# This may not apply to you, but then again...



## Craig Moore (Feb 1, 2010)

I hesitate to post this but here goes. Living in West Virginia it gets cold here. Alot of you know about that. I needed somewhere to store stuff (paint, glue, stain, cordless drill batteries, etc.) in a NOT heated garage/workshop. I was going to buy or build a cabinet and heat the inside of the cabinet. Checked on the Rubbermaid cabinets but they are expensive. Making one isn't cheap either. I was working at my job (you remember what that is?) not long ago and walked past the goodwill store on my way to lunch, looked in the window and there it was. A wooden cabinet approx. 6' tall by 3' wide by 2' deep., $50. I went to HD, bought 2 cheap shelves, 2 sheets of insulation board glued in everywhere, mounted a clamp on light fixture with 100w light bulb in the bottom, (remember, heat rises), installed power strip, and it stays warm all the time. Light lasts about 1 month so the first of every month I replace light bulb. Last week we had 3 days near zero, so the garage inside was near that temp and inside the cabinet it was about 58 degrees. Not bad. I probably have $80 - $90 involved. I have a car battery, mower battery, golf cart battery on trickle chargers in it cause cold weather is hard on them.

I'm proud :yes: & happy :thumbsup: with it even if no one else is.

Craig


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Surprised the bulb burns out that quick. That's 720 hours, they should last about 2000 hours.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

It is a good idea. The only caveat I would offer is that you have an enclosed cabinet with flammable/volatile chemicals and a heat/electrical source. It could be a hazard.


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## Craig Moore (Feb 1, 2010)

Well I thought about the danger, but nothing is real close to the light, and the cabinet doors don't close too tight, remember it's only a $50 cabinet. Biggest problem I have is when it gets warm sometimes it gets 75 -80 in the cabinet and stuff starts to sweat. 
The bulb should last longer, but if it goes out and things freeze, I wasted more than a bulb costs. I don't throw the bulbs away but will use them for something not as important.

Craig


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*This may be of interest...maybe not*

http://browning-gun-safe.com/dehumidifier1.html
Probably a little safer than the light bulb....Browning is a reputable name in firearms and safes. :2guns::laughing: bill


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## Dave_G (Dec 21, 2009)

Great idea - I've spent the winter worry about the things in my unheated garage workshop, bringing cold-sensitive things in, trying to ensure all my tools are lightly oiled to avoid corrosion, and so on. I might heat one or more of my cupboards in the way you suggest. I might use a thermostat, though, to save power (and overheating) on warm days.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Use a line voltage thermostat and connect it to the bulb. It will turn it on and off at a preset temp. Should save some bulb life and keep the temps pretty constant. Set it at about 55 degrees.


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## KC7CN (Aug 21, 2007)

You didn't mention details about the lamp you are using. Consider long-life bulbs (look for 130V) or "long-life" label.

-Don


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

Line Voltage Thermostat

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4PU49?Pid=search


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## Craig Moore (Feb 1, 2010)

Line voltage thermostat







Never knew that existed. Thats a good idea. The first light I used didn't last as long as I thought it should but I figured it was because it was in the fall, we would have a couple cool days so I would turn it on then turn it off when the temp went up, so I thought just leaving it on would make it last longer. I didn't want it to go out and me not know it and everything freeze. If the temps went up I would just prop the door open a little (my version of a thermostat :icon_smile. I like the idea of the line voltage thermostat. Thanks

Craig


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## yknotwood (Feb 15, 2010)

you might try also installing 2 lights that way if one burns out, no real harm. this of course means after you install a thermostat.

russv


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## Dave_G (Dec 21, 2009)

Here in the UK at least we can get long tubular oil-filled low-power heaters. These are around 2 or 3 inches in diameter and start at around 45W or 60W at 1 foot long and go up to a few hundred watts at a few feet long. They're not too expensive (£15 and upwards, depending on power - I guess that's around 20 to 25 dollars in the US).

I was thinking of getting something like this and running it from a thermostat set to a fairly low temperature. I have an old central heating programmable thermostat which I saved when I had my heating system partially replaced and I thought I could make a low-cost background heat system out of this, just to be enough to keep my workshop above freezing point in the winter. I'd put it underneath my run of cupboards. The thermostat should be able to drive this heater directly.

