# riving knife



## goodyt (Dec 24, 2010)

I have a Craftsman TS (#221140) and would like to remove the saw guard. Does anyone on this forum know of an after-market riving knife set-up that might work on this brand/model of table saw?


Thanks in advance for your responses.


Tom Goodson


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*This one?*

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...7/0744600/50036267/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

I have a similar one and I just removed the plastic guard and left the splitter. I removed the rivet and the anti-kickback pawls. It's best for ripping when the workpiece closes back on the blade and causes a kickback.  bill

After market ones are Bork 
http://theborkstore.com/product.sc?productId=9&categoryId=2
and Shark 
http://www.leestyron.com/sharksplitter.php


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

woodnthings said:


> It's best for ripping when the workpiece closes back on the blade and causes a kickback.  bill


A riving knife can help, but it's not a fool proof avoidance of a problem. Wood can close up and bind on the riving knife. Or, can "walk" to one side causing pressure against the fence and blade.












 







.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I've had a BORK on my saw for over two years, and added BORK Blade Guard since fall...they both work great, and will fit your saw. Bob Ross, the inventor of the BORK is great to deal with.


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## goodyt (Dec 24, 2010)

Many thanks for the quick responses. I have looked at the Bork (on Youtube), and I am not certain how/if this device would work on my model of Craftsman.

Bill, I too removed the blade guard, but left the pawls attached to the splitter. The issue may well be my lack of mechanical expertise, and very surely is somewhat impacted by my depth of general tool (saw) knowledge. However, Mr. Ross' statement that a liability waiver is required to buy does cause me some trepidation.

I can certainly see his position, but it worries me that the item would require such caveats. Bottom line: I am just a bit scared of the saw, so am trying to get more comfortable.

Again, thanks for the input. Guess I will keep looking.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

goodyt said:


> Many thanks for the quick responses. I have looked at the Bork (on Youtube), and I am not certain how/if this device would work on my model of Craftsman.
> 
> Bill, I too removed the blade guard, but left the pawls attached to the splitter. The issue may well be my lack of mechanical expertise, and very surely is somewhat impacted by my depth of general tool (saw) knowledge. However, Mr. Ross' statement that a liability waiver is required to buy does cause me some trepidation.
> 
> ...


You have a few problems then one respect for a saw is healthy fear is not. Fear can cause accidents. 

The reason he needs a waiver I'm sure is if you remove the guard and put the BORK on it does not prevent you from losing a digit it just helps with kickback. If it fits your saw It is a good device I would prefer it over a splitter but I would suggest you get the blade guard also. It only takes one unknown thing to cause an accident and without the guard your looking at blade to hand contact being much more likely. 

Getting comfortable with a saw is not the time to take the guard off. Use the guard practice your safety procedures and get over your fear but respect the saw it rates that for sure. If your not sure about the safety procedures then ask we would gladly help you learn.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

There's nothing inherent about the BORK that would cause you to have an accident. It will fit your saw and does improve safety but doesn't prevent people from doing dumb things with their saws. Bob's just trying to protect himself from frivolous law suits like the famed Ryobi suit, and is doing so by offering the BORK only through wwing sites where there tends to be more seasoned veterans.

There are no other aftermarket riving knives that I know of.


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## goodyt (Dec 24, 2010)

Okay. Again, thanks for all of the great, and straight-forward feed back.

Scott, thanks for your input, as I assume your statement to mean that your saw is the same as mine. Also, appreciate your comment about Mr. Ross. One last question to you, "how did you get the kerf cut so far back in the throat plate?" It appears that this is a necessary step in order for the knife to have enough opening in the plate.

RR, I agree with you completely. I have used a table saw many times over the years. However, I have never had a kick-back. 

Guess it is kind of like when I rode motorcycles in my younger years, "there are two kinds of bike riders, those that have laid their bikes down and those that will lay them down." After laying mine down, I was much less bothered by the idea. Guess my fear/anticipation of the kick-back is over-stated by never having experienced it.

Thanks again for all input from everyone. I am off to buy the knife from Mr. Ross. :yes:


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

goodyt said:


> Okay. Again, thanks for all of the great, and straight-forward feed back.
> 
> RR, I agree with you completely. I have used a table saw many times over the years. However, I have never had a kick-back.
> 
> ...


I guess I wasn't as straight forward as you think. I suggested the guard also because of hand to blade contact. I'm assuming that you haven't experienced that either. It's a tad worse then kickback trust me.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Goodyt - No, my saw is a Shop Fox 3hp saw, but I know that Bob Ross and others have successfully fitted the BORK to the 22114 and 22124....it's also listed as one of the saws that it will fit on his website. 

I cut the zero clearance insert first with an 8" saw blade to start the cut, then with a 10" blade to full height, then finished the area for the riving knife with a jigsaw. It's not hard to do, but is critical for good performance from the BORK.


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## AlWood (Apr 18, 2010)

knotscott said:


> I've had a BORK on my saw for over two years, and added BORK Blade Guard since fall...they both work great, and will fit your saw. Bob Ross, the inventor of the BORK is great to deal with.


Knot, I saw your review on BORK fixtures, and I guess you know by now a lot about Bob Ross products & his capabilities. So I am wondering if he has (or can do for little extra) those riving knives (and bases for blade guards) made of steel instead of aluminum of the same thickness. (A mild strength steel will do...). 

The reason I am asking is that I don't trust aluminum as much as steel. The main thing is that I would like to have sort of a string capability in my knife or splitter. (I've made a set of splitters of different hight for my table saw, using mild steel, and they work beautifully, whereas when I tried aluminum, they were much worse -- they cannot hold bending pressure, and once you over-push them, they bend irreversibly...)


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Hi Al - It's hard to say whether he would or not, but he seems like a really nice guy (never met him in person), so it's worth dropping him an email and asking.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Twenty bucks plus a ZC insert. 

http://microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/

I've had one on my contractor saw. (The cabinet saw uses a different style.)

The splitter is very easy to install and use. It removes in seconds. I found that making my own ZC insert from Baltic Birch was probably the best rather than a $30 or $40 ZC insert blank.

If you really want to go the inexpensive route, make a ZC from Baltic Birch. Then put the ZC on the drill press and use a 1/8" (Full Kerf) or 3/32" (Thin Kerf) to set the drill press fence keeping the ZC saw kerf aligned with the drill bit. Then drill a hole 1/64" smaller than the saw kerf in the out feed side of the ZC insert. Use some CA glue to glue the drill bit in place leaving the shank sticking up by about 3/4" to 1" above the surface of the ZC. I usually use a Dremel to cut the twist part of the drill bit off the bottom side of the ZC. This works very well although the magazines won't publish it for legal reasons.


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