# Clamps for kitchen cabinets



## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

It looks like building some new kitchen cabinets is in my future. I'm currently in the planning stage and making a list of tools to buy over the next several months. I need more clamps and just wanted to get some recommendations on the number and lengths of clamps that would typically be needed. I'll be building wall and base face frame cabinets. There will be one approx 84" tall pantry cabinet, and the largest base cab is about 60" wide.

I do have 2 Bessey 40" K Clamps (old style) in addition to a few quick clamps. Locally Home Depot carries Jorgensen Cabinet Masters in 36" & 48" lengths. Lowes has Bessey K Revo clamps in 24", 40" & 50" lengths. Any guidance would be appreciated.


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

After 50 years in the trades before retiring I have accumulated alot of clamps. I use wood handscrews, Jorgensen F clamps, Bessey U clamps Quick grips and spring clamps. For longer clamps I have always used 1/2 " pipe clamps with a variety of lengths of pipe. My pipes are threaded on both ends so with a few couplings I can make any length I need. Just my opinion and they work for me.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Joeb41 said:


> After 50 years in the trades before retiring I have accumulated alot of clamps. I use wood handscrews, Jorgensen F clamps, Bessey U clamps Quick grips and spring clamps. For longer clamps I have always used 1/2 " pipe clamps with a variety of lengths of pipe. My pipes are threaded on both ends so with a few couplings I can make any length I need. Just my opinion and they work for me.


+1. :yes: You can get by with just pipe clamps.









 







.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

If you're making face frame cabinets, I would highly recommend getting yourself a set of these.
I've installed and built cabs for most of my career and these babies make joining the boxes a breeze.
They automatically hold them in place, flush the faces, and give you a hole to get your drill and mulling screw into.


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

I'd use pocket holes and shallow dados/rabbets with glue. It greatly minimizes the number of clamps, and speeds things up, because you don't have to worry about waiting for glue to dry.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

I hadn't thought about pipe clamps, but I expect they would be more cost effective and versatile. 

For applying the face frames to the cabinets, what dimensions for the dado / rabbet is recommended?

I had not seen the face frame clamps before. Looks like a must have for installation.


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

I forgot about the faceframe clamps that TC mentioned. Very handy. Also if you go with pipe clamps and buy couplings get them in the electrical dep't instead of plumbing, the wall thickness is alot less than the plumbing version for a lower profile.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Just want to say "thank you" to everyone for the advice.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom-G said:


> I hadn't thought about pipe clamps, but I expect they would be more cost effective and versatile.
> 
> For applying the face frames to the cabinets, what dimensions for the dado / rabbet is recommended?
> 
> I had not seen the face frame clamps before. Looks like a must have for installation.


Face frames don't have to be dadoed or rabbeted. They can just be glued and clamped to the leading edge of the cabinet. In fact...you don't even need face frames.









 







.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Yes, I know they could be built without face frames, but we have face frame cabinets now and want to keep the same appearance. (Plus I'm sure I can come up with a reason why I need some new tool for the workshop because I have to do face frames!).


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## jigs-n-fixtures (Apr 28, 2012)

Pocket hole jig?

It the easy way. Go on YouTube and watch a few of their videos.


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