# Bandsaw box drawers too loose?



## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I love bandsaw boxes just because precision is *not* required. But looking at the pics and videos of other bandsaw boxes, I'm wondering if somehow my drawers are ending up with much bigger gaps in them than is needed. I'm using a 1/4" blade, so it has the smallest kerf of all my blades.

















Is there some trick to making the drawers more snug? Or is it just that everyone else's bandsaw boxes are just that much more awesome. Is it normal for there to be that much gap at the top of the drawer? I just swear the other boxes I've seen look like they're sitting almost perfectly aligned in their holes..... Maybe I just have box envy. :icon_redface:


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## Yeorwned (Jan 9, 2010)

How much sanding are you doing?


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Not that much, especially along the edges. I'm working on some other boxes now, and they're just as loose as that, prior to any sanding.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Beezle,

You must be gluing the box back together along an exit kerf? Take some more material out of the kerf before gluing it back together. 

Or try setting the band saw table at 1 or 2 degrees of tilt so it will have a slight taper so if you slide the drawer in a little further it will tighten up. 

I don't have an example because I've given them all way but I build a different style of band saw box. I cut the top and bottom off then cut the drawer out of the middle part and flair the front of the drawer so it closes with no gap and then sand the height of the drawer slightly to provide clearance to the top and bottom with a very small gap.

Maybe I'll build one and post it, Bret


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Hmm...I have no idea if I'm gluing up an exit kerf or not...or for that matter, what an exit kerf is. :surrender:

Now, I freely admit I've been taking the easy way out of making these boxes, so I'm not surprised they require just a *tad* more thinking to have them come out nice.

Here are my basic steps (for making a bandsaw "drawer"):

1) Saw off the back of the box.
2) Saw out the middle portion where the drawer goes. I usually only cut into the middle from one spot.
3) Glue the box "shell" back together so it is one continuous piece again (maybe that's where the exit kerf is?)
4) Glue the back on the box.
5) Saw the front and back off the drawer.
6) Saw out the U shaped portion in the middle.
7) Glue the front and back onto the drawer.
8) Sand, finish, and then post on woodworkingtalk.com asking why it sucks so bad.

That's about it.

I'd love to see a sequence of how you do yours then. I understand the idea behind sawing at an angle so it fits better, but I don't understand ..... oooooo. I see. That's why you saw the front off as well as the back. Then you cut the drawer opening with the slight angle so that it doesn't show a gap. Interesting. I'd still love to see some photos of how you do all that.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Beelze,

I call this a "rock box". It's just roughed out and need to be detailed and sanded. But I'm into it less than an hour.

It has a nearly invisible drawer.

Make it from any old chunk of wood with a funky shape.

Cut off the bottom and top. Cut the drawer out of the middle section.

Set the drawer aside and glue the rest of the box back together. Fit a bottom into the drawer and sand it down slightly until it fits into the slot.

Bret


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## Adillo303 (Dec 20, 2010)

What a well timed thread. I just made my first bands box. My wife was asking about the clearances as well. I told her that saw kerf is what it is. Then I turned to Google. There are indeed thin band saw blades. 

Bret, that idea is really neat. Where do you get chunks of wood like that to start with?


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## RetiredLE (Jan 20, 2011)

Timing is right. Here is my first attempt using my jig saw. My gaps were a lot tighter initially due to the small kerf the jig saw is known for - but I edge sanded because I wanted a larger gap. To each his own I guess.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

Are you using a hook tooth or a skip tooth blade? The skip tooth has a less "aggressive" rake angle. It's not as steep and therefore makes it a better choice for these types of applications. Smoother cuts and easier to cut curves as well.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Where do you get chunks of wood like that to start with?[/QUOTE]

Answer:

Out of the cardboard box under my chop saw filled with funky blocks of wood that I collect.

You have to be on the lookout for them, you never know where you may find them. Fire wood piles are a good place to start.

Bret


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ok Bret...so, your kerf width is clear in the pic of the drawer, since it's in the back (which, btw, I didn't realize how obvious that is...make your entry cut in the BACK of the drawer!). But when your rock is re-assembled, theres nowhere near that kerf width around the drawer and cuts. So how did you compensate for that kerf width of missing material?

Also, I discovered last night, cuts through a slanted portion of wood are even worse because you're losing a lot more material and you have to try and match up "both" planes of wood.

And then finally...how do you make those cuts on a bandsaw when you don't have a flat surface on the bottom to keep contact with the bandsaw table? I was actually playing with some pieces of wood that were wedged shaped and what I ended up doing was drawing an outline on a piece of 2X4 and cutting that out, and then resting the workpiece in that 2X4.









But I have a feeling you have a smarter way, or don't even bother with it.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

beelzerob said:


> "Ok Bret...so, your kerf width is clear in the pic of the drawer, since it's in the back (which, btw, I didn't realize how obvious that is...make your entry cut in the BACK of the drawer!). But when your rock is re-assembled, theres nowhere near that kerf width around the drawer and cuts. So how did you compensate for that kerf width of missing material?"
> 
> Notice the flaired sides of the drawer on both sides. It closes the gap simply by pushing the drawer in a little further.
> 
> ...


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I think I've got the idea now...i'll have to sacrifice some more wood testing it out. 

I was sanding one of the pieces of firewood I had salvaged for this operation, and I noticed one of the flecks of sawdust was moving on its own. Turns out it was some tiny white bug. I then realized that maybe grabbing wood right off the wood pile and bringing it inside and cutting it apart maybe wasn't the *smartest* idea. Is there some easy want to make sure I kill anything inside these pieces of wood before I bring them in the shop?


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Beelzer,

You've really got me going now. I've started half a dozen "rock" boxes now and having fun. I'll post them when I can.

Thanks, Bret


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Beelzer,


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Hehe...ya, they are addicting. I've temporarily put a halt to mine until I figure out if I have a bug problem. I'm going to glue up some stacks of wood tonight, as we've got a lot of that.

If you could do a "play by play" of cuts that would be helpful. I think I understand what you were mentioning before, but I'm still not sure. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but the drawer is going to have a slight "wedge" shape to it then, right? It gets thinner as it goes further back?

What size/type of blade are you using? I've got a 1/4" blade from timberwolf, but I'm not sure the type offhand.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Beelze,

I've got the Grizzly G0513 17" band saw and am using a 1/4" 6 tpi hook blade, just a cheap one from Grizzly. I usually have a 1/2" blade on it for general use but I needed the 1/4 for this project's required tight turns. I may switch to a smoother cutting blade such as a 1/4" 18 tpi raker

Bret


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Adillo303 said:


> What a well timed thread. I just made my first bands box. My wife was asking about the clearances as well. I told her that saw kerf is what it is. Then I turned to Google. There are indeed thin band saw blades.
> 
> Bret, that idea is really neat. Where do you get chunks of wood like that to start with?


I agree great timing.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

*I think they are breeding*

My latest propagation of "Rock Boxes" fresh from the quarry.

This started out as a burl bowl I was trying to turn. I discovered that the bark inclusion was too severe and it was threatening to blow apart on me. So I cut it up and made these instead.

Bret


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Man, that one on the left looks like a chunk of polished copper.

What do you choose for a knob on these things?


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Prolly the low light setting on my camera creates that effect.


Knobs?, we don't need no stinking knobs::laughing:

Bret


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