# correct position for featherboard



## hodder (Aug 1, 2011)

Hello all,

I have searched the forums but have not found an answer for the question I am posting.

I have a brand new Skilsaw tablesaw that was bought at Lowes (~$120). Table size 18 7/8" x 26". Nothing fancy, just plain jane.

I have spruce wood 1" x 4" x 54" and 1" x 4" x 28". I need to remove anywhere from 1/4" to 3/4" off of the widths. I am using this to trim out windows.

I purchased a Kregg featherboard & push stick. I installed the featherboard, but am concerned that the feathers are too close to the blade. In pics 1 & 4, the tip of the blade is 3/8" from the featherboard. In pic 3, the scribbled out portion is 5/8". Because the table is so small, the featherboard cannot be moved towards the operator any more without the first screw coming out of the miter track. 

Please see the attached pics & comment as to whether this setup is acceptable or not. I want to be as safe as possible.

Thank you,
Hodder


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

EDIT: I am a [email protected]$$...


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## Schu (Jan 25, 2011)

Hodder - you have it correct in pictures 1 & 4. you want it holding the wood tight against the fence for as long as you can before getting to the blade.

ChiknNutz - if you put the featherboard past the blade or in line with the blade, you will be pinching your trimmed off-fall against the blade and scorching everything up and probably launching the whole thing back at you since you're not giving the blade room to spin.


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## jkristia (Feb 6, 2009)

I do not use my feather board too often, instead I use a push-stick on the outside to keep the board pressed firmly against the fence. I would say that as long as your feather board ends before your blade the should be good. When I use I I usually keep it about ½ - 1” in front, but I never really thought about if that is too close or not.


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Schu said:


> Hodder - you have it correct in pictures 1 & 4. you want it holding the wood tight against the fence for as long as you can before getting to the blade.
> 
> ChiknNutz - if you put the featherboard past the blade or in line with the blade, you will be pinching your trimmed off-fall against the blade and scorching everything up and probably launching the whole thing back at you since you're not giving the blade room to spin.


Does it matter that I have a riving knife on my TS? I made mine based on instructions within the manual...and I am almost positive that it stated to placed the FB behind the blade!

Thinking about it now seems really dumb to have it behind the blade. DUH!!!!!! Please ignore everything I've said on this subject thus far :icon_eek:


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## Warnock (Apr 4, 2011)

A featherboard placed behind the blade, or after the cut, is an accident waiting to happen as this will promote kickback, and burning of your stock, even if it is the waste portion.

The featherboard is used to hold your stock firmly against the fence prior to the blade to help ensure a smooth and straight cut as well as add to the safety factor.

Let some others chime in here as well if you are still not certain.


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## Schu (Jan 25, 2011)

If you're using the riving knife, then the featherboard is not holding your board against the fence, just the off fall against the riving knife. I admit, I don't use my riving knife so my answer was based on that. I have never seen it put back there so I will defer to others that use a riving knife. Just seems "wrong".


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I frequently put a 2... One before and one after the blade... When using my straight rip jig :smile: the boards ride over the fb's while they hold the jig fast to the fence, lol

But like all others above, you never want to pinch the blade... Not good. It can be 1/1000" in front of the blade...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

firemedic said:


> I frequently put a 2... One before and one after the blade... When using my straight rip jig :smile: the boards ride over the fb's while they hold the jig fast to the fence, lol
> 
> But like all others above, you never want to pinch the blade... Not good. It can be 1/1000" in front of the blade...


So maybe I'm not a complete idiot. This is what I primarily made mine for. I built a "poor-man's jointer jig" for my table saw. I placed the FB behind the blade but not in a position to pinch the blade. What it does is to hold the outfeed material to the jig which protrudes exactly the same width as the blade. I'll post a pic to show what I'm doing. I just tried it with the FB in front of the blade and it didn't "joint" worth a darn, so now thinking I need BOTH as you've indicated...maybe (unless I really am an idiot which may be the case too


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

ChiknNutz said:


> So maybe I'm not a complete idiot. This is what I primarily made mine for. I built a "poor-man's jointer jig" for my table saw. I placed the FB behind the blade but not in a position to pinch the blade. What it does is to hold the outfeed material to the jig which protrudes exactly the same width as the blade. I'll post a pic to show what I'm doing. I just tried it with the FB in front of the blade and it didn't "joint" worth a darn, so now thinking I need BOTH as you've indicated...maybe (unless I really am an idiot which may be the case too


Lol... Start another thread with a picture, a lot of us have straight rip jigs of various designs.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I put the table featherboard at least even with and sometimes a bit beyond the start of the cut but always less than the finish of the cut. Besides, if the fingerboard gets clipped by the blade, that's what it's for, just so my fingers don't get clipped. The fence mounted one is set to take control before the start of the cut and as far through it as possible.

Nutz - Where you have the fingerboard with your jointing jig is correct. Your jig prevents the stock from binding the stock on the blade. You would have binding/kickback issues if you place it even with the blade and get lousy jointing placing it before the blade. :smile:

hodder - BTW, in your first pic, IMO you blade is to high. I usually run it just high enough for a full gullet or a little more showing above the stock at the thickest part of the stock. Lowering the blade would also give you more lattitude for setting up the featherboard.


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## hodder (Aug 1, 2011)

*thank you*

Hello all,

Thank you for responding to my post. I have learned alot. This is the first time I have ever used a table saw, but have used miter & circular saws a plenty.

I have tried to read & learn as much as possible before beginning. The instruction manuals do not go into any details, so they are not very helpful. I don't want to pull back a bloody knub or get attacked by a wayward piece of board while cutting this wood. 

I have another question about the riving knife. I will post it as a seperate thread.

Again, thank you for the help.

Hodder


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