# Any problems with kitchen wall cabs more than 12" deep?



## zxw55 (Jan 25, 2015)

I'm building our (euro style) kitchen cabinets as part of a remodeling project and want to maximize our storage in this rather small kitchen. I've been toying with the idea of building the uppers at something like 14 inches deep rather than the standard 12 inch. I realize I won't be able to maximize cuts on a 48" wide sheet, and I'll lose some counter visibility (my wife won't), but we would rather have the extra space. I could go to almost 16" (three cuts per 48") but that seems too deep. Anyhow, has anyone done this? Are there other cons I should consider? Thanks.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

16" is way too big, but 14" will work just fine. Just be sure to build the cabs with enough strength to support the extra weight that the bigger cabinet box can hold.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Functionally there isn't a thing wrong with making the cabinets deeper. I think you would be alright making the cabinets 14" deep but I don't think I would go any deeper as I think you would be hurting the value of the house to go any deeper. I think someone looking to buy the house wouldn't care for 16" deep wall cabinets.


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

I think the only problem going deeper is that things get hard to see/reach if they are in the back of say the 3rd shelf up.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*fit a plate*

Take your largest dinner plate, not the platter and measure it. It should come in between 12" and 14" and that's what the interior of your cabinet should be, with a little extra for clearance. Overlay doors give you an extra 3/4" of depth because of the face frames, so keep that in mind also..

Don't make all the shelves the same height. If something won't fit under one, it won't fit under any that way. Make the lower shelves a few inches taller and decrease the height as you go up. Heaviest and largest things on the bottom. If you want under cabinet lighting leave 1" or 2" of face frame hanging down to cover the lighting.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I just finished a kitchen for a customer and we went 15 inches deep so that we could cover where there used to be soffits above the original cabinets. 

The new cabinets went all the way to the ceiling. There were no problems that I saw. Seemed just as solid as the standard 12 inch deep cabinets.


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## zxw55 (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks Big Dave, I didn't think about that. We also have 15 inch soffits, and plan to go to the ceiling with cabs. If I go 14-14.5 inches (frameless) with a 3/4 inch door, it takes me out to about 15. This also means I don't have to mess with the ceiling. A modest piece of trim will be more than sufficient to "tidy" it up.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Big Dave said:


> I just finished a kitchen for a customer and we went 15 inches deep so that we could cover where there used to be soffits above the original cabinets.
> 
> The new cabinets went all the way to the ceiling. There were no problems that I saw. Seemed just as solid as the standard 12 inch deep cabinets.


It's not so much the depth but the transfer of weight. 12" cabinets as 4x8 sheets of plywood became standard in shops to keep prices at a minimum. You go too deep and that weight transfers more to the front opposed to the back. To go 15+ inches needs addition support from the soffit or a beefier back


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## zxw55 (Jan 25, 2015)

Rebelwork said:


> ... To go 15+ inches needs addition support from the soffit or a beefier back


I'm using 3/4 plywood with 1/4 back panel. What size nailers would you recommend?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

zxw55 said:


> I'm using 3/4 plywood with 1/4 back panel. What size nailers would you recommend?


 On 12" deep cabinets I generally use a 2.5-3" nailer. On a commercial cabinet box or in your case a 1/2-3/4 ply,etc would be dadoed in on a 15" depth.

If your joists are in the proper direction and your using face frames you can put a screw through the face frame into the ceiling joist as well....


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