# Router Plane usefulness?



## mikeber (Jan 3, 2016)

For a long time, I’ve been reading on different discussion boards about router planes. Most posters mentioned the tool with great enthusiasm and I was intrigued. After a long consideration I decided to pull the trigger and purchased a new Veritas router plane.
When it finally arrived (after many delays) I tried using it and ran into a basic problem: “what was this tool designed for”?
I got power routers and the use of hand planes. But I still don’t get the purpose of this hand router
I do get that you can follow (and deepen) dados made with power tools. But what else? Can it be used independently? I tried cutting grooves and dados on plywood. I tried doing the same on poplar. It simply tears out the wood! I’ve seen people cutting the edges of dados first with a chisel or saw, and only later using the hand router. That seems like lot of time and work…
Can anyone shed more light? Are there things I have omitted?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

In ye olden days, cutting a dado was a multi-step process. First you cut the shoulders with a saw, then you use a chisel and mallet to knock out most of the waste, and the router plane was brought in to finish the bottom to a consistent depth

Nowadays, a router or table saw with a dado stack does the same job with 1 setup and a quarter of the time


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

They work well for tweaking tenon faces. I am pretty sure you can find other uses as well, but I don't reach for mine incredibly often.

Most things a router plane can do a shoulder plane or chisel can also do.


epicfail48 said:


> In ye olden days, cutting a dado was a multi-step process. First you cut the shoulders with a saw, then you use a chisel and mallet to knock out most of the waste, and the router plane was brought in to finish the bottom to a consistent depth
> 
> Nowadays, a router or table saw with a dado stack does the same job with 1 setup and a quarter of the time


It would take me at least a day to cut a dado by hand 🤣


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

mikeber said:


> For a long time, I’ve been reading on different discussion boards about router planes. Most posters mentioned the tool with great enthusiasm and I was intrigued. After a long consideration I decided to pull the trigger and purchased a new Veritas router plane.
> When it finally arrived (after many delays) I tried using it and ran into a basic problem: “what was this tool designed for”?
> I got power routers and the use of hand planes. But I still don’t get the purpose of this hand router
> I do get that you can follow (and deepen) dados made with power tools. But what else? Can it be used independently? I tried cutting grooves and dados on plywood. I tried doing the same on poplar. It simply tears out the wood! I’ve seen people cutting the edges of dados first with a chisel or saw, and only later using the hand router. That seems like lot of time and work…
> Can anyone shed more light? Are there things I have omitted?


I got a kick out of this post! It's like you got something on a whim and now are doing the research you should have done beforehand. "I got this, now what do I do with it?" 
If you are totally into hand tools, then stick with it until you master it.
If you have lots of dados to make, get out your router and an edge guide.
I own one also, but I've never had an opportunity to use it, nor the desire. It's a display piece on a shelf full of other hand planes, double bladed, bull nose, scrapers, Stanley's and Bailey's no. 3's and 6's and 7's, etc. 
My most used planes are the 60 1/2 low angles:



















The router plane is barely visible in the bottom photo, upper left corner.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Well, WNT, I LOVE my router plane! 

This just brings up the point there are definite areas of separation (as well as overlap) between hand work and machine work. One doesn’t render then other “useless”, and “used less” doesn’t mean useless, either. 

If you are doing them by hand and even on a table saw you don’t always get a perfectly flat groove b/c of any slight cup or bend in the board. If you do them with a router as WNT mentioned, since it follows the contour that’s much less likely. I prefer to do them on the table saw, unless it’s a very large board, then a router is better.

One use which I really like is dialing in a tenon. In this application you would affix an elongated base. The result is a perfectly parallel tenon. This method for paring a tenon face is superior to a shoulder plane (which is was not intended for anyway).









So, yes I use them in my work, but like many tools, if your work doesn’t require them that doesn’t mean they’re useless.

Re: hand cut dados, I’ve done them. A 12” dado is surprisingly easy and actually quite fast.

Don’t feel bad, I’ve bought quite a few tools based on someone else using them, only to find they weren’t used as often as I thought. One that comes to mind is a side dado plane.

Lee Valley is very good about returns.


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## Jar944_2 (Oct 30, 2020)

They are good for clearing out a table saw cut dado, however they make router bits that are specifically made to clean out table saw cut dados. 

Mine just hangs on a peg collecting dust.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

DrRobert said:


> Well, WNT, I LOVE my router plane!
> 
> This just brings up the point there are definite areas of separation (as well as overlap) between hand work and machine work. One doesn’t render then other “useless”, and “used less” doesn’t mean useless, either.
> 
> ...


I don't think this was a reply to me, but u do want to clarify that I don't think they are useless.

Using them to clean up a dado groove on a cut that didn't bottom out(either you lifted the piece slightly or there was sadist under it, or the board was warped). Is a huge time saver compared to any other method.

