# ordered my new Delta t2 fence tonight



## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

this is for my old craftsman ts and cant wait to have a new fence that works right
is it gonna be a pain to install?


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## Mandres (Sep 6, 2011)

Nice, I've been reading about these too and I'm real tempted to pick one up. Let us know how it works out for you. 

From what I've read they are a hassle to install on non-Delta saws. The bolt holes in the fence rails don't line up with the ones in your saw table, so you have to drill new ones. Some people drill the steel rails, others drill the cast iron tabletops. If you measure and mark carefully it shouldn't be too much trouble.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Alot of folks are doing just that, so it can't be too bad. Here's a link that shows one guy's install. And another.

Pics of other T2's:


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## snipit73 (Mar 29, 2011)

Easy Peasy If I remember correctly I was able to use 2 existing holes on the front and rear rails and redrill 2. I didn't even have to move the stick on tape measure! This is on a Ridgid 4511


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

hey thanks guys im supposed to have it next tuesday so i hope to report back sometime late week


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## thegrgyle (Jan 11, 2011)

I didn't realize this was available out there.... In fact one of the links provided by the second poster has a pic of my table saw with the new aftermarket fence..... Hmmmmmmm Now you got me thinking..... 

thanks

Fabian


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I put one on my old craftsman 10" flex drive. I only needed two screws on the front and two more in the rear. The hardest part was actually getting the counter sinks drilled. Take your time and be sure you have everything laid out correctly and it will make you think you bought a new saw! The biggest thing is to make sure that your table has at least 1 1/2" depth at the front and rear from the top of the table to the bottom of the edge. Some older craftsman saws are narrower and the fence rails will not go on without a lot of modifications.










Two things I notice with mine, the lock handle does not stay up so sometimes I find myself having to hold it in the up (released) position to make adjustments to the cutting width. Also, it tends to not stay square when you move it. Just be aware of the fact and pull the front sliding section against the rail and recheck your width before making a cut and you'll be fine.

Good luck, I know you'll love it.


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

johnnie52 said:


> Also, it tends to not stay square when you move it. Just be aware of the fact and pull the front sliding section against the rail and recheck your width before making a cut and you'll be fine.
> 
> Good luck, I know you'll love it.


I found on my Exacta (Biesemeyer clone) fence, when I move the fence a little, if I put the handle down, but not push it to lock it down, when I slide the fence, it stays square. Push or tap, near the t square part.

Good luck with it. After playing with one at Lowes, I'm sure it will make a world of difference on your saw. When I put the Exacta on my Unisaur, I couldn't believe the difference. Haven't used a tape to check the cut size in years!


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

johnnie52 said:


> ...Two things I notice with mine, the lock handle does not stay up so sometimes I find myself having to hold it in the up (released) position to make adjustments to the cutting width. Also, it tends to not stay square when you move it. ...


You should be able to add a small magnet to the end of the fence tube to hold the handle up....the right size rubber grommet works too. There are adjustment screws for the amount slop between the fence "T" and the rail...the same ones used to adjust for square. There's a fine line between being too loose and too tight, but if you add some wax to the top of the rail and get that adjustment "just right", it should take up some of the slop and stay a bit more square when it travels. Don't wax the sides of the rail or the clamp may not hold as well.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

ups has my fence 20 mile from me but i wont get it till tuesday because of the holiday:thumbdown:


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## Eagleeye (Dec 3, 2011)

Good info. I may go by Lowes this morning. I could not see spending the $ for a Beismeyer but this one I might can afford. I will have to see if I can make it fit the old Walker Turner TS. Then convince the wife of the "need". 

Lets see... for the children?, safety?, I'll think of something.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Eagleeye said:


> Good info. I may go by Lowes this morning. I could not see spending the $ for a Beismeyer but this one I might can afford. I will have to see if I can make it fit the old Walker Turner TS. Then convince the wife of the "need".
> 
> Lets see... for the children?, safety?, I'll think of something.


