# New and confused?? toy chest



## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

Hello all,

I am a new member here and honestly new to woodworking in general, so please bear with me 

as a dad to two little girls and another due in March, i am trying to find ways to save some money and do some projects on my own. I decided to start with a toy chest as I am tired of seeing stuff everywhere lol

After some google searching on some tips and tricks and plans of others toy chest, i stumbled across this one and decided it would be a good starting point for me. 

http://ana-white.com/2010/03/plans-kids-open-top-toy-chest-easy-to-build.html

I kept looking it over and couldn't seem to understand how it would all go together base on her "cut list" and the corresponding drawings. So i decided to put it in sketch-up myself and see if i can get the pieces to fit, but i can't!!!

just making the box is giving me problems, and im not sure if its because im not taking the wood thickness (actual) into consideration. But based on the cut list for the front,back,bottom, and sides it doesn't seem to come together, I end up having a gap at either side..

If anyone can please help me see what I am doing wrong, I would greatly appreciate it. Also, if you know of any other plans out there that would be great too!!!

Thanks..sorry for long post


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

sonnyamorales said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I am a new member here and honestly new to woodworking in general, so please bear with me
> 
> ...


Hi Sonny, I think you're right. Looking at the top elevation of her plan and comparing it to her cut list, it looks to me like the bottom is to small, should be 1x17x34. That's having the sides and ends sitting on the bottom plate. That's the way I'd build it. If the sides and ends are made to surround the bottom all the shear forces would be on those joints.


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## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

See that's what I was thinking, having them sit in top..glad im not going crazy .. Also wasnt sure how Mdf comes (size wise) so want sure what dims I could change, any ideas??

I'm assuming like most lumber it's 1x16 than different lengths??


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

sonnyamorales said:


> See that's what I was thinking, having them sit in top..glad im not going crazy .. Also wasnt sure how Mdf comes (size wise) so want sure what dims I could change, any ideas??
> 
> I'm assuming like most lumber it's 1x16 than different lengths??


Unlike lumber and plywood, MDF is usually full dimension.. that is 3/4" is in fact 3/4".

That's another issue with the plans. I believe when they say 1x whatever, they really mean 3/4 x . The plans look like they were drawn up intending the front, back, sides and bottom to be cut from sheet goods. The top cut from 1x2 dimensional lumber which would be 3/4 x 1-1/2". 

On a side note, I would encourage rounding the top corners to at least a 3/4" radius. Thse sharp corners look like they could require 5 or 6 stitches in a toddlers forehead. :yes:


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## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

So instead of 1" Mdf you think they really used 3/4"??

Also, not sure what you mean by "sheet goods" 
Again I am new to all this wood working stuff. 
Most of what I have done has always been using lumber no mdf


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

Sheet goods refers to wood material sold in 4 ft by 8 ft sheets such as plywood. MDF is a sheet product that is basically Thin sheets of paper that is combined with resin and placed under very High compression to form the panel. Typically when referencing lumber it's stated as 1x and 2 x material. In actual dimensions 1x = 3/4" and 2x is 1 1/2" I reviewed the plans and using the actual dimensions of the material it all works out right.
Let us know if we can help with the project.:icon_smile:


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## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

Hmm..I drew the bottom, front, back and sides in sketch up according to the cut list and they didn't line up..

I don't have the plan in front of me but I will look at it again and post the exact issue I'm seeing when I try putting together.


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

In addition use Yellow Glue, I like Titebond II, to glue the MDF Butt joints befor you screw them together. TIP: Put some spackling nail hole filler in a small container and thin it with 25% water. Then brush this on the Ends of the Long Pieces since they will be exposed. This acts as a sealer for the MDF and will make for a much nicer Painted finish when it comes time. Also use a minimum of two coats of Primer before applying two coats of the Finish Paint. It will be Bee-U-TEE-Full when you are done.


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## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

Ok so i did two different sketchup models:

One based on Jschaben's dimensions and the other based on Mission's. (thank you both btw)

The only difference is the size of the bottom plate and whether the front/sides sit on top or surround the bottom.

First one:
Bottom is 3/4"x17"x34" (front/sides sit on top)

Second one:
Bottom is 3/4"x32.5"x15.5" (front and sides surround bottom)

Question is:
Which way is a better way to build? Front and sides on top of bottom or surrounding bottom? Is there any difference structural wise? 
I know its just going to hold toys but would like to build it as sturdy as possible. So which would be better in your guys point of view?

