# Problem removing jointer wedges



## larryn (Dec 30, 2010)

Hi, I am having a problem replacing the blades on an older Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer. I purchased this jointer new around 1983 and have used it occasionally over the years. The model number is 113.206931 and the serial number is 4017.P0663 I never attempted to change the blades until recently and cannot get the wedges loose in order to remove the blades. I have tried WD40, PB Blaster, and a 50/50 solution of automatic transmission fluid and acetone that a friend of mine says works better than anything one can purchase for this purpose. I have worked on this for about a week now with no success at all. It is very hard to hit the wedges with a punch since the bearings are real close to the cutterhead, and there is hardly any room for prying. I have not tried to use any heat and I'm a bit reluctant to do so. I thought that perhaps I could knock the arbor out and then with the cutterhead removed from the jointer, I would be in a better position to deal with it. So, I came across this forum and thought that I may be able to receive some expert assistance and/or advice. I'm not sure how hard it will be to knock the arbor out but Sears does carry replacement bearings if I screw them up but there are no wedges or cutterheads available so I need to proceed with caution. I noticed that on the cutterhead there are two screws which appear perhaps to be set screws for the arbor but i'm not sure about that. I assume that the arbor can be removed with a punch and hammer? Not sure how else it could be done? I'm not terribly excited about removing the cutterhead just to replace blades but not sure what else I can try in order to loosen up the parts. For the time being I can put the screws back in (they all did come loose) and sharpen the blades a bit with a stone. Thanks for any advice. larryn


----------



## sketel (Sep 15, 2010)

Yeah, they can get pretty stuck if they've been sitting for a long time. Forgive me for asking but are you trying to punch them down into the cutterhead? That is what you need to do to loosen them. If you are trying to knock them out by punching them sideways, that is not going to work. Use a piece of hardwood as a punch since a metal punch can damage the wedges (gibs).


----------



## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

I have the same jointer and the same problem. I just spray liberally with WD40. Then I use a small screw driver and a hammer to get under the gib. That old planer goes through several linear of mesquite weekly. I change blades often.


----------



## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

I have an old 4 1/2 inch model like that. It may come down to you removing the cutter head altogether. Which in itself can pose a challenge, if the bearings and pulley won't come off. With the cutter head off, you can hit it with some heat and knock them out with a piece of wood. Bearings are cheap if you break them. Put anti seize lube on every bolt when you reassemble, you will be glad you did.

Where are you getting the blades, direct from Sears?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Yup!*



Gene Howe said:


> I have the same jointer and the same problem. I just spray liberally with WD40. Then I use a *small screw driver and a hammer to get under the gib*. That old planer goes through several linear of mesquite weekly. I change blades often.


I have the same jointer also. On the end opposite the drive pulley there should be enough room to get a screwdriver under the gib and pry it up. Another "trick" might be to use the adjusting screws (allens) to raise the blade a touch to loosen it. It shouldn't be frozen, just in there tight. Don't be taking the cutter head off yet . That really won't help much anyway.  bill


----------



## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> I have the same jointer also. On the end opposite the drive pulley there should be enough room to get a screwdriver under the gib and pry it up. Another "trick" might be to use the adjusting screws (allens) to raise the blade a touch to loosen it. It shouldn't be frozen, just in there tight. Don't be taking the cutter head off yet . That really won't help much anyway.  bill


The one I have was sitting on a garage floor for twenty years, everything came out. :yes:


----------



## larryn (Dec 30, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. In response to Sketel, yes, I am trying to hit them sideways. The instructions with the jointer say to try and pry them up with a screwdriver if they just don't pop out when you remove the screws. I have a Belsaw 12" plane and with that cutterhead, it says to hit the wedges down with a block of wood to release them. That I have done many times and it always works. This system on the jointer doesn't seem to be designed the same way. But, I'll certainly try hitting them down and see if that works. Nothing to lose as I don't think I can get them stuck any more than they already are. To Gene, I have bent a couple of screwdrivers already trying to loosen the wedges. To Cheese, I think the blades I have for replacement probably came from Sears. I bought them when I bought the jointer but never replaced the original ones. To Woodnthings, I have been trying at the end opposite the drive pulley and there is not much room there for prying. I'll look at the pulley end however but have to remove the blade guard to get to it. Also, I have already tried the 'trick' of raising the blade screws but couldn't get anywhere with that either. I'll look into hitting the wedges downwards and will expose the other side of the shaft to see if there is more prying room there and will report back. Thanks to everyone so far. larryn


