# Adding soft/round edge on plywood



## Goldglv (Jun 24, 2009)

I'm building a simple toy chest for my 2 girls of out of Birch Ply, had a question about the top. I don't want to have any sharp corners so I wanted to route some type of profile to smooth the edge.

I was thinking of using poplar, routing the edge on that and then glue/nailing it to all 3 sides of the plywood edge of the top. Should I miter the corners or will this still create somewhat of a 'corner' that may be sharp? I'd like the top to appear seamless.

I'm painting the toy chest, was also wondering if I could just route the profile in the plywood, prime and then paint. Would this hide the ply's?

Or is there a better way to do this? Thanks for all your ideas.....


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## BigBull (Feb 10, 2010)

I personally would edge the plywood with poplar or something equal. Then route the edge of that with a small roundover bit. Say 1/4". Also miter the corners (it just looks better) and round those corners as well. I'd use a sanding block here). This is just me tho I'm sure some others will chime in. Be sure to show us pictures when you have it done. Good luck with the build.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Just profiling the plywood edge still leaves it easy to fray. I would add a wood edge to the plywood, and then do the profiling. It's easier to glue and fasten square stock than one with a profile.












 







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## Goldglv (Jun 24, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> Just profiling the plywood edge still leaves it easy to fray. I would add a wood edge to the plywood, and then do the profiling. It's easier to glue and fasten square stock than one with a profile.
> .



I thought about this but had a question.....if I glue and nail the poplar to the plywood first then I wouldn't be able to route a profile since the router bit would come in contact with the nails, right? How would I get around this?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Goldglv said:


> I thought about this but had a question.....if I glue and nail the poplar to the plywood first then I wouldn't be able to route a profile since the router bit would come in contact with the nails, right? How would I get around this?


Glue and just clamp, or can you tack it where the profile isn't being machined. You could also seat the nails below the machining surface.












 







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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

I'd make a 1" radius curve on the corners, then use a 1/4" roundover bit on the top edge of the lid. If you are using good quality birch ply you can probably get by without adding poplar trim to the edges. You'll have to apply several coats of paint, with light sanding between coats, to successfully hide any evidence of the plys, but it can be done! Consider adding some Flotrol (I think that's the name) to the paint. Any good paint store will have it. It will make the paint go on nice and smooth and minimize brush marks. I think Flotrol is for Latex paint and there's a similarly named product for oil based paint.

Check out: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kjhart0133/sets/72157623030869058/ This is a desk I made entirely of Home Depot plywood. The top is two sheets of plywood laminated together (a 3/4" and a 1/2") and edged in solid oak. This oak edging is the only non-plywood material in the whole thing. I painted it with four coats of latex and there are no visible plys anywhere.

Good luck and post some pics.

Kevin H.


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## mgroters (Mar 8, 2018)

Hey Kevin, I just read your post here. I'm trying to make a table top out of some sanded plywood laminated to a 1/4 inch sheet of birch ply for the very top. I wouldn't necessarily mind the plys showing because I like the look but I'm not planning to paint it, could I just Cut the roundover on the finished laminated piece, use a template for the corners and then put a bunch of coats of oil finish on the plys to seal it up then polyurethane the thing? Would that seal the plys up as well? Anyway curious if you had any thoughts based on your post. 

Matt


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

That post by kjhart0133 is over 6 years old.

He is still around though as he hast visited the board in Early February.

George


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

mgroters said:


> Hey Kevin, I just read your post here. I'm trying to make a table top out of some sanded plywood laminated to a 1/4 inch sheet of birch ply for the very top. I wouldn't necessarily mind the plys showing because I like the look but I'm not planning to paint it, could I just Cut the roundover on the finished laminated piece, use a template for the corners and then put a bunch of coats of oil finish on the plys to seal it up then polyurethane the thing? Would that seal the plys up as well? Anyway curious if you had any thoughts based on your post.
> 
> Matt


Matt,
1. You'll need to make sure the 1/4 birch ply for the top is well laminated/glued to the underlying (3/4"?) plywood. That may well require some heavy weights in the middle of the table top and clamps around the edge. I used 3/4" hardwood veneered plywood on the top and 1/2" ordinary plywood on the bottom. I then used a roller to spread glue on both pieces, screwed the bottom to the top on an eight inch grid, and finally used about a million c-clamps around the edges. After all that I trimmed and squared the edges to the final dimension. It is VERY difficult to to first cut both pieces of plywood to the exact dimensions and then try to glue them together accurately. I cut both top pieces about a half inch oversize and then trim to exact size after the laminating process is done.

2. I'm not much of a finisher, but I think your plan to use a template for the corners and a round-over bit for the top edge will work. The exposed plys on the sides of the table top will absorb A LOT of oil finish and will take many coats to get a smooth surface. Are you talking about using an oil "finish" as opposed to an oil "stain?" I would query one of the experts on this forum about the best way to finish it but I think you can use poly on top of an oil finish as long as the oil finish is well cured.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Kevin H.


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