# How do I finish wood with copper inlays



## gtrwtf (Apr 8, 2013)

I am hoping someone could give some advice on clear coating various types of wood such as maple, alder, and mahogany that have had thin copper inlays added to them. The inlays are very thin and the wood has been routed so they sit flush with the wood's surface. I am hoping there is a product that would stick to both the wood and copper and could be polished to a high gloss.

Just an fyi, I am an artist that has used lacquers and ploys on wood with great results, just not sure if the same methods and products will work with the copper.

Thanks


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If it were me I would use brass lacquer for the first coat and topcoat over it with a cab acrylic lacquer. The brass lacquer is especially formulated to adhere to metal. It might be a good idea especially on the mahogany use a grain filler prior to finishing it. The grain filler will fill around the inlet and fill the grain on the mahogany.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I have finished a lot of conference tables with brass and aluminum inlays and the best product I have found is 2K isolante from Chemcraft. Also it is a good idea to etch the metal with a mild phosphoric acid solution as well. I would do some samples first and then do adhesion tests on them to make sure of your process.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I have added copper inlay to some of my wood carvings.
For spots and eyes, I use copper rivets, filing down the diameter and shortening the shanks.
For larger pieces, I use single-sided copper printed-circuit board cut with a fret saw and shaped with a masonry cutoff wheel in my drill press. The fiberglas or polyphenolic backing is easy to adhere.
Finish: Usually, I scrub the copper with 600-800 grit to get back to the pink of the copper and immediately paint with satin varathane to prevent oxidation. Even MinWax Tung Oil Finish sticks to that (so far, so good!)


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## gtrwtf (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. 

I should have also mentioned this in my original question. I am actually doing the work for a guitar builder and should have considered that the surface will be getting some friction from hand movement and most likely some moisture in the form of sweat. Will the satin varathane, cab acrylic, and the 2k all hold up under these conditions?

Thanks again, you all are a big help.


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## gtrwtf (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks for the reply Steve,
So it's brass lacquer on the brass only then the cab acrylic for the final finish over the wood and the brass lacquer?


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## gtrwtf (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks, for the reply Robson,
The pcb idea is great, I will have to use is on future projects.


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## gtrwtf (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks for the reply Rick,
I read the 2k info and if I understood it correctly it is an adhesion promoter that is applied first that allows other finishes such as polys and lacquers to stick.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

gtrwtf said:


> Thanks for the reply Steve,
> So it's brass lacquer on the brass only then the cab acrylic for the final finish over the wood and the brass lacquer?


I haven't had very good luck with most finishes adhering to metal. The brass lacquer is formulated to use on furniture hardware and will adhere well. You don't have to mask off the wood around the inlay, just spray the metal with the brass lacquer as a sealer and then proceed finishing the furniture with the cab acrylic lacquer. You don't want to use a nitrocellulose lacquer as it will yellow in time. The cab acrylic lacquer will remain clear.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

I went the brass shim/copper sheet way in the beginning = just a bear to cut and it wrinkled. PC board is bash-worthy. If you get the fiberglas stuff, make sure that you have good dust control. A little snort can do ya.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I have done tons of antique furniture including those little brass feet and copper or brass inlay and all I use is lacquer sealer and pre-cat lacquer. Nothing magical or mythical about coating brass, copper or aluminum.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

There is nothing magical about it for sure but if you are doing conference tables and people are putting brief cases and whatever else they throw on those tables the client tends to be unhappy if the finish chips off the metal inlay which if not properly done is a very real possibility. 










This is a 2k urethane product that I was testing and as you can see from the cross hatch adhesion test it failed miserably. (2k urethane has excellent adhesion properties, much better than any brass lacquer or pre-cat lacquer )










This is a picture of the test I did using the Chemcraft isolante product without using a phosphoric acid etch. I was very pleased with the results and haven't had any issues at all on any of the tables I have done that way.


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## gtrwtf (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks for all the great tips, this is a great forum. Time to start experimenting now.


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