# Router Blues, I dread using my router.



## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I don’t know what it is exactly, but I dread it every time I have to use a router. It’s such a chore for me to do anything with a router. Today I wanted to cut 2 simple dados and it took me almost a half hour just to set the depth. The adjustment ring was stuck so I managed to get it as far as could then just moved the bit the rest of the way. I also always have to make a jig or something to cut a straight line and the jig always seems to be a onetime use thing. The only reason I didn’t use my RAS was because the piece I was cutting was fastened down and I didn’t want to align it again after taking it apart. 
I have three routers, 2 Craftsman, a ¼”1970’s model & a newer 1/2“ model. I also have a cheap Black & Decker with a broken base and I got to say it’s probably the easiest to use. If it wasn’t for the small size and broken base, I would only use it. I do use it every chance I get.
Is there something I can use to lubricate those plastic threads on my ½” Craftsman? I don’t want to use WD40 because I’m afraid it will get on the wood. And is there a universal router jig I can make or buy?


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Hey sleeper I use the tablesaw with a stack dado to cut dado's. I'm trying to work on nice router tables but with 3 kids there's always something.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Sounds like a new model router would solve the issue. I have a Bosch plunge router and setting the depth is easy. Put the bit in, push the router down until it hits the table which is now your zero point and then use the stop to set any depth you want. Push the router down to the depth and lock. Route away. Sometimes the tool can get in the way of the project. Sometimes it is time to get rid of that tool.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

rrbrown said:


> Hey sleeper I use the tablesaw with a stack dado to cut dado's. I'm trying to work on nice router tables but with 3 kids there's always something.


Oh, I know about having 3 kids. Now the kids are grown up and I have a 2 year old grandson following me around.  :laughing:
I’ve been trying figure out something for a router table and I looked at several differant plans. I have a small Craftsman table that never really worked for me and now I’m trying to learn how to sell it on eBay. Someone in this forum has a router table on their table saw, but they mentioned that they hated it, so I’ve been holding off on doing that.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Leo G said:


> Sounds like a new model router would solve the issue. I have a Bosch plunge router and setting the depth is easy. Put the bit in, push the router down until it hits the table which is now your zero point and then use the stop to set any depth you want. Push the router down to the depth and lock. Route away. Sometimes the tool can get in the way of the project. Sometimes it is time to get rid of that tool.


I bought the Craftsman during some big sale and got an extra discount for have the Craftsman card. It looked good at the time, but I have not been very happy with it. I learned about the plunge routers right after I bought it.
I think you are right, maybe I need a new router.:yes:


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Always a good time to buy a new tool :thumbsup:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Leo G said:


> Always a good time to buy a new tool :thumbsup:


You should tell that to my wife. :laughing:


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Here's a secret. By the time the wife finds out that you want a new tool, you should already have it. May put you in the dog house for a while, but at least you have the tool to make the dog house a nice place to be. :laughing:


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## Clouseau (Mar 22, 2009)

I have at least 5 or 6 routers. Some date back to the early 1960's. There are few keys to help the time and aggrivation factors:
1. keep dedicated wrenches with the routers or in your bit box
2. keep the base waxed with Johnson's Wax or Minwax
3. clear bases are easier to see around
4. feed the correct direction
5. use good *clean and sharp* bits
6. most of the time 1/2 shank bits will outperform 1/4 shank bits
7. use clamps, straight edges and jigs to hold work and guide router
8. make sure base is centered and screws are below surface
9. use a stick ruler or depth guage, not a tape measure
10. take roughing cuts and finishing cuts
11. have fun....it is one of the most useful and versitile tools in the shop


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I do not think it has any thing to do with the router.

You state that you have to make a "jig" just to cut a straight line. Of course you do. Nobody can route a straight line without some type of guide.

Adjustment rings or whatever are normally a problem with preventive maintenance. Usually not a fault of the machine. Keep it cleaned and oiled.

