# Sanding Fir for staining



## Bluefilosoff (Mar 25, 2013)

To what grit should I sand a reclaimed fir tabletop? Lots of knots and nail holes. The recipient wants to leave those untouched but wants to stain it. So far I have gone over the entire table with 80 grit. 
Thanks.


----------



## PhilBa (Jun 30, 2014)

In general, you want to get down to something like 220 grit. I'd hit it with 150 next and then 220. You'll probably want to put on a sealer as fir (and pine) tend to take stain unevenly.


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Fir has hard and soft places. You especially don't want to sand too long with find sandpaper. Too much sanding will eat away the soft wood and give it a washboard texture which you won't see until you put a finish on it. From where you are I would briefly sand it with 180 grit paper and proceed with the finish. It will need a wood conditioner prior to staining.


----------



## Mort (Jan 4, 2014)

Steve, would I use wood conditioner if I were applying a teak oil/spar urethane mixture? My brother-in-law used that finish recently (no stain), and I don't think he used any conditioner, but would it be better?


----------



## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Mort said:


> Steve, would I use wood conditioner if I were applying a teak oil/spar urethane mixture? My brother-in-law used that finish recently (no stain), and I don't think he used any conditioner, but would it be better?


No, the only time you use a wood conditioner is when there is a stain involved. The conditioner evens out the surface density so the soft spots don't drink up too much pigment.


----------



## BWSmith (Aug 24, 2010)

Like most woods,edge vs face grain not only effects the performance,it creates challenges in the finishing dept.Fir & SYP really test you in the face grain.What you can "get away with" edge grain,may fall flat,getting a prepped surface face side.


----------

