# Magnetic Switch for Power Tools



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Several of my stationary tools have regular on-off switches to power the machine on. That means if the power goes off and gets restored, the machine will start back up. 

I'd like to replace the switches with magnetic switches to stop the machine from coming back on. I fund this one on Amazon and it got good reviews, but other magnetic switches that I've seen before are way more expensive. I know this sounds silly, but is this switch too inexpensive to be good? 


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEM2DSM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AJVD03PRD8VF4&psc=1


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Gotta say I have never seen a magnetic switch for that price. But the reviews are good and the only thing I see is the limitation of 1/2 HP, although that is somewhat arbitrary. The current draw is what's important and, at 16 amps, this is not bad. I guess for $10 it's worth a shot. I have had good luck with the few Powertec things I've picked up in the past, fwiw.

David


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

There really isn't much to a magnetic switch like this one, when there is a current sensing feature they will get higher priced, but since they have come out with the modular magnetic starters the price has rally come down, in the 70's a good mag stater was about $300-400, depending on the size and you installed thermal elements for the amp protection you needed


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

difalkner said:


> Gotta say I have never seen a magnetic switch for that price. But the reviews are good and the only thing I see is the limitation of 1/2 HP, although that is somewhat arbitrary. The current draw is what's important and, at 16 amps, this is not bad. I guess for $10 it's worth a shot. I have had good luck with the few Powertec things I've picked up in the past, fwiw.
> 
> David


Thanks for catching that HP rating thing. They do have others rated for more HP for a couple of dollars more.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

16 amps would be the resistive load max, 1/2 hp is the motor rating. Electric motors have inrush current on startup.


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## kklowell (Apr 4, 2016)

I have the Powertec switch that's listed in the "Frequently bought with this" listing, it's rated for 120 and 240, on my tablesaw and it has worked well for about 4 years. I would buy it again in a heartbeat. Twice it has worked when the power went off and back on during a cut, which I'm sure was worth the price of the thing many times over.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I'm curious - What quit working after 4 years?


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## kklowell (Apr 4, 2016)

Quickstep said:


> I'm curious - What quit working after 4 years?


Nothing... that's how long I've had that switch.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

kklowell said:


> Nothing... that's how long I've had that switch.


My fault, I read your post too quick.


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## kklowell (Apr 4, 2016)

Quickstep said:


> My fault, I read your post too quick.


Not really, I could have written it a lot clearer and said that I had installed it about four years ago and it has worked well ever since.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

kklowell said:


> I have the Powertec switch that's listed in the "Frequently bought with this" listing, it's rated for 120 and 240, on my tablesaw and it has worked well for about 4 years. I would buy it again in a heartbeat. Twice it has worked when the power went off and back on during a cut, which I'm sure was worth the price of the thing many times over.


Can you post the model you have? I bought one from Amazon and it's not the kind that keeps power off when power is restored after a power failure.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*"Safety" switches ....*



Quickstep said:


> Several of my stationary tools have regular on-off switches to power the machine on. That means if the power goes off and gets restored, the machine will start back up.
> 
> I'd like to replace the switches with magnetic switches to stop the machine from coming back on. I fund this one on Amazon and it got good reviews, but other magnetic switches that I've seen before are way more expensive. I know this sounds silly, but is this switch too inexpensive to be good?
> 
> ...


I've had two safety switches go bad on my "high end" Min Max machines, one on a bnadsaw unknown failure.... the other on the jointer/planer, my fault when it tipped ovetr on the switch. I did NOT replace either one with the $$$ factory European "safetyt" switches. Here's why. The bandsaw will coast to a stop safely of it's own accord, so no big deal. The jointer will merely just slow down and stop cutting, no big safety issue there either. Unless the power comes back on within seconds and sometimes that does happen, you will notice the lights dimming before and during so you will have time to lift off the workpiece. The lights will be your primary signal that there is a problem and you will probably have enough time to make a correction OR turn the machine off. :surprise2:

What machine would benefit from a safety switch in a home shop?
I'm not sure that any machine, except possibly the table saw would have real benefits. My table saws have a leg pad ON/OFF switch that I can bump immediately in the event of a jam or other issue. I have been known to bump them off "accidently" at the end of a pass, with no ill effects. In the event of a power failure, I would bump the saw off in lees time that it would take for the power to return. :nerd2:

It certainly won't hurt to install them on what ever tools you feel will benefit from the feature. I'm just saying they aren't for me. :|


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

My logic is usually that if the power goes off, I’m probably going to leave the machine to see why the power is out, probably leaving something on top of the machine. 

