# material to build drawers out of?



## Walnut-nut (Mar 15, 2010)

More questions about kitchen cabinets.

I am making my new kitchen cabinets as we speak. But these are my first cabinets so I need a little advice about the drawers. I am debating the pros and cons of material for the actual drawers. 

I have 4000 lbs of good dry red oak, that I can use to build the drawers so I am leaning toward using that, but It is all 4/4 ruff cut, so it will take a large amount of work to bring it down to drawer size. 
The other option is 1/2 birch plywood, I think this will cheapen my project. But the obvious time savings is attractive. But what does the Forum think?

Oak or plywood?
Thanks for the input
Casey


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

i use 1/2" solid wood for all my boxes, dovetailed front and back. i use birch (have a lot of it) but have used the stock 1/2" poplar from lowes. i agree ply would cheapen a kitchen installation. jmho.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

There's no rule that you can't use your oak and make the boxes out of 3/4".

I prefer to make drawer boxes out of 1/2" hardwood plywood, usually of the species of the cabinetwork, and use 1/4" same species plywood for the bottoms. A light colored drawer box is fairly standard for the industry, so using the Birch would be fine and IMO doesn't "cheapen" the project. You could use rabbeted joinery, with a slide in bottom. That makes for a good drawer without a lot of hassle.


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## johnv51 (Oct 27, 2008)

If you're dovetailing the drawers you'll find the oak easier to work with. I recommend resawing it to 1/2 or 3/8.


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

What kind of drawer slides are you planning to use?


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## Walnut-nut (Mar 15, 2010)

*type of hardware*



jlord said:


> What kind of drawer slides are you planning to use?


I have purchased side ball bearing side mount 100 lbs rating the 24" long

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21453

Thanks for all the input.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Walnut-nut said:


> I have purchased side ball bearing side mount 100 lbs rating the 24" long
> 
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21453
> 
> Thanks for all the input.



Try *here* for the equivalent type slide.


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## Walnut-nut (Mar 15, 2010)

*ouch!!!!*

Cabinetman,

I feel like I did not even get a kiss on that one. If the quality is the same as what I ordered, I need to send them back, $25 a pair difference. :furious::furious: 

Is there any difference from what I order?

Thanks for the information, sometimes learning can be painful.

Casey


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Try *here* for the equivalent type slide.


Just saw this post - I thought that I was doing ok by buying 18" slides in Home Depot for $13 as opposed to almost $29 in Rockler (I do love Rockler though) But pretty much exactly half the price of HD is even better!!!!

Thank you.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> There's no rule that you can't use your oak and make the boxes out of 3/4".
> 
> I prefer to make drawer boxes out of 1/2" hardwood plywood, usually of the species of the cabinetwork, and use 1/4" same species plywood for the bottoms. A light colored drawer box is fairly standard for the industry, so using the Birch would be fine and IMO doesn't "cheapen" the project. You could use rabbeted joinery, with a slide in bottom. That makes for a good drawer without a lot of hassle.


I agree.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Walnut-nut said:


> Cabinetman,
> 
> I feel like I did not even get a kiss on that one. If the quality is the same as what I ordered, I need to send them back, $25 a pair difference. :furious::furious:
> 
> ...


I have ordered probably 3 dozens sets of those slides from that very site. You cannot go wrong. The slides work wonderfully.


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## A_Sailor (Jun 17, 2009)

I say go with the 1/2" birch ply.... Thats what I use at least. Who cares about the drawer material on your own personal cabinets? If it was for a customer it might be different.


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## panzer (Dec 12, 2010)

Thank you Cabinetman


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## bofa (Jul 17, 2010)

Wow there's so much stuff on that site... thx for linking


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I have to agree with using 1/2" Baltic Birch as drawer material. Over the years the Baltic Birch will be much more stable and add intrinsic value to your cabinets.


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## mikeroq (Dec 21, 2010)

Where I work we use 1/2" BB ply with 1/4" ply bottoms dadoed in. Seems pretty standard, all our guides are full extension ball bearing.


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

hugh71158 said:


> Just saw this post - I thought that I was doing ok by buying 18" slides in Home Depot for $13 as opposed to almost $29 in Rockler (I do love Rockler though) But pretty much exactly half the price of HD is even better!!!!
> 
> Thank you.


A quick question for anyone who knows - the slides that I bought from Woodworker's Hardware seem pretty much the same as the Home Depot and Rockler ones with the exception of one thing - they are pretty tight. 

It's not a drawer size issue, even sliding the parts in my hand they are tight. I found that the Home Depot ones slid easily, and that seemed to give the opening and closing action a better feel.

Has anyone found that the Woodworker's Hardware ones loosen up with use? They do seem quite heavily greased, maybe that isn't helping.

