# How should I attach vertical panels to top and bottom of a cabinet?



## Thomaskuhn (Mar 11, 2012)

his should be a really simple question. The drawing shows 4 vertical panels between the top and bottom of this sideboard table. What is the best way to fasten them? I was going to use biscuits and glue only. I do not so much care about the bottom, but obviously do not want holes in the top. I could purchase a Kreg pocket screw setup, but do you think glue and biscuits would be enough? The wood is poplar and will be dyed ebony when finished. The hashed area in the rear is plywood, which would be biscuit-ed in also. The entire side and front will be holding/supporting sliding frosted glass (How I do this is for another post).

Thanks,

Tom


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I'd use dados, rabbets for the back.


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## Thomaskuhn (Mar 11, 2012)

I was originally thinking of 3/4 inch ply on the back. Would you you suggest something thinner? So you are saying you would dado the interior verticals and rabbit the outer two verticals, top and bottom?

Or are you saying dado the top and bottom for all four, and rabbit the whole back? I have a dado blade but what might be an easy way to move a 10' board through it?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If it were me I would just glue and nail the sides on. If you don't want the fasteners to show your idea of using biscuits would work fine. I almost never use 3/4" material for a back. I use 1/4" plywood. The only time I use 3/4" backs is on commercial work where I plan to mount adjustable shelf standards to the back.


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## Thomaskuhn (Mar 11, 2012)

I guess I could use a router for the rabbit and dados.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

What is in the vertical position at points* A*, for a back, or do you see the wall?

Are the ends of the cabinet at *B *points going to be glass?


 





 







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## Thomaskuhn (Mar 11, 2012)

Nothing at Point A for the back. You would see the wall. At point B there would be glass. Although I have not thought out EXACTLY how I am going to mount the glass, it will most likely sit in either a aluminum channel, or in a channel just cut into the wood. The glass would be on the sides and 4 panes would overlap in the front. They would be able to slide in front of one another. 

Keeping this in mind, When the top is put on, the front glass will have to be in place.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Thomaskuhn said:


> I was originally thinking of 3/4 inch ply on the back. Would you you suggest something thinner? So you are saying you would dado the interior verticals and rabbit the outer two verticals, top and bottom?
> 
> Or are you saying dado the top and bottom for all four, and rabbit the whole back? I have a dado blade but what might be an easy way to move a 10' board through it?


Hi Thomas - That's what I was saying. I was assuming a router as the verticals look like they would need stopped dados, not an easy trick on a table saw, especially with a 10' board. I agree with Steve, 1/4" should be plenty for the back, it's just needed to prevent racking. 
Rabbeting the back shouldn't be a problem, just cut the 2 center panels short the thickness of the back. :smile:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Thomaskuhn said:


> Nothing at Point A for the back. You would see the wall. At point B there would be glass. Although I have not thought out EXACTLY how I am going to mount the glass, it will most likely sit in either a aluminum channel, or in a channel just cut into the wood. The glass would be on the sides and 4 panes would overlap in the front. They would be able to slide in front of one another.
> 
> Keeping this in mind, When the top is put on, the front glass will have to be in place.


To solve your assembly question, the two outside verticals would be rabbeted. the top and bottom between them rabbeted. A ¼" back would be installed in that rabbet. The two center verticals would be cut short to the rabbet and butt against the back. The back can then be stapled with narrow crown staples to fix the back in place once the unit was squared. 

The fronts of the four verticals would be held short in a dado that stops to allow for the installation of the sliding glass doors. The mounting of the end glass and the sliding glass doors will be discussed in another post.









 







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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The fixed end glass should be installed to be replaced if necessary, so if it sits in a groove, it would have to be installed when the case is assembled. That would make finishing difficult.

You could make a short in height apron around the top and bottom, and mount the end glass from the inside with panel retainers that just hold the glass in place.

For the sliding doors, you don't have a symmetrical opening layout for either 2 doors or 4 doors. Glass slides best when it is wider than it is tall. You could use a purposed track assembly, and there are several types, or cut grooves to accommodate the thickness you use. You'll have to allow enough depth behind the apron for the bypass ability for the configuration of the track type.









 







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## Thomaskuhn (Mar 11, 2012)

just to give a better idea of what I am going for in the glass, here is a picture of something similar to what I am trying to do. Of course I will be using wood vs metal (Except for my legs which will be aluminum). Also, this piece has a full length back. I am not opposed to that, so if anyone has any artistic opinions, go for it, I am all ears.


You can sort of see multiple sliding glass partitions in this image. Since my piece is ~10', I thing 4 pieces will be good on the front, although, now that I am visualizing it, 3 would be cool too. I like the idea of a skirt to hide/acess the sliding mechanism/panel.

One more note, i want to have the glass front panels overlap vs. being flush with each other.


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