# Farm house dinning table



## Flatty (Sep 21, 2011)

The dinning room table idea came from one my wife saw at Restoration Hardware. I built the table out of Douglass Fir, not the best wood but the most available, and it fits the need and look. I need to do some serius sanding then distress and stain it. If anyone has any tips/ hits for finish work I would appreciate it.


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Well can't really give info on making it old looking, all I can say it looks like a farm table. Looks sturdy, and I like the threw stretcher. Nice detail. Other than beating it up with household objects like chains, hammers,& other tools of that nature. The rustic things I've made are usually already rustic or rough. I'm sure someone here has more tips. Keep us posted.


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## Brink (Nov 22, 2010)

I do like this. The joinery is well done, especially the tusked mortis and tenon. This will be a good, sturdy table.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/distress-fun-way-get-stress-out-25188/ This might help with distressing the wood.


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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

I did a little flame torch distressing one time that highlited the grains and blackened them. It was possibly a bit overboard, and I used a 3ft long wand and a bbq propane bottle, which throws a mean flame (used for doing asphaltic torch down roofing). fine details were done with a handheld bottle torch to touch up the edges. Next we hit the piece with a dark oak stain and then clearcoated it. That was for a handcarved sign, my son did.
Quite a distressed aged appearance, but admittedly overboard.

My grandfather was a fine woodworker and the idea of distressing anything would have sent him in blastoff mode. He would build old designs and also restore old pieces that looked factory new.
Glad he's not alive now to see my methods of woodworking with a chainsaw and a flame torch.
I think he would have had to shoot me with his 50 cal black powder Saarn.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Table looks very good so far. I like farmhouse type tables. I'm noticing the BB ends, and they look very wide (across the grain). I try to keep them fairly narrow, as they are less likely to get damaged due to extended leverage.


aardvark said:


> I did a little flame torch distressing one time that highlited the grains and blackened them.


I've done that too. That process will pretty much force you into a dark finish. But, the results can look very good using a handheld propane tank. The soft grain burns back leaving a very textured grainy finish, looking very old.












 







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## aardvark (Sep 29, 2011)

Cabinetman
Most freak out when I pull out the BIG Torch.
It's the pyro in me I guess. And yes, it seems a darker stain then blends the coloring a bit better. Less contrast, and it hides the burned effect.


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## Flatty (Sep 21, 2011)

Thanks for all the replies. I am also torn on how to finish the table. I will be using a dark walnut stain but I am not sure if I should spray it or brush it on. I also am no sure what sealer to use briwax, varnish, poly, etc? Any Ideas?

FYI- I want a durable glossy finish.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Looks very nice! How did you attach the breadboard ends? 

How far do you want to go with the distressing? Chains, hammers, and nail holes will give ya the beat up look. A steel wire brush also lends to the distressed look. That's all prior to staining of course.

As for finish a wb poly will get you there.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Flatty (Sep 21, 2011)

I havent attacked the ends yet, I will have to deal with that when I get home from work. Got any good ideas? 

What brand of Poly do you recommend?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Flatty said:


> I havent attacked the ends yet, I will have to deal with that when I get home from work. Got any good ideas?
> 
> What brand of Poly do you recommend?


Are you familiar with a sliding dovetail? Either that or a pegged tongue and dado. In either case you would dry fit the end, drill three peg holes, remove end and slot the outside holes in the tongue to allow for expansion / contraction then reassemble. You don't want to use glue when you have large areas of opposing grain.

As for poly, I don't do enough with it to really have a favorite. Some of the other guys / gals here will make suggestions I'm sure.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I'd also be concerned about those huge bread board ends. Maybe cut the down to half that width, then drill through and attach them using 3 or 4 3/4" diameter dowel pegs that show on the ends. Make 1/2" rabits in the sides and a 1/2" tongue on the table. Then add the dowels.

If you try the flame method, I suggest spraying the stain and letting it dry without wiping it away. That gives a really dark finish. As for a durable and shiny top coat try Spar varnish. Three or 4 coats of that stuff can be very tough and gives a nice shine without looking like the table is wrapped in plastic.

