# 45 degree bevel cross cut sled



## chueyjose (Jul 8, 2015)

Hi everybody,
Is it ok to turn a dedicated 90 degree cross cut sled into a 45 degree bevel sled. As in a dedicated sled for both? Or will it mess up the sled. Sled is originally dedicated 90 and wanted to add a 45 bevel onto it... thanks!


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

45 degree sleds are common. 
Sleds can be made fixed or adjustable. 
Be safe.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

If you are talking about a miter cut, you could cut a piece of wood at a 45 deg. angle and have a way to attach it to the sled, when you need it.
I made a separate miter sled for small picture frame cuts. Works great.


----------



## chueyjose (Jul 8, 2015)

No I don't mean a miter cut.. I mean at 45 degree with the blade tilted (using same original 90 crosscut sled)


----------



## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If you have sleds that cut accurate 90 degree cuts leave them alone, making 45 degree cuts requires an entirely different layout so it would be wise to make a new sled. As the sketch shows the fence will likely be in the way so will have to be removed.

I see it is not a miter cut, still I would not ruin your fence. I would make one that runs beside your blade not around it.


----------



## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

Am guessing you want to cut 45 degree angles from the vertical plane on a 90 degree crosscut sled. IMO it could be done, but would be easier to make a simple dedicated 45 degree sled, and mark it as such. Be safe.


----------



## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

One of the benefits of a crosscut sled is the zero clearance aspect. If you use the sled with the blade tilted, it will ruin the zero clearance benefit.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

That's where a sled with a removable plate would be nice.
Unless I was dealing with small parts to bevel, I would just use the miter gauge.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*make a separate sled*

The blade only tilts left, as a rule. So a 90 degree fence with the blade tilted over to 45 degrees is pretty simple.
In order to achieve the opposite bevel, you'll have to flip one side over. Assure that both edges are parallel or your bevel will be cattywompous. 
woodwhisperer made this one:


----------



## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

chueyjose said:


> No I don't mean a miter cut.. I mean at 45 degree with the blade tilted (using same original 90 crosscut sled)


Yes You can still use your sled. The blade will cut into your sled though. 
It's still not a problem.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Toolman50 said:


> Yes You can still use your sled. The blade will cut into your sled though.
> It's still not a problem.



I agree. Just tilt blade and cut another slot.


----------



## velocipede (Jan 15, 2015)

You can do as suggested and just tilt the blade to make a new slot, but unless you have a replaceable insert on your sled, will lose the 'zero clearance' benefit of the sled.


----------



## chueyjose (Jul 8, 2015)

What do you mean by the "zero clearance " benefit?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the kerf is the key*

Your first cut into the surface of the sled makes a "zero clearance" kerf. No small scraps will fall down in between the blade and the kerf and it makes for a tearout free cut on any other pieces you place in the sled.

If you now tilt the blade over to 45 degrees, you may widen the kerf a a bit and it will no longer be zero clearance, but it depends on the geometry of the mechanism inside the saw.... it may not?

It would be best to make a separate sled for the 45 degree bevels cuts to be certain.


----------



## chueyjose (Jul 8, 2015)

Yes I know exactly what u mean.... I'll just make a dedicated 45 bevel sled. Thanks guys


----------



## redbeard_woodworker (Jan 5, 2018)

*Adding a 45 degree bevel cut to a 90 degree crosscut sled.*

Raising this issue again because I was considering doing the same thing - adding a 45 degree bevel cut to my current 90 degree sled. 

I don't think you will lose the zero clearance as the only places the blade slots (or kerfs) will meet is on the bottom side of the sled where the blade contacts the sled at the first point. On the top side of the sled, and on the fence, the kerfs will be separated by a small distance and amount of uncut material. Specifically they should be separated by a distance equal to the width of the material of your sled minus the blade kerf. For instance, if your sled base is built out of 3/4 inch ply or MDF, and you are using a full kerf 1/8 in blade, the 45 degree slot should be 3/4'' - 1/8'' = 5/8'' away from the 90 degree slot. 

Am I missing something?


----------



## Dodis (Feb 25, 2013)

I am sure you will loose the zero-clearance of your sled. Every tablesaw I have seen has the blade arbor & motor mounted on trunions that put the center of the tilt action at the intersection of the blade and the table surface. So what you would end up with is a "V" cut in your sled. the two cuts will meet at the bottom surface of the sled, leaving an opening at the top. Then you will only have zero-clearance on each side of the gap you created, and a nice channel on top for small off-cuts to fall into to cause kickback or binding.


----------



## barri (Jan 3, 2018)

You mean something like this ...

I tried having a super sled that does everything but it just doesn't work as well as individual sleds, so I have a crosscut sled, bevel sled (as shown) and miter sled


----------