I'm not really after comfort, just preventing things from freezing like water-based varnishes and the like, glues eetc, and hence getting spoilt. All I need is perhaps 5 deg C to prevent freezing.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

*Bulb life*

Guy's remember that bulb life is rated you guessed it in a 70 degree atmosphere, not the same when you are fighting of the cold so don't expect that long lasting life. Jerry


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

maybe i am too safe (if you can be) but bulbs can break and expose the sometimes 2500 degree filament to flamable vapors, i really like the idea though and might try this but with a vapor proof fixture


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

It's a good idea and there is the concern about heat source and flammable things. However I have one other thing that may be of interest. They either have or are in the process of shutting down the last on the manufacturing of incandescent light bulbs. They will no longer make them. They chose to lose the low cost high energy bulbs for high cost compact fluorescent bulbs that need to be disposed of as hazardous waste because of mercury. They don't throw out near the same heat and I found they don't last near as long as they should, they also cost allot more. My point is this, "stock up on them now if you keep this idea"

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/09/07/AR2010090706933.html

http://www.engadget.com/2007/12/24/incandescent-light-bulbs-be-to-shelved-by-2012-in-us/


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Craig Moore said:


> Well I thought about the danger, but nothing is real close to the light, and the cabinet doors don't close too tight, remember it's only a $50 cabinet. Biggest problem I have is when it gets warm sometimes it gets 75 -80 in the cabinet and stuff starts to sweat.
> The bulb should last longer, but if it goes out and things freeze, I wasted more than a bulb costs. I don't throw the bulbs away but will use them for something not as important.
> 
> Craig


There is a small disk available to put in the socket under the bulb that absorbs electrical spikes and slightly reduces voltage to the light bulb. These will extend the life of the bulb many times over. For the life of me I can't think of the name. I use them in displays that take incandescent bulbs in my hardware store. I think it might be called a "watt miser". Another accessory you might consider would be a winter watchman. It is a thermostatic switch that turns on an outlet at the temperature that you choose.


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Its an interesting idea, and if my shop was a good long way from anyones bedroom I might try it too. But it still scares me a little. I'd keep all the liquids in metal trays to contain any unexpected/accidental spills inside the cabinet, but that still leaves the fume problem. OK, so the doors don't close tight. If there's a real spill or leak, or some lid isn't on like you thought, is that gap ENOUGH to keep the concentration below the critical level? I'm thinking it would be an increased level of safety to ditch the light bulb and use a low power heat source (heat tape, heating pad(s)) in a super insulated lower compartment, that is caulked to be airtight from the compartment above. If that sounds good to you, then maybe add some pan flashing to the floor of the upper compartment, wrapping down the sides of the lower, as a extra layer of protection in case there's a bulk liquid accident above. Even with all that, I'd still be leery of having this thing within ignition distance of a bedroom. 

But that's just me. Good luck!


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## Zircon (Aug 1, 2009)

*heat tape*

If there is concern about safety and the bulb burning out, consider substituting a heat tape for the bulb. It has a built in thermostat. I have one wrapped around pipes in the attic to keep them from freezing and it has been operating for years.


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## Nick Ferry (Feb 23, 2011)

or use a screw in ceramic heater in the socket - might get too hot though - i bet they make them in different wattages


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Another thing to watch is the batteries charging in the cabinet. Even though it is a trickle charge it still gives off explosive gasses. If you have ever had a battery blow up in your face you will know what I mean, the batteries can for sure catch fire when charging.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Craig Moore said:


> I was working at my job (you remember what that is?) not long ago and walked past the goodwill store on my way to lunch, looked in the window and there it was. A wooden cabinet approx. 6' tall by 3' wide by 2' deep., $50.
> Craig


Who'd'a thunk? Keeping things alive in a coffin. 

It's actually a really good idea. I mean, "heat lamps" definitely work for keeping things warm and a lot of epoxy "curing ovens" are basically just lamps inside a box just like you've put together.

Good work.


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## CaptRandy (Jan 27, 2011)

Don't forget batteries give off explosive gas when they are charged. Heat tape may be better way to accomplish end results.


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