# Need Help with Making this Media Cabinet



## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

My wife wants this.

I need help with choosing materials, design, and joinery techniques.

I have Tablesaw, Bandsaw. That's about it. If I can justify it, I can buy a tool to finish this. Maybe a router is needed, or maybe a pocket hole jig. But if I can finish it without buying a tool, that's fine too.

I'll try to organize my thoughts here in this thread, and maybe you guys can help me as I go.

*Finish: *I will paint/sand/distress it to look exactly like the example. 

*Top:* Should I use 1/2 or 3/4? Birch? To trim the top, I plan to use Poplar. How wide should the strip be? Is glue ok, or do I need a mechanical Joint? Anything I can do with table saw and regular blade?
Actually, I will probably need to use 3/4 because the hardwood I would band with would be 3/4 think also... I don't have a planer... Right?

*Doors * Are those Individual boards with a roundover, and then glued into a panel? Or is it a panel that has been routed with grooves? How can I achieve that look without a router? Would 4 peices of plain Whiteboard glued together give me a similar look? 

*Legs* Glue up 3 strips of 3/4 poplar? Make them into a 2 1/4 Square Leg?

*Case* 1/2 Ply or 3/4?, Same nice quality as the top? How do I join the case? Could I play with Rabbets cut on the table saw(no Dado blade)? 

*FaceFrame* Poplar here as well? It will have to be 3/4 thick, which is a waste right? But do I have a choice? How do I join it? Pocketscrews? I can cut tenons on Table saw, but Mortises are out?

That was alot of questions... But i'll keep coming back here with more until this project is done. 

Thanks.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

your poplar will probably be 3/4". Your plywood probably wont be. IME its more like 11/16th or so, might vary by brand though. there are options... but I might say just get the top flush and let the bottom stand proud, no one will see that anyway. otherwise a router would be your friend.

legs, Id use a solid peice of wood because I think it would be easier, I wouldnt be opposed to using some 4x4 dimensional lumber I dont think... rip it to the right size on the bandsaw or table saw.

doors, I would use individual planks, 1x4s I would guess, you want rounded edges though, so router or cheat and rip the corners off on the table saw at a 45degree angle.

pocket screws are neat and tidy, but you could get away without them I think. Glue, and some finish nails if you have a gun. (if you dont, I think that should be high on your xmas list)

Id use 3/4 everywhere because thats all big box sells, if you have 1/2" I think that would be very sufficient for the sides, Id stick 3/4 on top for aesthetics, you dont want the profile to be too thin.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Here's something for you to consider. You could use these for the doors. Lowe's carry's them in individual planks. 3/4 x 6 feet or 8, I forgot.

You wouldn't need a router. However, I couldn't guarantee the door to be flat.
I used them for the back of a secretary I built for my sweetie.
Mike


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

That's cool. 

Oh wow I hadn't thought of the fact that plywood isn't exactly 3/4... I would definitely have to let the overhang be on the bottom... Is the top the only place where I would have this problem? Going through it in my mind that seems to be the case.

Here's another question, how does the case attach to the Legs? Do you attach the case or the Face from to the legs? Gotta be the case right? Then the face just attaches to the case only?


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

no other visible frameless front, so shouldnt be a problem. which makes sense since its a frame cabinet 

I think I would build the legs as part of the face frame. and for that, you either need a mortise or a pocket screw to join the rails to the legs.

Inside bottom, Id probably dado it, but as you dont have that option... you could fasten some rails/cleats inside the frame with screws to support the bottom (plus glue).

Should be fun and well within your tool capabilities as it is really designed to be "rough". You could definitely try your hand on some mortises with chisels.


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

Here's a book you'll need. It will have answers to questions you didn't even know you should ask. 
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Illu...qid=1414765091&sr=1-2&keywords=cabinet+making

BTW, the doors would traditionally be made with tongue and groove boards and held together with battens. There are several ways to imitate that look. I think a router would be indispensable on a project such as this. Good luck.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

Thank you for the book suggestion. I have it on the way.