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Wedge confusion*

There are 2 types of wedges used in that style of jointer:
1 piece wedge OR a bar with 4 tightening bolts. Be aware that "unscrewing the bolts" CCW, actually tightens them against the cutterhead.
My jointer model 113.20621 uses the old style one piece wedge, as you tighten the screws it compresses/wedges in further. The other style uses 4 bolts that you snug up against the blade to hold it in place. Your model comes up as using the bar W 4 bolts. What's to stop you from loosening the 4 bolts and freeing up the bar and knife assembly? I it possible that your jointer has a carryover wedge rather than the bar W 4 bolts?
If so, use some Kroil, an excellent penetrating oil that seeps into every crevice to loosen up frozen parts. My newer jointer also a Craftsman 6" has the newer style bar W 4 bolts, as in the first photo:


----------



## sketel (Sep 15, 2010)

larryn said:


> The instructions with the jointer say to try and pry them up with a screwdriver if they just don't pop out when you remove the screws.


Apparently this jointer is different than the ones i've used. Sounds like plenty of people have experience with your jointer though.


----------



## larryn (Dec 30, 2010)

In reply to "woodnthings", my jointer appears to have the one piece wedge with the 2 screws that come all the way out. Also, I don't have the room that in shown in the photos for prying. Its really hard on mine to get any leverage. I will work on this for a while longer before considerating pulling out the cutterhead. I really want to avoid that if at all possible.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*One other thought*

Prying is sometimes not the answer. A sharp blow on the end of the screw driver is better in this case. Maybe even a nail set will
have enough taper, or a small cold chisel. good luck!  bill


----------



## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

pull the head off, if it has been there long enough to freeze the blades and wedges solid then you can bet the bearing are are not to good it is time to service the machine :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

get a spiral head for it never have the problem again:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Easy for you to say*

You gonna give him the $600.00 :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

600 thats cheap my club just payed $1,500 for one :thumbsup:


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Well then, write him the check there woody*

BTW these jointers are selling on Ebay for $200.00
A new $1500 cutterhead is not the answer he was looking for.


----------



## cheese9988 (Jan 4, 2010)

woody woodturner said:


> pull the head off, if it has been there long enough to freeze the blades and wedges solid then you can bet the bearing are are not to good it is time to service the machine :thumbsup::thumbsup:


This is what I'm thinking. If you pry too hard, or hit it too hard, you could dent or crack something. Also on mine (a 103.x model), you can slide the 1/2 inch main shaft accidently by hitting it. If the bearings are worn, you can pick up a new set for $20 anyway. With the new bearings I can whip the cutter head around and it will spin freely for ten seconds or more on its own.


----------



## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

as i said pull the head off new bearings easy access :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## larryn (Dec 30, 2010)

Once again. Thanks to everyone and your very helpful suggestions. I have attacked the problem a couple more times without success so I plan to put the screws back in and attempt to sharpen the blades a bit with a stone, finish my project and then go at it again with a bit more vigor. I don't want to start hitting on the blades right now and then be stuck with not being able to use the jointer at all. I am going to consider knocking out the arbor and dealing with the cutterhead off of the machine which will be only other alternative if I can't loosen things up in place, although my prior experience with arbors and bearings tells me that I could have problems knocking the arbor out considering how frozen everything else seems to be. I placed the initial posting on three different forums. (Woodworking Talk; Old Woodworking Machines; and North Carolina Woodworker). I am very impressed with everyone on all forums and I appreciate your interest in my problem and your suggestions. I will let you all know how things turn out and for what its worth, attached is a picture of the cutterhead. Any furtherr words of wisdom will certainly be appreciated. larry


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If they are "frozen" try this*

Get Some penertating oil, Kroil or Gibbs or PB Blaster,* not WD40,* and squirt it under the wedges from the both sides.

