# Small Wheelchair Ramp



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

I've been asked to construct 2 small ramps to allow for wheelchair access to a house's front door and back patio door. The walkways lead to about a 4" step ledge where the door is. I've built ramps in my garage for my motorcycle, but haven't had to make something that would need to withstand Florida weather and look halfway decent as the entry point to someone's home. So, I might need a little advice here. 

Lumber - This needs to be inexpensive and will be used for maybe a month or two. I'm thinking 3/4 ply (or 3/4 pine boards) for the ramp and sides with 2x4 and 2x2 framing underneath. I still need to get over there to measure but i'm assuming a standard 36" opening. In my mind I'm picturing 4 plywood triangles with framing between and on the surface. Should I use treated wood or just rely on the finish to keep the wood in decent condition?

Finish - not real sure which way to go here. I don't want to leave it unfinished for obvious reasons. I don't need a slick finish since it will be walked on and it rains a lot here in the Summer. I need something that would dry and cure pretty fast.. the sooner I can get this to them the better. Would something simple like a decking sealant be okay for short term use? I might consider painting for aesthetics before I seal. 

Is there anything I can do that's not permanent to keep the ramps in place? The house is a rental so I can't exactly epoxy it or fasten to the concrete. But I need to keep it from slipping. 

I over-engineer a lot when it comes to these kinds of things but at the same time I want to know that it will be sufficient and will not injure the kid in the chair or the others that will walk across it a few times a day. I'll work on a drawing while I wait on some replies.


----------



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Not a great drawing, but hopefully this makes sense.


----------



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Hmm.. thinking about using 1 x 4 pine boards all around. Not entirely sure how I'll cut those triangles yet... still getting used to this TS. I'm going to pick up some of that anti-slip tape for the ramp.


----------



## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

What's you slope? Here in NC the code has a maximum of one unit vertical in eight units of horizonal run. However, most people around here use one unit vertical in 12 units of horizonal run. Also, the code requires a 3' by 3' platform at the top of a ramp where the door opens onto the ramp. Handrails are required (on one side) on ramps where the slope exceeds one vertical unit per 12 horizonal units.
Not sure what the Florida code requires.
Tom


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Unless the customer specifies I would not get too concerned about code for a temp ramp.

Regardless of code, the slope of the ramp should be so that the person in the wheelchair can use it. A young person with strong arms can get by with a steeper ramp than some older person with weaker arms. Of course if the person in the wheel chair is along for the ride and someone elseis pushing then you build to that person.

I poured the ramps at my house out of concrete because they were going to be permanent. What will the ramps be resting on. If it is concrete then you can drill the ramp and the concrete so that a large nail(s), say 16 penny, can be placed through the holes and hold all steady. (The small hole in the concrete should be no problem even for a rental.) If it is dirt then probably it will stay OK on its own. This is especially true if the chair is being pushed.

Personally I think you are over building. I believe three dividers is plenty whether you use 3/4 plywood or 1/4. If you use 1x4 weather resistance should not be any problem for a 1 to 2 month usage. If so just use treated wood. The sandpaper surface will be good.

The main thing on a wheelchair ramp is to minimize any height changes over 1/4 to 3/8 inches. It takes some strength to get over these.

George


----------



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Just got the measurements - it's only 4.5" tall and I estimate the incline length to be about 18", so we're looking at a slope arond 1/5 (1 vertical for every 5 horizontal). This is not a permanent fixture so I'm not going to get too involved with building codes unless it becomes long term.

Thanks George. I found out it's motorized so he should be okay making the small bumps. I agree that I was making it too strong. But after learning that it's motorized, maybe I should stick to the original drawing?


----------



## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

regular white wood should last a couple of years.
code here is max 15 degrees ( 3/12 pitch )


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

bofa said:


> Just got the measurements - it's only 4.5" tall and I estimate the incline length to be about 18", so we're looking at a slope arond 1/5 (1 vertical for every 5 horizontal). This is not a permanent fixture so I'm not going to get too involved with building codes unless it becomes long term.
> 
> Thanks George. I found out it's motorized so he should be okay making the small bumps. I agree that I was making it too strong. But after learning that it's motorized, maybe I should stick to the original drawing?


Motorized is much heavier. I would go 30" length. I think 18" would be too steep regardless of codes.

George


----------



## Willie T (Feb 1, 2009)

http://www.justice.gov/crt/ada/adastd94.pdf is a link to ADA Standards.

Ramps fall under A-4.8. I think that starts on page 570.

