# Bosch 4100-09 table saw



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

Anybody here use the Bosch 4100 table saw? I need a new saw and I've went back and forth over portability vs. more stability, or rather the Bosch vs. the Ridgid R4512. My Home Depot doesn't have the R4512 but they do have the R4510, which is the portable version. 

However, all three of these saws were reviewed by Wood magazine about 2 years ago and the Bosch was said to be the best of the job site type saws, even over the R4510, and the R4512 was said to be the best contractor type saw of the ones they reviewed. So I've been hung up on that review ever since. 

I'm looking for a saw that will leave a glue ready edge in wood after being ripped, if that's possible. I want a solid saw that is good out of the box and can be improved even further with a new blade, has a fence that can be trued parallel to the blade easily and is solid, and maybe could have a shop made ZCI added to it (Wood said the Bosch 4100 and Ridgid R4512 were the only ones that had an opening with edges deep enough for a ZCI to be added). Beyond that I really don't know what else I'd want it for since rip cuts are all I use one for. 

Whenever I look at the Bosch in the stores it feels cheaply made though. Most contractor saws look like they would be a LOT better for the same cost, or even less really. But, the Bosch is what is available locally, and got a great review, and would be portable. It also looks like it would do all I need.......for now. I keep thinking if I had a nicer one that I might find more use for it such as dado and cross cutting. 

I'd like to hear from anyone who has used the Bosch, or maybe even the R4510. I've seen all kinds of threads on the R4512 and it has about 80 - 90% positive reviews with the occasional negative.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> Anybody here use the Bosch 4100 table saw? I need a new saw and I've went back and forth over portability vs. more stability, or rather the Bosch vs. the Ridgid R4512. My Home Depot doesn't have the R4512 but they do have the R4510, which is the portable version.
> 
> However, all three of these saws were reviewed by Wood magazine about 2 years ago and the Bosch was said to be the best of the job site type saws, even over the R4510, and the R4512 was said to be the best contractor type saw of the ones they reviewed. So I've been hung up on that review ever since.
> 
> ...


Hi Duane - I looked over both the Bosch 4100 and the Ridgid 4510 pretty closely and I couldn't find enough difference to justify the cost difference, especially when I went the reconditioned route. They both use tool free blade guard and riving knife installation which makes a big difference in my safety habits over my old saws that didn't have that. The thing that tipped the scales, other than price differential, is that the Ridgid allows the trunnion alignment and the bevel stops to be adjusted from the table top which is a big help in getting the accuracy right. Mine looked pretty good out of the box using combo squares to check it but needed a bit when I put a dial indicator on it. Here's a pretty good source if you can live with reconditioned.
http://www.cpoprotools.com/factory-...le-saw-with-stand/rgdrzrr4510,default,pd.html

I take most magazine reviews with a grain of salt, I have no idea how their advertising revenues mix into the equations. 
:smile:


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I think you'll be disappointed if you go with the bosch over the Ridgid r4512. The bosch is still a universal motor, lightweight saw with a aluminum top. The Ridgid, cast iron top, big induction motor, and a much much better fence.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> I think you'll be disappointed if you go with the bosch over the Ridgid r4512. The bosch is still a universal motor, lightweight saw with a aluminum top. The Ridgid, cast iron top, big induction motor, and a much much better fence.


Well, the Ridgid has a 13 amp motor while the Bosch has a 15 amp so I thought the Bosch would have more power. The review said the Ridgid R4512 was a bit underpowered, but it was adequate and did all they asked it to. I think they said they just slowed the feed rate on harder woods. I've recently read it could also be ran on 240 volts though so that might make a difference. I'm not sure I could run it that way due to space in the electric panel but I do have a dedicated 120 volt circuit I could give it.

Is the cast iron top better just due to weight making it more stable, or is there some other advantage?


