# Solution for out of square desk?



## EthanHunt (Aug 27, 2012)

I recently began building a desk for my young daughter. This was more of an opportunity for me to experiment with different joinery methods than anything else.

After much careful planning, I have completed the bottom of this very basic desk. When I began to construct the drawers, I found I had built the pedestal out-of-square. I managed to make one side of this panel-type pedestal approximately 1/4 inch longer/deeper than the other side. Thus, the front of the pedestal is slanted.

Now, I have two options: build drawers which match the slanted front OR somehow compensate for the slant so that the drawers can be square. I've considered trying to make false fronts which have bevels to compensate for the slant.

The third option is to start over and consider this a prototype. I only have about $50 worth of materials in it right now. However, I plan to make an edge laminate maple top - so the cost will get higher. I'm trying to decide whether or not the slant will be too noticeable or if there is a reasonable method to square this thing up. I thought about throwing the whole thing on the table saw and trimming it, but that's not practical. 

Any thoughts?

I'll post a picture as soon as I can figure out how.


----------



## EthanHunt (Aug 27, 2012)

Here is a photo. The far right side is 1/4 longer than the left side of the pedestal.


----------



## DannyT (Apr 26, 2011)

you can make the drawers any length and square as long as they fit the face correctly. no one but you and everyone on here will know it's 1/4 off.


----------



## Itchytoe (Dec 17, 2011)

DannyT said:


> you can make the drawers any length and square as long as they fit the face correctly. no one but you and everyone on here will know it's 1/4 off.


x2.

Most of my woodworking has been figuring out a way to hide my mistakes, rather than building a perfect item. I'm getting pretty good at hiding my mistakes.


----------



## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

Are all three drawers going to be off? If it's just the bottom one, using side mounted glides will allow you to put the drawer level and over size the front a little to hide the "character".


----------



## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I am in agreement with all of the above. Unless the 1/4" causes a visual problem (and I would not think it would) I would just proceed with construction that will hide the 1/4".

George


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

EthanHunt said:


> When I began to construct the drawers, I found I had built the pedestal out-of-square. I managed to make one side of this panel-type pedestal approximately 1/4 inch longer/deeper than the other side. Thus, the front of the pedestal is slanted.


I would rectify the out of square condition.

The right end is longer in length than the left...but is it the same front to back dimension as the left end to the cabinet?

Is the height of the leg assembly the same as the left end?

How did you measure for the placement of the rails that divide the drawers? Did you start at the top, or from the bottom?

The bottom drawer is too close to the floor, IMO. I would have made the cabinet with a toe kick of sorts, or a bottom rail a bit taller.

A ¼" differential isn't that much, but might be corrected by taking off ¼" from the right end bottom edge. The rails may be OK, depending where the ¼" exists, and how you measured for their placement.









 







.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

The real question is can you ignore it? I built a set of chairs one time that one was out of square. I looked at it for 20 years and nobody else could see it but if finally bugged me so bad I cut it apart and fixed it. In hind sight I wish I would have fixed it as soon as I found it. At the point you are at now it wouldn't be much work to cut the rails out and resize the right side. Without a bottom the right side will easily spread apart to install new rails.


----------



## EthanHunt (Aug 27, 2012)

Thanks for your response.

The panel on the right side is 25" deep. The panel on the left side (of the drawer pedestal) is 24 3/4" deep. Thus, if I build the drawers square, there will be a 1/4" gap on the left side of the drawer front.

I can certainly build the drawer with a slanted front to compensate, but this gives me a slanted drawer front. I'd considered trying to build a square drawer, then add a wedge between the drawer and the false front, thus compensating for the "slant". I would still need to build a front that is 1/4" thicker on the left than the right.

Not sure this is worth that much trouble. Also, not sure how to manage this without losing fingers on the table saw.


----------



## EthanHunt (Aug 27, 2012)

You make a good point about the bottom drawer, cabinetman. I wouldn't have noticed that until I installed the bottom drawer.

Now I'm even more inclined to simply start over. I was trying to use only glue on this project, but now I wish I'd used screws so I could disassemble it.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

EthanHunt said:


> You make a good point about the bottom drawer, cabinetman. I wouldn't have noticed that until I installed the bottom drawer.
> 
> Now I'm even more inclined to simply start over. I was trying to use only glue on this project, but now I wish I'd used screws so I could disassemble it.



I wouldn't start over. I've been in similar predicaments many times. Disassembly can be achieved at times with just heating the glue joint with a heat gun. Or, if not a quick smack with a mallet. Once apart enough to correct the issues, it can be re assembled. I wouldn't try to compensate for the irregularities.








 







.