Thanks or all the help so far


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

With MDF I would put it on the inside but... I would do it a bit differently. Since MDF splits easily, I would raise the floor 3/4" and place cleats around the interior and set the floor on them. See attached pic. You will lose 3/4" in overall depth but it will be substantially stronger and won't split with heavy weight. I would use Pine for the cleats and Glue and nail them in place.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> With MDF I would put it on the inside but... I would do it a bit differently. Since MDF splits easily, I would raise the floor 3/4" and place cleats around the interior and set the floor on them. See attached pic. You will lose 3/4" in overall depth but it will be substantially stronger and won't split with heavy weight. I would use Pine for the cleats and Glue and nail them in place.


Actually, I like this one, almost, I don't think fasteners in the edge of MDF really bring anything to the party. In fact, I think they will weaken the structure. 
I would add 3/4" to the the bottom and set it in 3/8" deep dado's, 1/2" from the bottom edge all around. Rabbet the ends/side joints all around also and use tightbond II or equivalent. 
It's a little more work but should be solid. 
Ana White has some decent plans but most are oriented toward using pocket screws so when I use any of hers, I usually adjust the dimensions to accomodate better joinery. JMHO:smile:


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## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> With MDF I would put it on the inside but... I would do it a bit differently. Since MDF splits easily, I would raise the floor 3/4" and place cleats around the interior and set the floor on them. See attached pic. You will lose 3/4" in overall depth but it will be substantially stronger and won't split with heavy weight. I would use Pine for the cleats and Glue and nail them in place.


I see how this would make it sturdier, which is a good thing  quick question though.

Is that using one piece of 3/4" pine the same size as the bottom to put under the MDF?? or three different pieces.

Like I said, dont know much of the terminology when it comes to wood working 



> I would add 3/4" to the the bottom and set it in 3/8" deep dado's, 1/2" from the bottom edge all around. Rabbet the ends/side joints all around also and use tightbond II or equivalent


. 

the dados are the grooves cut into the front/back/and sides that the bottom pine would sit in correct?? Does that mean the pine has to be 3/8" larger than the MDF on all sides??

And not sure what you mean by Rabbet. 

doing some google searches as I type. thanks guys 

EDIT: I now know what Rabbet is  so would the rabbet be cut along the front and back or sides? make sense??


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

The cleats I'm referring to would just be "sticks" 3/4" x 3/4" cut at the appropriate lengths. 2 for the ends and 2 for the sides


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## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

I get it now thanks..going to finish up the model and than get a cut list going and post back to get some input.

Thanks everyone


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## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

Ok new question 

Base Moulding - when it states that it is 3 1/4" what does that mean? the height? so in her example plan its 3 1/4" high and 3/4" thick? is base moulding sold to look that plane and can be cut as shown? will answer some questions when i head to the lumber store tomorro just thought I would ask so I can continue on my sketch up model.

Thanks


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

Base moulding can be of many designs. Her drawing is just a plain 3/4" thick by 3 1/4" tall piece of wood that has the arched piece cut out. I'd just use a 1x4 piece of pine that's as clear of knots as possible and use a jig saw to cut it as shown.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I made mine - just winged it. Made from three 8 foot pieces of 1x12 white pine. I ripped the boards and then glued them up to form the panels.

The top dictated the width of the chest because I wanted the top to hang over the two ends by 3/4 inch. So, it had to be a little less than 32 inches wide.

The sides are 18 inches tall x 31 and the end panels are 18 x 16.
I glued the front and back to the side with screws sunk into the wood, then covered with 1/2" wooden plugs cut from the same material.

The lid relief and the bottom is custom designed by me (using French curves) and cut out on the band saw.

I used lid protectors sold by Rockler to prevent the lid from closing on little hands. Piano hinge across he back.

Hope this helps give you some ideas.
Mike


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## sonnyamorales (Jan 4, 2013)

That does help thanks. I'm thinking of putting a lid but not sure.

Also I think I will skip the base moulding and do something like mission said. Seems that base moulding would be more expensive anyways


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> I made mine - just winged it. Made from three 8 foot pieces of 1x12 white pine. I ripped the boards and then glued them up to form the panels.
> 
> The top dictated the width of the chest because I wanted the top to hang over the two ends by 3/4 inch. So, it had to be a little less than 32 inches wide.
> 
> ...


Very nice "Wingin It"


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## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

here's one i built for my nephew, its tongue and groove oak, which was way too much work but it matched one my grandfather built for my dad that was passed on to me, anyways I just trimmed the bottom flush, simple route on the top of the trim pieces, as for the lid, I built it flush with the "box, then ran trim around the edge to overlap the box, hope this helps, if i can help in any way email me [email protected], I have a pic somewhere of me and the nephew when i gave it to him, and i can tell ya i've built a pile of cabinets, and no matter how much work/headache it was it was worth giving something i made to him


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## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

ps diddo the post about rockler's toy chest stuff, i had no luck with the "hold up" latches earlier posted because tongue and grove is NEVER square, but i love the torsion hinges, they wont let it slam and hold the lid in place


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