# Table saw motor keeps tripping



## Danno6102 (Jan 27, 2010)

Just got a used Jet 10" contractor saw (JWTS-10JF) off craigslist & I'm going through it right now aligning & tightening things. I have had some intermittent trouble with the motor tripping (the reset button on the motor itself) when I stop & then restart the saw right away. Was more of an annoyance. Last night I aligned the pulleys, looked like they were off to me. I go to start the saw to cut some test dado's with the new dado set I bought & the motor trips every stinking time now. It'll start to spin, then trip.

I can spin the pulley, belt & blade fairly easily. Is this a start cap that is going bad? Any easy tests I can do to figure out what's wrong with it?

Thanks,
Dan


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Have you tried the saw on a different circuit to rule out the breaker? I'd also try the motor with the belt off.


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

Do the tests mentioned.Is the power cord frayed?


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Danno6102 said:


> Just got a used Jet 10" contractor saw (JWTS-10JF) off craigslist & I'm going through it right now aligning & tightening things. I have had some intermittent trouble with the motor tripping (the reset button on the motor itself) when I stop & then restart the saw right away. Was more of an annoyance. Last night I aligned the pulleys, looked like they were off to me. I go to start the saw to cut some test dado's with the new dado set I bought & the motor trips every stinking time now. It'll start to spin, then trip.
> 
> I can spin the pulley, belt & blade fairly easily. Is this a start cap that is going bad? Any easy tests I can do to figure out what's wrong with it?
> 
> ...


Dan I'm not sure about that model or it's age but does it say made in china on the motor? It probably does. Does it trip a second or 2 after you try to start it? Probably. It could be straining because of misalignment which you said you just completed or a bad bearing or two but you said it spins fairly easy. Take the belt off so there is no load on the motor and try turning it on. If the motor trips it could be a bad overload switch or a bad centrifugal switch but more likely a short in the windings. You would have to take the motor partially apart to check for a short but _*A quick test would be smell the motor if it smells burnt it's shorted.*_ However mine didn't smell but was shorted. If the motor says Made in China you probably will be looking for a new motor. Less likely is it says made in USA or maybe Taiwan which you may be able to have a electric motor shop rewind it. I know they will rewind for USA but not sure about Taiwan and definitely not China.

If the start capacitor was bad it wouldn't start or would drag. If the overload switch is bad it's tripping for no reason and if the start and run windings are making contact (shorted) then your getting power from the start capacitor when your not supposed to and it trips the overload switch.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

knotscott said:


> Have you tried the saw on a different circuit to rule out the breaker? I'd also try the motor with the belt off.





Itchy Brother said:


> Do the tests mentioned.Is the power cord frayed?


If it was tripping the breaker in the service panel it could be either of the things you suggested but since its the overload switch on the motor its more likely a short in the windings or even a bad overload switch. I seen this before unfortunately.


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## Danno6102 (Jan 27, 2010)

never thought about trying it with the belt off. I'll try that tonight & see what happens. So if it trips, we've narrowed it to windings or overload switch & ruled out misalignment. Is the overload switch easily replaceable?

Power cord is good. It is the switch on the motor that pops. So far the breaker in the service panels has not tripped.

It's only 3 years old & the guy said he didn't use it much. He's a contractor & bought it to use on job sites. Needless to say this saw isn't very portable, so it just sat in his shop most of the time.


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## robertd (Jan 28, 2010)

Sounds like to me the start capacitors are bad. If they do not hold a charge for the startup the motor will pull what it needs to start from the line voltage and the amount of amps will spike to way over the breaker limit. My work shop compressor was doing the same thing and it was drawing 60 amps on startup. 

Bob D


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Danno6102 said:


> never thought about trying it with the belt off. I'll try that tonight & see what happens. So if it trips, we've narrowed it to windings or overload switch & ruled out misalignment. *Is the overload switch easily replaceable?
> *
> Power cord is good. It is the switch on the motor that pops. So far the breaker in the service panels has not tripped.
> 
> *It's only 3 years old & the guy said he didn't use it much. He's a contractor & bought it to use on job sites.* Needless to say this saw isn't very portable, so it just sat in his shop most of the time.



*Yes that witch is pretty easy to replace but take a whiff and see if you smell a burnt smell first.*

*The age of the saw makes it very likely that its a China motor if your lucky a Taiwan made motor. Unfortunately it dont have to be used much to have a winding problem especially for China made motors. The don't use as good of an insulator on the wire when winding and it either wears off or has voids that cause problems.*



robertd said:


> *Sounds like to me the start capacitors are bad. If they do not hold a charge for the startup the motor will pull what it needs to start from the line voltage and the amount of amps will spike to way over the breaker limit.* My work shop compressor was doing the same thing and it was drawing 60 amps on startup.
> 
> Bob D


*
I don't believe it's the start capacitor because if it was it would wind or slow start then trip. If it starts fast and immediately trips then the start capacitors are most likely good. 

