# Drill press quill not moving...



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

I just got a Craftsman 15.5 inch drill press for nearly nothing, and I think I know why. I can’t get the quill to move at all. I removed the quill lock, took off the top pully, pulled out the handle assembly that is supposed to move it. I sprayed it with WD40 where is seemed obvious to do so, and the next day it’s still not moving. I tried tapping the top of the spindle with a hammer and now there’s vertical play in the spindle but the quill still doesn’t budge. I think I messed it up a bit. Model number 113.213780. Any advice? Thanks, Bill


----------



## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Welcome to the forum, Bill! When you get a minute complete your profile with location so it shows in the side panel. You can add your name to your signature line so it shows in each post.

Do you have any photos you can share with us? That often helps. It could be a broken gear rack, assuming this model has one, or something jammed into the quill, etc.

David


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Ok thanks! Sorry for the delay with filling out my profile here. I'll try and post some pics right away. I was fiddling with it and now the spindle came out the bottom with the chuck still attached, lol I was trying to get the chuck loose, lol The quill is still in there holding strong, lol


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

For some reason uploading here also rotated my photos, but here we go.

Info plate:









The whole thing:










Looking down from the top, spindle removed:









Looking up at the quill:









Looking inside with the gear in place and engaged with the quill:










Looking inside while pulling the gear out, and you can see the return spring:









Spindle with the stubborn chuck still attached:









Top end of spindle:


----------



## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Thanks for updating your profile, Bill. The easiest way for me and the best way to control where the photos go is to hit 'Go Advanced' at the bottom, then click on the paper clip in the row of icons above the text field. From there you can browse to your photos if they're on your computer, still the best way over 3rd party hosting. You can upload them and let the software place the photos or you can hit the dropdown and choose which photos go where.

Very few people are going to click on a link to a photo, especially from a new member - sorry, that's just the way it goes. This post may get 50 views over the next day or two but only a few views on the images. But if you post the images directly into the thread then everyone who visits will look at them and you'll get more opinions that you may want. :wink:

David


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Ok I think I fixed my photos issue!


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Would the quill rotate? Like would I be able to say wrap a leather belt around that bottom bit, to prevent damaging/scratching, and take a large pipe wrench to it? Could that possible help free the quill or will I just do more damage?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Don't twist the quill ...*

Make certain the quill lock wedge is removed! There should be nothing mechanical locking the quill in place. It is either seized up in it's travel or the gear is jammed on the rack and pinion. Tap it up from the bottom and down from the top to see if you can free it up. Use a wood block and a sharp blow from a good sized hammer......


Somethin's goofy here .... :surprise2:


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Have you got the manual, if not it is here, if you get it loosened up it does explain how to get the return spring set when you put it together. This is a mystery.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/490886/Craftsman-113-213780.html


----------



## Pineknot_86 (Feb 19, 2016)

Liquid wrench? Just a thought. Good luck.

There's an old saying- Don't force it, use a bigger hammer.


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Thanks guys. I do have the manual, and the quill lock is completely removed. I don't have any liquid wrench, but I have been using a lot of WD40, lol I'll try tapping it from the bottom and maybe turning the quill from the bottom with a big wrench. I'd tap it from the top if I knew where to tap. I've never seen what part is actually supposed to move, lol Obviously the part the pulley mounts to doesn't move, so who knows. I only paid $70 for this thing, so I won't feel too bad if I can't get it working.


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Update! I removed the switch plate from the front as it seemed an obvious access point to the top of the quill, and I discovered an old mouse condo and a bit of rust and two dead tennants! I think this is good as I can address this and hopefully free up the quill.


























What was in there:


----------



## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

A proverbial and literal rats nest at the same time!! Ugh! So one of those little suckers was holding the quill the whole time?? :wink:

I don't think that was an option on my drill press but I haven't looked, not sure I want to. :grin:

David


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

I have had very good luck using "PB Blaster" to free rusted parts.


