# I want to create my own case mold



## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

What I want is very...complex. but also very unlike what I see at most places. I can get 1"x6"x8' oak and poplar for like 5 bucks a board. I saw a style we liked at a local millwork shop. They quoted $3.50 a LF. Instead of paying $5000 on trim I would rather spend $4000 on tools, $1000 on material and have the stuff for my next project. Which is the same thinking that helped me start our business.

So how are these very ornate 4"+ casings and base made? Router table? Shaper? Molder?

I'm confident I could do basic styles pretty easily. But when it gets more complex, are they just the same bits in multiple runs?

I'm going to try to get q picture when I case out our front door today.


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Net30 said:


> So how are these very ornate 4"+ casings and base made? Router table? Shaper? Molder?


Several different approaches can be used. Viewing a cross selection of you tube videos, may help you decide which tools/methods, may best match your individual circumstances.

A shaper with a full profile cutting bit, can make the operation a one step process. Having a custom bit made to your specifications may or may not be cost effective depending on how many linear feet you plan to mill.

Making multiple set ups may cost you more in time and labor.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Do you have picture to better understand what your trying to make... okay.... I see your going to past one later...


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Is the oak and poplar you can get for $5 per board kiln dried? 

Is it rough sawn or s4s (which will make a difference in the equipment you will need).


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

Look at Woodmaster planer/molder/drum sander for an investment getting you started. American made. American customer service.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Woodmaster has the best molding makers I've seen:


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Hope they make a better molder than sander...

I'd still like to see what he's trying to make...


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

The thinking is ok. I justified $3000 of machines when I built our first kitchen. The designer we hired assessed it at $25-30K. We had less than $6k in it and that included the machines. But, that was 20 years ago. The machines are doubled in price, but then again, so have kitchens. 

I’m not discouraging you & need to see pics, but if you’re talking buying a molding machine ($$], or a shaper and cutterheads (which you may never use again) it may be more cost effective to have it milled. If you can do it with a router, then that’s another thing.

Sometimes time the money you save on materials is not what makes the difference, it’s you working for $0/hr.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Paxton lumber company would charge a $100 setup fee and per foot run.

A lot of people think they will just make it till they find out there's more involved..

I'm gonna do my own cabinets and three months later the wife is pissed..


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## GCTony (Apr 5, 2018)

Rebelwork said:


> Paxton lumber company would charge a $100 setup fee and per foot run.
> 
> A lot of people think they will just make it till they find out there's more involved..
> 
> I'm gonna do my own cabinets and three months later the wife is pissed..


I was going to do the same, buy a Williams & Hussy and make my own until I discovered what my real cost would be and the fact that my investment only does one thing well. There a lots of lumber companies that will run custom trim and also have huge libraries of profiles to choose from. Here in Virginia (lots of old homes) it's Siewers Lumber and Millwork.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

This post reminds of the time a lady asked me why cabinets were so high. It's the same thing .Milled materials are high. You want nice fancy trim it's gonna cost.

If this person is building a new house, the contractor may not want to wait. If he's in control of finances, may have the time.


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## B Coll (Nov 2, 2019)

Net30 said:


> What I want is very...complex. but also very unlike what I see at most places. I can get 1"x6"x8' oak and poplar for like 5 bucks a board. I saw a style we liked at a local millwork shop. They quoted $3.50 a LF. Instead of paying $5000 on trim I would rather spend $4000 on tools, $1000 on material and have the stuff for my next project. Which is the same thinking that helped me start our business.
> 
> So how are these very ornate 4"+ casings and base made? Router table? Shaper? Molder?
> 
> ...


If you are going to do small runs of casings, look at the Williams & Hussey. You can run moldings up to a tad over 7". The knives are ground to register with corrugated pre drilled steel, so setup is easy. I used to have one, sorry I sold it, and mad a ton doing round and elliptical moldings. You have to have a separate jig to do rounds. I had a guy build one for me, but I think you can buy them now. I believe the machine is off patent and being made by JET these days too, runs a bit over $1k.


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

Tom-G said:


> Is the oak and poplar you can get for $5 per board kiln dried?
> 
> Is it rough sawn or s4s (which will make a difference in the equipment you will need).


