# Just built a custom stand for my 125 Gallon Fish Tank - What do you guys think?



## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

Hey guys, I am new here and new to woodworking. I have pretty much become addicted to this hobby over the last few weeks. I have spent tons of money on tools for this build but I also made sure to get tools that we could use on our house we plan to buy in 12 months. We are going to be buying a fixer-upper..

It is 2 x 4 construction wrapped with 3/4" Pine Plywood and 3/4" Pine Finishes. I think it came out good for my first piece of furniture. 

Complete before Doors Hung


















Complete w/ Doors Hung & Fixtures added.









Minwax True Black Stain Added









Wood Grain (Looks awesome!)









I will be adding a canopy over the next few days. It will look something like this but the design will match the stand so it will all flow together.









Two questions I have:

do I need to Poly this and if I do, I do not want it to be shiny. So would that mean I want Clear Poly with a Satin Finish? 

And for the Canopy, I need to Paint the inside of the canopy white and I need it to be a waterproof paint that will seal the wood as mold will form if not done properly. Any advice on the best way to do this? I have large fish that tend to splash and I want to make sure that the wood is protected.. This is all new to me so any help you can give is very much appreciated.

thank you in advance & thanks for looking!
Joshua


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Welcome to the forum, Joshua! When you get a minute add your location to your profile.

That's a nice looking stand for your tank - good job! I would use a good oil base enamel to coat the inside of the canopy. You'll get other opinions, as well. Is there a way to make sure plenty of air hits the inside of the canopy? That will greatly reduce the opportunity for mold spores to grow.

We like photos so keep posting. You can show us your shop, tools, projects, etc. whenever you're ready.

David


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

Hi David,

Thanks for the advice. I have a 2 car garage that has never seen a car because it is packed with tools and other stuff. In about a year we are planning to get out of the city and move to a rural area about 20-30 minutes from where we are now. We want to get at least 5-10 acres and our dream is to get an old farmhouse that we can renovate and turn into our forever home. Me and my wife have 5 children aged 4 months, 3, 13, 16 & 17. I am pretty good with my hands and I can follow instructions. YouTube is an amazing resource. I feel confident enough that with the right instructions and tools, I can accomplish just about anything. You just need patience, the right tool and resources to reference. The only area’s I don’t feel 100% confident in is electrical and plumbing.

I will post some pics of my workshop once I finish this current project and clean up a little bit. i have some from a few months ago but that was mainly when my shop was set up strictly for metalworking. I also taught myself to TIG weld using YouTube. As you can tell I am a big supporter of YouTube! Lol

Thanks again & have a good day!


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Very nice. I have a friend in the Detroit area that goes all out with his aquariums. Carves foam for a "rock" background and puts in all kinds of "scenic" effects. The aquarium reminds me that I haven't been to Captain D's in a while.:laugh2:
Looking forward to the finished project.


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

Here are some pics of the canopy frame. The main things I need to figure out are how to open the front to feed the fish and how to mount the light.


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

if you just went down to the local big box store and bought the dimensional lumber and made the stand, you'll want to allow 6-8 weeks for it to dry/shrink/twist/pretzelize. then lay in the tank and check for flatness/support. glass has very limited bending abilities, and big box lumber has very great shrinking abilities.


125 gal is basically 1000 lbs plus. either it's evenly supported or you'll need a wet/dry vac.


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## gj13us (Apr 19, 2016)

I assume the glass tank will be strong enough to support the canopy. 
It's a great looking stand. In addition to painting the interior of the canopy with enamel or whatever, I would seal the seams with the same silicone caulk that's used to seal aquariums.


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## Kelj358 (Mar 27, 2019)

Fantastic job!


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## sunnybob (Sep 3, 2016)

I have a great deal of experience with large fish tanks, not so much with making the cabinet bases, but I would suggest you cross brace the back of the cabinet to stop the whole thing racking sideways if someone leans on one end.
As a vertical down force i think that base would hold up fine but is it strong diagonally?

From a very quick calculation you have over a ton of water, glass, and rocks, and equipment there. If its going to back onto a wall, make sure its screwed to the wall.
And make sure the tank is NOT seated onto bare wood. That sized tank needs polystyrene strips to absorb and irregularities and or dust fragments.