While this is all overkill for your little ramp, it wouldn't hurt to learn some of this stuff.


----------



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Thanks Willie - I'll check that out tomorrow while I'm on one of my boring conference calls. 

George, I think that might be too long for the porch. I'm going to go with 24". If it doesn't work, I'll just have to re-do it. 

Got everything cut... just clamped an extra 2x2 to the board as a guide for the ol' circular saw and went to town. The triangles turned out pretty good. I cut the rest on the miter saw. Hopefully I'll get it put together tomorrow and get some paint and sealant on it asap. They decided on gray to match the concrete sealant that's on the porch. 

Thanks for all of the help and tips. I'll let ya know how the simple, yet complicated ramp turns out later this week.


----------



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Got it all put together today and stress-tested with my big 'ol butt bouncing up and down on different parts... so far so good. 



















I know.. not the best piece, but it works and was inexpensive.


----------



## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Willie T said:


> http://www.justice.gov/crt/ada/adastd94.pdf is a link to ADA Standards.
> 
> Ramps fall under A-4.8. I think that starts on page 570.
> 
> While this is all overkill for your little ramp, it wouldn't hurt to learn some of this stuff.


Thanks for the input Willie. I have also been asked to construct a ramp for a neighbour. This gives me a great place to start on design work.:thumbsup:

Gerry


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

BOFA - I like the looks of it. I need a ramp for my shed and can use this as a guide. How did you cut the triangles?


----------



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

There are a few different ways to approach it, but I ended up clamping another board to the piece I was cutting as a guide for my circular saw. Once I determined the total height, I subtracted the thickness of the planks I was using and marked that at one end. Then I marked a straight line across the board. I cut the diagonal first (first mark to the corner) using the guide and then straight across using the guide. 2 cuts, 2 triangles - very simple method and it worked great.


----------



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Oh yeah... still waiting on the pic from the house, but here's a shot after I finished the paint and grip strips.


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

OK, I know how to do that. Thank you.


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

How did you attach the planks to the trriangle? I have been having fastening problems lately.


----------



## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Clamped with wood glue and used a brad nailer. Keep in mind this was done with short term use consideration. Pre-drilled holes and decking screws would probably be good for long term use.


----------



## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Finish...

After you have primed and painted with the first coat mix some play-sand into the second coat of paint. This will give a really nice non slip surface.

IIRC, you'll need 4-5 feet of run to rise 4-1/2 inches. I built one for the next door neighbor. I used 2x12 and CDX plywood. I carefully notched the ramp to fit around the the step and front door threshold. I had a 12" rise but the neighbor said that 8 feet was enough. He didn't want the 12 foot ramp with a 3 foot square rest platform midway.

BTW - You should add curbs to the ramp so that a wheel chair doesn't run off the ramp sides.


----------



## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

Ok, deck screws and glue. Thank you.


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

General ADA rambling,could be long.........A month and a half ago get a call from one of wifey's child development "guru" friends.She's the director at a program for a very historic local college.Probably because of the historical nature of the joint,my name comes up.I didn't want the job of contracting the wheelchair ramp,but was very concerned that whomever did it,that they have some sensibility twds the hist. concerns.So,I did a detailed drawing with all the pertinant data(shot the elevat. with my dads 50 yo K&E transit).But to garner interest amongst the powers to be at the college,IOW's fat walleted alumni,I did the design format as a suitable for framing drawing.......After contacting some pretty $$$ hotshot architect buddies about ADA compliance issue's,which was basically to see of there was anything "new" I should be concerned with they gave me one pc of advice.Even though our design was compliant they strongly suggested we not call it a wheelchair ramp.Instead call it a sloped sidewalk.The reasoning is one of inspections.Again,this ramp is compliant...its just easier to sail through inspect. office if its NOT called a wheelchair ramp?Go figure,but if it helps someone...great,BW


----------



## sp5937 (Oct 27, 2010)

I recently built a ramp for a friend's family member, and it was a total of 32' long. I built it according to Washington State ADA, with a 1/12 slope, and built it 4' wide to allow for anything they wanted to take up the ramp. I came off the existing porch with a 6' ramp to a 5x7 platform to turn the corner to the continuing ramp down tot he ground. I added a concrete footing at the end to make a good end to blend the ramp to the ground. It turned out very well, and the customer was impressed. I would put pics up but do not know how...sorry!! I built it out of 2x6 treated framing, and 2x6 treated flooring also. The corner posts were 4x4 treated, and the railing was all out of 2x4 treated.


----------

