# can my lathe do this?



## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Wasn't sure what to title this... here goes.

So I have a small pen lathe, and I'm making a Native American style pipe.
Bought a pre drilled bit of wood for the stem (pretty sure they said it was sumac, not the poison kind.) and was wondering if there is any way to put this on my lathe?
It's too long for the mandrel and the hole is too narrow anyway. And no I don't want to drill it wider, already made nibs to attach the pipe with.
That pointy bit on the right side works great, is there such a thing I can put on the left side that would hold this?

I think for this one I'll just do this by hand with my dremel, but I MAY make another. Got the pipe part carved already and it came out darn nice for a first time stone carving. So anything I can learn here will only help.

You really need visuals, here. (please excuse the horrendous mess, my garage is in serious need of re organizing. Too many projects going at once.)


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## Pretender (Jun 22, 2019)

Your should be looking for a drive spur.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jul 4, 2018)

the tail stock appears to have sufficient point to hold it.
But, like Mike said, what do you have to drive the wood ?


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

artmakersworlds said:


> That pointy bit on the right side works great, is there such a thing I can put on the left side that would hold this?


Yes, I'd recommend one like shown below 

Multi-tooth, spring-loaded drive centers are far superior to traditional the 4-prong centers that come stock with most lathes
The spring-loaded center point contacts the workpiece first, then retracts into the center when pressure is applied preventing splitting of your workpiece
The multiple teeth then grip the wood as pressure is applied on the tailstock greatly decreased the likelihood of splitting your work


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Dave McCann said:


> Yes, I'd recommend one like shown below
> 
> Multi-tooth, spring-loaded drive centers are far superior to traditional the 4-prong centers that come stock with most lathes
> The spring-loaded center point contacts the workpiece first, then retracts into the center when pressure is applied preventing splitting of your workpiece
> ...


PERFECT!!!!! That's exactly what I needed to see and know the name off. Thank you SO much.
I'm out there working on this with the dremel, gonna keep a slight raw wood imprefection shape going for this one. But I sure can see myself making more of these. Perhaps selling them. First one is mine though, can only be one first right?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

I would use a chuck to grasp the outside of the piece, but first insert a plug in the hole to prevent it from collapsing under clamping pressure when tightening the chuck.
Even a multi-spur drive may stress the end of the pipe or not have enough surface to grab the piece.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

I actually have one of those but.... pipe is too long for my lathe with that big klunky thing on it. I like that other idea better. But again, this one I'm doing by hand. Actually gonna keep a slight natural stick shape to it.

Trying to find out next what to finish the wood with. Seems bees wax or linseed oil are the top choices so far but still doing some homework.
I am going to do a bit of inlay.... Fine chips with super glue. Works great on pens... tried a sample piece of wood and yup, it will work for a pipe too... but not sure how oil or wax will look over that part. Might need more test pieces done.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

artmakersworlds said:


> I actually have one of those but.... pipe is too long for my lathe with that big klunky thing on it. I like that other idea better. But again, this one I'm doing by hand. Actually gonna keep a slight natural stick shape to it.
> 
> Trying to find out next what to finish the wood with. Seems bees wax or linseed oil are the top choices so far but still doing some homework.
> I am going to do a bit of inlay.... Fine chips with super glue. Works great on pens... tried a sample piece of wood and yup, it will work for a pipe too... but not sure how oil or wax will look over that part. Might need more test pieces done.


Another method comes to mind. You can make a tight fitting wood plug for the spindle on one end and the flute on the other. Drive it into the spindle and press the flute on the end sticking out. Then use an automotive hose clamp to secure the flute on the plug. a few wraps of tape will keep it from squeezing too much and marring the flute. This is a "zero cost" method. No parts to buy.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

You can make a sort of jam chuck that fits the hole on the head stock end with a narrow MT-1 taper cut in the wood. friction will turn the wood if firmly held in the taper, even with out teeth. I have turned hundreds of pieces using only the MT-2 taper inside my headstock spindle as the drive head. (i bought a few cases of furniture spindles from an old furniture factory and turn them into other items just with the friction of the .inside of the taper and they turn just fine, provided they are kept under about 2 inches in diameter. Many turners lose sight of the fact that the taper inside the spindle can be used as a drive too.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

artmakersworlds said:


> That pointy bit on the right side works great, is there such a thing I can put on the left side that would hold this?


