# Longboard Transformation :)



## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

Well guys, it's been awhile! Rest assured, I will have you know I'm not done with woodworking.. haha Life's been crazy lately..

At about 3 in the afternoon today I decided I was going to sand down my long board decal.. I got this board used so didn't have a choice for a decal.. I definitely wasn't a fan of the skull, blood, and guns theme.. haha

So I decided to sand the decal off, rip the grip tape off and personalize this sucker 

I have never done any inlays before, but decided I would try my hand at inlaying my signature, "Levi" into the bottom of the deck.  I was SO pleased with how everything went! In fact, by tonight I should have it sanded down and ready to finish!!

Hope you all enjoy this  
Levi


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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

I cut the signature out of 1/8 in. Walnut.. and got to routing out the signature!  I was a little unsure what I was getting myself into. Knowing I only have one deck to make mistakes on. But I asked the Lord to give me the hand of a surgeon as I routed, and He answered my prayer  It went very well!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

That looks great so far...nice work. Freehand routing is a PITA.









 







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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

I'm afraid it will attack the structural integrity.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*possibly*



aardvark said:


> I'm afraid it will attack the structural integrity.


The outer skin of the bottom would be in tension, the top would be in compression, so depending, it may not matter. Probably a lot will depend on the glue's properties and the fit of the inlay. It's a kool idea, regardless. :thumbsup:


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Oh, I love it as well, and longboards don't get the abuse of the performance short models.
I don't think cutting the fibers of a plywood layer or two will hold together with any glues i know. The fiber structure and wood direction are compromised.

Tension on the bottom is critical. My son used to break a short board every week on an average. He was in competition.
We had a board made out of a block of lexan with steel ribs. Cost us over $800 just for the machining and lexan isn't cheap either.. It still had too much bounce and was too heavy but it was totally unbreakable..


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Nice job Levi. That freehand routing can be a little nerve racking. One little sneeze and the job is in the toilet. Looks like you've done a fantastic job on it. Way to jump right in and grab the bull by the horns. Can't wait to see it finished.
:thumbsup:


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## CasinoDuck (Jun 15, 2011)

Only way to find out if it works... is to try it! great job on the free hand indeed:thumbsup:


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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

I appreciate the input and kind words  after a late night sanding and cleaning out the routing I'm all finished up and ready to move on to the top of the deck then, onto the finishing 

I also put the trucks and wheels on and took it for a spin and don't notice any fragility  I think it should be okay, because I only? Routed maybe a 16th deep. 

If it snaps, it snaps. That's just one more thing learned  if not, I won complain! Haha


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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

I accidentally replied twice.. and I don't know how to delete posts with this app... hahaha you would think I should know these things, being a young guy... lol


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Like the inlay but concerned on the strentgh change.

How's the milling going????

Have a Blessed and prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

A great job Levi. I totally agree with what the others have said. Hand routing in a royal pain! However, you have made it appear easy. :thumbsup:

My only concern is how it will stand up if you are one of those extreme skaters who like to slide the board on rails or the top edge of a pit. Seems to me that would ruin all your work pretty fast unless you dipped the board in a resin to add a layer of protection.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Looks good. It came out very well for a free hand inlay. I seriously doubt your inlay grooving compromised the integrity of the plywood. Those that commented on how it would, might cite sources for that assessment.









 







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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

Tennessee Tim said:


> How's the milling going????
> Tim


Quite well! I live in the city and my mill is actually at our farm 4 hours away.. So I can't play with it every week.. but when I do!  One of our farmer friends dropped off a couple large burr oak logs, which was a nice little treat  Overall... LOVING IT!



johnnie52 said:


> My only concern is how it will stand up if you are one of those extreme skaters who like to slide the board on rails or the top edge of a pit. Seems to me that would ruin all your work pretty fast unless you dipped the board in a resin to add a layer of protection.


To answer your concern and everyone else's.. I am not at all a "Intense" long boarder, hitting ramps, grinding, hard down-hill speed, power sliding.. etc. I just casually board down streets and paths  So I don't put much stress on my board.. If I ever did get into grinding and what not, I would buy another deck that I don't care to scrape up.

I've boarded a decent amount today and have felt no difference in the fragility of the board. 

Thank you again for your input and compliments!


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## Ostie (Dec 19, 2010)

It looks great Levi. Your work is always first-rate. I'm older than you, but I am far from being the woodworker that you are. I admire your talents. Keep it up.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

hands made for wood said:


> I've boarded a decent amount today and have felt no difference in the fragility of the board.


