# Home Made Table saw fence ideas?



## ScottyB

My old Delta table saw has an old tube style fence. The fence rides on tubes on both sides of the table.

It works, but I don't trust this fence without checking it for square after each adjustment. This is just way too much of a PITA. :wallbash:

I have been toying with the idea of a different fence but didn't want to change the feel of the saw. I like the feel of using something that old. I have finally decided that the nostalgia of the old fence is not worth the hassle of measuring and squaring the fence each time. Unfortunately, even a 'cheap' fence seems to be cost prohibitive at around $180 in this financial climate.

I have been thinking about making my own fence using angle iron or aluminum and dressing it out with some wood. Has anyone else done this before? What did you do to provide adjustments for squaring? What else might I be missing on this? I already figured I would have to get some kind of tape to use as a rule. Still trying for figure out how I would clamp it in place but the idea is that it would be a T-square style fence.

Any ideas you guys have on this would be appreciated.


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## H. A. S.

I've been toying with the same idea. Ground and polished steel rods, and angle iron at 90*. Have to wait for warmer weather now. My plan is to get them perfectly set, then weld the poop out of them.:laughing:


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## woodnthings

*Keep it but...*

If you can drill and tap, locate 2 places on either side as far out from center on the "front face" of the housing. Drill and tap for 5/16" or larger nylon tipped set screws. These will maintain pressure when lightly tightened against the tube. They will be adjustable in and out to set the fence "square" with the table, much like Biesemeyers and Unifence. This is a cheap, and easy fix worth trying if you can before a complete redesign/replacement.

Another thought, depending on how much slop there is inside the housing to the fence would be to sleeve the interface between the two with a thin tube of plastic from a similar sized round container. Possibly a caulk tube? Some thin brass tube from a sink drain may also work. Cut it to length and slip it over the tube then cement it in place or use silicone adhesive to attach it inside the housing, another cheap and easy "fix". It will slide with the fence and maintain "square"

Our member garrswf welded up his own Biesemeyer style fence and was quite happy with it.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/ts-fence-rails-12770/
:thumbsup: bill


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## GeorgeC

ScottyB said:


> My old Delta table saw has an old tube style fence. The fence rides on tubes on both sides of the table.
> 
> It works, but I don't trust this fence without checking it for square after each adjustment. This is just way too much of a PITA. :wallbash:
> 
> I have been toying with the idea of a different fence but didn't want to change the feel of the saw. I like the feel of using something that old. I have finally decided that the nostalgia of the old fence is not worth the hassle of measuring and squaring the fence each time. Unfortunately, even a 'cheap' fence seems to be cost prohibitive at around $180 in this financial climate.
> 
> I have been thinking about making my own fence using angle iron or aluminum and dressing it out with some wood. Has anyone else done this before? What did you do to provide adjustments for squaring? What else might I be missing on this? I already figured I would have to get some kind of tape to use as a rule. Still trying for figure out how I would clamp it in place but the idea is that it would be a T-square style fence.
> 
> Any ideas you guys have on this would be appreciated.


I do not understand your problem. 

The fence on my saw works perfectly well. I still manually check the distance between the front and rear of the saw blades each time I set up to make a new cut. Would you not also make this check each time you set up for a new cut regardless of the fence? 

I do not understand your comment about squaring. I have never "squared" the fence against anything. 

Maybe I am missing something here and have been doing something wrong for many years.

George


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## cabinetman

GeorgeC said:


> The fence on my saw works perfectly well. I still manually check the distance between the front and rear of the saw blades each time I set up to make a new cut. Would you not also make this check each time you set up for a new cut regardless of the fence?
> George


With a properly set up "T" square type fence, that's not necessary.











 







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## garryswf

*Rails and Fence*

Scotty,
With the help of alot of the members on this forum i was able to build my own rails and fence for my Delta unisaw. The rails consisted of 3"x1/4" angle and 2-1/2" square tubing, and the fence was 2-1/2" square tubing constructed to operate just like a Biesmyer fence. Woodnthings posted great pictures for me to use as a reference. The most important tool you will need is a welder, or have a friend that has one. Here is the main thing you want to keep in mind, make the rails long enough to be able to rip at least 26" to 32" to the right of the blade. The pictures that i had posted of mine were deleted by accident but i will gladly post some new ones for you. If you are a hands on and cheap guy:laughing: like i am you will enjoy a project like this.


