# Adirondak Chair-best wood type?



## nubie (Jan 9, 2008)

I am going to build a couple Adirondak chairs and the plans I have call for Mahogany.

I live in Colorado which is a dry sunny climate and these chairs will sit outside 24/7 all year long.

Does anyone have an opinion on using Mahogany or could suggest another hardwood that will stand up o the weather in natural unfinished state? 

I have a complete wood shop and can work with 4/4 and 5/4 and other sized stock that has one straight edge milled at the wood supply dealer.

Thanks,
John


----------



## bob sacamano (Jan 24, 2012)

are you going to paint them ? put finish on them ? or leave them raw ?

if you have a complete shop why do you need one straight edge ?


----------



## WillemJM (Aug 18, 2011)

While Mahogany (the dark red heart wood, not the sap) has excellent weather resistant properties, I would not use it on Adirondak chairs, mainly due to the expense. It is preferred for fine high end cabinetry work.

If it were me, I would probably build in Red Oak, use a UV resistant clear finish and plan on refinishing once every two to three years.


----------



## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

I have been building Adirondack Chairs for over 15 years from Southern Yellow Pine. I coat the end grain with epoxy to keep water from wicking into the wood and use Titebond II or III wood glue for all joints. Deck Screws and or Galvanized stove bolts for fasteners. Gorilla Glue also works well. I spray 3-4 Coats of Marine Varnish with a High UV resistance or Primer and Paint with Rustoleum Industrial Oil Based Enamel thinned 15% with Acetone to acheive a High Gloss durable finish. You can even ad an Acrylic Enamel Hardener to the mix and acheive an almost Car Like Finish that will last for years out in the elements.


----------



## Howard Ferstler (Sep 27, 2007)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> I have been building Adirondack Chairs for over 15 years from Southern Yellow Pine. I coat the end grain with epoxy to keep water from wicking into the wood and use Titebond II or III wood glue for all joints. Deck Screws and or Galvanized stove bolts for fasteners. Gorilla Glue also works well. I spray 3-4 Coats of Marine Varnish with a High UV resistance or Primer and Paint with Rustoleum Industrial Oil Based Enamel thinned 15% with Acetone to acheive a High Gloss durable finish. You can even ad an Acrylic Enamel Hardener to the mix and acheive an almost Car Like Finish that will last for years out in the elements.


What about just using pressure-treated pine? Less post-construction special finishing required.

Howard Ferstler


----------



## Tom5151 (Nov 21, 2008)

Howard Ferstler said:


> What about just using pressure-treated pine? Less post-construction special finishing required.
> 
> Howard Ferstler


+1...built a whole set of Adirondak chairs, tables, etc and that's what we used. Has stood up just fine in the harsh climes of northern Wisconsin for a number of years. If you want to treat further, Sikkens makes a product for sealing PT wood that works great. If not just leave it the way it is.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If money was no object I would use teak and use an oil finish. Mahogany would not do too good without a marine grade varnish or paint and then the grain would be hard to cover. Otherwise I would use pressure treated pine with an oil finish or paint.

Either the teak or treated pine would hold up without a finish but the appearance would hold up better with an oil finish. No wood is going to hold up without some finish because the sun will dry out the surface of the wood and it will oxidize and crack without something to moisturize it. I recently replaced a deck on a utility trailer that had treated wood on it that was 25 years old. The trailer had been severely abused hauling equipment and gravel. The wood I took off the deck I cleaned it up to get the sand and gravel out of the wood and ran it through my planer. I only had to take off about 3/16" to where it looked like new wood again.


----------



## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Garapa, Ipe, Tigerwood, Teak, etc.


----------



## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

A high oil wood would be best. According to the Wood Whisperer episode 165 - The Global Warping Effect indicated that the woods that hold up the best are padauk, cherry, and white oak (not red oak). I would give the URL; however, I'm using my iPhone with the WW ap so I don't know the address. Sorry. Just google it. I'm sure you can easily find it. He has video of how many different types of wood do outside without a finish for a long time, it was an accident but interesting what the results were. 

