# Bandsaw help needed



## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

Hey all,

I am about to throw my bandsaw out the door but I couldn't beat the price. It is a 16" Delta (model 28-560) and it was free. 







I am now trying to make it work smoother. I have replaced the motor drive belt and the tires. These two things helped a ton but there is still a couple of issues I need help fixing.

1. The upper wheel works it's way off after it runs for a while. This picture shows the tire in it's normal position.







This is how it works itself off after a while. See the slight gap between the orange tire and the bandsaw wheel? When this happens the blade works it's way to the back of the wheel. It stays on the tire though. Are the tires supposed to be fixed with epoxy or some other type of glue?







Any ideas what could be causing this? I was thinking maybe misalignment but the wheels mount directly to a cast iron frame. I don't think there is any way to fix misalignment.
2. The tensioner has not worked correctly since I have gotten it. I have all the parts needed for the tensioner but I am almost certain that the tensioner is put together from over the counter parts. 







The threaded rod that extends throughout the tensioner sometimes rotates and sometimes doesn't. Is it supposed to be fixed solid on either end? Is the threaded rod supposed to rotate or be fixed?

Thanks for the help. I hope these questions make sense and don't just make you go, HUH?.....:huh:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*That's a cool machine, throw it my way..HUH?*

Always Unplug the machine First!
You should contact cement or spray adhesive the tires on. You meant to say the tire works it's way off? Not the wheel, Right? Then remove the table and see if the wheels are all in the same plane using a flat piece of plywood with cutouts or holes to fit around the various protrusions. This will get you close. Shim out the wheels that need it from behind or if possible start with the non adjustable one and work your way out. They should also be vertical and in the same plane. Understand that concept? Too much tension may make the blade wander off the tires. As long as the tensioner stays put, you can ignore it and just use the "plucking" technique to get a feel for the blade tension. Not too high, not to low as you sound the blade like a guitar string. There are better ways, but for now this will get you close. Then back off all the blade guides and center the blade with the tracking adjustment. bring the back up guides in so they just kiss the back of the blade while spinning it by hand. Then bring the side guides in the same way. just kissing or use a folded $1 bill as a feeler gauge. Reinstall the table and hook up a 5Hp motor...no not really! :laughing: See how that works. :thumbsup: bill


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## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Always Unplug the machine First!
> You should contact cement or spray adhesive the tires on. You meant to say the tire works it's way off? Not the wheel, Right?


Thanks Bill. I did mean tire. I wonder if the problem is the blade tension. I made it pretty tight. But I will try to contact cement the tires on and check the planarity (is that even a word?:laughing of the wheels. 

Any ideas on the threaded rod in the tensioner? Should it rotate or not?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Isn't the rod the means by which you fine tune ...*

the tensioner or is it the Primary means to adjust the tension. Some saws have an overcenter cam that set the tension quickly and then there is a fine tune adjustment separately. Depending on which you have it should or should not rotate. But not all by itself at any time! 
Let us know which type you have.:yes: bill


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## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> the tensioner or is it the Primary means to adjust the tension. Some saws have an overcenter cam that set the tension quickly and then there is a fine tune adjustment separately. Depending on which you have it should or should not rotate. But not all by itself at any time!
> Let us know which type you have.:yes: bill


The tensioner is a threaded rod with a star handle on the outside of the saw. No quick tensioner. 

The parts diagram for the saw is linked here: 
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-28560-band-saw-parts-c-3275_3481_9658.html
The tensioner is on the top left of the drawing. Parts 18-25.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*That's a cool site!*

So, it's just a simple threaded rod and "nut" type tensioner. It obviously needs to move to change the indicator and spring compression gauge. But, it shouldn't be moving on it's own....ooooscary...the machine could be haunted, I can rid it of it's ghosts for you if you'll let me keep it for a while!:laughing: bill


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## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> So, it's just a simple threaded rod and "nut" type tensioner. It obviously needs to move to change the indicator and spring compression gauge. But, it shouldn't be moving on it's own....ooooscary...the machine could be haunted, I can rid it of it's ghosts for you if you'll let me keep it for a while!:laughing: bill


So if I understand you correctly, the rod should be fixed in the star handle on the outside of the machine. Doing such will turn the threaded rod as you turn the handle to tighten the tensioner.....

BTW, the two wheels that are vertical to each other on the right side of the machine are in the same plane. It is close to the other adjustable one. But the blade is able to be tracked in teh center of all the wheels. Any thing else to worry about?

It is running a bit better since I loosened up the blade and contact cemented the tires. I think I will keep it for a while longer :yes::laughing: We'll see the next time I try to resaw some wood what I feel like.


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## lumber jock (Apr 11, 2009)

PTownSubbie, I don't want you to hurt yourself. I will take that band saw of your hands.:thumbsup:


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## bob h. (Aug 29, 2007)

Agree the tires need to be glued, but contact cement will not work on urethane tires. 3M 5200 marine adhesive/sealant is the only thing I've found to be effective. Downsides are: messy to work with, and 7-day cure. Once it cures, the tire will be secure, but don't cheat the 7 days. I've heard that urethane construction adhesives will also work, but I only have personal experience with the 5200.

Regards
Bob


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

Take the entire top wheel off and flip it over. If that doesn't help, flip the left wheel assembly over, and then the bottom. If the problem won't go away, the casting is bent or one of the wheel axles is bent. But I doubt this will be. Flipping the top wheel will possibly fix the problem.


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## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

bob h. said:


> Agree the tires need to be glued, but contact cement will not work on urethane tires. 3M 5200 marine adhesive/sealant is the only thing I've found to be effective. Downsides are: messy to work with, and 7-day cure. Once it cures, the tire will be secure, but don't cheat the 7 days. I've heard that urethane construction adhesives will also work, but I only have personal experience with the 5200.


How nasty is this stuff to take off if I decide or have to replace the tires again at some point? The tires I took off were glued and it took a bit of elbow grease to get the wheels clean. Just wondering what I am up against.....


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

Do what I said before you get into the glue mess.


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