# Piping



## mross61 (Dec 20, 2019)

I was gifted this Grizzly dust collector
It appears to have a 6 inch port.
What do you use for piping? Is 6 inch sewer pipe sufficient? 
I will be collecting dust from a jointer, table saw, band saw and planer.
From my purusing on here I should run 6 inch until I need to step down to either 4 inch or 2 and a half inches.
Blast gates on each machine.

Do I have the general gist of this?









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## johnep (Apr 12, 2007)

How about flexible tubing as sold for dryer and A/C venting.
johnep


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Nice DC. I'd make it stationary unit. As said above, 6" flex dryer pipe straight out of the unit. Then Galv. A/C piping vertically to get to the ceiling for your trunk line. Seal seam and joints with caulking.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Dryer pipe is meant for pressure, not suction ...*



johnep said:


> How about flexible tubing as sold for dryer and A/C venting.
> johnep





djg said:


> Nice DC. I'd make it stationary unit. As said above, 6" flex dryer pipe straight out of the unit. Then Galv. A/C piping vertically to get to the ceiling for your trunk line. Seal seam and joints with caulking.



That's a 3 HP unit if I recall. It will suck the chrome off your trailer ball. I think it will collapse any dryer hose you fit up to it, but I could be wrong. Shop Fox makes a comparable unit which draws 2830 CFM, a bunch:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Shop-Fox-3-HP-Dust-Collector/W1687


You may need to use a 2 or 3 way reducer at the machine. My Jet 1100's had a 2 way reducer, from 6" to 4" . I removed it and replaced with a single 6" to 4" heating supply reducer. That works well for me for the table saws, planers and drum sanders, but only one drawing dust from machine at a time. I ran a 4" PVC pipe under the 3 saws with individual blast gates in the bottom plate so I can choose which saw to draw the dust from. Even then, it will not completely evacuate the cabinet leaving saw dust in all 4 corners.


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## mross61 (Dec 20, 2019)

It is 3 hp. I have a dryer hose temporarily hooked up to the table saw but had to ******* engineer something to the 6 inch port which is leaking like crazy.
Better than nothing at this stage until I can get proper piping.

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## TomCT2 (May 16, 2014)

measure the dust collector outlet carefully, then take a chunk of what you want to reduce to . . . find a local plumbing supply house.
not a big box store - a pro supply place. 

they have rubber adapters / reducers intended to mate up copper, plastic, cast iron, etc. - you'll likely find something suitable - but not for flex hoses....


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## BattleRidge (Jan 8, 2018)

I have a Grizzly G0548Z dust collector with a 6" intake and I also have a Super Dust Deputy cyclone incorporated into my system. The SDD made a huge difference and captures a vast majority of the collected dust before it even makes it to the dust collector, keeping the filter clean and unclogged for a very long time).

After pricing the 6" PVC drain pipe option, the HIGH cost of the fittings turned me away. Since I had a few sections of 4" PVC left over from another project I decided to run two parallel lengths of the 4" instead with 4" PVC wye's (which were much more affordable) with a blast gate and 4" flexible dust collection hose to each machine. The single 6" PVC has an area of 28.27 sq. in. and two 4" PVC pipes have a total area of 25.14 sq. in. so the overall size is quite comparable.

The Super Dust Deputy has a 6" outlet which I connected to the Grizzly with 6" flexible hose and a short piece of 6" PVC. The SDD has a 5" inlet which I connected to a 5" flexible hose and to the two 4" PVC pipes via a wye (the Grizzly came with a three 4" by 6" wye which I adapted to make work).

I have my jointer and bandsaw on one line, and my radial arm saw and a second hose that connects to my table saw, or planer (depending on what is in use). I will often run with either one or two blast gates open at a time and at times with three separate blast gates open simultaneously with great collection still maintained from each machine.

In essence, I have a collection of parts that I initially put together on a trial basis and with economy in mind, and the performance has been quite exceptional so it will likely remain as is for the foreseeable future. I am sure that with modifications I could improve the overall performance and perhaps improve the overall 'numbers' (cfm, etc.), but with the system doing everything I need it to do and more, I see no reason to output additional money that can be used for other workshop needs. 

In short, the 6" PVC would likely be considered a more ideal material (check the fitting prices), but there can be a variety of other alternatives that will do the task as well - and possibly at a much more affordable cost.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

I only use the 6" dryer flex to make a 90 degree bend straight off the DC. Then I go to rigid pipe. No collapse under vacuum as of yet.


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