# kiln drying pine slab?



## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

I have been given a 12 foot by 22 or 23 inch pine slab, I think it still has the bark on what do I do with that? I want to use if for a bar top, air drying just isn't an option I don't have a large enough space to store it for the quite a few years it will take to dry. So what are my options on kilns? I'm in Northeastern Wisconsin, are kilns going to be hard to find? How do I find one? I will be sealing the ends, once I get it transported to where I am. I got the slab for free so I have some room for costs on kiln drying. Any information would be super helpful. Thanks!
- Samantha


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I only air dry my wood*

But I don't see why on a slab that size, which would be difficult to manage trucking back and forth, you couldn't make your own kiln. You Tube has many of these kinds of videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTsDhCrE56U

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_AhCyEdXUs


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

I have a truck and trailer, I can't really dry it at my place. Its for a bar my boyfriend doesn't know about. But why do you think I shouldn't kiln dry it?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I didn't know the other issues*

Just find someone with a kiln and truck it on over.... you'll be fine. :yes:


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Air drying is the BEST for stress reduction ( I AD 99% of all I cut PRIOR to kilning)...IF... I was going to speed this drying up on a slab I'd vacuum dry as a better option....it is a little more pricey BUT you wanted to skip valuable drying steps for speed!!!

Check out my website....SORRY NO PINE there though...TOO sappy for my use....oh yea DON'T forget to have the pitch set in the wood so the sap doesn't ooze out later.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

I don't really want to skip steps I just can't wait a few years for it to dry. How does one set the pitch in the wood? Maybe I should look into an oak slab or something if pine has to much sap? I'm not really sure. I just want a slab I can finish myself to use as a bar top.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

So just thought of something, I only need 7 feet the slab is 12 feet I do believe if it does check on the ends I would be cutting those off. Or should I cut it down to size before I dry it?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

SamanthaJo said:


> I don't really want to skip steps I just can't wait a few years for it to dry. How does one set the pitch in the wood? Maybe I should look into an oak slab or something if pine has to much sap? I'm not really sure. I just want a slab I can finish myself to use as a bar top.


It needs to be dried correctly rather it is pine, oak, cherry, etc., etc. There are NUMEROUS threads/articles on here where people with lack of knowledge OR just don't care OR saving money.. build with unstabilized wood/slabs and they wonder why they are having issues and want to correct it.....mmmmm too late now, it's warped, twisted, unstable, etc., etc.

IF you need to hurry...buy a stabilized slab. This eliminates 90% of the headaches, the other 10% are design and finishing. Slabs as with any wide boards have to be anchored/ built with movement in mind...THEY WILL expand and contract.

Setting pitch....I THINK??? it takes around 165 degrees for ???? hrs.

Softwood or hardwood is just a personal opinion. Either wood needs proper drying and stabilizing.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

SamanthaJo said:


> So just thought of something, I only need 7 feet the slab is 12 feet I do believe if it does check on the ends I would be cutting those off. Or should I cut it down to size before I dry it?


I would cut AFTER drying...as you said cut the checks off if you have the extra.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

I have not had much luck finding anything dried in my area, tons and tons of cut but not dried out there. I have considered ordering from online but the slabs I have found seem to be priced very very high. I only really need a 7 foot slab and at least 20 inches wide. I guess I jumped at the free slab because well it's free and I didn't think about how exactly I was going to get it dried. Does anyone here have any recommendations as to where I can look for a already dried slab?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

SamanthaJo said:


> Does anyone here have any recommendations as to where I can look for a already dried slab?


Either a well equipped lumber yard or craigslist. I wouldnt discount drying the slab you have though, if for no other reason than buying a good sized kiln dried slab would be stupidly expensive. Put together a solar drying rig or something similar, cover it with a tarp and make up a story to keep the boyfriend from getting curious.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Okay sounds like a plan. Thanks for all your help.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Okay just thought of this, shouldn't pine be dried at like 160 degrees that way the pitch set and it won't ooze pitch for years to come? Can I get a solar kiln that hot?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

SamanthaJo said:


> I have not had much luck finding anything dried in my area, tons and tons of cut but not dried out there. I have considered ordering from online but the slabs I have found seem to be priced very very high. I only really need a 7 foot slab and at least 20 inches wide. I guess I jumped at the free slab because well it's free and I didn't think about how exactly I was going to get it dried. Does anyone here have any recommendations as to where I can look for a already dried slab?


After seeing all that's involved in doing it correctly you should understand why they're expensive...overhead and knowledge isn't cheap...that's also why you find so much "green"/high MC slabs.

I only have one or two clients that I will sell "green" slabs to and one has a large kiln and the other does his own private drying for self use but has the knowledge to what is expected to be done. OTHERWISE I only sell full AD'd or KD'd...IF there is a warp issue after sale it would be due to bad workmanship in joinery not being correct for application or not finished/sealed properly.

