# Pen starter kit



## bailey h (Nov 2, 2012)

Can someone tell me what they think is a quality pen starter kit. I have never turned a pen before hence the starter kit. Thank you


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Personally, I would stay away from starter packs. From what I have saw, they usually contain tools that will need to be upgraded and even tools you dont even need. I would start out with the basics and then buy quality tools of what you need or want later. All you really need to get started is a mandrel or a dead center and live center and a way to square your ends so a pen mill or a disk sander. I started with my disk sander but found I couldnt get my sander to hold a true square setting so I now use a Whiteside pen mill and I love it. For a press, you can use anything. A quick clamp works well. I use my drill press with a home made insert. I have an actual pen press but I like my drill press better.


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## Tnm9304 (Jan 8, 2012)

I bought a starter kit when i got started last year and the only thing i have not upgraded or discarded is the mandrel. it worked fine as a way of getting some stuff to practice with. if i had to do it all over again i would have saved the money i used on my PSI turncrafter starter lathe package with pen turners kit and bought a better lathe and bought the items i needed as i needed them. just my ten cents.
Tim


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## nblasa (Nov 29, 2011)

I'm still pretty green at turning, but I received the Rockler pen turning kit as a gift in July and I've enjoyed using it so far. It contains the mandrel, 3 slimline kits, 3 blanks, a pen mill (that you will eventually make a handle for), slimline bushings, a drill bit. Pretty basic but I've made 6 pens on it so far, including 3 European style pens that I had to buy extra bushings for. It is definitely a beginner kit and I will probably have to replace stuff but it was a good way to jump in.


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## bailey h (Nov 2, 2012)

Well I am very green at turning. That is why I thought a kit would allow me to jump right in and then upgrade. Besides being green I'm also impatient or I just call it exited to get started. Would like to make some for Christmas if all goes well. I hate to waste $ also like was said from other replies. I will make my mind up this weekend and let ya know. Heck the new lathe won't be here for another 10 days. The cart is way in front of the horse but have to start somewhere. Thanks


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

I'm in the camp of "no kits". Just buy the mandrels you want/need and the bushings then get whatever pen kits (tips etc) you want. Make your own blanks or buy them separately from the kits. It really is cheaper in the long run because you only buy what you need.


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

I have the same question. I have not yet made any pens and am honestly not sure of what all I need. When you say a "kit" what all are you referring to? Some kits are just the pen components and others have drill bits and stuff. Also, what are the "bushings" used for? What would be helpful is just a simple list of what a person needs to make a pen. When looking at the pen kits on places like Penn State, it really doesn't say exactly what all is included and what else is needed to make the magic happen.


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## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

frankp said:


> I'm in the camp of "no kits". Just buy the mandrels you want/need and the bushings then get whatever pen kits (tips etc) you want. Make your own blanks or buy them separately from the kits. It really is cheaper in the long run because you only buy what you need.


+1, :yes:


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

Run away, and don't look back. Pen turning is very addictive..:laughing:

In all seriousness, it's a very fun, and fairly inexpensive to get started in compared to other types of woodworking. My daughter enjoys making them and she's 11 so it's something all ages can enjoy. 

A madrel is standard. You can buy standard drill bit kits that contain the most common size bits (5 or 6 bits usually). Keep in mind that with every different type pen you make, you will most likely need to purchase different bearings. I recommend you spend the money to get one of those plastic containers with the sections in it. Label your little bins with teh bearing numbers. You can also store your drill bits and just about everything else you add to your effort.

I use a standard pistol clamp to put the pens together, I haven't sprung for the set up just for pens yet. As for turning tools, I first started with just one small gouge tool and added later. There are some fancy ones out there but all you need is the one to start. 

I purchased the bank of small strips of different grit sandpaper for the finish effort. 

If you haven't already, surf Youtube for pen turning videos and you will get a few different ideas on how to get started. Good luck and be sure to post your pens as you get started. 

-Al


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Needed supplies for pen making.

