# Sears Craftsman 10 inch radial saw



## TheRecklessOne

I picked up a very ugly craftsman 10 inch radial arm saw someone was selling on craigslist for 100 bucks. 3 reasons for picking this up. 

1 - The guy that sold it to me was like a hundred years old, but built wooden sailboats with this saw. 
2 - He was selling off his business and all his things to sail to his new home on the gulf coast of mexico. 
3 - I wanted a radial arm saw and though this one is ugly is whisper quiet and works like a champ.

I really like the prospect of cleaning and tuning this saw. I know there are a number of books about bringing old tools back to life and tuning them. I was just wondering if anybody had any suggestions on these books or magazines.

Also, I would like to know everyone's opinion on which parts I should replace and which parts I should scrub and oil. I love the fact that this saw is ugly. It has a wonderful story behind it, many years of good use behind it, and seems very worthwhile to me to bring back to life. Let me know what you guys think! :thumbsup:

BTW The saw is 28 years old. Made in 1980.


----------



## Handyman

TheRecklessOne I have your saws brother. Its a nice tool. I would take it all the way down and sand / clean all parts and paint it. First spray it with Etching primer, them primer, and the paint it with what ever color you want it to be. Emery cloth or steelwool all the bear metal parts and rub down with car wax. Cut a new MDF or Particle board table. And the table goes all the way back to the post. Push the motor all the way back untill it stops and mount a fence just past the front edge of the blade, so the blade is out of the wood you are cutting when the motor runs out of travel. And enjoy the ride. One more thing you need to know. ALLWAYS and I mean ALLWAYS push the saw away from you to cut.


----------



## TheRecklessOne

How old is your saw handyman? Do you have any idea as to the horsepower of this saw? I can't find that anywhere. what are the dimensions of the full size top? the back board and the fence didn't survive the hour long ride home in the truck. Thanks for the reply!:thumbsup:


----------



## Lilty

I agree with handyman, but where is the blade guard ?

Lilty


----------



## Handyman

TheRecklessOne One more thing. Choice a car wax that does not have silicone in it. Silicone is a corrosive to most metals. It will rust in a matter of days with silicone on it. And as for the Etching Primer, it is a Adhesion Promoter. Spray it on everything you want to paint. It only takes a light coat, so dont try to cover with it. It works on all metal surfices. Takeing a short cut and not using it will result in the paint pealing off later. I have a shop full of antque tools.


----------



## Handyman

Lilty said:


> I agree with handyman, but where is the blade guard ?
> 
> Lilty



Blade guard, Whats a blade guard??

Recklessone I am not sure of the age, but it is a dead on match to yours. As for HP not sure about that one either, but I can tell you how to find out. on www.owwm.com you can put in the model number and find out everything you ever wanted to know.


----------



## John in Tennessee

*Like Restless said start cleaning and painting BUTTTTT!*

Drop me a email. Yours looks a lot like mine and I have the manual for it. Don't worry about replacing the table. I'm about 99% sure your saw qualifies for the free safety upgrade.When you email me with the model and serial number and I'll look it up.
[email protected]

BTW if anyone here needs a pdf copy of the manual or how to get the free upgrade just drop me a line and I'll get you the info.




Handyman said:


> Blade guard, Whats a blade guard??
> 
> *RecklessoneRecklessone​*​ I am not sure of the age, but it is a dead on match to yours. As for HP not sure about that one either, but I can tell you how to find out. on www.owwm.com you can put in the model number and find out everything you ever wanted to know.


----------



## TheRecklessOne

Thanks a lot everyone! John I'll e-mail you the info as soon as I can. I'm leaving for work, but 1st thing when I get home you'll get an a-mail.


----------



## cabinetman

That's a fairly new saw compared to most of the ones I've had. I've bought many and never spent over $100. My intent was to make a radial arm router out of one, by taking off the motor and installing a router. So, I would buy one, keep it around for a while and then get rid of it. I always kept one set up just for 90 deg cross cuts, and another one for everything else it could do.

My advice is if it works good and everything is intact, don't go replacing any parts until they need to be. A radial arm saw is probably the most complicated tool in the shop. It has pivots, rotating parts, lifting mechanisms, tilting this and that, spring loaded controls, cammed levers, just a lot of different adjustments. Learning what everything does and how to properly adjust the saw and use it will be of great benefit. Try to use a negative hook blade, and with a tooth count to be appropriate with the stock and type of cut.

With some use, cutting in either the pull or push stroke becomes comfortable. I prefer to cut on the pull stroke.

The saw below is just one of the typical RAS's I've gone through. This one is likely 20 years older than yours, and works perfectly. This one was given free to a buddy of mine who is starting a shop.
.


----------



## TheRecklessOne

Last night I removed the old table and table supports to find a small bee's nest that still had some old tenants. I took off the old blade (which was a very rusty 40 tooth ace hardware finish blade) and cleaned the shaft with a brass wire brush and WD 40.

question #1 - the blade stabilizers are kind of weeny and kind of rusty, but since this saw will generally be used to cut material to relative length is it worth it to purchase better blade stabilizers?

question #2 - Is car wax really the best thing to lube the moving parts?

question #3 - What are the benefits of cutting pushing the saw forward versus pulling it toward me and vise versa?

Thanks to John in Tennessee for the head's up about the safety recall on this and other craftsman radial arm saws. The FREE parts they're sending me are most of the items I'd planned on buying to replace anyway! And the new guard has the dust chute on the back instead of aimed right at your face. Thanks again John.


----------



## Handyman

TheRecklessOne said:


> Last night I removed the old table and table supports to find a small bee's nest that still had some old tenants. I took off the old blade (which was a very rusty 40 tooth ace hardware finish blade) and cleaned the shaft with a brass wire brush and WD 40.
> 
> question #1 - the blade stabilizers are kind of weeny and kind of rusty, but since this saw will generally be used to cut material to relative length is it worth it to purchase better blade stabilizers?
> 
> question #2 - Is car wax really the best thing to lube the moving parts?
> 
> question #3 - What are the benefits of cutting pushing the saw forward versus pulling it toward me and vise versa?
> 
> Thanks to John in Tennessee for the head's up about the safety recall on this and other craftsman radial arm saws. The FREE parts they're sending me are most of the items I'd planned on buying to replace anyway! And the new guard has the dust chute on the back instead of aimed right at your face. Thanks again John.



