# EZ PRO Dovetailer 860 by General Tools



## gideon (May 26, 2010)

I just got one of these on sale for $20 at home depot. I need to practice more with it but it's pretty easy to setup and work with. 

Anybody have experience with these?


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

do you by chance have a link to the product? couldn't find it on the home depot site.


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## Dave Paine (May 30, 2012)

Wood4Brains said:


> do you by chance have a link to the product? couldn't find it on the home depot site.


Sometimes it can be frustrating to navigate to find something on a site. I used a search engine.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/genera...-dovetail-jig-kit-ii-374472.html#.UFtqBK45slk

Woodcraft "upgraded" their site and now I have just about given up on navigation. One step forward, three steps back.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

Wow, that seems like it would be a pretty good bargain for $20.

It's funny but I am assuming (and you know what they say when you assume) that it is a jig for routers, no?

You wouldn't realize it was for routers until you read about two-thirds of the way through the description, though.

One quick question about this jig (and dovetailing with routers in general):

I have read where it is recommended to use a straight bit to remove the bulk of the material first BEFORE using the dovetail bit, as dovetail bits remove a LOT of material (due to the fact that you need to make a single pass at full depth with a dovetail bit, as opposed to making several passes at progressive 1/8th inch depths, which you CAN do with a straight bit).

However, in the Gary Rogowski video, he makes a single pass at full depth with the dovetail bits while using his jigs.

