# Taper Jig Material Question



## DustyDan (Dec 21, 2020)

Ran across the plans for this taper jig for a table saw. Plans call for maple board. I would like to be a little more “thrifty”. Since the plan called for 1 1/2” thickness, the cheapest solution would be pine 2x6 and rip to size. That may be too cheap and the pine may not slide on the table smoothly. Next idea was using some of my stash of 1x6 stock and glue two boards together to get to the 1 1/2” thickness then rip to size. Third idea was to repurpose some 3/4” MDF with a laminate recovered from a cheap desk and glue another 3/4” MDF sheet to top and rip to size. The laminated surface should glide easily on my table but is the material too soft to use on a jig?

Suggestions for jig construction materials? Gluing boards to increase thickness a bad idea? Does it really not matter? Any of those ideas a grave mistake? Should I suck it up and get the maple per the plan?


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## NoNails (Jun 6, 2016)

Go ahead & use pine, I built the same a few years ago, used it a couple of times; I've since gone to using an "L- fence".


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## DustyDan (Dec 21, 2020)

Thanks, NoNails. Does this jig work well? Any other words of wisdom?


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## NoNails (Jun 6, 2016)

It worked OK. My issue with its design was being constrained in the rear with the "hook" limiting the length of the piece I want to cut. The "L-fence" is my preference, as its design does constrain the length and is easy to work with. If interested it can be googled.


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## epicfail48 (Mar 27, 2014)

No harm in using pine, itll slide as well as maple does once you slap a finish on it. Only real disadvantages to pine is are softness and potential for movements, its going to pick up dings and dents a lot faster than maple would, and itll be a bit more susceptible to movement with humidity swings. 

Honestly though, id just as soon use the MDF, its plenty strong enough for a jig, and will stay flatter too


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

I actually prefer an L-Fence or a Carrier Board to that design.
L-Fence








How to Use the L-Fence - FineWoodworking


Bob Van ****’s simple L-fence simplifies the cutting of rabbets, tenons, patterns, and much more. Learn how to make a versatile tablesaw L-Fence, here.




www.finewoodworking.com





Carrier Board, which can also be used to straighten a board.


Taper and Straight Edge Jig


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## DustyDan (Dec 21, 2020)

epicfail48 said:


> No harm in using pine, itll slide as well as maple does once you slap a finish on it. Only real disadvantages to pine is are softness and potential for movements, its going to pick up dings and dents a lot faster than maple would, and itll be a bit more susceptible to movement with humidity swings.
> 
> Honestly though, id just as soon use the MDF, its plenty strong enough for a jig, and will stay flatter too


Thanks for the advice on materials. Very helpful. Any advice on gluing boards to increase thickness? Edge gluing seems common but I rarely see gluing boards on top of each other. I’m wondering if there is a reason.


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## DustyDan (Dec 21, 2020)

FrankC said:


> I actually prefer an L-Fence or a Carrier Board to that design.
> L-Fence
> 
> 
> ...


Frank, thank you. Between your comments/video and NoNails comments it really looks like the L-Fence concept is a much more versatile option. I’ve never really used much double stickie tape for fear of complications with trying to remove adhesive residue, but I may be over thinking that. The video showing the use of sanding disks applied to the “guide” board to increase friction is an interesting concept.

Would the L-Fence work using a thinner, standard fence or would a saddle over the fence be an even better option?

As for the carrier board, if I’m picturing this correctly, the board being cut appears to be the height of the jig above the table. Seems like that would increase tear out and not be a clean cut. Am I seeing this right?


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

DustyDan said:


> View attachment 422450
> 
> 
> Ran across the plans for this taper jig for a table saw. Plans call for maple board. I would like to be a little more “thrifty”. Since the plan called for 1 1/2” thickness, the cheapest solution would be pine 2x6 and rip to size. That may be too cheap and the pine may not slide on the table smoothly. Next idea was using some of my stash of 1x6 stock and glue two boards together to get to the 1 1/2” thickness then rip to size. Third idea was to repurpose some 3/4” MDF with a laminate recovered from a cheap desk and glue another 3/4” MDF sheet to top and rip to size. The laminated surface should glide easily on my table but is the material too soft to use on a jig?
> ...


It does not matter how you make it as long as it safely accomplishes what you are trying to do. I design all my own jigs as I need them. Some I use once and throw away, some I keep. I make them as the need comes up for a specific task. That is the fun part of woodworking, problem solving. The more you do it, the better you become at it. I would suggest, if you are relatively new, look at a few samples, set them aside and design your own. It may not be what others would do, but it will be yours. Years ahead you can look back at it and see how far you have come.


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

I question why it needs to be 1 1/2" thick. The metal version that I have is only 3/4" thick.. 

George


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## DustyDan (Dec 21, 2020)

George, excellent question. I was just blindly following plans. I have no idea. Anyone else?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I do mine a little different. I've pulled the clamps as I dont use it that much.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

_"As for the carrier board, if I’m picturing this correctly, the board being cut appears to be the height of the jig above the table. Seems like that would increase tear out and not be a clean cut. Am I seeing this right?"_

With a carrier board the base runs beside the blade so in effect you have a zero clearance cut on the material fastened to the board.

As for 2" material for the original design my thoughts are that it allows for a larger hinge to be used to join the two parts.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

If your talking about mine there is no tear out...


