# Chainsaw mills....



## Old Timer (Aug 9, 2010)

This has probably been discussed already so I'm sorrry about that. 
I'm looking into purchasing one of those chainsaw mills to do work at my mountain cabin. I've looked at the Alaskan brand. The *small mill* would work but I'm concerned about the stability of it since it's not attached to the bar in two places like the *Mark III*. Anyone have any experience with one of these "small mills?" Thanks.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Hey Old Timer. I don't have any experience with any of them I just wanted to welcome you to the forum. 

We have quite a few members here who do have various brands of CSMs though, and I bet you'll get a good number of replies. 

Just curious what general area are you located?





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## skymonkey (Apr 12, 2010)

I have an alaskan 24" model. It does attatch to the bar in 2 places. Clamps on accually. I bought it new with the intentions of buying a bigger saw then my 18" and had some major shop tool failures so its on the back burner for now. I fit my lil husky in it to check things out and I only end up with about 11" of useable bar. No I havnt used it at all but I am a mechanic by trade and it seems well built to me. Accually I would be inclined to sell it. I bought it to get live edge peices to work with but have found a draw knife makes my edge just fine...lol


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## Old Timer (Aug 9, 2010)

Thanks Texas, I'm located in Va. Thanks for the info Sky. Just looking at the small mill design, it looks like you would have some variation in the thickness with the saw able to move up and down a bit.


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## skymonkey (Apr 12, 2010)

The saw does move up and down on the Alaskan but it also locks in place. Its a very well thought out design.


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## Old Timer (Aug 9, 2010)

Sky, you have the one that attaches in two places. How about the "small mill" that only attaches close to the powerhead of the chain saw? Have any input on that one?


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## skymonkey (Apr 12, 2010)

Owe you must be talking about something like the beam machine. Nope never had one but thought a lot about getting one to complement my Alaskan. Can use one of those to square a log and then slab it up with the Alaskan. Would be easier that way IMO then going thru all the set up for that first cut and then the edges would be easier to square up to.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

skymonkey said:


> Oh, you must be talking about something like the beam machine.


 No, I think he's talking about the Small Log Mill which is shown with a Plexiglas guard and attaches to only one end of the saw. I don't have any experience with one, but have been watching this thread to learn about them.


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## Old Timer (Aug 9, 2010)

That's exactly what I'm referring to. I'm hoping someone reading this thread can reply.


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

Like TT said many of the members have used/do use a chainsaw mill...they must be busy and not replying. I used the search box at the top of the page and typed in "chainsaw mill" and came up with dozens of threads on them...granted they don't answer your specific question about "which brand", but I think reading through the old threads will give you some other things to ponder. I will link just a few:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/turning-tree-into-storage-building-18020/
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/chainsaw-mills-16218/
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/chainsaw-mill-10813/
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/alaska-chain-saw-mill-12023/
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f26/all-csms-slow-10450/




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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Old Timer.
I found a little something that may answer your questions. See the "Granberg G777 Mill" thread for my post.


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## Old Timer (Aug 9, 2010)

Thanks dig, that's the information I was looking for.


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## slabmaster (Mar 30, 2008)

*Grandberg Alaskan mill*

I use this mill and like it alot. It's the best investment i've ever made. It was payed off the first time i used it.My avatar shows what it can do. I've made lots of lumber with mine.:yes:


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

slabmaster said:


> I use this mill and like it alot. It's the best investment i've ever made.:yes:


But yours attaches at both ends of the saw bar, right? I think what Old Timer (and me) were considering is the Granberg mill that attaches only at one end. I think, from what I've read, the general conclusion is to spend a little more and get a more accurate mill (Mark III).


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## slabmaster (Mar 30, 2008)

*mill*



djg said:


> But yours attaches at both ends of the saw bar, right? I think what Old Timer (and me) were considering is the Granberg mill that attaches only at one end. I think, from what I've read, the general conclusion is to spend a little more and get a more accurate mill (Mark III).


 For the difference in price, i would get the one that attaches at both ends for better stability and safety. I do have both an they both work well as long as the bar and chain is kept up.I sharpen my chain after about 4 hours of milling on average depending on the tree and dryness of it.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

How do you sharpen it? Do you take the chain completely off the bar or sharpen it in place? Do you just use a handfile, or do you have some kind of apparatus? 

I guess based on your recommendation and experience, I'll go for the alaska mill G776. Can't go wrong opting for stability and safety.


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## slabmaster (Mar 30, 2008)

*sharpening*



beelzerob said:


> How do you sharpen it? Do you take the chain completely off the bar or sharpen it in place? Do you just use a handfile, or do you have some kind of apparatus?
> 
> I guess based on your recommendation and experience, I'll go for the alaska mill G776. Can't go wrong opting for stability and safety.


 I sharpen by hand with a file on the mill.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ok, that's good to know. If you had to remove the chain and do quite a lot of work to resharpen, then that would be quite a drag on "productivity".


