# 1998 Delta vs new Jet vs new Sawstop



## Mtpisgah (Sep 15, 2018)

Hello, all. I am new here and want to step up my woodworking skills, right now they are not great due mainly to not doing it often enough, and to a lesser extent, having a crappy saw. Every time I use it I get frustrated because the fence is always hard to get straight, even after I bought a replacement fence. I do not think that a new saw will suddenly make me a master woodworker, but I think it will make me more likely to do it more often and increase my abilities over time. I want to start making some cabinets and furniture for the house and the last piece I made had some issues that I attributed to the saw, though they are likely to just as attributable to my skill. Either way, I want to replace my 15 year old Skill table saw with something better. 

I have been looking at different options and found a Delta Platinum Contractor saw made in 1998 for $500 that looks almost new based on the photos, but have also looked at new Jets and Sawstops. I really do not know if I will use the saw often enough to justify the cost of a Jet or Sawstop, but I have concerns over the Delta due to its age and lack of riving knife and guard. My wife thinks I should get the SS for safety reasons and it is not that much more than a Jet, all thing considered. 

What are your thoughts on an older Delta? Are replacement parts a concern? If I can afford it, should I just get a new saw for better safety features? 

Thanks


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*a common dilemma .....*

It's not uncommon to be in your shoes, older/cheaper VS newer/more expensive. I chose the older cheaper trail because the Saw Stops weren't invented at that time. Saw Stops are well made and well designed saws and could save you a bunch of $$$ if you have just one "incident". It's an insurance policy that you pay for up front, just in case .... If the wife is onboard, I say go for it and get a Saw Stop.

However, the Saw Stop is like a "one trick pony", it will not cure all the ills associated with the table saw. This thread is worth reading as it explains the limitation of a SS when it comes to using other types of blades. The brake cartridge must be installed for the saw to operate, but you can "disarm" it for certain operations:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/sawstop-q-their-support-21250/#post2008922

There are plenty of us older guys who have operated a tablesaw safely for many years because we understand the "rules" pertaining to high speed rotating cutters. Those same rules apply to shapers, router tables and table saws and have to do with work support, work placement, work hold downs., proper feed technique and direction, safety guards and such. That's a lot to understand VS going up to the Saw Stop and casually running a board through it. HOWEVER, having said all that, a kickback would not be prevented by the flesh sensing technology! 

This thread has a vivid illustration of a serious kickback incident where I posted some of the concerns and solutions. See post number 15. Kickback is quite preventable when you understand how and why it happens AND the use of a blade cover, splitter or riving knife:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/table-saw-question-beginner-207144/

One of the best You Tube videos on kickback:


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## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

11th Commandment- Don't put your fingers near the blade. There are push blocks and push sticks that are useful with a TS.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

I have had very good luck with used equipment. The $500 saw you mention above should be a very big improvement over the Skil you’re presently using. The fence is a critical component of the tablesaw. Make sure you’re getting a quality fence. Also when buying used, ask the seller if they have accessories to sell with the saw. They may have dado blades, additional sawblades or other things to go with the saw. Good luck.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Buying used equipment can be the cheapest or the most expensive route to go, it all depends. A used machine in like new condition at a good price is a bargain, if it needs TLC or parts then it needs careful consideration.

Replacement parts can be expensive or non existent so they have to be fabricated, this can get to be pricey and before you know it there is more invested in an old machine than if you had bought new.

Mechanical ability also comes into play, I don't have the same decksterity that I had when younger, probably broke more small delicate parts in the last 5 years puttering around than in my entire working career.


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## Mtpisgah (Sep 15, 2018)

Woodnthings
Good point on the limitations of the SS and the blades it can use. It does make me think a Jet or Delta would be a better choice. My dad used his table saw for 40 + years before he cut the tip of one finger off and ruined the nail on another. I do understand the dangers of a TS and I use a push stick, but do like to try to be as safe as possible, I even wear chaps when chainsawing. I have read both of the threads you referenced before I even made my post, good info. 