1. I am assuming by blade stabilizers you are refuring to the round disk that are on both sides of the blade. If so and you say they are in bad shape, replace them. It could cause a little wobble in the blade if they are in real bad shape.

2. The car wax isn't to lubricate the moving parts, it is to protect the bear metal part from rusting.

3. Looking at the blade from the guard side of the motor, the blade turns clockwise. That being said by pulling the saw towards you to cut a board can and will cause the saw to clime over the board and come at you unexpectly and could result in the saw hitting or cutting YOU. While the saw will cut in both direction, it is MUCH Safer to push the saw away.


----------



## Lilty

There is a saftey recall on some of these older Craftsman RAS, Google Radial arm saw recall to see if yours is one of them it could be worth $100.00.

Lilty


----------



## Handyman

Lilty said:


> There is a saftey recall on some of these older Craftsman RAS, Google Radial arm saw recall to see if yours is one of them it could be worth $100.00.
> 
> Lilty



Post number #7 answered the recall question.


----------



## TheRecklessOne

Handyman you're a wealth of knoweledge my friend...Thanks!

and Lilty the recall is worth well over the $100 dollars I paid. The only thing I need to replace now is the electrical cord which is a measly 17 bucks...:thumbsup:


----------



## Gerry KIERNAN

That truly is a butt ugly radial arm saw Reckless. But, what the hey. If it runs and works it is a very handy tool in the shop. I use mine regularly. With a little paint, some polishing, and some WD40 you'll have it looking like new.
I use my saw in both directions, but I prefer to push it away, because it is much safer.

Gerry


----------



## cabinetman

Handyman said:


> 3. Looking at the blade from the guard side of the motor, the blade turns clockwise. That being said by pulling the saw towards you to cut a board can and will cause the saw to clime over the board and come at you unexpectly and could result in the saw hitting or cutting YOU. While the saw will cut in both direction, it is MUCH Safer to push the saw away.



I use a RAS almost daily and can say that the saw cannot climb over the board and come at you. The motor/saw assembly is a fixed distance between the table and the arm, and does not move up and over a board when cutting. If it does that more than one attachment point is loose or not connected, and in that case the saw should not be used anyway. A dull blade, or pulling too fast may cause some resistance which may put an upward pressure on the motor, but in no way will it climb over a board.

What is important is to have a properly set up saw, use an appropriate blade (negative hook), and it being sharp, and feeding into the cut slowly, and use a slow smooth pull.

A push type cutting procedure requires pulling out the saw, setting up the subject piece, and then doing a push cut. I find counteracting the resistance is easier on a pull cut. If a board is wide, there may not be enough room to pull out the saw to start in front of the work.

Getting to know the feel of any tool and its limits may come with their use, and hopefully add to operator safety.


----------



## WDChew

My 1985 model looks just like it except my paint is still in good shape. I got the recall upgrade and the new blade guard is great. Ditto on Cabinetman's comments on pushing and pulling. A Forrest Woodworker I has the negative hook angle needed for a RAS or miter saw. Just be careful when pulling to control the movement. A RAS can be one of the most dangerous tools in the shop so always take your time and give it your full attention.

I've only had one mishap with it in over 20 years, using some of the Craftsman accessories...molding cutter in rip mode. And fortunately only the wood got mangled, not me. But it scared me so badly I had to leave the shop for the day. Of course, that just gave me the excuse to get my Delta TS for all ripping.


----------



## TheRecklessOne

Hey guys. I picked my mom and dad up from the airport this morning and the woodworking Gods had delivered my recall safety kit for the RAS to my doorstep. Perfect timing because I had my dad here to help me set it up. 

After a short trip to TrueValue we picked up all new hardware for the table supports and the mdf table. We leveled the brand new table supports. Installed the table and a temporary fence until I get my table saw back from the house I'm renovating. We put on the new guard. Which I really like by the way.

It was good that this came today because I knew that with my dad in from Kansas City he wouldn't want to sit around. Plus, It's always a good time working on stuff with my Pops. 

Thanks for the info John from Tennesee.

Is a negative hook blade required? What are the benefits?


----------



## TheRecklessOne

*Pics*

Here are some pics of the new guard and table


----------



## John in Tennessee

What I did after I put the new table I put another slab of MDF and shot a couple three screws in it..Makes it easy to install a new table and the one below doesn't get sliced up


----------



## Gus Dering

My first shop was my dorm room while I was in the USAF from 1977 -1981. It had 3 closet doors on one wall. The center door hid my brand new Sears Craftsman Radial Arm saw. The saw hinged down then rested on a little interlocking saw horse. I made some basic tables and stuff in that room before I realized the concept of dust collection had escaped me. I found a new place for it when I noticed I was making more dust and noise than friends.
My saw was an exact match to yours and I think I bought it in 79 for $300.
It was a good saw and I had alot of fun with it. 
Keeping it in tune was a constant chore. The climb cut safety issue raised above is real. The real danger is when cross cutting soft and thin material. As you pull the saw to you the blade wants to walk up on top of the material. It catches and runs forward. The thinner and softer the material the easier the teeth can puncture through and continue forward. Thats why you are being warned to "push" as you cut. You have to pull a little and be ready to push back a lot. The "3" horse motor just is not quite enough for alot of things you are going to try. Everytime the saw runs up on a peice of stock you will have to go through the tuning sequence. Not too much to worry about but something that deserves respect.
Ripping with this saw should really be avoided in my opinion. The worst kick back of my career was ripping with a moulding head cutter exactly like was described above. The cutter had 3 teeth the board was 4 feet long and the cutter caught the piece 6 times and the saw did not lose much rpm's while it shot that thing faster than I care to figure. I too quit for the day.
Unless there is some new conventional wisdom that has escaped me, You have the blade in that saw backwards. That will be pushing the board up instead of down. That must be why you said something about the dust coming right in your face. With a fresh spoils board on your top with a single kerf in it, the downward cutting action will give you a clean cut top and bottom. Cutting up,as you have the blade, will tear out at the top a little with the best of blade. And I'm pretty sure would be a bigger safty issue than the climb cut.

Congradulations on your new saw. It will satisfy your passion if you give it the tlc needs.


----------



## Gerry KIERNAN

That new blade guard looks real good Reckless. I tried to order one for mine, but the recall site doesn't recognise my model number.
Looking at your pictures I think you may have the blade on backwards.

Gerry


----------



## BHOFM

1980? Thats almost new, my four Craftsman saw
are all over forty and one is fifty years old.

