# 10" craftsman table saw year?



## Engineer/sawjock (Oct 10, 2011)

I think I need to change the bearings on my craftsman table saw I inheritanted from my Papa. It looks like a 50-70's design, machined top out of a cast material, the fence tightens to a angle iron, and the arbor looks like it takes two bearings. The arbor is 0.60 inch OD, all the adjustments are on square threaded gears, and there is no aluminum anywhere.

That's everything i have to date it with. I need old catalogs and specs to go with them. Any suggestions?


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Look around the machine for serial and/or model numbers. If you could post a picture of the saw, maybe that would help, too.

Bill


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

A picture is worth a thousand words! :thumbsup: 

As Bill mentioned, a model # is helpful too.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Engineer/sawjock said:


> The arbor is 0.60 inch ID,


?? The arbor is hollow?
I would take the bearings out, and check the numbers on the bearings, and order them from a bearing supplier.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Engineer/sawjock said:


> The arbor is 0.60 inch ID, all the adjustments are on square threaded gears, and there is no aluminum anywhere.


OD is more likely 5/8"...should be a solid arbor. I could be wrong.












 







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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

One of the things that Sears did back then was to use non standard sizes of components. This way Sears could monopolize the replacement part market. (I discovered this the hard way on a lawn mower.)

I would press out the bearings and measure them with a micrometer. And try to order them from a bearing supply house. 

Also you could try to purchase the bearings from the Sears parts department. However Sears seems to have been clearing out their stock of old machine parts since they went to "The Blue Light Special" management. Good luck.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

There's also a good chance that you could remove the old bearings and get the numbers right off of them (might need a magnifying glass). Then go to a bearing distributor or even an auto parts store and match the numbers up or see what they cross reference to.

The arbor bearings of my table saw were the same as the motor bearings of my Craftsman air compressor. Both turned out to be standard automotive bearings used in power steering pumps, A/C compressors and the like.

Bill


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## Engineer/sawjock (Oct 10, 2011)

I found the model number: 113299040

I don't think it's as old as I did yesterday.

The arbor is not hollow.

I guess the question is, where do i get specs for the bearings, and what are my options there?


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## Engineer/sawjock (Oct 10, 2011)

*Mission completed...*

Bought a new arbor and two bearings. I guess that should make it better. Now I just need a more expensive blade. Does anyone care to share their opinion on the potential precision of this saw and how it stacks up to other saws?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Engineer/sawjock said:


> Bought a new arbor and two bearings. I guess that should make it better. Now I just need a more expensive blade. Does anyone care to share their opinion on the potential precision of this saw and how it stacks up to other saws?


The "113" prefix means it was made by Emerson in the USA. There were many variations of this saw made under the Craftsman label up until 1997, when they started making them under the Ridgid name (TS2412, TS2424, TS3612). From roughly 1997 to 2004 TTI/Ryobi built pretty much the same saw for Sears using a "315" prefix. Around 2004, Emerson contracted with TTI/Ryobi to make them for Ridgid also, and they introduced the new orange TS3650, TS3660. This one is probably from the 70s or 80s...

These saws share pretty much the same design, and many of the parts are interchangeable. The biggest differences tend to be the "bolt-ons" ...things like fence, wing material, legs, switches, guards, colors, cosmetics, but the basic guts (arbor carriage, trunnion brackets, motor mount) remain pretty much the same. With good alignment and good blade selection, these saws can be pretty darn good, and can give you years of service. The original Emerson fences were pretty lame, and are a good candidate for replacement with something like a Delta T2 ($150 from Tools-plus, or a used Alignarip aluminum fence. It should clean up nicely. I'd stick with a good 3/32" thin kerf blade for that saw...easier for the motor to spin.

Here's a link to some really decent German made Onsrud blades that are clearanced on Ebay for dirt cheap (free s/h too). They're auction style, but many sell uncontested for the listing price. Blades from Infinity, Freud Diablo, Freud Industrial, Ridgid Titanium, CMT Orange, CMT ITK Plus, DeWalt Precision Trim, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, and Tenryu are also very good to excellent. 

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress!


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Here's the site for Sears replacement parts for your saw: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/0744600?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=113299040

One of the exploded view drawings shows a date of Feb., 1976, so Scott was right when he said 70's - 80's.

Another upgrade you might consider for this saw is a link belt. they are smoother than a standard V-belt and from the picture, the belt on yours looks like it might be due for replacement.

Bill


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

The saw is decent. The fence is garbage. As mentioned, I would get a Delta T-2 fence for $150 +/- and a decent cogged belt, and you should be good to go.

In my opinion, replacing the fence on that saw is a safety concern!

Check and adjust the trunions, so the blade is parallel to the miter slots. Then align the fence parallel to the slots.
Onsrud has a decent 50 tooth combo blade on Ebay for $21. (thin kerf) I am using one on my saw and its a good blade.


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