# Getting the hang of it... but uh... have a few questions



## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

So I'm having a blast getting to know my lathe. Thanks for all the tips you've given me thus far. I do have a few questions though:

I'm having a hard time keeping the drive spur in the workpiece. It starts there, no problem but after several minutes, it starts spinning free and I have to crank down on the tailstock to get it going again. Eventually it gets to the point where I've worn a hole in the piece where it meets the drive spur. I have to make a trip to the band saw to take a slice off the end and start all over again. 

Also, and this is the bigger problem: How do you finish the ends where the spurs meet the piece? I've turned a few small test pieces, a mini baseball bat and tonight I took my chances trying to make a wooden mallet. I got the handle turned and the mallet itself, but I'm not sure how to finish the ends.

It's made from scrap cherry, oak and hog.


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## slatron25 (Dec 18, 2007)

That looks well done. 

When you are turning a piece between centers you need to plan for waste. Say for example, if that mallet head in you picture is 

say 4" long you need to start with a piece. 6" long. On each end of the finished piece you will have waste which you you 

turn down as small as you dare, maybe 1/4" - 3/8" in diameter. Then just use a hand saw to cut off the excess and sand it to 

clean it up. 


As far as the drive center, are you drilling a small hole for the point? Also use a mallet or a scrap piece of wood to drive the spur 

center into the piece. What type of center is it? 4 prong?


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## Biscobob (Jul 25, 2011)

On hardwood you need to cut slots in the blank for your drive spur to bite into, you shouldn't use your tailstock to put excess pressure on the piece, just enough to hold it against the spur. Ditto what Slat said about waste on both ends. 

Nice looking mallet you got there, good job. :thumbsup:


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

slatron25 said:


> That looks well done.
> 
> When you are turning a piece between centers you need to plan for waste. Say for example, if that mallet head in you picture is
> 
> ...


Ahhh ok, that makes sense, I'll start planning for that. For the drive center, I'm not drilling a hole to start with. I'm making the X with the band saw and using the four prong center that I remove and drive into the piece with a rubber mallet. Thanks!


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

slatron25 said:


> As far as the drive center, are you drilling a small hole for the point


Excellent idea! I cant believe I didn't think of this!


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## wildwood (Jan 25, 2011)

Agree with previous advice given. 

JMHO, two prong centers get a better bite and ends of spindle or bowl do not have to perfectly square. 

Majority of the time just mark out center with center finder, punch a center hole with awl & mallet than hammer in center with mallet. Occasional saw a slot for prongs with handsaw. 

My favorite two prong center:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Drive_Centers___2_Prong_Drive_Center___2_drive_center_1?Args=

Also like and have this one:
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=lathes-acc-dc-2p

Have an assortment of light & heavy duty four prong centers that collect more dust than use. 

For skinny spindles and pens use this drive center, just wish had bought carbide tip. Really need light touch.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/HSS-Lathe-Center-MT2/H5789

Shop around for best price.


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

Just another point on the loose drive spur. Are you making sure you lock down the tailstock itself? I know someone :whistling2:who didn’t do that (several times) and when they advanced the quill it would tighten (somewhat) and then the tailstock would move back very very slowly. 
I agree with Wildwood that two prong can be very good. Most are typically made for face work (bowl orientation).
For end grain be careful of pounding them in too hard or you can split the spindle along the grain.


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

Biscobob said:


> On hardwood you need to cut slots in the blank for your drive spur to bite into, you shouldn't use your tailstock to put excess pressure on the piece, just enough to hold it against the spur. Ditto what Slat said about waste on both ends.
> 
> Nice looking mallet you got there, good job. :thumbsup:


I'm the lazy type. I mark the center, punch a tiny hole with a center punch and always use the tailstock to seat the spur, then back it off a little to release pressure. Just turned 18 maple chair spindles, did not miss a beat.

