# Rusted combination square.... hard to read.



## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

I have a couple of combination squares I can barely read. They are kind of rusted/corroded. I need to polish them, but I also should be able to rub some kind of black ink or something to fill in the engraved numbers to make them easier to read. Any suggestions?


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Unless they are antiques, buy a new one.


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

nelcatjar said:


> I have a couple of combination squares I can barely read. They are kind of rusted/corroded. I need to polish them, but I also should be able to rub some kind of black ink or something to fill in the engraved numbers to make them easier to read. Any suggestions?


 I would lightly sand them and them take some whiteout and paint the engraved numbers, let it dry and lightly sand off the extra. It will leave your square quite readable.


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

Clean them , then get some machinist die, and let it dry, then scuff them with steel wool.


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

Most of the older US made ones are better than the usual chineese junk you now find. Clean it up, above suggestions all good.


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## bondfan (Jun 9, 2009)

*cleaning..*

I would clean it with steel wool and light oil, then wash with some type of cleaner to remove the oil, then rub it with some paint, wipe off excess, leaving the numbers painted.
Good luck! :thumbsup:


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## Gerry KIERNAN (Apr 20, 2007)

Personally, unless they have some antique value, I would buy a new aluminum square. I have a couple of old steel squares that I never use anymore because of the rust and difficulty to read. My aluminum squares have none of these issues.

Gerry


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

A quick (and temporary) fix is to rub white chalk over the numbers.

G


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've got both old combination squares and new. For the old that gets a bit on the dark side, a light sanding with 320x will brighten up the blade, and leave the markings dark.

I don't use the markings on the blade for measure, as the newer models the lines are fairly wide. The older squares seem to have much finer lines for measure. I mostly use the square to mark or check for square or for 45 deg marking, and for making a parallel line mark, which I check against a tape measure after tightening the blade. I just don't think they are accurate enough by themselves.


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## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

So what kind of store carries "machinist dye" or "layout dye"? I know I can order online, but locally, places don't carry it like: Nothern Tool, Harbor Freight, Lowes, auto parts stores.


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## mdlbldrmatt135 (Dec 6, 2006)

try Fastenal they have locations all over and will order it for you (if they don't stock it)


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## nelcatjar (May 15, 2009)

I'm posting before and after pictures when I get done.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

A can of coca cola will take rust off. Might be less surface damage than steel wool, and then you can just rinse with water, dry and proceed with the rest of your plan. Just an idea.

FrankP


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## skymaster (Oct 30, 2006)

Use scotch brite instead of steel wool. In grocery store they are called nylon scrubbing pads :} WD40 then rub


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

I search out old ones, I prefer them. Unless yours is REALLY rust just hit it with a wire brush on a grinder or drill. It will clean it right up and you should be able to read it no problem. No need for dye or chalk. A good clean semi-shiny surface will cure the problem.


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

nelcatjar said:


> So what kind of store carries "machinist dye" or "layout dye"? I know I can order online, but locally, places don't carry it like: Nothern Tool, Harbor Freight, Lowes, auto parts stores.


In that case It would be my job. Being I am working with an Electrical Contractor and a General Contractor. One day I am running wire, the next I am running base boards.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I have a couple of combo squares and one has a center head. I also have an aluminum square, which is good for framing and such, but I love my combo squares because I use it for measuring depth, duplicating measurements and the center head comes in real handy for finding the center of anything round. 

I’ve never allowed mine to get rusty, but I had cataracts a few years back and it was a little hard to see those markings. I decided to try painting one of the squares with spray paint and cleaning off the excess right away. It took a couple of times but I was able to bring out the markings pretty good. 

I’m now thinking of doing it to an old Craftsman framing square that I bought in 1970 when I worked as a framer. It was always dark with orange or maybe yellow markings, its hard to tell any more because its faded and my memory’s not so good. It will be a lot harder because the rafter table is pretty fine and has a few nicks. Plus it’s not like doing the edge of a rule where you wipe across the lines in one direction. The markings are in multiple directions. 

