# Collars



## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

Hi. I need to make a drilling jig where it will get repeated use. I have a vague recollection of running across some metal "collars" that could be used to ensure that the holes in the jig do not get bigger with repeated use. Of course, I forget what they are called and where I saw them.

Does this ring a bell with anyone? Have any idea where they may be purchased?

Thanks,

Greg


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## Geoguy (Feb 22, 2008)

"Stop Collars" can be purchased almost anywhere:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10617

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003966/9189/Drill-Bit-Stop-Collars7-Pc-Set.aspx


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Collars no, guides yes*

Somethin' like this? Amazon.com: WoodRiver Drill Guide With 6 Bushings: Home Improvement










Or this: http://www.mannyswoodworkersplace.com/5011002.html
Home > Marking & Layout Tools > Drill Straight Drill Guide


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

nothing to add


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

*Head press-fit bushings*

Hi

Thanks for the replies. I did more some more googling and this is what I came up with: http://www.carrlane.com/catalog/ind...006280B1713050245221E0107070F1A3C3B28535A4355

I am making a jig with 5-7 holes that I will use repetitively and was thinking of using these bushings to extend the life of the jig. 

Has anyone seen something similar in a woodworking catalog that might be more geared towards woodworking?

Thanks.

Greg


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Greg in Maryland said:


> Hi
> 
> Thanks for the replies. I did more some more googling and this is what I came up with: http://www.carrlane.com/catalog/ind...006280B1713050245221E0107070F1A3C3B28535A4355
> 
> ...


*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

What's wrong with those? Why won't they work?












 







.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

Hey Cabinetman,

You are quite correct that the bushings I spotted will work. I only found them after I posted and learned that they are called H bushings. Another source is http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-bushings-and-liners/=aoz9b1.

Unfortunately, I need nine of them and they are a bit pricey and I was hoping to get a cheaper alternative.

Thanks

Greg


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Greg in Maryland said:


> Hey Cabinetman,
> 
> You are quite correct that the bushings I spotted will work. I only found them after I posted and learned that they are called H bushings. Another source is http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-bushings-and-liners/=aoz9b1.
> 
> ...


What ID are you looking for? Maybe a modified t-nut would work for you.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Just an opine......but you're seriously limiting yourself if looking "only" at WW suppliers.Graingers,MSC,Enco,ect. ect.

I call-m drill bushings and just make them.And don't limit yourself to "round" or turned bushings.To the point that if they were made from sq/rect steel stock that your overall design "may" work even better?They could be fitted in a sliding track arrangement.

Steel,like wood comes in different flavors.Hardness,toughness,ability to take heat treat,stainless...yadayada.If you're serious about creating professional jigs/fixtures,take a few moments and learn about these diff. steels.I think in alot of ways its easier than wood in this respect.

Drilling all but the hardest steels is not that big of deal.If you're buying good quality high speed steel drills(and theres no reason NOT to),Do some careful layout work and slap-m up on a DP,in a vise and drill away.With all usual safety cautions thrown in.


One resource I recomend to folks is find your proffesional nut/bolt jobber in your town.And NO,sLowes and Home Despot,Tractor supply don't qualify.Your looking for the place that supplies industry in your area.They have every nut,bolt,fastener,drills,taps/dies..........drill bushings.Its brainlessly easy.BW


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## Demosthine (Jan 18, 2011)

One place I found to have a really large selection is Ace Hardware near me. This one in particular is one of their larger stores in the valley and has the largest collection of nuts, bolts, screws, collars and bushings that I've seen anywhere. They have some great stuff.

Depending on where you are, this one is in Surprise, Arizona at 17026 West Bell Road. It doesn't appear on Google Maps doing a search for Ace Hardware, but if you go to their website, it is listed. It's on the North side of the road.

Enjoy!


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Demosthine said:


> Depending on where you are, this one is in Surprise, Arizona at 17026 West Bell Road. It doesn't appear on Google Maps doing a search for Ace Hardware, but if you go to their website, it is listed. It's on the North side of the road.
> 
> Enjoy!


Really, drill bushings?

I will be there in about a month. Are they East or West of Grand Avenue?


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

Greg in Maryland said:


> Hi. I need to make a drilling jig where it will get repeated use. I have a vague recollection of running across some metal "collars" that could be used to ensure that the holes in the jig do not get bigger with repeated use. Of course, I forget what they are called and where I saw them.
> 
> Does this ring a bell with anyone? Have any idea where they may be purchased?
> 
> ...


This company has them as well.

http://www.jergensinc.com/Index.aspx

However, if you have a drill press you can make your own as has been suggested. I would consider aluminum. You can make them yourself so they can be re-placed easily.


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## Demosthine (Jan 18, 2011)

Rich, it'll be farther West of Grand Avenue by several miles.

Hope you enjoy the weather while you're here. It's been an absolutely beautiful, but crazy winter. The temperatures have been great, but they vary from warm to very cool. I can't say cold, because true cold doesn't occur here in Phoenix.

Travel safe.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

*Bushings, not collars*

Hi Everyone

Thanks so much for all the replies. I quickly found my own answer soon after posting, but I still got a lot of useful information.

*Geoguy* I guess the title of the thread is misleading. What I was looking for is H bushings. Thanks for the links though -- I still need to get some stop collars though.

*woodnthings* Those look interesting. Especially the Drill Straight Drill Guide. I wonder if it would work with a brace and auger bits?

*cabinetman *Thanks for the welcome. I'm a lurker and sometime contributor at the btcentral forum. Nice to see familiar guys (and gals)

*jschaben *I am looking for 1/4 inch inside diameter. I'm thinking that an inexpensive option would be purchase t nuts and then drill the threads out so it is 1/4 inch. If they aren't already 1/4 inch inside diameter. Thanks for the tip, I would never have though if it.

