# Removing nails, etc..



## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

I have some old reclaimed wood from a house that was being renovated. What I got out of there is the old floor joists. They measure 2.5" thick and anywhere between 6 and 8" tall. I believe it to be sycamore. Some of the joists have a lot of nails and staples in them and they are rusty. I was hoping some of you might have some tips for getting them out without completely destroying the surrounding areas?? Anything would help!!


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## mdntrdr (Dec 22, 2009)

:smile:


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Yeah, those will help but I'm not sure they will do the job completely. I'll get a photo and upload it later.


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## SeniorSitizen (May 2, 2012)

The Bridgeport slide hammer nail pullers have been around for awhile. When doing a search you'll find about that many different styles of nail pullers. I'm sure no one tool will satisfy all nail pulling needs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-too...252?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2093da5c


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

It's hard to see in this picture, but it gives an idea of what I'm working with. These joists came out of a house built in 1890.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

I find a professional quality claw hammer (I use an Estwing) will pull most nails. I like to use a 'jimmy bar' aka 'wrecking bar' ( it is about 2 ft long has a claw like a hammer one end and a lever for prying at the other ). Again good quality is a must. 

I do a lot of this kind of recycling. My jimmy bar is tool #1. A quick sharp pull gets most nails 1st time. For a more stubborn nail or one that has little to no head I use my claw hammer. Using a thin block under the hammer can increase ease of pulling nail. As the nail comes out further you may need a thicker block under hammer. 

In case where there is no head on the nail a good hammer may still grip the shaft of the nail and successfully pull it out. If the nail still won't come out, gripping the nail as best you can with the claw firm against the timber ( hammer in this case across the board instead of pulling down the length) now lever sideways on the hammer, pulling down in the direction of the timber, 90° to the direction you would usually use a hammer to pull a nail. This will almost always grip and pull a stubborn nail and unless the nail is rusted in the timber it should not snap. 

I prefer not to use pincers or pliers on stubborn nails as there is a higher risk of cutting the nail and it becomes a much bigger exercise to remove it. 

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

I'm worried about a lot of the nails breaking off and being flush with the surface of the wood. That's my biggest concern and I'm not quite sure what to do if that happens. I'd like this wood to be used for tables and benches.


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## Alchymist (Jan 2, 2011)

Black540i said:


> I'm worried about a lot of the nails breaking off and being flush with the surface of the wood. That's my biggest concern and I'm not quite sure what to do if that happens. I'd like this wood to be used for tables and benches.


Many times (especially with the old cut nails) it's fairly easy to take a small diameter pin punch and drive the nail completely through the wood.


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

Alchymist said:


> Many times (especially with the old cut nails) it's fairly easy to take a small diameter pin punch and drive the nail completely through the wood.


I've done that before, but not on this stuff. I don't think it would work unfortunately. I plan on working on this tomorrow so we will see what happens.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

Black540i said:


> I'm worried about a lot of the nails breaking off and being flush with the surface of the wood. That's my biggest concern and I'm not quite sure what to do if that happens. I'd like this wood to be used for tables and benches.


Try a good sharp pull. It they have rusted at entry there is not much you can do. Sometimes if you tap the nail in a little more it 'breaks' the bite the nail has in the timber. Then give it a sharp pull. 

If they snap you are left with 2 options

Dig it out

Leave it

If you leave it you can cut it level and then punch it enough to plane and or sand the timber if that is your plan. For rustic finish I leave the nail flush and sand it as is. Then I have a bright shiny nail under my poly.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

The first tools posted on this thread run I high risk of cutting or snapping stubborn nails. Great for newer and shorter nails but would definitely avoid using them in anything slightly corroded.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

DaveTTC said:


> If you leave it you can cut it level and then punch it enough to plane and or sand the timber if that is your plan. For rustic finish I leave the nail flush and sand it as is. Then I have a bright shiny nail under my poly.
> 
> Dave The Turning Cowboy


This is likely what I will be doing. I have a couple things I've made this way and I don't mind the look. I prefer holes where the nails used to be but I'm not going to destroy the wood to get them out.


