# Unisaw



## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

I just sold my Bosch 4100-09 table saw last night and was going to go to HD after work and buy the Rigid R45 12. I just saw on craigslist a Delta Unisaw for $500. Are all Unisaws the same except for age? Should i buy the used Delta or the new Rigid. Here are pics.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I'd at least go check out the Uni first. Other than the surface rust she looks solid from the pic. Go check out the motor, arbor, etc, and do you have the ability to use 220V in your work area?


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

I have 220 running an electric heater in the shop, so i don't think that it would be too hard fir an electrician to wire it up, if there is room in the panel. I know NOTHING about electricity and don' want to learn. It scares me.


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## ctwiggs1 (Mar 30, 2011)

I used to say that same thing about electricity... Now I do most of it myself. I'll still hire out a few things but it really is relatively safe when you get a general idea of what you're doing. I mean shoot, someone could say they don't use table saws because they scare them ;-)


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

The unisaw will hold its value. The Ridgid will be worth almost half when you walk out the door. Uni has cast wings, more power, more robust all over. Unless there is something wrong with it I'd say that's your saw but you'd better be quick!


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## <*(((>< (Feb 24, 2010)

I would strongly look at the unisaw and not waste any time. That is a good price. It is on a whole different plane than the ridgid. It is just whether it is worn out or not.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Time is running out. Buy it while you can!


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## mickit (Oct 5, 2009)

jg2259 said:


> I just sold my Bosch 4100-09 table saw last night and was going to go to HD after work and buy the Rigid R45 12. I just saw on craigslist a Delta Unisaw for $500. Are all Unisaws the same except for age? Should i buy the used Delta or the new Rigid. Here are pics.


All Unis are not the same...some are single phase, some are three phase, and a few of the old ones are 115V. This one does not appear to be a 115V, but phase could be an expensive problem...If it's a three phase, you'll need a device to change your household 240 single phase to three phase, or replace the motor. Households are not generally wired for 3ph. If you have 3 phase available, please disregard. Either way, the Uni will hold it's value, much better than the Rigid.


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## MariahHolt (Jul 21, 2010)

The Delta Unisaw is like the Ford F150. It's been around for a long time. So getting replacement parts or aftermarket accessories for it shouldn't be difficult. Larger saws run on 220V or even 3-phase. Getting 220v in your garage shouldn't be too hard but 3-phase is a lot tougher to get. There are also few woodworking magazine articles out there on advice on purchasing older equipment, what to look out for and such.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ACP said:


> I'd at least go check out the Uni first. Other than the surface rust she looks solid from the pic. Go check out the motor, arbor, etc, and do you have the ability to use 220V in your work area?


+1. :yes: That's what I would do.










 







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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Make sure it's not three-phase. If it is figure on another couple hundred for a phase converter (VFD).

That's a relatively newer Unisaw. It looks like the stamped steel base instead of older cast iron and has the newer (but not newest) hand wheels. I'd guess '70's-80's. Mines a '79 and looks very close to that one but has the Rockwell name on it.

The fence on it is a Jet-Lock, which some guys think is okay and others dislike. Sometime you may consider and upgrade. I put a used Unifence on mine.

That's a solid saw and as long as there's nothing major wrong with it, you can't go wrong for the price. It's likely it would be that last table saw you'll ever buy.

The go-to place for Unisaw information would be the www.OWWM.org forum and the www.vintagemachinery.org site.

Bill


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## Jackfre (Dec 23, 2009)

*Unisaw is hard to beat*

My '48 has over the years required a new arbor, motor and at that time I decided to upgrade the electricals. Everything was available. Motor was expensive but made a tremendous difference in saws capability. That is a good looking saw that will last and you will love to work with. $500 for that saw, if in good condition, is a sweet deal...inho!


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## eagle49 (Mar 22, 2011)

You can resell on feebay and make money.


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## MTL (Jan 21, 2012)

I hate you...  I have been checking CL daily for a good deal but none to be found in my area. I am considering the R4512 myself. Seems to me like it is the best value in that price range. Maybe an opportunity like you have come across will happen in my corner as well...


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

MTL maybe you could use Searchtempest.com for a larger area or IRS auctions(not the evil IRS) they have a lot of auctions in the south. I wish some of those auctions were closer to me.