Looking good!

All of mine have built a sailboat or two in their time.:laughing::laughing::laughing:


----------



## cabinetman

TheRecklessOne said:


> Here are some pics of the new guard and table












You definitely have the blade on backwards. The climb cut problem IMO, is an operator control problem, and possibly an improper blade. Learning the feed in rate and rate of movement lessens if not eliminates the upward tendency. If there is an indication of any upward pressure, slow down the feed. The exact same thing can happen on a table saw if material is pushed too fast into the blade and not held down. Patience is the key.


----------



## TheRecklessOne

Thanks guys! I knew as soon as put up the pics that the blade was on backward. :wallbash:I put it on there without much thought in an effort to tune and align the saw. I don't plan on using this framing blade anyway. It was just in the passenger seat of my truck for my miter saw. :smile: I'm actually considering the Avanti crosscut blade by freud because its on clearance at Lowe's. 

I figure I'll put a 1/4" sacrificial top on it inside of damaging the brand new mdf top. I'll pick up the new blade when I pick up more sheet goods:tank:


----------



## Handyman

cabinetman said:


> I use a RAS almost daily and can say that the saw cannot climb over the board and come at you. The motor/saw assembly is a fixed distance between the table and the arm, and does not move up and over a board when cutting. If it does that more than one attachment point is loose or not connected, and in that case the saw should not be used anyway. A dull blade, or pulling too fast may cause some resistance which may put an upward pressure on the motor, but in no way will it climb over a board.
> 
> What is important is to have a properly set up saw, use an appropriate blade (negative hook), and it being sharp, and feeding into the cut slowly, and use a slow smooth pull.
> 
> A push type cutting procedure requires pulling out the saw, setting up the subject piece, and then doing a push cut. I find counteracting the resistance is easier on a pull cut. If a board is wide, there may not be enough room to pull out the saw to start in front of the work.
> 
> Getting to know the feel of any tool and its limits may come with their use, and hopefully add to operator safety.


 
Once again Cabinetman is right. While I have lived in the USA for all my life and my family has been here for 300 years, I still have a problem with translation. My saw is bolted tight and is solid as a rock. The blade doesn't come over the wood and at me is I typed it may. It will make you think that with the wrong blade on it and pulling it to fast. I think my piont I was trying to make was it is better to push than pull the saw motor. The first time it happend to me, it felt like it was going to run over me. I still stand by the fact, when ever possible, push the saw away.


----------



## TheRecklessOne

I know what you mean about the saw "pulling" itself toward you on the pull stroke. Since my Dad is in town we're putting up tongue and groove reclaimed pine wallboards up in my shop. The wide boards are too wide to cut on the push stroke. Thanks to your guys advice I took the first couple cuts really easy until I found my comfort level with the saw. Great saw though!!!


----------



## John in Tennessee

*The $100 is not a bonus*

Some models you have to take the motor off
and ship i to them (Eastern) The money is to cover your labor and shipping.


----------



## TheRecklessOne

I'm not sure I understand your post John...


----------



## 99flhr

TheRecklessOne said:


> I would like to know everyone's opinion on which parts I should replace and which parts I should scrub and oil.


 I`m currently looking at a 12" ( also very ugly) for $125. Went online @ Craftsman and most parts are no longer available. Anybody have another parts source ? T.I.A.


----------



## PhilHow1

*Sears radial Saw professional 10*

Hi, I saw your pictures & comment on the Forum - I have just aquired the very same machine - I also an original copy of the owners handbook, would you like me to have a look throught it to see if there is any advice?
Best regards, 
Philip


----------



## John in Tennessee

Reckless it's about the safteu upgrade on the RAS. Some models thew can send you the total kit that you can install. Other are different and they will send toy $100 to take and ship the motor to them.


----------



## woodnthings

*To Push or to Pull, That is the Question!*



cabinetman said:


> I use a RAS almost daily and can say that the saw cannot climb over the board and come at you. The motor/saw assembly is a fixed distance between the table and the arm, and does not move up and over a board when cutting. If it does that more than one attachment point is loose or not connected, and in that case the saw should not be used anyway. A dull blade, or pulling too fast may cause some resistance which may put an upward pressure on the motor, but in no way will it climb over a board.
> 
> What is important is to have a properly set up saw, use an appropriate blade (negative hook), and it being sharp, and feeding into the cut slowly, and use a slow smooth pull.
> 
> A push type cutting procedure requires pulling out the saw, setting up the subject piece, and then doing a push cut. I find counteracting the resistance is easier on a pull cut. If a board is wide, there may not be enough room to pull out the saw to start in front of the work.
> Getting to know the feel of any tool and its limits may come with their use, and hopefully add to operator safety.



OK you guys, we are all entitled to our opinions, but these are the facts: When* pulling* the saw into the workpiece, because of the direction of blade rotation, the first teeth to contact the work are pushing it INTO the table surface and back towards the fence.
When *pushing *the blade into the workpiece, the first teeth to contact the work are trying to pull/lift it UP OFF the table surface. So it's up to you which way you chose to operate it, but the 2.4 million saw guard recall on Craftsman saws is because the old guard did not properly hold the work down on the table, when ripping, so the website states, the major source of accidents, kickbacks and lawsuits. They did this at great expense and for good reasons.
They offered to buy my older model blade guard and motor back for $100.00, since my saw was not covered under the recall....no way! They want to 
"retire it", thanks but I'll keep it going around in cicles.
Cabinetman's point about the width of the workpiece is also well taken. 
When cutting with a circular saw/Skill saw the work is pushed up into the base of the saw, trapping it even though you are pushing the saw away from you into the workpiece. The RAS is not the same,since there is no base plate to stop the workpiece from lifting off the table, YOU must securely hold it down.
Which ever method you use it's best to understand what the forces acting on the workpiece are. My opinion, with assorted facts thrown in. :smile: bill


----------



## Terry McGovern

That's the same saw I had and gave away after the motor went out of it. I never did get the new guard, but I wish I had just kept it and replaced the motor, since the saw I replaced it with is junk, and the main reason that I don't buy Craftsman any more after many, many years of being a loyal customer. 

The new one, in the picture, is now about three years old. Within the first two months the nylon gear for lifting the arm stripped and had to be replaced under warranty. It still doesn't work as smoothly as the old one.

This saw has one safety feature I like, and that is a cable which restricts the forward motion that you're discussing. There are three settings to keep the blade from jumping at you, and the system works well.


