# A jewlery box for my mother. First build thread ever.



## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Hey guys! Well school ended yesterday and man was I bored! So I decided I was going to make something. Earlier this year in shop a kid made a beautiful cherry jewlery box with 2 levels. It was beautiful. However I think he could have taken it alot further and made it breathtaking. So I'm going to. Here's the dimensions. It will be 11" wide by 6" high. The first level will be 4" deep and the second level will be 3" deep now for the fun part. I'm going to highlight the whole box with walnut trim. And underneath the step will be hollow. Using a system of locks and slides I'm going to make a secrete compartment for under the steps. I really think it will be cool. One thought is. Don't glue the back in. Run the dado up to the top but underneath lock it in with wood so it's solid then lock that wood in. Then she will be Abel to unlock the bottom. And take it off. She will then be Abel to slide the top of the step off opening the secrete compartment. Another one. Is to make a hinge type system so the back will
Lay back. Have a piece of wood still hiding the compartment that with a lock will be Abel to slide out of the dado opening the compartment. Let me know what you think. I'm sorry if this is confusing. Just follow the thread and it will all make sense! If you have any ideas let me know! Thanks!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Here is what the step will look like


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Here is the secret compartment.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I don't quite get it*

But here's a tip on what I do see. When you make a rabbet for the bottom make it just a smidge longer than your bottom thickness. They look a bit short. You can always remove the extra by hand planing or sanding...you can't add material on if it's too short. It will look a 1000 times better.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Nice start. That wood looks pretty thick for a jewelry box!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> But here's a tip on what I do see. When you make a rabbet for the bottom make it just a smidge longer than your bottom thickness. They look a bit short. You can always remove the extra by hand planing or sanding...you can't add material on if it's too short. It will look a 1000 times better.


That sounds right now, the box wasn't perfectly squared when I took the picture. I also cut the rabbets with a table saw blade. No dado saw available. Might go back and cut them a tad bigger. Thank you!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

sanchez said:


> Nice start. That wood looks pretty thick for a jewelry box!


Thanks! It's 3/4 thick is that too much?


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Update! Walnjt highlights on one side. The top one is not touching but I haven't sanded it yet its only like a 16th off


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

jjboozel said:


> Thanks! It's 3/4 thick is that too much?


Not necessarily, it will be very strong. If that's what you have, then by all means, you should use it.

I made one recently and it was 1/2" thick. But it took me a while to hand plane from 3/4" to 1/2".


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yes, 3/4" is too thick, in my opinion*



jjboozel said:


> Thanks! It's 3/4 thick is that too much?


I make mine not more than 1/2" and usually 3/8" or just a tad less. 
However, since you have started on this let it go as is. It will be heavy and you certainly don't need 3/4" for strength in that size.
Thinner panels and section are more "refined" looking and suit the purpose better.

Here's a link to one I built to show you the thickness details:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/keepsake-box-step-step-13808/#post107389


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

sanchez said:


> Not necessarily, it will be very strong. If that's what you have, then by all means, you should use it.
> 
> I made one recently and it was 1/2" thick. But it took me a while to hand plane from 3/4" to 1/2".


Ok. Well luckily I have my new to me ryobi planer. Should I take it down?


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> I make mine not more than 1/2" and usually 3/8" or just a tad less.
> However, since you have started on this let it go as is. It will be heavy and you certainly don't need 3/4" for strength in that size.
> Thinner panels and section are more "refined" looking and suit the purpose better.
> 
> ...


I think I understand what your saying just thinking about it in my head. Should I take it down some? I have that ryobi planer like I said above.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Here's a question for both of you. When I make my rabbets I have been using my table saw and taking off just a hair each time. I have a router with the needed bit. Should I use the router insted?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If you like a challenge, yes*

You can try it IF you think you can reduce the thickness without tear out. Once you start you have to keep going on each piece so they will match up. Your choice in the end, but I would personally.
It will be a lasting momento, so you may as well do the very best you can. 

