# A Minecraft chest



## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

My oldest (first of 3 girls) is turning 10 on Dec 29th, so it's time to start the tradition of giving them something special for the major event. I decided a chest would make the most sense....durable, useful, and heirloomish.

Fortunately, the design for this first girl is a pretty easy choice....we're both Minecraft fans. For those unfamiliar with that (how could you be??), Minecraft is a game where you can do pretty much whatever you want, build whatever you want, etc. It's a sandbox game, and we enjoy it a lot.

One of the objects in the game is a minecraft chest where you can store stuff.

















So that's what I'm going to attempt. And just to make it fun, I figured I'd log it as I went. Dunno if the showcase thread is the place for stuff that's not yet showworthy, but meh...

The first thing to decide was dimensions. Fortunately the DESIGN is already there, but the dimensions are unknown. Officially, in the game, the chest would be a meter square. I decided that was a bit large for a chest. At the same time, the actual picture of the chest is made up of 16 pixels...so in other words, each side is made up of 16 little squares. So, if I just use 1" for each square, then that makes it easy to convert to measurements I can use. But a 16" square chest is kinda small. So, I decided on a 2' square chest. Doing that, I just have to convert the measurements of each side by multiplying by 1.5.

So, in the chest pic, you can see that each side of golden colored wood is surrounded by a border of dark wood (forget the rectangular patterns on each side, I'm not going to bother with those). Measuring from the top down, the dark border is 1 square, then 4 squares of golden wood, then 1 square dark, then 9 squares golden, then 1 square of dark, for a total of 16 squares. Multiplying by 1.5 gives the width of each section I'll need.

The top is the easiest part, since it is a 16pixelX16pixel (2'x2') square, including a 1pixel border all the way around of dark wood. To figure out the width of that border, I just multiply the number of pixels (1) by 1.5, so the border will be 1.5" thick.

Now on to wood selection. The dark wood is easy...walnut, since I have a decent enough supply. The white latch on the front I'm not worried about yet. So, that leaves the main wood everywhere else. I have hemlock, red and white oak, and ash on hand that could handle this. I started with the hemlock because I had some very large boards, it looked a good color, and was easy to work with. But I began to have doubts after planing some down, because I began to see just how easy this stuff was to gouge. Not a very good choice for a chest she'll probably be taking to a dorm room some day.

I posted a thread in the forums and got some good feedback on which wood to use, and oak seems to have won the day.

With 4 sides and a top (I'll use plywood for the bottom) that need to be 24" square, I began to try to collect the wood I would need. The oak doesn't actually need to be 24" because of the borders of walnut. So, I only need boards 21" long, and then glued up to make the pieces for the bottom and the lid.

This isn't quite the hardest undertaking I've done, but it's close, and as usual, last minute. Thankfully I have no christmas projects competing for my time this year.

I'll be posting progress (or lack thereof) as I go. Just know that by Dec 29 I'll either be done or despondent. :boat: Feel free to offer suggestions...in fact, I'm practically begging you to.


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## Travico (Dec 25, 2012)

Now, this is going to be INTERESTING!!!


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

I'm interested in seeing how this works out. I might have to shield my son's eyes from it though. Lest I be tasked with another project. He loves Minecraft!


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Here is all of the oak I should need, ready for jointing and planing.

I was able to joint all of it and plane most of it. I'll finish tomorrow and then cut the pieces to their rough size and see what I've got.

I just realized I already probably could have done something better. Instead of having a 1 and 1/2 inch border of walnut all the way around, I could have had it be a 1 and 1/2 inch inlay of walnut. It would have made making the Oak part simpler as just a simple 2 foot by 2 foot square. Oh well.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Looking forward to seeing how this works out.


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## lilman (Nov 22, 2012)

Never got minecraft figured out, but I grew up with pixelated video games. I'm ready to watch this unfold.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Minecraft's charm comes from its completely open world... The graphics aren't an emphasis. It's actually not a low res game like the kind we grew up with. It's rare nowadays to get a game where gameplay is better than the graphics. It's like a movie with plot instead of special effects.

