# Planer blades - hone and reset



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I decided to do a quick and dirty honing job on my planer blades and took some photos as I went:

I first set the height gauges to the existing blades at one end.








I then loosen the gibs screws by turning them up.








Then I knocked the gibs downward to free up the blade.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Part 2*

I honed the back side of the blade with a diamond hone. Then put the blade in the wooden jig on some 320 wet/dry and lub. About 10 stokes renewed the edge. I reset the blade using the super magnet planer jigs, tightened the gib screws and called it good.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hey Bill,

This is a very timely thread for me. I was just thinking I need to do the same for my planer. I was looking at the directions over the weekend and I think i could get them out okay. It's getting them back in and aligned properly that I am worried about. Any tips on that?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Pretty much like I showed*

But it depends on your planer...make model, type of blades. Mine is old school so it's real straight forward. I have several types of setting jigs and wanted to try out that one. It's not available at the moment the site is "under construction" from Summit Tools. 
The only thing I could think of for a height reference was the existing blades, so that's where I started since it was working fine.
Also the wooden jig is a short one I used for my 6" jointer knives. I'll need to make a 12" for the planer blades. Yah, the wood gets sanded off a little, but if you located the pressure down over the blade it's minimal.
This was as much an test/experiment as anything just to see how things went. I have to do a full grind sharpening soon., so I'll post that up also. bill


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> But it depends on your planer...make model, type of blades. Mine is old school so it's real straight forward. I have several types of setting jigs and wanted to try out that one. It's not available at the moment the site is "under construction" from Summit Tools.
> The only thing I could think of for a height reference was the existing blades, so that's where I started since it was working fine.


 
got it...thank you sir.....I have a ridgid 4330. 3 blades. I may just take it in for maintenance. I am decent at working with wodd....lousy at working with machines.....lol


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

I am totally shocked beyond belief, using a claw hammer to adjust machinery.:blink::laughing::thumbsup:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You bet!*



H. A. S. said:


> I am totally shocked beyond belief, using a claw hammer to adjust machinery.:blink::laughing::thumbsup:


NOTICE: Certain liberties were taken during the photograhic phase of this post and do not necessarily represent the most ideal procedures .... resulting in the use of tools and methods necessarily available and closest to the camera and photographer. A 13 oz rip hammer struck on an aluminum block will result in the freeing of the gibs as will a ball peen hammer, a dead blow hammer, a claw hammer or any object with sufficient mass and or velocity. Prying did not seem like a good idea and wouldn't have worked anyway...... BTW Only you would have noticed that.....  bill


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

bill did you make the wood block? I saw one for sale at a major woodworking supply place.. seems like it should carry two blades over the sandpaper...


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