# Jointer wiring question



## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

Hello all,

this is a repost from the General Forum (I think I should have posted it here in the first place - apologies)

I just bought the Craftsman Professional 6 1/8 1hp jointer at an auction. When I got it home I realized it was wired for 240v (the plug gave it away). I need to get it back to 120 and there are no wiring diagrams on the motor. Can anyone help me make sense of many wires coming out of the motor housing? I tried to call Craftsman and after spending 45 minutes on the phone to various Sears/Craftsman call centers all over the world I finally got a very poor response: they told me to go to one of their repair centers and try and talk to a repair technician...and no, I couldn't call them directly. Very frustrating. All I need is the wiring diagram for this motor.

can anyone out there help me?

Many thanks


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

What do you see when you look inside?


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

Thanks for your help bigredC. (your name reminds me of a fantastic band called "Great Big Sea")

The insulated plug wire goes to the switch (I'm assuming it's a standard 14/2 with a white, black and ground but I can't see it). From the switch comes a black, white and ground. The ground is fixed to the body of the jointer. The white wire is connected to a black wire marked #1. The black wire is connected to two wires: a black one (marked #4) and a white one (marked #8). These three wires go into the motor.

With me? Now it starts to get interesting.

Three more wires come from the motor that are connected to each other: two black (marked #2 and #3) and a white wire (marked #5).

All number markings are on white tape.

If I haven't left you completely befuddled you may be asking yourself "Where are the wires #6 and #7?" and I would think that is a very good question as there is no evidence of any wires other than the ones I have mentioned.

Does this make any sense to you? I have a pretty good understanding of the difference between 240 and 120 (essentially, no neutral wire), but this plate of spaghetti has left me flummoxed.

Gratefully,
Brad


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

Today is your lucky day. I'm an electrician 
disguised as woodworker, and your motor has stander generic wiring. Take apart the (2,3,5), and rearrange the wires. Just connect one feed wire coming from the plug white or black to (4,5,2) and the other feed wire to (3,8,1). This is a standard 120 motor wiring. Here comes the good part. If the motor spins the wrong way interchange the 5 and 8 and it will spin the other direction. Get a new plug for the end.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

Thank you for this great advice! I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

I do have a question though. I'm assuming that as #5 and #8 are responsible for the direction of the motor, they directly correlate to the "hot" and "neutral" (black and white) from the wall. So, if that's the case, which number should (theoretically) connect to the neutral?

thanks again!

Brad


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

...and what did happen to wires #6 and #7?:shifty:


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

I edited the words hot and changed it to feed wires. Leave the 5 and 8 in the groups I showed them, and just add one feed wire to each group. If turns the wrong way you will change the grouping from (4,5,2) / (3,8,1) to (4,8,2) / (3,5,1) The motor doesn't know the difference between hot and neutral it just takes the combined voltage. Is there little wire nuts inside or what how are the sets of wires connected to each other. They use different methods. If you are still confused e mail me at [email protected] and I will give you my phone # . It's easier to say it, than type it. There is a (6&7) in a 3 phase motor.


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

When I was 20 and first became an electrician. I worked for a very strait lased Christian guy. It always made me chuckle when we talked about motors, because the thing that sticks off the side of the motor with wires in it, is called a pecker head. :laughing:


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## Howard Ferstler (Sep 27, 2007)

BradleyB said:


> Hello all,
> 
> this is a repost from the General Forum (I think I should have posted it here in the first place - apologies)
> 
> ...


If the diagrams posted here by some of the electrical people do not work out you might give Sears another call and have them send you the owner's manual. Those usually have wiring conversion diagrams in them. The manual may actually be available on line from Sears as a PDF file.

Howard Ferstler


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

Thanks Howard, but Sears was completely useless and I will never venture into their customer support network ever again. If I didn't consider my time so important, what I went through would have been comical. Honestly, it was unbelievable how many wrong departments and "please hold...your call may be monitored blah blah blah..." non-conversations I had. After the computer I was listening too "couldn't complete my call" and hung up on me (after being transfered three times), I tried one more time and finally got through to a person who could address my concerns and she told me that she couldn't help me and she couldn't give me a phone number of someone who could, and there was no one else I could speak to, but that I could try driving to one of their repair centres to speak with a technician (no I couldn't have their phone number) but there was no guarantee they could help.