I have used the router plane for tenon faces, but it isn't the best when you are tweaking the fit. A rabbeting hand plane like a shoulder, side skew, or a rabbeting block plane is best at taking off "a little more" to sneak up on a fit. This is the use case they were designed for. 

The router plane is good at getting a tenon shoulder to exactly the same depth, but it doesn't work well removing a heavy cut, and sometimes you do not want a consistent and parallel shoulder (because the tenon is angled, not centered, your stock isn't a consistent Thickness, or your mortices are not consistent widths.) The router plane does spall/tear out the tenon considerably less than my open cheek planes.


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## mikeber (Jan 3, 2016)

DrRobert said:


> Well, WNT, I LOVE my router plane!
> 
> This just brings up the point there are definite areas of separation (as well as overlap) between hand work and machine work. One doesn’t render then other “useless”, and “used less” doesn’t mean useless, either.
> 
> ...





woodnthings said:


> I got a kick out of this post! It's like you got something on a whim and now are doing the research you should have done beforehand. "I got this, now what do I do with it?"
> If you are totally into hand tools, then stick with it until you master it.
> If you have lots of dados to make, get out your router and an edge guide.
> I own one also, but I've never had an opportunity to use it, nor the desire. It's a display piece on a shelf full of other hand planes, double bladed, bull nose, scrapers, Stanley's and Bailey's no. 3's and 6's and 7's, etc.
> ...


Well, I am not philosophical or “purist”. Being a practical worker my inclination is to grab the tool that gets the work done efficiently. The goal is the final piece. As such perhaps I can call myself a hybrid user. I’m no collector and my tools are just that - “tools”. For the sake of efficiency I prefer multi purpose tools. Things I can use in many ways. That’s my way of saving….
The reason I wanted the router plane in the first place is for inlays. But then I asked myself “what else can I use it for”?
I was surprised by the apparent requirement to scribe the edges of a groove. That adds a considerable amount of work to any project. I use a variety of hand planes and none require preliminary preparation. 
The hype on the internet can be very misleading. In the future, I will be more careful when reading “enthusiastic” reviews. I understand that many reviewers are collectors who acquire tools for display.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

Haha...yes. always take youtube reviews with a grain of salt..


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

mikeber said:


> For a long time, I’ve been reading on different discussion boards about router planes. Most posters mentioned the tool with great enthusiasm and I was intrigued. After a long consideration I decided to pull the trigger and purchased a new Veritas router plane.
> When it finally arrived (after many delays) I tried using it and ran into a basic problem: “what was this tool designed for”?
> I got power routers and the use of hand planes. But I still don’t get the purpose of this hand router
> I do get that you can follow (and deepen) dados made with power tools. But what else? Can it be used independently? I tried cutting grooves and dados on plywood. I tried doing the same on poplar. It simply tears out the wood! I’ve seen people cutting the edges of dados first with a chisel or saw, and only later using the hand router. That seems like lot of time and work…
> Can anyone shed more light? Are there things I have omitted?


When cutting a dado on a table saw it is nearly impossible to get a precise depth without a power feed. Now the deviation can be argued as to whether or not it matters, but the fact remains that no matter how we try no board is perfectly flat. No matter how we try nobody can manually maintain perfect downward feed pressure. The cure, a router plane. Because it rides on the surface of the board it is excellent not only for achieving a consistent depth of cut, but for fine tuning the cut. Another big plus is it eliminated machine and blade marks in the bottom of the cut be it by saw blades ot router bits.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

B Coll said:


> When cutting a dado on a table saw it is nearly impossible to get a precise depth without a power feed. Now the deviation can be argued as to whether or not it matters, but the fact remains that no matter how we try no board is perfectly flat. No matter how we try nobody can manually maintain perfect downward feed pressure. The cure, a router plane. Because it rides on the surface of the board it is excellent not only for achieving a consistent depth of cut, but for fine tuning the cut. Another big plus is it eliminated machine and blade marks in the bottom of the cut be it by saw blades ot router bits.


Yes, I have had varying depth dados from the table saw. The worse case is a high place where the insert sits a little proud of where it should, a perfect place to use a router plane. The issue is how to determine when you have an "issue". LOL. 
An ordinary router used free hand would make a huge mess along the edges, so that's out unless you have a top bearing over a "right sized" dado bit to clean it up. BUT, I've never tried that, so I'm only assuming it would work as I described?
My technique on the table saw is to really press the work down hard over the dado cutter to insure the best depth of cut possible, but it is not 100% reliable. I suppose a depth gauge block would show where there are any high spots and easy enough to make one.


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> Yes, I have had varying depth dados from the table saw. The worse case is a high place where the insert sits a little proud of where it should, a perfect place to use a router plane. The issue is how to determine when you have an "issue". LOL.
> An ordinary router used free hand would make a huge mess along the edges, so that's out unless you have a top bearing over a "right sized" dado bit to clean it up. BUT, I've never tried that, so I'm only assuming it would work as I described?
> My technique on the table saw is to really press the work down hard over the dado cutter to insure the best depth of cut possible, but it is not 100% reliable. I suppose a depth gauge block would show where there are any high spots and easy enough to make one.


