# Alaskan saw mills -- do they work?



## Frankk

Hi! This is my first post -- looks like a great site.

What's the deal with these Alaskan saw mills that hook on to a chain saw? Do they work? Are they back breakers?

I was just about ready to order one (the Granberg mini saw mill) when someone with experience talked me out of it. I'm almost 60 years old; he told me it's a back breaker and VERY slow to get a few slabs cut. He said I'd regret it. :wheelchair:

But I have some BEAUTIFUL maple and oak logs that just became available to me and it kills me to just let them lay there and rot. They're in a park, so cutting them in place is the only option -- no equipment would be allowed in there.

Am I crazy to try this? Or crazy not to?
:confused1:


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## Dominick

Frankk said:


> Hi! This is my first post -- looks like a great site.
> 
> What's the deal with these Alaskan saw mills that hook on to a chain saw? Do they work? Are they back breakers?
> 
> I was just about ready to order one (the Granberg mini saw mill) when someone with experience talked me out of it. I'm almost 60 years old; he told me it's a back breaker and VERY slow to get a few slabs cut. He said I'd regret it. :wheelchair:
> 
> But I have some BEAUTIFUL maple and oak logs that just became available to me and it kills me to just let them lay there and rot. They're in a park, so cutting them in place is the only option -- no equipment would be allowed in there.
> 
> Am I crazy to try this? Or crazy not to?
> :confused1:


Yes they work. Lol yes they're back breakers. Look it up on you tube. Tons of videos. It can be slow going. If your doing a log here and there, then it's great. If your planing on doing a lot of milling, not great. I hope when I'm 60 I'll still be able to do this type of work. Those maple and oak log laying around could have some spalting.
Depending on how long they've been down. 
Is this crazy? IMO no.


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## busterswoodshop

I have worn out a couple Alaskan sawmills. If you keep your blade sharp they work good. I have been using one for more than 20 years. I like the granberg better than the Alaskan because it is made out of steel not aluminum. I have cut thousands of board feet of Mesquite with the ones I have. Almost everything I make in my shop is made out of Mesquite and I cut it all with a Granberg sawmill. 
The smaller pieces I cut on a bandsaw but anything big is cut with a chainsaw mill. 
I made the guide or track it rides on out of unistrut.

They tell you to buy a ripping chain for it but I have always just used regular chainsaw chains. They work fine , just keep them sharp. 
I can buy several chainsaw chains for the price of one ripping chain.


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## Frankk

Very helpful, thanks. I'm now thinking about it again (don't tell my wife, she thinks I'm crazy for even considering it.) :laughing: 

I'm thinking about the Granberg Small Log Alaskan mill, b/c it gives me a little more cutting lenght than a MK III -- My chainsaw only has a 20" blade.

Would you recommend the Small Log Mill over the MK III, or is the added control you get from the MK III worth giving up a few more inches in cutting length?

Alternatively, i'm thinking maybe I'd just cut the 4 edges off the logs and cart out the resulting 'beam' and then cut it into boards on my bandsaw. (Trying to find a way to save my back.) If I do that, would you recommend the Granberg Mini Mill? :huh:


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## busterswoodshop

The small mill works OK for small logs. I have cut larger logs with one by cutting down one side then the other but it does not work to well. 
I like the larger one because it holds the bar better and is easier to keep the bar from flexing. 
The large ones take more to set up and changing your chains is more work.
I think if you are going to use it a lot you should get the bigger one . 
If all you have is a 20" bar then the smaller one might be alright. 
The mill takes up quite a bit of your bar. I have one on a saw with a 36" bar and the largest log I can cut is right at 29". 
If the small mill is not true with the bar it will cut the log in a wedge shape.


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## PSDkevin

I love my CSM. As was stated above, they do work and they are back breakers. But here's my take:

For what you describe I believe (if you are physically able) you are on the right track with a chainsaw mill. The odd log or fallen tree perfect. But don't expect you are going to be sawing for money or producing loads of lumber. It is possible to do this but just a little too much work to make it worth it. IMO. 

They are kind of slow but if you are only talking about a log here or there...no big deal. I am a little younger than you but I can saw a few hundred board feet in a day working all by myself. And this includes sharpening a few times. I know this is a snail's pace compared to even an entry level band mill but for me it works cause I only cut for me and the odd log here and there. It all fits on a shelf in the garage when I'm done. 

