# Inset Doors



## Aragorn (Jun 18, 2009)

Hi, a relative woodworking newbie here.

After some success with earlier cabinets and overlay doors I thought I’d try something more challenging.

The inset doors are made and are dead-on square. And I made them just 1/16 larger all around than the opening -- for trimming.
My problem is that when I was gluing and clamping the carcass I measured the diagonals, and they were exactly equal so I left it at that. I foolishly neglected to check the corners with a framing square; so now I have a 'slight' trapezoid. (About a 1/16 strong across 22 inches - enough so that the gaps will look unacceptable)

I don’t want to have to build another carcass because it’s made of cherry – expensive. Can I cut a long slender wedge and glue that along one side to ‘straighten’ out the trapezoid? What might be the best way to fix this that will hopefully be the most aesthetically pleasing?


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## toolman Steve (Jun 11, 2009)

First is the out side of the cabinet also out of square . if so remove the back and square the cabinet. 
If the cabinet is not out of square or if you can't remove the back.You may have to match the doors to the cabinet .


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## ecw (Jun 15, 2009)

Aragorn, can you post a pic or two for clarification & or so i can learn with you? what details, if any(profiles) are on the door & or frame; fluted, raised, stepped, flush? are you saying that you made "inset" doors 1/16" larger than the openings? forgive my ignorance but when you say "carcass" are speaking of the face frame? eric


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Aragorn said:


> Hi, a relative woodworking newbie here.
> 
> After some success with earlier cabinets and overlay doors I thought I’d try something more challenging.
> 
> ...



If the opening measured equal corner to corner, it was a square opening. It could have gotten out of square during clamping, or while the glue was drying, and what you have now is a cabinet that is slightly "racked". 

If it was assembled without the back, and the back is a snug fit, you may be able to get it square when the back goes in.


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## Bob Wingard (Jul 23, 2007)

I think he's saying that one carcase member is a different length than it's opposing part. This would cause corner-corner measurements to be dead on, but with a slight taper, that would be evenly distributed to both sides. 

I suppose you could split the difference .. apply a very thin tapered shim to each opposing member of the carcase .. then cut the inset doors at a very slight angle to obtain proper fit. With any luck, the error should be all but impossible to see with the naked eye.

A picture or two would be very helpful, and some dimensions. Your 1/16" error could be huge or minor, depending on the scope of the problem. You state that it is across a 22" span .. what is the other dimension ??

You also might be able to trim the doors a bit, and add cockbeading to the opening, building it out at a slight taper, making the repair even less visible .. assuming face frame construction. If it's frameless, I think you are screwed.


<<<__ Bøb __>>>


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

I don't understand what the problem is. If you made the doors oversize by a sixteenth, just plane them to fit into the opening.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

clampman said:


> I don't understand what the problem is. If you made the doors oversize by a sixteenth, just plane them to fit into the opening.


:yes:


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## ecw (Jun 15, 2009)

so the carcass is the cabinet box ?
eric


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## Aragorn (Jun 18, 2009)

Everything was all glued up including the back. Yes, it is just in the cabinet front that there is a slight trapezoid.
I was wondering if I could fix the trapezoidal shape of the door opening rather than alter the doors. I finally said to hell with it and used a router and a straight edge to create a slight taper along the top rail of both doors. It is probably unnoticeable to anyone else --- grr.
thanks


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Bob Wingard said:


> I think he's saying that one carcase member is a different length than it's opposing part. This would cause corner-corner measurements to be dead on, but with a slight taper, that would be evenly distributed to both sides.
> 
> <<<__ Bøb __>>>




I'm trying to visualize that. Could you explain it better? I'm just a simple guy.


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

aragorn,

If you ever run across a situation like that in the future, try to plane tapers on the stiles rather than the rails. The eye will never pick up tapered stiles the way it will tapered rails.

Cheers,
Jim


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

Is this a free standing cabinet or is it mounted to the wall? I mean...what size reveal are you shooting for...If it is A FREE STANDING PIECE...


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