# Question about stockroomsupply.com DIY drum sander



## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

This seems to be a pretty commonly recommended DIY solution for drum sanding, and I'm more of a DIY kind of person (especially when faced with the cost of a drum sander!) But I just don't get how it works. The drum is embedded in the table...ok. So that means the piece has to be pushed over the drum sander. Won't the piece skip around on the head? It won't have any pressure on it other than the weight of the board you're putting over it, which in some cases might be very little weight at all. Or are you supposed to push down on the board as it passes over the drum head?

Also, the "outfeed" of the sander is the same height as the infeed (since it's just a hole in a flat board). So, won't the piece "rock" on the drum head, as the board moves across, the same way a board would if the outfeed table of a jointer was the same height as the infeed. There's nothing to support for the material removed from the board as it passes over the drum.


What I'm mainly looking to use a drum sander for is cleaning up end-grain cutting boards, and possibly making some veneers too.

Thanks for the help.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I have the pre-assembled 24in Flatmaster

http://www.stockroomsupply.ca/shop/drum-sanders/30-flatmaster-1.html

I can appreciate your questions if you have not seen the unit at a woodwork show, or have not watched the videos.

The drum does not touch the wood. The height of the drum is adjusted until the hook and loop paper just touches the wood with the unit off.

The design is based on the centrifugal force of rotation pushing the abrasive paper against the wood. So this is not a lot of force, but sufficient to sand. This is one of the reasons why the sanding action produces so little heat.

The operator keeps the piece flat against the table. You do have to be careful not to push the front edge down or else the board will not come out flat.

You will soon get the hang of how to push boards across the table.

If you are getting the DIY kit, I would make the table deeper than the pre-assembled unit. I wish the table were about 6in deeper on infeed and outfeed sides.

The abrasive paper lasts a long time, partially due to low force/heat and due to not clogging up. The drum does not allow static to build up. The lack of heat means no burning of resins. I even tried sanding a board with latex paint just for a test. It worked. I tried the same with my Performax sander and it ruined the abrasive.

This unit would be good for smoothing down end grain boards.

The abrasive is not difficult to remove.

Just mark the table on the left side so you remind yourself not to get within the last 1/2in or you may catch the end of the abrasive and then it comes off very fast. DAMHIKT.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I picked up the 18" Flatmaster on Craigs List last year.

http://www.stockroomsupply.ca/shop/drum-sanders/18-flatmaster.html

Got it for exactly the same purposes and it seems to be less finicky than a real drum sander. Been working on my shop and haven't had much chance to use it on projects but from my testing and fooling around it works great. Should be terrific on end grain.

Side note: A couple of drum sanders popped up recently on Craigs List under $500. 16" and 18" looked like pretty good deals. This is in the NJ/PA area.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Do you mean this one? 

http://altoona.craigslist.org/tls/3610843785.html

A shop fox 12" was on around christmas, and around the time I thought I might be able to get it for $250, it sold. A grizzly showed up recently, again 12", for $350. And now the Delta. $450 is probably not bad, and 18" is certainly enough for our needs. I tried doing some quick researching on reviews, and none of them seemed to be overwhelmingly positive.

Looks like to get an 18" from SRS, I'd have to spend $295 (CA, so how much is that in real money?), plus acquire a motor and build the cabinet.

Are the flatmasters good for sanding very thin stock (veneer, so, maybe < 1/8")?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

beelzerob said:


> Looks like to get an 18" from SRS, I'd have to spend $295 (CA, so how much is that in real money?), plus acquire a motor and build the cabinet.
> 
> Are the flatmasters good for sanding very thin stock (veneer, so, maybe < 1/8")?


The Stock Room Supply site allows you to change currency.

Sanding very thin stock is a challenge for most machines for us hobbyists.

You would need to attach the veneer to a backing board. Easy to attach perhaps, but may not be so easy to remove.

Similar issues with a conventional drum sander. I have a Performax 16/32 and needed to use a backer board to sand some thin strips of ash, about 3/64in thick for a friend.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Yes, here's the other, a 16" near Philly. 

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/3614957938.html

I think you would have better luck on veneers with the SRS sander though.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Interesting thread. I never knew such a sander existed. I need to look for videos of one of these things in action; I have the same questions/doubts that beezlerob has in his original post.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

mikeintexas said:


> Interesting thread. I never knew such a sander existed. I need to look for videos of one of these things in action; I have the same questions/doubts that beezlerob has in his original post.


No doubts, this really does work. I have one, my friend has one, and we both love them.

