# Help needed finding a glue to bond wood to PVC



## jcaulley74 (Jan 19, 2010)

Hello all,

I am putting together a project that was originally designed to be all PVC. During testing, the load bearing part of the PVC failed so now I am trying to replace the load bearing point with wood to make it stronger and less susceptible to cold weather. I will try to explain how the joint is constructed.

The piece that is being replaced was originally a 1/2" PVC pipe. I am now going to use a 7/8" Oak round dowell. One end of the dowell will be inserted into a standard 1/2" PVC slip fitting and must be bonded to this fitting. The other end is inserted into a 7/8" hole drilled into the side wall of a 1" pipe. The hole does not go all the way through the 1" pipe. The end of the dowell will rest against the opposite interior inner wall of the 1" pipe. When in use, the wooden dowell will be in a horizontal position supported to a fixture from the side with the slip fitting. The 1" pipe will be hanging from the dowell with 12' of length below it. There is probably 20-30 lbs of weight that will be supported by the dowell. 

So then the question, what kind of glue would be the best to use in this situation?

Thanks in advance.

Jared


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

Epoxy and both surfaces need to be very rough. And clean, clean
clean. Use acetone to clean the oak. 
If possible a mechanical fastener as well, roll pin?

I have a boat stand that failed and I put the dowel inside the
PVC with epoxy.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Dimension clarification*

....... When in use, the wooden dowell will be in a horizontal position supported to a fixture from the side with the slip fitting. The 1" pipe will be hanging from the dowell with* 12' of length* below it. There is probably 20-30 lbs of weight that will be supported by the dowell. ....

Don't you mean *12"* length? 

I would drive wooden dowels into all the pipes myself. PCV is not very structural in shear or bending. All the forces occur at the joints, if I understand you explanation. PVC is strong in compression when loaded directly in shorter lengths. You can add some stiffness by plugging the PVC with wooden dowels. A diagram or photo will help with this. :thumbsup: bill


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> ....... When in use, the wooden dowell will be in a horizontal position supported to a fixture from the side with the slip fitting. The 1" pipe will be hanging from the dowell with* 12' of length* below it. There is probably 20-30 lbs of weight that will be supported by the dowell. ....
> 
> Don't you mean *12"* length?
> 
> I would drive wooden dowels into all the pipes myself. PCV is not very structural in shear or bending. All the forces occur at the joints, if I understand you explanation. PVC is strong in compression when loaded directly in shorter lengths. You can add some stiffness by plugging the PVC with wooden dowels. A diagram or photo will help with this. :thumbsup: bill


Great minds think alike!:laughing::laughing::laughing:

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## jcaulley74 (Jan 19, 2010)

Here are some pictures of the device. I really meant "12 feet", as you should be able to see from the picture. In the close up, you should be able to see the smaller section of 1/2" pipe that is horizontal. That is the piece that failed.


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## Nate1778 (Mar 10, 2008)

I agree with others here, epoxy is the way to go. I have used it with PVC pipe to construct devices that accelerate Solanum tuberosum to very high velocities and the joints regularly go through momentarily 55-70psi without fail. Key is to rough up the PVC and then clean. 

If you have the capability it might be worth your time to make a wood donut to go into the larger pipe giving the dowel more to pivot on then the initial entry point.


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