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## BurlsandMore (Aug 25, 2010)

I use a dremel and the right sized grinding stone. I will say Stihl makes the best stones and are worth the money. I have sharpened miles of chain on my mill. I have an electric with hydraulic feed mill that I built. My chain mill has a 7 foot bar so let me tell you I have really sharpened some chain. I mill claro and english walnut for gunstocks and table tops so having a wide, clean and accurate cut is important to me. When milling logs expect to hit all kinds of goodies. I typically touch up the chain when the chips start getting short. If I hit a nail or two the dremel will do the job but anything worse and it's quicker to put a new loop of chain on. I fix my really bad chains on a reversible grinder to ensure a good grind and even teeth. I use full skip chisel point 3/8" 404 so this cuts down on the number of cutters to sharpen and works well for milling. The most important thing to remember is to keep your cutters all the same size when using the dremel or risk getting a chain that pulls in one direction or the other. I have found that a flatter angle on the top of the cutter works best for end grain be sure to grind the gullet when sharpening. Hope this helps.  Ah, the smell of Marbel Cake English Walnut saw dust in the morning......


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Welcome to the millyard B&M. 

Post some pictures! Especially the milling a big Claro. It'll make some of us jealous that we don't have it in our region but we'll get over it. :sad:




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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, my chainsaw mill attachment thingy is on the way. so now I need to convert one of my chains to a rip chain. Is it as simple as grinding the angle on the teeth down to 10 deg or less?

And slab man...so when the chips start getting small, you just take a flat file and run it across the face of the tooth a few times?


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## slabmaster (Mar 30, 2008)

*sharpening*



beelzerob said:


> Well, my chainsaw mill attachment thingy is on the way. so now I need to convert one of my chains to a rip chain. Is it as simple as grinding the angle on the teeth down to 10 deg or less?
> 
> And slab man...so when the chips start getting small, you just take a flat file and run it across the face of the tooth a few times?


 You'll get a feel for it. When it starts to slow down, it's time to sharpen. The chips are smaller than a chain sharpened for crosscutting.The small angle ( i use 0 degrees) cuts smoother and produces more of a dusty small chip compared to a regular chain at 30 degrees. I also narrow every 2 teeth to about 1/16" wide and angle them 35 degrees for cutters which is easier on the saw and much faster cutting.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Every 2 teeth... you mean every 3rd tooth, or every other tooth?


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## pickaroon (Aug 25, 2010)

I'm new and havn't done much (none) chatting but I have done some chainsaw milling with my Alaskan to make beams and joists. I use the granberg 12 volt G1012xt sharpener and it fits on the bar so no need to remove the chain. I'm no expert but I think it works well. As far as milling with a chainsaw you will be surprised at the accuracy you can obtain even with a cheap version of a micro mill and no need to go to the gym the Alaskan will provide quite a work out especially if you use a 3120 husky. Well so much for my first reply good luck and keep your chain out of the dirt.


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## pickaroon (Aug 25, 2010)

Oh yea has anyone tried to develope a slabbing mill using a 4 stroke moter for a power head on a chainsaw bar like the peterson or lucas mill. I love the Alaskan concept but my shoulders hate it. Any Ideas?


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## BurlsandMore (Aug 25, 2010)

*In Re: to TexasTimbers request for some photos.*

Here are a couple of photos to show you what I was doing in '04. I have not been milling for a few years now and I am getting the bug to fire up the mills and make some slabs. I have a nice collection of dry slabs that I am wanting to build some tables from. I originally found this site looking for advice/tips on a miter joint. I have heard of the joint being called a waterfall, bi-fold, folded, lined fold etc... I can't find any tips on how to do easily. I have made one coffee table using this joint but it was a little tricky. I was hoping since people here mill slabs maybe some has a tip or two. Hope this wasn't too off topic. I will post the table I built in my next post since 4 pic's is the limit per post.

I response to the poster that talked about cutting the teeth back. Lucas (Bailey's) sells what they call a ripping chain. I have tried to make one, not an easy thing. I can't say the one I made cut any better than fresh chain off the roll. I do think that decreasing the top plate angle on the cutter is helpful. Just my two cents.


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## BurlsandMore (Aug 25, 2010)

Sorry for the confusion since I could not post any picture in this thread. I was able to post them in My Photos so click my My Photos link for the images. Any help on this crazy miter joint would be welcome. BTW table sits flat as pancake on the floor for those who may be wondering since it is sitting gravel in the photos.













































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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Wow! That is one very cool table. I wasn't familiar with a waterfall joint. I like that a lot. 

Is that warehouse full of flitches all your work? 




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## BurlsandMore (Aug 25, 2010)

*Re: Warehouse full of slabs*

Hey Tex,

Thanks for the kind words about my coffee table. I only wish my kids were as kind to the table. I guess I look at it this way each dent or scratch is a memory.

Yep, all of my work, is solo mind you. I am a one man show and this kinda work can kill a guy (as many of you know). This is why I have not turned a mill on since '04. I have log deck of around 400K pounds (all walnut) of logs that I hope to start milling in the very near future. When I fire back up I will post some pictures of what I "find". Cheers! 

