# Box joint jigs in a PVC pipe



## Air Force 1 (Nov 1, 2007)

I was having coffee this morning and had a brain storm.:blink: You see all them jigs in your shop, what if you could put three of them in a 3/4" PVC pipe about 24" long? And mount them on the side of your router table.
Go down to the hardwear store and buy three square rods, 1/2" - 3/8" and 1/4" (or the size box joints you need), cut them the leignth of your router table (you will have to figure the size) and drill a hole, say an inch from the end,and drill matching holes in the router table top,at the bottom you will need a hole for each size, it will povot at the top hole. Before you drill the bottom holes,mount each size and adjust for that size from your router bit. Then put machine screws with wing nuts to hold them in place.What do you think? :thumbsup: :thumbdown: 
Joe


----------



## aclose (Nov 11, 2007)

can you draw a picture? 
i'm hoping to make a box joint jig as soon as it's warm enough to work in my garage, err, shop. :smile: i'd be willing to give it a try, but i don't know about drilling into my router table. it's a cast iron table top. :smile: but maybe i could mount it on a piece of MDF...


----------



## garyo1954 (Dec 22, 2007)

Sounds like a good idea as long as you use some back support behind the workpiece it should work. And maybe just clamp the bars to the table. I'll have to try it.


----------



## Air Force 1 (Nov 1, 2007)

You could just clamp them in place but you would have to reset them each time you went to use them. With the holes your setting would be set for you each time automaticlly. I'll draw up a sketch and post it later. Joe


----------



## Air Force 1 (Nov 1, 2007)

Here is that drawing, I think this will help. You will need to do this for each size. You keep the same pivot point.


----------



## Steve G. (Oct 4, 2007)

Great Idea, I see how that would work!

Now if I could only find a project with box joints....


----------



## Lesak1 (Dec 26, 2007)

3/8 and 1/2 might work ok, I think the 1/4" might have too much flex if it's very long Dale


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

Air Force 1 said:


> Here is that drawing, I think this will help. You will need to do this for each size. You keep the same pivot point.


Don't forget... the space controlling pieces (rods) DO NOT have to be the same distance high... in fact, if too high, they could prevent you from using box joints on some stock... Like 1/2" box joints on 1/4" thick material. The height really only has to be no more than 1/4"... just enough to control the cutting distance from the bit.

The rods do not have to be very long either... after all, you're always cutting into the ends of pieces (for box joints).

I would be concerned about any flexing... that must NOT happen.

Just thoughts off the top of my head...


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

please delete... posted in error...


----------



## jimc48 (Sep 12, 2007)

*Box Joint Jig*

Has anyone seen the Oak Park box joint jigs? Similar to what Air Force 1 suggested except that they use a HDEP base plate and molded guide with a hole cut for the router bit.


















The link to the Oak Park website is: http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--&product=F025

I see no reason why a plywood baseplate couldn't be used with a dado cut for the appropriate guide. Drill a hole beside the guide with a diameter about 2x the size of the bit you will be using so you can adjust the whole baseplate to achieve the correct distance from router bit edge to guide (ex. for a 1/2" box joint, drill 1" hole centered 3/4" from the guide - this would leave sufficient fudge factor room).

JimC


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

Air Force 1 said:


> Here is that drawing, I think this will help. You will need to do this for each size. You keep the same pivot point.


I think that would be a Slick way of doing it!

By drilling and screwing the bar to the table, once adjusted for good joints, you can install it again and it will be all set to go! Just label the hole "1/2 Bar". :thumbsup:

Drill other holes (for bars) in a different place on table...

Would work really slick! 

I think I'd take a look at McMasters for some bar stock and give it a try.

But, I'll repeat what I said before... for the 1/2" bar, I would get it 1/2" wide (the critical one) x 1/4" high (or slightly less)... Then you could cut 1/2" box joints in 1/4" material if you wanted...

Let us know how it works out, OK?

Edit: Just be careful and DO NOT put excessive pressure against the bars where they could slightly be bent during cutting.


COOL...


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Mar 13, 2007)

jimc48 said:


> The link to the Oak Park website is: http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--&product=F025
> 
> I see no reason why a plywood baseplate couldn't be used with a dado cut for the appropriate guide. Drill a hole beside the guide with a diameter about 2x the size of the bit you will be using so you can adjust the whole baseplate to achieve the correct distance from router bit edge to guide (ex. for a 1/2" box joint, drill 1" hole centered 3/4" from the guide - this would leave sufficient fudge factor room).
> 
> JimC


Rather than just plywood, I think it would be much better if it were laminated with some Formica-like stuff to get it nice and smooth.

Would be a lot better... removing room for slight hickups during cutting.


----------

