# attaching wood handles to hand made grilling tools



## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

i guess this would be a form f joinery. How should i go about ataching wood handles to grilling tools. the stock the tools are made from is round. i guessed drill hole in end of hndle and epoxy?


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

MidGAOutdoor said:


> i guess this would be a form f joinery. How should i go about ataching wood handles to grilling tools. the stock the tools are made from is round. i guessed drill hole in end of hndle and epoxy?


You answered your own question midGA. Or you could use super glue. Much cheaper.


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## MidGAOutdoor (Apr 7, 2011)

oh ok thanks man


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Epoxy will fill the voids and hold over the long run. Lots of people making tool handles and it's the same deal. I just made two using epoxy and so far they have been great.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I made a turning saw with handles that have a 3/8" pin inserted inline with handle. There is a lot of tension on the pins so what I did was cut a few angled slots in the pin and roughed it up with sand paper to give the epoxy something to hold onto.

Next go round I would thread the pin and tap the handle so that it screws in and has even more to bite. Be sure to slot the threads though to let air out and not squeeze the epoxy out.

Good luck


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

Fire medic is right, having the fit too tight can make it hard to push the object into the hole. I blew out the back of a mortise in a chair last week as the tenon was too tight and the glue sealed it off blowing out the back when clamped. It's not just the air but the excess glue that need a way out. Sometimes you can make certain the hole is a bit deep to collect the extra glue. Too tight a fit can be a problem. 
Epoxy like the 5 minute stuff is good for handles. Cyanoacrylate even the thicker stuff can or does crystallize and lose some strength over long periods.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

How rustic would you like them to look?
I use willow for file handles = drill a hole and drop in the tapered end, a few hard taps on the bench = done.

I build some wood carving tools, up to an 18" handle.
For the planer knife, I cut a sloppy tang slot, gooped it 
full of some sort of epoxy metal (was black color) and pushed the tang into that. Forced a strip of wood into each side of the tang slot and cleaned up the squeeze-out the next day.

I level split slabs of western red cedar with that knife. It follows the slight curves which a hand plane can't do. No sign whatsoever of it letting go.

Really bang and scuff up the tang parts. Needs to be some
"tooth" to sit in the filler. Clamp in the vise and get busy with a big coarse file.
I'd drill the hole just a little bit bigger than the tang.
Fill 1/2 with, say, epoxy, and ram in the metal.


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