One needn't spend a whole lot of money for these "pointy things"  (spur drives)

This one fits a #1 Morse taper; $16.00








Tailstock Center, 0.01 MM, Wood Turning Tool Wood Lathe Live Tailstock for Wood and Metalworking Lathe Drive Centre(MT1): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement


Tailstock Center, 0.01 MM, Wood Turning Tool Wood Lathe Live Tailstock for Wood and Metalworking Lathe Drive Centre(MT1): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement



www.amazon.com





This one fits a #2 Morse taper; $21.00








Oudtinx Woodworking #2 MT with 5/8-Inch Crown Super Wood Lathe Drive Center - - Amazon.com


Oudtinx Woodworking #2 MT with 5/8-Inch Crown Super Wood Lathe Drive Center - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com





Yes, one can spend much more for a name brand spur drive. I have yet to see the value for my needs.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

Dave McCann said:


> This one fits a #1 Morse taper; $16.00
> 
> 
> 
> ...


@Dave McCann, is it just me or is the title description on this one messed up? It says it's a tailstock center, then it says it's a live tailstock, and finally it says it's a drive center. Which is it? You can assume from the picture that it is a drive center, but the picture could be wrong. I hate it when this happens on Amazon. I didn't read the Q&A or reviews down the page to see what they say. I'd assume it's a drive center. But I had a similar situation on an item I ordered and they sent me the wrong thing 3 times - none matched the description or the picture!


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Woodworking Wolf said:


> Which is it?


I know no more than what is in the advertisement. I too, would conclude that the item offered in the ad is a drive center. In the provided photos, I see no seam that would indicate a bearing.












Reviews from the advertisement;


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Your lathe can do what ever you give it the accessories to accomplish the task, it is critical to keep the bore through the stock centred at both ends. It is usually a good idea to have a bit extra length so you can finish the turning at both ends and just cut off the parts you were using to hold it.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

The OP said:
_So I have a small pen lathe, and I'm making a Native American style pipe.
*Bought a pre drilled bit of wood for the ste*m (pretty sure they said it was sumac, not the poison kind.) and was wondering if there is any way to put this on my lathe?
It's too long for the mandrel and the hole is too narrow anyway. And no I don't want to drill it wider, already made nibs to attach the pipe with.
That pointy bit on the right side works great, is there such a thing I can put on the left side that would hold this? _

A hollow tube/pipe presents issue that are not typical. It may also be fragile and split if a pointed tailstock center is used.
A better solution, JMO, is to plug the ends of the tube and secure them from expanding with a simple hose clamp or wraps of electrical tape.
A chuck can also grasp the end of a plugged tube with enough friction not to deform or collapse it. A wrap of painters tape will add friction.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Well just dandy. Seems Amazon (or directly from China) is the ONLY place to find this?

I flat out refuse to do business from either. (Knowing full well that most of the stuff in the stores comes from china.) 

But amazon? NO (*insert slew of cuss words) WAY!

Someone has GOT to have a similar part. Left side of lathe, grab a piece with some center point. That's all I need. 
I've checked several sites I've got parts from and nothing.

Unless this goes by some other name????


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

Use your chuck to make a piece to go snugly over the end of the piece you want to turn an inch or so long and then turn the other end to fit tightly into your head stock taper. When mounted between centers it will serve as your drive center. Beginning turners frequently get wrapped up in "what equipment do I need to buy to do this?" Instead of how can I do this with the tools I have. (I know I did) There are several 19th century turning texts available free on line that describe how to do miraculous things "old school"


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

holtzdreher said:


> Use your chuck to make a piece to go snugly over the end of the piece you want to turn an inch or so long and then turn the other end to fit tightly into your head stock taper. When mounted between centers it will serve as your drive center. Beginning turners frequently get wrapped up in "what equipment do I need to buy to do this?" Instead of how can I do this with the tools I have. (I know I did) There are several 19th century turning texts available free on line that describe how to do miraculous things "old school"



Oh I wish I understood what your talking about. But meanwhile I tried different search terms and found several on ebay, same price as the one above, and from US sellers. Average price 17 bucks. Not too painful at all. But I'll do more homework on this, next thing I need to make are short little nibs to connect the pipe to stick. Replaceable vs just carving the stick to fit. Had one like that, it wears out. SO it means drilling a short piece of dowel then turning it. I made a few already just with the dremel and eyeballing it, took forever. This could be done so much faster on the lathe, make several and put them away to use as needed. That pointy gripper part would be good, (hmmmm. IF I can push both sides close enough, maybe not.)

