# have some logs to be sawn, what size should I request?



## farmall (Jan 8, 2012)

Hey guys, I saw that my cousin was having some trees cut down. They were having them cut up in firewood length. I asked her if I could have some of the logs to have some lumber sawn. I caught the guys cutting in time to get 3 logs. I haven't actually measured the diameters yet but it looks like I have a red oak 9.5 feet long and 40 inches in diameter and a 10 foot long that is about 30 inches in diameter (on the narrow ends). There is also another log that I didnt even get real close to. I could seet that it was strait and not a lot of knots so I just told them to leave it alone. Now, my question is, how should I have it sawn? I don't have any specific projects in mind but just want to have it sawn and have for stock. Should I just go with 5/4 thick and take what he gives me?


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## ETWW (Mar 27, 2011)

I would quartersaw those large Oaks. The resulting lumber will be more attractive and much more stable. The drawback is that it will take longer to dry than flatsawn lumber.

I'd saw it mostly 4/4 (1 1/8") but I'd also get some 10/4 rift-sawn planks for leg stock.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

ETWW said:


> I would quartersaw those large Oaks. The resulting lumber will be more attractive and much more stable. The drawback is that it will take longer to dry than flatsawn lumber.
> 
> I'd saw it mostly 4/4 (1 1/8") but I'd also get some 10/4 rift-sawn planks for leg stock.


What does this mean? 4/4 (1 1/8")

George


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Some people I've sawn for wants everything cut an 1/8" over for shrinkage...but most don't want to pay for that 1/8". I think most do it due to production /speed cutting has some variance in thickness and they add for that.....just my OPINION.

Have a Blessed and prosperous evening in Jesus's Awesome Love,
Tim


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## Tom the Sawyer (Sep 4, 2012)

GeorgeC,

Sawyers have historically referred to the thicknesses they saw by the quarter inch. Therefore, 4/4 refers to 1" stock, 8/4 is 2" stock, etc. That was how you communicated to the sawyer what thickness you wanted. 

That may have been 'close enough' for mills many years ago (especially with circular mills where the blade was thicker than 1/4") but modern mills, especially bandsaw mills, have a much thinner kerf (and perhaps computer setworks) and are accurate to 1/8" - many to 1/16". :smile:

Generally you would saw about 1/4" thicker than your desired finish thickness so if you wanted to end up with 3/4" stock you would start with 4/4 and, after drying and planing, you should end up with 3/4" thick boards. 

Improved accuracy in mills has allowed us to be more specific about thicknesses. A person's experience with dryng and processing their lumber may affect the thickness at which they want it sawn. If you allow more than necessary then you will get fewer boards from your log and it will take more passes through the planer to get to final thickness. That experience may include kiln drying vs. air drying, figured woods that may cup more than straight grained boards. species with greater rates of shrinkage, etc. 

I discuss thicknesses with my clients before we start. If we agree on 1 1/16" for boards called out as "4/4" then if he changes to 10/4 then I'll set for 2 9/16", 7/4 will be 1 13/16", etc. Over the noise of the mill he can catch my eye and hold up 5 fingers - I'll know the thickness for the next board. :thumbsup:

I figure my sawing fees based on quarter inch increments so I'll saw at the thickness you specify (1", 1 1/16" or 1 1/8" all figure as 4/4). Discuss these types of things with your sawyer and you should be able to arrive at an appropriate milling thickness. We want you to be happy with your lumber and want to avoid any surprises. :yes:


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

I build tables and won't buy anything less than 6/4 and prefer 8/4, since they will need planed down after drying and usually a solid 1/4" is lost.
My tables are generally 1 1/2"+ thick finished and have bark on or live edge. Thinner doesn't accentuate a live edge well. The wider the slabs the better. 40" wide slabs are a premium to me, since a minimal width kitchen table is 36". Lengths can be as long as 10-11 ft

But that's me.


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

farmall said:


> Hey guys, I saw that my cousin was having some trees cut down. They were having them cut up in firewood length. I asked her if I could have some of the logs to have some lumber sawn. I caught the guys cutting in time to get 3 logs. I haven't actually measured the diameters yet but it looks like I have a red oak 9.5 feet long and 40 inches in diameter and a 10 foot long that is about 30 inches in diameter (on the narrow ends). There is also another log that I didnt even get real close to. I could seet that it was strait and not a lot of knots so I just told them to leave it alone. Now, my question is, how should I have it sawn? I don't have any specific projects in mind but just want to have it sawn and have for stock. Should I just go with 5/4 thick and take what he gives me?


Unless you have the equipment to re-saw and enjoy making chips from your planer and wasting wood, have several different thicknesses sawed where the man is in business to do that.

Think, I some day may want to make drawers or something along those lines where 1/2" milled lumber would be handy to pick from the storage rack. Having that available you can build projects rather than attempt to re-manufacture lumber.


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## farmall (Jan 8, 2012)

Thanks for the comments guys. DA Ardvark, I have been thinking a lot about that live edge table. That is what I really want to do. Could I ask for some instruction on keeping it stable after sawing? I know that it will be a premium piece of wood and don't ant to mess it up. Should it come right out of the center?


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

Center is good, since width is key on a kitchen table, but there are other uses for live edge.

Generally on live edge we are after things with uncommon grains , knots and even splits to bowtie. We use epoxy for filling voids.
On the wood, when you have uncommon grains, it is a challenge to keep the wood flat when drying, and I usually will get wood about 1/2 dried naturally and finish with a makeshift kiln. 
The problem with wild grains is they have a mind of their own and need stacked heavily with weight or even barclamped together while drying. Still some cupping/cracking and twisting takes place. 
Thus the reason for thicker cuts. Stability is better, and even after planning it will try to move again on you. Straight grains are far more stable, but to me they are boring and common.
I back up my slabs as soon as planed with a frame to lessen movement, but hey,,,,it's live edge and some flaws are expected and desired.

For a few projects and ideas heres a page from my site to see some live edge pieces.
It shows the process in short, to see how I've backed up certain pieces.
Hope you like em.
Bare with the page...it take a little time to load up.
Also note that some of the slab tables are not joined tight. It's my way of assuring the tight joint won't separate later due to wood movement, since this stuff will move even after totally finished.

http://gnarlywooddesigns.weebly.com/projects.html


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## farmall (Jan 8, 2012)

well now i have a decision to make. I have a friend that runs an excavating business that is going to help me move the logs on Saturday morning. I called the sawmill where I had planned to take them and he can't handle logs with a 43" diameter. I have called 6 others and no one can handle these logs. I really hate to turn these into firewood. Is anyone interested in some nice oak logs in southern VA? What can I do?


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## scsmith42 (Jan 24, 2011)

Farmall, I'm located just outside of Raleigh, NC, and may be interested in the logs. My mill can handle logs up to 60" in diameter.

It would help me a great deal if I could see clear photo's showing the ends of the logs, along with a photo or two showing the sides of the logs.

I'll send you a PM with my contact into. I'm actually driving up to S. VA later today to pick up some logs.

Thanks much.

Scott


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