# Alternative Methods Challenge-Project #4-Jewellery Box



## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

In the original concept for the alternative methods challenge, there were 4 projects. Through the hustle, bustle and shuffle, one of those project got lost. Thanks to Longknife, it was resurrected and he did a fantastic job making it. I made a commitment to complete all of the projects in the challenge and when I make a commitment, I stick to it. With that being said, let's start making a jewellery box..................


The day started off like any other Saturday. A coffee, a bite to eat, a browse through the forum, and a trip to the shop. I picked through the walnut stack, to find usable pieces of walnut. I also picked out a nice 8/4 piece that I could mill for the cabinet of this project.










I set the fence on my jointer, and made sure that it was 90 degrees to the table.









I then surface planed the stock, checked it for flatness with a straight edge, and then edge jointed the piece to give me 2 perpendicular surfaces that were 90 degrees to each other. Hey, like my haircut?









After checking the stock for square, I moved on to my next step.










I then set up my large bandsaw, to resaw the walnut into thinner pieces. I wanted to resaw the stock, leaving enough to thickness plane it after the resaw process.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then started the noisy process of thickness planing the stock to the size that I needed.









1/2" is the required thickness and my calipers show me that I'm bang on.









I jointed one edge of each 1/2" thick piece of stock to give me a good reference point to rip the stock.









I set up my ripping blade in the table saw and squared it to the table. I then started to rip all of the 1/2" walnut to its required widths.










Here, we can see all of the pieces in their needed widths.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I installed my fine crosscut blade, checked it for square to the table, set up my miter gauge, and cross cut all of the pieces to their needed lengths.










I then installed my dado blade in a 1/2" configuration and set its height to 1/4". I then cut all of the required dados and rabbets needed for the sides of the cabinet.









I set my dado blade to a 1/4" configuration and set its height to 1/4". Using my setup blocks, I set the fence 1/8" from the blade and cut the dados needed to accept the backer board of the cabinet.










A quick dry fit shows that everything is okay so far.









Using my setup blocks, I set the fence 1/4" away from the blade.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then proceeded to cut the dados in the door pieces to accept the front panel.









I cut the pieces needed for the two shelves of the jewellery box and performed a quick dry fit.










I also cut the 1/4" ply needed for the backer board and checked for another dry fit. Using a square, I made sure that the cabinet of the jewellery box was fitting squarely.










I glued and clamped the cabinet of the jewellery box together and cleaned up the shop for the night. Tomorrow, I will continue and see how far I get. Thanks for looking in.


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## iceberg (Nov 20, 2010)

Thats alot of progress for one day! Keep up the good work!


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## lawrence (Nov 14, 2009)

great job superkenbo....man you make me tired just watching your pace

btw...how many hours so far?


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

lawrence said:


> btw...how many hours so far?


 

Approximately 5 hours, give or take 30 minutes.

Thanks for the kind words guys. I'm looking forward to tomorrows work on this project.


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## Itchy Brother (Aug 22, 2008)

Ken,I noticed a few things,You always do such fine work,this is another example.You have a lot of nifty tools,especially The things that make for accurate work.Your tools and shop look so clean.I did noticed your new haircut and I hate to get personal but is that the start of a Hot Dog starting to grow on the back of your neck??:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Itchy Brother said:


> is that the start of a Hot Dog starting to grow on the back of your neck??:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


 
More like an Octoberfest sausage Gary. :laughing:


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Ken, you continue to amaze me at every turn. I wish I had half the kewl stuff in my shop as you have in yours. Heck, I wish I was half as good at this as you are. Seems like every cut is pure perfection. :thumbsup: Except for the one on your head.... I like my hair cuts to be farther away from my head.....


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Man, that's a lot for one day! This is one I'm planning to tackle so I'm happy to see you walk through it first. (I will take considerably more time to finish!)


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Itchy Brother said:


> Ken,I noticed a few things,You always do such fine work,this is another example.You have a lot of nifty tools,especially The things that make for accurate work.Your tools and shop look so clean.....


