# Bottle stopper chuck



## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

I posted some pics of the winestoppers I made but didn't share the struggle of chucking them up.

I found this setup at PennState
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/BS1-SS2.html

I already have the tap and drill.
Good idea or not?

I like the idea of drilling and tapping my blank, threading it on and being able to turn and finish it all in one process.

Do you guys have better methods?


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

I seldom turn stoppers and I do not know the value of the wood and stoppers but why would this not work just as well?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CF3SC.html
Yes, you would have to finish off the bottom edge prior to screwing it on but it seem you would have to do almost the same with the other. According to the spec the screw is replacable.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

NCPaladin said:


> I seldom turn stoppers and I do not know the value of the wood and stoppers but why would this not work just as well?
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CF3SC.html
> Yes, you would have to finish off the bottom edge prior to screwing it on but it seem you would have to do almost the same with the other. According to the spec the screw is replacable.


Hi NC
The stoppers have a threaded rod in the top to screw into the wood.
The setup you pictured is not the same thread as the one that's on the bottle stopper ( 3/8 x 16 ) 

It requires you to drill a hole, screw it on, turn your blank, then unscrew and then redrill and tap.
My setup requires a drill and tap at 3/8 x 16 and just screw it onto the lathe bolt that is the same size as the bottle stopper thread.

Thanks for the response though....


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

Is there a reason not to use a stopper gripped in a small 4-jaw chuck?

I know it would mar the surface, but you could keep a "sacrificial stopper" to use as a chuck over and over, it would be cheaper (but only by a few dollars) than buying the special-purpose chuck.

Maybe it would be too hard to get things aligned square. What the heck, buy the chuck ... it's only $9.95, but note that several reviewers say the drill bit they supply is oversized.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

tc, I have used that Penn State stopper chuck for 4+ years now. It's the way to go. No need to tap the blank before chucking it, this will allow it to hold better (punky woods will strip out if tapped first). I tap them before installing the stopper.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

duncsuss said:


> but note that several reviewers say the drill bit they supply is oversized.
> 
> http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html


I saw that in the reviews.
I already have the correct drill bit so that won't be an issue...thanks Dunc.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

sawdustfactory said:


> tc, I have used that Penn State stopper chuck for 4+ years now. It's the way to go. No need to tap the blank before chucking it, this will allow it to hold better (punky woods will strip out if tapped first). I tap them before installing the stopper.


Hi Dusty
I'm confused...but that's not new......

"no need to tap the blank."
So do you just drill it and force it onto the bolt?...sorry if I don't understand.

Thanks for the reply............


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## Bonanza35 (Jan 20, 2011)

I use the woodcraft chuck but its the same principle. I've never had to use a tap, I just drill the hole in the blank and screw it on the chuck. The chuck bolt basically acts as a tap though it doesn't technically "cut" threads. Really hard woods might need a tap but I haven't run into that in the few I've done.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

What Bonanza said. Just drill and screw it onto the chuck, no pre-threading needed, the chuck will do that. If you want to be quick/brave/stupid/get a little adrenaline going; just turn it by hand to get started and then hold on while turning on the lathe, just make sure the speed is at lowest setting. DAMHIK :blink:


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## Whaler (Mar 9, 2011)

I have been using the PSI chuck for years and it works great. I have run into very few woods that required tapping but all acrylics need tapped.
A word of caution put a little paste wax on the mandrel threads before screwing it into the blank it makes it much easier to get it off after turning. I just picked up a couple of the Woodriver mandrels from Woodcraft to use in my collet chuck as the PSI chuck won't work on my new lathe with a 1 1/4" spindle. The quality of these looks real good, PSI mandrel on the right.


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## Glidden (Dec 2, 2010)

I will second Sawdust in his endorcement of the PSI mandrel. I've also used the mandrel from craft supply, but would have to probably get a better jacobs chuck, the one I got from harbor freight likes to come loose on me. 

I drill and tap the hole before mounting but most of the wood I'm working with for bottle stoppers is usually dry and solid. For some soft or wet woods I will mount directly onto the mandrel which provides a much tighter hold.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Thank you all for your replies...

They helped a lot........


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## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

My thought with the screw chuck was (because it stated the screw was replaceable) the threads in the chuck are probably not wood threads as in the “pin” part. Maybe someone can tell you. If so you can remove that screw and insert a bolt threaded as you need.
Or, since you have the tap and bit already, remove it and re-tap? 

Being frugal I would just buy a good quality bolt, cut the head off, and hold it in a pin chuck.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

I use a home built pin chuck. No threads, just a 3/8" hole. Very fast.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Heres a bottle stopper mandrel that taps the threads as you screw the blank on. I have no experience with it but Ive been debating with myself over this one and the one from psi.

Whaler, what size collet are you putting those chucks into? I was going to get that kind but didnt think it would fit into my pen madrel collet so I passed on it.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

I bought one from Woodcraft that was stainless steel with 3/8 x 16 threads & fits a morse taper #2 - #846953. SS Niles also has one that will also cut threads like a tap when mounting.

http://www.torne-lignum.com/stoppers.html


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

jlord, thats the one I was talking about in my reply but I completely forgot to post the link. Thanks!


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Whaler said:


> I have been using the PSI chuck for years and it works great. I have run into very few woods that required tapping but all acrylics need tapped.
> A word of caution put a little paste wax on the mandrel threads before screwing it into the blank it makes it much easier to get it off after turning. I just picked up a couple of the Woodriver mandrels from Woodcraft to use in my collet chuck as the PSI chuck won't work on my new lathe with a 1 1/4" spindle. The quality of these looks real good, PSI mandrel on the right.


 
+1 for all of what you use, but I always tap the wood because I had a bad experience awhile back with the threads crumbling. One other point tapping makes for a straighter thread and the stopper blank fits the stopper much straighter. I use a jacobs chuck and a cullet chuck to hold the non PSI versions. I actually made my own for the 1/4 " style with two jam nuts and a washer to seat the stopper blank.


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## Whaler (Mar 9, 2011)

BassBlaster said:


> Heres a bottle stopper mandrel that taps the threads as you screw the blank on. I have no experience with it but Ive been debating with myself over this one and the one from psi.
> 
> Whaler, what size collet are you putting those chucks into? I was going to get that kind but didnt think it would fit into my pen madrel collet so I passed on it.


The Woodriver mandrels from Woodcraft fit a 3/8" collet.


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