# Workshop Electrical Setup



## MrSamNC (Sep 24, 2012)

This is for those of you who have had to run electricity to your work areas. My workshop was just a backyard shed in its previous life, and therefore only has a single 20A breaker running it. It's time to consider properly doing the electrical and upping the capabilities. My question is, what amperage or wiring setup do you have for your shop? What curveballs were thrown at you during the process?

All of my tools are 120v (with the exception of an arc welder).

Thanks!


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## MrSamNC (Sep 24, 2012)

Shop size: 12x16 with loft area (future)

Tools:
Contractor table saw
6" Benchtop jointer
13" thickness planer
12" drill press
10" band saw
10" miter saw
Benchtop disc/belt sander
Oscillating spindle sander
Various other electric hand tools (drills, sanders, router, etc)

Future Considerations:
Some sort of dust collection and filtration
Would like to have capability to use welder without firing up generator
Will be adding A/C and heat sources


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*100 AMP panel will serve you well*

withA 60 AMP will work, but with a 50 AMP 220V welder?? you won't have many open slots left in the panel. The number of slots in the panel is the key. The more the better, because it allows more dedicated circuits especially on 220V each on it's own breaker. If you are going to the trouble why limit yourself to 120 V circuits? Most power tools over 1 1/2 HP should be on a dedicated circuit and will be better on 220 V.
Lighting and power tools should NOT be on the same circuit, in the event you trip a breaker the lights will remain on.

You can put more breakers in the panel with more amperage, say 150 AMPs, than the panel is rated for, say 100 AMPs, as long as there is a Master on/off breaker that will limit the total current draw from the feed. The reason is that you won't operate all the devices simultaneously and therefore over draw the Master breaker.

You should seek the advise of a local licensed electrical before making any changes or improvement to your service.

I'm just saying that a forward thinking plan will allow for getting better tools with larger motor in the future.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Depending on what you may want in the future and what you current main panel can support you should have a 60 to maybe a 100 amp subpanel installed. I would suggest having a local electrician look at everything and let them do it.

I have a 60 amp myself but if you do or will want to run a welding machine the 100 amp would be better. Just have all your needs current and future ready to discuss with the electrician. I would add that most electricians I know would not offer to get you more power then needed but I rather have a little more available then to need a little more then what's avilable later.


We have many heated discussions on here about electrical so let's hope this one stays calm.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Hey Bill you beat me to it. Same advice but slightly different wording.:thumbsup:


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

MrSamNC said:


> This is for those of you who have had to run electricity to your work areas. My workshop was just a backyard shed in its previous life, and therefore only has a single 20A breaker running it. It's time to consider properly doing the electrical and upping the capabilities. My question is, what amperage or wiring setup do you have for your shop? What curveballs were thrown at you during the process?
> 
> All of my tools are 120v (with the exception of an arc welder).
> 
> Thanks!


The most difficult thing you will need power for is the welder. How many amps does it pull? How far is the workshop from the source? If you are 80 to 100 feet from the source you may need the next size up wire to run the service than if you were close. What you will need to do is determine what the total draw on power all the machines and lights that you might have running at the same time and allow some for tools you don't have yet. This total should be 80% or below the main breaker size. Also what I would suggest is installing a seperate ground rod for the sub-panel.


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## against_the_grain (Aug 15, 2010)

Glad for this post. I too will be needing power. Currently running extension cords. .

Basically shop is in a state of flux as I'm expanding it. But anyhow, how much can one expect to pay for the installation of 100 amp sub-panel ? Shop is less than 30 feet from the house panel and only a few feet from the service lines.

Probably will run the outlets and wiring to them inside myself. Plan on using metal conduit outside the walls.

Apologies,not trying to hi-jack the thread. I think its all relevant to the MrSam's questions.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

against_the_grain said:


> Glad for this post. I too will be needing power. Currently running extension cords. .
> 
> Basically shop is in a state of flux as I'm expanding it. But anyhow, how much can one expect to pay for the installation of 100 amp sub-panel ? Shop is less than 30 feet from the house panel and only a few feet from the service lines.
> 
> ...


