# edge tape trimming



## Ed'sGarage (Aug 16, 2007)

One of the projects I seem to most often get involved in is making cabinets and/or shelves for my home. I am most frustrated by trying to trim iron on edging. I have made cabinets/shelves with 1/4 inch edging for which I use a flush trim bit in my router ( works real well), but when it comes to the iron on type (to expedite the project) I have not found a good way to trim the tape. I have used the "band it" edge trimmer, have tried using the flat end of a chisel and recently tried the flush trim bit with my standard size router. Invariably, I seem to have a knack for taking some of the veneer off the plywood. Would a trim size router work better for this, or does anyone have any pointers on not taking some of the veneer off?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*I have used a router and laminate bit*

Router bit like this:
http://www.rockler.com/freud-64-100-solid-carbide-flush-trim-bit-1-4-dia-x-3-8h-1-4-shank

Or you can use a specialty hand plane like these:
https://images.search.yahoo.com/sea...=image&fr=ytff1-tyc-sc&va=edge+trimming+plane

A double edge trim tool:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C06B8M...e=asn&creative=395097&creativeASIN=B001C06B8M


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

I find using a mill file works best. Routers, chisels, and cutters can catch and tear the veneer. When using a file, it's more of using the edge of the file to shear off the veneer. Lay the file almost flat to the face, and on a 10"-12" file the far end of the file is maybe an inch or so above the face 
As you file, have the handle ahead of the end, so the cutting angle is against the face of the veneer, not at 90° to the edge being filed. Only file on the push stroke (towards the way it's glued), not pulling back on the veneer. Once you start you will pick up very quickly how to hold the file and how much pressure is needed. It is a very fast way to trim the edge, and you will get no tear outs. 

Once you get most of the veneer off, you may have to go back over the edge one time with the face of the file to dress it...again, only with push strokes.


















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## FrankC (Aug 24, 2012)

If you are using an iron on product you have to be sure it is bonded properly to begin with, if you are removing it while trimming it would indicate that it was not bonded and what ever method you use something will eventually catch it and you will have a difficult repair on your hands.


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## Maylar (Sep 3, 2013)

I find that a small block plane is as quick and clean as anything. I'll use a card scraper and chisel where the plane won't reach.


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

I use the double edge trimmer like woodenthings posted. Except for a edgebanding machine it's the best method I've used.


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## terryh (Nov 11, 2013)

I have a double edge trimmer as well as another gadget designed for trimming. I don't like either. I find the quickest and easiest way to trim edge banding (both wood and melamine), is to use a very sharp 1.5" wide chisel.


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## Ed'sGarage (Aug 16, 2007)

So far the tip that has seemed to work the best for me has been the mill file by Cabinet Man. I tried it this morning on edge banding that had been partially trimmed with the router and flush bit and it worked like a charm. I'm going to need to try it on untrimmed edge banding, but even if that's not good, the edge banding trimming tool ( don't know the name, but it's yellow plastic) works well for me if I reverse the blades (putting the bevel to the inside). By doing so, there is no chance of damaging the plywood veneer. Then the balance can be removed with the file. I hoping this'll work. I'm really tired of trying to cover my mess ups with the damaged veneer.

Thanks Guys !


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Ed'sGarage said:


> So far the tip that has seemed to work the best for me has been the mill file by Cabinet Man. I tried it this morning on edge banding that had been partially trimmed with the router and flush bit and it worked like a charm. I'm going to need to try it on untrimmed edge banding, but even if that's not good, the edge banding trimming tool ( don't know the name, but it's yellow plastic) works well for me if I reverse the blades (putting the bevel to the inside). By doing so, there is no chance of damaging the plywood veneer. Then the balance can be removed with the file. I hoping this'll work. I'm really tired of trying to cover my mess ups with the damaged veneer.
> 
> Thanks Guys !


I don't use a flush trim bit first. When I glue the veneer down, I follow the iron with a wood block to press the veneer down. Whatever the overhang, it comes right off with the file. I found with some overhang and using a router, the veneer can bend into the bit. Oak, especially being so grainy, can split along the grain with using the trim bit.

Once you get the hang of using the file, it's very fast and produces a very clean edge. The edges of the file should have single cut teeth.


















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## verdesardog (Apr 2, 2011)

AS cabinetman said, a file is your best friend when flush cutting edge banding or veneer....

And I always use a wood block with as much pressure as I can to follow the iron when applying edge banding, it insures proper bonding of the glue.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

sandpaper on a wood block. You stroke somewhat tangential from the edge of the tape, towards the shelf. You go semi-crossgrain rather than length ways, usually slices off the tape nice and even while slightly rounding the edge. The action pushes the edge of the tape tight to the shelf.


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## TerryQ (Apr 8, 2014)

I'd like to suggest to those new to edge banding to check out http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/fastedge-peel-and-stick-edgebanding.asp
Not that I'm trying to promote peel and stick edge banding, but they have several products that you may find useful and lots of videos and tips for using them.


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