# Lathe tool questions



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I'm new to turning. I got a handful of tools to get started - A 1" roughing gouge, a 3/4" skew chisel, a 1/2" spindle gouge and a parting tool. Shortly later, lured by the allure of carbide, I added an Easy Wood Easy Rougher and an Easy Finisher. I really like the idea of not having to sharpen and I also like the idea of having that big square hunk of metal resting solidly on the tool rest. That said, I'm not getting nearly the quality of finish promised in the ads. That's OK, I can always sand, but I'm wondering if the Sorby Shear Scrapers might do a better job because of the cutting angle. I know that even though Carbide holds an edge longer than HSS, but that the edge can't be made as sharp as HSS. I'm wondering if ultimately getting a wicked smooth finish can only be accomplished with HSS tools (and some greater skill). Also curious, for those that use carbide tools, how often do you rotate the cutter to get a new edge?


----------



## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

It is not just the cutting edge which makes for a smooth finish - it is also having a bevel to rub and polish the wood.

Most carbide tools are scrapers. A scraper will not produce as smooth a finish as a cutting tool. Also no bevel to rub. Mike Hunter has some carbide tools which cut and have a bevel.

I have carbide, Mike Hunter Hercules, and high speed steel tools.

I have to say the one tool which generates the smoothest finish is my 3/4in HSS skew. It may also be the easiest tool to get a catch.


----------



## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

the problem is two fold. The typical carbide tool is a scraper. A scraper will never leave as good a finish as a sharp cutting edge presented to the wood properly. View my video on cutting a cove.




 Couple that with the fact that the flat carbide tools really don't stay that sharp very long. They do keep cutting for a very long time but they lose that really sharp edge fairly quickly. 
the Hunter carbide tools are different. They do have a little longer learning curve but it's well worth it. 
Still learning to sharpen a gouge and presenting the edge properly to the wood will produce a much better finish. Concentrate on relaxing and let the tool do the work instead of pushing the tool will also help tremendously. 
You might also check out my video on shear scraping to understand better how that works. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oeiVQLeOd4
Also look at the Hunter Hercules tool. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzrLN8SQ8ms


----------



## clpead (Oct 10, 2012)

EWT are great. I think everyone wants to master the HSS tools but it all depends on how much time you have or want to put in it. The more you use the carbide the better the cuts will be. 

I will use HSS at some point when I want to focus my time in learning to sharpen.


----------



## TomC (Oct 27, 2008)

I also went the route you went. Now I seldom use the easy tools. A roughing gouge is very easy to use and can round a spindle in short order. They also hold a edge for a long time. I can't remember the last time I used the easy tools. I would suggest that you lean to use the roughing gouge and spindle gouge. I believe you will enjoy turning more in the long run going this route.
Tom


----------



## NCPaladin (Aug 7, 2010)

This is JMHO..
I have quite a few Sorbys and like them. I looked up the item you are talking about and it looks like a standard carbide scraper with the rod ground at 45* at the tip. This puts the cutter at a 45* and allows you to keep the bar flat on the tool rest. Looks like an expensive gimmick at almost $80.
I just ordered a foot length of 1/2” sq cold rolled for $3.95 but you can buy the bar at most hardware stores. Take a screw from your Easy Wood to the store with you and buy a tap and drill bit of the correct size for about $6 for both.
Grind the 45* on one end of the square rod and drill and tap. You can swap the carbide tips from your Easy Tools to your Quickstep tool in about a minute as needed.

Or... since shear scrapers are normally used to remove a _very small_ amout of wood at the time just hold your current tool on a corner rather than flat.


----------



## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I switched to a Sorby Spindlemaster for spindles. It's easy to sharpen since you only do the flat back. Leaves an incredible finish without any sanding.


----------



## john lucas (Sep 18, 2007)

The Hunter cutters aren't your standard carbide cutter or a gimmick. They have a recessed top (think cupped) so the cutting edge is about 30 degrees and very sharp. They use a what they call nano carbide which is a hype work but what it means is the carbide particles are smaller than normal. This allows it to take a keener edge than the standard carbide cutters. These cutters were designed to cut aluminum and leave a smooth finish so they cut wood really well.
The forward tilt of the cutter makes it very forgiving when used as a scraper. However the big advantage is when you use it as a bevel rubbing tool. It will leave a finish better than any other tool you own. I guarantee. On my demos I start with a bowl gouge with a 55 degree grind, then I move to a gouge with a 40 degree grind and then a detail gouge with a 35 degree gouge. I finish with the Osprey or Hercules and then show the crowd. You can see the improved quality of cut with each stage. 
I use the regular flat mounted cutter called a #4 or #5 Hunter to finish the inside of all my boxes. They hardly need sanding. You can't do that with scrapers.


----------



## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

That's a freat video, John. I must admit to being a bit afraid of my skew chisels, so I' ve never used them. I'll have to try them out this spring.


----------