Practise with the router so that you are comfortable using it. Setting the depth of cut on any router is not easy unless you have practised doing so in either practise time or in use time.

I really believe that you have psyched yourself out on using a router.

G


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Sleeper said:


> Oh, I know about having 3 kids. Now the kids are grown up and I have a 2 year old grandson following me around.
> :laughing:
> We have a 2 YO grand daughter and a 3+YO grandson. Both, soon to be in Okinawa for 4 years. I wish they were following me around.
> 
> I’ve been trying figure out something for a router table and I looked at several differant plans. I have a small Craftsman table that never really worked for me and now I’m trying to learn how to sell it on eBay. Someone in this forum has a router table on their table saw, but they mentioned that they hated it, so I’ve been holding off on doing that.


My router table is attached to my table saw table and I love it. If I were into production (I'm a hobby woodworker) I'd want separate units....and more shop space!


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

I have 4 routers. Two old Sears that I no longer use and 2 Porter Cable routers. I have the 3 1/2 hp PC mounted on the router table (I built Norm's design) and the other PC is a 690 with bot a fixed and a plunge bas in a carry case. They are great ot use once you discover a few tricks. Get the brass set up block kit from Rockler. It makes setting bit depth a breeze. I made an adjustable dadoe jig that is quick and easy to set up and cuts the dadoe exactly the width I need.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> You state that you have to make a "jig" just to cut a straight line. Of course you do. Nobody can route a straight line without some type of guide.
> 
> Adjustment rings or whatever are normally a problem with preventive maintenance. Usually not a fault of the machine. Keep it cleaned and oiled.
> 
> G


I guess I didn’t word that right. It’s time consuming to make a jig each time, but I just downloaded plans for an adjustable jig from woodsmith so I will not have to do that anymore.

As far as the adjustment ring goes, I know if I hit it with some WD40, that it will loosen up. I was told not to do that because sawdust will stick to the oil and the oil can soak into the piece I’m working on. I once used wax on some drawer guides, and the wax hardened causing the drawers to stick, so I don’t want to use wax. If you could recommend something, that would be great. I do try to keep it clean and I keep it in a covered plastic box that cat litter comes in.

I’m seriously thinking about buying another combo router and removing the base of the one I got and permanently mounting it into a router table with a separate depth adjustment.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Gene Howe said:


> My router table is attached to my table saw table and I love it. If I were into production (I'm a hobby woodworker) I'd want separate units....and more shop space!


He Gene! When my son went to Okinawa, he left his 2 kids here with us and it was a real sad time when they left. So now I’m really enjoying having this one around. I don’t know for how long, but I like coming home from work and hearing him laughing. :yes:
I just upgraded my table saw and have a 12”x27” space on the end that I don’t know what to do with. I’m still thinking about a router table because I don’t have a lot of room for another table.


johnv51 said:


> I have 4 routers. Two old Sears that I no longer use and 2 Porter Cable routers. I have the 3 1/2 hp PC mounted on the router table (I built Norm's design) and the other PC is a 690 with bot a fixed and a plunge bas in a carry case. They are great ot use once you discover a few tricks. Get the brass set up block kit from Rockler. It makes setting bit depth a breeze. I made an adjustable dadoe jig that is quick and easy to set up and cuts the dadoe exactly the width I need.


And Johnv51, that’s a nice table. I just wish I had more room.
I have that brass set up kit in my shopping cart, just trying to figure out what else I need.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Well, I broke down and sprayed all the threads with WD40 and it is a little easier, but I think there is something wrong with the lock. The lever only moves 90 deg from lock to unlock and I don’t know if that’s what it’s supposed to do, but its way too hard.


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## SailorCharon (Jun 9, 2009)

Couldn't you take a piece of wood and clamp it parallel to the cut you want to make and then just snug the router up to the plywood as you go? That would let you route straight lines at least (although you might need to get a few different pieces of wood for different lengths).


