# End snipe



## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

Some time ago I experimented with a simple jig to lessen snipe on a special project. Nothing fancy, but it works. Perhaps someone has another/better way. 

https://picasaweb.google.com/Jimmy1943/EndSnipe?authkey=Gv1sRgCMS94vjmhoT6mAE#

Too much text involved to post. (For me, anyway)


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

That is a good idea. The two bys on the edge may not be necessary, however. 
My 36" long sled is similar, but with 1/2" thick oak edges glued to the edge of the sled and maybe a 16th or so above the sled surface. The purpose of the edging, for me, was to stiffen the plywood. 60 grit cloth backed paper is glued to the surface of the sled. I did extend the oak across the trailing edge, but with the sandpaper, I get no slippage.
Mine was built so that I could safely plane to 1/8th +or- a smidge. The length of the sled seems to be a key. The infeed and out feed tables are adjusted dead flat and even with the planer bed. Still, without the sled, snipe does occur. But, not when using the sled. 
Another variable affecting planing results is down side surface. I do a lot of face to face gluing and must have consistently flat surfaces. To that end, a "V" sander is used, rather than a jointer, to assure a dead flat surface to put down on the sled.


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## STAR (Jan 1, 2008)

These are good suggestions but in some cases it might not be necessary to go that extra step. What works for me is to try to not take too much off in the final few passes.

The guys who wind the crank down gung ho style are the ones who get the worst snipe on the same machine, I have found that being a bit slower and with a few more final thinner passes the outcome is a far more professional job.

A combination of the two methods and a sled look to be a far better proposition for me then just the final cranks.

Pete


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## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

Another simpler way (for short pieces) is to lift the trailing end slightly until the leading end gets under the back roller. I believe that 1 roller isn't sufficient to hold the workpiece down properly. You'll notice the length of the snipe coincides with the distance between the front rubber roller and the blade. The purpose I had in mind with the sacrificial "rails" was to have both rubber rollers hold the piece down before it reaches the cutters. Pete is right about the gung ho cranking, but sometimes if you don't crank it enough and there is any dust on the rollers they slip on the workpiece and it won't go thru. (Sometimes I use a thin "pushstick" for that problem) Gene, are there any pics of your sled?


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

I also suffer from snipeitis syndrome and have found a couple of cures as well not cure alls by any means but helpful none the less. First having good infeed and out feed tables help especially with the dewalts. Light passes like mentioned above is a great suggestion and then the lifting the end of the board but I found out I didn't have to lift the board if I shimmed up my infeed and out feed tables a little it did the slight lifting for me I hope others post some helpful ideas I hate snipe I have also learned to make your piece about 8 inches longer and cut off the snipe it's wasteful but if you have to avoid snipe to avoid ruining the piece it's worth it.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

A properly set up jointer, and using proper feed technique, should produce a good pass. Using follower boards, or adjusting where and when to apply pressure will minimize snipe.








 







.


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

Yeah cabinetman is right on follower boards are another great way I forgot about that one thanks cabinetman


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

You are correct about snipe being equal to the rollers but it's not the feed rollers, it's the table rollers and the pressure bar. The pressure bar is roughly over the infeed table roller, as it releases, the board jumps. That's why holding up can help. On stationary planers, you can adjust the bed rollers and reduce snipe to barely a shadow. An issue is that close set bed rollers may cause rough surfaces to stall. If you flatten a face before planing, it isn't a problem. The bed rollers are normally factory set for a compromise. Don't know if they are adjustable on portable planers. There are close tolerances between all the components in a planer, rollers to bed, upper rollers to the pressure bar and knives, all parallel top and bottom and to each other. A fine tuned planer will seldom snipe but most woodworkers leave enough extra, just in case. It's not uncommon for hardwood lumber to have unsquare ends and end checks, leave this as your extra when possible. Plane longer lengths and cut to smaller pieces later. You can back pieces to each other but that also means running around to catch the outfeed rather quickly.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

to help cure snipe, i place the boards in the machine at an angle. i visually extend the bed edges in front of the machine then place the board at the largest angle that will stay inside the machine edges. it reduces significantly on my old delta portable.


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## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

I have no infeed/outfeed tables.


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## vcooney (Dec 21, 2008)

I get snipe in the middle of the board sometimes...does anyone have idea why this would happen?


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## durdyolman (Mar 22, 2013)

vcooney said:


> I get snipe in the middle of the board sometimes...does anyone have idea why this would happen?


 Snipe is caused by 1 of the rollers not touching the board, hence the snipe normally at the ends of the board. Could it be that your board, from the supplier, was thinner in the middle, allowing the roller to lose contact? Or, heaven forbid, a deformed roller?

Jimmy


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

My planer doesn't have any in/outfeed tables, and I never felt I needed them. I just support the back end of a board, until it's almost 1/2 done, then support the front end.
Adjusting the table rollers, and feed roller pressures, gives me no snipe. 
I would hate to plan on cutting 5-6" off each piece of wood I put thru the planner. If I have a warped board, and need to flatten on the jointer first, jointing the long board flat, sometimes, would end up with a very thin board. Cutting to shorter lengths (sizes needed for project) then jointing solves this problem. But, if you need to trim the ends, after the planner, it doesn't work.


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## Hawkeye1434 (Dec 11, 2013)

Wow I have never heard of snipe in the middle of the board, I would take that piece of equipment back if it's newer or take it to a place that can service it at a fair price. Snipe in the middle of the board makes it a useless piece of equipment


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## d_slat (Apr 10, 2012)

vcooney said:


> I get snipe in the middle of the board sometimes...does anyone have idea why this would happen?


Are your feed rollers slipping?


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## vcooney (Dec 21, 2008)

d_slat said:


> Are your feed rollers slipping?


I'll have to check it out And do some test with uneven boards.Thanks guys.


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