----------



## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

I agree with the above. A heat gun and a rubber mallet would prolly allow you to disassemble the M&T joints of the end panel and then cut the 1/4" from it and fill the Mortises with plugs and re-mortise them. Been there-Done that many times myself !!!! 1 hour of work and you'll be back on track. I agree with cabnetman, I'd create a 3" base board and decrease the height of the bottom drawer accordingly.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> I agree with the above. A heat gun and a rubber mallet would prolly allow you to disassemble the M&T joints of the end panel and then cut the 1/4" from it and fill the Mortises with plugs and re-mortise them. Been there-Done that many times myself !!!! 1 hour of work and you'll be back on track. I agree with cabnetman, I'd create a 3" base board and decrease the height of the bottom drawer accordingly.


Actually I might readjust the height of the drawers, as the bottom drawer should be at least the sizes of the others, or larger...but not smaller.









 







.


----------



## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

Agreed! Bottom drawer should prolly accomadate Files and then middle and top drawers adjusted accordingly. This will mean the dividers will need to be removed also, but the heat gun should make easy work of this as well.:thumbsup:


----------



## EthanHunt (Aug 27, 2012)

Good advice! I will try the heat gun and mallet approach. Thanks. 

I'll post pics when I finish.


----------



## Lola Ranch (Mar 22, 2010)

If the right side is 1/4" too deep (front to back), it could be an easy fix. 

You could run a router with a 1/4" straight bit right down through one of the end stiles top to bottom and then just glue it right back together. You would just have to tack something on each end to hold the pieces apart until you are done routing.

If things are meant to be square then a simple fix is in order.

Bret


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I'm wondering what kind of joint you used to fasten the rails in. If they were doweled, the dowel hole will likely show if you attempt the move the rails back 1/4". Then to re-dowel the rails moving the joint back you would have two sets of holes too close together. If this is the situation I think I would use a circular saw and rip 1 1/2" off the right side to take it apart and glue a 1 1/4" piece of new piece wood on there to make the corrections.


----------



## EthanHunt (Aug 27, 2012)

The panels were made with stub mortise and tenons. The legs and stretchers (not sure that's the correct term) on the left were made using full mortise and tenons.

Unfortunately, since I used plywood on the panels, I glued every inch of it together using Gorilla wood glue - great glue, but not sure how it will work with the heat gun. I'm going to glue a test piece up and see how it comes apart. If I can take it apart, I plan to prepare a new 2x4 stile and simply remove the old one and discard it.


----------



## EthanHunt (Aug 27, 2012)

*Gorilla Wood Glue*

According to Gorilla Glue's website, "Heat can not be used to break the glue bond, as Gorilla Wood Glue is very heat resistant. Once cured, it is safe to heat up to 150ºF."

I may be back to simply living with the mistake and learning from it.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

EthanHunt said:


> According to Gorilla Glue's website, "Heat can not be used to break the glue bond, as Gorilla Wood Glue is very heat resistant. Once cured, it is safe to heat up to 150ºF."
> 
> I may be back to simply living with the mistake and learning from it.


Do a test joint. A heat gun is way more than 150º.










 







.


----------



## woodbutcher360 (Jul 1, 2012)

life is too short to worry this much over a child's desk. I understand your frustration as I have been there many, many times. 
My advice? let it be, it'll give it character. (nice thing about being an old fart (72) is that advice is given but its not really expected to be heeded.
;-)


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Interesting design for the desk. Question is how do you keep it from being cluttered like this one.


----------



## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

For Pete's sake, why not just make the drawers to fit the case and let it go?
NO-ONE is going to ever notice. I promise.


----------



## JBSmall (Jul 6, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> Interesting design for the desk. Question is how do you keep it from being cluttered like this one.


 For shame. It's a wonder the electricity can find it's way through all that.


----------



## EthanHunt (Aug 27, 2012)

OK, the heat gun (plus a mallet) did the trick and the problem has been rectified. I have to admit, that issue would have nagged at me if I hadn't fixed it. The heat gun was surprisingly simple and effective. 

Now, on to making the drawers. I'm going to dovetail them (using the PC jig), even though I have the Kreg jig. Then, I'm going to make a butcher-block style top out of maple. The bottom will be painted while the top will be stained - a compromise to satisfy a 6 year old little girl. As I said before, this project is mostly about experimenting with different techniques. I will post pictures once I complete it. 

Thanks for all the great suggestions.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

EthanHunt said:


> OK, the heat gun (plus a mallet) did the trick and the problem has been rectified. I have to admit, that issue would have nagged at me if I hadn't fixed it. The heat gun was surprisingly simple and effective.


I'm glad that worked out for you. It's just a matter of finding fixes for our problems.:yes:









 







.


----------

