# Length of logs for milling



## dognobbler (Sep 18, 2012)

A question for those of you lucky enough to own your own mill. What lengths of logs do you prefer to "plank" out? I am getting some Red Cedar and Black Walnut free and am thinking of getting some of it milled.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

dognobbler said:


> A question for those of you lucky enough to own your own mill. What lengths of logs do you prefer to "plank" out? I am getting some Red Cedar and Black Walnut free and am thinking of getting some of it milled.


Well the question is....... How long are the logs your getting?


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## dognobbler (Sep 18, 2012)

Well, the Cedar has been cut down already and I'm cleaning up but it is only me and my truck. I can dead lift about a six to seven foot log about 12 inch diameter at the thickest. And as for the Walnut that drops to four to five foot log same diameter. So are these viable logs for a band saw saw mill.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

dognobbler said:


> Well, the Cedar has been cut down already and I'm cleaning up but it is only me and my truck. I can dead lift about a six to seven foot log about 12 inch diameter at the thickest. And as for the Walnut that drops to four to five foot log same diameter. So are these viable logs for a band saw saw mill.


That depends. All sawmills are different. The bigger the better in my opinion.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

I saw all lengths and have all lengths waiting to be sawed...BUT....I don't cut for production....12" cedar is nice size around here...12" walnut is sawable but is limited to how much high grade is available. The lentgh depends on your sawyers mill and his desires....most frown at short logs....labor intense due to size. I do cut 4' on my mill but spend alot of time (labor) setting and adjusting to fit to clamp for sawing.

Show us some pics as you work. Congrats on the find.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

If I use wood for table tops it has to be a minimum of 6ft and better yet 8 to 9ft for more formal settings.
Otherwise for a kitchen table I won't even bother with the stock. You can always cut very long and shorten to a clients needs later, but you can't add length. If you have clean logs of x length, (in my opinion) you should get all the length available that the log dictates. Labor intensive? I suppose, but also longer boards/planks bring a slight higher dollar, since they are not readily available.

On cedar, think what is available in big box stores. Sometimes special orders over 16ft for decking or other uses.


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## dognobbler (Sep 18, 2012)

Some of the logs have branch stumps would it be best if I smooth these off before taking them to the mill? I have angle grinder and flap wheel.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Woodworking Talk


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

dognobbler said:


> Some of the logs have branch stumps would it be best if I smooth these off before taking them to the mill? I have angle grinder and flap wheel.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7 using Woodworking Talk


Depends on the style of furniture your going after. 
If you like rustic like I do, then I'd leave them on depending on their location. If your modern or a contemporary woodworker, than you would probably want them all off to make lumber that is uniformed in thickness and width. 
The uglier the better for me. 
Your sawyer may help you decide what should be done. After all he is using his mill. 
Good luck and show us some pics!!!!
No pics it didn't happen? So you don't have any logs do you?


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

I used to take logs to a mill that specified 12' minimum length and 8" minimum diameter. Most one-man sawmills, however, will accept just about any length as long as they will span the clamps on the mill (6' or so) if they are sawing by the hour, then longer logs will save you some money.

There are few woodworking projects that require lumber longer than 5'. Even long tabletops can be constructed from short planks end-joined. I like that look myself. The aprons need to be one-piece.

Finally, you probably want to keep the boards a bit shorter than the height of the ceiling in your shop/work area. If that's 8', then cut the logs to 8'-6" so that you will have a little excess for trimming checked ends after drying.

Your sawyer will greatly appreciate it if you bump the knots off with a chainsaw. If he has to do it, he will probably charge extra for it.


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## dognobbler (Sep 18, 2012)

Pics as requested/promised.

















































Two truck loads of Black Walnut also a picture of a dead standing one I still have to get. Brush pile of Cedar that I'm slowly recovering the main logs from. 









Sent from my Nexus 7 using Woodworking Talk


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## scsmith42 (Jan 24, 2011)

Log length is less important than the presence of defects in the logs. Typically I won't mill anything shorter than 4', but I advise people who bring me logs to leave them as long as possible. When they arrive at my sawmill, we can review the logs together and make the decision regarding where to buck them in order to prevent defects in the milled lumber.

Based upon the photo's of the "logs" in the pickup bed, most of them are not worth milling either due to the small size or defects in the logs.


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## Rob Brown (Jul 7, 2009)

*log length*

I prefer to keep my logs down to about 8 or 9 feet in an idealic setting, but the log will dictate what comes out of it. A 6 footer is as good as any, but a 16 footer is very difficult to handle. I know this because I have done it a few times. Bigger logs require bigger equipment in all respects, and are more difficult to sticker and store. You have to study the tree to see what is in it. Twisted bark indicates twisted grain patterns and twisted planks. Same with leaners and big branch wood. Another issue is lightning, which will cause a lot of disappointment when the planks start to dry out, and suddenly start to crack. Every log will differ from the last. It's all fun if you are carefull!!


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