# Need advice on restoring American of Martinsville Dresser



## rdeadly (Apr 5, 2012)

Hey Everyone,

I recently found an American of Martinsville dresser lying on the side of the road. It's in decent condition, but it looks as though someone may have attempted to restore it to its original state and gave up....it seems like the lacquer has been removed from the top and sides and the corner has been stripped right down through the veneer. It looks like there's poplar underneath, but I'm guessing it doesn't look so great.

http://postimage.org/image/kdolwuqr3/

http://postimage.org/image/ee0ut75yn/


My question is........what should I do with it? Should I remove the rest of the veneer (which may be difficult as the piece is probably less than 50 years old), or should I attempt to match a new piece to the corner that has been removed? Does the veneer on the dresser look like walnut?

ANY help here would be great!

Thanks a lot,

r


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

rdeadly said:


> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I recently found an American of Martinsville dresser lying on the side of the road. It's in decent condition, but it looks as though someone may have attempted to restore it to its original state and gave up....it seems like the lacquer has been removed from the top and sides and the corner has been stripped right down through the veneer. It looks like there's poplar underneath, but I'm guessing it doesn't look so great.
> 
> ...


Hi rdeadly, 

first off a few more pics with the Wood whetted down will help address both the initial problems as well as any others not easily seen on dry wood ok? Views of both sides - front - and top will help immensely ok?

That said, I would agree that the wrong techniques were used in sanding and cutting through the veneer, the core wood is poplar a common core for the time and even used some today. 

My beginning suggestion would be to use a high-pressure laminate wood veneer faced material to over coat the existing top and possibly the sides also. I won't confirm that till i see other pics which could affect this recommendation. If by chance it is useful then i will go into detail as to how to do this and where to order or get ok? Personally i would leave the drawers alone and sand them as smooth as possible keeping an eye not to make the same mistakes that got it where it presently is ok?

If by chance you are a woodworker and have the ability to cold press or vacuum your own veneers that is also a possibility. 

get back with pics and info ok?

Sincerely, 

Chemmy


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## rdeadly (Apr 5, 2012)

Hey Chemmy,

Thanks for the quick response.....here's some more photos of the dresser. I didn't photograph the other side because it's in decent shape (no sanded through veneer). Let me know what you think!


http://postimage.org/image/n42zr5trj/

http://postimage.org/image/iw87iesbz/

http://postimage.org/image/kpb46qdin/

http://postimage.org/image/kdtntyx2n/

http://postimage.org/image/kdtntyx2n/


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

rdeadly said:


> Hey Chemmy,
> 
> Thanks for the quick response.....here's some more photos of the dresser. I didn't photograph the other side because it's in decent shape (no sanded through veneer). Let me know what you think!
> 
> ...


Well first off it tells me the top is badly faded, the proper right side as you know is much darker and richer in color in comparison. As to the proper left side, i cant see so i don't know???

Next, you didn't answer my question as to how much you know of cabinet and veneer work and what you might be able to do on your own?

My suggestions still stand until i hear back ok? :yes:


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## rdeadly (Apr 5, 2012)

I know next to nothing about veneer or cabinet work......I may be able to reapply veneer myself, but I'm not sure how difficult it is. I'm wondering whether it's worth the hassle of re-applying a veneer vs. stripping off the veneer and staining the poplar underneath. The proper left is in the same shape as the proper right minus the sanded area that is on the proper right!


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

rdeadly said:


> I know next to nothing about veneer or cabinet work......I may be able to reapply veneer myself, but I'm not sure how difficult it is. I'm wondering whether it's worth the hassle of re-applying a veneer vs. stripping off the veneer and staining the poplar underneath. The proper left is in the same shape as the proper right minus the sanded area that is on the proper right!


Then my recommendation stands for the veneer laminate. 

This can be put on with contact cement and a short nap red synthetic roller, i advise 2 coats both on the wood and the laminate, letting each dry before applying the second coat ok? 

This is still tentative if you don't know how to use a router to remove the excess over-sized veneer laminate or know some one personally capable of doing this for you ok? Get back with answers on this.