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

I have never Actually heard of polystyrene. Where do I get it?


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

Great stand!! You do nice work. Been a long time since I had a tank and my largest was only a 25gal I built myself. I was partial to African Cichlids. What kind of aquarium will you set up? Make a great salt water set up with all that room.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

joshualaliberte said:


> ...Two questions I have:
> 
> do I need to Poly this and if I do, I do not want it to be shiny. So would that mean I want Clear Poly with a Satin Finish?
> 
> ...


Hey Joshua,

Welcome to the forum...!!!...:grin:

That looks like a fantastic stand for a "first time" at woodworking...???...I know "pros" in the aquarium and pet industry that make there own stands. Yours is one pare with the best of them!!!

I will validate a little bit, so perhaps my advise will be better understood within that context...

I "was" a life science major about "thousand years ago"...LOL...:vs_laugh:...and ended up reaching my goal of becoming a Zookeeper before even finishing a degree. One of my passions, then (and now) is "enclosure systems" with a focus mainly on sustainable vivaria. My other passions in traditional arts and outdoor adventure activities finally won over, and why I work now professionally in "wood." I still "dabble" in the world of enclosed biome and enjoy it very much...

Now, for your first question...

As to finish...if you ask 10 people (or 100...LOL...:vs_laugh that is how many different answers you will get...

My perspectives on finishes are rooted in two primary foundations...one as a tradtional woodworker...and the other is as a Zookeeper and designer of enclosure systems (wet and dry.)

I don't use...plastic finishes...(aka poly and related urethane)...on wood for any reason...

For some applications, I do (and have to) use certain...very specific!!!...formula of epoxy...(more on that in a bit!)

So for a cabinet like that I would use either a tradtional paint (that I blend myself) and/or a oil-wax-rosin finish...These can then develop a natural patina (like antiques get) that plastic finishes do not allow. 

Because this is an aquarium a finish can get splashed on. As such, I explain to clients that they just have to be more diligent about "mopping up" if they do spill water on the finish. Yet, the other nice part about natural and traditional finishes is they some of the easiest to do well and take care of...I can expand on any of this if you are interested...

If you go with a "poly" or related other members here can help you with that...:smile2:

As to the "white epoxy" that is a great idea and a standard in the industry for not only light reflection but also the reasons you have listed. Please note though, molds can (and will) still grow on these surfaces and epoxy is not 100% water proof without a great deal of effort. That isn't something a hood needs anyway. It just needs a good "splash guard" type of coating that facilitates clean up and light reflection. I have used clear coat epoxies to over a "glued in" Aluminium Mylar layer but that's kind of a "trade-secret" of mine...LOL! You would have promise not to do this kind of work professionally and send me an email if you want more details on how to do that...

I have used Polygem "Zoo Epoxies" for over 3 decades...but recently also started using Ecopoxy because they are such a great little company, are "plant based" and really make a great product line. They will also "spec" my epoxies to what I am needing for a design (i.e. artificial wood, stone, finish load types, etc...) Contact either company (the first is a huge company with lots of history in this work...the second will really works hard to help you directly...) for specifics and feel free to come back here to discuss what you learn and/or with quesitons...

Your frame looks strong enough (for the most part) to me...Its well shy of weight a ton (??) and I have it calculated (total weight) at about 1350 lb give or take 100 lbs. 

I would ask that if you know at this time:

Your point load restrictions in the floor frame under the tank fully set up?

What type of flooring will be under it?

Is it a corner setting?

Will it be wall attached?

Does the back of the stand have a solid attached ply backing or some other diaphragm resistant to racking?

Yours set up looks like it might be for saline, but you wrote its for "a large fish"...What do you plan on putting in the tank? :vs_whistle::vs_OMG::glasses:

What lighting and filtration system are you going with?

I can't wait for my next project in this realm!!! I'm really excited with the break through in LED systems and plan on using one of the Kessil systems!

Again...great job!!!


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

Jay C White,

I will answer all your questions when I am on my computer tomorrow. Tonight my wife is working So I have my hands full with 5 kids and 1 of them is 4 months old. I managed to get some more on the canopy done when he was napping. Here are a few pics. I added some supports and mounted the light. Cut all the 1/4” plywood to wrap it. Now I am done for the night as the baby is up. More to come tomorrow!! Enjoy the weekend!!


