# Unisaw advice



## mikeleg (Oct 24, 2012)

Hi,

I'm new to woodworking and I would appreciate some advice on a table saw I am looking at. It is a Delta 3hp single phase Unisaw. I inspected the saw and it seems to be in good condition. Title and height adjustment were smooth once I cleaned out some of the dust. I removed the blade and ran the motor and I think it runs smoothly but I have no reference point for what smooth is. The saw had a constant hum and I could feel a gentle vibration when I placed my hand on the top. They were no unusual noises. Is that level of vibration normal? All of the gears and trunions were in excellent condition. The rail and unifence were not attached and the rail has scratches which I'm assuming are from the fence. Is this saw supposed to have one rail or two (he only had one)? Most of the Unisaw pics I have seen online seem to have two rails (front and back). I've talked him down to $800. Is this a reasonable price? I know these are newbie questions so thanks in advance for your patience and advice.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

The Unifence only has a single rail. As far as smoothness, what you describe sounds about right. If you put a nickel on edge and turn the saw on, let it get up to speed and then turn it off, the nickel should stay standing.

You will get a lot of opinions here, but I don't think that $800 for a complete, fairly new, 3HP Unisaw in excellent condition is out of line. They are great saws.

In the picture I don't see the right-side table wing (extension). This could be because there was an extension table added. Is this included? Is the wing included? If not, that's a bargaining point.

Bill


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Is that a right tilt saw? 
Tom


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

To me that price is the very upper end for that saw. Somewhere in the $600 range would be much more comparable to what I see in my area. You didn't mention how long the fence was (30" versus 50"). The vibration could be as simple as the belts having some "set" in them from not being used. Someone else mentioned (I think) the unifence only has the front rail. It looks like it has the motor cover (?). The real question is whether it's worth $800 to you, if so, it will be the only saw you will ever need.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Fred Hargis said:


> You didn't mention how long the fence was (30" versus 50"). The real question is whether it's worth $800 to you, if so, it will be the only saw you will ever need.


I think you meant the length of the rail. It looks too long to be a 30". As for the price, it sounds about right. Try some negotiation...it's your money. I agree, it will be the only saw you may ever need.









 







.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

The saw should be pretty smooth, but belts are usually the key contributors to anything excessive, and can generally be easily rectified if necessary. If the saw has been sitting a while, the vibration may reduce over time when the belts relax. 

$800 seems like a pretty nice deal on an excellent saw. Align it well, and put a good blade on it, and you'll be set! Hope you'll followup and let us know how it goes.... :thumbsup:


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

I also would try to get the price down a bit lower. However, if it is in good shape I would still consider the $800.00. I also agree this is all the saw you would ever need. 

In may area they seem to be selling for a little more.


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## mikeleg (Oct 24, 2012)

Thanks for the advice everyone. It has the 52" fence and the motor cover. Both are in very good condition. $800 seems to be about right or a little less than the average for my area. I did notice the missing right extension. The seller said that his father had a large wooden extension but he did not keep it. I think I may have seen the extension sitting on the floor while I wasa there but I'm not sure. I'll definitely use this as a bargaining point.

I'm looking at the smaller 2hp hybrid saw tomorrow. It is selling for roughly the same as the 3hp but it is in like new condition. I think I know which saw I will end up with.

It is a 34-457 and I think it was mfg in 83.

Mike


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*looks like a right tilt*



TomC said:


> Is that a right tilt saw?
> Tom


The crank on the left usually means it tilts right.... and would not be my choice. Being right handed I prefer a left tilt saw which has an extension out the right hand side. Any bevel cuts need to have the fence on the left side of the blade to prevent trapping the work and having a potential kickback.

The newer saw will probably be a left tilt. :thumbsup:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

mikeleg said:


> ...
> I'm looking at the smaller 2hp hybrid saw tomorrow. It is selling for roughly the same as the 3hp but it is in like new condition. I think I know which saw I will end up with.
> 
> It is a 34-457 and I think it was mfg in 83.
> ...


The guts of a Unisaw should look something like this:










Depending on which one, the guts of a hybrid are more likely to look something like this:








or possibly like this:









The moral of the story....there's a huge difference in the overall construction of an industrial cabinet saw vs a hybrid that transcends just motor power. It doesn't necessarily effect cut quality, and a hybrid can be a very capable hobby saw, but it sure doesn't hurt to have a tiger in the tank.


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## mikeleg (Oct 24, 2012)

Thanks! That makes my choice even easier.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> I think you meant the length of the rail. It looks too long to be a 30". As for the price, it sounds about right. Try some negotiation...it's your money. I agree, it will be the only saw you may ever need.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I did mean the rail, and i didn't even see it standing next to the saw:laughing:.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

The saw should have a back rail (angle iron) for attaching an extension table. A lot of saws were sold with 1 wing. 
If you want a Unifence, Unisaw, it's a good price if it's in real good condition.
I've used both, and prefer the Biesemeyer style fence, over the Unifence.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

I think the unifence is much more user friendly as far as attaching fixtures too.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've had both right and left tilt saws, and wouldn't turn it down just because it's a right tilt.









 







.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

TomC said:


> Is that a right tilt saw?
> Tom


I believe so from the picture. Both the wheel and slot in the throat plate indicate a right tilt.


