# Using Rit Dye for Maple?



## interceptor (Feb 6, 2010)

I'm putting some final touches to a Hard Maple Captains Bed project, am now pondering the type of finish to use. Past projects didn't fare well with regular oil based stains and I've picked up bits and pieces about using Rit Dye for staining as well as other dyes that may be mixed with denatured alcohol. I like the alcohol idea, wouldn't raise the grain as much as water based products. Any experiences you can share with a newb?


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

I sure wouldn't use Rit dye to stain any of my wood projects. Then again, I did stain an old garden caddy with some used motor oil once. It actually worked pretty well. Every time I changed the oil, I'd give it another rub down.

Anyway, for me the dyes I would use are TransTint dyes. They can be mixed with water, DNA, lacquer and even some oil varnishes. Dyes tend to work better on softer woods or woods that grab a penetrating stain very un-evenly and get splotchy. Rather than penetrating down into the wood (although they do penetrate down into raw wood), they are more of a surface coat or colorant, which then tend to produce a more even color. However, they can also obscure the grain somewhat. So alot of times they are used in conjuction with penetrating stains. A penetrating stain may be applied first to accentuate and figure or grain in the wood and then a dye applied to "tone" or even out the color. Dye stains are typically spray applied. You really need the proper equipment and expertise to use them IMHO. I've seen a lot of "stripes" when soneone tried to spray a dye stain that didn't know what they were doing. My recommendation is to Google working with TransTint dyes as stains or (other type dyes) and do some reading. There is no cut and dry "short answer" that can be given in 100 words or less.

In my own experience, I tend to use dyes when I'm working with soft woods like Pine and Poplar. Poplar in particular is very splotchy if trying to use a penetrating stain only. So, to try and help that I do a couple of spit coats with a 1# cut of de-waxed shellac to condition the wood. I'll then use a professional grade oil based stain like a Sherwin Williams BAC wiping stain to bring out the grain, and then use some TransTint dye in a 2# cut of de-waxed shellac which I use as a sanding sealer and to really make the grain pop.... and then once I get everything toned just right (I may end up using two different dye coats with different colors even), I finish off with my finish coats of varnish, poly or whatever I'm using as a final finish. An agressive finish schedule for sure, but one that when I use it, I can make Poplar look smooth and clean without the traditional ultra splotchy look of stained Poplar. It would work very similarly on Maple I would think since Maple tends to be very splotchy when stained as well.

So in the end, pure dye stains really need to be sprayed to get a professional result. They can be a lifesaver as toners on woods that tend to be splotchy, but can be very tricky to work with on their own. However, they are quite easy to work with (the TransTints that I like to use anyway) in conjunction with other stains and as toners in sanding sealers or finish coats. Their versatility is what makes them so great IMHO. But, like anything.... there is no one single right way to use them. You will be well served to do some serious Googling and reading. And then before using them on your project piece, doing some practice, practice, practice on some scrap to get a feel for them.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've used Rit dye with success. Whether it's wiped or sprayed, it will have to be evened out, as it will dry fast, and over lapping can be a problem. What ever medium you try, make sure it goes into complete solution. And as always try it on samples.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Isn't Rit dye made for cloth? Or maybe I am thinking of something else from my youth.

G


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GeorgeC said:


> Isn't Rit dye made for cloth? Or maybe I am thinking of something else from my youth.
> 
> G



That's the one. Works on wood too.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

rit dye also works on nylon. I used to dye rc car parts with it all the time.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

I have used RIT many times on smaller objects to make figured maple pop or even do 2 tone color. Stuff like knife handles, wooden fishing lures, turned pens, custom guitar pick guards...


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

Well dayum.... I would have never thought of using Rit dye on any of my wood projects. Interesting, but I think I'll stick with what I like in the TransTint product. However, if you need plain old Navy Blue, Black, Red or Yellow.... I guess it would certainly be cheap enough to try.


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## interceptor (Feb 6, 2010)

Well, I picked up a couple packs of Rit dye....black and brown, were the only colors available locally other than the usual greens, reds, blues, etc. Did up a few samples on scraps and had some interesting results. The black (powder mixed with denatured alcohol) penetrated the wood well between growth rings but left the actual grain patterns a little brownish....kind of a unique look. The brown was the liquid type thinned with water....just turned everything reddish brown and raised the grain, looked like [email protected] , not impressed. Just slopped both colors on the wood with a foam brush, wiped excess off immediately. Did notice blotching where I didn't sand well, could remedy that with a better job on the sanding. 

Are TransTint samples available?? Would like to give 'em a try but don't want to buy more junk that will lay around an already crowded shop.


