# Need help making a 'back band' around window/door casing.



## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

Hello, I’m building up my window and door casings so they extend beyond the chair rail. I’m thinking of adding/making a ‘back band’ similar to these:




























I’m not sure, but the painted casing doesn't appear to overlap like most other back band moldings I’m seeing online.

I’m not very experienced so can you guys offer some advice on making this? Here’s my materials and thier dimensions:

*My casing:*
Width – 3.25
Thickness - 0.6875










*My Bead board: *
Georgia Pacific Ply Bead Panels
1.6" on-center beaded patterns 
4' x 8' panels are shiplapped on the 8' edges to virtually hide seams 
Available in 11/32" thickness (0.34375)










*My Chair Rail Moulding:*
Thickness - 0.688










I’m thinking of making a simple back band 1” wide with a .25 inch overlapping the casing (.75 between the casing and the bead board). The last portion of the casing profile is .5 wide, so I intend to overlap it .25 and leave a .25 reveal. 

If possible, I’m trying to keep the profile no more then 1” wide because I only have 1.75 from my window casing to the edge of the stool, so adding .75 from the casing to the bead board will leave a 1 inch reveal on the ends, which if I read correctly is the proper amount of reveal. 

Here’s a great link that shows several back band profiles, but since I’m trying to keep it within 1” I’ve only selected a couple simple profiles I think could work. I'm thinking I want the back band to be the width of the chair rail and bead board, plus a .16 reveal, which totals approx 1 1/16”. These profiles are both wider than 1" so if possible I'll have to modify them a little (or extend it out a little farther and cut into my 1" window stool reveal). 

*Here’s the Back Band Profiles I think could work: *






































Questions:

1. Is adding a 1” wide back band wide enough for the .5 thickness increase I’m trying to accomplish, of should it be wider? (the casing will total 4” inches wide after adding the back band but the thickness/depth will increase a half inch in last inch of the casing….. is this change in depth too drastic?) 
2. I really need stock 1” wide x 1” thick to make the profile, but I can’t find anything other then 1x (.75 thick) at Lowes, so can I glue two pieces of 1x together and rip it down? I’m thinking I can glue it together and then sand the outer edge to blend the seam.

Please feel free to critique my plans and offer alternate solutions. ANY details on how to make a professional looking back band that blends smoothly and gives the depth I need to stay proud of the chair rail is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!


----------



## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

Hi,
You can glue up pieces as you suggested. Cover well with glue & clamp up real good. Make it over size & mill it to finish size after glue dries. You can also find a local lumber dealer that sells hardwoods. You can buy some 5/4 stock to make your pieces. They usually will also have a good molding rack better than lowe's that may have a piece of molding that may work for you.


----------



## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks jlord...... So, other than adding a little more work for myself, which I don't mind doing, there will be no any noticeable problems by gluing up the 1x's together (following your instructions of oversizing and milling down)? 

Also, by "mill" do you mean cut or sand? So for example, do you mean to glue the 1x3 to a larger 1x4 so there's an overlap to both sides and then cut it down to size, or just over lap by 1/32th and sand it down? If I were to glue up two 1/3's and then rip a 1/4" off both sides, would it require oversizing? (sorry, not trying to be difficult here... just curious) 

Thanks


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The easiest way to do that is to just add a thicker moulding to the outer edge of the casing.


----------



## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

RickDel said:


> Thanks jlord...... So, other than adding a little more work for myself, which I don't mind doing, there will be no any noticeable problems by gluing up the 1x's together (following your instructions of oversizing and milling down)?
> 
> Also, by "mill" do you mean cut or sand? So for example, do you mean to glue the 1x3 to a larger 1x4 so there's an overlap to both sides and then cut it down to size, or just over lap by 1/32th and sand it down? If I were to glue up two 1/3's and then rip a 1/4" off both sides, would it require oversizing? (sorry, not trying to be difficult here... just curious)
> 
> Thanks


I would glue up your pieces oversize then cut to final size needed to route your profiles, then sand to finish it smooth. 

I would try to find a hardwoods supplier (cherry, maple, mahogany, etc) that carries woods for cabinet, stair, & furniture makers. They usually carry a large selection of molding in stock that you could just buy a couple of lengths of to add as a backband. 

You just need to add some thickness to the outside of your casing to give your chair rail something to butt into with a small reveal. Don't over think it.


----------



## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

Jlord, I took your advice and found some 5/4 x 12 stock at my local mill. It cost $93 for a single board!!!!!!!!!! I probably should have just glued up some 1x4's and saved some money, or I wonder if this would be a good spot for a planer. Maybe I could have planed down some rough 2x4's and saved some money. (might give me a reason to buy a planer) 

Anyhow, how should I approach this. What procedure should I use to route, rip, and rabbet this trim. Which one should I do first? And should I backcut this a couple degrees so it fits tightly against the casing?

Here's a draw-up of what I want to build (sorry it's so sloppy).










Thanks


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The moulding can be made with 3/4" x 1". If you step it to overlap, which may not be necessary, rabbet the step into the 3/4" thickness down to 1/2", and mount the 1/2" to the wall, and you'll have a full 3/4" showing in width and 1" in height.

Or, just add the moulding to the outer edge without machining a rabbet.


----------



## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

5/4 x 12 What did you get? They must have been limited in selection. All that really matters is that you are happy with it when you are done.


----------



## craftsman jay (Jun 26, 2010)

Unless I'm misunderstanding, you got 5/4" x 5/4" x 12' for $93. Is that right? If so, you got robbed. Depending on area and type of wood, should be around $1.50 a Lin foot. Or $5/board ft. For pine. So somewhere around $15. I must of missed something.


----------



## RickDel (Jul 7, 2010)

Yup!! 4/5 x 12 pine for $93!! I'm in Delaware. It seemed very expensive to me, but since I new at woodworking I just assumed that's what it cost. Funny thing is that I actually embarrased myself by telling the guy, "if it's less then $35 I'll pay cash". 

It was finished not rough. They didn't have rough in stock, but I'm not sure I could have used a rough piece anyway. 

Anyhow, getting ready to start the project. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.


----------

