# Oak Burl, big slabs , and considering cutting them.



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Hi folks. 
About 15 years ago I came across some oak burl. It was a huge tree and the base was all burled out and 7 ft across. I didn't have a chainsaw of any size for such an item and no way to move it, so the cutter went after it with a 4 ft bar on his saw and cut her up as best he could. Later he dropped em off, and I put them behind the garage to sit, tarped over and stickered up.
Well the years went by. I looked at from time to time, but somewhat forgot about them. The tarp rotted many years ago and they sat. (foolish, eh?) I really had no means to work on them. I just couldn't let them get cut up and burned later. 
.......
Ok, get to the point. 

I pulled em out a week ago, cut off what was left from rotting and bug chew and was actually surprised that they were in as good of shape as I found em.
I cut off all (or most) rot and bug chew, and washed em down to see what I had. 
Some pieces are 3 ft long x 2 ft x 6" thick.(measured at their longest points)
The biggest is 4 ft long 2.5 ft x 8" thick 
5 pieces in all, and some small cutoffs I didn't have the heart to throw out.

Moisture is not low, but not outrageous either, and I can probably get them down by getting them out of the weather. 
....
Ok heres the point and question.

If I cut these things in 2" to 3" slabs, I can about guarantee they will take off and warp up, being they are burled and no straight grain.
I was considering cutting the slabs and literally screwing 3/4" plywood to the underside to try and keep it stable during drying.

Good or bad idea?

Thanks/Dan


----------



## fromtheforty (Jan 15, 2011)

Sorry, but its most likely not going to work. 3/4" plywood will be no match for the warping power of the oak. Secondly, you probably will promote warp because the side with the plywood screwed to it will not dry as fast as the uncovered side. I'm pretty sure it will also mold on the plywood side. I would just cut them thicker than you need so you have sufficient material to machine off when you want to flatten them. Hope this helps.

Geoff


----------



## phinds (Mar 25, 2009)

Speaking from a point of view of almost pure ignorance, I'd guess that if they develop stress while drying then as soon as the plywood is unscrewed, they will move.


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

fromtheforty
Yeah, good points I hadn't considered. Thanks for that.
Would it be wise after cut and totally dried to back em up? I cannot see that big pieces of burl will ever be totally stable unless backed up in some manner. These would make nice table tops, and I would hate to see them cut into much smaller chunks.

phinds, 
I worry about em moving even after drying. Just due to changes in interior temps/humidity. Eventually all sides will be sealed.


----------



## klr650 (Apr 4, 2010)

I think as soon as you try to do anything with them they'll just warp anyway. If there's stress in them enough to cause them to warp, that stress won't just magically dissipate because they're dry.

The plywood will just promote rot, and slow down the drying process as was said earlier.

Let them do their thing, allow for waste. It may not be as bad as you think.


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Probably right.
I know after dried I might back it with a few solid oak boards just to keep it semi stable.
Even if turned into table tops, you need runners under the main blank anyways. 
I have a very old cyprus table that is 2" thick, 20" wide, and it has bellied in the middle over time, with no supports.


----------



## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

While I am in far north texas, I shop at a small sawmill in Durant OK, first thing I would do, is ask those nice guys to put all that material in their kiln, next time they load it up.

You can try that method, ask your local sawmill to toss them in their kiln......

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Woodworking Talk


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

oldmacnut
Thanks. I know how to set up a kin of sorts at home with a dehumidifier/fan setup(no heat), and I have a local mill that can do so as well.
I'm undecided if I want to send em out or attempt it myself, but that is being considered.
Currently I have hollow logs drying with small ceramic space heaters, no humidifier. It's working well, and some of the wood is quite thick. It's another option but the centers won't dry as fast as in a kiln. I'm going to have the mill cut em for me. They have a tall bandsaw, and I have no means of doing the cutting, so I guess I need to talk to the owner anyways.
Decisions, decisions.


----------



## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Until I can get me a Laguna bandsaw (currently own a ridgid) I gave up on resawing, and large stuff just based on the major maintenance that saw requires just to try and do the job of a larger saw designed for what horrors I put it through.

Point is, just save yourself the headache, let them sawmill people treat that wood of yours nice and gently, so you get the most out of your stock.

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Woodworking Talk


----------



## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Hey oldmac are you referring to Gray's Sawmill in Durant? 

Where about are you? I'm in Fannin County south of Ivanhoe 'tween Sherman & Paris. 




.


----------



## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

I don't have the means, either for cutting, but drying and prepping isn't a big issues.


----------