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

The saw in the photo has an original fence which is a POS. It's also a right tilt which I DO NOT LIKE. Is it three phase? 

So $500 plus a new fence plus a new motor? I'd buy a new Griz instead.

Bret


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Thanks much for all your responses. I am going to call this morning and ask about 3 phase. If it isn't 3 phase and looks in good shape ( although I don' think that I have the knowledge to spot a problem), then I will buy it. I really appreciate all your advice.


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Dang. Says phone call ONLY Monday thru Friday. I always procrastinate. I guess I have to wait till Monday morning.


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

If they only want calls from M-F, chances are its a business which could very well mean 3 phase. Maybe not though. I think I would still call today If I was interested. Worst thing is you not get an answer or they tell you to call back on Mon but you never know!


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## MTL (Jan 21, 2012)

mike1950 said:


> MTL maybe you could use Searchtempest.com for a larger area or IRS auctions(not the evil IRS) they have a lot of auctions in the south. I wish some of those auctions were closer to me.


That's a pretty cool site. I have been using crazedlist.org for searching multiple CL sites simultaneously. But since tempest brings in ebay too I might have to start using it now. :thumbsup:


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

MTL, Yes it is cool. You can select saw-tools-200 miles and it shows distance and where they are at. Really speeds up specific search. Good luck with Quest!!!


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## eagle49 (Mar 22, 2011)

If your clothe dryer is not to far from your shop area, you could make a 220v volt exstention cord to run the saw from the dryer outlet. I'm sure you can find a "how to" to wire a 220 line, no big deal. If you got enough skill for woodwork you got enough for that too!


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Okay
I called the guy and its a roofing company and he said they didn't use it every day. Just to cut what wood they needed on the jobsite. I didn't ask if they did hot roofs or frame roofs, but i don't know if that really matters. It is not 3 phase but it is 220v, which shouldn't be a problem. Like I said, iI have 220 running an electric heater. Maybe an electrician could tap into that line, but i worry that 2 pieces of equip on one feed wont't work. 
I am also concerned about the rust on the table and i don't feel that I am experienced enough to spot any other issue, except for if the tilt and riser mechanisms work freely, the motor doesn't scream, and it cuts wood. Like I said, i am fairly new to ww and only owned the Bosch 4100-09 for 1 or 2 yrs. 
I am going to look at it tomorrow with $500 in my pocket.
If there are any pointers that you guys could offer on what to look out for will be greatly appreciated.

Will the rust come off the table?
I really would rather buy new, but finances are tight, and from what I've been reading on this forum, I pretty much can't go wrong with a Delta Unisaw for $500.
Thanks again for your help.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

That Uni is 5x the TS that ridgid thing will every be.

Rust will come off with wd-40 and a razor scraper or a knotted wire wheel.

You would be crazy to not get it, and I really don't do the unisaw sized stuff anymore.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Offer him $400 and complain about the rust a lot!!!:thumbsup:


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

Buy the saw. The rust will clean up. You can always get a retired electrician to help you run a new 220 line if needed. Once you use an old monster hunk of metal, you'll never see look at today's new stuff the same way.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Here you go, JG; a used Unisaw buyer's guide: http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=104325&hilit=unisaw+buyers

I bought a '79 Unisaw with no motor. Until I was done (and I stripped it down to nothing, rebuilt everything and bought a new 3hp motor) I had about $900 in it. It was worth every penny as I now have a like new saw that works great and will last a long time. If you are getting a running 3hp Unisaw for $500, run, don't walk.

Bill


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Thank you guys so much for the help. Thanks for the link Bill. One more question. Are there any special precautions that I should take when hauling it home in the back of my pickup?
It's about a 50 mile trip at most.


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Oh yea, I'm also wondering how heavy this saw is. They said thet have a forklift to load it, but what about unloading it when I get home? 
Can 2 people take it off of the bed? 3?


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

It's top heavy so you have several options. One is to just strap it down very securely. Another would be to put a blanket down on your truck bed and flip it table-top down (making sure there is nothing in the way like a blade guard, etc., of course) and then strapping it securely. 

Another plan would be to take it apart to lighten things. Take the fence rails off. The table extensions then come off easily; once they are off the table top is only four more bolts. The motor can come out by disconnecting the wiring, removing one bolt and then pulling a hinge pin with a spring clip on the end. It's heavy so be careful (the motor, not the spring clip).

