# TS Fence and Router Extension Wing



## kingswarrior777 (Dec 4, 2008)

I am working on a plan to spend some Christmas money in the range of about $350.00 and I wanted to get some feed back to see what others have done. Most of my equipment was handed down to me from my Grandfather and I don't have money to replace anything with brand new equipment, so I have decided to setup / fix / upgrade the tools I was given. Previously all of my projects have been in turning but I recently made some cutting boards and would really like to start some bigger projects using right angles. But alas my table saw is not accurate enough. (Really crappy fence) And my Router table is worthless

Desire: Table saw fence upgrade & Router Table

Tools: Delta 34-710 Super 10 Motorized Saw & Ryobi 2.25 HP plunge router

My thoughts are to upgrade my table saw fence and put the router table in the right wing of the table saw because space is at a premium. I am looking for a system that would work well together, but might also be friendly on a lower budget. I could get the fence now and then add the router to the wing later, but I really wanted to know what the best options were since I am planning on doing both. I know incra has a system that all works together, but that might be a little big and pricey for my uses.

Delta TS? Accufence? Incra? Jointech? Etc...

Let me know what you think!


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Do some searching here....theres been lots of discussion on the subject.

One things for sure....after awhile,everyone has their likes N dislikes.Some will make-do with a particular set-up,not desiring to effect a change for whatever reason?.....Kinda round about way of saying you're just not going to be able to answer the RT/TS question,deffinatively.It might be the absolute hot-ticket in one shop.....then the next place,its much more of a burden.

There are ways to integrate a "stand alone" RT(router table)....into the TS(table saw) however.But it would take some pretty close tolerances and well thought out plan.But it can be done.....In that way you could have your cake and eat it too.Good luck,BW


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*motorized?*

http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=utf-8&fr=ytff1-tyc7&p=Delta 34-710 Super 10 Motorized Saw&type=

That saw has a brush type universal AC?DC motor if I'm correct, like a Skil saw. That ain't the best type, like a AC only induction motor, found on contractor saws and cabinet saws. So, I personally wouldn't put any money into a fence for that saw, but rather upgrade to a more substantial saw, used ones are fine with a separate motor. Now it may last 10 years, who knows, but once you get a rugged cast irontop saw, you will not regret it.

If you do build a router wing on to any table saw, plan on using it's own separate fence. Changing a perfectly dialed in router fence setting to rip another length of stock just won't cut it in my shop.  bill


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I believe that saw has a built in motor (direct drive) I wouldn't want to put much money into it. 
Before you do anything, I would be sure the blade is parallel to the miter slots, and adjust if not. Doing this could be an experience. If you can't get this set right, there is no reason to get a new fence.

With $350 to spend, you should be able to buy a decent used contractor saw.

If you want to get a new fence, a Delta T-2 fence (about $160) would be the best bet for the $. 

If you have a fence system with long rails, to attach to, it is easy to make an extension table, and put a router in it. I made one for my saw. I first clamped a wood fence to the ts fence for router use, but that got old, when I needed to make a quick rip cut, and had to loose my router fence setup, in order to make a rip cut. a couple of t tracks and a separate router fence solved that.

Good luck with it.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Not sure what other tools you have, but here is a good deal on an old Shopsmith 10ER. I have had one for 30+ years, and even though I now have separate tools, I kept it, fopr use as a lathe, and 12" disk sander, and horizontal drilling.
It's junk as far as a table saw goes.

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/2772859764.html


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

In addition to being direct drive and having a universal motor, I don't think that saw is full size either, so it might be more difficult to fit an aftermarket fence on. (full size is 27" deep across the table). I understand the sentimental value, but it's a tool I'd consider selling so you could put the money toward a saw with more upgrade potential in the future. It'd likely fetch $100-$175 if it's in nice shape and cleaned up. 

If you decide to hang on to it, be sure it's aligned, and give it a good value 3/32" thin kerf blade like a Freud Diablo D1040 or D1050, CMT ITK Plus P10050, or DeWalt Precision Trim DW7150PT ($30-$40). The Delta T2 is about the best bang for the buck at ~ $150, and would make more sense in this situation than an Incra, Biesemeyer, etc. 