So I wonder if anyone has any advice regarding this?

~~~~

As for the original poster's question, it seems that version 2 of this jig is much higher rated than version 1 of the jig.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

I've had that jig for a couple of years but don't use it very often, shoot, I don't make dovetails very often. 
Anyway, IMHO, it is very easy to use and no limit to the drawer height is a big plus. It can be used with either a hand held router or on a router table. The bearing guided bit precludes the need to use guide bushings. You can make shallow cuts, just don't drive all the way into the wood. You are controlling the depth by how far you push into the stock. The bearing just prevents you from going the wrong places. The jig does a nice job on half blinds which it was really designed for. Through dovetails can be done but it is a bit tricky and the results look a little funny with the rounded tails. 
Hope this helps:smile:


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Wood4Brains said:


> Wow, that seems like it would be a pretty good bargain for $20.
> 
> It's funny but I am assuming (and you know what they say when you assume) that it is a jig for routers, no?
> 
> ...


For what I need to do with this jig, yes, it was a bargain for 20 bux. At $60, it's pretty good to. I won't have a problem buying the updated version when that time comes. And, yes, it's for routers.

As far as using a straight bit to clear out the bulk of material, I can see that need for a sliding dovetail but not so much with this type of jig. You can move at a slower pace and there isn't as much build up of material as you cut. With a sliding dovetail, a lot material will jam behind the bit causing heat up, burning and can cause the router to start binding up. Not to mention the heat on the bit which will dull it much faster.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

jschaben said:


> I've had that jig for a couple of years but don't use it very often, shoot, I don't make dovetails very often.
> Anyway, IMHO, it is very easy to use and no limit to the drawer height is a big plus. It can be used with either a hand held router or on a router table. The bearing guided bit precludes the need to use guide bushings. You can make shallow cuts, just don't drive all the way into the wood. You are controlling the depth by how far you push into the stock. The bearing just prevents you from going the wrong places. The jig does a nice job on half blinds which it was really designed for. Through dovetails can be done but it is a bit tricky and the results look a little funny with the rounded tails.
> Hope this helps:smile:


Great description. Yes, it is great for half blind which is what I need to do for a few commissions I'm working on. 

One thing about the guide bearing, I need to get more of them to stack. They have a habit of riding up the shank and screwing up the cut. 

So, where can I get more of the bearings/bushing for a 1/4" shank?


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

gideon said:


> Great description. Yes, it is great for half blind which is what I need to do for a few commissions I'm working on.
> 
> One thing about the guide bearing, I need to get more of them to stack. They have a habit of riding up the shank and screwing up the cut.
> 
> So, where can I get more of the bearings/bushing for a 1/4" shank?


 http://www.woodworkersworld.net/ball_bearings_arbors.shtml

Cheapest place I've found, most will kill ya on shipping. 
Peachtree, MLCS and some others sell bearing kits which have a bunch of bearings of various sizes, few of which it looked to me I'd ever use so buying individual made more sense to me as long as shipping was reasonable. 
Been awhile since I used that jig and I forgot about that little trick it pulls.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

thanks very much for the link!


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

I must say, as a balance to the positive, that the build quality is pretty crappy. I would love it if the depth plate were made of aluminum and could lock into place without driving screws into the workpiece. 

Other than that, I am loving this inexpensive, space efficient and accurate jig.


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## jschaben (Apr 1, 2010)

gideon said:


> I must say, as a balance to the positive, that the build quality is pretty crappy. I would love it if the depth plate were made of aluminum and could lock into place without driving screws into the workpiece.
> 
> Other than that, I am loving this inexpensive, space efficient and accurate jig.


 
My biggest whine about the quality are the clamps.:yes:


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## lateralus819 (Jul 22, 2012)

Its great for a beginner who wants to try dovetails out but after using it and practicing with it for a few months, it's deffinitely not for fine finish work. 

To me it left a very inaccurate fit. Some of my doves have gaps here and there while others are tight. Not sure what did it or how but for $20, its great to try out. As others said the clamps are terrible.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

yes, as I've been practicing with it, I am seeing the gaps too. I think it has to do with the plastic plate being a little proud of the aluminum surface. I'm going to bring it down to flush and re-scribe the measuring gauge.


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## lateralus819 (Jul 22, 2012)

gideon said:


> yes, as I've been practicing with it, I am seeing the gaps too. I think it has to do with the plastic plate being a little proud of the aluminum surface. I'm going to bring it down to flush and re-scribe the measuring gauge.


Thats exactly what i thought it was too! If that could be fixed it would be a killer deal.


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## PSDkevin (Dec 18, 2010)

Wood4Brains said:


> Wow, that seems like it would be a pretty good bargain for $20.
> 
> It's funny but I am assuming (and you know what they say when you assume) that it is a jig for routers, no?
> 
> ...


A dovetail bit has a pretty small "waist". I tried using just the dovetail bit and had 2 of them fail. They were cheapy bits but I can see where even a quality bit could fail at the waist. I guess you can go slow and take light passes but its faster to hog out the material with a straight bit and come back and finish with the dove. Especially if you have more than one router.


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## Wood4Brains (Jul 25, 2012)

> Especially if you have more than one router.


I just checked out the Router Joinery Workshop book by Carol Reed and she says she has FOUR routers. :yes:

By the way, that seems to be a pretty good book so far. Lots of detail and explanation about all the different vocabulary.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

Wood4Brains said:


> I just checked out the Router Joinery Workshop book by Carol Reed and she says she has FOUR routers. :yes:
> 
> By the way, that seems to be a pretty good book so far. Lots of detail and explanation about all the different vocabulary.


I have two. Might get more if I see them going cheap enough at auctions.


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## gideon (May 26, 2010)

well, I've been using this thing for a little while. I was able to compensate for the majority of gap by sanding down the plastic plate flush to the surface of the jig.

but, there is still an issue with movement of the adjustable depth adjustment. it's a real shame as it is such an easy and common sense jig - it should work! but it doesn't because, yet again, a company cuts a corner and goes the cheapest route possible instead of making their stuff just a little bit better. just better enough to work and last. 

for $20, it was a good purchase for banging some quick stuff out but it's not a tool I'll use on better quality stuff. not this one nor the newer release with the better material clamps. 

at least it doesn't take up any real space.


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## BZawat (Sep 21, 2012)

Jig is ok but has limitations. Can only dovetail a 6" section at a time, after that you must move the jig and realign. PITA. Also the soft - and IMO cheap - aluminum frame twists very easily with even the slightest difference in pressure with the thumbscrews, resulting in pins cut too deep and a gap in a half-blind joint. 

That said its a great learner jig.


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