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## Clouseau (Mar 22, 2009)

WD40 leaves an oily residue. Try LPS-1 on the ring and other mechanisms. It leaves a dry residue. You could also use silicone, especially the food grade, but not on the base platel. Minwax or Johnson's paste is the best for the base plates. If your base plates are scarred you might try rubbing them on some 1000 grit wet-dry paper on a flat surface, then wax.

PS: I love your high tech storage box. I use tuperware for saw blades, dado blades, bandsaw blades and other stuff.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Amazon.com: Milescraft 1203 TurnLock Router Circle and Edge Cutting Guide: Home Improvement

Circle cutting / edge guide. I own one and it works fine. HOWEVER I had to replace the knobs with 1/4" - 20TPI star knobs from Rockler. The OE plastic ones are plain and simple trash...

For measuring your router depth, use a conbination square.
Amazon.com: Johnson Level & Tool 400EM 12-Inch English/Metric Metal Combination Square: Home Improvement

As far as lubricants go, try LPS Dry Moly Lube. Pretty sure just about any local Ace Hardware should have that...

Not a huge fan of B&D routers, I own 3 routers, one of which is a B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have learned to hate that router... Pieces are simply falling off of it.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

SailorCharon said:


> Couldn't you take a piece of wood and clamp it parallel to the cut you want to make and then just snug the router up to the plywood as you go? That would let you route straight lines at least (although you might need to get a few different pieces of wood for different lengths).


Sailor, I was actually trying put two ¾” dados across an 18” wide board with a 1/2 “ bit and I needed to make two passes so I clamped two boards on the piece with the router between. I had a ¾” bit but I dropped it trying to adjust the depth and the carbide cutter broke off. 



Clouseau said:


> PS: I love your high tech storage box. I use tuperware for saw blades, dado blades, bandsaw blades and other stuff.


Yeah, those kitty litter containers come in real handy. The only problem is that they get mixed up with the rest of the stuff I got in litter containers and I can’t find anything. :laughing:



dbhost said:


> Amazon.com: Milescraft 1203 TurnLock Router Circle and Edge Cutting Guide: Home Improvement
> 
> Circle cutting / edge guide. I own one and it works fine. HOWEVER I had to replace the knobs with 1/4" - 20TPI star knobs from Rockler. The OE plastic ones are plain and simple trash...
> 
> ...


I already got a combination square, in fact I have several thanks. But that Milescraft 1203 is pretty cool, I’m going to get one of those. :thumbsup:
My black & Decker was a free thing that someone gave me. I can’t say much except that it is easy and small enough to get into tight corners. It came in handy last Christmas on my train display when I needed to remove some wood under my already decorated tree. It fit perfectly when even my sawzaw would not fit.:yes:


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## drbob1 (Feb 5, 2009)

*Router Blues*

I have had the same problem with a cheaper Craftsman router. I now have a better Craftsman and don't have the problem - yet. I also use Porter Cable which will never have that problem because of its design. I recently included a review of routers on my blog that may help you decide which router is best for your needs. Here is the link: http://www.woodworkingtipsandtools.com/2009/02/02/wood-router-reviews/


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## Claudette Scott (Jul 17, 2009)

My husband lost the user's manual for my new Chicago Electric 1/4" router. Since I've never used a router before I don't even know how to put it together. Does anyone have a manual showing the basics on putting this thing together?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Chicago Electric = Harbor Freight*

I believe Harbor Freight has an online owner's manual download. www.harborfreight.com Make sure the router is UNPLUGGED! Now, there's not much to "setting up" a router other than inserting a bit into the collect which will accept the 1/4" bits, tightening the collet with the wrench provided and the collect lock, if provided, spinning the bit by hand to check for clearances in the base plate, and then turning the motor on. If it makes a normal high speed whirring sound, it's probably OK. Usually start with a round over bit with a bushing attached to control the depth. Feed the router slowly into the work which should be securely clamped down) from left to right. An excellent site for all router questions is : www.routerforums.com but we will answer all you can throw at us!:laughing: bill


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

As far as lubricants go, try LPS Dry Moly Lube. Pretty sure just about any local Ace Hardware should have that...

