# BLO Or Tung Oil



## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

Between BLO and Tung oil which will give the wood more pop or chantaunce (SP.)
Am going to use it on a platter I turned it is an elm burl 12'' Had thoughts about using Waterlox but isn't it mostly BLO

Jerry


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

It's my understanding the Waterlox is a great product. But I can't say from experience. BLO is going to dry faster and does make the wood come alive. I like and respect both BLO and Tung but I would probably use Tung in a blend if at all. I've never had an opportunity to actually compare the two to know for sure. 

Are you finishing on the lathe?

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Brian T. (Dec 19, 2012)

"Tung Oil" is one thing, Minwax Tung Oil Protective Finish is another.
I like the TOPF for many of my wood carvings.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Robson Valley said:


> "Tung Oil" is one thing, Minwax Tung Oil Protective Finish is another.
> I like the TOPF for many of my wood carvings.


Actually that is my favorite off the shelf finish.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

Unfortunately it is off lathe and will need to be hand rubbed, the good old fashioned way.

Jerry


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

wood shavings said:


> Unfortunately it is off lathe and will need to be hand rubbed, the good old fashioned way.
> 
> Jerry


Great. You can get a great finish. Might allow more flooding of the material. Got to go deep, right?

Don't break the rules here. We gota have pics dad!

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

*platter*

Pic of platter that needs finish Platter is elm with burl on one half and the rest is rays rich grain pattern.

Jerry


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

If you are comparing the 2 oils I doubt you will see very little, if any at all, difference between the 2. If you want to see what it will look like, apply some mineral spirits with a rag. You will see the finished appearance, and then they will evaporate causing no problem with whatever you choose for the actual finish.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

In using BLO, and 100% pure Tung oil, the BLO will impart an amber tone, and the Tung will remain fairly clear, but they both will darken the wood. The BLO will dry faster. Your first application or two would benefit from a reduction in the BLO by as much as 50% with Naptha for better penetration. Wipe on and wipe off in a few minutes. You can use full strength, but wipe off what doesn't penetrate after a five or so minutes.


















.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Between Blo and Tung Oil, both will make the grain pop about equal. For the application tung oil is more water resistant than BLO however BLO is a lot easier to finish with. Tung oil is a very slow drying finish and might take a week between coats. The way I check to see if a coat of tung oil is dry enough for another coat is to briskly rub the surface with a clean cloth and see if the tung oil smell rubs off on the rag. When there is no smell it is ready. 

I try not to smell BLO. To me it's about the most offensive smelling product in the finishing regiment.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

NICE platter- make sure you show it finished -Please!!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

IMO, BLO works better than Tung oil for enhancing the grain. With either oils, enough applications will develop a film type finish. 


















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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

As Fred has said, there will be little or no appearance difference between pure tung oil and boiled linseed oil. The BLO is ever so slightly more amber than tung oil. It's the amber color that "pops" the grain. The two oils are very similar in performance and protective qualities. Neither is very good in that regard. Oils are an in-the-wood finish so there is little or no film thickness build up to provide much abrasion protection. Either tung oil or BLO will work about the same but BLO is quite a bit less expensive.

A further note. Any of the "Tung Oil Finishes" or the so-called "Danish Oils" are oil/varnish mixtures consisting of mostly linseed oil and thinners. Applied per their directions, both produce an almost identical finish to a true tung oil or linseed oil finish. However, the varnish or poly varnish used in the mixture adds a bit of protection over and above a pure oil finish.

Here is something I first posted a number of years ago. It may help folks to understand "oil finishes".

There are two "true" oils used in finishing. One is linseed oil which comes from flax seeds. The second is tung oil Which comes from a nut tree that originally grew in China. Both are called drying oils although neither really fully dries and becomes hard. The primary use of both is in manufacturing oil based finishes.

A product that is a true tung oil will have a label that says either "pure" or "100%". If it doesn't say that on the label, IT ISN'T TRUE TUNG OIL. Forget about all the other baloney and look for one of those two words if you want to use a true tung oil. If the label contains any other chemicals, except a thinner, you are not getting a true tung oil. Real tung oil has acquired a cachet in the past twenty years that seems to elevate it to some type of magic potion. In fact, as a finish, it does not offer anything much different than linseed oil. In spite of the hype, is not significantly more water resistant than linseed oil--both are lousy--nor is it any more durable. Used alone both are fairly inferior "finishes". About the only difference is that tung oil is slightly less amber than linseed oil but it also is slightly less effective at "popping" the grain. By most measures, it is not significantly different from linseed oil.

