# Cross Cutting full 4x8 plywood sheets.



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Normally I buy plywood already cut to a manageable size from HD or Lowes and then I cut what I need with my table saw. On occasion I’ve had to cut a door or window opening and had to resort to my circular saw and straight edge as a guide. I’m tired of doing that and want to start using my table saw. I do rip full sheets of plywood without any problem, but I can’t figure out how to crosscut a 4 ft wide piece of plywood.
I have a 4 day weekend and I’ve decided to rearrange my shop and build a new base for my table saw. Is there something I can do in the design of my TS base to help with this problem? I’m hoping to set up the TS in front of a 8’ rollup door with a receiving table that folds up to the outside of the door when opened. I’m planning on buying the Vega PRO 40 Table Saw Fence System, because I only have 8’ and I want to be able to walk around it. I’m worried that the Vega PRO 40 might not be wide enough. I really don’t make too many cuts like this, maybe once a year if that.
So, can I make a 4’ cross cut in a piece of plywood on a table saw without a fence?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Nice challenge, but I think you can*

Measure the distance from the right edge of the table to the blade. Let's say it's 30". Get one of those sliding bar clamps that will open to 48 inches and set the clamp so the dimesion from the edge of the clamp is 18". Turn the piece over and using the clamp as the right hand "fence" holding pressure towards the blade. A straight edge would work as well clamped or screwed at the 18" mark to get a 48" piece. It's as much work as using the same set up and a circular saw, but you asked.....:laughing: bill


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Ok then, thanks Bill. I guess there’s no getting around it. Using a circular saw isn’t so bad if I got a lot to do, because I can set up the saw horses with a stack of plywood and just go for it. It’s the one cut that gets me with all setting up for only one cut. I guess I’m getting lazy. :laughing:


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## twoartistic (Apr 29, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Measure the distance from the right edge of the table to the blade. Let's say it's 30". Get one of those sliding bar clamps that will open to 48 inches and set the clamp so the dimesion from the edge of the clamp is 18". Turn the piece over and using the clamp as the right hand "fence" holding pressure towards the blade. A straight edge would work as well clamped or screwed at the 18" mark to get a 48" piece. It's as much work as using the same set up and a circular saw, but you asked.....:laughing: bill


That's thinkin' outside the "fence" woodnthings. It would work if the blade is parallel to the edge of the table, as it should be. That's one I have never used. 

I agree with you a skill saw and a straight edge are the way to go. Years ago, I subcontracted with a national company that needed someone to fix commercial fixtures and displays all over the country. I would take what I could put in a rolling toolbox, keeping it under 80lbs, and get on a plane to where ever. You can imagine that you have to be very selective to keep the weight under that 80lbs, so a few tools would end up in my suitcase as well. Some of the jobs they sent me on were quite a challenge, like the time I got on the job site in a small town and there was a stack of black melamine, a roll of edge banding, and a drawing. I had to build the fixtures with just the few tools I had with me. The town was too small to have a tool rental place, and with just a few fixtures it was not worth a road trip to a large enough town to both rent and return the tools. To throw an extra challenge into the equation the fixtures had a curved side profile. I had a skill saw, a dozuki, a coping saw, and a small router for cutting (wish I had packed the jigsaw for that trip). I found a piece of scrap to make a template for the curve and used a straight edge for the rest of the cuts. I got the fixtures done, signed off, and got back on a plane that same day. My point is you can do allot with simple tools. 

On the job site, or in my small home shop I almost always use a straight edge and skill saw for cuts on large panels. It's just easier than trying to move things around or set up the table saw. I also use a trick for dealing with the panel by myself. I set a sacrificial OSB sheet on my work bench or sawhorses, and it supports the fall off cut, so I don't get any breakage at the end of the cut.


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

Following advice from this forum, I made up a straight edge from alloy angle fixed to 1/4" ply. This simple device costing only a dollar or two has transformed my cutting with the circular saw.