Safety for sure...precision and resale value are also legit factors with a new fence. The T2 is a bonafide bargain for $150 IMO, and is a better choice than other $150 options I can think of.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

Just what exactly is the difference between the Beismeyer and the T2? They're both made by the same company (Delta). They both operate on the same principal (T-square cam lock). The two I looked at on Amazon are the same size (30 inch). Yet the Beisemeyer is well over twice the cost! What am I missing?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

JohnK007 said:


> Just what exactly is the difference between the Beismeyer and the T2? They're both made by the same company (Delta). They both operate on the same principal (T-square cam lock). The two I looked at on Amazon are the same size (30 inch). Yet the Beisemeyer is well over twice the cost! What am I missing?


Similar designs, heavier duty approach to the Biesemeyer....steel is thicker, tubing is larger, made in the USA vs imported, etc.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

knotscott said:


> Similar designs, heavier duty approach to the Biesemeyer....steel is thicker, tubing is larger, made in the USA vs imported, etc.



10-4, thanks. So being the cheap SOB that I am, there's no real reason not to use the T2 to replace the Jetlock fence on my Unisaw? What I mean is I see the T2 going on contractor and hybrid style saws but not necessarily on cabinet saws. It would work/fit on a Unisaw wouldn't it?


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

I don't see why you can't use a T2 on a Unisaw. IMHO the T2 is price appropriate for a contractor saw or hybrid, which is why I suspect you see so many on those saws, but it'll work just as well on a Uni...might even be a direct fit, but I don't know.


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## N Heat (Jan 1, 2012)

I got one for Christmas for my Craftsman 113.298151. The saw has got one stamped wing to the left, and no wing to the right. I went the route of using 1 existing hole for the front rail, and drilling one additional hole in the saw top for the front rail. It puts the top of the front rail approx. 5/8" below the front edge of the table. The fence sits a little less that 1/8" above the table. I did have to move the tape over about an inch, but that's no big deal. It took me less than an hour to install this way. And, as most owners say, it turns the Craftsman contractor saw into a pretty accurate machine. 

I pretty much followed this plan... http://brandoncroft.com/2011/05/10/upgrading-craftsman-table-saw/


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## Mandres (Sep 6, 2011)

Does anyone know if Lowes is currently carrying these? I don't see them on the website and the store is about 40 mins. from me.


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

Mandres said:


> Does anyone know if Lowes is currently carrying these? I don't see them on the website and the store is about 40 mins. from me.


I haven't seen the T2 at Lowes since they stopped carrying the Delta 36-980 contractor saw. It's possible they could order one, but it'll be tough to beat < $155 shipped from Tools-plus.com


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

i finally got my fence last night and hope to install it tonight
wish me luck


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

Just take your time and measure everything 5 times before drilling any holes. :icon_smile: I won't wish you luck, I will wish you accurate measurements. :laughing:


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## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Maybe this fence will take care of the hate I have for the fence system on my r4512 TS.


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## robert421960 (Dec 9, 2010)

You all were right Easy Peasy
took about 1 hr and even got it adjusted perfect i think
smooth as can be
this is the first time in yrs i can cut a board without it binding on me
very nice and very impressed


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I love a happy ending! Looks awesome and I bet it makes a heck of a difference for you. Congrats!


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Isn't it a great feeling to set that fence to 3" and have the stock come out to exactly 3"! My last two saws finally had good fences and it's been so nice to not have to get out the tape measure before making a cut.

Bill


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

For you folks upgrading to a T2, or Biesemeyer style fence, here is an idea. On my Exacta fence on my Unisaur, I mounted a t track on a piece of wood, on top of the fence. It hakes mounting featherboards, stop blocks, feed rollers, etc, a snap. 

The track holds pencils great. I left a space at the end of the fence top, for a place to put my tape measure.
Enjoy your new fences. It was the best tool improvement, I have made to any of my tools.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

For those of you who have installed the Delta T2 Fence onto an other Craftsman TS ... 
did you drill into the fence rail itself or into the cast iron table top side(s)?

Either way, did you use a hand held drill or a drill press for this - and what kind of bit(s) did you use?


Thanks !!!


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## Parkerdog (Aug 15, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> For those of you who have installed the Delta T2 Fence onto an other Craftsman TS ...
> did you drill into the fence rail itself or into the cast iron table top side(s)?
> 
> Either way, did you use a hand held drill or a drill press for this - and what kind of bit(s) did you use?
> ...


