# Filling Gaps/Cracks/Splits



## PeckerWood

I have just completed a trestle-type dining table for our cabin in Colorado. I have intentionally used some wood with imperfections that will remain as they are on all but the table surface. Here I have some 1/8" or less cracks / splits that run about 6" to 8" in length. I want these imperfections to remain visible for the rustic look they add to the table. However, so these cracks won't collect food particles, I want to fill them with some type of clear material before putting on a BLO finish. I am open to suggestions.


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## Colt W. Knight

Injecting two part epoxy works great to prevent further splitting and filling voids caused by cracks and knotts. Also, because it dries clear, you get the full effect of the imperfections.


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## PeckerWood

Thanks for your prompt reply. I assume I'll have to sand away any excess epoxy. Have any recommendations regarding that? Also, do you think the epoxy will have any effect on the BLO finish?


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## ~WoodChuck~

you can buy epoxy in small tubes that will mix the 2 parts as you squeeze it out. Tape off the areas you dont want to get epoxy on. 
I wouldnt use just blo on a dining table though.


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## PeckerWood

Yes, I was concerned about the wear and tear on the table surface. Would you recommend polyurethane for more durability? Can I put that on top of the BLO?


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## ~WoodChuck~

yes you can poly over the blo. wait at least 2 days for it to cure though. You are not going to get protection from linseed oil. All the linseed oil will do is slow down the shrinking and swelling factor.It offers no protection on the surface. Some people would use laquer but if the table is large you might want to spray. Personally I would polyurethane it.


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## Gene Howe

PeckerWood said:


> Yes, I was concerned about the wear and tear on the table surface. Would you recommend polyurethane for more durability? Can I put that on top of the BLO?


I believe you can even mix oil based poly and BLO to get a wipe on product. If you use water based poly, better let the BLO fully cure. Not sure I'd even try.

Some of my projects have included turquoise and other stones and metal filings in epoxy to fill "negative spaces". Most often, I tape off the void before applying the epoxy then sand with 100 working up to 320.
If you decide to color it, acrylic hobby paints work well.


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## PeckerWood

PeckerWood says THANKS! to Gene, Woodchuck, and Colt. I'm confident I can get a good finish on this table now.


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## jlhaslip

1/3 BLO, 1/3 Oil Poly and 1/3 mineral spirits is a great wipe-on finish.
It does need to cure between coats. Probably 3 coats minimum.
Allow a day between if your space is heated to 65 degrees or longer if cooler.


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## PeckerWood

I used the clear (DevCon) epoxy. Worked very nicely, but I over-filled some of the cracks and had to carefully scape that away from the surface which left a rough, dull sheen. Had to sand that out with 350 grit which darkened the epoxy. I am not the least bit dissapointed though as the darkness matches the wood beautifully.
Used jlhaslip's 1/3 mixture and the finish is just great. I intend to apply 5 or six coats. 
TWO QUESTIONS: 1) Is it necessary to sand between coats? 2) Will the diluted polyurethane (oil based) be enough protection for the dining table surface?


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## Gene Howe

To sand between coats is a function of how many particulates land on the uncured finish.:furious:

If all goes well, I sand before the final coat and apply wax with a gray scrubber after the final coat has cured.

For a harder finish, the final coat could be undiluted poly.


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## PeckerWood

Thanks Gene! What kind of wax to you recommend to apply over BLO. And what is a gray scrubber?


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## Gene Howe

My favorite paste wax is Briwax. I get it at Ace. Johnson's is another good one. 

The pads are a synthetic, non woven material. Similar to the pads the wife uses at the sink. The LOML uses green ones (heavy duty) to scrub her pots and pans. 

Below is a link to Mcfeely's where I get the pads. I'm located in a very rural area so ordering is my only option. If you are in a more metro area, you can probably find the same pads at a well stocked hardware or auto paint store. 0000 *oil free* steel wool works, too. Use a magnet to clean up the stray wool off the work.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/search/abrasive+pads

Another hint: I have used the gray then white pads to polish the cured epoxy. Just lay it on the area and set a jitterbug sander on it. No need to cut it and attach it to the sander. The rubber sander pad will hold it pretty well on a small area. It doesn't take much if you've already taken it to 320.
You've probably already figured that it's best to apply the epoxy filler well before rough-final sanding of the entire piece. Saves a lot of clean up around the edges of the void.


