# Tips on building a tv stand



## hotsho111 (Mar 8, 2012)

Hey, first post here and looking for some tips.

I'm looking at building a TV stand like the one below but with custom dimensions.

I was looking at using a high grade plywood (don't really have the tools or space to join planks) and was wondering if you guys had some suggestions on a clean way to attach them.

I plan on painting this as well (hopefully to let some of the grain still show through).

I've used pocket screws to build some furniture before but want to try something else.

I was thinking of getting a biscuit cutter and using that with glue to hold it together. My only concern is that I've had some bad luck with wood glue actually keeping something together. I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't just a bad application though. Is it common to have wood furniture held together with mostly glue?

If possibly I'd like to make the interior removable in case I want to change the entire layout. I was actually going to try and work on a dual layer adjustable interior using slots I could slide the pieces into to adjust them. The simplest way to describe it would be like bolts spaced apart and glued, recessed, into the wood with a pin that could be screwed into them. The plywood shelves could then be slid into the gap to secure them. Think of adjustable shelving, except with a pin on both sides. Anyone have any idea if something like this exists?

Sorry for the super long post but it seems woodworking is one of those things where you need to get some advice from someone who has done it before so any input is appreciated.


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## Jim Moe (Sep 18, 2011)

The cabinet in your pic is either blind or stopped dados. It looks like 3/4" plywood with shelving set on shelf pins making the shelves adjustable. Or you can look at the joinery as a mortise and tenon application. Biskit joining will work also, and as far as the glue,don't be afraid of it as the new stuff out there is very good at holding any wood together. Get yourself a shelving jig or make one to keep the holes aligned horizontaly. You cpould also use RTA fasteners if you want a real challenge. I am sure other members will chime in and give you more ideas than I can. Git er Done!:thumbsup:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

What tools do you have and are you skilled at using them?









 









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## hotsho111 (Mar 8, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> What tools do you have and are you skilled at using them?


I have basic word working tools, skill saw, jig saw, hand saw, levels, dremel, drill, clamps, pretty much it though.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You could make that cabinet with the tools you have. Simply, the floor and the top would be the same size and larger than the cabinet. That provides for the overhang you see in the image. For the three openings, the two dividers for the center opening make 3/4" shorter than the two for the ends. 

The four of them butt to the floor and countersink and drill for a 2" coarse thread screw, from underneath. For the top, chisel out rabbets on the two ends for a 2" cross rail for front and back. The ends of the rails will fit into the rabbets on the ends, and the rails screw down into the two center dividers.

The top gets installed by getting screwed from underneath the rails. It would be worthwhile to install a back, which would help in minimizing racking. If you do, the two center dividers will be not as deep to allow for a back. The back rail will be held in to line up with the center dividers. The ends and the floor should be rabbeted to align with the top rail and center dividers to accept the back. 

Once all the finishing is done, with the back fitting snug, it should square the cabinet, and staple in place. With the door layout, making a different slide in/out assembly would have to be the same width (to line up with the doors). So it would be minimal if at all to create any change. For a bolt type vertical adjustment, using shelf clips accomplish that best. 










 







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## hotsho111 (Mar 8, 2012)

I should be set on most of the dimensions but I'm not sure what you mean by making the rabbet cut for the 2" cross rail. I do know what a rabbit cut is but I'm not sure what the cross rail would be.

I was planning on using a back with a thinner sheet of something.

If you take a look at the picture it looks like the 4 vertical pieces are all the same depth. Do you know where I could find glass hinges that attach like that so If I like the look of it better without them I don't have to recut the ends?

The rest makes sense and as actually kinda close to what I was planning.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

hotsho111 said:


> I should be set on most of the dimensions but I'm not sure what you mean by making the rabbet cut for the 2" cross rail. I do know what a rabbit cut is but I'm not sure what the cross rail would be.


The 2 cross rails tie the two ends together. The rabbets in the ends allow for the rails to seat so the tops of them are flush with the ends. The two center dividers are cut 3/4" short to fit between the cross rails and the floor. See more about the rabbets in Post #8.

Here are hinges for glass doors.










 







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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The rabbets can be cut 3/4" deep (down), 2" wide (for the front rail), and the back rail will line up with where the back will install (2" + the back). The rabbets can be 1/4" to 3/8" into the ends (horizontally).










 







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## hotsho111 (Mar 8, 2012)

Slight side note. 

I changed the design a fair bit and am going to put my center speaker in the top. It's 33 inches wide and 60 pounds.

Would some cabinet grade plywood have issues dealing that? I was planning on screwing in the shelf that will be holding that in place.


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## hotsho111 (Mar 8, 2012)

Any suggestions on the plywood to hold the center speaker?

I'd like to use 1/2 but I'm not sure if it will be strong enough.


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