One thing I haven't quite figured out yet is how I'm going to join everything. Butt joints will work, but I'm thinking the kind where there's a small rabbit on each edge. It's more the order of doing it I'm not sure of. I could build the bottom of the chest, and then the lid... Or I could build the complete 2x2 front and back and then rip them through the walnut strip to make the lip front and back. I'm not sure my table saw could handle a 2'panel though... that's a lot in front of the blade.


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## lilman (Nov 22, 2012)

Box joints? Or should I say pixel joints? May not fit in your design, but it could fit the scheme.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Heh, that's true, any square shape would probably fit in well with the pixel look. But it would draw attention to the corners too much I think. Plus to be the right shape, the end grain showing would have to be 1.5" thick.. That would be tricky since I'm just shooting for between 1/2 and 3/4" thick walls. (wall thickness isn't so much a concern to me.. Anything over 1/2" should be plenty strong). 

If I had MUCH more time, I could actually assemble each side out of squares.. Kind of like making a cutting board. But I think we'll have a win so long as the colors and dimensions are correct.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I'm trying the best way possible to build this out of easy to assemble parts. So I'm thinking of building the front and back panels separately and then building the side panels to match them. Then in theory I can just join the side and front panels together with the correct rabbet edge.

Here's what I have for the dimensions of the front and back panels for the bottom part and lid.










I think that I'll extend the oak section a half inch in each direction for a rabbet edge to attach to the walnut. So I don't keep calling it a "rabbet edge" what is the name of that kind of joint again, where both boards have a rabbet that kind of interlocks?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

beelzerob said:


> I think that I'll extend the oak section a half inch in each direction for a rabbet edge to attach to the walnut. So I don't keep calling it a "rabbet edge" what is the name of that kind of joint again, where both boards have a rabbet that kind of interlocks?



Are you thinking of a locking rabbet? :smile:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Hmmm... If that's what that is, then no. Heh. That's a rabbet and a groove, right? That could certainly work, if it's easy to do. I think what I had in mind was two rabbets that sort of connected but not necessarily locked together. Maybe it doesn't even have a specific name I just know I've used it before to put together drawers.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I jointed one edge of the pieces of oak, and now I'm going to rip cut out the biggest "good" piece I can.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Sorted according to width, now to mix and match to get good looking glue up panels. 









But alas, a birthday party to go to, so it'll have to wait. Hopefully I can actually get one glued tonight.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> Hmmm... If that's what that is, then no. Heh. That's a rabbet and a groove, right? That could certainly work, if it's easy to do. I think what I had in mind was two rabbets that sort of connected but not necessarily locked together. Maybe it doesn't even have a specific name I just know I've used it before to put together drawers.


Perhaps this?
http://www.table-saw-guide.com/image-files/double-rabbet.jpg


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Yes! That was the joint I was thinking of. Very simple once you get the correct dado blade height.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

We got back late from the party, and I really didn't want to go downstairs to the shop... But I knew I wouldn't get anything done sunday (football), so with some encouragement from my wife (she has Christmas projects to work on down there), I went down and got 1 panel glued up.










Progress every night....I hope.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I'm starting to try and give thought to how the 4 corners of the chest will be connected. I'm leaning towards the locking rabbet joint, since that should be easy enough to accomplish on my table saw with dado blade. But I'm concerned it may not be strong enough. Granted, this is a chest, not a bed or something that will be stressed in a lot of different directions, but I'm trying to build with longevity in mind. I could, I suppose, glue a 3/4" square stick into each corner on the inside. That would at least give me some glued edges with the grain.

