# Desk Design Help and Ideas



## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

I'm creating a desk and want the portion where the mouse, keyboard and monitor sit to be a glass top with lighting in the bottom. The area is roughly 36x36". What thickness should the glass be? Also is there any cheaper alternatives. The area will also be a writing area for homework. I trying to keep the build under $250 or so since I have to pay for college. 

Thanks, Zach


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## liquidzoo (Mar 8, 2012)

Based on one site I've found where you can order glass at any size, anything over 1/4" thick (which may be too thin for a computer desk) in those dimensions will be more than $250 alone.

There are probably cheaper glass places if that's what you want (you can get some from Ikea at 3/8" thick, but not in the dimensions you want).

Cheaper alternative would be to make it out of ply. You'd lose the underlighting, but could make the whole desk in your budget.

Edited to include the glass link:

http://www.dullesglassandmirror.com/store/csts2.asp


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Zach
You will want tempered glass for this project. 1/4" thick with all edges smoothed/slightly rounded.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I don't think I would like light coming up from underneath the keyboard and monitor. My keyboard is black and hard enough to see in regular room light. Just sayin'.

How much does the monitor weigh?
How do you plan to keep the glass scratch free?

Sorry. I have more questions than answers.

Good luck with your project.
Mike


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Under lighting would probably interfere with laser mouse operation.

If you use too thin of glass panel it would be serious safety hazard.

To start with you do not want the key board to be at desk top height. Makes it difficult to use. Keyboard should be lower.

Suggest you rethink design.

George


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

MT Stringer, I do plan to keep the glass scratch free. The monitor is the Apple Display and weighs about 24lbs. The monitor will be lifted away from the table though. Is there any alternative to glass that I could use. I want the cool lighting. If I have to give up the lighting for pricing it is okay, but that is my last resort. If I do not use the glass what is a good wood covering that is flat and I can right on without worrying about indents.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

zarnold16 said:


> MT Stringer, I do plan to keep the glass scratch free. The monitor is the Apple Display and weighs about 24lbs. The monitor will be lifted away from the table though. Is there any alternative to glass that I could use. I want the cool lighting. If I have to give up the lighting for pricing it is okay, but that is my last resort. If I do not use the glass what is a good wood covering that is flat and I can right on without worrying about indents.


Zach
You have an idea. A plan in your head. Go for it. 
Desk pads are sold to keep Beautiful wooden desk Beautiful. 
Many writing desk were made with leather insets for both looks and protection. The glass top should last you a lifetime. Your desk design and quality completion are important. Do a good job.


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

Toolman50 said:


> Zach
> You have an idea. A plan in your head. Go for it.
> Desk pads are sold to keep Beautiful wooden desk Beautiful.
> Many writing desk were made with leather insets for both looks and protection. The glass top should last you a lifetime. Your desk design and quality completion are important. Do a good job.


Im sorry I probably worded my last question wrong. What is a good desk finish or wood finish that can hold up to writing well and isn't textured.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

zarnold16 said:


> Im sorry I probably worded my last question wrong. What is a good desk finish or wood finish that can hold up to writing well and isn't textured.


A pour on epoxy finish would likely work pretty well. I do have to say though, 3'x3' strikes me as a rather odd size for a desk. My main work bench is the same size, and I still find it to bee too deep from time to time


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

epicfail48 said:


> A pour on epoxy finish would likely work pretty well. I do have to say though, 3'x3' strikes me as a rather odd size for a desk. My main work bench is the same size, and I still find it to bee too deep from time to time


My desk is doubling as a electronics workbench, the computer area is 36 by 36. (The depth might change) Here is a 3d model I made. A is the Area for my computer, B is my soldering area, and C are my extra plugs.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Desk*

Wood desk are made from all types of woods, so it becomes a matter of personal preference for your choice of wood to use. 
Oaks are a favorite for durability. Mahogany and Walnut might be found in the Oval Office. Rosewood, Teak, Cherry, Maple, Pecan, and Alder can all make a beautiful desk. 
Good luck with your choice.


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

Toolman50 said:


> Wood desk are made from all types of woods, so it becomes a matter of personal preference for your choice of wood to use.
> Oaks are a favorite for durability. Mahogany and Walnut might be found in the Oval Office. Rosewood, Teak, Cherry, Maple, Pecan, and Alder can all make a beautiful desk.
> Good luck with your choice.


I'm a complete noob slightly when it comes to purchasing wood and they types. What type of plywood can you stain and it looks good? If you can please send a link to correspond. Also what thickness should the plywood be? I want the desk to have an industrial look with the metal pipes. I want to stain the wood a dark color like ebony. I have everything planned except the wood because I don't know what to look for and what to buy. Also do you guys think that 3/4 galvanized steel pipe will support the weight?


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Zach 
In your original post, you said you want to be economical. 
In you last post, you said you don't have a lot of experience. 
You also want to use some pipe on the project. 
I'm going to make some suggestions to help guide you on this project. 

1. If a Big Box retailer is near you (Lowes or Home Depot) the Big Box can be your friend. 
They can be one stop shopping for your project. (Even though it may take several hours). 
They will have the wood, the pipe and the pipe flange to attach to the pipe to the wood. They can cut your pipe to length and thread it. They can cut your plywood sheet into the sizes your plan calls for. 

