# Craftsman table saw upgrades



## Dylan JC Buffum (Jun 9, 2019)

Yesterday I bought my first table saw, a used Craftsman 113.299315 table saw. It’s in good shape.

I haven’t really had a chance to put it through it’s paces yet, but I expect to use it as-is for a while. Nonetheless, I‘ve been googling about to see what kind of upgrades there are when budget allows.

First priority is a riving knife or splitter. As far as I can tell there’s no after-market riving knife for this machine, right? Frankly, it looks like there's no space for a riving knife to be mounted behind the blade, so probably a no. I see these MicroJig splitters online. Is that the way to go? Also, a zero-clearance plate? 

The fence is a Craftsman XR-2412. Any insight into the quality? It moves smoothly and locks tight. Ive been having a hard time figuring out whether after-market fences will be compatible with this saw. None of the ones I see seem to be make/model specific. Does that mean there’s an industry standard for fence mounts that is universal, or nearly so?

Similarly, the wings are stamped, and if I wanted to upgrade to cast, would the ones I see on Woodcraft’s website or similar be a universal fit?

The last general question is about a source for information on the manufacture of this saw. I know the Craftsman prefix 113.xxx corresponds to machines made by Emerson Electric Co. but can’t find any more detail. Is there a database somewhere that will tell me the year and place of manufacture? Known issues with this particular model?
Thanks


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

In case you need a manual.
CRAFTSMAN 113.299315 OWNER'S MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib


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## Dylan JC Buffum (Jun 9, 2019)

Dave McCann said:


> In case you need a manual.
> CRAFTSMAN 113.299315 OWNER'S MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib


Thanks! Helpful.

I’m also interested in a basic tune-up guide for table saws generally, or this unit specifically. And any insight into this saw’s particular needs and flaws.

Anyone know what this apparatus is? It looks like maybe a mount for a blade guard? It moves with the arbor.


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## Eman85 (Aug 21, 2019)

That part on the back is where the guard connected. My saw is 40 years old and had the stamped table extensions. When my motor went bad I bought a complete used saw for a lot less than a motor and it had cast extensions so I swapped them over along with the motor.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

