# Can you spray poluurethane



## ringmuskie9 (Nov 19, 2014)

So I'm have all my staining finished and wanting to add my top coat this weekend. I took Steve's advice and bought a hvlp sprayer from harbor freight to spray the stain and man am I glad I did. It was really easy and saved a lot of time. So now I'm looking to do the same with my clear satin poly just woundering if it would work like the stain did. Only thing I would about is putting to much down. Not sure if I should wipe the excess like I did with the poly. 
These pine t&g's are going on my wall do I really need two coast of poly? Also, if I do spray the first coat I can lightly sand to get out and blemishes and brush on the second coat if needed?
Thanks again guys


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## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

Why not spray both coats?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I agree, if you have a sprayer, spray all of the finish. It will be necessary to thin the poly a little but very little. You might practice on some scrap wood before spraying your project. It's real easy to put on so much you get runs in it. Still when you do your project you might keep a soft brush in your back pocket and if you get a run brush it out. After each coat lightly sand the finish with 220 grit paper. Two or three coats should do it. 

Another note, when working with a satin finish it's better to start with a gloss finish and use satin for the last coat. A satin finish has flattening compounds in it which can make the finish a little cloudy so layer after layer can add up. If you build the finish with gloss it is clear where you don't get the build up of flattening compound.


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## walnutavenue (Nov 9, 2011)

What size tip does the gun have? I sprayed poly with a 1.4mm tip for a long time and it worked, but not very well. It just doesn't flow well enough. After switching to a 1.7mm tip it has gone much better. If you find you really enjoy spraying I recommend getting a gun for each medium you work with. One gun for stain, one for oil based poly, one for water based, one for shellac, etc.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

Spraying oil based finishes is generally problematic. Oil based finishes are very slow drying so the over spray is in the form of liquid droplets and these droplets will float landing on every surface in the area. When it dries, you will have a crust on all surfaces.

You should either spray outdoors or use an efficient spray booth.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Sure, you can spray it, but good luck cleaning it out of the gun afterwords!


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Sure, you can spray it, but good luck cleaning it out of the gun afterwords!


Curious, what's hard about cleaning poly out of a sprayer?


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## ringmuskie9 (Nov 19, 2014)

Would you recommend thinning the poly like 1/3. 2 parts poly 1 part mineral spirits? I'm not sure what tip comes with the harbor freight sprayer. I know you can adjust it for flow.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

ringmuskie9 said:


> Would you recommend thinning the poly like 1/3. 2 parts poly 1 part mineral spirits? I'm not sure what tip comes with the harbor freight sprayer. I know you can adjust it for flow.


1/3 is probably too much. The formula would need to be tuned to your sprayer. I go by the feel of it stirring it but you might get a viscosity cup and learn how to use it. I just learned to mix finishes without one. Spraying it without thinning the finish would spray a splattered pattern. Keep adding thinner until it barely quits splattering and flows out. Keep tract of how much thinner you are adding and you will know the next time. With my sprayer and sherwin williams poly it's about 1 part thinner to 9 parts poly. A different brand would take more or less thinner. 

When you over thin poly it ruins the integrity of the finish and screws up the sheen. It's good to thin it more for the first coat but after that thin it as little as you can. Over thinning the first coat allows the finish to penetrate into the wood better and get a better bond.


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## ringmuskie9 (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks Steve


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> Curious, what's hard about cleaning poly out of a sprayer?


Ive never managed to get poly cleaned out of a brush, I'd hate to see what it'd leave in my sprayer. I'll be honest, I haven't tried it, but I can foresee no matter how much mineral spirits you run through theres still going to be some in there to could up the works


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Ive never managed to get poly cleaned out of a brush, I'd hate to see what it'd leave in my sprayer. I'll be honest, I haven't tried it, but I can foresee no matter how much mineral spirits you run through theres still going to be some in there to could up the works


I see your point. Mineral spirits doesn't clean very good. I always come back and clean again with lacquer thinner.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

Steve Neul said:


> I see your point. Mineral spirits doesn't clean very good. I always come back and clean again with lacquer thinner.


