# Mitered corner fix



## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

So I'm struggling through building a toy/dress up clothes box for my god daughter. I cut the edges of the box to 45 degrees and I still have gaps in some of the joints. I am using 3/4 inch oak boards and I glued the sides and bottom of the box up with titebond 2. Is there a trick to filling in the voids? I've read about using a screw driver on the corners to fold them over but that seems a bit extreem. Anyone have a good way to hide or fix the gaps? THey are no more then an 1/16th of an inch.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Are Ya feelin' cornered?*

For a clear finish, you can hand plane the sharp corners down to a flat, say 3/8" wide or so and glue on a contrasting 1/8" strip of darker wood. Just so you know mitered corners are very difficult to make unless you have very precise equipment and very flat wood. Either a slight variation on the angle or the depth of the miter or a warp in the wood will create a gap. You could have all 3? 
A toy box tells me "paint", if so that will make it easier. I have used Bondo, Durhams Rock Hard, and lacquer putty with good results. Even a Spackle product will fill narrow gaps.
BTW: Sometimes you have to turn a mistake into a design element.  bill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

With gaps that wide, I would worry about how good the joint is. You didn't say what the finish will be. If it's a natural or stained finish, fill won't fix the integrity of the joint. If it's painted, you could countersink some screws.

Personally, I would redo the box. Dry fitting the joinery would be a good indicator of the finished box. 












 









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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

I measured with my calipers and the biggest gap is .035 inches. I really didnt want to paint the box because it was wood I milled and has very pretty grain. I was thinking of staining it. I can add corner brackets to the insides if I need to. Should I just round the corners down and sand them?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

pwoller said:


> I measured with my calipers and the biggest gap is .035 inches. I really didnt want to paint the box because it was wood I milled and has very pretty grain. I was thinking of staining it. I can add corner brackets to the insides if I need to. Should I just round the corners down and sand them?


If you can secure the corners so they won't separate, that would be the way to go. You could use trim screws to hold it together. You could peen the edges gently to close the gap. Any holes you have to make can be filled with touch up crayon after finishing.












 









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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

If I put a couple spleens into each corner would that add strength to the joints?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

pwoller said:


> If I put a couple *spleens* into each corner would that add strength to the joints?


I hope they won't come from anyone living.:smile: If done right, *splines* won't close the gap, but will keep the parts from coming apart.












 









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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

Sorry splines. When you say peen the edges closed do you mean with a hammer?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Huh?*

I thought the box was assembled? How you gonna put the splines in? Just askin' :blink: bill


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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

Like this.

http://www.azwoodman.com/splined-miter-joints.html


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## NYwoodworks (Sep 19, 2010)

I am with Cman on this one. If it were me I would probably build another one. 

The reason being every time you look at it you are going to get a frustrated feeling wishing the joints fit together. It is going to gnaw at you and drive you nuts and you will loose sleep over it. When you build something like this consider the fact that it may be around a long time haunting you. 
This may be a little harsh but you get the point..LOL!!

With that being said wouldn't be nice to see it and go ahhhhh what a nice job I did?

I am not trying to guilt you into redoing it but if you do decide to, check your equipment for accuracy and like Cman said dry fit or sample fit a scrap piece before you glue it. 

Many times on outside corners I may go "just ever so slightly" beyond 45 degree's just so the outside corners meet at the point better.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Of course*



pwoller said:


> Like this.
> 
> http://www.azwoodman.com/splined-miter-joints.html


Then I would look into this Dovetail Spline Jig since it will "lock" the joints together, rather than just a superficial insert. :thumbsup: bill


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## pwoller (Dec 12, 2010)

NYwoodworks said:


> I am with Cman on this one. If it were me I would probably build another one.
> 
> The reason being every time you look at it you are going to get a frustrated feeling wishing the joints fit together. It is going to gnaw at you and drive you nuts and you will loose sleep over it. When you build something like this consider the fact that it may be around a long time haunting you.
> This may be a little harsh but you get the point..LOL!!
> ...


I appreciate the suggestion but I'm not starting over. Good tip in the just over 45 degrees on the edges to get the points to align.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

pwoller said:


> I appreciate the suggestion but I'm not starting over. Good tip in the just over 45 degrees on the edges to get the points to align.


Given the stock is all absolutely the same thickness and not warped or twisted, good miters require BOTH accurate 45* angles AND the opposite sides MUST be of equal length. I always check my saw with a square before cutting the angles and use stop blocks for cutting the sides.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Corner splines*


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## SteveEl (Sep 7, 2010)

Don't do joinery with a living person's spleen... :laughing:



As a beginner, here's my take on goofs and starting over....

I first look to my work for structural safety and that's a moving target depending on how the thing might get used. If my daughter could climb on it when my back is turned, then I assume she will, and I overengineer it.

Next, I am just starting to look at beauty and perfection as a secondary goal, and well..... I've got a ways to go. But I rarely junk my work. I'm collecting neat rocks that I want to one day build into a hearth and mantlepiece of native rock. Each one's different and each will have a story. Many of my woodshop goofs are similar. I set my eye on perfection, I give it all I've got, and sometimes I still screw up, but then I take pride in giving it my best. Sometimes I even enjoy seeing my mistakes, since they all have their story as I acquire better skills. That's the sort of thing I want my kid to learn... so I have to be that way myself. 

So good for you! I probably wouldn't start over either.

I like Bill's ideas of turning it into a design element (maybe distress the rest of the wood?) and also trimming out the corner with some contrasting wood. You could cover it with some decorative metal work too, sort of like old steamer trunks used.


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