The other thing I’m interested in is that big paddle so I’m not groping for the switch if I need to turn it off in a hurry.


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## kklowell (Apr 4, 2016)

Quickstep said:


> Can you post the model you have? I bought one from Amazon and it's not the kind that keeps power off when power is restored after a power failure.


i believe it is this one https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4...75&sr=8-4&keywords=power+tool+magnetic+switch


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Grizzly has the same D4160 switch much cheaper and you can download the instructions for wiring it, apparently Amazon does not include the instructions from what I gather.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110V-Paddle-Switch/D4160


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## kklowell (Apr 4, 2016)

FrankC said:


> Grizzly has the same D4160 switch much cheaper and you can download the instructions for wiring it, apparently Amazon does not include the instructions from what I gather.
> 
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/110V-Paddle-Switch/D4160


Much cheaper? I just looked at them both and the Amazon one was 5 more, but has the Prime shipping (if you're a member of Prime) so it arrives in two days. I wonder how many instructions one needs to replace a switch.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

My old Delta bandsaw has a 1.5 horsepower motor attached, running on 120v. The switch on it is old, with two rectangular buttons. They are very firm to push on and off. The off switch is too firm for my comfort, and a small target, especially in an emergency situation. I don't like it. I don't know if the switch and the junction box on the bandsaw are the originals, but they are old.

I looked at the POWERTEC 71054 120v magnetic power switch, but it was rated for 1/2 horsepower. 

The shopping website referred me to the POWERTEC 71007 110/220v paddle switch. It is designed for up to 2 horsepower, so I ordered it. I installed it this morning. I tested it, and to my surprise I discovered that it is an ordinary switch, NOT a magnetic switch. I checked the shopping website, and I missed the fact that it is not magnetic. 

The on switch and STOP paddle switch are still very firm, but the paddle is a much needed improvement. Because the switch is attached to a bandsaw and not a table saw, I can live with the fact that it is not magnetic. If power goes out when I am using the bandsaw, I can deal with it, and I don't think it represents a serious threat. If there is an emergency where a family member must disconnect power, I am not concerned that they would connect it up again. 

Here are a few of my own observations about the POWERTEC 71007 110/220v paddle switch:

* The back of the switch has four small recessed screws with copper pads below them. The screws are too small. Wrapping the appropriately thick wire around each screw and then pinching the wires under the screws is much more challenging than it should be. I don't like the design.

* The faceplate and paddle are separate from the rest of the switch. The faceplate/paddle and the rest of the switch are screwed together with a lock washer and nut. You must disassemble them so you can run a screw through both of them to the junction box. It was awkward to hold the assembly together while trying to get the two screws through to the corresponding holes in the junction box.

* The supplied screws (with lock washer and nut removed) weren't long enough, and the threads were too large for the junction box that was on the bandsaw. I found two longer screws of the correct size, and used the "screw keepers" from the original switch to hold the faceplate/paddle to the switch while I attached it to the junction box.

* Others reported problems fitting the POWERTEC 71007 inside standard junction boxes. The switch fit inside the junction box that was attached to my bandsaw with no problems. Others say that they had to search for a deeper than normal junction box.

P.S. The POWERTEC 71007 was packaged in a transparent plastic bag. That's all you get. There is no instruction sheet, no wiring diagram, no nothin'. The technical drawing and wiring diagram are on their website, but it is very sparse. You are expected to know how to wire it on your own.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I discovered the same things that Tool Agnostic just described so well. 

