# Bulletin Board / Message Board



## nbolmer (Nov 15, 2011)

Hi there - I own a restaurant in Sonoma County, and I have an issue. People like posting flyers and such for local events on my very prominent outdoor wall (actually the side of the staircase leading to my upstairs restaurant). I have a chunk of space about 7ft tall x 4ft long that I'd like to put a (lockable?) bulletin board, which is insulated against the elements. 

I'm mechanically inclined and detail oriented, but have little woodworking experience. I'm looking for some enclosed bulletin board plans, but haven't found anything online. A new one in the size I'm looking for can cost 1400+ dollars, out of my budget. 

Can anyone help?:blink:

-Noah


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

.


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## nbolmer (Nov 15, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> .


Why thank you


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## customone (Nov 3, 2011)

Are the measurements 7 foot wide and 4 foot tall or the other way around?

what is your ideal size for the board?

lit or unlit?


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## nbolmer (Nov 15, 2011)

customone said:


> Are the measurements 7 foot wide and 4 foot tall or the other way around?
> 
> what is your ideal size for the board?
> 
> lit or unlit?


Those are actually the measurements that I estimate the board should be. 7 wide, 4 tall. Maybe 2-3 doors because 1 would be too large. I hadn't considered lighting it, but if I did - it would need to be battery (or solar) powered - no electricity around the perimeter. 

Thanks for the help!


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## customone (Nov 3, 2011)

Noah,

I would consider shrinking it down to something more manageable due to the door size, at 7 foot wide that's a 42 inch wide door at 4 foot high, add plexi or safety glass to that and you have one heavy door.

I have a good and simple , cost effective design. would 3x5 suit your needs, 3x6 tops, and that's pushing it.

Check back later and I will upload a simple design.

In the mean time go to www.stylmark.com and have a look at "heavy duty aluminum frames" from the pull down menu. I will also provide a wood door design.


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## customone (Nov 3, 2011)

Noah,

Attached are some photos regarding your display case. As you can see from photo 16 which is the frame with the plywood back, it is rather simple to build.

The design calls for simple dimension lumber 1x6 and one sheet of plywood. If you like this design we can elaborate further with the specifics.


http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture16-4.png


http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture17-4.png

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture15-4.png

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture14-1.png

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture18-2.png

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture19.png


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## nbolmer (Nov 15, 2011)

customone said:


> Noah,
> 
> Attached are some photos regarding your display case. As you can see from photo 16 which is the frame with the plywood back, it is rather simple to build.
> 
> ...


I like this design quite a lot, and 3x6 would certainly work. I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help. 

I prefer the all-wood design, as it fits in with the look of my building. Picture #17 is exactly what I envision.


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## nbolmer (Nov 15, 2011)

I should also mention that I don't have a table saw- just a circular saw (though it does lock into angles for mitre), a sawzall, and a dremel.


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## nbolmer (Nov 15, 2011)

customone said:


> Noah,
> 
> Attached are some photos regarding your display case. As you can see from photo 16 which is the frame with the plywood back, it is rather simple to build.
> 
> ...


I'm getting ready to get my materials. I do have a couple more questions:
1) Are regular screw-in butt joints appropriate here (this is an outdoor application)?
2) I'm considering using my dremel to rout out a groove for the windows. Is this a bad idea? Should I purchase a router?
3) Is there a specific type of hinge I need for the doors? 

Cheers!

Noah


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## customone (Nov 3, 2011)

noah,


this case was designed using dimensional sizes for ease of fabrication. The side are 3/4 x 5 1/2 wide which is readily available. the back is 1/2 CDX plywood. I will be posting the original CAD drawing in a minute.

The hinge style for the doors is a piano hinge with a 3/4 leaf, as far as the joinery is concerned You can get away with all butt joints with a precaution. because it will be outside, I would use silicone where the two pieces join as opposed to wood glue.

Again not knowing what material you are going to use I will assume it will be paint grade. The original render i did in quartered teak. 

If you intend to stain this case or use a natural finish you may want to consider redwood or cypress, the west coast has as good supply of redwood.

For the screws, you should use 1 5/8 stainless steel if they will be exposed, if not standard screws and plug the holes.

A router is certainly a plus for the project. If you decide to get one let me know because that changes a few things with the back plywood.

The sides are the starting point , if these are cut wrong your !


This forum has a very slow response time when people reply so check back for the CAD drawings


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## customone (Nov 3, 2011)

drawing one shows the side, this is where you want to start. thickness is 3/4. you will need two of course

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture1-6.png

this is the front case showing the over all's

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture2-4.png

this drawing shows the valance applied and the only two 1 inch thick pieces needed

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture3-6.png

the two green pieces in this drawing are the valance and the center divider, note the angle on the top of the valance.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture5-5.png


this drawing is the butt joint fastening method with screws either stainless or countersunk and plugged. 

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture7-3.png

If you confused let me know. Ill be uploading some more drawing for the board and details for the doors.


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## customone (Nov 3, 2011)

this picture shows the basic frame as it is completed, without back.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture1-7.png

exploded view

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture2-5.png

back applied

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture3-7.png

shows what edges to apply silicone

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture5-6.png

next step is to apply valance and slanted roof detail
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture6-3.png

exploded with doors

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture7-4.png

door specs and dimensions

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture8-5.png

Without the doors the material cost should be no more than $125.00. the doors can be tricky if you have no prior woodworking experience. I would seriously suggest calling commercial window and door company that deals with extruded aluminum frame work. i had doors like this made in the past and the cost was about $110.00 per door, with lock and plex-glass, no installation. Installation is pretty simple.

remember the center divider is 1 inch thick and is narrower than the sides, and top and bottom. 4 1/4 believe.

If you do not intend to light the unit disregard the holes for the LED lights. The tack board is the very last thing you should install, you can use homosote rather than cork, the advantage is that the tack will penetrate all the way as with cork it will only penetrate the thickness of the cork. You can cloth wrap or paint homosote, it's also less expensive. It is commonly used as tack boards on custom reception desks.

You should install the tack board after the unit is mounted to the wall.


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## nbolmer (Nov 15, 2011)

customone said:


> this picture shows the basic frame as it is completed, without back.
> 
> http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture1-7.png
> 
> ...


Excellent. I have the go ahead-to buy a router, so I'll be picking that up. Let me know what that changes / what bits I need for this.

Also, my original plan was to go to Tap Plastics and purchase a piece of anti-glare acrylic (I've used it for picture frames), and cut a groove in the door frame to make the doors. I haven't called for quotes yet, but I will on Monday - if it's a lot more expensive to have the doors made, I might have to build them myself. I could potentially use my to-be-purchased router to cut rabbets for the windows also.


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## customone (Nov 3, 2011)

Noah,

Congrats on the soon to be new router. my suggestion would be a porter cable 690 D handle. but what ever you get make sure it has a straight edge with the router. some router manufactures give you one as standard. you'll need it for this project.

I suggest a rabbit bit kit with several different size bearings so you can adjust the inset on the rabbit, a 1/2 & 3/4 inch straight cutters should be all you need for this project.
I will re-draw the side to show the dado's in the sides and rabbits in the doors.


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