# Lacquer or Lacquer Appearance



## kanoa9321 (Jul 14, 2009)

I am planning on making two night stands and then also a TV stand. I would like them to have a white lacquer finish(like you see in the fancy furniture stores). From what I have read actual lacquer can be time consuming because of the need to spray so many layers. Has anyone had first hand experience spraying lacquer that could share their experience. How many layers did you spray? How long between coats? Sanding etc?

Also what are my other options? Is their anything else such as a really high gloss paint that I could use and maybe spray it with a clear coat on top?

Thanks in advance


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Erroneous Info*



kanoa9321 said:


> ....From what I have read actual lacquer can be time consuming because of the need to spray so many layers. Has anyone had first hand experience spraying lacquer that could share their experience. How many layers did you spray? How long between coats? Sanding etc?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance


Lacquer is the least time consuming of any other durable product.
If you buy a good quality lacquer from a good paint store like Sherwin Williams you should only need about 3 of white coats with drying time about 5 to 10 minutes between coats and another 2 coats on clear on top if you want about another 5 minutes between coats and you are done. Generally no sanding is required except for maybe after the first coat and you can do that about 10 minutes after you apply it.
If you have an open grain wood like red oak , for instance, a good vinyl sealer or lacquer sealer should be applied first.

From start to finish, you should be able to completely spray all 3 pieces in less than an hour and a half including clean-of spray area and gun.


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## kanoa9321 (Jul 14, 2009)

oh WOW ! !

I was just trying to research it on the internet, and everyone seemed to complain about the number of coats. 

From what you describe it sounds very do able. I'll take a trip to a local paint store and interrogate the guys there.

I was thinking of making them out of MDF since down the line I won't have to worry about expanding and shrinking. Does MDF sound good for these or would you recommend something else?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I would NOT make any good furniture out of MDF. Why go to all of that work and then only have something made of MDF.

George


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

kanoa9321 said:


> oh WOW ! !
> 
> I was just trying to research it on the internet, and everyone seemed to complain about the number of coats.
> 
> I was thinking of making them out of MDF since down the line I won't have to worry about expanding and shrinking. Does MDF sound good for these or would you recommend something else?


One certain thing about the internet is that old wives tales get perpetuated by the readers and not the doers. There is tons of erroneous info out there in every field of endeavor. One person starts the rumor and the 'readers' repeat it.

For about the last 80 to 90 years, just about every furniture manufacturer used lacquer and ditto for cabinet makers. They would not be using it if it meant more work. Manufacturers, both large and small, are now slowly moving over to a conversion varnish.

As for MDF, if you dont want to worry about expanding and contracting, you had better make sure all exposed surfaces and edges are coated with the lacquer. I personally would use hardwood for the frames and legs and plywood for the tops, however, that is your decision. The advantages of MDF are that it is much easier to work with and your waste will be little to none since all can be glued up. If it is going to be painted the MDF will take paint much better. If you can find a quality lumber yard in your area, look for EXTIRA. It is a waterproof MDF and contains no formaldyhide. It runs about $50/sheet. It can be used outdoors, that's how good it is. 


Tony B


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## kanoa9321 (Jul 14, 2009)

So I just got back from the Sherwin Williams store and the paint cans on the shelf were more helpful than the guys behind the counter. They had no experience with the lacquer and didn't even know what kind of shine it would have.

So do you have a particular Lacquer that you recommend that I could research?

So what wood do you guys recommend? I thought that most lacquered furniture was made from MDF. I added a picture of a tvstand and night stand that will be similar to what I plan on making, incase it helps.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Normally I use colorants in my lacquer and I figured that Sherwin Williams would do the same. Try calling Sherwin Williams Tech Support and see what happens. There is a Sher-Wood White High Build Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer.
Another choice would be Wood Finishers Depot. I started using them lately and they have an excellent Pre-Catalyzed lacquer. In comes in white with all sheens from gloss down to flat. Their Pre-catalyzed lacquer is an excellent product, although I have never used their colored stuff, I know several cabinetmakers that have, with excellent results. Just ask for their Premium Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer - White in whatever sheen you want. If you want a clear coat on top use their Premium Pre-catalyzed Lacquer - Clear.
WoodFinishersDepot.com or call 1-866-883-3768
Also try Mohawk Finishing Products. I havent used them in years but I'm sure they are still good manufacturers.


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## kanoa9321 (Jul 14, 2009)

Tony,

Thanks so much for your help, I will definitely give those you mentioned a try.

Since you seem to have a fair amount of experience with Lacquers what wood do you usually use for something similar to what I am doing?

Thanks again.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*I generally don't 'paint'*

but when I have, I have used both poplar and maple. Both are tight grained with little to no grain lines as we think of and both are also easy to machine and sand. Other folks on here may also have some suggestions.


OOOPS!!!!
I just looked again at the photos. 
I would definately use birch plywood which is very slick and paintable. I would use solid wood for the edges/trim. The wood I would use would be either be maple or poplar and possibly birch. Birch is much harder than the other two so your cutting tools might be the determining factor. Cutting tools in how sharp are your blades and are they of a decent quality. And do you hava a decent sander? If not, stick with the softer maple or poplar.


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