# Hangs a little to the left. Thoughts?



## Gonzalex (May 27, 2015)

Hey folks, long time reader first time poster. I've taken on a new project at home. I was able to pick up a bunch of free 5x5 softwood timbers from work and decided to make a new dining room table. My wife found a design online that I went with. I am using the timbers for the base and purchased walnut lumber for the top.
The base is mortise and tenon fit and am currently working on the top (not sure how I want to attach it yet). The walnut I purchased is s4s 4/4 and s2s 6/4. I am using the 4/4 for the inner runs of the table top and 6/4 for the outer runs and breadboards to give the illusion of a 6/4 all the way through. 
Problem I have run into is that the one of the 6/4 pieces has about a 1/4" bow in the middle (using a straight edge from end to end). I can plane it down, but then loose the thickness I wanted. I thought about adding a skirt to help true it up, but the walnut is simply too thick and wont remove the bow.
Any thoughts? Im no professional btw. 

Thanks, 
-Alex


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

There isn't much you can do with the warped 6/4. If one edge of the 4/4 part of the table or the other is warped you might glue it the opposite direction so one warp cancels the other. If you have the time you might set the board up with a block under each end and put a heavy weight in the middle for a few days. Most of the time the warp comes back though. 

What ever you do when mounting the top be sure to allow for wood movement. The top will expand and contract so elongate the mounting holes for the top so it can shrink when it needs to. Otherwise it will split.


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## Gonzalex (May 27, 2015)

Yeah have done plenty of research into mounting the top. Breadboards will be pinned with elongated holes in the tongues. Was trying to figure a fairly simple way of attaching the base to the top without screws, but seems that there is no simple way. Will probably use lag bolt through an elongates hole in an upper trestle kind of way. 

Steve I tried clamping the 6/4 to the 4/4 but with little positive results. The 6/4 is simply to much that it just bows the 4/4. Im sure over time it might even out a little, but not positive.


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## woodnthings (Jan 24, 2009)

*How wide is it?*

If the width doesn't exceed the full height of your table saw blade (X2) you can saw/resaw it along the edge and flip one piece over and glue it back together.

This should take the curve out of it. A bandsaw would be better since the blade is thinner. 

I'm not certain from the photo if the curve is in the edge or in the surface. a curved edge is easier to straighten than a curved surface... that's the issue I am suggesting above.


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## Gonzalex (May 27, 2015)

woodnthings said:


> If the width doesn't exceed the full height of your table saw blade (X2) you can saw/resaw it along the edge and flip one piece over and glue it back together.


That makes sense, but I would still have to plane it back down a little from whichever way I cut it. Being that im not that great and trying to resaw a curved 6 ft' board standing upright in the bandsaw, I'm likely to screw it up. Also i cant justify cutting it up after I spent what I think was a fortune on it lol.


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## was2ndlast (Apr 11, 2014)

Gonzalex said:


> Yeah have done plenty of research into mounting the top. Breadboards will be pinned with elongated holes in the tongues. Was trying to figure a fairly simple way of attaching the base to the top without screws, but seems that there is no simple way. Will probably use lag bolt through an elongates hole in an upper trestle kind of way.
> 
> Steve I tried clamping the 6/4 to the 4/4 but with little positive results. The 6/4 is simply to much that it just bows the 4/4. Im sure over time it might even out a little, but not positive.


They sell clips specifically for attaching table tops. You just cut a groove on the inside of the base.


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