Itchy, I forgot who first called him the Hall of Famer, but they were spot on. Does the woodworking forum have a Hall of Fame or was Kenbo inducted into another kind? He knocks 'em outa the park every time! :thumbsup: bill


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## cody.sheridan-2008 (May 23, 2010)

as usual ken an amazing project!


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## mn pete (Dec 10, 2010)

Looking good bud!


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Ken, I just started gathering my wood last night for the machinest chest and you're already finished with the carcass on this! As usual, excellent work, and a fine start to the write up. I'm looking forward to your finished project, as I already really like the walnut.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks for all of the compliments and words of encouragement guys. They are greatly appreciated. 
Today started off like yesterday. A coffee, a bite to eat, a quick browse through the forum and a journey to the shop. Not much of a journey seeing that my shop is in my back yard but a journey none the less.
As much as I love the look of walnut, I love the look of contrast even more. It is for that reason, that I have chosen to use contrasting woods for this jewellery box. I pulled down a piece of maple and cut it to length. I then set up my jointer and checked the fence for squareness to the table. I then surface jointed the stock, checked it for flatness and then edge jointed, checking once I was done for perpendicular surfaces that were 90 degrees to each other. 









I set up my bandsaw for some resaw action. I used my setup blocks to set the resaw fence at a little more than twice the required thickness of the final stock. In this case, it is set to 1 1/8". I also checked to make sure that the blade was square to the table. You can see here that I used my digital meter for this. I use this gauge for everything and I love it.









Once I got the maple cut, I set up the thickness planer and planed the cut surface parellel to the jointed surface. I only took off enough stock to remove the blade cut lines from the bandsaw.









After thickness planing, I reset the fence of my bandsaw to cut the stock in half. I was hoping to acheive some nice bookmatching, but the grain in this maple is really not that spectacular. I'm sure that it will be a little better when the finish is put on to bring out the grain a little more.









I jointed one edge of each piece of maple, and set up my ripping blade in the table saw. I made sure that it was 90 degrees to the table and cut my stock to 1/2 of the final width of the board. In this case, it was 4 1/8".


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I applied glue to both inside surfaces and set up my bar clamps.









We can see here that I have quite a bit of squeeze out happening. I'm not too concerned. I also opted not to use cauls, but instead, clamped the boards down to the bar clamps.









After the glue has set for 10-15 minutes, I use a scraper and the squeeze out comes off quite easily. You can see how clean the area is behind the scraper.









I put my maple panel aside to dry and I moved on to the drawers. I dug through my scrap maple pile because I'm hoping to use some of the scrap that I have for this project. I found quite a bit of scrap that was useable.









I jointed, thickness planed and ripped to width all of the scrap maple that I would need. I then set up my fine cross cut blade and my miter gauge and cut all of the drawer pieces to the correct lengths. While I had the miter gauge and blade set up, I also unclamped my maple panel and cut it to the required length.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I installed my dado blade in the table saw in a 3/8" configuration, and using my setup blocks, I set the height to 1/4". Using my miter fence, I cut the rabbet on each end of the maple panel. I then set up my table saw fence and cut the rabbet in each side of the front surface of the panel.









A dry test fit looks good.









I then sanded the interior of the walnut pieces and both sides of the maple panel to a grit of 220.









After the clamping of the door assembly, I check to ensure that everything is square and leave the door to dry. Be sure to clean up any squeeze out before it dries.









Considering that my dado blade is already set up as is my miter fence, I then cut the rabbets needed for the front and back pieces of each of the drawers.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I installed my ripping blade and made sure that it was 90 degrees to the table. I set the height of the blade and set my fence to make the 1/8" dado to accept the drawer bottom and leave 1/8" of material at the bottom of the drawer.









You can see here that all of the dados have been cut in the bottom of all of the side pieces.









Using the same setup, I also cut the dados in the lower end of the front and back pieces of the drawers.









I then cut the 1/8" hardboard panels for the drawer bottoms.