I'm also starting to think about how the bottom will fit in. I'm just going to use 3/4" plywood. The walls of the chest will be 5/8" thick, so I could cut a rabbet 1/4 deep, but that doesn't seem like a lot of surface area to hold it in. It seems unlikely that anyone would be lifting this chest, full of anything, without holding the bottom of it as well.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> I'm also starting to think about how the bottom will fit in. I'm just going to use 3/4" plywood. The walls of the chest will be 5/8" thick, so I could cut a rabbet 1/4 deep, but that doesn't seem like a lot of surface area to hold it in. It seems unlikely that anyone would be lifting this chest, full of anything, without holding the bottom of it as well.


Dado 1/4" deep 1/4" off the bottom, 3/8 ply should be more than adequate.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, precious days are slipping away and I did not get any progress done recently, so I'm starting to stress a little. The main problem is just knowing for sure what to do next. I am *NOT * a "wing-it" kind of guy, so the lack of clear directions on this project is un-nerving.

So, to try and add some certainty to what I'm doing and where I'm going, I'll try to develop the list of steps. Please interject anything you think I'm missing of have wrong.


Glue up 4 panels of oak to be the bottom 4 sides of the chest. The finished dimensions should be 13.5" X 21", so for now, add a half inch to all sides, so 14.5" X 22".
Rip the panels to a finished height of 13.5"
Choose which panels are the front and back, and edge-glue a 1.5" strip of walnut to the "bottom" of the panel, and a 3/4" strip of walnut to the top. The walnut should extend to the edge of the oak (so, 22" long).
Cut a rabbet along the edges of the front and back, 1/2" wide and 3/8" deep.
Take a piece of walnut, 2" wide and 15 1/2" long and cut a rabbet along it length, 1/2" wide, 1/4" deep. This should fit into the rabbet along the edge of the front and back.
I now should have a finished front and back panel for the bottom part of the chest.
The sides will fit between the front and back, so the dimensions of the walnut on the sides will have to be reduced by the width of the front and back, which is 5/8". That means that for the sides, it is the same steps as the front and back, except the walnut on the edges is (2" - 5/8") = 1 3/8" wide. Then, if we're going to do the locking rabbet thing with the front and back, then I have to add 1/4" to the width. So, 1 5/8" wide.

That's of course not nearly done, but that at least gives me some pretty clear guidance for the short term.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Got busy tonight and glued up two more panels. While waiting for the glue to dry enough so I can put in the next panel, I started preparing the walnut. I realized I could have saved a step by including the walnut in the panel glue up, but it's too late now since I'm already on the third panel. I'll try it on the 4th panel tomorrow night


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I made a cedar chest for my daughter with the locking rabbet joint you're thinking of and it's held up for 10 years now. Looking forward to seeing it come together.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

How deep was the rabbet? The chest walls are only 5/8", so I'm thinking no deeper than 1/4".


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Cutting the locking rabbet joint on the table saw can be done with one setup. For 5/8" stock use a 5/16" dado blade, set 5/16" high, with a 5/16" space between the fence. One piece gets cut with a miter guage, the other gets cut standing on end against the fence. :smile:


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

You can also use a 5/16" bit in your router table with the same setup. :smile:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Good suggestion. I like the idea of setting it all up and then not having to reconfigure anything until all pieces are done.

I was considering using a router bit instead of the dado blade just for the cleaner rabbet, but my router table is woefully small, and it would be hard to handle the 16X21 panel on it.

Along those lines, the one thing I'm lacking to do as you suggest is something to support the panel upright as I move it along the fence. Looks like I'll be having to make a jig of some kind.

Before I wait too long, I'm beginning to give a thought as to the hardware. I had imagined large brass hinges (2) on the back for the lid. no locking mechanism at this time on the front. But something to keep the lid from going past 90, and at the same time ease the lowering so that no little fingers are mashed would all be nice.

I've looked on rockler and hardwaresource.com, but nothing obvious looks like a good fit yet. Part of the problem is that the supports appear to be for a chest that has a flat lid, and my lid is definitely not flat, it's almost like another box. I can attach something from the wall of the box to the wall of the lid, if the support handles that.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> Good suggestion. I like the idea of setting it all up and then not having to reconfigure anything until all pieces are done.
> 
> I was considering using a router bit instead of the dado blade just for the cleaner rabbet, but my router table is woefully small, and it would be hard to handle the 16X21 panel on it.
> 
> ...