Keep us posted! :thumbsup:


----------



## kingswarrior777 (Dec 4, 2008)

So if I am not mistaken, most of you are recomending that I ditch the saw and go for a new one. 

That kind of sucks because this one belonged to my grandpa and he is no longer with us. If anyone has this saw and has referbed it, I would love to hear what you have done.

On the other hand, a new saw would be awesome! I am looking for good suggestions of a good reliable saw that won't break the bank but is accurate and can handle most tasks.

Regards, 

KingsWarrior777


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*this would be Ok*

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/2713550877.html
Reasonable price, saw, fence is marginal but all else is OK. "Rarely Used" as well...:blink: bill


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

kingswarrior777 said:


> So if I am not mistaken, most of you are recomending that I ditch the saw and go for a new one.
> 
> That kind of sucks because this one belonged to my grandpa and he is no longer with us. If anyone has this saw and has referbed it, I would love to hear what you have done.
> 
> ...


I fully understand the sentiment. My Grandfather's hand plane is near and dear to me....in hindsight, I'm kinda glad he didn't have a TS to pass down b/c I would have wanted to keep it regardless whether or not it was any good. You could always put a decent blade on it, start saving for your own saw, and keep Grandpa's saw for backup or special purpose. There are also some saw station's that will help offset the size, and you can actually add a better fence to the saw cart.


----------



## kingswarrior777 (Dec 4, 2008)

I have taken quite a bit of advice from all of you and I am currently contemplating my next move. Part of me would love to buy a nice hybrid saw brand new with all the safty bells and whistles, but another part of me wants to referb this one. I guess I will just have to use this for a while longer before sinking any money into it and decide how much and what I would really want to do with it.

Anyone know any good instructions for tuning up a saw like this? I found it a little difficult to just loosen the screws and tap the top into position to get the miters to line up with the blade.

Thanks,

KingsWarrior777


----------



## kingswarrior777 (Dec 4, 2008)

That is one heck of a saw cab. Where did you see the plans for that, or is it all original. THat might be perfect for my shop because of my little to no space. I could even put a router in the top of one of those and possibly use the whole thing as an assembly table. 







[/QUOTE]


----------



## kingswarrior777 (Dec 4, 2008)

Pirate said:


> Not sure what other tools you have, but here is a good deal on an old Shopsmith 10ER. I have had one for 30+ years, and even though I now have separate tools, I kept it, fopr use as a lathe, and 12" disk sander, and horizontal drilling.
> It's junk as far as a table saw goes.
> 
> http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/2772859764.html


So if the machine sucks as a table saw, why would I want it? (Real question, not trying to be sarcastic.)

As a side note, I have almost a full shop going on. Radial Arm Saw, two lathes, an old craftsmen and a decent Jet (one of the blue ones!), Bandsaw, sander, etc.

I know a lot of people put a lot of stock into their shop smiths, but I realyl don't see the point of them unless that is the only thing you have / can afford and you acctually have no space to work in. Perhaps I missed the point of them, since they do seem pretty cool in concept.

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate the reply.


----------



## yocalif (Nov 11, 2010)

kingswarrior, what the above are trying to tell you is, bottom line, after you spend your money to restore your GP saw, you still won't like it. The more woodworking you do the more precision and performance you want. Direct drive saws just don't "cut it". So instead of dumping money that isn't easy to come by into something that won't have anything more than sentimental value when you really want performance, replace or buy another saw with that same money. You can keep GP saw and restore it at your leisure and use it for quick cuts not requiring precison or sell it to recoup some of the money for the newer saw. 

I did a check around your area on Craigslist, and at the moment there isn't much to choose from. You say you have a tight budget $350 for both saw and router table extension.

Here is a saw that is very similar to GP saw, but is in good condition and has belt drive, and you can remove the stamped steel wing and replace with a larger wing with your router. You might even get this saw for a little less.
ROCKWELL 10" HEAVY DUTY TABLESAW - $190 (CORNWALL PA )

Sears contractors saw - $300 (Fredericksburg/N va.)
PostingID: 2728440328

10 inch Jet Tablesaw - $400 (Springfield)
PostingID: 2736761652

Understand to have more options if you have to be willing to look in a wider range, and willing to drive. Any saw that you are interested in that is more than 25 miles away, with the cost of gas you won't be driving just to look, you will have got all the details, additional pics, and discussed price either via email or on the phone. Finalize everything except final price (until you actually see what you are buying), your trip is to go get the saw and exchange the money, only some big surprise the seller failed to reveal will prevent you from driving home with that saw.

