# Chess/Checkers board



## Howard Ferstler (Sep 27, 2007)

Chess boards are a common project for both new and seasoned woodworkers. Not wanting to be left behind, I decided to build one, too, but with a new twist or two.

First, this board has no drawer to hold the pieces. It is designed to be placed on the bottom shelf under a glass-topped end table in our living room, and mostly be viewed from above, or somewhat of an angle above, and this will be done once I go get some presentable chess pieces to put on the thing.

Second, this board was not made of cherry, walnut, teak, mahogany, or any other costly woods. We live in an age that requires economy (and where less is very often more), and so the board squares were made of individual pieces of good-old select pine, with them glued to a smooth plywood under board, and with the assembly framed by thin strips of cedar that I had left over from an earlier project. Indeed, ALL of the materials (red-oak stain, urethane spray, wood, glue, and four screws to hold the mdf bottom support in place (with felt pads stuck over the recessed flat screw heads) were left overs, with the total immediate cost of the board being zero dollars.

Each square was individually cut with a Ridgid 4510 jobsite table saw with a good ripping blade and a Ridgid 1290 sliding miter saw with a good crosscut blade. If you look at the close up shot you will see no tear out at all. It pays to have a good blade. Each was glued in place and if you look at one of the pictures you will see that short, thin wood tabs (cut from tongue depressors) were inserted between the squares as the glue dried. Yes, there are 1/16th-inch-wide gaps between the squares, and those gaps are intentional. This is a statement board that has this different design approach. (My neighbor asked how I would keep the grooves clean and I told him that I own a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment that should do the job just fine.)

Each square is 3/4-inch thick, as is the plywood board they are glued to (initially oversized, but then cut down to within 1/16th inch of the edge squares), with the outer edge framed by a thin cedar strip glued in place. To give the board a nifty appearance, a small-diameter mdf base was screwed on underneath. This allows the board to seem to float above the shelf it is sitting on. 

The dark squares were stained with Minwax red-oak stain, and the light ones were not stained at all. Five coats of sprayed-on Minwax urethane wrapped up the project.

Now, all I need to do is go purchase some decent looking chess pieces.

Howard Ferstler


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Howard,
That is an interesting twist on an old project. Looks great. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Absolutely fantastic job on the board. I love it. Totally agree on the value of a good blade.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Nice concept. Beautiful project using less expensive wood.


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## cowboy dan (Apr 11, 2010)

looks very clean. your keeping it stored and all that so i don't think dust in the cracks will be an issue. finding decent pieces could prove challenging. unless you want stone. if you're not going to make them, maybe find a shop that has a computerized cnc and have them custom made.


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## TGRANT (Jan 25, 2011)

Very nice project. I'd never have thought it the wood was stained pine. Excellent materials use.


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## Kirkus (Dec 19, 2010)

I really like the opposing wood-grain direction between the light and dark squares. Really beautiful job, Howard.


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