# Gaps under baseboard



## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

I'm installing some oak baseboard moldings, but the floor is not perfectly flat so there are some small gaps in places.

I can fix that by hand planing the baseboard to fit. How hard should I try to make it fit well? I want it to look good, but don't want to spend forever working on this project.

Would 1/32" gaps be fine, or should I try harder?

What would you consider to be an excellent fit?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Will you be adding a toe moulding?... 1/4 round.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

You might wanna consider base shoe, it will conform much easier and add another element to your trim. It is almost always used on hardwood / vinyl / tile applications for just that reason. :smile:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

mdntrdr said:


> You might wanna consider base shoe, it will conform much easier and add another element to your trim. It is almost always used on hardwood / vinyl / tile applications for just that reason. :smile:


Base shoe - Shoe molding - toe molding... Funny how the things we use have so many different names! lol

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mdntrdr said:


> You might wanna consider base shoe, it will conform much easier and add another element to your trim. It is almost always used on hardwood / vinyl / tile applications for just that reason. :smile:


+1. I agree. It's available in a few sizes. Or, you can make your own.












 







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## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

Hmm, I had not been planning to install a base shoe.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Paul250 said:


> Hmm, I had not been planning to install a base shoe.


 
Then I would scribe, and belt sand.

Good luck. :smile:


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## Oak Tree Woodworks (Mar 25, 2010)

Remember, Plan for expansion!


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Paul250 said:


> I'm installing some oak baseboard moldings, but the floor is not perfectly flat so there are some small gaps in places.
> 
> I can fix that by hand planing the baseboard to fit. How hard should I try to make it fit well? I want it to look good, but don't want to spend forever working on this project.
> 
> ...


Paul , 
the solution is to scribe and then plane the bottom of the baseboard .
Fit the board into position , and temporary tack nail it if necessary. 
Lay your pencil flat on the floor , checking first to see that the point touches the wood at the highest spot (the widest gap) . Starting at at one end , move it to the other end scribing a line that follows the floor line .
Plane the bottom edge of the baseboard to that line .
It is helpful to plane a slight undercut toward the rear , so the contact point is to the front .
If you have to join this board to another , either a running joint or an internal or external join , factor this into your scribing and planing at those points .



> Would 1/32" gaps be fine


If a board only has that tiny amount as it's widest gap , then undercut the whole length of the timber and see it that closes it up .




Jock


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

firemedic said:


> Base shoe - Shoe molding - toe molding... Funny how the things we use have so many different names! lol
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


 We call then skirting's rather than baseboards :thumbsup:



And we don't add a quarter round to the job , not if we can help it :thumbdown:


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## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

Would a belt sander make the job a lot easier than a hand plane? It looks like small belt sanders start at around $100, which could be worth it as some of the boards will need a moderate amount of material removed to make them fit. 

NB: the 1/32" was on one board, after I'd planed and undercut it.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

mdntrdr said:


> Then I would scribe, and belt sand.
> 
> Good luck. :smile:


 
:smile:


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

Yes, I would belt sand rather than plane. I put base in my house after I did the hardwood floor and there are some gaps here & there. I hated the idea of putting shoe mould down because it makes it harder to put dressers etc. tight to the wall. So, I just left the gaps. Some are 1/16" but I only noticed them as I was doing the job. Now the gaps are not there.:yes:


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

This is a perfect time to consider a power planer.
It can follow your scribe line perfectly and put a backcut on it effortlessly by just tilting it as you run the edge. You can adjust the depth of cut from really having to take off a lot, to just fine tuning a finished edge.
Belt sanding is dusty and takes forever with large scribes.

You can also use it for many other purposes. Shaving doors, putting a finished edge on a milled piece of trim, dressing small pieces of rough lumber...

I bought the Bosch with the replaceable carbide blades. Carbide is the key to this tool.:thumbsup:


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Tall,6...8...and 10 inch base here at the house,1/4 sawn SYP(southern yeller pine).No shoe......its a very clean look.And considering above base species is a downright PIA sometimes.I use a razor sharp #3 Stanley and just get on with it.

On really tall base's,anything over 6 or so....theres one particular profile for shoe that stands out in historic house/building world.It for all practical reason is the same as an OG doorstop.....not the narrow ones,the ones that are about 1 1/4 wide X 1/2" thick.And heres the kicker;one that most simply can't process till they see it "live"..........is,more often than not the "shoe"(which is really miniture basebd)is painted Black.Next time you see the president giving a speech from W-House....look at the shoe.Its as described above.

The "notion" of it being Black is based(ha) on the fact that there IS a perceptable "line" if you will around rm where base hits flr.Irrespective of whether or not theres any shoe.Shadow lines are....wait for it,Black.Hence this is why we do Black shoe.It makes that line disappear.Don't take my word for it....start looking for it.BW


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Scribing the bottom of base moulding can change the overall height. This can be problematic when there are return walls. Understanding what scribing is, makes this clear. If a base moulding shows gaps, the high areas (places where it touches) have to be cut down to allow the areas with gaps to close up. Done right it has a very clean look.

