# The Making of an Adze



## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Or more correctly, the making of a haft for an adze blade.

A couple of weeks ago I started a thread asking about shaping a chair/stool seat. Lots of great comments and suggestions for different methods and tools, but in the end I decided to go the traditional way (following Manuka Jock's and Robson Valley's suggestions) and get an adze.

Spent a lot of time looking (and pricing) different adze shapes and sizes and finally decided on the gutter adze blade from Kestrel Tools. It arrived less than a week after ordering, and the next step was finding a piece of wood to use for a haft. The blade comes with a booklet describing use of the adze, instructions for making the haft as well as full size patterns. You really have two options for making a haft, make one from a natural crotch or cut one from a piece of wood. I decided to make mine from white oak reclaimed from a barn.

First picture is a plywood pattern I made to use for cutting out and shaping the haft. It's about 14 1/4" total length.









Here's the piece of oak I selected - rough cut ~ 2 x 6".









Next was to spend a little time reducing the board to 1 1/8" thickness. Pretty quick process even though I had to remove almost 3/4" of material. Heavy cambered blade on the SB #5 followed by the #7 to smooth it all out. I could have ripped the board, but the nails you see aren't always driven in straight, and I was worried I'd hit one of them if I was to use a saw. Really didn't want to have to retooth and sharpen my saw, so I used the planes. 










Traced the pattern and cut it out with a jig saw and coping saw in fine areas. Cleaned up with a couple of files to reach into the small areas and did some quick shaping of the handle with a low angle spoke shave.

Next step is to drill a hole the length of the head to insert/epoxy a 1/2" dowel for strength and to prevent the head splitting off of the handle with the first blow. I drilled it out with a 12" long 1/2" bit. No other bits had the depth I needed which was about 5 1/2". I don't have a drill press, so I clamped the haft in a vise, and drilled it out with a cordless drill. The longer bit actually helped me sight from side to side and keep the hole pretty straight down the center of the head.










I let that dry and immediately attached the blade. Before doing a final attachment of the blade, Kestrel tools recommends attaching it with a hose clamp like the picture and working with it for a while to determine the spacing that works best for each person. 









When I figure out what blade positioning works for me, I'll notch the top of the head for the blade and attach it by wrapping it with tarred nylon string. The handle and head are still pretty rough at this stage, I'll do a lot of dressing up once I decide on proper blade placement.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Magnificent. What a build. I hope that we can see your explorations.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

*A few more pictures*

Here's a few more pictures.

The first is showing a closeup of the head of the mallet before trimming.









And a picture of the head after trimming off the "horn" The horn is there primarily to have a square flat surface so drilling for the dowel is easier.









Here's a picture of the back of the head after trimming showing the dowel.









And finally a view from the top.









Just for reference, the length of the head is about 5 1/4" (wood only) and the top of the handle by the head attachment is 1" (approximately round). Overall length is about 14 1/2'. 

That's as far as I have gotten - other than hacking away at some fresh cut red maple. I'll spare you those pictures, nothing worth seeing. 

Once I decide on a placement of the blade I'll update this thread with those pictures as well as showing some of my work with the adze itself - after lots and lots and lots of practice.:laughing:


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Robson Valley said:


> Magnificent. What a build. I hope that we can see your explorations.



Definitely will show pictures. 

I've been playing with it quite a bit, working on round logs as well as boards and I think I'm close to deciding on a final blade placement. It's such a different way of working wood and I'm really enjoying it. 

I just cut down a dying red maple and am planning on trying some bowls with that wood when I get the time.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Looking good TRC ,
looking good :thumbsup:


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

Awesome thread! I seen the original by Robson V. and noticed the grain orientation and when I read your thread I seen you did it the same way. I was wondering what would keep it from splitting. Thanks for showing the dowel. This lead me to another question. Im sure the wooden dowel will be strong enough to keep the handle from splitting, But would a steel or even a brass rod be a better option? I would think that a tool that is as light as these are are a dream to weild and would chop through oak like butter. but I would have to think that if a bit of mass was added it would make it a little easier? yes / no?

jsut a thought.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

If I understand everything I've been reading correctly, a brass/steel rod might add too much stiffness and/or weight. The instructions talk a lot about flex and actually recommend the diameter at the top of the shaft to be as little as 15/16" diameter. Right now, it feels really good to me - _but I have zero reference for that_ - never seen one in use or even held one. 

As easy as the handles are to make, I may make another one and put a metal rod in it instead of wood just to see. I've also been thinking of making a handle of something with a little more flex than the white oak I currently have.

