# Do I "NEED" a Bandsaw??



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

I guess I should have asked this question before I started making offers on craigslist for used bandsaws. Now that I am close to choosing from two of them, I am wondering if I really "NEED" one.

Other than resawing, why does one need a bandsaw? That's not meant to be sarcastic. I am a woodworking hobbyist and wondering if I really need one or just want one. I know being able to cut curves is useful but I can sort of do that with a jigsaw too.

What kinds of things do you typically find yourself using it for?

Thanks


----------



## BenBen (Feb 14, 2009)

I use my scroll saw exclusively for curves and such, but I feel more the "need" to get a bandsaw for resawing...so I too myself do wonder what other uses there may be for one.


----------



## Sawduster (Dec 30, 2008)

I use mine a lot, even just for quick cuts. It's a nice quiet smooth running machine. If you're looking at used ones I'd avoid the Craftsman with the tilting head. Mine was/still is a POS. I have a 14" ShopFox now. It's a Jet knockoff but (don't tell Judy) I wish I had held out for a used but bigger one.

Oh, and to call that Crafstman a two speed is a stretch. I had to put mine on the bench and spend the better part of an hour changing speeds. I couldn't stand on my head that long.


----------



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

I am currently looking at a used Grizzly that i can get along with a Delta Shopmaster 16 drill press for 250 total for both. That seems to be a good deal from what I have read but now i am wondering....do I really "NEED" them or are they just going to sit and collect dust......


----------



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

BenBen said:


> I use my scroll saw exclusively for curves and such, but I feel more the "need" to get a bandsaw for resawing...so I too myself do wonder what other uses there may be for one.


What is the max thickness/size of wood that you typically cut on your scroll saw? i was under the perhaps mistaken impression that a scroll saw was for more intricate work...but if it will handle larger stock maybe that's a better way to go with my limited budget and space....


----------



## Sawduster (Dec 30, 2008)

I predict you'll love them both. That's assuming they're in good shape. Like me, you don't need another project.


----------



## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*What I use it for*



Tom5151 said:


> Other than resawing, why does one need a bandsaw? ...... I know being able to cut curves is useful but I can sort of do that with a jigsaw too.
> What kinds of things do you typically find yourself using it for? quote)
> 
> I dont use my band saw all that often, but when I do, I need it.
> ...


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Collect Dust? Some of us collect tools!*



Tom5151 said:


> I am currently looking at a used Grizzly that i can get along with a Delta Shopmaster 16 drill press for 250 total for both. That seems to be a good deal from what I have read but now i am wondering....do I really "NEED" them or are they just going to sit and collect dust......


I think that collecting dust is the main point:laughing:...no dust, no work, no projects, in reverse order! I have a large dust collection and once in a while, not often enough, I go thru it and throw out dust I have made recently and almost all of the "old" dust.:yes:
Seriously, I have a dedicated resaw bandsaw, with a 3/4" wide blade that I undedicate (remove the fence and use it for quick cut-offs) and ripping smaller pieces of wood that would be too dangerous on a TS. By all means get one, they are so versatile. The Craftsman 10" for $140 on sale is handy for small radius curves. I got it as a beginner saw for my son age 11. It will still cut a finger off in a heartbeat, but he uses it proudly. The bandsaw with various width blades can do everything from resawing 1/16 thin stock to cutting tenons safely. Great tool and your price for the 2 tools is reasonable. JMHO. Bill:cool2:


----------



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Thanks everyone....

this is helping A LOT......

another newbie question........do you use a fence and miter guage typically or do you freehand cuts? For example recently I needed to cut 4 notches on the 4 courners of a lower shelf on a table to fit around the 4 legs. I am thinking a BS would have been perfect for this but would you have freehanded this or used it with some type of fence or edge guide typically?


----------



## b00kemdano (Feb 10, 2009)

I'm also searching for a good bandsaw (under $800 ). So far, I've found that besides resawing (my main interest), they are handy for cutting tenons, inside corners, and curvy stuff.

I currently have 2 10" bandsaws. A Ryobi that I've had for some time (hate it), and a Craftsman (that might actually be 9") that I recently inherited. I think the little Craftsman band saw would be nice for small projects or kids' stuff (like Woodnthings said). Unfortunately for me, neither of them will do the resawing that I want to do.

