# First Bowl



## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

Nothing incredible...did one yesterday had a lot better curve..this one is straight..one yesterday my mounting screws snapped off in it and im not about to try catching one with my chisels. So here is my first completed bowl.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Looks good for a first or second bowl. :thumbsup:

FYI, you can also mount to a faceplate by screwing a flat piece of wood to the faceplate, then glue the bowl blank to the faceplate wood with normal Titebond glue and a piece of paper the diameter of the bowl blank.

Glue both sides of the paper, allow the glue to set and you will be surprised how strong this joint is for turning.

After you have finished turning, a sharp whack with a mallet and the paper will split, then all you have to do is to clean off the remaining paper/glue as you finish turning the bottom of the bowl.


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

Dave Paine said:


> Looks good for a first or second bowl. :thumbsup:
> 
> FYI, you can also mount to a faceplate by screwing a flat piece of wood to the faceplate, then glue the bowl blank to the faceplate wood with normal Titebond glue and a piece of paper the diameter of the bowl blank.
> 
> ...


Thanks..so if a good whack will knock it free...a bad catch would more than likely do the same?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

rtindell said:


> Thanks..so if a good whack will knock it free...a bad catch would more than likely do the same?


A really bad catch. I have had my share of catch's while using the paper joint, but so far not bad enough to break the joint.

I would rather break the paper than the wood.


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

Dave Paine said:


> I would rather break the paper than the wood.


Good point.


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

looks nice, especially for a first


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

guglipm63 said:


> looks nice, especially for a first


Thanks..was a learning experience...haha


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## cuerodoc (Jan 27, 2012)

Just curious,what kind of screw are you using?
Wood screws generallya aren't strong enough, and the taper is problem in and of itself. I use machine screws- hex head so easy on/off, plus they're pretty much the same diameter except at the tip. Haven't had one snap yet & I turn a lot of big stuff.
Dave H


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

cuerodoc said:


> Just curious,what kind of screw are you using?
> Wood screws generallya aren't strong enough, and the taper is problem in and of itself. I use machine screws- hex head so easy on/off, plus they're pretty much the same diameter except at the tip. Haven't had one snap yet & I turn a lot of big stuff.
> Dave H


Yeah it was just whatever cheap wood screws i had..read not to use drywall screws and that wood screws would work...well 2 of the 4 broke off in it..dug one out..that other isnt wanting to come out so i tossed it...









Bums me out..bottom shape was looking good on that one.

So machine screws hold a lot better? may have to go find some


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

very nice for a first bowl :thumbsup:


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks Robert.


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## khowald (Nov 8, 2012)

:icon_smile:Nice job, keep after it. It is very addictive...pretty soon you won't even care that the "fun police" (read wife) is not talking to you!:sweatdrop::bangin:


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

khowald said:


> :icon_smile:Nice job, keep after it. It is very addictive...pretty soon you won't even care that the "fun police" (read wife) is not talking to you!:sweatdrop::bangin:


Haha..yeah..i have been playing around with the lathe for a week and she is already rolling her eyes...its all good she gets new dishes..lol


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## keith long (Jan 25, 2013)

Nice first bowl, I use sheet metal screws and they are easy in and easy back out.


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## bigcouger (Jan 4, 2012)

Nice bowls keep at it an practice


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## MagGeorge (Jul 5, 2012)

Looks great for a first bowl, has very nice shape and thickness. The Mrs. will be wanting more for the kitchen. Got to make more.


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

Thank you. I have been messing around with making more...attempt 2 i found a big inclusion/void in it when i started roughing it out. Turned out ok i think.


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

Second attempt nice also. Inclusion = character


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

guglipm63 said:


> Second attempt nice also. Inclusion = character


Thanks...Thats what i said when i got started..well it will either give it character or it will catch and blow up at me...haha


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## pvechart (Dec 14, 2011)

Your first bowl looks just like my first bowl with the straight sides! The second one has a little more curve to it and as you do more you will develop just the right forms...keep up the good work.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Nice work. Has the big bitten!


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks guys....yeah Dave this is addictive.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

rtindell said:


> Thanks guys....yeah Dave this is addictive.


Good good, that means we'll be seeing more.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

rtindell said:


> Yeah it was just whatever cheap wood screws i had..read not to use drywall screws and that wood screws would work...well 2 of the 4 broke off in it..dug one out..that other isnt wanting to come out so i tossed it...
> 
> View attachment 71703
> 
> ...


 
Thats a good looking bowl there , nice work indeed .
Give the base a good sand and polish , get those metal screws shining , make a feature of them and only we will know how they really got to stay in there :thumbsup:


Yep , machine screws , and use screws that are tight , almost threaded as it were , in the faceplate holes,
The 'G' forces when the lathe starts up can be enough to shunt screws that are sloppy in the hole and weaken them and the snapping can soon follow.
The same forces will overtighten faceplates and chucks that are loose or merely finger tightened onto the threaded spindle . 
No tool is needed , but give it a good strong wrench , with both hands. It should come off the same way .

Jock


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

Finally turned one that i think turned out awesome....i.wanted to see how thin i could go on it..how good my control was....too bad its green and more than likely going to crack in half....we will see what happens...but for now....im proud of this one..  





























Any tips on how i can prevent it from being scrap would be great..i have it sitting in a bag of shavings right now...going to oil it up every day or so...


