# Keyhole router jig



## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

I was wondering in anyone had a plan for a jig for cutting keyhole slots with a router. I tried free handing and it didn't turn out so well.  I appreciate any help.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

Ted Tolstad said:


> I was wondering in anyone had a plan for a jig for cutting keyhole slots with a router. I tried free handing and it didn't turn out so well.  I appreciate any help.


Do you mean little decorative ones like on a Jewelry box ? If so I'll get pics tomorrow for you

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## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

I am actually talking about cutting keyhole's for hanging items. Like in the back of shelves and whatnot. Sorry that I didn't make that clear.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

Use a bit with a pattern cut collar. Measure from outside of color to bit . Measure size you want keyhole to be calculate difference. Draw it out in a piece if 1/2" now the hard part cut out this. Good thing you only need one good one and then your ready to go

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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Ted Tolstad said:


> I was wondering in anyone had a plan for a jig for cutting keyhole slots with a router. I tried free handing and it didn't turn out so well.  I appreciate any help.


This can be done on a router table by setting up stop blocks on your fence right and left of your bit. Set up is a PITA but it works. Definitely make test cuts on scrap.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Ted Tolstad said:


> I was wondering in anyone had a plan for a jig for cutting keyhole slots with a router. I tried free handing and it didn't turn out so well.  I appreciate any help.


Not much of a plan needed. Just something with some slots in it to fit guide bushings,,,, you do use a bushing in conjunction with a key slot cutter for that application? 
Here's a source for a commercial version..
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v400-1909/picture_framing
:smile:


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

You'll have the best luck with a plunge router, makes the operation very easy. All you would need is a straight edge to guide the router with some stop blocks, one for the start of the plunge cut, one for the end of the cut while the router is at depth, plunge down, move ahead, stop. Without a plunge router, you would have to drop the work piece on the bit using a router table or drop the router on the work using the router by hand. In all cases, you need a straight edge guide with start and stop blocks. Whether you use the base of the router against the straight edge or a template guide, doesn't matter but without a plunge router, you have to make the drop very carefully.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

+1 to HAMMER1. A plunge router is a must. I don't use stop blocks just a mark on the wood and that works for me. I use the key holes for wall mounted gun racks and I supply a cabinet screw with each rack. You can clamp a square on the work as a guide for the routers edge. I make sure I have at least 1/4" or more material for the screws support in 3/4" material.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Personally, I prefer to use a jig. Main reason I suppose is I always do keyholes in two cuts, the first to route a groove to take out most of the waste and the second to actually put iin the keyhole. Jig allows me to hit the same spot twice in a row:yes:


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

If I understand, you actually change bits, one to clean out material and the other to make the key hole. I guess the jig would be a good idea. I just don't like to mess with the guide bushing it seem every time I take one in and out it is very difficult to align the bushing, but I like your idea. I have a PC router and PC bushings.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Bob Willing said:


> If I understand, you actually change bits, one to clean out material and the other to make the key hole. I guess the jig would be a good idea. I just don't like to mess with the guide bushing it seem every time I take one in and out it is very difficult to align the bushing, but I like your idea. I have a PC router and PC bushings.


Hmmm, that doesn't sound right. What model router do you have? The PC style bushings should be interchangeable/swappable without re-centering if you are using a counter bored base/adapter. 
Just got to thinking (not always a good thing). Does your router use counter *sunk* or counter *bored* screws to attach the baseplate? If using flat head screws and countersinks, I'd recommend you switch to pan head screws with slightly oversized and counterbored holes. The problem with countersinks is, no matter how hard you try to adjust the position of the plate, tightening the screws will pull it back out of alignment.:thumbdown:


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

jschaben said:


> Hmmm, that doesn't sound right. What model router do you have? The PC style bushings should be interchangeable/swappable without re-centering if you are using a counter bored base/adapter.
> Just got to thinking (not always a good thing). Does your router use counter *sunk* or counter *bored* screws to attach the baseplate? If using flat head screws and countersinks, I'd recommend you switch to pan head screws with slightly oversized and counterbored holes. The problem with countersinks is, no matter how hard you try to adjust the position of the plate, tightening the screws will pull it back out of alignment.:thumbdown:


The PC routers I have are counter sunk. Not sure what I would use to counter bore them to keep the bore on center.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Bob Willing said:


> The PC routers I have are counter sunk. Not sure what I would use to counter bore them to keep the bore on center.


Forstner bit works pretty well. The point of slightly oversized holes, pan head screws and flat bottom counterbores to provide the ability is to compensate for slight variances.


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## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

Hammer1 said:


> You'll have the best luck with a plunge router, makes the operation very easy. All you would need is a straight edge to guide the router with some stop blocks, one for the start of the plunge cut, one for the end of the cut while the router is at depth, plunge down, move ahead, stop. Without a plunge router, you would have to drop the work piece on the bit using a router table or drop the router on the work using the router by hand. In all cases, you need a straight edge guide with start and stop blocks. Whether you use the base of the router against the straight edge or a template guide, doesn't matter but without a plunge router, you have to make the drop very carefully.


Thanks. This is more what I am looking for. I do have a plunge router and tried marking a line and following it and it resembles a road map more than a straight line. I was just curious if anyone might have built this type of jig before and might have pictures or whatnot. I am not the most inventive. :smile:


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