# Best table saw under $250



## djonesax

Hello, my name is David and this is my first post to this forum. 

I recently purchased the craftsman 24884 table saw.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00924884000P?vName=&cName=&sName=

I got it because it was on sale. It was a floor model that had been dropped and the base was cracked but it didn’t affect the saw at all. It just looks bad. The saw was 179.00 and I bought it for $118.00.

When I got it home and started using is on a book case that I was building I started feeling a little uneasy about the quality of the extensions and the fence. When the extensions are out they are flimsy and don’t line up square without some manual adjustment.

Also, the blade it not true and it leaves deep saw marks when I rip boards. Marks so deep I can’t sand them out easily.

It could be that since it was a floor model that it just wasn’t put together well.

I was thinking about returning it to sears and purchasing one of these models.

21805
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921805000P?vName=&cName=&sName=

21806
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921806000P?vName=&cName=&sName=

I was also considering the Ryobi BTS21
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100593232

I want to build my mother a butcher block and I am definitely looking so something strong enough to rip hardwood.

Also, I want something that if I were to rip a piece of plywood at the max rip capacity that I will get a square cut.


Thanks in advance for all your help,

David


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## End Grain

The very first thing one has to do with any newly acquired table or miter saw is to square up and true up the blade, especially at the 90 degree point. It must be done accurately and correctly so that the wood moves into and past the blade with a minimal amount of effort and resistance. This also ensures the minimal kerf and a dead-on accurate cut. If it's off just a tiny bit, no matter how expensive the saw or blade on it, the operator begins to push the material harder into the blade, cuts become jagged, the wood jams up against the fence and gets burn marks on the blade side, the risk of kickbacks increases exponentially and the motor bogs down. More important than the price one pays for a saw is the trueness of the blade's settings, followed by use of the correct and sharp blade. Just my 2 cents.


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## knotscott

All of the new saws you mentioned are fairly poor quality. They're small, light, loud, unreliable, sloppy, more dangerous, not all that fun to use, and have poor resale value. They're the type of saws many of us start with and outgrow very quickly.

In that price range I'd think a decent used cast iron contractor saw would be the best bang for the buck. It'll have a cast iron table that's 27" deep, and will have steel or cast iron extension wings that bring the overall width to ~ 40". It'll also have a belt drive induction motor hanging off the back. These will weigh ~ 250# and can be upgraded, updated, retrofitted, and accessorized with many standard sized interchangeable parts to make them a pretty nice saw. Craigslist, Ebay, and classifieds should have them. Look for Delta, Jet, Craftsman, Ridgid, etc.

Full size contractor saw








If used has no appeal, I'd suggest saving more money and getting at least a Craftsman 21829 for ~ $350 on sale, and better yet a new hybrid or contractor saw....starting at ~ $400 on sale.

CMan 21829


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## djonesax

Hmm... I was hoping to be able to find a decent one for under $250.00

What about this JET?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100399037


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## djonesax

End Grain,

How do I square and true the blade. I didn’t get a manual with this saw, it's being mailed to me. The blade does have a wobble to it.


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## firefighteremt153

David, listen to the other guys on here about setting up your saw correctly from the first getgo. I have learned from past mistakes and lots of ruined wood that the extra effort it takes to set the blade square is well worth the effort and will save you money and body parts in the future. I also agree with Scott about the quality of the NEW saws you were looking at purchasing. Yeah, everyone wants the brand new tool with the warranty and you want to be the one to put all the scrathes on the new tool but don't let quality get in the way of this. I started out with an old Skill 10" bench top table saw and just thought it was the greatest thing ever b/c I finally had a table saw. Well in the long run, I paid X amout of dollars for the saw and God knows how much I paid for extra wood that I had to buy b/c the saw wouldn't cut true. Plus that saw you've purchased has a very small table and I think with a little bit of use, you will out grow it very quickly and wish you had something larger. I upgraded my saw to the Ridgid 2412 and although it's not a Powermatic cabinet saw, I still get great results from it and with me just being a hobbiest it's all I need right now. Not sure of your location but i'm in the Atlanta area and you can find my exact saw on craigslist everyday for 200.00 on up. Ok, enough rambling, good luck in your decision and happy woodworking. Here's a pic of a couple butcher blocks I made for family. Jeremy


