# Raising the grain



## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

Greetings!

I have noticed that no matter how much I sand my hair forks (finishing with 000 steel wool, then orange oil/beeswax) (see album in my profile) (sorry for the abuse of parentheses) the grain gets raised up after a few days in this wretched humidity, or if I use them in damp hair. How many times should I expect to have to re-sand and oil before the grain stops getting raised and everything stays smooth? Would it be okay to dunk the pieces in a glass of water to raise the grain, or would that cause too much warping?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*How about dunking them in*

Your mixture of beeswax and oil for a few days, maybe a thinner version. then let them dry out and coat again with a heavier mixture. :blink: bill
Otherwise a light coat of shellac would seal them, basically bug shells/droppings sort of organic?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

See what happens when Bill is thinking? He's onto something. Sealing with a film finish would eliminate that problem. Shellac or any other film finish would likely work pretty good. But in the interim of smoothing, I wouldn't use steel wool. Try a microfiber pad like Scotchbrite. Not the pads used for dishes. There are dedicated abrading pads in a variety of "grits".


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## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

I've tried shellac, and it definitely seals things up nicely, but I love that natural wood sheen you get with oil/beeswax.

Thanks for the quick responses!


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

How much are you sanding them? If you raise the grain then sand it you can sand below the level you want and will be succeptible to raised grain again.


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## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

ACP, that's a good question..I'll have to be mindful to sand as little as possible. Would buffing or burnishing help?


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

Good question. I would give it a try but my SD humidity doesn't hold a candle to your Charleston humidity! What wood are you using? Perhaps there would be a better choice for your environs?


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## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

I'm using maple, cherry and black walnut. And yes, the humidity right now is pushing me to the limits!!!


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

After sanding do you raise the grain and then lightly sand it smooth again? (Before finishing)


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## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

Rich, that's really my question. I'm very much a novice at this, so if you can give me any tips, I'd be grateful!

My process thus far has been to start with 60 grit, then 100, 150, 220, then the 000 steel wool, which leaves the surface silky smooth. I'll test the piece out in my hair for a day, and by the end of the day, the grain on the prongs is raised and rough. 

Your thoughts?


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

Try sanding up to your 150 grit, wipe the forks down with a wet cloth to raise the grain, when dry, sand with the 150 again. Do that a few times if/as needed, then finish up your normal way.

I wouldn't think your bees wax/oil finish is going to be durable enough for that type of usage, without reaplying every now and then.


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## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

Webster, thanks for the tip--I'l try it!

Most women with very long hair (at least that I know) oil their hair, so the fork would also benefit from that. I would definitely include instructions for periodic oiling, just in case.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Ella Menneau P. said:


> Webster, thanks for the tip--I'l try it!
> 
> Most women with very long hair (at least that I know) oil their hair, so the fork would also benefit from that. I would definitely include instructions for periodic oiling, just in case.



Advice has been offered on how to eliminate the grain raising. You keep mentioning oiling. Here would be your finish schedule to TOTALLY eliminating grain raising, and TOTALLY eliminating the need for any continuing oiling...EVER.

***Sand bare wood with 180x.

***Use BLO if you want to enhance the grain. Use only one time. I would thin the BLO with about 10% mineral spirits just to speed up drying and help with penetration.

***Once the BLO has cured, apply dewaxed shellac, like Zinsser Seal Coat.

***Once dried, lightly sand with 320x.

***Apply film topcoats of your choice: oil base varnish, oil base polyurethane, lacquer, waterbased polyurethane, or shellac.

***After final application, the finish can be rubbed with a microfiber pad to give a natural wood look and feel. It will never need any more applications of anything unless the finish gets worn off. It will definitely NOT need more oil. The rubbed finish will appear the same as an oil finish.

I wouldn't recommend using steel wool on any part of the finish schedule, as it will disintegrate and will leave metal particles that can rust.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

Hey, lmnop, are you using that wood I sent to you? How do you like it?

By the way, humidity? I've forgotten what that is.


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## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

mmwood_1 said:


> Hey, lmnop, are you using that wood I sent to you? How do you like it?
> 
> By the way, humidity? I've forgotten what that is.


Haha, Mmwood, aren't you in the rain capitol of the universe? Yes, these are made of the pieces you sent me. Fabulous! I really love the black walnut. Almost pathologically so. 