On Amazon in the “Answered Question” section, the first question is “If the power goes off while the saw is running, does the tool stay off after the power is restored?” and the answer is “yes”. I later learned that answer isn’t accurate. 

The back of the switch has “line” next to one set of screws and “load” next to the other. That was enough for me, but there are no other instructions. Maybe since it’s not really a magnetic switch, instructions or a wiring diagram aren’t so much needed. 

All the other things Tool Agnostic said about it are spot on. The screws are too small and it’s a bear to get lined up into a box. 

I’m still looking for a magnetic switch for my 220v 3hp Tools. If someone knows of one, please let’s us all know.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Quickstep said:


> [...] On Amazon in the “Answered Question” section, the first question is “If the power goes off while the saw is running, does the tool stay off after the power is restored?” and the answer is “yes”. I later learned that answer isn’t accurate. [...]


The real problem is that the "Yes" is the first and only answer that people see. They must click on "Show more answers" to get the correct response. I tried correcting it with a comment, but it doesn't show. Lacking any alternative, I reported it as "abuse". It is not abuse, but hopefully someone at Amazon will notice. 

That's probably how I got fooled into expecting the model 71007 to be a magnetic switch when it is not.

-> Perhaps others can follow my lead and report that one answer as abuse. By doing so, I hope Amazon will remove the erroneous response. I may try calling Amazon about this issue to see if I can get a person to remove the incorrect response.


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## Stevedore (Dec 28, 2011)

I had one of the Woodstock mag switches on my Delta Contractor saw. Worked well, and added some safety in the event of a power loss. The switch I had started buzzing for no apparent reason, and although it still worked OK, I feared that it would somehow magically start the saw unexpectedly, so I replaced it. The replacement buzzed as soon as I installed it, so I returned it to Amazon. (Actually, they refunded me & told me I didn't have to return the old one.)

I replaced it with another similar looking switch, but it's not a mag starter type. I do like the safety aspects of the large "stop" paddle though. Very handy when I'm holding a workpiece with both hands & don't want to let go until the blade stops.

I do have one of the Woodstock mag switches on my bandsaw, & it still works fine (without buzzing) after several years.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

kklowell said:


> Much cheaper? I just looked at them both and the Amazon one was 5 more, but has the Prime shipping (if you're a member of Prime) so it arrives in two days. I wonder how many instructions one needs to replace a switch.


If you have a Harbor Freight close by that you can walk into why pay more at Amazon even with free delivery?

Probably more people than you think need instructions, whether they follow them or not is another story. :smile2:


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

*One more time... with a new question*

I bubbling this up one more time with a new question.

I Found a magnetic switch on Amazon that is rated 16 amps - 1/2HP.

I want to use it on my router table with a router that's rated 15amps - 3.5 HP
Obviously, the HP of the router is well above the rating of the switch, but I seem to remember that HP ratings on universal motors aren't the same as on induction motors. 

Bottom line - will this switch work on my router table?


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## GuitarPhotographer (Jun 26, 2015)

Quickstep said:


> I bubbling this up one more time with a new question.
> 
> I Found a magnetic switch on Amazon that is rated 16 amps - 1/2HP.
> 
> ...


Well, 3.5 HP is not 15 A in anyone's real world. 1 HP ~ 735W, so 3.5 HP would need to draw 25.7 A. Not gonna happen out of a 120 VAC household outlet. The 3.5 HP is no doubt peak rating with the motor at full stall, just before the breaker trips.

I would find a switch that is rated at 18-20A. The price difference isn't that great, I think I paid $39 for the 17A rated switch I put on my router table.

My $0.02 worth


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I haven’t had any luck finding a 20a, 25a or 30a magnetic switch. 

I was googling “router table switch” and found several options, but none rated higher than 15a. 

Then, I checked the draw on my router table when spinning free as well as under load. When it’s just spinning and not in use, it draws 15 amps. With a big bit and pushing hard, it draws 20a. 