This is one of his videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj9CkBLHuG4&list=UURyl8vU65g8fw4qUj0xMjug&index=38


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Do you have any experience with the flat master vs. other drum sanders, Dave? Would you recommend it over a more "standard" drum sander? I'm thinking of this used Delta 18 X36 on craigslist for $450. It's something I could have by this weekend....but I don't really NEED it now. So if the flat master were a better overall sanding device, it might be worth it to wait.

Only problem I see is finding a motor for the thing. I don't know a thing about electric motors, though I know at least a couple tend to sell at every auction I've been to.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Dave Paine said:


> No doubts, this really does work. I have one, my friend has one, and we both love them.
> 
> This is one of his videos.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj9CkBLHuG4&list=UURyl8vU65g8fw4qUj0xMjug&index=38


 
Cool! I really like how the sawdust does not get trapped b/t the drum and the workpiece. I gotta get one of those. Thanks for the video. :yes:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Just watched the video... Veeeeery interesting. So it's kind of a sandpaper jointer. And quick, too. I can see how it would make cutting board cleanup a LOT faster.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

This is the kind of thing I got one for.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2VkVGlCeR4&list=UURyl8vU65g8fw4qUj0xMjug


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Very nice, Shop Dad. This truly seems to be a very useful tool. While building one yourself would save money, I would think it would be difficult to mount the roller at exactly the correct height. I wonder if they make "adjustable roller brackets" that had say, 1/8" of adjustment either way up/down?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

mikeintexas said:


> Very nice, Shop Dad. This truly seems to be a very useful tool. While building one yourself would save money, I would think it would be difficult to mount the roller at exactly the correct height. I wonder if they make "adjustable roller brackets" that had say, 1/8" of adjustment either way up/down?


I have not looked at the DIY kit, but the pre-assembled units have height adjustment at either end.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

beelzerob said:


> Do you have any experience with the flat master vs. other drum sanders, Dave? Would you recommend it over a more "standard" drum sander? I'm thinking of this used Delta 18 X36 on craigslist for $450. It's something I could have by this weekend....but I don't really NEED it now. So if the flat master were a better overall sanding device, it might be worth it to wait.
> 
> Only problem I see is finding a motor for the thing. I don't know a thing about electric motors, though I know at least a couple tend to sell at every auction I've been to.


I have the FlatMaster and a Performax 16/32 conventional drum sander.

I rarely use the Performax these days. Too much heat. I leave the 80 grit on the drum. Trying to use finer grits especially finer than 120 will result in the abrasive gumming up in a VERY short period.

The FlatMaster I can use 120 or 220 or higher. I tend to leave 120 on just for faster stock removal, but since the abrasive does not get gummed up you can go much finer than a conventional drum sander.

Changing the abrasive is also easier.

I would not worry about having to purchase a motor. Stock Room will provide the recommended size. My 24in has a 1/2HP motor. 17xx rpm. Very standard.

I purchased mine from Grizzly, but also readily available at Tractor Supply, Northern Tool, heck even motors from older washers.

The motor should have a diagram for wiring. I added a switch also purchased from Grizzly.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Man, this thread comes at a bad time; my tax refund should hit next week. :thumbsup: I'm really interested in this.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

mikeintexas said:


> Man, this thread comes at a bad time; my tax refund should hit next week. :thumbsup: I'm really interested in this.


LOL. :laughing:


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Incredibly good info, thanks Dave. I'm thinking that since the flatness of the top is so important, I will probably go with their metal tops instead of making my own out of MDF.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

beelzerob said:


> Incredibly good info, thanks Dave. I'm thinking that since the flatness of the top is so important, I will probably go with their metal tops instead of making my own out of MDF.


FYI, if the top is like mine, it is aluminium glued onto MDF.

I picked up a bigger and thicker piece of aluminium to make a replacement top which is deeper, but this is still on the future project list. I will be attaching this to MDF or plywood, some base to increase stiffness.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

beelzerob said:


> Incredibly good info, thanks Dave. I'm thinking that since the flatness of the top is so important, I will probably go with their metal tops instead of making my own out of MDF.


