# Ebony finishing



## Clockmaker (Mar 7, 2011)

I'm a clockmaker, the old fashioned sort of mechanical clock, and I've just finished making one with a solid ebony case. I've tried a few sample finishes on spare bits of ebony and cannot decide which method is best. 

Ebony seems to have a great deal of its own oil and I don't want to finish the surface with something which will react with this natural oil and spoil this hugely expensive case.

Has anyone any experience of finishing ebony and can they suggest the best method?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Ebony isn't difficult to finish, and most oil based finishes look very good. The aquarium cabinet below is Macassar Ebony. I wiped it down with acetone and use a satin waterbased polyurethane. You could try that on a sample to see if you like it. Or try a wiping version of an oil base varnish.
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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*+ 1 on the Acetone*

I use lacquer thinner because it also works and I have plenty of it laying around. Many people subscribe to this great mystique about oily woods. Just wipe with acetone or lacquer thinner and then use the appropriate sealer for the final finish you intend to use. No real mystery. The same holds true for gluing - wipe with acetone or lacquer thinner first and all will be good. 

Cabinetman likes water borne finishes and I like solvent based finishes. It's just a matter of what you like best for whatever reason.


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## Clockmaker (Mar 7, 2011)

Thank you for your very prompt responses.
I have made the task more difficult by including maple inlays, does this change your views on the finishing products?


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

*Nope*

Not one bit. You will have to be careful when you wip the ebony though. The color in the oil and definitely in the sanding dust being removed will try to impart itself in the maple. Just take your time with a slow careful cleaning process. If some color does get on the maple, it will wash out with the thinner or acetone, just a little extra work.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tony B said:


> Cabinetman likes water borne finishes and I like solvent based finishes. It's just a matter of what you like best for whatever reason.


I never said I didn't like solvent base finishes. Lacquer was my finish of choice for over 20 years. I got too sensitive for its toxicity (heart attack, cancer, nerve damage, and COPD). Actually, the change to WB was a blessing, as it's an easier finish to do, and is as durable.












 







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## Clockmaker (Mar 7, 2011)

It has been suggested to me that I should scrape the surface rather than 'sand' in order to stop the dust from the ebony colouring the maple and then I should just use 2 or 3 thin coats of danish oil, wiped off whilst wet, to seal the ebony and the maple. What is your opinion of this idea?


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

I didn,t mean to imply that you did not like solvent base finishes. I was just trying to make a point that there will be several different people popping in here with different sugested finishes with differing reasons. There really is no one best finish for all applications. 

Anyway, I was aware that you had some sensitivity to lacquer but didn't know exactly what.

Probably in the near future we will all be forced to use WB which will be a _good_ thing. 

BTW, before your sensitivity/alergic reaction to solvent base lacquer, how much personal protection did you use and how much spraying did you do?

When I'm not working in my shop, I am working offshore on oil and gas structures. Lots of really fun chemicals out here also.


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

Clockmaker said:


> It has been suggested to me that I should scrape the surface rather than 'sand' in order to stop the dust from the ebony colouring the maple and then I should just use 2 or 3 thin coats of danish oil, wiped off whilst wet, to seal the ebony and the maple. What is your opinion of this idea?


I hope the person that suggested scraping is around to show you how to 'sharpen' a scraper. It will dull fast and you had better know how to create a proper burr. That being said, It is a good idea. As for the Danish Oil, I never liked it. It's oily nature will probably help bleed the ebony onto the maple. I'm sure you dont spray so just do the best you can with a finishing product of your choice and skip the oil.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Clockmaker said:


> It has been suggested to me that I should scrape the surface rather than 'sand' in order to stop the dust from the ebony colouring the maple and then I should just use 2 or 3 thin coats of danish oil, wiped off whilst wet, to seal the ebony and the maple. What is your opinion of this idea?


Scraping does leave a nice finish, but I still sand lightly before finishing. The answer is to clean the area well before applying anything. Usually blowing off (away from your finishing area) will remove troublesome dust.

A danish oil will work OK, or something like Watco.












 







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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Tony B said:


> BTW, before your sensitivity/alergic reaction to solvent base lacquer, how much personal protection did you use and how much spraying did you do?


