# Help with built in drawer replacement plan



## TrevortdogR

I have drawers that need sliders so I want to build new ones with them.
Since I'm new to woodworking where do I go to find ways to do joints?

I'm going to use the link below for the measurement part. 
http://www.ehow.com/how_6049791_make-sliding-drawer.html


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## jschaben

TrevortdogR said:


> I have drawers that need sliders so I want to build new ones with them.
> Since I'm new to woodworking where do I go to find ways to do joints?
> 
> I'm going to use the link below for the measurement part.
> http://www.ehow.com/how_6049791_make-sliding-drawer.html


Some depends on the material. I usually use plywood on utility type drawers so locking rabbets work very well. Very strong and easy to make. Also, because I use plywood, I don't need to worry about expansion issues so I can glue the bottoms in which adds to the rigidity of the drawer. Here's a pic of a locking rabbet, aka rabbet/dado joint. Can be done on either a table saw or a router table. :smile:


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## liquid6

jschaben said:


> Some depends on the material. I usually use plywood on utility type drawers so locking rabbets work very well. Very strong and easy to make. Also, because I use plywood, I don't need to worry about expansion issues so I can glue the bottoms in which adds to the rigidity of the drawer. Here's a pic of a locking rabbet, aka rabbet/dado joint. Can be done on either a table saw or a router table. :smile:


I have done this joint on a router table. Not to difficult. It is super strong also.


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## TrevortdogR

jschaben said:


> Some depends on the material. I usually use plywood on utility type drawers so locking rabbets work very well. Very strong and easy to make. Also, because I use plywood, I don't need to worry about expansion issues so I can glue the bottoms in which adds to the rigidity of the drawer. Here's a pic of a locking rabbet, aka rabbet/dado joint. Can be done on either a table saw or a router table. :smile:


I'm going to use plywood, and I will use the locking rabbet joint. 
Thanks for your help.

What type of router bit to make a locking rabbet joint?


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## jschaben

TrevortdogR said:


> I'm going to use plywood, and I will use the locking rabbet joint.
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> What type of router bit to make a locking rabbet joint?


Just a 1/4" straight bit. Can also be done with a slot cutter, just use a different orientation of the stock. :smile:


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## TrevortdogR

jschaben said:


> Just a 1/4" straight bit. Can also be done with a slot cutter, just use a different orientation of the stock. :smile:


Should I use 3/4" ply for the bottom also?

I assume I will be using the same type of joint to fit the bottom board in right?

How much narrower should the bottom board be in width & length to fit inside with the rabbet joint, 1/16" on all sides?


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## liquid6

I cut the dadoes with a 3/8" bit and cut the rabbets with a 3/8" rabbeting bit. 

You should be able to get by with 1/4" for the bottoms. Make sure you cut a dado about 1/4" from the bottom edge of the sides. that dado should be about 1/4" to 3/8" deep.


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## MT Stringer

1/4 inch plywood should be all you will need for drawer bottoms. I have a pair in my workbench that I made almost 20 years ago. They have had a lot of heavy stuff in them through the years. Still just as good as the day I built them. For the sides and front, I used simple but joints and glue and finish nails. Never had any kind of problem with them. And these were built for use and abuse in a workbench.

Mike


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## cabinetman

TrevortdogR said:


> I'm going to use plywood, and I will use the locking rabbet joint.


With plywood you could get some tear out with a locking rabbet bit. A simple rabbet joint (very easy to make) with glue and a fastener works very well. In the image below you'll see the direction of the fasteners (either a staple or brad nail).

With a false drawer front added to the front of the box, the joint or the fasteners won't show.
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## jschaben

I just used half inch for all of it; front, back, sides and bottom. Didn't see a good reason to buy 1/4" for just the bottoms. I just made all the tongues and grooves 1/4" and used drawer fronts. Since everything interlocked (used the locking rabbet for the bottom joint too), I didn't even use fasteners, just TitebondII and a 30 minute clampup. :smile:


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## TrevortdogR

I finally got a drawer made!


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