# methods for putting a radius on a smoothing plane blade?



## Evilfrog (Aug 2, 2011)

So I recently purchased a Hock blade for a #4 Stanley. I'm going to use it to bring my soundboard on my guitar down to thickness, which is spruce. 

Anyway, some have suggested that I put a radius on the blade to reduce tear out and plane marks. Does anyone have a suggested method for that? I do not have a grinder. But my father does have a low speed one I can use if required. I've been using waterstones and a honing guide to sharpen my blades and chisels.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Watch Rob Cosman's videos on sharpening. He shows a quick way to soften the corners.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

You are asking about how to "camber" an iron. Camber is only a couple of thousandths and can be done with your honing guide and waterstones. When honing, you simply put more pressure on the ends of the blade to remove a bit more material on the ends than the middle.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I found this video useful:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=29711


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## autre (Jul 12, 2011)

Don't take that thing to a grinder unless you have a real accurate guide. Please. 

I got impatient (newbie handplaner at the time) with my, then new, WoodRiver #6 fore plane and wound up with a real long-bedded scrub plane! I wasn't accustomed to how hard A2 steel was, and I didn't know NEAR what I know now about sharpening. I'm still working at getting it to where I can shave more of a shaving than a plow*! I'm also too fearful of trying to correct what damage I already have done to the blade, so I just sharpen it (no grinder!), with a guide every chance I get to "ween" it back to that subtle camber, little by little.

*Please note: Mild exaggeration.


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## Evilfrog (Aug 2, 2011)

Wrangler said:


> You are asking about how to "camber" an iron. Camber is only a couple of thousandths and can be done with your honing guide and waterstones. When honing, you simply put more pressure on the ends of the blade to remove a bit more material on the ends than the middle.


Searching for the correct term certainly has helped in the research department. :thumbsup:


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## Michael374 (Jul 5, 2012)

I think that your father was right in suggesting you to buy grinder. Now to mention it only cost it how many dollars and for sure your blade can easily be sharpen.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I watched Chris Schwarz on TV not long ago and he said he put a radius of 8 inches on his plane. Here is a link to that video about hand planes, don't let them horsing around at the start of the video throw you off, these guys are really good.

http://video.pbs.org/video/2172600556


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## chicago (Jul 5, 2012)

*Veritas Cambered Roller Assembly*



Evilfrog said:


> Does anyone have a suggested method for that?


@Evilfrog

I use a Lee Valley honing guide to hone all of my irons. They also make a cambered roller which can replace the straight-barreled roller. This cambered roller puts a slight curve on your irons in no time at all and works very well in practice, which is what you want.

The cambered roller can be see here.

I have a page on my website where I write about it briefly.

Best of luck to you.


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

Wrangler said:


> You are asking about how to "camber" an iron. Camber is only a couple of thousandths and can be done with your honing guide and waterstones. When honing, you simply put more pressure on the ends of the blade to remove a bit more material on the ends than the middle.


+1 you can do it on any sharpening media this way.


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## Evilfrog (Aug 2, 2011)

jiju1943 said:


> I watched Chris Schwarz on TV not long ago and he said he put a radius of 8 inches on his plane. Here is a link to that video about hand planes, don't let them horsing around at the start of the video throw you off, these guys are really good.
> 
> http://video.pbs.org/video/2172600556


Well, that killed my day. Watched 2 hours of the woodright's shop instead of doing house work....:thumbsup:



Wrangler said:


> You are asking about how to "camber" an iron. Camber is only a couple of thousandths and can be done with your honing guide and waterstones. When honing, you simply put more pressure on the ends of the blade to remove a bit more material on the ends than the middle.


I used this method and but a slight camber on the blade. It'ss not noticeable unless you put it up to a straight edge. 

I also sharpened three other plane blades and 9 chisels. Three hours later the Cardinals beat the marlins (thanks shannon for the call) and I have sharp tools!


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## railaw (Nov 15, 2011)

Related question: I have some glass taken from a storm door that I have been planning to use for sharpening with sandpaper. Is this any reason to think that the glass woulda be something other than flat? It's probably in the range of 1/4 to 1/8" thick. Thx.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

I'm not much of a purist, so I would try it. I would; however, fasten the glass to a piece of plywood. I think that the lack of stiffness of single strength glass is more of an issue than surface flaws.


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## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

First, buy a cheap electric grinder...one with a 6"-diameter stone.
Mount it about 3' off the floor. Make a gash in the floor about a foot away from the front of the grinder. Screw the plane-blade to a stick long enough to hold the blade at the right angle related to the stone. Sharpen the bottom end of the stick and set it in the gash. Swing the blade back and forth with very light, almost no, pressure on the running grindstone. That will put somthing like a 4'-radius on the blade...just about right.
I did this for a while 'til I got tired of the set-up, and just advanced to hand-holding the blade and getting a nice pure hollow-grind that way. It can certrainly be done. 
Practice.


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## woodbutcher360 (Jul 1, 2012)

railaw said:


> Related question: I have some glass taken from a storm door that I have been planning to use for sharpening with sandpaper. Is this any reason to think that the glass woulda be something other than flat? It's probably in the range of 1/4 to 1/8" thick. Thx.


 I doubt that a piece of storm door glass will be flat enough. Sight across the plane of the pane (I ain't tryin' to be a butt, really ) and move the glass slowly changing your view angle. If you see distortion it ain't flat.
I use a piece of plate glass and I also have a piece of polished granite from the local monument (headstone store) store. Very, very flat and works swell.


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## Puma (Jun 28, 2012)

A grinder is a waste of time. 

Put your finger on the right side of the blade, pull toward you, repeat eight times, move your finger halfway betwixt the far right and the middle, pull four times, move to the middle, pull two times. Repeat the whole process on the left side but leave out the middle. Move to your next finer stone and repeat process. When you're done remove the burr on the back of the blade as normal. 

This is so easy you'll get it almost perfect the first time. By the third try you'll have it mastered.


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