# 1922 AWWM 16" - "Buzz" #1 jointer restoration



## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,..
I started this restoration back in March of 2011.....it's been and on again- off again project, work keeps getting in the way...., revamping the shop, restoring 2 machines- the 1947 MOAK 32" band sas and the 1929 Oliver 88D saw bench,..also i started the restoration on the Oliver 117-A ( VFD and the carrige assembly for the castors)...etc,etc,etc,......

Sooooo,.
With that being said,...

I thought It was time to get back on the AWWM 16" jointer and try and get her finished. Here is the link to how this started and what's been done up to now: http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95169 . Not much happened today, just some cleaning, few casts we're primed..and a sap tumor that was growing on the outside wedge lip underside...
















































































































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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Moving along....










More to come..





B,


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Ooohhh that's going to look great! What the heck is a sap tumor? That Oliver lathe has me drooling!


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Figure of speech.....

It's buildup in one area from planning boards in the same location, resin/sap & dust all in a hard clump....

It's in one of the pictures......



B,


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I saw it just hadn't heard the term before. Looks like it didn't stand a chance. :smile:

It's great to see these guys come back to life. Wish I had space for some of that big old iron, but I'm happy with the human sized old iron I do have. (If 40 yrs can be called "old" for iron.)


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## ACP (Jan 24, 2009)

I'm gonna be following this one too. Love seeing these threads!


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
 Today I hung........... "The pig" ,and worked on the union from the legs to the main base. The process of masking/buffing all the parts was moving along as well, there is plenty of detail work now. I have more to go but it's getting close to having all the parts ready for the final hvlp shoot. Then it's time for some " Frankenstien fabrication"..............

















































B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Little more progress........


















































Now all I have to do is remember how this all goes back together..........?


B,...


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
I made a little more progress, the infeed control wheel was ground and buffed .......













































The raise & lower mechanical assembly was installed.......





























Set the inner and outer wedge beds on the frame and mounted the brackets for the in/out feed adjustments.....




























The out feed adjustment wheel was mounted temporarily to check the mechanicals......










Continued....


B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Finally set the out feed wedge bed in place , all went very well.......










Then the in feed wedge......


















Some pictures of the ends.....




























Not completely assembled, but I am gaining some ground on her......







































B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
Worked on the springboard lever assembly today,it's working like a cream puff. Polished the washers/bolts for the Wedge bed side plates and have that all together. Noticed something about those guide plates.....very sensitive to pressure from the fastners. I went through the process of adjusting every bolts tension and when i was done,I was in awe how smooth the wedge beds move.............both the in & out are coplanner from one another and dips on the end of the outfield table as it is supposed to. So far- so good.......


Just a few pics.....iPad ....






























B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well.....
Worked on the "Peter" guard assembly, wire wheel to the mechanicals - light polish,assembly and the installation. Started one of the Frankenstien operations and fabricated the dust plenum. 12 ga sheet metal bent to a flared U shape ,cricket plates welded at the ends ,the outlet cut out and welded in place, angle iron welded on all 4 ends,tapped the main body- 1/4 x20 'painted and installed.....












B,


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Hey, that looks great, like it was meant to be there!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

...! :smile:


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I was at my friend's shop, saw this*

It looks a lot like yours. I think it's a Porter...?


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Yes,
Similar shape but there are some different aspects,......the incline is less steep on the wedges- type "C" . The double leg Does not look like a porter in that picture......that actually looks Lke the leg base on a 20C lathe.....But that is "The Porter" and it may just be the angle the picture was taken......

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=4586

Oliver use to make thier jointers using the wedge bed design at one time and switched over to to what they are known for-square end pedestal base.

Is this yours....? Very nice jointer :thumbsup:


B,


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Thanks*

No not mine, but this fellow has a bunch of old iron. You can just see the top of a 3" or 4" resaw in the background. The other thing might be a multiple spindle mortiser....? Anyhow, he make some of the best raised panel doors coming out of Michigan, inclusing those to the Governor's Office in Lansing, Mich. He uses laminated maple cores, epoxied together with 1/4" skins of various woods. All machines are 3 Phase with a RPC. Sorry for the side track on the thread, yours looks fabulous! :thumbsup:


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Not a problem,....
I don't see those come up on the market that often, it's actually rare to see them come up for sale. Very well built joiners IMO.......:thumbsup: MOAK is another manufacturer that made the large wedge bed jointers and there are several of us on the Mothership that think they were using the same parts with just some little minor differences. ......what happened back in the day and who made what.........makes you wonder?