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## burkhome

woodnthings said:


> If you can drill and tap, locate 2 places, one on either side as far out from center on the "front face" of the housing. Drill and tap for 5/16" or larger nylon tipped set screws. These will maintain pressure when lightly tightened against the tube. They will be adjustable in and out to set the fence "square" with the table, much like Biesemeyers and Unifence. This is a cheap, and easy fix worth trying if you can before a complete redesign/replacement.
> 
> Another thought, depending on how much slop there is inside the housing to the fence would be to sleeve the interface between the two with a thin tube of plastic from a similar sized round container. Possibly a caulk tube? Cut it to length and slip it over the tube then cement it in place or use silicone adhesive to attach it inside the housing, another cheap and easy "fix". It will slide with the fence and maintain "square"
> 
> Our member garrswf welded up his own Biesemeyer style fence and was quite happy with it.
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/ts-fence-rails-12770/
> :thumbsup: bill


 Excellent idea...Been measuring from each side of the blade for too many years.


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## woodnthings

*Dear George,*



GeorgeC said:


> I do not understand your problem.
> 
> The fence on my saw works perfectly well. I still manually check the distance between the front and rear of the saw blades each time I set up to make a new cut. Would you not also make this check each time you set up for a new cut regardless of the fence?
> 
> I do not understand your comment about squaring. I have never "squared" the fence against anything.
> *Maybe I am missing something here and have been doing something wrong for many years. *
> George


Let's not say you've been doing anything "wrong" for years, but instead say...There's an easier way.
I'm a "self proclaimed expert on fences", Having 3 Delta Unifences, and 2 Biesemeyers all of which square them selves when locked in position. I had an old Craftsman which didn't and I recall you have that one also? Compared to the old, the newer ones make my woodworking go easier faster and are accurate. I even use the measuring tape on the fence for a whole lot of cuts, since it too is fast, easy and accurate. Some things, like fences, have improved over the years, myself not so much. I donno about you? :laughing: bill


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## Longknife

garryswf said:


> Scotty,
> With the help of alot of the members on this forum i was able to build my own rails and fence for my Delta unisaw. The rails consisted of 3"x1/4" angle and 2-1/2" square tubing, and the fence was 2-1/2" square tubing constructed to operate just like a Biesmyer fence. Woodnthings posted great pictures for me to use as a reference. The most important tool you will need is a welder, or have a friend that has one. Here is the main thing you want to keep in mind, make the rails long enough to be able to rip at least 26" to 32" to the right of the blade. The pictures that i had posted of mine were deleted by accident *but i will gladly post some new ones* for you. If you are a hands on and cheap guy:laughing: like i am you will enjoy a project like this.


Please do that! I have to build a new (better) fence for my combination machine and I can't afford any of the high end fences. I have read your thread and I think that's something I will make but the pictures would be helpful.


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## garryswf

Hope this helps, there are a couple more on the next post


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## garryswf




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## ScottyB

woodnthings said:


> If you can drill and tap, locate 2 places, one on either side as far out from center on the "front face" of the housing. Drill and tap for 5/16" or larger nylon tipped set screws. These will maintain pressure when lightly tightened against the tube. They will be adjustable in and out to set the fence "square" with the table, much like Biesemeyers and Unifence. This is a cheap, and easy fix worth trying if you can before a complete redesign/replacement.
> 
> Another thought, depending on how much slop there is inside the housing to the fence would be to sleeve the interface between the two with a thin tube of plastic from a similar sized round container. Possibly a caulk tube? Cut it to length and slip it over the tube then cement it in place or use silicone adhesive to attach it inside the housing, another cheap and easy "fix". It will slide with the fence and maintain "square"
> 
> Our member garrswf welded up his own Biesemeyer style fence and was quite happy with it.
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/ts-fence-rails-12770/
> :thumbsup: bill


I don't think it is the tube that is causing the fence to go out of square. As it is not a T-square design it requires both tubes but I think the problem is both ends of the fence don't move together. The fence is bolted to the near side and has a slight pivot regardless of how tight I cinch it down. If the fence was solidly square to the adjustment assembly I don't think I would have this issue. The difference has been as bad as 3/8" from the front of table to the back. I get this even if I back off the tension screw all the way off before moving the fence.