----------



## dodgeboy77

I have to put my 2 cents in about RAS safety and pushing instead of pulling. I'd never heard of this! 

Some background: I just retired after 36 years as an Industrial Arts teacher. Wood was not my main area though I was trained in it and taught it some years. I was always next door to a wood shop when I wasn't teaching it. I always taught the kids to pull the RAS. I never had any problem, though the saw was primarily used for crosscutting.

Just to make sure I'm not full of it, I called the guy who was the high school wood teacher for 20+ years. He said the same thing - he never pushed and felt that the RAS was one of the more predictable tools in the shop. He never had an accident with one. The only incident he remembered was when a kid had a dado head on the saw and turned it on when the dado was partly engaged with the edge of the wood. Scared the crap out of everyone but no one was hurt.

I was in another school when a 9th grader cut his index finger half off on the RAS. That was operator error, though, not anything strange the machine did. We always painted the table area orange a couple inches on either side of the blade travel, but the kid wasn't paying attention to where his finger was. That's the only RAS accident I know of in either of the schools I taught in.

The only time I remember my Craftsman RAS trying to walk (run!?) toward me was once when I tried to rip a short piece with the grain perpendicular to the fence. I learned not to do that!

So anyway, I think you're giving the RAS a bad rap - for crosscutting, anyway. I wouldn't rip on a RAS as that is what the TS is for. Blade selection and sharpness is important, too.

The tool that always scared me is the shaper. When I took cabinetmaking in college the Prof said that was the most dangerous tool in the shop, then proceeded to tell horror stories about it. The first year I taught high school wood I unplugged the shaper and stuck it in the corner.

Bill


----------



## Ratt

*HP answer*

Back at some of the first threads someone asked about HP mine is model 113.199250 it is 2.5 hp if it helps anyone I just put in for my recall I hope I get it But if I dont owell it worked 15 or 20 years before it had one and as a jeweler I have to be very carefull its my jod and when I took shop in school we were told to pull it I guess its up to the user what makes you happy.


----------



## wolfmanyoda

I'll have to call the 800 number tomorrow and ask them about my RAS. I have 2 of these, one of them came up as NOT_EFFECTED_BY_THIS_RECALL, which is fine, but the other says NO_KIT_AVAILABLE.
I don't know if that means they are out for that model or if it's just another way of saying it's not effected.

Thanks for the link to the recall though, I hadn't heard of it before.


----------



## cabinetman

In getting up to date on this thread, I noticed something from TheRecklessOne's post in the picture. You'll see the operator holding the stock with the right hand, and pulling the motor with the left.
.









We might have discussed this before, but in my experience the operator stands to the left of the blade and pulls with the right hand, while holding the stock down with the left hand. This might be in the ergonomic design of the machine as most operators will be right handed. This positioning gets the operator somewhat out of the way of the cut. 

Vision to the left is much better, as the motor is not in the way. Setup for the stock is usually to the left of the blade. 

If a stop is used, there is the theory that a cut piece can get trapped between the blade and the stop. I will say that good operator procedure and not rushing the cut will help prevent a cutoff from going wild.


----------



## wolfmanyoda

Well that didn't work. I called them to see about the No_Kit_Available message and she said my saw is too old. 
Sure, it has the guard that they say needs replaced but since the saw was made in '76 they didn't bother making a kit for it. I guess it doesn't matter that it still runs like a champ.
Oh well, it was worth a shot.


----------



## rrbrown

Mort Tenon said:


> The new one, in the picture, is now about three years old. Within the first two months the nylon gear for lifting the arm stripped and had to be replaced under warranty. It still doesn't work as smoothly as the old one.
> 
> This saw has one safety feature I like, and that is a cable which restricts the forward motion that you're discussing. There are three settings to keep the blade from jumping at you, and the system works well.


 
Hey Mort how many power cords you have on that new saw? I have one almost if not just like it. It,s only about 1 1/2 - 2 years old and has 2 power cords one for the saw and one for the motor that controls the forward motion. Just curious because I was still building my shop and actually took out the extended warranty on it because I just removed it from the box like 2 weeks ago. (I only paid $499, It was a good deal sells for $712 on sale as of today).

I am building cabinets to mount mine to and building like a 10' table and fence for it. So it's going to be like another 2 weeks before I can finish things and get to use the new saw.


----------



## unknownsoldierx

I have the same saw as the original poster. I inherited it but haven't used it yet. Received the kit and stated installing it and realized that the arm seems to be stuck. It won't move left or right at all.

How do I go about fixing this? I'm missing the angle scale and indicator on top of the saw. Do I have to worry about screwing up the calibration?


----------



## John in Tennessee

*Radial Arm Stuck*

How rusty ie the upright tube. Mine was hard to move. I spraye it with WD-40 and slowly worked it loose.





unknownsoldierx said:


> I have the same saw as the original poster. I inherited it but haven't used it yet. Received the kit and stated installing it and realized that the arm seems to be stuck. It won't move left or right at all.
> 
> How do I go about fixing this? I'm missing the angle scale and indicator on top of the saw. Do I have to worry about screwing up the calibration?


----------



## unknownsoldierx

It's not really rusty at all. It's pretty dusty and dirty and in need of a cleaning. I'd like to take it apart to clean and oil the tube and the big screw that raises the tube. I just want to make sure I can do it without messing everything up.


----------



## woodnthings

*arm stuck?*

The arm swings in an arc from the top of the post. There are 2 means of releasing these:
The older style is a 4" knob that tightens the lever after the pin seats in the hole. After unscrewing the knob, you pull back on the lever to release the pin.

The other is a lever on the top which is also pulled toward the operator to release the pin similar to the one in the photo, the newer style.

The pin may be just stuck in it's hole. Wiggle the arm left to right without straining it while pulling on the release lever to see if that helps release the pin. It's just that simple.  bill


----------



## unknownsoldierx

I have the new style with the lever on top. I've removed the top cover and there is a rod attached to the lever that gets driven into the post, with a piece of metal in between the rod and the post. The lever is in the unlocked position and the metal piece flaps back and forth freely.

Maybe I need to loosen the bolts on the back of the arm?

Also, I'd like to take the post completely apart and grease/oil everything so the post and arm move smoother. Can I do this without screwing up alignment or anything else?


----------



## Locodcdude

I may be getting a craftsman Radial Arm Saw from a buddy of mine, he said it just needs a new cord, but we'll see. What ever it's like, it's gotta be worth it


----------



## woodnthings

*Nope*

Quote: Maybe I need to loosen the bolts on the back of the arm?