I would suggest that you at least put oil on whatever wood you choose to help protect it from water.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum


----------



## JoeNY (May 8, 2012)

I have a set of four I made in Mahogany 17 years ago. They sit out 24/7/365. The biggest issue is the periodic refinishing. The first time I finished them with 4 coats of Interlux marine varnish - Schooner Gold, which lasted 8 years before it started to fail. I then re-coated them with the same prodcut and it laster 6 seaons. I last recoated with Minwax Helmsman, which only lasted 3 seasons - wouldn't use that product again outdoors.
I alos have a bench made out of teak that is coated with Cetol, which is a differnet look, bit has held up well.
I like the look of the Mahogany, and it is easier to wrok with than teak,which isn't kind to either planer knivesor router bits.


----------



## oldmacnut (Dec 27, 2010)

Sheesh, Id use walnut and just clear the hell out of them, but thats just me.


----------



## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

The Chemicals they use in pressure treated wood is NOT for me!!! And I really Hate the color. It has to be totally dry to accept a finish properly and some people have had skin reactions to it. I avoid that stuff like the plaque. :thumbdown:


----------



## dat (Nov 11, 2010)

cypress, it will hold up in the weather without a finish and isn't real expensive it looks kinda like pine, will take most any finish, but will last even without a finish and with a grey weathered look



changed my bad spelling


----------



## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I think cypress and cedar are the preferred woods, teak is the high cost choice. 

I wouldn't even think about varnishing them unless you want a perpetual maintenance project. Even the best varnish will fail, peel and leave you with a big job each year. If you want to keep them looking nice, get or make covers.


----------



## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

>>>> "Does anyone have an opinion on using Mahogany or could suggest another hardwood that will stand up o the weather in natural unfinished state?"

The OP is asking for wood choices that will stand up without a finish.


----------



## MissionIsMyMission (Apr 3, 2012)

HowardAcheson said:


> >>>> "Does anyone have an opinion on using Mahogany or could suggest another hardwood that will stand up o the weather in natural unfinished state?"
> 
> The OP is asking for wood choices that will stand up without a finish.


Cypress!! Best I know of!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## dat (Nov 11, 2010)

HowardAcheson said:


> >>>> "Does anyone have an opinion on using Mahogany or could suggest another hardwood that will stand up o the weather in natural unfinished state?"
> 
> The OP is asking for wood choices that will stand up without a finish.


one reason I mentioned cypress, it will last for many many years unfinished, I believe cedar was mentioned also, both are great woods for leaving unfinished


----------



## J R in MO (Feb 2, 2010)

White Oak, or Bois 'D' Arc..(Hedge):thumbsup:


----------



## Howard Ferstler (Sep 27, 2007)

MissionIsMyMission said:


> The Chemicals they use in pressure treated wood is NOT for me!!! And I really Hate the color. It has to be totally dry to accept a finish properly and some people have had skin reactions to it. I avoid that stuff like the plaque. :thumbdown:


Wear a shirt and pants. :smile: However, I agree that the stuff needs to be completely dry to finish. I think that the questioner was asking about wood that would not be finished at all, however.

Also, I think there has been a change to standard pressure-treated chemicals lately, so maybe the stuff in use now is not as toxic as in the past.

Howard Ferstler


----------



## JCMeyersIV (Mar 8, 2012)

I agree with the post about PT. It just doesnt seem like a good idea for furniture seeing as its poisonous. Though the chemicals don't bother me as much as what it does to blades and bits! I also think, and dad thinks I'm nuts, the sawdust is sticky. When I use PT it seems like the dust sticks to my tools. I think the obvious way around this is to paint it. Make sure the moisture content is low!

Personally, I like cedar for outside projects. My only issue with it is, if you're not already aware, it splits WAY too easily. I find myself buying a lot of extra when I'm using cedar. I thought it was just me until a pro from the area informed me cedar is splintery and unpredictable. 

I saw someone mention mahogany. I think that too would be a fire choice. As long as you keep up on and make sure it's properly sealed and protected it will hold up great! Source? One of the big things in my home town is antique boats (home of the 1000 islands antique boat museum) and its not uncommon for the boats or decks to be made of mahogany. Our 25' Lyman boats decks are. 

Hope this long drawn out answer helps.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

The number one wood for outdoor furniture is teak. It needs nothing and will last generations. No rot checks or cracking. 

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


----------

