# Block Plane Build & Question



## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

After building a couple new tools, i.e. mallet and marking gauge, I want to try my hand at building a 10" plane. I have already started based on some plans I found on the internet but don't know how exact the measurements need to be. I know the closer I am to the exact measurements the better it will turn out in the end. Three sides are an exact 90 degrees while one side is off just about a 1/2 a degree, i.e. 89.5 as seen in four of the photos. I think I can turn that one side into the top; however, I wanted it to be the bottom based on the grain direction. You can see it being off square just a little in the fourth photo. 

One other problem I have is that the two sides are not completely parallel from the front to the back. It is 5/128" off within a 13" distance from front to back. You can see this difference in photo 5 & 6. For those of you that have made a plane, is this a major concern? 

I plan on making a 1/4" thick bottom out of walnut and glueing that on the block before opening it up. Does it mater what direction the grain is going in that thin piece? 

Thanks in advance for everyone's advice. I want to make a nice tool so I don't want to just do it the easy red neck way to get it done. BTW, I know my thumb in the photos looks small, stubby, and fat (i.e. midget thumb). That's because that's me, a little guy only 4' 6" tall. Don't determine the size of the block by the appearance of my hand.  

Okay that's it for now. I will post more as time goes on.

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## bigbo1234 (Feb 13, 2013)

I haven't built a plane, but I know wood swells and shrinks, I don't think that 5/132 is a big deal. You could fix it now only to have it swell or shrink elsewhere later. As for the out is square side. You might be able to use a scraper and square it. Just a little at a time until its kosher. I can't comment on the walnut, but if it were me I would use beach for the whole project. I've got a tree ready to cut down and start its long journey to becoming a bunch of planes. I read somewhere online that you would never want to use a piece of wood for a plane that is less than three years dry, and acclamated.


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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

I've built several hand planes. Anything within the tolerances you show would be considered perfect. I've restored old planes with discrepancies you can see with your eye and they work fine.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I agree that it's fine to proceed with. You can always tweak it after the fact.


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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

Don't overthink it. You're building a wood plane, not an F14 Tomcat plane.


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## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

I know it is not an f-14, but the accuracy that I put into the plane will be the same accuracy I get out of it as I build other items. I just feel as though its got to be right on to prevent chatter, give a good cut, while being comfortable. 

The plans that I'm using are at http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/woodworking/1273456#ixzz2LrsCEJNc 

Here are some photos of my progress. 

I attached the walnut and then tried to open it up with the band saw with a fence but the blade kept buckling in the wood so I opened it with the table saw. I then took it to the jointer. I think it's coming along okay. 

I drew my next cut lines and then the outline of the plane's shape in red. As I did this, I think the crosspin is a little too close to the edge so I drew an outline of a possible change in black. See the photo. I think the new shape would give me a more attractive plane in addition providing more support for the crosspin. Any ideas?

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## bigg081 (Dec 23, 2012)

I resent that ******* remark!!!! Haha just kidding. I'm only half *******. 

I wouldn't even worry about being off that much. Use the flattest side for the bottom. The rest won't even matter. 

Looking good by the way.


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## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

Okay, here is another question. The plans that I'm using said, "use a rag to completely soak all surfaces of the plane and wedge [with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)], let the oil absorb for about a half-hour and then wipe off the excess. After overnight drying, repeat the process. Apply at least three coats using this technique." 

Another website said to submerge the plane and wedge over night in BLO, holding them down in the oil with something heavy so they don't float, wipe, and let dry for a day. 

I know the oil will be absorbed into the very center of the wood if allowed. Putting a block of oak, end grain side down, in BLO, within time the oil will come out the top, penetrating through the entire block. I don't know how long this would take or what the complications or advantages to doing this would be. 

So, what would the advantages or complications be to completely submerge the plane over night in BLO?

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## timetestedtools (Aug 23, 2012)

I think it depends on the condition of the wood. I don't ever submerge, not because its not a good idea, it just takes to much BLO. I soak one end at a time. I do it till it stops sucking it up. From there I wipe it on.

I don't think there is a right or wrong way, just different techniques.


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## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

Here is what I did today. I think it is starting to look like a smoothing plane. I just need to not get excited to see it finished and start rushing through it. Not a good idea. That's when I make mistakes. Slow and easy does it. : )

I looked online the other day to see what an iron is going to cost me. Wow! About twice as much as I thought, $46 plus postage. It's worth it, well, I am. : )

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## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

I got back to work today. Here are some photos of what I was able to do.

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## Woodwart (Dec 11, 2012)

Lookin' good! :thumbsup:


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## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

My wife said that it looks like a tap dispenser. After she said it, I guess that she's right. She normally is.

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## vursenbach (Apr 11, 2012)

I ordered my iron and cap iron assembly the other day from www.hocktools.com. $46 for the assembly + $10 for shipping. I should thet them the first part of next week. I might have had them delivered on Saturday but they are going to the high school, which is obviosly not open on Saturdays, and I live in Wyoming were everything is slow, including the US mail. 

I was able to talk with Ron Hock on the phone and get different dementions and ticknesses of the cap iron assembly the other day. He was able to also give some advice for future planes that I plan on building. What a nice guy. :yes:

Here is what I was able to do upto today. I had it sit in the BLO all night. I hope you like it. 

I will not finish the wedge until I get the iron cap assembly. I can then fine tune the and finish it when I know all is well.


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