This is exactly what I'm thinking. If the top isn't perfect flat, everything you sand will be screwed up. I am probably going to get the 24" "works kit" and the metal-covered top. I could potentially save a few bucks by getting the MDF top and laminating some sheet metal to it myself, but why risk screwing up the most important piece of the whole machine? On a related note, their "works" kits are a bit pricey for what you get, IMO. I've been looking on Grizzly's site and they sell pulleys, etc. I may see if I could cobble together some parts. I do not, however, want to build my own drum. Getting a ton of MDF disks perfectly round and all the exact same size would be an exercise in frustration. Not to mention covering my entire garage in MDF dust...which never, ever goes away.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Dave Paine said:


> FYI, if the top is like mine, it is aluminium glued onto MDF.
> 
> I picked up a bigger and thicker piece of aluminium to make a replacement top which is deeper, but this is still on the future project list. I will be attaching this to MDF or plywood, some base to increase stiffness.


Good info, thanks, Dave. I still may make my own top...I think the ones they sell are too small. I'd like more infeed and outfeed room. Not too sure about me laminating steel/aluminum to it (I would screw that up), but MDF is perfectly flat and I don't think I'd screw up laminating two 3/4" sheets togther.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

DAVE: If you don't mind, what size is the opening in the top? That's the only dimension I'd need if making my own top. Thank you.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

mikeintexas said:


> DAVE: If you don't mind, what size is the opening in the top? That's the only dimension I'd need if making my own top. Thank you.


I will be happy to measure. At the moment I have something which was just painted resting on a cover I place over the top. Just need to let the paint set before moving. :icon_smile:


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Great. Thanks, Dave. No rush. Tax money doesn't come until next week. :thumbsup: 

On a related note, I watch the vid on Stockroomsupply's site where they show you how to cut the hole in the top. They do it with a TS for the long cuts on the slot; they raise the blade through the board, ala tablesaw sled style. Then, they finish the short ends with a jigsaw. I'll probably just do the whole thing with the jigsaw and a straight edge guide. They also put a 45-degree bevel on the underside of the slot (nearest the roller). They use the TS for that...router might be a safer way to go.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Dave, what is the reasoning behind getting a 4" drum instead of a 2" drum? So other than the typical reason that bigger is better....what is the *advantage* of a larger diameter drum?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

beelzerob said:


> Dave, what is the reasoning behind getting a 4" drum instead of a 2" drum? So other than the typical reason that bigger is better....what is the *advantage* of a larger diameter drum?


I feel a larger diameter drum provides more contact area of the abrasive and slightly closer to the abrasive being flat in the area which makes contact. More contact should result in faster sanding to the desired smoothness.

I have not tried a 2in drum, so just postulating the potential difference.

A larger drum would be stiffer so less deflection potential.

In a normal drum sander where the drum applies pressure on the wood, I think smaller diameter would mean more heat.

For the Flatmaster I would not expect any difference in heat, since in either case the roller is not contacting the wood.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

All very good points, and helpful. Thank you!


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

mikeintexas said:


> Great. Thanks, Dave. No rush. Tax money doesn't come until next week. :thumbsup:
> 
> On a related note, I watch the vid on Stockroomsupply's site where they show you how to cut the hole in the top. They do it with a TS for the long cuts on the slot; they raise the blade through the board, ala tablesaw sled style. Then, they finish the short ends with a jigsaw. I'll probably just do the whole thing with the jigsaw and a straight edge guide. They also put a 45-degree bevel on the underside of the slot (nearest the roller). They use the TS for that...router might be a safer way to go.


I think a jigsaw with a straight edge would work. Routing a 45 deg bevel would work. I would want the router bit to have a pattern bearing.

Remember to leave about 1/8in so the edge is not too sharp.

I measured my Flatmaster. It seems I have the 30in drum version.

My overall table is 38in wide x 15 1/2in deep.

The slot is about 2 3/8in deep x 32 1/2in long which means the infeed and outfeed sides of the table are about 6 1/2in deep.

There is a notch on the motor end (right side) which is 2 3/4in deep x 1 1/4in wide. I do not feel this is necessary on my unit. Perhaps they are just being conservative.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Many thanks, Dave! I appreciate all the finer details. I was contemplating building the 30" vs the 24" version. The parts are not all that much more expensive and I'd have 6" more sanding width. But I'm limited on storage space and even on the off chance that I built cabinets, the panels wouldn't be wider than 24" anyway. Now, the 18" vs. 24" debate is much simpler. While the vast majority of my projects are much narrower than 24", it's nice to have the added capability. And being that this sander is a "tabletop" unit, it can store under my bench when not in use. 

I do wish the parts were cheaper. I realize you get what you pay for but I just don't see $300 worth of parts there in those kits, no matter how finely the pulley's are balanced, etc. But then again, the thought of me trying to make my own perfectly round, balanced drum out of 934 individual MDF discs and get it covered perfectly in Velcro makes me nauseous. :yes:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

If your normal projects are not so wide, then an advantage of the 30in unit is that you can have half the drum with one grit and the other half with a different grit.

