# Milling Cypress



## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

I'll be milling some cypress logs to 4/4 x 6" but I was wondering if it would hurt to 4/4 the sides to my main stack,then just get max straitline and dry it like that? Will it be stable enough not to banana if and when I decide to rip it narrower? I do realize that being a softwood "stable" may not be the best choice of words but I'm sure you understand my concerns.
Thanks James


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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

Since things were slow yesterday thought I would bump it back up. Also was wondering if dried cedar 1x1's would be good stickers. I'll be drying it in my D/H kiln.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

JMC'sLT30 said:


> . . . 4/4 the sides to my main stack,then just get max straitline and dry it like that? ....


I know I should, but I just don't understand the question James. 






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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

TexasTimbers said:


> I know I should, but I just don't understand the question James.


I had to read it a few times too, still not sure I get it...but here goes. Yes on the stickers, those will be fine. I am trying to understand your first question. Unless I have a specific use in mind I always mill as wide as I can and rip after dry if it needs it for whatever project. The wider (hardwood in my case) may cup, but I am ripping it anyway so I can rip the cup out. If it doesn't cup I have wide stock to use, if I need it. I almost exclusively mill for furniture grade and saw stuff 14''-24'' wide all the time, stacked and stickered right it stays flat (most species). If you are cutting this cypress for siding or something I think milling wide then ripping later is a ton more work than just doing it on the mill. If you are just milling for general purpose/future unknown uses, I would just mill out whatever you can once you get the log squared down. However wide that is. If, like I said I understood the question.


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## slabmaster (Mar 30, 2008)

*question*

I think he's asking if he can sticker the boards on there sides instead of on the flat. I wouldn't do that myself as they might bow on you or even cup ass they dry. Are you trying to save room in the kiln by doing that?


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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stack as in whole stacks you can get from the log all the same width (6") which is my primary size for t&g or shiplap. Also thought that since I have to flat saw to the main stack of prefered size if it did'nt matter I would just lethem wide as possible. Other than stacking them on edge I beleive everything was understood correctly.
Thanks James:icon_smile:


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I understand better but it must be a Tennessee thing because some of your wording is foreign to me. For the part I *think* I do understand now . . . 



JMC'sLT30 said:


> Stack as in whole stacks you can get from the log all the same width (6") which is my primary size for t&g or shiplap.


I gather all you're saying here is if you sawed the 4 slabs off of a log plus the second cuts (having some wane usually), and then saw through the cant (what's left once no bark is on it anymore - like a RR tie without the creosote) and just sawed through and through straight down without flipping the cant? Because if that's the question the answer is .... of course you can. But that's not always the best way to take a log apart and still end up with the same width lumber.




JMC'sLT30 said:


> Also thought that since I have to flat saw to the main stack of prefered size . . .


What do you mean by _"have to flat saw to the main stack of preferred size....."_? I just don't get that because I've never heard this kind of terminology used when describing milling processes. I'm eager to learn though. 



Edit: Ha I get it. We need to talk this take 20 minutes of typing. By saying _"... flat saw *to the main stack*..."_ that was throwing me off bigtime. Dude you have got to quit using these made-up terms. There is no "main stack" inside a sawlog. :no: Maybe I will be in a mood to type a lot in the morning but right now the mystery is over and I have much to do. :laughing: 

Seriously we can have another yak session if you want. I know where you're coming from now. 







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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

LOL:laughing: You don't have to type back, I'll just try to explain myself a little more thoroughly. First of all I did'nt make up the term, I picked it up at the sawmill forum (enough said, HA HA). Stacks being how many whole stacks of the same size of good usable lumber without too much banana factor going on and still be a productive milling process thrugh a single log. The only possible cant that you would leave would be the heart area which is probably only good for dunnage. I am just trying to get the very most out of these logs with the least amonut of waste. Ultimately my goal was to have all 4/4 x 6s to dry out and mill to the next level.


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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

Maybe this will help explain, that is if the attachment works.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

I think what I should have said is _"Quit using standard industry terminology and use Texan slang terms."_ 

Honestly I have never heard some of the terms you used but hey I am an isolated Texan, not around any other logging and milling except for my own. But now to try to answer your question in light of understanding your question . . . I don't know. Let's whistle Dixie until someone comes along that does know because Cypress is not easy to dry without a lot of degrade from what I remember.