Of course you could push the boat out and get the Rigid system, a carpenter friend uses one to cut large sheets every day.

johnep


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Well just by chance, I had to cut a piece of plywood yesterday using the old way and it was actually too easy using the circular saw and is definitely easier than trying to move something so big around. While I was cutting the plywood I remembered a time many years ago when I left my tools locked up at a job site and wanted to cut a piece of plywood at home. With the help of a friend we tried free hand cutting on my table saw with one person on each side and eyeballing the line. It was a disaster. We smoked that blade and destroyed the plywood. Had I remembered that experience earlier, I would not have even asked the question. :thumbdown::icon_redface:
The whole question actually started with my planning a new home shop in my existing garage. I currently have everything on wheels pushed into a corner of my garage. I tend to put ideas off because of the hassle to pull everything out just to get at something all the way in the back. It would be nice that when I got an idea for something, I could just grab some wood and start cutting. So I was trying to figure out how exactly much room I needed in setting up my TS while utilizing every inch of space while trying to think of every possible thing I might do. :confused1:
I spent the whole day moving things around without much luck. My house plan is completely upside down, from the moment you walk in the door, everything seems like it should be on the other side. :wacko: 
If I had a larger lot I would build a whole new separate shop. :hammer:
Anyway, the whole day was very discouraging and the only good, was that I filled up my garbage can with a bunch of crap and now I’m debating on getting a large dumpster or learning how to sell stuff on eBay. Maybe both! :laughing:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Sleeper said:


> So, can I make a 4’ cross cut in a piece of plywood on a table saw without a fence?



You could get real lucky and do it, but my answer to that question is *NO*. Any cut on a TS should have a guide, being a fence, miter gauge, or a sled. You should never freecut on a TS. 

You didn't say what kind of saw you have, how big the table is, or what type and length the fence is. Don't underestimate the power of a TS. I had a helper ripping a 4x8 of 3/4" plywood. The sheet got caught in the blade and it kicked the *whole sheet* back clean off the table into his stomach, and took him off his feet backwards. I had a pallet of plywood about 10' behind the saw on the floor. He landed on that with the plywood. The saw was a 3HP Unisaw. He was about 6' tall and about 190 lbs. Saws just don't stop that easily.

In the beginning my table saw was a sheet of 3/4" plywood sitting on sawhorses, with a circular saw mounted underneath. My fence was just a strip of plywood with a mica laminated edge that I would clamp to the plywood. It worked for me, but I wouldn't recommend that archaic setup to anyone.

First and foremost plan your machining and cutting with safety in mind, and accuracy would be a plus. A circular saw and a straightedge would be a more predictable procedure.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Free online video for saw and router guides*

To make an accurate guide for cutting panels here is a good video showing how:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodvision/?lid=1527696816&tid=1357340884
Other videos are good as well, and free!:yes: bill


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> You could get real lucky and do it, but my answer to that question is *NO*. Any cut on a TS should have a guide, being a fence, miter gauge, or a sled. You should never freecut on a TS.


I agree, I think I’m going to forget about the table saw and look for ideas to build my own panel saw. :yes:



woodnthings said:


> To make an accurate guide for cutting panels here is a good video showing how:
> http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodvision/?lid=1527696816&tid=1357340884
> Other videos are good as well, and free!:yes: bill


Thanks Bill. That way too cool! I’ve subscribed to WOOD Magazine for many years and I did not know about this web site. :thumbsup:


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Just get yourself a Festool or Makita plunge saw and guide. Solves all your problems except where the money to buy them will come from.


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## Jordy3738 (Jan 12, 2009)

2 x 4 combined with a couple of Jorgensen clamps and a circular saw has always worked fine for cutting straight lines for me. Especially if I was only making one cut per year.


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## Rich Aldrich (Apr 26, 2008)

Another tip is to put a 1 1/2" or 2" thick sheet of styrofoam on the floor (or on another sheet of plywood on saw horses) and use the styrofoam as a sacrifical sheet. You dont have to worry about cutting what ever is under the plywood you are cutting

I had issues with breaking down sheets of plywood until this winter. I finally saved enough stash to buy a 100" Smart Saw Guide system through Hartville Tool. I really like this system. There is an anti chip edge along the guide and on the base that mounts on the saw. There is no chipping of the outer veneer layer that we try so hard to protect.

I know a lot of people dont like these systems, but after using it to break down 5 sheets of oak one afternoon this winter, I am hooked. There are people who say they would replace their tablesaw with this set up. I do not agree. There is no way I would give up my table saw, unless it was for a better bigger badder tablesaw.

.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

This will make your life easy, breaking down sheet goods.

I put a picture in Leo:yes:


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

A pox on you....You trying to give me the green disease, are you? :laughing: It is a fantastic saw and does the job easily and gives a nice clean splinter free edge as advertised. I'll get one soon. Hope the disease doesn't take over me like it did you Warner.......:help:


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Leo, it feels sooo good once you just let go.

