# Knotty Pine Installation



## Tackle Anything (Nov 19, 2012)

I am installing 6" t&g knotty pine on a cathedral ceiling. The board ends do not have the t&g on them....they are just butt joints. Do the joints need to land on a truss, or since the joint is captured by the t&g from the boards above and below, can the joint end up between the trusses?


----------



## rrbell (Oct 22, 2012)

Tackle Anything said:


> I am installing 6" t&g knotty pine on a cathedral ceiling. The board ends do not have the t&g on them....they are just butt joints. Do the joints need to land on a truss, or since the joint is captured by the t&g from the boards above and below, can the joint end up between the trusses?


You can get a set of router bits to cut your own t&g's on the ends. It's always better to end up with your butt ends on a nailer of some kind. It creates more waste but usually not that much. How thick is your t&g ? If its at least 3/4" with the 6" width it would be pretty stable.


----------



## Tackle Anything (Nov 19, 2012)

The t&G is 3/4". 

I guess I could even put a scrap board behind the joint for added support.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I believe I would just use biscuits on the ends of the boards. Unless one of the boards cups you would never have a problem. I've seen a lot of knotty paneling put together with just butt joints and nothing but air behind it.


----------



## Dominick (May 2, 2011)

I agree with Steve on the biscuits. Or getting a router bit to do the tongue and groove. 
Or just miter the ends.


----------



## Treeoflifestairs.com (Jan 9, 2012)

At least end it on a joist that you can nail into.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tackle Anything said:


> I am installing 6" t&g knotty pine on a cathedral ceiling. The board ends do not have the t&g on them....they are just butt joints. Do the joints need to land on a truss, or since the joint is captured by the t&g from the boards above and below, can the joint end up between the trusses?


Is there a ceiling other than the joists? If there is, you can just shoot a brad nail or two. If there isn't, always landing on a joist will give a line of attachment (seam wise) on the overall look. Butt type joints for random lengths should be random.

I have used a slot cutter and had splines ready to go. Since the long edges are captive, the ends will likely not get that outta whack. T&G'ing the ends may have a good look, but whether it's a more finished look is questionable as it can draw attention to the board ends.










 







.


----------



## Tackle Anything (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks everyone. I think I'll stick with the old tried and true method of landing on a rafter. It is a little more waste, but I'll never have any question that it was done right.


----------



## Homewright (Nov 30, 2012)

I like using a scarf joint on my ends, gluing them and landing them on a joist. Just my preference but if you take care and select matching grains, the effect approaches seamlessness. I did a patio ceiling using this method, did minimal sanding of the joints then shot the whole thing with poly. One thing you have to watch out for is varying widths of your t & g. There can be up to 1/4" variation in widths so presize mating boards before cutting and setting.


----------