This is why I purchased the 30in in the first place.

I presently have only 1 grit on the drum, but it is nice to have two grits on the drum at the same time.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Two grits on at once... That's pretty clever.

The description of the assembled Flatmaster says it has a commercial steel top, but the picture sure looks like laminated plastic. Dave, yours is a steel top?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

beelzerob said:


> Two grits on at once... That's pretty clever.
> 
> The description of the assembled Flatmaster says it has a commercial steel top, but the picture sure looks like laminated plastic. Dave, yours is a steel top?


No, mine is a layer of aluminium glued to what looks like MDF. If they have switched to steel, this would be better.

The aluminium is anodized so it does not create black marks, but it does scratch easier than steel.

The picture of the 30in flatmaster does look like plastic, I see the 30in top they are selling states MDF with plastic laminate, so they have changed since I purchased my unit.

It looks like they now offer laminate over plastic and steel over plastic for the 18in and 24in tops.

I mentioned two grits, but if your pieces were narrow, you could even use 3 grits on the 30in drum. Just need to be careful to avoid the left edge of each grit.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Since we're looking at the 18" model, and won't have the luxury of multiple grits at once... How difficult/time-consuming is changing out grits for the entire drum?

I sent an email to SRS to ask about the top.

Edit: They're quick:

"The top pictured is not the same top that will come with the sander. The
top pictured is our older aluminum laminated mdf top. The top you will
get is 2 pc - a steel top plate and MDF bottom plate."

Nice!


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Talk about fortuitous timing for asking a question. She replied back and told me that:

Just FYI - Today Only you can save 18% off anything on our
website by using the code FAMDAY13. It's in celebration of Ontario's
newest holiday, Family Day.


It's on their website too! I had been going to wait until I got a motor, but this is way too good a deal to pass up I think. TODAY ONLY!


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Dave, I'm leaning towards the DIY kit now, as I'd like a little more flexibility in the size of the work surface and the box underneath. That way I can affordably get the 30" X 4". 2 grits on at the same time is REALLY enticing.

Do you find the amount of workspace in front of the drum to be somewhat limited? that's one of the main reasons for wanting to build my own...it just seems like a very short amount of space before the drum.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I have thought about building mine into a work table. This would give additional support in front and back. However, unless you are doing long pieces the space their tables provide should be enough.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Heh..I had a wild moment where I considered installing it into the extended table part of my sawstop, since that's just plastic covered MDF (or possibly particle board) . I just don't have the balls to do that, though. :tongue_smilie:


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

beelzerob said:


> Dave, I'm leaning towards the DIY kit now, as I'd like a little more flexibility in the size of the work surface and the box underneath. That way I can affordably get the 30" X 4". 2 grits on at the same time is REALLY enticing.
> 
> Do you find the amount of workspace in front of the drum to be somewhat limited? that's one of the main reasons for wanting to build my own...it just seems like a very short amount of space before the drum.


Two grits on the one drum is very handy, e.g., 100 grit for faster stock removal, and then 220 to smooth things out.

I do find the 6 1/2in infeed/outfeed depth to be shorter than I prefer. It means the operator has to balance longer items carefully to avoid inconsistent sanding. I think more like 10 - 12in would work for my projects typically cutting boards.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Thanks again Dave! I'll make sure to throw in a roll of 220 in the order, since it'll also be 18% off today.

I'll definitely be going the DIY route then. I'm going to call around to see if I can pick up a steel or stainless steel top for it from a local welder. I can probably buy the metal at the local surplus store, maybe I can just get a welder to cut the slot for me.

I got a free motor/squirrel cage from my A.C. contractor last year (and built a shop air filter with it), so now I'm asking if he has anymore laying around I can use. Worst case, I've found the H.F. solution for $99, so getting a motor doesn't seem to be a problem.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

beelzerob said:


> Thanks again Dave! I'll make sure to throw in a roll of 220 in the order, since it'll also be 18% off today.
> 
> I'll definitely be going the DIY route then. I'm going to call around to see if I can pick up a steel or stainless steel top for it from a local welder. I can probably buy the metal at the local surplus store, maybe I can just get a welder to cut the slot for me.
> 
> I got a free motor/squirrel cage from my A.C. contractor last year (and built a shop air filter with it), so now I'm asking if he has anymore laying around I can use. Worst case, I've found the H.F. solution for $99, so getting a motor doesn't seem to be a problem.


