# Ridgid 4512 fence upgrade



## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

I ABSOLUTELY hate the stock fence on this saw!
I can upgrade it around xmas time and was wondering, what the best fence system for this saw would be.

I like the idea of having the Incra system because I have a router on the wing opening to the right of the blade, but I also know that you really cant beat the biesemeyer.

Has anyone here upgraded their fence on this saw? What are the best recommendations/options?


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Why don't you like it? While it may not be a Biesemeyer, I think it's pretty decent. However, this is coming from someone that had an old POS Craftsman that had the mother of all crappy fences. I used a dial indicator to get mine within a few .001 and it seems to be repeatable. I also like the built in t-slots.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

ChiknNutz said:


> Why don't you like it?


It's the two piece rail system! I hate it! It is Junk!!!


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Well I have to agree that the 2-pc rail is a poor design, I find that the overall product overshadows that flaw. Again, my viewpoint is from someone that has never used anything better, but have used something vastly inferior.

In any case, I think you can use most aftermarket fences. I guess it depends on how much you are willing to spend on it.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The Biese is great but can cost 75% of your whole saw. I think the Delta T2 makes a lot of sense for ~ $150 for a saw like yours....it's often called a "Biese Lite".


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

*pics with t-2 setup*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/r4512-fence-wing-upgrades-28490/

this was the thread that has pic's of my delta T-2 setup, LOVE IT.


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## Bill in VaBeach (Apr 15, 2011)

The T-2 would be a dependable and cost appropriate upgrade. Have the biesmeyer on my Unisaw and it's top quality, but expensive and heavy. 

On my Ridgid, I played with that two piece fence for at least a couple hours trying to align it so there would be an absolutely smooth transition between the two sections for the fence to slide on. No go! The two extruded pieces just would not line up. I instead went for the straightest lineup I could achieve over the total length and then used 600 grit then 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to remove the mismatch between the two sections and allow the fence to slide smoothly.

I'm not a big fan at all of this fence, but it is accurate and has met all my requirements, so I'm keeping it for now.


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## snipit73 (Mar 29, 2011)

T2 on a 4511 sweet upgrade:thumbsup:


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## Brunnster (Aug 23, 2011)

I have to agree that this is probably not the best fence setup Ridgid could have done, but like ChiknNutz, I upgraded from an old Craftsman that was junk so this saw is great for me. One of my biggest gripes is the lift. I have taken it off three times now to make sure I put it together just like the insrtuctions show. I still cannot get the lift to pick the saw completely up and stay locked into place. When i do get the saw up on the wheels, the slightest movement causes the lift to drop. Has anyone else with the 4512 had this problem?


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## Porphyre (Jan 5, 2011)

Brunnster said:


> One of my biggest gripes is the lift. I have taken it off three times now to make sure I put it together just like the insrtuctions show. I still cannot get the lift to pick the saw completely up and stay locked into place. When i do get the saw up on the wheels, the slightest movement causes the lift to drop. Has anyone else with the 4512 had this problem?


I have an older generation TS 3650 but assume the lift system is the same or similar to your 4512. Even when assembled correctly, the damn "lift" system only raises the saw about 1/4" to 3/8"! I work in a garage that is a) 30 years old and not 100% flat and b) graded for drainage. In order to make the work surface level in both directions, there's more than 1/4" difference in the height of the feet.

In my experience, the people that like Ridgid's "Herc-U-Lift" system are those who have good flat and level floors. It works to just barely lift the saw and glide it across the floor.

Anyone who's got a sloped or beat-up floor (ie, garage shop) is not going to get enough lift to make it work well.

When my honey-do list is shorter, I'm going to build a workable lift system for my saw.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Porphyre said:


> ....When my honey-do list is shorter,....


...good one! LOL... :laughing:


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