# What to finish Birds Eye Maple table?



## rg05 (Jan 6, 2009)

I'm just finishing up a coffee table made of birds eye maple and I'm trying to figure out how to finish it. I'd like it to stay the nature color of the wood but not quite sure how I should go about putting on a finish. Any comments would help Thanks


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## garryswf (Aug 17, 2009)

*How to finish*

Rg,
Not sure how you what your finish to look when it is comleted but there are other options you can consider. I have noticed most replys to applying a finish to a project on this forum leen towards lacquars and polys. Surf the internet under old methods of finishing a muzzleloader and you will find different ways the old-timers finished curly and birdseye maple. The methods they used really made the birdseye and tiger stripes pop, i think it consisted of a specific type of acid and knowing how to apply it and how long they left it on. I have seen stocks done that used this method. Or Birchwood casey tru-oil gun stock finish for a clear unstained finish. just my 2 cents worth.


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

Birdseye Maple IMHO.... shows off best when simply clear coated with an oil based varnish or one of the lacquers (I'm not real familiar with the various lacquers so I don't know which one) that amber up the Maple just a bit. If a water based clear coat or one of the lacquers that are pure white (or totally clear) are used.... I don't think the BEM is quite so stunning. Honestly, I believe the higher the gloss and deeper the finish.... the better on BEM. Something like a French polish or hand rubbed piano gloss type finish is the cat's meow on BEM. But of course, YMMV, FWIW, just my $0.02 and all that.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

If you don't want it to change color at all, I would use tung oil then lacquer. The tung oil will make the grain pop and lacquer will make it durable. If you don't mind a little amber color I would use boiled linseed oil followed by amber shellac and wax. That is my favorite finish for figured woods because it really brings out the grain of the wood.


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## rg05 (Jan 6, 2009)

A little amber color sounds nice. I just want it to pop and look good. Julian, if i was going to use the boiled linseed oil, do you just buy linseed oil from a wood working store and then boil it? Or am I completely off? I've never used the stuff or know anything about it.. Do you put it on when its hot? or let it cool? Thanks


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## rg05 (Jan 6, 2009)

I just figured out boiled linseed oil i just what its called. lol.. Any brands you would recommend for the shellac and boiled linseed oil


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

I like to add 10% poly to BLO and/or tung oil apply to surface, let stand for about 15..20 min than wipe off by rubbing. Use 3M foam sanding pads 220 grit after waiting 24 hrs to dry. I would apply about 3 coats using this method.

One other method would be to apply poly thinned about 5% for each coat. Apply to wood with a natural brissel brush than take a foam brush about 2" wide and go over surface of each coat before it dries. Only dip the foam brush about 1/8" into the poly. The foam brush will remove brush marks, lint, stray hairs etc. Let dry than use 3M foam sanding pads 220 grit after waiting 24 hrs to dry and before next coat. When you use the foam brush do not I repeat do not apply alot of pressure...just drag it across the surface. This method will product a spray finish appearance. I have use this method using marine lacqure (when you use lacqure only do about a 18" sq area at a time) and poly with positive results.


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## Jim Tank (Apr 28, 2009)

There are as many products and methods as there are woodworkers, a good durable finish makes or breaks the project. A good wood finisher is more prized than a great woodworker. Try doing a dozen samples of different finishes, the ones mentioned in the above posts are a great place to start. When you're done you will have a little experience and a selection of samples for future references. (hint: make your samples 11x36, and when finished cut them into 5x7 pieces for easy storage in a nice carrying case that will hold 20 or so. the case shows off your craftmanship, and the samples stay clean) Assign a number to each type of finish with the formula and procedure written on a 3x5 card that goes in a recipe box. That way finish #201 will be remembered exactly, and the samples are very useful when matching an unknown finish later. A great finish is just as satisfying as the working of the wood.


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

I couldn't agree with Jim more. Although my methods aren't quite as involved as his.... I still use a Sharpie (or permanent pen of some type) and write the finishing schedule on the back of my samples and keep them. You would be surprised how many different combinations you can come up with that actually look pretty nice. Even when just "messing around."


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## Stan P. (Jan 11, 2010)

*BLO is the way to go*

Hi rg05, I once asked a very similar question about Curly Maple. I emailed Micheal Dresdner, who used to work for Martin Guitar Co. and is a finishing guru. He said, and I completely agree with him, that the best way to "pop" the grain on highly figured woods is to use Bolied Linseed Oil followed by your favorite top coat. Don't make the mistake of using Raw Linseed Oil, which will take _forever_ to dry, but be sure to use Boiled Linseed Oil. BLO is simply Raw Linseed Oil with some drying/hardening agents added. It isn't actually "boiled" at all. BLO makes the grain come alive and is super easy to use. Just be sure not to leave the rags in a pile when you're done or they can spontaneously combust. Old timers used to heat the BLO up to 120-130 degrees/f to help with penetration. Don't use oil based finishes on any of the oily exotics like Teak, Rosewood, Cocobolo, or anything from the dalbergia family. Oil based finishes won't propperly cure on these types of wood and will feel "sticky" forever.


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## rg05 (Jan 6, 2009)

Thanks alot stan. After reading all the advice, Boiled Linseed Oil seems like the way to go. Thanks everyone for the advice


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## Stick (Aug 23, 2007)

Stan P. said:


> Hi rg05, I once asked a very similar question about Curly Maple. I emailed Micheal Dresdner, who used to work for Martin Guitar Co. and is a finishing guru. He said, and I completely agree with him, that the best way to "pop" the grain on highly figured woods is to use Bolied Linseed Oil followed by your favorite top coat. Don't make the mistake of using Raw Linseed Oil, which will take _forever_ to dry, but be sure to use Boiled Linseed Oil. BLO is simply Raw Linseed Oil with some drying/hardening agents added. It isn't actually "boiled" at all. BLO makes the grain come alive and is super easy to use. Just be sure not to leave the rags in a pile when you're done or they can spontaneously combust. Old timers used to heat the BLO up to 120-130 degrees/f to help with penetration. Don't use oil based finishes on any of the oily exotics like Teak, Rosewood, Cocobolo, or anything from the dalbergia family. Oil based finishes won't propperly cure on these types of wood and will feel "sticky" forever.


 Anyone have a picture of a BLO finish on curly maple?


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