Ugh.

Also, I have the manual and there is no wiring diagram.

BigredC has been very helpful and I can't express how grateful I am for his knowledgeable help. His explanations are clear and his offer to call him directly very generous. I haven't done the re-wiring yet as today was our annual "Christmas Tree Day" where we go out and slaughter our tree and have an evening with friends and family.

I'm enjoying this bulletin board and am impressed with the knowledge and wit that is shared here.

BigredC: I don't think I'll need to call you but thank you. 

I'm re-wiring the jointer tomorrow and starting on a pile of hard maple for a lovely harvest table I promised my wife.

Thanks to all,
Brad


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

Your right about all the help. I'm glad I was 
finally able to give back. I'm new to woodworking, I've been able to get all my questions answered. And some I didn't even know I was supposed to ask. It's eliminated almost all the frustration involved in learning something new.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

OK, just wired it up and it seemed to run a bit slow...and the wrong direction. Switched 8 and 5, and presto - correct direction but again it seemed a bit slow...and then it blew the breaker. The plate says it's a 12.5 amp motor and it's on a 15 amp breaker with nothing else drawing power. I tried a different outlet (on a different breaker) and it blew that one too. (So it's not a weak breaker)

When I pull on the belt it moves the blades easily

The outlet is 30 feet from the panel and I used a 15 foot extension cord - could that be the difference?

Could the last owner have put in a stronger motor? (there's no plate on the motor stating what it is - the plate I'm reading is on the jointer stand)

Is there something I need to do in the switch?

If one of the wires isn't connected properly (i.e. it slipped out of the nut) would that cause the breaker to go?

Finally, do I need to run 240 into my shop? I've been wanting to do that for a while anyway...the table saw would certainly enjoy running on 240...I just don't have the money right now and I would like to use my jointer...

Many thanks,
Brad


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

If you are putting it on a 15 amp breaker and there is anything else on it at the same time it will trip. It should be on it own dedicated 20 amp breaker. Depending how handy you are, if it was me I would bring it over to the panel, Turn the main off tie it directly onto a 20 amp breaker. Turn it on and see how it runs. If it runs the same, then put it back to 220 and tie it onto a 2 pole breaker like the one for your dryer. If you can't get close to the panel you could go to Home Depot and buy 50' of 12/2 or a 50' good extension cord and cut the ends off. Then tie it onto the breaker. If it came wired from the factory at 220 and the plate says 12.5 amps at 220. It's going to draw twice that at 110. Your looking at 25 amps. There isn't going to be any receptacles in your house that will hold that. It would have to be on a 30 amp breaker. Can you take a picture of the plate and post it? Normally the plate for the motor will be marked 110/220 the under that will have amps 25/12.5. They would line up. 15' isn't far enough to have voltage drop. You do want to use a good extension cord. It should be #12 wire. Most cords are 14 some cheap ones are 16. That could cause problems. I had to work a friends car at the bottom of the drive so I brought my 110 compressor down and ran a 100' 14 gauge cord. It wouldn't run and it tripped the breaker. That was much farther. A loose connection could also give you the problem but usually it will stop and start not run slower. The switch is different, It's a 2 pole switch, meaning it cuts the power to both wires. For 110 you only need to switch one wire. That won't hurt anything. If you are only 30' from the panel you could just run the wire yourself. Elec. work is a lot of common sense. If you are mechanically inclined I could tell you what to do.


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

You could also just put it back to 220 use the extension cord like I wrote and use it that way until you are able to get it done right. When you are working in the panel you should turn off the main and use a flashlight. Don't do it with the power on.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

thanks bigredc,

The plate definitely says 12.5 amps at 110. It's stamped right below the Craftsman logo. As the owners manual informs me, that's how it comes from the factory. I have 2 dedicated 15 amp circuits going into my garage so I'm positive there is nothing else drawing any power. My extension cords are all 12/2 (the big orange ones).

