# Table saw tilt problems



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

My contractor type table saw gets really hard to tilt the bade after I get past 25-30 degrees. The hand wheel gets really hard to turn. I actually stripped the tilt screw and had to replace it. I've looked for something bent or warped and can't find anything. I even loosened the tilt screw bearing but no help. I took the saw completely apart (except for removing the trunnions), cleaned everything and reassembled it with dry lube and also installed a PALS kit and realigned the blade/arbor with an A-Line-It. It does this with the belt on or off. I'm tempted to try 20 weight oil like the owner's manual suggests but I'm afraid the oil will just collect sawdust. Graphite maybe? Anybody had this problem and how did you fix it?


----------



## weirdwilbur (Dec 4, 2009)

If the screw handle threads and their receiving nut are in alignment, and you have chased the threads with both a tap and a die, I would expect to find binding somewhere in the assembly. Do the nut threads go through and through? If you are screwing into a blind hole, it may not have been cut deeply enough. I assume you have backed off on any tabletop set screws you might have. Use the oil but don't flood it. One drop per inch on a 1/4" screw is plenty to 'wipe' on a surface layer that will keep you rust-free and travel freely, if the threads are not buggered up. Your situation is probably not caused by a little sawdust. Unless you are concerned about the sawdust getting bound-up in the threads. That should not be an issue if the threads on both mating surfaces are of the same size.


----------



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

weirdwilbur said:


> If the screw handle threads and their receiving nut are in alignment, and you have chased the threads with both a tap and a die, I would expect to find binding somewhere in the assembly. Do the nut threads go through and through? If you are screwing into a blind hole, it may not have been cut deeply enough. I assume you have backed off on any tabletop set screws you might have. Use the oil but don't flood it. One drop per inch on a 1/4" screw is plenty to 'wipe' on a surface layer that will keep you rust-free and travel freely, if the threads are not buggered up. Your situation is probably not caused by a little sawdust. Unless you are concerned about the sawdust getting bound-up in the threads. That should not be an issue if the threads on both mating surfaces are of the same size.


 
I have the saw completely dis assembled except fo the arbor itself (turns freely-no bearing play). The problem lies in the front trunnion. When in it's 90 degree position, it's fine. Almost as soon as the arbor cradle moves about ten degrees or so there is binding in the trunnion. I swapped it with the rear trunnion and there's no binding so the front trunnion itself is where the binding is. There are no obvious burrs or rough spots so I suspect it's either bent slightly or was badly machined. It's no longer available from Sears (it's a Craftsman saw), so I may take it to a machine shop and have them look at it and see what they can do with it.


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*How about a photo of the trunnions?*

I have some trunnions from an older 10 Craftsman saw. They might work. But I won't know without a photo. :thumbsup: bill


----------



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> I have some trunnions from an older 10 Craftsman saw. They might work. But I won't know without a photo. :thumbsup: bill


 
Here's a couple of pics. Also, the casting number on it is H161997-001 or 002 I think/ Kind of hard to read


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Question*

Will it "bind" when the arbor assembly is off the saw and you just rotate the trunnion around the mating piece on the assembly. Or does the whole thing have to be assembled in the table. It could be that one of the bolt holes needs to be enlarged for proper location. Or if you can hand fit it by using a Dremel with a fine drum to sand away the high spot using marking dye and just checking the fit every so often, removing a minimum about of material. This would be better than a machine shop which might open the slot too much even though it might be true, but too large. :thumbsup: bill
BTW I'll check to see if the ones I have are similiar in the AM


----------



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Will it "bind" when the arbor assembly is off the saw and you just rotate the trunnion around the mating piece on the assembly. Or does the whole thing have to be assembled in the table. It could be that one of the bolt holes needs to be enlarged for proper location. Or if you can hand fit it by using a Dremel with a fine drum to sand away the high spot using marking dye and just checking the fit every so often, removing a minimum about of material. This would be better than a machine shop which might open the slot too much even though it might be true, but too large. :thumbsup: bill
> BTW I'll check to see if the ones I have are similiar in the AM


It binds with it off the machine and just assembling it to the mating piece. I had thought about using my dremel and maybe some polishing rouge to do that. Not being a machinist I don't know what to use as a dye though to locate and mark the high spots and how to do that. Any suggestions?


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Machinist Marking Dye*

Spray can or Brush on at any Industrial tool supply or Automotive supply house. A thin spray on lacquer like a touch up paint would work, nothin' fancy here. My Dremel has a 1/2" x 1/2" sanding drum that would work just fine. Keep the original angle to the mating surfaces, probably vertical. Marker dye or paint both parts lightly then fit and see where the paint gets rubbed off. Paint a little, sand a little, check. You should have this working in no time. There are some dryslide compounds used on mating surfaces or a heavy bodied silicone after it sliding well. 
:thumbsup: bill


----------



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> Spray can or Brush on at any Industrial tool supply or Automotive supply house. A thin spray on lacquer like a touch up paint would work, nothin' fancy here. My Dremel has a 1/2" x 1/2" sanding drum that would work just fine. Keep the original angle to the mating surfaces, probably vertical. Marker dye or paint both parts lightly then fit and see where the paint gets rubbed off. Paint a little, sand a little, check. You should have this working in no time. There are some dryslide compounds used on mating surfaces or a heavy bodied silicone after it sliding well.
> :thumbsup: bill


I've also read that a sharpie works for locating high spots. Seems to work. I tried it on a flat surface and ran a metal rule over it. Scratched right through it.


----------



## weirdwilbur (Dec 4, 2009)

You are on the right track with the sharpie. I have to fuss a bit with the sharpie ink to get it to cover and it's hopeless on oil. And I use it all the time. Back in the day the machine shop industry standard dye came in a screw-top can with a brush attached to the inside of the cap, just like, and the same size, as the cans of goo for assembling PVC pipe. It was spelled oddly on the can. "Dycum" is a possibility. I would still be using it if I could find it because it was a sure-fired marker. The main advantage was it's bright blue color which was easier to see than the black of the sharpie, and it's easily removed with acetone. Does anyone have a brand name for whatever is being used today?


----------



## John in Tennessee (Jun 11, 2008)

*Has It Always Been This Way?*

Kind of makes you wonder...


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Wonder What?*

quote=John in Tennessee;107464]Kind of makes you wonder...[/quote]:blink:
Has* what *always been this way? :huh: 

Can you finish your thought here for the slower one's like me?:yes: bill


----------



## xphnmn (Dec 7, 2009)

Yeah! For me too.


----------

