# Arts and crafts beams



## jay66ps (Jan 11, 2013)

Has anybody had experience with building beams Ina bedroom and would be willing to share their experience?


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Sorry I find this a little vague. Are you talking cosmetic beams for the ceiling, beams for some structural purpose or beams for furniture?

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## jay66ps (Jan 11, 2013)

Sorry Dave. Yeah cosmetic beams. I am thinking of doing a grid. Screw a 2x4 to the cieling and framing with 1/2"x4". Nail it all together and trim out with molding. Does this make sense?


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Yes so the 4x2's would be on edge hanging down from the ceiling and 4 x 1/2 on flat like a picture frame between the beams. 

This kind of thing can look good. What more would you like to know

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...70.1106.0j7.7.0.les;..0.0...1ac.1.H2kNk2uzFhk


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## jay66ps (Jan 11, 2013)

Thank you for the link that was helpful. I was looking to see if anybody had any advise for when they did it. What worked well and what didn't. Also would you drywall the ceiling first or after you install the beams?


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

jay66ps said:


> Thank you for the link that was helpful. I was looking to see if anybody had any advise for when they did it. What worked well and what didn't. Also would you drywall the ceiling first or after you install the beams?


Drywall first.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

That way you might cover your joints with your beams which will save you setting / stopping your joints or whatever it is called over there

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Drywall the ceiling first for sure but make accurate notes on the locations of the ceiling joists beforehand.

Your box beams will attach to these joists through the drywall. This is easier if you know where the joists are. 

Were you able to find any helpful drawings using the link I provided?

Will your box beams be painted or stained?


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## jay66ps (Jan 11, 2013)

Yeah it is a little tricky. I have a wallboard cieling and it is in ok shape. I am thinking ripping it down and re drywall which would make it easier for knowing where the joists are.

I didn't see any plans on the website but a bunch of good images. I think I might draw the plans
Myself. I am going to stain to match the other great woodwork in my house.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

If your ceiling is fine I would leave it. Paint it then put up your timber per finished.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

This may be a bit overkill for a bedroom.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Years ago they used to make Styrofoam fake beams. They looked very realistic. I used these in a vaulted ceiling living room.

Does anybody know if these are still available?

George


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

I reckon they are. There are all sorts of polystyrene building components available in Australia. My guess there would be a greater range in the states.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

I've done a few in my time

This diagram was in response to another thread so disregard the top arrow that says "this is yours"
But the rest shows the 2x detail with a crown.


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## jay66ps (Jan 11, 2013)

Thank you! That is exactly what I was thinking. Minus the threaded rod going all the way to the top. I was thinking I could just screw the beams to my joists? Is that a bad idea? I want to do wood and not fake. The precious owners had fake and I ripped them down. The diagram is very helpful. Thanks for the pics too..


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Yes Jay. 

Screw the 2x4 to the joists through the drywall. The spacing of the joists will determine the spacing of the box beams only if you attach each 2x4 along one joist.

If you run the beams perpendicular to the joists you'll be able to space them however you like. 

Your joists are probably 24" OC.

Edit:

I recommend using 1/4" x at least 3 1/2" lag bolts instead of screws.


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## jay66ps (Jan 11, 2013)

Thank you. I was thinking of using lag screw or bolts. They are stronger and would hold better.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

You're welcome Jay.

Now that we've established how to attach the primary beams to the joists I'm interested in what recommendations might be made for attaching box beams in between for the grid (coffered) look that you want.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

jharris2 said:


> You're welcome Jay.
> 
> Now that we've established how to attach the primary beams to the joists I'm interested in what recommendations might be made for attaching box beams in between for the grid (coffered) look that you want.


There is a picture in this thread some where which shows threaded rod. You put a spreader over 2 joists and bolt through this. If you have 4x2 on flat against the ceiling, 4x2 on flat over the joists, 4x2 on edge as a joist and 1/2 " plaster board you have a combined thickness 8 1/2" then you need extra thread for nut and washer.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Wouldn't this be easier?

Lay out the desired grid and chalk lines for both sides of the 2xs.

Instead of using continuous 2xs the full length of the joists break them at the points of intersections leaving a gap for the intersecting short 2xs.

This way all 2xs can be lagged into the joists.

At this point in the process accurate measurements can be taken for construction of the box beams.

By measuring , constructing and installing the box beams individually the resulting joints at the intersections will be clean and tight.

Especially critical if the beams are to be stained.


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