A dry fit showed everything was A-okay, so I glued up the drawers, clamped them and checked them for square. Everything's looking good here.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Once the glue was dried, I sanded the door, the case and the drawers to a grit of 220. This next photo is just a gentle reminder to keep safety in mind. Safety is not necessarily about keeping your fingers, it's also about keeping the dust out of your lungs. Keep respitory safety in mind too guys, it's important.









And this is where I am at now. Tomorrow I am going to have to come up with something because the recipient of this jewellery box doesn't want a ring holder in it so I have to come up with something else for that space. Either way, this project is coming along nicely and tomorrow I will continue and see where we end up. Thanks for looking in guys.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I love it... and that safety photo sortta reminds me of something..... Didn't I see you in a Marvel Comic some where? :laughing:

Ken you are "Da Man!"


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## cody.sheridan-2008 (May 23, 2010)

johnnie52 said:


> I love it... and that safety photo sortta reminds me of something..... Didn't I see you in a Marvel Comic some where? :laughing:
> 
> Ken you are "Da Man!"


too right johnnie52 he certainly is "da man"!

thanks ken :yes: I am almost thinking of having a go at making the machinist chest or something similar-ish... don't know though...


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

It's coming along quite beautifully.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words guys. 

Today started off with a dig through the scraps to find some useable maple for the "ring holder". Like I said in yesterday's post, the recipient of this jewellery box (Mrs Kenbo) doesn't want the ring holder because the only 2 rings she has is her engagement ring and her wedding band. She's happy with only having those 2, so who am I to ruin her happiness by purchasing unwanted rings. :shifty: So, a little modification was in order.
I picked out these pieces of maple and walnut and set up the ripping blade in my table saw.









I checked the blade to ensure that it was square to the table and ripped the stock to the required widths.









I then installed my fine cross cutting blade, squared it to the table and squared off one end of each board. I then cut each board to its required length.









I then set my miter fence to 45 degrees and set my stop so that after cutting the 45's, there would be 3/8" of material left at the base of each upright.









I then installed my ripping blade and set it to 45 degrees from the table. I cut the chamfers needed in the top shelf and the lower trim.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

After dry fitting the pieces, this is what I ended up with. I looked at it and decided that it just wasn't right, symetrically. It didn't fit in with my contrasting woods. There was too much maple.









It is for this reason, that I got out some scrap walnut, and repeated the previous process to replace the maple pieces in walnut. This is what I ended up with.









I was much happier with this look, so I continued and cut a door, from 1/2" stock to cover the little cubby hole that would normally be under the ring holder. I then sanded all of the pieces to a grit of 220 and glued them in place. I will be putting matching hardware on the drawers and this door.









This was as far as I got today. I was a little pressed for time, and I also had to leave time for clean up and posting. I will continue some more tomorrow.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

So rather than a ring holder, you are planning a "hidden" compartment inside the slanted area? Good idea...


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

That's a nice use of that space. And as a plus you avoid the finicky work with the ring holder :yes:.
Will there be hinges on that door?


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks guys. I thought about hinges, but the more that I thought about it, the more I didn't want them. I'm still in the debating process. I wasn't going to put anything in that space and then decided that it might make a nice cubby to place some more smaller items. Kind of like an extra drawer. I showed Mrs Kenbo last night and she was happy with it. With the ring holder, it does seem to be a waste of space. I'm kind of wondering if (for those who are making the ring holder) some sort of handle could be attached to the ring holder to allow the holder itself to be removed. The handle could even be a fake ring of some kind. That way, the space behind could still be utilized. Just a thought.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Kenbo said:


> I'm kind of wondering if (for those who are making the ring holder) some sort of handle could be attached to the ring holder to allow the holder itself to be removed. The handle could even be a fake ring of some kind. That way, the space behind could still be utilized. Just a thought.


Nice idea. I may borrow it! :smile:


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Kenbo said:


> I'm kind of wondering if (for those who are making the ring holder) some sort of handle could be attached to the ring holder to allow the holder itself to be removed. The handle could even be a fake ring of some kind. That way, the space behind could still be utilized. Just a thought.


