# My first refinish (table/chairs)



## NewAtWood (Mar 17, 2011)

I've done a small bit of staining in the past, but I'm starting my first significant refinish project and have already learned a ton just by looking through old posts on this forum (thanks!!!). 

It's a 54" oak round with chairs. They are distressed, so after stripping I'm just planning a very light sand with 180 grit paper (don't want to sand out the distressing). Then I plan to use GF antique cherry oil based stain followed by GF gel coat wipe-on urethane (although it seems like many people seem to like GF Arm-R-Seal).

Questions...

1. This is probably a really stupid question, but....having never done a chair before, how do you go about it logistically speaking? Do you leave the chair upright and apply a coat of wipe-on poly over the entire chair at once, do you lay it on its side and apply poly over two sides at once, do you start at the top and work your way down, start on the bottom and work your way up, etc. Is there a preferred or recommended method, or does it really not matter at all?

2. Is a satin finish too flat for a table, especially with the distressed look? Would I be better off with a semi-gloss, or is it all just a matter of personal preference? 

Thanks in advance for any insight anybody has to offer.


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## TGRANT (Jan 25, 2011)

There are no right or wrong answers to your questions. I finish chairs by putting them upright on the floor and doing the top parts, then putting them on the bench and doing the bottom parts, all in one session. The underside of the chair gets done in the first session or after the first session is dry depending on how much I want to work upside down. Drips are less of an issue with the wipe on stains but you still need to be careful.

As for matt vs gloss finishes, personal preference rules. I prefer gloss finishes for table tops because I think they are easier to clean, but someone will disagree with me and they are also correct. Try some test pieces and see what looks good to you. That’s the beauty of art!


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

TGRANT said:


> There are no right or wrong answers to your questions. I finish chairs by putting them upright on the floor and doing the top parts, then putting them on the bench and doing the bottom parts, all in one session. The underside of the chair gets done in the first session or after the first session is dry depending on how much I want to work upside down. Drips are less of an issue with the wipe on stains but you still need to be careful.
> 
> As for matt vs gloss finishes, personal preference rules. I prefer gloss finishes for table tops because I think they are easier to clean, but someone will disagree with me and they are also correct. Try some test pieces and see what looks good to you. That’s the beauty of art!


+1
i do the same for staining, but for finish i spray everything so it gets done all at the same time. i place the chair so that all the angles cant be hit.

i prefure a satin finish, or natural hand rubbed look. imo you see more of the wood that way.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

NewAtWood said:


> .... They are distressed, after stripping ...a very light sand with 180 grit paper ..Then I plan to use ... oil based stain followed by.. gel coat wipe-on urethane
> Questions...
> 
> 1. how do you go about it logistically speaking?
> ...


If you want a satin finish - typically, most refinishers always build their coats with high gloss and use satin for the last coat. This keeps the grain nice and clear and the final coat of satin will knock off the sheen. If you use satin finish the whole trip, the finsh tends to look lifeless. 

To answer your question #2 directly, the sheen you want is a matter of preference. But the above still holds true - the thing about high gloos first, then the semi-gloss. 

Have fun

Tony B


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

interesting concept, i never use semi gloss for first coats. i find you dont get a true satin with that method, it comes out just a tad shinnier.
i prefure the duller side of satin, though has nothing to do with hiding imperfections.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Jack, I think you read it too quickly. I said to use gloss for the first coats not semi-gloss. 
What I meant was to use gloss for the first few coats and the semi-gloss for the final coat if semi-gloss is what you want. My main point was that I was taught that you always start with the very clear coats (no stearated or mica in solution) for your build up coats and only knock down the sheen on the last coat. 
I'm sure neither way is better, it's all a matter of what you want it to look like.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tony B said:


> Jack, I think you read it too quickly. I said to use gloss for the first coats not semi-gloss.
> What I meant was to use gloss for the first few coats and the semi-gloss for the final coat if semi-gloss is what you want. My main point was that I was taught that you always start with the very clear coats (no stearated or mica in solution) for your build up coats and only knock down the sheen on the last coat.
> I'm sure neither way is better, it's all a matter of what you want it to look like.


+1.












 







.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

the dif between gloss and semi gloss is not gonna make much dif. as far as stearats or mica/ flatning agents. if ones intent is a satin sheen, use satin. a gloss under a satin will effect a satin sheen. most refinishers dont use a gloss under satin. at least none that i know of. even so thers nothing technicaly wrong with putting gloss or sg under a satin, theres just no need to do so. the clarity will not be noticable to 99.9% fo people.

i use satin an all coats and my work is far from lifeless.


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