# advice on stain for douglas fir



## Ryan Pfeifer (Jun 30, 2020)

Hi everyone,

So I am really completely new to this type of work. I am restoring a custom bed my father made for me as a child so my son can use it now. The bed was made of Douglas Fir. I have sanded using 100 grit sandpaper and removed the prior stain and poly. I would like to try to preserve the natural look of the wood, but would also like to try to make the colors of each piece more uniform, as some pieces have a lighter color and others have more of a red-ish hue. So I was thinking of using a stain to bring them together. I was initially considering a gel stain, but seems that may take away from the wood grain appearance. Then I was consider an oil stain, but I am reading that I would need to use a wood conditioner first since douglas fir has a tendency to be blochy. So I would be very interested in any feedback you have on what might be the best approach.


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## terryh (Nov 11, 2013)

I think it would help if you posted a photo so we can all see what you’re dealing with. I’ve made a lot of furniture from Douglas Fir (click on my photos) and staining it can be done with a good outcome. It all comes down to what you’re looking for and what you like. For sure you want to use a wood conditioner to reduce blotchiness. When I’ve stained it I’ve used a dark walnut wipe on stain.


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## redeared (Feb 7, 2019)

With new pine I do use a conditioner, older wood rarely. On pine I really like early american stain, with special walnut/colonial maple coming in second, just my opinion cause it matches a lot of the furniture we have.


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## Ryan Pfeifer (Jun 30, 2020)

So here are the pictures of the Douglas Fir I am working with, along with my “shop” setup, aka 2 trash cans an a drop cloth. I still have the headboard pieces to get, so I will have those this weekend. I also attached the images of what this wood was stained before. Again, the goal is to keep a light color but try to match up the pieces, as I really love the color and pattern of the two side bars for the bed.


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## Shop_Rat (Dec 22, 2015)

I've always found it very difficult to stain different colored base woods to be the same color when finished. It's kind of like a car. Dark primer makes the top coat darker, regardless of color. Light primer makes the exact same color paint lighter.

You might start with a single coat (or whatever depth color you choose) on the dark pieces and then apply several extra treatments to the lighter woods. But regardless of the type stain used, I would absolutely start with wood conditioner. Softwoods are prone to blotchy- period. The stuff is easy to use; almost like water to apply. And it will help immensely with whatever evening out the stain you apply (oil based).


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

That grade of fir will tend to blotch and have much different absorption rates. If you are looking for an even finish I would seal everything with a good quality shellac. You are usually best off mixing your own. Don't be afraid, it is very easy. Dissolve the flakes in denatured alcohol according the instructions. For the color I would tone the wood instead of staining. Toning is the process of adding color to either shellac, or your clear coat, usually with analine dyes. The upside is you can build your color to the level you like and the color will be very consistent. The only downside is there can be very slight muting of the grain, but I really have not experienced that unless going very dark like a cappuccino.


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## mattswabb (Oct 28, 2013)

I built my kitchen cabinets with Douglas fir. I used garnet shellac and they came out great. I bought the flakes and mixed myself. 10 coats. Then poly finish. It did take a bit of practice using a rag/pad to apply. 

I tried different stains and non blotching stuff and conditioners and nothing looked right.


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## Ryan Pfeifer (Jun 30, 2020)

terryh said:


> I think it would help if you posted a photo so we can all see what you’re dealing with. I’ve made a lot of furniture from Douglas Fir (click on my photos) and staining it can be done with a good outcome. It all comes down to what you’re looking for and what you like. For sure you want to use a wood conditioner to reduce blotchiness. When I’ve stained it I’ve used a dark walnut wipe on stain.


Thanks for the feedback. The main thing we are looking to do is maintain as close to we can the natural look of the wood but provide a finish that is durable, as this is going to be kids furniture. I can tell you through the process of sanding and removing the prior polyurethane finish, we really beat this bed set as kids. Lots of little dings, bumps and scratches. Unfortunately, that has left the wood somewhat scarred even after I sanded it all down, as you may or may not be able to see from the photos.


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## Ryan Pfeifer (Jun 30, 2020)

B Coll said:


> That grade of fir will tend to blotch and have much different absorption rates. If you are looking for an even finish I would seal everything with a good quality shellac. You are usually best off mixing your own. Don't be afraid, it is very easy. Dissolve the flakes in denatured alcohol according the instructions. For the color I would tone the wood instead of staining. Toning is the process of adding color to either shellac, or your clear coat, usually with analine dyes. The upside is you can build your color to the level you like and the color will be very consistent. The only downside is there can be very slight muting of the grain, but I really have not experienced that unless going very dark like a cappuccino.


If I understand, any stan or finish used will never lighten the grain of the wood, will only darken it, unless you paint it, correct? I just am not looking to heavily darken the wood. We like the light nature of the wood and prefer to keep it that way. Our main goal is to keep it close to natural, maybe just enhance the grain structure, and give it strong protection. DO you think shellac would hold up as a kids furniture? Since it will definitely take it's licks.


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## JohnGi (May 9, 2019)

Shellac is a great way to start a wood finish. It's forgiving, dries fast, hardens even on oily woods, sticks to itself like mad so you can build up film thickness. It is not as durable a finish as varnish or polyurethane. It waterstains, and alcohol will always soften it. It is less abrasion resistant.

I use shellac under mineral spirits based polyurethane which is a more durable top coat. The last can I bought said it was not compatible with polyurethane, which was news to me. I think it meant not compatible with water based polyurethane.

You say you sanded with 100 grit paper. Did you stop there? Usually final sanding is done with a finer grit. Sanding scratches become more visible when a finish is applied, especially if you use a stain.


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## Ryan Pfeifer (Jun 30, 2020)

JohnGi said:


> Shellac is a great way to start a wood finish. It's forgiving, dries fast, hardens even on oily woods, sticks to itself like mad so you can build up film thickness. It is not as durable a finish as varnish or polyurethane. It waterstains, and alcohol will always soften it. It is less abrasion resistant.
> 
> I use shellac under mineral spirits based polyurethane which is a more durable top coat. The last can I bought said it was not compatible with polyurethane, which was news to me. I think it meant not compatible with water based polyurethane.
> 
> You say you sanded with 100 grit paper. Did you stop there? Usually final sanding is done with a finer grit. Sanding scratches become more visible when a finish is applied, especially if you use a stain.


Yes, I stopped at the 100 grit. What I had read online is that with douglas fir, if I sand beyond the 100/120, this will start to close the wood pores and affect the ability of the wood to accept stain. Is this inaccurate?


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