# Unisaw restoration thread



## ftk (May 9, 2012)

I recently picked up a Rockwell Unisaw off of craigslist for $125. It needs some work to get it back on it's feet -- I have to remove laminate from the cast iron top, get all the rust off the top, and...well get it running again. The saw hadn't been used in several years and when the owner tried to show it to me it wouldn't start, he had only 110 volt connected. he hooked it up to 220 later in the day after I had left, and saw started, but in the end he burned out what he called an electronic start switch. the part he pointed at is I believe the transformer.

Anyway, my goal is to get this puppy in good working order, and I figured why not document the journey in a thread -- oh and draw on y'alls tons of experience :yes:

To start with here are the before pictures.

After almost throwing out everybody's backs getting the saw on a dolly and into the truck, it finally arrived in my garage:










The fence that is on this saw seems like a really solid piece. Definitely isn't the stock fence for this saw.










Lots of laminate to remove and rust to clean up on the top:










Rockwell. Now I believe this is basically the same saw as the Delta Unisaws?


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Motor looks to be in good shape:










As does the belt and everything else inside the cabinet:










Here is the wiring on the back. The guy pointed to the top right piece as the broken one, marked Micron. Reading up on it this appears to be the transformer.










Wiring diagram










Now unfortunately I am not an electrician, so I was wondering if you guys can help me diagnose this a bit. I got power to the saw, and had power throughout the box. Pushing the start button does nothing at all. I am getting 240V in so I think the 230V selection on the transformer is fine. I am getting power throughout the whole box, and everything appears to be wired correctly referencing the diagram.

Looked up the transformer and it appears to be around $250 to replace, so before I just go ahead an order one I wonder if there is a way to check whether this part is actually the problem? Is there a way to prove whether the part is good/bad?

Found the manual for the starter but it didn't really help me all that much. Any ideas?

I will attack the laminate with lacquer thinner I think, and scrap the table extension (it didn't age well).


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

*Look forward to the pics*

This should be an interesting thread.

There are several "Rockwell" company names which made tools, one of which became Delta.

VintageMachinery.org is your friend.

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=698

If I recall this was a 5HP unit. This puppy should never have been attempted to run on 110V. Far too many amps. Not a surprise if something burned out.

I hope you can replace whatever was overheated.

Good luck getting the laminate removed.

Once removed, then consider Boeshield Rust Free to remove the rust.

Other threads talk about Evaporust, which appears to work well, but requires steeping the parts in a bath of Evaporust. Not easy for the table top, but may work for other parts.

The Jet fence is likely an early version of what became their "Exacta" fence, which was a Biesemeyer clone.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*big restore project*

First thing I'd do is remove the rails and separate the table from the base. Then if you have to use any of the stronger chemicals they won't drip down on the motor and carriage. Also a trip to a machine shop for a Blanchard or surface grind might be in order.
It should be just fine after a lot of work! Good Luck :thumbsup: bill

BTW a media blaster might save a lot of work. They won't use sand as it's too abrasive. Walnuts shells or some such thing...I donno?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I had a few of those, and most were 3HP. It may be just the starter switch. It likely has a magnetic starter. For removing the laminate, first try using just a heat gun and a putty spatula. Using lacquer thinner works, but will make a mess.








 







.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I may get some flack for this...*

When my mag switch went out on my18" Min Max bandsaw, I just replaced it with a manual 2 pole 30 Amp 220 V rated on/off switch. The mag switch is a safety device as much as it is a switch so "if" there is a power failure and then it returns, it requires a manual restart of the tool. The machines used in industrial shop must have this feature, home shops not required. Of course if you are doing a bottom up restore and want it back to factory standards then you'll need the proper parts if they are required.

