# 48" clamps



## Parabola (Feb 12, 2015)

First time posting as I'm about to start my first serious woodworking project - a slew of hung cabinets for the garage. I'm trying to buy things that I'll need just for this projects as that seems to be a good motto I've seen touted here a lot. The largest glue up i'll need to do is 43" so i'll need possibly 2 or 4 48" clamps. I've never really done much searching for this so i'm just trying to learn the makes/models at this point and could use some guidance. I don't really see why some would like parallel bar vs pipe vs etc yet. What might be some good starting clamps for this purpose? Price is always something to factor, but i'm not trying to be super cheap about it. Thanks!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Welcome to the club. 

If it were me I would buy 3/4" pipe champ fixtures and go to a plumbing supply house and buy 10' lengths of black pipe. Black pipe is heavier than galvanized and 10' lengths are cheaper. You can just cut them half in two and make two clamps per pipe.


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

I'm with Steve and you can always switch the length of the pipe as needed.


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## RMK Designs (Dec 29, 2011)

Hi I would buy bar clamps also known as pipe clamps. Several companies make them but Pony is probably the most common. Bar clamps are great because you can buy any length of pipe to make any size of clamp. Sizes from 6" to 10' are possible. I even use a coupler to join additional lengths for odd sizes. For your 43" cabinets you will need a 5' clamp. The moveable clamp opposite the screw will need space to clamp. You will also need space to layout your parts and account for any dowels, biscuits or other items. I would also suggest 3/4" pipe clamps as the 1/2" pipe flex too much. As for the type of pipe I use 3/4" galvanized water pipe. You can buy it in many lengths pre threaded. Some will say to use black iron. That works as well but I have found it rusts and may transfer that to your wood. The other clamps out there such as parallel clamps are great also but very pricey and not very versatile with size in mind.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Good pipe clamp ends are 15-17 bucks. A 4 foot length of black pipe was 12 bucks last time I checked. Total clamp cost is 27-30 bucks depending on if your prices are similar. 

I bought 48 inch jorgensen cabinet master parallel clamps for 30 bucks each at menards a few months back. They're twice the clamps that pipe clamps are. 


Now you can't change out the pipe for different lengths, but they do clamp better. 

If it were me...id look for some jorgensens..


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

RMK Designs said:


> Hi I would buy bar clamps also known as pipe clamps. .



Bar clamps and pipe clamps are not at all the same.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Bar clamp









Pipe clamp










Bar clamps are far more ridgid.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

RMK Designs said:


> Hi I would buy bar clamps also known as pipe clamps. Several companies make them but Pony is probably the most common. Bar clamps are great because you can buy any length of pipe to make any size of clamp. Sizes from 6" to 10' are possible. I even use a coupler to join additional lengths for odd sizes. For your 43" cabinets you will need a 5' clamp. The moveable clamp opposite the screw will need space to clamp. You will also need space to layout your parts and account for any dowels, biscuits or other items. I would also suggest 3/4" pipe clamps as the 1/2" pipe flex too much. As for the type of pipe I use 3/4" galvanized water pipe. You can buy it in many lengths pre threaded. Some will say to use black iron. That works as well but I have found it rusts and may transfer that to your wood. The other clamps out there such as parallel clamps are great also but very pricey and not very versatile with size in mind.


I'm not trying to be a know it all, but a bar clamp and pipe clamp are two different things.

Bar clamp


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## RMK Designs (Dec 29, 2011)

Your right I had forgotten about those clamps. Sorry for the confusion. Are they still making bar clamps since I have not seen them for about 15 years?


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Yes they still make them. I've seen Jorgensen, bessey and a few others over the past year or so.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Nobody wants to pay fer em:no: Just ordered 12 48" pipe clamps at work. You think that was killing them with there reaction:smile:


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## RMK Designs (Dec 29, 2011)

I just looked them up and I do have a few of the smaller clutch style bar clamps in the shop. They are just clamps to me I never bothered to look for the proper name. They are the ones with the wooden handled screw. The one you and Big Jim posted I have not used for a long time.


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## Parabola (Feb 12, 2015)

Rebelwork said:


> Nobody wants to pay fer em:no: Just ordered 12 48" pipe clamps at work. You think that was killing them with there reaction:smile:


Ordered from where?

Also, thanks for all the discussion/ideas everyone!


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

mako1 said:


> I'm with Steve and you can always switch the length of the pipe as needed.



Absolutely with Steve and Mako. Pipe clamps are your best bet for a first buy. They are the most versitle option.

You can add bar clamps later if you so desire.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

It goes through channels at work. I order, supervisor submits to purchasing agent and then to plant manager then off to home depot. It's such a simple thing but when your doing millions one must keep these things in order:yes:


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> Good pipe clamp ends are 15-17 bucks. A 4 foot length of black pipe was 12 bucks last time I checked. Total clamp cost is 27-30 bucks depending on if your prices are similar.