I should mention, that this is more of a carving adze and is (I assume) a lot lighter in weight than other hand adze I've seen advertised like the Gransfors Bruks adze that Highland Woodworking and others sell.

As another point of reference for everyone, the tool steel is 1 1/8" wide by about 5/32" thick (before shaping) and is 6" long. I just weighed the adze (blade and handle) and it comes in at about 18oz.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

I reckon you are on the right track there Tim.
This is your first adze , making and using , and cutting the handle out of a milled board is a good move. 
You get the opportunity to adjust the dimensions and angles , 
and the flexible dowel is good too.
I'd suggest that when you have given this a good workout on a few projects , and know what you want , 
you keep your eye out for an oversized solid branch with the good elbow , of the right timber off a good tree , and try your luck at a haft from that .


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Good deal!
I used 3/8" in and out from the recommended position of the blade tang.
Settled on the recommended location.

Wema826: The peg needs to be wood, I believe. Has to be quite elastic, considering the motion and the geometry. These elbow adzes come in several different sizes. In no way are they meant for squaring house timbers. They are a "band saw on a stick" for shaping carving roughouts. Then you get to the fun carving part. In the meantime they are pretty quick little wood hogs. 

Magard Log Home Building Tools is a dealer for those things.

I believe that it's important to keep track of the location of the "Holm's Constant."
That's why I had to add 1" to the length of the original handle on mine


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

Thanks guys. I have never used an adze so i have no clue what is needed. Thank you for clarifying that for me!


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

Nice build! I also was thinking "but won't that break?" until the dowel showed up. Getting just the blade sure brings that down into a more accessable price point!


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

There's another peg placement that I'd like to make, as well.
Imagine the butt of the handle on the bench, adze straight up in the air.
The peg goes horizontally, straight across in the joint of the elbow.
In the front, it probably will come out in the seat for the blade tang.
As mine is cracking just at the rear of the blade seat, I wonder if it might help.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

It certainly can't hurt. It seems that area would be highest stress as the force form each strike is carried back through the length of the blade.

Here's a thought - have you wrapped any of yours yet or just using the clamps? I wonder if wrapping them will both reinforce the head while dissipating the force across a greater area? Might that be enough (with your new peg placement) to keep the head from splitting? Don't really know, just thinking out loud.....


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

A very interesting build. Looking very good. Thanks for posting. :thumbsup:

I am not expecting to be getting an adze any time soon, but useful to know the nuances of making the haft. Like so many tools, lots of nuances.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

In the last pic in Post #3, you can see the orientation of the growthrings in the wood, parallel to the sides of the elbow. Very important. Second, trc65's adze is deceptively larger than mine. I've got the Kestrel "Baby Sitka."
Frankly, I think that I got lucky with the peg hole in handle #2, that's the one you see, now cracked.
I wanted to try 45 degrees instead of 55 degrees, so I laid out and cut 3 of each. One way or another, I have wrecked all six of them. More laid out for today.

I used 2 pipe clamps and moved the blade in/out 3/8". Over 3 consecutive days, I decided that the pattern placement was as good as anything. So I cut the blade seat and whipped the tang down.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks for pointing out the growth ring orientation. I'd forgotten about that point when I was typing things up.

I'm at a loss for suggestions to keep yours from splitting. Other than the new peg placement you are considering, the only thing that occurs to me is shortening the length of the head and moving the blade back a bit. However as you know, that would totally mess with the geometry.

Since you are laying out more it might be worth trying on one of them?? I really don't know enough or have enough experience to know one way or the other......


Just for illustration, I've borrowed (without permission) from Kestrel Tools this image comparing the sizes of the Sitka and Baby Adze. The larger one that I'm using is 6" long and has a 2" wide cutting edge.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Waiting for my bread dough ti rise.

If I shortened the head, it would mess with the Holm Constant and lighten the head as well. Has to be some mass for the cut. To that end, I'm making all the new ones 3/8" thicker on the underside of the head = can't hit anything with that anyway.
Here's mine, during the in/out fooling with the blade placement.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

That's real nice Tim, but what holds the blade when your whacking that thing? Is it just those clamps holding it? And does it move? 
All in all, great job.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks Dom.

Yeah, right now it's just the clamp holding it. It's what the Kestrel Tools recommends while you are playing around with spacing of the blade and grip area. Once I've decided on the blade placement, I'll cut out a notched recess for the blade and use tarred nylon cord to attach it (like Robson's picture in post #15). It does move just a little with just the one clamp, I've been using two now to keep it in place better while I'm testing. Kestrel said in their instructions that some people never get around to using the cord and just use the clamps so they can adjust it for different jobs. Personally, I think that is rather ugly and ungainly, so I'll definitely be using the cord for final attachment.