Using a belt sander or a power planer can take off too much, too fast.












 







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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Yup C-man........thats deffinately "at issue".You have to run around the rm where this the most prevelant with a straightedge.We use a 1/4X2X72" Aluminum pce......just checking.Locating "trouble" spots as early as possible.Its a step that pays for itself later in the install..........only takes a few minutes.Don't do it and......ok wheres the caulking,Haha.BW


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Yep , the issue has already been covered a few posts back . 
Thanks for agreeing with me tho :thumbup:


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Am waiting on fresh corn on the cob to finish,pulled Pork is done.....this is a corner in DR.Look at the space between backband and termination of base........theres a space there.IF,shoe was installed it would be 45'd and die into this space.Theres some other things going on with casing and rm but just wanted to show how a little planning can really speed up the effort later.Cobweb's optional,BW


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

1/32" is fine


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## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks for the advice everyone!

It was a bit of work, but I've got all my baseboard scribed and trimmed. I used a planer and belt sander to trim the boards and that worked out well.

To install them, what size nails or brads should I be using? The molding is 3/8" by 3 1/4" red oak, and I'll rent a nailer.

How close to the end of a board can I nail safely? Should I use glue instead on the little pieces that are just an inch or two long?

Also, along my exterior walls, I was thinking of squirting some expanding latex foam into the crack between the floor and wall before installing the baseboard. My house is old and has no vapor barrier, so I thought this might be a good thing to do. Any thoughts on that?


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## Jim West Pa (Jul 27, 2010)

No matter what route you decide to take Paul.Yer lookin at this whole thing all wrong.This is not an issue of havin a problem decidin on what to do about yer base board gap,it's an opportunity to go buy a new tool :smile:
I'd be undecided on whether to use a belt sander or a power plane, sooooo, the only obvious solution is to git both :thumbsup:


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## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

I've already bought the power planer and belt sander. But you're saying I now need to buy the brad nailer? haha!


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

Paul250 said:


> I've already bought the power planer and belt sander. But you're saying I now need to buy the brad nailer? haha!


Don't forget the small compressor & hose to go with it. You can buy it as a kit to save money. My wife would call that gift with purchase. You can't do that if you rent it.:thumbsup:


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## chris_klee (Jan 20, 2008)

23ga pin nailer will be best for the really small pieces and returns. maybe find a kit with the 18ga and 23ga?


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## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

Yes, fill the void before you put the molding up. Lifetime caulk, expanding foam, stuff in fiberglass, whatever it takes.


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## Paul250 (Nov 24, 2010)

I used an 18 gauge brad nailer and it worked excellently. That is one of the best power tools: not only does it do a great job, it goes BAM!

Anyhow, I've got the nail holes filled and the final coat of varnish is drying.

Thanks for the advice, everyone!


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

*backband*

Sorry, but I don`t like the look...stopping the base (with a return) befor the backband:no:


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

*disreguard that last post*

Wooops:thumbdown:


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## Trimguy (Oct 1, 2011)

When working with oak, I have found that the easiest way for me to scribe to the floor (which is of course the best option. 1/32 is fine if you don't have a discerning eye. If you really want to impress people, leave absolutely no gaps) I will run my stock through a table saw and bevel the bottom of the material at a slight angle. For instance, if my largest gap is an 1/8, I will bevel the bottom of the stock at a 5 degree. Then I can even sand the excess after scribing with sandpaper and a sanding block. I suggest doing it this way because as Cabinetman said, planers and belt sanders can take off too much, too fast. Don't get in a hurry. The material you install will be there for a long time. Might as well make sure you did it right!


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## Trimguy (Oct 1, 2011)

Paul250 said:


> Thanks for the advice everyone!
> ...Should I use glue instead on the little pieces that are just an inch or two long?...


It isn't an inexpensive product and you dang well better be sure when you are using it but, http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...ools&hvadid=4038544845&ref=pd_sl_7iqtfdr5s2_e this stuff is amazing! I use it on all of my corner miter pieces now. I suggest the "Jel" I know, it's $40 and doesn't look like a lot, but you also don't need a lot. Then the $17 activator. I used to use the 23 gauge and still think it's a really good option.:thumbsup:


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## Trimguy (Oct 1, 2011)

pianoman said:


> Sorry, but I don`t like the look...stopping the base (with a return) befor the backband:no:


I believe you are talking about the uneven floor thread? Yes? I agree. My suggestion isn't the most ideal look. What IS the most ideal look is even transitions. Or as was mentioned later, no quarter round at all.


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