Perhaps something like this would work:
http://www.rockler.com/lid-stay-torsion-hinge-lid-support-rustic-bronze?sid=AFX43


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I like those, but they appear to be for a flat lid, not the "boxed" lid mine has.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> I like those, but they appear to be for a flat lid, not the "boxed" lid mine has.


Seems like they would work as pictured in the lower right illustration. Might have to add a small square strip across the inside back of the lid flush with the bottom to catch all of the hinge?


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Near as I can tell from their installation instructions, if I have a lid that is 5/8" thick, then I'd have to add about another inch to that part of the lid to have enough for the hinge to cover. I'm concerned that might look a little weird. I'd basically just add a 1" thick by maybe 2" wide board across the inside back wall of the lid. Among the problems with that, I'm pretty sure I don't have 1" stock, so I'd have to laminate a few pieces together for that. Still, it is worth considering.

At this point I may punt and simply worry about normal hinges. I can add a safe closing mechanism AFTER the party.

I'm considering now about how I'll cut the rabbets in the panels, since I HOPE to be able to tackle that this weekend (unlikely). I'm not sure exactly what that kind of jig or support would be called....something that supports tall panels while you run their edge across the dado blade. I've seen a few pics of jigs that slip over the fence, and I have 3/4" plywood and MDF on hand.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Much later now, and I've finally got all 4 sides of the bottom glued into panels. 











Now I'll trim them to the correct width, which is 22" (21" side plus half inch rabbet on each end) . I have the walnut ready to go that will attach on the end vertically. I just have to cut a half inch Rabbet in both and glue them together. At this point I'll also decided which is the front, sides, and back.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I have to quit for the night because I'm starting to mess things up. I want a half inch rabbet overlapping the walnut and the oak on the end, but I think I've been confusing which one goes in front and which goes in back, so the widths are wrong. Fortunately I realized this before cutting the rabbets in the panels, but after a lot of time setting up the dado for the cut and running some of the walnut through. I'll try later when I can think again.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> I have to quit for the night because I'm starting to mess things up. I want a half inch rabbet overlapping the walnut and the oak on the end, but I think I've been confusing which one goes in front and which goes in back, so the widths are wrong. Fortunately I realized this before cutting the rabbets in the panels, but after a lot of time setting up the dado for the cut and running some of the walnut through. I'll try later when I can think again.


You made the right call. When things star getting muddled in our mind it's time to call it a day. It's better - and safer - that way.


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## crazytiki (Jan 25, 2011)

yes great call on stopping. Better safe then sorry. Also can't wait to see the finish project. My wife is a fan of the game to I might have to make one of these.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Yesterday, with a clearer head, I fully drew out how things will connect together and I feel a little more confident about continuing now. The only sucking part is I had to switch from the dado back to the rip blade and then to the crosscut blade and now back to the dado. So, it was just time wasted....nothing irreversible was done. The only real problem at this point would be messing up the 4 panels I've glued up, because that would be a definite setback.

Tonight I plan to continue forward with the 1/2" rabbets on the walnut and the panel so I can join those together, and hopefully by mideweek I'll be looking at making the locking rabbets for the 4 sides.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Cut the half inch rabbets in the panels and walnut pieces, and glued up two of them.










These are the front and back. I cut the rabbets for the side pieces too, but I won't glue those until I've cut the locking rabbets.

I started to set that up, but grew tired and frustrated with it, so I'm done for the night.


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## Kahlua (Dec 6, 2012)

I'm curious as to what the plan is to make it look pixelated. Tape and stain and a lot of patience?


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I've pondered that a little, but I'm pretty sure I'll be darn lucky just to get it done in time....so fancy stuff like that I probably won't be able to do, unless I repossess it at some point.

