# Creating a Mortise



## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

I have never done a mortise & tenon joint. I'm building a small side table and it's a good opportunity to use M&Ts. I have looked at several videos and everyone seems to have their own "best" way of creating the mortise, such as drill press and clean up with a chisel, plunge router, or router table. 

I'm leaning toward using either the router table or the drill press. 

For those of you that have used both methods in the past, which one is your preference and why?

Thanks.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

How deep are you wanting to go?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

For a beginner, I recommend a drill press and a "mortising chisel" which is different than a Stanley handyman's chisel.
A mortising chisel is meant to be pried on in narrow openings and will take a heavy blow on the end with a mallet.
The Stanley can be used to pare away the sides of the opening/mortise once you get enough holes drilled.

Having said that, I own a dedicated hollow chisel mortiser 3/4 HP Powermatic, a great machine with different size drills/chisels.
I used it for a few mortises but I didn't like how much down pressure it took. I probably didn't have it adjusted properly.
I ended up making a "self-centering" router jig for my Porter Cable 690 router. That made mortises 5X easier and faster.
I would make my mortises first, then pare the tenons to a close fit by trial and error.








Mission Quilt Rack







www.woodworkingtalk.com


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Rebelwork said:


> How deep are you wanting to go?


The legs will be tapered. They are 1.5 inches square at the top. About 1/2 inch below where the aprons attach the legs will taper from 1.5 inches to 7/8 inch at the bottom. I’m thinking the mortise depth will be 3/4”.

The aprons are 13/16” thick. I’m planning on the tenons being 3/8” thick.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> For a beginner, I recommend a drill press and a "mortising chisel" which is different than a Stanley handyman's chisel.
> A mortising chisel is meant to be pried on in narrow openings and will take a heavy blow on the end with a mallet.
> The Stanley can be used to pare away the sides of the opening/mortise once you get enough holes drilled.


When I was planning this project I did purchase a set of mortising chisels. I should have mentioned that I had those.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

Tom-G said:


> When I was planning this project I did purchase a set of mortising chisels. I should have mentioned that I had those.


Where are you in learning to sharpen them? That's the essential first thing. I've barely started with sharpening.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

3/4 you could just set up a router...


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Bob Bengal said:


> Where are you in learning to sharpen them? That's the essential first thing. I've barely started with sharpening.


I have a Veritas Mk.II honing guide that I use for my plane irons. I have to look at it to see if it can be used for the thicker mortising chisels. You do make a good point as I have not sharpened them yet.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Do you have a plunge router?

I'm a fan of using a plunge router with spiral bits for mortises. You can simply use the router bit with the diameter you want for the mortise which makes it pretty easy.

The mortising jig can be like the one posted above by Rebelwork, a simple fence on the edge guide, or a more involved, adjustable one that holds the workpiece and the router. Lots of options.


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

Tom-G said:


> I have never done a mortise & tenon joint. I'm building a small side table and it's a good opportunity to use M&Ts. I have looked at several videos and everyone seems to have their own "best" way of creating the mortise, such as drill press and clean up with a chisel, plunge router, or router table.
> 
> I'm leaning toward using either the router table or the drill press.
> 
> ...


How you cut your mortises is not that important. Like you stated, there are a number of ways of doing so. What I do believe is important is that the edge of the mortise is perfectly parallel to the face of the board, and that the mortise is centered. The size of the mortise is not critical as I fit each tenon to it's respective mortise. The reason being centered is important is by doing it that way, what you do to one cheek of the tenon, you do to the other. Now, there are times when offset mortises are required by design, but er will not go there. Do if you are cutting a 1/4" mortise on a router table, I would center to the best of your ability, run one face against the fence, flip the board and run the other side against the fence. I happen to use a hollow chisel mortiser on a floor model drill press or a plunge router. If using a router you want to make multiple passes before you reach your final depth.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

sanchez said:


> I'm a fan of using a plunge router with spiral bits for mortises. You can simply use the router bit with the diameter you want for the mortise which makes it pretty easy.


