# Bed Rail Thickness



## cibula11 (Feb 14, 2008)

One final question.....I hope.

The rails I had planned on using for the twin daybed are 1x6 select pine. Upon further inspection, I wonder if 1x6 (3/4" x 5 1/2") will be enough for a side rail?

My other option is to double up two 1x6 to create a thicker side rail or use a 1x2 and a 1x3, which would create a gap that I could use for slats instead of attaching a ledger to the rail itself.

Ideas?


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

Think I would double them up, and work from there.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

IMO a 1x6 is a bit thin and would have the ability to flex. I would just use a 2x6. Not to double up.












 







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## MrWoodworking (Apr 14, 2011)

I would say it depends a bit on the intended user. A bed for children versus a bed for a 300 lb adult would need to be built a bit different.

That said, I own a set of bunk beds that uses a 1x6 for the rails and has a full length 3/4" by 3/4" cleat affixed inside the rail to hold the cross supports. This little extra strip adds a surprising level of extra strength. 

I was afraid to go on the bed at first, but after my initial hesitation, it seems plenty strong, and I'm over 200lbs.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*What wood is it?*



MrWoodworking said:


> I would say it depends a bit on the intended user. A bed for children versus a bed for a 300 lb adult would need to be built a bit different.
> *
> That said, I own a set of bunk beds that uses a 1x6 for the rails and has a full length 3/4" by 3/4" cleat affixed inside the rail to hold the cross supports. This little extra strip adds a surprising level of extra strength. *
> 
> I was afraid to go on the bed at first, but after my initial hesitation, it seems plenty strong, and I'm over 200lbs.


If it's oak or maple probably not an issue, but the OP wants to use pine....clear? no. 2? If it were me I would use a 1 x 6 outside and a 1 x 4 as a cleat inside, glued together. It may be difficult to get a 2 x 6 in pine...I donno. Tight knots aren't an issue, but loose ones could be. 
I totally agree on the end user being a factor, but you never know who's gonna sit on the edge and "test it out" could be a whole line of kids/teens. Therefore over build it as a safety factor. :yes: bill


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## cibula11 (Feb 14, 2008)

woodnthings said:


> If it's oak or maple probably not an issue, but the OP wants to use pine....clear? no. 2? If it were me I would use a 1 x 6 outside and a 1 x 4 as a cleat inside, glued together. It may be difficult to get a 2 x 6 in pine...I donno. Tight knots aren't an issue, but loose ones could be.
> I totally agree on the end user being a factor, but you never know who's gonna sit on the edge and "test it out" could be a whole line of kids/teens. Therefore over build it as a safety factor. :yes: bill


I think I'll do this. Glue and screw the 1x6 to a 1x3 or 1x4.(It's select pine..no knots)

If I use two 1x6's glued together, I'll have a width of 39 1/2", which gives me a half inch for a twin mattress. Still doable, but a little tighter.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

cibula11 said:


> I think I'll do this. Glue and screw the 1x6 to a 1x3 or 1x4.(It's select pine..no knots)
> 
> If I use two 1x6's glued together, I'll have a width of 39 1/2", which gives me a half inch for a twin mattress. Still doable, but a little tighter.


If you are using off the shelf dimensional lumber from the home centers, they wont be flat, or straight enough to glue together as is and give two good mating surfaces.

Using a 1x6 doesn't give much thickness at the ends to join with either traditional joinery methods or in using metal bed rail fasteners. 












 







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