# how to remove glossy spots in satin sheen/finish table?



## spitfire9200 (Jul 1, 2014)

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a coffee table at a furniture store and it has a satin sheen/finish to it. I noticed at an angle in the right light I can see a few glossy spots in it. I tried using some pledge and a micro fiber, but it didn't do anything. They almost look like shiny grease spots, but they aren't white, they are just shiny spots of the same color.

I've heard of using a warm iron and a cloth, Mohawk super blush retarder, and trying a rag damp with mineral spirits. I'm hesitant to try anything before I ask people with experience! I've tried exchanging it twice, but both replacements had big chips. 

Any help is appreciated and I can upload pictures if that would help in any way!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

spitfire9200 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I recently bought a coffee table at a furniture store and it has a satin sheen/finish to it. I noticed at an angle in the right light I can see a few glossy spots in it. I tried using some pledge and a micro fiber, but it didn't do anything. They almost look like shiny grease spots, but they aren't white, they are just shiny spots of the same color.
> 
> ...


The warm iron and cloth won't do anything for it and the retarder thinner might damage the finish. If the spots are related to wax build up the mineral spirits might help as it would cut the wax. It at least wouldn't hurt the furniture. 

Pictures would help but I suspect that some packing in shipping has just rubbed the satin thin on the spot, more or less polishing a spot. For now do as little as possible until someone can determine what is going on. If the satin has been rubbed thin rubbing it with something abrasive like a scotchbrite pad or steel wool may be the only fix without applying another coat of finish over the top. The problem with making it satin by rubbing it is normally the sheen looks more cloudy and uneven than it should so it would be good to avoid that. 

They put a powder which looks like baby powder in a finish to make it satin. As the finish dries the powder comes to the surface and interups the gloss sheen. What is underneath has less of the powder and therefore glossier. That is how they make finishes in different sheens. Its the amount of the powder.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself. If you fill out your profile in your "User Control Panel", you can list any hobbies, experience, occupation, or if retired…from what, or other facts. You can also list your general geographical location which would be a help in answering some questions. In doing that your location will show under your username when you post. 

Pictures would help, so we can see what you're describing. Without that it's just pure guesswork, and proposing a fix might do more harm than good.






















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## spitfire9200 (Jul 1, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> The warm iron and cloth won't do anything for it and the retarder thinner might damage the finish. If the spots are related to wax build up the mineral spirits might help as it would cut the wax. It at least wouldn't hurt the furniture.
> 
> Pictures would help but I suspect that some packing in shipping has just rubbed the satin thin on the spot, more or less polishing a spot. For now do as little as possible until someone can determine what is going on. If the satin has been rubbed thin rubbing it with something abrasive like a scotchbrite pad or steel wool may be the only fix without applying another coat of finish over the top. The problem with making it satin by rubbing it is normally the sheen looks more cloudy and uneven than it should so it would be good to avoid that.
> 
> They put a powder which looks like baby powder in a finish to make it satin. As the finish dries the powder comes to the surface and interups the gloss sheen. What is underneath has less of the powder and therefore glossier. That is how they make finishes in different sheens. Its the amount of the powder.


I'll take some pictures and post back. I've read about good results with the retarder aerosol, but I definitely don't want to damage the finish. I just want an even finish. I like the satin look, but I hate the inconsistency. Honestly, in light, the finish looks all satin, then when you sit down, the shiny spots poke through. It's odd. Almost as if the shiny spots are under the finish, or they could be the wax build up you suggested. Should I try the mineral spirits?


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## spitfire9200 (Jul 1, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself. If you fill out your profile in your "User Control Panel", you can list any hobbies, experience, occupation, or if retired…from what, or other facts. You can also list your general geographical location which would be a help in answering some questions. In doing that your location will show under your username when you post.
> 
> Pictures would help, so we can see what you're describing. Without that it's just pure guesswork, and proposing a fix might do more harm than good.
> 
> ...


Sounds good! I will post pics after work.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

spitfire9200 said:


> I'll take some pictures and post back. I've read about good results with the retarder aerosol, but I definitely don't want to damage the finish. I just want an even finish. I like the satin look, but I hate the inconsistency. Honestly, in light, the finish looks all satin, then when you sit down, the shiny spots poke through. It's odd. Almost as if the shiny spots are under the finish, or they could be the wax build up you suggested. Should I try the mineral spirits?


There is no reason you can't try mineral spirits. I suspect it will do nothing but it won't harm the finish in any way. Just clean it and dry it with another clean cloth. If there is any wax on the surface the dry rag should pick it up. 

Do this outside if possible. Mineral spirits stinks and the fumes are flammable.


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## spitfire9200 (Jul 1, 2014)

Will have pics up tomorrow. Sorry for the delay, got home late. I appreciate everyone's help!


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## spitfire9200 (Jul 1, 2014)

Sorry for the delay! Pictures can be found here:

http://imgur.com/a/qMRcD#0

The first pic captures them the best at that angle, but I included a lot so you can get a good idea of what they look like.