The best test of your new machine is the one you do. Using the fence is particularly subjective for example. Is it aligned parallel to the miterslot? It should be an easy fix or adjustment if not. Slide the fence over so the slot just appears under the edge and look down to check for any difference from parallel. Can your finger feel any difference as you move it along the miter slot?
Do the elevation and bevel controls operate smoothly and without straining? If not, clean out the threads on the rods with a brass brush and lube them with silicone base product or "dry slide" lube.
I'd just go ahead and get a Freud Diablo 40 or 50 tooth thin kerf blade right off. I use them almost exclusively and for the money, you get good performance. For plywood and crosscuts with less tearout pickup a 60 tooth blade.
Make sure the saw and it's base are stable, and don't wobble or wiggle around.
Add an outfeed extension whether it's a separate table or a hinged support mounted on the rear of your saw. It must have groove to allow the mitergauge bar to fully travel out at the rear. It can be a 1/16" or so lower than the saw's table to allow for a smooth feed without the workpiece hanging up on it.
I would close off the bottom of the saw cabinet with a plywood panel or sheet metal. You don't want that dust flying around in your shop. A contractor saw is diffcult to
seal off because the belt has to exit out the back side, BUT there are quite a few methods on You Tube showing how this can be made much better. I use magnetic sign decals to seal off the slots and hole where the elevation and bevel controls come through the saw cabinet. When I need to make a change, off they come easily and go right back on.
I would relocate the ON/OFF switch to the left front corner of the saw, just behind the front rail so your thigh or hip can easily bump it OFF. This will allow you to keep your eyes on the blade and your hands on the workpiece when there's a jam or unexpected event when cutting. I have done this and it a great safety and convenience feature. No looking and reaching blindly underneath to find the switch.
Make sure your power cord is plugged into a 20 AMP circuit with no other devices to take away the power from it. Don't use any extension cords unless they are 12 GA and rated for 15 AMPs minimum. If you saw's motor can be switched to run on 230 Volts, I would change it over. It may make it start and run better, but won't actually increase it's power and you can use the existing wiring in the wall since it will draw only 1/2 the current it needed to run on 115 Volts.
When ripping long workpiece piece like 8 ft plywood, plan ahead with supports. You actually need about 20 feet of "run" when ripping an 8 ft long piece of plywood, maybe 18 feet. If you have a "helper" make sure they do not try to control the workpiece and let you be the only one who is guiding it along the fence. They are there just to hold up the far end, nothing else.
Crosscutting using the mitergauge will be greatly improved if you add a 3/4" thick fence extension about 3.5" tall and 20" long to the face of the miter gauge. Your saw kerf will be obvious when you make the first cut and from then on you'll know exactly where to place your workpiece for accurate cuts. The same applies whether making 90 degree or any angle. Cut right into the extension so you know where your kerf is, just don't raise the blade up so high as to saw it off!
Do not use a featherboard behind the blade! It will force the workpiece into the blade and cause a kickback. Use one only in front of the red area in the insert.
Do make a zero gap insert for safety! You can simply fill in the gap on your metal insert with a thin 1/8" piece and hot glue it in place OR make an entirely new one from the correct thickness plywood, UHM, or hardwood. This will keep small slivers of cutoffs from getting jammed in the spinning blade. This will also prevent the temptation of trying to grab it out before the blade completely stop, and therefore prevent an injury.
Last be not least, install the blade guard or the splitter on the saw. The splitter on those older saws, like mine serve two fuctions. One its to attach the plastic blade cover which will help keep your fingers from entering the blade. The second, and now very well known is to keep the workpiece registered along the fence until the entire cut is made. When or IF the workpiece is allowed to move away from the rear of the fence, it will want to ride up and over the spinning blade an shoot out right back at you, a kickback. The splitter will prevent that!
As you can now see, there any al lot of things you can do to improve the safety of the new saw. 🙃


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Dylan JC Buffum said:


> Anyone know what this apparatus is? It looks like maybe a mount for a blade guard? It moves with the arbor.


Covered on pages 22, 23 and 24 in your owners manual.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

The part in question is the mount for a splitter/blade guard, unless I'm mistaken, and they are still available on Ebay:
















Craftsman 10" Table Saw Blade Guard/Splitter/Kickback Assembly mounting bracket | eBay


CRAFTSMAN 10” TABLE SAW BLADE GUARD WITH SPREADER, ANTI KICK BACK 113 SERIES. Complete with mounting bracket and bolts to attach it to your saw.



www.ebay.com


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

That fence is an upgrade. I have the manual. If you want a copy PM me your email address.

I have used that saw with the stamped wings for 37 or 38 years. Never needed the cast iron wings.


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## Dylan JC Buffum (Jun 9, 2019)

A lot of detailed and useful information, thanks! I downloaded the manual from he site linked above.



woodnthings said:


> The best test of your new machine is the one you do. Using the fence is particularly subjective for example. Is it aligned parallel to the miterslot? It should be an easy fix or adjustment if not. Slide the fence over so the slot just appears under the edge and look down to check for any difference from parallel. Can your finger feel any difference as you move it along the miter slot?


The fence _can_ be square to the edge, though it requires a little finesse. I haven't checked parallel to the miter slot. I'll do that this evening.

*If I wanted to upgrade to a better fence, what kind of specs do I need to know to tell if it fits? Are they universal-fit? I guess it's just a matter of the bolt spacing for the rails, and the overall length, right? Or is there more to it?*



woodnthings said:


> Make sure the saw and it's base are stable, and don't wobble or wiggle around.


