# Ranger canoe



## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Finally got started on my first strip canoe 
Was able to get the strong back built and leveled 
Before the rain came in still have to put the top on but all in all felt pretty good getting that done


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## Ostie (Dec 19, 2010)

Subscribed! I'm hoping to tackle one of these myself before long, so I will tuned in to learn as much as I can.


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

staples or not? did you caulk the base to the floor? and remember to get an assistant or four to help when you get to the fiberglass/epoxy .


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Haven't really made my mind up about the staples of not 
Think they could make it easier but I don't like the holes it leaves behind but on the other hand I just don't know much about not using them
This is deff going to be a learn as I go type project 
With that being said ideas suggestions and or any advice would be greatly appreciated


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

GROOVY said:


> staples or not? did you caulk the base to the floor? and remember to get an assistant or four to help when you get to the fiberglass/epoxy .


Yes I used some liquid nails around the base 

At the rate I'm moving it going to bs a while before I need help but thanks I'll put that in the ole bank


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Ostie said:


> Subscribed! I'm hoping to tackle one of these myself before long, so I will tuned in to learn as much as I can.


If your really interested I got my plans from bear mnt boats also ordered the book canoe craft with the DVD from nick offerman great info in both


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

Also subscribed.

Kayak and canoe building are definitely above my pay grade but seeing it done is an inspiration.


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## rocklobster (Jun 18, 2008)

Looks like you're off to a solid start. I'm looking forward to seeing this unfold. Good luck.

Rob


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Staple-less is the way I like to go, but if you're looking for an easy build use staples and then go back with a damp rag and an iron after you pull the staples. Most of the holes will fill themselves and never be visible once you glass it. 

Good start so far. Boat building is really enjoyable.


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks for the advice and support I appreciate it


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## bmitch (Sep 9, 2012)

new to the site,thought i'd share some ideas that worked for me.i have to say ,it was the best project i've ever undertaken.


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## bmitch (Sep 9, 2012)




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## bmitch (Sep 9, 2012)




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## bmitch (Sep 9, 2012)




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## bmitch (Sep 9, 2012)

bicycle tire tubes worked very well,especially when you get to center cuts,your wood strip is already in position to make accurate cuts at both ends .


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## GROOVY (Apr 27, 2008)

Now that a good idea, with the dowel. I used big rubberbands with a S hook attached to a screw in forms. That thing was wicked when for whatever reason it came undone, coulda put an eye out or something.


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Now that's an idea thanks alot I haven't even thought of doing something like that 
Btw that's a beautiful boat great job


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Finally got the lid and center line on the strongback .
Thought the strong back was going to be the easy part. I was wrong!!


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## bmitch (Sep 9, 2012)

best to take all time needed to make the strongback perfectly,same as the stations,allignment of these components on the strongback are crucial to a succesfull build.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Subscribed for sure. Looking good.
:thumbsup:


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## scoffey (Mar 1, 2011)

Looking good!


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Mitch 
Your boat is great I was wondering what design and size is it 
Also was wondering if you knew around how many LF of striping it took

Went and got some tubes today from a friends tire shop 
Thanks for the advice


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## Fishinbo (Jul 23, 2012)

How splendid to look at your incomplete lovely canoe. I will be watching this closely.


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## bmitch (Sep 9, 2012)

Hutt said:


> Mitch
> Your boat is great I was wondering what design and size is it
> Also was wondering if you knew around how many LF of striping it took
> 
> ...


 it's a 16' prospecter design from canoecraft book.i may have had 70 strips,but i picked up basswood because i wanted the light strips on top,i cut up shorter lengths for that.i only put on 3 strips a side per day,allowing time for the glue to set up.the tubes really allowed me to fit every strip perfectly,especially when you get to bottom of canoe where strips begin to meet.this gave me some spare time to build my yoke and seats.i hope you have as much fun building this as i did.i'm looking forward to your posts.


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## Hutt (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks alot Mitch you've been alot of help so far 
I have some more question for ya though if you don't mind sharing your wisdom I was getting stuff together to get ready to start to build but was thinking about the epoxy they say you epoxy the steams together is that something you did or did you face glue with titebond I was trying to hold off on buying the epoxy due to price but if I need it through out the build I guess I'll have to go ahead and purchase 
Also what kind did you use
Thanks


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## bmitch (Sep 9, 2012)

i went with the west system.i used the west filler powder to thicken to a consistency for laminating the stems,for my seats and yoke i laminated black walnut and butternut.i used alot of epoxy on this project,might have applied 6 coats on the exterior,3 coats on the inside.fortunately the bear mountain shop was a short drive for material,and i had to keep going back for more.


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## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

count me in on this one. I really enjoy these threads...


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