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## sunnybob (Sep 3, 2016)

An all glass tank must have the base cushioned. The smallest piece of grit under that base will cause the glass to split under the weight of the water in the tank. even a warped board could crack the glass.
The most common method of protecting the base is to lay strips of white polystyrene across the base layer. This might be called styrofoam where you live, its fairly rigid but can be slightly depressed by your finger.

Use strips about 4" wide x 1/2" thick, front to back on the base, with a gap of about 1/2" between each one. This will even out all the pressures on the glass. Dont use a whole sheet. The foam can only compress at the edges and if an entire sheet is used the edges will sag but the middle will not, causing the glass to bend and most likely break.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

joshualaliberte said:


> Jay C White...I will answer all your questions when I am on my computer tomorrow. Tonight my wife is working So I have my hands full with 5 kids and 1 of them is 4 months old. I managed to get some more on the canopy done when he was napping. Here are a few pics. I added some supports and mounted the light. Cut all the 1/4” plywood to wrap it. Now I am done for the night as the baby is up. More to come tomorrow!! Enjoy the weekend!!


I look forward to it!!!

The photos are great...thanks...

Wow...5 kids and find the time to build "tank stands"...you generation's version of a "Super Dad?"...Bet they'll love the aquarium too...

>>>



sunnybob said:


> An all glass tank must have the base cushioned.....


Hello Sunnybob,

I'm not sure of the language here in context to the OP's Aquarium Stand Project...???

An aquarium-tank, irregardless of size (I've designed, built and set up from 1 gal to 100K L) does require a fully supported base/foundation in most designs (not all.) That is true of "wood tanks"...plastic, masonry or the sundry of glass/slate designs as well...both contemporary and vintage...Like some of the remaining "Victorian" period tanks that pop up ever once in a while for restoration...

The OP's tank appears to be a standard built commercial "rimmed tank" and not a custom "rimless" design...of which I do like for many of the vivarium I design. He only built the stand and hood from what I have gleaned in his posts about the project. As such *there is no "cushioning" required*, nor have I ever heard, read or experienced the term "cushioned" in regards to the frame support for any size aquarium? I would also offer, just as an experienced perspective/observation that any kind of "compressible material" under a fully loaded tank very well could create an uneven load differential within the glass diaphragm of the bottom! 

*Polystyrene (aka bead board) and or any other "foam" is not something personally I would recommend under any tank. *

However, if you have literature, or new research evidence to the contrary, I would very much enjoy reading it...:smile2:

What I do know well, and recommend to clients and DIYers getting in to all this is that a glass "rimmed" tank must have it primary load paths correspond to the design of the tank. The "point loads" typically are at the edges...and...if the designer/manufactures has also place secondary spans within the bottom section of the frame that forms the "rim" then that area should have secondary support within the stand itself...which is often customary. If these aren't present, then the gauge of the glass (aka thickness) is robust enough not to require these secondary spans. The only think I could think of that could be construed as "cushioning" is the bead of silicon that is employed to hold the frame onto the primary diaphragms of glass that forms the sides and bottom...Beyond that, it the geometry and the glass material that transfers the effective loads to the support frame under it...


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## sunnybob (Sep 3, 2016)

The tank in that picture does not have a frame. You are seeing the ends of the other sides of glass which appear to be black.
As such, everything I have stated stands.
I do NOT recommend styrofoam beads unless there is a side lip to stop the edge beads popping out from under the tank.

It's rare to find framed tanks nowadays because the silicone is strong enough to take the weight.
My first aquarium (41 years ago) was 6 ft x 18" x 18". It was home made with 2" angle iron frame and had 1/2" shop front glass and was difficult for two people to move when empty.


If an aquarium does have a steel or heavy duty plastic frame which lifts the glass off of the base support, then of course, that does not require extra support for the bottom.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

sunnybob said:


> ...If an aquarium does have a steel or heavy duty plastic frame which lifts the glass off of the base support, then of course, that does not require extra support for the bottom...


On this point, we can agree...:laugh2:


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

Just so Everyone knows, the tank has a heavy duty plastic trim around the base therefore nothing is needed between the wood and it. If I were using a glass only aquarium I would be using something in between the wood. I still haven’t had a chance to get to my computer but I will soon and I’ll answer any questions I might’ve missed. If I can get this little guy to sleep I could go out in the garage and get some work done!!