I was really hoping to find a paddle switch for the bigger “off” target.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

The problem may be that there are low voltage and high voltage magnetic switches, in simple terms with the low voltage type the power goes to the switch so perhaps 15 amps is the limit for that design, high voltage style switches are connected to a separate box that the voltage goes to and the switch only activates the box.


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## Lovegasoline (Sep 27, 2009)

I’ve got a Delta contractor’s saw from around 1990 and it had a tiny metal toggle switch with terrible ergonomics and inconveniently located.

I was going through a safety upgrade recently and was researching replacement a latching type paddle safety switch and bought one off Amazon (just the switch, I had to source the box locally, one of the gray exterior waterproof receptacle boxes). I mounted it at the front just behind the fence and it works well (and fascinating to see 28 years of ingrained table saw habit I'm still keep reaching for the old switch which is no longer there). 

Btw, when I was researching this I saw one implementation where instead of hardwiring the switch the guy drilled out the back of the switch box and installed a single receptacle, then he _plugged_ in his table saw into the receptacle, which was controlled by the paddle switch. In this way he could unplug the table saw and plug another tool into the paddle switch … it could be useful for example if you have a table saw extension/router table or use other tools on top of your tablesaw ... you could use the same paddle switch for multiple tools. A little bit of extra flexibility.

There’s another product I came across in my research (in a discussion about devices that satisfy OSHA's equipment regulations for protecting machinery from automatically restarting ... there's more ways this could potentially happen than I'd thought*) that’s not an on/off or paddle switch, but it’s an anti-automatic restart device called a ‘JDS Sensing Saf-Start®’ (http://www.jdsproducts.com/)(https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/ecatalog/N-bi5Z1z0euo2). You can get a hardwired version or a plug-in version (I got the latter). They retail for about $150 but when I was looking they could be found new on ebay for about $25- $35 (YMMV). You plug (or wire, depending on the version) the tool into it and if you lose power it prevents the tool from restarting … there’s a status button you can press on the device and it will audibly buzz which means you need to first shut off the tool’s power switch; turning the tool’s switch to ‘off’ resets the Saf-Start device and allows the tool to subsequently be turned back on. I can’t speak to the design of the electronics and/or the longevity, however I’ve read several reports of the cheap paddle switches failing.

I’ve frequently blown breaker switches and am sometimes left in a dark shop with no power … sometimes the first instinct is to reset the breaker … without turning machinery switches off. Probably a good idea to get some sort of battery powered safety light also.

*PS: some OSHA safety snippets on the JDS website:
http://www.jdsproducts.com/osha.cfm


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

Where on earth do you guys all live that the power grid is that unreliable? I spend what the War Wagon says is an inordinate amount of time in my shop, and have done so for fifty years. I cannot ever remember a power outage while I was operating a power tool. Have I just been blessed? I have had a breaker trip a couple of times, but it was due to overloading the tool. So, the first thing I did was unload the tool. Then I reset the breaker. I was well out of harms way no matter what could have happened. 

The only tool that I give special treatment to is the drill press. I won't use a drill press that doesn't have a foot switch. Seems foolish to take my hand off the work to shut off a stalled drill bit. My mill drill does not have a foot switch but the work is held by mechanical means. I can run!

A paddle switch could be convenient in some applications, but having never experienced a restart issue, I can't justify the ten bucks. We use an anti restart device at work called the "Safety Gate". It is a device that plugs into the receptacle and then the tool plugs into it. It was about the best thing we could find that was convenient, reliable, and satisfied OSHA workplace requirements. 

https://shop.safetygatestore.com/


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Took a look at the Safetygate website - no ratings shown on any of the products?


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

a "magnetic switch" will have a latching relay (or contactor) integrated into the start/stop circuit. when power is lost, the latch is pulled off and power supply circuit is opened, cutting off the power lines to the equipment. 


there is not voltage or amp threshold for this type of design. Matter of fact, I think all larger motor start/stop circuits employ this design practice.


you're right, switches that don't operate that way shouldn't be sold implying they have that safety feature.


try researching magnetic motor starters:
https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-188...324563&sr=8-5&keywords=magnetic+motor+starter


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

TimPa said:


> a "magnetic switch" will have a latching relay (or contactor) integrated into the start/stop circuit. when power is lost, the latch is pulled off and power supply circuit is opened, cutting off the power lines to the equipment.
> 
> 
> there is not voltage or amp threshold for this type of design. Matter of fact, I think all larger motor start/stop circuits employ this design practice.
> ...


