# Saw Blade Getting Stuck on Arbor



## MrSlurpee (Nov 15, 2012)

So Saturday I was in the shop, and I went to take off my saw blade to put a dado stack on, and my saw blade was stuck to the arbor. I had to use to hands and a lot of muscle to wiggle it off. Later, when I went to take the dado stack off, same thing. Any one know what could cause this? My shop isn't insulated, and only heated when I'm in there. Could this be a caused by the cold?


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

MrSlurpee said:


> So Saturday I was in the shop, and I went to take off my saw blade to put a dado stack on, and my saw blade was stuck to the arbor. I had to use to hands and a lot of muscle to wiggle it off. Later, when I went to take the dado stack off, same thing. Any one know what could cause this? My shop isn't insulated, and only heated when I'm in there. Could this be a caused by the cold?


If you do not have a problem except in cold weather, then I would think it was differential contraction between the blade and the arbor.

If you want to experiment, try using a hair dryer next time you want to remove the blade. If this makes the blade come off as normal, then you have confirmed the problem.

I have the new Delta Unisaw and notice the arbor is a closer fit than my previous saw. It is easier to get my blade off by rotating the blade as I am removing. If I get the blade at all askew, it will get stuck and require both hands to free. My shop is normal temperature 60 - 70 deg F.


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## MrSlurpee (Nov 15, 2012)

I haven't experienced the problem before, either this winter or last summer. I'm just worried about the metal to metal contact when I'm wiggling the blade off. The blade teeth come awfully close to the metal compartment inside the saw.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Probably not unless ...*

there was condensation on the arbor or blades. Clean them all off using a green nylon scrubby pad or very fine 400 or 600 wet dry paper. Then remove everything from the arbor including washers and use a piece of 600 wet dry glued to a 1" wide stick and polish the arbor with it running. Polish the arbor flange face also. Then take the arbor washer and slide it gently on the large sheet of 600 wet dry and get it showing a shiny, even surface. 
Then I'd put a light coat of WD 40 or other fine lube and reassemble things. A thin coat of oil on the dado blades, like they come from the factory is good also.


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## rrbrown (Feb 15, 2009)

I think the cleaning idea is where I would start.


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## JohnnyTooBad (Dec 9, 2012)

+1 on the cleaning. Don't forget to do the arbor holes in all the blades. A thin coat of auto wax, or whatever you use on your cast iron may help prevent it happening again (for a while).

Although, if you can get all the way around the arbor without it running, I'd say leave it turned off. I'm assuming it's not a SawStop. If it is, don't turn it on.


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## Getting better (Dec 3, 2009)

Could be tight tolerances effected by temp change. I had a similar problem a long time ago. I removed the blade, used a strip of fine emery paper with the motor running to reduce the diameter very slightly. Worked fine and haven't had any more trouble.


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## Chris Curl (Jan 1, 2013)

just to add to this ...


JohnnyTooBad said:


> +1 on the cleaning. Don't forget to do the arbor holes in all the blades. A thin coat of auto wax, or whatever you use on your cast iron may help prevent it happening again (for a while).
> 
> Although, if you can get all the way around the arbor without it running, I'd say leave it turned off. I'm assuming it's not a SawStop. If it is, don't turn it on.


i hear that silicone is not good with wood, so it might be a good idea check the wax you choose to make sure it does not have silicone in it.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> remove everything from the arbor including washers and use a piece of 600 wet dry glued to a 1" wide stick and polish the arbor with it running.


I never thought of that. I'm going to do that today in the shop.

Another solution is the break the edge of the arbor hole on the saw blades. Just take a piece of 220 grit Wet or Dry under your thumb and take the sharp corner off the arbor hole. This will make life a lot simpler when changing blades.


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## MrSlurpee (Nov 15, 2012)

Thanks guys. I'll try the cleaning ideas out and let you know.


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## gus1962 (Jan 9, 2013)

Warm up the saw blade, I think this might help you to get off the arbor quite nicely.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Sounds like a Delta saw to me. I've never experienced that problem until I bought a unisaw and I had to buy a grinding wheel for a dremel tool and enlarge the arbor size on all my blades including the Delta blade it came with.


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## Al B Thayer (Dec 10, 2011)

That's not a problem. That's a blessing. Wait till the damn thing wares and loosens at will. I still have to beg the blade to come off the arbor and love it.I worked in a shop years ago with a saw that needed the arbor replaced. You never knew when the blade was going to come loose.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.


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## cowtown_eric (Feb 16, 2013)

when I bought my TS, I looked at a number of them. Took a digital dial indicator with me.

Lots of TS had "undersized" arbors, I forget by how much. they would have made blade removal easy, but made for an unblanced blade.

The saw I opted for had precise dimensions. never had a problem removing blades, dado set unless I had plastic shims in use. they drop into the threads and are frustrating. 

I'd think the cleaning idea is definetly warranted, I've seen lots of TSs all gummed up with resins from softwoods, A touch of oven cleaner generally does the trick. Then go for the slight touch of the emery paper! 

Eric in Calgary.


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## HowardAcheson (Nov 25, 2011)

What is the manufacturer of your blades and dado?

At one time, there were complaints about Freud blades and dados. Freud made their blades with a very close fitting arbor hole. Actually this was goodness as the tighter the clearance the flatter the dado bottoms would be. If there is more than a minimal amount of play, individual dado chippers will nut in different concentric paths creating stepped bottoms on dados.

Freud used to recommend to use some 600 grit Wet & Day sandpaper lubricated with some light machine oil. Wrap the paper around a dowel slightly smaller than the arbor and work it around the interior of the arbor hole. Work slowly testing the fit until the blades slide on and off with only a minimal amount of drag.

If attempting to sand the arbor itself be careful not to go too far. There's no way back.


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