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## bigredc

I've only been at this a little under 2 years. I got a $100 dollar Ryobe to start. Then once I realized it wasn't a passing fad I went and got a good used saw last spring. I learned pretty much everything right here on this site. I still have a long way to go. I'll try to brief and hope I don't miss much.You have to square the blade to the miter slot. That's were you start. It took me a few hours the first time. You put something in the slot so it sticks above. Then use something strait and parallel to fill in as much as you can between the blade and the slot. I did it to the point where I could use a feeler gauge. Take your time. If it's not perfect you need to loosen the bolts that mount the table to the base. Once the slot and blade are perfect you do the same with the fence. Also a good blade makes a huge difference. It's like night and day. Once you learn how to do that, if you get a used saw you'll know what to with it. I have a 70 year old Delta. It cuts perfect every time. Look for a cast iron table. The heavier the table and saw the less the vibration. 
Chris


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## firefighteremt153

David, here is a link to help you out with getting your saw square and true. Hope it helps http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/tsalign.html


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## knotscott

djonesax said:


> Hmm... I was hoping to be able to find a decent one for under $250.00
> 
> What about this JET?
> http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100399037


That little Jet probably represents one the best of those little "benchtop" type saws with universal motors because it at least has a belt drive. I haven't tried one personally. It's likely only a marginal step up from what you have, and offers many of the same disadvantages. It still has a loud universal motor and is still a pretty small saw...I think it's in the neighborhood of 17" deep, which leaves just a couple of inches to operate in front of the blade. It's also a tad over 70#, which will move and tip very easily if you cut any big boards. It's still made of fairly weak light materials which limit it's longterm reliability and accuracy. 

Sorry if I seem so negative on these little benchtops or benchtops with legs. It WILL cut wood mind you. But what I'm trying to avoid is having you looking for another saw in 6 months, and become one of the "voices of experience" while posting to another newbie to get a bigger saw. :huh:


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## End Grain

djonesax said:


> End Grain,
> 
> How do I square and true the blade. I didn’t get a manual with this saw, it's being mailed to me. The blade does have a wobble to it.


First things first and let's see if we can't get your saw to function properly.

Unplug the saw and wrap the cord up. Do not plug it in or attempt to use it!!! Seriously!

Take some duct tape and put it along the blade's edge so that you can grab and wiggle it without cutting or nicking yourself. Next, you must figure out exactly *why* the blade wobbles. Is the saw angle adjustment lever down in the front of the saw nice and tight? Check to see that it is tight and set to 90 degrees. Is the nut securing the blade onto the arbor loose? Is the nut tight but the washer that follows the nut and applies pressure onto the blade missing altogether? Could a spacer be missing? Is the undermount that holds the entire blade and arbor assembly loose? Are there any visible machine screws, perhaps hex head ones, that may be loose? Wiggle the blade with your hands and look to see why it's moving and where the movement occurs. You said it was dropped so perhaps something in the saw's frame is cracked or broken.

Take your time and try to establish what may be loose, missing or broken.

You cannot square up or true up the blade if there is any movement in it. Further, the saw is a disaster-waiting-to-happen and a mega-danger to you and others if the blade is loose even a tiny bit. If you can find out the problem and get the blade secure, then we can walk you through the tuning process. *BigRedC* already gave you a good idea.

Let us know how you fared with the first and IMO the most critical step. It may be a systemic problem that's not readily fixable because of the drop in which case I'd pack it up and bring it back for credit towards a better and perfect one.

Good luck, *djonesax*!


