# First impressions R4512 and upgrades



## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Hey guys, just thought I'd post my status with the new R4512 Rigid sent to replace my POS R4511. Over all i am impressed, and it seems to be light years better than the R4511 out of the box, operates very smoothly (passed the nickle test out of the box), alignment was perfect right out of the box including the bevel stops. 
Just to see what it'd do playing around, i tried ripping a piece of 1 1/2" thick oak with a Freud 50 tooth combo blade. This machine though being rated the same as the R4511 seems to have more power.
the fence and ext. wings IMO are very low budget. split rails, and it seems to me if your going to have stamped steel wings the 4 vertical faces should be attached in the corners for strength and square-ness. That is not the case with these.
I have installed a delta T2 fence system and am making my own wings out of mdf, laminate and 1x2 poplar. All sides/holes are sealed up to counter weather effects somewhat hopefully. I may later on look into a cast wing at least for the left side down the road.
So far the saw is assembled, the T2 is where i want it, actually lined up well enough with minimal mods i had to make anyways to use the factory scale. the fence sits a little higher than i like, but i plan to use a sacrificial fence on anything less than 1/4".
So far i think this is going to be a good saw with the additions i have made to it. some may say that I'm putting too much money into it out of the box, but the way my math works, i paid 299 for the R4511, the R4512 is a free replacement for it, 150 for the fence, high guesstimate 50 for the wing materials and hardware. So for 500 out of pocket, i have a good running saw with a good fence. Now if i could figure out something more useful to do with the R4511 other than a shed weight. lol.


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## RJweb (Feb 25, 2011)

Glad to see the saw working out, yes I would say if you have to put that much into a new saw, why not just buy a better saw. but I agaree in your case it is a perfect solution, enjoy it.


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## maple leaf (Oct 13, 2011)

Hi Troyd I am a brand new member as of this AM and I am in the market for a hybrid table saw. This week I had a $350.00 offer in on a like new 4511 but after reading (a back issue report in (Fine Home Building) about the possinility of the arbor breaking when using a dado set I passed on that saw. Is that why Ridgid stopped mgfg them or was the granite top the problem? To anybody out there are there any super deals on the 4512. Thanks Paul.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

ML - I'm not sure any of us "bystanders" know for certain why Ridgid stopped making the R4512. I doubt very much is was due to the arbor, as those were a few isolated units, and an easy fix for them. (AFAIK, the issue with the arbor on the Ridgid TS3650 was much more widespread, yet didn't lead to a discontinuation). I've heard much speculation that they were discontinued in part due to the high breakage HD experienced in their warehouses ....rumor has it that HD employees were double stacking them against the manufacturers recommendations, causing excessive breakage. The most common complaint I've read about the saw is with the two piece front rail system, but the saw was otherwise very well regarded by owners, and was excellent design under the hood (cabinet mounted trunnions, one piece cast arbor carriage, serpentine belt drive).


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## RJweb (Feb 25, 2011)

are you refering to the 4511 with the granit top, the 4512 was there newer model, cast iron and steel.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

RJweb said:


> are you refering to the 4511 with the granit top, the 4512 was there newer model, cast iron and steel.


The R4511. (the R4512 is still in production)


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

I had a bad experiance with the R4511, but i have to think part of the discontinuation is the way the motor was mounted. if you look at it's clones, they now have a diffrent motor mount setup than the R4511.
I'm sure alot has to do with my own hard feelings with the R4511, but i think the R4512 is a far superior saw though it could really use some cast iron wings. also when setting the bevel i have noticed with my r4511 id set it by the scale on front, than check and adjust. My R4512 i set it with the gauge on front, check it and its dead on (ok at this point i just check it for that dead on feeling :laughing:.

It seems to me most folks that are are issue free with the R4511 tend to hold onto them, so i'd check the machine very well for any viabration, etc. and remember while a R4512 new may cost you 200 more now, it will have the lifetime service agreement that is non transferable. so you'd be on your own with the R4511.


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## WooDR67 (Feb 16, 2012)

*T2 install on R4512 diffculty level?*

What was the difficulty level when installing the fence? I got my T2 yesterday and I am looking at it and thinking "what have I gotten myself into". But since my R4512 needs a rip fence, i have no choice. 
Did you have to move the measuring tape or did you zero the rail to the blade? 
Also, did you drill the saw or the rails and how accurate do I have to be?


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Its been a while but if I remember right I had 1 bolt location I used and I drilled the other. I used nuts/bolts that fit the tapered shoulder on the L channel as to not have clearance issues. It was off just enough that I did replace the scale. If a guy didn't want to drill the table, wouldn't be hard to drill new holes in the rail and find bolts that thread in right and have the tapered shoulders on the heads.
If I had it to do again id shift mine more to the right, as is I'm about 32" to the right capacity.
I've never used the R4512 oem fence, but it is imo a very accurate no brainer with the T2.
The easiest way is to get yourself some clamps, and mock it up into place with the front rail before you do anything, check to make sure your fence will have the right gap between its bottom and the table top. once you have everything where you need it for the front rail attach it and mock up the rear rail so everything's where you want it.


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## WooDR67 (Feb 16, 2012)

*More questions*

I don't have access to a drill press.Did you just use a regular power drill to drill the table saw? If so was it difficult?
Also where did you mount the power switch?


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

i drilled with a regular power drill and titanium bits. and as far as my power switch i screwed it directly to the extension wing that i also outfitted the saw with.


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## Dado Mortise (Dec 29, 2012)

*Hello and forgive my newbiness*

I am new to woodworking, but I made a what I hope is a good purchase (R4512). My problems are that I can't get the outboard tables level with the main table and the fence slides smoothly on the main table, but hangs on the outboards. I can move it, but it requires a bit of tapping to get it going. I raised the front end of the fence using the two plastic screws by the handle. That got it off the table, but it still hangs when I go out. Ideas? Suggestions? :hammer:


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

i typically use long levels to align the wings to the table, clamping them to the table, than the wings to it. any known straight edge will work. its also much easier to do it if done prior to installing the fence.


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## Kevin K (Jan 1, 2013)

Troyd1976 is spot on, use a straight edge to level the wings and you shouldn't have a problem. Unless, you haven't correctly leveled the rails... Set mine up several months back and haven't had any problems. 

Kevin


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

A bit late, but when installing any fence like a T-2 or Biesemeyer (or clone) be sure to mount the angle iron, that the tube mounts to, at the right height, so there isn't much gap, between the bottom of the fence and table.
A nice feature of the orig Jet xacta fence (biesemeyer clone) I have, is there are 2 nylon adjustment screws, which raise the fence up or down, and can be used to adjust the fence faces 90 deg. to the table. The Biesemeyer doesn't have these.


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