I am trying to sketch this up. I am so confused on how the legs apply to this project. How does the plywood case attach to the legs? On the side panel, does it slide into a dado cut into the leg? What about the back, the same thing? 

Then the bottom of the case, does it attach to the legs, or does it slide into a dado on the side and back, with a notch cut so it slips past the legs?

Am I over complicating this?

Bauer, If the front legs are part of the face frame, that would work, and the bottom shelf rests on a cleat, but what about the back side, there is no face frame back there... This seems like a tougher option than making the legs part of the case. 

I am also probably going to use pine or whiteboard from homedepot instead of the poplar I was talking about. I'm going for "Rough" look anyway.

I'm still confused, but I'm going to finish this thing... And I appreciate the help from you guys.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

the back/side of the cabinet is the frame. pocket screws or some sort of mortise or blind dado joint (maybe its the same thing) into the legs. You need some way to join the legs to the panel. Your cleats in the back to support the bottom shelf will attach to the panel.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

If I were building that cabinet, I would use pocket screw construction to attach the face frame pieces to the legs. Same for the sides.

To get the set back, simply use 1/4 inch spacers when you put the pieces together.

Search you tube for Kreg videos. I have seen one where the guy builds a wall hanging cabinet and one where they build a table.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

OK, this is starting to make sense. 

If I buy a pocket hole jig, do I need the fancy one( k4 or k5?), or one of the smaller setups? What would you guys recommend?


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

I have the K5, its pretty nifty, easy to use, and it works well. Kreg is a company who's products I have come to trust, they are well designed. 

But they arent cheap, Im sure a cheaper option can work too, I just havent used them.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Dovetails said:


> OK, this is starting to make sense.
> 
> If I buy a pocket hole jig, do I need the fancy one( k4 or k5?), or one of the smaller setups? What would you guys recommend?


Originally, I bought the single hole jig. It was the cheapest model. I learned quickly, that wasn't for me. Drilling one hole, unclamping, move to the next one, repeat got tiresome quickly. I guess I wait in a hurry.

Then I bought the Kreg model shown below. I don't recall if it is the K3 or K4. the clamping handle is on the opposite side of the user.

When you are drilling multiple holes, this model makes work go faster. $ = how fast you want to go. Just like drag racing! :icon_smile:

Now I have modified my jig with a pneumatic operator for the clamp. I can drill as fast as I can reposition my work piece. The biggest benefit is I don't have to reach over or around larger pieces (cabinet sides) and end up scratching my arm, which I have done several times.

By the way, I still have that single holer. I use it sometimes when I forget a hole or three.  You can see it in the tackle tray.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

Well I got after this thing this weekend. I purchased the K4 pocket hole jig and a box of 1 1/4 screws. Without this, I would have been in over my head I think... 

Also, I got a sheet of 3/4 ply (not Hardwood), and I chose to go with "Select Pine" boards from Home Depot. The poplar they had didn't have the same selection, nor did they have a 1.5x1.5 inch board poplar board to use for legs, so I would have had to laminate a leg, which would be hard for me without a Jointer I think.

I started by cutting the pine boards for the legs. I learned after the first cut that my miter saw blade was not aligned... that first cut was crooked as heck, so I gave up and moved to the table saw, using my miter gauge to clean up the legs. (I googled and learned later how to adjust and fix my miter saw)...









Then I cut the back and sides from the ply. After that I went to work drilling pocket screws. This was an adventure too... At one point on some test cuts I sunk the drill bit into the base of the jig, and put a hole in the brand new jig... (oops)

But I managed to get those cut in, I wasn't sure how many to make, but I used alot.

Next step was to attach the legs to the side and back using the pocket screws. This worked very well. I had to measure out the spacing so the legs stuck out of the cabinet, but we got it done.









Then I cut the front bottom rail from Pine, pocket screwed it to the legs, and the case was done.

