# Myrtlewood slab



## newbomb (Dec 29, 2010)

I recently was given this slab of myrtlewood. I plan on making a coffee table out of it. It is approximately 40"x18" and 1 1/4" thick.

I have no idea what to use for stain and/or sealing. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Todd


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## STL_apprentice (Dec 20, 2010)

I don't have enough experince to provide any advice, but it sure it nice


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## sketel (Sep 15, 2010)

West system epoxy will give a nice, hard, clear coat that you can pour on thick. The company I used to work for used it on a few bar tops and it holds up really well. I never was the one that used it though, so not exactly sure about the application.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

newbomb said:


> I have no idea what to use for *stain* and/or *sealing*. Any ideas?


The first thing I would suggest is to wipe the thought of "stain" out of your vocabulary. "Stain" is called "stain" for a reason. To make cheap wood look expensive, so to speak. Don't you dare hide the natural beauty of that slab behind a wall of chemicals or compounds just because shyster woodworkers exploited the few legitimate uses of stain in the past. 

AFA the "sealing", you want a proper "finish", but the finish should always be the first thing decided on before a project even begins. That sounds alien to most woodworkers but it's true. If you complete the project and then give thought to how you will finish it ("seal" as you say) then you didn't plan properly. 

For a coffee table, we have a pretty good idea of the finishes that offer the best overall finish for the species/environment etc. but we still need more info. Do you have any idea of the MC? MC is a measure of how much moisture is in the wood. That's extremely important to know. On top of all this, what woodworking skills do you have? 


You don't want trash a piece like this if you can help it. I applaud you for asking - and welcome to our community. 














.


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## newbomb (Dec 29, 2010)

TexasTimbers said:


> The first thing I would suggest is to wipe the thought of "stain" out of your vocabulary.


Won't mention it again.



TexasTimbers said:


> AFA the "sealing", you want a proper "finish", but the finish should always be the first thing decided on before a project even begins.


That is why the slab looks as it was -- untouched.



TexasTimbers said:


> For a coffee table, we have a pretty good idea of the finishes that offer the best overall finish for the species/environment etc.


Please give more details.



TexasTimbers said:


> Do you have any idea of the MC?


Do not have an actual number, but this sat in a great aunts garage for years and years. I have actually had it for about two years -- sitting in my house (inside) behind my office door.



TexasTimbers said:


> On top of all this, what woodworking skills do you have?


Skills, patience and time are all interrelated. I have very good skills. Patience is moderate, and time is of the essence. I have a family with two young kids, and do not have a lot of time. However, with a piece like this, I can convince myself to take a bit of time to do it right. But it is just a coffee table. Just looking to put a nice HW base (cherry, ...) with a few cross members for support. I have the tools required to do it.

Todd


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## bobd (Apr 1, 2010)

*Great looking slab*

If you don't know the age of the slab check with a moisture meter to insure it is dry enough to work. I would prep both sides and sand to 180 grit. Then I would apply a generous coat of BLO (boiled linseed oil) on the bottom side to bring out the natural beauty of the wood. Allow the BLO to absorb fully into all areas of the slab for about 15 minutes then wipe it off completely with paper towels. Check the slab several times over 8 hours and wipe off any excess BLO that seeps out of the pores of the wood. Be careful to hang the towels to dry before disgarding so as to avoid spontaneous combustion. Let the slab dry for at least 24 hours in a heated shop. Second, seal the oil coat with a coat of shellac and allow to dry for a couple hours. Now your ready to apply several top coats of wiping varnish and you should have a beautiful piece. Now if satisfied do the same thing to the top and edges. Good luck and post some pics when your finished. Bob.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

TexasTimbers said:


> The first thing I would suggest is to wipe the thought of "stain" out of your vocabulary. "Stain" is called "stain" for a reason. To make cheap wood look expensive, so to speak. Don't you dare hide the natural beauty of that slab behind a wall of chemicals or compounds just because shyster woodworkers exploited the few legitimate uses of stain in the past.
> .


Very well said. +1


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Todd,

I missed your reply back in December somehow - my apologies. Bob gave some good advice and here's another method to consider by Charles Neil. While he uses stains and dyes more than I like, in this case it's a "secret weapon" so to speak because it's being used as a "trace coat" and to swell the softer-grained curl. Watch the video and you'll see what I mean. 








I wouldn't add any stain or dye after the final sanding and you won't really be staining the wood per se, just using it to bring out the curl and other figure while the wood in between stays natural. The higher the sheen of your finish the more chatoyance, and that's what you're after. 








.


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## newbomb (Dec 29, 2010)

bobd said:


> I would apply a generous coat of BLO (boiled linseed oil)


I have been debating the BLO. Doing the bottom is a good idea -- especially if it is not exactly what you are looking for.

The other option I was considering is Waterlox only, (no BLO). Anyone have thoughts on using simply 4-5 coats of Waterlox original?

Todd


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## newbomb (Dec 29, 2010)

bobd said:


> Good luck and post some pics when your finished. Bob.


Well, I haven't glued it together yet, but I took some pictures. If I don't post them now, I bet that I never will. So here they are.


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## newbomb (Dec 29, 2010)

Forgot this pic of the top.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Amazing freakin' grain! :yes:


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## NorCal Scot (Dec 31, 2010)

Wickedly cool grain! Please tell about the finish. I have a few bf of myrtle and would like decent finish results.


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## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

i could stare at that last one all day. i think i just spent 10 minutes already. gorgeous..


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Todd that's one of the most beautiful pieces of wood I've seen. Absolutely amazing. 

I don't know why but for some reason I'm not getting notifications on this thread. I'm glad I noticed it. So did you end up using the Waterlox? Also what is that streak on the top, is it permanent? 

Great job on the use of the slab - I like what you did with it. 




.


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## davelindgren (Aug 25, 2010)

OMG! That is beautifullllllll! I LOVE the grain pattern


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## newbomb (Dec 29, 2010)

TexasTimbers said:


> So did you end up using the Waterlox?


Yes, Waterlox original. Sanded with 150, four coats, with a light 320 before the last coat. The 320 unfortunately left a few very minor scratches that I thought would disappear with the last coat. They are _barely_ visible. Still considering what to do about that.



TexasTimbers said:


> Also what is that streak on the top, is it permanent?
> 
> .


If you are referring to the dark streak in the center starting from the left, I believe that is just darker grain. It does not appear to be a foreign substance.


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## PhilomathFrolics (May 19, 2014)

How has this finish held up?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

PhilomathFrolics said:


> How has this finish held up?


He hasn't been here in three years. I don't think he will see your message.


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## Wapiti (Jul 27, 2015)

I just wanted to thank you guys for the quick advice. I was standing in Lowe's, did a quick search, found this post, and this is one coat of teak oil on a piece of super dry Myrtle wood. I haven't even started with the super fine grit or wool. It's soaking it up pretty quick, so I'm layering it in slowly, but really really thanks for solid advice in a few sentences!


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