# West System Resin



## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Any of you guys have experience with West System Resins? I'm going to try out the 105 resin and 206 hardener for bent laminations... 

Suggestions, likes / dislikes, gripes, praise, tips...? 

Also if you know of a better / cheaper system...

As always, thanks for your input!

~tom


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

firemedic said:


> Any of you guys have experience with West System Resins? I'm going to try out the 105 resin and 206 hardener for bent laminations...
> 
> Suggestions, likes / dislikes, gripes, praise, tips...?
> 
> ...


Depending on the lamination, I use either Titebond II or III, or a urea-formaldehyde glue.












 







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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

I've used tb2 for a couple and polys too but just don't trust 'em for long term stability on bent lams... I've heard of using the formaldehyde glues but never have.

Are there any trade offs between the formaldehyde and resins?

~tom


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

firemedic said:


> I've used tb2 for a couple and polys too but just don't trust 'em for long term stability on bent lams... I've heard of using the formaldehyde glues but never have.
> 
> Are there any trade offs between the formaldehyde and resins?
> 
> ~tom


I can't say as I haven't used them. I will say I've had very good results with both the glues I've used. No spring back and a good glue joint. As in any glued joint, the parts must fit well, and be clamped. I do allow "overnight" drying. That may make a difference in being untouched or moved too soon. 

One of my heaviest was a *22' foot bridge *over a swan pond in a hotel lobby. The lams for the stringers were 3/4"x6" using urea-formaldehyde glue. They were like steel when done...no movement at all.












 







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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

cabinetman said:


> I can't say as I haven't used them. I will say I've had very good results with both the glues I've used. No spring back and a good glue joint. As in any glued joint, the parts must fit well, and be clamped. I do allow "overnight" drying. That may make a difference in being untouched or moved too soon.
> 
> One of my heaviest was a 22' foot bridge over a swan pond in a hotel lobby. The lams for the stringers were 3/4"x6" using urea-formaldehyde glue. They were like steel when done...no movement at all.
> 
> ...


Damn, I like that bridge! How did you bend the lam? Come along / winch?

The resin isn't terribly expensive, think I'll try it along side the formaldehyde and see which one works for me, application wise and end result.

Thx

~tom


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

firemedic said:


> Damn, I like that bridge! How did you bend the lam? Come along / winch?
> ~tom


I made a form consisting of an MDF curve with the arc struck for the whole length (looked like a long narrow orange slice). The top of the arc was glued up with a 6" x 3/4" "piece used as a form to clamp to. The lams varied in lengths to get overlap. The span (arc) wasn't that radical, and the Red Oak in 3/4" curved fairly easy. The second piece was glued/clamped/screwed to the first. All successive pieces were done the same way.













 







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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

I've used 105/206 for waterproof coatings and found using it to glue soft woods together is difficult. Seems like the resin could soak into the wood forever. I've never gotten a tight bond...regular wood glue works best.


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

These birch and poplar boxes have a few layers of epoxy. The first layer will soak into the wood closing the pores and the second coat starts waterproofing. I have pulled some boxes apart (by hand) as a result of the weak bond.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

aaronhl said:


> I have pulled some boxes apart (by hand) as a result of the weak bond.


did you use it like glue to bond pieces together? Or just coat the whole piece?

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

Never done any lamination but I've used West System's resins and hardeners a lot. 
Here is a link to their use guidelines for laminations (about 3 paragraphs down) Guide
You'll note that they recommend the two step process. That can get expensive, depending on the sq. ft. to be coated.


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## Hammer1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Use plastic resin glue if it's above the water line. 

Amazon.com: Dap 00203 Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue 1-Pound: Home Improvement


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## aaronhl (Jun 2, 2011)

firemedic said:


> did you use it like glue to bond pieces together? Or just coat the whole piece?
> 
> ~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


First, I coat the inside with the wood and top boarder taped together. After the resin hardens I coat the outside and inside. I'm sure you can achieve strength if you use the resin to glue pieces together. Just make sure you use enough resin so when it soaks into the wood there is still some to create a good bond.

