# Vintage Craftsman TableSaw



## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

I have an old 113.29960 that my Dad gave me several years ago. I've used it plenty, but am now at the point that I would either (A) like to get something bigger, faster, better or (B) put a few bucks into this thing if it's worth doing so. My Dad even tells me that it's a POS, so it may not be worth (B), but I figured I'd ask before resorting to (A). As you can see, it's kinda beat and not too pretty.

It needs a blade insert (I'm embarrassed to even show how tore up the existing one is). Personally, I find it underpowered when Ripping std KD 2X stock, so that is a concern (it has the stock 1HP, 14-amp motor on it though). I have a nice 10" Freud Diablo blade, but put on a smaller crappy skil-saw blade to do the ripping as the smaller blade seems to do a better job when ripping.

I would like to be able to rip at least 24" with it, which I obviously cannot at this point.

The caster-base I made is kinda hoaky, but it lets it be mobile, though the casters don't provide a solid enough base for my liking when locked (it doesn't take too much to push the saw around even with the locked casters).

So, given what I've got, is it worth putting any money in at all, or should I do some more looking (which I've already started looking on CL for replacements)?


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

Time to let it go man. That poor thing has done its duty so you can sell it on CL and let someone else restore it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I don't know how your budget is backed, but if the saw works OK, it's worth keeping and using. If you're on the hunt for bigger and better, at least then your saw would be in a more marketable state.












 







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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*it all depends*

At best you might get $150.00 for this one, probably more like $100.00 from what I have seen. If you were so inclined and wanted to spend about 3 hours cleaning and taking it all apart, you will get more for it. At that point you might say the old girl ain't so bad and keep it.  The stand is the biggest eyesore. Some 80 grit and a ROS would make a big difference. Then a coat of paint. You can move the fence bar over as far as possible and you probably can get your 24" rip capacity. Those stamped table extensions are relatively cheap and you may find a used one. I have 2 sitting in my garage.
Now as to ripping capability, unless you are using a 40 TPI or less, more like a 24 TPI blade you ripping ability will suffer. That is probably you problem. A 1 HP motor will work OK for all but a 2" rip in hardwood with the correct blade. I like the Freud Diablo 1040 from Home Depot at $30.00. It's a great all around blade. They also will have the 24 TPI for about $35.00. Those 2 blades would be under your $100.00 budget...and will work on any new saw you get in the future. So it all depends on what you want to do.... bill


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback folks. Looking on CL again this morning and came across this one that looks like it might be a nice step up. Looking for any comments you might have. I've seen a few of these and my question is how are they claiming 3 HP?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/2341690118.html

Just called him and it is 6-7 yrs old, says it has maybe 1/2 hour on it. Model number is: 137.248830


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*hmmmm*

The saw in the ad has an aluminum table and a universal motor,
with brushes. That's how they "claim" 3 HP. Really not so. It is a job site saw, and the guys wants to take another job site saw in trade??? It is not a "step up" from your saw in my opinion.
Stay with cast iron. The stamped steel extensions are not the most favorite as many prefer the grid type cast iron. I've had both types and find stuff gets caught in the grids and sometimes falls through. OK, it's not top of the line, but very workable for a modest shop. You could use that steel one on the left side and then make a laminated extension table for the right side, even make a router table out of it. I've seen it done by many folks here.
Also a plywood base on casters wide enough to support the new extension and store tons of extra stuff. Ditch the stamped steel base or restore it. Just some free advice based on my experience.  bill


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## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

I had a similar Craftsman tablesaw that also said 3 horsepower on the cabinet. Turned out that was PEAK NO LOAD horsepower. The actual working horsepower was closer to 1 1/2 horsepower. I had a lot of problems with it. ( bought it used) The trunnions were screwed up somehow and it was very hard to tilt the blade for a bevel cut. A lot of sanding and polishing with a dremel made it a little better but it always was hard to tilt. Also. the fence on it was a POS. Sold it and bought a Jet hybrid. Much better saw but still not a great fence. I finally replaced it with an Incra TS-LS fence and what a difference!


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Alignment and blade selection will go along way toward determining the end performance of any saw. That 14 amp motor is pretty equivalent to many motors that claim 1.5hp these days. 

The guts of that saw are essentially the same as the modern Emerson Ridgid contractor saws. Some TLC, paint on the base, a new Delta T2 fence, and possibly some wing extensions could have that saw looking and performing pretty nicely for ~ $150-$170. You could always add more motor power if necessary, but at that point, a new saw might be more practical.


