# Staining curly maple



## lawrence (Nov 14, 2009)

went to a little hardware store today and and come to find out they sell pretty decent SAS lumber. I was digging through maple for a counter top and found a few 1"x6"x10' s with a real nice curl....at 2.70 a bdft I just couldnt let them sit there collecting dust.

Im not one who use much else but BLO and poly, but I really would like this to pop, any advice on a finish? will probably accent with black walnut


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## mn pete (Dec 10, 2010)

Marc, over at the Wood Whisperer, did a video a while back on making the grain in Maple pop with some dye. It looked pretty easy.


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## Ozrob (Apr 21, 2008)

I know its Birds eye not Curly, but is this the sort of pop you want? This was done using Teak Oil and wax afterwards.


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## bentwood (Jan 26, 2012)

I wouldn't use any kind of stain on curly maple. To look so great in the raw, figered maple is in the top 5 worst candidates for staining.
The old guard will probably tell you what I suggest will rot the boards but please try it on a piece then go through all the rig-a-maroar and prep with products they swear by and decide for your self.
Use the BLO and poly since you are comfortable with them.
If the surface is already 220 grit smooth or better,blow or brush any dust off then a quick wipe with paint thiner reccomended for your poly. Drip BLO onto the board and sand with 400 wet/dry keeping surface saturated with BLO. Wipe away the slury left by the sanding. You can move to clean up or repeat with 600 w/d and plenty of Blo to get a tiny bit additional highlites. Use cleah cotton cloth and BLO to rub and clean the surface. As I'm sure you already know,the oil needs to dry before appling the poly. 
There are better but not by much and nothing as fool proof,inexpensive and simple. Most important,nice material is not best to try out new stuff on.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I second dye if you want to put a color on the board.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Lawrence, check this out. Does this look like a bad candidate for staining? Ok it's actually dye, but I think this look is amazing. Check out the rest of the site for other color ideas.
http://www.prsguitars.com/privatestock/gallery/1652.php


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## diywoodworker (Jul 27, 2011)

from http://www.swillisforge.com/

This form of staining the wood is using an acid with steel wool dissolved, then putting the solution onto the wood, lightly scorching the surface and sanding it off. 

More info can be found here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Acid-fuming-curly-maple?p=6027387#post6027387


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## Matt tennessen (Jan 23, 2011)

diywoodworker said:


> from http://www.swillisforge.com/
> 
> This form of staining the wood is using an acid with steel wool dissolved, then putting the solution onto the wood, lightly scorching the surface and sanding it off.
> 
> More info can be found here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/586246-Acid-fuming-curly-maple?p=6027387#post6027387


Wow, I've never seen that before. How consistent do you think one could do that over a larger flat surface?


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## diywoodworker (Jul 27, 2011)

Matt tennessen said:


> Wow, I've never seen that before. How consistent do you think one could do that over a larger flat surface?


I'm really not sure, but I would really love to see it tried. Conveniently, I do have a leftover 11"x11" piece of curly maple from my jewelry box that I can try this technique. 

I'll have to pick up some acid and mix some up, but I can try it out and post some pictures within a few days


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## diywoodworker (Jul 27, 2011)

I just tried out the acid mixture. I dissolved the steel wool into the acid, then diluted it afterwards, so the dissolving only took a few hours. (Then I transferred it into the water container).

Followed the steps by wiping a light coat of the mixture onto the wood, then I used a heat gun to dry and blacken the mixture. I think I scorched the wood a bit on the right side, but other than that, the whole piece was very consistent (with the not smoothest finish). Next, I used a bit of baking soda/water solution to neutralize any acid left. Then I put a coat of danish oil onto the surface.


Unfortunately, the wood did warp, and I do not know if it was because I dried it too quickly, or something, but it is a pretty bad warp over the 11" span.

Unfinished piece of maple: 









Finished piece: 









Warp of the wood:


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## lawrence (Nov 14, 2009)

that does strike me as a nice natural looking finish. the shade differences are flowing and well toned. almost looks like walnut.


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

diywoodworker said:


> I just tried out the acid mixture. I dissolved the steel wool into the acid, then diluted it afterwards, so the dissolving only took a few hours. (Then I transferred it into the water container).
> 
> Followed the steps by wiping a light coat of the mixture onto the wood, then I used a heat gun to dry and blacken the mixture. I think I scorched the wood a bit on the right side, but other than that, the whole piece was very consistent (with the not smoothest finish). Next, I used a bit of baking soda/water solution to neutralize any acid left. Then I put a coat of danish oil onto the surface.
> 
> ...


Probably need to do both sides.


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## diywoodworker (Jul 27, 2011)

GoIrish said:


> Probably need to do both sides.


Thanks for the tip. It probably doesn't help I used a 1/2" piece of wood that was not quartersawn at all.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

diywoodworker said:


> Thanks for the tip. It probably doesn't help I used a 1/2" piece of wood that was not quartersawn at all.


There is another method that's been around for over a century, that is to use a weak solution of Ferrous sulfate [iron II sulfate] to darken the interlocking grain in figured woods, especially maples/sycamores. It's pretty cheap and you can get it in small volumes. with a very weak solution it will leave the surface the same color, with a stronger solution it can and will turn the wood a little grey. If a pre stain of tannic acid is applied first and dried it will turn differing shades of black or dark grey depending on its strength of formula. just a suggestion. :yes:


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## lawrence (Nov 14, 2009)

diywoodworker.....how does the 3D effect look? can you see it as "ripples"?


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## diywoodworker (Jul 27, 2011)

lawrence said:


> diywoodworker.....how does the 3D effect look? can you see it as "ripples"?


It might just be this piece of wood that I used, but the 3d effect isn't super noticeable. However, the other side of the wood (unfinished) has about the same characteristics. I would guess if you use a really nice 3d piece of wood, you would see the movement from chatoyancy. The dark stained look between the ripples does seem to add an extra dimension instead of a flat surface though.


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