# Shop made or bought bandsaw fence. Lets see



## Dominick

Just looking for ideas for a fence for my little bandsaw. Show me what you got. Homemade or store bought.
Must show pics.


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## woodnthings

*3 pieces of wood and a bar clamp*

This is very basic but it will work. You can make it self square with another piece on one end, notched to allow the clamp to fit down in against the table. The green strip is a shim to snug the clamp in the slot.


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## Dominick

That's a good idea, what's holding the plywood pieces together? Just screws? 
Thanks


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## Dave Paine

My Grizzly came with a decent fence.

This Mule is way too expensive, but providing the link for inspiration on building one for yourself.

A piece of Unistrut across the table.......

http://www.mulecab.com/bandsaw.html

A Carter product. Uses two of the switchable magnets which can be purchased to make your own.
http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=474&cat_id=75

Lee Valley sell the magnets. This page even shows a easy home made fence.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56000&cat=1,42363,42356&ap=1

A less expensive magnetic fend from ULTRAMAG.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084026/35707/16inch-ultramag-band-saw-fence.aspx

I like the magnetic fences, since they are easier to set to accomodate the blade drift.


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## Dominick

Thanks Dave. I like the magfence. It looks like something that would work for me, or even just buying the magnets and making one. 
Keep the ideas coming guys.
Oh and one other thing is this table is small, so would it be wise to make the table bigger? If so, tips on that would help to. 
Thanks.


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## RogerC

Here's mine. A couple pieces of oak flooring screwed together and held in place with clamps


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## Dominick

RogerC said:


> Here's mine. A couple pieces of oak flooring screwed together and held in place with clamps


Thanks roger. I have lots of that laying around. Great ideas guys. Nice saw and, looks like a piece of cherry.


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## RogerC

Thanks. It's my first bandsaw, and I got an incredible deal off CL. I paid $80 for it. I've had to do some tune-up (balance the upper wheel, new drive belt, etc), but it'll be great for what I do.

That wood is actually a piece of maple


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## haugerm

Mostly just scrap wood and t-track. It works great, but I forgot to notch out a groove for the miter slot.
--Matt


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## Longknife

I use a pivot fence like this. It's easy to use and you don't have to compensate it for blade drift as you have to with a normal fence.


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## Dominick

Longknife said:


> I use a pivot fence like this. It's easy to use and you don't have to compensate it for blade drift as you have to with a normal fence.


Hard to tell how it's set up by the pics. Got any other angles?


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## Dave Paine

Dominick said:


> Hard to tell how it's set up by the pics. Got any other angles?


This is a resaw fence. The design only supports the board at the blade.

The board is shown being resawn.

Longknife calls this a pivot fence, since as the board is being fed, you pivot the wood left or right to keep the blade on the desired track as you resaw.

The piece at right angles to the blade is longer than others I have seen, likely to just bridge the distance from the blade to the outside edge for clamping.


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## Greg in Maryland

I based my bandsaw fence/table from an American Woodworker youtube video: http://youtu.be/rpbwH9510MY

It is made of 3/4 inch baltic birch, with a slot cut for the mitre gauge and the T-track. The fence is the same material. For now, I use clamps to hold the auxiliary table to the band saw table, though I need to make the attachment a bit more permanent and easier to get on and of. There are cleats on the bottom of the auxiliary table that fit the original bandsaw table and keep the auxiliary table from moving about.

I plan on making more than one fence. The one you see already made is for resawing. I'll make a shorter one that can fit under the bandsaw guide mechanism.

I had the extra mitre gauge lying around and that it would be helpful to adjust for bandsaw drift. I have very little drift, though I have not used a variety of blades.

Here are some pictures:


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## Dominick

Thanks Greg, I did see that video earlier today. My only problem with that is my table doesn't have that slot in it for that type of fence. But I'm sure I can configure something like that. 
Thanks for sharing. 









Here's my table.


