# Wife happened upon some cedar...now what?



## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

My wife came across some freshly cut cedar. Unfortunately she didn't get the chance to cut it herself, or it might have been cut into better sized logs, but we won't look gift wood in the mouth. There's some pretty decent diameter pieces in there towards the bottom.

















I've not milled up any logs yet except some black locust, and that went spectacularly bad....so I'm looking for some confidence building measures here.

Do I need to paint the ends of these immediately? I know with oak, it begins checking about as soon as you cut it down. It's basically the difference between painting it tonight or tomorrow, that's all. If it can wait for tomorrow, then I'm happy to let it wait.

I've heard that air drying before kiln drying is a good plan to avoid warping (looks like I'll get to put Darren's kiln plans to the test after all, and not just for killing bugs). With winter almost here, does it matter if they air dry over winter outside (under a roof, but not sheltered otherwise)?

I was planning on using my chainsaw mill (haven't tried the thing at all yet) for the longer logs, and then for the shorter more manageable ones, I'd use my 12" Grizzly bandsaw.

Is there a thickness I should target for cedar? I know it's a soft wood, so is 1/2" about a minimum? Is 1" a good standard size out of these things? Is a 2" slab even useful for much?

Help is appreciated. I'm glad to get it, as we have basically no cedar onhand. I know I won't get to use it for months, but still. Maybe to line some boxes some day?

Garage sure smells good now.


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## EHCRain (Oct 24, 2010)

Many years ago my grandfather milled some cedar down to 1/4 to use as lining for closets. He air dried it in a barn for many years. Hope that helps a little.


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I've never used kiln dried cedar. All ive ever used was air dried. Never had a problem with it. The thinnest I've ever planed it was about 1/8 thickness. I love working with cedar. It is very "user friendly".


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I can make it thinner later for lining things (makes me sad I missed out on that drum sander last auction I went to), but what is a good target thickness for milling it from the logs?

Should I just plan to air dry this stuff then? Is kiln dried cedar not a good idea?


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I'm not saying its a bad idea. I've just never done it, I've built projects soon after having it sawn into lumber. The thinnest I've ever had it sawn was 4/4. But that is because I was wanting 3/4 material for cedar chests, wall paneling, etc. I'm sure it could be sawn thinner, I've just never done it personally. Good luck and have fun experimenting. Cedar is a pretty stable wood IMO.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, step 1 is complete...all of the pieces are a lovely shade of blue now. It's certainly the step in the process that all of my kids enjoy. They ended up almost as blue.


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## cuerodoc (Jan 27, 2012)

I think air drying is just fine. I've cut and used some cedar here and had no problems, great grain and takes a finish nicely. Made some frames and turned some bowls--wish all wood turned that easy. It does check some, sealing is good idea. I also used my chainsaw to get the pieces I wanted.


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## scsmith42 (Jan 24, 2011)

Typically the heartwood of eastern red cedar is rot and insect resistant, but the sapwood is not.

ERC is frequently air dried, and it dries very rapidly. 4/4 ERC will dry down to 15% in arouncd 45 days or so.

Typically it can be used for outdoor furniture (the heartwood portion), as well as cedar chests and lining closets.

For outdoor furniture, I would mill some at 4/4, 6/4, and 8/4. For indoor projects, 4/4 or 5/4 should suffice (and the 5/4 can be resawn into 1/2" thick boards).


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

If you are using the ERC outdoors, you can saw it one day and use it the next although it is always better to let it reach EMC first. If using indoors, air dry for 6 weeks and then bring it indoors for another couple of weeks before working.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Unfortunatley, I don't think far enough ahead to know what I want to do with stuff. I just know it's darn pretty and smells so nice. :thumbsup:

I plan to cut the smaller pieces into cookies, I guess for a massive amount of drink coasters. Is there some good way to dry those so they don't crack? Normally I'd seal end grain, but a cookie is all end grain. Do I just cut them and let them sit?


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## rayking49 (Nov 6, 2011)

I've never cut them into cookies. I say try it and see.


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## dognobbler (Sep 18, 2012)

Cut them about 3/4 inch thick and sand well. If fairly dry will soak up minwax gloss varnish(the gray tin) but doesn't shine up as it should.


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## bikeshooter (Nov 5, 2010)

I have put quite a bit of erc through one of Darrens h/d style kilns. Easy to do and not much cupping, warping etc. I read somewhere on this site that kiln drying is a good idea in order to remove some natural oils as well as moisture. The reason to remove the oil is to reduce the level of discoloring if exposed to sunlight.

I suggest a dust mask when working erc. ERC dust irritates my sinus to the point of bleeding.


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