# signing your work



## adienner (Jul 22, 2007)

I always sign every piece i do. I use a regular ink pen and then just put finish over top of it. I think its time for me to sign my work in a better way. I was wondering what you guys do, ink, woodburn, carve? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated


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## weirdbeard (Mar 31, 2008)

I have never sighed a piece of my work. I always forget.. I have always wanted to get one of those stamps made that enable you to burn your signature into the wood. I should get one of those..


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## adienner (Jul 22, 2007)

I have one of those stamps, and i hate it. The piece that you are stamping has to be dead flat for it to work, and every good turner knows that the bottom of bowls should be slightly concave. I also had trouble with parts of the signature getting hotter then the rest, therefore getting darker than the rest


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## skewed (Jan 19, 2008)

Woodburn. A little practice and it doesn't look too bad.:laughing:


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## adienner (Jul 22, 2007)

i've practiced and just cant seem to get the hang of it. maybe i should try it again


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Paint marker pen. http://www.dickblick.com/zz221/21/


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

I use a dremel engraver or woodburner. Mostly the Dremel. To use either you need to sand the area you are working on. It makes it much easier to write. Either one requires practice to get it right.


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## Lilty (Dec 20, 2006)

I agree with John, Dremel or woodburner.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I couldn't justify the cost of a branding iron, so I bought a rubber stamp. It looks very much like the oval imprints from a branding iron. The stamp needs to be applied before the sealer coat. I liked it well enough that I bought one for a friend who likes it too....~ $10 shipped.

I also like to glue in a penny from the year the piece was made to the bottom.


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## firefighteremt153 (Jan 25, 2008)

My wife got me a custom burner type stamp for x-mas and so far I'm not really impressed with it. Might have to try the rubber stamp in the future.


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## Big E (Apr 3, 2008)

I have the buner and it works great for me. Also do woodburning for smaller thing.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

For several years I had a less expensive good quality wood burner and always had trouble writing with it. Then I bought the Dremel and used it. I occasionally have trouble with summer/winter grain transitions but if I sand well and use a light touch it works. 
This last year I bought an Optima woodburner and I seem to be able to write with it much easier. I don't know if my skills have improved or if the burner is better. Probably both.


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## Joe C (Nov 8, 2007)

I bought a couple of labels from Meisels. They will print up a label that you can place on the bottom or back of your work. They have an adhesive on them. You can write a date on them, then place a clear finish on them.


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## jdixon (Nov 21, 2007)

knotscott said:


> also like to glue in a penny from the year the piece was made to the bottom.


 
Very Cool Idea! :thumbsup:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

jdixon said:


> Very Cool Idea! :thumbsup:


Yeah...but it's best not to finish any pieces until around March or you won't find any new pennies for the current year! :laughing:


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## Ken Johnson (Nov 8, 2007)

knotscott,

Where did you buy this stamp???


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Ken Johnson said:


> knotscott,
> 
> Where did you buy this stamp???


Hi Ken - It was someone on Ebay...sorry I cant' recall the name, but if you search "rubber stamps" you'll get lots of hits.


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## allenn (Apr 13, 2008)

The turners I know suggest a litte teeny tiny thin felt tip, like a Sharpie paint pen. Let it dry thoroughly before finishing, or it runs and bleeds and looks terrible. and do it while the piece is still on the lathe, so if it looks awful, you do not have to remount the piece before you cut it out and re-do. they also suggest signing between two little grooves, so the signature stands out, detracting attention from any errors.

allen norris


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

*signing your pieces*

I use an old cheapie woodburner from Sears that I have had for over 30 years. I use the pointy tip which I have sharpened up a bit. Most of my pieces I cut a couple of grooves in the bottom about 1/2" apart. I burn my name, date, and type of wood and stay between the two grooves as a guide. You can buy one of the expensive burners, but with some practice, you can do a good job with the cheapie. I let it get good and hot for 5-6 minutes and wear a glove because it gets a little hot on the fingers otherwise. Lay the tip in at a slight angle and draw it towards you with light pressure for each stroke of the letter. If you drag it like this, it won't have a tendacy to get stuck in the open grain and leave a heavy burn mark. 
Mike Hawkins:thumbsup:


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## Domer (Mar 23, 2008)

*Signing Furinture*

I have thought of having a small plack engraved with date and name. 

