable as is already is with 
the Bosch Router table I have. I am using a Bosch plunge router in 
the table so lowering bits will be easy. I also have the option of 
using either side of the TS fence on the Router table (RT) as an 
option if wanted or not also the TS fence and the RT fence will be 
at right angle to each other.



woodnthings said:


> I know you are trying to centralize your wood working equipment and probably wall space is at a premium, but I've found it best to locate the RAS against the wall with a table extension of 24" to the right and about 48" to the left.


Space... what space? I have to step outside my shop just to 
change my mind... :blink:

I do not have any wall space at all, I will have to take some shop 
pictures when I get back from hunting.

I will have 48 inches to the TS blade and 66" to the left edge of the 
table but only 16 inches to the right. That is where the telescoping 
support might be helpful.



woodnthings said:


> It stays at 90 degrees fixed at all times because I have a sliding miter saw for angles or use the table saw with an extended miter gauge.


Sliding miter saw, I was drooling over them recently at Lowe's...



woodnthings said:


> No matter where you put the RAS the column in in the way and removing it will knock your fence set up out of whack each time.


Actually not the column and the base are keyed so they will go back 
in reference after removal, I was thinking the same thing but the 
key way is tight.

I was thinking of putting tapered dowel pins (metal) in the RAS 
fence so relocation is a breeze that can all be done after the table 
is built.

What do you think of using as a top?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*bench top*

You can use particle board or MDF but which ever you choose, I'd make it reversible. I can just flip mine over when it gets worn, but do my best to keep it looking like new so far...... :yes:
I would recommend 1/2" thick on top of 3/4" substrate....reason is you can make extended miter gauge slots by making separate pieces fitted around wooden or metal bars temporarily placed in the slots for spacing. I left about 1/32" on either side for the gauge to run off into easily. This instead of routing 3/4" dados for the slots.
I also made a torsion box 30" x 10 ft, using 3/4" particle board on both sides of 1" x 3" x 10ft long strips. VERY STURDY! Then I use another piece of 3/4" on top as a reversible top. I use legal size files, 2 drawers, as the bases. Good storage and ball bearing drawers are ready made.  bill


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Ultimately....every shop,craftsman,situation/project will require slightly differing approaches to the "issues" at hand.Spitballing and headscratchin has been a default method of design as long as theres been shops.......so keep at it.

That was the positivity.

Now comes some points to consider,and remember that first part(every shop's a little different).What are you planning to do with a RAS that can't be done with a handheld circ saw and the TS?

>On a list of priority's,with small shop in the scope lense......a circ saw is king.X-Y tables that are vertical in nature and can literally be welded to the back of a sLowes lumber cart.Clamp on straight edges.The fact that the toolhead moves instead of workpc...and probably the biggest reason.....carry the thing outside to utilize natural lite and dust management.

>Now comes TS.....why wrestle with big pcs if you don't have the rm anyway....see circ saws above.

>Guess I have to put the RAS somewhere.....but it would be after injecting a decent SMALL mitre bx after above two

>Heck,I'd rather have a handheld router than the RAS next.....so that pushes it further down

>Jigsaw,handsaw can enter here only cause I'm hoping that RAS has gotten the message and is looking for another shop to go clutter up.

>OK give me a RAS.....can I get that with a dado head.


So in my pea brain the RAS is conterproductive to your mission.If you want a project with small space as the target.....work on an extremely easy to use X-Y "affair" that can dbl as part of the TS.It may be behind as part of outfeed......it may be that the whole thing articulates from being an outfeed to being used over TS.Heck it might be telescopic and lives on one side or the other.....and on and on.

Not a fan of RT(router tables),but in the case of small footprint they have a very slight edge over a shaper.But if you build the XY above make sure its compatible with the custom router base.In which case they can put a shaper to shame(moving toolhead instead of wkpc).

I've already waxed on enough....dust management is a deep subject.One minor hint though,look at the area under TS as a seperator.

Best of luck,keep working at it.....but remember its an evolutionary process.You can get darn close sometimes w/design through diligent study....but there needs to be some contingency built in.BW


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*gotta have that RAS?*

Like BW says there are other options, but If you are intent on keeping it in the work center, here's what I'd do.

Make a step down platform that contains the RAS with the smallest table it will allow and that matches the work center height when the RAS is inserted...IE flush. Whenever the RAS, column or fence is in the way just lift the entire RAS, table and short fence attached, out of the platform and set it aside, clearing the space for what ever the need is. A piece of 3/4 particle board can be placed in the platform cavity as an insert if you have rails to support it making the entire surface flush.

You may find that eventually you can do without it, or that it is a necessity for you...I donno?  bill


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## Shade (Nov 15, 2011)

Guys thanks for the input!

I am leaving today for hunting up north. I am bringing the laptop 
with so hopefully I will have better drawing when I return.

What do you guys think of a formica top?


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