Pen componants or kits: I dont really like the word kit because it sounds like you open the package and put the thing together and whala, a pen. Pen making can be almost that simple but it can also be very involved and challenging. Componants can be purchased through many venders. Some are better than others. I try not to purchase any kits made in China. Taiwan made kits are a lot better qaulity. I personally like Berea Hardwoods for ball point kits such as the Sierra and Cigar, etc and I like CSUSA for rollerballs and fountains such as Jr. Gent II's and Statesman's, etc. Exotic blanks can be a one stop shop for multiple suppliers as he carries most of the more popular componant sets, many times for less money. One place I will say to never buy componants unless they are on sale for a huge markdown is WoodCraft. They sell Berea kits and sell them for twice the cost of Berea and Exotics. Also, stay away from cheap platings like gold, even what some call "upgrade gold". Gold will wear very fast and if it is a pen that you sold, the customer is going to bring it back. I prefer plating that last such as titaniums and rhodium. If you want a gold plating, always opt for titanium gold. Chrome is also an excellent plating and is very inexpensive.

Mandrel: The mandrel is just your means of mounting your blanks to the lathe to be turned. They come in a couple differnt configurations and sizes. I like the adjustable mandrels or pro mandrels as some call them. This allows you to shorten the shaft length when doing single barrel pens. A shorter shaft helps with flex and vibration. Mandrels are sold in an A size and a B size. The A mandrel is standard. I havnt come across a situation where I have ever needed a B mandrel

Live center: Your probably thingking, well my lathe came with one of those so I'm good!! Not quite. The one that came stock with your lathe is no good for pen making. You need a 60 degree live center to match the 60 degress recess in the end of the mandrel. Your stock live center isnt 60 degrees and will allow a little movement or vibration. Another option is to get a "Mandrel Saver" type live center. This is what I prefer. It eliminates the need for the nut on the madrel and eliminates the need to adjust the mandrel for different pen lengths. It also keeps all the pressure on the blanks rather than on the mandrel so you get no mandrel flex. Theres a few of these available. I use the one from PSI but there was a thread recently that reviewed a couple of these.

Bushings: Bushings are used to hold then pen on the mandrel and to give a general referance to the finished diameter of the pen. Every kit will have its own set of bushings. Buy a means to store them in an organized way because you will aquire alot of them. Like was mentioned by another poster, I use a Plano tackle box divider thingy to store my bushings and alot of other pen supplies. When you buy componants, buy the bushings with it. I like to buy bushing from the same place I get my componants because they can vary in size and quality from place to place. So, I'm being clear, if you buy 10 Sierra kits, you dont need 10 sets of bushings. You need one set of Sierra bushings. You will need a set of bushings for every differnt type of pen that you want to make.

Center drilling vice: You need a way to hold you blank while drilling. This dosnt mean that you need a $100 specialized center drilling vice allthough some of them are very nice and I will be getting one as soon as I can put one in the budget. I currently use a home made vice that is just two scraps of 2X4 with a vertical V notch that is tightened with 2 bolts and wing nuts to hold the blank. It took all of 5 minutes to make and has served me well for nearly a year. A wooden screw clamp can also be used to hold a blank for drilling. Blanks can also be drilled on the lathe but that requires a special chuck on the lathe and a drill chuck on the tail stock and were covering basics here so I wont go into that.

Drill bits: Just about any drill bit can be used for drilling blanks but buying a standard set of drill bits will be pretty useless for pen making. The most common drill sizes I use are 7mm, 10mm, 10.5mm, 12.5mm, 25/64, 27/64 and 3/8. The 3/8 bit is the only one I would call a standard size but its still not even standard, its a long flute bit used for drilling a 4" blank for a single tube long click pen. I buy my bits like I buy my bushing, as needed when I start making a new style kit. Personally, I like WoodRiver pen makers bits from WoodCraft. They have a flute design that allows the chips to be pulled up out of the blank fast. They are a brad point bit though and many dont like those. If your going to be using standard bits, I recommend using a center drill first.

Pen mill: You need a way to square the ends of your blanks after you glue the tubes in. I used to use a disk sander and a squaring jig. This method works really well provided you can get your sander to hold a prfectly true square. Mine wouldnt. I think if you want to use the disk sander method, you almost need to have a sander dedicated to this process. The other option and most common method is a pen mill. I cant speak to what mill is best as I just started using a mill. I have the Whiteside mill and I love it. It should also be noted that you need a pilot shaft specific to the tube size of your pen, so , when you start making a new style pen, youll also have to be sure and buy a specific size pilot shaft. Some people turn a sleeve to fit the differnt tubes, I just prefer the proper pilot shaft.