2. 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood might be the most economical wood choice. 
Birch can be painted or stained. You can cover the plywood edge with matching hardwood tape or strips of solid wood. (Preferred)

3. 3/4" pipe will support the weight, but a 1" pipe might look better
Using the 3/4" plywood, I would put a 4" wide perimeter wrap on the underside of the desk top inset about 2 1/2" from the edge on all 4 sides. This square frame can be screwed with 1 1/4" screws or glued to the underside of the top. This will strengthen the top and prevent flex. The flanges for the legs can be attached to this frame and it will allow you to use 1 1/4" screws to attach the flange to the underside. 

Once you get it made, you can get back on this forum and get guidance on finishing your project. 
Good luck.


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## sgibby88 (May 28, 2015)

Wouldn't plexi be a cheaper alternative to glass?


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

zarnold16 said:


> My desk is doubling as a electronics workbench, the computer area is 36 by 36. (The depth might change) Here is a 3d model I made. A is the Area for my computer, B is my soldering area, and C are my extra plugs.


If the 'A' spot is 3'x3', that is one gigantic desk. Honestly, id start by rethinking some dimensions and making a mockup of the top from cardboard.


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

epicfail48 said:


> If the 'A' spot is 3'x3', that is one gigantic desk. Honestly, id start by rethinking some dimensions and making a mockup of the top from cardboard.


I have already mocked up the desk. The actual area is 35x30. I just put 36x36 because I couldnt remember the size I originally planned. I have a Menards, Lowes, and Home Depot all within 30 mins from me. Im trying to build most of the desk with me but my grandpa will help. He is the one with all the good power tools.


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

Toolman50 said:


> Zach
> In your original post, you said you want to be economical.
> In you last post, you said you don't have a lot of experience.
> You also want to use some pipe on the project.
> I'm going to make some suggestions to help guide you on this project.


At first I only need help with the designing of the computer area then I said what the heck let this forum help with the rest. I have experience building stuff just not designing stuff. I'm usually using online plans but this time im gonna design it all myself.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

zarnold16 said:


> I have already mocked up the desk. The actual area is 35x30. I just put 36x36 because I couldnt remember the size I originally planned. I have a Menards, Lowes, and Home Depot all within 30 mins from me. Im trying to build most of the desk with me but my grandpa will help. He is the one with all the good power tools.


Are you going to build the desktop in two sections or one large "L" shaped piece?

The Baltic birch I buy at the lumber yard comes in 60 x 60 inch sheets of various thicknesses. Regular plywood is 48x96. Take that into consideration as you finalize your design.

I like the idea of a skirt under the table to add rigidity.

Here is a desk I built for my nephew to use in college. He is a big guy, but so far, it has made it two years without coming apart. :thumbsup:

I made the legs from construction 2x4's milled flat with square edges, glued together, then milled to 3 inches square, then chamfered at 45 deg angles. The legs and skirt boards are attached with glue and pocket screws.

I didn't have any plans to go buy. I just winged it from pictures I took of one I found in a hotel room I stayed at once. 

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> Are you going to build the desktop in two sections or one large "L" shaped piece?
> 
> The Baltic birch I buy at the lumber yard comes in 60 x 60 inch sheets of various thicknesses. Regular plywood is 48x96. Take that into consideration as you finalize your design.
> 
> ...


It is gonna be built in two parts. It is easier since the long end is 80 and the short side is 65.(Lots of space is needed with electronics) I like the look of that wood. What color stain is that also? Also how would I add a skirt since my legs are gonna be made out of metal pipe.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Don't hold me to it, but I think I used Minwax Chestnut stain. I have attached a link to a toy box I built. It is also made out of pine and stained with the same stain. The pictures are much better than the ones I posted above.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/72425


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

Toolman50 said:


> Zach
> In your original post, you said you want to be economical.
> In you last post, you said you don't have a lot of experience.
> You also want to use some pipe on the project.
> ...


Do you think that this desk will be secure and not move when I touch it?


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## zarnold16 (May 29, 2015)

If I used a unfinished door instead of plywood would that work also? Like this door, http://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN...shed-Hardwood-Front-Door-Slab-45605/202036049
http://www.menards.com/main/doors-...od-solid-core-door-only/p-2724691-c-12245.htm


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> Here is a desk I built for my nephew to use in college. He is a big guy, but so far, it has made it two years without coming apart. :thumbsup:
> 
> I made the legs from construction 2x4's milled flat with square edges, glued together, then milled to 3 inches square, then chamfered at 45 deg angles. The legs and skirt boards are attached with glue and pocket screws.
> Hope this helps.
> Mike


Mike
Good job on the desk. You're a very good uncle. 
Jim


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

zarnold16 said:


> Do you think that this desk will be secure and not move when I touch it?


If I were building a pipe legged desk and wanted it very stable, I would cut each leg at about 15" from the floor and thread both ends to accept a Threaded T brace connecting two legs together. It will be super strong. 
Also, as mentioned in a previous post, the Baltic Birch is sold in a 60"X60" sheet. Your top will need to be made from one 60" piece and one 30" piece to give you the full 90" length you want. It will really be two tables pulled together to make the L shape. A skirt around the perimeter of the tables will stop the flex of the top and can also be used to tie the two tables together with screws.


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