# Cheap Joinery Tools



## Jwolf24601 (Dec 4, 2009)

Being VERY budget limited I am looking for the best "bang for your buck" tools so I may progress my skills and projects.

I would like to make dovetails, mortises, and edge joint wood for wider pannels.

I figure I will need:

A decent gent saw for mortises and dovetails
1 or 2 chisels
joint plane

Can anyone recommend some tools that would allow me to do what I want without having to eat Top Ramen 3meals a day.

Internet deals are preferable, good quality used tools are acceptable, though if Ebay is suggested what should I look for?

Thanks,

Josh (Jwolf24601)


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## edp (May 25, 2007)

What's wrong with Top Ramen?

Ed


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Tools*

Do you have a router?
Even if its a box store cheapo or pawn shop cheapo it can be used to edge joint.
I have a 1/4" collet Skill that I bought at a pawn shop a few years back. It was used only a few times. I use it to edge joint since that process does not require alot of mustangs.


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## Jwolf24601 (Dec 4, 2009)

edp said:


> What's wrong with Top Ramen?
> 
> Ed


nothing, it is currently my daily lunch  especially good with some crushed red peppers.




Texas Sawduster said:


> Do you have a router?
> Even if its a box store cheapo or pawn shop cheapo it can be used to edge joint.
> I have a 1/4" collet Skill that I bought at a pawn shop a few years back. It was used only a few times. I use it to edge joint since that process does not require alot of mustangs.


I do have a router, but not a router table. What bit would I use for that? Jig?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Use a piloted straight bit. You can use one with the pilot bearing on top or bottom. All you need is a straight edge reference for the bearing to follow. As far as hand tools go. Are you a push or pull saw kinda guy?


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Router Bit*

ACP is correct. Usa a pilot straight bit with a bearing either at the shank or end of the bit depending on how you have your workpiece set. The bearing ride up agains a surface to guide the router bit.
Example: place a piece of mdf, ply, pine on top of your workpiece and the bearing that is next to the shank will ride against this. The bearing will follow the edge of what you use as a template so make sure it is straight and without any surface imperfections as it may follow them.


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

A router table is the simplest thing in the world.
A flat top with a hole. Clamp on a board for a fence.
It only needs to be high enough for the router to
fit under it. Some 2X legs and a few deck screws.

MDF, ply. OSB even.

Pawn shops are a good bet with the economy what
it is.

I got a 1/2hp B&D for $5 and it is just right for a
lot of jobs. Small and light. The nicest thing about
it is it has a micrometer adjustment that is dead
on. A whole lot better than the plastic wheel on
my big Craftsman.

I have a set of Fuller chisels, they are not high $
but hold an edge well and have served me fine
for many years. 1/4 to 1 1/2.


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## Jwolf24601 (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks for the tips on using a router to edge!

I think I will try to improvise a router table this weekend.

How bad are Stanley Chisels? I got a $25 gift card to lowes for Christmas.

Since this is the hand tools forum some info on jointing hand planes would be nice too


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## Jwolf24601 (Dec 4, 2009)

ACP said:


> Use a piloted straight bit. You can use one with the pilot bearing on top or bottom. All you need is a straight edge reference for the bearing to follow. As far as hand tools go. Are you a push or pull saw kinda guy?


Only hand saws I have used cut on both push and pull stroke. I like the idea of the western saw though that cuts on the push stroke.


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## redbeard (Dec 5, 2009)

Josh,
I go between the western style and japanese style saws, they both have their place. If you are looking for a set of chisels and are on a limited budget, like a $25 gift certificate from lowes, I would look to see if they carry the irwin chisels and get a sharpening stone as soon as you can. Any of the lower end tools that you buy, chisels or hand planes, are going to need regular tune ups. If you are looking to a Jointing plane you may want to look at 
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005276/GROZ-Bench-Planes.aspx
and you can find reviews all over the place on these tools. I think Fine Woodworking just did a review on Planes, happy tool shopping


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Not knowing your budget, or willingness to fiddle with things here goes...