This is so bad that any time I adjust the fence I have to pull out an adjustable square and small rubber mallet to tap the back end into position. This is no way to use a fence. I was thinking about something like what Garryswf built, I just didn't see the post when I was searching for it.


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## ScottyB

GeorgeC said:


> I do not understand your problem.
> 
> The fence on my saw works perfectly well. I still manually check the distance between the front and rear of the saw blades each time I set up to make a new cut. Would you not also make this check each time you set up for a new cut regardless of the fence?
> 
> I do not understand your comment about squaring. I have never "squared" the fence against anything.
> 
> Maybe I am missing something here and have been doing something wrong for many years.
> 
> George


I guess I'm using the wrong term here, George. I guess I am having to check that the fence is parallel to the blade on each adjustment. It seems to me that this should be unnecessary. Even if there is normally a little variance in the fence being parallel, 3/8" seems overly excessive.


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## ScottyB

garryswf said:


> Scotty,
> With the help of alot of the members on this forum i was able to build my own rails and fence for my Delta unisaw. The rails consisted of 3"x1/4" angle and 2-1/2" square tubing, and the fence was 2-1/2" square tubing constructed to operate just like a Biesmyer fence. Woodnthings posted great pictures for me to use as a reference. The most important tool you will need is a welder, or have a friend that has one. Here is the main thing you want to keep in mind, make the rails long enough to be able to rip at least 26" to 32" to the right of the blade. The pictures that i had posted of mine were deleted by accident but i will gladly post some new ones for you. If you are a hands on and cheap guy:laughing: like i am you will enjoy a project like this.



Thank you for this info and the pictures. I may need to pick your brain a bit as I attempt this. I don't have a welder but I have some friends that have the welders and experience to use them. A cam handle would be nice but I think a screw would work ok.


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## rrich

Scotty,

When a complete Biesemeyer Fence system is available for $420 or $360 I have to wonder if the effort to make your own fence is worth it.


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## ScottyB

rrich said:


> Scotty,
> 
> When a complete Biesemeyer Fence system is available for $420 or $360 I have to wonder if the effort to make your own fence is worth it.


I guess that depends on whether or not $360+ is a sum that you would have to part with. I have to do my woodworking on a shoestring budget that just got much tighter.


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## rrich

Scotty,
I understand.


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## woodnthings

*Too much slop*



ScottyB said:


> ...... The difference has been as bad as 3/8" from the front of table to the back. I get this even if I back off the tension screw all the way off before moving the fence.
> This is so bad that any time I adjust the fence I have to pull out an adjustable square and small rubber mallet to tap the back end into position. This is no way to use a fence. I was thinking about something like what Garryswf built, I just didn't see the post when I was searching for it.


In that case I would try this first as I posted but later added the brass tube: 
Another thought, depending on how much slop there is inside the housing to the fence would be to sleeve the interface between the two with a thin tube of plastic from a similar sized round container. Possibly a caulk tube? Some thin brass tube from a sink drain may also work. Cut it to length and slip it over the rail tube then cement it in place or use silicone adhesive to attach it inside the housing, another cheap and easy "fix". It will slide with the fence and maintain "square"

You could combine the 2 ideas also... Cheap fix! :thumbsup: bill

BTW put some teflon, plastic, or brass or other slippery material on the shoe that's on the far end of the fence to decrease the drag when sliding. That's also throwing the fence off. If you can snug it up on the front rail the far end will take care of itself if it's free to slide....JMO


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## ScottyB

rrich said:


> Scotty,
> I understand.


Rich, 

I apologize if that sounded snippy. It wasn't my intent and certainly wasn't called for.

Scott


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## rrich

Scotty,
No apology is necessary. You did not sound snippy at all!

I've been in that situation many times. I KNOW how it is. I've patched floor boards with flattened oil cans and pop rivets so that water wouldn't splash through and get everything wet.

Please my apologies if my response sounded that I was irritated. I just don't know how else to emphasize with your situation.


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## Longknife

Thanks to AJP:s generous sharing of old issues of Shop Notes I found an article in issue 50, page 30 http://www.mediafire.com/?d6pk0rg2i0o7urw about the Biesemeyer fence. Good explanation and drawings of the function. Perfect for anyone who wants to make his own.


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## H. A. S.

Thanks Longknife for the link. Very good drawings.:thumbsup:


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## TimPa

i guess i'm the crazy one, but i like my jet-lock fence. keep it tweaked and it is trustworthy. my only complaint is the aluminum fence rail has bowed in slightly (1/32") over the years. anyone want to sell one?