Note I do not recommend any of the above saws, my only actual experience is with Craftsman 22114 & 22124 which I highly recommend. As for the prices asked for the above saw, if you are interested in any, post here in this thread and those who have knowledge will guide you on price.

If you are on a tight budget, waiting for the right saw to come up on Craigslist can be very rewarding. KEY IS PATIENCE! Also while your waiting save even more money and instead of $350 you might have $550 which could get you into a whole new level of saws.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Putting a good fence on a direct drive saw, or building an big enclosure around it, is like putting lipstick on a pig. Still a pig.
Just my .02

As far as an old shopsmith. If you don't have 12' disc sander, lathe, and a drill press, and may not have the funds for them for a while, a Shopsmith can get you by.
I bought my 10ER around 1984, and even though I now have stationary tools, I still keep the SM. I may need a lathe 2 times a year, and can't justify buying one. Same for a 12" disc.

Not to mention a used 10er can usually be had for $100 - $200.


----------



## kingswarrior777 (Dec 4, 2008)

Ok, I have been doing quite a bit of research and for the money it appears that the Ridgid R4512 might just be the best bang for the buck with out getting too expensive. At $499.00 there does not seem to be a saw close to that with the features, ratings or reputation. Haven't really seen a bad post about one yet. 

Let me know what you guys think and if any of you have any first hand experience with this one.


----------



## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

king i have an R4512, and while its not a cab. saw i am pleased with it so far. i cant speak on the OEM fence on them because i upgraded to a delta t-2 before the first cut, but i hear they are good. I didn't care for the OEM sheet metal extensions on them, so i made my own torsen box type with Formica tops, as well as a fold down out feed. if you search here for R4512 you will be able to find my mods, as well as those others have done to theres.
Overall id say a very competent saw that will keep a person satisfied till they are ready to upgrade to a cabinet saw. 
Also if you have a ridgid service center in your area the LSA comes in very handy, i haven't had issue to deal with them on this saw, but i did have an R4511 that after taking it to the center 3 times without the problem corrected Ridigd shipped me the R4512 as a replacement no charge.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

kingswarrior777 said:


> Ok, I have been doing quite a bit of research and for the money it appears that the Ridgid R4512 might just be the best bang for the buck with out getting too expensive. At $499.00 there does not seem to be a saw close to that with the features, ratings or reputation. Haven't really seen a bad post about one yet.
> 
> Let me know what you guys think and if any of you have any first hand experience with this one.


Grab yourself an HF 20% coupon and find an HD manager who will honor it....even if it takes more than one try, it only takes one "yes" to shave $100 off!

p.s.: The saw station was built by a guy on Lumberjocks.com.


----------



## kingswarrior777 (Dec 4, 2008)

Where does everyone get these HF 20% coupons I keep hearing about? I believe I have to order the saw online and have it shipped to the store. Not sure how that will work with the coupon, but I will check into that, thanx!


----------



## Spence (Dec 23, 2011)

HD still stocks the saw around my area. Look online and see if you have a pick-up in store option, that will tell you if any are in stock around you. If you have already done that I don't think you will be able to use a discount coupon from anywhere other than HD for online purchases. I bought the saw recently and while I am a rookie I really like the saw. The 2 piece rail is a pain, but can be perfected. The steel stamped wings are a bit annoying but seem to be the norm for this caliber of saw. The runout on the arbor and flange was less than 0.001 so I was happy there. The miter slot and gauge were setup perfectly out of the box. I made a small box and made plenty of mistakes after setting up the saw, however the saw definetly did its part when I did mine.


----------



## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

There is a tablesaw/routing station from Wood mag. October 2003 if you want to go that route.
http://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/idea-shop-52/?page=11

However, if I was looking at about $350 budget I'd run to take a look at this cabinet saw:
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/2780985477.html 
Find out if it can run on 110 if that's all you have. 


Looks like it's within striking distance. You could then either use your grandpa's saw for specific set ups or sell and invest in something else. What do you think he would want you to do? :smile:


----------