Thinking as I write.... I could put a long piece of dowl in there, do the turning, cut different sections out last. DUH, yea, so that same part would work for this too. OR... I do have one of those big claw grabber things. Long piece of dowel on that, again cut off the pieces after turning. Yea..... (See that lightbulb go off?) lol.

Yea clearly I'm a beginner with this. Only turned a few pens so far.


here, just one listing I have saved, there are a ton once I put the right terms in there.
2 MT with 1-Inch Woodworking lathe drive center | eBay


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## dcp2023 (Aug 6, 2021)

I actually did exactly what you're trying to do .... hollowed out some birch dowel rods for a new product I'm releasing. Note that I bought 3 lathes and stands to get it done. First Jet 10x15 (JWL-1015VS) wasn't powerful enough so returned it as it just didn't have the horsepower. (Still have the brand new stand for it and need to get rid of it.) The mid size Delta (Model #46-460) was strong enough and what I used. I used Nova Spigot jaw sets, Forstner bits (with 4" long shank from Rockler), Morse tapers and extensions. Note that there is a limit how far you can drill into the dowel rod on the lathe just because the equipment I had couldn't reach further, even if you drill the dowel from both ends. There's a video online somewhere showing a Native American gentleman using a lathe to make 12"-16" pipes that I found online once but could never find the video again to figure out what he was using. I opted for keeping the end in the jaws intact on one end (like someone mentioned above) and hollowing out shorter pieces of the dowels (4"). I had never even seen a lathe in person when I started on that adventure, but it was a great learning experience and I have a lot of respect for turners. I found a different solution for my product. Expensive lesson but fun.


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## dcp2023 (Aug 6, 2021)

Artmakersworlds - I actually still have all this equipment so here's the equipment I used to hollow them out. I could only achieve 7"-8" lengths hollowed out but maybe you can use this info and solve the "need longer drilling length for a pipe" issue. Here's what I used:
Fisch 9/16" Brad Point Drill
Rockler Carbide Forstner Bits with 3 7/8" long shanks (3/4" and 1", I had 2 different size dowels I was experimenting with)
Nova G3 Pro-Tek 1" x 8TPI Reversible Chuck Direct Thread
Rockler 1/2 Drill Chuck
Century Brad Point 7/8" with 1/2" Reduced Shank (to take most of the material out of the middle of the dowel before using the Forstner bits (8" long I think)
#2 Morse Taper 4 5/16" from Rockler
Nova Pin Jaw Set 47391
Nova Chuck Accessory 35MM/1.35 Spigot Jaws SKU JS-SP35
That's all pretty expensive equipment - guess the investment depends on how many pipes you want to make.
Note that unless you're dead center when you're drilling you'll make pipe holes out the side of the dowel rod in positions you didn't actually want a hole (speaking from experience). Expert turners might have advice on how to get dead center.
Hope that helps.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Got a picture of the thing?


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## dcp2023 (Aug 6, 2021)

artmakersworld, Yes, here are pics. The first is the spigot jaws (that held the dowel rod) assembled to the chuck. This was attached to the headstock. The 2nd photo shows the parts for the tailstock, drill bit I used to take most of the wood out, then the Forstner bits I used to get a clean inside edge and finish the "hollowing out" process. I sold the lathe so can't show a photo of the parts attached to the lathe. I hollowed out about 20 8" dowels before I concluded the process, though it worked perfectly, would be too labor intensive for mass production of the scarf slides I'm making so all of these parts are nearly brand new and not returnable, so for sale if you are (or anyone else is) interested. You can get all these parts at Rockler. Hope that info posted earlier on all the parts and specifications and the pics clarify for you. Good Luck!
Desiree


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Dave McCann said:


> Yes, I'd recommend one like shown below
> 
> Multi-tooth, spring-loaded drive centers are far superior to traditional the 4-prong centers that come stock with most lathes
> The spring-loaded center point contacts the workpiece first, then retracts into the center when pressure is applied preventing splitting of your workpiece
> ...