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## spitfire9200 (Jul 1, 2014)

cabinetman said:


> We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself. If you fill out your profile in your "User Control Panel", you can list any hobbies, experience, occupation, or if retired…from what, or other facts. You can also list your general geographical location which would be a help in answering some questions. In doing that your location will show under your username when you post.
> 
> Pictures would help, so we can see what you're describing. Without that it's just pure guesswork, and proposing a fix might do more harm than good.
> 
> ...





Steve Neul said:


> The warm iron and cloth won't do anything for it and the retarder thinner might damage the finish. If the spots are related to wax build up the mineral spirits might help as it would cut the wax. It at least wouldn't hurt the furniture.
> 
> Pictures would help but I suspect that some packing in shipping has just rubbed the satin thin on the spot, more or less polishing a spot. For now do as little as possible until someone can determine what is going on. If the satin has been rubbed thin rubbing it with something abrasive like a scotchbrite pad or steel wool may be the only fix without applying another coat of finish over the top. The problem with making it satin by rubbing it is normally the sheen looks more cloudy and uneven than it should so it would be good to avoid that.
> 
> They put a powder which looks like baby powder in a finish to make it satin. As the finish dries the powder comes to the surface and interups the gloss sheen. What is underneath has less of the powder and therefore glossier. That is how they make finishes in different sheens. Its the amount of the powder.



Photos linked! Please let me know if I need to embed them instead of linking them. I wanted to maintain the resolution


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The spots are most unusual. I think the table was just made that way and you didn't see it in the store. There appears to be ridges in the core below the veneer and I think the finish was just rubbed thin in those spots in the process of finishing it. I think the only real fix is to put another coat of finish over the top. This is something that will need to be sprayed regardless of what kind of finish you use. I would recommend you have a furniture refinisher do this. If you choose to do this yourself start with a wax and grease remover such as Dupont Prepsol solvent and clean any polish that might have been put on the table. After that you could play with it with a automotive scotchbrite pad and see if you can rub the spot to blend in. If it didn't work go over the entire top with the scotchbrite finish the top. Before you choose a finish, pick an inconspicious spot somewhere on the table and put a drop of lacquer thinner on it. If the finish tries to melt then it would be compatable with lacquer and you could use lacquer on the top. If the finish wrinkles up it's an oil based finish and would need to be topcoated with an oil based finish. If the thinner sits there and does nothing then it's probably a conversion varnish. You could put a oil based finish over a conversion varnish but scuff sand the finish with 220 grit paper instead of the scotchbrite. It would be a much better finish though to put a conversion varnish on.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Can't really tell from the pictures, as there seems to be a variety of problems. You might just try wiping down the surface with mineral spirits. When dry try rubbing the surface with a brown paper bag (like a shopping bag).


















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## spitfire9200 (Jul 1, 2014)

Thanks for the responses. I tried to exchange the table twice and the other two had physical blemishes, but didn't have those spots. I got 50% off the table so I might have it refinished. Is another option lightly polishing the rest of the table to match?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

spitfire9200 said:


> Thanks for the responses. I tried to exchange the table twice and the other two had physical blemishes, but didn't have those spots. I got 50% off the table so I might have it refinished. Is another option lightly polishing the rest of the table to match?


It wouldn't be necessary to take the finish off. Another finish can be applied over the top. Polishing the table may be an option but expect the rest of the top to become glossier like the spots. All you would have to do is lightly rub the entire top with 0000 steel wool and wax it. If it didn't work the wax can be easily removed and another coat of finish put over the top.


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## spitfire9200 (Jul 1, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> It wouldn't be necessary to take the finish off. Another finish can be applied over the top. Polishing the table may be an option but expect the rest of the top to become glossier like the spots. All you would have to do is lightly rub the entire top with 0000 steel wool and wax it. If it didn't work the wax can be easily removed and another coat of finish put over the top.


Ok cool sounds easy enough. Yeah I was debating just shining up the whole thing instead  

Thanks a lot for the help guys!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

spitfire9200 said:


> Ok cool sounds easy enough. Yeah I was debating just shining up the whole thing instead
> 
> Thanks a lot for the help guys!


Applying a new finish is more difficult than it's made to sound. If you have the experience and equipment to spray, it can be done. Before going to all that trouble, I would try a simple fix first. I wouldn't use steel wool as IMO it's too abrasive. You might try the white Scotch Brite pads. Or for starters try the brown paper bag rub.


















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## bennetba (Jul 24, 2016)

No, I have the same thing on a large mahogany table. It almost looks like the large shiny spots are a result of something developing in the wood. I want to sell it, but no one will want it like that.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

A problem in the sheen on a table top can just be difficult for most people to contend with. Unless you have the means of spraying another coat on you probably should leave it alone. You might be able to hand rub it to a pretty uniform sheen but it certainly will be glossier and slightly streaked unless you bring it to a high gloss by buffing the finish. The only way to restore a satin finish on a table top is to clean off any furniture polish that might be on the table and spray a fresh finish over the top.


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