# Polyurethane / Paste Wax Finish for Desk?



## DGalt (Jun 12, 2010)

Hi all 

I'm in the process of building a desk (well....it's more of a table but it'll be used as a desk) and am curious about the finish.

The desk is made of a piece of oak plywood. I stained it and have applied several (5) layers of Minwax glossy oil polyurethane. The finish is passable enough (more or less smooth, etc.)

My question is whether I should just leave it this way or apply a layer of paste wax (after brushing it over with some steel wool or fine sand paper to get off any of the few little bumps that are still left).

My only concern is how durable the wax will be, seeing as this is a desk that will be used rather regularly. It would be nice to be able to knock off the last couple bumps and to dull down the shine to a less-than-blinding level, but not if the resulting finish needs to be touched up every other weeks. (I don't mind a couple times a yr, but too often and it just becomes a hassle)

Thanks :thumbsup:


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## jlhaslip (Jan 16, 2010)

Sand off the 'bumps' and wipe on another coat of a mix of poly and thinner using equal parts of each.
Let it dry 24 hours and check it out.


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## DGalt (Jun 12, 2010)

Any suggestions for how one wipes on poly? (i.e. type of cloth, type of motion, do you just dip the cloth in the poly?...never wiped on any type of finish)

Also, does that ratio apply to any type of oil poly? I'm using Minwax fast drying clear glossy.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Any of the oil base finishes can be easily wiped on using a "T" shirt type fabric that is clean and lint free. Fold into a neat pad (2"sq or 3"sq), that is easy to handle and control.

Stir the mix slowly and do not shake. You don't want bubbles. Dip the pad to dampen, but don't make it dripping wet.

I wipe as I would if it was a brush, with the grain in even strokes. Don't try to "work" the finish. Just lay it down in a smooth even path without making bubbles or nibs. If the mix is thin enough the finish will come out best with several thin applications, allowing each one to dry. Scuff sand between coats with 320x. 

A good sandpaper, like the light gray silicon carbide (intended for dry use), depending on brand could be called "no-fil", "free-cut", or "open coat".

Trying to make a heavy coat can result in obvious path marks.


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## DGalt (Jun 12, 2010)

How thin is thin? With the cloth just being damp I definitely can see a sheen from applying the poly/mineral spirit mix, but not much more than that in terms of adding an appreciable amount. Is this what I'm supposed to be going for? (I.e applying a very thing film)


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

DGalt said:


> How thin is thin? With the cloth just being damp I definitely can see a sheen from applying the poly/mineral spirit mix, but not much more than that in terms of adding an appreciable amount. Is this what I'm supposed to be going for? (I.e applying a very thing film)



Yes...a thin application. Take a sample and experiment to get the hang of wiping.


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## DGalt (Jun 12, 2010)

Thanks for the input so far, I've got the second coat on and it's looking decent. 


Going back to the original question....is buffing the poly out a bit with some steel wool and then appling a paste wax over it a bad idea? 

Just trying to consider a couple different options


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

DGalt said:


> Thanks for the input so far, I've got the second coat on and it's looking decent.
> 
> 
> Going back to the original question....is buffing the poly out a bit with some steel wool and then appling a paste wax over it a bad idea?
> ...



You can achieve any sheen you want with *just* oil base polyurethane. I don't wax anything but my truck, and as we all know it will need continual waxing. Now, If the paint needs a fixin', or the truck needs a paintin', all that wax has to come off.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

The best product for rubbing out a finish is Mirka Abralon pads. If you want a low sheen 1000 grit is all you need, they have a soft back which works on a hook type velcro pad on a DA sander. Just mist a little water on the surface and sand with the abralon pad. (Don't use too much water if you are using an electric sander ) You can go all the way to 4000 for more gloss or even buff after 4000 grit. The surface should feel like glass when you are done if you have an acceptable finish to begin with.


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## jeffetx (Jun 25, 2010)

*sorta OT*

Hiya from Texas;
Could anyone please tell how G. Nakashima produced the most common finish he used?
thanks
jeffetx


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## Pondy (Oct 17, 2018)

It will depend on how obsessed you are about your finish. I assume if you are considering buffing, you don't want any notable flaws in your work. You'll need to have a near-perfect finish after sanding your second to last coat if you rub on the last coat, and you'll need an amazingly dust-free environment and cloth (good luck) to avoid the little nibs. You will likely feel a rough finish after wiping a final coat of oil-based polyurethane, and that's okay if you don't want it to look AND feel smooth. It might seem smooth enough, but if you've ever done a well-polished finish, you'll know what I mean. People love to run their hands across a well-finished finish. 

There are other ways to get a well-finished finish; however, wax is a perfectly legitimate way that has stood the test of time. Some woodworkers can be so adverse to a little waxing of their furniture, and then brag about spending time to do it to their cars? Hobbyists make furniture because it's a labor of love, and waxing shouldn't be exempt from that. It really takes little time and effort to wax furniture and it can last a long time, if done correctly. Then, if done correctly, it's so easy to clean and reapply to restore a beautiful finish you can be proud of.


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