Well I ordered this off ebay, and... it doesn't fit my PEN lathe. Sending it back. 
Clearly there are sizes on these things. So what size do I need?


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

I suspect the flutemaker was using something like a rifle bit. Nice thing about these is they have an air feed provision to help clear the chips while drilling.
Another way Ive seen for flutes thats pretty common is split the wood and rout the centers out then glue it back together.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

artmakersworlds said:


> Well I ordered this off ebay, and... it doesn't fit my PEN lathe. Sending it back.
> Clearly there are sizes on these things. So what size do I need?


Yes, the taper has a size. My guess is you ordered a MT2 (sometimes shown as #2 MT, it stands for Morse Taper) and your pen lathe is uses MT1. If you look back at post #10, you will see Dave showed one of each size.

I think your best bet is to look at your owner's manual to verify the size. If you don't have a manual, search for one online or post the info for your lathe here and see if someone can help you find a manual.

You can also look here to try to determine the correct size: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/Measuring for Morse Taper Size.pdf


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

artmakersworlds said:


> Clearly there are sizes on these things. So what size do I need?


Based on the photo, it appears you ordered a #2 taper. I suspect your lathe needs a#1 taper.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

Measure the spindle opening, there are dimensions here;


Wood Lathes 101


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

I get about a half inch across my opening. So that would be a #1??? Based on the last link above?


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

artmakersworlds said:


> I get about a half inch across my opening. So that would be a #1??? Based on the last link above?


Based on my link yes. I still think you would do well to get the manual. You might learn some things in it about your lathe that will help you.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

I don't know if there is one. I got an open box, discontinued lathe that harbor freight had sitting around forever. Bought it as is, came with nothing.


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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If the opening is 1/2" or close it has a #1 taper.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Well I can't seem to find one the right size. Guess I won't be turning pipes anytime soon. Just carve them by hand.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

artmakersworlds said:


> Well I can't seem to find one the right size. Guess I won't be turning pipes anytime soon. Just carve them by hand.


HUH? You didn't see my earlier link? post #10








Tailstock Center, 0.01 MM, Wood Turning Tool Wood Lathe Live Tailstock for Wood and Metalworking Lathe Drive Centre(MT1): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement


Tailstock Center, 0.01 MM, Wood Turning Tool Wood Lathe Live Tailstock for Wood and Metalworking Lathe Drive Centre(MT1): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement



www.amazon.com


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Great but I flat out refuse to ever do business with Amazon ever again. Anti American company. Only one I can find on ebay ships from China. Probably get it in 4 months.
Losing interest in using the lathe at this point.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Get a live center direct from Oneway in Canada. Best quality you can get for the price.





Live Center







oneway.ca




Lee Valley has drive centers





Sorby Stebcenters - Lee Valley Tools







www.leevalley.com




Klingspor has them too








Super 4-Prong Drive Center #2 MT - 1"D


Klingspor's Woodworking Shop is full line distributor of woodworking tools and supplies from respected companies like Klingspor Abrasives.




www.woodworkingshop.com




This one may be what you want





MT1 Lathe Dead Center 60 Degree Point Morse Taper NO.1 Dead Center Lathe Tools – Alexnld.com







alexnld.com


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Again, I need size #1. NOT #2. Tried Kingspor and replaced 2 with 1 NO results.
That first link, live center brings up a page of all kinds of parts and not one of them resembles what I need.

So it looks like I either have to get it on amazon or don't get one. I won't be getting one.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

artmakersworlds said:


> Well I can't seem to find one the right size. Guess I won't be turning pipes anytime soon. Just carve them by hand.


Just google _*wood lathe accessories*._ Pretty much every company that comes up will sell at least one drive center with a #1 MT. This place has a bunch (not recommending them, know nothing about this business, just showing you you can get what you need). The Woodturning Store


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

GOOD LORD! 49.00?????? AND out of stock no less.
*








Axminster, Pro Drive Center, 5/8" (16mm) Diameter, #1 MT


Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies




www.thewoodturningstore.com




*
Sigh.... Again, back to holding the thing with my hand and using a dremel. Nuts.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

artmakersworlds said:


> GOOD LORD! 49.00?????? AND out of stock no less.
> *
> 
> 
> ...


