# My Outfeed/Work Table Plan - Sound OK???



## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

Hi guys,

ok, as a new woodworker I am trying to make sure that I have some idea of what I am doing! :smile: Here are my thoughts:

Torsion box made of 1-1/2" plywood.
Bottom and top = 1/2" MDF glued & pinned.
Hardboard top surface attached with double sided tape.
Trimmed with a hardwood edge.
Total thickness = 2-5/8" (plus the tape)

The plan was that before attaching the hardboard top surface I would drill a hole through both MDF layers, allowing me to use a dowel or similar to push the hardboard top off of the double sided tape whenever I want a new surface. I read that tip somewhere recently.

Sound like a plan?

Hugh


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You really mean this?*

Quote: Torsion box made of 1-1/2" plywood. ???? 
Maybe you mean 2 layers of 3/4" glued together??
That sounds real extreme to me. A 3" deep/thick *torsion box* will be strong enough to support the health care bill, if you skin it with 1/2" plywood or 1/2" MDF either one. If you make the internals from MDF remember it makes more dust than any other material when sawing it. Dust masks are in order!
Some folks here, me included, use a solid core slab door for a bench top or assembly table. For $80.00 it's done, pretty darn flat and comes in widths of 30" or 36" x 6'8". The idea of a push hole is great. That double side tape sticks like glue. Don't use much or you'll never get it apart. :thumbsup: bill


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> Quote: Torsion box made of 1-1/2" plywood. ????
> Maybe you mean 2 layers of 3/4" glued together??
> That sounds real extreme to me. A 3" deep/thick *torsion box* will be strong enough to support the health care bill, if you skin it with 1/2" plywood or 1/2" MDF either one. If you make the internals from MDF remember it makes more dust than any other material when sawing it. Dust masks are in order!
> Some folks here, me included, use a solid core slab door for a bench top or assembly table. For $80.00 it's done, pretty darn flat and comes in widths of 30" or 36" x 6'8". The idea of a push hole is great. That double side tape sticks like glue. Don't use much or you'll never get it apart. :thumbsup: bill



Ah, sorry Bill - I explained it poorly.

When I said 1-1/2" ply, I was meaning making up the internal box using 3/4" plywood cut into strips 1-1/2" wide. Make sense now? :smile:

Actually, a recommendation for double sided tape would be handy, the stuff I have is too rough (carpet tape)

Thanks.

Hugh


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## sawdustmark (Dec 31, 2010)

thanks for tip on the holes to help get the hardboard off the MDF... I also use a solid core door (which, by the way, isn't actually solid wood... it's actually just filled with wood fibers) workbench with a hardboard surface. I just changed the top on Thurs after 8 months! 

I use the double face carpet tape to hold down the hardboard and it doesn't really affect the height of the surface; It certainly doesn't show. I'd stick with the carpet tape, or at least give it a try... if it doesn't work for you, you can easily start over with those holes in the torsion box skins!

And btw, if you're looking for a solid core door for a workbench top, visit one of your local cabinet and door mills that sell to builders/remodelers. Ask them for a door that was miscut or cosmetically damaged; I payed $15 for my solid core door!

mark


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Solid core doors are usually a particleboard core...very heavy. Your torsion box sounds OK, but for just an outfeed top might be overkill. If for a working table of sorts, what plans have you made for a leg assembly?












 









.


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

Sawdustmark - thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. Yeah, the hardboard removal method is a good one (not mine)


Cabinetman - I was thinking about making "L" shaped legs from a 2-1/4" length of ply screwed to a 3" length (3x3 in the end). Stretchers also.

Hugh


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

hugh71158 said:


> Sawdustmark - thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. Yeah, the hardboard removal method is a good one (not mine)
> 
> 
> Cabinetman - I was thinking about making "L" shaped legs from a 2-1/4" length of ply screwed to a 3" length (3x3 in the end). Stretchers also.
> ...


Any other thoughts? :smile:


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## A_Sailor (Jun 17, 2009)

Hugh, those legs sound good to me. Pretty much what I have on my outfeed/assembly table. 

The torsion box does seem a bit overkill for just an outfeed table. Mine is just 2 layers of 3/4" MDF and it's super sturdy/heavy and flat enough. 

Be sure to put a shelf down near the bottom of your table too to help give it some rigidity.


