# kitchen wall cabinet



## JohnH (Jan 24, 2009)

hello,

im going to attempt to build a cabinet in my kitchen. the space im working with is 96" high 48" wide 14" deep. i just bought a kreg pocket hole jig. im looking for some ideas and or plans. this is my first attempt at cabintry work so any help would be great.

thanks


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## jana88 (Jan 13, 2009)

We also wanted to redesign our kitchen cabinet and a great tips from Gurus here will help us a lot.


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## sausagefingers (Oct 1, 2008)

Well first off, are you trying to match with your existing cabinetry? If so, that's your best design right there. Or are you wanting something more specialized like a wine rack, or a cabinet just to hold some specific things? That will help with some ideas.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

How about a picture or two of the space you are trying to fill and the adjacent cabinets. 48" wide would make a large pantry unit. Keep in mind one thing, if you want the cabinet to go all the way to the ceiling, you need a little extra space to tip it up. When you are tipping it, it is larger than it's normal height due to the fact it's on a diagonal. Cabinet manufactures get around this somewhat by shipping the cabinet with a separate base (toekick area). Even at that, sometimes they won't fit. Don't ask me how I know.:laughing: I've had to get creative a few times bringing a large cabinet in and getting it to stand up. The kreg jig will make it easy for you to build the face frame. Just make sure when you cut up all your stock that the cuts are square, and similar pieces are the same length. Use a stop block when cutting. I usually rip all the pieces then send them in groups through the planer on edge to make them all the exact same width. I would use plywood for the sides, veneered if it shows, at least one good side if it doesn't. Go to a big box store and look at some of their cabinet displays for ideas on what you might want. Take some pics and/or brochures. No need to reinvent the wheel.
Mike Hawkins


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I like to practice on my E-cabinet drawings and so I threw something together real quick. From here you can tell me what you want to change and what type of construction you want to use and I can get you a cut list too.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Hi John, I just finished making a similar cabinet only 1/2 as wide (24") My suggestion is to make the cabinet in two tall sections joined in the middle out of 1/2" veneered plywood. This makes it easier to handle and cuts down the span of the shelves to 23" or so, 48" is too a long shelf if unsupported by a center strut, so just make it in 2 pieces anyway. You can dado the shelves in at differing heights and also each side doesn't have to be exactly the same., so things that don't fit on the right will fit on the left side...follow? I would also make 2 doors on each side, a longer one at the bottom and the shorter on the top ....breaks up the space and is easier to handle..mine is like that. As far as design goes...face frames with overlay doors is easy. The style of doors determines the
style of the cabinet, pretty much ...shaker, bead mold, quarter round. Miter the door frames so you don't have to buy a cope and stick cutters set. Rout the inside shape on all the pieces, mitre the door pieces to length and width, glue them up, and then spline the corners as I did, if you want a really strong joint. I splined the door pieces before I glued them, but it can be done afterwards as well. Easier to manage smaller pieces than a large door vertically over the tablesaw, but a jig would help here. I've also used a radial saw, (who has those anymore) to spline corners with the blade horizontal. Also make a separate base to allow for full height of 96" and to permit "tipping" into place as others suggest. A cabinet that narrow really doesn't need a "toe kick" in my opinion, but the base can be the full 48" wide, then just lift the cabinet(s) on top, either separately or both previously joined together. Granted you do you use more wood to make two units, but ease of assembly and transporting would make it worth the cost to me..suit yourself tho. Enough said...Bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I agree with *woodnthings*. Structurally much better. Hooray for your pocket jig, you really don't need it. I've never put cabinets together with pocket hole joinery. Dadoes, rabbets, glue, clamps, and fasteners if you can works great. Always did, even before pocket holes and biscuits.


