# DP table in progress.



## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I got a new floor model DP yesterday, the Porter Cable one from Lowes. I've wanted one with the features it had, plus I am upgrading from an 8 1/2" baby bench top, so I was pretty excited to get it. I am not reviewing the DP and won't for awhile, but on a side note, man that thing is quiet. My old Shop Fox isn't loud (what DP is) but in comparison I had to look twice to see if it was on. 

Anyways....reason for the post. I started building a DP table tonight. It's kind of fly by the seat of my pants based on several I have seen online and in books and based on what I had on hand. 

It's made of 3/4" particle board with a melamine or similar 1/4" sheet on top of that. I cut out a 2 1/4" square for a replaceable backer. I attached it to the table with two toggle clamps I bought at HF years ago and have never used. The table didn't let me bolt it to it directly. I also put a hook under the table for the morse taper wedge and drilled three holes in the rear vertical face to hold the three hex keys that came with it. I initially tried to make some homemade hardwood t-track, but it didn't work and it got late so I just glued in a hard wood filler in the routed dados and will get some real T-track Tuesday. 

I aslo rounded the back side for easy access to the height lever and rounded the two front ends so my kids don't bump their heads (ok, so I don't bump my head). 

It's a work in progress as I still need to build the fence and hold downs. I'll add them when I get them built and put on, but I am thinking your standard fence that runs in the t-tracks and locks down with knobs and has a repeatable stop on a t-track too. I'm not sure on hold downs yet but will probably get some smaller toggle clamps for those. 

Comments, advise and critisicm always welcome and requested. Thanks!


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Cool design there.:thumbsup:


Here's some bad pics of mine. I'm using 3/8 carriage bolts, countersunk into the top; will fill later with Bondo. Drilled a big ol chunk of steel a few weeks ago, so the 3/8" bolts are plenty big enough. Could have went 1/2".

Bought the cheap T Track, and holddown from Rockler.

The new table is from an old sink cutout, kinda granite looking stuff that was .800 thick, not 3/4".

Look around for heavier TTrack and holddowns.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It looks good so far. You're on the right track (pun :smile. Looking at the holding toggles, I would go with something more substantial. With those I'm thinking you could bump it and maybe set the top ajar. 

You could configure three or more guide blocks on the bottom to fit to the edge of the DP table. Or an add on curved form underneath taken from a pattern of the DP table. In addition to this idea, use tee nuts in the top and use threaded bolts and washers from the bottom. Either of these bottom abutment guides would both center the add-on table and keep it from shifting. 

The top looks good with that shape.












 







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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

A simple design that will serve you well. Nice job. I have to agree with CM though. I would go with some beefier hold downs for that table. Other than that, looks awesome.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks for the compliments and tips guys, I'll definitely look into the better holdfast methods you described for it. The table is kind of a PITA for woodworking. There stock round table has no holes for mounting through it and no flat ridges. Completely designed for metal working I'd assume. The only through holes are for the bit and a drain plug. I'll see if I can mock something up like you described C-man, thanks guys.

HAS, those hold downs look perfect. I think I'll go that route. What's the max thickness they'll hold?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Got it done today. Nothing fancy but it should work. I just need to get a few of them hold downs from the store and I should be all set for drilling. I still need to rethink the bottom, but I have other matters that have been pending that need attended to first.

The only thing I didn't like was the cut out for the handle rotation, but what are ya gonna do. I didn't want a 1/2" tall fence. Shouldn't affect anything.

Total cost for the hardware was about $40. Everything else as scraps or reclaimed, so I think I did ok.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Drill Press Table*

If you are new to drill press tables, I wouldn't accessorize it right a way. Just add the T Track for the fence and wait till you need an accessory before you just blindly build one. Murphy's Law says that what you build at random will always be a hair shorter than you actually need. 
Keep it simple at first.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

One thing I would recommend are flip stops for the fence, with a t track on top of the fence. I use 2 stops. Picture drilling 35mm holes for euro hinges at each end of a bunch of doors. Set 1 flip stop for the top hole and 1 for the bottom hole. The one not being used, needs to be fliped up when using the other stop. 
I made some simple flip stops for a miter gauge fence, with a routed t slot.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Pirate said:


> I made some simple flip stops for a miter gauge fence, with a routed t slot.