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Hi Duane - I looked over both the Bosch 4100 and the Ridgid 4510 pretty closely and I couldn't find enough difference to justify the cost difference, especially when I went the reconditioned route. They both use tool free blade guard and riving knife installation which makes a big difference in my safety habits over my old saws that didn't have that. The thing that tipped the scales, other than price differential, is that the Ridgid allows the trunnion alignment and the bevel stops to be adjusted from the table top which is a big help in getting the accuracy right. Mine looked pretty good out of the box using combo squares to check it but needed a bit when I put a dial indicator on it. Here's a pretty good source if you can live with reconditioned.
> http://www.cpoprotools.com/factory-...le-saw-with-stand/rgdrzrr4510,default,pd.html
> 
> I take most magazine reviews with a grain of salt, I have no idea how their advertising revenues mix into the equations.
> :smile:


I thought of this too, so I try to keep that in mind. Some of what they said about the saws can be proven by just observation of, and fiddling with, displays in stores but things like smooth cuts and plenty of power can't be proven without electric and actual wood cutting, which I can't do with the display at Lowe's.


----------



## OHNOIMONFIRE (Sep 13, 2012)

I'm happy with my bosch. Only downside is the fence which is flimsy and difficult to move.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

A few things....

1. First, the cast iron top is deeper, which gives you more space between the front of the saw and the blade, as well as the back and the blade. Think of it as trying to balance a board on sawhorses 1 foot apart, or 8 feet, which is more stable? 
2. The cast iron top is wider, allowing you to easily cut wider things. 
3. The cast iron top is heavier, a heavier saw is more stable, and easier to cut on without worrying about it tipping. 

4. The motors......amperage is unfortunetly not all created equal. Ever looked at a shop vac that claims to be 6 hp......its not....The motor in the bosch saw is whats called a direct drive universal motor. The motor in the ridgid saw is a induction style motor, when it says 13 amps, and 1.5 hp....it means it. Much better torque and cutting power. 

5. Rewiring your saw to 220 will not give it more power, it cuts the amperage in half, thus allowing you to have lighter wiring running to it. Now many that have rewired to 220 do report it feels like more power, and thats likely to the idea that a saw on 220 will spin up faster, so it seems to recover faster when bogged down. 

6. One other option....the craftsman 21833 has a larger motor than the ridgid 4512, it goes to 15 amps from 13, and 1.75hp from 1.5. there are a few other differences but all in all...its a almost identical saw with some upgrades.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Theres a ton of other differences between the ridgid/craftsman and the bosch. End of the day, if you buy the bosch, I think you'll end up replacing it not too long down the road.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> A few things....
> 
> 1. First, the cast iron top is deeper, which gives you more space between the front of the saw and the blade, as well as the back and the blade. Think of it as trying to balance a board on sawhorses 1 foot apart, or 8 feet, which is more stable?
> 2. The cast iron top is wider, allowing you to easily cut wider things.
> ...


I read this about the Craftsman also, and I went to look at it. I might not have seen the same saw but it looked like the one I did see had a granite top. Was that it? Sears did a shoddy job of building their display so I didn't get a sense of its quality like I'd hoped. Everything on it was loose and rickety. I'm trying not to let that influence me but it sure would help if I saw one better built. 

Also, since the Craftsman does have more power, why is it I read more about the Ridgid over it? Availability, or reputation of the name, or something else?


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

No the granite top saw is a step up. I have that saw and its a GREAT saw...... 

This is the one I was referencing. 

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...p-00921833000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

The Sears saw is a bit more.....its on sale now for 579 vs 529 for the ridgid. Also, many aren't aware of the differences. 

The craftsman has

Bigger motor - +.25 hp
Larger Riving knife
Longer Cord
Arbor lock for changing blade
Better stock blade (not by much)

Now, the ridgid does have the lifetime service agreement available, a quasi lifetime warranty - doesn't cover as much as a warranty....but is something


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Ignore the build quality on the floor of both sears saws, Sears uses a untrained salesperson or warehouse person to assemble alot of their floor models, which is why you get lousy build quality on floor models.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Duane - Even though the better jobsite saws are capable of good work, there's really no comparison in performance, stability, operating room, torque, and just about every other physical parameter you can name. The advantages lean heavily in favor of the full size stationary saw over a portable. It's not so different than comparing a laptop PC to a desktop PC....aside from portability, there just aren't any significant advantages. 

