# Need Help Finding a Router Bit



## jgrey (Jul 9, 2013)

I'm trying to route a small slot 1/16" wide, 3/4" long, and at least 3/8" deep. I've found 1/16" bits, but the cutters are not long enough to cut 3/8" deep. Anyone have a source for a longer 1/16" bit, or have a different suggestion of how I could make this type of slot? Thanks!


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Multiple passes?


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Laughing (at myself too)!

I thought of that but if the cutting depth of the bit is less than 3/8" .....

This is a toughie. I looked around on line and the longest 16th diameter bit I found was only 5/16".

I've never heard of a 1/16"kerf TS blade so that idea is a non-starter.

Maybe a glue up using a well waxed 1/16" spacer but then the thing would have to be removed. Eek!

Back to square one.

Without a clear description of the project its hard to suggest alternative methods.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Brainstorming here. Laugh away!

How about a glue up using a well waxed 1/16" thick metal spacer longer than the workpiece (edit: and taller than the slot).

After the glue sets heat the metal to liquefy the wax the pull the spacer out of the slot.

Or maybe I just need yo get to sleep?

:/


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jgrey said:


> I'm trying to route a small slot 1/16" wide, 3/4" long, and at least 3/8" deep. I've found 1/16" bits, but the cutters are not long enough to cut 3/8" deep. Anyone have a source for a longer 1/16" bit, or have a different suggestion of how I could make this type of slot? Thanks!


A router bit that skinny would likely just snap off. You might be able to use a drill bit *like this*. It probably could not be mounted in a router collet, but maybe you could rig up a simple jig to use in a drill.


















.


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## jgrey (Jul 9, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I figured strength of the bit was why they don't seem to come longer than 5/16 in that thin of a cutter. The application I'm using it for is a little peculiar-- to make a slot that will snugly hold a penny buried half way in to the wood. I was hoping there might be an obscure or specialized tool maker that had a longer bit in a special metal material. Guess the search continues...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jgrey said:


> Thanks for the feedback everyone. I figured strength of the bit was why they don't seem to come longer than 5/16 in that thin of a cutter. The application I'm using it for is a little peculiar-- to make a slot that will snugly hold a penny buried half way in to the wood. I was hoping there might be an obscure or specialized tool maker that had a longer bit in a special metal material. Guess the search continues...


A drill bit can cut with its edges. Or, you could use a flat blade wood carving tool. There are many with thickness less than 1/16", and thicknesses varied on up, and different widths. A few taps into the wood you can make a nice clean tight slot.

















.


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## 4DThinker (Mar 13, 2013)

What is the overall shape of the part you want the penny slot in? There are 1/16" thick slot cutters available, generally used for t-shaped edging. Another option would be to split the piece right where you want the slot, then face route 1/16" deep on one side. Then glue the part back together. Just be careful not get any glue in the slot.


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## Stodg73 (Jul 10, 2012)

Like this?

Freud 63-100 1/16-Inch Slot Cutter Set 9/16-Inch depth cut (1/4-Inch Shank) - Amazon.com


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

4DThinker said:


> There are 1/16" thick slot cutters available, generally used for t-shaped edging.


+1. :yes: A slot cutter would work.
http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/53100.html
Cutter #53100 or #53200


















.


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## jgrey (Jul 9, 2013)

I had considered a slot cutter, but would really like to isolate the length of the slot to the diameter of the penny (3/4in). The idea to face route before I glue the laminations could work though. I would have to change the orientation of the lamination, but it might work. Or I guess I could use the slot cutter idea and slot the adjoining laminated faces before glue up. Some stuff to think about.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Maybe this slot cutter for a Dremel tool.

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72&products_id=330

I didn't find the diameter of the cutter but it has to be smaller than a slot cutter for a router.


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## PHXWoodwork (Jul 11, 2013)

A 1/16 drill bit on a drill press wood do it. You lay out the portion you want to mortise on your material (1/16x3/4x3/8). Then make several drill holes as close together as possible. Then you will be able to clean it up with a utility knife (make sure it's sharp) or a small chisel blade putty knife. That should take care of it.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

PHXWoodwork said:


> ...Then you will be able to clean it up with a utility knife (make sure it's sharp) or a small chisel blade putty knife. That should take care of it.


http://www.xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades.aspx


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## jgrey (Jul 9, 2013)

By the way, I'm a product designer by trade, and they've been talking about "crowd sourced" design like it's a new trend, but you guys and the communities around these forums are the originators of leveraging the Internet for "crowd sourced" designs. Thanks again, and keep it up!


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

jharris2 said:


> I've never heard of a 1/16"kerf TS blade so that idea is a non-starter.


I know of a 1/16in kerf table saw blade, but do not faint when you see the price.

http://totalsawsolutions.com/

Intended for cutting thin slices from expensive wood.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Eek!!!! $$$$$$

I got a little dizzy but I caught myself before I fell down.

Cool technology but it's not a purchase I can justify for my small shop.

All the described benefits seem to be applicable to large production operations.

Thanx fer ferthring mi ejumikashun.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

jharris2 said:


> Eek!!!! $$$$$$
> 
> I got a little dizzy but I caught myself before I fell down.
> 
> ...


Glad to read that you managed to avoid injury. :laughing:


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

does the penny have to stay whole?


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## jgrey (Jul 9, 2013)

Yes, there would be two of them on the same plane that serve as a "ledge" or feet to hold a thin object against an inclined plane (like a business card holder or music stand.)


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

We're talking about a mortise 3/8" deep and 3/4" long and 1/16" wide. 

Go to HD and buy a "Buck Brothers" brand chisel set. (About $30?) Use the 3/4" to mark the sides of the slot. (Nice crisp edges) Take the 1/4" chisel and carefully grind it to 1/16". (Don't burn the chisel on the wheel, stone or belt sander.) Now chop out the mortise for the penny.

Use a 16d nail and propane torch. Heat the nail and flatten to 1/16" thick. File to shape, 1/16" x 13/32". Use the torch to heat the nail and burn your way in. When you're done, sand off the scorch marks.
You could do the same with a penny but grind the edge so that the "rim" doesn't make the mortise too wide.

With the 16d nail and torch, you could try to make a 1/16" wide scraper. Heat the nail, shape the nail, sharpen the scraper, heat again, plunge cherry red into motor oil to cool and then sharpen again. Hold against a straight edge and scrape to 3/8" depth.

Talk to your dentist and get an old burr. In a Dremmel you probably could work the wood to cut the slot. This may take a lot more skill than any of the above.


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## Steve M. (Jun 4, 2013)

How about using an oscillating tool to cut the slots straight in? If the blade is too wide you could modify the width to suit the dimension needed.


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