Wouldntve figured lawyer thinner would do anything to poly, interesting tip though. Still never sending oil based poly through my sprayer. Maybe water based, but not oil. I had enough fun cleaning it after I ran an oil based enamel through...


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

epicfail48 said:


> Wouldntve figured lawyer thinner would do anything to poly, interesting tip though. Still never sending oil based poly through my sprayer. Maybe water based, but not oil. I had enough fun cleaning it after I ran an oil based enamel through...


Actually latex paint is much harder to clean out of a sprayer than oil base. It just dries so much faster than oil you are not washing out wet paint out of a sprayer but dried on paint. With waterborne finishes it is especially beneficial to wash with lacquer thinner after water. It not only cuts the dried on finish but also washes out the water out of the gun. The lacquer thinner will evaporate where you might have water stay in a gun for a long time and if you use another type paint end up getting water in the paint.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

I would start at 1:1 with mineral spirits and adjust from there, but I would think you should be able to spray it easily at that ratio..........

I would also clean out my sprayer with mineral spirits followed by thinner or acetone.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

I spray satin polyurethane regularly and you want to thin it with mineral spirits 10% by volume. NOT 1:1. Nor 1/3. Don't hold your sprayer too close to the work, around 16" works fine. Use the lightest air adjustment at the sprayer end which will allow a smooth flow. Too much air and you lay on too much finish and the stuff goes everywhere. Howard has a point about that, but I just throw plastic drop cloths over tools and lumber and it's fine. I also surround my spray area with upright pieces of 4' x 8' cardboard (cover sheets on ply units at the hardwood dealers. Anytime I buy sheets of hardwood ply, I will get one to lay down on the floor of the trailer before loading the ply) and the cardboard catches most of the direct over spray. But I would disagree with Howard's claim of a light crust on everything. In my experience, it becomes a fine dust which easily wipes off.

As for whether you need more than 1 coat, usually the first coat will have a bit of roughness to it, even though it's oil based poly. See what you think. Since it's not for a customer, if you're happy with it, it's good enough. 

Clean up isn't so hard if the sprayer components come apart easily. Spray a bit of mineral spirits through at the end, or you could spray lacquer thinner through. The mineral spirits will be adequate, but will not get things 100% clean. I take the tip assembly and needle and soak them in thinner. A rubbing with lacquer thinner will remove all remaining residue.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

mmwood_1 said:


> I spray satin polyurethane regularly and you want to thin it with mineral spirits 10% by volume. NOT 1:1. Nor 1/3. Don't hold your sprayer too close to the work, around 16" works fine. Use the lightest air adjustment at the sprayer end which will allow a smooth flow. Too much air and you lay on too much finish and the stuff goes everywhere. Howard has a point about that, but I just throw plastic drop cloths over tools and lumber and it's fine. I also surround my spray area with upright pieces of 4' x 8' cardboard (cover sheets on ply units at the hardwood dealers. Anytime I buy sheets of hardwood ply, I will get one to lay down on the floor of the trailer before loading the ply) and the cardboard catches most of the direct over spray. But I would disagree with Howard's claim of a light crust on everything. In my experience, it becomes a fine dust which easily wipes off.
> 
> As for whether you need more than 1 coat, usually the first coat will have a bit of roughness to it, even though it's oil based poly. See what you think. Since it's not for a customer, if you're happy with it, it's good enough.
> 
> Clean up isn't so hard if the sprayer components come apart easily. Spray a bit of mineral spirits through at the end, or you could spray lacquer thinner through. The mineral spirits will be adequate, but will not get things 100% clean. I take the tip assembly and needle and soak them in thinner. A rubbing with lacquer thinner will remove all remaining residue.


