# Mounting Air Compressor to floor



## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I have a 3 HP 60 gal Ingersoll Rand air compressor I need to mount to a concrete floor. I would like it to an inch or two above the floor itself. I am thinking about putting the anchors in the floor and then putting a treated 2" piece of wood between the compressor base and floor. I can't see this to be a problem but wanted to run it by this forum before proceeding. I also have a couple of pieces of trex decking I could use as this may be better for long term use. Thanks for any help in advance.
Tom

PS the reason I want it elevated is the compressor will be in a natural basement. I have on a couple of occasions got a 1/4" of water on the floor. It can't get much higher as it will run out a garage door.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

TomC said:


> I have a 3 HP 60 gal Ingersoll Rand air compressor I need to mount to a concrete floor. I would like it to an inch or two above the floor itself. I am thinking about putting the anchors in the floor and then putting a treated 2" piece of wood between the compressor base and floor. I can't see this to be a problem but wanted to run it by this forum before proceeding. I also have a couple of pieces of trex decking I could use as this may be better for long term use. Thanks for any help in advance.
> Tom
> 
> PS the reason I want it elevated is the compressor will be in a natural basement. I have on a couple of occasions got a 1/4" of water on the floor. It can't get much higher as it will run out a garage door.


I have a 80 gal Ingersoll Rand compressor bolted to a floor outdoors under an awning. I don't think it's really necessary to put the treated wood under it. Anyway treated wood is corrosive and would corrode the legs of the compressor much worse than sitting it directly on the concrete. The trex would work better if you really need something under it.


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> I have a 80 gal Ingersoll Rand compressor bolted to a floor outdoors under an awning. I don't think it's really necessary to put the treated wood under it. Anyway treated wood is corrosive and would corrode the legs of the compressor much worse than sitting it directly on the concrete. The trex would work better if you really need something under it.


Thanks Steve. As I was writing the post I got to thinking about the corrosive effect of treated wood, that's why I brought up trex. I am trying to protect the compressor tank feet from potential exposure to standing water. I haven't had any issues with water getting in there in a year or so. I also run a dehumidifier in the basement as I store wood down there.
Tom


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I've tried it, and I wouldn't bolt to the floor. All the compressors I've had I just left on their shipping skids, which were usually 2x4's. It's are easier to move if you have to. They transfer vibration to the floor and are more noisy IMO. 

I don't know what yours came with for a tank drain, maybe just a small petcock at the bottom. Before you get too installed, I would recommend that you run some piping out from the tank drain and put a ball valve on the end where you can reach it easily. 








 








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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

In my basement, with the sloping floor, I made level cement pedestals to raise my furnace and water heater out of the semi-annual flood ----- first surface ground the concrete (dusty mess), then glued 1/2 to 1" pine strips to the floor for the forms. Used a power hand plane to level them in place. Then mixed up topping cement with the acryllic bonding/water-repelling plasticizer stuff instead of water. Ton of work, but works great. Never see any capillary action making 'em wet, even when the floor all around is damp, and in places the river flows to the floor drain.

After a bunch of other stuff happens, I plan to do something similar over a large area that will become home to my cabinet saw, which is now in storage.

For feet under part of my drier platform I bolted & glued old hockey pucks to the bottom of some painted 4x4 pine. 

Hope something there is useful


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

I bought a 5hp, 60 gallon Quincy when I added on to my shop. I put a 2' x 2' dense rubber pad under it and it's fine. Doesn't go anywhere and the rubber soaks up any vibration. I have a manifold bolted to the wall next to it. I bought a 3' stainless steel flexible hose with fittings to hook the compressor to the manifold. Got it from TP Tools.
Mike Hawkins


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I am curious. Why do you "need" to mount the compressor to the floor?

