# Is there an easy way to darken tung or linseed oil?



## EnglishElm (Dec 17, 2015)

Hi I going to finish some interior pine panelling soon and I have some tung oil that I hope to use. The problem is the finish is too light for my liking. Initially I tried linseed oil to see if that was darker than standard danish oil but its not dark enough so I've switched to tung oil but that isn't dark enough either. Is there a simple way to darken up the oil before applying to the wood? I tried adding cumin powder from the kitchen and it worked but eventually separated out after a few hours.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

There are things like Aniline Dyes on the market that can be used to dye wood many different colors. I do not know if these would mix with oil to darken it.


George


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You could add a universal tinting color to it but you would need an exacting method of measuring how much you add to insure each batch was the same color. You could also intermix some oil based enamel with the tung oil to give it some color. Personally, I think it would be easier and better to just stain the wood first and then go over it with tung oil.


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## EnglishElm (Dec 17, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> You could add a universal tinting color to it but you would need an exacting method of measuring how much you add to insure each batch was the same color. You could also intermix some oil based enamel with the tung oil to give it some color. Personally, I think it would be easier and better to just stain the wood first and then go over it with tung oil.


 I guess staining it first would be the cheapest option also I wasn't sure if the tung oil would do its work properly if the wood was stained first but from what you say it should be ok, ok thanks


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

are you using 100% tung oil or a tung oil "finish" (formby's)

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.


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## EnglishElm (Dec 17, 2015)

John Smith_inFL said:


> are you using 100% tung oil or a tung oil "finish" (formby's)
> 
> .
> 
> .


100% pure tung oil and before that I was using 100% pure raw linseed until I found out linseed oil isn't mildew resistant, hence why I switched, because I am converting a work van into a campervan so the finish is quite important. I also do not want lots of harmful toxic VOC's in my finish.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

you are using _RAW_ linseed oil ?
that stuff can take MONTHS to completely cure and become 
non-tacky to the touch. I doubt very seriously it will support
any subsequent coatings "satisfactorily".
you need to expand a little more more on the linseed oil project.
and you are correct. linseed oil can actually promote mildew 
and other microbial growth. so it should not be used where 
the wood will be exposed to long periods of shade and high humidity.
since you have already applied the raw linseed oil, I am thinking
you may have created a situation that you can not recover from 
and you may have to start all over with fresh wood.

when you say converting a work van to a camper - I am assuming
you will be using the wood inside the van ???
a sketch or drawing may help with more accurate responses.
and since you are in the UK, you may have access to stains, dyes
and other finishes that we do not have on this side of the Big Pond.

.

.


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## EnglishElm (Dec 17, 2015)

John Smith_inFL said:


> you are using _RAW_ linseed oil ?
> that stuff can take MONTHS to completely cure and become
> non-tacky to the touch. I doubt very seriously it will support
> any subsequent coatings "satisfactorily".
> ...


Its not that bad, I finished the bulkhead with danish oil then only did the side and backdoors with raw linseed (its a lwb ford transit) the rest of the van ie the walls and ceilings is untouched and left to do so I shall be using tung oil. What is done with linseed is completely dry to touch now however so I think I will attempt a coat of tung oil atop it, as I certainly do not want to be dealing with mildew down the line. I only wish I had known about this drawback of linseed earlier however as I thought it otherwise sounded too good to be true and cheap as well at only £20 ($25) for 5L at my local agricultural store!


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

What John said.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Yes...There are a number of traditional methods for doing this. I only work with and in traditional finishes. The most common is "lamp black" to the degree you wish it to be dark. I would offer that is the "generic answer" and there is more to it than that, however most "traditional finishers and painters" (aka we make our own) do not give out full formula recipes publicly or without a cost. Feel free to send me an email if this is a personal DIY project if you wish to discuss this in more detail...

Good Luck,

j


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