My thoughts had been to either use an exacto knife to draw lines on it faintly, or to mask off squareish areas and apply extra shellac there. If I have extra time, I'll experiment, it is those little touches that make things nice. 

I got brave and cut the lock rabbets. No major flaws, and I was able to do my first test fit. I'd add pictures, but the forum app is crashing when I try. I'll try again later.

Edit: oh, it did add the pictures, it just didn't tell me


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

*Lookin Good*

YAY! Locking Rabbets! :thumbsup: Did you cut both pieces with one set up? :smile:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Yes! That suggestion worked very well. I of course ran several test pieces through first, but it worked great.

I got around having to run the panel through upright. I just put off gluing that walnut connecting piece until after I had cut the lock rabbet in it. Made them much more manageable. So now I'm going to glue them to their panels.


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## Kahlua (Dec 6, 2012)

Are you making a smaller box for the top like the actual chest?

This build makes me happy.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Yes, the box top will be the next project. I probably should have done them at the same time, but I needed to break this project down into manageable pieces.

Building the top will be very similar to the bottom. 4 sides and then join them with the top top .


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Looking good! Even without the minecraft-ization, it's still shaping up to be a beautiful piece.

Who's that scrolling in the background?


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

That's my bundled up wife, scrolling out Christmas gifts in the cold basement shop. We don't often work on the same project, but we like working in the shop at the same time.

So tonight I can cut the 3/8" plywood for the bottom. I was going to put a dado in the sides, 1/4 from the bottom, but that presents some problems. I can't run the dado across the width of the front and back, or the dado will be visible on the corners. That would seem to mean using the router so I can start and stop the dado. I just don't have much of a router table surface to work with.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

On pondering this on the way home, I think I'm going to go with a rabbet along the bottom, instead of a groove, for the bottom piece of plywood to fit in. I should have plenty of room to put some brads in along the bottom into the sides to help hold it in. That the glue would be enough, I think...I can't fathom someone trying to move a filled chest without supporting the bottom *somehow*. And I'm kind of scared to have a "suspended" bottom because I'd hate to have it sag over time. As long as none of the brads are proud of the surface, then it should be scootable very easy.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I'm at a bit of a standstill, and I keep switching back and forth between two choices, so that means I need to put it on hold for a while and work on other things.

I can't decide if I should cut a rabbet and lay the plywood into it on the bottom of the chest, or cut a dado about 1/4" from the bottom and slide the plywood into that.

I like the idea of the rabbet, as the bottom won't be floating. It would almost make moving the chest around on the floor easier. But I'm concerned about its strength, since the bottom would only be held on by the glue attached to the top of the plywood. I considered putting brads through the plywood into the walnut surrounding it, but there I'm concerned about splitting the walnut. The rabbet would probably be at most 5/16" deep, since the walls are only 5/8".

The dado I could do, but the bottom would be floating which could mean sagging, and moving the chest on any carpet would be difficult. However, to minimize that, I could just cut out a small 6" square of wood, 1/4" thick, and glue it to the bottom of the plywood, thus supporting the center. I'd be on the bottom, so looks wouldn't be a concern.

The final question is if I should fully glue in the plywood if I use a dado, as opposed to letting it float. I'm concerned about letting it float since then only the 1/4" thick wall of walnut would be holding the plywood in...really only a problem if the chest isn't sitting on the ground I suppose. I only ask about gluing in case wood movement would be an issue. I've never had to deal with it before, and I don't know if I need to be concerned about it. I believe that the issue with movement would be for the bottom piece itself, anyway, correct? And since I'm using plywood, that's not an issue. Correct?


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

With plywood, I'd say glue. It won't give movement issues as solid wood will. Glue will give it the strength you need. Looking good, by the way.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well it's the sprint to the finish now... Less than 1 week. I'm already beginning to count on what we DON'T need to do in order to at least present it. I don't work all this week, which is great, but it's also ridiculously busy social-wise.

