# Difference between BLO and Danish oil?



## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

What is the difference between Boiled Lindseed and Danish oil?

I want to protect the new workbench I just made, and Danish oil is what Paul Sellers recommends, but I already have some Boiled Linseed oil on the shelf.

So ... would it be a bad idea to use the BLO on my bench instead of Danish oil?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Danish oil contains varnish. ie, oil + film finish.

EDIT:
As for the bench, the Danish oil will better protect it from moisture but it's all in what you want.


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## Tommie Hockett (Aug 26, 2012)

from what I've read they are purty much the same except danish oil is super filtered and super boiled but they are both linseed oil


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The Danish oil finish is a mixture of linseed oil, tung oil and varnish resins which makes it more of a finish than linseed oil alone.


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## bond3737 (Nov 13, 2009)

It depends on what you mean by "protect" Danish oil is an oil varnish blend and BLO is just an oil and neither will go very far to protect the wood from the elements like water, scratches etc as they are not meant to build a film. Both of these are more for color than for protection. If you want protection your best bet is a polyurethane finish as it is the most durable of the film building finishes to protect against water and scratches unless you go with a super thick "bar top" two part finish like liquid glass


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

You are going to want to be able to flatten the top of your bench over the years. A heavier film finish like poly isn't a good idea. The advantage of oil finishes if that they can be reapplied often to cover scratches and such.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Sounds like Danish oil is for me, thanks


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

The difference is that Linseed oil is extracted from flax seeds and Danish oil is squeezed out of danes.

Just kidding, as already been said Danish oil contains varnish and is more of a film finish. A film finish on a workbench may not be ideal as all the scratches and dings will leave marks in the finish. To repair it you have to strip off the finish and redo it.

An oil finsh on the other hand you can reapply when it gets worn. An old rule for maintaining the finish on a workbench is to apply oil until it doesn't soak in any more, wipe off the excess and repeat that every day for a week. Then you oil it once a week for a month, then once a month for a year and finally oil it once a year for your lifetime. 
So my advice is: If your workbench is a piece of furniture - use a film finish but if it is a *work* bench - use an oil finish.


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## bond3737 (Nov 13, 2009)

sorry I misread the OP I thought you said it was a bench not a work bench my mistake. +1 to what long knife said


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

that is the problem ... i don't really know exactly what i want.

the other day, i had my sharpening stuff on the bench, and sharpened a chisel. the grey dust from the sharpening got on the bench, and now it won't come off. it is that kind of thing i want to protect it from.

i realize it will get dinged up over time with use, and expect it to look well used, but functional and sturdy.

i also would like be able to clean it up from time to time with a plane and re-do the finish.

so ... BLO then? or danish?

what would YOU all cover it with?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Chris Curl said:


> that is the problem ... i don't really know exactly what i want.
> 
> the other day, i had my sharpening stuff on the bench, and sharpened a chisel. the grey dust from the sharpening got on the bench, and now it won't come off. it is that kind of thing i want to protect it from.
> 
> ...



What did you use for your bench top. I think I remember you said something about 2x3's and 2x4's. Did you use construction grade dimensional lumber? 

I would likely just use BLO. For a bench top it's easy maintenance. If you want to preserve the top, just cap it with a piece of tempered Masonite. When that gets all beat to heck, just replace the Masonite.











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.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

The top is made from 6 pieces of 2x4 douglas fir, in 3 sections; each being 2 pieces edge glued. The 2 outer sections are glued to the aprons. The total 48" long and 24" wide.

I was thinking about maybe doing another layer on top of that, but I will probably wait until I have more space so that I can make a larger top.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

IMO linseed oil makes a great finish for a working surface. I used it on my mdf drill press table and usually use it on any mdf jigs. It's a hardening oil, that is, it soaks in and hardens as it cures as well as adding water resistance.


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

My top is MDF and I have used the left overs of poly urethane and acrylic over the years, Imhave flattened it three times. When the scratches are too bad I scape the glue and what not off sand to make sure I have adhesion and apply what's laying around. Looks poor but has help up great. The film finish allows spilled finish and glue to wipe up. 