*I was thinking of actually bolting it to the concrete floor. Good idea? Bad idea?* Could I be creating odd torque that will damage the saw? I also had the idea of building a concrete pad for it to stand on, and bolting it to that. 1/2" plywood bottom, 2x2" for sides, and fill with cement. Studs and rebar embedded. I know that would elevate it, but I don't think another 2-3" height would be a problem.



woodnthings said:


> Add an outfeed extension whether it's a separate table or a hinged support mounted on the rear of your saw. It must have groove to allow the mitergauge bar to fully travel out at the rear. It can be a 1/16" or so lower than the saw's table to allow for a smooth feed without the workpiece hanging up on it.


That's the plan. I was also planning to extend the width using separate work surfaces, and add support under the wings. I wouldn't end up with a wider rip capacity, but I'd have more stability on the out-side for wide sheet stock. Not that I'm likely to use it that way often.



woodnthings said:


> I would close off the bottom of the saw cabinet with a plywood panel or sheet metal. You don't want that dust flying around in your shop. A contractor saw is diffcult to
> seal off because the belt has to exit out the back side, BUT there are quite a few methods on You Tube showing how this can be made much better. I use magnetic sign decals to seal off the slots and hole where the elevation and bevel controls come through the saw cabinet. When I need to make a change, off they come easily and go right back on.


Is there a reason I can't seal off the motor and belt too? It's missing the belt guard, so I thought boxing it off entirely might be a good idea.



woodnthings said:


> I would relocate the ON/OFF switch to the left front corner of the saw, just behind the front rail so your thigh or hip can easily bump it OFF. This will allow you to keep your eyes on the blade and your hands on the workpiece when there's a jam or unexpected event when cutting. I have done this and it a great safety and convenience feature. No looking and reaching blindly underneath to find the switch.


I'm left handed, and tend to stand off to the right of the blade, with my right hip in. So the switch is actually where I'd want it. I do plan to replace it with a bigger magnetic switch that I have in a box somewhere.



woodnthings said:


> Do make a zero gap insert for safety! You can simply fill in the gap on your metal insert with a thin 1/8" piece and hot glue it in place OR make an entirely new one from the correct thickness plywood, UHM, or hardwood. This will keep small slivers of cutoffs from getting jammed in the spinning blade. This will also prevent the temptation of trying to grab it out before the blade completely stop, and therefore prevent an injury.


Will do. I was looking at some plastic inserts on Amazon, but perhaps I'll save a few $$ and use scraps of ply properly fitted.

Some after-market splitters are intended to be mounted as part fo the insert, right? Which brings me to...



woodnthings said:


> Last be not least, install the blade guard or the splitter on the saw. The splitter on those older saws, like mine serve two fuctions. One its to attach the plastic blade cover which will help keep your fingers from entering the blade. The second, and now very well known is to keep the workpiece registered along the fence until the entire cut is made. When or IF the workpiece is allowed to move away from the rear of the fence, it will want to ride up and over the spinning blade an shoot out right back at you, a kickback. The splitter will prevent that!
> As you can now see, there any al lot of things you can do to improve the safety of the new saw. 🙃


*This one's the kicker (literally!) I don't have the original blade guard/splitter assembly. I see some beat-up ones on eBay. I was wondering, however, whether I could use one of the MicroJig splitters, and then a separate after-market blade guard/dust collector? Would that be better? Worse? *


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## Dylan JC Buffum (Jun 9, 2019)

GeorgeC said:


> That fence is an upgrade. I have the manual. If you want a copy PM me your email address.
> 
> I have used that saw with the stamped wings for 37 or 38 years. Never needed the cast iron wings.


George, what's been your experience with the saw, generally? Any tips for keeping it up?

I've seen folks recommend the MicroJig splitters, but looking at this saw I'm not seeing a lot of space in the insert behind the blade where a splitter could be installed. Have you tried this?


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## Lennyzx11 (Dec 14, 2019)

I have one. It’s been a good saw and it has the cast extensions. 
I notice that mine has the words “Contractor Series” where yours has a red line with no words.

