# Mission style bed



## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

This is a work in progress...

I'm building a king-size mission style bed from African mahogany, as well as a matching nightstand. I've built a number of these from oak, but when my wife said she wanted to get rid of the queen and get a king I saw an opportunity to do something different. I got quite a bit of African mahogany that has some pretty crazy figure to it.

The bed isn't glued up yet, just dry fit to check everything. Now I have to take it all apart, face plane some burn marks off some of the slats, and use the block plane to chamfer every sharp edge. 

In the past I've always used lots of biscuits to join the headboard/footboard stretchers to the legs but decided to do it right this time and use large mortises and tenons. 

This is also the first time I've used a doweling jig for the slats, which is about the slickest thing ever! Quite a bit of layout, but it couldn't have worked better! 

I use knockdown bedrail fasteners on the bedrails where they connect to the headboard and footboard. 

I'll post pics as the project progresses.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Pics of the whole footboard. Headboard's not built yet...


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

And here's a sample of the wood with teak oil and a couple coats of wipe-on poly.


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## smitty1967 (Feb 24, 2008)

Termite: that looks absolutely _awesome!!!_ I can't wait to see the finished project. I have built several beds, twins and queens....tell me, what are you going to use for side rail joining to the headboard/footboard posts? I've used the knock-down fasteners, never tried a through-bolt. Looks like you're thinking along the same lines, since I see no layout for a bolt hole. 

Just curious, would be interested to know your thoughts.

good work, and keep the pics coming

regards, 
smitty


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Thanks for the kind words Smitty. 

I haven't ever used through bolts for joining the siderails, probably because I started with knockdown hardware on the first bed I ever built. They're super-strong and draw the joint down nice and tight when they're installed at the right depth. People always comment at how rigid the headboard is....No wiggle at the top is what I shoot for. 

If I could go to the garage and not tinker with stuff, I'd be able to get the projects I undertake done a lot faster.


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## jdixon (Nov 21, 2007)

Termite I'm with Smitty, that is be-yoo-te-ful!!!! Man o man make sure you keep the pics coming as I too want to see the finished project. :thumbsup: Building a bed is on my short list of projects for 2009.

John


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Thanks Jdixon. I'll definately keep the pics coming as it progresses. I'm so excited to wipe teak oil on it I can hardly contain myself.


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## joasis (Sep 15, 2006)

Nice work! I love the Mission Style in furniture.....I have a set of plans for a Mission Style grandfather clock...for when I have time.


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

*Omg!*

Very very nice!Didnt realize that type wood came out so nice finished.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Absolutely beautiful.*

It is very impressive as far as furniture design and appeal.
Its even more impressive that you can make 164 perfectly aligned dowel holes. I will never doubt you again. 
I also think its great that you have pics in different stages of development. 
Fantastic job.


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

Thekctermite You have done a great gob. I to am a great fan of mission furniture. My only problem with your work is, Now my wife said "why dont you build that for me like that nice guy did for his wife". Man oh Man I need to start hanging out with idiots so she wont expect so much from me. Great job anyway.


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

One more thing. When you first get marred, you can both sleep in a double bed. As time goes on you move up to a queen size. More time passes and you are in a king size bed. After a few more years you will be sleeping in two separate rooms. It is the natural proses of life. I just thought you needed a heads up.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Thanks for the compliments everyone, and thanks Handyman for the sage advice. The king size mattress was actually purchased for our first anniversary, so there's truth in your words. My marriage withstood a major test last night...The glue-up of that darn thing. All those little dowels make for a glue-up nightmare. She was helping me since four hands are better than two...She was the glue spreader. I did a lot of cussing because it was a real challenge to align everything and get the clamps on it before the glue dried, and she gets annoyed when I get PO'd and get loud and beligerant when working on something...I tend to talk to my projects when they don't cooperate. 

I used titebond extended-open glue, and barely had time to get it done in time. Stressful. The bad thing is that I have to do it again with the headboard. I need to find some sort of glue that is slower setting, but I don't have a clue what that would be. 

Tony B, the doweling jig makes the alignment of the holes really, really easy. It is self-centering, so all you have to do is make a jig, mark the slats, line up the jig and drill. Each end takes maybe 20 seconds to drill. Getting the width of the spindles right has been the biggest challenge, due in part to my weak math skills. I had to figure out a dimension that would fill the space, look right, and have the exact same spacing all the way across with no wide or narrow spots. Hey, I learned to convert fractions to decimals!


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## Handyman (Jan 2, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> ...... All those little dowels make for a glue-up nightmare....... I did a lot of cussing because it was a real challenge to align everything and get the clamps on it before the glue dried,


Here's an easy way to get all the pegs in the holes without fighting them to much. Before glueing them, make one end pointed. You can do this on a sander or even a bench grinder. Glue the flat ends of the pegs first and clean the exese glue off. Them an hours or so later glue the pointed ends and stab them in the holes. Have one end pointed makes alignment a little easyer.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

I used pre-made dowels with the tapered ends. I do like the idea of gluing them into the stretchers ahead of time though. Might try that on the headboard.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Here's pictures of this weekend's progress on the headboard. 

This is a cross-section of the bottom stretcher that nobody will ever see. Instead of using two layers of 4/4 thick expensive stock, I used one layer of mahogany and one layer of poplar. The poplar will face the wall and can't be seen. To complete the illusion I glued a piece of mahogany over the top of the poplar so it appears to be solid mahogany from the top.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

I did the leg-to-stretcher attachment a little different on the headboard. The mortises and tenons took a long time and were a pain, and considering they're not really structural in this application, I deemed it a waste of time. So, I went with a combination of biscuits and pocket screws. Gotta love not having to use clamps. 

