# Butcher Block Counter Top



## werneb01 (Apr 23, 2008)

My wife and I would like to put a butcher block counter top on the island in our kitchen. Overall dimensions are about 3' by 5'. I would like to make it out of maple and use end grain by using 2" by 2" blocks. I can only make the blocks about 1 1/2" tall as I would like to stay close to standard countertop height of 36". There will be a section 10" by 42" that will be overhanging the cabinets for stools to slide under.

What I'm wondering is will just edge glueing all these blocks together be strong enough for the countertop? How about the overhanging section?

What if I made the blocks about 1" and glued the on top of a 1/2" sheet of plywood? The outer rows would need to be rabbetted to accept the plywood and to cover the plywood edge, but would this give me more strength?

Am I nuts? I would like to use endgrain, and I realize this will be about 540 individual pieces, but if I make them in strips and then cut again and glue I'll get my pattern. So, what do you say...can it be done? Should it be done?

If not I will probably go with 1" strips 1 1/2" wide and glue them all together.

Thanks as always.

Brad


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## Garmar (Apr 7, 2009)

werneb01 said:


> My wife and I would like to put a butcher block counter top on the island in our kitchen. Overall dimensions are about 3' by 5'. I would like to make it out of maple and use end grain by using 2" by 2" blocks. I can only make the blocks about 1 1/2" tall as I would like to stay close to standard countertop height of 36". There will be a section 10" by 42" that will be overhanging the cabinets for stools to slide under.
> 
> What I'm wondering is will just edge glueing all these blocks together be strong enough for the countertop? How about the overhanging section? Yes. Use a good quality yellow glue like Titebond.
> 
> ...


Also, make sure to use a finish (if you use one) that is food grade. 

Hope this helped. If you have any questions I'm glad to help.

gar


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## Travis Lib (Apr 1, 2009)

My suggestion would be to use gorilla glue with polyurethane. This stuff works great. I recently edge glued up some pine with no biscuits and let dry. After this was dried I cut the piece to my desired length and to let you know how strong this glue is I had one of my helpers try to break the joint of 
one of the cut off ends and it did not break the joint it broke the wood on each side of the joint. Great stuff. Try it.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Titebond III would be my choice.


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## creative novice (Jul 25, 2008)

*this old house episode*

_diy _aired a _this old house _*episode 2708* that took a tour thru a germansville pa (paul grothouse) shop that was doing butcherblock countertops ....they glued up one by ? and then cross cut those....remembering to flip the ends before they glued them again to each other ....then they ran them thru the planer...he also used finished the ends using a double ogie . google paul grothouse... he also developed a sealer for his countertops. i am not sure if diy or this old house has a website to view their old episodes. julie


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## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

Titebond III


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## werneb01 (Apr 23, 2008)

Thanks for the replys. I think we are going to try it here in the next few weeks. I googled Paul Grothouse and it seems they use just about any wood out there and then some.

As of now I'm thinking maple with some type of darker wood border, maybe walnut, but I'm wondering about allergies...noone in my family is but down the road...

Thanks again!

Brad


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## werneb01 (Apr 23, 2008)

*Getting there...*

I've been working on the countertop. It is about 38" by 72" and 2" thick. It is hard maple with a walnut border. I'm just putting the last few pieces on the outside maple border row. I can say I haven't used this much glue before on any of my other projects.

I picked up some food grade mineral oil to finish the counter top. However, I'm guessing I should do something to the underside before I install it? Just mineral oil? Won't it dry out? It won't be possible to re-apply on the underside once installed so I'm wondering if a more permanent coating should be applied?

I don't want to screw this up...there are lots of hours and a set of jointer and a set of planer knives dull as a result of this process.

Thanks!

Brad


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Brad,

I just oil the top of mine liberally when it needs it, let it soak in a bit, then do it again until I feel like it's sufficiently oiled. Mine isn't as thick as that, only 3/4 inch or so, but it works just fine. I oiled the bottom once, before I installed it, and I oil the top fairly regularly.


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## Garmar (Apr 7, 2009)

Looks like you've done a great job. Congrats!

I don't see what it would hurt to oil the bottom with the food grade oil. 

The walnut is a nice touch. That BB should last forever. 

gar


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## jraksdhs (Oct 19, 2008)

werneb01 said:


> My wife and I would like to put a butcher block counter top on the island in our kitchen. Overall dimensions are about 3' by 5'. I would like to make it out of maple and use end grain by using 2" by 2" blocks. I can only make the blocks about 1 1/2" tall as I would like to stay close to standard countertop height of 36". There will be a section 10" by 42" that will be overhanging the cabinets for stools to slide under.
> 
> What I'm wondering is will just edge glueing all these blocks together be strong enough for the countertop? How about the overhanging section?
> 
> ...


 You have the right idea using the plywood. I think I'd go 3/4" just to be safe. I make the top 1 1/2" and then flip it over and mortise out for the piece of plywood. I'd double what ever your overhang is, so thats its fully supported by the cabinets. 

jraks


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## creative novice (Jul 25, 2008)

*mineral oil underside*

I would think you should seal the underneath as well...the idea with the oil (in my opinion) is to seal it to keep it from drying out and a latent aspect is to make the grain and beauty of the wood show....so, if you oil the top alot and then occassionally...the top will not dry out...but if you don't seal up the underside...it will dry out there...so, then i wonder if you shouldn't seal the bottom with something else....forget oil on the _underside_ (where u will never be able to get at it again to re-coat) and use a sealer or a few coats of marine poly/varnish on the underside only...?????