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## mayday3374

david. I own the 21805 craftsman and i would say do not waste the money.. There are many shortcomings to this saw and in general all the saws you will come across in the 200 dollar range. this is my first table saw and i will tell you, i have completed only a few projects so far and i really need to upgrade the table saw. ripping plywood on this saw is just not practical and it is dangerous. the saw does not have enough weight or table surface to properly support the plywood, which contributes to the deep saw marks when rip cutting. the fence can be adjusted pretty accurately but there is some runout on my blade that i have to contend with and try to adjust for. the miter gauge is a piece of garbage, and the miter tracks on 2 of the 3 craftsman models you are looking at are not 3/4 grooves, which means all of your standard jigs and sleds that you would want for a table saw cannot be used on these saws. the saws have enough power to cut through just about anything, and with a good blade, they slice right through hardwood without a hiccup, but be prepared to spend alot of time squaring up your cuts with a router or planer after making a pass with one of these tablesaws. even as a weekend warrior, if you are planning to do some fine cutting every now and then, i would try to save up and at least double your budget for the TS. my next saw is going to be a big investment as i cannot stand trying to do good work on a poor quality saw any longer.


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## Paul K

Adding my two cents, I'd agree with all the above pretty much, but want to add some things. The saws you are looking at are sort of what I would call "job site" saws. Not great saws, but if you need to haul them there and do a few cuts that are a little more exact than what you do with a chop saw or circular saw, these fill the bill. IF that is what you want, maybe they are ok, though for a bit more money, you get a much better saw. But if you want a saw that you are going to leave in the Garage, or basement, or wherever you are going to do your woodworking, get a used saw. Can you buy a unisaw for 200? Yes, but you probably won't find one easily and it will need work that you probably aren't ready to give it. But you might well find a used good contractors saw on CL that will do fine. 
As to the adjustments, Yes, you do have to make the blade parallel to the miter slots, or you can use the miter gauge, which is bad. So you have to take, ideally with some sort of dial micrometer or SOME way that you can be fairly certain you are really accurately fixing the front of the blade to be the same distance from the slot as the back of the blade. How do you do this? Well you have to read your manual, and hopefully it will give you some indication on how you loosen the saw carriage under the table, or conversely the table top from the carriage, (i don't know the craftsman saws well, but remember in my youth having a couple, but that was years ago). Then you adjust it with light taps and then tighten it back up. 
but I am not sure that this was the reason for the burning on the wood. You didn't say if it was with the miter gauge or with the rip fence. It is true that the rip fence should indeed be parallel with the slot, and with the blade. It might well be out of alignment too, and that is probably adjustable. But looking at the fence, I suspect that it isn't very rigid. Pushing hardwood thru a saw that has a fence that is not parallel to the blade is hard, will cause lots of burning, and is, as others said, dangerous. If you find the fence flexing, you probably can’t change that. You might consider NOT buying a saw right now, if you want to save money, and instead see if there is a good class offered at a night school around you. There you can use good equipment hopefully and practice your skills and see what you want to do. Sometimes other classmates might have lines on good used equipment too. I have found and bought good cabinets saws, (unisaws, PM 66’s etc for many years, for less than $200. But they are harder to find, and certainly easier on the east coast than on the west. Take your time, and you can probably find a good deal, if you don’t hurry and take the first one. 
Good luck


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## djonesax

OK, I feel like I would be doing my self a great injustice if I were to keep the saw I have... 

If I were to increase my budget. It's not that I can’t afford a more expensive saw; it's more that I thought I could get a decent one for what I want to do for under 250. If I can’t then I cant and it's that simple and I have to spend more money. I haven’t found any used unisaw’s for under $1000 and of the used saws that I find they are usually very old and with not much information on them for me to research. There are saws all over Craig’s List but I am unsure of what is a good deal or even a good saw. Here are the 3 cities that I can drive to. I live in Greensboro, Raleigh is an hour away and Charlotte is 1 1/2 hours away.

Greensboro,
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=table+saw&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max

Raleigh,
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=table+saw&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max

Charlotte,
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=table+saw&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max

Not saying I'll run out and buy one but if there are any in those lists that you all would suggest it would help me understand what I should be on the look out for.

Also, I went to sears today and looked at the Craftsman 21829 and all though I feel like there are too many gadgets on it. I really like the fence system compared to the saw I have. Also, I like that it is still portable. I don’t have room for a HUGE saw and what ever I purchase I need to be able to at least be able to drag it different area of the garage or drive way.