You pay that much for pipe clamps? 1/2 fitting are $5 at harbor freight, 3/4 are 8, and a little over 10 gets you a 10 foot length of black iron at Lowes. Where are you buying from? 0.o


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I don't like the harbor freight clamp ends...I was going to buy pony clamps. Much nicer handles and such.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

epicfail48 said:


> You pay that much for pipe clamps? 1/2 fitting are $5 at harbor freight, 3/4 are 8, and a little over 10 gets you a 10 foot length of black iron at Lowes. Where are you buying from? 0.o


Harbor freight clamps are cheaper and work as well as Jorgensen but... I find they are not the same height as the jorgensen and they tend to roll as you have them on the table when clamping. Good yes but not a jorgensen,,,,


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Rebelwork said:


> Harbor freight clamps are cheaper and work as well as Jorgensen but... I find they are not the same height as the jorgensen and they tend to roll as you have them on the table when clamping. Good yes but not a jorgensen,,,,



I don't disagree they're cheaper, and probably work 90% as well, but the machining isn't as good, the threads aren't as smooth, and the qc isn't as good as pony clamps...

But for 10 bucks vs 15 for the heads they're probably fine. That said, the don't come close to a parallel bar clamp.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> I don't disagree they're cheaper, and probably work 90% as well, but the machining isn't as good, the threads aren't as smooth, and the qc isn't as good as pony clamps...
> 
> But for 10 bucks vs 15 for the heads they're probably fine. That said, the don't come close to a parallel bar clamp.


No arguments there my friend. Im one of those guys whos more than happy to do his own quality control if it means saving a buck. Needless to say, i dont own any parallel bar clamps...


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## Parabola (Feb 12, 2015)

Thanks for all the info. I decided on going the pipe from big box store plus pony clamps route. I'll go from there if I think I need more clamping pressure. I liked the modular concept of pipe clamps; that's what ended up winning me over.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Glad we could help!!!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I think most of us use the pipe clamps just because they are cheaper and you can accumulate more of them. The I-bar clamps are a little better clamps but you are pretty much stuck with the sizes they come in.


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

I keep a roll of wax paper around the shop and place a piece under the pipe where it may touch a glue joint on any wood like oak with a high tannin content.This keeps the pipe from staining the wood.


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## Parabola (Feb 12, 2015)

mako1 said:


> I keep a roll of wax paper around the shop and place a piece under the pipe where it may touch a glue joint on any wood like oak with a high tannin content.This keeps the pipe from staining the wood.


Is there a film on the pipes? What is causing this? Is this only on black pipe vs galvanized perhaps?


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

mako1 said:


> I keep a roll of wax paper around the shop and place a piece under the pipe where it may touch a glue joint on any wood like oak with a high tannin content.This keeps the pipe from staining the wood.





Parabola said:


> Is there a film on the pipes? What is causing this? Is this only on black pipe vs galvanized perhaps?


The waxed paper works. New black iron pipe is coated with oil. Old black iron pipe can rust. I just clean them of any oil/grease/dirt, then dry them/ Keep them dry and they won't tend to rust, if rust appears, fine sandpaper takes it off.

As an aside - big box stores charge more for the short lengths of pipe than they do the 10 footers. Last time I bought BI pipe, the 4' length was more than the 10'. The 10' cuts quite easily with a hacksaw!


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## Parabola (Feb 12, 2015)

Alchymist said:


> The waxed paper works. New black iron pipe is coated with oil. Old black iron pipe can rust. I just clean them of any oil/grease/dirt, then dry them/ Keep them dry and they won't tend to rust, if rust appears, fine sandpaper takes it off.
> 
> As an aside - big box stores charge more for the short lengths of pipe than they do the 10 footers. Last time I bought BI pipe, the 4' length was more than the 10'. The 10' cuts quite easily with a hacksaw!


Makes sense. Luckily I'm in AZ where moisture is something we celebrate when it appears twice a year (jk... But seriously). So I'll just remove any oil and keep it dry.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I have numerous pipe clamps, most of which are 1/2 inchers. I have never had any problems with the pipe flexing, but there could always be a first time. Or maybe I just haven't paid close attention.

If you buy the pipe at the big box stores, ask them to cut them for you and thread them. They will do it. 

Also, pick up several of the steel couplings for steel conduit. It is thinner than the pipe couplings and makes it easier to couple them for longer clamping situations.

See examples below.
Mike


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Alchymist said:


> As an aside - big box stores charge more for the short lengths of pipe than they do the 10 footers. Last time I bought BI pipe, the 4' length was more than the 10'. The 10' cuts quite easily with a hacksaw!


Why bother with the hacksaw? Last time i picked up some pipe at lowes the gentleman there was more than happy to slice a 10ft pipe into 3 foot lengths with the handy dandy pipe thingy they have, as well as thread everything for me.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Why bother with the hacksaw? Last time i picked up some pipe at lowes the gentleman there was more than happy to slice a 10ft pipe into 3 foot lengths with the handy dandy pipe thingy they have, as well as thread everything for me.