We're here if you need more help! :yes:


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> You can try it IF you think you can reduce the thickness without tear out. Once you start you have to keep going on each piece so they will match up. Your choice in the end, but I would personally.
> It will be a lasting moment, may as well do the very best you can.
> 
> We're here if you need more help! :yes:


Very true. I think ill give it a whirl. Worst thing happens I start over. Your right. It's gunna be a lasting gift so I think I'm gunna try.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> You can try it IF you think you can reduce the thickness without tear out. Once you start you have to keep going on each piece so they will match up. Your choice in the end, but I would personally.
> It will be a lasting moment, may as well do the very best you can.
> 
> We're here if you need more help! :yes:


And thank you! I appreciate it! You guys are the best!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Real quick. Would the bottom be ok to leave at 3/4 otherwise the rabbets will be off.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*either way is fine*



jjboozel said:


> Here's a question for both of you. When I make my rabbets I have been using my table saw and taking off just a hair each time. I have a router with the needed bit. Should I use the router insted?


A 2 cut rabbet on the table saw is how many of us make them. 
A dado set is another method.
A router bit on a table is another. It all depends on what you have for tools OR what is set up on the tools you have.

I guess the method with the least amount of setup time is the 2 cut on the table saw.

A have a table saw with a "permanent" dado set and a sacrificial fence and that would be what I would use. My splitters are a pain in the collection to align so I don't want to remove them to make the 2 cut rabbet on the TS. A router table would be quick and easy.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> A 2 cut rabbet on the table saw is how many of us make them.
> A dado set is another method.
> A router bit on a table is another. It all depends on what you have for tools OR what is set up on the tools you have.
> 
> ...


What do you meen by a 2 cut. I'm doing like a 12 cut lol might try the router. I think that would work. Maybe set it up in saw horses clamp it. Then clamp the sacrificial fence on the wood to hold the router and guide it. That's how we did great big pieces that we weren't going the whole way through the piece.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

A two cut rabbet would be two cuts 90° from one another.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Hi guys! Man have I been busy!!! I got back home from the lumber yard ( $38 dollars poorer) with a 8 ft long piece of cherry and an 8ft long piece of walnut. I finished making everything for the jewelry box except for the top, I am done with cherry. Now it's all walnut. I wanted to let you know I did plane down everything to 1/2 inch except for the bottom and it looks 10 times better. I cut rabbets into both sides to allow for the step and I cut the rabbets in the front to make the face. I made the back as well. This is where I had to think about how I wanted to do this secrete compartment. Did I want it totally secrete? Or did I want a fancy secrete compartment but not Fort Knox secrete. I went with fancy. I have 2 back pieces cut. One for the true back another for the compartment I'm going to put a key and lock in there which I think will look great! Then I took some walnut, went to the table saw set it at 45 degrees and cut legs to elevate the box the legs are 3 1/8 long. Inch wide. I have been at work all day and now it's time for dinner and a fire with the family..... Mom still doesn't know what I'm doing.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Why is it I keep thinking we are all in for, 'SURPRISE'????

Wishing you well,

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Why is it I keep thinking were are all in for 'SURPRISE'????
> 
> Wishing you well,
> 
> Dale in Indy


Haha i don't know I'm sorry. Ill post pictures tomoro everything is cleaned up. Lol


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Back to work guys! Been at it since 9:00 thismorning. Have got a lot done. Here is the top. I made trim to go around it because I am
Poor and don't have router bits. Hahaha also finished the legs to elevate the box. Let me know what you think!


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Alright! Good progress. I hope to accomplish something in the shop today, too! Keep those pictures coming

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Phaedrus said:


> Alright! Good progress. I hope to accomplish something in the shop today, too! Keep those pictures coming
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


Thanks! Here ya go. First picture: is inside of the box. No dividers or walnut trim in there yet.
Second picture:


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Phaedrus said:


> Alright! Good progress. I hope to accomplish something in the shop today, too! Keep those pictures coming
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


Second picture: view from the front ps. My brother is helping me hold it. 
Third picture: view of back with secrete compartment open 
Fourth picture: secrete compartment closed 
Fifth picture: with the top on. Top looks pretty big but oh well
Sixth picture: side view of top. I have to make the dividers which will be walnut then start to sand it all down.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

These were my weapons of mass destruction. I don't have a jointer and I bought rough cut lumber so I got out my bailey #4 bailey #5 and bailey #6 also got out my Goodall jack plane they worked wonders! This is the first time I have ever actually used a plane on a real project. We're they perfectly straight? No but close enough.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Got dividers milled here it is. Everything dosent fit perfect but it will!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Back from gettin sand paper. Now to sand the rabbets and glue it up


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

jjboozel said:


