# Craftsman tablesaw question



## itin1200 (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi folks. Been reading this great forum for awhile, but just registered. 

I have a question about Craftsman tablesaw models. Not a Craftsman power tool fan at all, but I do like their hand tools.

Seems to be a consensus that some of the old Craftsman table saws were pretty good, but, as with a lot of their tools, the new models just aren't. 

Craftsman saws pop up on craigslist pretty regularly around here, but never have models numbers or any identifies in the description. Would love some advice on what model numbers to look for, what to avoid, etc.

Any and all responses welcome.

Thanks--Bill


----------



## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

I recently bought two of these saws, one, model 113.298760, has the cast iron wings while the other, 113.298032, has the steel wings. From what I can tell, there are so many model (catalog) numbers out there for what is essentially the same base saw. The other numbers will have different fences or motor speeds, casters, etc.

Of the two, I like the 113.298760 best as it develops 3hp and has those cast iron wings. This saw's fence was also slightly different (not necessarily better) than the other in that it is easier to lock/unlock with a lever versus the twist version.

Either way, both are heavy, stable and accurate. Simplest thing to do is ask questions of the seller as to what options the saw in question has and ask for pictures. Many of the manuals can be found online so if you do get a catalog number you should be able to find it.

Mac

Model 113.298760 (before I cleaned it up)









Model 113.298032


----------



## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

By the way, Bill, welcome to the forum! :thumbsup:

Mac


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

"Seems to be a consensus that some of the old Craftsman table saws were pretty good, but, as with a lot of their tools, the new models just aren't. "

I would certainly disagree with you that there is a "consensus." Just a few very vocal people who seem to have some bone to pick with Sears. I personally like must of their powered tools very much. Of course I treat my tools with respect and they seem to reciprocate.

George


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

It's really more a matter of saw type than brand name. Craftsman had/has some cheapie lightweight entry level table saws that are junk regardless of who's nameplate is on them (Tradesman, Skil, B&D, etc) Sears also had/has some nice full size contractor and hybrid saws with belt drive induction motors that are competitive with any brand of the comparable class from Delta, Jet, GI, Grizzly, Steel City, Ridgid, Hitachi, Shop Fox, Bridgewood, etc. 

In general, I avoid the small light weight aluminum, plastic, and pot metal saws with direct drive universal motors. The exceptions are if you need a portable jobsite saw...there are good examples from Bosdch, Ridgid, and DW. 

Sears sells a wide variety of tools to a wide variety of markets, from a wide variety of quality, price, and performance levels....they sell a ton of them, so it's not hard to hear of a bad experience (or a good one). Forming an opinion on an entire line of tools based on a bad experience with a cheap entry level or outdated model is naive and inaccurate, but it happens frequently enough based on emotion, not fact. Sears does make some decent tools, and some junkers...it's best to evaluate each tool on it's own merit. 

The odds are good if you stick with an Emerson made 113.###### like the one shown above (it's nearly the same as a Ridgid contractor saw), or a TTI/Ryobi made full size cast iron 315.######, or a Steel City/Orion made 152.######, you'll have a good saw. The key to any of them performing well is setup and good blade choice.


----------



## itin1200 (Jul 25, 2010)

Thanks for the great advice guys. And sorry GeorgeC, didn't mean to offend.

The day after I started this thread a saw appeared on craigslist. Seller stated he was selling an older Craftsman saw because a HD near him had clearanced a Ridgid saw, and he didn't need two.

In fact, his new saw would take center stage in the new shop he just built using the old saw.

Only wanted $90, even threw in a slightly used $40 Freud blade. Seems to be in pretty good shape, and it just purred when turned on.

It's a Model 113.298761 with cast iron wings, looks just like Mr. Mac's first pic. Dismantled it slightly to fit it in the back of my jeep, and now it's sitting in my dining room.

Looks pretty good there!

I think I'll be happy with it, and couldn't argue with the price. Unfortunately, I have a long stretch of work coming up, so won't get to play with it for a couple weeks. Can't wait.


----------



## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

<< _...and now it's sitting in my dining room. Looks pretty good there!_>>

And it's probably big enough for four place settings!

Just kidding! Sounds like you have a winner. Good luck with it!

Bill


----------



## itin1200 (Jul 25, 2010)

Doesn't everyone need a cast iron dining room table with a built in carving knife?

I guess I'll need a combo blade for both the meat and the potatoes...


----------



## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

Leave the blade sinning and you can toss chicken bones on it and launch them to the garbage can 20 feet away! :thumbsup:

Congrats on the saw Bill and many happy cuts ahead! 

