# Biesemeyer fence for hitachi c10fl



## Jason00 (Apr 7, 2011)

I am hoping some of you will be able to help me here. I have a hitachi c10fl TS and the stock fence has a lot of play in it. I have looked at it to see if there are any adjustments on it and I don't see any. I have also searched and read some posts and it appears there is no way to adjust it. Will a Biesemeyer fence fit on it? Should I look at a specific model? Is there a comparable fence that is cheaper? Thanks for any help or direction you can provide.
Jason


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

It should be possible to fit a Biese to that saw even if some drilling is required. Cast iron actually drills pretty nicely, so no worries there.

Unless you've found a great deal on a Biese, my concern would be adding a $350-$400 fence to this particular saw....like putting Pirelli's on a Chevette.  There are some good fences that I think might be a better match for your saw...the Delta T2 is ~$150 from Tools-plus.com, and Grizzly has the Shop Fox Aluma Classic, and the Shop Fox "Classic" that's actually very close to the Biese for less $.

...food for thought...


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

What he said...


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Knotscott already said all that needs saying, lol...

~tom


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## Jason00 (Apr 7, 2011)

Thanks! I think the SF Classic looks to be the winner


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## Jason00 (Apr 7, 2011)

So I have been watching CL and a Biesemeyer 30 in fence came up for 150 it appears to have two angle irons the front tube and the fence. I am concerned that 30 inch is too small for the hitachi c10fl that I have. I measured from wing to wing and it is about 41 inches. Also is it going to cost an arm and a leg for the hardware to mount it. 

Thanks for any replies


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Jason00 said:


> So I have been watching CL and a Biesemeyer 30 in fence came up for 150 it appears to have two angle irons the front tube and the fence. I am concerned that 30 inch is too small for the hitachi c10fl that I have. I measured from wing to wing and it is about 41 inches. Also is it going to cost an arm and a leg for the hardware to mount it.
> 
> Thanks for any replies


It would work if you mount the fence all the way to the right... So long as you aren't planning to rip on the left of the fence. Never needed to do that, but seen it done many many times.

Mounting is just a matter of nuts and bolts. You don't even have to change the rear rail you have, the biese rides on the table. That's a good thing because it will support the table all the way across.

You need to add a steel support across the front to make up for the sort front rail.

Good Luck! Oh, and that's a decent price, but you could order a new Delta T2 for about the same price...

~tom


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

30" is the rip capacity....the actual rails will be quite a bit longer than that....maybe even close to 6'. If the C10FL is left tilt, you'll actually be able to slide the front rail tube over farther to the right on the front angle bracket to get extra rip capacity....likely to 40".


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

knotscott said:


> 30" is the rip capacity....the actual rails will be quite a bit longer than that....maybe even close to 6'. If the C10FL is left tilt, you'll actually be able to slide the front rail tube over farther to the right on the front angle bracket to get extra rip capacity....likely to 40".


Yeah that too

~tom


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Forget the Biesemeyer 30" for $150 on CL. It's most likley sold by now. Those are the deals you have to jump on. Far superior to a T2 fence.


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## Jason00 (Apr 7, 2011)

Just picked up the bessie and it is like new with bolts and an owners manual


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Jason00 said:


> Just picked up the bessie and it is like new with bolts and an owners manual


Awsome! Congrats let us know how it goes and show us some picts!

~tom


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## Jason00 (Apr 7, 2011)

Just finished for the night. It didn't come with the alignment tool so I spent two hours measuring and remeasuring before I drilled holes for the attaching bolts. The manual says to set the angle iron to 2-27/32" I am estimating I got it a little long at about 28 or 29/32" I can shim it with a piece if cardboard I'd it rides too low. I will take a pic tomorrow and post it.


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## Jason00 (Apr 7, 2011)

I put the guide rail on and the fence tonight it slides like silk....... On the right side as I get past the blade on the left side it starts to stick and stops. If I lift slightly on the far end of the fence it starts to free up and it slides again.  any pointers out there. I think I will try to shim it up but I first have to get some longer bolts to hold the main rail.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

You can wax the main rail where it contacts the fence glides to help it slide smoother. 

With any Biese fence on a left tilt saw you can slide the front rail tube one bolt hole to the right without moving the angle bracket to gain ~ 10" of rip capacity. You'll have one less bolt holding the fence on but it'll still be plenty strong. You'll need to relocate or replace the measuring tape. Very easy, and nice to have extra capacity if you've got the room.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

You may have to slot the holes on that side and raise your rail a hair... 

But try the wax first like KnottScott said...

~tom


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## Jason00 (Apr 7, 2011)

*Waxed the underside of the fence and replaced two hex heads holding on the angle iron*

Thanks for the tip knotscott that made all the difference the rail slides like a charm now, until I hit the hex head. :blink:
When I picked up the fence from the seller I got a manual and a bag of bolts. Unfortunately, there were no large countersink/sunk(?) bolts so I thought I would be slick and use the large hex heads in the bag. As I found out I was wrong. When you move the rail there is a small amount of racking and that racking when I slide it to the left caused it to hit the hex head. 

Thank the Gods for Ace Hardware! I don't know where I would have gotten the bolts I needed if it wasn't for AH. Home Depot didn't have them, after I looked for the bolts for a little while I then searched for someone to help me. I asked about countersunk bolts he looked at me cross eyed and said "I am not familiar with what you are asking" and called for help...

This is a picture of the new bolts and the angle gauge and micrometer that I used to square everything up to the miter slots. I did a better job than I thought. I bought an angle gauge after I had installed the rail, I was worried they were not parallel with each other, and the top and rail were dead on.
From Woodworking 









Cheap bolts that came with the fence. I broke this one and I wasn't torquing it too tight.
From Woodworking">

Making sure the wings are flush, not gonna happen unless I buy/make new ones. 







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Removed the stock rear rail to install the new one. Little bit of rust.


Rust removed and 2-3 cotes of Top Cote applied. Ready for marking and drilling


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I always enjoy watching someone work their way through a tool upgrade like this....it helps a lot of folks learn! Thanks for keeping us updated. Nice work!


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