# Help with bathroom vanity



## jeepers (Mar 3, 2011)

Looking for some plans for a 72" double sink vanity. Seems all the tube and all the woodworking magazines, only address single small vanities. I do ok with plans, but fairly new to woodworking. I want to put 3 drawers in the middle, 2 doors on each side.Do you build the face frame first or the case first. I will use 3/4 plywood for the case, 3/4 popular for face frame and drawers. I want to have all doors and drawers to only have about 1/8th between them. 
All help from the experts really appreciated.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

boyd pettitt said:


> Looking for some plans for a 72" double sink vanity. Seems all the tube and all the woodworking magazines, only address single small vanities. I do ok with plans, but fairly new to woodworking. I want to put 3 drawers in the middle, 2 doors on each side.Do you build the face frame first or the case first. I will use 3/4 plywood for the case, 3/4 popular for face frame and drawers. I want to have all doors and drawers to only have about 1/8th between them.
> All help from the experts really appreciated.


For what you are doing I would cut the doors and drawer fronts first out of one sheet of plywood. Keep tract of how you cut the doors and drawer fronts so they will install on the cabinet so it still looks like one sheet of plywood with the grain matching. 

Normally with this type of construction there is not a faceframe made. The doors just mount to the box. Just make your components match up with the seams on your doors and drawers.


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## asevereid (Apr 15, 2012)

Something like this?:
http://www.google.ca/imgres?sa=X&biw=1366&bih=644&tbm=isch&tbnid=_l0a3z4yfYmmOM%3A&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fsketchup.google.com%2F3dwarehouse%2Fdetails%3Fmid%3Db12c3a046c326ca1d9b228d02c3319a3&docid=PLTh9FjTV1jTyM&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fsketchup.google.com%2F3dwarehouse%2Fdownload%253Fmid%253Db12c3a046c326ca1d9b228d02c3319a3%2526rtyp%253Dlt%2526ctyp%253Dother%2526ts%253D1348183533000&w=400&h=206&ei=I8EGU_7FCY-AogTA1oKwAQ&zoom=1&ved=0CFMQhBwwAA&iact=rc&dur=464&page=1&start=0&ndsp=20

Or this?:








EDIT:
My bad, disregard the above info...I thought you meant a 1/8th gap between the doors; as in a full inlay cabinet.


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## jeepers (Mar 3, 2011)

I am painting cab black. Would I not have to cover all that plywood edges on the drawers and doors? I had planned on popular doors and fronts.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Will the doors and drawers have an overlap both horizontally and vertically, which would require a cross rail between the drawers?
Just asking.

If it were me, I would build the face frame first. Then build the cabinet to fit as needed. Make the panels for the drawers flush with the drawer openings. That would make it easy for side mount drawer slides, if that is what you are planning to use.

It would look similar to this. I finished this buffet just in time for Christmas Dinner. Prefinished birch plywood for the inside, poplar face frame and drawers, drawer fronts and raised panel doors.
Mike


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

boyd pettitt said:


> I am painting cab black. Would I not have to cover all that plywood edges on the drawers and doors? I had planned on popular doors and fronts.


 The edges of the doors and drawer fronts would paint a lot easier if they were veneer taped but if you wished you could just use a couple of extra coats of primer and it would achieve the same result. If you use poplar plywood from the box stores be sure to tap your fingernail all over the face of the sheet and listen for hollow spots. I've gotten plywood where they veneered over knot holes and the spots over the knots will wrinkle up when you paint it. It's just better to cut around those spots.


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## jeepers (Mar 3, 2011)

I am going to try for a flush finish across the front. Another question...to keep all the drawers and doors rigid where the gaps will stay the same, which kind of drawer slides and door hinges are the best. I have had problems with European hinges on larger doors. I want to use solid popular for the doors and drawers and drawer fronts. This will be my first try at making raised panel doors with my new router bits that Santa brought


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

boyd pettitt said:


> I am going to try for a flush finish across the front. Another question...to keep all the drawers and doors rigid where the gaps will stay the same, which kind of drawer slides and door hinges are the best. I have had problems with European hinges on larger doors. I want to use solid popular for the doors and drawers and drawer fronts. This will be my first try at making raised panel doors with my new router bits that Santa brought



We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself. If you fill out your profile in your "User Control Panel", you can list any hobbies, experience or other facts. You can also list your general geographical location which would be a help in answering some questions. In doing that your location will show under your username when you post. 



I would do the cabinet without a face frame. Euro hinges work well if installed properly. I would use side mount full extension slides. Your planned gaps should be permanent. 












 







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## CarpenterSFO (Jan 30, 2014)

boyd pettitt said:


> ... Another question...to keep all the drawers and doors rigid where the gaps will stay the same, which kind of drawer slides and door hinges are the best. I have had problems with European hinges on larger doors...


If you buy Blum or Accuride slides and hinges rather than the big-box knockoffs they should be plenty sturdy. Build 5-piece drawers and adjust the fronts to fit the openings when you install. Blum hinges are nicely adjustable for the doors.

Which drawer slides to use is largely a matter of aesthetics and price. I like the Blum Tandems because they're hidden below the drawer, but they're pricey.


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