# mounting my table saw to the wall !



## saltwood (Mar 1, 2017)

I will be needing to make a number of box joints on 7' lengths. I do not have 10' of headroom, nor do I think it would be feasible to stand that size board up anyway.

Does anybody have an idea how to make a box joint in material this long? 

I am serious about the wall mounted saw btw, it's all I can come up with:smile3:

It is likely I will need to machine about 2,000 pieces, so I don't mind a major set-up.

Thanks.


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## mhhickma (Dec 13, 2016)

Wall mounted? I don't follow


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## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

You can make the cuts needed for box joints with a router.


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## Cowpokey (Feb 10, 2017)

Kerrys said:


> You can make the cuts needed for box joints with a router.


Crazy talk...I want to see a table saw mounted to a wall. :grin:

I have nothing useful to add.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

No problem, just hold my beer! :smile3:


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

When a saw is mounted to the wall, which side is out?


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

So the wall becomes the floor? Are you going to stand on the wall to move the work piece past the saw blade? Do you have an EMT on standby for the inevitable with 2,000 pieces? Is the design so unique that you have to have box, or finger, joints? Surely there must be some other joinery that will work? What are you constructing?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Tilt the bandsaw or jig it ....a 2-3" cut you can back out of it.

Wall mounted table saw...spelled correctly....DANGEROUS as Hades!!!!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I understand the concept ...*

How the cuts would be made with accurate spacing is where I get lost. When using the saw in the normal position, the work piece is indexed using a jig in the miter slots. Having the blades horizontal with the saw attached to the wall will mean you need a jig or sliding fixture to hold the work and keep it from bending downward as well as moving it accurately on the index block. It can be done, but you'll have to sort out all the issues above.

A router would be much easier as suggested. :smile3:

A different joint may be the answer....?

A radial arm saw with the blade horizontal may be a solution?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

2,000 pieces IS a major effort. 

I would use a band saw.

A router would work. You would have to clean the corners. 

George


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

box joints are typically square/rectangular "cut-outs"

depending on size/dimensions, a mortise machine comes to mind. cut clean thru, then bandsaw any remaining slot length, if needed.

the problem may be mortising bits come in an assortment of fixed sizes. if you're bandsawing the slot sides, you could make it slight wider by a blade width on each side - but 'just any ole size' may not be possible with a mortising machine.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

I can't believe nobody asked yet. What are you making with 2,000 7' long boards with box joints?


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If these are typical square box joints I would be looking at a chain mortiser type of cutter and a step and repeat carriage setup. 2000 pieces times how ever many notches is a lot of cuts so the more automated the better.


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## Jim Frye (Aug 24, 2016)

sanchez said:


> I can't believe nobody asked yet. What are you making with 2,000 7' long boards with box joints?


I did, back in post #7.


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

I hope you'll come back and tell us what you're building, because I really want to know!

In response to the original question: I'd build a horizontal mount for a router, with a 7' table. I'd also probably build it so the router moved, rather than the board, with a guide shaped like a comb. Clamp in the board, raise and lower the router until you've got the first cut made, then move to the next "tooth" to make the next cut.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

To make box joints on 7' lumber, I would use my Radial Arm Saw with a dado blade running horizontal. 
A stop will set the depth, but the spacing would have to be made manually by moving the Saw up or down. Once you make the initial "pattern", you would Saw each individual piece before adjusting the height of the Saw for the next series if cuts.


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## Dodis (Feb 25, 2013)

I would think using a dovetail jig with box joint templates would be best. Mount the jig so the router is held horizontal and the wood can lay flat on a table or supports. Of course, the router could get pretty heavy after a while, so I would get a good quality small router that could handle the work without being too big.


Or it would be an easy project for Matthias' PantoRouter.
http://woodgears.ca/pantorouter/index.html


Some dovetail jigs for examples...
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-s-complete-dovetail-jig
(I don't see any box joint templates for this one)


https://www.woodstockint.com/products/D2796
They have 1/4", 1/2" and 5/8" box joint templates


http://www.harborfreight.com/dovetail-machine-34102.html
(Cheaper copy of the Woodstock)


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

Pantorouter also sounds like the best tool mentioned to me. 

You could also invest in a small but good CNC (3k$-4k$), remount the router to a horizontal position, then jig up the table so you could quickly/repeatedly clamp each board in place (horizontally) before having the CNC cut each box joint. Clamp in place, then press "R" (for Run) on the keyboard. Once done with this job the CNC can be used for many other woodworking tasks. 

I mention this because I've already figured out all the details to do just this to make dovetail and M&T and box joint joinery for a Tiny-House project frame. From remounting the router to making a custom post processor that simplifies the needed tool path creation, to making a quick clamping jig for the 2x material used. 

4D


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