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=10415


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,.....
Tapped the inside frame wall 3/8" x16 for the Brass sleeve pillow block bearing assembly for motor carriage. The knuckle sets in a pocket on the opposite wall,with a. 1/2" threaded rod/knob adjustment to raise/lower the motor (belt tension/adjustment/replacement).I still have to install the tension spring between the carriage and the knuckle plate (spring sleeve - threaded rod) and some minor details , but .....it's starting to come together.....





























































































B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Finished the motor , DC system.......




























































































Few more...




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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

More pics....





























































































Few more...



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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

More snaps.....































































































Last few pics....



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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Last few pics,,..














































Cutter head is next..




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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*that's sweet*

+1 Very Nice Work!


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
The Cutter head is all finished and installed...
The belt cage is next , ...




























































B,


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Beautiful Machine!!!:thumbsup:


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,...
Fabricated the carriage for the castors .....
Picked up the material for the belt cage....
That's next, ........











































































B,


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*3 legger into a 4 wheeler!*

I like it. I've used the same "low boy" system on all my mobile bases. I've got a 1600 lb 8ft metal brake that on the same concept, a 12" Powermatic table saw and others.
 

A very smart fellow I worked with at GM said..."There is nothing inherently wrong with the design of a 3 wheeled vehicle that the addition of the 4th wheel wouldn't fix."


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Nice job on your base Bill....:thumbsup: yea, yu want to keep these machines low to the ground, and cnatalievering the base for the castors is the only way...

That single toe carriage is allowed to move left/right to allow for leveling , which was the purpose of that design to begin with. 1/4" movement on either side. 

I like fabricating and design work......


Very well done Bill,,,,,:thumbsup:



B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
This cage was a little time consuming,....point , pull the trigger,move 1"- repeat process. I decided to make the cage swing open for a belt change. I still have to finish the other side, lock mechanism.....and of coarse- some green paint . 



























































B,


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Nice guard! :thumbsup:


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Thank you,


Ok,
Finished the belt cage,....moving onto the tables .....



































































B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
Finished the tables and set them in place, where do I get these bolts for the gibs?...I want to replace all of them.






























































































B,


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Mc Master Carr?*

http://www.mcmaster.com/#square-head-set-screws/=m0ut8d

They are probably not a high strength grade ...I donno. If keeping the authentic look matters, then you wouldn't want to use Allen or socket head machine screws. Looking great regardless!


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

Pry your wallet open for those. You can get them from bobby sax at woodworkers tool works. 

If you just want new ones just to have new ones, it is silly expense that really has no merit on function.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

B,


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## WarnerConstInc. (Nov 25, 2008)

There is that meaningless FedEx commercial again.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
I went and picked up a bag of 50 (3/8"x16x3/4") grade 5 case hardened bolts. $12.78. Mounted them on the Jacobs chuck on the 20C. I used my grinder mounted to the carriage ,(no metal cutting bits for the tool post). I put a cutting disk on the grinder , parallel to the head on the bolt. Moved the second tier in to cut the buttons and then cleaned up the surface on the button with the face of the metal cutting disk. I cut the length on the lathe as well, used a nut on the bolt as a jig for the height,then installed it in thenjacobs chuck and moved the metal cutting disk inward for the cut. Took it over to the vise and filed the little nipple left over from the cut.


They work very well now and I feel better knowing its back the way it is supposed to be. There were some bolts with no buttons and they are there to seat in the shallow track of the cutter slot, some with a different size head, and some with some serious round over on the corners. I also re-tapped the threads on the lock plates ....,a had a few that were very difficult to get out .....































On to the fence......and some odd and ends,,,,,. 

B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
I finished the fence adjustment base and am getting ready to work on the fence. I still have to work on all the knobs and some minor details but it's coming along....





















B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Here is a short video for making the gib bolts....

Worked on the rear cutter guard,,,little tricky to figure out the mechanics with the fence when it's in the beveled position...,.but i was able to figure out the mechanism and finished fabricating the rear guard , just have to clean it all up and paint.








B,


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK I'm lost*

How do you make a square headed bolt on/in a rotating chuck?
I read your previous post about getting case hardened bolts.... etc. Were they carriage bolts and you just ground off the head down to the square portion? There was no before picture of what you started with, only old, and new gib bolts. What did you start with? 

