# Powermatic 65 table saw -restore project



## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Well, I've done it! Begun scratching the top of an old table saw that's been sitting in my garage for a couple yrs! I wonder who has worked on a Powermatic 65? I'm not a mechanic but am willing to tackle this. At one time had the name of a guy in my area who had some knowledge of this model saw. I'd like to connect with someone like that for cheap advice, etc.

Blessings!

Chuck (not the guy in the photo...) Barnett


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

Hi Chuck - I've never worked on a 65 but here's the restoration thread on my 66. You may find something in this helpful to you. Good luck!
David

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/restoration-powermatic-66-table-saw-71249/


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Thank you, David! And I enjoyed both the song and your treatment of it on the video. We've done that song as well many times (me on guitar) and I've never thought to add that little lick -may I steal it? 

Chuck Barnett


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

ChuckBarnett said:


> Thank you, David! And I enjoyed both the song and your treatment of it on the video. We've done that song as well many times (me on guitar) and I've never thought to add that little lick -may I steal it?
> 
> Chuck Barnett


Absolutely! After all, I took it from the original but they did it on mandolin and I took it from them. :thumbsup: Thanks!


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Isn't that funny! I've heard that song many times and yet never heard that lick!


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## Minnesota Marty (Feb 27, 2015)

Chuck, 
Good Luck on the Powermatic restoration. Don't give up. I have done only two restorations and I try to spend a few hours a day on the project this way I always see progress. That is what works for me. Find out what your "sweet spot" is and go with it. 

Marty


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Thank You, Marty. I don't have a schedule that works that way at this time. I'll end up working sporadically over a long period of time, but I won't give up.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Yesterday, with the help of a friend from the Northwest Corner Woodworkers Association club I belong to, the guts are now out of the machine. Charley suggested that even though the arbor bearings didn't seem too bad, I might as well replace them now. It's noteworthy that in order to put new belts on this machine you have to remove the motor. There is no splitter, and it might be nice to have one of those. He recommended a Bessemeyer (sp) fence. They seem awfully expensive to me. I would like a fence that doesn't require a back rail so I could put a table up to the back of the song to catch work before it falls to the ground. I don't know that I need a real wide fence. I can't imagine needing to rip big sheets of plywood, so perhaps 24 to 36 inches wide would be max. Recommendations are welcome.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

delta t2.

http://www.performancetoolcenter.com/delta-36-t30-30-inch-t3-fence-system/?gclid=CPa-tvycwMkCFQgUHwodCyQAMg


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Looks like this is half the price of the Biesemeyer. I assume those of you who have this feel it fills the bill? How is it that something half the price is just as good?

Also, I saw one on Ebay called a Delta Biesemeyer. Are they the same? Is this one just the more cheaply made version? (Ford/Thunderbird, Martin/Washburn...) If I have to pay more, then so be it. But I would need to know why.

I'm not trying to be ornery here; I'm simply revealing my ignorance.

Thanks, again,

Chuck


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

ChuckBarnett said:


> Looks like this is half the price of the Biesemeyer. I assume those of you who have this feel it fills the bill? How is it that something half the price is just as good?
> 
> Also, I saw one on Ebay called a Delta Biesemeyer. Are they the same? Is this one just the more cheaply made version? (Ford/Thunderbird, Martin/Washburn...) If I have to pay more, then so be it. But I would need to know why.
> 
> ...


I think part of the pricing conundrum is that with the bisemeyer, part of the price is going to be the logo. Now, im not going to say that bisemeyers are bad fences, far far from it, just that a fence is a pretty basic part, and the things that may separate a good fence (delta T2) from a great fence (bisemeyer) are likely to be so small that the average hobbyist will never notice.

For what its worth, I own a delta saw, a 36-725, and while i dont believe that the fence is exactly the same as the T2 setup, i do believe its similar enough to where i can say theyre the same. That said, the delta fence is pretty awesome. Id say grab the T2 fence and dont stress the quality, the quality is still fantastic. One thing to watch out for though, the T2 fence uses a 2x2 fence rail, whereas a bisemeyer uses a 2x3. Thatll make no difference in day to day use, unless you decide down the line to upgrade the fence itself


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Shopping for bearings and belts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermatic-...hash=item230f5bb615:m:mNyhYqLanlSByN593tU4nuQ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermatic-...574359?hash=item27daae3497:g:o38AAMXQeKNTKi7L

Are these wise choices??

Thanks, guys!

Also: I think powder coating is pretty expensive. It almost seems possible for all parts but the cabinet itself, though. Buy a $100 kit with gun, etc. Find an old range with an oven that works... ???


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Bought the belts listed above, but didn't trust buying bearings thus, so bought thru a local bearing place (Caman). $70 for the two. With help from a friend they are in the arbor.

