# How do you make this?



## medic0446 (Feb 21, 2012)

Hi everyone, 

I've been reading this forum for the last month or so and wanted to say thank you for all of the great information. 

I am in the process of remodeling our dining room, the first of six rooms. We can across this base cap and I am not sure how to make it. I can get close but it's very rough. Anyone have any tips?


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

It's two settings on the table saw.
You set the blade height and angle as needed, then run the top of the board through the sawblade.
First cut the bevel at 15° or so.
Once you've made all the bevel cuts, then reset the blade to 90° and cut the straight shoulder.

Hope this helps
Topm


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

There are several ways but you are working with a small piece of wood. You could use a panel raising router bit in a router table with a fence to limit the depth of cut and eliminate the tongue portion that normally would fit in the frame. You would need to make a support piece on the outfeed side of the bit so the work doesn't tip. A piece wide enough for two moldings could be used, then ripped for the smaller moldings. This would require a support piece ahead and along the router table for the opposite cut edge as well as for the outfeed. Since you will have to make incremental cuts to get to full depth, you will have to alter the support pieces as necessary. These can be glued to the router table with double sided tape or spray adhesive. A square piece with the corner knocked off to match the bevel should work fine, it will be a matter of making it the right size and put in the correct position as you progress. When handling small work pieces, a stock feeder is a great help. Feather boards are very helpful in keeping the work tight to the fence and table if you don't have a feeder.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...nel_router_bits1.html#25?_raised_panel_anchor

You could also rip the bevel on a table saw. You might want the fence on the "wrong" side of the blade, depending on whether your saw tips right or left. The piece would be cut standing on edge. Again, a piece wide enough for two pieces of molding may be easier to handle and a stock feeder or feather boards are also nice. A table saw cut will require more sanding.

The bevel could also be cut with a rabbet plane held on an angle, spur cutter at the shoulder and a fence for width of cut. Unless you have a panel raising plane.

That profile might be attractive to you looking close but in reality, it may not be noticeable. A more standard profile base cap molding would save a lot of work but you would be limited to available species. Bits to cut standard profiles are available.


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## MNsawyergp (Jan 31, 2012)

MLCSwoodworking.com has lots of router bits to choose from. They will have a profile that is like that one.


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## bentwood (Jan 26, 2012)

Anything close to that profile that can be cut on a table saw has sharp edges everywhere two angles meet which would be unatractive. Looks like a job for a router. I think you should tell use how many feet you need to make.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

The funny thing is, the caption on the picture says "cap was cut on the tablesaw"?????:blink:


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## medic0446 (Feb 21, 2012)

Thank you for the suggestions.


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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

bentwood said:


> Anything close to that profile that can be cut on a table saw has sharp edges everywhere two angles meet which would be unatractive. Looks like a job for a router. I think you should tell use how many feet you need to make.


You can easily "break" the edges a little with sand paper. Not hard to do.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The picture didn't show the details well enough to offer a suggestion on what to use and how to make it.










 







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## Chaincarver Steve (Jul 30, 2011)

cabinetman said:


> The picture didn't show the details well enough to offer a suggestion on what to use and how to make it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


But it shows plenty to figure it out. Actually, looking closer, it looks to me like the "cap", as they're calling it, is a separate, thinner, piece of stock beveled and glued onto the main stock.


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

you're right!!! look at the end grain....good eyes Steve.....:nerd:


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Chaincarver Steve said:


> But it shows plenty to figure it out. Actually, looking closer, it looks to me like the "cap", as they're calling it, is a separate, thinner, piece of stock beveled and glued onto the main stock.


On my screen it's not that clear. The "cap" can be a separate piece, and it's not uncommon to install the running lengths as two separate pieces...not glued together. The cap can act as a trim, like a base shoe does to the base board and the floor.








If the cap trim is machined as part of the base board, it could be done on the TS, by first cutting back the face of the cap , and then setting the angle for the face.










 







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## medic0446 (Feb 21, 2012)

Thanks to Tcleve. It was very easy to make.


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