I read about a guy who was bringing a table saw home and he just put it in the back of his truck untethered. He went around a curve, the saw slid and flipped over the side of the bed and ended up in a ditch. Ouch.

Oh, about the weight. I think they run around 450 pounds. If you are going to move it intact with two people, a ramp to the truck would be a good idea. Otherwise take it apart (or get more people!). I put mine in the basement and did that with the motor and table top off, using a hand truck for the main cabinet.

Bill


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

2 people can manage it into the back of a truck and then back out.

lean it on the tail gate, toss a moving blanket down and flip it upside down. 

They are not really that heavy, in the big picture.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I just want to add my .02 and good luck on this. Like it's been said, you should be able to move it. Rust cleans up easy as long as it's not pitting the top. Make sure they let you cut some wood with it. I'd check to make sure all the gears moves freely in their full range. Check the fence and see how well it locks down. The belt isn't really a concern as it can be replaced. The arbor runout. There are ways to check without a dial indicator, but in general if the blade doesn't wobble or the cut look too awful rough you should be ok. Check the motor mounts for any cracks, not likely, but I'd look. As it's been said the unisaw if everywhere and so are parts. You shouldn't have any issues if you need a repair and you'll still be far ahead of the Ridgid hybrid. I'd put 425 in one pocket, 25 in a second and the remaining 50 in a third and work your way up. Don't pull out all 500 at once when your negotiating. Once you get her home take pics during the disassembly and label everything so you know where it goes back. Taking it apart and cleaning everything and reassebling it is a great way to get it in top working order and also to learn your new saw inside and out.


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## bikeshooter (Nov 5, 2010)

If you missed that one, there's this one..


http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/2772968286.html


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

This sounds like a feeding frenzy. I still stand by my original comment and would advise passing on this saw. It's obvious from the photos that it needs work and at least a new fence and rails. If it has the original motor then that will go out pretty soon. Motors and fences are very expensive. I would try to find a used Grizzly with a good fence or something similar, but less than ten years old, maybe. Paying $500 for a project saw that may need another $500 in parts does not make sense to me.

IMHO, Bret


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Here's an example if you are patient and do some looking. I tried the Pittsburgh area, and this ad showed up in N.J.
http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/2767154148.html
The noise may not be a bearing. Still a good deal.










 







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## ctwiggs1 (Mar 30, 2011)

WOW, I would go buy that today if that was local.


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## cocheseuga (Dec 15, 2010)

Another vote for the Unisaw, with the caveat to consider expenses involved to use it.

You might look to upgrade from the Ridgid at some point (even though the reviews are very good), I doubt the same would be said for the Unisaw.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

<<_If it has the original motor then that will go out pretty soon._>>

I'd have to strongly disagree. With the exception of occasional bearing replacement, the normal Unisaw motor will probably outlast it's owner. There are 1939 Unisaws that are still going with their original bullet motors. Remember, these are industrial saws, not the type of equipment you're going to find at the local big box store.

As far as the fence: Some people are fine with a Jet Lock. If you don't like it, a Delta T2 is about a $150 upgrade. I upgraded mine to used Unifence for about that much.

<<_The belt isn't really a concern as it can be replaced. _ >> Actually that would be 'belts'. All right-tilt Unisaws use triple belts that should be replaced as a matched set. About $37 for a set from Delta and they are easy to change. But since there are three of them they last a long time. 

Bill


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Okay, I did it, i bought a Unisaw. Probably way more saw than my abiliities can justify, but I plan on becoming a very skilled woodworker. The guy wouldn't budge on the price, and he would have let me walk because he had 13 calls yesterday and I'm lucky none of them could make there until today. I told him I would be there at 9am today, but I think he would have sold it out from under me had someone showed up yesterday.i would have been making the trip for nothing because I had no way of knowing if he had sold it yesterday. I don't think he would have given me a courtesy call.
I was there at 8:30am just to be sure no one beat me there this morning.
I did get to see and hear the saw run but did not have any wood to cut with it. I thought they might have something there to cut, but it is a roofing company that is closing business and the saw was the ONLY thing left in the huge warehouse.
The saw sounded fine. I'm wondering if they sell larger cast iron table extensions for this saw. The top is only 36" wide. The rails are 44"
The saw is sitting on my pickup in my driveway, waiting for my sons to get home to help me unload it. Right now I'm going to hop up on the truck and try to get some of the rust off the top before my wife gets home. She will think that I got ripped off if she sees the rust and I really don' t feel like trying to explain. Oh yea, he did throw in a pretty nice roller stand for no extra cost.
Here are some pics


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Hey congratulations, you got a classic! Now to do some homework and get it all spiffed up and cuttin'! :thumbsup:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Looks good. Did you get a blade guard/splitter with it?












