# Need some joining ideas for a raw branch/stick table



## nilsonov (Jan 25, 2012)

I am building a coffee table similar to the ones attached. Also attached is a sketchup with only a small portion shown as having the outside perimiter sticks...

The basic construction will be 2 Oval (19" x 14") peices of board joined by 2 2x4s. Then raw wooden sticks (~1" diameter) will go all the way around edges of the ovals to create the outside walls of the table. 

This is where I could use some help...how do I join the sticks to ovals? Some ideas so far:
1) drive thin nails from the outside of the sticks to the oval
2) staple the sticks to a durable tape from the back, kind of how ikea makes their lower end bed frame bases ( http://www.ikeafans.com/images/wordpress/uploads/2010/03/bed-frame-assembly-fail.jpg ) and then attach this tape/ribbon to the ovals 
3) drill the sticks into the ovals from the back at an angle, kind of like this ( http://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/pocket-hole2.jpg )

My concern with #1 is that the nail holes will visible and ugly.
Concern with #2 is that the sticks would be on rigidly (unless I use a metal ribbon) even if i use screws.
Concern with #3 is splitting either the sticks (they're only 1" or so) or damaging the ovals since they're just 1/2" plywood.

Any other suggestions for attachment?

On a non-technical note, I plan on using pine sticks with the bark on(pine because its the only good straight sticks i can find in nearby parks) and protecting them with Howard's Feed-N-Wax. Does anyone have experience in how the bark holds up on pine?

Thanks!


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

How much time do you want to spend on this project?

I think if it were me, I would notch the backside of the stick that you are attaching to the oval, kind of like a lincoln log is notched to make it stackable. The reason I would do this is to make a flat surface for the adjoining faces to meet. This would require a flat notch at each oval. then I would glue the joint, and use a 23 gauge pin nailer to attach it to the oval. The 23 gauge leaves a VERY small hole, one that is hardly recognizable. The combination of glue and nail should suffice.

Another way would be to cut the sticks in half with a bandsaw, and attach the same way.

Next, there is a reason that the pics that you posted to show examples, have stick with no bark on them. Once the wood dries out, the bark will just fall off, so if you plan on using sticks, the bark needs to be removed. 

I hope this helps.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

The bark on pine WILL fall off..

George


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## nilsonov (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks Gyle, yep...thats pretty time consuming. Was hoping to spend slightly less time on it. I've seen this type of table with the bark still on in a public place at a local mall (meaning that it holds up pretty well). What kind of wood could they be using that would keep its bark? Or better question, what kind of wood could they be using that i can find locally in the woods? (New Jersey).


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

How about using a old rope or twine and interweaving around synching it at end. One low one high like the wood fences you see at a fair. You can pick a twine or rope that would add to the Design.

Think about what George said and research and select something that's going to last.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

nilsonov said:


> Thanks Gyle, yep...thats pretty time consuming. Was hoping to spend slightly less time on it. I've seen this type of table with the bark still on in a public place at a local mall (meaning that it holds up pretty well). What kind of wood could they be using that would keep its bark? Or better question, what kind of wood could they be using that i can find locally in the woods? (New Jersey).


 







What you saw may not be real bark, or the sticks may not have even been wood. But, If I was using wood, I would machine a dado on the back side to glue to the ovals. Or, tap in a 4d finish nail into the edge of the oval, letting about 1/2" protrude. Using a diagonal cutter, nip off the nail head at an angle leaving 5/16" or 3/8". Then add glue, and hammer on the sticks.











 







.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> The bark on pine WILL fall off..
> 
> George


I beg to differ on the bark falling off. 
If cut in the winter the bark will hold tight. If cut in the spring when pitch is high then maybe. If using small sticks, bark almost will always hold tight. I've seen these before and yes c'man there real wood. 
JM 2 pennies.


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

If I am correct, the OP is just picking up sticks off the ground, so if that is the case, will the bark stay on? I don't think so. Most of the sticks on the ground are in the process of drying out, if now dried out already. 

That is good to know though,if you cut them in the winter.... Thanks Dom.

FAbian


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## nilsonov (Jan 25, 2012)

So...shortly after this thread I began my table project. As most things...it wasn't as easy as it seemed! Although I love the end result, don't think I'd do it again, at least not without a good source of straight sticks!

I used pine sticks that were dead but still on the trees and that didn't have any damage to the bark. This was the most pain in the butt process, as I had to filter out a LOT of bad or unstraight wood! My original main concern - how to attach the sticks to the table - ended up being one of the more straightforward parts of the project: I simply used sheetrock screws drilled at 45 degrees from the inside through the plywood bases and into the sticks. Pretty much like #3 in my OP but without the pre-drilling - just drove the screw straight in. From the outside, the no screws are visible. 

Below are the pics... it's been almost a year and it has held up great! 

Question though, I am concerned that the bark may start drying out along the top & bottom of the sticks (at the cuts). Any ideas what I can seal these with? Some kind of clear resin, epoxy or something else? The wax that I applied to the bark has been holding up quite well.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Wow!!!! I remember this. Yea it was a year ago. 
Well I gotta say you pulled it off. It's been done for a year? Why so long to post? As far as sealing it. Poly would be fine. If you haven't done anything to it by now. 
Looks like the inside branches are only a few inches long. Am I correct? And why not full lengths? The ones I've seen have been full sticks and the sticks were hickory. Smaller diameter hickory sticks are very strait. 
Other than that it looks very nice.


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## nilsonov (Jan 25, 2012)

I had planned to make a nice long thread with pics of the process throughout, but ended up getting so frustrated by the MUCH longer than expected process taht I just wanted to be done with it! Now I see why pretty simple tables made of raw local wood are so damn expesive...I wouldn't sell this for a $1000 bucks!

Dom, yes, the inside branches are inly a few inches long for a few reasons: 1) you cant see that they don't go beyond a few inches from the top 2) it saves big time on weigth and 3) it saves BIG time on the amount of wood I need to forage for. I toyed around with the idea of having a 2nd inner oval of full lenth sticks which would make it so that you couldn't see into the table, but that would have made attaching the outer oval layer of sticks more difficult that I wanted to deal with. If I were to do it again (the wife is pushing for matching side table) I would probably try to figure out how to attach the 2nd layer.

If you had a readily available supply of straight sticks, this project would be cake! Btw, calling around fo quotes on the glass was entertaining - I received quotes anywhere from $35 (which is what I paid) to 75, 100+, 200+, and even a $325 quote for the same exact 1/4" oval :no:


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

There are several different diameters of bamboo BBQ/satay/kebab skewers.
The Bradshaw brochette skewers are 5/32" diameter. I use pieces of them to assemble some wood carvings. That and Titebond III and it's a done deal.
BTW, nice table, too.


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