# Thinning Oil Based Poly



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hello,

I am using an oil based poly on a table i am making. 

I noticed two things:

It's a minwax product and has some solids that have settled out on the bottom of the can. I breoke these up and stirred gently but the solids don't completey dissolve. They kind of suspend in the liquid and end up on the peice. Not good. I took it back and had them check several cans and all of them have the same solid build up on the bottom of the can. None of the cans have expired dates on them. Should i just strain out the solids and use anyway?

Second, this poly is pretty thick. Can I / should I thin it? if so what ratio should i use?

I am going to put this on with a natural bristle brush. Any reason not to use a brush?

Thanks,
Tom


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Tom,
I personally am not a minwax fan. I just got done using a wipe on urethane from general finishes. I bought it at the local woodcraft store. Easy to use, worked well, easy cleanup, no thinning necessary. I am getting ready to post a few pics of the top where I'll explain a little more.
Mike Hawkins


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

firehawkmph said:


> Tom,
> I personally am not a minwax fan. I just got done using a wipe on urethane from general finishes. I bought it at the local woodcraft store. Easy to use, worked well, easy cleanup, no thinning necessary. I am getting ready to post a few pics of the top where I'll explain a little more.
> Mike Hawkins


Hi Mike,

Thank you. Maybe I'll look around for another product. I'll see if we have that brand locally. I was at all pleased with the minwax product on the test peices i did. 

I'll look forward to seeing your finished work on the top when you post it.

Thanks for all your help.

Tom


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

Those solids do eventually dissolve back into the poly, may take a bit if vigorous stirring. I have found that once you thin it, you need to use it up or it will quickly crust over in the can.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Tom5151 said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> Thank you. Maybe I'll look around for another product. I'll see if we have that brand locally. I was at all pleased with the minwax product on the test peices i did.
> 
> ...


Hey Mike,

Can the poly product you use be put on over a light coat of sanding sealer?


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Just Bill said:


> Those solids do eventually dissolve back into the poly, may take a bit if vigorous stirring. I have found that once you thin it, you need to use it up or it will quickly crust over in the can.


Thanks Bill,

Yeah for some reason a lot of it is not dissolving. I took back one can already and the second can is doing the same. I may try out another product just to compare results.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

firehawkmph said:


> Tom,
> I personally am not a minwax fan. I just got done using a wipe on urethane from general finishes. I bought it at the local woodcraft store. Easy to use, worked well, easy cleanup, no thinning necessary. I am getting ready to post a few pics of the top where I'll explain a little more.
> Mike Hawkins


 
Hey Mike,

I notice that General Finishes has several different polys. Which of their poly product do you use specifically to get the best results?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tom5151 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am using an oil based poly on a table i am making.
> 
> ...



Here's what I do. First go get a fresh gallon can with a lid...they're only a coupla bucks. If you have a quart can of the finish, stir not shake it until your wrist gets sore. Then use a clean strainer and strain into the gallon can.

Then use about 2-3 ounces of mineral spirits in the quart can and scrape all the residue from the strainer into the quart can. Allow it to sit covered for maybe 30 minutes or until most all of the residue has dissolved. Then, use a clean strainer and pour that into the gallon can.

If you are brushing or wiping on the finish, you could still add 2-3 more ounces of mineral spirits to the gallon can. This works with oil base varnishes and oil base polyurethanes, to allow them to flow out better. Your overall thinning of 10%-20% is a fair target. If you brush it on, use the best brush you can afford, like badger hair. It's technique more than the quality of the medium. Developing the stroke of the brush with "feathering" into and out of the stroke without working it too much will give good results. Do many thin coats versus few heavy ones.

Wiping on the finish also works very well, and may be more foolproof. Use a clean lint free "T" shirt type rag, and wipe in the direction of the grain. Try it on samples, and again thin coats work best.


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> Here's what I do. First go get a fresh gallon can with a lid...they're only a coupla bucks. If you have a quart can of the finish, stir not shake it until your wrist gets sore. Then use a clean strainer and strain into the gallon can.
> 
> Then use about 2-3 ounces of mineral spirits in the quart can and scrape all the residue from the strainer into the quart can. Allow it to sit covered for maybe 30 minutes or until most all of the residue has dissolved. Then, use a clean strainer and pour that into the gallon can.
> 
> ...


Hello sir,

You always provide superb detailed advice. Thank you very much for that.

I will try your method for thinning and "cleaning" my current poly of all the gunk. Sounds pretty straightforward.

I have decided to forget the brush technique as well and wipe on instead. I got a General Finishes wipe on poly that I am going to try to compare results with the minwax product that I need to clean up and thin before using.

Thanks again sir......


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## goldnstuff101 (Feb 15, 2009)

*minwax*

This is off topic some but I build small Myrtlewood chests and use minwax spar polly spray cans and have had several bad cans. I am sure it is because of the same buildup in the bottom of the can. They do not put in a shaker ball. I think it is for that reason. Anyway I bitched to them on line. The gal asked the lot #s and low and behold a week later I received a case at my door step.

I thought that was super so I have stayed with them. I build about 10 chests a week so that is alot of cans.

stay safe
goldnstuff101


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

hmmmmmmmmmmmm....i may need to try that......


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Tom,
The finish I used from General was their wipe on urethane in a high gloss. It also comes in satin and semi-gloss. As far as it going over a sanding sealer, I don't see why not. As long as you have sanded the sealer and tack ragged, it should work fine. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Mike,

Thank you. I picked up a quart of their Satin finish.....Gonna get started this weekend. I'll post some pics when finished


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## zaruser (Feb 17, 2009)

Tom5151 said:


> Mike,
> 
> Thank you. I picked up a quart of their Satin finish.....Gonna get started this weekend. I'll post some pics when finished


 
Hi Tom, Just a quick note for you on using a sanding sealer. Make sure it doesn't have "styrates" in it if your top coating with any type of poly.The two don't mix, and poly will delaminate.In reading your blogs, I have always had great sucess using Zar polys and stains. Very high quality.
Thanks,Bob


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## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

zaruser said:


> Hi Tom, Just a quick note for you on using a sanding sealer. Make sure it doesn't have "styrates" in it if your top coating with any type of poly.The two don't mix, and poly will delaminate.In reading your blogs, I have always had great sucess using Zar polys and stains. Very high quality.
> Thanks,Bob


Hi Bob,

Thank you very much for the input and advice. I think from what you said about the sanding sealer i am good to go putting poly over the top. 

I'll check out the Zar products as I experiment further on future projects.

Thanks,
Tom


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I don't use the sticky kind of tack rags anymore. A dry tack rag if one is to be used at all won't leave any adhesive residue on the work.


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