Haven't decided yet if I'll wrap the handle like Robson has. I've got a little more shaping to do on the handle and will see after I've finished with the spoke shave. I probably will, just to give myself a little more grip in warmer weather when sweat starts flowing.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Tim: it's an issue of control, as you have no doubt found out already. Being able to make a series of overlapping strikes and at just the right angle to take out chips. Just trying to make a vertical or horizontal row is quite the challenge. 
Fortunately, I'm ambidexterous so I can switch hands. Nevertheless, it isn't hard to see the difference in the strike patterns. PacNW native carvers say you have to swing with your heart rate to go all day. Too fast is exhausting = I'm still trying to learn to slow down.

I have a solar power backup power system = a couple of big filter capacitors in the 1kW inverter decided to go up in smoke and flames this afternoon. The whole house stinks and I got little else done except to toss it outside to cool off and hook up a new one for another $400. Power company plans 3 hr outage tomorrow and I will need 750W for a few hours.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I know what you mean about pacing. I tend to use a hand plane like a crazy person when I'm surfacing a board and I'm constantly reminding myself to slow down and focus more on each individual stroke. 

There's definitely a learning curve and I'm slowly developing a rhythm and concentrating more on each strike instead of just trying to gouge out a hole. 

I think I've got the blade placement figured out, so in the next couple of days I plan to finish up final work on the adze and get into some serious practicing. I've got lots of freshly cut maple to work with and am thinking about a series of "exercises" to work on control and consistency. 

Don't think I've ever had so much fun creating piles of wood chips!

That sucks with the capacitors blowing - I don't imagine it's warm enough up in your area yet to really be able to open windows and air the house out without your wearing your winter coats.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

They are a lot of fun to use. 
I used one when I was building a log house in Canada. For digging out the the lateral groove. 
I got lots of practice with that tool. Lol


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Dom, these are carving adzes. They are not up to the challenge of house building. The geometry, the set-up between the blade and the handle, seem so very different.
Magard Log Home Building Tools.com has all that stuff.
I confess that I have known the owner for a very long time and I did some blade work for him.

I have been investigating the value and the versatility of PacNW carvers crooked knives for the past 10 years. I have 12 of them. My planer knife is unlike anything you have ever seen or used.
Some day, I'll write it up. All kinds of things that you can't reach with a gouge.
This winter, I decided that I was done with the exploration. I pick up those knives, the sweeps of choice, one in each hand and go to it.

Now, I'm off to learn what the elbow adze can do. Much more sophisticated than I ever imagined they could be. A bandsaw on a stick.

Maybe, along the way, I get some carvings done.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Let's clarify this more. 
Mine is a scoop adze. Same difference.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Swinging an adze is no different from swinging any tool, be it hammer , axe , pick , shovel , pitch fork ...... Rhythmically 

Going at it like a nutcase wielding a knife will end up with the same result , a messy job 
:shifty:


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Dom: where does a scoop adze fit into the carving spectrum among a straight, lip and gutter shapes?
I don't know the "scoop" term.
As yours is probably meant for log home building work(?) or very large wood carvings, I suspect that the shape isn't that of the smaller carving elbow adzes for 40' - 75' totem poles. Elbow adzes are rarely ever more than 55 degrees. Log home adzes are about 90 degrees and for very good reasons as you know.
Your adze must be steeped in centuries of european history. The Pacific Nw carvers' adzes are barely 2 centuries in age.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Robson Valley said:


> The Pacific Nw carvers' adzes are barely 2 centuries in age.


 By that , do you mean steel adzes ?


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

MJ Yes, steel. Anthropologists observed that carving in the PacNW flourished with the availability of iron. I've read some accounts which say that there was a chance that Asian trash with iron parts
did occassionally wash ashore along the BC coast before that. Now we get all sorts of rubbish from the tsunami, even a motorcycle packed in styrofoam!

There is native, elemental copper on the coast but it was beaten into sheets which were a measure of wealth and prosperity. The best possible tool-making material would have been nephrite jade.
Flint and obsidian were also traded all over western North America.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Robson Valley said:


> even a motorcycle packed in styrofoam!


 :scooter:
RV on the road again


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

The same happened here . 
Pre-contact Maori woodwork and carving with Pounamu (stone) tools was remarkable , and with the arrival of steel , the quality went off the charts .
Many Pounamu adzes were recarved into Hei Tiki and traded for the new products.
We can still see the adze blade in the pendant 











The red around the eyes is sealing wax


This Museum page has stone adze blades aplenty 
http://collectionsbeta.tepapa.govt.nz/Term.aspx?irn=343#


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

They tracked down the Japanese owner of the motorcycle who said that he didn't want it back.
Many months of electrolysis with different metals, marinating in seawater, and it didn't look very pretty at all.

