# Questions Regarding Full Overlay Kitchen Cabinet Doors



## kinghong1970 (Jul 28, 2011)

Hello folks.

first of many questions to come... 
updating our 30 year old kitchen cabinets... the cabinet frames seems to be in decent condition... some areas of laminates peeling but so far, nothing that seems to need replacement...

quick update would be to replace the doors with a more modern design.

the cabinet doors are full overlay (no face frame, melamine box)

question is, how much space is needed between 2 doors so they open/close with ease?

i've measured my existing cabinet doors and they range from 1/8" to up to 1/4"... 

thanks in advance for your help


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

kinghong1970 said:


> Hello folks.
> 
> first of many questions to come...
> updating our 30 year old kitchen cabinets... the cabinet frames seems to be in decent condition... some areas of laminates peeling but so far, nothing that seems to need replacement...
> ...


You can almost make them back to back on a divider if you have to. I usually gap 1/8" max. A close fit would be 3/32". This holds true for most all euro hinges (a few exceptons).












 







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## kinghong1970 (Jul 28, 2011)

tyvm for the quick reply c-man!

so if i understand you correctly,

1) if i have 2 wall hung cabinets that are 30" in width, each holding 2 doors, then the total 4 doors assembled should show 1/8" gap at all edges? including between the 2 doors that are hung on top of the seam of the 30" cabinets?

2) if i have one longer cabinet with a 3/4" vertical partition in the middle, then this will be a "half overlay" since each of the doors cover half of the partition and again, 1/8" visible after installation and adjustments?

3) as for "few exceptions" i'm thinking of updating the hinges to them fancy blum self close hinges... are these the exceptions?

4) for drawers, 1/8" space between drawers is feasible or am i going to kick myself later on?

drawer face and doors will most likely be made of 3/4" hardwood plywood and edge banding.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

kinghong1970 said:


> tyvm for the quick reply c-man!
> 
> so if i understand you correctly,
> 
> 1) if i have 2 wall hung cabinets that are 30" in width, each holding 2 doors, then the total 4 doors assembled should show 1/8" gap at all edges? including between the 2 doors that are hung on top of the seam of the 30" cabinets?


Where your two 30" cabinets come together, allow 1/16" to the edge with a full overlay. That'll give you the 1/8".



kinghong1970 said:


> 2) if i have one longer cabinet with a 3/4" vertical partition in the middle, then this will be a "half overlay" since each of the doors cover half of the partition and again, 1/8" visible after installation and adjustments?


Yes, each door would be a partial overlay (9mm), either done with the hinge, or a full overlay hinge and a 9mm plate.



kinghong1970 said:


> 3) as for "few exceptions" i'm thinking of updating the hinges to them fancy blum self close hinges... are these the exceptions?


Off the top of my head the Blum Compact series.



kinghong1970 said:


> 4) for drawers, 1/8" space between drawers is feasible or am i going to kick myself later on?


Between drawer fronts is OK. Between drawer box height should have more clearance.



kinghong1970 said:


> drawer face and doors will most likely be made of 3/4" hardwood plywood and edge banding.


That's fine.












 







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## kinghong1970 (Jul 28, 2011)

Thank you very much...

now back to sketchup...

and dang... saw some ropey cherry plywood and i am amazed... hmm... 









think this has too much pattern for a modern/contemporary european style kitchen?
i've seen this used for a more traditional kitchen whereas the modern european vendors such as scavolini uses more of a horizontal grained (quatersawn) textured veneers...


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

kinghong1970 said:


> Thank you very much...
> 
> now back to sketchup...
> 
> ...


As plain as a slab door kitchen can appear, that particular pattern might prove very interesting.












 







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## kinghong1970 (Jul 28, 2011)

call me nuts but... i'm actually thinking about adding figures and textures on the lower drawer/wall shelving units and use basic quartersawn cherry for the upper cabinets to simplify a bit...

the ropey cherry ply that they have is mdf core... while this is fine for the vertical drawer faces and doors, not sure how they will be for horizontal applications such as shelves/island tops... i've read that mdf core may sag more than ply... not that ply does not sag...


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