# Is this Delta Radial Arm saw any good?



## hawkeye10 (Feb 18, 2015)

I have no idea how old this saw is but I wouldn't mind having a good RAS. I had a Sears RAS in the 70's and it was very hard to keep lined up. I would spend an hour setting it up and make 4 or 5 cuts and it would be out of line again. I don't want another one like the Sears saw. :sad2:

https://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/d/deltaradial-arm-saw/6663392223.html


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

That is a good model, here is a link from wood magazine, new MSP $1600 at the time:

https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/saws/radial-arm-saws/delta-10-radial-arm-saw-rs830

It is a dual voltage model which is a plus, can't comment on price, maybe a bit on the high side but looks to be in pretty good condition. Can't be compared to the cheaper models that had the crank for raising and lowering toward the front with a belt connection.


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## Bluenote38 (Nov 27, 2010)

If it is a Delta 830 offer him $175 and take it at $200. Unless it's been seriously abused that price is a steal.


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

If it runs it's worth 200 bucks. Most radial arm saws have a propensity to get a tiny bit "out" after several of good long cutting sessions. They are overhung motors on a long arm with a lot of moving parts, from the arm rails and rollers clear down to the elevating gear train. The older they are or the harder they've been used, the more easily they can go wonky.

However, most of them, mine included, are simple to realign. I keep a square and triangle handy to quickly check the runout and blade angle after I've swung the arm and then come back to perpendicular to the fence. But I also don't rely on it for the most critical crosscuts, which are few. I can certainly build cabinets all day long with it, but I reserve the sliding miter saw for pinpoint accuracy for, say, trims or face frame detailing.

I use my RAS way more than any other tool in the shop. If you do any kind of home remodeling, it's invaluable. I cut everything from 2x4's to 3/4 trim to vinyl siding with it. I absolutely wouldn't know what to do without one.


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

hawkeye10 said:


> I have no idea how old this saw is but I wouldn't mind having a good RAS. I had a Sears RAS in the 70's and it was very hard to keep lined up. I would spend an hour setting it up and make 4 or 5 cuts and it would be out of line again. I don't want another one like the Sears saw. :sad2:
> 
> https://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/d/deltaradial-arm-saw/6663392223.html


The probable problem with your '70s RAS was the aluminum block where the yoke lock is. You remember the thing you would pull up to swing the yoke to rip cuts. The threads that held the rollers for the yoke to slide on the arm were probably weakened and compromised. You could never get a good alignment. I sold my RAS back to Emerson Electric for $100. Basically they were buying the liability. 

I looked at the picture on CL. I was thinking that if the saw was a lumber yard model that ran on 230 volts, it might be a good deal. The saw is a homeowner model. I would avoid it.

BTW - IMNSHO A radial arm saw is a left handed machine that must be used right handed. Generally speaking, besides being evil, a RAS is just a dangerous tool that really can't be designed to be safe.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

NoThankyou said:


> BTW - IMNSHO A radial arm saw is a left handed machine that must be used right handed. Generally speaking, besides being evil, a RAS is just a dangerous tool that really can't be designed to be safe.


A machine can not on it's own be "evil", since it has no intentions nor emotions. It must be a West Coast term, because a member called it the same when referring to my plans to use a RAS on a project. Here's the thread I started:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/evil-machine-28461/

I also don't think it's a left handed machine, since it IS operated by your right hand. If you are "left handed" that's your issue and maybe you shouldn't use one. The blade is on the left side of the motor to make it more visible when using your right hand to PULL it through the workpiece which you are holding down with your left hand, if that's what you mean?

The physics explained here:





In woodworking saws specifically, you can either move the spinning blade and motor into the workpiece (RAS and circular saw) OR move the workpiece into the spinning blade (TABLESAW). The physics are different in each case since the blade is on the top side of the workpiece in the case of the RAS or coming up from underneath on the table saw. Ya gotta understand what happens in each case, and if that's too much then Ya probably shouldn't be using one.

Ripping on each is very different, but cross cutting is quite similar. The nose of the blade guard must be just kissing the top of the workpiece to hold it down on the table when ripping on the RAS, and all the other precautions apply as when ripping on the table saw, maintaining contact with the fence, etc. That's because the blade's rotation is trying to lift the work off the table as the teeth enter it as you are feeding. The opposite is occurring on the table saw because the blade's rotation is pressing the work down towards the table. Yes, the blade's teeth MAY tend to lift it up at the rear on a table saw, but the kerf is already made and it's the operator's duty to maintain contact with the fence until the pass is completed or you will have a kickback. :surprise2:

There is a "anti-kickback" feature that most folks remove because it can get in the way at times. Here's a short video I found that explains how that works:





