# Wood Rasps and Files



## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Don't see much on wood rasps and files. What do you use and why? OR do you use them at all?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I use mainly Nicholson rasps because of the price point on them but I also have 4-5 hand stitched Italian rasps that are freaking sweet.

They are more expensive but hand stitched rasps perform better because the random pattern prevents them from clogging as quickly but the main reason for using them is they cut more cleanly with less gouging. The machine stitched rasps like those from Nicholson have a repeating pattern which tends to result in furrows.

If you do any shaping work like tool handles are carved cornices an assortment of sizes and grains is invaluable. 

You can buy brass brushes intended for cleaning them but I rather use a very stiff nylon bristle brush so I run less risk of dulling them. After use, I clean them and spray a light coating of mineral spirits with a bit of wax dissolved into it to keep them from rusting.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I hardly ever use wood rasps or files. They leave a rough surface that needs a secondary operation to correct. I guess it depends on what you want to do. Some like riflers on carvings where a textured surface is desired. On smooth shapes, I'd rather use a spoke shave, draw knife, scrapers or sanding drums and shaped blocks. There just aren't many tasks that I do that a rasp or file would be useful but you may do things where they would be. 

The French hand made Auriou rasps are probably the finest available but come with a high price.
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TAU


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

firemedic said:


> I use mainly Nicholson rasps because of the price point on them but I also have 4-5 hand stitched Italian rasps that are freaking sweet.
> 
> They are more expensive but hand stitched rasps perform better because the random pattern prevents them from clogging as quickly but the main reason for using them is they cut more cleanly with less gouging. The machine stitched rasps like those from Nicholson have a repeating pattern which tends to result in furrows.
> 
> ...


 Where did you come up with the "HAND STITCHED" variety?


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Hammer1 said:


> I hardly ever use wood rasps or files. They leave a rough surface that needs a secondary operation to correct. I guess it depends on what you want to do. Some like riflers on carvings where a textured surface is desired. On smooth shapes, I'd rather use a spoke shave, draw knife, scrapers or sanding drums and shaped blocks. There just aren't many tasks that I do that a rasp or file would be useful but you may do things where they would be.
> 
> The French hand made Auriou rasps are probably the finest available but come with a high price.
> http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TAU


 I read about people using files to shape templates and so forth...I only have metal files and a 4 in 1. I have had no luck what so ever in shaping any hardwood with files. I end up using chisels, planes, dremel etc...I do however have a yen to take a good file and shape hardwood.


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 23, 2010)

As Firemedic has said there is a world of difference between machine made and hand stitched rasps. Once you've tried a hand stitched the price difference isn't as large a concern. There are applications where a rasp would be the preferred choice.

Another tool seldom used but along similar lines are floats.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Keith Mathewson said:


> As Firemedic has said there is a world of difference between machine made and hand stitched rasps. Once you've tried a hand stitched the price difference isn't as large a concern. There are applications where a rasp would be the preferred choice.
> 
> Another tool seldom used but along similar lines are floats.


 Soooo...Do you opt for a round file and a flat file or rasp or do you need an assortment of files. I realize that it depends largely on what you are doing but I find that while it is nice to have a lot of tools, you can do just as good of work with a few tools and a lot of patience.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Hammer, I think you might be surprised with how smooth a fine grain rasp can cut. It's like working with sandpaper - start course for rough stock hogging and move progressively finer.

Auriou's and a few other Co's offer hand stitched rasps. A good place to start though is a set of Nicholson 49 & 50 cabinet rasps. It will leave you wanting better but the price/performance is a good introduction to the use of them.

I believe Swartz has a video review of the Auriou rasp somewhere, that might be worth a look too.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

firemedic said:


> Hammer, I think you might be surprised with how smooth a fine grain rasp can cut. It's like working with sandpaper - start course for rough stock hogging and move progressively finer.
> 
> Auriou's and a few other Co's offer hand stitched rasps. A good place to start though is a set of Nicholson 49 & 50 cabinet rasps. It will leave you wanting better but the price/performance is a good introduction to the use of them.
> 
> I believe Swartz has a video review of the Auriou rasp somewhere, that might be worth a look too.


 So the answer is that one does need a good assortment of rasps and files if he is interested in shaping wood effectively.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Good point Keith on the floats! That pretty relevant here. I don't own any myself but that's going to change soon. I've been building planes and really need to pick up a couple. I keep holding off because I want to make a few from old files - can't be too tough, huh!?


