# A gun stock, my first wood refinishing project



## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Good day,


My father bought me a .22 single shot rifle when I was a kid. I really beat the thing up over the years, and 30 years later, I saw the condition of the furniture and I was appalled. 

The wood is a hard Walnut. So very beautiful. I have spent several months now, on and off, sanding it down to a final 400 grit. I am very sorry that I did not take "Before" pictures before I started sanding.

I have spent as many months sanding as I have researching. I feel that the general consensus is that walnut needs to be a dark finished wood. But, I really want the tiger striping, and the beauty of the wood to stand out, so I wanted as light as possible. 

The wood I have is almost red in color, I couldn't believe how much better it looked without the factory finish removed. It was like painting over the Mona Lisa with lime green. Ok maybe not.

But... after conferring with people who finish gun stocks for a living, watching videos, reading articles and looking at pictures, I had the technique I was going to use (A stain, then some Polyurethane) down. 

I gave the receiver and barrel to an exceptional gunsmith I take my guns to (Byrd's gunsmithing) and finally picked it up a day or so ago. As a last bit of input, I asked him how I should finish it. He told me just to use Berchwood Casey Tru-Oil and steel wool 0000.

Instantly I knew he was on to something, so I researched it, and I liked what I saw. 

I went shopping all day today, and went all over the place trying to find it. Walmart, home depot, Ace, the Market in town, a gun store, lowes, etc. I finally called Big 5 and they had it! $5.99 was a good price.

So I sanded it some more, just to be sure. I also repaired my air compressor to blow the stocks off, when I discovered that a compressor with too much oil in the crankcase and intake will also spew oil on your precious furniture.

Then came more sanding, but not too much more, to get the oil speckles off. I always thought oil-less compressors were good for nothing, but now I realize they are probably invaluable to woodworkers.

Anyway, a good wiping down with a clean T-Shirt did a great job.

Another gunsmith had said he applied it with his finger directly to the stock, so I tried that. 

The Tru-Oil goes on like an oil, but becomes steadily tackier and tackier. However, it was extremely easy to put on, I was surprised. I also rubbed it in, with the grain, as good as I could. 

As soon as I had both pieces covered, I knew I made the right choice. The tiger striping is vivid, just how I wanted it. It is a light color, but not overly bright. 

It was literally exactly what I imagined in my minds eye it should have been all along, once I saw it all sanded down. 

Some pics ready to oil:














































Here are a few pics of the oiled, one coat only, furniture set. I do not think my cell phone camera does it justice, but it is absolutely beautiful on the raw walnut. 




























I will continue to document the future coatings with the Tru-Oil. 


Thanks for looking.


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

It took quite a bit longer than 2 hours for the stuff to dry, and it is still not totally dry, I think my first coat was a bit thick. 

I buffed it with steel wool, I guess I should have waited, but it didn't really do "anything". 

Now that I am able to handle the wood I can watch the tiger striping change in the light as I move it. It is so beautiful to see it like a hologram!


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I've never been able to get Tru oil to dry in two hours. I tend to leave it sit over night. That stuff works great though, I love it. Much better than polyurethane. Ive heard some custom gunsmith actually mix BLO, Tru Oil and Shellac to get a more brilliant finish. 

Stock looks great by the way.


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## woodsman1031 (May 31, 2010)

Wolfmangk,

I have used tru oil on some knife handles and it really warms up the grain. Another thing you might do is put on a coat of furniture wax and wipe it down. Water will bead on it.

It looks great. Show us some pics when you put it back together.

Tommy


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

What do you think about automotive wax?

2nd coat:























































2nd coat, white background:



















And, then hitting the 2nd coat with 0000 steel wool:



















3rd coat:




















I wish I had a better camera. This wood is looking fantastic!


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

About how long should I wait between coats? I am letting it dry overnight. Is this necessary?


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

I let Tru-oil sit overnight between coats. I can't ever seem to get it to dry in a few hours, no matter how thin I apply it. If it is a little bit sticky it gets fingerprints or the steel wool gets stuck. I use automotive buffing compounds, swirl mark removers, and wax on all my fine finishes from shellac, lacquer, to tru oil. 

You can get Tru Oil shiny, but not nearly as shiny as lacquer. It is a whole lot stronger though.


