# Rail and stile for raised panel doors



## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

Is there a standard width that is used to make a rail and stile when you are making a raised panel door?

Also, what width is best for the face frame on a cabinet or pantry?
Nick


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

nblumert said:


> Is there a standard width that is used to make a rail and stile when you are making a raised panel door?
> 
> Also, what width is best for the face frame on a cabinet or pantry?
> Nick


 
Nick I usually make my Rails & Stiles 2 1/2" and 1 3/4" - 2" on the face frames unless it's a special situation and I need it wider.


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

rrbrown said:


> Nick I usually make my Rails & Stiles 2 1/2" and 1 3/4" - 2" on the face frames unless it's a special situation and I need it wider.


 Thanks for the reply, but out of 25 views I would have thought that more people would have chimed in.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Not everyone feels they can answer certain questions. I look at almost all post and can learn different ways to do things or learn things to watch for. I only answer what I know I can help with.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I did not answer because I do not know if there is such a thing as a "standard" width. I usually make mine to a scale that will look good for the size object that I am building.

G


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

GeorgeC said:


> I did not answer because I do not know if there is such a thing as a "standard" width. I usually make mine to a scale that will look good for the size object that I am building.
> 
> G


 I hear that, but how do you go about getting that measurement?


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

nblumert said:


> I hear that, but how do you go about getting that measurement?


I think what he is saying is it depends on how it looks based on the size. there is no formula for that. I gave you the measurements I did based on standard Kitchen/bathroom size cabinets. George is right because when I made this cabinet I reduced the width just a little to make it look better. I also believe it had something to do with the amount and size of wood I had hanging around. The doors on that cabinet have 2" rail and stiles. 

The type of rail and stile along with the type of panel and the size of the cabinet can all have a part in the size of the rails and stiles but for the most part I think 2" to 2 1/2" is it. At least for me anyway until I run into a situation that might make me change my thinking.


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## toolman Steve (Jun 11, 2009)

On some smaller cabinets with narrow doors , I've made them as narrow as 1 1/4" face frames & 1" stiles.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

toolman Steve said:


> On some smaller cabinets with narrow doors , I've made them as narrow as 1 1/4" face frames & 1" stiles.


 
Again that would depend on the profile of your rail and stile. Not all but most raised panel doors (Not counting the MDF Routered doors) you have a ogee or some design to the inside which measures 3/8" and a decorative profile on the outside that measures 3/8" - 1/2" that is 3/4" to 7/8" of decorative profile so at 1" stiles you would have no flat area. For th smaller stiles you need to make changes somewhere to make it work but yes it can be done.


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## RIGOOD (Feb 7, 2009)

Nick,

I hope I can explain this where it makes sense. I measure the depth of the mortise that my bits cut (typically 3/8" or 7/16") and then add 2" for a total width of 2 3/8" or 2 7/16". I do this to make calculations very simple. Whatever final width I am looking for on the doors I simply subtract 4" to give me the length of the rails. Seems to work well for me.

Rick


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm sure that everything will come out looking fine if I just take my time with the planning out of the cabinet and the construction.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Nb,
Along with what the others said, I'll add this: Go to your local big box and look at the cabinet displays. Find a cabinet about the size you want to make. Take a tape measure with you, also pencil and paper and measure and take some notes. Camera phone comes in handy too. This works on many projects whether it's a cabinet, piece of furniture or what have you. You don't have to re-invent the wheel, unless you really want to. 
Mike Hawkins


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

For a R&S raised or flat panel door, there is no "standard". I don't use measurements from production cabinets. The choices used for those applications are bare minimum for size to achieve the least expensive material cost. Some details are also used to maximize profile efficiency, which is not necessarily the best choice. 

As it has been mentioned the width chosen should be within a scale that looks and works good with the overall size of the door. I wouldn't mix sizes on the same project, like large pantry doors.

As there is some type of profile on both edges of the frame, the outside profile should be picked that will accommodate a hinge cup hole on the back side without perforating the profile. Other considerations for width would be some need for a wider machining on the back side for a different type of panel or glass insert.

Face frame width can be purely aesthetic, or determined by how much reveal if any will show between the doors and on finished ends. For inset doors, the FF should be adequate without looking "border heavy".

As a side note I do stock selection for the members of door frames. If possible I match as closely as possible vertical members to each other and likewise for horizontal members. I cut the mating stiles for a pair of doors from the same piece of wood whenever possible, and try to plan for the partner stiles of doors from the same piece. In doing this there is a better chance that the doors will stay flat to each other.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Yeah cabinetman that's what I was trying to say. Well you said it a little better. :laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## nblumert (Oct 15, 2008)

Cabinetman, that helps a ton. Thanks for explaining.


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