There are lots of drive centers to choose from. You need to mellow out. Do you need that exaxt style? What about one of these? GOOD LORD! $26.99????? AND all of them are in stock no less!









Axminster, 4 Prong Drive Center, 5/8" Diameter, #1 MT


Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies




www.thewoodturningstore.com













Axminster, 2 Prong Drive Center, 1" Diameter, #1 MT


Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies




www.thewoodturningstore.com













Axminster, 4 Prong Drive Center, 1" Diameter, #1 MT


Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies




www.thewoodturningstore.com













Axminster, 4 Prong Drive Center, 3/8" Diameter, #1 MT


Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies




www.thewoodturningstore.com


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Every one is over 26 bucks. TOO expensive. Thanks for trying though.


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Methink you are playing too helpless. 








4pcs 1-1/16" Drive Spur Cup MT1 Arbor MT1 Wood Lathe Live Center + Box NEW | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 4pcs 1-1/16" Drive Spur Cup MT1 Arbor MT1 Wood Lathe Live Center + Box NEW at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

Gary Beasley said:


> Methink you are playing too helpless.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's pretty funny. Did you notice the shipping charge?


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Woodworking Wolf said:


> That's pretty funny. Did you notice the shipping charge?


You gotta pay to play. You could turn a drive center out of hardwood if you are that cheap and it will probably work just fine.


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## Woodworking Wolf (Sep 17, 2021)

What I meant was the shipping charge is $1,000.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Gary Beasley said:


> Methink you are playing too helpless.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So we just jumped from 26.00 which I already said is too much, to 33 for a set of 4 tools when all I want is one.

Me isn't too helpless. Me is too cheap.

Again, I'll just hold the thing in my hand and use my dremel. This lathe idea won't work for this.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Woodworking Wolf said:


> What I meant was the shipping charge is $1,000.


lol I had to go back and look, mine says free shipping. Still, don't need 4 tools. 

BTW... the seller I got the #2 part from does not want it returned. Already gave me a refund. My guess shipping fees aren't worth it to him. In any case, if someone wants this part, I'm happy to sell it cheap.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

artmakersworlds said:


> Great but I flat out refuse to ever do business with Amazon ever again. Anti American company. Only one I can find on ebay ships from China. Probably get it in 4 months.
> Losing interest in using the lathe at this point.


That is a shame. Because the proper tool makes a job so much easier. As for your boycott of companies or countries, it is unfortunate that sometimes the only supply in the world is from a source we are reluctant to use. (Back in the 1960's, the only supplier in the world of the giant bearings for hydroelectric turbines was Czechoslovakia, a communist country at the time. Despite the precarious position the US could have been in, they never gouged us for price or threatened not to sell to the US. Of course when some congressman found out, there was a bill to give an obscene amount of money to an American company to set up machinery to make the bearings. IIRC the money was spent, but the plant never actually made anything that power companies ordered.) I have ordered several things from China over the last few years. Never waited longer than 3 weeks. In fact, I have had some items custom made in India and had them in less than a month. Got lathe turning tools from Russia and those were shipped within a day, but sat in a US postal facility in New Jersey for 3 weeks on the way. There are several suppliers of MT1 center kits (made in China) but kept in stock here in the US that you can have in a few days at most. Try Rockler Hardware, Penn State Industries, Woodcraft, ebay, etc. .


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

holtzdreher said:


> That is a shame. Because the proper tool makes a job so much easier. As for your boycott of companies or countries, it is unfortunate that sometimes the only supply in the world is from a source we are reluctant to use. (Back in the 1960's, the only supplier in the world of the giant bearings for hydroelectric turbines was Czechoslovakia, a communist country at the time. Despite the precarious position the US could have been in, they never gouged us for price or threatened not to sell to the US. Of course when some congressman found out, there was a bill to give an obscene amount of money to an American company to set up machinery to make the bearings. IIRC the money was spent, but the plant never actually made anything that power companies ordered.) I have ordered several things from China over the last few years. Never waited longer than 3 weeks. In fact, I have had some items custom made in India and had them in less than a month. Got lathe turning tools from Russia and those were shipped within a day, but sat in a US postal facility in New Jersey for 3 weeks on the way. There are several suppliers of MT1 center kits (made in China) but kept in stock here in the US that you can have in a few days at most. Try Rockler Hardware, Penn State Industries, Woodcraft, ebay, etc. .