All true, but that latching relay has to have a hp & amp rating, and 120/240 spec. Putting a 120 designed circuit on 240 will let the smoke out. I've built a number of these including ones that also sense current draw and shut off on over current. Also have made some that use a small latching relay that controls a SSR. Good part about the latching relay design is the actual switch can be a light duty one.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

TimPa said:


> a "magnetic switch" will have a latching relay (or contactor) integrated into the start/stop circuit. [...]
> 
> [...] you're right, switches that don't operate that way shouldn't be sold implying they have that safety feature. [...]


There are two separate and distinct "safety features" that we have been discussing. One is the magnetic switch feature. If there is a power failure, then power is blocked to the tool 

The other safety feature is having a large target to hit when you want the machine OFF NOW.

I settled for the non-magnetic switch for my bandsaw. I bought it to replace the small, difficult-to-push switch. I appreciate having the large target for off.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

Tool Agnostic said:


> There are two separate and distinct "safety features" that we have been discussing. One is the magnetic switch feature. If there is a power failure, then power is blocked to the tool
> 
> The other safety feature is having a large target to hit when you want the machine OFF NOW.
> 
> I settled for the non-magnetic switch for my bandsaw. I bought it to replace the small, difficult-to-push switch. I appreciate having the large target for off.


I have been reading this thread just fine. In my case, I was speaking to the OP's original post.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

i like the big stop target and thought of getting a few in my shop of the non-magnetic type. this switch is the best of both worlds 

for those of you having problems with box size. they make a metal or plastic 4x4 box trim ring that will work for single gang devices. available at lowes or hd


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Let me complicate the question:

Does anyone know of a good safety switch that includes a removable key to prevent little ones from turning on the machine?


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Tool Agnostic said:


> Let me complicate the question:
> 
> Does anyone know of a good safety switch that includes a removable key to prevent little ones from turning on the machine?


Grizzly has several types - one takes a padlock, another has a removable plastic "key".

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Safety-Paddle-Switch/G8988


http://www.grizzly.com/products/Toggle-Safety-Switch/D4163

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Safety-Locking-Switch/D4166


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

I'm having a hard time with the logic that, if the power were to fail for some reason, the first thing I'd do is just throw my arms up in the air and completely shut down my safety focus of the operation to find out what in hell happened. The VERY FIRST thing I'm going to do (and this has happened only twice that I remember) is stop moving my hands. Then I'm going to shut off the equipment (a paddle switch can come in handy for this, but it isn't necessary). And then I'm going to clear the tool. And finally I'm going to find out what caused the outage. This is all going to happen in three to five seconds. I never leave a tool without it being secured.

When I was learning to fly, my instructor beat into my head day after day "First you fly the plane. Then you attend to whatever else is going on around you". I have lived by those words for most of my adult life now. The worst thing anyone can do is lose focus of what they are doing when something, anything instantaneously or intensely distracts you. Lights out is a great example.

I always take a couple seconds to go over what I'm about to do, and what could happen when I do it (it only takes a few seconds to do a what if). On the table saw it's something like, turn it on, let it spool up, set the front edge of my work on the table, snug it up against the fence, make sure I'm just a wee bit to the left of the stock, slowly begin the feed process, scan my hand, fence, blade, other hand, blade, fence, work piece, hand, other hand, stop cut and insure good hold down while picking up push device if needed, put push device in place, slowly begin feed again, etc... All this is done with very little actual brain power. What is done with brain power during all of this is- what will I do if the blade stalls? What will I do if the stock kicks back or begins to lift off the table. What will I do if the lights go out or the circuit breaker trips?