I didn't install a T2 but I installed a vega on a craftsman. I just used a center punch to dimple the cast iron then drilled a pilot hole then drilled my 3/8 hole. All with a hand drill. That was with bolts with a nut on the back side. I don't know if the T2 has to have threaded holes? 
Used a regular HSS metal bit. Cast iron drills surprisingly easy.


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

I choose to drill the rails on my T2 rather than the cast iron top. I did it at the drill press using a HSS bit and metal counter sink. Hind sight now tells me it would have been easier to drill the saw table using a drill motor with a 1/2" chuck.

The T2 comes with mounting flat head machine screws and nuts. There are no threads in the fence rails or the saw table.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

Thanks to/Because of this thread discussion and information - as well as Page 2 of this thread, 
I just now ordered my T2 Fence and Rail System from TooBarn.com. :icon_smile:

I have an older Craftsman 113 series belt-drive table-saw (CraigsList find) and the only remaining piece I've been waiting for is a decent fence system. I was contemplating going the DIY route with aluminum t-slot extrusions ... but even then, the parts would come out to between $250-$300. 

I haven't heard too much negative feedback on the T2 Fence system - and I was further encouraged by the insight provided above about using it with my Craftsman TS. :thumbsup:

I don't really purchase a whole lot for myself - having the family and all. But this was something I've been wanting for the better part of 2013 - and I thought I deserve a little something for myself once in a while, ya know?

Can't wait to receive it . . . anyone know how long "standard shipping" takes from Nebraska? 
(I'm in California)


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## Mandres (Sep 6, 2011)

I have the T2 on my Craftsman "zipcode" hybrid saw (made by Steel City I think?) It works well, but I should have done a better job with my measurements for the mounting. The rails ended up too high - there is about a 1/8" gap between the bottom of the fence and the top of the table. The little nylon adjustment screws also sit proud of the table top and slightly interfere with the feeding of stock. 

The solution will be to elongate the holes I drilled into slots, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.


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## Parkerdog (Aug 15, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> Thanks to/Because of this thread discussion and information - as well as Page 2 of this thread,
> I just now ordered my T2 Fence and Rail System from TooBarn.com. :icon_smile:
> 
> I have an older Craftsman 113 series belt-drive table-saw (CraigsList find) and the only remaining piece I've been waiting for is a decent fence system. I was contemplating going the DIY route with aluminum t-slot extrusions ... but even then, the parts would come out to between $250-$300.
> ...


 
What happened to this quote you left on one of my threads? lol

"In the alternative, why not *MAKE YOUR OWN ???"*

I'm glad to see you were able to get one from toolbarn though. Back when I was looking they said it would be in January sometime before they were available. Nice xmas gift for yourself. A usable fence makes an old saw like new. My problem I don't know when to quit!


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## Parkerdog (Aug 15, 2013)

Pirate said:


> For you folks upgrading to a T2, or Biesemeyer style fence, here is an idea. On my Exacta fence on my Unisaur, I mounted a t track on a piece of wood, on top of the fence. It hakes mounting featherboards, stop blocks, feed rollers, etc, a snap.
> 
> The track holds pencils great. I left a space at the end of the fence top, for a place to put my tape measure.
> Enjoy your new fences. It was the best tool improvement, I have made to any of my tools.


 
I like the looks of that idea, especially the featherboard. I had been looking at the magnetic ones but by the time you mount the metal plate etc. might as well mount something that has more uses. Plus I bought one of the magnet ones and found out it slides on my nice smooth polished top.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

Parkerdog said:


> What happened to this quote you left on one of my threads? lol
> 
> "In the alternative, why not *MAKE YOUR OWN ???"*


Yah well ... at the ToolBarn price, it was $80-$100 less than the parts for the DIY fence - and, of course, $150-$250 less than an (for all intents and purposes) equivalent Biesmeyer fence. I've heard a lot of good things about the T2 fence over the last 18 months or so .. and this deal just seemed too good to pass up at this time - especially considering that ToolBarn now only has 4 left in stock. (It was 6 yesterday). 

Plus I got the additional $10 discount code for signing up for the TB newsletter.

(Now I'm just wondering how long "standard shipping" takes from NE to CA)





Parkerdog said:


> A usable fence makes an old saw like new. My problem I don't know when to quit!