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## JohnH (Jan 24, 2009)

Big Dave said:


> I like to practice on my E-cabinet drawings and so I threw something together real quick. From here you can tell me what you want to change and what type of construction you want to use and I can get you a cut list too.
> 
> View attachment 6776


 Hey dave.


thanks for the reply. thats pretty cool.basicily thats it. but what i had in mind was a little more simple. i just want to put 4 equal size doors on it. like basic panel doors. and adjustable shelving on the inside.

thanks again 


john


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

Here is one with just four doors. I like to leave the middle open so it doesn't look like a wall with doors. It gives you an area to display stuff too. If you don't want it then I can get rid of it and make it just four doors.


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## sawduststeve (Jan 11, 2009)

I guess I am a little partial to 3/4 oak veneer plywood for shelves you can take a piece of it and face it with a narrow piece of oak board and no one will ever know it is not solid oak. I always just drill holes in the cupboard sides and put pins in so the shelves can be adjusted for height. The oak plywood with oak board glued to the edges also makes a real nice yet somewhat less costly door then if you use solid wood. Good luck with the project!:yes:


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## JohnH (Jan 24, 2009)

Big Dave said:


> Here is one with just four doors. I like to leave the middle open so it doesn't look like a wall with doors. It gives you an area to display stuff too. If you don't want it then I can get rid of it and make it just four doors.
> 
> View attachment 6915


 wow

thats great dave.im changing my mind again. thats what im gonna build, or try anyway. the doors are gonna have 1/4" pannels inserts with 2" tops and sides. ( i wanted to use the correct terms, instead of tops and bottoms, but i couldnt remember them. ) Im trying to get this done before my wife has are first baby next month. we have a small house and there isnt a whole lot of cabinet space. now im starting to bable, sorry gettin a little nervous.

thanks again dave . really dave thanks

john hahn


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I do not think that you ever said for what you want to use this cabinet. Will it be a pantry to store bulk food. A mop closet? Fine china that you want to display? or what?

Do you want to build it in place? Or build it in your shop and move it inside. Do you have any wood preferences? Do you want the finish stained or painted?

I am a little late asking these questions, but I think they are important for the beginning.

G


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Hey John, 
The proper name your looking for is rail & stiles and sounds like your building a flat panel door. With that in mine cut your Rails and stiles to the proper size. Then use a rail & stile bit or bit set in the router, glue and clamp together leaving the flat panel free floating to allow for exspansion and you get a professional door with good solid joints.

















*FREE Instructions*
Click on the Instruction page
"Rail and Stile Router Bits"
to download.


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## Steve John (Aug 27, 2009)

Fixing a kitchen wall unit is an easy job. You could buy a readymade unit and then try to fix it on your own. You also need to get about 15 ½ inch screws. Make sure these screws are fat and strong.

Place the kitchen cabinet on the exact location where it has to be installed. You could use a jack or a stool to keep the cabinet in place. Drill holes on the top of the cabinet on to the walls. Make sure these holes are deep because the screws that you will place in them are going to be long and fat.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*This thread is 8 mos old!*

Any advice given now is probably useless or not needed.:thumbdown:


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

*What the.........................?????*



Steve John said:


> Fixing a kitchen wall unit is an easy job. You could buy a readymade unit and then try to fix it on your own. You also need to get about 15 ½ inch screws. Make sure these screws are fat and strong.
> 
> Place the kitchen cabinet on the exact location where it has to be installed. You could use a jack or a stool to keep the cabinet in place. Drill holes on the top of the cabinet on to the walls. Make sure these holes are deep because the screws that you will place in them are going to be long and fat.


Maybe I've missed something here.

Ed


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> Any advice given now is probably useless or not needed.:thumbdown:



Yeah, I agree with ya...but that "long and fat" stuff is pretty interesting...doncha think?


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

The July 2009 issue of Wood magazine had a good article on basic cabinet construction. They are fairly easy to build. Your pocket screw jig will come in handy for the face frames. Good Luck,
Tom


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## Justin Antwan (Sep 4, 2009)

*re*

If u have a custom mill work company in your area that makes finished trim materials typical for builders and contractors they will be able to point u in the right direction. Big box stores will probably not be able to help u. They normally are priced per square foot.They may not sell to u if u are not a contractor or if there is a custom cabinet company in your area that would be a perfect place to start.


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