That column doesn't rotate. 
The arm rotates on the top of the column. 
If you have PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench blast the pin and the gap
between the head and the column with the cap off. The pin should be hooked to the rod, not loose, if not that's your issue.
Check that out.  bill


----------



## unknownsoldierx

The column doesn't rotate, but it does go up and down to raise the arm. Eventually I want to get it cleaned up and oiled, along with the crank assembly so it moves a little easier. But that's a separate issue.

I was a little confused how the arm lock worked. I thought this part was what locked it in place:



Anyways, I just realized I can pull the lever much farther with the top cover off. The arm swings pretty nicely now.

Now I know why the top cover is torn up by the slit the lever protrudes from. The lever has to travel too far to allow the arm to move. I pull the lever back until it clicks into the unlock position, then I have to pull it back much farther and hold it while I swing the arm. I've adjusted the lever as tight as it can go but it still hits the cover when I pull in order to move the arm.

Am I correct in assuming the arm should swing without me holding the lever back to the (indexing position?) 

Also, after this I will be installing the safety kit. I don't have the arbor wrench that came with the saw. I have another arbor wrench with a thickness a hair under 1/4 inch. Will that work for setting the height of the table support bars?


----------



## woodnthings

Any flat piece of material will work, 1/8" to 1/4" thick. Better yet, 2 pieces, one on each side. I've never found the need to precisely set the table height, in fact my table sits right on the frame. My saw is only used for 90 degree crosscuts however, so if you are going to miter with it, it will matter more. I also use a large one piece table with a screw down fence, rather than the 3 piece that comes with it. :thumbsup: bill


----------



## magi

RecklessOne,

I own that saw and have used it off and on for over thirty years. Until this month the only work it needed was a deck replacement and some squaring adjustments. Unfortunately, during a recent rip the motor overheated and the reset didn't work. I think I have burned out the control block on the motor, but haven't found information needed to test that theory. If you come across part or information sources for this machine, I would appreciate your sharing.

magi


----------



## magi

I'm interested in the safety upgrade. 

I recently overheated mine and am looking for instructions about how to test the motor components to determine what needs replacing. 

The comment about pushing not pulling the blade impressed me. Do you concur with the advice?

Thanks for your time.

magi


----------



## woodnthings

*Pull it*

The owner's manual and common sense says pulling the saw into the work is safest, since you can "resist" the tendency for the saw to climb onto the work. 
Also the teeth on the blade are turning upward from the operator to the fence, thereby lifting the work off the table. If you start out lifting the work then you have a problem. By pulling it into the work gradually the teeth have already made a kerf and there is much less tendency for the work to lift.

The overheated motor may just need the red reset button pushed until you hear a click. Just slight pressure should do it.


----------



## CasinoDuck

Thanks for the heads up guys, after reading this post, I just ordered one for my Craftsman too:thumbsup:


----------



## RASMAK

*Craftsman 10" Radial Arm Saw*

Hey Fellas,

This has been a fantastic wealth of knowledge and tips for me. So, thank you!

I was gifted a Craftsman 10" RAS in late summer from my Father-In-Law (FIL)! I'm pretty sure it is the exact model as was the start of this thread. So I naturally started Googling it to find out more about it. It turns out I have the 3rd owner I think and my FIL kept all the documentation so I have the original owners manual, wrenches, parts, etc. Sick!

When I read on here and other places online about the safety recall and the free blade guard kit I was stoked. I immediately ordered it. I just didn't realize that it came with the blade guard AND a totally new table top and fence!? WHAT!? Awesome ... too bad I had JUST finished building my own brand new table top & fence out of 3/4" MDF. Mine is better : )

TABLE TOP

The previous table top my FIL had on there was a 1" particle board base with 1/4" plywood "scrap" top. The problem there was that where he had cut into and through the 1/4" top it had warped, bowed, and popped up making it really hard, annoying, and potentially dangerous to try and rip anything on that surface, or to keep any workpiece flat while cutting.










I built my RAS table top out of 3/4" MDF for the base. Then I put another layer of 3/4" MDF on top of that (totaling 1.5") for a "scrap" layer to cut into. This top layer gets bolted on at the four corners and two in the middle (I countersunk the bolts obviously). This allows me to have a perfectly smooth top layer that will never warp, bend, pop up, or splinter (much) even if I cut deep into it since MDF is super stable. The added thickness is also nice for a heavy, sturdy, stable table top.










BLADE GUARDS

The old blade guard didn't have all the new safety features (obviously), but it did work pretty well as long as you respected the saw, its capabilities, and practiced common sense safety per the operators manual. I did several crosscuts with it to build my MDF tabletop as well as used it to rip MDF. The ripping can be safe as long as you use the anti-kickback pawls as instructed and lower the front of the blade guard down to almost touching the workpiece's top surface (keeping it from lifting up and from kicking back, this also keeps some sawdust out of your face).

I know what Reckless was talking about with the old blade guard shooting right in your face. The dust shoot used to have a 90˚ elbow on it but that was long gone on mine and his it seems. But having the dust shoot out the front makes zero sense anyway. Glad they fixed that with the new blade guard (has it coming out the back/top with a 90˚ elbow included).

The new blade guard works great. It includes the new handle operated lift guard as well as a riving knife! Ripping is really nice on this RAS with this new setup.










THE RIVING KNIFE

QUESTION: Has anyone had trouble with their new blade guard riving knife/anti-kickback pawls coming loose from the blade guard housing? There are 2 connection points for the riving knife/anti-kickback pawls to the larger blade guard housing. Recently I had the nut come off the bolt on the lower connection point WHILE I WAS USING THE SAW for crosscutting. YIKES! POW! It flew (thankfully) out the BACK of the saw hitting the wall. I immediately powered down and replaced the nut and cranked it down!

BUT the other connection point (where the red tension knob secures the riving knife/anti-kickback pawls after adjusting their height) can only be adjusted (it seems) from the underside of the blade guard (aka you have to take it off the saw to see it) is also loose ... BUT I don't think there is a nut on that side. Is there at nut on anyone elses? It seems that there are just a couple of lock washers on mine?! Anyone able to shed some light on this for me? Is there anyway to tighten it down? I tighten the red tension knob (depth setting knob) down as hard as I dare and the whole thing is still loose.

