# Monastic Casket



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

My religious community has for years been using a cheap coffin that was donated by the local funeral home for the burial of our monks. I decided to use my talents to create something a little more dignified. I was taught this design by the monks of Blue Cloud Abbey (Marvin, SD) - I made a few modifications to it though.


----------



## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

I would be happy to make my final journey in one of these.
In UK, has been pressure to use 'green' caskets. A celebrity used a willow weave casket.
johnep


----------



## RHarkins (Mar 6, 2009)

Just curious, what do you figure your cost of materials was?
Are these plans available for anyone to use?
Ron H


----------



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

*Costs and Plans*

I suppose when all was said and done it probably cost $550 - $600. Which when you think about the cost of even a cheap casket being a couple of thousand dollars, it makes a lot of sense.
As to plans, its basically the pattern for the bottom and then everything gets built around the base. I do have a materials list, but wouldn't be able to post that until I get back home in about 3 weeks.


----------



## trident98 (Mar 7, 2009)

I am a master carpenter and rocking chair maker. For years I have been saying I'm going to build my casket just like they did in the old west, maybe use black walnut. I had to buy a casket for my mothers buriel this past year and won't pay those prices again. The funeral business is a racket. I can make one and use it for a coffee table or after seeing the other posts, stand it on end and use it for a wine rack. Now there is an idea.


----------



## Mike Gager (Jan 11, 2009)

do cemetaries and funeral homes have rules about what kind of coffin is used at a funeral/burial?

i would think that maybe they wouldnt allow a home made coffin to be used no matter how nice it was.


----------



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Mike Gager said:


> do cemetaries and funeral homes have rules about what kind of coffin is used at a funeral/burial?
> 
> i would think that maybe they wouldnt allow a home made coffin to be used no matter how nice it was.


By law, they are required to use any casket or coffin that you specify that meets local requirements. The purpose of the law is to make sure that funeral companies do not force you to buy their caskets and take advantage of grieving families.


----------



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

I started making another casket today (its a spare) and I thought I would show you all the process.

It all starts with 3/4" plywood that I place my casket template on top and trace around it - I use a 1/4" piece of scrap to trace between the template and the pencil - gives me a little extra room. You can get two patterns on one sheet of plywood.

I then rough cut out the pattern with the jigsaw. I went ahead and cut out the second one too. I then secure the template to the cut out with a couple of nails (don't nail it all the way down) and flip it over. Using my flush trim bit for the router, I route out the pattern. This piece will serve as the bottom of the casket and the rest of the casket will be built around it.

Next take a sheet of 3/4" oak plywood and rip two pieces 96"x17". (The original was 19", but my abbot - religious superior - asked if I would make it a little shorter so I am giving it a try.) Then using a 3/4" router bit, run a groove (3/8" deep) along the bottom edges of both oak plywood pieces 1 3/8" from the bottom.

That is all I had time for today. Will post more as I move along.


----------



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Before I route the 3/4" wide and 3/8" deep groove 1 3/8" from the bottom of the side pieces, I like to go ahead and label them because spatial orientation is important for the next several steps.

Using an angle gauge I measure each corner of the base and cut the side pieces to length and the proper angle on the end to ensure a flat surface for the end pieces. (This can be one of the most frustrating parts of building the casket).:blink:

After the sides are cut to length, I start drawing a series of lines on the inside of the side pieces beginning 14" from the top. I draw 18 lines that are 1" apart. Using the radial arm saw, I set the depth to 3/8" and cut along each line. It does not have to be precise, I usually just eye ball it. This is done to allow the wood to bend along the frame.

The next steps involves a lot of elbow grease, clamps, and screws. Basically line up the groove in the bottom of the side panels with the bottom piece and slowly pull it together. You really have to put both sides together at the same time to make it work, but slowly apply pressure with the bar clamps help - also a solid worktable is a big plus. After it is all together and being help by clamps, I secure the sides with screws (I used 2", #8 screws) along the center line of the groove in the side panels. This is not a time to be stingy with the screws - I place them about a fist length apart.

Now I turn my attention to the end pieces and the lid. These are all made from 1/2" oak plywood. I rip one piece 26" wide which will serve as the lid. I then measure the width of both the head and foot area at the base and rip those out as well. The height will be 17", the same as the sides. Using brads I attach them to both ends. I usually have to apply a little pressure on the side pieces to make them flush.


----------



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

I then place the lid piece on top and secure it with a clamp. Using another piece of 1/4" scrap I trace the outline of the casket onto the bottom of the lid. Before I rough cut out the pattern with the jig saw, I separate the viewing area of the lid from the rest - about 36" from the top. I do this step now because it will make for a nicer fit and I still have parallel sides.

After cutting out the pattern I again clamp the lid to the casket, making sure that the grains line up.

That is as far as went today. More to come.


----------



## Bob Willing (Jul 4, 2008)

Fr. Thomas

Rockler sell plans for a casket as well as the accessories. They also sell a book on making 3 different coffins for humans ans pets. I like the hand hold on yours. Did you use oak?


----------



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

A few minor details were done today on the casket.

I started by using a flush trim router bit to route the casket lid while it was clamped down on the casket. Leaving the clamps on, I then proceeded to drill 8 holes (4 for each half of the casket lid) in the corners and counter sink them. I installed in those holes brass, 1 1/4", #10 screws. I then put the casket to the side and began working on the rails.

The rails and the holds are made from solid oak. I cut two rails that are 72"x1 1/4"x1 1/4". I then cut out 8 holds which are 7" long, 2 1/4" high, and 3/4" thick (the ends are cut at a 30-degree angle). I then use a special jig I made to center and drill 3 holes (1/4") all the way through the material. On the outer holes I counter sink 3/4" with a 1/2" bit.

That is all I got done today.


----------



## ThomasOSB (May 21, 2009)

Today started with working on the rail-holds. I created a special jig that allows me to route out , using a flush trim bit, a cavity that allows for the rail to sit recessed into the hold. I then switched the bit on the router to a 1/4" round-over bit and softened the edges of the holds. I switched the bit again to a 3/8" round-over bit and ran the edges of the rails, including the ends.

I then used another template, based on the hole-spacing of the holds, to layout the holes to attached the holds to side of the casket. The middle hole is positioned half-way down the entire height of the casket (17 1/2" including the lid). I place a hold ever 20" beginning with 11" from the head. On the inside I tap it a t-nut and then secure all the holds in place.

The next step will be to bend the rails along the curve of the casket. I will be steaming the rails - just didn't have time today - but I secured the shape of the casket by placing supports throughout using old scrap 2x4 and positioned them approximately half way up the casket. The are only lightly fitted into place because we don't want the sides to bend out either.

I finished the day by drilling and counter-sinking holes into the rail at the appropriate distances, staring 5 3/4" from one end.


----------



## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

This is quite an interesting build....

I am quite interested in this, and was wondering if you are still around..... 

I have been thinking more and more about building some caskets for my parents..... Hopefully they won't need them too soon.

Fabian


----------

