# Miter Saw Stop Block --- left or right?



## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

I'm currently working on a miter saw station, and I'm at a point where I can choose to have my long stop block positioned to the right or left of the saw.

I'm curious, since I don't have as much practical experience as some of you, is there a preference?

In my current garage and space, I have more room to the left of my saw than the right. Meaning i have a hot water heater to the right that I would run into sooner than I would run into the door to the far left. So this is making me think about putting my longest part of the bench, and the stop block, on the right.


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

I like the stop block on the left side. When I cut one-off's I find it easier to eyeball the blade to the mark from the left side of the blade. By setting my stop block on the left side for multiple pieces my routine is the same for initial setup & reduces chances for error. 


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

plasma800 said:


> I'm currently working on a miter saw station, and I'm at a point where I can choose to have my long stop block positioned to the right or left of the saw.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I have my stop block to the right. I can use it to cut up to 4 foot. So if I'm cutting 12 inch pieces off of an 8 foot board, the long end hangs off to the left. I rarely need a stop for longer the 4 foot so I just measure and cut anything longer


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

I'm for the left since I'm right handed. I can run the saw with my right hand and use my left for holding the wood against the fence. Easier for me to see too. Laser guides are usually set up for cutting to the right as well. 


Enjoy yourself, life is short


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## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

Left side preferable to me also but I built my miter saw stand to be able to have a stop block on either side if needed.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If you are right-handed the stop should be ideally on the left, material is held with left hand, dominant right hand for the saw. The cut-off is removed with the right hand so you are not passing your hand across in front of the blade, guards tend to hang up occasionally so you may have an exposed blade.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Just depends upon what I am doing. I want to capability to use either side. Fortunately the devise that came on my saw allows for this.

George


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

all great thoughts, thanks


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## tylerdru90 (Aug 17, 2016)

plasma800 said:


> all great thoughts, thanks




I am left handed so that is probably why I prefer the other side as well. 


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## Hunter (May 10, 2012)

I would consider which way the board usually faces when you are making any cut.

I am right handed, so I pull the tape measure with my left hand and mark with my right. That naturally makes the board point to the right. So my stops are on the right side of the saw.

Hunter


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## wickedsolo (Feb 17, 2017)

Kerrys said:


> Left side preferable to me also but I built my miter saw stand to be able to have a stop block on either side if needed.




I did the same, although I pretty much only use my stop block on the left.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

GeorgeC said:


> Just depends upon what I am doing. I want to capability to use either side. Fortunately the devise that came on my saw allows for this.
> 
> George


+1: with George. I want the ability to place the stop on both sides. Why wouldn't everyone want this? :wink2:
My stops swing up out of the way when not in use.


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

I also have the ability to use a stop on both sides, as I'm sure others do, but we stated our preference, as requested by the OP. 


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

WesTex said:


> I also have the ability to use a stop on both sides, as I'm sure others do, but we stated our preference, as requested by the OP.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



If only one side must be chosen, I would place the block on the side where I have the most length in my shop. Some moldings are 12' long.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Toolman50 said:


> If only one side must be chosen, I would place the block on the side where I have the most length in my shop. Some moldings are 12' long.


I would place the saw so I had the longest bench to the left. :|


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*where's the motor?*

The motors on both my sliding miter saws are on the right side of the blade, Bosch 10" and Dewalt 12". You can not see under the motor when making a cut, so you have to set up the cut before hand. Unless you have a kerf in your fence, you don't know where the cut will be unless you set the blade down on the work first, power off.

How will you hold down the cut off on the right side of the blade if your left hand is holding down the left side piece... you can't. You don't want a cut off against a stop on the right side where it may jiggle around and catch the blade. You want the right side to fall free, safely away from the blade. 

For me, the stop and the long side are on the left side of the blade where I can hold the work and see the cut, especially when shaving off a small amount. :wink2:


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

woodnthings said:


> The motors on both my sliding miter saws are on the right side of the blade, Bosch 10" and Dewalt 12". You can not see under the motor when making a cut, so you have to set up the cut before hand. Unless you have a kerf in your fence, you don't know where the cut will be unless you set the blade down on the work first, power off.
> 
> How will you hold down the cut off on the right side of the blade if your left hand is holding down the left side piece... you can't. You don't want a cut off against a stop on the right side where it may jiggle around and catch the blade. You want the right side to fall free, safely away from the blade.
> 
> For me, the stop and the long side are on the left side of the blade where I can hold the work and see the cut, especially when shaving off a small amount. :wink2:


In that situation, that makes sense. I think I'm just going to track both sides, one will likely be longer than the other, but I can uses for both sides. And each side will have a stick on measuring tape...


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

plasma800 said:


> In that situation, that makes sense. I think I'm just going to track both sides, one will likely be longer than the other, but I can uses for both sides. And each side will have a stick on measuring tape...


That sounds like a plan, by the way you mention a long board would run into the door on the left, not a problem, just open the door.


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## plasma800 (Apr 27, 2017)

FrankC said:


> That sounds like a plan, by the way you mention a long board would run into the door on the left, not a problem, just open the door.


precisely, but it would take a LONG board to reach the door.


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

Both sides need a top block from time to time. Just added stop blocks to my table saw sled and drill press aux table. I found some stop blocks on the web that will clamp to a 3/4" or 1.5" board with out Track or clamps. Just use a 3/4" by 20 feet long and you have a instant stop block anywhere with out having to search for clamps or the right scrap. Here is a Vcarve file and video on how to make these. They work great and won't move one you tighten them down. Video and links to the CRV files that cut knobs, stop blocks on a CNC machine. My first 2 were made on the table saw and bandsaw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I liked the concept above, but I don't have a CNC. All you need is 3 pieces of 3/4" thick stock, one of which is the same thickness as your mitergauge fence and a threaded "T" insert say 5/16" or 3/8", and bolt with a knob the same thread. You assemble the three pieces so the center one is a snug, but sliding fit on the miter fence and the "T" insert is driven flush with the inside of the sliding portion. Glue them up, screw in the knob and you can locate it right or left of the miter gauge head.








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There are many sliding T tracks with work top flipper on mitergauge fences, but a low budget one from wood will work almost as well:


https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sliding+stop+for+miter+gauge+fence


🙃


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## Mark Jones Ozark (Feb 26, 2019)

I have a box joint jig that uses T tracks all over the place. very well thought out and built on purpose. I needed a system that fits any board or plywood or fence material of 3/4" or 1.5" that slips off easy so it can removed out of of the way. It will fit on any side of the fence on both directions. For already existing jigs or table tops T Tracks are a pain to cut the slot and install with out adding more bulk to the fence. They also work out if the load is heavy if you just use screws. So add in epoxy to the price and it gets expensive. 
Here is the video and build and it shows why I went with this method compared to the 3 piece clamp and the insert and bolt. (I have those in use on a lighter duty purpose but I needed something that won't move when put in place).


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