# Clear finish over paint?



## Darel (Nov 20, 2009)

I'm building a wood range hood for my kitchen. It's painted white to match my cabinets, but I'd like to apply a clear finish over the paint to make it less likely to get spaghetti-sauce stains. What can I use to apply over paint? Poly specifically says old paint must be removed but I'm not sure if they're assuming you don't want the paint in the first place.

Thanks!
Darel


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Did you have a food fight? A well painted surface should be cleanable. Just don't let stains sit until petrified. Or, you could use a waterbased polyurethane if need be.

But if you're going to let the stain sit for a while, it will stain the clear finish as well.


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## Darel (Nov 20, 2009)

It would be an easy thing for me to wipe up all my splatters and grease immediately. However, my wife is another matter.

Just out of curiousity, why would water-based poly work and not oil-based?

Thansk!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Darel said:


> Poly specifically says old paint must be removed but I'm not sure if they're assuming you don't want the paint in the first place.
> 
> Thanks!
> Darel



I don't know what you are using, but directions on the container should be your guide. I'm assuming you are referring to oil base polyurethane, and generally, it can be applied over most anything but doesn't have exemplary adhesion properties. If you wind up using it, scuff sand with 320x before application. As a side note, just between you and me, I've never had a problem with it in that department.

It will stay wet for a long time, and be a great dust collector 'til it dries. It will also darken the color of whatever it is covering. 

If you use an oil base paint on the hood, and do a good job (several coats), that should suffice to be cleanable. I would not use latex (acrylic) paint.


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## The Engineer (Mar 16, 2010)

I have known someone who painted their kitchen cabinets with automotive enamel, Imron I think, to get a high gloss stain proof finish. Worked great. Cost an arm and leg though.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I wanted to do the same thing with my router table. I asked the folks at Minwax. They told me (I'll quote as close as I remember.....)

Polycrylic is not intended to go over latex paint. HOWEVER, pros have been known to allow the latex to cure for a month or so. Then sand the surface with 120 grit and then cover with Polycrylic.

I did exactly that and it worked great. The real key is to allow the latex to cure.


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## Larry Norton (Sep 30, 2008)

I've sprayed water based poly over paint many times with beautiful results.


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## ash123 (Mar 14, 2010)

My favorite full coverage finish is Sherwin Williams. They make a three step full coverage system that comes out real nice. It's primer, color coat and clear coat. If it's used in a wet area I use their auto finish. 

The problem with many clear coats is they aren't clear. Many transparent finishes will yellow over white paint and the yellow gets worse in time. Either they don't carry the UV blockers or they are built with resins that have an amber cast. If sprayed the overlaps yellow right away. Sherwin Williams water white lacquer is a good non-yellowing finish but it will lift some paints and it's not a real great performer in a water area like a kitchen. 

For full coverage in a bath or kitchen, I'd use the auto finish process with clear coat. For enamel, use the conditioner.


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## Darel (Nov 20, 2009)

Well, it turns out the paint is acrylic/latex. So, rather than repaint my entire kitchen just to be able to clearcoat some unseen portions of the hood, I'll take your advice and skip the clearcoat and just take care of splatters and grease immediately. Thanks guys!


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