# Need solution for door stop



## gadwood (Feb 3, 2010)

I am building a clock case from a plan published by Woodsmith in 1987. At that time, there was a h/w kit. but I am doing with my own. I am having trouble with the door, need ideas on how to keep it closed. The project is about 14 inches high, the door is 11x7 (outside dimensions are exactly 1/8th shorter). There is no stop behind the door, the plans called for a bullet catch. The only one I see in stores is really oversized for this arrangement, and will require a large space between the jam and door frame. The original kit must had a special bullet catch, very small, with a nearly flush catch. Any suggestions on alternatives? I am thinking of installing a small stop only at the top, with a mild magnet on both door and stop, just enough to keep door closed. This is for a clock, and door will be opened weekly,so a smooth operation is desired.

thanks
gadwood


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

Have you looked at these? One size is 1/4" diameter. 
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10576

If both male and female parts still sit too proud, you can drill a litle deeper for each piece to get the tolerance you need.


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## RLFX (Feb 2, 2010)

Have a look here !!

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=450&filter=stop hinges


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

which clock is it? on small cabinets and clocks i like to use a brass knob on a shaft (can use a screw), and on the backside of door make a brass key and solder it to the screw. you have to make a slot in the door case (use a dremel and blade) to accept the key. the function is that when the knob is turned the brass key tuns out beyond the door and into the slot holding the door shut.


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## gadwood (Feb 3, 2010)

It's the Crystal Clock from Woodsmith. I may go with the idea of a bar behind the door, and a slot in the jamb. thanks


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I would suggest installing your hinges so that they are about 1/256" proud of the door and jamb. (That's about half the thickness of a playing card.)

Then a ball catch in the bottom of the door and bottom sill.


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## gadwood (Feb 3, 2010)

*Fine tolerances*

Thats an impressive number. being that woodworking is generally done within a tolerance of perhaps a 1/32nd of an inch, how would you manipulate the wood and a jig to get that close? And, more importantly, how exactly would the screw holes be marked to get that close to the 1/256th of an inch?


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I made the assumption that you were installing hinges in the edge of the door and in the edge of door jamb or cabinet face frame or the side of the frame-less cabinet.

So I'm really speaking of the depth of the hinge mortised into the edge of the door, etc. Depth is easy to hit 1/256". When you look at the ring of a PC 690 router you can easily eyeball 1/4 of the distance between the graduations.

Also I use a cheap HF, $2 vernier caliper that goes to 1/128". It is easy to estimate a half of a 1/128".

One of the things that make doors difficult to keep closed is hinge mortises that are too deep. The wood of the door and frame come into contact with each other and act like a spring pushing the door open. If the two parts of the hinge come together it is usually beyond the close point.

As for what I try to work to: IMHO in furniture, 1/32" is as wide as the Grand Canyon. I really strive to close joints to less than 1/256".


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## merc (Feb 6, 2010)

Are you talking about 1/2 of 1/64th? as in .008 of an inch?
If so, that is way too close of a tolerance to make me believe it can be held in woodworking.
That is a very tight tolerance in precision machining.
And there is no way those 2 buck plastic stick verniers will read that with any consistant acuracy.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Time out guys!

The Half of a 128th that I'm talking about is THE DEPTH OF THE HINGE MORTISE. Any of you can hit that precision on a depth adjustment on a PC 690 router. That's 1/4 of the distance between marks on the depth indication dial. You can easily interpolate (i.e. estimate) to 1/256" on depth adjustment.

As for length, I always use a fixed stop when cutting to length. That way all the pieces are the same length. Same when ripping pieces, I cut them all at the same time and they are all the same. 

When I close up joints, my goal is a zero gap. That is usually easy when all the pieces are the same length or width. 

With stops and technique I can hit the same length each time. And that is close to +/- 1/128. If I take the time to clear all dust on the stop, then +/- 1/256 is realistic. 

So is my yo-yo ruler accurate to +/- 1/256? Of course not. However with stops and technique, +/- 1/256 is realistic.

The issue is repeatability. If you are cutting the rungs for a ladder back chair that are supposed to be 16". It doesn't matter if they are 16-1/4 or 15-3/4 so long as they are all the same +/- whatever.


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## merc (Feb 6, 2010)

OOPS-My bad
sorry Rich-I did not mean to come across as if you were wrong.
I do agree when you say that repeatablity is the key.
Accuracy is only as good as the matching piece. 
If one stile is dead nuts and the other off 1/16th the whole thing is a mess. Both side s need to be off the same , in the same direction.
Good job


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