Sounds like air dried. How much would that make a difference, if left for months? Planed and jointed, I do know that.


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

Rebelwork said:


> This post reminds of the time a lady asked me why cabinets were so high. It's the same thing .Milled materials are high. You want nice fancy trim it's gonna cost.
> 
> If this person is building a new house, the contractor may not want to wait. If he's in control of finances, may have the time.


It's really not the same thing. Ever since I can remember, I found ways to either cut out the middleman or to be the middleman. I understand perfectly well why things cost oh, and have no problem affording it. I just found some very specific trim I like. And if I run a business installing and painting the trim, might be beneficial to learn how to make it as well. Especially the higher end stuff running $3.00 - $8.00 a LF. Someone makes a profit creating this stuff. Just wondering how much of an investment.

I am proficient in standard Framing and installs, basic woodworking. Nothing too advanced. But with machines like a router table, once you get the process down, it not very complex.

That's not to say that it can't be. But in this case(pun). I think it's pretty straightforward.


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

KL6138


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You ain't gonna be using a router table for this. Go to grizzly and get a planer that will take cutters.


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

Rebelwork said:


> You ain't gonna be using a router table for this. Go to grizzly and get a planer that will take cutters.


Is that what they call a shaper? Errr.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Net30 said:


> It's really not the same thing. Ever since I can remember, I found ways to either cut out the middleman or to be the middleman. I understand perfectly well why things cost oh, and have no problem affording it. I just found some very specific trim I like. And if I run a business installing and painting the trim, might be beneficial to learn how to make it as well. Especially the higher end stuff running $3.00 - $8.00 a LF. Someone makes a profit creating this stuff. Just wondering how much of an investment.
> 
> I am proficient in standard Framing and installs, basic woodworking. Nothing too advanced. *But with machines like a router table,* once you get the process down, it not very complex.
> That's not to say that it can't be. But in this case(pun). I think it's pretty straightforward.
> ...


Nope! A shaper can't really make wide moldings unless they are 4" to 6" tall cutters! Nothing you want to be in the same room with when they are running!



Rebelwork said:


> *You ain't gonna be using a router table for this*. Go to grizzly and get a planer that will take cutters.


You don't need to get a Grizzly when I posted that Woodmaster molder/planer videos. It is highly recommended and those video are proof of it's capability.
Rebel doesn't look at videos, so he wouldn't be aware of their contents.
I own a old Foley Belsaw planer/molder that the Woodmaster closely resembles, and may even be a clone of?
I've never used mine for making moldings, but it's very simple to convert as the videos show.

I hate the looks of moldings, so I avoid using or making them. My house is a "Contemporary Style", not traditional.
For students of Design or Architecture it's called the Bauhaus look, plain and simple, with no decorations:








Bauhaus - Wikipedia







en.wikipedia.org




All my drywall is raised up 1/2" off the floor creating a gap, no base molding needed.
Same with door trim, my drywall butts right into the door jam, no trim or casing moldings. It's more time consuming for sure, but I like the clean look.
Corners are made with drywall angle only, not moldings. I have no crown moldings either.









Know Your Moldings: 10 Popular Trim Styles to Spiff Up Any Space


Cove or crown, batten or baseboard? Differentiate between the types of molding most commonly used in homes today—and discover which style might be right for...




www.bobvila.com


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

He doesn't need a woodmaaster either...

Have you used a woodmaster molder/planer Woodnthings?

Maybe he likes the price , maybe he doesnt..

As ive mentioned before, we bought a woodmaster drum sander. Hated it and sold it and got an overhead..

I have a buddy who bought a grizzly dual head sander and loved it.


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## Tom-G (Nov 11, 2012)

Net30 said:


> Sounds like air dried. How much would that make a difference, if left for months? Planed and jointed, I do know that.


