# How to: Crown on kitchen cabinets



## DonG1947 (Nov 14, 2012)

My daughter has put up some new cabinets (she's pretty handy) in a laundry room/mud room. The cabinets came with a section of crown molding she asked me to install. The cabinet run is about 7' and does not go up to the ceiling. The first cabinet on the left is a pantry cabinet that is deeper than the next 2 adjoining cabinets . There are walls on both ends of the cabinet run. I have installed crown in rooms before, but never on cabinets. There is very Little face frame exposed above the doors so nailing to the face frame is not an option. I have conjured up several options in my head on how I might do this, but thought I would ask for some advice before I rent the crane and install the skyhooks

I'm thinking of installing the crown on a piece of wood then fastening the wood to the cabinet top. Am I heading in the right direction? Is there a simpler way? Pictures?

Thanks,
Don


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## Oneal-Woodworking (Apr 14, 2013)

DonG1947 said:


> My daughter has put up some new cabinets (she's pretty handy) in a laundry room/mud room. The cabinets came with a section of crown molding she asked me to install. The cabinet run is about 7' and does not go up to the ceiling. The first cabinet on the left is a pantry cabinet that is deeper than the next 2 adjoining cabinets . There are walls on both ends of the cabinet run. I have installed crown in rooms before, but never on cabinets. There is very Little face frame exposed above the doors so nailing to the face frame is not an option. I have conjured up several options in my head on how I might do this, but thought I would ask for some advice before I rent the crane and install the skyhooks
> 
> I'm thinking of installing the crown on a piece of wood then fastening the wood to the cabinet top. Am I heading in the right direction? Is there a simpler way? Pictures?
> 
> ...


Install the nailer strips FIRST and THEN shoot the crown to them...

You got the right idea though... You want the bottom of the crown to just barely cover the seam between the cabinets and the nailer strips that you shot (or screwed) to the tops of the cabinets...

Small crown is easy to cut if you just bed it into the saw fence exactly like it will lay on the cabinet... Simple 45 or 22.5 deg cuts at best...Some folks bed the stuff upside down against the fence (same difference to me) when doing it like that.

I prefer to lay my crown down and cut it flat when running crown on 'relatively' square cabinets. Compound angles are NOT that darn hard to figure out (especially when MOST compound saws nowdays have the angles printed on them)

Running crown inside a room and on walls is a different matter entirely and takes a LOT more skill. Crown on 'cabinets' is childsplay compared to that in MY opinion... :smile:

More people cut themselves with coping saws than miter saws... :yes:


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

I'm using a brand new computer and my photos are all on the old one. You build a backer that attaches to the top of the cabinets, the crown mounts to that. In some cases, all you need is a length of 1x ripped on a bevel for the angle of the back of the crown. Other times you need to build up a little higher, you might start with a square edge 1/2"- 3/8" thick piece flush with the top of the cabinets, for instance. The bottom cove on most crowns will sit against this while just slightly covering the top edge of the cabinets and then you add a bevel edge piece on top of that for supporting the angled back of the crown, like above. It helps to build the backer as precisely and continuous as you would a molding, fitting nicely in the corners. You have the option of using quick grab type construction adhesive with a continuous backer instead of nails. Attaching the backer to the cabinets can be a chore if they are installed with little room from the tops to the ceiling. Clamp the backer down and use screws up through the top faceframes or cabinet top into the backer. Keep back from ends of the faceframe joints since there may be pocket screws or something else in the joints. I use backers on all kitchen cabinets with crown. It makes for a very rugged attachment vs just some nails in the bottom of the crown molding. 

With crown in a room, you normally cope the inside corners, however, on furniture and cabinetry, you just miter all the corners. I use Devcon all purpose adhesive for the joints and especially for small returns. Water based wood glues will often cause small pieces to warp. The Devcon, and others like it, will quick grab by first pressing together and then leaving open for 30 seconds or so, dries clear and excess will pull off, not damaging the finish. Try to be neat, though. If nails are needed, I use a filler called color putty, press in the hole and buff off the excess. Comes in many colors and they can be kneeded together for other shades.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I have a pretty simple way of adding crown. Since I have to deliver and install, I like to deliver without the crown attached, as it's too easy for it to get damaged, and cabinet boxes can stack better without it.

I set up the cabinets in the shop as they will be in the house. I make a pattern form, as long as I can...usually it's less than 8', so it can come out of sheet goods. It will be ¾" thick and 3"-4" wide. The front edge is 90° and follows the front edge of the face frame. I then cut the crown to fit it, and its easier to do that on the bench than on a cabinet 7' in the air. When installing, just screw it from the inside of the cabinet. You can use trim screws...they have tiny heads.

I miter the corners by just placing the crown bottom edge on the saw table and push it back to the fence, so it sits as it would on the face of the pattern. Cut yourself a wedge to fit behind the crown against the fence to help brace it.Then you don't have to worry about the spring angle, as all you do is swing the saw at 45's or whatever the angle you need. Allow the bottom of the crown to fall below the mounting strip enough to cover the seam.

The stand up miter setup can also look like this...
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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I normally make a wider top rail on a cabinet when I intend to use crown molding and put the top shelf on top of the cabinet extending forward like shown. Since your cabinets are already built you could furr out and add a shelf above it so the trim would fit flush with the top of the cabinet.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Steve Neul said:


> I normally make a wider top rail on a cabinet when I intend to use crown molding and put the top shelf on top of the cabinet extending forward like shown. Since your cabinets are already built you could furr out and add a shelf above it so the trim would fit flush with the top of the cabinet.


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In looking at your model, that would require a pretty large top rail for the FF. It seems that only an inset door would look right. If overlay doors are used, the bottom of the crown would be obscured somewhat, as the bottom of the crown should be in line at least with the back edge of the door. I think it looks better when the back bottom edge of the crown is at the same vertical plane as the front of a door.









 







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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

Actually I never use inset doors. When ever crown molding is planned I just use 4 1/4" to 5" wide top rails and use overlay doors. Visually it looks the same with the doors on the faceframe as if smaller trim was used.


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## DonG1947 (Nov 14, 2012)

Thank you folks, that was helpful. I have canceled the crane

Don


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