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## woodnthings

*Held together with 2 sided tape*



Dominick said:


> That's a good idea, what's holding the plywood pieces together? Just screws?
> Thanks


This was a "mock up" from another post that asked the same question. I don't use it as my saw came with a fairly decent fence, however I keep it handy just in case. It can accommodate a slight amount of drift ... IF you know the angle. 
It was dirt cheap since it was made from scraps and I had the clamp. I should use a few screws to hold it together. :yes:


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## cabinetman

Longknife said:


> I use a pivot fence like this. It's easy to use and you don't have to compensate it for blade drift as you have to with a normal fence.
> 
> View attachment 54046



For some, the pivot type fence works out easier for resawing.









 







.


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## cabinetman

Dominick said:


> Thanks Greg, I did see that video earlier today. My only problem with that is my table doesn't have that slot in it for that type of fence. But I'm sure I can configure something like that.
> Thanks for sharing.
> 
> View attachment 54081
> 
> 
> Here's my table.


If you make an add on table, you can set up stop cleats underneath to lock the table in place. 









 







​

.


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## Greg in Maryland

Dominick

Even though the presenter on the American Woodworking video uses the miter gauge slots for his auxiliary table, there is no need to use this approach. In fact, I do have miter gauge slots on my table, but I did not use them. 

Instead, I ripped the plywood into eight 1 inch slats and attached them to the bottom of the 24x24 table. I first attached one cleat to the bottom of the auxiliary table, positioned so that I had the desired overhang (between 2 to 4 inches, I think). I tried to make sure it was parallel to the edge of the auxiliary table.

Once I did that, I removed the bandsaw blade and positioned the auxiliary table on the bandsaw table, marked where I wanted the opposing cleat, removed the table and attached the cleat. All while trying to make sure that the auxiliary table was parallel and perpendicular to the existing table. It took a few tries to where it was sufficiently tight enough. In fact, I waxed the bottom so it would more easily slide, it was that tight. I didn't want any slop

Once I added the side cleats, I added the front cleat, again, making certain that the overhang was sufficient and the table was positioned correctly.

I removed the auxiliary table and reinstalled the bandsaw blade and cut through the auxiliary table from the back. i.e., I slid the auxiliary table along the cleats until the front cleat prevented it from going any further. Because I made a mistake in the placement of the front cleat, I cut further than I intended. (I had to reposition the cleat after I cut the slot for the bandsaw blade, duh).

Next, I cut the slots for the miter gauge and the t-track on the table saw using a dado blade. You want to make sure that there are no screws that will be in the path of the dado blade. 

After that, I built the fence using 3/4 baltic birch, screws, glue and triangular support pieces. I added blocks to one end so that my miter gauge would have something secure to attach to.

To lock down the fence once it is set, I use Rockler Universal Fence Clamps that I picked up on sale on the front and back of the fence.

I do need to create a more elegant solution to clamping the auxiliary table to the bandsaw table than the bar clamps I am currently using. I want something that will not interfere with the table.

I'll try to attach pictures from the bottom so you can see the cleats I am using to position the auxiliary table onto the bandsaw table.

Greg


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## Dominick

Thanks Greg for the description. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'm still thinking of a good and easy way to do it. 
Lots of ideas here. Love it keep em coming.


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## Dominick

Just wondering if it would be wise to remove the cast iron table and make a larger table out if plywood. This table is to small for me. And It's just annoying me. I'm not sure if I should just attach the plywood some how the the cast table, because by doing that I'm losing distance for cutting thicker material. Maybe I'm over thinking like I usually do. Lol
Thanks for your help.


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## WarnerConstInc.

A simple shop made fence works for almost all my needs. I am going to try and find an original hand feed rip fence for my 1922 Oliver, or if I can't find one, make one just like it.


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## Fastback

Be careful how much weight you add to that saw. If I remember correctly you only have one point of support under the table. If it breaks I doubt that you will be able to find a new one. It would need to be fabricated.


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## woodnthings

*get some 1/4" plate steel*



Dominick said:


> Just wondering if it would be wise to remove the cast iron table and make a larger table out if plywood. This table is to small for me. And It's just annoying me. I'm not sure if I should just attach the plywood some how the the cast table, because by doing that I'm losing distance for cutting thicker material. Maybe I'm over thinking like I usually do. Lol
> Thanks for your help.


