# Delta unisaw - should I buy? Help!!



## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

Think I just came across a steal of a deal. Please tell me what you think and if this saw is worthy of being a mainstay in my hobby woodshop for 5-10 years! Below is what's listed in the ad. I'm going to see it this afternoon and want to know if I should take cash with me or not . Thanks!! 

He's asking $650 for it but I was thinking about handing him $600. 

The ad says: 10" Delta tablesaw with Biesemeyer fence, table allows up to 51" cuts. Wired 220. Just don't use anymore. Great saw!! Call\text with any ?s. Cuts square and true. See photos.


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

I forgot to add: he's asking $650 for it but I was thinking about handing him $600


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Dang! Where do yo live? Two good saw listings in a couple of days. I only see one every 6 months or so.

Back to the saw: How many HP is it? It looks like it's been taken care of, so my guess if its 3 or 5 HP, it's worth $600.

On a side note, anyone, isn't 1.5 HP under powered for a Unisaw or any cabinet saw for that matter?


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

You had better get your arse over there fast. That appears to be one of the anniversary saws they made back in the 90's (the Ivory color) they advertised it with a pic of Norm leaning against it.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Make sure it's single phase.....and if it is you should already be in the car.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I would tear my pocket off getting my billfold out so fast. That saw is way newer than mine and $600 won't touch my saw.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The guy may sober up by the time you get there. 








 







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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

cabinetman said:


> The guy may sober up by the time you get there.


:thumbsup: Post of the week.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

If it's single phase, give him the $650 and you'll both smile. :thumbsup: Worth noting that it's right tilt....not a deal breaker for me....


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Right tilt, especially if the operator is inexperienced, would be a deal breaker for me. I refurbed, and sold, a 70s vintages unisaw, which I got for $40 in gas money to see what all the fuss was about unisaws. I don't miss it at all, except when bragging rights to old machinery ownership come up. It's a good price for that saw(mine went for $850 with the OEM fence). I just don't care for saws whose blade tilts towards the fence when it's time for bevel rips. Moving the fence to the left of the blade will address this for relatively narrow rips, but the majority of the rip capacity is to the right of the blade. There is a slightly enhanced opportunity for kickback on bevel rips as the work piece can get trapped between the fence and the blade.

If that potential safety issue isn't an issue for you, get the referenced saw. Good luck with your search.


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

Just saw the saw. Looks sharp. I'm going to get money. He claims there are several people calling him about it luckily I was first on the scene


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Then you have a real gloat; congrats!


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

Just bought the saw and I'm leaving the guys house headed home. I'll have more to report later with pictures maybe a short video about it thanks for all your input


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## Kitchenator (Jan 3, 2014)

I just paid more than twice that for a next to new delta platinum edition. Yours looks just as nice. Is that a real 3 hp saw? Lucky devil. Got the mobile base and a delta tenon jig with mine(though I rarely have need for that). Congrats you have a beautiful saw.


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## Kitchenator (Jan 3, 2014)

toolguy1000 said:


> Right tilt, especially if the operator is inexperienced, would be a deal breaker for me. I refurbed, and sold, a 70s vintages unisaw, which I got for $40 in gas money to see what all the fuss was about unisaws. I don't miss it at all, except when bragging rights to old machinery ownership come up. It's a good price for that saw(mine went for $850 with the OEM fence). I just don't care for saws whose blade tilts towards the fence when it's time for bevel rips. Moving the fence to the left of the blade will address this for relatively narrow rips, but the majority of the rip capacity is to the right of the blade. There is a slightly enhanced opportunity for kickback on bevel rips as the work piece can get trapped between the fence and the blade.
> 
> If that potential safety issue isn't an issue for you, get the referenced saw. Good luck with your search.





I chose a right tilt on purpose. I already have a left tilt saw (ok it's a contractors saw with the legs but its plenty strong. I wanted a right tilt so I can add a sliding table attachment and make really clean face up bevel cuts on panels with the slider and use the contractors saw for the odd left tilt necessity. So...I have a shop with two table saws set up. Does that mean I'm a balla now?


