# Grizzly G1023 TS won't start



## Blur (Feb 1, 2011)

As some of you may be aware, I bought a Grizzly G1023 TS used a couple months back. Since then I've got the 220 line installed and today finished cleaning up and lubricating the saw. It's an older saw but in good condition, plus Griz has a good reputation so I didn't hesitate to buy it. 

So fast forward to today; I put the blade on for the first time (Forest WW2), and turn the saw on for a simple tests (just make sure the darn thing comes on!) before I start to tune the saw for use. I left the plastic wrap on the new blade thinking it wouldn't matter much since I was just going to have to take the blade right back off to adjust a few things and wasn't actually going to cut anything yet. 

The saw ran fine for about five seconds, then the plastic wrap came flying off the blade and hit the cabinet causing a (surprisingly) loud thump. I quickly cut the power to the saw, and checked to see if there was any damage. Didn't look like anything was wrong. However, when I went to start the saw again, it wouldn't start. 

I checked to make sure the breaker at the electrical panel wasn't tripped (it wasn't). I am at a loss to think of anything else that would cause the saw not to start. I really don't think it could have been the plastic wrap, this is a 3hp saw. It cuts through bubinga no problem, I can't imagine some plastic wrap actually caused the issue. So here I am, and the saw just won't start. 

I'm going to call Grizzly tech support in the morning, and hopefully they'll help me come up with an answer, but if anyone has any ideas in the mean time, i'd be very interested to hear them. What the heck could have gone wrong?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*tripped the reset?*

Some 220v switches have a reset inside the housing, some motors have a reset on the motor. If you have power to the switch ...check with a neon voltage tester...and out of the switch....then the issue is at the motor. 
No sound means no power generally. There is a centrifugal contactor on the end of the motor which can go south also. My buddie's Grizzly had this isssue, we bent the contacts and it started up fine.  bill


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## Blur (Feb 1, 2011)

Looks like bad news. I just used a voltage detector on the saw. There's power going into and out of the switch. This would seem to point to an issue with the motor. Not what I was hoping for. I could not find any reset switch on the motor itself.


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Is it possible some plastic wrap got sucked into the motor?

I am not familiar with this saw, so just guessin'. :smile:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Blur said:


> Looks like bad news. I just used a voltage detector on the saw. There's power going into and out of the switch. This would seem to point to an issue with the motor. Not what I was hoping for. I could not find any reset switch on the motor itself.


Blur, I have the same saw... There is no reset. I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the plastic wrap. I'd suggest you go over the wiring to the motor. If you converted it over to 220 check your wiring diagram again and your terminal conections.

Overall though, grizzly tech support is AWSOME so I'm sure they'll get you up and running again. BTW, I love my 1023... I put a unifence on it and got it dead sqaure. Best saw I've ever owned... Still a contractor saw though...

~tom


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## Blur (Feb 1, 2011)

Thanks for all the feedback guys I greatly appreciate it. Firemedic: I got the saw prewired to 220. I did buy it second hand, but the person I bought it from stated it came from the factory wired for 220. The fact that it worked up until this point would seem to suggest it's not an issue with the wiring of the motor, but that may be a faulty assumption on my part. 

Out of curiosity firemedic, why do you consider it a contractor saw? It's a full enclosed cabinet with cabinet mounted trunions and a 3hp motor. Usually contractor saws don't have the full enclosed cabinet with the motor hanging exposed off the back, and most frequently have table mounted trunions (though there are some exceptions to that). Not really related to my problem, but a point of curiosity for me as to how you're defining this. Cheers and thanks again everyone for the input.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Any chance that the blade protection knocked a wire off the switch? 

If not, possibly one of the capacitors went bad? A quick look inside the cans should tell you instantly.


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## wood player (Jan 21, 2011)

I love my grizzly cab table saw just had to replace the motor after 20 years. check and see if there is a reset on the switch mine is the off button, good luck with yours


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Blur said:


> Thanks for all the feedback guys I greatly appreciate it. Firemedic: I got the saw prewired to 220. I did buy it second hand, but the person I bought it from stated it came from the factory wired for 220. The fact that it worked up until this point would seem to suggest it's not an issue with the wiring of the motor, but that may be a faulty assumption on my part.
> 
> Out of curiosity firemedic, why do you consider it a contractor saw? It's a full enclosed cabinet with cabinet mounted trunions and a 3hp motor. Usually contractor saws don't have the full enclosed cabinet with the motor hanging exposed off the back, and most frequently have table mounted trunions (though there are some exceptions to that). Not really related to my problem, but a point of curiosity for me as to how you're defining this. Cheers and thanks again everyone for the input.


lol, sounds like you have a cab saw alright... I have the Z... It's a cotractor version of it I guess...