I'm pretty good with electrics. I had to rewire my second floor when we moved in three years ago (when we bought the place, I missed a deceptive reno where romex from the panel led to a hidden junction that fed the knob and tube. I spent many hours sweating in the attic fixing that issue). I can wire a three way switch and I understand the relationship between volts and amps.

I've been wanting to run a 60amp pony panel out to the garage but the cost is prohibitive right now. I figure the whole thing will cost about $400 in materials (that 6/3 wire ain't cheap)...and it is Christmas...and my wifes birthday is the 24th...and my twin children's is the 21st....generally I declare bankruptcy in January.

I paid $125 for this jointer at an auction. I'm hoping the motor is not shot.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

Also, FYI, my table saw draws 13 amps from the same receptacle with no problems. I really think the issue with the jointer. What would cause it to bog down and draw so much power?


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hi bigredc
Thank you for the concise wiring drawings. I have a big old belt/disc sander which has a 120/240 volt motor, but has a capacitor start. The capacitor is adrift in the base of the motor unit, and wiring is partially unhooked. Can you show me how the capacitor should be wired into the circuit for 120 volt operation, and how it should be wired in for 240 volt? Also, how can I test the capacitor to see if it is still functional. I bought this equipment used and cheap, and the original owner was running it with a belt drive to a smaller motor, so I need to wire it up to see if the original motor is working, or needs to be replaced.

Thank you very much for any help you can give me.

Gerry


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

I'll look thru my books and get back to you. You got me thinking that might be Brad's problem. Bradley if you read this. The motor you changed to 110 might need a capacitor to give it a jolt to get it going. The more I think about it I'm sure it does. All my 110 motors have a capacitor.Ten years ago I would have thought of that right away when I was doing a lot of industrial elec. All I've been doing the last 10 years is new comercial construction. I'll get my nose in the books.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

thanks,

I've been doing some research and found references to a centrifugal switch that operates the capacitor. From what I've read, I should hear a "click" when the capacitor switches off when the motor is coming up to speed (and, conversely, when the motor is slowing down)...or something like that...I don't know...I don't hear any click.

I have a neighbour who is an electrician doing commercial construction and his only help was to come over and tell me there was no wiring diagram and that I should leave it at 220 anyway because it would be cheaper on my hydro bill (I'm not convinced of this as, from my reckoning, double the volts and half the amps still consumes the same amount of watts, and I pay per Kilowatt hour.) I feel like he was like the thing that sticks off the side of the motor with all the wires in it...:smile:

I'm at the point now where I want to bring 240 out to the garage and rewire my table saw (which a feel very confident doing thanks to your diagrams bigredc).


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## TomD (Dec 3, 2007)

The thing that clicks on and off is a centrifugal switch that cuts the start winding in and out at an rpm that the engineer spec'd. The start winding is only in the circuit to help get the motor started. It sounds like you have a motor problem since the PO was having one also, he was running it off another motor.

Tom


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: That's a good one. 
You are absolutely correct about the voltage. If you use 10 amps at 220 then you use 20 amp at 110. It all works out the same. Guy's get confused because we are always told 277 volt lighting saves money. that's a whole different discussion. If you had a capacitor you would easily see it. They are mounted to the side of the motor. They measure any where from 2"X2"X 4" up to 2"X 4"X 8" and up. I had a hard time finding anything about capacitors on small motors. The info I have starts at 10 hp. I'll check out the web. When that centrifugal switch kicks in after you turn it off, it's like putting on the brakes. It slows it way down. It turns the motor into a generator and charges the capacitor for a few seconds so it ready to go the next time you turn it on. I just bought a used 3 hp motor for 50 bucks. It might pay you to leave that motor at 220 and pick up a used 110 motor. It's cheaper than the electrician and It's fairly easy to swap motors. Food for thought.


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

Tom I was writing at the same time as you. Did you know the PO. That would be good info to have. Your saying he switched the motor before he sold it.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

My motor definitely has a capacitor mounted on it's side. How do I tell if it's (not) working? My research says I can check it with an ohm meter set to the 100x or 1000x scale and see if it swings to 0 ohms before drifting up again. Can I replace just a capacitor? Or could it be the windings OR am I asking impossible questions for an electrician to answer over the internet for free?