I could be wrong but I don't think so.* :laughing:


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## Danno6102 (Jan 27, 2010)

ok. here's what i found out tonight.

Motor = Taiwan

Both pulleys spin freely.

Belt off = no trip, runs fine

Belt on, no blade = no trip, runs fine

single normal blade = trip occassionally

3/4" dado blade = trip every time

I bypassed the button on the motor & everything was fine. it started every time. So my question is, what damage could come of bypassing this switch on the motor permanently?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Simple answer*

Permanent Damage. Somethin ain't right here. Best to have it fixed, probaly just the thermal overload switch...could be loaded with dust, heats up and cuts out when hot. Blow it out first real good.
Switches are cheaper than motors. bill


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

Replace the switch probably just a couple bucks at most. The Taiwan motor is a good thing. You don't find USA motors anymore.


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## woody woodturner (Jul 9, 2010)

its triping under load sounds like the overload contactor is faulty


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## sjhanksaz (Jan 19, 2011)

rrbrown said:


> Replace the switch probably just a couple bucks at most. The Taiwan motor is a good thing. You don't find USA motors anymore.


I have the same Taiwan motor on mine. My trouble is when I hit the start button on my jet saw. The motor hums and then the thermo breaker trips. I year or two ago I had a local shop check the motor and they put a new capacitor in it.

Well it still has the problem.

The only way to start the thing is to lift the motor up slightly then hit the on button and pray. Half the time (getting worse) it starts up. Then I lower the motor and the saw is just fine until I turn it off, then I have to do it all over again. My belt is not pinching anything. Blade and all spins nice, The motor just doesn't kick over.

If it's a new thermo button where can I buy a new one? 

I am running 110 v right now. Will 220 solve my problems and make me want to use the saw instead of sell it.

Thanks


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

I'm thinking along the lines of Bob D. The capacitor. I'd start there.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

JohnK007 said:


> I'm thinking along the lines of Bob D. The capacitor. I'd start there.


I was thinking the same thing....if so, it should be < $10, and is a 5 minute installation.


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## mikkeeh (Jan 22, 2012)

I just bought the same model saw. The first few times it ran fine....then would trip the breaker (on a separate 20A circuit). The thermal reset on the motor was damaged when i got it. Looks like something was dropped on it. I have not replaced it as of yet. I just changed the belt to a anti vibration link belt. Now it trips the breaker 1 out of six starts. Reset the breaker....and it starts ok for 2 or 3 or 4 time...then trips again.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I have to agree that its a bad capacitor. That will cause the kind problems you're having.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

One thing to keep in mind is that it will draw more amperage on start-up with dado attached. The motor needs to overcome more inertia with heavier dado. It may easily run without a blade attached but have an intermittent overload with a blade and any immediate overload with a dado.


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## mikkeeh (Jan 22, 2012)

FWIW: I found that my Jet saw would trip the breaker in the circuit box almost every time when the saw sat overnight in an unheated shop. I replaced the motor...Same problem. I replaced the breaker with a different brand. Was using Homeline by Square D......switched to Seimens.....problem solved. I also had another circuit that would periodically nuisance trip. Changed that breaker..problem solved. Seems Homeline breaker are prone to nuisance tripping when used for motors........interesting


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## Cliff (Feb 5, 2012)

> I have to agree that its a bad capacitor. That will cause the kind problems you're having.


Why? Because it's causing too much inrush?


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## rustixs (Oct 13, 2013)

*What was the verdict?*



Danno6102 said:


> ok. here's what i found out tonight.
> 
> Motor = Taiwan
> 
> ...


My Craftsman 10" is behaving like this. What did you determine was the problem? And how did you fix it. Thanks!


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## Masterjer (Nov 6, 2012)

I had an issue where my Jet saw would not start up. I was worried it was the capacitor as I read in this forum. However, I plugged the saw straight into the outlet rather than using an extension cord, and that solved the problem. Apparently, there was too much voltage drop from the extension cord to charge the capacitor.


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## rustixs (Oct 13, 2013)

*My symptoms are identical*

My saw works without a blade, with a blade, but trips the breaker with a heavier sanding disc. I would like to know specifically what was the trouble when the heavier dado blade caused the tripping in the post above.
It is not an issue of an extension cord.


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