# Jointing with thickness planer



## 6SpeedSD (Jan 21, 2011)

I have a Dewalt 734 thickness planer. Have a few rough sawn Red Oak planks that I want to make a table top out of. Problem is that I don't have a jointer, nor do I have access to one. Can I turn my planks up on edge and run them through the TP, or would I be flirting with disaster? I haven't used one much, so that may seem like a dumb question. Wanted to ask before I just went with it! Boards are roughly 1" thick and about 4" wide.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Build a sled with 3" tall slots to hold a 4" board upright, and let her rip.

Or if you have several screw them together on the ends and do them all at once. :smile:


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## 6SpeedSD (Jan 21, 2011)

Well I would have about 8-9 in total to do. Thought about that...just run 4 or so through together at the same time. Wasn't sure if I should or not, or if they'd need to be attached to one another.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Build a sled for your planer and flatten a face with the sled. Once the boards are flat, you'll have a reference face, and you can edge joint using a router or TS. :thumbsup:


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## rsetina (Nov 30, 2009)

Some suppliers will edge joint you boards for a small fee. I would check with your supplier first. It may save you some time and trouble.


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## 6SpeedSD (Jan 21, 2011)

My table saw is junk...won't cut these boards at all. Any hardwood over 3/4" just bogs the motor. If not for that, I would joint them on there(I have a sled built for that purpose alone). 

Could I take four boards and screw them together across the end grain? Then it would basically be like running a 4x4 post through there. Only thing is that they wouldn't be held together in the middle, which could cause an issue, now that I think about it.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

6SpeedSD said:


> My table saw is junk...won't cut these boards at all. Any hardwood over 3/4" just bogs the motor. If not for that, I would joint them on there(I have a sled built for that purpose alone).
> 
> Could I take four boards and screw them together across the end grain? Then it would basically be like running a 4x4 post through there. Only thing is that they wouldn't be held together in the middle, which could cause an issue, now that I think about it.


 
Make sure your outside boards are crowned in... then the screws will hold them fine. :smile:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

One problem with ganging the boards together is that there's no reference edge on either side. A planer makes the cut edge parallel to the edge that's against the planer table, so without a reference edge for the board, the planer will just duplicate the side that's facing down and they won't necessarily be 90° to the face, and will likely be inconsistent.

Do you have a hand plane?


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

6SpeedSD said:


> My table saw is junk...won't cut these boards at all. Any hardwood over 3/4" just bogs the motor. If not for that, I would joint them on there(I have a sled built for that purpose alone).
> 
> Could I take four boards and screw them together across the end grain? Then it would basically be like running a 4x4 post through there. Only thing is that they wouldn't be held together in the middle, which could cause an issue, now that I think about it.



How about a good (and sharp) rip blade for your saw?


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

knotscott said:


> One problem with ganging the boards together is that there's no reference edge on either side. A planer makes the cut edge parallel to the edge that's against the planer table, so a reference edge for the board, the planer will just duplicate the side that's facing down and they won't necessarily be 90° to the face, and will likely be inconsistent.
> 
> Do you have a hand plane?


This is the problem. Well stated.

If you have some way to guarantee that the boards are perfectly perpendicular to the planer blades than you would be OK. However, that is unlikely.

I would not do what you are thinking.

George


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

If you clamp them together, using a square to a known flat surface, then screw, you will be fine. 

I have ran 6/4 x 6 through my Foley on edge with no problems.
I am not recommending you do yours individually.

Ganged and perpendicular will give good results, although a jointer, offset router table fence, or TS would be the prefferd method. :smile:


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## mwhals (Apr 13, 2010)

Pirate said:


> How about a good (and sharp) rip blade for your saw?


+1 on the blade.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Pirate said:


> How about a good (and sharp) rip blade for your saw?