 Is the shop in the house or a seperate building? No more than 30' if its in the house I would wire the shop to the main panel if you have enough breaker space. If not it shouldn't cost very much to have someone run a sub-panel. It would probably take less time to install the sub-panel than it will take you to run the outlets.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

MrSamNC said:


> This is for those of you who have had to run electricity to your work areas. My workshop was just a backyard shed in its previous life, and therefore only has a single 20A breaker running it. It's time to consider properly doing the electrical and upping the capabilities. My question is, what amperage or wiring setup do you have for your shop? What curveballs were thrown at you during the process?
> 
> All of my tools are 120v (with the exception of an arc welder).
> 
> Thanks!





against_the_grain said:


> Glad for this post. I too will be needing power. Currently running extension cords. .
> 
> Basically shop is in a state of flux as I'm expanding it. But anyhow, how much can one expect to pay for the installation of 100 amp sub-panel ? Shop is less than 30 feet from the house panel and only a few feet from the service lines.
> 
> ...


Ok both of you need to listen here. Steve is not an electrician and you should both talk with a local electrician to be safe. You can always check with the electrician about what you can do yourself, having him check it and file any permits needed. Failure to get required permits could result in loss of insurance coverage if something happens. Steve may mean well but if you get shocked and die or your house burns to the ground Steve will be no where to be found.

We can suggest things but you need to consult a local licensed electrician.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

You guys have it so easy in the states. 

In Australia you are not even allowed to take a point off the wall unless your a licensed electrician or change a tap washer unless u are a licensed plumber.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

DaveTTC said:


> You guys have it so easy in the states.
> 
> In Australia you are not even allowed to take a point off the wall unless your a licensed electrician or change a tap washer unless u are a licensed plumber.
> 
> Dave The Turning Cowboy


 We are headed that way. Just finished a major remodel of a 3 bedroom and 3 bath victorian. I had to have a plumber sign off on everything I did and as of the first of the year the same thing is required for electricity.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

rrbrown said:


> Ok both of you need to listen here. Steve is not an electrician and you should both talk with a local electrician to be safe. You can always check with the electrician about what you can do yourself acing him check it and file any permits needed. Failure to get required permits could result in loss of insurance coverage if something happens. Steve may mean well but if you get shocked and die or your house burns to the ground Steve will be no where to be found.
> 
> We can suggest things but you need to consult a local licensed electrician.


EXACTLY









 







.


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## MrSamNC (Sep 24, 2012)

I feel I have gotten the information I needed for this thread. We can go ahead and close it before it gets too heated.  I don't see the option on the iPad or I would.


Thank you all for the information and guidance.


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## against_the_grain (Aug 15, 2010)

Steve Neul said:


> Is the shop in the house or a seperate building? No more than 30' if its in the house I would wire the shop to the main panel if you have enough breaker space. If not it shouldn't cost very much to have someone run a sub-panel. It would probably take less time to install the sub-panel than it will take you to run the outlets.


Its a seperate building. 

And rrbrown and cabinetman. I hear you loud and clear.
I'm not exactly comfortable fooling around with high voltage. I will definitely get an electrician . 

Think I read where you can wire the outlets and conduit runs yourself as long you follow code. I was thinking this could be done prior to the hook-up and checked by an electrician. No live electricity involved.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

against_the_grain said:


> Its a seperate building.
> 
> And rrbrown and cabinetman. I hear you loud and clear.
> I'm not exactly comfortable fooling around with high voltage. I will definitely get an electrician .
> ...


Yes but you need to make sure it's to code. Local areas will sometimes have stricter codes. It's best if you talk to the electrician first about it. He will give you his input which is what matters if he has to put his name on it.


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

If it is a separate building, you could consider having the power company put a second drop in so you'd have stand alone power for your shop. That's what I did when I built mine. I have an 800 square foot shop and a 200 amp panel. I'm decent with wiring but to get it all code certified so the power company would run the wire to the drop, it was easier to have a licensed electrician install the weatherhead and panel. I wired the rest of the shop from there.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

My workshop is about 14' x 18', downstairs. The perimeter is choked with freezer, shelves, block & log carving wood storage and one 8' bench.

I have an island bench in the middle: 10" chop saw, 8" band saw, bench drill press and router + table around the 4 sides. Four useful work stations. Try as I might, it seems that I can only run one tool at a time! Can't see as I need a 200A service.
So, I ran an extension cord with a quad box which hangs down from the ceiling over the island bench. Ridiculously simple to put together. Everything is plugged in. All the power cords are up off the floor and out of the way. Anything else I may need in process gets plugged into the box at the expense of some tool I don't need.