Have it drilled and tapped for your trunnions and a slit cut to install the blade and a removable circular plate OR you could use a Baltic Birch ply 3/4" or 1/2" with threaded inserts or counter bored bolts down from the top.


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## Dominick

Fastback said:


> Be careful how much weight you add to that saw. If I remember correctly you only have one point of support under the table. If it breaks I doubt that you will be able to find a new one. It would need to be fabricated.


I don't think adding plywood to it would add much more weight to it. There's a threaded bolt for leveling the table, is that what your talking about? Maybe I'm not understanding. 
Thanks


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## Dominick

woodnthings said:


> Have it drilled and tapped for your trunnions and a slit cut to install the blade and a removable circular plate OR you could use a Baltic Birch ply 3/4" or 1/2" with threaded inserts or counter bored bolts down from the top.


So are you saying I could remove the cast and use plywood? If so then I could do that. 
Thanks bill. Shouldn't the substrate be slippery though?


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## woodnthings

*Sure, if you feel adventurous!*

You'd always have the cast table to replace it if your's doesn't work out to your satisfaction., BUT I think it would. Me I go the steel plate solution, but I'm comfortable drilling and tapping holes. You will need to make a pattern for the hole location from 1/4: ply or other stiff material. If you need help I'll give you some. :thumbsup:

You can make wood pretty slippery in several ways. Clear coat, shellac, laminate...etc.


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## Dominick

woodnthings said:


> You'd always have the cast table to replace it if your's doesn't work out to your satisfaction., BUT I think it would. Me I go the steel plate solution, but I'm comfortable drilling and tapping holes. You will need to make a pattern for the hole location from 1/4: ply or other stiff material. If you need help I'll give you some. :thumbsup:
> 
> You can make wood pretty slippery in several ways. Clear coat, shellac, laminate...etc.


Thanks bill. I've done some tapping before, so I'm confident enough in that dept. Im not sure about doing the mitre gauge slot on the top though. I know a metal worker in town, maybe I could talk with him on it. I just don't want this to be a big money project. 
I'll mess around with it and see what happens. 
Do you think melamine would work? I have some of that. 
Thanks again.


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## woodnthings

Dominick said:


> Thanks bill. I've done some tapping before, so I'm confident enough in that dept. Im not sure about doing the mitre gauge slot on the top though. I know a metal worker in town, maybe I could talk with him on it. I just don't want this to be a big money project.
> I'll mess around with it and see what happens.
> Do you think melamine would work? I have some of that.
> Thanks again.


A metal plate top probably would not have a miter slot. You could make a build up of 3 pieces to get there rather than milling one. I would consider Baltic Birch. Remember it's only a bandsaw, not a table saw so accuracy is not as critical since the cut will be a bit rough.
I don't care for slippery surfaces that much since thing can go too fast all of a sudden. Melamine is usually on particle board which is not structurally sound. Plywood is more durable and stable. You can rout dados for aluminum tracks as others have proposed. 

I made this table from sheet aluminum, aluminum channel and plywood for the bandsaw I designed at the U of Illinois:


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## WarnerConstInc.

I found a better picture of the stock Oliver set up. This should be easy for me to make out of some cold roll steel. Seems like a good design no matter what.


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## Dominick

I hear you on the slippery substrate. I'll take what you said in consideration. I guess your right on that it doesn't have to be perfect, I just want to be able to set up a rip fence easily and compensate for blade drift. I messed around with it today and made some cuts with it and found my angle for blade drift, so I'm learning. Also need to get a wider blade. I'd like to re-saw some oak burl, but want a good fence set up first. 
Ok thanks, sorry for the newbie kinda questions. Lol


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## Fastback

Dominick, I was talking about the trunnion. I'm not sure, but I think you may only have 1. The trunnion is where the table pivots at.


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## Dominick

Fastback said:


> Dominick, I was talking about the trunnion. I'm not sure, but I think you may only have 1. The trunnion is where the table pivots at.


