# Spray Adhesive for Wood?



## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi everyone,

Do any of you use a spray adhesive for wood? I'm looking for something to spray the back of fretwork and scroll designs that I then fix to a wood substrate for a decorative finish (see example). Spreading normal liquid glue is tedious and it inevitably leads to squeeze out that is difficult to remove (in tiny spaces).

I've seen several products, such as Locktite and 3M, but haven't tried any yet. I'm looking for some recommendations.

Thanks in advance, -SW


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## bigcouger (Jan 4, 2012)

I only use the spray adhesive for my patterens only I dont recommend any I have seen but there are several out there, most spray adhesives will deterate when you start putting finish on them or an oil finish.
Roy


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I'm not into spray adhesives very much but if anything will do it, this probably would:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Super-77/Super77/
:yes:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I also only use spray adhesives for patterns. For what you are doing I would use wood glue. You still have to be careful with the amount of glue you use but what I do on something like that is put universal tinting color in my wood glue so it is the same color as the finished product. If a little ozzes out I can just leave it.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

3M 77 adhesive.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I wouldn't use a spray adhesive, as it would get on visible parts of the field and on the edges of the pattern. I would just use a very small bead of glue on the pattern and glue it in place.









 







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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks everyone. I may test out the 3M 77 just to see how it does.

I've been using regular wood glue previously, but as stated, run into the squeeze out problem. I usually brush it on, but a couple of problems: 1.) it's difficult to get the coat even with a small brush, so there are parts that are just going to squeeze out, and 2.) brushing it thin makes it dry very fast, and when there's a lot of detail the brushing can take a few minutes.

What do you think about adding a little bit of water to glue? Will that extend the open time? I've been using Titebond II but just bought a bottle of III, so maybe that will help.

Also, does Elmer's glue dry clear when it's on wood?

-SW


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Streamwinner said:


> What do you think about adding a little bit of water to glue? Will that extend the open time? I've been using Titebond II but just bought a bottle of III, so maybe that will help.


The factory says 5% is OK, but I don't like it that thin. I would just run a nice thin little bead. If you get squeeze out (I call it spooging), just wipe it off with a wet rag.



Streamwinner said:


> Also, does Elmer's glue dry clear when it's on wood?
> -SW


Elmer's white glue does.









 







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## jenfour6 (May 6, 2014)

Streamwinner said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Do any of you use a spray adhesive for wood? I'm looking for something to spray the back of fretwork and scroll designs that I then fix to a wood substrate for a decorative finish (see example). Spreading normal liquid glue is tedious and it inevitably leads to squeeze out that is difficult to remove (in tiny spaces).
> 
> ...


Abatix.com has a variety of spray glues and adhesives that are usually more reasonably priced than some other ones out there. (On a side note, I would not recommend wood glue, it has never worked well for me.) Here's a link to one of the abatix spray glues: ["http://www.abatix.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=3M77&catlist=50" 3M 77 Spray Adhesive 12 Cans/ Cs] Good luck!


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## amckenzie4 (Apr 29, 2010)

Try some hide glue? I've been playing with it recently and so far I like it more than Titebond, just in working properties. I can control (sort of) how long I have to work it and how thick it is by heating it more or less, which is nice. For your application, I'd think about putting it on in a very small bead warmed a lot, and then rolling it with a rubber roller to spread it. The claim is that it's clear to almost all finishes, so cleanup should only require that you get it off enough to not be visible, not enough to avoid interfering with your finish.

Even the liquid hide glue is a little more of a nuisance, though, since it requires a certain temperature to flow... my shop doesn't ever reach that temperature, so I have to use a hot water bath to use it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jenfour6 said:


> Abatix.com has a variety of spray glues and adhesives that are usually more reasonably priced than some other ones out there. (On a side note, I would not recommend wood glue, it has never worked well for me.) Here's a link to one of the abatix spray glues: ["http://www.abatix.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=3M77&catlist=50" 3M 77 Spray Adhesive 12 Cans/ Cs] Good luck!


I'm just mystified that you searched the forum and came up with a two year old thread, and posted a commercial link to a product supplier in your first post. You don't have a location or any information in your profile, seems a lot like a spam post. Maybe I'm wrong.








 








.


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## robert mcintyre (Jan 19, 2014)

*3m spray glue*

I used this to glue a pattern to wood for scroll work. It works well BUT it is messy if you get any on your hand forget washing with hand soap I damm:laughing: near had to use the wire brush on my grinder. If you should shake hands with someone before removing you will be friends for life.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

The 3M 77 spray removes easily with mineral spirits, (paint thinner).


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

cabinetman said:


> I'm just mystified that you searched the forum and came up with a two year old thread, and posted a commercial link to a product supplier in your first post. You don't have a location or any information in your profile, seems a lot like a spam post. Maybe I'm wrong.


You'll know when they don't come back for any real discussion; and you're not wrong. They're on to the next website to spam.


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## igster (Oct 31, 2013)

I thought the idea of an adhesive for scroll saw patterns was to be able to hold the paper in place while cutting, and then remove the paper once the pattern was cut out. I use an Elmer's glue stick. If I don't slather it on too thick, it peels off relatively easy, but there is always a bit of scraping with a razor or some sanding to remove it. I also tried a suggestion I saw somewhere about using clear tape over the pattern to help prevent paper tearout and lubricate the blade.


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## Woodworker Seth (May 9, 2014)

I mainly use wood glue, but I would like to see a decent recommendation as well.


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