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## ScottyB

Thank you Longknife. Those drawings will come in very handy.


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## Burnt_Blade

Is there a way to put a micro adjustment on to this type of fence? (Biesemeyer clone)


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## Pirate

Here are a couple of drawings, that might give you an idea.


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## woodnthings

*Beautiful Drawings Pirate!*

Where did you "pirate" them from or did you draw these up from scratch? :laughing: Nice work! I only see one issue, and that's the bolt that holds the rail to the angle at the bottom. If I recall the rail needs to be tapped and threaded since getting a bunch of nut down inside the rail and locating them might be a problem...unless there was a tapping strip/bar that was pre-drilled and spaced the same as the oversize holes in the rail and slipped in from one end...you think? :blink: bill

EDIT: 4 typos


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## oldmacnut

ScottyB said:


> My old Delta table saw has an old tube style fence. The fence rides on tubes on both sides of the table.
> It works, but I don't trust this fence without checking it for square after each adjustment. This is just way too much of a PITA. :wallbash:
> I have been toying with the idea of a different fence but didn't want to change the feel of the saw. I like the feel of using something that old. I have finally decided that the nostalgia of the old fence is not worth the hassle of measuring and squaring the fence each time. Unfortunately, even a 'cheap' fence seems to be cost prohibitive at around $180 in this financial climate.
> I have been thinking about making my own fence using angle iron or aluminum and dressing it out with some wood. Has anyone else done this before? What did you do to provide adjustments for squaring? What else might I be missing on this? I already figured I would have to get some kind of tape to use as a rule. Still trying for figure out how I would clamp it in place but the idea is that it would be a T-square style fence.
> Any ideas you guys have on this would be appreciated.





Scotty,
I have the exact same fence on my delta 34-307 i am currently going to smash and replace if i cant get this thing to work safely, and correctly.
Ranting aside, i am experiencing the same issue, and came up with a few repairs and ideas, some of which others have mentioned.....
1, i broke it down 100% yesterday to clean and reassembled after cleaning, that removed 70% of the misalignment. I can break the fence down again today and take pictures if you need. Oh, i also changed the direction of the lock handle to where i have to push down instead of up to lock it, and adjusted so that it takes 1/4" of movement to lock the fence, instead of full travel.
2. The main housing that rests on the front pipe, yup it does need a sleeve, there is just way to much slop in it. These old machines have 50/60 years of worn down cast metal, adding material is one of the only options. A brass sleeve, or other material in the front housing is needed. Period.
3. The rear "hook", there are replacements avaliable at sawcenter.com i believe, if replacement is not an option due to limited budget, a sleeve might do the trick to.
Though the process of reassembling this old saw and trying to make it work, both safely and reliably is a pain in my ***, one thing i was spending time on was that dumb fence. 



Im attaching some pics, to show the slop in mine, also, I tried adding some 3/4" material to the fence, and beefing that up with the material helped a little as well.


The pics I took this morning are of the inside of the fence, I took it apart yesterday and wire-wheeled everything I could to clean up any rust, debris/etc. Though I stripped the fence 5 months ago and restored it, this weekend was the first time I used it, and that 5 months had seen more rust, and goop.


http://picasaweb.google.com/oldmacnut/DeltaAssembly#


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## jaydubya

Check this out. i might try it since i want to buy a welder anyway
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1588940


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## Pirate

woodnthings said:


> Where did you "pirate" them from or did you draw these up from scratch? :laughing: Nice work! I only see one issue, and that's the bolt that holds the rail to the angle at the bottom. If I recall the rail need to be tapped and threaded since getting a bunch of nut down isdie the rail and locating them might be a problem...unless the was a tapping strip/bar that was pre-drilled and spaced the same as the oversize holes in the rail and slipped in from one end...you think? :blink: bill


I wish I could take credit for the plans. They were posted on one of the many threads on this topic.
I never made one myself.


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## H. A. S.

jaydubya said:


> Check this out. i might try it since i want to buy a welder anyway
> http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1588940



That's the way all companies should make their fences. It wouldn't cost them that much more. Hell, angle iron is still cheap.

It's amazing how the woodworking world has been getting more into the metalworking world in the last few years.

Make it once, make it solid, make it out of steel.