That's exactly what I was thinking after you started building the compartment. Why not have both? That way, someday your wife could pass the box down to a daughter or a niece or whatever. And it's certainly a better use of the space than just an empty compartment hidden by the ring holder.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks for the input on the ring holder guys. I'm still in the debating stage so you'll have to stay tuned to see what the decision is going to be.
Today's progress with slim to say the least. But I'd rather have an hour in the shop and have a little progress than have no time in the shop at all. The top surface and the lower surface of this jewellery box calls for measurements of 10X8 (approximately). Unfortunately for me, my wood supplier doesn't have walnut in these sizes. The widest 8/4 board that I can get is about 7". It if for that reason that I decided to laminate 2, 5" pieces together and try for another bookmatched piece. If you remember from earlier, I tried for a bookmatched maple front, but the grain was nothing special and the results weren't that great. So, here we go again.
I pulled down a chunk of 8/4 walnut from the rack and hacked off the length I need on the miter saw. I then headed over to the jointer, checked the fence for squareness to the table and surface jointed the stock. I checked the stock for flatness and then edge jointed it as well.









Once the edge jointing was done, I checked the jointed surfaces to make sure that they were 90 degrees to each other. Everything looks okay.









I installed my ripping blade in the table saw and checked that it was square to the table. From there, I ripped the 8/4 stock into 1/2 of the final width that I need. For the top and bottom, I need a total of 10", so in this case, I ripped the stock into a 5" width.









I then headed over to the bandsaw, and resawed the stock to double the thickness that I needed, plus a little extra for thickness planing and blade kerf. My final thickness needed is 1/2", so for this piece, I cut it to a thickness of 1 3/16". I then took it over to the thickness planer and planed it until the lines from the bandsaw were gone. This left me with a final thickness of 1 1/8".









Back to the bandsaw, I set my resaw fence to cut our 1 1/8" piece exactly in half. I was a little off on this one, but hopefully, in the final milling, that wont be noticeable.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I flipped the pieces open (like a book) to see what kind of grain I was looking at. These results are a lot better than what I got with that maple.









I then set up my bar clamps and applied glue to the edges of both pieces.









I clamped the panels in the bar clamps, and using the same procedure as outlined earlier, I cleaned up the squeeze out. This picture is before the squeeze out clean up. (obviously)









It's now a waiting game. I want this panel to dry over night so that I can finish it and cut it to final size. I don't mind waiting. It will give me some time with Mrs Kenbo and the kids tonight. I hope they remember who I am. :laughing: They haven't seen me much lately.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

So far so good. Looks like the book end cuts are going to look nicer this time around.

I see the clamps on the ends to keep the panels straight. are those just clamped to the pipes or is there a cawl under the piece?


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I went with just clamping them to the pipes again this time Johnnie. If there were more than 2 boards, I would have used cauls for sure but for this little joint, the four quick grips serve me just fine.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

You shame me, Ken. I didn't get anything done on my project after my last post in my thread... hopefully tomorrow.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words guys. Don't worry about not working on your project Frank; you'll get to it when you have the time. I can wait. It'll be worth it for certain.

After putting in an 8 hour day today, I headed out to the shop. I found myself thinking about that darned book matched walnut all day and wondering if it was going to be okay or not. I got out to the shop, unclamped the board, set up my planer and planed it down to the 1/2" thickness that I needed. You have to be careful not to remove too much material on the book matched side, otherwise you run the risk of losing your book match.









I think that I'm pretty happy with the look of this piece.









I installed my fine cross cut blade and squared it to the table. Using my miter gauge, I cut the pieces for the top and bottom of the jewellery box. I also cut the pieces needed for the feet. You might notice the face shield being used in this photo. Yesterday, as I was ripping some stock, a piece somehow broke off of my board that I was ripping. There must have been an internal crack that I didn't see. Either way, this 7" long piece flew out of the table saw while I was in the middle of a cut, and smacked my squarely in the nose. I had the sense to keep my hands where they were when it hit me, and once I got over the initial shock of it, I finished my cut and shut down the saw. No blood, nothing broken, but my nose was numb and sore for about an hour. It is for that reason that I instilled the new policy of "no face shield, no table saw".









