# Prevention of Tip Over - Book Shelfs



## slick225 (Dec 9, 2008)

I'm planning to build a book shelf 7ft tall, and about 6ft wide, this shelf will only be used for books, and if I can pull it off a small digital safe that will be concealed by a row of phoney books. My current concern before I get started with construction is will the shelf be sturdy. I've never build something this tall or wide, and I have small children that may attempt to climb the shelf if no one is around. I initially did not want it to be fastened to the wall, so if there's a way to do this without connection to the wall that would be great, but I'm not committed to my idea of no wall fasteners so please let me know what my options are.
Thanks


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Book shelf or bookcase?*

Just so we can understand your question and give you an appropriate answer, we need to be certain what your problem or design is. A bookshelf is either a part of a bookcase or one shelf like a mantle which is attached to the wall, so a 7' tall unit by 6' wide is definitely a bookcase. Obviously, a span of 6' unsupported won't work so you might need either a center support running full height, or two of them on 24" centers dividing the 6 into 3 24" modules. The next concern I have is the height of the ceiling. If it's 8 feet, then there is no easy means of securing it to the ceiling, which leaves the only remaing choice: secure it to the wall by ALL means. Children will climb on it says Murphy, Gravity always follows close behind Murphy. Books are heavy and a small safe is also. so better "safe" than sorry. If the unit has a backer panel then locating the studs prior to installation and the corresponding holes on the back panel should be all that you neeed. Locate the screws at the uppermost portion of the back panel for the best leverage. Without a back panel, which is the least desireable construction for strength, your options are limited to brackets or a French cleat which restricts the top from moving out from the wall. It's a simple mating of 2 pieces cut at 45 degrees from which the unit can be attached to, but not be supported by. :thumbsup: My advice, my opinion. bill


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## Rob (Oct 31, 2006)

If it has a back panel (even if it doesn't, I guess) I would glue and screw a 3/4" thick piece of stock in the upper corner where the top of the unit meets the back and then screw that to the studs. This is like what you would see for upper kitchen cabinets) If you have any room left on top of the case, you could do the same thing on the very top and it would be out of sight. You could even use 3 "L" brackets.


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## wonderwoman (Feb 11, 2009)

Shelving unit, bookcase, shelf, shelves, potato/potato (that spell check was fun!)
It may be you are renter=anything attached stays, and you don’t want to give permanence to it; talk to the landlord BEFORE hand…wiggle room< get it in writing, an understanding you will remove or leave as a benefit to the property, likely to apply $$ toward deposit if it’s deemed sound for future tenants.

Otherwise and STILL- Bill is right on! Safety first! Really, 7’ tall unit, just think if it fell on you, nevertheless a child…you know what to do.
Shelves/ bookcase case definitely mounted to wall.
Safe in drywall between studs or to the floor (call it safe)
I’ve heard it said- “the best 5 minute job, begins with fifteen minutes of thought”

And FYI- Bill will NOT recommend an ACME safe. Meep.


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## slick225 (Dec 9, 2008)

*Bookcase example and thanks*

Sorry, my terminology could have and should have been better; Bookcase is the intended project. I shooting for something like this: http://bookcases.officefurniture.com/Chocolate-Patina-Side-by-Side-Bookcase-DMI-7684-07.aspx but wider.
Because the bookcase in the site can be purchased I didn't know if it needed to be secured, but sounds like it does. 
I don't have any restrictions as far as wall mounted, but I was thinking of portability. But as you stated Safety is the highest priority. 
Thanks


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## firehawkmph (Apr 26, 2008)

Slick,
If you make a bookcase like the one in the picture and slide it up against the wall without removing the base molding, it won't sit flush up against the wall. You could attach a 3/4 piece of 1x material to the back, up at the top edge to take up the space. If you leave it stick up about 3/4" past the top and securely fasten it to the unit, you could use a few cabinet screws to go through the 1x, drywall, and right into the studs. I would think that should keep it from tipping. 
Mike Hawkins


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