I've wire brushed big stuff off the parts. Will wash using Tide detergent. Never tried that... Friend recommends Ospho to treat rust before painting. 

From Ace Hardware I. bought a qt. of rust inhibitor paint mixed to match the green (it's close enough for me). So, not clearly knowing what I'm doing, trying to follow directions..., 'I'm going in.' 

Updates to follow; wisdom welcome!


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## jacko9 (Dec 29, 2012)

Here is another link to a Powermatic 66 overhaul. If you lived out here on the West Coast, I have a spare cast iron Table top for that saw.

http://ggober.com/shop/p66overhaul.htm

Jack


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Thanks, Jack! Not sure what I'd do with a second top.  I have seen pictures of monster tabletops however.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

ChuckBarnett said:


> Looks like this is half the price of the Biesemeyer. I assume those of you who have this feel it fills the bill? How is it that something half the price is just as good?
> 
> Also, I saw one on Ebay called a Delta Biesemeyer. Are they the same? Is this one just the more cheaply made version? (Ford/Thunderbird, Martin/Washburn...) If I have to pay more, then so be it. But I would need to know why.
> 
> ...


the t2 is a very good fence that is easy to install and operate adn will deliver consistently repeatable results. as far as price is concerned, price is a market driven business variable and reflects the point at which supply and demand for a product meet. price has little to do with reliability. just ask owners of land rover automobiles.

m t2 is as reliable and serviceable as the OEM fence on my ridgid 2412. putting a t2 on your 66 will be something you will not regret.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

I will probably end up doing exactly that.  a little short of spending money just now so I will have to save up.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

I want to replace the switch that maybe original with one of the nice big red off switches. Anybody out there have recommendations? thank you.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

I have the cabinet gutted the decals off I'm thinking about separating the base from the sheet metal to prep for paint. 
On another note, while taking the motor cooling fan cover off a screw head twisted off. From what I understand you can drill a hole in the center of the screw and use an extractor (which I would need to purchase) to back that out. This is all feel-your-way for me, so I welcome wisdom.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

ChuckBarnett said:


> I have the cabinet gutted the decals off I'm thinking about separating the base from the sheet metal to prep for paint.
> On another note, while taking the motor cooling fan cover off a screw head twisted off. From what I understand you can drill a hole in the center of the screw and use an extractor (which I would need to purchase) to back that out. This is all feel-your-way for me, so I welcome wisdom.


Can you post a photo of the broken screw? The way you suggested might still be best but easier to advise with a photo.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Good idea.


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## difalkner (Nov 27, 2011)

That shouldn't be too difficult to remove. I have a couple of times, on small screws like that, drilled out the center with successfully larger bits until there's nothing but threads left, then taken a tap and tapped the hole again. But an extractor will work, also. One thing drilling a hole does is allow you to put some lubricant inside to assist in removing the broken piece.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

toolguy1000 said:


> delta t2.
> 
> http://www.performancetoolcenter.com/delta-36-t30-30-inch-t3-fence-system/?gclid=CPa-tvycwMkCFQgUHwodCyQAMg


It looks like this one is the T3 version, suited to contractor saws. An ebay seller said the one I'd need for my saw would be the T2. which is about $125+ more in price. (One seller had it at $319 with free shipping) But I am interested.


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## toolguy1000 (Oct 4, 2012)

the linked fence will do the job for your 66, provided its aligned correctly. even a misaligned Bies will disappoint.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Mine is a model 65. Not sure if that makes any difference. The seller seems to think that it would make a difference.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

WOW! I had no idea how much time repainting takes!!


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

I ran into trouble painting the sheet metal cabinet. Brushstrokes! Here is my post and some great commentary on that whole matter. happily, I now have it to the place where I can live with the quality.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/showthread.php?t=118290

Problem while painting sheet metal on tablesaw


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

ChuckBarnett said:


> I want to replace the switch that maybe original with one of the nice big red off switches. Anybody out there have recommendations? thank you.


Grizzly sells some like that. Nothing too fancy, just an on/off switch with a big honkin stop sign off button, but griz has em cheaper than anywhere else


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

Thanks! I ordered one from them. It is a Shop Fox product. I hope thats good news.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Paddle-Switch-110-230V/D4151


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## rbk123 (Jan 10, 2013)

A couple of additional fence options:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/The-Shop-Fox-Classic-Fence-System-w-Standard-Rails/W2005
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=tools&field-keywords=vega+pro+fence

I would rate both over the T2 with the Vega the best of the 3.


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## ChuckBarnett (Jan 5, 2013)

i have relocated the restore project to the owwm.org site as that makes more sense. I'll avoid duplication and confusion if I go that route. Feel free to continue to comment on this forum however. 

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=138474


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