Yes, you can reduce 1:1 if needed. Just depends on brand and tip size of your gun as well. Normally I dont suggest to reduce anything over 30%.......poly you can.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

*Spraying poly*



mmwood_1 said:


> I spray satin polyurethane regularly and you want to thin it with mineral spirits 10% by volume. NOT 1:1. Nor 1/3. Don't hold your sprayer too close to the work, around 16" works fine. Use the lightest air adjustment at the sprayer end which will allow a smooth flow. Too much air and you lay on too much finish and the stuff goes everywhere. Howard has a point about that, but I just throw plastic drop cloths over tools and lumber and it's fine. I also surround my spray area with upright pieces of 4' x 8' cardboard (cover sheets on ply units at the hardwood dealers. Anytime I buy sheets of hardwood ply, I will get one to lay down on the floor of the trailer before loading the ply) and the cardboard catches most of the direct over spray. But I would disagree with Howard's claim of a light crust on everything. In my experience, it becomes a fine dust which easily wipes off.
> 
> As for whether you need more than 1 coat, usually the first coat will have a bit of roughness to it, even though it's oil based poly. See what you think. Since it's not for a customer, if you're happy with it, it's good enough.
> 
> Clean up isn't so hard if the sprayer components come apart easily. Spray a bit of mineral spirits through at the end, or you could spray lacquer thinner through. The mineral spirits will be adequate, but will not get things 100% clean. I take the tip assembly and needle and soak them in thinner. A rubbing with lacquer thinner will remove all remaining residue.


+1. This is correct. Randy has it right. If you mix 1 to 1 you will have most of the poly running on your floor. Start by thinning the poly by adding 10% thinner. Apply thin coats. Allow to dry between each coat. Plan on applying a minimum of two coats. If needed sand very lighty between coats with 320 grit free-cut sandpaper.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

RandyReed said:


> Yes, you can reduce 1:1 if needed. Just depends on brand and tip size of your gun as well. Normally I dont suggest to reduce anything over 30%.......poly you can.


Obviously, a huge difference of opinion here. Either way you decide to go, you would do well to test run your mix before spraying your piece and determine for yourself what you think of the ratios. IMO


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Toolman50 said:


> +1. This is correct. Randy has it right. If you mix 1 to 1 you will have most of the poly running on your floor. Start by thinning the poly by adding 10% thinner. Apply thin coats. Allow to dry between each coat. Plan on applying a minimum of two coats. If needed sand very lighty between coats with 320 grit free-cut sandpaper.


I think you meant I have it "wrong"???? 

Like I said, I rarely suggest anything to be reduced over 30% because it starts changing the integrity of the finish, but you can shot thin "flow coats" of poly and get a nice smooth finish. If you spray Minwax poly through an HVLP gun with a 1.2 tip, you do not have to reduce it at all. However, you can try to spray Red Devil poly (which I think now is discontinued) through the same gun and its not gonna happen.....you would have to reduce it nearly 1:1 to get it to atomize right. Not all poly has the same viscosity range across the board. 

I did say above to start at 1:1 and go from there, which was wrong for me to say. You are correct to start at 10% and go from there. I have no idea why I said start at 1:1, that was my mistake.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

mmwood_1 said:


> Obviously, a huge difference of opinion here. Either way you decide to go, you would do well to test run your mix before spraying your piece and determine for yourself what you think of the ratios. IMO


That is correct. 

Like I said, it depends on the gun, tip size, and the poly being used. To say "Not 1:1" could be incorrect. I have shot poly reduced 1:1 with an HVLP gun, 1.2 tip, and it sprayed just fine. 4 coats and its slick as glass. 

I however hate poly. I personally would choose a nitrocellulose lacquer, pre cat, or a CV any day depending on what the finish is going on.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

If your going to spray your finish, why not use pre-cat lacquer?? It looks much better than poly in my opinion.


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## mmwood_1 (Oct 24, 2007)

Every finisher I have talked to swears that if you do a lacquer job correctly and use a good quality product, it does not water spot. And nearly every one of thier jobs which I have personally seen a couple of years after finishing is water spotting in front of sinks. I would never do lacquer in a kitchen or bathroom for that reason.


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## ryan50hrl (Jun 30, 2012)

I've had a lacquered bathroom vanity for close to 4 years, looks as good as the day I finished it.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

mmwood_1 said:


> Every finisher I have talked to swears that if you do a lacquer job correctly and use a good quality product, it does not water spot. And nearly every one of thier jobs which I have personally seen a couple of years after finishing is water spotting in front of sinks. I would never do lacquer in a kitchen or bathroom for that reason.


