# Jet jtas-10, good buy or not?



## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

Hello all
I have been looking for a good saw for a while and found this jet jtas-10 saw with the 50" xacta fence and extension table, right tilt, NO riving knife, has had a router life built in but the lift is gone and only the hole is left, it also has a good size swing arm type sliding table. The saw has been used in a cabinet shop in production so I know it's been used a lot probably. The guy asks $975 and I'm hoping to bring it down a bit. What do you think. Ok buy ?! I'm sure I have to spend some money on a lift gate truck rental and/or a labor from Home Depot ( since I don't know many able bodied people around this town here) to move the saw, so that will add to the cost too ( maybe another $100). I attached a pic of what this saw kinda looks like but not the real saw. 

Thank you all in advance


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

Tony-nubee said:


> ....... The saw has been used in a cabinet shop in production so I know it's been used a lot probably........


pass. too many negatives. production usage, no riving knife, right tilt. 3 strikes and........ just my$.02.


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## Matt tennessen (Jan 23, 2011)

I actually think right tilt would be fine with that sliding table. But I associate that feature more with sheet-good cutting (which makes sense in a production environment). Is this something you're looking for? This saw has a pretty large footprint. It's worth checking out, in my opinion. Just because it's been used doesn't necessarily mean it's been abused. You can find 2-3hp cabinet saws on Craigslist for a less but probably not with that slider.


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

Sounds like a good price with the sliding table. I had that saw w/o the slider and liked it. Still have the lift which is great.


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

Actually, I don't really need a slider of that size. I would like to built cabinets so I will probably break some sheets but I don't know if I really need that size as its my hobby only and will be setup in my garage. I had thought about selling the slider and buy the left wing extension instead since this doesn't have the steel wing in the left. The problem is that I have been looking in Craigslist for a few month now and don't seem to find the good deals (im in seattle) in my area that you guys might find in your neck of the woods. The cheapest I've seen this saw around here is 1400 without the slider. And the cheapest very old but slightly decent unisaw has been over 1200. There are couple of PM66 but they are 1500 and 1700 and out of production shop also. By the way thanks for all of your replies. It's hard for me to make the decision cause there is always a better saw for another $200 more


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

I wish it had the router lift and that would have made it a much easier decision. I wonder howmuch that lift cost. It would be good I think to get the same lift since the table has already has the cutout for it.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

You could always sell the slider and buy a lift with the proceeds. On the other hand, I've never owned a lift, and don't feel like I'm missing anything. 

My biggest concern would be the heavy use, but the price seems pretty good considering the cost of the sliding table. It'd be worth a look if it's not too far.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I bought the same saw, for $150 from a 1 person cabinet shop. It had a bad motor. Bearing spun, and wore down the shaft about .030. He said a new motor from Jet was over $500. I guess he liked the saw. He bought another one. I ended up selling it as is.
If I bought one for myself, I think I would take the motor apart and put in some good bearings.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

*CAUTION

*If it was used in a commercial environment, it may require three phase electricity.


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

Yes, I checked and a new motor is right around $500. Now if I was to change the motor the saw would be as good as new right? What Elat should I check for. I'll be going to look at it today. 
I actually found a 5hp sawstop too which is priced at $2500 which is kinda more than what I want to spend but it's tempting. I shall see if he can come down on price at all.


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

It's actually single phase (the jet) so that part is ok.


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

I only thought about getting the router lift since there is a hole on the table were the jet lift used to be.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Tony-nubee said:


> Yes, I checked and a new motor is right around $500. Now if I was to change the motor the saw would be as good as new right? What Elat should I check for. I'll be going to look at it today.
> I actually found a 5hp sawstop too which is priced at $2500 which is kinda more than what I want to spend but it's tempting. I shall see if he can come down on price at all.


A new motor that's not sourced from Jet should be less than $500, and it shouldn't be hard to get at least the same quality or better.....Marathon, Dayton, GE, Baldor , Leeson, WEG, Grizzly, Grainger, etc.

You may also want to check the bearings on the arbor, and clean the gears up thoroughly.