That leaves the corners of the mortise rounded. I haven't done either yet but I've seen this handled 2 ways, both seem to work well.

Use a chisel to square the corners.

Use a rasp etc to round the corners of the tenons.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

sanchez said:


> Do you have a plunge router?
> 
> I'm a fan of using a plunge router with spiral bits for mortises. You can simply use the router bit with the diameter you want for the mortise which makes it pretty easy.
> 
> The mortising jig can be like the one posted above by Rebelwork, a simple fence on the edge guide, or a more involved, adjustable one that holds the workpiece and the router. Lots of options.


I do have a plunge router. However, in general, I find it easier and quicker to use my router table. With that said, I have never used it or my plunge router for a mortise. For that matter, I have not used my drill press for them either! I do have both 1/4" and 3/8" up-cut spiral router bits on order. 

This is a little off topic but it's a very frustrating point with me: 

Concerning my plunge router, it's this Milwaukee kit which I bought several years ago. Notice anything missing from the kit?









Milwaukee 2-1/4 Max-Horsepower EVS Multi-Base Router Kit with Plunge Base and BodyGrip Fixed Base 5616-24 - The Home Depot


The Milwaukee Multi-Base Router Kit with Plunge Base and BodyGrip Fixed Base offers superior design and best in class features for professionals. You can adjust the router's linear depth at both micro



www.homedepot.com





No edge guide! After I bought it and realized it was not included I looked for the Milwaukee edge guide (part # 49-54-1035) only to find out they had discontinued it! I had found some discussions at various websites that Porter Cable edge guides would fit with modifications. As I recall, the PC guides had 8MM rods and the Milwaukee router needed smaller 7MM rods. So I only use that router with bearing router bits.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

I say use your chisels. Even for a beginner, by the time you fiddle around setting up a router you’ll have 3, 4 may 5 done. A paring block helps, if needed.

Not to mention the soulful satisfaction of hand work. No screeching routers, no dust spewed everywhere, no dust mask……..just you, your chisels and your mallet 😌

Do the mortises first. How will you do tenons? Do you have a router plane or shoulder plane?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Bob Bengal said:


> That leaves the corners of the mortise rounded. I haven't done either yet but I've seen this handled 2 ways, both seem to work well.
> 
> Use a chisel to square the corners.
> 
> Use a rasp etc to round the corners of the tenons.


I usually just take a razor knife or chisel to round. Takes a few seconds. The thickness needs to be correct but the length doesn’t…


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

DrRobert said:


> Do the mortises first. How will you do tenons? Do you have a router plane or shoulder plane?


Yes, I'm doing the mortises first and then will cut the tenons to fit. I do not have a router plane or a shoulder plane, so I'll probable use my table saw or bandsaw to cut the tenons.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Tom-G said:


> Yes, I'm doing the mortises first and then will cut the tenons to fit. I do not have a router plane or a shoulder plane, so I'll probable* use my table saw or bandsaw to cut* the tenons.


I used to make tenons on the table saw using a vertical holding jig. No more! I now use the bandsaw with two different stops on the fence.
I use one stop for the length of the tenons, flipping it over and making two passes. I use another stop for the shoulder flipping and making two passes.
A sharp blade and an accurate fence setting will give you precise tenons ready for glue ups.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Table saw would be easier for me. I use to do them too often..


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> Table saw would be easier for me. I use to do them too often..


I would not want to stand a 5 ft board on end on the table saw, in a tenon jig, BTDT.
Bandsaws will not have that issue.
On a table saw you are cutting across the ends possibly at maximum blade height, not so easy on the saw.
You'll need a 50 tooth blade for best results, a crosscut 60 tooth will work, but not as well.

There's a missing photo of the face cut. It does require 3 separate cuts X two:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Neither will a set of dados.

What are you working with? Maybe a 6x6 post?


