# Mortise Tenon



## Vbryanv (Mar 16, 2017)

Just learned how to do a mortise Tenon joint on my router table. Still need some work before I actually make my door's for my cabinets. I'm using an up spiral 1/4 inch bit.. Cutting them 1.5 inches deep. My practice wood is pine 3/4 inch thick x 2.5 inchs. 
My question should I be using that bit for the tenon aswell. 
I have seen there are other ways as well but would like you get more comfortable with the router table. 
It was actually a lot easier that I thought. I guess I just have to stop being nervous and just get at it.. By no means are any of the first two I made even close to where I want to be at.. Just thought I would share just in case anyone else was concerned or thought maybe it was out of their wheelhouse. Give it a shot.. Not that bad.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

You could use the same router bit however what I would do is save the router bit and make the tenons on a table saw with a dado blade.


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## Vbryanv (Mar 16, 2017)

Steve Neul said:


> You could use the same router bit however what I would do is save the router bit and make the tenons on a table saw with a dado blade.


I have watched some videos on that but I feel like changing everything over from my regular blade to my dado stack takes too long.. Maybe If I had a bunch to do. 

I rather do my rabbets and dados on the router aswell. Like I said I've been trying to get more comfortable with the router table.. But then again I know there's no right way but is using the table saw for the tendon more efficient.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Vbryanv said:


> I have watched some videos on that but I feel like changing everything over from my regular blade to my dado stack takes too long.. Maybe If I had a bunch to do.
> 
> I rather do my rabbets and dados on the router aswell. Like I said I've been trying to get more comfortable with the router table.. But then again I know there's no right way but is using the table saw for the tendon more efficient.


The only reason I suggested the dado set is it doesn't take a lot of use to wear out a router bit.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*use the table saw for tenons*



Vbryanv said:


> I have watched some videos on that but I feel like changing everything over from my regular blade to my dado stack takes too long.. Maybe If I had a bunch to do.
> 
> I rather do my rabbets and dados on the router aswell. Like I said I've been trying to get more comfortable with the router table.. But then again I know there's no right way but is using the table saw for the tendon more efficient.


You don't need a dado set on the table saw, you can use just one single blade. There are many tenon jigs on You Tube for the table saw. Here's just one that rides along on the fence:






Here's one that shows a single blade as well as the dado set:


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## Vbryanv (Mar 16, 2017)

The only reason I suggested the dado set is it doesn't take a lot of use to wear out a router bit.[/QUOTE]

You are probably right.... A lot of others online have said the same. I purchased a yonico carbide bit. I know it's hard to say but how long do you think it would last. Enough to do maybe 50 of mortises.. Exactly like the one I just made. At that point I was planning on using the table saw for the tenion.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Vbryanv said:


> The only reason I suggested the dado set is it doesn't take a lot of use to wear out a router bit.


You are probably right.... A lot of others online have said the same. I purchased a yonico carbide bit. I know it's hard to say but how long do you think it would last. Enough to do maybe 50 of mortises.. Exactly like the one I just made. At that point I was planning on using the table saw for the tenion.[/QUOTE]A lot would depend on the type wood you are using. If you were using a wood like maple or oak I would think the bit would be getting pretty dull by the time you made 50 joints like that. If you had a lot to do I would recommend doing the mortises first and then the tenons. The plunge cut will put the most demand on the bit.


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## Vbryanv (Mar 16, 2017)

Steve Neul said:


> Vbryanv said:
> 
> 
> > The only reason I suggested the dado set is it doesn't take a lot of use to wear out a router bit.
> ...


A lot would depend on the type wood you are using. If you were using a wood like maple or oak I would think the bit would be getting pretty dull by the time you made 50 joints like that. If you had a lot to do I would recommend doing the mortises first and then the tenons. The plunge cut will put the most demand on the bit.[/QUOTE]

I am going to be using popular. Only going to use the router table for my mortises.. And the table saw for the tenons.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Vbryanv said:


> A lot would depend on the type wood you are using. If you were using a wood like maple or oak I would think the bit would be getting pretty dull by the time you made 50 joints like that. If you had a lot to do I would recommend doing the mortises first and then the tenons. The plunge cut will put the most demand on the bit.


I am going to be using popular. Only going to use the router table for my mortises.. And the table saw for the tenons.[/QUOTE]Poplar would be a lot more forgiving. Maple is very hard and oak tends to contain sand in the grain fibers which wears badly on tools.


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## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

I have several Yonico bits. One of them will hardly go in my 1/2" collet. Another one is an edge forming bit and I was getting tear out routing a circles edge. I was told to buy either Whiteside or Freud bits and this wouldn't happen. They were right. Even though the Yonico was new it wasn't sharp enough to make a smooth. I should say when routing a circle you do rout end grain in two places around the circle. End grain is where I was getting tear out. Here is a good place to buy Whiteside bits. No shipping or tax. You can buy as little as one or more.

https://www.hartvilletool.com/category/router-bits


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