# Need some advice on a Radial Arm Saw



## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Hey Guys....

So i've got a really nice table saw......and a decent miter saw.......but I'm really finding that i'd like a dedicated crosscut saw for wider boards and narrow panels. So......i'm thinking radial arm saw.

I've been watching on craigslist for a while now.....and here's where i'm at....

I've seen 100's of craftsman saws.......for anywhere from 20 bucks to 500 bucks.....and while i've used one before and it was fine....if i'm going to get one, restore it, built a long table for it......i'll probably keep it for a long long time so i'd rather get the right one for me. 

I've also seen both delta and rockwell saws that are of the turret variety.......but they are defiantly harder to come by... 

And then last but not least...i've seen a number of dewalt designs.....


My primary concern is crosscut capacity.....and quality. I don't ever intend on changing the angle on it.....no ripping on it....no routing or other uses....its strictly going to be for cross cutting.....


Which models would you recommend I look for? 


thanks in advance guys....


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I have a craftsman radial arm saw. If you cut a lot of hardwood it can get aggravating. The machine just lacks the power. I often make a cut and bring the blade to a stop because it lacks the power. If you are watching craigslist for a used saw I would look for an old Dewalt commercial saw.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

really like my mid 60s vintage c-man. nothing fancy but it cuts dead on every time. only cost $60 to fix it when a neighbor set it to the curb as trash:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8In_nKqW1DA


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I think you would do well with either of your mentioned choices; a Delta/Rockwell Turret Arm or an earlier DeWalt like Steve mentioned.

Here's a fun thread for you to read through: http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=116183&hilit=best+delta+radial+arm+saw

Bill


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*strictly cross cutting*

I have several 12" Craftsman RASs and they are fine. The 12" has more power and can run on either 120 V or 220 V depending on the model you get. Cross cutting is limited to 16" or so, not very much IF you are working with sheet goods like plywood for cabinets...

Why not consider a vertcal panel saw? I made my own:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/woodnthings-7194/albums/panel-saw/

Here's akit that pretty reasonable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Sliding-Panel-Saw-Hardware-Kit-/281191079778


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## caliwoodmastergv (Feb 24, 2013)

Like this? I use my radial for kindling only. Don't stay true. Maybe a sliding table for your table saw?


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

My advice would be to pass on anything Craftsman. You can get them to hold 90º if you leave it there, or not. Many have done that, but I had one (2 actually) that wouldn't and these were both of the "desired vintage" models. I now have 3 Dewalts (only one in the shop) and use it for a lot of crosscuts, but it also replaced my miter saw so it does the miters and other angles. Best of all, it always returns to 90º when I'm done. The Delta/Rockwell turret arms will as well. What you may find is that you intend to leave it set for cross cuts, but it's so useful in pother ways you'll find other uses. So my advice is to keep looking for a Dewalt (certain models) or the turret arm. If you find a Dewalt, it would be useful to ask for advice on that particular model, since B&D really screwed the pooch on the later models (early 70's or so and newer)


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

I have an old Craftsman and it's some serious iron. It's fine for me but I can't compare it to the other models you listed or other Craftsman's as I've never used those others.

One suggestion I would give - if you get one, use it for Dado'ing as well as crosscuts, for your 90 degree dados. Many times it works much better than using the t-saw, particularly with a fence and stop block.


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## Toolman2 (Jun 15, 2010)

I've had several 10" craftsmans' (4), and they just haven't done the job. I bought a Delta Multiplex 20a (8"), and fully restored it. It works like a champ. So much so, that I'm looking for a Multiplex 40 (12-14") to restore.

Like you, I have the miter saw and table saw, but it's nice to have something dedicated to crosscuts and accurate miter cuts.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

I had a brand new 12” Craftsman back in the ‘70s before sliding miter saws were available. I used it to cut door and window headers for house framing. It was great for that but I have to admit that I got real tired of adjusting it. At the time I didn’t know any better and thought that was just the way it was. I sold it back then to help pay for my education.
I wish I still had it, but if I had it still today, I think I’d figure out a way to wield it so I didn’t have to adjust it anymore.
I don’t have one of the new 12” miter saws and don’t know if dado blades will work on them, but I use my 10” RAS for dados.


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## bisley45 (Nov 12, 2012)

What the others have said is spot on go Dewalt or delta. I have a Dewalt MBF and have had a few Craftsman and I can tell you from my experience the Dewalt is hands down the better saw. Mine is the 9" and I am on the look out for a bigger one :yes:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

bisley45 said:


> What the others have said is spot on go Dewalt or delta. I have a Dewalt MBF and have had a few Craftsman and I can tell you from my experience the Dewalt is hands down the better saw. Mine is the 9" and I am on the look out for a bigger one :yes:


So what's your cross cut capacity on the dewalt?