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*About oil finish*

I have used tru-oil many times and as was noted you need to wait at least 24 hours between coats. One trick I have used is hanging in a small closet with a 100 watt light in a lamp to gently warm the finish. You also must use at least 10 coats as it is very thin when it dries. A completed finish will only be about .006" thick, that is thousandths of an inch! but not
to worry when set it is very hard!:thumbsup: Doug 

BTW This is a very informitive fourm!:thumbsup: DA

If you want a satin shine use some scratch-all, it is a automotive product that removes surface scratches in auto clear coat, it will put a nice luster on the finish! DA


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Oh, boy, well I might be taking it all off when I steel wool it! How hard should I rub the steel wool-I am getting a completely matte finish with no shine at all and I am pushing pretty hard. 

3rd coat dry, white background:



















After steel wool:



















4th coat:



















OK so I have to do at least 10 coats-that's 10 days, plus another 14 for drying? I have heard 4-6 is plenty, some people even do 3, I was thinking 5-6.


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*steel wool*

Will take all the shine off. The reason is that it is so thin that when you rub the finish with it, it is actually taking a thin (almost microscopic) slice
off the finish! So that is why you use it GENTLY! and it lets the next coat stick better. Also a side benefit is it will help "level" the finish. As you are putting it on it is filling the pores of the wood, so when you steel wool it the high spots get taken down, so as the coats build up, the finish will 
take on a certain "depth" if you will. It might just be me and although the stocks look good I think a light stain would have helped to bring out the 
grain a little better. Please don't take offense as none is meant, I look at wood a little different than a lot of people do. Im going to see if I can put a picture of my CZ452 special on here I refinished it, it is beech and I did a two tone stain and 11 air brushed coats of polyurethane,


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*As you*

When I first got this rifle it looked like someone had painted it with dark brown paint! That would not do. So as noted above I refinished it. I
think it looks better! I also installed an automation solutions adjustable sear as the trigger had about 3/32 of an inch of pre- travel (creep is what it is commonly called) and now it has zero creep a lighter trigger spring so
pull weight is about 20 ounces, 1and1/4th pounds. it will shoot 3/8ths to 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards, at 25 it will do one hole groups very easily!
If you would like to know more about CZ rifles go to rimfire central .com
they have all different kinds of rimfire weapons about any make you can think of they have a forum for them!:thumbsup: So what kind of rifle is this stock off of anyway? I never thought to ask that until now! Please pardon me! I was not trying to be rude! Let me know how you are getting along. And BTW you don't have to wait two weeks for it to dry,
it will be plenty dry in 3 to 4 days!:yes: Doug

You will be able to tell when it is dry by smell, when the oil smell is almost gone, it's dry! Make sense? DA


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

You only have to put on as many coats as you think look good. If you want complete grain filling, it takes a lot. 

Don't force that steel wool, thats not its intended purpose.


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

I really appreciate the help. Unfortunately with my 2 megapixel blackberry camera, taking pictures beyond this point might be pointless. Unless you guys want to keep seeing more. Can you see any difference?


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Hi wolf*

Hows it going? haven't checked on you in a couple of days, thought I would see how it was coming along. I saw in one of your posts you were getting a "matte" look when you steel wool the finish. This is not a bad thing but it is taking finish off when you do this! You must do this GENTLY! if your not careful you will cut through the finish to the wood! Not a good thing!As was posted above, to fill the pores does take a lot of coats. I didn't say it wasn't going to take some time! If you want to get the most from the finish, the more the merrier! I have seen my graddfather apply as many as 30 coats of linseed oil back in the day before they made 
this modern stuff. and that takes 2 to 3 days to dry! So we are talking about 3 months from start to finish! Of course this was on a presentation grade walnut stock on a pre 64 winchester in .270 and he was paid $500.00 in 1967 just for finishing the stock. That would be about $1500.00 today, but I must say it was the most beautiful stock I had seen at the time or have seen sense ! God only knows what the man that owned the rifle had invested in it, but it was more than I can imagine! Anyway there is one more thing I almost forgot, are you using a "tack" rag to wipe the stock down between coats? if not get one! As
the finish builds in thickness you must remove all traces of steel wool and dust as it will leave what look like little points in your finish! Then to even it out you would have to sand with 1000 grit paper and a sanding block th even the surface out! So get a tack rag if you don't have one.
My email is [email protected] If you have questions drop me a line
and I'll see if I can help you out, OK?:thumbsup: Doug BTW Yes I can see a difference in the finish!:yes:


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## Colt W. Knight (Nov 29, 2009)

Hell, most of the pics on my guitar build thread are blackberry photos.