> Back from gettin sand paper. Now to sand the rabbets and glue it up


Ok before I glue it I had one more operation. In the back of the secrete compartment.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

jjboozel said:


> Back from gettin sand paper. Now to sand the rabbets and glue it up


Wood burning


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Keep it up kid!*

I like your enthusiasm. :thumbsup:


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## Walleye977 (May 31, 2013)

Looking good


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Still thinking, a SURPRISE coming,

Dale in Indy


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

Here's a little tip. In the photo showing the mitered pieces of walnut, I noticed you have a slight gap. You may already know this but gaps like that are fixable. Once glued up if you still have a gap, just apply a little glue in the gap and sand it with 150 or 220 grit sandpaper. This creates sawdust which mixes with the glue and fills in the gap. Once dry it makes the gap less visible.

Not meaning to talk down to you or anything, just offering a tip. :smile:

By the way......she is gonna love it!!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Here's a little tip. In the photo showing the mitered pieces of walnut, I noticed you have a slight gap. You may already know this but gaps like that are fixable. Once glued up if you still have a gap, just apply a little glue in the gap and sand it with 150 or 220 grit sandpaper. This creates sawdust which mixes with the glue and fills in the gap. Once dry it makes the gap less visible.
> 
> Not meaning to talk down to you or anything, just offering a tip. :smile:
> 
> By the way......she is gonna love it!!


I did notice that and I was going to just sand the edge round so it would hide it. But the glue sounds like a much better idea I did run into a tiny problem. I only have 2 bar clamps. So I can only glue in stages. Well my rabbet on the bottom cracked. I think I can glue it and clamp it and it should be ok. The rabbets for the step look like hell but that's what you get when you use a table saw old table saw. I might have to remake the face. It wasn't square for some reason. Only think I can think of was that was the first peice I made Fromm rough cut also the first peice I used my bailey #5 on so that might be why. I didn't plane it straight. Here's a question for you. When you look at the lid. What's the best way to do that with only 2 bar clamps? Is it even possible???? I hate glueing with a passion all the hard work and precision can just be ruined once you drop glue into those joints. If I mess this up I'm gunna be upset. Another one. Do you have any way of hiding pin nails? I put some right into the side becuse I was worried it wasn't touching and I put one where the crack was to secure that rabbet. Any tricks to hide those heads? Thanks so much guys! I'm really critical of myself so it might not be as bad as it sounds hahaha thanks again!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Still thinking, a SURPRISE coming,
> 
> Dale in Indy


Lol like what? Cause I would love to institute a SURPRISE! Becuse I'm afraid your going to be DISAPPOINTED! Hahahahaha


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> I like your enthusiasm. :thumbsup:


+1 :thumbsup:

Your mom is going to love this for sure. And she'll be proud that she has a son who put in the time and effort to create something special for her. Keep it up, man.


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## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

jjboozel said:


> I did notice that and I was going to just sand the edge round so it would hide it. But the glue sounds like a much better idea I did run into a tiny problem. I only have 2 bar clamps. So I can only glue in stages.
> 
> I hate glueing with a passion all the hard work and precision can just be ruined once you drop glue into those joints. Do you have any way of hiding pin nails? tricks to hide those heads?


Gluing in stages is not a bad idea. It just takes longer. Clamps should always be a priority when you are buying tools. You can never have too many. Do not hate gluing, just take your time and learn the little tricks. Gluing is vital in woodworking. For me, I ALWAYS get my clamps in place first, have cauls ready, have a damp rag and/or scraper at hand to wipe the squeeze-out. Apply enough pressure but do not over tighten. Be careful the pieces do not slip when pressure is applied.

As for the pin nails, use a nail set or something with a point to drive them below the wood surface, you can either buy wood filler to fill the hole or if the hole is small enough you can use a small dab of glue and then sand over it like I mentioned previously. The sawdust will fill the hole.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> +1 :thumbsup:
> 
> Your mom is going to love this for sure. And she'll be proud that she has a son who put in the time and effort to create something special for her. Keep it up, man.


