# QS Oak live edge coffee table



## gideon (May 26, 2010)

just because the oak was here and I had some old pieces of barn beams - also qs oak. Bowties are wenge. Legs splayed at 15 degrees. Legs were hand tapered with a stanley 5 and 65. 

There were some serious voids and bark inclusions in part of the top which I filled with 2 part epoxy. That part came out way more bubbly than I wanted. I used a lighter to get the bubbles out as I poured in layer after layer. 

Any advice on getting all the bubbles out???


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## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

Very nice. As far as the bubbles goes, don't you use a torch to bring out bubbles to the top? 
Never used epoxy before.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

Air bubbles are taken out or reduces when you lightly breath on the surface. don't breath the fumes a lighter or a torch work it isn't the heat it's the CO that draws the bubbles out.

Jerry


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

I'm not always a big fan of bow ties, but I got to give it to you, I really like the table!

The uniformity/spacing and color of the ties along with the gap really make the top unique. 

Nicely done!


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

NICE table


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Woa! This table is very cool. For some reason you don't see much live edge oak stuff out there--but this is very excellent. The top reminds me of my toolbox lid, though I really like how dark the wenge is!











Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Woodworking Talk


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

tool box lid is rockin.

i like this table very much but you don't see a lot of live edge oak I think because its too blonde for peoples tastes. kind of like McCobb and Heywood Wakefield, the latter really isn't of interest to most people right now. 

dark woods like walnut, teak, brown oak - those are really where people who like what we do are.


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## Reclaimed Wood Blog (May 28, 2013)

Nice work...

http://reclaimedwoodblog.com/


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## Da Aardvark (Oct 11, 2012)

If the bubbles are in the epoxy and it's dried. you're going to have to live with it.
The removal is done with a propane torch, during drying. Generally within the 1st 15 minutes and again at about the 45 minute point. It's a judgment call when playing with it.

Never pour epoxy in more than 1/8th inch layers.

Beautiful wood/design.


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## Travico (Dec 25, 2012)

Nice table. I got to learn how to do bowties!


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## Phaedrus (Jan 18, 2012)

Da Aardvark said:


> If the bubbles are in the epoxy and it's dried. you're going to have to live with it.
> The removal is done with a propane torch, during drying. Generally within the 1st 15 minutes and again at about the 45 minute point. It's a judgment call when playing with it.
> 
> Never pour epoxy in more than 1/8th inch layers.
> ...


Personally, I have had more trouble with air bubbles with faster drying epoxies. Longer open times for the glue must allow the bubbles more time to escape.

If you are unsatisfied with the epoxy fill, you could (theoretically) use a small router and remove what is there. I suspect, however, that the edge wouldn't be seamless when you tried to re-fill it. I've never tried this, so i can't speak from experience--though it does sound tedious. I know that there is opaque black epoxy as well. Again, I haven't used this so I can't speak to how effective it is or how it looks. It seems to me that opaque epoxy would have fewer visible air bubbles in the finished product.

Bubbles or not, I am still really into this table. If the dark wood snobs of the world don't appreciate, I can look after it for you :thumbsup:


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