# Sealant for spalted wood



## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Have a 2" thick spalted maple slab designated for a sofa table top. Plan is/was BLO then a clear protective coat to match an earlier chair I built. 
The wood continues to absorb copious amounts of oil. I'm worried it won't dry well that deep in the wood. Can I use a shellac or sanding sealer or something to seal this off. What won't be bothered by the oil and will still take a varnish or lacquer top coat


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

The oil which has already been absorbed into the wood is going to prevent any finish from adhering to the wood.

You will like y need to allow the oil to completely absorb so there is not free oil, then allow time for the surface to oxidize before you attempt to apply a finish.

It will take some time for the oil to dry. I think you need to give this piece a lot of time before you go to a next step.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

There is no free oil on the surface. What I rubbed in is curing nicely on part but on 1/3 the oil all absorbed leaving none on the surface


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Normally I do a varnish blo thinner cocktail but with that much oil under it it will likely lift the varnish as it cures


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## mattk8715 (Jan 22, 2010)

Do a practice piece first, but I JUST got done reading all about this process. Here's a couple good links to what you're talking about. They're pretty lengthy, but good reads.

From what I understand, the shellac over the BLO will give it a lot more depth- so I hope that's what you want. You can control the sheen based on how you polish it, but it will add depth to it for sure.

Here's the links:
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/jeff/padding_shellac.htm

This next link is referring to finishing cherry, but I'd imagine the same rules would apply to your spalted maple:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Linseed_Oil_Tung_Oil_Shellac_Varnish.html

That board is beautiful BTW. Love the natural finish.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Thanks Matt that helps a lot. Yes some depth is what I would like. In fact it looks perfect for 15 seconds after I pour on the BLO.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I would have just used a polyurethane varnish. Since you have put linseed oil on it I would let it dry a couple of days before doing anything else. You can use shellac, lacquer or varnish over the top. Linseed oil is a binder in oil based stains however useing it uncut it needs more drying time.


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## DST (Jan 10, 2011)

Thanks Steve. With the weather we are having my shop is warm and dry. Sit and wait it is. Fortunately like most of us here I have a few other projects I can do while that cures


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## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

DST,
I would go with an oil base poly. I imagine a sofa table is likely to have drinks on it and poly is better protection. It may take more than a couple days for the oil to cure enough to cover it.


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