There are different lacquers which some are much more water resistant than others. The one that has a reputation for water damage in front of a sink is nitrocellulose lacquer. A precatalyzed or fully catalyzed lacquer are much more water resistant. Still none of them can compare to polyurethane for water proofing. The bad is polyurethane tends to give the wood a real plastic look to them if you get enough on to waterproof.


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## ringmuskie9 (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks for all the input guys. I sprayed most of my boards this past weekend. The tip on my spray gun is 1.8mm so I didn't worry about thinning the poly and it turned out good. 

If I like the way my fist coat looks is it necessary to sand in between? Or is it important so the second coat will bond to the first coat?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

ringmuskie9 said:


> Thanks for all the input guys. I sprayed most of my boards this past weekend. The tip on my spray gun is 1.8mm so I didn't worry about thinning the poly and it turned out good.
> 
> If I like the way my fist coat looks is it necessary to sand in between? Or is it important so the second coat will bond to the first coat?


Polyurethane inherently has adhesion problems. If you don't at least scuff the finish between coats it's possible the finish might peal. Anyway I always sand between coats with any finish I use. When you sand between coats the finish gets smoother and better with each coat. You just have to be very careful in the early stages not to sand through the finish. If the finish looks thin just barely knock the fuzz off of it. Use 220 grit paper to do your sanding with. 

If you were using a finish like lacquer or shellac sanding wouldn't be quite as necessary. These finishes melt into the previous coats.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Steve Neul said:


> There are different lacquers which some are much more water resistant than others. The one that has a reputation for water damage in front of a sink is nitrocellulose lacquer. A precatalyzed or fully catalyzed lacquer are much more water resistant. Still none of them can compare to polyurethane for water proofing. The bad is polyurethane tends to give the wood a real plastic look to them if you get enough on to waterproof.


+1: I agree with this totally. Poly gives the wood an unnatural look in my opinion. There are many types of lacquer. Some are very durable.


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## JCCLARK (Jan 30, 2007)

And if you want something better than lacquer, try 
conversion varnish, it's a 2 part finish that's really durable.
Not much different in price.

As far as cleaning the gun out, I agree with lacquer thinner.
I do a lot of car painting and poly can't be any worse to 
clean than auto urethane clearcoat , an activated finish.
I still use one of my guns that's over 20 yrs old and lacquer
thinner has kept it clean as new.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

JCCLARK said:


> And if you want something better than lacquer, try
> conversion varnish, it's a 2 part finish that's really durable.
> Not much different in price.
> 
> ...


Jim C
I've never used conversion varnish.
What do you like about it?
Do you mix a Hardener with it? 
Who sells it? 
Thanks in advance for some more info on this.


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## JCCLARK (Jan 30, 2007)

I used to use only lacquer but after trying conversion varnish, I'll
never go back.
You do use a catalyst with it, about an ounce per quart.
So it goes a long way.
It's a lot like spraying lacquer, it drys really fast, sands easily
but only takes a couple of coats so you use far less material.
But the best thing is it's durability, one of the strongest finish out there for wood.
For kitchens and baths it'll hold up far better than lacquer
against any moisture.
Here's a good place to get it.

http://www.worldpaintsupply.com/search.php?search_query=lenmar+white&x=0&y=0


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

I have used M L CAMPBELL'S pre-cat Lacquer for years. 

It sprays great, lots of cabinet makers use it, it is QUALITY..

I have done tables, and owners wipe down with wet cloths, and NO ONE HAS EVER COMPLAINED, PERIOD.

I believe SW owns M L Campbell now, but still goes by M L CAMPBELL. 

You must wear a good mask, NOT just a dust mask. 