Good link, MJ.
I had a piece of nephrite jade, size and thickness of my hand. In that day and time, I would have like to be able to make some altered shape from it. Gave up. How that stuff was shaped, centuries ago is amazing.
Just looked at the adze collection (120+) online in the University of British Columbia Museum of Anthropology. All over the world. Even a cut-down Stubai gutter adze! My interest is so recent that I did not stop to look at the adzes when I got into the UBC/MOA.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

The discussion from last night about the history of the steel adze prompted me to start doing a little reading and I was just amazed at the tools, artwork and the other objects created with what we now consider primitive tools.

The other amazing thing was to look at some of these old stone tools and see the same angles and size as what is now being used with modern materials. Makes me wish for time travel! I'd love to be able to go back in time and witness those incredible craftsmen using these tools.

I read a couple of excerpts on the use of jade (nephrite) last night, previously had no idea it was used for tools, let alone then made into pendants and other items after the introduction of iron. Great link Manuka!


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Decided on a final spacing for the adze so I prepared to permanently mount it. 

First was to get a notch cut in the top of the head to seat the iron. Cut this out close to my lines with a saw and finished up with paring chisel.









Next couple of pictures are for Robson. When you mentioned the first step in whipping was to find some way to prevent the roll of string from rolling on the floor and unraveling, I immediately thought of this little holder I made many years ago to hold a roll of paper towels and a roll of nylon string. Just a bolt and a piece of thin pipe welded to a flat plate.


















This next picture is the start of the whipping, I won't bother you with a description of the process, Robson did that very well in a previous thread. Thanks again for your description and pictures, they were much better than those included with the iron.









Finally, a picture of it with ends pulled under the wrap and ready for clipping.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

All done!









And a couple of pictures of the log I've been chopping on for practice.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

That is so heart-warming to see. Good for you.
Your adze is a beautiful tool. 
I wear gloves for whipping = I need to see tar on my gloves
to know that I have it whipped down hard enough to hit the middle
of the notch.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

For those of you who might not know, "tarred nylon" is very common place #18 cord for repairing
west coast fishing nets for such things as salmon, herring, scallops and so forth.
In a past life, I pulled shrimp trawls. Lots of repairs to ripped up nets would sum it up very well.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Robson Valley said:


> That is so heart-warming to see. Good for you.
> Your adze is a beautiful tool.
> I wear gloves for whipping = I need to see tar on my gloves
> to know that I have it whipped down hard enough to hit the middle
> of the notch.


I was in such a hurry to start that I totally forgot your recommendation to wear gloves until my hands were well striped :laughing::laughing:. Oh well, a few globs of GOOP and most of it came off.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Funny, but it has been 4+ decades and I "know" the smell of that cord.
You got tar on your hands and that's about right. I'll believe you.
Now, we back off and go easy. You mess with your adze to learn things.
Maybe we come back here, end of April, and compare notes?


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

That sounds like a plan!


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Good. We will do that. 

My GF is doing chemo for BC. That takes me far away from this place.
I gotta hit the road for her Apr01 for 7-10 days.
Each treatment seems to knock her down harder than the ones before.
I am still standing. We will do this.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

My thoughts and prayers are with both of you.

Don't forget to take care of yourself while you are caring for her. I unfortunately know how difficult it can be for the caregiver while fighting difficult illnesses.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Thank you Tim, from both of us.
I'll take some wood carving stuff with me for a distraction.

I figured out how to get the dang peg hole straight up the middle.
Set up square in a vise under the drill press, start each end with a 3/8" Forstner, I got 1.5"
Then a much longer 3/8" brad-point twist bit to drill out the middle section.
Used a coarse rasp on 3/8" hardwood dowel to make 6" fluted pegs.
Sharpen one end as the peg hole does not exactly line up, little bit of a curve to go around.
Lots of glue, lots of paper towel and my 30oz lead core mallet = tap-tap-tap.
Did 3 of them. Will cut off the peg ends tomorrow and start packing.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Robson ,
safe journey and return to you both . 
kia kaha mate

This blog page has a bit on a new adze style , 
iron and handle and this one has a bit more .


Following on from the bit of chat we have had about old stone and early iron tools .

Here is an interesting read of names and terms for woodworking tools and equipment from here . 
The list is in no way comprehensive , and it carries more than one word for some .

Jock


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Jock, thanks for the links on the new adze style. That is real interesting looking adze. 

