# Thoughts on older craftsman 113.298762 table saw?



## Michael_JL (Apr 1, 2013)

What is general concensus on this saw? I believe it was made by Emerson, but is there any way to confirm that? Are there any know problem areas? What do I need to check before commiting? What would be a good price for that unit assuming in good working order?

Thanks for any assistance, this would be my first table saw.


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## sweensdv (Mar 3, 2008)

The 113 prefix does indicate that the saw was manufactured by Emerson. I'm not sure which particular model that saw is but if it's one of the Craftsman saws that are similar to the Emerson made Ridgid contractors saws then it's a fairly well built saw. Anywhere between $200-$300 would be a fair selling point depending on condition of the saw of course.


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## notskot (Feb 22, 2015)

The 113.298762 was one of the top models AFAIK. Will likely have the grated cast wings, metal handwheels, and the notorious Emerson steel fence. It should have the basic bones to make for a good serviceable saw if in good condition. If it still has the original Emerson steel fence, and not the upgraded Exacti-rip or Aluma-rip fences, it'd be worth consideration for a fence update at some point....figure ~ $125 for the Exacti-rip or Aluma-rip type fences, and closer $200 for something better like a Delta T3. In good shape and complete with blade guard, miter gauge, inserts, etc, I'd consider the saw worth upwards of $200-$250 (less is better)...if has an updated fence or some really good extras, I'd consider going a bit more. If it's rough, $100 or so is about what the motor and switch are worth if it runs well. Those older style metal handwheels can add some value if it has those. Note that some of them state a misleading "3hp" on the front of the saw, but the motor plate will clearly state 1hp or 1.5hp, which is the more realistic actual sustainable rating.

Dirt, light rust, and "patina" cleanup pretty well. Pitted rust might be problematic if its really bad. Check underneath for bad rust and obvious signs of cracked castings, damage, etc. Most everything else can be lubed, cleaned, adjusted, or easily replaced.

Will likely look something like this:









Better to have this fence:


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## subroc (Jan 3, 2015)

I agree with much of what "notskot" said.

It is a contractor saw with a 1 1/2 hp motor. A saw with good bones to be sure but I wouldn't pay more than $100 for it if it has the original fence. If you pay considerably more than that say $200 or $250 and then upgrade to a T3 your into the the saw for somewhere around $400. If you are planning on spending $400 use that as your used price point right from the start and see what is available for that much money or add another $200 and get a new 13 amp delta for $600.

Not trying to talk you out of it or into it especially considering my current saw is a similar contractor saw (113.299410), just trying to give you some idea that buying a saw with the intention of upgrading should be considered when budgeting for the saw purchase in the first place.

My point, a 113 contractor saw without a good fence is worth $100 or less. A contractor saw with a good fence might be worth $100 or a $150 more. They show upon Craigslist all the time in those price range.


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## MarkZ402 (12 mo ago)

I just inherited this same saw. Is anyone aware of a motor upgrade for this saw that is truly 3 hp?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Why does the saw need to be ungraded?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

MarkZ402 said:


> I just inherited this same saw. Is anyone aware of a motor upgrade for this saw that is truly 3 hp?


A true 3 HP motor will only run on 240 volts. All those that claim to be 3 HP are using the same phony measuring system they use on shop vacs that claim 6.5 HP from a wall outlet. Bullfeathers!
One Horsepower is 745 Watts. Volts X Amps = watts. Look at the motor plate to see how many AMPs it draws then multiply by 120 Volts. Let's say 10 AMPs. 10 X 120 = 1200 watts. 1200 divided by 745 = 1.61 HP
Also be aware of the size power cord used to the motor. Do not use 16 Ga wire. use 14 GA on short runs. Use 12 GA always when possible. Don't use an outlet with other devices that draw a lot of current away from your tablesaw. It needs all the current the outlet can supply. A 20 AMP circuit is best, but a 15 AMP circuit will be marginal.
If you really have a need for a 3 HP motor, that is ripping 2 1/2" thick hardwoods for extended periods, there are 3 HP motors.
BUT, they are huge and heavy and will not work on the light duty motor bracket on contractor saws.
I installed a 2 HP 240V Baldor motor on mine and it was a "ripping monster". Too powerful for 90% of my work at the time. I removed it.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> I installed a 2 HP 240V Baldor motor on mine and it was a "ripping monster". Too powerful for 90% of my work at the time. I removed it.


I understand not buying more HP than you need but please expand on the reasons for removing the excess power once you have it. The force of possible kick backs?