Burkhome, the cabinet rasps I recommend above are rounded on one side and flat on the other. "Cabinet" rasps are usually about 8" long and with that combination shape.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

burkhome said:


> So the answer is that one does need a good assortment of rasps and files if he is interested in shaping wood effectively.


It depends what you are doing, really. A couple to start with will get you going and from there you should get an idea as to what other sizes, grains and profiles you want. You might even want rifflers.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

firemedic said:


> It depends what you are doing, really. A couple to start with will get you going and from there you should get an idea as to what other sizes, grains and profiles you want. You might even want rifflers.


 Mostly, I think I would use them when creating templates. It is aggravation when I file with my 4-in-1 and then have to sand and sand and sand.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

That 4 in 1 probably has two very course rasps and two mill files - quite a difference from medium and file grain rasps. 

Files, despite marketing attempts, are for metal... and ONLY metal. They are useless for wood. Files don't clog with metal, they ain't worth a single bean on wood.


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

firemedic said:


> That 4 in 1 probably has two very course rasps and two mill files - quite a difference from medium and file grain rasps.
> 
> Files, despite marketing attempts, are for metal... and ONLY metal. They are useless for wood. Files don't clog with metal, they ain't worth a single bean on wood.


 Quite right on the 4 in 1...Guess I'll have to investigate a wood rasp or two and just experience it to know what I want...Thanks for the info.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

You bet! Good questions! I'm sure you are not the only one considering trying em out.


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks everyone for this thread. I'm planning on trying to make some saw handles this winter and been trying to figure out how I was going to do some shaping and smoothing without killing myself with sandpaper. 

To continue the questions, is there a standard numbering/sizing system for rasps? In looking at a couple of makers they reference their sizes/numbering system to the Nicholson sizes. I assume this is because the Nicholson brand is more common and more known than some?

For example, Auriou says their numbers indicate tooth size and that a #8 approximates a Nicholson #50. Another maker Vallorbe describes their rasps by "grain" and indicate that a #6 grain rasp replaces the Nicholson #50. So, is there an actual unit to the tooth size that Auriou uses (teeth/sq in. or teeth/sq cm as they are a European Co)?? or the grain size used by Vallorbe?

BTW, I really appreciate the recommendation of the Nicholson #49/50 as a starting point!


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Hmmmm, I don't have enough different brands to know what the equivalents are 

There has got to be a chart floating around the net somewhere though. 

Did ya see the thread I recently bumped about refurbishing hand saws? There is a handle I made there and shaped with rasps. You might consider rifflers too for saw handles, knobs and totes.


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## railaw (Nov 15, 2011)

What's a float?


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Here is a good write up on grain size:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/more/AU-Info.html

The video from Schwartz on rasps:
http://youtube.com/#/watch?v=bkizsqzOewY&desktop_uri=/watch?v=bkizsqzOewY


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

railaw said:


> What's a float?


It's a half breed between a file and a rasp with a dash of chisel and block plane :laughing:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?cat=534


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## tc65 (Jan 9, 2012)

firemedic said:


> Hmmmm,
> There has got to be a chart floating around the net somewhere though.


Yeah, I was just being lazy on a Sunday afternoon......

Did some looking around and here are a couple of links. The first is an article from "Tools For Working Wood" describing in general terms the "stitching" and "grain" of hand made rasps.
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/more/AU-Info.html

Here is a link to a French toolmaker of hand cut rasps. There is a picture of the different grain "sizes" and lots of other information as well on this page:

http://www.liogier-france.fr/woodworking?lang=en

Edit: firemedic beat me to it on the first link.........


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

Some of those rasps out there will definitely break the bank. I am going to start with the suggested Nicholson #49 & 50 and see where that takes me. Thanks again for all your experience and suggestions.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I'm excited to see what you come up with. Please let us know how it goes for ya!

Again great questions... and for the record there are no stupid questions - but I have come across quite a few inquisitive idiots :laughing:


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## burkhome (Sep 5, 2010)

firemedic said:


> I'm excited to see what you come up with. Please let us know how it goes for ya!
> 
> Again great questions... and for the record there are no stupid questions - but I have come across quite a few inquisitive idiots :laughing:


 Thanks and by the way if you avatar is you, I have a picture of my son on the wall that could be you with glasses. He was a Navy Corpsman for 8 years and got put out with a heart problem.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

That's my Grandfather that had passed away. I changed it to remember him and honor his service for Veteran's Day.

That said, we look eerily alike.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

For those still interested / curious and now that I'm at the shop -

Left to right, 

Double Cut Mill File

Course Machine Stitched Rasp (similar to Nicholson 49) from Arcade

Medium Hand Stitched Rasp by McCaffrey


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