 







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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

nice score, actually to me it looks to be in even better shape that the original pics from CL. Are you planing to keep the fence that's on it, or upgrade to a T-square type?


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## bikeshooter (Nov 5, 2010)

dodgeboy77 said:


> <<_If it has the original motor then that will go out pretty soon._>>
> 
> I'd have to strongly disagree. With the exception of occasional bearing replacement, the normal Unisaw motor will probably outlast it's owner. There are 1939 Unisaws that are still going with their original bullet motors. Remember, these are industrial saws, not the type of equipment you're going to find at the local big box store.
> 
> ...


I'm using a J.D. Wallace Uni that still has the original motor and it's from about 1931. Original capicator too - 'bout the size of a quart of milk. Built like a tank and no doubt it will outlast me.


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

It did come with a blade guard, but no splitter or riving knife. Are there riving knife/ guards that can be bought for this?
Has anyone built a mobile base for this?


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

I would not worry at all about that rust, sand it down and treat it and you will be a happy man!!!

Typed on my iPhone 4S using Wood Forum


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## BassBlaster (Nov 21, 2010)

Thats a nice saw!! I dunno that I would be digging the right tilt part of it but I think you got a good deal none the less!!


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Yes I will be upgrading the fence. Iesmyer maybe?


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Biesmyer I mean


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Congrats on joining the Unisaw user club. Secret password will be sent shortly.
You will really like the saw.
You can now start telling the, Import saw jokes!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Pirate said:


> Congrats on joining the Unisaw user club. Secret password will be sent shortly.
> You will really like the saw.
> You can now start telling the, Import saw jokes!


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: You mean like the one that goes...a Unisaw and a Fwangerdang walked into a bar...












 







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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Ha ha


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

I can't wait


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I thought you said the table top was rusty!? That's not a rusty top, that's called a classic patina! :thumbsup:

Nice grab and have fun with it! That's an '85 saw, by the way. You can check it's number here: http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx

Incidentally, if you got a blade guard, usually the splitter is part of it. Unisaws like yours didn't come with riving knives.

Bill


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## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

Yes, now that you've got the saw, congratulations. My first table saw was a Jr. Unisaw, 8", which I still have and still use as my backup saw. I think it was built in the late 40's and I bought it in the late 60's or early 70's. It had the same fence that yours has, my condolences to you for that. Mine came with the original motor, which did burn out and I replaced it with a 2HP Baldor about 40 years ago. It's not as heavy duty as it's big brother the Unisaw but it's still a great saw. Still very accurate and smooth running. The right tilt is only a problem when ripping bevels when the pinch issue gets a little scarey at times especially with bowed or twisted wood.

Hope you get as much use out of your saw that I still continue to get with mine.

Bret


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Thanks to everyone of you. You helped get a good start on my woodworking dream.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Lol - I think you got a good start on the woodworking dreams of several others here too!! 

For aftermarket splitter/guard take a look at the Shark Guard and the Bolt On Ripping Knife. Not sure which would fit or be better for that saw.


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

I finally got my saw all cleaned up, but haven't been able to find an electrician to run me a 220v line for it. What is wrong with people these days? Nobody wants to WORK. I called 4 electricians ( of course none answered there phones) asking if and when they could do the job. I explained exactly what I needed, and left 2 phone numbers for a callback. Not one response. I know its a small job, but all of there ads stated (residential, no job too small). I know, or hope, a lot of guys are busy, but not ONE returned call? WOW!

Anyway, now that I'm done venting, I ask for your guidance on two more pieces of equipment:

http://wheeling.craigslist.org/tls/2794913829.html

And

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/2819395188.html

I am also searching for a planer and a spindle/disc sander, as well as a dust collector ( which I may buy new ) , and a new TS fence. I really do appreciate the guidance that you guys offer.
Someday, I'll start woodworking.


