# Tablesaw 101 - Learn me sumfin'



## SkinsKaos (Jan 28, 2013)

OK, after asking a question pertaining to my TS and seeing the number of comments recommending that I upgrade my saw with a used saw of much higher quality I have to ask...

What am I looking for? Features? Specific Models? Any advice at all. Any resources to read up on saws that you have found exceptionally helpful.
For reference, what TS on the market (that doesn't require me to sign over my first born) would you recommend?

I want to do it right and I know from experience that if/when I find something I have to act fast, I'm not the only one looking for those gems.

My momma always told me I was learnable, let's see if she was right :laughing:


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

You want at least a cast iron top contractors saw... (belt drive motor hangs off the back of the saw) :smile:


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## SkinsKaos (Jan 28, 2013)

Something along these lines ~~~>
http://lancaster.craigslist.org/tls/3685414278.html


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I don't think that is cast iron and you don't want "motorized". There are a series of threads by Knotscott all about table saws. Consider those a must-read (on phone and don't have link handy). Where are you located? Folks will help find candidates. Also what is your budget and what kind of things would you like to make?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Knotscott has some excellent sticky threads in the Power Tools forum.

This one has a lot of detail on buying a table saw.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/...bonus-table-saw-classifications-thread-43322/

The one in your Craigs list looks to have an extruded aluminium main table top and the stamped steel table extensions. Note these are not flat, you can see the rust edge.

I prefer flat cast iron table top and extensions.

The extruded aluminium can make black marks in the wood. Also scratches much easier than cast iron.


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## SkinsKaos (Jan 28, 2013)

OK, I'm learnin'

I'll have a peek at the links you served up after I pick up my daughter.

Thanks.


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## dlb (Nov 13, 2012)

Golly! Go buy a used Powermatic or Unisaw for $500. You'll never regret spending the money.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

ok, where's the obligatory "buy your last saw first" comment that advises purchasing an "old arn" pre war 5 hp 3phase unisaw with a 52 " biesmeyer fence?

seriously, a CI 10" belt drive c-man similar to the one linked above can be the foundation for a really nice and absolutely fine woodworking capable TS. CI extension wings, usually of the webbed variety, are a nice additional feature, but the stamped steel wings can be quite functional. should a gray colored older ridgid appear, they and the 113 series c-man saws share a common emerson electric heritage and are usually equipped with better OEM fences than the c-man saws.


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## DannyT (Apr 26, 2011)

these are near you. i have heard people talk about rigid saws but don't know which one they were referring to but it is the one with the granite top 
the other is a craftsman.

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/tls/3656506567.html

http://frederick.craigslist.org/tls/3640236123.html


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## SkinsKaos (Jan 28, 2013)

DannyT said:


> these are near you. i have heard people talk about rigid saws but don't know which one they were referring to but it is the one with the granite top
> the other is a craftsman.
> 
> http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/tls/3656506567.html
> ...


Thanks! I didn't look that far back when I started looking.

I inquired about the CM


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I don't think this one is a great deal at $200, but it's a step in the right direction as opposed to a lighter direct drive saw. $125 would be my offer.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

If all you're planing to do is hobby stuff and not run a production shop then an older Craftsman will serve you well while not costing your first born. The fences on the Craftsman saws like you pictured often are not very good for being accurate so think about replacing that with a nice Delta T2-36 for around $150.00 at the first chance you get.

Another really nice saw that can be had for a song is the entire line of older Rigid 10" contractor saws. These came with nice fences and usually a lifting device on wheels that makes moving the saw around very easy.

Cast iron wings are nice, but the stamped steel ones will do the job and can always be replaced later either with home made wooden ones of a router table extension. That is something only you can decide.


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

Riving knife much easier to leave in all the time.


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## jascotx (Dec 2, 2010)

johnnie52 said:


> If all you're planing to do is hobby stuff and not run a production shop then an older Craftsman will serve you well while not costing your first born. The fences on the Craftsman saws like you pictured often are not very good for being accurate so think I replacing that with a nice Delta T2-36 for around $150.00 at the first chance you get.
> 
> Another really nice saw that can be had for a song is the entire line of older Rigid 10" contractor saws. These came with nice fences and usually a lifting device on wheels that makes moving the saw around very easy.
> 
> Cast iron wings are nice, but the stamped steel ones will do the job and can always be replaced later either with home made wooden ones of a router table extension. That is something only you can decide.