A simple dry fit showed me how my project was coming together.









I installed a 3/8" cove bit in my router table, and routed a cove on the front and both sides of the top and bottom panels from earlier. Keep in mind, that the top cove gets routed on the under side of the panel and the bottom cove gets routed on the top of the panel.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Another quick dry fit, shows me how I'm looking. I'm pretty happy with the fit and the book match looks good.









I installed a 1/4" cove bit in my router table and prepared to rout the cove on the bottom, inside corners of the legs. I'm not a fan of routing small pieces on the router table. I think that it is a dangerous process. However, by clamping the small piece in a screw clamp, it makes for a much safer procedure. I don't mind chewing up a clamp, I do mind chewing up my hand.









You should be looking at something that looks like this.









I then installed a 45 degree chamfer bit in the router table and using the same procedure as before, I routed a chamfer in the front and side tops of the front legs, and the side tops of the rear legs. And yet another dry fit, shows that things are going well.









It was now time to rout the cove in the door. I installed a 3/8" cove bit in the router table and set up stop blocks to rout a cove that was 2 1/8" long and started 7 1/2" from the bottom of the door. Notice the c clamps for holding the stop blocks. I prefer the c clamps because they hold the blocks much more securely. The last thing that you want if for your stop blocks to move on you.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Here, we can see the cove routed and ready for some final sanding.









I decided that I would like to have a little more stability when securing my base to the box. It is for this reason that I carefully marked out some holes in the base and drilled counter sunk holes to enable me to screw the base to the box with some #6X3/4" screws. I also used glue, but the screws will help when clamping as well.









With the bottom of the jewellery box glued and screwed to the case, I started glueing and clamping the feet in place.









The feet are a little tricky to line up, without them sliding around. I let the glue tack up a little before I clamped them down. This helped a bit with the allignment.










I then alligned the top of the jewellery box, glued it in place and clamped it up for the night. Be sure to clean up any squeeze out. You don't want the glue to effect your finish once this piece is done.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

The last thing that I got done tonight, was to drill the holes in the drawers for the hardward. Nothing spectacular going on here. Just marked the center, punched it with an awl, and drilled the hole with a brad point bit.









Well, that was all that I got done for today guys. Tomorrow is another day.
Thanks for checking in. I hope you are enjoying the build.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Looking very nice. As always, a very professional job. :thumbsup:

As far as routing small parts goes, its not one of my favorite things either. I often use a clamp as you have for small stuff along with a temporary hardboard table top with a ZCI for whatever bit I'm using.

Didn't anyone ever tell you that you're not supposed to stand in a direct line with the blade on a table saw? You're lucky that whatever it was didn't take out an eye...


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

johnnie52 said:


> Didn't anyone ever tell you that you're not supposed to stand in a direct line with the blade on a table saw? You're lucky that whatever it was didn't take out an eye...


 
:laughing: For starters, I was wearing eye protection. Secondly, I was off to the side. As best I can tell, the piece broke away, shot back and possibly richocheted off of the feather board. It could have been a lot worse for sure. I alway wear eye protection when using my tools, I've just stepped it up a notch. Before I would only wear the shield for the lathe work. Now, I'm wearing it for any high rpm tool that has any potential to toss something. :thumbsup:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Another day at work, and another hour spent in the shop after work. I started off by unclamping the jewellery box from the bar clamps and then positioned the door on the jewellery box and clamped it down.









Using a square, I carefully marked out the positions of the hinges on the side of the box and lid.









I then unclamped the box and lid, and transferred my marks to the edge of both pieces using a saddle square.









I used my marking knife to score the wood to prevent splintering when cutting the mortises for the hinges.









I used my hand held router with a 1/4" straight bit installed and cut out the majority of the material for the mortise.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

I then used a 1/4" sharp chisel and finished off each mortise for the hinges.









After the hinges were installed, I used a 1/4" forstner bit and drilled the holes for the rare earth magnets that I will use to hold the door shut.









