# Ideas and sugestions for stainand finishing Birch fish tank stand



## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

Ok I finished building the stand and canopy, I am not working on the sanding getting ready for the stain and finish. The stand is made out of Birch Plywood. The doors and stand are trimmed with poplar. I wood like to retain as much of the grain as possible. I was thinking of something like a golden pecan stain but I am very open to suggestions. I absolutly have no idea as the the proper way to go about completing this product. I have stained other items before but mostly finished with spraycan clear coat.

Here is a pice of the fish tank stand


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

bbandu said:


> Ok I am in the process of finishing up the doors and trim on a fish tank stand that I built out of Birch Plywood. I am trimming the doors and stand with poplar. I wood like to retain as much of the grain as possible. I was thinking of something like a golden pecan stain but I am very open to suggestions. I absolutly have no idea as the the proper way to go about completing this product. I have stained other items before but mostly finished with spraycan clear coat.
> 
> Here is a pice of the fish tank stand, will post pics of doors when complete.


Staining Birch will bring out the grain. Poplar OTOH is not as grainy. Golden Pecan may not have enough pigment to get the color you want. Test it on both woods before you do the stand. I suggest using a rag and just wipe on the stain (with the grain). You might look at some of the stand alone finishes. They are the ones with a stain and a varnish mix, like Watco. Using that type of finish is easy, as it's basically just a wipe on. No separate stain and topcoat.












 







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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

well I originally thought that I want to stain this a golden pecan but I have actually went to the other side of the spectrum. I am going to stain this a red mahogany. This is a Minwax color but I am not sure if I will actually use this brand, I might have it mixed if possible.









Will I need to treat the birch and poplar with a wood conditioner before staining to help avoid a blotchy appearance. Would it be better to use a oil or water base stain. And what type of finish would be best for a semi-gloss protective finish.


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## DustinB (Mar 30, 2011)

I've always used the minwax conditioner on birch ply. Sanded to 220, popped the grain with water. Applied the conditioner, waited 1 hour and applied the stain with a foam brush with the grain. Wiped lightly with the grain using a folded t-shirt scrap. After wiping the excess, you can blend any problem areas with the same rag by rubbing. I then applied a thinned coat of poly to seal and sanded very lightly with 320. Followed up with a thicker coat, not thinned. Sand, coat, sand coat, etc....

As suggested, a 2x4 section of ply will go a long way in helping you get a nice looking finish. You can see what your result was and get an idea of what went wrong, then try to correct it on another piece. I think lowes/HD has 1/2" birch ply in 2x4 section for about $6. Cut it in 4 - 1x2 sections.


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

ok so let me get this process straight, you sand to 220, popped the grain with water and then applied the conditioner, waited 1 hour then applied stain with foam brush and wiped of with rag in direction of grain. Repeat steps till its as dark as I want it and any problem area have been blended.

Then apply thinned coat of poly to seal and sand lightly with 320. 
apply thicker coat of poly and sand, then repeat.

Ok now some questions:
How do I pop the grain with water?
After conditioner is applied to the raised grain do I need to sand?
What is first coat of poly thinned with, at at what ratio?


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## DustinB (Mar 30, 2011)

To pop with water get a jug of distilled water and spray the face of the board, let it dry. Do not sand after conditioner or stain, you should only sand lightly after the stain has dried.

I only stain once. With the test boards I will play with the grit I sanded with and the time I leave the stain on. More grit allows the wood to take more stain, finer grit allows it to take less. Since ply has more open fibers than solid wood and is thinner, I suggest starting with 220. Th reason I only stain once if because of the conditioner. Once it dries the wood is sealed and will likely not take any more stain. Usually a second coat of stain will actually dissolve and remove some of the previous stain. As for thinning the poly, I do about 30% mineral spirits, some people don't thin at all.

I am still somewhat new to all this myself, but this is just what has worked for me. There are many opinions on what works, but everyone will tell you to try different things on your test pieces. Wood is different from place to place and sometimes even board to board, this makes testing a must.


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

I have plenty of test pieces to try this on, ans since this is going to be such a major focal point in my house I want it to look nice. I will try the test pieces first.
Thanks


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Putting water on it will "raise" the grain and it will need to be sanded again. I just wipe down with mineral spirits and stain immeadiatly. No blotching. :smile:


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

I appreciate all the responces to this, So after grain is raise resand, then wipe down with mineral spirits and stain immeadiatly. 

What grit sand paper should I resand with after the grain is raised. If I was to sand between coats of poly which grit is recommended?

and a couple sanding questions: 

I intend to sand to 150 grit is this enough or do I need to go further in the sanding process?

If I was to sand between coats of poly which grit is recommended?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I dont use water.

I sand birch to 120x, blow off, wipe with MS, then stain. :smile:


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

Will wipeing with MS rais the grain


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## DustinB (Mar 30, 2011)

Slightly, nowhere near as much as water.


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

what grit should I sand between coats of poly with, or should I sand at all.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

bbandu said:


> what grit should I sand between coats of poly with, or should I sand at all.


 
320x light scuff sand. :smile:


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

is wiping the wood down with MS the same as putting on a wood conditioner


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Yes, it has the same effect.

Try it on some scraps. :smile:


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

thank you very much


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

One last question, When using the MS does it matter if the stain is water or oil based? And I should not have any problem appling a poly over this.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I would stick with an oil base stain, then oil base poly. :smile:


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

thats what I was thinking, 

which poly is better wipe on or brush on.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

bbandu said:


> thats what I was thinking,
> 
> which poly is better wipe on or brush on.


 
I've never tried the wipe on.

When I used to use poly, it was always brushed on. :smile:


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

I know that the light sanding between coats will take care of any brush marks but I am just worried about the brush marks showing in the final coat


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## DustinB (Mar 30, 2011)

Don't use minwax quick drying poly. Try something like general finishes arm-r-seal.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

You can thin oil poly upto 30% with MS. :smile:


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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

ok I appreciate all the helpfull info, want to make this thing look as good as I can.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mdntrdr said:


> You can thin oil poly upto 30% with MS. :smile:



Sounds like a wiping version to me. Wipe it on = no brush marks.
P.S., BTW, FYI, IMO...Plain mineral spirits is not a wood conditioner.












 







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## bbandu (Mar 29, 2011)

Will it work the same way, or should I do both, wipe down with MS and then use a wood conditioner


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