I think the table saw is easier, but I've never had issues with my router leaving a big mess on dados / dovetails / rabbets


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

BigCountry79 said:


> I think the table saw is easier, but I've never had issues with my router leaving a big mess on dados / dovetails / rabbets


I said that because when you do use a router for dados it's always with a guide, never freehand.
If you try to "clean up" a dado made on the table saw "freehand", you'll have a mess unless you use the bearing to ride the existing edges and even out the bottom.
It that more clear now?


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> I said that because when you do use a router for dados it's always with a guide, never freehand.
> If you try to "clean up" a dado made on the table saw "freehand", you'll have a mess unless you use the bearing to ride the existing edges and even out the bottom.
> It that more clear now?


Ah...yeah. I agree. Don't do that!


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## Jar944_2 (Oct 30, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> Yes, I have had varying depth dados from the table saw. The worse case is a high place where the insert sits a little proud of where it should, a perfect place to use a router plane. The issue is how to determine when you have an "issue". LOL.
> An ordinary router used free hand would make a huge mess along the edges, so that's out unless you have a top bearing over a "right sized" dado bit to clean it up. BUT, I've never tried that, so I'm only assuming it would work as I described?
> My technique on the table saw is to really press the work down hard over the dado cutter to insure the best depth of cut possible, but it is not 100% reliable. I suppose a depth gauge block would show where there are any high spots and easy enough to make one.


Dado clean out bits are faster and cleaner than a router plane.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

That's exactly what I had in mind! Glad to see they actually exist, thanks.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Jar944_2 said:


> Dado clean out bits are faster and cleaner than a router plane.


For one or two dados by the time I find the bit, find my ear muffs & safety glasses, get it loaded and adjusted I‘m done . But that’s me, you haven’t seen my router bit drawer 😳.

Kidding but not totally. There are times when hand tools are faster for certain jobs.

Those bits are also good for cleaning out a dovetail pinboard to the scribe line. Haven’t done that yet, but I’ve seen it. Big time saver aside from a perfect bottom line.


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

B Coll said:


> When cutting a dado on a table saw it is nearly impossible to get a precise depth without a power feed. Now the deviation can be argued as to whether or not it matters, but the fact remains that no matter how we try no board is perfectly flat. No matter how we try nobody can manually maintain perfect downward feed pressure. The cure, a router plane. Because it rides on the surface of the board it is excellent not only for achieving a consistent depth of cut, but for fine tuning the cut. Another big plus is it eliminated machine and blade marks in the bottom of the cut be it by saw blades ot router bits.


Here is a method to get consistent depth on dados without downward pressure from a power feeder.
Make wood insert with a slight bump , 1/6"/ 3/32" . The high spot will be in the center. Blend the high spot to the ends of the insert til the ends are flush and the taper is gradual. Sanding works well.
When the board passes over the high spot the dado will be the same depth all the way. 
I use a power feeder myself most of the time, still use the tapered insert power feed or not.
As far as a router plane goes, I used a small one about 1-1/2" x 3" many times for strike plates , mortise lock plates etc. 
Even with routers a strike plate can be mortised faster with a drill, forstner bit ,chisel and router plane.
Probably used my router plane every day if hanging stock doors. 
mike


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## gadabout (Dec 21, 2012)

I bought the Lie Nielsen router plane a few years ago and enjoy using it whenever I get the chance. I use both power and hand tools, but prefer hand tools when it’s reasonable to do so. I don't have a dado blade on my jobsite table saw, so if I have to cut a dado, it’s multiple passes with a regular blade. The router plane does a good job of cleaning them out.


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## WeebyWoodWorker (Jun 11, 2017)

They're super cool, useless for me but super cool. Every time I've thought I could use one, an electric router or just a chisel has worked out fine. I'd like to build one a some point though just for the heck of it. 

-T


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## fareastern (Sep 19, 2014)

It isn't something I use very often but my Stanley 271 is invaluable on occasion.The ability to convert to a near bullnose configuration lets me cut accurately to a specific depth really close to an obstacle.I don't own an electric equivalent that will do the same thing.


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## AwesomeOpossum74 (Jan 27, 2017)

mikeber said:


> I tried cutting grooves and dados on plywood. I tried doing the same on poplar. It simply tears out the wood! I’ve seen people cutting the edges of dados first with a chisel or saw, and only later using the hand router. That seems like lot of time and work…


Basically same experience. I've found better results using bench chisels to knock out the sides, and firmer chisels for clearing. I might do final depth with my router plane if I feel squirrely. Also, it's much easier to sharpen a chisel than a router plane blade, in my opinion.

Yes, this process does take time. But it's a hobby for me, and I don't have deadlines. I would certainly lean way more to the hand tools side than the "practical" side simply because it's more satisfying.


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