# Shop Fox table saw value?



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

Is a shopfox W1677 with 26" fence rails in nice condition a good deal at 700.00 or is it just an average price used?

thanks


----------



## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

I would say average, most woodworking gear should go for half of what it was worth new, at least that's how I see it. Seeing the saw retails $1300 its close. Make him an offer and see where it goes. Times are tight for most people so good deals can be had.........


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

thanks for the reply. Yes, I offered 700 he said he'd do that if I was first with money. I'm just not thinking it's a steel anyway. It would be a real stretch for me right now to spend that kind of money. I would if it was a steel but if not I'd let it pass.

these and the grizz 1023 go for this range regularly don't they?


----------



## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

I paid $1300 for that Shopfox model with 7' rails a year ago I like the saw. The Grizzley is close to the same saw I had the 1023 before this one. Grizzley has excelant tech/customer support but only a one year warranty. I got the shop fox locally and it has a 2 year warranty. I know the longer rails are nicer and if I'm not mistaken they had told me just the rails to replace the shorter ones were $85 here locally. $700 might not be that bad, I personally would rather the 3hp cabinet saw over getting a hybrid with less hp. That's just my opinion.

I'm not sure you will get it much cheaper especially if it is in good condition. Why is he selling it and what is nice shape ?


----------



## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

I do agree its not a bad deal, but it isn't a great deal. I would say if it had the 7' rail that would make the deal sweeter.


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

It was his brother-in-laws whom died last year. I didnt go see it, but he said it had little use. 

I just took a huge pay cut so this would really be a splurge. I recently bought a new Ridgid 3660 new at HD and could return it still in box. I got it for 380.00 out the door! The Ridgid is cost neutral since I sold my old sears cont. saw and some other gear for what the Ridgid cost. No money out of pocket.

If you guys think this is about average for a used cabinet saw of this level, It may be better for me to use the Ridgid for a couple years and then upgrade. Im only a novice weekend wood warrior.

thanks for any further thoughts.


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

Ok new imfo!!!!

I just low balled him at 600 and he agreed. What do you think now?

Should I go for it???


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That's the saw I bought new last summer. It's a 3hp industrial style cabinet saw....same as a Grizzly 1023SL, but white (both companies are owned by the same guy). That's the kind of saw that should last several lifetimes. 

My first saw was a compact Delta 36-600 mini contractor saw. 2nd saw was a nice GI 50-185 full size contractor saw. 3rd was a Craftsman 22124 hybrid....the SF is my 4th, and I hope last. Buy your last saw now. 


They run ~ $1300 new. If it's in good shape, it's a nice buy....doubt it'll last long! 

Note that you'll need 220v to run it.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

$600 is a sweet deal! :thumbsup:


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

thanks guys. I'm going to do it!!! Wagoo!

Only thing is I don't have the garage with 220V. But,,,, it's in the laundry room right through the door. That's not ideal but doable I guess right?

How much would it cost me to get somebody to run 220v do you think?


----------



## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

That makes it a very nice deal. If its on the other side of the wall, just rig an 220 extension cord that will plug into the dryer outlet till you get some scratch together for the home wiring. You can by 10 gauge extension 220 wire at HD or Lowes for relatively cheap, then you would just need the plug. The 220 wouldn't be hard to wire into the garage but if you don't know what your doing then hire it out.


----------



## john5mt (Feb 27, 2009)

wayy to much

you can buy a brand new cabinet saw for 1050


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

john5mt said:


> wayy to much
> 
> you can buy a brand new cabinet saw for 1050


Sounds to me like has a "nearly new" cabinet saw for $600. A brand new one would cost him ~ 75% more for a green version of the same saw.


----------



## clarionflyer (Apr 27, 2008)

Just run all the 240 line yourself. It'll take someone (in the know) just a couple of minutes to hook it up in the box. Have an electrician friend over for a couple beers (hopefully after he hooks it up) :laughing:.


----------



## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

clarionflyer said:


> Just run all the 240 line yourself. It'll take someone (in the know) just a couple of minutes to hook it up in the box. Have an electrician friend over for a couple beers (hopefully after he hooks it up) :laughing:.


If the beers come first, get the camcorder out, may get you $10,000.:laughing:


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

I got the saw all cleaned up and the rails mounted for the fence. I had to spend a few hours just cleaning it up. It looks great now.
I made an extension cord to run to my drier outlet until I get the garage wired 220. I'm going to have to let the dust settle with the wife for getting this thing in the first place first though.:no::laughing: 

The fence rails are 7ft with a side table. He didn't realize that was a nice upgrade. He listed it as having the 26" rails.

Anyhow. I've cut only enough to test, but it's spot on in accuracy. It's smooth and quiet. I'm really going to love this saw.

As far as the nickel test... well it falls over as the blade is winding down, but stays up when I turn it on. All I know is that it has tremendously less vibration than my old sears cont. saw had so I'm happy with that.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

No worries about the nickel test.....first off, nickels vary in width and squareness depending on wear. Secondly, the shimmy from shutdown is caused by "regeneration" of the motor capacitors, not saw vibration, and is pretty common. Some remedy regeneration by placing small resistors across the cap, but it's a "non-issue" that doesn't require an "actual fix"! :thumbsup: Better off making dinner for your wife! :laughing:

BTW...what blade are you using?


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

I've only made a few test cuts with it so far. I just used the blade that was on it. I cannot read the name on it because it's warn off. It almost looks like it says Hitachi, but I didn't know they made blades. It's hard to tell.

I have a Freud blade I'm going to put on it today.


----------



## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

What is this "nickel test"?


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

ScottyB said:


> What is this "nickel test"?


It's a precise table saw diagnostic test kit. For just $24.95, I'll mail you a nickel to stand on edge on your saw from start to stop...if it stands, you have a table saw and a nickel....if it falls, you still have a table saw and nickel. :laughing:


----------



## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

ScottyB said:


> What is this "nickel test"?





Some would state that if a saw is "good" enough, one should be able to set a nickel up on end and start the saw then stop the saw without the nickel falling over.


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

Here's the new used saw! Everything is ready to go except the mobile base and a splitter needs to be installed.

thanks all, and forgive my shared garage space in background!!


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

more


----------



## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

Nice find, there should be some outrigger legs for that extension.


----------



## Joeslake (Mar 3, 2009)

Yes,, this guy doesn't know anything at all about these saws and doesn't know where the legs could be. I'll have to fabricate some or find some.

It doesn't act like it's "tippy" at all though.


----------

