# First time table project



## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

Here is a couple of pics of the walnut table top. My first attempt at a project of this size.
Few pics of what I started with and with wood cut to size or close too.


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## AnselmFraser (Oct 7, 2010)

The table top looks great well done .


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

I still have to work on the thickness. The boards in the top are 12inx50in. When I do the end the total length will be 62in long.


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

mthurt said:


> I still have to work on the thickness. The boards in the top are 12inx50in. When I do the end the total length will be 62in long.
> Thank you I'm hoping I can do it justice.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Something to consider...*



mthurt said:


> mthurt said:
> 
> 
> > .... I'm hoping I can do it justice.
> ...


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

That is how I planned on installing the bread board ends. Im still debating wether to have the mortise and tenon show on the end grain.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

mthurt said:


> That is how I planned on installing the bread board ends. Im still debating wether to have the mortise and tenon show on the end grain.


Keep in mind that depending on how stable your interior environment is kept will determine the amount of expansion and contraction of the table top. The end pieces will expand/contract minimally across the width of the table. However the long boards will expand/contract the most across the grain which is across the width. There will be times when the planks will be inside the end boards, even with the end boards and protruding the end boards - just moving with the change in humidity in the house. This will be mitigated somewhat with today's newer finishes slowing the moisture exchange between the wood and the environment. However, 48 " wide is pretty wide for a solid top. I would venture to say that the width of the table can change between 1/8" to 1/2" total from the yearly min to max deviation. These figures are the extremes and your top should fall somewhere in between given normal heating/cooling. If you are going for the modern contemporary look, then you should have the ends closed to conceal the planks and give it a cleaner look. If you are going for the country or rustic look, it can go either way with the ends either open or closed. 

Sorry there cant be any definitive answer for you. The above is just something to think about.


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

I believe I'm going to stay with the neat end grain look. The table is going to be 33inches wide and 55 inches long. I will be taking more pics of the progress. 
I will be asking newbie questions and taking in any knowledge shared with me.
I'm glad I found this community


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I always make the top first, just incase something happens and I have to change my overall dimensions. Its easier to change the top than the apron and legs after they were glued and assembled. 

Have you decided on the table base and leg design yet?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

You might consider how wide the BB ends are. The wider they are the more prone they would be to be of greater leverage if leaned on. They are going to be leaned on.:yes:

I've had good service from machining the tenon on the BB.









 







.


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

Yes I've already have the base parts rough cut to size. The aprons and stretchers I will do when I finalize the top.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> You might consider how wide the BB ends are. The wider they are the more prone they would be to be of greater leverage if leaned on. They are going to be leaned on.:yes:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


+1
I've been meaning to mention that but I keep getting side-tracked.
Must be old age.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

mthurt said:


> Yes I've already have the base parts rough cut to size. The aprons and stretchers I will do when I finalize the top.


I'm curious, what style have you selected?
I'm a big fan of walnut.


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

The tenon on the BB makes me curious. I was going to have the tenon on the table part itself. My BB I was going to have 6 inches wide could make them wider but I wouldn't want them to wide do to the look my wife likes.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tony B said:


> If you are going for the modern contemporary look, then you should have the ends closed to conceal the planks and give it a cleaner look. If you are going for the country or rustic look, it can go either way with the ends either open or closed.
> 
> Sorry there cant be any definitive answer for you. The above is just something to think about.


Breadboard ends if done properly will help align the field boards of the table top, and provide a cover for the end grain. If the BB is made with a blind end...that is the board is cut wider initially to provide for a tenon, and then the ends are cut off to make a continuous seam across the table boards. If this is done, and the top boards do expand, they will slip past the BB, and could protrude slightly beyond the outer BB edges. 

Since the mortise on the boards (and I like to register it from the top edge) is short from the edges of the tabletop, it's a very clean look. I haven't had any negative comments from clients when the tenon is visible at the edges of the BB. Either method is completely discussed with the client. Some prefer to see that fitment.









 







.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*BreadBoard end Size.*

Something to consider......
Normally, the tenons would only go onto the BB end about 1" to 1 1/4" deep on a table this size. 

I assume that your top milled down to about 6/4 or lets say 1 1/2".
the tenons will probably be 3/4" thick leaving the dado/mortise slot on the breadboard with 3/8" on top and 3/8" on bottom. Now, a 6" wide BB end has the potential for a lot of leverage and stress on that joint... people leaning on it with their elbows or standing and leaning on the ends. As far as I know there are no cut and dry rules on the width of the BB. I personally would probably not go more than 4". This is a personal choice. Cut a 3 or 4 inch piece, lay it on the end of the table, see how it looks and take it from there.

What do others on here think?


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

Here is some pics of my progress. Tabletop glued up.


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

Working on BB for the table. Here is my progress
Last picture was a test fit of the BB


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

Tony's observation re the width of the breadboard is good. 3-4 inches is probably the max or you would need a breadboard on the breadboard.
The test fit shows why the blind M&T joint is best. The space at the bottom of the mortise is not attractive and the middle section where you can glue benefits from a space for any extra glue to go. 
-
Another design point is the choice of wood for the glue up. The prominent arches, cathedrals on the board show that the boards are cut close to the centre of the log and probably sawn on an angle to the axis of the log. This also shows on the end and sides of the tabletop.
This gives a higher risk of splitting and certainly cupping of the boards. Walnut is relatively stable and your BBs should hold the top flat so lets hope you are OK.
If you had a choice , the centre 2-4 inches of each board would be culled out to make a more dimensionally stable top. It's hard to do but the long term result might be worth it.?
Walnut is great wood to work.


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

Well here is the base for my table. White oak and just a little walnut. Fit could be better but I'm pleased with it. 
Need to learn to be more patient with the build.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Looks nice!!!! You did well. Also looks very sturdy.


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## mthurt (Mar 28, 2013)

Here is a few pics of the table. Still needs a couple more coats of finish and a buffing.
A birthday gift for my beautiful wife


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