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

Jigs, especially things like sleds, are best made of sheet material like plywood or MDF because they are more stable than solid wood.

Personally I don't like that particular type design as I don't think the wood is secure. I like ones where you can clamp the wood to the sled and has adjustable blocks.

Check out some other taper jigs where the wood is securely mounted on top of the jig with clamps. If you can find the one Steve Latta uses, its a good one.


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## gmercer_48083 (Apr 9, 2016)

I personally don't like the hinge type, which was my original type (made with pine). I think they are dangerous... if they drift toward the blade as you use it. besides nothing holding what you are cutting.

I prefer the carrier type with adjustable hold downs. It can be used with two hands and can be made wide enough to keep your hands far away from the blade, and can be guided by the fence or guided by the miter slot. The carrier type prevents tearout on the taper because the part you are saving is on the jig and the fall off part (waste) has the tearout. It's kinda works like a zero insert plate in your table saw because the blade is exactly flush with the jig. Mine is made with 1/2" mdf.


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## DustyDan (Dec 21, 2020)

Thank you all for the good ideas. I like all of these jigs. The versatility of the L-Fence is pretty cool. But the taper method basically uses a large push block which looses some of the control. The carrier board with the toggle hold down looks secure, but limits the size of wood. I now see why one of the first replies was that jigs need to be made with the specific project in mind and either saved or scrapped after the project. I’m probably confused because I was looking at making a universal jig and in reality I need to wait until I have a specific need. For table legs I think I will go with the carrier design with the hold down. The L-Fence will make its way into my shop, too.


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## DustyDan (Dec 21, 2020)

One last related unanswered question...... some of these ideas recommended using double sticky tape. Is there a residue problem with that? I fight with price stickers sometime and dread the thought of doing that on purpose.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I'm not much for the 


DrRobert said:


> Jigs, especially things like sleds, are best made of sheet material like plywood or MDF because they are more stable than solid wood.
> 
> Personally I don't like that particular type design as I don't think the wood is secure. I like ones where you can clamp the wood to the sled and has adjustable blocks.
> 
> Check out some other taper jigs where the wood is securely mounted on top of the jig with clamps. If you can find the one Steve Latta uses, its a good one.


Only difference between mine and his is his is adjustable which don't want and mine rides in the slot versus using the fence. Riding on the fence is risky. But I may be wrong I didn't watch the video..


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

You have to experiment with double sided tape, different brands have different properties, some have less strength, but are still adequate, so are easier to remove cleanly.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Taper jig or straight line jig, they are both the same. Mine has a base of 1/4" Masonite to reduce the height off the saw table. I reinforce it with a 3/4" X 3" strip of Oak away from the cut on the far right side and that's what rides on the fence. A comment was made that a jig that rides on the fence is "risky", no more so than ripping any board accurately. It's the operator that may be at fault, not the jig. 
Here's mine, it's 8 ft long and there 2 others that are shorter:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

It is risky. Ripping a board, in a jig, using clamps trying to keep it on the fence is more risky than a jig that rides in a slot that doesn't have to ride against the fence and stays in place.

It's your shop do as you please...


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I don't find it risky because the board is securely clamped to the jig, and I mean securely. Come on by my shop, I'll demonstrate my jig. Did see that huge pile of straight lined boards on the left? All perfect, not any issues. What's the risk you see? Not keeping against the fence? Isn't that the same as a normal rip operation. Can you explain the "risks"?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Can your jig come off the fence?


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## DustyDan (Dec 21, 2020)

Right now I don’t really have the option to use miter slots since I have a Craftsman table-saw with those goofy t-slots. I will most likely upgrade to a hybrid and with normal miter slots.

I do worry with any rip cut about kickback. So I do understand the concern. This will be something I will need to pay close attention to since my current saw has the rifing knife and kickback paws all one unit combined with the plexiglass blade shield. Any thin cuts like a taper often present issues with the paws, so I may have to remove it to use with any jig.

i enjoyed the banter. I love hearing different opinions.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Yes, of course, that's why I mentioned that it's the same as a normal ripping operation. That also means you can adjust the fence to make your cut any width you need very easily. This allows your to save material and allows you to refresh the edge against the blade for making a zero clearance cut, if that's necessary? And, as posted just above If you don't have the standard miter slots, it's still going to work just fine. It's not dedicated to any size or type of miter slot. And I find it just really convenient to use and store with a flat bottom. However, it's a personal choice as you say as long as the results are satisfactory/straight.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

As I thought. That you...


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

woodnthings said:


> Taper jig or straight line jig,
> View attachment 422489


The thing that looks unsafe to me, is the 1/4" gap between the table top and the wood being cut. Granted, you only have to apply pressure to the jig, but nothing supporting the cut piece just seems "tippy".
Just an observation, not a judgement.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

That's exactly why I used only 1/4 " thick base, cut the off fall doesn't have that far to fall. And if it's a 5 footer, the cut end is already drooping and resting on the saw table from gravity. That jig works and works really well. I'm a bit of a safety nut, so I ain't takin' any unnecessary chances, especially when it comes to making multiple operations like ripping a slew of boards as shown. You wouldn't believe how easy and fast it is to clamp .... rip .... and unclamp, those raggety edge boards.


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