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

I apologize, I din't get any pics of the 4th coat. I will get pics of the 5th coat. I am allowing it to dry overnight/2 days, not by choice, I am very busy. I am going lighter on the steel wool, and I am using a soft Tshirt to thoroughly wipe between brushes with the steel wool. I have also spilled 90% of the Tru-Oil! But what remains is enough to at least 12 more coats.


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## JohnK007 (Nov 14, 2009)

wolfmangk said:


> ....I have also spilled 90% of the Tru-Oil! But what remains is enough to at least 12 more coats.


Dang, I hate when that happens!!  I feel your pain. Been there, done that!


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Friends, I feel awful, I forgot to take pictures of the 4th coat. Instead, I can show pictures of the 3rd coat (Or was it the 4th coat, and I forgot pictures of the 5h??). The blackberry comment makes me feel hopeful. 























































Here is the latest, 5th coat, drying:



















In case anyone is wondering, the leather thing is a dog harness, and the wiry things are oscilloscope probes.


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Between coats*

When you steel wool the stocks, if you look at the grain you will see where there are "shiny" spots. these are the low spots in the grain of the wood. If you keep applying the finish and using the steel wool these will "fill"in, if you want to have a completely smooth finish, just take your time and keep going, and you will get there soon!:yes: Also, and this is very important! the T shirt is not enough to get all the steel wool "dust" off the
stocks! you must get some tack rags and use them! They are made to get all the small almost microscopic pieces of wool off the wood. Otherwise you will end up with "bumps in the finish! Can't have that! LOL! 
I think when you get to about ten coats you should be about done, then 
let it dry for a week or so and rub it with scratch-all and that should do the trick!:thumbsup: Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Thanks DA357MAG, you have been a huge help to me. Is it too late to use a tack rag now, after 5 coats? I have been using a sock to apply the Tru-Oil, and it seems to leave some lint in the finish. Is a tack rag the same as a microfiber cloth?


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Not the same*

A tack rag has a substance that is somewhat sticky, hence the name "tack" rag. and after 5 coats it's not too late to use one! Also from 
what I can see it is about time to wet sand the finish. Now don't freak out!, all you have to do is LIGHTLY wet sand with 800 grit paper and be sure to use a sanding block, I use a piece of paint stir stick about 4 inches long and wrap the paper around it. It is very important not to use too much pressure, if you do you will sand through the finish and then you will have to fix the sand through. All you are trying to do is "level the finish so
the pores in the grain aren't so apparent! I can see in the pictures that there are some deep pores, and if it were me I would want to lessen them
at least somewhat!:thumbsup: So far you are doing fine and if you switch
to tack rags and apply the finish with either cheesecloth or your finger (I
have done this many times, when done use cooking oil to disolve it and soap and water, and it is gone!) the cheesecloth is lint free, when you get done with a coat simply put the cloth in a zip-lock bag, get all the air out and it is ready for the next application when you are!cut a strip about 4 inches wide and 10 inches long, fold it into a two inch square and you are all set! You are in the home stretch now, these last 4 or 5 
coats will determine how your finish comes out! so get the right stuff to finish it correctly and you will have a finish that you will remember forever!:yes: Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Thanks again, DA. Where can I get cheesecloth and tack rags? I am on an *extremely* limited budget.


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Supplies like*

The tack rags and cheese cloth can be purchased at just about any store
like home depot, Lowe's, (that was where I bought mine was Lowe's). I 
only spent $4.00 for two tack rags and a package of cheesecloth. The
1000 grit sand paper can be bought in the same place and one six sheet
package cost about $3.00. You must remember this is a investment you will not regret, it will make the difference between a good finish and a outstanding one!:thumbsup: Doug

Remember when you sand, use a sanding block! this is very important! I just use a piece of a paint stir stick, you can
use anything that is not too heavy, and remember to sand LIGHTLY! DA


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

I picked up all of those things a Lowes, they were very cheap. So, I lightly sanded with the 1000 grit, but it took an entire sheet, because it got clogged real quickly. I used the tack rag, is it normal to leave a little tack on the wood? Regardless, it went pretty well, except now my Tru-oil has begun to coagulate! Instead of pouring out oil, it now pours out like watery Jello. I guess I have to buy more, but why is it doing this? 

It was very very difficult to remove the jelly from the stock, to wipe it all the way to an edge then remove it. However, in spite of all this, it is looking beautiful, almost holographic and 3 dimensional when I look it. It's a shame this cellphone is all I have, but trust me, it is looking great. 