I own about 4 RAS, some I use, others are for parts including the motor assemblies and carriages. I made a 2 axis panel same from one of the carriages and it works just fine. See My Photos for a picture. I also used a carriage to make a radial arm router which I can easily install on the arm's rails, and a "permanent" dado setup on a different carriage... they all are interchangeable in the old Craftsman line. I like 'em. :vs_cool:


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Mention a Radial Arm Saw and there will always be someone with negative comments, like Apple computers they are just one of those things that tend to polarize beliefs despite the facts.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Building a lot of casework, I loved my RAS. It was a 1957 Dewalt 16-inch blade with 5 hp 220 motor, that was a beast but I loved it. I could make a 24 inch cut easy with it. It was the dickens to get set up but once set up it would stay that way, never had to reset it again. If I had the room, I would buy that saw back again.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*You know me Frank ....*



FrankC said:


> Mention a Radial Arm Saw and there will always be someone with negative comments, like Apple computers they are just one of those things that tend to polarize beliefs despite the facts.


I don't really offer advice on subjects I don't have first hand experience with, like actually using one or owning one in the case of a woodworking machine or power tool. The naysayers on RAS fall into 2 camps, those who used one and it scared the crap out of them and those who used couldn't figure out how to set it up properly .. so it wouldn't scare the crap out of them and sold it or gave back to Emerson for the $100 bucks.

I fall into a 3rd camp, I got 'em, I use 'em and I like 'em. I see them as a companion to a table saw, sorta inseparable but completely different. The RAS crosscuts better than a table saw, the table saw rips better than a RAS. You can do either on either, it's just one is better for that specific operation. Go to a box store or any decent size lumber yard, or cabinet shop and you'll find a RAS in the 14" to 16" size. My local lumber yard often will cut a 16 ft in half if you need 2 - 8 footers in a 12" wide plank using their big RAS. They always pull the saw through the work rather than push it for reasons I have already stated. 

Ever wonder why lumber yards and box stores use vertical panel saws rather than table saws for sheet goods? I'll betcha the safety police had a say in that at some point. Table saws are too dangerous, but we will have a big RAS. Ever notice how many safety guards are on the box store RAS? You couldn't cut your hand off if you wanted to. :vs_OMG:


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

See my post # 4. 

And oh yeah, it's fabulous for making a couple of crosscut rabbets or dados without the need of the dado blade. Raise the blade up half the thickness, back and forth a few times and viola! Instant dado! Also easy to sneak up on the final pass to make your shelf rock solid.

Folks, it'll always be easier to SEE what you're doing with the motor and blade on the top of the work. Yes, you need to do due diligence on your setups and keep your fingers out of the way (duh!), but anytime you can see exactly what the blade is doing to your board, it leans toward better accuracy.

Again, I could survive without almost any other tool in my shop... except my radial saw. It'll do way more than many people think.

Cheers
Mark


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

Evil machine, YES!

A normal cut, the blade has the tendency to want to climb into the cut and toward you. If you are expecting it, then it isn't a problem. I knew someone who wasn't expecting the climb and lost ¾ of four of the fingers on his left hand. All he was doing was scoring the tabletop after initial assembly. When his hand healed sufficiently, he packed up the RAS and took it back to Sears. Besides the refund, the manager gave him an extra $100 credit on his credit card.

The aforementioned threads in aluminum issue. This causes huge alignment issues on the '70s Craftsman saws. The early to mid '70s Craftsman RAS were probably the best designed ones ever made. 

The ruler accuracy changes with every blade change. For accuracy you want to use the right (motor) side of the blade to align the cut. You can't hold the work against the fence with your right hand so you must effectively cut and use the off fall. Not a good way to operate. 
BTW - Anything that is cut on the side of the blade away from the arbor flange is off fall.

A rip cut? Prepare for a face full of sawdust. 

A rip cut? You MUST use a push stick.

A rip cut? Don't stand in the line of fire. The slightest deviation away from the fence and the workpiece is coming straight to the operator. 

A long rip cut? The fence is short. Best advice duck.

I had an early '70s 10" Craftsman RAS. To this day, threads in aluminum excepted, it was the best designed RAS. I tried but failed to convince Emerson Electric to make those two pieces that held the rollers for the yoke to ride on the arm out of steel. If I could have gotten those two pieces made from mild steel I would still be using that RAS today. I used that saw for well over 25 years. Bought it for $179 and sold the yoke back to Emerson Electric for $100. That is a little over $3 per year for use. Emerson was buying the liability from the RAS. 

For someone new to woodworking, my advice would be 'Do not take a RAS, even as a gift.' If someone is an experienced woodworker, 'Please be very careful.' 