As far as which Alaskan to get....I suggest you get the biggest capacity your pocket book and chainsaw can handle. To me it is inevitable that you will wish you got a bigger one. Ripping is pretty tough on a chainsaw. SO there is some consideration there. If you are wanting to put it on your normal home center chainsaw I would say you are better off sticking to a smaller mill. I agree with what was said before I like the ones that have brackets on both ends for the reasons stated. The small log mill looks like to me it's more for firewood or branch sized pieces. 

Ripping chain. This is just my observation. I know plenty of people who use regular chains with no problem and in fact prefer normal chains. But I like ripping chains. If you look at the design of ripping chain it has scoring cutters and chippers. Basically each tooth is not taking a full bite of wood. The saw does not have to work as hard and I get a smoother cut with a ripping chain. Once I tried a normal chain. I swapped out when my rip chain was getting a little dull. This new normal chain cut about the same as the slightly dull ripping chain. And the cut wasn't as smooth. They are a little more expensive but not that much. Just don't buy it from Granberg. Bailey's has a MUCH better price. My 151 tooth ripping chain from Bailey's cost less than $40 and I don't notice any difference in the perfomance of this one and the Granberg ripping chain. For comparison: At Bailey's, Woodland pro ripping chain is $0.26 per link for my saw. Woodland pro normal chain for my chainsaw is $0.24 per link. I'd say try both and you decide. 

You're not crazy for wanting one of these things just do your homework and know what you are getting into. Be realistic with your expectations and be prepared that CSM can be hard work. I guess I'm a sick person because I see nothing wrong with hard work. So long as it's your hobby and you're not trying to become a lumber company with the thing you're alright. I mean some folks run for a hobby and they have nothing to show for their hard work. At least at the end of your hard work you have a nice piece of wood. 

Just my humble opinion.


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## dbhost

I don't personally own one, but I have used one, along with a Stihl 20" bar saw, and a fresh chain. I was much younger, and fitter when I did use it, so YMMV, but at the time I didn't think it was much harder than using a walk behind lawn mower... Just let the saw do the work, and pull the handle... 

They do create a LOT of mess and are LOUD as all get out, hey it's a 2 stroke chain saw after all. Wear protective gear, and realize that the mess will probably need to be cleaned up since it's in a park like you said... 

I'd go out there with the saw, and the mill, and if you can, a truck, mill it, load it up, clean up as best you can and call it good...


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## PSDkevin

You're right the actual cutting is not that hard. But a decent sized saw with the mill on it does get heavy over the course of a day. Moving positioning the log the way you want, lifting the milled lumber and all of the other stuff that goes into milling in general is hard work. That is unless you have some equipment. (skid steer or something) And even then it's some work. But I get you DB, it isn't that bad. And some might even say enjoyable.


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## woodtick greg

I am a chainsaw sawyer, Works for me but I don't sell my lumber, csm it's not for everyone. Heres the pros, relatively inexpensive to start out with compared to a bandmill, but a large 80cc and up powerhead will be quite costly, $600 and up, $1000 ish. for 100cc, buy the largest you can afford. in csm power is everything! Easy to store and doesn't take up much space in your garage, shed, etc. Can even hang on a wall or shelf. Easy to maintain if you have knowledge of chainsaws. Highly portable, can cary the mill to the log and mill it where it was felled, instead of trying to move, load, and transport a large log. 36" across and up logs can weigh thousands of pounds. sharpening equipment for a chain is way less costly than for a band blade, and you can file a chain in the field. If you are milling for personal use you can obtain species that are not redaly available at a lumber yard and mill it the way you want.
The cons, csm is very very slow and extremely labor intensive. I always wonder which will wear out first the saw or me. This is what csm is like, When doing pushups go halfway down and then hold that position as long as you can! Ask yourself if you want to put that much labor into csm for a little money? It's more wastefull than a bandmill, I run a 404 ripping chain=1/4" kerf, so for every 4 boards I cut I loose one to saw dust. There will be mountains of saw dust. With long bars 3' and up you should run an aux oiler, good bar oil is getting costly $8-$14 per gallon and you will go through alot of it. Same for good quality 2 cycle oil. I'm sure that there are people that csm for sale but to me it's just so slow, labor intensive, and wastefull that it's just not worth it imo.
Now csm for personal use and for friends it's great! It's fun! It's rewarding to save a tree from being turned into firewood and make something from it. My woodstash is quite large! I never buy wood!
I am a treecycler, wood is everywhere and it's free.
______