I did manage to glue up the top.









Which presents its own problems. I'll need to square it, but it's too big for my crosscut sled. Sooo, today we build a bigger one!


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> Well it's the sprint to the finish now... Less than 1 week. I'm already beginning to count on what we DON'T need to do in order to at least present it. I don't work all this week, which is great, but it's also ridiculously busy social-wise.
> 
> I did manage to glue up the top.
> 
> ...


As long and wide as that piece is, you can safely square it up using your rip fence. With the time crunch, save building new sleds for when you really need to.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

How do I square it with just the fence?


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> How do I square it with just the fence?


I was under the impression that the one edge is already pretty square. At least it looks that way in the picture. If so, just run that edge along the fence and make the cut just like any other.

If that edge (the one opposite the jagged edge) is not square already then you can tack a guide strip onto the jagged edge. Allow the guide strip to ride the fence to square up the almost-straight edge. Then remove the guide and run the newly-cut edge along the fence to take care of the jagged edge.

I hope that makes sense. I tried to find a picture demonstrating what I mean. Basically, tape or tack a straight-edged strip of wood, hardboard, whatever, on top of the board you're cutting. The strip needs to be wide enough to allow you to attach it to the jagged side of the workpiece and have IT protrude out farther then the workpiece. Make sure it's attached squarely to the straight, ripped edges of the board.

Then you just ride that guide strip along the fence to cut the opposite edge. Then you can remove it and square up the jagged edge.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

If I didn't explain that well enough let me know and I'll take a picture of a mock-up and post it for you, if you want.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I appreciate the explanation, but I had already committed down the sled path. It didn't take long, I did it while the glueups were dying. I haven't used it yet, but I'm hoping to today.

The today is to glue together the bottom half of the chest. To do that I will need to route the groove in the bottom of the sides for the plywood.

I started with the back piece in case it didn't go well... and it didn't.










that's what happens when you try to route on a table too small for the object. 









So the next plan of attack is to set up using the handheld router. If I can come up with something that is easily repeatable for all four sides then victory will be achieved.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Much better success this time. I used the router to create a spacer that represents the distance from the straight edge to the blade. Then I use that spacer and a piece of plywood to offset the straight edge from the edge of the side I'm about to route.










I then add a little support piece for the router to sit on and away I go.










Perfect! Two sides down, 2 to go. But it's not looking good to get the bottom glued up tonight. I have to sand the inside of all the sides 1st and the evening's Christmas Eve activities are quickly approaching. We'll see.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

It's looking good. Good luck with it.


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## Jcahill4 (Jul 21, 2013)

It's the 26th. Did you get it done?


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Heh.. Fortunately for me, my deadline is the 29th, not Christmas . It's for my girls 10th birthday. But that doesn't comfort me much... There's lots to do the next 3 days!


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

It's beginning to get crunch time (or maybe "crunchier" time). I got this done yesterday:

The top top (top of the top part of the box) is glued up. 24" square by 3/4" thick
The bottom (all 4 sides and plywood bottom) are glued together. whew!
All of the parts are there for the 4 sides of the top. 

So today's task is to use the dado blade to cut the lock miter's for the top 4 sides. Doing that, I SHOULD be able to glue up the top of the chest by tonight.

That means I have to make a trip to the store today, or tomorrow, to find some nice large brass hinges for the back. 

That also leaves me with one of the few things I'm still not sure about too. Like I said, the top of the top is solid wood, 3/4" thick. I currently have everything measured out so that the top just rests on the top of the 4 sides that make up the lid. I know that wood movement was mentioned before for the bottom , but being plywood that wasn't a problem. This is solid wood...is it going to have major problems? I had planned to glue down the top to the 4 sides....should I use some kind of brackets to hold it down instead? I had also considered cutting a square of plywood and gluing that to the bottom of the top part, so that it would create a snugger fit for the top and the sides of the lid...is that even worthwhile? Suggestions are welcome!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

beelzerob said:


> So today's task is to use the dado blade to cut the lock miter's for the top 4 sides.


