# Fixing screw holes in veneer



## squeezy99 (Apr 3, 2009)

Hi

I have an antique project that uses an ebony laminate substrate with amboyna burl veneer - the trouble is that someone has take a drill to it and drilled through the veneer and substrate and inserted screws at some time - so now there a number of 1/16" - 1/8" holes. I'd like to repair these holes - try as I may I've not found any help on the Web.

Replacing the veneer is not an option. In addition since this is an antique any work I undertake must be reversible and use as close-as to original materials. I'd of course like to make the repair as invisible as possible.

I'd appreciate any assistance with this.

Thanks
Steve


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

squeezy99 said:


> Hi
> 
> Replacing the veneer is not an option. In addition since this is an antique any work I undertake must be reversible and use as close-as to original materials. I'd of course like to make the repair as invisible as possible.
> 
> ...



*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

Making repairs to an antique will change its value. Making a repair that is reversible to "original materials", may not be a two way street. If the antique had original holes, then a fix is changing the piece to your needs. IOW, you can't have it both ways.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A picture would be worth a 1000 paragraphs*

Steve, welcome!
Other than fillers of epoxy and the exotic wood dust mixed together, a color matched ready made filler ala plastic wood type , a dutchman from matching veneer, and a hole punch like a leather punch to the original wood to create a specific size hole and a match from a matching piece of new veneer I am out of suggestions. The holes are pretty small, so the repair should be minimal. Now as to preserving the "antique" and reversible repairs, that issue was previously settled by the idiot who "screwed it up" initially. It's already lost it's antique/original value. So, what ever you do is lipstick on the pig, you just want to make it prettier, not perfect.:blink:
That's just my opinion, however.
A close-up photo would tell us a lot. I see you are new to this so I'll tell you how. When you submit a reply click "Go advanced" then click "manage attachments" then a window will pop up, go full screen, 4 bars will show, click "browse" in the first bar, it will send you to your photo collection on your computer, click on the photo you want to add, or more than one if you want and then click "upload" then wait for the bars to go blank. Close the window and you will see under attachments the files you added or attached. click "submit" and when your post appears on the thread the photos will show...whew... Looking forward to the photos, welcome,:smile: bill


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

Depends on how good of a painter you are. Fill the holes with a plastic resin filler, paint over the hole with an exact color match paint to the body color, paint in the grain lines to be continuous and match the original. It sounds really easy but it is not, my refinisher can do it flawlessly, I have tried many times and can not, I can not see colors well enough, plus his 40 years of practice probley helps.


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## squeezy99 (Apr 3, 2009)

Thanks for the replies guys.

What I'm actually working on is a musical instrument - a concertina from 1918. I agree that it has an antique value, and that as has been mentioned it has been significantly altered by the idiot who drilled it in the first place. The box has a different value and is more desirable as good looking and playable instrument - and this value is possibly greater than the collectors value. 

For me though as a player, my main emphasis is to stabilise the integrity of the woodwork (not to mention the mechanicals, leather work and tuning - which I have done many times), and get the instrument playing having effected a good repair to the woodwork. (Incidentally finding good woodworkers with an appreciation for musical instruments is very difficult, and those that do exist often have turn around times measured in years not months!)

The veneer needs a good clean and the old finish cutting back before any further assessment is undertaken. These things I can manage. Its the repair to the holes which is at present defeating me. 

My initial thought was to fill and patch using a small punched out patch from a piece of matching(!) amboyna veneer, as has been kindly suggested, and possibly plug the holes with a laminate that I make from ebony veneer (if I can get it!). I can use water-soluable PVA (hide glue would have been used originally and I will need to use this stabilise other parts of the instrument) - although I believe that hide glue may be better for external faces that will be finished - is this correct? What ever I do, the veneer is very thin, possibly less than 1/32".

I realise patches may not be 100% invisible, but I will try and blend them as much as possible - its got to be better than the drill holes though. 

There is also some staining to the veneer caused by skin oils and/or sweat - in this area the original finish has mostly worn away. How to best clean up this mess?

Thanks for your help.
Steve


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