The rule of thumb is stacked and stickered for one year of air drying for every inch of thickness. If the moisture content is too high when the trim is installed the seams between boards can open up over time as the wood continues to dry and shrink. You may want to get a moisture meter. For kiln dried I like the wood to be in the 6% - 8% range. Air dried will be a little higher. Maybe other members will jump in as to the acceptable moisture percentage for air dried hardwood.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

S


B Coll said:


> If you are going to do small runs of casings, look at the Williams & Hussey. You can run moldings up to a tad over 7". The knives are ground to register with corrugated pre drilled steel, so setup is easy. I used to have one, sorry I sold it, and mad a ton doing round and elliptical moldings. You have to have a separate jig to do rounds. I had a guy build one for me, but I think you can buy them now. I believe the machine is off patent and being made by JET these days too, runs a bit over $1k.
> View attachment 432487


Sounds solid Coil...good info..


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

If the Williams and Hussey molder is what you want here's link:




__





Williams and Hussey molder for sale - Google Search






www.google.com





But, it's only a molder, won't do wide thickness planing like the Woodmaster.


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## Jar944_2 (Oct 30, 2020)

That's a relatively simple profile. I have shapers big enough to run that profile, and a couple williams and husseys. Without question it's easier on the w&h.

You still need a table saw to rip and a planer (or shaper) to size and clean up the edges of your blanks.

Hussey running moulding





Shaper running the profile below..








moulding







youtube.com


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

It's not hard to make, but you have to know how. He will have t have the profiles cut. Ballew tool in South Missouri use to make all this stuff. Just make profile and they will match it for cutters...

Machine , profile cutters, setup and away ya go...just gotta get this cutters profiled. I'd be looking into that first...

Most people trying to make their own trim are trying to replicate an antique trim they can't purchase anymore.,.Not new trim


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## _Ogre (Feb 1, 2013)

those are all stock trim profiles. if you want more profile use a build up of different trims. a member just posted this today . 2 simple stock profiles with a cap. i believe he used it around doors and windows


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## Jar944_2 (Oct 30, 2020)

Rebelwork said:


> It's not hard to make, but you have to know how. He will have t have the profiles cut. Ballew tool in South Missouri use to make all this stuff. Just make profile and they will match it for cutters...
> 
> Machine , profile cutters, setup and away ya go...just gotta get this cutters profiled. I'd be looking into that first...
> 
> Most people trying to make their own trim are trying to replicate an antique trim they can't purchase anymore.,.Not new trim


Getting the knives are the easiest part. 

I have Neil at Mt tool grind all my knives.. Custom Profile Knives

I've had them at my door less than 24 hours after sending him the drawing.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I believe most multi profile router bits offer many profiles if one has an imagination...


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## Jar944_2 (Oct 30, 2020)

_Ogre said:


> those are all stock trim profiles. if you want more profile use a build up of different trims. a member just posted this today . 2 simple stock profiles with a cap. i believe he used it around doors and windows


If you look a post or two above you will see the base of that profile stacked up. The panel mould is a stock w&h knife profile the base was a custom profile. For scale that is 2" thick at the backband and 5 &1/4" wide


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

How to make simple moldings using cove, roundover, core box and straight bits, ..... really!
I stumbled across this great video ny Stumopy Nubs, a favorite You Tuber while browsing the web:


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

I have a jointer but haven't gotten a planer yet. Would anyone sway me away from a small woodmaster to pull double-duty?


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## DrRobert (Apr 27, 2015)

I think you need a separate planer.

Refresh are you doing this to save money? Or to say I made it? On the latter, in the end I can tell you, the satisfaction factor fades quickly. ”You built that?, wow” Then the convo quickly moves on to the Super Bowl or NASCAR and you feel a bit deflated.

If the former, does the purchase of a machine really offset the cost enough? Like I said, maybe if you’re working for $0. You’ll have more time in it than you think.

Or are you thinking of buying a moulder and going into business? If so, what’s the market and who is the competition? Buying semis full of materials at a time? And where is the housing/rehab market heading?

Not meaning to be a stick in the mud, just mentioning it. A bit off topic, I know of one guy for 20 years he made a good living making cabinets out of his shop at home. Along came Home Depot and Kraft Maid, he couldn’t buy the materials for what they sell them for. The contractors were buying and installing them. A friend who works in a local cab shop told me they won’t even look at a kitchen under $75K. On top of that, they are buying RAS boxes and only make odd sizes, just making doors, drawers and trim. They send everything out for painting and finishing.