I know it's bad practice, but remember I said I'm lazy. :boat:


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Thanks for all the advice! I'll give it another whirl (sorry for the bad pun) tonight.


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## wildwood (Jan 25, 2011)

Only time have ever split a spindle blank pounding my two prong or Grizzly dead center into an end of blank, when wood not the best or already cracked. If dealing with solid wood not much chance of splitting. 

Takes couple of hits with a mallet to indent wood, install in headstock, bring up tailstock and live center and snug up. Like already posted can also get by with just a center hole and snug up with tailstock and live center too.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Use a mallet to drive the spur drive into your blank. My buddy had broken two tailstock castings on his jet from cranking it trying to set the spurs. If you want to avoid all the hassle, do yourself a favor and try out a steb center on both ends. Here's a link to Penn State. They offer some generic ones that are priced quite reasonably.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC1.html

Mike Hawkins


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

firehawkmph said:


> Use a mallet to drive the spur drive into your blank. My buddy had broken two tailstock castings on his jet from cranking it trying to set the spurs. If you want to avoid all the hassle, do yourself a favor and try out a steb center on both ends. Here's a link to Penn State. They offer some generic ones that are priced quite reasonably.
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC1.html
> 
> Mike Hawkins


Thanks for the link Mike, I'll check it out. For the record, I have been driving the spur into the piece with a rubber mallet. Now I can do it with my completed wooden mallet!


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## slatron25 (Dec 18, 2007)

She's a beauty.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

firehawkmph said:


> If you want to avoid all the hassle, do yourself a favor and try out a steb center on both ends. Here's a link to Penn State. They offer some generic ones that are priced quite reasonably.
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC1.html
> 
> Mike Hawkins


Mike, I'm a little lost with that link. Would that be a replacement for the center drive? In the description, it says "Requires Jaws that close to 1/ 4" inside. Compatible with "C" series #2 and #3 Jaws"

Err Como? Do I need to pick up something else while I'm there?


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## slatron25 (Dec 18, 2007)

He might have meant this one assuming your lathe is a #2 Morse taper.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

slatron25 said:


> He might have meant this one assuming your lathe is a #2 Morse taper.


Ahhh yeah, that looks a little more like what I need I think (of course I have no real idea what I need :no:


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

You can get the same one here for $13.39
Amazon.com: PSI Woodworking LCENTSS22 No. 2 MT with 1-Inch Crown Super Wood Lathe Drive Center: Home Improvement
I have found most things from PSI is cheaper on Amazon (if it is offered on Amazon) and many times they have free shipping.


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## ronjboucher (Jun 28, 2010)

*trying to help*



Taylormade said:


> So I'm having a blast getting to know my lathe. Thanks for all the tips you've given me thus far. I do have a few questions though:
> 
> I'm having a hard time keeping the drive spur in the workpiece. It starts there, no problem but after several minutes, it starts spinning free and I have to crank down on the tailstock to get it going again. Eventually it gets to the point where I've worn a hole in the piece where it meets the drive spur. I have to make a trip to the band saw to take a slice off the end and start all over again.
> 
> ...


My 2 cents -No hitting wood onto head stock, damage bearing. Solution 7 piece multi spur drive (Penn state lcentset $110 bucks on sale 60bucks) amazon $54 bucks. End of problem for head stock, damn near bought another set. Money well spent and look how many different configeration of spur drive you get.Tail stock, Sorby 3/4 in.revolving super drive (lcenttse) 40 bucks.at Penn state. 

You may want check your tail stock during operation,could be creeping, My jet lathes did, solution I bought beefier sq, washers. fits in the track. Lite touch t/s will not budge.