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## mikeswoods (May 18, 2009)

These are handy --we used to make out own using old push rods--cut and teeth filed in--this is a picture from---http://www.woodcraft.com/category/2000983/2000983.aspx


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## Black540i (Jan 4, 2013)

mikeswoods said:


> These are handy --we used to make out own using old push rods--cut and teeth filed in--this is a picture from---http://www.woodcraft.com/category/2000983/2000983.aspx


Thanks! Looks like I'll end up ordering some of those!


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## woodisforever (Jan 5, 2013)

*Pulling nails...*

I will confess right up front that I have been working on nail pulling and therefore nail puller designs for years. I think it will continue to be my goal and focus for much of my hobby time for years to come. I do it because I am fanatical about wood. I say all this because I could be considered biased about nail pullers, since I am still on the quest for the most incredible versions. I am by no means done with this process, and I think about it every day. But I also think that the different choices are relevant, and I also don't see them here yet, so please excuse the interruption! Perhaps the best model for this is "The Nail Extractor" made by a very talented guy from South Carolina.









I also list my own designs, like the Nail Jack, The Nail Hawk, The Nail Hunter, the Staple Jack and the not yet seen Pry Jack. These are all currently made in the USA. The reason they work is the old lever and fulcrum action, which consists of gripping (with inner jaws too dull by design for cutting) and pulling. The jaws open and close to reset the grip so that the pulling action is smooth and effective. One of the other design elements is that you can turn these tools around and grip the exposed nail with the area behind the rivet, allowing for a 100 degree pull in a single action. Believe me, I am not listing these as an advertisement, because most of them are currently sold out. I am not even including a link to any tool that I have designed. For pallet nails, there's also the Paslode Eagle Claw, which I designed and manufactured. But I do think it is relevant because all I want is to get rid of nails! And to save time. If you think it's a plug, please don't. Anyone who has met me knows it is about the job of getting our wood back. Period.


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## DaveTTC (May 25, 2012)

woodisforever said:


> I will confess right up front that I have been working on nail pulling and therefore nail puller designs for years. I think it will continue to be my goal and focus for much of my hobby time for years to come. I do it because I am fanatical about wood. I say all this because I could be considered biased about nail pullers, since I am still on the quest for the most incredible versions. I am by no means done with this process, and I think about it every day. But I also think that the different choices are relevant, and I also don't see them here yet, so please excuse the interruption! Perhaps the best model for this is "The Nail Extractor" made by a very talented guy from South Carolina.
> 
> I also list my own designs, like the Nail Jack, The Nail Hawk, The Nail Hunter, the Staple Jack and the not yet seen Pry Jack. These are all currently made in the USA. The reason they work is the old lever and fulcrum action, which consists of gripping (with inner jaws too dull by design for cutting) and pulling. The jaws open and close to reset the grip so that the pulling action is smooth and effective. One of the other design elements is that you can turn these tools around and grip the exposed nail with the area behind the rivet, allowing for a 100 degree pull in a single action. Believe me, I am not listing these as an advertisement, because most of them are currently sold out. I am not even including a link to any tool that I have designed. For pallet nails, there's also the Paslode Eagle Claw, which I designed and manufactured. But I do think it is relevant because all I want is to get rid of nails! And to save time. If you think it's a plug, please don't. Anyone who has met me knows it is about the job of getting our wood back. Period.


Never heard of those things. I like what you write and what you have to say. You would be an interesting guy to have around. Have you thought of sticking with the forum and giving more of an introduction etc.

Dave The Turning Cowboy


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## Pirate (Jul 23, 2009)

I've pulled borken off nails, by clamping on a Vice grip plier, and using a slide hammer with a hook, to hook onto the Vice grip and pull it out.
I've thought about welding a nut the size of the slide hammer thread, to a pair of vice grips.


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## commodore (Jan 14, 2013)

These are brilliant!
http://www.woodcraft.com/category/2000983/2000983.aspx


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