# shellac on red oak floor



## w9977 (Mar 26, 2010)

I am staining 500 sf of red oak floor before a poly coat. I can do the poly all at once but because of various things I can only do the staining in 4 different sessions..
I am using a 1.5 lb cut of dry flakes from the shellac.net store, Just 1 coat. Dont want too much orange.
Hard to believe there is a store that just sells shellac but... I am using the orange de waxed.
Any info from vets on doing multiple sessions for the shellac...?? I am sanding
etc between coats

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2798/4422740341_69de7dcf5d_m.jpg


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

I wouldn't use shellac on any flooring.


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## w9977 (Mar 26, 2010)

if its under poly what does it matter.... i considered doing 2 coats shellac and thats it... some people do.. this aint a high heel house.


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

I like the way shellac pops the grain on oak. It also helps act as a pore filler without the hassle of actually using a pore filler. I always use two coats when finishing oak and I don't sand between the coats, I use a synthetic pad between coats of shellac and then a very light sanding prior to the finish coats. Wiping any residue after scuffing or sanding with a cloth doused in mineral spirits. 500 board feet is a LOT of work so a second coat will add to the effort. But IMHO, will be well worth it in the end. The other nice thing about using a de-waxed shellac (you did get the _*de-waxed*_ stuff didn't you?) is you can apply any top coat over it without worry.

I wouldn't use shellac as a final finish though. Just as a sanding sealer to pop the grain and to start a build to fill the pores a bit.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

The problem with shellac as a sealer on wood flooring IMO, is that its too soft to provide a good base for a topcoat of either oil base polyurethane or waterbased polyurethane.


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

cabinetman said:


> The problem with shellac as a sealer on wood flooring IMO, is that its too soft to provide a good base for a topcoat of either oil base polyurethane or waterbased polyurethane.


Oops... good point CM. I guess the "flooring" part sailed right over my head.... my bad. CM is right about using it on flooring. I can remember when shellac was the finish used on bowling lanes. Yeah, I'm _THAT_ old. :wheelchair: 

By the time they were ready to refinish the lanes (done on a yearly basis back then), they were always pitted and in terrible shape. Now, granted you're likely not going to be bowling on your floor on a regular basis, but it's not terribly hard and you might end up with small indents and marks down the road. Better use something harder.


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## w9977 (Mar 26, 2010)

a lot of houses are no shoes or soft shoes... I just tested some can shellac..
its probably 2-3 lb cut. Its dark enough so I am using 1 coat of the flake at 1.5 lb
and 1 coat of water poly. If it looks dicey down the road , I can always do a scuff sand and add a coat of poly. 
As far as shellac not being hard enough underneath, then why is any stain a poor choice.?? They are no harder and are commonly used under poly. its basically just a stain.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

w9977 said:


> a lot of houses are no shoes or soft shoes... I just tested some can shellac..
> its probably 2-3 lb cut. Its dark enough so I am using 1 coat of the flake at 1.5 lb
> and 1 coat of water poly. If it looks dicey down the road , I can always do a scuff sand and add a coat of poly.
> As far as shellac not being hard enough underneath, then why is any stain a poor choice.?? They are no harder and are commonly used under poly. its basically just a stain.



Stains and dyes basically just color the wood. Their thickness is relatively unmeasurable.


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## w9977 (Mar 26, 2010)

I tested some water poly over the shellac. What a totally mediocre un special finish. Oil based is ridiculously better... but I have had some bad reactions to it
in some cases months after. There might be additional circumstances , I dont know but I better stick with water based. What about waxes over shellac.??? 
That would seal against water right??? Are there any waxes that are fume less???


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

w9977 said:


> I tested some water poly over the shellac. What a totally mediocre un special finish. Oil based is ridiculously better... but I have had some bad reactions to it
> in some cases months after. There might be additional circumstances , I dont know but I better stick with water based. What about waxes over shellac.???
> That would seal against water right??? Are there any waxes that are fume less???



Something tells me you're not looking for advice.


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## JW_in_Indy (Mar 20, 2009)

w9977 said:


> I tested some water poly over the shellac. What a totally mediocre un special finish. Oil based is ridiculously better... but I have had some bad reactions to it
> in some cases months after. There might be additional circumstances , I dont know but I better stick with water based. What about waxes over shellac.???
> That would seal against water right??? Are there any waxes that are fume less???


Pick up a quart of this sanding sealer and try it under your water based Poly. The use of a sanding sealer will also act as a nice build for your water based Poly. They also add a "depth" to the final finish that makes the end result look a lot nicer IMHO. Think of sanding sealer as a "primer" of sorts. You can paint something without using a primer of course, but when using a quality primer under your paint, you get a lot smoother and more durable top coat of paint. You also tend to get better coverage as well. The same concept applies with using a sanding sealer under your finish coats. Your top coats flow out nicer and the end result is a nicer finish.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6358

Of course, FWIW, YMMV, IMHO, just my $0.02 and all that....


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## thekctermite (Dec 23, 2007)

cabinetman said:


> Something tells me you're not looking for advice.


Agreed. :huh:

With the modern finishes available (regardless of shoes or lack thereof in the house), it makes absolutely no sense to use shellac on a floor. The coloration can be obtained in other ways as well.


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