Too finish end pieces try using a jamb chuck, keeps everything concentric. A little oversize (hole) use masking tape to make adjustment for nice snug fit. Ron Marietta Ga


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

ronjboucher said:


> My 2 cents -No hitting wood onto head stock, damage bearing. Solution 7 piece multi spur drive (Penn state lcentset $110 bucks on sale 60bucks) amazon $54 bucks. End of problem for head stock, damn near bought another set. Money well spent and look how many different configeration of spur drive you get.Tail stock, Sorby 3/4 in.revolving super drive (lcenttse) 40 bucks.at Penn state.
> 
> You may want check your tail stock during operation,could be creeping, My jet lathes did, solution I bought beefier sq, washers. fits in the track. Lite touch t/s will not budge.
> 
> Too finish end pieces try using a jamb chuck, keeps everything concentric. A little oversize (hole) use masking tape to make adjustment for nice snug fit. Ron Marietta Ga


Thanks for your input Ron. I'm not hitting the wood onto the spur while it's on the lathe, I'm removing the spur, then driving it into the piece. I don't have any chucks, but that's something I can definitely check into. Thanks!


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## ronjboucher (Jun 28, 2010)

*more 2 cents help*



Taylormade said:


> Thanks for your input Ron. I'm not hitting the wood onto the spur while it's on the lathe, I'm removing the spur, then driving it into the piece. I don't have any chucks, but that's something I can definitely check into. Thanks!


If I may, I do believe I have solved the how too, in holding wood and finish product in the head stock, at a reasonable price.No spindles please.

1. woodcraft sells a tap to the configuration of my spindle (jet)1 in. 10tpi
2. I like to use 1 1/2 in 3x3 sq. yellow pine as the main block.
3. Follow the direction on the tap box for drill size, the side going the head stock, I use a relieve hole so the wood sit against the spindle.
4. next I glue a piece of luan 3x3in. to the waste block

Going to make a bowl, make round and clean face and glue waste block to wood. Bowl is done even the finish only thing left is the bottom. Carefully using a parting tool 3/32 thick blade, cut into the luan till the part is severed. Note: need to glue a fresh piece of luan to waste block.

Now going to make a jamb check (mallet head) glue a piece if (w/e) to the waste block. Make hole to snug fit your turn mallet. It turns concentric, will not damage finish. and you can turn a fancy design.
Works every time, the possibilities are endless.
PS I have a small box of waste block cheaper than chucks and every thing is the way I left it nice and round and concentric, no adjustment needed. Ron Marietta Ga


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## sffone (Jun 19, 2011)

A lot of good advice here!


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

sffone said:


> A lot of good advice here!


I agree! I'll be 100% honest, though and say that I'm going to have to do some research on some of it as I'm not following a few things. 

S'alright, I enjoy the research portion of this hobby.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

ronjboucher said:


> If I may, I do believe I have solved the how too, in holding wood and finish product in the head stock, at a reasonable price.No spindles please.
> 
> 1. woodcraft sells a *tap* to the configuration of my spindle (jet)1 in. 10tpi
> 2. I like to use 1 1/2 in 3x3 sq. yellow pine as the main block.
> ...


Do you have a link for that? Sorry, I'm a little dense and am having trouble following your directions. If I see it I'm sure it will be clear.


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## wildwood (Jan 25, 2011)

Almost all woodturning vendors sell spindle taps in various sizes. Once cut threads in wood can make your own faceplates, jam chucks etc.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=lathes-acc-spintap


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## ronjboucher (Jun 28, 2010)

djg said:


> Do you have a link for that? Sorry, I'm a little dense and am having trouble following your directions. If I see it I'm sure it will be clear.


Nothing to be sorry about, google woodcraft, click on tap,picture for you and instruction on drill and taping hole in your waste block. 

Visual aid, try a sq piece of styra form, 3x3 in. sq. make hole. insert in your head stock. Other piece of foam say 6 in dia. find center move your tail stock and glue both together. Piece is ready to turn. AH, now I get it.
Repeat step one, small 4 in. disc. glue to waste block, carve out center for your mallet head, nice fit, your first jamb chuck. Jamb chuck means you insert your turn piece onto the opening you just made. I never google (how to make a jamb chuck) need to try that

Ron Marietta Ga


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