# Viability of chainsaw milling



## GISer3546 (Jan 30, 2013)

I've been researching milling my own stock and have just started considering a chainsaw and jig similar to this:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...hzgZw9KTDjcm8FG1h2NsU4pilP1ay1o3f0aAkgw8P8HAQ

I am aware of the horribly wide kerf of chainsaws but the price seems about like what it would cost to have the milling done. I would mostly use this to cut it into manageable pieces then do the final cuts on my Laguna BS.

I'm also wondering what kind of specs I should look for in a chainsaw that could handle this.


----------



## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

I was hoping someone with an actual CSM would have replied by now. Since I've kicked around the idea from time to time, I share with you what I've gathered. ANYONE with more experience, Please correct me or add to my comments.

They say the bigger, the better. Something like the 660 always comes up as the desired Cu in (5.6). But if you only have a log every now and then, then maybe you could get by with a 440 (4.3 cu in).

Breaking down a log with a CSM and then finishing the milling process with a band saw is what I was thinking about, too.


----------



## GISer3546 (Jan 30, 2013)

Those numbers have me a little confused. 5.6 cubic inches is roughly 92 cc. Looking at my local big box store the chainsaws they have are only about 50 to 60 cc... and only get that big after being priced around $500 to $900.


----------



## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Yes, that's what's stopped me from getting into it. The big box stores are probably going to only offer saws for the home owners (ie. 50 - 60 cc range). That's like the Stihl 362 (59 cc) or the 391 (64 cc - pro). You could do what you want to do with one of these saws, but it would be hard on them if you did it regularly. Then again if you are only squaring up a log into a cant for your bandsaw, that's different. You wouldn't be taking a 24 " wide cut. If you want to do the bigger logs (24"+) then you would need more ccs (80+). And the price there is $900+.


----------



## Catalina (Jun 11, 2010)

GISer3546, you may take a look at the below post, and do a little digging for old posts-been a lot of us in your shoes. 
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/making-your-own-lumber-mill-21949/

Gene


----------



## walnutavenue (Nov 9, 2011)

So far all of my milling experience has been with logs shorter than 48". That's long enough to cover the lumber needs of any small project, and many pieces of furniture. I can always use purchased boards for the longer pieces. Like you I use the bandsaw for the milling, but need to cut logs down to be able to lift them. For that I freehand rip cuts using a Stihl saw with a 20" bar. Most logs I rip in half, but if needed I cut them again into quarters. I'm sure I'd get better results with a proper chainsaw milling setup, but freehand works well enough to make me happy. Th biggest problem is how quickly chains will wear out. I recommend getting a chain sharpener and learning to sharpen them yourself.


----------



## GISer3546 (Jan 30, 2013)

I think I became a little tempted by the promise of a $200 milling solution not realizing the saw would require a $500ish investment. Considering a regular consumer level chainsaw probably wouldn't be able to get the job done I'll probably save my cash for bs blades and having my milling done.


----------



## bower4311 (Jun 19, 2013)

GISer3546 said:


> I think I became a little tempted by the promise of a $200 milling solution not realizing the saw would require a $500ish investment. Considering a regular consumer level chainsaw probably wouldn't be able to get the job done I'll probably save my cash for bs blades and having my milling done.


Well, you're looking at about $1000+ for a new saw that would handle milling reasonably. But, that is new, which you wouldn't want. Most professional grade chainsaws can last a lifetime. Most milling saws? They might not last a couple years depending on use. They take A TON of abuse. Therefore, if you buy a used saw, you're going to be better off anyway. The P&C on most saws last a long time. If you're milling, you won't get much more use out of a new saw than a used one before the P&C blow out. Keep that in mind. You can find used saws for around half the new price. Only thing is, you'll have to learn a thing or two about fixing them. 
Say you bought a used saw, replace the fuel lines, do a carb rebuild, open up the muffler some depending on the saw. Then, run only synthetic, ethanol free gas in the saw and you'd be surprised how well it will run. You usually don't need much more than that on some of these saws destroyed by ethanol.


----------



## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

I love, love, love my CSM. You can save some money (In the long run) and really get some unique stock. That said, it is not cheap to start with AND it's hard back breaking work. Totally agree with what has been said. I started off with a 660 which cost me $1200 new. Works pretty good but slow on bigger logs. Ran across a deal on a used 660 and paid only $400 for it. I spent $80 on a rebuild and a new fuel line and it easily runs as good as the newer saw. I now run both those saws on a double ended bar and couldn't be happier. There is something cool about taking something from tree to finished furniture. If it weren't for that....... I think I'd rather buy the wood and save time and sweat. 
If you're going to do it I would say jump in with a big saw. (2 if you can afford it). Where I would save the money if I was going to do it again is in the mill itself. I bought an Alaskan MKIII. When it came I was a little disappointed in myself. I mean anyone with a little fabrication skill could easily make their own version a ton cheaper. Good luck.


----------



## bower4311 (Jun 19, 2013)

PSDkevin said:


> I love, love, love my CSM. You can save some money (In the long run) and really get some unique stock. That said, it is not cheap to start with AND it's hard back breaking work. Totally agree with what has been said. I started off with a 660 which cost me $1200 new. Works pretty good but slow on bigger logs. Ran across a deal on a used 660 and paid only $400 for it. I spent $80 on a rebuild and a new fuel line and it easily runs as good as the newer saw. I now run both those saws on a double ended bar and couldn't be happier. There is something cool about taking something from tree to finished furniture. If it weren't for that....... I think I'd rather buy the wood and save time and sweat.
> If you're going to do it I would say jump in with a big saw. (2 if you can afford it). Where I would save the money if I was going to do it again is in the mill itself. I bought an Alaskan MKIII. When it came I was a little disappointed in myself. I mean anyone with a little fabrication skill could easily make their own version a ton cheaper. Good luck.


They are very simple, and I suggest the Panther pro because it is very reasonably priced. I used a 441 for the ONE board I've milled so far. It did just fine, and sure it won't mill a 30" board, but I didn't even measure the size of the board, I just said, that's what I want, the saw will mill it, took my time and got a nice board out of the deal.


----------