Thanks, for being patient with me.


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## jeffreythree

Also, don't pass up some old iron. I recently bought this Delta Homecraft completely rebuilt for $200. There was one on ebay that came with the Homecraft jointer, sander, and drill press that went for 49.99 in Charlotte. Though it only uses an 8" blade, it cuts way better than my previous contractor saw.


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## djonesax

also, what is the deal with the 30 inch max rip on most saws. I am sure there is a good reason why most saws max out at 30 inches but why? why not 36 inches?


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## End Grain

*djonesax*, I hope you when you bring it back, you'll get a refund or at least a store credit. But, don't be too surprised if and when the K-Mart groupies masquerading as Sears employees tell you to go pound salt. _It simply ain't your daddy's Sears no more._

Seriously, brace yourself for what may prove to be a real knock down, drag out fight.

Good luck! :thumbsup:


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## knotscott

djonesax said:


> also, what is the deal with the 30 inch max rip on most saws. I am sure there is a good reason why most saws max out at 30 inches but why? why not 36 inches?


No reason I know of....some are 36", but more are 30"....some less. 24" will let you rip a 4x8 sheet. Some offer long rails to 50" or 52" as an option which allows you to crosscut a sheet in half. Some have rails that are easy to slide to the right to gain capacity if need be, but be aware that it takes up more room.

Saws like these old 10" Emerson made Craftsman contractor saws can become very nice saws, and often go in the $100-$200 range. They typically have a 1 to 1-1/2hp motor with adequate power. The guts are essentially the same as the current Ridgid. The fences can be upgraded to just about any standard aftermarket fence, the wings are a standard length and can be upgraded. Pulleys and belts can be upgraded, and the motors can be changed easily if need be. I'd insist on seeing pics before driving far to look at one. Jet, Grizzly, Delta, Ridgid, Woodtek, DeWalt, Bridgewood, Powermatic, or General International are other brands I'd consider if they show up...they're all about the same size and power, and have similar designs...look for full size cast iron (27" deep) and a belt driven induction motor....some surface rust is ok and is easily removed. I'd probably avoid any that aren't 10" because blades, accessories, and parts are harder to come by, but if a creampuff falls in your lap for $20, grab it.

Here's a current Craftsman 22114 hybrid made by Orion that has a 52" Biese type GI fence installed, plus it has a large extension table with router cutout. $550 is over your stated budget, but it's a nice setup for that price, and they might even take less for it.


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## bigredc

I looked through all the saws There are a lot. I narrowed it down to these 4. One of these is old but it has a cast iron top and only $200. It might be a little rough for you. But I bet it would clean up nice. There is a craftsman for $550. I don't know what it normally sells for. I'd look into that. You can get a nice new Delta, Rigid, and Jet saw in the $450-$500 range. That might be the way to go. I've been waiting for a Unisaw to show up myself. I see them for $700 all the time. That's more than I want to spend. This one Craftsman cabinet saw is nice but they want $1000. See what the Hitachi sells for regular, it might be a good deal. I don't know anything about Hitachi. Maybe the other guy's will look at these and give there opinion.
Chris 
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/560690141.html
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/555517084.html
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/547141200.html
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/593256850.html


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## djonesax

End Grain, I totaly understand. I made sure to ask if I could return it even if I used it and they said that if I was unhappy with it even if it was used I could bring it back within 30 days. vbmenu_register("postmenu_25360", true);


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## djonesax

The first one, the cast iron table saw, I think you're right in that it might be a little rough for me. Being new to this I think I'd like to start with something a little newer. Maybe later when my table saw tinker skill level increases, I can help a friend purchase something like this and then I can get the good deal feeling vicariously. 

The Hitachi sells for 499.99 at Lowes. Might be a good deal for me.

I am pretty sure I saw that Craftsman for 1100.00 at sears yesterday. That would be a sweet machine but I wonder if I would have room for it. I saw it in sears and thought wow, compared to their other saws, this is a real saw. 

The Jet would be nice but too big and probably overkill for a weekend warrior like myself.