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

Kitchenator said:


> I just paid more than twice that for a next to new delta platinum edition. Yours looks just as nice. Is that a real 3 hp saw? Lucky devil. Got the mobile base and a delta tenon jig with mine(though I rarely have need for that). Congrats you have a beautiful saw.


Also it's a model 36-815. Anyone know anything about this lump of iron that's now in my garage!? The web is pretty sparse w info, based on my short time spent exploring for info and reviews. 

Here's a pic of the motor ID tag


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

Kitchenator said:


> I chose a right tilt on purpose. I already have a left tilt saw (ok it's a contractors saw with the legs but its plenty strong. I wanted a right tilt so I can add a sliding table attachment and make really clean face up bevel cuts on panels with the slider and use the contractors saw for the odd left tilt necessity. So...I have a shop with two table saws set up. Does that mean I'm a balla now?


A balla indeed. You are both a scholar, and a gentleman, Dr. kitchenator


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

Here is a video I just made about the saw I've been discussing in this thread. Please tell me what ya think of my new purchase! Enjoy!

http://youtu.be/9rUGHdXlb4M


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

SkySkrape said:


> Here is a video I just made about the saw I've been discussing in this thread. Please tell me what ya think of my new purchase! Enjoy!
> 
> http://youtu.be/9rUGHdXlb4M


You got a great deal, saw looks good. Did you hear it run?








 







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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

SkySkrape said:


> Just saw the saw. Looks sharp. I'm going to get money. He claims there are several people calling him about it luckily I was first on the scene


Always bring cash when you go look. Even if its just enough as a deposit to hold it. you say your coming back but someone else shows up with cash in hand and you could lose it.

Well next time. Glad it worked out for you and you got a great deal.


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

cabinetman said:


> You got a great deal, saw looks good. Did you hear it run? .


Yep. She purrs just the one I remember back in 8th grade woodshop class


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Nice saw!!The right tilt would be a dealbreaker for me as well but if that dosnt bother you, Id say you got a heck of a steal!!

Just FYI, thats a splitter not a riving knife. Riving knives are fairly new so that saw probably never had one.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Congrats on your TS buy. Looks to be pretty clean and I think the on/off switch might be a magnetic switch. Good safety feature should a breaker trip during operation or the power go out during an operation. Couple of clarifications, though. A 24tooth blade is generally not a general purpose blade but more of a ripping blade. Second, that saw does not have an OEM riving knife. That is a splitter. It does not move up and down with the blade nor can it be left in place for non thru cuts as true riving knives are. A retro fit may be possible and I believe a BORK will fit that unit.

Google "unisaw restoration" for a video series done by the publisher of popular woodworking magazine for some great tips on getting your saw to deliver to its fullest potential.

Just noticed that it draws just over 12 amps under full load, which will allow for operating a 220v DC on the same circuit in the future, assuming a draw like my 220v delta 50-850 (6A). My unisaw drew 16A in 220v configuration ( it was a dual voltage OEM Baldor motor that drew 32A in 110v configuration). 

Nice unit. Hope it serves you well.


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

If you search specifically for that model number, there will likely be very little. That saw was a more limited production run than most. The biggest difference between it and other Unisaws made in the same period is the color of the paint. Mine's a 36-955, and I would bet is identical to yours. Mine is a less exclusive model, called the "Platinum edition" (silver instead of gray). Look at the tag on the back of the saw, the first 2 digits of the serial number give you the year it was made (mine is '01). Any other unisaw made close to that date will be essentially the same.


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

Fred Hargis said:


> If you search specifically for that model number, there will likely be very little. That saw was a more limited production run than most. The biggest difference between it and other Unisaws made in the same period is the color of the paint. Mine's a 36-955, and I would bet is identical to yours. Mine is a less exclusive model, called the "Platinum edition" (silver instead of gray). Look at the tag on the back of the saw, the first 2 digits of the serial number give you the year it was made (mine is '01). Any other unisaw made close to that date will be essentially the same.


Thanks for the info, Fred. I did look up the serial last night and it appears to be stamped as a December 1998 model which is consistent with what I've learned about these.


