# red oak staining



## walseb2555 (Jan 19, 2012)

I have a love for red oak and its grain patterns, but staining has always been a headache. I do a lot in the red mahogany and those who use this wood knows that wood from different trees are somewhat different in their character, so getting enough wood i know comes from the same tree is hard. What ends up happening is that i will get a piece or two that will not take stain the same, so i end up putting several coats of stain on my pieces and lose the grain. What can be done to ensure that i get a nice even color and still keep the grain?


----------



## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

walseb2555 said:


> I have a love for red oak and its grain patterns, but staining has always been a headache. I do a lot in the red mahogany and those who use this wood knows that wood from different trees are somewhat different in their character, so getting enough wood i know comes from the same tree is hard. What ends up happening is that i will get a piece or two that will not take stain the same, so i end up putting several coats of stain on my pieces and lose the grain. What can be done to ensure that i get a nice even color and still keep the grain?


Depending on what stains your using, you have a few options. If all of your applications are by hand, then your more limited. The most oft used way now, is to apply a light spray coat of a dye that will blend everything in much more uniformly, much as the factories do. then you can apply a oil stain over this. It's not perfect, but much more acceptable. 

Another way is to thin your stain after you have applied the more original thicker stain to the lighter boards, you will end up with a lighter color, but at least it will be much more uniform. you can then brush glaze another coat on over this, after sealing with clear, to bring it darker without having to apply several coats as you are now. This will only work though, if you are spraying your clear coats and not brushing. 

There is more, but i will wait for your reply to continue if you want ok?

Sincerely,

chemmy


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I find Red Oak pretty easy to stain. If the samples are sanded the same, their coloring can vary as any two different pieces of wood could vary. Getting exact comparison (more like very close) would take some experimenting with stains, by thinning, or adding a clear version, such as Minwax Natural, if you are using the wipe on version of their oil base stains.


If you make samples, once you have applied the stain (when dry) apply your selected topcoat, as that will change the color/appearance.












 







.


----------



## walseb2555 (Jan 19, 2012)

*red oak stain*

thanks for your reply's, i tried a couple different approaches and one really seemed to work very well. I coated the piece well with minwax red mahogany wipe on stain, let dry to tacky, then took a rag wet with stain an rubbed the piece until i rubbed the excess off and the old stain that was tacky made the stain on the rag very thick, thereby giving the piece a very uniform color while not hiding the grain. This is a very time consuming procedure, but it gives a very beautiful finished product. 
Now i will be putting on a finish coat. Have any of you used Krystal by Campbell? I have used this on a lot of project and have a very good and durable finish. it dries in about 10 minutes to a sand-able state and can be second coated right away. What i am wondering is there another finish that will be durable as this but give it a more hand rubbed sheen? i forgot to mention that this finish is used mostly on hardwood flooring because of its durable properties


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I had to refinish a red oak door*

The door was completely stripped to bare wood, washed with lacquer thinner, then stained. I didn't like the brownish color so I sprayed a mixture of red cedar and golden oak stains...no chemist here...just eyeballed it to get the color I wanted. :laughing:
Then when the color was even, it took a few applications, I let it dry then applied a coat of super fast drying polyurethane for floors. So far it's held up very well on the North exterior door.
The thread: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/refinish-oak-door-11694/


----------



## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> The door was completely stripped to bare wood, washed with lacquer thinner, then stained. I didn't like the brownish color so I sprayed a mixture of red cedar and golden oak stains...no chemist here...just eyeballed it to get the color I wanted. :laughing:
> Then when the color was even, it took a few applications, I let it dry then applied a coat of super fast drying polyurethane for floors. So far it's hold up very well on the North exterior door.
> The thread: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/refinish-oak-door-11694/


Nothing wrong with that W&T, thats what eyeballs were made for, lol. nor do you have to be a chemist or pro colorist, only if your matching critical colors for others does this help. :thumbsup:


----------