Should I no longer use the steel wool and only use the sandpaper at this point?

Coat 6:


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Hi wolf*

The reason your sandpaper clogged up so fast was you weren't using water, you have to wet sand and that means you dip the paper in water frequently to keep it from clogging. Also when you sand do small areas at
a time, and overlap them. As for the tru-oil, if you leave the lid off for any
length of time, it will "skin over" in the jar. The only thing I can think of to 
thin it with would be mineral spirits, it is similar to paint thinner but is made for varnish and stuff like that. If you try this let me know how it works, when I use tru-oil I will pour a small amount into a separate container and
close the bottle ASAP! This is to keep what you are experiencing from happening! OK no you are not done with the steel wool, but you should be using 00 or 000 grade steel wool at this point. The sanding was to help level the finish, when you got done sanding did you see a lot of little shiny
spots on the finish? if you did, that was the pores in the wood! I keep thinking back on the oil, you will have to thin it before you can do much more!:huh: Either that or get more oil! I'm glad it's cheap!:laughing: So let me know what you do, if you have an old glass container that would work to see if mineral spirits would work.
So keep in touch,I will wait to see what the next post will be! LOL!


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Just to clear things up, let me ask you, I use the steel wool, then the tack rag, then the wet sand 1000 grit, then the tack rag, then the next coat of Tru-Oil?


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Your on*

The right track!you must remember that the wet sanding it to "level" the
finish, when you are done you don't need to use a tack rag, because it is still wet you just wipe it down with a dry cloth (lint free), and if you have any doubts, then go ahead and tack rag it! can't hurt. By now you should have somewhere around 8 or 9 coats, so you should only need 1 or 2 more. You must make the decision as to whether you want a gloss finish, a satin finish or a flat finish. For gloss just put one last coat on that
has no dust on the stock, let it dry and your done! for satin same thing as gloss but you lightly rub the finish with 0000 steel wool. After you "break"
the gloss, you then use the scratch-all I told you about. That will take any marks out that the steel wool may have left. For a flat finish, use 00
steel wool and break the shine on the finish until you see no gloss anywhere. No be careful! you can cut a hole in the finish very easy at this
point. Then use the Scratch-all to remove any wool marks, and remember
you want it flat so don't go crazy with the polish!:thumbsup: Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Sorry there have been no updates. I was blessed to get a part time job helping with some roofing in Arizona. After hat, I got a temp welding job (Putting up a fence/fab) and it has been two weeks, and now I am back in California. 

Just before I left, I put another coat on the wood. I researched the gelling issue with the Tru-Oil. One person suggested poking a needle sized hole in the tin foil, and storing it upside down. I did this, sored upside down and put it inside a peltier-junction fridge I bought used. 

When I came back, the peltier-junction fridge was very warm inside. It needed to be unplugged then plugged back in, but the moral is the Tru-Oil survived anyway, after 2 weeks. I put another coat on. Here are the pics:

Tru-Oil:




























Now I have a question. When I put the stock on the hanger, it looks entirely glossy, no flat areas. However, after drying for an hour or two, I can see a bunch of small areas where it suddenly appears flat, like I had hit it with the sandpaper. 

Why is this? The good news is that with the steel wool and sandpaper treatment, the valleys are gradually decreasing. I think 3-4 more coats like this and they will be gone. 

I was point-shooting the gun (After shooting a rattlesnake that didn't rattle, 3' away from me under a quad!!) today and I am anxious to get the furniture back on, but I have come this far, you know?


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Here is the next coat, but sanded first:



















Then the next coat:



















And then the coat after that one:




















So far, so good. Maybe another 3-4 coats, probably 3. It's looking pretty good.


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Hello,


Here is the next coat:



















And after wet sanding:



















And now for something totally different:










Snakes I've skinned and killed all on this property. Save one which was run over and not by me (The gopher snake on the left, which was unfortunate) and another which was killed by my neighbor (And also skinned by him too). I use antifreeze for tanning and it works well. I give the meat to a friend who likes it.


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## hawglet (Feb 15, 2010)

wolfmangk said:


> Thanks DA357MAG, you have been a huge help to me. Is it too late to use a tack rag now, after 5 coats? I have been using a sock to apply the Tru-Oil, and it seems to leave some lint in the finish. Is a tack rag the same as a microfiber cloth?