There is also the possibility of using 1/8th inch or 1/4 inch walnut veneered plywood that could also be glued on if not. There again if you have a means to accurately cut the dimensions or know some one who can. 

If you can do neither, then i would suggest painting with opaque color such as black, and creating a pattern on the top that would mask equal portions on both sides in black while leaving the central un-affected area natural walnut, then the trim wood between the drawers could also be painted the same as well as the sides so that the look appears intentional. For instance think taping off the top in 3 sections triangularly one from the back point corner to the middle of the front edge and then repeating on the other end, leaving a large triangle of the natural walnut forming a pretty decent size triangle, this would hide the top problems and give a distinctive look. The sides could be done the same or in a similar fashion and the front just the separating wood between the drawers leaving the toe-kick walnut also,

you could also do a diamond pattern if the triangular theme doesn't sound to your liking, if that does not sound acceptable to you, then use your own imagination and judgement ok?

Something along this line only the black areas for top and sides would be larger


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## rdeadly (Apr 5, 2012)

Thanks for the advice! If you recommend replacing the veneer, what would be the best way of removing the one on there now? And you'd still recommend new veneer vs. staining the poplar, right?


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## chemmy (Dec 13, 2011)

rdeadly said:


> Thanks for the advice! If you recommend replacing the veneer, what would be the best way of removing the one on there now? And you'd still recommend new veneer vs. staining the poplar, right?


Your poplar is going to very in color from white to green and colors in between, you can not get a uniform stain the poplar substrate is made up of many solid boards glued together,each one differing in color. The side is probably plywood and will not be poplar but a white-wood, this will look totally different to but should stain out uniformly depending on thee grade of underlayment it has. Neither patterns would be known for sure till removal. 

I recommended the veneer only if you had the means to properly apply it either yourself or know someone who can and has done it with the tools necessary to do it properly. I have done alot of it so for me it's not a problem, for a beginner with no tools or know how, it is. 

I would hate to see you invest the money to do so only to end up cursing the day you ever decided to listen to me on this point, lol.

Thus my further suggestions on a mix of paint and natural methods, though i can see your not taken with that notion. 

I'm afraid at this point i have no further suggestions and will have to leave it for others to post any they have or for you to decide on some other possibilities or put it back where you found it or possibly scavenge the good parts and in time build a new one from scratch.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

rdeadly said:


> Thanks for the advice! If you recommend replacing the veneer, what would be the best way of removing the one on there now? And you'd still recommend new veneer vs. staining the poplar, right?


If you like the wood look, I would remove the veneer that's there. You can use a heat gun and a putty knife. What ever residue of glue remains can be removed with lacquer thinner. I wouldn't recommend wood faced HPL (like Formica), as it will leave a dark edge not consistent with a veneered look. It's more involved to work with compared with a veneer, as for cutting, routing and filing.

You can use a paper backed veneer and a solvent based contact cement. Both the wood and the veneer should only need one application of glue. If you use a roller (like a paint roller), but with a roller cover designated for adhesives, it will leave a very smooth application. Doing two applications gives way of creating high and low spots, and the roller has the tendency to stick to the first application, and could pull up dried glue. 

The paper backed veneer cuts very easily with a utility knife and a straight edge. When shopping for it you may want to visit the store to view their selection. Buying online may produce a very different appearing veneer.

If you plan on doing the veneer, you first might consider experimenting with some stain, as you'll have the existing wood exposed. If you go dark, you may get it all very close. If you don't like what the experimental area looks like, you can wipe off the stain with lacquer thinner, and continue on with your adventure in veneering.










 







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## rdeadly (Apr 5, 2012)

Yeah, I think I'll remove the veneer that's on there now....I don't have a heat gun, but some friends have mentioned using a steam iron over a damp towel layed over top of the dresser. So I guess you're saying that once the veneer has been removed, try staining the poplar and if that goes horribly wrong, cover it up with veneer, right?!

Thanks for all the advice.......I'm in the Bay Area/SF.....do you know of any spots in the area that would offer a selection of veneer?


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