# Drilling holes in the end of 1x2s



## cat1870 (Oct 7, 2010)

Hello All:
I need to drill several hundred holes in the bottom end of some Oak 1 x 2s. These will need to be 3" deep.
I'm trying to come up with a method that will be both quick, easy and accurate. The 1x2s are 44 inches in length. 
Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Gary


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cat1870 said:


> Hello All:
> I need to drill several hundred holes in the bottom end of some Oak 1 x 2s. These will need to be 3" deep.
> I'm trying to come up with a method that will be both quick, easy and accurate. The 1x2s are 44 inches in length.
> Anyone have any suggestions?
> ...


I would make a jig to hold an electric drill horizontally to a bench top so the bit height is aligned as needed.

Then make a straight fence fixed to the bench to line up the oak to be drilled (by pushing the Oak into the bit). Fix to the bench top a stop 3" from the end of the bit (to stop the wood for a 3" deep hole).










 







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## cat1870 (Oct 7, 2010)

That's what I do now but the drill likes to shift position now and then causing off center holes.....
I'd like to figure how to use my drill press.....





















.[/QUOTE]


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cat1870 said:


> That's what I do now but the drill likes to shift position now and then causing off center holes.....
> I'd like to figure how to use my drill press..


Fix the drill so it's secure. Punch a starting spot on the ends. Use a brad point drill bit.










 







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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cat1870 said:


> That's what I do now but the drill likes to shift position now and then causing off center holes.....
> I'd like to figure how to use my drill press.....
> 
> 
> ...


[/QUOTE]

If you had a floor model drill press that would work. But I'm guessing you don't. 
If you don't, do like has been posted above and use a Forstner bit or a saw tooth bit. They track strait


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

cat1870 said:


> That's what I do now but the drill likes to shift position now and then causing off center holes.....
> I'd like to figure how to use my drill press.....



If your drill press is a table top model, like mine, you can drill by moving it to the edge of the bench and move simply the drill press' table out of the way. You can also rotate the press' table parallel to the bit (vertical) and use a vise or clamps to secure the wood to the drill press.

Or you could make a drill guide by drilling a perpendicular hole through a piece of 3/4 - 1" scrap stock. Then use that to ensure your hand drill is drilling squarely to your stock.

Either way you go, you'll do best to use brad tip bits, as has already been suggested.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I did that last wk. I turned the drill press table, so the bit was next to the table.
Clamped a block of wood to the dp table, at the edge of the dp table, and clamped the long work piece, to the block, and drilled the hole.


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## tito5 (Apr 5, 2011)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> If your drill press is a table top model, like mine, you can drill by moving it to the edge of the bench and move simply the drill press' table out of the way. You can also rotate the press' table parallel to the bit (vertical) and use a vise or clamps to secure the wood to the drill press.


this months wood mag. has a tool tip that explains this process.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cat1870 said:


> I'd like to figure how to use my drill press.....


Does your drill press have at least a 3" stroke or more?










 







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## cat1870 (Oct 7, 2010)

Got it figured out...thanks guys. All I had to do was have wife read the owners manual....


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Does your drill press have at least a 3" stroke or more?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If not, drill as deep as you can then reset your table height and continue with the bit already part of the way into the wood.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cat1870 said:


> Got it figured out...thanks guys. All I had to do was have wife read the owners manual....


Maybe your wife should drill the holes. 
:laughing: 
Just messin with ya.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cat1870 said:


> Got it figured out...thanks guys. All I had to do was have wife read the owners manual....


Well, what was it?










 







.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> If not, drill as deep as you can then reset your table height and continue with the bit already part of the way into the wood.


That would work, but he says he has several hundred to do.










 







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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> That would work, but he says he has several hundred to do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh yeah, I guess I didn't read carefully enough. That would work on a few but you'd be ready to kill yourself doing it several hundred times.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I'm curious to know what this is for?


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## cat1870 (Oct 7, 2010)

Holes needed to put 6" spikes into...... of which 3' are inside the 1x2.
For a better expanation............ www.catshootingsticks.com


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cat1870 said:


> Holes needed to put 6" spikes into...... of which 3' are inside the 1x2.
> For a better expanation............ www.catshootingsticks.com


I was just checking out your site. & let me say. Those are cool. Simple but functional. 
Kudos to you.


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## cat1870 (Oct 7, 2010)

Well, what was it?


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t254/cat1870/Thisone.jpg

Just moved the chuck (quill?) over.... 





















.[/QUOTE]


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cat1870 said:


> Well, what was it?
> 
> http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t254/cat1870/Thisone.jpg
> 
> ...


[/QUOTE]

Oh so you do have a floor model. 
After seeing your site and what you do. How did you make all the other ones without problems? Just wondering.


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## cat1870 (Oct 7, 2010)

Very carefully.............very time consuming too.
Needed a faster way.........


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

cat1870 said:


> Very carefully.............very time consuming too.
> Needed a faster way.........


Got it.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

It may benefit you to build a jig that'll hold a hand drill stationary horizontally. Then you'd have a setup of guides that guide and center the wood. That way, rather than having to clamp each piece, center it, plunge the drill... you'd simply set the wood on the guide jig and plunge the WOOD into the bit. 

The jig could be as simple as a U-shaped channel with the drill at one end and a stop block to ensure consistant depth.

Then you could quickly and accurately make consistant holes with no problem. The hour or so building the jig would pay off almost immediately.


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## cat1870 (Oct 7, 2010)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> It may benefit you to build a jig that'll hold a hand drill stationary horizontally. Then you'd have a setup of guides that guide and center the wood. That way, rather than having to clamp each piece, center it, plunge the drill... you'd simply set the wood on the guide jig and plunge the WOOD into the bit.
> 
> The jig could be as simple as a U-shaped channel with the drill at one end and a stop block to ensure consistant depth.
> 
> Then you could quickly and accurately make consistant holes with no problem. The hour or so building the jig would pay off almost immediately.


I tried that. Worked ok but the drill wouldn't stay inplace all the time. Liked to shift in the jig.
Floor mounted drill press is working fine. I did 50 in a short amount of time....


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