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## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

knotscott said:


> Alignment and blade selection will go along way toward determining the end performance of any saw. That 14 amp motor is pretty equivalent to many motors that claim 1.5hp these days.
> 
> The guts of that saw are essentially the same as the modern Emerson Ridgid contractor saws. Some TLC, paint on the base, a new Delta T2 fence, and possibly some wing extensions could have that saw looking and performing pretty nicely for ~ $150-$170. You could always add more motor power if necessary, but at that point, a new saw might be more practical.


 
I should have mentioned the Craftsman saw I had was made by Emerson and was exactly the same as A Ridgid model so parts were interchangable.


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## ChiknNutz (Apr 22, 2011)

I guess I'm so used to this old turd that just about anything newer seems like the bee's knees. Went to Home Depot and checked out the Ridgid R4512 and ooh is that nice compared to my current TS! I know it's no Unisaw but SO much nicer than mine.

A fence that actually seems to stay parallel to the blade, a nice sturdy stand that keeps the saw from moving when you don't want it to, 30" rip capacity, pretty decent miter gauge, etc. These may seem like typical features of any decent TS, but these are currently wish-list items for me ;-)

Not a bad price at $529, though I saw some comments about the Tool City 35990C being a really nice piece for not a whole lot more (but those are about another $100+).

Just not sure if I want to try and renovate mine or what. Thanks again.


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## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

ChiknNutz said:


> I guess I'm so used to this old turd that just about anything newer seems like the bee's knees. Went to Home Depot and checked out the Ridgid R4512 and ooh is that nice compared to my current TS! I know it's no Unisaw but SO much nicer than mine.
> 
> A fence that actually seems to stay parallel to the blade, a nice sturdy stand that keeps the saw from moving when you don't want it to, 30" rip capacity, pretty decent miter gauge, etc. These may seem like typical features of any decent TS, but these are currently wish-list items for me ;-)
> 
> ...


 
IMHO if you can afford a better saw, go for it. Upgrades to a POS saw will only make it a more expensive POS that you still may not be happy with.. I finally sold my Craftsman saw after working on the trunnions for over a week and only got slight improvement there and after all that the fence was still a POS and the bevel adjustment still didn't work as smoothly as it should have. I bought a Jet hybrid and not only is the dust collection better (even with modifications the old saw still spewed sawdust everywhere) but the saw is much smoother. I still didn't care for the fence on the Jet and have upgraded that but now I have a saw I have confidence in and works smoothly and quietly.


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## danyankee425 (Apr 10, 2011)

113.22401 wow if thats vintage then this one i got must be antique. it's and old craftsman i got for free when i bought my radial arm saw. guy said i could have it but it dosen't work,needs a motor. got it to the shop and did some inspecting and found the motor turns free. found the reset button and pushed in then i plugged it in and it ran fine no abnormal noise or vibrations, cuts 3/4 ply wood and birch 5/8. i don't do wood work for a liveing yet so not in the know about alot of modern fancy stuff, mostly i'm a diy guybut not afraid to ask questions.


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

ChiknNutz said:


> I guess I'm so used to this old turd that just about anything newer seems like the bee's knees. Went to Home Depot and checked out the Ridgid R4512 and ooh is that nice compared to my current TS! I know it's no Unisaw but SO much nicer than mine.
> 
> A fence that actually seems to stay parallel to the blade, a nice sturdy stand that keeps the saw from moving when you don't want it to, 30" rip capacity, pretty decent miter gauge, etc. These may seem like typical features of any decent TS, but these are currently wish-list items for me ;-)
> 
> ...


Chris, that same exact saw (except it will be wearing red and gray) will be available at Sears during their next Friends and Family event where prices drop dramatically. The Craftsman version of that saw was recently on sale for $470 (price I got mine and put on layaway). 

Go to Sears web site or, better yet, to the nearest store and sign up for their Sears Your Way Rewards (SYWR) program and they will give you 1% (or more back in spendable cash! I used what I earned and bought some Boeshield to protect it and the band saw I bought in March.

Mac


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> The saw in the ad has an aluminum table and a universal motor,
> with brushes. That's how they "claim" 3 HP. Really not so. It is a job site saw, and the guys wants to take another job site saw in trade??? It is not a "step up" from your saw in my opinion.
> Stay with cast iron. The stamped steel extensions are not the most favorite as many prefer the grid type cast iron. I've had both types and find stuff gets caught in the grids and sometimes falls through. OK, it's not top of the line, but very workable for a modest shop. You could use that steel one on the left side and then make a laminated extension table for the right side, even make a router table out of it. I've seen it done by many folks here.
> Also a plywood base on casters wide enough to support the new extension and store tons of extra stuff. Ditch the stamped steel base or restore it. Just some free advice based on my experience.  bill


Bill is wise! To move from an old heavy saw to one of those job saws would only make you mad!


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## notlad (Mar 25, 2017)

need sears tablesaw motor 621 24, 623 17, or 624 59 [email protected]


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