That being said we don't own the same saws 

~tom


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## Blur (Feb 1, 2011)

wood player said:


> I love my grizzly cab table saw just had to replace the motor after 20 years. check and see if there is a reset on the switch mine is the off button, good luck with yours


Now that might be useful... How does the off button function as a reset switch for your saw? Do you have to hold it down for an extended period of time or is there something else? This might just be the key here.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

firemedic said:


> lol, sounds like you have a cab saw alright... I have the Z... It's a contractor version of it I guess...
> 
> That being said we don't own the same saws
> 
> ~tom


Do you have a G1022Z? There was also a G0444Z after that.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

knotscott said:


> Do you have a G1022Z? There was also a G0444Z after that.


Man idk... Lol I haven't seen my saw in three days so I'm having withdrawls and delusions! 

I'll be in the shop tomr after I get off shift...

~tom


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

firemedic said:


> Man idk... Lol I haven't seen my saw in three days so I'm having withdrawls and delusions!
> 
> I'll be in the shop tomr after I get off shift...
> 
> ~tom


 
Are you sure it's a Grizzly? :laughing:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

mdntrdr said:


> Are you sure it's a Grizzly? :laughing:


Haha!... Grizzly's are usually red, right? 

~tom


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

mdntrdr said:


> Are you sure it's a Grizzly? :laughing:


It's probably the smoke inhalation...could happen to anyone.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

knotscott said:


> It's probably the smoke inhalation...could happen to anyone.


 that or all the 1,2,3,4,5 am medical calls that make me actually work lately... No one's allowed to die on my bus!... 

Hadn't had many real fires lately...

...and I just realzed how totally off topic this thread has become, haha

~tom


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## Blur (Feb 1, 2011)

Well, just got off the phone with Grizzly tech support, and they gave me some ideas at least of how to proceed. The first thing to do is determine with certainty if the problem is the switch or the motor. I'm going to have to rig up a jump wire to bypass the switch on the saw and use the breaker to control it for this test (I'll run it without the blade for this test of course). If bypassing the switch makes the motor turn then the switch is the problem and I'm only out $71.50 for a new switch. If not, the problem is the motor and worst case scenario I'll have to buy a new one for $290.  Here's hoping it's the switch! I'll post the final results of this on this thread so if someone else runs into this same problem at some point in the future they will have something they can reference.


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

If the issue is the motor, you might try to find a shop that specializes in rebuilding electric motors. Rebuilding yours has to be a LOT cheaper than replacing it...


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## wood player (Jan 21, 2011)

It has been awhile since I overheated mine enough to trip the heaters so can't remember but I think you just firmly push the off button and it may even click when it resets.The heaters in that magnetic switch may be bad also with burned contacts or somthing, but I'm doubting it is your motor or you should have had some indications before it just stopped. Hoping it is somthing simple and inexpensive. BTW I would do some serious thinking before having that motor rewound it could get pricy. My motor shop wanted to get me a new one and the cost was the same and they would have had to weld the brackets from the old motor to the new, so I went with the grizzly replacement. Just saved the starter off the old motor as a back up for the future.


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## wood player (Jan 21, 2011)

Firemedic How do you manage to not lose anyone on your bus? I've always said no one dies on my shift but over the last 17 years a few that were circling the drain too fast got away anyway.O well 12 more working days and I won't have to worry about it any more. I'll let the young kids deal with it. I'll never miss a code blue.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

wood player said:


> Firemedic How do you manage to not lose anyone on your bus? I've always said no one dies on my shift but over the last 17 years a few that were circling the drain too fast got away anyway.O well 12 more working days and I won't have to worry about it any more. I'll let the young kids deal with it. I'll never miss a code blue.


Lol, it's more a joke than anything... If they ain't viable they don't get loaded on the bus... But if I work em, they don't get called till they're already in the ER... Hence no one "dies" on my bus... 