I think my budget just went up to about $450.00+. I did the same thing with my miter saw. I started cheap and ended up with a dewalt 12" double bevel compound miter saw for $450.00. Absolutely no regrets, I love it and use it all the time. I even extended my work bench and counter sunk it so the saw table was level with the rest of the work bench.

So I understand what to look for in a used saw. if I decided to purchase one new with a warranty and such. Of the saws that are available at home depot, lowes and sears. Are there any that you all would suggest?

Here are some that I see online; I know that there are more in the stores.

I like the Craftsman 21829 for is portability
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921829000P

Hitachi
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=159372-46578-C10FL&lpage=none

Delta
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=237665-32764-36-979&lpage=none


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## knotscott

The Ridgid TS3650/TS3660 is now down to $467. I have a 10% HD coupon good until 3/16 that you're welcome too (brings it to ~ $420). It's a good saw for the money, and huge improvement to the benchtops. 

The Hitachi is a hybrid which has the advantages that come from having the motor tucked inside, but the the wings, the fence, the legs, and wheels are not as good as the Ridgid's IMHO. Still a good saw and huge improvement though if you want it. I've also got a Lowe's 10% coupon good until 3/6 if you want that one, but we're running out of time to get it to you. 

The Jet Workshop 708100 (pictured in one of my responses above) is also a hybrid within your new budget. I like it better than the Hitachi, but that's just my opinion.

$450 should buy just about any used contractor saw you stumble into and maybe even a cabinet saw. That Craftsman 22114 on Craigslist is very similar to the $1100 22124 you mentioned...has even more rip capacity and a better extension table. Those are very stable saws with cabinet mounted trunnions, great fence, and good dust collection. You might try offering him your $450 and see what he says...that'd be a sweet setup if you have room.


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## End Grain

djonesax said:


> End Grain, I totaly understand. I made sure to ask if I could return it even if I used it and they said that if I was unhappy with it even if it was used I could bring it back within 30 days. vbmenu_register("postmenu_25360", true);


Smart man! Glad to hear that you thought enough to cover your back on this one. Go no further with it. Take it back and take a look-see at some of the nifty table saws these good folks are recommending. Also, you might want to check around locally for retiring woodworkers looking to sell off their equipment. In-store deals are always out there so be patient and look around for a good one. That 10% $299 No Pay No Interest one from Home Depot is my occasional salvation. Try not to ignore some of the on-line ones as well, especially where free shipping is offered. These folks here can tell you what models are good investments. :yes: 

If, at some time, you'd ever consider a Bosch portable contractor's table saw like the discontinued TS4000-07, I can shed a lot of light on that particular model as I've owned one for years. It's my mainstay. Matter-of-fact, I wrote a rather lengthy evaluation of it on here a while back.

Someday, I hope to have the physical room to have a larger cast iron table saw in my shop/garage.

Happy hunting there *djonesax*!


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## djonesax

knotscott, in my area the The Ridgid TS3650/TS3660 is $550.00+. Did you look that up online? What is your zipcode, maybe tyhe prices are different per area?


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## knotscott

Folks on the Ridgid site have been talking about it as if it's a current price nationwide. You might try calling a few stores and asking if it's a saw you're interested in.


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## djonesax

Thank you all for the advice and patience to answer all my questions.

I think I have settled on the Rigid TS3660. I have read tons of reviews and this seems like a great saw for the price. When I start getting into this kind of money I prefer to buy new just incase something goes wrong. I wouldn’t have a problem spending $200 on a used saw but because I am so new to table saws, I think new is best for me. Perhaps if I out grow this one I will look for a good used one like that craftsman on craigslist. Although, unless I upgrade from weekend warrior status I doubt I will out grow this saw for a long time. 

I do have one final question though. If I ever had the urge to have a longer rip capability or even just to have a larger work area. Can I extend this table in a way that I can still use the same fence? Like maybe a work bench with an MDF top and a piece of angle iron for the fence to ride on?