Pineknot
I have a couple that I use. 

Toolmam
It has a Uni fence which appears to be good, I wish it had a biesemeyer. Any idea of if it can be retrofitted?

Frank
That is one of my concerns. The saw should be good but I hate to spend that money and then have to spend another $500 fixing it or trying to add safety features. 

Another wrench was thrown in the works today, I texted a buddy who makes ukuleles to see what kind of TS he had and what he would recommend. He called two minutes later and said he had a 1947 Delta in his shop he would give me, but it needs some work. An even older saw that needs work but is free, I think I would be getting myself into even more trouble with that and not making my life easier. I am going to take a look at it just for the attached jointer but I think I am going to opt for a Jet or SS. At 47-years of age, my safety trumps the price of a saw. The SS will do a dado with a different cartridge so I can do that if I need to. 

Thanks for the input, I plan to start posting some other questions as my journey continues. Bow ties are my next topic.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Unifence VS Biesemeyer*

I got 2 of each. I like 'em both. They do different things. The Biese is a production type rip 'em and run 'em all day long. It's accurate and stays where you've locked it. You can bump pretty it hard and it won't budge. The parallel sides are good for sliding jigs that ride the fence top, unlike a Unifence.

The Unifence is more versatile. It's flippable and reversible, having a "low" side and a "high" side to rip against. The low side allows more space for fingers and push sticks while the high side keeps things more vertical for special operations. It's adjustable fore and aft for special operations. It's more finicky to lock down requiring some front to back pressure while sliding it right or left. Nothing you can't get used to, however. My main saws have the Unifence while the Biesemeyer is on a reserve saw for special operations. 

No need to retrofit unless or until you've given it a try. :vs_cool:


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I paid the money up front and bought a Bosch REAXX table saw, which has a safety blade retraction very similar to the SawStop jobsite saw. Unfortunately, due to litigation, the REAXX is not available in the US, but it is available elsewhere in the world.

I have mostly used tools, but the table saw I bought new, partly because older table saws do not have that important safety blade retraction mechanism.

Given a choice between the Jet and the SawStop, it would be no question for me. I would buy the SawStop. When asked, I tell people that I chose a table saw with the safety mechanism because I can't count higher than nine. :-o

Choosing among SawStop models, I would buy the SawStop contractor saw or better, unless portability is an absolute must. The price difference between SawStop's jobsite saw and their contractor saw is so little, and you get so much more saw in the contractor saw vs. the jobsite saw. The table is cast iron instead of aluminum, and there is more lead-in distance to the blade - two useful features that I wish I had in my REAXX jobsite table saw.


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## RepairmanJack (Aug 4, 2013)

I'd also recommend a Sawstop if you can swing it. I've been thinking of buying one as well. I narrowly avoided losing a finger on a 10" benchtop Skilsaw, but I've also been kicked in the gut by a kickback on my Jet 10" contractor saw. It's just a matter of time before one passing moment of distraction or simply bad luck leads to an injury. It's usually something minor, but sometimes, someone wins the unlucky lottery... 



I started with a 10" Skil benchtop. A few years later, I scored a nice Jet Contractor's saw that met most of my needs, but later I found a 2hp Delta Unisaw and I got a fence upgrade that finally got me to the next level of woodworking. But, if I had the money, I'd go for the Sawstop Cabinetsaw in a heartbeat. 



As noted previously, it's insurance that you pay up front. The cost of lost work, medical bills, plus pain and suffering will greatly exceed the cost of investing in a sawstop. Some of us ar annoyed that the creator of Sawstop tried to get legislation that his technology *had* to be sold in all saws, but it doesn't diminish the value of the tech in protecting one's soft flesh and bone from unyielding carbide teeth,,,


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

If possible I would go with a SawStop too, but what ever you get I would make sure it has a riving knife on it. Splitters are okay but they don't move up and down with the blade.