Thank you, she knows I'm making her something but dosent know what and its bugging her lol. She does so much for me it's nice to give back. It's nothing major but something I think she will enjoy for years. Right now all her jewlery sits on her nightstand beside my dads stuff. Dad knows what I'm doing but hasn't said anything hahaha.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Sorrowful Jones said:


> Gluing in stages is not a bad idea. It just takes longer. Clamps should always be a priority when you are buying tools. You can never have too many. Do not hate gluing, just take your time and learn the little tricks. Gluing is vital in woodworking. For me, I ALWAYS get my clamps in place first, have cauls ready, have a damp rag and/or scraper at hand to wipe the squeeze-out. Apply enough pressure but do not over tighten. Be careful the pieces do not slip when pressure is applied.
> 
> As for the pin nails, use a nail set or something with a point to drive them below the wood surface, you can either buy wood filler to fill the hole or if the hole is small enough you can use a small dab of glue and then sand over it like I mentioned previously. The sawdust will fill the hole.


It is indeed vital. I just don't like it becuse it can ruin the project if you mess it up. 
The 2 clamps I have I actually "borrowed" from the school 2 years ago lol ill
Give them back after this project but ill have to buy more. 
I always have clamps set to where they need and make sure I have a damp rag. What is a caul? Never heard of it.
Pin nails ill have to deal with some went sideways but I should be Abel to drive them down in. I have cherry filler.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Ok PLEASE READ! 3 BIG things. First. For the trim on the side. It would be a pain in the rear to try to get a clamp in there. Would regular superglue work for the trim and dividers? There not holding anything. Just the peices themselves. Second. How should
I clamp the top with only 2 bar clamps? 
Third..... I GOT A JOB! It's with a local construction company in his cabinet shop. Trim carpentry and remodeling are his forte. He does a lot with cabinets and a lot with remodeling I will be working 8-4:30 Monday through Saturday I am super stoked! But that means less shop time so if I don't update for a couple days don't think I just quit its because I GOT A FREAKING JOB! Hahaha I'm so excited that I got a job doing something I want to do and not fast food. Thanks for all your help guys I really appreciate it! 
~Josh


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Congrats on the job! You may now have another source to borrow some clamps over night or on the weekends. Best news is, now you'll have some cash to start expanding your toolbox.

On the trim pieces - just use some masking tape or painters tape to hold them in place while the glue sets. If you have a good fit, that's all you should need.

For the top - instead of trying to glue all four pieces at once, just glue two opposite sides at a time. You need to make sure your spacing is right on and that pieces don't slide while applying pressure, but that should work fine.

Here's a good article on using - and more importantly - making your own cauls (cheaply)!


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looking good. Like has been stated, just take your time and glue in stages. More clamps will certainly be better, but it can be done with less. I'm always waiting on glue to dry it seems. Congrats on the job. I wish I'd have had the opportunity to work with a cabinet maker, when I started on this woodworking journey of mine. I still read everything I can get my hands on, magazines, books, etc. I love your enthusiasm, keep it up. I bet Mom will love the box.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Thanks for posting your updates. Congratulations on the job!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Still thinking/waiting for a, 'BIG SURPRISE'.......

I know it's coming, wishing you well, 

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Alright guys! LET'S GET READY TO RUMBLE!!!!!! I have the day "off" although off for me means I work in my shop! Then tomorrow I am in my bosses shop. Anywho. I am remaking the face. Like I said about 5 degrees out of square and I won't have it. Now quick question for y'all. How do I glue up 45 degree miters? I have to
Glue those legs together. Would superglue or titebond2 be better? If titebond how in the heck do I clamp them? I willUpdate you throughout the day!

BIG shout out to @crosswood he sent my dad home with 4 clamps that I can use! Thanks so much!


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## CrossWood (Jun 8, 2013)

Will the clamps reach diagonally across? If so make 4 90 degree cauls and use 2 clamps across it diagonally. I am guessing the clamps won't reach with the cauls so you could finesse it without the cauls lightly pressuring the clamps while continually checking for square, and don't overtighten the clamps. They will gouge your corners since there's no cauls to protect them. Not the best way but with limited tools I know you could make it work being careful.

Sent from my Android


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*miter and bevels get confused*

In my vocabulary ....
A miter is an angled cross cut, usually 45 degrees, with the work held flat surface on the table...table saw or miter saw.

You can hold the edge vertically on the table, and cross cut at the desired angle making a bevel/miter up to the limit of the saw blade.