Be careful with the application of dry Moly Lube to any sliding surfaces. My experience has been that if overdone the moly will clump up eventually into a horrible lumpy mess. There is a clear spray on lube that dries absolutely on the surfaces it is sprayed on, so it will not pick up dust. Unfortunately, I cannot remember what it is called. Perhaps someone else knows of it. I do use LPS a lot, and it works, but you do have to watch out for excess getting onto your wood.

Gerry


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Sleeper - Save your lunch money and gift cash for a short while, and buy yourself a Hitachi M12VC for ~ $80-$90 on sale. Refurbs can be as low as $60. Having owned some very nice smaller routers (PC690, Bosch 1617, Freud FT1700, Milwaukee 5615), I can honestly say that I find the Hitachi the one I reach for most....I realize YMMV. It's not the most ruggedly made, not the most powerful, not the prettiest, not the heaviest, doesn't have the most above table features, but it is the most bang for the buck, is very comfortable to me, and is plenty "good nuff" to do the job well. It has variable speed, ample power, is well balanced, light, dependable, and quiet. It can also come with a plunger as a kit. The bargain aspect is secondary to how nice it is to use. :thumbsup:


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## GG2 (Feb 15, 2012)

*this blade will do what you're looking to do...*


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

knotscott said:


> Sleeper - Save your lunch money and gift cash for a short while, and buy yourself a Hitachi M12VC for ~ $80-$90 on sale. Refurbs can be as low as $60. Having owned some very nice smaller routers (PC690, Bosch 1617, Freud FT1700, Milwaukee 5615), I can honestly say that I find the Hitachi the one I reach for most....I realize YMMV. It's not the most ruggedly made, not the most powerful, not the prettiest, not the heaviest, doesn't have the most above table features, but it is the most bang for the buck, is very comfortable to me, and is plenty "good nuff" to do the job well. It has variable speed, ample power, is well balanced, light, dependable, and quiet. It can also come with a plunger as a kit. The bargain aspect is secondary to how nice it is to use. :thumbsup:


 
:thumbsup: M12VC has become my go to also...:smile:


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

GG2 said:


> RECIPRO-CURVE SAW BLADES - YouTube


 It’s funny that this thread popped up again because I’m in the market for a router table.
Wow, that’s some blade, but I wonder how long it took to learn how to handle that saw so well. I feel that I’m pretty good with my Saw-Zaw, but that’s a near perfect hole.:blink:
I ended up finding a PC 890 on clearance at Lowes. It was missing the collet and whatever else came with it, but I’m still not much better off than before. I’m still looking for a good adjustable jig that I can set up fast. 








As for the table I’ve decided that I just can’t afford the space on my TS. Yesterday I was looking at the Ryobi 32 in. x 16 in. Intermediate Router Table A25RT02 at Home Depot. I haven’t had time to do any research on it, but for the money it looks OK. I don’t know yet


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

> As for the table I’ve decided that I just can’t afford the space on my TS. Yesterday I was looking at the Ryobi 32 in. x 16 in. Intermediate Router Table A25RT02 at Home Depot. I haven’t had time to do any research on it, but for the money it looks OK. I don’t know yet


If you have an extension table on your ts, a router doesn't take up any space, other than, below it. 
I don't think much of the Ryobi table.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Pirate said:


> If you have an extension table on your ts, a router doesn't take up any space, other than, below it.
> I don't think much of the Ryobi table.


 That’s kind of the problem. I have a small shop and the only place I can find to put my joiner/planer is under the TS. I’ve tried moving it all over the shop, but I like it best right where it is. Plus it’s handy to set stuff on when I’m using the TS. I don’t use it much and keep cardboard on it to keep it clean.









