# Blade stalls



## johnnywyoming (May 6, 2009)

I have an old 10" Delta Table saw with direct drive to the motor. It has been cutting fine until recently. Now it stalls when I try to cut and will come back to full speed after I remove the wood. Checked the tightness on the blade and it seems to be good. Any ideas on what else could cause this?


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## dodgeboy77 (Mar 18, 2009)

Is that blade sharp? Have you changed the power source (like a different outlet or an extension cord)? Are you cutting the same kind of wood? Could the stock be getting pinched against the fence due to misalignment?

If nothing of the above has changed, you may have a motor going bad.

Bill


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

It could definitely be the blade...at the very least clean your blade. If that helps buy a new good quality sharp thin kerf blade. 

Aslo, have you ever changed the brushes on that motor?


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## johnnywyoming (May 6, 2009)

When this started I was cutting a piece of 1/2" plywood that had been outside for quite awhile and had become warped. Other than that I have been ripping 3/4" clear pine for picture frames without any problems. Now it stalls on that wood too.

How do I check alignment? 

No, I have never replaced the brushes but the guy I bought it from probably did.


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## drcollins804 (Jan 11, 2008)

I would suspect the brushes as my first choice. They last a long time in an occasional use tool and can be on third or fourth owner for some tools. Have bought many at auctions and had to refurb before use or resale.
David


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

johnnywyoming said:


> I have an old 10" Delta Table saw with direct drive to the motor.


Which Delta model?

I have the 34-740 (I think it's called "Super 10") direct-drive, and a similar thing happened to me about a year ago.

If yours is the same model:

(1) forget brushes -- this is an induction motor, it has no brushes

(2) there are 2 versions of the saw, the difference between the two is in the mount casting and motor which have different sizes

I located a seller on eBay (tools-rule) who had a few units on the shelf, I bought one from him. (The local Delta/PC/DeWalt repair shop installed the new motor assembly for me, it was a very reasonable fee to do something I don't have the tools, workspace or experience to attempt myself.)


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## johnnywyoming (May 6, 2009)

Model is 34-670, does anyone know if it has brushes?? I should look for the model number on the motor I suppose.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

johnnywyoming said:


> Model is 34-670, does anyone know if it has brushes?? I should look for the model number on the motor I suppose.


Take a look on eReplacementParts.com

(scrub this) The motor shown in the parts diagram looks just like the one for mine -- even down the the 2 variants (Type 1 and Type 2).

edit ... there's a sub-diagram that shows the motor in exploded view, it does have brushes (unlike mine) ... good luck!


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## johnnywyoming (May 6, 2009)

Well, its not the blade. I put a new one on last night an no difference. How difficult is it to replace the brushes in the motor?? As far as alignment are you talking about the fence being aligned with the blade or some type of alignment done to the blade?


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Read post 6*

"It has no brushes"
Check all the electrics after giving it a thorough blow out with an air hose...80 to 100 psi and rotate the shaft while you are blowing out the dust.
All the electrics starting with the proper size outlet minimum 15 amps, plug wiring, no. 14 wire cord using no extensions, switch and wires to the motor from the switch.
If all seems OK then remove the motor, bench test it yourself or take it in to a motor repair shop to test. It may be as simple as a starting capacitor.

Universal motors have brushes and operate on either AC or DC and can be observed to have two plastic screws on opposite sides of the motor housing to retain the brushes. IF you have these then you can remove the screws and replace the brushes, but according to post 6 that is not the case. Good Luck. :thumbsup: bill


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## johnnywyoming (May 6, 2009)

Unless I'm reading something wrong, Post number 6 is a different model number than mine. The link in post number 8 took me to a parts house listing for my model and it does show brushes.


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## duncsuss (Aug 21, 2009)

woodnthings said:


> "It has no brushes"
> ... according to post 6 that is not the case. Good Luck. :thumbsup: bill


Bill -- I clarified in my follow up (post #8) ... jeremy's model number indicates his motor does have brushes.

