# Craftsman Table Saw Blade Hits Table Insert



## Hunter235711 (Jul 30, 2014)

Hi everyone, 

I just joined this forum because I have a question about a used Craftsman model 113 table saw I recently purchased. I have been fixing it up to get it in working condition. 

However, the blade does not appear centered in the table insert (throat plate) and when I try to tilt it above 20 degrees or so it starts to hit the table insert. 

The manual shows only one blade collar, but it came with two blade collars, one on each side of the blade. This makes the blade too close to the right side of the insert. When I remove one of the collars however, it then is too close to the left side of the insert. 

I was thinking about making some circular shims to place on the arbor to center up the blade, but was wondering if there is a better solution. 

Thanks for your help!
Hunter


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Generally...*

There is a built in support washer on the arbor opposite the nut. There is one thick support washer that goes on after the blade and then then nut follows.

There is no need for any additional washers when using that setup. 

A photo of what you have would help if this doesn't make complete sense.


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## Hunter235711 (Jul 30, 2014)

Thanks for your reply, 

Yes, that is exactly what my saw looks like. However, my problem is that when the blade is tightened up against the built in support washer on the arbor opposite the nut, then it is too close to the table insert on that side. It is not at all centered in the slot. 

I wonder if possibly the arbor could have shifted farther into the bearing? Perhaps I should remove the arbor and the bearing and see if there is any problem. 

Thanks, 
Hunter


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Since you bought it used, maybe the insert is the wrong one for your model. You could make your own insert if you are so inclined.

Although I have a different type of saw, the insert that came with the saw has a wide opening so a dado blade could be used. It also clears when the blade is tilted to 45 deg.

I made a zero clearance insert for everyday use. I only use the factory insert for dadoes or angle cuts.

Hope this helps.


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## Hunter235711 (Jul 30, 2014)

Yeah, that could very well be the case. The guy I bought it from gave me two inserts, one with a wide opening for dado blades and one with a narrow opening. Maybe I could just use the dado insert for angle cuts like you suggested. I really hadn't thought of that until you mentioned it. 

Thanks, 
Hunter


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*sounds like the wrong narrow insert*

The narrow insert, if it is correct, should be able to be used for any angle/bevel cuts.

Do not use the dado insert for anything other than dados.

As suggested make your own zero clearance insert for a 90 degree and another one for various angles, you will never regret it.

It's unlikely that the arbor has shifted, but "possible".
Determine the location of the arbor washer by mounting the blade in the nbormal fashion. Mark a on the table on the left side of the blade. See if that line aligns with the left side of the insert you have. If not that, is your issue. A metal insert can be filed slightly wider if it's not all that much. Allow an additional 1/8" to the left of the blade for clearance.


This site has lots of zero clearance insert for many different saws. Be certain of your opening size, before ordering!

http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearance.htm


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> ....It's unlikely that the arbor has shifted, but "possible".......


but quite possible if a previous owner really messed up the alignment of the arbor assembly. page 23 of the linked OM for a ridgid 3612 covers the issue i believe the OP is confronting:

https://www.gardnerinc.com/manuals/pdf/ipl/TTI/Ridgid_benchtop_manuals/table%20saws/TS3612/TS36120_SP6461-1.pdf

it covers assuring the proper clearance between the insert and the blade as part of the blade to miter slot alignment process. and while 113 series saws did not have the eccentric lever the 3612s had, persuading the trunions to assure appropriate alignment and clearance can be done using the technique shown on page 16 of the OM for a ridgid 2412, which is identical to a 113 series saw:

https://www.gardnerinc.com/manuals/pdf/ipl/TTI/Ridgid_benchtop_manuals/table%20saws/TS2412_0/TS24120.pdf

hope this helps.


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## jonathan0908 (Jul 20, 2014)

Craftsman table saws're new with me, but I want to listen all of advices, thanks 

__________________
jet table saw review


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## pweller (Mar 10, 2014)

Like MTStringer suggested, the first thing to do is to verify if your insert is even correct. There's no point in trying to center your blade referencing an incorrect insert.

Those original inserts were usually painted red, made of fairly thick steel, and had a flat spring welded to the back to go under the table. The front has a hole for a screw. If your insert isn't like that, it probably isn't original.

I always assume that the previous owner probably did some hack-work, and that's usually correct. I'd suspect everything at this point, but those throat plates are easy to swap out, so I'd look at that first.


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## jdonhowe (Jul 25, 2014)

> The narrow insert, if it is correct, should be able to be used for any angle/bevel cuts.


I'm by no means an expert on this saw, or saw design in general, but I can see situations where a blade can clear the insert at 90 degrees, yet bind at an angle.

For example, for the insert to work at every angle, the axis of rotation along the trunnions needs to be exactly at the the insert slot. Otherwise, the plane of the blade will move laterally, and bind with the insert slot. I know of at least one saw (mine) that wasn't designed that way.

Second, even if the axis of rotation is at the slot, of the slot is narrow enough (i.e. a true zero clearance) at 90 degrees, when the blade is tilted, say to the right, the teeth would bind against the right edge of the slot on the upper surface, and the left edge underneath. This would be even more apparent with a thicker insert.

For some saws, users have a whole collection of zero clearance inserts, each made (by the user) for a specific angle.

Just my .02 :smile:


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## Hunter235711 (Jul 30, 2014)

*Thanks!*

Thank you all for your help. I think toolguy1000's suggestion was correct. I took the saw all apart because I thought maybe the arbor had somehow shifted into the bearing, however it hadn't. Next I loosened all six mounting screws and moved the trunnions so that there was more clearance between the blade and the insert. This worked, now I can tilt the blade all the way to 45 degrees without it hitting the insert. 

Thanks again!
Hunter


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