# Unifence sacrificial fence



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Unifences are not the easiest fence to add sacrificial fences to because of the shape.

Sure you can use the generic fence clamps but if you find your self in a spot where you need one and can't wait for them in the mail, here ya go...

From need to have: 15 min...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*nice workout tom!*

Very clever and you're correct about the unusual shape being difficult to attach to. I didn't have the mental energy to go through what you did so I just removed the stock fence and started from there. I took a long piece of oak, and jointed it flat and square and planed it a uniform thickness, drilled 2 counter bores for the long bolts and like you say done in 15 mins or less. 

BTW I faced my stock fence with a exact fit piece of HPL, white Formica.
It slides real nice with that face down and keeps the aluminum lookin' pretty.
I really like this fence because you can extend it for and aft and flip it 90 degrees to get a low section and clearance for your hand when ripping narrow pieces. :thumbsup: bill
Oh Yah, I forget to mention I had an extra fence head and keep this one set up permanently for quick and easy rabbets using the far right hand saw of the Triple 12.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Bill, I like the idea of having an extra fence to throw on! I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for a used one to snatch up!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Very cool you guys. I like both solutions. :thumbsup:


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## mickit (Oct 5, 2009)

Tom I like your solution...I've been using one like WT's for quite some time. Just hard to find stock that'll stay still here in the south Texas humidity. Clampin' a piece to the aluminum seems like a reasonable solution.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You may want to laminate one*

And you don't really need a separate head since the wood can be replaced with the factory fence by removing the nuts or speed knobs on the right side of the head.  bill


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Do a search for Hifax........its used extensively in conveyor world as "wear strips"....I think its also used on snowmoblies for the same.Its about the ideal material for TS fences.BW


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

An easy solution for the Unifence are channel nuts. They slide in the channel of the fence and then stay in position, sacrificial fences are bolted on, countersink the holes in the fence for flat head bolts.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=48601&ucst=t


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## Visions (Jun 16, 2011)

You guys all have some good ideas here, and all appear they will work well.

Although I don't have a Uni-Fence, mine is more of a Biesemeyer style (I welded it up myself), I have come up with a pretty decent solution that could easily be adapted to most any fence, though you need to be willing to drill a few holes.

What I did was mount 2 strips of T-Track on the face of my fence, one 1/2" up from the bottom, the other 1/2" from the top, then I cut some UHMW plastic (same thickness as the T-Track) to fill in the gaps and to give a nice flat surface. I also added 2 strips of T-Track along the top on each side, which come in super handy for attaching all sorts of jigs and hold-downs.

For you guys with the Uni-Fence, one thing you may want to look into is aluminum extrusion from 80/20 ( http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-4.asp) as you could just slide your fence off, slide on a piece of extrusion and have plenty of T-Slots to attach sub-fences and jigs to. 
You could also use a really long extrusion as a fence for straight-line-ripping, as well all know, the longer the fence, the straighter the rip.

Wayne


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*plus 1 on the straight line rip*

I have a 10' 5" piece of 2" x 2" aluminum extrusion which I run against the fence hold the 2 contact points of a curved board tightly against. This allows for a darn near perfect straight rip.
Takes a little practice but beats a jointer in every way possible and takes less time, especially on long boards. But they must be less than 10' 5"....:yes: bill


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> I have a 10' 5" piece of 2" x 2" aluminum extrusion which I run against the fence hold the 2 contact points of a curved board tightly against. This allows for a darn near perfect straight rip.
> Takes a little practice but beats a jointer in every way possible and takes less time, especially on long boards. But they must be less than 10' 5"....:yes: bill


Nice, I use a 10' jig with hold downs on it...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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