Nice work so far. The base assembly is beautiful and looks very strong.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I agree that the BB's are a bit wide but to me wide BB just = really deep tounge n dado...

ps, building a couple side tables today for the wife for Christmas. I might throw some BB's on there for an excuse for a tutorial. We'll see!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

firemedic said:


> I agree that the BB's are a bit wide but to me wide BB just = really deep tounge n dado...
> 
> ps, building a couple side tables today for the wife for Christmas. I might throw some BB's on there for an excuse for a tutorial. We'll see!
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


I also agree with the wide BB's being at risk due to leverage. The depth of the dado needs to be just enough so that there is adequate meat to prevent the dowels or other fixtures from tearing out of the tonge. Any extra width won't help, as the strength is right at the joint edge.

One thing I learnt is to set up my jointer for slight concave BB. That way when the center 3" is glued the ends are pulled tight against the top. This helps support the joint in bending stress, as we have two faces tight against each other.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

If you have access to a sandblaster that is another method of wearing down the soft wood and leaving the late wood. This will leave an aged look without changing the color of the wood. Firemedic's methods of BB ends are my favorite too.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I'll have a Breadboard End tutorial up tomorrow while/if I'm bored on shift...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

firemedic said:


> I'll have a Breadboard End tutorial up tomorrow while/if I'm bored on shift...
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


Appreciate it if you can snap two real close-up pics, one of the joint line closer to the table edge the other at dado/tongue end.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

WillemJM said:


> Appreciate it if you can snap two real close-up pics, one of the joint line closer to the table edge the other at dado/tongue end.


You'll have to wait for the tutorial... it's in there

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## hedorah99 (Feb 7, 2011)

Table looks great! Looks like a great project for me to try some time. :thumbsup:


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## Flatty (Sep 21, 2011)

Okay so I just finished the final assembly and the staining. I hate to admit it but I had to cheat with the ends a little. I built some extra supports under the table for them and then used pocket screws. I tried to talk my wife into using the smaller ends like you recommended but she wanted to keep the length (not shocked haha). Anyhow I am very pleased with the outcome, there are definitely things I will change if I build anything similar.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Flatty said:


> I built some extra supports under the table for them and then used pocket screws. I tried to talk my wife into using the smaller ends like you recommended but she wanted to keep the length (not shocked haha).


Could you describe (pictures would be better) the "extra supports" under the table that you made, and how they were installed?












 







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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Table looks very nice & sturdy. Did a nice job. I see you stained it,are you putting a top coat on to protect the surface? If so,what do you plan on doing.


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

*Nice*

Nice big table.
All you need know is a rough hewn lazy susan to go in the middle. :thumbsup:


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## ctwiggs1 (Mar 30, 2011)

Shoot, I like yours way more than the restoration hardware version

http://www.restorationhardware.com/...p?productId=prod1606015&categoryId=cat1537023


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## Flatty (Sep 21, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> Could you describe (pictures would be better) the "extra supports" under the table that you made, and how they were installed?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Here is a picture of the supports, the opening you see is for the extensions.


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## Flatty (Sep 21, 2011)

So here are the final stats and pictures of the table.

-91.5" long without extensions/ 114.5" with the extensions
-45" wide
-30" tall
-Dark Walnut stain
-Water based Polyurethane (6 coats)
-Wrought iron nails for look 

Thanks for all the good advice and encouragement!!!!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The table came out real nice. It's very "farmhousey". Finishes like that give you a lot of leeway. Now...for some matching chairs.:yes:












 







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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Flatty, I just noticed your visitor msg. Sry it took me so long, I'm not on the PC often and I can't see em on my phone app. To answer your question, no I haven't. One did quite some time ago that's still around but pretty cheesy.

I'm planning to carve a shift plaque one of these days. Was asked to build cabinet/lockers to match existing ones in exchange for comp time but I'm not thrilled by that.

~tom. ...GEAUX TIGERS!... ...GEAUX SAINTS!......


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## pepperduck (Aug 29, 2011)

Looks good man.

I like the stain you went with.

She looks quite sturdy indeed.


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## aaroncr (Dec 30, 2011)

I like the table, similar in style to a "hayrake" table. If I ever attempt one it would be that. Nice work.


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