# Hand held circular saw keeps stopping?



## barnabaas

Hey guys. So noob question here. I have my dads old circular saw at my place and i've used it a few times but i was wondering why or what i'm doing wrong when I'm using it in some cases. Occasionally when I get an inch or less into the wood / board i'm cutting it freeze's. Is there a trick to using these or things i should be mindful of, like maybe holding the blade guard back initially while cutting (seems dangerous?) in case it accidentally hits the board early on and cases it to stop? 

Just thought i'd ask as I'm not exactly sure why it's stopping all of a sudden 50% of the time. =\

Thanks!


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## SteveEl

Is the blade dull, gunky, warped, or installed backwards?


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## woodnthings

*The blade is on a "clutch" of sorts*

It has a washer or flat behind it and a long bolt with an nut/washer to tighten it up. The more you tighten the bolt the less it will slip if it hits an obstruction or binds up.

So, is the both motor and blade stopping or is the blade just slipping?

If the motor is stopping chances are the blade is very dull. Most issues of failure to cut are a result of a dull blade. Rarely the motor is the problem, but a frayed cord or weak connection of bad or worn brushes could be the problem 
Replace the blade and check the above. You should find the culprit. :yes: bill


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## barnabaas

Blades installed correctly - not warped as far as i can tell and it works 50% of the time, but every once in a while right towards the start the the blade just stops, the motor wants to keep going but the blade stops. Honestly i haven't done much to it since i got it which was years ago. I imagine the blade could be tightened up a bit or maybe i just need a new blade. 

I'll try those things first, any other ideas of what it could be in the meantime?

Thanks guys


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## woodnthings

*Nope*

that about covers it.
Check it out and observe to see if the blade has actually stopped in the kerf. Then tight up on the bolt a bit. It will require a blade wrench and possibly your saw has a lock for the arbor.


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## rrich

Some saws have a clutch system. I'm not sure of the logic as to why. I think that if your tighten the blade more it will stop slipping while the motor keeps running. IIRC my worm drive from 25 years ago will do the same thing.


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## vinnypatternmaker

*Blade jamming...*

Hi!
All thoughts mentioned are possible, but I'd go with tightening the the blade torque nut little by little and see how that progresses !

Also, as said above, a sharp quality blade is always a fine idea!

Best,
Marena


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## GeorgeC

If your hand is asserting a sideways pressure that will cause binding and the saw will stop. Even a slight sideways pressure combined with dirty/dull blade will cause stoppage.

George


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## Gilgaron

When I first starting using my circular saw, 80% of the time I forgot to adjust the depth of cut, making it work harder than it needed to. Also be cutting where the excess can fall away, not cutting between your sawhorses where the wood will pinch the blade as it is cut.


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## ATL Jack

Make sure the work piece is properly supported so that it isnt binding


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## joesbucketorust

*Is it solved yet?*

Did any of these solutions work? I've been checking back waiting for a "thanks, that did the trick" because I too have my grandfather's circular saw and it does the same thing. It's solid metal casing, using the same blade that was on there when he died - HSS, not carbide tipped but still quite sharp. The only difference in the saw between when he used it last and when I try to use it is that it has sat in a metal box for 20 years. So if/when the correct answer is found, please post it here. 
Thanks
Joe


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## Anywhy30

joesbucketorust said:


> Did any of these solutions work? I've been checking back waiting for a "thanks, that did the trick" because I too have my grandfather's circular saw and it does the same thing. It's solid metal casing, using the same blade that was on there when he died - HSS, not carbide tipped but still quite sharp. The only difference in the saw between when he used it last and when I try to use it is that it has sat in a metal box for 20 years. So if/when the correct answer is found, please post it here.
> Thanks
> Joe


I bought a craftsman circular saw at an estate sale, first had seen in a metal box like that. Runs good every things original,affraid to use it I might brake it or something. Got it for conversation piece guess could say. hope I don't inherit this problem too.


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## Gilgaron

I was thinking about this some more... could old brushes in the motor cause this, or do these use brushless motors? I've not played with the guts of a motor since shop class...


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## woodnthings

*have no fear*



joesbucketorust said:


> Did any of these solutions work? I've been checking back waiting for a "thanks, that did the trick" because I too have my grandfather's circular saw and it does the same thing. It's solid metal casing, using the same blade that was on there when he died - HSS, not carbide tipped but still quite sharp. The only difference in the saw between when he used it last and when I try to use it is that it has sat in a metal box for 20 years. So if/when the correct answer is found, please post it here.
> Thanks
> Joe





Anywhy30 said:


> I bought a craftsman circular saw at an estate sale, first had seen in a metal box like that. Runs good every things original,affraid to use it I might brake it or something. Got it for conversation piece guess could say. hope I don't inherit this problem too.


In my experience, the only thing that happens to these older but gooder tools is that the gear grease solidifies. The newer greases will work better and usually all it takes is to remove a few bolts or screws and scoop out the old and replace it with lithium gear case lubricant. I would also look at the blade arbor bolt to be certain it's working and snugging up on the blade to keep it from spinning. Remove all the pieces, rretain the original order and what I do is sand them on 320 grit to true them up. Replace them and tighten firmly but not overtight. They are meant to slip if a jamb occurs, so it's a fine line between that and too tight.  bill


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## barnabaas

joesbucketorust said:


> Did any of these solutions work? I've been checking back waiting for a "thanks, that did the trick" because I too have my grandfather's circular saw and it does the same thing. It's solid metal casing, using the same blade that was on there when he died - HSS, not carbide tipped but still quite sharp. The only difference in the saw between when he used it last and when I try to use it is that it has sat in a metal box for 20 years. So if/when the correct answer is found, please post it here.
> Thanks
> Joe


Hey Joe. Sorry for the late reply. I got pretty busy with work and haven't been able to test things out or sort out the issue yet. I'll def. let you know when i do figure out what the deal was in my particular case. Some really great info in here regardless thought! Thanks guys!


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## Alexa Lou

Found this posting because I was having the same issue. Been all over YouTube looking for help with no results. Thank you so much! I tightened the bolt and found that was the issue!! Really appreciate the help from a newbie over here!


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## difalkner

Welcome to the forum, Alexa! @Alexa Lou - Are you planning on sticking around with us? If so, when you get a minute complete your profile with location so it shows in the side panel.

You might go over to the introduction section and tell us a little about yourself, your tools, shop, projects, etc. Also, feel free to post photos.

David


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## Mycrossover

Gilgaron said:


> I was thinking about this some more... could old brushes in the motor cause this, or do these use brushless motors? I've not played with the guts of a motor since shop class...


Brushless motors are a recent product and as far as I know, only in cordless tools. Back in the day, the semiconductors needed to go brushless did not even exist

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## CrabKeg

i just experienced the same issue with my cordless Mil circ saw -and found results by lowering the plate to reduce the blade drag. Keeping the blade a 1/4 longer than the material solved my troubles.


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