# first handplane purchase



## charlo489 (Oct 14, 2015)

Hello ! Planning on purchasing my first plane ever. I've read Scharwz's book and I know I might need a few planes on the long run but for a starter, is the veritas low angle jack a good plane to flatten some stock and remove some material ? Should I go for the longer jointer plane ?


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

Google Paul Sellers, He has hundreds of videos on YouTube. You will learn all about what can be done with a hand plane. He is a rock solid teacher that has a passion about teaching from experience and has so many practical tips about hand planes. He is not a show off and is truly a master craftsman.


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

A low angle jack plane is far more useful, especially with additional blades ground at different angles.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

I am still a newbie woodworker, but I don't think that there is any one right answer to "which plane should I get first?" I will share my plans, but I don't have a lot of "in use" experience yet. I am still trying to restore some swap meet / thrift store hand planes and they take a huge amount of time and effort. 

I think that a Veritas low angle jack plane is as good a choice as any. A jack plane is so named because it is a "jack of all trades". Certainly you will get beyond the highest quality if you buy a Veritas brand hand plane, and it should take very little effort to do the final sharpening when it arrives. 

Here are the planes I would like to refurbish or buy in roughly this order:

* No. 5 Jack Plane
* No. 7 Jointer Plane
* No. 60 1/2 (or comparable) Low Angle Block Plane
* No. 4 Smooth Plane (with a cambered blade installed)
After the above four planes:
* No. 5 Low Angle Jack Plane

I have a power planer, but no jointer. I plan to use the jointer plane and a jack plane with a shooting board in lieu of a power jointer.

I have my eye on that Veritas NX-60 low angle block plane, but it is out of stock, and there is no certain date when it will be re-stocked.

I hope this helps.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

If you can stand the sage advice and hindsight of an old man, you ought to be reading Leonard Lee's book:
"A Complete Guide to Sharpening." The new boys are still trying to catch up.

I was given a Stanley Bailey #5 when I retired. Tuned up, it is a true pleasure to use.


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## P89DC (Sep 25, 2017)

My first bench plane was a Miller Falls 5C that remains my most used to this day. Something about the longer #5 jack fits my style better than the traditional #4. I followed TA's list except that I got a 60 1/2 right away. That was back-in-the-day (late 80's) when antique stores had hand tools cheap and wood bargain. I think I had $30 in both of them and still use them. Now-days people have more money than time so it make sense to get LN/Veritas/WR products. Back then old stuff was all there was and we made it work. In the early 90's I took a class from Woodcraft where we learned to tune and sharpen a hand plane we brought to class. /ramble


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## WeebyWoodWorker (Jun 11, 2017)

I use a Stanley No.6 fore plane for most any jointing I need. I've got a few other wooden planes and a No. 4 or two running around that I use for small jigs, chamfers and other nonsense. Unless you want to go off and do everything by hand, a No.5 will probably be the best choice. I'm sure that Veritas makes wonderful products, however dear god they do cost quite a bit, I'm not willing to make that investment as I don't use planes enough. If you do plan on using it quite a bit then go for it I'm sure it'll be a good investment.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

I use my #4 the most, followed by the 5, and then the 7.

The thing about the #5 is that with a few irons, you can use it for multiple purposes.


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## Jig_saw (May 17, 2015)

If you are new to hand planes, I would suggest a Stanley No.4 first. Learn to sharpen the blade and to adjust the frog for the best possible results. You should have a sharpening system in place (like a bench grinder, oil or water stones) and practice on scrap wood first. Later on, when you have developed basic skills, you can advance to the jack plane (No.5) or a low-angle specialist plane for figured woods.


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## Tool Agnostic (Aug 13, 2017)

Chris Curl said:


> I use my #4 the most, followed by the 5, and then the 7.
> 
> The thing about the #5 is that with a few irons, you can use it for multiple purposes.


If you could only choose one, which would you recommend, a jack plane or a low angle jack plane?


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

Tool Agnostic said:


> If you could only choose one, which would you recommend, a jack plane or a low angle jack plane?


I've never had or used a low angle (LA) jack plane, so feel that I am not in a position to make a recommendation. All I can say is that I have read that the LA jack plane is even more versatile than a standard jack plane. That said, unless I come into a good amount of money, I'll stick with my trusty old Stanley #5.


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## Bobnewzip (Dec 14, 2017)

You would be best served to find a #4 or #5 basic Stanley and learn it. The 4's are very abundant and the 5's aren't too far behind. Low bevel planes are something for more advanced woodworkers to use in specific situations and have their own issues to contend with. A 5 will do just about all the tasks a beginning woodworker could need to do from leveling rough sawn lumber to smoothing if need be. Number 4's are smoothers or last step in the planing process kind of planes but can be pressed into good scrubs with different shaped blades. Since you are new, try to find one that has been "fettled" instead of one in need of restoration. It will help to get using a known good plane rather than wondering if the plane is performing properly.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Further to my #5 about my Stanley #5.
I think you need to learn how to take it apart and reassemble it with no parts left over.

The next step is to take the time to learn to sharpen it. Those blades will sing in the wood. Even I can hear it.
Sharpening is a big deal. Get the plane functioning properly with long curleys has a visual appeal
unmatched by sawdust. Get some hands on help. Dr. You-Tube isn't enough.
I have found no need to go over 2500 grit for very soft woods like yellow cedar.

What do I use mine for?
- smoothing wood surfaces enough to apply a drawing for a wood carving.
- really smoothing surfaces for a glue up to get a wood block for carving.
- finish smoothing on the glue-up laminates of mahogany & rosewood for handles for crooked carving knives.

Then for the dinky little stuff, get a couple of spoke shaves. 
I use a paint stick and a bolt as an artificial length for the sharpening and honing.


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## allpurpose (Mar 24, 2016)

IDK.. Go on ebay and you'll find more great old Stanley planes for a lot less money than you can shake a stick at than new fancy schmancy planes for way too much money.. 
I have a great old #4 and a great old #6 plus a bunch of cheap junk planes for looking like junk on my shelf.. .
I need to take some time and do some sharpening.. I used my planes this evening and noticed they're getting kind of dull.. Even pine was offering a bit too much resistance for my taste.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

For decades, I have measured the total included bevel angle for every edge tool that I have bought.
Many different angles. I don't question why. They work really well. Not busted, don't fix it. 
I must be able to replicate that angle, every time I sharpen (and hone) that edge.

Funny how the unwritten parts are the key to easy sharpening. 
Even in the best of books, like Leonard Lee = silent.

If your tool has a really sharp edge, there's nothing to reflect any light
Hold your tool edge up to a really bright light, couple of inches away, and look at it.
If the edge is "dull" (bent edge), there will be one or more flat spots to reflect light.
I call these things "sparks" of light and they are really easy to see.

>> How bad this is determines the starting grit. You have to grind away the damage and re-establish the bevel.
There are several sharpening systems. Pick any one, they all work, and learn it.

Average banged up wood carving tools, I might have to start as coarse as 600. 800 grit is daily.
Don't skip grits, it's faster. Don't shave arm hairs unless you can build a china cabinet out of them.
Test in the wood you work with.

So the next thing is to paint the bevel with black felt marker so you can follow your progress.
I follow with the bright light trick. I observe progress with a 10X magnifier to compensate for my old eyes.
I was taught freehand sharpening. My body is the angle jig. Dr. YouTube was never useful.
I sharpen from my knees, never from my elbows.


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