----------



## Kerrys (May 2, 2016)

Ug, that’s a bit disgusting. Hope it doesn’t smell to bad.


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

The other side of the quill looked really bad. Tons of thick rust. I'm going to go out and get some of the PB Blaster stuff and give it a shot, but I'm having doubts now, lol If I could just get in there with a wire brush that could help, but it's impossible to reach.


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Give it a good soaking, old machinists will tell you to tap the part when using penetrating oil, it sets up a reaction and helps to free up parts.


----------



## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

When I restored my PM66 table saw, which was rusted far worse than your drill press, I used Dupont Teflon Penetrant. I also used it on a couple of jointers and some hand tools and it works great.









David


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

I have some shopping to do! I wonder if a mix of all these products would melt the quill or produce toxic gas? lol. Anyway, I got a pretty good pic of the back side of the quill. You can see the notches that are supposed to engage the feed gear thingy (technical terminology). I actually lowered my phone into the drill press to get that photo.


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

It looks like if you remove the drill feed handle (gear attached) from the head casting, you can then drive the quill downward without damaging the drill feed handle gear. I would soak the quill for at least 24 to 48 hours before attempting to drive it out. You may be able to cut a slot in a piece of tubing that fits over the quill...and by slipping a piece of emery sandpaper into the slot (internally)you may be able to sand some of the rust away from the quill.


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

difalkner said:


> when i restored my pm66 table saw, which was rusted far worse than your drill press, i used dupont teflon penetrant. I also used it on a couple of jointers and some hand tools and it works great.
> 
> View attachment 371545
> 
> ...


holy crap!


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

gmercer_48083 said:


> It looks like if you remove the drill feed handle (gear attached) from the head casting, you can then drive the quill downward without damaging the drill feed handle gear. I would soak the quill for at least 24 to 48 hours before attempting to drive it out. You may be able to cut a slot in a piece of tubing that fits over the quill...and by slipping a piece of emery sandpaper into the slot (internally)you may be able to sand some of the rust away from the quill.


Thanks. I just hope this drill press is worth the effort, lol


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Just another challenge to overcome.


----------



## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

It'll make a great 'shop story' to tell on occasion.

David


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Well so far it won't budge. It's been soaking in PB blast for over 30 hours and I've been reapplying every so often. I was thinking of trying to rotate it with a large pipe wrench, grabbing it from the two inches sticking out the bottom that I've been banging on. Any thoughts on that idea?


----------



## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


Have you tried taking the upper bearing out so you can have access to the top of the quil so you can put a wooden rod on the top so you can pound it out from the top with a hammer?


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

ajdragon said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> Have you tried taking the upper bearing out so you can put a wooden rod on the top so you can pound it out with a hammer?


No. I have absolutely no experience with these things, so I really wouldn't know how to take out that bearing without screwing it up somehow. I'm really good at causing irreparable damage, lol 

Would I need special tools to do that?


----------



## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


It looks like a snap ring is holding it in place.


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

BTracy138 said:


> Well so far it won't budge. It's been soaking in PB blast for over 30 hours and I've been reapplying every so often. I was thinking of trying to rotate it with a large pipe wrench, grabbing it from the two inches sticking out the bottom that I've been banging on. Any thoughts on that idea?


It won't hurt to rotate it as long as you don't destroy the end that you are gripping with the pipe wrench.


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

ajdragon said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> It looks like a snap ring is holding it in place.


Ok, I'll take a closer look at it as soon as I can. Thanks!


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

FrankC said:


> It won't hurt to rotate it as long as you don't destroy the end that you are gripping with the pipe wrench.


Ok cool. I was going to degrease that end as best as possible and then use an old leather belt to hopefully keep the wrench from tearing it up.


----------



## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


If you can carefully removed these three rings from the bottom of the quill you should be able to pound the quill up with a hammer an a block of wood.