 
Unless it is a triple chip tooth design, a ripping blade will not provide a glue quality joint. :smile:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

mdntrdr said:


> Unless it is a triple chip tooth design, a ripping blade will not provide a glue quality joint. :smile:


Sorry, but I disagree, and want to get the facts straight on this point. The blade's contribution to the glue worthiness of the edge of a board is due mainly to the side geometry and grind, and is nearly independent of the top grind. Tooth count is also a factor, but it's a factor that's heavily influenced by the side geometry. You can get a glue ready edge from any number of 24-60 tooth blades that can range from flat top grinds, ATB, Hi-ATB, TCG, and likely others. The top grind has a big influence on tearout, which is most noticeable in sheet goods and crosscuts in hardwood. Technique, board flatness, saw alignment, throat insert, and other factors can also influence the glue readiness of a cut.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

knotscott said:


> Sorry, but I disagree, and want to get the facts straight on this point. The blade's contribution to the glue worthiness of the edge of a board is due mainly to the side geometry and grind, and is nearly independent of the top grind. Tooth count is also a factor, but it's a factor that's heavily influenced by the side geometry. You can get a glue ready edge from any number of 24-60 tooth blades that can range from flat top grinds, ATB, Hi-ATB, TCG, and likely others. The top grind has a big influence on tearout, which is most noticeable in sheet goods and crosscuts in hardwood. Technique, board flatness, saw alignment, throat insert, and other factors can also influence the glue readiness of a cut.


 
I stand corrected.

Wich 24 tooth blade do you recommend for glue ready rips?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

mdntrdr said:


> I stand corrected.
> 
> Wich 24 tooth blade do you recommend for glue ready rips?


The better 24T blades are generally capable if the other variables are good...Freud LM72, LU87, Infinity 010-024, 010-124, Ridge Carbide, CMT 201.024.10, 202.024.10, DeWalt DW7642, DW7124 are few examples...the Forrest and Amana 20T rippers might even get the job done. The better 30T, 40T, and 50T have an easier time with the polished edge part for glue readiness, but are less efficient in thicker ripping. :thumbsup:


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## 6SpeedSD (Jan 21, 2011)

I screwed 3 together, and ran them through. Came out darn near perfect. I clamped those 3 together, and the seam was barely noticeable. Just what I was looking for. 

As far as a new blade on the TS, I just put one on there. Didn't seem to help much. My say is junk...trust me it is. You can't get the blade aligned, there's no fence, motor is about worn out, etc etc. I'm due a new one, which will be my next big investment.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

It probably isn't his blade so much as it is alignment... Blade to fence...

just my two cents...

~tom


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## 6SpeedSD (Jan 21, 2011)

More like blade to table and miter slots. Saw has no fence.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

6SpeedSD said:


> More like blade to table and miter slots. Saw has no fence.


No fence? Ok... So do you use it?

~tom


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## 6SpeedSD (Jan 21, 2011)

Use what? The saw? Yes, I useit quite often. Well, that is when precision isn't absolutely required. I just clamp a piece of 1x4 oak to the top as my fence.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

6SpeedSD said:


> Use what? The saw? Yes, I useit quite often. Well, that is when precision isn't absolutely required. I just clamp a piece of 1x4 oak to the top as my fence.


Gotcha... You might consider adding a fence if it's in your budget... Even an under powered saw should be able to chew through 3/4 without too much trouble if your blade is sharp and fence are properly alligned...

A surface plane will not joint a board unless it's has really long infeed and outfeed tables... Otherwise you'll potentially end up with a curved board that's the same width along the curve...

If you don't have a jointer, a tuned TS with a sled will get you much closer to a good joint edge...

Just my opinion amongst many...

~tom


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## 6SpeedSD (Jan 21, 2011)

I thought about adding a fence, but instead I could use that $$ as a pretty good start to a new saw.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

6SpeedSD said:


> I thought about adding a fence, but instead I could use that $$ as a pretty good start to a new saw.


That's an even better idea... I'd say run with it!

~tom


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