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## cabinetman

Gene Howe said:


> To sand between coats is a function of how many particulates land on the uncured finish.:furious:
> 
> If all goes well, I sand before the final coat and apply wax with a gray scrubber after the final coat has cured.
> 
> For a harder finish, the final coat could be undiluted poly.



I wouldn't use any wax on a finish. It offers nothing but a temporary visual effect. It will preclude doing any film finishes if necessary without a lot of preparation. The ideal finish is one that needs no maintenance.


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## Gene Howe

cabinetman said:


> I wouldn't use any wax on a finish. It offers nothing but a temporary visual effect. It will preclude doing any film finishes if necessary without a lot of preparation. The ideal finish is one that needs no maintenance.
> 
> Very true, Cabinetman. However, most of my work has recently been for family and the LOML will wax anything that sits still long enough. Might as well do it and save her some work. :thumbsup:
> Cabinets and furniture built for others do not get waxed. At least not by me.
> One caveat....All my little boxes get waxed because I like the way it feels as well as looks and I want folks enjoy both.


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## PeckerWood

Have a bit of a challange. First coat of 1/3 1/3 1/3 looked great when wet. The grain stood out nicely. However, when dry and cured there were numerous areas that didn't seem to absorb the wipe-on. Second coat didn't change that equation. Am considering a light sanding and reapplication of just diluted urethane. Any advice?


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## WoodRic

IF you want a truely tough finish, get the pour on two part epoxy.
Pour it on, and use a soft plastic squeegee to smooth it off leaving only a thin film.. yes, over the whole table.
Let it dry, give it a couple of more coats. 
That finish will be tough enough to skate on, and still look great.

You don't HAVE to use the epoxy finishes as a thick poured look.


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## cabinetman

PeckerWood said:


> Have a bit of a challange. First coat of 1/3 1/3 1/3 looked great when wet. The grain stood out nicely. However, when dry and cured there were numerous areas that didn't seem to absorb the wipe-on. Second coat didn't change that equation. Am considering a light sanding and reapplication of just diluted urethane. Any advice?



You can scuff sand with 320x and reapply the same mix. You may need more applications. I would go for 4 or 5. You could also just use a thinned version of the oil base polyurethane.


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## del schisler

PeckerWood said:


> Have a bit of a challange. First coat of 1/3 1/3 1/3 looked great when wet. The grain stood out nicely. However, when dry and cured there were numerous areas that didn't seem to absorb the wipe-on. Second coat didn't change that equation. Am considering a light sanding and reapplication of just diluted urethane. Any advice?


 two part epoxy I have poured 100's of cypress clock's in the 70's Just one coat will do the job You need to break the little *bubbles* that form as it is curing They make bubble breaker Or if you have a small *Gas Torch* Use the flame Now don't get to close or it will bubble look across the finish and you will the bubbles break and get glosey It will not run it But you will have to put another coat What is so good about this is if a bug get's stuck in the finish Just sand him out Now pour another coat and you will not see the sand marks You can sand with 50 grit and pour epoxy you will not see the sand marks Done this so many time It is a good and hard finish Some bars do this You can put coin's on the table and pour over it look's like they are inches thick good luck


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## brendanrcarpenter

Peckerwood, 

Although you didn't ask and depending on how much work you want to do you might consider putting in some butterfly inlay keys across the cracks to keep them from spreading further. They are relatively simple to do while adding a nice visual conversation piece to a table that will obviously be used extensively. I'll try to copy the link to my post I just submitted which has some of these put in. (although, mine were purely for visual effect not preventing spread). If the link doesn't work the title of the post is "A little imagination will go along way". 

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/little-imagination-can-go-along-way-16462/

Brendan 
Furniture Maker
www.brendancarpenter.com


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