# Home Made Wipe On Poly



## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

Based on simple Internet research, the suggested way to create my own wipe on poly was to dilute any full strength poly with 50% mineral spirits. I have done this with Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (oil based).

This is working well as far as smoothness is concerned. After 5 thin and light coats the surface of the piece of furniture is very smooth. The problem is that the sheen appears very subdued. I am using semi gloss and after 5 coats the semi gloss look should be fully achieved. But the look I am getting is more satin in appearance.

Any suggestions or feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.

Gary


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Yea just curious as to why wouldn't you just get a wipe on poly to begin with? Instead of what your doing. Sounds like a waste.


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## dustmagnet (Jul 12, 2012)

When you start top coating with poly, it doesn't matter what final finish you want, ALWAYS use clear gloss until your final coat, then go with the desired sheen. This way you don't come out with a milky, plastic look to it. After the final coat you can use a variety of polishing compounds, #0000 steel wool, or some like to wet sand to get to the desired look. Word of advice, when sanding between coats, all you want to do is get any dust nubs or the one gnat in the shop, don't apply a lot of pressure. I personally don't sand between coats, #0000 steel wool for me(this is only used on oil based poly and stain). I have never seen a coat of poly start peeling off because it didn't adhere to the last coat. I myself have never used wipe on poly, it's hard to teach old dogs new tricks....lol. good luck.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

GAF said:


> Based on simple Internet research, the suggested way to create my own wipe on poly was to dilute any full strength poly with 50% mineral spirits. I have done this with Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (oil based).
> 
> This is working well as far as smoothness is concerned. After 5 thin and light coats the surface of the piece of furniture is very smooth. The problem is that the sheen appears very subdued. I am using semi gloss and after 5 coats the semi gloss look should be fully achieved. But the look I am getting is more satin in appearance.
> 
> ...


In using the "spar urethane" as the varnish part of the mix, it has a higher oil ratio than an oil base polyurethane or a non poly varnish. The oil ratio allows a better flow. The higher the ratio, the softer the finish. You can make a simple wiping topcoat with mixing thirds of a varnish, BLO, and mineral spirits. You might try just a mix of a non poly varnish like an interior varnish, and mineral spirits.









 







.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Wipe on polyurethane is a different product than the Helmsman spar or any brushing varnish. The wipe on varnish is formulated thinner not just watered down. The more you thin the Helmsman spar the more it's going to screw up the sheen. It's just not a good idea to thin it. I thin the first coat of varnish so it soaks in better but the consecutive coats I thin as little as possible for the purpose of spraying. When brushing I don't thin it. 

The spar varnish is made to be softer and more elastic to be used out in the sun and weather. For interior use a polyurethane varnish would be a harder more durable finish.


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## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

Dominick, one of the reasons I am doing this is that I have a few cans of full strength poly but I strongly prefer the wipe on approach that I want to use up. Also I think this is a less expensive solution.

Thanks.

Gary


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## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

dustmagnet, I am going to start top coating using your approach of high gloss till the last one which I will generally do with semi gloss which is my preferred sheen. Thank you.


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## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

cabinetman, thanks for the feedback. I am still on the learning curve (have been at this refinishing for less than a year). I will try your suggestions.

Gary


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## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

Steve, there is some new information to me in your response. I appreciate your helping me to learn more. Now I understand the sheen issue. In fact I just put on a coat of unthinned spar urethane and I wiped it on quickly (my preferred technique). The sheen immediately looked better.

Also I am using spar urethane because the table sits in a living room window and is exposed to the sun a lot. That is what caused serious damage to the original finish which is why it is being refinished.

Gary


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## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> Wipe on polyurethane is a different product than the Helmsman spar or any brushing varnish. The wipe on varnish is formulated thinner not just watered down. The more you thin the Helmsman spar the more it's going to screw up the sheen. It's just not a good idea to thin it. I thin the first coat of varnish so it soaks in better but the consecutive coats I thin as little as possible for the purpose of spraying. When brushing I don't thin it.
> 
> The spar varnish is made to be softer and more elastic to be used out in the sun and weather. For interior use a polyurethane varnish would be a harder more durable finish.


Steve, I have an additional question if I may.

I now have two coats of the outdoor Spar Urethane on the table in question. I am wondering if it is okay to now switch to an indoor wipe on poly that I can apply in very thin coats to achieve the smoothness that I am after. Will the UV protection provided by the Spar Urethane still work? Or will direct sunlight (this table sits in front of an uncovered main window) harm the indoor poly? 

Thanks, Gary


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GAF said:


> Steve, I have an additional question if I may.
> 
> I now have two coats of the outdoor Spar Urethane on the table in question. I am wondering if it is okay to now switch to an indoor wipe on poly that I can apply in very thin coats to achieve the smoothness that I am after. Will the UV protection provided by the Spar Urethane still work? Or will direct sunlight (this table sits in front of an uncovered main window) harm the indoor poly?
> 
> Thanks, Gary


 If it were me I would just continue with the Spar Urethane. If you would use a very soft natural brush it should finish very nicely. A spar is made softer to be more elastic to be used outdoors but it's not that much softer then polyurethane. If you wish to use a thin coat of the wipe on poly over the spar it would be ok and what ever UV protection you have with the two coats of spar will still work. The problem you will have with the Helmsman spar more than the stain fading is it yellowing. The finish will yellow quite a bit sitting in the sun. Sitting in a sunny window a better finish would have been after staining coat the table with a product called Sun Block made by Kwick Kleen. It's kind of like sun screen for wood. Then topcoat it with Epifanes clear varnish. I think even the interior wipe on poly would have been a better choice.


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## GAF (Nov 4, 2012)

Steve, thank you again for the detailed feedback. My issue working with the Spar Urethane is primarily experience and skill with brushing on a finish. I find the wipe on approach so much easier even though it takes generally twice as many coats. I am glad that the UV protection will remain. Had I known more when I started this project to be sure I would have done things differently. That's part of the learning process I guess.

Thank you.

Gary


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