Be sure and post pics of this process, sounds interesting.

I wouldn't glue the solid wood top. :smile:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Hmm..any suggestions then on how best to secure it to the 4 sides of the lid? If I glue a piece of plywood on the underneath side that perfectly fits the 4 sides, it will sit snuggly in there, and I'd just need some pretty minor brackets to keep it from lifting up I suppose.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

beelzerob said:


> Hmm..any suggestions then on how best to secure it to the 4 sides of the lid? If I glue a piece of plywood on the underneath side that perfectly fits the 4 sides, it will sit snuggly in there, and I'd just need some pretty minor brackets to keep it from lifting up I suppose.


Gluing solid wood to plywood is not a good idea either. It needs to be attached to allow for expansion/contraction like you would attach a solid wood tabletop. There are several ways of doing this. I would probably add a couple of horizontal rips to the inside of the box and screw through elongated holes into the top. :smile:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ah, I understand. I like it because it doesn't require special hardware! And the screw holding down the top are just snug, right?

Here's the bottom of the chest now.









Here it is with the top part of the lid resting on it, just to show. I'm more pleased than I thought I would be so far how it's coming together and how the dimensions look 
. So far it is still taking the shape and look of a minecraft chest.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

*Lookin Good!*



beelzerob said:


> Ah, I understand. I like it because it doesn't require special hardware! And the screw holding down the top are just snug, right?



Yes, run your rips with the grain direction of your top, elongate the holes to allow for movement across the grain. Use a pan head screw with a fender washer. snug them fairly well but not as tight as you would normally. :smile:


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

The box is looking great so far.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

The final stages. She's finishing up the sanding and then will start putting on the shellac.









I'm about to attach the top to the box lid.









I put a piece of plywood on the top the help stabilize the lid, and that's what I'll attach the top to, through the elongated holes.









Then all that remains is the huge hinges I got.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

It's 1 am, and it's done, and so am I. With 13 hours to spare.


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## Kahlua (Dec 6, 2012)

That looks awesome! Now to fill it with diamonds and golden apples.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

It looks really good. I like that you put the wife to work on the sanding.


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## landman (Sep 1, 2013)

Kahlua said:


> That looks awesome! Now to fill it with diamonds and golden apples.


 And it DOES look like the photo in the first posting. I had no idea of what minecraft is until my granddaughter clued me in on Christmas Eve.


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## kms399 (Apr 13, 2013)

turned out really good! I showed this to my son now he wants me to build one.


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## Carvel Loafer (Dec 31, 2011)

I don't really get the Minecraft thing, or any video game for that matter, I never did get into gaming, but I do admire the chest you built. Very nice!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## lilman (Nov 22, 2012)

Whoa! That turned out perfect, I'm sure shell love it.


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## Jcahill4 (Jul 21, 2013)

I am a minecrafter, and that looks amazing. I thought it was a small box until the final pictures. Wow, that looks great. Just like the game!:blink:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Thank you all for the very kind responses. I'm just now "returning to life" as it were. I'm just glad it's over! I've now got 3 days of fun to have before I go back to work.



Kahlua said:


> That looks awesome! Now to fill it with diamonds and golden apples.


:laughing: I think it was easier to build this chest than it is to find either of those things in a minecraft world!



Chaincarver Steve said:


> It looks really good. I like that you put the wife to work on the sanding.


She's awesome. She's plenty skilled at woodworking herself, but is more than happy to do the menial jobs too...which is what I consider sanding. Our ROS sure got a workout....basically we'd fit together parts, glue or clamp them, and then sand them to flush. The results were great....but boy was that a lot of sanding. :blink:

We had a pretty good system going where she'd be applying shellac in one room to the bottom half of the chest, and I'd be sanding the top half in the other room, and then we'd swap. No way I would have gotten even close to done in time if she hadn't been there.



kms399 said:


> turned out really good! I showed this to my son now he wants me to build one.


