# how to remove arbor housing on craftsman 113.299040?



## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

*Craftsman 113.Table Saw Rebuild-how to remove arbor housing on craftsman 113.299040?*

Can someone please tell me what all needs to be removed to take the bearing holder off the underneath of the saw? Is there some photos or videos showing the step by step details of this? There is 2 metal pivot pins I think which hold this arbor assembly on the trunnion but not sure how to knock them off the cradle or do you just slip this arbor holder off this pivot pin which his set in the cradle?. It is a 1976 saw- model 113.299040.

Also do you have to take the entire cradle off the top to do this or can you work it through the side? I put a photo to show the part I want to know how to remove.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Sears Parts Direct has a diagram*

http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/00001582-00002.png


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/00001582-00002.png


Thanks but I already have this parts list..they just do not show what needs to be taken off step by step. :smile:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Dunno if this discussion will help or not....the procedure should be about identical for the Ridgid 3650, but the part #'s mentioned are different.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*your photo threw me off*



yellowcat said:


> Thanks but I already have this parts list..they just do not show what needs to be taken off step by step. :smile:


You seem to be asking how do I remove the arbor housing from the carriage...yet you show it already removed...:blink:
Then I thought you must mean "How do I dis assemble the arbor housing" so I thought the diagram would help. Knotscott's description is very detailed so that should help.
However if you want to know how to remove the housing from the carriage, remove the clip(s) and it should pry off from the side.
Yeah, it would be a lot easier if the carriage was removed from the saw...BTDT a few times AND if the saw was upside down on the bench...BTDT myself. 
I'm assuming you want to replace the bearings as described in the Rigid article, because why else would you need it off?


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

This is a page I did years ago when I replaced mine:
http://benchnotes.com/ArborBearings/arborbearing.html


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

FrankC said:


> This is a page I did years ago when I replaced mine:
> http://benchnotes.com/ArborBearings/arborbearing.html


thanks for that info. i have two of those emerson electric built CI TSs and although i hope i never need this information, it's nice to have it now. i also think this is the type of info the OP was looking for.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> You seem to be asking how do I remove the arbor housing from the carriage...yet you show it already removed...:blink:
> Then I thought you must mean "How do I dis assemble the arbor housing" so I thought the diagram would help. Knotscott's description is very detailed so that should help.
> However if you want to know how to remove the housing from the carriage, remove the clip(s) and it should pry off from the side.
> Yeah, it would be a lot easier if the carriage was removed from the saw...BTDT a few times AND if the saw was upside down on the bench...BTDT myself.
> I'm assuming you want to replace the bearings as described in the Rigid article, because why else would you need it off?



The photo was just one I found on google to give some idea of what I was trying to remove. I was trying to remove it to replace the bearings. Just need to know how all this stuff is taken apart the easiest without breaking something. I bought this TS a few months ago dirt cheap and just now notice the bearings make a slight scratching and clattering noise when you spin the arbor. Arbor spins very loose and very very very little side to side slop in it..but the noise telles me to just put new bearings now. I tapped the arbor housing off today before I got a chance to read the other replies left here today . I used a brass drift from the side to knock it off...was very very stubborn coming off though. I noticed when it was off it was caked on with some rust and hard sludge on it. To slip it back on easier can you clean up the pivot pin with some fine sandpaper ?


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

FrankC said:


> This is a page I did years ago when I replaced mine:
> http://benchnotes.com/ArborBearings/arborbearing.html



This would been a lot better tutorial if the guy added more photos showing every piece he first started taking out with a separate photo. Also beating a bearing on with a pipe is not good..should be pressed on. Otherwise pretty good information.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*beating vs driving*



yellowcat said:


> This would been a lot better tutorial if the guy added more photos showing every piece he first started taking out with a separate photo. Also beating a bearing on with a pipe is not good..should be pressed on. Otherwise pretty good information.


Driving on the bearing with a suitable diameter pipe is OK if you don't "beat" on it. BTDT a few times. You can clean off the pins with a combination of WD 40 or other lube and some green nylon pad or 600 grit wet dry. You won't remove any metal just rust or crud.

Those 5/8" bearings are so common TSC has them hanging on their wall in the hydraulic part area. Emerson used them on the 6" jointers also. 

Take some photos as you go and then you can put up a good tutorial for other to see here. :thumbsup:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

yellowcat said:


> This would been a lot better tutorial if the guy added more photos showing every piece he first started taking out with a separate photo. Also beating a bearing on with a pipe is not good..should be pressed on. Otherwise pretty good information.


Sorry the article was not up to your standards, it was done as a request from a reader to my site long after I replaced the bearings. The two photos were taken by that reader when he did his, without any problems.

As for driving the bearing on with a pipe not everyone has a press in their woodworking shop and if they did have one they likely would not have to ask how to change a couple bearings.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

*some photos*

Today I got the arbor shaft out and that went smoothly. Only thing now  I need to pull the other bearing off the shaft. I noticed though the bearing on the pulley end with the 3 screw retainer came out so easy. One tap and it was out. I can almost press the old bearing in by hand. Is this normal? I did not yet try slipping in the new bearing as it got too late. Added a few photos of the arbor housing and the arbor off the old Craftsman. I am thinking this saw was made in 1977. Is there a way to tell more precise with the serial number off the saw?