Oh and I gave up on the Ryobi table. I'm going to go with the MLCS table. http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/tabletop.html


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## tt1106 (Apr 10, 2009)

I remember when my told me to buy the best tool I could afford. That has changed over time. In the beginning there was Ryobi, skil, black and decker. I have a craftsman router and a skil. I bought the Bosch a few years ago and I haven't used the others since. A high quality tool is a joy to use. I'm sure the Porter Cable is just as nice.


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

I use Porter Cable and Bosch, but only as a very last resort, when nothing else will work. They see very little use, unlike my shaper which is pretty busy.


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

Sleeper said:


> That’s kind of the problem. I have a small shop and the only place I can find to put my joiner/planer is under the TS. I’ve tried moving it all over the shop, but I like it best right where it is. Plus it’s handy to set stuff on when I’m using the TS. I don’t use it much and keep cardboard on it to keep it clean.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hey, that jointer looks familiar. 

I think I have the same Craftsman router you were having problems with a couple of years ago. I finally lubed up the plastic thread with some WD-40, but I'm going to grab some dry lube and try that as well.

What size shop do you have? I can fit a full-size router table in my 12x12 shop.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

cocheseuga said:


> ....
> I think I have the same Craftsman router you were having problems with a couple of years ago. I finally lubed up the plastic thread with some WD-40, but I'm going to grab some dry lube and try that as well.
> 
> What size shop do you have? I can fit a full-size router table in my 12x12 shop.


 Ya, I just realized that I may have another problem with the craftsman. I was planning on mounting it permanently in a router table without the base using a lift, but then it occurred to me that the switch is in the base handle. I’m not sure what I’m going to do now.

My shop is a 3 car garage but I have to share it with my wife's car.


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

This is what I use - http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&site=ROCKLER

As for your router table, you could always think vertically. With my shop redesign, mine is going to slide under a counter. You could even use it as your miter saw stand.


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## woodrouterreviewguy (Mar 2, 2012)

I have a variety of routers that I have used in the past. I have favorites depending on the job at hand. I think a previous poster mentioned Porter Cable. I think they make one of the best overall routers on the market with the 7518 model.

Here's a video on it....

http://www.bestwoodrouterreviews.ne...amp-3-14-hp-fixed-base-5-speed-router-review/


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## Clouseau (Mar 22, 2009)

*router switch*

If your Cman router is the older version of that style the switch is in the micro switch is in the top of the motor controlled by a cable to the "switch lever" in the handle, and you are stuck with the handle. If it is the newer version of that style, the switch is in the handle and can be eliminated by adding a longer cord and connecting it to a toggle switch mounted on/under your table.
Dan Coleman


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

Clouseau said:


> If your Cman router is the older version of that style the switch is in the micro switch is in the top of the motor controlled by a cable to the "switch lever" in the handle, and you are stuck with the handle. If it is the newer version of that style, the switch is in the handle and can be eliminated by adding a longer cord and connecting it to a toggle switch mounted on/under your table.
> Dan Coleman


That's what I thought because it's the older one shown back in post #13.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

As far as router depth and bit from router fence set up I recommend these. Also useful for TS blade heights up to 1/2 ".






Their a bit pricey but worth is as far as I'm concerned.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

cocheseuga said:


> This is what I use - http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&site=ROCKLER
> 
> As for your router table, you could always think vertically. With my shop redesign, mine is going to slide under a counter. You could even use it as your miter saw stand.


I know I'm gonna sound like a Kreg rep here but compare the Rockler switch to this. 

This switch will turn on the router (or any other tool) and dust collector at the same time.

http://www.kregtool.com/MultiPurpose-Router-Table-Switch-Prodview.html


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Claudette Scott said:


> My husband lost the user's manual for my new Chicago Electric 1/4" router. Since I've never used a router before I don't even know how to put it together. Does anyone have a manual showing the basics on putting this thing together?


Try a Google search for "user manual chigaco electric model #_ _ _ _, PDF"


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