# Router Table Top dimensions



## slim pickens (Aug 3, 2009)

I'll first say that besides moving walls and installing doorways, I'm pretty new to woodworking.

I just finished building a built-in linen cabinet that's 92" tall, 40" wide and 36" deep with 4 raised panel doors (all dictated by ms. pickens). I installed the shelves using dados.

I used a router free hand for this project and swear I won't start on the bathroom/kitchen cabinets until I build a router table. 

Using the search I see Router tables made anywhere from 22" x 16" to 36" x 24" ... and someone suggested aircraft carrier deck size. With more tall cabinets to build in the bathroom and all the kitchen cabinets, what size router table would you fellers suggest? If I need to I'll go as big as 48 x 36!! 

(just for fun I just did a quick drawing of this size and it would give me an infeed of 18" and an outfeed of 30" .... I could move the fence far enough to do a dado 15" from the end of the board. Industrial size!!)

I'd sure appreciate some input as to a suggested size for this work. 

Thanks .... slim


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Slim I've got 2 router tables*

they are both 27" by 20", not large by any means. In my experience the length is more important than the width since you will need more support on longer pieces, and additionally with roller supports or with in and out feed tables. Once you're set up you can profile a lot of stock easily this way. 
Even with a 48" table you'll still need some support, in and out on a 8' length.
A dado across the width of a wide panel is better accomplished with a handheld router and a dado jig clamped to the panel. 
If floor space doesn't matter, then go for the bigger table. JMO
:thumbsup: bill


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

I agree w/ everything Bill said. Mine's almost the same as his, 28" x 20" but I only do pretty small work. A little bigger wouldn't hurt, but go more for the length.


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I find larger router tables harder to use because homemade fences need to be larger, dust collects around the periphery, and taking the rotor motor out to change bits is more difficult. My top is about 18x24. Plus, larger tables are harder to support to keep them nice and straight.


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## bzbatl (Feb 10, 2009)

The one I'm building - Norm's plans - is 25x35.


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## slim pickens (Aug 3, 2009)

Thanks guys. Just the info I needed.

I've got two 3/4 inch sheets cut to 36" wide. One is 50" long and the other the full 8 feet. I think I'll cut the 50"er in two and have two 36x25 to glue together and add a piece of 1/8" melamine I've got laying in the corner. 

Think that'll do it?

On second thought, reading above, I think I'll go ahead and go for the 48" length and 25 or so wide. I've got a long skinny shop so I'll just put it in the assembly line.


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## Old Skhool (Oct 31, 2009)

slim pickens said:


> Thanks guys. Just the info I needed.
> 
> I've got two 3/4 inch sheets cut to 36" wide. One is 50" long and the other the full 8 feet. I think I'll cut the 50"er in two and have two 36x25 to glue together and add a piece of 1/8" melamine I've got laying in the corner.
> 
> ...


I don't think you'll regret going with the larger table, especially if you don't have a shaper. Support is always good for wide or long pieces, and operations like template routing, raised panel doors...

Another suggestion is to incorporate leg levelers and build the table the *same height* as some of your other equipment, or tables. I've used mine as a workbench, off feed table etc.. Don't forget to check for flatness during glue-up, as you only get one chance! After squaring up the glued up panel, I'd finish by adding a solid strip of hardwood with a round over to protect the edges and provide comfort.:smile:


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I was just thinking yesterday my router table is to small. I was building a pegboard frame to go between my wall mounted cabinets. I decided to use my rail and stile bits to make a nice frame. Attemping to route the cope on the ends of the rails of a piece 2" by 5' was a challenge. There is just not enough table space in front of the bit. Go for a big one!
Tom


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## slim pickens (Aug 3, 2009)

That brings up a couple more questions. What has been your maximum distance need to move the fence back? What seems to be the best distance between the bit and the miter slot?


