# First Project - Sears Craftsman mdl 113.226680 10" Direct Drive Table Saw



## rhilton284 (Jan 2, 2020)

I have Just started refurbishing a Sears Craftsman mdl 113.226680 10" Direct Table Saw. It may not be the most sought-after table saw but it was left to me by my Father In-law and means a lot to me.

I have gone thru it and cleaned up all of the old grud and saw dust, derusted the cast iron top and wings and painted the insets and bottom of wings and table, and waxed the top and wings, painted the case, and spiffed up the face plate. Next thing on the list is replacing the old on/off switch with a new Protec model 71007 paddle switch.
I am assuming the wiring is going to be modified from original as depicted in my new wiring diagram. If anyone sees a problem with my modified wiring pleas feel free to let me know. If I have it correct please feel free to let me know that as well. I am not an expert on wiring table saws and this Craftsman table saw seems to be wired different from other Craftsman saws I have seen on the interweb….

Comments, suggestions, and input will be appreciated.

Best Regards to All,

Bob


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

rhilton284 said:


> I have Just started refurbishing a Sears Craftsman mdl 113.226680 10" Direct Table Saw. It may not be the most sought-after table saw but it was left to me by my Father In-law and means a lot to me.
> 
> I have gone thru it and cleaned up all of the old grud and saw dust, derusted the cast iron top and wings and painted the insets and bottom of wings and table, and waxed the top and wings, painted the case, and spiffed up the face plate. Next thing on the list is replacing the old on/off switch with a new Protec model 71007 paddle switch.
> I am assuming the wiring is going to be modified from original as depicted in my new wiring diagram. If anyone sees a problem with my modified wiring pleas feel free to let me know. If I have it correct please feel free to let me know that as well. I am not an expert on wiring table saws and this Craftsman table saw seems to be wired different from other Craftsman saws I have seen on the interweb….
> ...





Should work fine, Bob


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I own three 12" direct drive Craftsman saws .....*

Unfortunately they stopped making them in the 1980's. They were the hybrid of table saws back then, no motor hanging out the back end. The main difference is that the motor's armature shaft is the saw's arbor unlike the hybrids of today where the arbor is belt driven by a separate motor. I love mine, even have a 4th one for parts or motor if needed. I bolted them all together to form a super wide unit, Sawzilla as it's known here. 



How about a photo of the motor in your saw? :vs_cool:


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## Tyson S. Carroll (Feb 5, 2020)

I have the same saw and switch. Did your wiring work as you expected? If it did, how did you put it all together?


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## rhilton284 (Jan 2, 2020)

Tyson S. Carroll said:


> I have the same saw and switch. Did your wiring work as you expected? If it did, how did you put it all together?


I have not installed the switch yet. I don't expect to have any problems though. As always what I expect and what I get maybe two entirely different things.....:grin:


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## kklowell (Apr 4, 2016)

You did a great job bringing that saw to being a beautiful tool!


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## homestd (Aug 24, 2018)

I've got the same saw...It's been working since 1995. The fence leaves a lot to be desired but, over the years, I've adjusted to it. You can't just slide it over and go. lol


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## rhilton284 (Jan 2, 2020)

homestd said:


> I've got the same saw...It's been working since 1995. The fence leaves a lot to be desired but, over the years, I've adjusted to it. You can't just slide it over and go. lol


I still have a switch to wire up. The fence on mine is not great but I knew a few tricks on getting it to set in parallel to the blade. It seems to work pretty good for what it is.


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## Mr.Bill (Jan 28, 2021)

rhilton284 said:


> I am assuming the wiring is going to be modified from original as depicted in my new wiring diagram. If anyone sees a problem with my modified wiring pleas feel free to let me know. If I have it correct please feel free to let me know that as well. I am not an expert on wiring table saws and this Craftsman table saw seems to be wired different from other Craftsman saws I have seen on the interweb….


Saw looks good! If the blade it a right angle to the feed, your good. If you want precise cuts, maybe a new fence. I'm looking at a new fence for mine soon as the old fence doe snto always lock down square. 