George


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

GeorgeC said:


> I am curious. Why do you "need" to mount the compressor to the floor? George


The manufacturer says it need to be bolted to the floor.
Tom


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

firehawkmph said:


> I bought a 5hp, 60 gallon Quincy when I added on to my shop. I put a 2' x 2' dense rubber pad under it and it's fine. Doesn't go anywhere and the rubber soaks up any vibration. I have a manifold bolted to the wall next to it. I bought a 3' stainless steel flexible hose with fittings to hook the compressor to the manifold. Got it from TP Tools. Mike Hawkins


Mike, did you also bolt it to the floor or just set it on the mat?where did you get the the 2" mat?
Thanks, tom


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## Improv (Aug 13, 2008)

Use hockey pucks. Just drill out the center and mount the bolt through it.

Regards,
Steve


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## dbhost (Jan 28, 2008)

Somebody already mentioned it, but drilled hockey pucks...


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I have mine bolted to the floor because I have it attached to rigid plumbing. I would also be more inclined to bolt one to the floor if it was a verticle compressor located in a place where there was potential of bumping it with a car or fork lift.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

A lot of guys use hockey pucks.

I use anti-vibration pads, mine isn't bolted down as it isn't in it's final place, it doesn't move at all.

http://www.pexsupply.com/DiversiTec...-4-x-4-x-7-8?gclid=CNqioduXyb0CFa1j7AodQgUAyQ


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*top heavy compressors*

Mine is a 5 HP 80 gal vertical, and I used adjustable floor levelers which have a rubber cushion on on the bottoms. It is not bolted to the concrete ,but in a location where tipping is virtually impossible.

These floor mats also come in 2' X 2' squares from tractor supply:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/rubber-horse-stall-mat-4-ft-x-6-ft

Hockey pucks sound like a great idea also. There are also commercial vibration isolation mounts for industrial machines. The oil-less compressors are very prone to house shaking vibrations besides being as noisy as a small jack hammer, scale model airplane, chainsaws or others.... :thumbdown:

washing machine vibration pads here:
Amazon.com: Washing Machine KE Shake Away Plus Pads Vibration Pads Super Duty Version: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Isolate It: Sorbothane Vibration Isolation Washer 70 Duro (0.5" ID - 1.5" OD - 0.5" Thick) - 4 Pack: Home Improvement


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I remember one upright compressor the owner wished it had been firmly bolted to the floor. The tank rusted out and it took off like a rocket through the roof and landed in a field next to the shop.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Steve Neul said:


> I remember one upright compressor the owner wished it had been firmly bolted to the floor. The tank rusted out and it took off like a rocket through the roof and landed in a field next to the shop.



Just what did he have in that tank. Was he using it as a still?

George


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> I remember one upright compressor the owner wished it had been firmly bolted to the floor. The tank rusted out and it took off like a rocket through the roof and landed in a field next to the shop.


Wow...what a story. One of your best so far.:laughing:








 








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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> I remember one upright compressor the owner wished it had been firmly bolted to the floor. The tank rusted out and it took off like a rocket through the roof and landed in a field next to the shop.





GeorgeC said:


> Just what did he have in that tank. Was he using it as a still?
> 
> George


Happens more often than people realize, one of the hazards of buying a used compressor, or not taking care of a tank properly. 

A good reason to have it out of the main work area.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> I remember one upright compressor the owner wished it had been firmly bolted to the floor. The tank rusted out and it took off like a rocket through the roof and landed in a field next to the shop.


Interesting.....so why doesn't it take off when you open the drain cock at the bottom? Standard compressors don't build enough pressure to create this kind of thrust......I think there's more to this story if there's a story.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ryan50hrl said:


> Interesting.....so why doesn't it take off when you open the drain cock at the bottom? Standard compressors don't build enough pressure to create this kind of thrust......I think there's more to this story if there's a story.


+1. :yes: Maybe less to the story.
