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## bisley45 (Nov 12, 2012)

on the MBF that I have it is about 14-15" but if you set the fence back you could get about 16 1/2 but that is getting very close to the blade at start up. I have a line on a 14" dewalt that I am going to go look at it has a 22" cross cut I believe. but also one thing to consider is on the bigger saws like the one I am going to look at they are most likely 3 Ph so that is something else to consider.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Ive had a number of Craftsman ras's in my shop over the years.
By far the best model is the one in the picture (not mine) Note, round motor end. That model can still have problems. On my last one, one day the arm would not lock up solid. Had to remove arm, and dissassemble to repair (hit with a hammer a few times) 
One nice thing about that model, is the flat motor bottom, that has 2 tapped holes in it, just waiting for you to attach a router mount. It works great for dados etc. the router can be left on when using the ras, for sawing.

That said, I found a Red Star, Multiplex 30-A (Delta bought Red Star to get in the game) The saw is a big improvement over the CM. Perfectly smooth travel. Ridgid arm. The turret arm saws have the least deflection in the arm, of the different ras's (For laughs, in a box store, take a scms, with the motor/blade extended all the way, push sideways on it with a little pressure. You will be amazed!)

As far as not using for miter cuts. Why not? My Red Star doesn't have a detent at 90 degrees, so I have to set it to 90 deg. and make a test cut. Readjust as needed. Usually takes a minute or less to get right on. The miter function is handy to use. 

If you can find an older CM ras, in decent shape go for it. Then in the future, if you find a better one you can always, sell or turn in the old one for the bounty. Emerson, is offering a $100 turn in on the old CM ras's. It's a shame they don't offer it on the newer pos saws. Some of the saws on the recall are pos ones, which should be put to rest, but not the old ones.

I wouldn't want to go without a ras in my shop (hobby only)


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I find RAS's a necessary tool in a complete shop. I've always had at least two. One that stays at 90°, and one that does miters. They are one of the most complex tools to use, set up, and maintain. They do all kinds of things, and have mechanisms that tilt, raise/lower, tighten, pivot, rotate, etc. Much to keep after. But, using them often keeps your maintenance routine very minimal. Once set up, unless something breaks, tuning up is easy.

As for crosscut length, I lucked out with finding a used Atlas 14" 5hp. for $200. It had over a 20" crosscut. It worked out great because one of my CMS's, a 14" Makita used the same blades. 


















.


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## caliwoodmastergv (Feb 24, 2013)

I personally don't think a radial is at all necessary. I learned the trade with a ras for cross cutting face frame stock. I also learned how to true one up about once a week in that process. I also learned that a solid tsaw with a sled is all one needs. And doesn't require constant checking and truing. Ive since spoiled myself with a 16hp holzer horizontal panel saw. But no matter the job I spend 90% of my time on the table saw. Just my opinion


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It's awkward to cut down long boards on a tablesaw with a sled in my opinion. Hence why I'm going to get a radial arm saw.


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## Sleeper (Mar 24, 2009)

ryan50hrl said:


> It's awkward to cut down long boards on a tablesaw with a sled in my opinion. Hence why I'm going to get a radial arm saw.


I'm actually surprised that there aren't more postings on the negative side. There are a a few that are dead set against them. 
When I first decided to buy one for myself after years of not having one, I found myself in constant defense over my decision. :smile:
My only problem was the space it takes up and I ended up moving it outside, but thats only due to poor planing on my part. There are plenty of ways of adjusting the height to utilize the tables of other equipment like the table saw or whatever.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Ryan said: <<_It's awkward to cut down long boards on a tablesaw with a sled in my opinion. Hence why I'm going to get a radial arm saw. _>>

That's exactly what I thought to myself when I saw Cali's post. Also, I recently cut nine angled dados on each of two 2"x4"x10' pieces of pressure treated lumber to make a ladder. My lowly Sears RAS was great for that chore. Plus it's better than a table saw for cutting rough lumber.

Bill


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

That's the only thing I want it for is cross cutting. I'll never rip or miter with it. Just using it for crosscutting to rough dimensions.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

bisley45 said:


> What the others have said is spot on go Dewalt or delta. I have a Dewalt MBF and have had a few Craftsman and I can tell you from my experience the Dewalt is hands down the better saw. Mine is the 9" and I am on the look out for a bigger one :yes:


I had a DeWalt that looked similar to yours, mine was a different color, had a 16 inch blade, a 5 hp 220 motor and was made in 1957, it was one of the best RAS I have ever used. I moved from a large shop to a very small shop so it had to go. It was the dickens to set up but once set it stayed set. I wish I had it back.