A bevel is a rip where the wood is held with the largest surface flat on the table saw and the blade is tilted over to the desired angle,

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10401&site=ROCKLER











There are many solutions for clamping miters or bevels in the corners. A common method requires just laying them down on masking tape, sticky side up, and folding them all into the final shape...square, rectangle segmented etc. Once the pieces are all lined up with no gaps, rubber bands made of surgical tubing or large inner tubes, can be used to tighten up the joints. A ratcheting band clamp can apply a good deal of pressure. Here are some various clamps:

http://woodworking.rockler.com/search#w=ratchet%20band%20clamp&asug=&sli_uuid=&sli_sid=

http://woodworking.rockler.com/search#w=miter clamps&asug=&sli_uuid=&sli_sid=


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> In my vocabulary ....
> A miter is an angled cross cut, usually 45 degrees, with the work held flat surface on the table...table saw or miter saw.
> 
> You can hold the edge vertically on the table, and cross cut at the desired angle making a bevel/miter up to the limit of the saw blade.
> ...


Yup this is a bevel cut. I angled the table saw blade to 45 degrees however. I am not
Making a square on half of a square. Thanks for the information I will have to find a way to clamp right enough.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Top glueing up and new face glued on. I took of the squeeze clamps left bars on.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Still thinking/waiting for a, 'BIG SURPRISE'.......
> 
> I know it's coming, wishing you well,
> 
> Dale in Indy


Give me an idea on what sort of SURPRISE your looking for. Mabey I can put it in there


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

The legs have been a topic of talk recently so I figured I would show how they would work. And how they would look. I think I'm going to round the corners off on the top. As well.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I see a problem there bud*

The legs don't run up the side far enough and will want to separate or get twisted off. I would run them up another 1" at least for more surface area. Also they raise the body of the box up too high... it looks awkward ...to me, like a lady whose high heels are too high...:laughing:

You know I'm know NOT criticizing, just suggesting. :yes:


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> The legs don't run up the side far enough and will want to separate or get twisted off. I would run them up another 1" at least for more surface area. Also they raise the body of the box up high up it looks awkward ...to me, like a lady whose high heels are too high...:laughing:
> 
> You know I'm know criticizing, just suggesting. :yes:


Ok so because I don't want to mill these all again. Becuse well I sorta like having all 10 fingers, what if I took the back to the table saw and where I cut the ledge just take it down like an inch. They are 3in legs with like a 1in ledge. So that would make them run up the box another inch and lower the box down to 1 inch off the ground. The ledge might be less then an inch also. I think I went 3/4 
I am happy your telling me this becuse otherwise I would have glued it on. You know who when you look at your own work sometimes stuff like that isn't a big deal in your eyes. So thank you!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Right! keep all your fingers!*

If these are what you have, then I don't know of a quick/easy and safe way to "lower" the ledge.
 

It doesn't look the same however. These look like there is more height above the ledge, but I could be wrong. If they are glued securely together ...... ? you could possibly just break them apart cleanly and remove the material enough to give the ledge a greater height on the bandsaw, if you have one? Working with these small pieces on the table saw is not safe, so if that's not possible, I would just saw equal amounts off the bottom to lower the box and be done with it. 

Measure from the ledge and make your marks so the ledges will all be identical heights from the bottom. Probably use a hand saw rather than a power tool, unless you have a bandsaw...? I'd go for 1/2" to the bottom of the box to the table.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> If these are what you have, then I don't know of a quick/easy and safe way to "lower" the ledge.
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/atta...-first-build-thread-ever-image-1252988393.jpg
> 
> It doesn't look the same however. These look like there is more height above the ledge, but I could be wrong. If they are glued securely together ...... ? you could possibly just break them apart cleanly and remove the material enough to give the ledge a greater height on the bandsaw, if you have one? Working with these small pieces on the table saw is not safe, so if that's not possible, I would just saw equal amounts off the bottom to lower the box and be done with it.
> ...


Well I plan on lowering it the same way I did before. Mitre gauge on the table saw. They are not glued yet so it should be simple. I do have a bandsaw but it's kind of out of order. For a while. Lol. It needs some TLC you think 1/2 inch is what I should shoot for? That's what ill put it at.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Here's what I'm talkin' about*

This box I made is kinda simialar to yours so take any ideas you wish. See how it is settled into the table, rather than looking like legs on a step stool? The little angle foot pads were a bit tricky to make, but I use a bandsaw for those kind of small pieces.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> This box I made is kinda simialar to yours so take any ideas you wish. See how it is settled into the table, rather than looking like legs on a step stool? The little angle foot pads were a bit tricky to make, but I use a bandsaw for those kind of small pieces.