A tack rag/cloth kind of looks like a close knit cheese cloth but is covered in a waxy feeling substance. It should be used between coats of nearly anything that you don't want dust, debris, or lint (from your cotton applicator) on the surface of the next coat. You will have to wait until the coat is nearly out of the tacky stage before tacking it with most finishes, however it will drastically improve the final product. Sold in most automotive stores as well as many general finishing departments. After 5 coats it may not be too late although may have been better to start after the first coat.


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Here is the next coat:



















A friend came by and wanted to see the wood on the gun, so I humored him and attached the stock. Wow, just... wow. Stunning. It actually makes the gun look bad. He said the gun itself deserves to be refinished now. He said he finish significantly increases the value of the gun but I told him I would never sell it. I said i wanted my father to be proud of the job I did. It is absolutely gorgeous. 

I am on the last 1-2 coats of sanding. 

Because the Tru-Oil seems to go on OK, but later show flat spots if I put i on too, thin, I will do one or two coats without sanding or prep, just to fill in the flat spots. 

Also, a tip for anyone trying this, don't bother with the cloth to apply it, just use your fingers. This is because you can start to feel the Tru-Oil go from liquid to start becoming tacky. If I don't use this method of application and rubbing it in, I definitely see it later on. You also have more control over the thickness of the coat.

A huge thanks to DA357MAG for his invaluable help with this. My friend was stunned by how it is looking, he said it didn't even need another coat. He said this is the type of finish you see on a Weatherby.


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

What are the thoughts on putting on a coat without sanding just to get it evenly coated again? I ask because it seems like no matter what I try, it just won't coat the entire surface. Maybe it is filling in all the small scratches, etc? You can see the spots I am talking about, they are flat, but when I hung it to dry, it was completely covered with Tru-Oil.


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Nobody has any thoughts on the coat without sanding?


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Hey wolf*

I put a response in email, must have got lost! OK at this point after looking at the pics up to just above the "flat" spots are where you have sanded through the finish. This is nothing to be too concerned about, you
will just have to spend some time to fix them! Heres how. Looking at the pics, I would say you are done sanding, it looks like the pores are filled in
nicely. so LIGHTLY steel wool the wood with 0000 wool to "break" the surface of the finish then tack it and put a coat on. When the flat spots start to show, put oil just on them for this coat only. Not a lot as it will run! Let the coat dry a day. When dry you may see small ridges where you put the extra oil, but not to worry,it is easy to fix! Lightly buff the wood with 0000 again and tack again, another coat, do you see any flat spots?
If so do the same thing you did the last coat and fill them in! You will do this usally 3to4 coats and the "flats" will be filled in. Now if you have any 
"ridges" around the flat spots, you CAREFULLY take a piece of used 1000
grit and wet the paper Then buff the high spots just like you were buffing a shoe after polishing, take your time! You don't want to sand through again! OK the high spots are gone and the flat spots are fixed.
Now you must decide how you want the finish to look. Myself I like a satin finish so after the fix is done I apply a coat to make sure all is good, if there are small spots,I don't worry about them. Let it dry a day,
wool and tack, another coat, and that should seal the wood completely!
One more time,buff with wool, tack and apply, let dry. Now you should have a shiny finish that is nice and smooth. If you want leave it that way, although most older firearms had a satin finish at most on them,
but it's up to you!:yes:. So lets see when you get it done!:thumbsup:

BTW when you get all the oil on that you are going to put on, before you do any buffing , let it set in a warm place for a week or so! This
will allow the oil some time to cure and harden so when you do finish the finish, it will be in the right hardness to look good! Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

DA357MAG, I couldn't have done this without you. Thank you kindly for your time. 

I went ahead (Before your post, and the Email never came through!) and did exactly what you said: I just LIGHTLY buffed it with the steel wool, tack ragged it, then put on another coat. I applied it last night, but I am waiting until tomorrow morning, because I need it to be done in the mornings when I have time. 

I was wondering what those flat spots were. 

My friend, what would happen if I just coated the entire thing just steel wooling it first to cover the flat spots to avoid high areas?