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## b00kemdano (Feb 10, 2009)

I tried Ritt on some teacher's pens once. I just mixed it with a little bit of water to make a paste, then rubbed it into the maple on the lathe. It probably would've been better to make a solution with alcohol, like Cabinetman said. 

I also tried liquid food coloring! It worked pretty well. I still have a couple pens that were dyed with food coloring.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

You might want to add a leyer of finish over the dye. The colors will change with a varnish or oil over the dye.


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## shopsmithtom (Nov 3, 2009)

Artists use what's called (I think) a color wheel to make various colors from the basic primary colors...like the rit dye colors. It's possible to make just about any color you need that way. Of course, having the time to experiment might be the limiting factor here. 
Any dye that goes into complete solution (think coffee or tea), as opposed to stains that are in suspension and need to be stirred before use will be better at popping the grain.


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## Olympus (Jan 21, 2009)

I've successfully used RIT dyes on wood before. Mix the dye with a rubbing alcohol and wipe it on. It did a really nice job on an old rifle stock that I refinished. I was looking for a certain reddish color and none of the stains available were red enough. I mixed some scarlet red RIT with brown RIT until I got the color I was looking for. Looked really good actually.


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## interceptor (Feb 6, 2010)

Based on the info you folks provided, I re-visited the Rit dye experiment, mixed the black powder/DNA mix with the brown liquid/water combination and tried on a few scraps. Results were somewhat surprising, created a great looking Walnut stain that rivals the real thing. The liquid resulting from the mix looked rather suspect as it had somewhat of a purple tinge to it, but when applied to the wood provided a rich warm look without blotching. I applied a polyurethane semi gloss finish over the stain to determine the final color, and was impressed with how the combination highlighted the grain. The problem now is duplicating the mix, just poured some experimental mixes together without monitoring the quantities of the dyes. The ability to keep the dyes on hand and custom mix the shades needed are a big plus, could reduce the angst of choosing samples of the commercial brands available. Stuff is also dirt cheap, can mix over a gallon of stain for less than five bucks. Did learn another lesson using dyes, WEAR GLOVES or you'll look like an Iraqi that just voted. :thumbsup:

Here's a photo;


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

interceptor said:


> The problem now is duplicating the mix, just poured some experimental mixes together without monitoring the quantities of the dyes. The ability to keep the dyes on hand and custom mix the shades needed are a big plus, could reduce the angst of choosing samples of the commercial brands available. Stuff is also dirt cheap, can mix over a gallon of stain for less than five bucks.



Here is what I do. I use cooking spoons and cups (they are dirt cheap too) to mix the samples, and I keep track of the ratios of powder/liquid to water. To get an exact quantity, the samples are mixed to a relatively even amount, like an ounce or two. I keep a log of the ratios and write them next to their finished sample.

Then when making a larger batch, it's easy to figure the mix.


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## tra (Dec 27, 2009)

:thumbsup: This thread is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!


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## takamineman (Mar 28, 2012)

Good info here! Could this be used with Truoil as a topcoat or would it smear the dye?


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## MTL (Jan 21, 2012)

I don't have a lot experience with finishing. But on my last project I mixed transtint dye with a wipe on poly. The coats the darker it got. I only used two. Then to obtain a good finish followed with two more wipes untinted poly. I don't know you f there are any drawbacks to this method but it worked for me. Color was nice and even.


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## takamineman (Mar 28, 2012)

Do you remember what your ratios were?


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

The problem with RIT dyes used to be that they were fairly short lasting. The colors would not be stable on items that were exposed to light. I don't know it that is still the case

As has already been noted, being water based, RIT dyes must be sealed if a waterborne finish is contemplated.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

There's some good info in this thread. I am working on a maple and bubinga jewelry box for my wife. I was thinking of dyeing the maple, since I already know how well maple stains.


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## Loganville Tiger (Dec 23, 2012)

Another use for RIT dye- if you are a fisherman you know how braided line (Power Pro) will fade with time. Got tired of replacing just because it had turned white - bought some dark green, mixed it in a pan and thru spool and all in and left it for a good long soak. Line came out like new and color lasted quite a good while before I had to do it again.

LT


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

takamineman said:


> Good info here! Could this be used with Truoil as a topcoat or would it smear the dye?


The rit dye wouldn't smear as it dye's the wood. What you could expect is over time exposed to the sun any red dye that is in it would fade away making the wood look gray to green in color. If you used any other color of dye it might work. The chemists that make dye for wood use substances they couldn't use on cloth worn by a person as they would be hazardous. These substances make the color more colorfast.


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