# How would you do it?



## Jackson (Mar 8, 2011)

I need to cut a 1 3/8" semi circle in each end of a cedar block 1 1/2" X1 1/2" X 6". I have thought of :

1. Drilling with a forstner bit and then cutting them in two 
2. Running it into a shaper with a cylinder bit.
3. Making some sort of jig and cutting them on a bandsaw
4. Using a 2 X 10 and running the end grain thru a moulder

I need to cut several thousand of these puppys so I'm looking for efficiency and minimal tearout.

All suggestions will be appreciated.

Jackson


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

I would proly go with option #1 :smile:


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

I'd make an assembly line. Feed a long piece of stock into the drill press (option 1) and run the outfeed so the stick can just slide on down to the saw for slicing off the finished pieces


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

SteveEl said:


> I'd make an assembly line. Feed a long piece of stock into the drill press (option 1) and run the outfeed so the stick can just slide on down to the saw for slicing off the finished pieces


Good idea. Feed to a mitre saw and set up a stop block on that.:thumbsup:


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

SteveEl said:


> I'd make an assembly line. Feed a long piece of stock into the drill press (option 1) and run the outfeed so the stick can just slide on down to the saw for slicing off the finished pieces


Good idea. Feed to a mitre saw and set up a stop block on that.:thumbsup:
Two operators would help, one on the drill press, the other on the saw. 
Is the saw kerf gonna hurt you?


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## Jackson (Mar 8, 2011)

No the kerf would not be a problem. I'm thinking a shaper might be really fast but I have not used one and don't know if tear out would be a big problem. Guess I should find someone that has one and try it.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Jackson said:


> No the kerf would not be a problem. I'm thinking a shaper might be really fast but I have not used one and don't know if tear out would be a big problem. Guess I should find someone that has one and try it.


Shaper or router table could work, provided the recess isn't to deep and you can find a 1-3/8" diameter straight cutter, 
Just set stop blocks on each side of the cutter so you can plunge straight in and back straight out. Depth of cut shouldn't be much more than 1/4" though. Use the fence as the stop. How critical is the 1-3/8" and I assume you have access to a shaper?


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## Webster (Mar 6, 2009)

I'm having trouble understanding what you're looking for, as in where the cove is. 
Would the cove length be 1 1/2" or 6"? or is it in the centre of the block?

I'm wondering if you could use the table saw, assuming it isn't in the centre.
Using a guide and running the block over the blade at the proper angle (roughly diagonal) to the blade.

Rick


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## Jackson (Mar 8, 2011)

Webster,

The radius is cut in the end grain of the 6" block. So the 1-3/8" cove is cut in the 1-1/2" end I have cut it on the tablesaw but it takes many passes and is slow.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Jackson said:


> Webster,
> 
> The radius is cut in the end grain of the 6" block. So the 1-3/8" cove is cut in the 1-1/2" end I have cut it on the tablesaw but it takes many passes and is slow.


 
Hi Jackson - That can be done on the router table. You would need this bit #102-2205 from eagleamerica or equivalent 
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v102-0102/ea_-_straight_bits

The thing is 1-3/8" diameter and has a 1-1/4" cutting length. You would need need two good solid blocks clamped to the table that would allow you to plunge the stock directly into the bit. Would need the speed reduced down to 12-14 k and plunge in slowly and steadily. Set depth of cut to 3/4", make first cut, flip stock over and do second cut. I don't know what tearout would be like. Good chance of very little as you have an 1/16" on each side of the cove and your guide blocks should be tight enough to provide some support also.
You mentioned a shaper but with the shaper arbor that would have to be done in a single cut because the arbor nut would get in the way. Or,
Would need a shaper cutter 1-3/8" diameter and, at least, a 1-1/2" cutting length. My guess would be about $200 worth of cutter. 
This could be kind of a scary operation if you're inexperienced on a router table or shaper. That's a lotta sharp carbide whizzing around.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

The key is..."several thousand".

I wouldn't subject a router to the side loads of several thousands.As the cutting tool dulls,these forces are goin out the roof.

Shaper is doable,but would have to run the numbers on cutter cost vs return.They'd be "ganged" and processed...say 10 at a time with an intermediate 180* flip of fixture then run the other end.......stupid fast.

DP may be the best option...well it is on cutter cost.The trick here is to have a fixture that allows cutting end on a prescribed pc.IOWs the pc is cut to length before it goes to DP.Dead simple fixture really,and safe(with a slight adv. over ganged shaper,but its very slight),easy to make.Bttm,sides,top....there would be a "special" end stop,it has 1/2 hole in it....supporting that side of cutter.Remember,drills and drilling is the most efficient(in terms of stock removal and forces required to do so)form of cutting.

Best of luck,BW


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

it depends on how clean it had to be. if clean, then i'd go with a template jig and a 1/2" upcut spiral carbide bit (with bearing) would follow, after i removed most of stock with a bandsaw. if not perfect needed, then i'd purchase a high quality forstner (for the quantity durability) and use the other method.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

Just one other option, run coves on 3/4 stock and glue up.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

BWSmith said:


> The key is..."several thousand".
> 
> I wouldn't subject a router to the side loads of several thousands.As the cutting tool dulls,these forces are goin out the roof.



My common sense agrees with that 100% (I don't have enough router time to speak from experience).

I would not cut to finished length first, however. That means a lot more parts floating about in this mass production circus. Instead, I'd get some rollers (or make 'em with pvc) to make a roller assembly line as I said before. For indexing drilling set the stick first in a shopbuilt indexing jig of some kind. So the dance would go....

1 Pick up stick
2 set in sled
3 slide sled to first indexing mark (6" or so) and drill
4 repeat step 3 until you run out of stick
5 take two steps down the line 
6 remove stick, shove sled back to starting line, and set stick down
7 take two more steps down the line
8 slice - slide - slice until stick is gone

That way you reduce time spent picking up individual parts to the bare minimum. BW said it - several thousand is the key!


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## Jammer (Jul 15, 2009)

How I do it would depend on what it's for.


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## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Steve,if tolerances can stand the hole being half a blade short then drilling first would save a little effort.My initial thoughts were perfect holes with perfect alignment there-of.But its more work for the arm(less on the drill "bit")......it can go either way.

I probably would rather pallet up my pcs cut to length then to drilling station,any culls can quickly be tossed.But yes,at those numbers I'd try it a cpl ways and see what settled in.Good discussion.BW


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

What is it for??












 







.


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## Watsin38 (Mar 10, 2011)

Jackson said:


> I need to cut a 1 3/8" semi circle in each end of a cedar block 1 1/2" X1 1/2" X 6". I have thought of :
> 
> 1. Drilling with a forstner bit and then cutting them in two
> 2. Running it into a shaper with a cylinder bit.
> ...


I want to ask that what are you intended to make with this measurement. Is there any cupboard or some cab nit? If you will tell specifically then you will get the suggestions accordingly.


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