Mac


----------



## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Itin,

Once you get done serving dinner on it, some suggested upgrades I have seen for this machine are a link belt, a new blade and (if your wallet can take it) a good fence system. You can buy these things from the money you saved from not needing a new dining room table! :thumbsup:

Bill


----------



## woodpecker89 (Jul 14, 2013)

*cratman table saws*

I am about to list my sears 10" table saw on Craiges,list. 
I'm moving cross county at the end of the month.
The older models have cast iron tables and extentions, I added a 50" vaga fence and rails to my unit and added a small cabinet to shore up the rails everything has worked great.
I'm putting it non the market because of the move and I'm now retired.
This setup at the store retails for $650.00, I need a quick sale, I'm asking for 325.00 (half).
I'm in mass. north of Boston, it sounds like I have what your looking for, if interested and near by let me know!

[email protected]


----------



## stillhave10 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi ppl, this is my first post here so be gentle.

Anyway, I just snagged one of these yesterday: 113.298761

Dodgeboy77 suggested some upgrades like a 'link belt' and new rails & rip guide. 

What is and why a link belt?

Where would one buy these upgrades? Is somebody still selling things for these old saws or are they something that is universally fitted to a variety of saws? Are there brands of this stuff that are preferred?

Ad(thanks)vance


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

stillhave10fingers said:


> Hi ppl, this is my first post here so be gentle.
> 
> Anyway, I just snagged one of these yesterday: 113.298761
> 
> ...


One of the most common brands of link belts is Power Twist by Fenner:
http://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist-plus/

They are available from most tool stores, Rockler sells them.

Standard style vee belts tend to want to retain the shape of the belt as it sits wrapped around the pulleys when not in use. Once you start the machine the belt will cause the machine to vibrate.

Link belts are made up of individual links so they cannot retain the curvature so run very smoothly.

They are adjusted for length by removing or adding more links.

In certain applications where a pulley is between two frames the shaft has to be removed to change a belt, this is not necessary as link belts can be undone, wrapped around the shaft and joined again.

The one disadvantage of a link belt is that they will only run in one direction so will not work on a machine that has a reverse feature.


----------



## pweller (Mar 10, 2014)

I have one of these saws. There are really two problems associated with the belt. The first is that the pulleys are cast, and they can be significantly out of round. The second is the issue of the belt taking a set like FrankC indicated above.

I got a new set of pulleys and a serpentine belt on ebay, that was used on the later Ridgid version of this saw (though it's pretty much a drop-in fit on these older C-mans). I think this is a better solution than the link-belt, and the cost is pretty reasonable. These pulleys are machined from steel, and run very true.

Here's the kit I bought on ebay: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ridgid-Craf...973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ecda540fd


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

If I still had my old 113. saw, and those pulleys were really machined steel, for $28.50, I would buy them over a link belt setup anyday.


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Unfortunately it would cost another $38.00 to get them to Canada in postage and brokerage fees, they do look like a nice setup though.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

itin1200 said:


> Doesn't everyone need a cast iron dining room table with a built in carving knife?
> 
> I guess I'll need a combo blade for both the meat and the potatoes...


Put a really good blade on it. It will improve the cut 100%. 

Al


----------



## jaybird302 (Jul 16, 2014)

New guy here, needing some advice...
I just bought a 315. Ryobi model for $50 on CL. The guy said the motor was having issues. Sure enough it is. But for $50 I couldn't pass it up as I'm pretty handy and can fix most anything. The issue is probably pretty common, but I'm new to the game so any advice would be appreciated. 

So, when turned on, the motor lags before it spins up. Once running, it's great, it just pulls a ton of amps trying to get started. This is all with the belt off. With the belt on it trips the breaker. I've already checked the arbor and it spins perfectly. The belt is a bit stiff due to age, but a properly functioning motor should have no problem overcoming that. I've already replaced both capacitors and checked the bearings and start switch. All seem to be in proper order. I'm trying to avoid buying a new motor, but that's what this is looking like unless someone has some sage wisdom they wouldn't mind sharing. Sears was no help what so ever..... The "lady" told me "go look it up on Youtube, cause I can't help you"... Really??? Anyway. Thanks in advance guys, I really appreciate it.

Jay


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

jaybird302 said:


> New guy here, needing some advice...
> I just bought a 315. Ryobi model for $50 on CL. The guy said the motor was having issues. Sure enough it is. But for $50 I couldn't pass it up as I'm pretty handy and can fix most anything. The issue is probably pretty common, but I'm new to the game so any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> So, when turned on, the motor lags before it spins up. Once running, it's great, it just pulls a ton of amps trying to get started. This is all with the belt off. With the belt on it trips the breaker. I've already checked the arbor and it spins perfectly. The belt is a bit stiff due to age, but a properly functioning motor should have no problem overcoming that. I've already replaced both capacitors and checked the bearings and start switch. All seem to be in proper order. I'm trying to avoid buying a new motor, but that's what this is looking like unless someone has some sage wisdom they wouldn't mind sharing. Sears was no help what so ever..... The "lady" told me "go look it up on Youtube, cause I can't help you"... Really??? Anyway. Thanks in advance guys, I really appreciate it.
> ...