Home wiring is Alternating Current (AC), not direct as in your car. So the hot and command switch back and forth, but that really not important as far as replacing your saw switch goes.
Conceptually, think of the wiring this way: 
- The white wire is the Neutral; think of it as ground as it wires to the bus bar in the breaker panel as do the bare/green ground wires. 
- The black wire is Hot/Power. Black connects to your breaker in the breaker box. 
You don't ever want to touch both wires at the same time or have them come into contact with each other when the power is on and they are live. 

The switch is like a splice in the line, Click the switch on and a piece of metal inside moves to bridge the gap between the wire at each end to complete your circuit. Move it off and the metal moves away to breaks the circuit so there is no path for power to flow across it. 

Looks like the old original switch has just the one black wire going through it, but the new switch also has the white wire going through it. 

Does the switch have some electronic component to it that needs power? I'm curious why they have the white wire being added. There must be some reason for this change.A simple mechanical switch, like the old switch or a light switch in a home just uses the one black wire on a switch. 

By their directions, basically you need to cut the white wire going to the motor and run it to switch as the wire as the diagram shows. Black on one side, white on the other (left and right side of the switch as the diagram shows, not top and bottom). 
Hopefully the white wire is long enough. If not, you'll need to splice in or replace a section of wiring. Making a reliable and safe splice of 115 volts in such a dusty environment has challenges, it should be in an electrical box. I would run the white wire to the switch, then replace the leg of white wire to the motor if the old white wire is not long enough.


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## pjchef2000 (11 mo ago)

rhilton284 said:


> I have Just started refurbishing a Sears Craftsman mdl 113.226680 10" Direct Table Saw. It may not be the most sought-after table saw but it was left to me by my Father In-law and means a lot to me.
> 
> I have gone thru it and cleaned up all of the old grud and saw dust, derusted the cast iron top and wings and painted the insets and bottom of wings and table, and waxed the top and wings, painted the case, and spiffed up the face plate. Next thing on the list is replacing the old on/off switch with a new Protec model 71007 paddle switch.
> I am assuming the wiring is going to be modified from original as depicted in my new wiring diagram. If anyone sees a problem with my modified wiring pleas feel free to let me know. If I have it correct please feel free to let me know that as well. I am not an expert on wiring table saws and this Craftsman table saw seems to be wired different from other Craftsman saws I have seen on the interweb….
> ...


Just purchased one for 50.00 Goodwill...in pretty good shape but missing the rip fence and miter guide...any suggestions...cannot seem to find on ebay or other sources to include sears parts. what year did they make this model, do you know? mine is a 113.226680 model as well. thanks, regards Paul J.


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## rogerh (Sep 13, 2020)

pjchef2000 said:


> Just purchased one for 50.00 Goodwill...in pretty good shape but missing the rip fence and miter guide...any suggestions...cannot seem to find on ebay or other sources to include sears parts. what year did they make this model, do you know? mine is a 113.226680 model as well. thanks, regards Paul J.


The ripe fence and miter gauge, should work on that saw.








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## Ray Jr 62 (3 mo ago)

rhilton284 said:


> I have Just started refurbishing a Sears Craftsman mdl 113.226680 10" Direct Table Saw. It may not be the most sought-after table saw but it was left to me by my Father In-law and means a lot to me.
> 
> I have gone thru it and cleaned up all of the old grud and saw dust, derusted the cast iron top and wings and painted the insets and bottom of wings and table, and waxed the top and wings, painted the case, and spiffed up the face plate. Next thing on the list is replacing the old on/off switch with a new Protec model 71007 paddle switch.
> I am assuming the wiring is going to be modified from original as depicted in my new wiring diagram. If anyone sees a problem with my modified wiring pleas feel free to let me know. If I have it correct please feel free to let me know that as well. I am not an expert on wiring table saws and this Craftsman table saw seems to be wired different from other Craftsman saws I have seen on the interweb….
> ...


If you do not mind me asking you, but by any chance do you happen to know where I can locate (to buy) the two bearings that go on the motor (Part # STD 315238). I, too, have a Sears Craftsman 113.226680 table saw that was given to me by a neighborhood friend who was looking to clear out his garage. I am in the midst of restoring it and have taken apart the motor but I am having one heck of a time locating those specific bearings. If you could get back to me on this I would greatly appreciate it.


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