But, if they did that; they wouldn't be able to sell replacement parts.

One of my old friends used to work for Rockwell International ; one day they brought him out some new blueprints. Some of the parts were going to be made out of nylon/plastic composites, instead of steel. This was back in the early 70s.

The equipment started wearing out faster, so the customer had to buy more tools and parts.

Seems like all companies are cheapening up their tools over the last 30 years+.

That's another thing I loved about Tool and Die work...we did not cheapen up anything.:thumbsup:


They skimp on quality and accuracy...but the machine prices keep going up.


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## garryswf

Scotty,
If you look at the sixth picture i posted you can see the end of the square tubing. When i attached the tubing to the angle i used self tapping screws 1/4". I think i used about twelve or fourteen of them to fasten the square tubing to the angle, it has stayed solid so far. If i had it to do again i would stitch weld the tube to the angle.


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## Hammer1

The Jet Lock fence is actually a very good fence but it may need adjusting and a part. It doesn't matter what fence you have, they all need to be checked for alignment frequently. Failure to do so can mean trouble for the operator and the lumber, never take fence alignment for granted.

There is a rubber bushing in the Jet Lock head next to the cam that engages when the handle is pushed down. These wear out and will knock the fence out when the lock is engaged, a pretty simple and inexpensive fix. You get to this bushing by removing the locking handle which is held by a pin, remove the cam and spring, the bushing is next to the cam. 

Once the bushing is replaced, you can align the fence and make the necessary adjustments. First, make sure the fence rails are tight. The two hex head bolts on top of the fence are loosened to move the fence, then slowly tightened once the bar is aligned. Next you make adjustments to the locking sequence. This is the large straight slotted bolt head facing the locking handle. When adjusted correctly, there should be a double locking feel, first the cam on the front engages, then the back rail lock engages. 

Personally, I prefer the Jet Lock to the newer T style fences. I replaced the Jet Lock on some older saws with both Unifences and Biesmeyer fences. Hate the Bies, cheap particle board, a pain to add auxiliary jigs and sacrificial fence boards to. I like the Unifence but it takes some holes and a locking nut in the fence channel to attach auxiliary items with. I don't like how easy it is to fail to engage the lock when the fence has been taken off and is replaced in the rail. It's just a small twist that engages the fence rail but you have to make sure you have it fully engaged.

I'm in the business and often run hundreds of multiples. Many times, I use a stock feeder. Having a fence that locks on both ends is important when using feeders. An unsecured fence end can be forced out of alignment by the pressure. You can spend a lot of money on a new fence if you want to but the Jet Lock can be adjusted to work correctly.


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## 240sxguy

Hammer, the double locking feel makes perfect sense. I just got an old unisaw and am ready to install a new fence, but if this one can lock straight and true most of the time I will keep it. Is the bushing a delta part of something I can get from the hardware store?


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## ScottyB

garryswf said:


> Scotty,
> If you look at the sixth picture i posted you can see the end of the square tubing. When i attached the tubing to the angle i used self tapping screws 1/4". I think i used about twelve or fourteen of them to fasten the square tubing to the angle, it has stayed solid so far. If i had it to do again i would stitch weld the tube to the angle.


I did take another look at it and it is looking more and more feasible to me. Did you buy that cam lock or did you grind that yourself out of an old hammer?


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## garryswf

Scotty,
No hammer was harmed during the construction of this project :laughing:. I used a piece of 1x2x10 bar stock, traced out what i thought it should look like then used a thin cutting wheel on my grinder to get it close to the shape i wanted then ground it to smooth the edges, for the final touch a good ole fashion file finished the job . WoodnThings guided me somewhat on the camlock.
OMT-if you decide to take this project on i reccomend drilling the off center hole before shaping the camlock handle.


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## SteveEl

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/your-thoughts-about-extended-fence-tablesaw-19503/#post154052


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## H. A. S.

Thanks Steve, excellent information!:thumbsup:


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## BWSmith

Just some early caffeine induced rambling........for those where enough is never enough.


Fence with quick connect air coupling.....one of those coiled hoses coming up from TS's cabmet area.This connects to underside of fence where it rides on rail.Shop air @ 125#

In use theres two air cylinders,fore & aft on fence.Their default position is closed so IOWs the fence is locked.Of course this is adj via mini regulator mounted to TS's cabmet.