Pen press: You need a way to put that pen together right? Pen componants are press fit. You can use a quick clamp or one of a thousand other ways to press your parts together. The biggest thing here is to have a way to press them together square. If your press isnt sqaure it can give you trouble and damage your tubes and blanks. I personally use a little press I made to fit in my drill press. It costs me a couple bucks to make and works incredibly well. I have an actual pen press but hate it, my drill press works so much better. The first few pens I made, I pressed together with my vice on my work bench so there are many ways to accomplish this task without buying a $50 pen press that if your like me, you wont use anyway.

CA glue or epoxy: Your tubes are glued into the blank with either CA glue or epoxy. Some swear by one while others swear by the other. I wont go into that debate, I'll just say if your going to use CA be careful with your tube and blank prep. Ive read many stories of glue failures but never a story about an epoxy failure, just sayin. I sell my pens so I dont want to deal with returns, ever. I use Loctite 5 minute epoxy. Ive never had a failure and the wait time is similar to CA so it dosnt add time to my process. Its also much cheaper than CA. IMO, CA is a finish. I use popsickle sticks or craft sticks to mix my epoxy and use the other end of the stick to insert my tube. I dont buy into the "tube insertion tool" allthough some people use them and like them.

I think this just about covers the basics assuming you allready have a lathe, turning tools and wood. There are other methods that require other tools but this will get you started. Hope this helps!!


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

While BassBlaster was typing all that, I was trying to draw a mandrel and a couple of different types of bushings so you get a picture of what it's about.

The taper fits into the headstock of your lathe.

The bushings are specific to the pen type that you're making (although some pen types share bushings, this cannot be assumed).

The ones on the mandrel in this drawing are typical for Slimline kits. They have an internal diameter equal to the mandrel diameter, which is equal to the internal diameter of the brass tubes supplied in the pen kit.

The external diameter of these bushings is your target -- turn the wood down to that diameter and it should match the pen components without a step at the join.

The two bushings above the mandrel are examples of Sierra (also called Wall St, Mesa, and Gatsby depending on the supplier).

These bushings have an internal diameter that matches the mandrel, so they don't slop around.

The smaller external diameter fits inside the brass tubes that come with the Sierra kit -- it's a bigger tube than the Slimline kit, so the tube would flop around if it didn't have this support from the bushings.

The larger external diameter is once again the target for you to turn the blank to so that it matches up with the pen components.

There can also be a knurled knob that screws onto the end of the mandrel to hold things tight, or you can get a "mandrel saver" which is a type of live center with a hole through it, the end of the mandrel slides into the hole and then the saver pushes the bits tight as you turn the tailstock handle.

Hope this helps ...


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Hey dunc, I'm going to do a copy and paste of my reply and put it in its own post so it can be used as a reference since this question comes up so often. If you dont mind, will you add your reply and your drawng to that thread please.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

BassBlaster said:


> Hey dunc, I'm going to do a copy and paste of my reply and put it in its own post so it can be used as a reference since this question comes up so often. If you dont mind, will you add your reply and your drawng to that thread please.


Sure will ... if I can figure out how to make screw threads with SketchUp, I'll thread the end of the mandrel and make a knurled nut for it too ...


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

duncsuss said:


> Sure will ... if I can figure out how to make screw threads with SketchUp, I'll thread the end of the mandrel and make a knurled nut for it too ...


 Sweet!! I cant even figure out how to accomplish what you allready drew with that program. Pretty sad for an architecture major who spent years using AutoCAD huh?


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

The "succinct" :thumbsup: description by BassBlaster and the model/image by duncsuss drives the point home quite thoroughly. I now totally "get" what the bushings are for, along with all the rest.

I had no idea that there was this much going on with turning stuff. When younger, I worked in a machine shop making products used in agriculture and also took machining in college (lathe, mill, CNC, etc). As far as lathe-work went, you hardly used anything more than a small piece of HSS made up on the grinder in the tool holder and went at it. That is unless you were on the turret lathe which had a few tools setup for repeated operations, like turning threaded stems for valves.

At any rate, thanks much for the education!


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## bailey h (Nov 2, 2012)

*wow to allof you*

Absolutly great of everyone. I might have to buy a pen from you bass for time and effort you put into the reply. Very much appreciated. answered alot of my concerns. I dont see a kit in my future now. Duncsuss picture perfect. To late to run cuttn Wud. Chicken im off to you tube to learn looks like were starting together and thanks for asking a better question.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

modified the picture ... still didn't get the screwthreads, but at least I could stick a label in there saying there should be threads :laughing:


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

bailey h said:


> Absolutly great of everyone. I might have to buy a pen from you bass for time and effort you put into the reply. Very much appreciated. answered alot of my concerns. I dont see a kit in my future now. Duncsuss picture perfect. To late to run cuttn Wud. Chicken im off to you tube to learn looks like were starting together and thanks for asking a better question.


