# Garage/Garden Bench



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Ever have a project that just sat half finished for nearly a year? This is mine. It's been taking up space on my work bench far too long and it's time to get 'er done!

It's a cedar bench for gardening or use in the garage (although my wife just informed me she'll be using it in the mud room until I build something else...) I'm taking ideas from various benches that I've seen in magazine's, online and elsewhere to make a design of my own, although it's pretty conventional. I'm just not working from plans.

Started out with cedar deck boards from the local home center and milled them to size.









Seat and legs required a glue-up. I gave up trying to match grain on this.









I built this 10 degree jig for drilling the mortices. The legs will have a 10 degree splay.









I used my RAS to cut the 10 degree bevel on the leg bottoms. Here I'm using the off-cut as a guide for the mortices where the legs go into the seat. 









My chisels felt dull and I was getting a lot of tearout in the soft cedar. I got the mortices and tenons done and dry fit but needed to sharpen. I wasn't very happy with my scary sharp setup and so the project sat in this state since last September waiting for a better sharpening setup. :blink:


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Cut to this week when I finally get tired of seeing this on the bench. Got a WorkSharp 3000 and sharpened up the chisels. In my own defense, I've been building out my shop, fixing and selling tools to fund my growing obsession, and getting a few other projects done. Still, enough is enough so let's go!

Here I've got the jig in use cutting the through mortices in the legs.









I acquired my bandsaw (PM141) since starting this project but have only used it on a couple small things. I had given it a thorough cleaning and complete re-tune (see http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/band-saw-tune-up-u-tube-video-40292/) plus a new SuperCut blade, so I was looking forward to trying it out on something that required some precision. Holy cow I wasn't disappointed! The former owner complained about this bandsaw "screaming" but this was something entirely different, almost otherworldly it cut so smooth with no drift at all. :thumbsup: Now I'm looking around the shop thinking about what else I "need" to cut with the bandsaw. :laughing:

Cut the shoulders with the table saw then finished here with the bandsaw.









Here is a dry fit - where I am now. There is some clean-up left to do, routing of edges etc. but it's fully functional now. I plan to use a wedged tusk coming down through the tenons (probably walnut). I had thought I would then glue everything together but since it doesn't seem to need it I'm now thinking I'll skip the glue and just tighten up by pounding in the wedges when needed. The only concern is that the top is not held on with significant mechanical joinery but I think the hidden tenons may be enough. I'd appreciate input on this point. I'm planning to finish it with Penofin Red Label.


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## Kirch3333 (Dec 23, 2011)

Looks good! That is some beautiful cedar....


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

A project sitting half finished for a year can be considered just started at my place. :laughing:

I have a decorative board which was started over 3 years ago. Got around to working on this a few months ago, but put it down again waiting for some inspiration.

Nice bench. The pinned tenons should work. Did for hundreds of years for many other craftsmen.

The top may eventually need a screw or two, but only if the tenons in the top become too loose that lifting the bench lifts the top. Should take awhile.

Alternate idea is to make the attachment of the legs a design feature. Drill holes for a couple of walnut dowels in each leg (to match you pinned tenons) and cut the dowel to accept a wedge, like you see in Windsor chairs. This could add some visual interest.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Dave Paine said:


> Alternate idea is to make the attachment of the legs a design feature. Drill holes for a couple of walnut dowels in each leg (to match you pinned tenons) and cut the dowel to accept a wedge, like you see in Windsor chairs. This could add some visual interest.


I like that idea. I think I'll try using only the pinned tenons and fall back on the dowels if needed.


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Bench looks great and so does your band saw. And yes, my wife's jewelry box is getting to the extended project stage.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Finally finished this up. Routed the edges for a nice soft round over. Got the mortices done and cut the wedges out of maple (which was the most handy). Sanded the pieces smooth to 220 and finished everything with Penofin Red Label prior to assembly. That was last weekend so I gave the Penofin a week to cure before moving on. This weekend we were traveling but not before I put everything together. Here she is, a utility stool that can live indoors or out. I designed it to be a bit higher than a standard stool, which I prefer. After assembling and knocking the wedges in it's a nice solid bench. It's outside right now to finish gassing off and curing. Still smells a bit so I'll bring it in once that subsides. This was a good learning project. Got some good time with hand tools. I think I want a mortiser. Can't say I was fond of chopping them. Anyway, glad to have this off my bench after a year! :laughing:


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

i like that. simple


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

NIce bench I like that alot.


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## Broken Bat (Sep 4, 2012)

Very nice. Clean, simple, and functional.


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## Leatherneck (Dec 14, 2008)

I like it .. choice of wood .. joinery .. everything


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## Fishinbo (Jul 23, 2012)

Whoever is not guilty of the overly extended project? I know I am ... That bench is well worth the wait.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Shop Dad said:


> The only concern is that the top is not held on with significant mechanical joinery but I think the hidden tenons may be enough. I'd appreciate input on this point.


Nice work, and good planning. I like the wood...good choice there. Just a suggestion about supporting the top to the legs. You could have made a longwise support under the top that went from leg to leg, and cut on the ends to meet the angle. It would only have to be about 2" or so. It would act like gussets in the corners where the leg meets the top. Or, just make corner gussets. The addition would not likely be seen when on the floor.









 







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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Nice work, and good planning. I like the wood...good choice there. Just a suggestion about supporting the top to the legs. You could have made a longwise support under the top that went from leg to leg, and cut on the ends to meet the angle. It would only have to be about 2" or so. It would act like gussets in the corners where the leg meets the top. Or, just make corner gussets. The addition would not likely be seen when on the floor.


Thanks. So I'm not sure I understand completely. You are suggesting a 2" board running similar to the center support but up under the seat. It would run to the legs but not through. I can see this as another method to reinforce the seat/legs connection if screws were used going into the seat and legs. That would leave the appearance unchanged (unless looking under the seat). Good idea. I'm stashing it away. 

Now I may have that all wrong. One of the things I liked about doing this was that there were no fasteners used, and no glue other than to make the boards wide enough. Maybe you were thinking along those lines too and I'm just not getting it?


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

I like it , its cool.


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