One of these will work, either manual or magnetic reset:
http://www.grizzly.com/search/search.aspx?q=switch%20220V&cachebuster=1529808143528614.8

I like this one because of the large OFF paddle and I would mount it so a hip or thigh bump would turn the machine off.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

I followed the purchase thread and look forward to seeing the progress in this restore thread. Lets see lots of pictures.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

That looks like the real deal there ftk. You should be very happy with that once the restore is done. Going through this will give you a new appreciation for the saw and you'll feel like it really is yours. I'd try the heat gun first for the laminate. I have found a ScotchBrite pad on a random orbital sander with WD-40 is pretty good at getting rid of rust. If you need to get more aggressive you can use wet/dry sandpaper for the same. Evaporust is great for nuts, bolts, handles etc. Good luck. Look forward to seeing you breathe new life into this guy.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Regardless of the condition of the saw that was a good score for $125.00. Anything it is ailing with is fixable. It would help if you had a electrical volt meter to pinpoint where the short is. If you have 220V coming into the saw there should be 220V coming out of the switch to the motor. Sometimes you can have 220V going into the switch and only 110V coming out or none at all. If you just want to find out if the motor is in working order you can put the motor on a cord and just plug the motor in bypassing the switch altogether. If it is the switch you can get a 220V motor switch at any electrical supply. The magnetic starter is a safety thing which is good for a factory buy not necessary for home use. What is does is in a factory setting if there is a power failure someone might walk off leaving the saw on and someone else might sit on the saw and wait for the power to come back on and get a bad surprise. The magnetic starter would prevent the saw from coming back on until someone restarted it.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Someone else mentioned it, OWWM is your freind. There are guys over there that have been through all this , some many times. This will be interesting to follow.


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## Scot H (Jun 2, 2012)

It may not be the transformer, there's a good chance it is bad contacts on the main relay ( the big coil to the left of the xformer) or the aux contactor. 
To check this, plug it in and check if you have voltage on one side of of the main relay (the magnetic switch).
If there is 220v there the xformer is is at least working in a no load condition. Next, push the start button, you should hear a noticeable "clunk" when the mag switch pulls in. If the mag switch pulls in, check voltage on the output side, it should be 220v, if you don't get good voltage readings replace the contacts on the mag switch ( less than $20).
If it doesn't pull in then it is most likely the aux contactor ( the small piece directly below the mag switch).

The contacts in the mag switch are usually the culprit here.

I just looked at your schematic again, you have an overload relay and a heater, either one of those will prevent it from working. Bad contacts will burn up the heater and trying to run it on 120v will burn out the overload.

Hope this helps


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

You've really got your work cut out for you there. Looking forward to seeing this baby up and working.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Thanks for all the helpful comments so far!

After working through most of my honey-do list, I can finally spend some time with the saw. I have been doing testing on the electrical components. When I wired the motor directly to the power feeds the saw kicked right on and I let it run for a couple of minutes -- very smooth :thumbsup:

After checking voltages across all the different connections, I believe that the main relay Scot H mentioned may be the culprit. I have 110V at each terminal of the coil (marked M in the diagram). Pushing the power button or any other action does not produce any movement and no "clunk". Do I understand it right that pushing the start button should move a part inside of the main relay to make contact between each side of the three feeds (L1, L2, and starter) going through the relay? If so I am thinking I could manually bridge each of these and pushing the start button should start the saw at that point. Or is that just a sure-fire way to get electrocuted?


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Found the part that is supposed to move and "clunk"...If I have power to the saw and push the piece up with a screw driver, the saw kicks on. So I was thinking that maybe the power switch up front is bad, but closing the circuit with a jumper does not turn the saw on. The overload switch seems ok as well (at least I thats what the multimeter says).

I guess that points at the magnetic switch as the culprit?


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

So I managed to tip the whole darn thing over while trying to remove the fence. I think the dolly wheel caught on one of the straps and there she went 

At least it went away from me, and nothing appears to be damaged, the fence rails still look true. I was not able to stand it back up -- I can't believe how massive this thing really is. Gave me a whole new appreciation for it! Supported the body with scrap 2x4 and unbolted the top. Stood up the cabinet, everything fine in there. Table is fine as well -- all in all I was pretty lucky -- I didn't get hurt, saw didn't get hurt, and, most importantly, it happened to me and not my 3 year old while playing in the garage :sweatdrop:


Anyway, this is a massive motor in there:











Borrowed my neighbor's heat gun and went to work on the first part of the top, went pretty well. Most of the glue came off with a razor.