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

Does anyone know which Company made the 1hp capacitor motors for this saw?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Probably Emerson Electric*

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?ID=222

Why do you ask? Need parts? :blink:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=286


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

yellowcat said:


> Does anyone know which Company made the 1hp capacitor motors for this saw?


if the model number starts with and is configured as follows: 113.######, then emerson electric motors were OEM on those saws. if there is a different model number prefix (first 3 numbers to the left of a period), then consult the index provided in the previous post.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

My new bearings press in by hand on the arbor housing. The old bearings came out easily also. Is this normal? The new bearings fit very tight on the arbor shaft though and it will need a lot of pressure to squeeze that down the shaft. I made a video so you can take a look and tell me what you think. My new bearings are 6202RS. Specs are suppose to be -INSIDE DIAMETER 0.625. OUTSIDE DIAMETER 1.376. WIDTH 0.432- at least that is what I was told when the guy sold them to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-gJ6MdtBCo&feature=youtu.be



I also notice some bearings with exact same size on box give different specs of the ID by a couple of thousandths....this is normal?


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

Not sure if I will post anymore more on this thread since I got no help on last question and sarcasm in some private messages....but here is one last question anyways. Does the collar that goes on this arbor shaft suppose to move up and down at all? Is this thing pressed on there and just held in place like the bearings? I had a friend saying he could press these 2 new bearings on for me and took the arbor with him. He brought it back and told me he could not do it because something was not lining up...big mistake letting him take it and screw things up. Now the collar where the saw blades sits up against is moved up the shaft about 1/4". I always thought this collar and shaft was all one piece turned on a lathe..apparently not?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*just push it back*

You could use an arbor press or a vise and a tube as long as the shaft fits within the vise's capacity. That collar is the inner flange for the blade if I recall. It's placement may not be terribly critical since a small gap could be taken up with a shim on the bearing side...you'd have to see. Too loose would be better than too tight, but maybe be a tap once in place would allow a proper fit. Too bad this happened. :thumbdown:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

yellowcat said:


> Not sure if I will post anymore more on this thread since I got no help on last question and sarcasm in some private messages....but here is one last question anyways. Does the collar that goes on this arbor shaft suppose to move up and down at all? Is this thing pressed on there and just held in place like the bearings? I had a friend saying he could press these 2 new bearings on for me and took the arbor with him. He brought it back and told me he could not do it because something was not lining up...big mistake letting him take it and screw things up. Now the collar where the saw blades sits up against is moved up the shaft about 1/4". I always thought this collar and shaft was all one piece turned on a lathe..apparently not?


The parts drawing shows the arbor shaft and collar as one number. Can't tell how it is fixed. There shouldn't be any slop on the backside of that collar to the bearing. Could be the collar stops on the bearing, and the circlips holding the bearing is what backs up the collar. I wouldn't think adding shims would be a viable fix. 








 







.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

Apparently this blade collar flange is pressed on at the factory because I took this arbor to another friend of mine with a 50ton hydraulic press and pushed the flange back up 1/4" to where it was before. Apparently when you add both bearings to each side of the arbor and press it everything will line itself up with about 4 tons of pressure.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

*Bearings for arbor*

Are Timken bearings the best you can buy and are they made in the USA? I had some new bearings i had for this arbor which were cheap imports..like $3 each....and they sound like gravel inside when you spend them fast. New bearings not suppose to make noise like this I am sure. These bearings are 6202RS and cross over to a Timken 202FFB


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

*113.***x motor rebuild*

Tearing down of the motor on this saw..stripping all paint and sandblasting..replacing some bad wires....re priming..here is some photos so far of the job.


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## silvster27 (Oct 17, 2013)

FrankC said:


> This is a page I did years ago when I replaced mine:
> http://benchnotes.com/ArborBearings/arborbearing.html


FrankC, How were you able to remove the small block on the arbor shaft? You can see the small block that I am talking about in the second picture of your instruction sheet. It is the small block that the allen bolt on the pulley tightens down onto.


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## yellowcat (Oct 31, 2012)

silvster27 said:


> FrankC, How were you able to remove the small block on the arbor shaft? You can see the small block that I am talking about in the second picture of your instruction sheet. It is the small block that the allen bolt on the pulley tightens down onto.



That small block is called a woodruff key. It most likely is seized tight in there with a little rust. Just spray a little liquid wrench around it and smack it out with a sharp chisel. You can buy another one for 50 cents.


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## rlynch109 (Oct 3, 2020)

do you know where i can buy the arbor for a craftman table saw 113.


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## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


Your best bet is Craigslist, if your willing to pay try looking for posts about "tools wanted" and see if they sell parts. There is a guy in the Seattle area that buys or finds free old table saws on Craigslist and then parts them out and sells them piece by piece to people looking for parts to repair there own table saws. I'm sure you can find a couple of people like that in your area, or keep an eye on Craigslist inorder to find one to use as a spare parts machine.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Ebay has a bunch of them*



rlynch109 said:


> do you know where i can buy the arbor for a craftsman table saw 113.


 Check out these arbors:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr..._osacat=0&_odkw=craftsman+table+saw+parts+113..


My question is why do you need one? Are the threads damaged? Do you just need new bearings? You can buy the separate parts also.
You need to post the entire model number for the best results here.


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## rlynch109 (Oct 3, 2020)

woodnthings said:


> http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/00001582-00002.png


I checked that site but they, craftman, does not make the arbor anymore. Any other places where I could buy the arbor?


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Your best bet is Craigslist or eBay, a new arbor is probably worth more that you would pay for a used parts saw. New bearings are relatively cheap and you will be good to go.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Let's start over here ....*



rlynch109 said:


> do you know where i can buy the arbor for a craftman table saw 113.


 YES 





woodnthings said:


> Check out these arbors:
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr..._osacat=0&_odkw=craftsman+table+saw+parts+113..
> 
> 
> ...



So why do you need one?




rlynch109 said:


> I checked that site but they, craftman, does not make the arbor anymore.
> 
> http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...1582-00002.png
> Any other places where I could buy the arbor?



I did not post that site recently. I did post the Ebay site above.
Did you check that link?


:nerd2:
This old thread was started:
11-22-2012, 02:10 AM
by yellowcat


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