# Window casing help..



## jrichards

I am trimming out my windows in my basement but I am having trouble trying to come up with the correct look for the type of windows I have.

This is what my windows look like and I plan on doing a craftsman style trim with a header over each window.









Now my question is with the sill being so deep I don't know if adding an overhang is possible.

This is the header style I plan on doing over each window but I am not sure what I should do for the casing...










Should I use 1"x4" with 45ºs around the window with no sill? I am just not sure what would look right because all the deep windows I see just have regular casing around them and I want to add some detail with the headers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## cabinetman

*WELCOME TO THE FORUM*

As short as the windows are, I might pick a casing that would give an illusion of height, maybe something like this. As for a sill, I would use a comparable detail as the header similar to this. The sill should represent close to the same width as the header. You could add a detail under the sill in a moderate profile. 

The images posted here are not my images, but just used as an example. Door casings and base moulding if used should be representative of the window trim.


----------



## jrichards

Thanks for the welcome and ideas!!


----------



## craftsman jay

Typically, when I do arts and crafts with a pediment, I usually will just miter the bottom corners. Keeping a flat appearance all around (no sill or apron). This keeps the focus on the detail work of the pediment.


----------



## jrichards

That was my original intention but I wasn't sure if that was the "correct" look or if there was another standard for that style. I appreciate the feedback!! :thumbsup:


----------



## jrichards

Do they make base moulding without the grooved back? What trim do you use for the header caps? I was looking at all of the base at HD and all of it was grooved out on the backside...


----------



## mdntrdr

Why do you need base without the relieved back?

Are you using it for an apron?

If so, you can retun the ends with 45 deg. miters.


----------



## jrichards

I am using the base (upside down) as a cap on the headers above my windows.

Something like this...


----------



## mdntrdr

Are you talking about on top of the crown moulding?


----------



## jrichards

Yes, from what I can tell its base upside down, is there something else I can use.


----------



## mdntrdr

The base would work fine as long as its wide enough to reach the wall.

when you miter the ends to return to the wall, that will hide the relief.

Or you could just use a 3/4" board with a routed profile for the cap.


----------



## sanchez

The trim in those first few pictures looks exactly like the trim in my old house that was built in 1930. I loved the woodwork in that house. My 2008 new construction has nowhere near as nice woodwork.


----------



## jrichards

Well I worked on the windows over this past weekend. I went ahead and just used 1x4's for the casing and the caps on the crown. I still need to caulk, prime, and paint but I have to finish the rest of the trim.

What do you think?


----------



## claymation

jrichards said:


> What do you think?


Here's my quick 2 cents:
Move the crown up to increase the reveal on the header to more closely approximate the dimensions on the sides. Crown is too big/"heavy" on those short windows; I think it calls for a narrower crown. the sill too wide; makes the windows seem even shorter. Shorten the ears on the sill and put a round over on it. Remove and rescribe the sides where the gap is at the top; I don't think they make enough caulk to fill that gap! ;-) I don't do a lot of trim, but these are the things that caught my eye. Keep up the good work.


----------



## BWSmith

Basically agree with claymation.

This window is a tuffy.........You really need to weigh heavily on making it appear taller.Keeping Horz. "lines" (and unbroken crown is really just a bunch of lines)to a min.Not suggesting this for your windows but flutes/reads on the verts inhance this tallness for example.The wider reveal under crown will really help.And I would cheat the width on sides as much as I could stand it.This narrowing will bring those 2 vert "lines" closer together and also shorten the overall package.And would even consider a "sectioned" chamfer on the verts(sectioned as to not extend full length,stop short of sill/header),so as to add some vert lines and fool the eye somewhat.BW


----------



## MGB

If you want an honest opinion I think your too heavy on your header. Plus on the sill I would cut the horns back to 3/4"-1"


This is what I typically use for built up headers.











Comes in a variety of sizes, from 1 1/4" to 2 1/4"

I think you had the right idea in your original post


----------