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I don't believe I have ever needed to move the fence back more than 6 to 8 inches. I mainly use the RT for edge routing and raised panel doors. I have never done dados on the router table; I use the TS. I have never used the miter slot in my router table.
Tom


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## wletson (Jan 11, 2010)

Um, silly question...
doing dado cuts in something that's over 4' likely isn't going to be done on the table anyway. Utilizing a good straight edge and doing it by hand is going to be the way to go. You're not going to be able to move the fence 2.5' away from the bit.

Or am I missing the point?


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## slim pickens (Aug 3, 2009)

Interesting .... I thought the miter guage would be used for stile and rail routing on the end of the rail. Moving the fence a few inches would allow creating the dado for the floor of 24" or less cabinets? I don't have a dado blade for my table saw (Bosch 4100) or I'd quit asking these dado questions. I guess I'd better buy one! :blink:

Tools I now have:
Pneumatic Nailers - Senco framing and finish, Bostich brad
Sanders - Makita belt, Dewalt random orbital
Bosch table saw
Hitachi combo slider 12" miter saw
Router - Bosch 1617EV fixed and plunge bases
Wet tile saw, 4" side grinder
Beat up 15 year old Makita circular saw that won't follow a straight edge - string line and eyeball only.

I have purchased most of these in the last six months as need and money became available. With the Router table I think I should be pretty good.

What other tools would you suggest for this remodeling?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Sure*

You can do that by moving the fence on the RT. 

Quote: Interesting .... I thought the miter gauge would be used for stile and rail routing on the end of the rail. Moving the fence a few inches would allow creating the dado for the floor of 24" or less cabinets? I don't have a dado blade for my table saw (Bosch 4100) or I'd quit asking these dado questions. I guess I'd better buy one! :blink:
*Oshlun SDS-0630 6-Inch 30 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor* List 79.99
Price too low to show!
www.Amazon.com

You can also do the same thing in the TS.
What you can not do is put a dado at 36" from one end of a panel without a handheld router and a guide or a dado jig, since you can't locate the fence that distance from the blade....unless you have a very wide table saw. DAMHIKT  bill


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## wletson (Jan 11, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> What you can not do is put a dado at 36" from one end of a panel without a handheld router and a guide or a dado jig, since you can't locate the fence that distance from the blade.... bill


When Slim said for the floor, I thought well sure, but like bill says, if you were cutting dados for fitting shelves up the main carcus, you're back to hand work.

Slim, I'm assuming you have a reasonably good jigsaw. If not, get a good one!

You seem to have a good solid group of tools going! You'll know what you need when you get to the job it requires.


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## slim pickens (Aug 3, 2009)

Thanks guys. Looks like I still need a good worm drive circular saw, a good jigsaw (mine is as old and beat up as my old circular), and a dado blade. Cool ... new power tools!

Thanks for all the information and the patience to set me on the straight and narrow!

slim

Hmmmmmm ... maybe a drill press ... I needed one the last time I tore down my Harley. Maybe when the wife gets a bonus! :bangin:


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

slim pickens said:


> Interesting .... I thought the miter guage would be used for stile and rail routing on the end of the rail. Moving the fence a few inches would allow creating the dado for the floor of 24" or less cabinets? I don't have a dado blade for my table saw (Bosch 4100) or I'd quit asking these dado questions. I guess I'd better buy one! :blink:
> 
> Tools I now have:
> Pneumatic Nailers - Senco framing and finish, Bostich brad
> ...


 
No, you don't need to use the miter slot to route rails and stiles. All you need is the fence on both sides inline with the front edge of bit bearing. I usually secure one side of the fence and using a straight edge align the fence so the straight edge touches both sides of the fence and the bit bearting. Most of the time the fence is no where near parallel with the miter slot.
Tom


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

Just measured the table I built last month. 
33" wide by 27" deep and 32" off the floor, but I'll be changing the casters soon and it will be raised up a couple of inches.
Also, centre of the bit is 17" from the front edge so it allows for more table surface (ie: door edges).
If I need more depth to the cut, I'll turn the table around and run the material through from the back side.


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