# Finished restoring my Stanley Bedrock #607 *Pic heavy!



## afx (Feb 5, 2010)

I debated on making a thread and updating it but I thought it would be better to just let it all out at once since it took me so long to finish. 

To start, I bought an old Stanley Bedrock off craigslist for $40 HERE

*Pictures of the plane he emailed to me before I bought it.*


















It was in rough shape to say the least, but it looked structurally solid. First thing I needed to do was get rid of the rust. I bought a bottle of EVAPORUST from Harbor Freight for like $8 and that was one of the best purchases I could have made. Since the plane is nearly 2 feet long, I didn't have anything I could soak it in so I just used one of those vacuum food saver bags.

*More detailed photos before the rust removal.*









































*The bag set up*









Next was getting the Japanning off. That was easy since I have a sandblaster. I just gave it a once over and went straight to priming. I used an engine primer. I've read that people who do this more than I do think highly of the engine primer and high heat engine paint VS Japanning. I skipped photos of me painting it. Actually, I forgot heh.











Then came the fun part. While the 8 coats of engine paint were curing, I made a new tote and handle since the old ones were broken. When I made the handle, I wanted to make it a bit thicker than normal since I have sausage fingers. I also wanted to give it a grip because of the way my hand tends to rest on hand planes (my pinky is usually hanging off the side) I cut both the tote and handle out of Bocote because it's so rigid and finishes up super nice. Funny thing was I cut them both off of a large blank of wood and the color turned out so different. 


















*This photo is what I used to make the grip, I used a hand file and stuck my turning sandpaper to it. It worked perfectly.*

























*I also made the handle a little thicker. MUCH more comfortable*


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## afx (Feb 5, 2010)

I finished up to this point about a month ago, I spent the last month (when I had time) tuning it and making it flat, great thing was that it didn't require much in the flattening department. I took each individual screw and polished it clean. I spent a good amount of time getting the sides and bottom polished up, I even cleaned out the corrugated valleys on the bottom. 

I decided to keep the original blade,chip breaker but I might move to an IBC or HOCK kit later on. I sharpened the blade on my TORMEK and it cuts beautifully. I might just keep it as is.

*Final Product*

































































*THANKS FOR LOOKING!*


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## adot45 (Jul 8, 2013)

Looks Great!, Nice job :thumbsup:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Beautiful, absolutely beautiful. $40, man you stole that plane. You did a great job restoring it.


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## acowboy (Nov 20, 2013)

Am impressed, great job, hope to see more of your work.


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## afx (Feb 5, 2010)

jiju1943 said:


> Beautiful, absolutely beautiful. $40, man you stole that plane. You did a great job restoring it.



Thanks bud, I appreciate it.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Nice score on the plane and great job on the restoration.

One of the few benefits of the corrugated sole is perhaps easier to flatten.

I also like to use thicker tote and knob when I make replacements. Easier to grip.

Before you replace the blade consider replacing the chip breaker. This may give you better bang for the buck than a new blade.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=66868&cat=1,41182

Another forum member ryan50hrl was having issues with shavings getting under the cap iron of a vintage Stanley No. 5. I sent him a different vintage blade and cap iron to try and also a Veritas new cap iron. He really like the Veritas and said it was a no contest better performer, so bought this from me.


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## Ted Tolstad (Feb 20, 2011)

Very nice....looks great


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