I been pretty lucky though, knock on wood. Whether or not they walk out the hospital is a different thing though...

Where are you a medic? Congrats on a long career!... It would seem most medics (non-fire) burn out after 10 or so yrs...

~tom


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## wood player (Jan 21, 2011)

I started out in the late 60s as a medical corpsman in the army. drove an ambulance in Germany for about 18 months. after the army I spent some years in construction and woodworking shops. Wife encouraged me to go to nursing school.Financially it was a good move but the trade off of more physical work to more emotional stress isn,t all it is cracked up to be. When the small county hospital was recently bought out by a giant hospital I decided i wanted out. somebody forgot the patient in the prossess.so decided it would be more conducive to long life to sawmill and work in wood shop and be poor.I am a med surg nurse


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

What's the status Blur? Any luck?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

wood player said:


> I started out in the late 60s as a medical corpsman in the army. drove an ambulance in Germany for about 18 months. after the army I spent some years in construction and woodworking shops. Wife encouraged me to go to nursing school.Financially it was a good move but the trade off of more physical work to more emotional stress isn,t all it is cracked up to be. When the small county hospital was recently bought out by a giant hospital I decided i wanted out. somebody forgot the patient in the prossess.so decided it would be more conducive to long life to sawmill and work in wood shop and be poor.I am a med surg nurse


Wow, quite the background, huh? Medicine sure has changed a lot since the 60's... Especially the scope of medics!

I'm considering PA school... But I can't ever seem to find the 'right' time to go...

Take care~

~tom


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## Blur (Feb 1, 2011)

Victory! And some great news for me and my pocket book. The problem was neither the switch nor the motor. I went to Lowes and picked up a multi test electrical meter for about $22. It turns out one of the contacts running from the power supply to the switch was bad, so the motor was receiving only 110v rather than the 220 it needs. Apparently the saw can run for a few seconds on half power, but that's about it. I cleaned the contact on the switch, replaced the broken metal contact on the end of the wire, put it back together and viola! Working Saw! I was so happy I danced a little jig. I spent the rest of the time I had for the day aligning the saw blade to the miter slot (got it to within .004 inch and called it good enough). I'll finish the rest of the set up this weekend and be ready to go next week. Life is good!


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

dbhost said:


> If the issue is the motor, you might try to find a shop that specializes in rebuilding electric motors. Rebuilding yours has to be a LOT cheaper than replacing it...


That would work if they could rebuild it. That is a China Motor and most if not all motor shops turn them away. Maybe since it's a 3 hp they may try but I would be surprised. Hope it's the switch. 

$290 for a 3 hp motor is not actually bad they wanted $250 for a 1.5 hp when I was looking.



Blur said:


> Victory! And some great news for me and my pocket book. The problem was neither the switch nor the motor. I went to Lowes and picked up a multi test electrical meter for about $22. It turns out one of the contacts running from the power supply to the switch was bad, so the motor was receiving only 110v rather than the 220 it needs. Apparently the saw can run for a few seconds on half power, but that's about it. I cleaned the contact on the switch, replaced the broken metal contact on the end of the wire, put it back together and viola! Working Saw! I was so happy I danced a little jig. I spent the rest of the time I had for the day aligning the saw blade to the miter slot (got it to within .004 inch and called it good enough). I'll finish the rest of the set up this weekend and be ready to go next week. Life is good!


Nice to hear.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Blur said:


> Victory! And some great news for me and my pocket book. The problem was neither the switch nor the motor. I went to Lowes and picked up a multi test electrical meter for about $22. It turns out one of the contacts running from the power supply to the switch was bad, so the motor was receiving only 110v rather than the 220 it needs. Apparently the saw can run for a few seconds on half power, but that's about it. I cleaned the contact on the switch, replaced the broken metal contact on the end of the wire, put it back together and viola! Working Saw! I was so happy I danced a little jig. I spent the rest of the time I had for the day aligning the saw blade to the miter slot (got it to within .004 inch and called it good enough). I'll finish the rest of the set up this weekend and be ready to go next week. Life is good!


Awesome! :thumbsup: 

p.s.: Does your username have anything to do with the race car in the Little Rascals movie?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Glad to hear ya got it fixed up! And for the record mine is a 22... hehe

~tom


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Glad to hear you got it going, and that the trouble was so minor. Enjoy the saw, be safe, and make some sawdust!


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