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

toolguy1000 said:


> Congrats on your TS buy. Looks to be pretty clean and I think the on/off switch might be a magnetic switch. Good safety feature should a breaker trip during operation or the power go out during an operation. Couple of clarifications, though. A 24tooth blade is generally not a general purpose blade but more of a ripping blade. Second, that saw does not have an OEM riving knife. That is a splitter. It does not move up and down with the blade nor can it be left in place for non thru cuts as true riving knives are. A retro fit may be possible and I believe a BORK will fit that unit. Google "unisaw restoration" for a video series done by the publisher of popular woodworking magazine for some great tips on getting your saw to deliver to its fullest potential. Just noticed that it draws just over 12 amps under full load, which will allow for operating a 220v DC on the same circuit in the future, assuming a draw like my 220v delta 50-850 (6A). My unisaw drew 16A in 220v configuration ( it was a dual voltage OEM Baldor motor that drew 32A in 110v configuration). Nice unit. Hope it serves you well.


Toolguy, can you please clarify what you mean by the comment below. Are you referring to DC as direct current? I am not sure I follow.....oops I just made sense of it. DUST COLLECTOR. No clarification needed. I do have a jet 1.5 horse canister DC and a powermatic 14 inch band saw that I'd like to switch over to 220 as they are both capable. Anyone disagree?

"Just noticed that it draws just over 12 amps under full load, which will allow for operating a 220v DC on the same circuit in the future, assuming a draw like my 220v delta 50-850 (6A)."


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Congrats.....great move IMO. It's been nice to seem some new members get in on some sweet TS deals in the past couple of days. :thumbsup: Check the alignment, pulley setup, and put a good blade on it....you'll be set!


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

It came with a Tenryu blade which I have no experience with but it seems rather thin kerf'd and sharp. any experience with these? 

If anyone here is interested in a BEAUTIFUL great condition old Delta unisaw (the big bad gray/blue type) and is willing to come to Utah to get it...there's an auction next Saturday and it will be there without reserve. Great chance to pick up a saw on the cheap (Utahns in general are cheap so saws don't sell if they're too pricy). If you're used to Texas or California prices, you may think anything under 1300 is a steal I guess . If you would like to bid but don't wanna drive here, I'd be willing to place bids for anyone as a proxy but given the condition that if I win the saw on your behalf, you pay up! My wife would kill me if I threw ANOTHER table saw in the (always shrinking) garage. Photo of said saw and auction link below Go to silcoxauction.com and scan through the pics


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

*Unisaw Info*

Looks like you got yourself a great deal!

Check this page for all kinds of Unisaw info:
http://www.sawcenter.com


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

FrankC said:


> Looks like you got yourself a great deal! Check this page for all kinds of Unisaw info: http://www.sawcenter.com


Thanks for the link, Frank!


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

SkySkrape said:


> .......I do have a jet 1.5 horse canister DC and a powermatic 14 inch band saw that I'd like to switch over to 220 as they are both capable. Anyone disagree?......


the sooner the change to 220v is made, the better. the tools won't run any better or use any more or less electricity, but it will better utilize whatever power is available for your shop more effectively. i was able to run both my (briefly owned) 3 hp unisaw and a 1.5 hp DC on the same dedicated 20A 220v circuit without incident.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Congratulations! It looks like your procrastination on the 66 paid off. You Lucky Dog:yes:.


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

I had a 220v 20 amp line for my table saw and new 220v 20 amp line with 3 outlets installed for my bandsaw, DC, and jointer. installed in my garage tonight by my neighbor (electrician). All I gave him in return was dinner! Great deal if you ask me. 

In return he wants me to build him a nice dog house for his golden retriever. Done and done! 

Man it sure is nice to have the following now. 
1. My power tools always plugged in when I go to use them. No more fiddling with extension cords. 

2. No more tripping over extension cords all over the floor in my work space (an accident waiting to happen). 

3. Lights and other stuff plugged into 220 15 amp garage outlets (that I was using for all my stuff before this addition) would dim and fade when other stuff would get fired up 

4. No more walking upstairs to flip the tripped puny 15 amp breaker back to "on." 

5. Ability to add more 220v outlets as all my major power tools have the 120/220 (as we call it here in Utah) option. So I'm able to convert them if needed. For now I'll keep them at 120 though. 