Ahhh see I like that! I love how the legs come the whole way up. Also love the angled footpads. Where did you get your hinges? I
Might need ones like that.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> This box I made is kinda simialar to yours so take any ideas you wish. See how it is settled into the table, rather than looking like legs on a step stool? The little angle foot pads were a bit tricky to make, but I use a bandsaw for those kind of small pieces.


Quick question for you. Do you think I should just restart those legs and run them the whole way up the box? Or will cutting the ledge down be ok?


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Back to the tablesaw!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

New legs


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

What do yins all think?


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

The new version of the feet do look better.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Looks like your making progress. 
How about making hinges for your box?


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Yep, I am thinking more and more that YOU are going to produce the SURPRISE. 

YOU, will be a winner tooooooooo!

Keep on keeping on young fellow,

Dale in Indy


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Maybe a good idea*

I made some but didn't use them:


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> The new version of the feet do look better.


I agree.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Dominick said:


> Looks like your making progress.
> How about making hinges for your box?


Yup sure am....... And oh god...... That looks complicated....


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Yep, I am thinking more and more that YOU are going to produce the SURPRISE.
> 
> YOU, will be a winner tooooooooo!
> 
> ...


Hahahahaha I'm sorry dale but I have no idea. I have been racking my brain trying to think of
Some SURPRISE! But I haven't come up with anything yet.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*looking good*

Ok here's another suggestion. Bevel the edges of the top all around to "lighten" the look of it....less tool box ...more lidded keepsake box top.....kinda thing. Like this one:


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Well, have no fear, YOU will, I'm certain of that.

Looking better with each step,

Dale in Indy


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## CrossWood (Jun 8, 2013)

Looks awesome, great adjustment!!!!!

Sent from my Android


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> Ok here's another suggestion. Bevel the edges of the top all around to "lighten" the look of it....less tool box ...more lidded keepsake box top.....kinda thing. Like this one:
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/atta...y-mother-first-build-thread-ever-100_2649.jpg


Really like that.... But how did you do it? Router? Table saw?


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

CrossWood said:


> Looks awesome, great adjustment!!!!!
> 
> Sent from my Android


Thanks! Thanks so much for your help as well!!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*either way is fine*



jjboozel said:


> Really like that.... But how did you do it? Router? Table saw?


My pieces were beveled before I attached them. Beveled them on the table saw. I would use the table saw in your case also. If you leave a small flat to ride along the fence you should be just fine. kiss it with a sharp plane and you'll be done ... bitta bang...bitta boom.:yes:


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

jjboozel said:


> Really like that.... But how did you do it? Router? Table saw?


Router or router table would be one way if you have one available. You would use a bit with a bearing to follow the edge. You could do a simple beveled cut on your table saw was well. Another way to do bevels is with a hand plane held at an angle. I think Gideon does that on some of his table legs.

+1 on the leg height being an improvement. Keep at it!

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

The jewelry box is coming along nicely. Nice progress!


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Looking good dude! I see a lot of sandpaper in your future. :yes:

Your Mom's going to love it for sure. :thumbsup:


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Ok guys I need some help. I allredy glued that kid together. How should I bevel it? I don't have a router bit to do it.... So it looks like the table saw will be the answer. Please not I cut rabbets into the walnut. And they are pretty deep. However I do want to bevel them. How should I go about doing this? What angel should I set the saw to? What measurements will need to be made? Thanks so much!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Gunna go to the good ol trador horn and pick up a belt for my beltsander. Have to make the sides flush. Not getting anything done sitting at home that's for sure.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I'd set the saw to 45 degrees*

Make a test cut on all 4 side of a scrap the same size as your top.
put on top and look at it to make sure it looks OK.
Then do the same to your walnut edged top. There is no way around cutting into the rabbets ...unless you stop the bevels before they get into the rabbets. and you need a router or router table to do that.

I'd just saw through them at the 45 degree and accept what the joint looks like...I know it's unknown without trying it. :yes:

I see that the walnut border stands "proud" above the top surface. That tends to make the top look thicker and heavier than it really need to be. That's a decision you need to either live with or modify now. Usually when that is done there is an insert of a different wood, glass, cloth, leather, or tile etc. What did you have in mind bud?:blink:


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

I'm pretty proud of myself...... I didnt want to cut tht top. I was worried I would screw it up. Well I cut it. Only one minor blip. And that will be sanded out. As for te rabbets looks like wood putty will be my friend.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

jjboozel said:


> I'm pretty proud of myself...... I didnt want to cut tht top. I was worried I would screw it up. Well I cut it. Only one minor blip. And that will be sanded out. As for te rabbets looks like wood putty will be my friend.


