# New TS cabinet



## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

Before I started making our kitchen cabinets, I decided that my TS setup need improvement. In another thread I had already bought and installed the Delta T2 fence on my flex-cable Craftsman (1980's).

This weekend I decided to make a cabinet for it using wood and sheet material I had laying around. I kept the cast wings for now because the T2 was attached to them and I didn't want to mess up the alignment i had done already. I built it out of 2x4s, 3/4" MDF and some 1/4" masonite paneling. This definitely isn't the ideal TS cabinet, but I had to make something fast.

I started with the frame:










Then I removed the saw from the Craftsman stand it was on and installed it in the cabinet:










Finally, after installing the MDF top and cutting it out to clear the splitter/guard (sorry about the blurry picture):










I still have to put the 1/4" masonite back on it,but here is a shot of the back. The motor is enclosed by the cabinet, and the center section at the bottom is where the dust collector will hook up to: 










Tomorrow night I plan to build the outfeed table, which will fold up from the back. Also, I need to extend the miter slots onto the outfeed table and make a ZCI insert.

The only thing I need to do then is build a sled and I will be ready to build the kitchen cabinets.

Steve


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

As the proud owner of perhaps the only other Craftsman 10" Flex drive saw with a T2 on this forum, I compliment you on your saw bench. :thumbsup:

I've often thought of making one for mine, but I need the space under the wing because that is where our lawn mower lives when I'm not sawing, or mowing.


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## Manco247 (Dec 21, 2013)

That looks real nice so far. I noticed you have it mobile as well. As a suggestion by what i see though, it might be a good idea to put another set of casters in the middle, as it might sag due to the width and weight from everything in the drawers. ( i am assuming there are going to be drawers in it as well.

Post photos of it completed want to see how it comes out


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Looks good! Im building something similar and will post pics when I do. Im hoping to start mine toward the end of the month. One tjing I noticed on yours is that it dosnt look like you left enough room flr the splitter to tilt with the blade. Also dosnt look like you cam get yoir splitter off to cut dados.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

That's a super addition to your saw setup. Nice job! :thumbsup:


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

BassBlaster said:


> Looks good! Im building something similar and will post pics when I do. Im hoping to start mine toward the end of the month. One tjing I noticed on yours is that it dosnt look like you left enough room flr the splitter to tilt with the blade. Also dosnt look like you cam get yoir splitter off to cut dados.


The pictures don't show it clearly, but there is enough room for the splitter to tilt with the blade. I can also remove the splitter, as it is held in place with wing nuts and only has to slide back about 1/2" and then pulls straight up. I had these same two concerns you do and tried tilting and removing it just to be sure.

johnnie52: I thought about getting a different saw as most people don't care for the flex-drive but I figure I'll use it until the flex cable breaks or I want a better contractor's saw and then I can mod the top part of the cabinet to accomodate the new saw.

Manco247: I thought about adding a pair of extra casters in the center. Unfortunately the concrete floor in my shop (which was a small barn previously) is very uneven and its hard enough to find a spot where the 4 outside edge casters will be on the same level. The back of the cabinet has a 1/4" masonite cover attached so that side really can't sag in the middle. I'll be watching the front side to see if it starts sagging in the middle. I bought the 3" locking casters at Harbor Freight for $4 each. I am pushing their (overstated) max weight limit right now, but they seem to be working OK and the locking mechanism works good. Their better casters didn't have a locking feature, which is mandatory in this application, until the wheels got really big (too big for the cabinet).

Tonight I hope to have the outfeed table made and installed.

I also need a ZCI insert. We have a small shop at work with a mill, so I might try to make an aluminum one with replaceable wood insert. I saw a homemade one somewhere on the net and it looked good.

I used some ideas I found here on the forum, so thanks to everyone for sharing their ideas and projects. 

Steve


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Gheesh. My last post was from my phone. Can you tell that fat fingers and a little touch screen keyboard dont work well together? lol.

