# Need advice on staining an oak bar



## Dan (May 22, 2008)

I just finished building an oak bar - nothing fancy just a 45 degree L shape.
I am looking to stain it a 'medium oak' colour but am wondering if there are certain products best suited for oak as well as certain finishes (oil, waterbased, etc...).
I am also unsure of how to best finish the top and rail to make them most durable. I'm sure there will be some spilled drinks now and again 
Is polyu or some sort of epoxy best?

Thank you for any tips and suggestions!


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

Oak is very easy wood to finish, takes stain and top coat readily. The only place I would ever use polyurethane varnish is on a floor. For a bar top I would use Waterlox original gloss varnish(phenolic resin-tung oil carrier) or Behens bar top (phenolic resin-linseed oil).

Regards

Jerry


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## steck (May 7, 2008)

i dunno, i think a bar top would be a perfect spot for a poly. maybe a hand rubbed poly like minwax makes.


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## Dan (May 22, 2008)

*water-based vs. oil-based*

To finish my bar...

Should I be using a water-based or oil-based stain? I would prefer low odor, fast drying as it is in my basement but is there a problem with using a water-based finish that I should know about? I was planning to use Minwax pre-stain conditioner first. For the top coat Minwax has a product called Polycrylic that is water-based and does not yellow. Would that be something I would want on the sides as well as the top (I need the top to be durable of course). I was thinking of using a product like NuLustre 55 for the top but man is it expensive...

One last question. Minwax also has a one step finish product called Polyshades that is stain and polyurethane combined. Anyone have experience with that?

Thanks so much for all the help!


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

Pre-stain conditioner is made to fatten the bottom line of the maker and serves no other purpose. If you choose to use a water borne finish just apply after sanding. As an ex-moderator on another finishing forum once said "Polyshades is the worst thing the ever happened to a can". Use individual stain and top coat.

Regards

Jerry


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

My finish schedule for Red Oak consists of singly applied stain/dye, and topcoats. Water based stains and dyes don't impart as much color as oil based dyes or alcohol (methanol) based dyes. They have the propensity to raise the grain. But, they are easier to control the darkening caused by overlapping.

I prefer oil based stains and alcohol based dyes. For topcoats, lacquer or water based polyurethane dries fast and provides a good finish. For the bar top, oil based polyurethane can be used, but I don't like spraying it and it takes too long to dry permitting anything to land on the wet surface. For a clear gloss finish, IMO, a two part epoxy or a polyester lacquer are a very durable finish.


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