# Tool for working drywall



## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

I know, not wood - but my latest project involves insetting a rather complex design INTO the wall, which means cutting the drywall in it's outline. The outline won't have any straight lines - it's all curved.

Ordinarily drywall is cut rather quickly with a knife - but that's only when it's not mounted. Once it's mounted and painted using a knife is practically useless. So I'm looking for other options as to how I can cut or carve a detailed design into the drywall so that I can mount my project.

The obvious choice is jab saw, but the one that I have is a brutal tool with 1/4" teeth on it that would be more effective as a weapon of war than making detailed cuts. I was thinking coping saw - but wasn't sure if the blade would wear out too quickly. Honestly I don't have any idea if drywall will dull a saw at all - I've never tried it. I do have a Rotozip - but would prefer a hand tool if possible, I find hand tools offer much finer control over the cut. Maybe a Dozuki type saw?

I don't really know here - what do you all think?


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Pictures of what your trying to put into the wall along with info like trim etc would help. If you get a cut started these hack saws with just the straight handle might due.


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

This is a tool I use a lot. It has a sharp knife-tip so you simply punch it into the drywall and then start sawing.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

klr650 said:


> I know, not wood - but my latest project involves insetting a rather complex design INTO the wall, which means cutting the drywall in it's outline. The outline won't have any straight lines - it's all curved.
> 
> Ordinarily drywall is cut rather quickly with a knife - but that's only when it's not mounted. Once it's mounted and painted using a knife is practically useless. So I'm looking for other options as to how I can cut or carve a detailed design into the drywall so that I can mount my project.
> 
> ...


Roto zip


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

MastersHand said:


> Roto zip


Roto zips were originally designed just for this type of job


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I think that klr650's problem is that he is going to need a very clean edge. I am not sure about the roto zip, but I do not think even the hacksaw will provide a clean edge.

However, if his inlay is going to overlap the drywall even a small amount then any of the above should work.

George


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

If you need a clean edge. then a razor knife is the way to go.
Slow going, but will give good results.
Keep a stone on hand and sharpen often.
You could possibly score midway and sneak up on it with a zipper or other tool.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*This?*

How about a variable speed saber saw? The Roto Zip makes more dust that should be allowed, but a saber saw with a fine tooth blade would leave a smooth cut and not make too much dust.  bill
I have an older Craftsman SS that you can rotate the blade for getting into tight corners etc.


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

Well I might opt for a jigsaw rather than a sabre saw - correct me if I'm wrong but a sabre saw is just another name for Sawsall. I'm no artisan with a Sawsall, I can about cut my arm off, however I can do a pretty good job with a jigsaw, and I can control the depth better.

I agree with the last poster that rotozips make WAY too much dust, it is actually why I opt for a hand tool - far less dust, and drywall makes a LOT of dust. Shame, because they are an excellent tool for cutting drywall.

I like GeorgeCs idea of using a hacksaw, I have one of those with the blade sticking out beyond the frame and it would allow me to work near sensitive areas, where a power tool could nick something important (like a gas line or electrical cable).

So it sounds like I have a plan. Punch saw to start the cut, jigsaw to make the bulk cuts, hacksaw to finish the cuts.


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

*Correction*



klr650 said:


> I like GeorgeCs idea of using a hacksaw


 - correction, make that rrbrown.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

klr650 said:


> - correction, make that rrbrown.


Thanks, I originally thought jig saw as Bill said but edited it out because you didn't want to use power tools. I will say though if you use a metal cutting blade on slow you could probably get a much more detailed cut if needed with a jig saw because the blade is thinner.

I still want pictures. :laughing:


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

We'll have to see about pictures. this is a pretty radical project for me. I haven't even cut the wood yet, as the shape depends on what I can do with the drywall and vice-versa. If i can get it working and it isn't a total embarrassment, I'll definitely post up. 

Assuming my back calms down a bit, I'll start the first piece this weekend and try mounting it.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

klr650 said:


> We'll have to see about pictures. this is a pretty radical project for me. I haven't even cut the wood yet, as the shape depends on what I can do with the drywall and vice-versa. If i can get it working and it isn't a total embarrassment, I'll definitely post up.
> 
> Assuming my back calms down a bit, I'll start the first piece this weekend and try mounting it.


Ooh, back issues?


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## 240sxguy (Sep 13, 2010)

I am almost sure I have seen jigsaw blades that cut when they push away from the saw instead of when pulling twoards you. I wonder if this would help keep from tattering the face of the drywall. I just checked amazon, they are usually used for laminate it said.


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## Fishbucket (Aug 18, 2010)

I'd go rotozip too. :yes:


And with a name like klr650.. I'm sure we have crossed paths on a forum or three. :thumbsup:


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Bringing this threa back to something that is "Wood" useful... :thumbsup:

I've watched drywall installers use a PC laminate trimer to cut and trim dry wall. 

Draw your outline and then use the laminate trimmer with a small straight bit at just the right depth to trim the dry wall.

It's always best if you can get a new tool.


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## msmccuistion (Sep 18, 2010)

Along the same lines as rrich, maybe you could make a negative template of the piece and use a top bearing flush trim bit. As long as none of the curves are tighter than the diameter of your bit it should come out just about perfect.


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## schnitz (Sep 5, 2009)

One point that might be missing from this (that you likely already thought about...) is that no matter what you use to cut it, be sure there are no electrical wires behind that drywall. 110 volts tickles pretty good when you cut into a hot line. 

As far as the project goes, IMHO:

Razor knives = least dust of all the ideas presented. 100 blades are less than $3.00 at H. F. Really cheap if you need a tight/good fit.

Hacksaw = a lot of dust (less than a Roto-Zip), and any "curve" cutting will take some extra pre-planning.


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

Well I gave it a shot today, seems like working in the winter always goes slower than normal. Must be that cold weather making my Lazyboy and blanket look too attractive.

At any rate I found a few things that will need to be addressed first before I get too far into this. 1) I need a skinnyier bandsaw blade for cornering. I used to have two Timber Wolf blades for it, but ruined one cutting hardiplank (what a dumb mistake), so right now I only have a single ripping blade - that's a touch too wide for what I'd like. 2) I need a good dust mask. I'd forgotten how bad black walnut is on your sinuses.

Other than that, tracing the outline on the wall and using the jigsaw to cut the outline is working just fine.

I think at this point I have what I need. Is there any way to move this thread to the projects forum? Seems like it doesn't belong in hand tools any more.


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## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

I put in a post over in the Project Showcase in case anyone is interested. I opted for the Rotozip as others here suggested - it was like using a carving knife to perform surgery, but worked far better than anything else did.


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## smithdave (Dec 17, 2010)

*Milling cutters*

Capital tool industries produces Form Milling Tools for all types of applications based on customers specifications


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## Gary0855 (Aug 3, 2010)

Cut the line with a knife, cut 1" inside that line with a saw of your choice, make relief cuts as needed to the curves, tighter curves will need more cuts, snap 1" piece with your hand, cut paper on back of rock. You will be a "Rock Star", maybe in your own eyes, but a rock star none the less.

A Roto Zip will be fast, using a big bit will cut fast and diminish bit breakage. If it's in a finished house (lived in), I would use a rock saw. Dust control and Roto Zip should not be used in the same sentence.
Gary


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