# What plywood to use for Kitchen Cabinets?



## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I have been doing some research on building kitchen cabinets. What ever she asks for. Right?

What would you use for the carcases? I plan to make the sides and bottoms and shelving 3/4" and possible 1/2 inch for the backs. I only want to do this once. 

I figure I would start out by building several bases to resemble a built in buffet for our dining room. Face frames with Shaker style doors and drawer fronts.

She plans on painting them which should result in a Tuscany look. Our house is paid for and we ain't going anywhere so be it.

I saw a video where the cabinet maker used 3/4 inch prefinished maple for the carcases and then cherry for the face frames and doors. I like that idea. Less work in the finishing dept.

Your thought and advice appreciated.

Note: I have all the tools except for a drum sander and this project might be a good time to get one. 

Note 2: I hate MDF so that is out! Also, no melamine.

I made her an outline of the buffet cabinet area last night and turned her loose with some cutouts.

This is what was laying on the table when I woke up. I think she is pumped. 

Mike


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The cabinets are getting painted? If so I'd use maple or birch.


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## calwilliams63 (Dec 17, 2008)

I build my cabinets using mostly 5/8" ply, 3/4" for my finished ends and 1/4" backs. I use to build all my cabinets out of 3/4" w/ 1/4" backs for years and then realized it was a waste of money and made my installs easier without the unnecessary weight. I also use a UV1 or UV2 ply that's pre-finished for all the interiors. Cuts out a lot of finishing like that. As far as what species ply and hardwood to use...... If you are painting them I would use Maple.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

You'll be doing yourself a big favor if you go with the pre finished ply, it really saves the work of finishing the interiors. Plus, the good stuff (I use Columbia Forest Products prefinished) is veneer core, very flat and uniform. The finish used on them is extremely tough, I don't think I've ever scratched it while just sawing and milling; though I have scratched it doing other things. 3/4 for the sides, and 1/2" backs makes a very strong cabinet....you won't have to worry about it lasting a good long time.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks for your thoughts. I still have time to look around and I need to modify my table saw. Relocating the fence rails to the right will make it possible to rip more than thirty inches. I just have to cobble up a support for the back rail and I have a plan, just need a little time.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Does your back rail just consist of a piece of angle iron?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

ryan50hrl said:


> Does your back rail just consist of a piece of angle iron?


Yep.
I bought a piece of flat bar. I think I will bolt it to the existing rail at the same height. All it needs is something for the end of the fence to slide across. Practically no pressure at all.

The bolt holes are 16 inches...and 17 inches...UGH. Why did they do that. Gotta drill something.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Did you consider just picking up a new piece of rail? When I was considering buying a longer one for mine it was going to be 17 bucks at a local steel supply place.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Yeah I did. But the flat bar was cheaper and easier to locate.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

How are you going to attach so that the foot on the fence doesn't catch when sliding?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I'll take pics...for good or bad!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't care for using prefinished plywood. If you want to glue anything to it you need to dado the part in so the glue will adhere. I like to use 3/4" American made birch or maple plywood for the carcass with 1/4" plywood backs. I suspended using Chinese plywood in 2009 when I kept having it delaminate. The American made plywood has it own problems with veneering over knot holes but at least it won't just fall apart.


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## chopnhack (Dec 16, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> I don't care for using prefinished plywood. If you want to glue anything to it you need to dado the part in so the glue will adhere. I like to use 3/4" American made birch or maple plywood for the carcass with 1/4" plywood backs. I suspended using Chinese plywood in 2009 when I kept having it delaminate. The American made plywood has it own problems with veneering over knot holes but at least it won't just fall apart.


I know people use it all day long, but is 1/4" plywood strong enough to hang cabs off of? At what size upper would you consider bumping up to 3/8 or 1/2" - if at all?


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Steve Neul said:


> I don't care for using prefinished plywood. If you want to glue anything to it you need to dado the part in so the glue will adhere. I like to use 3/4" American made birch or maple plywood for the carcass with 1/4" plywood backs. I suspended using Chinese plywood in 2009 when I kept having it delaminate. The American made plywood has it own problems with veneering over knot holes but at least it won't just fall apart.


Thanks Steve. I plan to dado and glue...and screw where the sun don't shine. 

I have used the China Birch to build he cabinets in my garage and I agree with you. YUK! And don't even get me started on splinters. :thumbdown:

Using the prefinished ply would give me a break with the finishing.
Still planning' the beat goes on.
Mike


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## ajmilkfarm (Jun 10, 2013)

q/4" ply is not strong enough to hang cabinets from. If I use 1/4" back I put a 3/4" cleat top and bottom to screw through. I also always use veneer core ply. The prefinished is the way to go. As far as gluing a always dado and glue for strength anyway. Don't forget if you have any cabinets with glass doors or open shelves you will want to plan ahead they should be finished to match the exterior of cabinets so I wouldn't use the prefinished for them. Good Luck


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

ajmilkfarm said:


> q/4" ply is not strong enough to hang cabinets from. If I use 1/4" back I put a 3/4" cleat top and bottom to screw through.
> Good Luck


Thanks. I plan to do that.


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