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## CT Proctor (Aug 5, 2013)

I recently pulled my RAS out and replaced it with a 12" SCMS. It has the same cross cut capacity as the RAS did and no climb cutting. I use a sled on the main TS for most cross cuts and have a dedicated TS for dado's, so far I haven't missed it.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

dodgeboy77 said:


> Ryan said: <<_It's awkward to cut down long boards on a tablesaw with a sled in my opinion. Hence why I'm going to get a radial arm saw. _>>
> 
> That's exactly what I thought to myself when I saw Cali's post. Also, I recently cut nine angled dados on each of two 2"x4"x10' pieces of pressure treated lumber to make a ladder. My lowly Sears RAS was great for that chore. Plus it's better than a table saw for cutting rough lumber.
> 
> Bill




Cutting dados on long pieces of stock, is one of the great things a ras can do. I had to make a bunch of 1 1/4" deep, dados in a couple of 2x4's to make a door drying rack. Cut all 20 +/- dados in less about 5 minutes. And that was doing each dado in 2 cuts.

For cutting a number of dados in 2 or more passes, is easy with the ras, if you make a stop collar for the post, as shown in the picture.
Set collar to depth of final cut. That way all dados are the same depth.

Here's a picture of the router mount I made for the CM ras I had.


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## Anywhy30 (Dec 2, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> Hey Guys....
> 
> So i've got a really nice table saw......and a decent miter saw.......but I'm really finding that i'd like a dedicated crosscut saw for wider boards and narrow panels. So......i'm thinking radial arm saw.
> 
> ...


I have an eight in. Ryobi and I'm not complaining.. Probably many more opinions.. But like I said no complaints here..!


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Too new to be worthwhile? 

http://lacrosse.craigslist.org/tls/4166155474.html


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## mobilepaul (Nov 8, 2012)

Ryan,

IF you're wanting a crosscut capacity north of 22", why not just a circ saw on a homemade sled or a track saw for the cross cuts. You say it's for rough dimensioning anyway...


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The cross cut max capacity is a perk, but my current 12 inch miter saw only cut 8 inches. This leaves a lot of my rough wood cuts to be done by hand. I've considered sliding miter saws, but for the money it seems a good radial arm saw can't be beat. 

I'd like something that can be squared up and used for finish cuts in furniture pieces.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Thoughts on this one for 150 bucks? He says its a Dewalt 1030, single phase, and in perfect operational condition (obviously will check that part out when I go).


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

I only have only a basic knowledge of the DeWalts but saw this link to a 1030 that may lead you to some more information: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=2340

There were apparently round arm (early) and square arm (late) versions of 1030's, the latter being 1030K's. They had a 10" blade with a 12" option.

To me, it looks like a good, relatively early CI round arm DeWalt with a solid table and I would think it would be worth every penny of $150 if it's in good shape.

Bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

mobilepaul said:


> Ryan,
> 
> IF you're wanting a crosscut capacity north of 22", why not just a circ saw on a homemade sled or a track saw for the cross cuts. You say it's for rough dimensioning anyway...


+1. :yes: DIY versions of this as a crosscut works out well. Steel angle iron can be used for the rails (or wood), and any handheld circular saw can be used. Cuts can be as finished as you like.








 







.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Be sure to check for wear on the ways on the Dewalt saw. Most wear is closer to the post, as that's where most of the use is. I hear it's expensive to have them machined.
A ras is a great addition to a shop.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I'm going to look at it tomorrow. Anyone know what one of these weighs?


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

<<_ Anyone know what one of these weighs?_>>

No, but do you notice that the table/stand has two big, heavy duty handles on each side?  (Picture from OWWM). The good news is that I suppose DeWalt figured two guys could handle it.










Bill


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

New saw on its way home.


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Congratulations and good luck! Keep us informed of your progress and how well the saw performs.

Bill


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## JJJ (Dec 11, 2017)

RE: Replacing the power cord on a Red Star (or Delta) Multiplex 40 a RAS. Anybody, PLEASE, tell me what you know about doing this. Especially, what do I get into when removing the right side square end cap off of the motor. Are there are a lot of wires inside that may be difficult to re-install?
I have the on/off switch and pull handle cap off and can see where 2 of the 3 wires go. It is the 3rd one that bothers me. Where does it go after turning down into the top of the motor shroud?
Thank you so much.
John


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## tewitt1949 (Nov 26, 2013)

I've had a craftsman RAS for 30 years and it has been very dependable. After I switched it to 220 volts it gave it much more power. Maybe yours can be converted to 220v.


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## DeltaMultiplex40B (Jan 5, 2019)

Did you ever find a Delta Multiplex 40. I am selling my 97 year old father's Delta Multiplex40B that he used for his entire career as a custom homebuilder in Kalispell, MT specializing in custom kitchen cabinets. (509) 242-9980


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