The problem with all of this is relatively minor (I think), but annoying, and slightly dangerous (so maybe NOT so minor?). The anti-kickback pawls work great regardless, but it is the riving knife that won't operate properly.

I followed the instructions for aligning and setting up the riving knife properly with the fence. But every time that I put a workpiece through it while ripping, it gets to the riving knife but stops because the riving knife isn't in line with the blade. So I have to reach around (I know this is a safety no no) to the other side of the enclosed blade guard and bump the riving knife into the kerf slot so that it will work properly. Then it is fine for the rest of that cut (obviously). But this is obviously a MAJOR annoyance and not very safe. That is why I bring up the looseness as an issue. I have tried to realign the riving knife with the fence, but with the same result. I'm convinced the looseness is the issue.

Other than THAT, the new blade guard kit is sweet!

QUESTIONS: Blade choice for the RAS

1. What is a negative hook blade?
1B. Do I HAVE to use a negative hook blade in my RAS? Or can I get away with using one that isn't?

2. What is the BEST ALL AROUND blade for crosscutting AND ripping in my RAS? 28T? 30T? 40T? Think, "1 blade does it all".
2A. Any brands you would recommend? (keep in mind I'm poor/cheap)
2B. Or do I need more than 1 blade to REALLY do it right?
2C. Do I need a special blade for hardwoods?

3. Can I get carbide blades resharpened?
3A. If so, how much would it cost to resharpen a standard carbide blade?
3B. AKA, is it worth it? Or should I just buy a new blade (depending on the quality I purchase)?

4. What could be causing wavy lines in my crosscuts? (see photo)
4A. Pulling the saw through too slow? Too fast?
4B. Warped blade? (the blade isn't missing any teeth, and it is tight on the spindle)
4C. Old blade? Just needs to be replaced? (I am using the old 28T standard carbide blade that it came with from my FIL, no telling how OLD it is ...)










DUST COLLECTION: QUESTION:

Any recommendations for a good (read affordable and reliable) system to hook up to the RAS for dust collection? (i.e. shop vac?)

WEIGHING IN ON THE DEBATES

Per Ripping with the RAS:

I don't have a problem with it. It works great. You just have to ALWAYS use the blade guard as it is intended, use the riving knife, anti-kickback pawls, and lower the front of the guard to almost the top of the workpiece. Follow the users manual instructions on that and you shouldn't have trouble ripping with it!

I don't have a table saw  So ... I have to rip with my RAS. IF I DID have a TS I would naturally just dedicate my RAS to crosscuts.

Pushing vs. Pulling Crosscuts:

I'm a newbie, but the instruction manual says pull. So I only pull, and it feels very safe and comfortable. I only get in trouble when I impatiently want to pull the saw TOO quickly through the workpiece and it runs toward me real fast as it eats through the wood (and usually stalls or bogs down the motor). As long as I have a firm, concentrated, and patient grip then I can cut straight and steadily through any work piece up to 4" thick (tall). The key is to go SLOWER as the piece gets thicker or more dense. Just do it by feel erring on SLOW. 

The blade force at work when you pull, since the blade is rotating clockwise (from the guard side), is down into the work piece and thus down into the table and against the fence. As you pull further through the piece and the backside of the blade is engaged with the workpiece it begins to switch and the force of the blade is up off the table. All that to say you should always keep a firm hold on your workpiece for the ENTIRE duration of the crosscut.

I love my RAS and I can't wait to build more stuff with it!


----------



## ryan50hrl

Its running out toward you when you pull, because you don't have a negative hook blade. Get the right blade......that will be greatly reduced/eliminated. 

You really need two blades.....a low tooth count ripping blade...and a higher tooth count crosscut blade.


----------



## Shop Dad

Look on eBay for Onsrud miter saw blades. Excellent value. Search the forum and you will see many of us have them.


----------



## Woodbore

*The blade is on backwards !*

Turn the blade around with the teeth facing the fence from the foward position. The way it's mounted on the arbor in the photo, you will throw the board you are cutting in your face. RAS demand respect or they will bite you. Never push cut into your wood to cross cut it either.

Note: I see you have the blade on correct in the last photos, where as it was wrong in the first set. Someone else has the blade backwards too - Think it was Mort Tenon


----------



## Pirate

Woodbore said:


> Turn the blade around with the teeth facing the fence from the foward position. The way it's mounted on the arbor in the photo, you will throw the board you are cutting in your face. RAS demand respect or they will bite you. Never push cut into your wood to cross cut it either.
> 
> Note: I see you have the blade on correct in the last photos, where as it was wrong in the first set. Someone else has the blade backwards too - Think it was Mort Tenon


I disagree with a blade being backwards, throwing the board in your face.
It just won't cut very good, if at all. If the motor was running in reverse, it would throw the wood at you.

I do agree with, not pushing the blade into the wood, as it would try to lift the wood. Not sure where this idea came from. Maybe from someone with a scms, where this is the norm.


----------



## RASMAK

ryan50hrl said:


> Its running out toward you when you pull, because you don't have a negative hook blade. Get the right blade......that will be greatly reduced/eliminated.
> 
> You really need two blades.....a low tooth count ripping blade...and a higher tooth count crosscut blade.


The only reason negative hook blades exist, it seems from what I read, is for safety on 2 similar tools in particular, the RAS and the sliding miter saw. Correct? Is there any other reason that you would want a negative hook blade, other than for safety on the tools I just mentioned? (For safety because they can move toward the operator quickly being that they slide.)

I have been unknowingly using a positive hook (24T ripping/framing) blade on my radial arm saw since I got it back in August. I have not been concerned or afraid at any point in using it whether for ripping or cross cutting. It seems that using a negative hook blade is an added (optional) safety measure rather than a necessity, and only for cross cutting (NOT for ripping).

Since the RAS does both ripping and cross cutting, and one can switch back and forth between the two relatively quickly, I plan to get a standard positive hook 40T decent quality blade for all ripping and cross cutting. Unless someone can convince me otherwise?


----------



## ryan50hrl

Well here's the thing, a 40 tooth blade is really too many for ripping effectively, and a 40 tooth blade is really not enough for cross cutting effectively. So in my opinion, get a regular ripping blade somewhere in that area of 24 to 30 teeth. And then a negative hook blade for crosscutting


----------



## ryan50hrl

You'll see much better results using two separate Blades than one plate for both

One blade is like owning a mini van, yes you can Haul stuff, and drive it around on the weekends, but it's not as much fun as owning a pick up truck and a Corvette


----------



## RASMAK

ryan50hrl said:


> Well here's the thing, a 40 tooth blade is really too many for ripping effectively, and a 40 tooth blade is really not enough for cross cutting effectively. So in my opinion, get a regular ripping blade somewhere in that area of 24 to 30 teeth. And then a negative hook blade for crosscutting


Touché, Sir.