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

rtindell said:


> Finally turned one that i think turned out awesome....i.wanted to see how thin i could go on it..how good my control was....too bad its green and more than likely going to crack in half....we will see what happens...but for now....im proud of this one..
> 
> Any tips on how i can prevent it from being scrap would be great..i have it sitting in a bag of shavings right now...going to oil it up every day or so...


others may have better ideas but I have used Danish oil on mine at this stage. is seems to slow down the drying and reduce cracking. it will warp, but after it has warped I dress the bottom at a disc sander so it sits flat.


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

guglipm63 said:


> others may have better ideas but I have used Danish oil on mine at this stage. is seems to slow down the drying and reduce cracking. it will warp, but after it has warped I dress the bottom at a disc sander so it sits flat.


Beautiful..a little warping is ok..just dont need it to crack..thank you!


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Thats a very fine bowl , how big is it ? 

Before you seal it up with danish oil you could saturate it with mineral oil and keep doing so until it has finished moving . 
With luck , as well as slowing down the seasoning rate , the oil will replace the moisture in the wood , reduce the shrinkage , and prevent cracking .


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## rtindell (Apr 8, 2013)

Manuka Jock said:


> Thats a very fine bowl , how big is it ?
> 
> Before you seal it up with danish oil you could saturate it with mineral oil and keep doing so until it has finished moving .
> With luck , as well as slowing down the seasoning rate , the oil will replace the moisture in the wood , reduce the shrinkage , and prevent cracking .


Its about 7.5"x2.5" so just soak it until wont take any more?


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Manuka Jock said:


> Thats a very fine bowl , how big is it ?
> 
> Before you seal it up with danish oil you could saturate it with mineral oil and keep doing so until it has finished moving .
> With luck , as well as slowing down the seasoning rate , the oil will replace the moisture in the wood , reduce the shrinkage , and prevent cracking .


Mineral oil, is that turps?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

DaveTTC said:


> Mineral oil, is that turps?


No, not sure of the name in Australia. This is the Wiki definition

"A *mineral oil* is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 range from a non-vegetable (mineral) source, particularly a distillate of petroleum.[1] The name _mineral oil_ by itself is imprecise, having been used to label many specific oils over the past few centuries. Other names, similarly imprecise, include white oil, liquid paraffin, and liquid petroleum. Baby oil refers to a perfumed mineral oil."


Clear oil, almost no odour, light weight. Perfume is added then it is sold as Baby Oil in many places.

Mineral oil is one of the finishes used for cutting boards.

You may be thinking about Mineral Spirits, which is solvent. Not the same as turpentine but they are both used as solvents.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> No, not sure of the name in Australia. This is the Wiki definition
> 
> "A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 range from a non-vegetable (mineral) source, particularly a distillate of petroleum.[1] The name mineral oil by itself is imprecise, having been used to label many specific oils over the past few centuries. Other names, similarly imprecise, include white oil, liquid paraffin, and liquid petroleum. Baby oil refers to a perfumed mineral oil."
> 
> ...


I might google methylated spirits (metho) and see if that comes under that category. I'm guessing that might be what you call mineral spirits. Can you use Mineral spirits? I know alcoholics used to use it mixed with cordial. Different purpose - then again - infuse it, replace other liquids and soak in it.

Wow the first link took me back 1/4 of a century back to my high school days

Won't be drinking liquid paraffin in a hurry


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

DaveTTC said:


> I might google methylated spirits (metho) and see if that comes under that category. I'm guessing that might be what you call mineral spirits. Can you use Mineral spirits? I know alcoholics used to use it mixed with cordial. Different purpose - then again - infuse it, replace other liquids and soak in it.


Methylated spirits is the name in the UK for what is called Denatured Alcohol (DNA) in the US. Both contain methyl alcohol to make the product not drinkable and so there is no alcohol tax applied.

Sad to say in the UK a number of down-and-outs may drink methylated spirits. The methyl alcohol does a lot of damage.

In the US, there are cheap wines which are sold in bulk containers. Same buzz but not as much immediate damage.

The US mineral spirits does not contain any alcohol. Just a light distillate solvent. I do not know where the name came from.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Dave

Does DNA / metho do the same as a mineral oil (is it in the range of mineral oil you mentioned earlier)





Manuka Jock said:


> Thats a very fine bowl , how big is it ?
> 
> Before you seal it up with danish oil you could saturate it with mineral oil and keep doing so until it has finished moving .
> With luck , as well as slowing down the seasoning rate , the oil will replace the moisture in the wood , reduce the shrinkage , and prevent cracking .


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

DaveTTC said:


> Dave
> 
> Does DNA / metho do the same as a mineral oil (is it in the range of mineral oil you mentioned earlier)


No DNA/Methylated spirits is alcohol which is a solvent so evapourates.

Mineral oil will soak into the grain of the wood. It will eventually dry out and need to be replenished.

I see a number of cutting board products which are a combination of mineral oil and e.g., beeswax.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

rtindell said:


> Its about 7.5"x2.5" so just soak it until wont take any more?


Yes , that will do it . Leave it in there for a while , and then let it drain dry . keep an eye on it , and don't be shy about doing it again .
When it is stable , polish it by hand with a cloth . 

If by chance it does crack , CA glue it and emery paper sand it .


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

DaveTTC said:


> Mineral oil, is that turps?


 As stated above , its' a petroleum by-product 
Also called paraffin oil here. Paraffin as in paraffin wax candles ,
I get it from the Rural Feed supply places . Farmers use it on their animal stock , as a laxative and the like apparently.

Town Veterinarians have it too , but at twice the price .


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