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

Some pics of our other tanks


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

The new tank and stand will be going behind the couch. I built it tall enough so that even with the couch in front of it you can see the entire tank.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Simply Awesome...!!!...Thanks for sharing all those photos!!!

And I love that Snapper!!! Folks just don't know what great pets they can actully make. I had several growing up, including and "Alligator Snapper"...all of them became "hand tame" and extremely responsive to those family members they new...

Look forward to following along on this and other projects you share!!!


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## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

Looks good. The doors may become a problem unless a means of allowing movement was built in. I can see cleats on the back. If they are rigidly attached any change in moisture is going to put a lot of stress on the door faces. Construction lumber may also present movement issues. If you use RTV silicone sealant be sure to paint/finish the wood first. Epoxy, polyester or urethane resin coatings are pretty water resistant but when the wood moves small gaps are created. The best way for the RTV silicone to still seal after movement is to have a thick enough gap for the silicone to have enough material to stretch or compress and still not pull loose. Some of the 2 component urethane caulks on the market have more elasticity than the silicones. 
For the exterior finish, if you use synthetic resin based, the full gloss versions will be the most durable. That is how all the formulations start out. Flatting agents are then added to get whatever gloss level they want. I think all the flatting agents result in a less "hard" I. E. durable finish. We keep some flatting agents on hand when we absolutely have to produce a dead flat finish, hate to do that. Not to worry though. You can dull the gloss finishes by abrasively "scratching" the face. Scotch Bright or similar pads can do that. So can some of the buffing compounds sold for automotive finishes. Start with very fine and work up if you need to. If this is something you've never done, do tests. You can get a very even finish with a spray gun and proper viscosity. It takes practice! If you have to brush finish, check to see if flow enhancers are available for your product. You will need to go to a place that sells "to the trade," NOT big box stores!!! We have a commercial account with one of the big finish companies. They sell things through those outlets that are not available in their retail stores. Some of those things require "moon" suites, which is probably why they aren't sold at retail.


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

*joshualaliberte*



Jay C. White Cloud said:


> Your frame looks strong enough (for the most part) to me...Its well shy of weight a ton (??) and I have it calculated (total weight) at about 1350 lb give or take 100 lbs.
> 
> I would ask that if you know at this time:
> 
> ...


Your frame looks strong enough (for the most part) to me...Its well shy of weight a ton (??) and I have it calculated (total weight) at about 1350 lb give or take 100 lbs. I have it calculated that I could handle at least 3,000 lbs with ease. It is wrapped in 3/4" Pine Plywood and I am going to have an X Brace Going across the back of the stand. 

I would ask that if you know at this time:

Your point load restrictions in the floor frame under the tank fully set up?

What type of flooring will be under it? Hard Wood Flooring

Is it a corner setting? It is not set in the corner but it is very well supported in the basement. I have had tanks for 25+ years and the floor joists for this house are more than sufficient. When we move to our forever house in about 12-18 months we are going to build something amazing. The main thing stopping me from going 1000+ Gallons in size here is maintenance and water changes. I just don't have the time and the house is just not setup for it. We are getting married in October 2019 and our lease is up spring of 2020 so we will find a nice place with lots of land and we are going to build some amazing things. Indoor Pond for our turtles and a huge few thousand gallon tank for our fish. THe main thing is setting up the plumbing so that water changes are automated. Carrying 5 gallon buckets through the house is annoying now. Imagine at 25x the current volume, I would go crazy. 

Will it be wall attached? No I never attach tanks to the walls. I always make sure the tank is level and I need to leave room for filtration and whatnot. As long as the stand is level and well built I have never had a problem. 

Does the back of the stand have a solid attached ply backing or some other diaphragm resistant to racking? the back does not. Can you elaborate on this?

Yours set up looks like it might be for saline, but you wrote its for "a large fish"...What do you plan on putting in the tank? :vs_whistle::vs_OMG::glasses:
We have in the last few months purchased a baby Arowana, 2 Baby Oscars, Baby Redtail Catfish & Baby Albino Pacu Piranha. The Arowana will get 3+ feet in the right tank, Oscars 15"+, Redtail Catfish 4+ feet in the right tank and the Pacu will get 36"+ and 40+ lbs. I have always had to rehome fish when they got too large. I am finally in a place financially where I can give them what they need. Once we move, the sky is the limit.

