# Freud blade stuck on table saw - help!



## Nikko (Dec 9, 2015)

Hello, everyone.

I hope someone has some good advice.

I recently acquired second-hand 10" table saw in good condition...except for the blade. I purchased a good Freud blade of the same size. I placed it on the arbor and began tightening the nut. It was rough going, so I figured that I might need to sand the hole a little...but now the damned blade won't come off! It will wiggle and waggle, but won't go past a certain point. I have tried brute force, lubricant (WD40) and tried heating it. The latter attempt allowed it to spin freely and perhaps waggle a bit more, but it won't come along any further. I might even now detect a slight groove where it is spinning.

Any clever ideas for getting this stupid thing off?

Thanks in advance.

Nikko


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*here's what I would do ...*

After unplugging the saw, remove the nut. Examine the threads for burrs. Extend the blade away from the arbor flange to create a gap. Put a screwdriver between the flange and the blade on either side of the arbor shaft to pry the blade off evenly. It "should" come off.

Once the blade is off, use a piece of emory paper like a strap, smooth out the arbor threads. There may be a portion of the arbor where the threads stop just before the flange creating a "groove"....? If so, this is your problem. I would add a 1/16" or 1/8" blade washer to prevent this from happening again. Blade washers are machined flat to prevent blade runout. They are available on ebay sometimes sold with a arbor nut.

I'm gonna bet you bought a thin kerf blade and it's falling into the groove. If you can find the place where it will remove by lifting it at the same time as pulling it off that may also work.....:blink:


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It wouldn't be a Delta saw would it? I have a unisaw and I have to take a dremel tool with a grinding wheel and enlarge the arbor hole on any new blade I put on it. I've never had a blade completely stick on saw before though. I think about the only thing you can do to get the blade off is drive a heavy putty knife between the blade and washer and as gently as possible pry it off. Eventually when you get it far enough off you might try a flat bar and pieces of wood.


----------



## Nikko (Dec 9, 2015)

Thank you both.

The thin kerf blade is stuck on the arbor shaft about 1/8" past the threads. There is about 1/4" on the other side between the blade and the flange next to the motor.

[motor]-[flange]-[1/4"_shaft]-[blade]-[1/8"_shaft]-[shaft_screw_threads]

(As a note of probably little significance: the shaft is circular but with part of two sides trimmed so that it is not fully round (_) <- kinda like that.)

I have tried the two screwdrivers thing, leaning into it pretty well, but it didn't shift. I tried sanding the shaft where it meets the blade. I also tried sanding inside the blade hole where it is accessible via the flat bits on the shaft. Nada.

I also brought out the hammer and had a couple of wacks.  No dice either, but it made a nice ringing sound.

I have a project waiting on this and it is driving me nuts to be so stymied before I even begin! :furious:

Any other suggestions?


----------



## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

Heat the blade to see if it loosens up?


----------



## Sorrowful Jones (Nov 28, 2010)

It sounds like you are getting rather aggressive which may worsen the problem. If the blade went on without forcing it, then most likely it will come off. If the blade has created a groove on the arbor, try finessing, lifting the blade upward, slightly, making sure it is not angled, keeping as perpendicular to the arbor as possible. If the blade wallered on the arbor, then it could have created a burr on the threads.
If you could take a pic or two then someone on here might spot the problem


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I wouldn't heat the blade*

I want to know if it is loose enough to spin on the arbor?
Does it still wobble or is it locked in place? If you work the screw drivers around at 90 degrees intervals, prying out as you go, it should come off....it went on didn't it. The arbor hasn't increased in diameter.
A bit baffling I'd say.


----------



## Big Mike 69 (Oct 20, 2015)

Well you said you got a dremel tool in the flat area of the shaft and blade so you may need to keep incorporating that method and turning the blade till it opens enough to remove. Be patient and careful not to damage the shaft itself.


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

Guys read what he wrote:

I placed it on the arbor and began tightening the nut. It was rough going

He's essentially pressed the blade onto the arbor using the nut.

If it went on rough, it's going to come off even more rough. Screw drivers are not going to do the job, large pry bars are in order, and the blade is likely to suffer in the process.

As others have stated pry one side, roll it 180 degrees and pry that side, work it back and forth, it's going to take awhile.

Lesson learned, "if it don't fit force it" isn't always the best approach.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you have the nut off you might put a clamp on the blade and from a distance briefly turn the saw on. If it spins on the arbor it should loosen it.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> If you have the nut off you might put a clamp on the blade and from a distance briefly turn the saw on. If it spins on the arbor it should loosen it.


 Wouldn't that wear a permanent groove on the arbor?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I asked if the blade would spin*



woodnthings said:


> I want to know if it is loose enough to spin on the arbor?
> Does it still wobble or is it locked in place? If you work the screw drivers around at 90 degrees intervals, prying out as you go, it should come off....it went on didn't it. The arbor hasn't increased in diameter.
> A bit baffling I'd say.


Before I powered it up with the blade clamped, it would be easy to tell if the blade is jammed on the arbor by manually turning it while holding the belt.

I suggested screw drivers first because there may be very little room for a large pry bar. A pickle bar for removing ball joints and tie rod ends would be great, but I doubt there is enough room.

If you crank the blade to full height, you can whack the blade with a dead blow hammer and rotate it as you go. It will come off eventually using this method.


----------



## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

woodnthings said:


> Before I powered it up with the blade clamped, it would be easy to tell if the blade is jammed on the arbor by manually turning it while holding the belt.
> 
> I suggested screw drivers first because there may be very little room for a large pry bar. A pickle bar for removing ball joints and tie rod ends would be great, but I doubt there is enough room.
> 
> If you crank the blade to full height, you can whack the blade with a dead blow hammer and rotate it as you go. It will come off eventually using this method.


