# How Much can a French Cleat Handle?



## GreyhoundGuy (Mar 18, 2017)

In a previous post, I mentioned I'm hoping to make some cabinets for my garage. I think I'm going to pass on the face frames for now and build frameless cabinets. At this point, I don't need pretty cabinets... just cabinets! (Doors will come later.)

My plan is to build six cabinets that are each 30" wide, 24" high, and 16" deep. Joinery will be glue and pocket screws. The cleats will eventually be covered by 1/4" hardboard.

The cleat on the back is a french cleat, cut at a 45 degree angle to match with the hanging cleat portion on the wall. My question is... how much weight can a french cleat handle?

If I've got my math correct, I can build the box of the cabinet from half of a 4' x 8' sheet of basic pine plywood, so 4' x 4'. I think that will weigh 32 pounds on its own, not including the items that go inside the cabinet, nor including the items that go on top of the cabinet as storage.

EDIT: Just realized I didn't include a shelf in the SketchUp... so there's also that weight.

Can a french cleat handle that type of weight? And if so, what kind of wood should the french cleat be made from? Or am I better off just screwing directly into the studs and have them be permanently mounted?

As always, thanks in advance!

-Joel


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

They can handle a lot of weight depending on the design build and joinery...

Is it me, or is the cleat in the drawing backwards or em I seeing it wrong?


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## GuitarPhotographer (Jun 26, 2015)

Yes, the french cleat in the drawing is wrong,


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## GreyhoundGuy (Mar 18, 2017)

Thanks, I'll edit that in my plans. It was late when putting the sketch together... I wasn't firing on all cylinders. :wink:

It sounds like because of the load I'll be putting on the cabinets, it's probably best if I just mount them into the studs and call it good, not even worrying about the french cleat. It'll make it more of a bother later when adding the face frames, but I think it's the best call.

Thanks, all.

-Joel


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

The cleat can handle the weight, but then the entire weight of the cabinet will be on the joint between the cleat and the sides and the top. If those joints aren’t really good, the weight of the contents will pull them apart. If you don’t need for the cabinets to be removeable, adding a cleat to the bottom and screwing both the top cleat and the bottom cleat to the studs would distribute the weight better. Adding a bottom cleat and screwing it to the wall will also help prevent the 28-1/2” span at the bottom from sagging.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I've built wall cabinets 24" deep, 30" tall and 96" long before and hung them with french cleats. Even without the contents the cabinet was heavy as they were made out of MDF. The french cleats were made out of plywood though and everything was glued and screwed together.


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## 35015 (Nov 24, 2012)

GreyhoundGuy said:


> Thanks, I'll edit that in my plans. It was late when putting the sketch together... I wasn't firing on all cylinders. :wink:


Joel...we've all been there!! LOL :vs_laugh:

Bottom line...

Of all the hanging methods I know of, the greatest loads I've seen (and the system I have turned to the most) is always going to hang on a Cleat attachment. You won't find a stronger way to hang wall cabinetry or distribute the load to the wall diaphragm better than you Cleat.

With that stated...There design and material make up is the key challenge. Solid wood is going to be stronger than ply, but I don't see that as an issue for your intended loads.


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## sbrader (Aug 27, 2015)

I have hundreds of pounds hanging on french cleats; just make sure the wall side of the cleat is securely anchored into studs and the cabinet is built to handle having the weight hanging on the cabinet side of the cleat. An additional cleat across the bottom of the cabinet for more screws into the studs couldn't hurt for securing heavy cabinets. 

Scott


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

the cleat system can handle substantial weight. it has more to do on how it is implemented. the biggest issue is how many studs is the wall cleat going to reach or be attached to. if only one, then make it 8" or more tall and use 3-4 screws into that stud.


then the cabinet cleat will need to be attached very well to cabinet.


I use a 3/4" thick x 3-4" wide hanging cleat on the top and bottom of my wall cabinets backs, then use 2 (headed) screws each, into every stud. never had a problem. and easy to remove if needed.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

From looking at your drawing, I am assuming the wall cleat will be shorter than the cabinet so the cabinet will hang flush with the wall. Am I right? Seems the wall cleat(s) will have to be installed so the cabinets won't be adjustable side ways.

When I built mine, I attached a long wall cleat so the cabinets could be moved as needed. Once in place, I drove a screw through the cabinet cleat into each stud. The cabinets are not going anywhere. Now, saying that, the cabinet is proud of the wall by 3/4 inch and each cabinet has a spacer attached to to lower part of the cabinet so it hangs properly.

Good luck. I don't think you will have any problems with the French cleat style of mounting the cabinets.


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