# Gearbox on a Craftsman Portable Table Saw



## Landlocked (May 30, 2011)

Recently I purchased a used table saw, a Craftsman 21806, 10 Inch, 15 Amp Portable Table saw. Though I was told up front that the 'motor didn't work' I couldn't pass it up for the price. 

I took it home, blew the sawdust out of the motor, plugged it in and turned on the switch. The motor itself kicked in beautifully, but I could hear an unexpected growling sound that continued after power was cut. After removing the motor from the saw it became apparant that something isn't right within the cast aluminum gearbox.

I can't find a good blowup diagram of the gearbox or any information on how to get inside to see if I can just buy a replacement gear. searspartsdirect has partssheets, but the diagram looks different enough from my gearbox that I can't trust it.

One side of the gearbox has the armature embedded into it, while the other has the arbor assembly, offset from the alignment of the armature. The only screws on the outside of the box are attached to a armature plate, but that plate isn't attached to the arbor assembly, instead it looks like it's just there to anchor the arbor assembly in place. It lifts up freely once the screws are removed, though the arbor itself prevents it from being removed.

I don't want to damage the gearbox if I can avoid it so am hoping someone here has some experience with this saw, and information on how to open the gearbox up.

Thank you for any help that can be provided.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Ever hear the term, throwaway tool?
I wouldn't be surprised if the part needed is available, it comes complete with the motor, for close to what the whole tool cost to buy, new.

Good luck. Be sure to post the outcome.


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## Locodcdude (Oct 24, 2010)

Assuming you paid close to nothing for the saw, you might want to just go out and treat your self to a nice brand new saw, or a better used one that's in pretty good condition.


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

It's a gearbox, so it stands to reason that it is made to be serviced. They had to assemble it, and I just don't see them welding it closed after assembly - no reason to do that.

I am guessing as to where it's located, but you might have to remove the table to gain access to it. Possible that the whole thing was assembled then the table attached as the cover.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

"Stands to reason" No offence, but have you been in a coma for 10 or 20 years? Most lower price machines are not made to be serviced. It breaks, throw it away. It's sad, that it's come to this.

Sort of like cheaper riding mowers. No axel bearings. They just ride on the aluminum transaxel housing. Then there are the lower end lawnmower engines, with no main bearings! Meant to be serviced? Sure, but you need to replace the engine cases. Very sad.

Get a belt drive saw. Motor dies. Most any motor will work. Belt breaks. Get a belt. Spindle bearings wear out. Buy new bearings. Simple, and it works.

It's a lot cheaper to make a saw with a combined, cheap motor and gearbox. I wouldn't expect a cheap saw, with a gearbox, that has to stand up to the power of the motor, load, and hi rpm, to last very long. I have an old Unisaw and a cheapo Ryobi, I use when I need a saw in a different place (rental house) I bought at a yard sale for $10. The saw jumps when starting, and screams. I expect it to die at any time.


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

There's no reason to get nasty about it.


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## toollovingschultz (Jan 10, 2011)

Land locked I just checked on parts direct for the gearbox it came up Under motor assembly. The cost of this saw new is $175 but a phone number comes up and ask you to call for availability. here is a link gear box is part 14 I think and cost $16.10? http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/0744600/50027410/00008?blt=06&prst=&shdMod= My brother threw out a brand new sliding miter saw because he snapped the kneck that fastened the saw to the table in a accident I fixed the saw for $30 and he wanted it back he figured I couldn't get the part.
Andy


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## Landlocked (May 30, 2011)

*Thanks for everything so far*

Thank you all for your input so far. The motor assembly does detach from the mounting plate, with great difficulty. Once that is done the gearbox can be detached from the motor, though it takes the armature with it once detached.

The armature may be attached to the gearbox by a pressure fit bearing, but I was hoping for confirmation before I began testing that theory. The attachment of the arbor jutting out from the other side of the gearbox is less easy to understand. 

The arbor ball bearing has four paired raised edges placed on opposite sides. If I take a blunt screwdriver, place it on a raised edge and give it a light tap with a mallet the bearing rotates whichever way I tap it. However rotating the bearing in either direction doesn't seem to raise or lower it noticably (to suggest any sort of screw mount), though it does cause the armature to seize up. It seizes regardless which direction I rotate it, and always returns to freely rotating once I tap the bearing back to the original position.

Since the saw did not cost me a lot, the next step will be to try to pop the bearings out by force, and hope for the best. Regardless the results I'll try to post pictures and descriptions in case it helps someone else with a similar repair/discard dilemma.