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## MidGAOutdoor

oh yea they work alright. theyll work ya to death lol. im satisfied with mine


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## Rodney Sinclair

You got to love it. Almost 60 and wanting to run an Alaskan. My dad cut and split firewood with a mall and wedge until 91. That kind of stuff kept him going. He was slow but he got it done. I say go for it.:thumbsup:


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## kpantherpro

hey can i weigh in on this, i saw a few things missed and some that should be considered or not mention, first initail design of the mill is very crucail, single clamps designs are ok but are not as accurate as double clamp designs, the money you think your saving by buying a single clamp design will be wasted in additional sanding planing time, not to mention planer blades and sanding consumables. unless you just plan on making fenceposts I would definately suggest a double clamp design, they are safer and extremely accurate depending on the maker. thier are also options as far as double clamp designs some are portable enough to be taken to the log and still will let you leave the log on the ground these are carraige based systems and are extremely easy to use, kinda like a bandmill but with a chainsaw blade. now as far as a slabbing mill you will want to be able to raise the log to a comfortable working height, I personally use a step system with a cant hook and find it's one of the safest easiest ways to raise a log without a skid steer/loader or killing yourself. if you try and mill using a slabbing mill on the ground you'll wear your back out the first cut, just not a good angle for your body to be in. but I have milled with logs raised using my panthermill 2 for hours on end with no fatigue, you also want a mill with plenty of places to grab onto or change it up, so your not always in the same position. also transport is important as well, i've used aluminum light weight mills that were a pain to carry with the saw in them, my panthermill 2 is steel but i've carried it one handed over,under and around things all day long rested on my hip, never had to worry about nicking myself with the chain either. as far as chain everyone has their preferance some like ripping chain some will take a regular chain and sharpen to make a ripping chain, I prefer skip chain that i sharpen according to the type of wood i'm sawing as well as power of the saw, it seems to me it lets the chain work more consistant allowing for smoother cuts that will have some bandmills envious.
OK here's a shameless plug but this may help you to see some differant designs check out www.pantherpros.com I do have a single clamp(panthercub) this is recommended for quartering or fenceposts only or for rustic projects where extreme accuracy aren't crucail, next the panthermill 2 is a great slabbing mill as well as capable of making dimensional lumber, boards, beams etc. it is extremely accurate you'll find minimal to no wandering with this mill, and the last I currently produce is my pantherpro carraige system, this mill will allow you to walk beside it as it's cutting the throttle is mounted right at the pushbar and it really doesn't get much simpler or easier then that when it comes to chainsaw mills,it is also extremely accurate, all these mills will pay for themselves the first day.


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## PSDkevin

Good points panther. Based on your comments I will try out a skip chain and see how it works for me. I just wanna say that I think I would have bought one of your products had I know about you before I pulled the trigger with the other guys. Not trying to hijack the thread. Am I remembering an earlier thread correctly that you were working on mating a 4 stroke engine to one of your mills? Didn't see anything on your web site about this. (Sorry I guess I should have done a thread search before mention this)


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## PSDkevin

Shoot. Sorry. Alibi round. I was going to PM you Panther but just saw you don't have enough posts to PM. I don't know if you wanna share your email but I'd like to ask you some questions about a mill project I want to do. I am getting a welding degree and I have a project I am debating. Need someone with some expertise to help me decide if I am biting off more than I can chew. Much more but I don't want to hijack the thread as I said before. I'll shut up now. appologies to the OP.


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## kpantherpro

hey kevin go to my pantherpros.com it has all my contact info, use my e-mail or phone I haven't been getting all my messages through the contact us link. back to you Frank....


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## gemniii

Frankk said:


> What's the deal with these Alaskan saw mills that hook on to a chain saw? Do they work? Are they back breakers?


No you work them.



Frankk said:


> I'm almost 60 years old; he told me it's a back breaker and VERY slow to get a few slabs cut. He said I'd regret it. :wheelchair:


I'm over 60. I get the log raised up at an angle and the saw pushes itself. I use Stihl 660's.



Frankk said:


> They're in a park, so cutting them in place is the only option -- no equipment would be allowed in there.


In your choice of tools determine how far you have to travel with them. A 660 w/36"bar and an Alaskan Mark III, fuel etc. probably weighs 50lb. The panther pro possibly more. Then there's the weight of the wood to get out. If NO equipment (ATV, tractor, dogsled) is allowed it's heavy coming out. Maple weighs about 4 to 5lb/board foot. That 8ft, 12" wide, 2" thick slab will push 80lbs. I would not recommend cutting less than 2" thick w/ a CSM. Now if your chainsaw only has a 20" bar you will be limited in what you can cut. If it's displacement is less than 60cc it might not be worthwhile.