Jeremy -- changing the brushes is normally a simple operation -- once you have found the cover screw, just make sure as you unscrew it that you keep hold. The spring might shoot it someplace you'll never find it again. :shifty:


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## knotscott (Nov 8, 2007)

johnnywyoming said:


> Well, its not the blade. I put a new one on last night an no difference. ... As far as alignment are you talking about the fence being aligned with the blade or some type of alignment done to the blade?


Question...what blade did you try? 

Yes, the blade needs to be aligned as perfectly with the fence as possible for rip cuts. Most people use the miter slot to the right as a reference, and align the blade and the fence to the miter slot. If for some reason you can't align the blade to the miter slot, then adjust the fence and align it to the blade. 

From what I can tell from the info online from Toolspartsdirect.com, this saw was a predecessor to the 36-600 and TS300, and does have a universal motor with brushes. Part #207 ~ $6 each (need two). Not sure whether you have a type 1 or a type 2 34-670 though. 


















Note that there's also a small cogged drive belt, part #227 ($22)...the cogs could be stripped from that, which could cause slipping and slowing of the motor. Brushes are easy to change, the belt could be a little tougher, but heating it in hot water might help make it more pliable.


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## johnnywyoming (May 6, 2009)

New blade is Irwin 10" 60T, 14074. Trim blade, but states it will rip and Crosscut all woods, better on softwood and plywood


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*That is not the best blade*

For 2 reasons: It's not a great blade, Irwin. And second, a 60 TPI blade is not meant to rip. There are too many teeth, too close together to let the sawdust escape, I think the blade is the source of your problem. Get a Freud Diablo 40 TPI blade at Home Depot...$30.00 and you should see a big difference. Great blade for the money. 
Also any missalignment of the fence and that blade WILL cause a bind and stall the saw. See "table saw alignment" threads here for how to's.
Good Luck.  bill


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## johnnywyoming (May 6, 2009)

Would this 24T Blade work better than the 40T?

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/DIABLO-RIPPING/freudreg-Diablo-Ripping-Blade


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*Only for ripping rough stock*

The 40TPI is a great blade and will crosscut and rip well for most applications. If you are ripping 2" thick stock for hours then get both blades. I have both blades myself, but primarily use the 40 TPI.  bill


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## johnnywyoming (May 6, 2009)

Tried the Diablo but no difference. The motor is making a lot more noise than ever and I thought that I smelled some electrical odor when this all began. Should I replace the brushes to see if that is the problem before taking it to a repair shop??


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*The odor and noise tells me*

The motor is the issue not the blade. Anytime you smell an electrical odor is the time to inspect the motor, blow out all the saw dust with a high pressure 60 psi air hose and if you have new brushes put them in after cleaning it out. Check the arbor for looseness/play then if all else fails take it in. It may not be worth repairing if there are serious issues, but at least you'll have a good blade for the "new" saw.....:yes: bill
BTW stay away from AC/DC direct drive if possible, too noisy and other issues.


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## WoodMark (Dec 18, 2009)

johnnywyoming said:


> When this started I was cutting a piece of 1/2" plywood that had been outside for quite awhile and had become warped. Other than that I have been ripping 3/4" clear pine for picture frames without any problems. Now it stalls on that wood too.
> 
> How do I check alignment?
> 
> No, I have never replaced the brushes but the guy I bought it from probably did.


Pine is a very sappy wood. I would clean any pitch off your blade and try it again or put a different blade on the saw, then try it


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## AlWood (Apr 18, 2010)

woodnthings said:


> The motor is the issue not the blade. Anytime you smell an electrical odor is the time to inspect the motor, blow out all the saw dust with a high pressure 60 psi air hose and if you have new brushes put them in after cleaning it out. bill
> BTW stay away from AC/DC direct drive if possible, too noisy and other issues.


I'd agree with Bill; the motor must be the issue. With a direct drive, whenever you've got a trouble with a blade stalled, a motor is immediately affected. Can you try to run the motor with the blade off? any smell?


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