# A question on pre stain wood conditioners



## Derryl James

I'm working on a mirrored dressing table made of oak . I've noticed that some of my other projects the stain seems blotchy (for a lack of a better word). 
I was wondering if a pre stain wood conditioner would help or am i maybe doing something else wrong !
I use water based stains from miniwax and polycrylic from miniwax as well . 
Wonder if anyone else has had this problem and if so how did you fix it ?
Thanks 
Derryl


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## Rob

I've never used any water-based stain or finish (think I better start learning though)
I use a lot of oak in different projects but never have I had any of the oak "blotch". I've had to deal with the pores continuing to "weep" for days at a time but never blotch.
This might be something indicative to water-based...dunno.


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## breakfastchef

The Minwax Conditioner does a decent job of sealing off some of the more porous parts of the wood to give your stain a decent chance of being more even. I have used it on a few antique refinishing jobs involving pine with good success. Oak has not been a problem for me, though.


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## firehawkmph

If you have sanded the oak piece the same througout, you shouldn't have any problem with blotching. Oak is pretty hard to screw up. I haven't used any water based stains eithter. I am not a big minwax fan. For oil based stain, I like Sherwin Williams house brand much better. Not as thin and watery as minwax, easier to control.
Mike Hawkins:smile:


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## jerry

Oak accepts any stain well-pigment or dye-.

Jerry


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## cusingeorge

The latest generation of waterborne stains are far, far, better than what we were trying to make back in the 20th century. 

While they do still raise the grain, it's not nearly as bad as it used to be, and you can usually solve this small issue by white-wood sanding to 240 or 280 grit. We have tested under every concieveable finishing system, from waterborne lacquer to UV curable, with no problems. 

I would not worry too much about changes in what you are able to use though, unless you expel 200 tons or more of any VOC or combination of VOC in a 12 month period. The really big shops are the ones that have to meet the latest in regulations, since they have more money to pay in violations.


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## Just Bill

Wood conditioners are generally a good idea with soft woods such as pine, but as suggested above, rarely needed with oak.


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## mmtools

I have only used minwax WB a coupleof times. Was not happy with result:thumbdown: Too thin, not enough pigment--- Really like the General finishes :yes:product line, if you can find it locally. They have WB, oil, and topcoats that perform VERY well


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## Barry Ward

I have used the waterbased stains quite a bit,but like has already been said,to me oak is one of the easiest woods to stain,but with water based stains,you have to make sure your wood is clean of any oil residue as that can cause blotching.You don't need the pre stain conditioner for oak.Also if the wood is still a little green it will not stain very well with the waterbased stain.What I always do right before I apply the stain is to wipe the wood down with a good pre cleaner to remove any glue or oil residue,then try not to handle the wood any more than necessary as the oil from your hands can cause it to blotch.Hope this helps.Also Michael dresner(I believe thats the name) has several great books on staining and if you plan on staining an great del,that might not be a bad investment.
Ken


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## Rob

I've posted this before but since we are on the subject...
Two Christmases ago, I made a bunch of lap desks from white pine. I wanted to give them an old, used look and did some research on the net. I'm pretty sure it was the Briwax website that had this great tip for keeping the pine from blotching.
Mix a solution of 50/50 liquid drain opener and water together and apply liberally with a rag or brush. Let dry overnight and sand down the raised grain before applying the stain.
I was really impressed with the results and got no blotching at all. The wood turns a bright (I mean bright) yellow when first applied but goes back to its original color after it dries. The directions said that because it is such a dilute solution, no neutralizing was needed. 
I too have used the Minwax Wood Conditioner and haven't been pleased with the results. This, however, worked like a charm.


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