# Ridgid TS2424 Upgrade and restoration



## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

Hello everyone -

After getting such helpful advice on my thread about purchasing a table saw, I thought I'd continue my restoration process with the support of the board. Seems like I will be better off going step by step with you guys to check my work. With that in mind, here is my first batch of upgrades:

http://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_products.htm#3096
Pulley and link belt set
Zero Clearance insert
http://www.ptreeusa.com/mjsplitter.htm
Think kerg micro jig splitter

Also

An irwin 24t Marathon rip blade
I have a nice 40t combination blade and I plan to ask for a few more for xmas.

I got some miter slot sized umhw strips to build my miter sled out of too...the store on the website is five minutes from work and is an amazing place...i have a feeling I will be making many pilgrimages there.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

I started disassembly last night and began scouring the tabletop with steel wool and mineral spirits since I had them on hand. However, that is proving wholly insufficient as you can see in the pics, so it's off to pick up some sandpaper of the proper grit and use the method toolguy showed me in this video:





Progress pics so far


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

Hmmm...can't get a couple of the pics to post for some reason.

base and stand have been simple-green cleaned as well, shop vac and blow gun from air compressor and a steel wire brush have come in pretty handy as well. need to take the blade off and get down in there for some extra cleaning too


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

I'm liking the orange Halloween theme.

:smile:


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## mn pete (Dec 10, 2010)

I've got the same saw and it runs like a champ. I've got the Rockler version of that thin strip rip jig and it is an excellent investment. I also added zero clearance inserts a few years back, but I do need to add a spliter solution.

I bought my saw new, many, many years ago, so it's still in good shape. Good luck on the restoration!


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## nbo10 (Jan 26, 2011)

I have the same saw. It works pretty good. I haven't done much upgrading yet. I'm in the process of making and extension table and cc sled. Be sure to get the craftsman mitre slot material, as the slots on the table are .75”. even with thr undersized material I need to take a few thousandths off with the plane to make em run smooth. Not hard to do with uhmw material, but aluminum would be a different story.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

JimHTP said:


> Hmmm...can't get a couple of the pics to post for some reason.
> 
> base and stand have been simple-green cleaned as well, shop vac and blow gun from air compressor and a steel wire brush have come in pretty handy as well. need to take the blade off and get down in there for some extra cleaning too


try to remove the insert that sits in the table in front of the blade before cleaning continuing to work on the table top. that insert is a great aid for aligning cuts, provided it's used as specified in the ridgid OM for that saw. remember to use wet/dry sandpaper with the MS. good luck.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

I used steel wool with the mineral spirits, and last night I went to HF and bought metal sandpaper for the 150 grit and wet/dry in 220-800 or so grit. Also got a rust dissolving product that works pretty well.

The orange theme is an accident lol. Crappy galaxy nexus camera and fluorescent lights in the garage bouncing off tons of rust sure gives it an orange patina though. 

This time I put down some rust dissolver and block sanded with 150 about 3 separate times. Between the 2nd and third I laid paper towels soaked in rust remover over the table for about an hour. That worked so well that after the third sanding I did it again and coated the extensions, wrapped it all in plastic and left it sitting until I can do it again tonight. Thinking I'll switch to the 220 wet/dry paper and move up the chain from there. Got some 3m scouring pads too for cleaning the fence.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

I haven't gotten the thin rip jig yet, thats just where the link directs for some reason.

I noticed my umhw strips had to be leveraged in there and wouldn't really slide, but I assumed this was due to rust build up. Hmmm...any suggestions on how to evenly trim them down? I don't own any planes and buying another tool just to do that is somewhat out of the question.

That evaporust works really well btw. you can see the difference in the table just from one sanding pass and the dissolver on there, though i forgot to take pics after laying the towels down and sanding again the first time. Quite a bit of rust came off very easily from the last pic of my post from yesterday to the pic from my first post today


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Its coming along nicely despite the orange tint. :thumbsup:

You have way more patients than I do. My saw had a lot of rust when I got it and my solution was a wire brush on an angle grinder to knock down most of it then sanding with 600 wet/dry paper and mineral oil and finally scouring with the mineral oil and a kitchen scotch brite pad.

Took about 3 hours and the rust was gone. I ended up with a nice smooth surface without using smelly chemicals or waiting overnight. From the initial rust removal all I've ever done is keep it cleaned with scotch pads and mineral oil followed by either T-9 when putting it up for long periods or Top Coat once a week when in use.

Once a saw gets rusted, its a constant battle to keep the rust away. So be prepared to put that saw on a regular schedule of cleaning and maintenance.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

> You have way more patients than I do. My saw had a lot of rust when I got it and my solution was a wire brush on an angle grinder to knock down most of it then sanding with 600 wet/dry paper and mineral oil and finally scouring with the mineral oil and a kitchen scotch brite pad.


If I was going to do it over again, I would do this. In fact I will do that on the extensions tonight, though an angle grinder would probably do the job alot better than my drill is going too. Once I started with the sandpaper I figured I would just keep going, but it really did take a lot of steps.