What happens if you change your mind later or not buying at Lowes? Or you pick up a 7' piece at a yard sale? A hacksaw is a terrible thing to waste.:laughing:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Alchymist said:


> What happens if you change your mind later or not buying at Lowes? Or you pick up a 7' piece at a yard sale? A hacksaw is a terrible thing to waste.:laughing:



But the hack saw doesn't have a motor attached....


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

I have enough pipe to put together six, 20' long clamps.

I prefer my Hargraves.


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## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

ryan50hrl said:


> But the hack saw doesn't have a motor attached....


My Sawzall does. I like saws much better when powered by electric motors.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Mort said:


> My Sawzall does. I like saws much better when powered by electric motors.



Me too.....hand saws are too much work. Lol.


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

I use a metal bandsaw. It cut faster, and cooler than a sawzall. Plus it doesn't shake your teeth out.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Alchymist said:


> What happens if you change your mind later or not buying at Lowes? Or you pick up a 7' piece at a yard sale? A hacksaw is a terrible thing to waste.:laughing:


Hrmm... perhaps i shouldve been more specific. If youre buying new, get the folks at the store to cut it to whatever length you want. I will ever, EVER say someone shouldnt own a nice, high tension hacksaw. Hacksaws are fantastic tools. You dont need one too often in woodworking, but when you need one, you really really need it!


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## mako1 (Jan 25, 2014)

Parabola said:


> Is there a film on the pipes? What is causing this? Is this only on black pipe vs galvanized perhaps?


It has nothing to do with a film on the pipe.The metal and moisture from the glue reacts with the tannin in the oak and will leave a black stain.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Alchymist said:


> ...... The 10' cuts quite easily with a hacksaw!


Last time I checked, my HD would make one cut and one thread free of pipe bought there. Maybe something to keep in mind.

I've got HF pipe clamps, too, but I wish I could afford long Bessey clamps.
The long pipe clamps are heavy and tend to roll a little and sometimes hard to position.

Edit: Ooops, Sorry. I should have read the rest of the thread before responding. I see several of you already mentioned the store cutting the pipe for you.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> But the hack saw doesn't have a motor attached....


Every hacksaw I ever saw came with an Armstrong (Ptd) motor. :smile:


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Alchymist said:


> Every hacksaw I ever saw came with an Armstrong (Ptd) motor. :smile:



Ya....mine has one, but I prefer the baldor motor type.


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

Not attempting to further a discussion more than necessary but... If you buy pipe clamps they can be used with several different lengths of pipe. So if you spend $30 for a bar calmp, and a pipe clamp (with pipe) comes out to the same price (assuming 48" length) then consider this. When you need longer or shorter clamps all you need is a different length of pipe. You would not need to have complete clamps in every size, just pipe. Depending on your production schedule and needs that could either be a pain or a help. But it is less money spent for the sake of flexibility.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Something you can't easily do with pipe clamps....clamp top to bottom without the hassle of adjusting all the jaws exactly.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

ryan50hrl said:


> Something you can't easily do with pipe clamps....clamp top to bottom without the hassle of adjusting all the jaws exactly.
> View attachment 131713


No doubt, I would screw up a glue up like that.  :yes:


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

ryan50hrl said:


> Something you can't easily do with pipe clamps....clamp top to bottom without the hassle of adjusting all the jaws exactly.


I fail to see how that could not be easily done with pipe clamps. That is a typical glue up for me and I do use pipe clamps. I also have some bar clamps up to 24" but for all the longer lengths I do use pipe.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It's doable, just not as easy as you'd have to adjust all lower jaws to exactly the same place or the pipe would hit the floor prior to the jaw fitting under the edge. Also, if your pipe wasn't the exact length of your workpiece, you'd end up having to lift the cabinet in the air...


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

It comes down to the limited range of motion of the top jaw requiring the workpiece to be within about 6 inches of the top end of the clamp...


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

The problem could be reduced by laying the workpiece on its side, but then I'd have been limited to working on 2 legs at a time rather than 4.


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

I have two different types of pipe clamps. Those which are like you diagramed which I use for gluing up panels, and a second which set up and function much like the bar clamps you diagramed. I have more of the latter since that is what I use the most.


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## Woodenhorse (May 24, 2011)

woodenhorse said:


> i have two different types of pipe clamps. Those which are like you diagramed which i use for gluing up panels, and a second which set up and function much like the bar clamps you diagramed. I have more of the latter since that is what i use the most.











These are made by several manufacturers and readily available.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

Woodenhorse said:


> View attachment 131849
> 
> 
> These are made by several manufacturers and readily available.



Learn something new every day...those would solve the problem.


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## tom d (Oct 23, 2013)

Hard to catch, but I recently picked up 15 HD Jorgensen Bar Clamps and 12 3/4 inch Jorgensen Pipe clamps at a garage/estate sale for 5 bucks apiece. 
On Bar Clamps the difference is in the clutch type. Love the Jorgensen. Not so much Bessey, Much less Jet. There was a great review in Fine Woodworking not long ago. Try googling it.


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