# Storing logs for future cutting



## dhoagy (Sep 16, 2013)

Just a quick question. I have been thinking of purchasing a mill and have access to quite a few cherry and black walnut logs. How long can I leave them sit before they go bad on me and are there any special provisions I should make while storing them?


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## Tom the Sawyer (Sep 4, 2012)

dhoagy,

First thing would be to clean up the logs. If there are ragged places (where a branch broke off, the felling cut with torn fibers, mis-aligned chainsaw cuts, etc.) they should be trimmed flat.

If recently cut (the ends have not started checking) you should coat the ends and any place a large branch was removed with AnchorSeal. If not available then use an exterior paint. Do not use roof coatings or tar. If the ends are already checked it probably won't help that much.

If it will be more than a month before milling then you should get them up off the ground. I use railroad ties but you could also use landscape timbers, concrete blocks, pipe, etc. The ground and bark should be able to dry between rains. If in direct ground contact the bugs will have an easy time of getting to work.

It has been my experience that walnut will still yield decent lumber (although substantially less) after years. Cherry won't last nearly as long. Most logs should be milled as soon as possible after felling. Logs don't "season", the decay process starts quickly. Some species are more resistant than others but the quicker you get them milled, the quicker the lumber will be dry and the quicker you can start on your projects. :thumbsup:


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Tom the Sawyer said:


> dhoagy,
> 
> ......* Do not use roof coatings or tar*. ....... :thumbsup:


I can't add anything to the sound advice above, but just a question. Why not asphalt based products for end sealing? Won't stick to wet wood or dries hard and then cracks??


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## dhoagy (Sep 16, 2013)

Thanks a lot. Great advice. Now I just need a saw


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

DJG....it would be obvious in my opinion you don't own a saw of our type/size .....and as a ROOFER I still wouldn't reccomend tar. I do hear of people using to seal burl and log ends BUT I would'nt want to run it in my saw...I've heard in some burl cases they have to scrap and clean it off prior to using....NASTY!!!!

Ooops sorry djg I didn't answer your question....the tar being petroleum based is REALLY a messy sealer and doesn't perform that good long term...it will gum up guides bearings and anything it can friction against....bottom line at my saw..IT AIN'T GETTING SAWED HERE!!!

Also with paints...depending on the actual sawing date, some paints can get extremely hard and are hard on the teeth when starting and ending a cut. Anchorseal is ALL I use...but I hear Baileys has their version. I seal mine for long term and I don't try to be cheap about what I use. I look at it like this....I produce a premium style of wood and I use premium products to produce and most of all because I ask premium prices.

dhoagy, check out my website....I cut an aged log type of lumber...cherry better than walnut will hold up long term BUT I do reccomend sawing the walnut as an asap due to it splits up more. IF your looking at premium classic grade lumber saw asap after felling tree. Cherry and walnut heartwood have been used in old buildings as sills and they hold up good.


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

Mr. Tim, you're correct in saying I don't own a mill; I wish I did. I was at the dump site today of a tree service where I cut my firewood. Lying there was a fresh cut, straight as an arrow 24"+ dia x 12' Red Oak log cut up into 4 sections. And not a thing I could do with it. Almost made me cry. But then you know it's not only the mill, but a big chainsaw, skid loader.... You've earned what you got, but I can stilll envy (forgive me Big Guy) a little.

So tar just makes a mess of things. Never thought of that. I use Anchorseal on the smaller pieces that I have, but was considering something cheaper when I run out.
Thanks


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## Tom the Sawyer (Sep 4, 2012)

I haven't had very good experiences with cherry. In our area it seems that black cherry of any size will often have heart rot and, once it gets started, it'll degrade quickly. Again, much of the wood may be fine but the yield is reduced significantly.

Tar makes a mess of everything. The blade is warm and will spread black streaks across the boards, tracks on the rollers, gums up the wheel belts, and so forth. Many roof coatings contain metal particles, often aluminum. 

I very much prefer AnchorSeal or similar products if the logs are end coated. It may seem expensive, often selling for $23-28 per gallon around here. It is cheaper in larger volumes and you may be able to save money by purchasing it through some woodworking stores or wood turning clubs who purchase in bulk and re-sell it. Even at full price it is a wise investment.

The predicted coverage rate is 100 square feet per gallon. A 24" diameter log, of any length) would have about 6.3 square feet of log end surface so a gallon should coat about 15 logs. Assuming 8' logs, the board footage per log would be 200 bf or a total of 3000 bf. Applying an end coating may save you about 3" of checking on each end of the boards. That 6" of each 8' board is about 6.25% of your yield, or 187.5 bf of the 3000 bf. Would you spend $30 to recover an additional 187 board feet (.16 p/bf)? Longer logs, better ROI. It is a good investment. :thumbsup:

I have never noticed a problem cutting through the thin film of paint on the end of a log, but there are other reasons to avoid it. Opaque coatings can obscure the grain of the log (you have to look closer to spot the heart) and will hide the stains that indicate metal in species like walnut, oak, ash, etc..

As a general note: please complete your profiles to include things like your location and equipment, . You'll be more likely to get answers applicable to your situation.


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