# help with interior doors



## mikefish34 (Dec 9, 2011)

need help with making interior doors. what materials would be best and what design to use. also what bit sets to use. Thanks in advance, Mike P.S never made doors before!


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## tcleve4911 (Dec 16, 2006)

Need more info on the door style, wood and size.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*pick a design*

From here: http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=ytff1-tyc7&va=wooden+door+design

Then you can plan a method of building based on your capability and tools. Router bit set: http://ptreeusa.com/freud_entry_door_set.htm

Material choices are hardwoods prefferably like Mahogany (pricey), Oak, Cherry others based on price and availability.
Softwood like Pine are more difficult to finish and unless your room theme is Pine will not "fit in".JMO  bill

BTW this is NOT a one paragraph answer. Whole threads have been used: Building oak front door


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## jlord (Feb 1, 2010)

More info would be nice. Stained or painted? Interior doors are normally 1-3/8" thick. Here is a Freud bit set you can adjust for door thickness. Different profiles should be available depending on style.

http://www.freudtools.com/p-208-two-piece-entry-interior-doorbr-router-bit-set.aspx


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Here's some threads*

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/question-about-max-router-hp-building-doors-14447/

This one is a fully detailed explanation of building an exterior oak door and a router table needed to make it by steveg:
Building oak front door
This one compares shapers vs routers:
Router Table vs Shaper or BOTH?
and this:
Router table vs Shaper
The bottom line is this, you can build exterior and interior doors with a 3 1/4 HP router in a table. A small shaper, 3HP will do the same with specific cutters to fit the arbor of the shaper, usually 1" or larger bore.
The cutters on either will be at least 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" dia but do not interchange, since the shaper cutters have a bore, the router cutters have a shaft to fit into the 1/2" collet. You can get an optional 1/2" collet to fit the shaper. 
For limited or full production get the shaper,it's quiet and powerful. For versatility and occasional use, even though it's noisy, I'd use the router and table. :thumbsup: bill 



Check the links within this thread.


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## mikefish34 (Dec 9, 2011)

i have a porter cable 3518 router mounted in a bench dog lift in custom table. also a woodmaster 718, grizzly 8" jointer and all necessary tools needed. The doors are going to be painted as with all trim. These doors are going to be special size as they are storage closet doors upstairs where i am building a full size game room with wet bar. they are only going to be 3' wide by 58" tall. the storage spaces are not fully enclosed to the attick and would like some insulating properties. i have rough framed the openings with normal 2x4


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*traditional construction?*

For your application I would suggest Poplar since it paints well and machines well.

Now your choice is mortise and tenon or rail and style.
Mortises can be difficult without a dedicated mortising machine.
A router can be used but will not make through mortises in 3" wide stock easily. 
Half laps can be used with good results when pinned.
A variation could be a plywood panel set in a dado all around then rails added on either side to give the appearance of a raised panel trimmed with moldings.
Another variation would be a barn door look with edge glued boards and a set in diagonal for bracing.
So, what "style" do you intend to make based on the look?
Raised panels? Flat panels? added molding inside for more decoration? Arts and Crafts or Mission style? :blink: bill


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## mikefish34 (Dec 9, 2011)

i was hoping to do rail and stile with deep pocket mortise and tennon, but do not have a dedicated mortising machine. May have to go the easy route but like a challenge and would like to master this type of joinery. what do you recommend for a mortising machine. thanks for the help


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I have this one*

You're welcome!
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pm701rvu.html


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## mikefish34 (Dec 9, 2011)

does the mortises get put in after the rails and stiles get profiled on the router table or before?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*depends*

It's easier to pare down a tenon that's a bit topo large than enlarge a mortise that's too small...generally.
The latest issue of American woodworker has an article on making a drill press table that can be used for drilling multiple hole for mortises. You still have to pare out the sides with a chisel. 
There are many people who use a mortising attachment on a drill press with good results. The drill press rack is not designed to exert a lot of down pressure as is the deictaed mortiising machine which han a much more robust rack and a lever that's usually about 2X as long for greater leverage..
Mostises need not go through the stile so a router with a jig like a Mortise Pal could be used. A table mounted router could also be used by taking incrementally greater cuts and plunging the work down on the bit.... a little awkward and possibly scary...
You Tube has a few videos on those type of jigs.  bill


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