# Laminate



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

So I've done a few laminate projects before, and never really noticed a problem.....but recently have had two where after I was done noticed the laminate delaminating...


So for example, I built an extension on my tablesaw out of MDF with a maple frame....utilized contact cement on both the MDF and the laminate and then after it dried, used a j roller to press it down....came back a few days later to bevel the edge and the laminate was loose at the edge. Super glue and a clamp fixed it....but I know now that the bond was not sufficient....


So....am I missing a step? Not using enough contact cement? Just unlucky? 

I've got a router table top in the works and really don't want any trouble with this one.


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## bzguy (Jul 11, 2011)

For commercial work I put it on thick, two coats with a paintbrush with ample drying time between.
Do not stick together until the surfaces do not feel sticky to your hands.
Here are some laminate topped, (Plywood substrate, pine framed) picnic tables that actually stand up to the driving rains.
http://flic.kr/p/jddXJZ


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

What contact cement did you use...waterbase or solvent base?

What was the ambient temperature?








 







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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Ambient temperature was 62-64 degrees....dap contact cement which by the smell alone I'd guess was solvent based. The odd part to me is that most of it adhered fine....


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

ryan50hrl said:


> Ambient temperature was 62-64 degrees....dap contact cement which by the smell alone I'd guess was solvent based. The odd part to me is that most of it adhered fine....


Temperature should be above 65 degrees. The back of the laminate only needs one good application...it's not that porous. The MDF should take two. Allow the first to dry, and apply the second. The surfaces have about an hour of open time, and can feel slightly tacky to dry before laminating.

If you used waterbase, check the directions for ambient temperature application, and it takes a lot longer for it to flash off dry.

With either, stir the can well before using.


















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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Did you solve the problem, or figure out what went wrong? You disappeared from this thread.:yes:








 







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## Trav (May 30, 2011)

I have found that I have to apply multiple coats of contact cement that I have purchased from my home center to get the appropriate amount of adhesive coverage. The viscosity seems a whole lot thinner than the same brand adhesive I purchase from a commercial flooring distributer even though it is labeled "brush grade". 

The issue sounds like it is related to the amount of adhesive or contamination from dust or something similar, which I am sure you guarded against.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Well.....I think it probably comes down to not having used enough. I'll be laminating my router table top soon and will see if this fixes my issues


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

I use the procedure outlined by cabinetman. I have only used waterbase once (Dap's green can) and had problems. Never had a problem with the red can.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I'm suspecting insufficient adhesive along with it soaking into the MDF was the culprit.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I've not had good results with the water based stuff. (Green can)

I wind up using the red can and as soon is the last corner applied is tack free, they are joined.


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

For small areas the 3 M # 90 spray works really great. No mess, minimal cleanup.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

MDF is pressed when it is manufactured. Sometimes the formaldehyde gets really thick on the surface and interferes with paint and adhesives. I normally sand MDF to make sure the surface is free of excess formaldehyde.


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## bladeburner (Jun 8, 2013)

I've had success re-sticking laminate by running a hot iron over the area.

Also, I wipe both surfaces with acetone before applying cement. Never know what's gotten on it before I bought it!


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