Making certain the cutter is* clear* of obstruction, briefly turn the machine on. Centrifugal force will throw the penetrant along side the wedges and knifes to force it in. Do this a few times and in a few days they should loosen up. A sharp "rap" not a heavy blow, downward on the wedge should help, making sure the leveling screws are fully up, or you'll just end up tightening the whole assembly. You should be able to get a bar, steel or brass against the side of the wedge to do the same thing, if you can't get any other wedged shaped tool under them. Any upward force will be great. It will take some patience, physics and chemistry on this one. 
I would not be adverse to applying a little heat from a propane torch to the wedges, since the knives may be a lost cause. I'm not talking red hot, just hot to the touch to allow the metal to expand and the oil to seep in. Do this as a last resort though if the oil won't work. :thumbsup: bill


----------



## NYwoodworks (Sep 19, 2010)

I just went through this with my craftsman planer. I was fortunate that on one side the blades were hanging out an 1/8 inch so I turned the head so the blade was facing down and I was able to get a small screwdriver in beside the head and hit the back edge of the blade as it was facing down and they popped right out.


----------



## Mic486 (Dec 25, 2014)

I have the same type craftsman jointer as the original poster and the exact problem. I used the method described by NYwoodworks in the post above and it worked perfectly. The only thing I would add is put something soft (rags or a towel) below the area where the knife and wedge will be falling.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Mic486 said:


> I have the same type craftsman jointer as the original poster and the exact problem. I used the method described by NYwoodworks in the post above and it worked perfectly. The only thing I would add is put something soft (rags or a towel) below the area where the knife and wedge will be falling.


I'm not sure about all craftsman jointers but the gibs or wedges on the craftsman jointer I have are made of steel and don't need a rag to protect them.


----------



## Mic486 (Dec 25, 2014)

The knife and wedge fall out together if one takes the wedge screws out as mine were. If the screws were left in and loosened the knife might come out and some cushion below wouldn't hurt.


----------



## esalmon (Sep 15, 2016)

Hi,

I had the same issue and what finally worked for me is just using a penetrating oil, letting that sit for a while, then using a screwdriver and a hammer, I turned the spindle so the blade was facing down and then placed the screwdriver on the part of the blade that was sticking out and hit the screwdriver till the blade popped out and fell to the floor. 

This did not damage anything.

Regards,

Erik S.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

esalmon said:


> Hi,
> 
> I had the same issue and what finally worked for me is just using a penetrating oil, letting that sit for a while, then using a screwdriver and a hammer, I turned the spindle so the blade was facing down and then placed the screwdriver on the part of the blade that was sticking out and hit the screwdriver till the blade popped out and fell to the floor.
> 
> ...


Did you wash the head and gibs with a solvent after you got it loose? I would be afraid the oil would make them come out.


----------



## esalmon (Sep 15, 2016)

Steve Neul said:


> Did you wash the head and gibs with a solvent after you got it loose? I would be afraid the oil would make them come out.


I can understand how you would think that however, I wiped them down, they are locked in by hex bolts so they are not going to be coming out.


----------



## David P (Nov 14, 2016)

Excellent information on removing the cutter blades!!!!
I just bought a rusty OLD Craftsman jointer ... cleaned up beautiful ... but I couldn't get the blades to release for inspection/sharpening 
It sure helped me on removing the cutter blades/wedges on my Craftsman 103.20620 6" jointer!!!
I didn't consider tapping the edge of the blade when it was in the bottom position ... 
I have 1 last screw still holding the cutter head on the shaft that I'm going to continue soaking overnight ... then I'll be able to disassemble/clean/replace the bearings/sharpen and adjust the blades and reassemble ...


----------



## wkearney99 (Mar 23, 2017)

esalmon said:


> ...I turned the spindle so the blade was facing down and then placed the screwdriver on the part of the blade that was sticking out and hit the screwdriver till the blade popped out and fell to the floor.


Heh, I just did the very same thing two nights ago. Spun the blade so I could see the edge from above and then gave it a few sharp taps. Eventually managed to work the blade loose enough to let me wiggle it out.

If you have the jointer already off the stand, however, it might be easier to come at it from below. Turn the jointer over, turn the spindle to the blade is facing out the table gap and tap it loose. Just mind that you don't mar the table edge or top. 

A bit of PB and some sandpaper helped clean up the channels in the spindle before replacing the blades.


----------