This machine can use even finer grits. I purchased 320, but have not used this, since the scratches will be seen.

After the 220 I then use my random orbit sander to remove the scratches with finer discs.

FYI, you will also want to attach a switch. I purchased this one from Grizzly. I like the big paddle "STOP".

A mechanical switch, works well on my machine.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243

I am happy you are going to build one of these. I am confident you will like using it.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Figures they'd have an 18% off sale and my money won't be here until next week. Every time my ship comes in, I'm at the airport. Good for those who get in on the deal though!

Two grits on the roller at once sounds like a great idea! I'll be custom building mine; 6 inches on the in/outfeed sides are just way too short to ensure even sanding, IMO.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well Mike, better to pay more later than to spend money you don't have.

Fortunately we had the money on-hand due to some recent overtime. If the sale was meant to have me spend more, it worked! I came away with the 30" X 4" DIY kit, 2 extra rolls of sandpaper, and 2 bandsaw blades. No shipping and no tax and 18% discount....count me as happy!


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Score! That's some haul. 18% off and no shipping is nothing to sneeze at. Congrats! Be sure to post pics/a build thread of what you wind up with. I'm not sure exactly how big an overall table I want, but I KNOW I want bigger than 6" on either side of the roller.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

I agree, I want something 10"-12" in front of the wheel.

I'm calling around now to local welding shops to see if I can come up with about a 38" X 24" piece of either normal steel or stainless, and have them cut the slot in it. He said he'd call back tomorrow. If it's too expensive, I may just go down to surplus city, find a suitable piece, and then see how much they'd charge just to cut the slot.

If you have a local counter shop, maybe they have "spare" pieces of granite you can use for cheap.


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

Granite? Now there's an idea. It's totally flat (good enough for sanding table use anyway), dimensionally stable and...well, that's all you really need. I wonder how accurately they could cut a slot in it? That's not a "normal" granite-cutting operation, AFAIK.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Well, I acquired a motor (Harbor Freight) and gave it a test spin last night, so that's done. Now I'm actually ready to begin building this thing. Dave, any last helpful words as far as the size of the table/box I should build for this thing? I understand about a little more room on the infeed side, and I agree...I'm shooting for about 1 ft in front of the drum, and maybe the same behind it. Any other observations as far as the size of the box?

I'm a little concerned about the overall size and weight of this thing, as the motor is dang heavy and will be hanging off the back. Then an MDF top around 2' by 3'...I'm wondering how likely I am to be able to move this thing on and off surfaces to use.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

I think 1ft infeed and outfeed should be fine. Wider than my present setup.

The top and the ends need to be stiff, but the front and back sides do not need to be stiff.

You just want some cover around the drum to collect the dust. This can easily be made from 1/4in ply, etc. Just design in the dust port. 

You could make the motor to be easily removed. Old lathes did this. Hinged motor mount so that gravity kept the tension for the belt. Easy to remove the belt then lift the remainder of the machine.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Ya, I was considering the hinged motor mount. I'll have to see if the shape of the motor allows that easily.

You suggest wider than your present setup? I had figured a top 36" wide, so 3" on each side of the drum.

I have a plastic cover with a dustport attached, I just have to cut a square opening in the side large enough for it. I'm figuring the box under the table will be about 1' tall.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

beelzerob said:


> You suggest wider than your present setup? I had figured a top 36" wide, so 3" on each side of the drum.


No, my phrasing was bad. Your 1ft for the infeed and outfeed is good. I should have said it is deeper than my present setup.

3in on either side of the drum is good. Just need to be as wide as the overall length of the drum shaft and the drum height adjustment brackets..


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

mikeintexas said:


> Interesting thread. I never knew such a sander existed. I need to look for videos of one of these things in action; I have the same questions/doubts that beezlerob has in his original post.


I had a similar thread 2-3 weeks ago and Dave almost sold me on one. Not his fault I still may build one but It was going to cost more than what I was able to get a 12" Shop Fox for. 

$275 for kit
$176 for 1/2 hp motor although I found one for $130 the other day.
$30 for wood etc.


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## beelzerob (May 2, 2010)

Dave hit me at just the right time with his useful info, as they had an 18% sale at stockroom supply when I started asking about it. 

The 1/2 HP motor I got from HF is only $99 online. I picked it up at the store, so no shipping. Only time will tell if this ends up being a good deal or typical HF.


