# How Best to De-gloss McCloskey Spar Varnish Gloss?



## csrote (Jun 8, 2015)

Wanted to bring back to life the walnut-veneered cabinet of a Hammond organ that had suffered much cosmetic damage.
First, I removed the existing finish and performed veneer repairs at a level of competence to be expected of someone with no experience in the field. After stripping and surface prep, staining actually went fairly well on the walnut veneered body of the cabinet (but not on the splotchy pine plinth at the base of the cabinet). Finally, I applied a number of coats of McCloskey Spar Varnish Gloss using foam pad applicators (not bristle brushes). 

This was in 2009, so I am sure the finish is very much cured by now in 2015. Although my veneer repairs were badly done, on the undamaged veneer surfaces I kind-of like the finish. It seems to be fairly hard, and, hopefully, resistant to future damage.


The problem is that the finish is much too glossy. The high gloss looks quite amateurish ("slathered on") in most lighting situations. and the ripples caused by poor surface prep and varnish application sure don't help The photos I will attach were taken outdoors in natural sunlight and look much better than when the cabinet is indoors.

I would prefer a satin finish. I was told that I can degloss the finish by rubbing it with 0000 steel wool and paste wax. Can someone please confirm or refute this advice? Could someone please provide step-by-step instructions? If this suggestion is correct, what do you do as a final wipe after the steel wool and paste wax has done its work? Have also read of using automotive products such as No7 (07610) White Plastic Polishing Compound (Amazon.com). Again, what cloth to use? what does "final wipe" consist of? etc for this newbie.

I have so many points of disappointment with this project. Sigh. I now just want to make it visually tolerable by getting rid of the gloss, reassembling the cabinet and moving on to more satisfactory pursuits, such as playing the organ.

Thank you for any help you can provide.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

From where you are I would sand it to scuff the finish and apply a coat of satin spar varnish over what you have. Some folks like to rub a finish out to dull the sheen but I don't care for the appearance. It's very difficult to get a uniform sheen. You end up getting streaks all over it. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything if you want to give it a try. Rather than steel wool I would use a #6448 dark gray scotch brite pad. Let it glide on the finish instead of putting a lot of pressure on the pad. A lot of pressure is more apt to make streaks. 

Please note that a spar varnish is intended to be used on exterior wood. On exterior wood such as the front door of your house the wood is subjected to weather extremes which makes the wood expand and contract much more than interior wood. Since the finish needs to expand and contract with the wood a spar varnish is used. Because it is able to expand and contract that much it is a much softer finish than an interior polyurethane which is harder and more resistant to the day to day abuse furniture gets. An interior finish would have been a better choice for your organ but unless you strip the spar off I would stay with it. It would be worse to put an interior poly over a spar.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I'm with Steve on sanding and re-coating with a coat of a compatible satin, but I don't like the ScotchBrite pad for deglossing. I have found them to have a very inconsistent scratch pattern. I prefer high quality 0000 steel wool and wax. I've had decent luck wrapping the steel wool around a block to distribute my hand pressure.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Spar varnish isn't a good choice for interior furniture. If you can't spray and have to brush I would recommend Behlens Rock Hard Table Top Varnish (they make it in a satin sheen) or even a quality shellac. Since you already have varnish on I think it would be best to stick with the Behlens.

As far as rubbing out the finish I prefer Abralon Pads. I wet sand with 400, 600 and then 800 grit 3M wet or dry sandpaper to get the surface flat and then switch over to abralon pads on an orbital sander. Start with 1000 grit and stop when you like the sheen. (They make 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit)


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## csrote (Jun 8, 2015)

Thank you Steve, Quickstep and Rick for explaining why spar varnish was a poor choice. I mistakenly thought it would be tougher than interior finishes.

WRT Rick's advice, is there any doubt that the Behlens Rock Hard Table Top Varnish will be compatible with the McCloskey Spar Varnish Gloss?

Quickstep: you referred to high quality 0000 steel wool and wax. Can you please specify reasonable substitutes that I can obtain at the Home Depot? In the past I've found it difficult to obtain appropriate paste wax.

Thank you, all.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Below are a couple of links to steel wool and paste wax. Your corner hardware store should have this stuff also. 

I noticed some brush marks in the finish, so be aware that the steel wool might not always reach the "valleys" in the brush marks, making the rubbed finish a little inconsistent. That's why I thought you might be better off top coating with a compatible satin finish. 

Rubbing with 0000 steel wool and wax will only knock down the gloss a little bit; To me, this is the best look there is, but it won't be matte. It's one of those subjective things. 



http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-4-0-12-Pad-Steel-Wool-Super-Fine-Grade-10120000/100212006

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SC-Johnson-16-oz-Fine-Paste-Wood-Wax-00203/100154748


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If it were me I would not use the Behlens finish unless you strip the spar varnish off first. You would be putting a hard finish over a soft one. The McCloskey satin spar varnish would be a lot more compatible.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

If you're pleased with the finish and just want it less glossy, I would use the OOOO steel wool to pull down the gloss. I would do this dry (no wax).. 
Once you get a piece de-glossed, then you can wax it if you want to. 
If you try and use the wax in the beginning, you won't be able to tell what your doing very well. 
Wax is a finish itself. If you decide to use a wax, you can use Brown Johnson's Floor Wax. Wax will partly restore the shine that you just worked to remove with steel wool.


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