# Issues with glue joints on cutting board



## NOLAwoodwork (Feb 21, 2012)

I had a recent request to make some end grain cutting boards. This is my first time doing one, and it seemed simple enough. I have been having some issues with the glue joints. In the attached pictures, you can see the small cracks in the board that I am getting. Is this from not using enough glue?

I have concern that these cracks with enlarge over time with water coming in contact with the board. Also, I worry about sanitary issues with bacteria getting in them. I will not accept selling an inferior product. Can this simply be remedied by applying more glue before I clamp the boards? Also, can something be done to fix these boards that have already been glued up? These particular boards are made of bloodwood so I have a decent amount of money in them currently.


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## bandman (Jan 15, 2009)

*Cutting Board Glue-up*

Gluing up a cutting board is no different than gluing up any other woods, they need to fit perfectly before you glue up. As far as repairing these, you can take some yellow glue and rub it into the cracks and then sand around it. The sanding dust will mix with the glue and it will give you a good fill; I do not know if it will work good enough for a cutting board or not, but it is worth a try. You are correct about not using it as it is. (fill only one crack at a time)

Bandman


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## phoenixbound (Nov 24, 2014)

You need perfectly jointed edges, proper clamping technique (tight enough, evenly distributed clamping pressures), you should get some squeeze out all along the edges. Make sure to place a caul along the top to keep the board FLAT during clamping. Leave the clamps on for a couple of hours unless using slow-set glues in which case increase clamping time as recommended by the mfgr. work in sections, if necessary.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

What is the turquoise strip made of? I agree with the others - it needs to fit precisely dry before you glue it and then make sure you use enough glue for some squeeze out. Do you have an overall photo so we can see the full board? Looks pretty...


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## NOLAwoodwork (Feb 21, 2012)

difalkner said:


> What is the turquoise strip made of? I agree with the others - it needs to fit precisely dry before you glue it and then make sure you use enough glue for some squeeze out. Do you have an overall photo so we can see the full board? Looks pretty...


I'm assuming you are talking about the light colored strips. That is hard maple. I did a dry fit and didn't seem to have any issues with gaps. I am thinking I did not use enough glue. I am currently filling the gaps with more glue. I am hoping these boards don't go to waste. I will provide a full size picture of the board when I am done with the gluing.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Those are Maple? They look turquoise in the photo. NOLA - New Orleans?


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## Chamfer (Sep 6, 2014)

Looks to me like the materials werent perfectly edged, not an issue of clamping or glue. Thats based on the surrounding joints.

Using glue or filler would not solve the durability issue in question IMHO. If it was a display sort of piece you could get away with it as those gaps would easily be hidden with filler and a finish. But if this is to be a working chop board than I would have the same worries as you.


As painful as it is to hear, if you truly dont want to give away an inferior piece, and have more material I would try again.


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Agree with other that it looks like the boards were not machined true. Also, the pictures don't look like an end grain board. It looks like a face grain board.
Tom


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## CNYWOODS (Apr 22, 2012)

Almost like it's end to edge grain on the glue up?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The problem isn't the machining or the gluing or anything that was done in assembly. The problem is with the design. You can't have wood running in perpendicular directions with each other. Wood had to expand and contract by width and if you have a board glued lengthwise across the grain something has to give so the joint will fail or the wood will split to re-leave the pressure.


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## phoenixbound (Nov 24, 2014)

What Steve said!


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

blood wood?

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/bloodwood/

Allergies/Toxicity: The wood’s dust has been reported as occasionally causing effects such as thirst and salivation, as well as nausea. Can also cause skin irritation.

Workability: Bloodwood is extremely dense, and has a pronounced blunting effect on cutters. The wood tends to be brittle and can splinter easily while being worked.

Endgrain: Diffuse-porous;

This sounds like a risky proposition...

Steve might be right, but if you just made the thing... I wonder if such issues have even had a chance to come to light. Im guessing these gaps were there immedietly. More glue wouldnt change the fit, maybe just filled the cavity more.


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## BaldEagle2012 (Jan 25, 2012)

I have made over 50 cutting boards. It looks like to me that the pieces you have glued, are not square. Also you have cross grained wood, as said before, this is not acceptable because of the reactions of wood with moisture, heat and cooling 
I would check the alignment of the tools you are using and correct if necessary.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

As Steve and others pointed out, the long grain to cross grain wood is generally considered problematic, due to wood movement in opposing directions. With a cutting board, you increase the problem because it is going to be subjected to moisture, repeatedly, and likely on one side more than the other. While it may be a pretty design, if you are truly concerned with selling a quality product, you need to consider its ability to remain intact with time and its intended use.

Oh yeah, and these do not appear to be end-grain cutting boards. At least, there doesn't seem to be any end grain in the photos.


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