# Red Oak finishing advice



## Broken Bat (Sep 4, 2012)

Hello everyone,
I am working on an end table and would like to ask some advice on finishing since I'm new to "fine" woodworking. Right now I'm still in the cutting, fitting, cussing, and re-fitting stage but I am slowly working toward a finished product.

The table is solid red oak throughout (to match other furniture in the house) and will need to be stained. The color is still somewhat up in the air but it will not be very dark. The finish will need to be fairly durable, especially on the table top. My plan right now is to sand everything to 180 grit and wipe on a water based stain in coats until I reach the color I'm looking for. Then, after fully drying, apply a few coats (2-3) of water based poly sanding between fully dried coats. 

I have no particular reason for choosing water based stain and poly other than I've heard their easier to work with, but I could be talked into something else pretty easily.

As I said, I would love to get some advice from the pros before I start. I do fully intend to make samples before I move on the actual piece.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you can't spray a finish, the regimen you picked will work just fine. Try it out on samples first.













 







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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Bat
Oak is an open grain wood. Fine woodwork made from oak requires filling the open grain to get a really good finish. If your staining it the filler will make it go on more even. It's easy to do. Also you might want to sand down to 220. 180 is pretty rough. I would try to sand all parts while apart completely before assembly. After assembly finish sand.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Broken Bat (Sep 4, 2012)

Thanks for the responses guys

Cabinetman- I will definitely be making some samples. That seems like the smart thing to do, both to figure out what to use and how to apply it.

Al- I was actually wondering about grain fillers. I would like to end up with a very smooth surface without feeling the wood grain. I realize that oak may not have been the best choice for that but The Boss (my wife) wanted oak. I have read that oak does not require a wood conditioner since it stains well by itself. Would a grain filler affect the stain penetrating the wood? I don't want to go very dark, but I wouldn't exactly call the color I'm picturing "light" either.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Broken Bat said:


> I was actually wondering about grain fillers. I would like to end up with a very smooth surface without feeling the wood grain. I realize that oak may not have been the best choice for that but The Boss (my wife) wanted oak. I have read that oak does not require a wood conditioner since it stains well by itself. Would a grain filler affect the stain penetrating the wood? I don't want to go very dark, but I wouldn't exactly call the color I'm picturing "light" either.


If you don't want to feel the grain, a grain filler (AKA paste wood filler) can be used. It's a much faster method than trying to fill the grain with sealer and topcoats. Do not use "wood putty", or repair type wood fillers.

It's available in waterbase and solvent base. They come in colors and can be tinted. For whichever one you pick follow the directions carefully. Some require a sealer first, or possibly stain first. Depending on the brand, and how the wood is prepped, will determine your steps in application and finish.

I also recommend making a sample with whatever you use. Take it out to the final finish coat so you can get an idea what it will look and feel like.








 







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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't care for water based stains and finishes but if that is what you want to use your procedure is fine. I believe it will take more than 2-3 coats of finish but you can decide that when you get there. You can keep putting coats of finish on until you get the desired look. 

Its pretty uncommon to use paste wood filler on oak. There is no reason you can't use it though. Most people want to see the texture of the wood on oak. Its on woods like walnut and mahogany the glass like finishes are applied. I use an oil based wood filler from Mohawk Finishing Products. They also make a water based filler which would be more appropriate with your water based stains.


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## Broken Bat (Sep 4, 2012)

Thanks for the help.

It looks like the biggest lesson I can take from here is to make samples. I'll try sanding to different grits, with grain filler and without, and various coats of stain and poly. I might even learn something about finishing wood. Luckily I have several pieces of scrap to use. Hopefully I'll have this thing on the Project Showcase sometime.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Broken Bat said:


> Thanks for the responses guys
> 
> Cabinetman- I will definitely be making some samples. That seems like the smart thing to do, both to figure out what to use and how to apply it.
> 
> Al- I was actually wondering about grain fillers. I would like to end up with a very smooth surface without feeling the wood grain. I realize that oak may not have been the best choice for that but The Boss (my wife) wanted oak. I have read that oak does not require a wood conditioner since it stains well by itself. Would a grain filler affect the stain penetrating the wood? I don't want to go very dark, but I wouldn't exactly call the color I'm picturing "light" either.


