# Questions and comments



## Gerald (Aug 21, 2008)

As many of you know I purchased a small band mill (EZB jr) a little while back. I have to tell you I am having a great time. I have milled cherry, ash, locust, maple and now I am working on quarter sawing a 32" sycamore. The quarter sawn sycamore looks fantastic. I have never had the opportunity to build any furniture out of sycamore so I am looking forward to the day when this stuff is dry. Not sure how many board feet I will get. I have 2 logs at 32" dia. x 6 ft long. I split the log using Darens instructions that he posted sometime ago. 
This is obviously my first attempt at quarter sawing so I am not getting anything done fast. 

Now for a few questions.......
These have probably already been discussed and if anyone can direct me to the posts that will be great. I did a search on quarter sawing but I didn't see any discussion "How do you quarter saw". I have been looking on the net for info. and from what I have found there is several different ways that guys quarter saw. 

So...How do you quarter saw?

What I have been doing is quarter the log then cut a slab ( grain is perpendicular to board face) rotate the log 90 degrees, cut a slab and then rotate back 90 degrees cut a slab then continue to repeat the process.

Another green horn question... What do you use for blade lubrication? And do you use the same lubrication for all species?
or is there something you like for a certain species?
I have heard some guys like soapy water, diesel fuel,
kerosene. I have been using soapy water but only because I don't like the idea of kerosene or diesel fuel on wood that I want to build furniture with.

With all this said I mentioned in a previous post that I must have caught a sawmill virus awhile back. I am not looking for any cure for this virus. First time I was ever happy to be sick.....:laughing:

Thanks 
Gerald


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Gerald said:


> What I have been doing is quarter the log then cut a slab ( grain is perpendicular to board face) rotate the log 90 degrees, cut a slab and then rotate back 90 degrees cut a slab then continue to repeat the process.
> 
> So...How do you quarter saw?
> 
> Another green horn question... What do you use for blade lubrication? And do you use the same lubrication for all species?


This is close to 1/4 sawn, close enough for more stable lumber than flat sawing and _some_ of the lumber is true 1/4 sawn. 

But if you want to 1/4 saw to show the best ray fleck in say oak or sycamore or get vertical grain you need to prop the 1/4 chunk on a 45 and flat saw that piece out. (I will try to dig up a picture on the mill if someone else doesn't first, I just don't have much time right now) Here is a link to read, Scott Banbury another urban logger. This is just about the perfect method IMO. http://www.scottbanbury.com/qsawmethod2.pdf

Most of the time I don't even use lube on fresh hardwood logs. On sappy softwood like pine I use a few drops of PineSol or even dishsoap to keep the sap off the blade. I never use petroleum (oil-diesel). You are going to get different answers to that question, that is just what I do. Like walnut-cedar-cherry-sycamore...I don't even lube. Something like osage-hard maple-pecan I will use just water.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

I have to add that 1/4 sawing technique is for logs that fit on the mill. A biggy that needs 1/4ered with a chainsaw first is a little different. I 1/4 it, set it on the mill bark down-"pointy side" up and slice that point (the pith) off. Then if it is still too big to make a cut at it widest part when you get it into the 45 position you need to make another cut before you get it there. Flip it bark side up and slice off however much bark/sapwood you need to make it fit. Make sense ?






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## Gerald (Aug 21, 2008)

Make sense ?

Daren, I understand what you are explaining. thanks. 

I was at the link you provided and as I was reviewing that very thought came to mind. I can't fit a log this size on the mill. 
Your second post helps clear that up. If you get time I would like to see the picture you mentioned in your first reply. 

As far as lube goes.. You mentioned not using any on certain fresh cut harwoods etc. Is there any issues that you are concerned about when using water? My question is am I looking at some other problem if I just use a little water all the time. 

Thanks for the help.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Gerald said:


> Is there any issues that you are concerned about when using water?


I guess I don't understand the question. The logs are so wet my hands (or gloves if I am wearing them) get damp from the fresh wood itself, no water/lube.

I would not take my advice as the only way :no:. I bet I am one of the few who will say no lube. I play it by ear. If the blade is getting dirty/sappy I use something to keep it clean. If it is getting hot I use something to cool it...if neither of those are happening I use nothing.


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## Gerald (Aug 21, 2008)

My question is kinda unclear. Sorry about that.

My question is does it hurt anything if I use water all the time? My mill seems to run quieter when running a little water on the blade. It don't take much but IMO it sounds smoother. 
I can't think of anything that a little extra water would hurt but thought I would ask.

So based on your last reply. I think it comes down to personal experience and what seems to work for you.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Gerald said:


> My question is does it hurt anything if I use water all the time?



Nope. The only problem I have experienced was on oak. It can have a reaction to water and steel (the blade) because of tannic acid in the wood. You may see black streaks on the wood, but they plane off after it is dry.




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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I just use straight water when I cut hard dense species. On softer species I don't use it unless I see the tension dropping, then I turn the water valve and the tension comes right back up to where I had it set. 

I should probably run it full time all the time because water keeps the blade cooler, minimizing the tendency of the blade to expand and contract. Those wild swings in tension fatigue the metal, and so thereby decrease blade life. I never use additives like soap, antifreeze, or diesel like many sawyers. Plain 'ol H20 is my choice.




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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

TexasTimbers said:


> ... antifreeze...


:whistling2:, no not in Texas...

Yea I kinda forgot about that one, I do use cheap windshield washer fluid mixed with water when it is butt cold. 







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## jim douglas (Feb 8, 2010)

I add a little dawn dish detergent to the water:thumbsup:
jim


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