# Craftsman Model 315.228490 Table Saw - saw pulley slipping



## gdbird (Oct 8, 2010)

Hello. New to this forum and need a little help with my Craftsman table saw.

The blade pulley on my saw is slipping making it impossible to cut anything. I tightened the set screw in the pulley but it still slips on the shaft. After closer inspection of the shaft it seems to have a groove in it that would accept the set screw, thus allowing the pulley and blade to turn appropriately. My issue is I can't seem to get the pulley moved away from the blade. I have removed the set screw entirely but the pulley will not move away from the blade/over the groove.

I hope I'm making myself clear....any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks - David Bird


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You're in a bit of a pickle*

The set screw has upset a bit of the shaft as it's spun around and that's why you can't get the pulley off. I assume aluminum pulley? The best way is to use a pulley puller, 3 or 4 jaws on a screw shaft that grabs the pulley from the backside and pushes the shaft thru from the front side. Only problem is you probably can't get all that inside the saw housing to make it operate. Maybe you will be lucky. If not you'll end up taking the trunions out and do a bench job. Chances are the shaft is kafutz anyway.
An easy fix might be to remove the set screw, drill the hole into the shaft a lil deeper and then use a longer set screw. Tighten up up real good and hope for the best. It may work for years. Generally it's a keyed shaft with a 3/16 square key. But not knowing your model, I donno. :blink: bill


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## gdbird (Oct 8, 2010)

I'd thought of the pulley puller but I'm pretty sure you're right....not enough room to operate.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

To fix it right, you may have to heat the pulley, then use the puller.

Sometimes, they'll slide right off, or you'll have to make wedges and tap the pulley off the shaft.

Sounds like your shaft is ate up, but as long as it's not bent, just install a new pulley.

Have any pics?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Stick an opened paper clip*

around the pulley to see if there is keyway or maybe you can see the end of the shaft. That's why the pulley spun. A set screw will not secure the pulley to the shaft securely without a keyway...too much torque on start up and under load. You could possible line up the two keyways and drive a key in from the end...enough room? You can make a wide wedge with a slot for the shaft and drive it in between the back of the pulley and the saw arbor to force the pulley off. Aluminum, brass or steel.... hardwood might work? A woodcutters wedge, plastic may work. That's all I have for Ya! :thumbsup: bill


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## gdbird (Oct 8, 2010)

Bill,
I appreciate the suggestions. MAYBE one of them will work. I have to admit that as I was pondering my situation I happened to glance over and saw a jig saw that has a metal cutting blade. For a brief (maybe not so brief) moment I considered cutting a square out of the side of the saw cabinet for an access point. I also considered (after I cut an access point) deadmaning the saw to the most convenient object, wrapping a chain around the pulley, attaching the chain to my GMC and going for a quick, brief ride. What little sense I have prevailed. I will be attempting 1 if not all of your suggestions.
Thanks - David Bird


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I wouldn't suggest cutting the cabinet. If you can determine that there is a keyway in the shaft, and the pulley, the key may be missing, and the set screw is jammed in the shaft (possibly in the keyway).

Maybe somewhere along its life a pulley without a keyway was installed. You may or may not see a keyway on the end of the shaft, but it's likely you would see it in a pulley that had one.

If you remove the screw, and hold the shaft (if possible), and heat the pulley (not the shaft), you may be able to wiggle the pulley off. A squirt or three of WD-40 may help.












 





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## jimlas53 (Oct 4, 2010)

gdbird said:


> Hello. New to this forum and need a little help with my Craftsman table saw.
> 
> The blade pulley on my saw is slipping making it impossible to cut anything. I tightened the set screw in the pulley but it still slips on the shaft. After closer inspection of the shaft it seems to have a groove in it that would accept the set screw, thus allowing the pulley and blade to turn appropriately. My issue is I can't seem to get the pulley moved away from the blade. I have removed the set screw entirely but the pulley will not move away from the blade/over the groove.
> 
> ...


