# Router Table ... ******* style



## hmsmike (Nov 11, 2010)

Ok tell me if this will work ... :shifty:

I actually have this 1" thick smooth laminate table in my shop that is like to no value to me and I was think for a quick fix I would drill out a 3" hole into it and mount my router to the bottom side. Will this work at all or am I just wasting my time. 

and yes, It will be temporary deal until I can actually buy one. :laughing:

:cowboy: Gotta luv sum ******* Style!!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

do it! :yes:

But a 3" hole is rather large.


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

hmsmike said:


> Ok tell me if this will work ... :shifty:
> 
> I actually have this 1" thick smooth laminate table in my shop that is like to no value to me and I was think for a quick fix I would drill out a 3" hole into it and mount my router to the bottom side. Will this work at all or am I just wasting my time.
> 
> ...


Drill your 3" hole than take your router and run a rabbit around hole from top about 1/4" deep. Than make inserts with different diameter center holes to correspond to your different bits. Make a nice fence.Most router tables in professional shop's are made in the shop not *******. Why spend money on Chinese s***.when you Have the ability


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The thickness is a problem*

If your table is 1" thick, unless you can raise the chuck to be flush with the top the bits won't come up high enough to be usefull.
By rabbeting the underside to allow the motor/chuck/collet to be raised to almost flush or flush that problem will be solved.
You may not need a 3" opening on the top, but that makes a nice size to make or buy ready made inserts. Remember the inserts and the collet must be concentric so nothing gets chewed up! 
Router inserts: http://www.woodpeck.com/twistlockringset.html 
:thumbsup: bill


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## NYwoodworks (Sep 19, 2010)

I say do it too..You may even like it better than a cheap one. I have 3 router tables and my favorite one is the one I built out of a piece of a solid core door that was a window cutout. 

I made a big adjustable fence for it so I can clamp just about anything I want to it and If I need any weird guides on the table I just screw it right to the table. I have a 3hp router in it so it's a workhorse for me.


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## Masterofnone (Aug 24, 2010)

hmsmike said:


> Ok tell me if this will work ... :shifty:
> 
> I actually have this 1" thick smooth laminate table in my shop that is like to no value to me and I was think for a quick fix I would drill out a 3" hole into it and mount my router to the bottom side. Will this work at all or am I just wasting my time.
> 
> ...


You actually just described MY router table!!! Its old laminate counter top and two dados running down each side to slide my home-made fence back and forth on. Works just fine for me!


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Go ahead and make a table from what you have. You'll learn while you use it. Most shops I know have shop made tables.












 









.


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## hmsmike (Nov 11, 2010)

Well, I'm going to give it a go ... I mean heck it was a free table with no value to me --- might as well! LOL

I just think it could be something to play on until I can get or build something more serious ... hone my skills if you will!! 

NYwoodworks ... that table is awesome!! 

Just wondering if 3" is too big ... what would be a good size for the hole? Now considering just a 2" hole.

The 3" hole size I came up with was the opening on the router ... but I now see why the would be excessive.

Thanks guys for the support ... really am glad I found this board!! :thumbsup:


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## MastersHand (Nov 28, 2010)

hmsmike said:


> Well, I'm going to give it a go ... I mean heck it was a free table with no value to me --- might as well! LOL
> 
> I just think it could be something to play on until I can get or build something more serious ... hone my skills if you will!!
> 
> ...


Google to see size of standard insert s You can buy 
Keep in mind raised panel bits


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## b sco (Nov 8, 2010)

Replace your router baseplate with a piece of 1/4" plexiglass,about 7"square. Then rout into table top 1/4"deep,after cutting circle to clear router base. Your router then can hang thru table on plexi.
Oops,Imean 7"x what you need to clear handles!


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I would consider buying an aluminum plate designed to mount your router. (Rockler, Sommerfelds, ...) 

The reasons for this are that you can lift the router out of the table to easily make height adjustments and bit changes. 

If it is as nice a laminated slab as I think, you'll probably want to build a cabinet to support the slab. Eventually you'll probably want to replace the plate with a lift of some sort as well as adding a fence.

There is no sense in buying something to replace a great but free set up. When you buy a router table top all you get is a slab with a hole in it and sometimes the hole isn't included.

The only thing is that if you are going to get a precision adjustable fence for the table (i.e. Incra) you will need to mount your router so that you work along the short side of the table. The Incra needs about 42" front to back.


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## Texas Sawduster (Apr 27, 2009)

hmsmike said:


> Ok tell me if this will work ... :shifty:
> 
> I actually have this 1" thick smooth laminate table in my shop that is like to no value to me and I was think for a quick fix I would drill out a 3" hole into it and mount my router to the bottom side. Will this work at all or am I just wasting my time.
> 
> ...


Go for it.
Just like others have opined, cutout the underside of the worktop so the router will have enough stroke to push the chuck flush with the top. Also you may want to even go one step farther and buy a router table insert as has been suggested. 
You then can turn the worktop into a cabinet by adding drawers and doors, dust colletion, etc.


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## hmsmike (Nov 11, 2010)

Hey guys .... got an update .... so I was messing with this table and found out it was actually one of those tables that expand for a leaf! So, I made a leaf out of some MDF and mounted my router to it. This was such an easy solution because I can easily change the bits and depth just by pulling the leaf out. 

Still nice and ******* tho ... staying true to the spirit of the project! :laughing:

The only thing left to do is make a fence and shim up the leaf so it is flush with the actual table.

Does anyone know what I need to do make a fence? Do I just need to figure it from the center of router bit?


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

Simplest fence -----Make a fence similar to NYwoodworks---same length as the table---Screw the left end to the table with one screw---use a quick clamp on the right hand end---The fence will pivot on the screw ----Make a fairly small opening for the bit---to large an opening can snag the work piece.

Boxing the left side of the fence would allow you to hook a vacuum hose to the left side of the fence---


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## djg (Dec 24, 2009)

hmsmike said:


> Hey guys .... got an update .... so I was messing with this table and found out it was actually one of those tables that expand for a leaf! *So, I made a leaf out of some MDF and mounted my router to it.* This was such an easy solution because I can easily change the bits and depth just by pulling the leaf out.


 If I understand correctly, might the MDF sag from the weight of the router with time? Just a thought.


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## hmsmike (Nov 11, 2010)

djg said:


> If I understand correctly, might the MDF sag from the weight of the router with time? Just a thought.


Well its just a short section of the MDF, but again this is a temporary deal until I can build one from start to finish.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

djg said:


> If I understand correctly, might the MDF sag from the weight of the router with time? Just a thought.



I made two tables years ago from smooth MDF, used dovetails on the ends, used 2 pieces of hardwood underneath for reinforcement, and to keep them flat.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

"Simplest fence -----Make a fence similar to NYwoodworks---same length as the table---Screw the left end to the table with one screw---use a quick clamp on the right hand end---The fence will pivot on the screw ----Make a fairly small opening for the bit---to large an opening can snag the work piece."

That's the same fence design I used when I built my first router table... worked very well!

Now I have a large table built from 1" MDF top. I cut out a 9.5x9.5 square in the middle, rabbited the edge and dropped in a 10x10 3/4" lexan insert with my router mounted to it... works well

I got the lexan as some scrap they were going to junk on a movie set... it was like Xmas time came early, lol


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Kenbo has made a real nice router table*

Check out this thread: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/completed-my-router-table-5970/ :thumbsup::thumbsup: bill


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