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Hi wolfman*

You could at this point just buff the whole stock and once again, LIGHTLY!
LOL! Now when you put this last coat on ,did you have any flat spots? If
you did I would guess they would be very small! This is a good sign, it means the thin spots are filling back in. That being the case when you get a coat with no flats, you buff that coat and do one more and YOU ARE DONE!!:laughing::thumbsup: Doug


BTW That last picture of the stock looks awesome! Good job!:thumbsup: DA


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Hey wolfman!*

Doug here, it's been four days and haven;t heard anything, whats going on? been busy and couldn't work on the stock? You just do what you have to and it's all good!:thumbsup: Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Hello,

I have discovered that thin coats show all sorts of dust and etc. A tack rag is great, but I think my area is just dusty. 

I am having a problem with specks showing up. They are hard to see and it might almost be the age of the Tru-Oil itself?

Unless you really look closely though, the finish looks and feels absolutely magnificent.

This last coat I used 2500 grit sandpaper just to see what it would do. It turned out ok, but I was hoping for a flawless sheen, like the clearcoat on a brand new car after it is waxed.

Any ideas?


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

da357mag said:


> Doug here, it's been four days and haven;t heard anything, whats going on? been busy and couldn't work on the stock? You just do what you have to and it's all good!:thumbsup: Doug


Doug my friend how are you? 

My laptop has been shutting down suddenly and I haven't been able to use it. I am doing these posts entirely on my blackberry curve.

Coming up in a week or so I will have two more weeks of work in Arizona hopefully it will be done by then so it will be drying!


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Ok so I sanded with the 2000 or 2500 grit sandpaper then applied another thicker coat of Tru-Oil. Well, it appears as if the dust and dots that are appearing are directly from the Tru-Oil bottle, which is stored upside- down in the fridge. The bottle of Tru-Oil has been open for a month now! It has not coagulated, but I am worrying about these specks. I may have to buy a third bottle.


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## TexasTimbers (Oct 17, 2006)

Wolfman it's really looking good. I admire your discipline and sticking with it like you have. Liked the "And now for something totally different" pics too. 

Although in the beginning looking at all those sideways and upside-down pictures gave me vertigo and made me a little queasy.


:rockon:


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Hey Wolf*

Just a quick note, as I said before if you put your last coat on and let it dry, then lightly buff it with the 0000 steel wool, this will take off the spots you are talking about. it will dull the finish somewhat, but a little auto wax will give you a nice satin shine that although not a full gloss shine the tru oil looks better with this type of finish!:thumbsup: Try it, you'll like it! Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

I dropped it last night and put a dent in the bottom of my pristine stock. 

It is Gods way of keeping me humble.

So I tried squirting out the Tru-Oil to release the sediment. It worked, but there are still dots in the fluid.

Any ideas on how to make it as shiny and smooth as a pane of glass? 

I have already lost count of the coats I put on it I might as well go all the way.


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Hi wolf*

If you can see solids in the Tru oil, the only way you are going to get a glass finish is to get some new oil! the "spots are the pieces in the oil sticking to the stock, so there is no other way. Also when you put the new oil on you need to have a dust free place to hang the wood so you don't get dust spots. In the past I have used a closet for final finishing
just for this reason. What I do is take everything out of the closet and vacuumed the floor and walls, (shop vac) then after 10 minutes or so, use
a squirt bottle and misted the walls to keep any dust down. Then put your oiled parts in and close the door and let them dry. To speed up the drying
you can set a lamp in the closet with a 100 watt bulb and this will warm
the wood and speed drying time by about 50%, the faster it dries, the less
chance there is of getting spots! After it's dry and cured about a week, 
there is a product called Howard's Feed N Wax, you can get it at home depot or Lowes, (I think) and you can use it to polish out the stock.
Then send me some pics!:thumbsup: my email is [email protected],com
should be about done, your in the home stretch now! Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

I went out and bought more steel wool, 1500 grit sandpaper, and a fresh bottle of Tru-Oil. 

When I sanded it (lightly) I could see the granules of whatever it was sticking up as a matte spot, with shine around it. 

I steel wooled it, then lightly wet sanded it until the spots were sanded down, then applied a fresh coat of Tru-Oil from the new bottle.

I just don't understand it, it seems as if it is happening even with the new bottle. 

Even when examined somewhat closely the finish looks beautiful. But when you look real close, it looks like it was done in a dusty barn. 

So I took a small cabinet and vacuumed it out, and cleaned it out real well. 

But it isn't the air that's doing it, it appears as if it is coming right from the bottle. Maybe I should try the cheesecloth again?

Can tack cloth go bad? It seems that if I wipe the stock with the tack rag the tack rag makes the stock "tacky". Is that normal?