I gave the entire jewellery box another quick sanding and gave the entire thing a coat of tung oil.


























I will be starting on the finishing touches tomorrow and hopefully, I will have a finished product to post soon. Thanks for looking in.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Now who's showing off? A saddle square.... did you empty the store when you outfitted your shop?

As always though beautiful work and a great read.


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## Taylormade (Feb 3, 2011)

johnnie52 said:


> Now who's showing off? A saddle square.... did you empty the store when you outfitted your shop?


Yeah, Ken, I just had to google that. Ha. The jewelry box is looking beautiful. Looking forward to seeing this thing done.


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

ha ha h ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. You guys kill me. I have a running list of little things that I would like for my shop and on birthdays and Christmas, I usually get some of the little items. I love these saddle squares. I actually have 3 of them. The small one pictured above, one designed for use with 2X4's and one that is used for 45's. There are also dovetail saddle squares. Either way, you guys should start a wish list. :thumbsup:


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## Kenbo (Sep 16, 2008)

Today, marks a sad day in this challenge for me. It marks the day that I finished my 4th, and final challenge project. I've been having a hard time getting some good photos of this jewelry box and these are the best that i could get tonight. Believe me, they don't do the piece justice. The grains are very prominent in this piece and my wife is very happy with it. I couldn't justify using the hooks that the plans called for. I felt that they cheapened an otherwise classy looking project. I did a little searching on the internet and found the brass hangers that you see here. They are actually key box hook strips and at $1.60 each, they fit this project perfectly. I think that they are much nicer than just the plain hooks.
I had a bunch of the red felt from my tool chest left, so I used it to line the drawers and the backboards for this project. Again, my wife is very happy with it.









































Tools used:
tilt box digital angle gauge
tape measure
jointer planer
various squares
12" straight edge
band saw
thickness planer
digital calipers
table saw
miter fence for table saw
set up blocks
dado blade set
clamps
cordless drill
putty knife
various electric sanders
router table
hand screw clamp
drill press
various drill and router bits
screwdriver
saddle square
marking knife
chisel
hand held router
1/4" forstner bit



I would like to take this opportunity to send a big "thank you" out to everyone who commented and followed along with all of my alternative methods threads. This was a fantastic experience and I had a lot of fun with each project. I learned a few new techniques and tried a couple of new joints. I also have 4 new projects that I am very proud of. All of your comments are extremely humbling. It is always a great feeling when someone that you admire and respect pays you a compliment and I have admiration and respect for each and every one of you. It is talented individuals like yourselves that I strive to mimic and one day, I hope to be of the same calibur of woodworking that all of you display on a regular basis. A big thank you goes out to Longknife who was kind enough to send me the plans for the jewelry box project. Another huge thanks goes out to Frank for allowing me to participate in this challenge and for "challenging" me to make all four projects. It showed me that with a little dedication and some self confidence, anything is possible; even finishing 4 projects in 36 days.
Again, I thank all of you for looking in on my builds. You have no idea how much it means to me.
You guys rock!! :thumbsup:


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Kenbo, what more can be said? Your work on each of these projects has been an inspiration to not only me, but I'm sure everyone who has followed along. Those "hooks" you found are perfect for the box. They really give it a special character that plain old "tea cup" hooks could never add.

Thank you for sharing your shop with us and letting us look over your shoulder as you worked.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

Kenbo, you are an amazingly talented woodworker. Everyone of your projects on this challenge are fantastic. You're writes were equally impressive. Great step by step details, all documented on pics. I've said it before, you would make a great teacher. Keep up the great work, you are an inspiration to us all. 

Oh, by the way, how about them Leafs? Off to a great start. See if they can keep it going.


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## Longknife (Oct 25, 2010)

This turned out absolutely beautiful! The woods looks great and the interior is fantastic. The colour of the felt matches the wood perfect and the hooks you found really give this piece a little extra.
Your work is a big inspiration, thanks for leading us on this tour.


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

Typically fantastic results, Kenbo. I can only hope my projects turn out half as well as yours have.


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