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## ChipperOfWood (Oct 18, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> I have the pre-assembled 24in Flatmaster
> 
> http://www.stockroomsupply.ca/shop/drum-sanders/30-flatmaster-1.html
> 
> ...


Hi Dave. This is what I have been looking for. I realize that this is an old thread but I assume the information is still rellevent.

I plan on getting one of the DIY kits but am torn between the 24" and the 30". I notice that you have the 24". Is there ever a time when you wish your was wider? Have you tried to sand any thing wider then the 24"? It would probably be rare when I would need the extra width but maybe I'll wish I had it later. :confused1:


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## ChipperOfWood (Oct 18, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> I have the pre-assembled 24in Flatmaster
> 
> http://www.stockroomsupply.ca/shop/drum-sanders/30-flatmaster-1.html
> 
> ...


Dave, I know this is an old thread but I noticed that you have a 24". Has there ever been a time when I wished it were wider? (like 30") I am on the cusp of ordering a DIY but can't make up my mind if 24" is wide enough or I should go for the 30".

Your input would be most welcome.
Charlie


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

ChipperOfWood said:


> Dave, I know this is an old thread but I noticed that you have a 24". Has there ever been a time when I wished it were wider? (like 30") I am on the cusp of ordering a DIY but can't make up my mind if 24" is wide enough or I should go for the 30".
> 
> Your input would be most welcome.
> Charlie


Well I had a brain fart at the time of my post. I actually have the 30in unit. :blink:

At the time I was thinking about installing 3 different grits on the drum. I ended up only using 2 grits, since I needed more than 9in for my glue-ups.

Wider will come in handy at some point. I would go for the 30in.


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## ChipperOfWood (Oct 18, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> I have the pre-assembled 24in Flatmaster
> 
> http://www.stockroomsupply.ca/shop/drum-sanders/30-flatmaster-1.html
> 
> ...


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

ChipperOfWood said:


> Hey Dave, or anyone else who might know. Since you have a v sander can you tell me which way the drum turns? Towards the operator or away from the operator? I have watched several videos and I can't tell for sure. The reason I ask is the motor I aquired is reversable.
> 
> My DIY kit is supposed be here tomorrow:thumbsup: according to the UPS tracking notice I received. I am getting kind of anctious because I am kind of between projects right now. :yes:
> 
> Charlie


The drum rotates towards the operator. I re-used a 1/2HP motor on my unit and needed to change the rotation. The motor had the instruction on the terminal box, just had to switch two wires.

I can appreciate you being eager to get this unit up and running.

FYI, I use a piece of masking tape on the left end of the abrasive. The left end is rotating towards the operator and tapers down to a sharp point. Not a lot of hook and loop holding. I had a piece start to come loose and did not pay attention to the noise at first. I did 
once it caught on the slot.  A very fast way to remove the abrasive. :icon_smile:

The masking tape is now my warning sign. If this starts to lift, I will hear the noise of this hitting the slot. I turn off the machine and replace the piece of tape.

Good luck with your machine. :thumbsup:


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## ChipperOfWood (Oct 18, 2012)

Dave Paine said:


> The drum rotates towards the operator. I re-used a 1/2HP motor on my unit and needed to change the rotation. The motor had the instruction on the terminal box, just had to switch two wires.
> 
> I can appreciate you being eager to get this unit up and running.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave. It came yesterday in good order. Regarding the point coming loose, you may already know, but they are recommending that the point be cut off about a 1/4 of an inch or so. Apparently your experience with the paper coming loose and the same as many other folks.

Thanks for your help. I may post some photos later on.

Charlie


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## Gordon S. (Sep 25, 2014)

Wow! :thumbsup: cool topic, guess I am a little late getting into this one, but I am purchasing the 24" ready made unit in a couple of weeks, this will be used mainly for my acoustic guitar projects but also for the electric builds as well, just found out about Flatmaster this past week.


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## vhuffines (Jul 27, 2011)

I built an 18" v-drum sander (with a stockroom kit) about a year ago. Its job is to flatten segmented bowl rings before glueup. They need to be perfectly flat. This inexpensive sander does this with just a few passes (100 grit paper) to each side. Have made 60 or 70 bowls and only changed paper 3 times. It is used to flatten box sides also. I use a 4" dust hose and there is NO dust. Someone mentioned paper coming loose on ends, a couple turns of masking tape on just the end stops this. Since the paper sets so low I use the table as the out feed on my table saw. I'm sold on these sanders for the jobs it does for me. If you want more input message me.


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