Now I want to move fence...pushing button(convieneintly located so its in the perfect place)unlocks air cyl.....but now for the good part....when the cyls open theres also air jets built into bttm of fence that open.This cases an ever so slight lift to whole fence;an air ride of sorts.Making moving fence a breeze haha.

But above is just because of laziness.....to really propel this wonder fence into the next level we need a DRO(digital read out)up about sightline high.Simple addition really....they're so easy to hook up even I can do it.Back to regular programming,BW


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## Hammer1

The rubber bushing is stepped. I don't know if you will find anything similar at a hardware store but replacements are available through Delta repair shops. The bushing may be OK, take a look first. If it's cracked or missing, the locking cam will not function correctly.


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## martik777

Burnt_Blade said:


> Is there a way to put a micro adjustment on to this type of fence? (Biesemeyer clone)


http://woodgears.ca/reader/walters/fence_micro.html


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## mdntrdr

martik777 said:


> http://woodgears.ca/reader/walters/fence_micro.html


 
I think the scrollsaw reindeer ornament would be a better use of material and time. :smile:


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## fearlessjwalker

*Crap table saw improved!*

First checked out this forum a couple of weeks ago for some help on homemade fences... after 10 hours of drilling, tapping, cutting and grinding I can cut 26" instead of the pretty useless 11 1/4"! Love the website.

Mike 
mc2 construction
L.A., CA


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## cabinetman

fearlessjwalker said:


> First checked out this forum a couple of weeks ago for some help on homemade fences... after 10 hours of drilling, tapping, cutting and grinding I can cut 26" instead of the pretty useless 11 1/4"! Love the website.
> 
> Mike
> mc2 construction
> L.A., CA


Nice work. It looks sturdy as all get out. It looks really industrial. What kind of tubing is that? Why limit to 26"...shop space tight? I'm lookin' at the fence lock down handle and it looks like a socket wrench handle. Is that what it is?

Do you have plans for mounting a measure tape to the rail?












 







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## ScottyB

Looks like the tubing is standard u-channel. It is used for mounting conduits and plumbing.


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## tito5

fearless---- do you have any plans or can you do a write up? or more pics....that is what I want to do.


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## martik777

tito5 said:


> fearless---- do you have any plans or can you do a write up? or more pics....that is what I want to do.


http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1588940

Good instructions in that link. I used 1/8" angle iron for everything except the top part that slides which was 1/4". Also, did not bother with the grub screws or brass/plastic spacers (gibs). I just adjusted for square at the t-joint where the fence joins to the slider.


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## fearlessjwalker

Sorry it's taken so long to post some more pics, thanks guys for your interest in this!



> fearless---- do you have any plans or can you do a write up? or more pics....that is what I want to do.


Basically everything is drilled, tapped and bolted together. I ground the bolts off flush with the angle iron then belt sanded the sharp edges. Tek screws work really well into angle iron if you pre-drill them like a micron smaller than the threads. They're not coming out! I strongly recommend a welder, the drilling and tapping gets old after a very short period of time!



> What kind of tubing is that?


Yeah, it's Unistrut. Usually used for mounting conduit:
http://www.diychatroom.com/attachme...view-my-new-service-mast-new-service-mast.jpg



> Why limit to 26"...shop space tight?


I was at a client's house in the middle of a project and was ready to throw the stock fence over their fence! I was in kind of a hurry and didn't think that far ahead. I should have made something removable for transport...next time.



> I'm lookin' at the fence lock down handle and it looks like a socket wrench handle. Is that what it is?


It's off a juicer my girlfriend was nice enough to let me repurpose:
http://www.basequipment.com/Manual-Juicer-by-Johnson-Rose-p/553372.htm



> Do you have plans for mounting a measure tape to the rail?


Yep. Along with a nice laminate sub fence, coming soon!

And then the pics in order:

The stock version in action...yeesh!

The night I "finished" it and was able to make the first good cut.

In it's current configuration attached to a 4x8 work table with casters.

Top view...everything is bolted together. Again, welder and some welding know how I imagine would have made things a lot easier. Note the extra angle iron missing from the second photo. It needed a bit more rigidity. 

And the view from the underside. The little part that grips the Unistrut is aluminum. I recently added a strong spring in there which holds it tight against the Unistrut and makes it slide perfectly square too. I don't yet have a method of keeping it all together when you take the fence off. No big deal. I'll post more when the new mods are done!

Mike


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