# Need help with long wall-mounted desk



## jericho24 (Aug 16, 2014)

Hey guys,

I am working on a new desk setup for my room. I am a hard core PC gamer and I wanted something stylish and I came across this:
http://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/blog/wall-mounted-desk-with-angled-supports/

I really like this style and looks clean. However I was concerned of the weight limit the desk could take and if it would be a practical PC gamer desk (meaning full desktop computer setup, 3 monitors, keyboard, heavy pressure on surface). 

This is a rough sketch and sizes of what I am planning to do:










Here is the surface I plan to use, I plan to join 2 of them together: 
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50106773/

These would be the swivel flanges I would use, with 1" diameter aluminum rods for support:
http://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/store/components/kee-lite/lc58-swivel-flange.html

I plan to have 3 pairs of these supports, edges and middle. 

I probably would also install a board around for extra support as such:
http://cdn.simplifiedbuilding.com/images/projects/600/lou-wall-mounted-desk.jpg

My setup with monitors would kinda look something like this:
http://www.club-3d.com/tl_files/clu...INITY/51154A_Woman_Eyefinity_Productivity.jpg

My biggest concern is the MIDDLE of desk, since I am joining 2 pieces together AND how much stress would it be able to handle?

Would something I am trying to make be sturdy enough...or do I have to go for legs?


----------



## Lord Wood (Aug 15, 2014)

If you are that concerned about the total weight, then I wouldn't put the pc on the top, I would just put in on the ground but that's just me. But I don't see why it couldn't support all of the weight especially with 3 supports, but that is just my opinion.


----------



## bzguy (Jul 11, 2011)

The weight of just the 1/2" ply will sag over the two 5' spans if you don't edge-band it like the one in the first link.
Edit to add the one in the first link also has aluminum under it for support, this would prevent 1/2 solid wood top in the other link from sagging.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Another option would be to make legs hinged to fold against the wall similar to the concept of a gateleg table.


----------



## jericho24 (Aug 16, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> Another option would be to make legs hinged to fold against the wall similar to the concept of a gateleg table.


Never seen this before, link?


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

jericho24 said:


> Never seen this before, link?


The picture shows an antique gateleg table. You can see where the top folds down as the opposite side is down. You just raise the top and swing the leg out. For your use you would just have to have a top mounted to the wall the thickness of the legs you would use.


----------



## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

I think the design would hold plenty of weight...

with that said, as another avid gamer, 3 big monitors, tower, ect ect. That desk... would not satisfy me.

For one, leg room, butting up to the wall like that means you cannot stretch out. Maybe Im wierd, but Im certainly not tall, and I often kick my legs out. a 3rd support in the middle would be all the worse as Id be partitioned to half the desk at a time, or else straddle a pole.

For my longer gaming sessions, I much prefer a free standing desk with an open back, perhaps even an ottoman of sorts (aka, a trash can) to really relax. Slide out keyboard tray, and ideally, an L shape as I find them more convenient to put the space where it can be most easily used.


----------



## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Your design should work just fine to hold 200+ lbs per section (400 total, evenly distributed). Using sagulator, I get 1/10th of an inch sag using that board from Ikea which is 1 1/8" thick solid beech wood though probably laminated, not 1/2". As bzguy said, 1/2" will sag like crazy. This assumes several things though:
you mount the wall cleat to the studs. I'd use 1x4 and several 3 1/2" screws in every stud. 
you attach the table top boards very firmly to the wall cleat. That will take a lot of stress - all the downward weight will be transfered to horizontal pull. If using hinges, I'd put them every 12 inches or so.
the legs will support at least 200 lbs each
you use a board under the table top at each leg, running from the front edge to the wall cleat.
the middle leg supports both table tops.


----------



## legacyofbob (Jun 25, 2014)

Hey Jericho, 

I did something almost exactly like this at my friends house, along a 14' wall. We used 1/2" Birch Plywood, but instead of that pipe support system we used 2x2's and 2x4's which were really easy to work with and cut. The whole thing was like $100 to build. I don't have a picture of the completed desk handy but I do have the sketch-up.










The rear 2x4 and 2x2 are attached to every wall stud with heavy duty decking screws and the space in-between them allowed for us to not block electrical outlets. The angled support brackets are just 45 degree miters and they are every 18". You can see we also had to meet up two pieces of plywood in the middle there and so we just doubled-up the supports there and it worked great. The front trim piece wasn't made out of plywood we actually bought some decorative trim from Home depot that had a rounded edge there. It came out great and I could stand on top of it and jump around and it was solid as a rock (I'm 250lbs btw, so not light.)

Edit: Oh the desk is 28" deep btw so we had to use two sheets of plywood. We thought 24" was just too shallow and I'm glad we went with the extra depth, but it does add about $40 on to the project since that's how much each sheet was. We stained the plywood gunstock and laid down 3 coats of poly and it looks great and is holding up well.


----------