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

I can’t see any type of removable retaining ring at the top, plus I just realized there are two spindle bearings at the top end before you get to the quill. The bottom bearing looks pretty much the same. I think maybe that one brownish ring might come off as it looks like it has a gap in it.


----------



## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


The C clip is located under the lower spindle bearing.


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

ajdragon said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> The C clip is located under the lower spindle bearing.



There's just no way to get to under that second bearing with the quill in place. It's a very tight small space. I can't even see under there at all. I could try and jam my pinky in there to try and feel where the little holes in that clip are, and then I'd have to go in blind and maybe get lucky with the snap ring pliers, lol


----------



## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


Try doing this. Two or three good wacks with a small sledgehammer using this technique should get the quill out, just make sure the scrap metal plate is as thick as you can get it to be so it wont bend. 



I do have one option guaranteed to work and requires little effort on your part, "TAKE IT TO A MACHINE SHOP" while your there have them take the upper bearings out so you can replace them.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*See the gap?*

You insert a small screw drier tip in the groove and pry out one end of the "C" clip, remove it entirely and that should allow the quill to be driven out .....?


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

ajdragon said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> Try doing this. Two or three good wacks with a small sledgehammer using this technique should get the quill out, just make sure the scrap metal plate is as thick as you can get it to be so it wont bend.
> ...



Awesome!! The bearings seem perfectly fine as the drill did run very well when I tried it. It’s just the quill wouldn’t move. I’ll try that with the steel rod ASAP! Thanks!!


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

woodnthings said:


> You insert a small screw drier tip in the groove and pry out one end of the "C" clip, remove it entirely and that should allow the quill to be driven out .....?


Yes I did see that. The section of the quill that is rusted is at the top tho, but I will try this too. Thanks!


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Yay!!!


----------



## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


Good work.


----------



## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Perseverance has paid off, Bill. Good job!

Now go make something :grin:

David


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Thanks everyone. I’ll only post one more reply here showing the drill press assembled and working. 😁


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

Had to get two new snap clips for the spindle and ... DONE!


----------



## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


Now you just need to clean all the rust off of the column so you can move the deck up and down nice and easily.


----------



## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Looking at all the pictures its seems feasable to tap the quill from the bottom driving it into the top bearing and pushing it out. This would save any damage to the quill travel guides at the bottom and allow you to clean up the rusty parts, possibly with reverse electrolysis.


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

ajdragon said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> Now you just need to clean all the rust off of the column so you can move the deck up and down nice and easily.


Thanks! There’s actually some duct tape on the column that someone put there to keep the deck from dropping. I guess if you listen the handle, it is sorta heavy. I’ll be sure to get rid of the duct tape and I’ll clean up the rust on the column.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Get a column clamp stop!*

You can get a specific size column clamp, a muffler clamp OR just use a good stainless steel hose clamp to act as a stop. If you should let the table go accidentally it may break or hurt you. It's a cheap safety fix.


----------



## ajdragon (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi


I'm saving lead so I can make a counter weight pulley system for my drill press deck.


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

woodnthings said:


> You can get a specific size column clamp, a muffler clamp OR just use a good stainless steel hose clamp to act as a stop. If you should let the table go accidentally it may break or hurt you. It's a cheap safety fix.


Will do! I don't wear my steel toe boots all the time, so, yeah, lol


----------



## BTracy138 (Feb 7, 2019)

ajdragon said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> I'm saving lead so I can make a counter weight pulley system for my drill press deck.


Sounds interesting for sure! I've heard of aftermarket crank up systems that looked pretty crappy.


----------



## Larry42 (Jan 10, 2014)

After you soak it with penetrant, add some heat and impact. Good source of impact is a pneumatic chisel type tool.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*That's what happens when you come in late ...*



Larry42 said:


> After you soak it with penetrant, add some heat and impact. Good source of impact is a pneumatic chisel type tool.



The problem has been solved about 12 posts ago, on 2-11-19, post no.41 :vs_cool:


----------

