# pouring a epoxy top



## jmccallie (Aug 12, 2012)

Looking to pour a entire bar top (pine with a natural edge) and could use a few pointers. What is the best epoxy to get? And what is the best way to apply it? I have done a little research on the web, and have read of guys just tapping off the bottom of the bar top and pouring the top then feathering in over the natural edge with a brush. Is this the best method? Also is it better to do one thick coat of multiple thin coats? I have also read to use a torch to lightly go over the top to raise all the bubbles... And is it necessary to sand with a high grit? I guess for those who have done this what did you find to work and how. A step by step list would be very helpful!

Thanks


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## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

www.uscomposites.com sells the table top epoxy. This video show how the blow torch will remove the air bubbles to give you a totally clear surface and aid in leveling.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I can give you a short course. The work area should be absolutely clean, with no moving air. Don't clean, brush off, blow off, or sneeze in or near the work area. If the top has any cracks, knots or holes, they should be plugged/filled with epoxy prior to the pour. The top should be sitting level.

Have the top in an easy to work and move around area. Cover the floor with drop cloths. Visqueen (brand or other brands of clear plastic sheeting) the area completely.

*Mixing:*
When ready, do not stir either container per se, but rather use a stir stick and slowly pass the bottom of the can for any settling that may have occurred. Slowly mix equal parts so as not to create any bubbles.

*For tops that will have an edge with overflow from the top pour:*
Use a brush and coat the edges with the mix so when the top is poured it will have a clear run on the edges. Pour from the center of the top near the end and slowly work your way to the other end. For long tops, pour from the center to the outer ends. Allow the mix to run off the edges until you get coverage all the way around.

When the consistency gets to a gelled state, take a knife and cut off the excess from under the top.

*For tops with a captive edge:*
Depending on the height of the pour desired, you may want to do two pours. If you get ¼" to ⅜" minimum per pour that is fine. 

*Right after the pour:*
Use a propane torch passed over the top, keeping the flame off the epoxy. This will heat up the material so any bubbles will rise and dissipate. Using a heat gun or a hair dryer may cause a gelling or areas that kick too soon, due to the hot forced air. Block or belt sand the cured epoxy off the bottom and ease the sharp edge where it ran off, and it was cut off.

Here is a good site that covers most questions you may have. 









 







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## jmccallie (Aug 12, 2012)

Thanks guys!


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## ferriswheel (Jun 20, 2014)

Wow, this is what I was looking for. I just posted asking some of the same questions for an irregular mesquite slab I have gotten.


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> I can give you a short course. The work area should be absolutely clean, with no moving air. Don't clean, brush off, blow off, or sneeze in or near the work area. If the top has any cracks, knots or holes, they should be plugged/filled with epoxy prior to the pour. The top should be sitting level.
> 
> Have the top in an easy to work and move around area. Cover the floor with drop cloths. Visqueen (brand or other brands of clear plastic sheeting) the area completely.
> 
> ...


back in the 70's we used to pour cypress clock's by the 100's , lot's of fun we used to sand with 50 grit and brush off the live edge , and pour just like you mention above , i pour expoxy now and again, fun to do , the only thing i found that would clean the brush and get off expoxy was hand cleaner , i don't know about the orange type ? havent had to do that , used lot's of propane good old day's


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## del schisler (Nov 5, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> I can give you a short course. The work area should be absolutely clean, with no moving air. Don't clean, brush off, blow off, or sneeze in or near the work area. If the top has any cracks, knots or holes, they should be plugged/filled with epoxy prior to the pour. The top should be sitting level.
> 
> Have the top in an easy to work and move around area. Cover the floor with drop cloths. Visqueen (brand or other brands of clear plastic sheeting) the area completely.
> 
> ...


back in the 70's we used to pour cypress clock's by the 100's , lot's of fun we used to sand with 50 grit and brush off the live edge , and pour just like you mention above , i pour expoxy now and again, fun to do , the only thing i found that would clean the brush and get off expoxy was hand cleaner , i don't know about the orange type ? havent had to do that , used lot's of propane good old day's 
for the holes their was what they called black patch worked good but was black , didn't mind


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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

I first saw this in Bermuda where a pub had coins set in 'swimming pool' epoxy. Most impressive.
Best example ever seen was the bar in Airport hotel in Trinidad where what looked like driftwood set into epoxy and use for table tops. Could not keep my eyes off it. I now have similar finish on my dining room table over rose wood. Absolutely stunning.
johnep


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