# Window trim on flat log walls



## DBBWoodworking (May 24, 2017)

I'm finally tackling the inside window trim on my house. I've got 2 situations that I need guidance on. One is on the walls that have flat, laminated logs - see the first pic. I plan on using 3/4" jams and flat, 1/2" X 2 1/2" trim butted, with an apron and 3/4" stool. The logs end at the rough opening of the window and have OSB lining the edge. The edge of the OSB is straight but the logs are not even with each other and therefore not with the OSB. In some areas, the OSB is proud of the logs, in others the OSB is inset from the logs. So I have a very uneven surface for the trim. I can remove the OSB that sticks out from the logs, but I still have the unevenness of the logs to deal with. The width of the jambs is nominally 1 3/4" but vary maybe by 3/16" or more around the window. Is the best thing I can do is pick the widest jamb width number from all three sides and make the header jamb and side jambs equal to that? Then just accept the gaps between trim and logs that will occur on the outside of the trim? See the third pic.

The second situation is similar to above but is on a 2 X 6 wall that has siding mimicking the log design and does not have any OSB material. Although the siding pieces are relatively flush, they still create variation in the jamb dimension, nominally 4 5/8" but varying by 1/2" within one window - see second pic. Here, I'm thinking I have to put the trim on first and then hold up a wide jam and scribe to the trim piece. However, I don't think I can cut that scribe line very accurately to get the jam-to-trim joint at the reveal to look very good. All this is being done with stained cedar lumber so caulking to fix anomalies is out although I am using a solid stain that might cover wood putty.

Are there any other options that will make it a more professional looking job?

Thanks for your replies!


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## Scrappygirl (Jun 2, 2017)

I'm not an expert and so can't really offer any great advice, but I can throw out an opinion!
My opinion is to go with the option in #3 or just do trim on inside of frame so it doesn't overlap the wood but extends to the end of it, if that makes sense. The one with OSB sticking out, I wonder if you could cut it half way down, and cut a rabbit in the trim to overlap it. And hide it Just thoughts. I hope you are able to find a solution. Good luck!


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Hello DBBWoodworking,

As a Timberwright and restoration specialist we work often on live edge, stone and related texture surfaces like this. Your "thinking" on this is sound and well thought out from what I have read...

Most of this is..."style"...not a correct/incorrect system approach for the most part...

As to scribing, a Bubble Scribe can render a very snug fit, as can several of the traditional templating, stylus transfer, "Coining" and related "scribing modalities." Most (if not all) of these would be very difficult to effectively describe in a forum. There are some videos (not many in English) on the internet that covers the basics I have been told. This is a craft skill hard to glean without direct teaching...

A simple "Infill" casement around the window and no trim can render a clean look as well. A very common modern "clean look" often gone for by many Interior Designers today. Its much simpler to achieve than the other systems.

The next that may fit your tastes is a trimmed window with a "Shadow Line." With this methods you actually place a spacer on your framework so it stands away from the wall forming a consistent shadow (or reveal) line...

Good Luck!


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

DBB this is the style/trick I used in a very uneven wall old log trim. This is a style I've seen in some older homes and I tweeked it to my needs. 
This is extreme from what you need BUT you'll see the idea...yours is so flat it may not need scribing just adjust for each window/door being trimmed.

Before








After








The next 3 , sorry orientated wrong.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*style vs sealing ...*

The jamb can be extended into the room from 1/8" to 1/4" beyond the most intrusive log. Then capped with casing leaving a reveal or shadow behind for "style". 

Another issue is sealing for cold air intrusion, a whole 'nother issue. You would want an air tight seal in between the jamb and the logs which were probably not cut entirely even/flush with one another ... which allows for some expansion or contraction.... foam weather strip, spray in foam, caulking, something? This may or may not affect the style and construction of the window surround, I donno? But before calling it finished it would be my choice to deal with this issue. :smile3:


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

LOL....these aren't logs at least in one pic....it's 1x T&G on studs....hmmm.... the trim ought to lay pretty flat UNLESS awful crooked/bowed stud.

there's 2 votes... Jay and Woodnthings both mentioned shadow edges.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Awesome Photos and work Tim...!!!

Great example of modern repurposing with a solid nod to the past and methods of repurposing these old structures...

Here is one of my projects from back in the day but a good example for here perhaps?

Sorry the first one is a little dark...I don't do pictures much...










Note...This is a modern reconstruct in a mixed modality of several log and plank architectural formats for several different cultures. The walls are over 350mm (~14") thick and insulated with mineral wool and clad in 75mm log plank...Some of these over 900mm wide and all green wood when installed...


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## DBBWoodworking (May 24, 2017)

Thanks for all the responses! It looks like the consensus is for shadow edges. If I understand you all correctly, that means that, in my case, I would make the jamb wider than the widest point on the timber and add some, let's say 1/2". Then the 2 1/2" trim would go over that with a reveal. At the outside of the trim, I would scribe a 1/2"+ return that would set against the logs and attach to the back of the trim piece. That would look nice. Now the question is whether my variations warrant that much effort....we'll see.



Tennessee Tim said:


> LOL....these aren't logs at least in one pic....it's 1x T&G on studs....hmmm.... the trim ought to lay pretty flat UNLESS awful crooked/bowed stud.


Yes, one of the situations is siding on 2 x 6 studs. They are pretty flat but for what ever reason (read as bad carpentry), some are less flat than others!

Well, I've got 24 windows to do so better get cracking!

Thanks again for your effort.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Awesome.....Jay, In the first pic are the sides of doors and windows scribed or shadowed and filled with chinking. I couldn't tell by the pic.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

DBBWoodworking said:


> Thanks for all the responses! It looks like the consensus is for shadow edges. If I understand you all correctly, that means that, in my case, I would make the jamb wider than the widest point on the timber and add some, let's say 1/2". Then the 2 1/2" trim would go over that with a reveal. At the outside of the trim, I would scribe a 1/2"+ return that would set against the logs and attach to the back of the trim piece. That would look nice. Now the question is whether my variations warrant that much effort....we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You decide the thickness of your shadow 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, whatever...... lets for quicky say your using 1x6 nominal = 5 1/2" casing.... the shadow could be up to roughly 4 1/2" wide or just a thin strip depending on the window side and things having to work around/over as osb sticking out. IF this can be left natural IF 1/2 you may want finished as trim OR paint the edge flat black. This sits in 1/8 to 1/4 " or more behind log exposed edge of trim making it to appear to float. This website needs a drawing pad!!!! I can do that much easier!!!!


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

Hi Tim...Some have a scribed edging board while others are simply caulked with Hemp/Flax fiber Oakum...


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