6. Now I can proudly say "my shop is wired up and has plenty of juice for my needs." 

7. A friendly electrician next door that is very willing to help me out. 

8. Most importantly - my 220v saw actually runs...in my garage! Tool collecting now complete. 

Now to start improving my skills as I no longer can blame inferior machines  

Thanks for reading.


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

SkySkrape said:


> I had a 220v 20 amp line for my table saw and new 220v 20 amp line with 3 outlets installed for my bandsaw, DC, and jointer. installed in my garage tonight by my neighbor (electrician). All I gave him in return was dinner! Great deal if you ask me. In return he wants me to build him a nice dog house for his golden retriever. Done and done! Man it sure is nice to have the following now. 1. My power tools always plugged in when I go to use them. No more fiddling with extension cords. 2. No more tripping over extension cords all over the floor in my work space (an accident waiting to happen). 3. Lights and other stuff plugged into 220 15 amp garage outlets (that I was using for all my stuff before this addition) would dim and fade when other stuff would get fired up 4. No more walking upstairs to flip the tripped puny 15 amp breaker back to "on." 5. Ability to add more 220v outlets as all my major power tools have the 120/220 (as we call it here in Utah) option. So I'm able to convert them if needed. For now I'll keep them at 120 though. 6. Now I can proudly say "my shop is wired up and has plenty of juice for my needs." 7. A friendly electrician next door that is very willing to help me out. 8. Most importantly - my 220v saw actually runs...in my garage! Tool collecting now complete. Now to start improving my skills as I no longer can blame inferior machines  Thanks for reading.


Correction: 3. Lights and other stuff plugged into 120* 15 amp garage outlets (that I was using for all my stuff before this addition) would dim and fade when other stuff would get fired up


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Tenryu is an excellent brand....note that they make several different series of blades from cheaper contractor blades to excellent precision blades for finewoodworking, to heavy duty industrial stuff. I've used blades from their Rapid Cut series (RS25540 and RS25550 made in China....roughly comparable to lower to midrange Freud), and a couple of their Gold Medal GM25540, which is very comparable to the Forrest WWII (made in Japan). Clean it up and try it....a pic would help us know which one you've got.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

SkySkrape said:


> Tool collecting now complete.


Tool collecting is never complete....as soon as you convince yourself it is....a new one will pop up.


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

ryan50hrl said:


> Tool collecting is never complete....as soon as you convince yourself it is....a new one will pop up.


This is true. My wife was giving me grief the other day because I've been amassing some pretty expensive tools as of late. I told her this was my last BIG tool purchase for a long time. She just rolled her eyes and said "yeah I've heard THAT before."


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

knotscott said:


> Tenryu is an excellent brand....note that they make several different series of blades from cheaper contractor blades to excellent precision blades for finewoodworking, to heavy duty industrial stuff. I've used blades from their Rapid Cut series (RS25540 and RS25550 made in China....roughly comparable to lower to midrange Freud), and a couple of their Gold Medal GM25540, which is very comparable to the Forrest WWII (made in Japan). Clean it up and try it....a pic would help us know which one you've got.


Thanks for the knowledge share! By the way what does WWII stand for? Other than the war in the forties


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

SkySkrape said:


> Thanks for the knowledge share! By the way what does WWII stand for? Other than the war in the forties


Wood worker 2???


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

The WWII is the cats meow, when it is new it is so sharp you can hardly hear it cut, it is one smooth blade.


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## Kitchenator (Jan 3, 2014)

SkySkrape said:


> Here is a video I just made about the saw I've been discussing in this thread. Please tell me what ya think of my new purchase! Enjoy!
> 
> http://youtu.be/9rUGHdXlb4M


Fantastic congratulations again on a sweet deal


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

SkySkrape said:


> Here is a video I just made about the saw I've been discussing in this thread.[/URL]


I particularly liked your bulldog's haughty indifference to the greatness of the saw..


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## SkySkrape (Oct 8, 2013)

rbk123 said:


> I particularly liked your bulldog's haughty indifference to the greatness of the saw..


Yeah the dogs couldn't care less about new tools. New skateboards however...they are into!


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