While that's what I have done I am not sure it makes any difference. Use what you like it will need touched up and you can change it if you like.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

A film finish (lacquer, shellac, varnish, poly varnish) is not the way to finish a workbench top. A workbench is going to get dinged and film finishes will crack or craze or be otherwise damaged. Once a film finish is penetrated, it looses its effectiveness and adjacent areas begin to fail. No treatment is going to make a soft wood bench top harder. I much favor an "in the wood finish". Here are two that lots of folks find effective.

First, is an boiled linseed oil and wax finish. Sand the surface to 180 grit. Mix paraffin or bees wax into heated boiled linseed oil. USE A DOUBLE BOILER TO HEAT THE OIL. The ratio is not critical but about 5-6 parts of boiled linseed oil in a double boiler with one part paraffin or beeswax shaved in. Take it off the stove. Thin this mixture about 50/50 with mineral spirits to make a heavy cream like liquid. Apply this mixture to the benchtop liberally and allow to set overnight. Do it again the next day and again the following day if the top continues to absorb it. After a final overnight, lightly scrape off any excess wax and buff. This finish will minimize the absorbsion of any water and you can use a damp rag to wipe up any glue excess. Dried glue will pop right off the surface. Renewal or repair is easy. Just use a scraper to remove and hardened stuff, wipe down with mineral spirits using a 3/0 steel wool pad (a non-woven green or gray abrasive pad is better), wipe off the gunk and apply another coat of boiled linseed oil/wax mixture.

My personal preference is for an oil/varnish mixture treatment. Either use Minwax Tung Oil Finish, Minwax Antique oil or a homebrew of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, your favorite varnish or poly varnish and mineral spirits. Sand the benchtop up to 180 grit. Apply the mixture heavily and keep it wet for 15-30 minutes. Wipe off any excess completely. Let it dry overnight and the next day, apply another coat using a gray non-woven abrasive pad. Let it set and then wipe off any excess. Let this dry 48-72 hours. To prevent glue from sticking apply a coat of furniture paste wax and you're done. This treatment is somewhat more protective than the wax and mineral oil as the varnish component adds some protection from not only water both some other chemicals also. The waxing makes the surface a little more impervious to water so you can wipe up any liquid adhesive. It also allows hardened adhesive to be scraped off. Repair and renewal is easy. Just go through the same scraping, wiping down with mineral spirits and reapplication of the BLO/varnish/mineral spirits mixture and an application of paste wax.

Both of the above treatments are quite protective but are easy to maintain and renew. They do not fail when the surface takes a ding.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

i bought some danish oil, but i think i might return it and get some varnish instead. 

i will mix that with the BLO i have had for years and some mineral spirits to make my own oil/varnish mixture.

can this be done when it is cold out? my garage is not heated, and it has been in the 30s lately.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Yes that will work in cold weather however it might take 2-3 days to dry at that temperature, especially if it is damp too.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

If you add a Japan Drier it will greatly decrease the drying time, particularly in cold weather.

I use it for all oil finishes to speed things up.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Check out Christopher Schwartz' article "Rules for Workbenches." He's got some good thoughts on the finish at "Rule #9" which have been echoed here.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/rules_for_workbenches


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

tonight i went to big orange and returned the danish oil to get varnish and mineral spirits instead. i wanted to make my own mix.

and then ... dang it ... big orange doesn't carry varnish. they have shellac though and poly and the other finishing stains.

so i bought the danish oil again. it is the Watco brand. i will apply the first coat tonight.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

:laughing:

I expect pictures.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

now i am reading about varnish ... apparently, varnish it 2 parts of BLO, 1 part lacquer and 1 part turpentine (or paint thinner or mileral spirits).

is this true?

so is danish oil just more BLO and turp, and less lacquer?

and are mineral spirits and paint thinner equivalent?