I have an old high quality Starrett combo square with a center head and reversing protractor. It was left over from when I thought I wanted to be a Machinist. When I want something precise I use my Starrett. They are worth more than $175 now.:yes:


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

As I recall, most combination squares are not that accurate...but still handy. Any sanding or wire brushing under power might result in even less accuracy...I like the Coke-a cola idea. Rick


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

pianoman said:


> As I recall, most combination squares are not that accurate...but still handy.
> Rick


A fixed square is always going to the most accurate, but it depends on who’s making it. A $5 stamped aluminum triangle is not going to compare to a precision machined square, but when working with wood that can swell, twist and bend, then precision doesn’t matter much. Hey there’s always wood putty. :laughing:


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

pianoman said:


> As I recall, most combination squares are not that accurate...but still handy. Any sanding or wire brushing under power might result in even less accuracy...


How? Please explain.


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## scribbles (Mar 2, 2009)

you can gouge the metal, and cause more sever inaccuracies, or heat the metal and warp it.


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

OK, I see where you coming from. 

I have wire brushed 1,000 of lbs of steel and cast iron restoring old machines and tools. Your not going to damage a ruler with a wire wheel unless you do something really dumb. It will actually impart a bit of a polished finish. The two I use now were wire brushed because I couldn't read them when I got them.

Sanding, if you used a belt sander or something to aggressive I could see over heating it or sanding it to the point there were not lines left. But a light sanding isn't going to hurt it. I have cleaned up old ones with a ROS even though it is not my first choice.

This isn't arguing, but I don't see how you are going to change the accuracy. Assuming the marks/groves are recessed in the metal your not going to move them by cleaning it with a wire brush (my first choice) or a light sanding. It would take something pretty aggressive to heat it enough to make it move.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Kudzu said:


> OK, I see where you coming from.
> 
> I have wire brushed 1,000 of lbs of steel and cast iron restoring old machines and tools. Your not going to damage a ruler with a wire wheel unless you do something really dumb. It will actually impart a bit of a polished finish. The two I use now were wire brushed because I couldn't read them when I got them.
> 
> ...


I really must be out of touch. Or is it just that this modern generation lives by abreviations without understanding that all of us do not know what they mean.

It seems that I have to ask about an abreviation at least 2 or 3 times a week.

This time it is What is a "ROS?"

George


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## pianoman (Jan 16, 2008)

A combination square has a curf in the rule and a keeper as a slide mechanizum...sorry about the spelling...any sanding or power wire brushing may roll off the edges hence, rendering it even more inaccurate. This is only my opinion. Still, old tools are like blue jeans...hard to get rid of...Rick


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

GeorgeC said:


> This time it is What is a "ROS?"
> 
> George


Random Orbital Sander


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## Kudzu (Dec 23, 2008)

pianoman said:


> A combination square has a curf in the rule and a keeper as a slide mechanizum...sorry about the spelling...any sanding or power wire brushing may roll off the edges hence, rendering it even more inaccurate. This is only my opinion.


I don't follow you there. I know what you talking about but I don't see how that would make the marks on the ruler inaccurate. What am I missing?


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I agree with Kudzu, the curf and the keeper have nothing to do the accuracy. They are just a way to hold the rule tight up against the square surface. 
The accuracy of the square depends on the edge of the rule being straight and the inside surface of square head being free of debris. The only way the square is going to change is if you grind or over sand the edge so that it isn't straight anymore. An unless maybe the rule was cold stamped out of a press without any machining, which isn’t very accurate in the first place, rounding of the edge isn’t going to change the square.
The accuracy of the markings depends on the accuracy of the manufacturing techniques. They are not going to move or change unless you grind the ends.
We are talking about cleaning the rust off, not reshaping the square.
I also wanted to add that if you are the type to overheat the rule in a grinder to remove rust, then maybe you shouldn’t touch power tools.


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