 
Now that is high end! :thumbsup:

I've never seen a carpeted drill press before. :laughing:

Seriously, great design on the flip stops. :smile:


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## ironhat (Jul 25, 2009)

*Attempted theft of thread... almost, and with a question.*

I was meaning to search the threads for a DP table that was a featured shop project in one of the WW mags. So, this thread seemed like a likely place to look for it. There were most of the features of yours, ACP, so you are on the right track. I actually saw two; one with a drawer under the table and one with a stack of drawers under the table, supported by the base. Well, there are the ideas so let's get cracking. :laughing: Great ideas, ACP!:smile:


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## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

ACP, that is a great looking table. in fact you inspired me to build one for a new to me drill press. i even have blue track..

anyway, i was wondering about the track on the fence. i was about to instal mine on top of the fence like i have on my crosscut sled. but i remembered seeing yours dadoed into the fence. maybe you just did that because of the cut-out for the handle? or are there other benefits to doing it that way?


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## gus (Oct 31, 2010)

oh, and one more thing. what do you use the track on your stop for?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I did it that way because I envisioned using a hold down jig to clamp vertical pieces to the fence for end grain drilling. I could have gone on top with the cut out too but I didn't have any flipstops on hand either and didn't want to have to buy one. The track on the the stop..... Well I don't have a reason for that yet. There was a small cut off of track left that fit it so I said why not. It wasn't gonna find a use anywhere else most likely. I may use it for clamping thicker vertical pieces if necesary with the mentioned holddown.


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## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Based on your post I also bought the same one from Lowes yesterday. I like the features. Only one down side I am gonig to need to remove the depth stop if I use my mortising jig because of the way the depth stop is mounted. I looked at a similar DP a Menards and the way their chuck is designed the smallest drill bit it will take is about 3/16". The PC will take bits to any small size you need. 

One note you really do not need two people to assemble the DP. Simply attach the stantion to the base, lay it down so the back of the base and stantion are facing the floor. About 12" from the top of the stantion put wood blocks to hold the stantion 12" off of the floor. Lift the DP head and insert it on to the stantion and push as far on to the stantion a possible. Tighten the set screw and raise the DP into position. Now unscrew the set screws and make sure the head is all the way down and retighten the set screws.

The laser feature is very simple to adjust, "just read the direction" which are very good.

I will follow up with a further review later as well.


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## JimRich (Jun 10, 2011)

Excellent! It turned out great. I need to buy me a floor stander. I have a delta shopmaster... it falls short. :laughing:


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## daviddoria (Dec 18, 2007)

*Final table attachment?*

ACP - did you ever implement anything sturdier than toggle bolts to attach the table? I just picked up one of these drill presses and haven't been able to find pictures of anything other than your idea with the toggle bolts. I was thinking of just getting some short 1/4"-20 type bolts with some big washer and putting them in the metal working table t-tracks and then countersinking some nuts in my wood table - is this not a good idea for some reason?

Thanks,

David


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I really need to build one of these soon...


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## RogerC (Oct 15, 2012)

On my DP table, instead of using T-tracks, I simply routed some slots into the table and use standard carriage bolts to hold the fence in place. This is nice because you don't have to worry about chips clogging up the tracks.

The table is made from a salvaged restaurant table top (1 1/4" thick)


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## peridigm (Dec 29, 2014)

I'm not completely finished with my table but decided to post anyway. The only thing of value is the t-track. I ended up raising the table from the drill press table using scrap 2x4 instead of cutting out the back right for clearance for the crank. I used screws to hold the hardboard so I didn't have to fuss with glue to replace it when it starts to look like Swiss cheese. Se thumb screws on the bottom make it easily removable.


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