The way I recall it, once an electric motor reaches it's design RPM it just draws enough current to stay at that RPM, so if your rip only needs 1 HP that is the power it draws.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Bob Bengal said:


> I understand not buying more HP than you need but please expand on the reasons for removing the excess power once you have it. The force of possible kick backs?
> 
> The way I recall it, once an electric motor reaches it's design RPM it just draws enough current to stay at that RPM, so if your rip only needs 1 HP that is the power it draws.


He may have just seen the added HP as a waste and used the motor elsewhere..


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

MarkZ402 said:


> I just inherited this same saw. Is anyone aware of a motor upgrade for this saw that is truly 3 hp?


I have essentially the same saw and see no reason for changing the motor.

Even the original fence works OK and gives good results. The main problem is that it more effort to get the fence properly aligned. But once aligned it is OK.

george


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Bob Bengal said:


> I understand not buying more HP than you need but please expand on the reasons for removing the excess power once you have it. *The force of possible kick backs?*
> The way I recall it, once an electric motor reaches it's design RPM it just draws enough current to stay at that RPM, so if your rip only needs 1 HP that is the power it draws.


It was about possible kickbacks.
Way back when I did this, the saw had a 1 HP Craftsman, brown motor, the good one. On rare occasions I could stall that motor by over feeding thicker stock.
Since I had the 3450 Baldor 2 HP from another machine? I can't recall what, and since the FEMA frame type 56 was the same, it was easy enough to swap out motors..
This was a stripped down full size cast iron table saw that I carried to jobsites BEFORE I swapped the motors. Now with it requiring240 volts that couldn't happen, so I used it strictly outdoors, mostly for sheet goods. This was also BEFORE I became religious about using my splitter. So, I had tremendous torque and no kickback prevention, it was too scary. It was an experiment that didn't fail exactly, it just wasn't safe. I also had my two other table saws for ripping thinker stock in the shop. 
I used the table for my triple 12" table saw combination as one of the spacers. I still have the 1 HP brown motor and the 2 HP Baldor on the shelf.
I also figured out that ripping thicker stock was much safer on the bandsaw.

Your statement about it only using the HP it needs is interesting, but I've never heard that before.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> Your statement about it only using the HP it needs is interesting, but I've never heard that before.


I think I read that on this forum, but I'm terrible about remembering the thread and poster of info. Makes sense though. And with a gasoline engine to keep the RPM constant while increasing the load you give it more gas & fuel, for going up hill etc.

Then there's variable speed electric motors that use AC, hand held corded drills etc, I haven't gotten my head around those lol.


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## rogerh (Sep 13, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> It was about possible kickbacks.
> Way back when I did this, the saw had a 1 HP Craftsman, brown motor, the good one. On rare occasions I could stall that motor by over feeding thicker stock.
> Since I had the 3450 Baldor 2 HP from another machine? I can't recall what, and since the FEMA frame type 56 was the same, it was easy enough to swap out motors..
> This was a stripped down full size cast iron table saw that I carried to jobsites BEFORE I swapped the motors. Now with it requiring240 volts that couldn't happen, so I used it strictly outdoors, mostly for sheet goods. This was also BEFORE I became religious about using my splitter. So, I had tremendous torque and no kickback prevention, it was too scary. It was an experiment that didn't fail exactly, it just wasn't safe. I also had my two other table saws for ripping thinker stock in the shop.
> ...


Bob wasn’t to one talking about the upgrade. If Mark's motor is running good, there is no reason to upgrade to a 3hp motor.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

rogerh said:


> Bob wasn’t to (the) one talking about the upgrade. If Mark's motor is running good,* there is no reason to upgrade to a 3hp motor.*


If you read my entire post, number 11, I was answering Bob's question... it's in quoted my post.
The first post I made mentioned the Baldor 2 HP motor, number 7.
You can't upgrade to a 3 HP motor and still run it on 120 volts NOR will it fit properly on a Craftsman type contractor saw because it's too large and heavy and will spring the mount or crack it. Only a 1.5 HP motor will work on 120 volts if my math is correct, But maybe a 2 HP on a 20 AMP dedicated circuit, however, it will be larger and heavier like the Harbor Freight motor.
I did a search for a type 56 mount and h found only one motor at a cost of $696.00. You can buy an entire Rigid table saw for less:





115048.00, 3 HP, 3600 RPM, 56HC FR, TEFC, 208-230 Vac, 1 PH, C Face w/Base, General Purpose


115048.00, 3 HP, 3600 RPM, 56HC FR, TEFC, 208-230 Vac, 1 PH, C Face w/Base, General Purpose Engineering Data Volts 208-230 Volts Volts F.L. Amps 14-13 F.L. Amps F.L. Amps S. F Amps S. F Amps S. F Amps -------------------------




www.industrialmotors.com


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## MarkZ402 (12 mo ago)