Thanks for clarifying, but I have two on mine.


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## rayking49

I'm glad you asked this Dom, as I need to make one for mine too lol.


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## Pirate

I've had a few shop made clamp on fences for my band saws.
I finally bought a Jet fence (same as current Powermatic fence) and put it on my delta 14" bs. I should have done it years ago.

When I use the saw and need to adjust the fence, I don't want to have to deal with lining it up, unclamping front and rear. The Jet is a t square style, like a Biesemeyer fence.


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## WarnerConstInc.

I should add, I do most of my re-saewing with a 1/2" blade, I have a 2 and 3 tpi, plus that blade can stay on the saw for most of the curved work I do. I have a 2tpi 3/4" blade for all day sawing. Running a 1" band on my big saws requires a lot of tension and it is pretty much worthless for anything other then cutting a straight line. 

I don't like switching bands that much, plus 16' to 19' bands can get a little unwieldy at times.


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## Dominick

Thanks Warner. I can go as wide as a 1/2 inch on mine. But can only re-saw about 6" I'd like to get a 1/2 inch blade to try and make some veneer out of some oak burl. Just not sure my saw has enough power for that, being only 1/3 Hp


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## captainawesome

Dominick, did you ever end up building a fence? I got a used Delta 14" about a month ago that had a broken fence, bent side rail, and missing table insert, all as a result of my buddy transporting it a couple hundred miles in the back of his truck.

Rather than trying to fix/replace all the broken or missing parts, I plan on building something similar to the one in the youtube video posted. I was hoping you were going to do something along those lines, only setting it up without the miter slot runner on the bottom seeing as how you don't have a slot in your table.

I'm just getting started on mine, so if you haven't made anything yet, I'll try and keep you in mind in case I come across an idea that can help your lack of miter slot problem.


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## d_slat

not sure if you did anything yet, but If it were me I'd try to make an easily removable table top surface w/ miter slots to add to mount on top of the table. Then, if you want to resaw you can remove it and put the "pivot fence" on and go.


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## Dominick

captainawesome said:


> Dominick, did you ever end up building a fence? I got a used Delta 14" about a month ago that had a broken fence, bent side rail, and missing table insert, all as a result of my buddy transporting it a couple hundred miles in the back of his truck.
> 
> Rather than trying to fix/replace all the broken or missing parts, I plan on building something similar to the one in the youtube video posted. I was hoping you were going to do something along those lines, only setting it up without the miter slot runner on the bottom seeing as how you don't have a slot in your table.
> 
> I'm just getting started on mine, so if you haven't made anything yet, I'll try and keep you in mind in case I come across an idea that can help your lack of miter slot problem.


Thanks for asking. No I haven't had time to do anything with it. I've got a lot of ideas, but nothing done yet. Yea if you come up with something then go ahead and post it here. 
Thanks for thinking about it.


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## Taylormade

Dom, I've got a shop made fence that has served me well for the past two years but it's not easily adjusted, especially for minute adjustments. That said, I'm going to make myself a table and fence here shortly as Rockler decided to charge crack head prices for their set up. 

Amazon had the same thing for $115 but apparently sold out.


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## Dominick

Taylormade said:


> Dom, I've got a shop made fence that has served me well for the past two years but it's not easily adjusted, especially for minute adjustments. That said, I'm going to make myself a table and fence here shortly as Rockler decided to charge crack head prices for their set up.
> 
> Amazon had the same thing for $115 but apparently sold out.


Thanks TM. Please feel free to post it when you do decide on doing it. Ill be checking on it.


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## Sorrowful Jones

I have a Krieg fence. I probably would not have bought it outright because it is too pricey, but when I bought my bandsaw the guy included the fence in the deal. As far a using it, I do like it. It has an adjustment for blade drift and seems well made.


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## miles11we

I keep alot of 1" thick mdf lying around and usually make whatever i need at the time, i have nothing permanent beside the stock fence (referring to all machine). Sorry i dont have any pictures of my previous fences.


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