# Water based clear coats



## C&D Woodcraft (Dec 1, 2006)

Okay, so I just got a new toy--an HVLP sprayer. I shopped around for awhile and ended up buying the SW8100 (3 stage turbine) from the local Sherwin Williams store. I liked the idea of having a physical location I can go to if I have any issues. 
I've only been spraying latex paint so far, I'm starting to get the hang or it. I know it can also spray lacquers too, if thinned a little. 
My biggest issue I have found so far is that the gun takes a long time to clean, I'm thinking I'm going to go broke in clean-up if I'm spraying oil based. 
I've never used water based clear coats before, but I'm wondering if you all have ever tried or what your success has been.

Thanks.

--Darrell


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## formula462 (Dec 9, 2006)

I have never used water base thru a sprayer but I have been using the wipe on/brush on from General Finishes with great results and like you the water cleanup would save time and money.


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## joewho (Oct 31, 2006)

Never used water base through a sprayer, but the two factors are, bubbles and it's thin. Post back after you've sprayed it, sounds interesting. (watch out for bubbles)


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## Plowboy (Dec 31, 2006)

I've been using a Wagner low pressure sprayer for the last year. Instead of the more expensive HVLP turbine models, I went for the $99 Wagner after seeing a good review in one of the wood working mags. I've loved it. Saves me a ton of time and product.

Basically, I shoot a water based satin poly on many of my projects. Dry time is 30 minutes. I just leave the remaining poly in the gun for months at a time. Each time I use the gun for first time, I just wipe any dried finish off of the tip. Works great. My finishes turn out much better with the gun and not the brushes. I can finish something in a day instead of several.

The only change I had to make was not using steel wool to buff between final coats. The theory that was explained to me is that the wool fibers can cause rust staining because of the water based stain. Not sure if I believe that or not, but why take chances. So I'm using higher grits of sandpaper in the final coats.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

I don't spray water based finishes but I do use them on the wood floors that I do. Plowboy is right on the steel wool. You will get rust spots. I use a maroon scotchbrite pad to do all of my sanding on the floors. The maroon pad is about equal to a 320 grit sandpaper.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

This months Woodcraft catalog supplement has a picture of an HVLP Spray Station Pro on it. $300.00

Don't know if that is a good price or good rig. Woodcraft has alot of cool stuff but they are retail of course.


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## Plowboy (Dec 31, 2006)

Big Dave said:


> I don't spray water based finishes but I do use them on the wood floors that I do. Plowboy is right on the steel wool. You will get rust spots. I use a maroon scotchbrite pad to do all of my sanding on the floors. The maroon pad is about equal to a 320 grit sandpaper.


Cool tip. I've just used sandpaper.


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## Burlkraft (Oct 15, 2006)

I have had pretty good luck spraying Crystalac water based poly. I do light coats about evry 45 minutes. It seems to coat evenly and is very hard when dry, but that's just my thoughts.......


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## Plowboy (Dec 31, 2006)

Burlkraft said:


> I have had pretty good luck spraying Crystalac water based poly. I do light coats about evry 45 minutes. It seems to coat evenly and is very hard when dry, but that's just my thoughts.......


Sand/buff between every coat? Do you use tac cloth? I just use a rag and maybe blow it off with air compressor.


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## Big Dave (Sep 16, 2006)

On my floor finish you can recoat within 48 hours and not have to sand. I will put a sealer coat and then 2 finish coats on before sanding to give me a little more finish to work with without burn through. I tack my floors with a water dampened micro fiber towel.


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## Burlkraft (Oct 15, 2006)

Every other coat w/1000 wet dry / paper.
I use a moist, with water, rag. Blow off to be sure it's dry and then spray again. I always do at least 6 light coats...Light coats with that are just before it starts to look milky. There's a fine line, but the only way to learn is by experimentation.


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## Plowboy (Dec 31, 2006)

Burlkraft said:


> Every other coat w/1000 wet dry / paper.
> I use a moist, with water, rag. Blow off to be sure it's dry and then spray again. I always do at least 6 light coats...Light coats with that are just before it starts to look milky. There's a fine line, but the only way to learn is by experimentation.


Sounds similar to my process at least with number of coats and amount.


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## jodiemeglio (Jan 2, 2007)

When spraying do you have to clean the gun out after every coat or can it sit for a while??


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## Plowboy (Dec 31, 2006)

jodiemeglio said:


> When spraying do you have to clean the gun out after every coat or can it sit for a while??


With my set up, I let it sit for months. Sometimes have to wipe off the very tip if it has some dried poly on it.


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## Burlkraft (Oct 15, 2006)

I usually spray all day and clean up the gun at night. Just gotta wipe the tip like Plowboy said. The nice thing is ya can clean up with hot soapy water....


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## 1 1/2 Thumb (Dec 29, 2006)

I myself have never had any luck spraying waterbase lacquer .. and I have tried a bunch of different brands. My biggest problem was ... Bubbles. The only way I could come close, was to spray very light coats .. and that ment a bunch of them .. and when making cabinets in a production type environment ... thats to slow ... I also had trouble with the tips clogging .. unless I thinned way beyond what the specs required. I would like it if it did work, as there isnt any hazards in spraying ... not like the normal lacquers.


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