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

Not sure varnish means anything specific. It is a word to represent a resin (a solid at room temperature) mixed with a drying oil and a thinner to allow fluid application. When the thinner evaporates and the oil is dry a thin layer of the resin and oil is left behind providing a harder more durable finish than oil alone. Since the resins are undefined by the manufacturer two varnishes can be completely different.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

well, i think i'm finally coming to the realization that varnish is really just a generic term that simply means something that results in a hard clear finish when it dries, and it is typically made by cooking some sort of a resin into an oil and then reducing and straining. it can be lacquer, polyurethane, ...

straight varnish is usually thick and dries slowly, so it is often mixed with a thinner (usually turpentine of mineral spirits) to make it easier to apply and dry more quickly. if mixed with alot of thinner, it can be sprayed on and dries very quickly.

and danish oil is another generic term for a mix of a varnish and a finishing oil and a thinner.

so danish oil can have different types of 3 different things in it, in whatever different proportions the maker feels like using. great.

do i understand this stuff yet?

to those of you who make your own danish oil, which type of varnish do you use?


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

I think Danish oil and Teak oil have less resin than "varnish". This the name. I assume at one time there were particular resins that were used in each product that further differentiates them. Maybe they used a particular oil or solvent. These days it is probably fair to say that the "oil" varnishes are thin enough to wipe and brush and the "varnishes" will be thicker and more difficult to apply with out thinning or spraying. 

Someone with more direct knowledge is bound to respond with a better answer but for now I think you have as good of an understanding as most of us do.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Chris, if you really want to understand finishing this is the book you want. It's my go-to reference.

Amazon.com: Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish (American Woodworker) (9781565235489): Bob Flexner: Books


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## Bill White 2 (Jun 23, 2012)

Not beatin' up on Dane Land (whatever that might be), but a simple shellac and waxed finish will give ya a very nice/renewable finish.
Why over complicate a bench finish? :blink:
Bill


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

bill, shellac and wax would make for slick and shiny surface, wouldn't it?

i don't want slick and shiny for my workbench, but i want it not to stain or ged discolored over time.

and i figured this is a great time to learn about this stuff


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> they have shellac though and poly

Oil based poly is varnish. Poly's full name is Polyurethane Varnish. Poly varnish will work just fine. Just be sure it's an oil based product. It won't work with waterborne "poly".


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

HowardAcheson said:


> >>>> they have shellac though and poly
> 
> Oil based poly is varnish. Poly's full name is Polyurethane Varnish. Poly varnish will work just fine. Just be sure it's an oil based product. It won't work with waterborne "poly".


To add to that, if you get crazy and decide to add shellac for some reason it HAS to be "dewaxed"... Completely / 100% dewaxed / no wax. Otherwise it will haze / crackle.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

firemedic said:


> :laughing:
> 
> I expect pictures.


here they are ...

this is pretty much right after applying it, so it is more shiny here than after it dried.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Looks great, Chris!


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Did you end up using the Watco Danish oil?


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Shop Dad said:


> Did you end up using the Watco Danish oil?


Yeah, sorry ... I forgot to mention what I ended up doing.

Yes, this is the Watco natural Danish oil. I used almost a pint on two coats. The bench is 48" long and 24" wide, with 9 1/2" skirts.

I just couldn't pull the trigger on mixing my own yet. But I think that by the time the next one comes up, I'll be ready to try mixing my own. I haven't done the legs yet, maybe I'll mix something up for them.

The leg vise in the last pic is a piece of 2x6 pine that I covered with satin Pecan satin/poly from Minwax.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Honestly I think that's the best choice you could have made. You were able to get experience with a "known quantity" and focus on applying and working with the finish. Now that you have a benchmark you will be more informed when you make your own. (Like getting a benchmark sharp blade to know what sharp really is. :thumbsup

It looks great. What do you think of the finish now as a working surface?


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Shop Dad said:


> Honestly I think that's the best choice you could have made. You were able to get experience with a "known quantity" and focus on applying and working with the finish. Now that you have a benchmark you will be more informed when you make your own. (Like getting a benchmark sharp blade to know what sharp really is. :thumbsup


+1 Looking good. I think you'll be really happy with your choice.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

heh, i'm too busy doing everything BUT woodworking to really know, but i think it is going to be good shuld i ever get around to actually using it for its intended purpose


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