# Filling gaps in an end grain cutting board



## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Hey everyone!

I recently started in on a couple more cutting boards, and decided to try some with Maple and Cherry instead of the Maple and Walnut I normally do. It's not nearly as bold as the walnut ones, but I still like the look of it.

Anyway, one of the cherry pieces had a small chip in it, and I had planned to locate this portion where the cutout for the handle would be, but of course I rushed the glue up and placed it smack dab in the middle of the board. I was also using my Router Planing Jig and while flattening the board, I exposed a couple of other spots that need to be filled as well.

Luckily, I had enough sense to make sure that these issues would end up on the bottom side of the board, and with the handles that I rout out of the bottom make this a one sided board. The recipients (it will be a wedding gift for our friends) will most likely not be cutting anything on this side, but I want to err on the side of safety and make sure I don't use anything toxic or not food grade.

My first through was to just mix some cherry saw dust with some TBII and fill the holes that way. I always hear about epoxy, but have no experience using it. I'm curious if this would be an appropriate project to experiment with it, and if so, what type I should be using and where to get it. If neither of those options are very good, I would appreciate any advice you have for me.

This was a very small knot with no hole before the board was flattened.








This is the chip I meant to place in what would become the void for the handle.








This is a small hole that was only a blemish before flattening.








Also, the board will be finished with a mineral oil/paraffin wax blend that I make myself.

Thank you in advance!

Sean


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you are going to mix dust with a titebond glue it would be better if you used titebond III. A two part epoxy would also be a good product. Be sure to get the slow set epoxy as it will take a lot of stiring to mix sanding dust with it and may start to harden before you get it applied.


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## sawdustfactory (Jan 30, 2011)

I've used sawdust and TB3 to do exactly that and it works great.


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## Midlandbob (Sep 5, 2011)

That one looks to be a rea of pinky wood in the cherry sapwood. You could tighten it up with CA or use a low viscosity epoxy like west system that would wick into the cracks and weak wood to firm it up and seal it off.
Fine sawdust and TB will fill the gap but does not penetrate well. It it's the bottom, I might route out the small area, clean it up with chisels and put in an end grain heartwood inlay. 
You might even be able to cut out a dado including the defect and insert a matching end grain patch- done well it would be all but invisible.
You probably want it quick and simple. A gift deserves the best.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks Steve and sawdust! Why TBIII over the TBII? I'm not doubting y'all's advice, I'm just curious as to why the 3 in this situation.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Titebond II is water resistant where Titebond III is waterproof. It will hold up better to being washed. Even if it doesn't come out the titebond II could swell up a little making a lump.


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## captainawesome (Jun 21, 2012)

Steve Neul said:


> Titebond II is water resistant where Titebond III is waterproof. It will hold up better to being washed. Even if it doesn't come out the titebond II could swell up a little making a lump.


Thank you Steve, that is good to know. I'll pick up some TBIII on my way home today to make the repair. Do most people use the 3 for cutting board glue ups? Or is it more important to use it here simply because it will be exposed on the surface and not between the pieces? 

I'm glad I posted this issue. I'm learning a lot about glue that I really needed to know! Thank y'all!


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## SlapHappy Drums (Jan 9, 2013)

I'd inlay a slice of dowel rod.


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