# Getting a Perfect Join



## elrod08 (Jul 1, 2011)

I've been making tables out of 2 inch thick board that are 7 to 8 ft. long. I keep running into the same problem with all tables. 

When i dry fit the table, there are always gaps in the seam in the middle. I run them through the joiner. also i tried hand planing them afterwards with the two pieces clamped together, one on top of the other. no luck. although the board will meet up perfectly in some places along the length of seam, there are gaps in other areas along the lenght of the seam which i have to use woood filler which makes it look amaturish in my opinion. could this be due to slight warps in the board. 

Any tricks of the trade to prevent this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

elrod08 said:


> I've been making tables out of 2 inch thick board that are 7 to 8 ft. long. I keep running into the same problem with all tables.
> 
> When i dry fit the table, there are always gaps in the seam in the middle. I run them through the joiner. also i tried hand planing them afterwards with the two pieces clamped together, one on top of the other. no luck. although the board will meet up perfectly in some places along the length of seam, there are gaps in other areas along the lenght of the seam which i have to use woood filler which makes it look amaturish in my opinion. could this be due to slight warps in the board.
> 
> Any tricks of the trade to prevent this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...


The trick is to get both edges straight, or at least mated with no gaps. It's likely your technique with the jointer. Have you tried straight edging on the table saw?












 







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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

+1 on trying a TS sled. It could be your technique with the jointer but it could also be your jointer. It helps to have a reasonably long jointer bed to get an 8' straight edge. 

As for clamping together and hand planing that too requires a substantial plane. At least a No 7 but an 8 would be better. Also keep in mind that when using that method you have to flip the opposing board to to achieve a flat glue line after.

Good luck!

~tom


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Straight Line Rip Jig*

You might want to try this jig out. I'm not near my shop, so I cant get a photo but this should give you the idea. Out of all the jigs you ever build, this will be one of the simplest. If you have a decent table saw and blade, give it a shot, you might be amazed.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Tony B said:


> You might want to try this jig out. I'm not near my shop, so I cant get a photo but this should give you the idea. Out of all the jigs you ever build, this will be one of the simplest. If you have a decent table saw and blade, give it a shot, you might be amazed.


~tom


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## elrod08 (Jul 1, 2011)

*Jigs and planer use for table joints*



firemedic said:


> +1 on trying a TS sled. It could be your technique with the jointer but it could also be your jointer. It helps to have a reasonably long jointer bed to get an 8' straight edge.
> 
> As for clamping together and hand planing that too requires a substantial plane. At least a No 7 but an 8 would be better. Also keep in mind that when using that method you have to flip the opposing board to to achieve a flat glue line after.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone! I have a hand held Bosh planer. if i use this method or the jig method, I need to flip the opposing board in either case and the plane it with the hand planer or rip cut along a 2x4 8 foot long jig? I have used a long aluminum straight edge as a jig or fence to keep straight. However, it is not as solid as a 2X4X4 jig would be. Thanks for everyones input.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

elrod08 said:


> Thanks everyone! I have a hand held Bosh planer.


I wouldn't attempt to straightedge two long board edges for a mating joint with a handheld power planer.












 







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## elrod08 (Jul 1, 2011)

yeah thanks. I just straight edged with a power saw. had a 6 foot long X three eights wide gap when i dry fit the table pieces. so then i clamped the 2 boards back together and tried the hand planer. even worse now. I'm new at this and don't generally run into this with shorter boards. thanks...


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

Sounds like your technique is sound. You had the same issues with the shorter boards, it just becomes more noticeable with the longer boards.

My suggestion: plane 2 joining boards at the same time. "fold" the boards together so the edges are lined up. That way, if you're not at a perfect 90 degrees, the boards will be flat when joined. When planing, use a real good straight edge and take off the high spots until it's flat.


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## elrod08 (Jul 1, 2011)

Brink said:


> Sounds like your technique is sound. You had the same issues with the shorter boards, it just becomes more noticeable with the longer boards.
> 
> My suggestion: plane 2 joining boards at the same time. "fold" the boards together so the edges are lined up. That way, if you're not at a perfect 90 degrees, the boards will be flat when joined. When planing, use a real good straight edge and take off the high spots until it's flat.





> I think we found out what it was. our jointer bed from hf is not quite large enough to be running 8 ft boards across. plus the blade is supposed to match up level with the exiting end of the machine which it wasn't. We adjusted it and will give it a shot. Thanks again everyone!


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