Here it is


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you didn't show the ends*

I imagine there are some "missing" pieces. Rather than putty, cut some small square pieces to glue in the recesses....sand or plane to fit. It's about fixin' screw ups or in this case expected, unexpected 
issues. Show a pix of the rabbets...OK?


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> I imagine there are some "missing" pieces. Rather than putty, cut some small square pieces to glue in the recesses....sand or plane to fit. It's about fixin' screw ups or in this case expected, unexpected
> issues. Show a pix of the rabbets...OK?


Haha ya there are missing peices. I just file it with putty though. So you won't be Abel to see it.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I noticed in looking at your 'MY PHOTO' section of your sig that you show some nice pieces, did YOU make those, or were they made in your High School shop by others? 

Thanks,

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> I noticed in looking at your 'MY PHOTO' section of your sig that you show some nice pieces, did YOU make those, or were they made in your High School shop by others?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dale in Indy


In my profile? Yes I made everything that you see. Thanks for the kind words! I have done alot more however sold or didn't take pictures before I got rid of it.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

The stressful part of

Glueing the legs


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Are you SURE you aren't SANDBAGGING a bit on how to make this nice piece?????

The pieces you have made in the pictures are surely more involved than this jewelry box.

Just wondering, nothing personal, but I'm STILL thinking a SURPRISE is a coming......

Keep on keeping on,

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Are you SURE you aren't SANDBAGGING a bit on how to make this nice piece?????
> 
> The pieces you have made in the pictures are surely more involved than this jewelry box.
> 
> ...


HAHAHAHHAHAHAHA well see those were made in a multi million dollar shop. Look at the album called my highschool shop. $5000 table saw $5000 dado saw $85000 CNC router


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Are you SURE you aren't SANDBAGGING a bit on how to make this nice piece?????
> 
> The pieces you have made in the pictures are surely more involved than this jewelry box.
> 
> ...


$15000 CNC lathe $7000 lathe $6000 lathe $45000 wide belt sander..... If using a $55 planer and a $20 table saw hahahahhahaha


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Are you SURE you aren't SANDBAGGING a bit on how to make this nice piece?????
> 
> The pieces you have made in the pictures are surely more involved than this jewelry box.
> 
> ...


You never know when a surprise might jump out though...... It hasn't came to me yet but I'm thinking about it!!!!!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Are you SURE you aren't SANDBAGGING a bit on how to make this nice piece?????
> 
> The pieces you have made in the pictures are surely more involved than this jewelry box.
> 
> ...


Sorry about this rampage, I thought about making trim the way i did on the nightstand and bookbag box but don't have enough space on the table saw. We put 2 2X4s angled diagonally and ran the wood through at an angle to make that cove.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

The million dollar shop doesn't mean GREAT PIECES. 

You are in control, and even with hand tools one can turn out museum quality pieces. 

You can do it, I am very sure of that. I keep thinking you are sandbaggin us, LOL. 

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> The million dollar shop doesn't mean GREAT PIECES.
> 
> You are in control, and even with hand tools one can turn out museum quality pieces.
> 
> ...


Very true.... And I will try to upgrade it and impress you some lol.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Pretty boring guys. Just prepping to oil


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Won't be long folks, he's going to dump a MUSEUM piece upon us...... "pretty boring guys" SURE, that says a lot, I'm betting on a quality piece.

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Won't be long folks, he's going to dump a MUSEUM piece upon us...... "pretty boring guys" SURE, that says a lot, I'm betting on a quality piece.
> 
> Dale in Indy


Hahahahaha you sure have a lot of faith in me! Lol I sure hope it's a quality piece!!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

YOU, are very quiet, hope you are OK!

Hope a hand plane hasn't eaten you alive, that would hurt. 

Looking forward to seeing more progress,

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> YOU, are very quiet, hope you are OK!
> 
> Hope a hand plane hasn't eaten you alive, that would hurt.
> 
> ...