I still say* RAS = EVIL*.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

The question was if that model is a good saw, it is a Delta, what does Craftsman have to do with this discussion?


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

FrankC said:


> The question was if that model is a good saw, it is a Delta, what does Craftsman have to do with this discussion?


The problem is that a RAS is marketed as a do everything saw. Cross cut, Rip, Dado, Mill, etc. When you look at it in the 'Should the RAS do everything?' microscope, the answer is not just no but heck no. With the exception of the aluminum threads, all of the dangers and cautions apply to any RAS. I looked at other brands before I bought the Craftsman and that the Craftsman was the best. Since then I have had a passing interest in RAS design. Nothing has really impressed me. 

I will say this again, if you are new to woodworking, do not get a Radial Arm Saw. Your fingers are worth a lot more than any deal you can get on a RAS. 

If you are an experienced woodworker and understand the physics of rotating machinery, go ahead but please be very careful.


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## Bluenote38 (Nov 27, 2010)

A RAS is like using any piece of industrial equipment, it is made to remove material very fast - so be very careful. A South Bend or Minster will kill you or take a finger or hand. A RAS, TS, Shaper, Jointer all can do the same. IF you are afraid of the machine then don't use it. That fear makes it a danger to you and those around you. If you are careless, sloppy, or negligent in your setup, handling, care, maintenance, and operation DO NOT use it. 



A well tuned RAS can do far more than any other single tool in your shop and do it safely if you take your time in setting up. No slap-dash, half baked jigs, No loose pieces on the table, No flimsy or misaligned in-feed/out-feed tables, No forcing the saw, No forcing the work piece. Use common sense and you will be fine. 



The Delta in the OP is a great saw for a great price. If I were closer I'd pick it up myself.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Bluenote38 said:


> A RAS is like using any piece of industrial equipment, it is made to remove material very fast - so be very careful. A South Bend or Minster will kill you or take a finger or hand. A RAS, TS, Shaper, Jointer all can do the same. IF you are afraid of the machine then don't use it. That fear makes it a danger to you and those around you. If you are careless, sloppy, or negligent in your setup, handling, care, maintenance, and operation DO NOT use it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


As I said earlier there will always be those that have decided to make it their life mission to bad mouth certain products.

Most injuries on any tool are self inflicted, not intentionally, to the best of my knowledge only Christine was an evil machine. >


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## Onefreetexan (May 3, 2018)

Oh, my gosh, I have used a Radial Arm saw, with all it’s accessories as my main saw for over 30 yrs... I didn’t realize I was being so foolish...thank you all for enlightening me.


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## Onefreetexan (May 3, 2018)

Sorry, just being sarcastic there.!


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

The second power tool I bought was a used Rockwell Delta 12 inch RAS, paid $150 for it but it was pretty new, I was about 12-13 years old and my shop teacher talked me into buying it because he said they were so much more versatile then a table saw. It is one of the "turret" models where the saw track is mounted in the center of the upper "turret" I trued it up when I got it, some 50 years ago, and it still cuts as square as the day I set it, it is a beast, the only thing I wish it did was cut to 24 inches, I think 18 is as far as it goes, but I used it as my only saw for about 20 some years and still have all my fingers


I wouldn't be without a RAS


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## Mycrossover (May 18, 2018)

hawkeye10 said:


> I have no idea how old this saw is but I wouldn't mind having a good RAS. I had a Sears RAS in the 70's and it was very hard to keep lined up. I would spend an hour setting it up and make 4 or 5 cuts and it would be out of line again. I don't want another one like the Sears saw. :sad2:
> 
> https://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/d/deltaradial-arm-saw/6663392223.html


You should have hung on to it. They were made by Emerson Electric and could never be made safe to whatever company or government standard applied. They will pay $100 for the motor to be shipped back to them in a prepaid box, to disable the saw. That is more than they often go for in Craigslist.Your experience with that saw matches mine but some people love them.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Bigpapaporsche1 (Dec 22, 2019)

I had one of these Radial Arm Saw ( as well has a Craftsman)and hated it. The Hand Crank, to adjust the Blade Height was a Pain, wrong location. Comparing this RAS to a Craftsman is no contest. IMO, the Craftsman had more Power and the Hand Crank (Located underneath) was in a much better location! 
I would however caution everyone that any RAS is probably the most dangerous Tool in the shop, I sold mind because of the Safety Issues.


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## kb7kuh (Aug 17, 2018)

I have owned 3 Craftsman RAS and very rarely had to do any adjustments. The last one I got and am currently using it now I paid 60.00 bucks for and had to make a new table for it.


Craftsman on line says they have the replacement tables, but they don't. The table was pretty easy to make.