I actually have a Delta T2 fence which has never come out of the box...brand spankin new.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

You want one of these:

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/3684592131.html

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/3693972744.html

Greg


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

the baltimore uni for $350 is 3 phase. perhaps adds a level of complexity the OP doesn't really need at this point.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think before you ask what kind of saw you upgrade to, you need to tell us what kind of saw you already have and what work you need it for. I could do most anything I do on a little cheap ryobi table saw I use for a portable saw but I wouldn't attempt to build an entire kitchen on it. I wouldn't want to go back to using a contractor saw either but a homeowner tinkering with home projects the sears saw like post #2 would work fine. It's when you get into cutting hardwoods and a lot of it that you need a saw with more HP. A small saw you have to cut slow and too much of it you could burn up the motor.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

*I can cut 8/4 Maple all day long... and do*



Steve Neul said:


> I wouldn't want to go back to using a contractor saw either but a homeowner tinkering with home projects the sears saw like post #2 would work fine.




Here's my "homeowner" saws... LMAO :smile:


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## SkinsKaos (Jan 28, 2013)

Steve Neul said:


> I think before you ask what kind of saw you upgrade to, you need to tell us what kind of saw you already have and what work you need it for. I could do most anything I do on a little cheap ryobi table saw I use for a portable saw but I wouldn't attempt to build an entire kitchen on it. I wouldn't want to go back to using a contractor saw either but a homeowner tinkering with home projects the sears saw like post #2 would work fine. It's when you get into cutting hardwoods and a lot of it that you need a saw with more HP. A small saw you have to cut slow and too much of it you could burn up the motor.


I have a Skil 3310 from the big blue store. Right now I'm working small projects (cutting boards/trays/small boxes), things of that nature but I'd like to move into furniture ( nothing super big or super fancy, just nice enough. If you know what I mean)

This all started when I asked about cutting tabs off of the miter slots to make room for the runners on a couple sleds. There was numerous ideas kicked around about how to accomplish that but almost everyone in that thread seemed to be telling me that my saw needed to be upgraded.

And here we are...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*you can't have 2 many table saws...*



mdntrdr said:


> Here's my "homeowner" saws... LMAO :smile:


Here's mine, 3 saws, 2 extra tables and a router extension.....


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## SkinsKaos (Jan 28, 2013)

mdntrdr & woodnthings... you 2 are just showing off now! That'll be enough of that! 

When you are ready to get back to being helpful I'll be over here in the corning sulking over my toy of a saw and kickin' the cat!!!

(seriously guys, I dream of having a set up anywhere near those 2 beautys one of these years. I'll need to figure out how to use one saw properly first. Thanks for sharing)


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You said you wanted to "learn"*

might as well get edumacated about what can be done. The reason we did that wasn't to show off, but to show you how you can get a large table by bolting together rather inexpensive contractor or motorized saws. A large table is a sfety feature also since the plywood panels aren't balanced on the brink and ready to fall off the edge. Same goes for the outfeed end, it's about safety and accuracy.
The last saw I added I found on Craig's List for $186.00 and it's a 12" motorized. The others I bought new in the '80's for $500.00 a piece. The fences are Unifences, now extinct, but really handy. The router extension is a Bench Dog: http://www.benchdog.com/ It saves floor space by adding on to the saw and increases saw capacity to the right.

If you plan to do any work away from home, just keep your small saw as a portable, which is really what it is designed for, then look for a contractor saw by Rockwell, Dewalt, Craftsman, or a cast iron top saw from the '80's or '90's.
Some motorized saws, like the 12" Craftsman have induction motors, run on 220V only, and not universal AC/DC screamers like yours, but they are rare. 

So that's all I got for Ya now. :yes:


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

toolguy1000 said:


> the baltimore uni for $350 is 3 phase. perhaps adds a level of complexity the OP doesn't really need at this point.