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

Where are you located, if it is reasonable I will come do it for you, I am not an electrition but it is easy enough to do, or I could explain it over the phone

Typed on my iPhone 4S using Wood Forum


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## troyd1976 (Jul 26, 2011)

Those prices seem awful high to me on that BS and jointer..is that an alum. table on the BS? would think for that kinda money it'd be cast.

the jointer..in my area typically see those in the 150-200 range..normally 300 and up gets you say a nice jet or grizzly with the enclosed base.


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

Oh, now that I am on the computer I can see where you are from, that would be a bit of a drive


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Thanks anyway for the offer Xtreme and thank you for the info Troy. I'm not in too big a hurry for the other tools, but can't wait to start using my Unisaw. I'm going to call the contractor who built my garage and did all the wiring and see if he could do it. With 220v already run to the heater, I'm sure it wouldn't take someone who knew what they were doing more than 2 or 3 hrs to do it. If he won't do it I guess I'll call my wife's nephew who is a plumbing and heating guy, and ask him.


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## goXtreme (Jan 9, 2012)

jg2259 said:


> Thanks anyway for the offer Xtreme and thank you for the info Troy. I'm not in too big a hurry for the other tools, but can't wait to start using my Unisaw. I'm going to call the contractor who built my garage and did all the wiring and see if he could do it. With 220v already run to the heater, I'm sure it wouldn't take someone who knew what they were doing more than 2 or 3 hrs to do it. If he won't do it I guess I'll call my wife's nephew who is a plumbing and heating guy, and ask him.


Give me a call or text me, once it is explained to you it will be easy, it is pretty basic
406-939-1098


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

JG,

Regarding your splitter/blade guard: You have at least part of it. I circled the shaft and bracket to the stock guard and splitter below. My Unisaw didn't even come with that. I bought a new Delta splitter that mounts inboard and am cobbling together an overhead guard.

Here is what goes on that shaft: 












The diagram is from sawcenter.com. The guard mounts to the shaft sticking out the back of your saw. 

Bill


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

jg2259 said:


> Thanks anyway for the offer Xtreme and thank you for the info Troy. I'm not in too big a hurry for the other tools, but can't wait to start using my Unisaw. I'm going to call the contractor who built my garage and did all the wiring and see if he could do it. With 220v already run to the heater, I'm sure it wouldn't take someone who knew what they were doing more than 2 or 3 hrs to do it. If he won't do it I guess I'll call my wife's nephew who is a plumbing and heating guy, and ask him.


 I wouldn't tie into the heater electricity. The circuit with the heater is probably close to maximum with the heater alone. You shouldn't try to go over 80% of what the breaker is rated for. If you forgot to turn off the heater when running the saw you would probably overload the circuit. It would be a lot safer to run a seperate wire for the saw. If you change your mind there are several of us here that could tell you how to wire it yourself.


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## jg2259 (Oct 28, 2011)

Thanks Extreme, but I'm working 88 hrs this week ( 7 days with 4 midnight/ daylight doubles ), and won't have much time to do much else.

Bill, thank you for the info, my blade gaurd/ splitter is complete after checking.

Steve, you are right, it wouldn't be too smart to try to use the 220v line that the heater is on.

My nephew is coming over sometime this week to run me a new 220v line.

I'm working all this overtime so that I can buy a new fence, band saw, spindle/belt sander, jointer, and planer. I don't know how long I'll be able to handle working this much, but if the overtime is there for the taking, I'm going to try to take it all. You never know when you could be completely out of a job these days.

Thanks again to all.


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## amiturewoodbutcher (Mar 23, 2010)

jg2259 said:


> I just sold my Bosch 4100-09 table saw last night and was going to go to HD after work and buy the Rigid R45 12. I just saw on craigslist a Delta Unisaw for $500. Are all Unisaws the same except for age? Should i buy the used Delta or the new Rigid. Here are pics.


You really can't go wrong with the Uni even if you do have to convert to single phase. From the pic it looks solid. The surface rust isn't a biggie.
I've had a Uni for 20 plus years and it has done me great. I wouldn't even look at a Rigid compared to this saw. If you use this saw for 10 years you 'll be able to sell it and make money.. These saws are real estate these days. If you don't want it I take it for that price


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## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

take the unisaw !


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