Dale in Indy


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## JCCLARK (Jan 30, 2007)

Same here, I used pre-cat lacquer and regular lacquer
for the past 35 years. And so did the cabinet mfg's.
It's a quality product, but most all the cabinet companies
have switched to conversion varnish because it is more durable.
I've scrubbed it with lacquer thinner without hurting it,
(that's amazing). Leaving a wet glass sitting on it is not a problem.
It takes less coats so it goes much farther, I use about a
fourth as much as I used lacquer.
It's actually more cost effective than lacquer and you'll
spend way less time spraying, and it cures so much faster.
No more smelling it for days afterwards.
There's lots of advantages using it, I don't know any 
reason to use lacquer anymore the conversion varnish just sprays
so much easier/better.
I still have a couple gallons of lacquer, maybe I'll use it on backs or something.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

A conversion varnish is used by almost all kitchen cabinet and bathroom vanity finishing companies today due to its moisture resistance. The downfall is you can not do spot repairs if conversion varnish is used. Each finish has its place where it should be used. UV coatings and precats are mainly used on table tops these days.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I mix poly and mineral spirits by how it comes out of the gun. If it doesn't spray correctly I'll add more. 50/50 isn't unusual for me. I have stained and put two coats of poly on in one day. The poly goes on thin with the sprayer and dries much quicker than with a brush. I use S&W poly since Red Devil brand is no longer available. For spraying thicker is better out of the can...


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## Smith Brother (Dec 9, 2012)

Follow the instructions on the PRODUCT, or call them. 

It always better to talk with the PRODUCT manufacture, THEY know their PRODUCT BEST. 

Info coming from this site is normally NOT going to be as good as from the manufacture. IMHO.

When it comes down to tech info, call or refer to them FIRST. 

Dale in Indy


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

smithbrother said:


> Info coming from this site is normally NOT going to be as good as from the manufacture. IMHO.


Well that depends on which products they are refering to and who is talking about that certain product. ☺


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rebelwork said:


> I mix poly and mineral spirits by how it comes out of the gun. If it doesn't spray correctly I'll add more. 50/50 isn't unusual for me. I have stained and put two coats of poly on in one day. The poly goes on thin with the sprayer and dries much quicker than with a brush. I use S&W poly since Red Devil brand is no longer available. For spraying thicker is better out of the can...


I have had to reduce certain products alot, and red devil was one of them back in the day. I myself would never use poly on anything today as long as lacquer and other products are available.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

smithbrother said:


> I
> 
> I believe SW owns M L Campbell now, but still goes by M L CAMPBELL.


ML Campbell is owned by SW.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

RandyReed said:


> ML Campbell is owned by SW.


Owned but untouched. Still M.L. Campbell...

Every product has a place. I won't use Cat lacquers where I may have repairs.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rebelwork said:


> Owned but untouched. Still M.L. Campbell...
> 
> Every product has a place. I won't use Cat lacquers where I may have repairs.


SW just built ml campbell a color styling lab in highpoint nc. I had to go and help set it up and actually give them 60 color panels to put on their wall for customers to view. Yeah, we own them.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

RandyReed said:


> SW just built ml campbell a color styling lab in highpoint nc. I had to go and help set it up and actually give them 60 color panels to put on their wall for customers to view. Yeah, we own them.


Own is one thing, changing the product is another. So has Sherwin Williams "changed" the M.L. Campbell product?


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Rebelwork said:


> Own is one thing, changing the product is another. So has Sherwin Williams "changed" the M.L. Campbell product?


You expect him to answer that. :laughing:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I do have my butterfly net out:icon_smile:


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rebelwork said:


> Own is one thing, changing the product is another. So has Sherwin Williams "changed" the M.L. Campbell product?


Yes i will answer that......
So you dont think that once a company buys out another that they wouldnt change anything????
They have changed some ML products, which were mainly their acrylics and they are now using the same raw materials as SW are that they was not using before. Also, all ML products now fall under SW qc guidelines, which happened way back when SW acquired ML Campbell.
Sorry, but your butterfly net has a hole in it. Lol.

SW Also acquired sayerlack and is currently in the process of reformulating ALL of their water Bourne products. 

They also bought Becker Chroma, changing some raws in their formula lineups, and are even gonna change beckers "NAME".