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Tack rags*

Will get "loaded up" after a certain amount of time and that could very well be where your problem is coming from! I would suggest using a fresh rag.
As for the "tacky" feel that is normal and is nothing to worry about. the benefits outweigh any negative aspects you may encounter! As for the cabinet, a very good idea! Just remember when you get done with your application to put it in the cabinet ASAP!I think at this point to get rid of the little "bumps" you are going to have to polish them out. You can get any kind of automotive clear coat polish and have at it! You will keep the shine, and get the smoothness you are looking for That should do the trick if you want to keep a high gloss on the stock! Let me know how it comes out, OK? Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

My laptop is destroyed so it has been hard to go online. I am typing from my blackberry. 

I bought another cheesecloth and tack rag. 

I am very happy to say that I can wipe off any specks that appear and I wonder why I went back to applying it with my fingers. 

I will work on getting pics but I am on the right track!


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*The high gloss*

That you see on some of the rifles is done when the oil has filled the grain and it is then wet sanded with 2000 grit paper to completely smooth the finish. It is then clear coated for a high gloss. The clear can be enamel or
epoxy which is a lot harder when cured and harder to use! I have done epoxy finishes in the past and don't care for them!:wallbash: They are a pain in the butt as it has to be measured and thinned to a water consistency, then sprayed at room temperature. One trick I did learn about it is between coats you keep it in the fridge and it won't cure! When it is time for the next coat, take it out and let it warm up and it is good to go! One thing about it is that it only takes 3 or 4 coats to do the trick! The best source for clear epoxy paint would be a major hobby shop,
and they can help you get set up with a inexpensive air brush and pressure kit. If you want that super shine,this is the best way to do it!:thumbsup::yes: Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

Hello DA357MAG! 

I have been thinking, and this rifle is going to be used in the field, a LOT. I have read about other finishes, and once I get this rifle completed I won't have the time really to do what I am doing now. 

I really believe the best thing to do is to get the Tru-Oil as nice as I can and then go with it. 

Where I am going to be hunting the finish isn't gong to be babied I can assure you of that!


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

I was blessed to see a beautiful set of furniture today. 

I tack ragged the heck out of both pieces. Steel wooled it, and some light sanding to get rid of some large specks. 

I also bought an ionic pro at a garage sale for $6 and it seems to get rid of a lot of dust. 

This is difficult to do on a Blackberry!





































Thanks!


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

*Your done!!*

Hi wolf!
Well looking at the pics, I don't know what else you need to do! You have done an excellent job! I couldn't have done any better myself. Now you know how it is done so if you get a scratch or ding you can just fix it!:yes: Now put it together, and have fun shooting it, and enjoy the compliments you are sure to receive! Once again, good job:thumbsup: Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

DA, you have been like a good friend throughout this process. If you are ever in the High Desert of California I'd love to meet you. 

Things I have learned:

Cheese cloth wears out quickly. Never reuse it, and use a fresh cut for each piece of furniture. 

Tack rag is indispensable.

It is worth it to take the little extra time to sand between coats to fill in the wood grain. 


An air purifier is essential in dusty areas. 


:thumbsup:


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## da357mag (Jun 1, 2010)

If you are talking about the Mojave desert, you probably know where Bullhead city is. I lives there too many years! I like it here in Oregon, it's GREEN! LOL! so whereabouts do you live? I'm in Medford just north of the Cali
border. To make this easier my email is [email protected] Drop me a line if they let you have my address!:laughing: Doug


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

I woke up today and thought that I should add pics of the assembled gun!

The forend grip had a lot of Oil in it so the screw had a hard time going in and I will have to work on the threads. 





































I did sand the stock too much, the buttplate is slightly larger, but that is OK. The finished result is amazing.


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## wolfmangk (May 28, 2010)

I wanted to provide an update on the gun. It has not gotten much use, because one scope I put on it broke, another scope I got new is at the upper limits of adjustment so it has to be taken back, and there still is no front sight for it. But I put it together and photographed it for everyone here.

I bought a broken Sony DSC-H1 camera for $35 and fixed it, and that is why the pictures are so good, especially the macros. 

Special thanks to Doug for his help.


Enjoy


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## woodsman1031 (May 31, 2010)

WOW!!! that stock looks great. I am a fan of tru oil and formby's tung oil, but I like to steel wool it down 2 or 3 times and wax it for a light sheen. I must say that I think I may go the extra mile next time, like you and get a finish like that, because it looks AWSOME. 

GREAT JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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