HAHAHAHAHA thanks for the laugh! I am alive! However, working 40 hours a week is rough. But when I got the paycheck it was worth it  I'm
Going to be away until Saturday afternoon I have to go to a wrestling camp. Would much rather be working on this but oh well..... But no I did not get eaten by a hand plane lol!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Enjoy the time off, taking time off sometimes is good, often such gives you time to think things out.

Catch you later,

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Enjoy the time off, taking time off sometimes is good, often such gives you time to think things out.
> 
> Catch you later,
> 
> Dale in Indy


Ya true.... Maybe I can work on that SURPRISE! Lol talk to you later, thanks for caring an thanks for following the thread!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

3 cheers for days off!!! SHOPTIME! I sanded and oiled the outside and the lid. Here is what it looks like with one coat. I'm planning on going about 5 on the cherry and mabey 7 on the walnut ( to darken it.


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok, just a tip......., take your photo's on a white sheet or white something to bring out the color/details, etc. 

Since the corner legs are dark, and the piece it is sitting on is dark, well, we can't see much. 

Still LOVE YOU though,

Dale in Indy


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Ok, just a tip......., take your photo's on a white sheet or white something to bring out the color/details, etc.
> 
> Since the corner legs are dark, and the piece it is sitting on is dark, well, we can't see much.
> 
> ...


Very true... Didn't look at pictures until after I put it away. Wasn't thinking about that! Sorry!


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

It came out really nice looking, JJ. : thumbsup:

Your mom is going to love it.


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Ok guys because I don't want to take it inside. I took some pictures outside. Here they are. Let me know what you think!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Just my opinion........, first I like it, and with that said, maybe you need to consider something on the top/lid. Maybe something close to her heart, I'm sure you can come up with some SURPRISE..

Just a thought,

Dale in Indy


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Smith Brother said:


> Just my opinion........, first I like it, and with that said, maybe you need to consider something on the top/lid. Maybe something close to her heart, I'm sure you can come up with some SURPRISE..
> 
> Just a thought,
> 
> Dale in Indy


I don't think so. 
I think it looks great the way it is. I'm sure your mom will love it as much as I do. 
You worked really hard on it and it shows. 
Well done guy!!!!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*WOW that turned out sweet!*

The color combination is great. How does the "secret" compartment work? I won't tell anyone here.... :yes:


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## Walleye977 (May 31, 2013)

Nice work looks great


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Nice work, your mom is going to be very happy!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Smith Brother said:


> Just my opinion........, first I like it, and with that said, maybe you need to consider something on the top/lid. Maybe something close to her heart, I'm sure you can come up with some SURPRISE..
> 
> Just a thought,
> 
> Dale in Indy


Thank you. And to e honest at this point I think I'm going to leave it. I don't want to mess it up at the very end. And I really don't have anything in mind that I would put there. Thanks for all your help! I greatly appreciate it!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Dominick said:


> I don't think so.
> I think it looks great the way it is. I'm sure your mom will love it as much as I do.
> You worked really hard on it and it shows.
> Well done guy!!!!


Thank you! I believe I'm going to let it stand the way it is. Thanks for the kind words. I did work a lot and I hope she likes it!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> The color combination is great. How does the "secret" compartment work? I won't tell anyone here.... :yes:


Thanks! I love the way the cherry shows off the walnut. The compartment isn't exactly secrete if you would turn it around its glaring at you. But it's more or less just like a showey compartment it is in the back but it's not really hidden. I'll get pictures later. Thanks for all your help!!


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

sanchez said:


> Nice work, your mom is going to be very happy!


Thanks I hope she will be!


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

You did GOOD, I wish you well.

Dale in Indy


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Nice job dude! Are you thinking about putting some hinges on it at some point or just let well enough alone?


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## jjboozel (Mar 11, 2013)

Taylormade said:


> Nice job dude! Are you thinking about putting some hinges on it at some point or just let well enough alone?


Thank you!! Oh no it will be getting some hinges just have to decide which ones I like lol.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

jjboozel said:


> Thank you. And to e honest at this point I think I'm going to leave it. I don't want to mess it up at the very end. And I really don't have anything in mind that I would put there. Thanks for all your help! I greatly appreciate it!


That is an important skill--knowing when something is "done". You can always keep adding or changing things, but it won't always get better and sometimes doing "more" can take away from the project or make it worse. I like the box where it is. It has been a fun build and I enjoyed following along.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Great job. I bet she is going to love it.


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