I wasn't so much worried about the board's strength as the sliding action destroying the beautiful inlay. Those skate boards are made pretty tough and I don't think a shallow section cut out would hurt it especially as you refilled the cut out with new wood.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

aardvark said:


> I'm afraid it will attack the structural integrity.





woodnthings said:


> The outer skin of the bottom would be in tension, the top would be in compression, so depending, it may not matter. Probably a lot will depend on the glue's properties and the fit of the inlay. It's a kool idea, regardless. :thumbsup:





aardvark said:


> Oh, I love it as well, and longboards don't get the abuse of the performance short models.
> I don't think cutting the fibers of a plywood layer or two will hold together with any glues i know. The fiber structure and wood direction are compromised.
> 
> Tension on the bottom is critical.


What is the source of this information?









 







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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

I'll take a stab at this in my best "*******, hillbilly" terms.

Plywood is made up in layers (that part most everyone knows), each layer (in most cases) are turned 90 deg. to each other to give the strength and stability to this product. For "MAXIMUM" strength the outer layer is turned 90 degree to what it's spanding. In this case the routing of the inlay on the bottom side greatly reduces the structual strength the "board" was designed for.....I AM NOT SAYING it's too weak to take a stroll down a smooth road BUT I wouldn't put it through the "tests".

That's as plain and basic I know:blink::laughing::smile:. The structural strength was altered.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous Day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim

P.S. I'm sure the plywood and skateboard associations would have "better" terms.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

Nice inlay work, Levi!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tennessee Tim said:


> I'll take a stab at this in my best "*******, hillbilly" terms.
> 
> Plywood is made up in layers (that part most everyone knows), each layer (in most cases) are turned 90 deg. to each other to give the strength and stability to this product. For "MAXIMUM" strength the outer layer is turned 90 degree to what it's spanding. In this case the routing of the inlay on the bottom side greatly reduces the structual strength the "board" was designed for.....I AM NOT SAYING it's too weak to take a stroll down a smooth road BUT I wouldn't put it through the "tests".
> 
> ...


I was asking what is the source for that assessment? Is it just an opinion or is there some physical data to back that up?









 







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## Foresta Design (Dec 26, 2011)

Levi, this is awesome work. There is a bright side if on the off chance the board is compromised by the routing. You would then have a template to make one out of solid wood. A nice hard dense wood, then no chance of an integrity issue from a 1/16 cut. Looks great man keep trying new things.


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## buggyman1 (Nov 16, 2011)

Nice job on the board, freehand routing takes some talent. I bet you couldn't break the board if you tried, i'd be more worried about scuffing it up.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> I was asking what is the source for that assessment? Is it just an opinion or is there some physical data to back that up?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Both opinion and the plywood associations normal reccomendation...... BUT for clarification....I WOULD ride the board BUT not in a competitive way AND I think that is what I understand he is going to do for it's very nicely done and should be shown off.

As for the inlay and the making of this board.....I don't know their specs on the lay of the fibers NOR as a fact that he even penetrated the layer to be unsafe from the pics. I just stated facts on how the average plied things are put together and what causes their failure.

Hands made for wood....You done a GREAT Job....I hope I can inlay as well as you done your first here. I'm glad your getting to cut some. Can't wait to see more of your lumber.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

Again I appreciate all the input!

The deck is laminated maple with every veneer's grain running the length of the board. Where as plywood is 90 each ply. With that, it acts as one piece of wood. I just long boarded for a couple hours yesterday, even riding a wall a couple times, with no difference or concern in the strength of the board 

I do agree with not grinding and what not.. Having put 7 hours into the the deck already I'll be watching that I'm not scuffing it up! :yes:

Thanks again guys!


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## Fudwrecker (Jan 27, 2011)

Wow Dude I'm stoked

ha only skateboard lingo I know!

looks great - so did you just use transfer paper for both pieces or did you do the letters then trace around them and route inside of that line?
regular sized router with a 1/8" straight bit?
looks to me like it fits close to perfectly
very nice - better not show too many dudes - you may end up with orders!!


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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

Fudwrecker said:


> Wow Dude I'm stoked
> 
> ha only skateboard lingo I know!
> 
> ...


That's more than I know.. lol. The photo of the paper sketch was just what I had done up as a draft.. I tried using transfer paper, but wasn't getting good results. I ended up just trying to free-hand it on the walnut stock. I then used "glue tape" on the backside of the inlay to stick where I wanted it on my deck. After that I used an X-acto knife and marked around the inlay. Then peeled off the inlay and used my 2-1/2 horse dewalt router with a 1/8 plunge straight bit, and routed next to the knife markings..

I already have about 5 friends wanting boards.... haha

Thanks again everyone!


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## liquid6 (Feb 15, 2011)

Love the transformation. 