Almost all of the rest came off with some WD40 and elbow grease. I think the rest can wait till sanding...









One down, two to go!


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Glad everybody is safe. I'd get that blade off while you're working on it. Top looks like it's in good shape under there.


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## Scot H (Jun 2, 2012)

Looks like you got a good start on the trouble shooting. The next step is to see if you are getting "control" power from the switch to the main relay. You will have to trace the wire from the switch to the main relay and see if you are getting voltage from it to the main coil. BTW, did you check the fuse? There should be a fuse in the start PB circuit .


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

It looks like the laminate was put on with contact cement. I believe you will have a lot of trouble with the cement gumming up the sandpaper to sand it off. I believe I would use lacquer thinner and wash it off first and just sand it to get the surface rust off and polish the top.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Scot H said:


> Looks like you got a good start on the trouble shooting. The next step is to see if you are getting "control" power from the switch to the main relay. You will have to trace the wire from the switch to the main relay and see if you are getting voltage from it to the main coil. BTW, did you check the fuse? There should be a fuse in the start PB circuit .


I will check the control power tonight. The fuse looks ok to me, and I get a resistance reading -- I assume if it was blown I wouldn't be able to get that.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

The fuse is ok, and I am getting power at both the start and the stop control sides of the power switch. I also get current running through the bottom portion of the overload/heater (I think the bottom is the heater), and when I manually push the magnet into the main relay I get current running just fine through the overload and the motor starts (I believe the metal spring is the overload -- or do I have the two reversed?). 

So it looks like everything is fine except that the magnet doesn't want to pull into position when the start button is pressed. Manually jumping the starter circuit didn't pull the magnet either.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

wouldn't that tell you the circuit that energizes the magnet is not getting a connection when the start switch is pushed? :blink: 
That should be just a momentary connection then the relay is energized for the run condition. 
For a non-electrician I admire your persistence and you seem to be making progress. :thumbsup: bill


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> wouldn't that tell you the circuit that energizes the magnet is not getting a connection when the start switch is pushed? :blink:
> That should be just a momentary connection then the relay is energized for the run condition.
> For a non-electrician I admire your persistence and you seem to be making progress. :thumbsup: bill


Yeah that definitely makes sense. I tell ya, every time I think I got this thing figured out something new pops up. 

So the circuit that energizes the magnet does get a connection, I can test it for continuity (terminal 3 to terminal 2) and it only gets a connection if the start button is pressed. At that point I believe the magnet should be pulled in, because we have a circuit from terminal 3 -> magnet switch -> overload -> transformer x2 -> fuse -> x1 -> terminal 1. The magnet pulling in then connects terminal 2 via the magnet switch and overload etc to terminal1, and we are running until we lose power and the magnet drops down or the stop button interrupts the connection between terminal 1 and 2.

So if all those circuits test fine for continuity, and the fuse checks out, then that tells me that the electromagnet doesn't work since the circuits it depends on appear to be fine.

Can somebody please check my homework? :smile:


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## Scot H (Jun 2, 2012)

OK, you are getting close...
You say you are getting power to the bottom of the over load, how about to the top ?
All the control power (power from the push button) does is energize the coil on the main relay allowing it to pull in.

So you are down to either a bad overload or the coil on the main relay. More often than not, it's the overload that's bad. I can't tell from the pic if the coil on the relay is replaceable most are but some are not.

The last voltage check needed is to make sure you are getting voltage to the coil on the relay.

If not, it will be a bad over load (really cheap). If you are, then the coil is bad, probably about $20 if replaceable. If it is not replaceable, you'll have to replace the relay, it should be around $50 at your local electrical supplier. If you know an A/C man, he probably has some good used ones laying around, just make sure the coil is 120v.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Scot H said:


> OK, you are getting close...
> You say you are getting power to the bottom of the over load, how about to the top ?
> All the control power (power from the push button) does is energize the coil on the main relay allowing it to pull in.
> 
> ...