You got 30 days if you dont like it to take it back for a refund.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Now that I know what you’re talking about, I like it. :thumbsup: It’s a lot less expensive than a panel saw and easier to store. Is the saw attached to the guide?
There are a lot of times that the saw at Lowes or Home Depot is either broke down or there’s nobody qualified to run the saw, but with this, I will not have to depend on those guys anymore. :laughing:

Update: 
I just watched the video at festoolusa.com and I’m impressed.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Check out the PRICE?*
















Enhanced Image


*Festool Plunge Cut Saw w/ Rail Model TS 75 EQ*


#561188

Incorporates an 8-1/4" blade (30mm arbor) with a 13 Amp, 120V motor that can be adjusted from 1,350-3,550 RPM. _Festool products can only be sold in the *50 states*_ 

Price: $625.00

I don't think I would spend $625 plus tax on a saw I only needed once a year, to cut 1 or 2 4x8 sheets. That's strictly a personal choice however. Other versions by Makita and Dewalt may be cheaper. The cheapest is the homebuilt guide in the Wood Magazine Video posted above. And the results will be the same using a high quality blade in your circular saw.:smile: bill


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## mwhafner (Jan 16, 2009)

> I don't think I would spend $625 plus tax on a saw


The TS75 is the larger model. The TS55 is the smaller version, and more comparable to the DeWalt and Makita. All three are within a few dollars of each other.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

mwhafner said:


> The TS55 is the smaller version, and more comparable to the DeWalt and Makita. All three are within a few dollars of each other.


Which is why you should get the Festool.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> I don't think I would spend $625 plus tax on a saw I only needed once a year, to cut 1 or 2 4x8 sheets. bill


You’re right Bill, the price is prohibitive especially for only a once in a while and I DO NOT need any more tools. I couldn’t see any discounts on the Festool.:laughing:
The thing that appeals to me about a track over a homemade guide is that you can’t drift away from the guide. I’ve used guides before and I think I still have one but don’t use it enough to remember where I stashed it to get it out of the way. If I find it, I’ll have to paint it a bright orange or something.  Sometimes the saw will drift away from the guide when I’m stretched out over the sheet of plywood trying to get through the middle section. It would be great if there were a slot or something to prevent that. Once I tried using the rip guide that came with the saw and turned it around backwards to lock the saw over the guide, but it kept jamming up. 
I also thought about making something from the wheels off a track door and I still have the parts I bought, but just haven’t got around to it. My saw has 2 guide positions, one in the back and one in the front. I never did figure out why, but it’s going to be handy if I do make something out of the track wheels.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Leo G said:


> Which is why you should get the Festool.


 
Very good grasshopper!!


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Sleeper: get a pc of 3/8 or 1/2 ply about 8" wide x 8' long; get a pc of hardwood maybe 3"wide,straight, which you can rip on TS, 8' long; measure from blade to outside edge of your circular saw, snap a chalk line about an inch wider from the edge, attack the strait edge to that line, next take ur saw and using that strait edge rip the plywood. You now have a strait eged that perfectly fits that saw, place the cut edge on any line u want to cut, clamp it and rip the sheet, dead on virtually chip free every time.
Use a Freud Diablo 60 0r 80 tooth blade for real perfection.:yes:


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## niki (Jul 16, 2007)

Hi JohnnyB

Normally, I don't have to cut 8'x4' sheets (they cut it for me to my cut list when I order....on a $70,000 beam saw) but, for the very few times that I have to cut long pieces.....

First, make yourself a "Circular saw off-set plate" that will tell you where the blade will cut EXACTLY.








































As for straight edge, it can be an 8' long board but I found in the building materials shop an aluminum straight edge that costs here (Poland) around $20 and I was surprised from the straightness (I even make a glue lines with it)...the rest is on the pics...

Pics on the next post below.....


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## niki (Jul 16, 2007)

With the "Knives" method, you can cut very accurate dimensions....


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## niki (Jul 16, 2007)




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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

*Great tutorial*



niki said:


> Hi JohnnyB
> 
> Normally, I don't have to cut 8'x4' sheets (they cut it for me to my cut list when I order....on a $70,000 beam saw) but, for the very few times that I have to cut long pieces.....
> 
> Pics on the next post below.....


Wow Niki! 
That is a great pictorial and I’m speechless. You have a lot of great ideals here like the antiskid tape and the use of two modified Workmates among others. Great tutorial. Thanks :thumbsup:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Sleeper check this out!*

Here's a thread I just posted. It may be useful to you. :yes: bill
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/4-x-8-panel-cross-cuts-10476/#post82269


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