I noticed this basic thread in finish forum....I noticed none discussed if the slab is properly dried (correct MC) prior to adding a finish...


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

SamanthaJo said:


> Okay just thought of this, shouldn't pine be dried at like 160 degrees that way the pitch set and it won't ooze pitch for years to come? Can I get a solar kiln that hot?


A cursory google search says yes. Makes sense when you think about it, temperatures in a car in the sunlight can get in excess of 120, so if you were trying to ratchet up the temps you should be easily able to get past 150


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Okay well I got the slab for free, so I was just trying to figure out how to do it myself. And from what I read mc under 12% is what to look for right? I guess I'm in over my head. I may have to rethink the whole project.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

You won't get 160 degree temps out a solar kiln in your area this time of year. 

I'm the one who buys slabs undried from Tennessee Tim. I go after drying pieces when the m.c. gets down to ~20-25%, and then I kiln them from there. Sometimes the boards don't survive and stay flat, but I have a 80ish % success rate. I throw my slabs under a blue tarp tented up and blow space heater air through it. It's a fast process (3 to 4 days).

You might check out www.milwaukeewoodworks.com He's in Milwaukee.
I hope that e-mail is correct.
Allen is a good source and I used him and his slabs when I lived n/w of Chi-town.

Personally as a bar top I wouldn't use pine. I'd step up to maple or some other hardwood that isn't too tough (oak is terrible to work on and tough) and is also more stable. Then use a 2 part epoxy as a top coating, just like many bars do. It can be bought at Lowes/Home Depot.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Just because you have pine doesn't automatically mean it's going to ooze sap. For the most part you will only have an issue with sap if it has sap pockets like this in the board.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

I found a guy in my area that is willing to dry my slab at no cost, turns out he knows my parents built the mantle for their fireplace. I am wondering tho has anyone heard of a product called envirotex lite? Its what he recommends I use. Its not an epoxy but a thicker polyurethane. Its more reasonably priced than epoxy.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Envirotex is a 2 part mix epoxy, and (last I saw) was sold at Home Depot.
If it's a 2 part mix, it's generally a resin based coating. I use it a lot. Excellent results and tough as nails over time.

It takes some getting used to. If you are thinking of trying it, there are You-Tube vids that are instructional. Tube up ''Bar top epoxy finishes''.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Oh from what I read online some is epoxy and some isn't. But ya I will research it more. Not sure how I feel about using epoxy.


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

Glad you found someone to kiln dry your slab. That will set the pitch and sterilize the wood in case there are any eggs or larvae inside that could hatch out and emerge later. A solar kiln will not stay hot enough for long enough to sterilize even 4/4 lumber, much less a slab.

Mine will reach 150 degrees+ in the summer when the sun is high but that optimum time doesn't last long. The lumber needs to reach 132 degree throughout the plank and remain there for at least four hours. I doubt a slab would ever reach that temperature at the core in a solar kiln, much less maintain it for four hours. If the kiln could rotate and track the sun, then it would probably stay hot long enough but that would be an expensive feature.

No harm in sealing the ends of the slab but it's not necessary on Pine. The sap is self-sealing. Sealed or left unsealed, however, there will be some checking on the end grain. That's a good reason to dry the entire slab and then any checking can be cut off. You will also have the entire slab available to select the best looking area for the 7' section you need.

I think that epoxy bar-top finish at Home Depot is ideal for a bar top. It will protect the wood from scratches, etc. but it will also greatly inhibit moisture exchange so the wood won't move much, if any, from seasonal humidity swings.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

So, the guy who is drying my slab is actually going to trade me for a already dry one. I took all the bark off and am going to start sanding. On the sides where the bark is what grit should I use? For the top and bottom should I start with 80 grit?


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Got pix's?


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Grit depends on a few factors.....how hard the wood is....how rough it is....how much character do you want left....was it bandsawed or circle sawn.....

1) Let's start with whether band or circle sawn....Bands are usually flatter and more uniform throughout AND requires less sanding....circle sawn usually have one or more teeth out of set (this happens also with bands) and are a little coarser in texture. 
I prefer a truer rustic and I WANT my saw marks to show some/more...and with my saw setup I normally will sand at 120 grit first to see what removes and what doesn't...IF I'm satisfied with that texture I read on my finish chosen to see what final grit I work up to. 120 will be the bottom end of required finishing grits. I've used finishes that wanted max of 120 and others wanted 220 and up.
I have had to use as coarse as 24 (NOT on pine) to grind deviations into my plan and then work up.