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Personally I really hate it when paint companies change a product. I wish they would put on the label in big bold print when something is changes. I was very nearly put out of business because a paint company reformulated a product and didn't put it on the label. I was using a waterborne direct to metal paint on cast aluminum furniture 20 years ago and the stuff was working great. One day I received a new shipment of paint and they had a new label on the paint. Everything else on the label was the same. I just figured they wanted to be stylish with a new label and went on and used it. After a few weeks customers were returning the pieces I was painting to my customer with the paint pealing off. I called the company and the only information I could get from them was the paint with the new label had be re-formulated. I then changed back to using a zinc chromate primer and quick dry enamel and after a few months the label changed on the primer and it started pealing off again. I then switched to an automotive Variprime primer at 70 bucks a gallon and didn't have any more problems until my customer let me know he needed paint he could depend on and turned the contract over to a company that powdercoated the furniture.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

I cant speak for other companys, but with ML Campbell, all these changes were made as soon as SW acquired them. The qc tests were implemented within the first week.
You would be surprised how many tweaks are put into place without changing labels. The only way we know there is a change is when we look up up the formulation number.
This doesnt happen just with SW, it happens in all major companies and they never release "tweaks" with the public. 
The only problems ive seen is when chemical companies change to cheaper raw materials. AKZO is having this problem right now as it has effected their polyester uv coatings and alot of their precats as we speak. We are actually getting ready to acquire one of their customers because of this.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I don't use M.L.Campbell but was interested their dyes. Not really a good ideal to mention that Campbell formulas have been changed by S.W. as many who like Campbell but not S.W. may move to another product after reading this.


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rebelwork said:


> I don't use M.L.Campbell but was interested their dyes. Not really a good ideal to mention that Campbell formulas have been changed by S.W. as many who like Campbell but not S.W. may move to another product after reading this.


 Why? If people are happy with ML Campbell, they will stay with ML Campbell. I suspect that SW makes or owns plenty of products that people use even though they might not "like" SW. I think its funny when I talk to painters that try and give me a hard time and say "I hate SW, I would never use any of their products"......and yet they are steadily squeezing a caulking gun loaded with *DAP* caulking....which is a SW product. I dont say a word, I just smile at them!

We actually went into a factory that used ML because they were having problems and was not happy with them at all. We went in, matched a few colors on their line, and we took over the account. So basically SW never lost the account in theory. The main problem was the ML technical rep that was at the plant didnt know jack. This is a problem with all chemical companies, including SW. 

As far as U dyes go, check out the S61 line of U dyes in the SW lineup. Range from $80-$100 for a 32 oz bottle per color, but will probably last you 5 years a bottle. They are extremely strong and very good light fast.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

The company I work doesn't use S.W. for anything. Painter hates S.W. But this could mean he had troubles one time and you know how that goes:furious::thumbdown:

Now on the other hand I've had good luck with S.W. and don't stray much. M.L. Campbell should me a pamplet with some various color dyes and I was impressed. I think there sold on 40hwy Blue Springs,Mo. I think there called CDI. Salesman who sold GRASS hinges,etc from BAER SUPPLY now works for them:thumbsup:. Can't remember the guys name:shifty:


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## RandyReed (Jul 30, 2014)

Rebelwork said:


> The company I work doesn't use S.W. for anything. Painter hates S.W. But this could mean he had troubles one time and you know how that goes:furious::thumbdown:
> 
> Now on the other hand I've had good luck with S.W. and don't stray much. M.L. Campbell should me a pamplet with some various color dyes and I was impressed. I think there sold on 40hwy Blue Springs,Mo. I think there called CDI. Salesman who sold GRASS hinges,etc from BAER SUPPLY now works for them:thumbsup:. Can't remember the guys name:shifty:


Hey man, Im just happy your keeping it in the family! LOL. Here are the SW U dyes:
Black .................................... S61B500 
Red .......................................S61R503
Orange ................................. S61E501 
Bordeaux ..............................S61R506
Blue ..................................... S61L505 
Yellow ...................................S61Y504
Brown .................................. S61N502

You own these and you can make any color. Good thing about these is you can also use them in the P63 vinyl paints, so you can actually make a "gray" dye stain by using a P63w9 white and add some S61B500 black mixed in any solvent blend of your choice. 


Im stopping here. We are hijacking the thread and getting way off topic!


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