# Sticky paint - Polyurethane?



## NoSleepTill (Apr 23, 2012)

I'm painting for the first time and I have question. I have a cabinet/artpiece that for various reasons I won't bore you with, I have painted *all* sides of (due to the art part of it).

I had a piece of unfinished birch. I primed it twice and then I painted it with two coats of acrylic latex high gloss black paint.

I have read, though, that this type of paint remains somewhat sticky for a long time if not forever. As this is painted on all sides, it will spend time with one side pressed to the floor (wood floor sometimes, sometimes a rug). I'm therefore concerned that the paint will stick to the floor/rug surface, ruining my piece and the floor.

Will putting a coat or two of water-based (so it doesn't yellow) polyurethane fix this problem? I'd ideally like to have it pressed against the floor and never have to worry about it sticking, so I was hoping the polyurethane would do that. Or, if the poly wouldn't do that, should I just get felt tabs to prevent it from sticking?

Thank you!


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

NoSleepTill said:


> I'm painting for the first time and I have question. I have a cabinet/artpiece that for various reasons I won't bore you with, I have painted *all* sides of (due to the art part of it).
> 
> I had a piece of unfinished birch. I primed it twice and then I painted it with two coats of acrylic latex high gloss black paint.
> 
> ...


The felt tabs or nylon tabs would be the quick solution. Although depending on the thickness if what your stating is true, then rug fibers may still adhere. better off with the nylon type chair buttons that you can hammer in. 

Just wondering why you painted a side that would remain unseen?:blink:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Adding a coating will just keep the previous application from drying. Slip some waxed paper underneath.











 







.


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## WolverineE (Apr 23, 2012)

'High Gloss Acrylic Latex' is a VERY big word. All acrylic latex is not equal and it's specific performance is related to the backbone of the exact resin chemistry and the exact paint formulation. A good self-crosslinking acrylic latex will not remain sticky. 

Now, the same thing applies to the waterborne PU. There are so many different chemistries of 'waterborne polyurethane" and the real thing to look for is the Glass Transition Temperature (Tg) of the polymer in the paint. The lower the number the softer... which can translated to a more sticky feel. Now, if you're still reading this you should be saying, 'What?'. And, that's the point. 

If you want to be sure, then you either need to test an area or... use felt, plastic, wax paper, or something else. I will say that you will greatly increase your odds of success painting if you coat with several very thin coats (on the bottom) and wait between coats for any solvent evaporation (there is solvent in your waterborne paints).


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## NoSleepTill (Apr 23, 2012)

chemmy said:


> The felt tabs or nylon tabs would be the quick solution. Although depending on the thickness if what your stating is true, then rug fibers may still adhere. better off with the nylon type chair buttons that you can hammer in.
> 
> Just wondering why you painted a side that would remain unseen?:blink:


So polyurethane wouldn't work to prevent it from sticking to the floor? (I don't mind taking a non-quick solution).

(...oh, and as it has an art function, as well, it's designed to flip over and be oriented on a different side. hence, the "side unseen" won't always remain unseen :thumbsup: )


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

NoSleepTill said:


> So polyurethane wouldn't work to prevent it from sticking to the floor? (I don't mind taking a non-quick solution).
> 
> (...oh, and as it has an art function, as well, it's designed to flip over and be oriented on a different side. hence, the "side unseen" won't always remain unseen :thumbsup: )


Gotcha!! then the nylon feet are out, lol. poly would only work if the black was thoroughly cured and hard as stated before, peeling may occur if you put it on over a sticky non cured surface, especially if your turning it over at times. Next time [if there is one] use a fast dry coating like Krylon lacquer in gloss black that will dry hard in a few days ok? use pigmented shellac as the base-coat primer or other. 

Best bet now, is to go with something clear like the clear round buttons they use on table tops that cushion the glass from the top surface, from a local glass company, you can put one or more on each corner.


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## Gilgaron (Mar 16, 2012)

I used some spray-can Minwax Polycrylic to make a nonstick surface on top of latex paint. It worked about as well as my amateur technique would allow lookwise, and was perfect functionalitywise. 

I understand there are superior similar products available from General Finishes if you have spraying equipment.


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## NoSleepTill (Apr 23, 2012)

chemmy said:


> poly would only work if the black was thoroughly cured and hard as stated before, peeling may occur if you put it on over a sticky non cured surface, especially if your turning it over at times.


How long does acrylic nylon paint usually take to fully cure and harden? I'm not in a super rush, so if it's a few days/weeks, that's not a problem, and I can poly it after it's cured and hardened, so long as the poly won't stick to the floor/rug and I won't have to worry about leaving it there for extended periods of time.

Thanks for everyone's help so far. Greatly appreciated.


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

NoSleepTill said:


> How long does acrylic nylon paint usually take to fully cure and harden? I'm not in a super rush, so if it's a few days/weeks, that's not a problem, and I can poly it after it's cured and hardened, so long as the poly won't stick to the floor/rug and I won't have to worry about leaving it there for extended periods of time.
> 
> Thanks for everyone's help so far. Greatly appreciated.


Acrylic "nylon" paint i wouldn't have a clue, lol. As far as i know there are no such animals, but if it's normal acrylic paint and it contains a high percentage of vinyl esters which take quite sometime to dry, then i would suggest you wait at least a month or more to test and make sure and move forward from there with the poly application. Be sure to sand the acrylic with 320 for good adhesion between the two ok? They are not able to melt each other and all you have is the sanding scratches available for adhesion ok?.


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## NoSleepTill (Apr 23, 2012)

chemmy said:


> Acrylic "nylon" paint i wouldn't have a clue, lol. As far as i know there are no such animals, but if it's normal acrylic paint and it contains a high percentage of vinyl esters which take quite sometime to dry, then i would suggest you wait at least a month or more to test and make sure and move forward from there with the poly application. Be sure to sand the acrylic with 320 for good adhesion between the two ok? They are not able to melt each other and all you have is the sanding scratches available for adhesion ok?.




Lol...my bad. It's _acrylic latex_ paint 
:no:

So a month is good to wait then?


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

NoSleepTill said:


> Lol...my bad. It's _acrylic latex_ paint
> :no:
> 
> So a month is good to wait then?


Going by my use of such, especially the "lifetime guarantee" ones high vinly content ones that i have used, yep, a month or more. When it wont stick to anything, you'll know ok? paper/hands/fingers/plastic/ etc. put something underneath for a few days, once you think it's dry, and if it don't stick you should be safe:yes:


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## NoSleepTill (Apr 23, 2012)

chemmy said:


> Going by my use of such, especially the "lifetime guarantee" ones high vinly content ones that i have used, yep, a month or more. When it wont stick to anything, you'll know ok? paper/hands/fingers/plastic/ etc. put something underneath for a few days, once you think it's dry, and if it don't stick you should be safe:yes:


Awesome! Thank you. :thumbsup:


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

NoSleepTill said:


> Awesome! Thank you. :thumbsup:


welcome


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