What would you like to use the resin for?


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

firemedic said:


> I'm going to try out the 105 resin and 206 hardener for bent laminations...


...:smile:


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

aaronhl said:


> First, I coat the inside with the wood and top boarder taped together. After the resin hardens I coat the outside and inside. I'm sure you can achieve strength if you use the resin to glue pieces together. Just make sure you use enough resin so when it soaks into the wood there is still some to create a good bond.
> 
> What would you like to use the resin for?


Bent laminations. I spoke with a west tech guy before I posted. Apparently this product is very successfully used for this purpose... Only way I'll know is to test it, I guess!

Thx for the info,

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Leo G (Oct 16, 2006)

I've used WS epoxies a lot. Very strong joints are possible as the glue is structural and waterproof. The epoxy takes at least 12 hours to cure. You need to be careful about mixing up large batches as it will overheat and crystallize in minutes. Keep the glue spread out in to a thinner layer or keep it in a double bowl, the first with ice to keep the second one (holding the epoxy) cool. You need to coat both surfaces. If it soaks in keep applying until it can produce a coating on the surface. After the epoxy has cured if you plan on painting it you must wash the wax off that forms on the surface.


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## rrich (Jun 24, 2009)

There are Titebond glues that are called "extensible" (I think that is the right word.) and are intended for laminations. They come in both I and II variations. I have seen them in my local Woodcraft, they have a more white background label and are about a buck more than the regular in the quart size.


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## skipper2 (Apr 20, 2011)

*West Epoxy*

In the responses, most seem to offer options & not talk about epoxy. I have used West epoxy for several years in maintaining wooden boats. If used with their pumps it is very easy to maintain the right mix (I use the 3:1 ratio product) And the additives for filllers provide a great set of options for all applications. Get a copy of their book, read it, and have fun! By the way, over the years I have both visited their facility in Bay City MI and called them for advice on usage of the epoxy and always gotten good advise. A problem? Cure time- most folks who I know that don'y like it want instant results & that just ain't possible! 
An "old timers" comment!
skipper


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Gayle Roudabush said:


> In the responses, most seem to offer options & not talk about epoxy. I have used West epoxy for several years in maintaining wooden boats. If used with their pumps it is very easy to maintain the right mix (I use the 3:1 ratio product) And the additives for filllers provide a great set of options for all applications. Get a copy of their book, read it, and have fun! By the way, over the years I have both visited their facility in Bay City MI and called them for advice on usage of the epoxy and always gotten good advise. A problem? Cure time- most folks who I know that don'y like it want instant results & that just ain't possible!
> An "old timers" comment!
> skipper


Thanks, someone who uses it!  lol

I spoke with a tech guy, picked his brain for 30 min. I'll eventually get over to west marine and pick some up to play with, just been crazy busy lately...

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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## Gene Howe (Feb 28, 2009)

firemedic said:


> Thanks, someone who uses it!  lol
> 
> _I spoke with a tech guy, picked his brain for 30 min. I'll eventually get over to west marine and pick some up to play with, just been crazy busy lately..._
> 
> ...


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## Antoine (Jul 25, 2011)

Fibermax Composites has a special epoxy system for wood working, in "fast"
http://www.fibermaxcomposites.com/shop/-p-937.html
and "slow" version
http://www.fibermaxcomposites.com/shop/-p-936.html
Fast and slow hardeners can be mixed in any proportion to achieve the desired speed.


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## firemedic (Dec 26, 2010)

Antoine said:


> Fibermax Composites has a special epoxy system for wood working, in "fast"
> http://www.fibermaxcomposites.com/shop/-p-937.html
> and "slow" version
> http://www.fibermaxcomposites.com/shop/-p-936.html
> Fast and slow hardeners can be mixed in any proportion to achieve the desired speed.


Thx for that info, I'm still trying to move a lil more out of the shop then that project will commence!

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...


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