# Using a sled for cutting a 45 on a 29" long Post Balluster



## WoodandMetal (Aug 29, 2016)

Hi,

I've just discovered the forum after a while being away from woodworking for a while.

On a deck, I'm putting a Balluster directly against a post in a mitered section of the deck. The deck shape is like half an octogon.

I have to cut 29" long Ballusters with a 45 angle on one face. The angled face will be secured to the Post. The Balluster actual dimensions are ~ 1-1/2" square.

In 2013, a thread titled "Problem Making a Zero Clearance Insert for 45 Degrees" mentioned using a Sled. I can't visualize how to secure the long posts to the sled and use a tilted blade.

I have a left-tilt cabinet saw with infeed and outfeed extensions, and a sled. 

I can use the Table Saw Fence and Vertical Fingerboards (Featherboards) to cut it on the table, but I think I'd have to add some way of preventing rotation of the piece at the end of the cut. Since the "cut" piece will now have a knife edge - rather than a "flat" bottom, I can imagine the workpiece might want to roll onto it's newly cut face due to the pressure from the vertical fingerboards if not prevented from doing so. Maybe the blade will prevent the rotation, but I thought I'd ask. I'm trying to prevent flying debris and doctor's visits if that might happen.

If I have a choice, I'd prefer using the sled when if it's possible.

Thanks in advance for any comments.

Dave


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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

determine the angle . . .
cut some ply/mdf/whatever to make the angle on the sled from backstop to blade line
screw down the angle cut pattern piece to the sled

I actually made a purpose built sled for 45' angles. 
the "custom purpose" bit involves the length of the backstop - it needs to be short enough the 45' piece can "pass thru/by" the backstop at the point the work piece engages the blade. yeah....width of work piece affects how one does this....and eventually how "universal" the 45' sled is.... for me, a four inch width prior to engaging the blade has worked 'longer termish...."


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*overthinking maybe?*

QUOTE:
I have to cut 29" long Ballusters with a 45 angle on one face. The angled face will be secured to the Post. The Balluster actual dimensions are ~ 1-1/2" square.

To make a 45 * bevel on a a 1/1/2" sq. piece is relatively easy. 
You would first angle the blade over to 45*, raise it to a height that will cut through the piece and locate the fence to take off the desired amount. No real need for a featherboard, but if you chose to use one, keep it in front of the teeth. The piece that gets cut off will have a small flat that will support it when it falls away. A zero clearance throat plate is an excellent safety accessory in any situation especially where a narrow piece may fall into the gap between the blade and the opening.

A sled is not normally of sufficient width to allow a rip cut of that dimension. They are normally linted to about 14" or so. They are meant primarily for cross cutting smaller pieces accurately and safely.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Problem with splitting a baluster diagonally is that the profiled section will not ride along the fence because parts of it will be smaller than the squared ends.
I would glue the baluster to a 2x4 at each of the square ends so the 2x4 rides along the fence, now it can be cut on a table saw with the blade tilted or on a bandsaw with the table tilted 45 degrees. It is then just a matter of ripping the squared ends apart from the 2x4 if you can use both halves. A good grade of double-sided tape may work instead of glue, I would trust it with a bandsaw, table saw not so much.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The way I see it is if the deck you are mounting the balluster to is at 45 degrees the cut on the balluster would be at 22.5 degrees. Lay out the angle on the end of the balluster and see if you have enough depth of cut with your saw to make the cut. I believe I would just tack a piece of 1x wood to one side and make the cut on a table saw without the sled. The sled would reduce the depth of cut you would get with the saw.


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## WoodandMetal (Aug 29, 2016)

Thanks everyone for the responses. I've been away for a long while with family and life issues, so I seem to have forgotten anything I previously had learned. The responses remind me how easy it is to forget things and to "overthink" the issue. Yes, the sled really won't accommodate the 26" long pieces

Frank C: You describe what I was concerned about.

It now seems straightforward to cut the ballusters on the saw and skip the sled.

Thanks again for all the comments to help bring me back up to speed a little.

Dave


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*A typical table saw sled is....*

When you said "sled" I pictured what is typically a large platform with fences at either end and is cut into by the first pass making a kerf.

What you may want to use is a "jig" which will support a long piece with an irregular surface like a fluted balluster.

You just make a long board with short ends to screw into the balluster. It will look like a C. The long board rides on the table surface and the against the fence giving to support and allowing a straight cut. You may find the depth of cut is not sufficient using the board as a support and then just rotate it 90 degrees and rely on the fence alone for your cut. If you understand this principle, you can make a jig that will work for, your situation.


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## WoodandMetal (Aug 29, 2016)

Thanks Woodnthings - that's another good idea.

What I've learned from the responses is the variety of approaches that can apply to other future issues I might encounter. It's good to have a big "approach to solve a problem" toolbox!

Thanks,

Dave


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