# Dap wood filler thinner



## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

I have a couple of cans of Dap wood filler that are drying out. The can says to use Dap wood filler thinner to reconstitute it. This doesn't appear to be readily available in the local areas (70 mile radius) that I can easily access. 

My question is: If you use Dap & you thin it, what do you thin it with? Any special concerns when thinning or using?

Thanks for your help. 


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

Directly from DAP's website:

"Volatile: Acetone, Isopropanol and n-Butyl Acetate"

Those are the solvents used to keep the putty soft and usable. Acetone is, probably, the main ingredient. So, fingernail polish remover should thin the mixture.


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

Thanks Mike. It didn't occur to me to consult Dap for something that might compete with their thinner! I have plenty of acetone. I'll try it. 


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## Steve Neul (Sep 2, 2011)

With some putties if you improvise a solvent it ruins the adhesive properties of the putty. I normally use Famowood putty and if you use acetone or lacquer thinner to thin it by the time you get to the bottom of the can it works terrible. Using their solvent the putty works fine.


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## Toolman50 (Mar 22, 2015)

Filler is sold two ways now. In the can or in the squeeze tube. 
You can mix a filler with canned filler but of course not with the tube filler. 
For whatever the reason, it seems to me the tube filler last longer and works best for me. 
Maybe it's because when I remove the top on the can I expose it to the air and it drys out really fast. 
I've been buying the tube filler. If you try it, you find it works well for you too.


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## TimPa (Jan 27, 2010)

alcohol and acetone. it tends to darken the tone after a few thins tho.


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

Thanks Toolman. Not a fan of the tube, though. I nearly always have to mix. I also learned that it dries out. 

Tim, thanks for that info. I'll watch out for that. 


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## tvman44 (Dec 8, 2011)

I use Acetone.


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## m.n.j.chell (May 12, 2016)

If it "dries" like paint ... maybe you can stop the effect, like paint. 
Use argon (if you're a welder) or "Bloxygen" to keep air out of the can when not in use.


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

I use Plastic Wood and thin it with acetone. I thin the new can as soon as I open it and stir it up real well. It will then settle into the can. When I open it I don't just dip down into it and pull some out I use a swirl motion just skimming the surface. Gouging it lets more air get to it and dries it out faster. I use a bunch all day long. A can usually lasts me a week. 

Sometimes I have to re thin it before I get to the bottom. But it takes stain well and it dries in a half hour in front of the fan.


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## Catpower (Jan 11, 2016)

I've used acetone for years with no problems, but I have started using Timbermate, it is a water based filler from Australia, and so far it is one of the best fillers I have ever used, no shelf life if it dries out get it wet to the consistency you want and it is like a new bottle. You can also thin it and use it for a grain filler


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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

Thanks all for the additional info. I can't imagine using a can per week! But then, I'm a hobbyist that only does what I want, when I want. Hence the desire to reconstitute the filler. 
I've heard good things about Timbermate, and may try it at some point. Trouble is, I'd have to order it, whereas the Dap is available locally (only a 52 mile round trip). 


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

I make about 4 to 6 tables a day from construction grade whitewood. Customers like them smooth. I used to use the Elmer's water based but it took too long to dry.


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## swiftyfrommi (Oct 13, 2009)

Something I learned from the ceramic installer I used to work for was smooth out the top of the putty in the can before you close it. Then it will be less likely to dry up. We always did this with our premixed adhesives. 

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## WesTex (Jan 5, 2014)

Mike, I can see now how you can go through a lot of filler. I have the luxury of moving at my own speed through projects of my choosing, so I actually use very little filler. I use power tools primarily to prep the wood for joinery, then use hand tools to join. I'm not a big fan of paint so I take care to minimize that which must be filled. My small cans of filler will last for ages if I can keep them from drying out. 
Swifty, the Dap cans are supposed to be stored lid down, so after closing them I tap them several times on a hard surface to try to drive the filler against the lid. If the filler is still pliable it accomplishes what smoothing would. 


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## VIFmike (Jul 21, 2012)

swiftyfrommi said:


> Something I learned from the ceramic installer I used to work for was smooth out the top of the putty in the can before you close it. Then it will be less likely to dry up. We always did this with our premixed adhesives.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


That's what I have been trying to get my guys to understand. That's why I don't have to thin my can out twice like they do. They gouge down in there and grab some here and there. I smoothly peel a layer off the top. Lasts longer and it does not get wasted.


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