*BWSmith* Typically the word professional" isn't mentioned in the same sentence as any of my work.:no::notworthy: Creating my own bushings is an interesting concept, as is the nut/bolt jobber source. I'll have to do some looking around.

One question for you, where can I get some decent drill bits for metal (ferrous and non-ferrous)? Are Enco http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHM products any good?

*Texas Sawduster* Thanks for the link. There was some interesting products on their website. I am looking forward to receiving their catalog

Again, thanks guys!

Greg


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Greg and to all,this is gonna sound picky but don't shoot the messanger.

Drill bits= is usually associated with brace and "bits",and other special drills.

Drill=is the recognized term for a conventional....twist drill...to be used in a drill motor.

Some see it as semantics(ha),and I reckon it is.......

You live in Md.,there has to be a pro jobber selling fasteners.If you can't find-m in the yellow pages start aking around.Auto body shop,sm'ish machine shops,welding joints,ect.I would caution going to cabmet shops as they tend to think only in wood terms,which subsequently shoots them in the foot.

A twist drill ranks as one the most "efficient" means of stock removal(effort vs effect).Understanding that little angle on the end of a drill and its effect on the drilling operation is key.The angle can be changed to suit whatever you're drilling....and is easily changed by sharpening.Yes,drills need to be sharp.Best tool is a beater 6x48 sander.....WHEN a craftsman learns to sharpen their twist drills....well,consider it a skill building block.So only buying high speed steel(research it),no fancy coatings,plain vanilla,made in USA(if you can find it)drills is S.O.P......Buying cheap drills has to be the dumbest,shootin the foot thing ever.

Drilling is such a large part of every craft,it pays to understand and invest in quality drills.ENCO is nice because they list Imported pce clearly.And in the same ad will offer a made in USA.I don't use ENCO because of a flawed shiiping policy.PC way of saying they really suck bad and rip people off on shipping.They do however have these promo free shipping deals whose code/dates are passed around internet sites like some kind of secret handshake.I say find the drill/supplier local....also do a little reading on drills.

For the shop wall,nothing is handy'er than a hanging drill chart.Your local supplier has these FREE for the asking.It lists SAE and Metric drills,their nominal and decimal size,correct tap/dies...yadayada.I usually put one behind every applicable pc of equip.They make little magnet versions that are handy on a BS or planer.

More than you might want to know........drills are usually a cpll .001's under their "call size".IOWs a 1/2" drill ain't .500,its gonna be .498 or so.The reason is that ALL drills punch out a slightly oversized hole.....real big DUH.Think about it,better yet research and measure.But anyway its a numbers game WRT choosing drill sizes.It explains why there's numbered and letterd drills availible.These are for their inherant range of sizes which are slightly over/under their "nominal" counterparts.BW


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Use the drill bushings that Greg posted, and buy a set of Good bits such as:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/...rill-bits/drill-sets/_/N-1z13znxZgj4x4l&Nty=0


You'll never regret buying the best.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Another source of high quality bits and taps. I've still got bits and taps I used 40some years ago.:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/...field-industries-inc/_/N-gj4x4lZ1z13zok&Nty=0


Ordered a lot of tooling from this Company:

Bushings--http://www.reidsupply.com/GrpResults.aspx?pid=10021807&aitm=BHT-28140&apid=10021807


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

Hey BW

Don't worry, I won't shoot the messenger. I did however call upon the snow gods to punish you for your impertinence! :laughing:

Thanks for the info.

Greg


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

BWSmith;A twist drill ranks as one the most "efficient" means of stock removal(effort vs effect).Understanding that little angle on the end of a drill and its effect on the drilling operation is key.The angle can be changed to suit whatever you're drilling....and is easily changed by sharpening.Yes said:


> BW, I usually agree with your posts, but have to differ on a couple things:
> 
> Quality twist drill diameters are right on the money. Such as: 1/2" = .500. 3/8"=.375.
> 
> ...


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

You're right H.A.S....brain f**t on my part WRT nominal vs net on drill diam.Was thinking,if you want a .500 hole don't use a 1/2 drill(find one thats a cpl .001 under).Thanks for pointing it out,BW

Edit to add........and please correct me if wrong,but a "bored" hole is more accurate than a reamed hole?Reason being the possiblity for the reamer to follow a crooked hole.......boring to size eliminates this potential error.Big discussion in gunsmithing world when doing chambers.They get right anal with floating vs fixed reamers?One things for sure....in the chicken or egg way of looking at it,if you have no way of checking or measuring the work how do you know its right.So,figure out what its gonna take to measure the hole and deciding if that system of measuring(in this case a sm hole gage)is up to task.BW


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Sorry BW, just found your post. Do you have a link to that thread about chambering? I have to admit, I have seen some wrong ideas about machining such things; but I noticed most people will believe someone's post that has been there for a long time, other than believing facts.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Uh,we're talking VOLUMNS of discussion on chambering techniques.Its kind of interesting in that......you deffinately see two levels of thought.Without sounding degrading,the "gunsmith's" act like its some super hard to do,requires great knowlege and much discussion.Then theres seasoned machinists that see it as another day at the office,paying due respect to tolerances.I'm self taught,but have a bunch of very talented machinists that answer any questions.And in general,a means to an end......"I need this part",and don't/can't afford for someone else to make it.

One old timer who builds some nice stuff is more in the former group above,hangs out on all the usual sites.......Practical machinist and benchrest.com,and others.Butch Lambert.Go to you-tube and plug in chamber reaming,theres loads.

There was a time when I considered turnin up some brrls but the $$ got in the way.Will say if I was,would build a "flush through" system for coolant.It simply has to work better.Otherwise its the whole peck/flush,peck/flush and keep doin it.BW


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