Holdzdrecher, I never had a problem ordering from China. In fact the part that I got off ebay, that was the wrong size, came from China. I have no problem with the people of china. Just because their leader is evil doesn't mean the people are.

I have a problem with Amazon. Multiple actually. The last straw, was Amazon getting involved in silencing Trump or any platform he uses. That did it for me. But before that?
1. Contacting individual sellers, VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE. (Easy on ebay.) So if you have any questions about a listing, go pound sand.
2. Amazon prime. They make it so opting into that is WAY too easy to do by mistake. And I did just that. It was like rolling in sticky glue, getting OUT of it was a chore.
3. My daughter gets her first credit card. Her very first purchase EVER was on Amazon. And guess what? Her card info got stolen, bogus charges made, and she got the first hand experience of canceling the card and starting all over. (No clue what other information someone gathered.) How could ANY OTHER outfit have her CC info when this was the first ever purchase with it? So that was HER first and last experience with amazon.
4. And this should scare everyone. OTHER companies are allowing sales THROUGH AMAZON! Ebay sellers pull this all the time. Now they are allowed to have a warehouse in the states and sell through. THEIR OWN WAREHOUSE, Not amazon. (Pretty sure the part I bought did just that.) But it happens all the time. I flat out refuse to play along and if I order off ebay and amazon shows up, it goes back. I then report the seller to ebay since this IS against their rules. (Which they barely enforce, they are making money too.) Many items now, repeat purchase items I just stopped even looking at ebay for. I'd find it, look at feedback, and see complaints about amazon showing up or items never arriving. Move onto the next one, repeat. Until I get fed up and find some other site. Even walmart, ordered a toaster online and guess who delivers it. AMAZON. And that was the LAST thing I ever ordered off walmarts site. As more and more companies drop ship for Amazon, it's just a matter of time before amazon is the only game around. Do you think their prices will stay low after ALL the competition vanishes?
5. Last one I promise. Amazon delivery people are about as STUPID as they come. I'm in a very rural area. Straight street too. Only 4 houses on my side and 1 on the other. (And I own two side by side so basically I have ONE neighbor to the north and one to the south of me.) We ALL have our house numbers clearly on the mail boxes out front. HOW could any delivery person screw that up? Yet amazon CONSTANTLY misses the target. (To be fair, Fed Ex isn't very much better.) I get my neighbors stuff, both sides of me, they get mine. I even got a delivery that belongs to some lady in another STATE! I don't know how they find such incompetent drivers, but they sure have no shortage of them. So even IF I order from amazon, there's about a 50/50 chance the package ends up on someone elses porch. OR STATE. 

So again. If someone finds this part in size 1, going price should be ball park 17 bucks, I'll pay A FEW bucks more to not do business with amazon. But even ebay, it means I have to sift through feedback, search for any mention of amazon showing up, or missing packages (I believe ebay has been removing feedback that mentions amazon, again they are making money too.) but deliveries not showing up is a tip off. If I find that I move onto the next listing. Until I toss in the towel as I have now.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Hey lets change gears here. Thought I'd dig up a few pen kits I bought several years ago and turn one. Now I have turned a few really nice pens, rank beginner but they came out sweet. Then we started some massive home repairs and a whole lot of crapola got stashed in my garage. SO I haven't touched the lathe in a few years now. CLEAN forgot what I'm doing.

Just trying to drill a blank, sat through about a dozen videos.... dang it. All showing the drill bit on the right side, and this clamp thing on the left. (Tail/head, which is which? 
Anyway I have the gripper thing, but the right side? For the life of me I cannot remember how to set that up. I took that pointy bit completely out, yea that's not it. 

I don't own a drill press, and I KNOW I have done this using the lathe. 