I'm not against swapping it out. Maybe get a more powerful one for all that cocobolo I need to true up. I understand that hp is a relative statement and that amperage is a better gauge motor power. Can I have a motor that's too powerful on a jointer? Does power affect rpm? If it does, do I need to worry about my jointer going too fast and burning the wood? Or will my edges just be REALLY flat:icon_smile:

(the cocobolo crack is a joke. I only wish it weren't)


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## donn (Dec 13, 2007)

*Electric Motor Information*

I just got a Sears model 113.206933 jointer/planer like your's (I think). I needed some info on the motor wiring too and got a nice discussion from:
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/elec-mtr/elec-mtr.html


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

thanks donn - that's exactly where I was getting my information from! The internet is a small world.


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## TomD (Dec 3, 2007)

bigredc said:


> Tom I was writing at the same time as you. Did you know the PO. That would be good info to have. Your saying he switched the motor before he sold it.


My old timers is kicking in again. I think I got threads mixed up, I thought the original post said the guy was running it off another motor. A little reading fixed that defective thought. What I said about the switch is true. You should hear it kick out as the revs build and you should hear it close after shutting it down and it winds down. The motor can be opened and the switch repaired. However, If you are not doing the work yourself a new motor will probably be cheaper than the repair! Motors do go bad. The old cast iron GE's and Baldor's ran for a very long time. It's been my experience that a lot of newer stuff just doesn't hold up. My back ground is HVAC repair work.

Tom


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## TomD (Dec 3, 2007)

To check a capacitor with an OHM meter, set the meter to the highest scale and attach it to the capacitor. Remove and reverse the meter leads going to the capacitor. The meter should give a big kick and then return to zero. I like an analog meter better than the digitals for doing this. Of course, many new digitals give a reading directly in micro farads. Safety - it is best to discharge a capacitor before touching it. The best way is with a bleed down resistor. The most often used way is shorting the terminals with a screwdriver. If you don't get a spark it is discharged. If you do get a spark, you just saved yourself a nice wallop, and it is now discharged.

Tom


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

I'm seeing something very interesting. That link shows the wires grouped different that my book. My book shows, (2,4,5)&(1,3,8) or (2,4,8)&(1,3,5) for 115 volts That link shows (1,4,8)&(2,3,5) or (1,4,5)&(2,3,8) Try switching the wires to the grouping from the link. 
My book's diagram is for a split phase motor. Your's is not that. it's a capacitor motor. The information on the link say's they are wired the same, but his diagram is different. Switch it then just bump it. On off real quick. If it groans and doesn't turn or barely turns don't try it again. If it takes off an runs good. Give it another try for like 10 seconds. If it seems good leave it on let it run a bit. Hopefully this is the problem.


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

this is my book


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

*I found a different page that is the same grouping as my book. 
*


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

I tried the (2,3,5) (1,4,8) grouping and that doesn't work. I popped the switch on and off and the blades sat there and gave an energetic quiver with no rotation at all and an angry hum.


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

Are you going to try to test the capacitor like Tom said? I don't know what else to tell you. Is it feasible to rewire back to 220 and tie it into the panel with a piece of romex or extension cord? If you did that and it still didn't run, then it would probably be the capacitor. You can't just call an electrician the average electrician won't have a clue. You would need to find a motor shop. I have a few around me. You bring them your motor and they test them and rebuild them if they need it. I think it's cheaper to rebuild a motor than buy a new one. If you haven't priced new motors yet you'll be in for a shock.


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

Gerry try this site to see if it is any help. Everything I have found was similar to this.http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/el.../elec-mtr.html


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

Thanks for all your help. When I have a moment, I'm going to run a string of romex down to the panel in my basement and try it on 240. If that works I'm going to run that 60 amp pony panel out to the garage to run all my tools and my wife's kiln (she's a ceramics artist; aka potter. She's glad I have this problem as she's been asking me to wire up her kiln for a while now).

I'll let you know if I ever get the darn thing working.