What lighting and filtration system are you going with?
I have a 6ft LED Lighting System & Fluval FX6 Filter & Penn Plax Cascade 1500 Canister Filter. That should be more thsn enough filtration.

I cannot wait to get this new tank setup. The last things to do are to reseal the glass aquarium, rinse the sand and finish the canopy. Currently the Fluval FX6 and Cascade 1500 are hooked up to other aquariums getting cycled so that when I am ready the filters will be full cycled already and I wont have to wait to add fish. 

One question I have for all you guys. What do you think I should do so that the canopy front can be opened or removed? Any Suggestions or Input? I was thinking a Piano Style Hinge on the front of the canopy. I am leaning against a removable piece as it will be at least 6 feet long and over the back of the couch. I am thinking of something that opens and stays open until I pull it closed. Any idea on how to achieve this?

Thank you all!!! I love this forum!


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

joshualaliberte said:


> ...It is wrapped in 3/4" Pine Plywood and I am going to have an X Brace Going across the back of the stand....


Excellent...!!!...:grin:




joshualaliberte said:


> ...Hard Wood Flooring...


Excellent...again...:laugh2:



joshualaliberte said:


> ...It is not set in the corner but it is very well supported in the basement. I have had tanks for 25+ years and the floor joists for this house are more than sufficient. When we move to our forever house in about 12-18 months we are going to build something amazing. The main thing stopping me from going 1000+ Gallons in size here is maintenance and water changes. I just don't have the time and the house is just not setup for it. We are getting married in October 2019 and our lease is up spring of 2020 so we will find a nice place with lots of land and we are going to build some amazing things. Indoor Pond for our turtles and a huge few thousand gallon tank for our fish. THe main thing is setting up the plumbing so that water changes are automated. Carrying 5 gallon buckets through the house is annoying now. Imagine at 25x the current volume, I would go crazy. ...


My Mother (and latter room mates) would scream at me for all the "hoses" running all over the house...LOL...:vs_laugh:...Buckets don't get the job done do they...

Congratulations on the marriage and finding a new home too!!!



joshualaliberte said:


> ...No I never attach tanks to the walls. I always make sure the tank is level and I need to leave room for filtration and whatnot. As long as the stand is level and well built I have never had a problem. ...


Me neither...tying to walls, shimming with pads under tanks and all those kinds of "fixes" and "jury rigging" speaks to me as bad design and/or set up...It's not that I haven't applied them, but they are always a "temporary fix" and/or me saving a bad situation from getting worse...usually in someone else's folly...

Your system approach thus far seems excellent to me...:nerd2:



joshualaliberte said:


> ...Does the back of the stand have a solid attached ply backing or some other diaphragm resistant to racking? the back does not. Can you elaborate on this? ...


No need Joshua...

Your placing "X-Bracing" in the back is a perfect solution...

If it can't be seen(?), I will often employ Simpson Tie Strapping (down and dirty easy to get) in an "X" pattern or a Dyneema webbing (my first choice.) This soft webbing is an excellent way to add a "tension brace system," vs a "compression brace system" which is less efficient and strong typically than a tension system...When on a budget (almost always...LOL!!!) this is a great system to add stiffening to a design, and its profile is actually slim enough to be hidden inside woodworking...Another big plus for sure!!!



joshualaliberte said:


> ...We have in the last few months purchased a baby Arowana, 2 Baby Oscars, Baby Redtail Catfish & Baby Albino Pacu Piranha. The Arowana will get 3+ feet in the right tank, Oscars 15"+, Redtail Catfish 4+ feet in the right tank and the Pacu will get 36"+ and 40+ lbs. I have always had to rehome fish when they got too large. I am finally in a place financially where I can give them what they need. Once we move, the sky is the limit. ...