I'd suggest reading this.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

Actually, I have read that. Thank you for such a good read. I read all 3 parts with great interest. And I share your views on the advantages of one vs. the other. I just hesitate because I know how nice it would be to have a portable saw, even just to be able to move it outside for use. My shop just has a regular 36" entry door, no garage door. Once a contractor saw is assembled in my shop, it won't leave again. Sometimes I have need of one on the job sites but I could keep my cheap one I have now for that. Any nicer cuts needed for jobs would just have to be planned in advance and done in the shop and then taken to the job for use.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I can't guarantee it, but you may be able to fit the ridgid or craftsman through a 36 inch door sideways.......may have to just remove the fence......and they're both on wheels....


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Home depots website lists it as 30.61 inches deep. You should be able to roll it though your door way.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

I got that review out again on those saws. Wasn't that long ago actually, Wood issue 213, September 2012. They reviewed the Craftsman 21833 as well and said it didn't cut as well as the Ridgid with the stock blade and also scored it lower on the ease of using the blade guard and riving knife. Both saws were scored the same with aftermarket blades.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

ryan50hrl said:


> Home depots website lists it as 30.61 inches deep. You should be able to roll it though your door way.


Oh, I don't think I'd even try it. I've read many times that these are heavy, heavy saws. My shop has a step up into it from the driveway outside. It used to be a garage but the concrete floor was horribly uneven. It was built up to level it out, plus the doorway was walled in and a regular door was installed that has a threshold to go over as well. Might tear up the door, or saw, or my back getting it in and out.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

So, ultimately, do you think I should just forget those reviews and choose one of the contractor saws? One other thing I should mention is my shop has no dust collection at all beyond a 6 gallon shop vac that I just connect to each tool as I use it. I wear a mask as I work, and when weather is nice, I set up a fan to pull dust out the open door, or move to the driveway, which is why I was considering the Bosch also.

My budget for a saw will probably be about $600 or less. I've shopped Craigslist a bunch as well, looking for one of those deals everyone else seems to find. Around here it's just high priced junk. Worn out with parts missing that they still want more than half of the original cost for, or low budget saws being offered for near new cost as well.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Where do you live? 

I wouldn't buy the bosch, but thats just me. I used a jobsite saw for a few months, and theres no comparison!!!

I'll tell ya that the blade that comes with either the craftsman or the ridgid are useful for cutting construction lumber.....plan on a new blade right away. If your just ripping with it, buy a glue line rip freud blade for about 50 bucks and be done with it.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi Duane - the 4512 is a lot more saw than the 4100 or even the 4510. You can't really get a good power comparison by the amp ratings as the 4510 and the 4100 use universal motors and the 4512 uses an induction motor. I went with the 4510 because I have a basement shop and would not have been able to get a 4512 down there in any reasonable degree of assembly.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

I live in the Ashland Kentucky area, in what they call the Tri-state, where KY, OH, and WV all meet. We have a Home Depot in Barboursville West Virginia but they don't have the R4512. We have a Sears where I can get a contractor saw, and also a Lowe's but all they have is the Porter Cable saw that got a bad review in that article. That article really messed me up. It makes me afraid to spend money on a saw since I'm looking for cuts with little to no saw blade marks and they said some are better than others, even with aftermarket blades. One other use I sometimes have for a table saw is resawing wood so as few saw blade marks as possible would be better (since I don't have a planer or jointer either). I'm hoping I can use my table saw AS a jointer.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Hi Duane - the 4512 is a lot more saw than the 4100 or even the 4510. You can't really get a good power comparison by the amp ratings as the 4510 and the 4100 use universal motors and the 4512 uses an induction motor. I went with the 4510 because I have a basement shop and would not have been able to get a 4512 down there in any reasonable degree of assembly.


Since you have the R4510, how do you like it? Does it leave saw blade marks? Is it powerful enough? Easy to use?