Thanks again


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## TomD (Dec 3, 2007)

Guys,

I just want to re-visit the capacitor for a second. Discharge it before you pull the wires off. I like to isolate components before testing. BTW, I only forgot to discharge the capacitor once and I knew it was good without using the meter! The other test you might try is with your meter set on ohms, check the resistance of the start and run windings and then test the windings to the case. The start winding is a higher resistance than the run and there should be no reading at all to the case. When reading to the case, set the ohm meter on the highest scale and hopefully you will see no movement.

Tom


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Sorry bigreddc

I tried the link, and didn't get anything but an "oops"

Gerry


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

Gerry, It's the same link as in post #24.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Thanks bigredc.
I can pull up the link on post 24 fine.

When I get an opportunity I will try to work out the wiring for my sander, and see if I can get it to work,

Gerry


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## TomD (Dec 3, 2007)

BradleyB said:


> thanks bigredc,
> 
> The plate definitely says 12.5 amps at 110.


Something else to be aware of is a rating of 12.5A at 110V is what is commonly referred to as the FLA rating. This is Full Load Amps. A motor is an inductive load and will try to draw enough current to do the work at hand. A light bulb is a resistive load and will always draw the same amount of current. If there is no load I can't imagine the motor drawing more than 4 or 5 amps. The breaker should definitely not be tripping and I doubt the electrical service is the problem.

Tom


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

I must have missed post 15. 
I was still hoping the breaker was tripping because it was 12.5 at 220. I think you going to have to dig into that motor. Coincidently I picked up a belt disc sander for 30 bucks about a month ago. It seemed to work fine. Over the weekend I decided to mount on stand I found, and rewire the switch. I got it all done. When I turned on the switch it made all kinds of noise, stopped. I played with the switch I could get it to run, but something was definitely wrong. I tore into it. I'm going to post pictures of the centrifugal switch so you can see how it works. My motor was full of dirt and saw dust. I just cleaned it up real good. It runs fine now


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)




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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

When it's not spinning the switch holds these contacts closed. After it gets spinning it releases the contacts.


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)




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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

If you feeling brave maybe you can take yours apart. It might be something simple.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

many thanks - I'm going to see how it works wired to 240 before I break into it. When I have a minute. The Christmas season is wreaking havoc with my shop time!


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

I'm going away for 2-3 weeks to visit relatves in Georgia and Fla. for the holidays. I might not be able to check in till Jan. Good luck with the jointer. If I have time I'll check in on my brothers computer.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

Have fun with the relatives. I hear Georgia is beautiful.

I'm waiting on a buddy of mine who works in construction who told me he could rustle up some 6-3 wire so I can run 60 amps out to the garage. We'll see.


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

*Quick update*

Right, well, I feel a bit sheepish now.

I just spent almost $400 (Canadian so that would be...er...$400 US)on wire, breakers etc. so I can run a 60amp pony panel out to the garage. I have two 15 amp ciruits out there right now that are not well marked in my electrical panel so, to find the correct breakers to disconnect, I thought I would fire up the jointer and pop the breakers (so I could spot them easily). Well, wouldn't you know it, the jointer ran fine! Purred away! It's a bit warmer than when I first tried it...maybe I knocked away some gunk while I was fiddling around with the motor?

Also, now that it's working, I read the manual cover to cover and found a wiring diagram:blink: (in my own defense, it's placed in an odd spot and not listed in the contents.)

Regardless, I now have puh-lenty of power out there (240 and otherwise) and now my wife can fire up her 40amp kiln...so...she's happy (She's a ceramics artist - you and I would call her a potter).

Thanks for all your help bigredC! I'm off to make some sawdust.


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## TomD (Dec 3, 2007)

Money spent on the electrical upgrade will be money well spent. As someone wiser that myself has proclaimed, "Happy wife; Happy life."

Tom


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## BradleyB (Dec 6, 2007)

"If Momma ain't happy ain't no one happy!":yes:


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## bigredc (Sep 1, 2007)

Welcome to my world. I don't do a lot of industrial service calls anymore, but in the past I have worked on stuff for hours, not found anything wrong, with the customer breathing down my back. Then all of a sudden the machine starts working again. Do I tell the customer, i don't have a clue what i did, or do I puff out my chest and write up the bill. I did the first once or twice then I got good at making up reasons how I fixed it. Anyway good luck, glad I could help. You'll use that electric down the road. You never have to much juice.


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