# Dado's



## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

I cut a few dado's on the ts but I used the miter on a piece 36" long by 12" cutting across the 12.The vibration of the saw made for slippage of the board on the miter of about 1/8 ".I have a small board screwed to the miter making it about 18' long.Anyne know of a way to keep it from doing that??Do ya clamp the board or? Itchy /Gary P.S.I have a feeling that using the fence in conjnuction with the miter would be kickbacktime correct?


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## user4178 (Apr 18, 2008)

Itchy Brother said:


> I cut a few dado's on the ts but I used the miter on a piece 36" long by 12" cutting across the 12.The vibration of the saw made for slippage of the board on the miter of about 1/8 ".I have a small board screwed to the miter making it about 18' long.Anyne know of a way to keep it from doing that??Do ya clamp the board or? Itchy /Gary P.S.I have a feeling that using the fence in conjnuction with the miter would be kickbacktime correct?


This is why I don't like crosscuting on the tablesaw if I don't have too. But there are ways to do it if you don't have a slideing mitersaw for wide boards. First you may want to replace your V-belt with a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link V-belt to reduce the vibration if you have a Contractors saw. You can use a clamp attachment on your existing miter gauge if the manufacturer of your saw sells them, or you can buy a aftermarket miter gauge with clamp, or you can build a sled with a clamp, or you can buy a slideing table for your saw that has a clamp. Useing the fence in conjnuction with the miter gauge would NOT be recommended. Useing a straight edge and a router is another option.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Woodchuck1957 said:


> This is why I don't like crosscuting on the tablesaw if I don't have too. But there are ways to do it if you don't have a slideing mitersaw for wide boards. First you may want to replace your V-belt with a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link V-belt to reduce the vibration if you have a Contractors saw. You can use a clamp attachment on your existing miter gauge if the manufacturer of your saw sells them, or you can buy a aftermarket miter gauge with clamp, or you can build a sled with a clamp, or you can buy a slideing table for your saw that has a clamp. Useing the fence in conjnuction with the miter gauge would NOT be recommended. Useing a straight edge and a router is another option.



That about covers it. I would go with a router and a straight edge


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

You can use a stop block clamped to the crosscut fence, and/or some self adhesive sandpaper will also help prevent slipping.


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## johnp (Nov 24, 2008)

quote the woodchuck on this one.. your about a nat's hair away from having boards fly through the shop wall... a better fence or a jig will help. but procede with caution.. in my shop i have one saftey rule.. do not get blood on my hardwood... your getting to close to breaking rule one


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## Nilt (Nov 24, 2008)

knotscott said:


> You can use a stop block clamped to the crosscut fence, and/or some self adhesive sandpaper will also help prevent slipping.


That's what I was thinking. I've seen Nahm use stop blocks quite a bit. As a newbie myself, I don't know if that's standard or just a Nahm-ism.


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## red (Sep 30, 2008)

johnp said:


> in my shop i have one saftey rule.. do not get blood on my hardwood... your getting to close to breaking rule one


 
I hope you have a sign with this rule hanging in the shop. It's great. Red


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

What kind of blade are you using? Sounds like it could be part of the problem.
You need to use a very good : Freud,Amana,Cmt, Forrest etc, well balanced fine tooth to start with.
Make yourself a crosscutting sled, with push clamps to hold it. After that should be really easy and simple cuts


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Not knowing what TS you are running, I have to go with MY experience with my wierd little Ryobi TS...

I have the miter clamps for the TS, and I simply clamp the work piece to the sliding miter table and make my cuts nice and slow. Zero slippage.

A slot equipped TS would require a different approach Depending on how wide of a piece you are cutting your dado in, you might want to ride against the rip fence instead of using the miter gauge / fence...

What concerns me more than that, is the vibration thing. My little $250.00 job site saw runs nice and smooth. I have friends cutting Dadoes with the Skilsaw tablesaw and those run smooth. What gives? Arbor problem maybe? You should not get any real noticable vibration cutting dadoes cross grain....


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