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

But I thought other motors don't fit in the jet saw. I would love to put in a Baldor if it needs a new motor but need to find out how to fit one in there. Also I wanted to know what things to check to make sure it's in good working shape. Someone mentioned the bearings. How should I check the bearings. Is it the arbor bearing I should check and how to check it. I have looked at the saw once and put a $50 deposit so he holds it for me. The saw turns on and sound how it should sound we no extra noises. There are some blemishes on the paint which I don't care about much. The motor cover is missing so is the splitter and blade guard but i was thinking about adding a riving knife and maybe one of those dust collectors on top which act as the blade cover/guard as well. The fence looks like the exacta (label has been taken off) but the left side plastic plate has been cut a bit by blade and needs replacement. Also the fence doesn’t slide as easily. I have to grab both ends of the fence for it to move parallel or it moves a bit diagonally and needs to be straightened before locking. There might be something missing!?!? The dust port has been changed to the 6” galvanized type. So I know I need to set this saw up all over specially after it being moved around like this and since it has worked a lot probably in the cabinet shop it belonged to I need to find out what to check, clean, and change to bring it to perfect shape.


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

Ok. I bought the saw and now need to put it through rehab. I know the fence is not xacta II cause it looks a bit different. I'll attach a pic and appreciate if some one tell me which jet fence it is and how good they are as I havnt had a chance to play with it yet. The left pad is in bad shape as seen in pic and since it costs over a $100 to replace I want to know if the fence is worth that much or I'm better of with a new fence?! Also what are the clamps on top of the fence used for? Thanks for the help!


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

*Also this*

This too


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

*A*

And the clamps


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## Matt tennessen (Jan 23, 2011)

Congrats on the saw. As for your questions, that fence looks similar to the xacta. Even if it's not, a t-square style like that is preferable. You can probably replace the uhmw face for $50 or so, but if the other side is good, just swap the faces. Or use something else like hardwood, plywood, etc. As for the clamps, they probably worked in conjunction with something they used at the shop? You can remove that entire piece of wood running along the top anyway. Good luck!


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Those mounts on the fence are for Board Buddy feed rollers.
I have the same xacta fence on my old Unisaur. Great fence!
You can just replace the pads with almost anything. I used some polyethelene for mine. I've heard of people using laminate.

Depending on how tight you have it adjusted, determines how much out of square it moves, when sliding it. When you set it close to where you want it, tighten the cam handle, and release it just enough to be able to tap the fence to where you need it. The fence should stay where it is, when you lock it down. It takes more time to explain it, than do it!

I added a t track to the top of mine to for easy accessory attachment, as shown in picture.
I also replaced the curser, with a Biesemeyer one, as it was easier to see.
I recently read of someone replacing the Biesemeyer one, with a Saw Stop. Said it was better.

If it was in a mass production shop, I would replace the motor bearings and check the arbor bearings. If it came from a small custom cabinet shop, I would at least remove the belts and see if motor and arbor bearings are smooth turning.

Good luck with it


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Sorry for the double post.


Those mounts on the fence are for Board Buddy feed rollers.
I have the same xacta fence on my old Unisaur. Great fence!
You can just replace the pads with almost anything. I used some polyethelene for mine. I've heard of people using laminate.

Depending on how tight you have it adjusted, determines how much out of square it moves, when sliding it. When you set it close to where you want it, tighten the can handle, and release it just enough to be able to tap the fence to where you need it. The fence should stay where it is, when you lock it down. It takes more time to explain it, than do it!

I added a t tract to the top of mine to for easy accessory attachment, as shown in picture.
I also replaced the curser, with a Biesemeyer one, as it was easier to see.
I recently read of someone replacing the Biesemeyer one, with a Saw Stop. Said it was better.

If it was in a mass production shop, I would replace the motor bearings and check the arbor bearings. If it came from a small custom cabinet shop, I would at least remove the belts and see if motor and arbor bearings are smooth turning.

Good luck with it


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## Tony-nubee (Nov 3, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. To replace the motor bearings I have to get inside the motor right? I've never done this so I have to find some instruction on how to replace the motor and arbor bearings. I also need to buy a motor cover for it, fix the extention table top, and add adjustable legs to it. Good idea on the fence by the way. I might do something like that. 
Thank you both very much!


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## kirankhadka (Feb 2, 2016)

Hi,
I purchased the same saw and had to replace motor. Your old motor should have adapter plate to attach to motor, mine did if so, here are the motor that works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301294257796?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

Or grizzly also sells them.

The mounting hold does not match exactly, but I drilled the holes by marking with putting the adapter, I had to drill three holes in about 30-40 minutes. Make sure you match the pulley position with the old one, so the belt align exactly. You may pull pulley out of shaft a little, but you can't push in, in motor. So make sure of that.
If you can work with here is a person who may provide motor for cheap.
http://www.accuramachinetools.com/
His name is Fred.
Good luck, I am very happy with my saw i refurbished for about $400 and couple hours. Ample of power, mine was JTAS10-1 right tilt, 3 hp motor.


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