If anyone has a question about milling and doesn't want to write it out you can give me a call at 530.696.BURL (2875) Thanks for lookin, Jim


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## slabmaster (Mar 30, 2008)

*2and 2*



beelzerob said:


> Every 2 teeth... you mean every 3rd tooth, or every other tooth?


 Two at 35 degrees 1/16" wide to act as knives and 2 cut at 0 degrees to take out the wood.It's the fastest and best finish i have found for milling. I also use.050 chain only because it's faster and easier on the saw than .063 chain and still holds up nice.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Jim that's incredible that you've milled that much wood with a CSM. I'll be calling you for sure. How do you flatten your flitches? I've used the sliding router technique and my Stanley No. 7 for some species but wish I had a huge industrial belt sander. 




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## BurlsandMore (Aug 25, 2010)

*CSM/Surfacer*

I mill slabs with the CSM and my WoodMizer LT40 (indoors/Elec. 3ph). This is only a small sample of the wood I have milled. I can't even count how many trees I have slabbed. When you cut gunstocks you have to make a lot of slabs and then you only get a couple of nice blanks. I made lots of turners and hobbiest happy with the piles of scrape generated from making gunstocks. I don't plan on cutting too many more blanks but hope to cut table tops instead for now on. This will give me more wood options since blanks are only good out of English or Claro. Since everyone in CA thinks their walnut trees are worth a million getting other species will be a whole lot easier. I have enough walnut decked up to last me for as long as I want to cut. I am on the look out now for some monster Maple, Elm, Ash hey even a big old Mulberry to make some nice big tops out. 

I surface the slabs I have on the CSM. I made a trolley and rail system to bolt on below the bar. This set up uses a PC 3 1/4" router and "flycutter" that is 3" in dia. with a replaceable three tooth carbide cutter and 1/2" shank. Works like a dream. I have to pull it in one direction but it has a coil spring return. Pulling it through can get a little tiring but allows you to control the cut and finish better. The return is great and allows it to cut in both direction (climb cut on return) which is helps to knock down all of the high spots quickly. The slab moves forward under the cutter after each pass using the hydraulic feed. Once you get into a rhythm of cut and feed you can do a slab in no time, relatively speaking. You might be able to build an attach like this in some manner for your WM and feed the head over the slab, just a thought. Pretty simple set-up. Couple of pieces of 2" square tube with angle weld on top for the wheels to roll on. Then make a trolley out of some "large" angle and attach some wheels that fit the angle on the 2" tube. I can't offer any suggestions on where to get the parts and piece since I built my with stuff I had laying around my shop. Best of luck to you. 

P.S. One last thing the cutter I use comes from Freeman Tool Mfg. in OH.


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

BurlsandMore said:


> I mill slabs with the CSM and my WoodMizer LT40 (indoors/Elec. 3ph). This is only a small sample of the wood I have milled. I can't even count how many trees I have slabbed. When you cut gunstocks you have to make a lot of slabs and then you only get a couple of nice blanks. I made lots of turners and hobbiest happy with the piles of scrape generated from making gunstocks. I don't plan on cutting too many more blanks but hope to cut table tops instead for now on. This will give me more wood options since blanks are only good out of English or Claro. Since everyone in CA thinks their walnut trees are worth a million getting other species will be a whole lot easier. I have enough walnut decked up to last me for as long as I want to cut. I am on the look out now for some monster Maple, Elm, Ash hey even a big old Mulberry to make some nice big tops out.
> 
> I surface the slabs I have on the CSM. I made a trolley and rail system to bolt on below the bar. This set up uses a PC 3 1/4" router and "flycutter" that is 3" in dia. with a replaceable three tooth carbide cutter and 1/2" shank. Works like a dream. I have to pull it in one direction but it has a coil spring return. Pulling it through can get a little tiring but allows you to control the cut and finish better. The return is great and allows it to cut in both direction (climb cut on return) which is helps to knock down all of the high spots quickly. The slab moves forward under the cutter after each pass using the hydraulic feed. Once you get into a rhythm of cut and feed you can do a slab in no time, relatively speaking. You might be able to build an attach like this in some manner for your WM and feed the head over the slab, just a thought. Pretty simple set-up. Couple of pieces of 2" square tube with angle weld on top for the wheels to roll on. Then make a trolley out of some "large" angle and attach some wheels that fit the angle on the 2" tube. I can't offer any suggestions on where to get the parts and piece since I built my with stuff I had laying around my shop. Best of luck to you.
> 
> P.S. One last thing the cutter I use comes from Freeman Tool Mfg. in OH.


I would love to see a video of that in operation.


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## Wrangler55 (Aug 8, 2009)

*Beautiful Slabs*

Those walnut slabs look fantastic. Here's the sled I built to flatten my slabs. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/22104 Just about any slab I can cut, will fit the jig. So far, I've not bought a fly cutter. I've used a 3/4" straight router bit. You can see the router marks, but you can't feel them. Just a few minutes with a card scraper and you can't see them either.

Hal


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