# How best to paint furniture?



## gramowsk (Nov 30, 2008)

I am looking to build a computer armwoire. We looked at a lot of stores but couldn't find one that meet our needs and price range. My wife wants it painted black so I am planning on using MDF with poplar on the edges for strength and durability. My wife would like a smooth hard surface without any brush strokes. I am not sure how to get the smooth painted look. I am somewhat of a newbe. I have built a toy chest out of oak and book shelves out of the MDF and poplar which is painted. The book shelves came out well but you can see the brush marks.

I have attached a piture of what I am planning on building.


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## Conner (Sep 14, 2008)

Do good preparation, sand smooth and remove dust. Then I've had good luck getting a smooth finish using a high-density foam roller. If you want to get a very smooth coat use the foam roller and thin your paint a bit using the recommended thinner, that way it will self-level even better than at full viscosity. Also you can thin with a product called Penetrol that helps the paint level better as well. Applying multiple thinner coats and sanding in between will give you a smoother finish than one thick one. Good luck.


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## princessleigh (Dec 5, 2008)

The first thing you should do is to smooth out the rough spots with No. 1 sand paper or you can use medium course steel wool. Once you're done with the rough parts, you can use a finer sand paper such as No. 0 or No. 00. Try to wipe the dust carefully with a cheesecloth so it doesn't mix with your paint. You should use a filler first before applying your the paint. Enamel paint is a good paint that will give a smooth porcelain-like finish to your furniture. You may also try using oil base or latex paints.

Check out samples of computer armoire at this site:
http://www.gowfb.com/Home-Office-Furniture-c-58.php?cPath=58


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

Latex paint maybe ok for walls but not for furniture due to its tendency to block(come off on articles placed on it)

Regards

Jerry


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## frankp (Oct 29, 2007)

I've used latex paint on plenty of furniture in the past without any issues. I've never noted it coming off on items placed on it except when used in high humidity areas with a lot of pressure placed against it (and that's only been on walls). Maybe I've been lucky?


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## mlightfoot (May 13, 2008)

I've built painted mdf cabinets and shelves with the poplar edging for myself and for clients. The ones I did for myself were painted with hgigh-end latex with Floetrol added. I used a foam roller and had excellent results except that the computer components stick to it. Books also do as well after some time. Currently, I am building a large hutch for a client's office and switched to oil base paint. The results seem just as smooth. The downside is the dry time which is why I am sitting at the computer now. Even in my heated garage, the dry time is over 24 hours between coats so they can be sanded. Make sure you have your primer tinted for improved coverage and so nicks won't show as easily. The primer can be latex.


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## mlightfoot (May 13, 2008)

P.S. - Maybe this is the right time for your wife to OK the HVLP sprayer.


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## jerry (Nov 1, 2006)

I am speaking of latex not acrylic. Talk to a major paint supplier blocking is a well know fact about latex paint.

Jerry


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## Benny (Nov 29, 2008)

To avoid the brush marks I would go with a HVLP sprayer, , oil based paint thinned at 15% go to Sherman willaims or any pro paint store ask for the best prouduct 1 coat prime 2 caots finish paint. One thing that has worked for me is after the Primed coat fill any crack dings or little mishaps with Ready patch, and sand whole piece with 220 grit real lightly.


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## jack warner (Oct 15, 2010)

i would recoment priming the pc b4 assembly. that way its easier to sand and get the imperfection out. if need one light prime coat after assembled. latex will work fine, but not the most durible.

spray-spray-spray always produce the best finishes


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