Hugh


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

hugh71158 said:


> Has anyone found that the Woodworker's Hardware ones loosen up with use? They do seem quite heavily greased, maybe that isn't helping.
> 
> Hugh


If the drawer box is 1 1/16" (17/16") narrower than the opening, and the opening is parallel and square to the face, you shouldn't have a problem. One tip would be is that the first time you insert the drawer and push it back it may feel tight when it gets to about 50%-60% in. At that point force the drawer back quickly until it is closed. Make it a quick deliberate action. It should slide easily after that. 

Those types of full extension slides are pretty much all the same. I don't find any significant differences in quality or use.












 





 

.


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> If the drawer box is 1 1/16" (17/16") narrower than the opening, and the opening is parallel and square to the face, you shouldn't have a problem. One tip would be is that the first time you insert the drawer and push it back it may feel tight when it gets to about 50%-60% in. At that point force the drawer back quickly until it is closed. Make it a quick deliberate action. It should slide easily after that.
> 
> Those types of full extension slides are pretty much all the same. I don't find any significant differences in quality or use.
> 
> ...


It's not the drawer sizes that are the issue, there is a difference when the slides are not fitted and I am just sliding the components apart in my hands.

It's not a big deal, I was just curious as to whether anyone was finding that it was worth paying extra for different slides. 

Thanks for the reply.

Hugh


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## mikeroq (Dec 21, 2010)

The slides we use are fairly tight like the ones you have, they do get better over time.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

hugh71158 said:


> It's not the drawer sizes that are the issue, there is a difference when the slides are not fitted and I am just sliding the components apart in my hands.
> 
> It's not a big deal, I was just curious as to whether anyone was finding that it was worth paying extra for different slides.
> 
> ...



Manipulating the slides in your hands is not the same as having them mounted, and carrying the weight of a drawer or its contents. Some drawer action is better with some weight in them.












 









.


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> Manipulating the slides in your hands is not the same as having them mounted, and carrying the weight of a drawer or its contents. Some drawer action is better with some weight in them.
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, I can appreciate that. I'm going on the basis that the slides are tighter both in the hand and in the case, compared to the others I have. 

This slide is fitted and working smoothly, just a little tightly compared to the same size drawer in the same case with another brand. As I said, I noticed right out of the package that I had to pull pretty firmly to separate the parts. 

It's not a big thing, just curious to see if anyone was going to say that they have had the same experience. 

And, at a bit over $6 each I will absolutely continue to use these components. It's shop cabinets I am working on right now, so I am happy not to be paying twice the price. Thanks for the pointer to the site. 

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.





mikeroq said:


> The slides we use are fairly tight like the ones you have, they do get better over time.


Yes, time will tell. 

Thanks. :icon_smile:


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## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

I understand using 1/2" ply for drawers with rabbeted joints.

But won't the end grain showing be unsightly? Or is it assumed that you would trim it with lumber stock.

Or what am I missing?


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## Klag (Jan 5, 2011)

1/2" baltic birch ply....best material for drawer making....light weight and very strong.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

wsommariva said:


> I understand using 1/2" ply for drawers with rabbeted joints.
> 
> But won't the end grain showing be unsightly? Or is it assumed that you would trim it with lumber stock.
> 
> Or what am I missing?


End grain wouldn't show if you are using seperate drawer fronts, they can be either hardwood or MDF. If you want to incorporate the drawer front with the drawer box, you make that end from hardwood. If you are using locking rabbets/dados, there will be hardly any endgrain showing anywhere except along the top edges of the drawers. If you are really concerned about that, it can always be edged.:smile:


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## hugh71158 (Jun 6, 2010)

Klag said:


> 1/2" baltic birch ply....best material for drawer making....light weight and very strong.


For me right now it's shop furniture that I'm playing around with.

Yes, the end grain is showing. Also, as well as rabbets I have tried pocket holes, having the fixing holes on the front and backs of the drawers. The back is out of sight, the front will be covered with an MDF front (edges rounded) I like the pocket holes in this example. 

Another observation - I personally don't like the 1/4 inch baltic birch bottoms, I much prefer 1/2 inch for everything. The drawer is much more solid, especially for holding those bigger items in the deeper drawers.

It's fun though!

Hugh


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## wsommariva (Jan 3, 2010)

jschaben said:


> End grain wouldn't show if you are using seperate drawer fronts, they can be either hardwood or MDF. If you want to incorporate the drawer front with the drawer box, you make that end from hardwood. If you are using locking rabbets/dados, there will be hardly any endgrain showing anywhere except along the top edges of the drawers. If you are really concerned about that, it can always be edged.:smile:


OK I understand, thanks


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