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Bob Bengal said:


> That leaves the corners of the mortise rounded. I haven't done either yet but I've seen this handled 2 ways, both seem to work well.
> 
> Use a chisel to square the corners.
> 
> Use a rasp etc to round the corners of the tenons.


You can also mortise both sides of the joint and make floating tenons. You round over the edges of the tenon stock to match the radius of the bit you used for the mortises.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

I gotta agree with Dr Robert. 4 m&t by chisel and hammer is easy peasy and has the personal satisfaction of a job well done


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Yeah, by hand is way easier if you only have a few. Router is easier when you have many.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

sanchez said:


> Yeah, by hand is way easier if you only have a few. Router is easier when you have many.


I made a self-centering router jig when I needed to make 30 some mortise for a quilt rack:


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## kwoodhands (May 1, 2020)

Tom-G said:


> I have never done a mortise & tenon joint. I'm building a small side table and it's a good opportunity to use M&Ts. I have looked at several videos and everyone seems to have their own "best" way of creating the mortise, such as drill press and clean up with a chisel, plunge router, or router table.
> 
> I'm leaning toward using either the router table or the drill press.
> 
> ...


I have used a mortising machine, drill press with morise attachment, by hand with brace , auger bit and a chisel. My favorite way is a horizontal router. My router base is shop made and swings on an arc for height adjustment. Depth is controlled by setting the cutter to full depth and use filler strips to adjust the depth of cut. Example, 2" deep mortise ,
1-5/8" strip ,1-1/4" strip etc.
mike


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

I got a smokin' deal years ago on a Central Machinery mortising machine and it does what it is upposed to do. HOWEVER, they are off the market now, and have been for some time. And the cheapest mortiser I know of is the Wen at nearly $500.00 that might not be something you will want to do. Thus a pluge router and mortising guide / jig would probably be your best bet.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> I would not want to stand a 5 ft board on end on the table saw, in a tenon jig, BTDT.
> Bandsaws will not have that issue.
> On a table saw you are cutting across the ends possibly at maximum blade height, not so easy on the saw.
> You'll need a 50 tooth blade for best results, a crosscut 60 tooth will work, but not as well.
> ...


I've never considered using my band saw for tenoning. Will definately give that a few whacks starting off with some cheap can make plenty of screwups type lumber... Worth a shot.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

dbhost said:


> I've never considered using my band saw for tenoning. Will definately give that a few whacks starting off with some cheap can make plenty of screwups type lumber... Worth a shot.


I have a project coming up in a couple of months that will require quite a few tenons. I've seen a band saw used before, but also never considered it. I saw a video last week that got me to thinking about trying it.

Let me know what you come up with for "some cheap can make plenty of screwups type lumber." I don't think we have any of that around here anymore.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Try the bandsaw. Let us know how it works for you..


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Everyone - thank you for your comments and the overall discussion. The Whiteside up-cut spiral router bit I had ordered arrived over the weekend. I had my plunge router out thinking about making a mortising attachment, but looked over at my router table and figured I'd first try one mortise on it. Really pleased with the results. I set the fence once and cut all of the 3/8" wide mortises. I did 1/4" depth first, then increased to 1/2", and the third pass at 3/4" depth. 

I have 4 small (1/4" wide) mortises to still do. I plan on doing those with my mortising chisels once I sharpen them.

For the tenons, I'm thinking about trying both the table saw and bandsaw. It's a technique I saw on a Fine Woodworking Magazine video. Basically use the table saw to first cut all of the shoulders. Then the bandsaw to cut the cheeks. However I have to put this project on hold for the remainder of the week as I have some yard projects that need to be done.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Looks good, and cleaner than my floor mortiser, too.

How about floating tenons? Round them over - no chiselling square.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

Floating tenons are great!


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Woodworking Wolf said:


> I have a project coming up in a couple of months that will require quite a few tenons. I've seen a band saw used before, but also never considered it. I saw a video last week that got me to thinking about trying it.
> 
> Let me know what you come up with for "some cheap can make plenty of screwups type lumber." I don't think we have any of that around here anymore.