The most would be a DIY booth, and a 2 cartridge respirator. There still is direct contact with the skin, which could be in the prep or clean up. It dries pretty fast in the air, but by that time it's in your hair and ears. Contamination into the blood can come from contact to any orifice or through the skin. I would average about 20 gallons a month. Thin that in half, that's a lotta lacquer.

For the acetone base stuff all the laminate work is with spraying solvent base contact cement. Laying out kitchens with doors and all, the fumes get heavy. In the middle of summer here, wearing a mask for that is a PITA. Makes you drop sweat all over the work. Just call me stupid.












 







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## Clockmaker (Mar 7, 2011)

I'm not in favour of, or against, any method, I'm just trying to cover all the bases, so instead of an oil or lacquer how about just scraping then applying a quality wax?


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## Tony B (Jul 30, 2008)

cabinetman said:


> ..... In the middle of summer here, wearing a mask for that is a PITA. Makes you drop sweat all over the work. Just call me stupid. .


Smart people do stupid things at times. Stupid people don't have a monopoly. Anyway, even running my shop 2 weeks a month I spray a lot of lacquer. I wear respirator and since I also strip, I have decent chemical gloves I use for clean-up. I still don't do everything as safe as I could. So now that I got your story, it puts me into the stupid things also. The advantage of contracting with large petroleum companies offshore is that they take safety real serious. When the painters paint they have to wear all the normal PPE in addition to Tyvex. I'm sure you have worn that before and it is megahot in the summer under that. After painting, the Tyvex gets trashed. If they get any paint on their FRC (Fire Retardant Clothing) it too has to be trashed because it is no longer fire proof and also the absorption thing. 
If a painter wears out a new pair of FRC, his company gives him a new one free. If he gets paint on it, they will deduct the $90 cost from his paycheck. 
It's much easier to be safe when someone else is footing the bill. When you have to be competitive, we sometimes opt for the quick way.


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Clockmaker said:


> I'm not in favour of, or against, any method, I'm just trying to cover all the bases, so instead of an oil or lacquer how about just scraping then applying a quality wax?


You could use just wax, but why would you want to. It offers very little protection and is one that would need regular applications. It would preclude doing any finishing thereafter. Is there a problem with using a maintenance free finish?












 







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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

i will take an oil over water finish every time.


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## H. A. S. (Sep 23, 2010)

I'm with Jack, I prefer oil.


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## Clockmaker (Mar 7, 2011)

Hi Cabinetman, thanks for your advice. The clock will take some handling as it needs to be wound regularly by opening the front door so I can see that a solely wax finish is inappropriate, I'm glad you alerted me to that. I shall wipe with acetone and apply a satin lacquer. As the clock case is only 10" tall and 6" wide I can probably get a satisfactory finish using aerosol cans of the lacquer, yes/no?


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Clockmaker said:


> Hi Cabinetman, thanks for your advice. The clock will take some handling as it needs to be wound regularly by opening the front door so I can see that a solely wax finish is inappropriate, I'm glad you alerted me to that. I shall wipe with acetone and apply a satin lacquer. As the clock case is only 10" tall and 6" wide I can probably get a satisfactory finish using aerosol cans of the lacquer, yes/no?


If you can get good coverage before your fingers wear out, cans would work.












 







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## mlpar (Oct 16, 2021)

Clockmaker said:


> Thank you for your very prompt responses.
> I have made the task more difficult by including maple inlays, does this change your views on the finishing products?


Ebony only needs a polish with a bit of bees wax. It it hard enough to with stain almost anything know to man.


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## Quickstep (Apr 10, 2012)

I had a problem once getting a water based finish to cure on oily wood. Tech Support at General Finishes recommend putting on a coat of shellac before applying the topcoat. Worked like a charm.


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## mlpar (Oct 16, 2021)

Clockmaker said:


> I'm a clockmaker, the old fashioned sort of mechanical clock, and I've just finished making one with a solid ebony case. I've tried a few sample finishes on spare bits of ebony and cannot decide which method is best.
> 
> Ebony seems to have a great deal of its own oil and I don't want to finish the surface with something which will react with this natural oil and spoil this hugely expensive case.
> 
> Has anyone any experience of finishing ebony and can they suggest the best method?


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## mlpar (Oct 16, 2021)

Ebony only need a good sanding and is so high in oil just buff it like the axe handle but have more ebony for sale.


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