Joshua...!!!...You have to stay in touch man...:grin:

Those are all great fish for a young family to grow up around...I am especially fond of the Red Tails. They can develope such personalities...but then again (?)...so do the Pacu and Oscars...:vs_laugh:

Sounds like you need a "swim tank" for you and the family pets...I have designed and built a few of those over the years. If you do the work yourself, they aren't as $$$$ if having the work done...Of course the least expensive ones are "out side" natural systems. Those are becoming more and more popular with folks even up North, as then just a "winter housing tank" is required for colder months for some species...

I've also noted that "domestic exotics" are being kept by many also, though the practice is controversial because folks worry about escapes of none state native species. Hasn't stopped a few from keeping Flat Heads, Wels, Alligator Gar, etc. I vacillate on this myself between environmental concerns and "freedom" within the pet trade for those that are responsible owners being punished for the practices of "idiots!!!" Then again (LOL...:vs_laugh The biggest Pacu, and Oscar (among a few others!) I have seen were in canals in Miami County Florida...




joshualaliberte said:


> ...I have a 6ft LED Lighting System & Fluval FX6 Filter & Penn Plax Cascade 1500 Canister Filter. That should be more thsn enough filtration. ...


Great system and I agree, no worries there from my perspective on keeping the water crisp!



joshualaliberte said:


> ...I cannot wait to get this new tank setup. The last things to do are to reseal the glass aquarium, rinse the sand and finish the canopy. Currently the Fluval FX6 and Cascade 1500 are hooked up to other aquariums getting cycled so that when I am ready the filters will be full cycled already and I wont have to wait to add fish...


Brilliant...Your front loading the system biologically...Obviously not your "First Rodeo"...LOL...:vs_laugh:



joshualaliberte said:


> ...
> One question I have for all you guys. What do you think I should do so that the canopy front can be opened or removed? Any Suggestions or Input? I was thinking a Piano Style Hinge on the front of the canopy. I am leaning against a removable piece as it will be at least 6 feet long and over the back of the couch. I am thinking of something that opens and stays open until I pull it closed. Any idea on how to achieve this? ...


I'm not fond of offering "design spec's" without seeing the system in person or at least a CAD of the design...

I will offer a few "stabs in the dark" from past examples I have used and like...in order of favorites...

1. Just make a large door area, and instead of using a hing at all, just use a really small nib magnet on the top corners and maybe on in the center bottom. You will have to experiment just a bit with these if you haven't designed with them before, but they are a great fix for all types of challenges in design...They are kind of a "trade secret" with many and how to use them well...

2. Nice sliding panels that I make myself usually in one of the many 網代 Ajiro Styles is a very close to first but goes second. The door-panel I have in mind for all of these is usually in the Ajiro Styles in my designs or a textile often. They slide nicely and/or can just be "popped" up and out if one wishes. They are an excellent (and tradtional) analogy solution to this challenge...

3. I'm not a fan of "piano hinges" in general as the rust and the stainless steel versions (if you can find them?) are expensive. However, I love the concept of them and make my own out of Dyneema webbing that last forever, are water/oxidation proof and again, make a nice long support hinge...

Those are my "top picks" for you query...Let me know if I can expand on any of them...

Thanks again for sharing your project with all of us!!!:grin:


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

So I take it you like fish just a little bit eh. Beautiful tanks you have there.
As far as the cabinet door you could use regular hinges with gas struts in the corners. Something like whats on this page here https://www.amazon.com/Cabinet-Strut-Support-Pneumatic-Struts/dp/B0799FRWBX/ref=asc_df_B0799FRWBX/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207577014493&psc=1

Good luck!!!


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

Thank you for the information on the gas struts. That is actually one of the possibilities I have been thinking about me. I’m contemplating putting a door in the front or having one of the sides be completely removable and held on with magnetic connections. It’s also going to be extremely lightweight so if I ever have anything to do inside the tank I can always remove it. I do Use a gravel vacuum on my tank at least once a week so that needs to be easily achieved. Also the light that I have is 6 feet long so I need to be able to take that out and replace it if ever needed. I should have this whole tank completely set up in about 7-10 days at the most. I will post pictures of my progress The next time I work on it. Hopefully I will get a chance this evening. Have a good day Everyone!


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## HarryC (Mar 29, 2019)

Looks great!


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## joshualaliberte (Mar 27, 2019)

Havent had much time at all. Started on the canopy but nowhere near done yet.. Here are some updates for now.










more to come soon!


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