# Squaring round edge of store bought lumber with tablesaw



## saildawg (Jun 2, 2013)

Hello everyone,

I have moderate experience on my tablesaw (Ridgid r4510), but wanted to ask proper technique for removing rounded edge on store bought dimensional lumber. I have 2x4 left over from previous project (Farmhouse table) and now need a bunch of 2x2 for the matching bench. I would like to rip the 2x4 into two different 2x2 and remove the rounded edge. 

I usually make all my rip cuts with the microjig grr-ripper and feel very safe and in control. I can not figure out how to configure them for this task as I need to take a very minuscule amount off. I have other push blocks and push sticks. I also do not know safest way to configure the cut, i.e saw blade to the left of wood away from fence (pic 1) or so the cut is to the right between the rip fence (pic 2). I appreciate any advice and pointers, just want to be safe as a surgeon my hands are my lively hood. I also attached a pic of the farmhouse table I just completed. 
Thanks


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## hwebb99 (Nov 27, 2012)

There is more than one proper method to do this. My choice way would be to square the one edge using a jointer. Then use your table saw to rip the other side to your desired width.


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## Bleedinblue (Mar 4, 2014)

(I'll assume you don't have a jointer)

I am new to the Grrr-ripper myself, but it is quite obvious it is not to be an all inclusive push block. It is appropriate for some cuts and not for others. This isn't one of them.

I'm not really understanding the complication of this cut, as long as the 2x4's are straight. You definitely want to cut like your first picture, with the waste to the left. If the 2x4's are 8 footers, outfeed support is an absolute must and will give you much better control. A roller stand on the infeed side would help a lot too. Other than that, standard push sticks will do just fine and should allow you to make perfectly safe cuts.


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## MT Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I have done this a lot but not with that thing you speak of.
I rip the edge of all pieces, then turn the boards around, adjust the fence and run the other sides through.

You already know you ain't getting two 2x2's from that 2x4, right. 3 1/4, or even 3 inch x 1.5 would probably be what you are looking for so you wind up with 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch square. I haven't had any problems. Are you using a ripping blade, say 24 teeth, good and sharp?

See picture. I squared all the boards before cutting the half lap joints.


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## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

Yeah, Grrippers are not called for here. I'd do what MT suggested but recommend using a feather board to help keep the 2X4s against the fence. Going one step farther, I have "board buddies" that help push the wood against the table and also prevent kickback - I use them for long rips. Between a feather board and board buddies, I get pretty clean rips.















Yeah


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## saildawg (Jun 2, 2013)

Thanks for the input, I think it is probably too much to ask to get two 2x2 out of a 2x4 when adjusting for kerf etc. Might not be worth the trouble as I have to buy some 2x6 anyway and can use those scraps to make 2x2. I unfortunately do not have a jointer. I believe this pic is likely the best set up with the gripper, I will try it tomorrow. I have run it through with using a push stick without problems but would like to try this with the gripper as it usually feels more safe. I do have outfeed table and using a sharp new ripping blade. Thanks


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## hokeyplyr48 (Nov 12, 2013)

saildawg said:


> Thanks for the input, I think it is probably too much to ask to get two 2x2 out of a 2x4 when adjusting for kerf etc. Might not be worth the trouble as I have to buy some 2x6 anyway and can use those scraps to make 2x2. I unfortunately do not have a jointer. I believe this pic is likely the best set up with the gripper, I will try it tomorrow. I have run it through with using a push stick without problems but would like to try this with the gripper as it usually feels more safe. I do have outfeed table and using a sharp new ripping blade. Thanks



It's not the kerf that's the issue. A 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5. Go and measure your boards. The nominal size is 2x4 but not actually...just like 3/4" plywood isn't actually 3/4". It still drives me nuts


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*what you will need....*

A sharp blade, no more than 40 tooth, use an infeed roller and an outfeed roller or table. The splitter should be in the saw.... Make a mark on all the flat surfaces so you will know which side is "up".

Set the fence to remove about 1/4 from the width on the off fall side. Rip all the pieces you have at that setting. Now set the fence to 1 1/4" and rip all the pieces one more time, flip them and rip them all again to remove the rounded edge.

Use a push stick with sandpaper or other non-slip surface OR a hook on the end OR use another piece to push the previous piece all the way past the blade....just keep pushin' 'em through using that method.


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## saildawg (Jun 2, 2013)

hokeyplyr48 said:


> It's not the kerf that's the issue. A 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5. Go and measure your boards. The nominal size is 2x4 but not actually...just like 3/4" plywood isn't actually 3/4". It still drives me nuts


My thinking was 2x4 is 3.5" width and I need two 2x2 which are 1.5 " thick(thus 3 in thickness total). So I could remove up to 0.5 in material in making my cuts. Where is my logic wrong? I am sure it is but dont see why


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

saildawg said:


> My thinking was 2x4 is 3.5" width and I need two 2x2 which are 1.5 " thick(thus 3 in thickness total). So I could remove up to 0.5 in material in making my cuts. Where is my logic wrong? I am sure it is but dont see why


You are right as far as the dimensions go... however, the 2x4 typically have 1/4" radius roundovers on the edge so there goes your 1/2" by removing the round edges... now, you subtract the blade kerf.


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## saildawg (Jun 2, 2013)

Ok that makes sense, thanks


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## Al Launier (Jan 21, 2013)

In addition to using a coarse blade, i.e. 24 tooth, you should also consider using a splitter or riving knife to prevent the wood from binding on the blade.

If your 2x4 is really not that straight, you could use double back tape on top of the 2x4 with a good staright board stuck on the top of it. Before sticking the boards together "average out" the position of the straight board to minimize stock removal from the 2x4. Then place the straight edged board against the fence & rip the 2x4.


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## sanchez (Feb 18, 2010)

You should probably put the blade guard back on too.


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## saildawg (Jun 2, 2013)

sanchez said:


> You should probably put the blade guard back on too.


Of course, I only dont use the blade guard when using the grr-riper, always have a splitter as well.


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Blade guards and splitters. :laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## bauerbach (Mar 25, 2012)

I think I lost my blade guard some time back.... The riving knife sticks around though.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

It is really difficult to get two actual size 1 1/2" rough cut pieces from most stock 2X4's with only the 1/2" to spare using a table saw, even with a thin kerf blade. 
You can do it on a band saw and have enough excess to skim on the planer to a nice clean 1 1/2" if the boards end up straight after ripping, which with construction grade lumber can be a problem.


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