# Newbie Question: Fixing crooked cuts



## pyroknoppix (May 15, 2012)

Hi there, brand new to woodworking. I recently purchased a cheap CL table saw that's seen better days. It still cuts however. I can't get the fence to stay at a perfect 90 degrees and I still need to do adjustments to the blade. My question is for future reference what major power tool would I buy to fix a crooked cut. I'm a little confused as to the purpose and differences between a jointer and planer lol.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK that's a 4 paragraph answer*

The fence is the heart of the table saw. If it won't adjust and stay parallel to the miter slot you will need to fix it...or replace it .
The blade should also be parallel to the miter slots and that's a lot more complicated to adjust, but necessary none the less.

A jointer works on the bottom of the work and creates a flat straight edge or surface.

A planer works on the top of the board that is now straight and flat and is placed good side (straight and flat) down on the bed of the planer. The planer removes everything that isn't straight and flat and makes the board a uniform dimension along it's length, straight and flat.

A crooked cut like on an edge, can be straightened with a jointer, or a hand plane working to a straight line. Or you can reset the fence properly and make another pass on the table saw. The work must be kept pressed against the fence all the way through the cut or you may have a kick back or a "crooked" cut.

There Ya go!  bill


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

pyroknoppix said:


> Hi there, brand new to woodworking. I recently purchased a cheap CL table saw that's seen better days. It still cuts however. I can't get the fence to stay at a perfect 90 degrees and I still need to do adjustments to the blade. My question is for future reference what major power tool would I buy to fix a crooked cut. I'm a little confused as to the purpose and differences between a jointer and planer lol.


Welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:

While Woodnthings tried to answer all your questions I would like to point out that more detail like type of saw (make and model ) as well as other similar details really helps get better answers. Pictures are a great for showing info that you may not realize you forgot.


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## pyroknoppix (May 15, 2012)

rrbrown said:


> Welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:
> 
> While Woodnthings tried to answer all your questions I would like to point out that more detail like type of saw (make and model ) as well as other similar details really helps get better answers. Pictures are a great for showing info that you may not realize you forgot.


Thanks Woodnthings. 

rrbrown, I'll make a cut tomorrow when I get off work and take a pic. I'm considering getting a different table saw considering the price for aftermarket fences is pricey anyways and I don't know if it would really help since the rails are just pressed steel. Feeling a $50 buyers remorse at the moment lol.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The fence being out of square is a common phenomenon. I'm sure if you could get an owners manual with maybe a exploded view of the fence you could find how to adjust it to where it would be true. Until then if when you measure the distance from the fence to the blade to make a cut, if you would also measure the distance to the miter gauge slot you can adjust the fence by hand to make it parallel with the miter gauge slot. Then It should cut good. On some saws the fence won't square up every time, even if adjusted correctly and on these it's just a habit you would have to develop. 
Like rrbrown said, if you would post the make and model number of the saw perhaps someone else has the same saw and can offer better help.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

pyroknoppix said:


> I'm considering getting a different table saw considering the price for aftermarket fences is pricey anyways and I don't know if it would really help since the rails are just pressed steel. Feeling a $50 buyers remorse at the moment lol.



Aftermarket fences come with their own rails. Some require only one in the front. They can enable your saw to be very accurate. Your present rails would be removed.

To align your saw, the blade should be parallel to the miter slot, and the fence should be parallel to both the miter slot and the blade. When doing any of the adjustments necessary, make sure the saw is unplugged, and it's best to have the blade all the way up, to get a front and rear measurement.

Neither a jointer nor a planer will correct an edge that's not 90° to an adjacent edge, under normal use. With the skills and knowledge of jig setups, it can be done, but not easily. Much easier to fix your saw fence if possible.








 







.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

For $50 off CL it can't be in good shape. Is it a large saw (like a contractors or cabinet type) or just one of those small plastic bodied bench top toys?

If its a bench top I'm afraid it will be next to impossible to align anything and keep it aligned. Also, there are no accurate fences for bench top saws that I know of.


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## pyroknoppix (May 15, 2012)

Thanks for all the help and sorry I never got back to you guys. After messing around with it for a few weeks I got to where I could almost make a square rip. However during this time period I talked my wife into letting me purchase an Ridgid r4512 and right out of the box assembled it makes perfect cuts and I could not be any happier with it.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Congrats on the saw and the wife who let you buy it. I too have an awesome wife who let me buy a new saw last summer and a bunch of other shop stuff, mostly used, but still nice. I am glad I have a great wife and a new wood shop.


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## pyroknoppix (May 15, 2012)

Paul W Gillespie said:


> Congrats on the saw and the wife who let you buy it. I too have an awesome wife who let me buy a new saw last summer and a bunch of other shop stuff, mostly used, but still nice. I am glad I have a great wife and a new wood shop.


The only stipulation for getting it is I now have to build her a free standing pantry haha.


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