Sorry when I say cheap can make plenty of screwups type lumber, I am specifically referring to scraps of 2x whatever dimensional lumber. There is still a lot of construction going on in my area, and i can scrounge up bits and pieces of 2x4s, 2x6s etc... for free pretty frequently, nothing I would want to necessarily use in a project, but then again, most of my shop projects are cast offs, scraps, or reclaimed bits and bobs...


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## BigCountry79 (Jun 2, 2021)

One trick I've used in the router table is to keep a few scraps of 1/4" and 1/2" plywood handy, route initial passes with those under your workpiece, then remove them to route deeper. Drill a hole in them so the bit has clearance.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

As this is my first attempt at M&T joinery, I want to cut the tenons on the ends of the aprons. However I will try floating tenons on a future project. Then I can decide which type I prefer going forward after that.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

Tom-G said:


> For the tenons, I'm thinking about trying both the table saw and bandsaw. It's a technique I saw on a Fine Woodworking Magazine video. Basically use the table saw to first cut all of the shoulders.


I think that may be the same video I mentioned in an earlier post. I think cutting the shoulders on the table saw would give a clean, square cut and nice joint line.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

DrRobert said:


> How about floating tenons? Round them over - no chiselling square.


I like the idea, especially since all of your mortises are the same thickness. Get the thickness of the floating tenon right, and you are set to go. But how would you cut a mortises in the end of, say, a 2" wide board that is 5' long? I generally cut my mortises the way @Tom-G described, on the router table. It has always worked perfectly for me, with the exception being the time I was in a hurry and tried to cut the depth all in one cut. Snapped the bit off.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Woodworking Wolf said:


> I like the idea, especially since all of your mortises are the same thickness. Get the thickness of the floating tenon right, and you are set to go. But how would you cut a mortises in the end of, say, a 2" wide board that is 5' long? I generally cut my mortises the way @Tom-G described, on the router table. It has always worked perfectly for me, with the exception being the time I was in a hurry and tried to cut the depth all in one cut. Snapped the bit off.


That where you need a horizontal setup, either a homemade set up with a sliding table, or pantarouter.

I bought the MLCS set up from a guy and used it once. Without a sliding table, it’s useless to me.

If I was thinking about buying a floor mortiser I would get a horizontal slot mortiser instead.

Or a DominoXL 😳. Let’s see, if you did 1700 mortises, that $1 a mortise?

I don’t do tenons on a bandsaw but if you’re set up good, I think it’s a viable option. My main objection is a accuracy, a bandsaw is fine if you’re using hand tools to fettle the tenon and it’s perfectly centered.

I used this tenon jig (Steve Latta) for a while but reverted back to a dado b/c I can dial in the tenon to within thousandths. If the tenon is slightly off center it doesn’t matter b/c you do one side then the other. I can usually fit a tenon right off the machine and the tenon faces will be perfectly parallel to the board.


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## bholland (Sep 10, 2018)

Tom-G said:


> I have never done a mortise & tenon joint. I'm building a small side table and it's a good opportunity to use M&Ts. I have looked at several videos and everyone seems to have their own "best" way of creating the mortise, such as drill press and clean up with a chisel, plunge router, or router table.
> 
> I'm leaning toward using either the router table or the drill press.
> 
> ...


Festool has a domino. It has saved me thousands of dollars and time. That is my first go to. My second would be a router table. This is particularly true if you need a wierd size mortise. For the tenon, table saw with the tenon brace. 

But honestly, the festool sander and domino are extremely good tools. Expensive but very very good. I don't know if it is more expensive than a router table though. Those lifts can run a lot and you want a table that is well made.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

I have a router table that I used for the mortises (see post #29). Project is on hold for a week or so as I'm doing yard projects then I'll do the tenons. The Festool Domino is a really nice tool but isn't an option for me due to the cost.