Then I measured and cut the bottom from 3/4 ply, and pocket screwed it from the bottom in to the sides, back, and front rail.

After that I measured and cut the 2 vertical interior pieces of shelves, and the 3 horizontal shelves. I pocket screwed all of this together... But Alignment on these was a nightmare... I would assume if I measured and cut dado's it alignment would have been so much easier... With the pocket screws, I was really just winging it, and it was a challenge. 









Eventually I got all of the inside stuff done, and installed. Then it was time for the edge banding on the plywood... 

I screwed up and didn't account for there to be a banding on the two shelves behind the doors... (I am going to put a door on these bad boys). So basically, there is banding on the middle "H", but not on the shelves behind the doors, otherwise, the door would not fit...

The Door itself, will be the same size (3/4) and fit where a face frame would fit on this part... 

I cut the banding out of 3/4 "Select" pine, and glued it on, and clamped it with Masking tape. Worked great.









Next step is the top, and then the doors, then finish and move it into the house. Thanks for the help, and I'll be back to finish up.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

heh, looks good to me. Might be a *few* more screws than necessary. For knowledge purposes, wood glue alone will build pretty much anything to last forever. Screws are just a lazy mans clamp (and Im very ok with that lol), 2 or 3 is all you need typically. Saves you from plugging a million holes later.

Your right though, the nice part of dados is that it aligns itself based on precise cuts made with a fence. screws require you to line it up on the fly.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

I got back at it today and finished the top. Cut the piece from 3/4 ply, and banded it with pine. 









I picked up a used router the other day, and built a table mounted setup. I ran that piece through a flush trim bit and a high fence. It was sketchy, and wasn't perfect, but it trimmed the edges pretty smooth.

So, next question. How do I attach it? I could drill pocket holes from inside the cabinet up into the top, or I could glue it down, or whatever else... Thoughts?


After this will be the doors... That's going to be interesting, but I'm ready for a challenge.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

well, if you got a router, dont rule out a nice dado cut around the top. 

otherwise I would probably glue it. could do pocket screws, or just countersink and plug some screws down from the top. It is painted after all.


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

Since the top is plywood, I'd use pocket screws and glue. A solid hardwood top needs to allow for movement, but no such worries with plywood. It seems that whenever you need to move the piece, it gets picked up by the top, so I like that to be strong.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

Thanks gentleman. The top is on, I used glue. I could not fit the pocket hole jig inside the cabinet to screw up into the top... Hopefully the glue is strong enough to hold'er down.

Next question, what can I do to the edges? they are extremely sharp. What do people do to them? Do you use a slight roundover, or a chamfer bit? I'm not sure what would look, and feel good.

Thanks.


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

just go easy on lifting the table by the top.

can round it with a router, or just give a few passes with some sandpaper to soften it.


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## Dovetails (Jun 8, 2014)

Well I finished the cabinet, and it's setup with in the living room. My wife is very happy, and it looks great.

The doors were a mess for me. I was able to find a 12' long pine shiplap board. I cut it up and used for the doors. I cut and glued it oversized.









Then I sat it in place, and used a $10 flea market stanley plane to trim them to fit... No one told me flush, inset doors would be so hard to make... 











Finished door fit in cabinet before hinges:









Installing hinges for the first time ever, trying to get this flush and even, was a huge PITA. But eventually they went on... 










Then it was time for the finish:










After all that, I don't have a good finished picture... Before we moved it in the house I cleaned up that hole for cords that looks so ugly now. 

Overall it was a success. I had problems with the doors... As soon as the paint hit those doors, they instantly warped. I mean within 2-3 minutes... Once they warped it was bad news from there. I am waiting on them to stabilize, then figure out how to fix them...

Thanks for the help along the way.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

Looks good, wish you luck with the doors.


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

Screw some 1/2" stabilizer cleats across the back side of the doors and they should flatten out nicely.


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