Having just spent 3 hrs on a 13" South Bend lathe this afternoon, I know it only makes round stuff, not square and I knew that even before today. It can make square stuff round but not vice versa.... :blink:


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Post#38 Bill,...
They were square,(picture), I could not use the hex head bolts, not enough height on the head to mill out the button.

As far as making a square object, all be it a primitive method.....
I have made square heads on my lathe.....out of larger hex heads. 


Index plate (mounts on the rear of the lathe) grinder attached to the carriage,MCD metal cutting disk -perpendicular to the face of the bolt head,..., start at 0 on the index plate , cut, back off then 90, 180, and 270...


B,


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*OK I finally get it*

You started with square head bolts. You ground a "button" on the head by relieving the material while the bolt is turning, but just on the face leaving a small round portion. This is to bear against the opposite face on the slot where the knives go. Dang, that was easy but I finally get it. Thanx.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
Finished the rear guard, cleaned up the knobs, little paint....and a short video of how this rear guard works...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6e0wQtMm ... e=youtu.be


Pictures will be next...I'm multitasking at the moment......


B


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Here are the pictures....

















































B,


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Nice work on the guard B. that is a beautiful piece of machinery there.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Thank You Shop Dadl,
That guard......ahhhhhhh. The mechanism - I went through that a few times before I (what I thought) got it write. 

If the table is put all the way back the guard will stay flat with the table. But, if the fence is all the way back - its not nessesary to have the rear guard in place, so I made it removable. It's very easy to remove the rear guard, just remove one side of the spring, slide it out of the track and store it on the rear of the belt guard ( 1st picture ).

Now I have to send out that front Peter guard pattern i made out to the foundry for an aluminum pour. I have a few other members (OWWM) that have been hounding me to get this done.....they want it for their AWWM 16" jointer.


I do plane on repairing the old one, with some minor additions to it,,,,I'll have to see how that goes....


B,


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## Joeb41 (Jun 23, 2012)

That thing is a beast! What a great restoration and your inginuity in designing and fabricating the guards is awesome. Between you and Warner you keep my memories alive of my apprenticship working in mill shops many years ago. There was no OSHA and very few guards on those machines and most of us kept all our fingers using common sense. Thank you for sharing, also A-1 photography.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Thank you Joe,
I could not agree more with your feelings about having some responsibility for your own actions. I'm very upset with the idea of having the government decide what is best. .....Amongst other issues, but we won't go there....:no:

The Saw Stop was the first attempt of ramming regulation down the industrial throats of those that make the machinery , and the government doing what it thinks is best for everyone......


Are we not capable of being responsible for our own actions....:blink:

Not that I am not for safety,.....that iis a given vocational training I can see such a device , (which is happening exponentially)...fear of lawsuits....but even that is not really addressing the dangers of machinery and is taking people down the wrong path....


But Steve Gass ..........:icon_rolleyes:


Well,....











Sorry about the rant, 
I just do not agree with the direction our country is going...

Disgusted would about some it up.....

B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well,
I repaired the original guard so I have something to use while the pattern goes out to the foundry...

Guard works very well,smooth.......




























B,


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*the brown unit is the pattern?*

What's it made from? Looks like rusty metal, but that can't be....Masonite? painted wood? Nice job on duplicating the original! 
What will the foundry charge? Sand casting in aluminum? Bronze would be too cool, polished! Have you run it yet? I can hear it now ...... :thumbsup:

Interesting counter weight return mechanism. Nice job on the weight, if you made it. Unhook the weight to get the guard out of the way, but being that large, it's still in the way. That Porter 16" jointer I referenced way back, doesn't have a guard, but he doesn't care, one man shop, not a restoration project either. That thing scares me.... fast and loud.:laughing:

I'm gonna guess here... If you're like me, you like makin' things that make things more than making things? :blink: bill


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Hey Bill,
The guard that is mounted on the jointer is the "old" Peter guard. The one on the right is the pattern guard I made from red oak,stained and then several coats of laquer - that is the guard going to the foundry. 

It will be a sand mold as you said and made from Aluminum. Most of the front guards for jointers are made out of aluminum for a reason. If. The guard does come into contact with the cutter head it will not cause a serious accident (soft metal) . The old guard has bottomed out with the cutter head, it is down to 3/8" in that area, but near the pivot point it is 7/8" in height.