Hahah...please do! I'm pretty convinced that we did this the hardest way possible, and I'd love to see how someone else tackles the same problems. Or, you could go for the win by making a *double chest!*












Jcahill4 said:


> I am a minecrafter, and that looks amazing. I thought it was a small box until the final pictures. Wow, that looks great. Just like the game!:blink:


Ya, when deciding what size to build it, I just held up my hardstick and put my thumb at 2' and decided that was about right....but once it's all built, then it does seem pretty large. I can't image making it the "correct" size, which would be 1 meter cubed.


Here are some random observations and discoveries from the last fever rush to the finish:


Our internet was out for about 40 hours towards the end, which is why I couldn't give any updates, but also caused a near panic when I needed to verify where the "nose" on the trunk went. Thankfully, Minecraft pocket edition to the rescue!
I left the lid open the night before so it could all dry out, but I notice when opening it now that there is a pretty strong "industrial" smell from inside. I don't know if that's just from the drying glue or what. Should I just prop it open for several days and hope it goes away?
The screws I had bought to put on the massive hinge were just slightly too long, based on holding it up to the back of the box and checking before drilling. They would have poked through. So, I had to take the screws to our belt sander and and their points down. That also meant the holes had to be deep enough to accommdate a blunt head...thank GOODNESS I found my depth stops. The holes are like 1/32" from going through.
Do NOT let glue touch your iron table saw top. When we glued the bottom part together, I did it upside down so that the lid rim would all be even. That did work out great! However, the glue that squeezed out and touched the iron top turned black, and being endgrain, soaked into the wood quite a ways. I don't know what the phenomenon is, but apparently iron turns wood glue black. Lesson learned.
Our little belt/disc sander gave it's life during this endeavor. It's an old Craftsman we got at an auction for $40, and has worked quite well. Occassionally, the motor would produce some smoke, but we'd then give it a rest, and it would keep on going. This time, there was a LOT of smoke. I've decided not to test its limits anymore. We have an oscillating spindle/belt sander, so we're fine for now...I'm going to try to find just a replacement motor for it.
Someone had asked for descriptions of how I did the lock rabbets, and I would have, but I kind of messed up the last set. The wood I was using was too short to safely run against the fence (it would have fallen through the hold in the zero clearance insert), so I had to adjust the fence and run them through face down. Either way, where I learned pretty much all of it was from this video: 





However, I just set it up initially with the sacrificial fence and did not have to make any adjustments between the two cuts. Very quick once setup.
Again, thanks for all of the kind words and the favorable comparisons to the in-game chest. :smile: It was kind of a leap of faith to start this thread, since if I failed, it'd be a forum spectacle! But I kind of knew I would be needing advice and help throughout the project, and so I figured it was better to have an ongoing discussion instead of several specific "emergency" posts on how to fix something. Thanks for all the great advice and support throughout.

As for the little girl....heheh, well, it's asking a lot for a 10 year old to enjoy furniture. She likes it, I know, but I also know she's more excited about the Wii Mario game she got than she is about the chest. :laughing: And I totally understand....I was that age too, and had the same kind of enthusiasms. This is a long-term gift....it'll outlive any particular video game.

We have this little desk that we keep moving around the house, trying to find a useful place for it. It's a small desk, I think mainly made of plywood. Right now it's used by one of my girls in the school room. Why do we have this little desk still?? Because my father-in-law made it for my wife when she was a kid, and that means a lot more to her than the particular utility of it. So, we'll keep moving it to various rooms and finding a use for it, but she'd never consider just tossing it. It'd be unthinkable. THAT'S what this chest will be to my girl, in time.

Still, this was a long painful build that ate up pretty much all of my holiday vacation. I now have two and a half years before my next girl turns 10....and I'm thinking she might get a birdhouse instead. :shifty:


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