# can someone help me with this ??



## ruthless1 (Feb 18, 2011)

i have a friend of mine that asked me to help him figure out this scoop on these bee keeper boxes and i cannot for the life of me get it to act right ..my first thought was yeah thats easy with a 3/4" dado blade ..plunge up then tilt ....wrong ..so anyone know how to pull this off


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you can live without the angle slope down part you could make the notch with a dado set on a table saw. Just set of a stop on the saw top and raise the dado blade into the wood and push it forward maybe an inch. As wide as it is you would have to make it in two cuts. 

The slope down was probably made with a special made cutter which would be harder to do. Probably the cheapest way to get that done would be to get a molding cutter for a table saw and grind a blade to the angle you need and run it the same way on a table saw.


----------



## ruthless1 (Feb 18, 2011)

yeah steve thats the thing ...its the slope that has got me stumped ..ive come real close with the dado blade plunging up on a 45° and then setting it straight up and plunge but one or the other always runs through on the sides of the cuts ..as you can see in the picture they both bottom out at the same point ...damn near impossible to do without a digital read out on your saw on raising it ( i do not have this ) im starting to think the same thing you said about the shaper ....but i want to think there is a way to either swing plunge the board on top of the blade ( highly dangerous ! ) or some sort of jig to hold it just right .. but i could be very wrong . .it happened once a long time ago ...ppppffft yeah right !! thanx for the feedback bud if i figure it out i will let ya know


----------



## ruthless1 (Feb 18, 2011)

btw ..yes i could def. live without the scoop....but now its one of those things that i have to either figure out or burn out ....its just the way my hard head works


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

ruthless1 said:


> i have a friend of mine that asked me to help him figure out this scoop on these bee keeper boxes and i cannot for the life of me get it to act right ..my first thought was yeah thats easy with a 3/4" dado blade ..plunge up then tilt ....wrong ..so anyone know how to pull this off



You could make the initial pocket using the dado blade. Then remove all the chippers and get down to a single blade which you "should" be able to tilt... slowly until the waste is cleared away and you end up with the desired scoop. It may require lowering the blade .... or raising it a little at a time from the full 45 degree position .... I donno which way would work best. Try some samples with the work clamped to the table and see it that will work.


----------



## ruthless1 (Feb 18, 2011)

ok woodnthings i gotcha ..i should mention that my saw is a left tilt and the scoop is going away from the bottom point . where the 2 meet ...so the scoop part needs to end where the blade is closest to the table and the tip of the blade is on the outside ...there is no way your going to make out wth i just tried to say man ..sorry ill do sone test pieces and post


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Does it have to be that design? I would be inclined to make a template and route out a hole in the side with a bit like this.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*no, I get that part*

It goes from deepest to non-existent tilting away to the left. It would seem that you would have to lower the blade as you tilt or raise the blade as you go back to vertical... all working blind. :thumbdown: 
Make a sample section, maybe by hand using a gouge? and cut it through the center to get approximate blade heights. 

OK, make the scooped porting on a board using the bandsaw. Make the dado section on another board using the dado on the table saw. Glue the two boards together... :blink:


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Beehive*

Ruthless
The purpose of the scoop is to eliminate any water standing in the groove. 
This was most likely originally cut with a shaper with a special cutter. 
If you want to change this and simplify it, you could eliminate the dado cut on a table saw and cut the whole thing using two large router bits. 
Use a straight bit followed with a cove bit. The router cuts allow you to see what your doing and it's a safer method. 
It won't match the original, but it will achieve the same thing. 
Good luck bee man.