Oops, I missed that. Sorry ....


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## snookfish (Jan 10, 2011)

I am going to try and be helpful. I bought a portable table saw and added the extension table. It was handy, but it didn't take long to realize the shortcomings with power, accuracy, and safety. I bought the rigid contractor saw 4510 I believe, and I find it a huge step up. I'm a hobby guy so aside from an entertainment center on my to do list, it meets my needs with no problem. I like the cast iron top. And for the time being, the stamped wings, once set, are secure enough for my needs. The 1 1/2 hp motor with the ability to go to a 220 voltage is nice. And the stock fence is as accurate as anything I need. I have mine tuned to be within 1/64" at 2' feet out and I don't see it getting worse as I go to the far right at 50". So if your into hobby work, I would buy the Rigid all over again or either the PC, grizzly, Craftsman, etc. along the same contractor style. I also like the lifetime warranty on the motor! If your a veteran, HD gives you 10% off, that's how I saved $50 on mine. I'm not a veteran, but my neighbor is and I handed him the cash so he could buy it. As a "thank you" I make him things all the time. 
I will say that I am willing to wait on Craigslist finds, but everytime I found a good deal I either didn't have the money at the time or someone bought it within an hour of me calling. 
Hope that helps?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

SkinsKaos said:


> I have a Skil 3310 from the big blue store. Right now I'm working small projects (cutting boards/trays/small boxes), things of that nature but I'd like to move into furniture ( nothing super big or super fancy, just nice enough. If you know what I mean)
> 
> This all started when I asked about cutting tabs off of the miter slots to make room for the runners on a couple sleds. There was numerous ideas kicked around about how to accomplish that but almost everyone in that thread seemed to be telling me that my saw needed to be upgraded.
> 
> And here we are...


The Skill 3310 is really intended as a portable saw like the Ryobi saw I have. I was really impressed with the saw for the price it was but I just needed something light to take out on the truck on a daily basis. I wouldn't want it in the shop though. I think if you would upgrade to a contractor saw it would do everything you need. I bought a sears 12" saw in 1972 and used it until I wore it out. It sometimes was a little short on horsepower but I often was ripping hundreds of board feet of oak at a time for business purposes. The saw would just get hot from time to time and the overload protection would cut the saw off. It was just too much for it. I only upgraded from that saw because the motor needed an overhaul and I couldn't get a shop to work on it and I didn't have time to track someone that would.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

snookfish said:


> I am going to try and be helpful. I bought a portable table saw and added the extension table. It was handy, but it didn't take long to realize the shortcomings with power, accuracy, and safety. I bought the rigid contractor saw 4510 I believe, and I find it a huge step up. ...I like the cast iron top. ...The 1 1/2 hp motor with the ability to go to a 220 voltage is nice. ....


Sounds like you've got the R4512, which is in the class of full size cast iron saws with belt drive induction motor, and is indeed a signifcant step up from a portable IMHO.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

SkinsKaos said:


> OK, after asking a question pertaining to my TS and seeing the number of comments recommending that I upgrade my saw with a used saw of much higher quality I have to :laughing:



Get rid of that nickel plated sissy saw and buy yourself a Hammer. 
They are horribly cheap right now.
Ain't nuthin finer than a long slider.

I'd take seriously a second hand Felder too. Preferably one with the X-Roll sliding table


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*whoa*



Cliff said:


> Get rid of that nickel plated sissy saw and buy yourself a Hammer.
> They are horribly cheap right now.
> Ain't nuthin finer than a long slider.
> 
> I'd take seriously a second hand Felder too. Preferably one with the X-Roll sliding table


That would be like goin' from a 10 speed bike to a Formula 1 racer. ... and about the same differential in cost relatively speaking. Those sliders would take up 1/2 a garage for a footprint and the other half to make it useful. Probably too much for the OP.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Cliff said:


> Get rid of that nickel plated sissy saw and buy yourself a Hammer.
> They are horribly cheap right now.
> Ain't nuthin finer than a long slider.
> 
> I'd take seriously a second hand Felder too. Preferably one with the X-Roll sliding table


and there it is! not quite the obligatory "buy a saw that's way more than an expert needs, even though you're a newbie" post, but close enough.