I've got it bookmarked and am waiting eagerly for the video he plans on making.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

trc65 said:


> I've got it bookmarked and am waiting eagerly for the video he plans on making.


 Me too :icon_smile:


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## Pop Pop (Jul 17, 2011)

To eliminate or reduce the splitting of the haft, would it be feasible to make a two piece haft? A handle and the angled arm. The handle could be attached to the angled arm with a thru M & T joint similar to a hammer and handle.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

That is definitely a possibility. If you take a look at the links that Jock posted in #43 that is exactly what that person has done in making his chairmakers' adze. It is a beautiful tool and everything I've read about it has been very positive. I'd love to have one, but as they are made in very small lots by a chairmaker, they are probably priced way out of my league.

Keep in mind that the adze that Robson Valley and I are experimenting with are "carving adze". Robson is using his for that purpose, and I am experimenting with using it firstly to shape seats and maybe experiment with carving bowls at some time. These are very lightweight tools and the iron on these is shaped from a 1/8" tool steel. I think that the one Jock linked to is made from 1/4" steel so is a much more robust tool designed for more vigorous chopping.

In the design of these adze, flex in the shaft is important for them to work. Ideally, one would use the fork of a tree for both strength and flexibility. The one piece haft made from flat sawn wood is a quick adaptation that for me at least is being used because it is quick to make and serves the purpose while I'm trying to learn use of the tool. I will eventually find and use a natural crook after I become a little more proficient in its use.

Admittedly, the Kestrel Tools adze is probably not the ideal tool for what I'm doing with it (carving seats out of hardwood), but it was affordable, is a good design and made by a small independent shop (all positives in my mind). If I decide to start making more than a few chairs I will probably invest in a heavier adze or make one my self out of some leaf springs while keeping this one for carving bowls and other uses.

Bear in mind, I am a mere neophyte in the use/design/theory of this tool so what I'm talking about is mostly regurgitating what I'm reading about them - and about one week of practicing with it


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Very interesting design. 
1. I can't help but question the bash-worthiness of the joint between the head and the handle, epoxy or not. I like the blade attachment. Otherwise, there's the usual huge load on the rear of the blade notch like the traditional Pacific NW design.
2. The designer does describe hand placement for different sorts of strikes. Experience tells me that a small adze can't take hard hacking strikes = build a bigger adze.
Given the shallow angle of the elbow plus the shallow bend in the blade, the geometry of the Holm Constant would put my hand off the end of the handle = too short for me chipping in wood carving fashion. Even the Kestrel Tool Baby Sitka design is about 1" too short for me.
3. It will be quite beautiful, hope the video shows lots of action and not just another build.

MJ thanks for the links but the book was locked. There are about 120 adze pictures in the online UBC/MOA catalog. . . . all over the planet and they all have a sameness in general appearance.

Pop Pop: Unless the haft is cut from a tree branch +trunk piece, the elbow adze handles have flat-sawn grain and a pegged head for added strength. Usually, the peg runs the length of the head.
Just got the pegs in straight on 3 new handles. There's another design where the peg runs across the apex of the elbow with one end emerging in the blade notch. I want to do that one as well and try it.
My stumbling block has been a technique to get the peg hole drilled in a predictable direction. Done it.

Kestrel Tool has worked with the Pacific Northwest native carving community for more than 30 years.
I bought a blade from them, sort of based on that historical reputation in the carving community.

BTW all, if you go to Kestrel's website, Charlie is trying to raise $$$ to buy Gregg out so he can semi-retire. Interesting gifts if you care to buy in before Apr 21.


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## Manuka Jock (Jun 27, 2011)

Robson Valley said:


> MJ thanks for the links but the book was locked. There are about 120 adze pictures in the online UBC/MOA catalog. . . . all over the planet and they all have a sameness in general appearance.


Robson , 
the link was to an old Maori dictionary , the tool section . No pictures , words only .

Not sure why it was locked , it is a Google page .

New Zealand Māori Word Encyclopedia , (page 381)

By Sally-Anne Lambert


I googled 
> New Zealand Māori Word Encyclopedia tools titoki axe <
and got this this 
http://books.google.co.nz/books?id=IIShzeI-l2IC&pg=PA381&lpg=PA381&dq=New+Zealand+M%C4%81ori+Word+Encyclopedia+tools++titoki+axe&source=bl&ots=ixztRtdrqG&sig=arVMojPta-uFoxc2C1npsMgoO_0&hl=en&sa=X&ei=ruY5U4vuAYaFlAW48IDICQ&ved=0CCkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=New%20Zealand%20M%C4%81ori%20Word%20Encyclopedia%20tools%20%20titoki%20axe&f=false


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