# Dado blade throat plate?



## sofalinux (May 28, 2009)

I saw post that tell how to make a zero clearance throat plate for a single blade. But what do you do differant for a dado blade? Since it is a variable width blade, a zero clearance would require a few differant throat plates. And is a zero clearance required for a dado blade since you most likely will never be trimming off sliver thin slices that can fall into the throat plate? Do I want just one plate that has a wide slot to house the blade no matter how wide the blade is set up for?

You thoughts please.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*If you make several "blanks"*

Then secure them in the throat plate with the lock down screw when you bolt up your various size dado widths. *Mark each plate with the* *cutter dimensions* after you power up and raise the cutter into the blank. It's not a bad idea to place a sacrificial piece that covers the throat plate and cutter which is clamped at the front and rear of the saw to prevent the throat plate from raising as you raise the dado head. :thumbsup: bill


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## Burnt_Blade (Dec 26, 2009)

Its easy enough to make inserts, that you could really just make one up for all the common dado widths that you use and mark the dimension on the insert.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

I've made them for my Unisaw from Baltic birch. I have, perhaps, a half dozen and all are marked for the nominal dado width.

You don't need one for "EVERY" width of the dado. e.g. A nominal 3/4" plywood is really 23/32". If you make a ZC insert and then cut a 3/4" hole for the dado, this one could also be used for a 23/32" dado cut.

When making your ZC inserts or throat plates, keep in mind their final use. You are not going to be cutting 2" deep dados. More than likely, the maximum depth of the dado is probably going to be less than 3/4". As you raise the dado blade through the ZC, be aware that you don't have to raise the blade much more than the 3/4".


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## BHOFM (Oct 14, 2008)

I have three, 3/4+, 1/2 and 3/8. For an ooooold.
Craftsman 9" that I use for dado's only. 1/4"
Masonite is perfect and since I use a sled I don't
even fasten them down.

I just use the one that fits best.

Just a side note, the old saw is direct drive
and with an 8" dado set on it, it runs for 
several minutes after the switch is shut off.
And it is dead silent. 
I have learned to just wait it out and not leave
the saw until it has stopped. I get things ready
so I can do a lot of pieces at one time. But the
setup can take a bit more time than I like.


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## Dusty82 (Dec 23, 2009)

Some great tips here - thanks! I have a small Makita bench top table saw that I bought from a friend that I want to dedicate as a dado saw, and this topic is just what I was looking for. Thanks again!


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I have 1, it has a 13/16" opening. It is as big as the largest dado I have ever needed. I see no reason to have a zero tolerance plate for a dado. The exception being if you are running small parts that might fall it or get caught on it.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

Leo,
I have found that a dado insert close to the size of the cut tends to reduce chip out. But then 90% of my dados are in either Melamine or plywood.


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I have very little chip out with my dado set. I don't find is necessary. The dado has a 5º negative hook so it cuts with a scraping action rather than an aggressive cutting action.


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