I believe I block sanded with 150 about 6 times, 220 about 5 times, 500 twice and 1000 twice. And used a whole bottle of evapo-rust. Happy to say now though that the top is rust free for all intents and purposes and due to all the finish sanding, smooth as glass:thumbsup: I may actually do some 1000 and 1200 grit again, just because I've never felt cast iron so slick and I want to see how good I can get it.

I'll get the extensions done tonight, they've been soaking in rust remover paper towels for 2 days while I handled the top. I've also noticed my miter slots are like a 32nd or 16th of a inch small. I did some aggressive sanding with 150 and 100 but I think I may go even rougher and work my way back smoother on these, as I want standard miter slot sized jugs and accessories to work.

Got some tri-flo to seal her up with today too! Hopefully I can get the pulley and belts changed, insert and splittters in, then put it all back together so I can play with it this weekend!


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

And realistically, I bet I've only spent 3 or 4 hours on this max, I've just done it over several nights. More pics!


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

any reason the blade is on the saw while it's being worked on?


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

Nice work, it looks good. Keep the action shots coming.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

> any reason the blade is on the saw while it's being worked on?


Not really. It is so dull that if I threw it at your as hard as I could I doubt it would even scratch the skin. It is either the original blade or it once was used to cut concrete beams. Came off this weekend though!

I taped and rust converter primered the non sliding parts of the extension tables, cleaned everything as best I could and put the fence back together, in the process checking the heeling of the blade and making sure it was parallel to the miter slots. Surprisingly, even after readjusting the table, everything was almost spot on, though I did spend some time adjusting for 90 degrees to the table. 

I did not go through with putting on the new pulleys...once I realized what I would have to disassemble to get to the pulley on the arbor I balked. Not only was it a little intimidating, but after I got the extensions back on the last thing I wanted to do was scratch the tabletop back up and take everything back off to get to it. So for now a link belt will do. 

I also chose not to move the fence rails out to 36" to the right. The factory configuration is going to provide all I need for the moment and it was much easier to get it square with the factory tape. 

What I'd like to do with this thing is convert it to a cabinet saw with a router table...down the road. Now it's square and has a new blade, I'll get the inserts and splitter running and start cutting. There are a lot of projects around my house to get done. 

More pics!

Blade insert not in because the factory one has frozen leveling allen screws and it is not even close to level. New one is a zero clearance and I wanted to square the blade before I cut into it.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

For the love of God ... get a new camera !!!

:tt2:


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

JimHTP said:


> ......... So for now a link belt will do.......


the 2424 originally had a ribbed bet with complementing pulleys that normally would not work with a link belt. were the pulleys on your saw changed from the OEM units so they would work with a link belt?


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> For the love of God ... get a new camera !!!
> 
> :tt2:


Surely you wouldn't want me to replace the tools on my christmas list with a camera would you? 



> the 2424 originally had a ribbed bet with complementing pulleys that normally would not work with a link belt. were the pulleys on your saw changed from the OEM units so they would work with a link belt?


Glad you told me that. I'd have just tried it and made a hell of a mess. In that case all I have left to do is cut and level the zero clearance insert and install the splitters. I think I'll keep the pulleys and belt instead of returning them, what I have been able to read about the pulleys suggests they make a pretty nice upgrade. 

Now I need to build a shed to move all the lawncare junk outside. Really trying to think of a way to incorporate some wood storage and get that out of my garage too, I'm just not sure I want to build a shed big enough to do that.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

Does anyone know how to find one of the router table inserts like in this craiglist ads? I know that will fit my table, but I have spent hours on craftsman's website and google trying to find out how to order one and I can't. I have a feeling they'll be drastically cheaper than the aftermarket ones which all seem to cost 250+

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4172039661.html

another style

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4125602826.html

Seems like they shouldn't be that difficult to find and I am just having a two week brain fart.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

eBay...sometimes has them.


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

JimHTP said:


> Does anyone know how to find one of the router table inserts like in this craiglist ads?


It would appear for the 2nd one they just took the table top off of one of the small router tables and then made it fit as an extension wing. I would imagine you could handle that easily.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

rbk123 said:


> It would appear for the 2nd one they just took the table top off of one of the small router tables and then made it fit as an extension wing. I would imagine you could handle that easily.



It does look that way but I have seen several so i don't think this is the case. However if it is aluminum I probably wouldn't want it anyway. I guess if I build this out into a cabinet and put a longer/better fence on it I would probably want my own custom fitted table anyway, it seems like most people toss one or both extensions when they do that.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Does your belt look like this? 
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/rip-craftsman-flex-drive-113-241691-a-44342/index2/#post398093
If so, that is what I upgraded mine to from the standard v-belt that was originally on my related Craftsman saw. 

As for the router table, you can probably build one for about the price of a used extension. This could be a little more time consuming, but I sometimes enjoy a good shop project. You can see the router extension that I built in the same thread linked above.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

I have the ribbed belt with grooved pulleys like it looks as if you may have in the first pic. 