Filler is the best way to get an even color if you use stain. It keeps you from those ugly black spots that collect in the grain. I don't use pigment stain anymore. I like the dye type better. It's more like coloring the wood rather than muddying it up. 

The filler will give you the richer look. Some except stains better that others.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Broken Bat said:


> Thanks for the help.
> 
> It looks like the biggest lesson I can take from here is to make samples. I'll try sanding to different grits, with grain filler and without, and various coats of stain and poly. I might even learn something about finishing wood. Luckily I have several pieces of scrap to use. Hopefully I'll have this thing on the Project Showcase sometime.


Sure it's uncommon because oak isn't known for fine finishes and many don't know how much better the wood looks when you do use it. It's truly the proper way to finish open grain wood.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## slevapaul (Aug 25, 2012)

Thanks for sharing the nice tips. Red oak furniture gives the best look to the home and it is considered as the durable furniture.Finishing should be properly done and and thanks for sharing the nice info.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

*Red Oak Podium*

I just finished a teachers podium made of Red Oak hardwood and 1/4 inch ply. I used Minwax Conditioner wiped on first, then applied MinWax Chestnut stain. I sprayed on several coats of Deft Clear Wood Finish, then sanded lightly and sprayed several more coats.

The finish turned out smooth (I had sanded the wood to 320). No problems with end grain.

Here are a couple of pics.
Hope this helps.
Mike


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## jessy224 (Sep 21, 2012)

*Red Oak finish advice*



Broken Bat said:


> Hello everyone,
> I am working on an end table and would like to ask some advice on finishing since I'm new to "fine" woodworking. Right now I'm still in the cutting, fitting, cussing, and re-fitting stage but I am slowly working toward a finished product.
> 
> The table is solid red oak throughout (to match other furniture in the house) and will need to be stained. The color is still somewhat up in the air but it will not be very dark. The finish will need to be fairly durable, especially on the table top. My plan right now is to sand everything to 180 grit and wipe on a water based stain in coats until I reach the color I'm looking for. Then, after fully drying, apply a few coats (2-3) of water based poly sanding between fully dried coats.
> ...


Red oak is quite easy to stain or finish. Your estimate for 180 grit is fine. It stains well with wipe stain and if you want dark grain, use gilsonite, VDB or other dark colorant.You need to give extra attention to let all the stain evaporate out of the grains before finishing to avoid any bubbles. I like a high solids lacquer for red oak because it smoothes out the grain and gives a nice feel. You may also use the grain-fill techniques.I have used this technique for timber fence. Hope it goes on your case too.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> I just finished a teachers podium made of Red Oak hardwood and 1/4 inch ply. I used Minwax Conditioner wiped on first, then applied MinWax Chestnut stain. I sprayed on several coats of Deft Clear Wood Finish, then sanded lightly and sprayed several more coats.
> 
> The finish turned out smooth (I had sanded the wood to 320). No problems with end grain.
> 
> ...


Okay great job. Slap a Bible on it and your ready to go. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Heh, heh, Al, it's a teacher's podium...for a teacher.  And she is already got it set up in her classroom...filled with third graders!  It should last her a long time.


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## Broken Bat (Sep 4, 2012)

MT Stringer- That's a great looking podium! Very nice finish.

Progress on my table is very slow, but i'm getting closer. I have made a couple of sample pieces to see the finish. I think the one we're going to go with is sanded to 180 grit, 3 coats of Golden Oak stain, 3 coats of water based semi-gloss polyurethane sanded to 320 between coats and wet sanded to 400 after final coat. It gave a very smooth finish that wasn't too shiny for our tastes.


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