----------



## Roundup85 (Mar 18, 2012)

I purchased the Bosch 4100-0(9 with the gravity base a couple years ago. It has operated flawlessly since that time. I enjoy that it can be folded up and stored in about 1/2 the space of a contractor saw. Even can load it in my SUV and take it to the son in laws house to do projects. I am a firm believer in Bosch quality. Also own a Bosch 4812 miter saw with the base. Bosch quality and reliability in all tools.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

Roundup85 said:


> I purchased the Bosch 4100-0(9 with the gravity base a couple years ago. It has operated flawlessly since that time. I enjoy that it can be folded up and stored in about 1/2 the space of a contractor saw. Even can load it in my SUV and take it to the son in laws house to do projects. I am a firm believer in Bosch quality. Also own a Bosch 4812 miter saw with the base. Bosch quality and reliability in all tools.


How often do you use the table saw? I'm looking for one that can stand up for near daily use, or at least 3 times a week for more than just a few cuts, for years on end.


----------



## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> So, ultimately, do you think I should just forget those reviews and choose one of the contractor saws?
> 
> I think you're giving the reviews and comments too much weight in your decision. There's a complaint for every item available on the market that's sold more than a few units. Some are likely even written by competitors! Even if a complaint is 100% accurate, it doesn't mean a particular problem will apply to the saw you get. There's random variability in all of them. Then there are the comments that are strictly a matter of opinion that's subjective, and may not be similar to your view....they're all written by humans, and they're fallible.
> 
> Saw marks are a result of several variables that includes alignment, blade choice, technique, how flat and straight the wood is, etc. A smaller table area is more likely to contribute to saw marks than a larger one because there's less support. A TS can only do a good job edge jointing a board if the board is flat, which is best done with a jointer or a handplane. Without a flat reference face, edge jointing with a router or TS won't necessarily leave an edge that's a uniform 90° to the face.


----------



## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> Since you have the R4510, how do you like it? Does it leave saw blade marks? Is it powerful enough? Easy to use?


Hi Duane - pretty much what scott said. With my Freud fusion blade, none or very light, with my Onsrud 098-50, a few light marks almost all the time. 
As far as power goes, I very seldom do much more than 1 by material so as far as very thick hardwood, I think it may labor some. Again, much of that depends on the blade, I run a thin kerf. The saw itself is only rated for a 6" dado at a max 3/4" wide so that should give some idea of the power. 
IMO, you need to try to prioritize your requirements. For me, mobility was important. I need to fold up the table saw to get to the miter saw and move the miter saw to get the router table out. And, everything gets rearranged to get to the drill press, OSS, bench grinder and Worksharp. Ain't gonna mention the band saw. This all done in a basement shop so moving outside isn't really an option. 
Most of the quality concerns you have mentioned can be handled with adjustments and accessories. Router table can be used as a jointer, albeit a limited width one. As far as saw marks on resawn work, you should be able to limit those to where a ROS will take of it. Resaws and saw marks can be an issue even for high quality aftermarket blades. Most will list a stock thickness specification against their quality claims. :smile:


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

Ok, thank you all for the information, and patience with me on this issue. I think I will be going with a contractor saw, either the R4512 if I can get Home Depot to order one, or the Craftsman 21833. I'd probably rather have just a bit more power so it might be simpler for me just to go to Sears and get that one. It's a lot closer anyway, 20 minutes vs. 45 minutes, and I can leave that day with the saw in the truck. I'll still have to go to Home Depot for a blade since they have the Freud blades that I like. Sears here has a couple of Dewalts and all the rest are Craftsman.


----------



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

You can order the Freud blades from amazon pretty inexpensively with free shipping, FYI.


----------



## Roundup85 (Mar 18, 2012)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> How often do you use the table saw? I'm looking for one that can stand up for near daily use, or at least 3 times a week for more than just a few cuts, for years on end.


I use the saw maybe 2-3 times per month. Sometimes heavy and sometimes only for a small project. If you are looking for a saw to use 3+ times per week, you probably would be more happy with a contractor style. For what I use mine for I hope it lasts for many years,


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Oct 18, 2012)

I decided to get a contractor saw. It will be later this summer. Wife and I talked about it and it's in the plans. She's onboard with me getting my shop up and running with about whatever I will need for some time to come. Got a little drill press tonight and a scroll saw will follow this next month. Maybe a decent router table after that but I'm sort of interested to see about adding one to one wing of the contractor saw table top. I also will plan on a planer as well.


----------