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

DrRobert said:


> I think you need a separate planer.
> 
> Refresh are you doing this to save money? Or to say I made it? On the latter, in the end I can tell you, the satisfaction factor fades quickly. ”You built that?, wow” Then the convo quickly moves on to the Super Bowl or NASCAR and you feel a bit deflated.
> 
> ...


I will say you seem very skeptical. I'd do it for the ability to do so. It's and excuse to put another machine in the garage. When I move in 5 years, I can do the same thing to the new house. Or 2 years, I find a profile I like better. If a customer ever wants a custom profile.

As a business we charge about 3x what most fair market value in my area. People do and will pay for what they think is the best. In my experience, only a small portion of people we deal with, want cheap home depot bulk products. The same could be said, custom woodworking vs Ikea. People know the difference. Especially residential custom higher end homes. Around here there is a large labor gap between labor available and what is needed. Skilled labor in general. I guess what I'm really asking for is the process vs the business advice.

At the risk of sounding arrogant, if I had the mindset that everyone wants cheap, I can't be their prices and it's too time consuming. I'd still be making 40k a year. I'd suggest anyone take risks, experiment, and don't let anyone tell you any different. Ive had people telling me I was doing it wrong the entire time.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You got me confused Net30.

You seem to need advise, but sounds now like your trying educate?

So.... What is your line of work, fulltime?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Net30 said:


> I have a jointer but haven't gotten a planer yet. Would anyone sway me away from a small woodmaster to pull double-duty?


Not me! 
A complete shop would have a separate jointer 8" or larger, a thickness planer 15" minimum, a 24" dual drum sander, an 18" resaw bandsaw or one with a 12" capacity, a vertical panel saw, several router tables, and finally a Woodmaster molder. 
That's my shop except, I have no Woodmaster. I like them a lot, but don't need one. I just don't make moldings as I stated above.
The less setups and changeovers you need to do the better and more efficient your operation will be. No dual function machines in my shop with one exception, a 13" Min Max jointer/planer which is setup as a very wide jointer. The changeover isn't that bad except for the dust collection, but they have improved that on newer models. I have a 6" jointer that gets used 95% of the time. I use a straight line rip jig to straight boards up to 8 ft long, a rarity in my operation.
Multiple router tables save time when projects require more than one bit change.
Multiple bandsaws save changing out blades for width and tooth count.
Multiple table saws save time when blade changes are required.
Multiple drill drivers and impacts save time when drilling, coutersinking and driving fasteners. Yes, there are very cool "all in one" types that do all operations at once.
Phillips heads screws are better than slotted heads, Torx are better than Phillips by far. and square drives are great and won't fall off the bits. 
I'd throw away all my non-Torx or square drive screws if I knew I'd never need them.


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

Rebelwork said:


> You got me confused Net30.
> 
> You seem to need advise, but sounds now like your trying educate?
> 
> So.... What is your line of work, fulltime?



I think you're just trolling at this point. Everyone else seems to get it. It's all there. Could use woodworking advice on ways to create said item. Don't care for business advice. Not trying to be rude or anything. My experience tells me to do it Yours may tell you that I'm wrong, and we are both allowed to be right. There is never only one right answer. To answer your other question, I'm in commerical and higher end residential construction. Have a few guys that install (not make) trim. Run 2 painting crews and a siding crew. Not sure why that info would help?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

You bought up the fact that you charge 3x for materials. That amatuer bidding. In my field...

Trolling... Im not the new guy..

You brought up this was for "your" house, now you have a contraction installing.. very confusing...

we made molding and trim back in the 80' s. Nothing new...


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Rebelwork said:


> You bought up the fact that you charge 3x for materials. That amatuer bidding. In my field...


At no time did he say that. Go back and reread what he wrote.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Dave McCann said:


> At no time did he say that. Go back and reread what he wrote.


Post #32


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Rebelwork said:


> Post #32


Are you referring to this?


Net30 said:


> As a business we charge about 3x what most fair market value in my area.


How do you get 3 times materials from his statement?

He says 3 times average market value. In other words; A project everyone else is quoting at $6000.00 he is charging 3 times that,,,,,,,,,,,,, and getting the business due to the clientele he markets to.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Then let him correct it....


