# Scary Sharpening Tips - plus a granite score



## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

While working today I stopped by a local granite shop and asked if I could have some of the scraps from the dumpster for sharpening my chisels. They said take what ever I wanted, just don't climb in there and get hurt. So I grabbed some pieces. I didn't know what size would be good so I grabbed a few different ones. Some are about 4" wide by a varying lengths. Some are bigger. You can see them in the 6' bed of my truck to give an idea.

So the questions are what sizes would work well? Would the 4" wide ones be good with maybe a couple of different grits on them?

How many different grits do you use for scary sharpening? I know there is a lot on the web, maybe too much. I am getting confused. I need just a primer on what grits to get going. I have seen people with water stones use just 2 or 3 depending on whether you are starting with new/beat up chisels that need a lot of work.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks
Paul


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## stevespens (Jan 31, 2012)

Hi Paul,
Before I got my wet sharpener, I did a little scary sharpening. Some of my more beat up stuff I wound up as high as 180 grit. Went all the way through the grits. Each progressive grit removes the scratches from the previous grit. From 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. 
I was sharpening plane irons so I wanted as sharp as I could get. And they were sharp! shave your arm hair sharp. It took some time too. Chisels too. I don't spend that kind of time on chisels any more. They just don't last long enough to spend that kind of time. The plane irons are still "hurt you" sharp. 
Good luck and have fun.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Hi Paul
I use this system a lot.
I would use the long rectangular pieces.
Smaller pieces are easier to store in the shop.

You have to apply your sandpaper on the edge of the granite so you can flatten the back.
I have several pieces that are 3-4" wide.
I cut my 9 x 11 paper into thirds.

I use glass a lot too.
I can call the local glass guy and he cuts me 3" x 12" pieces.
They work really well.

But nothing says you can't put a full sheet next to the edge and use the entire 9 x 11 sheet.

So I guess my final answer is whatever works for you.

This is what is working for me....some glass...some granite......


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## Paul W Gillespie (Jul 7, 2011)

TC, thanks, it looks like you are using 4 grits. What grits are they?


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

I use several grits. Sometimes it depends on the condition of the tool.

For rough shaping and coming off the grinder, I may start as low as 100.
then 120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200

You only see four because the paper is also on the back side of the glass.
Another good reason for using glass vs granite.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

What is "scary" sharpening.

Why is it that any time I am reading about people doing tool sharpening I never read about any body using natural stones?

George


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

I adopted the sandpaper method several years ago after struggling with all sorts of jigs and other methods.

I like it because it's quick and doesn't use oils or make a mess.

But that's just my caveman method.

There are other methods and I am always watching for more ways to get stuff scary sharp.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

GeorgeC said:


> What is "scary" sharpening.
> 
> Why is it that any time I am reading about people doing tool sharpening I never read about any body using natural stones?
> 
> George


Can natural stones take out nicks?
Aren't they for fine honing?


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## joesbucketorust (Dec 13, 2011)

GeorgeC said:


> What is "scary" sharpening.
> 
> Why is it that any time I am reading about people doing tool sharpening I never read about any body using natural stones?
> 
> George


scary sharpening when I first heard the term only applied to the sandpaper method and it got the name from the belief that by going up to 6.2gazillion grit you could get a blade so shiny and so sharp that it would slice electrons - possibly creating a mini nuclear blast if you were to wave a sharpened plane cutter around during an electric storm. Or if you had the eyesight to try it, instead of just cutting hairs on your arm you could attack the hairs from the end and split them - twice. Running your fingernail against the edge to test sharpness was discouraged because you risked amputation. That's scary sharp. 
As for natural - I've got a few white and dark arkansas stones. They are, IMO, too fine for starting on if the edge is rough. The white is good for final honing but it would take two eons to remove a nick from a chisel using just that stone.


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## bikeshooter (Nov 5, 2010)

subscribed - thanks for the info folks


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## Possumpoint (Oct 13, 2011)

I use the scary sharp method with 5 - 9"x 12" pieces of 1/4" plate glass. On those, I glue 10 sheets of sandpaper with grits 100, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive. I found that when you need to change the sandpaper, if you freeze the plates overnight, the sandpaper comes off much easier.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

That's a good tip. My only issue has been getting the sandpaper back off to replace.

Paul, for those planes you bought I suspect you will need a low grit for lapping the bottom. I used 100 on a cheap stanley block plane I got last year and believe me, even with 100 it took a while to get that sucker flat. :thumbdown: Once it's flat though you move up the grits to take out the scratches from the previous grit as others have mentioned.

I'm no expert so hopefully those more experienced can confirm and elaborate, but typically you will want to establish a primary bevel, perhaps 25 degrees, then you will hone a secondary bevel, say 30 degrees. Resharpening then is about cleaning up that secondary bevel until you need to grind back the primary bevel.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

joesbucketorust said:


> scary sharpening when I first heard the term only applied to the sandpaper method and it got the name from the belief that by going up to 6.2gazillion grit you could get a blade so shiny and so sharp that it would slice electrons - possibly creating a mini nuclear blast if you were to wave a sharpened plane cutter around during an electric storm. Or if you had the eyesight to try it, instead of just cutting hairs on your arm you could attack the hairs from the end and split them - twice. Running your fingernail against the edge to test sharpness was discouraged because you risked amputation. That's scary sharp.
> As for natural - I've got a few white and dark arkansas stones. They are, IMO, too fine for starting on if the edge is rough. The white is good for final honing but it would take two eons to remove a nick from a chisel using just that stone.


Thanks for the definition.

Yes, I would not want to take out nicks with an arkansas stone. I use a selection of stones + oil for my knives.

George


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