# Accessories for table saw



## K1ngwind (Oct 13, 2021)

This is accessories for a table saw which to help you made thickness at from 2-3 mm and more. You'll can to use different plate for your needs.
What's do you think about this?
This will be for you helpful?
Kind regards from Russia.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Looks like a neat device. Have you made one and used it ... or is this just in the design phase?


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

It is a novel idea if you have a metal fence for the magnets to attach to, thanks for posting.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Can someone explain what it is and how it is used? I keep looking at the different images and how it sits in relation to the table saw fence. It looks simple, but how it works and how it is used eludes me.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Tool Agnostic said:


> Can someone explain what it is and how it is used? I keep looking at the different images and how it sits in relation to the table saw fence. It looks simple, but how it works and how it is used eludes me.


It's a thin stock "pusher" that creates it's own fence.
It magnetically attaches to the OEM fence, if it's steel, which is not typical so an alternative method would be required.
The thickness of the material can vary within the height of the vertical slots.
I assume it's still in the design stage rather than a working prototype by the graphic images.
I like the concept, but I would like to see a working model.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

It’s a good idea, but I’m not sure it’s necessary. But if it’s a safer way for you to work, go for it. IMO if the push shoe was wider to catch the off cut it would be better.

You can make a push shoe with a high side that slides along the fence by engaging either the lip or the whole the fence.

If you make sure your push block is fully flushed against the fence it’s extremely safe.

Either way, you can’t engage the wood until the end reached the fence. This is where a featherboard helps (TA😁). Sometimes my featherboard is just me holding some scrap cut at an angle. 

And double check that blade height!


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

This seems like a large jig for doing this. I like the micro jig sort of idea better.

If you modify it so the entire jig is a push block and the block rides along the fence, you can offset the handle and allow the use of a blade guard even on small pieces.


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## K1ngwind (Oct 13, 2021)

BigCountry79 said:


> This seems like a large jig for doing this. I like the micro jig sort of idea better.
> 
> If you modify it so the entire jig is a push block and the block rides along the fence, you can offset the handle and allow the use of a blade guard even on small pieces.


If you only make a pusher that would move along the fence, then there would be no support for the material itself.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

For me, its one too many parts. Only thing I want to worry about is the wood or ply I'm pushing through the saw. I will add accessories to a router table or shaper. Not so much on the tablesaw...


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

K1ngwind said:


> If you only make a pusher that would move along the fence, then there would be no support for the material itself.


I was thinking that the pusher would be the length of the workpiece.

I don't really like that idea either, but it would allow the blade guard to be used in a narrow rip


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

The push block slides through a track in the base. It's designed to allow the cutting of thin strips. The plate shown on the drawing would allow strip of a millimeter or so and would continue to push the thin strip out of the saw area. 
I think the best part is that you could cut identically thin strips.


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## JayArr (Sep 18, 2018)

I like it but I'm nervous about pushing a metal plate past my blade.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Okay, now I get it. 

Q: What keeps the workpiece from drifting towards the blade, and causing a kickback?


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## mlpar (Oct 16, 2021)

JayArr said:


> I like it but I'm nervous about pushing a metal plate past my blade.


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## mlpar (Oct 16, 2021)

use a wood plate and a piece of wood know as fingers so you can set your table saw.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

The plate could be made from wood as wide as you want, first cut would just notch bottom to width of strip similar to a push shoe.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

It will only work for pieces short enough for the pusher foot to hook into. It wouldn't work for 8 ft long stock as I understand it, unless the main body with the groove is quite long. However, you could start the long strip with the pusher up out of the way, then drop it down for the last 12" to 18" or so for the final push where you're going past the blade.

The same approach would be to cut about 10" to 16" in from one end, then flip it end for end and complete the long, final cut. This means that the opposite face will be down on the table for the final cut, maybe an issue, I donno? Both faces need to be made parallel in that case, out of the thickness planer.

For those with a Biesmeyer style rectangular fence, a "slip on" pusher would do the same thing. The advantage being no chance of the pusher wandering into the blade and getting chewed up AND it can be thicker to allowing it to catch the last few strips on the workpiece for minimal waste. This would be my choice for this type of "thin strip" pushing device.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

A fence and tenon jig. Saw this on BobVanDyke’s set up in a FWW’ing video. Works great.


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## JIMDC49 (Oct 17, 2021)

If I need some 1/16" - 1/2" stock, I adjust my fence to cut the wanted thickness pieces to the outside of the blade.


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## Colosnoball (Oct 16, 2021)

K1ngwind said:


> This is accessories for a table saw which to help you made thickness at from 2-3 mm and more. You'll can to use different plate for your needs.
> What's do you think about this?
> This will be for you helpful?
> Kind regards from Russia.
> ...


K1ngwind,
That's a really great jig for thin strip production. A zero tolerance throat plate for the table saw would enhance the work. Nice design!


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## K1ngwind (Oct 13, 2021)

Thanks.


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## JIMDC49 (Oct 17, 2021)

JIMDC49 said:


> If I need some 1/16" - 1/2" stock, I adjust my fence to cut the wanted thickness pieces to the outside of the blade.


I want to add more info to this. If I want 10 pieces 1/8" x 2" x 12", I would start with 10 pieces that are 2" x 4" x 12". Set the fence at 3 3/4". You can move the fence accordingly if you need more pieces. Much safer and easier.


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## JIMDC49 (Oct 17, 2021)

And you can do much longer lengths.


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## K1ngwind (Oct 13, 2021)

JIMDC49 said:


> I want to add more info to this. If I want 10 pieces 1/8" x 2" x 12", I would start with 10 pieces that are 2" x 4" x 12". Set the fence at 3 3/4". You can move the fence accordingly if you need more pieces. Much safer and easier.


Yes, but you will not sure that all of pieces to be similar thin because you change position a fence all the time.
And if you need big length?
In different cases - different do.
Have many variants to do it. 
It's just one of them.


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## JIMDC49 (Oct 17, 2021)

K1ngwind said:


> Yes, but you will not sure that all of pieces to be similar thin because you change position a fence all the time.
> And if you need big length?
> In different situations - different do.


If I start with 10 boards that are the same size, I am going to get 10 slices the same size. The blade is 1/8". It is easy to adjust fence to match. I could do 10' lengths this way if I want.


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## JIMDC49 (Oct 17, 2021)

The sander will make up the difference.


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## Colosnoball (Oct 16, 2021)

But if you want to make 1000 pieces all the same, the jig works, no sanding afterwards needed.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Colosnoball said:


> But if you want to make 1000 pieces all the same, the jig works, no sanding afterwards needed.


Why would you not sand or plane? Building a canoe?

I cut a lot of thin strips. No jig, but I like to plane to size..


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## Colosnoball (Oct 16, 2021)

Rebelwork said:


> Why would you not sand or plane? Building a canoe?
> 
> I cut a lot of thin strips. No jig, but I like to plane to size..
> View attachment 431837


Rebel-- beautiful oval frame you've got underway in the pictures. Did you steam the pieces before clamping? I agree that final dimensioning is a good idea, especially if you are not using the ideal new saw blade on the table saw that gives you flawless smooth cuts.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

No there too thin to worry about.... Glue and clamp...


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