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Here's mine, 3 saws, 2 extra tables and a router extension.....





mdntrdr said:


> Here's my "homeowner" saws... LMAO :smile:



As you can see, 113.****** series Craftsman belt drive saws are really about the best bang/buck on the market. Some guys have a few :laughing:. I have one in a more conventional layout (just one saw) with a home made router extension. i was able to get a newer one that the $200 model that you posted a link to in near new condition for $150 (in a region that is pretty lean on used woodworking equipment). That said, I think $100-$125 would be a fair offer for that saw. Check and see if it is still available. He has had it listed for almost a month, so he has probably realized that he is asking a bit too much money :thumbsup:.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> That would be like goin' from a 10 speed bike to a Formula 1 racer.


Can't see how that's a problem. I had a crapsman contractor saw before I got my slider. 




> .. and about the same differential in cost relatively speaking.


proof that you really do get what you pay for



> Those sliders would take up 1/2 a garage for a footprint


A myth that needs some serious dispelling. I have a very crowded shop area in a garage. My slider has the longest table I could get and it's footprint is dramatically less than what people with no experience on them might imagine.




> Probably too much for the OP.


I can't even begin to guess why you would say such a thing. 
It's a saw with substantial safety and operational advantages that make nearly every thing you do so much more pleasurable, safer, and lets you do things one might have never imagined possible on a table saw. 


Plus you can get a shaper built in.
Plus you can mount the router table off the back of the saw and use the slider for that as well. 
Plus it's got a 12" blade with makes for Deeper cuts and an unstoppable motor. I routinely rip 3" oak, elm, and maple
Plus you can get scoring which eliminates chip out in problematic wood like oak ply.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Cliff said:


> My slider has the longest table I could get and it's footprint is dramatically less than what people with no experience on them might imagine.


No Pics=Dint Happen... :smile:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I stand corrected then*

Your budget must have been Formula 1 rather than Crapsman after looking at these: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=felder+table+saw

New:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laguna-Tool...263?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aedc59f87

A vertical panel saw will be less expensive, but you'll still need 20 ft of run to break down 4X8 sheets.

I don't think the OP's budget will allow for either..... just guessin', since none of the saws he's looked at are over $500.00


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## jascotx (Dec 2, 2010)

Not sure I would run out to get a Hammer, but the OP did ask for help in understanding what makes a saw good. Obviously, there are a lot of nice features on these saws. Maybe the point is to understand what you get for the money, then make a personal decision based on what you can afford. Maybe even run across some features you can adapt to lesser saws.


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## SkinsKaos (Jan 28, 2013)

While the sliders are more than my wallet (and shop) can handle, they are nice. And a nice dream to have. 

For those guessing my budget is on the low side, DING-DING-DING!
I'm looking for that diamond in the rough. As selfish as it may seem , I want something for nothing_. _A good saw for next to nothing would define my position at the moment. That may change if/when I get back to work but for the time being, it is what it is.

On topic, I am really learning a lot about saws and about shopping for equipment overall.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> New:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laguna-Tool...263?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aedc59f87


I wouldn't buy anything from Laguna
Google around about them a little and you'll see. 
I came close to buying their TSS but the company ended up convincing me that buying from them would be a potential serious mistake. Felder OTOH convinced me opposite of that. 



> A vertical panel saw will be less expensive, but you'll still need 20 ft of run to break down 4X8 sheets.


 I don’t have 20 feet of run. Where you getting’ this info,’ the internet? The internet is shot through with the misinformation and mythology generated by people who don’t own a slider. Ya gotta talk to people who own them. The FOG is one such place where everybody is an owner of a piece of Felder machinery - or plans or wants to be. FOG = Felder owner’s group on Yahoo: http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/felder-woodworking/
There’s one on Yahoo for Minimax too.

It is also a misnomer to label them as “panel saw” because that presupposes one of the myths which is that they don’t excel at small close work. They are in fact vastly superior to a conventional TS for small close precision work. One of the many many things that makes them so is the ability to do precise jigging, I build a jig or fixture, mount it to the slider using the T slot, then I can put my complex shaped small piece of work in the fixture (and with my hands nowhere near the blade) I can push the slider through the cut and then retrieve my work piece and do another obtaining marvelous results and precision. 