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

Rebelwork said:


> Then let him correct it....


Nothing for him to correct. I agree you are just trolling at this point.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I'm just lost on he started as a home owner then replies he a contractor. This is my confusion.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Dave McCann said:


> At no time did he say that. Go back and reread what he wrote.


Um ... yeah, he did.



Net30 said:


> As a business we charge about 3x what most fair market value in my area.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Rebelwork said:


> He doesn't need a woodmaaster either...
> 
> Have you used a woodmaster molder/planer Woodnthings?
> 
> ...


A dual drum sander is not a molder! I own a 24 General Industries dual drum as well as the Foley Belsaw molder/planer, they aren't the same at all. 
Do not compare them for this thread. Brands like the Woodmaster have great reputation as does Grizzly for their products. 
An wide belt (thickness) sander is also nothing like a dual drum sander which is very sensitive to feeding depth.


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

Rebelwork said:


> Then let him correct it....


No need oh, but I'm going to stop wasting time with this. Thank you everyone else for the insight. For future readers most research leads to molders. Williams and hussey, woodmaster or some type of equivalent.


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

woodnthings said:


> A dual drum sander is not a molder! I own a 24 General Industries dual drum as well as the Foley Belsaw molder/planer, they aren't the same at all.
> Do not compare them for this thread. Brands like the Woodmaster have great reputation as does Grizzly for their products.
> An wide belt (thickness) sander is also nothing like a dual drum sander which is very sensitive to feeding depth.


You mentioned woodmaster molder in post #6. I mentioned I hope is better than their sander. In post #7...


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## Jar944_2 (Oct 30, 2020)

If you are trying to compete with real millwork shops they will crush you on price after you factor in labor. This assumes you don't buy a real 5 or 6 head moulder and a gang rip or SLR and get wood by the rail car.

The little w&h and woodmasters are great for one off and small runs of moulding. Sure you could do a house worth, but at 11 or so feet per minute and typically multiple passes you will be there for days. (No issue if you are doing it for yourself)
You also need factor in the process of making blanks to feed the moulder, that takes longer than the moulding process. You need s4s just to start. You could buy s2s and run it through the slr and then just hit the edges with a shaper running a shear head.

The big kicker here is that millwork requires a grade higher lumber than FAS. FAS is really a cabinet and furniture grade. To be 100% clear 8-12' and 4-8/9" wide is a different beast than the $5 per board you found. 

If you're serious about more than some small one offs or historic reproduction in limited quantities look at something like a old weinig hydromat





If you dont know what a moulder does


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## Dave McCann (Jun 21, 2020)

m.n.j.chell said:


> Um ... yeah, he did.


I explained this back in post #39
He is able to charge 3 times more than his competitors bids for a project. No different than some folks spending 3 times the money buying a "designer" piece of clothing when they could buy the same thing of the rack for much less,,,,,,,,,,,,,, materials cost has nothing to do with it. Where did he say materials?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

I guess we are reading it different.. that's okay the OP is done I believe...


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

Jar944_2 said:


> If you are trying to compete with real millwork shops they will crush you on price after you factor in labor. This assumes you don't buy a real 5 or 6 head moulder and a gang rip or SLR and get wood by the rail car.
> 
> The little w&h and woodmasters are great for one off and small runs of moulding. Sure you could do a house worth, but at 11 or so feet per minute and typically multiple passes you will be there for days. (No issue if you are doing it for yourself)
> You also need factor in the process of making blanks to feed the moulder, that takes longer than the moulding process. You need s4s just to start. You could buy s2s and run it through the slr and then just hit the edges with a shaper running a shear head.
> ...


This is the type of information that helps Drive decisions. I appreciate the contribution.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

Jar944_2 said:


> If you are trying to compete with real millwork shops they will crush you on price after you factor in labor. This assumes you don't buy a real 5 or 6 head moulder and a gang rip or SLR and get wood by the rail car.
> 
> The little w&h and woodmasters are great for one off and small runs of moulding. Sure you could do a house worth, but at 11 or so feet per minute and typically multiple passes you will be there for days. (No issue if you are doing it for yourself)
> You also need factor in the process of making blanks to feed the moulder, that takes longer than the moulding process. You need s4s just to start. You could buy s2s and run it through the slr and then just hit the edges with a shaper running a shear head.
> ...