----------



## ruthless1 (Feb 18, 2011)

toolman that is the most logical thing to do and your right about being able to see your work and it obviously would be the safest "route" haha  i think i will try this way ..woodnthings thank you for your feedback as well as ive tried the "blind" method and it is exactly that...there is no way if determining the plunge up ward and you might as well play the lottery trying to hit the sweet spot and the height will almost always be to deep or the opposing ...i knew if i put it on here you guys would shoot ideas at me untill something csme about ...lol ill show you the closest i came today ...i set it down for a bit to do my work on a wainscoat wall for a kitchen im finishing up...these boxes are a friends project that he asked me for help with that handle .. all it is is a distraction for me at the moment but i dont mind helping a fellow woodnut at all ..thanks again guys you all have been helpful


----------



## ruthless1 (Feb 18, 2011)

one more thing ..i read on a chair building site to use a grinder to do the scooping out but they have the correct sanding disc to do so . lol i did not had an abrasive wheel that created alot of fine dust snd ugly scoops . but i do think that if i did have the right disc i could get real close or close enough


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*to avoid working "blind"....*

Maybe you could use a radial arm saw where you can see what you are doing. Same process, lower a little swing it over a little, eventually you would clear out all the waste so just swinging the carriage over would clean up the entire pass.

You had better clamp the work piece down real well, because any shift would cause a grab. :yes: Actually, I've see more "scary" things than this done with the dang saws, and nobody went to the ER.... just sayin'


----------



## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

Go to you tube--I saw several videos showing that cut--that is made with a radial arm saw---the board sits in a jig angled so the blade can be slid in--hard to explain--same process as cutting the cove on crown molding.


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Beehive*

The bees won't know the difference. 
If you have 12 or more to make, make it easy on yourself. 
I think I would use Marine plywood to make a beehive. 
If painted and maintained, I think it would last 30 years.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*on the table saw and radial saw*

on the table saw:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iw1XQw5TqeE

on the radial saw:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyxfRMMD7SU


----------



## ruthless1 (Feb 18, 2011)

you guys rock !!! i was on the path but this is going to speed that thought process up big time ....i was picturing a jig that either swung up off the table or plunged .. in my head it was to little arms on a frame on either side so when i rotated the lever which would have been feed through both sides it would raise the board up and travel backwards at the same time ...just linkage but only one link....but the slider table saw jig it the way i will be going about things ....thanks alot guys i greatly appreciate the help !!!


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

ruthless1 said:


> one more thing ..i read on a chair building site to use a grinder to do the scooping out but they have the correct sanding disc to do so . lol i did not had an abrasive wheel that created alot of fine dust snd ugly scoops . but i do think that if i did have the right disc i could get real close or close enough


I think you may be on to something with the grinder. I have used one to scoop out seat bottoms on chairs. Probably like your video. For that I used a disk with very coarse grit.

Not sure there is any disk that will not put out fine sawdust. I have used a stripper disk to clean the running gear on my boat, but have not tried it on wood. (Norton Rapid Strip 
*Norton 07660704015 Wheel Non-Woven Depressed Center 4-1/2"*



George


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I was thinking on the line of having a ramp on the right side of the table saw blade, using a dado stack, slide the piece down the ramp, which will form the cupped part, then the part will be flat on the saw which will form the dado part. You would need to make some serious stops to keep from getting hurt though, that could get scary quick.

OK, I didn't watch the video until now. That is kinda like what I had in mind except with a dado stack it will make the other cut also.

Man I got to say that guy not locking the jig into place was dangerous, the blade could have grabbed it and something bad could have happened, he should have clamped that jig down someway.


----------



## ruthless1 (Feb 18, 2011)

BigJim i hear ya ..lol i got lost in all the beehive videos awhile ago and i would have never thought that that hand grab was such a big deal to the beehive community ...but it is and there are some crazies out there...one guy did it with a skillsaw ...no jig just plunged it in from holding it up above the frame while standing on the frame and controlling the saw with his knee ...well proped it up on his knee and started scooping away :/ !!!! looked like a serious accident waiting to happen ...dude was off his rocker ...if you get real real bored and want to kill some brain cells ...take a look at that video ....it will be one of the connected vids on pretty much all of them ...but yeah the sled sliding down is the def.way to go with out a doubt ...CLAMPED DOWN of course


----------