Maybe if I duct tape them together just right.... :blink:


----------



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

b00kemdano said:


> I'm also searching for a good bandsaw (under $800 ). So far, I've found that besides resawing (my main interest), they are handy for cutting tenons, inside corners, and curvy stuff.
> 
> I currently have 2 10" bandsaws. A Ryobi that I've had for some time (hate it), and a Craftsman (that might actually be 9") that I recently inherited. I think the little Craftsman band saw would be nice for small projects or kids' stuff (like Woodnthings said). Unfortunately for me, neither of them will do the resawing that I want to do.
> 
> Maybe if I duct tape them together just right.... :blink:


for things like tenons and inside corners where you need nice straight edges do you use an edge guide or fence? Is any bandsaw capable of using such a fence or guide to make straight cuts?


----------



## b00kemdano (Feb 10, 2009)

For the small amount of work that I have done on my little band saws, I usually clamp a straight piece of scrap to the table as a fence. 

For some reason, I have it stuck in my head that a bandsaw should be used freehand. However, for resawing and making square cuts, you'd really want to use a fence or, if your saw's table is equipped with the slot for it, a miter guage.

Unless, of course, you have a very finely calibrated eyeball handy. :bangin:


----------



## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Tom,
I use my bandsaw for resawing occasionally. But I have found myself more and more making little cuts here and there on it. I use my miter gauge from my table saw a lot in cutting off blanks for the lathe and wanting a decent cut on the ends. I use it in place of the miter box where I need to cut a smaller piece of wood to size for jigs and project parts. I use it to rip smaller pieces when I don't feel like firing up the table saw. I made a simple jig for cutting my peppermill blank edges off at a 45degree angle, like a stop sign shape before putting them on the lathe. I use it for cutting square bowl blanks round. The longer you have it, the more uses you will find for it.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

firehawkmph said:


> Tom,
> I use my bandsaw for resawing occasionally. But I have found myself more and more making little cuts here and there on it. I use my miter gauge from my table saw a lot in cutting off blanks for the lathe and wanting a decent cut on the ends. I use it in place of the miter box where I need to cut a smaller piece of wood to size for jigs and project parts. I use it to rip smaller pieces when I don't feel like firing up the table saw. I made a simple jig for cutting my peppermill blank edges off at a 45degree angle, like a stop sign shape before putting them on the lathe. I use it for cutting square bowl blanks round. The longer you have it, the more uses you will find for it.
> Mike Hawkins


wow...okay thanks Mike...I think i am begining to see the light here a little bit.......I think i can justify 200 for a used BS in good shape...the worst that can happen is i dont use like i think and i can put it back on CL.......


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

If I did not have the Eglin Air Force Base Wood Hobby shop available I would NEED a band saw. I am currently down to the final staining stage of a rocker for one of my granddaughters. If I did not have a bandsaw available I would not be able to make this chair.

That aside, up until the last couple of years when I have been making furniture for grand children I have not needed a band saw. 

George


----------



## mike65072 (Apr 13, 2008)

I use my 14" Jet BS all the time. I have a Kreg fence and have used it for accurate cutting on many projects. I make a lot of smaller items (picture frames, boxes, toys etc) and the bandsaw is perfect for those types of things. Many times I use the bandsaw rather than the tablesaw just because it's quicker (the top of my TS tends to collect stuff :smile: and by the time I could have cleaned it off, I've got the boards cut on the bandsaw). I couldn't live without my bandsaw...Oh yea, I resaw with it too. Good luck, Mike


----------



## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

You covered curves, and resawing. But the curves you talked about were in thinner stock. I have been experimenting with band saw boxes recently, and you simply cannot do that with a jig saw... Come to think of it, depending on how big the band saw box is, you wouldn't be able to do it with a smaller band saw either...

No you don't "need" a band saw. a large hacksaw will do just as nicely. Now the question is, do you want a band saw for what it will do for you?


----------



## Chiefwoodworker (Jul 17, 2008)

If I were starting over I would probably buy a good band saw and sliding compound miter saw before a table saw. In addition to re-sawing, you can cut curves that you can't on a jig saw, and you can rip more quickly and easily than a table saw (save perhaps plywood sheets which are large). I do most of my ripping on the band saw, and crosscutting on the miter saw. I am not saying you don't want a table saw, but a high quality band saw and miter saw I believe are more useful, and safer.


----------



## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Sawduster said:


> I use mine a lot, even just for quick cuts. It's a nice quiet smooth running machine. If you're looking at used ones I'd avoid the Craftsman with the tilting head. Mine was/still is a POS. I have a 14" ShopFox now. It's a Jet knockoff but (don't tell Judy) I wish I had held out for a used but bigger one.
> 
> Oh, and to call that Crafstman a two speed is a stretch. I had to put mine on the bench and spend the better part of an hour changing speeds. I couldn't stand on my head that long.