Cabinetman, thank you for the more detailed suggestions-I'll give it a try. I'm assuming the BLO is boiled linseed oil?


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> Advice has been offered on how to eliminate the grain raising. You keep mentioning oiling. Here would be your finish schedule to TOTALLY eliminating grain raising, and TOTALLY eliminating the need for any continuing oiling...EVER.
> 
> ***Sand bare wood with 180x.
> 
> ...


 
Years ago, my Bro in law worked for a high end furniture maker, and when the put on the first coat of wax, they used steel wool to cut down any nibs. Then waxed thit a rag.
Do you think this is wrong?
Trying to learn something here.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Pirate said:


> Years ago, my Bro in law worked for a high end furniture maker, and when the put on the first coat of wax, they used steel wool to cut down any nibs. Then waxed thit a rag.
> Do you think this is wrong?
> Trying to learn something here.



It's not up to me to say whether it's right or wrong. I don't use it. In fact, I can't remember the last time I used wax in a finishing schedule.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

*A Suggestion*

Ella,
There are a series of "Scotchbrite" type pads that are use for sanding purposes. These are not the typical supermarket type of pads. 

I have used the purple pads with Minwax Antique Oil Finish. The process is to soak the MAOF into the pad and then rub it into the surface of the wood. The pad accomplishes two things. First the pad applies the MAOF to the project. Second the pad acts as a sanding device and knocks off any raised grain in the process of finishing. 

BTW - MAOF yields an extremely touchable finish. Just running your fingers over an MAOF finish is a delight to the senses. It's hard to describe but it just feels right.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I won't try to add to the finish advice, my fellow fellas finished that up nicely. :stuart:

There is one other thing you can do to tip the scales in your favor though. When you're making a fork that has an inner & outer face (I noticed some of the designs are bi-facial and can go either way :laughing make sure to orient the pith side in. 

"What the heck ya talking about Kev!?" 

I'm glad you asked. Trees are sorta like Bilbo and Frodo Baggins; they got rings. Look at the pics below. 


Rings arch away from the pith. There are exceptions i.e. figured/crotch/limb anomalies etc. but generally any section you isolate (like the rectangle) is going to show a general or clear curvature of rings . . . 









See how the rings in the rectangle are oriented. This is what you are looking at with the sizes you work with (rectangle smaller than actual size :huh: ) . . . 








Some species like the pine above are easy. This Eucalyptus is not quite as easy to read on a small piece at first, but you can still clearly see how the clusters of cells form ring-ish shapes. If raised grain could be said to be "wood hair", hairs how you'd orient the wood to get the bald look you seek . . . 








As you begin to explore new species (and strange new worlds) you'll discover they are all not so generous in showing you their rings. In fact, some species are so secretive you'll just have to flip a coin. But when you can look at the end grain of a small piece and clearly see where the pith was in the tree, keep the hairy side in and you'll have a better outcome. :wacko:


These guys can also be used for hair clasps, but the amount of training it takes to get them to hold that much hair for any length of time, well, you nearly got to find a wizard that specializes in that sort of thing. But man (gal) you get one trained and you'll never lack for conversation at the java shop. :balloon:


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## daxinarian (Sep 8, 2008)

Can you try using a card scraper? Sanding abraids (or shreds) the surface wood which leaves behind little fibers that will stand up when moistend (which is what I am assuming you are talking aobut with raised grain.) When you use a card scraper you are cutting the wood instead and it will not leave behind the fibers that are causing the problem.
Another alternative is to use a sanding sealer that will raise the fibers and then you lightly sand (careful to not remove all the sanding sealer or else you have to start all over) and then apply your finish (though I am not sure if you can apply the finish you want on top of sanding sealer).


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## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

> Reading wood 101, taught by Texas Timbers


:thumbsup: That was unbelievably helpful! Thanks!

And Dax, I'll look into a scraper, too. This is turning into a science experiment as much as an art project!:smartass:


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## Ella Menneau P. (Jun 7, 2009)

Well between rrich and Webster, I think we have a winner! I sanded to 150, quickly dunked to raise the grain (and let it dry), then applied the Minwax Antique Oil Finish, then rubbed with the 3M equivalent of the scotchbrite pads (fine and very fine). This yielded an unbelievably smooth, soft, supple finish. Took one for a test drive today (hot and humid) and the finish is perfect!

Thanks guys!
:clap:


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