BFH is actually a great idea.

I'm not a fan of the clamp it and turn it on method, I see where it would likely break it free, but I also see a LOT of opportunity to damage or injure. I would maybe do it in a pinch, but I wouldn't recommend that someone else do it.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

hwebb99 said:


> Wouldn't that wear a permanent groove on the arbor?


It would be more likely to wear the blade. If done briefly it should only wear enough to get the blade off.


----------



## Nikko (Dec 9, 2015)

The blade does spin freely.

The is the result of a newbie doing what seemed reasonable at the time: I read the manual, read and watched a bunch of "how to guides" on how to change blades (and I do mean a bunch--must have spent over an hour doing so). No mention of having to worry: just put on the blade and tighten. Funnily enough, I didn't start running into sites mentioning Freud blades being a bit close and needing a bit of widening until I started searching for "blade stuck on arbor". Sigh. 

There isn't a lot of space in the flat bit of the arbor, so I can't fit a proper Dremel tool in there to really widen the blade hole. The idea of turning on the saw seems to me to be unsafe. I guess it will have to be the pry bar and/or BFH option. My worry is in damaging the motor/arbor assembly which would end up wrecking the saw (I figure the blade is probably a write-off at this point).


----------



## jdonhowe (Jul 25, 2014)

I'd say try heating the blade again, while keeping the arbor shaft as cool as possible (ice cube?), along with prying. Assuming you eventually get the blade off, you should check the parts diagram for your saw. I used a saw long ago that had spacers on each side of the blade. If I forgot to put in the inner spacer (next to the arbor), the blade would bind on the shaft where the spacer was meant to be.


----------



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I have had the same problem with certain blades on my table saw. The blade spins, but it won't pass the threads. After unplugging the saw, I tilt the blade away from the arbor slightly so it will actually grab the threads and then turn the arbor with the wrench until the blade moves to the end of the arbor (as if the blade was like a nut) and comes off.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I'm trying to picture this ....*



Nikko said:


> *The blade does spin freely. *


If it spins on the unthreaded portion of the shaft then the threaded portion is "buggered up". You could take a mill file and slowly rotate the shaft just enough to clean off any burrs.... have a helper turn the belt while you file?

I suppose it's possible that the blade is the same thickness as the thread and has slipped into one of the grooves ... but then it would sit on an angle the same pitch as the threads, but you didn't mention that. 

You can always hammer the blade hole back down over a steel plate once you get it off. But will you ever trust putting it back on again? I would, but only with a arbor washer as I posted above somewhere. You can tell immediately if it's going on easily or "rough" . I am loathe to toss away anything I think I can bring back to life. Even if the hole becomes elongated by a half thou or so, it will still cut fine, but some of the teeth may not be entirely in play.

If you heat the blade plan on tossing it. :yes:


----------



## Nikko (Dec 9, 2015)

A very big thank you to all! :thumbsup:

In the end, a mill file lightly applied around the circumference of the shaft along with two screwdrivers for leverage popped the thing out. Whew!!!

I'll evaluate the hole in the blade later; I have a replacement for my current purposes.

Woodnthings...what's that about chucking the blade if heated? It is an expensive blade (at least by my standards) and am loath to bin it unless really necessary. What should I look for in evaluating whether or not I can re-use this safely?

Thanks again, everyone.


----------



## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

Nikko said:


> A very big thank you to all! :thumbsup: In the end, a mill file lightly applied around the circumference of the shaft along with two screwdrivers for leverage popped the thing out. Whew!!! I'll evaluate the hole in the blade later; I have a replacement for my current purposes. Woodnthings...what's that about chucking the blade if heated? It is an expensive blade (at least by my standards) and am loath to bin it unless really necessary. What should I look for in evaluating whether or not I can re-use this safely? Thanks again, everyone.


 As long as you didn't bend it it should be fine. You didn't heat it did you? I would be more worried about the table saw especially the bearings if you heated it.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*heating the blade ... nope*



Nikko said:


> A very big thank you to all! :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


In the manufacture of blades, the plate is made to be especially flat by different processes like hammering. If you heat the blade, then pry on it it that will change the structure of the plate and "probably" warp it making it useless.. If you wanted to chance it, you could of course. Glad you got it off without doing that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oNQN0dRD54#t=125

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E09-VSzL4ys


----------



## sancho57 (Oct 23, 2011)

It does sound like a pressed fit . That means it's going to take some force to get it off .


----------



## MattS (Feb 17, 2010)

To add to what woodnthings said about heating up the blade, any amount of banging on it or prying is cause for concern when re-using it. I wouldn't want one of the teeth to pop off while my face is in line with the blade spin and embed itself in my forehead or worse (I often use my saw with safety glasses instead of my full face covered). 

Also consider that with the hole of the blade being bent in/out during this process it may have some wobble to it, which might not be a big deal if you are just dicing up 2x4's and rough plywood, I wouldn't want to cut anything finish grade on it.

Edit: If you haven't gotten it off yet, I'd recommend against hitting it further for the sake of your saw bearings. The damage just isn't worth it, as your saw bearings aren't designed for lateral stress. I'd get a metal c-clamp on it and either plasma or angle grinder cut it off (or a sawzall with a short blade, dremel if none of those are available). Get as close to the shaft as you can on two sides of the blade, then bend it back and forth until it snaps off.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*quoting post no. 19 ...*



Nikko said:


> A very big thank you to all! :thumbsup:
> 
> In the end, a mill file lightly applied around the circumference of the shaft along with *two screwdrivers for* *leverage popped the thing out.*
> 
> Thanks again, everyone.


FYI, It's off the arbor! :yes:


----------



## MattS (Feb 17, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> FYI, It's off the arbor! :yes:


Ah hah, I missed that post somehow. Welp!


----------