Keep us posted with new pics as you get it finished up. Im still up in the air about how exactly I wanna make mine. I know on the far right end I wanna put a router table in. Im also considering buying a second Emerson saw and mounting them in side by side and using the left as a dedicated rip saw and the right as a dedicated cross cut. Either could be used for dado's. I was nosing around on CL yesterday and theres at least 10 likely candidates and one in particular thgat I think i can pick up for about 75 bucks if the guy would ever answer his phone. I would want to only have to have one fence though. I plan to use a T2. Care to measure your rails and tell me how long they are?


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## EWerner (Oct 14, 2010)

For a simple dust collection you could inset a drawer in to center section beneath the sea to catch the saw dust. That is what I did and it works very well.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

cambriahouse said:


> This definitely isn't the ideal TS cabinet, but I had to make something fast.


Are you kidding? ... It's looking *FANTASTIC !!!*

I need to do the exact same thing for my Craftsman TS w/ T2 Fence - and now I'm thinking I may very well follow your lead. 



Any chance you can *share the dimensions of this masterpiece-in-progress?* (i.e. base, top, sides, etc.). 
*Also . . . . . *
- Are you using basic butt-joint joinery (w/ wood screws)? 
- How many 2x4's do you think you're using?
- How many sheets of MDF and plywood?


:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> Any chance you can *share the dimensions of this masterpiece-in-progress?* (i.e. base, top, sides, etc.).
> *Also . . . . . *
> - Are you using basic butt-joint joinery (w/ wood screws)?
> - How many 2x4's do you think you're using?
> ...


Thanks for the compliment!

I made the cabinet 72 inches long and 36 inches deep. It's 36 inches deep so the motor would be fully inside the cabinet and not stick out the back at all. This allows me to put an outfeed table on that can fold completely against the back without hitting the motor.

I wanted the table to be 36" high so I subtracted the height of the casters (3 3/4") from the 36" and got a height of 32 1/4" for the cabinet itself. The full-length and width shelf that the saw sits on is set at a height that makes the saw table 36" high.

Yes, I am using basic butt-joints with #9x3" deck screws. I tried to keep high-stress joints supported by short vertical 2x4s to keep the screws from doing the supporting. For example, the center shelf holding the saw is supported in all 4 corners by vertical 2x4s that it sits on. I added 2x4s running front to back (again supported by short vertical 2x4s to the base) directly under the sides of the metal saw box to keep this area from flexing. I intentionally made the saw itself sit slightly lower (1/4") than the MDF top because I could shim it up as needed to match the MDF top height. I found that my metal saw box was not consistant in height and varied about 1/8" front to back.

The bottom is a piece of 3/4" x 36" x 72" plywood. I didn't use MDF because the casters would put a lot of pressure on it and I felt plywood would hold up better. The saw shelf and the top is made of 3/4" MDF.

I think I used about 12 8' 2x4s.

The MDF all came from one 49" x 97" sheet. However, I will need more for the outfeed table.

I arbitrarily made the right side of the cabinet end even with the end of the T2 rail.

Tonight I added the outfeed table to the back. It's 49 inches wide and 22" deep. Here are two pictures so far:

Outfeed table up:










Outfeed table down:










The outfeed table hinges on a pair of 4" door hinges, which lets me pull the hinge pins and remove the outfeed table if needed. It's being held up temporarily with a piece of wood. I still need to make a folding angle support to hold it up. Then route a pair of miter slots to match the saw.

*Bassblaster:* The rails are 53 3/16" long. However, the front square tube that the fence rides on extends 4 9/16" past the end of the front rail on the right side.

Steve


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

cambriahouse said:


> johnnie52: I thought about getting a different saw as most people don't care for the flex-drive but I figure I'll use it until the flex cable breaks or I want a better contractor's saw and then I can mod the top part of the cabinet to accomodate the new saw.