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## fijidad (Jun 21, 2013)

*Same Saw, Same Problem*



Landlocked said:


> Recently I purchased a used table saw, a Craftsman 21806, 10 Inch, 15 Amp Portable Table saw. Though I was told up front that the 'motor didn't work' I couldn't pass it up for the price.
> 
> I took it home, blew the sawdust out of the motor, plugged it in and turned on the switch. The motor itself kicked in beautifully, but I could hear an unexpected growling sound that continued after power was cut. After removing the motor from the saw it became apparant that something isn't right within the cast aluminum gearbox.
> 
> ...


So, did you ever figure out how to disassemble the gearbox? The only thing I can think of is the funky looking bearing cover on the side opposite the armature...but how does one get this off to access the gears? Regards, Dan


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*2 year old thread*



fijidad said:


> So, did you ever figure out how to disassemble the gearbox? The only thing I can think of is the funky looking bearing cover on the side opposite the armature...but how does one get this off to access the gears? Regards, Dan


landlocked hasn't been back in 2 years. It's unlikely he will return....
We don't know if he was a "one issue" poster, but probably.

Sometimes fixing an old broken tool is more of a challenge than a necessity. If the tool was a bargain, cheap, free, then it's only worth your time. You have no investment. On the other hand, maybe you got fleeced.... :blink:


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## fijidad (Jun 21, 2013)

woodnthings said:


> landlocked hasn't been back in 2 years. It's unlikely he will return....
> We don't know if he was a "one issue" poster, but probably.
> 
> Sometimes fixing an old broken tool is more of a challenge than a necessity. If the tool was a bargain, cheap, free, then it's only worth your time. You have no investment. On the other hand, maybe you got fleeced.... :blink:


Understood....I already bought a Dewalt DW745 as a replacement, and am back up and running. But it's the mechanic in me that wants to get to the bottom of the matter. Someone earlier said "it was assembled, so it must be able to be disassembled." And that's the premise I'm working on. Just curious, but at the same time, if it's feasible, and cost effective, I'd like to get it back running again. I've had it for about 8 years and it's served me well. I am wondering if I caused the problem by using a dado blade on it. The new Dewalt specifically says not to use a dado. That's disappoiinting in a $365 saw, but I guess you don't get much for your money anymore. For all its attributes, the motor looks just like the one in the Craftsman.


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## fijidad (Jun 21, 2013)

fijidad said:


> Understood....I already bought a Dewalt DW745 as a replacement, and am back up and running. But it's the mechanic in me that wants to get to the bottom of the matter. Someone earlier said "it was assembled, so it must be able to be disassembled." And that's the premise I'm working on. Just curious, but at the same time, if it's feasible, and cost effective, I'd like to get it back running again. I've had it for about 8 years and it's served me well. I am wondering if I caused the problem by using a dado blade on it. The new Dewalt specifically says not to use a dado. That's disappoiinting in a $365 saw, but I guess you don't get much for your money anymore. For all its attributes, the motor looks just like the one in the Craftsman.


Well, the Dewalt 745 lasted about 30 minutes. Either I got a lemon or they are fragile. And I was cutting redwood! Fortunately Dewalt has a 90 day return policy and Home Depot took it back and gave me a refund. I'll be reading the advice in this forum abut selecting a table saw now.


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## Ray Bayless (Jun 9, 2013)

Craig's list---I just bought a 17yr old craftsman CI table, CI wings, belt drive, 1.5hp for $100.00. I don't think you can go wrong. Some people buy them and let them sit. This one wasn't hurt. That makes 3 TS at the house.


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## fijidad (Jun 21, 2013)

*Jet!*



fijidad said:


> Well, the Dewalt 745 lasted about 30 minutes. Either I got a lemon or they are fragile. And I was cutting redwood! Fortunately Dewalt has a 90 day return policy and Home Depot took it back and gave me a refund. I'll be reading the advice in this forum abut selecting a table saw now.


So I found an older 10-inch JET table saw with router table extension, a Hitachi plunge router, 40 bits, etc for $330 in Big Bear, CA, and have had great success with it! Belt drive, great fence, special miter. All good. I expect this guy will last my lifetime. I checked with the JET factory, and the dado guard is no longer made. Any suggestions on how to get or make one? Regards, Dan


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*dado guard?*

whazzat? If you mean the insert that fills the gap around the blades and the rest of the table then we know what you mean. Dado insert.
There are many ways to make them or you can buy specific sized blanks to fit your saw, possibly EBay may have the original one.

The best one is a ZCI which means there is no gaps where the blades come through the insert making for a tearout free cut. Make the insert, secure it down with the fence over a safe place, turn on the saw, raise the blade up to the desired height ....slowly :yes:


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