Why do the 40T blades exist then? What good are they?

I must agree with your statement, at least partially, given my recent experience. It was helping a good friend build some shelves out of 2x4's this weekend, and we were using a nice Makita sliding miter saw for all the crosscuts and metering etc. That thing had what looked like to be at least a 60T carbide blade on it. MAN did it ever cut smooth ends on those crosscuts! Wow! I guess that's the difference a quality blade will make.

I think I just don't want to have to change blades every time I have to make the opposite type of cut, given that I don't have separate tools dedicated to either, and the RAS does both reasonably well.

Am I being lazy? Can I get by with the 40T if I'm not doing FINE woodworking? I.e just cutting mostly construction lumber?


----------



## toolguy1000

RASMAK said:


> Touché, Sir.
> 
> Why do the 40T blades exist then? What good are they?
> 
> probably for table saws and softwoods.
> 
> I must agree with your statement, at least partially, given my recent experience. It was helping a good friend build some shelves out of 2x4's this weekend, and we were using a nice Makita sliding miter saw for all the crosscuts and metering etc. That thing had what looked like to be at least a 60T carbide blade on it. MAN did it ever cut smooth ends on those crosscuts! Wow! I guess that's the difference a quality blade will make.
> 
> I think I just don't want to have to change blades every time I have to make the opposite type of cut, given that I don't have separate tools dedicated to either, and the RAS does both reasonably well.
> 
> Am I being lazy? Can I get by with the 40T if I'm not doing FINE woodworking? I.e just cutting mostly construction lumber?
> 
> like you, i keep one blade on my RAS, but it's used solely for CC. it is not a negative hook angle blade. unlike you, i ripped on it once, and that was enough.


BTW, did you ever determine what was causing those wavy cross cuts?


----------



## RASMAK

toolguy1000 said:


> BTW, did you ever determine what was causing those wavy cross cuts?


I appreciate your response dude.

I still have yet to determine the wavy crosscut conundrum. It will still do it from time to time so I'm not sure what it is. But I am betting that it is probably the ancient, dull, gunk covered, crappy Craftsman blade that is the culprit. Do you Concur?

I plan to clean it up with some Simple Green here soon and see how that changes it. But, maybe I should just throw on one of the other blades my Father-In-Law gave me before I try to fix this one up ...


----------



## RASMAK

ryan50hrl said:


> You'll see much better results using two separate Blades than one plate for both
> 
> One blade is like owning a mini van, yes you can Haul stuff, and drive it around on the weekends, but it's not as much fun as owning a pick up truck and a Corvette


So it'll work, it just won't be that awesome : )

Fair enough.


----------



## toolguy1000

RASMAK said:


> I appreciate your response dude.
> 
> I still have yet to determine the wavy crosscut conundrum. It will still do it from time to time so I'm not sure what it is. But I am betting that it is probably the ancient, dull, gunk covered, crappy Craftsman blade that is the culprit. Do you Concur?
> 
> i'd change blades first. if that doesn't resolve it, i'd check the arbor flange for run out.
> 
> I plan to clean it up with some Simple Green here soon and see how that changes it. But, maybe I should just throw on one of the other blades my Father-In-Law gave me before I try to fix this one up ...


i'd also check the movement of the saw carriage along the overarm.


----------



## vinnypatternmaker

TheRecklessOne said:


> Hey guys. I picked my mom and dad up from the airport this morning and the woodworking Gods had delivered my recall safety kit for the RAS to my doorstep. Perfect timing because I had my dad here to help me set it up.
> 
> After a short trip to TrueValue we picked up all new hardware for the table supports and the mdf table. We leveled the brand new table supports. Installed the table and a temporary fence until I get my table saw back from the house I'm renovating. We put on the new guard. Which I really like by the way.
> 
> It was good that this came today because I knew that with my dad in from Kansas City he wouldn't want to sit around. Plus, It's always a good time working on stuff with my Pops.
> 
> Thanks for the info John from Tennesee.
> 
> Is a negative hook blade required? What are the benefits?


 Hi! My Pops passed six years ago, and you just reminded me of the fun Pops and I had tracking down old arn', restoring it and playing with our "new to us" toys :icon_smile:!
Thanx and Best,
Vinny
Still got your great Pops? Give him a bear hug and a kiss (on the cheek)...enjoy him :yes:!


----------



## RASMAK

toolguy1000 said:


> i'd also check the movement of the saw carriage along the overarm.


What would "arbor flange run out" look like? Just getting old and crappy? Warped?


----------



## Woodbore

RASMAK - 
The only reason negative hook blades exist, it seems from what I read, is for safety on 2 similar tools in particular, the RAS and the sliding miter saw. Correct? *YES* - other than for safety on the tools I just mentioned? (For safety because they can move toward the operator quickly being that they slide.) *YES*

It seems that using a negative hook blade is an added (optional) safety measure* YES - *rather than a necessity, and only for cross cutting (NOT for ripping). *NO - ripping is the most dangerous !*

I plan to get a standard positive hook 40T decent quality blade for all ripping and cross cutting. *Unless someone* *can convince me otherwise*?[/QUOTE]
-

A standart 40T would be for a table saw likely with a 20 degree hook. Use a low hook combination blade. Being in a rush is why many people have been hurt on a radial Arm Saw. Breaking a rib or getting your teeth knocked out when ripping may convince you. Work safely and use the holddowns and guides when ripping - even if you use the correct blades. 40 yrs using a 12" radial and no accidents - safety first.


----------



## toolguy1000

RASMAK said:


> What would "arbor flange run out" look like? Just getting old and crappy? Warped?


check out this site and look for the arbor flange runout discussion:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/tsalign.html

checking for arbor flange runout on a RAS would be done the same way as it's done on a TS, but with the added difficulty if not having a CI table on the RAS.


