# need pocket hole advice



## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

i am half way through a kitchen cabinet set and so far have hidden all the joinery. i was wondering if it is acceptable or "ok" to have pocket hole screwholes visible on the bottom of the wall hung cabinets. the visible pocket holes would be to attach the bottom of the face frames to the carcases. otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.

the cabinets have full inset doors with beaded maple faceframes, birch plywood carcases and maple faceframes, lacquered white, with glass window doors.

the cabs also will have undercabinet lighting.

it seems to me that nobody will ever put their head under there so why bother plugging the holes? but i am asking what other people do for a "high end" custom cabinet set?

thanks,
drew


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

cuneiform said:


> i am half way through a kitchen cabinet set and so far have hidden all the joinery. i was wondering if it is acceptable or "ok" to have pocket hole screwholes visible on the bottom of the wall hung cabinets. the visible pocket holes would be to attach the bottom of the face frames to the carcases. otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.
> 
> the cabinets have full inset doors with beaded maple faceframes, birch plywood carcases and maple faceframes, lacquered white, with glass window doors.
> 
> ...


 
Hi drew - Well, I guess they're your cabinets so it's really up to what's acceptable to you.
Personally, I don't care for the look of pockets, plugged or otherwise. I suppose plugged and painted wouldn't bother me but I think they detract from the overall look. Just my tuppence:smile:


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

cuneiform said:


> i am half way through a kitchen cabinet set and so far have hidden all the joinery. i was wondering if it is acceptable or "ok" to have pocket hole screwholes visible on the bottom of the wall hung cabinets. the visible pocket holes would be to attach the bottom of the face frames to the carcases. otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.
> 
> the cabinets have full inset doors with beaded maple faceframes, birch plywood carcases and maple faceframes, lacquered white, with glass window doors.
> 
> ...


Hi Drew,
I would say go ahead. Since you are going to have under cab lighting install light rail trim along the bottom of the upper cabs. You will not see any pocket screws. They will be up under the recess in the bottom. To see them you would have to stick your head up under there on purpose. Under normal use they would not be seen. You would not even have to plug them up if you don't want to.

The cabs below were constructed with tongue & groove & pocket screws. Open them up & you cannot see any pocket screws. Even the two cabs with glass doors & shelf on end are stained on inside & you can not see any pocket screws in the construction.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cuneiform said:


> the visible pocket holes would be to attach the bottom of the face frames to the carcases. otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.
> 
> it seems to me that nobody will ever put their head under there so why bother plugging the holes? but i am asking what other people do for a "high end" custom cabinet set?
> 
> ...


Face frames can be just glued and clamped to the case leading edge. People do look under upper cabinets, and might even clean under there. They are visible if dining seating is anywhere near the kitchen. If you call them "high end" custom cabinets, they should be constructed that way. Sorry if I offend anyone, but we all have our own opinions on what constitutes "custom", and "high end".












 







.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Yeah, I would fill the holes. Even cleaning with a rag will catch on splinters. You'll feel better about it.


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## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

Thanks for all the responses. Ya, after thinking about it, I don't think I'd be comfortable with leaving the holes exposed. Even if no-one sticks their head under there, I'd still know they're there.

Thanks for the advice.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

cuneiform said:


> Thanks for all the responses. Ya, after thinking about it, I don't think I'd be comfortable with leaving the holes exposed. Even if no-one sticks their head under there, I'd still know they're there.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.


Don't forget the finished pictures when they are done:thumbsup:


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## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

*almost done*

heres a pic of one of the uppers. i mentioned earlier in the thread i am spraying white lacquer. also, the tall face frame on top will be covered by crown moulding.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Good looking cabinet, Drew. That will be really sharp when painted :thumbsup:


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I like the inset doors with beaded FF.

Very nice! :thumbsup:


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

The cabinet came out very nice Drew I like the style.


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

Very nice!


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I do it all the time. You can't see it unless you really try.


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

> otherwise i would have to biscuit all the bottoms which, to me, would be a pain in the arse.


There are other options as well. One is to simply use glue for the bottom rail and forget both pocket screws and biscuits. 

Another would be to put in a separate bottom, though that would be far more work than simply clamping the bottom rail.

PS: Sorry Cabinetman, I missed your post somehow. I don't understand why so many people think glue is nothing more than icing.

Cheers,
Jim


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Very nice cabinet!:thumbsup:


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## Dave R (Jul 13, 2011)

If I want to hide the pocket screws on the bottom of the cabinet I'll add a 1/4 ply skin. Just glue it on and you can pin nail it also. I make my built-ins with the face frame 1-1/2" or so longer on the bottom to be able to add the finished skin and hide lighting.
Dave


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

IMO you will eventually not even think about the fact that the pocket holes are there. I just made some cabs and attached the FF that way and you cannot see them unless you intentionlly stick you head up under there and look at them. Even if you are sitting in a chair directly in front of them you still can't see them. As someone has said, you could also choose to just forget the pocket holes on the bottom and just glue and clamp there.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

sorry, but i can't figure out where you are talking about. i ph the face frame members together, on the back side of course. but sounds like you are going perpindicular to the face frame plane, back into the carcass? is there enough ff thickness to drill that and have it work? how thick is your ff? secial ph jig? 

high end imho is not having holes.


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## cuneiform (Mar 8, 2011)

looks like i started a big debate here.

i'm surprised the thread is still going. i ended up gluing the face frames on the bottom -- no pocketholes. i do like that better.

the idea of putting 1/4 inch ply across the bottoms is really cool. i'll probably do that next time. scribed to the wall that would ensure a totally smooth, seam-free bottom. thanks!

pictures tomorrow; i'm doing touch up on the lacquer.

thanks for all the responses,
drew


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## clampman (Oct 20, 2006)

Tim,

A lot of people run pocket holes through the plywood and screw into the backs of the face frames. 

I prefer to glue faceframes onto the carcases before the backs go on, making it very easy to clamp them and to clean glue squeezeout.

Cheers,
Jim


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## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

I Usually go ahead and make the holes... Haven't seen them yet.

I like that 1/4" skin glued over it! COOL solution! :yes:

Don't forget to make something wider or longer if you need that bottom space to be a "certain amount" for lighting, etc.


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