# HELP! d/c system refinment



## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Alright so first, heres the base of my current set up..
http://www.harborfreight.com/13-gallon-industrial-portable-dust-collector-31810.html
the reason i chose this one was because of the lower amps use, I'm able to run it on the breaker running the lights for the shop, as i only have 2 20 amp breakers for the shop.
right now i have this little machine mounted in the attic, it runs through a 10' flex hose to a separator lid on a metal trash can (the lid is 6' off the floor), than from there run's 2 more 10' sections of 4" flex hose to a quick connect i move tool to tool as i use them.

From what i can tell part of my lack of grunt in this set up is the bag, the separator rather than a baffle, and possibly the flex hose.

the question, is this setup worth getting the rockler bag
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22625&filter=dust collector bag
and stealing the designs put forth for a baffle set up for my trash can, and swapping out the flex pipes for 4" PVC?
Also if i did those things, would i be able to run a gated line dedicated to the TS, and a gated flex line to attach to other things as i use them?
With my present set up when the bag is half full the can is 1/4 filled up, so i am hoping based on what Ive seen of the baffle experiments here that the baffle will trap more in the can, and greatly improving the system by not filling the bag up so much.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

For that price the bag would be worth it but still not good enough nor is it the problem. That DC unit is over rated at the 650 cfm which is already like a bare minimum you would want, especially trying to have longer hose runs, a separator and using it as a stationary unit. For just a few dollars more you can have the larger unit which would work much better. You could still use a better bag or preferably a canister type filter. 

Next thing is the separator. If your not using a Thien baffle then you might want to look at the below links it's much better then just a plain lid on a can. I know it's more money for the bigger unit but not much more and if you knew the difference in performance between the two you would realize your wasting money on the smaller unit. You may have to add a circuit but the extra cost for that would be worth it for sure. You can add a sub panel and have room for more circuits which is always needed.

If you want or have to stay with that DC unit then get the new bag at the very least.

That's just mt opinion 

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/dust-collector-27823/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/forget-dust-deputy-27235/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/dust-collection-improvement-expriment-23236/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/my-thien-baffle-28115/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/jet-hf-dust-collector-thien-mods-25178/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/jet-vortex-dust-collector-dc1100-27121/

There may be more but These links cover allot of the info on the baffle and dust collection system improvements.


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

yup you kind of seconded my ideas across the board as far as the d/c being too little for my needs. I guess i should try to figure out what the value of that D/C is used, and look at running power out there. What ga. of wire is required to run to a small sub panel? 
I'm going to build the baffle since i will need it regardless but I'm thinking the long range plan is make a little shelter for a full size dc next to the shop with room for the baffle can and my compressor, and run a bit more wire.
Right now it seems like my 12gal 5hp (lmao) ridgid vac has more power to it.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Well there are many threads on the subject of sub panels also. Size wire will depend on the circuit size and length of run. You will have to use 3 plus a ground for a sub panel red and black for hot legs, white for neutral (needed for 110 circuits) and the ground. I have a 60 amp panel with #4 wire.

As for the outside room that works with the exception of creating a negative air flow which could cause problems. make sure you have an air return of some sort returning the air from the room to the shop and it will prevent the negative air flow.


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

alright, update. I went to menards today and grabbed up some 5" hvac pipes in 5' lengths, some 90's and some reducers to 4". my plan is 5
of 5" pipe between the d/c and the baffle im going to build, than 5" out of the collection can 10'. at this point im planing to either t it off, run a 5 foot line down the wall for the ts than reduce to 4" with a blast gate and flex hose to connect to the TS or planer.
I am also thinking of putting a T in, running 15' of 5", than dropping down to 4" at the RAS but am concerned even with aluminum blast gates at the 4" conversion places that i will have enough D/C to pull the chips.
I was useing my set up with the trash can lid set up, 10 feet of flex between it and the d/c, and another 15' between the can and planer, and i fairly quickly plugged up the flex line between the planer and can, so my very least hope is that by having a smooth interior pipe sealed better and larger pipe i can prevent this. I don't feel im getting very good seals with the HF hose clamps that came with there kits.
If this doesnt pan out, than i will buy and wire up the full size HF d/c and build an exterior enclosure for it venting back into the shop.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

I still think that the little DC unit is most of your problem. You should get allot better suction through the larger smooth pipe. Use WYE fittings instead of a TEE. Better flow pattern.


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

rrbrown, yes im thinking the same way..Just threw that bitty D/C on CL, see if i can recoupe a little of it towards a new one and get it out of the shop. I have problems with multiple similar equiptment bulding up around here, lol. also need to check into some YWE's


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