"Tung Oil Finish" is a marketing expression for products that the manufacturer thinks will give you a finish like the finish you get from a true tung oil. These "Tung Oil Finishes" may or may not contain some true tung oil, but most do not contain any true tung oil. Their only claim to the use of the word "tung" is that they claim to give the appearance of finish that results from true tung oil. You're buying a "faux tung oil finish". Similarly, "Danish Oil" is a marketing expression for an finish that gives the appearance of the Scandinavian furniture of the 1950'a and 60's.

There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish mixture). The exact mixtures are proprietary (more oil means a softer finish. More varnish means more protection and durability). Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. If you want make your own, mix equal parts of boiled linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits which will make a nice finish. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil". It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection. These finishes are designed to be a complete finishing system. They are not intended to be over-coated with a film finish. When you do so, you are destroying the look and feel of the finish. For the most part, "Tung Oil Finish" and "Danish Oil" are identical. They are both oil/varnish mixtures.

Here are some oil/varnish mixtures*)
Deft Danish Oil
General Finishes' Seal a Cell
Behlen Danish Oil
Maloof Finish (contains poly varnish, pure tung oil and linseed oil)
Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Antique Oil Finish
Velvit Oil
Watco Danish Oil
Liberon Finishing Oil ((contains pure tung oil and linseed oil)
McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, no linseed oil)

The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.

Here are some thinned varnishes*)
Minway Wiping Varnish
Watco Wiping Varnish
Formby's Tung Oil Finish
Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
Val-Oil
Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
Gillespie Tung Oil
Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish
General Finishes' Arm R Seal
Jasco Tung Oil

Here is one that is a polymerized linseed oil.(*)
Tried&True Danish Oil.

(*) Courtesy Bob Flexner and some personal information.

NOTE: this list if fairly old now (2010) and some products are no longer manufacturered.

One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instructions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).

Finally, I'm not disparaging any of these products. In fact, they are a more protective and durable finish than any pure oil finish. They are what they are and can give you a very nice close-to-the-wood finish when properly applied and not over-coated with a film finish.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

*First coat*

Here is what it looks like with Tung oil Forby's finish what I had. Before and after photos

Jerry


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## guglipm63 (Feb 27, 2013)

Looks nice Jerry


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## Fred Hargis (Apr 28, 2012)

It's gorgeous! I suspect after all the above, you realize that Formby's is about as far from tung oil as it gets. The important thing: your nice work turned out really good.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

Yep but here is what happened thinned and tried on the back of platter turned it over and on the side of the burl had a lot of bleed through. Not what I was planning on, wanted to test finish on the back and the decide once dry. Will now let it dry then knock down and add a second coat. Sometimes things don't go as planned, got lucky.

Jerry


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

wood shavings said:


> Pic of platter that needs finish Platter is elm with burl on one half and the rest is rays rich grain pattern.
> 
> Jerry


That's unbelievable.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

Steve Neul said:


> Between Blo and Tung Oil, both will make the grain pop about equal. For the application tung oil is more water resistant than BLO however BLO is a lot easier to finish with. Tung oil is a very slow drying finish and might take a week between coats. The way I check to see if a coat of tung oil is dry enough for another coat is to briskly rub the surface with a clean cloth and see if the tung oil smell rubs off on the rag. When there is no smell it is ready.
> 
> I try not to smell BLO. To me it's about the most offensive smelling product in the finishing regiment.


That's because all you guys forget the best product to thin with, turp. It also makes the finish stronger because unlike min spir. it leaves solids behind that bind with the finish. Try it.

When I use BLO I never just wipe it on and wipe it off. You gota let it soak in and keep mopping it on until it stops. No need to wipe off the excess. Just put down the rag and keep rubbing it in till it starts to feel dry. Look it over. If you see more finish coming up. Keep rubbing it in with your hands. Your going to spend a while doing this. Then you really get a great first coat. It's much deeper into the wood and that's what makes it a great finish. My grandfather told me to forget about the instructions on the can. That's the way it was done before the can had instructions. 

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

wood shavings said:


> Here is what it looks like with Tung oil Forby's finish what I had. Before and after photos
> 
> Jerry


The grain at the bottom is incredible. Nice job- turning and finishing. Ask 20 different people about finish and you will get 26 answers........ I use General wipe on- finish for dummies...........