 








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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

The drain valve is similar to a pinhole leak. But the the OSHA website on pressure tanks talks about another kind of failure, saying "Rupture failures can be much more catastrophic and can cause considerable damage to life and property"


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

SteveEl said:


> The drain valve is similar to a pinhole leak. But the the OSHA website on pressure tanks talks about another kind of failure, saying "Rupture failures can be much more catastrophic and can cause considerable damage to life and property"


Oh...I agree. But, an assembly that weighs over 200 LBS, blasting off and going through the roof is a real stretch. NASA should conduct a study.:yes:








 








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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Yeah.... reminds me of the kids campfire "telephone game", It's not hard to imagine shrapnel punching a hole in the somewhat crumbling 3/4" T&G that makes up the "roof" of my basement shop.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> Just what did he have in that tank. Was he using it as a still?
> 
> George


I have no idea what pressure the guy was using. It was in a diesel truck garage. At the time I was working as a newspaper photographer about 1972 in a small town and was sent there to take pictures. The building was just a metal frame building with a corrugated tin roof. The compressor actually landed just outside the building. My guess is the compressor didn't have a pop-off valve and the pressure switch stuck so it didn't stop running until it was yanked from the power source.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> Interesting.....so why doesn't it take off when you open the drain cock at the bottom? Standard compressors don't build enough pressure to create this kind of thrust......I think there's more to this story if there's a story.


I imagine if you had about a 8" or 10" dia drain cock that you could suddenly open it would take off. The compressor I told the story about was pretty old and for one reason or another the tank burst.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Oh...I agree. But, an assembly that weighs over 200 LBS, blasting off and going through the roof is a real stretch. NASA should conduct a study.:yes:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If it didn't happen, the guy went to a lot of trouble to fake it. I sure don't think he would have gotten much insurance money for a couple of pieces of tin for his roof.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

shoot summ said:


> Happens more often than people realize, one of the hazards of buying a used compressor, or not taking care of a tank properly.
> 
> A good reason to have it out of the main work area.


I have never heard of anything like this happening and would have to have solid evidence that all that was happening was a sudden rupture in a tank with nothing but air in it. Unless maybe there were a couple of thousand pounds of presssure.

Geprge


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Oh...I agree. But, an assembly that weighs over 200 LBS, blasting off and going through the roof is a real stretch. NASA should conduct a study.:yes:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very true.

George


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Thanks everyone, you gave me some good ideas. I may also consider some other types of hold downs for the tank. Maybe some large cables like they use on suspension bridges! Just kidding ha ha ha.
Tom


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> At the time I was working as a newspaper photographer about 1972 in a small town and was sent there to take pictures.


So Steve, are you really Clark Kent?








 








.;


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> So Steve, are you really Clark Kent?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No, I gave up the newspaper business when I got out of school and took up woodworking. I think I got a whole $5.00 for taking a picture of the building and the compressor if they printed both which I can't remember.


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

TomC said:


> Mike, did you also bolt it to the floor or just set it on the mat?where did you get the the 2" mat?
> Thanks, tom


Tom, 
didn't bolt it to the floor. The mat is 1/2" thick, 24" x 24" square. Mike Hawkins


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

GeorgeC said:


> I have never heard of anything like this happening and would have to have solid evidence that all that was happening was a sudden rupture in a tank with nothing but air in it. Unless maybe there were a couple of thousand pounds of presssure.
> 
> Geprge


So if you never heard of something it didn't ever happen?

There are a number of documented cases on garage journal of compressor tasks exploding. It's typically older tanks that haven't been maintained properly. I'm not saying one going through the roof is possible, but they do explode, and 150lbs of air in an exploding vessel can do a helluva lot of damage.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I set my 5 HP, I/R compressor on these (or something similar): http://www.tptools.com/Rubber-Mounting-Blocks,712.html?b=s*compressor+pads

It's not bolted down. That was about 25 years ago and it still seems to be in the same place in the garage.

What C-man said about piping the drain out to a valve is a good idea. I reach under mine and drain it into a shallow pan and it's not much fun.

Bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

dodgeboy77 said:


> What C-man said about piping the drain out to a valve is a good idea. I reach under mine and drain it into a shallow pan and it's not much fun.
> 
> Bill


Here is a simple way for a manual drain. This isn't my setup, but very similar. A clear vinyl tubing can drain to the outside.