 
I have the 14" Craftsman Professional and it is great. I bought this one after I think WOOD Magazine rated it either top tool or Best Value. I know it beat out allot of the big names including some euro models. 

As for what else I use it for; quick cuts, curves I don't do much re-sawing but I use it for other then wood materials plastic, metal, Foam and High density Foam Board. 

So even if it is a want and not a need if you get a good deal on one you can and will find a use for it. I have the same question about the radial arm saw. Especially with the big sliding compound miter saws they have today. I lost my old Dewalt Radial arm saw in Katrina. I didn't want to spend 2000.00 for a new Delta or Jet so I got a Craftsman Professional. good thing I got the extended warranty on it not because it broke but because I have yet to open the box and it's like 2 years old. I am in the process of setting it up in the next week or two though.


----------



## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

I think you have the picture but I couldn't live without my bandsaw. I use it all the time. Making the kayaks I couldn't be without it. I have some inside cuts I have to make with a jigsaw. I have a Bosch which is a fine jigsaw. But I would rather use the bandsaw any day! I get much better results with it.

It is one of those tools that in a few months you will wonder how you ever got along without it. Just not comparison to the jig saw!

And I use the fence and miter gauge a lot too.


----------



## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Chiefwoodworker said:


> If I were starting over I would probably buy a good band saw and sliding compound miter saw before a table saw. In addition to re-sawing, you can cut curves that you can't on a jig saw, and you can rip more quickly and easily than a table saw (save perhaps plywood sheets which are large). I do most of my ripping on the band saw, and crosscutting on the miter saw. I am not saying you don't want a table saw, but a high quality band saw and miter saw I believe are more useful, and safer.


I don't know about anyone else but I would take a good table saw over any tool in the shop. A good and properly set up table saw is the back bone of a wood shop. Radial arm saws are probably the most dangerous tools on the market. That was the main reason Dewalt stopped making them, the liability especially when you start using the many attachments that are available. The other reason is that they could make more money selling many different tools to do the same work. Well thats my 2 cents on the matter.


----------



## mpm1696 (Jan 22, 2008)

You'll realize you wished you had a band saw when you need some 1/2 thick stock while you only have 4/4 or 3/4! (That's what happened to me)
What would you do; well you could resaw it on your table saw (risky and dangerous business), or wasting it all in shavings, while passing it trough a thickness planer (whole lot of waste and needless wear on your planer knives). 

A Band saw "excelles", at resawing and a lot more safer than your table saw (kick back). It also excelles at cutting all types of curves, better than the most expensive jig saw.

And with a couple of refinements on your band saw, it can cut without making dust (if at all) as much as any table saw. (admit it, you know what I mean)


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Fence and Mitre gage Used on bandsaw?*

Hey Tom, by all means you can use the fence and miter gage. :smile:The fence is the only way to resaw. set it, forget it start sawing! You must start with a sharp blade with no drift to use a fence. To compensate for drift is slightly more complicated and this applies to a miter gage as well as a fence.... a bandsaw blade after some use may drift, even if all the blade guides are properly adjusted and the proper tension is applied to the blade....not cut in a line perpendicular to the side of the blade or in other words not at right angles to the front edge of the table. That means one side of the blade's teeth are cutting more effectively than the other, or in other words those teeth are dull due to repeated cutting in the opposite direction, etc. Sometimes just a touch with a fine stone will take enough set off the teeth to make it cut true,but it won't be as "sharp" as it once was..like most of us older guys.:laughing: I can resaw down to 1/16th thin, but it takes a sharp blade and gentle feed pressure. There are other "tricks" to use such as stop blocks to permit stopping the shoulder of a tenon etc.
My advice to you, Bill
PS as far as the post by rrbrown "radial saws are the most dangerous tools on the market".... Yes and No. I've had a radial sa wfor years, actaully 2 of them, and when used to crosscut primarily are very safe, because a long piece of stock is placed against the back fence and supported along it's length, whereas trying to crosscut the same piece on a table saw is a project unto itself. That's why the mitre saw or chop saw came about, lot's of building trades mostly need to cross cut and miter mouldings trim and the like. Back to the radial saw, it can be set-up to rip safely, but it's main objection is that it's always trying to lift the work off the table beacuse of the rotation of the blade. You MUST rotate the blade guard around so that it becomes a hold down for the work piece, when ripping. When using my radial on the job site I ran a 2"x12"x 16' footer for the table and a 1"x3"x 16 footer back stop/fence. I could rip ply or crosscut 2x all day long, by myself and safely. Those goofy attachments are a hazard, too much cutter is exposed! Just my opinion, however. Bill


----------



## rusty baker (Jun 14, 2008)

I have a 14 inch Craftsman 2- speed(yeah right) and a Grizzly 12 inch variable speed. The grizzly is a tabletop model and great, but they quit selling it. I make a lot of rocking chairs and the Grizzly is easier to use.


