# Dad's old bandsaw broke... any ideas?



## GMedic (Dec 28, 2012)

Hello folks I'm brand new to woodworking (and thus this forum) and over the last couple months have decided to take it up. Since my Dad was a bit of a DIY'er he left me a few tools and one of them is an old cast iron 14" bandsaw. There are no manufacturer labels or markings anywhere except "Made in Taiwan" and "Model WA14". 

I was trying to get the wheels aligned over each other a couple days ago when I noticed the bar that allows the top wheel to be angled (sorry I'm not familiar with all the terms yet) was cracked, when I touched it it broke off and I can see no way to fix it. I'm hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction? I was saving up to buy a planer for a chair I want to build (that also needs a bandsaw) so now I'm in a pickle. Suggestions? Is this fixable? Could I used a new band saw to plane down 2 1/4" wood to 1 3/4"?










Thanks!









This is the back, I can't see any way of getting the piece off to replace it :-/. 



















Thanks for any suggestions!


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Easy fix. That part is darn near universal, hit up a woodworking store or contact jet or delta or grizzly or...... and email them the pics. They should be able to hook you up fairly easy. It's easy to remove and fix too, I've done it on mine.


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## GMedic (Dec 28, 2012)

ACP how do I get the stinking thing off??? Picture 3 is a side shot of that assembly and I see no way to get it out without cutting the shield off... What am I missing? Because of the post that wheel sits on you cannot just slide it out, it's too long.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Get the model # off of it, perform a google search with the model # and then type manual or parts schematic/diagram.....

Something may come or lead you where to go for diagram...and possibly the parts for it.


That will show you a blow up of how it's assembled....etc,etc ....


On a side note,....

Looks like white metal - aka' "pigs metal"..if it is,.....that can not be welded.....



B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Take the back of the upper wheel cover off and then loosen up whatever threads into the top wheel spindle assembly, and then it will just slide out the top.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Look closer D,.....




:thumbdown:....:no:

Another Chicom engineering marvel.......:laughing:

See the 4 indentations around all 4 corners......


Something is definitely being cast into an answer......somewhere, somehow,....


B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

This should help you out, as far as info......



Sound familiar,...:blink: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?91350-14-quot-Taiwan-Bandsaw-Part-Needed




B,


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## mavawreck (Nov 26, 2011)

My US manufactured 1950's craftsman snapped in the same spot. Been down for 2 years as I search for the part (off and on).


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I bet the plastic handles on the covers have elephants embossed in them. If so they were built at the elephant factory. I can't remember the actual name, but they did a ton of saws (mine included) they were a copy of the Delta. As already mentioned you should be able to get replacement parts through Delta (maybe), Jet and other manufactures that copied Delta. 

I have also had to make a number of replacement parts for my saw like the guide block holders they are also cast. I used aluminum, much better.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Bweick7 said:


> Look closer D,.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That whole thing looks like one piece of some sort of cast metal and it should slide right out the top of the fork things. Looks like it is keyed into it. If all else fails, use a hammer.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

I don't see any bolts on either side of the journal ........:blink:


The link to sawmill creek shows it off, 2 mounting holes (1 on either side of the journal) for bolts to mount the back shield cover to......:blink:

Need some better pics,......


But something is funky ......


B,


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I'll have to look at mine when I get home. It is a JET from 82. It has the elephant knobs. I'll remember when I look at it. I'll post pics of how it comes apart as I get a chance. That should help. Do you have any machinery dealers? I think I have a parts list too and can give you the JET replacement part #. Give me a bit to get back at you. I have an email from JET with the manual for mine too, a JBS MW 14. It is very universal so maybe it will help you.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

GMedic said:


> Could I used a new band saw to plane down 2 1/4" wood to 1 3/4"?


Lots of good help on the fix. Hope you get the part.

To answer the other question, yes a bandsaw can cut wood into thinner pieces. This is called re-sawing.

There will be blade marks, so expect a lot of sanding.

Once you get the part to fix the saw, you should watch this bandsaw tuning video.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/band-saw-tune-up-u-tube-video-40292/

Before you do the tune-up, get a decent blade. The one you have is likely dull.

FYI, fewer teeth are better than more teeth for re-sawing. TimberWolf site has a useful blade selector.

http://www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php


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## GMedic (Dec 28, 2012)

Fastback they do indeed have elephants! Do you know a manufacturer that makes parts like the guides that fit these? I'm not so adept with making my own parts. Warner it does slide in the fork pretty easily but do to the arm that the wheel rotates on you can't angle it out. Bweick there are no mounting holes that I can find, it seems like the guard is held on by these two posts but every attempt to get it off of them just results in bent metal:



















As for sliding it out this is as far as I can get it without cutting that post off:










ACP I would greatly appreciate that, I'm thankful for the response time from everyone on here; it's actually quite impressive! I look forward to getting into this new hobby (and a working band saw); I'm going to go get my "google" on and see if I can find some more information now that I have a good starting place.

