# Need Help Building a Unisaw Extended Table Replacement



## f6maniac (Dec 14, 2012)

I have a Unisaw that is about 8 years old and includes the Biesemeyer 52-Inch fence and table board. The table board is no longer flat and I want to build a replacement.

I'm sure some of you have already done this, and I'm interested in any suggestions or design tips you may have. Specifically the type of table surface you used and the design of the underlying frame.


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## Snaglpuss (Nov 28, 2012)

Plywood or MDF covered with plastic laminate.
I would stay away from particle board or melamine covered particle board (no structural strength for this kind of use).
I would say the laminate is almost a must, it protects the substrate and allows what you are cutting to slide easily across.
Easy to keep clean and waxed if you want.
Framing underneath so you can bolt through into the cast iron and be able to fasten a leg to the outboard side.


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## jharris2 (Jul 9, 2012)

2 layers of. 1/2 and or 3/4 MDF. Cut one layer to the final size you want before adding hardwood edging.

This piece will serve as your pattern. Then glue a second slightly larger piece under that. This piece should be 1/2 inch larger than the first so you can center the first piece on it leaving a 1/4 " reveal all the way around.

Let the glue cure then use a pattern bit in your router to remove the excess 1/4" and leave the edges flush. 























Then install 3/4" hardwood edging.

Sand the top of this assembly as needed and clean thoroughly prior to installing the laminate.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/PortablePowerTools/InstallingLaminate/

(Check with local countertop fabricators to see if they have a piece of laminate drop-off you can buy cheap)

After lamination you can use a roundover or chamfer bit to trim the excess laminate from the edges.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think mine is vinyl covered melamine with a 1x2 poplar frame underneath. If you have the means of welding I would make a frame out of tublar steel and make the work surface out of plywood covered with plastic laminate. While you are at it I would make a 24" extension of the left side. I used a couple of extensions from a retired sears table saw on mine. Then I welded some heavy angle to the biesemeyer fence rails to support the extensions.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Steve, I love that setup! Well done... To the OP, if you really want to make one that will stay flat, you could always do a Mr. Sawdust table (familiar to RAS fans). This is simply 2 pieces of 3/4" sheet stock (most commonly MDF) with 3/4" wide steel bars epoxied in it. They would be on edge and run the length of your table, probably 3 of them. This was published in Wally Kunkel's book on Dewalt RAS, his method of making a flat RAS table that stayed flat. It works extremely well, and would be really heavy. But on mine, I used a piece of melamine that's reinforced by angle iron stock.


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## f6maniac (Dec 14, 2012)

Some really good info from all of you. I really like the Mr. Sawdust table idea and will probably use a similar method. I have a router insert in my current table which probably was a factor in the original sagging. Having some steel to reinforce should correct the problem. My current table sagged across the width not length so I would like to run steel support in both directions, plus have a clear area to install my router plate. I ordered a sheet of Formica today from Lowes that I will laminate onto both the top and bottom surface of 2, 3/4" sheets of MDF. Looking at some of the discussions in the provided links it appears that ensuring the perfectly flat glue up of the two sheets MDF may be a challenge. Any suggestions?


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