Stanley Fat Max from Home Depot, or preferrably Irwin Marples chisels from Lowes are decent low dollar chisels. No matter cheap, or expensive, chisels need to be sharpened and honed just like any other blade. The cheapest route to that is sandpaper, spray adhesive, and scrap hardboard... The Stanley Fat Max chisels so far have served me well. I have no problem with them at all, and actually they perform very nicely out of the box...

I am getting to where I prefer my Marples Japanese style pull saw. It was well under $25.00, I think on sale it was something like $19.00 or so... Well worth it. It cuts EXACTLY where I want it to...

The Groz #7 is quite affordable at $66.00 on sale at Woodcraft right now. I have a Groz #4 and really like it. You will need to lap the sole, sharpen the iron, and overall just set the thing up. Then again, you would have to do that with any plane shy of a Lie Nielsen, or a Veritas...


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Chisels*



Jwolf24601 said:


> Thanks for the tips on using a router to edge!
> 
> I think I will try to improvise a router table this weekend.
> 
> ...


If you got to Lowe's check into the Irwin brand chisels. I usually use my Buck brand chisels for what I call "banging". This is usually carpentry type uses. For more refinded work I use my Irvin. For fine work as in furniture, etc., get a good mid to high end brand. You can get them one at a time depending on what width you need for the job. Also if you have the cash get a good series of Norton Japanese wet stones and a jig for the high end blades. I agree that a fine grit wet sandpaper (usually automotive grade will work) on your "banging" type chisels will suffice.

I would check around on the hand planes. Go junk store (antique) shopping with the wife. You can get older model Stanley planes at these places for a decent price. You will have to do some work on them usually to remove surface rust, sharpen the blade and maybe replace or repair the handle/grip. If you want new and can afford it take a look at Lee-Nielson.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I got the Groz #4, #5 and low angle block for Christmas. The #4 is fixin to be sent back. The 5 is really good and the jury is still out on the low angle block. The 4 just won't work for me. It's flat, but I can't get the blade to pull back far enough. At furthest back the throat is over 1/8 inch wide. It doesn't do what it is supposed to; smooth. I have a #3 Woodriver that should be here tomorrow. I'll see how that does. I learned my handtool from trial and error, internet info and mostly good books. Books. Books.... Half.com is a great place to find cheap books on the topic if you are interested.


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## BIP (Dec 21, 2009)

Texas Sawduster said:


> ..... If you want new and can afford it take a look at Lee-Nielson.


 
Be very careful.....that's a slippery slope.....


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## redbeard (Dec 5, 2009)

DANG BIP ! Now thats a drawer I wish I had to pull out of a cabinet.


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## DerekG (Dec 28, 2009)

BIP said:


> Be very careful.....that's a slippery slope.....


Beautiful, I think that drawer cost more than my entire shop


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## MuseumWood (Mar 6, 2010)

Check out Highland Woodworking or Tools for Woodworking. They speak woodworking and handle good to excellent tools. What do you mean about a joint plane? Rabbet? If you use a router, don't forget the hearing protection and dust protection/control because many woods are allergenic (tropical), toxic (black walnut) or carcinogenic.

A picky note, Josh. You need the saw for tenons and dovetails. Gent saws tend to be small and a bit awkward. You might want to spring ($140 each) for a good tenon (crosscut) and dovetail (rip) saw. You will need augers or mortising chisels ($40 each) for the mortises. Unless you want to practice a good bit, I suggest augering out the waste from your mortises and cleaning them up with paring chisels.

Make sure you have good sharpening equipment, be it oil stones, water stones, abrasive paper on glass, etc. No mater what you get, it won't matter if it isn't properly sharpened and it can't be too sharp. The finish will be poor, the work harder and quite possibly dangerous when you substitute force for sharpness and lose control.


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