# Tung Oil FINISH on headboard



## wbhudson (Aug 20, 2012)

Hi all! I have just completed a headboard for my room. It's 5 1/2' tall x 6 1/2T wide. I stained it with Minwax red mahogany , and am pleased with the results. I have used Tung Oil Finish (not pure oil) on a fireplace mantle before and really liked the finish. I would like to use it on the headboard, but was sort of worried that the oil may leech out onto the sheets. My question is, will this happen? And, should I try using another finish to get the same result? This is my first post on Woodworking Talk, so I really appreciate anyone's advice!


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Once it's cured (dry), that's not likely to happen.













 







.


----------



## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Which finish (by name brand) do you intend to use? Many finishing products have names that are not even close to what that name would imply. Some tung oil finishes are only a wiping varnish, nary a drop of tung oil. In that case, your finish would cure quite well, and no problem with oil on the sheets. I suggest you take a quick look at this article by Bob Flexner for a more detailed explanation. I also suggest if you want to go with a wiping varnish, make your own...a 50/50 mixture of the varnish of your choice with mineral spirits/paint thinner would be just as good.


----------



## wbhudson (Aug 20, 2012)

its Formby's tung oil finish, which is not 100% oil. I used it on a mantle and it looks really good. I like that it lets the wood grain show through so well, and likewise the texture. How long will the curing process take for the finish? Unfortunately it is rather rainy in Raleigh this week. 


I plan on mounting some touch lighting in the piece too, with some directional deck lighting (fingers crossed). I really appreciate the advice, and the warm welcome!:smile:


----------



## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

Formby's is 70% MS, and the varnish is a "soya/tung oil alkyd resin" formula (MSDS). The only oil in it is what was cooked into the varnish, and it will cure completely. The curing process may well take several weeks to be complete, but I would think it would be cured enough to handle within 24 hours. In any case, you have no worries about oil leeching out of it. That should be a very nice finish for a headboard.


----------



## wbhudson (Aug 20, 2012)

Fred, Thank you for the information about Formby's. I have applied one coat tonight. I really like the way it brings out the grain in the wood. I know that this varnish doesn't get really shiny. If I wanted to shine up the wood a little more, is there something I could use for a nice/protective finish? I would like have the wood grain really show through. I really appreciate your help!


----------



## wbhudson (Aug 20, 2012)

Should I use steel wool on the piece? Thanks!!


----------



## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

I'm not sure what to suggest, my experience with this type of thing has always been going the other way: reducing sheen. It is possible to get more gloss on finishes, sometimes. They can be polished to a higher sheen with very fine abrasives (rottenstone, pumice, very high grit paper). But with wiping varnish, the coats are very thin (thick 3 coats of wiping varnish = 1 coat of brushed varnish, roughly) and you may get some unwanted results like sand-through. You could also top coat with something; more varnish, shellac, or the wax mentioned earlier, but that may also bring some unwanted results in appearance. I tend to shy away from steel wool, in the past I've had tiny shards of the wool get imbedded in the finish and develop a rusty appearance, but a rough fiber pad might do it. If you've worked up a scrap piece for testing, try a couple of approaches and see if they give you want you want.....or someone else may have other different suggestions. But my gut feeling is that the gloss you have is about as good as it will get with that product.


----------



## wbhudson (Aug 20, 2012)

Ill try that out on some scrap for sure. Thanks again


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I wouldn't use steel wool. There are many "wools" that work well, like mineral wools, bronze wool, and Scotch Brite pads. You might try just a thinned wiping version of an interior gloss varnish as a topcoat. I wouldn't use any wax.









 







.


----------



## wbhudson (Aug 20, 2012)

I decided I wanted to try and get a shinier finish. I grabbed some satin rubbing lacquer and was able to get a great finish. I'd like to post a pic, but i have to figure out how first! Thanks for all of the advice gentlemen. 

(Now I need another project to get into some dovetail work)


----------



## slevapaul (Aug 25, 2012)

Tung oil is mostly used by many people for the furniture finishing. It gives the perfect finishing to the furniture with the min wax. Furniture need the proper finishing to give the eventual look to it.


----------

