# Book matched miter joint question



## rinn69 (Feb 12, 2016)

I'l try to explain this as best I can and hopefully my "drawing" will clear up any questions.....
So, I am building a set of end tables using QSWO, birdseye maple, and some curly maple. The curly maple legs will have a slight taper to them when finished. But, I would like the legs to have the face grain showing on both sides (front and L or R, depending on your view), so, I want to take the curly maple board, saw it down the middle (dashed lines in pic), bevel that cut (see pic), and then book match the 2 pieces at 90 degrees and fill in the back with a block of maple to make it appear to be solid, which, I guess it will be, but just not 1 solid board. ***The "A" and "B" denote the face side of the board in all views*** 


Now for the questions---
1---What would be the best way to accomplish this joint ? Biscuits ? Spline ? Glue only ?
2---How to clamp it.... Do the miter joint first ? Glue each side to the backing block separately ?
3---Is there a specialty clamp for a joint like this ?

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated !!! Thanks !!!


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## rinn69 (Feb 12, 2016)

Never mind.....just found a "lock miter" router bit, which should answer my question.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*not all that easy to setup....*


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

If you have a good sharp blade you shouldn't need anything fancy, a butt joint would work. just shoot a nail in at the top and bottom to keep the joint together and clamp it. If you wanted to put a spline in it that would even be better.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

I call that wrapping, the grain wraps around the leg.


as far as the process. cut all of the parts and do a dry fit. if it looks like the miters will close well enough, then I think you would be better attaching to the core as you go. assemble all 3 pieces at the same time. my $0.02


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

Stickley did that on Arts and Crafts furniture to have quarter sawn faces on all four sides of the leg. Here's a picture of the joints he made. 

I think one of the keys will be to have your wood well jointed so it's dead flat and squared. Anything else and the joints will show gaps. I love the idea of the lock miter bit, but it requires that you make the full depth cut in one pass for each side. One with it lying flat and with the mating piece standing on edge. Just sounds scary to me.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

*Here's a link showing how to do it*

I found a link that shows how to make the Stickley joint on a table saw.

http://www.smittysplace.net/stickleyleg/index.html


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## rinn69 (Feb 12, 2016)

Thanks for all the replies !!! After looking at the miter lock set-up, and the fact of running one piece flat and the other vertical, it does look intimidating. I knew "book matching" wasn't the correct terminology, but its been 25+ yrs since I've been serious about woodworking. After thinking about all the ways to do this, I think I'll go with a splined miter joint...simple, yet strong and should be easier to clamp with the spline in there.


Thanks again for the replies and suggestions...and the terminology correction


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## GoIrish (Jan 29, 2012)

Quickstep said:


> I found a link that shows how to make the Stickley joint on a table saw. http://www.smittysplace.net/stickleyleg/index.html


 I like that. It probably is not as easy as it looks.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

rinn69 said:


> Thanks again for the replies and suggestions...and the terminology correction


I don't know what the correct terminology for this process is Mike, I just call it that. keep us in the loop.


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