> I don't think the OP's budget will allow for either..... just guessin', since none of the saws he's looked at are over $500.00


 Maybe, he didn’t say. 

BTW I rather like your three saw set up. That must be nice for progressive work where you are taking lots of pieces through stages.
Have you considered putting an incra system on one of those saw tops?


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

SkinsKaos said:


> A good saw for next to nothing would define my position at the moment. That may change if/when I get back to work but for the time being, it is what it is.


Then I recommend that you skip the whole idea of buying new and go to the used marketplace and ESPECIALLY to auctions where older school equipment is being offered up. Be willing to travel to the US interior too, where such auctions go almost unattended.

Also be willing to consider a phase converter and look at three phase machinery because most folks won't touch it out of baseless fear.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*side discussion here*

I said:
 A *vertical* panel saw will be less expensive, but you'll still need 20 ft of run to break down 4X8 sheets.
You said: 
*I don’t have 20 feet of run*. Where you getting’ this info,’ the internet? The internet is shot through with the misinformation and mythology generated by people who don’t own a* slider*.
----------------------------------------------------------------
I'm NOT talking about a *slider*, but a vertical panel saw like they have at Home Depot, NOT like a Striebig or Holz-Her, which run $10,000 and up.

At the Home Depot you have to push a 4 X 8ft long sheet through the blade and then retrieve it at the other end. That will require you stand at either end taking up about of 4 ft of room and a 16 ft run for the work, hence 20 ft of run. That's darn near a car length in the garage, not very practical, BUT still the same about of run needed to rip a 4 x 8 ft sheet on a table saw.

I have a *sliding vertical panel saw* I designed and made myself, so NO I'm not getting this info off the internet, and I resent the accusation. Before you flame someone here read the posts carefully. *Bold print for emphasis.
*


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Cliff said:


> Also be willing to consider a phase converter and look at three phase machinery because most folks won't touch it out of baseless fear.


Cliff, I don't think it's baseless fear as much as lack of knowledge on overcoming the power requirements of the machine vs. what's available in the hobbyist shop. If you were to do a thread on options for using three phase machinery in a home garage or basement shop I think it would be very much appreciated by many of us. There is scattered information on the internet but without a bit of guidance and ability to ask questions it is difficult to feel confident enough to invest in a phase converter, VFD or whatever else is recommended. So please start a thread on three phase for the single phase shop. Looking forward to it! :thumbsup:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

SkinsKaos said:


> ...For those guessing my budget is on the low side, DING-DING-DING! I'm looking for that diamond in the rough. As selfish as it may seem , I want something for nothing_. _A good saw for next to nothing would define my position at the moment. ....


There are several reasonable saws that could be worth an offer in your area....offer what you can afford and see what comes of it.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/3671556472.html
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/3671702093.html
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/3654294714.html
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/3687269251.html
http://smd.craigslist.org/tls/3687480799.html
http://annapolis.craigslist.org/tls/3689501049.html
http://winchester.craigslist.org/tls/3642945698.html


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

Cliff said:


> Get rid of that nickel plated sissy saw and buy yourself a Hammer.
> They are horribly cheap right now.
> Ain't nuthin finer than a long slider.
> 
> I'd take seriously a second hand Felder too. Preferably one with the X-Roll sliding table


I just recently bought a Hammer K3 model with a 48 slider x 48 table set up. I'm really impressed with the saw so far. Very solid, a powerful 4HP motor and weighs in at 700#. It's a beast. With the exchange rate what it is, you can buy the saw with essentially a $2600 discount. I got mine for about $4K delivered vs @ $3K for a Powermatic with a smaller motor and without the slider.


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> as much as lack of knowledge


Maybe. But it's nothing that one can't learn. For years I was afraid of electricity and preferred gas welding to electric TIG MIG or Stick. 
The things I didn't know were holding me back. I was frightened about the prospect of having to rewire a motor for 220. I was terrified of screwing up wiring up a sub panel. But learn these things I did - eventually.



