# Kreg Rip-Cut



## TREYR (Feb 16, 2012)

Anyone tried this out? Think I'm going to order it and see how it works out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=FvGpnGXs4e8

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.315033825221605.71976.156853777706278&type=3

http://www.kregtool.com/RipCut-Prodview.html


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

I saw this a few weeks ago but didn't realize it was available now.

I'd be interested mostly for my field work but I'd bet it would come in handy for the shop as well.

If you buy one please review it for us after you've had a chance to use it.

Jeff


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I agree!*

+1 to the above Jeff. 
If it's under $100.00 it would be a good addition to a shop even with a table saw. It beats the factory supplied rip gauge all to pieces. The edge shoe is long enough to provide support and the rail is long enough to rip a sheet of ply down the center.
It gets my vote. :thumbsup: bill

BTW I have a Festool and guide rail system and this is way easier.


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## TREYR (Feb 16, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> +1 to the above Jeff.
> If it's under $100.00 it would be a good addition to a shop even with a table saw. It beats the factory supplied rip gauge all to pieces. The edge shoe is long enough to provide support and the rail is long enough to rip a sheet of ply down the center.
> It gets my vote. :thumbsup: bill
> 
> BTW I have a Festool and guide rail system and this is way easier.


It's only $35 and is now available at Lowes and other stores.


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## Woodworkingkid (Jan 8, 2011)

wow that looks realy neat. Not suprising that it is made by kreg because they always make great stuff. I think next time i am at lowes i am going to get one if there only 35$..


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

There's a similar product that I have, the Craftsman Accu Rip (link). The main difference seems to be which side is justified from and that the Kreg is ambidextrous whereas the AccurRip is not. Additionally the Kreg design looks like it might be slightly better with the longer foot. With mine the last few inches are more or less free hand.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Just looking at the device I'm a bit concerned about kick backs. All it would take is a splinter along the guide edge and the circular saw goes for an unwanted ride.

It just doesn't seem safe to me. I think that I would rather use one of those straight edge clamping thingies.


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## dat (Nov 11, 2010)

looks like the guide should go all the way across to help cut down on a chance of binding


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## TREYR (Feb 16, 2012)

Bought it today and plan on trying her out this weekend!


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## Boss O' The Shop (Mar 21, 2012)

I have a similar product called a Rip Master Circular Saw Guide. It was included as a freebie with a RAS I purchased, but I haven't used it yet. Seems like a good idea in theory, but I'll admit I'm a bit skeptical as to how well it will work and if it's a safe product.


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## TREYR (Feb 16, 2012)

Used the product today and it worked pretty well...only problem I had was getting the cut to stay straight for the last inch or so but that could be user error.


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## RichRiddle (Apr 23, 2012)

It looks interesting but has some fairly big limitations for one of my skill level (unskilled). The track saw version seems much better for most situations since one would really need a straight edge for this to work. Many of my projects start with smaller pieces of wood lacking a factory edge.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

TREYR said:


> Used the product today and it worked pretty well...only problem I had was getting the cut to stay straight for the last inch or so but that could be user error.


My comments address the issue of the shortness of the guide edge, and how far out you can set the saw. It seems it would be easy to wiggle. A straight edge that gets clamped down (like this) can be shop made for less than the cost of the jig.









 







.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

rrich said:


> Just looking at the device I'm a bit concerned about kick backs. All it would take is a splinter along the guide edge and the circular saw goes for an unwanted ride.
> 
> It just doesn't seem safe to me. I think that I would rather use one of those straight edge clamping thingies.


Agreed. It would be important to examine the guiding edge of the material to be cut before using this tool.

I haven't actually handled the tool but I'd bet that the leading edge of the guide is somewhat rounded to avoid catching.

If not, this might be an easy modification to improve safety.

I also agree that an 8' and 4' straight line jig are the best bet for safely breaking down sheet goods in the shop.

My interest in the Rip-Cut is primarily for field use. Because of the compact size it would be easy to transport in my 4-Runner.

Jeff


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

jharris said:


> I haven't actually handled the tool but I'd bet that the leading edge of the guide is somewhat rounded to avoid catching.
> 
> Jeff


Bought a Rip-Cut today and yes, the leading edges of the guide arm are rounded over.

After assembly, installation on the saw and calibration the cuts are dead on accurate and I feel completely comfortable using this product from a safety POV.

Provided that the user observes sensible safety practices required for CS use, manufacturer safety recommendations and provides solid support for material on both sides of the cut it it seems like a safe product.

After assembly I was concerned about its size for transport to and from the field.

I realized though that the guide arm/ guide rail assembly can be easily removed for transport and reinstalled on site without affecting calibration.

One thing I don't like is that once the sled is attached to the CS it cannot be removed and replaced without having to recalibrate. So for my purposes my Makita 7 1/4 CS is now dedicated to the Rip-Cut.

Because this product is not brand/model specific I don't think Kreg could have avoided the recalibration issue.

This review is based on limited test cuts.

Once I use this product more in the field and the shop I'll post again but at this point I don't anticipate any issues. 

Based on results so far and previous experience with Kreg products I give the Rip-Cut a thumbs up.

I hope this review has been helpful.

Regards, 

Jeff


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

Ready to use:









Ready for transport or shop storage:


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## splinter2 (Dec 5, 2009)

*Kreg Tools*

I bought 1 and have yet to use it, but sure glad I have it when I:thumbsup: do need, Kreg tools are the Best.


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## jharris (Jan 8, 2011)

I had to cut door casing in the field and instead of loading my TS and out feed supports I loaded my Rip-Cut, a couple of clamps and used the saw horses I already had on site.













I still had to load my benchtop jointer to smooth the cut but I would have had to do so even if I had used my TS.

Tmrw I'll be cutting OSB to sheath and deck an addition and I expect that the Rip-Cut will save me alot of time because I won't have to chalk the cut or guide the saw.

I have purchased many Kreg products and have yet to regret.

Jeff


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## Purrmaster (Jul 19, 2012)

I've tried something similar by clamping a piece of aluminum to the board to be ripped. The biggest problem I've run into is that I have problems getting a not so wide board to stay put. I don't have enough material to clamp the baord to a table and still leave room for the foot of the circular saw.

Not being able to rip properly with my circular saw is fast becoming my biggest tool problem.


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## GroovyMambo (Jun 10, 2012)

My best time saver this year has been my track saw. Lay track on the marks, run saw on track, done. No clamping, done in one minute.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

rrich said:


> Just looking at the device I'm a bit concerned about kick backs. All it would take is a splinter along the guide edge and the circular saw goes for an unwanted ride.
> 
> It just doesn't seem safe to me. I think that I would rather use one of those straight edge clamping thingies.


 +1 on the kickback concerns.


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