----------



## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

All I can add to the advise already given is that I'd be lost without my little Ryobi 9" BS. I can not resaw large stock using it, but I can resaw down to 1/16" thickness on already thin stock, and make cuts on pieces that are far too small for my wannabe TS. This little BS was the first piece I bought many years ago and have never regretted the purchase.


----------



## trash collector (Dec 31, 2008)

I have the same bandsaw RRBROWN has, have had it for several years and don't what I would do w/out it. I about use it daily you can even cut light gage aluminum. If at all possible do not buy a used one it may turn into a fixer up project.
TC


----------



## windstorm (Dec 21, 2008)

Tom, like you, I don't own a bandsaw, but resawing would be a nice option & I don't trust myself to do it on the TS. I also have a small 10' x 20' shop, so space is also a consideration. I would, however, like to learn how to make chairs & watching videos of the great Sam Maloof, the bandsaw is darn near the only power tool he uses & he's an artist with the thing. He shapes walnut chair arms like they're made of butter. But that can be deceptive, because he's been using a bandsaw for over 50 years. I'm also leery of a machine that runs too quietly, especially when there seems to be more careless bandsaw accidents than your average power tool. Still, I'm sure I'll break down & buy one some day.


----------



## Sawduster (Dec 30, 2008)

I recently read that a band saw is high on the list of dangerous shop tools. I think it's because they are so quiet and smooth running, people tend to get a little too relaxed using them. A table saw, thickness planer, jointer, they scream at you constantly to keep back or get bitten.


----------



## Ohio Ron (Dec 22, 2007)

Need a bandsaw! You bet your boots you do. Not just resawing, but so many other cuts that other saws just can't do. If you have not seen my web site, take a look. I could have never made the most of them without my bandsaw. It is just an old Craftsman saw and I bought it at a garage sale for 65$. Love it.


----------



## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

Sawduster said:


> I recently read that a band saw is high on the list of dangerous shop tools.


It's the only power tool that has ever nicked me. Of course it was my fault, not the saws. And that is the case 99% of time. But put a nice mark right on the tip of my finger and scared some sense into me too!!

And I have one of the HIGHLY DANGEROUS :icon_rolleyes: DeWalt RAS that I use all the time and I still have all my fingers, toes, hands and arms! :laughing:


----------



## gharvey (Jan 5, 2009)

I guess I'm not normal, (or so the wife tells me), but I have 3 band saws. I have a Craftsman 14" with a 1/4 blade, a Jet with a 3tpi 1/2 blade with riser for resawing and a new Steel City with granite top that is the best. They all have their purpose for doing different size radius turns and long curves. Once you get familiar with it you can do alot of sawing more safely than on the table saw, even doing dovetails. Most of the time I freehand, as bandsaws have "drift" to them. A fence should not really be a straight edge, but a pivot point at the blade to track your cut. At the prices you quote, I would get them. You may need to track the wheels or replace a couple bearings, but that is not hard to do. The most important thing is to get a good blade. I use Timberwolfe.


----------



## ScottyB (Mar 1, 2009)

I also have a bandsaw and can't imagine not having one. As I have had no real training I find that I get quite a bit of drift and so I work around that by starting by making a thinner template of what I am making. Once I get the template the way I want I'll use the bandsaw to do the rough outline and then use a trim bit on the router table to clean it up. I was really impressed with the results I got with this method and it may be common sense, but I had to learn it on my own with trial and error.


----------



## wdkits1 (Jan 16, 2009)

I've had my Delta 14" for 15 years and have to say that it is the backbone of my shop.I added a 1.5hp motor [came with1/2hp] ,6" riser block [12 resaw capacity], added a 30" homemade outfeed table and made numerous jigs for different applications[tenoning.resaw,circle cutting,rounding stock for pre-lathe turning and tapering just to name a few.I don't have a table saw and seldom have a need for one[occasional cuts for sheet goods being the exception.] A well adjusted and tuned BS saves $ just because of the thin kerf and low cost of the blades that I use[Industrial 4tpi x3/4x 105"-- $10 ea].
Could'nt work without it.










This photo shows a jig that I made to help when I resaw my stock. It is self adjusting and spring loaded and helps to keep the stock tight to the fence. Helps to make nice uniform cuts


----------



## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Do you need a bandsaw? Of course you do! And a router table, and a joiner and bench sander and spindle sander and a cabinet saw and a drill press and a...


----------