On July 3rd 2017, I was cutting a bunch of stickers for a flitch cut walnut log, I got careless and when I was bringing the push stick back, I hit the back side of the blade, it hit so hard it tried to bury the push stick into my hand, and it did a pretty good job, had about 15 stitches in the mostly hamburger that was left


If I hadn't had ins, it would have cost me more than the price of a Sawstop


Which brings me to another sore spot, why is it if I didn't have ins the bill would have been $3600, but since I did the ins co got by with only paying about $360? Still a hose job for the 15-20 minutes the Dr worked on it


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## Frost (Sep 24, 2018)

"My wife thinks I should get the SS for safety reasons and it is not that much more than a Jet, all thing considered." 

Bingo. Seems you have your wife's permission to spend a bit more on a TS. I agree with her that safety is paramount, especially with someone who's learning as he goes. Saw Stops are good saws, I've used both the Contractor model and Cabinet saws. I did have some issues with cartridges misfiring, but this was 15 years ago when they were new. SS company was always helpful with great customer service. You can override the cartridge if you need to. A tablesaw accident, although not likely, can be life altering. I'd take her advice and thank her. Heaven forbid, you'd have an accident and have to explain to her why you didn't get a SS.

That being said, I use a 30 year old Powermatic 66 now at home and I love it. I'd change it for a new Sawstop if I could, but a comparable model would be close to 4G and I wouldn't even ask the wife for that.


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## Mtpisgah (Sep 15, 2018)

I pulled the trigger on a Sawstop yesterday. After weighing the benefits of the other options and which SS to buy, I decided on the site saw. The deck is larger than my old Skilsaw so that will make things easier, and my garage space is limited. Based on the woodworking I plan to do, it should be enough and if not, I will build in feed and out feed tables that I can easily move around. I have two material feed stands now that I use and they should work out for my current projects. 

Earlier this week I ripped some 2x6s with the Skilsaw and last night I did it with SS, the difference was monumental. 

I also bought a Makita track saw to break down larger pieces before putting them on the table saw.


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

Dude you hit the wife lottery me thinks. Congrats!! she sounds like a peach.
Enjoy your new saws and post a few pics of your projects if you get the time. We also like tool pics hint hint.


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## Mtpisgah (Sep 15, 2018)

I can be indecisive sometimes. I bought the job site saw since it was larger than my Skilsaw, but after using it a few times I decided I had made a mistake and would be better off with the Contractor saw. I talked to the guys at the shop and they said they had a 30 day, Amy reason, return policy. They took the site saw back and I paid the difference for the contractor saw. 

Now I need to make something cool.









I am currently working on a day bed for the porch, then I will be on to the table/ottoman to go with it.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

congrats on the purchase



Catpower said:


> On July 3rd 2017, I was cutting a bunch of stickers for a flitch cut walnut log, I got careless and when I was bringing the push stick back, I hit the back side of the blade, it hit so hard it tried to bury the push stick into my hand, and it did a pretty good job, had about 15 stitches in the mostly hamburger that was left
> 
> 
> If I hadn't had ins, it would have cost me more than the price of a Sawstop


for the record: saw stop would not have protected you in this situation
the blade hit your wood push stick, the blade would have had to contact meat to activate


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

_Ogre said:


> congrats on the purchase
> 
> 
> 
> ...





I am aware of it, but if it would have had a riving knife it probably would have...................nah it would be right beside the slitter and blade guard LOL


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## Mikhail2400 (Jun 20, 2018)

Mtpisgah said:


> I can be indecisive sometimes. I bought the job site saw since it was larger than my Skilsaw, but after using it a few times I decided I had made a mistake and would be better off with the Contractor saw. I talked to the guys at the shop and they said they had a 30 day, Amy reason, return policy. They took the site saw back and I paid the difference for the contractor saw.
> 
> Now I need to make something cool.
> 
> ...


Nice looking saw! My Porter Cable TS has basically the same stand yours does. The pup-up/down wheels are very handy to have if you have limited room like I do.
Now go forth and build young man!!:vs_rocking_banana:


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