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

A_Sailor said:


> Hugh, those legs sound good to me. Pretty much what I have on my outfeed/assembly table.
> 
> The torsion box does seem a bit overkill for just an outfeed table. Mine is just 2 layers of 3/4" MDF and it's super sturdy/heavy and flat enough.
> 
> Be sure to put a shelf down near the bottom of your table too to help give it some rigidity.


Good point with the bottom shelf - thanks. The table will double as an outfeed and a work table, so I want it to be perfectly flat and stable. 

Thanks for the feedback.

Hugh


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

hugh71158 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> ok, as a new woodworker I am trying to make sure that I have some idea of what I am doing! :smile: Here are my thoughts:
> 
> ...


Are you wanting a standalone or are you planning on attaching this to your table saw?

I agree with woodnthings, go with the door. I used a solid core door years ago as a desk/workbench. Worked very well.


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

Texas Sawduster said:


> Are you wanting a standalone or are you planning on attaching this to your table saw?
> 
> I agree with woodnthings, go with the door. I used a solid core door years ago as a desk/workbench. Worked very well.


I might add a little section onto the tablle saw, and then the table we are discussing would be standalone - I might put it on casters so I can move it around.

Hugh


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## terrysumner (Oct 5, 2008)

*Outfeed table can be pretty basic...*

I built mine out of a sheet or 2 of cheap 3/4 plywood from Home Depot and some 3/4 melamine. Just a simple box basically. However I did put adjustable feet on the bottom so I can level it out properly. Then I attached it to the angle iron on the far side of the tablesaw with bolts and some spacers. Really..very basic but it works great and I have some good sized storage space to boot! HTH! 

Hosted on Fotki

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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

Thanks for that Terry.

I can't attach to the back of the saw, the fence runs on a length of angle iron. 

Looked also at a folding table - the one in the video below looks very handy. Modifications needed though.

Hugh


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Thanks for this thread! I have a question on that very point.....

I also need to use a folding or removable table design. Besides the fence rail, my guard mounts to the rear of the saw and must be realigned regularly. That requires a lot of access to the back of the saw, so I too must use a folding or roll-away design.

Is there an (affordable) approach that reliably moves back into the exact position time and time again? I'd like to minimize the time I spend truing the outfeed to the tabletop after moving it around. 

I should mention that my floor is really uneven, and the saw itself keeps moving around the shop. I'd like the outfeed table to reference to the table top, not the floor.

Thanks
Steve El


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*There's a couple of ways*

One is to hang the outfeed table on a bracket or 2 on the rear of the saw , adjustable height to zero it out flush and then a folding leg affair on the other end, also adjustable legs/feet/pads. 
The second way is to permanently hinge the outfeed table on the rear of the saw and make a folding p bracket that collapses and mounts near the base of the saw. This way it's "married" to the saw, and where the saw goes the table follows.

I have both types for what it's worth. The latter is a factory folding table on the rear of a Craftsman 22124 Hybrid saw. A light weight sheet metal table with the miter slots stamped in.
It's not the strongest but it works real well for longer rips.

Another 12" saw I have has the HTC folding roller set up. Works great, expensive $$$ and the wood rolls off like a greased pig.

The "fixed" height table is on the back of the triple 12 saw setup and is just 2 pcs of 1/2" MDF and some 2xs in between
to get the height just right. I still have to glue it and screw together and then allow for a 1/8" Masontite top. This table is also used for assembly so it's gotta be big and flat. I may make it a 1/2" low and use 1/2" MDF and space apart the sections to allow for the miter slots.....maybe not... dust traps. :blink: bill

PREVIOUS THREAD:
I found a discarded basketball backboard with braces and a folding leg mount. Seems like it would make a dandy folding support, 2 hinges, a top surface, and a folding leg and bam! :laughing: bill
I just set it on top of the factory roller to get the idea of size. You could throw some rollers in it and make a roller support. The disadvantage to the rollers is things get to rolling "downhill" so fast, you can't stop them it works so well! 
FYI there's a reason they call them table saws...they get used as tables when the're not being used for sawing. :blink: 
Attached Thumbnails


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## Firewalker (Jan 3, 2011)

wood that roller outfeed is pretty awesome! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Aleo12023 (May 24, 2011)

Nice feed table vid link, thank you.


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