# Refinishing Stair Treads - HELP



## Woodworking Amateur (Nov 23, 2012)

Hi all, sorry to leech off the expertise here, but I'm hoping to refinish some stairs. They are open riser, and were wrapped 360 with hideous beige carpet I have since torn off. They definitely need some wood filler.

I was hoping to stain them as dark as possible, almost black. I am wondering what type of wood it is, and what stain/sandpaper is appropriate in the circumstances!

(the unfinished wood in the middle of the photo is the stair tread)

Thanks so much in advance...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*they appear to be pine of some sort*

Possibly fir or spruce. I would paint them with a primer and then a satin black if it were me. There's too much damage and grain going on for stain in my opinion. Paint will hide all that and then the filler won't show as light spots or dark depending. JMO


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Whatever finish you use it MUST be non-skid.

I do not know what your staircase looks like nor your interior decorating scheme. Nor do I know if these are basement stairs or where they are used. However, I just cannot picture any painted stairs that will look good.

George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't know of any reason the stairs can't be filled, sanded off and finished. The fact that you want it to go dark will help because the wood looks like it was intended for carpet to begin with. The darker the color will hide more defects.

I also think the wood may be pine or fir. It was probably a construction grade of 2x12's. As far as sanding I would start with 80x sandpaper on a random orbital sander and finish with a 180x paper.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The wood could be Hemlock or Larch. You could use a matching putty, and use a dark oil base stain. For a topcoat I would use a waterbase polyurethane, one that's suitable for flooring. Just a note, that any finish has the propensity to wear with traffic.














 







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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

When sanding, it will save a lot of extra work if you start with the finest grit that will remove any scratches or marks. It takes quite a bit of sanding to remove marks left by a coarser paper. Your picture looks like spruce or pine so it's a softwood. I would try 100 grit as a start. I don't think I would go any coarser. You'll have to make that determination depending on the surface condition.

Black wood stains are often called ebony. If using an oil based stain, like Minwax wood finish, paint a moderately wet coat on with a foam brush, wait a couple minutes but not too long, then wipe all the excess off with clean rags. Dunk the used rags in water and hang them out on a laundry line to dry, then get rid of them. After allowing to dry overnight, repeat the stain process. Always best to go get a piece of spruce, sand it and try out the stain on a sample to see if you like the color. More than two applications of the stain won't help and may effect the adhesion of top coats.

You will want to use a tough top coat that stands up to abrasion, oil based polyurethane is a good choice. Thin coats are better than full wet coats. Apply one coat, allow to dry overnight. Apply a second coat. Two coats will help keep you from sanding through the varnish to the stain. Sand lightly with the grain with 220 to remove dust and goobers in the finish, clean off the dust and apply another coat or two and call it good. 

Varnished stair treads can be slippery, especially in stocking feet. Shoes will act like coarse sandpaper and grind through the varnish and stain. There are stair tread carpet pieces that come in all kinds of colors. They are just patches and let most of the wood show. They will eliminate wear and slipping, are inexpensive, easily replaced and they will quiet down the stairs nicely. Highly recommended.


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