# What is Your Favorite Table Top Finish?



## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Oy Vey! So many choices.
I am currently using Pre-Cat lacquer for table tops. I am thinking of going to Conversion Varnish or Post-Cat Lacquer for a more durable finish. I have friends also in the business suggesting I go backwards and go back to Nitrocellulose lacquer. 
I have 2 suppliers telling me to stick with the Pre-cat, one telling me to go Conversion Varnish and one suggesting I go back to Nitrocellulose. Each choice has it's own merits. 
The only arguments in favor of Nitrocellulose is that it is easily repaired and very user friendly. My thoughts are that I would rather use a more durable finish and not concern myself about future repairs. 
What is your favorite table top finish and why?
Thanks in advance


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Milesi 2k urethane. CV and pre-cat lacquer are limited by 4-5 mil dft and they are VERY temperature sensitive. Spraying or letting cure in temps lower than 65 degrees can cause cold checking. I've sprayed a ton of CV and pre-cat but I like the 2k urethane way more for tables. They used to make excellent bartop lacquers that were good for tabletops but they are almost impossible to find these days and the new age nitro lacquers aren't anywhere near as good as the old stuff IMHO. There are some really good WB coatings that I would use on tables if I had to. The Renner product from IC&S is very good with the hardener and I also like Bona-Traffic which is a floor coating with a hardener.

http://www.ics-renner.com/renner/site/default.asp

http://oaklandwoodfloors.com/information-hardwood/bona-traffic-water-base-floor-coating.html


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## nicewood (Sep 15, 2009)

polyurethane is durable I also like Danish Oil but it needs more care


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## CharlesNeil (Jun 26, 2007)

I agree, dont go backwards, the conversion varnish is super tough , and fast , as well as the post cat lacquers, I use both, the lacquer is a little more friendly to use, cant tell alot of difference in durability , what i really like is the what you see is what you get finish, the cat finishes, when cured , usually 48 hours max, dont shrink back like pre cat lacquer ans nitro lacquers, you will be pleased with either ... quick, durable and out the door ..


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Post-Cat vs. Conv. Varnish*

My current shop is unheated except for the time I am in there working. I have a cheap propane heater that eats gas like there is no tomorrow so running it overnight is out of the question. Also, I always finish everything I start in the same day. If I cant remove a top easily, I will start spraying upside down (the piece, that is), and then right side up to assure I get it from all angles and kinda ignore the top. After about 2 hours, I will mask the piece whether a table, dresser or whatever with butcher paper (cheap by the roll at Sam's Club) and shrink wrap and then spray the top. This will prevent overspray and allow me to satin the legs, apron, etc and gloss the top. 
Given this situation - the no heat thing, would I be better off with post-cat or conv. varnish? or would it even matter?


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## CharlesNeil (Jun 26, 2007)

Tony both will work , since both are chemically cured, they will not tack up as quick in the cold, but they will set up fine, so dont get trigger happy , or you will get run city .. dont ask how i know


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

NC lacquer used to be my mainstay. I get equivalent results with waterbased polyurethane.


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## Alan P Oliver (Dec 26, 2008)

I've been using water based lacquers for tables for years. They are very user friendly and very effective. I use Morrells but I don't know if they're in the States.


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## cusingeorge (Nov 17, 2007)

I'm with Rick M. except I use ICA polyurethanes or a pourable two part epoxy from KlearKote.

I would never use anything less than one of these two products. Nitrocellulose lacquers and precats do not have the moisture, heat, scratch and chemical resistance needed for tables and bartops, I don't care what anyone says.


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