When I transfer images, I sketch it out. Then flip the paper over and trace over the outline of the sketch with a nice soft graphite (H, F, or HB) pencil. Place the wrong reading side of the paper down on the wood, then trace over the outline of the sketch with a hard pencil. Then trace that with a sharpie.

You can also use a charcoal pencil for the transfer, but be careful as it can smear really easily.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

C-man,

In my humble opinion the structural integrity of the board has been compromised. To what degree is not within my expertise to comment. You would have to consult a wood components structural engineer for accurate assessment of the modifications. But as Levi stated, it still seems strong enough. I think most engineering is based on a failure of at least 150% of the design load and probably for a rider of a maximum weight far greater than Levi's. That being said, if Levi is planning to use this board in a stressful situation where board failure could mean eminent physical harm, I'd use a different board.

I used to do a bit of bicycle racing and sometimes the downhill speeds could reach 60 MPH. I would never consider doing anything to my bicycle that would compromise it's strength. Hitting the pavement at that speed in bike shorts doesn't sound fun.

Bret


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Levi,

I once had a job making wooden water skis. We made some very attractive wood inlay top layers for these skis. Have you considered adding an entire pre-inlaid layer instead of routing into the existing board? That might retain the full structural integrity and give the same look.?

Oh, nice job on the inlay, that is hard to do.

Bret


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Lola Ranch said:


> C-man,
> 
> In my humble opinion the structural integrity of the board has been compromised. To what degree is not within my expertise to comment. You would have to consult a wood components structural engineer for accurate assessment of the modifications.
> Bret


It seems likely that all things considered that there might be some compromise. Like you said though, to what degree. Since the inlay fit so nicely and was glued in place, the edges could have made glue contact with its mating edges, with at least preserving the overall thickness of the board. Inlays I have done received adequate glue to create a bond with its mating edges. It's an interesting concept that I can't remember ever being discussed to this degree of specificity.

My asking for sources for making that assessment was to replies that sounded like there was some factual data that proffered the statements. If there was data to that effect, it makes sense to post it for the general knowledge base of this forum. Along those lines there may be facts to indemnify the compromise of plywood due to dadoes, or mortises, since the plies are perforated. 









 







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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

I like Lola's suggestion...ad a full layer....NO COMPROMISE.

Cabinetman....Find a board that you would feel safe to stand on that would span from point A to point B. 
Now cut that board in half and glue the cut back together (butt joint)..... is it as strong as it was whole???......NO....would you now stand on it in confidence just butt glued???....I doubt it. Now we didn't have to have an documented data to prove that a layer cut and butt glued is a compromise. As with inlays and veneers , there are multible layers (with plywoods) to keep integrity together but technically it has compromised that layer and the designed strength. Depending on the # of layers and thicknesses would effect the %'s of change. 
That's the simpliest way to explain without pulling out the engineering books...but I don't have a lawyers degree to read them either:blink::laughing::laughing::no::huh:. 

I won't steal anymore of Levi's thread.....Levi you done good :thumbsup:and it looks GREAT:thumbsup::thumbsup:. I hope you get many years of enjoyment from the inlay. Take Lola's advice on the next one and add it as an whole additional layer.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## Fsucraigk (Nov 4, 2011)

Levi,

Looks really good. In order to settle the current debate on structural integrity, just make a promise to not super-size at McDonalds and the board will hold up just fine.


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## hands made for wood (Nov 2, 2007)

Fsucraigk said:


> Levi,
> 
> Looks really good. In order to settle the current debate on structural integrity, just make a promise to not super-size at McDonalds and the board will hold up just fine.


lol. What a very wise summery.  

Again in reply to the structural debate. I have to agree with what Bret said. There has been a percentage of strength lost. Depending on the number of plys, which I have yet to count. I believe it's around 7-9 ply. Taking those numbers I would say the strength of the board has been reduced anywhere from 10-20% Seeing as how I didn't rout through an entire veneer. What goes in my favor, is my board is made of solid maple. Where as many boards are actually made of bamboo, which would have a lot less strength in the wood then, for instance, maple. 

Another point that makes me quite unconcerned about the strength of my deck, is I only weigh in at 160 lbs. These boards are made for guys well over that weight. I also am more of a casual boarder, then trying to hit up every half pipe I see.. :laughing:

It has been quite interesting hearing from you guys with different perspectives on this. This is why we have this forum, to challenge, encourage, and grow together in our skill in the area of woodworking. 

I'm by no means skilled in woodworking yet.. but I hope to master the craft one day. 

Levi


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

hands made for wood said:


> I'm by no means skilled in woodworking yet.. but I hope to... blah blah blah...
> 
> Levi


 Now that's just an outright lie! I call shenanigans! :thumbsup:


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