 








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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

ryan50hrl said:


> Interesting.....so why doesn't it take off when you open the drain cock at the bottom? Standard compressors don't build enough pressure to create this kind of thrust......I think there's more to this story if there's a story.


i think it has to do with the size of the hole that the pressure is escaping through. a small throttled orifice can be predictable, where as a larger hole that will likely peel larger (rust) as the pressure escapes could have a violent potential. 

i am not qualifying the roof/field story however. 

mine has tapcons in the feet to keep it from walking across the floor. should have a piece of flex hose between the comp and hard plumbing to absorbmovement/vibration and shock.


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## shoot summ (Feb 21, 2014)

https://www.google.com/search?q=air...WD8ql8QGh5YDABw&ved=0CCoQsAQ&biw=1680&bih=933

Back in my 2 stroke days, we used water to form custom pipes(hydroforming), there was a reason air wasn't used, and it was directly related to the explosive potential of compressed air.

Not mine, but an example of hydroforming:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppXRMTeR2NQ


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I installed 2" of trex under each foot and don't have a vibration problem. I am going to install the Rapidair system (should arrive today). I am having a hose made to go between the compressor and Rapidair piping to provide some flexibility in the system. I will post pictures in this thread when complete.
Tom


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Tim said:<<_I think it has to do with the size of the hole that the pressure is escaping through. a small throttled orifice can be predictable, where as a larger hole that will likely peel larger (rust) as the pressure escapes could have a violent potential._>>

I picked up a used 2 HP Craftsman compressor a while back to supplement my bigger unit for sandblasting. I was concerned about tank integrity so I did some research. From what I read, usually when a tank goes bad from rust it develops pin holes that leak like a tire with a nail hole leaks. Note that I said 'usually'. 

We had a guy around here blow up his home compressor years ago and it took out the wall of his garage. It turned out that he'd fooled with the pressure controls. _That _is something to avoid. I've seen other incidents in the news of similar accidents. Make sure your pressure relief valve works!

Bill


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

cabinetman said:


> I've tried it, and I wouldn't bolt to the floor. All the compressors I've had I just left on their shipping skids, which were usually 2x4's. It's are easier to move if you have to. They transfer vibration to the floor and are more noisy IMO.
> 
> I don't know what yours came with for a tank drain, maybe just a small petcock at the bottom. Before you get too installed, I would recommend that you run some piping out from the tank drain and put a ball valve on the end where you can reach it easily.



That's what I did. Never took it off the pallet.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

shoot summ said:


> So if you never heard of something it didn't ever happen?
> 
> There are a number of documented cases on garage journal of compressor tasks exploding. It's typically older tanks that haven't been maintained properly. I'm not saying one going through the roof is possible, but they do explode, and 150lbs of air in an exploding vessel can do a helluva lot of damage.


Here's one. https://www.google.com/search?q=Exp...Fface%2Fstateface%2Fca%2F05ca010.html;300;223


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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

Here are pictures of my mounted compressor. I have also included pictures of my Rapidair system installation. I did not buy the clips for attaching the Rapidair piping to the walls and ceiling. I bought some 1/2 conduit and clips. I cut the conduit and ran the the air piping thru the conduit and used 1/2" conduit clips. Rapidair said the piping will expand and contract with temperature changes. I have about 3/32" clearance between the conduit and air piping.









Compressor









Regulator and Rapidair manifold









Piping in basement









Piping coming thru floor protected with conduit









Piping running across ceiling









Piping coming down wall with Rapidair outlet


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

So, how do you like that air system? How was it to install? Did they provide drains where lines went uphill? BTW...nice compressor. Is it a 3HP 60 gal IR?








 








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## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> So, how do you like that air system? How was it to install? Did they provide drains where lines went uphill? BTW...nice compressor. Is it a 3HP 60 gal IR? .


The system was very easy to install. You have to assemble the manifold and air outlet. About 4 thread fitting per component. The air lets have drains on them. The piping is very easy to install. Cut the piping to length and push into fittings. It was a warm day when I installed the piping. I left it out in the sun for a couple hours and it was easy to work with. I did not have any leaks at any of the fitting. Yes it is a 3HP IR compressor.
Tom


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