# R4512 Trunion adjustment!



## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

Im not liking this saw too much right now!
am working on a segmented bowl (trying to anyway) and noticed yet again that the blade is out of square. 

This is giving me issues. Obviously It wasnt done properly the first time I attempted it or it got out of square somehow.

but now Im trying to square it up once again and I just cant get it right! does anyone know any good tricks with this?
I loosen 3 of the bolts and slightly loosen the last. then align it using a block of wood clamped to the miter gauge. every time I start to tighten the first bolt after aligning it, and it goes right out of square. what am I doing wrong? or is this what i get for trying to save a few bucks?


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

out of square to what? The miter gauge or the fence? Maybe you can adjust the other thing to get it where you want it. Another option - especially good for all those little pieces that go into a segmented bowl, is to make a little sled that rides in your miter gauge slots. You move the back piece that holds the stock until it's square to the blade, and then you screw/glue it down. Google "tablesaw crosscut sled" and you'll get the idea. I use a small one I made, not out of concern for squareness but just because I'm fond of my fingers and wanted to keep them while cutting real small stuff.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*square?*



slicksqueegie said:


> Im not liking this saw too much right now!
> am working on a segmented bowl (trying to anyway) and noticed yet again that the blade is out of square.
> 
> This is giving me issues. Obviously It wasnt done properly the first time I attempted it or it got out of square somehow.
> ...


blade is parallel to the slots, not square..... 
blade square, 90 degrees, to the table and fence...:thumbsup:
miter gauge square, 90 degrees, to the blade and slots...:yes:

tighten 1 bolt, loosen 3. adjust to pivot on 1 in the right direction.
to get parallel. gradually, slowly tighten the remaining 3. :icon_smile: bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

This should solve your problem.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html












 







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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

woodnthings said:


> it's parallel to the slots, not square.....
> blade square to the table and fence...:thumbsup:
> miter gauge square to the blade and slots...:yes:
> 
> ...


Thanks Cman,
I just can't get it right. I don't get it. It's still off! I notice at least 1/32" gap across a 3" board from one end to the other. That's way off!


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK*

Either you've got the blade parallel to the slots or not. Which is it?
Are you saying you can't do that? What method are you using to check the blade to slot measurement...there are several, from dial indicators to tri-squares set against the blade from the slot.

A "gap" of 1/32" front to back?

Do you mean a ripped board has a difference in width of 1/32" and if so, over what length? You MUST start with a perfectly straight board, since the table saw only gives back what it gets to start with...slight curves or straights. 

It the fence parallel to the miter slot?

You've got to get the blade right first, then the fence and then you're good to go.  bill

Check this out:
http://newwoodworker.com/dilindjiguse.html

http://www.woodnet.net/tips/table-saw/checking-table-saw-blade-alignment/


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Replace the washers on the trunnion bolts. Use garage door washers because they are hardened, less likely to deform and scratch up a burr. 

As a general rule, the trunnion bolt washers should be changed every time that adjustments are made.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

rrich said:


> Replace the washers on the trunnion bolts. Use garage door washers because they are hardened, less likely to deform and scratch up a burr.
> 
> As a general rule, the trunnion bolt washers should be changed every time that adjustments are made.


Good advice. While you're at it, you might want to check the mating surfaces between the trunnion brackets and table top for burrs. Burrs and bent washers can make good alignment difficult.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*star washers?*



rrich said:


> Replace the washers on the trunnion bolts. Use garage door washers because they are hardened, less likely to deform and scratch up a burr.
> 
> As a general rule, the trunnion bolt washers should be changed every time that adjustments are made.



rrich, I have yet to find a flat washer under a trunnion bolt. Do you mean star washers?
I don't know what a garage door washer is. This?


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Agree with above washer suspect.May not be the problem,but by replacing stamped dime-store washers with machined....you've made a serious upgrade and at least eliminated that potential movement.Good luck,take your time,be patient,yadayada.BW


PS.machined washers are avail through industrial bolt suppliers.


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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

garage door washers?
I googled it but didnt find anything either. 

I think I finally got it. 
again. 
This thing was a PITA! My arm is all cut up and bruised from reaching into tight spots in there! 
about the garage door washers.
where do I get them? and you stated that I should replace them after an adjustment? I hoped I would never have to adjust it again. but If its gonna make things easier in the long run Ill disassemble it, check for burrs, replace the washers and thread lock the stuff down.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

slicksqueegie said:


> garage door washers?
> I googled it but didnt find anything either.


I think "fender washers" is what was referred to as garage door washers.

You passed off PALS as a solution. They do work, and will solve the problem.












 







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## slicksqueegie (Feb 9, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> You passed off PALS as a solution. They do work, and will solve the problem.


no. I ordered a set last night. Thanks BTW.
Im gonna get a set of those washers as well as some thread loc! I dont want to do it again after that though! Thats why im getting everything in order before I disassemble it again.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*in my experience fender washers are like this*

Amazon.com: Large OD Fender Washer, Low Carbon Steel, Zinc-Plated, Round Shape, USA Made, 17/32" ID, 2" OD, 0.051" Thick (Pack of 50): Industrial & Scientific

 
 

Basically large diameter washers with a relatively small hole used to provide greater surface area around the bolt...reinforcement more or less. In my experience there is very little room on the trunnion mounts for a even a flat washer because of the castings being so close to the holes.
There is no reason a star washer, usually the original equipment in my experience , won't do the job. Any flat washer would require machined surfaces to avoid shifting under the tightening pressure. 
This really isn't rocket science, just requires patience, and slowly tightening and rechecking at each step. I have rarely got it right on the first attempt. :no: bill


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## daviddoria (Dec 18, 2007)

slicksqueegie - did you get the PALS installed? I've read elsewhere that you have to do some machining on the trunions for the PALS to fit the R4512 - was this the case?


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

I like Bill's washer the best. While not flat by any means, it's certainly round in the right places! :thumbsup:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Not a pretty as Bill's suggestion but I think this is what Rich is mentioning, notice how thick they are:
https://www.garagedoorstuff.com/product/washer-flat-38-x-1-x-06-fastener/


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*slick has slipped off the forum...*



daviddoria said:


> slicksqueegie - did you get the PALS installed? I've read elsewhere that you have to do some machining on the trunions for the PALS to fit the R4512 - was this the case?


His last post was 3-30-2012. :blink:


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