Knotscott, thanks for the coupon offer. No need to send it though I found one online. Incase any body is interested I found this coupon for HD for 10% off and it’s good until 3/11/2008
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/emails/9/GO/Images/Go_Coupon.jpg


Thanks,

David


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## djonesax

By the way that is an harbor freight coupon but supposedly HD will honor competitors coupons. I read on the rigid forum that some else has done this.


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## djonesax

I called the HD store and they have it for $549.00 and they'll honor the coupon which brings it to $494.00. Too bad I cant get it for 467 plus 10% off, that would be nice.


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## knotscott

djonesax said:


> I called the HD store and they have it for $549.00 and they'll honor the coupon which brings it to $494.00. Too bad I cant get it for 467 plus 10% off, that would be nice.


I think HD has some price guarantees, so if their price drops to the $467 mark that we're hearing about, take your receipt back and have them credit you the difference....either that or drag the beast in and park in their doorway for them to deal with, and tell them you're just going to return then and buy a new one! :laughing:


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## bigredc

Dave
You can do whatever your imagination can think of as far as extensions. I have side extensions on mine, and my work bench is lined up as an out feed. You can buy stuff, but the way I look at it, it's good practice, and fun building stuff for your shop. There are all kinds of jigs you will end up building. You'll want a panel sled eventually. That saw opens up a whole new world, It did for me. There is ton's of stuff on line to learn from. You tube has lots of pod casts on woodworking. You just do a search for woodworking. Wear safety glasses, buy a few pair when you pick up the saw. That way if you can't find a pair there's no excuse not to wear them. Have fun, and be careful. 
Chris


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## knotscott

djonesax said:


> I called the HD store and they have it for $549.00 and they'll honor the coupon which brings it to $494.00. Too bad I cant get it for 467 plus 10% off, that would be nice.


Print this and take it with you to HD... *Select tools down 20% (30% w coup) at the BORG (Ad scan here)*. Or this one (.pdf) that came from the Ridgid website... *March Race for Savings 20% RIDGID.*

*Sale starts 03/06/08*
*Sale Ends 03/12/08*


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## djonesax

OK... So, I get there and the price is actually 467.00 despite the person on the phone telling me 549.00. BUT they wouldn’t take my 10% coupon because it was printed from the internet and not a "real coupon". So I bought it anyway but left it there to pick up later tonight. I was on my lunch break. I drove to another HD store and asked if they would take the coupon. The manager said no but to be nice she would discount it 10% anyway. She told me to stop by the store after I pick it up from the other stire and she would return it and resell it to me for 10% less. Sweet. Very nice lady. So I got my saw for $420 after all. I'm excited to get it home, set it up and use it.


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## knotscott

Congrats to you! This whole class of saw is so much more substantial than what you had and were looking at. I'm not usually much of a Ridgid cheerleader, but that's a good price for a nice saw... I really don't think you can do much better for $420. At that price, it'll hold value well too. Heck, you could probably use it for three or four years, and resell it for $300-$350 pretty fast...the end cost should be lower than the cheapy $200 benchtops in the longrun. Take good care of it. With a good blade, good alignment, and basic care it should serve you well for a lifetime. There's also some room to grow...the miter gauge and the fence are standard size, so many aftermarkets versions are available should you ever decide to upgrade in the future.... Check out this rig!

Setup tips ...be sure to browse the Ridgid site for the skinny on getting your Lifetime Service Agreement registered properly.

Be safe and enjoy!


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## djonesax

ok, so I stopped by the other HD store to do the whole refund and re purchase thing to get an additional 10% off. The lady made a mistake and gave me to much of a disount. $178 instead of the $47 she was supposed to give me. I tried to tell her 3 times that she made a mistake but she kept telling me I was the one whoe didnt understand while being rude and condescending. She even got a manager to approve the transaction. So I figured after trying to tell her 3 times and her being rude to me on top of that, I'll take the $178. That brought the total saw purchase down to $319.88 with tax.

No complaints, here.


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## djonesax

Oh and also they almost gave me a 3650 and not a 3660. I'm gald I checked before I left the store.