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## Fritz_from_PA (Jul 25, 2019)

Look at Robert's advice above. Use your chisels. And then use a router plane to make your tenons. Google Paul Sellers advice on how to do all of this on YouTube.


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## GoBigC (Oct 6, 2021)

woodnthings said:


> For a beginner, I recommend a drill press and a "mortising chisel" which is different than a Stanley handyman's chisel.
> A mortising chisel is meant to be pried on in narrow openings and will take a heavy blow on the end with a mallet.
> The Stanley can be used to pare away the sides of the opening/mortise once you get enough holes drilled.
> 
> ...


If you have hogged out the bulk of the material with a drill press, a standard beveled edge chisel works just fine for cleaning up mortises, however, the flat sides of a mortising chisel do tend to keep the chisel parallel to the sides of the slot. I used a standard chisel for years for cleaning up mortises with zero issues. If you want a mortise chisel, I'd look at the Narex brand as a beginner tool. Decent quality and a very good price point. I've had my set for 3 years and have had zero problems. Just keep 'em sharp and they should last you a lifetime.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Bob Bengal said:


> Where are you in learning to sharpen them? That's the essential first thing. I've barely started with sharpening.





Tom-G said:


> I have a Veritas Mk.II honing guide that I use for my plane irons. I have to look at it to see if it can be used for the thicker mortising chisels. You do make a good point as I have not sharpened them yet.


Just as a follow up to this, Veritas makes a "Mortise Chisel Adapter" for the Mk.II honing guide:



https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/jigs-mounts-and-rests/74894-mortise-chisel-adapter-for-veritas-mk-ii-narrow-blade-honing-guide?item=05M0912


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

I’m building a couple of the Tom Laughlin Adirondack chairs and did a few mortises with the router and floating tenons. My first time making templates and it worked out well.

Even with the wrong bit, I had a good result. After I was done I spotted a 1/2” spiral bit in the drawer I knew I had but “couldn’t find”.

I wish I had a router with decent dust collection. Has anyone ever rigged up a dc using the flex hose?


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Tom-G said:


> Just as a follow up to this, Veritas makes a "Mortise Chisel Adapter" for the Mk.II honing guide:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/jigs-mounts-and-rests/74894-mortise-chisel-adapter-for-veritas-mk-ii-narrow-blade-honing-guide?item=05M0912


Mortise chisels are actually pretty easy to sharpen by hand because of the long bevel. Trickiest part is keeping the edge square.


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

DrRobert said:


> I wish I had a router with decent dust collection. Has anyone ever rigged up a dc using the flex hose?


Do you want the hose attached to your router or just near the mortise? For the latter a shop vac + that hose would just get some. I think better would be a high flow system with a good sized intake, maybe like turners use.

For attaching to the router a normal hose is better. Which router and base are you using?


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

Have you considered the Oneida router base with dust collection?









Dust-Free Router Hood Kits | Oneida Air Systems


Finally, an effective dust control solution that fits nearly any fixed-base and plunge style router. Upgrade to a clean router today!




www.oneida-air.com





I personally haven’t tried it.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Bob Bengal said:


> Do you want the hose attached to your router or just near the mortise? For the latter a shop vac + that hose would just get some. I think better would be a high flow system with a good sized intake, maybe like turners use.
> 
> For attaching to the router a normal hose is better. Which router and base are you using?


I’m using a PC 690 plunge. I think that flex tube might work on short slots.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Sometimes its a good idea to look at your tools!!


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## Bob Bengal (Jan 2, 2021)

DrRobert said:


> Sometimes its a good idea to look at your tools!!


Do you mean your router already had the accessories for hooking up a vacuum? How well is it working for the mortises?

In some situations the vacuum on my DeWalt 618 plunge base works great, other times less so.


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Yes, I completely didn't think about the Triton it until I looked on the shelf. I guess b/c its so heavy I don't think about using it as a handheld.

It worked fantastic. Just a little vacuum of the mortise when done.


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