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## kpantherpro

i would suggest a wheelbarrow or similar to haul your things in, i agree with gemniii that you should use a saw over 60cc for maple as it is a very hard wood, I'm not sure about his 2" minimum for maple though, I know it can crack but if you dry it right it may come out all right, as far as alot of other woods/species I milled down to 1/4" x 10 oak (it did cup but didn't crack) on purpose and played around with 1/8'' it milled ok but i didn't keep it as i had no use for it, just wanted to see if i could do it.


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## woodtick greg

I mill most everything 5/4 and 10/4, seal the ends and sticker and stack, there may be some checking but my jointer is only 8" so I usually end up ripping the boards anyway. If the lumber is properly stickered and stacked with the larger boards on top for weight I haven't had much issue, except for cherry, It seems to check no matter what. At 5/4 even if it cups I can still get 3/4 boards, most of the time I get 7/8 to 1 inch. If my logs are where I can't get a truck or atv I use a 2 wheel dolly and lay the dolly down and set the board on top, lift the end of the board that's not on the dolly and the weight of the board will raise the handle as you lift it and push it where I need to go, works like a charm, even pushing 10/4 30" wide wet boards. I'm 51 yrs. old and have a bad back so I need to work smart not hard, when I get them to the truck, 5/4 i can lift, 10/4 30" wet hardwood I need help lifting into the truck.


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## FarmerJim

I'm sixty years old, with a bad back. And bought a bandmill a few years ago. Like to work with wood, have lots of trees, and am a tightwad. Preferred to buy a mill over wood. But then you need a skidsteer to go get the logs, and put them on the mill, move boards, and someplace to pile the lumber, and so on and so on. You can use a tractor with fel, and forks, but you need something for lifting. And some guys use an arch with a atv to drag logs out of the woods. See what I mean?


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## Lola Ranch

I still have my Alaska Mill and the chain saw. Not a big setup at all. I used them for re-sawing beams for timber framing projects. I used skip tooth rip chains. They only had about 1/3 as many teeth as a regular chain. That saw must be forty years old, a Homelite Super XL. It still runs.

That saw. I was felling a 24" maple in the woods just as the tree started to tip it twisted a little and I couldn't pull the saw out and had to leave in while the tree fell. When I came back I could not find my saw anywhere. Finally I saw the tip of the chain sticking out of the ground. The butt of the tree whalloped the saw so hard it completely buried it in the mucky ground. I had to pull really hard to get it out. I looked it over, started it up and went back to work. The handle is still bent.

Bret


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## gemniii

FarmerJim said:


> I'm sixty years old, with a bad back. And bought a bandmill a few years ago. Like to work with wood, have lots of trees, and am a tightwad. Preferred to buy a mill over wood. But then you need a skidsteer to go get the logs, and put them on the mill, move boards, and someplace to pile the lumber, and so on and so on. You can use a tractor with fel, and forks, but you need something for lifting. And some guys use an arch with a atv to drag logs out of the woods. See what I mean?


That's about me. I've a little 23HP tractor w/ FEL and 3pt forks. I've also got a Woodmizer LT 10 BSM.

The CSM is for taking to the woods and if need be make the logs small enough to either carry the wood or make the cants so I can drag/carry them with the tractor.

One cut on a 10' 24" wide oak log with my 660 will probably take about 5 to 10 minutes, AFTER SETUP based on stats from another web site. The second cut will take about as long. If I square the log I get about a 17" cant. The "raw" log weighs about 1800lbs, the cant would be about 1300 lbs.

Based on recent experience dragging a 1 ton log requires me to get more wheel weights for the front (I don't like doing wheelies w/ my tractor!), cut off 500lbs and I can sit in the seat.

Or if I just CSM the log in half I can halve the weight I drag. 

Now if I had a lumber company and big machines I'd ignore CSM


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## fish-n-fins

Good thread- CSMs work- I was really happy with the lumber I milled using an Echo 8000 and Pantherpro- Panther makes a great product for a great price- the design makes sense- and it works- good luck- Fnf


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## Icutone2

HF has a nice one I use with no prob. The blade that comes with it is only for set up and alignment so it cuts like crap. Got a timber wolf blade and it was like a new machine. Just my 2C worth.
Lee


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