# Butcher Block Restoration



## LastBattle

I am request help and expertise from the group on the restoration of an antique butcher block. It is solid... but as you can see from the photos, it has cracks that have developed over time. 


Would someone be able to provide me support in how to: 1. refinish the sides and top (Sanding etc) 2. How to repair or fill the cracks 3: How to best treat and finish the piece (it will be used for actual food prep if I can get it back to a nice working condition).


I would like to retain the character of the piece, but want it looking very nice. Any help is appreciated..

Bob


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## Steve Neul

It's a bit much to take apart and reglue it. I believe I would just fill the cracks with wood putty and sand it. It doesn't look like it was oiled enough to be a major issue with the putty sticking.


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## lacman

You need to sand the top with 80 grit sandpaper. Then move up to 100, then 120, 150. The cracks are there to stay. If you truly want to use this for cutting, then you can not have a film finish. You options are limited to a food grade Mineral Oil. You can buy that at any drug store. If you want something a little better, then try Boos Brothers Mystery Oil. The link is http://www.johnboos.com They make butcher blocks and all things related to that.


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## HowardAcheson

Using that chopping block to actually prepare food would be unwise. It is falling apart and food particles and juices will permeate the wood, cracks and seams. This makes for an unsanitary condition that could lead to illnesses. 

If you want to fix it up, use it only as a decorative piece.


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## cabinetman

Sand the top as suggested. I would blow out the cracks as best as possible. I wouldn't use any putty. I would force in TBIII into the cracks like you would be packing a bearing. It's a matter of continued pushing the glue into crevices. Then use some ¾" bar clamps and clamp it up tight until you get squeeze out. Allow a day being clamped and then sand off excess glue.

Then, do persistent oil applications several times a week, until it's just gorged to the hilt. Continue to do a weekly application.










 







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## SeniorSitizen

That block looks to me as if it has been stored in a dry area. I'd be for moving it into a moist atmosphere for several weeks to determine if the cracks would close, then sand and vacuum the dust from any remaining cracks and oil liberally.


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## pwalter5110

I agree with what cabinet man said. Except I would try to use epoxy. Maybe west coast system epoxy. It has more of a gap filling property and is also water resistant. Fill the cracks with as much glue as it will take, and clamp the heck out of it.


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## LastBattle

*Good Information*

I really appreciate all of your council, especially about the use for food prep. The top is in better shape, though the photo may not reflect it.

Another question.. which is better a belt sander or disc.. I am a novice and do NOT want to get carried away. Would like the tool recommendation that best fits this application.

Bob


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## GeorgeC

A disc sander is much more aggressive than a belt sander. It is also much harder to control.

If the top is very uneven you could start to remove large amounts of material with a disc sander and then go to a belt sander.

Regardless, you will want to finish with a sander that is capable of a better finish.

George


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## cabinetman

pwalter5110 said:


> I agree with what cabinet man said. Except I would try to use epoxy. Maybe west coast system epoxy. It has more of a gap filling property and is also water resistant. Fill the cracks with as much glue as it will take, and clamp the heck out of it.


Epoxy would be a better adhesive if the gaps were to remain. Epoxy works best if it has some density. By clamping up the wood, and getting squeeze out, most of the epoxy would be removed. So, for this type of repair, I would use TBIII.









 







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## cabinetman

LastBattle said:


> Another question.. which is better a belt sander or disc.. I am a novice and do NOT want to get carried away. Would like the tool recommendation that best fits this application.
> 
> Bob


I would start with a belt sander, as IMO it's more aggressive. It's more difficult to control than a disc type (ROS). There will be an initial build up of probably a gummy goo, and the belt will load up, and become ineffective and need to be changed. 

Once you get down to cleaner wood, I would switch to a random orbit sander. For the belt sander, you may need to start with a 50x and move to an 80x aluminum oxide belt. I wouldn't use any belt smoother than an 80x.

For the disc sander, you would likely start with an 80x, and progressively run smoother discs up to 320x.









 







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## SeniorSitizen

LastBattle said:


> I really appreciate all of your council, especially about the use for food prep. The top is in better shape, though the photo may not reflect it.
> 
> Another question.. which is better a belt sander or disc.. I am a novice and do NOT want to get carried away. Would like the tool recommendation that best fits this application.
> 
> Bob


Being a novice, a belt sander would be the the last portable tool you would want in your hands. They have a sharp learning curve and occasional practice is always a plus.

I recommend using a random orbit sander.


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## pwalter5110

SandburRanch said:


> Being a novice, a belt sander would be the the last portable tool you would want in your hands. They have a sharp learning curve and occasional practice is always a plus.
> 
> I recommend using a random orbit sander.



I agree. A belt sander is the fastest way to remove a lot of wood. But if you aren't used to using one you can remove to much. A ROS would take a while, but with a little patience, you can have a nice finish when its all said and done.


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## GeorgeC

cabinetman said:


> I would start with a belt sander, as IMO it's more aggressive. It's more difficult to control than a disc type (ROS). There will be an initial build up of probably a gummy goo, and the belt will load up, and become ineffective and need to be changed.
> 
> Once you get down to cleaner wood, I would switch to a random orbit sander. For the belt sander, you may need to start with a 50x and move to an 80x aluminum oxide belt. I wouldn't use any belt smoother than an 80x.
> 
> For the disc sander, you would likely start with an 80x, and progressively run smoother discs up to 320x.
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You and I must be writing about two entirely different disc and belt sanders. I just noticed that you referred to a random orbit sander (ROS)as a disc sander. Two entirely different products.

 THIS  is a small, air powered DISC sander.

