# 2" long x 1/4" deep recess



## LaJaSi (Aug 22, 2012)

Currently, I am making small crates that require 3 hinges. The framework of the crate is 3/4" pine, and my clients prefer the hinges to be recessed. As of now, I am using a dado blade to make the recess, having to make several passes to achieve the 2" length. As a relatively new woodworker, I am sure there must be a more efficient way. Any suggestions?


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

It sounds like you are crosscutting 3/4" stock, on edge.
If doing each crate, before making another, switching to a dado blade, and back on the ts, would take a lot of time.
In this case, I would make a simple jig and use a router.
If doing a lot of dados for lots of crates, at one time, the ts, and dado, might be the fastest way. You could stack a bunch together, and cut at one time.


----------



## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

LaJaSi said:


> Currently, I am making small crates that require 3 hinges. The framework of the crate is 3/4" pine, and my clients prefer the hinges to be recessed. As of now, I am using a dado blade to make the recess, having to make several passes to achieve the 2" length. As a relatively new woodworker, I am sure there must be a more efficient way. Any suggestions?


Something just doesn't sound right. If the orientation of the hinges requires the recess on the edge as Pirate pointed out, ¼" sounds pretty deep. What is the exact layout you are describing?









 







.


----------



## LaJaSi (Aug 22, 2012)

cabinetman said:


> Something just doesn't sound right. If the orientation of the hinges requires the recess on the edge as Pirate pointed out, ¼" sounds pretty deep. What is the exact layout you are describing?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The hinges are oriented in the 3 recesses in the rear of the frame as you can see. I am working on an order of 100 right now and haven't installed the lids as of yet. I am building these in an assembly fashion. I make all the sides first, the front and rear of the frame, etc., etc... One of my clients prefers a recessed hinge so that the lid is not elevated due to the hinge and screws. I think I am going to try the router approach, but I am not extremely familiar with creating jigs to accomplish this. I do understand what each of you have said and very much appreciate your time and help. Just so you understand where I am coming from, I have operated a drill rig for the last 11 years, but came off the road to be with my wife and kids more. I am "giving it a go" as a builder of these boxes that are used in the drilling industry and have been successful for the past 3 months, although not making near the money I was as a driller. I need desperately to become more efficient in order to truly make this a worthwhile venture. Again, I appreciate your help and any tips you can help with in the future. 

God Bless, 

Tim


----------



## LaJaSi (Aug 22, 2012)

lajasi said:


> the hinges are oriented in the 3 recesses in the rear of the frame as you can see. I am working on an order of 100 right now and haven't installed the lids as of yet. I am building these in an assembly fashion. I make all the sides first, the front and rear of the frame, etc., etc... One of my clients prefers a recessed hinge so that the lid is not elevated due to the hinge and screws. I think i am going to try the router approach, but i am not extremely familiar with creating jigs to accomplish this. I do understand what each of you have said and very much appreciate your time and help. Just so you understand where i am coming from, i have operated a drill rig for the last 11 years, but came off the road to be with my wife and kids more. I am "giving it a go" as a builder of these boxes that are used in the drilling industry and have been successful for the past 3 months, although not making near the money i was as a driller. I need desperately to become more efficient in order to truly make this a worthwhile venture. Again, i appreciate your help and any tips you can help with in the future.
> 
> God bless,
> 
> tim


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

Stack a dozen of them together, and cut them on the ras, with a dado blade. Once you had stops set for the fence, it should take about 1 minute to cut them all!
That should be efficient enough!


----------



## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*stack 'em and saw 'em or rout 'em*

+ 1 :thumbsup: If you saw or rout use a backer board to avoid splitting.


----------



## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

I believe the concern earlier on the 1/4" dimension (total mortise depth) is that most 2" hinges do not require a 1/4" deep mortise, even to ensure the lid is sitting flat. I highly recommend you make one test fit before you cut 100 pcs. The mortise needs to be slightly less deep than the hinge, or the lid won't close. There are many ways to make this cut, the dado saw is one. you can stack several boards at a time.

The router jig mentioned will require a template cut-out to match the needed mortise shape, and a cleat on the side to register the jig flat to the board. And, one of 2 router bit styles. a (template) bit with a bearing that would ride along the template while cutting the mortise, or a straight cutting bit and a template insert that affixes to the router base and would follow the template cut-out. This requires the template to have a larger cut-out thasn the needed mortise to acount for the larger insert diameter.


----------



## TS3660 (Mar 4, 2008)

The RAS is a great idea. Another would be to get a cheap TS and set it up with a dado and leave it. The problem I see with a TS vs. a RAS is that it's harder to see your marks on a TS. I would set them up on a RAS and set a stop with (2) 5/8" or so blocks in front of the stop. Slide a stack of boards against the end of the fisrt block and make a cut. Take that first block out, slide the boards against the next block and make a cut. Take that second block out, slide the stack against the stop itself and make a cut. You would have to do this in 3 different spots for the three hinges.


----------



## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I would clamp the stack of boards together, with a shorter board, against the fence, for clamp clearance.
With the dados marked, I would make a few cuts, then for the final cut, just cut a little into the short board against the fence, and check size, with a hinge. Move it over a slight bit, until you get a good fit, and cut the stack. Do the same for the other dados.


----------



## LaJaSi (Aug 22, 2012)

Just wanted to let you all know that I bought a RAS, and it is working perfectly for my application. Thank you for the suggestion, as it was informative and spot on.


----------