First, I have 220 in my shop and I am fully capable of wiring in whatever amperage I need. I appreciate the concerns for overkill, but to me unless I go over 3hp then that might be. I was just asking if there was a source for buying a motor with the proper size output shaft and turning the proper RPM for a table saw can be purchased. I will be needing enough power to comfortably rip and crosscut over 2" of hardwoods. I don't want to have to baby it through an under powered saw. I know they sell 3HP 220v saws but I didn't want to buy a brand new one if I could get something with more power than the 1/2 to 3/4 that it is probably turning out now. Advertised 3HP I understand isn't a true 3 HP especially on 120 volt circuit. Motor plate states 13 amps @ 120 volts. 
Another question I have is does the RPM on the upgraded motor have to match the old motor exactly when increasing the HP?
I appreciate the kind responces that are informative instead of criticizing.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

If the motor RPM is different from the original you can get the same blade RPM by changing the pulley diameter too. And likely a different length belt.

I'm one of the less experienced forum members, but I'd say get a saw that was designed for the HP you want, 3HP and that means 220. I'm not good at shopping for used stuff but there's a lot of those on the market if i you are patent. There are a lot of people that end up with good saws that way.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

If your 3 HP motor is too large, and too heavy, you may end up with a broken motor mount:








Broken motor mount, craftsman table saw 315.228390


Hello, I am new to this forum. I did some searching to see if this has been addressed, but didn't find anything. If there's a thread you can point me to where my question has already been answered, that would be great. I have a craftsman table saw model 315.228390, about 20 years old. I love...




www.woodworkingtalk.com




You will only find a 3 HP, 240 volt FEMA frame 56 mount on an industrial motor site, as I did. The Amazon selection has many 3 phase and compressor duty motors not suitable for your application. Good luck in your conversion.

If it were me, I'd sell the contractor saw and put that money towards a true cabinet saw which will already have a 3 HP motor.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

MarkZ402 said:


> I just inherited this same saw. Is anyone aware of a motor upgrade for this saw that is truly 3 hp?





woodnthings said:


> If it were me, I'd sell the contractor saw and put that money towards a true cabinet saw which will already have a 3 HP motor.


I'd say if you have the shop space keep the saw you have and buy a used 3HP one. With 2 saws you can have them set up differently, saves time changing blades etc.


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## rogerh (Sep 13, 2020)

MarkZ402 said:


> First, I have 220 in my shop and I am fully capable of wiring in whatever amperage I need. I appreciate the concerns for overkill, but to me unless I go over 3hp then that might be. I was just asking if there was a source for buying a motor with the proper size output shaft and turning the proper RPM for a table saw can be purchased. I will be needing enough power to comfortably rip and crosscut over 2" of hardwoods. I don't want to have to baby it through an under powered saw. I know they sell 3HP 220v saws but I didn't want to buy a brand new one if I could get something with more power than the 1/2 to 3/4 that it is probably turning out now. Advertised 3HP I understand isn't a true 3 HP especially on 120 volt circuit. Motor plate states 13 amps @ 120 volts.
> Another question I have is does the RPM on the upgraded motor have to match the old motor exactly when increasing the HP?
> I appreciate the kind responces that are informative instead of criticizing.


There is a reason that saw only has a 1 1/2hp motor. That is because that saw was designed to use a 1 1/2hp motor. Even with a 1 1/2hp motor, this saw has been known for broken motor mounts. The belt is sized for a 1 1/2hp motor. The weight of the motor is designed to put the proper tension on that belt and shaft bearings, what is going to happen when the motor it nearly twice as heavy? It is obvious you haven’t given the engineering of this saw much thought.


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## MarkZ402 (12 mo ago)

rogerh said:


> There is a reason that saw only has a 1 1/2hp motor. That is because that saw was designed to use a 1 1/2hp motor. Even with a 1 1/2hp motor, this saw has been known for broken motor mounts. The belt is sized for a 1 1/2hp motor. The weight of the motor is designed to put the proper tension on that belt and shaft bearings, what is going to happen when the motor it nearly twice as heavy? It is obvious you haven’t given the engineering of this saw much thought.


Maybe then I don’t need or want a 3HP. But I’m not getting anywhere near 1- 1-1/2 either. I’m probably somewhere between 1/2 -3/4 actual HP. So my question remains as far as a replacement motor, is there a source that anyone knows of that can either drop in or with slight mods fit and work without any dangers.


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