I get power to the top of the overload as soon as the magnet is pulled in. Now I think the coil is getting voltage just fine -- at least the the contacts on each side of it do, they have a constant 110V on each. Or is there a spot other than the contacts to check for the coil?


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## Scot H (Jun 2, 2012)

The coil is 120v only, not 220v. I think you are checking the main contacts which is the 220v side of the relay. 
The coil gets energized separately from the relay contacts, when it gets energized it pulls in the main contact. 
Where you are at now is that you have proven the following;

1. You have proven that the 220v side is good, put simply, the motor runs when you manually push in the main relay . This is very good because that's the very expensive side of the electrical.

2. You are getting 120v through the start PB to the over load. But are you sure you are reading 120v THROUGH the overload.

We are down to just two components, the over load and the coil on the main relay. 

All that is left is to either prove or disprove the coil is getting 120v. If it is getting 120v, then it is bad. If it is not getting 120v, then the overload is shot.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Scot H said:


> The coil is 120v only, not 220v. I think you are checking the main contacts which is the 220v side of the relay.
> The coil gets energized separately from the relay contacts, when it gets energized it pulls in the main contact.
> Where you are at now is that you have proven the following;
> 
> ...



First of all thank you for all your replies and patience with a newbie like me. Question: How can I be sure that I am reading 120V _through_ the overload? What I have been doing is touch one probe of my multimeter to a contact on the overload, and the other probe to the ground, and I get a 120V reading. Same thing on the other contact on the overload. Is that the correct way?

In regards to the coil, I believe it is the piece that is on the very top of the relay -- it has two contacts, one that connects to the overload (on the right) and the other on the left that connects with a short jumper to the relay below, and via that to terminal 3 of the starter circuit. Or am I targeting the wrong component? If this is the coil, I do get a 120V reading (using the same method as above) on either side of the coil.


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## Scot H (Jun 2, 2012)

Ok, I've been flipping back and forth to your pic of the schematic and the wiring and I saw something that doesn't look right.

One thing is I was looking at it one way and remembering it another, the brain cells just ain't what they used to be!

Your overload is fine. But the wiring may not be. That second wire coming off the overload doesn't look right. I have a unisaw that I restored a couple off years ago about two miles from my house. I'm going to go over and take a look at it.

In the mean time, check and see where the second wire off the overload is going, one should be going to the motor, the other I can't make out in the pic where it's going.


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## Scot H (Jun 2, 2012)

BTW, the coil is the black plastic part on the relay that surrounds the pole (looks like metal plates stacked together), in you pic it is the part with a part # stamped in white on it up in the right corner.

It should have two wires going to it, power from the switch and a common (neutral) back to the transformer.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

The top wire from the overload is going via a 1 inch long jumper cable straight to the coil, and when the magnet pulls in connects to L1. The bottom one is going to the motor and also to a second line that goes outside of the chassis that the guy used to power his DC when the saw was running. I am planning on removing that line as I do not need it at this point, will do that tonight.

I think the wiring is correct, I went over each connection and compared it to the wiring diagram, and things appear to connect to the right places.


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## Scot H (Jun 2, 2012)

Well, you have checked everything as far as I can tell and have the proper voltages. It looks like the coil on the relay may be bad.
I did go look at another Unisaw yesterday but I had forgotten that I had upgraded it to a newer style switch that eliminates that relay and transformer completely. I have a new Unisaw and it doesn't have the mag switch and relay system either.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*dodgeboy77 restored a Unisaw*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/dodgeboy77-7976/

Maybe he has the old style switch? Send him a PM or visitor message and see.... :blink: bill


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

At this point I am considering permanently affixing the magnet in the on position, and just wire a switch into the motor circuit, basically taking the coil/magnet out of the picture. Being that this will be a home shop saw I don't think the safety provided by the magnetic switch is worth the cost of a new coil/relay, and I would rather spend that money on getting safety gear that will actually benefit me -- namely a riving knife and a throat plate, perhaps a blade guard as well.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I posted this earlier*