What does everyone else think???

:thumbsup:Oh, by the way...it looks fantastic!!!! alot of time and patience!!!


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## jraksdhs (Oct 19, 2008)

*you dont need too*

Its not nessecary to oil or seal the bottom. End grain is going to soak it up like its nobodys business. Make a sample thats 2x2x2 and pour some mineral oil on the end grain standing up. After a few coats you'll see it start to bleed through the bottom. case closed!

jraks


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## werneb01 (Apr 23, 2008)

*Update and question*

I have the butcher block sanded - finally. I thought I did a good job with the glue up but it turns out it needed quite a bit of sanding and nothing I had wanted to touch the end grain maple. So, I rented a 8 inch floor drum sander and went to town. 

I sanded the top up to 120 with my 6 inch orbital and it looks great, not marks at all.

I put a coat of Watco Butcher Block Oil (http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-142700/Detail) on it. I assumed it would penetrate into the grain and I'd have to build up a few coats to get a shine. However, the finish seems to sit on more like a film. I waited the 6 hours and went and looked and you can see rag marks and it is dry...it doesn't appear to have soaked in and I'm not real happy with it. I assumed it would look more like you put a regular penetrating oil on it. 

Can I sand it off and try something else? I don't like the plastic look on this but still would like it to be food safe. Does plain mineral oil have that affect? If so, where do I buy food grade mineral oil?

Thanks,

Brad


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## creative novice (Jul 25, 2008)

*where to buy*

mineral oil is the "same" as baby oil...however, most baby oil has a fragrance added. mineral oil was commonly used as a laxative in previous generations too. go to your pharmacy...larger stores usually carry mineral oil in a "pure" form to be added to enemas! you are looking for mineral oil, usp. read the label....making sure there is no fragrance added. swan, humco and mckesson are manufacturers to name a few. it is usually available in 8, 16 and 32 oz containers. if u can not find it, ask the pharmacist to order you some...they usually place orders every other day, getting the order in the next day. good luck!

as far as sanding....i am not familiar w/ the product you used, but if it looks as if it is "sitting" on the top of the wood...then i would imagine it could be sanded off. the oil will take a few coats and then you should re-coat every now and then dependent upon how much u use the counter and how dry the wood and environment is. i use mineral oil to wipe down my antiques....when i "deep'" clean the house.....which isn't as often as i should....but about every 3-4 months things like old clocks, frames, wooden bowls and kraut cutters get oiled. when i do oil them, they need it! so i guess for my application it isn't often enuf!


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

"Plain" mineral oil is fine. I buy 8 oz bottles of it at places Target, WalMart, or just about any pharmacy. As I said in my earlier post, I just reapply every couple of months when the wood looks dry to me or I start to see a lot of blade marks. I do that with my wooden cutting boards as well and I've never had any troubles at all.


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## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

Werneb01,
beautiful BB,is the walnut edge grain up also?How did you clamp that at glue up? what a job!!!


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## Fredh (May 19, 2021)

Oops.


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## kiwi_outdoors (Jan 15, 2020)

if you use an oil finish, don't let food coloring (dye) anywhere near it. Our beautifully restored end grain cutting board now has stains in it :-(


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## RepairmanJack (Aug 4, 2013)

creative novice said:


> mineral oil was commonly used as a laxative in previous generations


Yes! I only use mineral oil on my Marble-Slab island top. I don't need any help passing my processed food.

I have butcher block counters and I use Walnut oil exclusively. Drop 20-30 for a Gallon or so on Amazon, and be prepared to reapply every week or so for a month, and then on an extended basis for the foreseeable future.

Over-time walnut oil will give the wood a very deep and rich finish that will greatly enhance the quality and performance of the wood. I used on my old Oak counters and my current counter.

Plus, it's not a laxative.


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

werneb01 said:


> My wife and I would like to put a butcher block counter top on the island in our kitchen. Overall dimensions are about 3' by 5'. I would like to make it out of maple and use end grain by using 2" by 2" blocks. I can only make the blocks about 1 1/2" tall as I would like to stay close to standard countertop height of 36". There will be a section 10" by 42" that will be overhanging the cabinets for stools to slide under.
> 
> What I'm wondering is will just edge glueing all these blocks together be strong enough for the countertop? How about the overhanging section?
> 
> ...


I would glue up prepared 2"x2" strips, or whatever side bock you want. I would draw a carpenters triangle on it so you can keep them registered. Once you have them prepared, rip off the 1-1/2" strips. You can use the triangle to either alternate the cuts when rea aligning them or place them back in order as originally registered. You can then do that glue up. Being that it is end grain, although you could do it with a router, I would find a local guy with a Timesaver or other wide belt sander to surface tour final top. Will be worth the small cost if you are not set up for that. My glue of choice would be epoxy with a slow set hardener, I happen to like West System products.


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