Most all of us have performed power tool operations countless times without mishap. It has probably become basically second nature to just turn the saw on and rip a board down to size. However, a couple seconds to do a "what if" can go a long way toward preventing leaving your table saw loaded when the power goes out. 

Paddle switches are a nice, convenient addition to your equipment, but your brain is the best addition to add to your equipment. Mag switches are little more than an excuse not to think, and they have more things to go wrong with them than a simple manual switch anyway. Unless you have a heavy load that requires a robust set of contacts to handle inrush current and opening arc quenching, a starter is unnecessary. 

Pay attention in your shop.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Shop_Rat said:


> Mag switches are little more than an excuse not to think, and they have more things to go wrong with them than a simple manual switch anyway.


Todays cars have more things to go wrong with them than simpler times when all they had were manual brakes and manual steering. I'll choose safety built in, rather than have to think about anti skid procedures like pumping the brakes. If the car in the other lane has lane assist to alert the driver he is drifting into my lane, I'm all for it.

Magnetic switches do not discriminate, they protect everyone, the well trained and the not so well trained.


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## David Nickell (Jul 6, 2020)

For tools where I'm concerned about needing to turn it off while both hands are occupied I use a deadman foot switch. That doesn't help with the original question about power coming back on, but if the power goes off my first inclination is to turn the machine off. If anything unexpected happens, my first impulse is to turn the machine off.


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

"Todays cars have more things to go wrong with them than simpler times when all they had were manual brakes and manual steering. I'll choose safety built in, rather than have to think about anti skid procedures like pumping the brakes. If the car in the other lane has lane assist to alert the driver he is drifting into my lane, I'm all for it. "

Absolutely and completely different and mostly irrelevant to this conversation. Anything that happens in or to an automobile has the propensity (and probability) to hurt or kill innocent bystanders, or to damage or destroy innocent people's property. Your table saw will hurt only you if you screw up. But just for the sake of argument:

I just bought a brand new vehicle with all the bells and whistles, and after using the myriad "safety" features, I submit that automobile accidents will actually uptick when most people have those amenities at their disposal. No longer do you have to pay much attention to your lane. No longer do you have to pay attention to closing rate while in cruise control mode. My vehicle even steers itself to keep me centered in my lane. Kids will learn to drive with the knowledge that they need not pay nearly as close attention as they should. And they won't.

I find lane assist to be one of the most dangerous features of my new "safe" automobile. The computer centers my car where IT wants it to be, not where it should NECESSARILY be. I can override it, but it does take some steering wheel force and the computer is not very happy when I do that. If I stayed centered in my lane on Interstate 94 out of Chicago and was not paying careful attention, I would die by the 18 wheeler (or larger) rig that doesn't stay in his lane... and this would happen often. So I keep that feature turned off and pay absolute attention to my vehicle position. Not everyone will do that. I stay as far left as practical when near a big rig just in case the idiot drifts, or steers over. This idiocy happens more than once to me almost every day to and from work. There are literally hundreds of those big trucks on that road at any given moment, and thousands every day. But enough about that.

Using a stationary power tool (or really any tool) should be your sole focus, from the time you turn it on, until the time it has spooled down to a dead stop. Period. If you can't, or won't focus your complete attention to the business at hand, you have no business operating a power tool. And no device, whether in the name of safety or convenience, is going to prevent you from having an event sometime if you don't pay attention. Upgrading or relocating a switch or control that makes it more convenient to access or improve your overall ergonomics is quite desirable, but installing a device because you are to lazy, or unable to stay focused is just asking for trouble. Know that I feel the same way about tools like the Saw Stop.

Please note that "you" doesn't reference any particular person(s), it is meant in general terms. I am not targeting anyone in this conversation; we are all "you".


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

i can't think of anytime i was working in my shop with a power tool and the power went out
but... if it did go out, i'd run around and turn all my tools on and invite my family into the shop
oh the look on their faces when the power comes on 

obviously i don't do any of that, i like paddle switches for convenient off, magnetic switches are a little overkill in my shop. if the power goes off while your using the table saw, turn the switch off. it's that simple. if you forget, _you probably have other issues_


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