Grizzly has switches at reasonable prices. This a mag switch rated at 3 HP 220V:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-Switch-Single-Phase-220V-Only-3HP-21-25A/T24101

This a manual switch for motors up to 20 AMPs 220 V:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243


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## Scot H (Jun 2, 2012)

You could get a 2 pole motor rated switch and eliminate everything . This is how the earlier model Unisaws were switched before Delta went to the mag switch / relay system.
Now they have gone back to the 2 pole motor rated switches.
The motor rated switches have a replaceable overload element in them.
I would still check on the cost of a replacement coil/relay.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> Grizzly has switches at reasonable prices. This a mag switch rated at 3 HP 220V:
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-Switch-Single-Phase-220V-Only-3HP-21-25A/T24101
> 
> This a manual switch for motors up to 20 AMPs 220 V:
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243


I like the big paddle on that manual switch. However I find it odd that it says 3HP/20amps, when I thought 5 HP @ 220V is 20 amps (3800 W/220V = 17 amps). Are my calculations off?


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Checked the motor out closer -- what I thought read 5 HP is actually 3 HP so hooray I can just go ahead and get the paddle switch :smile:











De-laminated the other table extension today:











As well as the center. Man that's a lot of gunk!












I ran out of WD-40 3/4 of the way through, so had to call it a night :glare:











Will pick up more WD-40 tomorrow as well as some lacquer thinner to get the last little bits of residue off. The top is in really good condition, looks like the laminate worked well. Only three rust spots, and only one of them (on the right extension) left a couple of shallow pock marks, nothing serious. Just a pain to get all this stuff off again!

I am ordering a new switch and will just wire past the original magnetic contactor. I'll leave it in place in case I ever want to repair it all the way but at this point I would rather spend my money on a mobile base so I can keep the wife from ripping off my head because she can't park in the garage anymore...



Got this #6 in the mail today from ebay -- it's going to be hard to keep my attention on the saw this weekend when there is lapping and honing to be done! :laughing:










Thanks again for all the advice you guys have given so far, it is greatly appreciated.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Center plate of the table cleaned. I followed Shop Dad's suggestion and used a Scotbrite pad with WD-40 and my random orbital sander. Worked real well.

Before:










Center done:










After:










Now all that's left are the miter tracks on this piece.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

You are making great progress. Very cool to see this gem uncovered. Can't wait to see IT working for YOU!


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

The whole top is cleaned, miter slots, wings and all. Forgot to take a picture though... :no:

Got the new switch in:











And wired it in place. I put it directly between the line and the motor, but left all the original wiring intact in case I want/need to go back to it in the future. AC is coming in from the bottom, goes to the switch on the right, back from the switch in the middle and to the motor on the left.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Next were the guide rails and tube for the fence. Lots of missing paint, surface rust, and rubber cement... :thumbdown:










Lots of scraping, scrubbing, sanding, wiping, and four coats of rustoleum primer and top coat later. All they need is some light sanding in a day or two.










Got some rust in the more advanced stages on the fence.










So this will get a nice evaporust bath over night. You can tell by the evaporust color that it has already absorbed a good amount of rust from other projects...











Being that I have set up shop in my garage and the wife for some reason insists on putting her car in there (what gives!?), I need this saw to be somewhat mobile. As such I have a HTC3000 universal mobile base in the mail from Rockler. Should arrive Tuesday, just in time for the 5 day weekend :icon_smile:

Once it's here I will get the base on it and then proceed to assemble the rest of the saw. Can't wait to finally cut some wood!


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Almost done! Spent the majority of the weekend building a play set for my son's 3rd birthday. Good thing I had the saw ready to go (minus the splitter) as I needed to do some ripping and cross cutting thankfully no problems but definitely no more cutting until that splitter is on there...


Got the HTC 3000 mobile base from Rockler. Lots and lots of nuts and bolts but once assembled this thing is rock solid. The saw moved easily and once the brakes are applied it doesn't move :thumbsup:










Didn't have any help to lift the saw, ended up shimming it on 2x4s and taking the base apart and then putting it together again around the saw. Worked great.











