# Complete newbie



## Sdenby (Nov 6, 2011)

Was hoping someone would be kind enough to outline the very basics that need to be done in order to cut a tree and use it inside a cabin for a beam. I've read a bit online (googled) and in this forum to know that the tree has to be debarked, using a spud tool(?) and then ledt to dry for 1 or even 2? years. I assume it should not be left on the ground, but propped up for ventilation? The tree(s) we are planning to cut are red and white pine. Probably 50-60 ft tall. Do the ends need to be treated? I read someone's post about a gauge to measure moisure content. What is an appropriate moisture content before using the log to build? What else do we need to think about?


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

I received a lot of help here in figuring out where to get a moisture tester, as well as some other info.
And it has been MUCH appreciated. 
I can't speak for the wood beam moisture content, but would assume it should be like most interior woods @ ~10% or close.
Lowes had a 2 prong checker for sale for $29.oo. It works well, or (my opinion now) well enough to check rough stuff. Fine joinery furniture might be another story.
I also learned the testing needs to be done on a fresh sawcut to get internal readings. That then becomes iffy, since one area of a log will differ from the next and you can't be a cutting all over the place to get multiple readings.

Now I'll stand corrected, since I'm not a log builder, and defer to those who do so.

Welcome to the site.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I went Canada to a log home building school and the logs we used were white pine and from what I've been told red pine as it dries tend to twist. So I wouldn't use red pine. When we built the cabin we built it green , that was his method ,shrink fit Scandinavian full scribe. If your using as a beam is it horizontal or vertical ? So depending on your application I would make sure you compensate for shrinkage, if it's vertical you'll need to use a jack for adjusting. Hope this helps and good luck.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Sdenby said:


> Was hoping someone would be kind enough to outline the very basics that need to be done in order to cut a tree and use it inside a cabin for a beam. I've read a bit online (googled) and in this forum to know that the tree has to be debarked, using a spud tool(?) and then ledt to dry for 1 or even 2? years. I assume it should not be left on the ground, but propped up for ventilation? The tree(s) we are planning to cut are red and white pine. Probably 50-60 ft tall. Do the ends need to be treated? I read someone's post about a gauge to measure moisture content. What is an appropriate moisture content before using the log to build? What else do we need to think about?


Debarked yes. Whatever method that gets it off. Never worked with red pine but white pine is stable. White pine is one of the better species to timber frame with. Building with certain species green is perfectly acceptable if you understand how to build with green timber. 

It sounds like to me you'll be building using post & beam construction rather than timber framing since you yourself are admittedly green at this, and post & beam is even better suited for building with green timbers. And even if you don't get started for a year or two, if the timbers have any size to them they'll still be green don't worry.

You don't need a moisture meter for this. It won't give you any useful information. I've cut open walnut that were bone dry on the outside with the sap all gone, but within a few inches they were wet as the day they were felled. If you want to buy one so you can whack a couple feet of the end of the log in a year or two to see what the center is go ahead, but the info won't help you in any way. You're going to build with green timber whether it is next month or 3 years from now unless they are small trees. 

Yes seal the ends with log sealer. Keep them at least 18" off the ground. Treat the logs and the ground all around where the logs are with insecticide twice a year. Store them out of the sun and keep the rain off them. Don't stack them in a pile together they will start to rot where they touch if stored that way too long. Use weighted tin over them not tarps. Make sure they have sufficient airflow but not too much. None at all and mold/mildew will attack. Going to anyway probably unless you get them debarked pronto and use them before temps start to get too high again in spring. 



Sdenby said:


> ...What else do we need to think about?


You might think about hiring a mobile sawyer to come mill the slabs off (unless the beam needs to be left that long) and leaving plenty of wane at the four corners to keep the rustic look. This would save you a ton of work, all but eliminate your chance of mold & fungal attacks, and give you some flitches to use elsewhere if the trees are big enough. If your hearts are set on a log beam/s you can do that too, but it's a lot more work in the front end. 






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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I don't think he's building a cabin I think he just wants a log beam for the cabin doesn't sound like he doing any timber framing either I dunno. Stay tuned


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Dominick said:


> I don't think he's building a cabin I think he just wants a log beam for the cabin doesn't sound like he doing any timber framing either I dunno. Stay tuned


I have a tendency to give more information than is necessary sometimes, but what it is, is just me 'thinking out loud with my fingers'. :icon_rolleyes:

At least maybe I covered something pertinent that way. :icon_cool:






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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Well I think you know alot about this subject and you just want to make sure people can understand and cover every aspect of log and timber framing. I'm not that good with computers so I try it to type in so much cause I'm slow.


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## HomeBody (Nov 24, 2010)

TexasTimbers said:


> I have a tendency to give more information than is necessary sometimes, but what it is, is just me 'thinking out loud with my fingers'. :icon_rolleyes: .


My wife says of me..."Don't get him started, he'll tell you everything he knows." I can relate TT.:laughing: Gary


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## Sdenby (Nov 6, 2011)

*thanks!*

Thanks for all the help, guys. We were planning to use one long log horizontally for a beam for a loft. Then also using some vertical for support beams. Don't know yet if we want to leave it as a round log-look, or take slabs off. There is definitely at least 1 big white pine on the property that has to go, so that's good news if white is the better for building. The others may be red, don't really know right now. We're thinking of starting to map out the size of the building next summer.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Ok well whatever you do good luck and if you need more info or have more questions you know where to go. Take it easy.


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