I thought the same thing 4 years ago. Since then I have cut pretty much every thing there is including that concrete board for bathroom walls and the cable is still going strong. Darn thing just won't quit! Best $70.00 I ever spent on a used tool. :laughing:

As far as support for the center goes, you could always use large bolts 3/4 to 1" dia.) to support the weight at the center if it becomes an issue. Then you would not need it get it level, just position the saw and screw the bolts down to hold the weight.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks. Thats very helpful. Those will be plenty long enough to span both saws since I dont plan to use any wongs and I plan to mount the rails as far right as possible since I dont need the fence left of the blade. Is the scale allready stuck to the tube when it comes oit of the package? Would it be possible to peel it off and put another one on?


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

BassBlaster said:


> Is the scale allready stuck to the tube when it comes oit of the package? Would it be possible to peel it off and put another one on?


Yes, the scale is already stuck onto the tube. I have seen other posts where people have peeled it off and they stuck it back on. The way I mounted mine, the scale is off about an inch so I have to reposition mine also. I will let you know how it goes.

Steve


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

johnnie52 said:


> I thought the same thing 4 years ago. Since then I have cut pretty much every thing there is including that concrete board for bathroom walls and the cable is still going strong. Darn thing just won't quit! Best $70.00 I ever spent on a used tool. :laughing:


I bought my saw new back in the mid-1980s. It has broken the flex cable only once. The flex cable idea is actually pretty good as it eliminates movement of the motor. Probably has a limit to how strong the motor can be. In the early 60s Pontiac sold a Tempest with a rear transaxle that was connected to the engine with a big flex cable. Maybe we can use that to replace our flex cable if it breaks?:laughing:


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

I like your set up. You have made your TS much more functional than before. The structure you built looks very sturdy as well as storable. Good problem solving on your part!

Bret


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## geltz61 (May 2, 2013)

Very nice! I may have to rethink my setup.


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

Here is a CAD drawing of the top:










The overall top is 36" deep x 72" wide.

The center section in black is the saw itself (the two miter slots are show).

The purple sections on each side are the cast iron wings.

The green parts are the rails and guide tube for the Delta T2.

The blue rectangles (3 of them) are the MDF sections that serve as the table extensions. Note that I had to leave 1/2" behind the rear T2 rail to allow me to drop the hook on the back of the fence over the rail.



Steve


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

Are you planning on building in drawers or doors on the front - for storage or whatnot?


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> Are you planning on building in drawers or doors on the front - for storage or whatnot?


Yes. I hope to install drawers for table saw accessories (blades, inserts, etc) and also to hold other power tool accessories and if there is room left maybe some small power tools (drills, sanders, etc) could be stored there. 

For now I am not going to build drawers or doors because I have to move on to the kitchen cabinet build.

I also plan on installing a router to the right of the TS in the MDF panel.

I still have to rig up a support for the outfeed table and cut miter slots in the outfeed table (and the MDF behind the blade).

Steve


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

cambriahouse said:


> I still have to rig up a support for the outfeed table and cut miter slots in the outfeed table (and the MDF behind the blade).
> 
> Steve


Will you be able to do so with the gap for the rear fence rail - not to mention the rail itself?


Also, might you be able to snap a few shots of your dust collection bin setup under the table saw?


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> Also, might you be able to snap a few shots of your dust collection bin setup under the table saw?


Here are a few shots of the DC setup.

The table saw shelf has a rectangular hole cut out under it to match the hole in the bottom of the saw. I boxed in the area under the saw and added an inclined bottom to make the dust flow down to the back:










Then I made a door to fit over it. The door is held on with a pair of wing nuts that screw onto hangar bolts that screwed into the 2x4s on the cabinet. This allows me to remove it in case it plugs up. I found that a 2 1/2" wiring grommet fits a shopvac hose pretty closely. I am referring to the plastic grommets that you insert in a hole, usually on a computer table, to run cables through the table top. Here is a picture:











Steve


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

Here are some more pictures of the finished (for now) cabinet:

I used some expanding struts to hold the outfeed table up. These struts rotate to tighten or loosen them, so I have a "micro-adjust" capability on the angle of the outfeed table. People with travel trailer will recognize these as slide locks used when you travel with the trailer. I "stole" them from our trailer and will worry about replacing them in the spring. Also similar in design are the cargo bars used in pickup truck beds.