I have one much larger. I would never use it on any piece of furniture in any but the mosdt basic removing wood activity.

A belt sander is not that hard to learn to use. The main thing to learn is that you must keep it moving.

George



George


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## SeniorSitizen

GeorgeC said:


> A belt sander is not that hard to learn to use. The main thing to learn is that you must keep it moving.
> 
> George
> 
> 
> 
> George


Let me state it in a different way. This butcher block is *NOT* the place for a novice to learn how to operate a portable belt sander.


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## jigs-n-fixtures

Wipe the whole thing down with mineral spirits, however many times it takes to get the wipe rag to come off clean. 

Then, use epoxy to seal the larger cracks. 

I'd recommend a router with a bowl bit, and side rails to flatten the top. There are instruction on the web. Search for "router flattening sled". 

Then use a random orbit sander to finish with. 

Final finish is dependent on what you want to do with the table. If it has cleaned up well enough that you want it for a cutting block, then mineral oil. Otherwise, whatever film finish you are comfortable with.


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## GeorgeC

SandburRanch said:


> Let me state it in a different way. This butcher block is *NOT* the place for a novice to learn how to operate a portable belt sander.


Why not? It is certainly not the type of surface upon which you need or expect to get perfectly flat.

All he is going to be trying to is is get the top relatively flat.

A belt sander is not that hard to use unless you have two left hands. (and are right handed.)

He will never have another opportunity to use the belt sander on a surface where perfection is not required. Plus working on end grain will greatly reduce the cutting action.

George


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## LastBattle

Thank you for the good information. On this project, I will stay away from the Disc Sander. That would create more problems and most likely 50 more questions on this forum to solve them. I will start with the Belt for the sides, _which are way more rough_.. and use the ROS,_ slowly_ for the top and see how I progress. The top is very smooth already.....

The Belt Sander is somwhat easy to control, but I do not need to rush to a bad decision on this. The recommendation to fill cracks so they are resistent to moisture is excellent. The table has three LARGE rods/bolts that hold it together. I will check to see if they can be adjusted. 

You all have amazing wisdom and would love to have you as my next door neighbor right now.. .


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## commodore

Another finish option is beeswax. I bought a product years back that was a mix of beeswax and citrus oil specifically marketed for butcher blocks. I am not sure what to think of using fillers or glues to fill the gaps, since if you use the block for what it is intended to be used for you will end up with small bits of the filler material in your food. Some of this stuff maybe tasteless and nontoxic but some may build up in your system and lead to health concerns. But then again if we get to concerned about contamination and cleanliness wood cutting boards and blocks are out of the question.


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## SeniorSitizen

GeorgeC said:


> Why not?
> 
> George


This is why not.

The block as it sits is valued in the $200.00 - $300.00 range. After the gouges and grooves from the result of the belt sander, not to mention the splotched look an attempt to fill cracks is going to cause, I'd estimate the monetary value to drop to $50.00 if one is very lucky.


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## cabinetman

GeorgeC said:


> You and I must be writing about two entirely different disc and belt sanders. I just noticed that you referred to a random orbit sander (ROS)as a disc sander. Two entirely different products.


The OP used the word "disc" in post #8, which wasn't made clear exactly what type of sander he was referring to. The reference I made was to his use of "disc", which I made clear by putting ROS in parenthesis, as you can see in my quote below.



cabinetman said:


> I would start with a belt sander, as IMO it's more aggressive. It's more difficult to control than a disc type (ROS).


Thanks for bringing up the differences. I don't usually recommend air sanders, as many members don't have compressors that can support them.









 







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## GeorgeC

SandburRanch said:


> This is why not.
> 
> The block as it sits is valued in the $200.00 - $300.00 range. After the gouges and grooves from the result of the belt sander, not to mention the splotched look an attempt to fill cracks is going to cause, I'd estimate the monetary value to drop to $50.00 if one is very lucky.


You must really have a problem using a belt sander. What kind of sander do you have? I have never, ever had problems like that or seen anyone else have those type of problems.

With those kind of problems I also would not use a belt sander.

George


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## LastBattle

All good information here... I will keep you posted on my progress... Even though it is heavy, I will get some help to lay it down and do the bottom of the block first. That way if I make a major mistake, the only ones who will ever see the mistakes are my dogs, a guest or family member laying on their back on the kitchen floor, _(not often occurs)_ or very small children. That should help me get the feel of the wood and the use of an orbital sander..

Good estimate SanburRanch.. that is exactly what I paid for it...Again, helpful suggestions and the comments are appreciated...


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## LastBattle

*Finished Project*

The project is now complete. Thank you for all of your suggestions!:smile:

Bob


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## LastBattle

*Project Complete*

Thank you for all of your suggestions. I learned a lot. :yes:


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## HowardAcheson

I would be very leery about actually using the butcher block for food preparation. In all likelihood, it is deeply soaked in meat liquids and various and sundry cleaning products. In my opinion, it just wouldn't be safe. It is virtually impossible to fully and properly sanitize something like this. Every one of those cracks and glue-line failures is perfect path for deep seated germs.


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## Larry Phillips

Bob, do not use wood fillers for open cracks, they don't work, trust me. What I recommend is when sanding, save the sawdust, mix sawdust with Titebond III adhesive (found at HD or Lowe's), fill cracks, let dry for 24hrs, sand smooth. I generally start with a 40 grit on a random orbital sander, followed by 100 grit, then 180 grit, and finish with 220 to achieve a good smooth surface. Then apply several coats of food grade mineral oil. Your butcher block should then be a piece you can use for many years to come to prepare meat, etc.


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