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## mikeleg (Oct 24, 2012)

It is a right tilt. I understand some of the advantages of left tilt, but I am still more comfortable with a right tilt. Going to make my final choice tomorrow night.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Mikeleg wrote:
<<_The rail and unifence were not attached and the rail has scratches which I'm assuming are from the fence._>>

Mike: Normally, the rail shouldn't be scratched by the Unifence. The parts that contact the rail from the top and outer side of the fence should be plastic/nylon. Mine is a slightly different model than the one shown in your picture (I believe your fence is an early model) and some knucklehead had replaced the plastic top adjustment set screws with steel ones. Now that caused some scratches! 

Buy that saw yet?

Bill


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## mikeleg (Oct 24, 2012)

I haven't yet. I'm going to take another look at it tomorrow and I will peform the nickel test. I looked at the hybrid tonight. It was a nice saw but it is not comparable to the 3hp Unisaw. I plan on offering him less and hopefully he accepts.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

WarnerConstInc. said:


> I think the unifence is much more user friendly as far as attaching fixtures too.



I think the unifence is much more user friendly as far as attaching fixtures too.
Not sure why 1 pic is tiny, and the other huge. Both from my Photobucket album.


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## tommitytomtom (Oct 26, 2012)

I concur with opinions on the Unisaw. I may be biased because I own one, but mainly because it's a nice saw. Hybrids are great to have, but in my opinion, not in a commercial shop. On the other hand, a commercial saw is very well at home in a home/hobby shop.


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## mikeleg (Oct 24, 2012)

*Model of this Unisaw?*

Hi,

I have another line on a different Unisaw. I need some help identifying the model and year. The seller was only able to supply me with a serial number G209838. I'm sure it is a 3HP model. the fence looks like an exalibur. How does this fence compare with the unisaw fence? Any thoughts of the two saws I posted? Asking price is the same for both.

thanks,

Mike


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## tommitytomtom (Oct 26, 2012)

mikeleg said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have another line on a different Unisaw. I need some help identifying the model and year. The seller was only able to supply me with a serial number G209838. I'm sure it is a 3HP model. the fence looks like an exalibur. How does this fence compare with the unisaw fence? Any thoughts of the two saws I posted? Asking price is the same for both.
> 
> ...


Mike, 
Model numbers will differ within the Unisaw model based on accessories that came with the saw when new although not specifically just for that reason. In the early days of production, you could even buy the saw without a motor. From the pic, I'm guessing that is a late 70's/early 80's saw. The serial number throws me though. My Rockwell Unisaw (same as a Delta) has a 2 letter start. I'm not a serial number expert. Still a great saw. I'd get it if it fit my budget. It's easy to service and accurate even with minor/no experience in setting one up. If the fence is straight and can be adjusted, use it. I have a Biesemeyer fence which is what that fence is copied from. I love it.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Here's a link to some info about the Unisaw serial number history. (go down the page). As I went through it, I didn't see the possibility of a SN starting with one letter. I'm betting he miss read one of the characters. If so, those starting with G were built in Tupelo, Miss in the early 70's. But that's guessing.


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## tommitytomtom (Oct 26, 2012)

Fred Hargis said:


> Here's a link to some info about the Unisaw serial number history. (go down the page). As I went through it, I didn't see the possibility of a SN starting with one letter. I'm betting he miss read one of the characters. If so, those starting with G were built in Tupelo, Miss in the early 70's. But that's guessing.


I did some research, your Unisaw could have been made in Guelph, Ontario. This makes the date of birth harder to nail down because this plant used a different system to date the machines. I also noticed that the Guelph plant had Rockwell International-made Unisaws during the time frame I previously guessed. Bottom line ? A Rockwell Unisaw is the same saw as a Delta Unisaw. Older models differed SLIGHTLY from newer and parts are interchangeable with only minor exceptions.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

My unisaw has a badge that only says Rockwell. The serial number plate says Rockwell International, Pittsburgh, PA. My serial number is LO7556. I don't think there was a hyphen. This is an older saw and was built around 1982, I think. There is no mention of Delta.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

Pirate, that is not a unifence. Did I misunderstand? Yours looks more like a copy of a Biesemeyer fence


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## tommitytomtom (Oct 26, 2012)

Fastback said:


> My unisaw has a badge that only says Rockwell. The serial number plate says Rockwell International, Pittsburgh, PA. My serial number is LO7556. I don't think there was a hyphen. This is an older saw and was built around 1982, I think. There is no mention of Delta.


Rockwell and Delta Unisaws are the SAME thing. They were part of the same parent company for years. Great saw. Don't worry about birthdate of saw. You can find parts for it. If you restore it or properly set it up/adjust to use as-is. It will be the last saw you will ever need. Wanting a different saw is a choice.


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## Fastback (Sep 2, 2012)

Thanks TomTom, I am aware that Rockwell owned Delta (Delta was purchased in 1945), but it was the first saw I have seen with the Rockwell only badge, not that I have been seriously looking. I have had my saw for 10 or 12 years and am very satisfied with it. I bought mine used. Both my father and grandfather were Delta users. 

AS for age I know it really is not all that important, but for some reason I like to know the history of my equipment. For example, I own two Southbend metal lathes one is a 1941 and the other is 1942. I have a copy of the original shipping information etc. My bridge port was built in 1972 and my surface grinder was 1986. I also have wood working tools dating from the 40's through the 60's. 

Sometimes there are slight changes between years and you need or want to know when it was built.


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