How difficult was it to change the pulleys? It looked like I would have to take off the extensions and fence I had just spent hours putting back on and aligning, as well as removing the main table top. For the pulley to slide off the hub on the arbor it looks like my saw's base would be in the way and I'd have to remove the bolts that hold the motor and saw internals to the top to be able to tilt it, and to have the access to loosen/remove it.


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

> As for the router table, you can probably build one for about the price of a used extension. This could be a little more time consuming, but I sometimes enjoy a good shop project. You can see the router extension that I built in the same thread linked above.



I think I am going to build one, when I upgrade the fence and build a larger cabinet for this saw to roll around on. I'd like to get most of my dust producing tools into one movable rolling center of doom.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

the first one looks legit, and expensive. the second one looks to be a c-man bench top router table that someone modified by adding material to the router table top so it would fit snuggly between the front and rear rails of the TS.


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## mobilepaul (Nov 8, 2012)

JimHTP said:


> Does anyone know how to find one of the router table inserts like in this craiglist ads? I know that will fit my table, but I have spent hours on craftsman's website and google trying to find out how to order one and I can't. I have a feeling they'll be drastically cheaper than the aftermarket ones which all seem to cost 250+
> 
> http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4172039661.html
> 
> ...


here's some

your distance, between rails, should be 27", all of these fit that!

http://www.tools-plus.com/excalibur...rm=EXC40-070&gclid=COvUz7PF0boCFSEV7AodYR8AzQ

INCRA RT2743OS 27-Inch by 43-Inch Offset Router Table Top - Amazon.com


http://www.tools-plus.com/excalibur...rm=EXC40-047&gclid=CJX8rLTG0boCFUdk7Aod7zgAUQ

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_table4.html

just to name a few


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

Thanks Mobilepaul, I saw all those, I just didn't want to pay more than I paid for the saw for a cast iron one! And if I was going to get melamine I'll just build it myself. Thanks for the link though, That first one is actually the cheapest I've seen so far. if I do decide to do it that was I may go with that one.


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## solo1001 (Nov 23, 2013)

Sorry to drag up an old thread but I'm removing rust from a TS2424 that I picked up earlier this week. This might sound like a naive question, but can you damage the cast iron by sanding the rust too much? Like can you go too crazy and if so, what are the signs to look for? I used 180 and 220 grit on an ROS like someone in another thread used and then some higher grit wet/dry like the uni-saw restoration video. I feel like I can get it nicer though but don't want to oversand. Thanks for any input.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

solo1001 said:


> Sorry to drag up an old thread but I'm removing rust from a TS2424 that I picked up earlier this week. This might sound like a naive question, but can you damage the cast iron by sanding the rust too much? Like can you go too crazy and if so, what are the signs to look for? I used 180 and 220 grit on an ROS like someone in another thread used and then some higher grit wet/dry like the uni-saw restoration video. I feel like I can get it nicer though but don't want to oversand. Thanks for any input.


It's theoretically possible to sand too much, and create some divots and unlevel spots, but you'd really need to work hard to get there. I've gone as aggressive as 100 grit without issue....it just creates bigger scratches for the most part, and takes longer to get to the finer grits. Be smooth, be patient, let the sander do the work (don't push much), and work your way through the grits progressively....it should be fine.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

I had a spell when I was not using my saw and it rusted the top. I sanded it with 220 and found it was very hard to change the flatness. I also found it would rust quite quickly after sanding it clean again and so I highly recommend conditioning the cast ASAP.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## solo1001 (Nov 23, 2013)

Thank you. I might make another run through the grits after work this evening and then rub it down with paste wax. This is my first table saw and one thing about buying used and restoring, you definitely learn a lot about the ins and outs of it. Exciting stuff.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

solo1001 said:


> Thank you. I might make another run through the grits after work this evening and then rub it down with paste wax. This is my first table saw and one thing about buying used and restoring, you definitely learn a lot about the ins and outs of it. Exciting stuff.


did you check out the unisaw restoration video link earlier in this thread? the techniques covered in the video are applicable to any CI surface. i employed them on this unisaw top. before and after pics:


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## JimHTP (Oct 15, 2013)

just to back up what everyone said, yes the table is still flat as a board and very smooth. As mentioned in the thread my camera really sucks, or you'd be able to tell.

I used from 100 grit on up too and even 60 grit in the miter channels to try and expand them slightly(they appear to be like 1/2 a mm off standard size) and all aftermarket accessories like miter gauges still fit in and everything slides smoothly. 

And for what it's worth evapo-rust worked even better than mineral spirits for rust removal, for the same price. 

Also, use a sanding block for peace of mind, it would be really hard to incorrectly sand a table using one.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

solo1001 said:


> Thank you. I might make another run through the grits after work this evening and then rub it down with paste wax. This is my first table saw and one thing about buying used and restoring, you definitely learn a lot about the ins and outs of it. Exciting stuff.


I was surprised to read in a product test that in fact WD40 was one of the best rust stoppers. That's why I condition mine with it. It does soak in and after some time my saw stopped rusting. I spray it once and if I can leave it for a day or so. Then wipe it off and cut away. After a few applications it really holds up well. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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