The guard gravity swing weight is original to the jointer, but the location where it hangs I moved to cut down on the aggressive swing it had. Now it is a little bit less forceful and a very smooth swing operation.


I haven't hooked up the VFD as of yet, that will be coming. I have to fabricate an enclosure for the unit but the electrical aspect will be getting completed as I move along with the AWWM jointer.


Hope all is well,


B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Well.,
I completed a trial run of the motor & cutter (with out the blades) just to see how everything worked. It ran just as I had hoped with no vibrations/problems so next is getting the VFD mounted and controls situated. I still have to balance the lock plates for the cutter head and start the HG lacquer applications on the pattern for the cutter guard.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjMv6DNGXmU&feature=youtu.be


B,


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

Awesome restoration!!!

Can't wait to see it in action when you knife up! :gunsmilie::gunsmilie:


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## EdS (Mar 21, 2013)

I can only say that was a fantastic job you did. Most people wouldn't even attempt what you were able to accomplish. The jointer will now show off not only a great old workhorse of a machine, but also the skills of the man that restored it. I would be very proud if I were you.


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Thank you Scott,Ed,....

I moved the castors on the out feed side,..it was a little unsettling . I noticed a slight lean when I pushed it back to the wall on the out feed side so I had to re-do that side...


The new rear assembly configuration.



















much better and now it's stable when I move her...

B,


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## mike1950 (Aug 29, 2010)

Sure is a sweet looking tool. I bet it looks and performs better then new!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Thank you,

Well,
I have about 7 coats of lacquer on the guard,I still have to sand/lacquer a few more times but it's almost ready for buffalo forge. I hope to get some pictures of the process when they do this......












B,


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Im begiining to like this.....










B,


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*good move!*

I didn't want to say anything, 'cause what do I know, but lower and wider is better on heavy stuff. DAMHIKT.. :laughing:
That is a thing of beauty...... no weird colors either. Hello Warner.


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

Looks awesome B! Excellent work all around. Nice fabrication on the guard and the wheels look better positioned now. I have to ask, what are you using to light the interior so it glows?


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Thanks gents,....

You know, it was ok - the mobile base at the outfield, but like I said- I did notice the tendency to lean and I didn't want to take the chance....trial and error situation again,,,,
Those lights, 
It was a trial run on the older guard, they are LED lights. They come in a strip on a roll - 12 or 24vlts. Have you seen my MOAK 32" special or the Oliver 88D........?
I am still working on a plan for them in the AWWM jointer restoration,,,,not sure where as of yet....

B,


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I did notice them on your other machines. I'm trying to figure out to put rope lights in my table saw now. Thanks a lot! ;-)


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Where?....:blink:

Those lights are not rope lights shopdad...


They are flat, very small projection...5/16ths wide x 1/8" Projection -16' long with the light emitting diodes spaced every 1-1/2". Its pretty amazing what you can do with them. They have a very strong pressure sensitive adhesive on the back and will stick to almost anything ( as long as it is a clean ,flat ,dry surface).

Amazon.com: HitLights LED Flexible Lighting Strip Cool White or Bright White, 5 Meter or 16 Ft, 3528 Type, 300 SMD, 24 Watt: Home Improvement

Then I go down to my local electronic supply company and buy a 120vlt to 12vlt DC transformer, $32.00 for everything.

I think between the LED lights and the digital VFD program panel it brings my OWWM machines up to The modern technology of today but still has that old machinery look to it as well. 

I went a little to far with some of the restorations, but .....

That's just the creative side of me and I enjoy it,,,,,




B,


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## Shop Dad (May 3, 2011)

I was just teasing about the rope lights. 


I like the creativity you bring to these great machines. Keep it up!


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## mikeintexas (Oct 25, 2011)

This thread is truly epic in scope, detail and execution. Awesome old iron and truly masterful restoration/fabrication. Thanks for sharing! Can't wait to see pics of it in action!


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## Bweick7 (Jan 14, 2010)

Thank you ,

Well,
I checked the weights on the lock plates for the blades. I had 3 @ 504g and 2 @ 505g and 1 @ 503g. The only way to even the weight on all of the plates was to go down obviously so I cleaned up the back side of the plates (bolt side) with the belt sander and got them all down to 503g.....










B,


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