Top bolted in place. Had the blade in there in order to square the miter tracks to the blade.











And attached the guide rails.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Fence attached, and adjusted to make it square to the miter track. Still need to get some new paint on the fence.










Everything put together and fine tuned. Got a new metal measuring strip attached to the guide tube as well.











All put together:











Tomorrow night I will work on getting the splitter in place -- picked up a MicroJig splitter pro that I gotta fiddle to put in place just right. Too tired for that tonight :thumbdown:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

A very good restoration. You have invested a lot of time and energy, and it will prove to be a good investment.

I see the fence has a space for an extension table. You need to fill this space, seriously. It can be wood, but you will appreciate having the right side of the blade with support for whatever you need. 

Telling you this from first hand experience. :icon_smile:


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> A very good restoration. You have invested a lot of time and energy, and it will prove to be a good investment.
> 
> I see the fence has a space for an extension table. You need to fill this space, seriously. It can be wood, but you will appreciate having the right side of the blade with support for whatever you need.
> 
> Telling you this from first hand experience. :icon_smile:


Definitely planning on adding a table there, likely with space for a router table plate...


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

ftk said:


> Definitely planning on adding a table there, likely with space for a router table plate...


No, no, no. Go find yourself a delta hd shaper and stick in that empty spot, same exact size as the TS. The HD shapers are even simpler then the uni's.


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## ftk (May 9, 2012)

Finally everything in place and put together! Got myself an Incra Miter V27 gauge, which I really like. The stops make angled cuts real easy to repeat and saves me a lot of time squaring the gauge back up for regular cross cutting. The adjustment screws for the bar work really well, too, fits very snug now. :thumbsup:

Picked up a 0 clearance insert as well.











Being that the saw came without safety equipment I opted for a Micro Jig SteelPRO splitter. Installation was a bit involved, but they work real well and are real easy to remove if needed. The back splitter provides a bit of a featherboard effect as well by pushing the work piece against the fence, which I like.












At this point I have the saw in a condition that I like. I will end up building a table (far down in the list of projects though) and will update this thread once I add it on, but for now I call this restoration completed. The saw has found its permanent place with the right side of the fence against the wall in my garage shop, where I can access it for my everyday cuts, and thanks to the (rock solid) mobile base I can pull it out into the center of the floor in less than a minute if I need more space for really wide cuts. This makes the wife happy as well because she can finally park on her side of the garage!

The cost of the project:
Saw $125 (CL)
Replacement Wire $10
Replacement Switch $20 (Amazon)
Paint + Cleaning Supplies $20
Movable base $110 (Rockler)
0 Clearance Insert $23 (Amazon)
Micro Jig Splitter $28 (Amazon)
Adhesive Measure Tape $8 (Amazon)
Incra V27 Miter Gauge $68 (Amazon)
OK Freud Combo Blade $37 (Amazon)
About 20 hours of time PRICELESS
(for everything else there is mastercard)

Total $449. Seems like a pretty darn good price still considering this is a perfectly running (mobile) unisaw with a 6' Biesenmeyer fence :smile:


Here is the before picture:









And after:











Oh and this little guy is looking for a new home now :laughing:










Thanks again to everybody who helped out with advice. I greatly appreciate it.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Thanks for closing out the restoration with some pictures.

I like the Incra mitre gauges, I have two.

I also used the micro jig splitters in my previous saw. I purchased the steel ones, but never got to install before I gave the saw and steel splitter to a friend when I got my replacement saw.

My new saw has a riving knife, which I prefer, but I would recommend the micro jig for anyone who has a saw which cannot be fitted with a riving knife.

I have had too many examples of internal stresses in a board only becoming apparent when cutting. Just a matter of time...


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

Great job. Enjoy.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looks awesome! Nice job all around. I have that Miter gauge too. It's nice but you might want to add a board across for more surface to register on the work. Enjoy!


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