# attaching a top



## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

I'm building a credenza for a relative.It's 48"Lx20"Wx32"h,has a divider in the center and two shelves on each side.The top has a 1"overhang in front and sides.This is made of red oak and will be very heavy.I need to know a good way to attach the top.I know when it gets moved around they will most likely grab the top and lift.But the top still needs to be able to move as it will.Are the wooden cleats that screw to the top and ride in a groove in the sides and back strong enough?Or should I use deck top fasteners or something like that?I really have no idea what the best way would be so any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick


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## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

What's wrong?
I didn't expect to get 0 answers on this.Do I need more info or something?:huh:
Thanks,
Rick


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## carlis stephens (Sep 5, 2008)

They do make fasteners (metal) for couner tops that mount in the corners and then screw the top down from under side. Or make your own out of wood and glue and screw the corners and drill a hole to fasten thetop down.


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## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

Carlis, I think you're missing the point of the question, which is "what fasteners can I use that will *ALLOW MOVEMENT*". That is, allow expansion/contraction as humidity changes.

Sorry, Rick, but I don't have an answer, just trying to restate your question w/ emphasis on the hard part.


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## Jim Tank (Apr 28, 2009)

*To expand, or knot*

Haffle sells metal corner angle brackets that have holes on the surface you attatch to the side and slots for the side you attatch to the piece that you suspect will expand and contract. If you want to go real heavy duty, use angled strut metal found at most hardware stores in 2x2 sixe. It has both holes and slots in both sides. Use a flat washer between strut and screw for easier movement as larger piece of solid wood moves.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

Figure 8 fasteners are another choice.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You don't have to buy any special hardware per se. Cut two rails out of 3/4" plywood or solid wood 2 1/2" by the length of the inside of the cabinet from left to right. Glue and screw it to the inside of the faceframe or whatever rail is on front, and in the back. Run them over the tops of any dividers and glue and screw them down. 

The way I make base cabinets is to dado the floor into the ends. I make those rails and glue and fasten them into a rabbet on the ends or make a stub tenon joint. Then any dividers are made to glue into a rabbet in the floor and get glued and screwed to the underside of those rails.

If the top is Oak plywood, screw the top down to those two rails from the inside of the cabinet.

If the top is a glue up of solid wood, or one piece of solid wood, make elongated holes on the two rails and use pan head screws with washers through the elongated holes into the top from the inside. Reference the front and back elongated holes to pretty much line up (front to back), so if the top does decide to move it will slip with the washers. You can snug up the screws, but don't overly tighten. As long as the top is snug to the cabinet so there's no play, you can lift it by the edges.


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## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

Thanks Guys,
I often think too much into things.I'd thought about the steel figure eights but didn't know if they would hold well enough in plywood to lift a heavy piece by the top.The top is a solid glue up.
Thanks Again:yes::yes:,
Rick


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