# finishing cherry wood. Help!



## Matillda (Nov 17, 2012)

I'm completely green when it comes to fine furniture. I have tackled a huge project. It's a cabinet made of solid cherry. I am up to the finishing stage and I'm panicy that I'm going to screw it up! 

From what I've read online, I am supposed to seal, stain with a GEL stain, and then finish. So far, all of my boards are sealed.

For my sealer I mixed half valspar sealer-








and half mineral spirits. Then I am supposed to sand it down with fine grit sandpaper.

For my stain I am at a loss. I am so confused on what color to buy. I want that rich somewhat dark cherry color. I am afraid if I get the perfect shade it will get even darker over time and turn into espresso!! On the flip side, i'm afraid if I go too light it won't get dark enough. 

For my finish I bought a water based polyurethane. I was told this would be easier to use than shellac and won't yellow like oil based polyurethane would. 

I am also concerned with which brand of stain to buy. I was told to use a water based stain with a water based polyurethane. 

Am I doing this right? :help:


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## TylerJones (Dec 4, 2011)

I can bet you will get two types of answers to this.

1. Don't stain a solid cherry cabinet, it will darken A LOT over the first two years.

2. Use an oil based gel stain. I would recommend general finishes if you go this route. One important thing to know about the gels though is that they are even harder than other stains to get out of corners. Stock up on cu tips. I hate gel stains and would personally opt for an oil based stain if you had a gun to my head and forced me to stain cherry.

I'm firmly in the first group. You say you want a dark cherry color, you have a solid cherry cabinet. finish and wait and you will get perfectly even dark cherry color. Also I would ditch the water based poly and go with either shellac or an oil varnish. They will take you one step closer to the classic rich cherry look you want.

Also, go easy and use a very light touch on your sanding before you stain. If you wear through your sealer your stain or finish will splotch.


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## Charles Neil (Oct 21, 2007)

My concern is , I am not sure what the oil in this is, and it has been used as a prestian for water base colorants and finishes, not a good idea, I think you will have to rethink you stains and topcoats. You need to stay with oil base products, In my opinion. 
Oils can be used ,under a water base, but they have to be throughly dry, that could take a while,adhesion could be a major issue here, Shellac would seal it off and allow for waterbase products, but over a prestain, doubtful it will take any stain or dye.


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## Charles Neil (Oct 21, 2007)

Matillda , I think you have some issues, but nothing that can't be resolved, I dont get a chance to get on this forum very often, and there are some really sharp folks on here, so I dont want to overstep them. I feel sure you will get some solid answers. If not I will be glad to help you thru this. [email protected]

Will help if I can .


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

Stop what you are doing and make samples of what you want to do. It is easier to make another sample if you don't like it than to strip down your project and start over.


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## Getting better (Dec 3, 2009)

Samples, yes!!! Make several scrap pieces and test test test. Do all the sanding through all the steps to final finish on each sample before you do anything on your expensive and labor intensive work. I have had very good luck using Potasium Dichromate to darken cherry then finishing it with wipe on poly or Waterlox.


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## Matillda (Nov 17, 2012)

Tyler, you're a breath of fresh air! Skipping the stain seems like a dream come true at this point!!

I did plan on doing samples but i thought the sealer step was a no brainer and had to be done, so I slapped it on everything. cry. I really hope i can salvage it. 

Thanks for the help!!


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## Charles Neil (Oct 21, 2007)

I have prepped some cherry with a sealer oil, to replicate what we have here, the issue will be color retention, meaning depending on well the oil has sealed the wood , how well it will take a color. I have a pretty good collection of dyes and stains . We will experiment some and feel sure we can get this handled.


Chemicals will not work here, as the wood is sealed with the oil, 2 coats , can't see the chemicals getting to wood.


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## kjhart0133 (Feb 4, 2009)

Don't stain! It can be done well, but I feel cherry is such a lovely wood that it would be a shame to alter its beauty with a stain. Instead use a quality oil based top coat and let the cherry darken naturally. In a year or two, depending on how much UV gets to it, you will achieve a rich dark luster. Oil based poly will add a slight amber tone; use water based poly if you don't want that additional hue.

Good luck,

Kevin H.


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## Charles Neil (Oct 21, 2007)

Kevin , I agree natural cherry left to age is beautiful, no doubt.

In this case the color they need to match is much darker, not super dark but to achieve the color it will have to have some color added. I think we can handle it and have it come out nicely.


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## Rick C. (Dec 17, 2008)

Personally, I wouldn't stain cherry for myself. A cabinet shop I worked in would stain the cherry with a warm chestnut stain, it was very nice looking and brought the grain out well. Not much darker than natural when applied, but, I never saw the stuff after it went out.
I'd use an oil based poly thinned with mineral spirits and wipe on.
That's just me.


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