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## dbhost

Just for some clarification about the original point of the post. As far as the budget range you were pointed in, there are some fine saws for what they are in that price range. Most of the answers here were along the lines of "if it isn't a high end cabinet saw it's crap", or similar. Which is a fine and legitimate point of view, but somewhat flawed. The saws you were looking at were either bench top, or contractor type saws. If you have nothing but tons of money, and space, not to mention 220v power routed into your shop, a big cabinet saw sure is nice to work on. But I can tell you, at least two of the saws you mentioned in your first post (which are really the same saw with different color plastics and name badges) are once set up, nice cutting solid running saws...

Take a good look at the Craftsman 21806 http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921806000P?vName=&cName=&sName and the Ryobi BTS21 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100593232 and you will see they are essentially the same saw with different color plastic, different paint on the table, and a different name plate. 

I have had my BTS21 for less than 2 months now, but I have already clocked about 24 working hours on it, and have loaned it to a friend for him to finish up a cabinet project. After a short setup that is well documented in the manual, we both found this saw to run strong and straight running through pine, birch, oak, solid, ply, and of course lots of MDF. 

If you read the reviews on both saws, yeah there is going to be a bad review, every product should have them, but they are essentially a very good contractor type saw. 

I am sure you will be happy with your Ridgid, and I would have totally been all over buying one myself if I could have swung that sort of deal... But just remember, just because you have the expensive brand names doesn't mean you are a great woodworker. That comes from you, not your tools...


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## djonesax

I totally agree. I was thinking actually that the topic of this post should be changed to not be so misleading. Those saws are probably totally fine for a lot of projects and I struggled between the rigid 3660 and those two saws because I wanted the portability that the Rigid doesn’t offer. I also dabble in real-estate and wanted something that I could take to a job site. I read the reviews on all those saws and if you can get past all the negative feedback there are some good reviews scattered in there and also some back to reality reviews. For instance the saw that I bought initially, was what it was. A $149.00 saw. One shouldn’t expect all the features of a $500.00 saw in a $149.00 saw. As a job site saw cutting molding and other simple stuff, I’m sure my $149.00 would have been fine. The Ryobi got pretty good reviews.

When I got to thinking about some of the projects that I wanted to do at home in the future is when I decided to go with the Rigid. I will use this saw at home way way way more than at any job site.

Heck, I may still purchase one of those others down the road so that I can throw it in a truck and go. For now my miter saw does all I need.


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## bigredc

I can't find a picture of the 3660. I found the 3650. Do they look the same? You got one great deal. Do you know to wax your table and fence? It makes a huge difference. I wax all my power tool surfaces.


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## djonesax

It's funny, even on the rigid website the model number is still 3650. They do look the same, though. I beleive they have made some improvements to the table legs. But other than that I dont think there are many differences. 

Here is a link to another thread about this same topic
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15249


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## Davet

djonesax

You are gonna love that saw, Nice choice!
I have the ts 2400 which is the portable saw Ridgid makes.
The Rigid forum is great site for advice on that
particular saw. as here, they are a great bunch over there.

http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/index.php


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## djonesax

OK, well I got the saw put together and finally finished my bookcase. This saw compared to my original craftsman is a monster. In a good way. The one thing that struck me the most, other than the stability and heft was how quite it ran. 

The blade was square right out of the box. 

There were a few places in the instructions that could have been clearer but for the most part they were easy to read and understand.

Also, it is amazing how easily 323lbs move using the herculift system. In the store the system wasn’t installed properly and it didn’t work well. So I was pleasantly surprised when I got it assembled.

6.5 hours is what it took me and a friend to set it up. From looking at the parts in the box I would never have expected it to take that long. If I had to do it again I could do it much faster, of course. The nice thing about having to put it together is that you know exactly how to break it down, if you need to repair something.

Anyway thanks everyone for all the help. I'm sure this is the first of many threads for me on this forum. 

Thanks,

David


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## RJAngel

David,

Good choice with the new saw.
I also upgraded from the same Sears TS to the Ridgid 3660 on Saturday.
Mine is half assembled to the point where I need a friends assist to flip it over.