Any thoughts anyone.


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## daryl in nanoose (Feb 18, 2007)

I just bought a stamp you heat with a hot plate or torch and quite happy with it. I have stamped 2 projects with no problems.The pic shows the 3 first attemps on a scap, since then no problem. I think the electric ones would be better but kinda pricey


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## Nancy Laird (May 7, 2007)

LOML has an electric branding iron for flatwork - and we have developed a signature logo for use with the laser on our turnings. On flat lasered work, we laser our logo on the back or bottom.

We make self-stick veneer logos for several furniture manufacturers on our laser---they are selling like hotcakes.


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## LeftCoaster (Apr 26, 2008)

I have found the "secret" to signing with a burner tool is to use a small tip and then get one of those magnifying lenses on an extension arm to watch your "writing". With it nice and blown up it's possible to be neat and legible.


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## Graphiti (Mar 29, 2008)

Ok, I'm sure this will get a laugh or three. I have three different company names/logos I put on the pool cues I make. The high end ones I engrave with a CNC or laser and my truly custom, one off stuff I engrave and initial with a sharpie. But the ones I sell under the Graphiti name brand I put "Temporary Tattoos" on them, then put the finish over the Tattoo. I know, It sounds nuts but it allowed me to produce a very sharp and Professional looking logo that only takes a few seconds to apply. Because the finish soaks into the Tattoo it's as tough as the finish. The only down side is to make them cost effective you have to order ALOT of them. When I got them I ordered 10,000 of them, I think I paid 2 1/2 cents per tattoo when I got them, It's been a few years. As I remember they cost about $300 after setup cost and shipping.


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## Shawnlake (Jun 18, 2008)

I use one of those vibrating engraver thingies that is used to engrave on metal, very low cost and good for signing on wood.


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## AMKCH (Jun 20, 2008)

knotscott said:


> "I also like to glue in a penny from the year the piece was made to the bottom."


That's a great idea!!! Mind if I "borrow" it?:laughing::thumbup1::brows:


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

I use an ink pen...then a drimel with a pointed tip.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

AMKCH said:


> That's a great idea!!! Mind if I "borrow" it?:laughing::thumbup1::brows:


Several years ago I read it somewhere on the internet too.....guess I should have asked permission back then, because now I can't remember who posted it! :huh: :laughing:


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## brizak79 (May 20, 2011)

I've got a couple of brands for my work; company logo, signatures, etc. Doesn't hurt that I work for a company that makes branding irons! :thumbsup:


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## txpaulie (Jul 21, 2010)

Sharpie!
Nuttin' fancy...
and not a perfect representation...
Done when I was trying to number bowls.:laughing:
Gave up on that!
p


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## rejames44 (Nov 9, 2011)

*Signing your work*

I do mostly writing instruments and it kind of hard to find a place to put my mark on them. So I came up with the idea to place it inside by using my P-Touch printer attaching to the refill or ink filler. So far its working out great.


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## rejames44 (Nov 9, 2011)

*Inside Signing of your work piece*

Most of my work is Pen Turning and there is no way to sign a pen Gracefully,so I finally came up with an Idea to use my P-Touch label printer to make a small slim label to use inside the pen. For my Fountain Pens I place the label on the ink filler or cartridge, and for the Rollerball and ball point pens I place it on the refill. even on the Slimline refills it works fine.


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## PPBART (Oct 7, 2011)

I got one of those branding irons years ago, never really liked it. Haven't used it in a long time. Now I just sign and date most pieces with a Sharpie.


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## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

You can buy decal kits from hobby stores and RC plane stores. That way you can maker your own decals pretty inexpensively. I have tried it for other uses but don't see why it wouldn't work for a signature.
I put my name, the date, and species on most work so a decal or stamp won't work for me.


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