My fence is like yours and has worked well for me. One thing I did notice was that my fence says XR2424 where you said yours is a 2412.









I also notice that mine has wheels that can be put down or up that aren’t not on yours. I use them all the time to move mine around so I wouldn’t want to bolt it down to the floor I believe.










One of the first things I did to improve it was to adjust and square the blade and fence to the miter slot. Then I paste waxed the top and rails three or four good coats. Wouldn’t believe the difference! 
I have been boxing mine as I get pieces of 3/8” plywood scraps. It’s one of those little at a time upgrades. I had those campaign yard posters taped around the bottom for a lot of years to control sawdust. And a custom piece cut out to fit around the belt on the back.


































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

The Ebay guard I posted is $90.00 BUT you can get the mounting bracket for under $20.00:








Craftsman support bracket on Blade Guard/Splitter/Anti-Kickback Pawls 113.298XXX | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Craftsman support bracket on Blade Guard/Splitter/Anti-Kickback Pawls 113.298XXX at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com




The Micro jig splitter is not as effective as the OEM version in my opinion. However there's nothing "magic" about a short flat piece of wood or plastic that fits in a slot immediately behind the blade:


https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=DIY+splitter+for+table+saw+insert


I find that having a wide, clear plastic cover over the blade gets in way more often than not, so I drilled out the rivets that held mine on leaving only the tall splitter plate.
There are certain cuts that require removing the splitter, but that's kinda rare. If it were simply a matter of unscrewing it from the top or sliding it out from the top, that would be far easier than on my saw where it's attached to the mount and bracket as I posted. So, a DIY version is worth looking at.
Look on You Tube for dust collection ideas for the Craftsman contractor saw. There were some threads here on that subject also.
No need to bolt it to the floor. Just a plywood base with some weights on it would be fine. You may need to move for an unexpected event? It just can not be tippy, so the further out your base extends, the more support it will provide. Horizontal extensions with lever action foot pedals for casters are popular.


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

i bought my 10" craftsman in 1982 and never needed an upgrade. i do wish i hadn't tossed the guards. i wouldn't bolt it down unless you have 16 feet clearance all the way around your saw. you never know when your going to be ripping a 16 foot board or even squaring up the ends of that same board.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

Dylan JC Buffum said:


> George, what's been your experience with the saw, generally? Any tips for keeping it up?
> 
> I've seen folks recommend the MicroJig splitters, but looking at this saw I'm not seeing a lot of space in the insert behind the blade where a splitter could be installed. Have you tried this?


It has been a very good saw. Never gave me any problems I cannot speak to any blade guard/splitters as I was a bad boy and removed the whole assembly. I felt that there was more chance of it giving me problems than helping.

As far as maintenance goes the main thing is to keep the "underneath" parts as clean as you can. I do this by frequent blowing with my weed blower. Do not use any oil based lubes, these just are dust catchers. Keep the top waxed. I keep the top on my saw protected with a sheet of cardboard when not in use as a saw. When it is not being used as a saw it frequently is used as a table.

george


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

PS. I agree not to bolt the saw down. I think that would set up vibrations in parts of the saw that are not designed for such.

George


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## JIMMIEM (Oct 12, 2014)

I've got a Craftsman 113. oldie. The upgrades I did were PALS (precision alignment system) for dialing in the blade alignment......best $20 I ever spent, a linked belt, upgraded pulleys, and a Delta T2 rip fence. I also added grease fittings to make blade raising/lowering and tilting very easy. There are other good aftermarket rip fences. I don't know anything about the fence you currently have. If after aligning the blade you find your fence is accurate then stay with it. The Delta fence required re-drilling it's rail mounting holes to line up with the holes in the table saw.....the important spec is the length of the fence must work with the front to back dimension of the table. Pros and cons to both the stamped and cast iron wings. If I didn't have the original splitter I'd probably go with the micro-jigs before spending $90 for the original.


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