Hi David,
The saw mechanism is mounted in trunnions, which allow it to rotate for angular cuts. They should mount to the bottom of the table with four bolts. You need to dismount the motor, take the adjustment handles off, unbolt the trunnions and pull the saw mechanism out so you can remove the pulley. The saw is designed with a keyway in the saw arbor and a keyway in the pulley. The setscrew clamps the key (thus the pulley) to the shaft. Most likely the setscrew loosened, the key came out, and the fix was to tighten the setscrew on the shaft without the key. Now the setscrew has chewed up the arbor and raised a big bur, which will prevent removal of the pulley. You are correct that it is very difficult to work on the pulley while it is mounted in the enclosure.

With the saw mechanism out, you can address the pulley much easier. A puller may get it off, it will most likely (surely) break the sides of the pulley, but it is junk anyway. The main thing is to get to the saw arbor and see if it will clean up. Judicious use of a file can remove the burrs without removing the basic shaft. Make sure you replace the pulley with the same size/diameter/width. And a good steel key. Wait to tighten the pulley setscrew until you have mounted and reassembled the saw. This way you can align the arbor pulley with the motor pulley.

Keep in mind that the motor is running at 3450 RPM, it is producing over 1HP, and there is a tremendous amount of energy in this system. DO NOT shortcut this repair, as YOU are the one standing closest to the saw, should something come apart.

If you are unsure, just ask. There are plenty of experienced folks here, all willing to help.


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

Precisely what jimlas53 just said! Also, once you get it all apart and the shaft cleaned up, look through the yellow pages or an Internet search and find an electric motor repair shop, let them know what you have going and chances are they will give you several keys for your motor shaft. 

Also, while you have things dismantled, now is a good time to ensure your motor bearings are well lubed. Many hardware stores carry the oil needed (plastic bottle with extension spout). There should be a small plastic cap at the back of the motor where you can add a couple of drops of the oil. Trust me, I have first hand experience in this one! :thumbsup:


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## gdbird (Oct 8, 2010)

UPDATE - Thanks to everyone for their suggestions/assistance. 

This morning I very patiently (totally unlike me) began work on removing the pulley. Got some breakfree short of stuff...sprayed liberally around the pulley shaft. Worked very, very slowly, gently applying pressure to the pulley around the inside perimeter. The pulley gradually began to move towards the outside of the shaft. About 2/3's of the way to success, I couldn't get any more movement....so....moved the pulley back towards the blade...more breakfree...started the process again. Once again it "stuck" at the 2/3's point. So...I reached in, grabbed the pulley and gave it as sharp a twist as I could muster given the limited working area. It came loose and slid nicely off the shaft. Cleaned the shaft of accumulated rust and debris, slid the pulley back on, aligning the set screw with the slot in the shaft, and tightened the set screw into the slot.

SAWING!

I do plan on taking the advise proffered...a good cleaning, motor check, lube, etc.

Only downside to the day...I was so pumped, I decided to build a small cabinet to go under the new big screen...for the cable converter and blu-ray. Nothing fancy...My wife came out of the house this afternoon and appraised my yet to be completed work. With a raised eyebrow, she said "you ARE going to put a top on that thing, aren't you?" 

Sigh.

Thanks for all the input........David Bird


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

If you have a keyway (slot) in both the shaft and the pulley, dress out the slot with a small metal file to clear off any burrs. Pick up the proper size key and use it. The key keeps the pulley from turning on the shaft, and the set screw turns down on the key, not the slot. That keeps the pulley in place.

Doing that, will allow easier pulley removal the next time.












 





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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Key or no Key??*

That is the question! With all the advice re the keyway...no mention of it in the the "fixed it" post. You haven't fixed it unless the keyway and key have been properly replaced. Let us know...you may not be safe.  bill


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## Mr Mac (May 31, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> That is the question! With all the advice re the keyway...no mention of it in the the "fixed it" post. You haven't fixed it unless the keyway and key have been properly replaced. Let us know...you may not be safe.  bill


Agreed! The torque of that motor is more than enough to sheer that set screw and allow the now free moving pulley to come off and become a projectile!


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## gdbird (Oct 8, 2010)

Visiting my electric motor guy on Monday....have suspended any additional work until properly fixed!

Thanks - David Bird


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## jimlas53 (Oct 4, 2010)

Look in the Hardware departments at the big box stores, they have all the odd stuff in the specialty drawers. I'm pretty sure they will carry a selection of keystock. You'll need .187 (3/16) square by 1.25 long, steel key.
It may cost less than the motor guy. Just a possibility...


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