Need a refresher course. 
Got a picture of mine, 
I also grabbed a shot of the make model etc.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

The left hand assembly that provides the spin is the headstock. The right side assembly is called the tail stock. What you have inserted in the tail stock in the picture is a live center, because it has a bearing and spins with the work. There is also a nearly obsolete thing called a dead center. the part that straddles the lathe between the centers is a banjo. The banjo primarily holds the tool rest. Many turners use a Jacobs drill chuck on a taper inserted in the tail stock to hold the bit for drilling on the lathe. They use the chuck (clampy thing) to hold and spin the work while the drill bit doesn't spin. (It can spin if the taper is not inserted properly or has too much oil on it.) On your lathe,(8x12 right?) there isn't much room for drilling anything over a few inches long. If I recall correctly, a bed extension was offered for that particular lathe, but rare as hens teeth. . I have a lathe just like yours that I use for small items when the larger lathes are set up for other jobs. I use it a few times a year and it is easy to take to craft events to demonstrate turning. For little things like ornaments, pens, tops etc, it is good.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Thanks for all that. So... I actually have a Jacobs drill chuck. But if my life depended on it I cannot remember how the blasted thing goes on my lathe. I also found a batch of cutting tools for squaring up the ends of the drilled blanks. Forgot how those go on too. I must be missing some parts somewhere. I know I've used this all before. Gees youtube is about worthless sometimes. Found one showing how to set up the lathe. Perfect right? "Sock this into your tailstock" AND YET THAT SIDE IS OFF CAMERA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gees. Everything else I found is NOT what I searched for. Repairing one, cleaning a rusty one. I wish searches worked better.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

Yeah some folks youtube videos are about worthless. However, there are excellent ones, by several different turners. The Aamerican Association of wood turners had a trial membership for free, (don't know if they still do) but it included access to videos that were reviewed for safety and proper instruction by turning experts. If you have a jacons chuck on an MT taper, you merely remove the live center and slip the jacobs chuck in the tail stock socket. To remove the live center, you probably just need to turn the hand wheel to retract the live center. Once it reaches a point, there is an internal piece that forces the taper out of the socket. (sometimes the taper is too short for that and you need slip a box wrench or piece of wood over the taper between the bearing and the tail stock to add a spacer.)


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

Jacobs chuck on a MT 1taper


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

Here, pictures. Also found a container of cutting bits, clean forgot how to use those too. (this is really sad.)


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Those cutting bits are the center shafts for the end mill next to them. Mill mounts on whichever shaft fits the tube on the pen kit you are turning and is used to cut the blank down flush with the brass tube. Looks to be one of the better sets.


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## holtzdreher (Jul 20, 2016)

When you took out the live center from the tail stock, you screwed out the tail stock sleeve/socket as well. That part needs to go back into the tail stock. before anything else will work. The live center (pointy thing) comes out of that threaded sleeve. there is a tapered socket inside that is a uniform Morse taper No. 1, so other attachments will fit by just sliding them in. There is no reason to remove the sleeve from the tail stock unless you feel the need to clean the tail stock assembly. Did you lathe come with a knock out rod? use the knock out rod in the sleeve from the threaded end and try to bump out the live center. Then put the sleeve back into the tail stock. the key way for the lock down screw to hold the sleeve from rotating. (groove running part of the length of the sleeve) . you will have to line that up with the lock down screw again once the sleeve is back in. .

I am pretty sure, HF still has the manual with parts list free for downloading at their web site customer service tab. If not I may have one somewhere.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok it's HAPPY DANCE time..... Did you see that flash of light? It was my brain cells firing up. Finally. lol.
Yup, took a bit of banging but sure enough that pointy thing popped right out. AND.... so excited I had to drill a blank. First one in several years. WHOPPEEEEE.

Next.... I had a long blank, cut it in half to make two pens, and it is just a tad longer than the tube, expected. I KNOW that extra box of bits is to get it the exact right length and square up the ends.... but alas, that part of my brain still isn't grasping something I HAVE ALREADY DONE BEFORE. (Yea it's like riding a bike right? Once you fall off you never forget how.)


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## Gary Beasley (Jan 21, 2009)

Easy peasy. One of the shafts is a snug fit in your pen tube. Mount the cutter on the shank, teeth facing down. Mount it in your drill, pen blank snug in a vise with clearance on the bottom end. Shaft goes into the tube, spin up the drill and gently bring the teeth into the end of the wood backing out frequently to check the depth of the cut. When you just contact the brass it will turn shiny, swap to the other end and repeat.


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## artmakersworlds (Apr 19, 2020)

So that part is just with my drill, ok. Easy enough. Wondered why they have cutter ends since I already drilled the hole. It's that jaggy round bit that smooths the end of the blank then? 
I'm confused. How do you know how far to go?


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