Sounds to my inexperienced ears like theres a short in the starter windings somewhere. Would account for the massive amp draw on starting as well as the motor running fine when its spinning


----------



## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

jaybird302 said:


> New guy here, needing some advice...
> I just bought a 315. Ryobi model for $50 on CL. The guy said the motor was having issues. Sure enough it is. But for $50 I couldn't pass it up as I'm pretty handy and can fix most anything. The issue is probably pretty common, but I'm new to the game so any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> So, when turned on, the motor lags before it spins up. Once running, it's great, it just pulls a ton of amps trying to get started. This is all with the belt off. With the belt on it trips the breaker. I've already checked the arbor and it spins perfectly. The belt is a bit stiff due to age, but a properly functioning motor should have no problem overcoming that. I've already replaced both capacitors and checked the bearings and start switch. All seem to be in proper order. I'm trying to avoid buying a new motor, but that's what this is looking like unless someone has some sage wisdom they wouldn't mind sharing. Sears was no help what so ever..... The "lady" told me "go look it up on Youtube, cause I can't help you"... Really??? Anyway. Thanks in advance guys, I really appreciate it.
> ...


don't know which motor you have but inside their is what they call a start run plate , it slides on the motor shaft when in off it is in 
the start run contact's this starts the motor turning and at a certian speed the plate piece on the shaft slide's forward and into the run contact's now motor is running like it should, but with out getting inside this is just a guess, the piece that slides on the shaft may be stuck on the place may be stuck in the run position now at the start up ? you didn't say if this is a capacitor motor , like a cap. on the outside under a round cover ? than a different story ? best to just take it to a good shop and get a estimate , or take it apart , it doesn't work right now ? good luck


----------



## Tman1 (Jan 14, 2013)

Jay,


Since you said you replaced the capacitors (plural not singular), it is not likely a short in the start winding. A two capacitor motor uses the start winding for running as well as starting. 

A few things to try:

1 - If you are using an extension cord, try plugging it directly into the wall. All table saw motors will pull a lot of amps when starting. But, it should start fast enough that it is not an issue. If an extension cord with too small of a gage is used, the voltage will sag significantly and the motor will take longer to get up to speed. 

2 - If you trip plugged directly into the wall, try using an outlet with a higher amp rating or one closer to the circuit breaker. If this motor was designed for a 20amp breaker or you have older wiring (10 amp circuits), you could have the same issue as in number 1 above. 

3 - you could check for a stuck start switch. But, this is probably not the issue unless it is stuck open. When you run the motor by itself, do you here a snap as it comes up to speed and/ or coasts down? Does the switch move freely by hand (with the motor unplugged for safety). Also, use an ohm meter to make sure the switch contacts are closed when they should be closed and open when they should be open. 

4 - You could try going up or down in capacitance on the start capacitor (the larger of the two). In general, going up should get it to have more starting torque, helping it to start faster and hopefully not trip the breaker. But, it will also draw more amps while it is starting, which would hurt if this is due to voltage sag. Going lower would reduce the starting torque so it may start slower. But, it will also reduce the current, so it may help with voltage sag and actually minimize the reduction in torque. Changing the capacitance is a longer shot especially without access to the motor design and I would only recommend doing this if you had a way to easily do this in small increments. 

5 - it could be an issue with the connections, especially to the start capacitor. 

Good luck.


----------



## bandit002 (May 19, 2018)

I Have a Craftsman tablesaw 10" Model # 315.218050 Whats size stack or adjustable dado blades would this saw use. Thanks


----------



## Mycrossover (May 18, 2018)

knotscott said:


> It's really more a matter of saw type than brand name. Craftsman had/has some cheapie lightweight entry level table saws that are junk regardless of who's nameplate is on them (Tradesman, Skil, B&D, etc) Sears also had/has some nice full size contractor and hybrid saws with belt drive induction motors that are competitive with any brand of the comparable class from Delta, Jet, GI, Grizzly, Steel City, Ridgid, Hitachi, Shop Fox, Bridgewood, etc.
> 
> In general, I avoid the small light weight aluminum, plastic, and pot metal saws with direct drive universal motors. The exceptions are if you need a portable jobsite saw...there are good examples from Bosdch, Ridgid, and DW.
> 
> ...


They don't sell a ton of anything any more. The shelves are bare, many suppliers have deserted them. In recent years in comparitive magazine reviews of wood shop equipment there is usually a footnote saying that the Craftsman is similar to some other import being reviewed. They don't have to point out that the Craftsman is priced 100 bucks higher than the other one. Sears stock is down to $3 a share. Every month they close dozens of Sears and K Marts. They sold Craftsman to Stanley Black and Decker and are looking to sell other Sears brands and properties to raise cash. Lambert, the head of Sears Holdings is looking to come out of the cillapse with as much cash as he can. Nobody thinks Sears is long for this world. Gone by the end of the year.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------

