# Router Planing



## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

I completely understand the concept of this. ive made the jig and done it several times.

Say I wanted to use this bit: http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surfa..._UL160_SR157,160_&refRID=0WZEK51G87WDZ6D4KCXC

What kind of router would it take to have enough guts to run that bit. obviously taking light passes. would a regular old skil router have the stones?


----------



## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Take a light enough pass and you could spin the bit by hand. Power required isn't dependant so much on the size of the bit, its more limited by the amount you're cutting. Heck, if you took light enough passes I'd be willing to bet that you could cut a raised panel with a trim router, though that'd take some stones. 

Tl:dr- assuming your soil router in in the 1-2hp range you shouldn't have any issues provided you keep the cut depth under, say, 1/16 or so, but you should do that anyway for a better finish


----------



## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

I kinda didn't figure it would be. but wanted the opinions of others.


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Did you scroll down to the reviews, one of them mentions a 2HP router.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*there are 3 sizes listed*

The one posted is 2 3/4", there's a 2" and a 1 1/2" so you can match the size to your routers HP. 

I would use a 3 HP on the 2 3/4", a 2 HP on the 2" and a 1 1/2 HP should work on the 1 1/2" size. Sometimes bigger is not always better. :no:

I suspect a 1 HP router would be bit underpowered for this operation unless a 1" bit was used.


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> The one posted is 2 3/4", there's a 2" and a 1 1/2" so you can match the size to your routers HP.
> 
> I would use a 3 HP on the 2 3/4", a 2 HP on the 2" and a 1 1/2 HP should work on the 1 1/2" size. Sometimes bigger is not always better. :no:
> 
> I suspect a 1 HP router would be bit underpowered for this operation unless a 1" bit was used.


+ 1, a bit that size will take some HP. A word of caution, that bit will hurt you if you don't have the wood clamped down or the wood is heavy enough not to get slung if the bit grabs. The router will need to be in a captive guide or it will get away with you quicker than you can imagine, that is not a safe bit to use freehanded.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Too big for the base of most routers.

Al


----------



## fenestrane (Mar 10, 2015)

How is your planing accuracy? I don't seem to be getting a plat surface. Variation in thickness from one pass to another could be as bad as 0.5mm. Would you mind posting a picture of your jig? I will post mine, but I have in my other house now.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I hope your not planning on spinning that big bit at 23,000 rpm.
You will want to slow the router speed down a lot, and I believe most routers will lose power when slowed down.
I would get a smaller bit. 1 1/2" max ?
I would look at the chart and see what width can be run at high speed, and get the largest.


----------



## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

I agree with BigJim---that is a scary bit for hand holding---a variable speed router would also be wise-
You might want to buy the smaller version first---if you can control the smaller one--then consider moving up to that big boy.

I do not have the nerve to try that one------the thought of a machine binding up and getting thrown gives me the willies---


----------



## Tman1 (Jan 14, 2013)

fenestrane said:


> How is your planing accuracy? I don't seem to be getting a plat surface. Variation in thickness from one pass to another could be as bad as 0.5mm. Would you mind posting a picture of your jig? I will post mine, but I have in my other house now.


I had the same issue with my jig. It means the face of the router bit is not parallel with your rails. Probably because the faces of your sled base are not quite parallel or your arbor is not quite perpendicular to your router base. I put shims between the sled and my rails on the low side of the cut. 

You also have to make sure your base is stiff enough that it doesn't sag under the weight of your router and your downward force on the router. If you would like more help on your issue, you should probably start a new thread. 

I think the concerns with properly sizing the bit to the router have already been well covered.


----------



## sheperd80 (Nov 12, 2013)

I havent used that bit but I have been using an Amana 1-3/4 planing bit in a Dewalt plunge router. It works quite well but I wouldnt want to go any larger in a handheld router. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


----------