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

mike1950 said:


> The grain at the bottom is incredible. Nice job- turning and finishing. Ask 20 different people about finish and you will get 26 answers........ I use General wipe on- finish for dummies...........


Good for you. I do to for the most part. Anything but poly.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> Good for you. I do to for the most part. Anything but poly.
> 
> Al
> 
> Nails only hold themselves.


Wow you are on a roll today Al- general wipe on poly /oil amor/seal
Different strokes for different folks. :thumbsup:


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

mike1950 said:


> Wow you are on a roll today Al- general wipe on poly /oil amor/seal
> Different strokes for different folks. :thumbsup:


Turpentine and paste wax is a favorite for some things. Lacquer,Shellac. With all the choices, why use poly. Oh right it's hard.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> That's because all you guys forget the best product to thin with, turp. It also makes the finish stronger because unlike min spir. it leaves solids behind that bind with the finish. Try it.
> 
> When I use BLO I never just wipe it on and wipe it off. You gota let it soak in and keep mopping it on until it stops. No need to wipe off the excess. Just put down the rag and keep rubbing it in till it starts to feel dry. Look it over. If you see more finish coming up. Keep rubbing it in with your hands. Your going to spend a while doing this. Then you really get a great first coat. It's much deeper into the wood and that's what makes it a great finish. My grandfather told me to forget about the instructions on the can. That's the way it was done before the can had instructions.
> 
> ...


The only problem with your comments is I don't normally thin these products with anything. I agree turpentine is a better solvent but the last time I tried to buy some I had to get a substitue called turpenoid at a arts and craft store. 

Today there isn't much instructions on finishing products. There isn't room with hazzard warnings in multiple languages.


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

*0000 Steel wool*

This is one of those project that I can't afford to mess up on the final outcome. With shellac it sort of melts the last coat you applied and blends in, hence leaves very little in the way of scratch marks when knocking down the finish. With this a lot more is at risk one half no void while the burl half full of pin holes and one major crack. Do you still recommend 0000SW or use maybe 800 - 1000 wet / dry. If SW do you think it will get caught on burl side. I know it sounds like an easy question but most of my SW experience is on big areas boat hulls.

Jerry


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## wisardd1 (Nov 27, 2013)

Another cool trick especially small project is to warm the piece in the oven until warm, then finish. Heat opens the pores and the finish chases the heat, thus, a deeper penetration


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## wood shavings (Mar 20, 2009)

*finished platter*

As promised here is the final product less a little shine it turned out okay. May buff with ( not sure with what yet ) to give it a more warm appearance. just a little shinny for my taste.

Jerry


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

*Red oak finish*

I have some leftover red oak which I want to use for a oriental step cabinet. 

The wood bought at various times has many different grains and colors to it. I like a natural finish but afraid this time there is too much variance in color?? I suspect it would not look right??

Would adding BLO to my poly and mineral spirits darken it or blend it together better with many coats? Using the once a day for a week, once a week for a month approach??

Any thoughts, ideas, input or wisecracks greatly appreciated. JIm


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

jjrbus said:


> I have some leftover red oak which I want to use for a oriental step cabinet.
> 
> The wood bought at various times has many different grains and colors to it. I like a natural finish but afraid this time there is too much variance in color?? I suspect it would not look right??
> 
> ...


No, BLO and or mineral spirits won't affect the color to oil based poly and is incompatable with water base. Also an oil based poly may not be a good product for natural oak. Exposed to sunlight an oil base poly tends to yellow over time. 

Your easiest solution would be to get some more wood that matches. The only other option would be to stain the lighter boards with a dye stain to match the darker boards. This is very hard to do and not get it on the darker boards. You would have to have the means of spraying the dye to even make the attempt.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

jjrbus said:


> I have some leftover red oak which I want to use for a oriental step cabinet.
> 
> The wood bought at various times has many different grains and colors to it. I like a natural finish but afraid this time there is too much variance in color?? I suspect it would not look right??
> 
> ...


Adding BLO to an already mixed oil base polyurethane won't change the color it will impart, but will significantly soften the finish, and take longer to cure. It may not ever achieve the same durability as it would have been if left out. Once an oil base like that has been applied and cured, it can be compatible with a waterbase polyurethane.


















.


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## jjrbus (Dec 6, 2009)

I do not know how my post ended up here?? I thought I started a new topic. Gremlins or old age? Will try to repost at a later time as a new topic.
JIm


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