I'm hoping this will help me get the same feeling.


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## Parkerdog (Aug 15, 2013)

How old is your saw? Mine is an early 50's model and I have it tore down right now for bearings in the arbor, cleaning and lubing and I sent the motor out for new bearings. Should be good for another 60 years!:smile:
I'm betting you don't have the 1 degree temp last night that keeps me from the garage either. LOL


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

I'll have to check the exact model number when I get home, but it looks almost identical (including the wings) to this (sans the T2 fence until I receive it) . . .


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

Parkerdog said:


> I'm betting you don't have the 1 degree temp last night that keeps me from the garage either. LOL


Nope ... About 45 here in Orange County (So Calif) last night.
Still chilly for us spoiled beach-going Southern Californians. :whistling2:


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## Parkerdog (Aug 15, 2013)

45? uh oh there goes the price of lettuce. lol


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

45??? That's a heat wave. My truck read 1 this morning at 630.


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> For those of you who have installed the Delta T2 Fence onto an other Craftsman TS ...
> did you drill into the fence rail itself or into the cast iron table top side(s)?
> 
> Either way, did you use a hand held drill or a drill press for this - and what kind of bit(s) did you use?


No T2 here but I've drilled both the table and a new fence I upgraded. In both cases get a punch to dimple your starting point. Hand drill is fine, just run the drill speed slow. Start with a small'ish bit and work your way up.
When you get the new rail you'll see what your line-up options are with the rail holes and the existing table top holes. If you don't have a match, figure out where you can put it to make the least new holes and then decide if it's better in the rail or table. It'll be obvious.


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## woodtink (Apr 5, 2013)

Hey do you think I could install this fence on my bosch gravity rise 4100 saw?

Anyone install and after market fence on this saw?


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## cambriahouse (Feb 10, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> Can't wait to receive it . . . anyone know how long "standard shipping" takes from Nebraska?
> (I'm in California)


Well, I ordered mine on Monday (Dec 9th) and I just got the tracking info that says it's scheduled to be delivered this Friday (Dec 13th).

My location (Lockport, NY) is about the same distance from Nebraska as California, so I would guess it should take about the same amount of time (5 days from ordering).

Steve


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## johnnie52 (Feb 16, 2009)

rbk123 said:


> No T2 here but I've drilled both the table and a new fence I upgraded. In both cases get a punch to dimple your starting point. Hand drill is fine, just run the drill speed slow. Start with a small'ish bit and work your way up.
> When you get the new rail you'll see what your line-up options are with the rail holes and the existing table top holes. If you don't have a match, figure out where you can put it to make the least new holes and then decide if it's better in the rail or table. It'll be obvious.



I going to add to this that I used one of the holes supplied in the front and rear rails with one of the original holes in the table which left me with only one hole to drill in each rail. I drilled the rails because drilling my table would have put a hole exactly over the table webbing. My way also kept me from having to change the measuring tape. Your mileage may vary, so double check everything From the depth of the table (1-1/2" min) to hole locations, everything _MUST_ be in the right place or you will not be very pleased with the results.


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## CaptainMarvel (Nov 16, 2012)

cambriahouse said:


> Well, I ordered mine on Monday (Dec 9th) and I just got the tracking info that says it's scheduled to be delivered this Friday (Dec 13th).
> 
> My location (Lockport, NY) is about the same distance from Nebraska as California, so I would guess it should take about the same amount of time (5 days from ordering).
> 
> Steve


I ordered mine on Dec 10 and I just got my shipping notice that the est delivery date is Dec 17.

Awww man, I have to wait a whole week? :sad:

I mean, what has "standard shipping" become in this country of ours? 
It's a conspiracy I tell you !! :laughing: :tt2:


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## Parkerdog (Aug 15, 2013)

CaptainMarvel said:


> I ordered mine on Dec 10 and I just got my shipping notice that the est delivery date is Dec 17.
> 
> Awww man, I have to wait a whole week? :sad:
> 
> ...


 
You're lucky. Mine seems to travel faster from east to west than it does west to east. Then I have also ordered stuff that bounced between Chicago and St. Louis twice. And I live in the middle!:huh:


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