# Plane Ignorance



## Dado Mortise (Dec 29, 2012)

This is my father's old plane. I have no idea when he acquired it, but it looks pretty old. It says Baileys #3. And what I believe are patent dates: Mar-25-02, Aug-19-02, Apr-19-10. Quick Google search revealed that Baileys were made starting in the 1860s. Is this plane of any value? Is it worth trying to restore? If so, what blades would fit. Any information you could share would be greatly appreciated.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

It looks like an early 1900s Stanley #4 plane. The rubber depth adjustment knob indicates it was probably made during wartime. The ones made not in wartime generally have brass knobs.

Here is a plane dating site that will help you determine its age:

http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating_flowchart.php#Types 1-20


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Previous reply gave link to one of the dating sites. Two patent dates means it is likely early - mid 1900's.

If it is a Stanley No 3 then the blade is 1 3/4in wide. 

You can easily get replacement blades. Also consider replacement cap iron.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42607&cat=1,41182,43698&ap=1

It looks to be in decent shape for its age. Definitely worth restoring. It will be a useful addition to your tools.

Lots of information on plane restoration.
http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/tag/restorations/

I posted a thread on a restore of a plane in much worse condition than yours.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/latest-rust-bucket-plane-43433/


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

That's a brass depth wheel. Three patent dates, low knob, small adjustment wheel. Type 11? About 1920's ish?


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## Snaglpuss (Nov 28, 2012)

Your plane should be no problem to clean up.
It's not worth much as a collectors item due to its condition and it's not rare. Value as is now $20.It's main value is that it will make a fine quality working tool.

Look for the restoration threads how to clean it up. You don't need to go whole hog with Evap-O-Rust or electrolysis, wet n dry sandpaper and oil should do the job ok. Yours doesn't look bad.

It looks like you already have a blade in there, that should clean up as well. If you don't know how to sharpen, there is plenty of info on the web to learn, even if you buy a new blade you have to sharpen it as well.


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## Dado Mortise (Dec 29, 2012)

Thanks guys!

ACP, according to the website Chris linked, I also put it at a type 11. The website says they were made between 1910 and 1918. That would put it almost 100 years old...wow!

Snaglpuss, I have seen picture and videos on sharpening a plane blade. Seems like an awfully daunting task. Don't they make a Drill Doctor for plane blades? Hah!

I checked out the site Dave mentioned for replacement blades. A2...O1....huh?


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

So that is a brass knob? Wow ... I guess 100 years of life will do that to brass.

There are jigs that you can get to help sharpen it and chisels. Or you can use Paul Sellers' method:


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

Definitly a keeper and well worth restoration and because it was your dad's makes it special. Plenty of knowlegible people here on this forum to help with restoration.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

The above is correct. Type 11 is one of the most sought after vintages. Here is some help getting it back in shape if you need/want it. http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/bench-plane-restore-the-dw-way/


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## Dado Mortise (Dec 29, 2012)

*Huh?*

What is Japanning?:huh:


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

japanning is the black "paint" used for the interior finish on vintage planes. It not really paint, but a asphalt based finish.


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## Snaglpuss (Nov 28, 2012)

Dado Mortise said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> ACP, according to the website Chris linked, I also put it at a type 11. The website says they were made between 1910 and 1918. That would put it almost 100 years old...wow!
> 
> ...


You could easily get a cheap grinder and combo oil stone for the price of a new blade.
Don't be afraid, what have you got to loose in learning to sharpen your old blade.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

I agree with Snaglpuss, you're going to need to learn to sharpen even if you buy a new blade. All new blades need their backs flattened and sharpened. Some may be reasonably sharp, but seldom are they as good as they should.

I've restored over 300 hand planes and I've bought *1* replacement blade. Typically the old one work just fine.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Dado Mortise said:


> What is Japanning?:huh:


A useful site with more explanation of jappaning if you are interested.

As Don mentioned, originally a type of asphalt paint.

https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/japanning/japanning.htm

I have also read about using shellac and baking, but cannot find that site at the moment.

I think if the jappaning is too far gone, it will be easier to use motor paint.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

here is my complete restoration blog. http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/bench-plane-restore-the-dw-way/

I use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint. Its much easier and matches very very close to original japanning.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Dado Mortise said:


> Snaglpuss, I have seen picture and videos on sharpening a plane blade. Seems like an awfully daunting task. Don't they make a Drill Doctor for plane blades? Hah!


Actually they do. Same company makes the WorkSharp 3000.

That will make an excellent smoother plane for your woodworking. Since it was your dad's it's definitely one to restore and put to good use. I did the same with my dad's #4. Lots of great info from these guys. We'll look forward to seeing it in fighting shape!


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

When I first started using my grandpa's hand planes I was having trouble with the initial sharpening, as I was trying to use the 'scary sharp' method of sandpaper on granite, but the blades had been bouncing around in an old tub for too many since he'd moved on. Rather than buy a fancy slow grinder, I found a sharpening service that could do heirloom woodworking tools locally. After they cleaned up the blades, the sandpaper on granite has been working well. 

So while ultimately the others are probably right that you'll want to learn how to do all of the sharpening yourself eventually, I wouldn't feel guilty cheating some to start out.


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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

Def type 11. I don't have a #3, or a type 11. :glare: Cleaned up, it will be somewhat more valuable than a #4, but it should make a good user. You can buy blades for these planes from Lee Valley and other sources. My first #4 had been sharpened so often that I could no longer get a shaving, so had to buy a replacement.


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## 65BAJA (May 27, 2012)

Get the Veritas jig. Weather you use sand paper or water stones the jig will help you put a dead straight accurate, arm hair shaving sharp edge on your iron.


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## Dado Mortise (Dec 29, 2012)

Thanks guys!

I have started cleaning it up, and it's not in bad shape! The wood has a few scratches and the Japanning(if I got that right?) has what looks like a few screwdriver scratches. But is in good shape. Do I use evapo-rust if the paint is still good? Can I use a brass brush on the other metal parts?


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

yes and yes. You can put everything in evapo rust. It will only lift the japanning if there is rust under it.


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