# How to install beadboard wainscot / trim



## BigBadBuford (Jan 13, 2012)

Our basement was flooded this past summer and instead of refinishing the drywall I picked up some beadboard wainscot paneling to cover up where I patched in the drywall. 

My question is how to install the trim correctly. I want to re-use the base trim since I was able to salvage it and it is pretty nice. From what I've read if you are re-using the existing base trim you can just install it on top of the paneling. However, this will be an issue by the stairs since it will kick the base trim out 1/4" past the skirt board. My idea was to cut a rabbet in the top of the base trim so I that I could slip the paneling in. If I did this.. I believe I would also have to do the same to the skirt board on the stairs. Would this be the correct way to install this? Or should the paneling just be butted-up against the trim? 

Also, to top off the paneling I was trying to find chair rail thick enough to cut a rabbet in to slip on top of the paneling, but all of the trim I found was too thin to do that without ruining the bottom profile on the trim. I ended up getting some casing I thought would work.. but after reading another thread on using plastic trim I'm thinking about taking it back and replacing it with some wood trim. Should the chair rail be rabbeted to fit the panelling, or should this also be installed either on top of the paneling or butted up against the top edge?

Thanks!

- John


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I think that what you proposed for the bottom sounds fine.

For the top chair rail I have done exactly that with material I purchased from Lowes. I have gotten it two different times so I know it is regular stock.

If I can find a piece that is left over I will post a picture so that you can see the profile.

George


----------



## carpentry masters (Jan 18, 2012)

If it comes to installing the baseboard just do what you've planned to do. Nail it on top of the wall panels and portion of the baseboard profile that will stick out of the stair case nicely bevel with 22.5' angle or other (personal preference).
Now, there are few good solutions to finish wall panels from top.
1. Buy specially shaped piece that gets the job done quick (look at the pic. 1 and 2), HD and Lowes doesn't carry them but look for your local lumber yards for supply (these on the pictures come from Garden State Lumber) 
2. Make that piece custom using few different simple moldings stack together (see drawing)

Good luck !
Sebastian


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

you can rabbet the base molding, or just apply the molding over the top of the paneling as you mentioned. the chair rail, if you haven't purchased it yet, is available with the rabbet for wainscot application already machined in. most places carry it. you will have difficulty machining in much of a rabbet on normal chair rail without altering the profile a bunch, they don't leave much meat on those.


----------



## LearnByDoing (Jan 18, 2012)

I agree with carpentry masters.. on top you use a premilled cap just for the purpose or you can do a build-up. I just did this project in my mudroom. On top I used 1x4 poplar and rabbited the edge to fit over the beadboard. I milled a couple of shadow lines in it lengthwise with the tip of my tablesaw blade set to 45deg. to add some interest. I capped the 1x4 with some halfround nosing and under the nosing (over the 1x4) I used a cove moulding. A pretty typical 3 piece build-up.

On the bottom I would NOT bother rabbiting the baseboard. Just bevel the exposed end like was suggested so the bevel tapers down to meet the face of the skirt. That's how I handled the baseboard meeting my door casings. It's a nice look once sanded and painted.


----------



## BigBadBuford (Jan 13, 2012)

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will try to install the base trim on top of the paneling... that will make the install easier. As for the chair rail, I did see the pre-cut trim at HD, but they only sold it in matched packs of base trim and chair rail. I will check around with some local lumber yards and see if they carry the chair rail by itself.

Thanks!

John


----------



## Poodle Head Mikey (Jan 21, 2012)

*Why not just glue on a filler piece?*

It's not miles of rail, right? So rather than rabbet - why not just cut a filler piece the same thickness as the wainscote and glue it to the back of the trim you want to use? Leave it a little proud and then run it through the table saw (or shaper is the top edge isn't flat / square) to make it perfect easily.

PHM
------





BigBadBuford said:


> Our basement was flooded this past summer and instead of refinishing the drywall I picked up some beadboard wainscot paneling to cover up where I patched in the drywall.
> 
> My question is how to install the trim correctly. I want to re-use the base trim since I was able to salvage it and it is pretty nice. From what I've read if you are re-using the existing base trim you can just install it on top of the paneling. However, this will be an issue by the stairs since it will kick the base trim out 1/4" past the skirt board. My idea was to cut a rabbet in the top of the base trim so I that I could slip the paneling in. If I did this.. I believe I would also have to do the same to the skirt board on the stairs. Would this be the correct way to install this? Or should the paneling just be butted-up against the trim?
> 
> ...


----------



## thomask (Apr 6, 2011)

Beadboard just looks good even when using some plain old square stock as trim. 

It sure improved the look on our kitchen bar from some old paneling after a number of coats of paint.


----------

