# boiling wooden gear teeth in raw linseed oil



## woodwoik (Jul 3, 2009)

I have been told that wooden gear teeth should be boiled in raw linseed oil for protection and lubrication. I haven't been able to find any specifics on the process of boiling the teeth. How long do the teeth need to be boiled. Is the oil boiling or is it heated to a particular temperature? Is there a safety factor regarding boiling raw linseed oil.

Any help would be appreciated.:yes:


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## GeorgeC (Jul 30, 2008)

"Wooden geat teath?" What kind of wooden gear teeth?

G


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## Just Bill (Dec 29, 2008)

I hope you find an answer. My father left me an Eli Terry mantle clock with wood works, circa 1793. Still works fine but peridocally needs new parts.


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## Julian the woodnut (Nov 5, 2008)

From what I can ascertain about boiled linseed oil, it's not boiled at all. It has metallic dryers added to it to make it dry faster. I would assume that you could just soak the piece in raw linseed oil for a few days, just like what was done to the old solid wooden planes. This will surely fill the wood with oil.


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## woodwoik (Jul 3, 2009)

GeorgeC said:


> "Wooden geat teath?" What kind of wooden gear teeth?
> 
> G


These are big hard maple gear teeth on a spur and pinion gear for a grist mill. Total body of tooth is approximately 6 inches long and 4 inches high and two inches thick.


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## Wood4Fun (Aug 29, 2008)

yeah, I think Julian is on track here... I suspect there is a breakdown in terms being used. Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is not really boiled and there is no boiling involved in the application of said oil

I certainly wouldn't consider boiling BLO. I'm not a chemist and I would be concerned about "stuff" getting released during the boil (the additives Julian mentioned)... not to mention the rather high temp it takes to boil oil, you could end up with a real problem if you were to put wood into something that hot.
I'd take the same precaution with normal linseed oil as well

Check your sources and make sure "boiling in linseed oil" doesn't actually mean "using Boiled Linseed Oil"

Once you've verified - and I assume it is use BLO, make sure you let everything cure for a good long time (up to a week) before you re assemble your clock. .... errr... mill


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## cabinetman (Jul 5, 2007)

Boiled linseed oil dries faster than raw linseed oil. Heating either will change their drying abilities. Applying either in other than thin coats may hinder their drying, and they may not dry or stay very sticky for a long time. 

You could thin BLO with turpentine, mineral spirits, or naptha to speed up the dry time. For some applications as in oil base paints, an extended dry time can be beneficial as to flow out and workability. A drawback to BLO, or raw linseed oil is that it will attract mold.

For finishes that are to be used, as in gun stocks for example, each application must be cured before another added.


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## Rick Mosher (Feb 26, 2009)

I have heated linseed oil before application although I wouldn't get it boiling. This can be a very dangerous operation because you are taking an already flammable material closer to its flash point. The reason I heat it is strictly for reasons of viscosity. The warmer the coating the thinner it gets and the deeper the penetration.


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## AZ Termite (Dec 20, 2008)

You can put BLO in a crock pot to heat. My uncle makes pottery tools. He heats the oil and soaks the tools in it for 24 hours. It penetrates to wood further, and being in the crock pot you have almost no worry of it catching fire.


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