2) How much character....basically same as above

3) How hard the wood is AND what tools/sanders you plan on using...BUT with pine and unless changing the shape much 80 is going to be the coursest and use a palm/orbital/vibrating type sander...I use a large disc grinder IF grinding edges and corners but palm size sanders for all finishing.

OH YEAH....PLEASE post pics as you go through the steps...we LOVE to see wood being worked...I mean caressed :huh::laughing::yes:.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Yes pictures! I only have a few with the bark on, but I will get those posted. I took the bark off yesterday and will get pictures tomorrow or Wednesday. Wanted to get out there today but got called into work early. I'm super excited to start sanding. I think it was cut with a bandsaw. This slab is thicker, I'm shocked the guy traded with me. But then again he had so many slabs I don't think he really cared. But I will get pictures uploaded to computer and posted in a minute ☺


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Not the best pictures but you get the idea.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

I forgot to post last night I will be using an orbital palm sander.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Without the bark, I want to sand down some of the imperfections but I'm not sure what grit to use. Any suggestions?


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I always start out wit 40 grit and work finer as I go.
I don't have access to a planer which takes most of the roughness off and levels the surface so I use a 9" grinder to quickly flatten and smooth the top. Next I go to a palm sander with 80 grit and work it down to 120 or 220 grit. 
Pine sands easy.
As this looks now, you have what is called a "live edged" slab. Basically if you want to save that bark off look and color, use a palm sander and 120 grit to take the sides down to where you like the color and patterning.

You first, before you start , need to know the moisture content. It needs to be in the 10% range before you start with any seal coats. The only way to check this semi-accurately is to nip off an end of the log and check it for "internal" moisture content.
You can buy a cheap moisture meter at Lowes for under $40.oo


Good luck.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Okay so I sanded the top and sides down I used 120 grit for the sides and started 80 grit for top. Ran 120 once over the top. Will post pictures in a minute. This slab is 12 feet long, I will be cutting it down to 7 feet soon. So I will check moisture content at that time.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

As you can see I still have a lot of work to do. I love seeing the saw marks but would like to see more grain. Do I need to sand more with 80 grit? I like how the sides are looking, I will get better pictures of the sides tomorrow.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

This is going to be the top side of the bar. I would like to be able to see more grain. Tge under side looks awesome... but thats the under side. Its to narrow for a nice bar top.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

If you want to see more grain, you'll have to cut down more with (say) 36-40 grit, and remove the sawcut marks.
Some like to see the sawcut marks. I do on certain pieces, but if you don't cut into them it will subdue the visual effect of the grains.
It's a trade off. You can leave some in for effect.

If you have some lacquer thinner or mineral spirits, you can dampen the surface to see what it will look like finished.. It will evaporate off kind of fast. You can use water, but use it sparingly. This will give you an indication of what the top will look like with a clear coat on it.


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## Madeincanada (Jan 17, 2014)

Hi samantha, I just reat your post about the pine slab and it reminded me of a project I am working on. My slabs are still drying in my kiln but I am working on a natural edge white pine slab dining room table. I see that there have not been any posts in a while and was wondering how the project is coming along?


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

The pine slab is completely sanded, cut to size and ready to epoxy, but I'm nervous to epoxy it lol I have a friend who is going to help me but they currently have no room in their shop for my slab so that project is at a stand still. However the rest of the bar is complete minus some trim work that i have to cut yet. I will post pictures later today.


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Cant wait to see final pix's.
You'll be impressed with the epoxy. It's mostly what I use.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

So this is the base of the bar. Looks.great, now I just gotta get the top down.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

In the second picture the is the part sticking out that will be for the foot rest. That will be epoxied when I do the top


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Cool!


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Thanks! Lol so I must be crazy because I don't have this project finished and last night I ended up with two oak slabs. Both 8 ft long 4 inches thick... They have been drying for about a year. No clue what I am gonna make with them. I will post pictures later, don't want to go out in the cold just yet. Lol


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Ha.
Gets addictive doesn't it.
I also have 2 slabs in the shed I don't know what to do with, but I couldn't pass them up.


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## SamanthaJo (Nov 11, 2014)

Yes! Lol I forgot to post pictures yesterday. Here they are, not the best picture. So I was thinking that they would make awesome benchs if I got them milled down to two inches thick, maybe. Not sure, I was looking up benches for ideas and found one I really like, the second picture. I think that is pine, but I would love to be able to make some thing like that. Just don't have all the skills to do it lol


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

The bench is a simple build. You'll figure it out. Do a mock up with some corrugated cardboard in small form. Once you stare at the mockup for awhile, it'll come to you how to build it.
You could also do it in 3/4" plywood. It would how you the weak areas that need supported.

Enjoy your wood dust addiction! There is no re-hab facility for it. It gets worse. I'm restoring a 1909 farmhouse now.


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