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

Fellow woodworkers, friends, co-forum members who like or dislike me,

An RAS used by experienced is a dangerous tool as is a sharp chisel. There is nothing inherently wrong with an RAS. 

What is wrong with an RAS is the marketing. Yes the RAS can do everything that they say it can. Yes, the RAS can do everything that they say it can and can do it SAFELY.

The RAS is like a Ferrari. In the hands of an experienced driver the Ferrari can easily achieve 120 MPH on many roads. If the driver of the Ferrari is not experienced, only disaster will result. 

An RAS is similar in that the woodworker needs to understand what is going on and proceed with caution. Doing everything that they say it can by an unexperienced woodworker can be dangerous and detrimental to one's appendages. I would NEVER recommend an RAS to a person new to woodworking. It is one of those, Yeah you can but you shouldn't until you gain the experience. 

I shudder when I think of some of the cuts that I made on my RAS while I was stupid. I was lucky but I also understood the physics.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Experienced VS Newbie .......*

How does a Newbie get experience? Just like every other machine that has high speed spinning cutters, a learning curve is needed. How do you learn to use a RAS? Well, by using it and reading the owner's manual, watching the "legitimate" RAS You Tubers demonstrate it's operation. 



Finally, it is different in it's operating physics than most other saws, in that the blade is above the workpiece which requires the operator to manually hold it securely down and inwards toward against the fence.


This is especially important when ripping and the nose of the blade guard MUST be used to press lightly against the workpiece to hold it down since the upward rotation of the teeth tends to lift it up. The physics of cutting rotation MUST be understood when using a router table as well. Feed it from the wrong direction and you have instant kickback. 



Not enough emphasis is made of this any place I has seen, owner's manuals or otherwise. I learned this by using the tools and sometimes found out first hand with close calls. Having training would be great, but woodworking is unlike racing a Ferrari, where we start out typically alone in our shops with no one there to offer advice. Ferrari drivers get loads of training before they get to race the multi million dollar vehicles.


Notice the use of the nose of the blade guard AND the hold down roller I used when I need to straight line rip hundreds of feet of 1" Cypress boards for a barn door project:
 




The roller made it slightly more difficult to complete the feed at the very end of the board, but a thinner push stick was used that fit under the roller. The boards were 14 ft long and there was just no other way to get them straight efficiently, so we made a 28 ft long table just for the project:









So, based on my years of experience using a RAS, I was able to accomplish this operation safely. :vs_cool:


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## NoThankyou (Mar 21, 2018)

" So, based on my years of experience using a RAS, I was able to accomplish this operation safely. "

Yes. You, I and many others are the lucky ones. There are also so many that aren't so lucky.

There is one other problem with the Craftsman RAS. The early '70s models have a plastic clamshell motor cover. The anti kick back pawl and the blade cover use a molded fin on the clamshell cover to anchor everything in place. I don't remember how but the plastic fin got broken off and made the pawl useless.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

woodnthings said:


> How does a Newbie get experience? Just like every other machine that has high speed spinning cutters, a learning curve is needed. How do you learn to use a RAS? Well, by using it and reading the owner's manual, watching the "legitimate" RAS You Tubers demonstrate it's operation.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Bill I ordered one of those Oshlun 5 degree negative hook blades you posted on some other RAS post, man it is like a whole different machine, it has never cut this good in the 50 years I have owned it


Thanks for the heads up


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I took my own advice also ....*



Catpower said:


> Bill I ordered one of those Oshlun 5 degree negative hook blades you posted on some other RAS post, man it is like a whole different machine, it has never cut this good in the 50 years I have owned it
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up



Glad to hear your success story with it since I already received mine, just haven't had time or a need to install it yet. I'll git after it ASAP. I said I owned other Oshlun blades, a 6" and 8" dados sets and found them good quality. Think the blades have C4 carbide, if I recall the product description correctly. That's the best quality there is AFAIK.
Yup, sure enough it says so right here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XREDZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Morogany (Feb 24, 2017)

Just my opinion here, but I feel radial arm saws are antiquated machines and have no place in the modern shop. When I first started at the shop I work at we had a RAS and it was mostly used to get lumber down to workable lengths. They are large machines that perform a single function. That saw, an old dewalt if I recall went to the scrap yard. We’ve since had many other saws (omga, festool, etc). Our saw of choice these days are dewalt sliders.
Some will disagree and that’s fine, to each is own. Space is at a premium in the average home shop, and to tie up space with a fixed base RAS just doesn’t make sense to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

A Delta 12" RAS IS an excellent saw. It's on a turret and very accurate. Can't say much for any other saw had a new 10 Delta saw and got a used1w" Delta saw. Better saw, more accurate and consistant....Bob


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