# Craftsman Radial Arm Saw



## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

A guy at work said that he had some tools that he was selling because he is moving out of town. He is retiring after many years with the company. He asked if I would be interested in buying any of them. So today, I went out to his house to see what he had to offer.
An old Craftsman, made in USA radial arm saw, with the original manual (revised edition 1969) a set of guards, a sanding wheel attachment, a full set of moulding cutting heads, a miter vise, the stand, and a large box of assorted veneers.









































$100.00


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## woodchux (Jul 6, 2014)

That looks like a good bargain, but IMO it would depend on three things: first - is it in operating condition, (2) - does the $ fit within your budget, (3) - will you use it enough to justify the $ and the space it will take in your "shop"? It is almost two decades old, and parts may be difficult to find if you need them, but you can always sell it for what you paid. Be safe.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

woodchux said:


> That looks like a good bargain, but IMO it would depend on three things: first - is it in operating condition, (2) - does the $ fit within your budget, (3) - will you use it enough to justify the $ and the space it will take in your "shop"? It is almost two decades old, and parts may be difficult to find if you need them, but you can always sell it for what you paid. Be safe.


Agreed Woodchux. The budget is definitely not a problem. The space is also no a problem. I will have to do a little reorganizing, but I'm no stranger to that. As far as the working order of the machine, she runs like a dream and purrs like a kitten. A really loud kitten. :laughing:
I'm hoping to make the saw a useable addition in the shop and it was nice to find one that is still quality built "made in USA" steel instead of made in China plastic. The cord in one section is frayed a little, with copper exposed, but considering that I am an electrician, I have no worries about replacing that wire.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*parts? what parts?*

You won't need any parts. If so I have them. I ahve "several" of those old Cman saws and love 'em. I interchange the motor carriages and put different blades on each one, so I don't have to change the blades. You know why ....3 table saws bolted together.


I made a router mount inside one of the carriages, for making dados and grooves and keyhole slots etc. AS long as you set it up right you will enjoy it. Check out My Albums for photo of mine. $100 for all that is a great deal, and it looks very well maintained. Any issue... post them here.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks Bill. I knew I could count on you buddy.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I took the saw apart today and cleaned it up a bit. The previous owner seemed to like wet lubricants and there was a lot of gummed up sawdust in there. Either way, I finished cleaning it and hit it with some dry lubes and took it for a test spin. It needs a new blade, but other than that, it runs beautifully. The blade is an older Craftsman carbide tipped crosscut blade. I know a guy that does some great work sharpening blades. I may get him to sharpen the blade instead of replacing it. Something for me to think about I guess.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*older Craftsman blade ...*

Beware of the older blades with "positive" hook angle. They will want to "self feed" , not a good idea. New RAS blades ... it will say on the package for miter saws and radial arm saws, will have a "negative" hook angle and not self feed.

That saw is a beaut. :thumbsup: One thing to check is for play in the carriage, laterally. Those four V groove bearings on top are what you can adjust. The 2 on the left are on small cams and by turning the bolt you can snug or loosen the "play" from side to side. 

Other than that.... I always align the fence to the blade in a 90 degree locked position. Just make certain there is no play in the arm when it's locked. You can square the fence by using those irritating screw clamper thingies OR just use a large sheet of plywood extended to the right, rather than stock size for mush easier crosscutting longer planks to length. I love mine that way. Once you have the plywood down screw a 1 x 3 on edge on either side of the blade path and then lower the blade and cut right through the whole shootin' match. you will have a very precise kerf location which makes for more accurate cut offs.

I could write a book on those buggers .... wait, I almost did.:no:

That saw probably qualifies for the new table and "safety" blade guard which is way better than the one you have:
http://radialarmsawrecall.com/


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## herrwood (Mar 23, 2014)

I have a similar saw from the late 70's that I recently picked up on CL for $75 so with the extras your price sounds right. I use it for some crosscut and dado and with a sanding disc. 
Right now I have a 8" wire brush on it to clean up some rusty tools and it works great. I do recommend a face shield with the wire brush.


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