Dave thanks for the links, I was attempting to get the two wheels in line when this happened (coplanar?). I have a new Olson general purpose blade.... fair blade? Its what my local hardware store carries.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Got a pipe wrench or vise grips?*

Use them to unscrew the 2 large posts with the thread ends which hold the outer cover on. That will allow you to remove the backing cover and get to the wheel axle that is broken.
Unless I'm mistaken.... :blink:


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## GMedic (Dec 28, 2012)

Woodnthings, thanks, I had not tried that, I may have to invest in one of those, however I did find away to get the part out... erm... I sort of broke it. I was trying to see if I could get the upper wheel shaft out of the assembly and I did.... in the process I broke the entire arm the rest of the way. Using the reference Bweick7 gave me from Sawmillcreek.org I think I might have found parts that while not exact might just work at Mikestools.com. Still not sure exactly how I'm going to get it back on though...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*borrow a wrench then*

You will NOT be able to get a new part in until you get the back cover off...... unless I am mistaken...... :blink:

You can double nut the shaft and then use a regular wrench to remove the posts. You will need two wrenches that fit a nut(s) so you can tighten them by jamming them on the post.
Unless they are rusted on they should come off with a sharp rap on a box wrench...CCW....unless I am mistaken.... :blink:


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## J Thomas (Aug 14, 2012)

Those posts that hold the blade cover on are actually studs.. Grab them with a pipe wrench or channel locks & torque on em.. they are what holds that rear guard in place. Once these are loosened you'll see how it all fits together. The tensioning/ tracking adjuster will then slide up and out. Sometimes ya might need a hammer & block to drive it with.
I have an old AMT (asian import) but Delta had the adjuster that fit mine. I did have to do a bit of filing and polishing on the replacement to get it to fit right & slide smoothly but that was minor.
Good luck with the fix-em-up.
..Jon..


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

+1 on the guys telling you it is a threaded stud and yes you will need a pipe wrench or pipe wrench to get them off. They must be removed to reassemble the entire unit. If you have some PB blaster or liquid wrench etc. spray some on it may help. I think you can find the parts from a number of places. I'll check tomorrow for the part numbers. If I remember correctly my saw is an Intergram or something like that.


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## GMedic (Dec 28, 2012)

Pipe wrench did the trick! Now to find the parts... Thanks all so much! I thought I was SOL.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I did check and my machine was made by Intergram Machine Tool, Model, WA-14, made in Taiwan. Unfortunately, the owners manual was of no use. The parts that are broken on your machine are made of 2 pieces, #16 - upper wheel sliding bracket and #19 - upper wheel shaft hinge. This was how they were labled in my manual. 

I did find an article in an old FineWoodworking magazine dated April 87, according to them the elephant band saws were a trade mark of the Yung Li Shing Electric Works Co. LTD, they made saws for Jet, Sunhill, Bridgewood, Bratton, Grizzly, Andreou, and AJ Tool. I bet there was a number of others that were not included in the list such as mine. I bought my saw around 1985.

Based on this information parts should be readily available as already indicated by others. Good luck.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I have the manual I could post if I could figure out how. It's a PDF file and currently sitting in my email folder. How do I post a PDF file? Otherwise, I could probably email it to you Gmedic if you PM me your email address. It has the exploded view of the disassembled bandsaw.

Once you have the part numbers you can contact JET customer service and order the parts you need. I'm guessing 20-40 bucks for the parts. I replaced the entire mechanism that holds the tension spring b/c the previous owner of mine overtightened and broke it.


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## GMedic (Dec 28, 2012)

ACP said:


> I have the manual I could post if I could figure out how. It's a PDF file and currently sitting in my email folder. How do I post a PDF file? Otherwise, I could probably email it to you Gmedic if you PM me your email address. It has the exploded view of the disassembled bandsaw.
> 
> Once you have the part numbers you can contact JET customer service and order the parts you need. I'm guessing 20-40 bucks for the parts. I replaced the entire mechanism that holds the tension spring b/c the previous owner of mine overtightened and broke it.


Can you email it to me? [email protected]


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## GMedic (Dec 28, 2012)

I think I found a porter cable part that might work.


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## rikk69 (Aug 16, 2013)

Fastback said:


> I did check and my machine was made by Intergram Machine Tool, Model, WA-14, made in Taiwan. Unfortunately, the owners manual was of no use.


I recently inherited an Intergram WA-14 and need to replace some parts, specifically the table and fence. I'd love to get a copy of your owners manual to find out more about the machine.


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## Parkerdog (Aug 15, 2013)

I just replaced that on my harbor freight saw because it had some slop in it. The saw was free so I figured I could put some money in it.

Any way, I ordered mine from this place http://www.tufftooth.com/
look through the band saw accessories and you will find both pieces.

I just replaced the part that is broken on yours, down the road I'll probably replace the back sliding piece too because on my new piece the shaft is slightly shorter so I had to leave out a spacer behind it so the wheel would have enough thread for the nut. and I had to do a little trimming on my pins because they were longer.

Just email and make sure your bearing diameter is the same like I did and I was good to go.

I ordered from this place too because my 14" saw didn't take the standard 93.5 blade. I had them make some 92" blades. Book called for 91.7".

Also, I just replaced the tension spring. Made a big difference for me. Cuts a lot nicer now

Sorry for being so wordy but hope this helps.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Probably shouldn't respond......and not because of an old thread.To some,what I'm about to propose is downright blasphemy.....Its regarding replacement bandsaw tables.Heck,you might want to retrofit a larger table on an existing model(to better utilize a power feeder?).In anycase....With new or old table in hand,its an extremely easy job to take a pce of A36 steel about 1/2" thick and counter bore some SHC("allen" bolts)....5/16's are fine.....so that the plate is mounted to bttm of new table.Now its a simple matter of throwing(technical term)the table up on BS....position it EXACTLY how to want it.....then carefully scribe the trunnion hole locations.

Then just remove plate from bttm of table,drill/tap.The "trick"...and it ain't much of one...is simply that the flush seated SHC's allow you to make a transition from one bolt pattern to the other.Modify the A36,not the BS trunnions or the table.Obviously,putting a table off of a 36" tannewitz on a Chicom 14 is going to rip off trunnions.Think about going up just one size...But it really shines getting BS(and TS's)"back in the game" when there's no factory parts to be found.

If you're worried about losing fractions of an inch in resaw capability's........uhh,you need a bigger saw anyway.Carry on


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