# Lipped edge cabinet doors



## RickM1 (Jan 16, 2010)

Working on a project for my son and DIL which is a fireplace surround with base cabinets and bookcases above. The base cabinets will have 2 doors in each cab. I want to make raised panel doors with a lipped edge 3/8" by 3/8". Looking at router bits on the net, I see bits made for this including a rounded over front which is what I want. My question is concerning the rabbet these bits create. The rabbet is beveled about 10 degrees. Is this necessary? Can't I just use a regular rabbet bit that cuts a square rabbet and then round over the front edge. Are typical 3/8" inset hinges bent to this 10 degree bevel? Doesn't look like it to me. I don't want to buy another router bit if I can do it with bits I already have on hand.
Rick


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

RickM1 said:


> My question is concerning the rabbet these bits create. The rabbet is beveled about 10 degrees. Is this necessary? Can't I just use a regular rabbet bit that cuts a square rabbet and then round over the front edge. Are typical 3/8" inset hinges bent to this 10 degree bevel? Doesn't look like it to me. I don't want to buy another router bit if I can do it with bits I already have on hand.
> Rick



When I do those, I use a regular 3/8" rabbeting bit, and a round over bit for the profile. The stepped hinges for the rabbet don't seem to be set at any specific angle, and when mounted they lay fitted in the rabbet.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

You can use a standard straight rabbet for this, BUT, you need to make sure that you have enough clearance for the edge to clear the face frame when closing the door. I seldom do this type of door, so I never bought a beveled bit. I use a straight bit. Then I take my block plane and plane a slight bevel to the edge with just a few strokes, nothing much. Then I use a sanding block to sand these and that gives a bit more bevel to it. Sounds like a lot of work, but it's not. We're talking about maybe 2 minutes per door, tops.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

partial overlay (or partial inset) doors do not need any bevel on the rabbit, esp if you allow 1/8" marging all around. i do it on table saw, fence set at 3/8" total cut (incl kerf) and pass door through twice.


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## RickM1 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks to all who replied. I just couldn't see buying a bit that I might use only one time when as you say, I can use a block plane and add a bevel. Thanks again.
Rick


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## AndersonsWoodworks (Jan 7, 2010)

The bevel on the bit is just to give additional clearance for the partial inset door to the stiles and rails. Plus it sometimes gives a cleaner profile because it is all cut with one bit. However, it is not necessary. As MMWood said, make sure you have enough clearance all the way around and use a plane rabbet or table saw to cut the rabbet. Be sure and allow additional clearance for the hinge wrap in the width of the door.


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