# Refinishing Maple Cabinets



## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Hello All

In our kitchen we have cabinets which I believe are made of Western Maple. They are finished with a low gloss clear finish. The lower cabinets have become badly water spotted over the years which makes me think that the finish is shellac. As the cabinets are very well made, and attractive, I would like to refinish the cabinets with a satin varathane or polyurethane. The doors are easy to remove. 
What suggestions do you have for the best way to remove the old finish?
Also, as the old finish has badly water spotted am I correct in assuming that the finish is shellac, or are there other products that also water spot?
Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Gerry:smile:


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## Nancy Laird (May 7, 2007)

Gerry, just a suggestion: rough up the existing finish with some 220 grit, then spray with about three coats of lacquer. My own kitchen cabinets are lacquered, have been in place for about 6 years, and are still as pristine as the day they were installed. I'm not a finishing expert, so I am presuming that lacquer can go on top of shellac (if that's what is on them now). In any event, I believe that lacquer would be the way to go. And with lacquer, any little nicks or scratches can be repaired easily, as lacquer "burns in" and doesn't require a complete refinish like other methods.

Nancy


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

First try alcohol,then lacquer thinner and if neither do the job a chemical stripper.If it were me I would apply a good non-polyurethane varnish.

Jerry


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Nancy Laird said:


> Gerry, just a suggestion: rough up the existing finish with some 220 grit, then spray with about three coats of lacquer. My own kitchen cabinets are lacquered, have been in place for about 6 years, and are still as pristine as the day they were installed. I'm not a finishing expert, so I am presuming that lacquer can go on top of shellac (if that's what is on them now). In any event, I believe that lacquer would be the way to go. And with lacquer, any little nicks or scratches can be repaired easily, as lacquer "burns in" and doesn't require a complete refinish like other methods.
> 
> Nancy


Thanks for the input Nancy. I am assuming that I will have to remove the old finish entirely to get rid of the water spotting. Or, will it disappear with the application of the lacquer?

Gerry


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

jerry said:


> First try alcohol,then lacquer thinner and if neither do the job a chemical stripper.If it were me I would apply a good non-polyurethane varnish.
> 
> Jerry


Thanks Jerry

You would go with the Varathane then, as opposed to polyurethane. What is the disadvantage with poly?
So far I have only used polyurethane for exterior projects[front door] that I don't want to have to deal with again for a long time.

Gerry


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## Nancy Laird (May 7, 2007)

Gerry KIERNAN said:


> Thanks for the input Nancy. I am assuming that I will have to remove the old finish entirely to get rid of the water spotting. Or, will it disappear with the application of the lacquer?
> 
> Gerry


Depends....I'd try just sanding it first to see if the water spots are just in the finish or if the underlying wood is damaged. If it's just the finish, the spots should sand off. If the wood is spotted, then you would probably have to remove all of the finish and sand the doors down to bare wood. But IMHO, lacquer is still the way to go.


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

It would appear that the water spotting is only in or on the finish, and not into the wood. I will give the light sanding a try and see how it goes.

Thanks Nancy.

As I haven't worked with lacquer on wood do you have any suggestions as to brand etc.? I was thinking of trying it with my electric sprayer to see how that goes.

Gerry


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