----------



## Steve Neul

cabinetman said:


> In getting up to date on this thread, I noticed something from TheRecklessOne's post in the picture. You'll see the operator holding the stock with the right hand, and pulling the motor with the left.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We might have discussed this before, but in my experience the operator stands to the left of the blade and pulls with the right hand, while holding the stock down with the left hand. This might be in the ergonomic design of the machine as most operators will be right handed. This positioning gets the operator somewhat out of the way of the cut.
> 
> Vision to the left is much better, as the motor is not in the way. Setup for the stock is usually to the left of the blade.
> 
> If a stop is used, there is the theory that a cut piece can get trapped between the blade and the stop. I will say that good operator procedure and not rushing the cut will help prevent a cutoff from going wild.


What is illustrated in the picture is the textbook correct way to operate a radial arm saw. If the stock is on the right side you pull with the left hand and hold the stock with the right. If the stock is on the left side you pull with the right hand and hold the stock with the left. Nobody should hold the stock on the right side with the left hand and pull with the right. It puts your arm directly in the path of the blade.


----------



## woodnthings

*Wobbly cuts on a RAS*

There are several reasons a blade might make a wobbly kerf on a RAS. 

1. Starting with the blade and it's mating with the arbor and flange both must be clean and free from chips and metal burs. The arbor must not be bent. To check for this remove the blade, clean off all the mating surfaces, run the loose washers and nut over a piece of 320 wet/dry paper until the surface shows an even shine. Mount the blade and washers on the arbor and tighten the nut finger tight. Spin the blade to see if there is any runout or wobble. If not, then next thing to check is the "play" in the sliding carriage on the arm. 

2. Grasp the carriage and see if you can sense any play by twisting it right or left. If there is play the rollers are not set correctly on the left side of the carriage. They are mounted on cams which can be adjusted by rotating them after loosening the lock nut on the top. Snug them up, but do not make them so tight to prevent free movement of the carriage down the full length of the arm.
3. The last thing to check is the "play" in the entire arm from it's locked position on the column. Lighten up the lock knob on the end , snug but not overtightened. Try to move the arm from the end and if it moves at all, you'll need to adjust the locking wedge at the rear of the column. 
4. It is also possible the blade itself is bent, and that will be evident by spinning it by hand while holding the carriage stationary or "locked".

If the arbor appears to be bent, quite unlikely, you have a very large and heavy boat anchor. RAS motors have a factory sealed case and don't allow for internal part replacement.
Hopefully it's one or all of the other issues.

As far as blade types, I used a 40 T "table saw" blade for many years until the never zero or negative hook blade came out and were reasonably priced. I now use a 60 T Diablo by Freud.. about $40.00 at Home Depot. It still wants to pull itself into the work a bit, so you must have a firm grip on the handle and resist the movement with the large muscles in you. A properly setup RAS, will give accurate crosscuts at 90 degrees to the fence. 
Unless you have a lot of experience and a complete knowledge of the operation of RAS, I don't recommend RIPPING. It can be done, but you had better know what you are doing, or you're asking for a kickback or worse. The RAS has a lot of exposed blade, even with a good guard like the new Safety Recall Blade Guard, and smaller pieces bring your fingers in close proximity to that blade, not good.

The table saw actually pulls the workpiece downward into the table as you bring it into contact with the blade, a good thing. The RAS actually wants to lift the workpiece off the table (when ripping) and pulls it into the fence when the blade first comes into contact, a possibly dangerous thing. The workpiece must be held securely against the fence and down against the table to prevent this. The physics of the machine play a role in the operation and should be understood before you go whacking off pieces of material. :yes:


----------



## Pirate

woodnthings said:


> The table saw actually pulls the workpiece downward into the table as you bring it into contact with the blade, a good thing. The RAS actually wants to lift the workpiece off the table or pulls it into the fence when the blade comes into contact, a possibly dangerous thing.


I don't agree.
When the blade on my ras starts cutting, the direction of the blade tries to hold the wood down. For the blade to try to lift the wood, you would need to push the blade, instead of pull. A ras motor/blade should be pulled into the wood, which tends to hold the wood down.


----------



## woodnthings

*You are correct!*



Pirate said:


> I don't agree.
> When the blade on my ras starts cutting, the direction of the blade tries to hold the wood down. For the blade to try to lift the wood, you would need to push the blade, instead of pull. A ras motor/blade should be pulled into the wood, which tends to hold the wood down.



I was making an argument for pulling the saw rather than pushing it and it just stuck in my mind from previous posts. The part of the post that is true, is when ripping. The saw tends to lift the work off the table because of the blade rotation and that's when the nose of the blade guard must be held close to or against the work surface. Sorry for the confusion! :blink:


----------



## valechris33

John in Tennessee said:


> Drop me a email. Yours looks a lot like mine and I have the manual for it. Don't worry about replacing the table. I'm about 99% sure your saw qualifies for the free safety upgrade.When you email me with the model and serial number and I'll look it up.
> [email protected]
> 
> BTW if anyone here needs a pdf copy of the manual or how to get the free upgrade just drop me a line and I'll get you the info


John in Tennessee, could you forward the pdf and upgrade info my way please? I will try emailing you also. Thanks, [email protected]


----------



## cookieb

*saw model 113.19770 Craftsman Radial*

don't know if you ever go to FIXYA and ask a:no: question....there is a link to download your manual for free and also a link to get you a guard for free on the recall list


----------



## mlgower

Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou!!!! for the recall info. That's Great to know. I ordered the kits for both of my RAS's and got the Manuals for the one I just picked up this evening. I just found a Craftsman Electronic RAS. the one with the motor lift on it. and Got it for $40 bucks. I was going to get the mdf to replace the table tomorrow, but this is better by far. 

Cheers, 

Michael


----------



## valechris33

mlgower said:


> Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou!!!! for the recall info. That's Great to know. I ordered the kits for both of my RAS's and got the Manuals for the one I just picked up this evening. I just found a Craftsman Electronic RAS. the one with the motor lift on it. and Got it for $40 bucks. I was going to get the mdf to replace the table tomorrow, but this is better by far.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Michael


Can you forward me the recall info?


----------



## Fins59

valechris33 said:


> Can you forward me the recall info?


 Just google "Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Recall" and and that should give you all the info :thumbsup:


----------



## cookieb

_*that recall I told you about mine has arrived you get the table with the guard mine is already here.....my saw still doesn't run but I have that new part for free so feeling a little better today and glad I could help you*_


----------



## valechris33

Fins59 said:


> Just google "Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Recall" and and that should give you all the info :thumbsup:


The kit wasn't what I expected. Definitely surpassed my expectations. Thanks for the tip!


----------