But I have never milled or dried cypress. I built a very large deck out of it around the '01 '02 time frame but that isn't anything like milling it obviously. I hate the smell of it when machining it and the sinus problems I had afterward are unmatched by any other species to date. Cypress is one of the species you don't want to throw right into the kiln if I remember some of the things I've read about it. I just did a search and got many conflicting results, but if I had to bet I'd say air drying first is mandatory with cypress. 

That's specific to the species, but in general, is your concern whether the wood closer to the pith is more prone to movement than the wood closer to the bark? If that's what you mean I can say unequivocally that closer to the pith = more cupping. Flat sawn outer jackets (closest to the bark) will tend to bow more. There's other general rules about where the lumber comes from in the log, and how it is milled that you probably know. I think I'll sit back watch at this point as I don't think I can help much. 

Hope you don't get too much of that nasty cold stuff. I think we're going to miss the brunt of it. They're saying Tuesday will be 14 with 40MPH winds. Ain't liking that but I know others up nawth are going to be in for it. 









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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

Thanks Kevin, most of my work is with western red cedar, white pine, and vintage barn timbers. I intintionally try to stay away from cypress with my timber frame, for one thing it smells like sewer and another is that it's heavy (80% water). These particular logs are from the high ground so they should be better. I'm waiting on a builder to deliver 10 trusses worth of 8x10 cypress,"yuk but it's a livin". Were you able to open the attachment? Thanks again, later.


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

James, it might help if you type slowly and use short words when conversing with out Texas brethren. Plus he is a proud new pappa with all of those puppies and probably hasn't slept much lately.


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## Tennessee Tim (Dec 15, 2010)

Yep. We :icon_cool:********:icon_cool: got a language all our own:thumbsup:, but didn't read any above. I think Mizers right, TYPE SLOWER it takes a while for the smoke signals to get out these here hollers and around the world to TEXAS....:icon_smile::yes:.

Congrates Tex, ain't nothing like them PUPS!!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Have a Blessed day,
Tim


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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

pics of cypress


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## garryswf (Aug 17, 2009)

JMC'sLT30 said:


> pics of cypress


 I see porchswing written all over that wood :thumbsup:


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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

garryswf said:


> I see porchswing written all over that wood :thumbsup:


Actually wall paneling and bunk beds. It's their tree and that's what they want. I'm getting some nice boards out of it so far.


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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

*milled cypress pics*

:icon_cool:


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## Daren (Oct 14, 2006)

JMC'sLT30 said:


> I'm getting some nice boards out of it so far.


Yep, sure looks like it. :yes:




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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Good looking lumber. Nice saw. It looks like straightline rip saw with a sliding table? 






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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

TexasTimbers said:


> Good looking lumber. Nice saw. It looks like straightline rip saw with a sliding table?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep, my handy dandy cabinet saw. My neighbor got him a new cnc a few years ago and sold me that saw for $2,100.00. I got decent neighbors.:yes:


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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

*Headed to the kiln*

Here we go with my first full load in the modified DAREN D/H Kiln.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

That's a fine looking lift. No demerit the first time for the out-of-plumb band. 

Kidding aside you don't want to strap a load if the stickers are too crooked. Depending on the species you'll be able to sight down the board and see a wave everywhere a band has exerted pressure and a sticker was not right underneath the band point and where a sticker should've been but wasn't. That doesn't look bad at all but just mentioning for future reference. Put emphasis on lining the stickers up exactly above each other. It's more critical than it looks and the thinner the boards the more the wave. 

If you aren't banding or weighting you can get away with less precision. 







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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

OOPS, What really sux is that I was the one that did the outta plumb one :blush:. It may not show very well in the pic but all of the stickers are stacked, at least that much is right.:laughing:


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## Mizer (Mar 11, 2010)

Another sticker comment, I have found it best to place the first and last stick as close to the end of the board. A check will often go up to the stick and then stop. Let me know if you find that to be true.


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## JMC'sLT30 (Oct 26, 2010)

Well I have the ends sealed so maybe that won't be a problem.:no:


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Mizer said:


> . . . A check will often go up to the stick and then stop. Let me know if you find that to be true.


Definitely. :thumbsup:






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