 No big deal, just trying to be helpful. I mean, I'll still sell you a pen, lol!! I was in the same place a year ago when I got my lathe but Ive turned pens almost exclusively and Ive turned a whole bunch of em so I just wanna share info when I can. Its just nice to hear what works and dosnt and what to buy and what not from someone who has allready been there. Thats said, the way I do things isnt the only way and for you, may not be the best way. If you go to the thread I just posted called "Pen Turning Basics", Sawdust posted his tutorial and youll see that he does things differntly than me. That dosnt make me right and him wrong or the other way around. Theres just more than one way to skin a cat. The more pens you make, youll find ways that work better for you and it may be something entirely differnt from the way him or I both do it.


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## bailey h (Nov 2, 2012)

*Understand 100 %*

On the same topic do you use your own blanks, I sure see myself doing that only in the future of course dried. I ask because I have alot of walnut and sycamore right now. Since I am not buying a kit I would like to use what I have


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

bailey h said:


> On the same topic do you use your own blanks, I sure see myself doing that only in the future of course dried. I ask because I have alot of walnut and sycamore right now. Since I am not buying a kit I would like to use what I have


Sure -- I've made pen blanks by cutting up offcuts of 3/4" thick lumber (maple and cherry). And I once got some old sample pieces from the local hardwood flooring company, perfect for slicing up into pen blanks on the table saw.

And when I turn a piece of tree-trunk into bowl blanks, there's often a 1" thick slice from around the pith which might make good pen blanks when it's dried (provided it doesn't warp or crack badly).


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

I have a few blanks that are stuff that I have cut myself but for the most part all the pens I make these days are from highly figured woods and burls. Ive just gotten bored doing the same old slimlines and cigars so now I mostly do higher end rollerballs and just got into fountains. IMO those higher end kits demand a really nice chunk of wood so I buy and barter for high end blanks on another wood forum.


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## bailey h (Nov 2, 2012)

Thanks duncs. My grand plan is to turn bowls so i will remember that for sure. For now pens seem practical for a gift by christmas and that is if all goes well.


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## Al B Cuttn Wud (Oct 14, 2007)

You guys are out of control......just another reason I enjoy this site. Everyone is so willing to help each other out. Great work guys!


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## bailey h (Nov 2, 2012)

I understand bass. Im getting a lathe and turning because of boredom. I see you are in ohio also if a chance arrives I can help in a way cant wait to do so.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

bailey h said:


> Thanks duncs. My grand plan is to turn bowls so i will remember that for sure. For now pens seem practical for a gift by christmas and that is if all goes well.


This is a drawing I made earlier ... :laughing:

How I slice up a log to make 2 bowl blanks, and by removing the center slice it reduces the chances of the log checking (meaning, splitting when the ends dry out faster than the middle). You have to paint the ends with something like Anchorseal to slow down the drying process.


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## Old Air Force (Jan 14, 2013)

This thread has some great information. I am really interested in getting into pen making, and there is lots of good advice about what's needed. The one thing that is not mentioned is the lathe. Much as I would love to have one, I don't have either the space or the budget for a full size lathe. Any recommendations or the best smaller lathe ( I haven't broken the code on the difference between a mini and a midi) for pens and maybe even some small bowls? Is the extra cost for variable speed worth it?


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Welcome to WWT!:thumbsup: You'll probably get more responses by posting your own thread. Many times, people dont read old threads for some reason.

There are alot of variables in what one would call the "best". I think with all things considered though, the Delta 46-460 is the best thing going in a small to mid size lathe. Its not cheap though at around 700 bucks. Nice little lathe though with lots of room to grow for a newbie.

My lathe is a Harbor Freight cheapie. Its the 5 speed mini. Been a great lathe for a little better than a year now but I have definately outgrown it. It was around $185 out the door with a warranty. Havnt had a single issue with it other than its a bit underpowered now that I am trying to spin larger blanks on it.

VS is something that everyone has a different opinion about. I dont currently have VS and its not really a big deal to change belt speeds but I have made it a requirement in a new lathe purchase when I upgrade. I guess it really depends on the person to decide if its really worth the extra expense. For me the answer is yes, its definately worth it.


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