# Connecting Cabinets of varying depths



## Scrappygirl (Jun 2, 2017)

Hi Everyone!
This is my first time posting. I'm a Junior Woodworker, only 1.5 years in. I've promoted myself to making cabinets and my second project is a built-in closet. I'm trying to keep it relatively simple without suffering in function and esthetics. 
My issue is transitioning between a shorter depth adjustable shelf cabinet (15") to a deeper cabinet (17"). I've been using 2" face frames made with poplar as the closet unit will be painted white.
Do I put a spacer between and add an angled piece, keep it skinny here and put a skinny trim, connect a piece of wood to the short depth shelf to bring it flush to the deeper cabinet? I want to do a good job and don't want it to look janky. So any advice would be appreciated!
Im not sure how to post a pic. Will do so once it posts if I can figure it out.
Scrappygirl


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## Scrappygirl (Jun 2, 2017)

Here are a couple photos where you can see the depth change. 
I still have a few steps before I can insert the bead board in the back and get ready to paint and I will attach face frames when I install. 
At this point, I need to shorten the length of the two towers to the right (I changed a measurement on the adjustable shelves on the left and forgot to adjust the remainder). So I need to know what I'm doing with this transition to determine how much shorter I make the total length. Thank you!
Scrappygirl


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*no transitions please ....*

Different depths are just fine. Do not try to "hide" the obvious. In Design school we learned "Where this is a gap, either emphasize it or leave it alone". I have no quarter round moldings in my home, I just raise the drywall 1/2" off the floor and run the carpet underneath, for a clean contemporary look. :wink2:


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## Scrappygirl (Jun 2, 2017)

Thank you for your reply! 
I should have probably added, that the adjustable shelves are not as deep, because that part of the wall is really shallow due to a door being there. In case anyone was wondering why'd I even do that. Lol.
So I take it to mean I should just use skinny trim here to both cabinets since I won't be able to use 2" here?


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## Scrappygirl (Jun 2, 2017)

Now I'm thinking I can just use the same 2" trim used throughout instead of using a skinny trim on this section, but maybe put the trim extending to inside of cabinet?
I've been making it flush with inside of cabinet, extending out. 
Here's a pic of trim flush with outside of cabinet, extending in on this wierd section.
If I do this, should I keep them all overlapping to the inside of the cabinet?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Looks Great!*

That would be what I would do. If you can snug the cabinets up side to side it will be just fine. If you can't snug them precisely, and end up with a gap less than 1/8", you could leave a 1/8" or a 1/16" overlap on the outsides.

I have used a 1/4" plywood spacer between cabinets to close a gap since most production cabinets have a 1/8" or so, overhang on the outside.


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## hubaseball02 (Nov 24, 2007)

Scrappygirl said:


> Now I'm thinking I can just use the same 2" trim used throughout instead of using a skinny trim on this section, but maybe put the trim extending to inside of cabinet?
> I've been making it flush with inside of cabinet, extending out.
> Here's a pic of trim flush with outside of cabinet, extending in on this wierd section.
> If I do this, should I keep them all overlapping to the inside of the cabinet?




I would do the same to keep the consistent look of your project. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Scrappygirl (Jun 2, 2017)

Ok thanks guys!
I just spoke to a cabinet maker earlier today and he says to overlap all the trim to the inside, so that's what I'll do. 😜 He also suggected I use biscuits for the faceframe instead of brad nailer to attaché a full face frame. I'll have to see if I want to attempt that. These towers are about 101" tall. Eeee.


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