# building a table with folding legs



## brianst (Jun 27, 2010)

I built a table that is 8' x 2' and about 3' high. The top is just 1/2" plywood with standard folding legs. Like office tables, the standard black folding legs. This works fine for most applications, but I was asked to build a few tables of the same size, but sturdier. 

Looking to build legs from wood, that will still fold neatly for storage. What would be the most cost effective way of putting legs on that will make the table sturdier, yet easily folded and put away.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

"Sturdier" needs to be defined. 

My first thought is that your 1/2" plywood top is the weak point. For most applications I would expect the standard store bought folding legs to be perfectly adequate. It is going to be difficult to construct folding, wooden legs that are any better.

George


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## brianst (Jun 27, 2010)

GeorgeC said:


> "Sturdier" needs to be defined.
> 
> My first thought is that your 1/2" plywood top is the weak point. For most applications I would expect the standard store bought folding legs to be perfectly adequate. It is going to be difficult to construct folding, wooden legs that are any better.
> 
> George


would a 3/4" plywood be better or just adding a 1x2 frame around the bottom of the ply top?

sturdier...now the table wobbles a good amount when shook. new ones need to withstand more abuse as it will be in a bar. i am thinking they want to use it as a beer pong table instead of just a standard table like mine.


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## Streamwinner (Nov 25, 2008)

Try this:

http://www.hardwaresource.com/

All sorts of hinges. I bought some locking hinges for a folding card table I made about a year ago (took a 1.5" square leg). The hinges I used weren't sturdy enough for use alone and needed the reinforcing braces. I didn't buy the braces and just redesigned the legs to make it collapsable instead of foldable.


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## icrusbound (Jan 19, 2009)

Not sure it would suit your purpose, but the poker table in my album has folding legs. 2 2x4s made into a 4/4 for the leg. The same in the cross brace near the bottom which is end screwed to the legs. The underside of the table has a box built on it, and the legs just sit snug up against the inside of the box with a gate hinge on the inside so they can fold inward, and the brass pieces you can see are the locking arms. With all the poker wood and rail on top it is quite heavy, but it is very stable. If you are interested I can get you more pics.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

brianst said:


> would a 3/4" plywood be better or just adding a 1x2 frame around the bottom of the ply top?
> 
> sturdier...now the table wobbles a good amount when shook. new ones need to withstand more abuse as it will be in a bar. i am thinking they want to use it as a beer pong table instead of just a standard table like mine.


Run 1x2 around the bottom of your prototype. It should stiffen up the 1/2" ply. If you still think it's too wobbly then try 3/4" for the top but I think the 1X2's will do it for you. That's what I used on my folding table.


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## Grain Man (Jun 26, 2010)

Streamwinner said:


> Try this:
> 
> http://www.hardwaresource.com/
> 
> All sorts of hinges. I bought some locking hinges for a folding card table I made about a year ago (took a 1.5" square leg). The hinges I used weren't sturdy enough for use alone and needed the reinforcing braces. I didn't buy the braces and just redesigned the legs to make it collapsable instead of foldable.



I just recently used 4 of these on a folding router table, and they're pretty sturdy.
I would imagine on a table you might wanna join the legs in pairs with a cross bar though.

http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinge...ble+Hinges+-+Shelf+Hinges/New+Table+Leg+Hinge


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