To test for strength and if the outfeed table would make the saw "tippy" I had my son sit on the edge. It will not tip even with a lot of weight on the table.










Finally, I cut the miter slots in the outfeed table and the piece of MDF behind the fence rail. I tried my sled and it fits and slides smoothly:










That's all I am going to do for now.

Future enhancements include drawers, formica top, add router to right side.

Steve


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

*THANK YOU SO MUCH* for the inspiration, Steve . . . *AWESOME JOB !!!*

I have been researching and looking at dozens of table saw cabinet ideas and plans for many many months - but after seeing what you have done here, 
I am heading over to Home Depot to pick up a load of 2x4s and some sheet wood to start building *THE CAMBRIAHOUSE CUSTOM*. 

:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Nice cabinet. How big is the shop?


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

toolguy1000 said:


> Nice cabinet. How big is the shop?


Thanks eveyone for the compliments. Sometimes the stuff I design and build as I go along works well:smile:, and sometimes it doesn't:huh:. In this case it seems to work fine, but I will keep everyone informed of any drawbacks as I find them.

My shop is about 16x32 feet. Its an old small "barn" that was on the property about 60 feet behind the house when I bought the house. When we bought it, the shop building had a huge pile of wood shavings mixed with horse manure (the former owners raised horses). It's attached to a 32x48 pole barn that was built just before we bought the property. The walls were only about 6'6" high, so the best I could do is a ceiling of about 7' high. I had to remove the 4x4 base plate all along the perimeter and replace it with a PT 4x4. Then I insulated it completely with fiberglass insulation and covered the walls and ceiling with 7/16" OSB painted white. Finally, I ran 220V 40A electric and also a gas line in a trench from the house. It's heated with a gas wall heater I got from CL for $60. It was below zero here yesterday so the heat is very welcome. The floor is a bunch of different concrete pours over the years, so some is smooth and some is rough, but better than nothing. 

Steve


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

That looks plenty strong enough and stable too. Nicely done. :thumbsup:


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

Any updates with the drawers you wanted to build for the stand/cabinet?

:smile:


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> Any updates with the drawers you wanted to build for the stand/cabinet?
> 
> :smile:


 
No updates on any more TS cabinet additions.

I am starting the kitchen cabinets now so we can have a finished kitchen in the next couple of months. I will be using the TS cabinet as is until the kitchen is done, then I will finish the TS cabinet project by adding the drawers, router, etc.

One thing I forgot about and am adding in the next few days is a ZCI for the Craftsman TS. It will be made of aluminum with a wood insert that is replaceable.

Steve


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

I did end up doing one more mod.

Here is my ZCI:

I made an aluminum frame with a cutout for both a regular blade and a dado blade. The ZCI aluminum is 1/2" thick and I used the mill at work to cut down the edge and ends to fit the insert ledge on the saw. I removed the holddown tab from the Craftsman insert and screwed it to the new ZCI. Also I drilled and tapped 4 holes for the height adjustment allen screws that were in the Craftsman insert (bottom view):










I then cut a dovetail-edged slot for the replaceable wood insert. The dovetail keeps the wood in place. Note the sloppy fit of the wood piece, this was just a test piece I cut. Actual pieces will be made more precisely:










Here is the bare aluminum frame installed in the saw:










Finally, here is the complete ZCI installed on the saw. Again, the wood piece was a test piece and isn't even long enough. I hope to make a few real wood inserts in the next few days:










Steve


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

I swear, we have nearly the exact same Craftsman table saw ... right down to the "spiral" looking finish on the cast iron table top and that yellow "exact-cut" dot thing.
The only thing that appears different is that your side wings are the "web" kind, and mind are solid.


