# Grand daughter's Toy Box



## Millwright (Aug 2, 2009)

Here's a toy box bench variation from a plan I found. I've been working on for a few weeks for my soon to be one year Grand daughter Madeline.

It took a while, because I had to build a 24" long 1/2" Box Joint Jig (see *Diy 24" box joint jig* in Joinery Forum) and figure out how to use it.

It's 36" x 20" with the box section 18" tall and it's made from Aspen (won't do that again...too soft, but has nice saw dust). Held together with joinery and animal hide glue. 

I plan on finishing it with a Creme colored Milk Paint with a semi-gloss clear top coat.

Thanks for viewing.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Nice job on the toy chest Millwright,
I am sure Madeline will like it. Post some pics when you finish it.
Mike Hawkins


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

The toy box looks great. I am want to try some box joints but I don't think I will tackle something that big yet.
Tom


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## The Everyman Show (Jul 10, 2009)

Millwright great job on the box and it looks like great execution of the joints. I really like the design, but I have one question: Does the entire top section of the box lift up or is there a door/lid that lifts up for access inside? I've never worked with Aspen, but if I ever do I will heed your comments based on your experience with it, good information. Please post pics when it is complete and all the finish applied.


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## Millwright (Aug 2, 2009)

The bench section/lid will be entirely hinged to the box section using a piano hinge. I was considering a partial wrap piano hinge (see photo). After I do the lid weight/size calculations, I'll attach the correct approved toy box lid supports which will balance lid weight and stay open in any position (see photo).

I recently researched toy boxes and learned many deaths and injuries have occured when unproperly supported toy box lids have slammed down on kid's heads, necks and hands. *People...if you make a toy box, please use the safety lid supports that are approved by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission.*

The reson I chose to use Apsen is because it does not splinter and would be safe for little hands. The wood becomes fuzzy when it seperates. I think its too soft for regular furniture but perfect for a kid.


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

*Millwrite*

What tool do you use for such nice box jointing??I have a porter cable box joint jig and they dont come out that good!Great job. Itchy


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## red (Sep 30, 2008)

Beautiful job. Post a pic when the milk paint is done.

Red


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Good job
I found some "super sliders" little round plastic buttons, that I fit into the feet with a 1" counterbore they really do slide easy.
I just wish that I had the hardware on hand before building as the piano hinge could have been used to size the width of lid to allow a full fit. and I had to put risers to get the lid supports to attach lid.


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## Millwright (Aug 2, 2009)

While my project isn't on the same level of craftsmanship as _*The Everyman Show's Apothecary Cabinet*_, I'm just as proud. Today I ordered the lid supports and piano hinge from Rockler.

The lid/bench section of the toy box weighs 15 pounds. Using their torque formula for inch pound conversion of the weight and lid depth, I had to order two lid supports. The right side one handles 95-125 inch pounds and the left one handles 35-40 inch pounds. In combination, they will handle/balance the 150 inch pound lid.

_*Itchy Brother*_ was wonderig about my jointing setup. Here's a pic of the 1/2" box joint jig I made. The red slotted jig is 1/2" aluminum with 5/8" wide slots on 1" centers. The jig can handle up to 24" wide boards. I machined it on a Bridgeporrt Mill. I couldn't justify spending $500 on a Porter Cable 24" jig.

Attached is the original drawing I found on the Internet. I took the liberty to revise it as I suited.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Millwright, I'm curious about the calculations you did for the lid. Did you consider the lid plus the weight of someone leaning on it? I don't think it will be a big deal either way, but I'd be interested to hear how you decided on a weight if you did use that as part of your calculations.


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## Millwright (Aug 2, 2009)

*FrankP*...

To size the support or supports to the application, the torque exerted by the lid (in inch-pounds) must be calculated using the *actual *depth (D) of the lid front-to-back, from hinge side to the opposing side; and the *actual *weight (W) of the lid: Torque = (D * W) / 2


A lid 20 inches deep and weighing 5 pounds exerts a torque of (20 * 5 ) / 2 = 50 inch-lbs; this can be countered by selecting a single support in the 45-55 in-lb range from the table above. A support from the 35-40 in-lb range would not hold the lid up; and a support from the 95-125 in-lb range would not allow the lid to close properly – if it closed at all, it would tend to keep popping up when released. ​


If necessary, multiple supports can be combined to provide the proper range of counter-torque. If the 20 inch deep lid in the example above weighed 15 pounds instead of 5 pounds, it would exert 150 inch-pounds of torque. A support from the 35-40 in-lb range, combined with one from the 95-125 inlb range, will provide a combined counter-torque of 130-165 in-lb; this combination will properly counter the 150 in-lb exerted by the lid.​

_information taken from Rockler's Toy Box Lid Support Data Sheet_​


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