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## against_the_grain (Aug 15, 2010)

Robson Valley said:


> My workshop is about 14' x 18', downstairs. The perimeter is choked with freezer, shelves, block & log carving wood storage and one 8' bench.
> 
> I have an island bench in the middle: 10" chop saw, 8" band saw, bench drill press and router + table around the 4 sides. Four useful work stations. Try as I might, it seems that I can only run one tool at a time! Can't see as I need a 200A service.
> So, I ran an extension cord with a quad box which hangs down from the ceiling over the island bench. Ridiculously simple to put together. Everything is plugged in. All the power cords are up off the floor and out of the way. Anything else I may need in process gets plugged into the box at the expense of some tool I don't need.


I guess each has there own needs and makes do accordingly. I plan on having a dust collection running when a tool is . Also the lights dim when I run a tool.So they need their own circuit as well.

Additionally I will probably be running an electric heater. So, I basically am going to need several circuits and the extension cord isn't cutting it for me . And don't really want to be running several extension cords for each need.

Don't think I need to get the electric company involved for an 80-100 amp sub-panel.That would probably be very expensive anyway. Will let the electrician counsel me here. But 200 amps is over-kill for my needs imo.(No pun intended)

I'm thinking one or two 220s and then around 3 circuits for 120 with differing amp ratings.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

As it has been said.....

Have an electrician do the job with a permit from your city or county and have the electrician pull the permit. The permit is important because it implies a lot of legal responsibilities and qualifications that relieve you of liability.

If it were me, I would put a sub panel in the shed and a 100 amp capacity. The only difference in the cost is the materials. An electrician encounters the same labor cost pulling either a 60 amp or 100 amp circuit. Remember, you don't want to do it twice.


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## mveach (Jul 3, 2010)

rrbrown said:


> Yes but you need to make sure it's to code. Local areas will sometimes have stricter codes. It's best if you talk to the electrician first about it. He will give you his input which is what matters if he has to put his name on it.


Yup... Federal, State, County and City codes. Not to mention NFPA and OSHA. If money is tight, you can save some money doing the work up to the box. However as stated by others, all plans and materials need to be approved before you start, and permits issued. All connections must be left open until inspected and connection to power made by a licensed electrician. Even the manner in which wires are joined must meet code. Sorry to run on but, It can't be stressed enough how important it is to have everything don correctly.


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## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

not wanting to get in the brawl lol and i'm NOT a licensed, but worked with a residential/commercial licensed electrician to get power to my shop, just wanted to say check out "mobile home wire" available at your local lowe's, HD, etc. carries 150 amps, i have two 220 volt saws and all my small stuff (miter saw, planer, jointer, lights, etc.) and it works great. He ran the wire from house to the building (about 150 feet), I wired the rest, all to code. My advice is to measure the length from house to building VERY sparingly, the wire has to be spliced/ coated and heated if you have to piece it.


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## Burb (Nov 30, 2012)

mveach said:


> Not to mention NFPA and OSHA.


NFPA will basically be your minimum standard, NEC (National Electric Code) might be a little more stringent. As for City/state/municipality codes, they may be more but not less stringent. As for OSHA, don't worry about. That more for the contractor to deal with than anything else.

Mark


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## Futurepast (Jun 18, 2012)

Buddy of mine ran his own...wasn't carefull....got knocked on his ass, I called him arkey sparky in front of his grand kids......now thats what they call him "grampa sparky" :laughing:


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## willbess08 (Jul 5, 2012)

i hit my elbow on the neutral bar in my subpanel when i wired in my TS, now i cut the main breaker off before i even get out the wire tool lol


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## against_the_grain (Aug 15, 2010)

I had 220 get me once. Felt like someone hit me in the shoulder with a sledge-hammer. Nope. Learned my lesson.

I have also seen how a short can quickly become a fire. So whatever I decide to do, will be done either by a licensed electrician, or over-seen by one.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

Get a pro to do the sub box, 100A would be nice, and comfortably legal, too.
The rest of it, the power points, is just tedious.

Uncovered until inspected? Your mileage may vary.
Had a sewage holding tank installed (to resort village code by plumbing contractor) for my summer place.
Dang near 3 years to the day, the Health Department intended to inspect the installation.
All I really wanted to do was to tell them where to swim.


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