# Punky Wood Tricks?



## Benwa (Nov 18, 2011)

Some of the spalted birch that I have been turning lately has some really punky spots that have been grieving me. Even after sharpening my gouge it still wants to tear out on the end grain. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to avoid having to do massive amounts of sanding?


----------



## knika (Jan 15, 2012)

I use Shellac. Apply several coats and after dry I turn down and apply more until I am at the shape I want.

Jack


----------



## RusDemka (Jun 9, 2012)

Carbide tools  
But we also like to see pictures....


----------



## cuerodoc (Jan 27, 2012)

+1 on the carbide
But i also use sanding sealer- lots of it on those areas and let it dry:yes:


----------



## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

RusDemka said:


> Carbide tools
> But we also like to see pictures....


+1 on the carbide. Im just starting to like that round cutter I got from Rockler, though it still grabs hard most of the time, difference is I dont end up pitching the tool or bowl across the shop now.

Ive used the square carbide tool so much, and rotated it so much, it's dull now.

Sad huh.


----------



## Itchytoe (Dec 17, 2011)

I normally stabilize wood with acrylic dissolved in acetone. You can either soak the wood in the solution, or paint the solution on the wood. When the acetone evaporates, you're left with just the acrylic that keeps everything together. I basically dissolve as much acrylic as I can into 2/3 of a gallon of acetone, then thin it with the remaining acetone to make a gallon of the solution.

Might work for you, might not.


----------



## ghost5 (Aug 19, 2012)

I use wood juice with varying degrees of success on my spalted wood. I think the failures are operator error so i keep trying.


----------



## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

Well first of all not just any carbide will work. Scraping is not the answer. A bevel rubbing cut with a sharp tool is the first line of defense. First of all don't force the cut. slow down your feed rate or increase the speed so that you are taking a smaller cut per revolution. Usually I do both. don't grip the gouge. Hold it gently so that you can feel the cut and feed the tool forward only as fast as it want's to go to produce a nice shaving. 
second. Use a tool with a sharper angle if you can. Let's assume you have the typical 50 to 60 degree bowl gouge grind. If your bowl is shallow enough you may be able to go to a 40 degree grind and still rub the bevel. This will not only give you a cleaner cut but since it takes less pressure to cut you can "feel" the proper feed rate better.
Now comes the carbide. Well it's not actually the carbide that does the job. It's the sharpening angle of the tool. The Hunter carbide tools have a counter sunk top surface. Because of this the actually cutting angle is about 25 to 35 degrees (it's hard to measure). Since the outer bevel angle is about 82 degrees you can turn the bottom of a pretty steep bowl and still rub the bevel. However the 35 degree cutting edge will give a cleaner cut. This video shows that using the new Hunter Osprey tool.




 Now assuming that doesn't work, or you don't have a second gouge here are some options. First try some paste wax along with the easier cut and increased speed. Make these cuts light. You want to sneak up on it unless your pretty confident in your skills. 
If that doesn't work try thinned lacquer or shellac. You want it to penetrate to firm up the fibers. Let it dry. If it's just a small area thin CA glue will work but it's expensive. 
If it's just a small area and not too deep try using a cabinet scraper with the lathe turned off. Scrap in different directions and feather the edges so you don't have a really obvious divot. I often use this when you think you have the bowl good and you start to sand and then notice a spot or two with tearout. If you sand with really course grit to get rid of it you get lumps in the bowl unless the grain is very smooth. Cabinet scrapers will not produce these soft wood/hardwood lumps.
If the bowl is really punky in large areas try soaking the bowl in an 50/50 mix of yellow glue and water. Let it dry for several days afterwords.
Most of the time a combination of sharp tool, slower feed rate and some thinned lacquer will solve my problems.


----------



## Benwa (Nov 18, 2011)

Thanks for the tips fellas, I'm looking forward to trying them on the next piece!


----------



## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Thanks for the original post and replies, some good stuff in here

Dave The Turning Cowboy


----------