Anyway . . . I'm about 3/4 way done with _my_ cabinet - based on your design. :smile:


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> Anyway . . . I'm about 3/4 way done with _my_ cabinet - based on your design. :smile:


Make sure you post pictures of your cabinet when you are done!

Steve


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

cambriahouse said:


> Make sure you post pictures of your cabinet when you are done!
> 
> Steve


I've been taking WIP pics along the way - similar to what you did. There have been a couple of minor modifications here and there, but for the most part I am following your design nearly exactly.
I will try to get them up on photobucket or flickr or something soon.


*THANK YOU AGAIN* for the inspiration !!!


:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:


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## Bumpus (Aug 4, 2012)

Now why can't some company come up with a ZCI like that for scale? I'd buy one of those. Should you ever decide to sell those, I'm interested! I believe that's my exact insert.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

Hey Steve . . . How has the TS Stand been working for you so far?

Any updates or modifications since last visited?



:smile:


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## MasterSplinter (Jan 12, 2013)

WOW Great job. That is on my list of things to do once my basement is done.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

MasterSplinter said:


> WOW Great job. That is on my list of things to do once my basement is done.


I'm in the middle stages of building this project as well. At present, mine looks like the very first photo in this thread - with the center mdf shelf installed as well.

Have had to skip a few weekends due to other commitments and a need to find a straight 2x4 for the rear rail ... but it's coming along nicely (I think). :huh:


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## beagles53 (Feb 14, 2014)

This is mine from a few years back. You'll recognise the LHS cabinet, it was based on an item in a early issue of Shopnotes. There is a sheet metal chute under the blade that directs most of the sawdust to that box in the back. The wheels on the LHS are mounted on a pivoting beam (three point mount) that keeps the saw stable and free from rocking.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

CaptainMarvel said:


> I'm in the middle stages of building this project as well. At present, mine looks like the very first photo in this thread - with the center mdf shelf installed as well.
> 
> Have had to skip a few weekends due to other commitments and a need to find a straight 2x4 for the rear rail ... but it's coming along nicely (I think). :huh:


 Is there a reason your going to keep the rear rail? Just wondering as Im also getting ready to start a similar project and also going to use a T2. I had planned to just scrap the rear rail and let the top support the fence with a thin glide pad attached. Since the T2 is a Beis clone, all its squaring and locking mechanisms are at the front rail. The rear rail is nothing but support for those rips where the fence is pushed out passed the end of the saw. On a stand like this, the rail really wont extend past the end.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

BassBlaster said:


> Is there a reason your going to keep the rear rail? Just wondering as Im also getting ready to start a similar project and also going to use a T2. I had planned to just scrap the rear rail and let the top support the fence with a thin glide pad attached. Since the T2 is a Beis clone, all its squaring and locking mechanisms are at the front rail. The rear rail is nothing but support for those rips where the fence is pushed out passed the end of the saw. On a stand like this, the rail really wont extend past the end.


By "rear rail" - I was referring to the rear 2x4 - as pictured in the first photo in this thread. 

I'm still deciding whether to keep the rear rail for the T2 fence for the table saw itself. 
Like yourself, I may not use it at all.


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> Hey Steve . . . How has the TS Stand been working for you so far?
> 
> Any updates or modifications since last visited?
> 
> ...


So far the TS cabinet has been working good for the few times I have used it. Most of my time has been spent finishing the walls, floor, and ceiling in the kitchen. When the ceramic tile floor is installed (in the next week or so hopefully), work will shift full-time to making the cabinets, this is when I will really find out how well (or not so well!) it works.

I have just about finished the crosscut sled for the saw. Its about 32" x 48" and I will need it for the cabinets.

Another project that is about halfway finished is my homemade track saw using my circular saw and a removable steel bar. It will ride in a slot in a piece of 8' long PB melamine. This will also be needed for the cabinet build to break down the sheets of prefinished maple plywood.

Someone mentioned not installing the rear rail of the T2 fence. That might be a good idea and then it would reduce the complexity of the cabinet by not having to notch around the rear rail.

Steve


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