Regarding the Sears saw, replacing the stock blade with a thin-kerf blade did help the underpowered saw, somewhat. I won't miss it though..

Good luck with yours,
Ron


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## andyellen

Consider eBay COUPONS when making a major purchase (such as a saw). I bought 2 10% Lowe's coupons (single use barcoded) for $3.00 when I bought my Delta 36-979 contractor saw. Dropped the price of the saw to under $400.

With the other stuff I bought it saved me $90.

Be careful, though. Lowe's would not take the 20% Home Depot coupons that the sellers stated Lowe's would match


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## CNCRob

Hello, I just found this site last night because I was facing the same issues as the orginal poster. I orginally had a budget of around $150 so I puchased this table saw http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Table+Saws thinking it would suit my needs. Boy was I wrong. I then set out to find a table saw with a budget of $250. I went to all the local stores that sold table saws and looked around online. I finely figured out I would probably have to pay at least $400 to $500 to get one that fit all my needs. I went to the local Home Depot yesturday and seen two I liked, The Ridgid Model TS2400LS and the Ryobi Model BTS21, I was doing a search last night to figure out which one would fit my needs best. Which is how I came across this website. I actually found this thead from yahoo. After reading this thread from start to finish I decided to take the Craftsman one back to Sears and buy the Ridgid Model TS2400LS this morning. I would have like to have had the larger stationary Ridgid model they sold, It wasn't that much more money but I just didn't have the room in my shop. I used the *March Race for Savings 20% RIDGID.* link posted knotscott (thanks knotscott) and printed out the paper to take to HD. I also had a 10% coupon I took. I didn't figure they would honor both, but I didn't figure it would hurt to try. They did and it saved me nearly $100. I think thats the first time a forum has actually saved me money; especially the first time looking at it. Anyway I love the saw and I think it will be just what I need. Thanks for the great forums and Im now glad to be a member.


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## knotscott

Three things Rob:
1. No pics, it didn't happen!
2. (Congrats if it really did!)
3. My usual commission is 10% of the savings, but I'll wave that if you'll spend it on a decent blade! 

:thumbsup: :laughing:


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## CNCRob

knotscott said:


> Three things Rob:
> 1. No pics, it didn't happen!
> 2. (Congrats if it really did!)
> 3. My usual commission is 10% of the savings, but I'll wave that if you'll spend it on a decent blade!
> 
> :thumbsup: :laughing:


 
Hi knotscott. My wife and I love to take photos. Some how every time I make a large purchase I some how aways get a photo of it :smile: . The first one is of the Craftsman I took back. The other three are of the Ridgid.


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## smitty1967

knotscott said:


> All of the new saws you mentioned are fairly poor quality. They're small, light, loud, unreliable, sloppy, more dangerous, not all that fun to use, and have poor resale value. They're the type of saws many of us start with and outgrow very quickly.


Very, very well said, Scott. You know what Dad always said....you get what you pay for. Here's hoping you don't get what you deserve. 

regards,
smitty


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## knotscott

Nice upgrade from that little Craftsman Rob! It's simply a better class of saw. Bonus points for multiple photos, and extra bonus points for the pic pointing out to other newbs what to avoid! The first saw was a case where spending too little would have cost alot more in the long run. Nicely done. 

Happy Easter


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## djonesax

I went to visit my uncle in-law yesterday for an Easter lunch and he had just finished remodeling his kitchen. He built everything from scratch, cabinets and all. He has this very same saw. He used to have the larger one but sold it to get this portable one because he takes it to job sites. He said it is great saw and has no complaints.


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## mranum

jeffreythree said:


> Also, don't pass up some old iron. I recently bought this Delta Homecraft completely rebuilt for $200. There was one on ebay that came with the Homecraft jointer, sander, and drill press that went for 49.99 in Charlotte. Though it only uses an 8" blade, it cuts way better than my previous contractor saw.




Hey thats my saw

Been using it for 10 years and it works awesome. I replaced the original motor about 5 years ago other than that its been virtually trouble free and I have used the crap out of it.

Never look past tools just because they are old.:thumbsup:


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