Finally a response from someone who knows what they are talking about, and possible first hand experience. Thanks, for this information.


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

I was the first to suggest the Woodmaster. Didn’t realize it was going to cause such a stir.

After owning a Woodmaster for a dozen years or so….

A Woodmaster is NOT for a professional builder. Spending a day or two making moldings is not going to provide as much income as going down to the store, picking up moldings, and spending the day or two installing the trim and moving on to the next task.

A Woodmaster is not for someone who wants to mass produce moldings to sell to others. It can’t compete with molding machines that do it faster and better and cost $80,000 to $100,000 or more.

A Woodmaster is for someone who is a home hobbyist and who has more time then money. Making your own moldings provides flexibility not found at your local big box stores. Moldings at big box stores usually come in a choice of oak or pine, maybe maple, with one, maybe two profile choices.

A Woodmaster allows you to make moldings out of any wood you are working with. I’m building a new home and using hickory, pine, walnut, Cherry and bird eye maple in various rooms in the house. I could never do that with off the shelf trim since I can’t buy trim in 4 of those 5 common woods.

A Woodmaster allows you to up your game with hundreds of stock profiles available, and custom profiles available from a sketch or by sending a small piece of molding that you want to duplicate. You also have complete control of size and thickness of trim to add interest to your trim work. If you think that the limited profiles available at the local stores are all you need then you do boring trim work and cover it with paint.

If you have an entire house worth of trim to produce, and time to do it, a Woodmaster would probably pay for itself.

90 percent of the time my Woodmaster is set up to do planing. Changing over to molding head and setting up knives is probably a ten minute job. Switching back to planing head is less then five minutes.


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## Net30 (Nov 11, 2021)

[


Terry Q said:


> I was the first to suggest the Woodmaster. Didn’t realize it was going to cause such a stir.
> .
> 
> If you have an entire house worth of trim to produce, and time to do it, a Woodmaster would probably pay for itself.


In your opinion was is the the next step or two up from a woodmaster?


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## Rebelwork (Jan 15, 2012)

Terry Q said:


> I was the first to suggest the Woodmaster. Didn’t realize it was going to cause such a stir.
> 
> After owning a Woodmaster for a dozen years or so….
> 
> ...


Good info....


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## Terry Q (Jul 28, 2016)

Net30 said:


> [
> 
> In your opinion was is the the next step or two up from a woodmaster?


There are not many options in the price range.


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## kiwi_outdoors (Jan 15, 2020)

just pay the mill what it takes to get the job done. Tell them you want the cutter - since you paid for it to be made.


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## Jar944_2 (Oct 30, 2020)

Net30 said:


> [
> 
> In your opinion was is the the next step or two up from a woodmaster?


A micron or us concepts arch moulder. Still a single head machine. Used marked they are 6-8k. Really just a bigger williams and hussey, but with a 1.25" spindle that takes std corrugated heads and the ability to tilt the spindle. They are still single spindle machines with all the limitations of those. 

Next step is a 4 head moulder and a significant increase in power requirements, as well as dust collection (you will need a significant collector to keep up) go big enough with enough heads and you need 25hp+ just on the collector and a rotary air lock dumping into a semi trailer.


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## GCTony (Apr 5, 2018)

Terry Q said:


> I was the first to suggest the Woodmaster. Didn’t realize it was going to cause such a stir.
> 
> After owning a Woodmaster for a dozen years or so….
> 
> ...


Agree 100%: I had a commercial job that required a bunch of white oak trim, nothing fancy but nothing that would be considered "stock" . Got a quote from my local millwork company and almost fell over so I said to myself, "I'll buy a machine and run it myself." Turns out when I factor in machine, knives, the cost of material waste and my time. it was a much better VALUE to have someone else do it for me.

I place the order and got it in a week. Some had tear out, some excessive knife marks and some twisted and warped pieces, Called them up and they ran replacements for me at no additional costs.

That being said, I would love to have a Woodmaster but as a hobby. Could never make money running trim for someone else.


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