# Hand Plane



## sgtrunningfool (Jan 14, 2012)

What is a normal progression for hand planes for getting wood from rough to smooth? I have an old bailey #7 that I am using but I know I need another one to step toward smoothness. Thank you.


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## Bonka (Mar 24, 2011)

*Planes*

I have a Lee Valley Low Angle Jack plane. I can use it for a lot of different objectives. It is great on end grain. Close up the mouth and it does great at smoothing. I have a 38d iron that makes a 50d York pitch that works well on figured tear out prone wood. It works great on a shooting board.
I tuned up a Stanley-Bailey #5. I put a Hock blade/chipper in it. The blade is thicker than the original and I never opened up the mouth. It takes off fluff and is a good smoother.
Those are two options. I do not know what your budget is but something out there has your name on it.


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## joe bailey (Dec 15, 2011)

required reading (or at least a good start):

http://virginiatoolworks.wordpress.com/2012/06/22/select-the-best-bench-plane-for-the-job/


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

sgtrunningfool said:


> What is a normal progression for hand planes for getting wood from rough to smooth? I have an old bailey #7 that I am using but I know I need another one to step toward smoothness. Thank you.


This excellent video by David Moore may help.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/35868/video-how-to-flatten-wide-boards


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

You can also google Rob Cosman. He's got a video called rough to ready that takes you through the entire process of preparing lumber.


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## Greg in Maryland (Jan 6, 2011)

sgtrunningfool said:


> What is a normal progression for hand planes for getting wood from rough to smooth? I have an old bailey #7 that I am using but I know I need another one to step toward smoothness. Thank you.


It often depends upon what you are trying to smooth (what type of wood, how big it is, how much grain, what tools you have, and the all important, what you currently have sharpened.). 

Here is my routine: 

1) Scrub plane for very, very rough work. Not entirely necessary, but I think it saves a bit of wear on the next plane's blade. Besides, it is a bit of fun!

2) A #7 to flatten and for nailing the high (and low) spots. Don't forget to have a sharp blade and to lightly wax the bottom of the plane for ease of use.

3) A #5 or 6 for spot work if necessary (and if I am too tired to sharpen the #7 blade). Light wax as well

4) A # 4 1/2 for near to final smoothing. Yup, light wax too.

5) A Card Scraper to avoid tearout and for rough spots. Nope, no wax!

6) ROS with various sandpaper grits up to 220 for final finish. I change the pads quite frequently.

This is to smooth the face of a board.

Smoothing the edge is a bit simpler, run it through the tablesaw and perhaps the #7 and the # 4 1/2 and call it a day.

Good luck.

Greg


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I was right there with ya, Greg, until the ROS. You shouldn't really need to sand after scraping. At least not flat easily scraped areas. 

I don't sand until after the first or second coat of finish.

To each his own though.

I like to go with a #6 after the scrub then 8. Right on with the 4-1/2... My smoother of choice, no doubt!

For the scrub remember you don't HAVE to buy a 40 or 40-1/2 or similar. You can buy a cheap jack, open up the mouth with a file and heavily camber the iron. It's a cheap alternative.


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## Wrangler02 (Apr 15, 2011)

firemedic said:


> I was right there with ya, Greg, until the ROS. You shouldn't really need to sand after scraping. At least not flat easily scraped areas.
> 
> I don't sand until after the first or second coat of finish.
> 
> ...


+1. I use wipe on Poly for most of my finishing. Often, I don't sand at all.


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

firemedic said:


> I like to go with a #6 after the scrub then 8. Right on with the 4-1/2... My smoother of choice, no doubt!


 
Geez, you overcompensating for something!?!?!?:laughing:

Typical firefighter, trying to put out a stove fire with a 6" hose. 
:shifty:

(Just kidding around with you. Those are just one size up from what most people use comfortably.)

I'm a #4, 5 7 kinda guy. I'm just a wimp I guess.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

lol, I've never had any trouble with a 8... 

I did fail to say though that I was thinking slabs... Small stuff I go a little bit smaller.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

ok, I'm a little late to the party but here is my take,

https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/05/02/what-planes-do-i-need/


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

This thread is quite interesting and encouraging!

This may very well be a first for wwt's hand tools section!

95% of responses have been the same information and only differing with small nuances... :laughing: when had that ever happened before????? :huh:


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## Wema826 (Jul 22, 2012)

I use a union #5 opened up and high camber as a scrub. then a #6 or # 7 depending on the work piece. if its a big / long slab its the 7 if its under 24 in. its usually the 6. then i like to smooth with either a # 4 or # 3. depending on which one is sharper at the time.


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## tim407 (Nov 24, 2012)

For me it depends on the board. Worst case here i go:

I use a phillester plane at opposite ends of the board and winding sticks to remove any cupping and check for twist. I adjust the ends until they are parallel and then move onto the rest of the board. if I need to remove a lot of material I knock down the high areas with a scrub plane across the grain. Then I use a #5 with a 8in radius camber diagonally across the grain to remove any big scoops left by the scrub plane and stArt bringing the board into plane. I then move to a #7 with a slight camber first diagonally and then down the grain to get everything nice and flat and to remove any scoops left by the jack plane. Finally I finish it up with a #4 and scraper as necessary. 

Trick is to have a good flat edge to mark the high spots often as u go through the whole process. 

Once one side is flat you mark the opposite side with a marking gauge and start with the scrub or jack depending on how much material is needed to remove. 

It's a technique I learned from Bill Anderson at the woodwright school and is actually a whole lot faster and less complicated than I'm making it sound.


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