They'll be totally out of view unless the mattress is removed. Even so, being a sucker for clean work, I used cherry plugs. They don't match the poplar at all, but are a close match to the mahogany.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

I also got the top cap screwed on the footboard. The top caps are pretty highly figured, and I didn't want the plugs to jump out at you. My wife was very clear that she hates the plugs and wanted to avoid them completely, but screws through the top are the strongest option with the least visible impact....So she got outvoted. I cut the plugs from the same piece of wood and worked pretty hard to match them to the figure. She's pleased, thank goodness. 

The footboard is sanded to 320 and is glass smooth. I'm resisting the temptation to put the teak oil on it until I get the bedrail fasteners mortised in.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Here's a progress picture from the past weekend. It shows the knockdown hardware and my siderail mockup piece that I used to practice with my mortise template (background), as well as the female pieces of hardware on the bed's legs.

I assembled the siderails to the headboard and footboard. A couple raps with a soft rubber mallet does it. The headboard is over 50" tall, and it has absolutely no wiggle when the bed is assembled...Much better tighter joint than can be had with bed bolts.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

A little more progress. Tonight I couldn't take the suspense so I decided to take advantage of the 50 degree weather and get some teak oil on the footboard and one of the siderails. The headboard and the other side rail have some more sanding and detail work to do before I'm ready to finish them. 

I'm pretty happy with how it looks considering how much variation there is in the color of the wood I used. I was really afraid it would be all over the map, color-wise.

Who knows when it'll be warm enough to start applying the wipe-on poly. Might have to move this project into the heated basement from the unheated garage.


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## jdixon (Nov 21, 2007)

termite, that bed is looking fantastic! It is coming together very, very nicely! Keep those pictures coming! :thumbsup:

John


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

I keep getting more and more impressed with the skill levels!Outstanding Termite!


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## Norman Pyles (Dec 30, 2007)

That is lookin good, keep the pics coming.:thumbsup:


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## Nathan (Aug 17, 2006)

Man, that looks really great. Mission style is one of my favorite.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

That's going to be a pretty bed. Good work.


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## 99flhr (Oct 28, 2008)

Outstanding work Mr. Termite, could you please share the source for your doweling jig and knockdown hardware ? 

Thanks!


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Thanks guys. 

99flhr, the doweling jig is the pro model from Woodcraft (about $60). Awesome little piece of hardware...I'm very happy with it.

The knockdown hardware came from Rockler. Mortise depth and perfect mortise location is critical with it. I have a shop-made jig for routing the mortises, but I always run a practice one to make sure the depth is right. Too shallow and it fits loose...Too deep and the pieces don't draw down. Gotta be flush!


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## smitty1967 (Feb 24, 2008)

awesome work, termite....can't wait to see it all finished. 

I've done a couple beds (four, actually) with those knock-down fasteners. You're exactly right about the rubber mallet. I discovered recently on one I made for a coworker that seating the male end (rails) with a regular hammer isn't the right thing to do....the male fasteners came loose and the bed started to wriggle after some time. I replaced them, and all is well now.

good work, and keep the pics coming.

smitty


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## 99flhr (Oct 28, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> I also got the top cap screwed on the footboard. The top caps are pretty highly figured, and I didn't want the plugs to jump out at you. My wife was very clear that she hates the plugs and wanted to avoid them completely, but screws through the top are the strongest option with the least visible impact....


Mr. Termite, thanks for tips on the hardware, I`m anxious to try the knockdown method. For the top caps,
here`s the option I chose, route a 3/8th dado in the top of the cross rail (full width) and the bottom of the top caps (blind). Glue them together with keystock, you wind up with a full length spline or "biscuit joint" JMO.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

99flhr said:


> Mr. Termite, thanks for tips on the hardware, I`m anxious to try the knockdown method. For the top caps,
> here`s the option I chose, route a 3/8th dado in the top of the cross rail (full width) and the bottom of the top caps (blind). Glue them together with keystock, you wind up with a full length spline or "biscuit joint" JMO.


I tossed around the idea of biscuits or a spline joint of some sort, but I'm rather partial to the plugged screw holes (don't tell my wife). I also like the idea of having a few screws in the top cap because that's inevitably how it gets carried.


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## 99flhr (Oct 28, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> I also like the idea of having a few screws in the top cap because that's inevitably how it gets carried.


 Good call, :thumbsup: I never thought of that.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Thank heaven, it is finally finished. It came out ok. The footboard is perfect, the headboard has some minor flaws that bug me but nobody but me will notice them. The bed is very solid as well. I'm glad to be done with this one though.


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

(now I need to refinish the hardwood floor to match the bed) :no:


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## Jason W (Dec 18, 2008)

Very nice!

I'm gearing up for a sleigh bed soon with redwood.


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## bradnailer (Nov 11, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> (now I need to refinish the hardwood floor to match the bed) :no:


Don't do that because you won't be able to find the bed and may end up sleeping on the floor.


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## jdixon (Nov 21, 2007)

KC, Your bed looks fabulous! Very nice work. :thumbsup:

John


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## mjdtexan (Dec 13, 2008)

Very nice. I really like the color.


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## Skinnygoomba (May 1, 2009)

nice!

Hope you got to take it for a test drive!


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

Skinnygoomba said:


> nice!
> 
> Hope you got to take it for a test drive!


We've got twins on the way. :yes:


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## PTownSubbie (Mar 6, 2009)

The best must be pretty solid....:yes::laughing::thumbsup:

Congrats !!!! :thumbsup::yes:

My wife and I have a set of twins. Only children. We couldn't go through that again.....:laughing::laughing: Get all your wood working done now....


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