> it is difficult to feel confident enough to invest in a phase converter, VFD or whatever else is recommended. So please start a thread on three phase for the single phase shop. Looking forward to it!


IT is too small a subject to wast a whole thread. 
Seriously too small and insignificant
For a price of as little as $169 up to $279 for a 3 HP motor you can get a VFD and run a three phase motor, and installing it is about as easy as plugging in a toaster.
here:




I suppose a thread might be supported by a discussion of how to source and rebuild a huge old three phase electric motor to use as a phase converter but really that too is so simple as to be beneath much worry. 
Get a honkin big 3-phase motor at a junkyard for scrap metal prices ("honkin big" being the technical term), open it up and replace the bearings. Clean it inspect it use a hack saw blade ( hand held) to re-shape the commutator if it is worn down, connect it to a 1-HP single phase electric motor VIA pulleys, Use a Switch to wire 230 lines to two ( T1 & T2) of the 3-phase motor lines also run lines from these two PLUS the other line from that motor to power your three phase shop machinery.
Use the single phase motor to get your three phase motor up and running, Disconnect the single phase 1-HP motor - and quick like a bunny - before the three phase motor slows down switch the power on to that motor and VIOLA you have three phase power.
It is important to get the three phase motor up to it's rated running speed so the phases are timed correctly. 

You can improve the thing and even eliminate the starter motor with 400 volt run capacitors and a magnetic motor switch and such, but that's another to topic.

Cost to run this rig is a little less than an electric oven


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> I said:
> A *vertical* panel saw will be less expensive, but you'll still need 20 ft of run to break down 4X8 sheets.


My apologies. I read too hastily I suppose and just imposed my then current train of thought that the discussion was about conventional and sliding saws and the injection of a vertical saw got past me. 


I wasn't intending to flame you. Seriously I was not. I was suspicious that what you were saying was the exact internet spread myths that had me leery of sliders before I took the plunge. I can't tell you how many times in how many forums and blogs I read all about how sliders were too big for the hobby shop or only good for panel work yadda yadda yadda. 

I can't imagine why a vertical panel saw should have to demand 20 linear feet to break down a 4 x 8 sheet of ply. I get the part about pulling the off cut out of the end. I think that's just the way some designer or engineer approached it. Probably that design was not done with an economy of space in mind. I'd not build a panel saw that way. I'd want to be able to pull the work out straight off the saw as opposed to having to slide it off the ends.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*apology accepted*

Here's my reason for stating you need 20 ft of run. The sheet is 8 ft long, you need to stand at the end to push it, requiring 2 ft, then 8 ft to push it beyond the blade and 2 ft more to remove it comfortably. That's 2 + 8 + 8 + 2 + 20 ft (more or less) The rip process starts at 2:45 on this Vertical Panel Saw video, for the record he is not ripping a full 8 ft sheet.:





A Sliding Carriage Vertical Panel Saw, like mine which only requires about 10 ft of run for an 8 ft rip:


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Of the ones listed above, I would go with this one. A Delta contractor saw, with a Unifence. I like the Biesemeyer style better, but the Unifence is a great fence also.
http://annapolis.craigslist.org/tls/3689501049.html


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I agree*

The fence alone is worth $250 as they are extinct nowdays. Unifences are cool and versatile, and can be used in many positions. :thumbsup:


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> A Sliding Carriage Vertical Panel Saw, like mine which only requires about 10 ft of run for an 8 ft rip:


I like your's better than the commercial unit.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Cliff said:


> IT is too small a subject to wast a whole thread...
> 
> ...I suppose a thread might be supported by a discussion of how to source and rebuild a huge old three phase electric motor to use as a phase converter...


Exactly. Thanks for posting the info. I had only recently heard about VFDs but hadn't seen these. My suggestion was so we don't hijack the OP's thread. However...

SkinsKaos, you asked for learnin'! :laughing:


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> My suggestion was so we don't hijack the OP's thread. However...


Well if he's going to consider my advice and look warmly on 3-phase machines then it's not much of a hijack. Rather it's more of dispelling of preconceptions about insoluble complexity.

Until we know something about things like this they can seem so difficult.


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